Travel Companion Argentina (Travel Companion Guide)

TRAVEL COMPANION

ARGENTINA SECOND EDITION

Gerry Leitner was born in Vienna, Austria, in 1935 and became fluent in English, French, and Spanish during his travels throughout Western Europe and North Africa. In 1958 he migrated to Australia, where he first worked in the outback before settling in Sydney in 1965. Gerry became fascinated by South America during his first trip there in 1976, and has returned numerous times since.

Bücher sind Deine besten Freunde, Du kannst sie für lange Zeit vernachlässigen, aber sie sind immer da wenn Du sie brauchst. Johanna Leitner, geb. Richtsfeld 1907–

TRAVEL COMPANION

ARGENTINA SECOND EDITION

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GERRY LEITNER

© 2000 Gerry Leitner

Second Edition published in 2000 by Companion Travel Guide Books, 19 Kilmorey Street, Busby N.S.W. 2168, Australia; e-mail: [email protected] ISBN 09587498-1-7 The information in this book is as up-to-date as possible, but no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by the user of this book is accepted by the author or publisher. This book is copyright. Apart from any fair dealing for the purpose of research or study, criticism, or review, no part may be reproduced by any process without written permission of Companion Travel Guide Books. Edited by Michael Wyatt, Keyword Editorial Services, 22 Kendall Street, Surry Hills, N.S.W. 2010, Australia Color maps drawn by Graham Keane, Cartodraft, 2 Barina Downs Road, Bella Vista, N.S.W. 2153 City and town maps drawn by Gerry Leitner, 19 Kilmorey Street, Busby N.S.W. 2168 Australia Cover design by Kathleen Phelps Printed by Colorcraft Limited, Kodak House phase II unit 8-9, 16th floor, 321 Java road, North Point, Hong Kong Published in USA, Canada, Mexico, the Carribean,and Central America: Hunter Publishing Inc, 239 South Beach Road, Hobe Sound Fl 33455, USA Fax 1-561-5468040 Tel 1-561-5467986; e-mail: [email protected] Color prints: Cover by Gerry Leitner, insert on front cover by kind permission of Presidencia de la Nación, Secretaría de Turismo Apart from any fair dealing for the purposes of research or private study, or criticism or review, as permitted under the relevant copyright, designs and patents acts, this publication may only be reproduced, stored or transmitted, in any form or by any means, with the prior permission in writing of the publisher. eBooks Corporation

CONTENTS ARGENTINA

INTRODUCTION 9 10 11 28

List of color maps List of symbols Introduction How to use the Travel Companion

THE REGIONS Capital Federal 38 Bueno Aires City

Pampa Provinces 106 244 341 361

Buenos Aires Córdoba La Pampa Santa Fe

Patagonia 390 444 496 544 585

Neuquén Río Negro Chubut Santa Cruz Tierra del Fuego

Cuyo Provinces 602 631 677 698

San Luis Mendoza San Juan La Rioja

North-Western Provinces 724 756 781 815

Catamarca Tucumán Salta Jujuy

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ARGENTINA Chaco Provinces 844 Santiago del Estero 867 Chaco 886 Formosa

Mesopotamia 898 Corrientes 933 Entre Ríos 985 Misiones 1028 Useful Web sites and e-mail addresses 1030 Glossary 1034 Index

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t is not an overstatement to say that compiling of this travel guide book was a mammoth task. Without the help, assistance, knowledge, and wisdom of others, this book would have never been completed. It is therefore fitting to pay tribute and mention those organizations and persons who have made this publication possible.

I

In Argentina

First of all I wish to thank Lic. Alicia M. García Tuñen, Jefe Departamento Sindit, of the Secretaría de Turismo, Presidencia de la Nación for the immense amount of data her department has made available to me.

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Provincial tourist offices •

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• • • •

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Capital Federal de Buenos Aires: Sr. Alejandro N. Jorge, Director General de Turismo, Gobierno de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires Provincia de Buenos Aires: Arq. María Cristina Pittatore, Jefe Interno, Dirección de Turismo Provincia de Buenos Aires Provincia de Catamarca: Dirección de Turismo, Subsecretaría de Turismo Catamarca Provincia de Córdoba: ° Arq. Oscar Fernando Menardi, Jefe Dpto. Información Turística, Secretaría de Turismo ° Ing. Günter Meininghaus, Villa General Belgrano Provincia de La Pampa: Sra. Carmen P. de Isequilla, Directora Prov. de Turismo, La Pampa Provincia de La Rioja: Sr. G. Gregori of the Oficina se Turismo Chilecito Provincia de Río Negro: Sr. Hector Sabato, Director General de Turismo, Provincia de Río Negro Provincia del Neuquén: Lic. Marisa Delia Castro de Creado, Directora Gral. de Desarrollo Turístico,

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• •

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Dirección Provincial de Turismo and Tec. Tur. Elma Cervera de Rondina Provincia del Chubut: ° 1. Sr. Andres L. Stewart-Harris of Transportes Don Otto ° 2. Arq. Gustavo Wofcydiez, Secretaría de Turismo y Recreación, Municipalidad de Puerto Madryn Provincia de Santa Cruz: Lic. Valeria F. Pellizza, Dirección de Atractivos Turísticos y Banco de Datos, Subsecretaría de Turismo Provincia de Tierra del Fuego: ° 1. Sr. Julio César Lovece, Director Municipal de Turismo. ° 2. Sr. Daniel Leguizamón Instituto Fueguino de Turismo ° 3. Captur, Cámara de Agentes y Prestadores de Servicios Turísticos Norte de Tierra del Fuego Provincia de San Luis: Arq. Jorge Daniel Rosenfeld, Director Provincial de Desarollo Turístico Provincia de Mendoza: ° 1. Lic. María Lila Raimondo, Andesmar ° 2. Sr. Juan Carlos Vinassa, Subdirector de Coordinación Subsecretaría de Turismo ° 3. Sr. Alfredo A. Del Giusti, Camara de Turismo Mendoza Provincia de Jujuy: Sra. María Cristina Calimani, Sec. Admin. Dirección Provincial de Turismo Provincia de Salta: Secretaría de la Gobernación de Turismo

ARGENTINA • •

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Miss Kathleen Phelps has designed a wonderful cover to wrap the text into a saleable book. My family also assisted in various ways: Tony Grey, my son-in-law took an active part in its development, Mrs. Anne Rumley read some of the chapters. My wife Karla has patiently awaited the completion of this book and deserves my thanks for her patience. Special thanks to Mr. Hubert Mühlböck, a fellow Austrian from Carinthia. He was virtually available on a 24-hour basis to assist in sorting out problems with new computer technology and programs. By his constant “prodding” he was a prime mover in bringing this project to completion; he is the “godfather” of this book.

Provincia del Chaco: Sra. Olga I.R. Marcico de Picchio, Directora de Turismo Provinca del Chaco Provincia de Misiones: Lic. Luis Alberto Spasiuk, Jefe Subsecretaría de Turismo, Gobernación and Sr. Ernesto Beling, Informes Turístico Provincia de Entrerios: Sr. Horacio A. Colacello, Servicios Turísticos, Subsecretaría de Turismo Entre Ríos

In Australia

On the home front I wish to thank my editor, Mr. Michael Wyatt who converted my ugly duckling into a readable book. On return from his trip to Argentina he also brought back valuable information.

Please write to us: Companion Travel Guide Books 19 Kilmorey Street Busby NSW 2168 Australia Telephone and fax: +61 2 9608 1169 E-mail: [email protected] Web site: http://www.companiontravel.com.au

viii

SYMBOLS A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T # U V W X Y Z

a b c d ^ e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v @ & 1 2

Festivals Tourist information Accommodation Camping Eating out Cafeterias Bars Parking Post and telegraph Post office Telephone Banks Facilities & services Clubs Churches Passports & consulates Border crossing Air services Buses Trains Water transport, Ferries Motoring and service Car rentals Service stations Tours Shopping Wineries

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Sport Hiking Skiing Caving Mountaineering Fishing Beaches, water sports Sailing Swimming Golf Tennis Bowling green Horseriding Sauna Entertainment; Nightlife Casino Sightseeing Museums Colonial and historic buildings Excursions Archeology Thermal springs Wildlife Telephone number Recommended Single room Double room

Buenos Aires seemed a city of French architecture, full of Italians who spoke Spanish and thought they were English. From “Sweat of the Sun, Tears of the Moon”, by Jack Pizzey, published by the Australian Broadcasting Corporation IANTRODUCTION RGENTINA

T

here is much, much more to Argentina than the urbane sophistication of Buenos Aires, the eighth largest city in the western world. Argentina includes a rich and varied culture, and a wealth of natural beauty which overseas visitors are only now beginning to appreciate.

For visitors to Buenos Aires with little time at their disposal, a trip further afield to the Cataratas del Iguazú (known in English as the Iguazú Falls), or the Perito Moreno glacier (depending on the season), is a must. For those tourists with more time, a visit to the north-western provinces of Salta, Jujuy, Catamarca, and Tucumán is highly recommended. For skiers, the Mendoza, Neuquén, and Río Negro provinces contain many snow resorts of world standard such as Las Leñas, Bariloche, and Cerro Chapelco. Nature lovers will find that Argentina has some of the best National Parks in South America. Hikers will find many interesting trails in the lake districts around Bariloche, the Fitzroy massif in Santa Cruz Province, or around

mighty Cerro Aconcagua in Mendoza. Visits to the provincial parks of Talampaya in La Rioja and Igualasto in San Juan and the newly created Parque Nacional Las Quijadas in San Luis Province are very worthwhile. The old mission churches of the north-west in Salta and Jujuy Provinces in particular, are also attracting growing numbers of tourists. The Jesuit remains of Misiones (such as San Ignacio Miní near Posadas) are particularly awe-inspiring, and others have still to be reclaimed from the dense undergrowth of the subtropical rain forests along the Brazilian border. Argentina is worth at least one visit …

The country and its people Modern Argentina is the child of Spain and Italy. Almost one third of

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ARGENTINA all Argentines claim Italian descent. This Latin influence has found its way into every aspect of the country’s lifestyle, including the cuisine. Only 15% of the present population is of Indian stock, and this is mostly scattered through Salta, Jujuy, Misiones, and Corrientes. Small pockets of Chaco Indians are still found in Formosa and Chaco. Argentina has a good tourist infrastructure of roads, hotels, and bus services. And in contrast to other South American countries it is fairly safe for travelers. Some parts of Argentina such as Catamarca, La Rioja, San Juan, and Jujuy are almost unknown to overseas tourists. Argentina covers 2 777 000 square km (1 068 300 square miles) — about one-third the size of the United States — and is thus the second largest country in South America, after Brazil. Situated in the south-east of the continent, Argentina shares its western border — the Andes — with Chile, and its northern borders with Bolivia and Paraguay, while Brazil and Uruguay are situated to the north-east with the border formed by the Río Uruguay. The eastern side, from the Río de la Plata to Tierra del Fuego in the south, fronts the Atlantic Ocean. In 1999, the population of 36 000 000 was concentrated in the larger urban centers. Buenos Aires proper, which contains some 4 000 000 inhabitants (and greater Buenos Aires 8 000 000), is the largest city. The next largest cities are Córdoba and Rosario (each with 1 000 000), Mendoza (620 000), La Plata (580 000), and Tucumán (500 000). Argentina includes a very wide range of climatic zones, from the

tropical to the antarctic. To the far north there are tropical regions in the provinces of Jujuy and Salta, while Misiones, Chaco, and Formosa are subtropical. The provinces between Córdoba and the Río Negro are temperate, and Tierra del Fuego is subantarctic. The snowy peaks of the Andes extend from the tropics to the antarctic, creating their own series of micro-climates. Argentina includes the highest mountain in South America (Cerro Aconcagua at 6960 m), and this means that you can find cool regions in even the most northerly provinces of Argentina up next to the Bolivian border. Further south glaciers are a striking natural feature of Santa Cruz Province and Tierra del Fuego. Spanish is the official language, but English, German, and Italian are widely spoken or understood. Argentine Spanish has been strongly influenced by Italian. Other languages preserved by ethnic communities include German, English, and Welsh (in some parts of Chubut). The Inca language Quechua is still spoken in some parts of Jujuy, Salta, Catamarca, Tucumán, and Santiago del Estero. The Guaraní language is still widely used in Misiones and Corrientes and taught at university level. Major rivers of Argentina include the Río de la Plata, with its two large tributaries the Río Uruguay and Río Paraná, and the Río Negro which is used extensively for irrigation throughout its course. The Río Paraná is navigable by large ships for most of the year as far as Corrientes. North of Corrientes it meets the Río Paraguay which is navigable for part of the year up to

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INTRODUCTION downfall of the Generals; Argentina is not a high inflation country any longer; indeed its currency, the Argentine peso, pegged to the American dollar, is one of the stablest currencies in South America. Financial and economic reform such as privatizing, and closing down loss-making or badly managed state enterprises were pursued concurrently. These measures were painful and unpopular at first. The unemployment rate is still above 10%, but with a center-left government in power it may well be assumed that this will improve. It appears the new government will continue its hard currency policy, even if the unemployment situation does not improve. Prices quoted throughout this guide are in US$ equivalents. In the wake of economic reforms money has returned to Argentina which has been used to modernize the bus companies which also went through a restructuring process. But above all money was invested to upgrade and build new hotels, especially in the luxury class. Provincial governments spent money on road infrastructure and upgrading of airports. The mineral wealth of the Andes provinces is being tapped, with new copper mine developments in Catamarca and Tucumán Provinces. Close co-operation between Argentine provinces along the border and their counterparts in Chile has created new opportunities for the tourist trade. This is particularly visible in Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. The same can be said for the rest of the border region, where many passes previously closed have been

Asunción and Puerto Suárez in Bolivia. The Yacyretá hydroelectric scheme being built on the Alto Río Paraná will create a 1600 square kilometer lake extending back to Posadas in Misiones Province and will make the Río Paraná navigable as far as Posadas in Misiones Province. Perhaps Argentina’s bestknown natural feature is the pampas. These are the large, flat grasslands extending east to west from the Atlantic Ocean almost to the Andes, and from Córdoba/Santa Fe in the north to the Río Negro. This region includes large haciendas and towns steeped in the gaucho tradition, reminiscent of the cowboys of North America. Gauchos have mixed Spanish and Indian ancestry, and are noted for their free, gipsy–cowboy lifestyle. Argentines still cling to the romantic notion that the gaucho typifies the true Argentine lifestyle. Cattle were initially brought to Argentina when Spaniards first attempted to found Buenos Aires in 1536. When the Spanish retreated back to either Asunción or Spain, the cattle they left behind proliferated in the lush pampas and grew into large herds. Cattle and wheat from the pampas were the basis of Argentina’s wealth until the early 1950s. Argentina’s population is 85% Caucasian and 15% Indian or mixed mestizo. The largest source of European migrants has been Italy, with nearly a third of all Argentines claiming to be of Italian descent. Next come migrants of Spanish, German, and French origin.

Economic conditions The economic conditions in Argentina have improved vastly since the 13

ARGENTINA reopened or new pass roads constructed.

Traces of Inca occupation are still found along the Capac Ñan or Royal Road of the Incas, which descends from southern Bolivia, traverses the province of Jujuy, and continues south along the altiplano through Salta, Catamarca, Tucumán, San Juan, and Mendoza. As a result, pockets of Quechua-speaking Indians are still found in the mountainous areas of northern Argentina.

History of Argentina Pre-Columbian (to 1492) Traces of early settlement in Argentina can be found going back some 10 000 years. Rock paintings in Patagonia and other parts of the republic bear witness to the artistry of the indigenous peoples, who were hunters and gatherers without fixed settlements. The first beginnings of permanent human settlements are found in the chaco region, and indicate that a lively interchange of ideas and goods took place between the mountain tribes to the west and the local Indians. Cultural centers did develop in Catamarca and Tucumán, and many archeological sites show that the Indians built complex agricultural communities. South American copper- and bronze-age metallurgy may well have begun in north-western Argentina. However, the relative cultural development of the Argentine tribes still varied greatly in the 17th century, and depended largely on a southward diffusion of ideas and techniques from the Tiahuanacan Empire of Bolivia and the Incan Empire of Peru. It should be remembered that hunter-gatherers were still being systematically exterminated by European settlers in Tierra del Fuego around the turn of the 19th century. From around 1450 A.D. the Peruvian Incas gradually moved southward, subduing those mountain tribes they encountered, but never gaining full control of the region.

European discovery and conquest The Spanish first set foot on Argentine soil in 1536 when Pedro de Mendoza arrived with a massive force of 1600 men and 14 ships to found the city of Buenos Aires on the banks of the Río de la Plata. After incessant attacks from the local Indians the settlement was abandoned. Most settlers sailed back to Spain, but some marched north and founded the city of Asunción, now the capital of Paraguay. Argentina’s first permanent European cities were founded from the north by Spaniards coming down from Alto Perú (Tucumán 1565) and from Chile (Mendoza 1561). Buenos Aires was refounded from Asunción in 1580 by Juan de Garay. On his way down the Río Paraná he also founded Santa Fe, now Santa Fe La Vieja (Old Santa Fe). Until the 18th century Argentina remained little more than a backwater of the Spanish colonial empire. All trading goods had to be imported and exported through Lima. In 1776, the Bourbon Kings created the Virreinato de La Plata, which drew the dividing line between Chile and Argentina at the crest of the main chain of the Andes. 14

INTRODUCTION Thus, the Cuyo provinces of Mendoza, San Luis, San Juan and La Rioja were separated from Chile and came under the jurisdiction of the Viceroy of La Plata. Buenos Aires was made the capital of this new Vice-Royalty and allowed to develop into a major commercial and administrative center, covering Paraguay, Uruguay, and parts of what is now southern Brazil. During the Napoleonic wars in Europe, Spain’s American colonies became independent for a brief period when they refused to recognize Napoleon’s brother as the new King of Spain. The colonies had become more Spanish than Spain itself, and when the Bourbons were returned to the Spanish throne after Napoleon’s defeat, a constitutional conference was held in Cádiz. This conference gave increased home rule to the American colonies, but once Ferdinand was safely installed as King of Spain he unilaterally rescinded this constitutional reform. The American colonies openly rebelled against Spain. They were helped by the British, Dutch, and French, who hoped to gain territories of their own in South America. Argentina officially broke away from Spain on May 25, 1810, when a popularly backed military junta took over from the Spanish viceroy. To this day May 25 is commemorated all over Argentina as Independence Day. It took 16 more years to completely shake off Spanish rule. Some of the bloodiest battles were fought in north-western Argentina in Jujuy near Tilcara, where royalist troops from Bolivia tried repeatedly to defeat the local independence armies.

The war produced such nationalist generals and heroes as Güemes, Peñalosa (who became known as “El Chacho”), and General Manuel Belgrano (who designed the Argentine flag), and international military leaders such as General San Martín and Simón Bolívar in Venezuela. San Martín later crossed the Andes into Chile with 16 000 men to defeat royalist troops at the Battle of Maipú. He also sailed with his troops to Peru, where he defeated a royalist army outside Ayacucho. A magnificent memorial has been erected on this battlefield, listing the names of the opposing generals and their high-ranking officers. After independence there was little real social change at first. Criollos, Spanish settlers born in Argentina, replaced civil servants from Spain, but life changed little for the indigenous peoples who had helped overthrow the Spanish. Without the disciplined Spanish bureaucracy, the newly independent states of South America fell into anarchy. The only centralized authority remained with the Army, and a series of army generals took control of Argentina as dictators. This period became known as the time of the caudillos or strong leaders, and established the tradition whereby the Argentine army believes it can intercede in national politics any time it perceives there is some internal or external security threat. One of the first caudillos was the infamous dictator Manuel de Rosas, who gained control of Buenos Aires Province in 1830 and ruled until 1851. Rosas was deposed by J.J. de Urquiza, the leading cattle baron of Entre Rios and a former army general under Rosas. (It is said that

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ARGENTINA Urquiza fathered over a hundred children and in some towns in Entre Rios the predominant name of most of the population is “Urquiza”!) The pampas Indians were conquered during the Desert Campaign (Campaña del Desierto) of 1880. This campaign preceded the large-scale settlement of “pacified” areas by European migrants, in a process identical to the bloody demise of the north American plains Indian, but less well known. By the late 19th century, the Argentine army’s wars against the Puelche Indians of the Pampas and Patagonia had removed all resistance and opened these areas to a flood of migrants from Italy, Germany, Switzerland, and France. This period saw a great expansion of Argentina’s agricultural economy. Argentina depended on the export of meat, wool, and hides (particularly to England) until after World War I and imported most of its manufactured goods. During World War II Argentina began to develop manufacturing industries. In 1943 army officers staged a coup which was intended to break foreign domination of Argentina’s emergent industries. This eventually brought J.D. Perón and his charismatic first wife Evita to power. Until his death in 1974, Perón dominated Argentine politics, even during a period of exile in Spain. After Perón’s death, Argentina plunged back into anarchy as the right-wing military took power and began waging an internal struggle against many left-wing-oriented leaders. This so-called “Dirty War” only ended when General Gualtieri resigned after waging an unsuccessful war against Britain for control of

the Falklands Islands (known in Argentina as the Malvinas). Raul Alfonsín became the first civilian president and tried to stop Argentina’s economic decline by instituting monetary reform. However his efforts were frustrated by powerful groups within the army and wealthier classes. In 1989 another free election brought to power Carlos Menem, the leader of the revamped former Peronista party. He dismantled many of the loss-making state monopolies and privatized many state enterprises and succeeded in stabilizing the economy, making the Argentine peso one of the strongest currencies in South America. He also normalized relations with Great Britain without abandoning its claim to the Falkland Islands or Malvinas. In 1999 in another election a center-left government took over, under the leadership of President De La Rúa. Jesuit missions During the 17th century, a network of Jesuit missions was set up throughout southern Brazil, Paraguay, and the northern Argentine provinces of Corrientes and Misiones. The beginning of the Jesuit mission was an accord between Don Hernando Arias de Saavedra, Governor of the then province of Paraguay, and Monsignor Reginaldo de Lizarraga, then Bishop of Paraguay. The original purpose of the missions was to convert the Guaraní Indians to Christianity, to help the natives to attain a better way of life, and at the same time to counter the infamous encomienda system whereby all Indians within a conquered territory became the serfs of their Spanish landholders. 16

INTRODUCTION The King of Spain accorded his Royal Consent in 1608 to this great social and civilizing experiment. Selected to carry out this social experiment was the Compañía de Jesús (founded by Ignacio de Loyola — see box below). In 1609 the first Jesuits, Padre Marcial Lorenzana and Francisco de San Martín arrived in Paraná, in the Guaraní homeland. In 1610 Padre Vicente Cataldino and Padre Simón Masseta went to the Río Guayra area — now in Brazil — inhabited by the Tapes people. Soon the first mission settlements were built, in what became known as the “Misiones” region. The indigenous population readily accepted the Jesuits and their work. However these missions were continually harassed by Portuguese paulistas (also called mamelucos) who captured the Indians to work as slaves in the Brazilian plantations (fazendas) to the north. Between 1627 and 1631 nine mission settlements were destroyed and some 60 000 Indians enslaved or killed. The 11 000 remaining Guaraní under the leadership of Padre Antonio Ruiz de Montoya abandoned their homelands in one great exodus to seek safety down-river. They trekked from central Brazil through the dense and difficult forest of the Río Paraná to found new settlements in southern Brazil and

Paraguay, and Argentina. About 4000 Indians survived the trek. The main missions founded were Santa María La Mayor in Brazil; Corpus Christi, San Ignacio Miní, Loreto II, Itapua, and Yapeyú in Argentina; and Natividad, Tebicuary, and San Ignacio Guazu in Paraguay. The missions were self- governed under the guidance of Jesuit padres who encouraged those Guaraní traditions which did not conflict with their Christian teachings. The Guaraní were taught agricultural methods and became skilled blacksmiths, musicians, administrators, and artists. The Guaraní language was kept alive and encouraged. The Bible was translated into Guaraní and books such as a Guaraní–Spanish dictionary were written and printed in the missions. In 1700 Loreto II had printing presses built by the natives under the supervision of Jesuits in particular Jesuits of German origin. As Argentina’s first printed books, these are now valuable library items and historically important reference works. The success and prosperity of the mission settlements attracted the envy of nearby Spanish and Portuguese settlers. The paulista raids restarted and increased, so the non-violent Guaraní enlisted Spanish mercenaries to teach them how to use firearms. They successfully

San Ignacio de Loyola was born in Guipuzcoa, northern Spain in 1491 of a noble family. He spent some years at the royal court in Madrid and became a soldier. During the assault of Pamplona he was grievously wounded and spent some time recuperating in his parents’ castle. During this convalescence period he read a lot, and motivated by reading holy scripture he gained the impression that his life was a waste so far. When he was fit again he went to the Monastery in Monserrat and left his arms there. In Manresa he wrote the Jesuits’ guidance book (Librito de Ejercicios). At 30 years of age he began to study Latin in Barcelona. He found two more friends who shared his ideals and in 1538 he founded the Compañia de Jesús in Rome.

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ARGENTINA fought off all incursions after 1641, and in 1719 five hundred Guaraní laid siege to the then Portuguese town of Colonia del Sarmiento west of Montevideo. In 1767 King Charles III of Spain signed a decree expelling the Jesuits from all Spanish territories. He had been influenced by those who opposed the mission system because it restricted European exploitation of the region, and those who were alarmed at the military strength and independence of the Guaraní and Jesuits. The missions became part of the Spanish crown and soon disintegrated without the patronage of the Jesuits. Thus ended one of the most enlightened periods of South American colonization. Today, Guaraní survives as a written and spoken language in Paraguay, and in parts of Corrientes and Misiones. The mission of San Ignacio Miní, north of Posadas, has now been restored for tourists and no visit to Misiones province is complete without visiting this magnificent remnant of the great Jesuit experiment.

Today Guaraní is taught at Corrientes university, and Misiones contains isolated Guaraní communities. When General San Martín called on Argentines to free themselves from Spanish rule in 1810, the call to arms was also written and distributed in the Guaraní language — the General himself probably spoke a smattering of Guaraní as he grew up in an ex-Jesuit mission among the Guaraní. Isolated communities of Toba Indians exist in such northern provinces as Chaco, Formosa, and Salta. In San Francisco de Laishi (Formosa) the Franciscans have a Toba mission.

Administration and government Argentina is a republic consisting of 23 provinces and the Federal district of Buenos Aires. Buenos Aires is the capital and seat of government, headed by the President. Like most Western democracies, Argentina is essentially a twoparty country. In 1989 the Partido Justicionalista government led by Carlos Menem replaced the Unión Civica Radical (U.C.R.) party of Raul Alfonsín. The new party is the re-formed Perónist Movement. Menem himself came from a Muslim family in La Rioja province, and had changed religion, as the Argentine Constitution permits only Catholics to become president. He was a flamboyant leader, but left the country in good economic shape. In 1999 new elections brought a change of government; it is now a center-left aligned Governmant under the leadership of Sr. De La Rúa.

The Indians today Of the original Indian population, only three significant groups remain. The largest group is the Guaraní, found mostly in Corrientes and Misiones The descendants of the Diaguitas are found in the north-western altiplano regions of Salta, Jujuy and Catamarca and are closely related to the Indians living in Bolivia. They engage mostly in “subsistence”mining. Small groups of Pehuenches live in reservations in Neuquén Province.

Religion The Catholic Church is the dominant faith for some 95% of the 18

INTRODUCTION Argentina, but the Chaco region of which it is part is pleasant in winter. Northern Patagonia, including Bariloche and the provinces of Neuquén and Chubut, offer some of the best skiing conditions in the world. These areas have good tourist facilities and attract growing numbers of winter sport enthusiasts. However, tourist visits to southern Patagonian provinces to see the spectacular scenery of Santa Cruz and Tierra del Fuego are limited to the summer months. Even if you go on a skiing trip you can visit the northern subtropical parts of Argentina which are pleasantly warm. There is always a season for tourists somewhere in Argentina.

population, but religious freedom is enshrined in the Constitution. Significant pockets of Protestantism occur in the larger cities, especially Buenos Aires, and include Anglican and Lutheran, as well as some Greek Orthodox and Armenian Catholic churches. The Church of Latter Day Saints is very active, and you will find a Mormon temple in virtually every large town.

The climate The Argentine mainland stretches from the tropic of Capricorn in the north, to 55° latitude in the south. Therefore, while the northern lowlands of Salta Province are tropical, most of Argentina is temperate. In the Andes, temperatures are dictated by altitude rather than latitude. It can be bitterly cold in the cordillera, while cities like Salta and Jujuy at a much lower altitude a few kilometers away may be baking under a tropical sun. One effect of the climate is the siesta. This is a northern tradition, where the heat and Spanish influence are more noticeable. Further south in the pampas or Patagonia there is no such tradition. The siesta is described more fully in the introductions to provinces where it is observed. The winter months are June to August and are mild in Buenos Aires. The north-western provinces have a wet season from November to January which may restrict traveling in outlying parts of those provinces, whereas the central provinces of Buenos Aires, Santa Fe, Córdoba, and La Pampa may be very hot indeed. In summer Santiago del Estero registers the highest temperature in

Getting to and from Argentina Air travel As already mentioned, for most visitors the main point of entry to Argentina is Buenos Aires. Travel Companion Argentina concentrates on Argentina. It is therefore beyond the scope of this book to provide a list of travel agents or airline companies who offer the best travel deals in your home country. I have concentrated on giving as much information as possible on internal flights within Argentina. Suffice it to say that Buenos Aires has between 40 and 50 plane arrivals weekly from Europe, and 30 to 40 weekly from North America. From Australia and New Zealand there are three weekly flights. The Argentine national carrier is Aerolíneas Argentinas and flies to Canada, USA, England, Germany, France, Australia, New Zealand, Switzerland, Italy, and Spain. The major airlines are listed under Air services in 19

ARGENTINA the Buenos Aires City chapter; see page 64.

From Buenos Aires Province From Tigre, a passenger ferry crosses the Paraná–Uruguay delta to Carmelo. See page 223 From Entre Ríos • Bridges across the Río Uruguay, open 24 hours, include a link between Gualeguaychú and Fray Bentos, and the General Artigas Bridge between Colón and Paysandú. See Border crossing from Gualeguaychú on page 960 and from Colón on page 938 • You can cross from Concordia to Salto, either by passenger ferry (the passport control at the ferry terminal operates only while there are ferries running) or by bus over the Salto Grande Bridge which is open 24 hours a day. See Water transport on page 950 •

Visa requirements No visas are necessary for citizens of EU countries, Japanese, Canadians, United States citizens, and Australian passport holders; New Zealanders must obtain a visa — this is best done from their home country before departure. It is also suggested to obtain visas for neighboring countries such as Uruguay, Brasil, Chile and Bolivia should they be required. At the entry point you will be issued a 90 days’ tourist card which can be renewed for another 90 days. On leaving Argentina this card is handed in. Extensions to these 90-day visas can be obtained in major cities from Migraciones in cities such as Córdoba, Mendoza, and Salta, which are listed in this guidebook in the relevant cites under “Visas, passports”. During my prolonged research trips I found it much easier to cross the border into a neighboring country and obtain a new stamp which lets you stay another 90 days.

Border crossings into Brazil From Misiones Day excursions from the Brazilian side of the Iguazú Falls to Puerto Iguazú in Argentina do not require a visa. • At Puerto Iguazú you cross the Río Iguazú to Foz do Iguaçu by the Presidente Tancred Neve bridge. See Border crossing on page 1018 • There are ferry links from San Javier to Porto Lucenas, from Alba Posse to Porto Magua • There is a land crossing from Bernardo de Irigoyen to Dionisio Cerqueira. See Border crossing on page 993 From Corrientes • Paso de los Libres is linked to Uruguaiana by a modern bridge, open 24 hours. See Border crossing on page 925

Border crossings At the time of writing there were more than 30 authorized border crossings. Most of the high-altitude passes into Chile are subject to adverse weather conditions. Border crossings into Uruguay From Buenos Aires City Hovercraft and ferries travel from Buenos Aires to Colonia and Montevideo, and there is a vehicle ferry to Montevideo which crosses in about 4 hours. The ferry terminal provides passport control.

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INTRODUCTION •

The marshy border between Argentina and Paraguay along the Río Pilcomayo is not well defined because the river here is ever-shifting. There are no border crossings in this area.

There is a new bridge over the Río Uruguay from Santo Tomé to Sao Borja. See page 929

Border crossings into Paraguay From Misiones • To get from Puerto Iguazú to Punta del Este in Paraguay, you must first cross over the Tancred Neve Bridge to Foz do Iguaçu in Brazil, and cross the Ponte de Amistad from there to Ciudad del Este (formerly Puerto Presidente Stroessner). There are no direct ferry connections over the Río Alto Paraná between Puerto Iguazú and Paraguay. See Border crossing on page 1018 • There is a bridge over the Río Alto Paraná from Posadas to Encarnación. See Border crossing on page 1009 From Corrientes • A ferry runs between Paso de la Patria and Paso de la Patria in Paraguay over the Río Paraná. See Water transport on page 924 • When the Yacyretá hydroelectric scheme is completed there will be a new bridge crossing over the Río Paraná. See Excursions from Ituzaingó on page 918 From Formosa • You can get from Clorinda to Asunción by the Puente Internacional Ignacio de Loyola over the Río Pilcomayo, or travel by ferry from Puerto Pilcomayo to Ita Enramada across the Río Paraguay. See Excursions on page 889 and Water transport on page 888 • From the city of Formosa itself, a ferry runs to Isla Alberdi across the Río Paraguay. See Border crossing on page 891

Border crossings into Bolivia From Pocitos (also known as Profesor Salvador Mazza) in Salta, there is a land-crossing to Yacuiba, and from Agua Blanca there is a bridge across the Río Bermejo to Pozos Bermejo. See page 793 • In Jujuy there is a bridge between La Quiaca across the Río La Quiaca to Villazón. See page 832 •

Border crossings into Chile If you are entering from Chile you will find Argentine consulates in Santiago, Puerto Montt, Puntas Arenas, Arica, and Antofagasta. A series of high mountain passes cross the Andes between Argentina and Chile. These may be closed by bad weather, and you should check with the Automóvil Club Argentino (A.C.A.) before attempting them. The sequence of border crossings into Chile is described from north to south. From Jujuy • Paso de Jama. This is a new pass linking Jujuy with Antofagasta via San Pedro de Atacama in neighboring Chile. The road has been upgraded on both sides of the border and is the latest in scenic Andean crossings. Buses Tramaca runs two bus services per week from Antofagasta via Calama and San Pedro de Atacama to Jujuy. See Border crossing in Susques on page 838; and also the companion volume Travel Companion Chile and Easter 21

ARGENTINA Centenario and on the Chilean side in Juntas. The pass road starts after Iglesia. See International mountain passes in San Juan Province on page 678; and also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región IV de Coquimbo” From Mendoza • Paso de la Cumbre (the Chileans call it Paso del Bermejo), altitude 3860 m, is open 08:30–20:00 in summer. The former pass road has been replaced by a tunnel under the border. This pass connects the cities of Mendoza and Santiago in Chile. The Argentine border post is at Punta de Vacas, the Chilean border control is 10 km east of Portillo. In winter, snow chains are compulsory and heavy snowfalls may close the pass temporarily. This a very scenic drive especially on the Chilean side. It is the most important border crossing between Argentina and Chile and is open 24 hours all year round. See Mountain passes to Chile in Mendoza Province on page 632; and also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región V de Valparaíso” • Paso del Maule or Paso Pehuenche between San Rafael and Talca in Chile is open in summer. The distance from Talca on RI 115 to the border is 180 km and from the border to San Rafael 345 km. There are no regular bus services apart from tourist buses The pass road starts at Bardas Blancas. The pass is closed in winter. See Mountain passes to Chile in Mendoza Province on page 632; and also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island , “Región VII del Maule”

Island, “Región II de Antofagasta” From Salta • The Paso de la Laguna Sico replaces the Paso de Huaitiquina between Salta via San Antonio de los Cobres and Antofagasta in Chile; altitude 4089 m. The road is frequently cut in winter. The road on the Argentine side is also much improved as far as San Antonio de los Cobres, where Argentine passport control is located. Chilean passport control, open between sunrise and sunset, is in San Pedro de Atacama. If the bus from Argentina is delayed, carabineros are on duty late at night. See Excursions from Salta on page 809; and also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región II de Antofagasta” From Catamarca • Paso de San Francisco is at an altitude of 4726 m on RN 31, connecting La Rioja with Copiapó. Open from sunrise to sunset, but usually closed in winter as heavy snowfalls make the road impassable between June and September. RN 31 from Tinogasta in Catamarca Province is now completely paved right up to the Chilean border. On the Chilean side it is less developed. Argentine passport control is at La Grotto. See Excursions from Fiambalá on page 750; and also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región III de Atacama” From San Juan • Paso del Agua Negra, altitude 4775 m, between San Juan and La Serena, was reopened for tourist traffic in 1991. Passport control on the Argentine side is in Baño

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INTRODUCTION in good condition. Chilean border control is in Puerto Pirehueico at the boat ramp. There are regular buses from Hua Hum to San Martín. It is more interesting, however, to make the scenic trip by boat across the Lago Lacar, enclosed by steep mountains. See Water transport from San Martín de los Andes on page 424; and also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island , “Región IX de la Araucania” • Portezuelo de Puyehué, altitude 1308 m, connects Bariloche with Osorno in Chile. The pass remains open all year round: in summer 08:00–24:00; in winter 08:00–17:00. This is another very scenic trip. This is the second most important border crossing between the two countries, especially in the summer tourist season. On the Chilean side the road runs through the Parque Nacional Puyehué and on the Argentine side through Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi. There is regular public transport from Osorno to San Carlos de Bariloche. This pass is open all year. See also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región X de los Lagos” From Río Negro • Paso de Pérez Rosales, altitude 1022 m, connects Puerto Montt with Bariloche. Although some snow falls in winter, the pass is open all year round 08:30–18:30. This outstanding scenic drive can be made only with a tour operator starting in Bariloche. The trip, which takes 11 hours, alternates six times between road and lake transport. See Andean mountain passes in Río Negro Province on

From Neuquén • Paso de Pino Hachado, altitude 1884 m, located on Ruta R-89, connects Temuco with Zapala in Argentina. It is closed in winter from the end of May to October. Chilean Border control is at Liucura, open from 08:30–16:30. There are regular buses between Temuco and Zapala and Neuquén in Argentina. See page 439; and also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región IX de la Araucania” • Paso de Icalma, altitude 1298 m, open 08:30–16:30. This alternative route from Temuco to Zapala in Argentina may be closed in winter because of heavy snow. This is a scenic drive especially in Argentine where the road skirts Lago Aluminé and passes Primeros Pinos, a fledgling tourist resort. See page 421; and also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región IX de la Araucania” • Paso Tromen (Chileans call it Paso Mamuil Mallal), altitude 1207 m, open 08:30–18:30; closed in winter; connects Junín de los Andes with Temuco in Chile. Regular buses run between Temuco and Junín in summer. See Excursions from Junín de los Andes on page 411; and also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región IX de la Araucania” • Paso Hua Hum, altitude 659 m, between San Martín de los Andes and Valdivia in Chile; open all year round 08:00–17:30. This border crossing is recommended to tourists because of its scenic beauty. The gravel road from Hua Hum to Puerto Pirehueico is

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ARGENTINA page 446 and Excursions from Bariloche on page 462; and also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región X de los Lagos” From Chubut • Futaleufú in Chile, altitude 515 m, connects Esquel with the port of Chaitén in Chile. Chilean passport control is open 08:30–17:00. The Argentine border control is a short distance before the bridge over the Río Futaleufú. See Border crossing in Trevelín on page 541; also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región X de los Lagos” • Paso Carrenleufú, also known as Paso Palena, altitude 1200 m, connects Esquel with Chaitén in Chile. It is difficult for foreign passport holders to use this crossing, because the Argentines consider it an official pass only for Chilean and Argentine ID card holders living in the border area. This may have changed, but do not be surprised if you are stopped at the border. If crossing here, report to the authorities in Esquel to get an entry stamp. The route from Chaitén in Chile is the same as the one for the Futaleufú crossing as far as Puerto Ramírez. At Puerto Ramírez, continue on RN 235 to Palena. The 152 km gravel road to Palena lacks bridges, and is cut by snow occasionally in winter. Palena to the border is a further 8 km. The Río Encuentro forms the border between the two countries. There are no public buses from the border to Palena — the carabineros on the Chilean side will usually help. Public transport runs three times a week directly from Esquel to the Argentine border

control post, via Corcovado. The border is open from sunrise to sunset all year round, weather permitting. The nearest accommodation is in Palena in Chile and Trevelín in Argentina. See Corcovado on page 507; and also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región X de los Lagos” From Santa Cruz • Cross from Perito Moreno to Chile Chico. This trip requires fording a river some 400m wide (not very deep, but extremely cold). See Excursions from Perito Moreno on page 569; and Chile Chico in Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región XI de Aisén” • From Río Turbio, cross to Puerto Natales using the Paso Mina Uno going past the new skiing area. See Border crossing at Río Turbio on page 584; and also Puerto Natales in Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región XI de Aisén” From Tierra del Fuego • Control Fronterizo de San Sebastián, altitude 296 m, open from sunrise to sunset all year round, with occasional interruptions due to bad weather. This pass connects Porvenir with Río Grande. Ruta Y-71 to the border is 149 km and is mostly a dirt road. From the border to Río Grande is a further 107 km. The road is being upgraded on the Argentine side and about 40 km north of Río Grande becomes sealed. There are regular bus service between Porvenir and Río Grande; indeed there are now bus connections between Punta Arenas and Río Grande. See also Border crossing in San Sebastián

24

INTRODUCTION on page 591; and Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island , “Región XII de Magallanes”, entry for San Sebastián

areas of Tucumán, Salta, and Catamarca with the pre-Hispanic ruins of Quilmes are another tourist “must”.

Railroads

What to take

The deficit-ridden railroad corporations have been privatized and the passenger services to many remote provinces have been slashed. Most of the former railroad lines emanating from Buenos Aires are now only commuter lines to the suburbs or greater Buenos Aires. TUFESA runs long-distance passenger services to Tucumán via Rosario and Santiago del Estero departing from Retiro station. There are still passenger services to the seaside resorts of Mar del Plata and Necochea and also to Bahía Blanca leaving from Constitución station. From Miserere station there are passenger trains to Santa Rosa in La Pampa Province. Trains are in general cheaper than bus services for the same route but slower.

Argentina is a modern country with ready access to most items found in North America or Europe — but at a price. All imported goods are expensive: cameras, films, cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, tape cassettes for mini-recorders, and so on. As a rule it can be said if an item is available in Frankfurt, London, or New York, then you will find it in Buenos Aires. When traveling into the interior, most basic travelers’ needs can be purchased in the provincial capitals. Further out from Buenos Aires such as in Patagonia south of Comodoro Rivadavia or in the north-west, local lifestyles become more basic still, and you should pre-purchase any special travel commodities you require to allow for this.

Tourism

Getting around the cities and towns

Argentina has only recently been discovered by tourists. It is very popular with visitors from Europe, and especially those from Italy or those German-speaking countries which have provided Argentina with migrants in the past. Argentina is the ideal summertime destination for vacationers fleeing from winters in the northern hemisphere. Overseas visitors should include on their itinerary the Iguazú Falls (Cataratas del Iguazú) and the Jesuit mission ruins in Misiones; and the Península Valdés in Chubut with its sea-lion, whale, and seal colonies. The Perito Moreno Glacier in Santa Cruz Province and the Calchaquí

Street names and city blocks Most Argentine cities were established on the usual Spanish rectangular grid pattern: centered on a Plaza, usually named after San Martín. From the central plaza main roads radiate to outer suburbs. Street intersections create city blocks or cuadras. Each block out from the center starts numbering in divisions of a hundred, though some towns in Entre Ríos Province start each block in divisions of fifty. Hence the first block of any street radiating from the central plaza is block zero with numbers from 1 to 100; the second block until

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ARGENTINA the next cross street is block 100, with numbers running from 101 to 200; and so on. Wherever you are in a city district you can work out exactly how many blocks you are away from the center and accordingly decide whether to walk, hail a taxi, or take a bus. Argentines adore their heroes, so it is not surprising to find the same street names used repeatedly. For example, the name of San Martín, who brought independence to Argentina, Chile, and Peru is often used to name the main street, but can appear in the form of El Libertador or General José de San Martín. Other favorites include General Belgrano (another Independence War general), General Urquiza who toppled dictator Rosas, Sarmiento (a president and scholar), H. Yrigoyen (a former president), and General Roca (a General in the Desert Campaign). The spelling of names on street signs can vary in the same street — many a street in a northern town is undecided between “Yrigoyen” (Hipólito) and “Irigoyen” (Bernardo de)!

Updates will be available on our Web site: www. companiontravel.com.au

Road services in Argentina The naming system There are two sets of road systems: national and provincial. Rutas Nacionales or national roads are maintained by the national government and are indicated as “RN” followed by a number. Provincial roads are maintained by the provinces and are indicated in the text as “RP” followed by a number. Argentina has a few “autopistas”, mostly in and around the capital Buenos Aires and one going north to Rosario and Santa Fe; they are tollways. However, tolls are also payable on some rutas nacionales. Argentines, like the rest of South America, drive on the right-hand side, and wearing seat belts is compulsory. Many national roads are measured from “Kilómetro Cero” (Kilometer Zero) located in Plaza de Mayo in Buenos Aires. Addresses It is common for hotels in isolated areas to use “KM” as part of their address, followed by the highway number. In the case of “RP” (for “Ruta Provincial”) this indicates the distance of an address from the provincial capital; and in the case of “RN” (for “Ruta Nacional”) the distances are from the national capital of Buenos Aires.

Future editions Local correspondents in many towns are providing a constant update of this guidebook, but it is the discerning eye of the traveler who we should like to let us know if any part of this book needs revision: so please write to us. This book is written with the intention of helping travelers make the best of their stay in this beautiful country, and by helping us to achieve this aim you are helping future travelers.

Bus services in Argentina Buenos Aires of course is the hub for all bus transport in Argentina, closely followed by Córdoba. Here are a few of the major bus companies and regions they serve:

26

INTRODUCTION •

•

•

•

•

•

Andesmar: A Mendoza-based company with services spanning Argentina from Pocitos (otherwise known as Profesor Salvador Mazza) on the Bolivian border to Río Gallegos in Patagonia via Córdoba. Services from their home base in Mendoza radiate south to Bariloche via Neuquén and north to Salta via La Rioja, Catamarca, and Tucumán. They are also a major tour operator with summer services to Chile, and they are also a passenger airline operator Don Otto: South to Patagonian destinations — from Buenos Aires to Río Negro, Chubut, and Santa Cruz. Their home base is Chubut Province, with an extensive network of services throughout this province to the Andes region General Urquiza: Services from Buenos Aires to central and north-western destinations such as Córdoba, La Rioja, and Catamarca La Veloz del Norte: Central and north-western destinations such as Córdoba, Santiago del Estero, Tucumán, Salta, and Jujuy Singer: Services from Buenos Aires north-east through Mesopotamia to Puerto Iguazú; most of their services are along the Río Uruguay. From their home base in Misiones Province they run buses to neighboring Brazilian destinations

•

T.A. Chevallier: Services from Buenos Aires to Bariloche via Santa Rosa and Neuquén; to Mendoza via San Luis; and to Salta via Córdoba, Santiago del Estero, and Tucumán T.A.C. (Transportes Autmotores del Cuyo): A Mendoza-based bus operator running buses through the Cuyo regions to the north-western regions. From their home base in Mendoza they run services to Río Gallegos in deepest Patagonia

Thermal resorts Abundant thermal water surfaces along the Cordillera de los Andes as a result of Argentina’s highly volcanic topography. But thermal spas exist or are developing also in non-volcanic areas such as Entre Ríos, Buenos Aires, and the Chaco. The major thermal resorts are: • Termas de Río Hondo in Santiago del Estero Province; see page 858 • Termas de Copahue in Neuquén Province; see page 397 • Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña in Chaco Province; see page 871 • Termas de Cacheuta in Mendoza Province; see page 636 • Termas de Pismanta in San Juan Province; see page 683 • Rosario de la Frontera, Salta Province; see page 793 • Catamarca Province has many hot springs but none with any facilities; see Fiambalá and Tinogasta on pages 749 and 754

27

HOW TO USE THE TRAVEL COMPANION ARGENTINA H OW TO USE

s a convenient reference point, we have assumed that most tourists will enter Argentina by air, through Buenos Aires. The Travel Companion starts with Buenos Aires and is then subdivided into seven sections, for each of the seven main regions, moving counter-clockwise from Buenos Aires down the South Atlantic coast, back up the Andes, and then eastwards across to Buenos Aires again.

A

Regions Each of the seven main subdivisions used here corresponds to some geographical, historical, or cultural region: • Buenos Aires city and environs (the Capital Federal) • The Pampa provinces, which include Argentina’s major agricultural hinterland, made up of the vast plains or pampas of Buenos Aires and La Pampa provinces • Patagonia — Argentina south of the Río Negro, including the Province of Tierra del Fuego • The Chaco provinces — Those provinces of Argentina in the Chaco, the tropical and subtropical rainforests and the savannas of the central northern region

•

•

•

which extend northward into Bolivia and Paraguay The Cuyo provinces — The mid-continental desert regions, east of the Andes (originally part of the Vice-Royalty of Chile) Mesopotamia — The isolated north-eastern provinces between the Río Paraná and the Río Uruguay The north-western provinces — The area first permanently settled by Indians and the Spanish

Provinces All provinces within each region are described separately. Each province begins with a table of cities and towns, each with a series of symbols

28

HOW TO USE town in the vicinity, usually under “Accommodation”,"Eating out", or “Camping”, indicating the distance and providing a brief description. Towns are listed in the order of the English alphabet — that is to say, “Ch” and “Ll” are treated as they are in English, not as in Spanish. Following the practice of the maps issued by the Automóvil Club Argentina, a space within a name files before the letter “A”, so that “La Población” precedes “Laboulaye”. In some provinces when there are a lot of small places with facilities but nothing else I have collected them under the heading “Stopovers” at the end of the chapter. Indicated here is the nearest town fully described and the facilities, usually only accomodation but in some cases eating out and transport. The table is followed by a general introduction to the province. An explanation of the symbols used in the Travel Companion is given on page 10. The name of each region and province is given at the head of every page; and on every page opening the last town named is given at the foot of the page. Cities and towns listed in this Travel Companion provide a wide range of attractions for the visitor, such as cultural, historical, and sporting facilities. All times are given according to the 24-hour clock. Important towns may be known by two names, especially where that town is also a provincial capital: the longer form is often the official name. I have used the shorter version in this guide. Examples: • Tucumán’s official name is San Miguel de Tucumán

indicating the facilities and attractions available. Each chapter first provides an overview: a detailed list of places described, together with symbols indicating the facilities and features to be found in each town, an introductory section describing its size, location, history, topography, economy, climate, transport, national parks, thermal resorts, and best tourist destinations. This is followed by descriptions of cities and towns and national parks or reserves in alphabetical order. In each entry an opening section details the altitude, population, postal code, telephone area code, and distances from other cities and towns: for provincial capitals this distance is from Buenos Aires; for smaller cities and towns the distance is to the provincial capital and sometimes other nearby cities. This distance indicator is a rough guide to where bus services originate for particular destinations in this province. Large cities like Buenos Aires and Mar del Plata may be subdivided into barrios or geographical sections to make the entries (such as “Accommodation” and “Eating out”) easier to follow.

Cities and towns Places are included as major tourist towns if they fulfill one of the following criteria: • there is something of interest there • there are tourist facilities, in particular accommodation, eating places, and transport • the place is en route to a place of interest and suitable for a stopover. In many cases I have included a small place within the text of a larger 29

ARGENTINA •

These are then followed by indicaCatamarca’s official name is San tors for airlines, currency exchange Fernando del Valle de Catamarca facilities, accommodation, and • Jujuy’s official name is San Salvapoints of interest such as museums dor de Jujuy and monuments. • Bariloche’s official name is San Travel Companion Argentina is Carlos de Bariloche designed to help travelers find eatWhere possible, bureaux de change ing places, accommodation, bus ser(cambios) are listed so you can cash vices, or gas stations wherever they travelers’ checks as you proceed may be in Argentina. Some places around Argentina. At the time of going to print, one Argentinian peso may have these amenities only and (“$”) equals one US dollar. Prices little else of interest; these towns quoted throughout this guide are in have been included as “Stopovers” US dollar equivalents, as these at the end of each provincial chapter. should not vary much. The accommodation and restauChanging travelers, checks is rants in large towns are not fully no problem in the bigger cities. covered, but all facilities are listed However, with the advent of “plasfor small country towns. This guidetic money” I recommend using ATM book encourages you to venture befacilities — every major town now yond the “normal” tourist circuit. Travelers often avoid places because has at least one ATM. they think there is nowhere to stay, The information for each town but locations off the beaten track has been itemized under up to 23 may reveal something of particular sections; not all sections appear uninterest. With this Travel Companion, der all towns. To facilitate scanning, you should not feel stranded anyeach section heading has an identiwhere in Argentina. If it is not alfying symbol; these symbols are ready in this book, I should like to listed on page 10. hear about it. To help you find your way When I have stayed at a hotel, around the major towns or tourist & eaten at a restaurant, or used some centers, 160 street maps are infacility, and particularly enjoyed it cluded. These street maps show the or found it excellent value or the main points of interest, which are staff exceptionally helpful, I have numbered and explained in accommarked the entry with a pointing panying keys. Letters are affixed to hand & to indicate a personal recomeach map and the key to the map: mendation. • A main cathedral or church • B Casa de Gobierno or Provincial Index House of Assembly At the end of the Travel Companion is • C Municipalidad or Town Hall an index to all the places mentioned • D post office in the Companion. Each place name • E telephone referred to in the Index appears in • G market the text in bold type. To get the most • H hospital out of the index, read the “Introduc• I tourist information tion” to the index carefully. • P gas stations, usually A.C.A. The index is an almost complete • T bus terminal reference to all places and towns in 30

HOW TO USE listing for each town. It is laid out to resemble a typical entry. Entries may be for a city, a town, a national park or reserve, or even a “Cajón” — a river system in the high Andes.

Argentina which may be of interest to a tourist.

Sample entry The following explains how to use the information provided in the

TOWN OR CITY NAME Population: Postal code: @ area code: Altitude: Distances: For provincial capital cities the distance from Buenos Aires is given. For smaller towns, the distance is given from other major centers, together with the highway numbers of the recommended routes: “RN” for “Ruta Nacional” (or “National Highway”), and “RP” for “Ruta Provincial” (or “Provincial Highway”). All distances are in kilometers

I

ntroductory information, giving where appropriate the location, brief history and description, items of interest in the locality, and instructions on how to get there.

A Festivals

B Tourist information

Local fiestas are listed, together with the dates when they are held. Fiestas usually honor the patron saint or foundation of a particular city. A brief description of the festivities and historic origin are usually given. Some people like fiestas; others prefer to avoid them as hotels may be full and the banks closed. Some festivals held in nearby villages are also included. Official holidays in Argentina: • January 1 • Good Friday • May 1: Labor Day • May 25: Independence Day • June 10: Día de las Islas Malvinas (Malvinas Day) • June 20: Día de la Bandera (Flag Day) • July 9: Día de la Independencia (Independence Day) • August 17: Muerte del General San Martín (anniversary of General San Martín’s death) • October 12: Día de la Raza (celebration of membership of the family of Hispanic and Portuguese peoples) • December 25: Navidad (Christmas Day)

Official city and provincial tourist information centers and offices (or Casas de Turismo) are listed indicating office hours @/fax numbers, and in some cases e-mail addresses or Web pages. Other sources are National Parks and Wildlife Services and mountaineering clubs. In the Buenos Aires City chapter I have included a list of tour operators that organize guided tours to remote areas.

C Accommodation

Listings for each city include those hotels recommended by their respective provincial tourist offices. Accommodation is listed primarily in alphabetical order but “star establishments” are placed first. In addition, Residenciales have been assigned an alphabetical rating from A through C. For large towns the list starts with a fairly comprehensive but selective list of accommodation in the center; in very large towns accommodation is listed by suburbs or by geographical areas. In smaller towns and villages all accommodation is listed where known.

31

ARGENTINA Key to map A B

C D E F G H

Iglesia Gobernación Provincial (Government) Municipalidad (Town hall) Post Office and Telex Telephone Policia (Police) Mercado Municipal Hospital

I P $ T 3 4 5 6

Tourist information Service stations; A.C.A. Money exchange Bus terminals Accommodation Eating out Entertainment Airline offices

7 Tour operators and car rental 8 Bus companies 9 Sights 0 Services L Financial B Casas de Provincia - Subte stations in Buenos Aires

•

Hospedaje — Cheaper lodgings, usually a type of residencial, but not officially recognized An address is given for each hotel, followed by symbols showing facilities available — see the “Service codes” box below. Telephone numbers, and rates for double rooms 2 and single rooms 1 are listed where known. Where appropriate, separate rates are given for full board (all meals) and half board (breakfast only). When a hotel’s normal rate includes breakfast, this is indicated. For budget-minded travelers and young people, we have listed the budget accommodation (private accommodation and residenciales) which is normally situated near bus terminals and train stations. Those which only have basic facilities have been specifically noted as being suitable for backpackers or budget travelers. See “Price range codes” on page 33. For sm aller outlying towns all available accommodation has been listed.

Each listing is graded by type of accommodation: Apart hotels, Hotels, Hosterías, Residenciales, Hospedajes, Motels, Cabañas, and private accommodation. The terms are all explained in the Glossary beginning on page 1030. Hotels have been assigned a star rating by appropriate local authorities, and are arranged here in decreasing star number order. Ratings can vary between provinces, so it is best to check in the tourist office in the provincial capital. As a guide, five stars in Argentina is about the same as four stars in the US or Europe. But international chains are on a par with their European or North American counterparts. Classifications used for accommodation include: • Hostería — A smaller version of an hotel, with up to 20 bedrooms. Coded by up to three stars • Residencial — Officially-recognized cheap accommodation. It is coded A, B, or C, A being the best

C Accommodation — Service codes

Sernatur has established a set of symbols to denote services provided at places of accommodation. I have expanded those symbols further and these symbols have been used in the “Accommodation” sections and to a lesser extent the “Camping” sections throughout this book. N Children’s games A Hot water O Tour organizer B Kitchenette P Private bathroom C Bar fridge R Swimming pool D TV in room S Breakfast included E Cafeteria $ Money exchange for guests F Restaurant T Telephone in room G Bar U Room service H Parking V Heating provided I Luggage stored W Open in season only J Lounge X Disco K Credit cards accepted Y Air-conditioning L Laundry service and/or facilities Z Pickup service, and/or car rental M Conference room

32

HOW TO USE C Accommodation — Price range codes

Accommodation in apartments, cabañas, hotels, hosterías, motels, residenciales, pensiones, and private accommodation are indicated by means of price range codes, usually for doubles. Note that the symbol 1 indicates that the price is for a single room; and the symbol 2 indicates that the price is for a double room. $A Over $250.00 2 $B $200.00–$249.00 2 $C $150.00–$199.00 2 $D $100.00–$149.00 2 $E $75.00–$99.00 2 $F $50.00–$74.00 2 $G $35.00–$49.00 2 $H $20.00–$34.00 2 $I $10.00–$19.00 2 $J $5.00–$10.00 2

D Camping

Restaurants in nearby towns or outside the periphery of the town are also indicated. In many cases some good restaurants are located on by-pass roads. The main meal of the day in Argentina is supper, and usually starts from 21:00 and goes until the early hours of the following morning. It is not unusual to order a full dinner at 1 am. Cheap meals are usually available from cafeterias, bars, and pizzerías, as well as from kiosks in bus terminals and train stations.

Camping is popular in Argentina, and there are many camping sites, often on the outskirts of cities and usually with overnight vans for hire. In many of the national or provincial parks there are good camping facilities. Camping sites on maps are shown with the symbol for accommodation

E Eating out

Restaurant listings for the larger cities may seem comprehensive, but are not exhaustive — they are intended to show you the range of eating facilities available to travelers. In larger cities this section is divided into districts to help you locate nearby eating places. Where known, eateries are further classified into restaurants (including parrillas or steak houses), pizzerías, cafeterías, and cafés. Where a restaurant specializes in a particular cuisine, this is indicated, for example “Parrilla”, “Seafood”, “Italian cuisine”, “Vegetarian”. Where known we have indicated a price range code; see “Price range codes” below. However, breakfast should cost between $2.50 and $5.00, lunch between $8.00 and $12.00, and a full dinner between $15.00 and $25.00. A main meal in a fancy restaurant should cost about $35.00.

n Entertainment

Entertainment includes lists of discos, restaurants with dancing or shows — especially tango shows — nightclubs and casinos. Theaters and cultural centers are also included here.

I Post and telegraph Post offices Post and telegraph services are provided by the state-owned company Encotel, also known as Correo Argentino. With the deregulation of formerly state-controlled organizations there are now many private mail services. The best known private carriers are Andreani Int e r n a t i o n a l (@ 4 3 0 1 2 0 0 2 ) , O C A

E Eating out — Price range codes $X $Y $Z

Over $20.00 $11.00–$20.00 Under $10.00

Recommended for de luxe travelers Recommended for intermediate travelers Recommended for budget travelers

33

ARGENTINA Banks and casas de cambio usually have multilingual staff. Those banks in provincial capitals which give cash against a Visa card or have automatic teller machines (ATM’s) are indicated. It should be noted that some establishments when accepting a credit card add the cost charged to them by the financial institutions. On the other scale are establishments which give you a discount if you are paying cash. When making purchases or inquiring about accommodation, ask.

(@ 47887777), and DHL Expreso Mundial (@ 43470600), both offering international parcel express services; they have offices in every major town. Correo Argentino charges $1.25 for an international letter; OCA charges $3.50 for an international letter. Telephones The Argentine telephone service has been privatized and is now in the hands of two companies: Telecom and Telefónica Argentina. Argentina has been divided into three telephone zones: Capital Federal (including greater Buenos Aires) and a southern and northern region. The telephone system has been vastly improved over the past ten years, but is still bursting at the seams. International calls at the time of writing are (per minute): USA US$0.92, Australia US$3.80, England US$1.55. For telephone service information ring 110; all operators speak English. Phone cards may be purchased from newsagents, tobacconists, some bars, and hotel cashiers. Calls from hotels are usually more expensive and it is better to use a locutorio (a shopfront callbox) even if the wait is longer. Each town’s telphone area prefix code is indicated: @ code. For locations included in a town but with a different telephone area code I indicate the full number to dial. E-mail Many cyber-cafés have sprung up all over Argentina, but is is difficult to include them here as they come and go like the migratory birds. On page 1028 I have listed handy e-mail addresses, including a few cyber-cafés.

M Services

Here are listed addresses for laundromats, equipment hire, supermarkets, and other services and facilities. Hospital and medical facilities are listed for major towns.

N Clubs

National clubs are listed by nationality. Many of these clubs serve meals.

O Churches

Every town has one or more Catholic churches, invariably in a central location. For this reason under “churches“ the Travel Companion lists Protestant or Orthodox churches only. The major Catholic church in a town is often listed under “Sightseeing”: in larger cities this is usually a cathedral dating back to the city’s foundation. Cathedrals are usually an historical feature, particularly for cities such as Córdoba, Tucumán, and Santiago del Estero.

P Visas, passports

Provincial capitals often have consulates for other countries, particularly for those states neighboring Argentina. Capitals in border provinces have a Migración office where visa renewal applications may be lodged.

L Financial

Here are listed facilities where money and travelers’ checks can be exchanged. Casas de cambio usually give you a better exchange rate than the banks. Some institutions do not accept travelers’ checks, and others may accept a particular type only. When planning your trip, it is a good precaution to refer to the “Financial” section in each town you plan to visit, so you know where money exchange facilities are available. This is particularly important on trips to Patagonia and to the north-western provinces.

Q Border crossing

For border towns, the nature of the crossing is described, and any restrictions peculiar to each crossing are noted.

R Air services

Where known, the distance to the airport from the town center is provided, to-

34

HOW TO USE Argentina has an excellent bus service system. Long-distance buses are air-conditioned and have TV. A list of major bus companies and the regions they serve is given on page 26.

gether with bus and taxi services to and from the airport and their approximate fares. Offices and addresses in provincial capitals are given for Argentine airlines only: Aerolineas Argentinas, Austral, L.A.D.E., LAPA, and ALFA. L.A.D.E. is run by the Argentine Air Force, and serves isolated communities in Patagonia. Their aircraft are usually small so that they can land on short airstrips. The shuttle service they provide is generally cheaper than that of Aerolineas Argentinas or Austral, but flights take longer because of stops along the route in remote areas. All remote areas in Patagonia served by L.A.D.E. are indicated in the Travel Companion. The main listing of L.A.D.E. services is under Buenos Aires City on page 66. One drawback for the adventurous traveler is that these flights are usually heavily booked, so you should always confirm your travel arrangements beforehand. Tables of airline destinations indicate the airfare, number of flights per day or week, days on which the services are provided, the duration of the flight, and the servicing airline. Destinations are listed in alphabetical order. You must be aware that timetables are subject to at least two changes per year (summer and winter schedules), so you should always double-check. Night flights on domestic services are substantially cheaper than daylight flights. However, it helps if you arrive as early as possible at your next destination as hotels in some locations may be booked out from late afternoon onwards, especially during the vacation season from December to early March. You can avoid disappointment by making a phone booking before leaving.

U Motoring

The condition of principal roads to the nearest town is given where this is significant. Service stations A service station is given for every town; whenever there was a gas station run by the Automóvil Club Argentino (A.C.A.), I have included them as the preferred station as they may have a good cafeteria or restaurant attached; moreover they sell excellent provincial maps and hojas de ruta (or “road guide sheets”), which have important information required when traveling between two cities, such as from Buenos Aires to Córdoba, or from Tucumán to La Quiaca. The best place to buy any of these is the A.C.A. center at Avenida del Libertador 1850, Buenos Aires, but all provincial towns have a major A.C.A. center. If you are entering Argentina from Bolivia at La Quiaca, there is an A.C.A. service station a few hundred meters from the border with a good supply of most Argentine road maps. Car rental For those who prefer hiring cars, rental firms are indicated. All major car rental firms (Avis, Hertz, Budget) operate throughout Argentina. If you are a card-holder with any of these companies, charges incurred in Argentina can be paid in your home country. Rates are fairly standard throughout Argentina — for a guide to rates see Car rental under Motoring in Buenos Aires on page 73. Automóvil Club Argentina (A.C.A.) Members of foreign automobile clubs get the same service as A.C.A. members on production of their membership card, or you can join up there. The joining fee is very cheap, and A.C.A. hotels and some restaurants offer a 10–15% discount. A.C.A. is a good source for road maps whether you are driving, busing, or hiking. See also e-mail addresses on page 1028.

S Buses

Tables indicate destinations, fares, days on which services are provided, duration of journey, and servicing companies. Destinations are given in the same order as for “Air services” — see above. In cities and towns with numerous bus companies and numerous destinations the names of bus companies have been substituted with a code number on the tables.

35

ARGENTINA T Trains

district of Buenos Aires is full of them, but tanguerías are found all over Argentina.

Train services have been rationalized and many passenger services have been stopped. Some sections still remain and are usually cheaper than bus travel, but will be slower. All railroad lines begin in Buenos Aires. At the moment TUFESA is the only long-distance line still used for passenger services. Buenos Aires Province is also served adequately by passenger trains, as well as a 3-4 weekly service to Santa Rosa in La Pampa Province.

p Sightseeing

Here are listed all museums and art galleries, major churches, convents, monuments, and public buildings of interest. Indicated are opening times, admission charges, and an overview of what is shown.

s Excursions Tour operators Tour operators offering excursions to surrounding districts are listed, together with their telephone and numbers and if available e-mail addresses. Trips are not linked directly to a particular tour operator but only as a guide to what is available; I indicate where possible departure time, duration of the excursion, and fare. If you arrive in Buenos Aires without a firm travel plan, the Casas de Provincias can provide you with information to help you develop one. Buenos Aires city is the point where many tour operators offer interesting day trips in and around Buenos Aires and to destinations in Patagonia, Misiones, and Salta. Most major travel agencies have staff who speak English, German, French, and Italian. Excursions Here are summarized nearby sightseeing opportunities which are readily accessible as day tours from tour operators, or do-it-yourself tours by local bus routes. Cross-references are provided to fuller information found elsewhere in the Travel Companion.

# Water transport

Regular ferry services are supplied and pleasure-craft excursions described.

Y Shopping

Here are listed shops selling specialties of the district. Such special items include date liqueur (only available in La Rioja), gemstones (Misiones), and green onyx (San Luis). In the north-western provinces you can buy alpaca wool clothing.

a Sport

Under this heading, you will find sporting facilities, starting with golf courses, fishing, water-skiing, skin diving, hiking, and so on. Addresses, telephone numbers, and fax numbers or e-mail addresses for mountaineering and ski clubs are given where available.

n Entertainment

Includes lists of discos, night clubs, and casinos. For larger towns discos are grouped by district. A form of entertainment unique to Argentina is the tanguerías, which specialize in tango music and dancing. The Boca

36

BUENOS AIRES CITY

From a very shaky initial foundation in 1536, Buenos Aires has grown into a remarkable cosmopolitan city; not only is it one of the world’s great financial centers, but it is a cultural center not to be missed on any trip to South America. 37

BUENOS AIRES CITY BUENOS C Buenos APITALAires A FIRES EDERAL City CITY

45 40 41 42 43 44 47 49 51 53 55 57 59 61 63 79 79 81 82 83 84 85 85 87 90 92 93 96 98 103

General information BCEnILMNOPSU#Yaps Map of metropolitan Buenos Aires Key to maps Map of Subte Lines Map 1: La Boca Map 2: San Telmo Map 3: San Telmo and Puerto Madero Map 4: Monserrat and Constitución Map 5: San Nicolás and Puerto Madero Map 6: Balvanera, Monserrat, and San Nicolás Map 7: Retiro Map 8: Balvanera and Recoleta Map 9: Recoleta Map 10: Recoleta and Palermo Map 11: Parque Palermo Almagro CEnM Balvanera CEnp Barracas En Belgrano CEnp Caballito CEp Colegiales EnS Constitución CEn La Boca Ep Monserrat CEnp Palermo CEnp Puerto Madero Enp Recoleta CEnp Retiro CEnp San Nicolás CEnp San Telmo CEnpS

38

BUENOS AIRES CITY Population: Capital Federal 3 million; with greater Buenos Aires included the total is 9 million @area code: (011) Altitude: Sea level

he city of Buenos Aires, the eighth largest city in the western world, is located on the Río de la Plata (known in English as the River Plate), east of the Río Paraná and Río Uruguay delta. The city is completely surrounded in the south-east and north by Buenos Aires Province. The southern border is formed by the Río Riachuelo, and the wide Avenida General Paz forms the border from south-east to north-west. It covers an area of approximately 220 square kilometers (85 square miles, and has been virtually rebuilt since the beginning of this century. The city center has retained its original layout with its narrow streets, but few of the original colonial buildings are left. Most of the streets are one-way.

T

With a few interruptions Buenos Aires has been the capital of the Argentine Federation since Independence in 1810. Initially the city served as both the nation’s capital and the capital of Buenos Aires Province, but in 1880 became a separate federal entity and the province of Buenos Aires created its own capital, La Plata. This chapter covers both “Capital Federal” and those parts of greater Buenos Aires now part of Buenos Aires Province. The part known as “Capital Federal”(often written “Cap. Fed.”) consists of forty-six barrios or municipalidades. Each barrio has its own distinctive community life with local bars, cinemas, theaters, and parks where flea-markets and/or concerts are held on weekends. Avenida Rivadavia divides Buenos Aires into east and west: Streets change their names except Avenida 9 de Julio Buenos Aires is a treasure-trove for art and music lovers. It may well be described as the culinary and cultural capital of South America. Buenos Aires has a temperate climate, the warmest months being December to mid March with

temperatures ranging from 18°C (60°F) to 30°C (85°F); the coolest months are June to August with temperatures ranging from +5°C (42°F) to +15°C (56°F). Rain is evenly distributed throughout the year; March and April have the highest rainfall. Because of the sheer volume of the material covered, this chapter is divided into two sections: General information (page 45) and the barrios (beginning on page 78). Tourist information, hospitals, banks and other services, and excursions from the capital are listed in the general section. All accommodation, eating facilities, and sightseeing are listed under each respective barrio.

The tango The name Buenos Aires conjures up visions of the tango. Yes, the birthplace of the tango was here around the 1880. In its early stages the tango was frowned upon by the better class Bonarenses as frivolous. It still is a sensual dance, immortalized by Carlos Gardel. When in Buenos Aires you should not miss attending a tango

39

Buenos Aires City

CAPITAL FEDERAL session. Tours are organized by tour operators to the more touristy places, of course at a price. For those looking for tanguerías off the beaten path I include a list of suggested popular dancing places where the principal music is the tango. As may be expected these venues are in the outer suburbs of Buenos Aires and may take a bit of effort to reach. Look for the word “milonga” which means popular dancing. It can safely be said that each barrio has one or

several “milonga” places. See also Tango clubs on page 56. Most of these establishments provide a “tango class” before the general dancing session starts, where novices are instructed and consequently can practice. Tanguerías • Centro Cultural Torcuato Tasso, Defensa 1575, San Telmo/Barracas @ 43076506. From 20:00 onwards classes for beginners and advanced before the session with live orchestra

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starts. Frequent colectivos from the center Sarajevo, Defensa 827 San Telmo @ 43611160 Popular dancing every Sunday from 18:00 onwards before the start are beginners classes; admission free Milonga en la Plaza, Corrientes 1660, Paseo de la Plaza @ 43705348.

Buenos Aires City

•

44

Organized by the Café Mahler. Sessions every Thursday from 20:00 onwards. Best reached using Línea “B” Callao station La Beba, Alvarez Thomas 1462 Barrio Villa Ortúzar @ 45519276. Every Friday from 20:00 onwards. Far from the normal tourist circuit. Best reached

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•

using Línea “D” Palermo station and from there by taxi Los Andes, Dorrego 582, Barrio Chacarito. Popular dancing Monday and Thursday from 19:00. A bit outside the normal tourist circuit. Best reached using Línea “B” Dorrego station Club Almagro, Medrano 522 Barrio Almagro @ 47747454. Best reached using Línea “B” Medrano station and then a short taxi ride Club Cricel, La Rioja 1180, Barrio Balvanera/Almagro near Once train station @ 49577157. Sessions Fridays from 22:30 till 05:00 Saturdays from 22:30 till 04:00, and Sundays until 02:00. Best reached using Línea “E” Urquiza station and then a short taxi ride Club Fulgor de Villa Crespo, Loyola 828, Barrio Villa Crespo. Popular dancing Sundays from 19:00; Monday, Tuesday and Thursday from 21:00; tango lessons before the dancing sessions. Best reached using Línea “B” Angel Gallardo station then short taxi trip

•

•

•

•

La Tangoteca, Alicia Moreau de Justo 1728, Puerto Madero @ 43111988). Tango lessons every day from 16:00–20:00. Easily reached from the center Fundación La Casa del Tango, Guardia Vieja 4049 Barrio Almagro @ 48630463. Friday from 20:00 onwards popular disco; Saturdays live band with popular music from 21:00. Best reached using Línea “B” Angel Gallardo station Viejo Correo, Diaz Vélez 4820 Barrio Caballito near Parque Centenario @ 49580364. Popular dancing daily from 22:30; tango classes start at 20:00. Best reached using Línea “A” Acoyte station and short taxi ride El Pial, Ramón Falcón 2750 Altura Rivadavia 7000, Barrio Flores @ 46124257. Dancing sessions Thursdays from 21:00 and Sundays from 18:00. This may be a long way out from the downtown area but try it anyway Las Dama de Bollini, Pasaje Bollini, Recoleta @ 48056399. Sessions Mon, Wed, and Sat 21:00–24:00

GENERAL INFORMATION

General Information

B Tourist information

the capital, rather than count on being able to find the information once you are in the provinces. This applies in particular to map purchases. Tourist information kiosks are located at each end of Calle Florida. The staff speak at least German, French, English, and Portuguese.

Buenos Aires is the best place to obtain up-to-date information on all parts of Argentina. All provincial tourist agencies — “Casas”— have offices here, and it is a good idea — and easier — to take advantage of this and obtain information about the places you plan to visit while still in

45

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL •

Casa de Córdoba, Avenida Callao 332, San Nicolás @ 43726566/ 44762725/43734277/1668 • Casa de Corrientes, San Martín 333, 4th floor, San Nicolás @ 43947432/ 43948059 • Casa de Entre Ríos, Suipacha 844, Retiro @ 43289327/43282284. Mon–Fri 09:00–18:00 • Casa de Formosa, H. Yrigoyen 1429, Montserrat @ 43817048/43812037 • Casa Provincia de Jujuy, Avenida Santa Fe 967, Retiro @ 43942295/ 43933174/43936096. Open Mon–Fri. 09:00–20:00 • Casa de La Pampa, Suipacha 346, San Nicolás @ 43261145/43260511 • Casa de La Rioja, Viamonte 749, San Nicolás @ 43261140 • Casa de Mendoza, Avenida Callao 445, Balvanera @ 43717301 • Casa de Misiones, Avenida Santa Fe 989, Retiro @ 43221671/43220677 • Casa del Neuquén, Perón 687, San Nicolás @ 43266812/43261188. Open Mon–Fri 09:30–16:00 • Casa de Río Negro, Tucumán 1916, Balvanera @ 43715599. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 • Casa de Salta, Avenida R.S. Peña 933, San Nicolás @ 43261314/43260321 • Casa de San Juan, Sarmiento 1251, San Nicolás @ 43829241/43825580/ 43825591 • Casa de San Luis, Azcuénaga 1083, Recoleta @ 48239413 • Casa de Santa Cruz, Suipacha 1120, San Nicolás @ 43253098 fax. Open Mon–Fri. 10:00–17:30 • Casa de Santa Fe, Montevideo 373, San Nicolás @ 43711825 • Casa de Santiago del Estero, Florida 274, San Nicolás @ 43221389 • Casa de Tucumán, Suipacha 140, San Nicolás @ 43220564/5 • Casa de Tierra del Fuego, Santa Fe 919, Retiro @ 43253106/43228855 City tourist information • Dirección de Turismo de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires, Sarmiento 1551, 5th floor, San Nicolás @ 43723612. Also has information centers at both ends of Calle Florida, Galerías Pacífico, and Diagonal Norte. Web site: http://www.turismo.gov.ar

Maps and books • Instituto Geográfico Militar (Military Geographic Institute), Avenida Cabildo 301, Palermo @ 47713031; e-mail: [email protected]. Open 08:00–13:00. Take bus 152 from Retiro station & • Guía Peuser is the best street directory and includes a map of “Gran Buenos Aires” as well as colectivo routes • Guía de Turismo y Aventuras de la Argentina Desconocida, Arqueológica y Misteriosa (“Tourism and Adventure Guide to Unknown, Archeological and Mysterious Argentina”) by Federico Kirbus is available from bookshops • Automóvil Club Argentino — A.C.A. The A.C.A. is Argentina’s motorists association. It is shown on map keys as A.C.A. and on the map as gas stations. This organization brings out a range of excellent tourist and motoring maps for each province ($6.60) as well as “Hojas de Ruta” (or route travel guides) for $4.40. For further information on the A.C.A. see page 67 National tourist offices • Dirección Nacional de Turismo, Suipacha 1111 21st floor, Retiro @ 43125611 and 43125621 • Administración de Parques Nacionales (National Parks Administration), Santa Fe 690 near Plaza Libertador San Martín, Retiro @ 43110303 • Fundación Vida Silvestre, Defensa 245, Monserrat @ 43314864, has information and books on Argentine flora and fauna Provincial tourist offices The provincial tourist offices are indicated on the maps by the symbol B. • Casa de Buenos Aires, Avenida Callao 237, Balvanera @ 43717045 and 43716587 • Casa de Catamarca, Avenida Córdoba 2080, Balvanera @ 43746891/5 • Casa del Chaco, Avenida Callao 322, 1st floor, San Nicolás @ 43720961/ 44763045 • Casa del Chubut, Sarmiento 1172, San Nicolás @ 43837458. Open Mon–Fri. 10:30–17:00

General Information

46

BUENOS AIRES CITY Joins map 2 San Telmo and map 4 Monserrat and Constitución

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3 Accommodation 1

Hotel Bolívar

4 Eating out 5

Restaurant Nicole de Marseille

5 Entertainment 2

Restaurant la Convención

3

Restaurant La Casa de Estebán Luca 4 Restaurant Acapulco 6 Restaurant Los Dos Pianitos 7 Restaurant Bar Sur 8 Restaurant Unión Bar 10 Restaurant El Viejo Almacén 11 Restaurant Caminito

47

12 Restaurant Taconeango 13 Restaurant A Media Luz 14 Restaurant Calle de Ángeles 15 Restaurant Molière Café 16 Restaurant Casablanca

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL Stop press: Accommodation for backpackers and budget travelers • • • • • •

Asociación Argentina de Albergues de la Joventud, Brasil 675; see page 103 Che Lagarto Youth Hostel, Combate de los Pozos; see page 80 El Hostal de San Telmo, Carlos Calvo 614 see page 103 V & S Youth Hostel Backpackers, Viamonte 887; see page 101 Metropolitan I, Ave. Corrientes 3973; see page 79 Metropolitan II, Ave. Boedo 449; see page 79

•

Airport information service at Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini is open Mon–Fri 08:30–22:00 • Airport information service at Aeroparque Jorge Newbery is open Mon–Fri 08:30–20:00 and Sat 09:00–19:00 Tourist associations • Asociación Civil GEOS, an organization dedicated to ecotourism and nature preservation. They organize tours • Asociación de Kayakistas para La Aventura (Adventure Kayak Sport Association) @ 47979421/42141995; email: [email protected]. com.ar. Contact Adrian Rossi and Martin Grodna • Asociación Ornitológica del Plata (Del Plata Ornitological Association) @ 43121015 e-mail: safaris@arnet. com.ar. Organizes birdwatching

Key to Map 4

3 Accommodation 1 2 4 7 8 25 28 29 30 31 32 33 36 37 39 40 41 42

Residencial Cyrus Residencial Gran Prince Residencial Carlos I Hospedaje Victoria Hotel Oxford Hotel Intercontinental Buenos Aires Hospedaje La Argentina Hospedaje Uruguay Hospedaje Gran España Hotel Astoria Hospedaje Reina Hotel Castelar Hotel Hispano Hotel Novel Hotel Marbella Hotel Chile Hotel Gran Argentino Hotel Gran Hotel de la Paix

4 Eating out 5

Restaurant Hostal del Canigo

General Information

10 11 12 17 18 23 26 27 34 38

•

•

tours around Buenos Aires and in the Río de la Plata and Río Uruguay estuary. This is a group which caters for tourists interested in birdlife Instituto Argentino de Montañismo (Argentine mountain climbing Association) @ 47428810; e-mail: iam @datamarkets.com.ar Red Argentina de Alojamiento Para Jovenes (Argentine Youth Hostel Association), Florida 835 @ 45118712/23 fax 43120089; e-mail: [email protected]

C Accommodation

Buenos Aires is a huge city and hotels are scattered over a wide area. The biggest concentration is in the “tourist belt” around Calle Florida and Avenida Corrientes, and also near Constitucion and Once stations. To make selecting a hotel easier, hotel listings are shown under the listing for each barrio. Most of the

Restaurant Taberna Baska Restaurant Lo Prete Restaurant Maraxe Restaurant El Jabalí Restaurant Laurak-Bat Restaurant Basque Francais Restaurant Swedish Club Restaurant Club Español Restaurant El Imparcial Restaurant Hispano

5 Entertainment 3 13 14 15 21 22

Restaurant Cemento Restaurant La Trastienda Restaurant Michelangelo Restaurant La Ventana Restaurant El Querandí Restaurant El Goce Pagano 35 Café Tortoni

6 Airline offices 6

Líneas Aéreas del Estado (L.A.D.E.)

48

9 Sights

9 Museo Histórico del Traje 16 Basílica Menor de Nuestra Sra. del Rosario and Convento Sto Domingo 19 Museo Nacional del Grabado 24 Iglesia San Ignacio de Loyola

0 Services

20 St. Andrew’s Presbyterian church

- Subte stations A3 A4 C5 C6 C7 C8 E2 E3 E4

Piedras station Lima station Ave. de Mayo station Moreno station Independencia station San Juan station Belgrano station Independencia station San José station

BUENOS AIRES CITY MAP 4 MONSERRAT AND CONSTITUCIÓN

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when booking in. Tipping is expected in the larger hotels; 8–10% of the bill is about right. Avoid hotels which have a red or green light displayed outside; they are “Albergues Transitorios”, a euphemism for “brothels”.

up-market hotels are in the downtown barrios of Recoleta, Monserrat, and San Nicolás. Moderately priced accommodation can be found in the barrios of Constitución and San Telmo. When breakfast is included, it is indicated under services, but always inquire

49

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL Key to Map 5 A B C D E

Catedral Metropolitana Casa de Gobierno Palacio Municipal Correo Central Telecom Argentina and Telefónica de Argentina

3 Accommodation 7 8 11 13 22 23 24 28 55 57 66 72 74 76 83 85 91 94 95 100 102 103 105 111 114 115 116

Hotel City Hotel Nogaró Hospedaje Avenida Hotel Turista Hotel Du Helder Hotel Gran Hotel San Carlos Hospedaje Suipacha Palace Hotel Continental Hotel Gran Eibar Hotel Liberty Hotel Plaza Roma Hotel Gran King Hotel King’s Hotel El Cabildo Hotel Tucumán Palace Hotel Lafayette Hotel Grand Hotel Hotel Camino Real Hospedaje O’Rei Hotel Concorde Hotel Italia Romanelli Hotel Regidor Hotel Claridge Hotel Phoenix Hotel Lancaster Hotel Tres Sargentos Hotel San Antonio

4 Eating out

12 Restaurant Pedemonte 18 Restaurant La Lechería 19 Restaurant La Veda and Restaurant Cámara de las Sociedades Anónimas 27 Restaurant Grannix 54 Restaurant Blab 58 Restaurant Clark’s II 59 Restaurant Yapeyú 60 Fast food Pumpernic 67 Restaurant El Recodo 69 Restaurant London Grill 73 Cafetería Richmond 75 Restaurant Los Inmortales 79 Fast food Lecherísima 84 Restaurant Brizzi 89 Restaurant Vía Verde 90 Restaurant ABC 93 Restaurant Oriente and Restaurant El Mundo 96 Restaurant El Palacio de la Papa Frita

General Information

99 Restaurant El Figón de la Bonilla 110 Cafetería La Barra 113 Restaurant Catalinas

5 Entertainment

25 Restaurant Columbus 31 Restaurant Chiquín 32 Restaurant Atenas en Oniro 65 Luna Park Stadium 77 Restaurant Corrientes Angosta 104 Restaurant Maison Dorée 117 Restaurant Bárbaro

6 Airline offices

51 DINAR Líneas Aéreas 81 Aerolineas Argentinas 82 Helicopter Corporation S.A. 86 LAER Líneas Aéreas de Entre Ríos

2 3 4 6 10 34 35 38 45 52 97 98

Museo Etnográfico Juan B. Ambrosetti Basilica and Convento de San Francisco Museo de la Ciudad Iglesia San Ignacio and Manzana de las Luces Museo Histórico del Cabildo Museo Numismatico “Arturo Jauretche” Basilica de La Merced Museo Histórico y Numismatico del Banco de la Nación Argentina Bolsa de Comercio Museo Nacional Mitre Buque Museo Fragata Presidente Sarmiento Buque Museo Corbeta A.R.A. Uruguay

0 Services

Vida Silvestre 7 Tour operators and car 514 Fundación Consulate of Israel and rentals Consulate of Netherlands 20 61 63 92 101 109

Turar Buenos Aires Vision Nova Terra S.A. Cacciola Viajes y Turismo Flyer Viajes Feeling Turismo

$

Money exchange

15 16 17 21 26 36 39 40 43 44 48 49 50 70 87 88

Banco de la Nación Deutsche Bank Citibank First National Bank of Boston Exprinter Cambio Baires and Cambio Mercurio Cambio Velox Royal Bank of Canada Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires Bank of America Cambio Casa Piano and Cambio Baupesa Cambios Norte Cambio America and Cambio Intercam SA Cambio Vaccaro Cambio Puente Hnos Cambio Columbus

9 Sights 1

Convento de Santo Domingo and Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Rosario

50

29 Iglesia Evangélica Alemana 33 St. John’s Anglican Cathedral 46 Librería Goethe 53 Argentine Golf Association 56 Librería El Ateneo 68 Goethe Institut 71 Consulate of Bolivia 78 Laboclick 80 Consulate of Japan 106 Le Lab 107 Yacht Club Argentino 108 Seacat terminal 112 Librería Leonardo

B Tourist information 30 Casa de Tucumán 41 Casa de Santiago del Estero 42 Casa de Neuquén 47 Casa de Corrientes 62 Casa de La Pampa 64 Casa de Salta

- Subte stations B1 B2 C4 A1 A2 A3 E1 D1

L.N. Alem station Florida station Diagonal Norte station Plaza de Mayo station Perú station Piedras station Bolívar station Catedral station

BUENOS AIRES CITY Joins map 4 Monserrat and Constitución

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CAPITAL 5 SAN NICOLÁS AND PUERTO MADERO

51

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL Key to Map 6 G

Mercado del Congreso

3 Accommodation 5 6 8 9 13 14 15 16 17 21 22 23 24 26 27 28 29 30 32 34 35 36 37 39 40 41 43 45 46 47 52 62 65 68 71 75 88

Hotel Solís Palace Hotel Cevallos Palace Hotel Chile Hotel Avenida Petit Hotel Marbella Hotel Nuevo Hotel Mundial Hotel Gran Vedra Hotel Napoleon Hospedaje Roma Hotel Gran Hotel de la Paix Hospedaje Europa Hospedaje Sportman Hotel Mar del Plata Hospedaje Lourdes Hospedaje Oriental Hotel Majestic Hospedaje Orense Hospedaje Mediterráneo Hotel Savoy Hotel El Molino Hotel Ayamitre Hotel Salles Hotel Bristol Hospedaje Pirámides Hotel Cardton Hotel Americano Hotel Callao Hospedaje Gran Sarmiento Hospedaje Gran Real Hotel Lyon Hotel República Hotel Milán Hotel Normandie Hotel Bauen Hotel Sarmiento Palace Hotel Columbia Palace Hospedaje Orleans

4 Eating out 1 2 3 7

Restaurant Centro Asturiano Restaurant La Cabaña Restaurant Yuki Restaurant Nihonbashi

11 20 25 31 44 48 53 56 57 59 70 73 77 83 87 89 91 92 94

Restaurant Villa Rosa Restaurant Quorum Confitería El Molino Restaurant Prosciutto Restaurant Vegetariano Restaurant Casa de Corea Restaurant Arturito Restaurant La Churrasquita Restaurant Guerrín Restaurant Pippo’s Restaurant El Toboso Restaurant Edelweiss Restaurant Liberarte and Restaurant La Paz Restaurant Manantial Restaurant Casa China Restaurant La Robla Restaurant Lotos Restaurant La Esquina de las Flores Restaurant La Porcherie

5 Entertainment

10 Restaurant Ávila Bar 33 Restaurant Nuevo Salón La Argentina 55 Restaurant Los Teatros de Buenos Aires 60 Centro Cultural General San Martín 64 Restaurant La Casa de Luis Gardel 69 Restaurant Boulevard 72 Centro Cultural Ricardo Rojas 76 Restaurant Foro Ghandi 78 Teatro Presidente Alvear 93 Restaurant Clásica y Moderna

6 Airline offices

85 S.A.P.S.E. Líneas Aéreas

7 Tour operators and car rental 50 Nova Terra 74 Buenos Aires Tur

18 19 58 66 80 81 82 86

Kilometre Zero Palacio del Congreso Museo de Arte Moderno Fundación Banco Patricios Obelisco Book stalls Palacio de la Justicia Museo de Arte Lirico e Instrumentos Musicales del Teatro Colón 90 Museo de Patrimonio Histórico de Aguas Argentinas 95 Palacio Pizzurno

0 Services 4

Policia Federal

B Tourist information 12 38 42 49 51 54 61 63 67 79 84

Casa de Formosa Casa del Chubut Casa de Buenos Aires Casa de La Pampa Casa de Salta Casa de San Juan Dirección de Turismo de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires Casa de Santa Fe Casa del Chaco and Casa de Córdoba Casa de Mendoza Casa de Río Negro

- Subte stations A4 A5 A6 A7 A8 A9 B3 B4 B5 B6 C4 D2 D3 D4

Lima station Sáenz Peña station Congreso station Pasco station Alberti station Plaza Miserere station Carlos Pellegrini station Uruguay station Callao station Pasteur station Diagonal Norte station 9 de Julio station Tribunales station Callao station

E Eating out

In the higher bracket hotels tax is added to the charges; at cheaper hotels and residenciales usually no tax is added. If you intend to stay longer than a week or two, renting an apartment may be a better choice. Check the tourist office for details.

General Information

9 Sights

Cafeterías, bars, and choperías are good for quick, inexpensive meals, but gourmets are also well catered for in Buenos Aires. One speciality worth trying is a meat dish called a parrilla. Check the Buenos Aires Herald for information about places that are currently in favor. The Herald, an English-language newspaper, is available at major hotels and airports, and

52

BUENOS AIRES CITY M IS

MAP 6 BALVANERA , MONSERRAT AND SAN NICOLAS

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53

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL Key to Map 7 T

Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 5 6 7 12 13 15 21 23 27 30 31 46 50 51 58 62 64 65 66 67 68 78 80 82 86 90 92 99 101 103 105 114 115 116

Hotel Esmeralda Palace Hotel Rochester Hotel Regis Hotel Gran Colón Hotel Crowne Plaza Panamericano Hotel Carsson Hotel Libertador Kempinski Hotel Maipú Hotel Petit Goya Hotel Waldorf Hotel Gran Orly Hotel Presidente Hotel Principado Hotel Promenade Hotel Gran Dorá Apart Hotel Aspen Suites Hotel Gran Buenos Aires Hotel Aspen Towers Hotel El Conquistador Hotel Regente Palace Hotel Bisonte Hotel Central Córdoba Hotel Marriott Plaza Hotel Sheltown Hotel Crillon Hotel de las Américas Hotel Sheraton Buenos Aires Hotel Embajador Hotel Carlton Hospedaje Versalles Hospedaje Central Argentina Hotel Park Hyatt Buenos Aires Park Plaza Hotel Hotel Caesar Park Buenos Aires

4 Eating out 1

Restaurant El Jardín, Suipacha 429 near Corrientes and Restaurant La Rural and Restaurant Chino 2 Pizza Hut 4 Restaurant El Palacio de la Papa Frita and McDonalds 8 Restaurant La Casona del Nonno 9 Restaurant La Huerta II 10 Fast food Pumpernic

General Information

16 26 29 33 35 40 42 45 52 54 57 59 61 63 70 72 73 76 87 91 93 100 106 113

Restaurant Nueva Era Restaurant Cantina Asia Restaurant Rocinante Cafetería Florida Garden Restaurant ABC Restaurant El Quebracho Restaurant Yin Yang Restaurant La Chacra Restaurant Friday’s Restaurant Downtown Matías Restaurant Tasca Tancat Restaurant Esqueles Restaurant Chung King Restaurant Frontera 34 Restaurant Los Inmortales Restaurant Dora Restaurant Blue Oyster Restaurant El Salmón II Restaurant Los Chilenos Restaurant Piola Restaurant Las Nazarenas Restaurant Bengal Restaurant Dolli Restaurant Jan Toki

5 Entertainment 11 18 22 44 48 49 53 69 75 77

Restaurant La Estancia Teatro Colón Restaurant Memorabilia Restaurant King’s Club Teatro Nacional Cervantes Restaurant D. Gala Restaurant Fillo Restaurant Caño 14 Restaurant Druid Inn Restaurant Hostería del Caballito Blanco 98 Restaurant Karim Club 104 Restaurant Fellini

6 Airline offices

71 Austral Líneas Aéreas 111 CATA Línea Aérea

7 Tour operators and car rental 3 17 19 20 25 34

Interlagos Gador Viajes Aristarain Viajes Turismo Tastil Interplanet City Service Travel Agency 39 Saltur 41 Turismo Estrella Cóndor and Aliscafos Buquebus

54

47 Localiza Rent a Car 60 Lihué Expeditions 74 Autorentas del Atlántico Hertz 79 Dollar Rent A Car 83 Infuetur 94 Budget Rent-a-Car 107 Historical Tours 112 Avis Rent-a-Car

9 Sights

84 Museo de Armas 108 Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano “Isaac Fernández Blanco” 118 Torre de los Ingleses

0 Services

14 Le Lab Fotos 28 Librería Hachette 32 Red Argentina de Alojamiento Para Jovenes (Argentine Youth Hostel Association) 36 Ferrytur 37 Santa Marguerita Golf Club 38 Aliscafos Puente Fluvial 56 Consulate of South Africa 85 Empresa Manuel Tienda León 88 Consulate of Italy 89 Empresa San Martín 102 Consulate of Austria 109 Consulate of Brazil 110 Consulate of France 117 Patio Bullrich 119 Estación Retiro

B Tourist information

24 Casa de La Rioja 43 Casa de Entre Ríos 81 Administración de Parques Nacionales 95 Dirección Nacional de Turismo 96 Casa de Santa Cruz 97 Casa de Tierra del Fuego, Casa de Jujuy and Casa de Misiones

- Subte stations

C1 Retiro station C2 San Martín station C3 Lavalle station

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MAP 7 RETIRO

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL from the tourist kiosks on Calle Florida. Away from the city center, good restaurants can be found on the Costanera Norte (which specializes in parrillas) and in the La Boca district (which specializes in Italian cuisine). In the better restaurants dinner is served from 21:00 until the early hours of the morning. The restaurants at Retiro and Constitución railroad stations are open 24 hours. Most Subte stations also have cafeterias. Breakfast in a confitería costs $5.00, lunch $10.00. Eating places are listed under individual barrios.

music is easy to listen to: noise- producing instruments like drums are kept to a minimum if not completely avoided. Buenos Aires has tango venues in all barrios, most of them in the inner suburbs of Recoleta, Monserrat, San Nicolás, and San Telmo. Attendance charges vary from $7.50 to $55.00. For those intent on mastering the art of the tango there are several venues: Academia de Tango next to Tortoni’s in Avenida de Mayo and the Universidad de Buenos Aires has beginners classes — inquire at the tourist information where venues are held, as the list changes. See also page 40.

n Entertainment

Performing arts Theater is very popular in Buenos Aires, and about 20 commercial theaters put on productions all year round. There are also many amateur theater companies. Book early for concerts, ballet, and opera. • Luna Park Stadium: Bouchard 465, San Nicolás. Pop and jazz concerts are held here • Teatro Colón, Libertad 621, San Nicolás. The opera season at the Teatro Colón (April to early December) is without doubt the finest in Latin America • Teatro Nacional Cervantes, Libertad 815, Retiro. As the name implies, it features many perfomances of classical Spanish works • Teatro Presidente Alvear, Avenida Corrientes 1659, S an Nicolás; has free concerts Tuesday afternoons, usually the Orchestra de Tango de Buenos Aires

Avenida Corrientes is the place to go for a night out; it is lined with dozens of restaurants, cafés, nightclubs, and theaters. Close by is Calle Lavalle; here, and in streets nearby, are numerous cinemas and good restaurants. Calle Lavalle is a pedestrian mall. Entertainment is listed under individual barrios. Cinemas Movie tickets are usually bought at ticket offices — so-called carteleras — most of them located in or around Avenida Corrientes. The choice of films is world-class. Films are shown with Spanish subtitles, but dubbing is being used with increasing frequency. Tango clubs Buenos Aires is the home of the tango. It was Carlos Gardel who made the tango famous in the early part of the twentieth century — and the tango made Carlos Gardel famous, even immortal. Tango

Key to Map 8

3 Accommodation 1 2 3 8

Hotel Hispano Argentino Hospedaje Bahía Hospedaje San Agustín Hotel N’Ontué

4 Eating out 6

Restaurant Cantina Don Carlos 13 Restaurant Cantina Il Formaggio

5 Entertainment 9

Restaurant Al Galope

General Information

10 Restaurant La Casa de Carlos Gardel

7 Tour operators

16 Comarcas Viajes y Turismo, Laprida 1380 Barrio Recoleta

9 Sights 5 7

Museo Municipal del Cine Pablo C. Ducros Hicken Mercado de Abasto

0 Services

4 Estación Once 12 Facultad de Economia

56

14 Facultad de Medicina

B Tourist information 11 Casa de Catamarca 15 Casa de San Luis

- Subte stations A9 B6 B7 B8 D5

Estación Plaza Miserere Estación Pasteur Estación Pueyrredón Estación Carlos Gardel Estación Facultad de Medicina D6 Estación Pueyrredón

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57

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL •

I Post and telegraph Post The Central Post Office, “Correo Argentino”, is at Sarmiento 151, San Nicolás. Open Mon–Sat 08:00–22:00. International telegrams have a 24-hour service. There is a small charge for poste restante letters. Parcels over 1 kg must be sent from the international parcels post office, Correo Postal Internacional in Antártida Argentina, near Retiro station, which is open Mon–Fri 12:30–17:00. Each post office provides a fax service. Telephones Argentina has two telephone companies: Telecom Argentina and Telefónica de Argentina. The country (and the city of Buenos Aires) is divided between them. Public telephones are usually in good working order; instead of coins, tokens (cospeles) are used; there are different tokens for local calls and long-distance calls. For overseas calls dial 00 and then the country code. Overseas calls are a lot cheaper from telephone offices — locutorios — than from hotels, although they do take longer.

Key to Map 9 A H

Iglesia Nuestra Señora del Pilar Hospital Rivadavia

3 Accommodation 6 9 11 15 16 24 33 40 42 46

Hotel Alfa Hotel Wilton Palace Hotel Prince Hotel Ayacucho Palace Hospedaje Lion D’Or Hotel Guido Palace Apart Hotel Etoile Hotel Caesar Park Hotel Hotel Alvear Palace Hotel Plaza Francia

4 Eating out 5 8 10 12 13 14 18 19 20

Restaurant Romanaccio Restaurant Los Inmortales Restaurant Cereus Restaurant Teatriz Restaurant French Bistro Restaurant Pizza Banana Restaurant Rodi Restaurant La Gomería Restaurant Mora X

General Information

•

Telefónica de Argentina, Corrientes 707 corner of Maipú, San Nicolás. Open 24 hours every day Telecom Argentina, Palacio de Correos, Sarmiento 189 and also at Florida 1, both in San Nicolás

L Financial

Banks charge about 5% commission on travelers’ checks. Exchange houses (“Casas de Cambio”) are open daily 08:30–16:30, and some also open on Saturdays 09:00–12:00. Most of the exchange houses are on Corrientes and San Martín. The major banks have ATMs in their city branches. I recommend that you change money at the Banco Provincia de Buenos Aires and Banco Ciudad de Buenos Aires; they are required by law to exchange US$1 for 1 peso and charge only a minimal fee. Banco Ciudad de Buenos Aires is open Mon–Fri 10:00–17:00. Other banks are open weekdays 10:00–15:00. Note: Do not change money with street vendors. Banks in San Nicolás • Banco de la Nación, Plaza de Mayo. Good rates, but only for Citicorp checks

25 Restaurant Au Bec Fin 27 Restaurant Harper’s and Restaurant Clark’s 31 Restaurant José Luis and Restaurant La Rueda 32 Restaurant Lola 34 Restaurant La Tasca de Germán 39 Cafetería Café de la Paz 43 Restaurant Pizza Cero 45 Restaurant El Sanjuanino

5 Entertainment

4 Restaurant Contramano 26 Restaurant Sahara Continent and Restaurant Henry J. Bean’s 28 Restaurant Hippopotamus 30 Restaurant Shampoo 35 Restaurant Café Victoria 36 Centro Cultural Recoleta 41 Restaurant Africa

9 Sights

21 Museo Roca de Investigaciones Históricas

58

29 Cementerio de la Recoleta 38 Biblioteca Nacional 47 Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

0 Services 2 3 17 22 23 37 44 48

Facultad de Economía Facultad de Medicina Consulate of Uruguay Consulate of Paraguay Consulate of Spain Consulate of Great Britain Patio Bullrich Facultad de Derecho

B Tourist information 1 7

Casa de Catamarca Casa de San Luis

- Subte stations

D4 Callao station D5 Facultad de Medicina station D6 Pueyrredón station D7 Agüero station

BUENOS AIRES CITY Joins map 8 Balvanera and Recoleta

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MAP 9 RECOLETA

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL Key to Map 10 4 Eating out 2 3

Restaurant Río Rhin Norte Restaurant La Casona de Tía Teresa 4 Restaurant La Zi Teresa di Napoli 5 Restaurant Cero Pizza 8 Restaurant Le Trianon 11 Cafetería Round Point

9 Sights 9

Museo Nacional de Arte Decoration and Museo de Arte Oriental 11 Museo de Motives Populares Argentinos José Hernández 12 Museo del Instituto Sanmartiniano

•

1 6 7

Alto Palermo Shopping Consulate of Peru Automovil Club Argentino (A.C.A.) 10 Paseo Alcorta Shopping

- Subte stations

D8 Agüero station D9 Bulnes station D10 Scalabrini Ortiz station

M Services and facilities

Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires, Sarmiento 630, San Nicolás. Agent for Visa card. You can get a cash advance at any branch of this bank upon presentation of your Visa card • Bank of America, Maipú 267. Exchanges only Bank of America travelers’ checks • Citibank, Mitre 502 @ 43314031 • Deutsche Bank, Mitre 402. @ 43432541 Exchange open 10:00–13:00 & • First National Bank of Boston, Florida 99. Will exchange travelers’ checks for dollars for a small commission • Royal Bank of Canada, Florida 202 @ 43714583 Exchange houses in San Nicolás • Cambio America, San Martín 312 @ 43944838 • Cambio Baires, San Martín 215 @ 43945851 • Cambio Baupesa, San Martín 363 @ 43255833 • Cambio Calcos, Tucumán 1000 @ 43824442/43943040 • Cambio Intercam SA, San Martín 318 @ 43257173 • Cambio Mercurio, San Martín 233 @ 43944854 • Cambio Casa Piano, San Martín 347 @ 43942550. Travelers’ checks & • Cambio Puente Hnos, Lavalle 445 @ 4320409 • Cambio Velox, San Martín 298 @ 43940115 • Cambios Norte, Sarmiento 525 @ 43942628. Also travelers’ checks • Cambio Columbus, San Martín 529 @ 43935523 • Exprinter, Suipacha 1107 @ 43313050

General Information

0 Services

Medical services • British hospital, Perdriel 74, Barracas @ 43041081 • French hospital, Rioja 951, Balvanera @ 48662546 • German hospital, Pueyrredón 1650, Palermo @ 48211700 • Italian hospital, Gascón 450, Almagro @ 49590200

N Clubs

• •

Centro Cultural General San Martín, Sarmiento 1551, San Nicolás. Free concerts and plays German: Goethe Institut, Corrientes 327, San Nicolás @ 43135930. Movies, library, and reading room (with the latest German newspapers), concerts, theater, exhibitions, and restaurant

O Churches

•

•

• • •

60

Anglican: St. John’s Cathedral, 25 de Mayo 282, San Nicolás. Half of the cost of building this church was met by the British government. It was consecrated in 1831. There is a Sunday service at 10:00 Armenian: Iglesia Apostólica Armenia Basílica San Gregorio El Iluminador, Acevedo 1352, Villa Crespo German Evangelical Church: Iglesia Evangélica Alemana, Esmeralda 162, San Nicolás @ 4454326 Presbyterian: St. Andrew’s, Belgrano 579, Monserrat Russian Orthodox: Iglesia Ortodoxa Rusa, Brasil 315, San Telmo

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MAP 10 RECOLETA AND PALERMO

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL Key to Map 11

3 Accommodation 4 5 6

Hotel Palermo Hotel Panamé Apart Hotel Torre Cristóforo Colombo

4 Eating out 8 9

Restaurant La Catedra Restaurant Angelo

9 Sights 1

Museo Nacional del Jardín Botánico 2 The Jardín Zoológico 3 Sociedad Rural Argentina (Show grounds) 10 Rosedal 11 Jardín Japonés 12 Planetario

•

P Visas, passports Authorities • Migraciones, Antártida Argentina 1365, Retiro • Policia Federal, Central police station, Moreno 1550, Monserrat @ 43818041 Consulates and embassies Gauging by the number of foreign diplomatic missions, Palermo is the preferred location for them. • Australia: Villanueva 1400, Palermo @ 47776580 fax 48054016. Open Mon–Thurs 08:30–12:30 • Austria: Cerrito 1290, piso 5, Retiro @ 48143669/48161546. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–12:00 • Bolivia: Corrientes 545, San Nicolás @ 43946042. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–14:00 • Brazil: Pellegrini 1363, 5th floor, Retiro @ 43945260/64/70. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–18:00 • Canada: Tagle 2828, Palermo @ 48053032, fax 48061209. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–12:00 • Chile: Tagle 2762, Palermo @ 48027020, fax 48045927. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–14:00 • France: Cerrito 1399, Retiro @ 48192930 fax 43931235. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–12:00 • Germany: Villanueva 1055, Palermo @ 47713514 fax 47782550. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–12:00 • Great Britain: Dr. L. Agote 2412, Palermo @ 48037070 • Israel: Avenida de Mayo 701, Monserrat @ 43421433. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–11:00 • Italy: M.T. de Alvear 1149, Retiro @ 48166136. Open Mon–Fri 08:30–11:30. Closed Thurs

General Information

• • • • • • •

0 Services 7

U.S.A. Consulate

- Subte stations

D10 Canning station D11 Plaza Italia station D12 Palermo station

Japan: Bouchard 547, San Nicolás @ 43188200. Mon–Fri 10:00–12:00 and 15:00–17:00 Netherlands: Avenida de Mayo 701, Monserrat @ 43344000. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–12:30 Paraguay: Las Heras 2545, Palermo @ 48023826. Open Mon–Fri 09:30–13:00 Peru: Avenida del Libertador 1720, Barrio Palermo @ 48022000. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–14:00 South Africa: M.T. de Alvear 590, 7th floor, Retiro @ 43119672. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–11:00 Spain: Guido 1760, Recoleta @ 4811070. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–14:00 Uruguay: Las Heras 1907, Palermo @ 48073031. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–18:00 U.S.A.: Colombia 4300, Palermo @ 47774533. Open Mon–Fri 08:15–11:00

S Transport The Subte The best and fastest way to travel in the city is on Subte (for Subterraneo), the underground rail system. It is well sign-posted and connects with all the main intercity stations. Routes and connections are displayed inside the carriages. Tokens ($0.50) are used instead of tickets, and a single token entitles you to use any route or combination of routes. Línea “C” (from Retiro station to Constitución station) crosses the city center and connects with all other branch lines (at Calle Pellegrini station with Línea “B” and “D”, at Avenida de Mayo with Línea “A”) and at Independencia with Línea “E”. Five lines link outer parts of the city to the center. Stations are closed between 01:30 and 05:00. Backpacks and luggage are al-

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General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL R Air services from Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires has two airports: Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini and Aeroparque Jorge Newbery. The international airport is in Ezeiza some 50 km east of the city; best reached via Autopista Dellepiane which starts on the corner of Avenida Ingeniero Hugo near Avenida San Juan as Autopista 25 de Mayo. Aeroparque Jorge Newbery is located on Avenida Rafael Obligado about 20 minutes from the city center. It services domestic flights as well as flights to bordering nations — “paises limítrofes” such as Montevideo and some flights to Asunción There is a departure tax of $15.00 for international flights. On departure abroad you can claim a refund of tax paid on purchases over $200.00. Bus services to airports Services to Aeroparque Jorge Newbery and Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini • Empresa Manuel Tienda León, Santa Fe 790, Retiro @ 43150489 • Empresa San Martín, Avenida Santa Fe 1158, Recoleta @ 43144747. Fares: $15.00; bus services run from 04:00–21:00 every half hour. From the downtown district to Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini is a one-hour trip Services to Aeroparque Jorge Newbery • Municipal bus 45 goes to the Aeroparque; fare $1.50 • Taxi to Aeroparque: $8.00 Services to Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini • Municipal buses 51 and 86 run the 11 2-hour trip to Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini from Plaza de Mayo (marked “Aeropuerto”) via Avenida Rivadavia; fare $5.00 • Taxi to Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini airport costs $45.00–$55.00. All international flights land and depart here except for a few flights to Montevideo International carriers • Aerolineas Argentinas (AA), Bouchard 547, San Nicolás @ 43173000. This is the national carrier • Air France, Paraguay 610, 4th floor @ 43174700 • Alitalia Líneas Aéreas Italianas, Suipacha 1111 @ 43109999 • American Airlines, Suipacha 1111, 28th floor @ 43181100 and Ave. Santa Fe 881 @ 43181111 • Avianca, C. Pellegrini 1163, 4th floor @ 43945990 • Canadian Airline, Ave. Córdoba 656 @ 43273640 • Cathay Pacific Airways, Maipú 726 @ 43223179 • Iberia Líneas Aéreas de España SA, Pellegrini 1163 @ 43272739 • Japan Airlines, Ave. Córdoba 836 @ 43931896 • LAN Chile Sa, Florida 954 @ 43162222 (Reservations) • Lloyd Aéreo Boliviano, C. Pellegrini 137/141 @ 42371961 • Lufthansa Líneas Aéreas Alemanas, M.T. De Alvear 590, 6th floor @ 43190600 • Mexicana de Aviación, H. Yrigoyen 636 @ 43456683 • Qantas Airways Limited, Ave. Córdoba 673 @ 43128593 • Sabena Belgian Airlines, Maipú 726 @ 43223179 • SAS Líneas Aéreas Escandinavas, Tacuarí 147 @ 43342423/43275008 • Singapore Airlines, Ave. Corrientes 676 @ 43252237 • South African Airways, Ave. Santa Fe 794 3rd floor @ 43115825 • Transbrasil Líneas Aéreas, Florida 782 @ 43945431 • United Airlines, Ave. Madero 900 @ 43160777 • Varig SA, Pasaje Carabelas 344 @ 43299200

General Information

64

BUENOS AIRES CITY Air services from Buenos Aires — continued Domestic carriers • Austral Líneas Aéreas (AU), Avenida L.N. Alem 1134, Retiro @ 43407800 • CATA Línea Aérea, Cerrito 1320, 3rd floor, Retiro @ 48123390 • DINAR Líneas Aéreas S.A., San Martín 320 8th floor, San Nicolás @ 43253576 fax 43253899 • Kaikén, Ave. Maipú 580 @ 43349510. Flights to Patagonian destinations • LAER Líneas Aéreas de Entre Ríos, Lavalle 437, 2nd floor, San Nicolás @ 43945624 • Líneas Aéreas del Estado (L.A.D.E.) — see separate listing on page 66 • Líneas Aéreas Privadas Argentinas (LAPA), Avenida Santa Fe 1970, Retiro @ 48110041/6 • S.A.P.S.E. Líneas Aéreas, Tucumán 1920, Balvanera @ 43717066 • Southern Wings Líneas Aéreas, Florida 868 @ 43122811; e-mail: [email protected] Taxis aéreos, charter planes, and helicopters • Aeromaster, Aeroparque Jorge Newbery @ 47771233 • American Jet @ 43152349 • Helicopter Corporation S.A. Avenida L.N. Alem 592, 13th floor, San Nicolás @ 43120042 fax 43126430 • Rent a Plane S.A., Aeroparque Jorge Newbery (1425) @ 47726573 Internal air services In the following list AR stands for Aerolineas Argenias and AU for Austral Líneas Aéreas. • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fares Bahía Blanca Bariloche $100–220 Catamarca Comodoro Rivadavia $90–180 Córdoba $60–140 Corrientes $70–150 Esquel Formosa $70–150 Iguazú $90–220 Jujuy $100–230 La Rioja Mar del Plata $42–80 Mendoza $65–180 Neuquén $60–205 Paso de los Libres $90.00 Posadas $70–170 Resistencia $70–150 Río Cuarto Río Gallegos $110–225 Río Grande Rosario $70–80 Salta $110–220 San Juan San Luis San Martín de los Andes San Rafael Santa Fe $80–130

Frequency 4 daily 4 daily 1 daily

Duration Airline 11 4 hrs AU and L.A.D.E. 21 4 hrs AR and L.A.D.E. 3 hrs AU

3 daily 13 daily 1–2 daily 4 weekly 1 daily 4 daily 1–2 daily 1 daily 6 daily 12 daily 4 daily

3 hrs 11 2 hrs 11 4 hrs 31 4 hrs 11 2 hrs 2 hrs 23 4 hrs 2 hrs 1 hour 2 hrs 2 hrs

AU and L.A.D.E. AU AU AU AU AR AU AR AU, AR AU, AR AU

2 daily 2 daily 1 daily 5 daily 3 daily 6 daily 2 daily 3 daily 1 daily 7 weekly 5 weekly 1–4 daily

11 2 hrs 11 4 hrs 13 4 hrs 5 hrs 31 4 hrs 1 hour 2 hrs 3 hrs 21 2 hrs 2 hrs 11 2 hrs 1 hour

LAER AU, LAPA AU AU AU AR AU AU AR AU AR AU AU AU AR

65

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL Air services from Buenos Aires — continued • • • • • •

Santa Rosa Santiago del Estero Trelew $80–180 Tucumán $80–240 Ushuaia $160–260 Viedma

1–2 daily 1 daily 2–3 daily 5 daily 4 daily 1 daily

2 hrs 11 2 hrs 2 hrs 2 hrs 31 2 hrs 21 4 hrs

AU AU AR AR AR AU

R L.A.D.E. air services

L.A.D.E., Perú 714, Monserrat @ 43617071 fax 43007373; Web site: www.lade.com.ar; e-mail: [email protected]. L.A.D.E. specializes in flights to Patagonia. They use small airplanes which can land on short airstrips in the Patagonian wilderness. Their fares are cheaper than Aerolineas Argentinas or Austral, but flights take longer. They are usually heavily booked, especially for flights in and out of Ushuaia and El Calafate. L.A.D.E. has offices in every town on their itinerary except Alto Río Senguer and Río Mayo. Below is a summary of their flights; detailed information can be obtained from their Web site. In addition most of their agencies have e-mail addresses which I have included under the respective towns. Their main flight base is in Comodoro Rivadavia. Services from Aeroparque Jorge Newbery • Bariloche via Mar del Plata, Bahía Blanca, Viedma, Neuquén, and Chapelco Bariloche; 1 weekly • Trelew via Mar del Plata, Bahía Blanca, Viedma, San Antonio Oeste, and Puerto Madryn; 1 weekly Services from Alto Río Senguer • Comodoro Rivadavia via Río Mayo; 1 weekly Air services Services from Bariloche • Buenos Aires (Aeroparque Jorge Newbery) via Chapelco, Neuquén, Viedma, Bahía Blanca, and Mar del Plata; 1 weekly • Comodoro Rivadavia via El Bolsón, El Maitén, and Esquel; 1 weekly • Comodoro Rivadavia via Esquel, Puerto Madryn, and Trelew; 1 weekly Services from Mar del Plata • Comodoro Rivadavia via Viedma, Neuquén, Bariloche, Esquel, Puerto Madryn, and Trelew; 1 weekly Services from Comodoro Rivadavia • Alto Río Senguer via Río Mayo; 1 weekly • Bariloche via Esquel; 1 weekly • Bariloche via Trelew, Viedma, and Neuquén; 1 weekly • Mar del Plata via Trelew, Puerto Madryn, Esquel, Bariloche, Neuquén, and Viedma; 1 weekly • Río Gallegos via Puerto Deseado, San Julián, Gobernador Gregores, and Santa Cruz; 1 weekly • Ushuaia via Perito Moreno, Gobernador Gregores, Lago Argentino, Río Gallegos, and Río Grande; 1 weekly • Ushuaia via Perito Moreno, Gobernador Gregores, Río Gallegos, and Río Grande; 1 weekly Services from Lago Argentino • Río Gallegos via Río Turbío; 1 weekly

General Information

66

BUENOS AIRES CITY L.A.D.E. air services — continued Services from Río Gallegos • Comodoro Rivadavia via Santa Cruz, Gobernador Gregores, San Julián, and Puerto Deseado; 1 weekly • Comodoro Rivadavia via Lago Argentino, Gobernador Gregores, and Perito Moreno; 1 weekly Services from Trelew • Buenos Aires (Aeroparque Jorge Newbery) via Puerto Puerto Madryn, San Antonio Oeste, Viedma, Bahía Blanca, and Mar del Plata; 1 weekly Services from Ushuaia • Comodoro Rivadavia via Río Grande, Río Gallegos, Lago Argentino, Gobernador Gregores, and Perito Moreno; 1 weekly • Lago Argentino via Río Grande, Río Gallegos, and Río Turbio; 1 weekly Aeropuerto Ministro Pistarini at Ezeiza range between $45.00 and $55.00. At the bus terminal you can get taxi fare estimates. It helps if you know the barrio you are traveling to. Colectivos These small buses cover a very wide area and are clean, frequent, and very fast. The basic fare is about $0.50. When taking a bus, look for little signs in the driver’s window, as all bus numbers represent several routes. Bus 86 (marked “Aeropuerto”) to the international airport at Ezeiza can be caught on Rivadavia just above Lora Subte station. This is a cheap and convenient way to go to the international airport if you have little luggage. The term colectivo is interchangeable with micro-bus. Remises Remises are radio-controlled cabs with fixed fares within a certain radius.

lowed on trains. Rail maps and timetables can be bought from station platforms. Stations are indicated on maps by the symbol -.. • Línea “A” runs under Calle Rivadavia, from Plaza de Mayo up to Primera Junta. Change at Lima station for Línea “C” • Línea “B” runs from the central post office, in Avenida L N Alem, under Avenida Corrientes, to Federico Lacroze station. Change at Pellegrini station for Línea “C” • Línea “C” links Plaza Constitución with the Retiro station and provides connections with all the other lines • Línea “D” runs from Plaza de Mayo under Diagonal Norte, Córdoba, and Santa Fe to the Palermo district, and terminates at Olleros. Change at 9 de Julio station for Línea “C” • Línea “E” runs from Plaza de Mayo through to Avenida San Juan and terminates at Plaza de los Virreyes. Change at Independencia station for Línea “C” The Subte has been privatized and is now run by Metrovías; new carriages are gradually being introduced. Taxis Taxis are easily recognizable by their yellow and black colors. Fares are approximately $1.00 per flag-fall plus $1.00 per km, but meters are not always reliable. Traveling outside the city limits, and at night, is expensive. No tipping is required, but there is a charge for luggage. Taxi fares to the international

U Motoring Clubs Automóvil Club Argentino (A.C.A.), Libertador 1850, Palermo @ 48027061; e-mail: [email protected]. The A.C.A. provides a range of services to members upon presentation of their membership card: a travel document service, road charts (“Hojas de Ruta”, and maps, vacation guides, and camping information. Tourist guides are available for sale. The club has its own service stations and accommodation facilities, which are of four kinds: motels, hosterías, hotels, and unidades turísticas. Motel accommodation

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General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL S Buses from Buenos Aires

The Buenos Aires bus terminal, Ramos Mejía 1680 @ 43100700 near Antártida, is next to Retiro rail station. It is a 400 m walk from the subway (Subte Línea “C”) to the terminal. Facilities in the terminal include travel information, toilets, a restaurant, and a luggage office. All bus companies operating outside a radius of 200 km must use this terminal. A minor bus terminal functions on Plaza Miserere near Estación Once. Buses Talsa and Transporte Luján (also known as Línea 52) run 6 buses daily to Luján (fare $3.50); Empresa Río de la Plata runs 24 daily to La Plata (fare $2.50). Some bus companies denote their departure from Buenos Aires bus terminal simply as “Ramos Mejía”, the street where the main bus terminal is located. Long-distance bus companies operating from Ramos Mejía bus terminal • A1 Abel y Marcial García, Calle 10–3516, Villa Lynch @ (011) 47554496 ° Bahía Blanca via San Miguel del Monte, Las Flores, Cacheri, Azul, Chillar, Juárez, Gonzáles Cháves, Tres Arroyos, Coronel Dorrego, and Punta Alta ° Claromecó • A11 Autotransportes San Juan, @ 43139625 ° Córdoba via Venado Tuerto, Río Cuarto, and Villa General Belgrano ° San Juan via Villa Mercedes and San Luis • A23 Cacorba @ 43132651 ° Catamarca via Córdoba, Santiago del Estero, and Tucumán ° La Falda via Córdoba and Carlos Paz • A28 Central Argentino, local 47 @ 43151654/1868 • A33 T.A. Chevallier @ 43133297 ° Corrientes via Rosario, Santa Fe, La Paz, Esquina, and Goya ° Miramar (Buenos Aires Province) ° San Martín de los Andes via Mercedes, Bolívar, Salazar, Trenque Lauquen, Telen, General Acha, Santa Rosa, and Neuquén ° Tucumán via Venado Tuerto, La Carlota, Río Cuarto, Villa Dolores, Mina Clavero, Córdoba, and Santiago del Estero • A34 Chevallier Paraguaya, @ 43132349 ° Ciudad del Este via Asunción (Paraguay) • A37 Ciudad de Posadas • A55 El Cóndor @ 43131700 • A61 El Norte Bis @ 43151102 • A68 El Rápido Argentino, Avenida Mitre 268 (1870), Avellaneda @ 42019001; Retiro bus terminal @ 43152505 ° Santa Clara del Mar • A71 Central El Rápido/TATA, @ 43133836/3849 ° Corrientes via Rosario, Santa Fe, Paraná, La Paz, Esquina, and Goya ° Federal via Rosario del Tala, Nogoyá, Crespo, Gualeguay, Victoria, Diamante, and Villaguay ° Paso de los Libres via Gualeguaychú, Concepción del Uruguay, Colón, and Concordia ° Presidente Roque Sáenz Peña via Santiago del Estero, Charata, and Las Breñas ° Pocitos (Bolivian border) via Rosario, Rafaela, Añatuya, Quimilí, La Banda, Santiago del Estero, Monte Quemado, Orán, Tartagal • A73 El Santiagueño @ 43123602 • A75 El Serrano @ 43140591 ° Miramar via Mar del Plata • A76 El Sureño ° Tres Arroyos • A82 Empresa Antón, @ 43133078 ° Villa Gesell via Chascomús, Dolores, Maipú, Pinamar

General Information

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BUENOS AIRES CITY Buses from Buenos Aires — continued • • • • •

• •

• •

• •

• • • • • • • • •

A94 Empresa Gutiérrez @ 43122899 A97 Empresa Itatí, local 202 @ 43151654/1867. Services to Corrientes and east side of province Entre Ríos along Río Uruguay A99 Empresa Jocolí @ 43142248 A100 Empresa Kurtz ° Misiones via Entreríos and Corrientes Province A101 Empresa Liniers, @ 43130568/3642 ° Olavarría via Azul; 4 daily ° Santa Rosa (La Pampa Province) via La Plata, Lobos, Roque Pérez, Saldillo, 25 de Mayo, General Alvear, Tapalqué, Bolívar, and Carhué ($28.00; 8 hrs); 1 daily A109 Río de la Plata, @ 43133616 ° Pinamar via Santa Teresita, Mar de Ajó, San Clemente del Tuyú, General Madariaga, and Villa Gesell A121 Expreso Caraza, Ejercito de los Andes 1371 Lomas de Zamora @ 42415362/42420191 ° Tres Arroyos ° Neuquén via Azul; 1 daily A122 Expreso Córdoba–Mar del Plata A124 El Riojano ° Alta Gracia (11 hrs) via Rosario and Córdoba; 1 daily ° Catamarca (15 hrs) via Rosario, Córdoba, Jesús María, Dean Funes; 1 daily at 19:00 ° Chilecito (18 hrs) via Rosario, Córdoba, Villa Carlos Paz, Cosquín, La Falda, Cruz del Eje, Villa de Soto (13 hrs), Chamical, Patquia, and Vichigasta; 1 daily at 15:30 ° La Rioja (15 hrs) via Córdoba, Chamical, and Patquia; 1 daily at 20:00 ° Ascochinga via Córdoba and Río Ceballos (101 2 hrs); 1 daily at 23:00 ° Los Cocos via Córdoba, Villa Carlos Paz (111 2 hrs), Cosquín, La Falda, La Cumbre, and Cruz Chica; 5 daily A128 Expreso El Pingüino A130 Expreso Río Paraná @ 43132402/43150234 ° Tandil via Olavarría ° Azul ($15.00); 3 daily ° Asunción (Paraguay) via Posadas and Encarnación (Paraguay) A132 Expreso Singer @ 43152653 ° Puerto Iguazú via Curuzú Cuatía, Yapeyú, Santo Tomé, Apóstoles, Posadas, Oberá, San Ignacio, Puerto Rico, Montecarlo, El Dorado, and Cataratas A133 Expreso Tigre Iguazú @ 43133915/3937 A134 Expreso Uspallata @ 43141258 A135 Expreso Via Bariloche A137 Flecha Bus, local 305 @ 43152781/2. Services to Entre Ríos along RN 14 (Río Uruguay) A141 Empresa Godoy, La Brújula @ 43133167 ° Asunción (Paraguay) via Rosario, Santa Fe, Resistencia, Formosa, and Puerto Pilcomayo; with connections to Salta and Jujuy in Formosa A142 Horiansky A146 Italmar, Italia 1082, Burzaco @ (011) 42991706 ° Claromecó and Punta Desnudez A154 La Encarnaceña @ 43132393 ° Asunción via Posadas and Encarnación (Paraguay)

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General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL Buses from Buenos Aires — continued •

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

A155 La Estrella @ 43131700 ° Bahía Blanca via Santa Clara del Mar, Mar del Plata, Miramar, Necochea, Tres Arroyos, and Coronel Dorrego ° Claromecó ° Comodoro Rivadavia via La Plata, Azul, Olavarría, Laprida, Coronel Suárez, Coronel Pringles, Tres Arroyos, Coronel Dorrego, Monte Hermoso, Punta Alta, Bahía Blanca, Sierra Grande, San Antonio Oeste, Puerto Madryn, Trelw, and Rawson; with connections to Cipolletti, Neuquén, Bariloche, and San Martín de los Andes ° Tandil via San Miguel del Monte, Las Flores, and Rauch A157 La Internacional, @ 4313666 ° Asunción (Paraguay) via Rosario, Santa Fe, San Justo, Calchaquí, Reconquista, Las Toscas, Resistencia, Posadas, and Encarnación (Paraguay) A164 La Veloz del Norte @ 43152482 A170 Liparotti ° San Vicente via Ciudadela, San Martín, Villa Ballester, Boulogne, Villa Adelina, Olivos, and San Andrés A180 Micromar @ 43134107 ° Lobería via Mar del Plata, Balcarce, and Miramar A187 Nuestra Señora de la Asunción A190 Pluma Brasil @ 43133901 ° Río do Janeiro via Foz do Iguazú and Sao Paolo ° Curitiba (Brasil) via Uruguayana, Porto Alegre, Florianopolis, and Camboriu A191 T.A. Plusmar, C. Pellegrini 2959 (1878) Quilmes @ 42501261 fax 42001407 ° Tres Arroyos A193 Puerto Tirol A206 Empresa Sierras de Córdoba @ 43132771 ° Capilla del Monte via Rosario, Bell Ville, Villa María, and Córdoba A211 T.A.C. @ 43133632/43133627 ° Córdoba via Mercedes, Merlo, and Mina Clavero ° Santiago de Chile via San Luis and Mendoza A224 La Unión del Sud ° Tres Arroyos A233 Transportes Atlántida, Araoz 2026 @ 47710800 ° Luján; fast services via RN 7 and RN 8 ° Mar Chiquita A248 Turismo Patri, Avenida Rivadavia 11986 Ciudadela @ (01653) 44494 fax (01653) 44595 ° Mar del Plata A251 TUS @ 43123659 A262 El Valle, @ 43133749 ° Zapala via Cipolletti, Neuquén, Cutralcó, and General Roca A270 La Estrella del Chaco @ 43133078 ° Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña via Santa Fe and Resistencia A273 Crucero del Norte A299 ABLO and General Urquiza, local 30–33 @ 43132729/43132835/43132771 A301 Expreso Panamericano @ 43152745 A302 Don Otto @ 43132503 ° Río Gallegos via Viedma, Puerto Madryn and Trelew; with connections to Esquel and Bariloche

General Information

70

BUENOS AIRES CITY Buses from Buenos Aires — continued °

Comodoro Rivadavia via La Plata, Azul, Olavarría, Laprida, Coronel Suárez, Coronel Pringles, Tres Arroyos, Coronel Dorrego, Monte Hermoso, Punta Alta, Bahía Blanca, Sierra Grande, San Antonio Oeste, Puerto Madryn, Trelew, and Rawson; with connections to Cipolletti, Neuquén, Bariloche, and San Martín de los Andes • A303 La Puntual • A305 Costera Criolla @ 43132449/2503 ° Balcarce via Tandil and Ayacucho ° Capilla del Monte via Córdoba, Carlos Paz, Cosquín, La Falda, and La Cumbre ° Río Gallegos via Mar del Plata, Miramar, Necochea, Tres Arroyos, Coronel Dorrego, Bahía Blanca, Sierra Grande, San Antonio Oeste, Trelew, and Comodoro Rivadavia ° San Bernardo via Santa Teresita and Mar de Ajó ° Bahía Blanca via Las Flores, Gonzáles Cháves, Tres Arroyos, and Punta Alta ° Santa Clara del Mar ° Tandil via La Plata, Chascomús, Dolores, Maipú, Ayacucho, and Rauch • A306 Expreso Mar del Sur ° Bahía Blanca via San Miguel del Monte, Las Flores, Cacheri, Azul, Chillar, Juárez, Gonzáles Cháves, Tres Arroyos, Coronel Dorrego, and Punta Alta • A308 El Zorzal @ 4315870 ° Santa Rosa (La Pampa Province) via Carhué ( 41 4 hours); daily at 16:00 except Tues and Thurs • A309 Ñandú del Sur @ 43150010 ° Bahía Blanca via Carhué 2 daily; return 06:00, 11:55 • A311 T.A. Mercedes ° Bariloche via Balcarce and Neuquén Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fares Alta Gracia $35.00 Asunción (Paraguay) $95.00 Bahía Blanca $30.00 Bariloche $76.00

Frequency 3 daily

Caleta Olivia $85.00 Camboriú (Brazil) $90.00 Catamarca $50.00 Claromecó $35.20 Clorinda $65.80 Colón $20.00 Comodoro Rivadavia $82.00 Concepción del Uruguay $18.00 Concordia $23.00 Córdoba $30.00 Corrientes $38.00 Curitiba (Brazil) $95.00 El Bolsón $75.00 Esquel $95.00

3 weekly

3 daily 3 daily 6 daily

2 daily 3 daily

Duration Company 12 hrs A33, A299 21 hrs A34, A157, A187 10 hrs A155, A302, A303 23 hrs A33, A76, A135, A155, A211, A262, A303 32 hrs A128, A302

3 daily 7 daily

27 hrs Rápido Yguazú, Pluma 17 hrs A23, A33, A211 A146 A34, A157, A187 A71, A137

4 daily

24 hrs A128, A211, A302, A303

7 daily 7 daily 12 daily 8 daily

A137 6 hrs A71, A137 10 hrs A23, A33, A299 14 hrs A97, A112, A71, A33, A37, A193

2 daily 2 weekly 4 weekly

35 hrs Pluma, Rápido Yguazú 26 hrs A76, A311 28 hrs A76, A302

71

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL Buses from Buenos Aires — continued •

• • •

Florianópolis (Brazil) $85.00 Formosa $50.00 Foz do Iguaçu (Brazil) $60.00 Gualeguaychú $25.00 Jujuy $65.00 Junín de los Andes $80.00 La Plata $2.20 La Rioja $53.00 Lima (Peru) $160.00

•

Luján

•

Mar del Plata

• •

Mendoza $50.00 Mercedes (Corrientes) $43.00 Merlo $45.00 Mina Clavero $45 Miramar $30.00 Monte Hermoso Montevideo $25.00 Necochea $25.00 Neuquén $45.00 Oberá $43.00 Paraná $24.00 Paso de los Libres Pinamar $20.00 Pocitos $83.00 Posadas $40.00

• • • • •

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

2 daily 7 daily

26 hrs Pluma, Rápido Yguazú 18 hrs A34, A61, A157, A187, A193

2 daily 3 daily 3 daily

19 hrs Rápido Yguazú, Pluma 3 hrs A71, A137 22 hrs A157, A301

5 daily 8 daily 2 daily 1 daily

22 hrs 2 hrs 17 hrs 80 hrs

$3.00

5 daily

$25.00

10 daily

A33, A155, A211, A262, A303 A33, A109 A299 Tepsa, El Rápido Internacional, Ormeño Transporte Luján (Línea 52), Talsa, Transportes Atlántida (Línea 57) 7 hrs A33, A68, A82, A109, A180, A302, A303, A305 13 hrs A33, A99, A134, A211

5 daily

A71 12 hrs A75, A99, A211 17 hrs A33, A211 8 hrs A180 A303 9 hrs General Urquiza 7 hrs A303, A305 15 hrs A33, A55, A155, A262, A303 17 hrs A132 8 hrs A71, A137 A132, A273, A28, A82, A109 26 hrs A164 14 hrs A37, A100, A133, A132, A135, A142, A273

3 daily 1 daily 2 daily 2 daily 4 daily 5 daily 1 daily 5 daily 7 daily 4 daily 1 daily 7 daily

Porto Alegre (Brazil) $71.00 2 daily Presidencia Roque.Saenz Peña $61.00 1 daily Puerto Iguazú $50.00 7 daily

21 hrs

17 hrs A71, A157 21 hrs A273, A100, A37, A142, A135, A132 20 hrs A211, A303, A302 13 hrs A157 15 hrs A61, A130, A154, A157, A193

Puerto Madryn $57.00 5 daily Reconquista $35.80 2 daily Resistencia $43.00 5 daily Rio Do Janeiro (Brazil) $117.00 2 daily Río Gallegos $107.00 4 daily Rosario $20.00 10 daily Salta $80.00 4 daily San Antonio de Areco 6 daily San Clemente del Tuyú $24.00 4 daily San Martín de los Andes $90.00 5 daily

General Information

Pluma, Rápido Yguazú

48 hrs 40 hrs 6 hrs 22 hrs 11 2 hrs

Pluma, Rápido Yguazú A128, A155, A211, A302, A303 A33, A71, A73, A157, A193, A299 A157, A164 A33, A68 A71, A109

23 hrs A33, A155, A211, A262, A303

72

BUENOS AIRES CITY Buses from Buenos Aires — continued • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

San Juan $54.00 San Luis $45.00 San Rafael $46.00 Santa Fe $21.00 Santa Rosa $37.00 Santiago de Chile$60.00 Santiago del Estero $45.00 São Paolo (Brasil) $101.00 Sierra de la Ventana $25.00 San Martín de los Andes $70.00 Tandil $15.00 Termas de Río Hondo $43.00 Trelew $76.00 Tucumán $60.00 Viedma $64.00 Villa Gesell $20.00 Zapala $65.00

3 daily 5 daily 3 daily 4 daily 7 daily 2 daily

16 hrs 12 hrs 13 hrs 6 hrs 9 hrs 21 hrs

12 daily

16 hrs A23, A28, A33, A34, A55, A71, A73, A164, A211

2 daily

42 hrs Pluma, Rápido Yguazú

1 daily

71 2 hrs A55, A155, A303

5 daily 3 daily

23 hrs A33, A55, A155, A211, A262 6 hrs A305, Río Paraná

2 daily 4 daily 8 daily 4 daily

15 hrs 22 hrs 16 hrs 14 hrs 7 hrs 19 hrs

4 daily

A11 A11, A33, A99, A211 A55, A134, A155, A211, A303 A71, A157, A193 A33, A303, El Zorzal A33, A211

A55, A155 A128, A155, A211, A302, A303 A23, A33, A55, A97, A164, A211 A155, A303, A82, A109 A33, A262

You can have your bill sent to your home address if you wish • Budget Rent-a-Car, Avenida Santa Fe 869, Retiro @ 43119870 fax 43153814 • Dollar Rent A Car, M.T. de Alvear 523, Retiro @ 43158800 fax 43132752; e-mail: [email protected]; Web site: http://www.dollar.com.ar • Localiza Rent a Car, Calle Paraguay 1122, Retiro @ 48162545 fax 48160899. Available for hire are: Fiat Uno, Fiat Tempra, GM Corsa, VW Golf, VW Pointer, VW Senda, Ford Galaxy, Ford Fiesta, Ford Escort, Ford Orion, Renault 9, Renault 19, Peugeot 205, Peugeot 504, Peugeot 306, Peugeot 405, Chrysler Neon, and Daewoo Racer Hire charges in Argentina are expensive. Daily rates with the established car rental firms range upwards from $90.00 for a small car which includes tax and insurance, and 300 free km.

is limited to overnight stays. Hosterías are pleasant places and very friendly. Meals of some sort are available at all four types of accommodation. If you are a member of a motoring association you may even get a discount on your map purchases. If you plan to do a lot of driving it is worth joining the A.C.A. as there are discounts in many hotels for A.C.A. members. Car rental Petrol in Buenos Aires costs $0.85 per litre, and in the provinces $0.90–$1.20 per litre. In the southern part of Patagonia petrol prices are cheaper. Driving in the city of Buenos Aires is not advisable. The same applies to crossing the border to another countrywith a hire car because of the associated red tape. When hiring a car ascertain whether tax and insurance are included in the hire charges. • Autorentas del Atlántico Hertz, Dr. Ricardo Rojas 451 Barrio Retiro @ 43121317 • A1 Rent a Car, M.T. de Alvear 678 @ 43111000 fax 43117491; e-mail: [email protected] • Avis Rent-a-Car, Cerrito 1527, Retiro @ 43265542 fax 43173777/43266992.

# Water transport

The Buenos Aires Herald, an English-language newspaper, lists all shipping schedules. • To Rosario and Corrientes, up the Río Paraná and Río Paraguay: Flota

73

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL T Trains from Buenos Aires

The railroad information office is at Florida 729, and is open Mon–Sat 07:00–21:00, Sun 07:00–13:00. The long-distance rail stations with passenger services are: • Estación Retiro, Ave. Ramos Mejía 1430 @ 43118704/8264. This is now mainly a commuter station for trains going to the suburbs ° TUFESA, Ave. Ramos Mejía 1338 @ 43138060. Only TUFESA (Tucumán Ferrocarriles SA) run long-distance trains to Tucumán via Rosario and La Banda in Santiago del Estero Province • Estación Constitución, General Hornos 11 @ 43040028/31 is the main station for commuter trains going south. There are still daily trains to Mar del Plata and services to Bariloche via Bahía Blanca; also trains for La Plata depart from here ° Ferro Baires is the company operating the trains in Buenos Aires Province • Estación Once, Ave Pueyrredón near B. Mitre 48610043. Mainly a commuter line to western destinations in Buenos Aires Province ° Ferro Expreso Pampeano @ 43312702 runs some services to Santa Rosa in La Pampa Province Railroad stations can be reached by Subte: • Línea “C” connects Estación Retiro with Estación Constitución • Línea “A” connects Estación Once Long-distance services from Estación Constitución Train

Departs

Services

Duration

Return

To Bahía Blanca via Olavarría, General Lamadrid, Pigüé , and Tornquist •

El Bahiense 21:10 Tues, Thurs, Fri, Sun 19:35 Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat Duration: Pigüé 91 4 hrs; Tornquist 101 4 hrs; Bahía Blanca 121 4 hrs

To Bahía Blanca via Olavarría, Coronel Pringles, and Sierra de la Ventana •

El Bahiense 21:10 Mon, Wed, Sat 20:00Tues,Thurs,Sun.fromBahíaBlanca Duration: Olavarría 5 hrs; Coronel Pringles 8 hrs; Sierra de la Ventana 91 4 hrs; Bahía Blanca 12 hrs

To Bolívar •

18:55

1 daily

63 4 hrs 03:25

Alfonsina Storni 15:30 1 daily Bonaerense 08:25 1 daily Ciudad de Mar del Plata 18:30 1 daily Cruz del Sur 23:30 1 daily El Marplatense 10:15 Fri Two weekly January/February Stella Maris 06:55 1 daily Tren 4301 19:45 1 daily Tren 4302 08:05 1 daily

43 4 hrs 10:30 41 2 hrs 17:30

To Mar del Plata • • • • • • • •

41 2 hrs 08:40 43 4 hrs 23.55 41 4 hrs 20:45 Sun 5 hrs 18:40 43 4 hrs 5 hrs

To Miramar •

06:55

1 daily

10 hrs

To Pinamar •

09:00 1 daily 12 hrs Connects with buses to Ostende, Valeria del Mar, Villa Gesell, Cariló, San Bernardo, and Mar de Ajó

To Quequén and Necochea (10 hrs) via Tandil (5 hrs) •

Brisas del Mar

General Information

20:30

Mon, Wed, Fri

74

BUENOS AIRES CITY Bookshops Fluvial del Estado boats leave twice a Argentines must be one of the most literweek from Dársena Sur (south basin) ate peoples on earth judging by the numHovercraft services ber of first-rate bookshops in Buenos At the Hydrofoil Terminal Dársena Aires. Norte a departure tax is collected: $6.00 • ABC, Córdoba 685, Retiro to Colonia and $10.00 to Montevideo. & • El Ateneo, Florida 340, San Nicolás. • Aliscafos Puente Fluvial, Avenida Stocks books in seventeen languages Córdoba 787, San Nicolás @ 43144691 Librería Goethe, Corrientes 366, San • fax 43131356 Nicolás. Good selection of German • Ferrytur, Avenida Córdoba 699, San books, both new and second-hand Nicolás @ 43156800 fax. The ferry terLibrería Hachette, Avenida Córdoba • minal is in Dársena Sud, Avenida 936, San Nicolás. French books Brasil Dique 1 @, 43001366 • Librería Leonardo, Córdoba 335, • Seacat terminal,Dársena Norte, Retiro. Italian books Viamonte near Costanera Sur • Plazoleta Primera Junta, Caballito. @ 43145100 Books and magazines on Saturdays ° Seacat hydrofoil to Colonia (Uru12:00–20:00 and Sundays 10:00–20:00 guay): Sat 11:30, Sun 09:00, 15:30, • Plazoleta Santa Fe, corner of Santa Fe 19:00 and Uriarte, Palermo. Old books and • Aliscafos Buquebus, Córdoba 867 San magazines, Saturdays 12:00–20:00, Nicolás @ 43134444 fax 43620230. HovSundays 10:00–20:00 ercraft depart from Dársena Sur, • There is a well-stocked second-hand Pedro de Mendoza 443 near Avenida bookshop inside the shopping arcade Brasil. Ferries to Colonia and Montein front of Once station, Barrio video. Shuttle bus from downtown Balvanera. Books can be exchanged office to Dársena Sur and the prices are reasonable • Cacciola, Florida 520, San Nicolás Clothes @ 43945520/43936100 Shop in Florida and Avenida Santa Fe for • Ferrylíneas, Viamonte near menswear. Avenida Corrientes has a lot Costanera Sur, La Boca @ 43145100 of menswear shops between blocks 600 and 1000. Y Shopping There is also good shopping in Avenida Good streets for shopping are Calle Cabildo in the Belgrano district. To reach Florida, a mall in the main business disit take bus 152 from Retiro station. trict, and Avenida Santa Fe, which For casual clothes try the boutiques in the crosses Florida at Plaza San Martín. barrio of Martínez. Avenida Santa Fe is less touristy and less expensive than Florida. Galerías Pacífico Photographic equipment occupies one entire block in Calle Florida • Laboclick, Esmeralda 444, San and is a major shopping center with bouNicolás. Same-day service for prints, tiques and up-market cafés catering for 24 hours for slides those with good taste and the wallet to • Le Lab, Viamonte 612 corner of prove it. Florida, San Nicolás Shopping centers and malls Souvenirs and antiques Porteños are extremely proud of their ofThe best buys are found in the San Telmo ten opulent galerías (malls), truly a sign district, particularly on Defensa, Carlos of the country’s regained prosperity. Calvo, and Humberto. • Patio Bullrich, Libertador 740, Retiro Antiques • Unicenter, Paraná 3745 • Plaza Dorrego, Humberto Primero • Alto Palermo, Arenales 3360, and Defensa Barrio San Telmo. Here Palermo on Sundays the Fería de San Telmo • Paseo Alcorta, Salguero 3172, holds a market for souvenirs and anPalermo tiques between 10:00 and 17:00. Street performers entertain the shoppers

75

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL •

There is another excellent racecourse with a grass track at San Isidro, 25 minutes north from the city center by train or car. The meetings alternate with those at Palermo. There are Saturday and Sunday races throughout the year, and on all holidays except May 25 and July 9. Betting is by totalizator Swimming The water in the Río de la Plata is highly contaminated and swimming is prohibited.

and sightseers. Very touristy. Catch a 29 bus from Rivadavia near Calle Florida Handicrafts • Fería de Las Artes, corner of Defensa and Alsina. Fridays 14:00–17:00 • Craft and jewelry market on Saturdays 10:00–18:00 at corner of Avenida Santa Fe and Plaza Italia. Take Subte Línea “D” • Paintings in the Caminito, La Boca Stamps and coins • Rivadavia 4900 corner of Parque Rivadavia. Vendors congregate around the ombú tree. Sundays 09:00–13:00

p Sightseeing

The Dirección de Turismo de Buenos Aires organizes free guided bus or walking tours through the city. Reservations to be made Tues–Fri 10:00–12:00 @ 43711496. All historic churches are open 17:00–20:00. For art galleries, museums, and libraries check at the tourist office for opening hours. Admission to museums costs $1.00–$10.00. Sights are listedunder individual barrios.

a Sport Boating • Yacht Club Argentino, Viamonte near Costanera Sur, Retiro @ 43825414. Campeonato de Otoño (Autumn Championships) are held in May Golf Asociación Argentina del Golf (Argentine Golf Association), Avenida Corrientes 538, 11th floor, San Nicolás @ 4394743/2972. • Costa Golf Center, Golf driving range, Avenida Rafael Obligado between Salguero and Avenida Sarmiento Costanera Norte, Barrio Palermo @ 48019245. Open 08:00–20:00 • Golf Club José Jurado, Avenida Coronel Roca 5025 (1437) @ 46027507/ 6960 • Golf Club Lagos de Palermo, Avenida Tornquist near Olleros 1426, Barrio Palermo @ 47727261/7576 • Santa Marguerita Golf Club, Maipú 872, 1st floor (1066) @ 43220947 Cancha (01478) 481941 There are also golf courses at Hurlingham, Ranelagh, Ituzaingó, Lomas, San Andrés, San Isidro, Sáenz Peña, Olivos, Jockey, Campo Argentinos, and Hindú Country Club. Racing • The Hipódromo Argentino (Argentine Racecourse), Avenida del Libertador 4101 is next to Parque Palermo, Barrio Palermo; seats about 45 000. Major events are held in May, June General Information

s Excursions Tour operators The operators listed conduct tours within the capital, to the outskirts of Buenos Aires such as Tigre Delta, Luján, La Plata. Also listed are tour operators who conduct tours to provincial destinations. • Aristarain Viajes, Viamonte 611, 6th floor, San Nicolás @ 43223779/9665 fax • Buenos Aires Tur, Lavalle 1444 oficina 6, San Nicolás @ 43712304 • Buenos Aires Vision, Esmeralda 356 8th floor, San Nicolás @ 43942986/4682 • Cacciola Viajes y Turismo, Florida 520, 1st floor, San Nicolás @ 43945520. Tours to Isla Martín García from Tigre boat terminal; excursions daily at 08:00 • City Service Travel Agency, Florida 890, Retiro @ 43128416 fax 43139407. American Express agent • Comarcas Viajes y Turismo, Laprida 1380, Recoleta @ 48261130 fax 48211876. Organizes tours to Esteros del Iberá and and polo ranches • Feeling Turismo, Ave. L.N. Alem 762 @ 43135533 fax 48112011. Specializes in

76

BUENOS AIRES CITY e-mail: [email protected]. Tours to Mendoza, Salta, trekking the southern Inca trail from Salta visiting Santa Rosa de Tastil; to Laguna Pozuelos in Jujuy Province • Nova Terra S.A., Suipacha 370, 7th floor, San Nicolás @/fax 43260682. Tours to El Calafate in Santa Cruz Province Tour operators in Olivos, Buenos Aires Province • Catamaranes Libertad, Avenida Corrientes near Avenida Libertador, barrio of Olivos @ 47997308. Boat excursions from Puerto de Olivos Sat 16:00 and Sun 15:00 and 17:00 Excursions • Isla Martín García: Situated about 45 km from Buenos Aires in the Río Uruguay delta. Juan de Solis was the first European to make landfall here in 1516. For many centuries this island was the staging point for expeditions of conquest. In its time the island has been occupied by the Portuguese, Spanish, Uruguayans, Brazilians, and English. The last invasion was by Anglo-French troops in 1845 under the command of Giuseppe Garibaldi, as a starting point for his proposed invasion of Argentina. When the island returned to Argentine hands it was used as a military prison where several of Argentina’s presidents have been incarcerated. Now it is a wildlife sanctuary. A small town has sprung up around the fortifications. There is a small hotel, and an air service. The boat trip from Tigre takes two hours through the islands of the delta. Also camping on the island • Montevideo, Uruguay: Budget travelers can make a day trip going by high-speed ferries (21 2 hrs, $28.00 week days, $38.00 weekends). Tour operators organize two-day tours for around $110.00 which include Seacat hydrofoil to Colonia, bus Colonia–Monteviedo, half board, city tour and one night in a three-star hotel. See “Water transport” on page 73 . Make sure you have a visa for Uruguay as it may take several days to get one in Buenos Aires

trips, resort bookings, and outdoor activities in Mendoza Province • Flyer Viajes, Reconquista 617, 8th floor, San Nicolás @ 43138224 fax 43121330. Dutch, English, French and German spoken; credit cards accepted • Historical Tours, Arroyo 897/14 Barrio Retiro @ 432267210. Organizes sailing trips on the Río de la Plata • Infuetur, M.T. de Alvear 790 @ 43110233. Specializes in tours to Neuquén, Río Negro, Chubut and Santa Cruz; open Mon–Fri 09:00–17:00 • Interplanet, Esmeralda 740, 3rd floor, San Nicolás @ 43934752 fax. Organizes tours to Uruguay, Bariloche, and Iguazú Falls • Saltur, Esmeralda 847, 18th floor @ 43136372; e-mail: saltur @ssdnet. com.ar; Web site: www.ssdnet.com. ar/saltur • Tren Histórico, Federico Lacroze 4181, Chacarita @ 45539214 • Turar, B. Mitre 559, 4th floor, San Nicolás @ 43422999 • Turismo Estrella Cóndor, Avenida Córdoba 827, 1st floor, Retiro @ 43126099 fax 43133803 • Turismo Tastil, Córdoba 632, 4th floor @ 43228899, fax 43220777, e-mail: [email protected]. Specializes in tours to Salta, Jujuy, and Tucumán Ecotour operators & • Lihué Expeditions, Maipú 926, Barrio Retiro @ 43150906/43119610 fax email: lihueexpeditions@sudnet. com.ar. This company specializes in tours off the beaten track and wildlife safaris, such as to Esteros del Iberá and the Patagonian glaciers. E n glish-speaking guides • Gador Viajes, Tucumán 941, 1st floor C, Barrio San Nicolás @ 43229806 fax 43226344; e-mail: 7300.364@ compuserve.com • Interlagos, Suipacha 472 oficina 304, Barrio San Nicolás @ 43933541 fax 43944841; e-mail: interlagos@cotecal. com.ar. Specializes in trips to Lago Argentino in Santa Cruz Province and to Tierra del Fuego • Kallpa Tour, Roque Sáenz Peña 811, 5th floor, @ 43941830 fax 43266371; 77

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL •

•

•

Tigre and the Río Paraná delta, known as Delta: The delta covers 14 000 square kilometers. Get there by F C General Bartolomé Mitre train from Retiro station, or by colectivo 60. An alternative way to Tigre is by the Tren de la Costa which leaves from Olivos; there are good bus services from Buenos Aires to Olivos. Tour operators also run excursions to the Delta. Tigre is also the starting point for ferry services to Carmelo in Uruguay Colonia, Uruguay: This is a ferry trip to the Portuguese-founded city with its medieval town center still intact. Budget travelers can use direct ferry (3 hrs, $11.00) or hydrofoil (1 hr, $25.00) to Colonia. Tour operators organize two-day tours for around $110.00 which includes ferry, half board and one night in a two-star hotel Bariloche: This is a trip to the lake region in northern Patagonia with the possibility of skiing in winter or hiking in a superb mountain region in summer, not forgetting the cruises on magnificent Lago Nahuel Huapi. Budget travelers can go by bus ($90.00, 23 hrs) or by train ($55.00–$105.00, 35 hrs). Tour operators organize eight-day tours for $235.00 which includes bus fares, 5 nights in a three-star hotel, half

•

•

board, and two excursions. See Bariloche on page 447 Cataratas del Iguazú (Iguazú Falls): These spectacular falls are in the north-eastern part of Argentina. This subtropical area is the remaining part of a once large subtropical forest cover now restricted to the Parque Nacional Iguazú which incorporates the falls. The trip goes mostly through fairly flat country until you reach Posadas, the capital of Misiones province. Budget travelers can go by direct bus to Puerto Iguazú (22 hrs). Tour operators organize bus and jet excursions. By bus: 6 days and three nights for $150.00. This includes bus fare, visits to the falls on both sides of the border, Wanda amethyst mine, Ciudad del Este in Paraguay, and the Jesuit mission of San Ignacio Mini, and three nights accommodation in a three-star hotel. By jet: 4 days and three nights for $310.00. This includes air fare, excursions to falls on both sides of the border, Ciudad del Este in Paraguay and Itapú dam. See also Puerto Iguazú on page 1014 Organized tours to Santa Cruz Province: See Comodoro Rivadavia on page 501 and Río Gallegos on page 577

THE BARRIOS The barrios of tourist interest are: • Almagro (page 79) • Balvanera (page 79) • Barracas (page 81) • Belgrano (page 82) • Constitución (page 85) • La Boca (page 85) • Monserrat — together with San Nicolás constitutes the commercial district (”Centro” or “Microcentro”) (page 87) • Palermo (page 90)

General Information

• • • •

•

78

Puerto Madero (page 92) Recoleta (page 93) Retiro (page 96) San Nicolás — together with Monserrat constitutes the commercial district (”Centro” or “Microcentro”) (page 98) San Telmo (page 103)

BUENOS AIRES CITY

Almagro

ALMAGRO

A

lmagro is bounded in the west by Río de Janeiro, in the south by Avenida Independencia, in the east by Loria and Sánchez Bustamente, and in the north by Avenida Angel Gallardo. The hub of this barrio is Plaza Almagro bounded by J. Salguero, Sarmiento, Bulnes and J.D. Perón. The Basilica San Carlos Borromeo is on Quintino Bocayuva 144 off Rivadavia 4000. Of interest is the Mercado de las Flores, the central flower market of Buenos Aires, at Avenida Corrientes 3900; it starts at midnight. Almagro is served by Subte Línea “A” and Línea “B”. It is a place for good restaurants and some tanguerías; not on the normal tourist circuit.

C Accommodation •

& •

•

La Esquina de Flores, Medrano 632. Vegetarian • A’Mamma Liberata, Medrano 974. K. Italian cuisine • Tuy Salceda, Maza 457. Spanish cuisine • Vegetariano, Sarmiento 1810. Vegetarian cuisine Restaurants with entertainment • Cyclope, Castro Barros 553 $X K. Italian and French cuisine; entertainment • Fernandezes, Billinghurst 699. Tango shows • Free Way, Ave. La Plata 551. International cuisine; live music • Mauna Loa, Medrano 1071. Argentine cuisine; dancing • La Tarantella, Medrano 476. Argentine cuisine; dancing

Metropolitan Hotel I, Ave. Corrientes 3973 @ 48623366 fax 49311133; e-mail: [email protected] ABDELV $H 2.. Subte Línea “B”, Medrano station; just around the corner. Backpacker accommodation $J 1 Metropolitan Hotel II, Ave. Boedo 449, @ 49327547 fax 49311133; e-mail: [email protected] ABDELV $H 2. Subte Línea “A”, Loria station; 10 minutes walk. Also handy for public buses to airport. Backpacker accommodation $J 1

E Eating out Restaurants • Cantina Don Carlos, Billinghurst 450; specialty pastas and seafood, $X. International cuisine • Cantina Il Formaggio, Agüero 900. Seafood • Centro Navarro, Moreno 3682. Seafood

M Services

•

Italian Hospital, Gascón 450

BALVANERA

Balvanera Maps • #6 Balvanera, Monserrat and San Nicolás: page 53 • #8 Balvanera and Recoleta: page 57 • #9 Recoleta: page 59

B

alvanera is bounded by Avenida Independencia, Avenida Entre Ríos, Avenida Callao, Avenida Córdoba, Avenida Díaz, Gallo, Sánchez de

79

Balvanera

CAPITAL FEDERAL Bustamente, and Loria. The hub of this barrio is the National Congress, seat of the Argentine government overlooking the Plaza del Congreso. Plaza Miserere with the Once railroad station is the starting point for passenger trains to destinations in Buenos Aires Province and La Pampa Province. The main shopping streets are Avenida Corrientes and Avenida Callao, with many good restaurants. On Avenida Callao are also many Casas de Provincias and the plush Hotel Bauen Buenos Aires. This barrio has some nice tanguerías-cum-dancing clubs which are moderately priced and welcome visitors. There are also a number of museums and historical buildings and the Facultad de Ciencias Económicas on Avenida Córdoba. Subte Línea “A” and Línea “B” provide fast and frequent services to the center. •

The district known as “Congreso” is not an official barrio, but is that part of Balvanera where the Government offices such as the Congress building and the “Tribunal” or High Court are situated.

Nihonbashi, Moreno 2095 $X. Credit cards accepted. Japanese cuisine, open Tues–Sun 19:30–24:00 • Prosciutto, B. Mitre 1699. Italian cuisine • Quorum, Combate de los Pozos 61. International cuisine • Yuki, Venezuela 2145. Japanese cuisine Restaurants with entertainmnet • Al Galope, Tucumán 2633. Parrilla. Tango shows

E Eating out Restaurants • Chez Barbette, La Rioja 1020. French cuisine

C Accommodation in Balvanera ***** *** *** ** ** ** * * * *

Bauen, Avenida Callao 346 Fax 43726822 Lyon, Riobamba 251 Sarmiento Palace, Sarmiento 1953 Fax 49536247 Ayamitre, Ayacucho 106 El Molino, Avenida Callao 164 N’Ontué, Corrientes 3321 Callao, Callao 292 Cóndor, La Rioja 258 Florentino, General Urquiza 187 Hispano Argentino, Catamarca 167

ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$TUVXYZ @ 43721600 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 43064684 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 49532038 AEFGJLPUV @ 49531655 AEFGJLPUV @ 43748941 AEFGJLPUV @ 48634098 AELPV @ 43723534 AELPV @ 49327626 AELPV @ 49329641 AEFLPV @ 49315543

Hospedajes A A A A A A A A

Bahía, H. Yrigoyen 3062 LP Gran Real, Riobamba 231 LP Gran Sarmiento, Sarmiento 1892 LP Miki, La Rioja 271 LP Oriental, B. Mitre 1840 LP San Agustín, Avenida Pueyrredón 121 LP Lourdes, Callao 44 LP Orleans, Callao 680 LP

Youth Hostel

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

49317198 43743526 43722764 49571614 49516427 48632131 49523087 48129342

$B $E

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$E/F $F $F $G $G $G $H $H

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• Che Lagarto Youth Hhostel, Combate de los Pozos 1151 AEL @ 43047618 $J 1 E-mail: che- [email protected]; 42 beds, shared accommodation and bathrooms. Subte Línea “E”, Entre Ríos station

Balvanera

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BUENOS AIRES CITY • • • • • • •

•

Aranjuez, Avenida Belgrano 2589. International cuisine; entertainment Café Homero, Cabrera 4946. Tango shows Thurs–Sat 23:00; admission $30.00 Boulevard, Ave. Callao 360. International cuisine; live music Club del Vino, Cabrera 4737. Tango show Sat 22:00, $30.00 El Molino, Rivadavia 1815. Tanguería La Casa de Carlos Gardel, Jean Jaurès 735. Tango show/dancing Sabor a Tango, Belgrano 2378. Tango shows Mon–Sun $40-$55.00. Tango instructions Wednesdays 14:00–19:00 and Sundays

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p Sightseeing •

Palacio del Congreso (the House of Assembly), Hipólito Yrigoyen 1869 at the far end of Avenida de Mayo, is Argentina’s legislature. Greco-Roman in style and monumental in size, it contains the Senate and the Chamber of Deputies. There is a public gallery but seating is limited. It opens at 17:00 and you must present your passport at the desk which checks in small groups. They will give you a pink slip as a receipt, and a ticket for your seat. You can stay as long as you like but must remain seated. Of interest is also the library which contains over 2.5 million books. The reading room is panelled with Italian walnut timber. This is a magnificent building, illuminated in the evening. Conducted tours in English, French, and Spanish

Barracas

•

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Fundación Banco Patricios (Banco Patricios Foundation), Callao 312. This is a theater venue Centro Cultural Ricardo Rojas (Ricardo Rojas Cultural Center), Avenida Corrientes 2038. Part of the Universidad de Buenos Aires, the Center stages cultural events and exhibitions and is open Mon–Sat 10:00–22:00. Admission to most events is free. Closed January/February. Best reached with Subte Línea “A”, Pasteur station; from there a short walk Museo Municipal del Cine Pablo C. Ducros Hicken (Pablo C. Ducros Hicken Cinema Museum), Sarmiento 2573. This museum traces the beginnings of the Argentine cinema from its beginnings in 1896 to the present. On exhibition are posters, photographs, movie projectors, and memorabilia which belonged to famous Argentine actors and actresses. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–18:30. Admission $1.00, Wednesdays free. Subte Linea “B”, Pueyrredón station Museo de Patrimonio Histórico de Aguas Argentinas (Argentine Water Museum), Riobamba 750. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–12:00. Best reached on Subte Línea “D”, Callao station; from there a short walk. Admission free Mercado de Abasto built in 1893 between Corrientes, Lavalle, Anchorena and Agüero near Once station, has been redeveloped as a cultural and entertainment center. Subte Línea “B”, Carlos Gardel station

BARRACAS

T

his barrio is in the extreme south of the city and is limited by the course of the Riachuelo river, Defensa, Avenida Caseros, Avenida Vélez Sarsfield, and the tracks of the Ferrobaires railroad line. The focal point is Plaza Colombia, bounded by Avenida Montes de Oca, Isabel La Católica Brandsen, and Pinzón. On the Plaza is Iglesia Santa Lucia, Avenida Montes de Oca 550.

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Barracas

CAPITAL FEDERAL E Eating out

Restaurants with entertainment • Buenos Aires Sur, Vilariño 2359. Tango shows Fri and Sat $30.00 • Señor Tango, Vieytes 1655. Tango shows daily 22:15, $55.00. Dancing

Restaurants • Parrilla 1880, Defensa 1667. Parrilla • Mayorazgo, Uspallata 701. Spanish cuisine

Belgrano

BELGRANO

B

elgrano and Nuñez are better-class outer residential suburbs in the north-western part of Buenos Aires. Although there are a few hotels their main fame is the large concentration of excellent eating places and a good nightlife, in particular on Costanera Rafael Obligado around La Pampa. The heart of Belgrano is Plaza General Manuel Belgrano with the Iglesia de la Inmaculata and two museums on the Plaza. This barrio can be reached by suburban trains from Retiro station in about 15 minutes. Colectivos #59,# 152, and #158 travel from Retiro station to Nuñez via Belgrano.

c Accommodation

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Yin Yang, Echeverría 244. Chinese cuisine • Zeppelin, Cabildo 3500. German cuisine • Eating out along Costanera Norte • A Los Amigos, Avenida Rafael Obligado. Credit cards. Parrilla E Eating out • A’Nonna Innamorata, Avenida Rafael Obligado. Credit cards. Italian Restaurants cuisine • Bub y su Taverna, Ave. Santa Fe 5001. & • Banana Coconor, Avenida Rafael Italian cuisine; dancing Obligado near Pampa $Y. Credit • China Town, Juramento 1656. Chicards. Shows. nese cuisine • Happening, Avenida Rafael • Ciao Bella, J. Newbery 1638. Italian Obligado. Parrilla cuisine • El Bodegón de Olleros, Olleros 1752. & • Los Años Locos, Avenida Rafael Obligado. Credit cards. Parrilla International cuisine • Los Platitos, Avenida Rafael • El Ceibal, Avenida Cabildo 1421. Obligado. Credit cards. Parrilla Parrilla • María Belén, Rafael Obligado. Parrilla • Gabbiano Ristorante, Cuba 2272. Ital• Negro El 11, Avenida Rafael ian cuisine • La Casona de Tía Teresa, Juramento Obligado. Credit cards. Parrilla • Rancho Inn, Avenida Rafael 1755. International cuisine • La Vieja Farola de Belgrano, La Obligado. Parrilla • Rodizio, Avenida Rafael Obligado. Pampa 1575. International cuisine. • La Pastasciuta, La Pampa 1595. ItalNational cuisine • Yo y El, Rafael Obligado. Parrilla ian cuisine • Mis Raices, Arribeños 2148. Kosher Restaurants along Costanera Norte cuisine with entertainment • Sapoe, La Pampa 1391. Parrilla • A’Nonna Inmaculata, Ave. Rafael • 2020 Restaurante Asador, Arcos 1984. Obligado. Italian Parrilla •

Key’s Hotel, Zapata 315 @ 47728371 $G 2 Hotel de la Rue, Ramón Freire 1765 @ 45514884 fax near La Pampa block 3100 $G 2

Belgrano

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BUENOS AIRES CITY •

Pizza Banana, Ave. Costanera near La Pampa. Pizza and pasta

p Sightseeing •

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Museo de Arte Español “Enrique Larreta” (Enrique Larreta Museum of Spanish Art), Juramento 2291. The building dates from 1870. The exhibits here were once the personal collection of Enrique Larreta, a renowned Argentine writer. They comprise Spanish art from the 13th to 20th century, which includes religious paintings, tapestry, and ceramics. The most famous pictures are La Sagrada Familia painted in the 16th century and a painting of the Cuzco School. Open Mon, Wed and Fri 14:00–19:45, Sat and Sun 15:00–19:45. Admission $1.00; Tuesdays free. Colectivos from Subte Línea “D”, Palermo station: 41, 57, 60, 67, 152. Closed during January Museo Casa de Yrurtia (Casa Yrurtia Museum), O’Higgins 2390. Rogelio Yrurtia was a sculptor and painter. He converted this 19th century house into a Spanish baroque building. On exhibit are his sculptures and paintings, including that of his wife, together with paintings of other Argentine and foreign artists. Open Wed–Sun 15:00–19:00. Admission charge $1.00 Museo Histórico Sarmiento (Sarmiento Historical Museum), Cuba 2079. Domingo Fausto

Caballito

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Sarmiento was a famous Argentine historian, educator, and president. This is a replica of the house in San Francisco de Monte de Oro in San Luis province where he was teaching at the age of fifteen. Inside is a model of the house he was born in San Juan. Different editions of his famous book Facundo are also exhibited together with memorabilia of his time. Open Tues–Fri and Sun 15:00–19:00. Admission $1.00 Museo Nacional del Hombre (National Museum of Mankind), 3 de Febrero 1370. On exhibit are weavings and masks of several Argentine tribes from the Chaco and north-eastern regions right down to Patagonia including the pampas. Open Mon–Fri 13:00–18:00. Best reached on Subte Línea “D”, Olleros station, and from there a five minutes’ walk. Admission free Museo Líbero Badii (Libero Badii Museum), 11 de September 1990. This national trust building houses the works of the Argentine painter and sculptor Líbero Badii. The house has hundreds of water-colors and oil paintings; the garden is filled with his sculptures. Open Tues–Fri 14:00–18:00, Sat, Sun 15:00–19:00. Closed in January

CABALLITO

L

ocated almost in the geographical center of Capital Federal, Caballito shares borders with the barrios of Chacabuco, Flores, Boedo, Almagro, and Crespo.This barrio is outside the general map area. Of interest is the Parque Centenario bounded by Avenida Díaz Vélez, Patricias Argentinas, Angel Gallardo, and Campichuelo. On weekends and holidays an open-air art exhibition is held here. In Parque Rivadavia an open-air stamp and book fair is held.

The commercial center is in Acoyte off Rivadavia. Caballito is served by Subte Línea “A”.

C Accommodation Youth hostels • Albergue Oroño, Espinosa 1628 @ 5816663 $I 1

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Caballito

CAPITAL FEDERAL E Eating out Restaurants • Abolengo, Ave. Gaona 1327. Argentine cuisine; live music • Bremen, Avenida Rivadavia 4585 • Dorado, Avenida Angel Gallardo 599. Italian cuisine • El Faro, Avellaneda 1243. National cuisine • El Metro, Avenida La Plata 1385. International cuisine • Riojano, Avellaneda 1034. Spanish cuisine

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Museo de la Fundación “Romulo Raggio” (Museum of the Romulo Raggio Foundation) , Gaspar Campos 861. This is a small palace built in French style. It houses a collection of paintings, sculptures, ceramics, photographs and documents of the Raggio family. Open Sat and Sun 16:00–19:00 Museo Argentino de Ciencias Naturales “Bernardino Rivadavia” (Bernardino Rivadavia Argentine Natural Sciences Museum), Avenida Angel Gallardo 470, in the Parque

Colegiales

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Centenario. A museum of natural history and science. Open Mon–Sun 14:00–18:00. Take Subte Línea “B” to Angel Gallardo station and walk from there. Admission $1.00 Museo de Escultura Luis Perlotti (Luis Perlotti Sculpture Museum), Pujol 642. This was the home and studio of the sculptor Luis Perlotti. On exhibit are a large part of his works together with a permanent exhibition of plastic arts. Open Tues–Fri 09:00–19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00–13:00 and 14:00–20:00. Admission $1.00, Wednesdays free. Subte Línea “A”, Acoyte and Primera Junta stations are within walking distance Observatorio Astronómico (Astronomical Observatory), Avenida Patricias Argentinas 550; open Fri and Sat 21:00–22:00. Admission $3.00 Primer Museo Histórico Sudamericano “Dr. Ernesto Che Guevara”(Dr. Ernesto Che Guevara First South American Museum), Nicasio Oroño 458. Open Sat and Sun 17:00–22:00. Best reached on Subte Línea “A”, Primera Junta station; from there a short walk. Admission free

COLEGIALES

C

olegiales is a residential barrio with good restaurants and a few nice tanguerías-cum-dancing clubs which welcome visitors. Collegiales station is on the suburban Mitre railroad line. It is outside the general map area.

E Eating out

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Restaurants • La Robla, Avenida Alvarez Thomas 1300. Spanish cuisine Restaurants with entertainment • Bodensee, Ave. Cramer 2455. German cuisine; live music • Estilo 2001, Zapata 301. Tango shows • New York City, Avenida Alvarez Thomas 1391. Disco. Young patrons

Colegiales

Platense Club, General Paz near Zapiola @ 7966833. Tanguería

S Buses

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Colectivos #38, #41, #57, #59, #67, #68, #152, and #161 depart from Palermo station (Subte Línea “D”) Colectivo #194 departs from Plaza Italia station (Subte Línea “D”) Colectivos #42 and #63 depart from Lacroze station (Subte Línea “B”)

BUENOS AIRES CITY

CONSTITUCIÓN

Constitución Map #4 Monserrat and Constitución: page 49

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onstitución is located in the southern part of Capital Federal. It is bounded by Avenida Independencia, Avenida Entre Ríos, Avenida Caseros, and Piedras. On Plaza Constitución is the southern end of Avenida 9 de Julio which runs right through to Avenida del Libertador in Retiro. Constitución station on Plaza Constitución is the starting point for trains to La Plata, Mar del Plata, and beyond to Bahía Blanca and Bariloche. Constitución is served by Subte Líneas “A”, “C”, and “E”. Línea “C” connects Retiro and Constitución railroad stations, and goes right through the tourist area of Buenos Aires.

E Eating out

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Munich Constitución, Lima 1589. German cuisine • Maraxe, Chile 899. International cuisine Restaurants with entertainment • Cemento, Estados Unidos 1238. Disco; open Thurs, Fri, Sat

Restaurants • Basque Français, Moreno 1370. Seafood • El Patio de Aldo, Avenida Entre Ríos 1965. Spanish cuisine • Les Anciens Combattants, Santiago del Estero 1435. French cuisine

C Accommodation in Constitución Hotels *** ***

Constitución Palace, Lima 1697 Cosmos, Lima 1811

Residenciales A A A A

Alba, Avenida Garay 1381 Carlos I, Carlos Calvo 1463 Cyrus, Humberto I 1162 Gran Prince, Humberto I 1189

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LA BOCA

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a Boca is in the extreme southern part of Capital Federal, along the Riachuelo river. It begins at Parque Lezama. Inside the park is a huge statue of Pedro de Mendoza and, opposite Calle Defensa, is the Museo Histórico Nacional (National History Museum). Most of the people living in the Boca district are of Italian descent, and the place has its own distinctive traditions and restaurants. With its gardens and restaurants, this is a pleasant place on a hot summer’s day, and lures many tourists to the area, especially on weekends and public holidays. In charming little streets lined with brightly colored houses the locals still hang their laundry to dry on balconies, reminiscent of street scenes in some Italian cities. The Caminito, going up from the Riachuelo, is the heart of the barrio; here are many little eating places with two museums in the 85

La Boca

CAPITAL FEDERAL vicinity, and on the streets artists sell their paintings. Calle Necochea between Brandsen and Olavarría are also stacked with cantinas. Puente Nicolás Avellaneda spans the Riachuelo linking La Boca to the outer suburb of Avellaneda, in Buenos Aires Province. La Boca is home of the famous soccer club Boca Juniors with their huge sport complex Estadio La Bombonera in Brandsen. Nowadays many painters and artists live in this district, and it is part of the bohemian section of Buenos Aires. The Riachuelo has been an eyesore for a long time. Although a start has been made to remove many of the rusting scuttled boat wrecks there is still room for improvement.

the band is loud. Seats some 500 people There are several other similar places also on Necochea. Most serve antipasto and chicken, and they all have loud bands. Be warned!

S Buses

From the downtown area there are many bus services. Best place to catch a bus to La Boca is at L.N. Alem station of Línea “B” near the Central post office: • Colectivos: #20, #33, #54, #152, #159; these buses have stops in the area bounded by Ave. Pedro de Mendoza, Del Valle Iberluca, and Aristóbulo del Valle

E Eating out Restauranrts • Campo e Mare, Gregorio Aráoz de Lamadrid 701. Italian cuisine • Casa de Atún, Almirante Brown 1127. Italian cuisine • El Viejo Puente, Almirante Brown 1499. Italian cuisine • Il Matterello, Martín Rodríguez 517 $Y. Credit cards accepted. Italian cuisine; open Tues–Sat • La Cancha, Brandsen 697. Spanish cuisine. Lunch and dinner $Y; credit cards • Mario, Necochea 863. Italian cuisine Restaurtants with entertainment • Alma de Bohemia, Necochea 948. Tanguería • Cantina Gennarino, Necochea 1210. International cuisine; live music and dancing • El Samovar de Rasputín, Iberlucea 1251. Tanguería, dancing • Il Piccolo Vapore, Necochea 1190. Italian cuisine; live music • Spadavecchia, Necochea 1180. Italian cuisine. Fixed price menu. Show. Very popular. There’s dancing, and

La Boca

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Museo Nacional de Bellas Arte de la Boca de Artistas Argentinos “Quinquela Martín” (Quinquela Martín La Boca National Fine Arts Museum of Argentine Artists), Avenida Pedro de Mendoza 1835. This was the home of Argentine painter Benito Quinquela Martín. On exhibit are his works as well as works of other famous Argentine painters. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–18:00, Sat and Sun 10:00–17:00; closed January Museo de Cera de La Boca (La Boca Wax Museum), Del Valle Iberluca 1261. On exhibit are wax figures of historic personalities such as the explorers Magellan and Solís; Indian chiefs Calfucurá and Catriel; and the founders of Buenos Aires Mendoza and Garay. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–18:00; Sat and Sun 11:00–20:00. Admission $3.00 Parque Lezama, Brasil near Paseo Colón. Handicraft Fair held on Sat and Sun 10:00–20:00

BUENOS AIRES CITY

MONSERRAT

Monserrat Maps #4 Monserrat and Constitución: page 49 • #6 Balvanera, Monserrat, and San Nicolás: page 53 •

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onserrat occupies the very center of Buenos Aires. Many Argentine Government buildings are located here. It has magnificent parks and historic buildings including many museums. For some reason it has the largest concentration of Spanish restaurants, including the Club Español. Some cafés are virtually historic institutions, like the famous Café Tortoni. On the south side in and around Balcarce are many tanguerías or dancing venues. It is served by Subte Líneas “A”, “C”, and “E”.

E Eating out

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Restaurants • Centro Asturiano, Solís 475, 3rd floor • $X. Credit cards. Spanish cuisine • Club Español, Bernardo de Irigoyen 180 $X. Credit cards. Spanish cuisine • • El Imparcial, H. Yrigoyen 1201. Spanish cuisine • • El Jabalí, Belgrano 538. German cuisine & • Hispano, Salta 20. Seafood; Spanish & • cuisine • La Cabaña, Entre Ríos 436. Argentine cuisine • • Laurak-Bat, Belgrano 1144. Spanish cuisine • Lo Prete, Luis S. Peña 749. Spanish • cuisine • Pedemonte, Avenida de Mayo 676. Credit cards. International cuisine • Swedish Club, Tacuari 147, 5th floor n • Taberna Baska, Chile 980. Credit • cards accepted. Seafood; Spanish cui• sine • Villa Rosa, H. Yrigoyen 1389. Credit p cards. Seafood; Spanish cuisine • Restaurants with entertaiment • Atenas en Oniro, Tte. Gral. J.D. Perón 926, 1st floor. Greek cuisine; live music • Café Tortoni, Avenida de Mayo 829. Peña evenings, jazz music on weekends, and tango evenings. Tanguería; open daily from 21:00; admission $10.00. On the first floor is the Academia Nacional del Tango • Chino Central, Ave. Rivadavia 656. Chinese cuisine; entertainment 87

La Trastienda, Balcarce 460. Tanguería; from 20:00 tango classes, shows from 22:30 Michelangelo, Balcarce 433; $65.00–$75.00. Tanguería, dancing; shows start at 22:30. Spanish cuisine. Corrientes Angosta, Lavalle 750. Over-30s. Tanguería Ávila Bar, Avenida de Mayo 1384. Lunch $Y; flamenco shows admission $50.00. Spanish cuisine Casablanca, Balcarce 668. Tango shows Mon–Sat 22:00; admission $40.00 El Querandí, Perú 302. Argentine cuisine; tango shows Mon–Sat 22:30, admission $50.00 La Ventana, Balcarce 425. International cuisine; tango show daily 22:00, admission $60.00

Entertainment

Teartro Avenida, Ave. de Mayo 1212 Teatro del Sur, Venezuela 1286

Sightseeing

Casa de Gobierno, on the east side of the Plaza de Mayo. Popularly known as the Casa Rosada (Pink House) because of its color, this building contains the offices of the President. It was built on the site of an old Spanish fort. The Casa Rosada is notable for its statues, lavish decoration, and libraries. The Museo de la Casa de Gobierno in the basement is open to the public. On exhibit are memorabilia of past Argentine presidents. Open Thurs and Fri from 12:00–18:00 Monserrat

CAPITAL FEDERAL C Accommodation in Monserrat Hotels Crowne Plaza Panamericano, Carlos Pellegrini 525 ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$TUVXYZ Fax 43485250 @ 43485000 ***** Intercontinental Buenos Aires, Moreno 809 ACDEFGHJKLMNPRS$TUVXYZ Fax 43407199 @ 43407100 **** Castelar, Avenida de Mayo 1152 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43838388 @ 43835000 **** City, Bolívar 160 ACDEFGHJKLMPS$TUVXYZ @ 43426480 fax **** Nogaró, Diagonal J A Roca 562 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43316791 @ 43310091 *** Napoleon, Rivadavia 1364 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 43832031 @ 43832036 ** Astoria, Avenida de Mayo 916 AEFGJLPUV @ 43349061 ** Hispano, Avenida de Mayo 861 AEFGJLPSUV Fax 43315266 @ 43424431 ** Novel, Avenida de Mayo 915 AEFGJLPSUV @ 43450176 ** Nuevo Hotel Mundial, Avenida de Mayo 1298 AEFGJLPUV Fax 43836318 @ 43830011 * Avenida Petit, Avenida de Mayo 1347 AELPV @ 43817831 * Cevallos Palace, Virrey Cevallos 261 AELPV @ 43727636 * Chile, Avenida de Mayo 1297 AELPV @ 43837877 * Gran Vedra, Avenida de Mayo 1350 AELPV @ 43830584 * Turista, Avenida de Mayo 686 AELPV @ 43312281 * Marbella, Avenida de Mayo 1261 AELPV @ 43832338 * Solís Palace, Solís 352 AELPV @ 43717428 • Hotel Oxford, Chacabuco 713 @ 43628598 *****

Hospedajes A A A A A A

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Avenida, Avenida de Mayo 623 Gran España, Tacuari 80 La Argentina, Avenida de Mayo 860 Reina, Avenida de Mayo 1120 Roma, Avenida de Mayo 1413 Uruguay, Tacuari 83

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Council Chambers of the City of Buenos Aires and of the May Revolution), Bolívar 65. Located on the spot which was designated by Juan Garay in 1580 when Buenos Aires was founded for the second time. On exhibit are sketches of the evolution of the city, colonial furniture the Sala Capitular where in 1810 the first town council was sworn in. It was converted into a museum in 1940. It also contains memorabilia of the May 1810 revolution and of the British attack of 1806 and 1807. Open Tues–Fri 12:30–19:00 Sun 15:00–19:00. Small admission charge

Museo Histórico del Cabildo (History Museum of the Council Chambers), on the west side of the Plaza de Mayo. The town hall was first built in 1711, but has been added to and truncated several times since. It was restored to its original state in 1940, and declared a national monument. It is guarded by soldiers in the picturesque red and blue uniforms of the San Martín grenadiers; the changing of the guard takes place at 12:00 Museo Histórico Nacional del Cabildo de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires y de la Revolución de Mayo (National History Museum of the

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Museo de la Ciudad (City Museum), Alsina 412, 1st floor. This museum is located in a house built around 1894. Exhibits on the past and future of Buenos Aires. On the ground floor is a chemist shop still preserving the decor of the late 1800’s. Open Sun–Fri 11:00–19:00. Admission $1.00, Wednesdays free. Subte Línea “A” Plaza de Mayo station; Línea “D” Catedral station; Línea “E” Bolívar station Museo Etnográfico Juan B. Ambrosetti (Juan B. Ambrosetti Etnographic Museum), Moreno 350. The museum is organized into several sections: biology, anthropology, archeology, and ethnography. On exhibit are nearly 60 000 pieces, among them nearly 10 000 pieces of petrified anthropological items. The archeological section is particularly interesting with its exhibits of ceramics from the north-eastern part of Argentina; also amply represented is Patagonia. Attached to the museum is the Biblioteca Augusto Cortázar with titles on anthropology. Open Wed–Sun 14:30–18:30. Subte Línea “A”, Plaza de Mayo station and a short walk Museo Histórico del Traje (Costume History Museum), Chile 832. On exhibition are uniforms and costumes worn during the colonial era Basílica Menor de Nuestra Señora del Rosario and Convento de Santo Domingo, Ave. Belgrano block 300. During the 1806 British invasion a platoon of British troops were trapped in the church and subsequently surrrendered to the Spanish. On display are the captured British regimental flags. Here is also the mausoleum of the independence hero General Belgrano who designed the Argentine flag Museo Nacional del Grabado, Defensa 372. Some parts of the house were built around 1800 and played a

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role during the British invasion of 1806 Iglesia San Ignacio de Loyola (Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola), Bolívar 225 (near Calle Alsina), was founded by the Jesuits in 1710 and is one of the oldest colonial building in Buenos Aires. You can recognize it by its two high towers Basilica and Convento de San Francisco (Basilica and Convent of St. Francis), on the corner of Calles Alsina and Defensa, is controlled by the Franciscan order. It was inaugurated in 1754 and given a new façade in 1808 Iglesia y Convento de Santo Domingo or Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Rosario (Dominican Church and Convent), corner of Defensa and Avenida Belgrano, was founded in 1756. In 1806 the towers were damaged during a British attempt to seize Buenos Aires. The British commando surrendered, and its regimental colors are still preserved in the church Plaza del Congreso in front of the Congreso. Bounded by Rivadavia, Yrigoyen, Ceballos and Avenida Entre Ríos, it is one of the largest squares in the city. It has a waterfall and is floodlit in the evening. On the west side is the Monumento a los Dos Congresos Plaza de Mayo is the city’s oldest square and is surrounded by many public buildings. It was here on May 20, 1810 that a huge gathering rallied to support Argentina’s declaration of independence. The Pirámide de Mayo in the center of the plaza has been erected to mark the historic happings here in May 1810. On a more somber note are the Thursday vigils held by the mothers of victims of the “Dirty War” to bring to justice those responsible for the atrocities committed

Monserrat

CAPITAL FEDERAL

PALERMO

Palermo Maps #10 Recoleta and Palermo: page 61 • #11 Parque Palermo: page 63 •

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alermo is the largest barrio. About a quarter of it is taken up by Parque 3 de Febrero, commonly known as Parque Palermo. Palermo is bounded to the north by the Río de la Plata, to the east by Avenida Zabala, Avenida Cabildo and Avenida Dorrego, Avenida Córdoba in the south, and Avenida Díaz in the west. Palermo in Manuel de Rosas’ days was a marshy area and partially swamp, surrounded by lots of willow trees. Since the days of Rosas this is the preferred suburb for many consulates; it also possesses many museums. Inside Parque 3 de Febrero are the Hipódromo Argentino de Palermo (racetrack), Golf Club Lagos de Palermo, Jardín Zoológico (zoo), and the Jardín Botánico (botanic gardens). The Campo Argentino de Polo, on the corner of Avenida del Libertador and Dorrego, is the venue for the Campeonato Abierto Argentino de Polo. There are few hotels but many excellent eating places and tanguerías. In Paseo Salguero near Avenida del Libertador is a major shopping complex Paseo Alcorta. Palermo is served by Subte Línea “D”. Within Palermo are three districts which deserve special mention: Palermo Viejo (”Old Palermo”) Palermo Chico (”Little Palermo”), and Alto Palermo. Palermo Viejo is bounded by Avenidas Córdoba, Coronel Díaz, Mansilla, and Pueyrredón. It is a gracious but somewhat shabby old district, undergoing rapid gentrification. It is unique among the better-class residential districts of Capital Federal in that few buildings are more than two stories high. Palermo Chico, adjoining Recoleta, and bounded by Avenidas Figueroa Alcorta, Tagle, La Heras, and Scalabrini Ortiz, is a relatively tiny area of narrow winding streets packed with consulates and private homes of astonishing wealth — it is probably the best address in the Capital Federal.The barrio of Palermo is one of the most sought-after residencial areas in Buenos Aires.

Palermo

Alto Palermo lies between Avenidas Santa Fe, Mansilla, Pueyrredón, and Coronel Diaz.

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Apart Hotel Torre Cristoforo Colombo, Santa María de Oro 2747 ACDEFPU @ 47779633 fax 4775 9633 $B/C 2 Hotel Palermo, Avenida Santa Fe 4599 AEFGJLPSTUV @ 47735133 $F 2 Subte Línea "D" Estación Palermo Hotel Panamé, Godoy Cruz 2774 AEFGJLPSTUV @ 47714041 $F 2. Subte Línea "D" Estación Palermo

E Eating out Cafeterías • Café de la Paz, Avenida Presidente Quintana 595 • Round Point, Figueroa Alcorta 3009 • Café Tabac, Avenida del Libertador 2300 Restaurants • Angelo, Sinclair 3136 $Y. Credit cards. Italian cuisine • Dixie Diner, Avenida R. Obligado near G. Salguero; open Sun–Thurs

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BUENOS AIRES CITY 09:00–01:00 $X. Credit cards. American cuisine • La Casona de Tía Teresa, Avenida Las Heras 2843. International cuisine • La Catedra, Cerviño 4699. Parrilla • La Tranquera, F Alcorta 6464. Parrilla • La Zi Teresa di Napoli, Avenida Las Heras 2939. Italian cuisine • Le Trianon, Avenida del Libertador 1902. French cuisine • Lotus Neo Thai, Ortega y Gasset 1782 1st floor. Thai cuisine • Oviedo, Beruti 2602 $X. Credit cards. Spanish cuisine • Morizono Sushi Bar, Paraguay 3521. Credit cards. Japanese cuisine • Pizza Cero, Cerviño 3701. Pizzería • Río Rhin Norte, Tagle 2531. German cuisine • Vizzio, Billinghurst 2521 $X. Credit cards. Italian cuisine Restaurants with entertainment • Buenos Aires News, Paseo de la Infanta 17. Argentine cuisine; dancing • Caldero, Gorriti 3972. International cuisine; live music • Coyote, Ave. Casares. Mexican cuisine; dancing • El Beduino, Ave. R. Scalabrini Ortíz 1453. Armenian cuisine; live music • El Cerrojo del Juglar, Laprida 1173. International cuisine; fixed menu. Credit cards. Show • La Bodeguita de Buenos Aires, Gascón 1460 $X. Cuban atmosphere; live music; open Tues–Sun 20:00; dancing

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Museo Nacional de Aeronáutica (National Aviation Museum), Avenida Rafael Obligado 4550. Traces the beginnings and history of Argentine aviation. There are three exhibition rooms: Argentine, South American, and international aviation with scale models. Open Tues–Fri 08:30–16:30; Sun 11:00–19:00. Can be combined with a dining trip to the parrilla section of Avenida Rafael Obligado Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo (National Museum of Decorative Arts), Avenida del Libertador 1902. This was formerly the Palacio

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Errázuriz. Paintings, musical instruments, sculptures, and items made of silver are exhibited here. Renaissance, baroque, rococo and neo-classical exhibits. Open Wed–Mon 15:00–19:00; closed in January. Admission $3.00 Museo Nacional de Arte Oriental (National Museum of Oriental Art), Avenida del Libertador 1902. Upstairs in Palacio Errázuriz. China and India are well represented with art objects made of jade, quartz, and china. From Japan there are arms of the 7th century. Open daily 15:00–19:00. January closed. Admission $1.00 Museo de las Artes Plásticas Eduardo Sívori (Eduardo Sívori Fine Arts Museum), Avenida de la Infanta Isabel 555. On exhibit are his works, mainly scenes of the pampas. Open Tues–Fri from 11:00–17:00. Admission $1.00. From Subte Línea “C” General San Martín station take colectivo #10; from Subte Línea “B” Dorrego station take colectivo #34; from Subte Línea “D” Palermo station take colectivo #161 Museo de Motivos Populares Argentinos José Hernández (José Hernández Museum of Argentine Popular Motifs), Avenida del Libertador 2373. Gaucho collection which includes early farm implements and equestrian gaucho outfits. Also paintings and lithographs of the early colonial period and archeological and ethnographic items. The library contains 5000 volumes. Open Wed–Sun 13:00–19:00. Small admission charge, Wed free. Closed February. To get there by colectivo: ° From Subte Línea “A” Perú station #10, #59, and #67 ° From Subte Línea “B” Uruguay station #38 and #102 ° From Subte Línea “C” General San Martín station #10, and Retiro station #92 and #130 ° From Subte Línea “D” Callao station #37, Pueyrredón station #41 and #60, Scalabrini Ortiz station #110, and Bulnes station #128 Museo del Instituto Nacional Sanmartino (Museum of the National San Martín Institute), Mariscal

Palermo

CAPITAL FEDERAL

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Ramón L Castilla near Avenida R M de Aguado. This is a replica of the house in Grand Bourg, France where General San Martín, “The Liberator”, spent his last years in exile. Inside are documents, pictures and reproductions of documents signed by the great general. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–12:00 and 14:00–17:00, Sat and Sun 14:00–17:00 Museo Planetario Municipal Galileo Galilei (Galileo Galilei Planetary Museum), Avenida Belisario Roldán near Sarmiento in Parque Palermo. On exhibit are old watches, early theodolites, and models of the stars of our solar system. Open Sat and Sun 15:00–20:30. Admission $4.00 Parque Tres de Febrero, popularly known as the Parque Palermo (Palermo Park), features magnificent avenues. It is renowned for its rose gardens, Andalusian patios, and Japanese garden. The Palermo race course, called the Hipódromo Argentino, is also here. Opposite the park are the botanical gardens and the zoo. In the park are the municipal golf club, Buenos Aires lawn tennis club, riding clubs, a polo field, and some popular athletic and fencing clubs. The planetarium, near the park exit, is open Sat and Sun only; from March to November there are shows at 16:30, 18:00, and 19:30, and from

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December to February at 18:00, 19:30, and 21:00; small admission fee Museo Nacional del Jardín Botánico (National Botanical Garden Museum), Las Heras 4102 and Malabia 2690. Part of the botanical garden inside Parque Palermo. Contains a most complete section on Argentine flora. Also samples of indigenous food plants in the herbarium. Open Mon–Fri 07:00–16:00 Jardín Botánico Municipal (Municipal Botanical Gardens), Santa Fe 2951. Enter from Plaza Italia (Subte Línea “D” from Palermo station). Contains specimens from all over the world. Trees native to Argentina form one section of the gardens, which are also full of well-fed stray cats The Jardín Zoológico (Zoo) is next to the botanical gardens and it’s worth seeing. The enclosures for animals like the Patagonian mara (a short-eared hare) are designed to allow them to roam freely Jardín Japonés, Avenida Casares near Avenida Berro, Palermo is inside Parque Palermo. Frequent exhibitions and Japanese cultural events are held here against the backdrop of Japanese garden culture Show grounds, next to the Parque Palermo, where the Argentine rural society holds livestock and agriculture exhibitions each July

PUERTO MADERO

Puerto Madero Maps • #3 San Telmo and Puerto Madero: page 47 • #5 San Nicolás and Puerto Madero: page 51

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uerto Madero is the dock area of Buenos Aires. Neverthless, because of its proximity to the town center many fashionable restaurants have opened there; many of them have also tango shows, dancing, and entertainment. A large part of the barrio is taken up by the Parque Natural y Zona de Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur, a wildlife reserve. From the earliest colonial times this was the port area of Buenos Aires. In 1855 the first modern port constructions began. Nowadays a Puerto Madero

restructuring of the area has begun which will convert Puerto Madero into a model barrio with housing estates, shopping centers, and 92

BUENOS AIRES CITY p Sightseeing

first-class eating places. At the moment there are more than 30 good restaurants, most of them along Avenida Alicia Moreau de Justo.

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E Eating out Restaurants • Agua Dulce, Ing. Huergo 400. Seafood • Bahía Madero, Ave. Alicia M. de Justo 430 • Bice, Ave. Alicia M. de Justo 192 • Cabañas La Lilas, Ave. Alicia M. de Justo 516 • Columbus, Ave. Alicia M. de Justo 292. Argentine cuisine; live music • Dique Cuatro, Ave. Alicia M. de Justo 176. International cuisine; live music • Dominguín, Ave. Alicia M. de Justo 1130. Spanish cuisine; live music • El Mirasol del Puerto, Ave. Alicia M. de Justo 202. Parrilla; live music • Hereford, Ave. Alicia M. de Justo 1140. Parrilla; live music • La Parolaccia de Mare, Ave. Alicia M. de Justo. Seafood • Puerto Sorrento, Ave. Alicia M. de Justo 410

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Buque Museo Fragata Presidente Sarmiento, Puerto Madero Dique No 3; best access from Presidente Perón. It was used as a naval training ship before it was made into a museum. Open daily 09:00–21:00. Admission $2.00 Buque Museo Corbeta A.R.A. Uruguay, Puerto Madero Dique No 4; best access from Garay. During 1877–1880 this sailing ship participated in naval engagements during the civil wars. It was also used as a training ship for cadets. Open daily 09:00–21:00; admission $1.00 Museo de Telecomunicaciones (Telecommunications Museum), Avenida de los Italianos 851; best access from Belgrano via Villaflor. Open Fri–Sun from 15:00–18:00; admission free Parque Natural y Zona de Reserva Ecolólogica Zona Sur, Ave. Tristán Achával Rodríguez 1550. Surrounded on three sides by the Río de la Plata. This wildlife and nature reserve is within walking distance of the downtown area and the city’s skyline forms its backdrop. Open daily 08:00–18:00

RECOLETA

Recoleta Maps • #8 Balnavera and Recoleta: page 57 • #9 Recoleta: page 59 • #10 Recoleta and Palermo: page 61

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ecoleta is a central northern district. The district was once part of the Franciscan Recoleta Convent, hence its name. This has become one of the most elegant inner suburbs of Buenos Aires, with many fashionable restaurants near the Recoleta Cemetery, the hub of the district. The main attraction is the Recoleta Cemetery, a bizarre necropolis where the rich built themselves burial places often from Carrara marble. The tomb of Evita Perón has almost become a national shrine; ask the attendant for directions. Alongside the cemetery is the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Pilar, a monumento nacional. Recoleta is also dotted with first-class hotels and is the preferred location for many embassies and consulates. Patio Bullrich is a major

shopping complex on Avenida del Libertador 750. Major plazas are Plaza Alvear next to Recoleta cemetery, Plaza Naciones Unidas, Plaza 93

Recoleta

CAPITAL FEDERAL J.J. Urquiza with the Museo de Bellas & • Artes, Plaza República de Uruguay, • and Plaza Intendente Alvear where on weekends and holidays an artists • open-air show is held.

Fellini, Paraná 1209 $X. Credit cards. Italian cuisine; live music, Foro Ghandi, Avenida Corrientes 1551. Tanguería Harper’s, Junín 1763 $X. Specialty is seafood, New York atmosphere, daily 12:00–16:00 and 20:00–02:00. InE Eating out ternational cuisine Henry J. Bean’s Bar and Grill, Junín • Restaurants with entertainment 1749. US cuisine; dancing • Café Rix, Paseo del Pilar/ Ave. Hippopotamus, Junín 1787. Credit • Pueyrredón 2501. Local cuisine. Encards. All ages; French cuisine; fortertainment mal; tanguería • Café Victoria, R.M. Ortiz 1865. InterHard Rock Café, Paseo del Pilar/Ave. • national cuisine Pueyrredón 2502. US cuisine; danc• Clásica y Moderna, Avenida Callao ing 892. Bar • Shampoo, Avenida Quintana 362. Restaurants Cabaret • Au Bec Fin, Vicente López 1825. • Contramano, Rodríguez Peña 1082. French cuisine Gay disco • Mora X, Vicente López 2152. French • Africa, Avenida Alvear 1885. Disco; cuisine floor shows & • Caruso, Avenida Pueyrredón 2501 & • Champs Elysées, Avenida $X. Credit cards. Italian cuisine Pueyrredón 2501 Paseo del Pilar $Y. • Cereus, Junín 1155 $X. Credit cards. Credit cards. Open daily 09:00–03:00. International cuisine Entertainment • Clark’s, Junín 1777. International cuisine

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Etoile, R.M. Ortiz 1835

ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 48045275

Caesar Park Buenos Aires, Posadas 1232 ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$TUVXYZ Fax 48191147 @ 48191100 Alvear Palace, Avenida Alvear 1891 ACDEFGHJKLMNPRS$TUVXYZ Fax 48040034 @ 48082100 Park Hyatt Buenos Aires, Posadas 1086 ACDEFGHJKLMNPRS$TUVXYZ Fax 43263032 @ 43261234 Presidente, Cerrito 846 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 48165985 @ 48162222 Plaza Francia, Pasaje Schiaffino 2189 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 48049631 Wilton Palace, Callao 1162 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 48129988 Ayacucho Palace, Ayacucho 1408 AEFGJLPUV @ 48060611 Guido Palace, Guido 1778 AEFGJLPUV @ 48120341 Alfa, Riobamba 1046 AELPV @ 48122889 El Castillo, M.T. de Alvear 1893 AELPV @ 48132046 Prince, Arenales 1627 AELPV @ 48118004 Rich, Bulnes 1247 AELPV @ 49634963

Hospedajes

A Versalles, Arenales 1394 B Lion D’Or, Pacheco de Melo 2019

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Club Sirio Libanés, Pacheco del Melo 1900 $Y.Credit cards. Open Mon–Sat. Lebanese cuisine El Sanjuanino, Posadas 1515. Parrilla Esqueles, Maipú 967 $Y. Credit cards. Open Mon–Sun 11:00–24:00. Chinese cuisine French Bistro, French 2301 $Y. Credit cards. Open daily 08:00–02:00. French cuisine Guadalest, Avenida Santa Fe. Spanish cuisine Jan Toki, Posadas 1029. Basque cuisine José Luis, Ave. Quintana 456. Seafood; Spanish cuisine La Esquina de las Flores, Montevideo 811 $Z. Vegetarian La Gomería, Vicente López 2134. Pizzería La Porcherie, Montevideo 966. French cuisine La Rueda, Avenida Presidente Quintana 456. Parrilla La Tasca de Germán, R.M. Ortiz 1863. Spanish cuisine La Tasca de Plaza Mayor, Posadas 1052. Seafood; Spanish cuisine Lola, R.M.Ortiz 1805. French cuisine Los Inmortales, Avenida Callao 1165. Pizzería Midori, Hotel Caesar Park, Posadas 1232 $X. Japanese cuisine Munich del Pilar, Avenida Pueyrredón 2501 $Z. Credit cards. Open Mon–Sun. International cuisine Munich Recoleta, R.M. Ortiz 1871 $X. International cuisine Pizza Banana, Ayacucho 1425. Pizzería Pizza Cero, Schiaffino 2009. Pizzería Rix Café, Avenida Pueyrredón 2501 Paseo del Pilar. American cuisine Rodi, Vicente López 1900. International cuisine Romanaccio, Avenida Callao 1021. Italian cuisine Sahara Continent, Junín 1735. International cuisine; dancing Teatriz, Riobamba 1220 $Y. Credit cards. International cuisine

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Biblioteca Nacional (National Library), Agüero 2510. The library was founded in 1810. For many years it was in Calle Mexico and only moved in 1992 to its present location in a very modern building overlooking Plaza Ruben Dario. It has a collection of about 500 000 volumes and 12 000 manuscripts, including publications of the Jesuit missions, many in the Guaraní language. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–21:00 Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (National Fine Arts Museum), Avenida Libertador 1473. There are over 300 works on view, including a collection of Argentine painters of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, as well as paintings by Van Gogh, Picasso, Manet, Monet, and Renoir. Open Tues–Sun 13:30–19:30. Small admission charge Museo Roca e Investigaciones Historicas (Roca Museum and Historical Research), Vicente López 2220. The house is a national trust property. Exhibitions are dedicated to the memory of Lieutenant General Julio Argentino Roca and the period of the 1880. On exhibit are the general’s letters, photographs and documents relating to the Conquista del Desierto (Desert Campaign). Was closed for some time — call @ 48032798 for opening hours Iglesia Nuestra Señora del Pilar (Church of the Pillar), built in a delightful garden setting on Calle Junín 1904, is a jewel of colonial architecture dating from 1717. In the side chapel to the left is the image of San Pedro de Alcántara Centro Cultural Recoleta, Junín 1930. Once part of the Franciscan monastery. It houses the small Museo Participativo de Ciencias (Museum of Participating Sciences). Open Mon–Fri 09:00–16:00, weekends 15:00–19:00. Admission $5.00

Recoleta

CAPITAL FEDERAL

Retiro Map #7 Retiro: page 55

RETIRO

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his is a center-north barrio, and because of the major railroad station and bus terminal located here it is the main gateway to the provinces. It is bounded by Montevideo, Uruguay, and Avenida Córdoba. Major hotels, nice restaurants, and cafés abound here. Tourist information kiosks are in Florida. Avenida del Libertador, a show-piece road, starts on Plaza Libertador General San Martín near Estación Retiro. This splendid Avenida runs at first parallel to the railroad line gradually giving way to open space and parks on the north side as it passes first through Recoleta and then through Palermo. From Avenida del Libertador the open space formed by Cerrito, 9 de Julio, and Carlos Pellegrini begins, and goes right through to Plaza Constitución. Plaza Libertador General San Martín is the main Plaza with a large statue of the Liberator. The main shopping street is Calle Florida, which goes right through to Rivadavia in Monserrat; it is for the full length a pedestrian mall. Retiro station, on Plaza Fuerza Aéra Argentina on the corner of Torre de Los Ingleses, is the main railroad station for Buenos Aires. From this station depart passenger train services to Tucumán and Santiago del Estero, and also commuter trains to the outer suburbs. Within walking distance from Retiro station is the Estación Terminal de Omnibus. From here buses go to all provinces in Argentina and neighboring countries. Subte Línea “C” has its starting point opposite Retiro station, to which it is linked by underground passageways.

Retiro

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Restaurants • Bárbaro, Tres Sargentos 415. International cuisine; bar; cosmopolitan atmosphere • Bengal, Arenales 837 $Y. International cuisine • Blue Oyster, M.T. de Alvear 399 $X. Seafood; Spanish cuisine • Cantina Asia, Esmeralda 768. Chinese cuisine • Catalinas, Reconquista 875 $X. Credit cards. French cuisine • Chung King, Paraguay 725 (near Maipú). Chinese cuisine • Dolli, Avenida del Libertador 312. International cuisine • Dora, Avenida L.N. Alem 1016, Spanish cuisine • Downtown Matías, San Martín 979. English cuisine; lunch only • El Figón de Bonilla, Avenida L.N. Alem 673 $X. Credit cards. Spanish cuisine • El Quebracho, Avenida Córdoba 823. Parrilla • El Salmón II, Reconquista 1014. Seafood • Filo, San Martín 975 $Y. Credit cards. Open daily 12:00–24:0. Italian cuisine; bar; entertainment • Florida Garden, Florida 899. Cafetería • Friday’s, San Martín 961. French cuisine • Frontera 34, Esmeralda 943. Mexican cuisine • La Chacra, Córdoba 941 $X. Open Mon–Sun. Credit cards. Parrilla • La Churrasquita, Corrientes 1220. Parrilla • Las Nazarenas, Reconquista 1132 $X. Credit cards. Parrilla

BUENOS AIRES CITY C Accommodation in Retiro Apart hotels ***

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Marriott Plaza, Florida 1005 ACDEFGHJKLMNPRS$TUVXYZ Fax 43183008 @ 43183000 Sheraton Buenos Aires, San Martín 1225 ACDEFGHJKLMNPRS$TUVXYZ Fax 43189346 @ 43189000 Aspen Towers, Paraguay 857 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43132662 @ 43131919 Bisonte, Paraguay 1207 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 48165775 @ 48165770 Carlton, Libertad 1180 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 48120081fax Crillon, Avenida Santa Fe 796 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43129955 @ 43128181 De las Américas, Libertad 1020 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 48160418 @ 48163432 El Conquistador, Suipacha 948 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43283252 @ 43283012 Gran Buenos Aires, M.T. de Alvear 767 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43152243 @ 43123003 Gran Dorá, Maipú 963 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43138134 @ 43127391 Lancaster, Córdoba 405 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVY Fax 43124068 @ 43124061 Principado, Paraguay 481 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43133952 @ 43133022 Regente Palace, Suipacha 964 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43287460 @ 43286800 Sheltown, M.T. de Alvear 742 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43126520 @ 43125070 Embajador, Carlos Pellegrini 1181 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 43265311 @ 43265303 Gran Orly, Paraguay 474 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 43125344 Promenade, M.T. de Alvear 444 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 43125681 Waldorf, Paraguay 450 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 43122071 San Antonio, Paraguay 372 AEFGJLPSUV @ 43125381 Tres Sargentos, Tres Sargentos 345 AEFGJLPUV @ 43126081 Central Córdoba, San Martín 1021 AELPV @ 43128524

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• Lois, Paraguay 487 across from Hotel Orly. International cuisine • Los Chilenos, Suipacha 1024. Seafood Los Inmortales, M.T. de Alvear 1256. Pizzería & • Los Inmortales, M. T. de Alvear 1256. • Italian cuisine Renata, Avenida Santa Fe 975 $X. Credit cards. Vegetarian

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Tasca Tancat, Paraguay 645. Credit cards. Spanish cuisine The Alexandra, San Martín 774. Credit cards. English cuisine Yapeyú, Maipú 383. Credit cards. Parrilla Yin Yang, Paraguay 868. Lunch only; closed Sun. Vegetarian cuisine

Retiro

CAPITAL FEDERAL p Sightseeing

Restaurants with entertainment • Armenonville, Ave. Alvear 1879. Tanguería and shows; dinner and show $95.00 • Caño 14, Talcahuano 975. Tanguería, floor shows, and dancing • D. Gala, Paraguay 459. Italian cuisine; live music • Druid Inn, Reconquista 1040. Irish cuisine; live music • El Aljibe, San Martín 1225. Argentine cuisine; live music & • Hostería del Caballito Blanco, M.T. de Alvear 479. Hungarian cuisine, shows on Saturdays; admission $35.00 & • Karim Club, Pellegrini 1143. Cabaret, floor shows, dancing • King’s Club, Córdoba 937. Cabaret, dancing and strip shows • La Mosca Blanca, Avenida Ramos Mejía 1430 opposite Hotel Sheraton $X. Open daily 12:00–16:00 and 19:00–24:00. Parrilla and international cuisine; dancing & • Piola, Libertad 1078 12:00–24:00 $Y. Credit cards. Italian cuisine; music

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Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano “Isaac Fernández Blanco” (Isaac Fernández Blanco Museum of Spanish-American Art), Suipacha 1422. Large collection of colonial art, including some very fine silverware from Alto Peru and paintings of the Cuzco school. Also a large library on the subject. Open Tues–Sun 15:00–20:00. Closed in January. Admission $1.00; Thursdays free. Subte Línea “C”, Retiro station Museo de Armas (Weapons Museum), Santa Fe 750. Located in the Palacio Paz. On display are weapons from the 12th to the 18th century. The museum has rooms dedicated to General San Martín and also to the Desert campaign. Interesting. Open Tues–Fri 14:00–19:30, also Sat Sun; small admission Museo Nacional Ferroviario, Ave. Del Libertador 405. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–16:00. Admission free Plaza de la Fuerza Aérea, formerly Plaza Británica, in front of Retiro station, features a clocktower modeled on the tower of Westminster presented by the British community Plaza San Martín contains, not surprisingly, a monument to San Martín in the center

SAN NICOLÁS

San Nicolás Maps • #5 San Nicolás and Retiro: page 51 • #6 Balvanera, Monserrat, and San Nicolás: page 53 • #7 Retiro: page 55

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ogether with Monserrat, this barrio is the heart of the tourist district. It has the largest concentration of hotels, restaurants, banks, cinemas, theaters, and tour operators. The main thoroughfare is Avenida 9 de Julio which intersects with Avenidas Santa Fe, Córdoba, Rivadavia, and San Juan. It is the commercial and administrative center of Argentina. On the Cerrito side of Avenida 9 de Julio is Teatro Colón, the South American equivalent of La Scala in Milan. Calle Florida and Calle Lavalle are pedestrian malls which also intersect. In or near Lavalle is the focal

San Nicolás

point of night life in Buenos Aires with many cinemas and cafés. At the northern end of Calle Florida is 98

BUENOS AIRES CITY • Galerías Pacífico, a large shopping complex, and at the extreme ends of & • Florida are tourist information kiosks. The many bars and cafés on • Avenida Corrientes (between Cerrito and Callao) are a popular • meeting place for the city’s bohemians and intellectuals. The whiskerías • and cervecerías serve coffee and alcoholic drinks. • • On Plaza de Mayo is the Catedral Metropolitana with the • tomb of General José de San Martín, the Casa de Gobierno or “Casa • Rosada” (Pink House), and the colo• nial Cabildo from the mid-18th century. On Plaza del Congreso is the • Palacio del Congreso , the legislative assembly. • San Nicolás and Monserrat are served by all five Subte lines, and • buses radiate to all outer suburbs. •

E Eating out

• Restaurants • ABC, Lavalle 545; Open Mon–Fri $X. & • German cuisine • Arturito, Corrientes 1124. Credit • cards. International cuisine • Blab, Florida 325. Credit cards. Inter• national cuisine & • Brizzi, Reconquista 536 $Y. Credit cards. International cuisine • • Cabaña Las Lilas, Avenida Dávila 516 • Cámara de las Sociedades Anónimas, & • Florida 1, 3rd floor. International cuisine • Casa China, Viamonte 1476. Chinese • cuisine • Casa de Corea, Perón 2489 $Y. Korean • cuisine • Chiquilín, Montevideo near Sarmiento, Complejo La Plaza. Inter• national cuisine • Chino, Suipacha 477. Chinese cuisine • • Chiquín, Perón 920. Credit cards. Spanish cuisine; entertainment & • • Cicerón, Reconquista 647, 1st floor. International cuisine • Clark’s II, Sarmiento 645. Credit • cards. International cuisine

99

Confitería Ideal, Suipacha 381. Café; live music; tango instructions De La Cascada, Suipacha 964 $X. Credit cards. International cuisine Edelweiss, Libertad 431 $X. Credit cards. Open Mon–Sun. German cuisine El Ciervo, Corrientes near Callao. German cuisine El Jardín, Suipacha 429 near Corrientes. Vegetarian cuisine El Mundo, Maipú 550. Seafood El Palacio de la Papa Frita, Lavalle 735. Credit cards. Parrilla El Palacio de la Papa Frita, Lavalle 954. Credit cards. Parrilla El Pulpo, Tucumán 400. Spanish cuisine El Recodo, Lavalle 130. Credit cards. International cuisine El Toboso, Avenida Corrientes 1838. International cuisine Grannix, Florida 126. Open for lunch Mon–Fri. Vegetarian cuisine Guerrín, Avenida Corrientes 1368. Pizzería Hotel Claridge, Tucumán 535. International cuisine La Barra, Avenida Córdoba 484. Cafetería La Caballeriza, Avenida Dávila 580 Puerto Madero. Parrilla La Casa de Estebán de Luca, Defensa 1000. Bar La Casa de Luis Cardel, Avenida Corrientes 1660. Tango shows Fri/Sat 23:00 $24.00 La Casona del Nonno, Lavalle 827. Italian cuisine La Estancia, Lavalle 941 $X. Credit cards. Open Mon–Sun. Parrilla; dancing La Paz, Corrientes 1599. Open very late. Café La Pérgola, Hotel Libertador, Avenida Córdoba near Maipú, 3rd floor. German and French cuisine La Robla, Viamonte 1615. Spanish cuisine La Rural, Suipacha 453. Open Sundays. Parrilla La Veda, Florida 1 downstairs $55.00. International cuisine, Tues–Sat tango shows $55.00 Liberarte, Avenida Corrientes 1555. Thurs 22:30. Admission $5.00

San Nicolás

CAPITAL FEDERAL C Accommodation in San Nicolás ***** ***** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** * *

ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$TUVXYZ @ 4314700 ACDEFGHJKLMNPRS$TUVXYZ @ 43228395 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 43820061 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 43223801 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 43223333 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 43203500 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 43252770 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 43934052 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 43126361 fax Lafayette, Reconquista 546 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 3939486 @ 43939081 Regidor, Tucumán 451 ADEFGHJKLMNPS$TUV @/fax 43149516 República, Cerrito 370 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43824008 @ 43825058 Rochester, Esmeralda 542 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43224689 @ 43261805 Salles, Cerrito 208 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43820754 @ 43820090 Savoy, Callao 181 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43727066 @ 43725972 Camino Real, Maipú 572 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 43223162 Cardton, Perón 1555 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 43822463 Columbia Palace, Corrientes 1533 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 43725795 Esmeralda Palace, Esmeralda 527 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 43934620 @ 43934609 Gran Argentino, Carlos Pellegrini 37 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 3453070 @ 43453078 Gran Eibar, Florida 330 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 43250969 @ 43254842 Gran Hotel San Carlos, Suipacha 39 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 43451022 Liberty, Corrientes 628 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 43250260 Normandie, Rodríguez Peña 320 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 43717001 Regis, Lavalle 813 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 43272618 @ 43272605 Concorde, 25 de Mayo 630 AEFGJLPSUV @ 43132018 Gran Hotel de la Paix, Rivadavia 1115 AEFGJLPUV @ 43837140 King’s, Corrientes 623 AEFGJLPSUV Fax 43934012 @ 43228161 Plaza Roma, Lavalle 110 AEFGJLPSUV @ 43111679 Tucumán Palace, Tucumán 384 AEFGJLPSUV @ 43121162 Du Helder, Rivadavia 857 AELPV @ 43453644 El Cabildo, Lavalle 748 AELPV @ 43226695 Claridge, Tucumán 535 Fax 43148022 Libertador Kempinski, Córdoba 680 Fax 43229703 Bristol, Cerrito 286 Fax 43823284 Carsson, Viamonte 650 Fax 43223801 Continental, Roque Sáenz Peña 725 Fax 43221421 Gran Colón, Pellegrini 507 Fax 43203507 Grand Hotel, Tucumán 570 Fax 43266036 Gran King, Lavalle 560 Fax 43934012 Italia Romanelli, Reconquista 647

San Nicolás

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BUENOS AIRES CITY Accommodation in San Nicolás — continued * * * * *

Maipú, Maipú 735 Majestic, Libertad 121 Milán, Montevideo 337 Petit Goya, Suipacha 748 Phoenix, San Martín 780

Hospedajes A A A A B B B

Europa, Mitre 1294 Orense, Mitre 1359 Pirámides, Perón 1473 Suipacha Palace, Suipacha 18 Mediterráneo, Rodríguez Peña 149 O’Rei, Lavalle 733 Sportman, Avenida Rivadavia 1425

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Youth Hostels

@ 43220994 • V & S Youth Hostel Backpackers, Viamonte 887 ABL Email: [email protected]; Subte Línea C, Lavalle station

•

• •

Los Inmortales, Lavalle 746. Pizzería Los Teatros de Buenos Aires, Talcahuano 345. Italian cuisine. Tanguería • Maison Dorée, Viamonte 458. Cabaret, strip show • Memorabilia, Maipú 761. Tanguería • Manantial, Montevideo 556. Vegetarian; closed Sun • Nueva Era, Maipú 650, 1st floor. Vegetarian cuisine • Nuevo Salón La Argentina, B. Mitre 1759, Fri, Sat and Sun from 21:00–03:00. Tanguería; dancing • Nicole de Marseille, Defensa 714. French cuisine • Oriente, Maipú 512. Chinese cuisine & • Pippo’s, Paraná 356. Parrilla, pasta and meat dishes • Pizza Hut, Lavalle 870. Pizzería • Pizzería Roma, Lavalle 888. Italian cuisine Fast food • Lecherísima, Avenida Corrientes 839. • McDonald, Lavalle 964 • Pumpernic, Suipacha 530 • Pumpernic, Avenida Corrientes 774. • Pumpernic, Florida 356 • Richmond, Florida 468 between Lavalle and Corrientes. Chess tournaments in downstairs lounge. Café • Rocinante, Pellegrini 715. International cuisine • The London Grill, Reconquista 455. English cuisine

Young Man’s Bar, Avenida Córdoba 800. Bar

n Entertainment

•

Palacio de Gobierno de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires, Bolívar 1. On Sundays free tango concerts beginning at 18:00 in the Salón Dorado

p Sightseeing

•

•

•

101

Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Merced (Our Lady of Mercy Church), at Reconquista 207 corner of Perón, was founded in 1604 and rebuilt in 1732. The wooden figure of Christ was carved by an Indian in Misiones Province during the eighteenth century Bolsa de Comercio (Stock Exchange), built in 1916, is a handsome building in Calle 25 de Mayo 359, on the corner of Sarmiento. It contains the stock exchange and grain and produce markets Catedral Metropolitana, Rivadavia 437, on the north side of Plaza de Mayo, flanked by the former residence of the archbishop. It occupies the site of the first church in Buenos Aires. Reconstruction of the cathedral began in 1677; it collapsed in 1753, and the rebuilding was not comp l e t e d u n t i l 1 8 2 3 . T h e e i g hteenth-century towers were never completed. The imposing tomb of General José de San Martín, known as

San Nicolás

CAPITAL FEDERAL

•

•

•

•

•

•

the Liberator, is within the cathedral also; it was built in 1878.The changing of the guard is Mon–Fri at 09:00, 11:00, 13:00, 15:00 and 17:00; fewer on Saturdays Centro Cultural General San Martín, Sarmiento 1551. In this building is the Teatro General San Martín and the Dirección General de Turismo del Gobierno de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires Museo de Arte Moderno (Museum of Modern Art), Ave. Corrientes 1530, 7th floor. This is a sub-branch of the main museum in Ave. San Juan, in San Telmo. Here is a library specializing in contemporary plastic arts. Open Tues–Sun 12:00–20:00. Admission $1.00. Subte Línea “B”, Uruguay station. Closed in January Museo de Arte Lirico e Instrumentos Musicales del Teatro Colón (Museum of the Colón Theater), Tucumán 1161. It traces the history of the Teatro Colón. There are two sections, the instrument section and the wardrobe section of costumes worn in early century performances. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–16:00 Museo Histórico y Numismatico del Banco de la Nación Argentina (Historic and Numismatic Museum of the Banco de la Nación Argentina), San Martin 275 1st floor in the bank’s head office. It traces the origins of Argentina’s economic development. On exhibit are share certificates from the 1800s, coins and banknotes, and early models of safes. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–15:00 Museo Numismatico “Arturo Jauretche”(Arturo Jauretche Coin Museum), Sarmiento 362. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–18:00 and Sun 14:00–18:00

San Nicolás

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102

Museo Nacional Mitre (National Mitre Museum), San Martín 336. This was the residence of President Bartolomé Mitre, now a national trust property. Dedicated to the memory of Bartolomé Mitre, soldier and statesman during a turbulent period in Argentina’s history. On exhibit are the original furniture, documents, and pictures. Open Mon–Fri 13:30–18:30. Admission $1.00. Closed January Plaza de la República has a 67-meter obelisk (”El Obelisco”) at the junction of Diagonal Norte and the Avenida Corrientes Plaza General Lavalle has second-hand book stalls at the Calle Lavalle end Teatro Colón: One of the world’s great opera houses overlooks Avenida 9 de Julio. The main entrance is on Libertad, between Tucumán and Viamonte. The Colón’s interior is resplendent with red plush and gilt, and its vast stage is almost a block wide. The various salons, dressing-rooms, and banquet halls are all sumptuously decorated. Free guided tours run every day at half-hour intervals, but book in advance @ 4355414, 4355415, and 4355416. The theater is closed Jan–Feb. Formal wear is expected at gala performances. Tickets are available three days before performances on the Calle Tucumán side of the theater. It was opened in 1908 Teatro Cervantes, Libertad 815. Guided tours Wed, Thurs, and Fri at 14:00. Admission $4.00. Closed December, January and February Teatro Presidente Alvear, Corrientes 1659 @ 43746076. Tango concerts every Thursday at 13:00

BUENOS AIRES CITY

SAN TELMO

San Telmo Maps #2 San Telmo: page 44 • #3 San Telmo and Puerto Madero: page 47 •

S

an Telmo is the entertainment and bohemian quarter of Buenos Aires. But it also has many museums and attractive parks and a few hotels. There are many tanguerías and Italian-style restaurants, most of them with entertainment. •

In 1806 San Telmo was at the pinnacle of the resistance movement against the British invasion. The heart of San Telmo is Plaza Dorrego with its Sunday flea market. San Telmo is close to the hydrofoils to Uruguay on Pedro de Mendoza. There are still a few late colonial buildings and Rosista buildings (that is, built during the office of Presidente Rosas). The area is centered around Calle Independencia, along the slope which leads down to the old beach of the Río de la Plata. It is an established artistic center and a charming area with plenty of cafés and tanguerías.

E •

El Repecho de San Telmo, Carlos Calvo 242. Credit cards. International cuisine • Hostal del Canigo, Chacabuco 863. International cuisine • La Crevette, San Juan 639 (in the tennis club rooms). Credit cards. Seafood; French cuisine Eating out and entertainment Bands usually start playing at about 23:30. Most places open Fri, Sat, and Sun, and have a cover charge. • A Media Luz, Chile 316. Tanguería Tues–Sat 22:30. Admission $25.00 • Acapulco Mío, Defensa 740. Italian cuisine; show • Bar Sur, Estados Unidos 299. Italian cuisine. Tanguería, shows, and dancing; Mon–Sun 19:00–04:00. Admission $15.00 • Calle de Ángeles, Chile 318. ArgenEating out tine cuisine; live music Antigua Tasca de San Fermín, Carlos & • Caminito, Balcarce 759. Continuous Calvo 319. Spanish cuisine tango shows daily 22:30–04:00, $15.00 • El Goce Pagano, Piedras 375. Argentine cuisine; dancing

C Accommodation in San Telmo ****

Los Dos Chinos, Brazil 780 Fax 43005807

Hospedajes

B Victoria, Chacabuco 726 B Carly, Humberto I 464

ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 43002020 @ @

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43612135 43617710

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Youth hostels

• Albergue Juvenil, Brasil 675 AFILV @ 43009321 $J 1 Fax 43073014; e-mail: [email protected]; Web site: www.hostelling-aaaj.org.ar; 90 beds; Subte Línea C, Estación Constitución railroad station; YHA members only • El Hostal de San Telmo, Carlos Calvo 614 ABIL @ 43006899 $J 1 Fax 43009028; e-mail: [email protected]; e-mail messages received and sent; shared bathrooms. Subte Línea “C”, San Juan or Independencia stations

103

San Telmo

CAPITAL FEDERAL • & • • • • & • • • •

El Viejo Almacén, Balcarce 799. Shows 22:00, $40.00–$60.00. Tanguería; dancing La Convención, Carlos Calvo 375 $X. Credit cards. Tango shows; French cuisine La Cumparsita,Chile 302. Tango and shows 22:30– 04:00. Admission $30.00 Los Dos Pianitos, J M Giuffra 305. Tanguería. Tango shows, dancing, informal Molière Café, Chile 299. Argentine cuisine; dancing Pilote 8, Avenida Dávila 850 Puerto Madero $X. Credit cards. International cuisine; live shows Taconeango, Balcarce 725. Tanguería, shows, dancing. Admission $20.00 Unión Bar, Balcarce 807. Tanguería Viejos Tiempos, Balcarce 989. Tanguería

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•

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S Buses

From the downtown area there are many bus services. The best place to catch a bus to San Telmo is at L.N. Alem station of Línea “B” near the central post office. Colectivos #4, #20, #22,# 28, #33, #54, #61, #62,#74, #93, #126, #130, #143, #152, #159 set down in the area bounded by Avenidas Ing. Huergo, Brasil, Perú, and Belgrano.

•

p Sightseeing •

Museo Histórico Nacional (National History Museum), Defensa 1600 in Parque Lezama. The rooms are divided into periods of Argentine history: discovery, conquest, Jesuit missions, the colonial era, the wars of independence, and national heroes.

San Telmo

104

The memorabilia of San Martín include some of his furniture from his house-in-exile in Boulogne sur Mer in France. Open Tues–Fri and Sun 15:00–19:00; closed January, February Museo de Telecomunicaciones (Telecommunications Museum), Avenida de los Italianos 851. On exhibit are milestones in technical advancement. Belongs to the Empresa Telecom Argentina. Open Fri–Sun 14:00–18:00; closed December 16– January 31 Museo de Arte Moderno (Modern Art Museum), Avenida San Juan 350 (a section of this museum is at Corrientes 1530). The building was previously a tobacco warehouse. On display are paintings by Utrillo, Matisse, Dali, Picasso, and Renoir. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–20:00 and weekends 12:00–20:00 Parque Lezama, corner of Calles Defensa and Brazil. Once one of the most beautiful in the city, this park is now somewhat run-down. It has an imposing statue of Pedro de Mendoza, the founder of the original city in 1535. Tradition has it that the first founding took place on this very spot Feria de San Telmo. Held Sundays 10:00 to 17:00 on Plaza Dorrego, located on HumbertoI and Defensa. This is a colorful flea-market where you can buy old books, clothes, postcards, and antiques. Around the plaza are bars which have their tables on the street, and the area is filled with street musicians and singers. The local community organizes dances

PAMPA

PROVINCES

The pampas (a Quechua word) in Argentina applies to the vast fertile grasslands stretching from the Atlantic coast west to the Cuyo provinces. This flat area with a fairly even rainfall is the granary of Argentina. It encompasses the provinces of Buenos Aires, La Pampa, Córdoba, and Santa Fe. 105

BUENOS AIRES BAMPA P Buenos UENOSP Aires A ROVINCES IRES

Plate 3 108 110 111 112 116 117 118 120 121 121 123 125 126 127 129 129 130 131 133 133 134 135 138 136 140 142 143 145 146 148

Map of Buenos Aires Province Azul ABCDEnJKUSTWXYahipqrs Map t Bahía Blanca ABCEJKLRSTUVaeipsf Map Bahía San Blas ACESUWes~ Balcarce BCESps Baradero BCDEnJKMSUT#Wefgp Map Bragado Campana BCDEFJKSTpqrs Carhué ABCDEnJKSUWXapqs Carmen de Patagones BCEnJKRSUWpqrs Map Chascomús BCDEnSapsqr Chivilcoy Claromecó ABCDEnJKSUaepsf Map General Lavalle ABCDESWaps Guaminí CSTae Junín ABCDEJKSTUWaegps Map La Plata ABCEnJKSTUaps Map of city center Map of Paseo del Bosque Lobos ABCDEnJKSTaps Map Luján ABCEnJKSTUWapqf Map Mar de Ajó BDEnJKLSas Map

106

BUENOS AIRES ABCDEnJKLMRSTUVW#aiop rs Map of metropolitan area Map of center north Map of city center Map bus terminal area Map from Cabo Corrientes to Puerto de Mar del Plata Mar del Sur BCEIYas Mar del Tuyú ABCDEnJKSp Miramar BCDEnJKLMNSTUWYaegiop Map qs Monte Hermoso ABCDEnJKILSeps Map Necochea ABCDEnILRSUTWaeghops Map of metropolitan district Map of city center Map of the beach area Olavarría BCEnJKSUTWaps Pehuajó Pehuen Có CDEnISa Pergamino Ca Pilar a Pinamar ABCDEnJKLMRSTUasfhio Map San Antonio de Areco ABCDEnJKNSTUYapqrs Map San Bernardo BDEnILMSs Map San Clemente del Tuyú ABCDEnJKLMSUWaps Map San Miguel del Monte BCDEnMSap Map San Nicolás de los Arroyos Map ABCEnSUWapqs San Pedro ABCEnJKMSUWpqs Santa Clara del Mar ABDEnISaps Santa Teresita ABDEnILMRSas Sierra de la Ventana ABCEJKSUaes Map Tandil ABCDEnJKLMSUWaegiopqs Map Tigre BDEST#aps Map Tres Arroyos BCDEnJKLSUWaps Villa Gesell ABCDEnJKLMNRSUWXailps Map Zárate BCEnJKSUTaps

150 Mar del Plata 150 158 160 162 165 166 167 168 169 173 165 176 177 177 181 184 186 186 187 187 188 189 194 195 197 198 200 201 204 204 206 207 208 210 211 214 215 218 219 222 224 225 228 229 234

107

Buenos Aires

PAMPA PROVINCES C

235 Stopovers 241 Golf courses

uenos Aires is Argentina’s largest and most populous province. It covers 307 000 square kilometers (118530 square miles). The provincial capital is La Plata, 56 km west of the the federal capital Buenos Aires. Buenos Aires Province forms part of the pampa, and is therefore mainly flat country. The exceptions are two small mountain ranges: the Sierra de Tandil near the town of the same name and the Sierra de la Ventana near the town of Tornquist, the highest elevation being 1136 m. Most of the Sierra de la Ventana is incorporated in the Parque Provincial Ernesto Tornquist.

B

During the 1860s railroad lines were built from Buenos Aires city, opening up the newly conquered regions to the south. European settlement followed closely. Most of Argentina’s worldrenowned seaside resorts are located in Buenos Aires Province. The most famous is Mar del Plata, closely followed by Necochea 125 km further south and Villa Gesell further north. In Buenos Aires Province the gauchos cling to their traditions more than in any other province. Nearly every week a fiesta is held somewhere in the province, to which the gauchos on their horses congregate from far and near. Buenos Aires shares borders with Río Negro to the south, La Pampa, San Luis, Córdoba and Santa Fe to the west, and Entre Ríos

to the north. To the east it is bounded by the Atlantic Ocean. In a number of towns, the streets have numbers instead of names, such as “Calle 33” (Thirty-Third Street). In these cases, the building numbers are separated from the number of the street by a dash, as in “Calle 33–312” (312 Thirty-Third Street).

Golf in Buenos Aires Province This province has the highest concentration of golf courses in Argentina. Many golf courses are of excellent standard where international tournaments are held. In some cases golf courses form part of a polo ranch. At the end of this chapter is a list of towns not described separately, which have a golf course either in town or nearby.

AZUL

Azul Population: 52 000 Postal code: 7300 @ area code: (02281) Altitude: 137 m Distance from Buenos Aires: 287 km south on RN 3

Azul

108

BUENOS AIRES

A

zul is a thriving agricultural center with a few low hills to the south-west. Founded in 1832 as an outpost against Indians it was initially known as Fuerte San Serapio Mártir del Arroyo Azul. The Arroyo Azul, which flows through the city center, marked until 1829 the western limit of Argentine expansion into the pampas. The riverside has been developed into a waterfront recreation area where swimming is popular. The wide streets, such as San Martín, make Azul quite distinctive. The Nuestra Señora del Santo Rosario cathedral built in neo-Gothic style was completed in 1906. • •

In the vicinity of Azul are three golf courses.

Los Vascos, Mitre 115 Terminal, in the bus terminal, Avenida Mitre near Caneva Cafeterías • Carie’s San Martín near Moreno • Le Coin, Avenida 25 de Mayo near Irigoyen • Picasso, Uriburu near Irigoyen. Bar Eating out on RN 3 • Restaurant Isaura, attached to the service station, KM 298 • Restaurant La Estrella, RN 3 KM 299

A Festivals • • • •

Campeonato de Kayaks (Kayak Championship): February Fiesta de la Carne Vacuna Argentina (Argentine Beef Festival): May Exposición de Caballos Criollos (horse show with horsemanship): September Rally Provincial del Automovilismo: November

n Entertainment

B Tourist information •

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Dirección Municipal de Deporte y Turismo, 25 de Mayo 619 @ 431751 fax 431796. organizes local tours

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D Camping •

Camping Municipal, in the Balneario Municipal, Moreno Prolong. Sur; 150 tents AEFL $J 1; albergue $J 1

Cine Universal, Bolívar near Burgos Disco Gato Pardo, Avenida Pellegrini near Misiones Disco Mamut, 25 de Mayo near San Martín

I Post and telegraph

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E Eating out

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Restaurants • Alumni, San Martín 333 • Catriel, Yrigoyen 360 • Dime, Uriburu near Humberto I • La Marca de Burgos, Maipú 663

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Yrigoyen near 25 de Mayo Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, Yrigoyen near Uriburu

U Motoring

Service station: Shell, Avenida 25 de Mayo 850

C Accommodation in Azul Hotels *** **

Gran Azul, Colón 626 Dior, Avenida Mitre 950

Hospedajes A A A A A

Blue, Avenida Mitre 983 Cervantes, Cáneva 530 Grand’s, Necochea 674 Roma, Bolívar 563 Victoria, San Martín 983

Accommodation on RN 3 *

Hotel La Estrella, KM 299

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Azul

PAMPA PROVINCES S Buses from Azul

The bus terminal is on Avenida Mitre block 1000 near J.B. Alberdi. Bus companies • El Rápido Argentino @ 433077 • Expreso Caraza @ 424023 • La Estrella @ 422438 • Liniers @ 424023 • Plusmar @ 433077 • Río Paraná @ 424023/434749 Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fares Bahía Blanca Bariloche Buenos Aires $15.00 Junín $20.00 La Plata Mar del Plata $28.00 Olavarría Santa Rosa (La Pampa) $28.00 Tandil $6.50 Viedma

Services 8 daily 3 weekly 20 daily 1 daily 8 daily 18 daily 4 daily

Duration Bus companies 12 hrs La Estrella La Estrella 4 hrs La Estrella, Liniers El Rápido Argentino La Estrella 6 hrs La Estrella, El Rápido Argentino La Estrella

1 daily 5 daily 1 daily

El Rápido Argentino El Rápido Argentino La Estrella

T Trains

a Sport

The Ferrobaires station is in the San Martín extension near Cáneva • Buenos Aires: 03:40; return 21:00

Golf • Golf Club Azopardo, Arsenal Naval Azopardo @ (02281) 424882 • Golf Club Azul, RN 3 KM 298 @ (02281) 422908 • Cerámica San Lorenzo Golf Club, Ave. Circunvalación @ 426080/6081 Sport in Tapalqué • Golf Club Tapalqué, RP 51 54 km north @ (02283) 420130

Y Shopping

The main shopping streets are Calle Yrigoyen and Calle San Martín. Shopping centers Galería Piaza and Galería Alsina.

p Sightseeing

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AZUL To Tandil

Azul

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Casa del Cacique Catriel, corner of Colón and Corrientes. The Indian Cacique Catriel was the advancing Argentine army’s main adversary during the Desert Campaign. After his defeat he settled in Azul Museo Etnográfico y Archivo Histórico Dr. Enrique Squirru (Dr. Enrique Squirru Ethnographic Museum and Historic Archives), B.J.Ronco near San Martín. Open Wed–Fri 09:00–12:00, Sat and Sun 17:00–21:00 Museo de Ciencias Naturales CITAC (CITAC Natural Science Museum), Parque Municipal D.F. Sarmiento.

BUENOS AIRES •

•

Samples of local flora and fauna of the province Parque Municipal D.F. Sarmiento, corner of Colón and Guaminí: 22 ha (54 acres) of park land planted with different varieties of trees and plants

s Excursions

•

Tour operators • Azul Mundus, San Martín near 25 de Mayo @ 423054 fax 426372 Excursions • City walk. Includes center, Costanera Cacique Catriel, Casa Ronco, Casa López Claro, Parque Municipal, Teatro Español, Museo Histórico. Duration 4 hours

Boca de las Sierras: Rolling hills 30 km to the south on RP 80, on the road to Pablo Acosta. Another 12 km further on is the Monasterio Cisterciense Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles (Our Lady of the Angels Cistercian Monastery). With tour operator, 4 hours Camino de la Galera San Julián: This is an excursion through flat pampa country visiting the forts of Minana and Otamendi, the archeological site of La Moderna and Laguna La Barrancosa. With tour operator, 8 hours

BAHÍA BLANCA

Bahía Blanca Population: 265 000 Postal code: 8000 @ area code: (0291) Distances • From Buenos Aires: 657 km south-west on RN 3 • From Viedma: 286 km northward on RN 3

B

ahía Blanca is located on the Río Naposta, which flows into the Bahía Blanca (“White Bay”) nearby. The city’s origin goes back to the foundation of Fortaleza Protectora Argentina in 1828 as a fort protecting the border against the Indians. Bahía Blanca is the third largest city in Buenos Aires Province. The city itself is some distance from the bay, and its five ports are strung out along the bay’s northern side, Puerto Galván, Puerto Belgrano, and Puerto Ingeniero White being the most important. There is an important petrochemical complex fed by the Río Negro pipeline. Owing to its importance and strategic location, Bahía Blanca is well served by frequent bus and air services, and by the Ferrobaires, formerly known as General Roca railroad. The city is laid out in the normal checker-board fashion, with

Parque Rivadavia as its center. There are lakes in Parque de Mayo, and a zoo in Parque Independencia. Between Punta Alta and Pehuen-Có, and even beyond, are extensive unspoilt beaches. Bahía Blanca has its own Teatro Municipal and symphony orchestra, and is home of the Ballet del Sur. Included under Bahía Blanca is the seaside resort Punta Alta. Although a naval base, there are extensive beaches, and the tourist facilities include a four-star hotel. Empresa Punta Alta runs regular bus services from Bahía Blanca.

111

Bahía Blanca

PAMPA PROVINCES PATRICIOS

To Sierra de la Ventana

To Santa Rosa CASANOVA

35

BLANDENGUES

CARONTI 1

ROCA

11 DE ABRIL

2

GORRITI 19 DE MAYO

33 3

4

DONADO

AVE. AL

EM

ZAPIOLA

ALVARADO

H.YRIGOYEN 15

DORREGO

C

MITRE

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18

11

16

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17

ALSINA

10

LAMADRID

O'HIGGINS

Plaza Rivadavia

E

SOLER

14

ESTOMBA

LOPEZ

13

9

SARMIENTO

SAN MARTIN

BROWN

OLIVER

SAAVEDRA

BERUTTI

DARREGUEIRA

AVE. COLON 12

D

8

CHICLANA

7

MORENO

DRAGO

6

VIEYTES

GUEMES

CASTELLI

TERADA THOMPSON

To Neuquen

5

VIAMONTE

RONDEAU RODRIGUEZ

20

19

$

BELGRANO

To Viedma

21 23 22

FITZROY

LAS HERAS

24

25

ESPANA

LAVALLE

26

28

27

29 30

VILLARINO

GRAL. PAZ

UNDIANO

BRANDSEN

31

32 36 35 34

ISRAEL 33

3

37

RR

N EG

RD EN

L VA LE

C R PA

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PE R HA

PEDRO PICO

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BA

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LA

Plaza 9 de Julio

LL

ING. LUIGGI

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MISIONES LINIERS

BAHÍA BLANCA To Punta Alta and bus terminal

Bahía Blanca

T

112

NTES

E .C

CORRIE

I

25 DE MAYO

To Buenos Aires

PUEYRREDON

BUENOS AIRES Key to map A C D E I $ T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica Argentina Dirección de Turismo Municipal Casa de Cambio Pullman Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 3 8 10 11 14 16 17 18 22 23 24

Hospedaje Caronti Residencial La Reforma Hotel Austral Hotel Barne Hostería Santa Rosa Hotel Central Muñiz Hospedaje Danny Hotel Italia Hotel Belgrano Hotel Bahía Hotel City Hotel Hotel Argos

25 30 31 34 35 36

Hospedaje Chiclana Hospedaje Bayón Hospedaje Canciller Hospedaje Roma Hospedaje Los Vascos Hospedaje Molinari

4 Eating out 2 4 5 6

7 15 19 21 26 27 28

Restaurant Sergio Pizzería El Gran Caruso Restaurant Munich Restaurant El Mundo de la Pizza Parrilla La Vieja Esquina Restaurant Oriental Restaurant Tasca Pontevedra Restaurant Robertino Restaurant Lavalle Restaurant Taberna Baska Pizzería Il Pirata

29 Restaurant La Crêperie de Michel 32 Restaurant Biscaya 33 Restaurant Parrilla Kundt

6 Airline offices

9 Líneas Aéreas Austral 12 L A D E /S.A.P.S.E.

7 Tour operators and car rental 13 Localiza Rent a Car

9 Sights

20 Museo Histórico y de Ciencias Naturales and Teatro Español

0 Services

37 Ferrobaires rail station

Restaurants • Bizkaya, Soler 783 near Israel • El Sergio, Gorriti 61 • La Creperie de Michel, España 214 Festivals & • Lavalle, Lavalle 30 Nuestra Señora de la Merced (Our • Munich, Moreno 678 Lady of Mercy): September 24 • Oriental, Alsina 280. Chinese cuisine Día de la Tradición (Day of Tradi& • Parrilla Kundt, General Cerri 773 tion): November 10 & • Parrilla La Vieja Esquina, Moreno 202 • Robertino, Donado 58 Tourist information • Taberna Baska, Lavalle 284 Dirección de Turismo Municipal, • Tasca Pontevedra, Lamadrid 191 Alsina 45 (Plaza Rivadavia) @ 4565402

Facilities are included under the relevant sections.

A • •

B •

I Post and telegraph

E Eating out

•

Pizzerías • El Gran Caruso, Rodríguez 130 • El Mundo de la Pizza, Ave. Colón 379 & • Il Pirata, Lamadrid 360

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Moreno 34 Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Sarmiento 159

R Air services from Bahía Blanca

Aeropuerto Comandante Espora is 10 km from the city center. Airport bus fare $5.00. Airlines • Austral Airlines, Avenida Colón 59 @ 4560561 • L.A.D.E., Darregueira 21 @ 4521063 Services • • • • •

Destination Buenos Aires Comodoro Rivadavia Río Gallegos Río Grande Viedma

Services 4 daily 1 daily 1 daily 1 daily 1 daily

Duration 1 hr 1 hr 3 hrs 4 hrs 5 hrs

113

Airline AU AU AU AU AU

Bahía Blanca

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Bahía Blanca Hotels

@

4550404 fax

$E

2

@

4561700

$E/F

2

@ @ @ @

4553050 fax 4530176 fax 4562700 fax 4560060

$G 2 $F 2 $F/G 2

@

4530864

$G

2

@ @

4565446 fax 4520522

$G

2

AEFGJLPSUV

@

4520012 fax

$F

2

LP LP LP LP

@ @ @ @ @ @

4522504 4538270 4538584 4530436 4510845 4564818

$H $G $G $G

2 2 2 2

@

4522871

$H

2

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4529290 4522452

$H

2

@

4538500

$H

2

@

4886851

$F

2

Argos, España 149 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: [email protected] *** Austral, Colón 159 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: [email protected] ** Bahía, Chiclana 251 AEFGJLPUV ** City Hotel, Chiclana 228 AEFGJLPUV ** Italia, Brown 181 AEFGJLPUV ** Muñiz, O’Higgins 23 AEFGJLPSUV Fax 4523833 E-mail: [email protected] * Barne, H Yrigoyen 270 AELPV Fax 4550513 * Belgrano, Belgrano 44 AELPV • Victoria, General Paz 84 ***

Hosterías **

Santa Rosa, Sarmiento 373

Hospedajes A Bayón, Chiclana 487 A Canciller, Brown 667 A Caronti, Caronti 369 A Chiclana, Chiclana 370 A El Galeón, Belgrano 693 A La Reforma, Rondeau 39 A Los Vascos, Cerri 719

LP Opposite rail station Molinari, Cerri 747 ELP Opposite rail station Del Sur, Rodríguez 80 Roma, Cerri 759 LP Opposite rail station; shared bathrooms cheaper

A A A

Accommodation on RN 3 Motels **

Villa Bordeau A.C.A., Ave. Sesquicentenario near RN 35 ABCEFHKL

Accommodation in Punta Alta Hotels ****

Punta Alta, Mitre 368

Center, Mitre 340 • Residencial Belgrano, Rosales 171 • Residencial Calpe, J.J. Paso

***

ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ @ @

L Financial •

Trains from Buenos Aires City on page 74.

Casa de Cambio Pullman, San Martín 171. Takes all travelers’ checks

U Motoring

T Trains

RN 3 south to Viedma is a first-class sealed highway.

The Ferrobaires station is at Cerri 750, six blocks from the city center @ 421168. The line continues to San Carlos de Bariloche via San Antonio Oeste. For services see Bahía Blanca

(02932) 421787 (02932) 430956 (02932) 421328 (02932) 430449

114

BUENOS AIRES S Buses from Bahía Blanca

The bus terminal (a former rail station) is at Brown 1700 near Estados Unidos, 21 2 km from the city center). There are no hotels nearby. Take bus 515 to the city center and rail station. The bus stop for local buses 515 and 517 is on the corner of Brown and Remedios de Escalada. Several tour operators run regular Kombi services to destinations in the Bahía Blanca hinterland. Bus companies • Andesmar ° Mendoza (16 hrs) via General San Martín, Santa Rosa (41 2 hrs), Realicó, Villa Mercedes, and San Luis • Central Argentino @ 4813610 • Don Otto • El Cóndor @ 4818494 • El Rápido @ 4813118 • Ñandú del Sur ° Córdoba via Punta Alta, Pigüé,Guaminí (4 hrs), Rufino, Laboulaye, and La Carlota; 2 daily • T.A.C. @ 4819621 • TICSA @ 4816303 • Via Bariloche, Necochea 1050 @ 4817673 ° Bariloche via Neuquén Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Carhué $10.00 Bariloche $60.00 Buenos Aires $30.00 Comodoro Rivadavia $47.00 Córdoba $39.60 Esquel Guaminí $9.90 Junín de Los Andes La Plata Mar del Plata $27.00 Miramar Monte Hermoso Necochea $17.60 Neuquén $30.00 Puerto Madryn $27.70 Río Gallegos $85.00 Rosario San Antonio Oeste $26.40 San Juan San Luis Santa Fe Santa Rosa Sierra de la Ventana Tandil Trelew $45.00 Viedma $17.70 Zapala $34.10

Services 3 daily 8 daily 3 daily 3 daily 4 weekly 4 daily 2 daily

4 daily 4 daily 2 daily 4 daily 6 daily 1 daily 1 daily 3 daily 4 daily 2 daily 4 daily 5 daily 4 daily

Duration 31 2 hrs 14 hrs 10 hrs

Company Ñandú del Sur La Estrellal, El Sureño, El Valle Don Otto, La Estrella–La Puntual

15 hrs Don Otto, La Estrella, T.A.C. 15 hrs TUS, Don Otto 4 hrs Empresa Colón La Estrella, El Petróleo La Estrella, Río Paraná 7 hrs El Pampa El Pampa La Acción El Pampa 8 hrs La Estrella, El Valle 10 hrs Don Otto, Central Argentino 10 hrs Don Otto, T.A.C. Don Otto, Central Argentino 8 hrs Don Otto, La Estrella T.I.C.S.A. T.I.C.S.A. Costera Criolla, Central Argentino, 41 2 hrs Andesmar, TUS La Estrella Río Paraná 12 hrs Don Otto, T.A.C.,La Estrella 5 hrs La Estrella, Don Otto, TUS 12 hrs El Valle

115

Bahía Blanca

PAMPA PROVINCES Car rental • A1 Rent a Car, Lamadrid 181, @ 4537024 • Localiza Rent a car, Avenida Colón 138 @ 428681

•

a Sport Golf • Pago Chico Club de Campo, RP 229 KM 15 @ (0291) 428681/438365 • Palihue Golf Club, Cerrito-Bo, Parque Palihue @ 424514/443742 Sport in Puerto Belgrano Puerto Belgrano is 23 km east of Bahía Blanca. • Golf Club Puerto Belgrano, Base Naval Puerto Belgrano @ (02932) 487915

p Sightseeing •

•

•

Museo Histórico y de Ciencias Naturales (History and Natural Science Museum), Dorrego 116. Collection of historic documents, photographs and objects linked to the evolution of the city. Also archeological and ethnographic material on Patagonia is exhibited Other museums: Museo Ezequiel Martínez Estrada, Avenida Alem 908; Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes, Alsina 65

•

s Excursions •

•

Balneario Villa del Mar, 27 km south-east for fishing enthusiasts; Punta Alta 31 km south-east with the

naval base. Both destinations can be reached with local buses Sierra de la Ventana: 100 km north. The range is partly within the Parque Provincial Ernesto Tornquist. Its highest point is Cerro de la Ventana at 1136 m, in sharp contrast with the green farm lands below. Near the peak is a rock opening (ventana or “window”), to which wind erosion has given a freakish appearance. A scenic drive runs from Tornquist along RP 176 beside the Río de la Ventana through the Ventana gorge. There are frequent bus and train services. Fishing and golf are popular. Empresa El Cóndor runs buses to Tornquist for $1.80 and to Sierra de la Ventana for $2.50. See also Sierra de la Ventana on page 214 Monte Hermoso: 106 km west. A beach resort; take RN 3 then turn onto RN 78. During the vacation season, which runs from December to February, buses run there frequently. Outside the vacation season most establishments are closed. Empresa La Acción company runs regular buses between 05:00 and 18:00; the two-hour trip costs $2.40. See also Monte Hermoso on page 173 Pehuen Có: A beach resort 84 km westwards on RN 3. See page 186 Termas Los Gauchos: 161 km south of Bahía Blanca off RN 3 near the village of Villalonga. This is a fledgling thermal resort. See Excursions from Carmen de Patagones on page 127

BAHÍA SAN BLAS

Bahía San Blas Postal code: 8506 @ area code: Operator-connected; dial 19 Distance from Viedma: 90 km north-east

B

ahía San Blas is located on Isla Jabalí in the Bahía Anegada and is the southernmost seaside resort in Buenos Aires Province. The turnoff from RN 3 is at KM 918. The island is 15 km long and 6 km wide; it is linked by a bridge to the mainland. It is popular during the

Bahía San Blas

summer months, its main attractions being fishing and the sandy beaches.

116

BUENOS AIRES E Eating out

The hub of the town is the Avenida Costanera, where there are hotels, restaurants, post office, and public telephones. Bahía San Blas comes to life at the beginning of December for about four months. Most hotels are shut during the off-season. Bahía San Blas is the gateway to the Bahía Anegada with its rich birdlife and fishing opportunities.

• • •

S Buses

Buses run regularly between Bahía Blanca, Viedma, and Carmen de Patagones.

U Motoring

•

A Festivals •

•

Las 24 Horas de San Blas: A fishing competition held on the third Saturday in January in conjunction with the Fiesta Patronal de San Blas Fiesta de la Corvina Rubia: February 3. Fishing competition

• • • • •

Service station: A.C.A., Calle 28 near Avenida 4

s Excursions

•

C Accommodation *

Restaurant Mike, Avenida Costanera, @ 499233. Also accommodation Restaurant Club Jorge Newbery, Avenida Costanera Cafetería El Galpón. Dancing

Hostería San Blas, Avenida Costanera AELPV @ 499219 $I 1 Residencial Club Jorge Newbery, Avenida Costanera @ 499231 Residencial La Posta del Jabalí, Avenida Costanera @ 499267 Cabaña de Toty, Avenida Costanera near Calle 35 E Cabañas del Pescador, Avenida Costanera near Calle 33 @ 499288 E. Also fishing cruises Private Juan Pedro Sarquis @ 499222. Also fishing cruises

Bahía Anegada is an area of 386 000 ha (953 825 acres) consisting of marshes and beaches along the coast. The bay is full of islands, the biggest ones being Isla de los Césares, Isla Flamenco, Isla de los Riachos, Isla Gama, and Isla Jabalí. Isla Jabalí is the southernmost island. These islands were created by the sediments of the Río Negro which breaks up into several channels. The many mouths of the Río Negro are the northern limit of the wilderness area; the southern limit is at Punta Rubia. Much of the Bahía Anegada has been declared a wildlife reserve

BALCARCE

Balcarce Population: 33 000 Postal code: 7620 @ area code: (02266) Altitude: 108 m Distances • From Buenos Aires 407 km south on RN 2 and RP 55 • From Mar del Plata: 69 km westwards on RN 226

B

alcarce is located in a hilly, pine-forested area with many streams. Juan Fangio the great racing driver was born here. Sights include Iglesia San José built in 1886 with two steeples: one is the clock tower, the other contains the church bells. Near Sierras El Volcán, some 49 km distant on RN 229, is a satellite tracking station. 117

Balcarce

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Balcarce Hotels *** **

Gran Balcarce, Calle 16–646 Albergini, Ave. Kelly 688

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AEFGJLPUV

Residenciales

A San José, Avenida González Chávez 485 LP B Victoria, Calle 19–536

B Tourist information •

Subsecretaría de Turismo, Avenida Suipacha 931 @ 422617 fax

Restaurants • La Barra, Avenida Cháves 432 • Ruta 55, Avenida Centenario near Calle 39 • El Cerrito, Calle 21 near 14. Pizzería • La Casona, Cháves near Calle 13 • Los Picapiedras, Del Valle near Calle 14. Pizzería

$F $G

2 2

@ @

422533 422545

$H $G

2 2

s Excursions Tour operators • Balcarce Turismo, Calle 21–529 @ 424126 fax 430908 • Hombre y Naturaleza Aventuras, calle 13–882 @ 422181. Specialises in outdoor activities Excursions • Cinco Dedos hills: Not very high, but the rock outcrops are peculiarly shaped • Sierra de Bachicha, located north-west of the town is a hilly area of not more than 380 m, but has great natural beauty: easy trekking on trails along mountain streams and ferns • Sierra La Barrosa and Laguna Brava: 35 km east on RN 226. In the sierra is the Autódromo Municipal Juan Manuel Fangio, named in honor of the famous car-racing driver. On Laguna Brava there are two serviced camping areas with boat ramps, boat hire, and hot water. Camping Ruca Lauquen has a small restaurant

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Avenida San Martín near 109. Bus companies Empresa San Martín to Coronel Vidal; El Rápido Argentino; Empresa Mar del Plata–Córdoba; Tirsa; El Rápido @ 431858; Costera Criolla; Automotores Mercedes. Long-distance services • Bariloche via Neuquén • Buenos Aires (6 hrs); 4 daily • Mar del Plata

p Sightseeing

Centro Technológico–Cultural y Museo del Automovilismo “Juan Manuel Fangio” (Juan Manuel Fangio Technical and cultural center and Museum of the Automobile).

BARADERO

Baradero Population: 28 000 Postal code: 2942 @ area code: (02329) Distances from Buenos Aires: 142 km north-west on RN 9

Baradero

422055 423997

Most of Manuel Fangio’s trophies are here exhibited. Also the history of the evolution of the motor car. Open 15th December–15th March daily 10:00–20:00; the rest of the year from 11:00–18:00

E Eating out

•

@ @

118

BUENOS AIRES

B

aradero is located on the Río Baradero not far from the junction with the Río Paraná. It was founded in 1615 by Hernando Arias de Saavedra (known as “Hernandarias”) by re-settling 250 Indians from the Paraná islands; it is thus the oldest settlement in Buenos Aires Province. In 1856 came the first Swiss immigrants. The agricultural activities centre around strawberries, logan berries, cherries, and kiwifruit. •

There are many clubs dedicated to water sports, such as sailing and fishing, many with private beaches along the river front. Indeed Baradero is well positioned to visit the islands and channels in the Río Paraná delta with its exuberant plant and bird life. Within the town precinct on RP 41 there is also a kiwifruit plantation. In the vicinity is estancia Baltimore @ (02329) 493382, reached via RN 9 and RP 41, with accommodation, swimming pool, horseriding and walks.

El Rincón de Betún, San Martín opposite Hotel Edelweiss • La Chacra, Bulnes 434 near Araoz Pizzerías • Malabia, Malabia 651 Cafeterías and confiterías • Bar Americano, San Martín 850 • Los Angelitos, Anchorena 1050

n Entertainment

•

I Post and telegraph

• •

B Tourist information •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Araoz near Santa María de Oro Telephone: Telecom, San Martín 1157

M Services and facilities

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, San Martín 1046 @ 483627 fax 480413 open Mon–Fri 08:00–11:00 and 15:00–18:00

•

Sport and fishing gear: Flopes, San Martín 1052

S Buses

C Accommodation

The bus terminal is on Avenida San Martín outside the train station. • T.A. Chevallier runs daily services to Buenos Aires (2 hrs) and Rosario (4 hrs)

Hotel Bariloche, Darregueira 448 AELPSV @ 480921 $G 2 * Hotel Edelweiss, San Martín 392 AELPSV @ 480900 $F 2 * Hotel Jacarandá, Boedo 1352 AELPV @ 481293 A Residencial Center, Darregueira 648 ALP @ 480351 • Residencial El Colonial, San Martín 155 @ 483901 *

U Motoring

•

Service station: A.C.A., Avenida Libertador General San Martín near E Genaud

T Trains

Accommodation on RN 9 • Hotel Costa Paraná, KM 142.5

Baradero is served by the F C General B Mitre railroad. The train station is on Avenida Tomás Edison near San Martín.

D Camping •

Anfiteatro José Hernández, Urquiza near San Martín

Camping Mutua, Almte Brown near Río Baradero

# Water transport

There are launch services on the Río Baradero from Alte Brown north near the balneario located just outside town.

E Eating out Restaurants • El Artesano, Avenida San Martín 1402 near J. Hernández • El Fogón, San Martín 202

119

Baradero

PAMPA PROVINCES BARADERO

N

Paraná Delta

Rio Baradero

Puerto 1

ALMTE. BROWN 41

ALT EB RO WN

3

SERRANO 5

4

MORENO

ECHEVERRIA 7

6

J.B. ALBERDI

TIN AR M

E. S AM YN

N SA

8

V. SARSFIELD A URQUIZ

9

Parque Sarmiento

BOEDO

11

RODRIGUEZ C

A

Plaza Mitre E

41

D

SANTA MARIA DE ORO I

12

14 13

MALABIA 16 15 17

DARRAGUEIRA

COLOMBES 18

To bus terminal

Baradero

T

120

To Buenos Aires and Rosario

9

CABRERA

10

LAPRIDA

ANCHORENA

ARAOZ

SAENZ

SAN MARTIN

BULNES

THAMES

MORENO

PASSO

GORRITI

ACEVEDO

BUENOS AIRES Key to map A C D E I

Iglesia Santiago Apóstol Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Dirección Municipal de Turismo Money exchange Bus terminal

$ T

3 Accommodation 1 6

Camping Mutua Hostería El Colonial

7 15 17 18

11 Cafetería Bar Americano 12 Cafetería Los Angelitos 16 Pizzería Malabia

Hotel Edelweiss Hotel Bariloche Residencial Center Hotel Jacaranda

5 Entertainment

4 Eating out

9

3 4 5 8

Club Regata Club de Pesca Restaurant El Fogón Restaurant El Rincón de Betún 10 Restaurant La Chacra

a Sport

Anfiteatro José Hernández

9 Sights

14 Museo Histórico Municipal “Juan Lavalle”

0 Services

13 Sport and fishing gear

p Sightseeing

•

Club de Pesca and Club Regatas are next to each other on Alte Brown near Río Baradero; also restaurants.

Museo Histórico Municipal “Juan Lavalle” (Juan Lavalle Municipal Historical Museum), Santa María de Oro 763 near Laprida

BRAGADO

Bragado Postal code: 6640 @ area code: (02342) Distance from Junín: 87 km north-west on RP 46

B

ragado is located in the central-northern part of Buenos Aires Province on RN 5, the main highway to Santa Rosa in La Pampa Province. It caters mainly for passing traffic but also has a golf course.

C Accommodation • • • • •

a Sport

•

Hotel Coll, Maroni 15 @ 422858 Hotel del Parque, Alsina 355 @ 424177 Hotel Halley, Rivadavia 2035 @ 421200 Hotel Posadas, Santa Rosa 31 @ 422306 Residencial Miceli, Suárez 134 @ 422154

Bragado Golf Club, Mayor Irusta 3777 @ 422142 Sport in 25 de Mayo Located 40 km south on RP 46. • Las Mulitas Golf Club, Calle 25 near Calle 204 @ (02345) 42764/3520

CAMPANA

Campana Population: 75 000 Postal code: 2804 @ area code: (02489) Distance from Buenos Aires: 75 km north-east on RN 9

C

ampana is located on the Río Paraná de las Palmas. It serves as a river port for the petroleum industry. No official founding date has been recorded, but it is known that Juan Garay, a conquistador with a royal mandate, granted

121

Campana

PAMPA PROVINCES land to Don Pedro Franco who built a small estancia, which then passed on to Don Francisco Alvarez de Campana. The actual town was founded by Luis Costa in 1875. The train station near the Río Paraná was built in 1875. The Costa family’s house situated on Luis costa near Colón is now a national monument. Although Campana is an industrial center — a petrochemical refinery is established here — the nearby river has attracted many tourists for water-skiing, fishing, and sailing. In 1907 the Spanish immigrant Manuel Iglesias built the first Argentine automobile here in Campana. The main attraction is the proximity to the lush and densely forested Río Paraná delta with its myriad canals. There are river cruises from Campana which make stops on canal-side recreos, a type of restaurant where meat is often cooked on the spit.

08:00–14:00 and Sat, Sun 07:30–16:30. Also cabins

E Eating out

•

I Post and telegraph

• •

The bus terminal for T.A. Chevallier and Expreso Paraná is on San Martín near Lavalle; both companies run regular daily services to Buenos Aires.

T Trains

The station for the F C General B Mitre line to Retiro station in Buenos Aires is on the corner of Avenida Rocca and Alem.

Edificio 6 de Julio @ 422417/421790

D Camping • • •

Post office: Encotesa, Avenida Rocca 273 Telephone: Telecom, Avenida Rocca 273

S Buses

B Tourist information •

Recreo La Azulada, on Canal Irigoyen

p Sightseeing

Club de Pescadores, on Canal Alem; also trailer sites; restaurant; access by boat Recreo El Descanso, Canal Alem; access by boat, services 07:30–21:00 every half hour. Restaurant Recreo Blondeau, Canal Alem near Río Carabelas; access by boat takes 1 hour. Ferry services Mon–Fri

•

•

Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes (Municipal Fine Arts Museum), San Martín 435. On exhibit are paintings, sculptures and works of art of Argentine artists Casa de los Costa, Colón near Luis Costa. This is the house of the founders of the city built in 1873 in Louis XIV style

C Accommodation in Campana Hotels * *

City, Belgrano 540 Plaza, San Martín 387 E- mail: [email protected]

Hosterías * *

Alem, Alem 868 El Talar, Colón 106

AELPV AEHLPVY

AELPV AELPV

Residenciales

A Flores, Alem 788 LP A Rex, Rivadavia 640 LP A Waldorf, Rivadavia near Ameghino LP

Campana

122

@

422536

$H

2

@

424102 fax

$F/G 2

@

420691

$G $H

2 2

@ @ @

423687 421062 420267

$H $G

2 2

BUENOS AIRES s Excursions •

Reserva Natural Estricta Otamendi: Located on the banks of the Río Paraná de las Palmas. Approximately 2600 ha (6440 acres), it was created to preserve the unique flora

•

and fauna of the Río Paraná delta. It can be visited daily 09:00–18:00 Estancia Santa Susana is a nineteenth century estancia located on RP 6 KM 12. It caters for tourists, offering gaucho barbecues and horsemanship. Information @ (02322) 492039

CARHUÉ

Carhué Population: 9000 Postal code: 6430 @ area code: (02936) Distances From Buenos Aires: 520 km south-west on RN 205 and RP 65 • From Bahía Blanca: 196 km northward on RN 33 •

C

arhué is located 8 km from Lago Epecuén in the pampa steppe. Last century Carhué was an outpost of European culture against the Indians. This lake’s heavy salt content is said to render its waters beneficial to sufferers of rheumatism and skin diseases, but because of the saltiness the lake has no fish. The climate is temperate with mean winter temperatures of 5–10°C (40–50°F) and in summer 22–25°C (64–75°F). The driest months are June–October, the wettest months are November, Januar, and March. Agricultural production comprises cereals, sunflowers, and honey.

D Camping

There are scores of hotels and restaurants. Since the devastating flood in 1985 the town has rebuilt and modernized its facilities; this includes the Centro Hidrotermal Carhué and several spas on the outskirts of town. In the vicinity are several small lagunas suitable for fishing. Public transport connections to Bahía Blanca, Mar del Plata, and Buenos Aires are good.

•

E Eating out Restaurants • Epecuén, Adolfo Alsina near Q. Martín • Bar El 11, Adolfo Alsina 419. Parrilla • El Quicho, Colón 1270. Parrilla • La Curva, access to RN 33. Parrilla • La Marca, San Martín near 9 de Julio. Parrilla Pizzerías • Il Bocato del Faraón, San Martín 1088 • Tiempo Libre, San Martín 755

A Festivals • •

Aniversario de la Fundación de Carhué (Foundation day of Carhué): 21st January Fiesta Provincial del Turismo Termal: February

B Tourist information •

Camping Municipal La Chacra 5 km from town is a 50 ha (124 acres) tree studded area. Through the area runs the Río Pigüé, a fresh-water stream. Showers, toilets

n Entertainment

• •

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Pellegrini near Moreno @ 42233; Web site:www.mercotour.com/carhue/; e-mail: [email protected]

123

Casa del Tango, Moreno 1057 Puebla Disco-Bar, access RN 33 near Adolfo Alsina

Carhué

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Carhué Hotels *** ** ** * *

Gran Hotel Levalle, Avenida San Martín near R.S. Peña ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Termas Hotel Avenida, Bulevar A. Alsina 1138 Full board and thermal bath AEFGJKLPSUVY Termas Hotel Carhué, Dorrego 540 AEFGJLPSUV Full board and thermal bath Buenos Aires, Urquiza 333 ACDELPSTV Thermal bath Shalom, Belgrano 880 AELPSV Full board and thermal bath

@

432867 fax

$E

2

@

432887 fax

$E

2

@

430302

$H

2

@

432503

$F

2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

432441 432926 432443 432471 432991 432999 432066 432114

$F $G

2 2

$I

1

Residenciales

A Hostal del Lago, R.S.Peña near 25 de Mayo Full board and thermal bath LP A Mirage, Access to RN 30 LPS B Dolores Imas, Colón 1336 B Edith, B. Mitre 741 B Epecuén, Bulevar A. Alsina near Quinquela B La Marias, Colón 1311 B Maruja, Alvear 730 B Silcrismar, Avellaneda 1122

• •

•

Tanguería Mi Noche, Colón near Bulevar Lavalle Tamara Pop, Colón 900. Latin music

•

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Plaza Lavalle Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, Avenida San Martín near Colón

p Sightseeing

S Buses

•

•

Empresa Liniers ° La Plata ($28.00; 73 4 hrs); 1 daily 21:50 ; return 21:45 • El Zorzal ° Santa Rosa in La Pampa Province (41 4 hrs); 16:00 daily except Tues, Thurs; return 06:40 daily except Tues, Thurs There are also daily buses to Buenos Aires, Bahía Blanca, Mar del Plata, and La Plata.

Tour operators • Chasiche Agencia de Viajes, @ (02936) 430022 • Hunting trips are organized by Sr. Pedro María de Aguirre @ (02936) 42516 Excursions • Balneario La Isla: Part of an estancia founded in 1877. The modern flour mill is housed in the same building erected in 1887. The spa has a thermal water pool, showers, toilets, and a café • Balneario La Barranca: At the mouth of the Río Pigüé into the lake

Service station: A.C.A., Avenida San Martín near Colón

a Sport

Fishing in Laguna Rolito, Laguna La Paraguaya, and Laguna La Salada.

Carhué

Museo Regional Adolfo Alsina (Regional Adolfo Alsina Museum), Laprida near Rivadavia

s Excursions

U Motoring •

Fishing: Sr. Sergio López @ (02936) 42399 and Sr. Carlos Canero @ (02936) 42547 organize fishing trips Flights: Carhué has an air strip. The Aero Club organizes sightseeing flights with small airplanes, capacity of three passengers; $35.00 for 20 minutes

124

BUENOS AIRES • •

•

Villa Turística Lago Epecuén: The ruins of the 1985 flood can be seen. Half day by tour operator $5.00 Estancia Pampa La Dulce: This is an old established estancia open to tourists. From the house you can see a salt lake with pink flamingos. Swimming, hiking in the rolling hills, horseriding. Full day by tour operator $22.00 including meal on the estancia

Puán and Pigüé: Small towns 70 km south in hilly country. Puán is a picturesque little town built on a hill with a small lake in the vicinity; nearby is the convent of the Hermanas Clarisas. Tour operators organize day tours to these locations which also include the town of Sierra de la Ventana (golf, casino) and Parque Nacional Tornquist

CARMEN DE PATAGONES

Carmen de Patagones Population: 19 000 Postal code: 8504 @ area code: (02920) Altitude: 44 m Distance from Bahía Blanca: 276 km south on RN 3

C

armen de Patagones is located on the northern bank of the Río Negro some 30 km from the river mouth, opposite Viedma. The two cities are linked by a bridge and a ferry service. It was founded in 1779 as Fuerte del Río Negro by Don Francisco de Viedma. Carmen de Patagones is often referred to simply as “Patagones”. The Iglesia Parroquial Nuestra Señora del Carmen was built in 1883. A ferry service across the Río Negro links Carmen de Patagones with Viedma. Included here is the thermal resort of Villalonga. This village is situated off RN 3 110 km north of

Carmen del Patagones, or alternatively 161 km south of Bahía Blanca. The thermal resort of Los Gauchos, a further 10 km east of the turnoff, located in a quiet agricultural zone. Thermal water was discovered here in 1928 when drilling for oil. The thermal water has a high bromide content. The facilities are being upgraded.

C Accommodation in Carmen de Patagones

For accommodation across the Río Negro see Accommodation in Viedma in Río Negro Province on page 492. Hotel Patagones, Rivadavia 384 A Hotel Argentino, Bynon 259 A Hospedaje Reggiani, Bynon 420

*

Accommodation in Villalonga

A Hospedaje Los Gauchos Includes 2 meals and thermal bath B Hospedaje Central, Río Colorado • Hotel Blanko, Patagones 75

AELPV AP LP LP

@ @ @

461495 461595 463065

@ @ @

(02928) 492128 $H (02928) 492261 (02928) 492237

2

Some distance from the actual thermal resort in the small village of Stroeder, 20 km south of Villalonga, is Hospedaje María Belén @ (02928) 491098.

125

Carmen de Patagones

PAMPA PROVINCES

ALSIN

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PARAGUAY

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12

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Carmen de Patagones

Neptuno, Rivadavia 310. Pizzería Sabatella, Rivadavia 218. Cafetería Tío Pepe, Harosteguy near Alsina. Parrilla and pastas Disco Sheik, Avellaneda 28

3 Accommodation 1 2 4

Hospedaje Reggiani Hotel Patagones Hotel Argentino

4 Eating out 3 5 7

Restaurant Neptuno Restaurant Sabatella Restaurant Loft

5 Entertainment 6

IED MA

n Entertainment

•

Restaurants • La Vieja Esquina, Marcelino Crespo near San Juan • Loft, Alsina 70. Pizzería Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) and Museo Histórico Regional “Francisco de Viedma” Correo Argentino Telephone (locutorio) Dirección de Turismo Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires Bus terminal

F. DE

CE

MA YO

E Eating out

A C

GE R R FERR FERRY Y

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SEN

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• • •

Dirección de Turismo, Bynon 186 @ 461777 fax 461780

Key to map

RA

IN

Viedma

B Tourist information •

OV

NE

VI ED IN RÍO MA C E B UE CO NO R ST ÍO NE AN NE S A ER AA G GR I R E VE ROO S . F. DE V

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R.S. PEÑA

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2 3

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1

BARBIERI

ZAMBONINI

FAGNANO

H. YRIGOYEN

E

COMODORO RIVADAVIA

GARIBALDI

RIVADAVIA

ITALIA

BROWN

25 DE MAYO

BUENOS AIRES

CORDOBA

SUIPACHA

SAN LORENZO

VILLEGAS

Plaza Villarino

SAN MARTIN

BYNON

CARMEN DE PATAGONES

Disco Sheik

126

8

Teatro Español

9 Sights 9 10 11 12

Tower of the old fort Plaza 7 de Mayo Cuevas Maragatas Casa Histórica del Banco de la Provincia

0 Services

13 Ferry to Viedma

BUENOS AIRES I Post and telegraph •

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Paraguay 38 Telephone: Locutorio, Comodoro Rivadavia 379

L Finance •

Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires, Comodoro Rivadavia near Alsina

•

R Air services

See Air services in Viedma in Río Negro Province on page 492.

•

S Buses

The bus terminal is on the corner of A Barbieri and Méjico. However, most bus companies stop only in Viedma, just across the river. Restaurant. • El Cóndor/La Puntual runs 2 services daily to Buenos Aires (15 hrs) and 4 services weekly to Puerto Madryn • Empresa Río Paraná runs 1 service daily to La Plata

• •

s Excursions

•

U Motoring •

Service station: Y.P.F., Bynon near Alsina

p Sightseeing •

ground floor of Municipalidad, Plaza 7 de Marzo. The museum provides an overview of the town’s earliest colonial days and of historical events that took place in the vicinity, such as fierce resistance to an invading Brazilian squadron in 1827; and archeological findings from the preHispanic era Tower of the old fort, built around 1780. Situated between the parish church and the school Cuevas Maragatas: A cave located on private property in the lower part of Calle Rivadavia. It served as the initial shelter for some Spanish families when they first arrived here Teatro Español 7 de Marzo near Barrejas was built in 1875 Casa Histórica del Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires in Mitre. Originally a naval depot, it is now a museum

•

Museo Histórico Regional “Francisco de Viedma” (Francisco de Viedma Regional Historical Museum),

Cerro de la Caballada: The battlefield where the Brazilian invasion in 1827 was repelled by the 200-odd defenders of the city. Located 1 km from the town center Bahía San Blas: 100 km north-east. See Bahía San Blas on page 116

CHASCOMÚS

Chascomús Population: 30 000 Postal code: 7130 @ area code: (02241) Altitude: 11 m Distance from Buenos Aires: 123 km south on RN 2

C

hascomús, meaning “very salty water” in the Araucanian language, is located in the pampa on the shallow Laguna Chascomús, whose average depth is only 1.5 m. The laguna forms part of the chained lakes system, the other lagunas being Chis-Chis, Vitel, Yalca, and Adela. Laguna Chascomús is fed by the Río Salado; its size varies with the rainfall, but most of the time it averages 15 km long and 5 km wide. The town grew up around Fuerte San Juan Bautista, founded in 1779

by Pedro Nicolás Escribano to contain the marauding Indians. In 1839

127

Chascomús

PAMPA PROVINCES a rebellion known as “Los Libres del Sur” broke out against the dictatorship of President Rosas, but was crushed by Rosas’ troops on the shores of the laguna. The first railroad arrived in 1865. Avenida Costanera is the town’s focal point, where most of the hotels and cafeterías are situated.

•

B Tourist information

• •

•

La Farola, Avenida Costanera near Lamadrid • Lo de Mitta, Lamadrid near Dolores • Rende, Avenida Costanera near Colón Cafeterías • Lado B, Libres del Sur near Bolívar • Ski, Libres del Sur 86 • Texas, Belgrano 112

n Entertainment

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Edificio del Turista, Avenida Costanera España 12 @ 430405 fax 436123

S Buses

There are 17 services daily for the two-hour trip to Buenos Aires, run by Costera Criolla, La Estrella/La Puntual, and Empresa Río de la Plata. • Bus companies: Antón, Río de la Plata, Costera Criolla, and El Cóndor

D Camping •

•

Disco Macoba, Avenida Costanera Disco Lennon, Libres del Sur 112

Monte Brown, Camino de Circunvalación, on the Laguna AEL $J per tent Monte Corti, Avenida Costanera España near La Porteña AEL $J 1, bungalows $H 2

a Sport

•

E Eating out

•

Restaurants • Campo, Belgrano 72 • La Casa de Candida, Alvear near Arenales. Pizzería • La Colonial, Avenida Costanera near Corrientes

•

Fishing: Club de Pesca Náutica, Avenida Lastra near Avenida Costanera; restaurant Golf: Chascomús Country Club, Avenida 25 de Mayo @ 423733; restaurant Sailing: Club de Regatas, Avenida Costanera; restaurant

C Accommodation in Chascomús Apart hotels • • • •

Chascomús, Avenida Costanera near Varela La Posada, Avenida Costanera Las Cabañas, Avenida Costanera near Tucumán Palmeras, Avenida Costanera near Lamadrid

Hotels ** * * *

Laguna, Libres del Sur near Maipú Bosnia, Córdoba near Lamadrid Los Vascos, Castelli 447 Nuevo Colón, Libres del Sur 70

AEFGHJLPTUVY AELPSV AELPSV AELPSV

Residenciales A A A A B B B

Costanera, Castelli near Avenida Costanera LPS El Lago, Dolores near Sarmiento LPS La Madrileña, Lamadrid 357 LP La Toja, Libres del Sur 102 ELP Chascomús, Lastra 367 MacBren, Avenida Costanera near Bolívar San José, Mazzini near Washington

Chascomús

128

@ @ @ @

425731 423503 423554 422277

$E $E $G $H

2 2 2 1

@ @ @ @

436236 423337 422856 422977

$F $H $F $G

2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @

422808 430879 422141 422268 422968 423744 423276

$H $G

2 2

$H

2

$H $H

2 2

BUENOS AIRES p Sightseeing •

•

Museo Pampeana (Pampas Museum), Parque de Los Libres Sur. Also known as the “gaucho museum”, it is b u i l t i n t h e s t y l e o f a n i n eteenth-century stage-coach relay-dispatch house. There are displays of archeological artefacts, antique furniture, and leather clothing worn by gauchos Negro chapel, corner of Lamadrid and Venezuela. Built in 1862 by the Negro Brotherhood, a fraternity of freed Negro slaves, it served as a hospital during the cholera epidemic in

• •

1866 and during the yellow fever outbreak in 1871 Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Merced on the Plaza Independencia was completed in 1847 Hydrobiological experimental station, corner of Avenida Lastra and Juárez. The fertilization of pejerrey eggs for export can be observed

s Excursions

•

Villa del Sur: 11 km north. Here is the bottling plant of “Villa del Sur” mineral water

CHIVILCOY

Chivilcoy Postal code: 6620 @ area code: (02346) Distance from Buenos Aires: 160 km south-west on RN 7

C

hivilcoy is on the main Buenos Aires–Santa Rosa route in La Pampa Province. It has adequate tourist facilities to cater for travelers passing through.

The local Club Social has a course.

• • • • •

golf

C Accommodation Hotels • Avenida, Ave. De Tomaso @ 424934 • Centro, Necochea 34 @ 422444 • Chivilcoy, Ave. Sarmiento 125 @ 430700

Falcone, Belgrano 201 @ 420116 Iglesias, Pueyrredón 115 @ 422322 Necochea, Necochea 24 @ 423492 Patri, Ave. Ceballos 163 @ 424044 Petit Hotel, H. Yrigoyen 259 @ 434242

a Sport

•

Golf: Club Social y Atlético La Pampa, RN 5 @ 424592

CLAROMECÓ

Claromecó Population: 1000 Postal code: 7505 @ area code: (02982) Distances • From Bahía Blanca: 260 km east on RN 3 then RN 228 • From Necochea: 190 km south-east on RN 228 and RP 73

C

laromecó is a newly developing seaside resort at the mouth of the Arroyo Claromecó. It can be reached by bus via Tres Arroyos 65 km inland. High dunes run along behind the beach, interspersed with rocky outcrops. Because of a warm current coming down from Brazil, the water is considerably warmer 129

Claromecó

PAMPA PROVINCES To Tres Arroyos and Necochea

Calle 13

Calle 36

Calle 34

Calle 32

Calle 30

Calle 28

Calle 26

Calle 24

Calle 22

Calle 20

Calle 18

Calle 16

Calle 14

Calle 15

Calle 11 I

C

D

A

Calle 9 T

Calle 7

N

$

Calle 5

To Dunamar

Calle 3

E AV

N TA OS .C

ER

A

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ar M

SYMBOLS A Iglesia Parroquial C Municipalidad (Town Hall) D Correo Argentino I Información Turística

CLAROMECÓ

T Bus Terminal $ Banco Comercial Tres Arroyos

than that quite a distance further north.

E Eating out

The “suburb” of Dunamar reached via a foot bridge across the Río Claromecó has many vacation cabins and camping grounds surrounded by pine forests. This is a quiet seaside resort with plenty of good fishing and even a nine-hole golf course.

Restaurants • El Farolito, Calle 28–348 • Juanillo, Calle 9–2097 • La Gallina Turuleca, Avenida 26–555 • Pil-Pil, Calle 28 near 11. Pizzería Cafeterías • Cleopatra, Calle 28 near 9 • La Boya, Calle 5 near 22 • Montoto, Calle 22 near 3

A Festivals •

Concurso de la Corvina Negra: A fishing competition held February 24

n Entertainment

Admission to discos: $J • Disco Monkey, Calle 5 near 22 • Disco Puerto Libre, Calle 5 between Calle 22 and 24 • Disco Tucu–Tucu, Calle 22 between Calle 5 and 3

B Tourist information •

Municipal tourist information office, Calle 28 (between Calle 9 and Calle 11) @ 4280001

D Camping •

I Post and telegraph

A.C.A. campsite, Calle 4 between Calle 37 and 41

Claromecó

•

130

Post office: Correo Argentina Calle 28–325 between Calle 9 and 11

BUENOS AIRES C Accommodation in Claromecó

Most hotels are closed during the off season, from April to November. Hotels *

Hosterías *

Boston, Calle 7 near Calle 26

Motels *

Rigel, Calle 43 near Calle 10

Residenciales A A A A

@

480360

$H

2

AELPV

@

480114

$H

2

AELPV

@

480026

LPS LP LP LPS

@ @

480014 423938

@

430369

$I $I $I $H

1 1 1 2

Claromecó, Calle 7 near Avenida 26 AELPSV

Céntrico, Calle 9 near Calle 28 La Reserva, Calle 7 near Calle 24 Pablito, Calle 26 near Calle 9 Suyay, Calle 11 and Calle 28

S Buses

Claromecó’s bus terminal is at Calle 28–235 @ 480018. Note that outside the main tourist season long-distance buses only call at Tres Arroyos. From Tres Arroyos local buses then operate. Companies • Empresa Alba de Ajó, Empresa Bernasconi, and Expreso Mar del Sur (to Buenos Aires and Miramar) • Empresa Detroit: Tres Arroyos

•

p Sightseeing

•

U Motoring •

•

Museo Regional (Regional Museum), Calle 28. On exhibit are fossils and objects made by the former indigenous population. Open Mon, Wed, Sat 20:00–22:00

s Excursions

Shell service station, Calle 21 near 24

•

a Sport •

Organized deep-sea fishing trips cost $40.00 per person Golf: Club de Campo Santana @ (02783) 423543; nine holes in undulating country interspersed with pine tree; $2.00 per person; restaurant

Boating: Club Náutico, Calle 16 near 7; restaurant Fishing: The best seaside fishing spots are Médano, Dunamar; El Caracolero is a rocky fishing spot. On the Río Claromecó good spots are near the first and second waterfall.

•

Saltos de Piedra. Up river there are several waterfalls at 2.5 km, 10 km, 12 km, and 20 km where the water tumbles over volcanic rock. For hikers and anglers Faro: This 54 m lighthouse tower is located 3 km east of town in a semi-built-up area. Splendid views from the top after mounting 278 steps

GENERAL LAVALLE

General Lavalle Postal code: 7103 @ area code: (02252) Distance from Buenos Aires: 304 km south on RN 2, RP 63, and RP 11

G

eneral Lavalle is a small town located on the Ría de Ajó, a few kilometers inland from the Bahía Samborombón, just west of Cabo San Antonio. It is the destination of a section of the prestigious yachting event, the Campeonato 131

General Lavalle

PAMPA PROVINCES Crucero San Isidro (San Isidro Cruise Championship) which is held every year at Easter. The main attractions are the wide fertile plain of the pampa hinterland dotted with large estancias, the many lagunas with their wildlife, and water sports in the Bahía de Samborombón. Some of the lagunas are nature reserves. General Lavalle is also within easy reach of the seaside resorts south of Cabo San Antonio: San Clemente del Tuyú, 25 km east.

D Camping

When approaching town, note also the small waterways which have been regulated to reduce flooding of these low-lying areas and for irrigation. Included here is the nearby town of Dolores, 114 km west of General Lavalle, reached on RP 11 and RP 63; its facilities are described under the corresponding headings. Dolores was founded in 1818, but was destroyed by Indians in 1821 and later rebuilt. It is a grain-growing and cattle-farming center. Much of the area around town is subject to flooding during prolonged wet weather.

Camping on Laguna Salada Grande • Pesquero Chiozza, @ (02267) 420737; also bungalows, restaurant

E Eating out

• •

S Buses

The bus terminal is on B. Mitre. Costera Criolla, Antón, and Empresa Río de la Plata run 10 services daily from Dolores to Buenos Aires (4 hrs). • Bus companies: Río de la Plata, La Estrella, Rápido Argentino • Buenos Aires (4 hrs): 15 daily

a Sport

A Festivals •

•

Sport in Dolores • Golf: Aero Club Dolores, RN 2 @ (02245) 446171/446681

Fiesta Provincial de Santos Vega: March 6–9. This colorful festival is held in honor of one of the region’s local song-writers, Santos Vega. It is a gaucho festival with plenty of asados and displays of horsemanship Fiesta de la Corvina Negra: September/October, a fishing competition

p Sightseeing

•

B Tourist information •

Dirección de Turismo Municipal, B. Mitre 1168 @ 491006 fax 491144

•

C Accommodation •

Museo Histórico Regional Santos Vega (Santos Vega Historical Museum), Avenida Mitre near Costanera. In one room there is a replica of an authentic pulpería or gaucho tavern. The second room has natural science exhibits Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Merced was built in 1892

s Excursions

Hostería General Lavalle, B. Mitre 20, opposite the waterway; AEFG

On the watercourses there are several baths and marinas inviting water-skiing and boating. There are many islands in the bay which can also be visited such as Isla Vasco with good fishing spots. Lagunas abound also in the hinterland. Frequent buses commute to the nearby beach resorts of Las Toninas and Mar de Ajó; see pages 201 and 146.

Accommodation in Dolores • Hotel Argentina • Hotel Al Ver Veras, RN 2 KM 226 @ (02245) 443022 • Hotel Avenida, Olavarría 362 @ (02245)447619

General Lavalle

Restaurant Del Cruce, B. Mitre near RP 11 Restaurant J.M., B. Mitre 1165

132

BUENOS AIRES •

Reserva Natural Campos del Tuyú: See Exursions from San Clemente del Tuyú on page 203

GUAMINÍ

Guaminí Population: 4000 Postal code: 6435 @ area code: (02929) Altitude: 110 m Distance from Bahía Blanca: 197 km north on RN 33

G

uaminí is a summer resort located on Laguna del Monte, which has several islands. It is accessible by road and rail from Buenos Aires and Bahía Blanca. The heavy rains of 1985 have done considerable damage. Laguna del Monte on the outskirts of town does not support fish owing to its high salt content.

C Accommodation

S Buses

•

•

Hotel Rocanova, San Martín 499 @ 432254 • Hospedaje Turismo Guaminí, San Martín near Alem @ 432281 Accommodation on Laguna Cochico A Motel Cochico, 11 km from town. Reservations: Bahía Blanca @ (0291) 449648 LP

•

Bahía Blanca ($9.90; 4 hrs); Empresa Colón Buenos Aires (7 hrs); 3 daily; Liniers, T.A. Chevallier

a Sport

Fishing. Possible in Laguna Alsina RP 65 KM 463; Laguna de Cochico located 15 km north of town, access via RN 33 and RN 65

JUNÍN

Junín Population: 80 000 Postal code: 6000 @ area code: (02362) Altitude: 81 m Distance from Buenos Aires: 265 km west on RN 7

J

unín is located near Laguna de Gómez and Laguna Mar Chiquita (not to be confused with Mar Chiquita in Córdoba Province and Laguna Mar Chiquita north of Mar del Plata). Its origins go back to the Fuerte Federación built in 1828. The town is served by F.C. General Bartolomé Mitre railroad, and there are important rail workshops. It is an industrial town and the center of a rich agricultural region.

B Tourist information •

D Camping

•

Oficina de Turismo, R.S. Peña 145 @ 421023

133

Camping Club de Pescadores, Avenida Circunvalación, capacity:

Junín

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Junín Hotels ** ** * *

Copahue, Saavedra 80 Embajador, Pellegrini 43 Astor, Lavalle 15 Central, R.S. Peña 450

Hospedajes A A A A B

Avenida, Arias 33 El Sol, Almafuerte 59 León, 25 de Mayo 183 Plaza, R. de Escalada 41 El Descanso, Liliedal 125

AEFGJLPSUV AEFGJLPUV AELPV AELPV

@ @ @ @

423390 fax 422183/421433 424446 422796

$F $F $G $G

2 2 2 2

LP LP LP LP L

@ @ @ @ @

421101/426440 425521 426137 424526 fax 423022

$G $G $G $G $H

2 2 2 2 2

@

429735/429620

Accommodation Laguna de Gómez • Cabañas Laguna de Gómez

E Eating out

130 tents; AEFL, showers, toilets, electricity; fishing

AV E . JAV IER MUÑ

2

IZ COLÓN

LILIEDAL

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

J.NEWBERY

ESPAÑA

9 10

CABRERA

Hospedaje Plaza Hotel Embajador Hotel Central Hotel Copahue Hospedaje León

4 Eating out 4 6

L .N. ALEM

12

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

7 8 9 11 13

PRES. QUINTANA

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

GRAL PAZ

I

12

8

25 DE MAYO

Hospedaje El Sol Hospedaje El Descanso Hotel Astor Hospedaje Avenida

Junín

WINTER

AVE. R.S. PEÑA

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Oficina de Turismo

3 Accommodation 1 2 3 5

6 7

C. PELLEGRINI

Key to map A C I

4

H. YRIGOYEN

LÓPEZ Y PLANES

BELGRANO

R. ESCALADA DE SAN MARTÍN

NARB ONDO

M. LEBENSOHN

12 DE OCTUBRE

CNEL SUÁREZ

11

AVE. J.I. ARIAS

C. SAAVEDRA

AVE . J.B. ALBE RDI

AVE. RIVADAVIA

AVE. MITRE 5

ALMAFUERTE

ALSINA

20 DE SE PTIEMBRE

FRANCIA

ALVAREZ RODRÍGUEZ

JU N Í N

LAVALLE 3

Restaurant Andi, R.E.. de San Martín 3

GUIDO SPANO

ATALIVIA ROCA

MAYOR LÓPEZ

URQUIZA

1

MALVINAS ARGENTINAS

BRASIL

AVE. DR. BENITO DE MIGUEL

AVELLANEDA

R. VÁZQUE Z

AMEGHINO

ARENALES

•

Restaurant El Trébol Restaurant Andi

134

10 Restaurant Las Vías

9 Sights

12 Museo “Angel María de Rosa”

BUENOS AIRES •

Restaurant El Trébol, Malvinas Argentinas 20 Restaurant Las Vías, R.S.. Peña 450

Sport in Chacabuco Chacabuco is located 58 km east on RN 7; postal code 6740 • Chacabuco Golf Club, RN 7 KM 198 @ (02352) 427112

• Eating out on Circunvalación • Restaurant La Cabaña de Godoy, near Urquiza

p Sightseeing

•

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Rivadavia near Ave. San Martín. • El Rápido SRL @ 425544 • Expreso Jocolí @ 440740 ° Mendoza via Villa Mercedes and San Luis • Buenos Aires (5 hrs); 15 daily; Empresa Rojas, Empresa Liniers, T.A. Chevallier

s Excursions

•

•

U Motoring •

Museo “Angel María de Rosa”, R.S.. Peña 143; historic archive of the town with a coin collection, historical documents.

Service station: A.C.A., corner of C Saavedra and M Levenson

a Sport •

Junín Golf Club, RN 7 KM 267.5 @ (02362) 427561 Sport in Lincoln Located 56 km west on RN 188. • Lincoln Golf Club Pde Municipal General San Martín @ (02355) 422118/ 422365

L a g u n a M a r C h i q u i t a: 2 0 km north-west of town; 5400 ha (13 343 acres), maximum depth 3.50 m; Pejerrey fishing, boat hire Laguna de Gómez: 12km west; 3500 ha (8650 acres). Can be reached on a sealed road. There are restaurants and shops to cater for the 700 or so cabins built around the laguna. There is a municipal camping ground and Camping Club Náutico Junín. During summer regular microbus services to and from Junín. Fishing and aquatic sports

LA PLATA

La Plata Population: 525 000 Postal code: 1900 @ area code: (0221) Altitude: sea level Distance from Buenos Aires: 56 km south-east on RN 2

L

a Plata was founded in 1882 by Dr Dardo Rocha as the capital of Buenos Aires Province. It is located on the Río de la Plata (commonly known in English as the River Plate). Until Federation the capital of Buenos Aires Province was the city of Buenos Aires. When Buenos Aires became the federal capital, the province lost its seat of government, and it was decided to create a new provincial capital — La Plata. La Plata’s port is 9 km north of the town center. The climate of La Plata is temperate, with a mean annual temperature of 16°C (60°F). Rain is evenly distributed over the year with about 90 wet

days. The highest rainfall is during March–April and October. La Plata is a modern city, and its busy port is an important outlet for the products of the Pampa 135

La Plata

PAMPA PROVINCES Provinces. The Y.P.F. oil refinery is the city’s largest industrial complex, and is connected by a 72 km pipeline to Buenos Aires. In addition La Plata is an administrative and university center. The city was completely planned on the drawing board. The streets have no names, but bear numbers instead.

LA PLATA PASEO DEL BOSQUE 21

•

•

Fiesta de la Raza (Festival of the Race): October 12. This anniversary of Columbus’ landing in the Americas in 1492 is a fiesta which bonds all the Spanish-speaking countries of South America Foundation of the city: November 19

• •

24

23 77 AL

25

N O G IA D

26

Pizzerías • Allora, Calle 5 near 40 • La Trattoria, Calle 10 near 47 • Pizzalino, Calle 8 between 50 and 51 • Casablanca, Calle 9 between 51 and 53 Restaurants • Abruzzese, Calle 42 (between Calle 4 and Calle 5) • Ambassador, Calle 50 between Calle 11 and Calle 12 • Bambino, Calle 7 between Calle 40 and Calle 41

B Tourist information •

AVENIDA 52

JOINS MAP LA PLATA CENTRO

A Festivals

21

Subsecretaría de Turismo, Calle 12 near 53 Piso 13 @ 4836357 fax 4254576 Oficina de Turismo Municipal, Calle 47–740 @ 4258334 La Plata Web site: www.guialaplata. com

E Eating out Fast food • McDonalds, Calle 47 between 7 and 8

C Accommodation in La Plata Hotels **** *** *** *** *** *** * ** *

Corregidor, Calle 6–1026 between Calle 53 and Calle 54 @ 4256800 Fax 4256805 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Acuarius, Calle 3 between 46 and 47 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4214229 Cristal, Calle 1–620 between Calle 44 and Calle 45 Fax 4245640 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4241043 Del Rey, Calle 13 near 44 Plaza Paso ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4241703 Fax 4270177 La Plata, Calle 51–783 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4229090 fax San Marcos, Calle 54–523 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4222249 Open from December–March Saint James, Calle 60–377 AELPV @ 4218089 Diamante, Calle 41–565 AEFGJLPUV @ 4242633 Roga, Calle 54–334 between Calle 1 and Calle 2 AELPSV @ 4219553

Hospedajes

A García, Calle 2–525 A Roca, Calle 2–309

La Plata

LP LP

136

@

4214916

$D

2

$F

2

$F $F

2 2

$F $E

2 2

$H $F

2 2

$F

2

$H

1

BUENOS AIRES S Buses from La Plata

The bus terminal is on Calle 4 between Calle 41 and Calle 42, two blocks from the rail station. Bus companies • Costera Criolla runs daily services to Miramar, Necochea, and Tandil • El Pampa S.A. ° Bahía Blanca via Tres Arroyos, Necochea, Miramar, Mar del Plata, and Villa Gesell ° Tandil via Lobería, Necochea, Juárez, and La Calera • El Rápido Argentino ° Necochea via Chascomús, General Belgrano, Balcarce, and Miramar ° Villa Gesell via San Clemente del Tuyú, Mar de Ajó, Pinamar, and Ostende • Empresa Argentina @ 4821839 • Empresa El Tala runs services to Corrientes and Formosa • Empresa Liniers ° Carhué ($28.00; 73 4 hrs); 1 service daily 21:50; return 21:45 • Expreso Córdoba–Mar del Plata runs daily services to Córdoba and La Rioja • La Estrella, local 5 @ 4232745 runs 4 daily services to Olavarría, Sierra de La Ventana, and Bahía Blanca • La Internacional @ 4232745 • Río de la Plata runs daily services to Villa Gesell and Pinamar • Río Paraná ° Carmen de Patagones via Tandil, Juárez, Tres Arroyos, Coronel Dorrego, Punta Alta, and Bahía Blanca • T.A.C. runs 3 services weekly to San Luis, Mendoza and to Puerto Madryn, and Trelew • Via Bariloche, locaL 2 @ 4229601 Long-distance services

• • • • • • • • •

• • • •

Destination Bariloche Buenos Aires Córdoba Mar del Plata

Fares $73.00 $2.00

Services 1 daily 24 daily

$18.00

6 daily

• • • •

Rosario $22.00 Santiago del Estero Termas de Río Hondo Viedma

4 daily 2 daily

Duration Company T.A.C. 11 2 hrs Río de La Plata General Urquiza 5 hrs Costera Criolla, El Rápido Argentino, La Estrellal 6 hrs Central Argentino, Esap Central Argentino, La Unión La Unión Transporte Mansilla

•

Centro Andaluz, Calle 45 between 11 and 12. Spanish cuisine Chino, Calle 7 between 46 and 47 Club Español, Calle 6–1038. Spanish cuisine El Quijote, Calle 13 on Plaza Paso La Aguada, Calle 50 between Calle 7 and Calle 8 La Estancia, Calle 6 near Calle 45 La Parrilla, Calle 51 between Calle 8 and Calle 9 La Plata, Calle 10 near Diagonal 74 Pedro Benoit, Centenario near 512. Italian cuisine

Teutonia, Calle 9 between Calle 47 and Calle 48 Cafeterías • El Ayuntamiento, Calle 1 between 46 and 47 • El Modelo, Calle 5 near 54 • Mapuches, Camino Centenario near 508

n Entertainment

• •

137

Disco Macondo, Calle 45 between Calle 8 and Calle 9 Disco Metropolis, corner of Calle 47 and Diagonal 74

La Plata

PAMPA PROVINCES To Buenos Aires 1

LA PLATA CENTRO

CALLE 39

CALL3

2

D IA

CALLE 41

G

AVENIDA 7

C ALLE 11

CALLE 12

CALLE 13

CALLE 14

O N AL 77

CALLE 42

AVENIDA 1

CALLE 2

CALLE 4

CALLE 5

CALLE 6

CALLE 8

CALLE 9

CALLE 10

CALLE 40

1

3

CALLE 43 4

N

Plaza Paso

Plaza Italia

AVENIDA 44 6

5

O

N

A

L

74

CALLE 45

IA

G

CALLE 46

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$

CALLE 47 N

A

L

80

E

I

7

D

IA

G

O

CALLE 48 CALLE 49 9 8

10

CALLE 50

215 AVENIDA 51 Plaza Martín

C

D

San

Plaza Rivadavia

B 12

AVENIDA 53 14 15

13

16 18

CALLE 54 17

78

CALLE 55

AL N O

CALLE 56

DI

AG

CALLE 57 D IA O

D

G A

G

N

IA

CALLE 58

JOINS MAP PASEO DEL BOSQUE

A

Plaza Moreno

Paseo del Bosque

To Mar del Plata

11

O

L

N A

73

L 79

CALLE 59

Plaza Rocha

AVENIDA 60

To Berisso

19

Plaza Maximo Paz

To Magdalena

• •

I Post and telegraph

Teatro del Bosque, Avenida 1 between Calle 60 and Calle 61 Teatro Opera, Calle 58 between Calle 10 and Calle 11

La Plata

• •

138

Post office: Correo Argentino Calle 4 near 51 Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, Calle 47 between 7 and 8

BUENOS AIRES Key to map A B C D E I $ T

Catedral Gobernación Provincial (Government) Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica Argentina Oficina de Turismo Municipal Banco de la Provincia Bus Terminal

3 Accommodation 1 2 4 6 11 14

Hospedaje Roca Hotel Diamante Hospedaje García Hotel Cristal Hotel La Plata Hotel Corregidor

4 Eating out 5 7 15 17 22

Restaurant El Quijote Pizzería La Trattoria Club Español Cafetería Modelo Club Hípico

5 Entertainment

20 Teatro Martín Fierro 26 Teatro del Bosque

9

•

•

Banco de la Provincia, Ave. 7 block 700 near Calle 46. ATM

•

Service station: Shell, Calle 7 near 46 A1 Rent a Car, Calle 9 near 51 (A.C.A.) @ 4232569, fax 4232572 Localiza Rent a Car, Plaza Paso N-92 (Ave 13 & 14) @ 4831145

T Trains

The F C General Roca station, Estación La Plata, is on the corner of Calle 1 and Calle 41. There are at least 10 trains daily between La Plata and Buenos Aires.

•

a Sport

•

Sport in City Bell City Bell is located 10 km west of La Plata. Postal code: 1876. • Club A. Estudiantes de La Plata Country Club, Calle 11 near Calle 35 @ (0221) 4802137 • Club Hípico y de Golf City Bell, Labougle near Calle 10 @ (0221) 4800167

•

p Sightseeing • •

0 Services 3

F.C. General Roca rail sta-

Localiza Rent a Car

U Motoring • •

8 Museo Dardo Rocha 10 Archivo Histórico de la Provincia 12 Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes 21 Observatorio Astronómico 23 Jardín Zoológico 24 Museo de Sciencias Naturales 25 Jardín del Paz

7 Tour operators and car 13 tion Subsecretaría de Turismo rental

L Finance •

9 Sights

16 Hotel San Marcos 18 Hotel Roga 19 Hotel Saint James

•

Paseo del Bosque. Part of the Estancia Iraola; most of the trees were planted last century Teatro Martin Fierro, Paseo del Bosque. There are open-air performances of ballet and opera on the island in the center of the artificial lake during summer

•

139

Jardín Zoólogico (Zoo), Paseo del Bosque Museo de Ciencias Naturales (Museum of Natural Sciences), Paseo del Bosque. The collection of extinct animals is one of the most complete in the world, and is most interesting. The 22 halls open to the public display zoological, botanical, ethnological, archeological, geological, and mineralogical exhibits, including mummies, prehistoric implements, and human skulls. Open daily 10:00–19:00 Observatorio Astronómico (Astronomical Observatory), Paseo del Bosque; built in 1884 Jardín de la Paz (Garden of Peace), Paseo del Bosque. All the countries in the world are represented by their national flower. During the Fiesta de la Raza, national flags are raised in the garden Plaza Moreno, intersected by Diagonal 73 and Diagonal 74, is the city’s geographical center. It has many trees and four fountains. In the center of the park is a small structure depicting the spot where the city’s foundation stone was laid The Municipalidad (Town Hall), built in 1886 by the German Hubert Stier, and the uncompleted cathedral are in the Plaza Moreno. Concerts are held in the Municipalidad’s Salón Dorado (“Golden Hall”) Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes (Provincial Fine Arts Museum), Calle

La Plata

PAMPA PROVINCES •

•

53–525. On exhibit are paintings and works of art of Argentine artists of the nineteenth and twentieth century Archivo Histórico de la Provincia (Provincial Historical Archives), Pasaje Dardo Rocha. Photographs and paintings of founders of provincial towns or cities from the seventeenth, eighteenth, and nineteenth centuries Museo Dardo Rocha, Calle 50–933 (between Calle 13 and Calle 14), home of the city’s founder, built in 1885. On exhibit are furniture, documents relating to the foundation of La Plata and a map section

•

s Excursions •

•

•

Isla Paulina: 9 km. A regular launch service runs to the beaches on the island Reserva Natural Punta Lara: 14 km north on RP 13. A 20 km beach with many trees on the Río de la Plata. The

road there is the continuation of Diagonal 74. The approximately 30 ha (74 acre) nature reserve is the southernmost gallery forest normally only encountered further north. The vegetation is subtropical: Large trees with dense foliage retain the moisture in the air and in the ground permitting a variety of plants to grow in the shaded, moist area like fern trees. There is a park ranger there and tours are conducted Ensenada: 18 km north on RP 13, continuing on the Costanera from Punta Lara. Some of the walls have been preserved of the Museo Fuerte de Barragan, founded in 1781. There is also a naval museum República de los Niños (Children’s Republic), located in the suburb of Manuel B Gonnet. Miniature houses and miniature trains, an artificial lake, and an aquarium are attractions for young and old

LOBOS

Lobos Population: 30 000 Postal code: 7240 @ area code: (02227) Altitude: 29 m Distances • From Buenos Aires 98 km south on RN 205 • From La Plata 120 km south-west on RP 6 and RN 205

L

obos is located in the pampa near Laguna de Lobos. Its origins go back to Fuerte Lobos, a fort founded in 1779 by order of the then viceroy Vértiz. The actual foundation of the township took place in 1803. Lobos is the birthplace of former President Juan Domingo Perón. Calle Buenos Aires is the main street in Lobos. On either side of Buenos Aires streets intersecting it change their name and block numbers start from zero. Lobos was an important colonial town on the camino real. Many colonial buildings with large patios have been preserved. Take a stroll through Calles Chacabuco and Cardoner; the Pulpería de Azcaray

Lobos

is a colonial gaucho tavern still in existence.

A Festivals

• •

Fiesta del Pescador Deportivo (Sport fishermen’s festival) in January Aniversario de la Fundación: June 2

B Tourist information

•

140

Dirección de Turismo, Salgado 40 @ 431450, fax 431455. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–14:00 and Sat/Sun 10:00–16:00

BUENOS AIRES C Accommodation in Lobos Hotels

@

430163/65

$F

2

@

494233

$G

2

KLPS LP

@ @ @

421465 421560 421939

$G $H

2 2

AEFGJLPSUV

@

430180

$F

2

Central Park, Junín 77 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY • Class Hotel, Belgrano near Almafuerte • Dana, Ave. Circunvalación near RN 205

***

Hosterías *

El Pescador II, Avenida Costanera near Calle 38 AELPV

Hospedajes

A 9 de Julio, 9 de Julio 241 A Petit Hotel, Arturo Cardoner 45 • Los Pallotinos, Empalme Lobos

Accommodation on RP 41 Hotels **

Lobos Country Club, RP 41 KM 172

Accommodation on RN 205 north • La Candelaria, KM 114.5

•

•

Web site: www.lobosweb.com.ar

D Camping •

•

Camping Los Lobos, A.C.A. located on Laguna de Lobos; capacity 350 tents, 10 ha (25 acre). ADFL, showers, toilets, electricity. Wooded areas

I Post and Telegraph

• •

E Eating out

Post office: Lamadrid Telephone: 25 de Mayo 63

S Buses

Restaurants • Club Salgado, Suipacha 355 • El Candil, Yrigoyen near RN 205 & • La Casa de Mi Abuela, Salgado 4 near Las Heras • La Casona, Moreno 560 • La Marina, Buenos Aires 1–775 • La Rosada, Sarmiento 277 near Mitre • Los Vasquitos, Buenos Aires 2 near Balcarce • Los Viejos Paraisos, Castelli 53

The bus terminal is on Avenida Alem between Hiriart and 9 de Julio. Empresa Liniers @ 421483 has its terminal on Avenida L.N. Alem 190 near the train station. Bus companies ° Lobos Bus @ 431346; El Cahrret @ 422433; Jony Bus @ 421996; La Amistad @ 431161; La Buena @ 422340, Nuevo Senda @ 430178 Destinations ° Buenos Aires, Once station; 10 daily; Línea 88 ° Buenos Aires, Retiro station (2 hrs); 17 daily ° Laguna de Lobos; 9 daily; Micro Local

Cafeterías • La Familia, Buenos Aires 102 • La Marina, Buenos Aires 202 Pizzerías • A.B.C., Belgrano 102 & • El Escritorio, 9 de Julio 51 • El León, Rivadavia 102 near 9 de Julio • La Farola, Cardoner 202

T Trains

Restaurants

The train station is on Avenida L.N. Alem 106. Lobos is served by a private line operating between Merlo and Lobos. Change at Merlo some 65 km north to the D.F. Sarmiento line which brings you to

n Entertainment •

Disco Au Brazil, Cardoner between 9 de Julio and Hiriart Disco Tío Coco, Suipacha 53 near Buenos Aires.

Amanecer Bailable, Cardoner near Olavarrieta. Dancing

141

Lobos

PAMPA PROVINCES To Buenos Aires

MARMOL

N. AREVALO

H

SALGADO ESTE

BALCARCE

AMEGHINO

11

F. MASTROPIETRO

10

8

AZCARATE

ALBERTINI

SAN MARTIN

LAS HERAS

ALSINA

RATTI

SALGADO OESTE 12

9 DE JULIO

T

F.J. DIAZ

Plaza 1810

7

AVE. CARDONER

25 DE MAYO

6

5

E

NECOCHEA

MITRE

MORENO

9

CASTELLI

ESTRADA

P. GOYENA

3

HIRIART

SARMIENTO

4

AYACUCHO

SUIPACHA

2

ALBERDI

1

Plaza Italia

AVENIDA LEANDRO N. ALEM

RAUCH

BUENOS AIRES

ALMAFUERTE

CHACABUCO 205

RIVADAVIA

BELGRANO

LOMBARDO

13

N J.PINEYRO Plaza Tucumán

O. PINEYRO 205

VILLANUEVA

LOBOS

A. BERRO 41

To Olavarria

Key to map C D E H I T

Municipalidad (Town hall) Post Office & Telex Telephone Hospital Dirección de Turismo Bus terminal

3 Accommodation

7 Hospedaje 9 de Julio 11 Hospedaje Petit Hotel 12 Hotel Central Park

To San Miguel del Monte

4 Eating out 1 2 3 5 6 9

Club Salgado Pizzería La Farola Pizzería A.B.C. Pizzería El Escritorio Pizzería El León Restaurant Los Viejos Paraisos 13 Restaurant La Rosada 4

9 Sights

14 Casa Natal of J.D. Perón

0 Services 8

Train station

Disco Tío Coco

• •

a Sport

Fishing: Laguna de Lobos, is a center for fishing enthusiasts. The Club de Pesca has a club house with restaurant

Lobos

10 Burbridge Travel

5 Entertainment

Estación Once in Buenos Aires. There are 8 daily services to Merlo on weekdays and 5 services on Sundays and holidays. •

7 Tour operators and car rental

142

Golf: Aero Club Fortín Lobos, RN 205 KM 106 @ (02227) 421700. Also swimming pool Polo: There are three polo clubs in the district and several championships are organized locally

BUENOS AIRES s Excursions

Sport in Navarro • Navarro Golf Club, 30 km north-west on RP 41 @ 45814777/45832014

•

p Sightseeing •

• •

Capilla Nuestra Señora del Carmen was built in 1803. Built in gothic style it consists of three naves. The altar is made of Carrara marble and onyx, the cross on top of the altar comes from a Jesuit mission Finca Histórica, in 25 de Mayo is one of the oldest buildings in the region. Museo y Biblioteca “Juan Domingo Perón”, Presidente J.D. Perón 482. This is the birthplace of the former President and military leader. The house has been restored and on exhibit are memorabilia of one of the most colorful leaders of Argentina. Open Wed and Sun 10:00–12:00 and 15:00–18:00

•

Laguna de Lobos: 10 km south. The laguna covers 865 ha (2137 acres) and is 1.6–1.9 m deep, depending on the rainfall. The east side of the lake has been subdivided and consists of a colony of vacation cabins, and near the water several major clubs have camping areas. The nort- eastern sector is reserved for speed boats. On the western side of the laguna is Estancia El Palacio, a cattle station with a private museum concentrating on the life of the gaucho. The estancia with the museum is open to tourists Estancia La Candelaria, RN 205 KM 115 @4 94132. This is a polo ranch offering accommodation in a mansion reminiscent of a French castle in the Loire valley. Besides polo it has a swimming pool, tennis courts and is only 10 km away from the Lobos Golf course

LUJÁN

Luján Population: 75 000 Postal code: 6700 @ area code: (02323) Altitude: sea level Distance from Buenos Aires: 70 km east on RN 7

L

uján is located on the Río Luján. It is the major Catholic shrine in Argentina, and a place of worship for many pilgrims all year round, not only from Argentina but also from Uruguay, Paraguay, and Chile. The shrine’s origin goes back to 1630, when an image of the Virgin Mary was carried around the district from church to church in an ox cart. At the spot where the church now stands the cart became stuck, and this was seen as a sign that the Virgin wanted to remain on this spot. The first building on the site was only a small chapel, but now a magnificent neo-Gothic basilica has been built and the Virgin has found her place on the high altar. The individual arches and two of the transepts are dedicated to the Argentine Provinces and to Uruguay and Paraguay, the countries linked to Argentina by special bonds. Included here is the small town of Mercedes located 30 km south-west at the intersection of RN 5 and RP 41. It is a golf and polo center. Empresa

Liniers has 8 services daily to Buenos Aires (3 hrs).

A Festivals

•

143

Fiesta de la Virgen de Luján: May 8

Luján

PAMPA PROVINCES Key to map A C D E I $ T

Basilica Nuestra Señora de Luján Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Dirección de Turismo Money exchange Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 2 4 6 9 11 12

•

Hospedaje Santa Rita Hospedaje Biarritz Hostería City Hotel Hotel Real Luján Hospedaje Brown Hotel Catedral

13 14 17 21 22 23 25

26 27 28 29

4 Eating out 3 5 7 8

Restaurant El Mejor Restaurant Rancho X Restaurant Los Quinchos Restaurant El Negrito de la Virgen 15 Restaurant El Cabildo 16 Restaurant San Martín

• • • • • • • • • •

Horse pilgrimage: last Sunday in September

B Tourist information •

18 19 20 24

Hotel de la Paz Hotel Eros Hotel Los Monjes Hospedaje Carena Hotel Victoria Hospedaje Royal Hotel Centro

Dirección de Turismo, Edificio La Cúpula, opposite Parque Florentino Ameghino @ 420453

E Eating out Restaurants • Alfil, San Martín 464 • Bristol II, Liniers 100 • Colón, Colón 1013 • Cristóbal, Colón 964 • Don Antonio, San Martín 383 • El Cabildo, San Martín 183

1

Restaurant Los Gallegos Restaurant El Trébol Restaurant El Moderno Restaurant Trattoria de YiYo Restaurant Don Antonio Restaurant Colón Restaurant Alfil Restaurant Cristóbal

Sights

Complejo Museografico Enrique Udaondo 10 Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes “Fernán Félix de Amador”

El Mejor, Lezica y Torrezuri 799 El Moderno, 9 de Julio 950 El Negrito de la Virgen, San Martín 9 El Trébol, 9 de Julio 990 Los Gallegos, San Martín 128 Los Quinchos, Mitre 25 Prestige, San Martín 135 Rancho X, Lezica y Torrezuri 659 San Martín, San Martín 191 Trattoria de YiYo, 9 de Julio 612

n Entertainment

•

Cine Teatro Luján, Padre Salvaire near San Martín

C Accommodation in Luján

During religious celebrations, such as Easter, accommodation is scarce and prices tend to rise. Hotels *** ** ** * * * *

Hosterías *

City Hotel, Lezica y Torrezuri 631

Hospedajes A A A A A B

Luján

@ @ @ @ @ @ @

420606 430670 420054/55 420667 424034 421658 420528

$E $F

2 2

$F $F

2 2

AELPV

@

421546

$H

2

LPS LP LP LPS

@ @ @ @

421230 420623 421287 421295

$F

2

$F

2

@

420981

Los Monjes, Francia 981 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Catedral, 9 de Julio 1074 AEFGJLPSUV Real Luján, Ave. Nuestra Sra. de Luján 816 Centro, Francia 1062 AELPV De la Paz, 9 de Julio 1054 ADEFLPV Eros, San Martín 135 AF Victoria, Lavalle 136

Biarritz, Lezica y Torrezuri 717 Brown, Almirante Brown 10 Carena, Lavalle 114 Royal, 9 de Julio 696 Venecia, Almte Brown 100 Santa Rita, Lezica y Torrezuri 857

144

BUENOS AIRES To Buenos Aires

JÁN

LU RÍO

Parque Ameghino

5

I

6

4

3 2

RREZURI

1 9

AIRE PADRE SALV A

10

8

9 DE JULIO

22

17

ALTE BROWN

21

25 DE MAYO

19 20 18

LAVALLE

SAN MATÍN

MITRE

14 12 13 15 16

T

ÁN NUESTRA SRA DE LUJ

Parque Plaza Belgrano Belgrano

7

11

CERVANTES

LEZICA Y TO

23

24

FRANCIA

25

RIVADAVIA

26

ITALIA

28 27

E

COLÓN

29

C

LUJÁN

MARIANO MORENO

I Post and telegraph • •

line to get to Once station in Buenos Aires

Post Office: Correo Argentino, B. Mitre 575 Telephone: Telecom, Colón 911

a Sport

•

Golf: Club C. de G. Praderas de Luján Ruta 192 KM 6.5 @ (02323) 496209/12 Polo ranches • Estancia Los Patricios. This polo ranch is located 15 km from town on RN 8. There are three polo fields and expert teaching staff. For further information contact Cigale Viajes y Turismo, Avenida Córdoba 369

U Motoring • •

Service station: A.C.A., RN 7 KM 62 A1 Rent a Car, 25 de Mayo 540 @ 428465

T Trains •

Buenos Aires: 2 hrs. Change at Moreno to the F C General Sarmiento

145

Luján

PAMPA PROVINCES S Buses from Luján

The bus terminal is on Avenida Nuestra Señora de Luján 600. Bus companies Transportes Automotores Luján, Expreso Liniers, La Estrella, Empresa Argentina, Empresa Atlántida, Transportes Automotores La Plata, Empresa La Isleña, Empresa San José S.R.L., and Expreso Paraná. Long-distance services • •

Destination Fares Services Buenos Aires (Once Station) $4.40 8 daily

• •

Buenos Aires (Palermo) $4.40 Córdoba $36.00 Mar del Plata $30.00

• • • • • •

Mendoza Pinamar Rosario San Juan San Rafael Villa Gesell

Duration

2 hrs Talsa, Transporte Automotores Luján Empresa Atlántida General Urquiza Empresa Atlántida, Empresa Argentina La Estrella–La Puntual Empresa Atlántida General Urquiza La Estrella–La Puntual La Estrella–La Puntual Empresa Atlántida

3 daily

$48.00 $14.00 $51.00 $48.00

@ (011) 43226023 fax (011)43226683 (1054) Buenos Aires • Estancia Los Tala, 19 km south of town on RP 47 to Navarro. The main building dates from 1824. This is a polo ranch-cum-museum and can be visited with a tour operator. The library has 40 000 volumes including the archives of Juan Bautista Alberdi and contemporary furniture. Barbecues are held accompanied by guitar music Sport in Mercedes Mercedes is located 30 km south-west on RN 5. Postal code: 6600 • Golf: Golf Club Mercedes, RN 5 KM 104.5 @ (02324) 426675/423053

•

•

p Sightseeing •

Company

millions of pilgrims every year, not only from Argentina but also from Uruguay and Paraguay Complejo Museografico Enrique Udaondo (Enrique Udaondo Museographical Museum Complex), Juan de Lezica y Torrezuri 917. The exhibit is in three different locations on a 1 ha (3 acre) block: the old Cabildo, Casa del Virrey and the Museo de Transporte. A good display and overview of the historical and political development of Argentina. Open Sat, Sun 14:45–17:30 Other museums: Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes “Fernán Félix de Amador, 9 de Julio 863; Museo Devocional, Padre Salvaire near Mitre

Basilica Nuestra Señora de Luján (Our Lady of Luján Basilica). Attracts

MAR DE AJÓ

Mar de Ajó Population: 11 000 Postal code: 7109 @ area code:(02257) Distance from Buenos Aires: 370 km south-east on RN 2 and RP 11 Mar de Ajó

146

BUENOS AIRES

F

irst mentioned in the days of the Caudillo Manuel de Rosas, its beginning as a seaside resort stems from 1964. Mar de Ajó is one of the cheaper seaside resorts on the Atlantic coast. Its eleven extensive beaches are 80 m wide and have shallow waters. The constant sea breeze keeps the dunes moving along the

C Accommodation in Mar de Ajó Hotels *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

• • • • • •

Amancay, Blanco Encalada 301 AEFGJLPUV Araucano, Costanera Norte 680 Casablanca, Melón Gil 56 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Hostería Mar de Ajó, Avenida Costanera 205 AEFGJKLPTUVY Latinoamericano, Avenida Costanera 27 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Silvio, Avenida Costanera 1212 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Via Marina, Avenida Costanera 1434 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Alba, Melón Gil 85 AEFGJLPUV Fritzy, H. Yrigoyen near Montevideo AEFGJLPUV Marcela (Flamingo), Avenida Costanera 343 AEFPU Regina, M. Lebensohn 290 AEFGJLPUV San Rafael, J. Newbery 173 AEFGJLPUV Venezia, J. Newbery 27 AEFGJLPUV Acuario, Corrientes 41 AELPV Adriger, Avenida Libertador 634 AELPV América, F. de las Carreras 56 AELPV Bahía, Avellaneda 526 AELPV Bari, F. de las Carreras 513 AELPV Cervantes, Avenida Libertador 56 AELPV Compostela, Avenida Libertador 345 AELPV Dali–Coon, J. Newbery 36 AELPV Dorin’s, Avenida Libertador 166 AELPV El Pescador, Avenida Costanera 770 AELPV Galicia, Manuel Rico 177 AELPV Gran Bacu, H. Yrigoyen 597 AELPV Pipach, San Juan 34 AELPV Tupe, Lebensohn 248 ALPV Hotel Los Cerillos, Montevideo 650 Hotel Munich, Fco de las Carreras 555 Hotel Olimpo, Libres del Sur 46 Hotel Pino, Azopardo 266 Hotel Shelter, Quinteros 173 Hotel Sol, Avellaneda 1’20

Hospedajes A A A A A A A A A B

Albatros 2, Brown near Fco de las Carreras LP Arco Iris, San Luis 47 LP Costanera, Avenida Costanera 15 LP Dunamar, Belgrano 1263 LP El Muelle, J. Newbery 721 LP Frente Al Mar, Avenida Costanera 267 LP Marisol, Castelli 22 LP Patri, J. Newbery 995 LP Punta del Este, Montevideo 470 LP Solimar, Fco de las Carreras 1154 L

147

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420142 420103 421175

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420254 420006 421558 420407 420146 420168 420249/421641 420164/420197 420240 420797 420220 420014 420224 420187 420779 420018 420091 420105 420017 420095/420275 420223 420411 420189/420176 420253 420110 420206 420100 420164 421183

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420256 420615 420232 421469 420144 420129 420989 420572 420136 420463

Mar de Ajó

PAMPA PROVINCES To Villa Gesell and Pinamar

SGO DEL ESTERO

CASTELLI 3 2

I

4

AVE. MITRE

J. MARMOL C

5

QUINTEROS AG DI

12

10 11

14

E

A ON

F. DE LAS CARRERAS

L 18

17

T

A 21

20

22

$ 25 26

ESPORA

A

AZOPARDO

H.YRIGOYEN

BOUCHARD

19

27

23

28 29

LA RIOJA 15

SAN JUAN

MELON GIL 24

NEWBERY

AVELLANEDA

LEBENSOHN

MONTEVIDEO

BLANCO ENCALADA

VI DA VA RI

16

J. ROSAS

9

8

CATAMARCA

A AVE. COSTANER

N Playa Playa

Playa

MAR ARGENTINO

MAR DE AJÓ

Key to map A B C D E I $ T

Parroquía Santa Margarita Gobernación Provincial (Government) Municipalidad (Town hall) Post Office & Telex (Encotesa) Telefónica Argentina Oficina de Turismo Banco de la Provincia (ATM) Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 2 3 4

Hotel Los Cerillos Hospedaje Marisol Hotel Adriger

Mar de Ajó

5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 15 18 19 20 21 23 24 26

Hotel Bahía Hospedaje Punta del Este Hotel Pino Hotel Shelter Hotel Olimpo Hotel Munich Hotel Bari Hotel Amancay Hotel Compostela Hotel América Hotel Gran Bacu Hotel Regina Hotel Tupe Hotel Dorin’s Hotel Sol Hotel El Trébol

148

29 Hotel Cervantes

4 Eating out 14 16 17 28 30

Restaurant El Alamo Restaurant Don Valentín Restaurant El Colonial Restaurant Don Sancho Restaurant Don Tato

5 Entertainment 22 Bingo 25 Cine Rex 27 Cine Playa

To Santa Teresita and San Bernardo

7 6

AVE. LIBERTADOR GENERAL SAN MARTÍN

LIBRES DEL SUR

BUENOS AIRES beaches. To the south are new beach resort developments: Nueva Atlantis, Costa Esmeralda and Pinar del Sol. Twenty-four km south is Punta Médanos which is in its natural state. Here small four-wheel drive vehicles with wide tyres are necessary to drive over and along the large and steep dunes. Nearby is a lighthouse tower. Shopping in Mar de Ajó is concentrated on Avenida San Martín between Hipólito Yrigoyen and Santiago del Estero. Hipólito Yrigoyen is a pedestrian mall between Avenida San Martín and Diagonal Rivadavia.

Pizzerías • Oásis, F de las Carreras near Avenida del Libertador • San José, H. Yrigoyen near Rivadavia

n Entertainment

• • • •

B Tourist information •

Oficina de Turismo, Avenida Libertador San Martín near Manuel Rico @ 420139

Bingo, H. Yrigoyen 171 Disco De Dix, Ave. Del Libertador 801 Pub La Tasca, H. Yrigoyen 64 Pub El Funcional, H. Yrigoyen 66

I Post and telegraph

• •

D Camping

Charges are $J per person per site. • Camping General Lavalle, Pueyrredón near Francisco de las Carreras @ 420104 • Camping El Muelle, Córdoba near Catamarca @ 420158 • Camping Los Alamos, Olmos near Argentina @ 420156

Post office: Encotesa, Espora 55 Telephones: Telefónica Argentina, F. de las Carreras 73

L Financial

•

Banco de la Provincia, H. Yrigoyen 303 @ 420121. ATM

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Avenida Pueyrredón between Ascasubi and P. Palacios. • El Rápido Argentino has daily services to La Plata.

E Eating out

Meals range in cost from $Z to $Y. Cafeterías • El Funcional, H. Yrigoyen 64 • El Quijote, Fco de las Carreras 56 Restaurants • Don Tato, Avenida del Libertador and Costanera. Parilla • Don Sancho, Libertador 80 between B. de Irigoyen and Costanera • Don Valentín, Fco de las Carreras 176 • El Alamo, Quinteros 36 • El Colonial, Lebensohn 133 • El Molino, Jorge Newbery 74 between Avellaneda and Libertador • La Cantina Italiana, Avenida Libertador near Quinteros

a Sport

Fishing is possible in the Laguna Grande some 30 km east. • Club de Pesca y Náutica Mar de Ajó, Avenida Costanera near Lavalle @ 421227

s Excursions Tour operators • Turismo Playa, Fco. de Las Carrera near Bouchardo @ 20202

149

Mar de Ajó

PAMPA PROVINCES

MAR DEL PLATA

Mar del Plata Population: 520 000 Postal code: 7600 @ area code: (0223) Distance from Buenos Aires: 407 km south on RN 2

ar del Plata (or “Mardel” for short) is Argentina’s largest seaside resort—it may well be called South America’s summer playground.

Mar del Plata was founded in 1874 by Peralta Ramos, and since 1917 it is also a port; indeed it has Argentina’s largest fishing fleet. It is a modern city with wide avenues and spacious parks and plazas. Between late December and mid-March it is very crowded but fairly quiet for the rest of the year. The beach near Mar del Plata extends for 17 km and sandy stretches alternate with rocky parts. During the summer holidays the Buenos Aires opera has performances here. Indeed Mar del Plata is a very cultured city, and many social events and theatrical performances take place during the holiday season. All major hotels have casinos. The surrounding area is also dotted with places of interest which can be visited with a tour operator. Golf and tennis and aquatic clubs with their excellent sport and restaurant facilities welcome visitors. Mardel’s climate is similar to that of Sydney, Australia: the driest months are June, July and August, with March the wettest month; however there are rainy periods throughout the year. Temperatures rarely reach freezing point, the coolest months being June, July, and August with temperatures ranging between 8°C and 15°C (45–60°F). The hottest months are December, January, and February with

Mar del Plata

temperatures ranging between 20°C and 30°C (65–85°F). Mardel’s hinterland is flat country with large estancias Parque Camet

2

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Punta Mogotes

11

MAR PLATA Los DEL Acantilados METROPOLITANA

150

BUENOS AIRES C Accommodation in Mar del Plata

Accommodation is more expensive close to the seaside. Bulevar Peralto Ramos is also called Bulevar Marítimo. Accommodation in center north See map on page 150. Hotels **** **** **** **** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** **

Astor, Entre Ríos 1649 ADEHP Gran Dorá, Buenos Aires 1841 ADEFP$U Gran Iruña, Alberdi 2270 ADEFP$ Fax 4911183 Versailles, Pedro Luro 2426 ADEHP Brunetti, La Rioja 1250 ADEFHP$ Corbel, Córdoba 1870 AEPTU Dión, Santa Fe 1634 AEHPT Gran Hotel Manila, Ave. Luro 2286 ADEHP Gran Hotel Provincial, Marítimo 2300ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Guerrero, J.B. Alberdi 2288 ADHPU Lincoln, Mitre 1459 AEHPU Manila I, Entre Ríos 1648 ADEHP Mustang, 11 de Septiembre 2760 ASPU Presidente, Corrientes 1516 AEFHP Prince, Santiago del Estero 1649 ADFHP Reina’s, Catamarca 1154 ADHPU Rivoli, Pedro Luro 2260 ADEHP Sennac, La Rioja 1339 ADEHP Skorpios, 3 de Febrero 3071 AEHPU Traful, H. Yrigoyen 1190 ADEHP Valles, Pedro Luro 2487 ADEPU Venezia, Ave. Independencia 1026 ADFHPU Adriático, 11 de Septiembre 2752 AEFP Almte Brown, 9 de Julio 2381 ADEFHP Armida, Balcarce 2867 ADEPU Atlántico, Ave. Libertad 2990 ADEFPU Bastit, La Rioja 1036 AEHPU Bertiami, Ave. Libertad 3182 AEPU Bologna, 9 de Julio 2542 AEP Cinalli, La Rioja 1087 AEHP City, Diag. Alberdi 2561 ADEHPU Corona, Ave. Libertad 3026 AEP Del Paseo, Rivadavia 2569 ADEMPTU Delfín, Rivadavia 2556 AEPU Dunas, Balcarce 3285 AP España, Ave. Luro 2964 AEP Gran Mar, La Rioja 1740 ADEGPTV Gran Panorama, 3 de Febrero 3142 AEFPU Ideal, 3 de Febrero 2663 AEP Ipanema, Libertad 3222 AEPU Nápoles, Ave. Independencia 1085 AEFHP Novator, La Rioja 1041 ADEFHPTUV Novi, H. Yrigoyen 1311 AEFPU Nuevo Ostende, H. Yrigoyen 1737 ADEPU Olamar, La Rioja 1423 AEFP Panamericano, H. Yrigoyen 1683 ADEPTU Peninsular, 9 de Julio 2987 AEFPU

151

@ @

4921616/19 fax $D 4910033 fax $D

2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

4911060 4916524 4951087 4934424 4948756 4958211 4916376 4958851/2 fax 4951388 4911159 4936800 49103047 4920406 4953447 4930051–57 4956465 4935758 4936650 4920013 4937978 4935868 4958777 4937814 4954085 4948800 4930999 4938018 4932565 4912938 4953360 4939036 4958571 4953777 4950526 4935475 4943686

$D $E

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4954723 4952051 4950470 4951778 4950081 4940662 4956041 4954151

$F/G 2

$F

2

Mar del Plata

PAMPA PROVINCES Accommodation in Mar del Plata — continued ** ** ** * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Plaza España, Maipú 3155 AFPT Regidor, H. Yrigoyen 1374 ADEFP Saavedra, Córdoba 1432 AEPT Aduar, Salta 955 AEFPU Albamar, Balcarce 2833 AEP Alpino, Balcarce 2999 AEHP Andorra, Catamarca 1153 AEFP Astorga, Ave. Independencia 1009 AEHP Benidorm, Catamarca 1025 AEP Bermudas, 3 de Febrero 2484 AEHPU Bolívar, Balcarce 2986 AEFHP Boston, Córdoba 1456 AEHP Castelar, H Yrigoyen 1154 Corales, Ave. Independencia 648 AEFHPT Dubrovnik, La Rioja 1063 AEPT Elvines, 3 de Febrero 2472 AEP Florida, Salta 1357 AEP Gade, Salta 724 AEP Hawaii, Chacabuco 3146 ADEHPT Indian Palace, 3 de Febrero 2957 AEPT King’s, Pedro Luro 2220 AEPU Kube, Salta 928 AEFHP La Mirage, 9 de Julio 2642 AFPT Lacar, Salta 874 AEPT Lomas Palcace, Santa Fe 1347 AP Lumington, Balcarce 3027 AEPT Mar Argentino, 3 de Febrero 2851 AEP Mar del Mundo, Catamarca 1239 AEP Maryland, 11 de Septiembre 2796 AEP Nane, Salta 842 AEHPT Ocean Nelson, Balcarce 3101 AEP O Sole Mio, Ave. Independencia 1277 AEFP Olimpia, Ave. Libertad 3266 AEHPT Portofino, Catamarca 861 AEFHPT Puerto Banus, Balcarce 2833 AEP Sesán, Catamarca 1229 AEP Sol y Mar, 3 de Febrero 2915 AEP Storni, 11 de Septiembre 2642 AEPU Super, 3 de Febrero 2463 AEP Tivoli, Salta 1462 AEP

Accommodation in the city center See map on page 160. **** **** **** **** **** ****

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

4749922 4937806 4938443 4732020 4933436 4931034 fax 4936525 4951174 4957608 4932631 4950709 4954506 4954040 4737697 4959456 4952185 4737484 4739371 4735683 4957624 4930081/2 4748314 4923661 4738082 4954206 4956444 4951389 4930245 4954835 4738996 4959392 4956685 4956606 4732504 4933436 4917388 4953615 4916200 4949954 4954947

$F $F

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$F

2

Argentino, Belgrano 2225 ADEHP$U @ 4930091/94 fax $D Dos Reyes, Colón 2129 AEMP Fax 4912916; @ 4910383 $D Gran Hotel Hermitage, Bulevar Marítimo (Peralta Ramos) 2657 Fax 4517235 AEFHP$ @ 4519633 $D Gran Hotel Provincial, Bvar p.p. Ramos 2300 @ 4916376 $D ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Gran República, Córdoba 1968 ADEFHPU Fax 4921148 @ 4921141 $D Gran Tronador, Moreno 2541 ACP @ 4951798 $D/E

Mar del Plata

152

2 2 2 2 2 2

BUENOS AIRES Accommodation in Mar del Plata — continued **** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * *

Vison, Belgrano 2609 AEP$U Fax 4954488 América, Bolívar 2322 AEPU Augusto, Bolívar 2370 ADEFHPV Benedetti, Colón 2198 AEHPT Carlos V, Belgrano 2674 AEHP Castelmar, Brown 2347 AEFP Condesa del Mar, Falucho 2652 AFPR Cosmos, Buenos Aires 2481 AEFHP Denver, Arenales 2477 ADEP Web site: www.hoteldenver.com.ar Estocolmo, Santa Fe 2070 AFHMP Flamingo, Moreno 2155 AEP Garden, Moreno 2393 AEFP Gran Ducal, Santa Fe 1973 ADEHP Gran Hotel Continental, Córdoba 1929 Fax 4922443 AEPU Gran Hotel Mónaco, Santiago del Estero 2156 AFHPU Gran Opera, Falucho 1938 AFHPU Ibiza, Gascón 1749 AEP Minerva, Bolívar 2535 ADEHP Punta del Este, B Moreno 2563 AEHP Vaness, Corrientes 1842 ADEPU Alto Valle, Buenos Aires 2338 ADEP Astro, Bolívar 2373 ADEHPV Casablanca, Mitre 2151 AEFHPU Catedral, Moreno 2327 ADEHP Center, Belgrano 2187 ADEHPTU Compostela, Belgrano 2561 AFHPU Dallas Centre, Belgrano 2368 AEPU Elisabeth, Santiago del Estero 2430 AEFP La Salle, Entre Ríos 2262 ADEFPU L’Eté, Corrientes 2276 AFP Luso Argentino, Santa Fe 2075 AEPTU Mar Azul, Belgrano 2713 AEHPU Marbella, Corrientes 2131 AEHPU Miglierina, Belgrano 2367 AEPU Montreal, Corrientes 1886 AEPU Napoleón, Santa Fe 1913 AEPU Neptuno, Brown 1959 ADEFPU Nuevo San Marcos, Falucho 1843 AEHPU Ortegal, Moreno 2476 AEP Park, Gascón 1970 AFHPU Piemonte, Buenos Aires 2447 ADFHPU Repetto, Las Heras 2285 AEPT Rutibell, Bolívar 2452 AEFPU Salliquelo, Las Heras 2443 AEP San Remo, Belgrano 2338 ADEHPT Selent, Arenales 2347 ADEHPU Tirol, Mitre 2024 AEHPU Waldorf, Buenos Aires 2389 AEFPU Andes, Moreno 2445 AEP Aragón, Buenos Aires 1933 AELPV Arcos, Entre Ríos 1975 ADEPTU

153

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

4910798 4939757 4957059 4930031/33 4952049 4945115 4955420 4933544 4954651

$D $E

2 2

$E $F $E $E $D $G/H

2 2 2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @

4910912 fax 4941080 4957091 4949450

$D $E $F $E

2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

4921300 4937299 4951795 4942681 4954002 fax 4942000 4944909 4958743 4943929 4917725 4942447 4954066 4952796 4952937 4950099 4957252 4944205 4957184 fax 4952066 4956232 4957023 fax 4945984 4941006 4955439 4953988 4958811 4942582 4954113 4957380 4953397 4959117 4936608 4940878 4958425 4931825 4959740 4953064 4953771

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$F/G 2 $G $F

2 2

Mar del Plata

PAMPA PROVINCES Accommodation in Mar del Plata — continued * * * * * * * * * * * *

Ca D’Oro, Las Heras 2439 Cervantes, Santiago del Estero 2181 Chila, Gascón 2536 Czerwiak, Gascón 1740 Frandor’s, Belgrano 2243 Lebet, Entre Ríos 2282 Nuevo Ranglani, Bolívar 2556 Po, Entre Ríos 1989 Ramos Mejía, Entre Ríos 1961 Roland, Corrientes 1965 San Carlos, Lamadrid 2408 Select, Corrientes 1966

Accommodation near bus terminal See map on page 162. Hotels *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Cadi Palace, Las Heras 2699 Corcel, Las Heras 2920 Nuevo Horizonte, Lamadrid 2506 Vip’s, Tucumán 2233 Alicante, Güemes 2255 Ambar, Brown 1640 Canciller, Gascón 1639 Eiffel, Güemes 3041 Esmeralda Select, Brown 1553 Europa, Arenales 2735 Hierco Mar, Güemes 3174 Imperio, Ave. Colón 1186 Lagos Argentinos, Garay 1545 Lyon, Las Heras 2731 Mediterráneo, Las Heras 2936 Nelimar, Falucho 1563 Nuevo Embajador, Alsina 2571 Pedro I, Alvarado 1832 Riazor, Las Heras 2669 Trevi OSPG, Las Heras 2976 Vial Center, Tucumán 2417 Adel, Avellaneda 1206 Alsina, Alsina 2368 Apa, Falucho 1548 Atlas, Olavarría 2675 Bahía Blanca, Rawson 2039 Calash, Falucho 1355 Carla, Arenales 2578 Cecil, Güemes 2357 Christian, Tucumán 2918 Dante, Olavarría 2461 Danubio, Alvarado 1442 Don Quijote, Sarmiento 2478 El Cortijo, Tucumán 2912 Fama, Falucho 1575 Francis, Sarmiento 2742 Gaston, Falucho 1240 Harrington, Tucumán 2836

Mar del Plata

AEP ADEHPU AEP AHP AEFHP AEP AEHPU AEPU AEPU AP AEP AEHPU

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

4936308 4951049 4935710 4941966 4934423 4958593 4933730 4950068 4940084 fax 4922069 4958829 4938079

AEFPU AEFPU AHP AEFHPU AEHP ADEHPTU AEHP AEFPU ADEFHP AFPU AHP AEFHP ADEHP AEPU ADEP AFP ADFPT AFP AFP AEP AEP AEP AEP AEP AFPST AEP AEFP AEFP AEP ADEP AEFP AEHP AEPU AEP AEP AEPU AEFPU AEP

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

4937002 4513033 4936983 4947383 4517835 4512358 4863641 4519504 4513395 4940436 4515890 4512029 4515522 4930889 4511650 4514226 4519221 4942562 4944643 4517959 4913593 4510566 4514465 4514704 4511690 4931923 4516115 4914982 4513473 4943988 4515258 4514062 4514034 4935092 4516686 4862484 4514938 4940376

154

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$H $F

1 2

$G

2

$E

2

BUENOS AIRES Accommodation in Mar del Plata — continued * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Impala, Sarmiento 2833 AEP @ 4512536 Italia, Lamadrid 2941 AHP @ 4948087 La Madrileña, Sarmiento 2957 AHPT @ 4512072 Las Heras, Las Heras 2843 AFPT @ 4937841 Lores, Falucho 1552 AEPU @ 4512156 Mallorca, Sarmiento 3060 AEFHP @ 4511932 Mar, Gascón 1410 AEFP @ 4517269 Moli-Mar, Alberti 1956 AEP @ 4936138 fax $F Norma, Brown 1563 AEP @ 4512502 Ondina, Alsina 2359 AEP @ 4511017 Pergamino, Tucumán 2736 AEPU @ 4957927 $I Also operates a youth hostel February 15–December 15. Six blocks from beach Petit Maris, Castelli 1363 APTU @ 4519404 Pilmayquen, Garay 1831 AEFP @ 4942657 Roberts, Güemes 2551 ADEFP @ 4512865 Romero, Falucho 1644 AEHP @ 4514872 Santos, Güemes 2857 AEP @ 4512154 Sirenuse, Mendoza 2240 AEPU @ 4519580 Sol, Las Heras 2723 AEP @ 4938161 Tiber, Olavarría 2580 AEP @ 4519958 Tony, Alvarado 2066 AEHP @ 4515172 Venus, Falucho 1452 AEFP @ 4861972

2 1

Accommodation near the Puerto See map on page 165. Hotels ***** ***** **** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** * *

Costa Galana, Bulevar Marítimo 5725 ADFHKP$TU Fax 4862020 not on map Sheraton, Alem 4221 ADFHP$TU Fax 4999009 Las Rocas, Alberti 9 AEFHPU Amsterdam, Bvar Marítimo 4799 ADPU Marino, Alem 3641 AFPU Club del Golf, A. Del Valle 3641 AEPU Marysol, A. Del Valle 3531 ADEFHPU San Marco, A. Del Valle 3144 ADEFHP Stella Maris, Alem 3495 AEP Zárate, Garay 24 AEFHPU Austral, Alem 3602 AP Los Angeles, Alem 2642 AEP

Accommodation near railroad station Hotels * *

Don Bosco, Ave. Luro 4802 Nueva Italia, Ave. Luro 4794

APR

@

4860000

$A

2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

4999000 $A 4515362/3 fax $D 4515137 4513304 4513456 4516189 4517023 4512941 4518897/8 4512225 4515376

2 2

@ @

4723125 4725016

Accommodation in Playa Punta Mogotes Hotels **** *** *** **

Gran Hotel Casino Sasso, M de Hoz 3545 @ 4842500 Fax 4842505 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Los Acantilados, Calle 36 near 5 AEFPR @ 4675005 Torremolinos, M. de Hoz 1805 AFHPU @ 4841006 Soleares, Pacheco 2168 ADEHPTU @ 4842794

155

$D

2

Mar del Plata

PAMPA PROVINCES •

producing cattle and grain. It is definitely gaucho country where good horsemanship is part of the lifestyle. Indeed many large haciendas have there own polo courses and can be visited as part of a guided tour. There are a few hilly areas going further inland towards Balcarce; see page 117. Near the small town of Coronel Vidal some 61 km north is the oldest pulpería or gaucho tavern in Argentina, said to be 160 years old; see Excursions from Santa Clara del Mar on page 211. RP 11 links Mar del Plata along the coast with Miramar south and Villa Gesell to the north. There are frequent buses between the various seaside resorts. Mar del Plata’s tourist facilities are definitely world-class.

Camping Laguna de los Padres, KM 15 @ 4630232

E Eating out

Eating out north-west of Avenida Colón Restaurants A parrilla is a type of grill. • Ambos Mundos, Rivadavia 2644. International cuisine • Antártida, Pedro Luro 2156. International cuisine and shows • Biergarten, Bulevar Marítimo 2411. German cuisine • Caballito Blanco, Rivadavia 2534 $X. International cuisine • Cantina Gruta de Capri, Belgrano 2161. Seafood • Cantina Nápoli, Santiago del Estero 1775. Parrilla • Cari-Lauquen, Bolívar 2801. Parrilla • Centro Asturiano, Jujuy 2285. Spanish cuisine • Centro de Castilla y León, H. Yrigoyen 2067. Spanish cuisine • Club Mitre, Bolívar 3367. Parrilla A Festivals & • Coyote, Avenida Constitución 6650 • Foundation day: February 10 next to Disco Sobremonte. Mexican • Día de la Tradición (Day of Tradicuisine tion): November 10 • Don Alejo, Libertad 5301. Parrilla • Festival Folklórico de La Danza Junto • Don Genaro, Constitución 4402. Inal Mar: April ternational cuisine • Don Gregorio, Constitución 4698. B Tourist information Parrilla • Ente Municipal de Turismo, Boule• El Bifacho, San Luis 1622. Parrilla vard Marítimo 2267 @ 4950853 • El Brasero, Rivadavia 2192. Parrilla fax 4942553; Web site: www.argenet. • El Nuevo Cardón. Mitre 2047. Parrilla com.ar/emtur/ • El Rey del Bife, Avenida Colón 2863. • Subsecretaría de Turismo de la Parrilla Provincia de Buenos Aires, Boule• El Viejo Matías. Avenida vard Marítimo 2500, Galería Hotel Constitución 4592. Parrilla Provincial local 60 @ 425340/4951777 • Finca del Sol, San Martín 2463 (up• Secretaría de Turismo de la Nación, stairs). Vegetarian cuisine Boulevard Marítimo 2500, Galería • Guni, Rivadavia 2745. Pizzería Hotel Provincial local 57 @/fax 493859 • Jockey Club, Salta 2269. International cuisine D Camping • Juan de los Palotes, Avenida Camping spot $I 4; Cabins $H 4 Constitución 4595. Parrilla • La Huerta, Santiago del Estero 1719. Camping on RP 11 Vegetarian cuisine • Campamento Las Brusquitas, RP 11 • La Alambra, 25 de Mayo, 3805. KM 39 south of Punta Mogotes Parrilla • Campamento Acuario, Barrio San • & La Paella, Entre Ríos 2025. InternaPatricio tional cuisine • Campamento Los Pinos, RN 226 • Tía Teresa, San Luis 2081. Italian cuiKM 15. Located on Laguna de los Pasine dres Mar del Plata

156

BUENOS AIRES Tonne, Belgrano 2253. German cui• Taberna Baska, 12 de Octubre 3301. Seafood sine • Tía Pepina, H. Yrigoyen 2699. Sea• Trattoria Napolitana, 3 de Febrero food 3158. Italian cuisine & • Trenque Lauquen, Mitre 2803 near • Verdi, Rejón 3656. French cuisine Garay $X. Parrilla Cafeterías, tearooms and fast food/self serve Venus, Alsina 2256. International cui• • Pumpernic, San Martín 2339. sine Self-serve Cafeterías, tearooms and fast food/self serve • La Cuadrada, 9 de Julio. Tea room • Ficus, Falucho 2740. Tea room • Rómulo y Remo, San Luis 1203 Eating out in the Centro Eating out south-east of Avenida Colón Restaurants Restaurants and pizzerías • El Fogón, Alberti 2123 • Atalaya del Mar, Escollera Club de • Loma Rica, Santiago del Estero 1330 Pesca. Seafood • Tinto i Soda, Catamarca 2436 • Cantábrico, Avenida J.B. Justo 1800. Spanish cuisine Pizzerías • Casa de Alto, Independencia 3388. In• Costa Brava, San Martín 2547 ternational cuisine • Valentino, H. Yrigoyen 1665 • City, Castelli 3200. Italian cuisine • Don Armando, San Lorenzo 3101. Inn Entertainment ternational cuisine The biggest concentration of discos and • El Boticario, Almafuerte 241. Internanight clubs is on Avenida Constitución. tional cuisine • Casino Central, Bulevar Marítimo • El Dragón Dorado, Alberti 1555. Chi2100 nese cuisine • Casino Hotel Hermitage, Bulevar • El Rincón de los Amigos, Córdoba Marítimo 2757 2580. Parrilla • Casino Hotel Sasso, Martínez de Hoz • El Timón, Martínez de Hoz near 12 de 3545 Octubre, in Centro Comercial Puerto; • Cine Luro, Avenida Luro 4430 $Y. Seafood • Dancing Club Edad Madura, Gascón • El Viejo Pop, Centro Comercial 3540 Puerto; $Y. International cuisine • Disco Archie, Bulevar Marítimo 3200 • Fontanella, Rawson 2302. Interna• Disco Canela, Constitución 4478. tional cuisine Fri–Sun, all ages • Hilton, Alberti 1501. Chinese cuisine • Disco Go!, Constitución 5700. Dance • La Caracola, Martínez de Hoz near 12 hall for 2500 persons. Rock and Roll de Octubre in Centro Comercial band Puerto. Seafood • Disco Sobremonte, Constitución • La Luna, Castelli 2676. Chinese cui6690. Fri–Sun; dance hall for 6000 persine sons, live band; all ages, couples only. • La Libertad, Catamarca 2395. Parrilla • Disco Summertime, Constitución • La Marca, Almafuerte 253. Parrilla 6416. Fri–Sun; all ages • La Marina, 12 de Octubre 3147. Sea• Disco Sunset, Constitución 5096; adfood mission $Y. All ages, couples only • Mesón Navarro, J.B. Justo 1966. Sea• Disco Xanadú, Constitución 6700. All food ages, couples only • Rincón Andaluz, Arenales 2466. Sea• Disco Ydolem, Constitución 5268 food • Jazz bands Los Alegres ‘20, Avenida • Rincón Basko, J.B. Justo 2466. Seafood Luro 4064. Shows • Ruca Lauquen, Alberti 2429. Parrilla • Jazz bands Papa Montero, España • Sortilege-Zabalitas, L.N. Alem 4601 1839 near Pringles $Y. International cui• Tanguería del 40, Constitución 5203. sine Tango dancing; adults • Stella Maris, Alberti 1201. International cuisine •

&

& &

&

157

Mar del Plata

PAMPA PROVINCES To Pinamar

To Santa Clara del Mar 1

M A R D E L P L ATA CENTRO NORTE

11

AYACUCHO

Pl

To Buenos Aires

2

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32

36

31

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73

JOSÉ DE SAN MARTÍN

86

88

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DI . ALBER 56 A V E . J .B AVE . LURO 69

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SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO

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To Miramar

•

Theaters Mar del Plata has two theaters where operas, recitals and concerts are given all year round; the big opera and theater season however is in January/February when virtually the whole cast of the Teatro Colón in Buenos Aires moves to Mar del Plata. The Teatro Auditorium is located in the Edificio Casino, Bvar Marítimo 2280 and Teatro Colón is located on H. Yrigoyen 1665.

Tanguería Baccardi, Avenida Constitución 5979 Entertainment in the city center • Casino Central, Bulevar Marítimo 2100 • Casino Hotel Provincial, Bulevar Marítimo 2500 • Chat Bar, Mitre 1831 • Cine Ambassador, Córdoba 1671 • Cine Plaza, Rivadavia 2536 • Dancing Club Edad Media, Belgrano 3264 • Tanguería Caribbean, Entre Ríos 2121 • Tanguería La Casa de Walter Berón, Moreno 2654. Shows

Mar del Plata

I Post and telegraph

• •

158

Post office: Correo Argentino, Pedro Luro 2460 near Santiago del Estero Telephones: Telefónica Argentina, Avenida Colón 2550

BUENOS AIRES Key to map A C D I

Catedral de San Pedro Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Ente Municipal de Turismo

3 Accommodation 1 2 3

4 5 6 7 8 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

Hotel Corales Hotel Gade Hotel Nane and Hotel Lacar Hotel Hawaii Hotel Portofino Hotel Aduar Hotel Kube Hotel Plaza España Hotel Ipanema and Hotel Olimpia Hotel Astorga and Hotel Nápoles Hotel Dunas Hotel Venezia Hotel Bertiami Hotel Ocean Nelson Hotel Benidorm and Hotel Atlántico Hotel Novator, Hotel Dubrovnik and Hotel Cinalli Hotel Corona Hotel Lumington Hotel Bastit Hotel Alpino Hotel Puerto Banus, Hotel Albamar and Hotel Armida Hotel Andorra Hotel Reina’s Hotel Bolívar Hotel Castelar and Hotel Traful Hotel O Sole Mio Hotel Sesán and Hotel Mar del Mundo Hotel Skorpios Hotel Brunetti

31 Hotel Sol y Mar and Hotel Indian Palace 32 Hotel Mar Argentino 33 Hotel Adriático, Hotel Mustang and Hotel Maryland 35 Hotel Storni 36 Hotel Ideal 37 Hotel Super 38 Hotel Florida 40 Hotel Gran Panorama 41 Hotel Sennac 42 Hotel Peninsular 43 Hotel Regidor 44 Hotel Novi 45 Hotel Elvines and Hotel Bermudas 46 Hotel Lomas Palace 47 Hotel Tivoli 48 Hotel Olamar 49 Hotel Lincoln 50 Hotel Bologna and Hotel La Mirage 51 Hotel Saavedra and Hotel Boston 52 Hotel Almte Brown 55 Hotel City 56 Hotel Valles 57 Hotel Presidente 58 Hotel Gran Iruña and Hotel Guerrero 59 Hotel España 61 Hotel Panamericano 68 Hotel Prince 69 Hotel Versailles 70 Hotel Dión 71 Hotel King’s, Hotel Rivoli and Hotel Gran Manila 72 Hotel Astor 73 Hotel Manila I 75 Hotel Gran Mar 76 Hotel Nuevo Ostende 80 Hotel Del Paseo 90 Hotel Corbel 91 Hotel Delfín 95 Hotel Gran Dora

4 Eating out

34 Cafetería Rómulo y Remo 39 Restaurant Trattoria Napolitana 62 Restaurant El Bifacho 67 Pizzería Costa Brava 77 Pizzería Guni 74 Restaurant Antártida 81 Restaurant La Huerta and Restaurant Cantina Nápoli 83 Restaurant Finca del Sol 84 Fast Food Pumpernic 88 Restaurant Ambos Mundos 93 Restaurant Caballito Blanco 94 Restaurant El Brasero

5 Entertainment 60 66 86 92

Teatro Colón Cine Ambassador Chat Bar Cine Plaza

6 Airline offices

65 Lapa 79 Dinar Líneas Aéreas

7 Tour operators and rent a car 64 Chamorro Viajes 82 Dynamic Viajes

L Financial 53 54 78 85

Cambios Jonestur Cambios Mar del Plata Cambios La Moneta Banco de Bostón

9 Sights 9

Museo Municipal de Ciencias Naturales “Lorenzo Scaglia”

0 Services

63 Oti International

L Financial

•

•

M Services and facilities

•

• • •

Banco de Boston, Ave. Independencia 1827 Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires, Brown 2048 Cambios Mar del Plata, Pedro Luro 3071 @ 4949103 Cambios Jonestur, Pedro Luro 3191 @ 4949103 Cambios La Moneta, Rivadavia 2623 @ 4950698

Cambio Mar del Plata, Buenos Aires 1910

Bicycle hire • Plaza Mitre, San Luis near Brown; $4.00 per hour • Total Sports Mar del Plata, Rawson 10 @ 42\13853155-213853; bus no. 221 and 581; $10.00 for 3 hrs.

159

Mar del Plata

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48 46

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Plaza Colón

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FALUCHO 73

67

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66

LAS HERAS

69

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SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO

AVE . COLÓN

To Miramar

56

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ALMTE . BROWN

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58 51

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B.MITRE

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38

71

76 79 81 75 74

78 77

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85 87

M A R D EL P LATA CE NT RO

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86

ALBERTI

• • •

T Trains

Ferrobaires station (Estación Norte) is on Avenida Luro 4599 near Chaco @ 4756076. The trains depart in Buenos Aires from Constitución station Buenos Aires–Mar del Plata Trains take between 4 and 5 hrs. • Bonaerense; 1 daily • El Marplatense; 2 weekly January/February. • Cruz del Sur; 1 daily • Alfonsina Storni; 1daily • Stella Maris: 1 daily

Ciudad de Mar del Plata; 1 daily Tren 4301; 1 daily Tren 4302; 1 daily

U Motoring Car rentals • Avis, Bulevar Marítimo 2451 @ 4937850 • Localiza, Salta 2545 @ 4913623 • A1 Rent a Car, Ave. Colón 2450 (A.C.A.) @ 4910091 • Dollar, Córdoba 2270

R Air services from Mar del Plata

Aeropuerto Camet is on RN 2, 7 km from the city center. Airlines • Aerolíneas Argentinas, Moreno 2442 • Aerolíneas Argentinas/Austral Líneas Aéreas, Rambla Hotel Provincial, Local 1–3 @ 4958725 • Dinar Líneas Aéreas, San Martín 2574 local 36 • Lapa, Córdoba 1621 @ 4922112/13/14 Services • Buenos Aires (1 hour ); 6 daily 08:45–22:20; AU, AR • Patagonian destinations: L.A.D.E. — see L.A.D.E. Section of Air services from Buenos Aires City on page 66.

Mar del Plata

160

BUENOS AIRES Key to map E

Telefónica Argentina

3 Accommodation 3 5 7 8 11 12 13 14 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 31 32 37 40 42 43 45 46 47 50 51

Hotel del Paseo Hotel Mar Azul Hotel Vison Hotel Delfín Hotel Compostela Hotel Miglierina Hotel Vaness and Hotel Montreal Hotel Argentino and Hotel Frandor’s Hotel Gran Dorá Hotel Carlos V Hotel Gran Continental Hotel Gran República Hotel Gran Tronador and Hotel Punta del Este Hotel Andes Hotel Napoleón and Hotel Gran Ducal Hotel San Remo and Hotel Dallas Centre Hotel Catedral and Hotel Garden Hotel Roland Hotel Select Hotel Ramos Mejía, Hotel Arcos and Hotel Po Hotel Center Hotel Flamingo Hotel Aragón Hotel Gran Hotel Provincial Hotel Tirol Hotel Minerva Hotel Ortegal Hotel Luso Argentino Hotel Estocolmo Hotel Astro Hotel Casablanca Hotel Nuevo Ranglani

52 53 54 56 57 59 60 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 70 71 73 74 75 76 77 79 80 81 82 83 85 86 87

Hotel Cervantes Hotel Gran Mónaco Hotel Rutibell Hotel América and Hotel Augusto Hotel Marbella Hotel Dos Reyes Hotel Gran Hermitage Hotel Castelmar Hotel L’Eté Hotel La Salle and Hotel Lebet Hotel Neptuno Hotel Repetto Hotel Waldorf Hotel Alto Valle Hotel Selent Hotel Nuevo San Marcos Hotel Condesa del Mar Hotel Elisabeth Hotel Piemonte and Hotel Cosmos Hotel Gran Opera Hotel Denver Hotel San Carlos Hotel Ibiza Hotel Ca D’Oro and Hotel Salliquelo Hotel Benedetti Hotel Chila Hotel Park Hotel Nuevo Horizonte Hotel Czerwiak

4 Eating out 1 6

Pizzería Guni Restaurant Ambos Mundos 10 Restaurant Caballito Blanco 15 Restaurant Tonne 16 Restaurant El Brasero

Service stations • A.C.A. Alvarado 2437 @ 4723000 • A.C.A. Ave. Colón 2450

•

# Water transport

Several tour boats make short excursions. These are located in the port area some 5 km south from the town center. • Yate Fiesta Crucero Anamora, Puerto de Mar del Plata Dársena B @ 4890310 • Yate Fortuna, Yate Fortuna II, Victoria, Anabela and Yate Ciudad de Nápoles depart from Banquina de los Pescadores (Fishermen’s dock side) in the Puerto de Mar del Plata @ 4801648. Fishing cruises start at

•

30 Restaurant Cantina Gruta de Capri 38 Restaurant Centro de Castilla y León 39 Restaurant El Nuevo Cardón and Restaurant Cari-Lauquen 41 Restaurant Tía Teresa 48 Restaurant La Paella 49 Restaurant El Rey del Bife 72 Cafetería Ficus 78 Restaurant Rincón Andaluz 84 Restaurant El Fogón

5 Entertainment 4 9 35 58

Chat Bar Cine Plaza Casino Hotel Provincial Tanguería Caribbean

6 Airline offices

44 Aerolíneas Argentinas

7 Tour operators and car rental 55 A1 Rent a Car 61 Dollar Rent a Car

L Financial

2 Cambios La Moneta 33 Cambio Mar del Plata 69 Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires

B Tourist information

34 Ente Municipal de Turismo 36 Secretaría de Turismo de la Nación

07:00, returning after 13:00. Price: $45.00–$60.00 per person Paseos Marítimas y Pesca Deportiva Embarcada has Yate Bahía, departures are from Centro Naval, Espigón B @ 4515037 Embarcación Von Clarland, Centro Naval Yacht Club @ 4861813

a Sport

Many sporting events are held in Mar del Plata. The Estadio Mundialista built in 1978 holds 50 000 spectators. • Cycling: Club Alvarado, Rodríguez Peña 4984 @ 4721611. • Diving: AMBA, Gascón 3266 @ 444326 161

Mar del Plata

PAMPA PROVINCES To Mar Chiquita

Pla

ya

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is t ol

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38

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ARENALES

$

15

TUCUMÁN

AVENIDA COLÓN 7

To Miramar

BELGRANO

57

GARAY 63 58

59

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62 61

CASTELLI 65 64

67 66 68

ALVARADO 69

71

72

70

AVELLANEDA 74 73

SAN LORENZO 75

•

Sailing and nautical clubs Regatta San Fernando–Mar del Plata is held in February. • Anamora Yate Fiesta has a capacity of 300 passengers. It departs weekends and holidays from Dársena B, Muelle de Guardacostas. departures are 11:30 and 16:00, Cost: $10.00 per person. Public buses no 511, 552 and 593 from the town center • Club Motonáutica Mar del Plata, Martínez de Hoz, Dársena F @ 4800774. Restaurant • Club Náutico Mar del Plata, Espigón C Bulevar Marítimo @ 4800797. Restaurant • Yacht Club Argentino: Espigón 4 Playa Grande @ 4511287

Polo: Mar del Plata Polo Club, Beruti 5819 @ 4771453; in Parque Camet 8 km to the north of the city center. Copa de Verano (Summer Cup) is held in January Golf clubs The open Golf Championships are held in January. The two golf clubs listed are among the most prestigious golf clubs in Argentina. • Club Mar del Plata S.A., Calle 24 near Calle 35 Los Acantilados @ (0223) 4642626 • Mar del Plata Golf Club, Aristóbulo del Valle 3940 @ (0223) 4511306/4518865

Mar del Plata

MAR DEL PLATA BUS TERMINAL

162

BUENOS AIRES Key to map T

Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 4 5 7 8 9 10 12 13 14 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 29 30 31 32 33 34 35

Hotel Provincial Hotel Hermitage Hotel Vip’s Hotel Neptuno Hotel Repetto Hotel Esmeralda Select and Hotel Norma Hotel Alicante Hotel Imperio Hotel Sirenuse Hotel Selent Hotel Nuevo San Marcos Hotel Ibiza Hotel Ambar Hotel Fama and Hotel Nelimar Hotel Ondina Hotel Alsina Hotel Calash Hotel Cecil Hotel Vial Center Hotel Gran Opera Hotel Denver Hotel San Carlos Hotel Ca D’Oro and Hotel Salliquelo Hotel Romero Hotel Canciller Hotel Don Quijote Hotel Lores and Hotel Apa Hotel Venus

36 37 38 39 40 41 43 44 45 46 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68

Hotel Dante Hotel Gaston Hotel Park Hotel Carla Hotel Nuevo Horizonte Hotel Czerwiak Hotel Nuevo Embajador Hotel Mar Hotel Tiber Hotel Roberts Hotel Bahía Blanca Hotel Moli-Mar Hotel Riazor and Hotel Cadi Palace Hotel Atlas Hotel Pergamino Hotel Europa Hotel Pilmayquen Hotel Sol and Hotel Lyon Hotel Francis Hotel Lagos Argentinos Hotel Harrington Hotel Las Heras Hotel Diva Hotel Impala Hotel Petit Maris Hotel Santos Hotel Tony Hotel Christian and Hotel El Cortijo Hotel Italia Hotel Corcel, Hotel Mediterráneo and Hotel Trevi Hotel La Madrileña

•

Tennis: Club River Plate, Avenida Juan B. Justo 5785 • Horse racing: Club Hípico Mar del Plata, Parque Camet @ 4739703 Pleasure flights • Aero Club Mar del Plata RP 88 KM 9 @ 4642151. Reached by buses no 715/720. Cessna 152 and PA11 and PA38. Minimum: 3 persons $42.00 each • R.A.S., Aeropuerto RP 2 KM 386 @ 4515117. Piper Aztec and Cessna 152. $99.00 per hour. Half-hour over Mar del Plata and half-hour flights over Sierra de los Padres cost $40.00 per person Sport in Chapadmalal • Golf: Marayui Country Club, Playa Chapadmalal RP 1 KM 11 @ (02291) 421028. It also has accommodation, restaurant, swimming pool, and conference rooms.

69 70 71 72 73 74

Hotel Pedro I Hotel Mallorca Hotel Danubio Hotel Eiffel Hotel Hierco Mar Hotel Adel

4 Eating out

11 Restaurant Venus 28 Restaurant Rincón Andaluz 42 Restaurant Hilton and Restaurant El Dragón Dorado 47 Restaurant Stella Maris 75 Pizzería Mí Casa

5 Entertainment 2

Casino

L Financial

15 Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires

9 Sights 6

Museo Municipal de Arte “Juan Carlos Castagnino

B Tourist Information 1 3

Ente Municipal de Turismo Secretaría de Turismo de la Nación

Sport in Sierra de los Padres • Golf: Sierra de los Padres Golf Club, RN 226 west, the turnoff is south at KM 22. @ (0223) 4630062; 18 holes

p Sightseeing

•

•

163

Museo Municipal de Ciencias Naturales “Lorenzo Scaglia” (Lorenzo Scaglia Municipal Natural Science Museum), Avenida Libertad 2999. Has exhibits of fossils from the tertiary and quaternary periods, and an aquarium. There is also a geological and archeological section. Temporarily closed, but check Museo Tradicionalista Argentino “José Hernández” (José Hernández Traditional Museum), RP 226 KM14.5. Located in the original buildings of the former estancia Laguna de los Padres. It has sections on the gaucho life, the settlers period and a section on the presence of man

Mar del Plata

PAMPA PROVINCES S Buses from Mar del Plata

The bus terminal is on Alberti 1602 near Sarmiento @ 4515405. There are almost hourly bus services to Buenos Aires and the other coastal resorts like Miramar, Necochea, and Villa Gesell. Bus companies • Andesmar ° Mendoza (22 hrs) via Necochea, Coronel Suárez, General Pico (11 hrs) Vicuña Mackena and San Luis • Antón • Autotransportes San Juan • Costera Criolla • El Cóndor, local 49 @ 4514855 • El Pampa S.A. ° Carhué ( 10 hrs); 1 daily • El Rápido Argentino @ 4510600 ° Bahía Blanca via Necochea, Tres Arroyos, Coronel Dorrego, and Punta Alta • Empresa Argentina @ 4510666 • Empresa Córdoba–Mar del Plata • Expreso Jocolí @ 4862212 Long-distance services • • • • • •

Destination Fare Bahía Blanca $27.00 Bariloche $83.00 Buenos Aires $25.00 Comodoro Rivadavia Córdoba $49.50 La Plata $18.00

Services 5 daily

• • • • • • •

Luján Mendoza Neuquén Paraná Resistencia Río Gallegos Rosario

5 daily 2 daily

• • • • • • • •

Salta $85.00 San Clemente del Tuyú San Juan $62.00 San Luis $56.00 San Rafael Santa Fe $47.00 Santa Rosa Santiago del Estero $52.00 Tandil Termas de Río Hondo $ 54.00 Trelew $72.00 Tucumán $82.50 Viedma

• • • • •

Mar del Plata

$30.00 $56.00

$125.00

1 daily 4 daily 1 daily 4 daily 1 daily 2 daily 1 daily

Company El Pampa El Rápido Argentino El Rápido Argentino, T.A.C., Transportadora Patagónica Córdoba Mar–del Plata, Costera Criolla, El Rápido Argentino Empresa Argentina Andesmar, Jocolí, T.A.C. El Valle Costera Criolla Ciudad de Posadas 31 hrs T.A.C. Costera Criolla, Empresa Argentina, 29 hrs La Veloz del Norte El Rápido, Costamar Autotransportes San Juan Autotransportes San Juan, Jocolí T.A.C. 13 hrs Micro Ejecutivo, Zenit Turismo El Rápido

1 daily 10 daily

23 hrs La Estrella, Empresa Argentina El Rápido, Río Paraná

1 daily 2 weekly 1 daily

24 hrs La Estrella Transportes Patagónicos 26 hrs La Estrella, Empresa Argentina Transportadora Patagónica

12 daily 1 daily 3 daily 8 daily

Duration 7 hrs 19 hrs 7 hrs 20 hrs 15 hrs 5 hrs

1 daily 2 weekly 1 daily 5 daily

164

L .N. ALEM

Hotel Las Rocas Hotel Los Angeles Hotel Zárate Hotel San Marco Hotel Stella Maris Hotel Marysol Hotel Marino Hotel Austral Hotel Club del Golf Hotel Sheraton

B. DE IRIGOYEN

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C. S PELLEGRINI

3 Accommodation

Ca bo Corrientes

FALUCHO GASCÓN

1 ALBERTI

2 RAWSON

GARAY

Restaurant Bernardo Bikini Bar Pizzería Tijuana Restaurant El Boticario and Restaurant La Marca

ARISTÓBULO DEL VALLE

4 Eating out 10 11 12 13

Mar Argen tino

GENERAL PAZ

Key to map

GENERAL URQUIZA

BUENOS AIRES

CASTELLI

ALVARADO

AVELLANEDA

9 Entertainment

SAN LORENZO

14 Mar del Plata Golf Club

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in the area; some archeological objects are 10 000 years old. Open November–March daily 15:00–19:00; April–October Thurs–Sun 14:00– 18:00 Other museums: Museo y Archivo Histórico Municipal, Lamadrid 3870 Villa Emilio Mitre; Museo Municipal de Arte “Juan Carlos Castagnino”, Avenida Colón 1189 Villa Ortiz; Museo del Hombre del Puerto ”Cleto Ciocchini", Padre Dutto 383 Galería de Arte Torreón, Paseo J. de Galíndez Galería de Arte Lautrec, Bulevar Marítimo 2500 Catedral de San Pedro, San Martín block 2700, corner of San Luis

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ALMAFUERTE Parque Pri mavesi

Golf c ourse Cemetery

AVE. J.J. PASO

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s Excursions

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Tour operators • Chamorro Viajes, San Martín 2627 3rd floor @ 4959640 • Dynamic Viajes, San Martín 2471 3rd floor @ 4958558 • Oti International, San Luis 1632 2nd floor @ 4945414 Excursions • Mar del Plata Aquarium, Avenida Martínez de Hoz 5600 @ 4670700 at Punta Mogotes can be reached by buses 211/511/581 from down town. It has performing seals, water-skiing on a lake; also restaurants and

•

165

14 Puerto de Mar del Plata

M A R D EL P LATA PUER TO

children’s play grounds. Open daily 09:30–19:00; January, February and March open till midnight. Day ticket is $17.00 Faro Punta Mogotes, a 35m high lighthouse, is located on the Costanera leading south to Miramar Laguna de los Padres: The lake is located in the Sierra de los Padres, a low hill district some 22 km west of town on the road to Balcarce. It is surrounded by acres of forests and is stocked with fish. On the west side is the historic site of Nuestra Señora del Pilar. The church was founded by five Jesuit priests in 1746 to re-settle the nomadic tribes in the area but this social experiment was short-lived; by 1752 it was abandoned due to

Mar del Plata

PAMPA PROVINCES constant attacks by the local tribes under the leadership of cacique Cangapol. The five priests collected valuable data on the tribes’ customs and language. The church is a rebuilding of the original. On the south side of the lake is a nature reserve to protect the local birdlife and aquatic flora. The waterbirds consist of white herons, small herons, kingfishers, macaws, black necked swans to name a few plus a variety of native birds. In the forested areas are parrots, ring

•

doves, eagles, hummingbirds, and woodpeckers. Nearby is the Sierra de los Padres Golf Club set at the highest points of the range with narrow greens in woodland. Another attraction is the many good restaurants a n d c o n f i t e r í a s: N a m u n c u r á , Sefferino’s Ranch, Los Peñascos. Buses Peralta Ramos/Línea 717 runs buses every half hour to and from Mar del Plata Balcarce, 69 km west on RN 226: see Balcarce on page 117

MAR DEL SUR

Mar del Sur Population: 900 Postal code: 7607 @ area code: (02291) Distance from Buenos Aires: 467 km south on RN 2

M

ar del Sur, just 20 km south of Miramar, is a quiet summer resort with clean beaches for those who seek tranquillity rather than excitement. There are several hotels. Fishing is good at El Remanso and Rocas Negras. The wide beaches stretch for 38 km south as far as Centinela del Mar and consist of dunes in their natural state. •

Local buses from Miramar provide transport.

• • •

B Tourist information •

Información Turística, Avenida 100 near 23 @ 491091

I Post and telegraph

C Accommodation • • • •

•

Hotel Alé Alé, Calle 98 between 15 and 17 @ 491097 $G 2 Hospedaje Villa del Mar, Avenida 100 near Avenida Costanera Hospedaje Mar Azul, Calle 100 between 11 and 13 @ 491082 $G/H 2 Hostería Mar del Sur, Calle 98 near 15 @ 491006 $H 2

Post office: Correo, Calle 27 near 106

Y Shopping

There is a Fería de Artesanos on Avenida 100 near 13.

a Sport

•

E Eating out

Yacht club: Club Náutico, Avenida Costanera near 100 @ 491134

s Excursions

Meals cost from $Y.

Excursions • Cascada La Ballenera: 7 km north towards Miramar. Arroyo La Ballenera about 1 km from its mouth, forms a 2.5 m waterfall

Restaurants • Candilejas, Avenida 100 near 13 • Club Rocas Negras, Calle 17 near 18 • Cocoloco, Avenida 100 near Avenida Costanera • El Chino, Calle 106 Mar del Sur

Makarsca, Calle 13 between Avenida 100 and 102. Croatian cuisine Pelus, Avenida 100 between 11 and 13 Puerto Sur, Calle 13 near 86 Ricardito, Avenida 100 between 17 and 19

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BUENOS AIRES •

Médano Grande is a large dune not far from Cascada La Ballenera which is still shifting. From its top vistas

over the sea, Miramar, and Mar del Sur

MAR DEL TUYÚ

Mar del Tuyú Postal code: 7108 @ area code: (02246) Distance from Mar del Plata: 213 km north on RP 11

M

ar del Tuyú is one of the newer seaside resorts which have sprung up in this area. The beach extends for miles in both directions. The tourist season runs from mid-December to mid-March. Outside these months Mar del Tuyú is quiet, and much of the accommodation and other services close down. The streets have no names, but bear numbers instead.

D Camping

Also included here is the small beach resort of Costa del Este, some 2 km south. It has hotels, restaurants and is much quieter. Facilities are included under those for Mar del Tuyú.

Charges are $I 4 per camping/trailer spot. • Camping El Refugio, Calle 94 near 2; 60 spots • Camping Mar del Tuyú, Calle 94 near 13; 60 spots • Camping Stella Maris, Calle 3 between 56 and 57 @ 420486; 160 spots

A Festivals •

Stella Maris, patron saint: February

E Eating out

B Tourist information •

Meals cost from $8.00 Restaurants • El Golpe, Calle 2 between 72 and 73 • Español, Calle 3 between 57 and 58 • Gol, Calle 3 near 57 • La Riojana, Calle 1 near 74 • Rocío, Calle 58 near 2 • Zuiz, Calle 1 near 74 Cafeterías • El Colonial, Calle 73 between 1 and 2 • Pepe’s, Calle 79 near 1 • Playa Verde, Calle 73 between 1 and 2 • Pueblo Bar, Calle 2 between 75 and 76

Secretaría de Turismo, Avenida Costanera 8001 (Town hall) @ 420387 fax 420296 ext. 40/49

C Accommodation

Hotel Santa Rosa, Avenida Costanera near 68 AELPV @ 420475 $H 1 • Hostería Campamento Turístico, Calle 76–140 $I 1 A Hospedaje Romero, Calle 58 near 2 LP $I 1 B Hospedaje del Muelle, Calle 76–162 $I 1 B Hostería Playa Verde, Calle 73–149 @ 420049 $I 1 Accommodation in Costa del Este • Apart Hotel Terrazas al Mar, Las Amapolas near 2 @ 423117 • Apart Hotel Lomas del Pinar, Avenida Interbalnearia between 4 and 5 @ 430544 • Apart Hotel Playa Palace, Costanera between 6 and 7 @ (02246) 420292 *

Eating out in Costa del Este • Heladería Sol del Este, Costanera 309 • Restaurant Bernadito, Costanera between 2 and 3

n Entertainment

• •

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Disco The Block, Calle 2 near 72 Disco Chango, Calle 74 between 2 and 3

Mar del Tuyú

PAMPA PROVINCES I Post and telegraph •

Francisco de las Carreras near Libertador San Martín. • Buenos Aires (5 hrs); 4 daily

Post office: Correo Argentino, Calle 2–7443 Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Calle 73–149 (between Calle 1 and Calle 2)

•

p Sightseeing

•

S Buses

•

Bus companies for buses to Buenos Aires, La Plata, and Mar del Plata are located on

Estatua de Cristo. A six metre tall statue of Christ made of Carrara marble Museo de Numismatica, Calle 4–6337

MIRAMAR

Miramar Population: 20 000 Postal code: 7607 @ area code: (02291) Distances From Buenos Aires: 450 km south on RN 2 • From Mar del Plata: 45 km south on RP 11 • From Necochea 102 km east on RP 88 then south-east on RN 77 •

M

iramar is a major seaside vacation resort with good tourist facilities and lovely beaches. It was founded in 1888. The town is laid out in the familiar chess-board fashion and the streets are numbered as in La Plata. Although

Key to map A C D E H I $ T

Iglesia Parroquial San Andrés Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica de Argentina Hospital Municipal EGATUR Tourist information Banco de la Provincia Bus terminals

3 Accommodation 3 5 6 9 16 17 19 20 22 23 24 25 28 29 30 31

Hospedaje Familia Hostería Platamar Hospedaje Costa Azul Hospedaje Méndez Hospedaje La Ramie Hotel Ardillita Hospedaje Las Brusquitas Hotel Turingia Hotel Embassy Hostería Lely Hotel Santa Eulalia I Hostería Cristal Hotel Nuevo Luxor Hotel América Hotel Arenas Hostería Riviera

Miramar

32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 52 53 54 55 56 58 59

Hotel Carolina Hospedaje Filadelfia Hostería Santa Rita Hospedaje San Miguel Hotel Castilla Hospedaje Select Hotel Domani Hotel Las Cibeles Hotel Miramar Hospedaje Ocean Hospedaje Arostegui Hotel San Francisco Hotel San Ignacio Hotel El Logroñes Hotel Gran Rex Hotel San Sebastián Hotel Palace Hotel Montecarlo Hostería Touring Hotel Castelar Hotel Ideal Hotel España Hotel Gran Hotel Hispania

4 Eating out 2 8

Restaurant Lisboa Restaurant El Águila

168

14 Cafetería Mi Refugio 18 Restaurant Círcolo Italiano 27 Restaurant Mav 42 Restaurant Calahorra 50 Restaurant Costa Brava

5 Entertainment 11 12 21 57

Miramar Squash Cine Atlántico Casino Miramar Anfiteatro

7 Tour operators and rent a car 15 Panda Viajes 51 Avis Rent a Car

0 Services 1 4 7 10 13

Railroad station Credicorp Farmacia del Pueblo Banco de la Nación Taller de Cerámica Artística 26 Paseo del Artesano

BUENOS AIRES prices rise during the summer months it is still cheaper than other seaside resorts. Paseo Costanero is a wide Avenida with the beach on one side and high-rise apartment blocks and hotels on the other. The beach front is set against a backdrop of cliffs. 77

1

To Mar del Sur

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30 PRES. GRAL. JOSE F. URIBURU 14

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Playa Miramar

169

Miramar

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Miramar Hotels *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

América, Diagonal B Mitre 1114 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Hotel Gran, Calle 29–586 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Palace, Calle 23–774 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Ardillita, Calle 28–671 AEFGJLPSUV Carolina, Calle 11–1114 AEFGJLPSUV Castelar, Calle 12–1331 AEFGJLPSUV Continental, Calle 19–1168 AEFGJLPSUV Domani, Calle 9–1034 AEFGJLPSUV Gran Rex, Calle 23–805 AEFGJLPUV Lu-Gra, Diagonal Cincuentenario (Illia) 856 AEFGJLPUV Montecarlo, Calle 16–1050 AEFGJLPUV Nuevo Luxor, Calle 23–1126 AEFGJLPUV Santa Eulalia I, Calle 26–851 AEFGJLPSUV Turingia, Calle 28–1060 AEFGJLPUV Arenas, Calle 24–1110 AELPV Castilla, Calle 21–1032 AELPV Costanera, Costanera 1771 AELPV Cris–Car, Calle 17–1434 AELPV El Logroñes, Calle 25–863 AELPV Embassy, Calle 26–913 AELPV España, Calle 14–1046 AELPV Evans, Calle 19–1353 AELPV Hispania, Calle 12–1482 AELPV Ideal, Calle 21–632 AELPV Las Cibeles, Calle 18–1155 AELPV Miramar, Calle 21–974 AELPV San Francisco, Calle 9–922 AELPV San Ignacio, Calle 16–1329 AELPV San Sebastián, Calle 29–745 AELPV Santa Eulalia II, Calle 15 near Calle 20 AELPV

Hosterías ** * * * * *

Lely, Calle 26 881 Cristal, Calle 26 743 Platamar, Calle 36–926 Riviera, Calle 22–853 Santa Rita, Calle 25–1051 Touring, Calle 27–669

Hospedaje A A A A A B B B B B B B B

Filadelfia, Calle 9–1185 La Ramie, Calle 28–783 Las Brusquitas, Calle 26–1431 Maricel, Calle 19–1405 Méndez, Calle 23–1507 Arostegui, Calle 18–933 Cervantes, Calle 30–907 Colonial, Calle 19–1165 Costa Azul, Calle 21–1684 Familia, Calle 23–1701 Ocean, 9 de Julio 967 San Miguel, Calle 22–1146 Select, Calle 23–1031

Miramar

AEFGJLPUV AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV LP LP LP LP LP

170

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

420847 420358 420258 420024 420925 420796 420895 420978 420942

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

420547 420469 421811 420808 420526 420837 420938 420662 420232 420932 420788 420368 420168 420217 420269 420489 421617 421481 420254 420471 420091

@ @ @ @

420134 420118 421186/88 421173

@

420898

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420444 420641

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420365

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420671 420783 420894 420310

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BUENOS AIRES Accommodation in Miramar — continued @

B Victoria, Calle 26–1150 B Villa Cruz, Calle 19–864

420603

$J $J

1 1

Accommodation in Las Brusquitas RN 11 **

Motel Copacabana,

AEFGJLPUV

B Tourist information •

n Entertainment

EGATUR, Avenida 28 near 21 @ 420190 fax 420751

During the summer holidays local music groups give free concerts/performances in the amphitheater located in the park land on the north side of Arroyo Las Brusquitas. • Casino Miramar, Calle 21 between 26 and 28. Open daily 21:00–03:00. Twelve roulette tables, poker machinese. Also a bar and confitería, dancing nightly • Cine Gran Rex, Calle 2 between 18 and 20 • Cine Atlántico, Calle 21 between 30 and 32 • Disco Aramaçao, Avenida Costanera near 37 • Disco Boy Cott, Avenida Costanera between 35 and 37 • Disco In Touch, Avenida Costanera near 35 • Disco Opus, Avenida 9 near Calle 24 • Disco Prahia, Avenida 9 between 22 and 24 • Bar/Restaurant Jet-Set, Avenida Costanera 1629. Dancing

D Camping

Charges: $J 1 per day Camping El Durazno, RP 11 KM 4 • @ 420343/423651. Restaurant

E Eating out

& & & &

&

Restaurants • Calahorra, Calle 20–1020. Vegetarian cuisine • Círcolo Italiano, Avenida 9–1485 near Calle 28. Italian cuisine • Costa Brava, Avenida 23–799 • El Aguila, Calle 19–1629 near 32 • El Fogón, Calle 19–1181 • El Muelle, Avenida Costanera near 37 • Jockey Club, Calle 21–1301 near Avenida 26 • La Cautiva, Calle 19 near Calle 24 • La Costa, Avenida 9 and Calle 12 • Lisboa, Avenida 40–830 • Mavi, Avenida 9–1232 • Punto y Banca, Diagonal Fortunato de la Plaza 1426 Pizzerías • Astral, Calle 21 near Avenida 26 Galería Casino • Pizzilandia, Calle 21 near Calle 14

I Post and telegraph

• •

Cafeterías • Charly, 9 de Julio and Calle 18 • Las Gaviotas, 9 de Julio near Calle 22 • Mi Refugio, 9 de Julio 1439 near Calle 28 • Petit Café, Avenida Costanera near Calle 21 • Sitges, 9 de Julio near Calle 22 • Tabac, 9 de Julio near Calle 26 • Talamanca, 9 de Julio and Calle 20 • Via Veneto, 9 de Julio near Diagonal Fortunato de la Plaza

Post office: Correo, Calle 17 near Calle 32 Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, Diagonal Fortunato de La Plaza 1451

L Financial

• • •

Cambio Casa Fortuna, Calle 21 between 24 and 26 Ibertur, Calle 21 between 18 and 20 Banco de la Provincia, Calle 21–1209 near Calle 24 @ 420829. ATM

M Services and facilities

• •

Pharmacy: Farmacia del Pueblo, Calle 21–1598 Hospital Municipal, Diagonal J.M.Dupuy

Bicycle hire • Avenida 23 near 24

171

Miramar

PAMPA PROVINCES S Buses from Miramar Bus terminals There are several private bus terminals, all within easy walking distance from each other. Bus terminal at Avenida Mitre (Avenida 23) near Avenida 34 @ 423359 • Compañía Argentina de Turismo C.A.T. ° Buenos Aires via Monte Grande, Remedios de Escalada, Bánfield, Lomas, Turdera, Temperley, Adrogué, and Lanús • El Rápido del Sur runs buses between Miramar and Mar del Plata and along the coast) • Expreso Mar del Sur ° Claromecó via Mar del Sur and Necochea Other companies departing from this terminal are: Micro Mar, Expreso Paraná, Liparotti, Unión del Sur, Expreso Córdoba–Mar del Plata, El Alba Bus terminal at Diagonal Fortunato de la Plaza 1598 near Avenida 19 @ 423645 • Costera Criolla, El Pampa Bus terminal at Diagonal Fortunato de la Plaza 1678 @ 420780 • El Cóndor Bus terminal at Avenida Mitre between 20 and 22 • El Serrano ° San Fernando via Mar del Plata, Ciudadela, San Martín, Vicente López, Olivos, and San Isidro. By-passes Buenos Aires on the outskirts Bus terminal on Fortunato de la Plaza between 15 and 17 Agencia Tomy @ 421338 • Andesmar ° Mendoza via General Pico, Realicó, General Alvear, San Rafael, and Tunuyán • Compañía Argentina de Turismo C.A.T., Pehuenche, Central Argentino, El Rápido, Unión del Sur, Turismo Parque • El Alba ° San Miguel del Monte via, Hurlingham, San Justo, and Lomas del Mirador • Rutamar Long-distance services • • • • •

Destination Bahía Blanca Bariloche Buenos Aires Córdoba La Plata

• • • •

Mar del Plata Necochea Neuquén Zapala

Fares $80.00 $30.00

Services 5 daily 10 daily 1 daily 5 daily 5 daily 1 daily 1 daily

Duration Company El Pampa El Rápido, Mercedes 8 hrs C.A.T., Micromar, Rutamar Expreso Mar del Plata–Córdoba El Rápido Argentino, La Puntual, Costera Criolla El Rápido del Sur, El Serrano Costera Criolla Unión del Sur, El Rápido Unión del Sur

U Motoring

T Trains

The F C General Roca station is on the corner of Avenida San Martín (Avenida 40) and Calle 13. There are no more trains but a daily automotor service connects with El Atlántico in Mar del Plata.

Car Rentals • Avis Rent a Car, Calle 21–710 Service stations • A.C.A., Diagonal Fortunato de la Plaza 1733

Miramar

172

BUENOS AIRES Y Shopping

p Sightseeing

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Avenida 26 between 21 and 23 is called Paseo del Artesano. Here local artists display and sell their work of arts made of leather, wood, metal and ceramics. • Taller de Cerámica Artística, Calle 23–1478. Guided tour through workshops

a Sport • •

• • • •

•

Boat hire: Club Náutico Miramar, Espigon 1 Golf: Golf Club Miramar, RP 11, corner of Calle 37 and Calle 20, 7 km north of the city center @ (02291) 421275 Horse riding: Caballeriza Don Olguín, Calle 16 near 47 Horse riding: Asociación Tradicionalista Gauchos del Sur, Avenida 40 near 57 Squash: Miramar Squash, Calle 30–1061 Tennis: ATC, Calle 22 between 45 and 47

Parque Dunícola Florentino Ameghino (Florentino Ameghino Dune Park), situated on Avenida 37. This partially forested 50 ha (124 acre) portion of land previously consisted solely of dunes. Now it almost looks like a natural forest, harboring many species of birds. It is popular with cyclists Museo Municipal General Alvarado (Municipal General Alvarado Museum), in the Vivero Dunícola Florentino Ameghino (Florentina Ameghino Dune Nursery). On display are early inhabitants’ stone tools, and fossilized bones of prehistoric animals found in the area

s Excursions Tour operators • Panda Viajes, Diagonal Fortunato de la Plaza 1452 @ 430517 • Reach out Tours, Calle 28 near 21 @ 421199; also car rental Excursions • Mar del Sur: 16 km south. See page 166 • Laguna La Ballena: Halfway between Miramar and Mar del Sud is a coastal lake of 36 ha (89 acre), a little less than 1 km from the beach

Fishing • Muelle de Pescadores Deportivos, a jetty for anglers on the corner of Avenida Costanera and Avenida 37 • Laguna La Ballenera, on the road to Mar del Sur. Fishing and boating

MONTE HERMOSO

Monte Hermoso Population: 3500 @ Area code: (0921) Distance from Buenos Aires: 632 km south on RN 3 and RP 78

M

onte Hermoso is the southernmost highly developed beach resort in Buenos Aires Province. The dunes have been planted extensively with pine trees. There are 32 km of quiet, unspoilt beaches and good facilities. The water is supposed to be warmer than the beaches further north due to a warm current coming down from Brazil. It attracts many campers. After the summer vacation it is fairly quiet.

A Festivals

The hub of town with most shops and cafés is in Avenida Faro Recalada.

• •

173

Triatlón de Monte Hermoso: January Las 24 horas de Monte Hermoso, fishing competition: January

Monte Hermoso

PAMPA PROVINCES To Bahía Blanca

RÍO TEUCO

CHACABUCO

CNEL DORREGO

RÍO PARANÁ

AVE. FARO RECALADA

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A C D E H I T $

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Iglesia Stella Maris Municipalidad Correo Argentino Cooperativa Telefónica Hospital Secretaría de Turismo Bus Terminal Banco de la Provincia Accommodation Eating out Entertainment Sights

Playa de Monte Hermoso

Mar Argentino

MONTE HERMOSO •

Wind-surfing competition in Laguna Sauce Grande: February

B Tourist information •

E Eating out

Secretaría de Turismo, Cultura y Deportes, Avenida Faro Recalada near Pedro de Mendoza @ 481123 fax 481047

Meals cost from $Y. Restaurants • Cabalito Blanco, Valle Encantado 91. Parrilla • Cervecería Alemana, Avenida Argentina 129 • Copo de Espuma, Valle Encantado 141. Parrilla • Cher, Int. Majluf 239. Parrilla

D Camping

Charges are $J per person. • Complejo Turístico Americano, Faro Recalada @ 481194. $H 4. Restaurant

Monte Hermoso

Autocamping Hipocampo, Avenida Dufour. Capacity: 80 tents. Restaurant

174

BUENOS AIRES C Accommodation in Monte Hermoso

The majority of hotels and other accommodation close in the off season. Hotels ** America, Valle Encantado 91 AEFGJLPUV ** Americano, Faro Recalada 341 AEFGJLPUV Right on the beach ** España, P de Mendoza near Avenida Argentina AEFGJLPUV ** Maga, Chascomús 335 AEFGJLPUV ** Savoy, Los Pinos 42 AEFGJLPUV * Ameghino, Valle Encantado 60 AELPV * Broca I formerly Barrio, Dufour and Neuquén * Caprí, Faro Recalada 599 AELPV * Cavismar, Avenida Presidente Perón AELPV * Santa Isabel, Bahía Blanca 55 AELPV

@

481005

$G

2

@

481007

$G

2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

481026 481128 481052 481098 481075 481229 481072 481030

$F $F $F $G $G $G $G $G

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

@ @

481142 481313

$E $H

2 2

@ @ @ @ @

481093 481713 481233 481207 481122

$G $G $G

2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @

481478 481478 481223 481003 481195

$I

1

Hosterías

***La Goleta, Avenida President Perón near Calle 10 ACDEFGJKLPSUVY ** Altea, Avenida Argentina 830 AEFGJLPUV * Florida, Bahía Blanca near Río Colorado AELPSV * Hermitage, Faro Recalada AELPV * Monte Hermoso, Faro Recalada 1097 AELPV * Otto Kundt, Faro Recalada 401 AEFLPV * Romanos, Avenida Argentina 342 AELPV

Hospedajes A A A A A

Ambar, Dufour 210 Costa Azul, Chacabuco 365 Mary-Car, Antonio Costa 58 Paco’s, Valle Encantado 59 Pecmar, Río Colorado 445

LP LP LP LP LP

•

n Entertainment

Danny, Pedro de Mendoza near Avenida Argentina. Parrilla • La Brochette, Dorrego near Paraná. Parrilla • La Estancia, Int. Majluf 733. Parrilla • La Rueda, Traful Bis near Los Pinos • Las Carabelas, Dufaur near Presidente Perón. Parrilla • Pizza Jet, Valle Encantado near Int. Majluf. Parrilla • San Gabriel, Valle Encantado 42. Parrilla Cafeterías, Bars • Margarita Pub, Avenida Faro Recalada near Dorrego • Phono Bar, Faro Recalada 150 • Via Appia, Dufaur 155

• • • • •

Casino, Avenida Pedro de Mendoza near Río Teuco. Open from 1 November–30 April. 10 roulette tables Disco Aranjuez, Dorrego 256 near Avenida Faro Encalada and Paraná Disco Gitanes, Neuquén 54 Disco Stand Up, Valle Encantado near Las Dunas Cine Atlántida, Los Pinos 48

I Post and telegraph

• •

Post office: Valle Encantado 55 Telephone: Cooperativa Telefónica, Pedro de Mendoza 268

L Financial

• •

175

Cambio Coronel Dorrego, Avenida Dufaur near Las Dunas Banco de la Provincia, Paraná 43

Monte Hermoso

PAMPA PROVINCES •

S Buses

The bus terminal is in Faro Recalada near Pedro de Mendoza. • La Estrella–El Cóndor runs 1–2 services daily to Buenos Aires (9 hrs) • Andesmar @ 481089 runs 1 service weekly to Mendoza (201 2 hrs), • TICSA, La Acción @ 481188 runs daily services to Bahía Blanca, less frequently in winter • El Zorzal to Santa Rosa in La Pampa Province

•

•

p Sightseeing

Museo Municipal de Ciencias Naturales, Avenida Costanera between Patagonia and Avenida Dufaur.

s Excursions •

•

L a g u n a S a u c e G r a n d e : 10 km north-east. Water sports, good pejerrey fishing, swimming and sailing; on the peninsula are barbecue areas; there is also an hostería Faro Recalada (Recalada Lighthouse), with a beam reaching a distance of 30 km

Extensive dune formations east of town which extend for 3 km inland. Most of them are still shifting. In some of the dune valleys there are pockets of water which are covered with reeds and attract wildlife El Pisadero. This is an archeological site with remains dating back 7000 year. Tours are organized by the Museo Municipal de Ciencias Naturales Estancia La Sirena, RN 3 KM 25: The main building was built in 1906. The estancia covers an area of 25 000 ha (61 776 acres). The immediate area around the Residencial building is lush and green: vines, palms and eucalyptus trees. For guests there are 9 rooms to let. The owners also have a small museum which consists of small arms and memorabilia of General Roca

NECOCHEA

Necochea • From Buenos Aires: 500 km south on RN 3 then RN 86 • From Bahía Blanca: 336 km north-east on RN 223 then RN 228

N

ecochea is located on the coast on a 72 km beach. For 24 km this beach comes under the city’s direct jurisdiction, before it continues northward across the river into Necochea’s sister city Quequén. Founded in 1881, Necochea had a troubled early history, and Indian raids led by Chief Calfucura delayed its advance considerably. Over the last 20 years or so it has attracted a steadily-growing number of tourists, and now over 100 000 vacationers visit Necochea each summer. It is probably the largest seaside resort after Mar del Plata. Necochea can be reached from Buenos Aires by road, rail, and air. It virtually closes during the

Necochea

off-season, but comes to life from December to early March. The city consists of two main parts: the civic center with its Municipalidad, and the beach front (Villa Díaz Vélez), where most of the tourist facilities are concentrated. The tourist complex with a casino, swimming pools, cafés, night club, and sports facilities is located here. Necochea has excellent hotels and restaurants, as well as many large parks and recreational areas. The

176

BUENOS AIRES To Juárez 228

N TÍ R A M N A S . IB .L VE A

NECOCHEA 3

UR

UG

U AY

58 AVE. D.F. SARMIENTO Dardo Rocha

9

a

N W RO

Qu

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T

én

AL

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NECOCHEA CENTRO

56 9 DE JULIO

54 RIVADAVIA

N 52 DORREGO To beach area

Key to map

nd e

ATLANTIC OCEAN

M

B E.

C E

10

To Mar del Pl ata

ec o

Río

ya N

Plaza

D

88 Pla

7 6

53 J.B. ALBERDI

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4

55 ROCA

TA L

60 B. MITRE

3

57 V. DE LA CANAL

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5

$

AVE. C. PELLEGRINI

REP . O R

62 BELGRANO

59 AVE. ALSINA

VE.

2

63 PAUNERO

10 A

64 BALCARCE

65 E.B. MORENO

22 AMADEO MUÑOZ

To Claromecó

228

61 A. MURGA

N

AVE . C. PELL EGRINI 59 AVE . FIGUEROA ALCORTA

58 AVE . D.F. SARMIENTO

To Bahía Blanca RAIL STATI ON

NECOCHEA 2

AVE . V. SARS FIELD

To Tres Arroyos

N E C OC H E A MET R O P OL I TA NA

A C D E $ T

hub of the beach front is the mall on Calle 83, which is lined with cafés and shops.

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica de Argentina Banco de la Provincia Bus terminal

3 Accommodation

Quequén

2 Hospedaje Colón 4 Hospedaje Solchaga 10 Hotel Acapulco

Only a few kilometers north across the Río Quequén Grande (which in spite of its name is rather small) is another beach resort, Quequén. Quequén has a population of 15 000; it is also a port city. Argentina’s first casino was established here and for a long time was the preferred seaside resort for the rich. Along the port are some old mansions. An excellent beach stretches north from Quequén for several kilometers. The harbor is silting up and requires frequent dredging. The facilities in Quequén are included under the appropriate headings in Necochea.

4 Eating out 7 8

Cafetería Mi Cantina Restaurant Centro Vasco

5 Entertainment 3 9

Cine París Centro Cultural

6 Airline offices 5

LAPA

0 Services 1 6

Ferrobaires train station Casa de Cambio Aloña

Arenas Verdes is located 19 km north of Necochea reached via RP 88; the turnoff is 12 km north. This is an isolated spot with small dunes which are covered with sparse grass, hence the name. On top of one of the small dunes is a Santuario to Santa Teresita. There is only a shop. The council has

Neighboring resorts Also included here are the fledgling seaside resorts of Arenas Verdes, San Cayetano and Costa Bonita.

177

Necochea

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Necochea Accommodation in the town center Hotels **

Acapulco, Calle 52–2950 Near railway station

Hospedajes

A Colón, Calle 62–3034 Near bus terminal A Solchaga, Calle 62–2822 Near bus terminal

AEFGJLPUV

LP ELP

@

423210

$H

2

@

424825

$J

1

@

425584

$H

2

Accommodation on the beach front Only a handful of hotels are open outside the tourist season. Hotels **** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * *

ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 436228 fax Atlántico, Calle 2–4022 @ 423303 Bahía, Avenida San Martín 731 ACDEFGJKLPTUVWY @ 423353 España, Calle 89–215 AEFGJLPSUV @ 422896 Infriccioli, Calle 4–4335 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVWY@ 425563 León, Calle 79–229 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: [email protected] @ 424800 fax Milesi, Calle 79–373 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 425387 Necochea, Calle 79–217 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail:[email protected] @ 433255 fax Perugia, Calle 81–288 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 422020 fax San Martín, Calle 6–4198 near 85 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 422042 San Miguel, Calle 85–301 near Calle 6 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: [email protected] @ 425155 fax Tres Reyes, Calle 4 bis 4123 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 422011 Argentino, Calle 87–293 near Calle 6 AEFGJLPSUV @ 423661 fax Celeste, Diagonal San Martín 696 AEFGJLPUV @ 425206 Compostela, Calle 75–374 AEFGJLPSUVW @ 423924 Continental, Avenida 10 near 85 AEFGJLPUVW @ 423394 Corona, Calle 75–371 AEFGJLPUV @ 422646 Derhua, Calle 79–821 AEFGJLPUV @ 421137 fax Emperador, Calle 6–4052 AEFGJLPSUV @ 422421 Esthor, Calle 87–383 AEFGJLPSUVW @ 425338 Horizonte, Calle 85–375 AEFGJLPUV @ 423344 Hostal del Rey, Calle 81–335 AELPVW @ 425170 Internacional, Calle 81–232 AEFGJLPSUV @ 424587 Marino, Calle 79–251 near Calle 4 AEFGJLPUV @ 422140 Mar y Cielo, Calle 8–4366 AEFGJLPSUV @ 423338 Miami, Calle 85–233 AEFGJLPSUV @ 423275 Santa Clara, Calle 8–4331 AELPV @ 423850/8 Sari Mar, Calle 8–4351 AEFGJLPUV @ 424381 Trocadero, Calle 81–279 AEFGJLPSUVW @ 422589 Almirante, Calle 85–236 AELPV @ 425151 Alvarez Palace, Calle 79–304 near Calle 6 AELPV @ 423667 Asturias, Diagonal San Martín 842 AELPV @ 424524 Avenida, Calle 79–386 AELPV Fax 426963 @ 423718 Bambi, Calle 83–323 AELPV @ 438480 Presidente, Calle 4–4040

Necochea

178

$F/G 2 $H/I $F $H

2 2 2

$F 2 $G/H 2 $F 2 $G/H 2 $G/H 2 $G/H $G $H $H $H $H $G $H $H $H $H $H $F $H/I $G $H $H/I $H/I $H $I

2 2 1 2 1 1 2 2 1 1 1 1 2 1 2 1 1 1 1 1

$I $I

1 1

$I $H

1 2

BUENOS AIRES Accommodation in Necochea — continued * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Bell Mar, Calle 79–364 AELPV Bibbione, Calle 89–376 AELPV Brisamar, Calle 83–336 AELPV Campomar, Calle 81–385 AELPV Ca-Ra-Ma, Calle 77–237 AELPV Castilla, Calle 4–3727 AELPV Doramar, Calle 83–329 AELPV Flamingo, Calle 83–333 AELPSV Gavin, Avenida San Martín 789 AELPV Gran Avenida, Avenida 10–4146 AELPV Hermitage, Calle 8–3825 AELPSV Italia, Calle 20–4050 AELPV Las Nieves, Diagonal San Martín 1096 AELPV Libertador, Calle 8–3850 AELPV Lido, Calle 81–328 AELPV Mar Azul, Calle 6–3762 AELPV María Paula, Calle 4–3927 AELPV Montecarlo, Calle 85–335 AELPV Monte Polino, Calle 6–3963 AELPV Neptuno, Calle 81–212 AELPV Plaza, Calle 85–277 AELPV Riviera, Calle 8–3935 AELPV Sandra, Diagonal San Martín 1115 AELPV Santander, Calle 83–877 AELPV Suizo, Calle 22–4235 AELPV Windsor, Calle 4–3957 AELPV Zure-Echea, Calle 79–355 AELPVW

Hosterías *** *** *** ** ** * *

Del Bosque, Calle 89–350 Posta Carretas, Calle 79 bis 369 E-mail: [email protected] Río Colorado, Calle 4–3855 Nuevo Casino, Calle 87–375 Ruca-Lauquen, Calle 8–4271 Las Olas, Calle 79–333 Nancy, Calle 75–368

ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY ACDEFGPTUVW AELPSV AELPV AELPV AELPSV

Hospedajes A A A A A

Bayo, Calle 87–388 LP City, Calle 81–237 LP Firenze, Calle 4–4356 LP Las Malvinas, Diagonal San Martín 1141 LP Necomar, Calle 20 near Calle 79 bis LP

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

423673 424678 424909 423915 425540 421004 425815 420049 427120 423390 423925 425660 431058 423918 fax 423508 425284 423903 425959 425928 422653 427295 425596 422584/5 427090 424008 423171 422167

$I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I

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@

420002

@ @ @ @ @ @

424499 425514 423846 426413 425197 424731

$G

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423334 423768 421114 424035 422689

$J $J $J $J $I

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Accommodation in Quequén *

Hotel Eclipse de Luna, Calle 512 near 519 AELPV

Accommodation in Costa Bonita *

Hostería Dunas, Avenida Costanera Tennis courts

AELPRV

179

@

(02262)421838

Necochea

PAMPA PROVINCES B Tourist information

installed free showers for the campers. For outdoor enthusiasts only. San Cayetano is located 40 km south of Necochea and is reached via RP 228. The turnoff is 25 km south. On the road is Laguna Salada; as the name implies it is a salt-water laguna, however pejerrey fishing is possible. Here in San Cayetano there are already some vacation houses and some serviced camping areas. Costa Bonita is located 10 km north of Quequén and can be reached on a coastal road which is sealed part of the way; this is the scenic route. On route you go past an old homestead which is now completely covered by sand. There is a small colony of vacation homes and an hostería with 24 rooms and a salt water swimming pool.

•

D Camping

Charges are $J per person. • Camping Parque Miguel Lillo, Avenida 2 near Calle 101 near Lago de los Cisnes(“Swan Lake”). Capacity: 350 tents; restaurant • Camping Puelches, Calle 111 near 32. Capacity 170 tents; restaurant. Open December–March • Camping Río Quequén, Calle 2 on the banks of the river also with cabins $G for 4 Camping in Quequén • Camping Doble J, Calle 502 near 529. Capacity 190 tents. Restaurant • Camping El Gringo, Calle 519–901. Capacity 50 tents. Restaurant Camping in San Cayetano Charges are $J per person. • Camping Municipal • Camping Club de Pesca y Caza La Boya

A Festivals • •

Virgen del Carmen: July 16 Fishermen’s week: February

Key to map I

Secretaría de Turismo de Necochea

3 Accommodation 1 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

10 11 12 13 14 15 18 19 20

Hotel Suizo Hotel Gran Avenida Hotel Santander Hotel Italia Hotel Mar y Cielo Hotel Libertador Hotel Bibbione Hotel Sari Mar and Hotel Santa Clara Hotel Esthor and Hostería Nuevo Casino Hospedaje Bayo Hostería Ruca-Lauquen Hotel Horizonte Hotel Montecarlo and Hotel San Miguel Hotel Bambi and Hotel Flamingo, Hotel Doramar Hotel Brisamar Hotel Emperador Hotel Campomar

Necochea

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 39 40 41 42 43

Secretaría de Turismo de Necochea, Avenida 2 near 79 @ 438333 fax 430158. Also at the bus terminal

Hotel Hostal del Rey Hotel Lido Hotel Riviera Hotel Milesi and Hostería Las Olas and Hotel Zure-Echea Hotel Bell Mar and Hotel Avenida Hotel Alvarez Palace Hotel Hermitage Hotel Mar Azul Hotel Corona Hotel Compostela and Hostería Nancy Hotel Argentino Hospedaje Firenze Hotel Plaza Hotel Miami Hotel Almirante Hotel Presidente Hospedaje City Hotel Trocadero Hotel Neptuno and Hotel Internacional Hotel Perugia

180

44 Hotel Monte Polino 45 Hotel Marino 46 Hotel León and Hotel Necochea 47 Hotel Real 48 Hotel Ca-Ra-Ma 51 Hotel Infriccioli 52 Hotel Windsor 53 Hotel María Paula 54 Hotel Castilla

4 Eating out 2 17 36 37 38

Restaurant La Fusta Restaurant La Reja Cafetería Mein Haus Restaurant La Rueda Cafetería Café del Paseo, Cafetería El Galeón 50 Restaurant Casino

5 Entertainment 16 Cine Ocean 49 Casino

BUENOS AIRES To Centro LLE AVA 24 L

22 A

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20 A

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URU RIB .F. U J 8 1

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10 AV. REPÚBLICA ORIENTAL DEL URUGUAY

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75 AVE. G. QUIROGA

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13 11

77 HORNOS

79 ABASOLO

8 A. FAGGIOLI 9 12

81 M. MORENO

83 A. BUTTI

85 GARCÍA LANDERO

87 USPALLATA

89 RICCHIERI

Parque Miguel Lillo

6

30

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17 14

22

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16 19

6 R.S. PEÑA

44 31

33

41 43

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34

4 J.M. ESTRADA 51

36 35 37

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53

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50 49 2 AVE. 25 DE MAYO

I

N

Playa de Necochea

NECOCHEA BEACHES

181

Necochea

PAMPA PROVINCES E Eating out

& &

&

&

The food specialty is calamari stuffed with salmon. Meals cost from $Z. Restaurants • Casino, Avenida 2 near 91 Parque Miguel Lillo • Centro Vasco, Calle 65–2601 • Club Huracán, Calle 58–3850 • Club Náutico, near Escollera Sur • Club Rivadavia, Calle 46–2955 • La Barra, Calle 4 between 83 and 85 • La Casona de Rocco, Calle 81 near 8 • La Fusta, Avenida 10–4270 between 85 and 87 • La Reja, Calle 83–334 • La Rueda, Calle 4–4144 • Mar y Cielo, Calle 8–4366 Pizzerías • Don Peppone, Avenida 79 near 8 • El Palacio de la Pizza, Avenida 59 between 62 and 64 Cafeterías • Café del Paseo, Calle 83–230 • El Galeón, Calle 83–262 • Mein Haus, Calle 4 bis–4123

& • Mi Cantina, Calle 57–2760 • Su Cantina, Calle 83–346 Eating out in Quequén Restaurants • El Quincho de Miguel, Almirante Brown near RP 88 • La Posada de la Bahía, Bahía de los Vientos • Los Tres Amigos, Almirante Brown near Martín García

n Entertainment

• • • • • •

Casino, in the tourist complex, Avenida 2 near Calle 89, next to Parque Miguel Lillo Cine París, Avenida 59–2874 Cine Ocean, Calle 83–320 Disco Casting Road, Calle 87 between Calle 4 and 6 Disco Facex, Calle 85 between Calle 6 and 8 Disco Yamo, Calle 85 between Calle 6 and 8

S Buses from Necochea

The bus terminal is on Calle 58 near Avenida Jesuita Cardiel, seven blocks from the city center @ 422470. It has clean rest rooms, a cloakroom, and a cafetería. Bus 502 takes about 20 minutes from the terminal to the beach; fare $0.80. Bus companies • Costera Criolla, @ 425553 • El Cóndor @ 425553 • El Rápido Argentino, Cordóba–Mar del Plata, Central Argentino • Empresa Río Paraná @ 434198 • Pampa S.A. Long-distance services

•

Destination Fare Azul $14.30 Bahía Blanca $16.70 Balcarce $6.60 Bariloche $73.00 Buenos Aires $25.00 Comodoro Rivadavia Córdoba La Plata

• • • • •

Mar del Plata Mendoza Miramar Tandil Viedma

• • • • • •

Necochea

$7.70 $9.70

Services

2 daily 10 daily 2 daily 1 daily 4 daily

Duration Company 4 hrs El Cóndor El Pampa 2 hrs El Rápido Argentino 12 hrs El Rápido Argentino 7 hrs Costera Criolla, El Cóndor 19 hrs Costera Criolla, Córdoba-Mar del Plata 7 hrs Costera Criolla, El Rápido Argentino, El Pampa 2 1 2 hrs El Pampa Andesmar Costera Criolla El Pampa, Río Paraná Transportadora Patagónica

182

BUENOS AIRES I Post and telegraph • •

best in the province. In the club house is a restaurant and confitería- cum-bar.

Post office: Correo Argentino, Avenida 58–3086 Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Calle 61–2432

p Sightseeing

•

L Financial • • •

•

Casa de Cambio Aloña, Avenida 59–2786 Casa de Cambio Diver, Avenida 69–3128 Banco de la Provincia, Calle 64–3000. ATM

s Excursions Tour operators Miles of beaches extend north and south from Necochea and Quequén, interrupted by rocky sea fronts where wind and water erosion have formed caves in the rocks. For those seeking quieter beaches go to Balneario Los Angeles, 30 km south of Necochea. • Tourquesse, Calle 57-2849 @ 423632 fax; e-mail:[email protected] Excursions • Faro de Quequén. Can be reached from the Avenida Marítima. Small admission fee. See excellent views over the town and beaches • Parque Provincial Dunícola Miguel Lillo (Miguel Lillo Provincial Dune Park): Past the tourist complex on Avenida 2 is an area of some 500 ha (1236 acres) which was once sand dunes but has now been planted with trees, mostly conifers. There is a camping spot and an amphitheater seating 8000 • Los Manantiales: 5 km upstream. Good camping spots and fishing • Río Quequén Grande: 13 km upstream small islands in the river force the water to form little waterfalls. An idyllic place. Both sides of the river are lined with trees. Fishing • Balneario Costa Bonita: 14 km north. A small beach resort in Quequén, less crowded than Necochea. Fishing. Take bus 515 from the corner of Avenida 2 and Calle 85, on the beach front; there are six services a day during summer • Fish hatchery: 12 km upstream on Río Quequén Grande, near Puente Ardanaz, the hatchery breeds arco iris trout and pejerrey. Opposite is Parque Cura-Meuco with kiosks serving hot meals • Las Grutas 7.5 km south of Necochea, Punta Negra 12 km south and Cueva

R Air services

The airport is located 12 km north on RP 86. LAPA , Calle 60–3128 @ 428517/426422 runs services to and from Aeroparque Jorge Newbery in Buenos Aires.

U Motoring • • •

Museo Regional Histórico y de Ciencias, Calle 56 Casona Parque Miguel Lillo. Centro Cultural, Calle 54–3062; art gallery

Service station: A.C.A., Avenida 59–2073 Car Rental: Acuario, Diagonal San Martín 1400 @ 430641 Car Rental: Localiza, Diagonal San Martín 1173 @ 424201

T Trains

The Ferrobaires train station is in Quequén Calle 563 near 580. The “Brisas del Mar” departs for Constitución station in Buenos Aires three times per week and takes 11 hours.

a Sport •

Canoeing: Río Quequén Grande. Boat hire • Fishing: Club de Pesca Necochea, Calle 69–2748. From promontories and in Río Quequén Grande • Polo: Estancia La Baguala located 35 km from town is a polo ranch. There is a polo school and accommodation is available • Polo: Estancia La Pandorga, located 7 km from town. Besides polo tuition there are photographic safaris, bird watching and trekking tours are organized. For information: @ (02320) 492078. In Buenos Aires: @ (011) 48211876 fax Sport in Quequén • Golf: Necochea Golf Club, Avenida Antártida Argentina near 575 @ 423468/425819; 18 holes—one of the 183

Necochea

PAMPA PROVINCES •

del Tigre. Leaving Avenida 2 and following the beach you reach an area where the coastal sierra meets the sea. The rocks are heavily eroded. The area is frequented by divers. A small eating place exists here. Further south past Punta Negra is a large cave which is said to have been the hideout of an outlaw. The area is frequented by fishermen. This is a half-day excursion

•

Médano Blanco is a small place some 35 km south of Necochea. As the name implies it has white dune formations along the beach. This is a 4WD excursion. The trip is organized by some tour operators ($30.00 for half day) Day excursions to Miramar, 100 km north, Mar del Plata, 125 km north can be made with regular bus services

OLAVARRÍA

Olavarría Population: 80 000 Postal code: 7400 @ area code: (02284) Altitude: 310 m Distances From Buenos Aires: 350 km south on RN 3 • From Bahía Blanca: 320 km north-east on RP 51 then RP 76 •

O

lavarría is almost exactly in the geographical centre of Buenos Aires Province. The terrain around Olavarría is predominantly flat pampa. A few hills not higher than 280 m stretching from south-east to north-west break the monotony; it is cattle farming country. The first Spaniard to reach this region was Cristóbal Cabral who signed peace treaties with the local Indians in 1741. In 1770 Manuel Pinazzo reconnoitered the area in the company of a friendly Indian chief, Cacique Lincon. In 1828 Fuerte Laguna Blanca was founded and the tribe of Cacique Juan Manuel Catriel settled here. The fort remained the tribe’s property for 50 years. In 1867 Olavarría was founded and for some time was the southernmost outpost of white Argentina. In 1872 the Argentine army, with the help of Indian chief Cipriano Catriel, defeated Calfucura (“Emperor of the Pampas”) at the battle of San Carlos de Bolívar. Once peace was established many immigrants, particularly Wolga Germans, moved here

Olavarría

and began to farm the area from 1879 on. They founded the agricultural settlement of Hinojo 6 km from Olavarría. The descendants of Cacique Manuel Catriel still live in the district. While the area is predominantly agricultural there is some mining activity; in the Sierra Chica the rare red granite is mined.

B Tourist information

•

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Rivadavia 2850 @ 441359 fax 427471

E Eating out Restaurants • Central C.A.E., Lavalle near del Valle • Kapicua, San Martín near Moreno. Pizzería • La Fusta, Necochea near España • La Vicente, V López 2311. Pizzería • Nuevo Alonso, Colonel Suárez 2639 184

BUENOS AIRES C Accommodation in Olavarría Hotels ** ** ** * *

Rohes, Alsina 3235 AEFGJLPSTUV Santa Rosa, Vicente López 2956 AEFGJLPUV Savoy, Moreno 2882 near Belgrano ADEFGHJKLMNPRUVY Fax 423108 Gran Hotel Olavarría, Necochea 3050 AEGHLPTV Centenario, General Paz 3009 AEGHJLPVT

Hospedajes A A A A

Cedro, Pringles 3247 LP El Jardín, Necochea 3286 LP La Posada, Pringles 2767 LP Nuevo Hotel Argentino, Pringles 3001 near Dorrego LP A Rex, Pringles near Cabral LP B Calabria, Del Valle 5182

Cafeterías • Americano, V López 3164 • Cero-Cero, Rivadavia 2938 • Il Tornetto, Alsina near Paseo Ceresito. Piano bar • La Farola, V López near Belgrano • Paris, V López 2700 Eating out in San Jacinto • Restaurant San Jacinto, RP 76. Grill. Place of a decisive battle in 1856 between a confederated Indian army and the Argentine Army

•

I Post and telegraph

•

• •

424232 440810

$G $E

2 2

@ @ @

424326/440500 $F 424016 $G 421860 $G

2 2 2

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421304 420605 421361

$H $H $H

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@ @ @

420729 420729 424870

$H

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2

Rent a car: Localiza, Necochea 3229 @ 443945

T Train

The Ferobaires station is on Pringles near Necochea @ 420616.

a Sport

•

Golf: Club A. Estudiantes (Olavarría), Lavalle near Cortés @ (02284) 427334/ 429244; 18 holes

p Sightseeing

Post office: Correo Argentino, Belgrano 2439 Telephone: Cabina pública, España 2965

S Buses

The bus terminal is in Pringles 3190 @ 420330. • El Rápido @ 444348 • El Serrano, Ave. Ituzaingó 850 @ 420476 • Expreso Córdoba–Mar del Plata, Empresa Liniers, T.A.C., La Estrella Services • Buenos Aires: 16 services daily; 8 hours • Bahía Blanca: 6 services daily • La Plata: 5 services daily

Museo Municipal Etnográfico y de Artes Plásticos “Damaso Arce” (Damaso Arce Municipal Ethnographic and Sculpture Museum). On exhibit are paintings of contemporary Argentinian artists, an anthropological section, and archeological objects

s Excursions

•

•

U Motoring •

@ @

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Service station: Y.P.F., Moreno near Dorrego

185

Sierra Chica: In 1855 a battle took place here between the troops of General Bartolomé Mitre and the Indians under Catriel and Cachul. A granite monolith bearing a plaque has been erected as a memorial of the battle Laguna Blanca Grande: 84 km northwest on RN 226 has a tourist complex frequented by fishermen. Club de Pescadores has restaurant and camping facilities Salto de Piedra on Arroyo Tapalqué. This is a fairly large — and

Olavarría

PAMPA PROVINCES unsuspected in this flat country — waterfall in the hills to the west of town

PEHUAJÓ Postal code: 6450 @ Area code: (02396) Distances Buenos Aires: 370 km north-east on RN 5 • Guaminí 170 km south on RP 65 and RP 86 (page 133) •

P

ehuajó is located in the south-western part of Buenos Aires Province on the main route from Buenos Aires to Santa Rosa in La Pampa Province. •

The main attraction is Laguna Las Melillas; there is also a golf course.

a Sport

C Accommodation •

•

Hotel Piccolini, B. Mitre 434 @ (02396)4703033

•

Hotel Los Nogales, Artigas near Del Valle @ (02396)470862 Hotel Mesón Español, B. Mitre 19 @ (02396)473081 fax

Golf Club Pehuajó. RN 5 KM 365, access to aerodromo

PEHUEN-CÓ

Pehuen-Có Population: 200 Postal code: 8109 @ area code: (02292) Distance from Bahía Blanca: 82 km east on RN 3 and RP 113

T

his is the most southerly of the seaside resorts in Buenos Aires Province . Its Araucanian name points to pampa tribes that inhabited the area before the arrival of the Europeans. Nearby was the Fuerte Pavón which at one time was the frontier post. Although the town was planned in 1937 by a nearby landowner it only took off as planned in 1948. It is best reached from Bahía Blanca by bus. From Buenos Aires there are regular flights and train services to Bahía Blanca; from Bahía Blanca take a bus to Punta Alta and from there to Pehuen Có. The beaches extend for 8 km and are of fine sand forming live dunes; some dunes have been

Pehuen-Có

densely planted with pine and eucalyptus trees. Most of the access roads are also lined with pine trees. This is still a quiet sea side resort with beaches almost belonging to yourself.

C Accommodation **

186

Hotel Cumelcán, Avenida Avelino González AEFGJLPUV

BUENOS AIRES • • •

n Entertainment

Hotel Anay Có, Avenida Fragata Sarmiento 855 $G 2 Hotel Pehuen Có $G 2 Hotel Ruca-Lauquen, Calle 8–4271, 300 m @ 426413 $G 2

• •

I Post and telegraph

•

D Camping • •

El Cielo, Brown 269 Cumelcán

Camping A.T.E., Avenida San Martín between Calle 8 and 10 Camping Bosque Encantado, Avenida Trolón

Post office: Estafeta de Correo, Avenida San Martín near Juncal

S Bus

•

E Eating out

•

Meals cost from $Y. • Restaurant La Toscana, Brown • Restaurant La Barraca, González Martínez between Bouchardo and Espora • Restaurant Hotel Cumelcán

Bus companies running from Bahía Blanca to Punta Alta: La Pampa, La Acción Bus companies running from Punta Alta to Pehuen Có: Ciudad de Punta Alta

a Sport

Fishing is popular. However boats can only be hired in Punta Alta: Luiggi 1506 @ (02932) 422732. $35.00 per person.

PERGAMINO

Pergamino Postal code: 2700 @ area code: (02477) Distance: From Buenos Aires: 221 km west on RN 8

P

ergamino is on the main route to Córdoba via Río Cuarto It has good tourist facilities and a golf course.

C Accommodation ***

• • •

•

Hotel Americano, Merced 418 @ 424868 Hotel Fachinat, Ave. Alsina 440 @ 436327 Hotel Fénicia, Ave. H. Yrigoyen 2 @ 432604 Hotel Richard, Ave. H. Yrigoyen 1001 @ 435611

•

Hotel Terrazas, Ave. h. Yrigoyen 980 @ 421597 Hotel War, Dr. Alem 237 @ 427917

a Sport

•

Golf: Club Sirio Libanés, Avenida Pellegrini @ 423007

PILAR

Pilar Postal code: 1629 @ area code: (02322) Altitude: sea level Distance: From Buenos Aires 60 km west on RN 8

187

Pilar

PAMPA PROVINCES

P

ilar, located a short distance west of the city of Buenos Aires, is the polo and golf capital of Buenos Aires Province: in 1980 the Argentine Polo association established here seven polo fields with automatic sprinkling systems. These polo game facilities were added to the ten already existing golf courses.

C Accommodation •

•

****Golf

Hotel Avectua, R. Levene near northern access road KM 52 @ 431098 Hotel Green, Ramallo 536 @ 431531

•

a Sport

Club Argentino RN 8 KM 4.5 @ (02320) 491190/492218 Highland Park Country Club, Avenida de los Jazmines @ (02320) 470093/470090

Sport in Fátima-Pilar Fátima is just outside the town center. • Pilar Golf Club, RN 8 KM 60.5

Golf • Boca Ratón Golf Club, RP 25 KM 14 @ 427881 • Carmel Country Club, Monseñor De Andrea @ 428709 • Golfer’s Country Club, RP 28 KM 4.5 @ 428787 • Larena Country Club, Intersection RN 8 and RP 6 KM 1.5 @ 490248/302 • Campo de Golf Los Alamos, Calle Garaví @ 470337/470277 • Los Lagartos Country Club, Ruta Panamericana KM 45.5 Acceso Norte @ 470195/339 • Mapuche Country Club, RN 8 KM 47.5 @ 420653/54 • Martindale Country Club Norte S.A., Avenida Juan D. Perón 2375 @ 485760/749 • Mayling Club de Campo, Ruta Panamericana KM 50 @ 429880/95 • Sociedad Hebraica Argentina, RN 8 KM 51.5 @ 427288/94 Sport in Del Viso Located 10 km east on RP 26; postal code: 1669. • Club de Campo Armenia S.A., RN 8 Panamericana KM 35.5 access to Pilar @ (02320) 471148

Sport in Los Cardales Located 25 km north-west; postal code: 2814. • Los Cardales Country Club, Ruta 4 KM 4 @ (02322) 499210 • Campo de Golf La Orquídea, 600 m off RN 6 on Camino Capilla del Señor @ (02322) 492037 Sport in Matheu Located 15 km north on RP 25; postal code: 1627. • Campo Chico Golf Club, Alborada @ (02327) 47666/67/69 Los Cardales Located 20 km south; postal code: 2814. • Los Cardales Country Club, Ruta 4 KM 4 @ (02322) 499210 • Campo de Golf La Orquídea, 600 m off RN 6 on Camino Capilla del Señor @ (02322) 492037 Matheu Located 15 km north; postal code: 1627. • Campo Chico Golf Club, Alborada @ (02327) 47666/67/69

PINAMAR

Pinamar Population: 10 200 Postal code: 7167 @ area code: (02254) Altitude: sea level Distance from Buenos Aires: 322 km south-east on RP 11

P

inamar has nearly 30 km of beaches and good surf. The tourist season runs from December to March; during this time prices tend to rise. Outside the

Pinamar

188

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Iglesia Nuestra Sra de la Paz Municipalidad Correo Argentino Hospital Bus terminal Accommodation Eating out Cinemas

Playa Marbella

MAR ARGENTINO

PINAMAR

season it is rather quiet. The main shopping district is on Avenida Bunge near E. Shaw. Artists display and sell their artefacts opposite the town hall on the corner of Bunge and Shaw during summer. There are scores of shopping centers, the largest being Shopping Atlantic Palace on Avenida Bunge, La Farola in Avenida Constitución near del Lenguado, and Marinas on Avenida Bunge 799. Warmer than usual waters along the Atlantic coast and extensive beaches cou189

Pinamar

PAMPA PROVINCES pled with shallow waters attract many visitors. The dunes behind the beach have been stabilized by planting pine trees. •

Some 7 km further to the south are Ostende and Valeria del Mar, whose facilities are listed here. Local buses connect the small seaside resorts with Pinamar and Villa Gesell; El Rápido Argentino runs services to La Plata. Ostende (postal code: 7167 and @ code: 0254, population: 2200) is closer to Pinamar and can be reached on foot via Simbad El Marino. It was founded in 1913 by, as the name implies, Belgian immigrants. In the hinterland some 24 km west on RP 74, the town of General Madariaga is still steeped in the gaucho tradition. See page 237.

Club Italiano, Eneas near Cazón. International cuisine • Con Estilo Campo, Avenida Bunge near Marco Polo • Don Pepone, Jasón 1055 • El Vasco, Constitución near Júpiter. Seafood • El Vivero, Avenida Bunge near Del Libertador. Vegetarian cuisine • Green Links de Golf, De las Artes near Aromo • Il Garda, Avenida Shaw 132. Italian cuisine • La Carreta, Avenida Bunge near Buen Orden • La Casona del Tío, corner of Libertador and Avenida Bunge. Parrilla • La Escondida, Constitución 948. Parrilla • La Font del Gat, Avenida Bunge 580. International cuisine • La Tranquera de Juan, Avenida Rivadavia 1083. Parrilla • Los Troncos, corner of Avenida Bunge and Shaw. Parrilla • Parada Uno, Avenida Bunge near Shaw • Paxapoga, Avenida Libertador near Avenida Bunge. Seafood • Tante, De las Artes 35 • Tío Enrique, Jupiter 245 near Rivadavia. Parrilla Pizzerías • Pasta Nostra, Avenida Bunge 300. Italian cuisine Cafeterías and confiterías • Café Green, Avenida Bunge 1175 near Shaw • Status Playa, Del Mar near De Las Acacias Eating out in Ostende Meals cost from $Y.

A Festivals • • • •

Election of Miss Pinamar: January Foundation of Pinamar: February; main venue is the golf club in Avenida del Valle Fértil Carnival in Valeria del Mar: February El Caballo Arabe (Arabic horse show) in Cariló: February

B Tourist information • • •

Dirección de Turismo, Avenida Bunge 654 @ 491680/482796, fax 485677. Open 09:00–19:00 Pinamar Web page:www.pinamar. com.ar Cariló Web page:www.webcarilo. com.ar

D Camping Camping in Ostende • Camping Ostende, Avenida La Plata near Cairo. Five km from Pinamar. Capacity: 85 tents. Restaurant

Restaurants • Congos, Belgrano 317 • Gitanillos, Moreno 58 • Hipocampo, Moreno near beach • Tagomago, Brown near beach

E Eating out Restaurants • Armonía, Avenida Shaw near De la Trucha. International cuisine • Club House, Avenida del Valle Fértil near Goleta Independencia. International cuisine

Pinamar

Eating out in Cariló • Cariló Tenis Ranch, Casuarina near Perdiz 190

BUENOS AIRES C Accommodation in Pinamar Apart Hotels

• Agua Marina, Avenida Bunge 1475 • Pinamar Family Resort, De La Lisa 1107 E-mail: [email protected] • Puerto Bunge, Avenida Bunge 999 near Marco Polo S

Cabañas

• Tampu, Jonás near Simbad El Marinero • Tilcara, Marco Polo near Bunge

Hotels **** **** **** **** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** * * * * * *

@

481978/480554 $C

4

@ @

481810 480224

$C

2

@ @

482392 482398

$F $E

2 2

$C

2

$C

2

$C

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2

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Algeciras, Avenida del Libertador Sur 75 @ 485550 Fax 481161 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Arenas, Avenida Bunge 688 between Marco Polo and Simbad @ 482444 Fax 486770 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ del Bosque, Avenida Bunge 1550 near Jupiter @ 482480/84 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Ocean Village, Ave. Del Mar 1285 E-mail: [email protected] @ 495800 El Bufón del Rey, De Los Delfines 81 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 482323 La Golondrina, Avenida Constitución 590 near Robinson Crusoe Fax 485045 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 482240 Libertador, Jasón 1013 near Avenida Bunge ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 482268 Mojomar, Burriquetas 247 near Acacias 625 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 482345 Novo Siena, Avenida Constitución 456 near Robinson Crusoe ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 482545 Playas Hotel, Avenida Bunge 250 near De La Sirena E-mail:[email protected] ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 482236 Riviera, Avenida del Tuyú 51 near Del Mar ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 482334 Soleado, Sarmiento near Nuestras Malvinas E-mail: [email protected] @ 490340/0201 La Posada del Rey, Avenida del Tuyú 98 near Del Odiseo AEFGJLPUSV @ 482267 Mesón, Avenida Constitución 589 near Robinson Crusoe AEFGJLPUV @ 482237 Viking, Avenida Eolo 199 near Libertador AEFGJLPSUV @ 482330 Berlin, Rivadavia 326 near De las Artes AELPSV @ 482320 Bologna, Jasón 523 Robinson Crusoe and Simbad AELPV @ 482242 Calegari, De las Artes 336 near Mejillón AELPSV @ 482427 Saint James, Avenida Constitución 325 AELPSV @ 482234 Sardegna, Avenida Bunge 1055 near Marco Polo AELPSV @ 482760 Yacanto, Rivadavia 509 near Simbad AELPV @ 482367

Hosterías *** **

Bora Bora, Avenida del Tuyú 441 near Libertador ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY María Fernanda, Rivadavia 675 AEFGJLPUV

191

@ @

482394 482682

Pinamar

PAMPA PROVINCES Accommodation in Pinamar— continued Hospedajes

@ @

482522 484799

$G $G

2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @

486081 482556 483067 486680 482888 486028

$F $G $G $G $G $H

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@

482908

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1

@

486674/5

$H

2

@ @

487171 486110/487373 $H

2

@

488899/488989 fax

@ @ @ @ @

486474 486825 486121 496979 482367

$F $F $G $G $H

2 2 2 2 2

Cariló Soleil, Avellano near beach AELPV Cariló Village, Carpintero near Arrayán AELPV Club Cariló Playa, Avutarda near Lambertiana AELPV

@ @ @

470341 470244 470913

$H $H

2 2

Talara, Laurel near beach ACDEFGJKLPTUVY • Old country Caril, Becasina near A. Del Cielo

@ @

470304/5 470182

$G

2

A Rosemarie, De Las Medusas 1381 near Inea LP A Valle Fértil, Del Cangrejo 1110 near Valle Fértil LP

Accommodation in Ostende Hotels *** ** ** ** ** *

Viejo Hotel Ostende, Biarritz 799 Dubrava, B. de Irigoyen 119 Europa, Belgrano 288 Nitra, Sarandí 299 Olimpia, Aristóbulo del Valle 138 Rambla, Biarritz 16 near P Florida

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AELPV

Youth Hostels

A Albergue Pinamar, Nuestras Malvinas near Sarmiento BEFLP

Accommodation in Valeria del Mar Apart Hotels

La Pérgola, Comodoro Py 53 AELPV Valeria del Sol, Bouchard near Piedrabuena AELPV * Cabañas Valeria Inn, Espora 3069 AELPV • Oro de Sol, Azopardo 298 near Urtubey E-mail: [email protected] * *

Hotels *** ** ** ** *

Open Beach, King 520 Axon Beach, Rivadavia 153 Hamburgo, San Martín 209 Yanet Sol, Azopardo 598 Yacanto, Rivadavia 509

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AELPV

Accommodation in Cariló Apart Hotels * * *

Hotels ***

• • •

n Entertainment

Camelia Sensi, Boyero near Avellano Grundwald, Avenida Divisadero near Cerezo Le Jardin, Aromo near Boyero

There are many discos and pool rooms. The main entertainment center is near the corner of Libertador and Avenida Bunge. • Cine Pinamar, Avenida Bunge 98 • Cine Bahía, Avenida Bunge 98 • Cine Oasis, Avenida Shaw 590 • Disco Bellow, Avenida Bunge 70 • Disco Catalina, Del Tridente near Avenida Bunge

Eating out in Valeria Del Mar Restaurants • Bodensee, Espora 1669 • El Dogma, Cta. Halcón 177 • El Chanquete, Espora 135 • Il Comendatore, Jorge 50 • La Ventola, Ave. Espora 499

Pinamar

192

BUENOS AIRES S Buses from Pinamar

The bus terminal is in Shaw between Del Lenguado and Pejerrey. Bus companies • Alvarez Hnos @ 483988 • Antón @ 482378 • Atlántida-Central Argentino @ 482885; • Córdoba-Mar del Plata @ 482885 • Costamar @ 482885 • El Rápido Argentino • Expreso Alberino @ 482885 • Expreso Paraná @ 485068 • Montemar @ 482885 • Pampa @ 482378 • Río de la Plata @ 482247 • Ruta Atlántica @ 484696 • Ruta Mar 1@ 483988 • Zenit @ 483397 Long-distance services •

Destination Buenos Aires

• •

Córdoba La Plata

• • •

Luján San Clemente del Tuyú Tandil

Services 7 daily

Duration Company 6 hrs Central Argentino, Antón, Río de La Plata, Expreso Paraná Expreso Córdoba–Mar del Plata El Rápido Argentino, Río de La Plata Atlántida El Rápido, Costamar Río Paraná

•

•

Disco Old Ways, Avenida Bunge near Simbad el Marino • Disco Stop, Avenida Shaw near Del Lenguado Entertainment in Ostende • Disco Ku, Quintana near Nuestras Malvinas Entertainment in Valeria del Mar • Casino, RP 11 9 km south of Pinamar at the access road to Valeria del Mar; 25 roulette tables, dancing with live band • Disco Mike’s Tube, Azopardo near Espora

M Services and facilities

• •

•

Aerolíneas Argentinas, Avenida Bunge 799 near Libertador in Galerías Marinas II @ 483299

U Motoring

•

Gas station: Shell Pellegrini near Illía

a Sport

•

Post office: Jasón 524 Telephone office: Telpin, Avenida Shaw near Jasón. Open 06:30–02:00

•

L Financial •

Bicycle hire: Macca, Ave. Constitución 1095 @ 494183 Motorcycle hire: Del Cazón 1261

R Air services

•

I Post and telegraph • •

Red Link, Avenida Shaw near Constitución. ATM

Cambio Negro el Once, Del Lenguado near Avenida Shaw Red Banelco, Avenida Shaw near Jasón. ATM

193

Aero Club Pinamar, RP 74 @ 483522/484297 Golf: Links Pinamar S.A., Avenida del Valle Fértil near Goleta Independencia @ 3111722/1981; 9 holes and 18 holes. Most tournaments are held here in January and February; e-mail: [email protected]

Pinamar

PAMPA PROVINCES •

Swimming: Complejo Balneario Integral C R features a series of connected swimming pools surrounded by palms and flowers. There is a bar in the pool which serves swimmers and sun-bathers alike. The complex also has a sauna, rest rooms, volley-ball fields, a camp site, and a gymnasium. All buildings are set a meter above the beach, so that you have an unobstructed view of the sea. There is an indoor/outdoor restaurant next to the swimming pool. Tents can be hired by the month Club Hípico • Horse-riding: Hipocampus, Avenida Intermédanos near Avenida Bunge • Sport fishing: Big Hobby, Bunge 1095 @ 495063; e-mail: [email protected] • Squash: Pinamar Squash Rackets, Del Tridente near Gulliver Sport in Valeria del Mar • Bicycle hire: El Indio, Ave. Tomás Espora 225 @ 486752 • Mountain bike hire: Mountain Bike, Garay near Ayacucho @ 496244

Sport in Cariló • Golf: Cariló Golf Club, Ñandú near Perdiz Parque Cariló @ (02267) 47147 • Horseriding: Estancia Dos Montes, Cariló @ (02267) 470045; horseriding along the beaches

s Excursions Tour operators • Wenner Excursions, Ave. Bunge 486 near Ave. Del Mar @ 487951; sand dune excursions Excursions • The hinterland offers visits to several lagunas: Laguna Los Horcones 17 km west and Laguna La Salada Grande 27 km north west with facilities in Club de Pesca Madariaga on the south shore. Also visits to nearby estancias with extensive kiwifruit and apricot plantations • Reserva Dunícola: Located a short distance north of town. This 27 ha reserve has dunes up to 30 m. Admission free

SAN ANTONIO DE ARECO

San Antonio de Areco Population: 16 500 Postal code: 2760 @ area code: (02326) Altitude: 34 m Distance from Buenos Aires: 113 km west on RN 8

Key to map A C D H I T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Hospital Dirección Municipal de Turismo Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 4 5 9

Hotel San Carlos Hotel Hostal de Areco Hotel Posada de Ramos Generales 10 Hotel Residencial

San Antonio de Areco

14 Hotel El Hornero

4 Eating out 2 8 15 22

Restaurant La Costa Restaurant Parrilla Cafetería Barril 900 Restaurant Dell’Olmo

9 Sights 1 6 7

Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes Museo de la Ciudad (Town Museum) Museo Municipal de Arte Plásticos J. Tapia

194

20 Casa Museo del Pintor Osvaldo Gasparini

0 Services 3 11 12 13 16 17 18 19 21 23

Silversmith Cristina Giordano Silversmith Silversmith Silversmith Ceramics Silversmith Silversmith Ceramics Silversmith

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Plaza Belgrano

20

DE LOS MARTÍNEZ

ALVEAR D

23 21 22

To Junín

GUIDO

ROSA DE GILES

AZCUENAGA

DE LOS LIMA

IRIGOYEN

SIMONA SEGURA

VIEYTES

MOONEY DE MORGAN

SAN ANTONIO DE ARECO

E. FITTE

To

railway station

To Lobos

195

San Antonio de Areco

PAMPA PROVINCES

S

an Antonio de Areco is located in the pampa on the Río Areco. It was founded in 1730 on the farm of Don Ruiz de Arellano and is one of the oldest towns in Buenos Aires Province. The chapel, built in 1728 and dedicated to San Antonio de Padua, became the hub of the new town. It was an important place during the colonial era because of its location on the junction of the Camino Real to Asunción in Paraguay and Santiago in Chile. The fort erected nearby was called Carmen de Areco. The town’s name is a combination of the names of the San Antonio de Padua chapel and the Carmen de Areco fort. The Puente Viejo was built in 1857 as a toll bridge. San Antonio de Areco is still very much a rural community steeped in the gaucho tradition. Many buildings and streets from the colonial era are still intact. Forests line the banks of the river; fishing is not permitted.

D Camping

A Festivals

E Eating out

•

Camping is permitted on the northern river bank. Access is from the corner of J A Güiraldes and RN 8 Camping on RN 8 • Autocamping La Porteña A.C.A., intersection with RP 41.

Semana de la Tradición (Week of Tradition): November. Traditional gaucho festival with horse parades in remembrance of the days when Indians still attacked the settlements, also celebrates the birthday of José Hernández author of Martín Fierro. The main venue is held on the grounds of the Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes. Plenty of music, dancing, and songs. Artesanía show

Restaurants • Almacen de Ramos Generales, Bolívar 66. Parrilla • Dell’Olmo, Alsina 365. Pizzería • El Colonial, Alvear 580 • El Lugar, Alsina 208. Pizzería • La Boca Llena, Boulevard Alsina Cafeterías • Barril 900, San Martín 377 • Jockey Club, Alsina 226 • Karaku, Segundo Sombra near Arellano • Magua, Alsina 70 • Palos, Alsina 175. Bowling

B Tourist information •

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Lavalle 363 near Alsina @ 43165. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–13:30 and Sat–Sun 10:00–17:00

C Accommodation in San Antonio de Areco Hotels El Hornero, Moreno 250 near San Martín AEHLPV @ 422733 * Fuaz, Smith near Azcuénaga AELPV @ 422487 * Hostal de Areco, Zapiola 25 AEFLPSV @ 424063 * La Posada del Ceibo, Irigoyen between Avenida Smith and RN 8 AELPSV @ 424614 * Residencial, Segundo Sombra near Rivadavia AEHLPV @ 422166 * San Carlos, Zapiola near Zerbione AELPV @ 422401 • Posada de Ramos Generales, Bolívar 66 AELPSV @ (0266) 4391318 *

Accommodation on RN 8 *

Motel KM 13, near Segundo Sombra AELPV

San Antonio de Areco

196

@

424755

$F $F $F

2 2 2

$F

2

$H $H

2 2

$G

2

BUENOS AIRES • • • •

n Entertainment •

Disco Bungalow, General Paz near Arellano

I Telephone and telegraph • •

a Sport

Post office: Correo Argentino, Del Valle near Alvear Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Del Valle near Guido

•

San Antonio de Areco Golf Club, RN 8 KM 111 @ (02326) 42709

p Sightseeing

•

S Buses Bus companies • T.A. Chevallier, Empresa Alvarez Hnos, Empresa Argentina, Empresa San José, El Rápido Argentino Destinations • Buenos Aires: 8 services daily; 1 1 2 hrs El Rápido Argentino, Empresa Argentina, T.A. Chevallier

T Trains

•

The F C General Bartolomé Mitre station is on the corner of M J Güiraldes and Irigoyen.

U Motoring •

Alsina: No 17, No 192 Arellano: No 277, No 290 General Paz 165 San Martín 166

•

Gas station: Esso, Smith near San Martín

•

Y Shopping

Beautiful handicrafts are available here and include silverware and leather goods, mostly in the gaucho style. Ceramics • Alsina No 257, No 345 Textiles and knitwear • Cristina Giordano, Sarmiento 112 • Mirtha Mendizabel, Del Valle near Irigoyen Silver-smiths and jewelers • Alvear No 340 • Azcuénaga No 425

Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes (Ricardo Güiraldes Gaucho Museum), Camino R Güiraldes near Aurelino. Follow Calle Moreno to Río Areco and cross the Puente Viejo over the Río Areco, built in 1852. Named after a writer who described gaucho life, the museum is a splendid example of a late nineteenth-century estancia and is surrounded by a park. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–15:00 Sat, Sun 10:00–17:00 Museo de la Ciudad (Town museum), Matheu near Alsina. On exhibit are pieces and documents of the local history. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–14:00 Sat, Sun 10:00–17:00 Museo Municipal de Arte Plásticos J. Tapia (J,Tapia Municipal Sculpture Museum) Lavalle 363 Casa Museo del Pintor Osvaldo Gasparini, Avenida Alvear Plaza Gómez

s Excursions

•

La Bamba Estancia, a gaucho ranch which has been made into a tourist attraction, 8 km from town. There are facilities here for swimming, tennis, and golf. The ranch belongs to the Aldao family, and tours and short stays are arranged by Aldao Viajes, Maipú 872, Capital @ 43929707

SAN BERNARDO

San Bernardo Population: 3000 Postal code: 7111 @ area code: (02257) Distance from Buenos Aires: 355 km south on RN 2 and RP 11

197

San Bernardo

PAMPA PROVINCES

S

an Bernardo was founded in 1942. It is a medium sized beach resort with good facilities on the Atlantic coast between Mar del Tuyú to the north and Pinamar to the south. Since its foundation a major effort has been made to forest the town and the surrounding area. The beaches merge north with those of La Lucila and south with those of Mar de Ajó. Altogether there are 18 separate beaches within the town’s precincts. Those north of Avenida San Bernardo are called Costa Azul. Overlooking the beaches are cafés, bars, and ice-cream parlors. The main shopping street is Avenida Chiozza, between Avenida San Bernardo and De la Reducción; this portion is a pedestrian mall from 18:00 onwards. Long-distance buses call on this resort town from Buenos Aires and other provincial capitals. All sorts of water sports are catered for: fishing, water-skiing, windsurfing, launch cruises, and jet skiing. •

Also included here are the small beach resorts of Aguas Verdes, 7 km north of San Bernardo, and La Lucila del Mar, 2 km north. At Aguas Verdes the dunes along the beach are 6 m high.

Camping Las Tacuaritas, San Juan 1656 @ 460216 • Camping San Bernardo, Garay near Gaboto @ 460478 • Camping Weekend, Gutiérrez near Salta @ 460567 Camping in Aguas Verdes Charges are $H/I for 4. • Camping Los Hipocampos, Ushuaia between San Juan with 35 sites • Camping Manu–Kay, Fragata Libertad near Yate Fortuna with 150 sites

B Tourist information •

Oficina de Turismo, Avenida San Bernardo near Calle 19 @ 463027 Tourist information in La Lucila del Mar • Oficina de Turismo, Entre Ríos near Catamarca @ (02257) 460380

E Eating out

The specialty is picada especial, consisting of calamari and fried onions garnished with parsley and lemon juice. Cafeterías and confiterías • Joseph, Chiozza near Drummond • Stella Maris, Chiozza near Zuviría Pizzerías • Don Corleone, Chiozza 2147 • La Jirafa, San Bernardo near Mitre • Pizza Café Bahía, Chiozza 3037

D Camping

Charges are $H/I for 4. To La Lucila del Mar

SAN BERNARDO

R. GUTIÉRREZ DI AG ON AL

To Buenos Aires

J. HERNÁNDEZ ES

ZUVIRIA

TR A AD

HERNADARIAS AVE. SAN BERNARDO

To Mar del Plata

Restaurants • Don Tato, Avenida San Bernardo near Santiago del Estero • El Gran Choripan, Strobel 90 • La Casa de Luis, Chiozza 1702 • La Gran Vía, Chiozza 2056 • Pastas Marisa, Chiozza near de la Reducción • Vinuesa, Costanera near San Bernardo

GARAY

AL

UR

QU

ANDRADE

QUERINI

AG

ON

N

DI

FALKNER

AVENIDA COSTANERA

SANJUAN

CHIOZZA

CATAMARCA

LA RIOJA

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO

B. MITRE

TUCUMÁN

JUJUY

SALTA

ELCANO

GENERAL MADARIAGA

ESQUIU

STROBEL

ATLANTIC OCEAN

IZA

STA MARÍA DE ORO

DE LA REDUCCIÓN

Eating out in Aguas Verdes • Restaurant Anaspano Ristorante, Fragata Sarmiento 125

MENSAJERÍAS

To Mar de Ajó

San Bernardo

198

BUENOS AIRES C Accommodation in San Bernardo Hotels **** **** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * *

Neptuno Playa, La Rioja near Hernández @ ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Seaboard, Avenida San Bernardo ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ Bel Sur, Mitre near Esquiú ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Chiavari, Avenida Chiozza 2260 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Felence, Avenida Costanera 2888 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Savoia, Avenida Chiozza near Strobel ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Carmen, San Juan 2016 AEFGJLPUV @ Da Vinci, San Juan 1850 AEFGJLPUV @ Excelsior, San Juan 1841 AEFGJLPUV @ Haymyro, Avenida Chiozza 2312 AEFGJLPUV @ Krakus, Avenida Chiozza 1645 AEFGJLPUV @ La Argentina, Avenida Chiozza 2641 AEFGJLPUV @ Royal, San Juan 1544 AEFGJLPUV @ San Bernardo, San Juan near Drumond AEFGJLPUV @ San Miguel, Avenida Chiozza 1702 near Drumond AEFGJLPUV @ Stromboli, Avenida Chiozza 2121 AEFGJLPUV @ Marenka, Machado 265 AELPV @ Mirasol, Drumond 10 AELPV @ Resi, Falkner 292 AELPV @ San Antonio, Avenida Chiozza 2952 AELPV @ Ser Mar, Zuviría 71 AELPV @

Hospedajes

461789

$G

2

461712/461294 460368/460565 460966 460628/463015 460250/460211 460452 460688 460525 460273 460438 460456 460215 460216

$G $G/H $G/H $G/H $G/H $H/I $H/I $H/I $H/I $H/I $G/H $H/I $H/I

2 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

460216 460450 460306 460531 460237 460265 460358

$H/I $H/I $I $I $I $I $I

1 1 1 1 1 1 1

@ @

430209 460285

@

460353

$J

@

462420

$H/I

1

• Don Quinto, Destructor Espora 1245 ALPUV @ 462465/461465 $H • Brisas Del Mar, Avenida Portaviones between Independencia and Chiriguano $H/I

1

A Ileana, Avenida Chiozza 1621 A Rosibel, Catamarca 2155

LP LP

Youth Hostels

A Los Tamariscos, San Juan near Moreno ADEFLPS

Accommodation in Costa Azul Hotels **

Colonial, Mendoza

AEFGJLPUV

Accommodation in Aguas Verdes Apart hotels

Accommodation in La Lucila del Mar Hotels *** ** **

La Maison, San Juan 5140 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Casablanca, Mendoza 4742 AEFGJLPUV Lavaggi, Rebagliatti near Costanera AEFGJLPSUV

Hosterías **

La Morada del Sol, San Juan 4818

AEFGJLPUV

199

2

2

@ @ @

462722 $H 462801/462991 $H/I 462303 $J

1 1 1

@

462459

1

$I

San Bernardo

PAMPA PROVINCES Eating out in La Lucila del Mar Cafeterías • Antigua Capilla, Mendoza 4930 local 3 • Arenas, Rebagliatti 50 Restaurants • Balneario Montesol, Córdoba near Costanera • Casablanca, Mendoza 4742 • El Hueso Perdido, Mendoza 4733. Parrilla • La Lucila, Mendoza 4851. Parrilla • Malevil, Mendoza 4650. Parrilla Fast food • El Descanso, Salta 127 Pizzerías • La Placita II, Entre Ríos 350 • La Tanga, Mendoza 4622

•

n Entertainment

•

• •

Disco La Carpa, Avenida San Bernardo near Jujuy Disco Soviet, Avenida San Bernardo near General Madariaga Disco The Route, Avenida San Bernardo 919

I Post and telegraph

• •

Post office: Encotesa, De la Reducción 50 between Avenida Chiozza and Costanera Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, La Rioja near Garay

L Financial

•

Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires, Avenida Chiozza 2359

M Services and facilities

•

Admission to discos is $I/J per person • Bingo, Chiozza near Drummond • Cine Arenas I and II, Chiozza near Drummond • Cine Roxi, Mensajerías between Costanera and Avenida Chiozza • Cine San Bernardo, Chiozza near Esquiú • Disco La Cruz, Avenida San Bernardo near Calle 18 • Disco El Area, Avenida San Bernardo near Salta • Disco The Box, Avenida San Bernardo near Jujuy

Hire of motorcycles: Tucumán 2685 and Mendoza 1492 Hire of horses: Tucumán near Gutiérrez; also excursions on horseback.

S Buses

The long-distance bus terminal is on Avenida San Bernardo near Madariaga, @ 461340.

s Excursions Tour operators • Dallaventur, Calle Chiozza near Obligado @ 463390 fax

SAN CLEMENTE DEL TUYÚ

San Clemente del Tuyú Population: 8000 Postal code: 7105 @ area code: (02252) Distance from Buenos Aires: 320 km south-east on RN 2 then RP 63 and RP 11

A

rgentina’s northernmost beach resort, located south of Punta Norte del Cabo de San Antonio, San Clemente del Tuyú bustles with life in the tourist season but is almost deserted in the winter months. All of the streets bear numbers instead of names. The main shopping area and hub of town is on Calle 1 between Avenida San Martín and Calle 2; it is also a

San Clemente del Tuyú

pedestrian mall. The local artists sell their creations on Plaza Pereyra not far from the mall. 200

C Municipalidad D E I T $

ÍN

Correo Argentino Telephone Tourist information Bus terminal Banks Fishermen’s pier

VI

A Iglesia San Clemente Romano

AV EN IDA

AVE . II

C.1 1

C. 31

C. 29

C. 30

C. 27

11 CALLE 9

C. 28

SAN MART

T

AVENIDA NAVAL

CALLE 26

CALLE 25

CALLE 16

CALLE 17

CALLE 15

Also included is the little beach resort of Las Toninas located just 2 km north of San Clemente along the beach. It has 1700 inhabitants and some small hotels and restaurants. Most of them close at the end of the summer season. The same buses which serve San Clemente also call on Las Toninas. Facilities are listed with those of San Clemente. The beaches are 100–150 metres wide with calm waters. This little town appeals to tourists who seek a quiet beach resort.

C.1 2

BUENOS AIRES

CALLE 8 AV E.

CALLE 7

C IV

CALL AVENIDA III

D

E

E 43

CALLE 20

$

I

CALLE 4

CALLE 3

N

SAN CLEMENTE DEL TUYU

B Tourist information •

Oficina de Turismo, Calle 2 near 65, @ 430718 Tourist information in Las Toninas • Oficina de Turismo, Calle 2–2090 @ 430718

CALLE 2

CALLE 1

AVE. COSTANERA

MAR ARGENTINO

• El Mundo de la Pizza, Calle 2–2237 • Ruta 66, Avenida Talas del Tuyú 3268 • Vinicius, Calle 1–2467 Restaurants • Alfredito, Calle 1 near 3. Parrilla • El Ancla, Calle 8 near 16 • El Encuentro, Calle 16–42. Seafood • El Escorpiano, Calle 1–2536. Parrilla • El Gallo Rengo, Calle 2–2061. Parrilla • El Hispano, Avenida San Martín 162. Spanish cuisine • El Jaleo, Calle 3 between 16 and 1 • El Mesón de Gallega, Calle 10 in the harbor. Seafood • El Paellero Valenciano, Calle 4–2388. Spanish cuisine • Güido, Calle 27–326. Italian cuisine • Hugo y Mary, Avenida 11 in the harbor. Seafood • La Cantina de Beto, in the harbor Avenida 9 near 10. Seafood • La Parrillita, Calle 1–2178 between 3 and 22. Parrilla • La Querencia, Calle 1–2459. Parrilla • Las Brasas, Calle 1 between 2 and 3 • Los Lujaneros, Avenida Costanera 2503. Seafood • Los Muju, Avenida XII–240 in the harbor. Seafood • Playa, Calle 1 near Avenida 11 • Playa Verde, Calle 1 between 18 and 19 • Sea Gull, Calle 1 between 2 and 3 • Vegetariano, Calle 2 between 18 and 19. Vegetarian cuisine

D Camping

Prices charged are $4.00 per person plus $4.00 per tent; for trailers $25.00 per day. All campsites have electricity and hot showers and laundry facilities • A.C.A., Avenida 2–96 @ 421124 also cable TV. Restaurant. Open only in summer • El Tala, Calle 9 bis–1220 @ 421593 • Kumelkan I, Calle 48–259 @ 422059 • Kumelkan II, Calle 50–595 @ 421752 • Los Tres Pinos, Avenida 12–3556 Camping in Las Toninas Charges are $J 1. • Camping El Molino, Calle 26 between 17 and 19 • Camping Las Toninas, Calle 40 between 31 and 33

E Eating out

Ask for Pejerrey al Roquefort a fish dinner made with cheese, a delicious local dish. In the off season (March–December) many restaurants are closed. Cafeterías and confiterías • Parada II, Calle 1–2184 • Tropicana, Calle 1–2108 • Vadinho, Avenida Costanera 18. Bar Pizzerías • El Tala, Avenida Talas del Tuyú 3184 201

San Clemente del Tuyú

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in San Clemente del Tuyú Hotels

ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 421187 *** Altair, Calle 3–2283 near Avenida Costanera ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 421429 *** Gran Casino, Calle 16–71 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 421315 *** La Argentina, San Martín 270 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 421473 *** Mareno, Calle 16–125 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 421322 *** Morales, Calle 1–1856 near Calle 22 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 421207 *** Savoia, San Martín 267 between Calle 3 and Calle 4 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 421107 *** Solmar, Calle 50 near Costanera ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 421438 fax *** Stella Marina, Avenida Costanera between Calle 2 and Calle 3 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 421453 ** Sur, Calle 3–2194 AEFGJLPSUV @ 421137 ** Correa, Talas del Tuyú 2883 (Ruta Acceso) and Avenida 1 AEFGJLPSUV @ 421212 ** Frasi’s, Calle 16–145 AEFGJLPSUV @ 421395 ** Piedras, Avenida San Martín 243 AEFGJLPUV @ 421179 ** Playa, Calle 1–2600 near Calle 18 AEFGJLPSUV @ 421362 ** Royal, Calle 30 between Calle 3 and Calle 4 AEFGJLPUV @ 421431 * Acuario, Avenida San Martín 144 AELPV @ 422322 * Arco Iris, Calle 3–1835 AELPV @ 421372 * Buenos Aires, Calle 24–159 AELPV @ 421055 * Capri, Calle 31 bis near Calle 5 AELPSV @ 421159 * Clamarjo, Calle 4–1664 AELPSV @ 421046 * Constanza, Calle 16–316 AELPSV @ 422338 * Costa del Mar, Calle 25–271 AELPV @ 421451 * Costanera, Ave. Costanera 2429 AELPV @ 421110 * Del Mar, Calle 27–57 AELPSV @ 421356 * Don Severo, Calle 2–2056 AELPSV @ 421217 * Frente al Muelle, Calle 16–7 near Calle 27 AELPSV @ 421218 * Las Grullas, Calle 4 near 30 AELPV @ 422044 * Las Violetas, Calle 21–329 AELPSV @ 421278 * Melani, Calle 1–2325 AELPV @ 421257 * Mili, Calle 27–356 AELPSV @ 421346 * Parque, Calle 18–245 AELPV @ 421122 * Riviera, Calle 21–312 AELPSV @ 421278 * San Jorge, Avenida 63–46 near Avenida Costanera AELPSV @ 421803 * Splendid, Calle 1–2465 AELPSV @ 421316 • El Parque, Calle 18–245 @ 422706

****

Gran Fontainebleau, Calle 3–2294

Hospedajes A A A B

@ @ @ @

Don Alfonso, Calle 4–2333 LP El Topo, Avenida Costanera 1675 LPS Quinta Avenida, Calle 5–1561 LPS Hotel Avenida, Ave. Costanera 1681

•

2

$F/G $F/G $F/G $G $G

2 2 2 2 2

$E/F 2 $F/G 2 $F/G 2 $F/G 2 $G/H $F $H $F/G $H $H $I $I $I $E $G $I $G $I $I $H $I $I $H $I $I $I $I $H

$J $H $J $I

2 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 4 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 1 2

1 1 1 1

Hamburguesas El Patio, Calle 1 between 36 and 38 Pizzerías • Mafalda, Calle 1 near 34 and 36 • Mony, Calle 1–1778

Eating out in Las Toninas Meals cost from $Y. Cafeterías • Snack Bar, Costanera near 44 • Barbara, Calle 1 between 46 and 48

San Clemente del Tuyú

421305 421442 421035 421134

$E/F

202

BUENOS AIRES •

Restaurants • El Rancho, Calle 1–1818. Parrilla • Mat-Two, Calle 1–1946 • Santa Ana, Calle 1–1884. Parrilla • Stella Maris, Calle 1–1739 • Super Patos, Calle 26 near 27

U Motoring

•

Admission to discos is around $Y. • Bingo, Calle 13; $2.00 per bet • Cine Embassy, Calle 19–55 • Cine Tuyú, Avenida San Martín • Disco Ibiza, Calle 18 near 70 • Disco Oba-Oba, Avenida Talas del Tuyú near 70

•

•

I Post and telegraph

Tour operators • Receptivo San Clemente, Calle 1–2397 @ 421009 Excursions • Faro San Antonio: 7 km north in the area of the ecological research station Fundación Vida Silvestre (“Wild Life Foundation”). The area is an important gathering place for migratory birds on their way from Canada to the subantarctic and as such is a mecca for ornithologists and birdwatchers. You can scale the lighthouse over 298 steps for a view over the Bahía de Samborombón and the wildlife sanctuary • Tapera de López, a natural harbor protected by three small islands, is located 8 km north of town. It is the focal point for water activities: sailing boats for hire, swimming, fishing, water-skiing, wind-surfing. At the harborside is a bar and confitería • Mundo Marino: This is a marine life park of 19 ha (47 acre) 3 km north of town. It is considered one of the major marine life parks of South America. It has dolphins, penguins, sea lions, and whales. The visit takes about 4 hours; open daily 10:00–18:00; admission $20.00 • Reserva Natural Campos del Tuyú: On RP 11 west before arriving at the township of General Lavalle. It is

Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires, Calle 1–2258 @ 21390. ATM Banco Comercial de Tandil, Avenida San Martín 146, @ 21361. ATM

M Services • •

Museo Regional de Historia y Ciencias Naturales (Regional History and Natural Sciences Museum), Calle 3 near 1 Museo Ruquita, Avenida 9–8

s Excursions

Post office: Encotesa, Calle 4–2037 Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Calle 4–2152

L Financial •

Deep sea fishing: Asociación de Pesca Náutica y Fomento, Calle 1-2338. Good catches of corvina negra at Punta Rasa up to 20 kg Ice skating: Clemente Patin Club, Avenida Naval near calle 28

p Sightseeing

•

Entertainment in Las Toninas • Cine Las Toninas, Calle 7 between 36 and 38

•

Service station: A.C.A., Calle 19–193

a Sport

•

n Entertainment

• •

Villa Gesell; 10 daily

Hire of bicycles and motorcycles: Avenida 2 near Talas del Tuyú Hire of horses: Vivero (= Nursery) Cosme Argerich, Avenida 3–3500

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Avenida Naval, corner of Avenida San Martín. Taxis are on Calle 10 near San Martín near the bus terminal. Bus companies Alba de Ajó, Almirante Brown, Alvarez Hnos, Costera Criolla, Compañía Argentina de Turismo, Central Argentino, El Rápido Argentino, Empresa Río de la Plata, Expreso Carasa, Expreso Córdoba–Mar del Plata, Expreso Paraná, Flecha de Oro, La Estrella, La Plata S.A.,Plusmar, Río Paraná, Ruta Atlántica, Vosa, Turismo Patri. Long-distance services • Buenos Aires ($24.00; 6 hrs);12 daily • Mar del Plata (4 hrs); 20 daily • Pinamar; 10 daily 203

San Clemente del Tuyú

PAMPA PROVINCES home of native pampa deer which roamed the Argentine pampas before the arrival of the Europeans. They are now practically extinct in their original habitat area

Sights in Las Toninas • The English vessel Her Royal Highness shipwrecked here in 1883. It is located 6 km north

SAN MIGUEL DEL MONTE

San Miguel del Monte Population: 10 000 Postal code: 7220 @ area code: (02271) Altitude: 23 m Distance from Buenos Aires: 110 km south on RN 3

L

1

J. SAYOS

F. DE AZA RA

SANTOS MOLINA

SA

MANUEL BELGRANO

E.

ITALIA

AISCARDI

AV

H

EVA PERÓN

FRAY MARTÍNEZ

B. RIVADAVIA

To bus terminalT

ocated in the pampa, on the shores of Laguna de Monte, the town of San Miguel del Monte grew around the Fuerte San Miguel del Monte. It is one of the few towns in Argentina without a documented foundation date. In 1745 the fort was built directly on the laguna. From 1779 onwards the settlement started to grow and November 18th is regarded as the town’s foundation date. In 1833 Manuel de Rosas set out from San Miguel del Monte on a desert expeTo Buenos Aires S. DE LA CALLE dition. Indeed Manuel de Rosas owned SAN MIGUEL DEL MONTE a small farm here and the original GUARDIA DEL MONTE N dwelling is now situated in town and GRAL URQUIZA can be visited. The town still retains the air of a country town with its narrow MAN UEL SÚAR EZ streets, and some of the small buildings B. DE LALINDE

Key to map H I T

RNA ZEN ON VID ELA DO

3 Accommodation

BLANDEN GUES N M

8 Hostería La Antigua Casona 9 Hotel Laguna del Monte 11 Camping Club Deportivo Independiente

2

AR TÍ

PETRACCHI

N 3

4

H. YR IGO YE N 5

6

PEDRO N. ROJAS

A

NA ZO

7

L .N . AL EM

JUAN ARROQUIGARAY

MA NU EL PI

B. MI TR E

J.J. SARD EN

PEDRO N. LÓPEZ

4 Eating out

8

10

2 3 5 6 10

11

5 Entertainment

9

J .M . NERA O S TA I VE. C

DE R

O

SAS

1

Pizzería La Mamma Rosa Cafetería Joaquinillo Pizzería Don Pancho Cafetería La Pileta Restaurant El Náutico Disco El Limite

9 Sights 4

Museo Enrique Uzal

0 Services

Laguna de Monte

7

San Miguel del Monte

Hospital Dirección de Turismo Bus terminal

204

Lavarap

BUENOS AIRES in the town center still are straw-thatched.

M Services and facilities

The locals call it usually Monte to avoid confusion with the town of San Miguel also in Buenos Aires Province.

• •

S Buses

B Tourist information •

The bus terminal is on Avenida San Martín near RN 3. Bus companies • El Cóndor, La Estrella, El Rápido Argentino, Pampa, Expreso Liniers, Expreso Cañuelas Destinations • Buenos Aires (3hrs); 8 daily

Dirección de Turismo, Avenida Costanera Juan Manuel de Rosas near Fray F. Martínez @ 421138; open 08:00–13:00

C Accommodation

Hotel Laguna del Monte, Avenida Costanera near J Sardén ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 420687 $H 1 ** Hostería La Antigua Casona, Santos Molina AEFGJLPUV @ 420512 $F 2 A Hospedaje del Jardín, Petracchi 367 near Alem LPS @ 420019 $F 2 Accommodation on RN 3 A Hospedaje California, KM 111 @ 420016 LP ***

a Sport

Laguna del Monte is suitable for kayaking, water-skiing, and fishing. The local fish hatchery restocks the lake every year with 350 000 small fish. Polo • Estancia de las Perdices is located on the Laguna del Monte. Tennis courts and polo fields; offers horse-riding and water sports • Estancia La Atropellada; located 60 km from San Miguel del Monte; this is a traditional estancia from last century. Offers accommodation for eight persons, horse riding including polo lessons, fishing, and a swimming pool; Information and reservations. Buenos Aires: Brasil 353 2nd floor oficina 2 @ (011) 43613308, fax (011) 43615214

D Camping •

Club Deportivo Independiente, J.M. de Rosas 514, hot water, showers, tennis, squash

E Eating out Restaurants • El Mangrullo, Avenida Costanera • El Náutico, Avenida Costanera near Mitre • La Costanera, Costanera near Eva Perón • La Parrillas de Juan, Alem near Petracchi Pizzerías • Don Pancho, H. Yrigoyen 700 • La Mamma Rosa, Petracchi 475

p Sightseeing

• •

Cafeterías and confiterías • Joaquinillo, H. Yrigoyen 731 • La Pileta, Rojas 399 • The Nook, Alem near Petracchi

n Entertainment • •

Laundromat: Laverap, Alem 469 Camping gear: Los Horneros, San Martín 554

Disco El Limite, Videla Dorna 485 Disco New World, Costanera near Aicardi

205

Museo Enrique Uzal, H. Yrigoyen 289 Rancho Histórico de Rosas, Soler corner of Belgrano; open Sat, Sun 14:00–17:00. Was removed from its original location outside town and relocated within the town. Was owned l a s t c e n t u r y b y t h e C a u d illo-Presidente Juan Manuel de Rosas. His gaucho soldiers, known as Colorados del Monte, were organized on this estancia

San Miguel del Monte

PAMPA PROVINCES

SAN NICOLÁS DE LOS ARROYOS

San Nicolás de los Arroyos Population: 120 000 Postal code: 2900 @ area code: (02461) Altitude: sea level Distance from Buenos Aires: 240 km north-west on RN 9

L

ocated on a channel of the Río Paraná opposite the Islas Lechiguanas which form the delta, San Nicolás de los Arroyos is the northernmost town in Buenos Aires Province; it is an industrial town and a major port for the export of grain. It is served by the F C General Bartolomé Mitre railroad. San Nicolás was founded in 1748. Because of its strategic position the town was often the focal point during the political and military struggle of the first years of independence. It was here that General Urquiza and the assembled provincial governors signed in 1853 the Acuerdo de San Nicolás de Arroyo which was the beginning of the national reconstruction. The visitor can see many buildings dating back to last century, including the house where the Acuerdo (agreement) was signed, the monument to the first Argentine naval battle, or have a

traditional gaucho lunch in the Museo Gauchesco Patria y Tradición. The hub of town is Plaza General Mitre. Crossing the Arroyo Yaguaró, one of the many channels of the Río Paraná, by launch you can spend the day or afternoon fishing on Isla Ballesteros and return back the same day or camp out.

A Festivals

• • •

Fundación de San Nicolás: 14th April Conmemoración del Acuerdo de San Nicolás (Festival on the occasion of the Accord of San Nicolás): 31st May Fiesta Santo Patrono San Nicolás de Bari: 6th December

C Accommodation in San Nicolás de los Arroyos Hotels

Colonial, Avenida General Savio 2195 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ El Acuerdo, Francia 7 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ *** San Martín, Italia near Garibaldi ADEFGHJLPSUV @ *** Yaguarón, Mitre 409 ACDEFGHJKLPRSTUVY Fax 428979 @ ** Río, San Martín 115 ADEFGHJLPSUVY @ * Citex, Nación 451 AELPSV @ * San Nicolás, Savio 236 AELPSV Fax 426652 @ * Tony, Nación 627 AEGLPTV @ * Torino, Savio 279 ADEHJLPSTVY @ • Español, Urquiza 35 EHP @ • Micerino, Garibaldi 408 E-mail: vailtrav@cablenet,com.ar @ *** ***

Hospedajes

A Igüeldo, Mitre 321

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To Bus terminal

Key to map E H I T

Telephone Hospital Dirección de Turismo Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 5 7 9 10

Hotel El Acuerdo Hotel Español Hotel Río Hotel San Nicolás

12 Hotel Torino

11 Cafetería Disco Jethro

4 Eating out

9 Sights

2 6 8

Restaurant Club Social Restaurant El Puente Restaurant La Nuit

5 Entertainment 1

3 0 4

Santurario Virgen del Rosario

Services

Rentamóvil

Club de Regatas San Nicolás

207

San Nicolás de los Arroyos

PAMPA PROVINCES B Tourist information •

+IVA and insurance, VW Carat CD $90.00 per day plus tax and insurance)

Dirección de Turismo, Almafuerte 116 @ 421070 fax 423003. Open Mon–Fri from 07:00–13:00

a Sport

•

E Eating out

Restaurants • Avenida, Mitre near Moreno & • • Club Belgrano, Pellegrini 476 • Club Social, Guardias Nacional 87 • Don Eduardo, Mitre 80 • El Encuentro, Pellegrini 148 • El Puente, Urquiza 32 p • La Cantina del Encuentro, Garibaldi • 135 • La Nuit, 9 de Julio 67 • & • San Martín, Italia corner of Garibaldi $X & • San Timoteo, opposite Santuario Virgen del Rosario, $Z Cafeterías • • Astul, Mitre 90 • El Quijote, Mitre 190 • Horly, Mitre 252 • Hotty’s, Nación 230 • Ramos Generales, Nación 235

n Entertainment •

Disco Jethro, Avenida Savio 246

Sightseeing

Museum and archives of the first Argentine naval engagement Museo y Bibliotheca Casa del Acuerdo (Acuerdo House Museum and Library), De la Nación 143. Various historical objects and documents. Open Mon–Fri 15:00–19:00 Sat, Sun 09:00–13:00 and 17:00–21:00 Teatro Municipal Rafael de Aguiar named in honor of the town’s founder, was built in 1908. The sheer size and lavish decor is amazing for a provincial town. The seating capacity is for 1250 persons. The furniture and interior decor came from Vienna, Austria

s Excursions

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Boulevard Morteo near Nación. Rentamovil and Remise Belgrano run colectivo services in town. • Bus companies: Argentina, T.A. Chevallier, La Costera, Tirsa • Buenos Aires (3 hrs): 8 services daily

Tour operators • Melín Viajes y Turismo, Ameghino 46 @ 427310 fax Excursions • Santurario Virgen del Rosario, on the Grounds of Parque General Perón fronting Sarmiento. A Catholic shrine which attracts many pilgrims • The Río Paraná and its channels and islands are within easy reach

U Motoring • •

Golf: Siderurgia Golf Club, Avenida Savio near RP 1001 @ (02461) 421021 ext. 640 Yachting and Sailing: Club de Regatas San Nicolás, Alameda 2 de Marzo near Belgrano. Also tennis courts; restaurant $Y

Service station: A.C.A., RN 9 KM 242 Car rental: Rentamóvil, Francia 4 @ 431800 (Fiat 147TR $50.00 per day

SAN PEDRO

San Pedro Population: 35 000 Postal code: 2930 @ area code: (02329) Distance from Buenos Aires: 159 km north-west on RN 9

San Pedro

208

BUENOS AIRES

S

an Pedro is located on the Laguna San Pedro a few kilometers north of the autopista and RN 9. Its origins go back to 1745 when the Franciscan padres established a monastery. The town started to grow from 1802 onwards. It still has many mansions with large patios from the colonial period. Nowadays San Pedro is an important overseas shipping terminal and has a paper-manufacturing plant. On either side of B. Mitre streets change names. Things to see are the Monasterio San Pedro next to the church, and the Museo Regional.

Pizzerías • Bianco, Mitre 1125 • Don Quijote, Belgrano 930

n Entertainment

A Festivals • •

• •

Día de la Soberanía: 20th November Fiesta de la Rosa y del Durazno (Rose and Apricot Festival): December/January

I Post and telegraph

•

B Tourist information •

Ibiza Disco, Pellegrini 435 Le Club, Belgrano 943

•

Dirección de Turismo, 9 de Julio 134 @ 425234

Post office: Correo Argentino, Arnaldo 200 Telephone: Telecom, Arnaldo near Salta

M Services and facilities

E Eating out

•

Restaurants • Edelweiss, Mitre near Ayacucho • El Patio, Ayacucho 241 • La Posta, San Martín 350 • La Querencia, Avenida 11 de Septiembre 55. Parrilla • La Unión, Pellegrini 951 • Los Amigos, Mitre 1330 • Martín Fierro, Balcarce 55. Parrilla • San Pedro, Bazzano 215 Cafeterías • Gringo Viejo, Obligado 17 • La Perla, Mitre 675 • María, Balcarce 66

Camping and sport equipment: La Tortuga Loca, Mitre 1275

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Gomendio near O. César. • Bus Companies: T.A. Chevallier, Expreso Paraná, El Rápido Argentino • Buenos Aires: daily; 3 hours

U Motoring

•

Service station: A.C.A., corner of 3 de Febrero and Dr D Pellegrini

p Sightseeing

•

Museo Histórico Regional Municipal “Fray Juan María Bottaro” (Brother

C Accommodation in San Pedro Hotels *** *** ** * * *

Esser, Mitre 1335 Fax 425651 Obligado, Mitre near Liniers Fax 424185 de Turismo, Bulevar Paraná 450 Costa Azul, Dr D Pellegrini 55 Marconi, Mitre 1199 Natural, Salta near 3 de Febrero

Hospedajes

A Armengol, Belgrano 1310 A Belgrano, Belgrano 1370

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San Pedro

PAMPA PROVINCES by an Argentinian squadron under the command of General Lucio Mansillo. There is a monolith to mark the battle. Apart from the historical reference it is one of the most picturesque spots on the Paraná river and an excellent dorado and surubí fishing spot. Nearby is Camping Don Antonio

Juan María Bottaro Municipal Regional History Museum)

s Excursions •

Vuelta de Obligado, 19 km north of town on the Río Paraná. Rafael Obligado was a poet who had a small castle here. In 1845 an Anglo-French command tried to force free access to the Paraná river. They were dispelled

SANTA CLARA DEL MAR

Santa Clara Population: 3200 Postal code: 7609 @ area code: (0223) Distance from Buenos Aires: 390 km south on RP 11

S

anta Clara was founded in 1949. The wide beaches coupled with shallow water are ideal for families with small children. In some areas rock formations end abruptly in the sea. Within the city limits are several beaches each with its own facilities such as cafés, tent hire, sunshades and sport equipment. The best beaches are Balneario Mar del Cobo, California, and La Punta; at Playa Franka is a section reserved for topless sunbathers.

C Accommodation in Santa Clara del Mar Cabañas

• Del Sol, Palermo 126 • Pilmayquén, Santos 32 • VIP, RP 11 near Mentón

Hotels * *

California, Punta Lara 217 La Romana, Avenida Acapulco 171

AEGHLPSV AEHKLPV

Hosterías * * * *

Bilbao, Bilbao 44 AEHLPV Brisas, Avenida Costanera near Valencia ADELPSV Marsal, Bilbao near Viña del Mar AELPV Portofino, Avenida Acapulco 346 AEFGHLPSV

@ @ @

4602419 4602769 4602739

@

4602719

@ @ @ @

4602144 4602454 4602731 4602336

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4691091

@

4691046/34

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4691002

Accommodation in Balneario Parque Mar Chiquita Hotels *** * *

Mirador, Fray Luis Beltrán near J.B. Alberdi ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Bariloche, Fray Luis Beltrán AEGHLPSV Mar Chiquita, Estebán Echeverría near Beltrán AELPSV

Accommodation in Mar de Cobo *

Hostería Oásis, Avenida J. M. Cobos AELPSV

Santa Clara

210

BUENOS AIRES A Festivals •

Empresa Costamar, El Rápido del Sud

Windsurf Regatas: December

a Sport

B Tourist information •

•

Secretaría de Turismo, Galería Florida Local 8–10 @ 4602433

D Camping Camping in Balneario Parque Mar Chiquita • Camping Mar Chiquita, Avenida San Martín near Puente @ 4691076; also bungalows and hire of trailers

p Sightseeing

• •

E Eating out

Meals cost from $Y to $X. • Restaurant La Reina, Avenida Acapulco near Bristol • Restaurant Santa Clara del Mar, Avenida Acapulco near Luarca Disco El Morro, Avenida del Arroyo

I Post and telegraph •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Punta Larqa 472

•

S Buses •

Museo Paleontológico Pachamama (Pachamama Palaeontological Museum), Niza 1065. M u s e o d e A r t e s a n í a s L atino-americanas, Selva Negra 549. Open daily 17:00–22:00; small admission. Next door is a restaurant

s Excursions

•

n Entertainment •

Fishing. Most fishing activities are organized by Asociación Club de Pesca La Escollera, Avenida Costanera near Necochea. The best fishing is in Mar Chiquita some 15 km north.

Bus companies: Empresa Atlántida, Empresa El Rápido Argentino, Empresa Costera Criolla, El Cóndor,

•

Esquina de Argúas is a gaucho tavern located near the salt lakes 17 km from Coronel Vidal. It is supposed to be 160 years old, making it one of the oldest pulperías in Argentina. The building is of adobe bricks and the fence of whale bones Near Coronel Vidal is Estancia El Durazno Grande, founded in 1815. This estancia was in 1839 the gathering place of the plotters of the Revolución de los Libres del Sud Mar del Plata is only 18 km south

SANTA TERESITA

Santa Teresita Population: 9200 Postal code: 7107 @ area code: (02246) Altitude: sea level Distance from Buenos Aires: 340 km south on RP 2 then RP 11

S

ince its foundation in 1946, Santa Teresita has become one of Buenos Aires Province’s major seaside resorts. The main attraction is the extensive beaches which stretch from Las Toninas in the south to Mar del Tuyú in the north, and which consist of fine sand with some sea shells. The facilities include excellent hotels, restaurants, and a golf club. The exclusive suburb of Santa Teresita del Monte is located between the seaside and the golf club; streets and roads curve around the hillside giving vistas over the town and the sea. 3 between Calle 32 and Calle 42. On the Plaza at the intersection of

The hub of town with many shops and boutiques is on Calle 2 and Calle 211

Santa Teresita

PAMPA PROVINCES A Festivals

Diagonal 20, Diagonal 21 and Calle 10 is the Paseo del Tango with a feature wall showing tango musicians and a life-size couple in front dancing the tango. The dunes along the beaches have been stabilized with plants and bushes. A replica of Columbus’ discovery ship Santa María serves as confitería and ice-cream parlor.

• • •

February: Grand Golf Tournament (Gran Torneo de Golf Abierto Municipalidad de la Costa (36 holes) March/April: Fiesta Nacional Aniversario de Santa Teresita, also fishing competition At the Triángulo del Tuyú a car race is held in summer

B Tourist information

•

Oficina de Turismo, Calle 42 near 3 @ 420542

C Accommodation in Santa Teresita Hotels

Golf Internacional, Calle 27 near Kennedy ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 430344/420469 *** Monaco, Calle 3–1141 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 420273 *** Apolo, Calle 42 near Diagonal 19 AEFGJLPUV @ 420367 ** Baleares, Calle 34–335 AEFGJLPUV @ 420101 ** Playa, Calle 36–270 AEFGJLPUV @ 420579 ** San Remo, Calle 35–344 AEFGJLPUV @ 420215 ** Solyma, Calle 42 near 2 AEFGJKLPUV @ 420160 ** Sorrento, Calle 37–235 AEFGJLPUV @ 420298 ** Villa del Mar, Calle 2–1130 AEFGJLPUV @ 430600 * Alborada, Calle 3–1144 AELPV @ 420489 * Baron, Calle 34–241 AELPV @ 420235 * Demper, Calle 33–278 AELPV @ 430301/420230 * Ezpeleta, Calle 30–235 AELPV @ 420908 * El Atlántico, Calle 30–255 AELPV @ 420510 * Gran Prix, Calle 39–150 AELPV @ 420593 * Helénico, Calle 36–238 AELPV @ 420251 * La Escama, Calle 36–156 AELPV @ 420234 * Miami, Calle 4–550 AELPV @ 420518 * Riviera, Calle 31–270 AELPV @ 420358/420258 * Royal, Calle 3–525 AELPV @ 420226 * Summer, Calle 33–359 AELPV @ 421006 * Veramar, Calle 44–167 AELPV @ 422029/420222 • Cerdeña, Calle 30–431 AFPT @ 421099 • Turista, Ave 32–464 ADGS @ 430334

****

Hospedajes

A Megaro, Calle 3–1141

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Accommodation in Las Toninas Hotels * *

Marynoi, Calle 1 between 32 and 34 AELPV Venecia, Calle 9–2286 AELPV

Hospedajes

A Souvenir, Calle 1 between 36 and 38 ELPS A Marina, Calle 1–2123 LP

Santa Teresita

212

BUENOS AIRES •

D Camping •

•

Estancia El Carmen, Avenida 23 near Avenida Costanera @ 420220. Also cabins $F 4; $H per caravan Splash, on road to Las Toninas beach near Calle 23 @ 420684; $J 1

• • • • •

E Eating out

Restaurants serve lunch and dinner from $10.00. Cafeterías • Café de la Paz, Calle 2 near 37 • Quitapenas, 32 between 9 and 10 • Rustiko, Calle 2 between 36 and 37 Pizzerías • Huacos, Calle 3 between 32 and 33 • Mister Pizza, Calle 37 between 2 and 3 • Pascualito, Calle 39 between 2 and 3 Restaurants • BC, Calle 2 near 38 • Brisas, Calle 2–639 • Cabaña Tuyú, Calle 32–314 near 3. Seafood • Cerro San Javier, Calle 40–371 • El Fogón Costera Criolla, Calle 32 between 2 and 3 • El Helénico, Calle 36 between 2 and 3 • El Patio del Chango Gauna, Calle 32–282 • El Viento Loco, Costanera near 32. Seafood • Golden Garden, Calle 39 near 2. Shows • Hoyo I, Calle 32 between 2 and 3 • La Casa de la Abuela, Calle 37 near 3 • La Estancia, Calle 38 near 2 • La Estrella, Calle 32–440 between 3 and 4 • La Fontaine, Calle 38 near 3 • La Herradura, Calle 4–401 • La Vaca Loca, Calle 3 near 34 • La Vieja Esquina, Calle 37 near 3 • Los Farolitos, Calle 32–207 • María Dorila, Costanera between 37 and 38 • Quinchito, Calle 31 near 3 • San Miguel, Calle 2 between 34 and 35 • Valentino, Calle 38 between Costanera and 2 • Vera Cruz, Calle 2 between 33 and 34

I Post and telegraph

• •

Post office: Encotesa, Calle 3–969 Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Calle 4–2152

L Financial

• •

Banco de la Provincia, Calle 2–1005. ATM Banco de la Nación, Calle 37–319

M Services and facilities

Beach umbrellas may be hired. Farmacia: Gloriani, Calle 32 between 9 and 10

R Air services

Jorge Newbery airport is near San Bernardo. • S.A.P.S.E. and LAER have flights to and from Buenos Aires. Bookings: Viajes Tuyú @ 420863

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Calle 16 near 35. Long distance bus companies: Chevallier, La Estrella–El Cóndor, El Rápido Argentino, Expreso Córdoba–Mar del Plata, Central Argentino, Almirante Brown, Urquiza. Provincial bus companies: Compañía Argentina de Turismo, El Alba, Costera Criolla, Río de la Plata, Alba de Ajó, Alvarez Hnos. Turismo Patri, Plusmar, Ruta Atlántica, Expreso Carasa, Vosa, Flecha de Oro, Telebus, Transporte Automotor, La Plata S.A., Saestur

a Sport

•

n Entertainment •

Cine Atlántico, Calle 41 between 37 and 38 Cine Yanel, Calle 32 between 3 and 4 Disco Vabieka, Calle 33 between 3 and 4 Disco Voices, Calle 5 between 32 and 33 Disco Look, Calle 2 between 38 and 39 Casablanca, Calle 41 near 16. Dancing

Bingo, Calle 32 near 6

213

Golf Club de Santa Teresita covers 35 ha (87 acres) and has 18 holes. There are also tennis courts, restaurant and a riding school; @ (02246) 420140/420471. On the grounds is also a fresh water spring. Golf tournaments held in January/February

Santa Teresita

PAMPA PROVINCES •

s Excursions

Sightseeing flights: Aeroclub Santa Teresita has flights from Jorge Newbery airport

Tour operators • Tuyú Viajes, Calle 32–473 Local 1 @ 420863 fax

SIERRA DE LA VENTANA

Sierra de la Ventana Postal code: 8168 @ area code: (0291) Altitude: 250 m Distances Distance from Buenos Aires: 484 km south on RN 3 and RP 76 • Distance from Bahía Blanca: 124 km north on RP 33 then 76 •

S

ierra de la Ventana and Villa Arcadia are neighboring towns located on the eastern side of the Sierra de la Ventana on the Río Sauce Grande. Together they constitute a favorite tourist resort, and their mountainous location gives them a temperate climate with cool nights in summer. Most rain falls in spring and summer. The average summer temperature is 20°C (65°F) and in winter 8°C (45°F), with occasional snow. Although not completely forested, large patches have been planted with pine forests.

A Festivals

Before 1850 this area was well and truly Indian territory. Only after the Desert Campaign and the construction of the railroad line to Bahía Blanca was this area opened for European settlement. Indeed the first large landholder was an English company, and it is therefore not surprising to find a golf course here. This mountainous area is a favorite holiday destination, with valleys through which small rivers run. The highest mountain is Cerro Tres Picos. The tourist facilities are good and include hotels, swimming pools, and a golf course. This is also ideal trekking country for most of the year. Accommodation is also available in Villa Ventana, about 40 km north.

Festivals in Pigüé • Fiesta del Reservado: 2nd week in February. For two days gauchos show their horse riding skills, also traditional song and dance festival. Held on the shores of Laguna Las Encanadas

B Tourist information

•

E Eating out Restaurants • Caza de Campo, E. Tornquist • El Establo, Avenida San Martín • El Maitén, Iguazú 105 • Ralihue, Avenida San Martín 307 • Ser, Güemes Eating out in Villa Ventana • Restaurant La Casa de la Griega, Pilla-Huinco

I Post and telegraph

•

Sierra de la Ventana

Dirección de Turismo, Avenida Roca 15 @ 4915032

214

Post office: Correo Argentino, Avenida Roca 175

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3 Accommodation

1 2 3

Cabañas El Dique Hotel Carlitos Hotel Anay Ruca

4 8 12 14 15 16

Hotel Pilla-huinco Hotel Atero Hospedaje La Perlita Hotel Silver Golf Hotel Provincial Hospedaje Argentino

4 Eating out

5

Restaurant El Maitén

215

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0 Services

6 9

Swimming pool Golf Club Sierra de la Ventana 13 Railroad station

Sierra de la Ventana

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Sierra de la Ventana Hotels *** ** *

Silver Golf, Barrio Parque Golf ACDELPRSV E-mail: [email protected]; half board Provincial, Drago 130 near Bahía Blanca Fax 4915025; tennis, casino, golf ADEFGJLMPRSUV Atero, San Martín near Güemes AELPSV Fax @ 4915244

Hospedajes

A Argentino, Avenida Roca A La Perlita, Enrique Morón 94 • Schmidtke Karl, Cnel Suárez

LP LP

Cabañas ****

• • • • •

Ojo de Agua, Ave. San Martín 396 ABCDL Del Golf, Barrio Parque Golf Ecoparque Mepul, on road to Las Carretas El Dique, Galileo Galilei El Pinar, RN 76 KM 217 La Chabela, Avenida Sarmiento

Motels

• Maitén, Iguazú 93

@

4915079

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4915024

$D

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$F

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Accommodation in Villa Arcadia Hotels * * *

Anay Ruca, Avenida Raíces near Punta Alta AELPSV Carlitos, Avenida Coronel Suárez near Punta Alta AELPSV Pilla-Huinco, Raíces 161 near Pilla-Huinco AELPSV

Accommodation in Villa Ventana

A Hospedaje La Península, Golondrina near Cruz del Sur

Cabañas

• Ñuque Mapu, Pilla-Huinco • Pablito, Pilla-Huinco

Accommodation in Pigüé • Saavedra • Espartillar • Goyena

Accommodation on RP 76 *

Hotel El Mirador, KM 226 west of Villa Ventana DEFRS Cabins

Accommodation in Saldungaray A Hospedaje Pichu, Belgrano 136

LPS

Accommodation on nearby estancias

• Estancia Cerro de la Cruz, 5 rooms with full board AFLPR. Tennis

Sierra de la Ventana

216

BUENOS AIRES •

s Excursions

Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Malvinas

Tour operators • Geotur, Avenida San Martín 193 @ 4915186. Sr. Sergio Rodríguez organizes trekking trips into the surrounding mountains and day trips to other locations Excursions • Parque Provincial Ernesto Tornquist (Ernesto Tornquist Provincial Park): 22 km. Inside the park is the Cueva del Toro, a cave 30 m deep. You can climb to the summit and see the 8.5 m wide opening in the rock which gave the whole range its name—ventana means “window”. Inside Cueva de Corpus Christi are preHispanic rock paintings. During World War II part of the crew of the German warship Graf Spee was interned in the nearby hotel, then called the Club Hotel. There is also a trout hatchery in the park • Saldungaray is a little village 9 km south which has preserved to some extent its old-time charm. It grew around the former Fortín Pavón, built in 1883 during the Desert Campaign. The fort has been partly reconstructed. Nearby is the artificial lake Paso de las Piedras suitable for trout-fishing and water sports • The Shrine of Nuestra Señora de Luján is located 7 km west of the town of Saavedra with a backdrop formed by the low chain of the Sierra de Cura Malal. This Catholic shrine attracts thousands of pilgrims on October 12th every year. Saavedra is located 82 km north west of Sierra de la Ventana • Pigüé is a small agricultural town 103 km north. Of interest is the 15 ha (37 acre) Parque Municipal Fortunato Chiappara. Inside the wooded park are camping facilities, swimming pool, and café. Also of interest is the Museo Regional which contains memorabilia of the Conquista del Desierto (“Desert Conquest”) and pre-Colombian artefacts from the archeological site at Los Chilenos

S Buses •

Empresa El Cóndor ° Bahía Blanca: daily services ° Tornquist: daily services • Expreso de La Sierra runs three services daily to Abra de La Ventana, Saldungaray, Villa Ventana and Tornquist ($2.20) • La Estrella runs 2 services daily to Buenos Aires ($25.00; 71 2 hrs) via Bahía Blanca ($5.50) and La Plata Buses from Pigüé The bus terminal is on Avenida Avellaneda 390. • Central Argentino–Ñandú del Sur @ 45966 • La Estrella–El Cóndor @ 42927 • T.A. Chevallier–TUS–Pampa @ 42925

U Motoring •

Y.P.F–A.C.A., Avenida San Martín near Sarmiento

a Sport •

Fishing: Pejerrey fishing in the Río Sauce Grande Golf • Golf Club Sierra de la Ventana, Barrio Parque Golf @ (0291) 4915113. This is an eighteen-hole golf course with clubhouse and a tennis court. The golf course is along a small river Sport in Coronel Pringles Coronel Pringles is located 60 km east • Golf: Club de Pelota (Coronel Pringles)Boulevard near RP 51 @ (02922) 42103/42325 Sport in Coronel Suárez Coronel Suárez is located 85 km north of Sierra de la Ventana on RP 76 and RP 85. Golf • Coronel Suárez Aero Golf Club, Pbro. Mateo Llovera @ (02926) 422270/421717 • Golf and polo: Coronel Suárez Polo Club, Sección Quintas @ (02926) 422016/422547 • Polo: Polo ranch San José; information: Oficina de Turismo Coronel Suárez, Alsina 150 @ (02926) 422742

217

Sierra de la Ventana

PAMPA PROVINCES Trekking • Fuente del Bautismo; waterfall and natural ponds. With tour operator • Cerro Tres Picos; highest elevation in Buenos Aires Province, including Cerro Napostá Chico and Cueva de

•

los Guanacos. Duration 12 hrs with tour operator Garganta del Diablo (“Devil’s Gorge”) including Cerro de la Ventana. 8 hrs with tour operator

TANDIL

Tandil Population: 95 000 Postal code: 7000 @ area code: (02293) Altitude: 178 m Distances From Buenos Aires: 390 km south on RN 3 then RP 30 • From Mar del Plata: 169 km north-west on RP 226 •

T

andil is located in a fertile valley some 170 km inland in the Sierra de Tandil, a pre-Cambrian granite ridge whose highest point is Cerro La Blanca at 500 m. Tandil is named after an Indian chief who dominated this region in the nineteenth century. Nowadays it is a thriving inland center with a well-known seat of learning, the Escuela Agrotecnica which specializes in farm sciences and technology, 8 km from the town center.

Key to map D E I $

Correo Argentino Telefónica de Argentina Dirección Municipal de Turismo Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires

3 Accommodation 6 9 12 13 15 18 21 25 26 29 32

Hotel Cristal Hospedaje Kaiku Hotel Libertador Hospedaje Torino Hospedaje Helios Hotel Austral Hotel Centro Hotel Crillón Hotel Plaza Hotel Gran Roma Hostería Hostal de la Sierra

Tandil

Tandil is a center of the dairy industry. The town has excellent tourist facilities with first-class hotels, restaurants and a good night life. It is a good spot to relax or make a stopover on the way to the coast or further south. Many possibilities to

34 Hospedaje Monza

4 Eating out 3 7

8 14 16 17 19 20 22 24 27 28 31 33

Restaurant Al Ver Verás Restaurant Taberna de Manolo Cafetería Chiappas Pizzería Canternic Restaurant La Cassetta Pizzería Don Lino Cafetería Scotch Restaurant Años Locos Cafetería Antique Restaurant El Estribo Pizzería El Argentino Restaurant La Farola Restaurant Rancho Chico Restaurant Hermitage

218

5 Entertainment 5

Disco Woody

7 Tour operators and car rental 4 Localiza 23 Jonestur

9 Sights

10 Museo Fuerte Independencia 11 Museo Rural 30 Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes

0 Services 1 2

Agrupación Nido de Condores Grupo Compartir

BUENOS AIRES D Camping

hike in the nearby sierras or stay on a tourist ranch around town.

•

Camping Municipal Pinar de la Sierra: On the road to the Dique del Fuerte. Take yellow bus 500

A Festivals •

Colorful Holy Week ceremonies attract many visitors

E Eating out Cafeterías • Antique, General Rodríguez 689 • Chiappas, Mitre 760 • Olivia, 9 de Julio 725 • Scotch, 9 de Julio 760

B Tourist information •

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, 9 de Julio 555 @ 432073

Pizzerías • Canternic, General Rodríguez 765 • Don Lino, Sarmiento 680 To Azul and Olavarría

ARTIGAS

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Tandil

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Tandil Apart Hotels

• Los Cedros, Alvear 377 • Roberto Galan, Las Heras 445

ABCGLSU

@ @

446663 422682

• de las Sierras, Avenida Alejandro Fleming 951

@

420332

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Hostal de la Sierra, Avellaneda 931 ACDEFGHJKLPSTUVY @ 422330 Posada de los Pájaros, Avenida Don Bosco near C Namuncurá Fax 432013 AEFGJLPUV @ 431108

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Cabañas Hotels *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** * * * *

Hostal de la Sierra del Tandil, Ave. Avellaneda 941 Libertador, Mitre 545 ACDEFGHJKLPSTUVY Plaza, Gral. Pinto 438 ACDEFGHJKLPSTUVY Austral, 9 de Julio 725 ADEFGJLPTUVY Crillón, San Martín 455 AEFGHJLPSUV Francia, Colón 1600 AEFGHJLPUV Hermitage, Avellaneda 301 AEFGHJLPSUV Fax @ 423987 Torino, Sarmiento 502 ALPS Centro, Sarmiento 591 AEHLPSV Cristal, General Rodríguez 871 AELPV Fax 425951 Ro Che Hil, General Rodríguez 1098/1100 AELPSV Gran Roma, L.N. Alem 452 AEHLPV

Hosterías *** **

Hospedajes A A A A A A •

Helios, General Rodríguez 783 Italy, Espora near Venezuela Kaiku, Mitre 902 Monza, Avellaneda 734 Savoy, L.N. Alem near Mitre Turista, 14 de Julio 60 Rivadavia, Rivadavia 179

LP LP HLP LP LPS AFGHLPST

Accommodation on RN 226 Hotels

• Hostal el Paraíso de la Sierra KM 161.5

•

•

El Argentino, General Rodríguez 560 Restaurants • Al Ver Verás, L.N. Alem 1112. Parrilla • Años Locos, L.N. Alem 785. Parilla • El Estribo, General San Martín 750 • El Nuevo Don José, Monseñor D’Andrea 269 • Hermitage, Avenida Avellaneda 305 • La Cassetta, Sarmiento 622 • La Farola, General Pinto 681 • Rancho Chico, General Rodríguez 102. Parrilla

Tandil

•

@ @ @ @ @ @ @

426747 429923 423114 430579 425602 422626 fax 427792

@

448580

Taberna de Manolo, General Rodríguez 869 Taiwan, General Rodríguez 800

n Entertainment

• • • • •

220

Casino, Avenida Buzón block 400. Located above the bus terminal; open Wed–Mon from 21:00–02:00 Disco Lafitte, 9 de Julio near Avenida España Disco Now, Avenida Alvear 380. Bar Disco Woody, Rodríguez 887 Disco Yamó, Avenida Alvear 410

BUENOS AIRES S Buses from Tandil

The bus terminal is on Avenida Vargas between Italia and Portugal. Bus companies • Autotransporte San Juan–Mar del Plata @ 425275. • El Pampa ° La Plata • El Rápido SRL @ 442770 • El Rápido Argentino ° Mar del Plata via Balcarce ° Junín via Azul, San Carlos de Bolívar, Saladillo, 25 de Mayo, and Bragado ° Trenque Lauquen, Junín, 9 de Julio, and Pehuajó • El Pampa S.A. @ 424249, • Empresa Costera Criolla @ 425970 • Expreso Córdoba-Mar del Plata and T.A.C. @ 425275 • Expreso Córdoba-Mar del Plata @ 425275 • Río Paraná @ 414812 ° Bahía Blanca via Juárez, Adolfo Gonzáles Chaves, Dorrego, Tres Arroyos, and Punta Alta; daily services ° La Plata via Ayacucho, General Belgrano, Ranchos, Brandsen ° Mar del Plata via Balcarce; daily services ° Villa Gesell via Coronel Vidal, Madariaga, andPinamar; daily services • TIRSA @ 425275 Long-distance services • • • • • •

Destination Buenos Aires Córdoba

Fares $15.00

Mendoza Rosario San Juan Santa Rosa (La Pampa)

Services 10 daily

Duration Company 6 hrs La Estrella, Don Otto Expreso Córdoba- Mar delPlata, TUS Expreso Jocolí, T.A.C. Tirsa Autotransporte San Juan

1 daily

El Rápido Argentino

I Post and telegraph • •

Car rental • Localiza, Avenida España 545

Post office: Correo Argentino, 9 de Julio 455 Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, General Rodríguez 630

a Sport

•

L Financial •

•

Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires, General Pinto 699 @ 424760 Jonestur, General San Martín 698 @ 431838

•

M Services and facilities •

p Sightseeing

Hire of mountain bikes: Uriburu 1488 @ 428669

•

U Motoring •

Aero Club de Tandil y Club de Planeadores. sightseeing flights $15.00 per 20 minutes; also hang gliding Golf: Tandil Golf Club, Access RN 226 near Calle Colombia 15 blocks from town center on right hand side; @ (02293) 426075. Blue bus # 503

Service station: A.C.A., General Rodríguez near Belgrano

221

Museo “Fuerte Independencia, 4 de Abril 854. The museum complex used to be the actual fort. Exhibits show what it was like when it was operating as a fort. Open Tues–Sun 14:30–18:30. Take yellow bus 500

Tandil

PAMPA PROVINCES •

•

Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes (Municipal Fine Arts Museum), Chacabuco 367. Open Tues–Sun 17:00–20:00 Museo Rural (Rural Museum), Chacabuco 764. Contains an archeological collection of more than 4000 pieces; also sculptures by the artist Carlos A. Allende

•

•

s Excursions Tour operators and outdoor guides • Barbini Viajes y Turismo, Maipú 1375 @ 428612. Horse-riding, parachuting, sightseeing flights, hang-gliding • Grupo Compartir, Las Heras 346 @ 425986. Canoeing, trekking, climbing all in the Tandil area • Agrupación Nido de Condores, Necochea 166 @ 426519. Excursions, trekking and mountain biking in the Sierras de Tandil Excursions • Dique del Fuerte: Artificial lake 2 km from town center. Club de Pesca y Remo has a camping ground here;

• •

•

Club Náutico has a clubhouse here. Take yellow bus 500 Cerro El Calvario: Lourdes Grotto and Santa Gemma chapel; on top of the hill is an enormous Cross made of marble. The Via Crucis winds uphill through a forest of eucalyptus and olive trees; 1 km from town center. Take white bus 502 Reserva Natural Sierra del Tigre: Follow Avenida Don Bosco and turn right into Calle Suiza Cerro La Movediza (“Moving Stone Hill”) Rancho El Centinela, 5 km from town center @ 21985. A fully automated dairy farm with cheese-making facilities. Has a large botanical garden with exotic plants and fruit trees. Camping, hot water, showers, and toilets El Rancho de Popy, a 350 ha (864 acre) farm in the middle of the Sierra de Tandil. Pine forests and lakes on the property. Walks on trails through the mountains. One cabin for six persons. For information @ 423071

TIGRE

Tigre Postal code: 1648 @ area code: (011) Altitude: Sea level Distance from Buenos Aires: 32 km north-west on RP 27

L

ocated on the banks of the Río Luján near its mouth into the Río de la Plata, this is the starting point for excursions into the channels of the Río Paraná delta and home of numerous sporting clubs. There are also ferries to the town of Carmelo in Uruguay. Its close links with naval activity is testified by two naval museums. There are direct buses and two railway lines linking it to the center of Buenos Aires. Avoid the morning rush hour as many commute to work in Buenos Aires.

B Tourist information

There are a few hotels in town, but on the islands in the Paraná delta are so-called hosterías which although mainly eating places also offer lodgings, but not of a high standard.

•

D Camping

• •

Tigre

Ente Municipal de Turismo, Lavalle near Fernández @ 47492429

222

El Alcázar, Canal Sarmiento near junction with Río Luján El Zorzal, Río Luján east of Canal Caraguata junction

BUENOS AIRES C Accommodation in Tigre

• Casa de Familia, Montes de Oca 64 • Casa de Familia, Lavalle 557 • Hotel El Ancla, Lavalle 909

@ @ @

47494228 47492499 47492767

Accommodation in the Río Paraná delta These hosterías can only be reached by ferries. All hosterías serve meals. Hosterías @ 47280033 • Aeronavegantes, Arroyo Capachay @ 47314526 • Alpenhaus, Arroyo Rama Negra near Río Capitán • Atelier, Río Capitán near junction with Río Paraná de las Palmas @ 47280043 @ 47280053 • Bosque de Bohemia, Canal Antequera @ 47280557 • Cruz Alta, Río Paraná de las Palmas • Cruz Colorada, Canal Cruz Colorada near Río Paraná de las Palmas @ 47490537 • El Paraíso de María, north shore of Río Luján near canal Caraguatá @ 47280577 @ 47280752 • L’Marangatu, Río San Antonio near Canal Sabalos @ 47490987 • Ischia, Canal Espora near Angostura @ 47490987 • La Manuelita, Canal Espera • Las Rosas, Canal Sarmiento @ 47280114 • Río Hotel Laura, Paraná de las Palmas @ 47493898 • Llao Llao, Canal Angostura near junction with Canal Espora @ 4728033 • Tropezón, Río Paraná de las Palmas near Canal de la Serna

• •

E Eating out Restaurants • Borravino, Cazón near Bourdieu • Bristol II, Liniers 100 • Café No “C” • Chapeleo, Paseo Victorica 874 • Club Nahuel, Lavalle 235 • Costa Norte, Río Luján on North bank • Don Manuel, Paseo Victorica 290 • Don Ramón, Paseo Victorica 412 • El Tío, Paseo Victorica 202 • La Casa de Marcelo, Paseo Victorica 992 • La Casona de los Amigos, Enciso 1579 • Lo de Negri, Sarmiento 3 in the grounds of the Puerto de Frutos • Mi Esquina, Paseo Victorica 400 • Nuevo Timón, Paseo Victorica 46 • Nuevo Tío, Paseo Victorica 999 • Palace, Avenida Cazón 1519 • Toc-Toc, Paseo Victorica 454 • Y a Mi Qué, Paseo Victorica 134 Restaurants in the Delta • Gato Blanco, Río Capitán • La Riviera, Canal Abra Vieja • Manu Kai, Río San Antonio near Río de la Plata

Masmor, Canal Abra Vieja Paso del Toro, Río Capitán

S Buses

Bus No 60 goes to Buenos Aires.

T Trains

Estación Terminal de Tigre of the railroad to Retiro station is on Avenida de Las Naciones Unidas corner of Avenida Cazón.

Q Border crossing

Ferries depart daily from Cacciola Viajes Terminal Internacional at Lavalle 520 for Carmelo in Uruguay. Argentine passport control is here.

# Water transport River tours • Cacciola Viajes y Turismo, Puerto de Tigre, Lavalle 520 @ 47490931/2369 fax; excursions to Isla Martín García • Catamaranes Interisleña, Lavalle 499 @ 47310261/62/63/64; services through the Río Paraná delta

223

Tigre

PAMPA PROVINCES To Belén de Escobar 1

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To Buenos Aires

•

Mon–Fri 13:00–16:00, weekends 13:00–17:00, duration 11 2 hrs Sturla @ Cía, Estación Fluvial Tigre local 10 @ 47311749. Trips through the Paraná delta Mon–Sat 16:00 Sun 15:00, duration 11 2 hrs.

Sport in Benavídez Benavídez is located 12 km west of Tigre; postal code: 1621. • Club Newman, RN 9 KM 39.5 @ (02327) 481056/481296. Golf • Lagunitas Golf Club, RP 27 KM 11 Curva Banco Nación @ 47470677/44402375 Sport in Escobar Escobar is located 24 km west of Tigre on RN 9. • Náutico Escobar Country Club, Avenida Kennedy El Cazador @ (02321) 421731. Golf

a Sport • •

The Tigre boat club, founded in 1888, is open for limited periods to British or American visitors for a small fee Golf: Club Náutico Hacoaj RP 27 near G. Galilei @ 7477440

Tigre

224

BUENOS AIRES Key to map A

Parroquia Nuestra Señora de la Inmaculada Concepción Municipalidad (Town hall) Ente Municipal de Turismo Bus terminal

C I T

3 Accommodation

20 Hospedaje Casa de Familia 23 Hospedaje Casa de Familia

4 Eating out 1 2

Restaurant Bristol II Restaurant La Casa de Marcelo Restaurant Nuevo Tío Tigre Boat Club

3 4

5 8 9 12 13 14 15 17 18 19 25 26 27 28 30

Restaurant Chapeleo Restaurant Toc-Toc Restaurant Don Ramón Restaurant Mi Esquina Restaurant Don Manuel Restaurant El Tío Restaurant Costa Norte Restaurant Y a mi qué Restaurant Nuevo Timón Restaurant Club Nahuel Restaurant La Casona de los Amigos Restaurant Café No “C” Restaurant Palace Restaurant Borravino Restaurant Lo de Negri

9 Sights 6

Museo Naval de la Nación

p Sightseeing •

•

•

7 10 11 16 29

Museo Sarmiento de la Reconquista Antigua Aduana Museo Histórico de la Prefectura Naval Argentina Amacén Faggionato Puerto de Frutos

0 Services

21 Estación Terminal de Tigre of the FGBM 22 Estación Fluvial Tigre, Cacciola Viajes y Turismo and Catamaranes Interisleña, and Sturla & Cia, 24 Tren de la Costa

Liniers 818. On exhibit are pieces and documents relating to the English invasions during the Napoleonic Wars. Open Wed– Fri 10:00–18:00 and Sat, Sun 14:00–18:00

Museo Histórico de la Prefectura Naval Argentina (Historic Museum of the Argentine Naval Prefecture), Liniers 1264. In six rooms are displayed navy uniforms and diving gear and one hall is dedicated to the history of the Argentine Navy. Open Sat, Sun 10:00–12:00 and 14:00–18:00 Museo Naval de la Nación (National Naval Museum), Victoria 602. On exhibit are scale models of former and present naval ships, busts and pictures of naval heroes, weapons, navigational instruments, and maps. Open Mon–Thurs 08:00–12:30 and Sat, Sun 10:00–18:30 Museo Sarmiento de la Reconquista (Sarmiento Reconquest Museum),

s Excursions

•

Parque de la Costa: This tourist complex operates a railroad line along the Río de la Plata to Olivos north of Buenos Aires, as well as catamarans in the delta. The starting point for the Tren de la Costa is the Estación Terminal Delta near the junction of the Río Tigre into the Río Luján near Montes de Oca. Inside the park is a giant screen used to show films. Admission $20.00 for adults and $12.00 for children

TRES ARROYOS

Tres Arroyos Population: 40 000 Postal code: 7500 @ area code: (02983) Distances • From Buenos Aires: 515 km south on RN 3 • From Bahía Blanca: 195 km east on RN 3

L

ocated inland on the Río Claromecó, Tres Arroyos was founded in 1884. Many of the townsfolk are of Dutch descent. Cattle and wheat are the backbone of the district’s economy. Tres Arroyos is a convenient stopover on the 225

Tres Arroyos

PAMPA PROVINCES way to the beach resorts of Claromecó, Punta Desnudez, and Reta. The facilities of the last two are included here under their respective headings. Punta Desnudez (also called Orense) is located 80 km east of Tres Arroyos; @ area code: (02982); reached on RP 228 and RP 73, the latter being a dirt road. This is a fledgling seaside resort with only one hotel; this is the ideal place for those who want to escape the hustle and bustle of the larger Atlantic seaside resorts. Take the Lobimar bus in Tres Arroyos. Reta is located 77 km south of Tres Arroyos in a heavily wooded area. @ area code: (02982); reached on RN 3 and then on RP 72 which is partly a dirt road. It also is a developing seaside resort with several hotels, camping, and discos. Take bus La Primera Dorreguense in Tres Arroyos. The best fishing spots are at Segundo Médano. There is pejerrey

fishing in Río Quequén Salado; the locals also organize deep-sea fishing cruises.

B Tourist information

• •

Dirección de Turismo, Brandsen 181 @ 427091/92 fax 431648 Delegación A.C.A, Colón near Lavalle @ 427049

Tourist information in Reta • Oficina de Turismo, Calle 29 near 50 @ (02982) 490012

D Camping Camping in Reta • Camping Martín Reta, Avenida Stella Maris near 54.; $J 1

E Eating out Cafeterías • Aristóbulo, 9 de Julio 45 • La Perla, Avenida Moreno 167 Parrillas • El Rincón de Carlos, H. Yrigoyen 370 • Manhattan, Alsina 158 • Troppo, Avenida Moreno 121

C Accommodation in Tres Arroyos Hotels ****

Parque, Pellegrini 23

Alfil, Rivadavia 142 *** San Jorge, J. Ingenieros 101 * Hostería Andrea, Istilart 228 * La Catalana, Maipú 187 • Petit Hotel, Alsina 1567 ***

ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ ADEKPSV @ @ @

Residenciales

B Hostería Plaza, Chacabuco 440

Accommodation in Punta Desnudez • Hotel Bahía Punta Desnudez

431360 432100 427010 426214 431353 424318

@

427083

@

420264

$H

2

@

(02983) 490064

@ @

$F (02983) 490006 $F (02983) 490048

2 2

@

(02983) 490018

Accommodation in Reta Hotels • • • •

Che Tango, Calle 44 near 27 Los Alamos, Calle 28 near 49 Pergamino, Calle 29 near 58 full board San Sebastián, Avenida Stella Maris near 52

Departamentos

• Santa Rosa, Calle 25 near 48

Tres Arroyos

226

BUENOS AIRES •

Pizzerías • Bristol Center II, Larrea near Pringles • Ciao, Maipú 80 • Don Peppone, Colón near Lavalle Restaurants • Austral, Caseros near RN 3 • El Reloj, Maipú 1460 • Nueva Onda, Colón near P.N. Carrera • La Tuerca, Alsina 560 Eating out in Reta • Restaurant Don Ernesto, Calle 48 near 25 • Restaurant El Fogón, Calle 48 near 25 • Restaurant Yanqui–Hue, Calle 31 near 46

Empresa Detroit @ 426335: to Claromecó • Empresa La Primera Dorreguense @ 426335: to Reta • La Estrella @ 423171, Plusmar @ 427399: to Buenos Aires ( 9 hrs); 7 daily • La Estrella–El Cóndor: to Buenos Aires and Bahía Blanca @ (02983) 423171 • Plusmar: to Buenos Aires and Bahía Blanca Buses from Reta The bus terminal is on Avenida Stella Maris near 52 @ 490048. • Empresa Abel y Marcial García runs direct buses to and from Buenos Aires

Eating out in Punta Desnudez • Restaurant La Taberna de Huinca, Avenida Los Aromos near Los Eucaliptos

•

U Motoring a Sport

•

n Entertainment

• Timoteo Pub, Pellegrini 34 Entertainment in Reta • Disco Brujas, Calle 42 between 17 and 19 • Disco Vavieka, Calle 46 between 31 and 33 Entertainment in Punta Desnudez • Confitería Dunas

Golf: Tres Arroyos Golf Club, Juan B. Justo 200 @ (02983) 422781/422075

p Sightseeing

•

Museo José A. Mulazzi (José A. Mulazzi Museum). On exhibit are archeological objects found in the vicinity

s Excursions Tour operators • Cambex, Maipú 37 @ 431383 • Top Turismo, Avenida Moreno 525 @ 431390 • Claromecó: Beach, 65 km south on RP 73. See Claromecó on page 129 Excursions from Punta Desnudez • In the nineteenth century two forts were built on the Arroyo Cristiano Muerte to safeguard the southern limit of European advancement. This was the place of some confrontation between the Argentine Army and indigenous tribes. It can only be reached with 4WD vehicles along the beach • Salto de Julián: Some 11 km south on a small protected beach. It can only be reached with 4WD vehicles along the beach

I Post and telegraph •

Post office: Correo de Argentina, Maipú 276 • Telephone: Public telephone, Maipú 274 Post and telegraph in Reta • Post Office: Correo de Argentina, Calle 50 between 35 and 37

L Financial •

Service station: A.C.A., Colón near Lavalle

Banco Provincial de Buenos Aires, Colón near H. Yrigoyen

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Avenida San Martín 1403 @ 423171 with restaurant, café, and clean rest rooms. • Empresa Lobimar and Empresa Yanacone @ 426335: to Punta Desnudez • Empresa Pampas: regular services to Bahía Blanca and Mar del Plata

227

Tres Arroyos

PAMPA PROVINCES

VILLA GESELL

Villa Gesell Population: 15 000 Postal code: 7165 @ area code: (02255) Distances From Buenos Aires: 400 km south on RN 1 then Ruta 2 and RN 74 • From Mar Del Plata: 130 km northward on RP 11 •

V

illa Gesell owes its existence to the doggedness of a German immigrant who from 1931 onwards planted thousands of pine and eucalyptus trees in the area to stabilize the shifting sand dunes. After many setbacks he succeeded, and Villa Gesell is now a very popular beach resort. The dunes to the north and south have partially given way to pine forests now, and there are some camping facilities. The sandy beach extends for 62 km. •

The facilities include a first class golf course, excellent hotels and restaurants and a vibrant night life. There are good bus and air connections to the rest of the country. When coming by train alight in General Madariaga 45 km east of town. The water temperature in summer is 25°C (75°F) and in winter 10°C (50°F). Getting around is easy: the north–south streets are called Avenidas and the east–west ones are called Paseos. Mar de las Pampas is a small beach resort some 13 km south of Villa Gesell with one hostería; @ code: 0255. The beaches are forested. There are regular local buses.

D Camping

The distance of each camping ground to the beach is given in meters after the address. • Africa, Avenida Buenos Aires and Circunvalación, 1700 @ 468507. Restaurant • Autocamping Mar Azul, Ruta Interbalnearia KM 11, just off the roundabout outside Villa Gesell. Restaurant • California, Avenida Buenos Aires near Avenida Circunvalación, 1700 m @ 468346 • Caravan, Avenida Circunvalación near Paseo 101, 1400 m @ 468259; restaurant; open December/February • Casablanca, Avenida 3, south of the town center, 100 m. Restaurant; open all year • El Pinar, Alameda 214 near Avenida Buenos Aires, 1400 m @ 468219 • Mar Dorado, Avenida 3, south of the town center, 100 m. Restaurant; open all year

A Festivals • • •

Pineapple festival: July December 8th: Fiesta de la Inmaculada Concepción February: Election of the Summer Queen

E Eating out

B Tourist information •

•

Villa Gesell; Web page: www.gesell. com.ar

International cuisine Dirección de Turismo, Avenida 3–820 Meals cost from $Y. @ 463055 fax; Web page: turisRestaurants [email protected] • Bocaccio, Avenida 3 near Paseo 125 & Información Turística Norte, • El Candil, Avenida 3 near Paseo 143 Avenida Buenos Aires near Paseo del Golf @ 468596

Villa Gesell

228

BUENOS AIRES VILLA GESELL BOULEVARD GESELL

AVE. 11

AVE. 10

AVE. 9

AV E. 8

AV E. 7

AV E. 6

To Mar Azul

AV E. 5

C

AV E. 4 To T

I E

AV E. 3

$ 11

$

PA S E

06

O 105

EO 1

MAR ARGENTINO

PA S

PASEO 109

1

PA SE O 110

PA SE O 11

PASE O 112

PASE O 113

PASEO 114

AVE. 1

PASEO 107

PASE O 108

AVE. 2

To Pinamar

D

C

Municipalidad

D

Correo Argentino

E

Telefónica

I

Información Turística

$

Money Exchange

T

Bus terminal Entertainment

& • • • • • • •

El Zamorano, Paseo 104 near Avenida 3 La Cabaña, Avenida 3 near Paseo 119 La Canasta, Avenida 3 (between Paseo 102 and 104) Samoana, Avenida 3 near Paseo 102 Arturito, Avenida 3 (between Paseo 126 and Paseo 127). Parrilla Club Deportivo Español, Avenida Buenos Aires (between Avenida 3 and Avenida 4). Parrilla Doña Julia, Avenida 5 (between & Avenida 105 and Avenida 106). Parrilla

229

• • • • • •

El Casco, Avenida Buenos Aires near Alameda 204. Parrilla El Rincón de Fermín, Paseo 105 near Avenida 2. Parrilla El Establo, Avenida 3 (between Avenida Buenos Aires and Avenida 102). Parrilla El Estribo, Avenida Buenos Aires near Alameda 203 La Jirafa Azul, Avenida 3 near Paseo 102 La Taberna de Don Ramón, Avenida 3 near Paseo 124

Villa Gesell

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Villa Gesell Hotels open all year **** *** *** ***

&

** * * * *

Bahía Club de Playa, Avenida 1–855 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 462838 Apolo, Paseo 104 near Avenida 2 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 468761 Merimar, Paseo 107 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 462243 Tequendama, Paseo 109 near Avenida 1, on beach front @ 462829 Fax 462866 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Bella Vista, Paseo 114 near Avenida 1 AEFGJLPUV @ 462293 Cantábrico, Paseo 102 near Avenida 2 AELPSV @ 462835 Colón, Avenida 4 near Paseo 104 AELPV @ 462310 Royal, Avenida 3 between Paseo 110 and Paseo 110 bis AELPV @ 462411 Silmar, Avenida 3 between Paseo 137 and Paseo 138 AELPV @ 466065

$C $D

2 2

$E

2

$E 2 $F/G 2 $F/G 2 $F/G 2 $F/G 2

Hotels open October–April **** **** **** **** *** *** ** *

ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 463165 Delfín Azul, Paseo 104 between Avenida 4 and Avenida 5 @ 462521 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Gran Internacional, Paseo 103 near Avenida 1 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 468672 Terrazas Club, Paseo 104 near Avenida 1 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 462181 Palace, Alameda 203 near Avenida Buenos Aires ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 468369 Riviera, Avenida 1 near Paseo 107 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 462217 Abetaia, Avenida 5 between Paseos 104 and 105 AEFGJLPSUV @ 462454 Gran Chalet, Paseo 105 between Avenida 4 and Avenida 5 AELPV @ 462913 Coliseo, Avenida 1 near Paseo 107

$C $D

2 2

$C

2

$C

2

$D $E

2 2

$E

2

$F/G 2

Hotels open December–April *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** **

Atlántico, Avenida 1 near Paseo 105 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 462561 Capri, Paseo 108 between Avenida 1 and Avenida 2 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 462234 Tejas Rojas, Paseo 108 near Avenida 1 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 462274/462565 Topaco, Paseo 104 near Avenida 1 bis ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 462020/468775 Adriático, Alameda 202 near Avenida Buenos Aires AEFGJLPUV @ 468358 Augusta, Avenida 2 between Paseo 108 and Paseo 109 AEFGJLPUV @ 462366 Belvedere, Avenida Buenos Aires between Paseo 105 and Paseo 106 AEFGJLPUV @ 468399 Cervantes, Avenida 3 near Paseo 120 AEFGJLPUV @ 462435 de Poi, Paseo 142 between Avenida 3 and Avenida 4 AEFGJLPSUV @ 466031 Don Carlos, Avenida 3 near Paseo 102 AEFGJLPUV @ 462398 Horizonte, Avenida 1 near Paseo 119 AEFGJLPUV @ 462294 Ispra, Paseo 109 near beach front AEFGJLPUV @ 462391 Kaikén, Avenida 2 near Paseo 121 AEFGJLPUV @ 462791 Lincoln, Avenida 1 near Paseo 103 AEFGJLPUV @ 468769 Mallorca, Paseo 134 between Avenida 2 and Avenida 3 AEFGJLPUV @ 466163

Villa Gesell

230

$E

2

$D $D $D

2 2 2

$E

2

$E

2

$E $E

2 2

$F/G $E $E $E $F/G $E

2 2 2 2 2 2

$E

2

BUENOS AIRES Accommodation in Villa Gesell — continued ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * * * * * * *

Mamajuma, Paseo 111 AEFGJLPUV Marina, Avenida 2 near Paseo 108 AEFGJLPUV Massa, Avenida 1 between Paseo 107 and Paseo 108 AEFGJLPSUV Romadrid, Avenida 1 near Avenida Buenos Aires AEFGJLPUV Sahara, Paseo 112 between Avenida 1 and Avenida 3 AEFGJLPUV Silvana, Avenida 3 between Paseo 111 and Paseo 112 AEFGJLPUV Venezia, Avenida 1 between 107/108 AEFGJLPUV Vesubio, Avenida 4 between Paseo 112 and Paseo 113 AEFGJLPUV Albatros, Paseo 141 bis between Avenida 3 and Avenida 4 AELPV Arenas, Avenida 2 near Paseo 115 AELPV Barracuda, Paseo 121, on beach front AELPV Bero, Avenida 4 near Paseo 141 AELPV Cocco’s, Avenida 1 between Paseo 110 and Paseo 111 AELPV Gran Mar, Avenida 1 between Paseos 119 and 120 AELPV Maracas, Avenida 1 near Paseo 103 AELPV Pourrally, Avenida 3 near Paseo 134 AELPV Quetrihue, Paseo 141 between Avenida 3 and Avenida 4 AELPV Victoria, Avenida 3 between Paseo 114 and Paseo 115 AELPV

@ @

463106 462228

$E $E

2 2

@

462226

$E

2

@

468368

$E

2

@

462208

$E

2

@ @

462597 462231

$E $E

2 2

@

462748

$E

2

@ @ @ @

466179 462345 463260 466077

$F/G $F/G $F/G $F/G

2 2 2 2

@

462580

$F/G 2

@ @ @

462083 468779 466160

$H 2 $F/G 2 $F/G 2

@

466476

$F/G 2

@

462775

$F/G 2

Hotels open December–March *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * *

Cap Arcona, Avenida 1 between Paseo 117 and Paseo 118 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 462209 Danubio, Paseo 105 between Avenida 2 and 3 AEFGJLPUV @ 462328 El Duri, Paseo 116 between Avenida 2 and Avenida 3 AEFGJLPUV @ 462551 Internacional, Paseo 103 AEFGJLPUV @ 468747 Norte, Alameda 205 near Calle 305 AEFGJLPUV @ 468041 Sayonara, Avenida 2 near Paseo 119 AEFGJLPUV @ 462619 Tamanacos, Paseo 103 bis between Avenida 1 and the beach front AEFGJLPUV @ 468753 Verona, Avenida 1 near Paseo 105 AEFGJLPSUV @ 462465 Lilian, Avenida 3 between Paseo 114 and Paseo 115 AELPV @ 462316 Neptuno, Avenida 3 between Paseo 127 and Paseo 128 AELPV @ 462376 Sekand, Avenida 1 between Paseo 116 and Paseo 117 AELPSV @ 462036

$D

2

$E

2

$E $E $E $E

2 2 2 2

$E $E

2 2

$F/G 2 $F/G 2 $F/G 2

Hosterías open all year *** *** *

Actinia, Avenida 3 between Paseo 120 and 121 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ El Velero, Avenida 3–310 between Paseos 102 and Paseo 104 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Mar Azul, Avenida 4–648 AELPSV @

231

463103

$G

2

462256 462457

$D $G

2 2

Villa Gesell

PAMPA PROVINCES Accommodation in Villa Gesell — continued Hosterías open October–April *

Aloha, Paseo 104 between Avenida 1 and Avenida 2 AELPV

Hosterías open December–April *** ** ** **

Tirol, Avenida 2 near Paseo 110

ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY

Alpina, Calle 307–609 AEFGJLPUV Bamba, Paseo 108 near Avenida 1 AEFGJLPUV City Mar, Paseo 119 near Avenida 1 AEFGJLPUV

Hosterías open January–April **

Flor de Lis, Avenida 4 near Paseo 104 AEFGJLPUV

Hospedajes

A Antonio, Avenida 4 near Paseos 104 LP A Arglahu, Avenida 5 near Paseos 104 LP A Ceferino, Paseo 117 between Avenidas 2 and 3 Open all year LPS A Odisea, Avenida 1 near Paseo 119 Open January/February LP

@

468795

$F/G 2

@ @ @ @

462011 468066 462681 462348

$F $F $H $G

2 2 1 2

@

462529

$E

2

@ @

462246 462377

$I $H

1 2

@

462502

$H

1

@

462055

$H

1

@

469538

$E

2

Accommodation in Mar de las Pampas ***

Hostería Mapuche, Juez Repetto near R Peñaloza ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

•

Los Sobrinos, Avenida 4 (between Paseo 105 and Paseo 104) • Pleno Sol, Avenida 3 (between Paseo 133 and Paseo 135) & • Rocinante, Avenida Buenos Aires between Avenida 3 and Alameda 203 Pizzerías • Cosco Inna, Avenida 3 near Paseo 105 • Don Juan, Avenida Buenos Aires near Alameda 203 • Mafalda, Avenida 3 near Paseo 118 • Michelangelo, Avenida 3 near Paseo 105 • Pinocchio, Avenida 3 near Paseo 104 • Ventura II, Avenida 3 near Paseo 121

Eating out in Mar de las Pampas • Confitería Viejos Tiempos, Leoncio Paiva near Avenida Cruz del Sur

n Entertainment

• • • •

• • •

Cafeterías • Bacara, Avenida 3 near Paseo 106 • Barajas, Avenida 3 and Paseo 104 • Cachavacha, Avenida 3 near Paseo 108. Bar • Mono Cafetero, Paseo 105 between Avenida 3 and Avenida 3 bis • Nostalgias, Avenida 3 between Paseo 105 and Paseo 106 • Sagitario, Avenida 3 near Paseo 140 • Torino, Avenida 3 near Paseo 104

• • • •

I Post and telegraph

• •

Villa Gesell

Cine Genilo, Avenida 3 near Paseo 136 Disco All Right, Avenida 3 between Avenida Buenos Aires and Paseo 102 Disco Caribe, Avenida Buenos Aires between Avenida 8 and Avenida 10 Disco Chocolate, Paseo 103 bis near Costanera Disco Dixit, Paseo 106 near Avenida 3 Disco Paladu, Paseo 103 bis near Avenida 1 Disco Sabash, Paseo 103 (between Avenida 1 and Costanera) Disco Tango, Avenida 2 near Paseo 104 Disco Dali, Paseo 103 bis near beach Pub Dogos, Paseo 104 near Avenida 2 Pub Del Biografo, Avenida 3 near Paseo 105

232

Post office: Correo, Avenida 3 (between Paseo 105 and Paseo 106) Telephone: Cooperativa Telefónica, Avenida 3 near Paseo 113

BUENOS AIRES S Buses from Villa Gesell

The bus terminal is on Avenida 3 near Paseo 140, some distance south of the town center @ 466058. Bus companies • Empresa Antón @ 466053 • El Rápido Argentino @ 466344 • Montemar @ 466611 • El Pampa @ 466611 • Río de la Plata @ 466058 • Río Paraná @ 466611 • Ruta Atlántica @ 466611 • In the holiday season also Rutamar, Alberino, and Compañía Argentina de Turismo Long-distance services • Buenos Aires ($20.00; 7 hrs); 13 daily • La Plata • Luján • Pinamar (1 2 hour); 8 daily • Mar del Plata ($6.20; 2 hrs); 8 daily • Santa Clara del Mar and San Clemente del Tuyú •

L Financial •

Water-skiing at the far end of the beach near Paseo 112 and 131 Riding schools and horse hire • Tante Puppi, Boulevard near Buenos Aires • Yoni, Avenida 3 near Paseo 156 Tennis • Tennis Norte, corner of Alameda 205 and Calle 310 @ 468168 • Tennis Caravan, corner of Avenida Circunvalación and Paseo 101 @ 469259 • Tennis Posta Carreta, Avenida 1 between Paseo 109 and Paseo 110 @ 462526

Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires, Avenida 3 (between Paseo 107 and Paseo 108). Cash advances on Visa card. ATM

M Services and facilities •

Bicycle hire: Casa Macca Avenida Buenos Aires 447

N Clubs •

Chess: Círculo de Ajedrez, Avenida 3 (between Paseo 110 and Paseo 110 bis)

R Air services •

Aerolíneas Argentinas, Avenida Buenos Aires near Avenida 10 @ 468331. Several flights daily to Buenos Aires

p Sightseeing

•

U Motoring •

Service station: A.C.A., Avenida 3 between Paseo 112 and Paseo 113

a Sport • • • •

Golf: Villa Gesell Golf Club, Paseo del Golf @ 62249. Also tennis courts; 9 holes Rifle Range: Club de Casa y Pesca de Villa Gesell, Paseo 150 near beach Bowling: Friends, Avenida 3 between Paseo 105 and 106 Tennis: Norte, Alameda 205 near Calle 310

Museo Histórico Municipal (Municipal Historical Museum). Located at the northern end of town in the former house of the town’s founder Carlos Idaho Gesell; surrounded by a pine forest

s Excursions Tour operators • Costamar, Avenida 4 (between Paseo 104 and Paseo 105) @ 462340 Excursions • Northern end of Laguna Mar Chiquita and Pinamar: Both are

233

Villa Gesell

PAMPA PROVINCES •

•

within easy reach of Villa Gesell by frequent buses Jueguelandia, Avenida 3 between Paseo 125 and Paseo 126. This is a Disneyland theme park

Faro Querandí: A lighthouse located 30 km south of town, surrounded by a mixed pine/eucalyptus forest. Use 4WD vehicles

ZÁRATE

Zárate Population: 85 000 Postal code: 2800 @ area code: (03487) Distance from Buenos Aires: 89 km north-west on RN 9

Z

árate is located on the Río Paraná de las Palmas, best known for the Zárate–Brazo Largo road–rail technical complex which spans the Río Paraná and links the provinces of Buenos Aires and Entre Ríos. • • • • •

Besides being an important road and rail junction, it is also a highly industrialized city. It has refrigeration plants and paper factories, and the Atomic Energy Center of Atucha is nearby. Buses and trains run frequently between Zárate and Buenos Aires. There are excursion boats departing from Zárate.

n Entertainment

• • •

Casablanca, R. Noya 742. Dancing Garage, Ameghino 655. Dancing Imagen, R. Noya 745. Dancing

I Post and telegraph

B Tourist information •

Club Argentino, 19 de Marzo 355 Tiempos Viejos, Castelli 750 Roal, De la Torre 1300 Montero, De la Torre 1000 Centro de Comercio, Ituzaingó 635

•

Palacio Municipal, Apolo XI @ 421804 fax

Post office: Encotesa, Dr. F. Pagola 35

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Brown 335. • Empresa Micromar ° Rosario ($11.00; 3 hrs); 6 daily ° Buenos Aires ($4.40; 1 hour); 6 daily • Expreso Paraná, Alte. Brown 355 (2800) @ (02328) 423897 fax (02328) 424783

E Eating out Cafeterías • Salasa, Independencia 850 • Ceres, J. Lima 360 Restaurants • Círculo Social, 19 de Marzo 150 • Club Independiente, Independencia 963

C Accommodation in Zárate Hotels *** *

Palace, 19 de Marzo 333 San Martín, J. Lima de Atucha 496

Hospedajes A A A A

Zárate

Hospedaje Panambí, Ituzaingó 562 Welcome, J Lima de Atucha 340 Carvallo, Calle 7–310 Venecia, 19 de Marzo 651

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AEFLPV

@ @

424228 422713

$F $F

2 2

LP DFLP LP LP

@ @ @ @

422084 422622 480229 424579

$G $F $H $H

2 2 2 2

234

BUENOS AIRES °

Buenos Aires ($4.40; 1 hour) via Campana, Escobar, the Intersection of Panamericana and RP 197, Saavedra, Villa Ballester, and San Martín; 6 daily

bridges each 550 m long and stands 50 m over the river level, the total length together with the access roads mostly through swampy area is 6.5 km, while the length of the railroad section is 10 km. This major engineering feat took six years to build and was completed in November 1977

U Motoring

There is a toll bridge over the Brazo Largo complex. • A.C.A., Independencia 450 @ 421507

s Excursions

T Trains

•

Fast trains run from Zárate to Buenos Aire and Rosario.

a Sport •

Club Náutico Zárate, Rivadavia @ 422358. Restaurant • Golf: Smithfield Golf Club, RN 12 KM 64 @ 43226223/9585 • Tenis Club Zárate, Villa Smithfield Sport in Capilla del Señor Located 35 km south on RP 6 • Golf: Indio-Cua Country Club, Ruta 6 KM 27 @ (02323) 47333

p Sightseeing •

The Zárate–Brazo Largo Complex over the Río Paraná consists of two

Stopovers

I

Estancia Las Palmas located on the Río Paraná is accessed from RN 9 KM 96. The estancia, founded by the Jesuits, is now private property. The main building dates from last century and the park is dotted with century old trees. During the English invasions the estancia was used as a POW camp. On the property is a trout farm, and llamas; there are also a swimming pool and tennis court; fishing trips and water sports are organized. The Salón de los Recuerdos (“Remembrance Room”) exhibits historic memorabilia. Gaucho events and parrillas are organized also

STOPOVERS

n this section I have listed those towns which are not on the normal tourist trail but have some facilities. •

Hotel Chimpay, E. Violante 36 @ (02388) 471173 Arrecifes Nearest town described: San Antonio de Areco 65 km east on RN 8 (page 194) • Hotel Acapulco, RN 8 near RN 91 @ (02478) 452084 • Hotel Arrecifes, RN 8 KM 176 @ (02478) 452992 • Hotel el Ceibo, RN 8 KM 175 @ (02478) 453492 Avellaneda Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; part of greater Buenos Aires south • Hotel López, Ave. B. Mitre 168 @ (011) 42012712

Adolfo González Chaves Nearest town described: Tres Arroyos 43 km south on RN 3 (page 225) • Hotel Central, A.P. de Elicagaray @ (02983) 481318 • Hotel Paris, J.Elicagaray near Sarmiento @ (02983) 481535 Alberti Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 200 km east on RN 5 • Hotel Estrella, San Martín 146 @ (02346) 471211 Ameghino Postal code: 6064 Nearest town described: Junín 150 km east on RN 188 (page 134) 235

Stopovers

PAMPA PROVINCES •

Hotel Libertad, Ruta 205 near Ave. Libertad @ (02226) 430880 • Hotel Los Conco Hermanos, Libertad 1800 @ (02226) 421344 Carlos Casares Nearest town described: Junín 152 km north on RN 5 and RP 65 (page 134) • Hotel Gran Hotel Carlos Casares, Maipú @ (02395) 452270

Ayacucho Nearest town described: Tandil 70 km south east on RP 74 (page 218) *** Hotel Plaza, 9 de Julio 970 @ (02296) 452300 • Hotel Ayacucho Palace, L.N. Alem 872 @ (02296) 452629 Belén de Escobar Nearest town described: Pilar 16 km south on RP 25 (page 187) • Hostería del Caballito Blanco, Ruta Panamericana KM 51 @ (02488) 420310 • Hostería Solana de Escobar, Panamericana KM 51 @ (02488) 420665 • Hotel de la Flor, J.M. Estrada 926 @ (02488)426924 • Hotel Sans Souci, B. De Irigoyen 548 @ (02488) 420343 • Hotel Paris, Rivadavia 631 @ (02488) 420456 Bella Vista Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; part of greater Buenos Aires west • Hotel Carjoma, Zuviría 1470 @(011) 46641222 Benito Juárez Postal code: 7020 Nearest town described: Tandil 84 km north on RP 74 (page 218) • Hotel Juárez, Ave. E. Zabala near San Martín @/fax (02292) 452664 • Residencial Colonial, C. Zibecchi 26 @ (02292) 2439 Bolívar Nearest town described: Olavarría 114 km south-east on RN 226 (page 184) • Hotel Horizonte, Ave. Almte Brown 224 @ (02314) 428963 • Hotel La Zamorana, B. Mitre 270 @ (02314) 428665 • Hotel Plaza, San Martín 102 @ (02314) 427506 • Hotel San Carlos, Ave. Brown near Alsina @ (02314) 420320 Cachari Nearest town described: Azul 115 km south on RN 3 (page 110) • Hotel La Paz, 9 de Julio 179 @ (02281) 481040 Cañuelas Nearest town described: Lobos 38 km south on RN 205 (page 140)

Stopovers

Carmen de Areco Nearest town described: San Antonio de Areco 46 km north-west (page 194) • Hotel Carmen de Areco RN 7 KM 13 @ (02273) 442543 Caseros Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; part of greater Buenos Aires west • Hotel Acosta, 3 de Febrero 2812 @ (011) 47598725 • Hotel Plaza, Carlos Tejedor 4896 @ (011) 47508968 • Hotel Tropezón, Asamblea 4661 @ (011) 47504130 Castelli Nearest town described: Chascomús 61 km north on RN 2 (page 127) • Hotel Don Fausto, Tucumán 53 @ (02245) 480116 Chacabuco Nearest town described: Junín 60 km west on RN 7 (page 134) • Hotel Avenida, Ave. Lamadrid 103 @ (02352) 450929 • Residencial Golia, Avellaneda 43 @ (02352) 427233 • Hotel Unión, San Lorenzo 69 @ (02352) 428309 Chillar Nearest town described: Azul 62 km north on RN 3 (page 110) • Hotel El Descanso, J.E. Uriburu near RN 3 @ (02281) 497132 Chivilcoy Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 160 km north-east on RN 7 • Hotel Avenida, Ave. de Tomaso @ (02346) 424934 • Hotel Centro, Necochea 34 @ (02346) 422444 • Hotel Chivilcoy, Ave. Sarmiento 125 @ (02346) 430700 • Hotel Falcone, Belgrano 201 @ (02346) 420116 236

BUENOS AIRES •

Hotel Iglesias, Pueyrredón 115 @ (02346) 422322 • Hotel Necochea, Necochea 24 @ (02346) 423492 • Hotel Patri, Ave. Ceballos 163 @ (02346) 424044 • Hotel Petit Hotel, H. Yrigoyen 259 @ (02346) 434242 Colón Nearest town described: Junín 107 km south on RP 31 and RN 188 (page 134) • Hotelera Mediterránea, Calle 47–1061 @ (02473) 423070 Coronel Dorrego Nearest town described: Monte Hermoso 40 km south on RN 3 and RP 78 (page 173) • Hotel San Martín, San Martín 566 @ (02921) 453218 • Hotel América, A.B. Costa 756 F @ (02921) 452455 Coronel Pringles Nearest town described: Sierra de la Ventana 99 km west (page 214) • Hotel Avenida, Cnel Dorrego 1181 @ (02922) 465412/462083 • Hotel Pringles, Stegmann 656 @ (02922) 462050 • Residencial Lafaille, Ave, 25 de Mayo 654 @ (02922) 462148 Coronel Suárez Nearest town described: Guaminí 64 km north on RP 85 (page 133) • Hotel Gran Hotel Coronel Suárez, Mitre near Brandsen @ (02926) 421095 • Hotel Laval, Ave. Casey near Brandsen @ (02926) 422142 • Hotel Gran Hotel Torino, Ave. Casey near Sarmiento @ (02926) 422103 • Hotel Plaza, Belgrano near Lavalle @ (02926) 421042 Daireaux Nearest town described: Guaminí 82 km south-west on RP 65 (page 133) • Hotel Daireaux, Alsina 40 @ (02316) 452155 • Hotel Don Pepo, J. Newbery 88 @ (02316) 452543 Dolores Nearest town described: Chascomús 85 km north on RN 2 (page 127) • Hotel Plaza, Castelli 75 @ (02245) 442362

Don Torcuato Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires west • Hotel Classic, Dante Aleghieri @ (011) 47481921 General Alvear Nearest town described: Azul 112 km south on RP 51 (page 110) • Hotel Mengarelli, Wallace near Pellegrini @ (02344) 481464 • Hotel Estancia Chica, RN 61 F @ (02344) 481066 General Arenales Nearest town described: Junín 65 km south-east (page 134) • Hotel Acuña, Ave. B. Mitre 180 @ (02353) 460271 General Belgrano Nearest town described: San Miguel del Monte 51 km north on RP 41 (page 204) • Hotel Aribet, Ave. Sarmiento 1434 @ (02243) 452084 • Hotel Brisas del Chadi, Calle 109 near 60 @ (02243) 453474 • Residencial La Fontana, J.E. De la Fuente 675 @ (02243) 453196 General La Madrid Nearest town described: Olavarría 95 km north (page 184) • Hotel Avenida, Mitre near Lavalle @ (02286) 420055 • Residencial Rivadavia B. Rivadavia 753 @ (02286) 420273 • Residencial Dorrego, Dorrego 725 @ (02286) 420869 General Madariaga Nearest town described: Pinamar 24 km east on RP 74 (page 188) • Hostería R & C, Urrutia 149 @ (02267) 424422 • Hotel Gran Hotel San Carlos, Dr. C. Madariaga 210 @ (02267) 425449 • Hotel London, Moreno 975 @ (02267) 421101 • Hotel Maite, Moreno 624 @ (02267) 425431 General Pinto Nearest town described: Junín 92 km east on RN 188 (page 134) • Hotel Ancaloo, Ave. Mitre 263 @ (0223) 4959740

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PAMPA PROVINCES •

General Sarmiento Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; part of greater Buenos Aires • Hotel Muñiz, M. Irigoyen 599 @ (011) 44514820 • Hotel La Quinta de San Miguel, Ave. B. Mitre 319 @ (011) 44550720

•

• Lobería Nearest town described: Necochea 49 km south on RP 227 (page 176) • Hotel Español, Ave. Mitre 65 F @ (02261) 442074

General Villegas Nearest town described: Junín 200 km east on RN 188 (page 134) • Hotel Alvear, Moreno 1295 @ (02388) 422102 • Hotel Antonini, RN 188 KM 361 @ (2388) 422050 • Hotel Rucalen, Arenales 321 @ (02388) 421022 • Residencial Frey, Ruta 188 KM 361 @ (02388) 421890 • Residencial Plaza, Rivadavia 737 @ (02388) 421639 Henderson Nearest town described: Guaminí 114 km south-west on RP 65 and RP 86 (page 133) • Hostal La Plaza de Mateo María, M. Moreno 373 @ (02314) 452079 La Lucila Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; part of greater Buenos Aires • Hotel American, Ave. Libertador 3136 @ (011) 47906895 Laprida Nearest town described: Olavarría 120 km north on RP 76 and RP 86 (page 184) • Hotel Avenida, Ave. P. Pereyra 1001 @ (02285) 420551

Maipú Nearest town described: Mar del Plata 128 km south on RP 2 (page 150) • Hotel Munich, Madero 661 @ (02268)421534 Mar Chiquita Nearest town described: Mar del Plata 30 km south on RP 11 (page 150) • Hotel Mar Chiquita, Echeverría @ (0223) 4691046 Martín Coronado Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires • Hotel Nuevo Rubi, Holanda 3565 @ (011) 48423267 Médanos Nearest town described: Bahía Blanca 48 km north on RP 3 (page 111) • Hotel comercio, Ave. Mitre 2 F @ (02927) 432207 Mercedes Nearest town described: Luján 30 km north-east on RN 5 (page 143) • Hostería Tomás Jofre, Calle 7 near 8 @ (02324) 433328 • Hotel Costa, Calle 32–627 @ (02324) 422699 Merlo Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 39 km north • Hotel Castrelo, C. Calvo 37 @ (0220) 4821982 • Hotel Merlo, V. Loza 709 @ (0220) 482033 Monte Grande Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires south-west • Aeropuerto Hotel, D.G. Ocantos 26 @ (011) 42902081

Las Flores Nearest town described: San Miguel del Monte 76 km north on RP 3 (page 204) • Hotel América, Ave. San Martín near Pellegrini @ (02244) 452552 • Hotel Gran Hotel Avenida, Ave. San Martín 464 @ (02244) 452463 • Residencial Balo, RN 3 KM 187 @ (02244) 454027 • Pensión Teresita, Ave. Sarmiento 574 @ (02244) 453039 Lincoln Nearest town described: Junín 56 km north east on RN 188 (page 134) • Hotel Castilla, Yrigoyen near Fortín La Guardia @ (02355) 422111

Stopovers

Hotel Dorado, Rivadavia 1342 @ (02355) 422500 Hotel Impala, Sarmiento 900 @ (02355) 422212 Hotel Plaza, Mitre 36 @ (02355) 422588

Morón Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires 238

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Hotel Alem, Alem 1199 @ (011) 46272181 • Hotel Cabildo, Cabildo 368 @ (011) 46297516 • Hotel First, Gral. Munilla 1072 @ (011) 44834588 • Hotel Morón, Mendoza 409 @ (011) 46274430 Munro Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires • Hotel Munro, Ave. V. Sarsfield 5940 @ (011) 47621317 Nueve de Julio Nearest town described: Junín 108 km north on RP 65 (page 134) • Hotel Avenida Palace, Ave. Mitre 702 @ (02317) 422014 • Hotel El Tren, Ave. Vedia 138 @ (02317) 422082 • Hotel Terminal, Ave. Avellaneda near Robbio @ (02317)422306 Olivos Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires north-west • Hotel Costa Azul, B. Cruz 1299 @ (011) 47974774 • Hotel Norte, B. De Irigoyen 4249 @ (011) 47173471 • Hotel San Lorenzo, San Lorenzo 1525 @ (011) 47998608 • Hotel Riox, Sturiza 464 @ (011) 47941654 Pedro Luro Nearest town described: Bahía Blanca 87 km north on RN 3 (page 111) • Hotel Argentino, Calle 5–1109 @ (02928) 420111

Polvorines Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires • Hotel El Chilecito, Arquímedes 2 RN 202 @ (011) 44636590 Puán Nearest town described: Guaminí 101 km north RP 67 and RN 33 (page 133) • Hotel Puán, San Martín 105 @ (02923) 498105 • Residencial Savizky, San Martín 52 @ (02923) 498174 Quilmes Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires south-east • Apart Hotel Ciudad de Quilmes, N. Videla 160 @ (011) 42533098 • Hotel Poland, Alvear 624 @ (011) 42530543 Ramallo Nearest town described: San Nicolás de los Arroyos 22 km north (page 206) • Hotel Siria, J.M. Gomendio 1149 @ (02407) 471491 Rauch Nearest town described: Tandil 70 km south on RP 30 (page 218) *** Hotel Gran Hotel Rauch, Ave. San Martín 539 @ (02297) 442318 • Hotel Bernatene, B.F. Aveleyra 1 @ (02297) 442106 • Hotel San Marcos, Ave. San Martín 1002 @ (02297) 442130 Rivera Nearest town described: Carhué 67 km easr on RP 60 (page 123) • Hotel Schmidt, Rivadavia 142 @ (02935) 432043 Rojas • Nearest town described: Junín 54 km south on RN 188 (page 134) • Hostal Rojas, J.A. Roca 335 @ (02475) 464165 • Hotel Victoria, J.A. Roca near Presidente Perón @ (02475) 462146

Pellegrini Nearest town described: Guaminí 113 km south on RN 5 and RP 85 (page 133) • Hotel La Cabaña, RP 5 KM 496 @ (02392) 498623 Pigüé Nearest town described: Guaminí 65 km north on RN 33 (page 133) • Hotel Central, Belgrano near San Martín @ (02923) 473140 • Hotel Gran Hotel Pigüé, España 229 @ (02923) 472460 • Motel Casablanca, RN 33 KM 133 @ (02923) 472632

Roque Pérez Nearest town described: Lobos 36 km north-east on RN 205 (page 140) • Hotel España, Berro 588 @ (02227) 491160 • Hotel Grand Mayoral, Acc. P. Gutiérrez 2451 @ (02227) 491392

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Stopovers

PAMPA PROVINCES San Miguel Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires west • Hotel Class Hotel, Pavón 2574 @ (011) 44512002 • Hotel San Miguel, Cjal Tribulato 929 @ (011) 44512519 Suipacha Nearest town described: Luján 60 km north-east on RN 5 (page 143) • Hotel Alto Suipacha, Padre Luis Brady near Belgrano @ (02324) 481071 Tapalqué Nearest town described: Azul 57 km south on RP 51 (page 110) • Hotel Avenida, Ave. 9 de Julio near Villanueva @ (02283) 421092

Saavedra Nearest town described: Bahía Blanca 108 km south on RN 33 (page 111) • Hotel Sierras, Ave. Cornelio Saavedra near Belgrano @ (02923) 497144 Saladillo Nearest town described: Lobos 90 km north-east on RN 205 (page 140) • Hotel Bellesi, Dr. Taborda 3599 @ (02344) 454408 • Hotel Español, Ave. Belgrano 3365 @ (02344) 453214 • Hotel Saladillo, Mitre 3116 @ (02344)450111 • Hotel Teggiano, Rivadavia near Roca @ (02344)454271 Salliqueló Nearest town described: Guaminí 70 km south-east on RP 85 (page 133) • Residencial Salliqueló, 25 de Mayo 616 @ (02296)452500 Salto Nearest town described: San Pedro 100 km north (page 208) • Hotel Bungalow, Ave. Costanera @ (02474) 422014 • Hotel El Ciervo, San Martín 55 @ (02474) 424582 • Hotel Martita, Bóscolo @ (02474) 423196 • Hotel Salto, RN 31 near Rotonda @ (02474) 423100 San Cayetano Nearest town described: Necochea 88 km west on RP 75 and RN 228 (page 176) • Residencial el Hostal de Tazzo, Rivadavia 186 @ (02983) 470096) San Fernando Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires north • Hotel Cruz Alta, R.P. de las Palmas @ (011) 47280557

Temperly Nearest town described: Buenos Airea; greater Buenos Aires south • Hotel Welcome, Avellaneda 14 @ (011) 42432059 Tornquist Nearest town described: Sierra de la Ventana 37 km east on RP 76 (page 214) • Hotel Central, 9 de Julio 242 @ (0291) 4940035 • Hotel El Mirador, RN 76 KM 226 @ (0291) 4941338 fax • Hotel San José, Güemes 132 @ (0291) 4940152 Trenque Lauquen Nearest town described: Guaminí 123 km south on RN 33 (page 133) • Hotel El Faro, Ave. García Salinas 1075 @ (02392) 431000 • Hotel El Fortín, Presidente Yrigoyen 50 @ (02392)422772 • Hotel Paillahue, 9 de Julio 154 @ (02392) 422010 • Hotel Simón, Villegas 587 @ (02392) 422543 • Hotel Trenque Lauquen, San Martín near Mitre @ (02392) 422203 Vedia Nearest town described: Junín 52 km east on RN 7 (page 134) • Hotel Alas, 25 de Mayo 45 @ (02354) 422089 • Hotel Avenida, Ave. Dunckler 161 @ (02354) 420107 • Hotel Vedia, Rivadavia 54 @ (02354) 420022

San Isidro Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires north • Residencial San Isidro, 3 de Febrero 66 @ (011) 47477138 San Martín Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires west • Hotel Ave. 25 de Mayo 1806 @ (011) 47550685 Stopovers

240

BUENOS AIRES •

Hotel Aguirre, A. Alcorta 5066 @ (011) 47384450 Villa Cacique Nearest town described: Tandil 62 km north-east on RN 74 and RP 80 ( page 218) • Hotel Loma Negra, RN 80 Casa 10 @ (02292) 498395 Villa General Arias Nearest town described: Bahía Blanca 23 km east on RN 3 an RN 228 (page 111) • Motel La Posada, RN 229 @ (02932) 493020

Veinticinco de Mayo Nearest town described: Junín 133 km nort- east on RP 46 (page 134) • Hotel Gran Hotel 25 de Mayo, Calle 27 near 5 @ (02345) 462028 • Hotel Jorly, Calle 10–642 F @ (02345) 462643 Vicente López Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires • Hotel Vicente López, Rodríguez Peña 1561 @ (011) 47973773 fax ADEFSY Villa Adelina Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires • Hotel Alpino, Ave. B. Ader 3770 @ (011) 47669274 • Hotel La Bámbola, Cerrito 3892 @ (011) 47658276 Villa Ballester Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; part of greater Buenos Aires

Golf courses

Villa Iris Nearest town described: Bahía Blanca 113 km south-east on RN 35 (page 111) • Hotel Carretto, Ave. San Martín 42 @ (02925) 432257 Villa Luzuriaga Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; part of greater Buenos Aires • Hotel Oeste SRL, Venezuela 4041 @ (011) 46695412

GOLF COURSES

T

he towns listed here are in the greater Buenos Aires area. Some of these locations are virtually suburbs of the city of Buenos Aires although situated in Buenos Aires Province; they are recognizable by the telephone code (011).

South of Buenos Aires on RN 205

Tristán Suárez Nearest town described: Buenos Aires, 40 km north on RN 205; postal code: 1806 • Scholem Aleijem Bialik RN 205 KM 40 @ (011) 42958261 • Club Privado El Ombú, Blas Parera @ (011) 43711492/42958847 Vicente Casares Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 51 km north on RN 205; postal code: 1808 • La Martona Country Club RN 205 KM 54 @ (011) 43739934/43723855

Canning Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 31 km north; postal code: 1804 • El Sosiego Country Club, Sargento Cabral 4581 @ (011) 45834757/ 42950450 • Country Club El Venado, Sargento Cabral near Escr. Vázquez @ (011) 49617875/42951702 • Consorcio Country Mi Refugio, Sargento Cabral near Lacarra @ (011) 42751778/47722366 Parada Unión Ferroviaria Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 39 km north; postal code: 1804 • Club Atlético Lomas @ (011) 42758043/42440155

Guernica Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 40 km north on RP29 via Lomas de Zamora; postal code: 1862 • El Paraíso Country Club, Avenida 33 near Calle 21 @ (02224) 481361

241

Golf courses

PAMPA PROVINCES Vicente López Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 11 km south-east; postal code: 1638 • Club Atlético Banco Provincia de Buenos Aires, H. Yrigoyen 789

South of Buenos Aires Ezeiza Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 30 km north on autopista; postal code: 1824 • Círculo de la Fuerza Aérea, Campo Cabeza de Caballo

West of Buenos Aires on the road to Pilar

South-west of Buenos Aires

Boulogne sur Mer Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 22 km east; postal code: 1409 • Boulogne Golf Club, Ruta Panamericana near Camino Real Morón @ (011) 47457525/7508

Marcos Paz Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 75 km north-west ; postal code: 1727 • Club de Campo El Moro, RP 200 KM 52.5 @ (0220) 43431849/1993

Don Torcuato Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 29 km east; postal code: 1611 • Hindú Club, RP 202 near Arricau @ (011) 47400054/0154 Garín Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 42 km east; postal code: 1619 • Aranzazu Club de Campo, between Pilar and Garín @ (02488) 43735385 • Miraflores Country Club, RN Panamericana KM 35.5 Tortuguitas Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 48 km east; postal code: 1667 • Tortugas Country Club, RN 08 Panamericana KM 37 access to Pilar @ (02320) 471262/63 Villa de Mayo Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 35 km east; postal code: 1614 • Club Universitario Buenos Aires, Avenida Maipú near Wilson @ (02322) 490269

South-west of Buenos Aires on the road to Luján Moreno Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 39 km north-east; postal code: 1744 • Ocaragua Golf Club, Avenida Gacona near Galileo Galilei @ (02228) (0237) 424444/425333 • San Diego Country Club, RP 25 KM 7 @ (02323) 4225667/43937526 San Antonio de Padua Nearest town described: Buenos Aires, 32 km north-east; postal code: 1718 • Ituzaingó Golf Club, Vicente Gered 161 @ (0220) 422331

North-west of Buenos Aires on RP 27 Los Polvorines Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 32 km east on RN 8; postal code: 1613 • Olivos Golf Club, Ruta Panamericana KM 32.4 @ (011) 46601076 San Isidro Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 18 km south-east; postal code 1642 • Club Náutico San Isidro, Avenida Mitre 1999 fax (011) 47421313 @ (011) 47433090/1/43111171 • Jockey Club San Isidro, Avenida Márquez 1700 @ 47431001/4 • San Isidro Golf Club Avenida Juan Segundo Fernández 386 @ (011) 47666625/0750 • Pacheco Golf Club, Tomkinson 108 @ (011) 47409820/8479

Golf courses

South-east of Buenos Aires Berazategui Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 24 km north-east; postal code: 1884 • Asociación Deportiva Berazategui, Avenida Los Paraísos 1750 Ranelagh Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 29 km north-west on RP 14; postal code: 1806 • Ranelagh Golf Club, Avenida Este near Calle 359 @ 42588514

242

BUENOS AIRES Ituzaingó Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 27 km east; postal code: 1714 • Los Pingüinos Club de Polo, Avenida Pte. Perón 10298 @ (011) 46214716/43310354 Libertad Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 30 km east; postal code: 1716 • Libertad Golf Club, Moretti San Martín Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 16 km east; postal code: 1650 • Club D.F.G. Mitre (Miguelete), Rod. Peña near Tracks of F.C.B. Mitre railway @ (011) 47553627 San Miguel Just outside Buenos Aires; postal code: 1663 • Los Cedros Country Club, El Centinela near RP 202 @ 402150 KM 45.5

West of Buenos Aires Sáenz Peña Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 15 km east • Golf Club San Martín, Lope de Vega near Alv. Thomas @ (011) 47571600/0515 Bella Vista Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 32 km east; postal code: 1661 • San Miguel de Ghiso Country Club, Flaubert between Santa Fe and Obligado @ 46667014/7027 Hurlingham Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 28 km east; postal code: 1686 • Hurlingham Club, Julio A. Roca 1411 @ (011) 46650401 • San Jorge Golf Club, Combate de Pavón near Granaderos @ (011) 46656787

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Golf courses

CÓRDOBA CAMPA P Córdoba ÓRDOBA PROVINCES

Plate 4 248 249 251 253 253 254 255 257 258 263 264 275 277 278 280 281 281 282 283 285 286 287 292 292 293 294 295 297 300 301

Map of Córdoba Province Almafuerte CSa Alta Gracia ABCDEIMSUaps Map Ascochinga Cas Bell Ville CS Bialet Massé CS Capilla del Monte BCDEnJKLSUYaps Córdoba ABCEnJKLMNPRSTUYaps Map of greater Córdoba Map of metropolitan district Map of city center Cosquín ABCDEJKLMSTUps Cruz del Eje ABCEMSUas Déan Funes BCEJKSUTs Embalse CSs Huinca Renancó CS Jesús María ABCDEJKSUs La Carlota CS La Cumbre BCEnJKLMSUas Map La Cumbrecita BCESas La Falda ABCDEnJKLMSUps Laboulaye CSs Lago La Viña CSp Los Cocos CS Marcos Juárez CS Mina Clavero BCDEnJKLMSUas Map Miramar CSUs Reserva Cultural Natural Cerro Colorado CES

244

Córdoba

PAMPA PROVINCES 301 303 306 306 307 307 308 309 310 311 312 313 314 315 315 316 323 325 326 326 327 327 328 329 331 333 334 335 336 337 337 338 338

Río Ceballos BCDESs Río Cuarto BCEnJKLMRSUas Río Tercero CSUs Salsipuedes CDS San Clemente Cs San Francisco CMSUap San José de la Dormida Cs San Marcos Sierra ACS Santa Rosa de Calamuchita Map ABCDEnJKLMSs Taninga Cs Tanti BCEISs Unquillo CSs Vicuña Mackenna C Villa Carlos Paz ABCDEnJKLMNSUYas Map of metropolitan district Map of city center Villa Ciudad de América CS Villa de María del Río Seco CSs Villa de Soto CS Villa del Dique CDS Villa del Totoral CSs Villa Dolores BCDEJKMRSUps Map Villa General Belgrano ABCDEnJKSUas Map Villa Icho Cruz C Villa María ABCJKSUas Villa Rumipal ABCDEnJKRSa Villa Tulumba CS Yacanto de Calamuchita CS Yacanto de San Javier CSa Stopovers CES

órdoba Province is the geographical center of Argentina. It has an excellent road system and a range of good and popular tourist centers. Some of the biggest tourist resorts are centered around the many dams in the Sierras de Córdoba. Water sports and fishing in the rivers and artificial lakes are popular in this province.

C

The eastern and southern part of Córdoba is flat pampa. It is one of the richest agricultural areas of Argentina, partly because of the plentiful water supply. Córdoba is also the center of heavy industry in

Córdoba

Argentina because of the ready availability of electricity from hydroelectric stations such as San Roque, Cruz del Eje, Embalse, Los Alazanes and San Jerónimo. Many of the rivers flowing out of the sierras

245

CÓRDOBA Places of interest

are dammed several times along their course to provide for irrigation and electricity generation. Exploitation of mineral deposits is limited to the extraction of minerals such as marble and manganese. The western mountainous part of Córdoba, the Sierras de Córdoba, contains the major tourist attractions. This is hiking country, particularly around Cerro Champaqui, at 2790 m the highest peak in the province, which is easily accessible from Villa Dolores. Ascents from the Traslasierra side start from San Javier and take six hours; walks to the peak from the Calamuchita Valley start from Villa Berna and take nine hours. The Sierras de Córdoba run for about 500 km north–south and are approximately 170 km wide. The three main ranges comprising the Sierras de Córdoba are the Sierra Grande in the center and the Sierras Chicas with the Punilla valley between them, and the Sierra de Pocho in the west. The higher peaks are snow-covered for part of the year. Some of the larger tourist towns are in the Punilla, such as Villa Carlos Paz on Lago San Roque, La Falda, Cosquín, and La Cumbre. The climate in the sierras is sunny and dry throughout the year, and popular vacation pastimes include riding, walking, tennis, and golf, as well as swimming, fishing, and sailing in the numerous dams. Information can be obtained at the Dirección Provincial de Turismo in Córdoba. Córdoba, the capital of the province, is 771 km north-west of the federal capital Buenos Aires. The A.C.A. has excellent maps of the province and of the Sierras de Córdoba.

The areas of tourist interest are the capital Córdoba itself with its vast architectonic treasures of the Spanish colonial period, followed by the Punilla, a mountainous area to the west of the capital; the historic northern and Sierras Chicas areas; the Traslasierra region which as the name implies is located on the other side of the mountains west of Córdoba city; the area of the great lakes created by damming the rivers coming out of the Sierra de Comechingones; the Mar Chiquita region centerd around the huge inland lake of Mar Chiquita and including the mouths of the rivers flowing into it; the fort and Laguna region in the flat humid pampa in the south-west where the indigenous people resisted the Spanish for some time.

The Jesuits The Jesuits, who were very active in this province, have left their mark in the form of astonishing monuments which bear witness to their cultural and civilizing influence well beyond their normal duty to convert the local tribes to Christianity. Their main centers of activity were the capital Córdoba itself where they founded the university, Alta Gracia to the south and the area around La Calera to the north of the capital.

Parks and reserves Córdoba Province has created twenty-two natural parks or reserves: • Reserva Natural de Fauna La Felipa, an ornithological reserve in the wet pampa near Ucacha; see La Carlota on page 282 • Parque Natural y Reserva Natural Forestal Chancani. Scenic re246

Córdoba

PAMPA PROVINCES

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•

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12 000 ha (29 652 acres) and includes Cerro Champaqui • Parque Nacional Quebrada del Condorito and Reserva Natural Provincial Pampa de Achala. This is a scenic area where condors still fly circles in the skies. Best reached from Villa Carlos Paz and from Mina Clavero. These proposed national and provincial parks measure 40 000 ha (98 841 acres) and 120 000 ha (296 523 acres) • Reserva Natural Recreativa Uritorco. A scenic area in the Sierras Chicas around Cerro Uritorco. Best access from Capilla del Monte; see page 255 • Reserva Recreativa Natural El Diquecito. Encompasses the Río Suquía gorge between Dique San Roque and Diquecito just outside the western periphery of Greater Córdoba; see Excusions from Córdoba on page 275 • Reserva Natural Los Gigantes. The imposing granite rock formations and sheer cliffs with the highest peak reaching 2374 m is already a favorite area for mountaineers and nature walkers. Best accessed from Tanti. See Excursions from Tanti on page 314 • Reserva Natural Vaquerías A scenic reserve on the east side of the the Sierras Chicas. Best reached from Valle Hermoso on a trail; see Excursions from La Falda on page 291 There are other smaller natural reserves in Córdoba Province.

serve protecting a large site of quebracho trees normally only found in the Chaco; reached from Salsacate or Taninga; see Excursions for Taninga on page 313 Reserva Hídrica Natural La Quebrada. This is a water protection area for the headwaters of the Río Ceballos. Best reached from the town of Río Ceballos; see Excursions from Río Ceballos on page 302 Reserva Cultural Natural Cerro Colorado. Archeological site located 160 km north of Córdoba; see page 301 Reserva Natural Bañados del Río Dulce y Laguna Mar Chiquita; a 600 000 ha (1 482 616 acres) wetlands reserve with a large and varied bird life in the eastern part of Córdoba. Best reached from Miramar; see page 300 Monumento Natural Volcanes de Pocho. Three extinct volcanoes form the core area. Best reached from Taninga; see Excursions from Taninga on page 313 Reserva Natural de Fauna Lagunas del Sur y Bañados del Saladillo; a bird sanctuary with large numbers of migratory birds, located in the wet pampa best reached from La Carlota or Laboulaye on RP 4; see Excursions from Laboulaye on page 292 Monumento Natural Champaqui encompasses a large area around Cerro Champaqui. Best reached from Villa Berna in the Calmuchita region and from Los Hornillos in the Traslasierra region. This proposed natural park covers

Córdoba

Highways Córdoba Province is almost in the exact geographical center of Argentina. Most major highways pass through this province. Following are the main highways from the City 247

CÓRDOBA of Córdoba to other population centers.

after passing through Venado Tuerto and Pergamino, you are already in Buenos Aires Province and finally the capital Buenos Aires.

Córdoba to Rosario RN 9 is the direct link between Córdoba and Rosario in Province Santa Fe. The trip goes all the way through flat country, one of the richest agricultural regions in Argentina. This is the humid pampa. ABLO, Antártida Argentina, CACORBA, Coata, La Carlota, T.A. Chevallier run 15 services daily between Córdoba, Rosario and Buenos Aires. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267.

Córdoba to Santiago del Estero RN 9 north is the direct link between Córdoba and Santiago del Estero. It should be noted that as you travel north the climate becomes drier: the beginning of the Chaco region is indicated by increasing numbers of quebracho trees. Traveling north from Córdoba you pass through Jesús María, Villa del Totoral, San José de La Dormida, and Villa de María del Río Seco. The first major town in Santiago del Estero Province is Villa Ojo de Agua. Andesmar, Balut, Cacorba, and La Veloz del Norte run at least eight services daily to Santiago del Estero and beyond to Tucumán and Salta.

Córdoba to Buenos Aires This circuit leads initially on RN 36 directly south through some of the tourist areas in the foothills of the eastern Sierra de Comechingones between Córdoba and Río Cuarto. At Río Cuarto you turn east into RN 8 (also known as the Panamericana) which leads via Venado Tuerto in Santa Fe Province to Buenos Aires. You pass through Alta Gracia, Villa General Belgrano, Santa Rosa de Calmuchita, the tourist areas along the northern side of Embalse del Río Tercero, Almafuerte, Berrotarán, Río Cuarto, La Carlota, Canals and Arías crossing into Santa Fe Province. Then

Córdoba to Santa Fe RN 19 is a major highway linking Córdoba with Santa Fe and Paraná. It passes through Río Primero, Arroyito, La Francia, San Francisco, and Santa Fe. Buses Miramar and Coord. San Francisco have services within the province of Córdoba; Ciudad de Paraná, Expreso Singer and TATA run eight services daily to Santa Fe.

ALMAFUERTE

Almafuerte Postal code: 5854 @ area code: (03571) Altitude: 432 m Distance from Córdoba: 98 km south on RP 6

A

lmafuerte is located on the artificial lake Piedras Moras,18 km from Río Tercero. The dam is 57 m high and 530 m long, and has a surface area of 830 ha (2051 acres). The water is used to irrigate an area of 60 000 ha 248

Almafuerte

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Almafuerte * *

• A A A A

Hotel Pettit, Castelli near Salta AELPV @ Hotel Arrayanes, Pedro Molina 789 AELPV @ Hotel Almafuerte, P.C. Molina 602 @ Residencial Avenida, Tucumán near 25 de Mayo LP Residencial Lombard, Pedro C Molina 481 HLPV Residencial Almafuerte, 25 de Mayo near Pedro C Molina EFHL Residencial San Carlos, Salvador Escabuzo 83 FLP

491343 471194 471129

$H $G

2 2

$I

2

$I

2

(148 262 acres). Forty-six million kilowatt/hours of electricity are generated each year.

B Tourist information •

eral Belgrano,Alta Gracia, and Córdoba; 1–2 daily ° Neuquén via Río Cuarto and Santa Rosa; 1 daily For service details see Bus services from Córdoba on page 267 and Río Cuarto on page 305.

Subdirección de Turismo de Municipalidad, Tucumán 777 @ 471110/290 fax

S Buses •

•

Los Obreros, La Vitoria 6–8 daily services between Córdoba and Río Cuarto TUS, Ave. San Martín @ 472191 ° Round trip via Embalse, Santa Rosa de Calamuchita, Villa Gen-

a Sport

•

Fishing and sailing

ALTA GRACIA

Alta Gracia Population: 38 000 Postal code: 5186 @ area code: (03547) Altitude: 600 m Distance from Córdoba: 38 km south-west on RP 5

A

lta Gracia is situated in a wide valley east of the Sierras Chicas where the valleys of the Punilla and the Río Calamuchita join. The town consists of two parts: the area west of El Tajamar, containing the bus terminal, golf course, and a few hotels; and the center, where there are a Jesuit church, a casino, and hotels. At the time of the Spanish invasion Alta Gracia was inhabited by the Comechingones who called the region “Paravachasca”. Owing to their small physique the Comechingones were no match for the invading Spaniards and soon succumbed.

Alta Gracia

The town was founded in 1588 and was taken over by the Jesuits in 1643. The Jesuits left behind not only some remarkable buildings with walls over one metre thick but also a still-functioning aqueduct system which feeds the artificial lake in the town center.

249

CÓRDOBA Key to map A C D E I T

Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Merced Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Agencia Municipal de Turismo Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 2

Hotel Ritz

3 5 8 9 11

• •

4

0 Services

1 Defunct railroad station 12 Alta Gracia Golf Club

Restaurant El Tajamar

9 Sights 6

El Tajamar, La Huerta, and mill

Cabañas in La Serranita • El Diquecito, RP 5 KM 7 @ 494056; also camping; open in season only

Fiesta Nuestra Señora de la Merced (Festival of Our Lady of Mercy, the city’s patron saint): 24 September Festival Manuel de Falla: November Festival de las Colectividades: February

E Eating out

• •

B Tourist information •

Museo Histórico Nacional Casa del Virrey Liniers 10 Casa del Che Guevara 13 Museo Provincial Manuel de Falla

4 Eating out

A Festivals •

7

Residencial Reyna Apart Hotel La Favorita Hotel Savoy Residencial Asturias Hotel Liguria

Agencia Municipal de Turismo, El Molino near Avenida El Tajamar @ 423455 fax 421851

Restaurant Círculo Italiano, España 450 Restaurant El Tajamar, Belgrano 163. Parrilla

I Post and telegraph

• •

D Camping •

Municipal, Barrio C Pellegrini, on the road to Rinconada Camping in La Serranita • El Caracol, RP 5 KM 12

Post office: Correo Argentino, Urquiza 2 (corner of Belgrano) Telephone: Telecom, Avenida Belgrano 175

M Services and facilities

•

Laundromat: Laverap, España 422. Closed Sundays

C Accommodation in Alta Gracia Apart Hotels ** **

La Favorita, Avenida Belgrano 43 La Posada, Tajamar 95

ABCEFGJLPRSUV AEFGJLPUV golf

@ @

424956 fax 422809

$D $D

2 2

Liguria, Pellegrini 797 Ritz, Avenida Belgrano 302 Savoy, Sarmiento 410

AELPV AELPV AELPV

@ @ @

421766 422565 421125

$H $H $G

2 2 2

AFPV LP LP LP ELP

@ @ @

426555 423668 421724

@

421725

$H $H $H $H

2 2 2 2

@

423443

$G

2

$H

2

Hotels * * *

Residenciales • A A B B

Hispania, Ave. V. Sarsfield 57 Asturias, Vélez Sarsfield 127 Reyna, Urquiza 129 Franchini, Franchini 138 Irma, Cochabamba 46

Accommodation on RN 36 outside Alta Gracia *

Hotel Hostal del Sol, near Malvinas Argentinas AELPSV

Accommodation in La Serranita

A Hospedaje La Serranita, Río Tercero LP Hostería La Porteña, 16 km south of town AELPV

*

250

Alta Gracia

PAMPA PROVINCES To Córdoba

To Río Cuarto NUÑEZ

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N

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Alta Gracia

251

CÓRDOBA S Buses

The bus terminal is on the corner of Sarmiento and Vélez Sarsfield. Some buses do not enter the town, but stop at El Crucero; passengers then take a local bus the extra 3 km into town. • TUS SRL @ 425045; for services see Buses from Córdoba on page 267 • Sierras de Calamuchita, Valle de Calamuchita and Yacanto provide local services to and from Córdoba and around the district; T.A. Chevallier runs long-distance services; for details see Buses from Córdoba on page 267

•

•

U Motoring Service stations • A.C.A., corner of Lucas V Córdoba and Lucio V Rossi • Y.P.F., El Crucero, corner of RP 5 and San Martín. Mechanic available

•

a Sport •

• •

Golf: Alta Gracia Golf Club, Avenida Carlos Pellegrini 1000 @ (03547) 422922; nine-hole golf course Aviation: Aero Club, RP C45 (road to Río Segundo past El Crucero) Walks: Alta Gracia is a good base for walks into the mountains

•

s Excursions

Alta Gracia is a convenient starting point for many trips into the Paravachasca area. Many destinations can be reached by frequent public buses. • Embalse Los Molinos: 35 km. Take RP 5 south, passing through Villa Los Aromos, Villa Anizacate, Villa La Serranía and Villa Ciudad de América. Five km west of Villa Ciudad de América at Potrero de Garay are archeological remains of the pre-Colombian population. On the lake itself you can enjoy aquatic sports. The lake area is served by public transport • La Paisanita and La Serranita are quiet little country villages with accommodation, 10–15 km south of Alta Gracia • Bosque Alegre and observatory: Located in the Sierras Chicas 24 km north of Alta Gracia. There are good views over Alta Gracia, the Sierra Grande and extending as far east as

p Sightseeing •

•

•

Jesuits in 1659. The ruins of the flour mill can still be seen. Nowadays El Tajamar is part of a public park Los Paredones (“The Walls”) were built by the Jesuits as part of the original channel project to conduct water to El Tajamar. One portion can still be seen 4 km from the city center Museo Histórico Nacional Casa del Virrey Liniers (National Historical Museum Home of Viceroy Liniers) was the entrance to the convent, built between 1659 and 1735, and was converted into a museum in 1968. It is in colonial baroque style and has many rooms containing contemporary furniture. It was the home for a short while of viceroy Santiago de Liniers. Open Tues–Sun 09:00–12:00 and 15:00–18:00 Museo Provincial Manuel de Falla (Manuel de Falla Provincial Museum), on Pellegrini (opposite the golf course), home of the famous composer. Open Tues–Fri 09:00–19:00 Casa del Che Guevara (House of Che Guevara), Avellaneda. Home of the former revolutionary who died in Bolivia, fomenting a rebellion

Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Merced parish church is a mixture of Renaissance, baroque, and rococo styles. It took over a hundred years to build and was finally completed in 1762. Its roofs were impregnated with a substance which made them waterproof; the composition of that substance is unknown to this day El Obraje, Nieto 11, built in 1643 was a sort of school where Indians were taught weaving, agriculture, and the rudiments of Christianity under the Jesuits. It still serves as a technical college El Tajamar, La Huerta, and mill. The waters of the Arroyo de los Paredones were brought via underground conduits to the Tajamar weir and distributed to the fields near what is now called Lepri. This extensive project was completed by the

252

Alta Gracia

PAMPA PROVINCES

•

This area has a wild scenic beauty. Proposals have been made to create a national park to preserve the flora and fauna of the area, including the few condors still living here. A mountain walk is possible starting on RN 20 8 km west of El Cóndor, following the headwaters of the Río Condorito and finishing at San Clemente. See San Clemente on page 307

the city of Córdoba. There is a satellite communications center at Bosque Alegre and a small archeological site nearby. Open Thurs. 16:00–18:00 and Sun. 10:00–12:00 and 16:00–18:00 San Clemente: Located 50 km west of Alta Gracia at the gateway to the Quebrada del Condorito which opens into the Cumbres de Achala towards Cerro Lindero, at 2200 m the highest peak of this mountain range.

ASCOCHINGA

Ascochinga Postal code: 5117 @ area code: (03525) Altitude: 734 m Distance from Córdoba: 68 km north on RN 9 (via Jesús María)

T

he little township of Ascochinga is located in the eastern foothills of the Sierras de Córdoba some 68 km north of Córdoba at an altitude of 734 m. From here a very scenic road leads up to La Cumbre. Ascochinga was founded in the middle of the seventeenth century, possibly as an offshoot of the Jesuit mission establishment in Jesús María, Santa Catalina convent, established in 1622. Regular daily buses from Córdoba take two hours. There is an A.C.A. service station on RN 156.

C Accommodation •

in the province of Córdoba. The church was begun in 1754 and the Jesuits were expelled in 1763. It was the home of the Jesuit historians Padre Lozano and Guevara. See Jesús María on page 281

Hotel Golf Ascochinga, @ 492017

a Sport •

Golf: Ascochinga Golf Club, Círculo Fuerza Aérea Córdoba @ 43938061 extension (”int”) 259; nine holes

s Excursions •

Santa Catalina at Jesús María: 13 km north. The remains of the most important and largest Jesuit mission ranch

BELL VILLE

Bell Ville Postal code: 2550 @ area code: (03534) Altitude: 140 m Distance from Córdoba: 68 km south on RN 9 (via Jesús María)

Ascochinga

253

CÓRDOBA

T

his is an agricultural center of some importance with 30 000 inhabitants. It is located 201 km south-east of Córdoba in the wet pampa. For those interested in a game of golf there is the Bell Ville Golf Club, Martín García 800 @ (03534) 426302/425422, with nine holes.

C Accommodation

It has also two museums both in Generl Paz 48: Museo Histórico Regional Sargento Mayor Lorenzo de Lara (Sargento Mayor de Lara Regional Historical Museum) and Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes “Walter Navagio” (Walter Navagio Municipal Fine Arts Museum). The historical museum has four rooms displaying antique furniture, musical instruments and agricultural instruments used in the nineteenth century; also photographs and historical documents. The fine arts museum has a collection of paintings. Both are open Tues and Sun 09:00–13:00 and 15:00–18:00. There is accommodation and gas stations.

Bialet Massé Altitude: 653 m Postal code: 5158 @ area code: (03541)

Hotels *** Gran Hotel Bell Ville, José Pío Angulo 531 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ (03534) 424076 $F 2 ** C e n t r a l , J o s é P í o A n g u l o 5 3 4 AEFGJLPUV @ 424071 $G 2 Residenciales A Italia, José Pío Angulo 599 near Belgrano LP @ 424066 $G 2 A Monica Mary, H. Yrigoyen 348 L @ 424172 $H 2 A Rivadavia, Rivadavia 157 ELP $H 2

S Buses

•

There are 17 daily services to and from Córdoba.

BIALET MASSÉ

B

ialet Massé is located 16 km north of Villa Carlos Paz on RN 38 near the northern end of Lago San Roque in the Punilla valley. Although one of the quieter towns in the Punilla valley, it is still within easy reach of all the tourist areas. Bialet Massé is considered the geographical center of Argentina. Direct daily buses run to Córdoba and to all Punilla tourist areas. Some buses take the direct route to Córdoba via El Diquecito and La Calera; this is also a scenic drive.

*

C Accommodation

•

*

*

Hostería Elba, RN 38 KM 745 AELPV @ 440019 $G 2

254

Hostería El Mirador, RN 38 Mirador del Lago $I 1 Hotel Bialet Massé, R Indarte near Deheza AELPV @ 440031 $G 2 Hotel Portón del Lago, Costa del Río @ 440860

Bialet Massé

PAMPA PROVINCES

CAPILLA DEL MONTE

Capilla del Monte Population: 7200 Postal code: 5184 @ area code: (03548) Altitude: 980 m Distance from Córdoba 110 km north-west on RN 38

T

his tourist resort is in the Sierras Chicas at the foot of Cerro Uritorco which at 1950 m dominates the little town. Capilla del Monte’s unusual microclimate is caused by a higher than usual negative ion content in the atmosphere, making the air very stimulating, a phenomenon also found in Merlo in San Luis

C Accommodation in Capilla del Monte Complejo Turístico

@ @ @

481754/481229 $E 481166 481793 $F

2

AEFGJLPSUV AEFGJLPUV AELPV AELPV AELPV

@ @ @ @ @

481186 481958 482056 482183 481123

$G $G $I $H $H

2 2 1 2 2

ABCELPV

@

481007

$E

4

481766 fax 482070 fax 481019 481667 481043 fax 481083 481331 481740 481028

$E $F $H $F

2 2 2 2

$F $G $H $H

2 2 1 2

Uritorco, RN 38 near Jujuy AELPV • Jondro’s Inn, RN 38 near E. Muiño • Pato’s, H. Yrigoyen near Deán Funes

*

Hosterías ** ** * * *

Las Gemelas, L.N. Alem 967 Tercer Millenio, Corrientes 471 La Atalaya, 9 de Julio 371 María Antonieta Suárez, San Luis 452

Cabañas El Remanso, Latinoamérica 28 • La Toma, Paseo La Toma

*

Hotels **** ** ** ** ** ** * * *

ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ Cerro Uritorco, L.N. Alem 671 AEFGJLPUV @ La Gran Aldea, Corrientes 179 AEFGJLPUV @ Petit Sierras, Pueyrredón 622 near Salta AEFGJLPUV @ Principado, 9 de Julio 550 AEFGJLPUV @ Roma, Corrientes 387 AEFGJLPUV @ Fernández, Pueyrredón 771 AELPV @ La Casona, Avenida Pueyrredón 774 AELPSV @ Plaza, Sarmiento 455 AELPV @ Kuntur, Falucho 121 near Chubut

Residenciales A A A A • •

Centro, H. Yrigoyen near Déan FunesLP Galicia, Salta 174 ELP La Terraza, V. Sarsfield 147 LP Nuñez, H. Yrigoyen 355 EFLP Villa Ani, Salta 462 Albergue Calabalumba AEHL hire of bicycles

4

@ @

482116 481366

@ @

482014 481477

$F

4

@

481341 fax

$J

1

$H

2

Accommodation in San Estebán *

Hotel Padre Rodolfo Hanzelic, Ave. Olmos German spoken AELPV

Capilla del Monte

255

CÓRDOBA province. This is aided by its particular geographical situation between the mountains: the climate is dry without being arid and Capilla enjoys a maximum number of sunny days.

L Financial

There are walks in the nearby mountains, medicinal waters, waterfalls and wide views. Despite its graffiti, El Zapato rock is particularly worth a visit. One block from the central Plaza San Martín is Calle Techada, a street under a roof. Under Accommodation I have also covered San Estebán, which is located half-way between La Cumbre and Capilla del Monte.

•

S Buses

The central bus terminal is on Rivadavia. • ABLO, Rivadavia @ 481036 • Empresa Contal, El Serrano, Pampa de Achala, and 20 de Junio run local services to and from Córdoba and the district • ABLO, Costera Criolla and T.A. Chevallier also run long-distance services. For details see Buses from Córdoba on page 267

B Tourist information •

Banco de la Provincia de Córdoba, Rivadavia 402 @ 481088

Secretaría de Turismo, Rivadavia 541, in the Railway station @ 4381341 ext. 41

U Motoring

D Camping

RN 38 rises towards La Cumbre, reaching its highest point there at 1142 m. The road narrows at Valle de la Punilla. • Service station: A.C.A., B Mitre 1076

E Eating out

Y Shopping

•

Municipal Calabalumba, on the banks of the Río Calabaluma

Try the honey made from carob blossom

Restaurants • Ca Mon, Diagonal Buenos Aires 235 • El Residencial, Salta 255 • Entre Platos, Diagonal Buenos Aires 182 • La Rueda, Diagonal Buenos Aires 152 • Tía Ramón, Rivadavia 539. Parrilla Pizzerías • Barbacoa, Diagonal Buenos Aires 202 • El Gordo Vitale, Diagonal Buenos Aires 266 • Río Negro, Deán Funes 581 • Uritorco, Diagonal Buenos Aires 110 Cafeterías • Camarote Caffe, Diagonal Buenos Aires 151 • La Terminal, Rivadavia

a Sport

•

p Sightseeing

•

•

n Entertainment • •

Patio Bar, H. Yrigoyen 161. Dancing The Loft Disco, Diagonal Buenos Aires 161. Disco and bar

•

Iglesia Parroquial San Antonio de Padua was begun in 1659 and took nearly 70 years to complete. It was enlarged in 1910. The carved image of the patron saint goes back to the foundation of the church. Pueblo Encanto is a castle in Spanish-Moorish style on a 16 ha (40 acre) property. It was built to accommodate King Alfonso XIII of Spain when he abdicated in 1931. It has Moorish gardens, swimming pool, tennis courts, amphitheatre and a restaurant.

s Excursions Tour operators • Turismo Aventura Espinosa, Salta 492 @ 482152; mountaineering and hiking

I Post and telegraph •

Club de Tenis Capilla del Monte, La Atalaya

Post office: Correo Argentino, Corrientes 158 Telephone: Telecom, Jujuy 103

256

Capilla del Monte

PAMPA PROVINCES •

Hang gliding (“parapentes”), L.N. Alem 649 @ 481329

Excursions • Cerro Uritorco: The summit can be reached by a winding path in 21 2 hours. There are good views over much of the Punilla and the Sierras de Córdoba. Permission to walk must be obtained from a house beyond the river crossing. Admission: $2.00 • Dique Los Alazanes with Cerro Las Gemelas is a leisurely 3 hour walk over 11 km; in the artificial lake you can fish for pejerrey • There are two walking paths at the crest of the Sierras Chicas: one is to Los Cocos and the other to Agua de los Palos including Las Gemelas • Río Mayo: Excellent trout fishing, one hour’s drive from Capilla del Monte • San Marcos Sierra: The 22 km winding road to San Marcos Sierra is

•

•

particularly scenic You can walk here on the 22 km dirt road. Parakeets abound. There are many small farmhouses, and you will also see panoramic views to the Dique Cruz del Eje. Coord. Valle de Punilla runs daily frequent buses to and from Capilla del Monte. Suggestion: walk down to San Marcos Sierra and return by bus Parque Municipal El Zapato, 1 km from the town center, is a rock outcrop of volcanic origin. Some rocks have peculiar shapes due to the erosive force of wind and water A scenic drive to Ongamira via Quebrada de la Luna, 26 km east of town on RP 17 leading to Villa del Totoral a further 50 odd kilometers. Ongamira was the last redoubt of the Comechingones Indians

CÓRDOBA

Córdoba Population: 1 235 000 Postal code: 5000 @ area code: (0351) Altitude: 400 m Distances • From Buenos Aires: 713 km north-west on RN 9 • From Santiago del Estero: 439 km south on RN 9

C

órdoba is the capital of the province and the second largest city in Argentina. It was founded in 1573 by Jerónimo Luis de Cabrera, and its university which dates from 1613 was one of the first in the country. Córdoba has retained a remarkable number of buildings from its Spanish past despite the fact that it is now a modern industrial city—it is the hub of the Argentine car manufacturing industry—and an important commercial center. Renault and Fiat have huge factory complexes on the southern outskirts. The center around Plaza San Martín may be described as a jewel of colonial art. The inner-city pedestrian malls are full

Córdoba

of shops and restaurants, and the night life is quite dazzling. Culture is very important in Córdoba—there are plenty of theaters and museums. Córdoba is situated on the Río Primero. To the west and south the Sierras de Córdoba rise to a height of over 2500 m, while to the east there is the seemingly endless flat pampa. Also described here are La Calera and Villa Allende. 257

CÓRDOBA La Calera is located on the northern outskirts of Córdoba, 19 km from the town center on the road to Lago San Roque, at an altitude of 500 m. By taking this route into the Punilla you by-pass Villa Carlos Paz and reach the Punilla near Bialet Massé. Of interest are the nearby ruins of a Jesuit chapel built in the eighteenth century and the ruins of an old mill. @ code (03543).

To Va. Allende

To Airport

From La Calera Casa Bamba is further up the Río Primero. Villa Allende is located at the foot of Cerro Pan de Azúcar, at an altitude of 505 m; just 17 km north of Córdoba it is virtually an outer northern suburb. It has an 18-hole golf course where the prestigious Centro de la República golf tournament is held. @ code (03543).

A Festivals

•

Foundation of the City: July 6

To Río Ceballos

To Santiago del Estero

57 74 9

BVAR DE LOS ALEMANE S

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

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Córdoba

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Córdoba

There are cheap hotels in the area next to the bus terminal (across the pedestrian bridge) and also in Alto Córdoba (Upper Córdoba) near F C General Belgrano station. Hotels ***** ****

**** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** **

Sussex, San Jerónimo 125 ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$TUVXYZ Fax 4229070 @ 4229075 Córdoba Park Hotel, Bulevar San Juan 165 Fax 4245772 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ @ 4207000 Córdoba Plaza, San Jerónimo 137 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 4268900 Dr César C Carman, Avenida Sabattini 459 @ 4229100 fax Fax 4268840 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Ducal Suites Hotel, Corrientes 207 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ Fax 4268840 @ 4268800 Gran Hotel Dora, Entre Ríos 70 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 4240167 @ 4240167 Mediterráneo, M.T. de Alvear 10 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 4240111 @ 4240086 Panorama, M.T. de Alvear 251 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ @ 4204000 fax Panorama Business, M.T. de Alvear 363 @ 4203900 fax ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ Windsor, Buenos Aires 214 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 4228051 @ 4224012/5 fax Cristal, Entre Ríos 56 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 4245000 @ 4244555 de la Cañada, M.T. de Alvear 580, along the Cañada Fax 4231227 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 4214649 El Virrey, Bulevar Mitre 227 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 4257777 @ 4220039 Felipe II, San Jerónimo 279 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: [email protected] @ 4255500 fax Grand Astoria, Avenida Colón 164 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Ffax 4240697 @ 4215092 Ritz, San Jerónimo 495 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 42227409 @ 4215031 Viña de Italia, San Jerónimo 611 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 4251678 @ 4226589 Waldorf, Avenida Olmos 513 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 4235806 @ 4228051 Argentino, Entre Ríos 60 AEFGJLPUV Fax 4245000 @ 4214609 Bristol, Pasaje Tomás Oliver 64 AEFGJLPUV @ 4232216 fax Corona, San Jerónimo 574 AEFGJLPUV @ 4228789 Dallas, San Jerónimo 339 AEFGJLPUV Fax 4216091 @ 4216092 Del Boulevard, Bulevar Arturo Illia 184 AEFGJLPSUV @ 4243718 fax Del Sol, Balcarce 144 AEFGJLPUV Fax 4233961 @ 4233961 Dorrego, Tránsito Cáceres de Allende 485 AEFGJLPUV @ 4221039 fax Gran Crisol, Avenida Sabattini 1516 AEFGHLPUY Fax 4217164 @ 4220205 Gran Rex, Vélez Sarsfield 601 ADEFGHJKLPTUVY @ 4238961 fax Heydi, Bulevar Illia 615 AEFGJLPUV @ 4233544 fax

Córdoba

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CÓRDOBA Accommodation in Córdoba — continued ** ** * * * * * * * * * *

Montecarlo, Avenida Sabattini 1699 AEFGJLPUV @ 4553492 fax Royal, Bulevar Perón 180 (opposite F C General Mitre rail station) AEFGJLPUV @ 4227155 Alex, Bulevar Illia 742 AELPV @ 4214350 Claridge, 25 de Mayo 218 AELPV @ 4215741 Cuyo, Obispo Trejo 647 AELPV @ 4238134 Damar, Bulevar Illia 518 AELPV @ 4233180 Garden, 25 de Mayo 35 ADEHKLPUV @ 4214729 Mallorca, Balcarce 73 AELPV Near F C General B Mitre rail station and bus terminal @ 4239234 Paseo del César, Rincón 173 AELPV @ 4225965 Riviera, Balcarce 74 AELPV Near the bus terminal @ 4235303 Roma Termini, Entre Ríos 687 AELPV @ 4218721 Viena, Laprida 235 AELPV @ 4229814

Residenciales

A Florida, Rosario de Santa Fe 459 LP A Meridiano, San Jerónimo 532 LP • Hospedaje Susy, Entre Ríos 528 For budget travelers A Turin’s, Vélez Sarsfield 671 LP A Vázquez, Santiago del Estero 188 LP A Wonder, San Jerónimo 519 EFLP Fax 4228051 • Central, Bulevar Perón 150 near bus station • Tanoa formerly Soledad, San Jerónimo 479 For budget travelers

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Accommodation in Alto Córdoba near F C General Belgrano station Hotels ** ** *

Castelar, Avenida J.L. de Cabrera 265 AEFGJLPUV Gran Savoy, Avenida J.L. de Cabrera 201 AEFGJLPUV Fax 4721342 Valle, Avenida J.L. de Cabrera 197 AELPV

Residenciales

A Italiano, J.L. de Cabrera 313

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Accommodation in General Paz The barrio of General Paz is located in the north-eastern part of the city.

• Hotel Bari, Sarmiento 1510 near Roma opp. Hospital Italiano ADFGPT @ 4522495 fax

Accommodation in La Calera

• Hotel Le Passion, RP 55 Hotel Suquía, S. Moyano 401

*

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Accommodation in Villa Allende

• Hospedaje Premier, Sargento Cabral 137

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B Tourist information

San Gerónimo (St Jerome): September 30

•

260

Secretaría Turismo de la Provincia de Córdoba, Tucumán 360 @ 4233061/4233248 fax 4245370

Córdoba

PAMPA PROVINCES • •

• • •

•

La Perla II, San Gerónimo 137 downstairs • La Vieja Casa, Independencia 508. Parrilla • La Yaya, Independencia 468 • Maté y Plata, Santa Rosa 430 • Munich Avenida, Avenida Colón 170 • Paseo de Gracia, Poeta Lugones 370. German cuisine • Rías Bajas, Montevideo 251 • Romagnolo, Avenida Presidente J D Perón 152 near San Jerónimo ( opposite F C General B Mitre station) • Sol y Luna, Avenida General Paz 278. Vegetarian • Sorocabana, San Jerónimo 98 • Verde Que Te Quiero Verde, 9 de Julio 36. Vegetarian Pizzerías • Antojos, Sucre 119 • Eduardo II, San Martín 46 • Il Bocato, 9 de Julio 540 • La Tasca, Obispo Trejo 22 • Pizzetón, Maipú 180 Cafeterías • Armando III., Deán Funes 52 • Brujas, Achaval Rodríguez 70 • Café de la Paix, San Martín 10 • Castelar, Vélez Sarsfield 78 • Crocker’s, Bulevar Chacabuco 180 • El Quijote, Avenida Vélez Sarsfield 23 near Paseo Santa Catalina • La Tasca del Paseo, Obispo Trejo 22 near Déan Funes • Schneider, Déan Funes near Belgrano. Bar • Zhivago, Avenida General Paz 136 near 9 de Julio

Information center, Cabildo Histórico Independencia 30 facing Plaza San Martín Dirección de Patrimonio Cultural y Turismo de la Municipalidad (Córdoba City Information center), Rosario de Santa Fe 39 @ 4235031/4225761 Tourist information on ground floor in bus terminal, open daily 08:00–20:00 Club Andino, 27 de Abril 2050 Wed 21:00–22:00 Asociación Argentina de Guías de Montaña (Argentine Mountain Guide Association) @ 4808640. Contact: Mr. Jorge Tarditti

E Eating out Restaurants • A Comer, Bulevar San Juan 87. Chinese cuisine • Betos, Bulevar San Juan 450. Parrilla • Boulevard, Bulevar Chacabuco 702 • Casa de España, 24 de Septiembre 94. Spanish cuisine • Cinecitta, Deán Funes 353. Cafeteria • Círculo Alemán, Alsina 145. German cuisine • Como en Casa, Avenida Colón 737 • De la Compañía, Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 45. International cuisine • De la Fundación, Independencia 149. Parrilla • Dixie, 9 de Julio 340 • El Cántaro, Avenida Olmos 146 • El Mundo, Entre Ríos 38. Chinese cuisine • El Parador, Bulevar San Juan 40. Parrilla • Estancia La María, 9 de Julio 366. Parrilla • Gente, Avenida Colón 498 near Jujuy. Cafeteria • Hamilton, 9 de Julio 50 • Il Gatto, Avenida General Paz 120 near 9 de Julio. Italian cuisine • Jockey Club, Avenida General Paz 195 • La Cacerola, Avenida Olmos 35 • La Mamma, Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 270. Italian cuisine • La Parrilla de Miguel, Bulevar San Juan 968. Parrilla • La Perla, Avenida Olmos 265

Córdoba

Fast food • Ufo, Avenida Vélez Sarsfield 153 Eating out on Avenida Sabattini Restaurants • Caballito Blanco, Avenida Sabattini 477. Bar • Colonial, Avenida Sabattini 1817. Parrilla Emperador, Avenida Sabattini 1405. Parrilla • Don Siriaccos, Avenida Sabattini 1883. Parrilla • Giovannino, Avenida Sabattini 2048. International cuisine Cafeterías • A.C.A., Avenida Sabattini 459

261

CÓRDOBA Key to map C G P T

Municipalidad (Town hall) Mercado Norte A.C.A. Bus terminals

3 Accommodation 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 18 52 95 97 111 123 124 125 127 131 134 135 136 138

Residencial Italiano Hotel Castelar Hotel Gran Savoy Hotel Valle Hotel Paseo del César Residencial Mar Del Hotel El Virrey Hotel Grand Astoria Hotel Mediterráneo Hotel Royal Residencial Central Hotel Panorama Business Hotel Damar Hotel Alex Hotel Dorrego Hotel de la Cañada Hotel Dr César C Carman Hotel Gran Rex Residencial Turin’s Hotel Cuyo Hotel Viena

12 14 24 25 26 27 37 54 96 110 120 128 129 132 133 139 141

Restaurant La Mamma Restaurant Gente Restaurant Como en Casa Pizzería Il Bocato Pizzería Antojos Restaurant Dixie and Restaurant Estancia La María Restaurant de la Compañía Restaurant Cinecitta Restaurant Romagnolo Restaurant Betos Restaurant La Yaya Restaurant Rías Bajas Restaurant La Vieja Casa and Restaurant La Cocina de Oses Cafetería A.C.A. Restaurant Caballito Blanco Restaurant Boulevard Restaurant Paseo de Gracia

6 Airline offices

13 Aerolíneas Argentinas and Southern Winds

7 Tour operators and car rental 9 Localiza Rent a Car 15 Excursiones Calamuchita

9 Sights

80 Biblioteca de Córdoba 137 Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón 140 Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes “Emilio Caraffa”

0 Services 1

10 53 79 81 98 112 122 126 130

F C General Belgrano rail road station Secretaría Turismo Alliance Française Dirección de Migraciones Italian consulate Defunct F C General B Mitre railroad station Peruvian consulate Goethe Institut Tourist information Laundromat Integral

4 Eating out

11 Restaurant Maté y Plata

•

Rincón Libanés, Avenida R. Núñez 3800. Lebanese cuisine Eating out in Alto Córdoba Restaurants • La Amistad, R.S. Peña 1523

Eating out in Nueva Córdoba Restaurants • Guccio, H. Yrigoyen 81. International cuisine • La Cocina de Oses, Independencia 512. International cuisine Eating out on Avenida Colón • El Farallón, Avenida Colón 1456. Show • La Gruta, Avenida Colón 2051. Show

n Entertainment

•

Tonos y Toneles, Avenida Santa Fe 450. Peña folklórica Entertainment on Avenida Sabattini • Bateau, Avenida Sabattini 1500. Dancing Entertainment in Nueva Córdoba • Fly City, H. Yrigoyen 370. Dancing • Sweep, H.Yrigoyen 465, Dancing

Eating out in Cerro de las Rosas Cerro de Las Rosas is a western suburb of Córdoba. Restaurants • Casa China, Avenida R. Núñez 4580 • H.B.H., Avenida Rafael Núñez 4615. Beer garden • Il Gatto Trattoria, Avenida R. Núñez 3850. Italian cuisine • La Chiquita, Avenida R. Núñez 4000. Mexican cuisine • La Tranquera, Avenida R. Núñez 4691 • Los Lomitos, Avenida R. Núñez 4850 • Rigoletto Ristorante, Avenida R. Núñez 4530

Entertainment in Cerro de Las Rosas • Champagne, Avenida R. Núñez 5800. Dancing • República, Avenida R. Núñez 5100. Dancing

I Post and telegraph

• •

262

Central post office: Correo Central, Avenida Colón 201 Parcel dispatch: Avenida Colón 230

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• •

Laundromats • Integral, Salguero 555 • La Burbúja, corner of Ituzaingó and San Lorenzo; Open Sun • Laverap, corner of M.T. de Alvear and Belgrano • Limpi-Mas, Vélez Sarsfield 56 (Edificio General Pérez). Open Mon –Sat 07:30–21:30

Post office: Bus terminal Telephone: Telecom, Avenida General Paz 36. For international calls dial @ 000

L Financial • • •

• • • •

Avincor, Rivadavia 15 @ 4241033 LLoyd’s Bank, Buenos Aires 23 Cambio Barujel, San Martín 27 @ 4239540 First National Citibank, Rivadavia 104. Advances on Diners Club card; open 07:30–13:30 Coin Viajes y Cambio, 25 de Mayo 100 @ 4214190 Exprinter, Rivadavia 39 @ 4238219 Maguitur, Rivadavia 30 @ 4233388

Photographic supplies • Fotoscoop, Vélez Sarsfield 80. Good selection of photographic equipment • La Casa de Fotografo, Déan Funes 159

N Clubs

• •

M Services and facilities • • •

Dry cleaner: San Gerónimo 600 Medical services: Clínica Privada Nuevo Córdoba, Chacabuco block 700 (corner of Derqui) Supermarket: Americanos, Vélez Sarsfield 138

• •

264

British: British Council, San Juan 137. Has a good library French: Alliance Française, Ayacucho 46 German: Goethe Institut, Avenida Illia 356; Mon–Fri 17:00–21:00 Italian: Instituto Italiano Cultura, Vélez Sarsfield block 300 (corner of D.Quiróz)

Córdoba

PAMPA PROVINCES Key to map A B

La Catedral Gobernación Provincial (Government) Correo Central Telecom A.C.A. Mini bus terminal

D E P T

3 Accommodation 23 31 36 49 51 66 67 69 71 73 74 75 76 77 78 91 92 93 94 100 103 104 105 108 109 115 117 118 121

Hotel Waldorf Hotel Garden Residencial Vázquez Hotel Claridge Residencial Florida Hotel Sussex Hotel Córdoba Plaza Hotel Felipe II Hotel Dallas Residencial Thanoa Hotel Ritz Residencial Wonder Hotel Riviera Hotel Mallorca Hotel Viña de Italia Residencial Meridiano Hotel Corona Hotel del Sol Hotel Roma Termini Hotel Panorama Hotel Cristal Hotel Argentino Hotel Gran Hotel Dora Hotel Ducal Suites Hospedaje Susy Hotel Windsor Hotel Heydi Hotel Córdoba Park Hotel Hotel Del Boulevard

4 Eating out

16 Restaurant Sol y Luna 17 Restaurant Munich Avenida 19 Restaurant La Cacerola 20 Restaurant La Perla

28 Restaurant Jockey Club 29 Cafetería Zhivago and Restaurant Il Gatto 30 Restaurant Verde Que Te Quiero Verde and Restaurant Hamilton 34 Restaurant El Cántaro 40 Cafetería Armando III. 42 Pizzería Eduardo II 44 Cafetería Café de la Paix 50 Pizzería Pizzetón 57 Cafetería Castelar 59 Cafetería El Quijote 61 Pizzería La Tasca 83 Fast food Ufo 85 Restaurant De la Fundación 87 Restaurant Sorocabana 89 Cafetería Crocker’s Cafetería La Tasca del Paseo 102 Restaurant El Mundo 114 Restaurant El Parador 119 Restaurant A Comer

9 Sights

5 Entertainment

22 33 41 43

86 Teatro Real 113 Teatro del Libertador

6 Airline offices

70 Líneas Aéras Andesmar 99 LAPA

• • • • •

21 38 48 90

Viajes Aeroturis Budget Rent a Car Maguitur Rent a Car Potenza Dadiveco 106 A1 International Rent a Car 116 Avis Rent a Car

46

58 60 63 65 82 88

German consulate First National Citibank Cambio Barujel Asociación Cordobesa de Artesanos Dirección de Patrimonio Cultural y Turismo de la Municipalidad Exprinter and Avincor Limpi-Mas Fotoscoop La Casa de Fotografo Information center Lloyd’s Bank Supermercado Americanos Banco de la Provincia de Córdoba

U Motoring

Visa extensions: Dirección de Migraciones, Caseros 680 @ 422740 Bolivian consulate, Avenida Castro Barros 873 1st floor @ 4732327 Chilean consulate, Crisol 280 @ 4609622 German consulate, Olmos 501 @ 4233962 Italian consulate, Ayacucho 129 @ 4221010 Peruvian consulate, Belgrano 313. @ 4237124. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–14:00

Córdoba

0 Services

7 Tour operators and car 47 rental 56

P Visas, passports •

32 Basílica de la Merced 35 Iglesia del Pilar 39 Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes “Genaro Pérez” 45 La Casa del Obispo Mercadillo 55 Basílica de Santo Domingo 62 Monasterio de Santa Catalina 64 Old Cabildo (City Council) building 68 Museo Casa del Virrey Sobremonte 72 Capilla San Roque 84 Iglesia y Convento de Santa Teresa 101 Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús and the Universidad Mayor de San Marcos 107 Iglesia San Francisco

Service stations • A.C.A., Humberto I block 200 near General Paz • Y.P.F., Rosario de Santa Fe block 600 near Bulevar Guzmán) Car rental • A1 Rent a Car, Hotel Dora, Entre Ríos 70 @ 4224867 fax 4212031. Also at airport • Avis, Corrientes 452 @ 4227384. Also at airport • Budget, Figueroa Alcorta 50 @ 4220781

265

CÓRDOBA R Air services from Córdoba

Aeropuerto Internacional Pajas Blancas, 15 km from the city, is modern and has a very good restaurant. The airport bus leaves from the bus terminal (local 6B) at the corner of Lugones and Avenida Perón half an hour before the plane leaves. Fares to the airport: bus $1.00; taxi $4.00. Airlines • Andesmar, Avenida Chacabuco 80 @ 4217191 ° Catamarca ° Chilecito ° La Rioja; 3 weekly ° Mendoza; 1 daily ° Rosario ($69.00; 1 hour); 10 weekly ° Salta; 1 daily ° San Luis ($64.00; 3 4 hr); 3 weekly ° Tucumán; 1 daily • Southern Winds, Avenida Colón 540 @ 4266626 ° Bariloche via Santa Rosa and Neuquén; 5 weekly ° Buenos Aires (11 4hrs); 4 daily ° Mendoza via San Juan; 2–4 daily ° Resistencia (1 hr); 1 daily ° Salta via La Rioja and Catamarca; 1–2 daily ° Salta via Tucumán; 1–3 daily ° Santa Fe via Rosario; 1–6 daily • Aerolíneas Argentinas/Austral, Avenida Colón 520 @ 4215003 ° Buenos Aires; 5 daily ° Mendoza (1 hr); 1 daily • LAPA, Caseros 355 @ 4220188 ° Buenos Aires (1 hour); 2 daily Air fares and duration • • • • • • • •

• •

Buenos Aires Catamarca Chilecito La Rioja Mendoza Rosario Salta Tucumán

$150.00 $64.00 $75.00 $65.00 $70.00 $70.00 $112.00 $80.00

11 4 hrs 1 hour 11 2 hrs 13 4 hrs 1 hour 1 hour 21 4 hrs 11 4 hrs

Y Shopping

Localiza Rent a Car, Humberto I 531 @ 4236505 Rent a Car Potenza Dadiveco, Chacabuco 185 @ 4210426

Córdoba is a good shopping city; it has a large area of pedestrian malls, but prices tend to be higher than in Buenos Aires. There are several new shopping centers such as Córdoba Shopping Center on Obispo Lascano corner of Virgen de la Merced, and Nuevo Centro Shopping in Duarte Quirós 1400. • Asociación Cordobesa de Artesanos, San Martín 42, Galería San Martín

T Trains

The only train operating in Córdoba Province is the Tren de las Sierras which goes up to the Punilla valley. The trains depart from Estación R. Del Busto. • Cruz del Eje via Cosquín ($5.50; 3 hrs), La Falda, La Cumbre, Huerta Grande ($9.00), and Capilla del Monte ($11.00)

a Sport

The Estadio de Córdoba Chateau Carreras is 11 km from the center in the

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PAMPA PROVINCES S Buses from Córdoba

The modern bus terminal is located on Avenida Presidente J.D. Perón 250 (between Avenida Illia and Avenida Lugones) @ 4234704/4212073/4212472. It houses several cafeterias and restaurants, a tourist office, a post office, public telephones, shops, a bank (cash only at official rate), and clean rest rooms with showers (soap and towel $1.00). It gets crowded at weekends when people travel to neighboring resorts. For destinations within the province there are several local transport terminals. The largest mini terminal is at Mercado Sur, Bulevar Illia 155; a further minibus terminal is on Entre Ríos 358 two blocks up from the main bus terminal; a third “local bus terminal” is on Bulevar San Juan 32/50 just three blocks up from Mercado Sur. Where possible I have indicated the bus destinations from each “terminal”. Companies using main bus terminal • ABLO @ 4299630/1/2/4247015 ° Buenos Aires via Leones, Oncativo, Villa María, Bell Ville, Marcos Juárez, and Rosario; 2–3 daily ° Catamarca via Jesús María and Déan Funes; 3 daily ° Chilecito (7 hrs) via Villa Carlos Paz, Cruz del Eje, Villa de Soto, Chamical, and Patquia; 2 daily ° La Rioja via Villa de Soto and Chamical; 3 daily ° Santa Fe via San Francisco; 2 daily • Andesmar @ 4221951 ° Rawson (44 hrs) via Río Cuarto, Realicó, Santa Rosa, Río Colorado, and San Antonio Oeste; 1 daily ° Jujuy via Villa Ojo de Agua, Santiago del Estero, Tucumán, and General Güemes; 1 daily • Atahualpa ° Salta via Santiago del Estero and Tucumán • Autotransporte San Juan Mar del Plata Local 1B @ 4221951 ° Mar del Plata via Laboulaye • Balut Hnos Local 49 @ 4251950 ° Jujuy via Santiago del Estero, Tucumán, and Salta; 1 daily • Betel Ejecutivo @ 4244140 ° Mar del Plata via Villa María and Buenos Aires • CACORBA @ 4299630/1/2 ° Asunción (Paraguay) via Resistencia and Formosa; 5 weekly ° Belén via Villa Carlos Paz, La Falda, La Rioja and Tinogasta ° Buenos Aires via Bell Ville; 2 services daily ° Tucumán via Jesús María, Villa Ojo de Agua, and Santiago del Estero; 1–2 daily • COLTA SACIF @ 4221951 ° Embalse via Villa General Belgrano, Santa Rosa de Calamuchita, and Villa del Dique • Coop La Calera @ 4233059 ° La Calera via Argüello, Sorrento, Saldán, and Dumesnil ° Cruz del Eje via La Calera • Costera Criolla @ 4226160/4234100 COTAP, local 39 @ 4210055 ° Villa de Soto via Córdoba, Villa Carlos Paz, Villa García, and Tanti; 1–2 daily • El Petizo @ 4224271 ° Villa Dolores via Villa Carlos Paz, Tanti, Los Gigantes, Taninga, Salsacate, Villa Viso, Villa Cura Brochero, Mina Clavero, Nono, Lago La Viña, Las Rabonas, Los Hornillos, and Villa Las Rosas; 2 services daily ° Villa Dolores via Villa Carlos Paz, Copina, Pampa de Achala, Mina Clavero, Nono, Lago La Viña, Las Rabonas Los Hornillos, Villa Las Rosas, and Mina Clavero; 2 services daily

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CÓRDOBA Buses from Córdoba — continued • • • • • • •

• • •

• • • •

•

El Práctico, local 21C @ 4225160 ° Santa Fe via Córdoba and San Francisco El Rápido Internacional @ 4239199 El Santiagueño @ 4248990 ° Buenos Aires ° Tucumán via Santiago del Estero and Termas de Río Hondo; 1 daily El Serrano @ 4229751 ° Capilla del Monte via Villa Carlos Paz; 1 service daily ° Paraná via San Francicso, Rafaela, Santa Fe, Corrientes; 3–6 weekly El Triunfo ° Neuquén via Río Tercero and Río Cuarto, ° Santiago del Estero Empresa Salles @ 4254374 ° Catamarca via Frías; 1 daily Empresa de Transporte Morteros, local 62 @ 4252166 ° Rafaela via San Francisco ° Miramar via Monte Cristo, Piquillín, Río Primero, Santa Rosa del Río Primero, Santiago Temple, Arroyito, El Tío, and Balnearia; 3 daily Empresa El Litoral @ 4256364 ° Paraná via Córdoba and Santa Fe; 2 daily Empresa Mar Chiquita ° San Francisco Expreso Córdoba-Mar del Plata @ 4226979 ° Mar del Plata via Alta Gracia, Almafuerte, Río Tercero, La Carlota, (Venado Tuerto), Pergamino, and Buenos Aires (13 hrs!) and La Plata; 2 daily ° San Juan (8 hrs) via Villa Carlos Paz, La Falda, Cruz del Eje, Villa de Soto, Chepes, Vallecito, and Caucete; 1 daily ° San Luis (61 2 hrs) via Almafuerte, Río Cuarto, and Villa Mercedes; 1 daily Expreso Panamericano ° La Quiaca (Bolivian Border) via Santiago del Estero, Termas de Río Hondo, Tucumán, Salta, and Jujuy; 1 daily Expreso Singer @ 4226273 ° Puerto Iguazú (26 hrs) via Santa Fe, Paraná, Paso de los Libres, and Posadas; 1 daily Expreso Uspallata @ 4253066 ° Mendoza via Merlo and San Luis; 1–2 daily ° San Rafael via San Luis; 1–2 daily General Urquiza Local 8 @ 4210711 ° Ascochinga (21 4 hrs) via Villa Allende, Unquillo, Río Ceballos, and Salsipuedes; 1 daily ° Buenos Aires via Villa María, Leones, and Rosario; 2–3 services daily ° Catamarca (6 hrs) via Jesús María and Déan Funes; 3 daily ° Chilecito (81 4 hrs) via Villa Carlos Paz, Cosquín, La Falda, Cruz del Eje, Villa del Soto, Chamical, Patquia, and Vichigasta; 2 daily ° La Rioja (6 hrs) via Chamical and Patquia; 3 daily ° Los Cocos (23 4 hrs) via Villa Carlos Paz, Cosquín, Valle Hermoso, La Falda, Huerta Grande, Villa Giardino, La Cumbre, Cruz Chica, and Cruz Grande; 6–7 daily La Quebrada SRL @ 4228119 ° Río Ceballos via Argüello, Villa Allende, and Unquillo; 2 daily

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PAMPA PROVINCES Buses from Córdoba — continued •

• • • •

• • • • • • •

• •

La Veloz del Norte @ 4243307 ° Buenos Aires ° Salvador Mazza (Bolivian border) via Tucumán, Rosario de la Frontera, Metán, Salta, Jujuy, Libertador San Martín, and Tartagal Malvinas Argentinas @ 4212071 ° Pilar via Río Segundo, Ñandú del Sur @ 4235892 ° Bahía Blanca Ortiz ° Río Gallegos; 4 weekly Pampa de Achala ° Mina Clavero via Villa Carlos Paz, Cosquín, La Falda, Villa Giardino, La Cumbre, Capilla del Monte, Cruz del Eje, Villa de Soto, La Higuera, and Villa Cura Brochero; 2 daily ° Mina Clavero via Villa Carlos Paz, Tanti, Los Gigantes, Las Chacras, Villa Viso, El Mirador, Los Azulejos, and Villa Cura Brochero ° Villa Dolores via Villa Carlos Paz, Copina, Mina Clavero, Lago La Viña, Nono, and Los Hornillos S.A.T.A.G ° Alta Gracia Servicio Diferencial Capilla del Monte ° Capilla del Monte Sierras Cordobesas ° Capilla del Monte via Villa General Paz ° Río Cuarto via Alta Gracia Sierras de Calamuchita @ 4226080 ° Villa del Dique via Cruce Alta Gracia, Anizacate, Villa Ciudad de América, Villa General Belgrano, Santa Rosa de Calamuchita, and Villa Rumipal SOCASA ° San Juan; 1 daily T.A.C. @ 4216534 ° Mendoza via Río Cuarto and San Luis; 2 daily T.A. Chevallier ° Bell Ville via Villa María; 3 daily ° Capilla del Monte via Villa Carlos Paz, Bialet Massé, Cosquín, Valle Hermoso, La Falda, Huerta Grande, La Cumbre, Cruz Chica, Cruz Grande, Los Cocos, and San Estebán; 1 daily ° Cruz del Eje via Villa Carlos Paz, Tanti, Cosquín, Valle Hermoso, La Falda, Huerta Grande, Villa Giardino, La Cumbre, Los Cocos, and Capilla del Monte; 2 daily ° Río Cuarto via Almafuerte; 1 daily ° Rosario via Arias and Villa María; 3–4 daily ° Salsipuedes via Río Ceballos; 1 daily ° Villa de Soto via Cruz del Eje; 1 daily Transporte La Cumbre @ 4247508 ° San Juan via San Luis and Mendoza TUS/TUP @ 4299510 ° Bahía Blanca (15 hrs) via Alta Gracia, Santa Rosa de Calamuchita, Almafuerte, Berrotarán, Río Cuarto, and Santa Rosa; 1–3 daily ° Bariloche via Río Cuarto, Santa Rosa (La Pampa), and Neuquén; 1–2 daily

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PAMPA PROVINCES Buses from Córdoba — continued Mercado Sur Terminal The Córdoba Terminal de Minibus “Mercado Sud” is on Bulevar Illia 155 opposite Pasaje Antun. Bus companies • Antártida Argentina ° Pilar via Río Segundo • Dean Funes Servicio diferencial @ 4256129 • El Tatu Carretero @ 4236335 • Empresa Villa María ° Villa María • Sierras Vanns @ 4243810 Services • Alta Gracia ($1.50; 1 hr) @ 455541; 40 daily day and night • Bialet Massé @ 4256129; 16 daily • Capilla del Monte ($5.70; 3 hrs) @ 424582/4243810; 29 daily • Cerro Colorado @ 4255533; 3 per week • Cosquín ($4.00 11 2hrs) @ 4256129; 16 daily • Cruz del Eje (41 4 hrs) @ 456180; 30 daily • Déan Funes ($6.60; 21 4 hrs) @ 4256129; 30 daily • El Chañar @ 4245610 • Frías (S del Estero) @ 4236335 • Jesús María ($3.50;1 hour) @ 4555333; 16 daily • Laboulaye @ 456129; 5 daily • La Cumbre ($4.60; 21 2 hrs) @ 4243810; 29 daily • La Cumbrecita @ 452854; • La Falda ($3.50 ; 2 hrs) @ 4243810; 40 daily; • La Rinconada @ 4236335 • Mina Clavero ($11.00; 6 hrs) @ 4236335; 17 daily • Río Cuarto @ 4221161; 30 daily (3 hrs) • Río Segundo @ 4254751 • Salsacate @ 4236744 • Villa Carlos Paz (3 4 hrs) @ 4244332/4241586; 40 daily day and night • Villa de María del Río Seco @ 4245610; 10 daily • Villa General Belgrano ($5.50; 2 hrs) @ 4252854; 17 daily • Villa María (21 4 hrs) @ 4236335 • Villa Tulumba @ 4256129; 5 daily Bus terminal on Entre Ríos 358 Services • Arroyito @ 4257874 • Balnearia @ 4257874 • Colonia Caroya @ 454735; 17 daily • Cosquín ($4.00; 11 2 hrs) @ 4217477 • Déan Funes @ 4222155 • Despeñaderos @ 4257400 • Jesús María ($3.50; 1 hour) @ 4254737 • La Calera @ 4259264; 30 daily • Mina Clavero ($10.00; 4 hrs) @ 4254390; • Miramar @ 4257874; 6 daily • Río Primero @ 217477 • Río Tercero (11 2 hrs) @ 4237550; 34 daily • Santa Rosa de Calamuchita ($6.00; 21 2 hrs) @ 4254390; 17 daily

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PAMPA PROVINCES Buses from Córdoba — continued • Tanti (11 2 hrs) @ 4257874; 5 daily • Villa Carlos Paz (3 4 hour) @ 4257874 • Villa del Totoral @ 4251622; 23 daily • Villa General Belgrano ($5.50; 2 hrs) @ 4254390 • Villa María (21 4 hrs) @ 4237550; 16 daily • Villa Tulumba @ 4222155; 5 daily Bus terminal on Bulevar San Juan 32/50 • Coord. San Francisco ° San Francisco via Río Primero, Arroyito, La Francia, and Devoto; 2 daily Other provincial bus services departing from Bulevar San Juan 32/50 • Berrotarán @ 4221161; 17 daily • Bialet Massé @ 4221161 • Cosquín ($4.00; 11 2 hrs) @ 4221161 • Huerta Grande @ 4221161 • Jesús María ($3.50; 1 hour) • Las Varillas @ 4221161 • Oliva @ 4221161; 16 daily • Oncativo @ 4221161; 16 daily • Río Cuarto (3 hrs) @ 4221161 • Río Tercero (11 2 hrs) @ 4221161 • San Francisco @ 4221161; 23 daily • Santa Rosa de Calamuchita ($6.00; 21 2 hrs) @ 4221161 • Valle Hermoso @ 4221161 • Villa General Belgrano ($5.50; 2 hrs) @ 4262626 Companies with own terminal • Coata, Ave. Madrid 2358 @ 4239133 ° Laboulaye via Toledo, Pilar, Oncativo, Villa María, La Carlota, and Ruíz Díaz de Guzmán • Empresa Córdoba SRL, Dr. Sabatini 2297 @ 4552129 ° Córdoba, Bell Ville, Marcos Juárez • Microbus Sol, Entre Ríos 344 @ 4254737 ° Jesús María • Servicio Diferencial Panaholma; Chacabuco 150 @ 4233958 ° Villa Dolores ($11.40, 5 hrs) via Mina Clavero; 17 daily Bus companies with local itineraries operating from main terminal • Ciudad de Córdoba @ 4236696 ° Bell Ville via Ferreyra, Toledo, Río Segundo, Pilar, Laguna Larga, Oncativo, James Craik, Villa María, Morrison; 2 daily ° Déan Funes via Guiñazú, Jesús María, Sarmiento, Villa del Totoral, and Villa Tulumba; 2 daily ° La Granja via Argüello, Villa Allende, Aeropuerto Pajas Blancas, Unquillo, Río Ceballos, Salsipuedes, El Manzano, Agua de Oro; 3 daily ° San José de la Dormida via Guiñazú, Jesús María, Sarmiento, Villa del Totoral, Las Peñas, and Simbolar • Contal ° Mina Clavero via Villa Carlos Paz, Copina, and Pampa de Achala ° Mina Clavero via Villa Carlos Paz, Cosquín, La Falda, La Cumbre, Capilla del Monte, Cruz del Eje, Villa de Soto, La Higuera, and Villa Cura Brochero; 2 daily ° Mina Clavero via Villa Carlos Paz, Tanti, Los Gigantes, Las Chacras, Villa Viso, El Mirador, via Villa Cura Brochero; 2 daily

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CÓRDOBA Buses from Córdoba — continued •

Coord. Valle de Punilla ° Cruz del Eje via Villa Carlos Paz, Cosquín, La Falda, Huerta Grande, Villa Giardino, La Cumbre, Cruz Chica, Cruz Grande and Capilla del Monte ° La Cumbre via Argüello, Villa Allende, Unquillo, Río Ceballos, El Cuadrado, and La Falda; 2 daily ° Los Cocos via Argüello, Villa Allende, Pan de Azúcar, Molinari, Valle Hermoso, and La Falda ° San Marcos Sierra via Villa Carlos Paz, Cosquín, La Falda, Huerta Grande, Villa Giardino, La Cumbre, Capilla del Monte, and Camino de las Cornisas ° La Cumbre via Jesús María and Ascochinga; 2 daily ° Bialet Massé via Yocsina, Villa Carlos Paz, and Parque Siquimán • E.P.A. ° Villa Dolores via Villa Carlos Paz, Tanti, Los Gigantes, Taninga, Villa Cura Brochero, Mina Clavero, Nono, Lago La Viña, Los Hornillos, and Villa Las Rosas ° Villa Dolores via Villa Carlos Paz, Villa Icho Cruz, Copina, El Cóndor, Pampa de Achala, La Posta, Villa Cura Brochero, Mina Clavero, Nono, Lago La Viña, Las Rabonas, and Villa las Rosas • La Carlota ° Arías via Pilar, Oncativo, Oliva, and Villa María • La Vitoria @ 4226985 ° Río Tercero via Despeñaderos, San Agustín, and Almafuerte • Los Obreros @ 4227268 ° Río Tercero via Despeñadores, San Agustín, and Almafuerte • T.O.A. ° Anizacate via Alta Gracia ° La Cruz via Despeñaderos, San Agustín, Almafuerte, Embalse, and Centro Nuclear ° La Paisanita via Alta Gracia, Anizacate, La Serranita ° La Serranita via Valle de Calamuchita ° Villa del Dique via Alta Gracia, Anizacate, Villa Ciudad de América, Dique Los Molinos, Villa General Belgrano, Santa Rosa de Calamuchita, and Villa Rumipal ° Villa General Belgrano via Alta Gracia, Anizacate, and Villa Ciudad de América • 20 de Junio ° Mina Clavero via Villa Carlos Paz, Cosquín, La Falda, La Cumbre, Capilla del Monte, Cruz del Eje, Villa de Soto, La Higuera, and Villa Cura Brochero; 2 daily ° Villa Dolores via Villa Carlos Paz, Copina, Pampa de Achala, Mina Clavero, Nono, Lago La Viña, Las Rabonas, Los Hornillos, and Villa Las Rosas ° Villa Dolores via Villa Carlos Paz, Tanti, Los Gigantes, Las Chacras, Taninga, Villa Viso, El Mirador, Los Azulejos, Villa Cura Brochero, Mina Clavero, Nono, Lago La Viña, Los Hornillos, and Villa Las Rosas Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Asunción $55.00 Bariloche $105.00 Buenos Aires $40.00 Caleta Olivia $90.00 Catamarca $20.00 Corrientes $50.00 Formosa $48.40 Gualeguaychú $38.00 Jujuy La Rioja $12.00

Duration 18 hrs 22 hrs 10 hrs 6 hrs 15 hrs 11 hrs 14 hrs

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PAMPA PROVINCES Buses from Córdoba — continued • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Mar del Plata $46.20 Mendoza $35.00 Neuquén $72.00 Paraná $21.00 Paso de los Libres $45.10 Posadas $43.00 Puerto Madryn $72.00 Resistencia $42.90 Río Gallegos $120.00 Rosario $20.00 Salta $54.00 San Juan $25.00 San Luis $19.00 San Martín de los Andes $94.00 Santa Fe $18.00 Santa Rosa (La Pampa) $26.40 Santiago del Estero $20.00 Trelew $78.00 Tucumán $24.50 Zapala $72.70

8 hrs 18 hrs

191 2 hrs 18 hrs 13 hrs 6 hrs 12 hrs 8 hrs 6 hrs 25 hrs 61 2 hrs 10 hrs 61 2 hrs 81 2 hrs 2 weekly

suburb of Cerro de las Rosas near the Circunvalación. It holds 4700 spectators. • Golf: Jockey Club Córdoba Golf, Camino a San Antonio KM 4 @ 4602263/442230/4221193; 9 holes Sport in Villa San Miguel • Golf: San Miguel Golf Club @ 465943

•

•

p Sightseeing

The focal point of the city is Plaza San Martín, with the statue of the “Liberator”, San Martín. Public buildings • The old Cabildo (City Council) building, on the western side of the Plaza, was the center of public life in colonial times and is now the provincial police headquarters. It was built by Juan Manuel López in 1785 during the reign of viceroy Marqués de Sobremonte • Biblioteca de Córdoba, 27 de Abril 375. Completed in 1889. It was seat of the Provincial legislature until 1950 • Teatro del Libertador, Avenida Vélez Sarsfield 351. Built by the Italian Francisco Tamburini in 1891. Contains also the Museo de la Música y el

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Teatro (Museum of Music and Theater) The Universidad Mayor de San Marcos (St Mark’s University), also called “Colegio Máximo”, is located next to La Compañía in Trejo 242. It was administered by the Jesuits from 1600 until their expulsion in 1767 La Casa del Obispo Mercadillo (Home of Bishop Mercadillo), Rosario de Santa Fe 39. This is the remainder of the building which was the home of Bishop Mercadillo when he relocated the bishopric from Tucumán to Córdoba in 1698. The most outstanding piece is the balcony which is made from hammered steel Casa Matriz del Banco de la Provincia de Córdoba, San Jerónimo 166. Built by the Italian Francisco Tamburini in 1889 as headquarters for the bank. Now it serves as a museum and exhibition center Jardín Zoológico (Zoo), in Parque Sarmiento, has a reptile house and a small waterfall Observatorio Astronómico de Córdoba (Córdoba Astronomical

CÓRDOBA the founders. San Francisco Solano and Fray Mamerto Esquiú spent some time here • Iglesia del Pilar (Church of the Pillar), corner of Avenida Olmos and Avenida Maipú. This was the seat of the Order of the Santa Hermandad which assisted those who were condemned to death. The most famous members were Déan Funes and governor Marqués de Sobremonte • Monasterio de Santa Catalina (St Catherine’s Convent), corner of Obispo Trejo and Déan Funes. Founded in 1613 by Bishop Trejo • Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón (Church of the Sacred Heart), corner of Buenos Aires and Yrigoyen. The neo-gothic church was built in 1933 and is worth a visit • Cripta, Avenida Colón near Rivera Indarte. Discovered in 1989, this was the Jesuit noviciado Museums • Museo Casa del Virrey Sobremonte (Museum and Home of Viceroy Sobremonte), Calle Rosario de Santa Fe 218 (corner of Ituzaingó), east of the central Plaza. It may well be considered the most beautiful colonial house remaining in Córdoba. Built by Don José Rodríguez around 1750 it was the viceregal home of the Marqués de Sobremonte until 1796, and now houses the Museo Provincial de Historia Marqués de Sobremonte (Marquise of Sobremonte Provincial History Museum). On exhibit are historical documents, medieval weapons, and furniture. Open Tues–Fri 08:30–13:00, 15:00–19:30, and Sat and Sun 09:00–12:00 • Museo de Ciencias Naturales “B Mitre” (B Mitre Natural Sciences Museum), Avenida Yrigoyen 115 is open Mon–Fri 08:30–12:30 and 14:30–18:30 and Sat and Sun 09:00–12:00 • Museo Mineralógico (Mineralogy Museum): There is a very interesting and well laid out museum of mineralogy at the Universidad de Ciencias Exactas (University of Physical Sciences) • Museo Provincial de Belles Artes “Emilio Caraffa” (Emilio Caraffa

Observatory), south end of Calle General Artigas Churches Churches are open in the mornings and after 16:00 in the afternoon. • La Catedral (Cathedral), on the Plaza, was begun in 1697 and consecrated in 1782. It is the most important example of colonial architecture in Córdoba. It is in the baroque style but shows strong Indian influences which makes it unique in the Americas. The paintings inside are by Octavio Pinto, Emilio Caraffa, and Genaro Pérez, and on the portico there is a noteworthy wrought-iron trellis depicting angels blowing trumpets. The Cathedral is the resting place of Generals Paz and Déan Funes and the chapel of the Virgen de Nieva is the resting place of Fray Mamerto Esquiú, one of the apostles of America • Iglesia y Convento de Santa Teresa (Church and Convent of Santa Teresa), Calle Independencia 122, between Caseros and 27 de Abril. It was founded in 1628 by Juan de Tejeda, the first native Argentine poet, and now houses the Museo de Arte Religioso (Museum of Religious Art). It has a beautiful doorway built in 1770 • Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús (Jesuit Church), Calle Trejo 242 near of Caseros, dates from about 1650. Paraguayan cedar was used to construct the vault and the cupola • Basílica de Santo Domingo, corner of Avenida Vélez Sarsfield and Déan Funes • Basílica de la Merced (Church of Mercy), north of Plaza San Martín on the corner of Calle Rivadavia and 25 de Mayo. Building began in 1600 and was completed in 1826. The old colonial pulpit is well worth seeing. • Capilla San Roque (St Roque’s Chapel), corner of Calle Obispo Salguero and San Jerónimo. This chapel has strong reinforced walls on the outside • Iglesia San Francisco (St Francis’ Church), corner of Plazoleta Buenos Aires and Entre Ríos. It was built between 1795 and 1813. In the vicinity are the graves of the descendants of 274

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PAMPA PROVINCES •

Provincial Fine Arts Museum), the theatre and the Olmos school are near the Plaza Vélez Sarsfield Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes “Genaro Pérez” (Genaro Pérez Municipal Fine Arts Museum), Avenida General Paz 33. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–13:00

• •

s Excursions Tour operators • Excursiones Calamuchita, Tucumán 227 @ 4238256 fax 4214381 • Grupo Atrevete, Agustín 230 844284 fax 4258078; ecotourism, trekking. Contact: Sr. Ricardo Santiago Sarnago • Tincunaco, Fructuoso Rivera 145 Dpto 1; @ 44215173. Contact: Sr. Jorge Lima. Trekking • Trekking Turismo Alternativo, Ave. 24 de Septiembre 1421. Contact: Sr.Santiago Valinotti @ 4685193/4515756. Horse-riding, trekking, rafting • Viajes Aeroturis, Olmos 351 @ 4229294 fax 4212777 • Voler Ecole, Gustavo J. J. Lallana @ 4814265 fax 4244377. Parachute gliding from Cerro la Campana near La Calera Excursions • Reserva Recreativa El Diquecito. The 3000 ha (7413 acres) include the Quebrada del Río Suquía from the rivers exit at Lago San Roque to the Diquecito. The area is forested and there are superb vistas just following

•

the road. RP E55 leading from Córdoba to the Punilla forms the border. This area has the oldest hydroelectric plants in Córdoba Province Candonga, Río Ceballos and Salsipuedes; see page 301 and page 306 Dique San Roque: This great dam protects the city from flooding, regulates the flow of the Río Primero, provides drinking water and electrical power, feeds two large irrigation systems, and forms a blue lake ringed by hills which has become a tourist resort Cosquín: A round trip from Córdoba to Cosquín and back again via Cerro Pan de Azúcar and the eastern side of Lago San Roque can be made by public transport in one day. The bus travels through Argüello, Villa Allende, and Villa Alegre, then enters the Cerro Pan de Azúcar pass road which winds through the mountains for 27 km before descending again into the Punilla valley near Cosquín. The highest point, 1250 m, is reached near Cerro Pan de Azúcar (Cosquín is at about 1000 m). The return to Córdoba can be made on a La Calera bus directly via Bialet Massé and Calera along the eastern side of Lago San Roque following the Río Primero, which starts at the dam. Alternatively you could go via Villa Carlos Paz; see Buses above. See also Cosquín below

COSQUÍN

Cosquín Population: 17 500 Postal code: 5166 @ area code: (03541) Altitude: 720 m Distance from Córdoba: 63 km north-west

C

osquín is located in the Punilla valley at the foot of the Cerro Pan de Azúcar (1260 m). There are easy walks in the beautiful surroundings. Cosquín is much frequented by Argentine tourists. The center of town is Plaza

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CÓRDOBA C Accommodation in Cosquín Hotels *** *** * * * * * * * *

Gran Sierras, San Martín 733 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY La Puerta del Sol, Buenos Aires 820 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 452046 Alexmar, San Martín 602 near Catamarca AELPV Carlitos, Juan B Justo 438 AELPV El Lago, Avenida General Paz AELPV Fax 4228051 Folklore, F Sánchez 688 AELPV Ideal, Buenos Aires 1159 AELPV Menorca, A Sabattini 662 AELPV Puerto de Cádiz, San Martín 148 AELPV San Gregori, San Martín 1456 AELPV

Hosterías * * *

Del Valle, San Martín 340 Mary, Obispo Oro 545 Pardo, San Martín 1469

AELPV AELPV AELPV

@ @

452261 451626

$F $D

2 2

@ @

451322 451165

$G $G

2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @

451542 452081 453043 451125 451299 452188

$G $G $G $F $G $G

2 2 2 2 2 2

@ @ @

452802 452095 452055

$G $G $G

2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @

453062 451222 452681 451473 452255 451306

$H

2

$H $H $H

2 2 2

@ @ @

451306 451114 451311

$H $G $G

2 2 2

Residenciales

A Ale, Tucumán 809 LP A Cerros Dorados, Avenida San Martín near San Luis LP A Cosquín, Tucumán 692 A El Remanso, General Paz 38 EFLP A Estelita, Catamarca 120 EFLP A Italia, Ternengo near Vertiz EFLP A La Casona, Pedro Ortiz 740 LP A La Serrana, Ortiz 740 LP Near bus station; shared bathroom cheaper A Palermo, San Martín 440 ELP A Petit Hotel, Sabattini 739 LP

Próspero Molina, the venue for the Fiesta Nacional del Folklore and Festival a Todo Tango.

A Festivals

E Eating out

A folk festival is held during the last half of January.

Restaurants • Il Nonno, Salta near Tucumán • La Puerta del Sol, Presidente. Perón 820 • Raffaello, Avenida San Martín 730. Pizzería • Saint Jean, Avenida San Martín 200. Parrilla • San Marino, San Martín 715. Parrilla Cafeterías • Eros, Avenida San Martín 885. Dancing • Munich, Avenida San Martín near Sarmiento. Dancing • Nueva Confitería Réal, Presidente Perón 880

B Tourist information • •

Secretaría de Turismo, Tucumán near Sarmiento @ 452333 Información Turística, San Martín 560 @ 451105

D Camping • •

Caravana, López y Planes AFLT in a forested area; capacity 60 tents Río Cosquín, on the Pan de Azúcar Road on the banks of the river in a forested area AFL capacity 100 tents

276

Cosquín

PAMPA PROVINCES • •

•

Revien’s, Avenida San Martín 845. Dancing Via Veneto, block 800 near Dr. J.C. Jerónimo

T Trains

I Post and telegraph • •

The tourist train “Tren de las Sierras” goes to Córdoba and to Cruz del Eje.

Post office: Correo Argentino, Tucumán near Catamarca Telephone: Telecom Argentina, Obispo Bustos 570

U Motoring

• •

L Financial •

Banco de la Provincia de Córdoba, Presidente Perón 701

A.C.A., Avenida San Martín 1355 Service station: Esso, San Martín near Corrientes

p Sightseeing

•

M Services and facilities •

T.A. Chevallier runs services to long distance destinations. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267

Laundromat: Laverap, Buenos Aires 385

S Buses

Most buses to Córdoba go via Villa Carlos Paz taking the road on the western side of Lago San Roque (RN 20), but some turn east at Bialet Massé and follow the eastern side of Lago San Roque, passing by the dam and following the Río Primero. • ABLO, Perón @ 451294 • CACORBA @ 459570 • Contal, Coord. Valle de Punilla, Costera Criolla Pampa de Achala and 20 de Junio run at least 10 services daily to and from Córdoba and to destinations in the Punilla

Iglesia Nuestra Señora del Rosario, San Martín on Plaza Próspero Molina. The building dates from the late nineteenth century. Inside is a baptismal font made by local Indians. The altar dates from the eighteenth century

s Excursions

•

•

Cerro Pan de Azúcar: From here you get a good view over the Punilla valley. Buses run 09:30–16:30; take the chair lift or walk for two hours to the top Capilla San José (St Joseph’s Chapel): 13 km east, on the road to Tanti. Built in 1670

CRUZ DEL EJE

Cruz del Eje Postal code: 5280 @ area code: (03549) Altitude: 476 m Distance from Córdoba: 151 km north-west on RN 38

C

ruz del Eje is located in the north-western part of the province. It is the center of an olive-growing area, with more than a million olive trees in the vicinity. Cotton and grapes are also grown. During the summer vacation the nearby artificial lake Embalse Cruz del Eje attracts many tourists for water sports and pejerrey fishing. The drive to Cruz del Eje from Córdoba through the Sierras de Córdoba is very scenic.

Cruz del Eje

Alternatively take the tourist train “Tren de las Sierras” from Córdoba.

277

CÓRDOBA A Festivals •

daily to and from Córdoba and in the Punilla; T.A. Chevallier has long distance services. See also Buses from Córdoba on page 267

Fiesta Nacional del Olivo (National Olive Festival): Second week in February

U Motoring

B Tourist information •

•

Secretaría Municipal de Turismo

C Accommodation

a Sport

Hotel España, Alsina 115 near Caseros AEFGHLMPTUVY @ 422702 $G 2. Fax 4228051 A Residencial Centro, Echenique 80 LP @ 423161

*

There are fishing and aquatic sports at Cruz del Eje dam, 5 km outside town. The dam is 3 km long. Around the lake many sports and fishing clubs have created facilities.

Accommodation outside Cruz del Eje ** Motel Posta de las Carretas, R Moyano near Echenique AEFGJLPUV @ 422517 $G 2. Fax 4228051

s Excursions

Cruz del Eje is a good starting point for excursions into the northern Sierras de Córdoba, to Capilla del Monte. There are frequent bus services. • La Cumbre: RN 38 initially ascends gently towards the Sierras Chicas, reaching 949 m at Capilla del Monte. Cerro Uritorco (1950 m), the highest mountain of the Sierras Chicas, comes into view in the east. In the west is the Sierra de Cuniputo, slightly lower, with its highest peak Cerro Pencales at 1300 m. See also La Cumbre on page 283

E Eating out •

Restaurant El Cordón, Sarmiento. Parrilla

M Services and facilities •

Service station: A.C.A., corner of Rivadavia and Sarmiento

Laundromat: Laverap, Alvear 321

S Buses

There is a central bus terminal. • ABLO, J. Hernández 72 @ 423399 • La Calera, J. Hernández 72 @ 424075 and Coord. Valle de Punilla, Pampa de Achala have at least 10 services

DÉAN FUNES

Déan Funes Postal code: 5200 @ area code: (03521) Altitude: 690 m Distance from Córdoba: 124 km north on RN 9 and RN 60

D

éan Funes is located in the north-western part of the province on the main road to Catamarca (RN 60). Fifty kilometers further north the huge Salinas Grandes begin. The original name during the Spanish colonial period was Posta de los Algarrobos, a staging post on the Camino Real.

B Tourist information

• •

E Eating out

•

•

•

Oficina de Turismo, Santa Fe 179 @ 420967 fax 420921

Comedor Miguelito, Italia 66 Cafetería Terminal. Open 24 hours

I Post and telegraph

Restaurant La Cartuja, Rivadavia

278

Post office: Correo Argentino, corner of Sáenz Peña and Rivadavia

Déan Funes

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Déan Funes Hotels ** *

San Jorge, España 88 near Buenos Aires Open December–March AEFGJLPUV Bonaro, Rivadavia 171 AELPV

@ @

421174 420883

$F

2

@ @ @

421477 421135 421477

$H

2

$H

2

@

420223

$H

2

Residenciales

A El Chino, Mitre 295 near Santa Fe 444 opposite rail station EFLP A Martínez, Santa Fe 430 EFLP A San Martín, 25 de Mayo 310, on Plaza San Martín LP A Santa Fe (Levis), Santa Fe 291 near Italia Shared bathroom cheaper LP

•

•

Telephone: Telecom, corner of Cabrera and Rivadavia, on the Plaza San Martín

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Cabrera. • Ciudad de Córdoba runs daily local services to and from Córdoba • CACORBA and T.A. Chevallier run local and long-distance services • Empresa Robledo runs daily services to Catamarca (6 hrs). For details see Buses from Córdoba on page 267

U Motoring

•

RP 16 passes over the Punilla on its way to the junction with RN 9 at San José de la Dormida. Once the highest point is reached it is fairly flat country until Villa Tulumba, where the road descends again. Service stations • A.C.A., corner of Rivadavia and Sarmiento • Esso, corner of 9 de Julio and Italia (on the Plaza) • Y.P.F., corner of Rivadavia and Sáenz Peña

T Trains

The station is on Mitre opposite Santa Fe. Here the tourist train from Córdoba terminates.

s Excursions •

Cruz del Eje: RP 16 skirts the spurs of the Sierras de Córdoba on the southern side, staying in flat country throughout. To the north are the Salinas Grandes

Déan Funes

279

Villa Tulumba is a little forgotten colonial town some 20 km west on RP 16. On the way you pass Inti Huasi the site of archeological discoveries. It is possible to use local transport which continues past Tulumba to San José de la Durmida on RN 9 the main highway to Santiago del Estero. From San José de la Dormida you can go by bus to Santa Elena, the turnoff to the important archeological site of Cerro Colorado. Note: On my last trip there I walked it from the main highway to Cerro Colorado and back The triangle formed by Cruz del Eje in the west, Villa del Totoral in the east and Dean Funes in the north is one of the least accessible areas in the Punilla. It not only incorporates a mountainous area with rivers cascading through the valleys but also desert landscapes: RP 16 from Cruz del Eje to Déan Funes skirts the mountains and goes through edges of the Salinas Grandes. Many rivers cascading down the western slopes disappear long before they reach the actual salina. It certainly does not help the natural flow of the waters that many rivers such as the Río Cruz del Eje are dammed to preserve the precious water. The area was settled by the Comechingones tribes before the arrival of the Spanish. There are archeological sites near Chuña, halfway between Cruz del Eje and Déan Funes, with no tourist facilities. The best-known archeological site is Ongamira, on the road to Villa del Totoral. Copacabana, hidden in the Río Copacabana valley some 35 km

CÓRDOBA interest to the intrepid if not adventurous traveller who does not mind roughing it a bit; bus services into the hidden valleys are scarce, often only once or twice per week

south of Déan Funes, has a colorful celebration in February in honor of Nuestra Señora de Copacabana. The capilla of Nuestra Señora del Rosario del Valle de Ischelín was built in 1706; Ischilín started out as an indigenous encomienda. This area would be of

EMBALSE

Embalse Population: 6800 Postal code: 5856 @ area code: (03571) Altitude: 440 m Distance from Córdoba: 120 km south on RN 36

E

mbalse is the tourist center of a string of lakes created by the damming of the Río Tercero. Many vacation homes and yachting clubs have sprung up around the lake, which is a good place for fishing, swimming, and sailing. The dams are part of a hydroelectric scheme which supplies electricity to industry in Córdoba and irrigation water for the farms in the lowland. Note that there is a nuclear power plant on the south side of Embalse Río Tercero 10 km north of La Cruz.

S Buses •

s Excursions

•

Colta SACIF, H.Yrigoyen 860 @ 485598.Buses run regularly to Córdoba and Río Cuarto

Ruins of the Jesuit Estancia Santos Ejercicios, founded in 1726. Located on RP 23, 7 km south of Santa Rosa de Calamuchita

C Accommodation in Embalse

Note that many of the hotels listed are only open during the summer holiday season. Hotels * *

Cuatro Ases, Ricardo Balbín 104 near 9 de Julio AELPV La Perla, RP 5 KM 711 AELPV

Hosterías **

Hostal del Lago, Cabo Primero Huinca 95 AEFGJLPUV

Residenciales A A A A A A

Aranda, Avenida Comercial Avenida, H. Yrigoyen 174 Feuz, Juan D. Perón 355 (RP 5) García, General Pistarini 324 Gigena, General Pistarini 274 Villa Par, Juan D. Perón 383

LP LP EFLP LP LP LP

Accommodation in El Pueblito * *

Hotel Pino del Lago, Entre Ríos 1530 AELPSV Hostería Dolard AELPV

Accommodation in Villa Irupé • Hospedaje Irupé

LP

280

@ @

485401 485222

$G $G

2 2

@

485213

@ @ @ @ @ @

485282 485549 485268 485217 485265 485428

$H $G $H $H

2 2 2 2

@ @

485238 485246

$H

2

@

485232

$G

2

Embalse

PAMPA PROVINCES

HUINCA RENANCÓ

Huinca Renancó Postal code: 6270 @ area code: (03336) Distances From Río Cuarto 320 km south on RN 35 • From Realicó (La Pampa province): 26 km north on RN 35 •

H

uinca Renancó is an important east–west north–south road junction at the extreme southern point of the province. To the north of town are extensive swamp areas which is the final destination of the Río Quinto. It is the gateway to La Pampa province.

C Accommodation

A

Hotel Los Vascos, H Yrigoyen 220 AEFGJLPUV @ 442283 $F 2 A Hospedaje Betty, Santa Fe 296 HLP A Hospedaje Petit Colón, A N Aguado 25 ELP @ 442442 $H 2. Shared bathroom cheaper **

Hospedaje San Salvador, RN 35 KM 526 HLP @ 442518 $H 2

S Buses

Buses run regularly to Río Cuarto and Realicó.

JESÚS MARÍA

Jesús María Population: 23 000 Postal code: 5220 @ area code: (03525) Altitude: 530 m Distance from Córdoba: 51 km north on RN 9

J

esús María is situated on the Río Ascochinga on the eastern side of the Sierras Chicas.

In pre-Hispanic time it was an Indian village by the name of Guanuscate. The origin of the modern town was a Jesuit estancia founded in the middle of the seventeenth century; in the former convent building is the Museo Jesuítico. There is good fishing in the streams which come down from the Sierras Chicas. Sinsacate, 4 km north off the main road, was an important staging post on the road to Alto Perú during colonial times. The chapel

Huinca Renancó

and the old inn have been converted into a rural museum. Also described here is the nearby town of Colonia Caroya, which almost merges with Jesús María. This was part of the Jesuit land holding; its Jesuit Chapel has been preserved. Colonia Coroya was colonized by Friulanos from northern Italy from 1878 onwards. The main economic activity centers around grape harvesting. Empresa Ciudad de Córdoba runs direct services to Jesús María taking 20 minutes; from

281

CÓRDOBA E Eating out

there are frequent daily connections to Córdoba. Jesús María is the center of an interesting colonial past: this was the heartland of the Jesuit missionary and “civilizing” activity in Córdoba Province, and many buildings of this great past still remain. It is also on the trail of the former Spanish colonial highway linking Córdoba with Alto Perú.

•

I Post and telegraph

• •

The bus terminal is on Belgrano 590 @ 423900. • Ciudad de Córdoba and Coord. Valle de Punilla run 9 daily services to and from Córdoba • CACORBA besides local services also runs long-distance services. For details see Buses from Córdoba on page 267

•

Festival de Doma y Folklore: First half of January Festivals in Colonia Caroya • Fiesta Provincial de la Vendimia (Provincial Grape Harvest Festival) is held in the second week in March

U Motoring

•

B Tourist information

Oficina de Cultura y Turismo Municipal, San Martín near Olmos @ 420176

Service station: A.C.A., corner of RN 9 and Corrientes

s Excursions

•

C Accommodation

Hotel Rizzi, Tucumán 662 AEFGJLPUV @ 420580 $F 2 * Hotel Napoleón, España 675 AELPV @ 421273 $G 2 • Hospedaje del Plata, Tucumán near Colón EFLP @ 421605 $H 2 Accommodation on RN 9 ** Motel La Cabaña del Tío Juan, KM 754 AEFGJLPUV @ 420563 $F 2 **

•

•

D Camping •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Tucumán 510 Telephone: Telecom, San Ignacio de Loyola 455

S Buses

A Festivals

•

Parrilla El Faro

La Cumbre: Scenic drive or bus trip via Ascochinga. See La Cumbre on page 283 Estancia Santa Catalina: 38 km north. This Jesuit ranch was the most important foundation of the Jesuits in Córdoba province Those interested in colonial history may want to visit the nearby villages and towns of Villa del Totoral, Villa Tulumba and Villa de María del Río Seco which are on the former Camino Real the colonial link to Alto Perú

Municipal Los Nogales, on the road t o A s c o c h i n g a , O p e n D e c e mber–March. Restaurant

LA CARLOTA

La Carlota Postal code: 2670 @ area code: (03584) Altitude: 140 m Distances • from Córdoba: 255 km south on RN 8 • from Río Cuarto: 107 km east

282

La Carlota

PAMPA PROVINCES

L

a Carlota is located at the intersection of RN 8 with RP 4 and RP 50. It is a convenient stopover en route to Córdoba and also has in the vicinity several nature reserves. There are accommodation, restaurants, and gas stations.

C Accommodation

Reserva Natural de Fauna La Felipa, is located 45 km north-west of La Carlota on RP 11, 17 km from Ucacha. This 1300 ha (3212 acre) reserve is a swamp brimming with birdlife. There is a caretaker and camping is permitted. Birdlife includes the cosocoroba stork, black necked swans, and herons.

Accommodation on RN 8 • Hospedaje Avenida, H Yrigoyen 155 @ 420644 $H 2 A Residencial Sur, San Martín 348 LP @ 420123 $G 2 * Hostería El Indio, H Yrigoyen 611 AELPV @ 420147 $G 2 • Motel EG 5, RN 8 KM 501 @ 422243

S Buses

There are 7 daily services to and from Córdoba.

LA CUMBRE

La Cumbre Population: 6800 Postal code: 5178 @ area code: (03548) Altitude: 1141 m Distance from Córdoba: 97 km north-west on RN 38

L

a Cumbre is a major tourist resort in the Punilla valley. There are many excellent hotels and restaurants not only in the town center but also on the outskirts. La Cumbre (The Summit) was aptly named by the engineers which built the railway line from Córdoba to Cruz del Eje: it was the highest point. Many of the English employees remained in La Cumbre building their English-style homes which have become a hallmark of the town. This is a place that retains some very English traditions like five o’clock tea and English tea-houses where they serve scones. The streams coming down from the mountains are well-stocked with trout. On the outskirts of town are lavender plantations. There are baths and an 18-hole golf course. It is

La Cumbre

also a hang-gliding center. La Cumbre has an airstrip. Also described here is the charming little town of Cruz Chica, located three km north of La Cumbre in the Sierras Chicas, at 1067 m. Surrounded by pine forests, there are hotels and residenciales for those who like the quieter side of life. It is a good starting point for hikes in the nearby sierra. It is a favorite holiday resort for the British community in Argentina, with an English boys’ school here. There are frequent municipal buses to La Cumbre and also direct buses to Córdoba.

283

CÓRDOBA B Tourist information

This mountainous area is a hiker’s paradise with an easy walking trail linking La Cumbre with Villa Giardino passing the historic Estancia Cuchi Corral.

•

Oficina de Información Turística, Avenida Caraffa 300 @ 451154

E Eating out Restaurants • El Cacique, Rivadavia 115 • Caraffa, Avenida Caraffa near Rivadavia. Parrilla • La Casona del Toboso, Belgrano 349 • La Recova, 25 de Mayo 177

A Festivals

During February a week-long Semana Musical is held with recitals of classical music and popular music.

C Accommodation in La Cumbre Apart Hotels

• La Due Manor, Belgrano 1100

EFGRSV

Cabañas

• Del Golf, Hernández near J.L. Cabrera • Posada San Andrés, Avenida Benítez near Monteagudo S

Hotels *** ** ** * *

Gran Hotel La Cumbre, Posadas Lima, Moreno 480 near Déan Funes Victoria, Posadas near Moreno La Viña, Avenida Caraffa 80 Los Montes, Juan Benítez

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AELPSV AELPV

Hosterías ** ** ** * * * * * *

La Cartuja, Colón 330 AEFGJLPUV Los Mimbres, Runciman AEFGJLPUV Sunny Dale, Boucherville AEFGJLPUV Casablanca, Tucumán 60 AELPV Norita, López y Planes 140 AELPV Plaza, Entre Ríos 538 AELPV Posada de la Sierra, Benítez near Rouillon AELPV Posada Los Cedros, Ave. Argentina AELPV San Martín, López y Planes 174 AELPV

Residenciales

A El Fortín, Rivadavia near General PazLPS A San Antonio, Avenida Caraffa 449 LP

@

451889

$F

1

@

452008 fax

$D

2

@

451165 fax

$D

4

@ @ @ @ @

451550 451727 fax 451412 451388 451167

$F $F $F $H $G

2 2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

451262 451039 451562 452297 451322 451252 451085 fax 451028 451158

$F $E $F $H $H $F $E $E $G

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

@ @

452173 451338

$H $H

2 2

Accommodation in San Estebán San Estebán is located 9 km north of La Cumbre on RN 38 halfway to Capilla del Monte. A Residencial Lux, Pablo Neruda • Residencial San Estebán, Andrada

EFLP

Accommodation in Cruz Chica

• Apart Hotel Los Almendros, Ave. Bmé Jaime Hotel Zapata AEFGJLPUV * HotelLa Fonda de Cruz Chica, Avenida Bmé. Jaime AELPV * Hotel Reydon AELPV Fax 451910; E-mail: [email protected]; English spoken A Residencial El Alcázar de Sevilla EFLP

**

284

@ @

(03548) 494055 (03548) 494017

@ @

451912 fax 492058

$E $F

2 2

@

451055

$H

2

@ @

451056 451108

$E $F

2 2

La Cumbre

PAMPA PROVINCES RIN

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To Córdoba via Ascochinga

Key to map A C D E I T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecentro La Cumbre Oficina de Información Turística Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 2

Hotel La Viña Hostería Norita

3 4 11 12 14 15 16

Hostería San Martín Hotel Los Montes Hostería La Cartuja Hotel Lima Hotel Victoria Gran Hotel La Cumbre Hostería Los Mimbres

4 Eating out 5 6

Restaurant La Casona del Toboso 9 Restaurant La Recova 10 Cafetería Atardeceres

0 Services

7 Laverap 13 Golf Club La Cumbre

Restaurant Figaro Cafetería Hoyo en Uno

Pizzerías • Figaro, Belgrano 250 • Pizza Luis, Rivadavia 267

La Cumbre

8

Cafeterías • Atardeceres, Colón 320 • El Café del Andén, Avenida Caraffa 340

285

CÓRDOBA • • •

a Sport

El Café de la Recova, 25 de Mayo 185. Tearoom Hoyo en Uno, Belgrano 268 La Gran Aldea, Belgrano near 25 de Mayo. Tearoom

• • •

n Entertainment • •

•

Disco Kokibar, Caraffa 380 Disco Toby’s, Déan Funes and López y Planes

•

Fishing: The trout-fishing season runs November–April Golf: Golf Club La Cumbre, Belgrano @ 451170; 18 holes Hang Gliding: Aladeltismo, Mirador de Cuchi Corral @ 452188 Horse riding: Cachito Silva, Pasaje Beiró @ 451703 Polo: Club de Polo, Aérodomo on the road to Los Troncos @ 451764 Tennis: La Cumbre Tennis Club, Bartolomé Jaime @ 452010

I Post and telegraph

•

•

s Excursions

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, 25 de Mayo 150 near Belgrano Telephone: Telecentro La Cumbre, 25 de Mayo 233

Tour operators • Rancho El Rosendo, Juan XXIII; horse-riding Excursions • Cristo Redentor: 1 km from the town center. This walk goes past the Balneario Municipal up the river bed and finishes at the natural mineral springs (El Chorrito) • Cruz Chica is a residential area. A 7 km walk over a well-paved road brings you via Cruz Grande to Los Cocos. The beautiful wide valley full of summer residences with clusters of trees resembles parkland • Ascochinga: This 42 km drive rises to 1400 m within 4 km. The area is covered with pine and wild cherry trees. A little further on the water cascades from the weir at Dique San Jerónimo. You can fish in the pond. See page 253 • Cuchi Corral: A lookout 8 km west of La Cumbre, where hang-gliders sometimes practice

L Financial •

Banco de la Provincia de Córdoba, López y Planes near 25 de Mayo

M Services and facilities •

Laundromat: Laverap, Belgrano 309 (corner of 25 de Mayo)

S Buses

The bus terminal is on the corner of General Paz and San Martín; it has a restaurant and toilets. • ABLO, Rusnack @ 452001 • Contal, Coord. Valle de Punilla, Costera Criolla, Pampa de Achala, and 20 de Junio run 8 services daily to Córdoba and the Punilla area • T.A. Chevallier besides local services also runs long-distance services • See also Buses from Córdoba on page 267

U Motoring • •

Shell, Avenida Caraffa 242 Y.P.F., 25 de Mayo 236

LA CUMBRECITA

La Cumbrecita Postal code: 5194 @ area code: (03546) Distance from Córdoba: 115 km south-west on RN 36

L

a Cumbrecita is situated in the eastern part of the Sierra de Comechingones on the Río del Medio which flows into Dique Los Molinos dam. It has an alpine appearance and is much frequented by the Ger286

La Cumbrecita

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in La Cumbrecita

Most of the hotels include one or two meals in their rates. Hotels ** ** ** * *

La Cumbrecita AEFGJLPUV E-mail: [email protected] Las Cascadas, Postal Villa General Belgrano AEFGJLPUV Las Verbenas AEFGJLPUV Panorama, Zorrino Alegre AELPV Tilcara AELPV

Hosterías

• Kuhstall • La Trucha

@

481052

$E

2

@ @ @ @

481015 481008 481024 481019

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481925 462070

man and Swiss communities in Argentina. The church in the center of the village lends it a central European appearance. In the vicinity are baths appropriately named Grottensee (Grotto Lake) and Forellensee (Trout Lake). There is a mini golf course.

B Tourist information •

S Buses

There are direct buses from Córdoba (Mercado Sur terminal); most hotels pick up in Villa General Belgrano, 40 km away.

Oficina de Información Turística, Centro Cívico @ 481070 fax

E Eating out • • • • • • •

Cafetería Lisbeth Restaurant Bar Suizo Restaurant El Encuentro Restaurant La Campana. Parrilla Restaurant Mini Bar Restaurant El Paseo Restaurant El Puente

a Sport

There is fishing and hiking in the hills.

s Excursions

•

La Cascada is a 17 m waterfall about half an hour’s walk on a marked path See also Excursions from Villa General Belgrano on page 334.

LA FALDA

La Falda Population: 15 000 Postal code: 5172 @ area code: (03548) Altitude: 933 m Distance from Córdoba: 83 km north-west via Río Ceballos

L

a Falda is located on the slopes of the Sierras Chicas and is the center of the Punilla tourist area. The land on which it stands was originally part of a grant made by Jerónimo Luis de Cabrera to his loyal followers. La Falda was acquired by Dr Juan Bialet Massé in 1847 and gradually increased in size and importance La Falda

until the first procession of the Inmaculada Concepción on December 8, 1868. This day is regarded as 287

CÓRDOBA cross the bridge and take the small trail to the left passing by the dam

the foundation day of the city and celebrated each year with great aplomb. The real boost to the fledgeling town came in 1897 with the construction of Hotel Edén. There are now over seventy hotels, making La Falda one of the largest tourist centers in the Punilla. La Falda has several small museums and an attractive town center. The pure air is one of the attractions of La Falda. From November to February there is some rain. La Falda is a good base for excursions into the surrounding area. Visit the nearby Cerro El Cuadrado (1500 m) and Villa Giardino on the Río San Francisco, with its mill constructed by the Jesuits. Also described here are the townships of Huerta Grande and Villa Giardino, virtually northern suburbs of La Falda with good tourist facilities. These facilities have been incorporated under La Falda where appropriate. Valle Hermoso, 1.5 km south of La Falda, now merges with La Falda. Facilities and sightseeing are included here: altitude 891 m, postal code 5168.

E Eating out Restaurants • El Cristal, San Lorenzo 39 • El Vagón, Avenida Edén 610. Shows • La Posta de Edén, Avenida Edén 568 • Los Amigos, España 384 • Mendieta, Avenida Buenos Aires 70 • Open Night, Avenida Edén 517. Dancing downstairs • Rancho Criollo, Avenida Edén 701. Parrilla Pizzerías • Pizzería Alpi, Avenida Edén 132 Cafeterías • A.C.A., Avenida España near Sarmiento • Bon-Con, Avenida Edén 348 • Fra-Noi, Avenida Edén 570 • Molino de Oro, Avenida Los Eucaliptos • Schmidel, 25 de Mayo 417 • Strauss, Avenida Edén near San Lorenzo Eating out on Laguna de los Patos • Restaurant Salzburgo

n Entertainment

• • •

A Festivals •

I Post and telegraph

Foundation Day: December 8

•

B Tourist information • •

•

Secretaria de Turismo, Avenida España 50 @ 422764 fax 423462 Secretaria de Turismo, bus terminal @ 423186

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Avenida Argentina near 9 de Julio Telephone: Telecom Argentina, Diagonal San Martín 6

L Financial

•

D Camping •

Casino de La Falda, Avenida Sarmiento 351. Open daily 22:00–03:00 Gregor, Avenida Argentina 50. Dancing Las Rosas Disco, Avenida Edén 596

Río Grande, on the beach at Morecabo. Follow Avenida Italia and turn to the right before crossing the bridge. municipal buses; AFL. Open in holiday season only Siete Cascadas, on the beach at Siete Cascadas. Follow Avenida Italia,

Banco de la Nación Argentina, 13 de Diciembre 410

M Services and facilities

• • •

288

Bicycle hire: Casa Irwo, Diagonal San Martín 2120 Horse hire: Hotel Edén, Avenida Edén 1100 “Moto” hire: 9 de Julio 286

La Falda

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in La Falda Hotels

Nor-Tomarza, Avenida Edén 1063 ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$TUVYZ E-mail: [email protected] @ 422004 fax **** Tomaso di Savoia, Avenida Edén 732 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 423383 @ 423013 *** Hostal L’Hirondelle, Avenida Edén 861 @ 422825 fax *** Scala, Ave. Edén 450 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 423072 ** Buonaventura, Avenida Argentina 119 AEFGJLPUV @ 422357 fax ** El Mirador, Sargento Cabral 257 AEFGJLPUV @ 422710 ** Fiumicino, Avenida Edén 735 AEFGJLPUV @ 423065 ** Italia, Avenida Belgrano 420 AEFGJLPUV @ 422017 ** Karun, Avenida Edén 1100 AEFGJLPUV @ 422857 ** La Asturiana, Avenida Edén 835 AEFGJLPUV @ 422923 ** León de Castilla, Ave. Buenos Aires 238 AEFGJLPUV @ 422878 ** Majestic, Capital Federal 149 AEFGJLPUV @ 422117 ** Ollantay, La Plata 236 AEFGJLPUV @ 423141 ** Réal Hotel, L. de la Torre 411 AEFGJLPUV @ 424631 ** Punilla, 9 de Julio 201 near Bahía AEFGJLPUV @ 422121 ** Sorrento, Avenida Argentina 118 AEFGJLPUV @ 423577 fax * Buenos Aires, Ave. Buenos Aires 139 AEFGHLPRUV @ 422534 * El Nogal, Estados Unidos 149 AELPV @ 422477 * Gran Ideal, Avenida General Güemes 297 AELPV @ 422230 * La Falda, Alvear 125 AELPV @ 422583 * Las Violetas, Güemes 124 AELPV @ 421826 * Le Mirage, Güemes 149 AELPV @ 422958 * Llao Llao, Avenida Kennedy 356 AELPV @ 422225 * Los Pinos, Maipú near Kennedy AELPV @ 422353 * Malvinas, Güemes 117 AELPV @ 424478 * Marydor, Avenida Edén 868 AELPV @ 423510 * Matías, Sarmiento 256 AELPV @ 423038 * Mayo, 25 de Mayo 426 AELPV @ 421882 fax * Mi Sueño, Avenida Argentina 157 AELPV @ 422153 * Novelty, Las Heras 208 AELPV @ 422922 * Old Garden, Capital Federal 28 AELPV @ 422842 * Patria, Avenida Patria 147 AELPV @ 422720 * Peloso, Avenida España 242 AELPV @ 423201 * San Remo, Avenida Argentina 105 AELPV @ 424875 * Zurich, Río Negro 311 AELPV @ 422458 • San Jorge, Ave. Patria 249 @ 422448 E-mail: [email protected] ****

Hosterías ** ** ** ** * * *

El Viejo Castaño, Los Aromos AEFGJLPUV Las Piedras, Avenida Güemes AEFGJLPUV Los Andes, Pringles near Maipú AEFGJLPUV Nueva Achalay, Victoria 294 AEFGJLPUV El Paraíso, España 125 AELPV Marina, Güemes 134 AELPV Portal de las Sierras, Bahía Blanca 258 AELPV

Residenciales

A Cedro Azul, Lamadrid 383 LP A Los Cántaros, Avenida Argentina 239 EFLP

La Falda

289

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CÓRDOBA Accommodation in La Falda — continued Accommodation in Huerta Grande ** * *

La Posada del Sol, San Juan 90 Costa Azul, San Martín 2437 El Portal, Avenida San Martín 1744

Residenciales

A San Remo, Provincias Unidas 59

AEFGJLPUV AELPV AELPV

@ @ @

423097 423369 421051

$G $F

2 2

EFGHLNPUV

@

421944

$H

2

Accommodation in Valle Hermoso Valle Hermoso is now virtually a southern suburb of La Falda. There are regular municipal buses linking La Falda, Huerta Grande, and Valle Hermoso. Hotels ** ** * * * *

Hosterías *

Los Abrojos, Goya

Residenciales A A A A A

@

470438

$H

1

@ @ @ @ @

470262 470251 470314 470878 470359

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AELPSV

@

470430

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ELP EFLP EFLP LP FLP

@ @ @

470744 470140 470076

La Castellana, P. Figueroa 354 AEFGJLPSUV Tehuel, General Paz 101 near República Argentina AEFGJLPUV Biondi’s, General Paz 186 AELPV Horizonte, RN 38 AELPV Lucerna, Rodríguez Peña 115 AELPV Santa Rosa, H. Yrigoyen 381 AELPV

Carmencita, R.S. Peña La Primavera, H. Yrigoyen 1001 Norca, Pellegrini Nuevo Venecia, RN 38 KM 779 Santa Elizabeth, RN 38 KM 779

Accommodation in Villa Giardino Villa Giardino is located 5 km north of La Falda, of which it is virtually the northernmost suburb. • Apart Hotel Victoria, Avenida San Martín 476 Hotel Altos de San Pedro, Alto de San Pedro AEFGJLPUV Full pension * Hotel Giardino, Las Flores near Toronjil AEFGHLPRUV • Hotel Vandor, Santa Teresa 933 A Residencial Avenida, RN 38 and Augusto Fassi ELP • Cabaña Los Churumbeles, Armonía

**

S Buses

@

491082

$H

1

@ @ @ @ @

491010 fax 491039 470692 491105 491210

$D $H

2 1

U Motoring

•

The bus terminal is on J.L. de Cabrera. • ABLO, Buenos Aires @ 422466 • CACORBA @ 422032 • Contal, Coord. Valle de Punilla, Pampa de Achala, run 10 services daily to and from Córdoba and the Punilla area • CACORBA, Costera Criolla, T.A. Chevallier have local and long distance services. These companies also serve Huerta Grande, Villa Giardino and Valle Hermoso Refer for details to Buses from Córdoba on page 267

•

Service station: A.C.A., Avenida España near Edén @ 422674 Car hire: Mar-Per-Tur, corner of Sarmiento and Diagonal San Martín @ 421505

p Sightseeing

•

290

Hotel Edén: At the end of Avenida Edén. In its heyday, between 1904 and 1945, the Hotel Edén was a self-sufficient unit with its own farm. Now a monumento histórico provincial there are guided tours. Open daily 09:30–12:00 and 16:00–19:00 La Falda

PAMPA PROVINCES •

Model railway museum at the end of Avenida 25 de Mayo • Capilla del Sagrado Corazón, Avenida Edén near Bulevar Eichhorn. First church built in La Falda • Plaza San Martín Avenida Patria near Cabildo with the Iglesia Santísimo Sacramento Sightseeing in Valle Hermoso • Capilla de San Antonio (St. Anthony’s Chapel), Avenida San Martín. Built in 1735 in colonial style. It contains ancient paintings and wood carvings made by Indians some of which are of Peruvian origin • Museo Municipal Capitán Juan de Zeballos • Cascada de los Helechos and Vaquerías. Waterfalls, swimming and camping

•

s Excursions •

Tour operators • La Falda, G L de Cabrera 206 @ 422740, operates a number of tours, all of which run daily and require a minimum of eight passengers • Aventura Club, 9 de Julio 541 @ 422163, fax 423809; 4WD, hiking Excursions • Huerta Grande (971 m): Small tourist center in the heart of the Punilla; it is a typical mountain village with good fishing and medicinal waters. Many little streams run through forested glens coming down from the mountain; most of them originate in little tarns. Of interest is the Chacra Orgánica El Gozante, a 2.5 km property at the foot of Cerro El Dragón, specialising in medicinal plants. The herb garden can be visited and there are free tours. Local products include different types of honey and goat cheese. Huerta Grande has almost merged with La Falda; it is 31 2 km on RN 38 • Cascadas de Olaen (Olaen Falls) and Capilla de Santa Bárbara (St Barbara’s Chapel), a Jesuit foundation: Start at Avenida Italia and continue along the dirt road towards Pampa de Olaen. Twenty-two km past Fundación San

La Falda

•

291

Roque turn south, then at the signpost saying “Cascadas de Olaen” leave your car and walk 5 km to the waterfall. Alternatively, it is a one-day hike. Marble and limestone are mined here. At the time of the Spanish occupation this area was settled by Sanavirones Comechingones Indians. The waterfall is in a picturesque canyon and forms a small lake; it is a favorite outing for people from the tourist resorts. The Capilla de Santa Bárbara, built in 1747, has a venerated picture of St Bárbara. Nearby are the ruins of a manorial building which belonged to a famous descendant of the founder of Córdoba, Dr Diego de Salguero y Cabrera who was bishop of Córdoba Dique La Falda: A short walk following Avenida Italia on the outskirts of town. This weir dams up the Río Grande de Punillas and provides water for La Falda. Camping Cerro El Cuadrado 1450 m: Follow Avenida Edén to the end and then follow the signs to the left. Estancia El Cuadrado has a cafetería and offers horse rides. Nearby is Estancia El Silencio founded in the eighteenth century. The owner has a collection of colonial furniture, paintings and a collection of butterflies and insects. Guided tours. From the “Balcony of the Clouds” just before the summit you have extensive views over the city and the Punilla valley Reserva Natural Vaquerías: 5 km east of Valle Hermosa at an altitude of 800–1400 m. This nature reserve belongs to the Universidad Nacional de Córdoba, which runs a complejo turístico here. At 400 square kilometers (154 square miles), the reserve covers most of the upper part of Arroyo Vaquerías, which here forms a waterfall. The prevailing moisture in the air has produced a unique plant cover consisting chiefly of ferns and mosses. The most spectacular part is the Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat) with the Casca de los Helechos (Fern Waterfall); it reserve can be reached on foot via a trail

CÓRDOBA

LABOULAYE

Laboulaye Population: 20 000 Postal code: 6120 @ area code: (03385) Distance from Córdoba: 348 km south-east on RN 36, RN 35 and RN 7

L

aboulaye is located in the southern part of the province at the intersection of RN 7 (east–west) and RP 4 (north–south). It is a convenient stopover for travelers en route from Rosario to Córdoba. Also described here is General Levalle, a small country town 43 km west of Laboulaye on RN 7, halfway to Vicuña Mackenna.

Accommodation in General Levalle • Hospedaje Glasgow, Avenida Pellegrini 147 EFLP @ 480176

C Accommodation

Buses run regularly to Buenos Aires, Mendoza, and Córdoba. • Autotransporte San Juan, España 542 @ 428535

** ** **

• • • •

S Buses

Hotel Laboulaye, Independencia 452 near Pasco AEFGJLPUV @ 426412 Hotel Parque, RN 7 KM 490 AEFGJLPTUVY @ 427949 $G 2 Motel Ranquel Maipú, RN 7 KM 489 AEFGJLPUV @ 426066 $H 2 Hotel Victoria Parque, Alvear 10 @ 426756 Hospedaje Mar Azul, Moreno 1 EFLP @ 427159 $I 2 Residencial El Portal, Ave. Independencia 775 @ 425391 Residencial Gran Plaza, Belgrano 39 @ 427990

Lago La Viña

s Excursions

•

Reserva Natural de Fauna Lagunas del Sur y Bañados del Saladillo. Located on RP 4 halfway between La Carlota and Laboulaye. Typical wet pampa area with grassy plains, clusters of trees and several lagunas and wetlands. Camping permitted

LAGO LA VIÑA

T

his artificial lake, also known as Embalse Ingeniero A.M. Allende, is located in the Traslasierra region of Córdoba Province, halfway between the towns of Mina Clavero to the north and Villa Dolores to the south. This fairly large lake has around its shore a number of tourist resorts which I have collected here. The major tourist areas are Nono, Alto del Monte, Las Calles, Las Rabonas and Los Hornillos. Las Rabonas is situated 162 km south-west of Córdoba on the shore of the artificial lake Lago La Viña on the western slope of the Cumbres de Achala. It is well situated for walks

into the mountains and water sports on the lake. In the vicinity is a camping ground; postal code is 5885. Nono is located 147 km south west of Córdoba on the northern

292

Lago La Viña

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation near Lago La Viña Accommodation in Las Rabonas • Hostería Tajamar

Accommodation in Los Hornillos Hostería Alta Montaña Hostería Dos Arroyos * Hostería Von Trapp, Dos Arroyos English and German spoken • Hotel Monte Berico, RN 14

** **

AEFGHLPRUV AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AELPRV

Accommodation in Nono

• Cabañas La Morada, RN14 Hotel El Marqués de Nono, Corrientes AEFGJLPUV * Hotel Gran Nono, Vicente Castro 289 AELPV Tennis courts • Hotel La Gloria, Ave. Los Porteños AEFGL *** Hostería La Lejania ACDEFGJKLPTUVY • Residencial La Viña, Vicente Castro 182 EFLP **

$G

2

@

499009

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2 2

@ @

499079 (3544) 499210

$G

2

@ @

(3544) 498166 498031

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@

498022

@ @

470523 498009

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Accommodation in Paraje Alto del Monte Paraje Alto del Monte is located 2 km east of Nono AELPV EFLP

Hostería Manantial • Residencial Del Alto Also shared bath rooms

*

Accommodation in Las Calles

• Albergue Los Nogales, Estación La Yola LP

S Buses to Lago la Viña

side of the artificial lake Lago La Viña. It is a good base for excursions to the western slopes of the Cumbres de Achala. Las Calles is located 4 km south-east of Nono. Los Hornillos is set in the foothills of the Sierra de Achala 22 km east of Villa Dolores, and is the start of the picturesque Tras la Sierra road to Córdoba.

•

El Petizo, E.P.A., Pampa de Achala, and 20 de Junio run 5 services daily to and from Córdoba. They serve Nono, Los Hornillos, and the small villages in the nearby mountain valleys. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267

p Sightseeing in Nono

•

Museo Rocsen, an archeological and mineralogical museum 5 km from the town center (towards the mountains), is open from 0900 till sunset daily

LOS COCOS

Los Cocos Postal code: 5181 @ area code: (03548) Altitude: 1220 m Distance from Córdoba via Jesús María: 105 km north-west

Los Cocos

293

CÓRDOBA

L

os Cocos is a small village in the northern part of the Sierras Chicas. Although off the beaten track, it is within walking distance of La Cumbre and is a good base for easy walks in the Sierra. Although a small town it has good tourist facilities.

S Buses

There are 20 buses daily to and from Córdoba via La Cumbre.

C Accommodation in Los Cocos Hosterías ** * * *

Hotels ** **

La Esperanza AEFGJLPUV Del Mediterráneo, Los Tulipanes AELPSV Hostal Los Cocos, Avenida Dra Cecila Grierson AELPSV Los Molles, Avenida Dra Cecilia Grierson AELPV Los Pinos, Avenida Cecilia Grierson 1320 AEFGJLPUV Fax 492188 Hotel Walcheren, Las Calas near Pública AEFGJLPRTUV

Cabañas

• El Mirador, Int. Maffassanti

@ @ @ @

492016 492023 fax 492157 492001

$G $H $H $G

2 1 1 2

@

492002

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492049 fax

$H

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@

492250

MARCOS JUÁREZ

Marcos Juárez Postal code: 2580 @ area code: (03472) Altitude: 115 m Distance from Córdoba: 255 km south-east on RN

M

arcos Juárez is located in the wet pampa and is the center of an agricultural district. For those interested in a game of golf there are two nine-hole golf courses: Club A. y B.M. San Martín, RN 9 KM 449 @ 425549; and A. y B.M. Argentino, Belgrano near Calle Pública @ 426556/425436. Rosario in Santa Fe Province is 141 km east. There is accommodation and a gas station.

C Accommodation

A Residencial Esmeralda, 9 de Julio 274 EFLP @ 426565

Hotel El Tropical, RN 9 near Calle 4 AEFGJLPUV @ 426979 $F 2 * Hotel Marcos Juárez, RN 9 KM 445 AELPV @ 425558 $F 2 A Residencial Bali-Cor, RN 9 near Santiago del Estero LP @ 426131 **

S Buses

There are at least 20 daily buses to and from Córdoba and Buenos Aires.

294

Marcos Juárez

PAMPA PROVINCES

MINA CLAVERO

Mina Clavero Postal code: 5889 @ area code: (03544) Altitude: 915 m Distance from Córdoba: 145 km south-west on RN 20

M

ina Clavero is located in the valley to the west of the Sierra Grande and the Pampa de Pocho. Seen from Córdoba city, it is “behind the mountains”, whence the name of the region “Traslasierra”. It is easily accessible from Córdoba and San Luis, and has good tourist facilities, although some of the hotels are not open all year round. It is a good starting point for exploration and hiking in the mountains: Cerro Champaqui, at 2880 m the highest mountain of Córdoba province, is within easy reach of the town.

B Tourist information

In 1573 the first Spanish expedition visited the area to assess the number and location of the indigenous population and to find gold. The expedition was made up of forty soldiers under the command of Capitán Hernán Mejías Miraval. Chroniclers report that the Contonavi Indian village headed by Cacique (or “Chief”) Milac Navira was at the junction of the Río Panaholma and Río Mina Clavero. The present name is a corruption of the chief’s name. From 1598 onwards some mines were worked in the area, and from 1890 there was a small flow of tourists to take advantage of the mineral waters which have similar properties to those of Evian in France. In pre-Hispanic times gold was mined near the indigenous settlement on the Río Panaholma. Some rain falls between December and March. Here I have included Villa Cura Brochero, which is located 3.5 km north of Mina Clavero at an altitude of 945 m. It is also a vacation resort. Facilities are included under the respective sections.

Mina Clavero

•

Secretaría de Turismo, Cultura y Deportes, Avenida Mitre 1191 @ 470241

D Camping

•

Auto camping Dos Ríos, Avenida Merlo, Balneario Los Elefantes; AFL • La Siesta, Avenida Santa Rita; AFL. Open only in tourist season Camping in Villa Cura Brochero Cura Brochero has a number of good camping grounds; the list below is only a selection. • Buen Retiro, Intersection of Avenida Cura Gaucho and Avenida Costanera on the banks of the Río Panaholma @ 470744 AFL. Capacity 70 tents on 2.5 ha (6 acres), also cabañas; open in tourist season • La Selva, Avenida Costanera @ 471015; AFL, capacity 144 tents on 8.5 ha (21 acres), also cabañas; open in tourist season

E Eating out Restaurants • Amadeus, San Martín block 1200 near Belgrano • Bardon Ramón, San Martín block 1000 near Intendente Vila • Don Damian, San Martín 1144 • Don Enrique, San Martín block 1200 near Lugones • El Altillo, San Martín 1076. Parrilla • El Mangrullo, San Martín block 1100 near Intendente Vila. Parrilla 295

CÓRDOBA Key to map A C D E H I $ T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Hospital Secretaría de Turismo Banco de la Provincia de Córdoba Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Hotel Marengo Hostería Los Puentes Hotel Los Alpes Motel Ruta 66 Hostería Costa del Sol Hostería La Posada Hostería La Ideal

9 10 11 13 14 15 16 17 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28

Hotel Palo Verde Hotel Palace Hotel La Rueda Hotel Aguirre Residencial Italia Hostería Sierras Hotel Monti Hotel Paraíso Residencial La Primavera Residencial Nury Hostería Danubio Hotel Mina Clavero Residencial Porteño Hotel Coronado Hostería Champaqui Residencial Franchino Hostería Progreso Hotel La Morenita

•

•

5 Entertainment 8

Casino de la Traslasierra

7 Tour operators and car rental 18 Viajes y Expediciones Barret S.R.L.

Hospital, Fleming 1364 @ 70220

U Motoring Service stations • A.C.A., San Martín block 700 • Esso, Mitre near Santa Ana; also cafeteria

a Sport

• •

Casino de la Traslasierra, Avenida San Martín 785

Fishing: The rivers coming down from the Sierra are well- stocked with trout Golf: Hotel La Quebrada and Hotel Yacanto have nine-hole courses. They are both 15 km from Mina Clavero

s Excursions

Post office: Correo Argentino, Avenida San Martín 711 Telephone: Telecom, Avenida San Martín 1149

See also Excursions from Villa Dolores on page 330. Tour operators in Mina Clavero • Viajes y Expediciones Barret S.R.L., Belgrano 1320 @ 70523 Excursions • Villa Carlos Paz: There is a good new sealed road from Mina Clavero over

L Financial •

12 Restaurant Don Damian

The bus terminal is behind the Municipalidad in Avenida Mitre 1191. • Contal, El Petizo, and Pampa de Achala run 6 services daily to and from Córdoba and the Punilla • T.A.C. and T.A. Chevallier run local and long-distance services. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267

I Post and telegraph •

4 Eating out

S Buses

n Entertainment

•

Residencial Oviedo Residencial Pilla Hotel Ferrari Hotel Villa Mery Hotel Costa Azul Hotel España Hostería Lorelei Hostería Tico Tico

M Services and facilities

El Platerito, San Martín block 1200 near Lugones & • Escalera Real, San Martín block 1100 near Intendente Vila, upstairs • La Casa de Mi Abuela, San Martín block 1200 near Belgrano • La Mezquita, San Martín Norte block 700 near Avenida Costanera • Rincón Suizo, Champaqui 1200. International cuisine Pizzerías • El Capricho, San Martín block 1100 near Vila • El Obrero, San Martín block 1000 near Intendente Vila • Las Brasas, San Martín Norte near Champaqui • Las Palmeras, San Martín block 1200 near Lugones • Rumico, San Martín block 1200 near Lugones •

29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36

Banco de la Provincia de Córdoba, Avenida San Martín 1682

296

Mina Clavero

PAMPA PROVINCES To Cura Brochero

14

e

OLMOS (N)

R ío d

EDISON

4

auc lo s S

J. HERNÁNDEZ

CÓRDOBA

1

LUIS TES SANDORI

AVE. SAN MARTÍN (N)

N

P. PANAHOLMA

3 DE FEBRERO M. GIMENEZ 2

3

SARMIENTO

es 5

6

LUIS TES SANDORI D

AVE. COSTANERA 7

AVE. COSTANERA

STELLA MARIS

10

CHAMAS

8 9

NO CA Plaza San Martín

J.

R CÁ

N Ó AM R

CHAMPAQUI

CURA BROCHERO A

PJE DEL BALNEARIO

MILAC NAVIRA 11

CHAÑAR PAMPA DE POCHO

INTENDENTE VILA

MILAC NAVIRA 12 13

I

E 15

T

C

COLÓN 17

16

14

BELGRANO 18

Ríp Panaholma

L . TORRES NILSON

19

B. URUGUAY

AVE. MITRE

LOS PRADOS

LA PIEDAD

E. MUIÑO

AVE. COSTANERA

R. ANDRÉS RICOE P. LUGONES

OLMOS (S)

ANASTASIA FABRE DE MERLO 22 20

21

25 24 INTENDENTE OVIEDO

PJE. NAHUEL

12 DE OCTUBRE 26

9 DE JULIO 27 28 G. URQUIZA (O)

23

29 31

32

30

G. URQUIZA (E) 33 35

$ 25 DE MAYO

34

FLEMING

MINA CLAVERO

20

BOYERITO DE LA CONCHA

To Córdoba and Villa Dolores

Mina Clavero

297

ZAPIOLA

14

BOLÍVAR

AGUARIBAY

H 36

EL CHACHO

Plazoleta A.F. de Merlo

CÓRDOBA C Accommodation in Mina Clavero

It is advisable to book for stays between December to February. Hotels Rossetti, Avenida Mitre 1340 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Du Soleil, Avenida Mitre near La Piedad AEFGJLPUV ** La Rueda, Avenida San Martín 986 AEFGJLPUV ** Palo Verde, San Martín 780 AEFGJLPSUV * Aguero, 12 de Octubre 1168 AELPV * Aguirre, Avenida San Martín 1166 AELPV * Coronado, Avenida San Martín 1495 AELPV * Costa Azul, Urquiza 1142 AELPV * España, Avenida San Martín 1687 near Fleming AELPV * Ferrari, Intendente Oviedo 1344 AELPV * La Morenita, Urquiza 1145 AELPV * Las Leñas, Enrique Muiño 1028 AELPSV * Los Alpes, Sarmiento 1431 AELPV * Marengo, San Martín 528 AELPV * Milac Navira, San Lorenzo 1407 AELPV * Mina Clavero, Merlo 1320 AELPV * Mirador, Colón 1941 AELPV * Molino Blanco, General Urquiza 1366 AELPV * Monti, Belgrano 1471 AELPV * Palace, Avenida Mitre 847 AELPV * Paraíso, Colón 1584 AELPSV * Villa Mery, Olmos Sud 1524 AELPSV • Colina del Valle, Olmos Sur AEY English spoken

*** **

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

470012 470066 470549 470165 470439 470239 470225 470274 470123 470172 470347 470714 470191 470224 470278 470667 470456 470124 470007 470390 470059 470453

$D $E $F $F $G $G $G $G $G $H $G $G $H $G $H $F $F $E $G $F $G $G

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

@

471177 fax

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

470393 470176 470987 470440 470346 470201 470357 471021 470357 470382 470223

$H $F $H $H $G $G $G $G $H $G $G

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

@

470342

$F

2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

470979 470806 470005 470387 470395 470705 470381 470704

$G $H $H

2 2 2

$H $H $H $H

2 2 2 2

Hosterías ** ** * * * * * * * * *

Champaqui, Intendente Oviedo 1439 AEFGJKLPUV Fax 470910 Tico Tico, Avenida San Martín 1875 AEFGJLPUV Costa del Sol, Avenida San Martín 636 AELPV Danubio “C”, Avenida San Martín 1482 AELPV El Balcón, Colón 1615 AELPSV La Ideal, Avenida San Martín 706 AELPV La Posada, Sarmiento 1394 AELPV Lorelei, Zapiola 1650 AELPSV Los Puentes, Sarmiento 1403 AELPV Progreso, Avenida Mitre 1522 AELPV Sierras, Belgrano 1367 AELPV

Motels *

Ruta 66, Tessandori 1454

AELPV

Residenciales

A Aire y Sol, Rivadavia 551 EFLP Shared bath room cheaper • Buenos Aires, Los Alpes 581 near EdisonEFLP • El Parral, Avenida Intendente Vila 1430 ELP A España, San Martín near Urquiza EFLP A Franchino, Avenida Mitre 1544 EFLP A Italia, San Martín 1176 ELP A La Primavera, Belgrano 1474 EFLP A Las Moras, Urquiza 1353 ELP

298

Mina Clavero

PAMPA PROVINCES Accommodation in Mina Clavero — continued A A A A

Nury, Merlo 1210 Oviedo, San Martín 1500 Pilla, San Martín 1540 Porteño, San Martín 1441

Accommodation in Barrio Santa Ana A Car Mar, Los Valles 1320

EFLP EFLP LP EFLP

@ @ @ @

470271 472019 470092 470235

$G $H $H $G

2 2 2 2

EFLP

@

470693

$H

2

@

(0221) 4842342 $H

2

2 2 2 2 2 2

Accommodation Pampa de Achala Residenciales

&

A Santa María, RP 14 KM 126 AEFLP E-mail: [email protected]

Accommodation in Villa Cura Brochero Villa Cura Brochero is located 3.5 km north of Mina Clavero. ** * * * * *

AEFGJLPUV AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV

@ @ @

470617 470651 470485

@ @

470493 470816

$G $H $H $G $H $G

Aluminé, Poeta Aguero 483 Altas Cumbres, J.M. de Rosas Casanova, General Paz 125 El Algarrobo, Juan Aguirre El Aromo, Ave. Mina Clavero 147

EFGLP GLP ELP EFGLP GLP

@ @ @ @ @

470733 470132 470196 470582 470852

$G $H $H $G $H

2 2 2 2 2

Los Robles, Avenida Belgrano 854

AELPV

@

470042

$G

2

De la Villa, Mina Clavero 225 Arture, Ave. Costanera Cura Brochero, Tucumán 162 Del Angel, Belgrano 937 Las Marías, RP 14 #55 Los Cántaros, Juan Bustos

Residenciales A A A A A

Hotels *

• •

•

There are many beaches with camping grounds along Río de los Sauces Archeological sites There are several archeological sites in the area bearing witness to the pre-Colombian culture of the Comechingones, most of which are within walking distance of Mina Clavero. • Panaholma site is on the track to Las Maravillas, 5 km north of Villa Cura Brochero • Campitos site is 3 km south of Mina Clavero at the far end of the local airstrip on the property of the Charras family • Cañada Larga site, 1 km east of the Campitos site: Here is a small cave with rock paintings where potsherds and stone mortars have been found

the Sierra Grande. At La Posta there is a new hotel. There are magnificent vistas on this scenic drive with occasional glimpses of Lago San Roque from El Condor onwards. Although there is snow in winter the road is kept open. See also Excursions from Villa Carlos Paz on page 324 Museo Rocsen (archeological and mineralogical museum) in Nono, 8 km south El Cóndor: The highest point in the Pampa de Achala with a view to Lago San Roque. There is a restaurant at El Cóndor but no accommodation. An 18 km hike north-west takes you to the Franciscan Colegio Padre Marialiquens set against the Sierra Grande with views to Cerro Los Gigantes (2374 m)

Mina Clavero

299

CÓRDOBA

MIRAMAR

Miramar Postal code: 5143 @ area code: (03563) Distance from Córdoba: 191 km north-east on RN 19 and RP 3

M

iramar is on the southern shore of Laguna Mar Chiquita. It is a very popular resort during the summer months. Laguna Mar Chiquita has no outlet, and is very swampy in the north where the Río Dulce enters.

s Excursions

The salt waters of Miramar are used in the treatment of rheumatic ailments and skin diseases.

•

S Buses •

Empresa Miramar/BASA:6 services daily to and from Córdoba. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267

U Motoring

Miramar is best reached by road from Córdoba.

Reserva Natural Bañados del Río Dulce y Laguna Mar Chiquita: It incorporates within its 600 000 ha (1,482 616 acres) the whole of Mar Chiquita, its tributaries and the swamps and marshlands around it. This nature reserve is the home of black-necked swans and herons, and is an important stopover for migratory birds. Contact the guardaparque in Mirmar. Access is via RP 17

C Accommodation in Miramar Complejos turísticos

• Las Vegas, Buenos Aires

Hotels

• Miramar, Buenos aires 200

Hosterías **

Portal del Mar, RP 3

Residenciales A A A A A A A A A

Bárbero, Córdoba 240 Brasilia, Córdoba 263 Ethel, H Yrigoyen 358 Mabel, J.B. Justo 157 Marchetti, Córdoba Merlino, Rivadavia near H. Yrigoyen Novero, Rivadavia 287 Savoy, San Martín 16 Susy, Belgrano 50

AFP 10 cabañas; also camping AEFGHRTY

@

493000

AEFGJLPUV

@

493051

$G

2

EFLP EFLP LP LP LP LP LP EFLP LP

@

493009

@ @ @

493086 493152 493143

@ @

$H $H $H $H $I $H $H

2 1 2 3 2 2 2

493048 493154

$G

3

Accommodation in Balnearia Balnearia is located 6 km south of Miramar. • Hospedaje Torino, Ave. Libertad 2

300

Miramar

PAMPA PROVINCES

RESERVA CULTURAL NATURAL CERRO COLORADO Reserva Cerro Colorado Altitude: 700 m Distance from Córdoba: 160 km north on RN 9

T

his reserve at Cerro Colorado has the most accessible rock paintings in the area; here there are more than 30 000 rock paintings of the Comechingones Indians and earlier tribes. The small museum organized by the caretaker contains rock and mineral samples of the area, spearheads, fossilized wood, and semi-precious stones found in the mountains. The caretaker also acts as a tourist guide.

E Eating out

In order to get to the hill containing the rock paintings after which the town is named you must ford a river—or if it is swollen you cross over a hanging bridge. Many tourist buses visit, especially on weekends. Reserva Cultural Natural Cerro Colorado is 10 km west of RN 9. The turnoff is at Santa Elena.

Food is available in the local comedors and shops.

S Buses

There are three bus services per week to and from Córdoba, from Mercado Sur; for further inquiries ring @ 4255533. The 11 km walk from Santa Elena (to which buses run frequently along RN 9) can be done in two hours, but at one stage you have to wade through a knee-deep fast-flowing river, depending on the season. The site may be best visited using a tour operator.

C Accommodation

Cheap but limited accommodation and camping are available in the Parque Arqueológico Reserva Cultural Natural Cerro Colorado.

RÍO CEBALLOS

Río Ceballos Population: 13 500 Postal code: 5111 @ area code: (03543) Altitude: 679 m Distance from Córdoba: 33 km north on RP 56

R

ío Ceballos is located in a valley on the eastern slopes of the Sierras Chicas and is a favorite vacation resort with Argentines. In pre-Hispanic times this was the home of the Comechingones Indians. The trail over the Sierras Chicas is one of the oldest Spanish roads. The area was also for a long period part of the Jesuit domain. There is a scenic drive to La Falda across the sierra. Of interest are the nearby Cascada de los Cóndores and Cascada de los Hornillos.

Reserva Cerro Colorado

301

CÓRDOBA B Tourist information

Córdoba; T.A. Chevallier has local and long-distance services. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267

D Camping

s Excursions

•

•

Secretaría de Turismo, Avenida San Martín 4400

La Quebrada, Avenida San Martín 6489, 5 km east of town on the artificial lake of the same name AFL; boat hire

Tour operators • Pax Viajes Academicos, J.A. Cabrera 182 @4922127 fax 4953475; Sr. Rodolfo Roldán Excursions • Reserva Hídrica Natural La Quebrada: 7 km west. Measures 4200 ha (10 378 acres) and includes several waterfalls like Cascada de Los Hornillos and Salto de la Estancia. The lake is used for sailing. Services include a permanent park ranger and camping facilities

E Eating out •

Cafetería Faquie, Avenida San Martín 4526. Video bar

S Buses • •

El Triunfo, Acuña 317 @ 429333 General Urquiza and ABLO, Lestache 132 @ 453399 • La Quebrada SRL, San Martín @ 451061 Ciudad de Córdoba, Coord. Valle de Punilla; daily 6 buses to and from

C Accommodation in Río Ceballos Hotels ** * * * * * *

San Pedro, San Martín 3637 California, San Martín 7888 Chalad, San Martín 4341 Los Algarrobos, San Martín 5403 Namuncurá, 3 de Febrero 38 Rama, Almte. Brown 414 Supe Río, Charcas 73

Hosterías * *

Los Mirlos, San Martín El Sidi, Almte. Brown 273

Residenciales A A A A A A A A A A A

Amedon Río, Sarmiento 776 Americano, San Martín 6302 Catalunya, Ameghino 59 Danubio Azul, Rivadavia 1020 Del Molino, Perú 281 Irupe, Atahualpa Yupanqui 64 Italiana, Rivadavia 1058 La Ribera, Rivadavia 1310 Las Tias, San Martín 4564 Los Pinos, San Martín 5940 Muñiz, San Martín near Belgrano

AEFGJLPUV AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV AEHLPV AELPV

@ @ @ @ @ @ @

451305 451285 451008 451026 451391 451028 451579

$G $H $H $G $G $H $H

1 2 2 2 2 2 2

AELPV AELPV

@

451778

$H $G

2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @

451124 451618 451699 451150 453091 453688 451155

$H $H $H

2 2 2

@ @ @

451088 451789 451492

$H $H $H $H $H $G $H

2 2 2 2 2 2 2

@

4951026

$G

2

EFLP EFLP EFLP EFLP EFLP EFLP EFLP LP LP EFLP EFLP

Accommodation in Villa Los Altos Hotels *

Are Kepay, Los Nogales Lote 11 Manzana 11 AELPV

302

Río Ceballos

PAMPA PROVINCES

RÍO CUARTO

Río Cuarto Population: 140 000 Postal code: 5800 @ area code: (0358) Altitude: 440 m Distance from Córdoba: 212 km south on RN 36

R

ío Cuarto is situated on the river of the same name. It is a modern city with wide avenues and many parks and plazas. It is the center of an agricultural area, and has a university and a golf club. Río Cuarto is a good stopover point on the route between Buenos Aires and Mendoza. Also included here are the towns of Achiras, Alpa Corral, General Cabrera, General Deheza, and Sampacho. Achiras is located 70 km west of Río Cuarto on RP 01 in the south-eastern part of the Sierra de Comechingones. Altitude is 845 m. Hiking in the nearby mountains is popular. The Oficina Municipal de Turismo is on Sarmiento near Córdoba @ 95019/236; postal code is 5833 and @ area code is (0582). On the banks of the Río Achiras is a municipal camping ground with hot showers, restaurant, electricity, but it is only open December–February. Regular daily buses run to Río Cuarto. Alpa Corral is 70 km northwest in the foothills of the Sierra de Comechingones; at an altitude of 750 m; it is a popular hiking area. There is an Oficina Municipal de Turismo @/fax (0358) 488008/9. Regular daily buses runto Río Cuarto, first on RN 36 then RP 11. The postal code is 5801 and @ area code is (0358). General Cabrera is 58 km north of Río Cuarto on RN 158 halfway to Villa Maria on RN 158. General Deheza is 65 km north, halfway to Villa María on RN 158.

Río Cuarto

Sampacho is 46 km west at the intersection of RN 8 and RP 24. Population is approximately 6000; postal code 5829, @ area code (03582).

B Tourist information

•

Dirección de Turismo y Recreación, Pasaje Cabildo de la Concepción 650 @ 4671127

E Eating out Restaurants • El Fogón, Alvear 740. Parrilla • El Lazo, Mitre 1055 • El Palacio del Buen Comer, Colón 42 • Itrabo, Avenida España 61 • La Cantina del Turco, General Paz 519. Italian cuisine • La Estancia, Mitre 1050. Parrilla • Rigoletto, 25 de Mayo 55. Italian cuisine • Ristorante L’Angelo, Colón 261. Italian cuisine • Soco Soco, Buenos Aires 162 • Tres Escalones, Colón 161 Pizzerías • Costa Azul, Cabrera near Marconi • Rivadavia, Rivadavia 345 Cafeterías • Abraxas, Bulevar Roca 941 • Intervalo, Buenos Aires 55 • Verona, H. Yrigoyen 1015 • La Terminal, Avenida España 116 Eating out on RN 8 • Comedor Y.P.F., KM 613 Eating out on RN 36 • Parador Don Pedro, KM 1

303

CÓRDOBA C Accommodation in Río Cuarto Hotels **** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * *

Opera, 25 de Mayo 55 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 4640400; E-mail: [email protected] @ Gran Hotel Río Cuarto, Sobremonte 725 E-mail: [email protected] ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Menossi, Avenida España 41 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 4640840 @ Cariel, Buenos Aires 364 AEFGJLPUV @ City, Lamadrid 701 AEFGJLPUV @ Interlac, Maipú 130 AEFGJLPUV @ Lanín, Alonso 162 AEFGJLPUV @ Libertador, Avenida España 85 AEFGJLPUV @ San Carlos, Urquiza 48 AEFGJLPSUV @ Cristal, Constitución 544 AELPV @ Río Palace, Avenida España 314 AELPV @ Venecia, Bolívar 28 AELPV @

4634390

$E

2

4633401 fax

$F

2

4644151/2 4645963/4 4625322 4626089 fax 4643255 4635352 4621683 4624778 4642134 4625593

$F $G $G

2 2 2

$H $G $G $G $F $G

2 2 2 2 2 2

$H $H

2 2

$I $H

2 2

Residenciales

A Alihué, Vélez Sarsfield 71 LP A Don Pedro, Ave. Italia 1241 EFLP A El Ciervo, Sobremonte 123 LP Near bus terminal A El Padrino, Pedernera 637 LP A Monge, Sobremonte 178 LP Also shared bath rooms; near bus terminal A Nogaró, Alsina 870 EFLP A Royal Hotel, Avenida General Roca 898 ELP

Accommodation on RN 8 Hotels *

Sol, KM 607

AELPV

@

4621883

@

4635095

$H $H

2 2

@

4623582

$G

2

@

4621885

$G

2

@

495076

@

495158

$H $H $H

2 2 2

$G $G

2 2

Accommodation in Achiras @ area code: (03582)

A Hospedaje Gracielita, San Martín 344/358 HL A Hospedaje Victoria, 24 de Setiembre 53 EFLP A Residencial Hostal de las Sierras, 24 de Setiembre 530 EFLP

Accommodation in Alpa Corral @ area code: (0358)

• Hotel Nilpe @ 488013 • Posada Ayelen @ 488029 A Residencial Don Alberto, Julio A. Roca near Gobernador J. Borda Shared bath room cheaper EFLP @ 488043 A Residencial El Puente, EFLP @ 488118 * Hostería Peumayen, Carlos Glymes AELPV @ 488086

Accommodation in General Cabrera @ area code: (0358)

Hotel Gilena, La Rioja 845 AELPV • Residencial Lucho, Avenida Belgrano 621

*

304

@

4930457

Río Cuarto

PAMPA PROVINCES Accommodation in Río Cuarto — continued Accommodation in General Deheza @ area code: (0358) Hotel Posada del Larriego, Juan Pablo II 1100 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY • Hotel Parai Maru, Juan Pablo II

***

@ @

4950096 4950541

$G

2

$H

2

Accommodation in Sampacho

• Hospedaje San Fernando, RN 8 near 9 de Julio EFLP

n Entertainment • •

Car rental • A1 Rent a Car, Constitución 912 @ 4624919 • Localiza, Sabattini 2539 @ 646310

Calatrava, General Paz 733. Disco New Gibbon’s, Sobremonte 575. Bar

I Post and telegraph •

a Sport

Post office: Correo Argentino, Plaza General Roca

• •

L Financial •

Banco de la Nación, Sobremonte near Rivadavia

•

M Services and facilities •

Laundromat: Laverap, Déan Funes 142

s Excursions

The south-eastern part of the largely unknown Sierra de Comechingones is accessible from Río Cuarto. Places to visit are Alpa Corral (750 m), Villa Chacay, and Achiras (845m); accommodation is available at Alpa Corral and Villa Chacay. Alpa Corral can be reached direct via Paso del Río Seco on dirt roads (68 km north-west) or via Piedra Blanca.

R Air services

There are daily flights to Buenos Aires (Aeroparque Jorge Newbery).

U Motoring •

Aero Club Río Cuarto, Constitución 846 Club Náutico de Pescadores y Cazadores, Cabrera 984 Río Cuarto Golf Club, Avenida Dr. Vicente Conti 650 @ (0358) 421244. The golf course is in Villa Dalcar; 18 holes

Service station: Y.P.F., RN 8 KM 613

S Buses from Río Cuarto

There are at least 10 services daily to and from Córdoba; see also Buses from Córdoba on page 267. • • • • • •

El Rápido, Ave. España @ 4646603 Sierras Cordobesas, Pasaje Pacheco De Melo 1680 @ 4647563 T.A.C., Ave. España 116 @ 4621815 El Serrano @ 4644614), TUS, Dorrego 41 @ 4635567 T.A. Chevallier ° Buenos Aires ($30.00) via La Carlota (11 2 hr), Canals (21 2 hrs), Arías, and Venado Tuerto (4 hrs); 1 daily ° Mina Clavero (41 2 hrs) via Villa Dolores ($12.50; 31 2hrs); 1 daily ° Villa María (2 hrs) via General Cabrera and General Deheza (1 hour); 1 daily

Río Cuarto

305

CÓRDOBA

RÍO TERCERO

Río Tercero Population: 44 000 Postal code: 5850 @ area code: (3571) Altitude: 387 m Distance from Córdoba: 112 km south on RP 5

R

ío Tercero is located on the river Río Tercero, hence its name, 18 km east of the artificial lake Lago Piedras Moras.

S Buses • •

s Excursions

•

La Vitoria and Los Obreros run daily services to and from Córdoba T.A. Chevallier also runs long-distance services. For details see Buses from Córdoba on page 267

U Motoring •

Localiza , Avenida General Savio 325

The Río Tercero hydroelectric scheme has created a string of artificial lakes which are frequented by tourists. Good pejerrey fishing and water sports. The dams are Embalse Piedras Moras (nearest to town), Embalse del Río Tercero, and Embalse Cerro Pelado

C Accommodation in Río Tercero Hotels *** *** * *

Argentino, Fray Sta María de Oro 80 Mayoral, Savio 1064 Embajador, SantoDiscepolo 50 Vélez Sarsfield, Vélez Sarsfield 549

Residenciales A • • • •

Richard, Lavalle 186 Aligomac, Cafferata 50 Ivrea, Homero Manzi 164 La Paz, General Paz 1 Sarmiento, Sarmiento 77

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AELPV AELPV

@ @ @ @

424468 421801 422280 421336

$E $F $H $F

2 2 2 2

LP LP EGLP EFLP LP

@ @

422084 422110

@

425617

$G $H $H $H $H

2 2 2 2 2

SALSIPUEDES

Salsipuedes Postal code: 5113 @ area code: (0351) Altitude: 750 m Distance from Córdoba: 34 km north on RP 56

S

alsipuedes is located on the eastern slopes of the Sierras Chicas. Also included here are Agua de Oro and Candonga. the Sierras Chicas at an altitude of 605 m. Of interest is the nearby Capilla de Candonga. The area

Agua de Oro is a small mountain village located 8 km north of Salsipuedes on the eastern slopes of 306

Salsipuedes

PAMPA PROVINCES Accommodation in Agua de Oro ** Hotel Estancia Agua de Oro, RP 53 AEFGJLPUV @ 493230 $F 2 Open December–March * Complejo Turístico Los Alamos, Rioja FG @ 93084 $I 2. Tennis courts Accommodation in Candonga A Residencial Candonga ELP

abounds in luxuriant forests. The Oficina de Turismo is on Martín Fierro @ 493244; postal area code is 5107 and @ code is (03525) Candonga is located 55 km north on RP 55 on the eastern side of the Sierras Chicas at an altitude of 810 m, about two hours’ drive from Córdoba. The main attraction is the Jesuit chapel (now a national monument) which was built in 1730 to serve the Estancia Santa Gertrudis. Its style shows the influence of native artists. The winding and picturesque road continues up to La Falda.

D Camping

•

S Buses

•

C Accommodation *

Bello Horizonte, Corro 112, 3 km outside town Ciudad de Córdoba and T.A. Chevallier run 3 services daily to and from Córdoba. See also Buses from Córdoba on page 267

Hotel Piantino, Güemes 6 near RP 53 E @ 492216

SAN CLEMENTE

San Clemente Postal code: 5187 Distance from Córdoba: 66 km west

S

an Clemente is located on the eastern slopes of the Cumbres de Achala. It is somewhat off the beaten track but in good hiking country.

C Accommodation *

•

•

Hotel La Granadilla, about 3 km outside the town AELPV $F 2 Residencial El Vado E @ 423160. Open January–February only

s Excursions

There are archeological sites in the area, mostly rock paintings.

Quebrada del Condorito: Now incorporated into the Parque Nacional Quebrada del Condorito to preserve this area’s flora and fauna, particularly the condors. See also Parque Nacional Quebrada del Condorito on page 247

SAN FRANCISCO

San Francisco Population: 56 000 Postal code: 2400 @ area code: (03564) Altitude: 141 m Distance from Córdoba: 205 km east on RN 19

San Clemente

307

CÓRDOBA C Accommodation in San Francisco Hotels *** ** **

Gran Libertador, 25 de Mayo 1783 Mediterráneo, 9 de Julio 2655 Menfis, 25 de Mayo 2517

Residenciales A A A A A A A

Alex, Avenida Urquiza 1334 Americano, Mitre 76 Canadian, Urquiza 1115 Dunhill, Colón near Iturraspe Majestic, 9 de Julio 2142 Mitre, Mitre 83 San Jorge, Castelli 2847

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV

@ @ @

424680 fax 425566 fax 426677 fax

$E $F $F

2 2 2

LP LP EFLP EGLP LP EGLP EGLP

@ @ @ @ @ @

426118 426701/3 fax 420292 fax 424737 fax 426133 fax 424425 fax

$G $G $G

2 2 2

$G $G $H

2 2 2

@

420228

$G

2

Accommodation in Las Varillas Gran Hotel Las Varillas, 9 de Julio 100 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY EGLP • Hotel Mayo, Avellaneda 29 • Hotel El Mariscal, General Roca 140 • Hospedaje San Martín, Urquiza 38 EFGL

***

S

an Francisco is situated in the north-eastern part of Córdoba province, almost on the border with Santa Fe.

Also included here is Las Varillas, a small farming community located on RP 1 between Villa María (81 km south) and San Francisco (78 km north) This is the wet pampa.

There are 5 services daily to and from Córdoba and direct buses to Santa Fe. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267.

U Motoring

•

M Services and facilities •

Service station: A.C.A., Alberti 57

a Sport

•

Laundromat: Laverap, Bulevar Buenos Aires 147

S Buses

Jockey Club San Francisco, Avenida Los Colonizadores @ (0564) 426184

p Sightseeing

The bus terminal is on 9 de Julio 2272. • Ablo @ 430185 • El Serrano @ 422293 • Empresa Morteros @ 424090 • Empresa El Turista @ 425030 • Empresa T.A.C. @ 431511 • Empresa Mar Chiquita, J.B. Justo 65 @ 423967

Sightseeing in Las Varillas • Museo Regional Las Varillas (Varillas Regional Museum). Consisting of two rooms, it traces the development of the region and town from its beginnings. Open Mon–Fri 13:30–18:00

SAN JOSÉ DE LA DORMIDA

San José de la Dormida Distance from Córdoba: 126 km north on RN 9

T

his is the closest town with accommodation (albeit basic) when visiting the Reserva Cultural Natural Cerro Colorado archeological site.

308

San José de la Dormida

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation *

s Excursions

Motel San José, RN 9 KM 828 AEFLPV

When visiting Reserva Cultural Natural Cerro Colorado and there are no direct buses it is best to continue to Santa Elena a few kilometers north and walk the 11 km to the site.

S Buses

CACORBA and Ciudad de Córdoba run 3 services daily to and from Córdoba. See Buses from Córdoba on 267.

SAN MARCOS SIERRA

San Marcos Sierra Postal code: 5282 @ area code: (03549) Distance from Córdoba 103 km on RN 38

S

an Marcos Sierra is situated halfway between Cruz del Eje and Capilla del Monte at the northern end of the Sierras Chicas on the Río San Marcos, one of the rivers which form the Cruz del Eje reservoir. The natural forest in the area supports honey production.

A Festivals

S Buses

Fiesta de la Miel (Honey Festival), February

Coord. Valle de Punilla and La Cumbre run 3 services daily to and from Córdoba and the Punilla area. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267.

C Accommodation in San Marcos Sierra Hosterías ** *

El Sosiego, Libertad 842 Cielo y Tierra, San Martín

AEFGJLPUV AELPSV

Residenciales

A El Limón, San Martín EFGLP A La Posta de Antu, Libertad 1078 EFGLP A Los Horneros, San Martín 721 LP Also shared bath rooms A Parador de Amautas, Circunvalación LP Also shared bath room • Posada Del Bosque, El Rincón A Valle del Sol, Calle 28 near Circunvalación LP

Cabañas • • • •

Los Quijotes, San Martín 501 BCEGHLPRUV Vicente, Córdoba 1000 AGLP Pach Flo, Vélez Sarsfield 840 AFGHRV Paseo del Alfa, San Martín near Córdoba ABCP

San Marcos Sierra

309

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496127 496135

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496180 496112

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496123

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496213 496137

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496128 496152 496120 496102

CÓRDOBA

SANTA ROSA DE CALAMUCHITA

Santa Rosa de Calmuchita Population: 8000 Postal code: 5196 @ area code: (03546) Altitude: 584 m Distance from Córdoba: 106 km south on RN 36

S

anta Rosa de Calamuchita is located in the spurs of the Sierra de Pocho and Sierras Chicas on the Río Santa Rosa, in the Valle de Calamuchita. • El Gringo, Libertad 270 Cafeterías • La Vaca Echada, Libertad 165 • Mar Batt, Libertad 149

The town was named after Santa Rosa de Lima who was venerated here in 1700 in a little chapel on the banks of the river. Nowadays it is a tourist resort with good facilities. During the summer months the influx of tourists doubles the town’s population. The crystalline Río Santa Rosa has its source in the Cerro Champaqui. It is one of the main rivers feeding into the Dique Río Tercero dam.

n Entertainment

• •

I Post and telegraph

• •

A Festivals •

•

Banco de la Provincia de Córdoba, Libertad 599 @ 420255

M Services and facilities

Secretaría Municipal de Turismo, Córdoba 242 @ 420229 Centro de Atención al Turística, Güemes 13 @ 420762/420277 fax

•

Horse riding: on the other side of the iron bridge

S Buses

D Camping •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Libertad 71 Telephone: Telecom, Avenida José M. Gómez 636

L Financial

•

Santa Rosa de Lima: August 30

B Tourist information •

Stone Age, H. Yrigoyen 560. Disco La Ruta Pub, RP 5 near Independencia

• •

El Portezuelo, RP 5

E Eating out Restaurants • Amicci, Libertad 610. Parrilla • Don Mario, Güemes 15 • Gaby, Mendoza 92 • La Casona de los Amigos, R.J. Cárcano 1308. Parrilla • Los Pinos, Mendoza 156. Parrilla • Oásis, R.J. Cárcano 875. Parrilla

COLTA SACIF @ 420234 Sierras de Calamuchita, T.O.A., T.A. Chevallier and Yacanto run 10 services daily to and from Córdoba. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267

s Excursions

Santa Rosa is in a good position to explore the eastern side of the Sierra de Comechingones around Yacanto de Calamuchita some 30 km west, and from there 10 km further south to the mountain village of Durazno. This is a full-day excursion

Pizzerías • Don Chicho, Libertad 222

310

Santa Rosa de Calmuchita

PAMPA PROVINCES To Córdoba

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LA

C MU

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To Río Cuarto

Santa Rosa de Calmuchita

311

TA

CÓRDOBA C Accommodation in Santa Rosa de Calamuchita Complejo Turístico *

Hotels *** ** ** * * * * *

El Nogal, El Nogal 161 Santa Rosa, Entre Ríos 86 * Rey Eduardo, Libertad 348 * Sierras, J. Cárcano 1200 • Del Valle, Calle 34

** **

Residenciales América, Libertad 951 Ana Mar, Libertad 594 Angelita, Malvinas Argentinas 46 Ariand, Malvinas Argentinas 83 Aurora, Libertad 600 Avenida, R.J. Cárcano 571 Belvedere, Corrientes 250 Don Pedro, H.Yrigoyen 535 Hernancy, Dr. Benito Soria 350 El Trébol, Córdoba near M Moreno Las Violetas, Güemes 33 Piedras Negras, Cárcano 906 Hospedaje Santa Fe, Cárcano Hospedaje Pastrana, Corrientes 208

Accommodation on RP 5 ***

420752

$E

4

@

420691 fax

$F

2

@

420231

$F

1

@ @ @ @

420122 420657 420214 420226

@

420260

$H $G $G $G $G

2 2 2 2 2

AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AELPV AELPV

@ @ @ @ @

420145 420186 420165 420542 421284

$G $G $F/G $G

2 2 2 2

EGLP EGLP LP AEFLP EGLP AEFLP LP AEFLP LP LP LP EFGLP EFGLP APV

@ @ @ @

420738 420248 420205 420841

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

420166 420342 420164 420486 420671 420227 420433 421326 420167

$H $H $H $H $H $G $G $G

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@

421223

$E

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420401 420280 420231

Arcos del Río, R.J. Cárcano 350 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY El Parador de la Montaña AEFGJLPUV Bicycle hire; horse riding Colonia Santa Rosa, Córdoba 585 AEFGJLPUV Open only in holiday season El Sol Del 25, Costanera R.J. Cárcano AELPV Gloria, Dalmacio Vélez 50 AELPV Rex, Libertad 19 AELPV Rex (Annex), Mendoza 27 AELPV Torino, Libertad 355 AELPV

Hosterías

A A A A A A A A A A A A • •

@

AELPV

Valle del Sol, RP 5 KM 731

Ypora Palace, RP 5 KM 733

Accommodation at El Mirador El Mirador is a small village 9 km east of Santa Rosa. Cabañas

• Malike, Champaqui • Villa Jupinda 2, Morteros • El Parador de la Montaña,

TANINGA

Taninga Postal code: 5295 @ area code: (03542) Altitude: 920 m Distance from Córdoba: 136 km west on RP 20 then RP 28

312

Taninga

PAMPA PROVINCES

T

aninga is in the Río Salsacate valley, in the western part of the province. Nearby are the cones of the extinct volcanoes Yerba Buena, Poca, and Boroa.

C Accommodation

A Hotel la Posada del Cerro RP 15 LP * Hostería Los Túneles, RP 15 AELPV * Hostería San Francisco, RP 15 AELPV

•

S Buses

There are at least 4 buses daily to and from Córdoba

s Excursions • •

Salsacate 5 km north Parque Natural Chancani is located 60 km east of Taninga on RN 20 on the western side of the Sierra de Pocho. It covers 4960 ha (12 256 acres) and includes the Quebrada de la Mermela and Los Túneles. The area is covered with Chaco type forest. There is a park rangers home there and in the

vicinity possibility to camp. In the nearby villages of Chancani and Las Palmas is basic accommodation Monumento Natural Volcanes de Pocho. Located 15 km west of Taninga. It covers 8000 ha (19 768 acres) and includes three extinct volcanoes: Volcán Poca, Volcán Velis and Volcán Boroa. The flats are covered with Chaco type forest and dotted with palm trees. Of interest are the geological formations and there are also two colonial chapels in Pocho and La Palmas. In the Pampa de Pocho is Laguna de Pocho. Parque Natural Chancani and Monumento Volcanes de Pocho are linked via the Camino de los Túneles.

TANTI

Tanti Population: 3000 Postal code: 5155 @ area code: (03541) Altitude: 867 m Distance from Córdoba: 52 km west on RN 38 and RN 20

T

anti is a picturesque little mountain village in the foothills of the Sierra Grande. The village is scattered over a wide area and a mountain stream runs through the valley. It was settled by indigenous tribes in pre-Colombian times; in colonial times it was a stop on the western road to Alto Perú. From Tanti a scenic road leads over a mountain pass road to Salsacate with views of Cerro Los Gigantes.

B Tourist information • •

•

Dirección de Cultura de la Municipalidad, Belgrano near Tierra del Fuego @ 498170 Inside bus terminal, San Martín @ 498126

S Buses

The bus terminal is on the corner of Córdoba and San Martín. • Cotap, El Petizo, E.P.A., Pampa de Achala, and T.A. Chevallier run 17 services daily to and from Córdoba and the Punilla area. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267

E Eating out •

Confitería in terminal

I Post and telegraph •

Central post office, corner of Mendoza and San Martín

Tanti

Long-distance telephones, Belgrano 83

313

CÓRDOBA C Accommodation in Tanti Hotels * * * *

Hosterías * * *

@ @ @ @

498297 498146 498130 498145

$F $H $H $G

2 2 1 2

AELPSV AELPV AELPV

@ @ @

498147 498187 498162

$H $H $H

2 2 2

EFLP EGLP EFGLP

@

498190

@

498178

$H $H $H

2 2 2

El Bosque, Belgrano 822 near RN 20 AELPV Los Algarrobos, Ave. General Paz 122AELPV San Martín, San Martín 365 AELPV Tanti, General Paz 115 AELPV Los Manantiales, Moreno 80 Las Margaritas, Rosario La Zulmita, Río Negro

Residenciales

A El Sol, Tucumán A Los Pinos, General Paz 836 • Sans Souci, Tucumán

•

s Excursions •

• •

Mogote Los Gigantes: 32 km on RN 20 west. At 2350 m, the highest peak in the Sierra Grande. Panoramic views, easy ascent. Take an Empresa 20 de Junio bus La Cascada: A 20 m waterfall situated 100 m above the Balneario El Diquecito, within the town Río Los Chorrillos: 6 km from town on RN 20. A 120 m waterfall

Laguna Brava: Located in a horseshoe-shaped cañon, formed by the Río Yuspe. It is covered in thick vegetation, and there are caves formed by the river. The Capilla San José de los Ríos in the nearby small village was built between 1721 and 1745. This is a full day excursion

UNQUILLO

Unquillo Postal code: 5109 @ area code: (0351) Altitude: 566 m Distance from Córdoba: 25 km north-west on RP 57

U

nquillo is a small resort town on the eastern slopes of the Sierras Chicas. Here was the home of one of Argentina’s best-known painters, Lino Enea Spilimbergo. His house has been converted into a museum.

C Accommodation

s Excursions

•

A Hospedaje Amaya, Alberdi 188 ELP @ 488502 $H 2 A Hospedaje La Susanita, San Martín 1900 ELP @ 489288 $H 2

Cosquín: A scenic drive over the Sierras Chicas past Cerro Pan de Azúcar

S Buses

There are regular daily buses to Córdoba.

314

Unquillo

PAMPA PROVINCES

VICUÑA MACKENNA

Vicuña Mackenna Postal code: 6140 @ area code: (03583) Distance to Río Cuarto: 89 km north on RN 35

V

icuña Mackenna is situated on the RN 7 at the intersection with RN 35 in the southern part of the province. F C General San Martín railroad is now closed for passenger traffic. It is still an important crossroad, with a few hotels, and is a convenient stopover between Buenos Aires and Mendoza.

C Accommodation

**

A Hospedaje Sercos, Intendente Gómez 744 EFHP @ 420059

Motel Tala Penda, Intersection of RN 7 and RN 35 AEFGJLPUV @ 421000 $G 2

VILLA CARLOS PAZ

Villa Carlos Paz Population: 42 000 Postal code: 5152 @ area code: (03541) Altitude: 640 m Distance from Córdoba: 36 km west on RN 38

V

illa Carlos Paz is the largest tourist resort in the Punilla valley, situated on the artificial Lago San Roque at the foot of Cerro La Cruz. It is the nearest vacation town to Córdoba. The area on which Villa Carlos Paz stands was given to Juan de Nadal, who accompanied the founder of Córdoba, Juan L de Cabrera, in 1573. The area was then known by its indigenous name of Valle de Quizquicate after the Comechingones people who inhabited the valley; it later became known as Estancia Santa Leocadia. In 1869 the land was acquired by two partners, Rudecindo Paz and Gabriel Cuello. Cuello sold out to the Paz family, whose vision made the farm prosperous. More families settled around the farm and a town planner was engaged in 1914. The old farm disappeared in the lake created by construction of the dam. Vicuña Mackenna

Villa Carlos Paz has excellent tourist facilities with scores of first-class hotels and restaurants. It is linked to the city of Córdoba by a six-lane 40 km long highway and may be considered as the “playground of the Cordobeses”. The entertainment ranges from casinos and night-clubs to outdoor activities on the lake such as swimming, fishing, boating, wind surfing, and sailing. There are tennis courts, ice rinks, and even parachute jumps into the lake. For those wishing to spend a few quiet days there are many idyllic guest houses scattered along the lake shores within easy reach of the city. Many tour operators arrange

315

CÓRDOBA •

day tours in the surrounding hinterland with its valleys and sierras. The restaurants and eating places in Villa Carlos Paz have been rated by local authorities, in a similar manner to hotels.

• • • • •

A Festivals •

Fiesta Provincial de los Lagos (Provincial Festival of the Lakes): January Fiesta Patronal Nuestra Señora del Carmen (Festival of the Patron Saint): July 16

•

E Eating out

Restaurants in Carlos Villa Paz have been assigned ratings by the local tourist authority. Restaurants *** El Dorado, San Martín 1500. Seafood *** Hostal del Sol, Avenida San Martín 1991 *** La Casa de Pedro, Uruguay 464 *** La Terminal, San Martín 410 *** Mariel I, La Paz 135 ** Brec, San Martín near Yrigoyen. Big ** El Ancla, H Yrigoyen 994 ** Kan-Kun, corner of Atlántica and Lincoln ** Stilo, Belgrano 140 ** Vieja Recova, General Paz 247

B Tourist information

You pass a tourist information kiosk in the central strip on San Martín when entering town from the Córdoba side. • Secretaría Municipal de Turismo, San Martín 400, at the bus station @ 421624; e-mail: [email protected] • Villa Carlos Paz Web site: [email protected]

D Camping •

A.C.A., Avenida San Martín near N Huapi AEFGH. Huge complex Bahía del Gitano, Artigas near Azopardo

•

Carlos Paz, corner of Urquiza and Derqui Club Cazadores y Pescadores, Gobernador Ferreyra near Avenida Atlántica Club de Pesca, Esparta near Avenida Atlántica La Ribera, Ayacucho near Costanera Las Tolderías, Comechingones AEL Los Pinos, Curros Enriquez near Lincoln

20

BV

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VILLA CARLOS PAZ METROPOLITANA

TÍ

Villa Carlos Paz

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Villa Carlos Paz

See also Accommodiation in Bialet Massé on page 254, and in Villa Icho Cruz on page 335. Accommodation in the city center South of the lake, between General La Paz and 9 de Julio at one end and Tucumán and H Yrigoyen at the other. Hotels *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Avenida, General Paz 549 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Catedral, Florida 377 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Eiffel, H Yrigoyen 706 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Florida, Belgrano 45 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Linz, La Rioja 68 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Mon Petit, Avenida Libertad 285 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 425006 Platino, Las Heras 60 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Sialdorf, Uruguay corner of Liniers ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Taormina, Moreno 185 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: [email protected] Uruguay, Uruguay 730 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Andino, Uruguay 1040 AEFGJLPUV Arenales, Alberdi 43 AEFGJLPUV Argentino, Bruselas 58 AEFGJLPUV Brisas, Maipú 50 AEFGJLPUV California, Avenida Libertador 359 AEFGJLPUV Capvio, Curro Enriquez 15 AEFGJLPUV Casino, Maipú 90 AEFGJLPUV Centauro, Florida 181 AEFGJLPUV Colonial, Florida 281 AEFGJLPUV Cóndor, Florida 160 AEFGJLPUV Córdoba, Belgrano 175 AEFGJLPUV Coronado Big Confort, General Paz 289AEFGJLPUV El Cid, H Yrigoyen 250 AEFGJLPUV El Monte, Caseros 45 AEFGJLPUV Enri Mar, H Yrigoyen 148 AEFGJLPUV Lion d’Or, Entre Ríos 79 AEFGJLPUV Marciala, Güemes 164 AEFGJLPUV Mont Pelé, Ave. Uruguay near Solís AEFGJLPUV Playa, 9 de Julio 162 AEFGJLPUV Plaza Huincul, Uruguay 832 AEFGJLPUV Vesubio, Entre Ríos 40 AEFGJLPUV Wanda, Alvear 479 AEFGJLPUV Arno, Moreno 39 AELPV Bahía, San Martín 375 AELPV Belgrano, Belgrano 155 AELPV Charicar, Ignacio Hidalgo 20 AELPV Dana, H Yrigoyen 290 AELPV Escorial, Moreno 130 AELPV Gisel, Salta 180 AELPV Hawai, Uruguay 830 AELPV Hermitage, Alvear 570 AELPV Hurlingham, Alvear near General Paz AELPV Italia, 9 de Julio 155 AELPV La Tebra, L.N. Alem near Hernández AELPV Los Laureles, Intendente Juan García 673 AELPV

Villa Carlos Paz

317

@ @ @ @ @

431573 421506 fax 423230 fax 421905 fax 422053

$F $F $F $F $E

2 2 2 2 2

@ @ @

421704 424075/7 fax 421158 fax

$E $E $F

2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

421711 fax 422335 fax 422646 421112 421557 421587 421706 423595 fax 421670 421625 421510 422303 421963 422354 421358 fax 422001 fax 421362 421045 423020 421011 421467 421109 421186 421670 421691 422370 421319 421211 423695 422541 424226 428871 423897 422995 421811 421536 423670 fax

$F $E $H $G $F $H $F $F $G $G $H $G $H $D $F $F $H $H $G $G $G $F $G $F $G $G $H $H $G $H $H $H $H $G $H $G $H

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

CÓRDOBA Accommodation in Villa Carlos Paz — continued * * * *

Pérgola, Florida 416 Posada Sol, Florida 190 Santander, Avenida General Paz 401 Suyay, Perito Moreno 565

AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV

Hosterías *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * *

El Ciervo de Oro, H Yrigoyen 995 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Alpenrose, H Yrigoyen 615 AEFGJLPUV Cerro Azul, Tucumán 298 AEFGJLPUV Dora, H Yrigoyen 137 AEFGJLPUV El Bosque, Florida 191 AEFGJLPUV Las Vertientes, Santa Fe 1200 AEFGJLPUV Panambí, Uruguay block 600 near Liniers AEFGJLPUV Rey, Belgrano 149 AEFGJLPUV Marili, Avenida Uruguay 870 AEFGJLPUV Lalo, Florida 163 AELPV Le Blanc, Alvear 199 AELPV Yokavil, Tucumán 98 AELPV

Residenciales A A A A A A A A A

Carlitos, Avenida Libertad 432 EFGLP Castelar, Avenida Libertad 56 AEFGLP Charo, Alvear 667 AEGLP Don Carlos, Sabattini 55 GLP Dream’s, Avenida Uruguay 848 ELP Durango, Maipú 179 EFGLP Grisabel, Maipú 145 GLP Las Lilas, La Rioja 79 EFLP Platero, General Paz block 300 near Pasaje Bardi EFGLP A Portal del Sol, Fidel López 150 AEGLP A San José, Alvear 191 AEFGLP A Yolan, Florida 136 LP

Accommodation in the center north North of the lake, between 9 de Julio and Uruguay. Hotels *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * * * * * *

Gran Lourdes, Cassafousth 63 Amanda Sol, La Paz 127 La Toscana, Mitre 63 Leonard, Cassafousth 258 Montecarlo, Uruguay 120 Montecatini, Curuzú Cuatiá 100 Nuevo Italiano, Uruguay 253 Temú, Uruguay 150 Anita, Esquiú 52 Bahía Norte, José H. Porto 326 Buenos Aires, Cassafousth 181 City, Sarmiento 248 Comodoro, Cassafousth 99 De La Costa, Uruguay 338 Dunes, Mitre 66 El Mirador, Echeverría 69 Enzo, Curuzú Cuatiá 43 Etna, Esquiú 56

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV AEFHLPV AELPV AELPV AELPV AEFGHLPUV

318

@ @ @ @

421512 421683 422359 424791

$G $H $G $H

2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

422498 430095 423946 421361 fax 421906 421687 422151 fax 423947 423424 421903 422268 421406

$E $F $H $H $G

2 2 2 2 2

$G $G $H $H $H $H

2 2 2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

423073 420200 423999 422597 425804 426141 425976 423497

$H $G $H $H $H $H $H $H

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @

427080 424750 422372 423794

$H $H $H $H

2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

421820 421957 fax 422746 422949 422251 423715 fax 422202 fax 423899 fax 421938 421160 421389 431349 421835 422447 fax 421304 428985 421695 421474

$E $G $G $G $F $F $F $G $H $H $H $G $H $G $G $G $H $H

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

Villa Carlos Paz

PAMPA PROVINCES Accommodation in Villa Carlos Paz — continued * * * * *

Giordano Polano, Sarmiento 438 Imperial, Bialet Massé 386 La Quinta, La Paz 39 Siel, 9 de Julio 910 near Roma Suiza, C Pellegrini 522

Hosterías * * * * * *

La Candela, Roma 276 Lucca, Miguel Juárez 38 Mar del Plata, Esquiú 47 Ritz, Uruguay 38 San Francisco II, H Porto 116 Yuspe, La Paz 59

Residenciales A A A A A

Del Valle, H Porto 27 Flamingo, Bialet Massé 216 Luxor, Colón 66 Necochea, Esquiú 98 Nuevo Astral, Mitre 65

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Accommodation west of the city center West of General Paz and 9 de Julio. Hotels *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * * * * *

Atalaya, Cárcano 192 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Grand Prix, L. de la Torre 45 ACDEFGHJKLPTUVY Del Carmen, San Roque 274 AEFGJLPUV Jalisco, San Roque 463 AEFGJLPUV Grand Hotel, Juan B Justo 314 AEFGJLPUV Montebianco, Lisandro de la Torre 103 AEFGJLPUV Norvil, Los Eucaliptos 350 AEFGJLPUV Savoy, Pasaje Sorrentino 73 AEFGJLPUV Skorpios, Antártida 142 near F Sánchez AEFGJLPUV Bella Vista, Las Malvinas 351 AELPV El Triángulo, Cárcano 1300 AELPV Embajador, Estrada 193 AELPV Marbot, Estrada 200 AELPV Maspaloma, José Ribera 30 AELPV Parque Carlos Paz, Santa Fe 50 AELPV Ruca, Juan B Justo 141 AELPV Torino, Cárcano 56 AELPV

Hosterías ** ** * * * *

Covadonga, Lules 29 Los Espinillos, Pavón 50 Intihuasi, Avenida Estrada 103 Jocar, Juan de Garay 49 Maury, El Redentor 146 Terraza del Sol, Avenida Estrada 179

Residenciales

A Cosmos, San Roque 303 A San Jorge, San Roque 66 A Santa Cecilia, Ingenieros 299 Tennis courts

Villa Carlos Paz

319

CÓRDOBA Accommodation in Villa Carlos Paz — continued Accommodation east of the city center towards Córdoba Hotels **** **** **** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * *

Las Lajas, Avenida San Martín 2475 near España @ 422339 fax ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Libertador, Avenida San Martín 1001 near Córdoba @ 420170 Solarium ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Portal del Lago, Gobernador Alvarez and Cabrera ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 423438, sauna @ 424931/2 Macondo, San Martín near G Mistral ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 428854 Mónaco, Avenida San Martín near Zuviría ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Tennis courts @ 421142 fax Ananque, Avenida San Martín 927 AEFGJLPUV @ 423949 El Tala, Roque Sáenz Peña 54 AEFGJLPUV @ 423547 Florencia, San Martín 595 AEFGJLPUV @ 422599 Gladys, Roque Sáenz Peña 68 AEFGJLPUV @ 422161 Gure Echea, Avenida San Martín 749 AEFGJLPUV @ 422549 fax King, Avenida San Martín 2500 AEFGJLPUV @ 421545 La Casona, Córdoba 72 AEFGJLPUV @ 422870 Los Sauces, Avenida San Martín 502 AEFGJLPUV @ 421807 Riviera, Lincoln 3 near Ave. San Martín AEFGJLPUV @ 423494 Rolson, Avenida San Martín 1097 AEFGJLPUV @ 421210 fax Victory, Andrea del Sarto 25 AEFGJLPUV @ 422279 El Lucy, Martín Fierro 92 AELPV @ 425173 Magú, Buenos Aires near Tokio AELPV @ 422742

Apart Hotels ***

San Isidro, Tokio 150

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Motels ** *

La Cuesta, Avenida San Martín 1489 near O Wilde AEFGJLPUV El Arbol, Avenida San Martín near Gobernador Garzón AEFGLPV

Hosterías ** * * * * * *

El Grillo, Gobernador Ferreyra 212 Chatele’t, Buenos Aires 37 Criced, Avenida San Martín 1388 Cruz del Sur, Martín Fierro 91 Graciela, Lincoln 103 Los Arrayanes, Buenos Aires 221 Torreblanca, Galileo 62

AEFGJLPUV AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV

Residenciales

A Aloha, Martín Fierro 30 EFGHLP A Augustus, José Ingenieros 10 near Avenida General Paz AEFGLP A San Marcos, Artigas 101 LP • Saint Tropez, Avenida San Martín 2921 EFGLP

320

Villa Carlos Paz

PAMPA PROVINCES Accommodation in Villa Carlos Paz — continued Accommodation outside Villa Carlos Paz on RN 38 north Hotels *** *** ** *

Casablanca, Bulevar Sarmiento 1001 Tennis, boat hire, solarium El Faro, Bulevar Sarmiento 1110 Los Cerros, Bulevar Sarmiento 1002 Achalay, Sarmiento 999

Hosterías *

Santiagueña, RN 20 KM 743

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429206 421151 423995 421153

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Accommodation in Villa Parque Siquiman Villa Parque Siquiman is located 12 km north of Villa Carlos Paz on RN 38. **

Hostería Parque Siquiman

Motels **

Puente Negro, RN 20 KM 743

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Parrillas A parrilla is a charcoal grill. *** El Rancho Por’a, Uruguay 472 *** L a C a s o n a , S a n M a r t í n n e a r Gobernador Roca *** Tauro, General Paz 152 ** La Tranquera, San Martín 1506 ** La Posta, San Martín near Tirzo de Molina * Mingo, Uruguay 735 (opposite Hotel Uruguay) • Quincho El Fantasio, Perito Moreno Lomiterías A lomitería is a small parrilla. *** Que Tal, Pasaje San Ignacio near General Paz Pizzerías ** El Viejo Marconi, 9 de Julio 146 * Chiquini, San Martín 945 • San Cayetano, Libertad 100

Pizzerías La Corona, 9 de Julio 398 * Cu-Cu, Sarmiento 445 • Bristol, Sarmiento 296 Confiterías *** Hermitage, 9 de Julio 469 *** Nautique, Sarmiento near H Porto ** Le Blon, Sarmiento 258 ** Vieja Recova, Sarmiento 402 • Coronado, General Paz 289 Eating out in Villa del Lago On the road to La Falda. ***

* * ***

n Entertainment

•

Confiterías A confitería is literally a confectioner’s shop, but is more like a tearoom. ****El Bosque, San Martín 1470 *** Kan-Kun, Avenida Atlántica near Lincoln ** Aerosilla, Florencia Sánchez ** Isaura, San Martín near Villalobos; part of the service station • A.C.A., San Martín near Medrano in the camping grounds • Charo, Libertad 362

•

Eating out in the center north La Casa del Gitano, 9 de Julio 387

*

Villa Carlos Paz

Parrilla Copacabana II, Sarmiento 919 Parrilla El Rey del Cabrito, Sarmiento 553 Confitería Portobello, Sarmiento 1111

321

Aerosilla Carlos Paz tourist complex, F Sánchez 300. At the foot of the mountain there is a swimming pool with solarium. You can take a chair lift to the top where there is a cafeteria, a night-club, and a miniature train set, as well as great views over the city, Lago San Roque, and the mountains surrounding the city Complejo Turístico de Peko, on RN 20, 5 km north of town before the turnoff to Tanti, is a castle-shaped building which houses optical illusions, a small zoo, an aquarium, a garden maze, and a confitería. Precious and semi-precious stones are on display and for sale

CÓRDOBA Key to map A C D E I T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Secretaría Municipal de Turismo Bus Terminals

3 Accommodation 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 22 23 24 25 27 29

•

• • • • • • • • • •

Hotel Enzo Hotel La Toscana Residencial Nuevo Astral Residencial San Antonio Hotel Dunes Residencial Luxor Residencial Del Valle Hostería Mar del Plata Hotel Anita Hotel Etna Residencial Necochea Hotel Gran Lourdes Hotel Comodoro Hotel Buenos Aires Hostería Ritz Hotel Montecarlo Hotel Temú Hotel Nuevo Italiano Hotel Suiza Hotel Condado Hotel Leonard Hotel De La Costa Hotel Grand Prix Hotel Sialdorf Hotel Capvio

30 31 32 33 34 35 36 38 39 41 42 44 45 46 47 48 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 65

Hotel Uruguay Hostería Graciela Hotel Los Sauces Hotel Hawai, Hotel Plaza Huincul and Residencial Dream’s Hotel Riviera Hotel El Monte Hotel Arenales Hotel California and Hotel Bahía Hotel Florida Hotel Brisas Hotel Casino Hotel Florencia Hotel Arno Hotel Hermitage Residencial Carlitos Hotel Ananque Hostería Yokavil Hotel La Casona Hotel Rolson Residencial Augustus Residencial Castelar Residencial San José Hostería Le Blanc Hostería Lalo Hotel Centauro Residencial Yolan Hotel Cóndor Hotel Posada Sol Hostería Rey Hotel Córdoba Hotel Belgrano

•

Complejo Turístico Montaña Mágica (Magic Mountain Tourist Complex) at the end of Calle Córdoba (corner of Los Cerros). Tobogganing on artificial snow, swimming pool, solarium; views over the city and lake; confitería Bingo Sala Azul, Avenida 9 de Julio 53 Casino Sala Dorada, Avenida 9 de Julio 26 Casino Sala de los Espejos, Avenida San Martín 36 Disco Keop’s, corner of RS Peña and Seneca Disco Khalama, Avenida Estrada 113 Disco Molino Rojo, Avenida 9 de Julio 623 (center north) English-style Bar: Chez Ami, corner of L N Alem and J Hernández Tanguería El Mangrullo, Avenida Libertad near Salta Teatro ”Bar”, Avenida General Paz 27 Teatro Candilejas, Pasaje Carolinas near L. de la Torre

• •

• • • • • • • • •

322

66 67 68 69 70 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 83 84

Residencial Grisabel Residencial Durango Hotel Wanda Hotel Taormina Hotel Escorial Hotel Vesubio Residencial San Jorge Hotel Lion d’Or Hotel Mon Petit Residencial Las Lilas Hotel Linz Hotel Parque Carlos Paz Hostería Maury Hospedaje Las Vegas Hotel Del Carmen Residencial Cosmos Hotel Jalisco

4 Eating out

28 Restaurant La Casa de Pedro and Parrilla El Rancho Por’a 49 Chiquini 64 Restaurant Stilo 71 Confitería Charo

5 Entertainment 26 37 40 43 82

Casino Sala de los Espejos Teatro La Sombrilla Teatro del Lago Teatro Moliere La Casa de Caspar

Services

21 Laverap

Teatro Carlos Paz, Avenida 9 de Julio 282 Teatro Cómico, Avenida 9 de Julio 50 in Galería Argeo Teatro de la Villa, a theater complex on the corner of Avenida Uruguay and Liniers. The two theaters within the complex are called the “Sala Verde” (“Green Room”) and the “Sala Ocre” (“Ochre Room”) Teatro del Lago, Belgrano 75 Teatro del Sol, Avenida General Paz 242 Teatro Estrellas, Avenida 9 de Julio 25 Teatro La Sombrilla, Alberdi 50 Teatro Marconi, Avenida 9 de Julio 160 Teatro Moliere, Avenida San Martín 545 Teatro Orfeo, Avenida General Paz 27 Teatro Quijote, corner of Liniers and Avellaneda Teatro Yolanda, Avenida 9 de Julio 70

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Teatro Zorba, corner of Avenida Cárcano and S Roque

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Laundromats • Lavandería Centro, Lisandro de la Torre 61

323

CÓRDOBA •

•

Laverap, Pellegrini 267 (in the center north of town). Open Mon–Sat 08:00–21:00

Tennis Ranch Carlos Paz, San Martín block 2200; 08:00–23:00. Tennis court illuminated Boating • Alas Argentinas, López y Planes. Sailing boat hire • Asociación Clubes de Remo, J L de Cabrera. Rowboat hire • Los 400 Yacht Club, Tagoré • Motonáutico Córdoba, J S Bach • Náutico Córdoba, Vespucio

N Clubs • •

German: Club Alemán, Independencia 201 Italian: Centro Italiano, Avenida Libertad near Belgrano

S Buses

The bus terminal is on the corner of Avenida San Martín and Belgrano. It houses a restaurant (upstairs), confitería, telephones, post office, clean rest rooms and a luggage depot. • Contal, Coord. Valle de Punilla, Costera Criolla, Cotap, El Petizo, El Serrano, E.P.A., Pampa de Achala, and T.A. Chevallier run 15 services daily to and from Córdoba and the Punilla area. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267 • ABLO @ 423298 (Rosario–Buenos Aires) • CACORBA @ 439150 • Costera Criolla ° Buenos Aires–Mar del Plata • El Serrano ° Santa Fe–Paraná–Corrientes • General Urquiza ° Rosario–Buenos Aires • Sierras de Córdoba ° Rosario–Buenos Aires • T.A. Chevallier ° Rosario–Buenos Aires

s Excursions Tour operators • Bambi Turismo, 9 de Julio 172 @ 421855 fax 421706 • Sierra Expediciones, La Paz 166 @ 428492 fax Excursions Tours on amphibious buses go as far as the two dams on the lake. From there there are 21 2-hour launch trips around the lake. Between 09:00 and 19:00 a chair lift ($2.50) runs up Cerro Carlos Paz; tearoom and nightclub overlooking the valley. • Capilla del Monte: This is the classic Punilla excursion visiting Cosquín (with Cerro Pan de Azúcar in the range to the east), La Falda, and La Cumbre to Capilla del Monte. Most of this trip can be done using public buses but tour operators organize half-day tours • Mina Clavero and Los Túneles via Taninga: This trip combines the so-called “Túnel y Volcán” (Tunnel and Volcano) excursions with the High Peaks road. From Villa Carlos Paz you travel north to the junction with RP 28 where the Túnel y Volcán road begins. The road passes through Tanti, then starts climbing towards Mogote Los Gigantes (2376 m), the highest peak of the Sierra Grande. The Club Andino Carlos Paz has two mountain refugios accommodating 40 people near the peak. If you are interested in staying there, check with the tourist information in Villa Carlos Paz. The road then descends to the Río Yuspe and Pampa de San Luis. After passing Cuchilla Nevada it passes through the Valle del Río San

U Motoring Service stations • A.C.A., corner of Avenida San Martín and Medrano • Esso, Avenida San Martín block 1100 (corner of Lincoln) Car rental • Dollar S.A., Gob. Alvarez near Cabrera

Y Shopping

Best buys are leather mats, bags, and pottery.

a Sport •

Roller skating and optical illusions: La Casa de Caspar, El Redentor 350 near M Cane

324

Villa Carlos Paz

PAMPA PROVINCES

•

Guillermo and passes near Dos Ríos, the lowest part, which separates the Sierra Grande to the south and Cumbres de Gaspar to the north. On approaching Taninga the road becomes picturesque once again as the regular cones of the long-extinct volcanoes Yerba Buena, Boroa, and others become visible. After that the trip crosses the Pampa de Pocho on a straight road to Las Palmas. During the Spanish colonial period this was a larger settlement as the main road to the altiplano passed through here. Evidence of its importance is shown by an old colonial church, Capilla de las Palmas, which was built in 1639 and is one of the oldest buildings in the region. It was built of adobe in simplistic colonial style. From Las Palmas it is only a short distance to the túneles. Returning to Las Palmas you take the road south through the Pampa de Pocho; there are patches of Caranday palms along the road. Some 20 km east of Pocho is the Laguna de Pocho, whose waters are said to have medicinal properties. In 1882 the gaucho priest Brochero completed the first irrigation water reservoir in Villa Cura Brochero. The aqueducts can still be seen in the vicinity RN 20 links Villa Carlos Paz with Mina Clavero crossing the Cumbres de Achala; this is an alternative picturesque mountain-pass road with great panoramic views. The road is now sealed and curves gently uphill and reaches its highest point at El Cóndor. There is a cafeteria here, but no hotel. From this point the Lago San Roque and Villa Carlos Paz can

•

be seen for the first time. Tour buses usually stop here for a meal break. From El Cóndor it is possible to reach the Franciscan colegio (school) along an 18 km trail. The colegio is situated on the western slopes of the Sierra Grande at the headwaters of the Río Ruga. Continuing the trip from El Condor to Villa Carlos Paz the road starts to curve, and between Casilla Negra and Copina passes through some particularly scenic country, with sweeping views over the Río Icho Cruz valley and the Sierra Grande to the north, with occasional glimpses of Lago San Roque. Road works are still in progress on this stretch. The bus arrives back in Villa Carlos Paz in late afternoon. You can do this trip with a tour operator or by yourself using buses run by Empresa 20 de Junio and El Petizo La Cumbrecita: This excursion brings you to the Swiss-style mountain retreat going south past Embalse Los Molinos, a huge artificial lake of about 2500 ha (6178 acres). The turn-off from the main road is just south of this lake near Los Reartes. From here it is 16 km to the first “Swiss” village of Villa Berna. The road winds along the valley with views of the Sierra de Comechingones and Sierra de Achala. La Cumbrecita (1480 m) is situated in mountains covered with pine forests. Tour operators run trips on Saturdays departing at 0700. See also La Cumbrecita on page 286

VILLA CIUDAD DE AMÉRICA

Villa Ciudad de América @ area code: (03546) Distance from Córdoba: 65 km south on RN 36

V

illa Ciudad de América is situated on the northern shore of Embalse Los Molinos. It has good tourist facilities and is a center for water sports such as water-skiing, fishing, and wind surfing.

Villa Ciudad de América

325

CÓRDOBA C Accommodation ** *

S Buses

•

Hotel Lago Los Molinos, RP 36 KM 769 AEFGJLPUV @ 462600 fax $F 2 Hotel Fatima, RP 5 KM 770 AELPV $G 2

Sierras de Calamuchita and T.O.A., run 6 services daily to and from Córdoba. See also Buses from Córdoba on page 267. There are also buses to Río Cuarto via Villa Rumipal

VILLA DE MARÍA DEL RÍO SECO

Villa de María del Río Seco @ area code: (03522) Altitude: 315 m Distance from Córdoba: 175 km north of Córdoba on RN 9

L

ocated in the northernmost part of the province, this is the birthplace of Leopoldo Lugones, a poet of country life, whose house is now a museum. During colonial times it was a staging post on the Camino Real to Alto Perú. The small Museo Arqueológico Municipal Enrique Ulla exhibits archeological items found in the area.

S Buses

It is a convenient stopover en route to Santiago del Estero. A few kilometers before arriving in Villa de María at Santa Elena is the turnoff east to the important archeological site Reserva Cultural Natural Cerro Colorado; see page 301. The area is somewhat held back by the lack of a solid tourist infrastructure. In fact the two places listed as accommodation may not be open, so please check beforehand.

There are 10 daily services to and from Córdoba. See Buses from Córdoba, Mercado Sur local bus terminal, on page 270.

s Excursions

•

C Accommodation •

•

Residencial La Posada, Vicente Peñalosa 525 @ (03522) 422167 fax $G 2 Residencial Sumaj Huasi, Avenida F.Rizzuto 660 @ (03522) 422321 $H 2

San Francisco del Chañar: Small mountain streams cascade down into the plains where they gradually disappear in the swamps on their way to Laguna Mar Chiquita. They form cascades in the upper reaches; a particular picturesque spot is near Las Bates where the 200 m rock wall is of intense red color. This is also an area of archeological importance

VILLA DE SOTO

Villa de Soto Postal code: 5284 @ area code: (03549) Altitude: 530 m Distance from Córdoba: 171 km north-west on RN 38

326

Villa de Soto

PAMPA PROVINCES

V

illa de Soto is situated in the north-west near La Rioja province, close to the Salinas Grandes. It is one of the driest areas in Córdoba province. Some 22km west is the Embalse de Pichana completed in 1978. The upper reaches of the Río Salsacate could be of interest to hikers.

C Accommodation **

•

S Buses

•

Hostería Martínez, J I Peralta 726 AEFGJLPUV @ 480337 $G 2 Hospedaje Costanera, J H. Porto 1076 $H 2

Contal, Pampa de Achala, and T.A. Chevallier run 9 services daily to and from Córdoba and the Punilla area. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267. There are also buses to La Rioja

VILLA DEL DIQUE

Villa del Dique Postal code: 5862 @ area code: (03546) Distance from Córdoba: 117 km south-west on RN 36

V

illa del Dique is situated on the northern shore of the artificial lake Embalse del Río Tercero, the largest of a string of lakes on the Río Tercero. It is a good place for water sports.

C Accommodation * * * *

• •

•

Apart Hotel Costa del Sol, Villa Guadalupe AELPV @ 497426 $E 2 Hotel Venecia, Hipólito Yrigoyen AELPV @ 497252 $H 2 Hostería Caribe, Calle Principal AELPV @ 97466 $G 2 Hostería Santa Marta AELPSV @ 497258 $G 2 Residencial La Armonia, RP 5 KM 720 EFGHLPRUV @ 497415 $H 2; also shared bath-room Cabañas Colonia Almirante Brown (A.C.A.), at the town entrance @ 497283

Villa del Totoral

Cabañas Norma, RP 5 KM 750 @ 497516

D Camping

•

Camping Municipal, on the north-west side of the Embalse Río Tercero @ 97550; capacity 400 tents, AFLT, in a forested area

S Buses

•

COLTA SACIF @ 497296; for services see Buses from Córdoba on page 267.

VILLA DEL TOTORAL

T

his little town located 71 km north of Córdoba was already in colonial times a summer resort. One of the old colonial houses was the home of the poet Octavio Pinto, now a museum. You can also visit the bodega which belonged to the family of Don Jerónimo Luis de Cabrera, the founder of the city of Córdoba.

Villa del Dique

327

CÓRDOBA S Buses

The center of town is a time capsule, dotted with buildings built around the 1870s. During the Spanish colonial time it was a staging post on the Camino Real.

There are 23 daily services to and from Córdoba. See Buses from Córdoba, local bus terminal on Entre Ríos, on page 270.

s Excursions

•

C Accommodation *

•

Hostería La Posada del Totoral, Bulevar Serafini near Santa Rosa AELPV @ (03524) 447485 $H 2 Hospedaje Rodríguez, 9 De Julio 82 @(03524) 447058 $H 2

A short walk from town along the river brings you to Estancia La Loma. On the way you pass archeological sites mostly grinding stones which were used by the Comechingones Indians to grind corn

VILLA DOLORES

Villa Dolores Population: 26 000 Postal code: 5870 @ area code: (03544) Altitude: 529 m Distance from Córdoba: 190 km south-west on RP 14/20

V

illa Dolores is situated in the Río San Javier valley on the Río Los Sauces, on the western side of the Sierra de Comechingones. The region is also known as “Traslasierra” (or “behind the mountains” as seen from Córdoba). The town has views to Cerro Champaqui and is a good base for walks in the mountains. Wine, olives, tobacco, and walnuts are extensively grown in the area. The Traslasierra road to Villa Carlos Paz is now completely paved.

Included here are the mountain resorts of La Población, Las Tapias, and Villa Las Rosas. La Población is situated in the western foothills of the Sierra de Comechingones some 26 km south east of Villa Dolores. Las Tapias is located 7 km east of Villa Dolores. It is a small township surrounded by vineyards in the shade of the Sierra de Comechingones and 10 km south of Lago La Viña, an artificial lake with water-sport facilities. Villa Las Rosas is located 13 km east of Villa Dolores in vineyard

country; it has accommodation and public transport.

B Tourist information

•

Oficina de Informes y Turismo, 25 de Mayo 1 @ 421006. Information about archeology in the area

D Camping

•

Piedras Pintadas, 5 km from town center near Lago Los Sauces. 15 minutes by bus #1

E Eating out

•

328

Restaurant Piedras Pintadas. Dancing

Villa Dolores

PAMPA PROVINCES VILLA DOLORES es

14

AVE. BELGRANO

148

A

ES

11

UN NF

RAMÓN J. CÁRCANO

EA .D

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To Córdoba

MONTEVIDEO

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BV

R. DE ESCALADA

AVENIDA GENERAL SAN MARTÍN

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ESTEBÁN ECHEVERRIA

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CURA BROCHERO PELLEGRINI

SEGURA

KENNEDY

INDEPENDENCIA

STANISLAO S ILV A

Key to map A C D E I T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Oficina de Informes y Turismo Bus terminal

LAPRIDA

3 Accommodation

9 Hotel Sierras Grandes 10 Residencial Cáceres

4 5 7 8

2 Laverap 11 Defunct railroad station

1 3

Residencial Micheletti Residencial Valle de Traslasierra Hotel Villa Plaza Residencial Champaqui Residencial Centro Residencial Sonia

Services

I Post and telegraph

R Air services

•

S Buses

•

The airport is at Alto de Castro.

Post office: Correo Argentino, Italia 299 Telephone: Telecom, Belgrano 340

The bus terminal is on the corner of Brizuela and España, near the former rail station.

M Services and facilities •

Laundromat: Laverap, Belgrano 455

Villa Dolores

329

CÓRDOBA C Accommodation in Villa Dolores Hotels

Ariane, Belgrano near RN 148 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Sierras Grandes, Avenida San Martín near España AEFGJLPUV * Villa Plaza, Sarmiento 33 AELPV • Belgrano, Belgrano 1722

*** **

Residenciales A A A A A A A A A A •

Cáceres, Brizuela 390 EFGLP Champaqui, Felipe Erdman 162 EFGLP Los Pinos, Piedra Pintada EFGLP Micheletti, A Castellano 53 near Mejico EFLP Mitre, Sarmiento 52 LP Nuevo Centro, San Luis 169 LP Paso del León, Primera Junta 35 Sonia, Brizuela 425 LP Urquiza, F. Erdman 150 Valle de Traslasierra, H Yrigoyen 317 EFGLP El Pancho, Sarmiento 52

Accommodation in Villa Las Rosas (Traslasierra) * * * *

Hostería Kali-ma, Tesandori Hostería Ko E-Mbota, Guasmara Hostería Las Dalias, Las Chacras Hostería Las Rejas, Belgrano

AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV

Accommodation in Las Tapias *

Accommodation in La Población * *

• • •

AELPV

Posta del Mistól, on road to lake horse riding, tennis Hostería Champaqui shared bath room cheaper Hostería La Reserva

AELPV AELPV

•

Service station: A.C.A., Belgrano 200

p Sightseeing •

423029

$F

2

@ @ @

420088 421691 423227

$H $H

1 1

@ @

420830 422358

@ @ @ @ @ @

420652 423506 422365 421945 422938 422358

$H $G $G $H

2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @

494354 494403 494559 494433

$G $F $E $G

2 2 3 2

@

420893

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@

482097

$G $G

2 2

s Excursions

Servicio Diferencial Panaholma, Sarmiento 173 @ 423900 Pampa de Achala, Belgrano 124 @ 420720 El Petizo, T.A. Chevallier, and Pampa de Achala run 6 services daily to and from Córdoba. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267 and Río Cuarto on page 305

U Motoring •

@

Museo Arqueológico “Ernesto Arrieta” (Ernesto Arrieta Archeological Museum)

330

Mina Clavero: The road from Villa Dolores to Mina Clavero heads east towards the Sierra de Comechingones in an almost straight line. The airdrome and aero club are 3 km out of town. The road starts climbing at Las Tapias. There are vineyards on both sides of the road. From Villa las Rosas (where Discoteca Los Cuartos is open during summer) the road turns north and runs parallel to the eastern side of the Sierra de Comechingones and enters hilly country. At Los Pozos there is a turn-off to the southern end of Lago La Viña dam. From Los Pozos the road heads eastwards for 5 km then veers north towards the highest part of the Cumbres de Achala . Just Villa Dolores

PAMPA PROVINCES before Los Hornillos the road enters the valley and descends to Hostería Alta Montaña. Outside Los Hornillos we pass Hostería Dos Arroyos and Hostería Monte Perico, open only during summer. Las Rabonas is a small rural community with a sprinkling of villas, and the Hostería El Talamar. At Huacle there is Motel La Quebrada. From here onwards the countryside consists of shrub lands alternating with cultivated lands, where there are many apiaries. The Cumbre de Achala on the right-hand side is now getting lower. At Nono there is a turn-off to Hotel del Alto, 3 km up on the right; 5 km from Nono is the Museo Rocsen (Rocsen Museum). After Nono the road follows the Río de los Sauces. The landscape here is not unlike that encountered in

•

•

Australia. The road has a good surface, and the flat valley is followed on the western side by a low mountain range. Just before arriving at Mina Clavero is Santa Iñez camping grounds, near the river. See also Mina Clavero on page 295 Cerro Champaqui: The best way to reach the top of this mountain is via San Javier and Capilla Constancia. The Municipalidad (Town Hall) in San Javier has names of guides. The walk goes through pine forests and walnut groves. From San Javier it is 8 km to the base of Cerro Champaqui. It is a four-hour walk to Constancia. It can be done in one day if you start early in San Javier Lago La Viña: 23 km. Swimming, pejerrey fishing, and boat hire at the artificial lake; see page 292

VILLA GENERAL BELGRANO

Villa General Belgrano Population: 4700 Postal code: 5194 @ area code: (03546) Altitude: 840 m Distance from Córdoba: 88 km south on RP 5

V

illa General Belgrano is situated in the pretty Río Calamuchita valley , surrounded to the west by the Sierra Grande and to the east by the Sierras Chicas. It is equidistant from two artificial lakes: Embalse del Río Tercero (19 km away) and Embalse Los Molinos (21 km away). There are good tourist facilities, and the proximity of the sierra has made this town a favorite vacation resort, particularly among Argentina’s German community. Further up the mountains are Swiss-style villages and hamlets such as La Cumbrecita and Villa Berna. There do not appear to be any regular buses between Villa General Belgrano and La Cumbrecita. Villa General Belgrano has strong German roots. It was virtually founded by the crew of the Graf Spee, who were interned here during

Villa General Belgrano

the Second World War and chose to remain afterwards. Every year in October the beer festival is held, complete with Bavarian brass bands, German folk dances, and Weisswurst. At this time scores of Argentine Germans congregate here. Villa General Belgrano is known locally as “Belgrano”. Also included here is Villa Berna, located 32 km west in mountainous area. Villa Berna is the starting point for excursions to Cerro

331

CÓRDOBA C Accommodation in Villa General Belgrano

During the October beer festival it is advisable to book in advance. Hotels ***

&

*** ** * * *

Bremen, RP 5 KM 741 near Cerro Negro ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 461258 Edelweiss, Avenida Comechingones near Ojo de Agua Fax 461387; English/German spoken ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Berna, Vélez Sársfield 86 AEFGJLPUV Baviera, El Quebracho 21 AELPSV Prater, Quebracho 4 AELPSV Tirol D’Andrea, San Martín near Ojo de Agua AELPSV

Hosterías ** ** ** * * *

Alfred, Uruguay near Julio A. Roca AEFGJLPSUV PosadaTantra, San Vicente Palloti 36 AEFGJLPSUV Rancho Grande, Julio A. Roca 377 AEFGJLPSUV El Mirador, Danubio 459 Barrio Mirador AELPSV Halcon, Cerro Negro 42 AELPSV Posada de Akasha, Los Manantiales 60 AELPSV

Residenciales

A Alpino, 25 de Mayo 9 AEFGLPS A Bodensee, Julio A. Roca 343 AEFGLP German spoken A Düsseldorf, Julio A Roca AEFGLP A Giovanni Luigi, Ojo de Agua 35 EFGLP A Im Blauen Tal, San Martín 20 EFGLP A Posada Nehuen, Ave. San Martín ADEFGLPS A Posada Novalis, Julio A. Roca 36 EFGLP A Posada Ojo de Agua, Ojo de Agua 91 EFGLP A Samay Huasi, Avenida Comechingones 563 AEFGLPS A Sierras Chicas, Avenida Julio A. Roca 127 LP

Cabañas

• Aldea Uruel, Ojo de Agua 131 AEFLP • Am Bach, Lago di Como ADEFGLP • Casas Blancas, Famatina 96 near Tronador LP E-mail: [email protected] • Del Sol, 17 de Agosto 345 AEFGLP • El Mirador de la Sierra, José M. Gómez 492 AEFGLP • La Merced, Vicente Palloti 50 ACDHLPR Fax 462451 • Lorelei, El Coco 521 AEFGHLPRSUV • Samay Suma, Moreno 46 AEFGHLPRUV • Yana Tacu, Ojo de Agua 3715 AHLNPRV

Cabañas on RP 5

• Alpendorf, RP 5 KM 743.5 AEFGLPS • Grazhauser, RP 5 KM 742 EFGLP • Pozo Verde, RP 5 Norte AHR E-mail: [email protected]

Complejos Turísticos ** *

Altos de Belgrano, RP 5 KM 744 Berghütten, Solís 94 E- mail: [email protected]

AEFGLP AEHKLPRV

332

@

461133

$D

2

@ @ @ @ @

461317 461097 461476 461167 461166

$D $F $F $F $D

2 2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @

461119 462142 461358 461443 461289 462440

$F $F $F $F $F $F

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@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

462078 461451 462017 462392 461412 461680 461237 462534 461350

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2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

@ @

462230 461533

$F $D

2 4

@ @ @

462546 461424 461263

$D $D $D

4 4 5

@ @ @ @

462451 462150 462236 462350

$F $D $D $D

2 4 4 4

@ @ @

462318 462294 461715

$D $E

4 2

@

462216

$D

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@

461294

$F

2

Villa General Belgrano

PAMPA PROVINCES Accommodation in Villa General Belgrano — continued *

Hostería La Trucha

•

October 11 celebrates the arrival of the first German settlers and coincides with the Beer Festival Fiesta de la Masa Vienesa (Festival of the Viennese Cookies) coincides with Holy Week. A grand Viennese ball is held as the crowning event Tyrolian carnival: December and January

B Tourist information •

Comisión Municipal de Turismo, San Martín 43 Plaza José Hernández @ 461215; e-mail: belgrano@tecomnet. com.ar; Web site: http://www.nt. com.ar/vgbelgrano.html; fax 461216. Open daily 07:30–12:30 and 16:00–20:00

D Camping

To La Cumbrecita

•

Ar

Municipal camping grounds, on the banks of the River El Sauce near the bus terminal • San José, 5 km from center on RP 5 Camping on the road to La Cumbrecita • Alta Vista, 14 km from town @ 425156 AFL also cabañas. Near the river; E-mail: [email protected] • Tannenwald, 14 km from town @ 462116. Fishing, horse-riding; open in tourist season

To Córdoba

VILLA GENERAL BELGRANO

ro yo La To m

5

a AVE. LAS MAGNOLIAS

T

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

SOLÍS MORENO

D P

V. SARSFIELD

I OJO DE AGUA

LOS MANANTIALES

Restaurants • Bierhaus, Avenida Julio A. Roca 71. International cuisine • Bierkeller, RP 5, at the town entrance. German cuisine • Chalet Suisse, Cerro Negro 86. International cuisine • Il Mago, Champaqui. Italian cuisine • La Taberna, Avenida Julio A. Roca. International cuisine • Lo de Paul, Avenida San Martín 34. Italian cuisine

PALOT TI

J.A . ROCA

To Athos Pampa

E Eating out

Villa General Belgrano

2

$G

Munich, Avenida San Martín 384. German cuisine • Norma, Avenida San Martín. Parrilla • Salzburg, Avenida Julio A. Roca 39. International cuisine • Szyller, Avenida Julio A. Roca 173. German cuisine • Tirol, Avenida San Martín 125. German cuisine Pizzerías • Don Miguel, Avenida Julio A. Roca • El Quimelén, Avenida San Martín 17 Cafeterías • Chocolate, Avenida San Martín 6 • Ciervo Rojo, Avenida Julio A. Roca 208. Bar • Der Bach, Avenida Ojo de Agua. Bar • Hamburg, Los Manantiales. Bowling, Bar • Ottilia, J. Strauss 10. Bar • Willy Bar, Avenida San Martín. Bar

A Festivals •

462070

•

Champaqui and down into the Traslasierra region. •

@

AELPV

Ar ro yo El Sa uc e

Accommodation in Villa Berna

N E

URUGUAY

17 DE AGOSTO SALTA

D

Correo Argentino

E

Central Telefónica

I

Secretaría de Turismo

T

Bus terminal

5 AVE. CHAMPAQUI

P

Accommodation Beer gardens

To Río Cuarto

333

CÓRDOBA n Entertainment • •

Gerlind, RP 5 near Paguaga. Disco Tip Top, Avenida San Martín. Disco

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Plaza San Martín Telephones: Telecom, Plaza San Martín

S Buses

The bus terminal is about five blocks from Plaza San Martín on Plaza Vélez Sarsfield. • COLTA SACIF @ 462507 • Sierras de Calamuchita, T.O.A., T.A. Chevallier, and Valle de Calamuchita run 17 services daily to and from Córdoba. See Buses from Córdoba, Mercado Sur terminal on page 270 and terminal on Entre Ríos on page 270

•

U Motoring •

Service station: A.C.A., RP 5 near Avenida Champaqui

a Sport • • • •

Flying: Aeroclub Swimming: There is a public swimming pool, and there are pools at most of the better hotels Tennis: Tennis courts at Hotel Edelweiss. Small fee for external users Club Náutico, on the road to Dique Los Molinos @ 461078

s Excursions Tour operators • Trails Personalised Journeys, Julio A. Roca @ 462087 fax Excursions • Dique Los Molinos: This 61 km trip makes a complete circuit of the lake

Villa Icho Cruz

and takes a full day by car. Follow RP 5 north. Shortly before arriving at Villa La Merced you will see the lake on your left. It covers 2500 ha (6178 acres) and was inaugurated in 1953. Water sports and pejerrey fishing are popular here. Continue to Villa Ciudad de America where you turn west, taking the road to Potrero de Garay, following the northern lake shore. At Potrero de Garay turn south. The road crosses Río Espinillo and Río del Medio, which flow from the Sierra Grande and are the main feeder streams of the lake. After Los Reartes it crosses Río de los Reartes, another major feeder of the lake. Continue until you return to Villa General Belgrano La Cumbrecita: 85 km, a full day by car. This trip takes you through an almost Alpine landscape: forests, clean streams, waterfalls. On leaving Villa General Belgrano take the direct road due north to Los Reartes. At Los Reartes turn west and follow the road past Villa Berna right up to La Cumbrecita, a transplanted Swiss Alpine village with a hotel. Return via Villa Berna but instead of continuing due east to Los Reartes take the turn-off to the south passing through Intiyaco and Atos Pampa. If you wish to go into higher Alpine country turn west 3 km south of Intiyaco: a trail leads to Villa Alpina with an Alpine hut. This is the starting point for a climb to Cerro Champaqui from the eastern side of the Sierra de Comechingones. Returning to Villa General Belgrano turn east at Atos Pampa until you reach the crossroads a t C a p i l l a V i e j a. S e e a l s o L a Cumbrecita on page 286

VILLA ICHO CRUZ

V

illa Icho Cruz is a little village located 20 km west of Villa Carlos Paz at the beginning of the scenic Traslasierra road over the Pampa de Achala to Mina Clavero. 334

Villa Icho Cruz

PAMPA PROVINCES San Antonio de Arredondo is located 12 km south of Villa Carlos Paz and 3 km west of Villa Icho Cruz at the road junction of RP 14, with the scenic road leading to Alta Gracia past the observatory near Bosque Alegre. Note that many hotels open only between end December and middle of February. There are regular local bus services to Villa Carlos Paz. Villa Icho Cruz and San Antonio are virtually suburbs of Villa

Carlos Paz. They have good facilities but are quieter than Villa Carlos Paz.

C Accommodation

Hotel Icho Cruz, Juan de Casaris AELPV @ 491039 * Hostería Icho Cruz, 4 km from town on Río San Antonio @ 495632 $F 2 Accommmodation in San Antonio de Arredondo ****Hotel La Posada del Genti, RP 14 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 495715 $B 2 * Hostería Los Pinos, RP 14 AELPV *

VILLA MARÍA

Villa María Population: 69 000 Postal code: 5900 @ area code: (0353) Altitude: 200 m Distance from Córdoba: 146 km south-east on RN 9

V

illa Maria is a prosperous agricultural center situated in the fertile humid pampa on the Río Tercero. It is an important town on the crossroads of the main Buenos Aires–Córdoba road and the most convenient highway route linking central Chile with Paraguay, Uruguay, and Brazil.

C Accommodation in Villa María Hotels **** ** ** *

ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ City, Buenos Aires 1184 AEFGJLPUV @ Presidente, San Martín 165 AEFGJLPUV @ Antares, Bulevar M.T. de Alvear 191 AELPV @ República, 9 de Julio 60

Residenciales

A Alcázar, Alvear near M Ocampo A Alvear, M T de Alvear 578 shared bath room cheaper A Continental, Corrientes 1150 shared bath room cheaper A Plaza, San Martín 141 A San Carlos, España 552 A San Martín, H Yrigoyen 127 A San Remo, M T de Alvear 593

Villa María

EFGLP EFGLP LP EFGLP EFGLP EFGLP EFGLP

335

4535500 4534322 4533670 4524444

$E $F $G $E

2 2 2 2

@

4525948

$G

2

@

4535139

$H

2

@ @

4533257 4523249

@ @

4534716 4521750

$H $H $G $G $G

2 2 2 2 2

CÓRDOBA • • • •

A Festivals •

Festival de Peñas Folkloricos (Folksong Festival): first week in January

B Tourist information •

Subdirección de Turismo, Sobral near Mendoza 3rd floor @ 4521058

U Motoring

•

I Post and telegraph • •

Coata, @ 4522511 General Urquiza @ 4531050 T.A. Chevallier @ 4534001 Villa María, Bulevar Sarmiento 1675 @ 4526626 Service station: Y.P.F., Alem 990

a Sport

Post office: Correo Argentino, Catamarca 1190 Telephone: Telecom, J Ingenieros 151

•

S Buses

Villa María Golf Club, RP 2 near Avenida Humberto Barberis @(03531) 423171/451622

s Excursions

The bus terminal is on M.T. de Alvear 681. There are 16 services daily to and from Córdoba; for services see Buses from Córdoba on page 267 and Río Cuarto on page 305. • ABLO @ 4533006

On an island in the Río Tercero there is a flora and fauna reserve.

VILLA RUMIPAL

Villa Rumipal Population: 2000 Postal code: 5864 @ area code: (03546) Altitude: 590 m Distance from Córdoba: 114 km south on RN 36

V

illa Rumipal is situated at the north end of the artificial lake Embalse del Río Tercero. It was founded by Gustav Riemann in 1930 at the time when the dam construction started. It has become now a tourist resort. •

The climate is good all year round. The indigenous inhabitants of this area were the Comechingones, but the only reminder of them is the name of the town: rumi means “stone” and pal means “star”, possibly indicating a meteorite fall they witnessed in the area.

B Tourist information

•

• •

Dirección de Turismo, Riemann 326 @ 498272

C Accommodation

Hotel Lago, Bulevar Illia near Riemann AELPV @ 498286 * Hostería Cayzani, Bulevar Illia 394 AELPV @ 498274 $G 2 * Hostería Colonia Sutna, Riemann near Wagner AELPV @ 498209 A Residencial Villa Rumipal, Almte. Brown LP Accommodation on RP5 ** Parque Hotel Villa Rumipal, KM 722 @ 498365 *

A Festivals •

Motonáutica Inter provincial: A motor-boat racing event

Festival Provincial del Lago (Provincial Lake Festival): January Magimundo: during the winter vacation Expo Rumipal: in September during Semana del Pueblo, an exhibition of crafts and archeology

336

Villa Rumipal

PAMPA PROVINCES D Camping

R Air services

E Eating out

•

There are several camping grounds along the lake shore.

There is an airstrip for local flights only.

S Buses

There are several restaurants, bars, and tearooms.

n Entertainment

Sierras de Calamuchita, T.O.A., and T.A. Chevallier run 11 services daily to and from Córdoba. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267

a Sport

Most of the discos and dancing spots are only open during the tourist season, December–February.

•

I Post and telegraph

There is a post office and public telephones.

•

Fishing: Good places to fish for the “king of fish”, the pejerrey, are the banks near the river mouths of Río Santa Rosa and Río Quillinzo, and from boats Water sports: Boat hire, diving, swimming, water-skiing, sailing

VILLA TULUMBA

Villa Tulumba Postal code: 5203 @ area code: (03521) Altitude: 690 m Distance from Córdoba: 132 km north on RP 60 then RP 16

V

illa Tulumba is located in the northern part of the province. It still has the air of a small Spanish colonial town. In the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Rosario is an altar piece which goes back to the Jesuits in 1706 but is most likely the work of an indigenous craftsman.

C Accommodation *

and also to Déan Funes and San José de la Dormida. See Buses from Córdoba on 267

Hotel Las Vegas AELPV $I 1. The bus stops in front of the hotel

S Buses •

Empresa Ciudad de Córdoba runs 1 service daily to and from Córdoba

YACANTO DE CALAMUCHITA

Yacanto de Calamuchita Postal code: 5197 Distance from Santa Rosa de Calamuchita: 31 km west

Y

acanto de Calamuchita is situated in the Sierra de Comechingones at the eastern approach to Cerro Champaqui, the highest mountain in the Sierra de Comechingones. The region is forested and has many waterfalls. There is trout fishing in the Río Yacanto, a tributary of the Río

Villa Tulumba

Durazno, and good mountain walks. 337

CÓRDOBA C Accommodation *

•

bounding the property. Reservations: Yacanto @ (03546) 462583/462600

Hostería Champaqui AELPV @ (03546) 485027 $H 2 Estancia La Florida, an agricultural farm in green pastures, offers accommodation and fishing in rivers

S Buses

Yacanto has one service daily to and from Córdoba. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267.

YACANTO DE SAN JAVIER

Yacanto de San Javier Postal code: 5875 @ area code: (03544) Altitude: 1100 m Distance from Villa Dolores: 20 km east

Y

acanto de San Javier is located on the western side of the Sierra de Comechingones — not to be confused with Yacanto de Calamuchita, which is on the eastern side of the Sierra de Comechingones. The town’s springs are said to contain curative waters. It is also the starting point for climbing Cerro Champaqui.

C Accommodation

a Sport

•

Hotel Yacanto AEFGJLPUV @ 482002 (San Javier) $D 2 Accommodation in San Javier San Javier is 2 km north of Yacanto. * Hostería Casa Pueblo AELPV @ 482038 $F 2 **

Golf Club Yacanto in Hotel Yacanto @ 421581; 18 holes

s Excursions

•

Anselmo Torres @ 488081; mountaineering and walks

S Buses

Empresa 20 de Junio runs daily services to and from Córdoba.

Stopovers

I

STOPOVERS

n this section I have listed those towns which are not on the normal tourist trail but have some facilities. and gas station. Regular daily buses run to Río Cuarto and Venado Tuerto in Santa Fe Province. Accommodation A Hospedaje Arias, Avenida Rivadavia 1102 AEFHLPU @ 440161 $H 2 A Hospedaje Mayo, San Martín 1022 HLP $H 2

Arias Nearest town described: Venado Tuerto in Santa Fe Province, 36 km east on RN 9 (page ) Arias is located in the south-eastern part of the province, 2 km off the main highway; to Río Cuarto is 200 km west. This is flat pampa. Population is about 5000; altitude 122 m; postal code 2624; @ area code (03462); accommodation, restaurants 338

Stopovers

PAMPA PROVINCES A Hospedaje Santa Teresa, Italia 1031 EHLP @ 440322 $G 2 Arroyito Nearest town described: San Francisco 80 km east on RN 19 (page 307) Regular daily buses run to Córdoba and San Francisco. Postal code 2434; @ area code (03576). Accommodation ** Hotel Hostal del Arroyito, RN 19 KM 220 AEFGJLPUV @ 421023 $F 2 ** Hotel Xanaes, Loredo 622 AEFGJLPUV @ 421268 $G 2 * Hotel Ona, Ave. F. Paganini 1995 near Loredo y Batalla AELPV @ 421695/7 $G 2 Ballesteros Nearest town described: Villa María 55 km west on RN 9 (page 335) Population 2000; altitude 162 m; gas station. Accommodation • Residencial Titi, Argentino near Belgrano AEFGHLPV @ (0353) 4930372 $G 2 Berrotarán Nearest town described: Río Cuarto 80 km south on RN 36 (page 303) Located in the wide Valle de la Cruz with views of the chain of the Sierra de Comechingones. Altitude is 690 m; population approximately 3000; postal code 5817; accommodation, restaurants, and gas station. Accommodation on RN 36 * Hotel Co-Ra-Se, H Yrigoyen 2 near San Martín AELPV @ (03586) 4940107 $H 2 • Hospedaje Petizo Azul, Berrotarán 119 $H 2

Accommodation on RN 8 Hotel Córdoba, 25 de Mayo 226 AELPV @ 420965 $G 2 * Hostería Nuevo Mayo, Maipú 798 AELPV @ 420886 $H 2 Colonia Caroya Nearest town described: Córdoba 50 km south on RN 9 (page 257) Accommodation * Hotel del Sol, San Martín 1894 AELPV @ (03525) 467890 $G 2 La Francia Nearest town described: San Francisco 60 km east on RN 19 (page 307) Accommodation • Residencial Angius, Independencia 138 @ (03564)471235 Las Varillas Nearest town described: San Francisco 78 km north on RP 1 (page 307) Accommodation • Hotel Mayo, Avellaneda 29 @ (03533) 420528 Leones Nearest town described: Marcos Juárez 19 km east on RN 9 (page 294) Altitude is 120 m; gas station. Accommodation * Hotel Ideal, Amadeo Bertini near Colón AELPV @ (03472) 448553 $H 2 • Hotel Parque, Ave. Igoillo 1151 @ (03472)481000 Oliva Nearest town described: Córdoba 93 km north-west on RN 9 (page 257) Oliva is halfway to Villa María in the wet pampa. Altitude is 270 m; accommodation, gas station. Accommodation ** Hotel El Parador de Tita, RN 9 KM 609 AEFGJLPUV @ (03532) 420274 $G 2 ** Motel La Carreta, R.S. Peña 996 AEFGJLPRUV @ (03532) 420668 $G 2 A Residencial El Panamericano, L N Alem 642 LP $G 2 *

Canals Nearest town described: La Carlota 48 km east on RN 8 (page 282) The actual township is 4 km south of the main highway in flat pampa. On the highway is an A.C.A service station. Population is approximately 5000; altitude 148 m; postal code 2650; @ code (03463); accommodation, restaurants and gas station; regular daily buses to Río Cuarto.

Stopovers

Oncativo Nearest town described: Córdoba 78 km north-west on RN 9 (page 257) Altitude is 285 m; accommodation, gas station. 339

CÓRDOBA A Residencial Ruta 9, Juan B Alberdi near T Garzón LP @ (03572) 471278/470092

Accommodation * Hostería Permanelli, Belgrano 783 AELPV $H 2 A Hotel La Posta, San Martín 1182 LP @ (03572) 466095 $F2 Pilar Nearest town described: Córdoba 44 km north-west on RN 9 (page 257) Pilar is in the pampa on the Río Segundo.

Río Segundo Nearest town described: Córdoba 39 km north-west on RN 9 (page 257) Altitude 340 m; accommodation, gas station. Accommodation • Hospedaje Familiar, RN 9 near Peru @ (03572) 422165

Accommodation A Hotel Puente, Juan B Alberdi 1134 LP @ (03572) 470729 $G 2 A Residencial La Taberna de Adan, Juan B Alberdi LP @ (03572) 470207 $H 2

340

Stopovers

LA PAMPA PROVINCES

Plate 5 343 343 344 344 346 347 348 349 349 350 351 351 352 354 355 358 359 360

L La PAMPA A Pampa PAMPA

Map of La Pampa Province Bernardo Larroudé BCS Eduardo Castex CS General Acha CDEJKSUWqfgs Map General Pico ACESJMUVWfgpsu Map Guatraché BCSuv Intendente Alvear ACS Macachín CS Parque Nacional Lihué Calel CISUWbtv Realicó SC Santa Isabel CSv Santa Rosa BCDEnJKLMRSTUVWXYaipq Map of city center rsv Map of metropolitan Santa Rosa 25 De Mayo CESst Victorica CSUbpv Stopovers CES

he name of this province, La Pampa, is derived from a Quechua word meaning “flat country”. However, the landscape varies from flat steppe to undulating plains and low mountains. La Pampa is located in the center of Argentina, and shares borders with Neuquén and Mendoza in the west, Córdoba and San Luis in the north, Buenos Aires in the east, and Río Negro to the south, with the Río Negro forming the border. The highest mountains in the province are in the extreme north-west on the border with Mendoza Province; the highest is Cerro Negro at 1188 m.

T

341

La Pampa

PAMPA PROVINCES The main river is the Río Negro in the south. In the extreme west there are many salt flats. The construction of large dams in the upper reaches and tributaries of the Río Salado in the provinces of Mendoza and San Luis has deprived La Pampa province of much needed water in the dry regions in the west. The rain decreases from east to west, and in most parts of the province is insufficient for wheat crops. The highest rainfall is in the north-east, around 750 mm a year. Because of the shortage of precipitation, most cities depend on bore water, which is usually of good quality. The temperature oscillates between 40°C (105°F) in summer and –8°C (24°F) in winter. Irregular rainfall and long periods of dry spells characterize this province, and because of these harsh living conditions the population density is low: there are few large cities, and even the capital Santa Rosa has only about 65 000 inhabitants. Winters usually constitute the dry months, and can last until October. The wet season starts at the end of September and lasts until December. There is another short wet period towards the end of February. Hot strong winds are common and, according to the season, blow from the north and north-east. The pampero which comes up from the south brings cold weather. Sometimes the sudestacada blows from the south-east, bringing fogs and humidity. The dry conditions have shaped the landscape: algarrobo, prickly caldén, and chañar trees dominate. La Pampa was formerly the home of semi-nomadic Tehuelche Indians who were formidable

La Pampa

hunters. Around 1800, Araucanian peoples invaded the territory. Until the “pacification campaign” waged by the Argentines against the Araucanian people in 1879, Indian raiders made European settlement difficult. This changed after the Argentine army defeated the Indians and their famous leaders Pincen, Yanquetruz, Catriel Namuncura, and Calfucura. Between 1880 and 1890 most of the big estancias were established. It was only in 1951 that La Pampa was elevated to the status of province, and Santa Rosa, some 600 km south-west of Buenos Aires, established as its capital. The largest towns are Santa Rosa (population 65 000), General Pico (population 32 000), Realicó (population 13 000), and General Acha (population 8000). Although La Pampa is mostly a “transit” province for the tourist stream going south to Río Negro and Neuquén, it offers open, sparsely populated country for those seeking peace and quiet. You can travel for hours on excellent roads without seeing evidence of people on the landscape, especially in the western part. The economic heartland of the province is in the north-eastern sector which has adequate rainfall. The wide open spaces have a charm of their own. Some of the nature reserves are stocked with stags. The best known nature reserves are Parque Provincial Luro and Parque Nacional Lihué Calel, both of which have prehistoric rock paintings.

Hunting La Pampa is an outdoor province and the foremost hunting province in Argentina. The deer hunting season is from March to May, and the number is strictly regulated. The 342

LA PAMPA puma hunting season runs from January until July: the limit is two pumas per hunter per season. Export of trophies is also strictly regulated. Export permits for puma trophies have to be obtained from the

Dirección de Fauna y Flora Silvestre de La Nación, San Martín 459, Capital Federal @ 011-4394-1079.

BERNARDO LARROUDÉ

Bernardo Larroudé Population: 1500 Postal code: 6220 @ area code: (02302) Distance from General Pico: 79 km north on RN 188

B

ernardo Larroudé is located in the extreme north-eastern corner of the province where the provinces of Córdoba, Buenos Aires, and La Pampa meet, some 77 km north of General Pico. Its main manufacturing industry is linked to dairying.

C Accommodation

Of interest are the strongly mineralized thermal waters which emerge at 30°C (86°F); they are said to have curative properties such as stress relief and arthritis. The thermal center is located in a large park in a forested area; it has thermal swimming pools, change rooms, facilities for hydro massage and an attendant doctor.

*

•

E Eating out

•

Restaurant Parque Termal, M. Montiel

S Buses

•

B Tourist information •

Hotel Pampa, Roberto Pérez 102 near España AELPV @ 492122 Hospedaje Y.P.F., RN 188 at the entrance to town

•

Municipalidad @ 49220

Empresa 9 de Julio runs 2 services daily to and from General Pico Empresa La Estrella runs 3 services daily to and from Realicó

EDUARDO CASTEX

Eduardo Castex Population: 8500 Postal code: 6380 @ area code: (02334) Distance: Santa Rosa 81 km south on RN 35

E

duardo Castex is located halfway between Realicó and Santa Rosa about 3 km west of RN 35. It is the center of a rich agricultural area. Plaza San

343

Eduardo Castex

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Eduardo Castex *** *** *

• • • •

Hotel San Cristóbal, RN 35 KM 406 near access into town ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 453111 Hotel Cristal, RN 35 KM 405 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 452131 fax Hostería Hotel Sol de La Ciudad, Avenida Independencia 2008 AELPV @ 452957 Hospedaje La Terminal, Alem 1189 Hospedaje Ilmar, Zeballos 705 Hospedaje Shell, RN 5 near access into town Residencial San Nicolás, L.N. Alem 1189 @ 452524

Martín with its huge cuckoo clock is the center of town. It can be reached by frequent buses from Santa Rosa.

GENERAL ACHA

General Acha Population: 12 000 Postal code: 8200 @ area code: (02952) Distance from Santa Rosa: 103 km south on RN 35 then RN 152

G

eneral Acha is located in a depression called Valle de Utracán. It was founded as capital of the province in 1882 by Manuel J Campos, and is laid out in chess-board fashion, with the streets running north–south and east–west. The center of the town is Plaza General Belgrano.

D Camping

T

152

Restaurants • Club Social, Balcarce near M. de Hoz • El Parque, Campos 130. Parrilla

901

801

701

MORENO

BALCARCE

ESPAÑA

SEGOVIA 301

ESTACIÓN F.C. GENERAL ROCA

2

MARTÍNEZ DE HOZ 3

4

GARIBALDI

D AVELLANEDA

Hospedaje Gabel Hospedaje El Gringo

Plaza General Belgrano PADRE BUODO

A

4 Eating out

Restaurant Garibaldi Restaurant La Cita

C

CONESA

CHARIONE

General Acha

401

GENERAL SAN MARTÍN

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Post Office & Telex Bus terminal

3 Accommodation

3 4

501

1

Key to map

1 2

601

RODRÍGUEZ PEÑA

LAVALLE

A C D T

V. RODRÍGUEZ

1101 1001 DORREGO

M.J. CAMPOS

FRAGA

GARRIDO

GENERAL ROCA

E Eating out

BRANDSEN

344

GENERAL ACHA

To Bahía Blanca and Santa Rosa

152

N

Parque Manuel J. Campo GENERAL ALVEAR

•

To Neuquén

Parque Manuel J Campos, RN 152 KM 25 at the access into town; forested area, restaurant, open all year Laguna de Utracán, Utracán, 14 km north of General Acha on RP 9; forested; open in tourist season only

FARIAS

•

LA PAMPA C Accommodation in General Acha Hosterías *

Anahi Ruca, Balcarce 897

F

@

432214

@ @

436459 432568

@

423607

@ @

432458 432515

Hospedajes • • • •

Don Antonio, Castels El Gringo, Martínez de Hoz 373 Gabel, Dorrego 432 La Candela, Balcarce 632

Accommodation outside General Acha Hotel ECOP 1o, RN 152 KM 29 near España E * Motel Los Molles, RN 152 KM 26.5 F • Hotel Novo Hotel, RN 152 KM 29 • Hospedaje Poyen Ruca, RN 152 KM 28

**

• Garibaldi, Garibaldi 881 • La Cita, Garibaldi 745 Cafeterías • La Plaza, Don Bosco 515. Dancing • Swat, General Campos near Martínez de Hoz. Dancing Eating out on RN 152 • Restaurant El Parador KM 28.5 • Restaurant El Jabalí, KM 28

•

I Post and telegraph •

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Avellaneda 795

S Buses

The bus terminal is on RN 152, opposite Parque Manuel J Campos. T A Chevallier, TUP, El Valle, Tirsa, and El Zorzal run buses to Buenos Aires, Neuquén, Córdoba, and Bariloche. • Bus del Sur, V. Rodríguez 655 @ 432232 • El Aguilucho Mahuida via ° Limay Chacharramendi

•

U Motoring •

Service station: Shell, RN 152 E

s Excursions •

Balneario Utracán: 15 km north on RP 9. It is a typical pampa region with a 70 ha (173 acre) highly saline lake, on which it is possible to water ski

345

and hire boats. The area is situated in groves of caldén trees Quehué: 39 km north on RP 9. One of the oldest settlement of the province, Quehué was a saw-milling town around the turn of the century— consequently not many of the original caldén trees remain. Now the town is the starting point for hunting expeditions in the area for wild boar and stags Padre Angel Buodo: Located at the intersection of RN 152 and RN 35, some 25 km east. Padre Buodo was a Salesian priest who worked as a missionary here. The museum is open daily 10:00–18:00 Pulpería de Chacharramendi. This pulpería is a rehabilitated “gaucho bar” located some 126 km west of General Acha on RN 143. It is also known as El Viejo Almacén or “old store”. With the advance of Western civilization in the 1880s stores sprang up all over the pampa to cater for the needs of the new settlers and also serve as meeting places and “watering holes” to help them forget the harsh conditions of the frontier life. Most of them are gone now, but this one has been saved from oblivion, refurbished without destroying the character, allowing the modern-day traveler a glimpse of those early days.

General Acha

PAMPA PROVINCES

GENERAL PICO

General Pico Population: 42 500 Postal code: 6360 @ area code: (02302) Altitude: 143 m Distance from Santa Rosa: 131 km north-east on RP 35 then RP 102

G

eneral Pico is located in the north-eastern part of the province, center of an agricultural area. It is an important crossroads; RP 1 and RP 101 intersect here. The town was founded in 1905 by Eduardo de Chapeaurouge.

E Eating out

The climate is moderate and dry, with temperatures of 45°C (113°F) in summer and –10°C (14°F) in winter. Most of the rain falls between October and April. Note that streets are designated by both numbers and names. The hub of town is bounded by Avenida San Martín, General B. Mitre, L.N. Alem, and Calle 19.

Restaurants • Cordón Bleu, Calle 17–1050. Seafood • El Jupiter, Calle 22–733 • Galería, Calle 17–954. Seafood • La Parrilla, Calle 7–540 • La Rueda, Avenida San Martín 175. Parrilla • La Ruta, RN 101 near 26 • Rincón de Ursula, near Aero club

C Accommodation in General Pico ** *

Hotel Pico, Calle 17–1013 Fax 422735 Hotel Labarraz, Calle 8–1134

ADEFGKMPY AEFGHLP$TV

@ @

$F

2

433100/434422 $F 421894

2

421364 433250

Hosterías Cauí, Calle 9–192 Oeste near Calle 104 Fax 431837 ACDEFGHJKLPR$TUVY @ • Scansetti (Malo’s), Calle 24–630 GLPTVY @

***

Hospedajes

• Antonella, Calle 18–665 • Centenario, Calle 22–776

Accommodation on RP 101 **

Motel Brisa, near Calle 9

Key to map C D E P $ T

Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica Argentina A.C.A. Banco de la Nación Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 2 3 7

Hostería Malo’s Hospedaje Centenario Hotel Pico

General Pico

PV PV

@ @

421204 422760

ADEFGHJLP$TUVY

@

422712 fax 424383

13 Hospedaje Antonella 16 Hotel Labarraz 17 Hostería Cauí

5 Entertainment

4 Eating out

15 Museo Regional Maracó

6 8 9 10 11 12

Cafetería Cordón Bleu Cafetería Bar Suizo Cafetería Antü Piñen Cafetería O’Lar Cafetería Quo Vadis Cafetería Galería

346

5

Cinema

9 Sights

0 Services

1 Localiza 4 Laverap 14 Ferrocarril D.F. Sarmiento

LA PAMPA

F. AMEGHINO

28

ECHEVERRÍA

26

M. DE IRIGOYEN

24

GRAL . B. MITRE

22

9 DE JULIO

20

GRAL . M. BELGRANO

18

GRAL . J. M. GÜEMES

17

15

25 DE MAYO

12 DE OCTUBRE

20 DE SEPTIEMBRE

11

9

7

13

ESPAÑA

L .N. ALEM

J.B. JUSTO

30

To General Alvear

GENERAL PICO

1

2

3

$

D

6 4

7

5

P

9 8

Plaza San Martín

10 11

19 E. DE CHAPEAUROUGE

1 T

12

13 E

14

Plaza España

AVE. SAN MARTÍN C

16

ITALIA

14

GRAL . J.A . ROCA

N

15 12

B. RIVADAVIA

10

F. MAGGIOROT TI

L . DE LA TORRE

CALLE 102

Plaza Plaza General General Pic o Pic o

A . ETCHETO

2

27

H. YRIGOYEN

J.M. ESTRADA

4

25

1 DE MAYO

GRAL . J.J. DE URQUIZA

6

23

M. MORENO

21

8

D.F. SARMIENTO

16

FRATERNIDAD

To Córdoba

1

102

17 CALLE 104

To Santa Rosa

347

General Pico

PAMPA PROVINCES S Buses from General Pico

The bus terminal is on General Mitre block 500 near 20 de Setiembre. • Autotransporte General Pico ° Santa Isabel via Eduardo Castex, Victorica, and Telén; 3 weekly • Empresa Barón ° Colonia Barón • Empresa 9 de Julio ° Bernardo Larroudé via Intendente Alvear; 2 daily ° Caleufú via Trenel and Arata ° Rancul via Ojeda, Realicó, and Quetrequén • Empresa Dumas ° Santa Rosa ($5.50; 2 hrs); 5 daily • T.A. Chevallier ° Buenos Aires ($33.40; 8 hrs) via Santa Rosa

M Services and facilities

Cafeterías • Antü Piñen, Calle 15–921 • Bar Suizo, Calle 15–928 • O’Lar, Calle 20–783 • Quo Vadis, Calle 17–978

•

U Motoring

• •

n Entertainment •

Cinema, Belgrano block 601 near 20 de Octubre

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, 9 de Julio near 20 de Septiembre Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, San Martín block 601 near 20 de Setiembre

•

L Financial •

A.C.A., España near General Belgrano Car rental: Localiza, Calle 15–1532

p Sightseeing

•

I Post and telegraph •

Laundromat: Laverap, General Belgrano (formerly Calle 20) 486

Parque Recreativo Benicio Delfín Pérez. Located south-east of the city; it incorporates Laguna La Arocena of 150 ha (370 acre). Camping spot and hire of boats and water skis Museo Regional Maracó, Calle 17–560

s Excursions

Banco de la Nación, 25 de Mayo near 9 de Julio

•

Intendente Alvear: 51 km north. See page 349

GUATRACHÉ

Guatraché Postal code: 6311 @ area code: (02953) Distance from Santa Rosa: 181 km north-east on RN 35 and RP 24 (a gravel road)

T

his agricultural town is located close to the border of Buenos Aires province. Of interest is Laguna Guatraché 12 km south of town, with its thermal waters and a flamingo colony. The thermal water at 32° C (90° F) contains chloride, sulphates, calcium, and magnesium, and its therapeutic properties are said to help against arthritis and varicose ulcers. Attached is a hotel with restaurant and café.

Guatraché

348

LA PAMPA C Accommodation

The area around the laguna has been declared a natural protection zone. There is a tourist park here with camping facilities. Estancia Minezota, a Mennonite settlement, is located 30 km west.

• •

Hospedaje El Puba, Zeballos 563 Hospedaje La Chacra, Roca 16 near Avellaneda @ 492023 At Alpachiri 42 km north is the small Hospedaje Español.

S Buses

•

B Tourist information •

Termas de Guatraché: @ 492005 fax

Empresa El Zorzal runs five services weekly from Santa Rosa via Macachín.

INTENDENTE ALVEAR

Intendente Alvear Population: 6000 Postal code: 6221 @ area code: (02303) Distance from General Pico: 51 km south on RP 1

L

ocated in the extreme north-east corner of the province near Buenos Aires province, this is a rich farming area.

C Accommodation

Polo tournaments are held at the Club de Polo Chapaleufú. In January a very lively gaucho festival is celebrated. In Avenida San Martín near Avellaneda is the ciprés histórico marking the spot where a Franciscan chapel stood long before the foundation of the town.

**

•

Hostería Pepa, 25 de Mayo 1141 AEFGJLPUV @ 481005 Hospedaje Alsina, Access to Fortín Alsina

S Buses

La Estrella runs two services daily from General Pico and two services weekly from Santa Rosa.

MACACHÍN

Macachín Population: 4000 Postal code: 6307 @ area code: (02953) Distance: Santa Rosa 112 km north via RN 35 and RP 18

O

f interest are the Salinas Grandes de Hidalgo, 13 km south of Macachín, which were exploited for salt during colonial times— indeed a section of the old Spanish colonial road from Buenos Aires to Chile passed through here. During the nineteenth century it was the domain of indigenous tribes, the

most famous of which was that of Cacique Calfacura.

349

Macachín

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Macachín

Hotel Euzko Alkartasuna, Parodi 340 AEFGHJPRUVY Fax 452156 * Hostería Don Quijote, Intersection RP 1 and RP 18 AELPV • Hospedaje Pérez, Parodi 261

**

@

452045

@

452554

Accommodation in Doblas

• Hospedaje Ga–Lo, España 457

Thirty-one kilometers before arriving in Macachín is the turnoff to the village of Doblas with a small hotel and restaurant. Doblas is the

starting point for hunting expeditions.

PARQUE NACIONAL LIHUÉ CALEL

Parque Nacional Lihué Calel Distance from Santa Rosa: 226 km south-west on RN 35 then RN 152

T

his national park of approximately 10 000 ha (24 700 acre) is located in the southern part of the province. It was created in 1977 to preserve the unusual flora encountered in this area. The backdrop to the park is the low Sierra de Lihué Calel , forming a 15 km horseshoe. During the past century this was the last hide-out of the Indian tribes who, under Chief Namuncura, invaded La Pampa from Chile. The caves and walls in particular in the Valle de Las Pinturas abound with rock paintings, indicating an unbroken occupation of the area from prehistoric times. The mountain ranges reach only 600 m. The Valle de Los Angelitos in the Sierra de La Vida was the burial ground of ancient tribes. In some areas there are still some “Piedras Movedizas”, huge boulders which are delicately balanced on the rocks. Inside the park are the ruins of the Estancia Santa Mónica. The microclimate of the area allows species of widely

Parque Nacional Lihué Calel

different habitats to coexist in a very small area.

C Accommodation *

Hospedaje A.C.A., RN 152 KM 146 AELPV @ (02952) 43101 near national park entrance; not always open but bus drivers to Neuquén will know

I Post and telegraph

There is a post office at the A.C.A. service station.

S Buses

•

Empresa T.A. Chevallier runs two services daily to Neuquén (5 hrs) and Santa Rosa (3 hrs)

U Motoring

•

350

Service station: A.C.A.

LA PAMPA

REALICÓ

Realicó Population: 5500 Postal code: 6200 @ area code: (02331) Distance from Santa Rosa: 178 km north on RN 35

R

ealicó is the northernmost town in Province La Pampa directly on the border of Province Córdoba. It is an important crossroads for north–south and east–west traffic: RN 35 and RN 188 intersect here.

C Accommodation *** **

• •

S Buses

•

Motel Yan-Calla, Acceso Dr. Ricardo Balbín ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 462009 Hostería Realicó, RN 188 KM 478 access into town AEFGJLPUV @ 462887 Hospedaje Juan José, Italia 1539 @ 462052 Hospedaje San Martín, San Martín 1743

• •

TUS/TUP runs services between Córdoba and Santa Rosa Jocolí runs services between San Luis and Santa Rosa La Unión runs bus services between General Pico and Rancul.

SANTA ISABEL

Santa Isabel @ area code: (02338) Distance from Santa Rosa: 288 km west on RP 10 and RN 5

S

anta Isabel is located in the extreme north-western corner of the province, reached on RP 10, a dirt road.

Santa Isabel and Algarrobo del Águila are located in an area where the Río Atuel coming from Mendoza Province and the Río Salado coming from San Luis Province lose their strength and dissolve into or form huge swamps. Another 113 km further west beyond Algarrobo del Águila starting at Estancia La Humada, is a mountainous zone with the highest peaks in La Pampa Province. Although a dry area for most of the year, there are perennial springs (Agua de Torres and Agua Escondida) in the mountains but

hikers should seek information at the estancia. Note: This is puma country.

C Accommodation

• •

Hospedaje A.C.A., RN 143 KM 344 @ 493102 La Marianita. This estancia has opened its doors to tourists

S Buses

Empresa Auto Transporte General Pico runs three services weekly from Santa Rosa to Algarrobo del Águila; Empresa Las Tres Marías runs one service weekly from Victorica to Santa Isabel and Algarrobo del Águila; if required the buses continue to Estancia La Humada.

351

Santa Isabel

PAMPA PROVINCES

SANTA ROSA

Santa Rosa Population: 77 000 Postal code: 6300 @ area code: (02954) Altitude: 177 m Distances From Bahía Blanca: 327 km north-west on RN 35 • From Buenos Aires: 607 km south-east on RN 5 •

S

anta Rosa, the capital of La Pampa, is located in the central eastern part of the province, near Laguna Don Tomás. It was founded by Tomás Mason in 1892. The first settlement was Estancia La Malvina, some 3 km from the town center. In 1904 Santa Rosa became capital of • the then Territorio Nacional La & • Pampa to replace the town of Gen• eral Acha. Although it progressed slowly at first, Santa Rosa is now a & • modern city. The center of town is • • Avenida San Martín between Avenida Luro (with the magnificent • Casa de Gobierno) and the corner of Avenida Avellaneda and Mitre.It • has good tourist facilities, and buses • run frequently to Buenos Aires and Neuquén. • Also included are the tourist facilities and sights of Toay, 10 km • west.

Caníbal, Pellegrini 132 Chino Santa Rosa, Avenida Roca 241. Chinese cuisine Chino Tai Feng, Pellegrini 43. Chinese cuisine Club Español, H. Lagos 237 Don Francisco, Lagos 477. Parrilla El Nuevo Molino, Avenida Spinetto 1163 El Pato, Avenida Luro 502 and L de La Torre. Parrilla El Rancho de Pampa Cuatro, Corrientes 69. Parrilla Incontro, Avenida San Martín 695. Parrilla La Candela, Avenida Luro 290. Parrilla La Colonia, Avenida Spinetto 1099. Parrilla • La Taberna de José, Avenida Luro B Tourist information block 200 near H Yrigoyen • Dirección Provincial de Turismo, • La Terminal, Luro near Corrientes. Avenida Luro near San Martín oppo24-hour service site bus terminal @ 425060; Mon–Fri • Los Pinos, Avenida Spinetto 815 07:00–20:00, Sat-Sun 09:00–12:00 • Pampa, Catamarca 15 • Centro de Información Turística Mu- & • San Martín, Pellegrini 115. Parrilla nicipal, Avenida Luro 336 • Señor Quintana, Urquiza 336. Parrilla • Dirección de Fauna, Centro Cívico, Pizzerías 3rd floor @ 433010 ext. 306/328 • Mar-Jor, España 87 & • Pizza Pizuela, Gil 520 D Camping • Municipal Laguna Don Tomás, Cafeterías Avenida Roca 1000 AFRT; wooded • Cádiz, 9 de Julio 30. Dancing • El Café de Sonia, Quintana 77 E Eating out • El Sol, H Yrigoyen 50. Dancing • Gotán, J.B. Justo 278 Restaurants • La Barra, 9 de Julio 114 • Big Bang, Avenida Spinetto 960 • Borsalino, Avenida Luro 444

Santa Rosa

352

LA PAMPA C Accommodation in Santa Rosa Hotels **** * * * *

Hotel Calfacurá, San Martín 695 ACDEFGHLMNPR$STUVY Fax 433303 @ Caldén, Avenida Presidente Illia near Tello ACDEHLP$STVY @ Residencial Caldén, Avenida Spinetto 820 ADEHLPTVY @ San Martín, Avenida Alsina 101 opposite rail station AEFHLP$TVY @ Tredy, Spinetto 35 AFP @

Hosterías

&

* * * *

Casablanca, Avenida Spinetto 302 La Estancia, Paul Harris 780 Río Atuel, Avenida Luro 356 Santa Rosa, H Yrigoyen 696

ACDEHLPSTVY AELPV AEHLP$TVY AEHLPV

Hospedajes

B Arias, Dante Aleghieri 1097 EHLPRVY B San Carlos, Ameghino 602 PTVY B Residencial Mitre, Emilio Mitre 76 near bus terminal ELP$V

Motels **

Mini Bungalows, E Mitre 975

AEFGJLPUV

423608

$D

2

427557 fax

$G

2

425995 fax 436663 422549 fax 422098

$G $H

2 2

@ @ @ @

436388 430537 422597 423868

$G $H

2 2

$H

2

@ @

422874 425736

$H

2

@

425432

@

428961

$G

2

Accommodation on Circunvalación Santiago Marzo Avenida de Circunvalación Santiago Marzo starts on Laguna Don Tomás and becomes a major by-pass on the eastern side of town. Most hotels shown below are located on this segment. *** *

Hotel Lihuel Calel, Santiago Marzo 2535 @ Fax 427236 ACDEFGHJKLMPR$TUVY Hostería Hotel La Estancia, Santiago Marzo Este 1148 AEFHLMP$TV @

Accommodation on RN 35 Motels *** *

Caldén, KM 330 near airport Fax 432346 Rucalén, Avenida Luro 2500

**

Hotel La Campiña, KM 604 Motel A.C.A., KM 606

424311 429333

@ @

456800 424067

@

492236

ADEFGHJPTUVY

Accommodation in Toay

• Hospedaje Florida, Sarmiento

$F

2

$F

2

$G

2

430537

ACDEFGHJKLMPRTUVY @ AEHLPV @

Accommodation on RN 5 ****

423001

Estancias Turísticas

• Villaverde, RN 35 10 km north of Santa Rosa on RN 35. This is a large estancia which has been turned into a tourist complex; all meals included @ 438764 $E 1

• & • •

La Capital, Avellaneda near H & • Yrigoyen • La Recova, Avellaneda block 200 • (corner of H Lagos) Las Viñas, González 754. Dancing

353

Nairobi Pub, 9 de Julio block 0 near Avellaneda Paloko’s, Gil 31. Bowling Pampa Bar, Gil block 300 near San Martín

Santa Rosa

PAMPA PROVINCES To Buenos Aires

SANTA ROSA

Plaza Independenc ia

5

S

PADRE BUODO

E

CORRIENTES

M

EMILIO MITRE

E

CÓRDOBA

Ü

PUEYRREDÓN

G 35

OLIVER

To Neuquén and Bahía Blanca

10

AVE. ESPAÑA

9

B. O'HIGGINS

11 12 13

8

L .N. ALEM

I

7

L . DE LA TORRE

6

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

H. YRIGOYEN

H.LAGOS

GARIBALDI

T. MANSON

N

TO

CHACO

URQUIZA

L .V. MANSILLA

NI

M.T. DE ALVEAR

1 DE MAYO

L.

MI

To Realicó and Córdoba

A

CA

FORMOSA

B

1

T

AVE. PEDRO LURO

AVE. A . SPINET TO 5

4

3

R

35

2

SANTA FE

G

ENTRE RÍOS

Plaza Don Bosc o

M. PAMPEANOS

SAN JORGE

CACIQUE M. ROSAS

Centro Civico

14 15 16 ESTRADA

MORENO

ALMTE. BROWN

RIVADAVIA D

E

18

17 FERRO

25 DE MAYO 21 19 20

P

Plaza San Martín

C

CNEL . GIL

RAÚL B. DIAZ

24 23 22

26

27

25

34

SALTA

37

35 $

AVE. URUGUAY

33 32

DON BOSCO

$

PELLEGRINI 36

$

ESCALANTE

30

A

J.B. JUSTO

29

9 DE JULIO

QUINTANA

28

AVE. B. MITRE

AVELLANEDA 31

AVE. GRAL J.A . ROCA

S. DEL ESTERO

SARMIENTO

AVE. ALSINA

LA RIOJA

GRAL . PICO

38

39 40

JUJUY

VILLEGAS

ANT. ARGENTINA

GONZÁLEZ 43

42

MAIPÚ

CERVANTES

To Laguna Don Tomás

Santa Rosa

354

To Toay

41

LA PAMPA Key to map A B

9 Restaurant Borsalino 10 Restaurant El Pato 12 Restaurant Señor Quintana 14 Restaurant Don Francisco 17 Restaurant Club Español 20 Cafetería Pampa Bar 25 Cafetería Parada Luna 26 Pizzería Pizza Pizuela 27 Pizzería Mar-Jor 28 Restaurant Tai Feng 29 Restaurant San Martín 30 Cafetería El Café de Sonia 35 Restaurant Caníbal 37 Cafetería La Barra 39 Restaurant Chino Santa Rosa 40 Cafetería Gotán 48 Centro Recreativo Don Tomás

Iglesia Catedral Gobernación Provincial (Government) Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica Argentina Dirección Provincial de Turismo and Centro de Información Turística Municipal A.C.A. Banco de La Pampa Bus terminal

C D E I

P $ T

3 Accommodation 2 3 7 11 13 33 47

Hospedaje Tredy Residencial Mitre Hostería Río Atuel Hostería Santa Rosa Hotel Calfacurá Hotel San Martín Camping Municipal Laguna Don Tomás

5 Entertainment 15 19 22 23 31 38

4 Eating out 1 4 6

Restaurant La Terminal Restaurant El Rancho de Pampa Cuatro Restaurant La Candela

Casino Club Cafetería Paloko’s Teatro Español Cine Monumental Cafetería Cádiz Disco Jockey

To Córdoba

44

N

To Toay

SEE CENTRO

35

SANTA ROSA METROPOLITANA

O MAR ZO

AVE. ESPAÑA

18 Austral

7 Tour operators and car rental 5 Dicar Turismo 16 Localiza

9 Sights

36 Museo Histórico Provincial 41 Museo Provincial de Artes

0 Services 8 21 24 32 34 42 44 45 46

Artesanías Argentinas Foto Laboratorio YTC Aero Club Pampeano Estación Ferrocarril Sarmiento Souvenir shop Club de Caza Mayor y Menor Airport Cemetary Centro Cívico

n Entertainment

5 46

• • • •

CIÓ N IGR . SAN TIAG

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

6 Airline offices

• Parada Luna, Yrigoyen 43 Eating out on Circunvalación Santiago Marzo Restaurants • Alberto, Santiago Marzo 2196. Parrilla • El Tío, Santiago Marzo 2512. Parrilla • La Estancia, Santiago Marzo 1006. Parrilla & • Las Brasas, Avenida Santiago Marzo Este 192. Parrilla Eating out in Toay • Restaurant Quincho de Don Pepe, Avenida 9 de Julio 172. Parrilla Casino Club, H. Lagos 467 Cine Monumental, H. Lagos 70 Disco Jockey, 9 de Julio 234 Teatro Español, H. Lagos 44

I Post and telegraph

•

AVE . DE CIRC UNV ALA

48

H. YRIGOYEN

AVE. PEDRO LURO

47

AVE. B. MITRE

Do Lag n un To a m ás

To Buenos Aires

45

35

43 Cafetería Las Viñas

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, corner of H Lagos and Rivadavia Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, H Lagos 258 near Rivadavia

To Neuquén and Bahía Blanca

355

Santa Rosa

PAMPA PROVINCES S Buses from Santa Rosa

The bus terminal is in Avenida Luro 365 on the north side of the civic center. Restaurant El Terminal has 24 hour service. Clean rest rooms. Bus companies • Autotransporte General Pico ° Algarrobo del Águila • El Indio, Formosa 55 @ 426753 ° Toay; 36 daily ° Victorica via Winifreda and Telén; 5 weekly • El Zorzal @ 429152/427285 ° General Acha (1 1 2hrs); 4 daily ° Guatraché ($10.00; 2 hs) via Macachín ($5.50); Mon, Wed, Thurs, Sat, Sun • El Vasquito ° Quemú Quemú via Winifreda and Colonia Barón • Expreso Alberino @ 453780 • Expreso Catriló ° Catriló (11 2 hrs) via Uriburu; 2 dailyExpreso Norte ° Ingeniero Luiggi via Winifreda, Eduardo Castex, and Arata; 5 weekly • SACARA, Avenida Luro 1430 @ 428903 ° Parque Nacional Lihué Calel ($15.00); Mon, Wed, Fri 06:30; 31 2 hrs • Transporte Don Pascual local 1 @ 421855 Bus companies with own terminal • Empresa Dumas, M. Argentina 863 @ 434572 • Expreso Anguil SRL, Entre Ríos 162 @ 432514 • A5 Alto Valle ° 25 de Mayo via General Acha ($5.50, 11 2 hrs) and Chacharramendi; 1 daily • A33 T.A. Chevallier @ 427056 • A71 El Rápido SRL local 11 @ 431113 • A81 Empresa Andesmar, 432841 • A99 Expreso Jocolí • A101 Liniers • A107 Empresa Pehuenche • A155 La Estrella @ 432841 ° Intendente Alvear via General Pico • A211 T.A.C. @ 437779 • A217 Ticsa • A218 Tirsa • A251 TUS/TUP @ 432140 ° Parque Nacional Lihué Calel; 1 daily • A262 El Valle • A296 Dumas @ 432303 ° Bernardo Larroudé; 4 daily ° Embajador Martini; 1 daily ° General Pico via Winifreda and Eduardo Castex; 5 daily ° General Pico via Catriló and Quemú Quemú; 5 daily ° Ingeniero Luiggi via Winifreda, Eduardo Castex, Trenel, Arata and Caleufú

Santa Rosa

356

LA PAMPA Buses from Santa Rosa — continued Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Bahía Blanca Bariloche $58.00 Buenos Aires $30.00 Caleta Olivia Comodoro Rivadavia Córdoba $26.40 Junín de los Andes La Plata Mar del Plata Mendoza Neuquén $28.00 Rawson Rosario San Juan San Luis San Rafael Santiago del Estero San Martín de Los Andes Tandil Trelew $46.00 Viedma

Services 4 daily 4 daily 6 daily 3 weekly 3 weekly 3 daily 1 daily 1 daily 1 daily 9 daily 3 weekly 2 weekly 3 weekly 1–2 daily 2 daily 1 daily 3 weekly

Duration 4 1 2 hrs 21 hrs 7 hrs 19 hrs

Company A81, A251 A33, A218 A33, A107, A155 A81, A211, A251 A81, A211, A251 A251 A251 A101 A71 12 hrs A81, A99 8 hrs A5, A33, A107, A218, A262 A251 A218 A217 A99, A217, A296 A81 A251 A33 A71 A251 A217

•

L Financial • •

Bansud, Quintana 163 @ 22748. ATM Banco de La Pampa, Pellegrini 255 @ 433008. ATM

T Trains

The rail station is on Alsina, opposite Pellegrini. Trains arrive in Buenos Aires at Once station. • Buenos Aires: Departs 20:00 Sun, Wed, Fri; 13 hours

M Services and facilities •

Photography: Laboratorio YTC, Avenida San Martín 145

R Air services •

•

Car rental: Localiza, Yrigoyen 411 1st floor @ 425773

Y Austral, Rivadavia 256 @ 422388 • ° Buenos Aires (1 hr) via Viedma; Mon, Tues, Wed, Thurs, Fri at • 09:15, 10:40, 16:15 Kaikén Líneas Aéreas, at airport ° Córdoba (1hr); Mon, Wed, Thurs & • at 19:25 ° Río Grande via Bahía Blanca, a Trelew, Comodoro Rivadavia, • and Río Gallegos; Tues, Thurs, Fri at 09:20 •

U Motoring

Service stations • A.C.A., corner of San Martín and Gil F Maps available • Esso, Avenida Luro 832

•

357

Shopping

Artesanías Argentinas, Avenida Luro 430. Souvenirs Mercado Artesanal, Avenida Luro near San Martín Souvenir shop, Pellegrini 86. Gaucho items

Sport

Flying: Aero Club Pampeano, Gil 222 @ 423785 Golf: Jockey Club Santa Rosa RN 5 KM 603 @ 423465/425467. International standard, fine clubhouse and swimming pool Hunting: Club de Caza Mayor y Menor, J.V. González 30 @ 424198

Santa Rosa

PAMPA PROVINCES p Sightseeing •

• •

Museo Histórico Provincial (Provincial History Museum), Pellegrini 180. Local history and natural sciences Museo Provincial de Artes (Provincial Art Museum), 9 de Julio 305 Centro Recreativo Don Tomás (Don Tomás Recreation Center). Situated on the 350 ha (865 acre) Laguna Don Tomás, it is a reafforested area with camping facilities

•

s Excursions Tour operators • Dicar Turismo, Formosa 55 @ 430125 fax Excursions • Toay: A small town with a population of 5500 located about 10 km west in rolling hills. It was founded in the eighteenth century by Guillermo Brown as a military outpost and indeed it still is a garrison town. Coming from Santa Rosa on Avenida Perón is Club Caza y Pesca situated in a caldén forest with camping and a regional mini zoo. In Calle 13 de Caballería near Bulevar 9 de Julio is

Casa de La Cultura Olga Orozco which includes the Museo Cívico Militar. On Plaza Guillermo Brown is the house of the town’s founder. It is a favorite weekend retreat Reserva Parque Luro: 35 km south on RN 35. Covering 7500 ha (18 530 acre), it was acquired by the provincial government in 1965 and converted into a provincial reserve to preserve the flora and fauna prevalent in the area. Its originator Pedro O. Luro, founded it as a prestigious hunting lodge-cum-commercial enterprise in the 1880s; it was then still a frontier outpost. There is a variety of wildlife such as pheasants, deer, and stags which proliferated after being imported from Europe. The castillo was built by Don Antonio Maura, a Spanish aristocrat. There is a visitors’ center and the various paths have Araucanian names in honor of the tribes who roamed these areas before the Argentine “pacification”. Open Wed–Sun 09:00–19:00; small admission charge

25 DE MAYO

25 de Mayo Population: 4500 Postal code: 8307 @ area code: (0299) Distance from Santa Rosa: 411 km south-west on RN 35, RN 152 and RP 20

2

5 de Mayo is a pleasant surprise after crossing the dry part of La Pampa Province which extends west from General Acha. It is a fairly new, modern town situated on the east bank of the Río Colorado on RN 151, some 8 km south of Dique Punto Unido. The dam which spans the river also serves as a bridge: its water is used to irrigate the fields around 25 de Mayo. Near the town is the important natural gas field of “El Medanito”. The area is flat. On the other side of the river Neuquén Province begins.

C Accommodation ***

*

Hotel Cruce del Desierto, intersection of RN 151 and RP 20 ACDEFGJKLPTUVYACFGJKLPTUVY @ 4948264

25 de Mayo

*

358

Hostería Hotel Lorca, Avenida Santa Rosa near General Pico AELPV @ 4948006 Hostería Residencial Bardas, Don Bosco near Colonia Barón AELPV @ 4948079

LA PAMPA *

•

U Motoring

Motel A.C.A., RN 151 near Puente Dique AELPV @ 4948064 Residencial Cumelén, General Pico 889 HPV @ 4948015

•

s Excursions

•

E Eating out • •

Y.P.F. service station

Restaurant La Recova, San Martín 98 Cafetería Bigote, General Pico 799

S Buses

The bus terminal is on General Pico near E. Castex. • Empresa Alto Valle has daily services to Santa Rosa and Neuquén

Casa de Piedra: 67km south. This is the name of the dam which was built on the Río Colorado to tame its excesses: floods and drought. The dam is 11 km long and has created a lake of 36 000 ha (89 000 acre). Nearby archeological sites have been found going back 8500 years

VICTORICA

Victorica Population: 5000 Postal code: 6319 @ area code: (02338) Distance from Santa Rosa: 153 km north-west on RN 35 and RP 10

V

ictorica is the gateway to the far north-western corner of La Pampa Province. Located 153 km north-west of Santa Rosa, it is reached on RN 35 and RP 10. •

The oldest town in La Pampa Province, it is steeped in military tradition going back to the 1880 when this was the last frontier. Nearby is a reserva faunística where 80 species of pampa animals roam. The tourist facilities are suitable for low-budget travelers interested in detours off the beaten path.

Hospedaje Ahi-Lee, Calle 17–981 @ (02338) 432085 • Residencial Marcelito, Calle 17–901 @ (02338) 432555 Accommodation in Carro Quemado • Estancia Turística La Marianita, Reservations: @ (02338) 496012

S Bus services

•

A Festivals

In October the Fiesta Provincial de La Ganadería (Rural cattle and horse show) is held in the Parque de Los Pisaderos.

•

C Accommodation

•

*

Las Tres Marías ° La Humada via Telén, Santa Isabel, and Algarrobo del Águila Auto Transporte General Pico runs services to General Pico

U Motoring

Hostería Mazamet, Calle 15–751 AELPV @ (02338) 432201

359

Y.P.F. service station, Calle 15–1185

Victorica

PAMPA PROVINCES

Stopovers

I

STOPOVERS

n this section I have listed those towns which are not on the normal tourist trail but have some facilities.

Catriló Nearest town described: Santa Rosa 82 km west on RN 5 (page 352) Catriló, with a population of 2700, is located on the border with Buenos Aires Province. • Hospedaje Mon Robe, RN 5 KM 527 @(02335) 4911259 • HospedajeLos Dos Panchos, Avenida Viale near H Yrigoyen Colonia Barón Nearest town described: General Pico 50 km north on RP 3, a gravel road (page 346) Located halfway between Winifreda and Quemú Quemú at the intersection of RP 10 and RP 3. • Hospedaje Ga-Lo, España 457 @(02333) 476252 • Hospedaje Pampa, Avenida San Martín 1232 @(02333) 476119 Embajador Martini Nearest town described: Realicó 40 km north on RN 35 (page 351) • Hospedaje Terminal, Terminal de Omnibus @(02335) 495052 General San Martín Nearest town described: General Acha 68 km north-west on RN 35 and RN 152 (page 344) Located on the main road to Bahía Blanca near the border with Buenos Aires Province. • Hospedaje Lilo, Roldán near 25 de Mayo @(02925) 497340

La Adela Nearest town described: Santa Rosa 272 km north on RN 35 and RN 154 (page 352); postal code: 8134 La Adela the southernmost town in La Pampa province., located on the Río Negro opposite the town of Río Negro. It is a stopover when traveling to or from Bahía Blanca. • Motel A.C.A. Caleu-Caleu, RN 22 KM 857 Miguel Riglos Nearest town described: Santa Rosa, 75 km north-east on RP 1 (page 352) • Hospedaje El Ciervo, Avenida Belgrano 771 Parera Nearest town described: Realicó, 33 km east on RP on RP 9 (page 351) • Hospedaje Los Enanitos, Belgrano 271 Quemú Quemú Nearest town described: General Pico 53 km north on RP 1 (page 346); population: 3500 • Hospedaje Residencial Monterrío, Rivadavia 345 @(02333)42308 Rancul Nearest town described: Realicó 47 km east on RN 188 (page 351); population: 2500 • Hospedaje Oásis, Rivadavia 445 • Hospedaje Patrucco, San Martín 340 Winifreda Nearest town described: Santa Rosa 48 km south on RN 5 (page 352)

Ingeniero Luiggi Nearest town described: Realicó 55 km north on RP 2 and RN 35 (page 351) A bit off the beaten path; the turnoff from RN 35 is at Embajador Martini. * Hotel El Sol, 9 de Julio 274 @ (02335) 472219 ** Hostería Niñatum, Rivadavia near Paso AEFGJLPUV @ (02335) 472227

Stopovers

Accommodation • Hotel Epu-Pehuén, 25 de Mayo 366 near Sarmiento @ (02333) 497500 • Residencial Cervantes, Sarmiento near Primera Junta Restaurants • Argentinísima, RN 35. Parrilla • La Terminal, Sarmiento • San Cayetano, Sarmiento

360

SANTA FE PANTA S Santa AMPA FeFPEROVINCES

Plate 6 362 362 363 365 366 367 372 374 375 376 379 383 384

Map of Santa Fe Province Esperanza CEnS Rafaela CEnS Reconquista ABCEnRSU#ai Rosario ABCEnJKLRSUT#VWafiprs Map of Greater Rosario Map of Rosario West Map of Parque Independencia district Map of city center Rufino CS Santa Fe ABCDEnJKLRSUVW#Yaipqr Map s Venado Tuerto CEnSais Highways and Stopovers CES

anta Fe Province covers 133 000 square kilometers (51 350 square miles) and has 2.8 million inhabitants. It is completely flat and has no mountains of any significance. A large part of this province forms part of the Chaco–Pampa plains. It is dominated by the Río Paraná along which are many flood-prone areas.

S

Santa Fe Province shares borders to the north with Chaco Province, to the west with Santiago del Estero and Córdoba, to the south with Buenos Aires, and to the east with Entre Ríos and Corrientes. The main cities are Santa Fe (population 350 000), the provincial capital, and Rosario (population 900 000). Rosario and Santa Fe are among the most heavily industrialized cities in Argentina.

The climate tanges from temperate with a dry season to subtropical with no dry season. The predominant trees in the north are the quebracho and the algarrobo. Santa Fe is a major producer of prime beef and dairy products as well as wheat. Together with Buenos Aires Province it is the granary of Argentina.

361

Santa Fe

PAMPA PROVINCES The province has an extensive first-class road system. The Río Paraná is also navigable and ships ply between Buenos Aires and Santa Fe–Paraná. For the tourist the city of Santa Fe, founded in 1573 by Juan de

Garay, is interesting. Sport fishing in the rivers is possible at any time of the year. Cruising the Río Paraná is another possibility.

ESPERANZA

Esperanza Population: 70 000 Postal code: 3080 @ area code: (03496) Distance from Santa Fe: 37 km north-west at the intersection of RP 70 and RP 6

E

speranza was founded in 1856. Of interest are the Palacio Municipal (Town Hall) dating from 1893 and the Biblioteca Municipal Francisco Sotomayor (public library). The Museo de Ciencias Naturales (Natural Science Museum) is located on the grounds of the Colegio San José. Among the exhibits is a model of the cathedral in Ulm, Germany. The Museo de la Colonización (Colonization Museum), Aarón Castellanos 1543, has exhibits and memorabilia of the first settlers who came from Switzerland, Germany, and France.

A Festivals

•

C Accommodation

•

A Fiesta de La Cerveza (Beer Festival) is held in October. •

•

n Entertainment

Hotel Castellón, A. Castellanos 1684 ADHPTVY @ 424993 fax Hotel Mayo, Sarmiento 2019 @ 420016

La Fabrica Disco, Ave. L. Colonizad 725

A Buses

•

E Eating out •

Comedor La Tablita, General San Martín 1590

Empresa Tata/Central El Rápido runs daily buses to and from Santa Fe

Comedor El Cruce, RN 11 KM 787

RAFAELA

Rafaela Population: 70 000 Postal code: 3560 @ area code: (03492) Distance from Santa Fe: 96 km north-west on RN 19 and RN 34

R

afaela was founded in 1881 and is the center of a rich agricultural area. Places of interest include the Museo Histórico (Historical Museum), Museo de Bellas Artes (Fine Arts Museum), and the golf course.

Esperanza

362

SANTA FE C Accommodation in Rafaela Apart hotels

• Garay, Padre Palmieri 717 • Rafaela, Saavedra 197

Hotels

• Santa Fe, Ave. Santa Fe 704 • Regio, José Ingenieros 12 • Parra, Ave. Santa Fe 554 E-mail: [email protected] • Ferro, Ave. Casa Angela 139 • Claumar, Ave. a. de las Casas 494 • Plaza, Bvar. G. Lehmann 380 • Toscano, Bvar. Santa Fe 442

Residenciales

• Rafaela, Belgrano 489

@ @

437737 426622

ADEHLR

@ @ @

420671 420881 433900

AEFG

@ @ @ @

422239 425698 435198 431898

AHPTY

Accommodation on RN 34

• Hostería del Sol, KM 532 • Motel Ruta 34

E Eating out • • • • •

422675

@ @

440218 441266

3 services weekly to Rosario (4 hrs) and Venado Tuerto (11 2 hrs). • El Cóndor SRL, C. Saavedra 423 @ 425389 • El Serrano, Sarmiento 522 @ 422345/421772 • Empresa General Belgrano, Dr. Zamenhoff 40 @ 432232; daily services to Santa Fe • Flecha Bus, Sarmiento 522 @ 434404

Restaurant Casablanca, Bvar. Santa Fe 586 Restaurant El Ciervo, Los Ceibos near Vieytes Restaurant Joti’s, Perú 1540 Restaurant La Esquina, C. Saavedra 197 Restaurant Venice, Bvar. Santa Fe 442. Snack bar

a Sport

n Entertainment •

@

•

Oxido, disco, Bvar. Santa Fe 1706

S Bus services

Golf: Jockey Club Rafaela, Santa Fe Prolongación @ (03492) 422328

La Estrella S.R.L. runs regular buses to Ceres and Tostado; T.A. Chevallier runs

RECONQUISTA

Reconquista Population: 65 000 Postal code: 3560 @ area code: (03482) Distance from Santa Fe: 324 km north on RN 11 and RP 1

T

he city was founded in 1872 by Colonel Manuel Obligado. It is located some 15 km from its port on the Río Paraná.

363

Reconquista

PAMPA PROVINCES Eating out in Romang • Cafetería Eiffel, San Martín. Dancing • Cafetería Week-End, 3 de Julio near Gervignani. Dancing

Also included here is Romang, located 34 km south on RP 1, and its facilities.

A Festivals •

n Entertainment

Festival Folklórico del Noroeste Argentino (Folk Festival of the Argentine North-west): January

•

R Air services

B Tourist information •

Time Disco Light, Gobernador Iriondo 629

The military air base is used as the airport and is 10 km from town. • Líneas Aéreas de Entre Ríos (LAER), 9 de Julio near Alvear @ 429195 ° Buenos Aires (Aeroparque Jorge Newbery)( 2hrs); 2 weekly

Secretaría Municipal de Deportes, Turismo y Recreación @ 420393

E Eating out Restaurants • Abuela Eldina, H. Yrigoyen 825. Seafood • Don Pierre, Obligado 883 • Centro Recreativo de Artesanos, P. Diez 755 • Pizzería 738, Habegger 752 Cafeterías and confiterías • Casa Blanca, Habegger 1130. Video bar • Olinda Pub, Belgrano 920. Bar • Vedinho Disco, H. Yrigoyen near Mitre • Yaciresa, Habegger 741

S Buses

•

El Cóndor/La Estrella ° La Rioja via Córdoba and Catamarca (16 hrs; $35.00); 3 weekly See also Buses from Rosario on page 370 and from Santa Fe on page 380 • El Norte Bis runs daily services to Resistencia • CACORBA runs 5 services weekly to San Francisco (Córdoba) • La Internacional, P. Diez 1101 @ 421574

C Accommodation in Reconquista Hotels ** ** *

Grand Hotel, Obligado 883 Ychoalay, H Yrigoyen 836 Fax 23753 Magni, Bulevar H. Yrigoyen 755

AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AEFLPSV

@

420020 fax

$G

2

@ @

420752 421470

$F $F

2 2

@

429309

@ @

429010 429583

$G $H

2 2

@

481187

$G

2

Residenciales A A B B

Gamba Hnos, Bulevar H. Yrigoyen 76 bis LP Select, 9 de Julio 730 LP San Martín, Mitre 1202 near Bolívar 788 L Reconquista, Iriondo 658 L

Accommodation on RN 11

• Motel Hostal del Rey, Bulevar H. Yrigoyen 76 bis A Residencial El Parque, at the intersection LP

Accommodation in Romang

• Cabañas Cazatur, on the river B Residencial Romang, San Martín

L

Accommodation in Avellaneda Avellaneda is located on RN 11, 3 km north of town • Hotel Avellaneda, KM 792

Reconquista

ADFHKLSY

364

SANTA FE U Motoring

ince daily except Wed at 15:00. A bus runs from Reconquista to the ferry.

RP 1 north along the (swampy) Río Paraná river flats to Reconquista is incomplete between Alejandra and Romang. In order to reach Romang use RN 11 to Reconquista and turn south into RP 1. • Service station: A.C.A., corner of Bulevar Galvez and Patricio Diez

a Sport

•

Golf: Club San Jerónimo del Rey Golf Club, Raúl Carussi 131

Sport in Romang • Club Náutico Romang, RP 1 at the Camping Municipal

# Water transport

A ferry service runs from Puerto Reconquista to Goya in Corrientes Prov-

ROSARIO

Rosario Population: 950 000 Postal code: 2000 @ area code: (0341) Altitude: 25 m Distances From Santa Fe: 173 km south on RN 11 • From Buenos Aires: 297 km south-peast on RN 9 •

R

osario, the third largest city in Argentina, is situated on the Río Paraná in the southern part of Santa Fe Province. There is no official founding date for the city, which is quite unusual for Spanish colonial history. Its origin can be traced back to an estancia, and to its chapel to the Virgen del Rosario (Virgin of the Rosary) which stood here on the banks at the end of the seventeenth century. Settlers came from Santa Fe La Vieja (or “Old Santa Fe”) to escape the marauding Indians. The first landholder here was Capitán Luis Romero de Pineda, who took up his holding in 1689. In 1852 it became a city.

The Río Paraná is over 5 km wide here and ocean-going vessels can berth in Rosario. Agricultural products from the north-west are shipped from here, making it Argentina’s second biggest trading port. It is both a university and an industrial city. The town is laid out on a grandiose scale with wide avenues and boulevards, most of them tree-lined. Along the Río Paraná runs a splendid boulevard. The bus terminal is somewhat distant from the town center. The local bus services depart from the minibus terminal on Plaza

Sarmiento in San Juan near Corrientes. The Río Paraná is dotted with islands which can be reached by ferries and are weekend destinations for the Rosarinos. A new bridge project across the Río Paraná linking Rosario with Victoria in Entre Ríos Province is under consideration. San Lorenzo is located 27 km upstream on RN 11. It was founded in 1573. On February 3 1813 the troops of San Martín won their first victory over the royalist troops here, beginning the liberation campaign. 365

Rosario

PAMPA PROVINCES •

The Convento de San Carlos Borromeo, now a national shrine, served as a field hospital; the cell where San Martín stayed can still be seen. In 1840 a French fleet and in 1846 a combined Anglo-French fleet tried to open up the Río Paraná for international trade but were defeated by Argentine forces. Nowadays the town is an important industrial center, housing a petrochemical complex. Empresa 9 de Julio runs regular bus services to and from Rosario.

E Eating out Restaurants • Agree, Santa Fe 858 • Bistango, Presidente Roca 848 • Casa 188, 3 de Febrero near Maipú. Shows • Comedor Rex, O. Lagos 145. Italian cuisine • Del Consejo, Maipú 1348, 10th floor. Lebanese cuisine • El Cencerro, Moreno near Cochabamba. Parrilla • El Nuevo Mejor, Santa Fe 1166 • El Viejo Churrasco (Lela Clara), Ave. Pellegrini 1102. Parrilla • Hemingway, Ave. Belgrano near Rioja. Seafood • Il Piccolo Navio, San Luis 709. Seafood • La Aduana, Urquiza 915. Parrilla • La Casa de Doña Rosario, San Lorenzo 848 • La Grespia, Ave. C. Pellegrini 578. Italian cuisine • La Rosa, Rivadavia 3265. Chinese cuisine • Los Martínez, Ave. Pellegrini 1977 • Nataly’s, España 1170 • Nueva Casa Uruguaya. Alvear 1125 • Plaza Chica, Moreno 1731. Parrilla • Plaza Mayor, Comodoro Rivadavia 2611. Spanish cuisine • Rich, San Juan 1031. International cuisine • Señor Arenero, Ave. Costanera 2568. Seafood • Sportivo América, Tucumán 2159 • Viejo Sunderland, Avenida Belgrano 2010. International cuisine • Wembley, Ave. Belgrano 2012 Cafeterías and confiterías • Anabel, Santa Fe 2158 • Augustus, Corrientes 791 • Casa Gómez, Ricchieri 1075 • Indaco, Alsina 1070 • 9 de Julio S.RL., 9 de Julio 851 Fast Food • McLulo, Cafferata 851

A Festivals •

Día de La Bandera (Flag Day): June 20

B Tourist information •

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Santa Fe 581 @ 4214972

To Santa Fe

To San Lorenzo

GRAN ROSARIO

R ío Pa ra ná

11 A 008

34 To Airport

PROVINCE ENTRE RÍOS Isla de la Invernada

N

To Córdoba

Isla del Espinillo

9

1 3 Isla Castellanos

2 Parque Independencia

33

To Casilda

Isla del Francés

21

PROVINCE SANTA FE

18

To Santa Teresa

Rosario

9

To Buenos Aires

Ente Turístico Rosario (ETUR), Ave. Belgrano near Buenos Aires @ 4802230 E-mail: [email protected]; fax 4802237

To San Nicolás

366

SANTA FE BROWN 1

CALLAO

BE RD I

VERA MUJICA

CRESPO

CAFFERATA

SAN NICOLAS

CONSTITUCIÓN

CASTELLANOS

IRIONDO

CATAMARCA

O. LAGOS

AL

AVE. SALTA

TENIENTE GENERAL RICCHIERI

JUJUY

SUIPACHA

E.

AVE. FRANCIA

AV

To Santa Fe

ROSARIO 1 WEST

2

3

TUCUMÁN

URQUIZA

4

SAN LORENZO 5

6

7

To Centro

H

SANTA FE

To Córdoba

9

T

11

CÓRDOBA 12

RIOJA

SAN LUIS

Key to map H T

Hospital Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1

Hotel Mitre

2 4 5 6

Hotel Garden Hotel Viena Hotel Continente Hotel Micro

• • •

Eating out in San Lorenzo • Restaurant El Progreso, Ave. San Martín 1415

n Entertainment

Rosario has a very active night life, including some very good theaters. • Centro Cultural Rivadavia, Ave. San Martín 1080 @ 4802401; concerts and theater and programs of all cultural events in town • La Bola de Nieve, Laprida 813 • Disco Lazaro, 9 de Julio 826

•

7 Hotel Embajador 9 Hotel Nahuel 11 Hotel Onix

Disco Planet, Maipú 1070 Disco Space, Mendoza 3947 Teatro El Círcolo, Laprida 1235. This is the prime venue for concerts and theater performances. Opened in 1904 Teatro La comedia, Gral. B. Mitre 958

I Post and telegraph

• •

367

Post office: Corrreo Argentino, Córdoba 721 Telephone: Rosario Centro, Rioja 1479

Rosario

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Rosario Apart hotels **** **** ****

Hotels ***** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** * * * * * *

• • • • • •

Alvear, Alvear 555 BCDFLY E-mail: [email protected] Río Grande, Dorrego 1261 E-mail: [email protected] Urquiza, Urquiza 1491 Fax 4491677; e-mail: [email protected]

@

4472000;

@

4241144

@

4494900

Plaza del Sol, San Juan 1057 ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$TUVXYZ Fax 4264432 E- mail:plaza.satlink.com @ 4219899 Ariston, Córdoba 2554 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ @ 4259142 fax Libertador, Avenida Corrientes 752 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ Fax 4241380 @ 4241005 Nuevo Hotel Europeo, San Luis 1364 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 4240382 fax Nuevo Hotel Imperio, Urquiza 1264 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 4480091 @ 4262732 Plaza, Barón de Mauá 26 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 4491122 @ 4407097 Presidente, Corrientes 919 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 4242789 fax Pringles, Santa Fe 1470 AEFLRU @ 4474050 fax República, San Lorenzo 955 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 4248549 fax Riviera Palace, San Lorenzo 1460 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 4242058 @ 4242215 Garden, Callao 47 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4388155 Mayoral, Alberdi 1142 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4397530 fax Rosario, Cortada Ricardone 1365 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4242170 Savoy, San Lorenzo 1028 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 4480071/2 fax Benidorm, San Juan 1049 AEFGJLPUV @ 4219368 Colonial, Maipú 1543 @ 4219041 Viena, Ovidio Lagos 555 AEFGJLPUV @ 4390037/8 fax Zurich, Mendoza 2355 @ 4244797 Cristal, San Juan 4065 AELPV Fax 4305232 @ 4396058 La Viña, 3 de Febrero 1244 AELPV @ 4214549 Litoral, Entre Ríos 1045 AELPV @ 4211426 Monumento, Buenos Aires 1020 AELPSV @ 4400930 Nogaré, Mendoza 1578 AELPV @ 4249027 Normandie, Mitre 1030 AELPV @ 4212694 Bahía, Maipú 1262 @ 4217271 Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires 1063 La Paz, Barón de Maua 36 @ 4408930 Marconi, San Juan 1077 @ 449115 Nuevo City Hotel, San Juan 867 ADEHVY @ 4404903 Romijor, Laprida 1050 @ 4217276

Residenciales

• Mendoza, Mendoza 1246

Rosario

@

368

4246544

$C/D 2 $E

2

$D/E 2 $E

2

$E

2

$E

2

$E

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2

SANTA FE Accommodation in Rosario — continued Accommodation near bus terminal Local bus services to the bus terminal: #101, #102 and #120 *** *** ** ** ** ** **

Accommodation near Norte station *

@ @ @

4370200 4303457 4386584

$G $G

2 2

@ @

4386367 4353530

$G

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@ @

4397192 4397292 fax

$G $G

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(03476) 425025 fax (03476) 422434

María I, Córdoba 4774 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Onix, Vera Mujica 757 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Continente, Santa Fe 3746 Embajador, Santa Fe 3554 AEFHLPTVY Fax 4384188 Hotel Avellaneda, Ave. Avellaneda 679 ADHVY Micro, Santa Fe 3650 AEFGJLPUV Fax 4374210 Nahuel, Santa Fe 3619 AEFGJLPSUV Hotel Callao 68

Accommodation in San Lorenzo Hotel Horizonte, Saavedra 2020 • Hotel Victoria, Gral. López 1201

***

L Financial • •

Car rental • A1 Rent a Car, Sargento Cabral 519 @ 4245171 fax • Localiza, Córdoba 4199 @ 4351234. Small car $60.00 per, $0.37 per km; plus IVA and insurance

Citibank, Santa Fe 1101. ATM First National Bank of Boston, Córdoba 1201. ATM Cambio Estelar, Ave. Córdoba 1444 @ 4498580 Cambio Exprinter, Córdoba 960. Commision on travelers checks

• •

T Trains Stations • Rosario Norte (F C General B Mitre), Avenida Wheelwright 1520 ° The Buenos Aires–Tucumán intercity express makes a stop here three times per week

U Motoring services

The autopista now runs north to Santa Fe and tp Buenos Aires. • Service station: A.C.A., Bulevar Oroño near 3 de Febrero

R Air services from Rosario

The airport is at Fisherton, 14 km west of the town center, via Autopista A008 Manuel Tienda León, Santa Fe 2000 @ 4492807 runs direct bus services to Ezeiza International Airport. Picks up passengers from home and hotels. Airlines • Aerolíneas Argentinas, Santa Fe 1410 @ 4249332, fax 4249292 • Andesmar, Rioja 1189 @ 4259850 fax • Southern Winds, Mitre 737 @ 4253808 Services • • • • • • •

Destination Buenos Aires Catamarca Córdoba Mendoza Salta San Luis Tucumán

Fare $130.00 $69.00 $131.00 $179.00 $130.00 $146.00

Services 6 daily 3 weekly 10 weekly 5 weekly 5 weekly 3 weekly 5 weekly

Duration 3 hrs 4 43 4 hrs 1 hour 21 2 hrs 31 2 hrs 21 4 hrs 21 2 hrs

369

Airline Austral, Aerolíneas ANDESMAR ANDESMAR ANDESMAR ANDESMAR ANDESMAR ANDESMAR

Rosario

PAMPA PROVINCES S Buses from Rosario

The bus terminal is at Cafferata 702 (corner of Santa Fe, block 3400–3600); @ (0341) 4392844. Buenos Aires can be reached on RN 9, via San Nicolás and General Pacheco, or on RN 8 then 188, via Pergamino. This latter route is less frequented by trucks. Bus companies operating from the bus terminal • BASA Costera Criolla @ 4350419 • Expreso Arito SA ° Rufino via Venado Tuerto • A9 Atahualpa SRL, @ 4385320 • A25 Casilda SA, boletería 5/6 @ 4390698 • A28 Central Argentino @ 4375294 • A32 Empresa General Urquiza, local 12 @ 4386700 • A33 T.A. Chevallier, boletería 7/8 @ 4385551 ° Rafaela (4 hrs) via Casilda, Firmat, and Venado Tuerto (23 4 hrs); 3 weekly • A37 Ciudad de Posadas • A61 El Norte Bis @ 4394131 ° Reconquista; 2 daily • A71 TATA Rápido, oficina 18/19 @ 4390901 ° Ceres (53 4 hrs); 1 daily ° Santa Fe; 34 daily • A73 El Santiagueño • A83 Empresa Argentina, @ 4302298 • A100 Kurtz @ 4370393 ° Puerto Iguazú via Posadas • A115 ENCON • A132 Expreso Singer, @ 4395894 • A137 Flecha Bus @ 4309333 • A157 La Internacional @ 4388748 • A164 La Veloz del Norte @ 4370466 • A179 Micro @ 4384131 • A190 Pluma • A193 Puerto Tirol ° Santa Fe; 5 daily • A211 T.A.C. • A218 Tirsa • A299 ABLO @ 4396806 • A339 El Rápido SRL @ 4307865 • A345 Empresa Río Coronda SRL boletería 11 @ 4561736 Bus companies with their own terminals • Autoflash, Carranza 1558 @ 4583773 ° Ezeiza Airport via Buenos Aires Long-distance services • • • • • • •

Destination Asunción Bahía Blanca Bariloche Buenos Aires Catamarca Córdoba Corrientes

Rosario

Fare $56.00 $80.00 $16.00 $20.00

Services 2 daily 2 daily 2 weekly 14 daily 2 daily 6 daily 8 daily

Duration Company 121 2 hrs A157 A299 24 hrs A33, A218 6 hrs A33, A71, A73, A157, A193, A299 12 1 2 hrs A33 6 hrs A25, A33, A299 14 hrs A33, A37, A61, A71, A100

370

SANTA FE Buses from Rosario — continued • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Formosa $44.00 La Plata $22.00 La Rioja Mar Del Plata Mendoza $35.00 Montevideo (Uru) Neuquén $75.00 Paraná $11.00 Paso de Los Libres Posadas Puerto Iguazú Punta Del Este Resistencia $32.00 Piripolis (Bras.) Porto Alegre (Bras.) Rio Do Janeiro (Bras.) Salta San Juan San Luis $26.50 Santa Fe $9.00 Santiago del Estero $25.00 Termas de Río Hondo $35.20 Tucumán $38.70

3 daily 3 daily 2 daily 3 daily 2 daily 2 weekly 1–2 daily 7 daily 2 daily 5 daily 2 daily 5 daily

1 daily 2 daily 15 daily

A193 6 hrs A83 A299 A83, A218, A299 14 hrs A211 A115, 14 hrs A33, A218 3 hrs A71, A137 A61, A100 16 hrs A37, A61, A100, A61, A100 A115 10 hrs A37, A61, A100, A157 A115 A190 A190 A9, A164 A211 10 hrs A211 21 4 hrs A33, A71, A157, A179

4 daily 5 daily 4 daily

A33, A71, A73, A164 10 hrs A33 11 hrs A9, A33, A164

•

•

Rosario Oeste (F C General M Belgrano), Paraná 1350 (corner of 9 de Julio) Services • Buenos Aires: 4 hours; 12 services daily

• • •

# Water transport •

•

•

On weekends and holidays the boat Ciudad de Rosario runs a two-hour trip around the nearby islands on the Río Paraná. It leaves from the Estación Fluvial near the Monumento a la Bandera (Monument to the Flag) A ferry service runs up the Río Paraná and Río Carbón Grande between Puerto General San Martín and Victoria in Entre Ríos Province

Club de Velas, Marull near Avenida Costanera Club Náutico Sportivo Avellaneda, Ibarlucea Norte 350 @ 4380625 Club Remeros Alberdi, Avenida Carrasco 2055 @ 4550092 Rosario Rowing Club, Islas de Los Bañistas 492 @ 4550149 Yacht Club Rosario, Avenida Costanera near Washington

Aero clubs • Aero Club Rosario, Sarmiento 781 • Círculo de Aviación, Sarmiento 503 Golf • Rosario Golf Club, Morrison 9900 @ 4568838/4512428 • Jockey Club Rosario, Córdoba near Wilde Sport in Pérez Pérez is located 11 km west of Rosario on RN 34. • Golf: Club S.D.F.G. Mitre (Pérez), RN 33 @ (0341) 4851108

a Sport •

Race course. The Hipodromo is located in Parque Independencia • Swimming at sandy Florida beach, about 8 km north of Rosario Boating, sailing and rowing • Club de Regatas Rosario, Pje Cordiviola 1268 @ 4399281 371

Rosario

PAMPA PROVINCES AV BROWN

Río E.

WH

EE

LW

RIG

Pa

ran

á

HT

JUJUY AVE

. DE

L H U

ER

TO

AVE. SALTA

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Map Rosario 3

Map Rosario 1

TUCUMÁN 2

1

URQUIZA 4 3 5

SAN LORENZO 8

7 6

SANTA FE 12 9

11 $

10

13

CORDOBA 16

$

PUEYRREDÓN

SANTIAGO

RIOJA

ALVEAR

CALLAO

RODRÍGUEZ

RICARDONE 15

14

E

19

18 17

SAN LUIS 21

22

20

SAN JUAN 23

26

24 25

MENDOZA 27

29

28

30

3 DE FEBRERO P

9 DE JULIO

E ZEBALLOS 31

B. MITRE

ENTRE RÍOS

AVE. CORRIENTES

PARAGUAY

ESPAÑA

ITALIA

AVE. MORCILLO

FA

33 34

DORREGO

IN

MORENO

E.

BALCARCE

AVE. PELLEGRINI

AV

BVAR. OROÑO

32

PRESIDENTE ROCA

MONTEVIDEO

COCHABAMBA

N TE

35

AV

PASCO

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ITUZAINGÓ

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Parque Independenc ia

CERRITO

36

RIOBAMBA

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AV

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D.

VIAMONTE ALE

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BVAR. 27 DE FEBRERO

To Buenos Aires

Rosario

372

ROSARIO 2 PARQUE INDEPENDENCIA

SANTA FE Key to map E P

Telephone: Rosario Centro A.C.A.

3 Accommodation 2 3 4 5 7 9 12 15 17 18 21 22 25 27 29

Hotel Nuevo Imperio Apart Hotel Alvear Apart Hotel Urquiza Hotel Riviera Palace Apart Hotel Pringles Hotel Ariston Hotel Libertador Hotel Rosario Hotel Presidente Hotel Nuevo 1 Europeo Hotel Litoral Hotel Normandie Residencial Mendoza Hotel Zurich Apart Hotel Río Grande

9 Sights

30 Hotel La Viña

4 Eating out 1

6 13 14 23 24 33 34

Restaurant Sportivo América Cafetería Anabel Cafetería Augustus Restaurant Bistango Restaurant Nueva Casa Uruguaya Restaurant Nataly’s Restaurant Los Martínez Restaurant Plaza Chica

5 Entertainment

19 Teotro La Comedia 36 Hipódromo

10 Museo Municipal de Ciencias Naturales “Dr Angel Gallardo” 31 Museo Municipal de la Ciudada de Rosario 32 Museo Municipal de Nellas Artes “Juan B. Castagnino” 35 Museo Histórico Provincial “Dr Juilo Marc”

0 Services

11 Cambio Estelar 16 First National Bank of Boston 20 Minibus terminal

6 Airline offices 8

Aerolíneas Argentinas

p Sightseeing

stream. In the grounds of the park is a fish breeding research station • Parque Justo José de Urquiza, located on the Río Paraná, at the intersection of Bulevar Pellegrini and Chacabuco. Inside the park is the Observatorio Astronómico Municipal (Municipal Astronomical Observatory) and the Anfiteatro Municipal H. de Nito Churches • Catedral Basilica Nuestra Señora del Rosario, Buenos Aires 789 on Plaza 25 de Mayo, was built in the baroque style. The image of the Virgin was brought from Cádiz in 1773 Museums • Museo Histórico Provincial “Dr Julio Marc” (Dr Julio Marc Provincial History Museum), in Parque Independencia on the northern (Avenida Pellegrini) side. In the thirty-five exhibition rooms are pre-Colombian and colonial artefacts from Argentina and Spanish America, including weavings, archeological items, paintings, and furniture. Open Tues–Fri 09:00–12:30; Sat and Sun 15:00–18:00 • Museo de Arte Decorativo “Firma y Odilo Estévez” (Firma and Odilo Estévez Decorative Art Museum), Santa Fe 748, exhibits a collection of paintings, furniture, china, ceramics, silver, and carpets. Open Wed–Fri 16:00–20:00

Monuments and parks • Monumento Nacional a la Bandera (Nacional Monument to the Flag), situated in Parque Nacional a la Bandera on the river where Avenida Belgrano and 25 de Mayo intersect. Erected in honour of General Belgrano, who designed the Argentine flag and raised it on this spot in 1812 for the first time. This building is the resting place of the famous general. Also in the hall housed in glass cabinets are the flags of all the nations of South America, symbolizing the bonds between these countries. The tower flanking the building is 78 m high. Open Mon 14:00–20:00; Tues and Sun 09:00–20:00 • Parque Independencia is located in the center of the city, intersected by Bulevar Pellegrini and Bulevar Oroño. It was created in 1902 and considered one of the finest parks in the country. On the 126 ha (311 acres) there are several artificial lakes with water-birds, a rose garden, and a large Spanish ceramic fountain. The park also contains sports clubs and museums • Parque Alem, at the end of Bulevar Avellaneda on the corner of Cordiviola, on the banks of the Río Paraná. It has views over the river to the islands in the middle of the

373

Rosario

PAMPA PROVINCES ROSARIO 3 CENTRO

CATAMARCA

SAN MARTÍN

TUCUMÁN

O

SARMIENTO

B. MITRE

UR AL S. CABR

ZO

ZA

LAPRIDA

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AN

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ra

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26

29

NO

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27

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9 DE JULIO

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o

15

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21

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22

19

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S

9 25 de Mayo

TR

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17

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IA

I 5

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Pedestrian mall

Continued map Rosario 2

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11

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S A N TA

IA

N C

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6

23

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VI

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PR

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NO

31 34 32 33

AVE. PELLEGRINI

COCHABAMBA

PASCO

•

•

•

To Buenos Aires

Museo Municipal de Ciencias Naturales “Dr Angel Gallardo” (Dr Angel Gallardo Municipal Natural Science Museum), Moreno 750, has fifteen rooms of zoological, botanical, mineralogical, palaeontological and anthropological exhibits. Open Tues–Fri 09:00–12:30 Museo Municipal de La Ciudad de Rosario (Rosario City Municipal Museum), Bulevar Oroño 1540, gives an overview of the city’s past and present Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes “Juan B. Castagnino” (Juan B. Castagnino Municipal Fine Arts Museum), Pellegrini 2202 near Bulevar

Rosario

BERUTI

Plaza General L ópez

35

ESMERALDA

CHACABUCO

MONTEVIDEO

•

374

Oroño, exhibits in the 34 rooms more than 1600 paintings by outstanding Argentine and foreign artists. Includes paintings of Tician, Goya and El Greco. The library specializes in art and has 4000 volumes. Open We–Fri 16:00–20:00; Sat and Sun 14:00–20:00 Museo del Paraná y Islas, in the wharf building on the corner of Avenida Belgrano and Rioja, contains paintings by the famous artist Raúl Domínguez, who captured vividly the life of the people living on the banks and the islands of the Río Paraná

SANTA FE Key to map A C D

Catedral Basilica Nuestra Señora del Rosario Palacio Municipal (Town hall) Corrreo Argentino

3 Accommodation 2 7 19 21 22 23

Hotel Savoy Hotel República Hotel Romijor Hotel Monumento Hotel Buenos Aires Hotel Benidorm, Hotel Plaza del Sol and Hotel Marconi 25 Hotel Nuevo City 26 Hotel Bahía 31 Hotel Colonial

4 Eating out 3

Restaurant La Aduana

4 6 8 20 24 28 30 32 33

17 Andesmar

9 Sights 9

Museo de Arte Decorativo “Firma y Odilo Estévez” 14 Monumento Nacional a La Bandera 16 Museo del Paraná y Islas 34 Observatorio Astronómico Municipal

0 Services 1 5 10 11 12 13

Círculo de Aviación ETUR Citibank Aero Club Rosario Cambio Exprinter Dirección Municipal de Turismo 15 Estación Fluvial

5 Entertainment 18 27 29 35

Disco Planet Teatro El Círcolo Disco Lazaro Anfiteatro Humberto de Nito

s Excursions •

6 Airline offices

Restaurant La Casa de Doña Rosario Restaurant El Nuevo Mejor Restaurant Agree Restaurant Il Piccolo Navio Restaurant Rich Restaurant Del Consejo Cafetería 9 de Julio Restaurant El Viejo Churrasco (Lela Clara) Restaurant La Grespia

Rosario has some good beach resorts in the northern suburbs on the Paseo Ribereño Norte. Of interest to tourists are Balneario Municipal Rambla Catalunia near the intersection of

• •

Bvar Avellaneda and the northern exit of RN 11 Laguna Melincué: See Excursions from Venado Tuerto on page 384 San Lorenzo; see introduction to Rosario on page 365

RUFINO

Rufino Postal code: 6100 @ area code: (03382) Distance from Rosario: 95 km south-west at the intersection of RN 33 and RN 9

R

ufino is located at the intersection of RN 33 with RN 7 in the extreme south west of the province. It is an important crossroads.

C Accommodation in Rufino

• Hotel Astur, Primitivo Galán 81 ADEFSVY • Hotel Quime Quipan, Santa Fe 59 ADEFGH E-mail: [email protected] • Hotel Gallo, Bvar. San Martín 239 • Hotel Gravino, Italia 331 • Hotel Savoia, Ave. Cobo 144

375

@ @

429317 429366

@ @

429247 429347

Rufino

PAMPA PROVINCES

SANTA FE

Santa Fe Population: 345 000 Postal code: 3000 @ area code: (0342) Altitude: 21 m Distances From Paraná: 30 km west on RN 168 (via the Túnel Subfluvial Uranga Silvestre • Begnis) From Rosario: 173 km south on RN 11 •

S

anta Fe is located on Laguna Setúbal, which is linked to the Río Paraná by the Canal de Acceso. Its official name is Santa Fe de la Vera Cruz, but it is generally known simply as “Santa Fe”.

B Tourist information Santa Fe is the provincial capital and • Dirección de Turismo de La the center of a very fertile agriculProvincia, San Martín 1389 @ 4580517 tural region. The original settlement fax 4593572 was founded by Juan de Garay on • Dirección Municipal de Turismo, November 15, 1573 in Cayastá, some Belgrano 2910 in the lobby of the bus 100 km north-east from its present terminal, @ 4526683. Other offices are on the main roads coming into town. site. Owing to constant attacks by InOpen every day 07:00–13:00 and dian tribes and frequent flooding, it 14:00–20:00 was relocated in 1650 to its present Tourist information in Santo Tomé site. Six conventions were held in • Dirección Municipal de Santo Tomé, this city before the constitution was Iriondo 149 @ 4741678 adopted in 1853. The city center is situated between Plaza San Martín D Camping and Plaza 25 de Mayo. • Camping Municipal Brigadier General Estanislao López, Santo Tomé, The city is linked with the city of 10 km south of the city center on Paraná in Entre Ríos Province by the RN 11, on the beach $1.00 per tent Túnel Subfluvial Uranga Silvestre Begnis under the Río Paraná; see E Eating out “Excursions” below. Eating out in the city center Two suburbs deserve mention: Try surubí, the local fish. Santo Tomé about 6 km south of the Restaurants town center, and the suburb of • Carlucci, Avenida R Freyre 2350. InGuadelupe 5 km north of town; both ternational cuisine have many good restaurants. • Centro Piemontés, 3 de Febrero 3259. Italian cuisine Also included here is Recreo • Círculo Italiano, H. Yrigoyen 2457 and its facilities. Recreo is a small town 17 km north of Santa Fe & • Club Sirio Libanés, San Martín 2748. Restaurant reached on RN 11. There is a golf • Club Regatas, Ave. Alem 3288 course. • Don Felipe, Bulevar Pellegrini 3280. A Festivals •

• •

Foundation of the city: November

Santa Fe

376

International cuisine Don Marcos, Las Heras 3601 España, San Martín 2644

SANTA FE C Accommodation in Santa Fe Hotels **** **** **** *** *** *** ***

&

*** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** *

•

• • •

ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ @ 4551195 fax Hostal de Santa Fe de Vera Cruz, San Martín 2954 @ 4551740 fax ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Río Grande, San Gerónimo 2586 ACEFGHJKLMNP$TUYZ Take bus 4, 5, 8, 10, 14 or 18 @ 4500700 Bertaina, H Yrigoyen 2255 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Near bus terminal @ 4532287 fax Brigadier, San Luis 3148 AEKLPSV Take bus 6 @ 4537387 Castelar, 25 de Mayo 2349 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4560999 fax Corrientes, Corrientes 2520 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4592126 fax Gran Hotel España, 25 de Mayo 2647 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4552264 fax Hernandariass, Rivadavia 2684 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4529752 Intersur, Mariano Comas 2555 ACHKT @ 4555890 Nuevo Suipacha, Suipacha 2375 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 4551840 @ 4521135 Zavaleta, H. Yrigoyen 2349 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4551840 fax Cervantes, 25 de Mayo 2277 AEFGJLPUV @ 4529888 Colón, San Luis 2862 AEFGJLPUV Take bus 6 or 14 @ 4521586 Emperatriz, Yrigoyen Freyre 2440 AEFGJLPSUV Near bus terminal @ 4530061 Grand Carlitos, Yrigoyen Freyre 2336 AEFGJLPUV @ 4531541 Niza, Rivadavia 2755 AELPV @ 4522047 Apolo, Belgrano 2821 E Opposite bus terminal; for budget travelers @ 4527984 California, 25 de Mayo 2190 E @ 4523988 Royal, Yrigoyen Freyre 2256 Opposite bus terminal @ 4527359 Umberto, Crespo 2224 Near bus terminal; for budget travelers @ 4550409 Conquistador, 25 de Mayo 2676

Accommodation in Santo Tomé

• Motel Autotel T3, C. Ricchieri near RN 11

& •

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Gran Parrilla Rivadavia, Rivadavia 3299. Parrilla • La Fontana Ristorante, San Jerónimo 3480 • Las Cuartetas, Bulevar Pellegrini 2577 • Las Leñas, San Luis 3499. Parrilla • Super Grill, Belgrano 2991; opposite bus terminal Pizzerías • Tuyú, Bulevar Pellegrini 3107 Cafeterías and confiterías • Baviera Santiago, 25 de Mayo 3287. Beer garden • Island VIP, Bulevar Galvez 2357. Dancing

La Pachanga, Rivadavia 2875. Dancing • Las Delicias, San Martín 2898 • Necochea, Bulevar Galvez 1945 Fast food • McDonalds, San Martín 2139 • Papanata’s, Dr. Zavalla 1300 Eating out in Guadalupe Guadelupe is a small beach resort to the north of the town center; see “Excursions” below. Around the intersection of Javier de La Rosa and Avenida Almirante Brown (the costanera) are many good and fashionable restaurants. Take colectivo 16 from the city center.

377

Santa Fe

SANTA FE •

n Entertainment

Restaurant El Quincho de Chiquito, Avenida Costanera 7100. Seafood • Restaurant El Quincho de Don Pipo, Javier de La Rosa 223. Parrilla Eating out in Santo Tomé Santo Tomé is located south of Santa Fe. It has developed into a “Gourmet Suburb” with many fine restaurants.

•

I Post and telegraph

• •

A B C D E H I P $ T

Catedral Iglesia Matríz de Todos Los Santos Casa de Gobierno (Government House) Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Hospital Tourist information A.C.A., Rivadavia 3101 Money exchange Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 12 13 14 17 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 35 36 37 38 41 43 45

Hotel Brigadier Hotel Nuevo Suipacha Hotel Umberto Hotel Hostal de Santa Fe de Vera Cruz Hotel Niza Hotel Emperatriz Hotel Grand Carlitos Hotel Zavaleta Hotel Royal Hotel Colón Hotel Bertaina Hotel Apolo Hotel Gran Hotel España Hotel Conquistador Hotel Hernandariass Hotel Río Grande Hotel Castelar Hotel Cervantes Hotel California

Post office: Correo Argentino, 27 de Febrero 2331 Telephone: Telecom Mendoza 2340

L Financial

•

Restaurants • Las Vegas, Avenida Ejército • El Libertador, Avenida Luján 2310. Italian cuisine • Fortín Luján, Avenida Luján 3701. Parrilla • La Tablita, Avenida Ricchieri 3882 near RN 11. Parrilla Cafeterías • Container, Derqui 2171. Dancing • La Roche, Avenida 7 de Marzo 1276. Bar

Key to map

Passage, San Martín 3243

•

Citibank, San Martín 2601. ATM and Diners Club cards Cambio Tourfe, San Martín 2500 @ 4551382 commission on traveler cheques

R Air services

The airport is at Sauce Viejo, 17 km south of the city center on RN 1. • Aerolíneas Argentinas, Lisandro de La Torre 2633 @ 4597287 ° Buenos Aires (1 hour); 1–2 daily

48 Hotel Corrientes

4 Eating out 1 2 5 6

7 8 10 11 18 20 21 31 34 40 44 53 57

Restaurant Don Marcos Restaurant Don Felipe Pizzería Tuyú Restaurant La Fontana Ristorante Restaurant Las Cuartetas Restaurant Las Leñas Restaurant Baviera Santiago Restaurant Gran Parrilla Rivadavia Restaurant Super Grill Cafetería Las Delicias Restaurant Círculo Italiano Restaurant Club Sirio Libanes Restaurant España Restaurant Carlucci Fast food McDonalds Restaurant Centro Piemontés Papanata’s

5 Entertainment

3 Cafetería Island VIP 9 Disco Passage 22 Cafetería La Pachanga

6 Airline offices

16 Líneas Aéreas de Entre Ríos (LAER) 47 Austral

378

7 Tour operators and car rental 15 Unidas Rent a Car 32 A1 Rent a Car 46 Localiza Rent a Car

9 Sights

49 Plazoleta C.A. Candeotti 50 Casa Colonial de Los Aldao 51 Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes “Rosa Galisteo de Rodríguez” 52 Iglesia Nuestra Señora de Los Milagros 54 Iglesia Santo Domingo 55 Casa del Brigadier General Estanislao López 56 Museo Etnográfico y Colonial Juan de Garay 59 Museo Histórico de San Francisco and Convento San Francisco

0 Services

19 Dirección Municipal de Turismo 33 Cambio Tourfe 39 Citibank 42 Puerto de Santa Fe 58 Dirección de Turismo de La Provincia

Santa Fe

SANTA FE To Reconquista 1

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48

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54 53

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SANTA FE

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ENT RE RÍOS

To Rosario

379

Santa Fe

PAMPA PROVINCES S Buses from Santa Fe

The bus terminal is on Belgrano 2910 @ (042) 4553908. This spacious modern building has a tourist office, cloakroom, clean rest rooms, and a 24-hour café. Bus companies • A33 T.A. Chevallier • A37 Ciudad de Posadas • A55 El Cóndor SRL, boletería 2 @ 4539690 • A60 El Litoral @ 4527470 • A61 El Norte Bis @4529725 ° Reconquista; 1 daily • A75 El Serrano @ 4553524 • A100 Empresa Kurtz • A115 ENCON SRL, boletería 22/23 @ 4557013 • A132 Empresa Singer • A137 Flecha Bus, boletería 20 @ 4557368 ° Rafaela; daily buses • A157 La Internacional, @ 4538006 • A179 Micro Ejecutivo @ 455822 ° Rosario; 5 daily • A193 Puerto Tirol • A299 ABLO • A322 Central El Rápido @ 4534965 ° Tostado (41 2 hrs) via Esperanza, Elisa, and San Cristóbal; 1 daily • ETACER @ 4520941 ° Paraná ($3.20; 1 hr); 24 hour service Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Asunción (Paraguay) $54.00 Bahía Blanca Buenos Aires $28.00 Córdoba $18.50 Corrientes $32.00 Formosa $35.20 La Rioja Mar Del Plata $47.00 Mendoza $42.00 Montevideo (Uruguay) $47.75 Posadas $35.00 Puerto Iguazú $45.00 Resistencia $27.00 Rosario $10.50 Salta $60.00 San Luis $35.00 Santiago del Estero $35.00 Termas de Río Hondo $38.00 Tucumán $44.00

Santa Fe

Services 5 daily 2 daily 7 daily 4 daily 5 daily 3 daily 1 daily 2 daily 2 daily

Duration Company 13 hrs A157 A299 6 hrs A157, A179, A193, A322 53 4 hrs A75, A132 10 hrs A33, A37, A61, A193, A322 A193 A299 13 hrs A179, 121 2 hrs T.A.C.

3 weekly 4 daily 1 daily 5 daily 10 daily 2 daily

12 hrs Cora 12 hrs A37, A100, A132 16 hrs A100 A37, A61, A157 2 hrs A33, A157, A179, A322 15 hrs La Veloz del Norte T.A.C.

2 daily

10 hrs A55

2 daily 2 Daily

11 hrs A55 121 2 hrs A55

380

SANTA FE •

Líneas Aéreas de Entre Ríos (LAER), San Martín 2984 @ 4550157 ° Buenos Aires; 6 weekly

U Motoring

The road south to Rosario (160 km) is a four-lane highway. The road north to Formosa (894 km) is sealed all the way. Car Rental • A1 Rent a Car, 25 de Mayo 2786 @ 4521697 • Localiza Rent a Car, L. de la Torre 2458 @ 4564481. Small car $60.00 per day and $0.37 per km plus insurance and IVA • Unidas Rent a Car, San Martín 2945 Service stations • A.C.A., Rivadavia 3101 of Suipacha @ 443999

•

# Water transport

•

Passenger boats no longer stop at Santa Fe, but only in Paraná. River cruises • Passenger boat Cirinda @ 4595336 has weekend and holiday cruises

Y Shopping

The main shopping street is San Martín, which is a pedestrian mall between Lisandro de La Torre and La Rioja.

•

a Sport •

Golf: Jockey Club Santa Fe, Gorostiaga 5000 @ 461580; 18-hole golf course near the racecourse. The jockey club holds Sunday race meeting with on-course betting • Club Náutico Azopardo Sport in Santo Tomé • Golf: Club de Campo El Paso, Zona Rural @ 421715 Sport in Recreo • Los Molinos Country Club, Campo Crespo @ 4905152

Santos (First All Saints’ Church), Avenida Gral López 2672 (corner of San Jerónimo) on Plaza de Mayo. Construction began in 1661 and the outside was remodelled in 1747. It is the resting place of famous Argentines Convento San Francisco (St Francis Convent), corner of San Martín and Amenábar, was built in 1680. Some of the walls are nearly 2 m thick. This church represents one of the finest examples of Spanish colonial architecture. Particularly noteworthy are the carved wooden ceilings. A picture of “El Nazareno” (“The Nazarene”) was given by Queen María Ana of Austria in 1650. Inside is the tomb of General Estanislao López and his wife. On the same grounds is the Museo de San Francisco; see below Iglesia Nuestra Señora de Los Milagros (Our Lady of the Miracles Church), also known as Iglesia de la Merced (Church of Mercy), San Martín 1580 near Avenida General López. Built by the Jesuits in 1660, it is the oldest church in Santa Fe. Inside is a picture of the Holy Virgin which was painted in 1633 by a German Jesuit friar in Santa Fe La Vieja Iglesia Santo Domingo (St Dominic’s Church), 3 de Febrero 2811 near 9 de Julio

Museums • Casa de Gobierno (Government House), 3 de Febrero 2649. Built in 1906 on the old Cabildo site, it is the seat of the provincial government. In the old Cabildo the signing of the 1829 treaty with Brazil took place, as well as the federation treaty of 1831. Several other constitutional congresses were also held here • Casa Colonial de Los Aldao (Colonial Home of the Aldao Family), Buenos Aires 2845. Built around 1711, it is a typical colonial house, believed to be the oldest house in Santa Fe. Open Mon –Fri 08:00–12:00 and 16:00–19:00 • Museo Histórico de San Francisco (St Francis Museum), corner of San Martín and Amenábar. On exhibit are religious memorabilia and historic documents from the colonial and republican era including the testament

p Sightseeing

The historical part of the city is around Plaza 25 de Mayo, between J J Paso and General López. Churches • Catedral (Cathedral), whose official name is Iglesia Matríz de Todos Los

381

Santa Fe

PAMPA PROVINCES

•

•

•

•

of Gerónima Contreras de Hernandarias, daughter of Juan de Garay the second founder of Buenos Aires. Open daily 09:00–12:00 and 16:00–19:00 Casa del Brigadier General Estanislao López (House of Brigadier-General Estanislao López), San Martín 1490. Built around 1660, it houses a great many historical objects and paintings from the Cuzco school and utensils coming from Indian settlements along the river, and a collection of contemporary weapons. One room is dedicated to Brigadier General Estanislao López one of the provincial heros of the nineteenth century. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–12:00 and 17:00–19:00; Sat and Sun 15:00–18:00 Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes “Rosa Galisteo de Rodríguez”(Provincial Fine Arts Museum), 4 de Enero 1552 near General López, has a collection of over 2000 paintings, mainly by Argentine artists in 22 rooms. Open Tues–Fri 09:00–12:00 and 16:00–19:00; also Sat and Sun 16:00–19:00 Museo Etnográfico y Colonial Juan de Garay (Ethnographic and Colonial Museum), 25 de Mayo 1470. On exhibition are archeological pre-Hispanic items and items excavated at the ruins of Santa Fe La Vieja (Old Santa Fe) near Cayastá. The museum also houses a collection of official records of the years 1635–1852. Open Tues–Fri 09:00–12:00 and 15:30–19:30; Sun 08:30–12:00 and 16:00–19:00 Granja La Esmeralda, Avenida Aristóbulo del Valle 8700, a zoo and agricultural experimental station some 4 km north of the city center. A large area is devoted to local fauna and flora. Take bus 10 bis from the bus terminal

•

•

s Excursions •

Cayastá: Located some 80 km north of Santa Fe, Cayastá is where Santa Fe was originally founded by Juan de Garay in 1573, before relocation in 1651 to its present site. It was re-founded in 1867 by the French count Tessieres Le Bois de Bertrand.

Santa Fe

• •

382

The main item of interest is the archeological site 2 km outside town with the excavated ruin of the San Francisco church. Hernando Arias (known as “Hernandarias”) and his wife Jerónima, daughter of Juan de Garay, were buried in the church and their resting places have been identified. There is a camping ground; nearby is a small nature reserve used as breeding ground for yacarés and loros. Guided tours daily 10:00–12:00 and 14:00–18:00. Information about guided tours can be obtained in Santa Fe @ 4595857 San Javier is located on the banks of the Río San Javier some 156 km north of Santa Fe on RP 1. Originally founded in 1743 as a Jesuit mission to convert the local Moscoví Indians, the modern town was founded in 1884. The parochial church was built in 1879 with the help of the local Moscoví Indians, the descendants of the people who were converted to Christianity a century earlier. It is possible that a church has been on this site continuously since the days of the Jesuits. Of interest is the chapel with a carved image of Christ with Indian features, which points to a Moscoví artist. In the chapel is also a small museum. At the entrance to the village is the Monument to the Moscoví Indian made from red quebracho wood. Some 3 km north of town is a 48 ha area which has been planted not only with trees occurring in the region but also with casuarinas among others Túnel Subfluvial Uranga Silvestre Begnis: This tunnel runs under the Río Paraná, linking Santa Fe with Paraná. This outstanding engineering feat encloses a four-lane highway and was completed in 1969. It is 32 m below the river and 2.4 km long. A toll is charged. Explosives and combustibles cannot be carried through the tunnel: they must be ferried across the river Esperanza, 37 km north-west on RP 70 at the intersection of RP 70 and RP 6; for details see page 362 Guadelupe: A small beach resort 5 km north of the town center. The

SANTA FE restaurants; see “Eating out in Guadalupe” above. Bus 8 takes 20 minutes. For the return trip take bus 16, which follows the costanera for some way

Basilica Nuestra Señora de Guadelupe (Our Lady of Guadalupe Church), José de La Rosa, has beautiful painted glass windows. It is a Catholic shrine and many pilgrims make their way here. Guadalupe has many good and fashionable

VENADO TUERTO

Venado Tuerto Population: 60 000 Postal code: 2600 @ area code: (03462) Distance from Rosario: 164 km south-west on RN 33

L

ocated in the south-western part of the province in the pampa, Venado Tuerto (whose name means “one-eyed deer”!) is a pleasant town with a fine country club at which race meetings and tournaments are held twice a year. It has good tourist facilities including two golf clubs. Laguna Melincué is located 66 km west.

E Eating out •

• • •

Restaurant Almacén Belgrano, Mitre near Belgrano. Seafood

Restaurant La Choza, O. Lagos 125 Restaurant Paprika, Belgrano 666 Restaurant La Tranquera, España 305

C Accommodation in Venado Tuerto Hotels

Riviera, Alvear 799 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Bahu, Marconi near Balcarce AEFGJLPUV ** California, Belgrano 415 AEFGJLPUV ** Del Lago, Azcuénaga 740 AEFGJLPUV ** Mayo, San Martín 201 AEFGJLPUV ** San Marino, H Yrigoyen 1608 AEFGJLPUV ** Santa Fe, Santa Fe 540 AEFGJLPUV ** Touring, Mitre 847 AEFGJLPUV * González, Mitre near Castelli AELPSV * González I, Saavedra 438 AELPSV * Salta, Saavedra 889 ADEGHLPTV * San Luis, O. Lagos 247 AELPV • Colonial, 12 de Octubre 1365 • Italia, Belgrano 2175 • Posta del Sol, Chacabuco 1394 near L. de la Torre

*** **

Accommodation on RN 8 *** **

La Balsa, KM 371 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY El Molino, Marcos Ciani near RN 8 KM 368 AEFGJLPSUV

@ @ @ @

421700 424565 421452 422276

$F $G $G $H

2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

422942 420922 421136 421648 421748 422994 422522 427814 431916 427778

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Accommodation in Elortondo Elortondo is located 33 km east of Venado Tuerto and is the nearest place offering accommodation for visitors to Lago Melincue. • Hotel 9 de Julio, 9 de Julio • Residencial Luisa, San Martín 658

@ @

383

(03462) 470167 (03462) 420027

Venado Tuerto

PAMPA PROVINCES • •

•

Restaurant LaVacaAtada,Rivadavia 518 Confitería Belgrano, Mitre 654

n Entertainment • •

Venado Tuerto Polo Club, Zona Rural @ 421906

s Excursions

•

Base 1 Disco Garden, RN 8 Tío Francis disco, RN 33

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Quintana 851 • Expreso Córdoba Mar del Plata, @ 433824 • T.A. Chevallier @ 421389 runs frequent bus services to Buenos Aires, Rosario, and Córdoba • Autotransporte San Juan Mar del Plata @ 439422

a Sport

Melincué is situated on the northern shore of Lago Melincué about 125 km south-west of Rosario. During colonial times the fort of Melincué was part of a defensive line against the Indians. The lake is fed by thermal springs which are apparently beneficial for some forms of arthritis and rheumatism. There is a colonial church in the locality. T.A. Chevallier runs 1 direct service weekly to Rosario and Venado Tuerto; local transport companies run daily services

Golf Clubs • Jockey Club de Venado Tuerto, Castelli 657 @ 421970

Stopovers

HIGHWAYS AND STOPOVERS

M

ost towns away from the two major population centers have simply sprung up as stopovers for travelers to and from the coastal towns and the interior. As such the province although a major producer of agricultural products is more aptly described as a “transit” province. Thus it is a convenient way to describe these towns off the beaten track using the national and provincial road system as a backdrop. I have used as a starting point Rosario and Santa Fe. It should be noted that the facilities in remote areas are not geared towards the needs of the sophisticated tourist, and those used to more than basic needs should visit only the towns described in detail. The information on remote areas is included for those who wish to explore areas off the beaten track.

Argentina. Tourist facilities and communications are good. I have listed the tourist facilities at Casilda, Firmat, and Chabás. Casilda 55 km west of Rosario on RN 33 near the intersection with RP 92. The Casilda Golf Club is on RN 33 @ (03464) 423143. • Hotel América, V. López 2260 @ (03464)423085 • Hotel Casilda, España 1823 @ (03464)422938 Eating out • Confitería Bartomioli, Maipú 2174 • Comedor de Tito, Casado 1900 • Restaurant La Posta, Bvar. Colón 2770 near RN 33

Rosario to Rufino

RN 33 is a major link to the south-western part of the province and to the Panamericana leading to Mendoza. The area is flat and dotted with small lagunas; it is one of the richest agricultural areas in

Stopovers

384

SANTA FE •

Eating out • Restaurant La Nueva Posta del Sol, Ave. M. Belgrano 1306 Villa Trinidad 239 km north-west of Santa Fe on RP 39. The turnoff from RN 34 is at Arrufó; and from there it is 15 km west. • Residencial Villa Sa, Cristóbal Colón 523 @ (03491)491035 Ceres 277 km north-west of Santa Fe, only 17 km from Selva already in Santiago del Estero Province. • Hotel Colonial, Ave. Chacabuco 254, @ (03491) 420218 • Residencial Alvarez, Ave. De Mayo, @ (03491) 420031 • Hotel Grand Hotel, M. Moreno 650 @ (03491) 421324 • Hostal Reama, Ave. De Mayo 638 @ (0391) 420337 Eating out • Restaurant Bon Appetit, Ave. Mayo 664 • Restaurant La Fuente, Ave. Mayo 753 • Restaurant Don Tito, RN 34. Parrilla

Restaurant Salsa Criolla, Sarmiento 2137. Parrilla

Firmat 54 km south of Casilda and 109 km south-west of Rosario. Buses leave from Bulevar Colón 1321. Casilda SA, @ (03465)423220 and Chevallier SA run frequent daily bus services from Melincué to Firmat (1 2 hour) and thence to Rosario. • Hotel Posta de Juárez, Sarmiento 1111 @ (03465) 423402 Chabás 20 km south of Casilda or 75 km south-west of Rosario. • Hotel Kalapur, Gral Roca 1991 @ (03464) 480129

Rosario to Santa Fe

Parrallel to RN 11 runs the Autopista A008 which now takes most of the heavy traffic; still RN11 is a major highway and one of the busiest in Argentina. The main settlements near the Río Paraná such as San Lorenzo, Barrancas, and Coronda are accessed by link roads. There are good tourist facilities along this route. Barrancas 106 km north of Rosario. • Hotel Italia, Paganini 869 @ (03466) 420204 • Hotel Namuncurá, Paganini 1201 @ (03466) 420937 Coronda 41 km south of Santa Fe. • Hotel Coronda, Sarmiento 1762 @ (0342) 4910141

Rosario to Sastre

RN 178 is a less frequented inland route to Córdoba via San Francisco through the agricultural heartland of the province. North of Cañada de Gómez are wetlands. There are acceptable tourist facilities in Roldán, Cañada de Gómez, Carcarañá, La Parejas, Las Rosas, El Trébol, Carlos Pellegrini, San Jorge, and Sastre. Roldán 25 km west of Rosario. • Hotel Castro, Catamarca 779 @ (0341)4961091 Eating out • Restaurant Don Pepe, Catamarca 662. Parrilla

Rosario to Ceres

RN 34 is the major highway from Rosario to Santiago del Estero Province. Numerous buses ply this route. Rafaela is the best location to have a break along this route; smaller places with tourist facilities are Sunchales, Villa Trinidad, and Ceres. Past Rafaela the facilities taper off somewhat. See Rafaela on page 362.

Cañada de Gómez 87 km west of Rosario. Bus services are provideded by ABLO, San Martín 728 @ (03471) 423113. • Hotel Universal, Schnack 29 @ (3471) 422013 • Hotel Verde Sole, RN 9 KM 377 @ (03471) 423323 • Hotel Gengha, Bvar. Ocampo 520 @ (0347) 423024

Sunchales 40 km north-west of Rafaela. • Hotel Carlos Pellegrini, Pellegrini 397 @ (3493) 420474 • Hotel Hostal del Parque, Ave. H. Yrigoyen 1340 @ (03493) 422693

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PAMPA PROVINCES •

•

Hotel San Cayetano, Urquiza 747 @ (3406) 440446 • Hotel Oitana, H. Yrigoyen 1806 @ (3406) 440011 • Motel Ciento Uno, on the highway. @ (03406) 442192 Eating out • Comedor Parrilla EG3, Ave. Alberdi near RP 13 Sastre 134 km west of Santa Fe. • Hostal Centenario, RP 13 KM 35 @ (3406) 480174

Hospedaje El Puente, RN 9 KM 363 @ (03471) 421557

Eating out • Restaurant Abuela María, Ave. Santa Fe 2550 Carcarañá 44 km west of Rosario. • Hotel El Amanecer, La Plata 1330 @ (0341) 4941172 • Hotel Peñamaria, RN 9 @ (0341) 4941257 Las Parejas 24 km north of Cañada de Gómez and 11 km west of Rosario. • Hotel Piccolini, Calle 20–965 @ (03471 )471635 Las Rosas 51 km north of Cañada de Gómez and 126 km north-west of Rosario. Bus services are provided by ABLO, Maipú 860 @ (03471) 451484. • Hotel El Portal, Libertad near Entre Ríos @ (03471) 451030 • Hotel Lomas, Libertad 619 AFGHLTY @ (03471) 450251 • Motel Eden, RN 178 @ (03471) 451922 Eating out • Restaurante El Roble, Tucumán near RN 178 El Trébol 90 km north of Cañada Gómez and 177 km north-west of Rosario. Eating out • Restaurant Los Tatos, Ave. América 909 Carlos Pellegrini 108 km north of Cañada Gómez and 195 km north-west of Rosario. Bus services are provided by ABLO, General Roca 999 @ (03401) 481048. • Hotel Iguazú, V. López 517 @ (3401) 480162 San Jorge 14 km south of Sastre or 132 km west of Santa Fe. Bus services are provided by ABLO, Lisandro de la Torre @ (03406) 443155. • Hotel Jardín, Ave. Alberdi 249 @ (03406) 441899 • Hotel Monumental SH, Sarmiento 1321 @ (03406) 440022

Stopovers

Santa Fe to the border with Chaco Province

RN 11 is the main highway north to Chaco Province and on to Formosa. The road runs mainly through flat areas, and the landscape gradually changes to chaqueño-type vegetation. There are tourist facilities in Nelson, San Justo, Gobernador Crespo, Vera, and Villa Ocampo. Nelson 43 km north of Santa Fe, about 2 km north of the intersection with RP 4. • Hotel Florida, Sarmiento 248 @ (0342) 4902023 San Justo 90 km north of Santa Fe. • Hotel California, 9 de Julio 2972 @ (03498) 427470 • Hotel España, 1 de Mayo 2427 @ (03498) 427202 • Hotel Los Angeles, Balcarce near RN 11 @ (03498) 427433 • Hotel Parador, KM 568 @ (03498) 427702 Gobernador Crespo 151 km north of Santa Fe. • El Norteño, Juan de Garay near RN 11 KM 620 @ (03498) 480061 Vera 252 km north of Santa Fe. • Hotel Alcazar, San Martín 1953 @ (03483) 421427 • Hotel Zarza, B. Rivadavia 1865 @ (03483) 422204

386

SANTA FE stead of Gato Colorado. Towns with facilities along this route are Nelson, San Cristóbal, Tostado, and Villa Minetti.

Villa Ocampo In the extreme north of the province, 74 km north of Reconquista and 60 km south of the Chaco border. • Hotel Juan de Garay, KM 872 @ (03482) 466753

San Cristóbal 172 km north-west of Santa Fe at the intersection of RP 4, RP 13, and RP 39. • Hotel Central, Belgrano 1048 @ (03408) 422125 • Hotel San Cristóbal, Bvar. San Martín 1159 @ (03408) 324203 Villa Minetti The turnoff from RN 95 to Villa Minetti is located 71 km north of Tostado. • Residencial Togrut, Belgrano @ (03491) 496080 • Residencial San Martín, Santa Fe 576 @ (03491) 496095

Santa Fe to Tostado and Villa Minetti

RP 4/RP 13/RN 95 leads into the north-western region. Leaving Santa Fe follow RN 11 north until the turnoff at Iriondo, where you enter RP 4 west. At San Cristóbal you continue north on RP 2 until Tostado. In Tostado take RN 95 north, which becomes a dirt road after 35 km. It continues north and enters Chaco Province shortly after the home-

387

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388

PATAGONIA PATAGONIA

The whole of the southern “cone” (el cono) of South America, shared by Argentina and Chile, is known as Patagonia. The Argentine portion begins south of the Río Negro–Río Colorado. Away from the coast it is mostly a dry and windswept meseta, with isolated estancias. The biggest population centers lie along the Atlantic coast and the rim of the Andes. Although the harsh climatic conditions impose restrictions on tourism, some of the country’s most important tourist attractions are located here. 389

NEUQUÉN NATAGONIA P Neuquén EUQUÉN

Plate 7 392 393 395 397 398 400 402 403 405 405 406 408 412 413 419 420 421 421 422 425 428 432 436 437 438 439 440

Map of Neuquén Province Aluminé BCDEnJKLSUXYabefs Map Andacollo ACDESbestu Caviahue and Copahue CDEnJKMRSUWYabcesu Map of Copahue Cerro Chapelco BCMRScs Chos Malal BCDELRSUbepqrsv Map Cutral-Có CEMRSp El Huecú CS Junín de los Andes BCDEnJKLMRSUWXYabepqs Map v Neuquén BCDEnJKLMPRSUVWXYaips Map Piedra del Águila BCDEJKSe Map Primeros Pinos CSc Rincón de los Sauces CS San Martín de los Andes BCDEnJKLMRSU#Yacps Map JWXYc^euv Map of the city center Villa La Angostura BCDEnJKLMSUVWX#abceip Map of the Port s Map of the city center Villa Traful BCDES#bes Zapala BCDEnJKLMRSUWXYaepqst Map v

390

NEUQUÉN he province of Neuquén is land-locked. The northern border with Mendoza is formed by the Río Barrancas and the Río Colorado, and in the east and south Lago Nahuel Huapi and the Río Limay form borders with the province of Río Negro. To the west the chain of the Andes forms a natural border with Chile.

T

best reached from San Martín de los Andes • Lago Huechulafquen near the start of the Río Chimehuin, Bahía Tranack • Lago Tromen at the beginning of Río Malleo. It can be reached from Junín de los Andes. This is also a good spot for camping • Río Chimehuin, at the point where it leaves Lago Huechulafquen Volcán Lanín has long been an attraction for mountain climbers. Its snow-topped, almost perfectly shaped cone can be seen from a long distance. This is an area of outstanding beauty. There are extensive forests and, at higher altitudes, glaciers. Recommended for experienced climbers only. Neuquén Province has four skiing regions: • Cerro Chapelco, near San Martín de los Andes • Cerro Bayo, near Villa La Angostura • Primeros Pinos near Zapala

Before the arrival of the Spaniards Neuquén Province was inhabited by warlike Indian peoples. They lived in the valleys, and the names of the mountains, mountain passes, lakes, and rivers are mostly in the Indian language. Neuquén was first colonized in 1551 by Jesuits and Franciscan monks, who had come across from Chile. They established a mission on Lago Nahuel Huapí, but constant attacks by local Indians eventually forced them to leave. The province has an excellent road system. The provincial capital is also called Neuquén, and is situated 1215 km south-west of Buenos Aires. The major attractions of Neuquén Province are the 20 or so lakes in the pre-Andean country, and the ski resorts, which are of world class, some of them in national parks. The four main parks are: Parque Nacional Lanín, Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, Parque Nacional Laguna Blanca, and Parque Nacional Los Arrayanes. Neuquén offers great opportunities for the outdoor enthusiast: mountain climbing and hiking in the national parks, skiing near San Martín de los Andes, on Cerro Chapelco, and, for the fisherman, an abundance of salmon and trout. Some of the best fishing spots are: • Río Paimún, where it drains the Lago Paimún. Lago Paimún can be reached from Junín de los Andes • Lago Epulafquen near the mouth of the Río Escorial. It is

•

Caviahue

Note there are two lakes by the name of Lago Tromen in Neuquén Province: Lago Tromen (north) is located 34 km north of Chos Malal reached on RP 2 and RP 37. Lago Tromen (south) is located in Parque Nacional Lanín near the Chilean border some 53 km north-west of Junín de los Andes, reached on RP 60. Both are in extremely beautiful and interesting areas.

391

Neuquén

PATAGONIA

ALUMINÉ

Aluminé Population: 4200 Postal code: 8345 @ area code: (02942) Altitude: 1260 m Distances From Zapala: 134 km west on RP 13 then south on RP 23 • From Junín de los Andes: 103 km north on RP 23 •

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ocated on the Río Aluminé near the junction with Arroyo Poi Pucón; it is in the heart of pehuenia country—pehuenia is a type of araucaria tree which grows profusely in this area, and whose fruit used to be the staple diet of local Indians. Aluminé is the ideal starting point for hikes through densely forested mountains and lake regions in particular Parque Nacional Lanín. The area west of town is known for its abundant rainfall: up to 6000 mm. The combination of forests, mountains and turbulent brooks cascading down into the lakes together with the homestead weaving skills of the local population attracts a growing number of tourists every year.

Camping on Lago Pulmari 34 km west of Aluminé. Camping on Lago Ñorquinco • ECO Camping Ñorquinco, 52 km west of Aluminé A; open in season only

E Eating out

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B Tourist information •

Dirección de Turismo, Torcuato Modarelli 233 @ 496154/226/149

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D Camping Camping on Lago Aluminé • Camping Lagrimas, RP 13, KM 48; capacity: 20 tents in forested area; electricity

Key to map A C D E F H I P $ T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Public telephone Gendarmería Nacional (Police) Hospital Tourist information Service station Y.P.F. Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén Bus terminal

Aluminé

Restaurant Hostería Nid Car, corner of Benigar and C Joubert Restaurant Katiuska, Ave. R.I.M. 26 Restaurant Hotel Pehuenia, Crouzeilles near RP 23 Restaurant La Posada del Rey, Christian Joubert 312 Restaurant Piu que Quien, Olascoaga near Cuatro de Carabineros

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Disco Eclipse, San Juan Bosco Disco Tequila, Avenida R.I.M. 28 de Infantería 26/844. Bar Disco World Tropic, P. Pobladores 460

3 Accommodation

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7 Tour operators and car rental

1 3 9 4 7

Hostería Nid Car Hostería Aluminé Residencial Kengo

Restaurant La Posada del Rey Restaurant La Terminal

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Amuyen Turismo de Alternativa

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Disco Eclipse, San Juan Bosco

La Unión del Sud Farmacia

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Aluminé

PATAGONIA C Accommodation in Aluminé **

** *

@

496340/8

$H

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@ @

496174 496131

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Hostería Lago Aluminé, on the lakeside near the junction of RP 13 and RP 23 AEFGJLPUV‘ @ 498019 $F Hostería Claro de Luna AELPSV $G

2 2

Hotel Pehuenia, Cruzeilles 100 Hostería Aluminé, Joubert 336 Fax 496347 Hostería Nid Car, Joubert 559

AEFGJLPSUV AEFGJLPSUV AEFLPV

Accommodation on Lago Aluminé ** *

Accommodation in Rahué Rahué is located 17 km south of Rahué at the junction of RP 46 with RP 23 and where Río Aluminé and Río Quillén meet. **

Hostería Quillén, AEFGJLPUV Fax (02942)496129; E-mail: [email protected]

@

496196

$D

2

Accommodation on Lago Moquehue Lago Moquehue is located 70 km north-west of Aluminé reached on RP 11. It is linked to Lago Aluminé by a small channel. A Hospedaje La Bella Durmiente, LP @ 496172 Zapala: @ 02942–421951. Rooms with shared bathrooms are cheaper

I Post and telegraph • • •

For canoeing enthusiasts the trip down the Río Aluminé starting in Villa Pehuenia on the shores of Lago Aluminé is recommended.

Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén, Villegas 292 @ 496130/232

s Excursions Tour operators • Amuyen Turismo de Alternativa, Villegas 348 @ 496368, fax 496215 Excursions • Caravan-cum-camping tour through the pehuenia country. The best starting point is Zapala, following RP 46 through Parque Nacional Laguna Blanca, and then turn into RP 23 further north at Rahué, where the Río Quillén joins the Río Aluminé. From here it continues to Aluminé, then north to the easternmost point of Lago Aluminé, which is the source of the Río Aluminé. Where RP 23 meets RP 13 the circuit turns east, and begins to head back towards Zapala, passing through Primeros Pinos along the way. From here on the road is sealed. The total length of the trip is 300 km, and takes about eight days

The bus stop is on Cuatro de Caballería 139. • Albus, El Petróleo @ 496395 ° San Martín de los Andes ($11.00); 3 weekly ° Zapala ($13.20; 3 hrs); 4 weekly • Aluminé Viajes, Olascoaga 59 @ 496231/376 • La Unión del Sud, Restaurante Nid Car, Aluminé ° San Martín de los Andes ($11.00); 3 weekly ° Zapala ($13.20; 4 hrs); 3 weekly Buses from Lago Moquehue • La Unión del Sud buses depart from Hostería Moquehue

U Motoring

Service station: Y.P.F., J. Ayoso 339

Aluminé

Ruca Hue, Avenida R.I.M 26. Local artesanías

a Sport

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Post office: Correo Argentino, Villegas 203 Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, Cristian Joubert near Modarelli Public telephone, Ave. R.I.M. 26–550

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$F

394

NEUQUÉN •

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Lago Aluminé and Lago Moquehue: These lakes are about 50 and 70 km north of Aluminé respectively. Lago Aluminé stretches over 54 square km. Piñihue and Batea Mahuida are only two of many magnificent mountains in this area; some peaks here are over 2000 meters high. Near the village of La Angostura the two lakes are connected by a river. The water in Lago Moquehue is colder because its source is glacial water high in the cordillera Lago Ñorquinco and Lago Pulmari: Located about 40 km west of Aluminé, reached on RP 23 and RP 11. The mountains around Lago Ñorquinco are covered with forests, and numerous streams make their way down the slopes into the lake. It is the northernmost lake in Parque Nacional Lanín Lago Quillén 44 km west on RP 46 is possibly the most picturesque of the Pehuenia lakes: it lies in the valleys of

•

•

such sheer mountains that it resembles a fiord. You can see Volcán Lanín from here. It is situated in the northern part of the Parque Nacional Lanín Lago Rucachoroi: To reach it take RP 18, which actually finishes at the lake. This lake is also in the northernmost part of Parque Nacional Lanín. The road to it passes through the Campo de Pulmari, where a battle was fought against Indians. There is an Indian reserve, Aigo, on the shores of the lake. The Indians here are expert craftsmen, and make a variety of woven materials, including ponchos In the northern part of Parque Nacional Lanín there are many hiking trails ranging from easy to difficult, all through spectacular mountain scenery. The best known hiking trails are Senda del Arroyo Malalco. The seven kilometers from the park entrance to Laguna Negrais an easy four hours hike both ways

ANDACOLLO

Andacollo Postal code: 8353 @ area code: (02948) Altitude: 1415 m Distance from Chos Malal: 54 km north-west on RN 43

A

ndacollo is located in the upper Río Neuquén valley, where the Río Varvarco and Río Lileo join to form the Río Neuquén in the foothills of the Cordillera del Viento. In the local Indian language, Andacollo means “the best mineral”, a reference to the gold still being found in the rivers and creeks of the surrounding country. The name was coined by miners who came here from northern Chile.

C Accommodation *

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Hostería Sequoya de Clemente, Varvarco 188 near Nahueve AEFLPV @ 494007 $H 2

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Camping Municipal, RP 43 KM 2; capacity 20 tents

s Excursions

Andacollo can serve as a base for further exploration of the Cordillera del Viento. • Volcán Domuyo and Laguna Varvarco Campos : A trip for the

E Eating out • •

La Unión del Sud, Hostería Secuoya, Ave. Nahueve 191 Andacollo ° Neuquén ($27.70) via Chos Malal ($4.00) and Zapala; 1 daily A municipal bus goes to Huingancó

Restaurant A.C.A., Varvarco Restaurant Doña Irma, El Torreón

395

Andacollo

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adventurous. Hiking in this area should only be be undertaken by experienced hikers. Provisions, which can be bought in Chos Malal, and proper equipment, including a tent and sleeping bag, are essential. The best period to visit this area is from November to April Huingancó: A small village 5 km east of Andacollo. Although the surrounding landscape is bare and mountainous, the villagers in Huingancó have planted some 120 000 fir trees on their town and transformed it into a green oasis. For this reason it is called the “garden of the province”. Many of the trees here have virtually been planted between rocks. The villagers are skilled artisans, and produce woven materials and delicious sweets. Nearby is a goldmine which is still operating, and produces 78 grams of gold per cubic meter Las Ovejas: 35 km further up the valley. This village derives its name from the huge flocks of sheep which used to graze around here. The Fiesta de San Sebastián attracts many visitors to Las Ovejas. From Las Ovejas a mountain trail leads to Colo Michi-có, an archeological site with rock paintings. La Unión del Sud runs 2 services weekly to and from Chos Malal (4 hrs) and Zapala (9 hrs) Los Bolillos: 15 km north. These extraordinary natural sculptures were created by wind and erosion Epu-Lauquen: A nature reserve 74 km north-west, near the Chilean border. It has been created to preserve araucanias and other trees which grow in the area, and covers about 7500 ha (18 530 acres). The tree-covered western slopes of the park contrast sharply with the eastern ranges, which are almost bare. At the center of the park are the Epulafquen lakes: blue, crystal clear, and very cold. They contain an abundance of trout, and the fishing is excellent. The best spot is the connecting river between the two lakes. This is a trip for the adventurous and experienced angler only

Andacollo

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396

Río Nahueve: This river has its source in the Epu-Laufquen lakes. There is good fishing for trout, pejerrey, and perch near the village of Nahueve Lagunas Varvarco, Tapia, and Campos: The Varvarco lakes are the source of the Río Varvarco. To reach them take the bus to Las Ovejas. From there it is about 120 km by unsealed road to the lakes. Take RP 54 rather than RP 1. The water of the lakes is clear and cold, and medium-sized trout and perch are plentiful. Be careful though: the banks are rocky and sometimes steep. Some of the peaks around the lakes are snow-covered. Four-wheel drive vehicles are necessary in this area, and hiking is only for the experienced Volcán Domuyo: 80 km north on RP 1. This is the highest point in the Patagonian Andes—just over 4700 meters. The mountain is bare of vegetation and the top is covered with snow all year round. There are also several glaciers in this region. The climate is harsh in winter and even in summer the climate can change abruptly. The attraction of the area is its volcanic activity: there are numerous hot springs, geysers, and fumaroles. Some of the geysers spout as high as 15 m. The temperature of the thermal springs averages 40°C, although one spring has a temperature of 95°C. Los Tachos, Las Olletas, and El Humazo are three of the better-known thermal springs in the area, but there are at least fifteen others. There are no tourist facilities here, but any lack of comfort is more than compensated for by the natural beauty of the gorges and waterfalls. This area is still unspoilt Fortín Guañacos: The ruins of this fort are 30 km south. It was one of many forts erected after the wars of 1882 to protect the Western frontier Cordillera del Viento Este: The best place to start hiking is Tricao Malal, which is 40 km north on RP 2. The Cordillera del Viento starts from Volcán Domuyo and goes due south for 80 km, almost to Chos Malal. The top of the range is fairly flat

NEUQUÉN throughout, and the highest point is about 3000 meters. Strong winds prevent the growth of vegetation, and in

winter the cordillera is completely covered with snow

CAVIAHUE AND COPAHUE

Caviahue and Copahue Postal code: 8349 @ area code: (02948) Altitude: 1650 m Distance from Neuquén: 352 km west on RN 22, then RP 23 and RP 70 (via Loncopue)

C

aviahue is a developing ski resort, in the Volcán Copahue area, near the Chilean border. The slopes bear stands of araucaria trees which sets it apart from the more volcanic, barren aspect of Copahue. Caviahue is becoming better known as a ski resort, but has a summer season also. There are some 12 000 ha (29 650 acres) of undulating country, interspersed with large flat areas, available for skiing. The terrain is very suitable for langlauf, or Nordic skiing. The skiing season starts in July and finishes in October. There are two skilifts. Copahue is located in the Reserva Nacional Copahue, 18 km north-west of Caviahue close to the Chilean border. The name itself is Araucanian for “sulfur place”. The town lies in a horseshoe-shaped valley formed by glacial erosion, with the open end of the horseshoe facing east. The high altitude (1980 m) makes this a bleak place, and the only real attractions are the thermal springs and Volcán Copahue, 2980 m. The resort is open from late November to April, but closed throughout winter. To get to Copahue take RN 22 via Zapala, Las Lajas, and Loncopue. The bus companies serving Caviahue also go to Copahue. The numerous thermal springs here are reputed to have excellent medicinal properties. This, and the high altitude, make it an ideal place if you suffer from arthritis, indigestion, or skin or nervous disorders.

The water in the springs can reach 90°C (220°F). The thermal springs were known to the Indian population long before the arrival of Europeans. Havestadt was the first European to bring out word of their existence in 1752. Then in 1865 Dr Ortíz Vélez received permission from Cacique Chenquel to inspect them. In 1887 the local Indians were subjugated by Colonel Olascoaga, and it became possible to study the springs without fear of harassment. The first to do this scientifically were Dr Paul Groeber and Professor H Corti. The largest and most spectacular thermal springs are right in Copahue itself, on Calle Chenquel. Others worth visiting are Laguna Sulfurosa, Laguna Verde and Laguna Verde II, and Laguna del Chancho, which is a good place for mud-baths. The green color in some of the lagunas is caused by algae.

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Caviahue and Copahue

PATAGONIA Eating out in Copahue • Restaurant Codihué, Dr. Ortíz Vélez • Restaurant Copahue

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There is also a convention center. Horse riding • Cabalgatas Caviahue • Patagonia Norte Travesía, Bungalow #3 Alpino @ 495122 Hire of ski equipment • Ciervo Rojo, Las Lengas 16 • Producer S.R.L. Bungalow 5 @ 495113 (motorized skis) Services in Copahue • Medical consultation: $25.00 • Admission to baths: $10–$15

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The airstrip is located east of Lago Caviahue; only usable in summer. • TANSE Ortíz Vélez @ 495072

3 Accommodation 1 2 3

Hotel Termas Hotel Santa Mónica Hotel Copahue

S Buses

Buses run from both Caviahue and Copahue • El Petróleo, Ortíz Vélez @ 495003 • Centenario @ 495024 ° To Neuquén (7 hrs, 20.90) Zapala (4 hrs, $11.00) and Las Lajas (2 hrs) 2 services daily during tourist seasons

Bring warm clothes with you as the temperature can drop suddenly, and even snowstorms are not unknown in the middle of summer.

B Tourist information •

Municipalidad de CaviahueCopahue @ 495036 fax; Web site: www.caviahue-copahue.com.ar

U Motoring

•

Service station: A.C.A. Motoring in Copahue The 69 km stretch of RP 70 along Lago Caviahue is now sealed. Heavy snow falls in winter may cut the road temporarily.There is only a walking trail to Chile over the Paso Copahue, at an altitude of 1996 m. The Chileans call it Paso Pucón Mahuida.

D Camping •

Camping Hueney, on access road to air strip @ 495041; capacity 50 tents

E Eating out • • •

Disco El Galpón in Convention Center

Restaurant La Reforma in Club Andino Caviahue Restaurant Doña Vicenta Restaurant Refugio Cota 1800 m

Caviahue and Copahue

398

NEUQUÉN C Accommodation in Caviahue and Copahue Accommodation in Caviahue *** *** *** **** ***

Hotel Caviahue Ski, 8 de Abril

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

@ Hotel Caviahue I.S.S.N, 8 de Abril ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Cabaña Caviahue Ski, 8 de Abril ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Apart Hotel Farallón, Caviahue base, ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ Apart Hotel Lago Caviahue, Ave. Costanera Quimey- Co ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @

$D/E 2 495064/495121 fax 495044/69 fax $F/G 2 495032/495052 $C/D 6 495062/495118 $D

495048/61

$C/D 2

Accommodation in Copahue These hotels are only open from November to April.

Club Hotel Valle del Volcán, Herrero Ducloux 120 @ Open Sept–May ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ ** Hotel Copahue, Cacique Cheuquel near Bercovich AEFGJLPUV @ ** Hotel Termas, H. Ducloux. AEFGJLPUV Reservations in Zapala: @ 02942–495045/057 * Hotel Santa Mónica, Arturo Fernández 125 AELPV @ A Residencial Codihué, Dr. Ortiz Vélez LP @ A Residencial El Dandy, LP @ ** Hostería Pino Azul, H. Ducloux near Olascoaga AEFGJLPUV @ *** Hostería Hualcupen, Olascoaga ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ * Hostería La Cabañita, H. Ducloux near Olascoaga AELPV @ • Cabañas Sturze @

****

•

2

495110

495051/495117 fax

495012 495031 495056 495071 495046/49 495023/59 495056

and Laguna Hualcupen. Trout of 3 kg are common. There are no fish in the upper section of the Río Agrio because of the sulfur carried into it by thermal springs coming from Volcán Copahue. The best fishing spots on Laguna Trolope, Laguna Achacosa, and Laguna Rincón are all on private property.

Service station: A.C.A. with camping ground

Y Shopping

So close is Copahue to the Chilean border that neighboring Chileans hold a market here in Calle Dr Herrero Ducioux three times each week. They call it the Fería de Chile, and it is a good place to buy woven materials such as blankets and ponchos.

s Excursions Tour operators • Caviahue Tours, Head office: Buenos Aires (1004), San Martín 683 @ 43123419 fax; e-mail: [email protected]. They have special arrangements between November 15 and April 30. Charter buses and charter flights to and from Buenos Aires, to and from Neuquén. In Caviahue/Copahue they organize day trips, trekking 4WD excursions and excursions on horseback. Fishing trips to Laguna Trolope in 4WD vehicle; cost $50.00

a Sport

Club Andino Caviahue, @ 495081 runs two skiing schools, one in alpine skiing, and one in langlauf skiing. The snow is dry powder, one meter deep at the base. There are cross-country ski runs of 10, 30, and 60 km, and an alpine run with a 350 m drop and a 20° slope. Capacity of ski lifts: 2000 skiers per hour; lift tickets: $15.00–$30.00 daily Sport in Copahue There is good fishing in the Río Trolope, about 11 km north, the Río Hualcupen

399

Caviahue and Copahue

PATAGONIA •

visiting Mapuche families; cost $50.00 Excursions • Reserva Nacional Copahue: The national park is a good place for extended hikes on mountain trails. The Reserva Nacional Copahue was established in 1940. It covers 400 square km and is roughly square. Along its border with Chile are four passes over 2000 m high • Río Agrio falls: 20 km • Río Trolope valley and Laguna Trolope • Los Pinos, and the Arroyo Blanco falls • Lagunas de Chancho-Có and Trapa Trapa valley: These are in Chile and can be reached via mountain trails. The 8 km trip takes 2 hrs–3 hrs

Cerro Chapelco Postal code: 8370

C

•

At Las Maquinas near the banks of Arroyo Blanco, there is a small laguna with many geysers and blow-holes. These spout regularly and it is a good place to see volcanic activity. Las Maquinitas, also on the banks of the Arroyo Blanco, has some geysers as well Volcán Copahue The trail follows Arroyo Blanco and passes the Lagunas Las Mellizas. The climb is about 1000 m, and along the way you have magnificent views of Lago Caviahue, Lagunas Las Mellizas and Volcán Villarrica in Chile. The last 200 m from Los Baños are fairly steep. You should be reasonably fit to attempt this walk

CERRO CHAPELCO

erro Chapelco is Neuquén Province’s top winter resort, located some 20 km uphill from San Martín de los Andes.

The ski resort now has 12 ski–lifts with a carrying capacity of nearly 12 000 skiers per hour and 29 ski runs, making it one of the major ski resorts in South America. The skiing season opens in the middle of June and continues up to the middle of October. Cerro Chapelco is situated in the Chapelco chain which extends in a north–south direction for 40 km between Lago Lácar and Río Caleufu. Neuquén is 440 km south-west of here, via RN 234. Continue from San Martín on RN 234 for 12 km until you reach the junction with RP 19. A further 8 km along RP 19 brings you to the base of the Chapelco skiing region. This is the route you must take going uphill, but the return trip takes the old Cerro Chapelco

RP 19 which is only 16 km and is one-way. The road is kept free of snow by the roads department. During the skiing season local tour operators run regular bus services between San Martín and the snow-fields. There are also bus services in summer. Skiing equipment can be bought or hired either in San Martín or at Cerro Chapelco. The local skiing club is the Club Andino San Martín de los Andes (known as CASMA). Visitors can stay in the Hotel Sol de los Andes, which overlooks San Martín. It has 270 beds and is expensive, but also popular—booking is recommended here. There is more choice when it comes to restaurants: there are four 400

NEUQUÉN carry 719 skiers per hour. The ride takes four minutes • Petro Hue: The lower baby lift for beginners. It starts at 1250 m and goes up to 1300 m. It is 400 m long, and can carry 800 skiers per hour. The ride takes three minutes • Pire Lil: A poma lift which starts at 1708 m and ascends to 1970 m. It is 940 m long, and can carry 800 skiers per hour. A five-minute trip • Cable car: This starts from the base at 1250 m and goes up to 1600 m. It takes five minutes to do the 1775 m trip. Each car takes six persons, and the system can transport 1800 skiers per hour The longest ski run is 3800 m, and the total area available for skiing is 120 hectares. The snow season lasts from June 20 to October 15. On average there is 40 cm of snow at the base and 1.5 m at 1000 m. The snow is dry powder of excellent quality. The inclination of the slopes varies between 10° and 45°. The snow-fields up to 1750 m are suitable for beginning and intermediate skiers, but only advanced skiers should venture beyond this altitude. The European ski instructors where appropriate have modified their methods to suit local conditions. Mono-skiing is one of the newer techniques being taught. You can hire the mono-skis, and any other skiing equipment, in Cerro Chapelco.

restaurants in Cerro Chapelco itself, and about 70 restaurants and cafés in San Martín. An efficient system of lifts and cable cars has been installed at Cerro Chapelco, and skiers should not experience undue delays in getting to the ski runs. The system has the capacity to move 12 000 persons per day, on twelve installations: Five chair lifts, four teleskis, a cable car and two baby teleskis: • Antuhue: A double chair lift which ascends from 1600 m to 1670 m. It is 400 m long, and can carry 1200 skiers per hour. A six-minute ride • Culache: A triple chair lift which starts at 1250 m and reaches 1335 m. It is 450 m long, and can carry 1200 skiers per hour. The ride takes five minutes • Rayen Lemu: A double chair lift which starts at 1350 m and climbs to 1740 m. It is 1750 m long, and can carry 832 persons per hour. The trip to the top takes 20 minutes • Epuche: A T-bar lift starts at 1600 m and goes up to 1720 m. It is 650 m long, and can carry 1200 skiers per hour. The ride takes three minutes • Graeff: A T–bar lift. It starts at 1595 m and goes up to 1720 m. It is 640 m long and can carry 1400 skiers per hour • Del Mallín: A T–bar lift starts at 1670 m and goes up to 1970 m and can carry 1400 skiers per hour • A further new T–bar lift starts at 1700 m and goes up to 1840 m. It is 460 m long and can carry 1200 skiers per hour • Palito: The upper baby lift. It starts at 1730 m and goes up to 1830 m. It is 330 m long, and can

B Tourist information

•

401

Secretaría Municipal de Turismo, @427347 fax 427695

Cerro Chapelco

PATAGONIA E Eating out

des. Air services are provided by TAN and L.A.D.E.

Restaurants • Antu–Lauquen, altitude 1600 m • Base • Los Techos • Pradera del Pluma • Rancho de Manolo, altitude 1420 m • Refugio Graeff, altitude 1720 m

S Buses

There are regular buses running direct from San Martín de los Andes to Neuquén, Bariloche, and Buenos Aires.

s Excursions

•

M Services and facilities • • • •

Daily ski-lift ticket $35.00 Weekly ski-lift ticket $195.00 Hire of skiing gear (alpine) $15.00 a day Hire of skiing gear (Nordic) $10.00 a day

Lago Lácar and San Martín de los Andes are close by. See San Martín de los Andes on page 422

R Air services

The airstrip is 10 km from San Martín, halfway on the road to Junín de los An-

CHOS MALAL

Chos Malal Population: 11 000 Postal code: 8353 @ area code: (02948) Altitude: 866 m Distance from Zapala: 193 km north on RN 40

S

ituated in the extreme north-west of the province on the Río Curri Leuvu (the upper reaches of the Río Neuquén), Chos Malal was founded in 1887 as a military fort, and was the provincial capital until 1904. Today it still retains the charm of a frontier town.

C Accommodation in Chos Malal **

Hotel de Turismo Chos Malal, General San Martín 71 near Sarmiento AEFGJLPUV @ 422472

Hosterías

El Torreón, 25 de Mayo 137 near Lavalle AELPV • Picún Ruca, 25 de Mayo 1271 • La Farfalla, Salta near Islas Malvinas

*

Residenciales A • • •

Baalbak, 25 de Mayo 920 LP Kallfu Kuyen, Jujuy 60 Anlu, Lavalle 60 Lemus, Lavalle near 25 de Mayo

Accommodation in Tricao Malal A Residencial Tricao Malal

Chos Malal

LP

402

@ @ @

421141 421585 fax 421724 421349 fax

@ @ @ @

421495 fax 421263 422628 421133

@

421739

NEUQUÉN To Mendoza

4 DE AGOSTO

40

N

CORRIENTES

43

To Andacollo

GENERAL JUSTO 1

RIVADAVIA

To Zapala

2

P

GENERAL PAZ E

D

F

40

9 DE JULIO

OLASCOAGA

URQUIZA A .P. TIS SERA

LAMADRID

LAVALLE

A

ROCA

C

SANTA CRUZ

$

SARMIENTO

MITRE

BELGRANO

SAN MARTÍN

5

4

MENDOZA

SALTA

8

ENTRE RÍOS

VILLEGAS

$

JUJUY

CHUBUT

7

I

GARDIN

6

MORENO

AVE. 25 DE MAYO

SOBERANÍA

Río Curi Leuvu

3

9

AVE. ESTANISLAO FLORES

H

ISLAS MALVINAS

CHOS MALAL Key to map A C D E F H I P $

Iglesia María Auxiliadora Municipalidad (Town hall) Encotesa Telefónica Argentina Gendarmería Nacional (Police) Hospital Zonal Tourist information Service station Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén

LA PLATA

3 Accommodation 1 6 8 9

Camping Municipal Hotel Chos Malal Residencial Kallfu Kuyen Residencial Baalback

5 Entertainment 4

9 Sights 7

4 Eating out 2 3

Restaurant Caicallen Club Caza y Pesca

Casa de la Cultura Museo Histórico Provincial “Coronel Manuel Olascoaga”

0 Services 5

Banco de la Nación

B Tourist information

The restored Fortín de la IV Division is now the Museo Histórico Olascoaga. Also included here is Tricao Malal, a small village 46 m north on RP 2.

•

Delegación Turismo Norte, Ave. 25 de Mayo @ 421425

D Camping

•

403

Camping Municipal, Rivadavia near General Justo; capacity 80 tents

Chos Malal

PATAGONIA E Eating out • • • •

s Excursions

•

Restaurant Chos Malal, San Martín 89 Restaurant Bahía Cafe, corner of Sarmiento and Urquiza. Café Restaurant Caicallen, General Paz 345. Café Cafetería El Torreón, 25 de Mayo 137. Snack-bar

n Entertainment •

Casa de Cultura, Sarmiento near San Martín

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office, Encotesa, General Paz near Urquiza Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, 25 de Mayo 384

L Financial • •

Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén, 25 de Mayo Banco de la Nación, Sarmiento near Urquiza

•

R Air services •

TANSA, Sarmiento near Mitre @ 421114 has two services weekly to Neuquén (1 hour) and Mendoza (2 hrs)

S Buses •

La Unión del Sud, T.A.C. ° To Neuquén ($24.20) via Zapala ($15.40; 5 hrs, ); 2 daily ° Las Ovejas; 2 weekly

U Motoring

RN 40 leading north is largely unsealed.

a Sport •

Fishing: Club Caza y Pesca Epulaufquen, San Martín near General Paz

•

p Sightseeing •

•

Museo Histórico Provincial “Coronel Manuel Olascoaga” (Colonel Manuel Olascoaga Provincial Historical Museum). On exhibit are personal items of the Colonel who was also first provincial governor Antigua Casa de Gobierno (Old House of Assembly)

Chos Malal

404

Reserva Provincial Tromen: 40 km north. Lago Tromen is at the center of the park. To get there from Chos Malal take RN 40 for 6 km, and then head north on RP 2. Follow RP 2 until Chapuá, then take the 20 km track which leads to the reserve. Part of Volcán Tromen (3980 m) lies within the boundaries of the park and its imposing outline dominates the whole area. This volcano features colorful rock formations, and, further down towards its base, rivers of solidified lava. Lago Tromen has no fish because sulfur is washed down from the surrounding volcanic rocks, making the water uninhabitable. The reserve was created to protect local bird-life, in particular the black-necked swan and the migrating flamingo Andacollo and the upper Río Neuquén valley: Located 58 km north-west, in the foothills of the Cordillera del Viento. First take RP 43, then RP 1. The Río Neuquén is muddy for most of the year owing to the sediment it brings down from the Andes and Volcán Domuyo. This is a gold-mining area, and the local population still makes its living from prospecting, using water-driven crushing mills and washing installations. The climate is harsh even in summer, and it is essential to bring warm, protective clothing to guard against sudden changes in the weather. This is good bush walking country for those with experience and a sense of adventure. See Andacollo on page 395 for facilities El Cholar and the valley of the Río Trocoman: 60 km west on RP 6. El Cholar nestles in a valley surrounded by high peaks. A fishing trip to Vilú Mallín on the Río Trocoman is recommended. The bumpy 15 km journey is worth it: this mountain stream is crystal-clear and teeming with trout and perch

NEUQUÉN

CUTRAL-CÓ

Cutral-Có Population: 37 000 Postal code: 8322 @ area code: (0299) Distance from Neuquén: 109 km west on RN 22

C

utral-Có and its sister town Plaza Huincul are the center of oil and natural gas production in Neuquén Province.

C Accommodation

•

Accommodation in Cutral-Có *** Hotel Alfa, Sáenz Peña near Alem ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 461119 $F 2 ** Hotel Totorici, Avenida Olascoaga near Di Paola AEFGJLPSUV @ 463730 $F 2 * Hotel FB, Irigoyen 545 AELPV @ 461345 $H 2 Accommodation in Plaza Huincul * Hostería Tunquelén, J.B. Alberdi AELPSV @ 463423 $H 1

S Buses

The bus terminal is in Elordi 170. • Centenario, La Unión del Sud, El Petróleo. T.A. Chevallier, El Valle • El Cóndor @ 4963131 • Agencia Dabel, Avenida San Martín 223 @ 465498 ° To Neuquén and Zapala 10 services daily; to Junín and San Martín de los Andes 3–4 services daily Buses from Plaza Huincul La Unión del Sud departs from Restaurante Plaza Huincul.

E Eating out Eating out in Cutral-Có • Restaurant Centro de Comercio, Roca 416. Parrilla Eating out in Plaza Huincul • Restaurant La Rueda, J.B. Alberdi 1591. Parrilla • Restaurant Un Lugar, Avenida San Martín 323

p Sightseeing

•

Museo Municipal “Fermín Godoy Díaz” (Fermín Godoy Díaz Municipal Museum), Sarmiento 149. Archeological exhibition and local history Sightseeing in Plaza Huincul • Museo Municipal “Carmen Funes” (Carmen Funes Municipal Museum), Avenida San Martín 822. Mineralogy and history of the region; also paleontology

M Services and facilities •

L.A.D.E., H. Yrigoyen 433 @ 461484 (Cutral Co)

Laundromat: Laverap, Avenida del Trabajo 709

R Air services

Aéropuerto Cutral-Có is located, 2 km from town.

EL HUECÚ

El Huecú Postal code: 8349 @ area code: (02948) Altitude: 1700 m Distance from Chos Malal: 93 km south-west on RP 26 then RP 23

405

El Huecú

PATAGONIA

E

l Huecú, altitude 1700 m, is located on RP 23 in the northern part of the province. The Indians who lived here originally put up fierce resistance to the intrusion by the Europeans. Nearby is the battlefield of Cerro de la Batería, the site of one such clash.

C Accommodation *

S Buses

•

Hostería El Huecú, RP 23 AEFLPV @ 491035

La Unión del Sud, El Petróleo Zapala ($12.10; 5 hrs ); 4 weekly ° Loncopué (2 hrs) and Las Lajas ° (3 hrs); 2 weekly

JUNÍN DE LOS ANDES

Junín de los Andes Population: 8200 Postal code: 8371 @ area code: (02972) Altitude: 773 m Distances From San Martín de los Andes: 41 km north-east on RN 234 • From Zapala: 199 km south-west on RN 40 •

J

unín de los Andes is located on the Río Chimehuin, nestling between mountains and lakes. The township was originally a fort built in 1883. In 1892 the Salesian order arrived as missionaries to the Indians. Nowadays it is the center of a cattle-raising district, and the pathway to the northern lakes region of the province. This area is famous for excellent trout fishing. The lakes area to the west and north is still inhabited largely by Mapuche Indians: indeed the township has a large Mapuche population. On the road to Puerto Canoa you pass through several Mapuche villages inside the Parque Nacional Lanín. This whole area is dominated by this almost perfect cone-shaped volcano with its perpetual snow cover on the top. •

Many beautiful areas have no accommodation other than camping grounds, some of them rather rustic. Under this section I have included camping grounds along RP 60 to Lago Tromen, RP 62 to Curruhué, Termas de Epulafquen and Paso Carirriñe and the area around Lago Huechulafquen and Lago Paimún, indicating distances from Junín de los Andes.

C Camping

• •

Secretaría de Turismo Municipal, also Parques Nacionales, P Milanesio 560 near Coronel Suárez, opposite the Plaza @ 491160 fax 491296

Junín de los Andes

Camping La Isla, Ginés Ponte near Río Chimehuin @ 491461 Camping Mallín Laura, Ginés Ponte near Río Chimehuin @ 491149

Camping along RP 60 • Lago Tromen, no facilities; 68 km Camping along RP 61 • Bahía Cañicul, some facilities; 38 km • Puerto Canoa, 56 km • Lafquén Có, some facilities; 54 km

B Tourist information •

Club Andino Junín de los Andes, O’Higgins 369 @ 491637, e-mail: [email protected]. Contact: Sr. Eduardo Greco

406

NEUQUÉN C Accommodation in Junín de los Andes Hotels ** ** *

Alejandro I, RN 234 AEFGJLPUV San Jorge, Chacra 54 AEFGJLPUV Chimehuin, 25 de Mayo 650 near Suárez AELPV

@ @

491184 491147

$G $F

2 2

@

491132

$G

2

@ @ @

491419 491155 491569/87

$D

2

@ @

491129 491175

$G $H

2 2

@ @ @

491337 fax 491255 fax 491255 fax

$F $E $E

6 4 4

@

491419 fax

$F/G

1

$D

4

Hosterías *** * *

Quillahue, RN 234 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 491278 El Montañés, San Martín 555 AELPV Posada Pehuén, Coronel Suárez 560 AELPV

Residenciales

A El Cedro, Lamadrid 409 A Marisa, J. M. de Rosas 360

LP LP

Cabañas *** *** ***

Complejo Mamá Rosa, C. Suárez 347 ABCDEFGJKLPTUVY De la Luna, J.M. de Rosas 1092 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY del Sol ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

Accommodation on RN 234 West near Airport • Hostería Quillahue E-mail: [email protected]

AFS

Accommodation in Valle San Cabao ***

Cabañas Spring Creek Lodge, on RP 61 to Lago Huechulafquen KM 8 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 491286 fax

Accommodation on Lago Paimún Lago Paimún is located 53 km west of Junín surrounded by high mountains. ***

Hostería Paimún, Full board; open December–April

@

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

491201

$E

1

Accommodation on RP 60 near Paso Tromen Paso Tromen is located 54 km west of Junín in splendid mountain scenery. This is a major road connection to Temuco in Chile. ***

Hostería San Huberto,Río Malleo Full board; open December–April

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

@

491238

$D

1

Accommodation in Puerto Canoa Puerto Canoa is located on Lago Huechulafquen 61 km west of Junín in the shade of Volcán Lanín in Parque Nacional Lanín. The national parks service and army maintain several refuges in the Volcán Lanín area. Hostería Refugio del Pescador, AELPV @ 491132 • Hostería Huechulafquen @ (02972)426075; e-mail: [email protected] • Refugio Paimún, 51 2 hrs walk from Puerto Canoa on a mountain trail (hard) • Refugio Pared Sur, 7 hrs walk from Puerto Canoa on a mountain trail (hard)

*

$D/E 2

E Eating out

Camping along RP 62 This area is particularly recommended for its wild beauty. • Curruhué Grande, no facilities; 54 km • Laguna Verde, no facilities; 55 km • Termas de Epulafquen, some facilities and hot springs; 68 km

• • • • •

407

Pizzería Roble Bar, G. Ponte 330 Pizzería Como, P. Milanesio 465 Restaurant Centro de Turismo, P Milanesio 568 Restaurant Ravese’s, San Martín 525 Restaurant Ruca Hueney, P Milanesio 641 Junín de los Andes

PATAGONIA 1

NAMUNCURÁ

To San Martín de los Andes

N

EVA DUARTE SARMIENTO

2

To Neuquén

P. ILLERA

E. SERRANO

3

J. ITURRA

MENDOZA CNEL SUÁREZ

AVE. ANTÁRTIDA ARGENTINA

ISLAS MALVINAS GINES PONTE

CÓRDOBA

BELGRANO

FELIX SAN MARTÍN

CHACO

NECOCHEA

LOLOG

5

PATAGONIA

CHILE

OLAVARRÍA

LAMADRID

L .VICUÑA

VILLARINO

4

LONQUIMAY

BVAR J. MANUEL DE ROSAS

T 6 O'HIGGINS

7

12 11 8 9 10 $

A .CACACE SAN MARTÍN

13 14 16

15 19 20

P. MILANESIO

G.A .M. 6

DON BOSCO

R.I.M. 26

I

22 18

17

21

E

A

C

24 23 25

D

26

J. NOGUEIRA

25 DE MAYO 27 28

R ío C h

im e h u

in

JUNÍN DE LOS ANDES • • • • •

n Entertainment

Restaurant La Tablita, República de Chile 206 Restaurant Los Tres Hermanos, P Milanesio 330 Restaurant Nicolás Parrilla, C. Suárez 559 Cafetería Ideal, Lamadrid 250 Querido Luco Pub, C. Suárez 445

Junín de los Andes

• • •

408

Carol Club Tropical, Coronel Suárez 563. Dancing Le Doc, Boulevard Antártida Argentina 25. Dancing Disco Winners, Avenida Argentina near Rosas

NEUQUÉN Key to map A C D E H I $ T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica de Argentina Hospital Secretaría de Turismo Municipal Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 4 5 8 9 21 26

Hotel San Jorge Cabañas De la Luna Residencial Marisa Complejo Mamá Rosa Hostería El Montañés Residencial El Cedro Hostería Posada Pehuén

27 Camping 28 Hotel Chimehuin

25 Carol Club Tropical. dancing

4 Eating out

7 Tour operators

10 11 12 13 15 16 20

Restaurant Ravese’s Cafetería Ideal Restaurant La Tablita Pizzería Roble Bar Restaurant Ruca Hueney Pizzería Como Restaurant Centro de Turismo 22 Restaurant Los Tres Hermanos 24 Restaurant Nicolás Parrilla

5 Entertainment

•

•

• •

0 Services 2 6

Fly Shop S.T.H. Club Andino Junín de los Andes 7 Nobbis Fotografía 14 Laverap Pehuén 19 Club Andino Junín de los Andes

Fishing in the lakes Fishing excursions are organised by several hosterías (Posada Pehuén, Hostería Huechulafquen, Puerto Canoa) and private persons • Club Andino Junín de los Andes, P. Milanesio 568. Information about mountain hikes and hire of equipment • Daniel Nordahl Olsen, Antártida Argentina 230 @ 491255 fax; also rafting • Moscas Junín, Cnel Suárez 169 Hunting There are many stags and red deer in this area. The hunting season starts on March 10. Pumas and wild boars can be found in the more remote mountain areas.

Andina Intern. Cambio, P. Milanesio 570 Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén, San Martín near Lamadrid @ 491164

M Services •

23 Museo Mapuche

a Sport

Post office: Correo Argentino, Don Bosco corner of Suárez Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Suárez 450 near Don Bosco

L Financial •

9 Sights

3 Le Doc. Dancing 17 Querido Luco Pub

I Post and telegraph •

18 Tromen Turismo

Fishing and camping gear: Fly Shop S.T.H., Pedro Illeira 378 Laundromat; Laverap Pehuén, G. Ponte 340 Photographic: Nobbis Fotografía, G. Ponte 211

p Sightseeing

R Air services

Aeropuerto Carlos Campos • Austral, Paseo de los Artesanos • TAN–VASP, L.A.D.E.

• •

U Motoring

s Excursions

•

Service station: Y.P.F., corner of Necochea and Manuel de Rosas (take the Zapala exit)

Tour operators • Alquimia/Tromen Turismo, Paseo Artesanal local C @ 491355; e-mail: [email protected] ° Trekking Parque Nacional Lanín, with no hard climbs; 3 days/2 nights $150.00 per person ° Excursion Lago Paimún to Termas de Lahuenco; 2 days/1 night $140.00 per person

Y Shopping • •

Museo Mapuche, G. Ponte 540 Museo Privado de don Moisés, Cnel Suárez 311

Artesanías Neuquén, Cacace near Río Negro. Silver, wood carvings Artesanías J.J., Islas Malvinas 265

409

Junín de los Andes

PATAGONIA S Buses from Junín de los Andes

The bus terminal is in Olavarría near Félix de San Martín corner of Suárez and Milanesio, just around the corner from the tourist office. From Junín de los Andes it is possible to travel to Chile with Empresa Transportes Igi-Laimi. See “Excursions” below. Bus companies • Albus @ 491713 • T.A. Chevallier, @ 491713 • Centenario S.R.L. @ 491030 ° Lago Huechulafquen; 2 daily ° Villa La Angostura; 3 weekly ° Neuquén ($22.00; 6 hrs); 1 daily ° Zapala($17.60; 31 2 hrs); 1 daily • El Petróleo, @ 491713 ° Aluminé; 1 weekly ° San Martín de los Andes (1 2 hr; $3.00) 4 daily ° Neuquén ($22.00; 6 hrs); 1 daily ° Zapala ($17.60; 31 2 hrs); 1 daily • El Valle, @ 491713 • Igi Llaima, San Martín • La Puntual, ° Aluminé; 3 weekly • Empresa Ko Ko also operates a service from Junín de los Andes to Aluminé each Tuesday. The bus leaves at 09:00 and costs $11.00. You pass an Indian reservation on the way. It also has services in summer to Bariloche via the scenic Siete Lagos (Seven Lakes) route • La Unión del Sud ° Neuquén ($25.00) via La Rinconada and Zapala; 1 daily ° San Martín de los Andes ($3.00; 1 2 hour) 3 daily ° Villa La Angostura ($12.00, 5 hrs); 3 weekly • T.A.C., @ 491861 • TUS @ 491713 • Via Bariloche, @ 491713 Long-distance services Destination Fare Bahía Blanca Bariloche $19.00 Buenos Aires $80.00 Valle, Córdoba $70.00 Mendoza Santa Rosa (la Pampa) Temuco (Chile) Temuco Via Paso Tromen

• • • • • • • •

Services 1 daily 5 daily 1 daily

Duration Company La Estrella/La Puntual, El Petróleo 3 hrs Transportes Ko-ko 22 hrs T.A. Chevallier, Centenario, El T.A.C. 12 hrs TUS/TUP Andesmar, T.A.C. TUS/TUP Buses Jac, Igi Llaima Empresa San Martín

°

• •

Excursions • Empresa Transportes Igi-Laimi and San Martín run buses to Chile via Villarrica, Temuco, Osorno, and Puerto Montt. En route you negotiate Paso Tromen, also known as Paso Mamuil Malal, and skirt Lago Tromen (south) while still on RP 60. This route is less developed than that

Climbing Volcán Lanín; 2 days/1 night $170.00 per person ° Rafting Río Aluminé; 1 day $60.00 per person Club Andino Junín de los Andes Confluencia Malleo, Pasaje 2 de Abril 529 @ 491260

Junín de los Andes

410

NEUQUÉN

•

•

via Puyehue, and closes during heavy rain or snow. Parts of it are narrow and steep. It is 64 km from Junín de los Andes to the pass, and the Argentine checkpoint is right at the pass. The Chilean checkpoint is at Puesco, some 16 km further on. There is an international bus, but officially it will only pick up passengers at Paso Tromen at departure time; sometimes it will allow travelers to board at the customs checkpoint at Puesco, but this is at the discretion of the driver. From the border it is 45 km to Currahue. There are several buses a day from Currahue to Pucón (departing 08:00 and 14:00). On the Chilean side of the border is Parque Nacional Villarrica. You can camp here but bring your own food. Hitch hiking over the Paso Tromen is difficult. See also the companion volume Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island “Region IX de la Araucania” Lago Huechulafquen, in the Parque Nacional Lanín: 20 km north-west on RP 63 (Ruta “h”). The lake has many small bays and inlets, while Volcán Lanín towers over the northern shore. In the far west of the lake is a narrow stretch of water, called “La Unión”, which forms a passageway between Lago Paimún and Lago Huechulafquen. This area is of interest historically as it was the site of bloody running battles between Argentine troops and Indians. Some 55 km from Junín at Puerto Canoa is Hostería Huechulafquen. Also at Puerto Canoa you have the opportunity to navigate Lago Huechulafquen and the adjoining Lago Epulafquen. Catamarán José Julián has a capacity of 60 passengers. There are usually six trips per day lasting 2 hrs, cost $15.00. Catamaran information: @ (02972)425142 Lago Tromen: 54 km north-west on RP 60. Not to be confused with Lago Tromen north of Chos Malal. This lake is 19 km long and 7 km wide, and is so deeply cut into the basalt rocks which form the surrounding mountains that it resembles a fiord. The water is greenish but clear, and the few

•

•

• •

•

411

beaches have volcanic sand and pebbles. The sheltered bays here make wonderful camping spots. Fishing is excellent in this lake, and attracts many local anglers. Be careful out on the lake: it can get very windy at short notice Volcán Lanín: Junín is the gateway for climbers and hikers in the Volcán Lanín section of the national park. You need a permit and/or a mountain guide if you want to climb this volcano. The national parks service has built several refuges there. The northern approach is from Lago Tromen and at 2700 m is Refugio Colonel Bedoya. The southern approach is via Lago Paimún starting at Puerto Canoa, and there are two refugios there. Climbing Volcán Lanín takes two to three days. The first day is a 5 hour climb to Refugio R.I.M.; the second day is a 7 hour climb to the peak and a 5 hour descent. Cost of mountain guide is $75.00 per day. For more information about refugios in the Volcán Lanín area see Accommodation above Auca Pan and Atreuco: Two of several native reservations in the area, both about 40 km north. An El Petróleo bus leaves San Martín de los Andes on Tuesdays 09:00 for Aluminé, passing through Junín. Ask the driver to let you off at Río Malleo for Atreuco, another 9 km walk down the track. The Indians make handicrafts which are for sale Epulafquen: Thermal springs near here, close to the Chilean border Fortín Huechu Lauquen on Lago Huechulafquen, and Fortín Mamuy Malal on the road to Lago Tromen: Two of several forts in the area built in the 1880s Pucón, on Lago Villarrica in Chile, via the Paso Tromen (altitude 1200 m). Once in Chile you pass through the superb Parque Nacional Villarrica, with views of Volcán Quetrupillan (2360 m) and, further on, Volcán Villarrica (2840 m). See the companion volume Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región IX de la Araucania”

Junín de los Andes

PATAGONIA

NEUQUÉN

Neuquén Population: 215 000 Postal code: 8300 @ area code: (0299) Altitude: 265 m Distances From Buenos Aires: 1147 km south-west • From Mendoza: 837 km south-east •

T

he capital of Neuquén Province, Neuquén is located at the junction of the Río Limay and the Río Neuquén. It is considered the fastest-growing city in Patagonia today, with good reason: heavy industries produce engineering and construction materials, and there are rich oil-fields to the west and irrigated fruit orchards in the valleys to the east. These orchards are sheltered by long rows of eye-catching windbreaks; the main crops are apples, pears, and grapes.

Key to map A B C D E H I P $ T

Catedral María La Auxiliadora Gobernación Provincial (Government) Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica Argentina Hospital Dirección Provincial de Turismo A.C.A. Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 15 16 19 23 24 25 27 29 39 40 44 49 59 62 65 66 67

Hotel Italia Residencial Neuquén Hospedaje Imperio Hotel Suizo Hotel Apolo Residencial Alcorta Apart Hotel Casino and Hotel Nuevo Parque Hotel Ideal Hotel Charbel Hotel Crystal Hotel Iberia Hotel Royal Hotel del Comahué Hospedaje Pani Residencial Belgrano Hotel Huemul Residencial Musters Hotel Amucán

Neuquén

68 Residencial Inglés

52 Sala de Arte Emilio Saraco

4 Eating out

6 Airline offices

2 3 6

14 17 21 26 28 30 31 34 35 36 37 38 42 43 46 50 51 55 57 58 60 61

Confitería Quitepenas Restaurant Shanghai Restaurant La Casa de mi Nieto Restaurant El Tío Pizzería Pop Hot Pizza Restaurant La Aguada de Coco Cafetería Jimmy Bar Confitería Aladín Café Claudio Restaurant El Sótano Cafetería Patio del Alto Pizzería La Tartaruga Café John L. Cook Restaurant La Nonna Francesa Restaurant Chino Cafetería Cap Ferrat Cafetería Siete Uno Cafetería El Ciervo Restaurant El Ruedo Cafetería La Terminal Café Italiano Restaurant La Rural Restaurant La Fusta Restaurant Pastilandia Restaurant Barracuda

5 Entertainment 4 Disco Blip 9 Café El Colonial 10 Disco Krono’s

412

18 20 41 48 54 56

L.A.D.E. SW LAPA Kaikén Líneas Aéreas Austral–AR TAN–VASP

7 Tour operators and car rental 11 12 22 32 63

Localiza Budget Rent a Car Avis Rent-a-Car Exterior Turismo Domuyo SRL

9 Sights 7

Museo Histórico Provincial

0 Services 5 8 13 33 45 47 53 64 69 70 71

Migraciones Chilean Consulate Cambio Pullman Casa de Cambio Olano Turismo Municipal El Mangrullo and Artesanías TYA Paseo de los Artesanos Y.P.F. Italian vice-consulate Laverap Former General Roca train station

NEUQUÉN To Bariloche and Zapala 237

22 INT. CHANETON

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C.H. RODRÍGUEZ

7 LA RIOJA

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B

9 10

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22 21

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6

19 9

D

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15 16

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34 35 36

37

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32

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33

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27

17

H. YRIGOYEN

J.B. JUSTO

25 26

SAN MARTÍN

SAN LUIS 28 29 30

SARMIENTO

23

M. ALCORTA

24

B

B

T. PLANES JULIÁN LASTRA

14

VA

12

AVENIDA OLASCOAGA AVENIDA ARGENTINA

45

BUENOS AIRES

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58

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71

63

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Parque Central

Plaza J.V. González MENDOZA

66

67 TIERRA DEL FUEGO

22

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69 68

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65

61 62

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47

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41

RIVADAVIA

Parque

INDEPENDENCIA

T

OBLIGADO

B. MITRE

P. MORENO

FÉLIX SAN MARTÍN PERTICONE

To Río Limay

39 40

TUCUMÁN

70

BAHÍA BLANCA ENTRE RÍOS

NEUQUÉN

To Bahía Blanca

413

Neuquén

PATAGONIA The main shopping street is Avenida & • La Nonna Francesa, Diagonal 9 de Julio 65. Trattoria Argentina, which has a center strip • La Rural, J B Alberdi 126. Parrilla planted with trees: the benches un• Pastilandia, Félix San Martín 246. Reder them are a pleasant place to rest gional cuisine or eat lunch. • Shanghai, Salta 56. Chinese cuisine; open Tues–Sun 12:00–15:00, Don’t confuse San Martín and 20:00–01:00 Félix San Martín—they are different Pizzerías streets entirely. Centenario, with 27 000 inhab- & • Café El Colonial, Roca 285 • La Tartaruga, Avenida Argentina 376 itants and located 15 km north on • Pop Hot Pizza, Irigoyen 90 RP 7, is virtually a suburb of Confiterías Neuquén. The motel here is excel• Aladín, Sarmiento 76 lent. • Café Claudio, San Luis 224 • Café Italiano, Buenos Aires 133 • Café John L. Cook, Belgrano 6 Dirección Provincial de Turismo, • El Colonial, Roca 285. Music Félix San Martín 182 @ 4424089 fax • Jimmy Bar, Avenida Olascoaga 267 4432438 • La Terminal, Mitre 129 Turismo Municipal, Buenos Aires 160 & • Cap Ferrat, Rivadavia 96 @ 4424803 • Patio del Alto, Avenida Argentina Ente Provincial de Termas, Roca 565 344 @ 4422153 fax 4424687 • Quitapenas, San Martín 533. Music Guardafauna, Puente Carretero • Siete Uno, Rivadavia 71 @ 4425020; you can get fishing licences here Eating out in Balneario Río Grande • Restaurant Los Asadores. Parrilla Camping & • Restaurant La Riviera. Parrilla Camping Municipal, Balneario Mu• Restaurant Polo Club, RN 22 KM nicipal on Río Limay Bolívar near 1220. Regional cuisine Huilliches AFR • Restaurant Tennis Club, Olascoaga 1355. Regional cuisine

B Tourist information •

• • •

D •

E Eating out

n Entertainment

Restaurants • Chino, Diagonal 9 de Julio 58. Chinese cuisine • Don Pipo, J.B. Justo 120. Parrilla • El Ciervo, Avenida Argentina 219. Seafood • El Crucero, Olascoaga 583. Seafood • Barracuda, Rivadavia 265. Regional cuisine & • La Fusta, J.B. Alberdi 176. K • El Plato, J.B. Alberdi 158 • El Tío, San Luis 265. Regional cuisine • El Ruedo, Mitre 123. Regional cuisine • El Sótano, San Martín 41 & • El Trébol Blanco, Láinez near Lastra. Parrilla • La Aguada de Coco, Almte Brown 243 • La Casa de mi Nieto, Santiago del Estero 41

Neuquén

• • • • • • •

Casino Magic Neuquén, RN 22 KM 7 near airport Complejo Cultural Estación del Ferrocarril. Former Roca railroad station Disco Blip, Salta 95 Disco Krono’s, Roca 275 Disco Pirkas, Santiago del Estero near 9 de Julio Sala De Arte “Emilio Saraco”, former Roca railroad station Tanguería 840, Santa Cruz near Libertad. Tango dancing

I Post and telegraph

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414

Post office: Correo Argentino, Rivadavia block 200 near Santa Fe Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, J B Alberdi 243 near Córdoba

NEUQUÉN C Accommodation in Neuquén Apart Hotels **

Hotels **** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * * *

Casino, M. Alcorta 19 E-mail: [email protected]

$E

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del Comahué, Avenida Argentina 377 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 4432040 @ 4422439/40 Apolo, Olascoaga 361 AEFGJLPSUV @ 422334 Crystal, Olascoaga 268 AEFGJLPUV @ 4422414 Iberia, Olascoaga 294 AEFGJLPUV @ 4423653 Ideal, Olascoaga 243 AEFGJLPUV @ 4422431/2 Royal, Avenida Argentina 143 AEFGJLPUV @ 4422408 Amucán, Tucumán 115 AELPV @ 4425209 Charbel, San Luis 268 AELPV @ 4424143 Huemul, Tierra del Fuego 335 AELPV @ 4422344 Italia, J.B. Justo 782 AELPV @ 4422234 Nuevo Parque, Olascoaga 271 AELPV @ 4425086 Suizo, C.H. Rodríguez 167 AELPV @ 4422602

Residenciales A A A A A B B •

@

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Alcorta, M. Alcorta 84 Belgrano, Rivadavia 283 Inglés, Félix San Martín 534 Musters, Tierra del Fuego 255 Neuquén, J.B. Justo 109 Imperio, H Irigoyen 66 Pani, Félix San Martín 238 La Frontera, Ignacio Rivas 352

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

LP LP LP LP LP L EHL AHP

Accommodation in Colonia Valentina Colonia Valentina is a suburb of Neuquén near the airport. Motels Arrayán, RN 22 Hostal del Caminante, RN 22 • Holiday Inn Express, at the airport

*** ***

Accommodation in Centenario

&

**

Motel Sayhueque, RP 7

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Accommodation in Arroyito Arroyito is located 50 km south-west of Neuquén on RN 22. ***

Motel Posta Arroyito, RN 22

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

L Financial • • •

P Visas, passports

• •

Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén, Avenida Argentina 41. ATM Casa de Cambio Olano, J B Justo 97 @ 430204 Cambio Pullman, Ministro Alcorta 144 @ 422438 Laundromat: Independencia 513

Chile, La Rioja 241 @ 4422727 Italian vice-consulate, P. Moreno 549 @ 4424457

U Motoring

The road to Buenos Aires is sealed all the way. Service stations • A.C.A., Diagonal 25 de Mayo near Buenos Aires • Y.P.F., Chubut 291 near Mitre

M Services and facilities •

@

Laverap,

415

Neuquén

PATAGONIA R Air services from Neuquén

Aéropuerto Internacional del Neuquén is at Colonia Valentina, 7 km from town. • Austral–AR, Santa Fe 54 @ 4422409/423486 fax 4425087 • L.A.D.E., Alte Brown 163 near C Rodríguez @ 44311153; e-mail: [email protected]. For flight itineraries see the L.A.D.E. section under Air Services from Buenos Aires City on page 66 • LAPA, Avenida Argentina 35 @ 4488335 fax • TAN–VASP, Diagonal 25 de Mayo 180 @ 4424834 fax 4422039; e-mail: [email protected] ° Bariloche (11 4 hrs) and Comodoro Rivadavia; 1 weekly ° Chapelco and Bariloche; 2 weekly • Kaikén Líneas Aéreas, Avenida Argentina 327 @ 4471333/4437017 ° Comodoro Rivadavia via Bariloche and Esquel; 1 weekly • Southern Winds, Ave. Argentina 327 @ 4420142; e-mail: [email protected] ° Bahía Blanca (11 2 hrs); 5 weekly ° Buenos Aires (11 2 hrs) 4 daily ° Buenos Aires via Bahía Blanca and Mar del Plata; 1 weekly ° Comodoro Rivadavia via Viedma and Trelew; 1 weekly ° Comodoro Rivadavia; 6 weekly ° Córdoba (41 4 hrs) via Mendoza; 5 weekly ° Córdoba via San Juan; 1 weekly ° Mendoza; 2–5 weekly ° Mendoza via Chos Malal; 2 weekly ° Trelew; 1–2 weekly ° Ushuaia via Bariloche, C. Rivadavia, Lago Argentino, Río Gallegos,and Río Grande; 3 weekly •

Car rental • A1 Rent-a-Car, Perticone 735 (RN 22) @ 4438714 • Avis Rent a Car, J.J. Lastra 1196 @ 4430216 fax 4484926; e-mail: [email protected] • Budget , T. Planas 129 @ 481964 fax • Localiza, La Pampa 462 @ 4420875

•

p Sightseeing

•

Y Shopping

•

A Fería de Artesanos is held Sat and Sun just outside the cathedral. • Artesanías TYA, Avenida Argentina 257 • El Mangrullo, Avenida Argentina 253. Handicrafts • Artesanías Mapuche, M T de Alvear 62 (corner of Yrigoyen) • Paseo de los Artesanos, former General Roca railroad station

Museo Histórico Provincial (Provincial History Museum), San Martín 280 in Parque Central. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–12:00 and 15:00–19:00 Museo de Ciencias Naturales (Natural Science Museum), Avenida Argentina 1400

Sightseeing in Villa El Chocón Villa El Chocón is located 84 km southwest of Neuquén on RN 237. • Museo Paleontológico “El Chocón” (El Chocón Paleontological Museum). Fossilized remains of dinosaurs and petrified tree trunks from the area

a Sport •

Aero Club Neuquén, Aeropuerto Colonia Valentina @ 4465980 Golf • Arroyito Country Club, Arroyito 8313 @ 4902022; 18 holes. The turn-off is 14 km west off RN 22 near Senillosa

Neuquén

Comahue Golf Club, Valentina Norte @ 4440360/4441194 El Rincón Club de Campo, Paraje Rincón de Emilio @ 4425859/4425456

s Excursions Tour operators • Domuyo SRL, Santa Fe 345 @ 4431279 fax 4425337

416

NEUQUÉN S Buses from Neuquén

Neuquén is an important provincial transport centre. The bus terminal is on B Mitre 147, between Corrientes and Río Negro. Bus companies • A5 Alto Valle @ 4434510 ° Rincón de los Sauces; 2 weekly. This bus passes east of the Sierra de Auca Mahuida on RP 8 on its way north • A27 Centenario S.R.L. @ 4488778 ° Caviahue and Copahue (61 2 hrs); 1 daily ° Centenario and Barda del Medio; every 15 minutes ° San Martín de los Andes ($28.00; 7 hrs) via Junín de los Andes ($25.00; 6 hrs) ; 2 daily ° Zapala via Cutral-Có; 5 daily • A33 T.A. Chevallier @ 4423791 ° San Martín de los Andes (61 4 hrs) via Cutral-Có, Zapala and Junín de los Andes; 1 daily ° Piedra del Águila (23 4 hrs); 2 weekly • A64 El Petróleo @ 4484601/4423661 ° Arroyito (1 hour); 2 daily ° Caviahue and Copahue ( $20.90; 6 hrs); 4 weekly ° Cutral-Có ($4.40; 2 hrs); 7 daily ° Piedra del Águila (4 hrs) via El Chocón (1 hour, $3.30); 1–2 daily ° Las Lajas ($8.80); 1 daily ° Loncopué (8 hrs); 1–2 daily ° San Martín de los Andes ($28.00; 71 4 hrs) via Junín de los Andes ($25.00; 6 hrs) ; 2–3 daily ° Villa la Angostura ($30.00; 12 hrs, ); 1 daily ° Zapala (3 hrs); 11 daily • A71 El Rápido Internacional @ 4427054 • A81 Andesmar @ 4422216 ° Piedra del Águila (3hrs); 1 daily • A110 Empresa San Martín @ 4488778 • A121 Expreso Caraza @ 4423661 • A143 Igi Llaima @ 4423661 • A155 La Estrella S.R.L. @ 4427054 • A200 Ruta Sur @ 4487606 • A211 T.A.C. @ 4421244 • A218 Transporte Tirsa @ 4436237 • A220 Transporte Mercedes @ 4423661 • A224 La Unión del Sud @ 4484052 ° Aluminé (61 2 hrs); 3 weekly ° Barrancas (12 hrs) via Zapala, Buta Ranquil; 2 weekly ° Las Ovejas (11 hrs) via Arroyito, Plaza Huincul, Cutral-Có($4.40; 2 hrs), Zapala ($9.00; 3 hrs), Covunco, Bajada del Agrio, Paso del Salado, Naunauco, Chos Malal ($24.00), Andacollo ($27.50), Nahueve, and Bella Vista; 1–3 daily ° El Cholar (91 2 hrs); ° San Martín de los Andes ($28.00; 6 hrs) via Junín de los Andes ($25.00; 6 hrs); 2 daily ° Primeros Pinos (31 2 hrs) ° Tricao Malal (101 2 hrs) via Zapala, and Chos Malal; 2 weekly • A239 Ko–Ko @ 4487606 • A251 TUS @ 4420270 • A252 UTE Comahue @ 4434510

417

Neuquén

PATAGONIA Buses from Neuquén — continued •

A262 El Valle @ 425168 ° Piedra del Águila(3 hrs); 1 daily ° San Martín de los Andes ( $28.00; 7 hrs) via Junín de los Andes ($25.00; 61 4 hrs) ; 4 weekly ° Zapala ($9.00; 31 2 hrs) via Cutral-Có); 1 daily • A263 Del Sur y Media Agua @ 4488778 • A265 Via Bariloche @ 4427054/4430959 • A266 Aluminé Viajes @ 4427054 ° Aluminé (51 2 hrs); 3 weekly • A302 Don Otto @ 4423661 • A305 Costera Criolla @ 4423661 • A347 Albus @ 4422216 ° Aluminé (6 hrs); 3 services weekly ° San Martín de los Andes (6 hrs) via Junín de los Andes; 1 service daily • A348 Narbus @ 4423661; to Chile • Transporte El Caminante @ 4427054: Rincón de los Sauces (4 hrs); 4 daily • Transporte El Gringo: Rincón de los Sauces • Transporte Mosconi: Rincón de los Sauces, Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

& • •

Destination Fare Services Bahía Blanca $30.00 4 daily Bariloche $30.00 5 daily Buenos Aires $45.00 5 daily Comodoro Rivadavia $65.00 2–3 daily Córdoba $72.00 2 daily El Bolsón $42.00 1–2 daily Esquel $56.00 1–2 daily Mar Del Plata Mendoza $46.00 3–4 daily Osorno (Chile) $45.00 Puerto Madryn $39.00 5 weekly Rawson Río Gallegos $111.00 1–2 daily Rosario $75.00 2 daily San Luis 4 weekly San Rafael $27.50 4 daily Santa Fe $80.00 Santa Rosa $28.00 4 daily Temuco Via Paso Tromen $49.00 Trelew $42.00 1–2 daily Valdivia (Chile) $46.00 Viedma Villarrica (Chile) via Paso Tromen

Duration 8 hrs 7 hrs 15 hrs 15 hrs 17 hrs 10 hrs 12 hrs 12 hrs 12 hrs 28 hrs 14 hrs 11 hrs 16 hrs 9 hrs

A81, A211, A302 A33, A155, A251 A81, A220 A5, A81 A262 A5, A81, A211, A263 A81 A81, A302 A81 A81, A302, A211 TIRSA, A33 T.I.C.S.A A5, A81, A211, A263 A5 A5, A33, A262

A81, A110, A143, A224 11 hrs A81, A302 A81 10 hrs A155, A262 A110, A143, A224

•

Mari Mari, Salta 82 @ 4470054; e-mail: [email protected] Excursions • Bariloche: The road south-west is now completely sealed. It is a

Exterior Turismo, San Martín 29 @ 4431461 fax 4430359. Also money exchange G u s t a v o O l s e n , e - m a i l : s a f [email protected]; organises fishing trips and safaris

Neuquén

Company A155, A262 A81, A220, A251, A262,A265 A33, A155, A262

418

NEUQUÉN pleasant drive through orchards to Arroyito, where there is a hotel. From there the road follows the northern rim of the Embalse Ramos Mexia, an

artificial lake created by damming the Río Limay

PIEDRA DEL ÁGUILA

Piedra del Águila Postal code: 8315 @ area code: (02942) Altitude: 573 m Distance from Neuquén: 222 km west on RN 237

P

iedra del Águila — the name means “Eagle’s Rock”— is located about 5 km north of the Río Limay. The main attraction is the nearby Río Limay with swimming facilities and good fishing; RN 237 goes straight through the town center where most of the tourist facilities are located. Note that the southern lane (going to Neuquén) is called Los Cerritos and past Sarmiento is called Conrado Villegas; the north lane (going to Bariloche) is called Dr. Gregorio Alvarez throughout town.

B Tourist information •

n Entertainment

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Dirección de Cultura y Turismo Municipal, Las Bardas 55 @ 493115

C Accommodation

I Post and telegraph

•

• •

Hotel Chamonix, David Zapata 133 @ 493215 * Hostería El Ciervo, Lanín 55 AELPV @ 493267 $H 2 A Residencial El Cristal, Dr. Gregorio Alvarez LP @ 493111/493201 $H 2 A Residencial Ruca Peñi, Almte. Brown 109 Accommodation on RN 237 *** Hotel Ranch, Estancia Santa Teresa 25 km from town; full pension ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 493125 $E 1

Correo Argentino, Las Bardas 233 Telefónica de Argentina, Avenida San Martín 101

L Financial

•

Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén, C. Villegas 52

M Services and facilities

• •

Pharmacy: Farmacia Sur, C. Villegas 36 Fotography: Michel, 9 de Julio 70

S Buses

D Camping •

Casa de la Cultura “Quimey Tuhun”, San Martín 34

There are four bus stops (“paradores”) in Piedra del Águila.

Camping Municipal, Las Rosas 571 @ 493115; capacity 50 tents on 1.5 ha; little shade

Parador Michelangelo, Winter near Villegas @ 493306; restaurant • T.A. Mercedes, Centenario, TUS, El Pampa, El Rápido, El Valle, El Petróleo, Cono Sur and La Unión Del Sud; services to Neuquén and Bariloche

E Eating out Restaurants • Barilo, C. Villegas 182 • Charleston, Sarmiento 156 • Keops • La Donna, Los Cerritos 21 • Meulen, Sarmiento 13

419

Piedra del Águila

PATAGONIA 237

E WA

LO S O

LT E R

13

R AY E

N

OSAS LAS R 12 A L IA S LAS D

ARDA

C AY

AM S AL

N

LÓP

EZ A

9

O

OR

A PA TA

M 5 DE

9 DE

3

6 $

GENERAL MITRE 2

IO

ADA

7 SARMIENTO 5 4

JUL

H

AY O

VIA

4 6 12 13

C

ic o

L. F

1 GENERAL GÜEMES

ERN ÁND

Arroy

Á

o Sañ

GRA

CA

UR

EZ O

GENERAL WINTER

237

V. LÓPEZ

ALMTE. BROWN

RO

I

Farmacia del Sur Photography: Michel Casa del Turista Isaura service station

Parador Chamonix, J.A. Roca 77 @ 493128; cafetería • Andesmar, Quilla–Peñi. 1 service daily to Bariloche (3 hrs), El Bolsón (5 hrs) and Esquel (71 4 hrs) Parador Atalaya, C. Villegas 166 @ 493219; restaurant • Tirsa: Buses run regularly to Neuquén and Bariloche • Empresa Cono Sur ° Rincón Chico; 4 daily

T

C LFU

Casa de la Cultura

0 Services

MANUEL BELGRANO

8

2

RIV

9 A

ES

Restaurant Barilo Restaurant Charleston Restaurant Keops Restaurant Meulen Restaurant La Donna

5 Entertainment

GENERAL SAN MARTÍN

Parque San Martín

D BLA

D

LAS BARDAS ADOLFO ALSINA

S. P

O

1 3 5 7 8

P

D. Z

PRO

4 Eating out 11

LAS ROCAS

LANÍN

P

IZ

T 10

REN

2 Residencial Ruca Peñi 10 Hostería El Ciervo 11 Camping Municipal

OS

LAN

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica de Argentina Hospital Tourist information A.C.A. Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén Parador Atalaya and Parador El Cristal

3 Accommodation

S

LO

MO

A C D E H I P $ T

LMOS

AMAN

TO ERI

Key to map

PIEDRA DEL ÁGUILA

LAS B

OS EZ E R R IT LV A R LO S C R IO A REGO DR. G

JORG

TO NEUQUÉN RO NEG RÍO

U Motoring

TO BARILOCHE

Service stations • A.C.A., Dr. Gregorio Alvarez near Primeros Pobladores • Isaura, Dr. Gregorio Alvarez 666

Parador El Cristal, Los Cerritos 355 @ 493239; restaurant • T.A. Chevallier, La Estrella, Alto Valle

Piedra del Águila

Y Shopping

•

420

Regional Articles: Casa del Turista, Los Cerritos near Las Dalias

NEUQUÉN

PRIMEROS PINOS Altitude: 1630 m at the base @: Operator connected, dial 19 Distance from Zapala: 50 km west on RP 13

T

he winter resort of Primeros Pinos, set in the foothills of the Andes among araucania forests, is a good place for beginner skiers. The resort itself comprises two parts: the base area Primeros Pinos at 1600 m, and Cerro Quelli Mahuida at 1810 m. There is a ski school, ski hire, restaurant, and café at base level, and a cafeteria, teleski, and ski lift above at Cerro Mahuida. The skiing season runs from July 1 to September 30. There are 6 ha (15 acres) of skiing area.

Cerro Quelli Mahuida

On average there is about 0.7 m of dry compact snow. At the base, the slopes incline at an angle of about 20°. Primeros Pinos is good for beginners and intermediate skiers. Skiing equipment for Alpine skiing can be hired at Primeros Pinos. They have about 100 pairs of skis for hire. A sign at the base of the ski run indicates what services are available on a particular day. Ski clubs with facilities here are: Club Andino Zapala, Caza y Pesca, and Club Andino Chachil.

Upper area; total capacity is 600 skiers per hour; daily lift tickets cost $15.00.

C Accommodation

Booking is essential if you want accommodation right on the snow-fields. See also Accommodation in Zapala on page 439. ** Hostería Primeros Pinos AEFGJLPSUV @ (02942)421163 $G 2. 28 beds

S Buses

•

Base area

•

Facilities, near the hostería include: • Teleski Borer: 150 m long, can carry 600 skiers per hour, height difference 130 m • School ski lift: 130 long, can carry 600 skiers per hour, height difference 20 m

Empresa Unión del Sud operates buses from Neuquén and Zapala ($44.00) @ (02942) 421363 Empresa Alvarez Internacional, Avenida Trannack 1440, Zapala @ 421376. Their address in Buenos Aires is 5th floor, 508 Avenida Santa Fe 1780 @ 410397. This company organizes skiing trips from Zapala twice a day in the skiing season. They leave Zapala at 10:00 and 13:00, and return from Primeros Pinos at 10:45 and 13:45. The trip takes about an hour

RINCÓN DE LOS SAUCES

Rincón de los Sauces Postal code: 8319 @ area code: (0299) Distances • To Neuquén 212 km south on RP 8 • To 25 de Mayo (La Pampa Province) 160 km east on RP 8 and RP 6

421

Rincón de los Sauces

PATAGONIA

R

incón de los Sauces (”Willow Corner”) is located on the Río Negro which makes its way between two volcanic mountain ranges, Sierra de Chachahuen in La Pampa Province (2065 m) and Sierra de Auca Mahuida in Neuquén Province (2253 m).

S Buses

•

The three bus companies run daily frequent services to Neuquén. • Transporte Mosconi, Mosconi 1280 @ (0299) 4887555

•

Transporte El Gringo, San Martín 1364 @ (0299) 4886478 Transportes Bazanta, Parque Industrial @ (0299) 4886030

C Accommodation in Rincón de los Sauces Hotels • • • • • • •

El Popeye, Ave. Mosconi 608 El Zorro, La Rioja 290 Holidey, Parque Industrial Laura, Ave. Pres. Perón 1099 Michelangelo, San Martín near Mosconi Hotel Rincón, Ave. 30 de Octubre Hotel San José, Río Negro 809

@ @ @ @ @ @ @

(0299) 4886558 (0299) 4886652 (0299) 4886470 (0299) 4886069 (0299) 4886053 (0299) 4886606 (0299) 4886287

SAN MARTÍN DE LOS ANDES

San Martín de los Andes Population: 20 000 Postal code: 8370 @ area code: (02972) Altitude: 655 m Distances • From Junín de los Andes: 41 km south-west on RP 234 • From Zapala: 240 km south-west on RN 40 then RP 234

S

an Martín de los Andes is located at the eastern end of Lago Lácar. It is well geared for tourism with accommodation for over 3000 people in a variety of hotels. It is a good starting point to explore the Parque Nacional Lanín, with its idyllic lakes and wooded mountain valleys, all dominated by the snow-capped Volcán Lanín. Its main attraction however is the nearby Cerro Chapelco ski area. The Valle de Lácar was annexed in 1898 by the forces of General Rudecindo Roca. This was the area which was settled by the Mapuche tribe led by Cacique Curruhuinca. The area’s main source of income was timber, which was shipped to Chile because the road system into Argentina was for a long time inadequate.

San Martín de los Andes

In 1937 Parque Nacional Lanín was established and from then onwards tourism gradually became the mainstay of the economy. The popular skiing resort of Cerro Chapelco is only 18 km from here, and can be reached on an excellent road which is kept open even after heavy snowfalls. Drivers should note that trafic is one-way on RN 234 as far as the turn-off east onto RP 19. 422

NEUQUÉN D Camping

For a shorter return route take RP 19 all the way north to San Martín. See Cerro Chapelco on page 400. The surface of Lago Lácar covers 50 square km (19square miles). It measures 24 km long and 3 km wide, and is 640 m above sea level. The deepest point is 77 m. The site of San Martín was once under the waters of Lago Lácar, at a time when the lake emptied into the Atlantic Ocean. The water level dropped, however, and the lake found an outlet into the Pacific Ocean. Also included here is the small village of Loglog some 7 km north of San Martín. Empresa San Martín and Transportes Ko-Ko run three services daily ($2.00). San Martín is a good base for trips into neighboring Chile. Please note: Do not confuse General Roca and Rudecindo Roca streets; they are different streets!

•

Camping on Lago Lácar RN 108 • Camping Quila Quina, 12 km west @ 428719 fax. Capacity 70 tents on 3 ha AFLW; bicycle and horse hire

E Eating out

Most restaurants start to serve dinner around 21:00. There are over 70 restaurants in San Martín de los Andes catering for all tastes and price levels. Restaurants • La Fondue de Betty, Villegas 586. Swiss cuisine • Club Lácar, Rivadavia 599. Parrilla • El Ciervo, Villegas 724. Regional cuisine • El Derby, Villegas 657. Trout and venison • La Mendieta, Ave. San Martín 713 • La Tasca, Mariano Moreno 866 • La Tinaja, Ave. San Martín 456 • Las Catalinas, Villegas 743. International cuisine • Las Leñas, Belgrano 461. International Cuisine • Mi Viejo Pepe, Villegas 725. Regional cuisine • Paprika, Villegas 744 • Piscis, Villegas 598 corner of Moreno. Seafood • Radal, Perito Moreno 838 Cafeterías and confiterías • Pancho Villa, San Martín 465 • Peumayen, San Martín 851 • Peperone, Ave. San Martín 820 Eating out outside San Martín del los Andes • Restaurant Arrayán, Mirador Arrayán, 3 km from town center • Restaurant Hua Hum, RP 48. International cuisine • Restaurant Hotel Sol de los Andes, RP 19. International cuisine

B Tourist information •

•

•

A.C.A. Camping, Avenida Koessler 2176, RN 234 east. The kiosk is not open all year round

Secretaría Municipal de Turismo Rosas 790, in the main square near the corner of San Martin @ 427347 fax 427695; e-mail: munitur@smandes. datacop8.com.ar. Open 08:00–24:00 in summer, 08:00–21:00 in winter. Web site: www.smandes.gov.ar (English and Spanish). One of the best Web sites. You can virtually plan your own program and attach costs. Particularly impressive is the section on activities such as hikes, skiing mountaineering, excursions, and fishing Intendencia Parque Nacional Lanín, E. Frey 749, opposite the Plaza. Information about hikes and cabins in the national parks Asociación de Guías de Montaña (Argentine Mountain Guide Association), @ 422178. Contact: Sr. Manuel de la Cruz

n Entertainment

• • • • •

423

Casino Magic, Hotel Sol de los Andes Cine Amancay, General Roca 1154 Club Náutico, Avenida Costanera Club Lácar, Rivadavia 599 Disco Jupiter, Elordi near R. Roca

San Martín de los Andes

PATAGONIA • • • • • •

•

Buenos Aires Ski, San Martín 1157 @ 429056 • Mountain Ski Shop, San Martín 861 @ 427782 Fishing and boating equipment • Sidy Pesca, Villegas 570 • Aquaterra, Villegas 788 @ 429036

Fax disco, Elordi 950 La Taberna, Elordi 767. Dancing Momento’s Pub, Mascardi 750 Pub Ku, Avenida San Martín 1053 Robert Pub, San Martín 1127 Teatro San José, Capitán Drury 760

I Post and telegraph •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Roca near Coronel Pérez Telephone: Telefónica de España, Drury 761 near Roca

•

U Motoring Gas station • A.C.A., Avenida Koessler 2176 @ 47332. Also sells snow chains Car rental • Avis, Avenida San Martín 998 @ 427704 fax 428500; e-mail: [email protected] • A1 Rent a Car, Ave. San Martín 866 loc. 3 @ 427997 fax 428482 • Ici Rent a Car, Villegas 590 @ 427800 • Localiza Rent a Car, Villegas 977 @ 428876

L Financial •

Banco de la Nación Argentina, Ave. Sarmiento 687 @ 427292. ATM Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén, Belgrano 999 @ 427594 Cambio Andina International, Cap. Drury 876 @ 428392

• •

M Services and facilities •

Bicycle hire: HG Rodados, Avenida San Martín 1060 • Photography: Foto Thumann, San Martín 643 @ 47485 • Laundromats: Laverap, Drury 882 Pharmacies • Farmacia Austral, Elordi 765 • Farmacia Lácar, San Martín 775 near Drury Ski hire • Austria Ski Ranch, Avenida San Martín 576 @ 427366

Key to map H T

Hospital Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 3 4 12 22 23 24 42 43 56 57 66 67 68 69 70 77

Residencial Laura Hotel del Viejo Esquiador Hotel Turismo Hotel Crismalú Hostería Cumelén Cabañas Caribou (Trabunche) Hotel de los Andes Cabañas Claro del Bosque Hostería La Masia Cabañas del Rincón Hostería La Raclette Residencial Italia Residencial Casa Alta Hotel Aspen Club Hostería Las Lengas Cabañas Ojo del Agua Cabañas del Silencio

San Martín de los Andes

82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 94 95 96 97

# Water transport

•

•

Naviera Lácar & Nonthué provides excursions on Lago Lácar. Their boat Mari Mari leaves from Ave. Costanera near General Villegas in the Parque Yapeyú. There are fewer services out of season. The ticket office is open 09:30–17:30. Information:@ 428427 fax; e-mail: [email protected] Hua Hum, by boat: The boat leaves San Martín at 09:30 and passes the

Hostería Hostal del Lago Residencial Los Pinos Cabañas del Lácar Hostería El Arbol Duende Cabañas Club Woodland Hostería Hostal del Esquiador Cabañas Catalanas Apart Hotel Rose Garden Cabañas Lelen Hostería Villa Biby Hostería El Peñon Cabañas del Chapelco Hostería del Chapelco Cabañas Vista del Lago Hostería La Posta del Cazador

4 Eating out

25 Restaurant Las Leñas 79 Restaurant La Tinaja 81 Cafetería Pancho Villa

424

93 Restaurant Piscis

5 Entertainment 2 5 8 11

Momento’s Pub Cine Amancay Robert Pub Fax Disco

7 Tour operators and car rental 6 Grupo Tres de Turismo 80 El Refugio Tours

0 Services 7 $

Buenos Aires Ski Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén 76 Artesanías Arauz 98 Navegación Lago Lácar

NEUQUÉN To Lago Nontuhé and Paso Hua Hum (Chile)

To Junín de los Andes and Neuquén

ah

ull

a

CURRUHUINCA 48

oy

oP

oc

234

Arr

RAMAYÓN 3 1

2 MASCARDI 7 8

6

5

4

24

GRAL . ROCA

Plaza Sarmiento ELORDI

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

12

PERITO MORENO

RUDECINDO ROCA

S. CALDERÓN

A . FOSBERY

3 DE CABALLERÍA

SARMIENTO

11

22 23

BELGRANO $

42

25 Refer to Map "Centro 43

Plaza San Martín

66

FREY

67

56

57

68 69 70

M. MORENO 76 77 RIVADAVIA

80 CNEL . RHODE

Reserva Municipal

85 86

81

79

83

82

84

H

87 88 89 90

91

CNEL . DIAZ 93

95

T

92

96 94 234

JUEZ DEL VALLE

To Cerro Chapelco and Villa La Angostura

CNEL . PÉREZ

G. OBEID

GRAL VILLEGAS

ROSAS

ALMTE BROWN

CAP. DRURY

97

N

O IN GRAEFF

A .C

M 98

.A M

S CO

TA

NE

RA

Lago Lacar

425

San Martín de los Andes

PATAGONIA C Accommodation in San Martín de Los Andes

As well as normal hotels, cabin-style accommodation known as “cabañas” is available in San Martín de los Andes. These cabins are built to accommodate from four to six persons, and have cooking facilities. They are quite a bargain if you have a family or are traveling with several people. Prices are given for the prime skiing season and the rest of the year. The prime skiing season is from July–August and the low season is from September–June Apart Hotels *** *** ***

La Bora, Ave. San Martín near Ramayón ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 427930 @ Rincón de los Andes, Juez del Valle 611 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Rose Garden, Cnel Díaz 1156 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @

428171/4 428593 fax 428295 fax

$A/C 4 $C/D 2 $C/D 4

Hotels

Chatelet, Villegas 650 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ Fax 428296; Email: www.7lagos.com @ 428294 $D/E *** Caupolicán, San Martín 969 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 427900 fax $D/E *** del Viejo Esquiador, San Martín 1242 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 427690 fax $D/E *** Le Village, Roca 816 near Capitán Drury ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 427698 fax $C/D ** Aspen Club, Pérez 1127 AEFGJLPSUV Fax 428425 @ 427475 $E/F ** Chapelco Ski, Belgrano 869 AEFGJLPUV @ 427480fax $E/F ** Crismalu, R. Roca 975 AEFGJLPSUV E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 427283 fax $F/G ** Intermonti, General Villegas 717 LP @ 427454 $G/H ** Nevegal, San Martín 817 AEFGJLPSUV @ 427320/484 $E ** Rosa de los Viajes, San Martín 821 E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 427320/8425 fax ** Tunqueley, General Roca near Belgrano Fax 428529; E-mail: www.7lagos.com AEFGJLPSUV @ 428125 $E * Colonos del Sur, Rivadavia 686 AELPSV Fax 427106; E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 427224 $F/G * Turismo, Mascardi 517 AELPV Fax 427692; E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 427592 • Patagonia Plaza, Ave. San Martín near Rivadavia E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 422280

****

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 3 2

2 2

Hosterías *** *** *** *** *** *** ***

Hostal del Esquiador, Colonel Rhode 975 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ El Arbol Duende, Rivadavia 1145 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ El Peñon, Calderón 255 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ La Cheminee, General Roca near Moreno Fax 428087 E-mail: www.7lagos.com ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ La Masia, Obeid 811 near Capitán Drury ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ La Posta del Cazador, San Martín 175 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ La Raclette, Teniente Coronel Pérez 1170 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @

San Martín de los Andes

426

427674 fax

$D/E 2

428401 fax 427941/42

$D/E 2

427617

$C/D 2

427688 fax

$D/E 2

427501 fax

$E/F

2

427664 fax

$E/F

2

NEUQUÉN Accommodation in San Martín de los Andes — continued *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * *

Las Lengas, Teniente Coronel Pérez 1175 Fax 427938; E-mail: www.7lagos.com ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Las Walkirias, Villegas 815 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 428999; E-mail: www.7lagos.com Tisú, San Martín 771 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Anay, Capitán Drury 841 AEFGJLPSUV E-mail: www.7lagos.com del Chapelco, Alte Brown 297 near J del Valle Fax 427097; E-mail: www.7lagos.com AEFGJLPSUV Hostal del Lago, Colonel Rhode 854 AEFGJLPSUV Nevada, Moreno 590 AEFGJLPSUV Villa Biby, Colonel Díaz 1186 AEFGJLPSUV Fax 427206 Cumelén, Elordi 931 AELPSV El Pinito, Meliquina 412 AELPSV Hueney Ruca, Obeid near Teniente Coronel Pérez AELPV Las Lucarnas, Pérez 632 AELPSV Fax 427985 Peumayen, San Martín 851 AELPSV

Residenciales &

A A A A

Casa Alta, G. Obeid 659 Italia, Teniente Coronel Pérez 977 Laura, Mascardi 632 Los Pinos, Alte. Brown 420

LP LP ELPS

@

427659

$D/E 2

@ @

428307 427231

$C/D 2 $D/G 2

@

427514 fax

$F/G 2

@ @ @

427610 427598 427301

$E/F 2 $F 2 $F/G 2

@ @ @ @

427252 427304 fax 426522 427499 fax

$E/F $G $G/H $D/E

2 2 2 2

@ @

427085 427232 fax

$E/F $E/F

2 2

@ @ @ @

427456 427590 427271 427207

$G 2 $G/H 2 $G/H 2

Cabañas The prices indicated are for groups. The size of the group is given after the price. *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * * *

Arco Iris, Los Cipreses 1850 ABCDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 428533 fax Claro del Bosque, Belgrano 1083 ABCDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 427451 Club Woodland, Rivadavia 1173 ABCDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 428384/449 Humo Azul, R. Roca 618 ABCDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 427699 Le Village, General Roca 816 near Drury Fax 427120 ABCDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 427698 fax Ojo del Agua, Teniente Coronel Pérez 1179 near Almirante Brown ABCDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 427302 fax Trabunche, Obeid 934 ABCDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 428352 fax Catalanas, Almte Brown 351 @ 427161 del Abuelo, Los Cipreses 1541 AEFGJLPUV @ 427539 del Bosque, P Moreno 1450 AEFGJLPUV @ 427607 del Lácar, Cnel Rhode 1144 AEFGJLPUV @ 427679 del Lago, Ave. Costanera 850 AEFGJLPUV Fax 427899 del Rincón, Teniente Coronel Pérez 1144 AEFGJLPUV Vista del Lago, Coronel Díaz 1125 AEFGJLPUV de la Isla, Los Cipreses 1700 AELPV del Chapelco, Brown 207 near Coronel Díaz AELPV del Silencio, Rivadavia 1244 near Brown AELPV Lelena, Cnel. Díaz 1162

427

@ @ @ @ @ @ @

427899 427144 427542 427821 427610 427915 428274

$D

2

$D

4

$B/C

4

$C/E

4

$A/D 4 $B/C $B/D

6 6

$E $B/D

6 4

$B/D $C/D $D/E $D/E $D/F $C/D

5 7 6 4 6 7

San Martín de los Andes

PATAGONIA Accommodation in San Martín de los Andes — continued Accommodation in Suburb El Oásis *** ** ***

Apart Hotel Ruca Leufu, RN 234 2 km ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Turn at Koessler block 2500 Hostería Parque Los Andes, RN 234 AEFGJLPUV Cabañas El Oásis, Quinta 5 lote 16 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

@

427367

@ @

428211 428235 fax

$C/D 6 $F 2 $C/D 2

Accommodation in Altos de San Martín *****

**

Hotel Sol de los Andes, RP 19 Overlooks the town.

ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$STUVXYZ

Cabañas Altos del Ocho, Pirén 167

AEFGJLPUV

@ @

427460/68 428277 fax

$C/D 2 $E 5

Accommodation in Villa Lago Loglog Villa Lago Loglog is located five kilometer north of San Martín. ***

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

Cabañas Lago Loglog,

Plaza Sarmiento

GRAL . VILLEGAS

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

P. MORENO

SARMIENTO

AVE.GRAL . ROCA

northern shores of Cerro Bandurias and Península Yuco, and Isla Santa Teresita. The trip continues through La Angostura channel (also called “La Unión”) into Lago Nonthué, and

10 9

ELORDI

•

18

N

13 14

19

21

17 20

16

15 BELGRANO

30

34

31

35

37

28 29 40 26 32 39 27 CAP. DRURY

33

36

E

38

$

41

47 50

45 46 C

I

J.M. DE ROSAS

51 48 52

CNEL PEREZ D

E. FREY

$ 60

61

64 65

62 58

59 63 M. MORENO 71

73 75

4

stops ashore briefly to visit the Cha-Chin falls. There is a stop for lunch at Hua Hum; it is only 2 km to the Chilean border from here. From Hua Hum you can continue into Chile. See also the companion volume Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island “Region IX de la Araucania”. The return trip after lunch includes a short visit to the mineral springs at Quila-Quina. You arrive back in San Martín at about 17:30. Take plenty of film with you. Fares: $35.00; National park admission separate Ferry services to Quila-Quina. There are six services daily first boat leaves at 10:30 and passes Catritre and Cerro Abanico beaches before docking at Puerto Quila-Quina. Here you can visit the mineral springs and nearby rock paintings. There is also a tearoom here, the Casa de Te El Establo. Last return trip to San Martín is 20:30. Return fare: $10.00

Artesanías • Artesanías Neuquinos, J.M. de Rosas 770 • Artesanías Arauz, M. Moreno 1197

74 72 RIVADAVIA 78

San Martín de los Andes

$D/E

San Martín de los Andes is situated in an area where many Mapuche villages produce authentic mapuche fabrics; because the area receives a fair amount of rain it abounds in edible mushrooms; the locals produce sweets especially alfajores and pates.

53

49

426460 fax

Y Shopping

55 54

44

Centro Civico

@

428

NEUQUÉN R Air services from San Martín de los Andes

Chapelco airport is some 20 km outside town on RN 234. The airport can only handle small planes. • Austral, Avenida San Martín 890 near Belgrano @ 427003 • L.A.D.E., General Roca 636 @ 427672 • TANSE, Belgrano 760 @ 427872 fax ° Buenos Aires (3 hrs); 4–5 weekly ° Cutral Co via Zapala; 1 weekly ° Comodoro Rivadavia via Bariloche, El Bolsón, El Maitén, Esquel, and José de San Martín; 1 weekly

p Sightseeing

Ceramics • Cerámicas del Bosque Encantado, Los Cipreses 2111 Chocolates • Mamusia, San Martín 601 near M Moreno • Fenoglio, San Martín 836

•

•

a Sport Skiing • Cerro Chapelco. Facilities include 32 chair-lifts and ski-tows. The slopes and snow conditions here are excellent • Club Andino San Martín, Capitán Drury block 800 near Villegas

Key to map A C D E I

Iglesia San José Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica de España Secretaría Municipal de Turismo

3 Accommodation

18 27 28 35 36 37 40 41 44 48 50 53 58 64 71 72

Hotel Caupolicán Hotel Le Village Hotel Tunqueley Hostería Peumayen Hotel Nevegal Hotel Chapelco Ski Hotel Rosa de los Viajes Hostería Las Walkirias Hostería Las Lucarnas Hostería Tisú Hostería Anay Residencial Villa Lago Hostería Nevada Hotel Chatelet Hostería La Cheminee Hotel Colonos del Sur

4 Eating out

26 Restaurant Radal

Museo Regional Municipal San Martín de los Andes (San Martin de los Andes Regional Municipal Museum), Pasaje Juan Manuel de Rosas. Mineralogy, history and Mapuche artefacts Instituto Patagonico de Sciencias Naturales, Coronel Rhode 1351. Insects, plants, birds, rocks and paleontology from the area are represented

s Excursions Tour operators • Badino Turismo, e-mail: [email protected]; organizes

33 49 51 52 54 55 63 65 74

Confitería Peperone Restaurant La Mendieta Restaurant Paprika Restaurant El Ciervo Restaurant Mi Viejo Pepe Restaurant Las Catalinas Restaurant La Tasca Restaurant El Derby Restaurant La Fondue de Betty 75 Restaurant Piscis 78 Restaurant Club Lácar

19 21 29 31

9 Sights

45 Museo Regional

0 Services

5 Entertainment

13 32 34 38 39

6 Airline offices

46 47 59

9 Pub Ku 14 La Taberna 15 T.A.N.S.E. 20 L.A.D.E. 30 Austral

7 Tour operators and car rental

Pucará Viajes y Turismo Localiza Rent a Car Tunqueley Turismo Chapelco Turismo

60 61 62 73

Farmacia Austral Fenoglio Mountain Ski Shop Laverap Cambio Andina International Artesanías Neuquinos Farmacia Lácar Intendencia Parque Nacional Lanín Banco de la Nación Foto Thuman Mamusia Austria Sky Ranch

10 Avis 16 Ruca Huelun 17 Tiempo Patagonico

429

San Martín de los Andes

PATAGONIA leave at 08:30. It is also a good trip to do by car, especially if you want to explore side routes. Soon after you pass through Junín de los Andes, the cone of Volcán Lanín looms on the left. This volcano is 3776 m high and usually snow-covered all year round. (If you are bound for Chile the turn-off to Paso Tromen is on the left, about five minutes’ drive out of Junín de los Andes. It is called RP 60 but is little more than a dirt track.) The valley flattens out after a while, but you can see the snow-capped cordillera in the background. This mountain range forms a natural border between Argentina and Chile. The flatter land here is suited to grazing, and this is rich cattle country. At La Rinconada the road meets RN 40 and follows it north. At this point it is still 173 km to Zapala. You then begin to climb the Cuesta La Rinconada, a steep winding road which has been gouged out of the mountain-side. Once you have negotiated the small pass at the top there are sweeping views of the valley to the left—try to get a seat on the left-hand side of the bus if you can. The land up here is almost bare; you can see cows and horses grazing, but about all that grow are low shrubs and isolated clumps of grass. After this the road deteriorates, and ends up on a plain, or meseta. A little further on, an Isaura service station marks the junction with RP 24. It is a 20 km trip to Las Coloradas on this road, and you can continue through Las Coloradas to Bajada Rahue, and Aluminé, via part of Parque Nacional Laguna Blanca. At Fortín Mayo the main San Martín–Zapala road meets RP 46. The people in this region are still predominately Indian. After the junction with RP 46, RN 40 becomes a dirt road. This area is quite remote: at Aguada Florencia the only building is the A.C.A. service station and cafeteria. The hills are bare, and even though the road is sealed after Aguada Florencia, it is full of pot-holes: be prepared for a bumpy ride. The turn-off to Parque Nacional Laguna Blanca is 10 km before Zapala, and from here on the road

vacation trips in the cordillera staying in cabins • El Claro, Villegas 977 @ 428876 fax; email: [email protected]; conventional excursions in the area and Pucón, Chile on Thursdays, a two-day trip. English spoken • El Refugio Tours, San Martín 436 • Chapelco Turismo, Avenida San Martín 876 @ 427550 • Grupo Tres de Turismo, San Martín 1176 @ 428453 fax 428041 • Ici Viajes, Villegas 590 @ 427800; trekking, fishing, rafting, 4WD excursions • Jorge Cardillo, tour guide, Gral. Roca 626 @ 428372; e-mail:www.7lagos. com/smandes • Klap Alejandro, tour guide, Elordi 114 @ 427564; e-mail: aleklap @smandes.com.ar • Luz de Luna, Cnel Diaz 1195 @ 428373 fax; horse-riding, fishing trips, trekking • Navegación Lago Lácar @ 427682. Book at the pier or at the bus terminal • Pehuenia de Turismo, Juez del Valle 611 @ 427862 fax 427121 • Pucará Viajes y Turismo, San Martín 943 @ 427218; rafting • Tiempo Patagonico, Avenida San Martín 950 @ 427113 fax 427114 Excursions • Parque Nacional Lanín: This national park, is in a spectacular setting. It is situated in high country, and extends to the summit of Volcán Lanín on the border with Chile. This volcano is snow-covered all year round and has numerous thermal springs. The park contains many lakes and rivers providing excellent trout fishing and canoeing. There is hiking and mountaineering on Volcán Lanín. The plentiful wildlife includes boars, deer, pudu, pumas, and wildcats • Climbing Cerro Malho 2000 m: This can be classified as an easy climb or a hard walk. The starting point is the village of Hua Hum. The climb takes 9 hrs; cost of mountain guide: $50.00. Views are superb • Zapala: The four-hour trip is very scenic and highly recommended. Transportes Ko Ko and Empresa El Petróleo both provide services which San Martín de los Andes

430

NEUQUÉN S Buses from San Martín de los Andes

The bus terminal is on the corner of General Villegas 251 near Juez del Valle; @ 4427044. Bus companies • Empresa Igi Llaimi @ 4427750 and Empresa San Martín @ 427294 operate 5 services weekly to and from Chile. Destinations include Temuco, Pucón, and Villarrica. These buses start operating in mid-November and finish in May. • Albus @ 428100 ° Villa Traful (S13.00; 3 hrs) 1 daily • Andesmar @ 427750 • Buses Pirehueico @ 428799; to Chile • Centenario S.R.L. @ 428799 ° Neuquén ($28.00; 7 hrs) 2 daily • El Petróleo @ 427750 ° Aluminé ($11.00; 21 2 hrs); 1 weekly ° Junín de los Andes ($3.00; 3 4 hour); 3 daily ° Neuquén ($28.00; 7 hrs); 3 daily ° Zapala ($17.60; 4 hrs); 2 daily • Empresa San Martín @ 428508; to Chile ° Junín de los Andes ($3.00; 1 2 hour); 2–3 daily ° Lago Huechulafquen ($9.00); 1 daily ° Lago Lolog ($2.00); 3 daily • Igi Llaima @ 427750; to Chile • La Estrella @ 427750 • La Puntual @ 428508 • La Unión del Sud @ 428581 ° Neuquén ($28.00; 7 hrs); 3 daily ° Villa La Angostura • Pampa @ 427750 • T.A.C. @ 428788 • T.A. Chevallier @ 427422 • TUS @ 427750 • Transportes Ko Ko @ 427422 ° Lago Lolog ($2.00); 3 daily • Vía Bariloche @ 427750 Long-distance services • •

Destination Bariloche Buenos Aires

Fare $22.00 $90.00

Services 5 daily 2–3 daily

• • • • • • • • • •

Córdoba $90.00 Mar del Plata Mendoza Pucón (Chile) Río Gallegos Rosario San Juan Santa Rosa Temuco (Chile) $25.00 Villa La Angostura $10.00

Wednesday 1 daily 1 daily 6 weekly

•

Villarrica (Chile)

4 weekly

Mon., Thurs. 6 weekly 4 weekly

Duration Company 51 2 hrs Ko-Ko, TUS, Vía Bariloche 23 hrs La Puntual, T.A. Chevallier, Centenario, T.A.C., Vía Bariloche 25 hrs TUS La Unión del Sud Andesmar, T.A.C. Igi Llaima T.A.C. T.A. Chevallier T.I.C.S.A T.A. Chevallier, Pampa 8 hrs San Martín, Igi Llaima 3 hrs Andesmar, Centenario, La Unión del Sud, Transportes Ko-ko Igi Llaima

431

San Martín de los Andes

PATAGONIA

•

improves. There is usually a strong wind blowing over the meseta here, and the Andes, which were receding from view up to now, begin to loom larger again. See also Zapala on page 439 Bariloche: Local buses take the longer, partially paved road via Junín de los Andes because it is open all year round. But the most scenic route is RN 234, via Villa La Angostura. The tour buses take 10 hours to do the 200 km journey, and en route pass Lago Meliquina, Lago Falkner, Lago Traful, and Lago Espejo, where RN 234 joins RN 231 coming from Chile. From here on the road skirts the shores of beautiful Lago Nahuel Huapí. It is worth spending some time at Villa La Angostura to explore the surrounding countryside. Local

•

•

• •

buses operate services from here to Chile and Bariloche. See also Villa La Angostura below Rafting Río Hua Hum. This trip takes you into Chile, so a passport is required. Rafting guides make two trips per day: 11:00 and 15:00. Take an early ferry from San Martín. The rafting trip takes 3 hrs; cost $35.00 Rafting Río Meliquina. This trip starts from Lago Meliquina and is either a half day excursion ($45.00) or a full day excursion. The starting point is 50 km south of San Martín Paso Puyehue on the border, to Osorno and Puerto Montt To Pucón and Villarrica in Chile via Paso Tromen (or Paso de Mamuil Malal) and Junín de los Andes; this is a two to three day trip

VILLA LA ANGOSTURA

Villa La Angostura Population: 4000 Postal code: 8407 @ area code: (02944) Altitude: 845 m Distances • From Neuquén: 384 km west on RN 22, RN 237 and RN 231 • From Bariloche: 80 km north-west on RN 231

V

illa La Angostura is a small and picturesque tourist resort on the northern shore of Lago Nahuel Huapí. Villa La Angostura is the beginning of the scenic Seven Lakes route to San Martín de los Andes and the equally scenic drive to Chile. Excellent tourist facilities spread beyond the nucleus of the town center towards Lago Correntoso and Puerto Manzano, and nearby is the skiing area of Cerro Bayo. Activities include fishing, and hiking excursions to the Siete Lagos region.

B Tourist information •

• • • •

D Camping

• •

Secretaría de Turismo y Cultura, Ave. Siete Lagos 26 @ 494124 fax Bosques y Parques Provinciales, O. de Nevares @ 494157 Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, Nahuel Huapi @ 494152 Asociación de Guías, El Michay @ 494058 Cerro Bayo S.A. Avenida Corrientes 456 @ 494310 fax

Villa La Angostura

El Cruce, RN 231 @ 494145 Municipal Lago Correntoso

E Eating out Eating out in El Cruce Restaurants • Bianchi, Las Retamas near Topa Topa • Cahuil Pizza, Avenida Arrayanes 66 • Dixi, Avenida Arrayanes 176

432

NEUQUÉN C Accommodation in Villa La Angostura

It is possible to stay with families in private houses—check the tourist office for details. Villa La Angostura has two sections: El Cruce the main part of town and La Villa on the shores of Lago Nahuel Huapi. Accommodation in El Cruce Cabañas De Alicia, Web site: www.bungalowsdealicia.com.ar ** La Posta del Cumelen, AEFGJLPUV E-mail: [email protected] * de la Villa, Calafate AELPV * Rancho Bayo, RN 231 near Araucanos AELPV • Akermann, Río Litrán, Sector Lomas del Correntoso E-mail: [email protected] • El Viejo Marquez, Chos Malal near Pehuenes

***

@

494474

@ @

494727 fax 494481

@

494825

@

494717

Hosterías ** Las Piedritas, Huemul near RN 231 AEFGJLPUV

@

494222

$F/G 2

Verena’s Haus, Los Taiques AEFGJLPUV E:mail: [email protected]

@

494467

$E/F

2

@ @

494269 494110

$G

2

494217 494224 fax 494193

$D/E 2 $E/F 2 $G 2

**

$E

4

Residenciales

A Don Pedro, Cerro Belvedere near Los Maquis ELPS • Río Bonito, Topa Topa

Accommodation in La Villa Apart Hotel Los Tres Mosqueteros, Ave. Nahuel Huapi 2161 AELPV @ * Hotel La Angostura, Ave. Nahuel Huapi 1911 AELPSV @ A Residencial La Granja, Nahuel Huapi LP @ *

Cabañas *** **

Bahía Brava, Ave. Nahuel Huapi La Ruma, Boulevard Quetrihué

Accommodation in Bahía Las Balsas Hosterías *** ***

Calihue, Las Balsas,

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AEFGJLPUV

@ @

494229/135 494556

$D $D/E

4 4

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY

@ @

494394 494308

$C $B

2 2

@

494424

$F

2

@ @

494086 494737

$G

2

@ @

494450 fax 494573 fax

$D/E 2 $E/F 2

@

494377

$E/F

@

494484/361

$C/D 4

Accommodation on RN 231 to Lago Correntoso

Hotel Correntoso, Ave. Siete Lagos KM 3 AELPSV Cabañas La Villa del Montanés, Ave. Siete Lagos KM 1.7 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY A Residencial Nahuel, RN 231 near Huilliches ELPS

*

***

Hosterías *** **

La Posada, KM 1.5 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Las Nieves, Ave. Siete Lagos KM 1 AEFGJLPUV

Accommodation on Lago Correntoso *** **

Hostería Cuyen Co ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Apart Hotel Lomas del Correntoso, Lumilla 21 AEFGJLPUV

433

2

Villa La Angostura

PATAGONIA Accommodation in Villa La Angostura — continued Cabañas ** **

Lihuén, RN 231 KM 4 Fax 494479/801 Unelén, Villa Correntoso

Accommodation on Lago Espejo ***

Hostería Mountain Place,

AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV

@ @

494564 494386

$E/F $C

2 4

ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY

@

494583

$D

2

$E

4

Accommodation Puerto Manzano

Cabañas Recodo del Bonito, AELPV @ 494479 fax Apart Hotel Bahía Manzano, Ave. Arrayanes ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ Fax 494344 @ 494307/043 @ 494904 fax • Hostería Dos Bahías, Puerto Manzano ACDKPT @ 494729 • Hostería Los Duendes, Puerto Manzano

*

****

Accommodation close to skiing area

• Cabañas Arc en Ciel, 1 km to Cerro Bayo AFHV

• El Esquiador, Las Retamas 146 • El Montanés, Avenida Arrayanes 45 • Il Postino, Las Fucsias 113 • La Recova, Avenida Arrayanes 51 • Lado Sur, Los Taiques • Las Varas, Avenida Arrayanes 235 • Le Pifie, Las Frambuesas 354 • Nevada, Avenida Arrayanes • Siete Lagos, Avenida Arrayanes 130 • Verena’s Haus, Los Taiques. Cafeterías • La Casita de Oma, Cerro Inacayal 303 • Rincón Suizo, Avenida Arrayanes 44 Eating out in La Villa • Restaurant El Messidor, Neuquén • Cafetería Los Tres Mosqueteros, Villa La Angostura Eating out along RN 231 to Lago Correntoso • Restaurant Aire Libre, Avenida Siete Lagos • Restaurant Las Nieves • Restaurant Nahuel • Restaurant Pizza Franca • Cafetería Waldhaus Eating out in Puerto Manzano • Cafetería Arrayanes, RN 231 KM 9 East Eating out on Cerro Bayo • Chaltén • Deck 18 • El Tronador, 1500 m

Villa La Angostura

@

494576

$D/E 2

$D/E 2

n Entertainment

• • • •

Bowling La Taberna, Las Retamas 418 Disco Mimos, Las Retamas 146 Disco La Carpintería, Las Frambuesas 59 Pub Malgari, Avenida Arrayanes 59

I Post and telegraph

• •

Correo Argentino, Avenida Siete Lagos 26 Telefónica de Argentina, O. de Nevares 56

L Financial

•

Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén, Avenida Arrayanes 172 @ 494180/433

M Services

• • • •

Bicycle hire: Angostura Bike, Las Fucsias 237 Fishing and camping gear: Banana Fly Shop, Avenida Arrayanes 282 Horse riding: El Establo, RN 231 KM 2.5 Ski hire: Class, Ave. Arrayanes 173 @ 494411

U Motoring Car rental • Angostura Turismo, Avenida Arrayanes 235 @ 494405 • Localiza, Belvedere 66 @ 494223 fax • Puerto Car, Los Notros @ 494551 Service station • A.C.A., Avenida Arrayanes @ 494168

434

NEUQUÉN S Buses from Villa La Angostura

The bus terminal is in Avenida Siete Lagos 26 @ 494095. • Algarrobal, Ave. Arrayanes 152 @ 494360 ° Bariloche ($6.50, 2 hrs); 2 daily ° Cerro El Bayo; 3 daily • Andesmar ° Neuquén ($30.00) ° San Martín de los Andes ($11.00; 3 hrs); 3 weekly • Centenario S.R.L. @ 494124 Villa La Angostura ° San Martín de los Andes ($11.00; 3 hrs) • El Petróleo @ 494322, Los Taiques Villa La Angostura ° Junín de los Andes via San Martín de los Andes; 3 weekly • Ko–Ko @ 494322; Los Taiques, Villa La Angostura ° San Martín de los Andes ($11.00; 3 hrs); 1 daily in Jan–Feb. Scenic trip • La Unión del Sud @ 494322, Los Taiques Villa La Angostura ° Junín de los Andes (31 2 hrs, $14.00) via San Martín de los Andes ($11.00; 3 hrs); 3 weekly ° Neuquén ($30.00; 12 hrs); 3 weekly • TAS Choapa, Ave. Arrayanes 152 @ 494572 ° Osorno (Chile); 4 hrs ° Puerto Montt (Chile); 6 hrs Bus Norte and T.A. Mercedes also run buses to Chile; altogether there are 6 services daily to various destinations in southern Chile.

# Water transport

tween the top of the run and its base is 600 m; the inclination of slopes is 35°. The length of the ski runs is 1800 m; longest descent is 650 m. The skiing area is 80 ha (198 acres).

There are excursion boats on Lago Nahuel Huapí.

a Sport Golf • Cumelén Country Club, @ 43824507/4352968 Skiing The ski area of Cerro Bayo, altitude 1780 m, is located 13 km north-east of Villa La Angostura, inside the Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapí. Six km off the main road is RN 231, which leads to Cerro Bayo via the shores of Lago Nahuel Huapí. Cerro Bayo’s easterly outlook makes skiing conditions perfect from June to September, the official skiing season. During that period the snow is dry and compact, but varies between powder and wet. The skiing slopes practically finish up on Lago Nahuel Huapí. They are suitable for intermediate to advanced skiers. There is a refugio at the base (1050 m), with a cafeteria, ski hire, repairs, cloak room, and a ski school run by the Ski Club Villa La Angostura.

There are two double chair lifts, six T–bars and two baby lifts carrying 4500 skiers per hour. Daily lift tickets are $20–$25.00; ski hire $15.00 per day. From the base at 1050 m to 1492 m is the area for beginners and intermediate skiers length 1350 m; advanced skiers can go up to 1600 m. The café at the top (1500 m) offers light meals. There are regular shuttle bus services between Villa La Angostura and the ski base.

p Sightseeing

•

Museo Histórico Regional (Regional History Museum), Nahuel Huapi

s Excursions Tour operators • Angostura Turismo, Avenida Arrayanes @ 494405 • Sur del Neuquén, Los Notros near Ave. Arrayanes @ 494551/4663

The snow cover is 10 cm at the base and 80 cm at 1500 m. The height difference be435

Villa La Angostura

PATAGONIA Laguna Verde

QUE

T R IH

UE

VILLA LA ANGOSTURA PUERTO

B O U LE

VIR

GE

N

L DE

AA

SU

NC

VARD

IÓN

NEU

QUÉ

N

N

PIL

MA

YQ

UE

N

BOUL EVAR

C. PI LQ UE N

D QU E T R IH UE NAH UEL HUA PI

L ago Nahuel Huapi

L ago Nahuel Huapi

Excursions • Parque Nacional Los Arrayanes : Located on Península Quetrihue which juts out into Lago Nahuel Huapi for 12 km. It can be reached on foot or is part of a cruise on the lake. This national park was created to preserve the unique arrayanes tree which is only found here at the southern tip of the peninsula and on the northern part of Isla Victoria in Lago Nahuel Huapi. The tree has a slow stunted growth and only reaches a height of 20 m • Lago Nahuel Huapi cruises: These boat cruises include also Parque

Villa La Angostura

Key to maps A C D E I $ T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Post Office & Telex Telephone Tourist information Money exchange Bus terminals

3 Accommodation 4 Eating out 0 Cruise ships

436

NEUQUÉN To Chile and San Martín de los Andes

S SI ET LA

o Las

SA

MBU

AYA

ESA

NE

S

S

U IS

To Neuquén and Bariloche

FRA

RR

r it a s

LAS

. LO

P ie d

CERRO INCAYAL

CERRO BELVEDERE

NAHUEL HUAPI

LO S M A Q

AVE

RUCACHAROI

S

I

Arroy

GO D

E A

C S IA S

LOS NOTROS

E

E

LAS FU

AS

MUL

LO C

LAS MUTISIAS

TOPA TOPA

E.

N

E TA M

HUE

AV

LAS R

LOS TAIQUES

EL MICHAY To La Villa EL CALAFATE

LAS FRUTILLAS

VILLA LA ANGOSTURA CENTRO

•

LAS MOSQUETAS

Nacional Los Arrayanes on Península Quetrihue and Isla Victoria Lago Correntoso and Lago Espejo. Taking RN 231 west towards the Chilean border, Lago Correntoso is located 5 km west of town. This is one of the most scenic lakes in the Seven Lakes region. The Río Correntoso is the outlet of the lake into Lago Nahuel Huapi and is only a few hundred metres long. This short river is frequented by fishermen. A bridge spans the river and as the road winds up towards the pass the vistas are

•

437

superb. Three kilometers past the bridge the road forks and you descend to Lago Espejo which is equally beautiful. This excursion is an easy hiking trip — 14 km one way; one leg can be made by local bus. Tour operators organize day trips from Villa la Angostura to most of the lakes in the Siete Lagos region, including San Martín de los Andes. It is also possible to use regional bus services — refer to bus schedules above Lago Pueyhué in Chile: Tour operators organize day trips to Chile. These

Villa La Angostura

PATAGONIA Puyehué before continuing on to either Osorno or Refugio Antillanca on Volcán Casablanca. The border pass is called Paso Cardenal Samore by Argentina and Paso Puyehué by the Chileans

scenic trips first go through Parque Nacional Arrayanes on the Argentine side and through the Parque Nacional Puyehué on the Chilean side. At the Chilean border control post you have superb views of Volcán Puyehué. Organized bus tours usually make a stop at Termas de

VILLA TRAFUL

Villa Traful Postal code: 8403 @ area code: (02944) Distances From Neuquén: 402 km west • From Bariloche: 100 north on RN 237 then RP 67 •

L

ocated on the southern shore of picturesque Lago Traful, Villa Traful is very popular with holiday-makers in summer.

E Eating out

The first settlers arrived here in the late 1800s. There are restrictions imposed on developments as the town is completely inside Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi.

• • • • •

B Tourist information •

Oficina de Informes Turísticos, @ 479020

M Services

•

C Accommodation

El Ciervo Mini Shopping

S Buses

Hostería Rincón del Pescador, RP 65 AEFGJLPUV @ 479027/8 fax $E 2 * Hostería Villa Traful, RP 65 ABELPSTV; also cabins @ 479005/6 fax $H 1 * Cabañas Aiken Traful, RP 65 AELPV @ 479026 $E 4; also camping * Cabañas Walnor, RP 65 AELPV @ 479023; also camping • Cabañas Vulcanche @ 479061; also camping Accommodation outside Villa Traful ** Hostería La Gruta de Las Virgenes, RN 237 KM 300 AEFGJLPUV @ 420449 fax 422800 $F for 4 • Estancia Río Traful; e-mail: [email protected] **

Villa Traful

Restaurant Rincón del Pescador, Hostería Rincón del Pescador, Villa Traful. Regional cuisine Restaurant Le Muguet, RP 65 Restaurant Ñancu Lahuen Restaurant Sol Americano Restaurant Vulcanche

•

Transporte Arrayanes, Empresa Setur, Empresa Albus ° Bariloche ($10.00, 21 2 hrs) 1 daily ° San Martín de los Andes ($14.00; 3 hrs); 1 daily. Scenic trip ° Villa La Angostura ($8.00; 11 2 hrs); 2 daily

s Excursions

•

•

438

Lake and fishing excursions are organized by Hostería Rincón del Pescador, Hostería Villa Traful, Cabañas Walnor; also by Raúl Quellín and Oswald Brendermann Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapí park with its numerous lakes is recommended for hiking. You can camp anywhere in the park

NEUQUÉN

ZAPALA

Zapala Population: 32 000 Postal code: 8340 @ area code: (02942) Altitude: 1012 m Distance from Neuquén: 185 km west on RN 22

Z

apala was founded in 1913, and is located on a high plateau within easy reach of the western Andes in the center of the province. It is an important road junction: here RN 40, which runs north–south, intersects with RN 22, which runs east–west. Much industry has been established here in recent years. Zapala has an excellent natural history museum and a ceramics school. For tourists it is the starting point for trips to the snow-fields and the Parque Nacional Laguna Blanca. It is also possible to visit the Indian reserves in the area. The main shopping street is San Martín. Also included here is the little village of Las Lajas, primarily because of the extensive cave system found nearby. See Excursions below.

Restaurants • C.I.R.S.E., Italia 139 • Colonial, Ave. Roca 261 • Hue Melen, Brown 929 • Huincul, Roca 315. Parrilla • La Barra, Zeballos 760 • La Zingarella, B Houssay and Paraguay • Las Familias, Ejercito Argentino 455 • MacMazzi, Trannack near L. Monti Cafeterías • Café Sur, Avellaneda • El Chancho Rengo, Etcheluz near San Martín • El Terminal, Uriburu near Etcheluz. Argentine cuisine; open 24 hours Eating out outside Zapala • Restaurant A.C.A., RN 22, 3 km from the town center on the Neuquén side

B Tourist information •

Oficina Municipal de Turismo, Avenida San Martín, between Avenida Chaneton and Mayor Torres, on the center strip @ 421938. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–13:00 and 17:00–20:00

C Accommodation

Hotel Hue Melén, Brown 929 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 4222414/422407 fax $F 2 ** Hotel Nuevo Pehuén, Etcheluz near Elena de la Vega AEFGJLPUV @ 423135 $G 2 A Residencial Coliqueo, Etcheluz 159 LP @ 421308 $H 2 A Residencial Huincul, Roca 313 LP @ 431422 $G 2 ***

n Entertainment

• • •

D Camping •

Cine Teatro Municipal Disco Arenas, 12 de Julio near RN 22 Disco Komplot, Etcheluz near San Martín

I Post and telegraph

Camping Municipal, Godoy 702. Capacity 20 tents on 1 ha A. No charge

•

E Eating out

•

Pizzerías • Negro El 55, Ejercito Argentino 648 • Pizzería Tío Paco, Trannack near Brown • Z, Avellaneda 445

Post office: Correo Argentino, Ejercito Argentino near Etcheluz Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Italia 248

L Financial

•

439

Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén, Chaneton 460; major bank cards Zapala

PATAGONIA To Neuquén

9 DE

J U L IO MALVINAS ARGENTINAS 22

BOLIVIA

To Chos Malal and Mendoza

HOUS SAY

TRANNACK

URUGUAY

NAMUNCURÁ 1 B. MITRE

ESPAÑA

BELGRANO

LIBANO

GARAYTA

CHILE

CANDELARIA

3 2 PARAGUAY

MONTI

4 I

40

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

$

I

5 6

E ITALIA

C 10

8

7

9 ZEBALLOS

SO 16

NO

MA

Y

HI

UI

EG

NQ

AM

LO

LARREA

17

CHICLANA

PICUNCHES

ELORDI

15

AVE. EJERCITO ARGENTINO

OLASCOAGA

T

ETCHELUZ

CHANETON

URIBURU

PRIMERA JUNTA

TRIUNVIARTO

To Chos Malal and Copahue

12 DE JULIO

14

J.J. PASO

M. MORENO MAYOR TORRES

O

ALMTE BROWN

UCH

A

AYA C

.S

G PA

13

AVE. J.A . ROCA

IA

ELENA DE LA VEGA

PE

M

12 11

AVE. AVELLANEDA

R

A

Y TR

22

ALBERDI

N

13

To Aluminé and Primeros Pinos

ZARRATEA

LOPEZ Y PLANES

BLAS PARERA

ZAPALA

40

To Junín de los Andes and Villa La Angostura

Zapala

440

NEUQUÉN •

M Services and facilities •

Photography: Foto Luz, Avellaneda 537 Laundromat: Laverap, Uriburu block 400 near Avenida Avellaneda Ski hire: El Ciervo Rojo, Brown 342

• •

p Sightseeing

•

R Air services

The Airport is on RN40 near the junction with RP 46 @ 421879. • L.A.D.E., Uriburu 371 near M Etcheluz @ 430134 • TANSE Galería López Camelo

U Motoring

In winter the direct route from San Martín de los Andes to Neuquén may not be open. The alternative route goes via La Rinconada. • Service station: Y.P.F., corner of Avenida Avellaneda and Ejercito Argentino

Y Shopping •

•

Tour operators • Empresa de Viajes y Turismo Zapala, Coronel Vidal 462 @ 421363 Excursions • Las Lajas: 55 km north-west on RP 23. In the little mountain range of Cuchillo Curá 12 km south of town are four cave systems which have been explored by a group of interested locals. The four systems are: Caverna del Templo (1300 m) Caverna del Gendarme (1700 m), Caverna del Arenal (700 m), and Caverna de los Cabritos (80 m). All caves show traces of human

a Sport •

Fishing: There is good fishing for perch in the Río Agrio. At this point the river has lost its salinity because of the number of freshwater streams flowing into it. The best spots are between Arroyo Codihue and Bajada del Agrio

Key to map A C E I

$ T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Telefónica de Argentina Oficina Municipal de Turismo Banco del a Provincia del Neuquén Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 9 13 14

Hotel Hue Melén Residencial Huincul Hotel Nuevo Pehuén Residencial Coliqueo

4 Eating out 2 5 8 10 12 17

Museo Profesor Dr Augusto Olsacher, Olascoaga 421. This is a wonderful geology museum, with a priceless collection of minerals, fossils, shells, and rocks. Its collection attracts many experts from foreign countries. Among the prize exhibits is the complete crocodile-like jaw of a species of dinosaur called the peyrosaurus, which roamed the wetlands of Argentina 80-odd million years ago. There is also a fossilized fish from the Silurian era whose scales are impregnated with copper, and part of a meteorite found in Moravia

s Excursions

Escuela de Cerámica, Luis Monti 240. The ceramics school here produces high quality ceramics, and some very skilful weaving in the Indian style Artesanías Neuquinas, Houssay. Artesanías La Colmena, Avellaneda. Artesanías

•

Shooting: Permits for hunting stag and wild boar can be obtained at Recursos Naturales, corner of Colonel Vidal and Avenida Avellaneda. A permit for the season costs $25.00

Restaurant La Zingarella Pizzería Z Restaurant C.I.R.S.E. Restaurant La Barra Restaurant Colonial Restaurant Las Familias

6 Airline offices 15 L.A.D.E.

7 Tour operators and car rental 11 Empresa de Viajes y Turismo Zapala

9 Sights 6

0 Services 3 4 7 16

441

Museo Profesor Dr Augusto Olsacher Escuela de Cerámica Foto Luz Ski hire: El Ciervo Rojo Former railroad station

Zapala

PATAGONIA S Buses from Zapala

The bus terminal is on the corner of Etcheluz and Ejercito Argentino. There is a 24–hour cafeteria here, a cloak-room, and clean toilets. The staff in the information office are very helpful. In summer buses to and from Temuco go via Paso Pino Hachado. In winter they go via Paso Puyehue. • Akivi Tours, Zapala ° Primeros Pinos; 1 daily • T.A. Chevallier @ 421481 • El Cóndor @ 421718 • El Petróleo @ 421281 ° Copahue ($11.00); 5 weekly in season ° Loncopué ($7.70; 2 hrs) - El Huecú ($22.00; 7 hrs); 4 weekly ° Neuquén ($9.00; 3 hrs) via Cutral-Có; 11 daily ° San Martín de los Andes (5 hrs, $17.60) via Junín de los Andes ($14.60; 41 2 hrs); 2 daily • La Unión del Sud @ 421363 ° Aluminé ($13.20, 21 4 hrs); 3 weekly ° El Cholar via Covunco, Bajada del Agrio, Paso del Salado, Coihueco, Churriaca, and Chos Malal ($15.40); 2 weekly ° El Huecú (7 hrs, $22.00) via Las Lajas ($2.60; 1 hour), and Loncopué - ; 4 weekly ° Lago Moquehue ($16.50; 4 hrs) via Lago Aluminé (3 hrs); 3 weekly ° Las Lajas ($2.60; 1 hour) via Covunco; 2–3 daily ° Neuquén ($9.00; 3 hrs); 6 daily ° Primeros Pinos($6.60); 2 services weekly in winter ° Tricao Malal ($18.70; 7 hrs) via Chos Malal; 1 weekly • T.A.C., TUS, TICSA, El Pampa Long-distance bus services • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Bahía Blanca Bariloche Buenos Aires Chevallier Córdoba Malargüe Mendoza San Juan San Luis Santa Rosa Temuco (Chile) Viedma

Fare $28.80 $25.00 $65.00

Services 4 daily 3 daily 4 daily

$62.70

1 daily 5 weekly 5 Weekly 3 weekly 3 weekly 2 weekly 4 weekly 3 weekly

$45.00 $31.90 $40.00

Duration 12 hrs 12 hrs 19 hrs

TUS/TUP T.A.C. 151 2 hrs Andesmar, T.A.C. T.I.C.S.A. T.I.C.S.A. TUS/TUP 7 hrs Igi Llaima, Ruta Sur El Valle

occupation going back thousands of years. Of interest is the wildlife living in underground waterways and lakes, which has adopted well to the darkness and never comes to the surface. The caves consist of large caverns linked by tunnels which sometimes are very narrow and low. In the Caverna de los Cabritos are indigenous rock paintings. Outside the cave systems is a large lake which attracts a lot of birdlife. Another cave system is located in the Cordón de

Zapala

Company El Valle T.A.C. Centenario, El Petróleo,T.A.

•

442

Curimil some 15 km from Las Lajas. Cueva del León is at 1300 m and is 1300 m long. Of interest are two large caverns with a small underground lake. There are regular daily buses from Zapala. For further in formation contact Sr. Jorge Alcaraz of the Grupo Espeleológico Lajeño @ 54 (03942) 499155 fax Rock paintings at Portada Covunco: La Unión del Sud bus runs 1–2 services daily to Mariano Moreno 20 km north of Zapala. The site is 4–5 km

NEUQUÉN •

west of this village. Ask villagers for directions Parque Nacional Laguna Blanca: 30 km eastwards on RP 46, which passes through the southern part of the park. This park was established to protect the rare black-necked swans which live here. The area covers a vast 11 250 ha, most of which comprises volcanic flats. There is a biological research station and an observation post here, but the place is serene and undisturbed. The land further back from the lake is rather

•

•

443

dry, and the flora consists mostly of low bushes and thorny plants. Rushes grow around the perimeter of the lake. La Unión del Sud runs 3 buses weekly from Zapala Primeros Pinos: 45 km west on RP 13. This is a recently developed skiing resort. The road is sealed all the way to Primeros Pinos. See Primeros Pinos on page 421 San Martín de los Andes: See Excursions to Zapala from San Martín de los Andes on page 430

Zapala

RÍO

NEGRO RATAGONIA P Río ÍO Negro NEGRO

Plate 8 447 449 451 457 467 468 470 471 471 473 474 478 479 480 480 481 482 483 484 488 489 489 491 494 495

R

Map of Río Negro Province Bariloche BCEnJKLMNPRSTUVW#XYba Map of city center c^efghiopqs Map of city center west Map of surrounding districts Catriel ACEJKILRSUW Cerro Catedral BCEnJKMSabcs^ Choele-Choel CDEJKSUWe Cinco Saltos CEnJKS Cipolletti BCEnJKILMSUWpq El Bolsón ABCDEnJKLMRSUWYabcefp Map qs General Roca BCEnJKRSUWq Ingeniero Jacobacci CRTqt Los Menucos CE Maquinchao CEI Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi BCDebc^esv Puerto Pañuelo CES#is Río Colorado CEJKLSUW San Antonio Oeste BCDEnJKLMRSUTXefhosfv Sierra Grande BCDEISU Valcheta CE Viedma ABCDEnJKLMRSUT#VWXYef o Map pqsv Villa Regina BCEJKSUW Stopovers C

ío Negro covers 203 000 square kilometers (78 000 square miles) and the population is estimated to be around 530 000 inhabitants . It shares borders with Chubut to the south, Neuquén to the west, La Pampa to the 444

RÍO NEGRO north, and Buenos Aires Province to the north-east. In the south-east the Golfo San Matías, with its 400 km of beaches, opens onto the Atlantic Ocean. In the south-west a section shares a common border with Chile along the main chain of the Andes. The capital of Río Negro is Viedma, located some 970 km south of Buenos Aires. Geographically the province can be divided into four distinct zones. These are, from east to west: the coastal zone, the tableland, the pre-Cordillera, and the high Cordillera. Although most of the Atlantic coast consists of fine beaches, with the exception of those located near major settlements (Viedma, San Antonio Oeste, and Punta Colorada) they are not accessible. Near San Antonio Oeste the 45 km strip of white sandy beach is popular for skin-diving. The Atlantic coast from Balneario Bahía Rosas creek southward has good spots for scuba diving and spear fishing. The best time for fishing is from November to February. In the summer months beware of the schools of sharks that come south with the warm currents. The interior of the province is part of the Patagonian Plateau, a vast dry stretch of land with small salt lakes and some canyons, where the rainfall is scanty and few rivers reach the sea. But the area has not always been desert. Millions of years ago it was forested with huge araucaria-like trees. However, a sudden and violent change to the earth’s surface turned the climate of this area from subtropical to dry and caused volcanic eruptions which covered the forests. Nowadays the petrified wood found in the tablelands bears witness to the exuberant growth of the past. There are many archeological sites, mostly rock paintings in caves. Iron ore has been found near

Sierra Grande, and a pelletizing plant converts the crushed ore into concentrates which are shipped through Punta Colorada. Further to the west in the pre-cordillera is some of the most beautiful lake scenery in the world. Most of the lakes are navigable, and include Lago Nahuel Huapi, Lago Mascardi, Lago Gutiérrez. Here are some of the best-known tourist centers of Argentina, such as Bariloche and El Bolsón. In winter these are skiing centers. This is good hiking country with many refugios available to the mountaineer. There are trout and salmonoids in the rivers and lakes and fishing is permitted from November onwards. For most of the year the climate is harsh in the interior of Río Negro. In the Patagonian tableland the temperature in winter can drop as low as –20°C (0°F) and in summer soar to 40°C (106°F) near the coast. The lowest average temperature near the coast is –7°C (26°F). Precipitation is greatest in the Andean zone with up to 5000 mm annually, declining to 300 mm near the coast. The flora and fauna reflect this range of climatic conditions. The Patagonian forests in the high mountains gradually give way to savanna and then to a vegetation adapted to more desert-like conditions. Consequently the animal life also varies. The ostriches living in the mountain areas in the north-east are bigger than their counterparts in the tablelands. Pampas deer, condors, and pumas have almost completely disappeared in the meseta and are now 445

Río Negro

PATAGONIA mostly found in the sierras to the north and west. Guanacos, maras (“Patagonian hares”) and ostriches are plentiful and can frequently be seen from the highways. European hares and foxes have been introduced. Near Punta Bermeja, 60 km south-east of Viedma, is a Reserva Faunística (Animal Reserve) with a seal colony which totals about 3000 animals, the largest influx being in spring when the mating season starts. Sea-lions, sea elephants, and the occasional whale can also be seen. Birdlife is well-represented by numbers of noisy loros barranqueros which nest in the rocky promontories. A further reserve, at Caleta de los Loros 125 km south-east of Viedma, also has a seal colony, albeit not as large as that at Punta Bermeja. Here the main attraction is the birdlife which feeds on the rich marine life found in this part of the Atlantic. The occasional sea lion visits in spring. The reserve is a research station which studies the habits of migratory birds in conjunction with other similar research stations in North America. The province is one of the major fruit producers of Argentina, and most of the orchards are on the banks of the 760 km Río Negro. The pre-Hispanic inhabitants were called Tehuelches. They were hunters and fishers who roamed the pampas for approximately 10 000 years. By the time the Spaniards arrived these original inhabitants had been absorbed by Araucanians coming from the west. This admixture produced a very bellicose population which fiercely resisted the Spanish advance. With the introduction of the horse by the Spaniards the tribes became horse riders. The only

Río Negro

continuous European settlement surviving from 1779 onwards was the urban nucleus of Viedma–Carmen del Patagones. It was an isolated settlement as the only communication possible was by sea. By 1885 the Argentine army had completed its conquest of the desert and the resistance of the indigenous people was broken, and Patagonia was opened up for European immigrants on a large scale.

Andean mountain passes The province’s only pass to neighboring Chile is Paso de Pérez Rosales. This is a scenic tourist circuit from Bariloche to Puerto Montt — and only for tourist buses! The pass, altitude 978 m, one of the lowest passes in the Andes, is 3 km west of Puerto Frías where the Argentine border controls are. In summer this is a one-day excursion; in winter it is a two-day excursion with a stay in the Hotel Peulla, Chile. This scenic drive is described fully in the companion volume Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island “Region X de los Lagos”.

Places of tourist interest. Río Negro Province is dominated by one location: Bariloche. Located in the lakes district in the western corner, it has world-standard tourist facilities and is visited throughout the year: in summer mountaineers, fishermen, and general vacationers; in winter it is a mecca for skiers. Viedma, the capital situated on the coast near the mouth of the Río Negro, is usually by-passed by the general tourist stream heading further south to Las Grutas near San Antonio Oeste, which is developing into quite an attractive beach resort

446

RÍO NEGRO as an alternative to those in Buenos Aires Province. Third in line would be El Bolsón, which also is a summer and winter holiday resort although on a

smaller scale than Bariloche. For the outdoor enthusiast with an interest in archeology the meseta may be of interest — but you need your own 4WD vehicle.

BARILOCHE

Bariloche Population: 80 000 Postal code: 8400 @ area code: (02944) Altitude: 790 m Distances From Buenos Aires: 1649 km south-east on RN 5 then RN 152 and RN 237 • From Esquel: 310 km north on RN 258 • From Neuquén: 434 km south on RN 237 •

B

ariloche (whose official name is San Carlos de Bariloche), is located on the southern shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi, at the foot of Cerro Otto. In the distance to the south are the Sierra de la Ventana, 1910 m high. Lago Nahuel Huapi was first mentioned by Capitán Don Francisco de César who launched an expedition to find the town which was supposed to have been there. In 1620 Capitán Juan Fernández made another attempt to reach the area from Chile. The Indians living in this area were the Vuriloches (whence the name “Bariloche”) and Puelches, who were a very warlike people. From the mid-1600s until 1720 the Jesuits attempted to convert the Indian population to Christianity, but failed owing to the fierce resistance from the Indians. Most of the missionaries, such as Padre N Mascardi, were martyred. After 1720, the area was not visited by outsiders until 1860, when Perito Moreno launched an expedition from Argentina and Cox led a Chilean expedition into the area. This was followed by much unrest, and peace was not restored to the lakes area until the military expeditions (known as the “desert campaigns”) under Roca and Villegas. From then onwards Europeans arrived and settled in the lakes area. The first house was built in 1895 by Karl Wiederhold; the city’s official foundation date is May 3, 1902. The main church, built in 1946, dominates the town. However, the skyline of the town is changing. Bariloche is a picturesque town with steep streets leading up from the lake foreshore; the hub of town is the Centro Cívico, the main administrative center. The climate is temperate; the highest temperatures are between between November and March oscillating between 17°C (63°F) and 23°C (74°F); the lowest temperatures

are between June and September when the temperatures oscillate between –1°C (30°F) and –6°C (37°F). T h e d r i e s t m o n t h s a r e J a n uary–March and also November. Most precipitation is in the winter months, May–August, which falls as snow. Bariloche can easily be reached from all parts of Argentina. The 447

Bariloche

PATAGONIA Key to map A C D E F H I I M P $ T

Iglesia Catedral Municipalidad Correo Argentino, Centro Cívico Telefónica Argentina Policia y Aduana Hospital Secretaria Municipal de Turismo Secretaria de Turismo de Río Negro Museo de la Patagonia Perito Francisco Moreno, Centro Cívico A.C.A. Banco de la Nación Argentina Central bus terminal

3 Accommodation 3 4 5 6 8 11 12 13 14 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 27 28 29 30 31 33 40 42 44 48 51 53 56 57 62 63 67 69 73 77 78

Hostería Los Alpes Hostería Puyehue Hostería Nontué Hotel Costa del Lago Residencial Maribor Hostería Anduriña Residencial Victoria Hotel Pilmayquén Hostería El Ñire Hotel Apartur Hotel Aspen Ski Residencial El Mirador Hostería Panoramico Residencial Plaza Hotel Milán Hostería Piuké Hostería Los Andes Hostería Roschec Hostería Ivalu Hostería El Viejo Aljibe Hostería Sur Hotel Interlaken Residencial Fontana Hotel Andino Hotel Pucón Hotel Antártida Hotel Cristal Hotel Las Piedras II Residencial Pacífico Hotel Aguas del Sur Hotel Las Piedras I Hostería Aitué Posada del Sol Hotel Premier Hotel Nahuel Huapi Hotel Bella Vista Residencial La Casa de Nogueira 79 Hotel Kilton

Bariloche

80 81 92 97 102 103 107 108 116 117 121 124

Hotel Cottbus Hotel Tres Reyes Hotel Internacional Residencial King’s Hotel Bariloche Hostería Casita Suiza Hostería Quimelén Residencial Flamingo Hotel Kentton Hotel Carlos V Hostería Venezia Albergue Youth Hostel Patagonia Andina 126 Hostería Portofino 129 Albergue Mochilero’s 131 Hotel Gran Roma

4 Eating out 2 7 9 10 16 34 35 36 41 43 45 47 49 50 59 61 70 74 83 87 101 104 106 110 113 114 115 119 120

Restaurant La Fonda del Tío Restaurant La Vieja Posada Pizzería Raulito Restaurant Club de Caza y Pesca Nahuel Huapi Restaurant La Cantina Restaurant Mangiare Restaurant Sobremonte Restaurant El Balcón Pizzería La Jirafa Restaurant Europa Cafetería Friends Cafetería La Mamadera Fast food: Pumpernic Restaurant La Marmita Restaurant La Nueva Estancia Pizzería Pin 9 Restaurant La Vizcacha Pizzería Oásis Restaurant Viejo Munich Cafetería Don Pancho Restaurant Villegas Restaurant Jauja Restaurant 1810 Restaurant La Andinita Restaurant Pavarotti Cafetería Hola Nicolás Restaurant El Barrillito Restaurant Caza Mayor Restaurant La Andina

5 Entertainment 64 Disco By Pass 105 Pub Women

6 Airline offices

39 S.A.P.S.E. and Kaikén 65 TAN 82 LAPA

448

90 SW 93 Aerolíneas Argentinas 94 L.A.D.E.

7 Tour operators and car rental 54 Catedral Turismo and Hiver Turismo 75 Puerto Rent Car 76 Hertz Rent a Car 84 Budget Rent a Car 88 Patagonia Travel 100 Alun-Co Turismo 130 Amuncar Viajes y Turismo

8 Bus companies 17 38 55 58

60 86 91 98 99 111

Bus Norte Andesmar and La Estrella Turisur S.R.L. Transporte El Valle and Lynch Duvet TUS T.A.C. T A Mercedes Tas Choapal T.A. Chevallier, TIRSA, Correcaminos Turismo

0 Services 1 15 18 26 32 37 46 52 66 68 71 72 85 89 95 96 109 112 118 122 123 125 127 128

Sanatorio ARBOS Dos Veintidos Tante Frida Andino Color Sociedad Italiana La Candela wood carvings Krivos Magazines Casa Raul Dry cleaners Gatius Martín Pescador Aspen Ski Farmacia Nahuel Cerámica Bariloche Cambio Casa Piano Information Cerro Campanario Cambio Olano y Cía Artesanías Ascot Porcel de Peralta Librería Cultura Sociedad Germano-Argentina Lave-Rapid Club Andino Bariloche Ceramicas Amancay Intendencia Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi

RÍO NEGRO To rail station

To Neuquén, Villa La Angostura

N

237

PR

RUIZ MORENO

AR O

B. MITRE

To El Bolsón and Esquel

AL

ALBARRACÍN

ON

TISCORNIA

AG

GALLARDO

AVE. ELFLEIN

P. MORENO

E. O'CONNOR

DI

2

CA

AVE. 12 DE OCTUBRE

SARMIENTO

3

ELORDI 7 5

4 8

Lago Nah u e l Hu api

6 9

258

ONELLI

10 12 11 OT TO GOEDECKE P

15

13

14

17 16

H

JOHN O'CONNOR

21 23

19 18 20

I

22 EMILIO FREY

E

27

24

30

29

25 28

26 A

BESCHTEDT 31

36

32 35

37

33 34

48 42 43

44

41

39 40

38 54

PALACIOS

53 47

52 51

46 45

50 49

58 57 60

55 56 59

ROLANDO 74 68 69 70 73 72 75 76 71

65 66 67

77 79 80 78 C. VILLEGAS

81

88 87 86 85 84 83

95

94 93 92 91 90 $

101 105 107 99

$

RECONQUISTA

102

113

$

104

QUAGLIA 123

119 120

114 112 URQUIZA

115 118

M

122 121

116 117

124

I 128

INDEPENDENCIA

MORALES

BR ER O

PANOZZI 131

127

FE

129 130

126

E

D 237

JURAMENTO

C

125

D

Puerto de San Carlos

103

97

89 96 111 110 109 108

106

100 98

To Lago Gutiérrez

82

20

BARILOCHE MAP 2 CENTRO

61 62 63 64

Continued on map 3

449

Bariloche

PATAGONIA open daily 09:00–12:00 and main road to the coast is sealed and 14:00–18:00 open all year round. All Argentine • Asociación de Pesca y Caza Nahuel airlines have regular flights to the Huapi (Nahuel Huapi Hunting and nearby international airport; tourist Fishing Club), corner of 12 de facilities are good with many Octubre and Onelli @ 434380. Open Mon–Fri 14:00–20:00; also good resfirst-class hotels and cafés, restautaurant rants, and night-clubs. It is a summer and winter holiday resort, with E Eating out a quiet season from March to June. In Restaurants the tourist season it can become very • Aguas del Sur, F. P. Moreno 353. crowded, and prices tend to rise. Parrilla Possibly the best months are from • Águila Blanca, San Martín 435. Try March to May, when there are no their puchero • Aqumal, B. Mitre near Moreno winds and the temperature is pleas• Austria, 20 de Febrero 602. German ant. It is the best center from which to explore the Parque Nacional & • cuisine Cantina El Puente, 12 de Octubre Nahuel Huapi and moreover is the 1610. Seafood hub of the southern lakes region. • Casita Suiza, Quaglia 342. Fondue and trout On top of Cerro Otto, 11 km • Caza Mayor, Elflein 96. west from the city center, there is a • Chalet Suisse, Avenida San Martín viewing platform with sweeping 630. German cuisine views over the lake and the chain of • Don Pedro, San Martín 574. Parrilla the Andes. • El Balcón, Mitre 467. Parrilla

B Tourist information • •

•

• • •

Secretaría de Turismo de Río Negro, Palacios 217 @ 428999 fax 426644 Secretaría Municipal de Turismo, Centro Cívico @ 423022 fax 426784. Open Mon–Sat 08:00–20:00. The tourist office has an up-to-date price list of hotels, with a town map, and a listing of private homes which offer accommodation Club Andino Bariloche, 20 de Febrero 30 @ 421158/423918. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–12:00 and 15:00–20:00. The club organizes club walks in the nearby mountain areas and “guest walkers” may participate. Guides for private excursions are available from the club. Maps with locations of refugios and details of camping spots can be bought from the club Secretaría de Turismo de Río Negro, 12 de Octubre 615. Open 07:30–13:00 daily Intendencia Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, San Martín 24, @ 423111, open Mon–Fri 08:00–14:00 Information Cerro Campanario, Villegas 237 1st floor @ 427274 fax;

Bariloche

•

& • • & • • • & • & • & • • • • • • & • • • •

450

El Barrillito, F. P. Moreno 77. International cuisine; trout El Mesón Español, Rolando 263 1st floor. Spanish cuisine El Vegetariano, Neumeyer 20. Vegetarian cuisine Europa, Palacios 149. Parrilla Jauja, Quaglia 366. Parrilla Kandahar, 20 de Febrero 698. International cuisine La Andina, Elflein 95 La Andinita, Mitre 86 La Cantina, Mitre 745. Pastas La Cascada, Mitre 355 La Fonda del Tío, Mitre 1130 La Nueva Estancia, Elflein 301. Parrilla La Marmita, Mitre 329. Swiss cuisine; fondues La Vieja Posada, F. P. Moreno 990. Parrilla La Vizcacha, Rolando 279. Parrilla; locro criollo Le Coq, San Martín 503. International cuisine Los Alemanes, Morales 330. Night club from 22:30 onwards Los Tehuelches, Belgrano 45. Parrilla

RÍO NEGRO Key to map

5 Entertainment

147 Casino Gran Bariloche

7 Tour operators and car rental 111 130 133 138 149 159

TIRSA Correcaminos Turismo Amuncar Viajes y Turismo Avis Lan-Car A-l Localiza

U IS T

A

A

REC

ONQ

TÍN

116

NDE

OSAS

D

A

F

L DE R ANUE UAN M

NCI

PA N

137

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130

131 132 133 134

I

138

139

128 129

NTO

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135 140

136

142 141

CH 149

PA

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AVE . J

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150 151

SO

166

152

J 153 154

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167

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168 155 156

147

169 157 160

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G 170 176

161 171

148 158 159

BER

UTI

172

162 IO

RA LG

N

JUN

BE

175

DE

TUC

174 164

UM

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20

NO

173 163

165 CA

MP

BARILOCHE 3 CENTRO WEST

Restaurant La Andinita Restaurant Pavarotti Cafetería Hola Nicolás Restaurant El Barrillito Restaurant Oriente Restaurant Aguila Blanca Restaurant Le Coq Restaurant Don Pedro

UIZ

115

I

IND

4 Eating out 110 113 114 115 132 153 162 174

114

URQ

AME

Residencial Flamingo Hotel Kentton Albergue Mochilero’s Hotel Gran Roma Residencial Presidente Hotel El Candil Hotel Concorde Hotel Ayelén Hostería Tirol Hotel Millaray Hostería Peumayén Hotel Ausonia Hotel Aconcagua Hotel Quillén Hotel Libertador Residencial Gressoney Hotel San Remo Hostería Cedro Azul Hotel Torresol Hostería Selva Negra Hotel del Lago Ski Hotel Edelweiss Residencial Copahue Hotel Bariloche Ski Residencial del Bosque Hostería La Sureña Residencial Carantania Hotel Panamericano Bariloche Hotel Cumelén Residencial Bonaria

$

112 M

Lago Nah u e l Hu api

108 116 129 131 134 136 137 139 140 141 142 148 151 152 154 155 157 160 161 163 164 166 167 168 169 170 172 173 175 176

GLIA

113

SAN

3 Accommodation

QUA

111 110 109 108

JUR

Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica Argentina Policia and Aduana Secretaria Municipal de Turismo Museo de la Patagonia

Puerto de San Carlos

C D E F I M

Joins map 2

ICH

UEL

O

To Llao-Llao and Cerro Catedral

8 Bus companies

135 Via Bariloche and El Canario 156 Cruz del Sur

9 Sights

165 Monumento to Perito Moreno

0 Services

109 Artesanías Ascot 112 Porcel de Peralta 128 Intendencia Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi 150 Laboratorio Fotocolor Collage 158 Hagebutte 171 Slalom Ski

451

Bariloche

PATAGONIA C Accommodation in Bariloche

Hotel prices increase steeply in the skiing season. Bariloche is a high-class tourist resort, and hotels are not confined to the city but spread all the way to Llao Llao, 24 km to the west along Lago Nahuel Huapi and its inlets. Therefore for ease of reference accommodation has been grouped as follows: • City center: From Calle Campichuelo in the west to 9 de Julio in the east as far as the southern part of Calle Anasagasti • Bariloche west: Avenida de Los Pioneros, from Campichuelo to the Cerro Otto ski-lifts • Lakeside: Avenida Bustillo, along the lake up to KM 5 • Barrio Melipal: 5 km west between Avenida Bustillo and Avenida Los Pioneros • Avenida Bustillo: west of Barrio Melipal as far as KM 10 • Puerto Perito Moreno: Avenida Bustillo KM 10 • Outer west: Avenida Bustillo west of Puerto Perito Moreno to KM 23 For accommodation west of KM 23 see Llao Llao under Accommodation in Puerto Pañuelo on page 483. Bariloche has a normal bed capacity of 14 000 beds which can be seasonally adjusted to a staggering 16 000 beds! Accommodation in the city center — Map on page 449 From Calle Campichuelo in the west to 9 de Julio in the east as far as the southern part of Calle Anasagasti. Apart hotels ****

Hotels **** **** **** *** ***

&

*** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * *

Apartur, B. Mitre 699 E-mail: [email protected]

ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 426190

$D

Bella Vista, Rolando 351 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ E-mail: [email protected] @ 422435 $D/E Nahuel Huapi, F.P. Moreno 252 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ E-mail: [email protected] @ 426146 fax 422921 Tres Reyes, 12 de Octubre 135 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ Fax 424230; E-mail: [email protected] @ 426124 $D/E Antártida, B. Mitre 382 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 423195 $D/E Bariloche Ski, San Martín 352 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: [email protected] @ 432966 $D/F Carlos V, Morales 420 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: [email protected] @ 425474 fax $E/F Cristal, B. Mitre 355 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: [email protected] @ 422442 $F Kentton, Morales 330 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 434580 Andino, Palacios 127 AEFGJLPUV Fax 421475 @ 422732 $F/G Kilton, Elflein 235 AEFGJLPUV E-mail: [email protected] @ 425060/424746 Milán, Beschtedt 128 AEFGJLPSUV @ 422624 $F Pilmayquén, 12 de Octubre 705 AEFGJLPSUV @ 426175 $F Premier, Rolando 263 AEFGJLPSUV @ 423681 $G Pucón, Rolando 118 AEFGJLPUV @ 426166 fax 433654 Tivoli, B. Mitre 383 AEFGJLPSUV E-mail: [email protected] @ 426155 $G Aguas del Sur, F.P. Moreno 353 ADELPSV E-mail: [email protected] @ 424329 fax $F Aspen Ski, B. Mitre 651 AELPV @ 424490 fax 425537 Ausonia Ski II, España 351 AELPV @ 433354

Bariloche

452

2

2

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

RÍO NEGRO Accommodation in Bariloche — continued &

* * * * * * * * * *

Bariloche, Quaglia 338 AELPV Cambria, Elfein 183 AELPSV Fax 430400 E-mail: [email protected] Campana, Belgrano 165 AELPV Costa del Lago, 12 de Octubre 955 AELPV Cottbus, Villegas 444 AELPV Gran Roma, San Martín 102 AEFLPV Interlaken, V.A. O’Connor 383 AELPV Internacional Centrico, B. Mitre 171 AELPSV Las Piedras I, Rolando 127 AELPV Las Piedras II, Palacios 235 AELPV

@

426161

$F/G 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

422511 422162 430954 fax 425440 422218 426156 425938 435073 425594

$G $G $F

2 2 2

$G

2

@ @ @ @ @

424656 fax 425276 422064 422700 426111

$E/G $D/E $F/G $G $F

2 2 2 2 2

@ @ @

423041 423316 423044

$G 2 $G 2 $F/G 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

422196 422478 422677 fax 423237 423416 fax 422222 423468 422795 423011 fax 422645 422407

$F/G $E/G $G $G $G $H $F $H

@ @ @ @ @

435100 429431 422044 423648 424657

@

420375

@

430124

@ @ @ @ @

422221 422055 422159 422200 423248

Hosterías *** *** **

&

** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * *

&

* * * * * *

La Pastorella, Belgrano 127 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: [email protected] Nontué, 12 de Octubre 969 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Aitué, Rolando 141 AEFGJLPSUV Anduriña, B. Mitre 810 AEFGJLPSUV Casita Suiza, Quaglia 342 AEFGJLPSUV El Ñire, J O’Connor 94 AEFGJLPSUV E-mail: [email protected] El Viejo Aljibe, Frey 571 AEFGJLPSUV Piuké, Beschtedt 130 AEFGJLPSUV Puyehue, Elordi 243 AEFGJLPSUV Fax 429754 E-mail: [email protected] Quimelén, Gallardo 136 AEFGJLPSUV Sur, Beschtedt 101 AEFGJLPSUV Ivalu, Frey 535 AELPSV Los Alpes, Diagonal Capraro 1034 AELPV Los Andes, F.P. Moreno 594 AEFLPV Panoramico, F.P. Moreno 646 AELPV Portofino, Morales 439 AELPV Posada del Sol, Villegas 148 AEFLPV Roschec, Elflein 533 AELPV Venezia, Morales 446 AEFLPSV

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

$H 2 $F/G 2

Residenciales

A Flamingo, B. Mitre 24 FLP Overlooks the lake A Fontana, Palacios 276 ELPS A King’s, F.P. Moreno 136 LP A La Casa de Nogueira, Elflein 205 LP A Maribor, Gallardo 946 LP A Pacífico, F.P. Moreno 335 LP E-mail: [email protected] A Plaza, J O’Connor 431 LP E-mail: [email protected] B El Mirador, F.P. Moreno 652 L German spoken; views of the lake B Martín, 20 de Febrero 555 ELS B Monte Grande, 25 de Mayo 1544 South L B Victoria, B. Mitre 815 L B Wikter, Güemes 566 L

453

$G

2

$I 2 $H 2 $G/H 2 $G/H 2

Bariloche

PATAGONIA Accommodation in Bariloche — continued Albergues Albergues cater for young travelers and backpackers and are an integral part of the accommodation scene in Bariloche. These albergues are scattered over a wide area and are not necessarily in the center. • Alaska, Lilinquen 328 in Barrio Pinar de la Festa E- mail: [email protected] ABLV @ 461564 fax $I 1 AIV @ 431627x fax $I 1 • Amuncar, San Martín 82 @ 425007 • La Juanita, 12 de Octubre 2002 ABL @ 422222 $I 1 • Los Andes, Moreno 594 @ 431627 • Mochilero’s, San Martín 82 Fax 423187 E-mail: [email protected]; backpackers’ accommodation opposite the Civic Center @ 422783 • Patagonia Andina, Morales 564 E-mail: [email protected] @ 422783 fax • Youth Hostel Patagonia Andina, Morales 564 ABLV

Accommodation in the city center — Map on page 451 Hotels ***** ***** **** *** *** *** ** ** ** * * * * * *

Edelweiss, San Martín 202 ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$STUVXYZ E-mail: hoteledelweiss.com.ar @ 426165 Panamericano Bariloche, San Martín 536 ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$STUVXYZ E-mail: [email protected] @ 425850 Concorde, Libertad 131 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ @ 424500 fax Aconcagua, San Martín 289 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 424719 @ 424718 fax Del Lago Ski, San Martín 645 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 426689 @ 426134 Torresol, España 462 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 422484 Millaray, Libertad 195 ADEFGJLPSUV @ 422229 fax Quillén, San Martín 415 AEFGJLPSUV Fax 424340 @ 422669 San Remo, San Martín 457 AEFGJLPSUV Fax 427816 E:mail: [email protected] @ 424628 Ausonia, J.M de Rosas 454 AELPV @ 424078 Ayelén, Libertad 157 AELPV E-mail: [email protected] @ 423611 Cumelén, San Martín 580 AELPV @ 428076 Del Bosque, San Martín 422 ALP E-mail: [email protected] @ 432966 El Candil, J.M. de Rosas 150 AELPSV E-mail: [email protected] @ 424494 Libertador, San Martín 441 AELPV @ 433116

Hosterías *** ** ** * *

Tirol, Libertad 175 E-mail: [email protected] La Sureña, San Martín 432 Selva Negra, San Martín 555 Peumayén, Juramento 182 Cedro Azul, España 456

Bariloche

ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPSUV AELPV AELPV

454

@ @ @ @ @

426152 422013 424632 422710 426112

$B/C 2 $B/C 2 $E

1

$F

2

$D/F 2 $F

2

$G/H 2 $F/G 2

$F/G 2

$F $F/G $E/F $H $F

2 2 2 2 2

RÍO NEGRO Accommodation in Bariloche — continued Residenciales

A Bonaria, Salta 422 A Carantania, San Martín 496 A Copahue, San Martín 280 E-mail: [email protected] A Gressoney, San Martín 447 A Presidente, San Martín 152

LP LP FLP LP LP

@ @

423136 425248

@ @ @

426289 433116 422385

Accommodation in Bariloche west Outside map area: Avenida de los Pioneros, from Campichuelo to the Cerro Otto ski-lifts. Hotels ***** *

La Cascada, KM 5.6 ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$STUVXYZ Fax 441076; E-mail: [email protected] @ 441088 L’Edelil, Boock 565 KM 4 AELPSV @ 442048 fax

Hosterías

$D/E 2 $G/H 2

@

441041 fax

$F/G 2

@

441989

$G

2

del Faldeo, KM 8 AEFGJLPUV @ 461169 $F Los Arcos, KM 3.3 AEFGJLPUV @ 441700 fax $E * Ojo De Agua, KM 5 AELPV @ 441921 $E • Private accommodation: Señor Gerhard Baumann, Avenida de los Pioneros 860 German and English spoken ABZ @ 424502

2 4 4

*** **

Las Vertientes, KM 2.3 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY La Danesa, KM 3.6 AEFGJLPSUV E-mail: [email protected]

Cabañas ** **

Lakeside Along Avenida Bustillo up to KM 5. Hotels *

Huemul, KM 1.5 E-mail: [email protected]

Residenciales

A Parque, KM 1

Cabañas El Yeti, KM 5.6 • Los Cerezos, KM 5.2

*

AELPSV

@

424066

LP

@

421888

AELPV

@ @

442073 fax 442194

$F

2

$E

4

Accommodation in Barrio Melipal Ave. Bustillo 5 km west, between Avenida Bustillo and Avenida de los Pioneros. Hosterías ** * * *

Lonquimay, Lonquimay 3672 AEFGJLPUV Caballito Blanco, Copahué 4191 AELPV Cari Hué, KM 5.2 near A. Larrochette ALP E-mail: [email protected] Villa Sokol, Belgrano 75 AELPSV

Cabañas * *

El Mangangá, Catedral 3343 Palito’s, Tronador 4150

AELPV AELPV

455

@ @

443450 422993

@ @

441746 441266

$F/G 2

@ @

442834 425084

$E $F

4 4

Bariloche

PATAGONIA Accommodation in Bariloche — continued Accommodation on Avenida Bustillo West of Barrio Melipal as far as KM 10. Hotels ****

Nido del Cóndor Resort KM 6.9 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: [email protected]

@

442221

Hosterías *** *** ***

del Viejo Molino, KM 6.4 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: [email protected] De la Luna, KM 7.5 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 461600 Santa Rita, KM 7.2 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Web site: www.santarita.com.ar

Cabañas ** ** ** * * * *

Del Cruce, KM 8.7 AEFGJLPUV La Cebra, KM 7 AEFGJLPUV Peters, KM 6.6 AEFGJLPUV Araucaria, KM 8 AELPV Del Catedral, KM 8.6 AELPV La Ponderosa, KM 7.5 AELPV Cabaña Vuchalafquen Lien, Bustillo KM 7.5 AELPV

@

441011 fax

$D/E 2

@

462424

$F

@

461028 fax

$D/E 2

@ @ @ @

462314 461390 fax 441669 fax 461502

$E/F $D $D

4 4 5

@ @

461457 461062

$F $F

2 4

$C

2

2

Accommodation in Puerto Perito Moreno Avenida Bustillo KM 10. Hotels **** ** *

El Casco, KM 11 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 461088 German spoken @ 461032 Pájaro Azul, KM 10.8 AEFGJLPUV E-mail: [email protected] @ 461025 fax Altamira del Lago, KM 10.5 AELPSV @ 462292

$F/G 2 $G 2

Accommodation in the outer west On Avenida Bustillo west of Puerto Perito Moreno to KM 23. Hosterías ** * * *

• • • • • & • • •

Playa Serena, KM 13.1 Los Notros, KM 20 E- mail: [email protected] del Trébol, KM 18 Pichi Ruca, KM 16.3

AEFGJLPUV AELPV AELPV AELPV

@

462100

@ @ @

448616 448072 448260

$G

2

Malevil, Pasaje Pagano 275. Interna- & • Puerto Viejo, 12 de Octubre near tional cuisine, bar Onelli. Overlooking Lago Nahuel Huapi Mangiare, Palacios 150. Italian cuisine & • Sobremonte, B. Mitre 422 • Viejo Munich, B. Mitre 102. German 1810, Elflein 167. Parrilla cuisine Nahuel Huapi, F. P. Moreno 252 • Villegas, Villegas 363. Trout and veniOriente, San Martín 130. Chinese cuison sine Pavarotti, Quaglia 259 Restaurants on the Llao Llao road Pilmayquen, 12 de Octubre 705 Some of the Bariloche’s best restaurants Portal del Lago, San Martín 127. Interare on the road to Llao Llao. national cuisine

Bariloche

456

RÍO NEGRO AROUND BARILOCHE

MISIÓN JESUITICA HUEMUL

PR Pe PTO PAÑUELO

Br

18

az

Lago Llao-Llao

ní

ns

PR ul

OV

a Sa

o C am pa

L.

na

dr

IN

CE

CE

NE

UQ

UÉ

RÍO

N

L ago Nahuel Huapi NE

o

GR

O

rio

Isla de las Gallinas

P. M or

Cerro V. López

IN

n Pe

CERRO CAMPANARIO

OV

COLONIA SUIZA

en

Isla Huemul o

2076

R 237 237 Cerro Otto

Key to map R

BARILOCHE

R

Mountain refuge VILLA CERRO CATEDRAL

Mountain hikes

258

R

N

Cerro Tres Reyes 1772

rre

z

Ski lifts

tié

Skiing areas R

Cruiseship harbor

La

go

Golf course

Gu

18

R

Cerro Ñire

R 2200

•

I Post and telegraph

Dirty Dick’s Bar, Bustillo KM 5.2. International cuisine; music • El Casco, Bustillo KM 11. Parrilla • La Tranquera, Bustillo KM 8.4. Parrilla Pizzerías • La Andina, Elflein 95 • La Andinita, B. Mitre 56. Pizzas and churros • La Jirafa, Palacios 288. • Oásis, F. P. Moreno 278 • Pin 9, Rolando 103 • Raulito, Gallardo 920

• •

L Financial

All banks charge commission on travelers’ checks. • Banco de Galicia y Buenos Aires, Moreno 77. ATM • Banco de la Nación Argentina, Mitre 180. ATM • Cambio Casa Piano, B. Mitre 131 @ 423733. Open 09:00–13:00 and 16:00–20:00 • Cambio Olano y Cía, Quaglia 238

Cafeterías • Don Pancho, B. Mitre 150 • Friends, Mitre 302 • Hola Nicolás, Moreno 10. Pastries and hot chocolate • La Mamadera, B. Mitre 362 • Fast food: Pumpernic, B. Mitre 305

M Services and facilities

• •

n Entertainment • • • • • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Centro Cívico Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, Elflein 554

• •

Casino Gran Bariloche, España 407 Disco By Pass, Rolando 155 near B. Mitre Disco Cerebro, J. M. de Rosas 405 Disco Feet Up, Palacios near B. Mitre Disco Grisú, J. M. de Rosas 574 Women, Elflein 151. Bar

•

457

Newspapers and magazines: Casa Raúl, Mitre 367 Books: Librería Cultura, Elflein 78 @ 420193 Dry cleaner: Gatius, Villegas 146 Laundromat: Lave-Rapid, Quaglia 427 Medical Center: Sanatorio ARBOS (Cruz Azul), Diagonal Capraro 1216 @ 426169 fax

Bariloche

PATAGONIA R Air services from Bariloche

The airport is 11 km from town. There is an airport departure tax. The airport has been recently upgraded. • Empresa Ali, Mitre near Villegas has airport bus leaving one and half hours before each flight; fare $2.50 • Transportes Aéreos Neuquén (TAN), Villegas 144 @ 427889 • Aerolíneas Argentinas, Mitre 185 @ 422591 ° Buenos Aires; 3 daily • L.A.D.E., Quaglia 242 @ 423562; e-mail: [email protected]. Refer to the L.A.D.E. section under Air services from Buenos Aires City on page 66 • LAPA, Villegas 137 @ 423714 ° Buenos Aires; 1 daily • S.A.P.S.E. (servicios Aéreos Patagonicos S.E.) Palacios 266 @ 420251/428257 ° Buenos Aires via Viedma; 1 weekly • Kaikén, Palacios 266 @ 428257 • Southern Winds, Villegas 145 @ 43490; e-mail: [email protected] For services see Air services from Córdoba on page 266 •

U Motoring

Pharmacy: Farmacia Nahuel, Moreno 240 Photographic supplies • Laboratorio Fotocolor Collage, San Martín 287 @ 427997 • Porcel de Peralta, Mitre 11 @ 422741 • Centro de la Fotografia, Mitre 139 • Andino Color, Mitre 515 @ 429940 Ski hire • Aspen Ski, Moreno 222 • Slalom ski, Ave. San Martín 460 @ 423763 Sporting supplies • Fishing and sport equipment: Martín Pescador, Rolando 257 @ 421637 Hire of camping vans • Dos Veintidos, Mitre 797 @ 425086. Sleeping bags, mountain gear • Krivos, Mitre 316 @ 441430 fax • Lynch Duvet, Moreno 371 @ 432808 fax. Back packs, sleeping bags

The road east to the coast via Neuquén is sealed all the way and is open all year round. Service stations • A.C.A., 12 de Octubre 785. Maps and road information • Esso Servicentro, Avenida San Martín 635 Car rental If you intend to travel to Chile in a hired car, you must obtain written permission. • AI, San Martín 235 @ 426240 fax 427494 • Avis, San Martín 130 @ 431648 fax 431649; E-mail: avis@bariloche. com.ar • Budget, Mitre 106 1st floor @ 422482 fax • Hertz, Villegas 222 @ 441218 fax 426508 • Localiza, San Martín 491 local 6 @ 429087 • Lan-Car, Libertad 114 @ 424404 • Puerto Rent Car, Villegas 216 @ 435222. 24 hour service

N Clubs •

• •

Austrian: Asociación Argentina Austriaca, 24 de Septiembre 230 @ 424873 German: Sociedad Germano-Argentina, Gallardo 40 @ 422608 Italian: Sociedad Italiana, Beschtedt 141 @ 22247

T Trains

F C General Roca station is on RN 237, 3 km east from the center of the city. The railroad information office is at San Martín 127 @ 426181 • To Buenos Aires (Retiro station): “Expreso Lagos del Sur” departs Mon, Tues, Fri; 31 hours

P Visas, passports •

Chilean consulate, J.M. de Rosas @ 422842

Bariloche

458

RÍO NEGRO S Buses from Bariloche

The central bus terminal is on RN 237 @ 426999, but buses still pick up passengers from their downtown offices. Long-distance bus companies • A33 T.A. Chevallier S.A., Prito Moreno 107 @ 423090 • A39 Codao, Perito Moreno 470 @ 423654 • A52 El Canario, San Martín 127 @ 426181 • A71 El Rápido, bus terminal @ 426999 • A76 El Sureño, bus terminal @ 430122 • A81 Andesmar, Palacios 246 bus terminal @ 430211 ° Mendoza (19 hrs) via Piedra del Águila, Neuquén (6 hrs), Catriel (25 de Mayo), General Alvear, and San Rafael • A155 La Estrella, Palacios 246 @ 422140 • A174 Los Rápidos/Lago Los Moscos, Línea Mascardi • A211 T.A.C., B. Mitre 138 @ 422231/424854 • A213 Tas Choapa Internacional, Moreno 138 @ 426663 • A218 TIRSA, Quaglia 197 @ 426999 • A222 Turismo Algarrobal @ 423081 • A224 La Unión del Sud, Moreno 365 @ 428589 • A234 T.A. Mercedes, B. Mitre 161 @ 426000/424269 • A239 Ko-Ko, Moreno 107 @ 423090 • A251 TUS, Elflein 320 near Rolando @ 424565 • A262 El Valle, Moreno 365 @ 428589 • A265 Vía Bariloche, Mitre 321 @ 429012 • A302 Don Otto, bus terminal @ 426999 • A303 La Puntual, bus terminal of. 3/4 @ 426228 • A346 Cruz del Sur, San Martín 453; to Chile Companies with local services • Transporte Ali, Mitre near Villegas • Transportes Tres de Mayo #10, #20; General Roca train station @ 426173 Local and provincial services ° Aeropuerto Internacional Bariloche ° Cerro Catedral(1 2 hour, $2.40) ° Choele Choel (9 hrs) via Neuquén, Cipolletti (6 hrs), and General Roca (6 hrs) ; 1–2 daily ° El Bolsón ($9.00; 31 2 hrs); 5–7 daily ° El Bolsón (5 hrs) via Quimey Mahuida, Villa Mascardi, El Foyel, Los Repollos, and Gruta Virgen; 3 weekly ° Ingeniero Jacobacci; 1 daily ° Lago Gutiérrez via Teleférico Cerro Otto; daily every 20 minutes ° Llao Llao ($1.30) via Playa Bonita, Aerosilla Cerro Campanario, Colonia Suiza, Puerto Pañuelo; daily services every 20 minutes ° Viedma (151 2 hrs) via Pilcaniyeu, Comallo, Onelli, Ingeniero Jacobacci ($12.00); Los Menucos, Sierra Colorada, Valcheta, San Antonio Oeste; 1–2 services daily ° Villa Traful ($10.00; 21 2 hrs); 3 daily Long-distance services • •

Destination Bahía Blanca Buenos Aires

Fare $60.00 $76.00

Services 3 daily 7 daily

•

Caleta Olivia

$70.00

4 weekly

Duration Company 16 hrs A76, A155, A262, A303 23 hrs A33, A52, A155, A211, A262, A265, A303 A302

459

Bariloche

PATAGONIA Buses from Bariloche — continued • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Córdoba $90.00 Comodoro Rivadavia $68.00 Epuyén $14.30 Esquel $21.00 Junín de los Andes $19.00 La Plata $73.00 Malargüe $56.50 Mar del Plata $83.00 Mendoza $61.00 Miramar $80.00 Necochea $73.00 Neuquén $35.00 Osorno (Chile) $20.00 Puerto Madryn $55.00 Puerto Montt (Chile) $27.50 Río Gallegos $104.00 Rosario $83.00 San Juan $72.00 San Luis San Rafael $56.00 Santa Rosa (La Pampa) $58.00 San Martín de Los Andes $22.00 Trelew $60.00 Viedma $55.00

5 weekly

22 hrs A211, A251,

2 daily

14 hrs A211, A302 A234 6 hrs A39, A81, A211, A234, A265, A302

6 daily 1 daily 3 daily 5 weekly 3 daily 3 daily 3 daily 6 daily

19 hrs 19 hrs 21 hrs 7 hrs

4 daily

6 hrs

4 daily 1 daily 2 weekly

9 hrs

4 weekly 1–2 daily

A213, A234, A346 A211 24 hrs A33, A218 A81 T.I.C.S.A. 22 hrs A81, A211

1 daily

21 hrs A33

1 daily

51 2 hrs A239, A251 A302 17 hrs A39, A262, A303

1–2 daily

•

# Water transport

All excursion boats and catamarans leave from Puerto Pañuelo. See Water transport from Puerto Pañuelo on 482. • Patagonia Travel, Mitre 150 @ 424297. Bookings for launch cruises on Lago Nahuel Huapi; bookings include bus to Puerto Pañuelo

•

La Candela, Mitre 447. Wood carvings Tante Frida, Mitre 660. Chocolates

a Sport

A wide range of sporting activities are possible in and around Bariloche. • Fishing: A permit is required for trout fishing. The season begins in November • Golf: Pinares Golf, Avenida Bustillo KM 16 • Hunting: Inquire at Club de Caza y Pesca Nahuel Huapi, 12 de Octubre near Onelli. The hunting season runs from March 1 to the end of May. Hunting is not permitted in national parks. Animals which may be hunted include wild boar and European stag • Mountaineering: Club Andino Bariloche, 20 de Febrero 30. Has mountain walks for members and guests at weekends. These excursions

Y Shopping

Bariloche is best known for its sweaters and sweets. Near Moreno and Villegas is the Paseo de los Artesanos, where local artists sell their creations. • Amancay, Morales 665. Ceramics • Artes del Fuego, Don Bosco 152. Ceramics • Ascot, Mitre 52. Artesanías • Cerámica Bariloche, Mitre 112. Ceramics • Hagebutte, Ave. San Martín 467. Cosmetics

Bariloche

A239 A211 A211 A71, A234 A81, A211 A71, A234 A71, A234 A33, A52, A81, A234, A251, A262, A265 A213, A234, A346 A302

460

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is the favorite skiing area. The Mercedes bus company, Mitre 161, runs a bus service at one-hour intervals from 08:00 to 18:00. For detailed information on Cerro Catedral see page 468. Walking trails from the top leading downhill are marked with red and yellow markers. The descent takes between three and four hours • Cerro Otto: Only about 5 km from downtown Bariloche. Follow Avenida Pioneros, also known as Ruta de Faldeo. The cable car operates the full year Mon–Sat 14:00–18:00; in the winter season also Sundays • For those interested in cross-country skiing, contact Club Andino Bariloche. The favorite areas are on Cerro López and from Refugio Arroyo Challhuaco to Refugio Neumeyer on the Sierra de la Ventana. Refugio Neumeyer @ (02944) 428995; e-mail: refneubariloche.com.ar Sport in Villa Lago Gutiérrez • Villa Arelauquen Golf Club, @ 4237757/424852/422112; 18 holes

are graded. To participate enquire at the club office. See also Tourist information above. The club also provides guides for individual hikes and climbing excursions, but this is expensive. The club owns several mountain refuges in the national park most of them located above 1000 m. Firewood is provided and some of the huts are managed during the summer season. Maps and information regarding the location of huts can be obtained from Club Andino Bariloche and from the Servicio Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi. Check with the club location of refuges and if booking is required. See also under Accommodation in Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi on 481. The national parks service also provides guides but they are expensive. Don’t forget to bring sun protection cream Polo: Bariloche Polo Club, Ave. Bustillo KM 10 @ 461035 Sailing and boating: Bariloche Yacht Club, Avenida Bustillo KM 15.6 @ 448045 Scuba diving: Club Náutico, Avenida Bustillo KM 3.5 @ 441400. There are diving sites near Isla de las Gallinas and at Pichi Traful. Diving is restricted to 22 m Water-skiing: Practiced on Playa Bonita, Avenida Bustillo KM 8; Laguna El Trébol, Avenida Bustillo KM 18; and Lago Gutiérrez, RN 253 KM 13 Wind surfing: In Bahía Serena, Avenida Bustillo KM 12; Lago Gutiérrez RN 253 KM 13; and Laguna El Trébol, Avenida Bustillo KM 18. For more information ring @ 426181, extension 429

p Sightseeing

•

Museo de la Patagonia Perito Francisco P. Moreno (Francisco Perito P. Moreno Patagonia Museum), Centro Cívico. Open Tues–Fri 10:00–12:30 and 14:00–19:00, Sat 10:00–13:00. Altogether there are 11 rooms with exhibits of geology, also an interesting collection of artefacts of the pre-Hispanic inhabitants. Open Tues–Fri 10:00–12:30 and 14:00–19:00, Mon and Sat 10:00–13:00. Admission free • Museo Paleontólogico, Avenida 12 de Octubre near Sarmiento. Open Mon–Sat 16:00–20:00 • Trencito, a narrow-gauge train running along the Costanera. It can be boarded at Puerto San Carlos; the round trip takes about one hour Sightseeing in Puerto Moreno • Granja de Truchas Bariloche (Bariloche Trout Farm), located on Avenida Bustillo KM 10. Open daily 09:00–13:00 and 15:00–20:00. Bus Tres de Febrero

Skiing There are four skiing areas in the Bariloche area: Cerro Catedral, a mammoth operation of world standard; Cerro Otto and the cross-country or Nordic skiing area of Cerro López; and a skiing area on Cerro Ñireco in the Sierra de la Ventana. The skiing season runs from July to early October. • Cerro Catedral: It is advantageous to book with a tour company because you may secure discounts for lift tickets. Only 23 km west of Bariloche this 461

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PATAGONIA Sightseeing in Colonia Suiza • Centro de Piscicultura, Beveraggi. Trout farming. Open daily 09:00–20:00. Bus Tres de Febrero • Granja Suiza, Goye y Sakman. Wood carvings, regional products, ceramics; artists’ fair on Sundays

•

s Excursions Tour operators All tour operators charge the same prices, and tour buses pick up participants from their respective hotels. • Alun-Co Turismo, Moreno 187 @ 422283. Also car hire • Amuncar Viajes y Turismo, Ave. San Martín 82 @ 431627 fax 423187 • Asociación Argentina de Guías de Montaña (Argentine Mountain Guide Association), @ 4423109, E-mail: [email protected] list of mountain guides; also organizes tours. Contact: Sr. Arko Toncek • Asociación Argentina de Bicicletas de Montaña (Argentine Mountain Bike Association) @ 4423529; e-mail: [email protected]. Contact: Sr. Carlos Viaene • Catedral Turismo, B. Mitre 399 @ 425443. Has its own fleet of micros, and organizes land and lake cruises. They are also the sole operators on the scenic trip to Puerto Montt via Paso de Pérez Rosales • Correcaminos Turismo, Quaglia 197 @ 426076. Agent for Tas-Choapa bus to Chile. Adventure tour operator: Horse riding, trekking, rafting, fishing excursions, mountain bike • Cumbres Patagonia, Villegas 222 @ 423283/423646. Adventure tour operator: Horse riding, trekking, rafting, fishing excursions, mountain bike • Hiver Turismo, B. Mitre 387 @ 425414. Caters for “adventure tourism” • Turismo Algarrobal, 9 de Julio 1800 @ 423081 • Turisur S.R.L., Moreno 310 @ 426109. Catamarans on Lago Nahuel Huapi

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Tours • Reserva Histórica, Ecológica y Turística Municipal Isla Huemul (Huemul Island Municipal Historic, Ecological and Tourist Reserve): This

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island can be reached by ferries from Puerto San Carlos, down from Centro Cívico. The forest cover of the island has been preserved in its natural state Cerro Catedral: Bus tours from Bariloche to the foot of Cerro Catedral allow for less than two hours to reach the mountain top; entrance to the Cerro Catedral ski slopes, below the snow line. See also Cerro Catedral on page 468 Osorno in Chile: The road at first closely follows the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi. There are vistas over the lake of Bariloche and Cerro Tronador is visible most of the way. If you are traveling by bus, there is usually a stop at the resort town of Villa La Angostura where the scenic lakes road to San Martín de los Andes begins—see Villa La Angostura on page 432. The most picturesque part on the Argentine side is from Correntoso (where there is a camping site) onwards, when the climb starts through the Río Blanco valley. The Argentine passport control is a good hour’s drive from the Paso Puyehué. As you enter Chile you are in the Parque Nacional Puyehue. Right at the Chilean passport control you are within striking distance of Volcán Puyehue and it is worth taking a picture from here. The best views on the Argentine side are on the left-hand side of the bus. On the Chilean side the best views are on the right-hand side. The whole trip from Bariloche to Osorno is breathtaking: you are either passing along lakes with high mountains as a backdrop, or you are in the mountains with still higher mountains, or even volcanoes, on either side Esquel: Leave Bariloche by Avenida Onelli, which is the starting point of RN 258. Six km outside town is the turn-off east to the Refugio Neumeyer on Cerro Ñireco. Shortly afterwards you get your first view of Lago Gutiérrez. The road is well sealed and follows the eastern edge of the lake for about 9 km, passing on the way through the villages of Ruca Lafquen, Villa Atalaya, and Quimey Mahuida, all picturesque villages

RÍO NEGRO overlooking the lake. Some have hotels and restaurants and water sports facilities. There are views over the lake to Cerro Catedral, whose forests ascend to 2400 m. Four km after the bridge at the southern end of Lago Gutiérrez is another picturesque lake, Lago Mascardi, which is larger and offers boat rides. There is a watershed between Lago Gutiérrez and Lago Mascardi—water from Lago Gutiérrez empties into Lago Nahuel Huapi whereas water from Lago Mascardi flows into the Río Manso. Villa Mascardi has a camping ground, Suyai, near the A.C.A. service station. After crossing Arroyo Guillermo there is a hotel on the outskirts of Villa Mascardi. A little further on is the turn-off to the upper reaches of Lago Mascardi, onto an all-weather, narrow, gravel road. You can reach Río Alerce on good walking trails along this river, and Río Frías, past Cerro Tronador. Continuing on RN 258 after leaving Villa Mascardi, the road follows the eastern side of Lago Guillelmo. Here the road is curved and sometimes high above the valley. At the end of Lago Guillelmo , the road surface becomes gravel just before the full-scale descent into the El Bolsón valley. The trip from there onwards is quite interesting, as it descends and ascends several times to negotiate a difficult stretch. For a short distance the valley widens and the mountains appear lower. Near Pampa El Toro the road is particularly winding. The higher mountain range is on the eastern side. Pampa El Toro itself is nothing more than a road workers’ camp; here the road turns off to Laguna Huata Hue and Lago Steffen, both good for fishing. This area can get very cold even in summer. The river is about 300 m below the road level, and the road winds on its descent. At KM 65 waterfalls come into view. Río Villegas with a small road diner is near here. The scenery here is picturesque, with views over the valley below. Forty km before El Bolsón you reach the valley floor, where there is a café called Tacuifi. Shortly before

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reaching El Bolsón the usually snow-covered peaks of the Cerro Ventisquero, 2285 m come into view on the western side. At KM 95 there is a crossing over the Río Foyel. The valley narrows, but the mountains here are not terribly high. The road continues through a sort of canyon. On the left-hand side is the Cascada de la Virgen, and past this waterfall is a Parrilla, El Rancho de Fernando, just where two valleys intersect, forming a wide section. The river we are following is called Río Los Repollos. The valley is now very wide, made up of continuous river flats, and its slopes are forested on both sides. On the right-hand side is the turn-off to Mallin Ahogado. Just on the outskirts of El Bolsón near the river is El Bolsón camping ground. Motel La Posta on the left-hand side looks good. The most picturesque part however is after Cholila, when the road enters the Parque Nacional Los Alerces. To take full advantage of the views you should sit on the right-hand side of the bus when coming from Bariloche. In fact this trip is better made the other way, leaving Esquel in the morning so that you can enjoy the trip through the national park in broad daylight San Martín de los Andes via the northern route: Leave Bariloche on RN 237 which for the first 18 km follows Lago Nahuel Huapi. After you have crossed the bridge over the Río Limay, the mountains are lower and the land becomes drier. Three km past the Río Limay bridge is the turn-off to Villa La Angostura and on to Osorno and Puerto Montt in Chile. The all-weather sealed road follows the Río Limay almost all the way to Confluencia. Before you cross the Río Traful at Confluencia there is the turn-off west onto Ruta “d” and later Ruta “l” to Lago Traful, to Lago Correntoso and Chile. A bit further on overlooking the valley is the hostería. To take the more picturesque route, take the turn-off west after crossing the Río Traful. Tourist buses usually take this route, unless Córdoba pass is impassable. Here

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PATAGONIA

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rise higher—this is cattle country. The road ascends slightly and crosses the Río Chimehuin at Junín de los Andes. The valley which the road follows here is fairly wide and green. The mountains on either side steadily increase in height and are frequently snow-covered even in summer. Hotels on the city’s outskirts mark the traveler’s arrival in San Martín de los Andes Lake excursions T. A. Mercedes tourist buses leave Bariloche at 09:00 from B Mitre 161 for Puerto Pañuelo to meet the catamarans; municipal buses leave Bariloche from the corner of Moreno and Sargento Rolando for Puerto Pañuelo. Buses are always crowded, so leave early, about 08:30. • Lago Nahuel Huapi: This lake has seven coves or brazos. At the entrance to Brazo Puerto Blest is Isla Centinela which contains the mausoleum of Don Francisco Perito Moreno, one of the trail-blazers of the national park. The island’s original Indian name was “Nahuel Huapi”, which means “tiger island”, after the shape of the island. The lake covers 560 square km (216 square miles) and its longest arm is 96 km long; its deepest point is 464 m; and it is 764 m above sea-level. A catamaran leaves Puerto Pañuelo at about 10:30 daily and proceeds north, passing Isla Victoria • Isla Victoria and Bosque Arrayanes: Departs Puerto Pañuelo 10:00 • Puerto Blest, waterfalls, and Laguna Frías: Departs Puerto Pañuelo 10:00 • Isla Victoria, Bosque Arrayanes, and Villa La Angostura: Departs Puerto Pañuelo Wed 09:30 • Cerro Tronador: Departs Puerto Mascardi 11:00 Conducted tours See also Tours above. • Cerro Catedral: Half-day trip; departs 13:30 • Cerro López: Half- day; departs 13:30 • Cerro Tronador: Full day trip; includes a walk to Glaciar Negro (“Black Glacier”) and Cascada Los Alerces; departs 08:00

wind and water erosion have created spectacular rock formations known as Piedra del Viento. Twelve km past Confluencia, the road turns north and follows the Arroyo Córdoba for some 8 km. The mountains on both sides of the road are in the 1800 m range. Vegetation here is reduced to small patches of grass. Shortly afterwards the ascent to the Paso de Córdoba begins, a picturesque 6 km stretch of winding mountain road. Signs along the road point out photogenic spots. The mountains again approach the 2100 m mark as we get closer to Lago Meliquina and the Cerro Chapelco skiing slopes. Twenty-six km past Lago Meliquina and over a very picturesque mountain road, we reach San Martín de los Andes. See also San Martín de los Andes on page 422 San Martín de los Andes via RN 40 and RN 234: This is the less scenic route taken by bus services, but has the advantage that the road is sealed for most of the way and open all year round. At Confluencia, where there is an A.C.A. service station on the left-hand side at the Traful junction where the Río Traful joins the Río Limay, cross the bridge over the Río Traful and turn east. For 42 km the road follows the northern rim of the Río Limay, which here almost forms a lake due to the water stored by dams such as Dique Alicura further down the valley. The first part is interesting as the valley is just wide enough for the river and the road, but it quickly becomes rather unattractive as most of the time the land is dry. Occasionally the rock formations have unusual shapes due to the strong forces of wind erosion. Across the river weir a feeble attempt has been made to plant conifers. After crossing Río Collón Curá, the road turns sharply northwards, becoming RN 40, which runs through undulating country almost bare of growth. La Rinconada is nothing more than a long narrow bridge over the Río Aluminé. Across the river on the western side is an A.C.A. service station with a motel. We are now on RN 234. Once more the mountains

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tourist center. On the way you have glimpses of the north side of Volcán Calbuco, 2019 m high. This full day trip can be booked through Catedral Turismo. In my opinion this is one of the highlights of a visit to the Lakes Region. Returning to Argentina you may go via Paso Puyehue which is also a very scenic trip. See also the companion volume Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Region X de los Lagos” • Puerto Pañuelo and Puerto Blest (by boat), Puerto Alegre by bus, Puerto Frías by launch, and Cascada de los Cántaros: Full day trip • San Martín de los Andes: Departs 08:00 • Villa La Angostura and Osorno in Chile: 8 hours one-way • Seven-lakes trip, taking in Río Limay, Valle Encantado, Lago Traful, Lago Correntoso, Villa La Angostura, and Paso Coihue: 8 hours Walking tours • Cerro Campanario: Starting point is the chair lift at KM 17.7 Avenida Bustillo. There are scenic views over Lago Nahuel Huapi and Bariloche. The chair lift runs daily 09:00–12:00 and 14:00–18:00 • Llao Llao, Colonia Suiza, Cerro Catedral, and return to Bariloche: Full day trip • Llao Llao, Colonia Suiza, Punto Panoramico, and around Lago Moreno • Rubber raft tour from Bariloche down the Río Limay to Confluencia, stopping for lunch at Valle Encantado: 9 hours. Runs from mid-November to mid-April • Cerro Otto: For a do-it-yourself trip, take a Transportes Tres de Mayo bus from the corner of Perito Moreno and Sargento Rolando. The cable car station is on Avenida de los Pioneros, 5 km from the city center. This is a steep two-hour walk uphill. Eight hundred meters up there is the station for the cable-car, which ascends to 1400 m. On top of the mountain there is a restaurant with a rotating viewing platform • Isla Victoria: For a do-it-yourself one-day tour, take a Transporte Tres

El Bolsón and Lago Puelo: Departs 08:00 Puerto Montt in Chile via Paso de Pérez Rosales :This is a fascinating trip through some of the most picturesque lake region on either side of the border. The trip starts with a bus ride from Bariloche to Puerto Pañuelo. At Puerto Pañuelo a modern cruise ship brings you through the Brazo Puerto Blest (Puerto Blest Cove) of Lago Nahuel Huapi to Puerto Blest. As the cruise ship enters Brazo Puerto Blest the mountains close in, and this narrow stretch of water with the towering mountains on either side resembles more a fiord. At Puerto Blest you disembark again and there is a short bus ride to Lago Frías. Approaching Lago Frías the mountains open up a bit to make room for the lake. Lago Frías is at an altitude of 980 m and it can get quite cold here even in summer. On the west side of Lago Frías is the Argentine passport control. Here you board a Chilean bus which brings you over the Paso de Pérez Rosales, elevation 1022 m, to Peulla on Lago Todos Los Santos in Chile. The scenery over the pass is superb. The bus driver will stop on a few occasions so you can take pictures of the scenery; at one stage you have a marvellous view into a valley which is dominated by glaciated Cerro Tronador, 3460 m. At Peulla is the modern Hotel Peulla with excellent facilities. Here is also the Chilean passport control. After a short stay another cruise ship brings you across Lago Todos Los Santos to Petrohué. The lake is dominated by majestic Volcán Osorno 2652 m which is always in view. At Petrohué another bus awaits you to bring you to your destination: either to the port city of Puerto Montt or to Puerto Varas on Lago Llanquihué. The trip between Peulla and Puerto Varas is also very scenic. From Puella to Ensenada the 15 km road is built on the slopes of Volcán Osorno, passing many lava fields from previous volcanic eruptions. From Ensenada onwards the road follows the shores of Lago Llanquihué to Puerto Varas, a major

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PATAGONIA de Mayo bus from the corner of Moreno and Rolando, departing 08:00 for Puerto Pañuelo. The boat leaves Puerto Pañuelo 10:30 Mountain walks There are a number of refugios, from which beautiful mountain walks may be made. Below are just a few of them. • Refugio Cerro López: Take a Colonia Suiza bus and alight at Puente Arroyo López. The trail starts on the left-hand side of the Arroyo López and follows the stream. You pass a waterfall and reach the refugio in about two hours’ walk. From the refugio there is a walking trail to Pico Turista at 2050 m past a small tarn; the lake is an hour’s walk, and Pico Turista a further hour and a half’s walk. There is a road up to Cerro López, and from the car park it is a short and easy walk to the mountain hut. The hut is at 1600 m and can accommodate 100 guests. There is also a small restaurant. The trails are marked red or orange • Refugio Emilio Frey @ 424818: Located in the Cerro Catedral massif on the shore of Laguna Tonchek. It is operated by Club Andino Bariloche. Take a bus from Bariloche to the base of Cerro Catedral, and from there the cable car to the summit. From the summit along the trail marked in blue and red it is a short, easy walk. The mountain hut is at 1700 m and has room for 40 people, and there is a restaurant. From here various peaks may be scaled. Walking from the base takes about three and a half hours, but taking the cable car cuts the time down to two hours. Open all year • Refugio Knapp @ 460010. Located on Cerro Catedral, altitude 1050 m. Operated by Club Andino Bariloche, open all year • Refugio Neumeyer, also referred to as Refugio Challhuaco: Valle de Chall-Huaco @ 428995; operated by Club Andino Bariloche. The turnoff to the refugio is to the left, 6 km south of Bariloche on RN 258. This is a gravel road following for most of the way the Arroyo Challhuaco. This trail can be used by small vehicles and is about 14 km long, crossing four Bariloche

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bridges. At the third bridge the Arroyo Challhuaco turns south. The mountain hut is at 1250 m and is in a forested area. It can accommodate 60 tourists and has a small restaurant; it is open from early December to the end of April, depending on the weather. From the hut you can make several walks; all are easy, but the best views are from Mirador. To Laguna Verde it is an hour’s walk. Mountain guides are available from the hut Hostel Pampa Linda: During the summer season buses make the trip daily along the 86 km road from Bariloche. The hostel and camping grounds are located in the Valle Vuriloche. For 50 km the road is narrow and made of gravel. It is one-way to all the way to Hostel Pampa Linda at 1300 m, and is open to outward traffic from 15:00. The hostel has accommodation for 150 persons, and dining room facilities for 60. Pampa Linda is the starting point for many wonderful hikes as well as for the trek up to Refugio Meiling, the Paso de las Nubes (“Cloud Pass”), Las Ñalcas waterfall, Glaciar Tronador, and Hostel Los Ventisqueros Hostel Los Ventisqueros: Located at 1050 m at the foot of Cerro Tronador in the upper Río Manso valley. The starting point is 10 km further down at Pampa Linda. The hostel is open from early November until mid-April. This is the starting point for climbing Cerro Argentino and Cerro Chileno, and hikes to Glaciar Negro, source of the Río Manso, Cascada Río Blanco, and Garganta del Diablo (“Devil’s Gorge”) in the Tronador area. A more extensive two-day hike may be made to the Puerto Blest–Lago Frías tourist complex, but it should only be attempted by experienced hikers. From Puerto Blest you can return by ferry to Puerto Pañuelo and thence to Bariloche Refugio Otto Meiling: The trail to this mountain shelter starts from Pampa Linda. If you intend to make a more extensive mountain hike (say to Paso de las Nubes) check with the national parks information service at the

RÍO NEGRO room. Refugio Otto Meiling is the starting point for climbs in the Cerro Tronador massif. At the base of the face of Glaciar Castaño Overo there is a small waterfall which is the source of the Arroyo Overo. Likewise the Glaciar Alerce has several waterfalls at its base which form the source of the Arroyo Alerce. This is marvelous hiking country but not without its danger

camping site, located at about 2000 m between the Alerce and Castaño Overo glaciers. At first the trail passes through a forested area where you follow the white arrows. Once you leave the forest behind there are red circles painted on the rocks. Do not take any short cuts! From Pampa Linda it is a 14 km easy climb taking about four and a half hours. The hut is open from early December to the end of April and caters for 60 people. There is also a small café and dining

CATRIEL

Catriel Population: 16 000 Postal code: 8307 @ area code: (0299) Altitude: 400 m Distance from Neuquén: 150 km north on RN 151

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atriel is located on the west bank of the Río Colorado in the northern part of the province some 20 km south of Dique Punto Unido.

E Eating out

The settlement was founded in 1899, helped by a friendly Indian Chief by the name of Cipriano Catriel. Nearby oil was found.

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A Tourist information •

Oficina Municipal de Turismo, Ave. San Martín 59 @ 451136/59 fax

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Restaurant La Farola, Ave. San Martín 388 Restaurant La Llegada, Ave. Las Américas 48 Restaurant La Unión, Ave. San Martín 673. Parrilla Pizzería Diógenes, Ave. San Martín 474 Cafetería Kaluka, Ave. San Martín 549. Dancing

C Accommodation in Catriel Hotels * * *

Hotel Catriel, Av. San Martín near Cipriano Catriel AELPV Hotel Gran Palace, Dinanmarca 370 AELPV Hotel Gran Petróleo, La Pampa 647 AELPV @

Residenciales A B B B

4911204

$H $F $G

2 2 2 2 2 2 2

@

4911424

$F/G $H $H $G

Hostería La Posada del Río Colorado, Ave. Mosconi 1035 Fax 4912132; e-mail: [email protected] AEKLPV @

4911506

$E/F 2

Residencial Victoria, Jujuy 650 LP Residencial Audorindo, Hugo O. Sosa 412 L Residencial Fabiancito, Misiones 565 L Residencial San Rafael, Colombia 215 L

Hosterías *

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PATAGONIA I Post and telegraph • •

S Buses

Post office: Correo Argentino Ave. Roca 470 Telephone: Cotecal Información, La Pampa 498

Bus companies • Alto Valle, Andesmar, El Petróleo • T.A. Chevallier, San Martín 44 @ 452095 ° Mendoza: 11 hrs; El Bolsón 11 hrs, Esquel 131 4 hrs ° Bariloche (8 1 2 hrs) via Catriel, Cipolletti (1 1 2 hrs), Neuquén (2 hrs), and Piedra del Águila (6 hrs); 1–2 weekly

L Financial •

Banco de Río Negro, Ave. San Martín 333 @ 451100

R Air services •

L.A.D.E., Ave. Roca 850 @ 451363

U Motoring

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Y.P.F. Ave. San Martín 95 @ 451171

CERRO CATEDRAL

Cerro Catedral Postal code: 8401 @ area code: (02944) Altitude 1040 m at the base • 2388 m Catedral Sur • 2140 Catedral Norte • Skiing area: 200 ha (494 acres)

C

erro Catedral is one of the most important skiing centers in Argentina. It is situated only 20 km west of Bariloche, with ample means of transport to and from the city. There are 35 ski lifts which can cope with 18 000 skiers per hour, 60 km of downhill ski runs, 15 km of cross-country skiing, and 400 skiing instructors. There are also snow-making machines, just in case the snow is late.

E Eating out

The skiing season runs from mid-June to the end of September. The two parking lots have room for 2000 cars.

Eating out in Villa Cerro Catedral There are a few restaurants and cafés on the ski slopes; the highest one is at Refugio Lynch at the top end of the cable car. • Restaurant Almacén Mountain club • Restaurant Viejo Catedral • Cafetería Pire Hue, at the base • Cafetería Ski Ranch. Disco Eating out on the ski slopes • Restaurant Plaza Oertle; 1400 m at the end of the De la Plaz ski lift a. Parrilla • Cafetería Punta Princesa; 2000 m • Cafetería Condorito, at the end of Condorito III ski lift

B Tourist information •

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Information Gran Catedral, ski village @ 423776 Club Andino Bariloche Secretaría de Turismo Provincia de Río Negro Parques Nacionales have an information center at the base of Cerro Catedral. Information Cerro Catedral @ 460119

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RÍO NEGRO C Accommodation in Cerro Catedral

The Cerro Catedral area has accommodation for 1000 guests. Accommodation and most restaurants are at Villa Cerro Catedral, at the base of Cerro Catedral. Hotels are open all year round, but prices increase during the skiing season. Apart hotels ***

Hotels *** **** ** *

ALP, Villa Catedral, E-mail: [email protected]. Catedral, ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: [email protected] Pire Hué, E-mail: [email protected] Club del Cerro, Base Cerro Catedral Posta Catedral

@ @

460140 fax 460039

@ @

460026 460033

@

460026

@

460064

$B/C 2 $D/E 2

Hosterías * * *

del Cerro AELPSV Fax 460029; E-mail: [email protected] de la Villa, AELPV 460071 Travesía, AELPV

Hospedaje

• Paralelo 41, F. Jerman

I Post and telegraph

$B/C

4

18 000 skiers! Daily lift passes cost $25.00 or 35.00 depending on the season.

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, La Base • Telephone: Telefónica Argentina at Asistancia Médica, base main building near Las Terrazas Shopping and opposite Secretaría de Turismo Provincia de Río Negro Telephones on the ski runs • Plataforma 1200 at the top station of Cóndor 1 ski lift • Near Diente de Diablo restaurant at the top station of Punta Princesa ski lift

S Buses

T.A. Mercedes runs in the skiing season buses every 1 4 hr to the base of the ski lifts from Bariloche; duration 1 2 hour.

a Sport

There is an ice-skating rink, where ice hockey is also played. Skiing information Cerro Catedral is suitable for beginners, intermediate, and advanced skiers. Types of skiing possible are alpine, Nordic (or langlauf), slalom, snow-board, and heli-skiing. The snow is compact and humid at the base, but on the slopes it is powder snow. Snow cover at the base is 0.40 m; at Piedra del Cóndor it reaches 2 m and La Hoya reaches 5 m.

M Services and facilities Hire of ski equipment Ski hire: $15.00–$20.00 depending on type of ski and season. • Nestor Ski and Carlos Oertle Ski lifts There are 34 ski lifts altogether. The cable car, 2900 m long, operates from the base station Tues–Sun 09:00–12:00 and 14:00–17:00 all year round; some chair lifts operate only from June onwards. The ski lifts have an hourly capacity of

s Excursions

Lifts operate all year round and walks can be made in the upper mountain regions. Hikes in the area are organized by the Club Andino Bariloche.

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PATAGONIA

CHOELE-CHOEL

Choele Choel Population: 8500 Postal code: 8360 @ area code: (02946) Altitude: 180 m Distances From Viedma: 240 km north-west on RN 250 • From Neuquén: 220 km east on RN 22 •

C

hoele-Choel is situated on the Río Negro. It is an important crossroads of RN 22 to Neuquén west and Río Colorado east and RN 250 going south to San Antonio and south-east to the capital Viedma. The town was officially founded in 1879 by Colonel Villegas, although it was mentioned during General Rosas’ desert campaign in 1833. The area is irrigated and produces large quantities of fruit. The Río Negro divides here to create the large island of Isla Choele-Choel Grande. The canal which carries water to San Antonio Oeste on the Atlantic coast starts here. There is good pejerrey fishing in the river.

Eating out on RN 22 • Restaurant La Rotonda. Parrilla

I Telephone and telegraph

• •

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Roca near RN 3 @ 42239. • El Valle ° Bariloche (9 hrs) via General Roca (21 4 hrs), Cipolletti (33 4 hrs), and Neuquén (41 2 hrs); 1–2 daily

D Camping •

Municipal camp site beside Río Negro. No facilities

E Eating out • • •

Post Office: Correo Argentino, Ave. San Martín Telephone: Ave. San Martín 1254

Restaurant Ceferino, Kennedy 625 Restaurant El Viajante, Pacheco 726 Cafetería El Viejo Café, Avellaneda 993

U Motoring

•

Service station: Y.P.F., at the intersection of RN 22 and RN 250

C Accommodation in Choele-Choel Hotels *** *

Gran Choel Choel, RN 22 KM 997 Andes, Avellaneda 1066

ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY AELPV

@

443251

$F $G

2 2

@ @ @

442070 442205 442039

$G

2

$G

2

$G

2

Residenciales

A Ruca Antú, República del Uruguay 10 LP A.C.A. members 10% discount B Andes, Avellaneda 1070 FL B Ceferino, Kennedy 635 L

Motels *

A.C.A. Choele-Choel, RN 22 KM 1006, on edge of town AELPSV

Choele Choel

470

RÍO NEGRO

CINCO SALTOS

Cinco Saltos Postal code: 8303 @ area code: (0299) Distance from Neuquén: 36 km east on RN 22

C Accommodation

•

Casino Provincial, Rivadavia 450

I Post and telegraph

•

Telephone: Surtel, Ave. Roca 980

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Sarmiento 266. • La Picasa, terminal @ 480199 • El Valle, terminal @ 481243 • Andesmar and Pehuenche, 25 de Mayo 657 @ 480641 Services ° Sierra Grande via Las Grutas ° Lago Pellegrini and Cipolletti (1 2 hrs); 1 daily

E Eating out • •

n Entertainment

•

A Residencial Cinco Saltos, Don Bosco 372 FLP @ 4980167 A Residencial Oriente, Saavedra 170 LP Accommodation in Chacras sector * Motel Enigma, RN 151 ABELPV @ 4981491 * Motel Fogus, RN 151 ABELPV @ 4982669 Pizzería El Bar, Laprida 70 Pizzería Lorenzo Barros, Ave. Roca 870 Cafetería La Picasa, 25 de Mayo 253

CIPOLLETTI

Cipolletti Population: 61 000 Postal code: 8324 @ area code: (0299) Altitude: 265 m Distances • From Viedma: 550 km north-west on RN 250 and RN 22 • From Neuquén: 3 km east on RN 22

C

ipolletti is located on the Río Negro near its junction with the Río Neuquén. It was founded in 1903 and named after an engineer who spent most of his time looking for suitable places to construct dams to irrigate the fertile land. Since 1899 it has been linked with a railroad. the foundation square of the town site of the former Fortín Primera División. Sidrera La Victoria, M. Moreno 435 is a large producer of apple juice and has guided tours Mon–Fri 14:00–17:00. Also in Moreno 601 is Bodegas Vinateros Unidos, producers of sparkling wines; it too has guided tours.

The town is the center of a huge irrigated fruit-growing area which produces apples and pears. The bridge which connects it with the neighboring city of Neuquén has become a real bottleneck during peak-hour traffic. Of interest is the Museo Provincial Dante Ameghino (Dante Ameghino Provincial Museum) and

471

Cipolletti

PATAGONIA C Accommodation in Cipolletti Hotels *** * * *

San Remo, Mengelle 248 E-mail: [email protected] Gran Cipolletti, Irigoyen 385 Ludman, España 185 Wahiba, Yrigoyen 498

ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY

@

4772752

@ @

4771568 4782292

@

4781827

LP LPS

@ @

AELPSV

@

AELPSV AELPV AELPSV

$F $F $G $F

2 2 2 2

4718002 4781270

$G $H

2 2

4782878

$G

2

Motels *

Cipolletti (A.C.A.), RN 22 near Avenida L. Toschi ABEFLPV

Hospedajes

A Astoria, Italia 39 A 9 de Julio, 9 de Julio 699

Hosterías *

Le Bois, Villegas 376

B Tourist information •

L Financial

•

Delegación Provincial de Turismo, RN 22 KM 1212 @ 4776833

•

E Eating out • • •

Restaurant Club Cipolletti, Mengelle 210. Parrilla Restaurant Sancho Panza, Roca 471. Parrilla Restaurant Tía Catalina, Roca 243

M Services and facilities

•

Casino Río Negro, RN 22 KM 1216 Tanger discotheque, Roca 163 Zeppelin discotheque, Miguel Muñoz 557

Service station: A.C.A., corner of Luis Toschi and RN 22. Restaurant

p Sightseeing

•

I Post and telephone •

Laundromat: Laverap, Roca 521

U Motoring

•

n Entertainment • • •

Banco de la Provincia de Río Negro, Roca 599 @ 472816 Cambio Olano y Cía, Roca 335 @ 471219 fax 473967

Telephone; Telefónica Argentina, M. Muñoz 37

Museo Provincial Dante Ameghino (Dante Ameghino Provincial Museum), Pasaje Pichi Ruca near Yrigoyen 1047. This nine-room museum has a collection of musical instruments and arms used by gauchos; a local history section, an interesting biological section with a collection of

S Buses from Cipolletti Bus companies • El Valle, 9 de Julio 646 @ 472235 • La Puntual, 9 de Julio 646 @ 474902 • T.A.C., Italia 345 @ 4773236 • T.A. Chevallier, 9 de Julio 646 @ 474902 Services • Bariloche (6 hrs); 2–3 daily • Choele-Choel (3 hrs) via Villa Regina (11 2 hrs) and Catriel (2 hrs); 1 daily • General Roca (3 4 hour) via Cinco Saltos (1 2 hour); 3 daily • Mendoza (131 2 hrs); 1–2 daily • Neuquén(1 2 hour); 6 daily

Cipolletti

472

RÍO NEGRO butterflies, beetles, spiders, snakes and fishes. It also features a quite

interesting paleontological and archeological section

EL BOLSÓN

El Bolsón Population: 11 000 Postal code: 8430 @ area code:(02944) Distances From Bariloche: 112 km south on RN 258 • From Esquel: 156 km north on RN 40 then RN 258 •

E

l Bolsón is located in the south-western part of Río Negro Province, almost on the border with Chubut Province and not far from the Chilean border, only 12 km from Parque Nacional Lago Puelo in Chubut Province. Over the last decade or so it has developed into a substantial tourist resort in summer, and to a lesser degree, in winter as well.

D Camping

The town is located in a wide fertile valley surrounded by spectacular mountain scenery, in an area that invites the hiker. There are waterfalls everywhere and good fishing for trout and salmon in the clear mountain streams. This is orchard country where strawberries, cherries, and walnuts are grown, and it is also a center of hop production. Excursions are possible to Bariloche, and Lago Epuyén is within half an hour’s drive. The summer season runs from January to the middle of March.

•

Camping del Sol, Ave. Castelli near Río Quemquemtreu Camping outside El Bolsón • Camping El Bolsón, RN 258, 2 km from town • Río Azul, 7 km west Camping on Lago Puelo • Camping Lago Puelo, 18 km south off main road. Views across the lake to Cerro Tres Picos

E Eating out

• •

A Festivals

• • •

B Tourist information

•

•

•

•

Fiesta del Lúpulo (Hop Festival): first week of February

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Ave. San Martín near Roca, on the Plaza Pagano @ 492204, fax 492813. Open daily 09:00–20:00. Sketch maps for walks available Club Andino Piltriquitrón, corner of Avenida Sarmiento and Roca @ 492600. Not always open

•

Restaurant Don Diego, Hotel Amancay, Avenida San Martín 3221 Restaurant El Viejo Maitén, Roca 359. Parrilla Restaurant La Vertiente, Güemes 458 Pizzas Roma, San Martín 2100 Cafetería Cerro Lindo, San Martín 2524 Cafetería Jauja, Avenida San Martín 2867 Cafetería Ricar-Dos, corner of Roca and P Moreno

n Entertainment

• •

473

Disco Bar 442, Dorrego 442 Disco Life, M. Moreno 3450. Weekends

El Bolsón

PATAGONIA To Bariloche 258

AVE . P

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CO

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11

I

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To Lago Puelo

El Bolsón

474

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AN MA AVE . S

S

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To Esquel and El Hoyo

AN

LAVAL

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ES

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24 GÜEM

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23

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Río Quemquemtreu

R

21 22 BERU

RÍO NEGRO Key to map C D E H I P $ T

Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Cooperativa Telefónica Hospital Dirección Municipal de Turismo A.C.A. Banco de la Provincia de Río Negro Don Otto bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 4 5 6 8 15

Residencial Edelweiss Residencial La Paz Hotel Amancay Hotel Cordillera Residencial Unelén Residencial Salinas

17 21 22 23 25

Residencial Henríquez Albergue Sol del Valle Residencial Valle Nuevo Camping del Sol Residencial La Posada de Hamelin

4 Eating out 10 11 14 18 24

Cafetería Jauja Cafetería Ricar-Dos Restaurant El Viejo Maitén Cafetería Cerro Lindo Restaurant La Vertiente

5 Entertainment 2 9

•

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Ave. San Martín 2806 Telephone: Cooperativa Telefónica, Juez Hernández 429

•

Banco de Río Negro, San Martín corner of Dorrego @ 492201 Banco de la Nación, Ave. San Martín block 2500 near P. Hube

M Services and facilities •

Bicycle hire: Bike Way, Ave. San Martín

R Air services

Only small airplanes can land here. • L.A.D.E., Gobernador Costello 3253 @ 492206. For flight itineraries see L.A.D.E. section under Air srvices from Buenos Aires City on page 66 • S.A.P.S.E. (Servicios Aéreos Patagonicos S.E.), J. Hernández 567 @ 492329

•

7 Tour operators and car rental 12 Bolsón Tours

0 Services 13 16 19 20 26

Via Bariloche Andesmar Banco de la Nación T.A.C. Centro Artesanal

Centro Artesanal Cumey Antu, Ave. San Martín 2020 Skiing: Cerro Perito Moreno is located 21 km north of El Bolsón on the Mallín Ahogado road. The base is at 1050 m and the summit is at 2216 m. The ski season runs from July to September. In the winter season there is a regular bus service from El Bolsón. The snow cover is 1 m at the base. The infrastructure includes 5 ski lifts, Refugio Perito Moreno for 80 persons (sleeping bag accommodation) @ (02944) 493912. The club also runs ski schools and has hire of skiing equipment. Snow conditions are humid at the base but powder snow on the upper slopes. The skiable area is 3 ha (7 acres) suitable for alpine and Nordic skiing. The lift tickets cost $12.50 per day Water-skiing: Lago Epuyén and Lago Puelo

p Sightseeing

U Motoring •

L.A.D.E. S.A.P.S.E.

a Sport

•

L Financial •

3 7

Disco Life Disco Bar 442

I Telephone and telegraph •

6 Airline offices

•

Service station: A.C.A., corner of Avenida San Martín and Bolívar

Y Shopping

El Bolsón is well known for its natural home-made berry jams. Goat yoghurt is also made here. On Plaza Pagano a fería artesanal is held on Tues, Thurs and Sat 10:00–14:00; here local artists sell their wood carvings, leather goods ,and musical instruments.

Museo Ornitológico (Ornithological Museum), Saavedra 2759. On show are 200 specimens of birds found in Patagonia. Open daily 10:00–21:00

s Excursions Tour operators • Ayle Turismo, San Martín 2963 @ 482392 • Bolsón Tours, Roca 357 @ 492161

475

El Bolsón

PATAGONIA C Accommodation in El Bolsón

Accommodation can be difficult to find during the high season. Hotels *** **

Cordillera, Avenida San Martín 3220 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Amancay, San Martín 3217 near Hernández Fax 492622 AEFGJLPSUV

Hosterías *

Steiner, San Martín 600

AELPV

Residenciales

A Edelweiss, Angel del Agua 364 LP A La Posada de Hamelin, Intendente Granollers 2197 LP A Los Notros, Salminiac 459 LP B Henríquez, Rivadavia 2590 L B La Paz, Sarmiento 3212 near Hernández L B Salinas, Roca 641 L Shared bathroom B Unelén, Azcuénaga 350 L B Valle Nuevo, 25 de Mayo 2329 L

Cabañas **

Amancay Alpinas, Belgrano 1031

AEFGJLPUV

@

492235

$F

2

@

492222

$F

2

@

492224

$G

2

@

492594

$H

2

@ @ @ @

492030 492503 492881 492252

$G $G $H $H

2 2 2 1

@ @ @

492396 492729 492087

$J $H $H

1 2 2

@

492675

$H

4

@ @

492954 492954

$E $E

4 4

Albergues

• La Alegría, Camino de los Nogales, • Sol del Valle, 25 de Mayo 2367 • Ecologico, Viamonte near Río Quemquemreu DEV

Accommodation in Villa Turística Villa Turística is located 3 km from the town center. Cabañas *** *** *** ***

El Arroyito Lincoln Ranch Complejo Piltri-Hue 3 cabañas Complejo Paraíso, 4 cabañas on a small farm

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY ACDEFGJKLPTUVY ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

@ @ @

492715

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

@

492766

del Faldeo Tito’s On La Posta a horticultural de Themisfarm; 4 cabañas El Parque Fuchs, Iris La Montaña,

AEFGJLPUV AELPV L L L L

@ @ @ @ @ @

492457 492772 492470 492782 492171 492776

$E $F $F $F $F

4 4 4 4 2

AELPSV

@

492505

$G

2

$H

1

* **

B B B B

Hosterías *

Villa Turismo, RN 258 south

492711

Accommodation in Barrio Luján Barrio Luján is 6 km from the town center.

La Casona de Odile, AELPV On a small farm with 6 double rooms @ 492753 • Albergue El Pueblito, located on Río Quemquemtreu; capacity: 30 persons

*

El Bolsón

476

RÍO NEGRO Accommodation in El Bolsón — continued Accommodation in Mallín Ahogado Mallín Ahogado is located 4 km from the town center. Cabañas Los Siete Suabos, • La Morada del Sol, 8 rooms on a small farm 14 km B El Cortijo del Monte, On a small farm

***

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

FL

@

492324 fax

$F

2

@

493201/3

$G

1

@

492784

$G

4

Mountain Refugios The Club Andino operates several refugios in the hiking area around El Bolsón. For information ring @ 492600 Ave. Sarmiento near Roca. • Refugio Cerro Hielo Azul, KM 20 • Refugio Cajón del Azul, KM 10 • Refugio Don Hilario, Cañadón del Rayado Access from Cajón del Azul • Refugio Perito Moreno, Cerro Perito Moreno KM 25 Ski hire, ski lift ADEV • Refugio Pilquitrón, Cerro Pilquitrón KM 13 BDEV • Refugio Cerro Lindo, Cerro Lindo KM 15 BCV

• Emprotour, Azcona 2224 @ 492092 • Grado 42, Ave. Belgrano 406 @ 493124 Excursions • Río Azul: A 10 km easy hike

•

@

493296

@

493912

$I $J

1 1

$J $I

1 1

Lago Puelo: 15 km south. Micros depart at 07:00, 12:15, and 18:00 and return at 08:00, 13:00, and 19:00. The trip takes about 45 minutes

S Buses from El Bolsón Bus companies Bus terminal is on Ave. San Martín 2553. • Andesmar, Avenida Sarmiento @ 492178 • Charter @ 492333 • Don Otto @ 492727 • T.A. Mercedes @ 492727 • T.A.C., Hube 439 @ 493142 • Vía Bariloche, Roca 357 @ 492161 Long-distance services •

Destination Bariloche

• •

Buenos Aires $75.00 Comodoro Rivadavia

• • • • • •

Fare $10.00

Services 5 daily

2 daily El Maitén 3 weekly Esquel $16.00 3 daily Mercedes Esquel (via Parque Nacional) $18.00 1–2 daily Lago Puelo $3.00 6 daily Neuquén $42.00 Río Gallegos $79.00 1 daily

Duration Company 3 hrs Don Otto, Andesmar, Charter, T.A. Mercedes, Via Bariloche 26 hrs T.A. Mercedes, Vía Bariloche Don Otto, La Unión, T.A.C. Minivan, T.A. Mercedes 3 hrs Don Otto, Andesmar, T.A.

1

Zabala Daniel hour Quimey Quipan 10 hrs Andesmar, T.A. Mercedes T.A.C. 2

477

El Bolsón

PATAGONIA •

• •

El Hoyo de Epuyén: 18 km south on the RN 258. El Hoyo de Epuyén can be reached by micros which run every Mon, Thurs, and Sat, leaving El Bolsón at 13:30 and 19:40, and returning from El Hoyo de Epuyén at 14:30 and 20:40. The trip takes about one hour. See also El Hoyo de Epuyén on page 508 Lago Epuyén Waterfalls in the area include: Cascada Escondida, 8 km north on

•

the way to Mallín Ahogado; Cascada de la Virgen Misionera, 12 km north near Rinconada de Nahuel Pan; and Cascada Mallín, 12 km north near a camping spot Complejo Invernal Perito Moreno (Perito Moreno Winter Complex): 7 km north. It is possible to stay the night in the Club Andino Piltriquitron’s refugio; however it is usually full of andinistas, so check beforehand

GENERAL ROCA

General Roca Population: 63 000 Postal code: 8332 @ area code: (02941) Altitude: 236 m Distances From Viedma: 513 km north-west on RN 250 and RN 22 • From Neuquén: 37 km east on RN 22 •

G

eneral Roca is located on the north side of the Río Negro. Its origins go back to 1879 when the Fuerte General Roca was established here. The first French and German immigrants arrived in 1884. The fledgeling town was destroyed in 1899 when the Río Negro flooded the plain.

B Tourist information

The present site is 5 km west. Of interest is the Museo Regional Lorenzo Vintter (Lorenzo Vintter Regional Museum) with memorabilia of the desert campaign.

•

Oficina de Turismo, RN 22 @ 425565

E Eating out

• •

Restaurant Bodegón, Ave. Roca 1356 Restaurant de Felipe, Buenos Aires 1569

C Accommodation in General Roca Hotels

@ @ @ @

436680 422002 425012 423610

$E $F

@ @

425565 422168

$G

2

AELPV

@

422122

$H

2

LP L

@ @

434509 fax 422584

$F $I

2 1

Huemul, Belgrano 1479 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Austral, Ave. Roca 990 near Alsina AEFGJLPSUV * Avenida, Avenida Roca 1385 AELPV * Bristol, Ave. Roca 1430 AELPV * Hostal de la Manzana, RN 22 near Santa Cruz AEFLPV • Toscano, Italia 1510

*** **

Hosterías *

Las Mutisias, Isidro Lobos 654

Residenciales

A Sol del Valle, Tucumán 1610 B Montanari, Mitre 74

General Roca

478

2 2

$F/G 2

RÍO NEGRO • • •

R Air services

Restaurant Le Trillage, 9 de Julio 833 Restaurant Jóckey Club, Tucumán 701 Pizzería El Palacio de la Pizza, Sarmiento 1440

The airport is located 5 km from downtown on RN 151 and RN 22. • Aerolíneas Argentinas, Tucumán 645 @ 422026 • TAN, Rhode 478 @ 423132 • S.A.P.S.E. (Servicios Aéreos Patagonicos S.E.) Tucumán 645 @ 422026 • LAPA. See Air services from Buenos Aires City on page 66

n Entertainment • •

Confitería Aquellare, Paraguay 1261. Dancing Confitería Punto Cero, Ave. Roca 1431. Dancing

I Post and telegraph • •

S Buses

Post office: Correo Argentino, Ave. Roca 1462 Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Tucumán 838

Bus companies • El Petroleo, bus terminal local 14 @ 423654 • El Valle, 9 de Julio 547 @ 424648 • El Canario Services • Bariloche (6 hrs) via Cipolletti (3 4 hour), Neuquén; 1–2 daily • Choele-Choel (21 4 hrs); 2 daily • Ingeniero Jacobacci via El Cuy; 2 weekly

L Financial •

Banco Río Negro, Ave. Roca 1280 @ 422031

U Motoring •

Shell, Mendoza 1402

INGENIERO JACOBACCI

Ingeniero Jacobacci Population: 4500 Postal code: 8418 @ area code: (02940) Distances • From Bariloche: 213 km east on RN 23 • From Viedma: 626 km west on RN 3 and RN 23

I

ngeniero Jacobacci is located in a hilly section in the south eastern part of the province on the main Buenos Aires–Bariloche railroad line. It is also the starting point of the small-gauge railroad “La Trochita” going to Esquel in Chubut Province. It has a dry climate. Economic activities center around mining and cattle ranching. Of interest are the Museo de Ciencias Naturales e História Regional “Jorge H. Gerhold” (Jorge H. Gerhold Regional Natural Science and History Museum). Excursions to Laguna Carri-Lauquen. Forty km south near the village of Ojos de Agua — a train station on the

Trochita line — are indigenous rock paintings at Campo de Cabañares.

C Accommodation *

**

479

Hotel Cumelcán, Roldán 186 AELPSV @ 42016 $I 1 Hostería Gran Argentino, San Martín 285 AEFGJLPUV @ 42054 $G 2

Ingeniero Jacobacci

PATAGONIA •

R Air services •

S.A.P.S.E. (Servicios Aéreos Patagonicos S.E.) Julio A. Roca 189 @ 42026. See Air services from Viedma on page 492

•

S Buses •

Transporte Jacobsen runs a service on Fridays to Esquel ($10.00; 5 hrs) via El Maitén Transporte Mansilla runs a weekly service to Viedma via San Antonio Oeste

CODAO and La Puntual run a daily service to Bariloche ($14.00)

LOS MENUCOS

Los Menucos Postal code: 8353 @ area code: (02940) Altitude: 803 m Distances From Bariloche: 357 km east on RN 23 • From Viedma: 498 km west on RN 3 and RN 23 •

L

os Menucos is a small town in south-eastern Meseta on the main Buenos Aires–Bariloche railroad line. On the north side is a small mountain chain, the reddish-colored Cerros Colorados. The climate is dry with a lot of snow in winter. It is a convenient stopover for motorists, but facilities are basic.

*

C Accommodation

•

Motel A.C.A., Intersection RN 23 and RP 310 AELPV @ 492044 $H 2

E Eating out

A Residencial Gavilán, Avenida San Martín near Santa Fe LP @ 492065 $I 1

Restaurant Sergio Victor Palma, Santa Fe

MAQUINCHAO

Maquinchao Postal code: 8422 @ area code: (02940) Altitude: 887 m Distances • From Bariloche: 287 km east on RN 23 • From Viedma: 572 km west on RN 3 and RN 23

M

aquinchao is located in the south-eastern meseta on the main Buenos Aires–Bariloche railroad line. Judging by the name, the Tehuelche Indians used this area as winter camps. This is a dry area but heavy snow falls in winter. It is a convenient stopover for motorists using the

Los Menucos

RN 23 to go to Bariloche; with basic tourist facilities.

480

RÍO NEGRO C Accommodation

I Post and telegraph

•

A Residencial Victoria, San Martín near Belgrano LP @ 491093 $I 1

Post office: Correo Argentino, Independencia

E Eating out •

Restaurant Los Vascos, General Roca

PARQUE NACIONAL NAHUEL HUAPI

Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi @ area code: (02944)

P

arque Nacional Nahuel Huapi was created in 1943 and covers about 950 000 ha (2,3475 000 acres). It is part of the Patagonian meseta, but includes the eastern spurs of the Andes with the Cerro Tronador at 3554 m as the highest elevation. The area covered by this park has the largest concentration of lakes in Argentina and is therefore also known as the “lakes district”. Between 750 m and 950 m the flora consists of coihues, ñires, alerces, and cypress, forming forests which become denser towards the Chilean border which has a higher rainfall. In the more arid eastern sector grow calafate bushes, palos piche , and

cypress. Over 1100 m begins the zone mostly covered by lengas. Wildlife is represented by pudu deer (a rare dwarf variety), stags, and pumas; and there are still some pockets where the very rare comadrejita, a south American marsupial, occurs; black-necked swans, cormorants and cóndors are also represented. The lakes and rivers are teeming

C Accommodation in Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi *

Hostería Puerto Blest, AELPV @ 425443 $D Half board. The only access is by boat or by trail from Pampa Linda or from Chile

2

Accommodation on Lago Mascardi *** **

Hotel Tronador, at the west end ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Open November–April Hostería Lago Mascardi, RN 258 KM 33.5 ADEFKLPTUV E-mail: [email protected]

@

468127

@

(0268) 4300839

@

467422

@

467333

$D/E 2

@

467385

$F

2

@

422181

$F

2

Accommodation on Lago Gutiérrez Hosterías *** *** *

Shekina, Villa Los Coihues ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: [email protected] El Retorno, Villa Los Coihues KM 12 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Half board Lago Gutiérrez, RN 258 KM 16 AELPV Half board. E-mail: [email protected]

Accommodation Pampa Linda *

Hostería Pampa Linda, Cerro Tronador AELPSV Closed in winter

481

Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi

PATAGONIA •

with trout and other members of the salmonoid family. Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi is shared by the Provinces of Neuquén and Río Negro. It is best accessed from Bariloche and Villa La Angostura in Province Neuquén and can be visited all year round.

• •

s Excursions

•

B Tourist information

The national park has ranger stations in the following locations: Villa La Angostura, Brazo Blest, Villa Cerro Catedral, Cuyin-Manzano in the Valle Encantado, Lago Fonck, the western section of Lago Gutiérrez, Lago Steffen, Isla Victoria, Mascardi, Puyehue, Villarino, Villegas, Huemul, Lago Espejo, and Pampa Linda (on the access road to Cerro Tronador).

•

D Camping •

Camping Lago Gutiérrez del A.C.A., KM 13; forested area open all year; forested area Camping Lago Roca, Cascada Los Alerces @ 432741 Camping Las Carpitas, RN 258 KM 33 Lago Mascardi; capacity: 70 tents on 3.5 ha (8 acres). $J 1

Camping Pampa Linda, is located at the base of Cerro Tronador; it belongs to the Club Andino Bariloche

“Seven lakes” route: This is the most popular circuit. It covers the northern section of the park and also takes in part of Parque Nacional Lanín. The route goes via Lagos Correntoso, Escondido, Hermoso, Machonico, Villarino, Falkner, and Meliquina Southern lakes area: The spectacular scenic route to Lago Mascardi follows a sealed road which branches off to the south near Lago Los Moscos to Lago Roca and the Cascada Los Alerces. This route can be varied by going west to Villa Mascardi on the RN 254 and then on to Cerro Tronador and Glaciar Tronador

PUERTO PAÑUELO

Puerto Pañuelo Postal code: 8409 @ area code: (02944) Distance from Bariloche: 29 km west on RN 237

S

ituated on Lago Nahuel Huapi opposite Isla Victoria, Puerto Pañuelo is the starting point for all launch excursions on the lake.

E Eating out

Puerto Pañuelo and Llao Llao virtually merge; hence Llao Llao is included here. Hotel Llao Llao resort is an architectural masterpiece blending in well in the surrounding mountain region; it was refurbished in 1993 and is classified as a National Historic Landmark. Also included here are the hotels around Colonia Suiza, and Circuito Chico. All these destinations have virtually 24-hour bus services to and from Bariloche.

Puerto Pañuelo

Eating out in Llao Llao • Cafetería Las Cartas, Avenida Bustillo KM 24.5 Eating out on Isla Victoria • Hostería Hualquil

S Buses

Buses run to and from Bariloche every 40 minutes; 24 hour service.

# Water transport

During the summer holidays launches and catamarans are usually very crowded. Catamarans (which carry names of Río Paraná Provinces) have no

482

RÍO NEGRO C Accommodation in Puerto Pañuelo ***** **

&

Hotel Tunquelen, Avenida Bustillo KM 24 ACDEFGHJKLMNPRS$TUVXYZ Fax 448106; E-mail: [email protected] @ 448233 Hostería La Posada de la Flor, Avenida Bustillo KM 25 AEFGJLPSUV E-mail: [email protected] @ 448070 fax

$C/D 2 $G

2

Accommodation in Llao Llao ***** * * ***

Hotel Llao Llao Resort, Avenida Bustillo KM 25 ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$TUVXYZ E-mail: [email protected] @ 448530 Hotel Katy, KM 24.3 AELPSV @ 448023 Hotel Panamericano Gran Hotel, Avenida Bustillo KM 23 E-mail: [email protected] @ 448022 Cabañas El Bouquet, Avenida Bustillo KM 24.4 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 448269 @ 448113

Accommodation Lago Moreno *

Hotel Lago Moreno

Accommodation Circuito Chico Hotel Laguna El Trébol Hostería Valle del Sol E- mail: [email protected] * Hostería Las Cartas • Albergue Club de Campo *** Cabañas Villa Pañil, Ave. Bustillo KM 20 Web site: www.villapanil.com.ar *

***

@

448086

@

448164

@ @ @ @

448353 448347 448353 448585

$A/B 2 $F 2

$F

4

$E/F

4

open deck. Open-deck boats are the MV Modesta Victoria and Don Luis operated by Turi Sur. All boats have cafeterias.

boat trip is from Puerto Pañuelo to Puerto Anchorena on Isla Victoria (with its forests of arrayanes)

The ticket office for catamarans is past the national park kiosk; you also have to buy a national park ticket when going on a cruise. The most popular excursion is to Puerto Blest passing Isla Centinela at the entrance to Brazo Blest continuing to Puerto Blest where you disembark to take a short bus ride to Lago Frías; this is also the route of the scenic trip to Chile via Paso Perito Rosales. Another favorite

a Sport Sport in Llao Llao • Golf: Villa Llao Llao KM 27; 18 holes; this golf course is part of Llao Llao resort hotel; it opens at 09:00 and last round is at 18:00. No fees for guests staying at the resort hotel; for visitors it is $60.00

RÍO COLORADO

Río Colorado Population: 10 500 Area code: 8138 @ area code: (02931) Altitude: 80 m Distance from Viedma: 306 km north-west on RN 250, then north on RN 251 and east on RN 22

T

he town of Río Colorado is in the north-eastern sector of the province, on the Río Colorado opposite La Adela in La Pampa Province. The ford here 483

Río Colorado

PATAGONIA through the Río Colorado was known as Paso Alsina and was used by General A. Roca’s troops during the Desert Campaign.

U Motoring

The first settlers were the Burnichón brothers. First came the railroad and in 1909 the road bridge was built. In 1915 a flood devastated the fledgeling town and it was consequently moved to the present location.

•

S Buses

The bus terminal is in Anderson 450 near RN 22 @ 432890/92. Bus companies • Alto Valle, La Puntual, Comahue, La Unión del Sud, El Petróleo, Costera Criolla, T.A.C., Via Bariloche @ 431101 Bus services • Allen via Villa Regina; 1 daily • Bahía Blanca • El Bolsón via Cipolletti, Neuquén, and Bariloche; 1 daily • Sierra Grande (41 2 hrs) via General Conesa and San Antonio Oeste (21 2 hrs); 2–3 daily

E Eating out •

Restaurant Sandra, H.Yrigoyen 256

I Post and telegraph • •

Correo Argentino, Roca near Moreno Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, H. Yrigoyen

L Financial •

Shell, RN 22 @ 432518

Banco Río Negro, Belgrano 590 @ 432296

C Accommodation in Río Colorado Hotels * *

Ancona, J.B. Justo 841 Quelú Leufú, RN 22

Residenciales A A B B B

Homi, Aznariz 285 El Gran Sasso, J.B. Justo near Berutti Argentino, Ave. San Martín 337 Idéal, San Martín 651 Patagonia, RN 22 KM 856

Motels *

Provincial, RN 22

AELPV AELPV

@ @

432280 430744

$G $G

2 2

LP EFLP L L FL

@ @ @ @ @

432187 432188 432212 432304 432003

$G $G $H

2 2 2

AELPV

@

432174

SAN ANTONIO OESTE

San Antonio Oeste Population: 12 000 Postal code: 8520 @ area code: (02934) Altitude: sea level Distance from Viedma: 173 km west on RN 3

S

an Antonio Oeste is on the Golfo San Matías. The first known landing on the spot was made during the voyages of Juan de La Piedra in 1779, but it was not until 1905 that a small settlement began here. Nowadays it harbors a

San Antonio Oeste

484

RÍO NEGRO substantial fishing fleet; the overseas port facilities are at Punta Villarino 58 km east across the bay. The port facilities are geared towards exportation of horticultural products. The climate is mild all year round. The fishing industry is based on shellfish, which is plentiful in these waters.

Eating out outside San Antonio Oeste • Restaurant El Cruce, corner of RN 3 and RN 251 Eating out in Las Grutas Restaurants • Aladín, Ave. Río Negro 607 • Aqualung, Viedma 624 • Bariloche, Avenida Bariloche 553 near Pomona. Parrilla • Costa Sur, Intendente Berciano 209 behind casino • El Aljibe, Viedma 750 • La Barca, Viedma 568. Parrilla • La Caracola, Bariloche 847. Pastas, seafood • Los Chañares, Jacobacci 180. Seafood • Margarita, Mainque 680. Bar • Cafetería Jonoe’s, corner of Pomona and Villa Regina • Fast food El Patio, Viedma 824

Balneario Las Grutas The seaside resort of Balneario Las Grutas (often referred to simply as Las Grutas), is included here and its tourist facilities are described under the appropriate headings. The name is derived from the many caves which are in the rocks along the seashore. It is located 20 km south on RP 2 on the Golfo San Matías and was developed in the 1960s. Its safe sandy beaches attract many visitors during the summer; the casino is the attraction at night. The resort is open from December to March only, and is closed for the rest of the year. It is claimed that the waters here are the clearest and most temperate along the Argentine coast. The sandy beach is also perfect for spending leisure hours basking in the sun. The battering of the sea has created huge caverns in the cliffs behind the sandy beach.

n Entertainment

• •

Kraft Discotheque, San Martín 650 La Pajarera, Belgrano 643. Bar and dancing Entertainment in Las Grutas • Casino Las Grutas, Ing. Jacobacci near 3a Bajada; open daily in season from 22:30–04:00 • Disco Jumbo Power, Allen near Mainqué • Disco Marnos Discotheque, Viedma near Lamarque, upstairs

B Tourist information •

I Post and telegraph

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Brown 76 @ 21872

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Brown 305 near Belgrano • Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Pellegrini 295 near Belgrano Post and telegraph in Las Grutas • Post office: Correo Argentino, Villa Regina near Pomona • Telephone: Cooperativa Telefónica, Ave. Río Negro 715

Tourist information in Las Grutas • Delegación Municipal de Turismo, Ave. Costanera near Catriel @ 497470

E Eating out • • • • • •

Restaurant El Ancla, 9 de Julio 130. Pasta and seafood Restaurant El Chavo, Belgrano 749 Restaurant El Retorno, Pellegrini 253 Restaurant Olaf, Antártida Argentina 2556 Cafetería Mirror, San Martín 708 Cafetería Stop, H. Yrigoyen 611

L Financial

•

485

Banco de Río Negro, H.Yrigoyen 624 @ 421225

San Antonio Oeste

PATAGONIA C Accommodation in San Antonio Oeste Hotels *** *

San Miguel, Belgrano 859 O’Zieri, Mitre near Victoria

Motels **

Colonial, San Martín 980 El Cruce Fax 422042

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AELPV AEFGJLPUV

@ @

421220 421923

$F/G 2 $G 2

@

421360

$F

2

@ @

421430 497135

$G

1

@ @ @ @

421474 421588 421376 421323

$H $H $H $H

2 2 1 2

@

497203

$E/F $F/G $F/H $F/H

2 2 2 2

Hosterías

Kandava, Sarmiento 220 near San Martín AELPV Fax 430319 • Isabel, Sierra Paileman 470

*

Hospedajes A A A B

Rayen, 9 de Julio 378 LP España, Sarmiento 147 near H Yrigoyen ELP Iberia, Sarmiento 241 LP Premier, H. Yrigoyen 609 near Moreno L

Accommodation in Balneario Las Grutas Apart hotels • Kette, Ave. Bariloche 317

Hotels **** ** ** **

ABCEGHP

Riviera, Ave. Costanera near Comallo ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ @ 497357 Acantilado, Ave. San Antonio 1065 AEFGJLPUV @ 497432 Antares, Villa Regina 624 AEFGJLPSUV @ 497226 fax Torre Vado, Ave. Bustillo near CatrielAEFGJLPSUV @ 497162

Hospedajes

A Choele-Choel, Pichi Mahuida 369 LP A El Pobre Gaucho, Avenida Bariloche 871 FLP Fax 497190 A Las Grutas, Lamarque 871 near Viedma LP B Solana del Mar, Avenida Costanera 771 near Pomona L

@

497242

$G

1

@

497011

$F

4

@

497150

$G/H 2

@

497600

$F/G 2

Cabañas * *

Unidad Turística A.C.A., Avenida Bariloche 98 near Costanera AELPV @ 497300 fax El Mangangá, Sierra Colorada 559 AELPV @ 497383

M Services and facilities

•

Services and facilities in Las Grutas • Bicycle hire, Complejo Casablanca, Playa 3a Bajada

U Motoring

6 1

S.A.P.S.E. (Servicios Aéreos Patagonicos S.E.), San Martín 195 @ 430170

RN 23 west to Bariloche via Valchetta and Ingeniero Jacobacci is intermittently sealed. • Service stations: Y.P.F, Belgrano near 25 de Mayo

R Air services

Aéropuerto Saint Exupery is on the access road to Las Grutas. • L.A.D.E., H. Yrigoyen 593 @ 421500; for flight itineraries see the L.A.D.E. section under Buenos Aires city on page 66

San Antonio Oeste

$D/E $H

T Trains

F C General Roca station is at R. Mejia 9.

486

RÍO NEGRO S Buses from San Antonio Oeste

The bus terminal is on Antártida Argentina 2526 @ 421580. Bus companies • Costera Criolla, bus terminal • Don Otto, Sarmiento 280 @ 421247 • El Pingüino, bus terminal • El Valle, bus terminal • La Puntual, bus terminal @ 422573 • Transporte Las Grutas, Ave. San Martín 621 @ 422573 • Transportes Patagónicos, Sarmiento 380 Local and provincial bus services • Bariloche (13 hrs, $30.80) via Valcheta and Ingeniero Jacobacci • Cinco Saltos via Choele Choel, General Roca, and Cipolletti • Sierra Grande (11 4 hour); 1 daily • Viedma (3 hrs, $8.10) 12 daily Long-distance services • • • • •

Destination Fare Bahía Blanca $15.40 Buenos Aires $48.40 Comodoro Rivadavia Córdoba $51.70 Puerto Madryn $12.10

Services

Duration

Company Don Otto Don Otto TUS/TUP TUS/TUP Don Otto

Buses from Las Grutas The bus terminal is on Ave. Río Negro 715 @ (02934) 497001. • Transporte Las Grutas, Ave. Belgrano 1053 @ 421429 ° San Antonio Oeste; 4 daily in summer • •

Passenger train to Bahía Blanca: 10 hours Passenger train to Buenos Aires: 22 hours

s Excursions Tour operators • Saotur, Ave. Belgrano 813 @ 421482 Tour operators in Las Grutas • Turismo Ecológico, Primera y Segunda Bajada Excursions • Piedras Coloradas is a section on the beach 5 km south. Here reddish granite rocks contrast with the sandy beach. Easy walk along beach • Cañadón de las Ostras is located 14 km south. Embedded in the sedimentary rocks are fossilised oysters. Tours with 4WD vehicles are organized • Bariloche via Los Menucos and Ingeniero Jacobacci: RN 23. The first 200 km of the journey is through

•

487

savannah country, which provides fodder for a few cattle, and there are views of the Salina del Gualicho salt flats. The drive over the Patagonian meseta is fairly monotonous until you reach Ingeniero Jacobacci. From here south the scenery become more interesting; here the road and the railroad run side by side for most of the way Neuquén: RP 2 meets the Zapala–Buenos Aires highway at Choele-Choel. This is a very monotonous trip until you reach the Río Negro at Pomona. From Choele-Choel it is 223 km to Neuquén, through an unbroken line of groves of small trees which shelter vineyards and orchards. The road follows the Río Negro valley, which through irrigation has been converted into a continuous apple and pear orchard. The 424 km from Neuquén to Bariloche skirts the entire length of the reservoir formed by the Dique Ezequiel Ramos Mejía. It then drops over an escarpment to

San Antonio Oeste

PATAGONIA •

desert there can be extreme temperature differences between day and night. It is an area where pumas, wild boar, and ostriches can still be seen. There is hunting during the season. The area can be reached by tourist bus

cross the Río Collón Curá. The journey can be completed in 11 hours Bajo de Gualicho: 44 km north of San Antonio Oeste. This depression is 73 m below sea-level. Some salt mining takes place here. As it is in the

SIERRA GRANDE

Sierra Grande Population: 12 000 Postal code: 8532 @ area code: (02934) Altitude: sea level Distances From Puerto Madryn: 205 km north on RN 3 • From Viedma: 296km south-west on RN 3 •

S

ierra Grande is a mining town in the Patagonian steppe some 30 km west of the Golfo San Matías. Before European settlement there was a settlement of indigenous people on the Arroyo Saladas. The town was mentioned first in 1890 when a post office and a telegraph post was established; this was 2 km north of the present site of the town and was called Colonia Coronel Silavert. To the west is a mountainous region suitable for hiking. The Hisparsa iron ore mines are 8 km west of town and guided tours are conducted to the “center of the earth”. There is a pelletization plant on the coast at Punta Colorada. Further north on the coast is a small beach resort at Playas Doradas with basic tourist facilities. Sierra Grande is the starting point for excursions to the Reserva Provincial Somoncura.

Also included here are the facilities in Balneario Playas Doradas, some 30 km east on the coast.

B Tourist information

•

Información Turística, Calle 10 near 9 @ 481666

D Camping Camping in Balneario Playas Doradas • Camping Stella Maris @ 481011

C Accommodation in Sierra Grande Hotels ** *

Sierra Grande, Calle 102–381 Los Pinos, Calle 102 near 115

AEFGJLPUV AELPV

Residenciales A A B B

La Terminal, Calle 102–240 FLPS La Posada, Calle 2 near 7 LP El Vikingo, Calle 102–103 near RN 3 EFL City Bell, Calle 4 L

Accommodation in Balneario Playas Doradas Hosterías **

La Posada de la Luna,

Sierra Grande

AEFGJLPSUV

488

@ @

481016 481287

$G $G

2 2

@ @ @

481250 481011 481774

$H $I $J

2 1 1

@

481011

$H

2

RÍO NEGRO E Eating out • •

Excursions • Further inland is the Reserva Provincial Meseta de Somoncura, but it is difficult to reach. It covers an area of 1 600 000 ha (4 million acres). This tableland is of volcanic origin with some peaks reaching 2000 m; it has a variety of rare animals and birds living in little valleys with small brooks; also many caves containing rock paintings and sites with petrified wood. On the meseta are many salt lakes into which the brooks carry their water. In the tourist season there are two to three excursions into this unknown area, lasting two days • A 800 ha (1976 acres) fauna reserve for migrating birds is located north of Balneario El Salado on the Golfo San Matías. It includes the coastal strip and the offshore islands of Islote Lobos, Isla La Pastora, and Isla de los Pájaros

Restaurant Tencha, Calle 102–2 Restaurant Las 40, Calle 2–376. Pizzería

I Post and telegraph •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Ave. Antártida Argentina

S Buses • • • •

La Puntual, RN 3 @ 481374 Don Otto, TUS/TUP, El Valle, Quebek and Transportadora Patagonica Las Grutas, Ave. San Martín 2 @ 481250 Andesmar, El Cóndor, Ortíz and T.A.C., Calle 102 @ 481096

U Motoring • •

Service station: A.C.A., RN 3 KM 1258 Gas station: Y.P.F Calle 2–8 with restaurant

s Excursions Tour operators • Servicio Turístico Sumuncura, Calle 22–427 @ (02934) 481099; e-mail: [email protected]

Valcheta

V

VALCHETA

alcheta is a small town located 113 km west on RN 23. Transportes Las Grutas runs one service daily to San Antonio Oeste and Viedma. B Residencial Anán, V. López near Moreno FL

It has some tourist facilities and is a stopover on the road to Bariloche.

E Eating out

C Accommodation

•

A Residencial Don Pedro, R. De Escalada FLP

Restaurant La Familia, Belgrano near San Martín

VIEDMA

Viedma Population: 41 000 Postal code: 8500 @ area code: (02920) Altitude: Sea level Distance from Buenos Aires: 966 km south on RN 3 489

Viedma

PATAGONIA

V

iedma, the capital of Río Negro Province, is situated on the Río Negro. Two bridges span the river, connecting Viedma with Carmen de Patagones in Buenos Aires Province. The first Spanish vessel to sail up the Río Negro was the Nuestra Señora del Carmen commanded by Basilio Villarino in 1779. On April 22, 1779 Don Francisco de Viedma founded the colony of Mercedes on the spot where Viedma is today. Several months later the town was moved to the opposite shore of the Río Negro because of frequent flooding. This newly founded town was named Fuerte del Carmen de Patagones. Nothing remains of the old Mercedes settlement as a violent flood in 1899 completely destroyed the site. The first settlers of Carmen de Patagones lived in the cuevas Maragatas on arrival from Spain. A sign in Calle Rivadavia points to this site. A monument on a hill behind the city commemorates the repulse of a Brazilian naval attack by the citizens in 1827. While Viedma (renamed in 1878 in honour of the Spanish

Key to map A B C D E H I $ T

Iglesia Gobernación Provincial (Government) Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica Argentina Hospital Dirección Municipal de Turismo Banco Río Negro Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 5 7 9 22 28

Hotel Austral Hostería Roma Hotel Peumayen Hotel Nijar Hostería Roca

4 Eating out

3 Restaurant La Balsa 10 Restaurant Los Tios 11 Restaurant Club Social

Viedma

nobleman) is a fairly modern city, the twin city of Carmen de Patagones has retained its colonial charm. The climate is mild and particularly good in autumn. Also included here is the seaside resort of El Cóndor, located 31 km south east of Viedma. This small resort has a casino, hotels, and some restaurants. Regular daily bus services run from the downtown area.

A Festivals

•

Kayacs del Río Regata: January. This annual kayak race between Neuquén and Viedma is broken into 11 legs over 15 days to cover the 1000 km

B Tourist information

•

•

Ministerio de Turismo de la Provincia de Río Negro, Gallardo 121 @ 422150 fax 421249 Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Ave. Costanera near Colón @ 427171

14 Restaurant Munich 26 Restaurant Simbiosis

5 Entertainment 2

Cafetería El Náutico. Music 15 Casino Provincial 18 Cafetería La Recova

6 Airline offices

19 L.A.D.E. 21 Aerolíneas Argentinas and TAN 24 S.A.P.S.E.

9 Sights

17 Museo Gobernador Eugenio Tello 20 Museo Salesiano Cardenal Cagliero 25 Museo Tecnologico del Agua y del Suelo

0 Services 1 4 8 13

7 Tour operators and car rental 16 6

A1 car rental and Triton Turismo 12 Localiza

23 27

490

Ferry to Carmen del Patagones Centro Municipal de Cultura Laverap Ministerio de Turismo de la Provincia de Río Negro Mercado Artesanal Rionegrino Dirección de Bosques, Tierras y Fauna Foto Centro

RÍO NEGRO •

•

Dirección de Bosques, Tierras y Fauna, Belgrano 544 @ 422607 fax 425011

• •

D Camping •

•

Camping Municipal, RN 3, close to B Villarino bridge Camping Club Sol de Mayo, Avenida Costanera, near the railroad bridge

•

• •

E Eating out •

•

Restaurant Club Social, Saavedra 246, 1st floor B

Y

C O

O

N

B. M

A

YN

V I E D M APA R A G UA

Restaurant Don Néstor, Bulevar Ayacucho 1254 Restaurant Simbiosis, Mitre 573 Restaurant La Balsa, Ave. Villarino 484 Restaurant Los Tíos, Belgrano 265. Pizzería Restaurant Munich, Buenos Aires 169. Pizzería Cafetería El Náutico, Ave. Villarino 234. Music Cafetería La Recova, Belgrano 440. Music

.R

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AVE. F. DE VI ED

MA

J.J . VIE DM A

CARMEN DEL PATAGONES

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BUE

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COST ANER A AVE. VILLA RINO 5

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A 18

17

J.B. ALBERDI

C

BU EN OS AI

M.GUIDO

12

B. MITRE

11

GALLARDO

A . BARROS

14

SAAVEDRA

10

BELGRANO

25 DE MAYO

ALSINA

MORENO

To Bahía Blanca

LAS HERAS

8 SARMIENTO

21

19 20 22 RIVADAVIA

F. SÁNCHEZ

SAN MARTÍN

3 E

D 24

25 26

23 LAPRIDA

To Balneario El Cóndor

Plaza San Martín

CONGRESO DE TUCUMÁN

B

27

o T Puerto Madryn

J.A . ROCA

ALMTE. BROWN

L .N. ALEM

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28

PUEYRREDÓN

GÜEMES

3 To Bus Terminal

491

T

Viedma

PATAGONIA C Accommodation in Viedma

There are also several hotels in Carmen de Patagones; see Accommodation in Carmen de Patagones on page 125. Hotels Austral, Villarino 292 near 25 de Mayo ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 422619 @ 422615 *** Nijar, B. Mitre 490 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: [email protected] @ 422833 fax *** Peumayen, Buenos Aires 334 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 425243 @ 425222 @ 424291 • Comahue, Colón 385

****

Hosterías * *

Roca, Roca 347 Roma, Ave. 25 de Mayo 174

AELPV AELPV

Residenciales

B Río Mar, Ave. Rivadavia near Santa Rosa L • Luis Eduardo, Sarmiento 366

$E/F

2

$F

2

$F

2

@ @

431241 424510

$G $H

2 2

@ @

424188 420669

$H

2

@ @

497046 497070

$G

2

Accommodation in Balneario El Cóndor Hotels ** *

Casino El Faro, Calle 2 near Ave. Costanera AEFGJLPUV Río de los Sauces, Ave. Costanera AELPV

•

Eating out in Balneario El Cóndor • Restaurant El Cóndor, Calle 2 • Restaurant El Rincón, Calle 71 • Restaurant La Pulpería, Calle 69

L Financial

•

n Entertainment • • • •

Casino Provincial, Belgrano 350 Centro Municipal de Cultura (Municipal Cultural Center), Avenida Villarino Disco Black, Ave. Caseros 1750 Disco Morocco, corner of Avenida Caseros 1689 and Mexico

Banco Río Negro, Ave. 25 de Mayo 99 @ 424130

M Services and facilities

• •

Photographic supplies: Foto Centro, 25 de Mayo 793 Laundromat: Laverap, Gallardo 282

U Motoring Service stations • A.C.A., RN 3 KM 962 • Y.P.F., corner of Avenida Barros and Tucumán

I Post and telegraph •

Telephones: Telefónica Argentina, Mitre 531

Post office: Correo Argentino, Rivadavia 151

R Air services from Viedma

Gobernador Castello airport is 2 km from the town center. • Aerolíneas Argentinas, Yrigoyen 211 @ 424536 ° Buenos Aires (2 hrs) via Bahía Blanca (1 hour); 5 weekly • TAN, H. Yrigoyen 211 @ 422018 • L.A.D.E., Saavedra 403 @ 424420 fax; e-mail: [email protected]. For flight itineraries see the L.A.D.E. section in Air services from Buenos Aires City on page 66 • S.A.P.S.E. (Servicios Aéreos Patagonicos S.E.), Ave. San Martín 57 @ 425057 ° Briloche via San Antonio Oeste and General Roca; 3 weekly ° Bariloche via General Roca and Ingeniero Jacobacci; 2 weekly ° Bariloche via San Antonio Oeste; 1 weekly Viedma

492

RÍO NEGRO S Buses from Viedma

The modern bus terminal is on M. Guido 1680 near Presidente Perón, off the southern access to RN 3. Bus companies • Ceferino, Schieroni 883 @ 424542 • C.O.D.A.O. • Don Otto @ 425952 • El Cóndor @ 423714 • El Valle @ 422748 • Empresa Benitez Hnos, San Martín 234 Carmen de Patagones • La Cipoleña @ 425322 • La Puntual @ 422748 • Mansilla @ 421385 • Transporte Las Grutas @ 425952 • Transportes Patagónicos @ 425952 • Via Bariloche @ 425500 Local and provincial bus services • Bariloche via Valcheta, Sierra Colorada, Los Menucos, Maquinchao, Ingeniero Jacobacci, Onelli, Comallo, and Pilcaniyeu; 1–2 daily • Cinco Saltos via San Antonio Oeste (2 hrs), Choele-Choel, Villa Regina, General Roca, and Cipolletti; 3–4 daily • La Lobería ($4.00) via Balneario El Cóndor (1 2 hour, $2.00) ; 2–4 daily in summer, in winter 1 daily to Balneario El Cóndor and 1 weekly to La Lobería • Río Colorado via General Conesa; 1–3 daily • Sierra Grande (31 2 hrs) via San Antonio Oeste (2 hrs)and Las Grutas; 2 daily Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Bahía Blanca $30.80 Bariloche $60.00 Buenos Aires $64.00 Comodoro Rivadavia $40.00 Córdoba La Plata Mar del Plata Neuquén $28.60 Puerto Madryn $29.70 Rawson Río Gallegos Rosario Santa Rosa Trelew $28.00

Services 4 daily 3–4 daily 6 daily 3 daily

4 weekly 4 weekly

Duration

Company La Puntual, TUS/TUP 14 hrs C.O.D.A.O., La Puntual, El Valle, 14 hrs La Puntual, Fredes Turismo 10 hrs Don Otto, Central Argentino, La Puntual, El Pingüino TUS/TUP Transporte Mansilla Transportadora Patagónica 10 hrs La Puntual, El Valle La Puntual La Puntual Don Otto Central Argentino T.I.C.S.A. 7 hrs Central Argentino

T Trains

Car rental • A1 , Namuncurá 78 @ 430129 • Localiza, cnr Buenos Aires and Colón @ 420799 ° Car hire for 4 persons: $70 per day, $0.45 per km plus IVA and insurance

F C General Roca station is 20 blocks from the city center on the southern side across the Río Negro (Barrio San Roque). Road access to the station is from Avenida Cardinal Cagliero.

493

Viedma

PATAGONIA # Water transport

s Excursions

There are regular ferry services on the Río Negro connecting Carmen de Patagones with Viedma, leaving from Parque Belgrano at the end of 25 de Mayo. • Catamarán Curru-Leuvu II @ 461742. River cruises in summer • Amancay @ 462068/461026

Tour operators • Triton Turismo, Namuncurá 78 @ 431131 fax Excursions • River cruises on the catamaran Curru Leuvu, from the pier under the railway bridge • Balneario El Cóndor: 30 km. This small seaside resort on the Atlantic coast is near the mouth of the Río Negro. There is camping, restaurants, and a small residencial. At low tide there is good fishing near the lighthouse. The lighthouse, “Los Pozones”, is one of the oldest in Patagonia and was built in 1883. It is a slim tower of 13 m and can be visited. Take an Empresa Ceferino bus from the Plaza • Balneario Lobería: 30km further south from Balneario El Cóndor. Camping and restaurants. Take a Ceferino bus from the Plaza. Both balnearios function only in summer. Nearby at Punta Bermeja is a 200 ha (495 acres) fauna reserve. Here you can observe seals, and migratory birds. There is a café and information kiosk • Caleta de los Loros, a small fishing village, is located 145 km south-west of Viedma on the Golfo San Matías but difficult to reach. It is the nesting place of pink flamencos and black-necked swans; it has also a seal colony. It has a beach with fine sand and the perfect place for scuba diving. No facilities

Y Shopping •

Mercado Artesanal Rionegrino, Buenos Aires 101 on Plaza Alsina

p Sightseeing •

•

•

Museo Gobernador Eugenio Tello (Governor Eugenio Tello Museum), San Martín 263. Anthropological collection and historical memorabilia. Interesting section on the Araucanian culture Museo Salesiano Cardenal Cagliero (Cardinal Caglieri Salesian Museum), Rivadavia 34. On exhibit are memorabilia and photographs covering the missionary work of the Salesian Brothers and in particular of Cardinal Caglieri Museo Tecnólogico del Agua y del Suelo (Technological Water and soil Museum), Avenida Rivadavia near Colón. Open Mon–Fri This museum gives an overview of the geological development of the valley and also the changes made along the Río Negro since the founding of the first Jesuit missions in the eighteenth century

Villa Regina Postal code: 8336 @ area code: (02941) Distances • To Bariloche: 521 km • To Neuquén: 90 km

V

VILLA REGINA

illa Regina was founded in 1925. The name given to the new town was of a famous Italian singer Regina Pacini de Alvear who was the wife of the then

Villa Regina

494

RÍO NEGRO C Accommodation in Villa Regina Hotels **

Virginia, Mitre 599

Residenciales A A A A B

Auto Stop, RN 22 near Rivadavia City Hotel, Cipolletti 348 near Maipú El Turista, 9 de Julio 117 María Isabel, Santa Flora Este 176 Juan José, R. de Escalada 380

AEFGJLPUV

@

461544

$F

FLP LP LP LP LP

@ @ @ @ @

461933 462357 462103 461409 462091

$G/H 2 $H $H

2

2 2

President of Argentina. The town is the hub of a rich fruit and vegetable growing district.

B Tourist information •

•

Deportes y Turismo, 25 de Mayo 115 @ 461149 ext. 126

S Buses

E Eating out • • • • •

The bus terminal is on Las Heras near Ave. Mitre @ 462763. • El Valle • T.A. Chevallier ° Cipolletti (11 2 hrs) via Villa Regina, General Roca (3 4 hour), and Allen; 1 daily

Restaurant Círculo Italiano, Ave. Rivadavia 67 Restaurant Don Tito, Santa Flora Este 441. Parrilla Restaurant Romanella, 25 de Mayo 48. Pizzería Pizzería Macenco, Rivadavia 35 Rotisería Mil Gustos, Italia 146

U Motoring

•

I Post and telegraph •

Shell, 9 de Julio 279 @ 461265

Post office: Correo Argentino, Balcarce near Sarmiento

Stopovers

I

Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, Fray Luis Beltrán 50

STOPOVERS

n this section I have listed those towns which are not on the normal tourist trail but have some facilities. Chimpay Nearest town described: Choele-Choel 48 km east on RN 22 (page 470) * Motel Chimpay, RN 22 AELPV @ 494451

Allen Nearest town described: Neuquén 16 km east on RN 22 (page 412) * Hotel Alibizu, A. Del Valle 110 AELPV @ 450400 $F/G 2 * Hostería Hermes, Italia 355 AELPV @ 450525 $G 2

495

Stopovers

CHUBUT CATAGONIA P Chubut HUBUT

Plate 9 498 499 500 500 501 503 507 508 508 509 509 510 513 510 517 517 518 519 519 521 522 526 527 529 531 531 532 533

Map of Chubut Province Alto Río Senguerr BCJKRSesv Camarones CDESUsv Map Cholila BCDSUWbes Comodoro Rivadavia ABCDEnJKLPRSUVXYafiop Map qfs Corcovado CS Dolavon AESr El Hoyo de Epuyén BCDEJKUWefhs El Maitén CST Epuyén CES Esquel BCDEnJKILMSPRUT#XYace Map pqs Map of city center Gaiman ABCEJKISpQRs Map Gobernador Costa CDERS Los Altares CSUWst Parque Nacional Los Alerces Abcds#aes Parque Nacional Lago Puelo CDES Puerto Madryn ABCDEnJKLMRSUVWXYaffg o Map pqsv Map of city center Puerto Pirámide CDESUafefsv Punta Tombo v Rawson ABCEnJKLSUWfopqrs Map Río Mayo BCDEJKLRSUpbesv

496

CHUBUT 535 Sarmiento 536 Map 537 Trelew 538 Map 541 Trevelín 542 Map

CESUXpase ABCEnJKLPRSUVWXYapqs BCDEJKSUWYbeps

hubut at 225 000 square km (86 570 square miles) and with a population of 380 000 inhabitants is the largest Patagonian province. The geographical features differ from one region to another: in the east the Atlantic coastline, in the center the Patagonian meseta or plateau, and in the west the Andes. The fringe of the Andean cordillera consists of wooded mountains, lakes, and year-round rivers, and has a stimulating climate and many natural attractions for the tourist. Esquel, near Lago Futalaufquen, is the gateway to the Parque Nacional Los Alerces, which, with the Parque Nacional Lago Puelo is the major attraction of the Andean region. Near Esquel is also the ski resort of La Hoya. The Patagonian meseta alternates with river basins, valleys, and glens. Here the soil is sandy and vegetation is sparse. Despite the dryness of the Patagonian tableland, the Río Chubut basin has been transformed into a valuable agricultural region by the water stored in Dique Florentino Ameghino. This dam, 129 km from Trelew, supplies water for irrigation and generates hydro-electricity. Another important hydro-electric scheme is the Futaleufú power station near Esquel.

C

This province was, in the main, opened up by Welsh colonists who arrived from 1865 onwards. The towns with populations of largely Welsh descent are Puerto Madryn, Dolavon, Gaiman, and Trelew. The major cities are Puerto Madryn, Trelew, and Rawson, all on the coast and founded by Welsh colonists, and Comodoro Rivadavia in the far south. Rawson, the provincial capital, 1455 km south from Buenos Aires, is a quiet unassuming town of little interest to the tourist. Trelew is a commercial center. Puerto Madryn is the gateway to the Península Valdés, and Comodoro Rivadavia is the center of petrol production. The road system covers approximately 7000 km, 2100 km of which is sealed. On the Atlantic Ocean are long stretches of beaches where there are breeding grounds for sea-lions,

seals, and penguins. The Península Valdés is especially abundant in marine life, and from August to March is visited by whales. The interior is sparsely populated by sheep farmers. Of the rivers only the Río Chubut reaches the sea; most others end up in inland lakes such as Lago Musters, Lago Colhué Huapi, or Gran Laguna Salada. There is good fishing in Lago Musters and Lago Colhué Huapi. Of economic importance are the oil and gas deposits in the south. A well-established fishing industry, with crab and shrimp the main catch, supplies canning factories located in Rawson and Comodoro Rivadavia. The mineral wealth is considerable. Uranium is mined near Cerro Santa Ana with a concentrating plant at El Chalet, and there

497

Chubut

PATAGONIA •

are also deposits of copper, manganese, gold, silver, and iron ore. Chubut Province has a number of outstanding nature reserves, provincial reserves, and national parks. About half of the nature reserve are on Península Valdés and all of them are usually visited on a guided tour from Puerto Madryn; but they can also be visited from Trelew.

•

•

National parks • •

Provincial reserves

•

Parque Nacional Los Alerces. See page 519 and Excursions from Esquel on page 516 Parque Nacional Lago Puelo. See page 521

•

Nature reserves •

•

•

Reserva Natural Punta Loma. Located 15 km east of Puerto Madryn Reserva Natural Punta Tombo. Located 110 km south of Rawson on RP 1. Also accessed from Trelew Reserva Natural Cabo Dos Bahías. Located 30 km south-east of Camarones

Reserva Natural Península Valdés, Reserva Natural Caleta Valdés, Reserva Natural Punta Delgada, and Reserva Natural Punta Norte, all of them located on Península Valdés. This is the largest area set aside for the protection of wildlife. See Excursions from Puerto Madryn on page 529 Reserva Natural Isla de Los Pájaros. Island located just across from the isthmus connecting the Península Valdés with the mainland. See Excursions from Puerto Madryn on page 529 Reserva Natural Punta Pirámide. On Península Valdés; best access from Puerto Madryn

Parque Nant y Fall. See Excursions from Trevelín on page 543 Reserva Geologica Bosque Petrificado Sarmiento. Located 35 km south of Sarmiento. Best accessed from Sarmiento or Comodoro Rivadavia

Major places of interest Worth a visit & Península Valdés & Parque Nacional Los Alerces Worth a detour

& Parque Nacional Lago Puelo & Esquel & Puerto Madryn Of interest

& Puerto Pirámide & Camarones & Comodoro Rivadavia

ALTO RÍO SENGUERR

Alto Río Senguerr Population: 1500 Postal code: 9033 @ area code: (02945) • From Comodoro Rivadavia: 356 km west on RN 26 then RN 20, RN 22, and RN 40 • From Río Mayo: 97 km north-west on RN 40

Alto Río Senguerr

498

CHUBUT

A

lto Río Senguerr is located on the Río Senguerr in the pre-cordillera. The wildlife in the area includes deer, puma, and mountain cat. It is the gateway to Lago Fontana and Lago La Plata with tremendous trout-fishing opportunities. The lakes are surrounded by forests and there are many camping possibilities for the outdoor enthusiast. To reach these destinations you need your own 4WD transport or go with a tour operator.

B Tourist information •

° °

Dirección de Bosques y Parques, @ 497035

S Buses

C Accommodation

•

•

Hotel Bety Jay, San Martín @ 497022 AEFPV • Hotel La Tradición, Ameghino AEFPV @ 497052 Accommodation on Lago La Plata • Hostería Huente-Co, on the south side of Río Unión 87 km from town Accommodation on Lago Fontana • Hostería El Ciervo Rojo, on the north shore of the lake 53 km west of town. AEF. Hunting for deer, fishing

•

Post office: Encotesa, Avenida Fontana Telephone: Centro de Llamadas La Unica

R Air services •

Empresa Giobbi and E.T.A.P. run buses to Comodoro Rivadavia on Tues and Fri and to Esquel on Mon and Thurs. They serve also on the same day Gobernador Costa and Río Mayo

s Excursions

•

I Post and telegraph •

Comodoro Rivadavia (2 hrs) Río Mayo (1 2 hr)

Lago Fontana and Lago La Plata: 51 km west on RP 21. For this fishing and camping trip you need your own transport, preferably a four-wheel drive. The main attraction is the trout fishing and the large numbers of deer. The river floods in springtime and the road is usually impassable in several places. The best time to visit is from December to March. Take warm clothes as the temperature drops considerably at night

L.A.D.E., Cap. García @ 497010

CAMARONES

Camarones Population: 900 Postal code: 9111 @ area code: (0297) Distances • From Trelew: 254 km south on RN 3 then RP 30 • From Comodoro Rivadavia: 277 km north-east on RN 3 then RP 30

C

amarones is located on the Bahía de Camarones. The turn-off from RN 3 is 16 km before Garayalde, near the A.C.A. service station. The area around Camarones produces a particularly fine variety of merino wool. The highest elevation is Cerro Dos Bahías at 182 m. The major attraction is the Reserva Natural Cabo Dos Bahías located a further 35 km south and reached by

a dirt road; it is open only during the tourist season. On Isla Arce there is a sea-lion nursery; bring binoculars.

499

Camarones

PATAGONIA D Camping

To Comodoro Rivadavia and Rawson

CAMARONES

•

30 CALLE 20

Municipal camping ground, near the beach

E Eating out

CALLE 18

•

MITRE

•

MORENO

•

Restaurant El Gauchito

S Buses

To Pingüinera and Lobería

1

U Motoring

25 DE MAYO

RP 30 from the turn-off near Garayalde is unsealed until the approach to Camarones.

9 DE JULIO

s Excursions

•

URQUIZA

ROCA ESTRADA

1

To Cabo Raso

SAN MARTÍN

CALLE 9

BELGRANO

SARMIENTO

CALLE 11

Don Otto and TUS run 2 services each week to Puerto Madryn and Trelew ($9.00; 31 2 hrs) Empresa Ñandú: Mon–Fri to and from Trelew

Bahía Camarones

C Accommodation

A Residencial Bahía del Ensueño, 9 de Julio near Belgrano LP $H 2 A Residencial Kau-i-Keuken, Sarmiento near Roca EFLPS $H 2 A Residencial Mar Azul, 25 de Mayo near Urquiza ELP $H 2

Reserva Natural Cabo Dos Bahías. Located 35 km south-west. In this 1200 ha (2965 acre) nature reserve a considerable number of species typical of the Patagonian flora and fauna are represented. The major attraction is a large penguin colony and a nearby sea-lion colony. Passenger buses run from Trelew but return the same day, which does not give enough time to visit all the wildlife areas. A taxi from Camarones is expensive. It is best to use a tour operator in Trelew or Puerto Madryn; see Excursions from Trelew on page 539 and fromPuerto Madryn on page 529

CHOLILA

Cholila Population: 900 Postal code: 9217 @ area code: (02945) Distance from Esquel: 118 km north on RP 71

C

holila is located near Lago Cholila a few kilometers from the northern entrance to Parque Nacional Los Alerces. Cholila developed when several homesteads combined to form the town at the junction of RP 71 with a connecting road to Leleque on RN 40. There is no real central focal point. This is an area Cholila

500

CHUBUT of small rivers coming down from the high sierra and running through green pasture land. A splendid hike can be made up to Lago Cholila and beyond to Cerro Tres Picos; a mountain guide is recommended. The mountain streams and lakes abound with trout and other salmonoids; it is a favorite destination for anglers.

B Tourist information •

Alerces. Open only in season. Cabins available

Información Turística, Municipalidad @ 498040

S Buses

C Accommodation

Transportes Daniel Zabala runs daily services to Esquel and El Bolsón in the vacation season through Parque Nacional Los Alerces ($6.60; 3 hrs); Empresa Patagonia Verde runs services Tues and Thurs between Esquel and El Bolsón via Cholila; T.A. Mercedes runs services to Esquel and Bariloche.

Hostería Ruca Aney AELPV Accommodation on Lago Pellegrini de Los Mosquitos ** H o s t e r í a E l T r é b o l A E F G J L P U V @ 498055 fax; organizes fishing trips; horse-riding Accommodation on Lago Cholila * Hostería Lago Cholila, RP 71 KM 15 AELPV @ 498042 Accommodation on Lago Rivadavia * Hostería La Rinconada, 15 km south on RP 71 AELPV @ 498086 Accommodation in Villa Lago Rivadavia • Cabañas Carrileufú, 14 km south on RP 71 @ 492739 *

U Motoring

•

s Excursions

•

D Camping •

Service station: A.C.A., at the crossroads. Restaurant

Autocamping La Ponderosa, RN 71, on Río Carrileufú, 14 km south of Cholila just outside the northern entrance into Parque Nacional Los

Northern sector of Parque Nacional Los Alerces: Includes Lago Rivadavia (14 km from Cholila) and Lago Cholila (13km). You can make the 61 km trip through the park on foot in sections using public transport, staying at hotels or camping spots en route: Camping Lago Verde, Camping Bahía Rosales, Motel Pucón Pai, Hostería Quime Quipan, or Camping Playa Cumehue

COMODORO RIVADAVIA

Comodoro Rivadavia Population: 130 000 Postal code: 9000 @ area code: (0297) Distances • From Rawson: 400 km south on RN 3 • From Río Gallegos: 945 km north on RN 3 • From Coihaique in Chile: 450 km east on RN 26, then RP 22 and RP 20, then back onto RN 26

C

omodoro Rivadavia (also known simply as “Comodoro”), the largest and most prosperous town in Chubut, is situated in the southern part of the province on the Golfo San Jorge. The best views of the metropolis are from Cerro Chenque, which rises almost from the town center.

501

Comodoro Rivadavia

PATAGONIA resort located about 12 km south of Comodoro Rivadavia on a 4 km long bay. It is enclosed at the northern end by Cerro Punta Piedras and at the southern end by the rocky promontory of Cerro Punta del Marqués, where there is a seal colony. The sandy beach is 300 m wide. Rada Tilly was named in 1789 by the Malaspina expedition, a Spanish foray into Patagonia, in honor of the Marqués Everardo de Casa Tilly who fought the Portuguese in 1776 over the possession of the La Plata area. Rada Tilly is the home of Comodoro Rivadavia’s affluent. Expreso Rada Tilly runs 12 services daily to Comodoro Rivadavia.

The town was officially founded in 1901 by Francisco Pietrobelli. From the very beginning there were severe water shortages. In 1907 while drilling for water, oil was discovered and oil-fields now extend west far beyond Comodoro Rivadavia. There are two industrial parks in the town, with most enterprises geared towards the oil industry. A pipeline carries gas north to Buenos Aires. The fishing port is in Caleta Córdoba, 13 km north of Comodoro, and a fishing industry based on shrimp and calamari is increasing. The mean temperatures are 20°C (65°F) in January and 4°C (40°F) in July. Humidity is 65% in July. Comodoro Rivadavia is the hub of southern Chubut Province and the northern part of Santa Cruz Province with bus services to Chile and to the Chilean border; tour operators organize tours to nature reserves in the Sarmiento region.

A Festivals

• • •

Foundation day of Comodoro Rivadavia: February 23 Foundation day of Chubut: July 28 Petroleum day: December 13

B Tourist information

•

Balneario Rada Tilly

Dirección de Turismo, Avenida Rivadavia near Pellegrini @ 462376

Balneario Rada Tilly (commonly known as “Rada Tilly” ) a beach

Key to map A C D E I P $ T

Catedral San Juan Bosco Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica Argentina Dirección de Turismo A.C.A. Banco de la Provincia Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 3 7 8 9 18 24 26 28 29 32 33

Hotel Azul Residencial Comodoro Hotel Colón Hotel Español Residencial Derby Hotel Comercio Residencial Chubut Hotel Gran Comodoro Hotel Austral Residencial Sevilla Residencial Diana Residencial Belgrano

Comodoro Rivadavia

34 Residencial Cari-hue 35 Residencial del Sur 37 Residencial Atlántico

4 Eating out 5 6 10 11 13 15 16 22

Restaurant Caviar Cafetería Crazy’s Pizzería El Nazareno Restaurant Bom Bife Pizzería Giulietta Cafetería La Barra Pizzería Romanella Restaurant Punta Costanera 36 Restaurant La Tranquera 38 Restaurant La Minuta

5 Entertainment 2

Casino de Comodoro Rivadavia

502

6 Airline offices

4 Kaikén Líneas Aéreas 19 Austral Líneas Aereas 25 L.A.D.E.

7 Tour operators and car rental 12 17 27 30 31

Solytur Agencia de Viajes Atlas Localiza Avis Aonik’ Enk

9 Sights

23 Museo Regional Patagonico Prof. Antonio Garcés

0 Services

14 Chilean consulate 20 Cambio Ceferino 21 Banco de la Nación

CHUBUT COMODORO RIVADAVIA Parque Soberanía Nacional

AB

AS

O OL

22

To Rawson and Puerto Madryn

GÜEMES $ 21

C

D

3

28

MORENO

Golfo de San Jorge

30

9 DE JULIO 8 20 19 18

7

26 27

25

PELLEGRINI I

AV

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17

E IN

25 DE MAYO

GRECIA

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FRANCIA

36

CORTES

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31

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CHACABUCO

URQUIZA

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14

BELGRANO 1

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16

6

Plaza San Martín

CARDENAL CAGLIERO

ALVEAR P

L .N. ALEM

38

HERNANDARIAS

NAMUNCURA 37

3 To Caleta Olivia and Río Gallegos

D Camping

E Eating out

The normal dinner time is from 22:00 onwards. Restaurants • Bom Bife, España 832. Parilla • Caviar, Belgrano 935

Camping in Rada Tilly • Municipal, Fragata Argentina next to Hotel Rada Tilly; pebbly ground

503

Comodoro Rivadavia

PATAGONIA C Accommodation in Comodoro Rivadavia Hotels Austral, Rivadavia 190 Fax 4472444 *** Gran Comodoro, 9 de Julio 770 Fax 4473363 ** Azul, Sarmiento 724 * Colón, San Martín 341 * Comercio, Rivadavia 341 * Español, 9 de Julio 940 * Las Torres, Rivadavia near Asturias Fax 4479726 • Luque, Ave. Kennedy 3012 ***

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY ACDEFGJKLPTUVY ADEFGHJLP$TUV AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV ADEFPVY

Hosterías

• Rua Marina, M. Belgrano 738

Residenciales A A A A B B B B B

Atlántico, Alem 30 Chubut, Belgrano 738 Comodoro, España 919 Derby, San Martín 1046 Belgrano, Belgrano 546 Cari-hue, Belgrano 563 del Sur, Maipú 1083 Diana, Rawson 702 Viejo Sevilla, Ameghino 750

LP LP LP LP L L L L L

@

4472200

$D/E 2

@ @ @ @ @

4472300 4474628 fax 4462283 4472341 4460116

$E

2

@ @

4477324 4484930

@

4468777

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

4463145 4468777 4462582 4462562 4478439 4472946 4464119 4460474 4440000

$G

2

$F

2

Accommodation outside Comodoro Rivadavia **** **

Hotel Su Estrella, RN 3 south (near the airport) ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 4481004 Motel El Patagón, RN 3 south KM 1848 @ 4480394

Accommodation in Rada Tilly * *

Hostería El Balcón, Gutiérrez de La Concha 276 AELPV @ 4452333 Hotel Rada Tilly, Avenida Piedrabuena 2732 near Fragata Argentina AELPV @ 4451032

•

Posada Náutico Dos Piratas, Paseo Costanera. Seafood • La Minuta, Alem 35. Parilla • La Tranquera, H. Yrigoyen 1041. Parilla • Punta Costanera, San Martín 100 Pizzerías • El Nazareno, San Martín 802 • Giulietta, Belgrano 864 • Romanella, 25 de Mayo 866 Cafeterías • Austral, Rivadavia 190 • Crazy’s, B Mitre 943 • La Barra, San Martín 686 • Pleno Centro, 9 de Julio 275

Comodoro Rivadavia

Eating out in Rada Tilly • Restaurant La Gran Travesía, Avenida Armada Argentina • Restaurant La Vieja Parilla, Avenida Armada Argentina near Comodoro Rivadavia. Parilla • Cafetería El Volcán, Avenida Armada Argentina 1126

n Entertainment

•

Casino de Comodoro Rivadavia, San Martín 845 Entertainment in Rada Tilly • Disco Jonathan Club, Avenida Armada Argentina 1660 • Disco Naranja Club, Avenida Armada Argentina 808

504

CHUBUT R Air services from Comodoro Rivadavia

Aeropuerto General Mosconi is located off RN 3 south, halfway to Rada Tilly. The bus to airport from outside bus terminal is bus 6, marked “Palazzo”, and takes 45 minutes. An airport bus also leaves from the Austral office. Airlines • Austral Líneas Aéreas, 9 de Julio 870 @ 447798 • L.A.D.E., Avenida Rivadavia 360 @ 4476181. Web site: www.lade.com.ar ° Cutral-Có via José de San Martín, Esquel, El Maitén, El Bolsón, Bariloche, Chapelco, and Zapala; 1 weekly • Kaikén Líneas Aéreas, Sarmiento 733 @ 4473786 • TAN General La Favorita near San Martín @ 4477268 • Southern Winds, Pellegrini 865 @ 4471111 Services • • • •

Destination Bahía Blanca Buenos Aires Río Gallegos Río Grande

Services 1 daily 3 daily 1 daily 1 daily

Duration 11 2hrs 2hrs 11 4hrs 21 4hrs

I Post and telegraph • •

Car rental • Apolo Rent a Car, 9 de Julio 880, Oficina 6 @ 4475012 • Avis, 9 de Julio 687 @ 476382 • Lider, Ave. Rivadavia 252 @ 4461400 • Localiza 9 de Julio 770 1 4460334. Fiat Spazio $100.00 per day plus tax; $0.40 per km, 200 km free

Post office: Correo Argentino, Avenida San Martín 180 Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, Urquiza 605

L Financial • •

Banco de la Provincia, San Martín 833 Banco de la Nación, San Martín 102. ATM

P Visas, passports •

Chilean consulate, Rivadavia 671 @ 462414

Airline AU AU AU AU

Y Shopping

Comodoro Rivadavia would be the last cheap shopping town on your way south, as prices tend to rise steeply the further south you go. Petrol is cheaper.

Avenida

a Sport

U Motoring

•

The inland road to Sarmiento and Río Mayo, RN 26, RP 20, and RP 22, is sealed as far as Sarmiento, and partially sealed to Río Mayo. The coastal road north, RN 3, is surfaced all the way to Buenos Aires. The coastal road south, RN 3, follows the seashore until Caleta Olivia. After Caleta the road veers inland and runs through mostly dry, flat, and very monotonous Patagonian landscape. The well-surfaced road is a straight line disappearing on the horizon. • Touring information: A.C.A., Alvear near Dorrego @ 4464036 • Service station: Y.P.F., RN 3 northern access

•

•

•

505

Flying: Aero Club Rivadavia, corner of RN 3 south and Belgrano 778. The club has six airplanes which can be hired for tourist flights over Patagonia Golf: Santa Lucía Golf Club, Barrio General Mosconi, N Avellaneda, 3 km from town @ 4421330. 9 holes, also has tennis courts Scuba diving: At Punta Marquez in Balneario Rada Tilly, a beach resort just out of Comodoro Rivadavia. Initial tuition takes about 3 hrs Water-skiing: Club Náutico y Pesca Cmte. Espora, Avenida Costanera 1 462581

Comodoro Rivadavia

PATAGONIA S Buses from Comodoro Rivadavia

The bus terminal is in 9 de Julio 845 @ 4467305. Bus companies • A7 E.T.A.P./Giobbi, @ 4474841 ° Esquel (15 hrs) via Sarmiento, and La Laurita (101 4 hrs); Fri 13:00. Return Sun 21:00 ° Esquel via Río Mayo, Alto Río Senguerr (51 4 hrs), José de San Martín (71 4 hrs) Esquel; Mon and Thurs 05:00 (winter) Tues and Fri 24:00 (summer) • A65 El Pingüino @ 4479104 • A81 Andesmar @ 4468894 • A105 Empresa Ortiz, @ 4465723. Buses to Tinogasta, in Catamarca Province • A129 Expreso Rada Tilly ° Rada Tilly (1 2 hour, $1.00); 21 daily. Reduced services weekends 06:50–00:05 • A155 La Estrella ° Puerto Madryn via Rawson and Trelew; 1 daily 13:30. Return 07:35 • A163 Cooperativa La Unión @ 4462822. Taxis to Caleta Olivia • A195 Quebek @ 4479645 • A208 Cooperativa Sportman @ 4442988 ° Perito Moreno via Caleta Olivia, Pico Truncado, and Las Heras ° Puerto Deseado via Caleta Olivia • A211 T.A.C. @ 4463376/4443376 • A243 Empresa Robledo @ 4468187; 2 weekly to Catamarca ($122.00) and Fiambalá, in Catamarca Province • A251 TUS @ 4468493 • A302 Don Otto, @ 4463256/4464118 ° Camarones; 1 weekly ° Rawson via Trelew; 6 weekly • A303 La Puntual @ 4469176 • Trevisan ° Sarmiento (2 hrs; $8.40) 3 daily 08:00-19:15; 21 2 hrs. Return: 08:00–19:00 Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Bahía Blanca $47.00 Bariloche $68.00 Buenos Aires $82.00 Caleta Olivia $5.00 Córdoba Coyhaiue (Chile) $40.00 El Bolsón Esquel $38.00 Gobernador Costa Los Antiguos $20.00 Mar del Plata Mendoza Neuquén $65.00 Perito Moreno Pico Truncado Puerto Deseado $19.00 Puerto Madryn $29.00 Rawson $28.60 Río Gallegos $49.00

Comodoro Rivadavia

Services 4 daily 1 daily 3 daily 12 daily

Duration 15 hrs 14 hrs 24 hrs 1 hour

2 weekly 1 daily 1–2 daily 2 weekly 2 daily 2 weekly 4 weekly 3 weekly 2 daily 3 daily 2 daily 3 daily 1 daily 2 daily

8 hrs 6 hrs 20 hrs 29 hrs 15 hrs 4 hrs 6 hrs 5 hrs 11 hrs

506

Company A65, A211, A302, A303 A163, A211, A302 A65, A211, A302, A303 A81, A163, A251 A251, A211 A7 A163, A211, A302 A7, A163, A211, A302 A302 A163 A211 A81 A81, A211, A302 A163 A208 A163, A208 A81, A251, A302, A303 A302, A303 A65, A105, A195, A211, A302

CHUBUT Buses from Comodoro Rivadavia — continued • • • • •

Río Mayo $16.50 San Antonio Oeste Santa Rosa Trelew $32.00 Viedma $40.00

2 weekly

A7 A251 A81, A211, A251 53 4 hrs A65, A81, A211, A251, A302 10 hrs A65, A302, A303

3 daily 3 daily

p Sightseeing

Turismo runs a one-day day tour for $55.00 each, minimum five persons • Bosque Petrificado José Ormachea (José Ormachea Petrified Forest): 145 km west. Take the Trevisan bus to Sarmiento. See Excursions from Sarmiento on page 535 • Bosque Petrificado Victor Szlapelis (Victor Szlapelis Petrified Forest): 172 km west, near Río Senguerr. Best reached via Sarmiento. Szapelis is 60 km south of Sarmiento on a gravel road • Tour operators in Buenos Aires organize 11 day/10 night tours starting in Comodoro Rivadavia and finishing in Río Gallegos. These tours include a visit to Lago Buenos Aires and the border town of Los Antiguos going south through Parque Nacional Francisco Perito Moreno near Lago Pueyrredón; you visit the rock paintings in the Cueva de Las Manos near Bajo Caracoles and on to El Chaltén and the glaciers around Lago Argentino. Frequent stays in estancias add a rustic note to these trips. Cost from $1650.00 in shared accommodation starting in Buenos Aires. See Tour operators in Buenos Aires on page 76. Excursions from Rada Tilly • Punta Marqués: Located on the far southern side of the bay where there is a lobería or seal colony. A road runs to the top of the promontory and you can descend on foot some distance towards the seals

•

Museo Regional Patagonico Prof. Antonio Garcés (Prof. Antonio Garcés Patagonian Regional Museum), Rivadavia 1100 2nd floor; formerly the Hotel de Turismo building. Regional archeology and history. Open daily 09:00–12:00 and 15:00–19:00 • Cerro Chenque: stroll up for panoramic views over the town, and return via Parque Saavedra, which is like a green oasis Sightseeing in Rada Tilly • Museo Regional de Rada Tilly (Rada Tilly Regional Museum), Combate Naval de Martín García 176. On exhibit are samples of local flora and fauna and archeological pieces and history of the region

s Excursions Tour operators • Aonik’ Enk, Rawson 1190 @ 4466768 fax • Agencia Ceferino, 9 de Julio 880 @ 4473805. Also money exchange • Atlas, Rivadavia 439 @ 4476345 • Solytur, Rivadavia 827 @ 4421489 Excursions • Balneario Rada Tilly: A summer beach resort 12 km south. There are frequent buses, departing from the terminal • Camarones: 277 km north. At the Cabo Dos Bahías nature reserve you can see penguins and sea lions. See Camarones on page 499. Puelche

CORCOVADO

Corcovado Postal code: 9201 @ area code: (02945) Distance from Esquel: 96 km south on RP 17

507

Corcovado

PATAGONIA

C

orcovado is a border town located at the junction of RP 17 and RP 44 in the Río Huemul valley. The border at Paso Carrenleufú is 20 km west. From the border to Palena in Chile is a further 17 km. There are no buses on the Chilean side from the border into Palena. Empresa CODAO runs services daily to and from Esquel via Trevelín. See Excursions from Esquel on page 516 and from Trevelín on page 543.

C Accommodation •

• •

Cabañas Alpinas La Colina, @ 494027. Sr. Héctor Diez also organizes fishing trips and guided tours

Cabañas Jorge Bubas Hospedaje Carmen Torres, @ 494077

DOLAVON

S

ome 19 km west of Gaiman on RN 25. Dolavón was founded in 1915 by some estancia owners. It was at first a stopover on the way from the coast to the cordillera. On July 28 is the celebration of Gwyl y Glaniad or festival of the first landing of the Welsh immigrants. In town are some Welsh chapels and an old flour mill. It is interesting to see a culture transplanted to these arid areas so different from the green pastures which their ancestors left in Wales. Línea 28 de Julio has

daily services to Gaiman and Trelew ($2.60).

E Eating out

• •

Parrilla Dolavon, J.A.Roca Comedor La Noria, Lamarque 55

EL HOYO DE EPUYÉN

El Hoyo de Epuyén Population: 600 Postal code: 8431 @ area code: (02944) Altitude: 200 m Distance from Esquel: 210 km north on RP 71 and RN 258 — the scenic route through Parque Nacional Los Alerces

E

l Hoyo de Epuyén is situated in the Río Epuyén valley in the pre-cordillera, halfway between Bariloche and Esquel. The name “Hoyo” (“Pit”) which the first settlers gave to the spot is fitting as it resembles a wide basin in the middle of the mountains. The climate favors berry fruits which are extensively cultivated and made into delicious jams by the locals. The many hanging bridges over the Río Epuyén are an interesting feature.

B Tourist information

C Accommodation

•

*

•

Oficina Municipal de Informes, RN 258 near Islas Malvinas @ 471504 Dirección de Bosques @ 471870

El Hoyo de Epuyén

*

508

Hotel La Carreta, RN 258 @ 471519 AELPV Cabañas Peumayén ABELPV

CHUBUT U Motoring

Accommodation on the road to Las Cataratas * Cabañas La Catarata, 3 km from El Hoyo de Epuyén AELPV @ 471507. Also camping • Cabañas Bondel, @ 471531

•

s Excursions

•

D Camping Camping on Lago Epuyén • Puerto Patriada @ 492903

E Eating out • • •

Restaurant Shanti Pizzería La Paz, Cafetería Alhaeti, La Catarata. Disco

•

I Post and telegraph • •

Gas station RN 258 south

Post office: Correo Argentino, Islas Malvinas near RN 258 Telephone: Cooperativa Telefónica, Islas Malvinas near Las Almendras

•

La Catarata: This waterfall, which plunges 81 m, is just 3 km out of town. A steep path leads up through forests to where the falls start, giving impressive views over the cultivated valley below. The cascade forms a little pool which is a good spot for swimming. Nearby are the bungalows and camping ground. Around the waterfall is a 13 ha (32 acre) nature reserve Laguna del Plesiosauro: 15 km south on RN 258. It is hidden from the road by trees and shrubs. A good swimming spot Parque Nacional Lago Puelo. See Parque Nacional Lago Puelo on page 521

S Buses •

Bariloche: Empresa T.A. Mercedes

EL MAITÉN

El Maitén Postal code: 9210 @ area code: (02945) Distance from Esquel: 80 km north on RN 40

E

l Maitén is the starting point of the scenic railway trip to Esquel with “La Trochita”. From El Maitén there are colectivo buses to Lago Epuyén.

C Accommodation

E Eating out

•

A Residencial Accomazza, Avenida San Martín 1058 LP @ 495135 A Residencial La Vazconia, Rivadavia 751 FLP @ 495118 fax • Hospedaje Suyai, Avenida Belgrano 1010

• • •

Restaurant Patagonia Express, Darwin 953 Cafetería La Barra Pub, 28 de Julio near Antártida Argentina Cafetería El Refugio Andino, Avenida San Martín 1179 Cafetería El Vagón, at the railroad station

EPUYÉN

Epuyén Population: 350 Postal code: 9211 @ area code: (02945) Distance from Esquel: 150 km north on RP 71 and RN 258

509

Epuyén

PATAGONIA

E

puyén is a small village 5 km east of Lago Epuyén at the intersection of RN 258 and RP 70 leading to El Maitén. It has regular bus services south to Esquel and north to Bariloche.

C Accommodation

S Buses

•

Accommodation on Lago Epuyén * Hostería El Refugio del Lago, on the south side AELPQV @ 499050 fax

Empresa T.A. Mercedes has daily buses to Bariloche ($9.90) and Esquel

ESQUEL

Esquel Population: 25 000 Postal code: 9200 @ area code: (02945) Altitude: 540 m Distances Distance from Puerto Madryn: 671 km west • Distance from Bariloche: 291 km south on RN 258 then RN 40 •

E

squel was founded in 1904 by descendants of Welsh colonists from the coast. The modern town is flanked by high mountains. It is served by many road and air services, and has good facilities. In the nearby Cordón de Esquel, which has mountains over 2000 m, there is the major skiing resort of La Hoya, 15 km north-east of the Esquel. Esquel is also the gateway to the Parque Nacional Los Alerces with its many lakes, mountain trails, and ancient alerce trees, many of which are 500 years or older. The area is rewarding for hikers and all outdoor enthusiasts. Mountain climbers regularly scale Cerro Nahuel Pan at 2140 m located south of town.

I

SARMIENTO 18 14

22

16

13

25 26

21 23

19 15

12

17

AMEGHINO

10

SAN MARTÍN

RIVADAVIA

AVE. FONTANA D

It is noteworthy that all rivers from the Esquel area drain to the Pacific Ocean. The Cordón de Esquel, and not the main range of the Andes, is the watershed between the Pacific and the Atlantic. This unusual Andean formation gave rise to a border dispute with Chile, which was settled by an English umpire in favor of Argentina, as the area had in the main been settled by Welsh colonists who had moved up from the coast—the Rifleros Galeses or Welsh Rifles formed a major contingent within the Fontana expedition sent by the Argentine government to lay claim to the disputed area.

ESQUEL CENTRO

9 DE JULIO

ALVEAR

PELLEGRINI

24 20

25 DE MAYO 35 34

31 29 30

37

P

38

36

40

32 33 39

GENERAL ROCA $

E

43 42 41

44

BELGRANO 45

Esquel

510

CHUBUT C Accommodation in Esquel

The tourist office has addresses of private accommodation. Apart hotels *** ***

Esquel, Alberdi 612 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY La Casona de Olgbrun, Sarmiento 1137 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

Cabañas

Complejo Pucón Antú, Chacabuco 1800 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 453764 @ ** Rayen Hué, Avenida Miguens 40 ABCDEFGHJLPTUV @ @ • Trahuen Ché, Sarmiento 620

***

Hotels *** *** ** ** * * *

Sol del Sur, 9 de Julio 1086 Tehuelche, 9 de Julio 825 Esquel, San Martín 1044 Ski, San Martín 963 Huemul, Alvear 1015 Lihuen, San Martín 820 Maika, 25 de Mayo 507

ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AELPV AELPV AEFLPV

Hosterías

Angelina, Avenida Alvear 758 AEFGHJLPUV La Tour d’Argent, San Martín 1063 AEFGJLPSUV * Arrayanes, Antártida Argentina 767 AELPV * Huentru Niyeu, Chacabuco 606 AELPV * Los Tulipanes, Avenida Fontana 365 AELPSV • Cumbres Blancas, Ave. Ameghino 1683 Fax 455400; E-mail: [email protected]

** **

Residenciales

A Argentino, 25 de Mayo 862 • Hospedaje Beirut, 25 de Mayo 246 • El Cisne, Chacabuco 778

ELP

Private homes

• Sra. Juana Gingins, Rivadavia 1243 • Sra. María Pasquini, Belgrano 844

Accommodation on road to airport **

Hostería La Hoya, Ameghino 2296

AEFGJLPUV

454053 452185 fax 452768

$D/E 2 $E 5

@ @ @ @ @ @ @

452189 fax 452421 fax 452534 452254 450817 452589 452457

$E $E

2 2

@ @ @ @ @

452763 454612 451051 452576 452748

$G $F $G $G $G

2 2 2 2 2

@

455200

@ @ @

452237 452886 451989

@ @

452452 450991

$I $I

1 1

@

451109

$G

2

453638 fax

$E

4

Accommodation in Villa Ayelén ***

Cabañas Villa Azul, RN 259 1.5 km E-mail: [email protected]

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

La Hoya

@

The skiing slopes range from between 1300 and 1950 m, and can be reached using ski-lifts and T-bars. The depth of snow varies: at the base station at 1350 m it is 1.85 m and at altitude 2050 m the snow can have a depth of 3.6 m. The ski area is 150 ha (371 acres). For alpine skiing there is a 9 km run. In summer the area is a favorite walking region, with water

The skiing area of La Hoya is situated 13 km north of Esquel in the Cordón de Esquel at 1350 m. Skiing in La Hoya is possible from the end of June until the end of October. The best months are August and September. Ski runs are suitable for expert skiers to intermediate and beginners. 511

Esquel

PATAGONIA Key to maps C D E H I P $ T

Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica de Argentina Hospital Secretaría de Turismo y Media Ambiente A.C.A Banco de la Nación Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 2 5 7 8 9 15 16 18 23 24 25 28 31

Cabañas Complejo Pucón Antú Apart Hotel Esquel Hospedaje Sra. Juana Gingins Hostería Los Tulipanes Apart hotel La Casona de Olgbrun Hotel Huemul Hotel Sol del Sur Cabañas Trahuen Ché Hotel Esquel Hotel Maika Hostería La Tour d’Argent Residencial Argentino Hotel Tehuelche

38 Hotel Ski 44 Hotel Lihuen 45 Hospedaje Sra. María Pasquini 46 Hostería Angelina 50 Hostería Huentru Niyeu 52 Hostería Arrayanes

4 Eating out 4

6 19 20 21 22 27 29 30 34 36 37 40 41 43 47

Restaurant El Lomo del Abuelo Pizzería Don Pipo Cafetería La Barraca Restaurant de María Cafetería Vestry Cafetería El Jabalí Rojo Restaurant Cassis Cafetería Exedra Restaurant Don Chiquino Pizzería El Viejo Obelisco Restaurant El Galpón Cafetería Atelier Restaurant Ahla Wasahla Restaurant Tehuelche Restaurant Primo Piatto Ristorante Restaurant Rancho

•

tumbling down from the lofty heights, forming cascades and little brooks. There are panoramic views over Esquel.

53 Cafetería Casa Suiza

5 Entertainment 26 Casino 39 Disco Ver Club

6 Airline offices 12 Austral 14 L.A.D.E. 32 TAN

7 Tour operators and car rental 10 Esquel Tours 33 Trekways

9 Sights

48 Museo Indigenista

0 Services 3 11 13 17 35 42 49 51

F C General Roca station Club Andino Esquel Olgbrun Artesanías Fotocolor Stuttgart La Bolsa de Esqui Gemelo’s Sport Laverap Chilean consulate

Autocamping Municipal Esquel, RN 259, the eastern access road to the national park

E Eating out

B Tourist information

Restaurants • Ahla Wasahla, Avenida Ameghino Club Andino Esquel, Volta 649 924. Parilla @ 453248; has skiing information • & Cassis, Sarmiento 120 • Secretaría de Turismo y Media • Don Chiquino, 9 de Julio 970. Italian Ambiente, Avenida Alvear near cuisine Fontana @ 451064/452369 • El Galpón, Rivadavia 927. Parilla • Centro de Esqui La Hoya @ 451317 • El Lomo del Abuelo, Avenida Alvear • Asociación Argentina de Guías de 1360. Parilla Montaña (Argentine Mountain • de María, Rivadavia 1038. Parilla Guide Association) @ 450653; contact: • Primo Piatto Ristorante, Rivadavia Sr. Rodrigo Villa 873. Italian cuisine Tourist information in Río Pico • Rancho, Rivadavia 740. Parilla • Información Turística @ (02945) • Tehuelche, 9 de Julio 825. Interna492011 tional cuisine Pizzerías D Camping • Don Pipo, Fontana 649 There are many camping grounds lo• El Viejo Obelisco, Rivadavia 924 cated on the lakes and rivers in the • Fitzroy Pizza, Rivadavia 1050 Parque Nacional Los Alerces; see page 519. Camping permits and fishing Cafeterías permits must be obtained from the park • Atelier, 25 de Mayo block 501 near ranger. San Martín •

Esquel

512

CHUBUT To Bariloche and El Bolsón

259

To Comodoro Rivadavia

JUSTO

AVELLANEDA

O'HIGGINS

2

ALMAFUERTE

CHACABUCO

AMEGHINO

SAN MARTÍN

RIVADAVIA

9 DE JULIO

ALVEAR

R.S. PEÑA

ALSINA

ROGGERO

DON BOSCO

BRUN

T

URQUIZA

3

BROWN 11

VOLTA

ALBERDI 5 4

PELLEGRINI 8

A

AV

C

IO

AVE. FONTANA

LL

D

TE

.S

S 9

A

SARMIENTO

N I 27

25 DE MAYO 28

H

Refer Esquel Centro

GENERAL ROCA

45 46

an Pla M za ar tín

BELGRANO 48

S

47

B. MITRE 49

50

ro

yo

Es

qu

el

MORENO

N

Ar

DARWIN

MOLINARI 51 52

53

ESQUEL

ANTARTIDA ARGENTINA 259

To Trevelin, Lago Futalaufquen, Futaleufú (Chile)

• • •

•

Casa Suiza, Antártida Argentina 569. German spoken. Tearoom El Jabalí Rojo, Sarmiento 530 Esquel, San Martín 1043

• • •

513

Exedra, 25 de Mayo block 701 near San Martín La Barraca, Rivadavia 1080. Bar Maika, 25 de Mayo 507 Ski, San Martín 963

Esquel

PATAGONIA • •

•

Sol del Sur, 9 de Julio 1096 Vestry, Rivadavia 1065. Welsh teahouse

•

Eating out at La Hoya • Restaurant at the base • Confitería La Piedra at 1550 m • Refugio El Esquiador at 1900 m

# Water transport Launch services on the lakes Normally launches leave from Puerto Limanao on the western side of Lago Futalaufquen and go right up to Lago Verde through the channel linking the lakes. Regular launch services run only during the summer months (December–February) and after that only as required. The owners may be contacted at Motel Pucón Pai (on the eastern side of Lago Futalaufquen) if there are at least ten persons. In very dry seasons when the water level is low the launches leave from Motel Pucón Pai. See “Excursions” below, and Parque Nacional Los Alerces on page 519. The cruise departs at 10:00 and returns to Puerto Limanao approximately 19:00.

n Entertainment • •

Casino, Avenida Ameghino 1042 Disco Ver Club, General Roca 465

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Avenida Alvear 1192 Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Avenida San Martín 863

L Financial •

Banco de la Nación, Avenida Alvear near Roca. ATM

M Services and facilities • • • •

Laundromat: Laverap, Mitre 543 Photographic supplies: Fotocolor Stuttgart, 9 de Julio 1018 Sport equipment: Gemelo’s Sport, Rivadavia 860 Ski hire: La Bolsa de Esqui, 25 de Mayo 612

R Air services

The airport is 20km east of town, reached on a paved road. • Austral, Avenida Fontana 406 @ 453413; 4 weekly to Buenos Aires • Kaikén Líneas Aéreas • L.A.D.E., Alvear 1085 @ 452124; has services to outback destinations • TAN, Roca 689 @ 452427; services to Bariloche and Neuquén.

Y Shopping

Locally manufactured preserves, jellies and liqueurs are well known for their quality. & • Olgbrun Artesanías, San Martín 1137. Good souvenir shop

a Sport

•

• •

U Motoring Service stations • A.C.A., Ameghino near 25 de Mayo @ 452382 Car rental • Avis, airport @ 450220 fax

T Trains

Esquel is the southernmost point in the Argentine rail system. F C General Roca station is on the corner of Roggero and Urquiza.

Esquel

Buenos Aires: Change in Ingeniero Jacobacci Nahuel Pan: Departs 15:00 Mon or on demand. Last information received is that services have been suspended

514

Fishing: The fishing season runs from November to April. Permits can be obtained from the tourist office or from kiosks in the national park Hunting: The hunting season for red fox and wild boar runs from April to August Skiing: At La Hoya, 13 km from Esquel. Lift tickets cost $70.00 for a weekly ticket, or $10.00 for a day ticket; hire of ski equipment costs $50.00 per week. There are three chair lifts, and several T-bars and pomas. The Club Andino Esquel has a tourist office at the base. In winter there are regular ski buses from Esquel to the base of chair lifts. Hostería Pirren Chayá is now open; accommodation: $25.00 1

CHUBUT S Buses from Esquel

The bus terminal and main taxi rank is on the corner of Fontana and Alvear @ 452233. There are no direct buses to Buenos Aires—it is best to go via Bariloche. During winter Empresa Mercedes runs only three services a week to Bariloche. Bus companies • A7 E.T.A.P., @ 451110 • A39 Codao, Ave. Ameghino 1045 @ 452924/455222 ° Carrenleufú on the Chilean border near Palena ($7.70) via Trevelín ($1.50) and Corcovado; 1 daily ° La Balsa on the Chilean border near Futaleufú ($3.30; 2 hrs) via Trevelín ($1.50) ; 1 daily • A81 Andesmar • A87 Empresa Chubut @ 453012 ° Trelew via Tecka; Tues., Thurs, Fri, Sun 22:00, Wed 07:00 • A102 Mar y Valle @ 453712 • A234 T.A. Mercedes, @ 453012 • A236 Transportes Esquel, @ 453529 ° Lago Verde ($8.50) via Lago Futalaufquen ($2.50), P.N. Los Alerces ($4.50) and Puerto Limanao ($5.00); 3 daily in summer • A238 Transportes Jacobsen, @ 453528 ° Ingeniero Jacobacci ($10.00; 5 hrs) via El Maitén; Fri • A257 Daniel Zabala, @ 450143 ° Cholilla ($9.90; 3 hrs); 6 weekly ° El Bolsón via P.N. Los Alerces ($18.00); 2 daily • A302 Transporte Don Otto @ 453012 ° Comodoro Rivadavia; Tues and Sat 14:30 ° Trelew; Mon. 19:00 – Thurs. 09:00 • A344 Patagonia Trafic @ 453997 Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Bahía Blanca $63.80 Bariloche $28.00 Buenos Aires $95.00 Comodoro Rivadavia $38.00 El Bolsón $16.00 Epuyén Gobernador Costa Los Alerces $8.80 Mendoza $85.00 Neuquén $56.00 Puerto Madryn $39.00 Río Gallegos $81.00 Río Mayo $33.00 Trelew $35.00

Services 4 weekly 3 daily 4 weekly

Duration Company A302 5 hrs A39, A81, A234, A302 28 hrs A302

2-3 daily 3 daily

8 hrs A7, A302, 3 hrs A81, A234, A302 A302 A302 A234 25 hrs A81 12 hrs A81 8–10 hrs A87, A102, A302 A302 7 hrs A7 9 hrs A87, A302

5 weekly 1 daily 2 daily 2 weekly 2 daily

p Sightseeing •

Mon–Fri 09:00–12:00 and 18:00–21:00, Sat 19:00–21:00. Entrance free

Museo Indigenista (Aboriginal Museum), Belgrano 330. Items made by indigenous tribes, also a section about local flora and fauna. Open

515

Esquel

PATAGONIA s Excursions Tour Operators • Esquel Tours, Fontana 754 @ 452704/450513 fax. Organizes lake tours • Rincón Andino, Miguens 40 @ 452185 fax • Trekways, Gral. Roca 687 @ 451000 Excursions • Trevelín: 21 km west on RN 259. A charming still very Welsh community with many tearooms. There are regular buses to and from Esquel. See Trevelín on page 541 • Futalaufquen hydro-electric scheme: Situated on the Río Futalaufquen, the dam is 600 m long and 120 m high, creating a lake of 9200 ha (22 733 acre) which supplies electricity to the aluminum smelter in Puerto Madryn by means of two 330 kW power lines • Parque Nacional Los Alerces. Trips are organized by tour operators in Esquel; see the Tour operators and Water transport above. If you prefer to spend more time in the park there are several hotels, motels, and camping grounds; see Parque Nacional Los Alerces on page 519 • Nahuel Pan: The village of Nahuel Pan is a tourist destination and is reached in three hours by La Trochita train. In the summer season a regular train departs every Tuesday at 09:00 from Esquel. A special train ride can be organized for a minimum of 20 persons • Parque Nacional Lago Puelo: This is a 382 km return trip. Take RN 258 north passing Lago Futalaufquen and Lago Rivadavia. At the village of Lago Rivadavia you can stay at Cabañas Carrinleufú 300 m down from the road on the river. In the village, check at the signpost whether there are any vacancies. Five km further on is Cholila with Hostería El

Esquel

•

•

•

516

Trébol on Lago Pellegrini. From here you continue north, passing Lago Lezama. The road goes alternately over mesetas above 600 m, and through valleys which are only 250 m above sea-level. For this reason plants can be cultivated which normally grow only in warmer climates. The country around Epuyén is heavily forested; timber is the backbone of the local economy. You can take a day trip organized by tour operators in Esquel; see Tour operators above. Alternatively you can take local buses and make frequent stops, staying overnight in camping spots such as those on the shores of Lago Futalaufquen and Lago Verde Futaleufú in Chile: Take a bus to the Argentine border post, a few hundred meters after the new bridge across the Río Futaleufú. Two km before the bridge there is a steep road leading uphill on the left to a trailer park overlooking the valley and the snow-capped border mountains. Usually Chilean colectivos are waiting to pick up passengers to Futaleufú. On the Chilean side the river forms waterfalls and cascades. From Futaleufú you can continue on to Puerto Ramírez and visit Lago Yelcho. The return to Argentina may be made via Palena, Paso Carrenleufú and Corcovado. From Corcovado there are buses back to Esquel. This trip may take two to three days depending on transport connections in Chile. Codao runs 5 services weekly from Carrenleufú to Esquel via Trevelín. Lago Fontana and Lago La Plata: 385 km south. Take a Giobbi bus to Alto Río Senguerr. The attractions of the lakes include trout fishing and large numbers of deer. See Excursions from Alto Río Senguerr on page 499 Gobernador Costa. See page 518

CHUBUT

GAIMAN

Gaiman Population: 3300 Postal code: 9105 @ area code: (02965) Distance from Trelew: 16 km westwards on RN 25

G

aiman was founded in 1885 on the north bank of the Río Chubut and was the first Welsh municipality in the lower Chubut valley. Of all the Welsh towns in Chubut, Gaiman has best retained its Welsh character. The now disused railroad station on 28 de Julio 705 is a monumento nacional and serves as Museo Histórico Regional (Regional History Museum).

A Festivals •

C Accommodation

B Residencial Man Aros, M.D. Jones 342 LS @ 491292 $G 2 B Residencial Plas y Coed, H. Yrigoyen near M.D. Jones 123 L @ 491133 $F 2 • Sra. Drake, @ 491092 $I 1 • Hostería Gwesty Tywi, M. D. Jones 342; e-mail: gwestywi@infovia. com.ar @ 491292 fax • Hotel Unelem, Ave. E. Tello near 9 de Julio AFPV @ 491663 fax; e-mail: [email protected]

Eisteddfod (Welsh Festival of Arts): Early August

B Tourist information •

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Plaza J.A. Roca @ 491014

C

Municipalidad (townhall) Welsh Historical Museum

N . TE AL AV

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D AR

Restaurant Albatros, E. Tello 450 Cafetería Tavarn Las, E. Tello near M.D. Jones. Disco Welsh tearooms • Gaiman, H Yrigoyen 783 • Plas y Coed, Michael D Jones 123 • Ty Gwyn, 9 de Julio 149 • Ty Nain, H Yrigoyen 283

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To Esquel

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COMANDANTE ESPORA

BUCHARDO

RIVADAVIA

28 DE JULIO

C

AVE. EUGENIO TELLO

To Comodoro Rivadavia

AVE. IRIGOYEN

JUAN R. EVANS

9

M. O. JONES

I Post and telegraph

•

9 DE JULIO

Post office: Correo Argentino, J.C. Evans near H. Yrigoyen Telephone: Fono Fax, Tello 459

•

BELGRANO

S Buses

N

25 DE MAYO

SAN MARTÍN

LIBERTAD

MORENO

Bus companies • Línea 28 de Julio: 10 services daily to Trelew ($1.40; 3 4hour) and Dolavon • Don Otto runs services to Esquel, Comodoro Rivadavia • Mar y Valle runs services to Trelew, Rawson and Puerto Madryn

25 To Rawson and Trelew

SARMIENTO

GAIMAN

517

Gaiman

PATAGONIA p Sightseeing • • •

Excursions • Dique Florentino Ameghino 111 km west. The water is used for irrigation and power generation. The dam is fed mainly by the Río Chubut but also receives occasionally water from the Río Chico which begins near Sarmiento. Trout fishing, hiking • Dolavon a small town 19 km east steeped in Welsh tradition • La Angostura: 10 km from the center of Gaiman. Here the Río Chubut runs through a narrow valley leaving just enough space for a road and irrigation channel

Welsh Historical Museum, Sarmiento near 18 de Julio Bethel Chapel built in 1914, next to the old railroad station First house built in Gaiman in 1874, Avenida E. Tello near J.C. Evans

s Excursions Tour operators • Noria Tours, E. Tello 612 @ 491207; e-mail: [email protected]. Specializing in nature excursions but also organizes tours to Sierra Grande; pickup and return of passengers in Trelew and Puerto Madryn

GOBERNADOR COSTA

Gobernador Costa Postal code: 9223 @ area code: (02945) Distance from Esquel: 190 km south on RN 40

G

obernador Costa is located 8 km west of José de San Martín near the junction of RN 40 and RP 19. It is the gateway to Río Pico and the nearby Lagos Picos, five of them and Lago General Vintter. Lago General Vintter is shared with Chile, the Chilean portion is called Lago Palena.

C Accommodation

Río Pico and Lago General Vintter

•

Hostería Mi Refugio, Ave. J.A. Roca PV @ 491087 • Residencial Jar, EF @ 491012 • Posada El Abuelo @ 491094 Accommodation near Río Pico and Lago Vintter • Consorcio San Gabriel, Lago Pico Nr. 3, 20 km from Río Pico; $H per cabin. For Information: Sr. Franco González @ (02945) 492305 • Cabañas El Madrugón, Lago Vintter

Río Pico is located 80 km west of Gobernador Costa, reached on RN 40 and RP 19, a gravel road. It is surrounded by the high peaks of the border mountains to the south and west reaching 2108 m in Cerro Steffen. The region enjoys a high rainfall and there are numerous lakes fed by crystal clear mountain streams. It is a fisherman’s paradise and also for the keen mountain hiker. Empresa Jacobsen runs services from Esquel to Río Pico on Mon, Wed, Thurs and Sat. Lago General Vintter is located 119 km west of Gobernador Costa and 40 km west of Río Pico.

Gobernador Costa

D Camping Camping in or near Río Pico All camping areas away from town are only accessible on dirt roads; 4WD vehicles or by local tour guide are recommended. Superb trout fishing in all lakes. • Camping Municipal, capacity 20 tents; A • Lago Pico Nr. 1, 5 km west of town

518

CHUBUT • •

R Air services

Lago Pico Nr. 4, 25 km west of town Lago Pico Nr. 5, 40 km west of town

The airstrip is at José de San Martín with air services provided by L.A.D.E.

E Eating out

• Comedor Joe I • Comedor Terminal de Omnibus • Parrilla El Petiso Eating out in Río Pico • Restaurante El Pollo Dorado, Fontana @ (02945) 492015; also accommodation • Restaurant El Refugio, J.A. Roca • Restaurant Las Lengas, Mariano Moreno near Sarmiento

S Buses

Road transport between Esquel and Comodoro Rivadavia is provided by Don Otto, E.T.A.P., and Angel Giobbi; Don Otto also runs 5 services weekly to Trelew.

LOS ALTARES

Los Altares Population: 200 Postal code: 9207 Distances From Trelew: 291 km west on RN 25 • From Esquel: 324 km east on RN 40 then RN 25 •

L

ocated almost in the center of Province Chubut, half way between the coast and the Andes. Huge blocks of rocks in the vicinity which look like cyclopean altars have given rise to the name of Los Altares, which means “The Altars”.

C Accommodation **

s Excursions

Motel Los Altares (A.C.A.), RN 25 KM 321 AEFGJLPUV

There are important rock paintings showing the artistic talents of the pre-Colombian population within easy walking distance from the village on the main road. The main painting, 1 m high by 50 cm wide, is painted with mineral pigments and is believed to date from the tenth century AD.

S Buses

Road transport is provided by Empresa Chubut which runs buses Tues, Thurs, Fri and Sun 22:00, Wed 07:00 from Trelew to Esquel.

U Motoring •

Service station: A.C.A.

PARQUE NACIONAL LOS ALERCES

Parque Nacional Los Alerces Postal code: 9201 @ area code: (02945) Distance from Esquel: 50 km west on RN 259 then RP 71

P

arque Nacional Los Alerces is located west of Esquel. It covers 263 000 ha (649 880 acres). The entrance to the park is at Arroyo Los Coihues. The flora 519

Parque Nacional Los Alerces

PATAGONIA is representative of the Andean-Patagonian forests with high rainfall and there are hundred-year-old larches, coihues, arrayanes and alerces, some of which are more than 1000 years old. The main purpose of the park is to protect the last remaining alerce stands in the mountains around the lakes. Many trees are over 50 m high and 4 m in diameter. Other natural attractions are the narrow somber lakes surrounded by high mountains many with small glaciers which are mirrored in the lakes. Although a scenic road traverses the full length of the national park there are still many areas untouched by civilization. Introduced species such as mink, boars, and European hare cause some damage and are difficult to eradicate. You can access the park from Trevelín. Following the Río Futaleufú, into the southern part of the national park takes you to the Futaleufú hydro-electric dam. You can go only a short distance into the park this way, and Lago Situación is closed off to the public. Entry to Futaleufú dam is only allowed at 15:00; photography is not permitted, except on top of the dam itself.

The fishing season on Lago Futalaufquen begins on November 15.

A Festivals

A fishing festival is held at Motel Pucón Pai to open the fishing season.

B Tourist information

•

Centro de Interpretación, national park headquarters Villa Futalaufquen. Fishing permits are available. Closed in winter

D Camping

•

•

•

Autocamping Los Maitenes, on the Río Desaguadero on the road to Puerto Limanao, 63 km from Esquel. south side of Lago Futalaufquen Lago Rivadavia, RP 71 on eastern side o f L a g o R i v a d a v i a, n e a r t h e guardaparque kiosk, 25km south of Cholila. No facilities. The camping area is 10 ha (25 acres) Laguna Verde, RP 71 on the eastern side of Lago Futalaufquen, 83 km

C Accommodation in Parque Nacional Los Alerces Accommodation on the west side of Lago Futalaufquen *

Hotel Futalaufquen, 65 km from Esquel just north of Puerto Limanao AELPV @ 471008

Accommodation on the east side of Lago Futalaufquen Hostería Cume-Hue, RP 71, 85 km from Esquel AELPVW @ 453639 * Hostería Quime Quipán, RP 71, 65 km from Esquel AELPVW @ 454134 • Complejo Turístico Pucón Pai, RP 71, 69 km from Esquel Also camping facilities. Open all year round @ 452828 ** Cabañas Tejas Negras, RP 71, 71 km from Esquel Reservations @ (02945) 471046 AEFGJLPUV ** Cabañas Los Tepúes, RP 71, 70 km from Esquel AEFGJLPUV • Cabañas Bahía Rosales, RP 71, 72 km from Esquel between Arroyos Centinela and Pedregoso. Also camping facilities *

Accommodation on Lago Krügger

• Refugio Lago Krügger, on the south side of the lake. Hire of boats and horses, trekking and fishing

Parque Nacional Los Alerces

520

CHUBUT •

from Esquel (30 km from Cholila). No facilities. A guardaparque (park ranger) kiosk is nearby. This beautiful spot overlooks the Río Rivadavia as it emerges from Lago Rivadavia and flows into Lago Verde (which really is emerald green). The area set aside is 10 ha (25 acres) and there is room for 40 tents

S Buses

RP 71 passes through the park connecting all the lakes. Empresa Daniel Zavala runs buses on this route to and from Bariloche stopping at all hotels and most camping sites. Transportes Esquel has daily buses from Esquel into the national park. The last bus to Esquel returns 18:00.

# Water transport

There are launch trips on the lakes; see Excursions below.

a Sport

Local guides hire outboard motor boats for fishing.

s Excursions

All tours to the park can be arranged in Esquel; see Excursions from Esquel on page 516.

Lake tour: Launch cruises depart from Puerto Limanao on the western side of Lago Futalaufquen, and cruise up the fiord-like lake to the far northern end where the Río Arrayanes forms the connection between Lago Verde and Lago Futalaufquen. The launch continues into Lago Verde. There you disembark and make your way on foot to Lago Menéndez where you board another vessel. The cruise on Lago Menéndez includes superb views of Cerro Torrecillas the Glaciar Torrecillas—take your camera. From there it is a short walk to Lago Cisne which has views to the main chain of the Andes. The forests around these lakes are much denser than those on the meseta, resembling the forests on the Chilean side of the Andes. The trees are mainly conifers and giant fern trees. The most exciting trees however are the alerces or alerzal trees, 40 m tall and 3 m in diameter, some of which are estimated to be a thousand years old and still growing. This trip can be booked through a tour operator in Esquel

PARQUE NACIONAL LAGO PUELO

Parque Nacional Lago Puelo Postal code: 8431 @ area code: (02944) Distances • From El Bolsón (Río Negro): 16 km south on RN 258 and RP 16 • From Esquel: 156 km north on RP 71 and RN 258

P

arque Nacional Lago Puelo is centred around Lago Puelo, the adjoining mountain area along the Chilean border and the pre-cordillera. It measures 23 700 ha (58 563 acres) and is located in the north-western corner of Chubut Province. The lake is connected with Lago Interior in Chile and thus drains into the Pacific Ocean. The low altitude—205 m above sea level— creates a warmer microclimate and combined with high rain fall is conducive to plants and trees which normally grow only further north. The plant life includes wild hazel, ulmo, maitén, alerce and some trees which occur only in Chile. The

wildlife includes pudu or dwarf deer, huemul or Andes deer, already rare, puma, and monito del monte (an 521

Parque Nacional Lago Puelo

PATAGONIA C Accommodation in Parque Nacional Lago Puelo Accommodation in Villa Lago Puelo • • • • • •

Hotel Enebros, RP 16 Cabañas Nosotros, RP 16 near Paralelo 42 Cabañas La Osa, RP 16 near Pasaje Entre Ríos Cabañas Huemul, Villa del Lago Cabañas La Yoica, RP 16 near Pasaje Entre Ríos Cabañas La Granja, RP 16 Villa del Lago

Accommodation in Las Golondrinas • • • • • •

Hotel Posada de Olaf, RN 258 E Hospedaje Hue Mile, RN 258 Albergue El Edén, RN 258 Albergue El Rincón, RP 16 near Crude Mad Cabañas La Golondrinas, RN 258 E Cabañas Los Radales, RN 258

499054 492586 499208 499117 499200 499265

@ @ @ @ @ @

471550 493236 471828 499252 471587 499196

E Eating out

extremely rare and nocturnal marsupial and an endangered species); the birdlife includes colorful loro barranquero, black-necked swans, and jote or Chilean vulture. Most tourist facilities are located outside the national park at the village of Villa Lago Puelo just north of the park entrance and at Las Golondrinas a little village 17 km north. El Hoyo de Epuyén and El Bolsón both approximately 20 km distant also have accommodation and regular bus services.

Eating out in Villa Lago Puelo • Restaurant La Posta de Bilbo, Avenida Los Notros. Parilla • Pizzería Ahonikenk, Avenida Los Notros • Cafetería Casa de Té de Los Duendes, RP 16 near Cruce Radal • Restaurant La Playita. Buffet

S Buses

Remise Pulmari and Remise Puelo are local colectivo services operating between Parque Nacional Lago Puelo, Villa Lago Puelo, Radal and Las Golondrinas and El Bolsón. Pulmari Turismo also acts as a tour operator @ 499214. In summer there are 6 services daily to El Bolsón ($3.00). Empresa Charter, Andesmar, and Vía Bariloche provide long-distance transport to the area but do not go directly to the National Park.

D Camping •

@ @ @ @ @ @

Camping Lago Puelo, on the lake shore. Kiosk

PUERTO MADRYN

Puerto Madryn Population: 47 000 Postal code: 9120 @ area code: (02965) Distances • From Esquel: 668 km east on RN 259, RN 40, RP 62, RN 25 and RN 3 • From Viedma: 543 km south on RN 3

Puerto Madryn

522

CHUBUT

P

uerto Madryn, on the Golfo Nuevo, was the starting point for Welsh colonization when, in 1865, Sir Jones Parry arrived with 150 Welsh families. The actual site of the landing of the first 150 Welsh families was at Punta Cuevas 4 km south of town; here is a monument to the Tehuelche. The town was named after a castle in Wales; it is the gateway to the nature reserve on the Península Valdés. •

Originally the small port served solely the agricultural community of the Río Chubut valley. Tourism, however, has changed the modern town beyond recognition. In order to broaden the economic base an aluminum smelter is located on the outskirts. Electricity comes from the Futaleufú hydro-electric power station near the Chilean Border via two 330 kW power lines. The town has a good nightlife and facilities for water sports such as sailing and diving. Within easy reach is one of the most important wildlife reserves in the world where sea elephants, killer whales, right whales, and seals gather in the mating season and give birth to their young. Whales can even be sighted from the seaside promenade in Puerto Madryn in September and October.

• • • • • • •

Pizzerías • Cabildo, H Yrigoyen 42 • Roselli, J.A. Roca 97 Cafeterías • Margarita, R.S. Peña 15. Pub • Playa, J.A. Roca 181 • Punta Ballena. Disco Eating out in Punta Cuevas • Restaurant El Barco, Bvar Brown. Seafood

n Entertainment

•

A Festivals •

Foundation Day of the Welsh Colony: July 28

•

•

Secretaría de Turismo, Avenida Julio A. Roca 223 @ 453504; fax 473029. Open 08:00–13:00; e-mail: sectur @madryn.gov.ar Asociación de Hoteles, Restauranes y Afines de Puerto Madryn, Avenida J.A. Roca 115 @ 471623

Post office: Correo Argentino, Gobernador Maiz 293 Telephone: Telefónica Patagónica, M.A. Zar 289

L Financial

• • •

D Camping •

Casino, J.A. Roca 626 on the beach front. Open daily from 21:00 onwards

I Post and telegraph

•

B Tourist information •

Cantina El Náutico, J A Roca 790. Seafood El Dique, Avenida J.B. Justo 675 Estela, R.S. Peña 27. Parilla La Caleta, San Martín 156. Seafood Las Pastas de La Nonna, Bulevar Brown 775. Italian cuisine Los Leños, Avenida Roca 672. Parilla Los Marplatenses, R.S. Peña 212. Parilla Taska Beltza, 9 de Julio 345. Pasta, seafood

A.C.A. site, Punta Cuevas, 4 km south of town $I 2. Restaurant

•

Banco de la Provincia del Chubut, 25 de Mayo 154. ATM Banco Almafuerte, R.S. Peña near 25 de Mayo. Travelers’ cheques; ATM Banco de la Nación Argentina, 9 de Julio 117. Travelers’ checks Casa Moneda, 28 de Julio 19

M Services and facilities

E Eating out

•

Restaurants • Bruno, Avenida Roca 485

523

Bicycle rental: Na Praia, Avenida Brown 860

Puerto Madryn

PATAGONIA C Accommodation in Puerto Madryn

Book in advance for summer accommodation in the better hotels. Apart Hotels

ABDHP • El Aromo, Lewis Jones 198 Web site: www.elaromo.com.ar @ 453277 • La-Gus-Mar, Ave. Roca 2050 Web site: www.lagusmar.com.ar @ 454740 fax @ 454394 fax • Las Bardas, Morgan 1751 Web site: www.lasbardas.com.ar ABCDGLQUZ • Los Tulipanes, Lewis Jones 150 Web site: www.lostulipanes.com.ar; English spoken @ 471840 fax @ 451244 • Marina, Avenida J.A. Roca 7 @ 472635 fax • Nueva León, Avenida D. García 365 ABCFHKMQP Fax 474389; web site: www.nuevaleon.com.ar; English/French spoken @ 471791 fax • Ruca Hue, Mathews near Humphries Web site: www.rucahue.com.ar

Hosterías **

Hotels **** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * *

• •

• •

Hipocampo, Vesta 33

AEFGJLPUV

@

473605

Península Valdés, J A Roca 155 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 452584; web site: www.hotelpeninsula.com.ar @ 471292 Aguas Mansas, J. Hernández 51 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 473103 Bahía Nueva, Avenida J.A. Roca 67 ACDEFGHJKLMPS$TUVY Web site: www.bahianueva.com.ar @ 450045 fax Costanera, Brown 759 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 452800 Playa, J.A. Roca 187 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Web site: www.playahotel.com.ar @ 451446 Tolosa, R.S. Peña 253 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 451141; web site: www.hoteltolosa.com.ar @ 471850 Carrera, M.A. Zar 844 AEFGJLPSUV @ 450759 fax del Sol, Sarmiento 1290 AEFGJLPSUV @ 471712 Gran Madryn 1ero, Lugones 40 AEFGJLPSUV @ 472205 Gran Palace, 28 de Julio 390 AEFGJLPUV @ 471009 Hostal del Rey, Brown 681 AEFGJLPUV @ 471093 La Posada de Madryn, Matthews 2951 AEFGHJLPSTUV Web site: www.la-posada.com.ar @ 474087 fax Mora, J.B. Justo 654 AEFGJLPUV @ 471424 fax Muelle Viejo, Avenida Yrigoyen 38 AEFGJLPUV @ 471284 Yanco, J.A.Roca 626 AEFGJLPSUV @ 471581 del Centro, 28 de Julio 149 AELPV @ 473742 El Dorado, San Martín 546 AELPV @ 471026 Meruso, Gob Maiz 545 AELPV @ 452222 Ana Mar, A. Jenkins 92 web site: www.anamar.com.ar @ 450420 El Cid, 25 de Mayo 850 AES E-mail: [email protected] @ 471416 fax La Calma, Telhuelches 140 web site: www.lacalma.com.ar @ 453350 Tandil, J.B. Justo 762 E-mail: [email protected] @ 456152 fax

Residenciales

A Anclamar, 25 de Mayo 874 A Avenida, Avenida Gales 1346 A La Posta, J.A. Roca 33

Puerto Madryn

LP LPS LP

524

@ @ @

451509 451191 472422

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CHUBUT Accommodation in Puerto Madryn — continued A A B B B

Manolo’s, Avenida Roca 763 Petit, Alvear 845 Jo’s, Bolívar 75 Santa Rita, Gob. Maiz 370 Vaskonia, 25 de Mayo 43

@ @ @ @ @

ELPV LP L L L

472390 471460 471433 471050 472581

$G $G $H $I $H

2 2 2 1 2

471581 fax 474426

$I $H

1 2

Hostels

• Albergue Juvenil Puerto Madryn, Avenida J.A. Roca 626 S @ @ • Hostelling International, 25 de Mayo 1136

•

Photographic supplies • Madryn Lab, 28 de Julio 65 • Petrel Fotos, 28 de Julio 113 local 7

R Air services

The airport is near Trelew; see Trelew on page 539. • LAPA and Kaikén, Roca 303 @ 451048/451318 • L.A.D.E., Roca 117 @ 451256

Scuba diving operators and outlets • Catamaran “Golfo Azul”, Ave. H. Yrigoyen @ 471649 fax 451181; e-mail: [email protected]. Cruises and embarkations for scuba diving • Safari Submarino, Mitre 80 @ 473800 • Golfo Azul, H Yrigoyen 200 @ 471649 • Jorge Schmid Hydrosport, Punta Ballena @ 451515 fax; Web site: www.puntaballenas.com.ar. Also bird-watching excursions • Pino Sub, Ave. H. Yrigoyen200 @ 471649 fax 451181; Web site: www.pinosub.com • Tito Bottazzi, Mitre 80 @ 474110 fax; web site: www.titibottazzi.com.ar • Velero Yhoshua @ 472808 fax. Sailing boat

U Motoring Car rental • Cuyún Co, Avenida Roca 171 @ 451845 • Localiza, Belgrano 196 @ 471660; Fiat Spazio $80.00 plus tax per day, $0.40 per km including 200 km free and insurance • A1 Rent a Car, Avenida J.A. Roca 293 @ 450295 Service station • Shell, Sarmiento 1401

Y Shopping

There is a large concentration of souvenir shops at Galería Castilla in 28 de Julio 113. • Regionales Tehuelche, 28 de Julio 113. Ceramics, carpets, and leather goods

p Sightseeing

•

a Sport •

Scuba diving: The clear waters of the Golfo Nuevo attract skin divers from all over the world. The Centro Nacional Patagónico welcomes inquiries from experienced scuba divers. For those who have never dived before underwater training sessions are organized. The Spanish word for scuba diving is “buceo”

Sailing: Conditions in the Golfo Nuevo favor sailing. The centers for sailing are Puerto Madryn and Puerto Pirámide, on the Península Valdés. There are several clubs, such as Club Náutico Atlántico Sud and Club Náutico Achernar, both in Puerto Madryn. Charter sailing cruises in the Golfo Nuevo require a minimum of four persons, $450.00 for three hours per boat

Museo Provincial de Ciencias Naturales y Oceanografia (Provincial Natural Science and Oceanographic Museum), corner of García and Menéndez, in Castillo Pujol. Good overview of the marine flora and fauna of Chubut. Open Mon–Sun 15:00–19:00

s Excursions Tour operators • Argentina Vision, J.A. Roca 536 @ 451427 fax 451108; Web site:

525

Puerto Madryn

PATAGONIA To Puerto Pirámides A CÍ AR

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13

RECONQUISTA

VILLEGAS

GOLFO NUEVO

AR

IG H.

AVE. ROCA

R.S. PEÑA N E OY

2

25 DE MAYO

A

SAN MARTÍN

IT

A LI

MARCOS A . ZAR

SÉ

B. MITRE

JO

28 DE JULIO 24 Plaza

San E

Martín

BELGRANO A 27

9 DE JULIO

Refer Puerto Madryn Centro SARMIENTO 31

32

AVE. GALES

34 33 STORNI

ESPAÑA

To Trelew

LUGONES

F. ALBARRACÍN 44 43

ALMT

PERLOT TI

CAPITÁN E. ESTIVARIZ

E BRO M. FIERRO

WN

MORENO

48

RIVADAVIA

HERNÁNDEZ

DÍAZ

PUERTO MADRYN To Rawson

Puerto Madryn

L .N. ALEM

49

A . BELGRANO

To Punta Cuevas

526

CHUBUT PUERTO MADRYN CENTRO

Key to maps

5 4

R.S.PEÑA 14 16

7

11

19 20 21 17 18 22 23

N

28 DE JULIO 25

I

26

BELGRANO C

29 28

9 DE JULIO

Golfo Nuevo

15

Hotel Tolosa Residencial Vaskonia Hotel Muelle Viejo Apart Hotel Marina Residencial La Posta Hotel Del Centro Hotel Península Valdés Hotel Playa Hotel Gran Palace Residencial Santa Rita Hotel Meruso Hotel El Dorado Hotel Mora Hotel Yanco Hotel Hostal del Rey Residencial Manolo’s Hotel Costanera Residencial Petit Hotel Carrera Residencial Anclamar Hotel Gran Madryn 1ero Hotel Aguas Mansas Hostelling International

10 12

$

3 Accommodation 2 5 8 9 10 15 21 23 24 27 31 32 34 35 38 39 41 43 44 45 46 48 49

6

AVE. J.A . ROCA

3

9

8

H. YRIGOYEN

25 DE MAYO

T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica Patagónica Secretaría de Turismo Banco de la Provincia del Chubut and Banco de la Nación Argentina Bus terminal

B. MITRE

A C D E I $

30

SARMIENTO

AVE. GALES 35 36 38

4 Eating out 6 11 12 13 14 30 33 37 40 42

37 STORNI

ESPAÑA

Pizzería Cabildo Pizzería Roselli Restaurant Estela Restaurant La Caleta Restaurant Los Marplatenses Restaurant Bruno Restaurant El Dique Restaurant Los Leños Restaurant Cantina El Náutico Restaurant Las Pastas de la Nonna

41 39

F.L . ALBARRACÍN

40 42 LUGONES

46 47 45

CAPITÁN ESTEVARIZ

PERLOT TI

5 Entertainment

7 Cafetería Margarita 36 Casino

28 Localiza

6 Airline offices

9 Sights

19 L.A.D.E. 29 LAPA and Kaikén

1

7 Tour operators and car rental 3 4 20 22 25 26

Museo Provincial de Ciencias Naturales y Oceanografia

0 Services

Golfo Azul Safari Submarino Receptivo Puerto Madryn Coyun-Có Turismo Pu-Ma Rent a Car

16 17 18 47

527

Galería Castilla Madryn Lab Casa Moneda Bicycle rental: Na Praia

Puerto Madryn

PATAGONIA S Buses from Puerto Madryn

The bus terminal is on the corner of H Yrigoyen and San Martín. Bus companies • Andesmar @ 473764. Río Gallegos, Mendoza • Central Argentino @ 473764 • Don Otto @ 451675. Buenos Aires, Mar del Plata • El Cóndor @ 473764 • El Ñandú @ 427499. Dique Ameghino and Camarones • El Pingüino ° Comodoro Rivadavia via Puerto Madryn and Trelew; 1 daily 16:15. Return 09:00 • Empresa Chubut @ 432806. Esquel • La Puntual @ 469176. Buenos Aires, Comodoro Rivadavia ° Comodoro Rivadavia via Trelew; 1 daily 07:20. Return 15:00 • Mar y Valle @ 472056. Buenos Aires, Comodoro Rivadavia • Quebus @ 473585 • T.A.C. @ 451537 ° Comodoro Rivadavia via Trelew and Rawson; 1 daily • TUP @ 473764. Córdoba, Comodoro Rivadavia • 28 de Julio @ 472056; Trelew, Rawson, Gaiman Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

• •

•

Destination Bahía Blanca

Fare $30.80

Bariloche $55.00 Buenos Aires $57.00 Caleta Olivia Camarones Carmen de Patagones Comodoro Rivadavia $29.00 Córdoba $72.00 Esquel $39.00 Mar del Plata $33.00 Mendoza Neuquén $39.00 Puerto Pirámides $8.80 Rawson Río Gallegos $73.00 Rosario $73.00 San Rafael Trelew $5.00 Viedma $10.10

Services 3 daily 3 daily 3 weekly 3 weekly 4 weekly 2 daily 1 daily 2 daily 2 weekly 1–2 daily 4 weekly 2 daily 2 weekly 6 daily 4 weekly

Duration Company 12 hrs Central Argentino, Don Otto, La Puntual Don Otto 21 hrs Don Otto, La Puntual, T.A.C. 8 hrs Andesmar TUS La Puntual Andesmar, Don Otto, La Puntual, 6 hrs TUS 18 hrs T.A.C., TUS 8 hrs Chubut, Don Otto, Mar y Valle La Puntual 23 hrs Andesmar, T.A.C. 12 hrs Andesmar, Don Otto 11 2 hrs Línea 28 de Julio Empresa Bahía 20 hrs Andesmar, Don Otto, T.A.C. Central Argentino Andesmar 1 hour Línea 28 de Julio, Mar y Valle La Puntual

•

www.arvision.com.ar.; English spoken Coyun-Có Turismo (Mar y Valle), J.A. Roca 165 @ 451845 Pu-Ma, 28 de Julio 46 @ 471482; Web site: www.turismopuma.com.ar. Also hires mini-buses with driver for day trips Receptivo Puerto Madryn, J.A. Roca 141 @ 451048

Puerto Madryn

Ryan’s Travel, R.S. Peña 120 oficina 11 @ 457000 fax 457100; e-mail: [email protected]

Typical charges • Whale watching excursion: 11 2 hrs $25.00 • Admission to Peninsula Valdés: $5.00 • Scuba diving “baptism”: $45.00

528

CHUBUT Excursions • Punta Cuevas has become the outdoor centre of Puerto Madryn. It is here that the major camping facilities such as Camping A.C.A., Camping El Golfito, Camping Municipal Sud are located. From the town center follow Bulevard Brown 3 km east. Directly on Punta Cuevas is the Monumento al Indio. Nearby is also the campus of the Universidad de La Patagonia. Regular local buses • R e s e r v a P u n t a L o m a: 1 7 k m south-east. Take the turn-off before Punta Cuevas and follow the dirt road. Open 08:00–12:00 and 15:00–20:00; small admission fee. There is a colony of seals some 700 m from the visitors’ center. You can observe sea-lions from a look-out. Once you have finished your visit you can return or turn south to the beaches at Playa Paraná and Punta Este • Península Valdés: Most of the Península Valdés is privately owned. The shoreline is an important breeding ground for whales, sea-lions, sea elephants, and seals, and there are not many areas in the world where these animals can be watched at such close range as here. You can get as close as three meters to the sea elephants. The area is arid so bring your own water if you intend camping. There is an information kiosk at the entrance to the peninsula. Salina Grande in the southern part of the peninsula is Argentina’s lowest point, 42 m below sea-level. The peninsula is best visited with a tour operator which usually includes Isla de los Pájaros, Punta Norte, and Puerto Pirámide. Points of interest on the peninsula include the following: ° Isla de Los Pájaros: Sea-birds. You cannot cross over to this island.

•

•

However, telescopes installed on the bank opposite give ample opportunity to watch the fantastic bird-life on the island, which is about 400 m offshore. Guanacos mix with visitors around the telescopes ° Punta Pirámide: Sea-lions. This is a small settlement on the Golfo Nuevo. The observation point is perched on a cliff and is a 10 minute walk from the A.C.A. Hotel ° Golfo Nuevo: Right whales ° Golfo San José: Killer whales ° Punta Norte: 176 km north—killer whales and sea elephants. Sea elephants are here all year round; killer whales are here from June to the middle of December. The best time to visit is between November and March at low tide when the tour operators run daily buses to the peninsula. Breeding time begins in the middle of August. Also of interest is Estancia Salina Grande which offers accommodation for tourists. The original estancia was founded as a fort on the banks of the Salina Grande but was completely destroyed by Mapuches in 1759. On the property are fresh water springs. The water is used for drip irrigation and for the two swimming pools. Information in Buenos Aires: J.E. Uriburu 1010, 4th floor B @ (011) 48230680 fax (011) 48230571 Punta Tombo: 200 km south on RP 1. Tour operators combine this trip with a short visit to Rawson, the provincial capital. See Punta Tombo on page 531 Dique Florentino Ameghino: 170 km south-west. This dam is on the Río Chubut

PUERTO PIRÁMIDE

Puerto Pirámide Population: 100 Postal code: 9121 @ area code: (02965) Distances from Puerto Madryn: 100 km north on RN 3 then RP 2

529

Puerto Pirámide

PATAGONIA

P

uerto Pirámide is located on the Golfo Nuevo across the bay from Puerto Madryn and is the main township on the Península Valdés. Settlement here began in 1898 when the inland salinas were exploited for salt. The salt leases expired in 1918 and the township declined. It has a good beach and clear water, and attracts many scuba divers.

C Accommodation

Hotel La Estación, J.A. Roca @ 95022 AEFGJLPUV ** Hotel The Paradise, J.A. Roca S @ 495030 $F 2 AEFGJLPUV * Motel Puerto Pirámide (A.C.A.), Avenida Julio A Roca AEFLPV E-mail: [email protected] @ 495004 A Residencial El Español, LP @ 495031 A Residencial Libanés, J.A. Roca LP @ 495007 $H 1 • Cabañas En El Mar, E-mail: [email protected] @ 495004 fax • La Posada de Gallat’s @ 495090 $E 4 Accommodation at Punta Delgada *** Hotel Faro de Punta Delgada, 65 km east on RP 2 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY. Reservations Puerto Madryn: @ (02965) 471910 fax $E 2 • Cabañas Astrid Smud, 1era Bajada al Mar @ 495049 • Cabañas El Cristal, Acceso Oeste @ 495033 $F 2 **

•

s Excursions

To cover all areas of interest on the peninsula you need your own transport and plenty of water. Otherwise, it is best to do a day tour covering most of the peninsula with a tour operator in Puerto Madryn. A full day trip costs $45.00. See Excursions from Puerto Madryn on page 529. • Punta Pirámide, also called La Lobería: 4 km. Here the vantage point on the rocks overlooks a rocky promontory where there is a colony of sea lions. It is a very spectacular view • Punta Delgada: 71 km north-east on RP 2. An old lighthouse there adds to the general atmosphere of abandonment. The views are superb. On the way you pass Salina Grande, 42 m below sea-level and the largest depression in Argentina • Punta Norte: Located at the extreme north of the peninsula, some 77 km through desolate country. Here is one of the biggest sea elephant colonies on the South American continent. A concerted effort is being made by Argentina to safeguard this endangered species, even going to the extent of having the colony fenced in • Caleta Valdés: Here a 30 km long sandbar starts, and forms a narrow water channel which widens into a lagoon at Caleta Valdés. This part of the peninsula is also extensively populated by sea elephants, and in the mating season, September–March, by dolphins and whales

D Camping

Camping is possible along the seashore. However, the water supply on the peninsula is unreliable so take your own.

E Eating out • •

Restaurant Cantina La Nona, J.A. Roca Restaurant Puerto Pirámide, J.A. Roca

S Buses •

To Puerto Madryn and Trelew: Empresa Mar y Valle, Línea 28 de Julio

U Motoring

The road to Puerto Madryn is sealed. Dirt roads on the Península Valdés are generally good.

a Sport •

Fishing and scuba diving: Punta Pardelas approximately 12 km south

Puerto Pirámide

of Puerto Pirámide on the RP 2 is ideal for fishing and scuba diving. You can also reach it by walking along the coast Scuba diving: Hydro Sport rents diving gear and small boats, and organizes land and sea wildlife tours. It has a small restaurant attached

530

CHUBUT

PUNTA TOMBO

Punta Tombo Distance from Trelew: 120 km south on RP 1

T

he promontory at Punta Tombo, a 210 ha (520 acre) wildlife reserve, is possibly the biggest penguin reserve outside Antarctica, with more than one million birds. Besides penguins there are several types of cormorants, ñandúes, guanacos, sea-lions, and maras (Patagonian hare). The penguin season runs from September to March. The first to arrive are the male penguins who start building nests. More than 40 per cent of the penguins return to the previous year’s nest site. Two eggs are laid at the beginning of October, and hatch at the end of October, but generally only one young penguin survives. In December the young penguins have their first swim. In late March, as the penguins prepare

to leave, the breeding grounds are off-limits, so check with the tourist office. The reserve can get a bit crowded in the tourist season, with both birds and humans. There are no tourist facilities at Punta Tombo. It is best to visit it with a tour operator from either Puerto Madryn or Trelew. See Excursions from Puerto Madryn on page 529 and from Trelew on page 539.

RAWSON

Rawson Population: 20 000 Postal code: 9103 @ area code: (02965) Distance from Trelew: 20 km east on RN 25

R

awson, the capital of Chubut Province and the first Welsh settlement, was founded in 1865. It was named after Dr William Rawson who organized the immigration. It is a quiet administrative center without much nightlife. Puerto Rawson is about 5 km down river. There is a good beach at Playa

C Accommodation in Rawson

Hotel Provincial, Mitre 550 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY A Residencial Papaiani, A. Maíz 377 LP B Residencial San Pedro, Belgrano 744 L

***

Accommodation at Playa Unión

Hostería Le Bon, Rifleros 68 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY • Premier Appart Hotel, P. Moreno 902 Fax 484388 A Residencial Atlansur, Avenida Guillermo Rawson 339 Fax 484388 LP

***

531

@ @ @

481300 fax 482082 481721

$F $G $H

2 2 2

@

496638 fax

$F

2

@

496360

$G

2

@

496398

$G

2

Rawson

PATAGONIA To Trelew

Key to map

O

S

LL

A

IN

I

IC

R

H

G

I

2

E R

IA

IT

AV

O

R

AD

.M

IV

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C O

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N IE M

AR

C H IN N

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A S

N B O

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SC

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D E R

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6 PU

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Ó

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To Playa Unión

O

B

C. CAGLIERO

To Comodoro Rivadavia

ER D I

M .E ST RA D A

AR ANT

T ID

A AR

GEN

T IN

A

Río Chubut COLÓN

ESPAÑA

PIEDRABUENA

25

•

B Tourist information

Dirección de Fauna Silvestre, Avenida 9 de Julio 280 @ 482604

E Eating out

Organismo Provincial de Turismo, 9 de Julio 280 @ 481383 fax Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Moreno 650 @ 481990

• •

Restaurant La Negrita, L. Jones 265 Pizzería Tu Lugar, Rivadavia 670

S Buses from Rawson

The bus terminal is on RP 25. Bus companies • Andesmar @ 482810 • Don Otto @ 482880 • La Puntual ° Trelew (1 2 hour); 1 daily • Empresa Bahía/Línea 28 de Julio ° Playa Unión via Puerto Rawson ° Trelew via Puerto Madryn ($1.00); 15 daily Long-distance services

Rawson

E

C

D

Foundation of Chubut: July 28 Petroleum day: December 13

• • •

O

TÍ

TÍ

L.

A

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AY

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25

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Organismo Provincial de Turismo Residencial Papaiani Hotel Provincial Pizzería Tu Lugar Museo Regional Salesiano

Destination Fares Bahía Blanca $29.70 Comodoro Rivadavia $70.40 Neuquén Santa Rosa Viedma

E

J. .M

A J.

B

15 DE SETIEMBRE O

Plaza A G. Rawson . C T O

A Festivals

• •

O

AL

A C O .R

A R R C E

S

.J

AVE. LIBERTAD

•

O

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ES

Unión. Beaches in the vicinity are Bonita, Barrancas Blancas, El Faro, and Santa Isabel.

•

LI

R $

5

9 Sights 0 Services

• •

JU

U

E

3

4

N

S

U

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Z

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AI

1

A

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3 Accommodation 4 Eating out

2 3 4 5 6

ER

N TA IN U Q

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Iglesia Gobernación Provincial (Government) Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica Argentina Hospital Dirección Municipal de Turismo Banco de la Nación Argentina Bus terminals

7

FE

E

9

A B C D E H I $ T

To Puerto Madryn

R

RAWSON

Services 3 weekly

Duration Company La Puntual

1 daily 3 weekly 3 weekly

5 hrs La Puntual Andesmar TUS La Puntual

532

CHUBUT •

L Financial

Cafetería Isidoro, H. Yrigoyen 24. Tanguería • Cafetería Stone Live, Piedra Buena 45. Disco Eating out in Playa Unión • Restaurant Quimei Quipan, Avenida G. Rawson • Restaurant El Galpón, Avenida G. Rawson 955. Parilla • Cafetería Totora Café, Avenida G. Rawson 755

•

U Motoring

•

•

Casino Gran Chubut, Avenida G. Rawson 950 Playa Unión

I Post and telegraph • •

Service station: A.C.A., Libertad 321

p Sightseeing

•

n Entertainment •

Banco de la Nación Argentina, Rivadavia near R.C. Jones opposite Plaza Rawson

Post office: Correo Argentino, Moreno 650 Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, Federici 56

Capel Berwyn (Welsh Historic Chapel). Named after the donor of that portion of land in 1881 Museo Regional Salesiano (Regional Salesian Museum), Don Bosco 248; in the original parish church. Memorabilia of the desert wars, minerals, and an archeological collection. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–12:00 and 15:00–19:00

s Excursions

•

Playa Unión: A beach 6 km south-east

RÍO MAYO

Río Mayo Population: 2100 Postal code: 9030 @ area code: (02903) Distances • From Coihaique in Chile: 177 km east on RN 26 • From Esquel: 427 km south on RN 40 • From Perito Moreno: 123 km north on RN 40

T

he town is in the valley of the Río Mayo, situated in a depression which shelters it from the harsh Patagonian winds. It is an important road junction on RN 40, which runs north–south, and RN 26 to Chile, and is the best place to break the long dusty journey between Perito Moreno and Esquel.

B Tourist information •

B Residencial El Cóndor, Avenida Argentina 592 L @ 420027/420310 B Residencial San Martín, San Martín 400 near Moreno L @ 420066

Municipalidad, Belgrano 585 @ 420047

C Accommodation

Río Mayo is an oil exploration center and crews are lodged in the town, sometimes making tourist accommodation difficult. & A Residencial Aka tá, San Martín 640 ADEFLPTV @ 420054 A Residencial Chile Argentina, Avenida Argentina LP @ 420071 A Residencial El Viejo Covadonga, San Martín 573 LP @ 420020 AEPV

D Camping

There is a municipal camping ground on the banks of the Río Senguerr accessed by RN 40 and Camping Noel Soto.

E Eating out

•

533

Cafetería Rancho Grande, Fontana. Disco Río Mayo

PATAGONIA • •

Regional Museum), J.Yrigoyen near Belgrano. Exhibited are archeological and paleontological items found in the region. Open Mon–Sat 09:00–12:00 and 15:00–18:30

Restaurant Adrián, Perito Moreno. Parilla Pizzería En Familia, Avenida Argentina near Perito Moreno

I Post and telegraph • •

s Excursions

Post office: Correo Argentino, Sarmiento near 25 de Mayo Telephone: Central Telefónica, 9 de Julio 383

•

L Finance •

Banco Provincia del Chubut, H. Yrigoyen near Avenida Argentina

R Air services •

L.A.D.E., Avenida San Martín 520 @ 420060 ° Alto Río Senguerr: 1 hour ° Comodoro Rivadavia: 1 hour ($25.00)

•

S Buses

There are no bus services south on RN 40 to Perito Moreno; buses coming from Comodoro and going to Coyhaique are often full to capacity. The bus terminal is on Yrigoyen near Fontana @ 420164. • Angel Giobbi and ETAP ° Comodoro Rivadavia ($21.00; 51 4 hrs) via Sarmiento (23 4 hrs); Tues and Thurs 05:00 ° Coihaique (Chile) ($23.00; 4–5 hrs); 2 weekly, ° Esquel ($33.00) via Alto Río Senguerr, and Tecka (10 hrs); 2 weekly

•

U Motoring • •

• •

RN 26 to the Chilean border is a dirt road RP 20 and RP 22 to the coast is intermittently sealed to Sarmiento and completely sealed from Sarmiento to Comodoro Rivadavia RN 40 south to Perito Moreno is a dirt road RN 40 north is intermittently sealed until Esquel; detours to remote settlements like Alto Río Senguerr are on dirt roads

•

p Sightseeing •

Museo Regional Dr. Federico Escalada (Dr. Federico Escalada

Río Mayo

534

Sarmiento and Comodoro Rivadavia: The bus travels down RP 22, makes a detour to Estancia Facundo in the Río Senguerr valley, and then joins RP 20. After leaving the Río Senguerr valley the scenery becomes interesting again as the road passes through a wide valley between the Sierra de San Bernardino, which has areas with indigenous rock paintings. The land is bare until you reach the vicinity of Lago Musters. Oil pumps along the road signal your arrival in Comodoro Rivadavia The area between Esquel and Río Mayo west of the RN 40 is full of lakes and mountain scenery and is almost untouched by tourism. The only roads are feeders to estancias in the area. In general most of the lakes in the region are inaccessible unless you have your own transport. When hiking through these areas take warm clothes, a tent, and a sleeping bag as it gets very cold at night. Interesting areas include Lago General Vintter, which extends into Chile as Lago Palena, and Lago Fontana, which is reached via Alto Río Senguerr Lago Blanco: 110 km. Some 30 km south of Río Mayo, RP 55 turns west. Because of its inaccessibility and lack of facilities, Lago Blanco is a place for the outdoor enthusiast only. Activities include hiking, and fishing for salmon and rainbow trout in the pre-cordillera streams. Take camping gear and warm clothes. There is no public transport to Balmaceda in Chile Alto Río Mayo, near the Chilean border: There is a small hotel here which serves meals. Flamingos, swans, and other bird life can be seen en route to the Chilean border in the little lagunas. A rewarding side trip can be made from La Aldea, provided you can arrange transport, to the little lake of Las Margueritas near Triana.

CHUBUT Wildlife in the forests includes deer, wild boar, and the occasional puma.

The country towards the Chilean border is pre- cordillera

SARMIENTO

Sarmiento Population: 7500 Postal code: 9020 @ area code: (0297) Distance from Comodoro Rivadavia: 150 km west on RN 26 then RP 20

S

armiento, also known as Colonia Sarmiento, is located in a basin near Lago Musters and Lago Colhué Huapí at the foot of Cerro San Bernardo. •

Sarmiento is the gateway to the Reserva Natural Bosque Petrificado José Ormachea some 30 km south and traveling another 40 km further south there is Bosque Petrificado Victor Szlapelis. Although tours to the nature reserve are organized by tour operators on a fairly regular basis, there are no regular tours to Bosque Petrificado Victor Szapelis because access is so difficult.

S Buses

The office of Empresa Trevisan is on the corner of San Martín and Alberdi. • Comodoro Rivadavia ($8.10; 3 hrs); 3 daily Empresa Trevisan • Esquel via Río Mayo ($33.00); 2 weekly Empresa A Giobbi • Río Mayo via Facundo ($8.10; 3 hrs); 2 weekly Empresa A Giobbi

U Motoring

The first 210 km to Esquel is sealed; from then on the surface is an all-weather dirt road.

C Accommodation

Hostería Los Lagos, J.A. Roca near Alberdi AEFLPV @ 493046 $G 2 A Residencial Lago Musters, Moreno near Coronel LP @ 493097 B Residencial Colón, Moreno 645 L @ 493057 • Complejo Turístico La Isla, 1.5 km outside town on the Río Senguerr @ 493238 Accommodation on a Patagonian estancia • Estancia Media Luna, RN 26 near Aldea Beleiro, 240 km west of Sarmiento. Offers nature walks, guided tours and an insight into farming in Patagonia. Information in Sarmiento: @ (02967) 493180 *

p Sightseeing

•

Museo Desidero Torres (Desidero Torres Museum), Avenida Ingeniero Coronel 345. Interesting collection of utensils used by the indigenous tribes living in the Sarmiento valley before the arrival of the Spanish

a Sport

Fishing for salmon in both Lago Musters and Lago Colhué Huapi; the water is slightly saline.

s Excursions Tour operators • Santa Teresita, Roca 487 @ 493238

E Eating out • •

Restaurant San Martín, Avenida San Martín 847

Excursions • Bosque Petrificado José Ormachea: 33 km south on a dirt road. This petrified forest is located in dry country.

Restaurant Cannon III, Uruguay 565 Restaurant Doña Petrona, Uruguay 580

535

Sarmiento

PATAGONIA Key to map

SARMIENTO

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica de Argentina Dirección Municipal de Turismo A.C.A. Bansud Bus terminal

12 DE OCTUBRE

BELGRANO

28 DE JULIO

AMEGHINO

3 Accommodation

ING. CORONEL

Residencial Urquiza Residencial Argentino Residencial Avenida Hotel Touring Club Hotel Rayentray Hotel City Hotel Centenario Hotel Libertador Residencial Rivadavia Hotel Galicia Albergue Municipal

PATAGONIA

To Lago Musters

AVE. GENERAL SAN MARTÍN

GENERAL ROCA

9 DE JULIO

GOB. FONTANA

20 DE JUNIO DEFUNCT GENERAL ROCA RAILWAY STATION

20

To Bosque Petrificado To Comodoro Rivadavia To Esquel Victor Szlapelis and Bosque Petrificado Ormachea

19 Sur Turismo 30 Punta Tombo Turismo

6 Airline offices

9 Sights

8 Museo Regional Pueblo de Luis 24 Capilla Tabernacl

L.A.D.E. Aerolineas Argentinas TAN Kaikén and S.A.P.S.E.

0 Services

7 Tour operators and car rental 1

RIVADAVIA

C. PELLEGRINI

38 La Gruta Pub 31 Teatro Verdi 16 17 20 28

PERITO MORENO

ESPAÑA

N

25 DE MAYO

Pizzería La Casa de Juan Restaurant La Casona Comedor Universitario Restaurant Martin Fierro Restaurant La Posada del Cabezón Restaurant Don Facundo Cafetería Borda Bar Restaurant El Quijote Cafetería Tennis Club Restaurant Cabildo Star Restaurant El Galeón Restaurant Un Pequeño Restaurant Restaurant La Primera

5 Entertainment

•

J.B.ALBERDI

ESTRADA

4 Eating out 3 7 9 12 13 14 15 18 22 23 27 32 36

URUGUAY

GENERAL PAZ

2 5 10 11 25 26 29 33 34 35 37

SARMIENTO

A C D E I P $ T

4 6

Roger’s Souvenir shop Chilean consulate

•

Manos Pintados: 60 km west, off RP 20. An archeological site

Localiza Rent a Car

Erosion has uncovered many of the huge trees which grew in this area some 70 million years ago Bosque Petrificado Victor Szapelis. 70 km further south on a dirt road

Sarmiento

536

CHUBUT

TRELEW

Trelew Population: 81 000 Postal code: 9100 @ area code: (02965) Distance from Puerto Madryn: 63 km south on RN 3

F

ounded in 1884 and located on the Río Chubut upriver from Rawson, this modern town has become the province’s financial center. Day excursions to Welsh towns such as Dolavón and Gaiman can be made. The town has good tourist facilities and is somewhat cheaper than Puerto Madryn. The main airport of the province is situated nearby and is also the airport for Puerto Madryn.

E Eating out

Of interest is also the Museo Paleontólogico Egidio Feruglio. Most of the objects on exhibit are from the Parque Paleontológico Bryn Gwyn; excursions are organized from the museum.

Restaurants • Cabildo Star, J.A. Roca 77 • Comedor Universitario, L. Jones near Fontana • Don Facundo, Avenida Fontana 213 • El Galeón, San Martín 118 • El Quijote, 25 de Mayo 90. International cuisine • La Casona, Sarmiento 331. International cuisine • La Posada del Cabezón, Don Bosco 23. Seafood

A Festivals •

Eisteddfod: October

B Tourist information •

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, San Martín 171 @ 420139 fax 435797

C Accommodation in Trelew Hotels **** *** *** ** ** * * *

ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ ACDEFGHJKLMP$TUVY @ City, Rivadavia 254 AEFGJLPSUV Fax 433952; E-mail: [email protected] @ Cheltum, H. Yrigoyen 1385 AELPV @ Galicia, 9 de Julio 214 AELPV @ Touring Club, Fontana 240 AELPV @ Trelew, Don Bosco 467 AEGHLPV @ Rayentray, Martín 101 Fax 420701 Centenario, San Martín 150 Fax 420542 Libertador, Rivadavia 31

Residenciales

A Argentino, A. Mathews 186 A Rivadavia, Rivadavia 55 Fax 423491 A San Carlos, Sarmiento 758 B Avenida, Lewis Jones 49 B Provincia, Yrigoyen 625 B Urquiza, Urquiza 349

LP ELP LP L EL L

537

435141

$D

2

426111

$E

2

422020 fax

$E

2

433951 429700 433802 433997 437592

$G $G $G $G $H

2 2 2 2 2

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436134

$H

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@ @ @ @ @

434472 421038 434172 420944 420949

$F $H $H $G $I

2 2 2 2 2

Trelew

PATAGONIA To Comodoro Rivadavia

To Puerto Madryn 3

L .N. ALEM

T

25 1

To Rawson

3

POSADAS

URQUIZA 2

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO 3

MORENO

MORENO 4

JUJUY 5

ING. E. WILLIAMD

11

12

9

TUCUMÁN 17

18 19 20 21

A

P

E

22

27 28

24 25

29

LA RIOJA 30

23

32

31

C

26

MENDOZA

BELGRANO

J .A . R O C

16 15

SAN MARTÍN

14

YRIGOYEN 25 DE MAYO

9 DE JULIO

ON AVE

. RA

WS

N

AVE. GALES

AVE. FONTANA

ECUADOR

13

HONDURAS

DON BOS CO

10

ITALIA

SALTA

LOS INMIGRANTES

8

ESPAÑA

7

L . JONES

A . MATHEWS

R.J. BERWIN

6

SARMIENTO

RIVADAVIA

Pa

34

In

33

35

36

rq pe

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de CATAMARCA

A

nd en ci a

B. MITRE $

37 25

D 38

SAN LUIS

TRELEW

To Gaiman

• •

La Primera, Rivadavia 451. Seafood Martin Fierro, Avenida Fontana 336. Parilla • Rancho Aparte, Fontana 236. Parilla • Un Pequeño Restaurant, Belgrano 455 Pizzerías • Caprí, San Martín near Belgrano • La Casa de Juan, Moreno 360. • Pizzería Delikatessen, A.P. Bell 434

Trelew

Cafeterías • Borda Bar, Pasaje Tucumán 230 • Manoa, Brasil 315. Music • Tennis Club, Belgrano 460. Pool Eating out outside Trelew • Restaurant Don Pedro, intersection of RN 3 with RN 25. Parilla

538

CHUBUT n Entertainment

•

• • •

•

•

Casino Gran Chubut, J.A. Roca near Belgrano Disco La Recova, Avenida Eva Perón La Gruta, B Mitre 235. Bar Teatro Verdi, San Martín block 100

Y Shopping

I Post and telegraph

•

•

•

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Mitre near 25 de Mayo on Plaza Independencia Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, J A Roca near Pasaje Tucumán

• •

•

Chilean consulate, Don Bosco 145 @ 420920

R Air services

Aeropuerto Almirante Zar is 5 km from the center. Buses to and from Puerto Madryn stop at the airport whenever a plane arrives or departs. Airlines • Aerolíneas Argentinas, Belgrano 286 @ 435297 • Kaikén and S.A.P.S.E., San Martín 146 @ 421438 • L.A.D.E., Fontana 227 @ 435740 • TAN, Belgrano 326 @ 434081 Services • Buenos Aires ($220-$400; 13 4 hrs); 2 daily • Río Gallegos (11 2 hrs); 1 daily • Ushuaia: 4 weekly

• •

•

Museo Regional Pueblo de Luis (Lewis Village Regional Museum), 9 de Julio near Fontana. Exhibited are objects and memorabilia of the Welsh colonisation. Open Mon–Fri 07:00–13:00 and 14:00–20:00 Museo Paleontológico Egidio Feruglio (Egidio Feruglio paleontological Museum), Ave. 9 de Julio 655 a bit outside town on the road to Gaiman. Most of the items exhibited come from the Parque Paleontológico Bryn Gwyn some 10 km outside town. In the sedimentary rocks you find dinosaurs and marine fauna belonging to the quaternary period. The museum also organises trips to Bryn Gwyn. Open Mon–Fri 08:30–21:00; also some hours Sat and Sun Capilla Tabernacl, Belgrano block 300 near San Martín; oldest church in Trelew In the cemetery are the graves and tombstones of many of the Welsh settlers who arrived in 1865

s Excursions Tour operators • Punta Tombo Turismo, San Martín 150 @ 420358 • Sur Turismo, Belgrano 320 @ 434081 Excursions • Camarones and Reserva Natural Cabo Dos Bahías: 270 km south on the RN 3 then RP 30. See Camarones on page 499 • Puerto Madryn and Península Valdés: 12 hours. See Puerto Madryn on page 529

U Motoring •

Mini golf: Club San Benito, Barrio San Benito

p Sightseeing

•

Banco de la Provincia del Chubut, Rivadavia near 25 de Mayo. ATM Bansud, 9 de Julio 320. ATM Sur Turismo, Belgrano 330, @ 434081. Travelers’ checks

P Visas, passports •

Jagüel, Soberanía Nacional near Belgrano. Souvenirs and artesanías Roger’s Souvenir shop, Moreno 463. Serves Welsh afternoon teas

a Sport

L Financial •

Localiza, Urquiza 310 @ 435344. FIAT Spazio $100.00 per day and $0.40 per km plus tax and insurance

Service station: Avenida 9 de Julio near Fontana. A.C.A., Fontana near San Martín @ 435197

Car rental • Avis, Paraguay 105 @ 434634 • A1 Rent a Car, San Martín 129 @ 420898 fax 432289

539

Trelew

PATAGONIA S Buses from Trelew

The bus terminal is on the corner of L Jones and Urquiza. Bus companies • Andesmar/Central Argentino, Of. 4 @ 433535 • Don Otto, Of. 9 @ 432434 • El Cóndor/La Puntual, Of. 10 @ 433748 • El Ñandú ° Dique F. Ameghino (3 hrs); Sun 09:00 • El Pingüino, Of. 3 @ 421343 • Empresa Chubut, Of. 8 @ 432806 ° Dique F. Ameghino (3 hrs) via Gaiman (1 2 hour), Dolavón , and Las Chapas (2 hrs) ; Sun 08:00; return Sun 17:00 • Línea 28 de Julio ° Dolavón ($2.60; 1 hour) via Gaiman ($1.40; 1 2 hour); 10 daily 07:30–21:30; return 05:15–21:30 ° Puerto Madryn; 12 daily • 28 de Julio/Mar y Valle, Oficina 6/7 @ 432429 • Quebus @ 422760 • T.A.C. @ 431452 • TUS, Of. 5 @ 421343 • Mar y Valle @ 432429 ° Puerto Madryn; 5 daily 07:00–19:00 ° Puerto Pirámide (21 2 hrs) via Puerto Madryn; 07:45; return 19:00; 4 weekly Long-distance services • • • • • • •

Destination Bahía Blanca Bariloche Buenos Aires

Fares $45.00 $66.00 $76.00

Services 4 daily 4 daily

• • • • • • •

Caleta Olivia $25.00 Camarones $9.00 Catamarca $80.00 Comodoro Rivadavia $32.00 Córdoba $78.00 Esquel (via Languiñeo) $35.00 Esquel (via Tecka) $35.00 Gobernador Costa Mar del Plata $72.00 Mendoza $76.00 Neuquén $42.00 Puerto Deseado Puerto Madryn $4.00 Rawson $1.00

4 weekly 5 weekly 2 weekly 1 daily 1 daily 1 daily 5 daily 15 daily

•

Río Gallegos

2 daily

• • •

Rosario Santa Rosa Viedma

• • •

Trelew

$71.00 $100.00 $46.00 $28.00

2 daily 3 weekly 2 wekly 3 daily 3 weekly

Duration Company 12 hrs Don Otto, El Cóndor, T.A.C. Don Otto 22 hrs Don Otto, El Cóndor, Que Bus, T.A.C. 10 hrs Andesmar, T.A.C. 31 2 hrs Don Otto, TUS Robledo Don Otto, Andesmar, TUS, 5–6 hrs El Pingüino, T.A.C. 22 hrs TUS

1 weekly

3 weekly 3 weekly

9 hrs

Empresa Chubut

9 hrs Don Otto Don Otto Don Otto 24 hrs Andesmar, T.A.C. 11 hrs Don Otto, Andesmar Don Otto 1 hour Línea 28 de Julio 1 hour Línea 28 de Julio, Empresa 2 Rawson 17 hrs Andesmar, Don Otto, T.A.C., Quebek Central Argentino TUS 7 hrs Central Argentino

540

CHUBUT • •

•

Punta Tombo, 120 km south: 6 hours. See page 531 Rawson and Playa Unión, 4 hours. See page 531

•

Gaiman and Dolavón: Welsh towns. See Gaiman on page 517 and Dolavón on page 508 Dique Florentino Ameghino: 10 hours. See page 518

TREVELÍN

Trevelín Population: 7200 Postal code: 9203 @ area code: (02945) Altitude: 390 m Distance from Esquel: 23 km south on RN 259

T

he first Welsh settlers arrived in Trevelín from the coast in 1888. Some of the pioneers came with Colonel Fontana as members of the Rifleros del Chubut (Chubut Rifles).

This little town has retained much of its Welsh character. It is the last town before crossing into Chile either via the border post of Los Cipreses to Futaleufú in Chile or via Corcovado to Palena in Chile. The hub of town is Plaza Coronel Fontana (previously known as Plaza 28 de Julio), from which the main streets emerge in line with the needle of the compass: Antártida Argentina is due north and Avenida San Martín is due south. The town can serve as a starting point for excursions to lakes, mountains and Mapuche villages and to the hydroelectric complex of Futaleufú near the exit of Lago Amutui Quimei.

Camping near Los Cipreses • Autocamping Río Grande: On the road to the Chilean border just before the Río Futaleufú bridge

E Eating out

•

El Tano, 9 de Julio near Brown, at the entrance to town. Pizzería • Pizzería Küimey Ruca, Rotonda 28 de Julio Welsh tea-rooms • La Muticia, San Martín 170 • Té Nain Maggie, Perito Moreno 179

I Post and telegraph

• •

Q Border crossing

About 38 km west of Trevelín is the border crossing into Chile. The former ferry across the Río Futaleufú has been replaced by a bridge. Argentine passport control is a few hundred meters west of the bridge on the north side of the river. This border crossing is open all year round. The first town you reach in Chile is Futaleufú — see the companion volume Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Region X de los Lagos”.

B Tourist information • •

Oficina de Informes Turísticos, Plaza Coronel Fontana @ 480120 fax 480145 Dirección de Bosques, RN 259 @ 480128; e-mail: trevelin@cybernet. com.ar

D Camping •

Post office: Correo Argentino, San Martín near Brown Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, San Martín

Autocamping La Granja Trevelín: 4 km north on RN 259, on the Esquel side. Horse riding

541

Trevelín

PATAGONIA O PATAGONIA

JU LI

I

PLAZA CORONEL FONTANA

4 8 10 12 13

3

N

JO

ER

VI E

7 8

W O

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EP EN

$

5

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A

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11

D

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6

M O

LI

LI

E D IC

W IL

2 3 6 7

D IE BR M E

SARMIENTO

LIBERTAD

H 12 C

Camping Adventure Hostería Estefanía Cabañas Nueva Era Residencial Trevelin Residencial Pezzi

4 Eating out

13

J. D. EVANS

El Tone Pizzería Küimey Ruca Tearoom Las Muticias Tearoom Té Nain Maggie

9 Sights

13

T

11 Museo Regional de Trevelín (Old Mill)

0 Services

RO A

14

C

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

ING. A.P. IWAN

AM S

P. MORENO

Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Hospital Oficina de Informes Turísticos Banco de la Provincia del Chubut Bus terminal

3 Accommodation

25 DE MAYO

E. AV

4

AR A

D

FU G IO

M AL AC

C D H I $ T

N

9

RE

Key to map

Y NC A AMA

E

AL AF AT E

ÍN

C

RT

M. WILLIAMS

FO

ANT. ARGENTINA

To Esquel 259

14 Artesanías de Trevelín

25 DE NOVIEMBRE 259

To Corcovado

U Motoring

and Futaleufú (Chile)

•

S Buses

Service station: Y.P.F., corner of San Martín and John Evans

Y Shopping

•

The bus terminal is on Libertad opposite J.A. Roca. Empresa CODAO runs 5 weekly services to Carrenleufú, 8 daily to Esquel ($1.50) and 3 weekly to Río Grande/Futaleufú.

Artesanías 450

de Trevelín, Sarmiento

p Sightseeing

•

Museo Regional de Trevelín located in the Molino Viejo (Old Mill). The

C Accommodation in Trevelín Residenciales

B Pezzi, Sarmiento 353 B Trevelín, San Martín 295

L L

Hosterías

Estefanía, Perito Moreno AELPV • Cabañas Nueva Era, Molino Viejo 367 E

*

@ @

480146 480102; also cabañas

@ @

480148 480295

@

450317

@

480016 fax

@

480091

Accommodation on road to Futaleufú power station Cabañas • Aiken Leufú, KM 12 AE Tent hire, boat hire, horse riding • El Tropezón, Ave. San Martín near Saavedra E-mail: [email protected] • Ruca Mamuel, RN 259 KM 34.5 ABCDHUV E-mail: [email protected] • Hostal Casa Verde, Los Alerces E-mail: [email protected]

Trevelín

542

CHUBUT

•

name “Trevelín” means “mill village”. Memorabilia and items brought from Wales by the first settlers. Open daily 09:00–21:00 Escuela no 18 (School no 18), outside the town, was used in 1902 for a plebiscite to decide the nationality of the area

•

s Excursions •

•

Parque Nacional Los Alerces. See page 519 Mapuche Indian reserve on Laguna Rosario: 35 km south RP 17. Artistic

543

tapestries and woollen clothes are made here by the local Indians. Nant y Fall is on the river which flows out of Laguna Rosario: there are seven waterfalls in all, which are reached by a walking trail. Fishing in the lake is possible Futaleufú in Chile: See the companion volume Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región X de Los Lagos”

Trevelín

SANTA CRUZ SANTA P Santa ATAGONIA Cruz CRUZ

Plate 10 546 547 549 550 551 552 555 559 560 562 564 565 565 566 568 569 571 572 573 576 577 579 583

Map of Santa Cruz Province Bajo Caracoles CSUst Caleta Olivia BCEISUps Map Comandante Luis Piedra Buena Map ABCDERSs El Calafate BCDEnJKLMQRSU#XYbstv Map El Chaltén BCSDCREMSs Map Gobernador Gregores ABCERSUWes Los Antiguos ABCEQsRS Parque Nacional Francisco Perito Moreno CDebs Parque Nacional Los Glaciares CDSbesv Perito Moreno ABCDEJKLMSUWXEst Map Puerto Deseado ABCDEILRS#UYabepsv Map Puerto San Julián BCDEJKLMRSUWYaepqrv Map Puerto Santa Cruz ACRSesv Río Gallegos ABCEnJKLMPRS#UVWYepqs Map v Río Turbio ABCEJKMQRSTUaces

anta Cruz is the second largest province of Argentina. It extends from the Atlantic coast to the southern Andes chain and the Chilean border, and in the far south it is bounded by the Estrecho de Magallanes, known in English as the Strait of Magellan. In the north it shares a border with Chubut Province. The capital is Río Gallegos, 2750 km south of Buenos Aires.

S

544

SANTA CRUZ National Parks and reserves

The province’s population is sparse, being about 161 000. Agriculture is restricted to sheep farming in the Patagonian plateau. However, it is rich in mineral deposits. Oil is found in the extreme north near Caleta Olivia and in the extreme south near the Chilean border. Coal is mined at Río Turbio. Because the climate is dry and harsh the tourist season is restricted to the summer months, when the resorts are very crowded. At times the pampero blows and stirs up dust clouds. Vegetation on the windswept plateaus consists mostly of bushes. The best time to visit this southern province is between October and April, although tourist facilities are dearer than at other times. To overcome the shortage of tourist facilities in outlying areas, the Subsecretaría de Turismo has enlisted the co-operation of estancia holders away from the crowded tourist centers. These so-called estancias turísticas offer accommodation, food, pick-up services, and trips to nearby places of interest. These could be natural reserves, indigenous cave paintings, or fishing trips which would otherwise be inaccessible to tourism. Of the 26 estancias offered I have selected those of major interest to ecotourists. On the coast there are attractive beaches along the Golfo San Jorge. There are sea-lion breeding grounds near Cabo Blanco and Punta Quilla, and penguin colonies at various points along the coast. At Río Pinturas you can see ancient indigenous rock paintings.

To protect the scenic beauty and wildlife, several national parks, reserves and natural monuments have been established. • Monumento Natural Bosques

•

•

•

•

•

•

545

Petrificados near Laguna Grande south of Caleta Olivia. See Caleta Oliva on page 547 Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. This is one of Argentina’s major tourist attraction with more than a dozen major glaciers, the most famous being the Glaciar Perito Moreno on Lago Argentino See Excursions from El Calafate on page 557 Parque Nacional Francisco Perito Moreno can be reached via Gobernador Gregores, but you require your own vehicle. See page 565 Reserva Natural Ría del Deseado: From the mouth of the river is a 40 km strip set aside as a natural reserve. The town of Puerto Deseado is within the Reserva Natural and serves as a base for visitors. See Excursions from Puerto Deseado on page 572. Reserva Provincial Bahía Oso Marino. Isla Castillo is the nesting place of grey cormorants whilst Isla Chata has a colony of imperial cormorants and a few sea lions. Accessible by tour operator from Puerto Deseado Reserva Natural Cabo Blanco. Located 60 km north of Puerto Deseado. Scenic coastal area with a major seal colony and sea bird colonies on the nearby islands. Accessible by tour operator from Puerto Deseado Reserva Natural Bahía Laura. Located 80 km south of Puerto Deseado, strictly speaking between Faro Campana off Punta Santa Cruz

PATAGONIA •

Mercedes and Faro Cabo Guardián. Contains a large colony of black-necked cormorants. Dolphins play in the waters and near Cabo Guardián there is a colony of Magellan penguins

Tourist destinations

Archeological sites •

•

Cuevas del Gualicho and Punta Bonita. Located 8 km east of El Calafate on Lago Argentino. See Excursions from El Calafate on page 557

Make an effort & Parque Nacional Los Glaciares & El Chaltén

Estancia La María. On this estancia are some of the most important rock paintings in Santa Cruz Province. It is best reached from Puerto San Julian. See excursions from Puerto San Julian on page 575 Cueva de las Manos and Cueva Grande del Arroyo Feo. Located 47 km north of Bajo Caracoles in the Río Pinturas valley. See Excursions from Bajo Caracoles on page 547 and from Perito Moreno on page 569

Very interesting

& El Calafate & Río Pinturas & Parque Nacional Perito Moreno Of interest Puerto Deseado Puerto San Julián Río Gallegos Río Turbio

& & & &

BAJO CARACOLES

Bajo Caracoles Postal code: 9315 Distance from Perito Moreno: 128 km south on RN 40

B

ajo Caracoles is located in the pre-cordillera. The Andes are clearly visible from here. Cerro San Lorenzo at 3706 m is the highest mountain in the province. Bajo Caracoles is the gateway to Reserva Nacional San Lorenzo and the northern part of Parque Nacional Francisco Perito Moreno.

C Accommodation

Hipólito Yrigoyen, 41 km west on RP 39 on the way to Lago Posadas, is hiking country and an angler’s paradise. Lago Posadas links up with Lago Pueyrredón (whose Chilean portion is called Lago Cochrane). There is a once-weekly bus service to Puerto San Julián via Bajo Caracoles and Gobernador Gregores. During summer there is supposed to be a service to Perito Moreno, but check first.

Bajo Caracoles

•

Hotel Bajo Caracoles F $I 1 Accommodation in Hipólito Yrigoyen • La Posada del Posadas. Reservations in Comodoro Rivadavia: @ (02967) 4474964 $F 2 • Complejo Lagos del Furioso. Located on the península separating Lago Posadas from Lago Pueyrredón. Located in majestic natural environment in the shade of Cerro San Lorenzo and with access to several lakes. Capacity is 38 beds in cabins. It is the starting point for excursions into Reserva Nacional San Lorenzo and the northern part of Parque 546

SANTA CRUZ s Excursions

Nacional Francisco Perito Moreno. They also organize visits to Cueva de las Manos

•

S Buses

Buses continue to Lago Posadas and leave on Wednesday at 09:30 to the coast; $45.00, 12 hrs. • Puerto San Julián ($37.00; 10 hrs); 09:30 Wed; Cerro San Lorenzo • Gobernador Gregores ($20.00; 4 hrs); 09:30 Wed; Cerro San Lorenzo • Perito Moreno; 07:00 Wed; Cerro San Lorenzo. Buses run in summer only

U Motoring

RN 40 north to Perito Moreno is a gravel road. There are a few interesting sections halfway along, when a low pass has to be negotiated. The chain of the Andes is visible to the west all the way. It takes about three hours from Bajo Caracoles to Perito Moreno. Very few trucks or cars pass through between March and November.

•

Río Pinturas valley: In this valley there are two caves containing indigenous rock paintings, Cueva de las Manos and Cueva Grande del Arroyo Feo. The oldest rock paintings are nearly 10 000 years old and are a remarkable expression of art of those long extinct tribes. They depict hunting scenes, geometrical symbols and hands. If you can obtain transport to Estancia Elisa, it is possible to visit the cave paintings there. The turn-off is 4 km north of Bajo Caracoles, and the cave can be reached from the estancia on foot. Because of the difficulty of obtaining transport, most excursions are organized from Perito Moreno. On the site there is a caretaker who acts as guide and in summer he operates a small eating-place at the site Lago Posadas: 72 km west. There is a small country hotel here. Buses from Puerto San Julián run once a week only. The area around Bajo Caracoles is rarely visited by tourists

CALETA OLIVIA

Caleta Olivia Population: 30 000 Postal code: 9011 @ area code: (0297) Distances • From Río Gallegos: 735 km northwards on RN 3 • From Comodoro Rivadavia: 70 km south on RN 3

C

aleta Olivia is the urban center for important oil fields stretching as far west as Las Heras, 134 km away. The gas from the field near Pico Truncado is piped to Buenos Aires.

Pico Truncado

there is little of interest for tourists. Cooperativa Sportman runs eight services daily to Pico Truncado, Caleta Olivia and Comodoro Rivadavia; one to two services daily to Perito Moreno and Los Antiguos .

On the road to Perito Moreno and Los Antiguos on the Chilean border following first RP 12 south-west you arrive in Pico Truncado, a sizeable town of 13 000 inhabitants located 123 km south-west of Comodoro Rivadavia. It is the center of a vast oil and gas field and a convenient stopover for travelers going west, but

Las Heras Continuing 80 km west on RP 43 from Pico Truncado you arrive in

547

Caleta Olivia

PATAGONIA patches over lagunas indicating that the soil is salty. Seventy km south of Fitz Roy is the turn-off east to the petrified wood area Monumento Natural Bosque Petrificado incorporating Laguna Grande. At Tres Cerros there is an A.C.A. service station with a café. Usually buses make a meal break here. In the distance a few hills can be seen.

Las Heras, a convenient stopover to Perito Moreno 168 km west. Cooperativa Sportman runs 8 daily services to Caleta Olivia ($7.00) and Comodoro Rivadavia ($12.00); the first bus leaves at 05:45 and the last service is 24:00; there is also a daily service to Perito Moreno and Los Antiguos.

p Sightseeing

•

B Tourist information •

Dirección de Turismo, Avenida Güemes near San Martín @ 461075 fax

E Eating out • • • •

Restaurant Centro Español, Avenida San Martín 1970 Restaurant El Abuelo, Avenida Independencia 1195 Restaurant El Puerto, Avenida Independencia 1060 Pizzería Romanella, Güemes 2070

s Excursions Tour operators • Receptivo Caleta, 13 de Diciembre 2032 @ 4851154 fax Excursions • Monumento Natural Bosques Petrificados: Follow RN 3 south for 156 km and turn west into RP 49 which is a good 50 km gravel road. The petrified forest is 24 km west of Estancia La Paloma. The trunks are made up entirely of the Araucaritis mirabilis species; they are estimated to be at least 40 million years old. Some

I Post and telegraph •

Museo del Hombre y Su Entorno (Museum of Man and his Environment), Saavedra near 25 de Mayo, in the Casa de Cultura. Archeology, history, geology, flora and fauna of the region are represented. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–12:00 and 14:00–17:00

Telephone: Telefonía Caleta, Avenida Independencia 1147

U Motoring

There are several gas and service stations. The road south is typical Patagonian tableland. Occasionally there are white

C Accommodation in Caleta Olivia Hotels Robert, San Martín 2151 Fax 4852924 * Grand Hotel, Mosconi near Chubut • Caprí, José Hernández 1145 • Granada, San José Obrero

**

AEFGJLPUV

@

4851452

AEFLPV

@ @ @

4851393 4851132 4851512

$E $G $G $G

2 2 2 2

@

492029

$H

2

@ @

494097 494756

$G $E

2 2

Accommodation in Pico Truncado Hotels • La Paz, Avenida San Martín 596

Accommodation in Las Heras Hotels

A Lo del Tordoc, Gobernador Gregores 695 LP • Provincia, Bolívar 482 fax 494761

Accommodation on RN 3 south

• Parador La Cabaña, KM 2086. 26 km from turnoff to Monumento Natural Bosques Petrificados. Also service station with cafeteria. Buses make stops on demand

Caleta Olivia

548

SANTA CRUZ

Key to map

D E I $ T

Correo Argentino (Post Office) Telefonía Caleta Dirección de Turismo Banco de la Nación Banco de la Provincia de Santa Cruz Bus terminal

3 Accommodation

2 3 7

Hotel Grand Hotel Hotel Robert Hotel Caprí

4 Eating out

4 5 8

Pizzería Romanella Restaurant Centro Español Restaurant El Puerto

of the petrified tree trunks are 3 m thick and 20 m long. The reserve includes also Laguna Grande. The largest concentrations of fossilized or petrified wood are found near Cerro Madre e Hija. There is a park ranger on duty all year. You can reach it with your own vehicle or by tour operator. The nearby Estancia La Paloma is a sheep farm and estancia turística with a capacity of four beds and camping for 60 people. The best time to visit is October–April. Reservations: Sr. Nicolás Urricelqui @ 443503 cabina pública, Jaramillo or tourist office in Caleta Olivia. To get here you need your own transport or arrange a

•

549

9

Restaurant El Abuelo

9 Sightseeing

1

Museo del Hombre y Su Entorno

0 Services

6 Buses Ortiz 10 Empresa Andesmar

pickup from RN 3 at La Cabaña, a bus stop on RN 3 KM 2086 Reserva Cañadón del Duraznillo and Reserva Cabo Blanco. Both reserves are on the Atlantic coast and are best reached from Estancia La Madrugada. They are the habitat of ñandues; they also have a large population of sea-lions as well as a large colony of cormorants. The best time to visit: September–May. This estancia turística is located 190 km south of Caleta Olivia with two beds. You need your own transport or arrange pick-up from Jaramillo. Reservations: @ (0297) 472400, fax (0297) 472298

Caleta Olivia

PATAGONIA S Buses from Caleta Olivia Bus companies The bus terminal is on Avenida San Martín near Independencia. • A65 El Pingüino @ 4851929 • A163 La Unión @ 4851213 • A208 Sportman @ 4851287 • A210 Sur Servicios • A221 Transportadora Patagónica Don Otto @ 4851929 Bus companies with own terminal • A195 Quebek, San José Obrero • A211 T.A.C., Monsignor Fagnano Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Services Comodoro Rivadavia $5.00 24 daily Comandante Luis Piedra Buena $14.00 4–5 daily Córdoba $90.00 Thurs, Sat Las Heras $7.00 10 daily Los Antiguos $17.00 1daily Perito Moreno $15.00 1daily Pico Truncado $3.00 10 daily Puerto Deseado $15.00 2 daily Puerto San Julián $8.00 5–6 daily Puerto Santa Cruz$14.00 4 daily Río Gallegos $35.00 3–4 daily

Duration

Company A163, A195, A208

6 hrs

A65, A195, A211, A221 A195 A163, A208 A208 A208 A163, A208 A163 A65, A195, A210, A221 A65, A211, A221 A65, A195, A211, A221

5 hrs 4 hrs 11 hrs

COMANDANTE LUIS PIEDRA BUENA

Comandante Luis Piedra Buena Population: 3500 Postal code: 9303 @ area code: (02962) Altitude: Sea-level Distance from Río Gallegos: 237 km north on RN 3

C

omandante Luis Piedra Buena (commonly referred to simply as “Piedra Buena”) is located 2 km off the main highway on the Río Santa Cruz estuary. Several bus companies have their starting point here for inland destinations.

A Festivals •

C Accommodation

•

Festival de La Música “Isla Pavón”: 2nd week in December

*

B Tourist information •

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Avenida Gregorio Ibañez 388

Comandante Luis Piedra Buena

*

550

Hotel Internacional, Gobernador Ibañez 99 @ 47197 $H 2 Hostería Huayén, Belgrano Oeste 321 at the entrance to town AELPV @ 497265 $H 2 Motel A.C.A., RN 3 KM 2404, opposite turn-off into town AELPV @ 497245 $H 2

SANTA CRUZ Key to map A C D E F H I $

Iglesia Municipalidad Correo Argentino (Post Office) Telephone Carabineros Hospital Dirección Municipal de Turismo Banco de la Provincia de Santa Cruz

3 Accommodation 1 2 5 7

Motel A.C.A. Hostería Huayén Residencial Andalucía Hotel Internacional

4 Eating out 3 4

Restaurant Restaurant

•

Hostería El Alamo, Lavalle 8 @ 497249 $G 2 A Residencial Andalucía, Belgrano near Sáenz Peña LP @ 497797 $G 2

D Camping •

Camping Municipal Isla Pavón. Capacity 40 tents

E Eating out •

Motel A.C.A., RN 3 KM 2404; opposite town entrance

s Excursions •

Puerto Santa Cruz: Just south of town there is a crossing over the Río Santa

S Buses from Comandante Luis Piedra Buena

Buses which do not enter Piedra Buena usually pick up travelers at the A.C.A. Motel on the main highway. Bus companies • A18 Burmeister • A58 El Greko • A65 El Pingüino • A195 Quebek Tours • A246 Turis Santa Cruz Long-distance services • • • • •

Destination Fare Caleta Olivia $14.00 Comodoro Rivadavia $19.00 Gobernador Gregores $16.00 Puerto San Julián $9.00 Río Gallegos $12.50

Services Duration Company Mon, Wed, Fri A195 Mon, Wed, Fri Tues, Fri 1–3 daily 2–3 daily

A195 11 2 hrs 3 hrs

551

A58 A18, A195, A246 A18, A58, A65, A195

Comandante Luis Piedra Buena

PATAGONIA

•

Cruz. The bridge’s central pylon rests on Isla Pavón, the site of the landing in 1859 of Comandante Luis Piedra Buena in the Nancy to claim Patagonia for Argentina. Seven km from the bridge is the turn-off east to Puerto Santa Cruz, the original capital of the province. See also Puerto Santa Cruz on page 576 El Calafate: 287 km on RP 9. The turn-off eastwards is 18 km further south of the turn-off to Puerto Santa Cruz. The road is unsealed and runs through typical Patagonian country over flat windswept plateaux. Occasionally the Río Santa Cruz can be seen to the right. Shortly after

•

Estancia La Fortaleza the road descends into the valley, where there is a bridge over the Río Bote. Just after the crossing is RN 40 which runs north to Jujuy province skirting the chain of the Andes. Continuing west it is a further 43 km to El Calafate RN 3 continues south to Río Gallegos through the mainly flat Patagonian landscape. After crossing the Río Coig the land becomes greener. At the Güer Aike just 26 km before arriving in Río Gallegos is the beginning of RN 40 in Patagonia, which ends just before La Quiaca near the Bolivian border

EL CALAFATE

El Calafate Population: 3200 Postal code: 9405 @ area code: (02902) Distances • From Río Gallegos: 318 km north-west on RP 5 and RP 11 • From Perito Moreno: 630 km southward on RN 40 • From Puerto Santa Cruz: 302 km eastwards on RP 9

E

l Calafate (often just called “Calafate”) is located in the pre-cordillera on the southern shore of Lago Argentino. It was officially founded in 1927. The lake softens the harsh Patagonian conditions, and El Calafate enjoys a temperate micro climate. The wet season is usually between the end of March and May, but the best months to visit are from November to April. During the December–January holiday period the town and the surrounding district are packed with tourists, when the town’s facilities are especially strained, and it is advisable to book in advance for both accommodation and air travel. Many streets in town are still unpaved. El Calafate is the starting point for all excursions into the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, the southern entrance being only 50 km away; the northern entrance is at Lago Viedma.

At the western end of the lake, 80 km away, is the Ventisquero Moreno, one of the few glaciers in the world which is increasing in size—its face is 60 m high and 5 km wide. Pieces break off and float away as icebergs, or “tempanos”. Respect the warning signs and do not go to the edge of the lake, as these large ice chunks cause El Calafate

waves and people occasionally get washed off the nearby rocks.

B Tourist information

• •

552

Dirección Municipal de Turismo is in the bus terminal Julio A. Roca 1100 @ 491090 fax Intendencia Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, Avenida Libertador 1302 @ 491005 fax 491755. It is advisable

SANTA CRUZ C Accommodation in El Calafate

Most non-A.C.A. hotels are open only from October to April. Apart Hotels • Paseo del Libertador, Avenida del Libertador 1150

@

491511

$G

2

$C $C

2 2

Hotels **** **** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** * *

Kau-Yatun, 25 de Mayo (across Arroyo Calafate, a former estancia) Fax 491260 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 491059 Posada Los Alamos, Gobernador Moyano 1355 @ 491258 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ El Quijote, Gobernador Gregores 1155 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 491103 @ 491017 Frai Toluca, Calle 6 No 1016 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 491773 Fax 491593 Michelangelo, Gobernador Moyano 1020 Fax 491058 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 491045 Mirador del Lago, Avenida Libertador 2047 @ 491213 Fax 491176 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY A.C.A. El Calafate, 1 de Mayo 50 AEFGJLPUV Fax 491027 @ 491004 Amado, Ave. Libertador San Martín 1072 AEFGJLPUV @ 491134 Fax 491470; E-mail: [email protected] Lar Aike, Ave Libertador San Martín 2681 AEFGJLPUV @ 491306 Fax 491235 Upsala, Espora 139 AEFGJLPUV @ 491166 El Paso Verlika, Libertador 1108 AELPV @ 491009 Fax 491279 Kapenke, 9 de Julio 112 AELPV @ 491093

Hosterías *** ** ** *

Kalkén, Feilberg 119 Fax 491036 Bahía Redonda, Calle 15 No 148 Fax 491743 La Loma, Julio A.Roca 849 Schilling, Gobernador Paradelo 141

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AELPV

Cabañas

Nevis, Avenida del Libertador 1696 AELPV • Isla Solitaria, Avenida Libertador 2364 • Santa Mónica, Avenida Libertador 877

*

$D/E 2 $D 2 $D/E 2 $C/D 2 $F/G 2 $F/G 2 $E/F

2

$G $G

2 2

$G

2

@

491073

$E/F

2

@ @ @

491743 491016 fax 491453

$E $F $F

2 2 2

@ @ @

491180 491828 491188

$E $E $D

4 4 4

@ @ @

491439 491088 491117

$G 2 $G 2 $G/H 2

@ @

491323 491118

$I $G

2 2

@

491642

$G

2

@ @ @

491170 491328 491113

$G/H 2 $I 1 $H 2

Hospedajes

A Cabañas del Sol, Avenida Libertador 1956 LP Fax 491300 A Cerro Cristal, Gob. Gregores 989 LP A Del Norte, Los Gauchos 813 LP Fax 491044 A Jorgito, Moyano 943 LP A Las Cabañitas, Feilberg 218 LP A Las Lengas, Avenida Libertador near 7 de Diciembre LP A Los Lagos, 25 de Mayo 220 LP Fax 491348 B Alejandra, Espora 60 L B Amancay, Gobernador Gregores 1253L

553

El Calafate

PATAGONIA Accommodation in El Calafate — continued B Avenida, Libertador 902 B Lago Azul, Perito Moreno 83 B Los Dos Pinos, 9 de Julio 358

L L L

Youth hostel

• Albergue Del Glaciar, Los Pioneros BELZ Open 15 November–10 April. English spoken

Accommodation in Villa Parque Nacional Los Glaciares Hotels **

AEFGJLPUV

Hostal del Cerro

Hosterías ***

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

Los Notros Fax 491816

@ @ @

491159 491419 491271

@

491243 fax

$I $I $I

1 2 1

$I

1

@

491305 fax

$E

2

@

491437

$C

2

Accommodation on Lago Viedma

• Hotel Estancia Punta Lago. Located 34 km west of Tres Lagos directly on the lake. Reservations Buenos Aires: @ (011) 42512000

D Camping

when traveling to the national park to obtain camping and fishing permits here. You can also find out which refugios are open and how to get there. There are maps available but information is not always up to date. Camping is permitted only in designated areas Asociación de Guías de Turismo de Santa Cruz, @ 491762 fax

•

Key to map A C D E H I $ T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Cooperativa Telefónica Calafate Hospital Dirección Municipal de Turismo Banco de la Provincia de Santa Cruz Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 4 5 6 8 13 17 18

Cabañas Nevis Hospedaje Las Cabañitas Hostería Kalkén Hotel A.C.A. El Calafate Hotel Los Alamos Hospedaje Amancay Hotel El Quijote Apart Hotel Paseo del Libertador 19 Hotel El Paso Verlika

El Calafate

20 27 30 31 32 33 37 39 40 41 42 43 45 46

•

Camping Municipal, on both sides of Arroyo Calafate connected by a small walking bridge Camping in the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares When camping and hiking in the national park take plenty of food with you; there is plenty of fresh water. The use of refugios is free, but obtain permission to use them from the Intendencia in Calafate.

Hospedaje Los Lagos Hotel Amado Hotel Kapenke Hotel Upsala Hotel Michelangelo Hospedaje Los Dos Pinos Hospedaje Alejandra Hospedaje Avenida Hospedaje Lago Azul Hospedaje Jorgito Hospedaje Cerro Cristal Hostería La Loma Hospedaje Del Norte Camping Municipal

4 Eating out 2

Cafetería Don Diego de la Noche 3 Restaurant La Rueda 9 Pizzería La Cocina 11 Cafetería Casablanca 14 Pizzería Onelli 16 Restaurant Mi Viejo

554

22 23 24 29 36

Restaurant terminal Pizzería El Hornito Cafetería Rick’s Café Cafetería Pietro’s Café Cafetería Mac Tub

6 Airline offices

34 Líneas Aéreas Kaikén

7 Tour operators and car rental 12 15 25 26 35 38

Nova Terra S.A. Interlagos Turismo Cal Tur El Pingüino Hielo y Aventura Buses Los Glaciares

0 Services 7

Intendencia Parque Nacional Los Glaciares 10 Mercado Artesanal 28 Photography Aonikenk 44 La Burbuja Loca

SANTA CRUZ •

• •

Camping site on Lago Roca, 55 km west

E Eating out Restaurants • A.C.A., 1 de Mayo 50. Grill • El Mirador del Lago, Libertador 2047. Show. International cuisine

& • •

La Rueda, Libertador 1472 La Tablita, Coronel Rosales 24. Parrilla Mi Viejo, Libertador 1111. Parrilla Mio Cid, Gobernador Moyano 1191. International cuisine

Pizzerías • El Hornito, Buenos Aires 155

555

El Calafate

PATAGONIA R Air services from El Calafate

The airport is listed in itineraries as Lago Argentino (not as El Calafate) and is being upgraded. In winter when the weather is bad there are often no flights for several days. Airlines • L.A.D.E., Avenida San Martín 1080 @ 491262 • Kaikén, Avenida Libertador 945 @ 491116 Services • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Comodoro Rivadavia $74.00 Gobernador Gregores $27.00 Perito Moreno $31.00 Puerto San Julián$33.00 Puerto Deseado $40.00 Puerto Madryn $132.00 Río Gallegos $40.00 Río Grande $59.00 Río Turbio $17.00 Ushuaia $83.00

Services

Airline

2 weekly

L.A.D.E.

3 weekly 3 weekly 1 weekly 1 weekly 2 weekly 1–2 daily 1–2 daily 2 weekly 3 weekly

L.A.D.E. L.A.D.E. L.A.D.E. L.A.D.E. Kaikén Kaikén, L.A.D.E. Kaikén, L.A.D.E. L.A.D.E. Kaikén, L.A.D.E.

• El Rancho, Moyano near 9 de Julio • La Cocina, Libertador 1245 & • Onelli, Avenida del Libertador 1197 Confiterías and tea rooms • Casablanca, Avenida Libertador 1202. Pizzas • Don Diego de la Noche, Avenida del Libertador 1605 • Mac Tub, Avenida del Libertador 905. Tea room • Pietro’s Café, Avenida Libertador near Espora. Pizzas • Rick’s Café, Libertador 1097 • Tío Cacho, Gobernador Gregores near 9 de Julio. Disco

•

M Services and facilities

• • • •

The Cancha Carrera border post is open from December to April.

Casino Good Luck, 1 de Mayo; four roulette tables, two black-jack tables

U Motoring

•

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Avenida del Libertador 1133 Telephone: Cooperativa Telefónica Calafate, Espora 194 near Moyano

•

L Financial

Money changing in El Calafate is expensive. • Banco de la Provincia de Santa Cruz, Avenida Libertador 1285.

El Calafate

Hire of bicycles: Sr. Gustav Holzmann, @ 491203. Also organises bicycle trips Hire of horses: El Rancho de la Bahía, J.A. Roca 2063 Photography: Aonikenk, Avenida del Libertador 1024 Sport equipment: La Burbuja Loca, Gobernador Moyano 898

Q Border crossing

n Entertainment •

Lake Travel changes and accepts travelers’ checks

A.C.A., at Hotel A.C.A. El Calafate, gives information about road conditions to Lago Viedma and Gobernador Gregores, and advises on alternative trips using your own vehicle Car rental: Localiza, Gobernador Paradelo 253 @ 491437

Y Shopping

•

556

Mercado Artesanal, Avenida Libertador 1208

SANTA CRUZ S Buses from El Calafate

The bus terminal is on Avenida del Libertador 1100. Bus companies • A19 Bus Sur/Turismo Zaaj, bus terminal @ 491631 • A24 Cal Tur, Avenida Libertador 1080 @ 491842/491117 • A31 Chaltén Travel, bus terminal @ 491033 • A44 Cootra, bus terminal @ 491444 fax • A65 El Pingüino, Avenida Libertador 1025 @ 491273 • A144 Interlagos Turismo, Avenida Libertador 1175 @ 491179/491018 • A195 Quebek Turs, bus terminal local 3 @fax 491843 • A173 Los Glaciares, Avenida Libertador 924 @fax 491158 Long-distance services • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Services Duration Company El Chaltén $25.00 3 daily 5 hrs A24, A31, A173 Glaciar P. Moreno $30.00 4 daily A24, A65, A144, A195 Puerto Natales (Chile) $25.00 1 daily 61 2 hrs A44 Puerto Natales via Cancha Carrera (Chile) $25.00 Tues–Sun 5 hrs A19 Río Gallegos $25.00 3 daily 4 hrs A65, A195, A144 Río Turbio $30.00 1 daily 5 hrs A44 Puerto Natales (Chile) $25.00 2–.-3 daily 6 hrs A19, A44

s Excursions

Some of the excursions listed below are outside the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. See also the entry for Parque Nacional Los Glaciares on page 565 and El Chaltén page 559. Tour operators • Interlagos Turismo, Libertador 1175 @ 491179 fax 491241. Excursions and car rental; daily trips to Glaciar Moreno • Nova Terra S.A., 25 de Mayo 43 @ 491726 • Hielo y Aventura, Avenida Libertador 935 @ 491053 fax • René Fernández Campbell, Avenida del Libertador 867 @ 491155; fax 491154; lake excursions Excursions • Safari Naútico. Lake excursion on Brazo Rico of Lago Argentino to the walls of the Perito Moreno Glaciar. Duration: 1 hour. Fares: $25.00 • Walk on the Perito Moreno Glacier. Cross the lake by launch to the base camp. Tour guides take groups of ten persons on a 20-minute walk onto the

•

557

glacier. Duration 2–3 hours including launch trip. Fares: $65.00. Continuous 10:00–16:00 Launch excursion to Glaciar Upsala, at the extreme western end of Lago Argentino, by bus and boat via Punta Bandera. This excursion is organized by several tour operators. It is a full day’s outing — the boat trip alone takes four hours. Bring your own lunch and sun lotion. The ship usually carries about a hundred passengers, and goes through the Boca del Diablo (“Devil’s Mouth”) into the northern arm of Lago Argentino and into the Canal Upsala. In the off-season smaller boats are used. The first landing is usually at Bahía Onelli and stays for approximately three hours in order to make a short walk up to Lago Onelli, from where you can view Glaciars Onelli and Agassiz. How close you sail to the glacier depends on the captain. The glacier extends into Chile and is part of the 500 km Patagonian ice shield. If you plan to make the trip towards the end of the tourist season, say in April,

El Calafate

PATAGONIA

•

•

•

you may have to arrange your own transport from El Calafate to Punta Bandera. There are no regular buses to Punta Bandera, 51 km away. Tour operators: $90.00 including bus trip to Punta Bandera Lago Roca is located 52 km south west on RP 15. This is a dusty trip as the road is unsealed. The Lago Roca area is ideal for hiking and fishing enthusiasts. It is possible to climb Cerro Cristal. There are also rock paintings. The area is forested, mostly with lengas and ñires and of course calafate bushes with their edible berries. Estancia Nibepo Aike is located 60 km south of El Calafate and has a capacity of 12 beds. This is a sheep and cattle farm located on the lake in a mountainous region; it is in a strategic position to cater for hikers and fishermen. Best time to visit: November–March. Reservations: Sr. Adolfo Jansma, Perito Moreno 229 Casilla Correo 169 Río Gallegos; @ (02966) 422626 Cerro Fitz Roy: 230 km, at the northern end of the park. The road to Lago Viedma has recently been upgraded. At Paso Río La Leona there is a small posada, or gaucho bar, which also offers shared basic accommodation. There is a bridge over the Río La Leona, which drains Lago Viedma. From Estancia San Agustín the road roughly follows the northern edge of the lake for 35 km. Just before crossing the Río Fitzroy there is the ranger station for the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares northern entrance. After crossing the Río Fitz Roy you arrive at El Chaltén. El Chaltén has become a center for adventure tourism. See also El Chaltén on page 559 Glaciar Perito Moreno by minibus from El Calafate. This is a full day’s outing organized by several tour operators. After following the lake shore for 25 km the trip goes up a dirt road through hilly country into the mountains. Take protection against the strong wind which blows all year round, such as a hat and protective skin cream. You arrive for lunch at 12:00 at the A.C.A. tourist complex which overlooks part of the glacier.

El Calafate

•

• •

•

558

For a close view take the trail behind the complex leading along the lake and finishing at the large parking lot. The glacier dips into the lake over a 5 km face and divides Lago Argentino at its narrowest part. The melt-water is prevented from escaping and over a two to three year period rises to more than 30 m. By then the water pressure is so strong that the ice barrier crumbles, and this “breaking” attracts tourists and scientists from all over the globe. The sight of this huge mass of ice is an overwhelming spectacle. Occasionally you can see ice chunks separating to float down the lake as icebergs. No trip to Argentina is complete without seeing this glacier. Buses return to El Calafate at 16:30. Tour operators: $35.00 La Gerónima and Lago Frías: 80 km south. In order to reach this part of the national park you need your own transport as far as Lago Roca, as no regular excursion buses go there. During the summer holidays you may get a lift to the camping spot near Laguna Roca. From there it is a 30 km walk to the Río Frias. Trout and salmon fishing, climbing, and camping are possible Laguna de los Cisnes (”Swan Lake”): Across Arroyo Calafate. This is a bird sanctuary with crimson flamingos Punta Gualichu caves: Approximately 9 km east. The cave is about 2 m deep and 7 m high. The Argentine explorer Perito Moreno sought shelter here after he was shipwrecked in Lago Argentino. The indigenous cave paintings are mostly abstracts with a few painted hands. Vandals have done some damage Parque Nacional Los Glaciares and Parque Nacional Torres del Paine in Chile: A hike combining these neighboring parks is at present possible only with lengthy and exhaustive paperwork at both embassies in your home country, and then only for a large group such as hiking or mountaineering clubs. Should you be able to obtain such a special visa you have to present yourself at the police in Puerto Natales in Chile and again at

SANTA CRUZ the police station in El Calafate. The road to Paso Baguales is not

completed to the border on the Argentine side

EL CHALTÉN

El Chaltén Postal code: 9301 @ area code: (02962) Distance from El Calafate: 213 km north on RN 40 and RP 23

E

l Chaltén is located at the foot of Cerro Fitz Roy in the northern part of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. It has grown within ten years from one hostería to a small village catering for an international clientele of mountain hikers and climbers. It is the starting point into a world of glaciers, high mountains, glacier lakes, and tarns. Only seasoned mountain hikers should attempt long treks. However, experienced guides are available for those with lesser experience — see Excursions below. The national park administration has tourist maps of the area on which the major tracks with the refuges are marked. El Chaltén has good tourist facilities and has regular transport to El Calafate and Río Gallegos.

Lago del Desierto

•

Situated 40 km north of El Chaltén on RP 23, this lake is located outside the national park on the property of Estancia Ricanor. The tourist facilities are located on the southern end of the lake.

• • • •

B Tourist information • •

•

•

•

Comisión de Fomento, @ 493011 Centro de Informes Parques Nacionales is just before crossing the bridge over the Río Fitz Roy into the village @ 493004 Asociación Argentina de Guías de Montaña, Delegación El Chaltén @ 493017. Fees charged: Easy walks: $80.00 per day; trekking guides over more difficult terrain: $110.00 per day; walks over the continental ice shelf: $120–150.00 per day Mercado Artesanal, maps and local guide books, hire of mountain equipment

• •

Albergue Los Ñires, @ 493009 $I 1. Sr. Tomás Fernández is a mountain guide and also has horses for hire Albergue Patagonia, FGL @ 93019 $I 1 Cabañas Cerro Torre, EL @ 493061 $E 4 Casa de Piedra BP @ 493015 $D 4. Sr. Elvio Gaido is also a mountain guide Fitz Roy Inn, Avenida San Martín EFP @ 493062 $H 1. Also doubles as bus terminal Apart Hotel La Aldea ABP @ 493040 $D 5 Posada Poincenot P Rancho Grande E @ 493005

Accommodation Lago del Desierto • Posada Lago del Desierto, EFP @ 493010 or (02966) 422987 Río Gallegos Accommodation on nearby estancias For bookings contact the tourist office either in Río Gallegos or in El Calafate. • Estancia La Maipú. Located on the south side of Lago San Martín, in extremely beautiful surroundings with the lake and the snow-covered peaks of the Andes as a backdrop. Cerro Astillado is the dominant peak • Estancia Helsingfors, reached by boat across Lago Viedma. In a most beautiful setting: the lake and vistas of

C Accommodation

Lodging facilities are geared towards the outdoor enthusiast.

559

El Chaltén

PATAGONIA

•

Ruca Mahuida, E @ 493018; Pablo Cottescu is also a climbing guide @ 493018; English and German spoken Camping on the road to or near Lago del Desierto • Camping y Cabañas Los Troncos. A two hour walk from KM 15 RP 23 towards Piedra del Fraile • Camping Lago del Desierto

Cerro Fitzroy across the lake. They have an office in Río Gallegos

D Camping • • •

Anexo Albergue Los Ñires Anexo Posada Lago del Desierto, BL El Relincho, Sr. Gerardo Gómez is also a mountain guide and has horses for hire

El Chaltén

560

SANTA CRUZ Key to map A C D E F G H I P T

Iglesia Comisión de Fomento Post Office & Telex Telephone Gendarmería (Police) Mercado Municipal First Aid Centro de Informes Parques Nacionales Service stations Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 2 4

Camping El Relincho Rancho Grande

5 6 7 8 9 10 19 20 23

Fitz Roy Inn Posada Poincenot Camping Ruca Mahuida Albergue Patagonia Albergue Los Ñires Posada Lago del Desierto Cabañas Casa de Piedra Apart Hotel La Aldea Cabañas Cerro Torre

4 Eating out

11 Restaurant The Wall 12 Restaurant La Senyera del Torre 16 Restaurant Carrilay Aike

E Eating out • • • •

17 Restaurant Josh Aike

7 Tour operators and car rental 3 Fitzroy Expediciones 22 Launch trips

0 Services 1 13 14 15 18 21

Mercado Artesanal Provisions El Chaltén Provisions Dos de Abril Laundry Car repairs El Charito Bakery

Mountain and climbing guides Besides the owners or operators mentioned under Accommodation and Camping above, there are also the following mountain, climbing and trekking guides: • Marcela Cepernic, mountain guide • Rodolfo Guerra, trekking and mountain guide @ 493020 • Alberto Del Castillo, climbing guide @ 493017; English spoken • Oscar Pandolfi, trekking and mountain guide @ 493016; English spoken Mountain and glacier treks • Access to the glaciers is usually via Paso Marconi 1500 m north of El Chaltén; or Paso del Viento 1550 m south of El Chaltén or via Estancia Cristina. The latter requires a boat cruise on Lago Argentino from Estancia Cristina to Punta Bandera. The entire excursions via the above passes take 6–15 days. The most exciting trip is from Paso Marconi to Estancia Cristina. Only for the hardy and with a mountain or trekking guide • Shorter three-day excursions just to see the ice cap can be made. Always use a guide • A short easy hike up the Río Fitz Roy to Lago Torre, fed by the Fitz Roy glacier and then along the eastern side of this small mountain tarn will give you magnificent views of Cerro Fitz Roy. Beware of sudden forceful gales coming down from the mountain. Further up there is a refugio, but check first with the guardaparque (or park rangers) what state it is in. You can

Restaurant Carrilay Aike $Z Restaurant Josh Aike. Pizzas; also post office Restaurant La Senyera del Torre $Z; also provisions Restaurant The Wall $Z

M Services Provisions • Dos de Abril • El Chaltén

S Buses

The bus terminal is outside Fitz Roy Inn. The road from El Calafate to the intersection of RP 11 with RN 40 is asphalted; RP 11 is a gravel road and so is RP 23 from the junction with RP 11 to El Chaltén. In the main season there are several daily buses from El Calafate run by Empresa Caltur, Los Glaciares and Chaltén Travel. Tourist usually buy a return ticket in El Calafate for $50.00. The trip from El Chaltén to El Calafate takes 4 hrs; there are three services daily. Most return buses to El Calafate leave around 17:00. Chaltén Travel has a daily bus in the tourist season to Lago del Desierto leaving around 08:00, 1 hr traveling time.

s Excursions Tour operators • Chaltén Travel @ 493005 • Fitz Roy Expediciones, Avenida San Martín @ 493017. Sra. Paula Marechal is a trekking and mountain guide

561

El Chaltén

PATAGONIA

•

Roy. A boat ride on the lake takes about two hours and should not be missed. Cost: $25.00. During the boat trip you see Glaciar Huemul. The lake is surrounded by forested mountains up to the snow line. An interesting 2 hrs walk can be made to Laguna Larga which is already on the Chilean border. You may camp anywhere

easily reach Glaciar Cerro Torre in one day, and camp at 2500 m in full view of the glacier in superb Andean scenery Lago del Desierto. Tour operators run 1 bus daily. The 37 km take about one hour going through very scenic countryside, always with vistas of the chain of the Andes. From the lake you see the north-east aspect of Cerro Fitz

GOBERNADOR GREGORES

Gobernador Gregores Population: 2000 Postal code: 9311 @ area code: (02962) Distances From Puerto San Julián: 220 km west on RP 29 • From Puerto Santa Cruz: 228 km north-west on RN 288 then RP 29 • From Tres Lagos: 176 km north-east on RN 40 then RP 29 •

L

ocated in the Río Chico valley, Gobernador Gregores is a typical Patagonian township. It lies in a sheltered position in the river valley, with dusty unsealed streets and sidewalks. The town is almost deserted in winter, when many of the townsfolk shut up their houses and travel north to escape the climate.

U Motoring

All roads in the area are unsealed and transport is sometimes unreliable in winter. There is a modern agricultural college, and a salmon cannery.

Just outside Gobernador Gregores the road links up with RN 40, which here is nothing more than a dirt track. On the way north there is a gaucho hotel at Riera and another at Las Horquetas. At Las Horquetas is the turn-off to Parque Nacional Francisco Perito Moreno. A narrow bridge crosses the Río Olnie; here there is a small country inn. • Service station: Y.P.F.

A Festivals •

Foundation day: 3rd week in March

B Tourist information •

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Avenida San Martín 409 @ 491180

s Excursions

•

C Accommodation

B Hostería Cañadón León, Roca 397 L @ 491082 $G 2 B Hostería San Francisco, San Martín 463 L @ 491039 $G 2. Open all year round

E Eating out • •

Restaurant Cañadón León Bar El Ultimo Gaucho

Gobernador Gregores

562

Lago Cardiel: Located 65 km east on RN 40, and the home of delicious salmon. The lake has no visible outlet. In April the local fishing club sponsors a competition which attracts large numbers of anglers. Because the water is slightly salty there are no trout. Estancia La Angostura is located 45 km east of Lago Cardiel near the intersection of RP 29 with RN 40. It has a capacity of 25 beds. Best time to visit is October–March. You need

SANTA CRUZ R Air services from Gobernador Gregores Airlines • L.A.D.E., Colón 544 @ 491008 fax; e-mail: [email protected] Services • • • • • •

Destination Fare Comodoro Rivadavia $47.00 Lago Argentino $27.00 Puerto Deseado $40.00 Puerto San Julián$22.00 Río Gallegos $39.00 Río Turbio $39.00

Services

Hours

2 weekly 3 weekly 1 weekly 1 weekly 3 weekly 1 weekly

L.A.D.E. L.A.D.E. L.A.D.E. L.A.D.E. L.A.D.E. L.A.D.E.

your own transport or arrange pickup from Gobernador Gregores. Reservations: Sr. Kusanovic @ (02962) 42010; fax (02962) 42269 Parque Nacional Francisco Perito Moreno, Lago Belgrano, and Lago Escondido: The area is home to numerous herds of guanacos and ñandus. You can only reach the park with your own vehicle. The nearest bus stop is at Las Horquetas, where there is a small gaucho hotel and restaurant, 90 km from the entrance to the park. The national park measures 118 000 ha (291 580 acres) and runs along the Chilean border. This park is off the beaten track and few tourists venture there. The park ranger speaks English. Going east the rain decreases; the dense forests on the slopes of the Andes become open grassland and then open out into steppe. Huemules, condors, pumas, flamingos and cauquenes geese inhabit the park. Some caves near Lago

•

Airline

•

Burmeister contain paintings left by the nomadic Tehuelche Indians which inhabited the area before the advent of the Spanish. Although not inside the national park but in an adjoining reserve, Cerro San Lorenzo dominates the landscape with its 3706 m, the highest mountain in Santa Cruz Province. Estancia La Oriental, an estancia turística, is located on the north side of Lago Belgrano some 81 km west of RN 40. It has 12 beds. To reach the park you need your own transport or arrange pickup from Gobernador Gregores or Hipolito Irigoyen. The best time to visit is November–March. Reservations: Manuel Lada, Rivadavia 936 @ (02962)42196, fax (02962)42235 Puerto San Julián Bajo Caracoles and Lago Posadas: The trip from Gobernador Gregores to Bajo Caracoles is more varied than the rather dull trip from the coast to Gobernador Gregores. En route the

S Buses from Gobernador Gregores Bus companies • A58 El Greko, San Martín 562 @ 491217 fax • A204 Servicios 2000, San Martín 463 @ 491039 • A230 Transporte Cerro San Lorenzo, San Martín near Alberdí Long-distance services • • •

Destination Fare Services Comandante Luis Piedra Buena $16.00 4 weeky Puerto to San Julián $17.00 5 weekly Río Gallegos $32.00 5 weekly

Duration

Company A58

4 hrs 6 hrs

563

A204, A230 A58

Gobernador Gregores

PATAGONIA and returns next morning via Bajo Caracoles to Puerto San Julián on the coast

bus stops at Tamal Aike (where there is a police station), Hotel Las Horquetas, and Río Olnie, where there is an inn. The bus terminates at Lago Posadas, where there is a hotel,

LOS ANTIGUOS

Los Antiguos Postal code: 0941 @ area code: (02963) Distances From Chile Chico (Chile): 8 km east on RP 43 • From Perito Moreno: 60 km west on RP 43 •

L

ocated on the Río Los Antiguos, on the south side of Lago Buenos Aires, Los Antiguos is surrounded to the south and west by high mountains in a picturesque setting. The climate is mellowed by the influence of the lake. Because of the benign climate this is orchard country: at first are berry fruits followed by apples, pears, and apricots.

E Eating out

It is a major border crossing to Chile Chico in Chile. The tourist activities include hiking in the pre-cordillera, and fishing in mountain streams and the lake.

•

Q Border crossing

The Argentine border post is about 1 km west from the town. From here onwards the road is a track leading through the wide river bed. If using your own vehicle, be sure to follow somebody who knows the route through the river. The Chilean immigration post is on the other side of the river.

A Festivals •

Fiesta Nacional de la Cereza (Cherry picking festival): 1st week in January

B Tourist information •

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Avenida 11 de Julio @ 491264

s Excursions

•

C Accommodation

A Hotel Argentino, Avenida 11 de Julio AEFP @ 491132 $D 2 C Complejo Turístico Lago Buenos Aires, lot 70 on lake shore @ 491314 $D 3 • Estancia La Serena. Located 29 km west of Perito Moreno 5 km south of Lago Argentino in the pre-cordillera. It is an estancia turística with 18 beds. Activities include fishing, horse riding, hiking in the cordillera; trips to Cueva de las Manos and other archeological sites are organized. Best time to visit: October–April. Reservations: Sra. Geraldine des Cressonnieres de Decker, Casilla Correo 87 Perito Moreno (9040) Los Antiguos

Cafetería Populos, Avenida 11 de Julio

•

564

Monte Zeballos is located 50 km south. This 900 ha (2225 acre) area is covered on the lower hill sides with Patagonian Andean forest Chile Chico is the first town in Chile. From there a twice-weekly ferry goes across Lago General Carrera (Lago Argentino in Argentina) to Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez, where you can board the waiting bus for Coihaique. Ferry services on the lake have been scaled down as a new road along the south side of Lago General Carrerra connects with the Chilean Panamericana; regular buses ply now on this road between Chile Chico and Coyhaique. This is a very scenic bus trip; see also the companion volume

SANTA CRUZ Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island “Region XI de Aisén”

PARQUE NACIONAL FRANCISCO PERITO MORENO Parque Nacional Perito Moreno

T

his national park is located in the north-western part of the province and adjoins in the north Reserva Provincial San Lorenzo. This is an area of high mountains, forests, and lakes. Indeed there are eight lakes which are interconnected and form the headwaters of the Río Belgrano. The Río Belgrano becomes the Río Chico ending its course in the Río Santa Cruz estuary. The following lakes are inside the national park and national reserve: Lago Mogote, Lago Península, Lago Azara, Lago Volcán, Lago Escondido, Lago Belgrano, Lago Nansen, and Lago Burmeister; all teeming with fish. This is the domain of the sport fisherman and mountain hikers. Because of the difficulty of access and the lack of tourist facilities, there are few tourists here. It is best accessed from Gobernador Gregores. At the park entrance it is necessary to register with the national park attendant.

• •

Activities include rafting on the Río Mayer, visit to glaciers, fishing Estancia La Oriental. Located inside the national park Estancia El Suyai. Located on Lago Pueyrredón (Lago Cochrane in Chile). The national park is some distance to the south but the area could well be part of the national park because of its natural beauty. Owners will pick you up in Bajo Caracoles or in Perito Moreno

D Camping

The only camping ground with some facilities is on Lago Burmeister, 16 km west of the caretaker. Camping is permitted anywhere.

C Accommodation

a Excursions

The best option is staying on a hacienda in the area. The tourist office in Río Gallegos can advise you. I have listed three haciendas in the area which have opened their farms to ecotourism. • Estancia Alma Gaucha. Located some distance south of the national park.

The national parks administration has made a few trails inviting for easy half day walks. From the camping ground within easy walking distance are Lago Burmeister, El Rincón, and Lago Volcán.

PARQUE NACIONAL LOS GLACIARES

Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

T

he Parque Nacional Los Glaciares is located in the extreme west of Santa Cruz Province along the cordillera and borders Chile. The length of the park is 350 km and the width varies between 40 and 60 km. It covers an area of 565

Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

PATAGONIA 600 000 ha (1 482 620 acres) with 47 glaciers and many lakes. It is the major tourist attraction of the province and perhaps of Argentina itself. Owing to its natural beauty and unique flora and fauna it has been declared a world heritage area. El Calafate, some 80 km east from the southern entrance to the national park, is the gateway to the national park and a major tourist center. The main attractions in the southern section are Glaciar Perito Moreno, Glaciar Upsala, and Lago Argentino, with its many arms extending far into the high sierra. In the northern section Lago Viedma and the peaks of Cerro Fitz Roy at 2275 m are a major attraction for hikers and climbers. Rare and endangered animals can be found here, such as the huemul (the South American deer) and the pudu (dwarf deer), which grows only 40 cm high. The condor and various species of eagles can also be seen. The rivers abound with trout and salmon, which makes this area a paradise for anglers. Rafting is also possible.

Lago Torre, and Glaciar Viedma. Provisions can be obtained in El Chaitén, but it is cheaper to bring your own from either Río Gallegos or El Calafate. This northern part of the national park is 220 km north of El Calafate and 122 km east of Tres Lagos; Tres Lagos has a gas pump but no accommodation. From El Calafate take RP 11 for 33 km east to the junction with RN 40, and then turn north into RN 40 at the intersection which crosses the Río Santa Cruz and cross a second bridge over the Río La Leona some 15 km further along. Follow the Río Leona due north for 53 km until you reach Paso Río La Leona. Just before the bridge the Hostería Paso Río Leona is on the right; it has shared accommodation and c a f e t e r í a -c u m - c o u n t r y i n n a t m osphere—local gaucho characters indulge in their drinking bouts here. After crossing the bridge continue on RN 40 to the intersection with RP 22. Follow RP 23 for 88 km due west along the northern rim of Lago Viedma until you reach El Chaltén.

C Accommodation

For accommodation see Accommodation in El Calafate on page 553 and in El Chaltén on page 559.

See also Excursions from El Calafate on page 557.

s Excursions

El Chaltén is the starting point for excursions into the Cerro Fitz Roy area, including Cerro Fitz Roy, Glaciar Cerro Torre,

PERITO MORENO

Perito Moreno Population: 3000 Postal code: 9040 Altitude: 400 m @ area code: (02963) Distances • From Caleta Olivia: 305 km west on RP 501 then RP 43 • From Los Antiguos (on the Chilean border): 60 km east on RP 43 • From Río Mayo: 123 km south on RN 40 • From Tres Lagos: 455 km north on RN 40

P

erito Moreno is located near Lago Buenos Aires, which crosses the border into Chile where it is called Lago General Carrera. To the south are Lago

Perito Moreno

566

SANTA CRUZ S Buses from Perito Moreno

There is no central bus terminal. There are no regular bus services north to Río Mayo (RN 40). Services south to Bajo Caracoles (RN 40) and to the Río de las Pinturas are only in summer. Hitchhiking is difficult outside the tourist season, December to March. Bus companies • A163 La Unión, Belgrano 1565 @ 432133 • A208 Sportman, San Martín 1327 @ 432074 • A230 Transporte Cerro San Lorenzo, Belgrano 1565 @ 432133 ° Puerto San Julián via Bajo Caracoles and Gobernador Gregores ($35.00); 1 weekly in summer only. Services • Comodoro Rivadavia ($17.00) via Las Heras ($9.00), Pico Truncado ($12.00), and Caleta Olivia ($15.00); 4 daily • Los Antiguos on the Chilean border($3.00); 4 daily

Belgrano and Lago Burmeister. Although the town is located in Santa Cruz Province it is better served by buses from Comodoro Rivadavia in Chubut Province.

A Festivals •

•

Foundation day: 7th December

•

B Tourist information •

•

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Avenida San Martín 1222 fax 432020. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–20:00 and every day in holiday season

•

I Post and telegraph

C Accommodation

•

Some hotels are only open between December and April. * Hotel Austral, Avenida San Martín 1381 AEFPV @ 432042 $G 2 * Hotel Belgrano, Avenida San Martín 1001 AELPV @ 432019 $G/H 2 432235 fax * Hotel Santa Cruz, Belgrano 1565 AELPV $J 1 A Hospedaje Americano, Avenida San Martín 1327 LP @ 432074 $G 2 A Hospedaje Posada del Caminante, Rivadavia 937 LP Fax 432202 @ 432204 $G 2

Airlines • L.A.D.E., San Martín 1207 @ 432055 Services • • •

Parque Laguna, near the center of town, also serves as an offshoot of the tourist office. Cabins available

• • • • • •

E Eating out • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, J.D.Perón 1331

R Air services from Perito Moreno

D Camping •

Pizzería Pipach III, Avenida San Martín 990 Cafetería Brujas, Avenida J.D. Perón 1289. Bar Cafetería Black Cat, Avenida Rivadavia 1578. Bar Cafetería Marnos, Rivadavia near 9 de Julio. Dancing

Restaurant El Americano, Avenida San Martín 1327 Restaurant El Cisne, Sarmiento 1246 567

Destination Fare Caleta Olivia Comodoro Rivadavia $69.00 Gobernador Gregores $31.00 Lago Argentino $52.00 Río Gallegos $69.00 Río Grande $100.00 Río Mayo Trelew Ushuaia $113.00

Services 2 weekly 2 weekly 2 weekly 2 weekly 2 weekly 1 weekly 2 weekly 2 weekly 1 weekly

Perito Moreno

PATAGONIA

•

M Services

Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, 9 de Julio 1514 near Rivadavia

•

L Financial

U Motoring

US dollars can be exchanged at the Hotel Austral and at the Hotel Belgrano. • Banco de la Provincia de Santa Cruz, Avenida San Martín 1493 @ 432028

Perito Moreno

Photography: Natural, Rivadavia 937

There are four service stations and gas stations in town including an auto electrician. RN 40 north and south is unsealed and is rough going. 568

SANTA CRUZ Key to map D E H I $

Correo Argentino Telefónica de Argentina Hospital Dirección Municipal de Turismo Banco de la Provincia de Santa Cruz

3 Accommodation 3

Hotel Argentino

4 6 8 10 12

Hotel Santa Cruz Hotel Austral Hospedaje Americano Camping Parque Laguna Hotel Belgrano Cafetería Brujas Cafetería Black Cat Restaurant El Cisne

•

RP 43 to Los Antiguos on the Chilean border has been extensively upgraded. • Service station: A.C.A., 9 de Julio near Rivadavia

•

s Excursions Tour operators • Matus, Almte Brown 1871 @ 432477 • Transporte Municipal @ 432121. In the summer months it runs a bus once a week to Cueva de las Manos Excursions • Lago Buenos Aires: 25 km west. This huge sheet of water moderates the climate of the area: the closer to the lake the greener the countryside becomes. The lake is surrounded by high mountains but opens onto undulating country in the eastern or Argentine section. These mountains also form the border between the two countries. The road is sealed, and the views are magnificent. Most cultivated fields are strips of 100 m by 300 m bordered by willow trees. Estancia Las Chilcas 30 km west has an archeological site with prehistoric cave paintings

6 Airline offices

1 Línea Aérea El Pingüino 11 L.A.D.E.

0 Services

4 Eating out 2 5 9

13 Pizzería Pipach III

•

•

4 7

Buses La Unión and Cerro San Lorenzo Coop Sportman

Los Antiguos: 67 km west on RP 43, on Lago Buenos Aires. Orchards and pejerrey fishing. See Los Antiguos on page 564 Cerro El Volcán: On leaving Perito Moreno southward take the first dirt road on your left after the police station. From here it is a 15 km walk to the crater, which is on private property Cueva de las Manos (“Cave of the Hands”): 124 km south, on the Río Pinturas. Turn off into the canyon 4 km north of Bajo Caracoles, and travel north-east on a dirt road. The paintings of human hands and animals inside the caves are said to be 10 000 years old. The drive through the canyon is very picturesque. For public transport check with the tourist office. During January/February the council runs a tourist bus to the caves Chile Chico and on to Coihaique in Chile: Take the bus to Los Antiguos. See the companion volume Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island “Region XI de Aisén”

PUERTO DESEADO

Puerto Deseado Population: 7000 Postal code: 9050 Altitude: Sea-level @ area code: (0297) Distance from Comodoro Rivadavia: 270 km south-east on RN 3 then RN 281

P

uerto Deseado is at the mouth of the Río Deseado, which drains Lago Buenos Aires. Access to the town from the RN 3 turnoff is sealed. The Spanish colonial settlement was abandoned due to persistent Indian attacks. The mod569

Puerto Deseado

PATAGONIA ern town was founded in 1884, and the harbor can accommodate ocean-going vessels. The streets have many of the original buildings still intact such as the Estación Ferrocarril Patagónico, and the building of the Sociedad Española. There are panoramic views from here over the Bahía Uruguay and the Atlantic Ocean. Many of the seaside national reserves are near Puerto Deseado.

A Festivals •

•

Festival Patagónico de Jineteada: 1st fortnight in February. Gaucho festival, horse riding skills

I Post and telegraph

•

B Tourist information •

•

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Colón near Belgrano @ 4870220 fax

D Camping •

Jackaroo, Mariano Moreno 633. Dancing Post office: Correo Argentino, San Martín 1075 Telephone: Telefónica Deseado, Almte Brown 544

L Financial

•

Camping Municipal La Costanera, Avenida Marcelo Lotufo, $J per tent. On the seashore

Banco de la Provincia de Santa Cruz, Don Bosco 1014 @ 472175

S Buses

E Eating out

• •

Restaurants • El Pingüino, Piedra Buena 958. Parrilla • El Viejo Marino, Pueyrredón 224. Seafood Pizzerías • Americana, San Martín 1350 • El Petrolero, San Martín 1294 • La Balsa, 12 de Octubre 641 • Pronto Pizza, Don Bosco 1055 Cafeterías • Freeman Pub, San Martín 1245. Bar • Mary, Don Bosco 1056. Bar

•

La Unión, San Martín 1259 Caleta Olivia ($15.00; 4 hrs); 07:00, 15:00; 2 daily Comodoro Rivadavia ($19.00; 51 2 hrs); 07:00, 15:00; 2 daily

U Motoring

The turnoff to Puerto Deseado is 8 km south of Fitz Roy. RN 281 is sealed all the way from the junction with RN 3, to Puerto Deseado. There are two gas stations and six mechanical repair shops including an auto electrician.

C Accommodation in Puerto Deseado Hosterías ** *

Los Acantilados, Espora 1611 Fax 4872070 Oneto, Dr Fernández Oneto

AEFGJLPUV AELPV

@ @

4872167 4870455

$F $G

2 2

@

4870476

$F

2

@

4870077

$G

2

@ @ @

4870304 4870522 4872350

$G $G $G

2 2 2

Hotels **

Isla Chaffers, San Martín near Moreno Fax 4872246 AEFGJLPUV

Residenciales

A Los Olmos, Gdor Gregores 849 A Turístico Colón, Almte Brown 450 Open only Dec–March A Sur I, Ameghino 1640 A Sur II, Pueyrredón 367

Puerto Deseado

LP LP LP LP

570

SANTA CRUZ

Key to map D E H I $ T

Correo Argentino Telefónica Deseado Hospital Dirección Municipal de Turismo Money exchange Buses La Unión

3 Accommodation 8 15 17 18

Residencial Los Olmos Residencial Sur I Hotel Isla Chaffers Residencial Turístico Colón 20 Residencial Sur II 22 Hostería Los Acantilados

23 Albergue Juvenil Municipal 24 Camping Municipal La Costanera

6 Airline offices

4 Eating out

1 6

2 4 5 7 10 11 13 16 21

Restaurant El Pingüino Cafetería Jackaroo Pizzería Pronto Pizza Pizzería La Balsa Pizzería Americana Pizzería El Petrolero Cafetería Mary Cafetería Freeman Pub Restaurant El Viejo Marino

571

9

L.A.D.E., TAN

7 Tour operators and car rental Almafuerte Travel Hito 45

9 Sights

12 Sociedad Española 19 Vagón Histórico

0 Services

3 Mateo Tafra 14 Herta Amelung

Puerto Deseado

PATAGONIA R Air services from Puerto Deseado Airlines • L.A.D.E., TAN, Don Bosco 1580 @ 4871204 fax; e- mail: [email protected] Services • • • • • •

Destination Fare Comodoro Rivadavia $30.00 Gobernador Gregores $40.00 Perito Moreno $40.00 Puerto San Julián$26.00 Río Gallegos $59.00 Río Turbio $59.00

Services

Hours Airline 11 4 L.A.D.E., TAN

2 weekly 1 weekly 1 weekly 1 weekly 1 weekly 1 weekly

2 L.A.D.E. L.A.D.E. 1 L.A.D.E. 6 L.A.D.E. 5 L.A.D.E.

Y Shopping • • • •

s Excursions

Herta Amelung, Pueyrredón 437 Mabel Urricelqui, Sgto Cabral 1451. Plush Mateo Tafra, Pueyrredón 660. Skins Talleres Municipales de Cerámica, Ameghino. China and ceramics

Tour operators • Almafuerte Travel, Belgrano 754 @ 4872680 @ 4870231; Sr. Ruben Paz Excursions • Cañadón de las Bandurrias: This cañon of volcanic origin is 3 km west of RN 281 on the outskirts of town. The 40 meter high “grotto of Lourdes” attracts many devout pilgrims • Reserva Natural Ría del Deseado is located in the estuary of the Río Deseado and includes several small islands such as Isla de los Pájaros, Isla Chaffers, and Bahía Uruguay: Launch trips to Isla de los Pájaros, where there is a penguin colony, and a colony of elephant seals and to Bahía Uruguay, where the unique gray cormorant can be seen on the islands

a Sport

Fishing is excellent along the coast and in the Bahía Uruguay, which is the mouth of the Río Deseado. • Fishing: Club Capitán Oneto, Muelle de Ramón

p Sightseeing •

Museo Regional de Puerto Deseado, Don Bosco near 12 de Octubre in the Colegio Salesiano “San José”. A large collection of archeological pieces including spear tips; also fossils

PUERTO SAN JULIÁN

Puerto San Julián Population: 5200 Postal code: 9310 @ area code: (02962) Distances • From Río Gallegos: 336 km north on RN 3 • From Comodoro Rivadavia: 420 km south on RN 3 • From Gobernador Gregores: 210 km east on RP 25

T

he first Christian mass in Argentina was held here when Magellan landed and executed a member of his crew. The spot, situated on a little island at

Puerto San Julián

572

SANTA CRUZ the entrance to the bay, is nowadays known as “Banco Justicia” (“Justice Bank”). Sir Francis Drake also executed one of his crew here. The first attempt to found a town Puerto San Julián is commonly here was made by Antonio de known simply as “San Julián”. Viedma in 1780: he called it Colonia B Tourist information de Florida Blanca. It was abandoned • Dirección Municipal de Turismo, San in 1784—its ruins are 10 km west Martín 581 1st floor @ 452871 fax near the airport. Puerto San Julián 452076. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–15:00. was founded in 1901 and is situated Also on RN 3 at the junction with San Martín on the Bahía San Julián. It is halfway between Comodoro Rivadavia Camping and Río Gallegos, and has good fa- & •D Autocamping Municipal, Costanera cilities for breaking the monotonous between Moreno and Roca @ 452160 $J journey through Patagonia. There is 1, $J per car. Very clean, with telephone and all facilities wildlife in the area such as guanacos, red and gray foxes, and ñandus. The E Eating out hinterland is used for sheep raising. Restaurants Canning fish and kaolin production • Avenida, Avenida San Martín 1357 are other sources of income. • Cantina Muelle Viejo, 9 de Julio near Good beaches are north of the Mitre town such as Playa Tumba Sholl, Playa de los Caracoles. Visits by boat to offshore islands with plenty of marine and birdlife are organised.

Key to map A D E I

Iglesia Correo Argentino Telephone Dirección Municipal de Turismo

3 Accommodation 4 5 6 10 12

Residencial Sada Hotel Bahía Autocamping Municipal Residencial Gran Colón Hotel Municipal de Turismo

4 Eating out 1 7 9 14

Restaurant Avenida Restaurant El Aguila Restaurant Sportsman Restaurant Cantina Muelle Viejo

6 Airline offices 2

L.A.D.E.

9 Sights

13 Museo Regional

0 Services

3 Transporte Cerro San Lorenzo 8 Buses Turis Santa Cruz 11 Buses Servicios 2000

573

Puerto San Julián

PATAGONIA C Accommodation in Puerto San Julián Hotels *** **

Bahía, Avenida San Martín 1075 Fax 453145 Municipal de Turismo, 25 de Mayo 970 AEFGJLPUV

Residenciales

A El Alamo, RN 3 A Gran Colón, San Martín 301 A Sada, San Martín 1112 LP Fax 452458

LP LP

@

453143

$E/F

2

@

452300 fax

$G

2

@

452946

$G $I

2 1

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452013

$G

2

Accommodation outside Puerto San Julián

• Estancia La María, RP 77 150 km north-west of town. Located in the central meseta. Of interest to archeological buffs as there are several stone age archeological sites on the property. Reservation: Sr. Behm Fernando Raúl, Saavedra 1168 Puerto San Julián @ (02962)42328 fax

• • • •

RP 25 west to Gobernador Gregores is unsealed from the turn-off just outside town. • Service station: Y.P.F., Piedra Buena near San Martín

El Águila, Avenida San Martín 525 La Biela, Avenida San Martín. Parrilla La Rural, Ameghino 1071 Sportsman, Mitre 311 near 25 de Mayo • Stop, Ameghino 811 Cafeterías • Long Drink Pub, Avenida Costanera. Bar • Kreisky Disco, Zeballos 1038. Dancing • Surmenage Discotheque, El Cano near Urquiza. Dancing

# Water transport

• •

Y Shopping

•

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Belgrano near San Martín Telephone: Moreno block 600 (corner of Mitre)

Fishing in the Bahía San Julián requires a fishing permit. Fishing is good all year round but least good in winter. The fish encountered mostly are robalo (Eleginus maclovinus), up to 50 cm long and weighing up to 8 kg with delicious flesh; and pejerrey in summer only. Punta Caldera is a popular fishing spot.

Banco de la Provincia de Santa Cruz, San Martín near Moreno @ 452340

M Services and facilities •

Hospital: Costanera between Roca and Magallanes

p Sightseeing

•

U Motoring

RN 3 southward is sealed in places. It crosses the Río Chico (which originates in the Parque Nacional Francisco Perito Moreno) 90 km south of Puerto San Julián. The Río Chico valley is about 4 km wide.

Puerto San Julián

Centro Artesanal, Moreno 1073; open daily 09:00–12:00 and 14:00–18:00

a Sport

L Financial •

Visit to Isla de los Pingüinos and Isla Banco Justicia: $15.00 Visit to Isla de los Pigüinos , Banco Justicia, and Lobería: $40.00

574

Museo Regional (Regional Museum), including the Museo Arte Marino (Museum of Marine Art), 9 de Julio near Mitre. Located in a building constructed in 1925. Represented are archeological and paleontological items; also paintings. Open daily 08:00–18:00; admission free

SANTA CRUZ S Buses from Puerto San Julián Bus companies operating from the terminal The bus terminal is on Vieyetes near Rivadavia @ 452082. • A65 El Pingüino • A81 Empresa Andesmar • A195 Quebek tours • A211 T.A.C. • A221 Transportadora Patagónica Don Otto @ 452082 Bus companies with own terminal • A18 Burmeister, Ameghino 1061 • A204 Servicios 2000, Ameghino 937 • A210 Sur Servicios, San Martín • A230 Transporte Cerro San Lorenzo, Berutti 970 @fax 452403 • A246 Turis Santa Cruz, San Martín 440 @ 452086 Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Services Duration Bajo Caracoles $37.00 Tues Buenos Aires 3 daily Caleta Olivia $8.00 1–2 daily Comandante Luis Piedra Buena $9.00 2–3 daily 11 2 hrs Comodoro Rivadavia $10.00 2–3 daily 7 hrs Córdoba Mon, Wed, Fri Gobernador Gregores Tues, Thurs, Sat, Sun $17.00 4 hrs Lago Posadas $45.00 Tues Mendoza 1 daily Río Gallegos $19.00 4–5 daily 4 hrs

s Excursions Tour operators • Tur aike Turismo, Ave. San Martín 446/1 @ 452086 fax Excursions • Reserva Bahía y Península San Julián: Within easy walking distance from the town there are colonies of penguins. However it is better to view the rocky coast from a boat • Estancia La María: 150 km north-west on a private property. On this estancia important stone-age rock paintings have been found. Again the preoccupation of these long extinct tribes with painted hands is obvious. There are two sites: Maria Bajo with nine large caves located in a glen and María Quebrada with many smaller caves along the rock walls. The paintings consist of several colors and depict hunting scenes, animals and

•

•

575

Company A230 A65, A211, A221 A195, A210 A18, A195, A246 A65, A195, A210 A195 A204, A230 A230 A81 A18, A65, A195, A246

figures. Accommodation and tours of the archeological sites by the owners. See Accommodation above Trip to Gobernador Gregores: About an hour along the road there is a country inn Hotel Bella Vista. It is mostly flat, windswept, Patagonian meseta country. Along the road small flocks of ñandus or rheas can be seen, as well as the mara or Patagonian hare. Shortly before Gobernador Gregores the road enters the wide valley of the Río Chico. The inhabitants of Patagonia grow hedges and lines of trees to protect them against the continual harsh winds. As you wind down into the valley you get a good view of Gobernador Gregores. Regular buses. See also Gobernador Gregores on page 562 Florida Blanca: 10 km. The ruins of a colony founded in 1780 by Antonio Viedma. Arrange your trip with a

Puerto San Julián

PATAGONIA •

•

guide from the tourist office in the center strip of San Martín near the taxi stand Cabo Curioso: 18 km north. A beach with an attractive natural cave. There is camping here, but facilities are poor

Islas de los Pingüinos: For excursions by launch to this island (whose name means “Penguin Island”) contact the tourist office — see “Tourist information” above

PUERTO SANTA CRUZ

Puerto Santa Cruz Population: 3000 Postal code: 9300 Altitude: Sea-level @ area code: (02962) Distances From Río Gallegos: 260 km north on RN 3 • From Comodoro Rivadavia: 524 km south on RN 3 •

L

ocated 25 km east of RN 3 at the mouth of the Río Santa Cruz, which has its source in Lago Argentino, Puerto Santa Cruz was founded in 1878 and was the provincial capital until 1904.

R Air services

It has one of the best harbors in the south, well protected from the fierce Patagonian winds. Punta Quilla, 22 km further downstream, is now a growing deep-water port. The main shopping street is Avenida Roca. Puerto Santa Cruz is commonly known simply as “Santa Cruz”. Of interest is a small penguin colony at the entrance to the harbor and Isla Monte León.

•

L.A.D.E., Moreno near 9 de Julio, @ 498680. Web site: www.lade.com.ar L.A.D.E. runs a service to Río Gallegos on Thursdays.

S Buses

• •

s Excursions

•

A Festivals •

Foundation day: 6th December

C Accommodation **

•

Hostería Municipal, 25 de Mayo 645 AEFGJLPUV @ 498202 fax $G 2 Residencial Anel Aike, San Martín 69 @ 498206

Puerto Santa Cruz

Comodoro Rivadavia ($21.00); 2 daily; Andesmar, El Pingüino Río Gallegos ($12.50, 3 hrs); 2 daily; Andesmar, El Pingüino

576

Isla Monte León: 70 km south on RN 288 then RN 3. Turn east 18 km past the junction of RN 288 with RN 3 onto a dirt track. There are walruses and penguins, good beaches, fishing; the tourist facilities are being upgraded and include barbecue facilities, camping facilities, and toilets. Also observation areas. Drinking water is provided by large tanks

SANTA CRUZ

RÍO GALLEGOS

Río Gallegos Population: 65 000 Postal code: 9400 @ area code: (02966) Distances From Comodoro Rivadavia: 759 km south on RN 3 • From El Calafate: 319 km south-east on RP 5, RN 40 and RP 11 • From Puerto Natales (Chile): 258 km east on RN 40 • From Punta Arenas (Chile): 242 km north on RN 255 then RN 3 •

R

ío Gallegos is the capital of Santa Cruz Province and is located on the estuary of the Río Gallegos. It was founded in 1885. The town is an important center for transport to El Calafate and Ushuaia, and to Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales in Chile. During spring, waves on the river coming in from the Atlantic may run as high as 16 m. Coal shipments from the Río Turbio mine are now shipped via the new

deep-water facility at Punta Loyola. The town’s economic foundation

C Accommodation in Río Gallegos

There is a shortage of accommodation, especially in the lower price range, because of free spending by oil crews. Hotel prices rise in January and February. Apart hotels • Costa Río, Ave. San Martín 673

Hotels *** *** *** ** ** ** * * *

Comercio, Roca 1302 ACDEFGHKLPTUV Fax 422458 Costa Río, Avenida San Martín 673 ACDEFGHKLPTUV Fax 421108 Santa Cruz, Avenida Roca near C. Rivadavia Fax 420603 ACDEFGHKLPTUV Alonso, Corrientes 33 AEFGJLPUV Fax 421237 Croacia, Urquiza 431 AEFGJLPUV Fax 422997 Oviedo, Libertad 746 AEFGJLPUV Liporace, L. de la Torre 255 AELPV Los Navegantes, Lavalle 945 AELPV Nevada, Zapiola 480 AELPV

Residenciales &

A Cabo Virgenes, Rivadavia 256 A Covadonga, Roca 1244 Fax 421237 A Paris, Roca 1040 A Punta Arenas, Sphur 55 B Ampuero, Sphur 18 B Colonial, Rivadavia near Urquiza B Viejo Lafuente, Sarsfield 64 C Pensión El Gaucho, Zapiola 627 • Esmeralda, Zapiola 636

LP LP LP LP L L L

577

@

423412 fax

@

420209

$E

2

@

423412

$D

2

@

420601

$E

2

@

422414

$F

2

@ @ @ @ @

421218 420118 421937 430174 425990 fax

$F $F $G $G $G

2 2 2 2 2

@

422134

$H

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420190 420111 422743 422189 422329 420304 422166

$G $G $/F $H $H $I $J $J

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Río Gallegos

PATAGONIA Key to map A C D E H I $ T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica Argentina Hospital Subsecretaría de Turismo Provincial Sur Cambio Bus terminals

3 Accommodation 1 5 7 8 9 10 13 15 16 19 25 27 36 41 55 56

Hotel Liporace Hotel Oviedo Hotel Alonso Residencial Esmeralda Pensión El Gaucho Residencial Ampuero Residencial Punta Arenas Hotel Croacia Hotel Nevada Hotel Comercio Residencial Covadonga Residencial Viejo Lafuente Residencial Paris Hotel Costa Río Hotel Santa Cruz Residencial Cabo Virgenes

4 Eating out 6

11 20 21 22 26 28 29 30 31 35 37 43 44 47 48 49 50 51

Pub Isidoro Fast food 18 Horas Restaurant La Bella Nápoli Restaurant El Ancla Restaurant Cosa Nostra Restaurant Díaz Restaurant El Dragón Restaurant Lo de Córdoba Tearoom Casa de Campo Restaurant Bifería La Vasca Restaurant La Cantina Restaurant Club Británico Cafetería Pinda’s Café the Friends Restaurant Tennis Club Pizzería Pietro Restaurant Club Español El Horreo Pizzería Don Bartolo Pub Don Emilio

5 Entertainment 14 23 24 42 52

Dancing Burbujas Dancing El Templo Dancing Oásis Casino Interworld Dancing Suburbios

38 Localiza 53 Cygnus Travel/Buses Burmeister

9 Sights 2 4

Museo Regional Padre Manuel Jésus Molina Museo de los Pioneros

0 Services

3 Chilean Consulate 12 Casa del Camping 18 Buses & Cambio El Pingüino 32 Migraciones 34 Foto Roil 54 A.C.A.

El Ancla, Magallanes 353. Seafood El Comercio, Roca 1302 El Dragón, Avenida 9 de Julio 27 El Palenque, Corrientes 73 K. Parrilla La Bella Nápoli, Magallanes 69 La Cantina, España 172. Seafood Lo de Córdoba, Sarmiento 124. Parrilla • Santa Cruz, Roca 701 • Tennis Club, Avellaneda 25 Pizzería • Don Bartolo, Roca 854 • Pietro, España 283

Foundation day: December 2nd week

B Tourist information •

7 Tour operators and car rental

• • • • • • •

A Festivals •

17 LAPA 33 L.A.D.E. 39 Buses Turis Santa Cruz/Línea Aérea Kaikén 40 Dinar Líneas Aéreas 46 Aerolineas Argentinas and Austral

Restaurant El Palenque

rests on wool, sheepskin, and coal exports. Of interest are the museums, the cathedral, and a harbor cruise. •

6 Airline offices

Subsecretaría de Turismo Provincial, Roca 1551 @ 422702 fax. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–14:00 Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Avenida de los Inmigrantes near Río Negro @ 425951. Open daily 09:00–12:00 and 15:00–19:00

Cafeterías • Burbujas, Magallanes 450. Dancing • Carrera, Roca near Fagnano • Casa de Campo, Avellaneda 275. Tearoom • Don Emilio, Alcorta 43. Bar • El Abuelo, San Martín near Comodoro Py. Bar • El Templo, Roca 1270. Dancing • Isidoro, Entre Ríos 55. Bar • Lola’s, Avenida San Martín 625 • Oásis, Avenida Roca 1260. Dancing • Pinda’s Café the Friends, Avenida Roca 911

E Eating out Restaurants • Bifería La Vasca, Roca 1084. Parrilla • Club Español El Horreo, Roca 862. Pasta & • Club Británico, Roca 935. International cuisine • Cosa Nostra, 9 de Julio 230. Italian cuisine • Díaz, Roca 1157. Parrilla Río Gallegos

578

SANTA CRUZ

• •

L Financial

Suburbios, Alcorta 57. Dancing Tito, Roca near San Martín. Pancakes Fast food • 18 Horas, Roca 1315 • Super Quick, España near Alberdí

• •

M Services and facilities

•

Camping equipment: Casa del Camping, Entre Ríos 33 Laundromats • Ladevi, Estrada 1184 • Laverap, Santiago del Estero near Don Bosco Photographic supplies • Foto Roil, Zapiola 137 • Tommy Color, Roca near Sarmiento

n Entertainment •

Casino Interworld, San Martín 625

I Post and telegraph • •

Cambio El Pingüino, Zapiola 469 Sur Cambio, San Martín 565

Post office: Correo Argentino, Avenida Roca 893 Telephone: Avenida Roca 614 near Chile

579

Río Gallegos

PATAGONIA R Air services from Río Gallegos Airlines • Aerolineas Argentinas and Austral, San Martín 545 @ 422945 fax 420181 • Dinar Líneas Aéreas, Avenida San Martín 695 @ 428191/437177 • Kaikén, Zapiola 63 @ 424503 fax 420968 • L.A.D.E., Fagnano 53 @ 422316/420912; e-mail [email protected] • LAPA, Estrada 71 @ 430446 fax 428382 Services • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Bahía Blanca $175.00 Bariloche Buenos Aires $236.00 Comodoro Rivadavia $103.00 Córdoba $231.00 Gobernador Gregores $39.00 Lago Argentino $40.00 Mendoza $209.00 Neuquén $214.00 Perito Moreno $69.00 Puerto Deseado $83.00 Puerto San Julián$55.00 Puerto Santa Cruz$22.00 Punta Arenas (Chi)$49.00 Río Grande $48.00 Río Turbio $35.00 Trelew $127.00 Ushuaia $56.00

Services 1 daily 2 weekly 2–4 daily 1–3 daily 3 weekly

Duration Airline Austral 7 hrs Kaikén Aerolineas, Dinar, Lapa Austral, Kaikén, L.A.D.E., LAPA, 4 hrs TAN Kaikén

4 weekly 5 weekly 5 weekly 3 weekly 4 weekly 2 weekly 1 weekly 2 weekly 3 weekly 1–2 daily 2 weekly 6 weekly 2–3 daily

L.A.D.E. Kaikén, L.A.D.E. Kaikén, TAN Kaikén, TAN L.A.D.E. Kaikén Kaikén L.A.D.E. Aerovias DAP Aerolineas, Kaikén, L.A.D.E., TAN L.A.D.E. Kaikén, LAPA Aerolineas, Kaikén, L.A.D.E.

•

P Visas, passports •

•

Chilean consulate, Moreno 144, Mon–Friday 09:00–13:00 @ 422364 Migraciones, Urquiza 144 @ 420205 08:00–15:00

U Motoring

Y Shopping

RN 3 to Puntas Arenas in Chile is unsealed but good. RP 5 to El Calafate is sealed all the way.

•

Service stations • A.C.A., Orkeke 10 near Chacabuco Car rental • Avis Town hall, Airport @ 436182/5 fax • Localiza, Sarmiento 237 @ 424417 fax • Rent a Car Eduardo Riestra, Ave. San Martín 1508 @ 421321 fax

•

Artesanías: Prepap, Perito Moreno 35

p Sightseeing

•

# Water transport

Occasionally ships depart for Buenos Aires.

Río Gallegos

Harbor cruises on the Bibiana II to Isla Deseada; marine and birdlife; Cabo Buen Tiempo, shipwreck of the “El Matrero”; Estancia Hill station on the north side, an early settlement; $12.00 2 1 2 hrs

580

Museo Regional Padre Manuel Jesús Molina (Padre Manuel Jesús Molina Regional Museum), Ave. San Martín near Ramón y Cajal. The emphasis is on geology and archeology, but it also has fine collections of flora and fauna. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00–19:00 Museo de los Pioneros (First Settlers Museum), Alberdi near El Cano. A restored pioneer homestead. Open daily from 13:00–20:00

SANTA CRUZ S Buses from Río Gallegos

The bus terminal is a fair distancesfrom downtown Río Gallegos on RN 3 near Avenida Eva Perón. However, some companies still have offices in town. Bus companies operating from the bus terminal • A19 Bus Sur/Turismo Zach @ 442080 • A81 Empresa Andesmar @ 442195 • A21 Buses Ghisoni, @ 422701 • A58 El Greko, @ 425879 • A65 El Pingüino @ 422751/422338/ • A105 Empresa Ortiz • A144 Interlagos Turismo @ 422989/442080 • A175 Magallanes Tours @ 422701 • A195 Quebek tours @ 426667/442194 • A211 T.A.C. @ 442042 • A221 Transportadora Patagónica Don Otto @ 442160 • A237 Transporte Ezquerra @ 442080 Bus companies with separate downtown terminals • A18 Burmeister, San Martín 470 @ 420293 (Cygnus Travel) • A65 Pingüino, Zapiola 455 @ 323338 • A246 Turis Santa Cruz, Zapiola 63 @ 322436 Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Services Bahía Blanca $90.00 1 daily Bariloche $105.00 1 daily Buenos Aires $120.00 2 daily Caleta Olivia $35.00 3–4 daily Comandante Luis Piedra Buena $15.00 4–5 daily Comodoro Rivadavia $35.00 3–4 daily Córdoba $120.00 3 weekly El Bolsón $79.00 1 daily El Calafate $25.00 12 daily El Chaltén $80.00 3 weekly Esquel $70.00 1 daily Glaciar Perito Moreno 1 daily Gobernador Gregores $32.00 2 weekly Mar del Plata $125.00 1 daily Neuquén $79.00 1 daily Punta Arenas $21.00 1–2 daily Puerto Madryn $49.00 2–3 daily Puerto Natales $25.00 4 weekly Puerto San Julián$19.00 3–4 daily Puerto Santa Cruz $15.00 1 daily Río Turbio $19.00 4 daily Trelew $46.00 2–3 daily

Duration Company A211 A211 38 hrs A65, A211 9 hrs A65, A195, A211 3 hrs A18, A58, A65, A195, A211, A246 11 hrs A65, A195, A211 A105, A195 A211 4 hrs A65, A144, A195 71 2 hrs A18 A211 A65 6 hrs A58 A211 A211 6 hrs A21, A65, A175 36 hrs A65, A195, A211 6 hrs A19, A65 4 hrs A18, A65, A195, A246 A65 5 hrs A65, A195, A237 36 hrs A65, A195, A211

Return trips to Río Gallegos leave Puerto Natales (Chi) 06:30, 11:00 Tues, Wed, Thurs, Sun. Return trips to Río Gallegos leave Punta Arenas (Chi) 11:00, 15:00 1–2 services daily.

581

Río Gallegos

PATAGONIA •

•

•

Museo “Malvinas Argentinas” (Malvinas Argentinas Museum), Pasteur 48. Display of arms used in the Falklands war. Open Mon, Thurs 08:00–12:00; Tues and Fri 13:00–17:30 Museo de Arte “Eduardo Minichelli” (Eduardo Minnichelli Fine Arts Museum), Maipú 13. Paintings and wood carvings. Open Tues and Fri 08:30–19:00 Museo “Casa De Gregores” (De Gregores House Museum)

•

s Excursions Tour operators • Interlagos Turismo, bus terminal @ 422989 runs buses to Glaciar Perito Moreno for $70.00 return • Cygnus Travel, Avenida San Martín 470 @ 436777 • Tur Aike Turismo, Zapiola 63 @ 424503 fax Excursions Tour operators organize three- and four-day tours to El Calafate and the glaciers around Lago Argentino, starting and finishing in Río Gallegos. Day trips from El Calafate include visits to Glaciar Perito Moreno, and Glaciar Upsala; 3 days/2 nights $350, 4 days/3 nights $580; shared accommodation in two-star hotels. • Río Turbio: The 277 km gravel road goes through very flat but green country and crosses the narrowgauge line used to bring coal to the harbor several times. The closer to the Andes (which are very low in this part of South America) the greener it gets. It is a dusty trip as the road is not sealed. There are Patagonian geese all along the road. See the entry for Río Turbio below • El Calafate: RP 5 is now paved all the way to El Calafate. At Esperanza, two hours away, is a restaurant and service station. After Esperanza the

Río Gallegos

•

•

582

country becomes hilly, culminating in a narrow and winding road over the Cuesta El Aguay, which has been declared a fauna reserve for its abundant wildlife. Shortly afterwards you cross the Río Bote. Here is the small Hotel Río Bote, known locally as a gaucho inn. See also Excursions from El Calafate on page 557 Reserva Provincial Cabo Virgenes: 134 km south on RP 1. This is the nesting place of 80 000 Magellan penguins between October and March. Eggs are laid in October and the first hatchlings come in November; usually each pair has two offspring. Vegetation consists mostly of calafate bushes and 1 m high mata verde bushes adapted to the harsh climate, especially the strong winds. Between the roots of those bushes the penguins excavate small tunnels to make their nests. These bushes are also the shelter for the young penguins. Estancia Monte Dinero, an estancia turística, is located 14 km north of the reserve with 10 beds, open October–March. Reservations: Casilla Correo 86, Río Gallegos @ fax 54-2966-426900. On the way you pass an oil treatment plant. Tour operators charge $60.00 per person, minimum four persons Reserva Provincial Laguna Azul: 60 km south, 4 km off RN 3. This area is of volcanic origin. Lago Azul itself occupies the site of an extinct volcano, an abrupt depression from the tableland. There is a surprising absence of vegetation. A visit is only possible with your own vehicle or through a travel agency. If you are hitchhiking ask to be set down about 9 km from the border post Punta Loyola: 30 km east. Near here is the wreck of the sailing ship Kently which foundered here in 1910. This is also a good fishing spot

SANTA CRUZ

RÍO TURBIO

Río Turbio Population: 6800 Postal code: 9407 @ area code: (02902) Distances From Río Gallegos: 278 km west on RN 40 • From Puerto Natales (Chile): 37 km north •

R

ío Turbio is located near the Chilean border. Argentina’s largest coal fields are near here. Some of the coal is shipped by train to Río Gallegos and some is used for power generation in Río Turbio itself.

B Tourist information

With the development of the Mina Uno ski slopes Río Turbio has also become a small winter sports center. Fishing is possible in nearby brooks and some lagunas.

• •

E Eating out

Julia Dufour.

Restaurants • Brujas, Gobernador Paradelo 457 • El Guri, A. del Castillo 277 near C. Pellegrini • Emanuel, R.S. Peña. Pizzería • Papulis, Teniente del Castillo near Newbery and Gregores

Julia Dufour is a small village 7 km north of Río Turbio with regular bus services to Río Turbio and Río Gallegos.

A Festivals •

Centro de Información Turística, Plazoleta A. del Castillo @ 421950 Club Andino Río Turbio, Paraje Mina Uno @ 421900; also ski hire

Foundation day: 14th December

S Buses from Río Turbio

The bus arriving from Río Gallegos connects with the bus to Puerto Natales in Chile. Across the border buses leave from the corner of Avenida de los Mineros and J Newbery. On Sundays the first bus leaves about 10:00; during the week at 09:00. It takes about half an hour to reach the border post, after a scenic drive up the mountain. The first bus from Puerto Natales to Río Turbio leaves at 08:00. Bus companies Individual bus companies have their own terminals and stops from which buses depart. • A19 Bus Sur/Turismo Zach • A44 Cootra, Ramón del Castillo 001 @fax 421448 • A65 El Pingüino, Jorge Newbery 14 @ 421203 • A165 Lagoper, Jorge Newbery 14 @ 421203 • A195 Quebek tours, Teniente Del Castillo 112 @ 421224 • A237 Transporte Ezquerra, Gob. Lista @ 421305 • A250 Turisur; to Chile Long-distance services • • •

Destination Fare El Calafate $24.00 Puerto Natales (Chile) $5.00 Río Gallegos $17.00

Services 1 daily 6-10 daily 4 daily

Duration Company 5 hrs A44 11 2 hrs A15, A44, A195,A250 5 hrs A65, A195, A237

583

Río Turbio

PATAGONIA T Trains

Cafeterías • Casablanca, R.S.Peña 35 • Kabash, Pellegrini. Dancing • Kaos, Gobernador Lista near Teniente del Castillo. Dancing

•

a Sport

I Post and telegraph • •

Río Turbio is promoting its Centro de Deportes Invernales Valdelén ski resort located 4 km uphill from the township and only 1 km from the Chilean border. It is operated by the Club Andino Río Turbio. The skiing season runs from June 1 to September 15. The area is good for both alpine and cross-country skiing, with 90% powder snow. Snow cover from 0.5 to 1 m. It is possible to ski from 09:00 until 22:00, as the snow-fields are illuminated. There are hourly buses to and from Río Turbio in fact these are the buses continuing to the border post. The following ski-lifts are in operation: • Teleski del Arco: 70 m long; carries 300 people an hour; for beginners • Teleski de la Base (Poma): 300 m long; carries 450 people an hour • Teleski del Bosque (Poma): 300 m long; carries 450 people an hour Alpine ski runs: • “Mulla”: 400 m long • “Mirador”: 900 m long • “Piren”: 1400 m long • “Valle Hermoso” 2500 m Lift tickets are $18.00 and hire of skis are $12.00 per day. Cross-country circuits: • “Circuit Monte Ñire”: 10 500 m long • “Circuit Monte Lenga”: 6200 m long

Post office: Correo Argentino R S Peña Telephone: Ovikil, R.S. Peña

M Services and facilities •

Camping and fishing equipment: Florería Tante Blume, Avenida de los Mineros Ski hire • El Montañez, Gobernador Moyano 355

Q Border crossing

Border formalities are 3 km uphill, past the ski-lifts, and are very quick on both sides. At the Argentine border control the Puerto Natales bus is waiting to take you to Chilean passport control about 4 km further on. From there it is a scenic 14 km downhill drive to Puerto Natales.

R Air services Airlines The airstrip is in 28 de Noviembre 16 km east. • L.A.D.E., Avenida de los Mineros 375 @ 421224 • El Pingüino, Jorge Newbery 14 Services • Río Gallegos ($25.00; 1 hr); Mon

s Excursions

U Motoring

Tour operators • Tapi Aike, Avenida de los Mineros near J.A.Roca @ 421382 Excursions • Puerto Natales in Chile • Parque Nacional Paine in Chile, via the Cancha Carrera border post

RN 40, the road north to El Calafate may be cut in bad weather. The road west to Puerto Natales is also a dirt road but is kept open all year round. • Service station: Y.P.F., Teniente A. Del Castillo near Ramón Castillo

Río Turbio

Río Gallegos: It is possible to get a lift with the coal freight trains leaving early in the morning; duration 11 hrs

584

TIERRA DEL FUEGO, ANTÁRTIDA, E ISLAS DEL ATLÁNTICO DEL SUR TATAGONIA P Tierra IERRAdel DEL Fuego FUEGO

Plate 11 587 589 591 592 595

Map of Tierra del Fuego Province Río Grande ABCEJKLMPRSUVWXaeps Map San Sebastián CEQSU Ushuaia BCEnJKLMPRSUVWXYabceg Map pqsuv

esides the eastern part of Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego, the province includes the islands in the South Atlantic as well as that part of Antarctica claimed by Argentina (“Antártida Argentina”). The total area of the province is 1 268 271 square kilometres (490 000 square miles) of which 20 912 square kilometres (8074 square miles) is the Argentine part of Tierra del Fuego. The total population is 70 000. The island of Tierra del Fuego proper (“Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego”) is split between Chile and Argentina. Chile has the western part and Argentina has the eastern part, bounded by the

B

585

Tierra del Fuego

PATAGONIA Estrecho de Magallanes (Strait of Magellan) in the north, the South Atlantic in the east, and the Canal Beagle in the south. The largest town and administrative center is Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world. Reaching Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego from the mainland involves passing through Chilean territory: either crossing the Estrecho de Magallanes at Primera Angostura or crossing from Punta Arenas to Porvenir; see also the companion volume Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island “Región XII de Magallanes”. The northern part of the island is flat whereas the southern part is fairly mountainous. The highest mountain is Cerro Olivia which is 1470 m high. The climate is harsh in winter with temperatures dropping as low as –20°C. The southern part of the province is wet and the northern part is dry. Lowest temperatures are in July. Skiing is possible from early April to late October. The northern part is grassland with few trees and is superb grazing land. From Río Grande south it is still mainly grasslands but interspersed with clusters of trees. The southern mountainous part of the province is forested. Tierra del Fuego has very little agriculture besides sheep farming. However, the economy has been boosted with the discovery of petroleum oil in the northern and eastern part of the island, and with the movement of high-tech industries, such as computers, from the mainland to places such as Río Grande. Logging is carried out in the forests in the south. Among the tourist attractions is the Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego which is only a short distance away from Ushuaia towards the

Tierra del Fuego

Chilean part of the island. The indigenous tribes, the Onas, Alacufes, and Yamanas, are all extinct. Ushuaia is the gateway to Antarctica and cruises to the Argentine Antarctic bases are organized by the National Tourist Organisation but increasingly Russian scientific vessels take on passengers. The best time to visit Antarctica is between December and March. Tierra del Fuego is linked with the mainland by flights from Ushuaia and Río Grande. Air services may be cut in harsh winter conditions. Road transport between Río Grande and Ushuaia runs daily, and also between Río Grande and Porvenir in Chile. Most roads are dirt roads. A massive road upgrading program is in progress stretching from San Sebastián on the Chilean border to Río Grande and beyond. Boat services between Ushuaia and Isla Navarino in Chile across the Canal Beagle are unreliable.

Tourist destinations Worth a visit & Ushuaia Worth a detour & Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego Very interesting

& Lago Fagnano and Lago Escondido

Of interest & Río Grande and “Corazón de la Isla”

586

TIERRA DEL FUEGO

RÍO GRANDE

Río Grande Population: 45 000 Postal code: 9420 @ area code: (02964) Altitude: sea level Distances From Porvenir (Chile): 239 km eastwards on RN 3 • From Ushuaia: 236 km north-east on RN 3 •

R

ío Grande is the economic capital of Argentine Tierra del Fuego, situated in a plain on the often windswept eastern coast. It was settled in 1894 and is a modern, clean port town with wide avenues. Winds from the Antarctic occasionally make life miserable. Not far from the town are oil fields, with some drilling carried out offshore. The district consists mostly of sheep farms; one of the biggest slaughterhouses can be visited between February and June. The town is expanding to the south, with electronic industries being set up in an industrial park.

C Accommodation in Río Grande

Accommodation is very difficult to find between January and March. Also, most of the cheap accommodation is taken up by itinerant oil workers. Apart Hotels *

Hotels *** *** *** ***

Keyuk’n 1, Colón 630

AEIKLPV

• Posada de los Sauces, El Cano 839

Hospedajes

Avenida, Avenida Belgrano 1001 LP Antares, Echeverria 49 L Miramar, Mackinlay 401 EL Noal, R. Obligado 557 L Rawson, Estrada 750 L Villa, San Martin 277 L Hospedaje Irmary, Estrada 743 Near Senkovic bus office

Accommodation south of Río Grande **

424435

$F

2

431914 fax 430071 421518 430820

$E $F $F $F

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@

432895 fax

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2

@ @ @ @ @ @

422561 421517 424052 422857 430352 422312

$H $H $G $G $H $H $J

2 2 2 2 2 2 1

@

424638 fax $F

2

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2

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2

Atlántida, Avenida Manuel Belgrano 582 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Federico Ibarra, Rosales 357 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ Isla del Mar, Güemes 963 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ Los Yaganes, Belgrano 319 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @

Hosterías A B B B B B •

@

San Pablo, 70 km south Two meals included

AEFGJLPSUV

Accommodation on Lago Yehuin

Lago Yehuin, AELPSV Two meals included • Parador Yawen, sawmill Resnik, Fax (02964) 431989; two meals included

*

587

@

433995

@

(02964) 424218

Río Grande

PATAGONIA Key to map C D E H I $ T

Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica de Argentina Hospital Dirección Municipal de Turismo Banca Nazionale del Lavoro Central bus terminal

3 Accommodation 3 5 10 12 13 18 19 22 23

Hospedaje Rawson Hospedaje Irmary Hotel Atlántida Hospedaje Noal Hospedaje Avenida Hotel Los Yaganes Hotel Isla del Mar Hospedaje Miramar Hostería Posada de los Sauces 25 Hospedaje Antares 26 Hotel Federico Ibarra

4 Eating out 2 8 15 16 30 36

Pizzería El Nono Cafetería Ciclos Cafetería El Trébol Pizzería Las Cuartetas Cafetería Roca Restaurant Club Social de Río Grande

5 Entertainment

27 Cafetería La Barraca 38 Cafetería Alcatraz

6 Airline offices 1 6

Kaikén Línea Aérea Aerolíneas Argentinas and Austral 21 L.A.D.E. 32 LAPA 35 Aerovias DAP

Trout festival: 3rd Sunday in February Snow festival: 3rd Sunday in July Fiesta de la Lenga (Woodsman Festival): 1st Sunday in December, at Aserradero Laguna Verde

• •

•

Instituto Fueguino de Turismo, Belgrano 319 CAPTUR, Libertad 718 oficina 1 @ 426896 fax 426897 Dirección Municipal de Turismo, El Cano 203 @ 430790/4. They have an excellent town map

37 Museo de Ciencias Naturales

0 Services 4 9 14 17

Transporte Los Carlos Anglers Tecni Austral Instituto Fueguino de Turismo 29 Sauna 33 CAPTUR

Post office: Correo Argentino, Ameghino 72 Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Piedra Buena 787

L Financial

•

Banca Nazionale del Lavoro, San Martín 194

M Services and facilities

•

E Eating out

•

Restaurants • Atlántida, Avenida Belgrano 582 • Camerata Comedor, Luis Py 338. Bar

Río Grande

9 Sights

I Post and telegraph

•

B Tourist information •

Turismo Yaganes A1 Rent-a-Car Paralelo 52 Avis Rent a Car Mariani Travel Argentina Isla del Mar Turismo

Club Social de Río Grande, Avenida Perito Moreno 66 • D’Amici, Lassere 149 Cafeterías • Alcatraz, 11 de Julio 767. Dancing • Ciclos, San Martín 649 • El Trébol, Belgrano 557. Bar • La Barraca, Avenida Perito Moreno 247. Dancing • La Vieja Casona, El Cano near Lassere. Bar • Roca, Espora 643 Pizzerías • El Nono, Estrada 844 • Las Cuartetas, Lasserre 566

A Festivals • •

7 11 20 24 31 34

•

Río Grande has become the center for attracting tourism to the center north of Argentine Tierra del Fuego. Estancias in the centre and sawmills in the south-west have opened the doors to ecotourists and fishing enthusiasts. Included here are several locations which cater for the outdoor enthusiast. •

7 Tour operators and car rental

28 Hospedaje Villa

588

Fishing equipment: Anglers, Rosales 646 Sauna: San Martin 236

TIERRA DEL FUEGO To Ushuaia

To San Sebastián and Porvenir (Chile) 3

1

2

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

PERITO MORENO

ALBERDI

25 DE MAYO

RÍO GRANDE Marine Infantry School

THORNE

3

4

ESTRADA

9

AMEGHINO

E 8 7

MACKINLAY

PIEDRABUENA

SPORT CENTER

LAS SERE

ROSALES

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5

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10 6

19

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13 15

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35 34

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LIBERTAD 37 36 I

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Atlantic Ocean

11 DE JULIO 38

ANTARTIDA ARGENTINA To Puente Mosconi

P Visa, Passports •

°

Chilean consulate, Padre Beauvoir 351

•

S Buses

•

The central bus terminal is on Avenida Belgrano. Bus companies • Empresa Senkovic, bus terminal @ 421339. Book in advance ° Porvenir (Chile) ($22.50; 7 hrs); 06:00 Wed–Sat • Transporte Los Carlos, Estrada 568 @ 433871

Punta Arenas (Chile)($30.00; 10 hrs); 07:00 Mon; return Tues. ° Ushuaia ($22.50; 4 hrs); 19:00 daily Tecni Austral, Rivadavia 996 @ 424744 ° Ushuaia ($22.50; 4 hrs); 07:30 daily Transporte Pacheco, bus terminal @ 423382 ° Punta Arenas (Chile) ($30.0; 10 hrs); 07:30 Tues, Thurs, Sat; returns 07:15 Mon, Wed, Fri

U Motoring

The road from Río Grande to Porvenir in Chile has been upgraded on the Argentine side, but it is still a rough trip

589

Río Grande

PATAGONIA R Air services from Río Grande

The airport is on Ruta “C”, turning off at Ave. Islas Malvinas 5 km west. There is no municipal bus service, but Los Carlos buses pass by the airport on their way to and from Ushuaia. Airlines • Aerolíneas Argentinas and Austral, San Martín 607 @ 422748 • Aerovias DAP, 9 de Julio 597 @ 430249 fax 430700 • Kaikén Línea Aérea, Perito Moreno 937 @ 422742/423592 • L.A.D.E., Laserre 425 @ 422968; e-mail: [email protected]. Refer to the L.A.D.E. section under Air services from Buenos Aires City on page 66. • LAPA, 9 de Julio 747 @ 432620 fax Services • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Bahía Blanca Bariloche Buenos Aires Comodoro Rivadavia Córdoba Esquel Lago Argentino Mendoza Neuquén Río Gallegos

Services 1–2 daily 2 weekly 3 daily 1–2 daily 3 weekly 2 weekly 2 weekly 2 weekly 2 weekly 1-2 daily

• • •

Santa Rosa Trelew Ushuaia

3 weekly 5 weekly 8 weekly

Duration Airline 4 hrs AU, Kaikén Kaikén 41 2 hrs Aerolíneas Argentinas , L.A.D.E. 21 4 hrs Kaikén, L.A.D.E. Kaikén Kaikén Kaikén, L.A.D.E. Kaikén Kaikén 1 hour Aerolíneas Argentinas , Kaikén, 2 L.A.D.E. Kaikén Kaikén 1 hour Kaikén, L.A.D.E. 2

s Excursions

through Chilean Tierra del Fuego. There is a passport control point at San Sebastián. The road south is sealed as far as Punta María on the coast and being upgraded all the way to Ushuaia. • Service station: A.C.A., San Martín block 400 (corner of Rivadavia) Car rental • AI, Ameghino 612 @ 430757 • Avis, El Cano 839 • Localiza, Santa Rosa 336

Tour operators • Isla del Mar Turismo, 9 de Julio 671 @ 426301 • Mariani Travel Argentina, Rosales 259 @ 426010 fax • Paralelo 52, Fagnano 820 @ 420720/431120 fax • Turismo Yaganes, San Martín 641 @ 433644/433185 fax Excursions • Ushuaia: Travel along the sealed coastal road to Punta María. From Río Fuego further south the trees clustered in farmland become forests. From Río Ewan the road turns inland and the scenery changes to park land: rolling hills and open spaces, used for grazing, interspersed with lakes and forests. Patagonian geese abound. Soon the Sierra Lucio López comes into view. Many of the mountains carry snow all year round although they are under 1500 m. There is logging in the area, especially around

a Sport •

Fishing: Salmon fishing in the Río Grande. Catches of up to 8 kg are common

p Sightseeing •

Museo de Ciencias Naturales e Historia (Natural Sciences and History Museum) El Cano 203 in the town hall building

Río Grande

590

TIERRA DEL FUEGO Tolhuin. Most of the houses are built from timber which gives them an alpine look. After Tolhuin the road starts to climb. At Hostería Kaikén, an A.C.A. hostería, you reach Lago Fagnano. Buses stop for refreshments here allowing time to take a few scenic photographs of the lake, which, with the mountains in the west, must rank as a first-rate tourist attraction. After Kaikén the road starts its climb towards Paso Garibaldi. The road is very winding and passes the turn-off to Lago Escondido with an hostería at the southern end. The road follows a deep gorge on the western side. Most of the mountain peaks are covered with ice or snow. Near Paso Garibaldi is another small lake. At KM 3015 you look down into the Valle Tierra Mayor valley, which has a ski run and

•

the Hostería Valle Tierra Mayor. After crossing the Río Olivia, the road descends sharply to the Canal Beagle passing waterfalls, fern gullies, and views of Cerro Olivia. Six km before Ushuaia the road reaches the Canal Beagle, providing the first glimpse of Ushuaia. The stretch between Lago Fagnano and Ushuaia would be one of the most scenic trips in Tierra del Fuego Salesian mission: 11 km north on RN 3. The mission was founded by Monsignor Fagnano. There is an interesting regional museum which is housed in the original chapel. Exhibits consist mostly of Ona artefacts, and there are a lot of them! There are also fossils and Salesian mission memorabilia

SAN SEBASTIÁN

San Sebastián @ area code: by operator dial 19 Altitude: sea level Distances • From Porvenir (Chile): 160 km east • From Río Grande: 79 km north-west on RN 3

S

an Sebastián is a small town with an oil refinery and a border control point.

C Accommodation *

U Motoring

Hostería San Sebastián A.C.A. AEFGJLPUV @ 425542 $G 2

On the Argentine side the road to Río Grande has been upgraded. From KM 2780 onwards the road is sealed intermittently. Along the road there are many “oil dogs” pumping the crude oil and a maze of pipelines. The countryside is dotted with oil rigs and there are some rigs out to sea. The land is very flat and the road is a straight line. On the southern horizon you can see mountains which are usually snow-capped.

E Eating out •

Cafetería La Frontera. On the Chilean side

Q Border crossing

San Sebastián is an Argentine and Chilean border control point. The border is open 24 hours all year round.

S Buses

There is a Transportes Senkovic office; services to Porvenir and Río Grande.

591

San Sebastián

PATAGONIA

USHUAIA

Ushuaia Population: 41 000 Postal code: 9410 @ area code: (02901) Altitude: sea level Distances From Buenos Aires: 3178 km south on RN 3 • From Río Gallegos: 598 km south on RN 3 •

U

shuaia, the capital of the province, is situated on the slopes of the Cerro Martial around Bahía Encerrada overlooking the Canal Beagle. It is the largest town of the Argentine part of Tierra del Fuego and is the southernmost city in the world. It was founded in 1884 by Comodoro Augusto Lassere. In winter the temperature drops as • Tourist office at airport has hotel information low as –12°C (12°F), and in summer Administración Parques Nacionales, • rises to 25°C (80°F). Snowfalls in Avenida San Martín 1395 summer are not unusual. It is possi• Departamento de Fauna, San Martín ble to ski on the slopes of Cerro Marnear Lassere @ 422576 fax tial as early as April. • Club Andino Ushuaia, Juana Fadul 48 @ 422335 The area is densely forested and the timber industry is very strong. E Eating out Fishing, sheep raising, and tourism Centolla (king crab) and cholga (giant are the pillars of the economy. mussels) are the specialty food of the Although Ushuaia is expensive town. and desperately short of accommoRestaurants dation in the lower price bracket, • Antártida, J.M. de Rosas 45 this town with its Nordic appear- & • Barcleit, Juana Fadul 148. International cuisine ance is well worth a visit. The vistas • Kaupé, Roca 470. International cuifrom the town of the snow-clad sine mountains are splendid. • La Buena Esperanza, Maipú near 9 de Ushuaia is the gateway to the Julio. Chinese cuisine Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego & • La Casa de los Mariscos, San Martín 232. Seafood and for excursions around the Canal • Los Amigos, Avenida San Martín 130 Beagle and to neighboring Isla • Moustacchio, San Martín near Navarino in Chile. Godoy. Seafood; menu in English Also included here are Lago • Volver, Avenida Maipú 37 Escondido and Lago Fagnano and Pizzería their facilities. • El Turco, Avenida San Martín 1460 •

Ideal, San Martín 391. Seafood and pizzas • La Don Juan, Avenida San Martín 345 Cafeterías • Barny’s, Antártida Argentina 196. Dancing • Black and White, Gob. Deloqui 71. Night club

B Tourist information •

•

Instituto Fueguino de Turismo, Avenida Maipú 505 @ 421423/423340 Dirección Municipal de Turismo, San Martín 660 @ 424550/432000 fax. Open daily 08:00–20:00. Has a large chart of hotels with prices

Ushuaia

592

TIERRA DEL FUEGO C Accommodation in Ushuaia

Ushuaia has a shortage of low-cost accommodation, especially during the summer months from December to February. The tourist office has a list of private lodgings. Apart hotels ***

Hostal del Bosque, Magallanes 709

@

S

421723

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Hotels

Albatros, Maipú 505 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 430666 @ 430003 **** Ushuaia, Laserre 933 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 430671 @ 423051 fax *** Canal Beagle, Maipú 599 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 421117 *** Las Lengas, Florencia 1722 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 423366 Views over town and bay ** Cabo de Hornos, San Martín near J.M. de Rosas FS @ 422187 ** César, San Martín 753 AEFGJLPSUV @ 421460 Fax 432721 * Maitén, 12 de Octubre 140 AEFHLPSV @ 422745 @ 421833 • Hostal Capri, San Martín 720 @ 423467 • Posada Fueguina, Lassere 438 • Quality Inn, Ave. Maipú 505 ****

Hosterías América, Gob. Paz 1659 Hostal de la Laguna, Las Lajas 1247 * Mustapic, Piedra Buena 230 • Alakuf, Avenida San Martín 146 * *

AELPSV AELPSV AEIKLPV

@ @ @ @

423358 424419 421718 436705

Hospedajes

A Hospedaje Malvinas, Deloqui 615 LPS @ 422626 C El Refugio del Turista, 25 de Mayo 237 C Fernández, Onachaga 74 @ 421192 C Señora Hilda Sánchez, Deloqui 395 near Roca; suitable for back-packers C Torres al Sur, Gob. Paz 1437

Albergues

• Municipal, Avenida Maipú near 12 de Octubre

@

422089/422455 $J

1

Accommodation near Glaciar Martial Hotels ***** ****

Las Hayas Resort Hotel, Luis F Martial 1650 ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$TUVXYZ Fax 430719 @ 430701 del Glaciar, Avenida L.F. Martial 2355 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 430636 @ 430640

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Accommodation on RN 3 ***

Hotel Tolkeyen, Estancia Río Pipo 5 km east of town ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 434880

Accommodation on Lago Escondido **

Hostería Petrel, RN 3 KM 60 on southern end of Lago Escondido AEFGJKLPSUV @ 433569

Accommodation on Lago Fagnano **

Hostería Kaikén Views over lake; open all year

AEFGJKLPSUV

593

@

492208

Ushuaia

PATAGONIA Key to map A B C D E H I P $

Iglesia Gobernación Provincial (Government) Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica Argentina Hospital Dirección Municipal de Turismo A.C.A. Banco del Territorio

3 Accommodation 1 3 4 5 6 8 11 15 18 26 38 43 53 56 57

• • • • • • • •

Apart hotel Hostal del Bosque Hospedaje Torres al Sur Hostería Mustapic Hospedaje Malvinas Hospedaje El Refugio del Turista Hospedaje Señora Hilda Sánchez Hostería América Hotel Cabo de Hornos Hotel César Hotel Las Lengas Hotel Canal Beagle Hotel Albatros Hostería Alakuf Hotel Maitén Hospedaje Fernández

4 Eating out 2 12 17 19 21 22 27 28 29 31 36 45 48 54 55

Restaurant Kaupé Cafetería El Recinto Bakery: Las Verbenas Restaurant Barcleit Pizzería Ideal Pizzería La Don Juan Pizzería El Turco Cafetería Ovni Restaurant Antártida Restaurant La Buena Esperanza Cafetería Beer Garden Cafetería Food Garden Restaurant La Casa de los Mariscos Restaurant Los Amigos Restaurant Volver

5 Entertainment 7 9

Cafetería Tropicana Show Cafetería Black and White. Night club 24 Cafetería Tequila Pub 25 Cafetería Barny’s. Dancing 46 Cafetería San Telmo Sur

6 Airline offices

16 Kaikén Línea Aérea 20 Aerolíneas Argentinas and Austral

•

9 Sights

10 Presidio de Ushuaia 51 Museo Territorial (Museo del Fin del Mundo)

0 Services

13 Administración Parques Nacionales 30 Transporte Los Carlos 32 Shopping center Lapataia 33 Skiing: Popper Store 34 Transporte Pasarela 35 Club Andino Ushuaia 37 Buses Tecni Austral 40 Cerámicas Kren 42 Instituto Fueguino de Turismo 49 Skiing: Jimmy Button 58 Sports complex 59 Chilean consulate

M Services and facilities

• •

Bakery: Las Verbenas, San Martín 741 Photo: Foto Eduardo’s Ski hire • Popper Store, San Martín 730 @ 422244 • Jimmy Button, Avenida San Martín 214 @ 422423

Casino Fin del Mundo, Hotel del Glaciar

P Visas, passports

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, San Martín near Gobernador Godoy. Open Mon–Sat 09:00–19:00 Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, Roca 154. Open daily 07:00–22:00

Ushuaia

14 Tagle Servicios Turísticos 41 Localiza Rent a Car 44 Rumbo Sur, San Martín 342 50 Antartur/El Pingüino

Banks are open 08:00–13:00. Banks charge commission or a fixed charge regardless of amount for travelers’ checks. • Banco del Territorio, San Martín 152. ATM

I Post and telegraph •

7 Tour operators and car rental

L Financial

Club Náutico, Maipú near Belgrano Deer Garden, Avenida San Martín 638 El Recinto, Avenida San Martín 1433; $Z. Snack bar Food Garden, Avenida San Martín 312. Fast food Ovni, Avenida San Martín 937 San Telmo Sur, Gob. Godoy 53. Bar Tequila, Gob. Deloqui 136. Bar Tropicana Show, Roca 250. Night club

n Entertainment •

23 L.A.D.E.CO 39 L.A.D.E.

Chilean consulate, Malvinas Argentinas 244 near Kuanip @ 430909

S Buses Bus companies • Transporte Los Carlos, J.M. de Rosas 85 @ 422337 ° Río Grande (4 hrs) via Lago Fagnano ($22.50); 1 daily 08:00.

594

TIERRA DEL FUEGO To San Sebastián and Lago Fagnano

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To Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego

°

•

On Mon there is an additional early service at 03:00 Punta Arenas via Lago Fagnano and Río Grande ($50.00; 14 hrs); Mon 03:00; returning from Punta Arenas Tues 07:00

•

595

Transporte Rumbo Sur, San Martín 342 @ 422441 ° Airport ($6.00) ° Cerro Martial ($5.00) Tecni Austral, 25 de Mayo 50, Galería del Jardín @ 423396 fax Ushuaia

PATAGONIA R Air services from Ushuaia

The airport is across the Bahía de Ushuaia, just 2 km from the center of Ushuaia. Bus no. 2 goes from the center to the airport. On taking off you get spectacular views over the city, Isla Navarino in Chile, and the Canal Beagle with its boats appearing as numerous little specks in the water. For the first ten minutes the plane flies over snow-clad mountain ranges. Flights in winter are sometimes canceled due to bad weather and planes may land in Río Grande. Flying in and out of Ushuaia is a problem at the best of times. During the main tourist season, between December and March, the planes are constantly booked out well in advance. The alternative is to take a bus to Río Grande and board a flight from there. When using L.A.D.E. flights it is more interesting to go straight to Lago Argentino (the airport for El Calafate) rather than alighting in Río Gallegos. Airlines • Aerolíneas Argentinas and Austral, Roca 126 @ 421218. • L.A.D.E., Galería Albatros, San Martín 546 @ 421123; e-mail: [email protected] • Kaikén Línea Aérea, San Martín 857 @ 423663 • L.A.D.E.CO, Godoy 115 @ 431110 • LAPA, Malvinas Argentinas 120 @ 422150 Services

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Destination Bahía Blanca Bariloche Buenos Aires

Fare

• • • • • • •

Comodoro Rivadavia Córdoba Esquel Lago Argentino Mendoza Neuquén Río Gallegos

8 weekly 2 weekly 2 weekly 1-2 daily 5 weekly 2 weekly 2-3 daily

• • •

Río Grande Santa Rosa Trelew

6 weekly 2 weekly 1-2 daily

$190.00

Services 2 weekly 5 weekly 3 daily

Duration 81 2 83 4 41 2

Airline Kaikén Kaikén Aerolíneas Argentinas, L.A.D.E., LAPA 61 2 Kaikén, L.A.D.E. 101 2 Kaikén 73 4 Kaikén 21 2 Kaikén, L.A.D.E. 121 4 Kaikén 101 2 Kaikén 1 Aerolíneas Argentinas, Kaikén, L.A.D.E., LAPA 1 2 Kaikén, L.A.D.E. 91 2 Kaikén 2 Aerolíneas Argentinas, Kaikén, LAPA

U Motoring

° Río Grande; daily 18:00 Transporte Pasarela, Juana Fadul 40 @ 433712 ° Glaciar Martial ($5.00 return); 4 daily ° Lago Roca in Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego ($10.00; 45 min.) ° Las Cotorras ($10.00 return) via Valle de los Huskies ($7.00 return) and Tierra de Mayor ($8.00 return); 3 daily ° Punta Arenas via Lago Fagnano and Río Grande ($50); Fri 04:00; returning Sun 10:00

Ushuaia

The road between Ushuaia and Río Grande via Paso Garibaldi is not sealed. The pass is kept free of snow during winter. Car rental • AI , Kuanip 1886 @ 44350/443116 • Localiza, Avenida Maipú 505 local 2 @ 430663 Service stations • A.C.A., Malvinas near Onachaga

Y Shopping

•

596

Shopping center Lapataia, San Martín 790

TIERRA DEL FUEGO •

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Cerámicas Kren, San Martín 512. Souvenirs

a Sport

There is a sports complex at the corner of Malvinas Argentinas and Onachaga, on Bahía Encerrada, with an indoor heated swimming pool. • Diving: Asociación Fueguina de Actividades Subacuaticas, Centro Polideportivo Municipal, Avenida 12 de Octubre near Avenida Maipú @ 422424 • Fishing: Asociación de Caza y Pesca, Maipú near 9 de Julio @ 423168 • Sailing: Club Náutico, Maipú near Belgrano @ 422424 Skiing Because of its sub-antarctic location the mountainous area in the vicinity of Ushuaia is particularly suitable for skiing. The official skiing season runs from June 1 to October 15. The temperature ranges from –4 °C to +2 °C (30°F to 35°F). Altogether there are now six ski resorts around Ushuaia. • Valle de los Huskies: Located in the Valle Mayor 17 km north via RN 3, with regular daily bus services. Elevation 180–700 m in a forested area, dry compact powder snow cover is 3 m deep. There is only room for 15 cars to park outside the refugio; no accommodation, just a cafeteria for 100 persons, fixed menu for $15.00. Hire of skis: $25.00 per day, hire of snowcats $10.00 per 15 minutes. Information Ushuaia Kuanip 148 @ 431902. No ski patrols and no ski lifts. Suitable for day excursion from Ushuaia. Transporte Pasarela runs bus services • Valle Tierra Mayor: 20 km east. Equipment rental, snow-mobiling and cafeteria. Suitable for cross-country skiing. Empresa Pasarela runs daily services • Pista Francisco Jerman: 5 km from Ushuaia off RN 3. It belongs to the Club Andino Ushuaia which runs a ski school here. Elevation 390–470 m. Powder snow suitable for downhill and cross-country skiing. Ski hire. Daily buses and colectivos from Ushuaia

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597

Glaciar Martial: 7 km from Ushuaia. Elevation 325–1200 m. This is the main skiing area in Tierra del Fuego. Snow cover at the base is 1.5 m and at the top 2.5 m. It has one double chair lift and one bambi lift for beginners. Suitable for alpine skiing. Ski school: $6.00 per person; hire of skis: $20.00 per day; lift pass: $12.50. Regular daily buses every hour, $5.00 return Haruwen: 37 km north near Vega Café. Reached via RN 3 with taxis or colectivos from Ushuaia. Elevation 220 –750 m in a forested area with dry compact powder snow cover 3 m deep. At the base is a cafetería for 50 persons. Hire of skis: $20.00 per day, hire of sleds: $6.00 per hour. Excursions in dog sleds: $40.00. No ski patrols and no ski lifts; suitable for day excursions from Ushuaia Club Andino Ushuaia: The ski run of this club is in the foothills of the Cerro Martial some 3 km from Ushuaia. Reached from downtown Ushuaia by excursion buses and colectivos. Information Club Andino Ushuaia, Fadul @ 22355. Elevation 90 m–1200 m. The ski slopes are patrolled. At the base there is a cafeteria capacity 60 persons. The longest run is 750 m ; ski area is 4.6 ha (11 acres). The snow is 0.7–2 m deep and consists of powder snow. There are two ski lifts: teleski lift tickets $10.00 and bambi lift $6.00 per day. The slope gradiants are 21– 41%. The ski season runs from June 15 to September 15 Cerro Castor: 27 km from Ushuaia on RN 3. It is being promoted as the fourth winter sport center in Argentina. The area is 400 ha with stands of lengas and ñires trees. The big attraction is that you can ski for at least four months. The Del Bosque chair lift at the base is reached through a short tunnel. The facilities at the base include a snackbar, ski hire, first aid, and ski school. There are fifteen ski runs; altogether there are 16 kms of downhill skiing: the longest run is 6 km. The ski runs are suitable for beginners to experts. The beginners’ ski lift is called Los Castores (”The Beavers”). Experts use the chairlift Las Piedras which is 1600 m long. It

Ushuaia

PATAGONIA reaches the highest point — 960 m — in 12 minutes. At the moment there are three chair lifts and one ski-lift. There is plenty of snow and it always comes on time; there are at least four months of good skiing. The only disadvantage is that because of its latitude there are only 5–6 hrs daylight, but the low altitude of the ski runs is definitely an advantage

Excursions • Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego: This park covers 63 000 ha (155 700 acres) and starts directly on the Canal Beagle. The route from Ushuaia follows Islas Malvinas and then RN 3 west; it is only 12 km or half an hours drive from Ushuaia. This national park is a region of lakes, dense forests, and snow-covered high mountains. Its serene tranquillity is reflected in the lakes and rivers, which are crystal clear and of good drinking quality. The rivers and lakes abound with trout and salmon. Beavers may be seen in the park near the Chilean border. Behind the entrance on the right- hand side is a picnic area with fireplaces and tables. Further on at Lapataia, 18 km from Ushuaia, beside the forested shore of Lago Roca, is the Casita del Bosque café. Next to it is the Arua Ovando Camping, with facilities for cars and tents; open from December to March. The setting of Lago Roca is very picturesque with the mountains coming right down to the edge. Half of the lake is in the Chilean sector. Along the north-western side of the lake is a trail which leads to the Chilean border, signified by some planks of wood. There is no problem continuing the trail on the other side of the border into the Chilean national park. There are plenty of salmon and trout in the waters of the park. The introduction of beavers into the park from Canada has had an unbalancing effect on nature and the park authorities are trying to remove the beavers. Weather can be cold so be prepared. Rangers in the park are friendly and will advise people on the sights. Hitchhiking is easy in the summer months with passing motorists or national park staff offering lifts. Buses Pasarela runs 4 services daily to Lago Roca taking 45 minutes, fare $10.00. Admission to national park: $5.00; camping is $5.00 per tent • Cascadas de Río Pipo: On the road to the Parque Nacional, 4 km from Ushuaia. There is a free camp site; it has no facilities but is beside a

p Sightseeing •

•

Museo Territorial (Territorial Museum), also called Museo del Fin del Mundo (Museum of the End of the World), Maipú 181 (corner of Rivadavia). Open daily 15:00–20:30. The collection of memorabilia from the early days of European settlement is extremely interesting. The artefacts made by the now extinct local tribes are well worth seeing. Admission $1.00 Presido de Ushuaia, Yaganes near Gob. Paz. The building was started in 1896 and completed in 1902. Until 1947 it was home for Argentina’s criminals. It is now part of the Base Naval. Open daily, admission $7.00

s Excursions Tour operators • Antartur, Avenida Maipú 237 @ 423240 fax 424108. Boat tours to Antarctica • Asociación Argentina de Guías de Montaña, regional office Ushuaia, @ (02901) 421781. Contact: Sr. Luis Turi • Ebenezer Transportes, San Martín near 25 de Mayo @ 431133 • Patagonia Express, Maipú 17 @ 422912 • Proyectos Turísticos Ferroviarios, Estación Fin del Mundo, RN 3 KM 8 @ 431600 fax. A narrow-gauge tourist train to Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, two services daily at 10:00 and 15:00 taking 21 2 hrs, fares $27.00 • Rumbo Sur, San Martín 342 @ 421139/4224441/423085 fax 430699 • Tagle Servicios Turísticos, San Martín 1195 @ 422744/433084. Also car rental • Tolkeyen Servicios Turísticos SRL, Tekenika 113 @ 432920

Ushuaia

598

TIERRA DEL FUEGO •

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•

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restaurant. Buses Pasarela runs 4 services daily past the falls Río Olivia: 12 km east. Waterfalls, fern gullies, camping. Near the mouth of the river is a fish hatchery. Open Tues and Thurs 10:00–12:00 and 14:00–18:00. Take an eastbound bus no. 1; travel to the end of the route then walk 2 km further Glaciar Martial: 7 km behind town. A three-hour 14 km scenic walk along a mountain trail to glacier can be made. Nearby is a small dam. There is also a 1000 m chair lift to the glacier, which operates daily from 10:45–19:45. Club Andino Ushuaia operates a confitería near the ski slopes which is open daily 16:00–24:00. Take a Rumbo Sur bus Punta Arenas in Chile via Puerto Williams on Isla Navarino in Chile: Cross by means of ferry from Ushuaia to Puerto Williams in Chile. Usually you have to spend a night in Puerto Williams and board a flight to Punta Arenas the next day. These flights are irregular—check the flight timetable with a tourist agency or the Chilean consul in Ushuaia Antártida Argentina (Argentine Antarctica): An 11-day trip to the scientific bases during January and February. The cheapest way to go into Antarctic waters is with Russian scientific vessels which take on passengers to finance these scientific trips; a seven day trip can cost as little as $1600.00

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599

Lago Fagnano is a glacier lake located 104 km north of Ushuaia. At 545 square kilometers (210 square miles) it is the largest lake on Tierra del Fuego and is shared with Chile. Indeed the outlet of this lake is via Río Azopardi in Chile. The extreme western part along the border is part of the Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego. It is best explored from Hostería Kaikén which is located on a promontory on the eastern part of Lago Fagnano in a very picturesque spot. This is also an A.C.A. service station. Fifteen km south past Kaikén there are hot springs; turn off to the left. Buses en route from Río Grande to Ushuaia usually take a meal break at Hostería Kaikén Lago Escondido: Surrounded by forested mountains, 55 km north off RN 3 A three to four hour trip; 55 km north on RN 3. Lago Escondido is one of the most picturesque lakes in Tierra del Fuego. Scenic views over lake from the hostería Puerto Williams on Isla Navarino (Chile): It is possible to cross the Canal Beagle to Puerto Williams on Isla Navarino. There is a tourist boat on Saturdays provided there are enough passengers, $60.00 taking 1 1 2 hrs. From Puerto Williams DAP has regular flights to Punta Arenas. For a detailed description of Isla Navarino see the companion volume Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región XII de Magallanes”.

Ushuaia

CUYO

PROVINCES

The traditional Cuyo provinces are those north of Patagonia and west of the pampas, which were settled by Spaniards arriving from Chile. The area is fairly dry, but with abundant water descending from the Andes many areas are under cultivation, mostly vineyards. Of the four provinces making up this region Mendoza, San Juan, and La Rioja share a border with Chile. 601

SAN LUIS SAN C San UYO Luis LUIS PROVINCES

Plate 14 603 604 605 606 606 607 611 612 613 614 614 616 623 624 626 627

Map of San Luis Province Carolina CSst Concarán CEJKSp La Toma CEIMSUYps Libertador General San Martín CESYp Merlo BCDEnJKILNSUWY^fahjop r Map s Parque Nacional Sierra de las Quijadas tv Pueblos de la Costa CS Quines CESYu San Francisco del Monte de Oro CDEnSUYst San Luis BCEnJKLMRSUVWXYaiopqr Map stu Santa Rosa del Conlara CDSpqst Sierra Central de San Luis CDEnSUWYabefghs Tilisarao ACDEISaefhr Villa Mercedes BCEnLMRSUVWaipq

an Luis Province is part of the humid pampa, particularly the eastern sector, but becomes drier the further west you go. Notwithstanding this, on closer look we discover that the province is dotted with some 200 lakes in the far south and has some very high mountains in the north interspersed with lovely valleys and palm groves. The climate is enjoyable all year round.

S

agricultural activities. Few mineral deposits are worked. San Luis is, however, a major producer of onyx

San Luis is not a very wealthy province: some cattle farms, orchards, and market farming are the

602

San Luis

SAN LUIS which is used for production of ornamental objects. Landlocked San Luis shares borders with La Pampa in the south, Mendoza in the west, San Juan in the north-west, La Rioja in the north, and Córdoba in the east. Through the center stretches the Sierra Central de San Luis. In the east it shares with Córdoba Province the Sierra de Comechingones. Most of the rivers finish in salt lakes. Many dams have been constructed to preserve the precious water and these water storage dams attract many tourists for water sports and fishing, mostly for pejerrey. San Luis Province covers 76 750 square km (29 630 square miles) with a population of 290 000. The mean annual temperature is 17°C (65°F): mean summer temperature is 23°C (74°F) and mean winter temperature is 12.6°C (56°F). Most rain falls in spring, summer and early fall; the rest of the year is dry. One of the most pleasant resorts is located on Lago Cruz de Piedra

with the four star Hotel Potrero de Los Funes on its shores. San Luis also has many hot springs, the best known being in Balde and San Gerónimo, both of which have small hotels. The major tourist areas are the capital, San Luis city, the surrounding region, and the north-eastern part near Córdoba Province at the foot of the Sierra de Comechingones. There the city of Merlo, which boasts a unique microclimate, is particularly popular. San Luis Province was founded and settled from the Chilean part of the Spanish empire. In colonial days it was renowned for its gold production. A substantial archeological site is situated near Intihuasi where the Michilingue culture once flourished, and rock paintings can be found in caves nearby. San Luis can easily be reached by road or plane from Buenos Aires, Córdoba, or Mendoza.

CAROLINA

Carolina Postal code: 5757 @ area code: dial 19 operator connected Altitude: 1610 m Distance from San Luis: 84 km north on RP 20 then RP 9

C

arolina is located in the mountainous part of San Luis in the central north. It is perched against Cerro Tomolasta (altitude 2018 m) whose volcanic origins are clearly discernible. Originally founded as San Antonio de las Invernadas, it was renamed in 1794 by the Marqués de Sobremonte to its present day name. During colonial times it was an important gold-mining center. Some of the underground mines can be visited, and even today the locals pan the rivers for gold. The remnants of a late 18th-century building which was used as a store can still be seen with a faded inscription. Carolina is also the birthplace of famous Argentine philosopher and writer Juan C. Lafinur, born 1797. 603

Carolina

CUYO PROVINCES C Accommodation Accommodation in Valle de Pancanta A Hostería Las Verbenas, RP 9, 13 km south of Carolina AEFGLMP @ 423860 $G 1

S Buses

Empresa Dasso runs four services weekly to and from San Luis, and also along the scenic drive to San Francisco del Monte de Oro.

•

s Excursions •

It is a center of an important prehistoric culture; traces of human habitation there go back 8000 years. It is in a very picturesque mountainous area. Nearby is also the archeological site of Casa Pintada and Los Morteritos sites with rock paintings. Piedra de Sololasta is a 12 m rock face some 7 km south of Gruta de Intihuasi with feline rock paintings Cañada Honda: 12 km east the locals are still panning for gold; you may try your luck too

Gruta de Intihuasi: About 16 km east on RP 10 near the junction with RP 39.

CONCARÁN

Concarán Postal code: 5770 @ area code: (02656) Altitude: 672 m Distance from San Luis: 152 km north-east on RP 20, then east on RP 10 and north-east on RN 148

C

oncarán is located 46 km south-west of Merlo in the north-eastern part of the province on the Río Conlara.

C Accommodation

S Buses

Hostería Provincial, Urquiza 913 near Avenida Gobernador Adre ACEFGHLPR @ 420238 $H 2 C Hospedaje Lizzy, HL 480103

There is a restaurant in the bus terminal. • Empresa El Oro Negro runs three services daily to San Luis and Merlo and two services daily to Villa Mercedes • T.A.C. runs three buses weekly to Libertador General San Martín on its way to San Juan

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E Eating out • • •

Comedor César Torres, Belgrano near Pedernera Confitería M. Sánchez, Pedernera near Mitre Restaurante Zabala, Avenida Gob. Adre near Plaza

p Sightseeing

•

I Telephone and telegraph •

Telephone: Cooperativa Telefónica

Concarán

604

Colección Particular de Arqueología (Archeological Private collection). Belongs to Sra Dora Ochoa de Masramon. By appointment only

SAN LUIS

LA TOMA

La Toma Population: 5800 Postal code: 5750 @ area code: (02655) Altitude: 892 m Distance from San Luis: 84 km north-east on RP 20

L

a Toma is the center of the green onyx polishing industry. This semiprecious stone comes from an open-cut mine near Santa Isabel 25 km west of town. To the south-east is the Sierra del Morro with San José del Morro.

C Accommodation

•

Hostería Provincial, Ave. 7 de Mayo near San Martín AELPV $H 2 * Hotel Don Mauricio, Pedro Graciarena 158 ACEGHLPV @ 421216 $H 2 A Residencial El Indio HLPV @ 421292 $H 2 C Hospedaje Italia, Avenida Belgrano 644 EFGHLP @ 421295 $H 2 C Hospedaje Rivero HL *

U Motoring

•

La Toma is the cheapest place to buy green onyx. Most shops and factories are located on Avenida Mármol Onix. • Marijó, Pueyrredón 962. Onyx shop and factory • Onix San Luis, Avenida Mármol Onix 175

•

Comedor Osella, Las Heras near 20 de Junio • Confitería Crash, Avenida Belgrano • Confitería Mi Club, D.H. Folco. Dancing • Confitería Tivoli, Las Heras near 25 de Mayo • Parador Minero, Avenida Mármol Onix near RP 20 Eating out in San José del Morro • Restaurant Las Tres Niñas, Sarmiento near Belgrano • Restaurant Soloa, Pedernera near Pringles

s Excursions

• •

I Telephone and telegraph

Telephone: Cooperativa Telefónica

M Services and facilities •

Y.P.F. service station, Ave. Belgrano 594

Y Shopping

E Eating out

•

° San Luis; 3 daily Sierras de Córdoba ° Córdoba via Concarán and Villa Dolores; 1 daily

Laundromat: Laverap, corner of Belgrano and RN 20

S Buses

The bus terminal is at the entrance to town. There is a restaurant at the terminal. • Cota Turismo S.A. ° Villa Mercedes; 5 weekly • El Oro Negro S.R.L.

•

605

Cerros del Rosario, 1450 m: 16 km north-west San José del Morro: 28 km east on RP 10 then south on RN 148, located in the Sierra del Morro at 1002 m. The highest mountain is Cerro Alumbre, which is 1639 m high and of volcanic origin. Rose quartz is found here. The church of San José del Morro was built around 1750. Constructed of hardwood, with thick walls and clock tower, it is now a museum. The area is of historic significance: Juan Esteban Pedernera, a former President of the early Argentine Confederation was born here. Coronel Pringles, buried in the cathedral in San Luis, was shot nearby by Facundo Quiroga’s troops La Totora, a small village 15 km south-west on RP 20 has farmhouses constructed of pink and grey granite blocks made by the stone-masons of the nearby quarries La Toma

CUYO PROVINCES

LIBERTADOR GENERAL SAN MARTÍN

Libertador General San Martín Postal code: 5755 @ area code: (02656) Altitude: 940 m Distance from San Luis: 159 km north-east on RP 20 and RP 2

L

ibertador General San Martín is known for its leather goods.

C Accommodation

•

E Eating out

•

A Hostería San Martín, ACEFGHLNPV @ 493004 $H 1 • • •

Y Shopping

Comedor Godoy, Pringles near 9 de Julio Comedor de Rubén Beriziatúa, Pringles near 9 de Julio Comedor El Progreso, Lafinur near Belgrano

•

Aparicio Godoy, Alto Grande. Leather goods Miguel Andino, La Mesilla. Leather goods

p Sightseeing

•

S Buses •

T.A.C. runs three services weekly to Concarán

Museo Arqueologico Municipal (Municipal Archeological Museum)

Trapiche S.R.L. runs six services weekly to and from San Luis

MERLO

Merlo Population: 6000 Postal code: 5881 @area code: (02656) Altitude: 890 m Distances • From Córdoba: 245 km south-east on RN 14, then RN 148 and RP 5 • From San Luis: 194 km north-east on RP 20, then RP 10, RN 148, and RP 5

M

erlo is located in the north-eastern part of the province on the western slopes of the Sierra de Comechingones. It was founded by Captain Juan de Videla in 1797 by order of the governor of Córdoba, Marqués de Sobremonte. Merlo enjoys a microclimate which makes it a tourist mecca all year round. Its average annual temperature is 20°C (65°F), and it is moderately dry throughout the year. Its microclimate is caused by an excess of negatively charged ions over

Libertador General San Martín

positively charged ions, and is confined to an area of 30 km by 3 km.

B Tourist information

•

606

Dirección de Turismo, Coronel Mercau 605 @ 476078 fax 475155; Web site:www.mercotour.com/ villademerlo

SAN LUIS

AVE. DEL NORTE

N

A Capilla Nuestr a Señor a Del Rosar io C Municipalidad D Cor r eo A r genti no E C o o p e r a t i v a Te l e f o n i c a d e M e r l o T Te r m i n a l d e B u s e s $ Banks Cas a Poeta A güer o

$ E

C

CNEL . MERCAU

PRESIDENTE PERÓN

Plaza Sobremonte

BECERRA

COMECHINGONES

LOS HUARPES

A

AVE. DEL CIPRES

J. DE VIDELA

SARGENTO BAIGORRIA

$

EL ALGARROBO

LOS ALMENDROS

PRINGLES

JUANA AZURDUY

PASAJE LOS TILOS

T JANSON

CONLARA

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

D

AVE. DEL SOL

CONLARA

AVE. DEL DEPORTE

LOS LAPACHOS

PEDERNERA

POETA CONTI

To Avenida Dos Venados

To Córdoba

POETA AGÜERO

MARQUÉS DE SOBREONTE

NEPTUNO

JUPITER CERRO CHAMPAQUI

MERLO •

•

•

Casamerlo, Teniente General Perón 10 @ 475093 Open Mon–Sun 08:00–13:00 and 15:00–20:00. Also money exchange Casamerlo in Buenos Aires has information, and can make hotel bookings

Casino, Avenida Dos Venados 1100. Parrilla • El Establo, Avenida del Sol 450 • Hotel Clima Tres, Avenida del Sol 416 • Hotel El Sol, Avenida del Sol 137. Parrilla • Hotel Flamingo, Avenida Dos Venados 941 • Hotel Parque, Avenida del Sol 821 • Imhoff, Yansón near Coronel Mercau. Bar • La Llegada, Los Almendros 500 • Latino Pub, Ave. Los Almendros 12 • Plaza, J.D. Perón 58 Confiterías • Aluminé, Avenida del Ciprés 650

D Camping Camping in El Rincón • Don Juan, RP 1 @ 475942 AEFGHLR. 30 campsites in wooded area • El Molino, RP 1 AEFGHLR

E Eating out Restaurants The specialty in Merlo is chivito con chanfaina, a dish made of goat meat. 607

Merlo

CUYO PROVINCES C Accommodation in Merlo Apart hotels

EGLP • Piscu Yaco, Avenida del Sol 231 Web site: www.mercotour.com/pisuyaco

Hotels Casablanca, Avenida del Sol 50 Fax 475320 *** Parque, Avenida del Sol 821 Fax 475111 *** Valle del Sol, Champaqui near Conti *** Villa de Merlo, Pedernera ** Clima Tres, Avenida del Sol 416 Two meals ** Flamingo, Avenida Dos Venados 941 Two meals * Colonial, Ave. Dos Venados 706 * Contilo, Poeta Conti near Los Tilos Fax 475000 • Paradiso Hotel, Ave. del Sol 1389 Web site: www.paradisohotel.com/ ***

@

475187/475419 $G/H 1

@

475084

$E

@ @ ACDEFGHJKLNPTUVY @ AEFGJLPRTUV @ AEFGJLPUV @ AELPV @ AELPV @

475110 476272 475335

$E/F 2 $F/G 2 $E/F 1

475297

$F

475446 475388

$F 2 $G/H 2

475293

$F/G 2

@

475118 fax

$E/F

2

@ @

475121 475168

$F $I

2 1

@ @ @ @

475208 fax 475041 475740 475195

$G/H $G/H $G/H $G/H

2 2 2 2

$G/H $H $G $G $H

2 2 2 2 2

$H

2

ACDEFGHJKLPTUVY ACDEFGHJKLPTUVY

Hosterías

Bosque Alegre, Los Almendros 1008 AELPV C Egle, P Lugones CEFGHLV

*

2

2

Motels * * * *

Algarrobo, Ave. del Sol 1120 ABELPV Web site: www.mercotour.com/hotelalgarrobo/ Altas Cumbres, Avenida del Sol 61 AELPV Provincial, Ave. Dos Venados 1277 AELPV 78, Avenida Los Deportes 549 ABELPV

Residenciales

Argentino, Los Almendros 110 ACEGHLPSV @ 475825 Conlara, Avenida del Deporte 437 AEGHKLNP @ 475183 Mirasierras, Pedernera near Avenida del Sol AEGHLNPRS @ 475045 Plaza, J de Videla 49 ACHLPS @ 475159 Amancay, Avenida del Sol 500 LPS @ 475311 Web site: www.mercotour.com/villademerlo/alojamientos.html B Castelar, Avenida Comechingones 21 AEGLS @ 475206 A A A A B

Hospedajes

@ @ @

475327 475205 475193

$I $I $H $G $H

1 2 2 2 2

AEFGHJLPRSTUV AEFGHLPRSV

@

475103 fax

$G $F

1 2

ALP L

@

475306

$G $H

2 2

C El Castaño, Avenida del Sol 584 C La Llegada, Avenida Los Almendros 495 C Oviedo, Coronel Mercau 799 C Sierras Verdes, Avenida del Sol 458 C Villegas, Avenida Los Césares 1496

Accommodation in sector Rincón del Este Hotels ** *

El Cóndor, 2 meals El Rincón,

Residenciales

A San Luis, B Mercedes, Ave de Los Césares 2204

Merlo

608

SAN LUIS Accommodation in Merlo — continued Hospedajes

• El Molino, El Rincón

$I

1

Accommodation in Sector Piedra Blanca Hotels **

Piedra Blanca, Avenida de los Incas 3000 Full board ACEFGHKLMPRTV

Hosterías ** *

Choay, Avenida de los Incas 2505 AEFGLPS Del Virrey, Avenida de los Incas AEFLPS Web page: www.hosteriadelvirrey.com/

@

475226 fax

$F

1

@

475240

$H

1

@

475542 fax

$H

1

475326 475611

$D $E/F

Accommodation in Sector Chumamaya Chumamaya is a district of Merlo.

ABCEHLPR • Chumamaya Country Club, Web site: www.mercotour.com/chumamayafassi/ @ • Cabañas Oásis de La Camelia, Avenida Dos Venados 1000 @

•

L Financial

Blue Moon, Coronel Mercau 677. Bowling • Cunto, Coronel Mercau 625 • Los Almendros, Los Almendros 92 • Yungulo, Coronel Mercau 655 Eating out in Chumamaya • Country Club Chumamaya tourist complex, Avenida Dos Venados 900 Eating out in Piedra Blanca Restaurants • El Manantial, Avenida de los Incas 336. Parrilla • Hotel Piedra Blanca, Avenida Norte. Parrilla • La Galería, Avenida de los Incas 2328 Eating out in Rincón del Este • Hotel El Cóndor • Hotel El Rincón • La Rueca

•

•

•

•

Laundromat: Laverap, Coronel Mercau 925 Photographic supplies: Color Merlo, Pbro. Becerra 506

N Clubs

•

Casa de la Cultura, Poeta Agüero 380

U Motoring

Service station: A.C.A., Poeta Agüero 391

Y Shopping

The area is rich in semiprecious stones, which are cut and polished in the district. • Onyx Palmero, J.D. Perón 74 on the Plaza • Semiprecious stones: Casa de las Piedras, Avenida del Sol 51 • Wood carvings: Ver-Mer, Avenida del Sol 107

Casino Dos Venados, Avenida Dos Venados 1300 Roka’s Disco, Avenida Dos Venados near Casino

a Sport

•

I Post and telegraph •

Banco de la Provincia de San Luis, Pbro. Becerra 680 @ 475129

M Services and facilities

•

n Entertainment •

8 2

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Coronel Mercau 570 Telephones: Cooperativa Telefónica Merlo, J de Videla 112

•

Swimming: Municipal swimming pool, Avenida del Deporte 702 Tennis: Club Casino Tenis, Poeta Agüero 1099 Aero Club Merlo, RP 1 @ 475040

p Sightseeing

•

609

Capilla de la Virgen del Rosario (Chapel of the Virgin of the Rosary): This Merlo

CUYO PROVINCES S Buses from Merlo

The bus terminal is in Pringles 535 near Pasaje Los Tilos @ 475157 Provincial bus services • T.A.P. ° Piedra Blanca ° Barrio Parque ° Cerro de Oro • Ciudad de Merlo ° Santa Rosa (1 2 hour); 6 weekly ° Papagayos (1 hour) via Los Molles, Cortadera, and Villa Larca; 12 weekly • Empresa Virgen del Rosario ° El Rincón; 1 daily ° Piedra Blanca; 1 daily • El Oro Negro, San Luis, Italia 1557 @ 424045/425248 ° Tilisarao (21 2 hrs) via Carpinteria, Los Molles, Villa Larca, El Recuerdo, Papagayos, and Concarán (2 hrs); 2–6 weekly ° Naschel (3 hrs) via Carpintería, Los Molles, Cortaderas, Villa Larca, Papagayos, Villa del Carmen (13 4 hrs); La Suiza, and Cuatro Esquinas; 4 weekly • El Serrano ° Buenos Aires (12 hrs) • Empresa El Petizo ° Córdoba via Mina Clavero; 1–2 daily • Expreso Jocoli ° Buenos Aires (12 hrs) ° Mendoza via San Luis ($12.00); 5 daily ° Córdoba • Sierras de Córdoba ° Córdoba via Mina Clavero; 1–2 daily •

chapel is older than the town itself and was completed in 1740. The walls of the chapel are nearly 1 m thick, and inside are pictures painted during the same era possibly of the Cuzco school

s Excursions

For information on excursions from Merlo inquire at the Dirección de Turismo. Some easy to medium mountain climbs can be reached from Merlo. Adventure tour operators • Mauro Busto @ 475824 and Fabián Carrizo @ 476714: mountain-biking, trekking the Sierra de Comechingones, and bird-watching • Sra. Amanda Becerra organizes day tours and half-day tours in and around Merlo @ 475541; e-mail: [email protected] Guides charge about $25.00 for half day tours and about $50.00 for day tours. Excursions Many excursions can be made by using public transport.

Merlo

•

•

•

610

El Rincón: About 6 km east in the Sierra de Comechingones at 1500 m. Follow the Río Molino to arrive at the Salto del Tabaquillo (15 m). Near the small dam there is a camping ground, and it is possible to swim in the lake. Mountaineers can continue on a path to Río El Manzano and Las Cañas via Cuesta El Mogote Bayo. Both rivers are stocked with trout and there is a lot of birdlife. Empresa Virgen del Rosario runs 1 service daily Pasos Malos: 7 km north-east. You can walk to the Cascada Olvidada in 2 hours. It is surrounded by high mountains and there are scenic views from 1680 m. Mountaineers can continue to Cerro de la Oveja at 2350 m through the Cuesta de Pasos Malos Cuesta de Cerro de Oro: 5 km south. It leads to Cerro Aspero. There is a tungsten mine nearby. Frequent daily buses by Ciudad de Merlo El Talar: A natural beach 12 km south, near Los Molles. Frequent daily buses by Ciudad de Merlo

SAN LUIS •

A day tour further south as far as Villa del Carmen can be made using the public bus services

PARQUE NACIONAL SIERRA DE LAS QUIJADAS

T

his national park was created in 1991. This mountain massif only reaches 1200 m but in the valleys the strata tell the story of its million-year evolution. Of interest are of course the remains of prehistoric animals embedded in the rocks and sandstone formations.

RN 147 from San Luis to San Juan runs from San Antonio onwards along the eastern side of the Sierra de Las Quijadas. The whole sierra or 150 000 ha (370 650 acres) of this wild mountain range has been declared a national park. The most scenic parts can be accessed from Hualtarán north of the village of San Antonio on RN 147 about 126 km north-west of San Luis. Another access is from La Tranca on RN 20. This is a semi-arid area although water can be found in isolated spots. Wind and water erosion have created deep valleys and the sheer cliffs bare the geological formation and age of this mountain range. One canyon has been dubbed “El Pequeño Cañon del Colorado” because it is reminiscent of the Grand Canyon. In the centre of the Sierra de Las Quijadas is a huge basin, the Potrero de La Aguada. This natural amphitheater has a narrow outlet. At Guanacache there is

some water which attracts waterbirds and there are also otters living there. Because of its isolation and difficult access this used to be the hideout of those seeking refuge from justice. The many cow jawbones (“quijadas”) found there have given this area its name. The mountains are of reddish-grey color. Traces of human occupation go back 4000 years. The Huarpes Indians left their traces in the form of clay stoves. The wildlife includes peccaries, guanacos, grey foxes, and weasels. It is of interest to geologists; dinosaur fossils have been found. This is an area for the outdoor enthusiast. It is best reached by buses traveling from San Luis to San Juan. For geology and archeology buffs the Universidad de San Luis organizes field trips to this national park. For further information contact Sr. David Rivarola @ 423789 or e-mail: [email protected].

611

Merlo

CUYO PROVINCES

PUEBLOS DE LA COSTA

Pueblos de la Costa

P

ueblos de la Costa is a collective name for a string of small settlements along the western side of the Sierra de Comechingones — the “Costa” — stretching from Piedra Blanca on the Córdoba border to La Punilla. All of them are either on or a short distance off RP 1. As the logical starting point is Merlo I have listed them in north–south order, with some nearby resorts included under Merlo (page 606).

Villa Elena

Papagayos. These palm groves are yet to be declared a national park. Empresa Ciudad de Merlo and El Oro Negro run 2–3 services daily to and from Merlo and Concarán.

23 km south of Merlo 2 km off RP 1 on the western slopes of the Sierra de Comechingones. It is the starting point for hikes into the Valle Cortadera where there is a gorge with a clear mountain stream and forest.

La Estanzuela Formerly a Jesuit estancia, which was the home of Spanish general Marco del Pont, the last governor of Chile, until his death in 1821.

Villa del Carmen 70 km south of Merlo on RP 1 which runs along the western periphery of the Sierra de Comechingones.

Villa Larca Altitude 1042 m, located 35 km south of Merlo on RP 1. This scenic road continues further south along the western rim of the Sierra de Comechingones, which is here at its highest elevation.

Papagayos 35 km south of Merlo on RP 1. This exotic palm grove is located in the middle of the mountains. The locals produce artefacts such as hats, ornaments and wallets from palm fibre. The biggest concentrations of caranday palms are near Rincón de

C Accommodation in Pueblos de la Costa Accommodation in Villa Larca • Hostería La Puesta del Sol,

EGHLPSV

$I

1

$I

2

Accommodation in Papagayos C Hospedaje Elias,

Accommodation in Villa del Carmen *

Hostería Provincial,

Accommodation in Villa Elena Hotel Villa Elena Hostería Magdalena • Hostería Posada del Sol, • Hostal La Quebrada,

* *

Pueblos de la Costa

AEFGHLPSV

$H @ cabina pública 491002

2

AEFLNPRSV ACEFGHLNPRS AEFGHLNPRV PS

@ @ @

2 1 1 1

612

480357/056 475307 420017

$F $G $H $H

SAN LUIS

QUINES

Quines Postal code: 5711 @ area code: (02651) Altitude: 481 m Distance from San Luis: 143 km north-west on RN 146

Q

uines is the center of date palm plantations in the extreme north. Five km south are the thermal springs of Baños del Zapallar. The villagers are skilful weavers of material with rustic designs.

Candelaria

•

Candelaria is located 22 km north of Quines at the intersection of RN 79 and RP 4. Buses between La Rioja and San Luis pass through this town. Empresa Dasso has three services daily to and from San Luis.

Eating out in Luján • Restaurant Siso, entrance to town • Club Recreativo Dique Luján, Calle del Centenario • Confitería Quijnovit

S Buses

Luján

Buses from Quines, Luján and Candelaria Empresa Dasso Buses runs three services daily to and from San Luis; there is a service once a week to La Rioja passing through Luján.

Luján is located 19 km south of Quines at the intersection of RN 20 and RN 146. The town’s focal point is the Plaza San Martín with the picturesque Iglesia San Juan Bautista. Buses between San Juan and Córdoba pass through here.

Y Shopping

•

Sra. Juanita Etchegaray, homespun material • Regionales Domínguez, Granadero Figueroa 335 Shopping in Luján • Artesanías Guevara, Teniente Cnel Loyola. Ceramics

E Eating out • • •

Comedor Puntero, San Martín on Plaza Lafinur Restaurant Heredia, Pringles near 9 de Julio Confitería Zammaka, 9 de Julio on Plaza Lafinur

C Accommodation in Quines Hostería Provincial de Quines A Hotel Floriani C Hotel Magnano

*

Accommodation in Candelaria Hostería Provincial C Hospedaje Difunta Correa

*

Accommodation in Luján Hostería Luján del SMATA • Hotel Luján

**

Confitería D.C, Belgrano near Córdoba. Dancing

AEFGLPSV AEFGHLP EFGHL

@ @

470253 470137

@

493001

$G $H

2 2

$I

2

AELPS EFGLP APS

613

Quines

CUYO PROVINCES

SAN FRANCISCO DEL MONTE DE ORO Population: Postal code: 5705 @ area code: (02651) Altitude: 776 m Distance from San Luis: 110 km north on RN 146

S

an Francisco del Monte de Oro is located in the wide valley of the Río San Francisco at the foot of the Sierra de Michilingue. The river divides the town: the southern half is the older part with narrow streets and colonial houses. Nearby is the narrow gorge Quebrada de López and Balneario El Palmar. Also worth a visit is Punta del Agua, with walnut plantations and gorges with crystal-clear water. The house where Juan Domingo Sarmiento taught class at the age of 15 is a national shrine.

C Accommodation

•

Hostería San Francisco, Ave. Centenario Sur AELPV @ 425699/429415 $G 2 B Ayelen, Belgrano near Pringles L @ 46223 $H 2 B Hotel Martín, Sarmiento 628 EFGHLP @ 46140 $H 2 *

S Buses

Buses run regularly to San Luis.

U Motoring

•

D Camping •

• •

Y.P.F. service station

Y Shopping

Camping Laguna Esteco, RN 146 10 km south of town, river frontage.; capacity: 30 tents in a forested area $J per tent

Most souvenir shops are located near Pringles. • Artesanía en Maderas San Luis, Belgrano near 25 de Mayo. Wood carvings

E Eating out •

Disco La Mirage, Avenida Centenario near San Martín

s Excursions

Comedor La Porteñita, Avenida Sarmiento near 25 de Mayo Comedor Santo Domingo, San Martín near Sarmiento Cafetería Curi, Rivadavia. Bar

•

Quebrada de los Rayos is located 5 km east near the village of Río Juan Gómez. Of interest are the 13 large rock paintings

n Entertainment •

Disco Casablanca, Belgrano near Centenario

SAN LUIS

San Luis Population: 115 000 Postal code: 5700 @ area code: (02652) Altitude: 710 m Distances • From Buenos Aires: 820 km west on RN 7 • From Mendoza: 260 km east on RN 7 San Luis

614

SAN LUIS

S

an Luis, the capital of San Luis Province, is located at the southern end of the Sierra Central de San Luis. It was founded in 1594 by José Jufre by order of the governor of Chile, Martín de Loyola.

From its very beginning the town had a checkered history: the first foundation had insufficient water resources. The next foundation was too close to the Río Chorrillos and often was inundated. As well as the natural disasters came a constant threat from a very bellicose native population which constantly attacked the settlement; in 1711 the town was sacked and destroyed. In 1820 it became provincial capital. Despite its modern appearance it has retained a colonial aspect, particularly because of the low houses. The historic center is around Plaza Pringles with an equestrian statue of the independence hero; the neo-classical cathedral on the east side of the plaza was begun in 1883 but completed in 1903. The remains of the independence hero Coronel Pringles are in a side nave. Many streets are lined with trees. The climate is temperate and dry; the maximum temperature in January is 43°C (106°F); the minimum temperature in July is –10°C (14°F). Annual precipitation is 573mm; rain comes normally in short bursts. The chorillero is a cold easterly wind.

for the inhabitants and to irrigate the fields. The town council has established a new municipal campsite with eight thermal baths, located in Avenida Esteban Agüero. Empresa Dasso runs 1–2 services daily to San Luis.

Beazley Beazley is located 58 km south of San Luis on RN 146. The main highway to San Rafael in Mendoza Province passes mostly through dry country. Empresa Dasso runs four services weekly to San Luis.

San Gerónimo San Gerónimo is located 26 km north-west on RP 147 in a very dry zone. Its only tourist attraction is the strong thermal springs which help arthritis and rheumatic disorders. T.A.C. runs three services weekly to and from San Luis.

B Tourist information

• •

Subsecretaría de Estado de Turismo, Avenida Illia 555 near Junín @ 423859 fax 426836/427046 Dirección Provincial de Ecología y Forestación, Falucho 815 @ 425028 fax 424403. Information on provincial reserves

E Eating out

Balde

Restaurants • Argentino, Avenida Illia 352 • Brujas, Rivadavia 1073 • Club Telefónico, Belgrano 971. Parrilla • El Balcón Asador, Junín 789 • El Cantón de Neufchatel, San Martín 745 • El Colonial, Pedernera 1460 • El Fogón, J.A. Roca 1515. Parrilla • El Lugar, Pringles 830 • El Palenque, Chile 1460 • El Rodeo, Colón 929

Balde is located 34 km west of San Luis in arid country reached on RP 7 and then RP 15; it has thermal water which emerges at 43°C (110°F) and has medicinal properties. Gobernador Dupuy constructed here in 1817 a military post to facilitate communications with Mendoza. A small dam was also constructed to secure water supply

615

San Luis

CUYO PROVINCES To Airport

To San Juan

T

7

AV E. ES PA ÑA

CHACABUCO

22 21

UAY

18

LA VA LL E 23

20

25 24 PED ERN ERA

26

C

D

28

E

To Córdoba

ÍA

20 R.O . DE L UR UG

To Trapiche

P

AVE . SUC RE

19

GÓ

RO

IT U Z A IN

17

ILL

YE N

TU

H . YR IG O

AR

LA S H ER AS

BO LÍV AR 14 15 16

13

MAIPÚ

11 12

JO F R E

COLÓN

E.

TOMÁS

RIVADAVIA

9 10

AV

OW N

146

SAN MARTÍN

MITRE

CASEROS

CONSTITUCIÓN

FA LU C H O

AVE. LAFINUR

8

AL M TE . BR

RA C T

6 5

CHILE

FRANCIA

ITALIA

To El Portezuelo and Represa El Carmen

AVE. EJERCITO DE LOS ANDES 4

2

1

JU ST O DA

3 16

30

27 29

I

31

R. DEL LÍBANO JUNÍN Plaza Pringles

32

35 34

$

36

A

PRINGLES 33 40 43 41 44 42 BE LG RA NO

39 37

38

45

$

46

AYACUCHO 47 9 DE JULIO Plaza Independenc ia 48

25 DE MAYO 49 50

51

52 7

Cemetary

B

A IR E UENOS

S

53

AV E . J. A .

ROCA

To Mendoza

55 7

To San Rafael

7

San Luis

R

orr ío Ch

N

illos 3

SAN LUIS To Zanjitas

616

To Mercedes and Buenos Aires

BA LC AR CE 54

SAN LUIS Key to map A B C D E H I P $ T

Catedral Palacio de Gobierno Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica de Argentina Hospital Subsecretaría de Estado de Turismo A.C.A. Banco de Galicia Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 2 3 5 6 9 11 13 14 18 19 21 26 29 31 37 38 41 43

• • • • • • • • •

Hospedaje San Antonio Hotel Iguazú Hospedaje Los Andes Hospedaje Rivadavia Hospedaje 17 Hotel Quintana Hotel Gran San Luis Hotel Mitre Hostal Hotel Hospedaje Nani Hotel Aiello Hotel Gran España Hotel Dos Venados Hotel Regidor Hotel Castelmonte Hotel Huarpes Hospedaje Casablanca Hotel Gran Palace Hotel Comesa

52 Hospedaje María Eugenia 53 Hotel César I 54 Residencial Buenos Aires

4 Eating out 4 7 15 16 20 23 24 28 30 32 33 40 46 48 55

Restaurant Terminal Restaurant El Palenque Restaurant Suany Restaurant Brujas Restaurant El Colonial Cafetería Jonas Restaurant La Cantina de Cacho Restaurant El Triángulo Restaurant La Porteña Restaurant El Cantón de Neuchatel Restaurant El Lugar Cafetería Ocean Restaurant Club Telefónico Cafetería Café Bar Champagne Restaurant El Fogón

5 Entertainment

39 Disco Jiakopos 47 Cafetería El Ministerio

6 Airline offices

7 Tour operators and car rental 10 Avis 12 A1 42 Dasso Viajes

9 Sights 8

Museo Privado de Sciencias Naturales e Investigaciones Ornitologicas “Guillermo Hudson” 49 Archivo Histórico y Administrativo de la Provincia 51 Iglesia Santo Domingo

0 Services 17 22 25 27 35 36 44 45 50

Laverap Alpataco Dry cleaner Dirección Provincial de Ecología y Forestación Casa de Cambio Alituris Laverap Golf Club San Luis Laverap Fábrica de Alfombras San Martín de Porres

34 Andesmar and Austral

El Triángulo, Caseros 866 Gran Hotel San Luis, Avenida Illia 470 La Cantina de Cacho, San Martín 940 La Porteña, Junín 696 near General Paz. Pizzas Mitchell, Avenida Lafinur near Avenida España San Antonio, Ejercicio de Los Andes 1600 near Avenida España Suany, Bolívar 989 Terminal, at the bus terminal Venezia, Pringles near Chacabuco

Eating out in El Chorrillo • La Escondida, RP 20 KM 10. Parrilla • Las Tejas, RP 20 KM 6. Parrilla • Piro’s, RP 20 Puente Blanco. Parrilla Eating out on RN 7 east Restaurants • El Chacho, Playa de Miramar near San Juan. Parrilla and peña Eating out in Balde • Restaurant Doña Pilucha, Avenida Pringles

n Entertainment

Cafeterías • Aranjuez, Pringles near Rivadavia; 24 hours • Café Bar Champagne, 9 de Julio 857 • El Foro, Rivadavia near 9 de Julio • El Ministerio, San Martín 400. Bar • Jonas, Chacabuco 960 • Look, Avenida Illia 370 • Ocean, San Martín 698 near Pringles • Palace Hotel, Rivadavia 657 • The Pippa’s Pub, Avenida España near Chile. Bar

•

Casino Dos Venados, Chumamaya 1400 • Disco Jiakopos, Chacabuco 671 near Pringles • Disco Para Ti Club, Avenida Illia 471 Entertainment in El Chorillo • Disco Boykot, RP 20, El Chorrillo • Disco Flay, RP 20 KM 11

617

San Luis

CUYO PROVINCES C Accommodation in San Luis

There are cheap hotels in the vicinity of the bus terminal. Hotels **** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** * * * * * * *

Quintana, Avenida Presidente Illia 546 @ ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Aiello, Avenida Presidente Illia 431 ACDEFGJKLMPTUVY @ Dos Venados, Presidente Perón near República del Líbano Fax 422503 ACDEFGJKLMPTUVY @ Gran España, Avenida Presidente Illia 300 Fax 437707 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Gran San Luis, Avenida Presidente Illia 470 Fax 430148 ACDEFGJKLMPTUVY @ Regidor, San Martín 848 ACDEFGJKLMPTUVY @ Comesa, Colón 657 ACEGJKLPTUV @ Huarpes, Belgrano 1568 ACEFGJLMNPUV @ Castelmonte, Chacabuco 769 AEFGLPUV @ César I, Falucho 163 AEFGLPUV @ Gran Palace, Rivadavia 657 AEFGKLPTUV @ Iguazú, Avenida Ejercito de los Andes 1582 AELPV @ Inca Hotel, Bolívar 943 AELPV @ Inti Huasi, La Pampa 815 AEGLPSV @ Mitre, Mitre 1043 AEGLPUV @

Residenciales

@

A Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires 834

438400 fax

$E

2

425609

$F

2

422312

$F

2

437700

$F/G 2

425049 424756 422996 425597 fax 424963 420483 435247 fax 422129 424923 438041 424599

$F $E/F $G $F $F/G $G/H $F $H $G $H $G/H

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

426104

$H

2

422033 430361

$H $H/I

2 2

422437 423206

$H $H

2 2

423387 423584 422717

$H/I $H $H/I

2 2 2

424062

Hospedajes

A Estudiante, Estado de Israel ALP @ A Los Andes, Ejercicio de los Andes 1180, near the bus terminal ALP @ A María Eugenia, 25 de Mayo 471 ALP @ A Rivadavia, Estado de Israel 1070, Opposite the bus terminal ALP @ B Casablanca, Belgrano 1406 L @ B 17, Estado del Israel 1476, Opposite the bus terminal L @ B Nani, Bolívar 321 L @ B San Antonio, Avenida Lafinur near España L @

Accommodation in Las Chacras Las Chacras is located on RP 20, 16 km north-east of San Luis ***

Hotel Sierras,

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Accommodation in Balde

A Hostería Termas Villa de Balde ER Thermal water • Hospedaje Orozco, Avenida Pringles F

Accommodation in San Géronimo Hostería La Perseveranza C Pensión Martín C Hospedaje El Paisanito

*

Accommodation in Beazley C Hospedaje Quiroga

San Luis

AEFGLPRV EFGHLV

EFGL

618

@

426502

$I

2

@

422921

$J

1

@

431664

$H

1

SAN LUIS S Buses from San Luis

The bus terminal is on España 950 near Estado de Israel. Companies operating from terminal • Andesmar @ 422678 ° Bahía Blanca (12 hrs) via Santa Rosa and Mar del Plata • Autotransporte Dupuy S.R.L. ° Unión (5 hrs) via Villa Mercedes; 3 weekly • Autotransporte San Juan Mar del Plata @ 424998 ° Buenos Aires via Villa Mercedes (11 4 hrs) and Río Cuarto; 1 daily ° Córdoba; 1–2 daily ° San Juan via Mendoza • Colta @ 425248 • El Cóndor ° Catamarca via La Rioja • Empresa del Sur y Media Agua, local 21 @ 421644 ° Villa Mercedes (11 4 hrs); 1 daily • Empresa El Rápido @ 436006 • Expreso Uspallata @ 436292 • Expreso Jocolí @ 420716 ° Mendoza ° Merlo ($12.00; 61 2 hrs); 1 daily ° Villa Mercedes ( $6.00; 1 hour); 1daily • T.A. Chevallier @ 424937 ° Buenos Aires via Villa Mercedes and Río Cuarto; 3 daily ° Villa Mercedes ($6.00); 5 daily • T.A.C., local 15/17 @ 432110/424021 ° Córdoba via Villa Dolores and Mina Clavero ° Represa del Carmen via San Gerónimo, San Isidro, La Calera, Santa Rosa; 3 weekly ° San Juan via Mendoza ° Villa Mercedes ($6.00, 1 hour); 5 daily • Ticsa SA @ 424651 ° Bariloche via Neuquén; 4 weekly ° Viedma via Santa Rosa (La Pampa) and Bahía Blanca • Transporte La Cumbre @ 427474 Companies with own terminal • Empresa Dasso, Tomás Yofré 590 @ 425386 ° Beazley (1 hour); 4 weekly ° Candelaria (31 2 hrs) via San Francisco del Monte de Oro (2 hrs), Luján, and Quines (3 hrs); 3 daily Carolina (41 2 hrs); 4 weekly ° ° Hypólito Yrigoyen (formerly Nogolí, 1 hour) via Villa la Quebrada; 6 weekly ° Lomas Blancas (33 4 hrs) via Villa General Roca (2 hrs); 2 weekly ° Salinas del Bebedero (1 hour) via Balde; 1–2 daily • Autotransporte San Luis S.A., Centenario 250 @ 422942 ° Las Chacras via San Roque and Cruz de Piedra; 1–2 daily • El Oro Negro, Italia 1557 @ 424045/425248 ° El Volcán via San Roque, Las Chacras, and Potreros de Funes; daily frequent services ° Merlo via El Volcán, Saladillo, La Toma, Naschel, Tilisarao, Concarán, Santa Rosa; 3 daily

619

San Luis

CUYO PROVINCES Buses from San Luis — continued •

Trapiche S.R.L., Córdoba 78 @ 422516/420716 ° Riocito via San Roque, El Volcán, El Amparo, Trapiche, La Florida; 1–3 daily ° Libertador General San Martín via La Toma; 6 weekly ° Libertador General San Martín via La Toma and Tilisarao; 3 weekly

Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Buenos Aires $47.50 Catamarca $40.00 Córdoba $40.00 La Rioja $32.50 Mar del Plata $52.50 Mendoza $15.40 Río Cuarto $12.00 Rosario $36.00 San Juan $18.00 San Rafael $16.00 Santa Rosa (La Pampa) $30.00 Villa Dolores $11.00

Duration 12 hrs 61 4hrs 14 hrs 3 hrs 11 hrs 3 daily 1 daily 71 2 hrs

I Post and telegraph

•

•

•

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, San Martín near Avenida Illia, on Plaza Pringles Telefónica de Argentina, Colón 951

U Motoring

Service station: A.C.A., Constitución 401 near Avenida Illia @ 23188 Car rental • Localiza, Chacabuco 580 @ 438500 • A1 Rent a Car, Gran Hotel San Luis, Ave. Illia 470 @ 440288 fax 430148 • Avis, Hotel Quintana, Italia 546 @ 429548

L Financial • •

Casa de Cambio Alituris, Colón 737; open daily from 08:00–12:30 Banco de Galicia, Belgrano 901 @ 428129. ATM

M Services and facilities •

Y Shopping

Dry cleaner: Rivadavia 978 Laundromats • Laverap, Colón 624

The largest concentration of souvenir shops is in Avenida Illia and Pringles. • Alpataco, Lavalle 1380. Wood carvings • Fábrica de Alfombras San Martín de Porres, 25 de Mayo 955. Carpets • Hugo Saavedra, Las Heras near Avenida Perón. Wood carvings • Mercado Artesanal, Avenida Illia near Junín

R Air services

The airport is 3 km from town. • Andesmar, Colón 733 @ 423407/428126 fax Services • Buenos Aires (11 4 hrs); 5 weekly; Austral • Catamarca ($125.00; 2 1 4 hrs); 3 weekly; Andesmar • Córdoba ($64.00; 3 4 hrs); 3 weekly; Andesmar • Rosario ($130.00; 41 2 hrs); 3 weekly; Andesmar • Salta ($174.00; 81 2 hrs); 3 weekly; Andesmar San Luis

Tucumán ($141.00; 71 2 hrs); 3 weekly; Andesmar

a Sport Golf • Golf Club San Luis, Colón 619 @ 426283. The actual golf course is in Cruz de Piedra; see page 624

620

SAN LUIS Horse racing • Jockey Club San Luis, Ave. Justo Daract Norte @ 423639

p Sightseeing • •

•

•

•

On the hill overlooking the town is a Via Crucis. The Stations of the Cross are sculpted in white marble Museo Cultural “Dora Ochoa de Masramon” (Dora Ochoa de Masramon Cultural Museum), Ayacucho near Colón. Incorporates the Centro Cultural “Victor Sáa” (Victor Sáa Cultural Center). This museum covers archeology, history, and natural sciences. It has interesting archeological objects recovered from the Bajo Veliz archeological site and provides an overview of all archeological sites in the province. Of interest are also the costumes from the Spanish colonial period and the documents relating to the historical development of the province and its contribution to the Wars of Independence Museo Privado de Sciencias Naturales e Investigaciones Ornitologicas “Guillermo Hudson” (William Hudson Private Natural Science Museum and Bird Research Center), Avenida España 1485. Collection of regional fauna species and specialized library Archivo Histórico y Administrativo de La Provincia (Provincial Historic and Administrative Archives), 25 de Mayo 971. Housed in the original Santo Domingo church built in 1838; its walls are 1 m thick. Next to it is the new Dominican church built in arabesque style and dedicated to the Virgen del Rosario del Trono. The image of Nuestra Señora Hispánica was brought from Chile

s Excursions Tour operators • Dasso Viajes, Rivadavia 615 @ 421017 fax; and at the bus terminal Excursions San Luis is the starting point for several scenic drives into the Sierras de San Luis. • Suyuque Viejo: 23 km north on RP 3. Here is a Benedictine convent in an

621

idyllic little valley perched against a small mountain. Seven km further on is Suyeque Nuevo, the starting point for hikes in the Cerro Retana area; 2130 m. Trapiche: This 43 km scenic drive starts on Plaza Pringles. This brings you through many small villages and mountain resort towns located in pristine valleys and passing through gorges with crystal-clear water and past some artificial lakes. At KM 3 you go past the Centro Cultural Puente Blanco where conferences and expositions are held. At KM 4 is the intersection with RN 147. Here is the beginning of the plush suburb of Juana Koslay, formerly known as El Chorrillo, with many good restaurants. You are now on RP 20. At KM 9 you go past the Centro Cultural de San Luis and the Estadio El Ave Fénix (“Phoenix Bird Stadium”), a modern sports complex. At KM 11 you arrive at the suburb of San Roque. Here is the turnoff to Las Chacras with the Monumento Histórico Nacional (National Historic Monument) built in the form of an amphitheater. It was built in honor of the volunteer army recruited in San Luis which fought under San Martín in the liberation wars of South America between 1806 and 1820, in particular in Peru. One third of the male population of San Luis responded to the call to arms. A worthwhile detour of 2 km one way. Continuing on RP 20 you pass the Juana Koslay town hall and the turnoff to Hotel Sierras at KM 12. Here is the turnoff to Potrero de los Funes using RP 18. Continuing on RP 20 you pass the turnoff to Dique and Embalse Cruz de Piedra. Here the Golf Club San Luis has its 9-hole golf course. At KM 14 the Cuesta del Gato starts, a 3 km very winding and scenic part leading uphill until you arrive at KM 17 in El Volcán. Just before crossing the Río El Volcán bridge there is a turnoff to Dique Cruz de Piedra, an alternative road back to San Luis. From El Volcán onwards you continue on RP 9. At KM 19 you pass Salto Colorado with the nearby camping ground and cabañas. The

San Luis

CUYO PROVINCES

•

•

next 7 km to the village of Amparo you have vistas to the main range with peaks such as Cerro Quijada and Cerro Valle de Piedra (1935 m). Just outside Amparo is a 3 km turnoff to El Durazno. Continuing on RP 9 you pass over the Arroyo La Barranquita bridge at KM 34. One km before El Trapiche is a 6 km turnoff to La Florida on the east side of Embalse La Florida. At KM 39 there is a tourist information kiosk and vistas of the Embalse La Florida. This is already the beginning of the town. After crossing several bridges you are in Trapiche’s town center. See Also Trapiche on page 624 Some tour operators include on the return journey from Trapiche Dique Potrero de los Funes and the scenic Quebrada de los Condores. Usually also Estancia Grande and El Durazno are included; these are farms which date from the colonial period and are located in the mountainous country around Cerro Quijada, whose height is 1640 m For archeology buffs a continuation to Carolina and the nearby Gruta Inca Huasi is recommended. The trip continues, going around Embalse La Florida on RP 39; the turnoff into RP 39 is 6 km south of Trapiche. At KM 49 you arrive in the little township of La Florida. At KM 54 begins Pampa del Tamboreo. This is an undulating high altitude plain for 5 km. At KM 59 is El Refugio, a homestead. At KM 69 is La Arenilla, also a homestead. From here onwards the land holdings are surrounded with small rock walls so-called pircas; glimpses of Cerro Sololasta ahead. Shortly after La Arenilla there is a turnoff to La Angostura. As the name implies it is a fairly narrow gap in the mountain. About one km east are some rock paintings. Continuing on RP 39 north you arrive at KM 67 in Paso del Rey a small mountain village with an old colonial church. The road passes now through a forested valley with more

San Luis

•

•

• •

622

pircas and a mountain stream along the road. The road fords this little river several times. At KM 87 you arrive at the archeological site of Intihuasi,, a large cave which has been used by the indigenous people as a shelter for more than 8000 years. Two kilometers further north is the road junction with RP 10. Turn east into RP 10. At KM 92 instead of going straight on to Carolina a small detour of 10 km is suggested into Cañada Honda. Getting there involves fording a creek several times. At Cañada Honda are also rock paintings. You regain RP 10 at KM 96 turning west. At KM 103 you arrive in Carolina which is at the intersection of RP 10 with RP 9. The above trip to Carolina is a full day round trip with a tour operator. A suggested return is through the scenic Valle Pancanta and Los Tapiales, where there is a monolith to Coronel Pringles. This can also be done with a tour operator. However, there are regular bus services to Carolina and accommodation for those who are interested to explore the area further. Information on the area — and other archeological sites — is available in San Luis in the Museo Cultural “Dora Ochoa de Masramon”, Ayacucho near Colón La Toma: 29 km north-east. The center of onyx mining. There are day excursions with Empresa Dasso. See also La Toma on page 605 Merlo: Full-day round-trip excursion via La Toma. This trip can be done with public buses from San Luis, Córdoba and Villa Mercedes. See also Merlo on page 606 Salinas del Bebedero: Half-day excursion to the salt mines by tour operator or public bus H i p ó l i t o Y r i g o y e n: H a l f - d a y round-trip excursion via Villa de la Quebrada, where there is a visit to the oratorio of Señor de la Quebrada, and the Via Crucis, with a visit to Balneario. Return the same way. See Hipólito Yrigoyen on page 624

SAN LUIS

SANTA ROSA DEL CONLARA

Santa Rosa del Conlara Population: 3500 Postal code: 5777 @ area code: (02656) Altitude: 605 m Distance from San Luis: 184 km north-east on RP 10, then RP 20 and RN 148

S

anta Rosa del Conlara is located in the north-western part of the province in the fertile Río Conlara valley, on the border with Córdoba Province.

Situated only 15 km west of Merlo, it is usually accessed from there. The town is built in the usual chess board pattern but has retained its colonial aspect with the low houses and treelined wide streets. The main attraction is the complejo turístico covering an area of 8 ha and with a 500 m river frontage on the Río Conlara not far from the town center.

C Accommodation *

C C

Hostería Cerro Blanco AELPV @ 492012 $G 2 Hospedaje Albornoz FHLP @ 492192 Hospedaje Godoy FHL @ 492205

D Camping •

Balneario Municipal, 40 tent sites, FGH; open December–March •

S Buses •

Empresa Ciudad de Merlo ° Papagayos (11 2 hrs) via Merlo, Los Molles, Cortaderas, and Villa Larca; 6 weekly ° San Luis

•

p Sightseeing •

Museo Paleontológico (Paleontology Museum). By appointment only

Bajo de Véliz in the Quebrada de Cautana. This is a 66 km return trip on an unsurfaced road best made with your own 4WD vehicle. The trip goes through a sparsely populated rustic region untouched by tourism; occasionally you have to ford a mountain stream. In the Quebrada de Cautana the former indigenous population has left their mark: there are many rock paintings and farmers still find aboriginal utensils. Small cavities on the rock surfaces were apparently used by aboriginals as mortars to grind maize. Two kilometers north of the village is a slate mine. Here you can see how the villagers extract the slate which is used to tile roofs. In the slate you can see sometimes imprints of prehistoric plants and animals. The Río Cautana runs north and disappears in the Bañado de Cautana Punta del Agua a small farming community 20 km north on RP 23 has a small chapel devoted to the Virgen de las Mercedes built in the 18th century Los Lobos 23 km south. Nearby is Cerro El Peñon with rock paintings and geometric signs painted in red, white, and yellow. Also mortars used by the pre-Hispanic population to grind corn

s Excursions •

Tourists interested in palaeontology and pre-history can make a trip to

623

Santa Rosa del Conlara

CUYO PROVINCES

SIERRA CENTRAL DE SAN LUIS

Sierra Central de San Luis

N

orth-east of the provincial capital begins a mountainous area which is of particular scenic beauty. Set in the valleys are man-made dams enhancing this picturesque setting. Because it is above 1000 m it is a preferred destination for the Sanluiseños. Many mountaintops are over 2000 m, such as Cerro Retana (2130 m), Cerro Agua Hedionda (2150 m), and Cerro Tinaja (2140 m). There are snow-falls in winter.

Trapiche

The area covered is from Las Chacras just 13 km outside town to El Trapiche 38 km north-east on RP 9 and to Villa de la Quebrada 40 km north-west on RP 3. All these routes are scenic drives and described under Excursions from San Luis on page 621. Major places of interest are Potrero de los Funes, El Volcán, and Cruz de Piedra.

Located 38 km north-east on RP 9 at 1050 m. @ area code is (02652) in the Sierra Central de San Luis near the western end of Embalse La Florida in the Río Quinto valley. There are fishing and water sports on the lake. Trapiche lies in the heart of the Sierra Central de San Luis, with clear mountain streams and green valleys full of walnut trees. It is a good starting point for excursions to the surrounding area such as to Río Grande.

Cruz de Piedra Altitude 915 m, located 16 km north-east on RP 20 on the artificial lake of the same name.

Villa de la Quebrada

El Volcán

Located 40 km north of San Luis on RP 3.

A summer resort at 915 m, located 17 km north east on RP 20 on the artificial lake Cruz de Piedra. The area is renowned for century-old walnut groves.

D Camping Camping in El Volcán • El Volcán, RP 20; 40 tent sites AFGH • Río Volcán, 300 m off RP 20; 30 tent sites in a forested area AH

Hipólito Yrigoyen

Camping in Hypólito Yrigoyen • Balneario Municipal, RP 148 KM 8; 15 tent sites FGLR

Located 49 km north of San Luis on the western slopes of the Sierra Central de San Luis, altitude 803 m. It is also known by its earlier name of Nogolí.

Camping in Potrero de Los Funes • El Potrero, capacity: 60 tents $J per tent for 4 Camping in Trapiche • Camping Municipal, RP 9; 60 camp sites AHL • Camping Schmidt, RP 9; 90 camp sites AHL Camping in Villa de la Quebrada • Balneario de La Villa de la Quebrada, 20 camp spots HLR

Potrero de los Funes Located 18 km north-east of San Luis on the artificial lake of the same name; altitude is 985 m. Nearby is the Quebrada de Los Cóndores. It is a holiday resort with good tourist facilities.

Sierra Central de San Luis

624

SAN LUIS C Accommodation in the Sierra Central de San Luis Accommodation in Cruz de Piedra *

Hotel Vivencias

AEFGP

Accommodation in El Volcán

El Volcán, RP 2 KM 17 APS Villa Andrea AEFGLMPSV • Cabañas Salto Colorado, 1 km off RP 20 • Cabañas El Edén

** *

Accommodation in Hypolito Yrigoyen A Hostería 17 de Octubre

AEGHLPV

@ @ @ @

(02652) 421337 $G (02652) 494009 $G 438643 494004

@

440480

$I

2 2

1

Accommodation in Potrero de Los Funes

Hotel Potrero de los Funes, RP 18 KM16 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 495050 @ 423898 * Hotel Fernando AELPV @ 423844 * Hostería Yunka Taki II, M.T. Michel near Salto de La Moneda AEFGLPV @ 495033 B Hostería Mininco, L @ 495000/048 C Hospedaje Don Goyo @ 495027 • Cabañas Ojo de Agua • Cabañas Weekend ABPR @ 425618 • Bungalow Salto Colorado @ 423242 • Departamentos Eden @ 421278

****

Accommodation in Trapiche Hostería Cabaña de Johnny Hostería Los Sauces * Hostería Provincial El Parque A Hostal Los Pinos, B Hostería Rosales C Hospedaje El Cerro, C Hospedaje Gil C Hospedaje Gatica C Hospedaje Pepito • Departamentos Villa El Cordobés • Cabañas Villa Alinor • Cabañas Mogarú * *

AEFGLNPRSV AEFGHLNPRSV AEFGLPV AEGHLP L L L

Accommodation in Villa de La Quebrada *

Hostería Provincial

AEFGLPV

$D/E 2 $G 2 $G $H $H $G $F

2 2 2 1 5

$F

5

@

$G/H 2 493027 $F/G 2 (02652) 493076 493009 $H 2 493026 $H 2 $H 2 493002 $I 1

@ @ @

493012 493038 493060

$H/I $F $G $G

@

429191

$H

@ @ @ @

2 4 3 4 1

E Eating out

•

Eating out in El Volcán • Restaurant El Manantial • La Terraza

Eating out in Trapiche Restaurants • Ariel Fare, San Martín • Club de Pesca, RP 9 on road to lake • Don Angel, San Martín • Flavimar, RP 9 • Hostería Los Sauces • La Cabaña, B. Mitre • Los Rosales, San Martín

Eating out in Potrero del los Funes Restaurants • Carro-bar Don Goyo, directly on lake • Hotel Potrero de los Funes • La Casa de los Di Baia, directly on lake • Motel Yunka Taky

625

Pizzería Luciano

Sierra Central de San Luis

CUYO PROVINCES Motoring in Trapiche • Service station

Eating out in Villa de la Quebrada • Restaurant Johann Woronko, Belgrano near via Crucis. Also sells carved crucifixes • Bar de Juan Funes, Sarmiento near Emilio di Pasquo

Y Shopping Shopping in Trapiche Artesania shops are concentrated around San Martín.

n Entertainment

a Sport

Entertainment in Potrero de los Funes • Casino Potrero de Los Funes Confiterías in Trapiche Most establishments are only open in holiday season. • Bunker. Open all year round; dancing • El Castillo de Trapiche. Dancing • Miau-Miau. Dancing • Rodas. Dancing

Golf in Cruz de Piedra • San Luis Golf Club, RP 20 KM 12 @ (02652) 490013/423038; 9 holes Sport in El Volcán It is possible to swim, fish, and boat in the artificial lake. Sport in Potrero de Los Funes The artificial lake is excellent for pejerrey fishing, swimming, and sailing.

S Buses

Autotransporte San Luis S.A. and Empresa El Oro Negro and Trapiche SRL run daily bus services to and from San Luis. Buses from Hypólito Yrigoyen Empresa Dasso runs six services weekly to and from San Luis. There is a restaurant in the terminal.

s Excursions

The scenic trip from San Luis to Carolina is described under San Luis. Other worthwhile destinations are: • From Hypólito Yrigoyen to Laguna Brava and hikes into the valleys around Cerro Barroso, 1905 m high • From Potrero de Los Funes to Quebrada del León Colgado (“Canyon of the Hanged Lion”): Can be reached on horseback. It has sweeping views to the west

U Motoring Motoring in El Volcán • Y.P.F. service station at Salto Colorado

TILISARAO

Tilisarao Population: 4200 Postal code: 5773 @ area code: (02656) Altitude: 751 m Distance from San Luis: 135 km north-east on RP 20 the RP 23

T

ilisarao is located in the upper Río Conlara valley in the north-eastern part of the province.

Naschel

Renca

Situated in the fertile upper Río Conlara valley 27 km south-west of Tilisarao on RP 23.

Located 10 km south of Tilisarao on RP 40 on the Río Conlara on the eastern side of the Sierra Central de San Luis; altitude 775 m. It was founded

Tilisarao

626

SAN LUIS C Accommodation in Tilisarao

AEFGHLPV AEFGHLP ALP

@ @ @

420566 420213 420385

$H $H $H

2 2 2

AEFGLNPV L

@ @

491088 491053

$I $H $J

2 2 1

Hostería Provincial, Balneario Renca AEFGLPR Full board

@

420765

$G $E

2 2

Hotel El Gallego, 9 de Julio Hotel Udine, Avenida Mitre 834 A Residencial L y C, M.Moreno 380

* *

Accommodation in Naschel Hostería Provincial, B Residencial Naschel, Pedernera 485 C Hospedaje Ochoa,

*

Accommodation in Renca *

•

in the early 18th century. In the old chapel is a picture of El Señor de Renca, which has been venerated by pilgrims from all over the country since the 17th century. Eleven km south-west is Lago San Felipe.

Eating out in Naschel • Club Social y Deportivo Naschel • Confitería Pettimoto’s, Pedernera 485 • Confitería Vavyely, Pringles 216 Eating out in Renca • Pista Centenac de Coco Escudero, Plaza Central

A Festivals Festivals in Renca • Fiesta del Señor de Renca (Festival of the Lord of Renca): May 3

I Telephone and telegraph

•

D Camping

Post office: Correo Argentino, Pringles

S Buses

Camping in Naschel • Balneario Club Social, RN 148 KM 2, 15 camp sites EFGH Camping in Renca • Camping Municipal Balneario de Renca, RN 40 $J per tent

Buses run regularly to San Luis and to Villa Dolores in Córdoba Province. Buses from Naschel El Oro Negro runs three services daily to San Luis and Merlo; and one service daily to Villa Mercedes. There is a restaurant in the bus terminal.

E Eating out • • • • • •

Confitería Skylab, Córdoba near 25 de Mayo. Dancing

Comedor El Sol, near bus terminal Comedor Muñoz, access to town Comedor Ortíz, Comedor Rienzo, Renca Confitería Equus, Centro San Martín Confitería Safari, Centro San Martín

a Sport

The nearby Dique San Felipe attracts many tourists. Swimming, fishing, and water sports in the lake.

VILLA MERCEDES

Villa Mercedes Population: 80 000 Postal code: 5730 @ area code: (02657) Altitude: 515 m Distances • From San Luis: 94 km south-east on RN 7 • From Buenos Aires: 693 km west on RN 7 627

Villa Mercedes

CUYO PROVINCES

V

illa Mercedes, also known as Mercedes, is located in the east of the province, in a plain only interrupted by the Río Quinto. About 65 km beyond Mercedes towards San Luis the rolling hills typical of San Luis begin, and further towards San Luis are stretches of woodland.

A Festivals

The town was founded in 1856 as Fuerte de San Lorenzo del Chañar in response to the incursions of the pampa tribes. The new settlement with the perfect chessboard design was renamed Villa Mercedes in 1861. Villa Mercedes is the gateway to the southern part of San Luis Province.

•

B Tourist information

•

Justo Daract

Oficina de Turismo, Pedernera near Chacabuco, in the Bus Terminal

E Eating out

Located 36 km south-east of Villa Mercedes on RN 7 just 7 km from the border with Córdoba Province. COTA Turismo S.A. runs daily services to and from Villa Mercedes.

Restaurants Meal for two costs around $20.00; a small so-called menu turístico is about $8.00. • Claudio, Belgrano 512 • Club Social, Lavalle 285 • Dos Venados, Lavalle 380 • El Ferrol, Junín 93 • La Casa de Mamá, J.B. Justo 102 • La Casona de Los Valenza, Avenida Mitre 539 • Jockey Club, Avenida Mitre, 830 • Primavera II, Buenos Aires 46 • San Martín, Lavalle 435 Confiterías • Apple, Lavalle 393 • Bowling Club, Balcarce 329 • Club Colegiales, Avenida Mitre 1673 • Encuentro, Pedernera 406 • Jericó, Junín 44 • Zeba’s, Edison 18 Eating out in Buena Esperanza • Buffet Club Cultural Argentino, 25 de Mayo near Pringles • Comedor Erickari, Pringles • Comedor La Capital, Sarmiento near 25 de May • Disco Cheetah, Mitre near Independencia. Dancing Eating out in Nueva Galia • Restaurant El Descanso, Intersection RN 188 and RN 148 • Restaurant Jess-Vann, Moreno near Belgrano • Casino Nueva Galia, RN 148

Buena Esperanza Altitude 318 m, in the far south of the province, located 130 km from Villa Mercedes on RN 148. This is flat fairly dry country dotted with many little lakes or lagunas. Few tourists make it to this area which further south gradually becomes dotted with more trees, mostly caldén. Empresa El Caldén runs two services weekly to and from Villa Mercedes.

Nueva Galia Located in the extreme south of the province 169 km south of Villa Mercedes at the intersection of RN 148 (north–south) with RN 188 (east–west). The road leading west passes through extensive sand dune country. The small township of Unión, with accommodation, is located 58 km west of Nueva Galia. Empresa El Caldén runs two services weekly to and from Villa Mercedes.

Villa Mercedes

Fiesta de la Calle Angosta, celebrates in the first half of December. The center of festivities is an old hangout of gauchos in Calle Angosta. Colorful event with singing and dancing competitions and plenty of chivitos or goat-meat steaks.

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SAN LUIS C Accommodation in Villa Mercedes Hotels Centro, Junín 40 Piero, Junín 85 ** San Martín, Lavalle 435 * Bonino, Avenida Mitre 1701 * Lavalle, Lavalle 417 * Libertador, Pedernera 990 * Lincoln, España 207 * Oriente, Tucumán 32 • Parque, Chacabuco 283 ** **

Residenciales

A Avenida, Avenida Mitre 1668 A Loren, Salta 232 A Printz, Avenida Mitre 1169 A 25 de Mayo, 25 de Mayo 351 B España, J.B.Justo 33 B Mary-Clare, La Rioja 172 C Hospedaje Novel, Avenida Mitre 992

ACEFGJLPTUV ACEFGJLPUV ACEFGHKLPTV AELPV AEGLPTV AELPV AELPV AELPV ADHPV

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

421212 422956/55 422358/424500 420420 421442 420630 422812 421776 434363

$F $F $F $F $F $G $G $F

1 1 2 2 2 2 2 2

ACEGHLP AEGHLPS AEGHLP AEGL HLPV L LV

@ @ @ @ @ @ @

433114 420846 420635 420403 422006 420811 423950

$G $G $G $H/I $H $H $H

2 2 2 2 2 2 2

@ @

423020 436248

$F

2

EFGL EFGL EFGL

@ @

(02658) 420074 (02658) 420140 $H

2

AEFGHLNP

@

(02658) 491049 $H

2

GL AGL

@

(02658) 494019

EGL

@

(02658) 495025 $H

2

@ @ @

(02657) 480036 $H/I (02657) 480468 (02657) 424062 $H

2

Accommodation on RN 7 Hotels

Hostal del Sol, RN 7 near Las Heras AELPV • Carlos Demo, KM 695

*

Accommodation in Buena Esperanza C Hospedaje Baumgartner C Hospedaje González C Hospedaje San Martín

Accommodation in Nueva Galia *

Hostería Provincial

Accommodation in Fortuna Fortuna is located 13 km west of Nueva Galia C Hospedaje Doña Lola C Hospedaje Plano

Accommodation in Unión B Residencial Alvear

Accommodation in Justo Daract

Hostería Provincial AELPV A Hotel Don Carlos, Rivadavia 53 AEFGHLP • Hotel Restaurant La Esquina de Pocho, Libertad 79 C Residencial San Luis, San Luis 909 AEFGHLPV

*

n Entertainment

2

L Financial

•

Confiterías bailables (Dancing) • Casino Villa Mercedes, Lavalle 285 • Glass, Salta 80 • L’Escargot, Avenida Mitre 518 • Match Point, Avenida Mitre 771 • Quincy Disco, Belgrano 128

Alituris, Pedernera 17 @ 422557

M Services and facilities

•

Laundromat: Laverap, Pringles 126

R Air services

Villa Reynolds airport is 10 km from the town center.

629

Villa Mercedes

CUYO PROVINCES S Buses from Villa Mercedes

The bus terminal is on Pedernera near Chacabuco @421420 • COTA Turismo S.A. @423823 ° Justo Daract; daily services ° Libertador General San Martín (41 4 hrs) via La Toma ($5.00; 2 hrs); 5 weekly ° La Vertiente (21 2 hrs) via La Toma; 2 weekly • Empresa El Caldén ° Anchorena (41 4hrs) via Buena Esperanza (2hrs), Nueva Galia (21 2 hrs), and Arizona (4hrs); 2 weekly • El Oro Negro ° Merlo (4 hrs) via El Quebrachal, El Morro (11 2 hr), La Toma (1 hr), Naschel (2 hrs), Tilisarao, Concarn, and Santa Rosa; 1 daily • T.A.C. local 1 @ 434422 • T.A. Chevallier, local 3 @ 422406 • Jocolí S.R.L. @ 420519 • Autotransporte San Juan Mar del Plata @ 421628/435909 • Colta @ 421628

U Motoring • •

s Excursions

Service station: A.C.A., 25 de Mayo 151 Car rental: Localiza, Lavalle 457

Tour operators • Fermi Tour, Lavalle 462 @ 424653 fax Excursions Regular bus services to the southern part of San Luis Province are limited to three services per week, and tourist facilities are geared towards the needs of the local population. This vast flat area in the far south consisting of wide plains, sand dunes interspersed with small lakes and lagunas, and caldén forests is reminiscent of some areas in La Pampa Province but its tourist potential has not been exploited.

a Sport Golf • Los Caldenes Club de Campo S.A., Avenida Mitre 600 @ (02657) 421680/422016; nine holes • Automóvil Club Mercedes, Old RN 7 KM 7.5 @ (02657) 420494

p Sightseeing •

Museo Histórico y de Bellas Artes (Historical and Fine Arts Museum), Tacuari near Mitre

Villa Mercedes

630

MENDOZA MUYO C Mendoza ENDOZA PROVINCES

Plate 12 633 635 639 640 642 643 644 647 648 650 654 663 663 664 665 666 667 672 673 674 675

T

Map of Mendoza Province Map of public transport in Mendoza Province Cajón del Río Mendoza BCDEPSUWabce^pstu General Alvear BCEJKSUWq Las Leñas BCEnJKLMSUWabceosuv Los Molles CSbcsu Malargüe BCEJKLMRSUWabdef^pqst Map uv Mendoza ABCDEnJKLMNPQRSUVWXYZ aefijopqsu Map of Greater Mendoza Map of city center Map of city center east Rivadavia ACDEnJKSefghps Map San Carlos ABCESrstu San Martín BCEnJKSpqt San Rafael ABCDEnJKLMRSUWXabefgp Map qstu Tunuyán ABCDEnJKSUWabc^ls Map Tupungato BCDEJKnSUWbs Uspallata BCDEILSUrs

he province of Mendoza is located in the central western region of Argentina. The Andean cordillera forms the border with Chile. In the south-west Mendoza adjoins Neuquén Province, in the east La Pampa and San Luis, and in the north San Juan.

Several Indian tribes inhabited the area before the arrival of the Incas and the Spaniards. The Huarpes

lived in the north, Picunches in the east, Araucanos in the west, and Puenches and Pehuenches in the

631

Mendoza

CUYO PROVINCES south-west. It is believed that the Incas subjugated the indigenous population around 1480, without completely gaining control of them. Remains of an Inca road are still visible in some places, as are relics of tambos (staging posts for Inca runners) such as the one near Uspallata. Mendoza was founded as part of Chile and until 1776 belonged to the Gobernación de Chile. With the creation of the Virreinato del Río de La Plata, Mendoza, along with the other Cuyo Provinces of San Juan and San Luis, became part of the Intendencia de Córdoba. It was in Mendoza that General San Martín prepared his crossing of the Andes to invade the Spanish-held part of South America. Nowadays Mendoza is the largest wine-producing province in Argentina. Grapes are grown on 330 000 ha (815 440 acres), in over 60 000 vineyards, and produce 30 million hectoliters of wine in a good year. Vines were first planted by the Jesuits in 1556. Without water channelled from the high sierras very little agricultural activity could be sustained. A visit to a winery in Mendoza is a must. Mendoza is one of the most scenic areas of Argentina and tourism is well developed. Mountaineering — Cerro Aconcagua, the highest mountain of the Americas, is within easy reach of the city of Mendoza — enjoys an ever-increasing popularity. Trout fishing is also a very popular sport. Mendoza has major winter sports centers such as Las Leñas in t h e V a l l e H e r m o s o, a n d L o s Penitentes, Vallecitos in the Cajón del Río Mendoza. The eastern and north-eastern part of Mendoza consists largely of

Mendoza

arid plains, some of which have real desert characteristics. Mendoza claims 350 days of sunshine per year!

Mountain passes to Chile

•

•

Paso de la Cumbre 3832 m. Links Mendoza with Santiago de Chile . RN 7 in Argentina becomes RN 60 on the Chilean side. Open daily 08:00–20:00. Be careful to note the time difference when moving from one country to another! Argentine pass formalities are made in Complejo Carranza 30 km east of the border. The pass is kept open all year round with some interruptions in June–August due to heavy snow falls Paso Pehuenche 2500 m. This pass road links Malargüe with Talca in Chile. The turnoff from RN 40 into RP 224 leading to the pass is at Bardas Blancas. The road on either side of the border is kept in reasonable condition but can be bad after heavy snow falls. The passport control is at Poti Malal 66 km east of the border. The road is open from December to April but closed for the rest of the year

Provincial Reserves and Nature Reserves

•

•

•

632

In the departamento of Las Heras near the border with San Juan Province is Reserva Natural Bosque Telteca which encompasses the Médanos de los Altos Limpios; huge sand dunes Reserva Ecológica Ñacuñán is located 120 km north-west of San Rafael via RN 156 and RN 171; at this stage it has very little tourist traffic To the south within easy reach of Malargüe is Laguna Llancanelo,

MENDOZA To San Juan

To Barreal A211

TERMAS DE VILLAVICENCIO A99, A134, A211

USPALLATA PTE DEL INCA A99, A134

MENDOZA

A28, A33, A81, A99, A114,A153, A155, A211, A263, A338, A340

POTRERILLOS A99, A134

SAN MARTÍN CACHEUTA A99, A134

TUPUNGATO A340

SANTA ROSA RIVADAVIA A339 LA PAZ

TUNUYÁN A134, A338, A340

SAN CARLOS A211

A81, A134, A155, A339

SAN RAFAEL

GENERAL ALVEAR A81, A134, A155

LOS MOLLES

LAS LEÑAS

EL NIHUIL

A134, A211, A341

MALARGÜE A134, A211,A341

BARDAS BLANCAS

A81

Main bus operators in province Mendoza A28 A33 A81 A99 A114 A134 A153 A155 A211 A263 A338 A339 A340 A341

BARRANCAS A211

633

Central Argentino T.A. Chevallier Andesmar Expreso Jocoli Empresa Vallecito SRL Expreso Uspallata Transporte La Cumbre Transporte La Estrella SRL TAC Empresa del Sur y Media Agua ECLA El Rápido SRL Transporte General B. Mitre SRL Transporte Diego Berbel

Mendoza

CUYO PROVINCES rich in birdlife. Further to the south are the mountains of the Borde Alto (highest peak Cerro Payún, 3680 m), a volcanic region rich in fauna, hardly touched by tourism • Near the Chilean border two nature reserves have been created: the 71 000 ha (175 442 acre) Parque Provincial Aconcagua, with Cerro Aconcagua as its highest mountain, and to the south the 120 000 ha (296 523 acre) Parque Provincial Volcán Tupungato. The two parks are separated by the Río de las Cuevas. Both reserves have more than a dozen peaks over 6000 m high, and many glaciers such as Glaciar Horcones Superior, Glaciar Cuerno, Glaciar Gussfeldt, and Glaciar Horcones Inferior, which are the source of crystal-clear mountain streams. In the southern part of Parque Provincial Volcán Tupungato are many hot springs; most of them are in the Toscas and Taguas valleys but are inaccessible to the ordinary tourist. Some areas have been earmarked for development, for example, Los Penitentes, Puente del Inca, and Río de las Cuevas valley. In another development, the Río Tupungato valley is to be developed for hydroelectricity generation The many artificial lakes are another source of enjoyment for the tourist. The biggest is Dique El Nihuil, in a beautiful setting in the Cañon del Atuel near San Rafael with the chain of the Andes beckoning in the west, providing water sports and accommodation. Dique El Carrizal on the Río Tunuyán also

Mendoza

attracts a large following of water sport enthusiasts. The western part of Mendoza is taken up by the cordillera, containing the highest peaks in the Americas (Cerro Aconcagua at 6959 m). This is one of the best areas for mountain climbing, hiking, and fishing. If you wish to scale Cerro Aconcagua, you must obtain a permit from the Dirección de Deportes, Recreación y Turismo Social, Estadio Malvinas Argentinas, Mendoza. This permit is issued in duplicate; the group leader must keep the original and hand the duplicate to the Chief of Police in Uspallata. The best time for mountaineering is from January to the beginning of March. Mendoza is well endowed with thermal springs. Many have excellent facilities, such as Cacheuta (not far from Mendoza city), Los Molles, and Termas Villavicencio. Hikes through the mountains will reveal many more, one of the most picturesque being at Puente del Inca on the road to Chile. The hot springs of El Peralito, altitude 1890 m near San Rafael, have a water temperature of 38°C–44°C (100°F–108°F) but are not yet commercialized. The thermal springs near Tupungato are commercially utilized by Y.P.F. These springs are at an altitude of 1067 m 78 km south-west of Mendoza. For those interested in archeology, you can see the remains of the old Inca road with ruins of an Inca tambo in the Río de las Cuevas valley past Uspallata. For the fishing enthusiast there are countless rivers, mountain streams, lakes, and lagunas. The fishing season runs from November 1 to April 30 for salmonoids, and until

634

MENDOZA Main areas of tourist interest

July 31 for pejerrey, bagres, perch, and carp. The best places are the Río de las Cuevas and Río Mendoza and their tributaries Río Uspallata, Arroyo San Alberto, and Río Picheuta for trout; Dique El Carrizal for pejerrey, trout, and bagres; Valle de Uco and its brooks Arroyo Las Pircas and Arroyo El Grande de la Quebrada for rainbow trout and brook trout; Dique El Nihuil, and Lago Valle Grande near San Rafael for brook trout, rainbow trout, and Patagonian and Gran Paraná pejerrey; and in the Malargüe area in the Río Atuel, Río Barrancas, Río Cobre, Río Poti Malal Chico, Río Poti Malal Grande, Río Salado, Río Tordillo, and Río Valenzuela for trout fly fishing. Rafting is possible on the following rivers: Río Mendoza, Río Tunuyán, Río Diamante and Río Atuel.

Worth a visit & Mendoza city & Las Leñas & Valle Hermoso Worth a detour & Las Cuevas valley between Uspallata and Las Cuevas & The Los Penitentes ski resort & Cacheuta, Vallecitos, and Potrerillos & San Rafael and the Cañon del Atuel Of interest & Tunuyán & Tupungato & Malargüe & El Sosneado and the upper Río Atuel valley

Golf Clubs Excellent golf courses are in Mendoza and San Rafael. See pages 659 and 669.

CAJÓN DEL RÍO MENDOZA

Cajón del Río Mendoza

T

he Cajón covers the scenic drive from Mendoza through the Río Mendoza valley right up to the Chilean border. Along this route are major ski resorts and access to the Parque Provincial Tupungato and Parque Provincial Aconcagua. RN 7 is also a major highway connecting Santiago de Chile with Mendoza via Paso de la Cumbre. The main locations covered in geographical sequence are Cacheuta, Potrerillos, the detour from Potrerillos to Vallecitos, Uspallata, Punta de Vacas, Los Penitentes, Puente del Inca, and Las Cuevas; Uspallata being a major town is covered separately on page 675.

Follow RN 7 south-west from Mendoza. At first you travel through residential outer suburbs such as Chacras de Coria. From Las Compuestas onwards the road follows the banks of the Río Mendoza. Near the modern hydroelectric

power station of Blanco Encalada is Toma de los Españoles the remains of a dam built in 1788 during the reign of Viceroy Sobremonte. It was used to supply the city of Mendoza with drinking water and for irrigation. At KM 39 the valley forms a 635

Cajón del Río Mendoza

CUYO PROVINCES narrow 7 km gorge with just enough room for river, road and the now defunct railway line. The walls of the gorge are made of reddish granite. At KM 45 you reach Cacheuta located at 1075 m in a wider section of the valley. The lush green valley is in stark contrast to the bare mountains. The hot springs at a temperature of 37°C–50°C (98°F–120°F) have valuable therapeutic properties. A modern spa-cum-thermal resort incorporates the original buildings and its lift tower. Potrerillos at KM 58, altitude 1354 m, is a holiday resort much frequented by Mendocinos. It is also the gateway to the Vallecitos ski slopes 26 km west. The detour to the skiing area is a scenic drive of 22 km through the Río Blanco valley flanked by the Cordón del Colorado: Cerro Penitentes, Cerro del Plata, 5970 m and Cerro de Los Vertientes, are the domain of skiers, mountain hikers, and sport fishermen. The upper Río Blanco valley at 2300 m is the actual skiing region. Continuing from Potrerillos on the main highway your next major stop is Uspallata at KM 95, altitude 1900 m. This is a fair-sized town in a wide valley, the hub of this beautiful mountain region. At Uspallata RN 7 intersects with RP 39 going north through the Uspallata valley to Barreal in San Juan Province. Indeed the former Inca trail passed through this valley to Chile. The town of Uspallata is separately covered — see page 675. The road continous west. Of interest is the Río de los Tambillos: in the vicinity are the remains of an Inca tambo. It should also be noted that from the junction of the Río de los Tambillos and the Río de las

Cajón del Río Mendoza

Cuevas it becomes the Río Mendoza. The mountain scenery with the river tumbling down the valley is superb. For those continuing to Chile there is a passport control at Punta de Vacas at KM 164, 2395 m. No facilities here, only a border checkpoint. The wide valley is strewn with boulders, a leftover of glacier erosion. From Punta de Vacas is the only view of Cerro Tupungato, 6600 m. In winter snow chains must be used or you may not be permitted to continue; this is rigorously enforced by the border police. Both the Chilean and Argentine automobile associations sell snow chains. Further on Los Penitentes at KM 167 is a major ski resort, located in the upper Río de las Cuevas valley at 2580 m; it is accessible all year round. Nearby are also remains of Inca ruins. Wind, ice and water have formed peculiar shapes resembling a procession of repenting monks, hence the name. Some 8 km further at KM 177 is Puente del Inca, altitude 2718 m. The main attractions here are the thermal baths located inside and near caves and of course the Río de Las Cuevas which has tunnelled through the mountain forming an archway. It is also the starting point for hikes into the Parque Provincial Aconcagua. The last Argentine settlement before crossing into Chile is Las Cuevas at KM 195, altitude 3151 m. The former arduous road over the pass near the Cristo Redentor statue is now a mountain hikers trail. Shortly after leaving the township, the road enters a tunnel (toll $10.00) and re-emerges in Chile (see Visas, passports in Mendoza on page 655). The area is ideal for hiking, such as to Cristo Redentor, 9 km away, at an

636

MENDOZA C Accommodation in Cajón del Río Mendoza Accommodation in Cacheuta ***

Hotel Termas Cacheuta, RN 7 KM 38 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Mendoza: (0261) 4316085

Accommodation in Potrerillos ****

Hotel Gran Potrerillos, RN7 KM 53

@

(02624) 482082 $C

2

ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ (02624) 482010 $C/D 2

Mendoza: @ (0261) 4233000/811 • Cabañas Villa San Jorge, Alto Mantiales • Hostería El Cortijo del Torreón, Ave. Los Cóndores

@ @

(02624) 483039 $G (02624) 483055

4

Accommodation in Vallecitos Note: this is a skiing area and with the bookings you also arrange transport.

Hostería Valles del Plata, La Canaleta AELPSV $D 1 Information: Avenida de Acceso Este 650, San José @ (0261) 4310356; fax (0261) 4311957 • Refugio Cerro Nevado, La Canaleta, RP 82 KM 75; 36 beds. Information and bookings: U.N.C. Mendoza @ (0261) 4251504 • Refugio Esqui Club Mendoza, RP 82 KM 75, 5 km from turnoff; 35 beds • Refugio San Antonio, RP 82 KM 75, 5 km from turnoff; 20 beds. Information and bookings: Polideportivo, Luján de Cuyo @ (0261) 4980158/200 and 4981046/350

*

Accommodation in Los Penitentes

@ (0261) 4271123 $D/E 2 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ **** Apart Hotel Horcones (time-sharing), RN 7 KM 165 @ (0261) 4314891 fax ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ $F 1 **** Apart Hotel Portezuelo, RN 7 KM 165 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ *** Apart Hotel Juncal, RN 7 KM 165 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY *** Apart Hotel Lomas Blancas, RN 7 KM 165 @ (0261) 4294249 $B/C 4 Fax (0261) 4239329 *** Apart Hotel Tolosa, RN 7 KM 165 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY ** Hostería Los Penitentes, RN 7 KM 165 AEFGJLPUV @ (0261) 4200062 $D/E 2 * Hostería Ayelén, RN 7 KM 165 AELPV @ (0261) 4203880 $G 1 • Albergue Juvenil, RN 7 KM 165 @ (0261) 4205081 $F 1 ****

Hotel Ayelén, RN 7

Accommodation in Puente del Inca **

Hostería Puente del Inca, RN 7 KM 177 Fax (0261)4233239 AEFGJLPSUV

@

(02624) 482007 $F/G 2

Accommodation in Plaza de Mulas Located on the Aconcagua trail

• Refugio Plaza de Mulas, 4370 m at the foot of Cerro Aconcagua Bookings: Mendoza, 9 de Julio 983 @ (0261) 4200607 $H/I

1

B Tourist information

altitude of 4000 m. The mountains surrounding Las Cuevas are about 6000 m high. The trip from Mendoza to the Chilean border and indeed the whole section to Santiago de Chile is in my opinion among the top scenic Andean crossings in South America.

In Vallecitos • Bookings and reservations: La Canaleta @ (02622) 4312713/79; in Mendoza: Moreno 2321/45 @ (0261) 47682599/4459161 fax (0261) 4311957 Tourist information in Los Penitentes • Bookings: Oficina de Información @ 420062

637

Cajón del Río Mendoza

CUYO PROVINCES D Camping

a Sport

Camping in Potrerillos • A.C.A. Potrerillos, KM 50, RN 7 on the western side of town F $J 1

Sport in Potrerillos • Mini golf, hiking Sport in Vallecitos Vallecitos is a fledgling ski resort with great potentials. It is situated at 2900 m at the foot of the Cordón del Plata and surrounded by high mountains. The facilities include several refugios operated by ski clubs and one hostería. Restaurants are attached to all accommodation places. The skiable area covers 100 ha (247 acres) with 12 ski runs served by four chair lifts and three T-bars; capacity is 2400 skiers per hour. Skiing is good for both novices and advanced skiers. At the base the snow is 1.20 m deep and on the slopes reaches 1.80 m. Dry snow. The longest run is 2400 m with a height difference of 450 m. The alpine ski season runs from July 1 to September 30; for langlauf it extends to end November. The climate is typical high-altitude. • Lift tickets: $10.00 • Ski hire: $15.00 • Skiing lessons: $15.00 for 2 hours In summer the area is the domain of the sport fisherman and mountain hiker. Kayaking and hang-gliding is also promoted. Sport in Los Penitentes Los Penitentes is foremost a skiing area but is also a good base for mountain hikes. The ski season is from 15 June to 15 September. The skiable area is 2500 ha (6178 acres) and there are 28 ski runs

E Eating out Eating out in Los Penitentes • Restaurant Club de Cañas at the base • Confitería La Herradura. Disco, bar • Restaurant La Barranca at 2797 m. Light meals. The chair lift operates at night for patrons Eating out in Puente del Inca • Restaurant Club Cruz de Caña, RN 7 KM 151 • Restaurant Puente del Inca, RN 7

P Visas, passports

If you are continuing to Chile, have your passport processed at Punta de Vaca by the Argentine border guards, 32 km back before Las Cuevas.

U Motoring Motoring in Los Penitentes • Service station in Complejo Ayelén Motoring in Puente del Inca • Service station. Also has accommodation Motoring in Las Cuevas • Service station in the village

S Buses from Cajón del Río Mendoza

There are 3 services daily from Mendoza to Uspallata provided by Expreso Jocolí and Expreso Uspallata. Between Uspallata and the border village of Las Cuevas there are 2 services daily. Expreso Jocolí runs direct services Mendoza and Vallecitos. Buses from Cacheuta Turismo Mendoza, Las Heras 543 @ 4292013, runs a daily service leaving Mendoza at 09:00. • Las Cuevas (4 hrs) via Potrerillos and Uspallata (1 hr); 1–3 daily • Mendoza (1 hour) Buses from Los Penitentes There is no bus terminal. Hotels have copies of bus timetables. • Mendoza (21 2 hrs) and Uspallata ($3.75); 3 daily Buses from Puente del Inca • Mendoza ($7.70) via Los Penitentes and Uspallata ($4.40); 1–3 daily

Cajón del Río Mendoza

638

MENDOZA s Excursions

served by two chair lifts and five T- bars; capacity is 5800 skiers per hour. A beginners’ lift operates near the base; highest lift goes to 3020 m. Longest ski run is 7000 m. Height difference is 614 m. At the base the snow is 1.20 m and at the top is 2.80 m. Dry powder snow. • Lift tickets: $30.00 a day • Ski hire: $26.00 a day or $70.00 per week • Snow boards: $40.00 a day • Ski lessons: $22.00 per hour Sport in Puente del Inca Puente del Inca is the start for hikes to Parque Provincial Cerro Aconcagua and for mountaineers. Kayaking in the Río Mendoza and hanggliding is also promoted.

From Potrerillos • Termas de Cacheuta: 13 km downhill. This is an easy two hours’ walk through a very scenic gorge. Return trip by Expreso Uspallata (3 services daily; 15 minutes) From Los Penitentes • Of interest are the traces of Inca domination with archeological sites at Ranchillo; traces of the Inca road and remains of an Inca tambo are near Río de los Tambillos; also visits to Uspallata, Puente del Inca some 6–8 km uphill, depending on where you stay From Puente del Inca Puente del Inca is the best starting point for excursions to the higher Andean valleys and hikes in the nearby Parque Provincial Aconcagua. • Los Penitentes: 6 km downhill on foot or on horseback • Laguna de los Horcones: Underground lake; 5 km From Las Cuevas • Cristo Redentor: This monument to Christ the Redeemer was cast in 1904 from canons of the Andean Army by the sculptor Alonso. To see the magnificent views from here you must climb 900 m over a 9 km track

p Sightseeing Sightseeing in Puente del Inca • Just 100 m from the main road is the natural stone archway Puente del Inca after which this settlement is named. This is one of the natural wonders of South America. Inside the rock underneath the bridge are galleries hewn into the rock where the hot sulphur springs emerge. The natural arch spans the Río de las Cuevas at a height of 19 m, and is 27 m wide. There are many more natural springs within a radius of 200 m

GENERAL ALVEAR

General Alvear Population: 46 000 Postal code: 5620 @ area code: (02625) Distance from Mendoza: 323 km south on RN 40 and RN 143

L

ocated in the Río Atuel valley, General Alvear is an important crossroads (RN 143 north–south and RN 188 east–west). It started out as a hacienda in 1884 founded by Don Diego Alvear who acquired the area from Cacique Goico. It is a modern town with the usual chess-board pattern but interspersed are some colonial-style mansions.

B Tourist Information •

E Eating out

•

Oficina Municipal de Turismo, Int. Morales near Chapeaurouge @ 424594

639

Restaurant Don Ataliva, Sarmiento 236

General Alvear

CUYO PROVINCES C Accommodation in General Alvear Hotels **

• • • • •

Buenos Aires, Ingeniero Lange 54 ADEFHLPTUV Central Alambra, Sarmiento 55 AEHP Barcelona, Ave. Libertador Norte 765 Grosso, Ingeniero Lange 31 AEHLPVY Fax 422392 Ruca Hue, Int. Morales 253 AEFHV Salamanca, Alvear Este 802 AHKPVY

Residenciales A • • • • •

• • • • •

Avenida, General Alvear Este 254 Gran Rex, Chapeaurouge 225 La Alhambra, Chapeaurouge 226 Los Andes, Paso de Los Andes 138 Petri, Olascoaga 203 San José, Paso de Los Andes 125

@ @ @ @

422972 fax 422732 425716 422393

@ @

424880 424141

LP

@

422535

HP

@

422811

@ @

424643 423184

•

Restaurant El Amigo, Padre Vázquez 174 Restaurant El Rincón, 26 de Julio 86 Restaurant La Llegada, Avenida Alvear Este 499 near Europa Cafetería California, Padre Vázquez 257 Cafetería Don Ramón, Avenida Alvear Este 50

• •

I Post and telegraph • •

Andesmar ° Esquel (19 hrs) via General Alvear, Catriel (53 4 hrs), Neuquén (73 4 hrs), Bariloche (141 2 hrs), and El Bolsón (161 2 hrs) ; 1 service daily Mendoza (5 hrs) via General ° Alvear Expreso Uspallata, Chapeaurouge 94 @ 425416 La Estrella, Chapeaurouge 92 @ 423334

U Motoring

Post office: Correo Argentino, Int. Morales near Chapeaurouge Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Alvear Oeste 217

•

Service station: A.C.A., Avenida Libertador near Granaderos

p Sightseeing

S Buses

•

See also Buses from Mendoza on page 657.

Museo de Historia Natural (Natural History Museum), San Rafael 48

LAS LEÑAS

Las Leñas @ area code: (02627) Altitude: 2250 m Distances • From Mendoza: 445 km south on RN 40 and RN 143 then RP 222 • From Malargüe: 75 km north on RN 40 then RP 222

T

his ski resort is situated in the Valle Hermoso at the junction of Arroyo Blanco and Arroyo Las Leñas.

Las Leñas

640

MENDOZA •

There is year-round access from Buenos Aires by road or plane to San Rafael/Malargüe and thence by bus. Las Leñas is also worth visiting in summer. It is the most modern ski resort in South America, with a skiing area of 3800 ha (9390 acres) and 57 km of ski runs from 350 m to over 7 km long. Snow cover at the base is 1.00 m. Temperature can be as low as –6°C (20°F). The main skiing season runs from June 1 to October 31, but there may be snow as early as May and as late as November. Note that the high ski season runs from last week in July to the end of the first week in August; the mid ski season from July 1 to the third week in July and from the second week in August till the end of August; and the low ski season runs from the middle to the end of June and from the middle to the end of September. Skiing conditions for beginners, intermediate skiers, and advanced skiers are all excellent.

Oficina de Informes, Centro Comercial La Pirámide @ (02627) 471100

E Eating out

Hotel rates include meals. • Restaurant Acuario. International cuisine • Restaurant Bankett. International cuisine • Restaurant El Brasero. Self-serve • Restaurant Escorpio. International cuisine • Restaurant Géminis. International cuisine • Restaurant La Salamandra Eating out on the ski runs • Café at the end of Minerva T-Bar (2320 m) • Restaurant Bacus, top of Neptuno chair lift at 2664 m • Restaurant El Cucharón, Eros ski lift • Restaurant Elurra, Minerva chair lift. Snack bar

n Entertainment

Las Leñas operates five closed-circuit television channels, one in English and one with programs for children. • Casino in Hotel Piscis • Disco Ku, Centro Comercial La Pirámide

B Tourist information

See also Tour operators in Buenos Aires City on page 76.

C Accommodation in Las Leñas

Accommodation must be booked on a weekly basis, from Saturday to Saturday. The price includes transport to and from Buenos Aires, half-board accommodation, and ski-lifts. All units are built of stone. All hotels may be reached on @ 471100 fax. Feeling Tourismo in Buenos Aires offers ski week packages from $450.00 in apart hotel in the low season; and “dormy” room accommodation from $300 to $650 according to the season. Apart hotels Esparta, Apartur, Atenas, Cirrus, Corinto, Delphos, Tebas, Club de La Nieve Hotels ***** **** **** **** ***

Piscis International, 200 beds Aries, 150 beds Acuario, 130 beds Escorpio, 200 beds Géminis, 120 beds

ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$TUVXYZ ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

“Dormy” houses Laquir, Liguén, Milla, Payén

641

Las Leñas

CUYO PROVINCES I Post and telegraph

vices weekly to San Rafael. Staying in Malargüe and commuting to the snow fields is a cheaper alternative.

Post office and public telephones in Centro Comercial La Pirámide allow direct dialing within Argentina and internationally.

U Motoring

•

L Financial

There is an exchange bureau in Centro Comercial La Pirámide.

M Services and facilities

There is a shop hiring skis and other equipment at the base of the ski slopes; and a complete medical center in the ski village. • There are seven chair lifts and 4 T-bars with a lift capacity of 9200 skiers per hour. The lengths of T-bars ranges from 240 m (Teleski Eros) to 1670 m (Telesilla Vulcano). A higher chair lift, Telesilla Juno, goes up to 3360 m. Ski rental costs $100.00–$180.00 weekly according to the season. Weekly ski passes cost $150–$250.00 according to the ski season. A six-day two-hour skiing instruction course costs $100.00– $150.00 according to the season

•

The best route to Buenos Aires is to return to Mendoza on RN 40 and then take the sealed RN 7 via San Luis. The short cut to San Luis via San Rafael has a few bad stretches on RN 146 between Monte Comán and Puente Las Horquetas Y.P.F. service station just before the ski village, south on RP 222

a Sport

Lift tickets are included in the price for those staying a week or more. Hire of services and equipment • Ski hire: $25.00 per day • Ski lifts: day pass $40.00; 3-day pass: $100.00; weekly pass: $250.00

s Excursions

The resort is ideally located in the Andes for summer hikes, walking, or horse-riding. • Río del Cobre • Los Molles, a thermal spring, and Laguna de la Niña Encantada. There is a camping ground • Laguna del Valle Hermoso. Wind surfing is popular

S Buses

Transportes Diego Berbel and Expreso Uspallata run daily services to and from Malargüe. Expreso Uspallata and T.A.C. daily services to Mendoza and 2–5 ser-

LOS MOLLES

Los Molles Postal code: 5611 @ area code: (02625) Altitude: 2180 m Distances • From Malargüe: 60 km north on RN 40 then RP 222 • From Mendoza: 422 km south on RN 40 then RP 222

L

os Molles, located on the Río Salado, is a thermal and winter resort with good ski runs. Since the opening of the nearby Las Leñas it has lost much of its sparkle. The thermal springs of Termas Lahuen-Có are on the right bank of the Río Salado a short distance away. Los Molles is surrounded by high mountains and is a good summer hiking area. The temperature of the thermal water is 36°C–49°C (75°F–120°F) and is not commercially exploited.

Los Molles

642

MENDOZA C Accommodation

S Buses

Hotel Lahuen-Có II, ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ (02627) 427171 S $G 1 *** Hotel Club Hotel Hualum, RN 222 KM 422 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ (0261) 4203663 $D/E 1 A Residencial Lahuen-Co I, RN 222 LP Bookings: Mendoza, P. Mendocinas 1221 @ (0261) 4340288

See Buses from Las Leñas on page 642.

***

s Excursions

• • •

•

Las Leñas: 23 km, a highly developed winter sport resort; see page 642 Termas Lahuen-Có: 1.5 km Pozo de las Ánimas: 9 km, a geological depression Laguna de la Niña Encantada: 9 km, remains of a geyser, thermal water

MALARGÜE

Malargüe Population: 25 000 Postal code: 5613 @ area code: (02627) Altitude: 1410 m Distance from Mendoza: 421 km south on RN 40

M

alargüe is located in the foothills of the Andes. It is served by a small airstrip. •

Malargüe is the center of a varied and interesting tourist area. There are petroglyphs in Arroyo Las Mesillas, Arroyo Jaguel Amarillo, Agua Botada, and Malal Dormido. Most of these are inaccessible to the general public, with bad roads and no on-site facilities. It is, however, the starting point to visit the nature reserves of Laguna Llancanelo and Cerro Matrún. White water rafting, caving and skiing are also possible. Within easy reach are the thermal resorts of Los Molles and the lesser developed thermal springs of Cajón Grande and Baños de Azufre. There are also many mines in the area.

E Eating out

• • • • • • •

•

Restaurant El Rey de La Pizza, Rufino Ortega 517 Restaurant Gran Parilla El Tío, Rufino Ortega 420 Restaurant Nuevas Ondas, San Martín near General Villegas Restaurant Puli–Huén, San Martín 200 Cafetería Avenida, San Martín 435 Cafetería Hueney, San Martín 378 Cafetería La Primavera, San Martín 445

I Post and telegraph

• •

B Tourist information •

Dirección de Bosques y Parques Nacionales, RN 40 north

Dirección de Turismo, Fray Inalicán near Uriburu, @ 471659 fax 471696. Names and addresses of tourist guides are obtainable from the office. Club Andino Malargüe: inquire at the Aire Libre shop, corner of San Martín and Villegas

Post office: Encotesa, Torres near Puebla Long-distance public telephone, San Martín 142, Uriburu 436, San Martín 891

L Financial

•

643

Turimalal, Ave. San Martín 301 @ 471222

Malargüe

CUYO PROVINCES To 2

1

To Mendoza

ALFONSO CAP DEVILA 40

3 BATALLON N. CREACIN E

CNEL. SATURNINO TORRES 4 D 5 A

FRAY FRANCISCO INACALÁ C

$

6

7

I

CMTE J.A. RODRÍGUEZ 8 9 10 E

11

17

CMTE. SALAS 40

GOBERNADOR EMILIO CIVIT

GRAL. NAPOLEON URIBURU

P

AVE. J.A. ROCA

To Neuquén and Bariloche

Key to map A C D E G H I P $ T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Encotesa Public telephone Mercado Municipal Hospital Dirección de Turismo Y.P.F. Turimalal T.A.C., bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1

Hotel Portal del Valle

Malargüe

3 5 6 8 12 14 16 17 4 7 9

MALARGÜE To

Residencial Llancanelo Hotel Turismo Malargüe Hotel Rioma Hotel Bambi Hotel Pehuén Hotel El Cisne Residencial Scheryl Residencial Theis

4 Eating out

Restaurant Puli–Huén Cafetería Hueney Cafetería Avenida

644

N

FRANCICO ALVAREZ

FRAY LUIS BELTRÁN

15

CMTE. TELES MENESES

T

CNEL. MANUEL RUIBAL

J.F. AMIGORENA

16

13

AVE. RUFINO ORTEGA

12

AVE. GRAL. SAN MARTÍN

ADOLFO PUEBLA

CMTE. ESQUIBEL ALDAO

GRAL. CONRADO DE VILLEGAS 14

10 Cafetería La Primavera 11 Restaurant Gran Parilla El Tío 15 Restaurant El Rey de la Pizza

0 Services 2

Dirección de Bosques y Parques Nacionales 13 Supermarket: Viviana

MENDOZA C Accommodation in Malargüe Hotels

El Cisne, General Villegas 398 ACDEFGHJKLPTUVY Pehuén, Ruibal 101 near Puebla ACDEFGJKLPTUVY *** Portal del Valle, RN 40 ACDEFGJKLPRTUVY Fax 471811 ** Bambi, San Martín 410 near Rodríguez AEFLTUV ** Río Grande, RN 40 Norte KM 432 near Cañada Colorada ADEFGHKLPTUVZ ** Rioma, Fray Inalicán 68 AEFHLPTVXY ** Turismo Malargüe, San Martín 224 AEFHLPTUV • Valle Hermoso, Saturnino Torres 151 *** ***

Residenciales • A B B

Rivero, Ave. San Martín 402 Scheryl, Avenida San Martín 648 Llancanelo, Rufino Ortega 158 Theis, Avenida San Martín 938

LP HLPV L

M Services and facilities •

Supermarket: Viviana, San Martín 599

$H $F

2 2

@ @

471294 471237

$F

2

@ @ @ @

471589 471065 471042 471360

@ @ @ @

471237 471337 470689 fax 471429

s Excursions

The area is largely by-passed by ordinary tourists and has thus preserved much of its original character. Mountain hikes to Laguna Llancanelo 65 km east of Malargüe, with its abundant birdlife, or to the volcanic regions with sulfur thermal springs are just a few of the possibilities. • Las Leñas, including Pozo de las Ánimas, Laguna de la Niña Encantada: Guided tours with a minimum of ten persons • Termas de Cajón Grande, Caverna de las Brujas (see below), and Llano Blanco petrified forest: Guided tour with a minimum of ten persons • Fortín Malal-Hue: 12 km south, off RN 40. This was apparently a fortified ranch house erected about 1870 and not a military fort as originally thought, although a military detachment camped here in 1833 during the first desert campaign. After his pardon last century, Indian Cacique Fraypan raised cattle here • Termas de Azufre: Located in the westernmost part of the Valle Las Leñas almost on the Chilean border. The track leading up is only suitable for four-wheel drive vehicles, and not passable in winter. However, a good road is planned to link the spot to

The airport is on RN 40, just on the south side of town.

U Motoring

Service station: Y.P.F, Avenida San Martín 888

a Sport

Fishing for trout and salmonoids is possible in many mountain lakes and rivers. Fishing licenses may be obtained from the Dirección de Bosques y Parques Provinciales, RN 40. The season runs from November 1 to April 30 for trout, and for pejerrey until July 31. Perch fishing in Río Salado, and Laguna Blanca for pejerrey.

p Sightseeing •

471350 fax 471900

paleontological pieces (15-millionyear-old ammonites)

R Air services

•

@ @

Museo de Ciencias Naturales (Natural Sciences Museum), RN 40 north, in the building of the Dirección de Bosques y Parques Provinciales. This, together with the old mill, was part of the hacienda “La Orteguiña”, which belonged to the colorful General Rufino Ortega, who took part in the Desert Campaign. The museum includes archeological exhibits (a mummy, spearheads), minerals, and

645

Malargüe

CUYO PROVINCES S Buses from Malargüe

There are no buses to Talca in Chile. • Expreso Uspallata, Ave. Roca corner of E. Aldao @ 470514 ° Las Leñas; daily at 08:30 and returning at 17:30 ° Mendoza; 1 service daily • T.A.C., San Martín 680 ° Bariloche (19 hrs) via Chos Mallal (10 hrs) and Zapala (13 hrs); 1 daily ° Mendoza ($14.30, 61 2 hrs) via San Rafael ($7.00; 3 hrs); 2 daily • Transportes Fabian, A. Puebla 157 @ 471297 • Transportes Payún, Ave. Roca 430 @ 471426 • Transporte de Pasajeros San Martín, Ave. San Martín 578 @ 470515 fax • Transporte Excel Class SRL, Uriburu 423 @ 470203 • Transporte Viento Sur, San Martín 891 ° Mendoza; 1–2 daily •

•

•

•

Valle de Las Leñas, Valle Noble, and Valle Hermoso Fishing in the upper reaches of the Río Grande: This is one of the largest rivers in the southern part of the province and flows all year round. It is one of the head-waters of the Río Colorado Caverna de las Brujas (Witches’ Cave): Located on Cerro Mogol, approximately 8 km north of Bardas Blancas. The cave entrance is at 1900 m. The cave was inhabited from earliest times. So far only five kilometers have been mapped and explored. Huge stalagmites and stalactites have been formed through the action of water seeping through fissures in the rock. Some underground halls have been named, such as Sala de la Virgen and Sala de las Flores Laguna de la Niña Encantada (Lake of the Bewitched Child): Located on the left bank of the Río Salado, this lake is about 80 m in diameter and is filled with clear bluish water. It may be the crater of an extinct volcano, and is surrounded by black basalt rocks which give it a forbidding aspect. The lake is alive with trout and fishing is permitted in season. It is located within hiking distance of Los Molles L a g u n a L l a n c a n e l o: 65 k m south-east. The basin covers about 300 square kilometers. The size of the laguna (or more properly salina) varies with the amount of water entering from the rivers which feed it. It has no visible outlet. It has been declared a fauna reserve for abundant birdlife, which includes flamingos and

Malargüe

•

•

•

•

646

black-necked swans. Access is via RP 186 by guided tour only Payún Matrú and Payún Liso: These volcanic ranges are located about 120 km south-east. Access is difficult. The highest elevation is Cerro Payún at 3680 m. The mountains consist of brownish basalt rock, with vast areas consisting simply of lava giving them a moon-like appearance. Thanks to their isolation few tourists venture into this ecologically unique area. Amongst the fauna are guanacos, pumas, and abundant birdlife (including eagles) Los Castillos de Pincheira: 28 km west, near the junction of the Río Pincheira with Río Malargüe on the road to La Valenciana mine. Glaciation has carved out tower-shaped outcrops resembling fortresses. The crystalline Arroyo Pincheira has its source here. It is said this was the hide-out of the Pincheira brothers and his band of Indians outlaws last century. Spearheads can be found here. See also the companion volume Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island “Región VIII del Bío Bío” Río Barrancas: A picturesque alternative route for four-wheel drive vehicles goes via the Portezuelo de Choique. Turn off near Manzano onto the Camino de Calmuco, an 85 km unsealed road, and rejoin RN 40 near Laguna Blanca Llano Blanco: A petrified forest. Turn off to this site 6 km south of Bardas Blancas for petrified araucarias (monkey-puzzle trees), said to be 120 million years old

MENDOZA

MENDOZA

Mendoza Population: 130 000; greater Mendoza: 720 000 Postal code: 5500 @ area code: (0261) Altitude: 761 m Distances From Buenos Aires: 1080 km west on RN 7 • From Santiago de Chile: 400 km east on RN 7 •

M

endoza is situated in the Río Mendoza valley in the pre-cordillera. It was founded in 1561 by Don Pedro del Castillo as he crossed the Andes from Chile. During the Liberation Campaign, José de San Martín crossed the Andes from here, defeating the Spanish Royalist troops in Chile and Perú. In 1861 the town was completely destroyed by an earthquake, and severely damaged by a lesser one in 1985. •

Mendoza is a modern, beautiful, w e l l - l a i d - o u t , t h r i v i n g W e s tern-style metropolis, lying in a perfect setting against the Andes. Because the city sits on an earthquake fault, there are few high-rise buildings. Very little rain falls in this region, but irrigation has transformed Mendoza into a green oasis. Among the features are the tree-lined streets and the many irrigation channels which traverse the city with their ice-cold water. Vineyards and orchards surround the city. Although there is a petrochemical industry, Mendoza has a low pollution level; much of the city’s public transport is by electric trolley-buses or liquid pertroleum gas. Mendoza is also a city of parks and plazas: there are altogether 74 plazas in the metropolitan area, most of which contain statues to their heroes and great men. Mendoza is linked to Buenos Aires by a sealed road, and to Santiago de Chile by an all-weather road. Greater Mendoza includes the following departamentos:

•

• •

647

Las Heras (incorporating El Challao and Las Heras), notable for its camping grounds and night clubs; 170 000 inhabitants Guaymallén (incorporating Dorrego, San José, Villa Nueva, Rodeo de la Cruz, El Sauce, and Bermejo), notable for its hotels and restaurants; 235 000 inhabitants; regular local bus services Godoy Cruz, notable for its restaurants; 190 000 inhabitants Luján de Cuyo is virtually a southern suburb of Mendoza and also forms part of greater Mendoza; facilities have been included under Mendoza. It is located in the Río Mendoza valley 15 km south of Mendoza on RN 40. Luján (incorporating Luján de Cuyo, La Puntilla, Chacras de Coria, and Mayor Drummond), is notable for its motels; 86 000 inhabitants. Facilities are included under their respective headings. Luján de Cuyo has its own postal code — 5507 — but the same telephone area code as Mendoza. It is a retreat for upper-class Mendocinos

Mendoza

CUYO PROVINCES GRAN MENDOZA

To San Juan

To Villa Vicencio and Uspallata

To Aeropuerto Plumerillo

LAS HERAS

23 To Lavalle

To El Challao

40

24

MART

ÍN

JUJUY

LA

PEDRO MOLINA

Parque General San Martín

.R V ID E AVE

T. GOD OY CRU Z

GRAL

To Dique Papagayos

JOSË

PER

U

DE S AN

MENDOZA

AVE . C

OLÓN Refer Map Mendoza 2 and 3

T

AVE

. AC

CE

SO TE

GUAYMALLEN

CNE

L DO

RRE

GO

ES

Hipodromo

7

N

3

A V IA

GODOY CRUZ

To San Luis

R IV A D

4

R IG

UEZ

PEÑ

A

UR

QU

IZA

ROD

SARM

IE N T

O

R

1

SU

MAIPÚ

7

AC

CE

SO

UGARTE

40

To Chile

•

To Uspallata

To Tunuyán

and boasts many splendid villas. Some of the biggest bodegas or wineries in the province are also located here. Municipal buses to Mendoza depart every 15 minutes Maipú is also capital of a departamento in Mendoza Prov-

Mendoza

ince. Like Luján de Cuyo, the town of Maipú forms part of greater Mendoza. It has its own postal code — 5515 — but the same telephone area code as Mendoza. It is only 16 km south-east of Mendoza and linked by frequent bus services. 648

MENDOZA Key to map B C D E G H I P $ T

Gobernación Provincial Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica Argentina Mercado Central Hospital Tourist Office A.C.A. service station Cambio Exprinter Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 17 20 21 22 24 25 26 27 29 32 37 38 39 41 44 46 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 62 67 68 71 73 80 82

Hotel Derby Hospedaje Aragón Hotel Vecchia Roma Hotel Vendimia Hotel City Hospedaje Escorial Hotel Margal Hotel Gutelcas Hotel Rosario Hotel Andino Hotel Roya Hotel Marconi Hotel Laerte Hospedaje Vigo Hotel Petit Hotel Rincón Vasco Hotel Necochea Hotel Gran Balbi Hotel El Torreón Hotel Imperial Hotel Palace Hotel Pacífico Hospedaje Savoy Hotel Nuevo Horizonte Hotel Provincial Hotel Casino Hospedaje Mayo Hotel Castelar Hotel Castillo Hotel Argentino Hotel San Martín Hotel Gran Mendoza Hospedaje Zamora Hospedaje Venus Hotel Carollo Hotel Plaza Hotel 1 de Mayo Hotel Internacional

83 84 93 94 97 98 103 106 107 109 110 111

Hotel Gran Ritz Hotel Crillón Hotel 27 de Agosto Hotel Huentala Hospedaje Belgrano Hospedaje Balear Hotel Cervantes Hotel Aconcagua Hotel Nutibara Hospedaje Galicia Hospedaje Terminal Residencial Evelyn

4 Eating out

2 Club Sirio 12 Restaurant El Dragón de Oro 15 Restaurant Pic-Nic 16 Restaurant Mi Querencia 18 Pizzería Un Rincón de la Boca 19 Restaurant Montecatini 23 Restaurant Centro Andaluz 28 Restaurant Braserias 31 Fast food Mankie 34 Restaurant Ahla Usahla 40 Restaurant Centro Catalán 48 Restaurant La Emiliana 52 Pizzería Trento 53 Restaurant Lindo 61 Cafetería Cafetín 65 Restaurant El Vergel 66 Pizzería Negro El Seis 69 Restaurant Alpenrose 70 Restaurant Trattoria Aveni 75 Cafetería Vadinho 81 Restaurant Date Cuenta 88 Restaurant Bordeaux Internacional 99 Restaurant Club Español 108 Restaurant El Mesón Español 114 Restaurant La Nueva Parrala 115 Pizzería La Veneciana

5 Entertainment 42 Teatro Mendoza 51 Teatro Opera

Maipú (incorporating Luzuriaga), notable for its wineries; 135 000 inhabitants

• •

A Festivals •

•

Crossing of the Andes festival: January 18 Fiesta de la Vendimia (Grape Harvest Festival): March. The highlight of the

649

72 Casino

6 Airline offices 76 77 86 87

LAN Chile DINAR Kaikén Líneas Aéreas Transportes Aereos Neuquinos TAN 90 Ladeco 91 Aerolineas Argentinas-Austral

7 Tour operators and car rental 13 Turismo Cóndor 14 Esqui Mendoza Competición 30 Gravitours S.R.L. 43 Avis Rent-a-Car 47 Localiza 63 Andesmar Turismo 74 Mendoza Viajes 89 Vida y Aventura Travel 95 Turismo Sepean 96 A1 Rent a Car 100 TTA Tours 102 Aymará S.R.L., 104 Dollar Rent a Car 113 Rent a Car Lis Car

9 Sights

33 Basilica San Francisco 85 Museo Municipal de Arte Moderno 105 Museo del Pasado Cuyano

0 Services 11 35 36 45 49 50 64 78 79 92 101 112

Ferrocarril General Mitre Migración Banco de la Nación Italian consulate Banco de Galicia Banco de Mendoza Cambio Mundial Cambio Santiago Mercado Artesanal Citibank German consulate Laverap

event is the crowning of the Queen of the Grape Harvest, held in the Amphitheatre of the Parque San Martín Santiago (St James): July 25 Virgen de Carmen del Cuyo: September 8. Catholic festival in honor of the Virgin

Mendoza

CUYO PROVINCES To San Juan and Villavicencio GRAL

68 70 69

NO

To El Challao

AVE. SA 82

MITR E

INAS

N MA AVE. SA

35 36 Plaza San Martín

$

8

ENTRE RÍOS

40

43 42 41

BUENOS AIRES 50

5960

$

51 52 53

LAVALLE

61 62

RMIE NTO

RTÍN

JULIO

ÑA ESPA

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$

49 48

71

67 66

E. CIV IT

34 37

33

58

57 56

O

LGRA

47

55

ESPE J

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46

54

A. AL VARE Z

ZAPA TA

31 32

38 39

SALTA

Plaza Chile GUTIÉ RREZ

30

SAN LUIS

LA RIOJA

45 44

NEDA

27 28 29

21

SAN JUAN

N

N. AV ELLA

CHEA

7 G

S ME

NECO

26

14 1516

CÓRDOBA

5 19 20

PATR ICIA

E

17 18 E

AVEN IDA

UIRR

AVE. GOD OY C RUZ 6

4 3

RAS

CHIL E

25

L. AG

S HE

MAYO

24

25 DE

AVE. LA

22 23

PERÚ

ENO

STO

9 DE

. PAZ 12 13

11

J.B.JU MOR

T. BENEGAS

9 10

73 72

63

Plaza

64

65

$

84

83

85

RIVAD AVIA

CATAMARCA

75 74 76

$

$

Independencia

78

I

77 97

MON

98

LÓN

AVE. L.N. ALEM 109

113

DON BOSCO 114

115

AVE. J.V. Z APAT A

AVE. PEDRO MOLINA

PARD

O

To San Luis and Buenos Aires

P

Plaza España

SALTA

104 108

96

103

106

112

A 94

102

101

ZO

RIOJA

95

93 AMIG OREN

100

99 105

107

AVE. CO

GARIBALDI

$

92

P. DE LA RETA

LORE N

91

87

SAN JUAN

TEVID E

80

90

86

O Plaza Italia

SAN

79

89 88

MENDOZA CENTRO Rondeau

To Chile

•

B Tourist information •

Tourist Office at San Martín 1143, @ 4202400. Has a list of private accommodation, translators, baby-sitters and so on in the bus terminal

•

Tourist information in Guaymallén • Club Andinista Mendoza, Fray Beltrán 357 @ 4319870 • Centro de Información Turística, Acceso Este, Lateral Norte 1585 @ 4317371

•

El Challao, Avenida Champagnat, El Challao (in the northern part of Mendoza) @ 4292019 Parque Suizo, Avenida Champagnat, El Challao (in the northern part of Mendoza) @ 4255755 $4.00 per person/tent Saucelandia, Tirasso, El Sauce, Guaymallén @ 4263699

E Eating out

Some of the best restaurants are located in Luján de Cuyo; see Eating out in Luján de Cuyo on page 654. I recommend these local wines: “Cruz de Sur” and “Tinto Seco” from Bodega Arizú; and Valroy’s “Cuesta de Parsal”, burgundy (borgoño), cabernet sauvignon, and “Viejo Toro”.

D Camping

The nearest camp sites are at El Challao, about 8 km north from the city; take bus 15.

Mendoza

To San Rafael and Neuquén

650

MENDOZA C Accommodation in Mendoza Accommodation in central district Apart Hotels ** *

Hotels **** **** **** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** **

El Pino Azul, San Martín 2848 Cordillera, J.B. Justo 144

AEFGJLPUV EFHL

@ @

4304240 4234597

Aconcagua, San Lorenzo 545 ACDEFGHJKLMNPRS$TUVYZ Fax 4311085/4298396 @ 4204499 Huentala, P. de La Reta 1007 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 4200664 @ 4200766 Plaza, Chile 1124 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 4256300 @ 4233000/811 Cervantes, Amigorena 65 ACDEFGHJKLMP$STUVY Fax 4201732 Web site: www.hotcervantes.com.ar @ 4201782 Crillón, Perú 1065 ACDEFGHJKLMP$TUVY @ 4298494 Fax 4248079/4239658 Gran Ariosto, Infanta M. San Martín 48 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 4293051 Fax 4293055 Gran Balbi, Las Heras 340 ACDEFGJKLMPR$TUVY @ 4233500 Fax 4380626 Gran Mendoza, España 1210 ACDEFGHJKLMPS$TUVY Fax 4252000/4252245 @ 4252000 Gran Ritz, Perú 1008 ACDEFGJKLMPS$TUVY @ 4235115 Fax 4248538 Internacional, Sarmiento 720 ACDEFGHJKLMPRTUVY Fax 4311208/4298777 @ 4255600 Nutibara, Mitre 867 ACDEFGHJKLPRS$TUVY Fax 4296628/4296761 @ 4295428 Acapulco, P. Mendocinas 1785 AEFGJLPUV @ 4250771 Fax 4320124 América, J.B. Justo 812 AEFGJLPUV @ 4256514 Fax 4254022 Argentino, Espejo 455 AEFGJLPSUV @ 4254000 fax Carollo, 25 de Mayo 1184 ACDEFGJLPRTUVY @ 4235666/7 Fax 4235669 Castelar, Gutiérrez 598 AEFGJLPUV @ 4234245 Fax 4380085/4203313 El Torreón, Ave. España 1433 AEFGJLPUV @ 4233900 Milena, Pasaje Babilonia 17 ADEFGHJLPTUVY Fax 4200490 @ 4200284 Pacífico, San Juan 1407 AEFGJLPUV @ 4201025 Fax 4235445 Palace, Las Heras 70 ACEFGJLPTUV @ 4234200 Fax 4295930 Primero de Mayo, Garibaldi 80 AEFGJLPUV @ 4204820 Fax 4204296 Provincial, Belgrano 1259 AEFGJLPUV @ 4231477 Fax 4231477 Vecchia Roma, España 1615 AEFJLPTUVY @ 4230570 Fax 4382032 27 de Agosto, Amigorena 36 AEFGJLPUV @ 4246031 Fax 4200023 Vendimia, Godoy Cruz 102 AEFGJLPUV @ 4256075 Fax 4233099

651

$G $F

2 2

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2

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2

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$F $F

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Mendoza

CUYO PROVINCES Accommodation in Mendoza — continued ** * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

4200968 4201659 4256666 4257370 4238270 fax 4251343 fax 4234696 4294431 4234671 4230875

$G $G $H $G $G

2 2 2 2 2

$G

2

$G

2

AELPV AELPV AEGHLPV AELPV ADELPVY

@ @ @ @ @ @

4253501 4253998 4233033 4254765 4380522 fax 4234068

$G

2

$G $G $G $H

2 2 2 2

Aragón, Godoy Cruz 212 LP Presidencial Avellaneda, N Avellaneda 810 LP Balcarce, San Martín 1446 AGHLPV Belgrano, Belgrano 965 LP Escorial, San Luis 263 LPV España, Vicente López 420 LP Forli, Cnel. Plaza 515 LP Galicia, San Juan 881 LP Ideal, J.B. Justo 270 ALPRVY La Posta del Cuyo, Godoy Cruz 463 LP Las Viñas, Martínez de Rosas 1668 LP Lendi, R E de San Martín 2265 LP Mallorca, Roca 719 LP Mayo, 25 de Mayo 1265 LP San Cayetano, Chile 1739 LP Venus, Perú 1155 LP Vigo, Necochea 749 AHLP Zamora, Perú 1156 ALPV

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

4232474 4230208 4252579 4247978 4254777 4244955 4234651 4202619 4256842 4233730 4232501 4235369 4233079 4254424 4255402 4254147 4250208 4257537

$H $H $H

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@ @ @ @ @

4380901 4233636 fax 4252013 fax 4232099 4297885

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@

4381226

@

4312168

Villa Ines, Sobremonte 648 Andino, P. Mendocinas 1528 Casino, Gutiérrez 688 Castillo, Gutiérrez 572 Center, Alem 547 City, General Paz 95 Cristal, Rioja 1776 Derby, P. Mendocinas 1643 Imperial, Las Heras 88 Laerte, Leonidas Aguirre 19, Necochea, Necochea 541 E-mail:[email protected] Nuevo Horizonte, Gutiérrez 565 Rincón Vasco, Las Heras 590 Rosario, Chile 1579 Royal, 9 de Julio 1550 San Remo, Godoy Cruz 477

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Hospedajes A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A

Accommodation near railroad station Hotels * * * * *

El Marqués, J.B. Justo 67 Marconi, J.B. Justo 28 Margal, J.B. Justo 75 Petit, Perú 1459 Rex, J.B. Justo 367

AELPV AELPV AELPV AEGLPVY AELPV

Residenciales

C Savoy, Belgrano 1377

Accommodation in Dorrego **

Hotel Panamericano, A. Calle 895 E-mail:[email protected]

Mendoza

AHPRY

652

MENDOZA Accommodation in Mendoza — continued Accommodation in San José near the bus terminal Hotels • Providencia, Bandera de los Andes 535 Alberdi, Alberdi 51 AELPV

*

Residenciales A B • • • •

Balear, Mitre 998 Terminal, Alberdi 261 Betty, Güemes 456. Basic Evelyn, Güemes 294. Basic “402", Güemes 402. Basic San Fernando, Güemes 448. Basic

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Accommodation in El Challao ***

Hotel Termas del Challao, Circuito Turístico Fax 4445560; sauna ACDEFGJKLPRTUVY

Accommodation in Chacras de Coria

• Hotel San Francisco, Pueyrredón 2665

Accommodation in Luján de Cuyo Hotel Patricios, Patricios 421 B Residencial España, Alvear 165

*

AELPV L

Accommodation on Embalse El Carrizal • Cabañas Portal del Lago

• Cafeterías • • Cafetín, Espejo 261 • Vadinho, España 1159 • Restaurants • Alpenrose, Sarmiento 641. German • cuisine & • • Aramis, R E de San Martín 2065. Parrilla & • • Boccadoro, Avenida B. Mitre 1976. Parrilla • • Bordeaux Internacional, Avenida España 1050. International cuisine. • • Braserias, Las Heras 510. Parrilla • Casa Vieja, Belgrano 1227. French cui• sine • • Centro Andaluz, L. Aguirre 35. Spanish cuisine • • Centro Catalán, San Juan 1436. Span• ish cuisine • Club Español, Avenida España 948. • Spanish cuisine • • Date Cuenta, Montecaseros 1177. & • Vegetarian cuisine • El Buen Ten Ten, Granaderos near J.B. • Justo. Parrilla • El Dragón de Oro, 25 de Mayo 1553. • Chinese cuisine

653

El Escorial, Primitivo de La Reta 1007 El Mangrullo, Parque General San Martín El Mesón Español, Montevideo 244. Spanish cuisine El Vergel, Catamarca 76 Gran Avenida Parrilla, Avenida San Martín 930. Parrilla Hotel Aconcagua, San Lorenzo 545. International cuisine La Cocina, Belgrano near Espejo. Seafood La Emiliana, General Gutiérrez 261. International cuisine Lindo, Lavalle 126. Chinese cuisine Mercado Central, Ave. Las Heras block 200 near Patricias Mendocinas Mi Querencia, Las Heras 523 Montecatini S.R.L., General Paz 370. Italian cuisine Pic-Nic, Las Heras 579 Sancho, Amigorena 65 Trevi, Hotel Palace, Las Heras 70. International cuisine Trattoria Aveni, 25 de Mayo 1158. Italian cuisine Vecchia Roma, Hotel Vecchia Roma, España 1619. Italian cuisine

Mendoza

CUYO PROVINCES • Tiempo, J A Roca 635 Eating out in Godoy Cruz Restaurants • Di Pappo, Avenida San Martín 1721 Lomo Campeón, Ruta • El Panamericana 1877 near Río Negro. Parrilla • El Lomo Loco, San Martín Sur 3001. Parrilla • La Casona, San Martín Sur. Shows • La Nueva Parrala, Colón 83 • Pizzería Scala, San Martín Sur 898 • Schoenbrunn, San Martín 996. Beer garden; German cuisine Eating out in Guaymallén Excellent restaurants are also run by national clubs; see Clubs below. Restaurants • Blanco, Correa Saa 1694 near Soler, San José • Don Mario, 25 de Mayo 1324 near P de Los Patos, Dorrego. Parrilla • Don Venancio, Rosales 300, Dorrego • Nahuel, Acceso Este 2089 near C Alegre, San José/Villanueva • Nuevo Horizonte, Fería de Guaymallén Local 2 Villanueva Pizzerías • Bambi, Godoy Cruz 705, San José • Campos, Godoy Cruz 708, San José • Che Bartolo, Alberdi 135, San José • de Un Rincón de La Boca, Avenida Libertad 920, Villa Nueva • Etna, Godoy Cruz 2480, San José Eating out in Las Heras • Ahla Usahla, Avenida España 1477. Lebanese cuisine • Pizzería Bambi, J A Roca 610 Eating out in Parque General San Martín • Restaurant Del Parque • Restaurant Del Zoo • Restaurant La Punta del Lago • Restaurant La Vizcachera • Restaurant Las Terrazas Club, Carlos W Lencinas. Parrilla • Restaurant Regatas, Las Palmeras Eating out in Luján de Cuyo Restaurants • Edelweiss, San Martín 3696, near Museo Fader. International cuisine

To San Juan

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Key to map A D E H I $ T

Catedral Nuestra Señora de Loreto Correo Argentino Telefónica Argentina Hospital Tourist Office Money exchange Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 110 Hotel terminal 111 Residencial Evelyn 116 Residencial 402

4 Eating out

81 Restaurant Date Cuenta

Pizzerías • La Veneciana, San Martín 739 • Negro El Seis, Sarmiento 777 • Top, San Martín 1042 • Trento, Lavalle 102 (corner of San Juan) & • Un Rincón de La Boca, Las Heras 485 Fast food • Don Claudio, Benegas 740. Sandwich shop • Juan Sebastián, A Villanueva 757. Bar • Mankie, Las Heras 396

Mendoza

654

MENDOZA •

•

El Amasijo, Ugarte 802 near Aliaga, La Puntilla. Spanish cuisine and show N’Ontue, Ugarte 314, La Puntilla

•

• Eating out in Maipú Restaurants • Cava Vieja, Ozamis 1040. Shows • Opciones, Belgrano 244. Parrilla • Tío Sam, Maza 297

M Services and facilities

• •

Laundromat: Laverap, Colon 547 Supermarket: Supermercado Metro, Avenida San Martín 1040 Hire of camping and skiing equipment • Esqui Mendoza Competición, Las Heras 583 @ 4252801 • Mendoza Camping, R Escalada 2397 • Rezagos de Ejercito (“Army disposal store”), Mitre 2002 near Coronel Plaza @ 4233791

n Entertainment •

Casino, 25 de Mayo 1123, daily from 22:00–03:00 • Disco Saudades, San Martín 213 near J. Barraquero • Teatro Mendoza, San Juan 1427 • Teatro Municipal, Plaza Independencia • Teatro Opera, Lavalle 54 Entertainment in Las Heras • Disco La Chimere, Quintana near San Esteban, Algarrobal • Disco Sir Lancelot, Avenida Champagnat, El Challao • Disco Tempo, Avenida Champagnat, El Challao Entertainment in Godoy Cruz • Disco Forum, San Martín 101 Entertainment in Guaymallén • Disco Bisanzio, Avenida de Acceso 1081, Dorrego Entertainment in Luján de Cuyo • Disco Afrika, Ruta Panamericana,

N Clubs

• • • • •

•

German: Club Alemán, Olmedo 1921, Dorrego (a locality in Guaymallén) @ 4264410 German: Goethe Institut, Moron 275 @ 249407. Shows German movies Italian: Club Italiano, Godoy Cruz 529 @ 4231767 Spanish: Club Español, Avenida España 948 @ 4294040 @ 4245313 Syrian: Club Sirio, Córdoba 339 @ 4257333

P Visas, passports

• • •

I Post and telegraph •

Cambio Santiago, San Martín 1199 @ 4202696 Citibank, San Martín 1092 @ 4204116

•

Central post office: Correo Argentino, San Martín 678 near Colón Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Avenida Las Heras 449

• •

L Financial

Visa extensions: Migración, Avenida España 1425 @ 4380569 Bolivian consulate, 25 de Mayo 1901 @ 4292458 Chilean consulate, E Civit 599 @ 4255024 German consulate, Montevideo 127 @ 4296539 Italian consulate, Necochea 712 @ 4231640 Spanish consulate, Alvarez 455 @ 4253947

Q Border crossing

Banks are open only in the morning, the same as public offices. However ATMs can be used 24 hours. • Banco de Mendoza, Gutiérrez near 9 de Julio @ 4251200. ATM • Cambio Exprinter, San Martín 1198 near Espejo @ 4380399 & • Cambio Maguitur, San Martín 1203 near Catamarca @ 4380396 • Cambio Mundial, Catamarca 12 @ 4230808

The Argentine border control point is at Punta de Vacas, 30 km from Las Cuevas. Chilean passport control is just on the other side of the tunnel. There is an exchange bureau in the Chilean border control building which gives good rates for cash and travelers’ checks.

T Trains

All passenger train services have been suspended.

655

Mendoza

CUYO PROVINCES R Air services from Mendoza

Plumerillo Airport is 10 km from the city center. Bus 6 from the corner of San Juan and Alem goes to the airport. Airlines • Aerolíneas Argentinas-Austral, Paseo Sarmiento 82 @ 4204139 fax • Andesmar, Espejo 189 @ 4380654 ° Tucumán via Córdoba; 2 daily ° Rosario via Córdoba; 6 weekly ° Salta; 6 weekly • DINAR, Sarmiento 119 near San Martín @ 4204520 fax 4205138 ° Buenos Aires; 1–2 daily • Kaikén Líneas Aéreas, Rivadavia 209 @ 4380243 ° Ushuaia via Neuquén, Bariloche, Comodoro Rivadavia, Lago Argentino, Río Gallegos, Río Grande, andUshuaia; 4–6 weekly • Ladeco, Sarmiento 144 @ 4291868 (to Santiago de Chile) • LAPA, España 1012 @ • Southern Winds Líneas Aéreas, Catamarca 63 @ 4293200; e-mail: [email protected] ° Buenos aires via Córdoba and Rosario • Transportes Aéreos Neuquinos TAN, Avenida España 1008 @ 4340240 ° Neuquén via Chos Malal; 2–3 daily Services • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Buenos Aires Catamarca Chilecito Córdoba Neuquén La Rioja Rosario Salta San Juan Tucumán Ushuaia

Fare $175.00 $105.00 $105.00 $69.00 $120.00 $105.00 $131.00 $168.00 $146.00 $350.00

Duration 11 2 hrs 11 2 hrs 23 4 hrs 21 2 hrs 21 2 hrs 31 4 hrs 1 hour 2 21 4 hrs

U Motoring

However the big shopping centers like Mendoza Plaza Shoping or the Centro Comercial Palmares have continous trading hours. Mendoza has good shopping facilities with some very large shopping centers downtown and in the suburbs. Mendoza Plaza located in Villa Nueva on Avenida Acceso Este 3280 is a huge shopping complex with plenty of boutiques, restaurants. • Mercado Artesanal Mendocino, San Martín 1141. Here the people from the mountain villages and from the desert sell their artefacts: leather goods, woollen fabrics. Open Monday–Saturday 09:00–12:00

Car rental • A1 Rent a Car, San Juan 1012 @ 4202666 • Avis Rent-a-Car, Rioja 1462 @ 4255601 • Dollar Rent a Car, P. de la Reta 936 @ 4298734 • Localiza, Gutierrez 470 @4491491 • Rent a Car Lis Car, San Lorenzo 110 @ 4291416 Service stations • A.C.A., San Martín 985 @ 4202900

Y Shopping

Shopping is concentrated in Las Heras and Avenida San Martín between Las Heras and Rivadavia. There is a small “Siesta Mendocina” or lunch break during which shops and offices are closed. Mendoza

656

MENDOZA S Buses from Mendoza

The bus terminal is on Alberdi near Costanera, Guaymallén @ 4321313. It has a branch of the Banco de Mendoza and a tourist information office at local D1 @ 4313001. Bus companies • Andesmar @ 4313953/4316002 ° Bahía Blanca via San Luis, Realicó, and Santa Rosa; 1 daily ° Esquel via Neuquén, Zapala, Junín de los Andes, San Martín de los Andes, and El Bolsón; 2 daily ° Esquel via San Rafael, Gral Alvear (5 hrs), Catriel, Neuquén, Piedra del Águila, Bariloche, and El Bolsón; 1 daily ° Mar del Plata via San Luis, Vicuña Mackenna, General Pico, Coronel Suárez, Necochea, and Miramar; 1 daily ° Osorno (43.50) via Santiago de Chile, Talca ($27.50), Temuco ($37.50), Valdivia ($40.00); in vacation season ° Pocitos (Bolivian border) via San Juan, Chepes, La Rioja, Catamarca, Tucumán, General Güemes, Salta, Jujuy; 1–2 daily ° Río Gallegos via San Rafael, General Alvear, Catriel, Neuquén, Choele Choel, San Antonio Oeste, Sierra Grande, Puerto Madryn, Trelew, Rawson, Comodoro Rivadavia, Caleta Olivia, San Julián; 3 weekly • Autotransportes San Juan-Mar del Plata ° Buenos Aires via San Martín (3 hrs) and San Luis ° Córdoba via San Luis and Villa Mercedes (6 hrs); 2 daily ° Mar del Plata (22 hrs) via San Luis, Villa Mercedes (6 hrs), Río Cuarto (71 2 hrs), La Carlota (9 hrs), Venado Tuerto (11 hrs), Junín (13 hrs), and Tandil (181 2 hrs); 1 daily • Bosio SRL L39 @ 4311115 ° Jujuy via San Juan, La Rioja, Catamarca, Tucumán, and Salta • Central Argentino, local 10 @ 4313112 ° Córdoba via Mina Clavero and Villa Carlos Paz ° La Plata via Buenos Aires • ECLA Empresa de Transportes, local 7 @ 4310508 ° Tunuyán via Tupungato • El Rápido ° Buenos Aires via San Luis ° General Alvear (5 hrs) via San Rafael; 4 daily ° Mar del Plata via San Luis ° Rosario via Córdoba • El Triunfo ° Calingasta via Uspallata and Barreal (41 2 hrs); • Empresa Maipú, local A5 @ 4323471 • Empresa Alto Valle ° Neuquén • Empresa del Sur y Media Agua, east wing, @ 4324214, @ 4312570 ° San José de Jáchal via San Juan; 3 daily ° San Rafael and Neuquén via San Rafael; 1 daily • Empresa Vallecito SRL, local C4 @ 4320935 ° Las Rioja via San Juan and Chilecito; 1 daily ° San Agustín de Valle Fértil (61 2 hrs) via San Juan • Expreso Uspallata, local D26 @ 4316773 ° Buenos Aires via San Luis; daily ° Córdoba via San Luis, Merlo, Mina Clavero, and Villa Carlos Paz; 2 daily ° General Alvear via San Rafael ° Las Leñas (during skiing season) ° Puente del Inca via Uspallata and Los Penitentes; 2–3 daily

657

Mendoza

CUYO PROVINCES Buses from Mendoza — continued ° Valle de Las Leñas (7 hrs); 3 weekly Expreso Jocolí, local D27 @ 4314409 ° Buenos Aires via San Luis ° Córdoba via San Luis, Merlo, and La Falda; 1–3 daily ° Los Penitentes (3 hrs) via Uspallata; 1 daily ° Mar del Plata via San Luis, Santa Rosa, and Tandil; 1 daily ° Vallecitos (2 hrs); 1 service daily ° Villavicencio; 3 weekly • T.A. Chevallier @ 4310235 ° Córdoba via San Luis, Merlo, and Mina Clavero ° La Plata via San Luis,Villa Mercedes, Río Cuarto, and Buenos Aires ° San Martín (1 hour); 3–4 daily • T.A.C. @ 4312860/4313410 ° Valle de Las Leñas (6 hrs); leaving 06:00 and returning 18:00 ° Trelew via San Luis, Santa Rosa, Bahía Blanca,and Puerto Madryn; 1 daily ° Mar del Plata via San Luis, Santa Rosa, and Tandil; 1 daily ° La Plata via Buenos Aires ° Paraná via Mina Clavero, Merlo,Villa Carlos Paz, Córdoba, Rosario, and Santa Fe; 2 daily ° Jujuy via San Juan, San José de Jáchal, La Rioja, Catamarca, Tucumán, and Salta ° Neuquén via San Rafael (33 4 hrs) and General Alvear; 2 daily ° Santiago de Chile; with connections to Valparaiso and Viña del Mar ° Mendoza and Malargüe; 2 daily ° San Rafael and Malargüe; 1 daily • Transporte La Cumbre @ 43154897 • Transportes La Estrella SRL, local F3 and C3 @ 4311324 ° Jujuy via San Juan, La Rioja, Catamarca, Tucumán, and Salta; 1 daily • Villa María ° Paraná via Mina Clavero,Villa Carlos Paz, Córdoba, and Santa Fe Companies with own terminal • Autotransporte El Trapiche, Italia 1990 Godoy Cruz @ 4391332 ° Luján de Cuyo • Mendoza Viajes, Sarmiento 129 near 9 de Julio @ 4380480 ° Las Leñas; daily services • Transportes General B. Mitre SRL, Bandera de los Andes 1507 Guaymallén @ 4313453 • Transporte Viento Sur, Ave. España 1112 ° Malargüe • Turismo Mendoza, Ave. Las Heras 543 @ 4292013 ° Las Leñas (in skiing season) Buses to Chile A return ticket is slightly cheaper than two singles. Some companies pick up passengers from their hotels. There are up to 12 daily bus services daily taking 7–9 hrs. • CATA LTDA., Pellegrini 756 @ 4272701 • Chile Bus, local E15 @ 4315596 • Radiomóvil, local E3 @ 4312828 •

Mendoza

658

MENDOZA Buses from Mendoza — continued • • • • • • • • • • • •

Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Bahía Blanca $60.00 Bariloche $65.00 Buenos Aires $57.00 Caleta Olivia $100.00 Calingasta $12.00 Catamarca $44.00 Comodoro Rivadavia $97.00 Córdoba $32.00 Esquel $85.00 Jujuy $66.00 La Plata $60.00 La Rioja $36.00 Las Leñas $15.00 Los Penitentes $11.00 Malargüe $22.00 Mar del Plata $90.00 Neuquén $50.00 Puerto Madryn $90.00

Duration 19 hrs 21 hrs 14 hrs 32 hrs 51 2 hrs 11 hrs 31 hrs 10 hrs 25 hrs 20 hrs 16 hrs 8 hrs 7 hrs 33 4 hrs) 61 2 hrs 211 2 hrs 121 2 hrs 24 hrs

• • • • • • •

•

Rawson $93.00 Río Gallegos $161.00 Rosario $46.20 Salta $60.00 San Juan $10.00 San Luis $24.00 Santiago de Chile$25.00 Talca (Chile) Valparaíso $25.00 Villa Carlos Paz $29.00 Viña del Mar $25.00 Santa Rosa (La Pampa) $40.00 Santiago del Estero $48.00 Termas de Río Hondo $50.00 Trelew $76.00 Tucumán $55.00 Uspallata $8.50 Villa Carlos Paz $29.00 Zapala $50.00

25 hrs 41 hrs 13 hrs 20 hrs 2 hrs 4 hrs 7 hrs 7 hrs 10 hrs 7 hrs 12 hrs

19 hrs 24 hrs 151 2 hrs 10 hrs 16 hrs

a Sport

Plaza de Artes. This is another artist fair, open on Fri, Sat, Sun. Located on the west side of Plaza Independencia Bodegas Mendoza is famous for its wines. The wine-making season runs from March to April. Wineries, or bodegas, are open to visitors, but opening times may change depending on the season. Prices at the bodegas are not necessarily cheaper than in other retail outlets. • Bodega Chandon, RN 40 KM 29 Agrelo, open Mon–Fri. Guided tours from 09:30 onwards take 11 2 hrs • Bodega Escorihuela, Belgrano 1188, Godoy Cruz Shopping in Maipú • Bodega Giol, Ozamis 1040, Maipú. This is one of the world’s biggest wineries. Take bus 16, 17, or 18 (every hour). Guided tours Monday–Saturday 09:00–19:00. On the premises is Restaurante Cava Vieja with excellent meals where you can try the local wine. Included in the tour is a visit to the Museo Nacional del Vino y La Vendimia (Wine Museum) • Bodega Toso, Alberdi 808, San José. Walking distance from city center

Mountaineering • Licenses are issued for prospective mountaineers to cover the cost for rescue missions: $80.00 per person for Cerro Aconcagua and Cerro Tupungato. For trekkers a three day license costs $15.00 and for longer treks $30.00 • The trekking areas mostly frequented are: Parque Provincial Aconcagua, Parque Provincial Tupungato, Valle Las Leñas and Valle de los Manantiales Golf • Golf Club Andino, south section of Parque General San Martín @ 4240410/4285410 • Club de Campo Mendoza, Elpidio González near Tuyuti, San Francisco del Monte, Godoy Cruz @ 4227269/4315968; 18 holes on 37 ha (91 acres) Tennis • Mendoza Tenis Club, Avenida Boulogne sur Mer 1230 @ 4380124 fax Sport in Luján de Cuyo Trout fishing in Dique Cipolletti, 7 km away. A.C.A. hostería and camping. 659

Mendoza

CUYO PROVINCES Sur Mer 2136 @ 4230618/4247666. Open Tues–Fri 09:00–13:00 and 15:00–20:00, Sat–Sun 16:00–20:00 • Museo Histórico General San Martín (General San Martín History Museum), R E de San Martín 1843. On exhibit are memorabilia of General San Martín, of his battles. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–12:30 and 17:00–20:00 • Museo Mineralógico Manuel Tellechea (Manuel Tellechea Minerals Museum), Cricyt, Parque General San Martín, @ 4242147. Contains over 3000 mineral and rock samples and a specialized subject library • Acuario Municipal (Municipal Aquarium), corner of Buenos Aires and Ituzaingó. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–12:00 and 15:30–21:00 • Roof-top observation platform, 9 de Julio 500. No charge • Convento de San Francisco: Ruins of a Franciscan convent and church, near Plaza Pedro de Castillo. Destroyed by earthquake in 1861 • Basilica San Francisco, Ave. España near Necochea Sightseeing in Luján de Cuyo • Museo Municipal (Municipal Museum), San Martín 250. Colonial-style hacienda • Antique church, a historical monument • Museo Bellas Artes “Emiliano Guiñazu” (Emiliano Guiñazu Fine Arts Museum), RN 40 3251. Dedicated to an Argentine artist, the museum is surrounded by sculptures in the garden. Entry is free

p Sightseeing

& Mendoza has a municipal tourist bus which serves all the points of interest. It operates from 10:00 until 20:00, fare $10.00 valid for one day; trips may be interrupted as often as you wish. • Parque General San Martín is located about ten blocks uphill from the city center. It is a huge public space, well laid out, with a one-kilometer watercourse where the local regatta club holds races. Other club facilities located in the park include a race course, golf club, and tennis club; close by is the Meteorological Observatory. Take bus 3 from the city center • Further west is the Estadio Islas Malvinas, and at the foot of Cerro de la Gloria is the Jardín Zoológico (Zoological Garden); covers 40 ha (100 acres). On top of Cerro de la Gloria is an impressive monument depicting the crossing of the Andes by General San Martín. On the rectangular block there are life-size scenes of this historic event. At night it is floodlit and can be seen from afar. Well worth a visit. A café is situated on the hilltop • Museo Arqueológico (Archeology Museum), Centro Universitario, Parque General San Martín @ 494093/253010. Open Mon–Fri 08:30–12:45 and 15:00–18:00. Take bus 110 UNC. Admission $1.00 • Museo Municipal de Arte Moderno (Municipal Modern Art Museum), on Plaza Independencia underground. Exhibited are paintings and sculptures. Open Tues–Sat 09:00–13:00 and 16:00–21:00. Free admission • Museo de Bellas Artes Fader (Fader Fine Arts Museum), RN 40 South, district of Mayor Drummond/Luján • Museo del Pasado Cuyano (Cuyo History Museum), Montevideo 544. Located in the Casa de (”House of”) Francisco Civit, a former Governor of Mendoza. It has a collection from the colonial period and the history of Mendoza. Open Tues–Sat 09:00–13:00 and 16:00–21:00 • Museo del Vino (Wine Museum), Centro Cívico, Peltier 611 @ 428827 • Museo de Ciencias Naturales (Natural Science Museum), Ave. Boulogne

Mendoza

Sightseeing in Maipú • Museo Arqueológico Municipal (Municipal Archeology Museum), corner of Sarmiento and Patricias Mendocinas

s Excursions Adventure tour operators • Aymará S.R.L., 9 de Julio 983 @ 4200607 fax 4205304 • Betancourt Rafting, Panamericana 2129 Trapiche–Godoy Cruz @ 4390229; e-mail: betancourt@lanet. com.ar. Betancourt on request will send you a very informative e-mail describing tours (trekking, mountainbike, 660

MENDOZA • •

rafting, day tours, longer tours) with prices, degree of difficulty, and if necessary advice on clothing Piuquén Expediciones, Agustín Alvarez 332 @ 4253983 fax 4308029 excursions on horseback Vida y Aventura Travel, Avenida España 1074 @ 4381287/4203663 fax

Tour operators See also Tour operators in Buenos Aires City on page 76, many of whom organize tours in Mendoza Province. • Andesmar Turismo, Espejo 189 near España @ 4293894 fax 4380654 • Gravitours S.R.L., Las Heras 420 @ 4381747 fax 4254276 • Mendoza Viajes, Peatonal Sarmiento 129 @ 4380480 fax 4380605 • Turismo Sepean, San Juan 1070 @ 4204162/63/64 • TTA Tours, 9 de Julio 968 @ 4294984 fax 4295818 • Turismo Cóndor, 25 de Mayo 1537 @ 4234019 Excursions Popular resorts near the city include El Borbollón (north-east) and El Challao (north-west) with many popular nightclubs. Local buses. • City tour: Includes the ruins of the Convento de San Francisco and Parque General San Martín, Cerro de la Gloria, El Challao, and museums. Buses leave at 08:00 and return at 12:00. During the tourist season there is also an afternoon tour. Cost per person: $12.00–$15.00 • Cacheuta: A spa 42 km west on RN 7. Excellent facilities at the hot springs in a very attractive setting. Empresa Uspallata runs three one-hour services a day. Short walks in the gorge. See Cacheuta on page 635 • Los Penitentes in the Cajón del Río Mendoza is a small ski resort 170 km from Mendoza, with hotels, restaurants, ski-lifts, and a 6.5 km ski run. Day tours are organized by tour operators during the skiing season but bus companies have 2 services daily. See also Los Penitentes on page 635 • Cajón del Río Mendoza: This one-day scenic trip should not be missed. Highlights are the natural stone arch of Puente del Inca, and the

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•

661

adjacent thermal springs with the old baths hewn out of the rock, Mirador del Cerro Aconcagua (providing a full view of Aconcagua), Las Cuevas (on the Chilean border), and finally the winding road climbs to the statue of Christ which marks the border between the two countries. The trip follows the Río Mendoza and Río de las Cuevas and passes through Cacheuta, Potrerillos, Uspallata (stopping for breakfast, and visiting Puente Histórico Picheuta off the main highway), Polvaredas, Punta de Vacas. Tour buses leave Mendoza daily at 07:00 and returns at 20:00. Can be made with a tour operator (cost per person: $30.00) or cheaper by public buses. See page 635 Cañon del Atuel near San Rafael: This gorge starts from Dique El Nihuil and finishes down at Presa Valle Grande. Over a 40 km distance the road descends 550 m. Along the road you can see unusual rock formations and heavy mineralization in the canyon walls. Tour operators organize day trips, leaving Mendoza at 05:30 and returning at 20:00. The trip includes a visit to San Rafael, Río Diamante valley, up the Atuel gorge, the dams at Dique Valle Grande (with a visit to the power stations), and Dique El Nihuil. Lunch at the Motel Cañon del Atuel. Return to Mendoza on RN 40 via Cuesta de los Terneros. See also San Rafael on page 666 Las Leñas: In the skiing season tour operators organize weekend day trips. Buses usually leave at 24:00 and arrive in Las Leñas at dawn. Ski hire in town or in Las Leñas (more expensive). Buses leave Las Leñas about 17:00. See also Las Leñas on page 640. Las Leñas can also be accessed from San Rafael and Malargüe by public buses. See Buses from San Rafael on page 670 and from Malargüe on page 646 Termas Villavicencio: Altitude 1800 m. Tour operators organize half-day trips, leaving Mendoza at 08:00, visiting the Finca Histórico Del Pino (Del Pino Historic Estate, named after the first bishop of Mendoza) and

Mendoza

CUYO PROVINCES

•

•

•

programs vary from one tour operator to another. One afternoon tour includes a visit to Bodega Peñaflor, Dique Cipolletti, and Carrodilla Church, dedicated to the patron saint of vineyards, leaving 14:30; fare $5.00 • To Reserva Natural Bosque Telteca: This is a one-day 280 km ecological excursion through fairly flat country to visit a natural forest in arid country and the nearby dunes at Alto de los Limpios. The starting point in Mendoza is the intersection of Avenida Gobernador Videla with Avenida Bandera de los Andes. Follow Avenida Gobernador Videla or RN 40, 2.5 km north to the intersection with RP 24. Turn east into RP 24 which is here called Avenida Almirante Brown. This route brings you to the capital of the Lavalle departamento. All the way you pass through vineyards and orchards. At Lavalle turn east into RP 34 to Costa Araujo where the road becomes RN 142. From Costa Araujo onwards — the end of the irrigation area — the land becomes arid and eventually turns into desert. You pass the sand dunes at Alto de los Limpios. Further on is the natural forest almost like an oasis in the desert. This forest is most likely fed by underground streams coming from the high sierras. The west side of the reserva natural is bounded by marshes. RN 142 goes right through the middle of the reserve and continue to Encón in San Juan Province. By tour operator or 4WD Excursions from Luján de Cuyo • Dique El Carrizal: On the Río Tunuyán, 37 km south. Fishing and water sports. The lake provides a combined hydroelectric and irrigation scheme

the winding roads of Villavicencio. Several stops are made en route to enjoy impressive vistas. Stops for lunch at Gran Hotel Villavicencio including a visit to the thermal springs, temperature ranging from 26°C to 38°C (75°F–100°F); it is slightly radioactive. Continues up to El Balcón (a short stop) and up to the Cruz de Paramillos. Returns through the Quebrada del Toro and Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Gorge). Also visited is the Canota-Monument 16km from the springs depicts the point where San Martín divided his army before crossing the Andes into Chile. At Las Higueras 20 km are also thermal springs. 23 km past Termas Villavicencio is the Bosque Petrificado Carlos Darwin (Charles Darwin Petrified Forest) Potrerillos: During winter, tour operators organize trips to this ski resort via the Vallecito ski runs at Piedra Grande and Cordón del Plata, and Refugios San Antonio (2800 m), San Bernardo (3000 m), and La Canaleta (3200 m). Buses leave Mendoza at 09:00 and return at 20:00. During summer there are two half-day tours. For a do-it-yourself trip, see Buses above. See also Potrerillos under Cajón del Río Mendoza on page 636 Manzano Histórico: Organized half-day tour of 219 km (fare $8.00). The trip passes through Chacras de Coria (visiting a bodega and the Museo Casa de Fader), the oil drilling field Los Cerillos, Valle del Jaurua (walnut plantations), Tupungato, Valle de Uco, La Arboleda (stopping for lunch), Arroyo Grande, Las Pircas, and Manzano Histórico, and returns via Vista Flores and Tunuyán. Summer only. See also Excursions from Tunuyán on page 673 Winery tour: Tour operators organize visits to a great number of bodegas; the

Mendoza

662

MENDOZA

RIVADAVIA

Rivadavia Postal code: 5577 @ area code: (02623) Altitude: 660 m Distance from Mendoza: 60 km south-east on RN 7

R

ivadavia is located in the irrigation belt about 100 km east of the cordillera. It was founded in 1884 on the “Indian salt road”, over which salt was transported northward from the southern salinas. The climate is desert–continental, with temperatures reaching 39°C (100°F) in summer and plunging as low as 5°C (40°F) in winter. The annual rainfall is about 200 mm. The Río Tunuyán meanders slowly through the departamento after its torrential beginnings in the high sierras. Its waters are stored in the Dique El Carrizal dam where they are used extensively for irrigation, supplemented by bore water. Rivadavia is the center of a wine-producing region.

A Festivals

To San Martín

•

67

60

ANZORENA

•

D

CE BALCAR

CIA E INDEPENDEN ARISTÓBULO DEL VALL E T MORENO CONSTITUCIÓN

LAVALLE

A V. PRADO F

LEMIN

LAMADRID

LINIERS

SARMIENTO

To Mendoza

SAN MARTÍN

G

URIBURU L.FERREYRA

C Accommodation

•

VITALE

MAIPÚ

F. ARENAS

W. NUÑEZ

• •

WN DO BRO BLIGA TE. .O M R L A

A GU E J. H

RNA

NDE

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A

A NC CO

SAN ISIDRO

URUGUAY

CHACABUCO

A ESTRAD

EGLIO COM

A. ALVAREZ

•

FADER

• • •

N

62

•

n Río Tunuyá

RIVADAVIA

•

Restaurant Boulevard, corner of Sargento Cabral and Constitución Restaurant Centro San Agustín Alvarez, Lavalle 540 Restaurant Club San Mariano Moreno, San Isidro 541 Restaurant Vikingos, José Hernández 35 Pizzería Italia, San Isidro 875 Cafetería Encuentros, San Isidro 701 (corner of Anzorena) Cafetería Nuevo Tropical, San Isidro 632 Cafetería Stilo S.R.L, San Isidro 1360

n Entertainment

Key to map A C D E T

Hotel Rivadavia, Lavalle 723 @ 444152

E Eating out

M.ARANA

J.B.JUSTO

Fiesta de la Vendimia (Grape Harvest Festival): March Festival de Folklore Cuyano, a fiesta celebrating the settlement of the Cuyo Provinces: first week in December

•

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telephone Bus terminals

Disco Salon Ducal, Lavalle 740

I Post and telegraph

•

3 Accommodation 4 Eating out

663

Post office: Correo Argentino, corner of Liniers and San Martín

Rivadavia

CUYO PROVINCES •

s Excursions

Long-distance telephones: Telefónica Argentina, corner of Liniers and Constitución

•

S Buses

The bus terminal is in Lavalle near Moreno opposite the main plaza. • El Rápido SRL, Liniers @ 443122

p Sightseeing

There is a tourist recreation complex on the banks of the Río Tunuyán which includes an artificial lake, camping grounds in a shaded area, and barbecue areas. In the same complex is the Anfiteatro (Amphitheatre) where fiestas are staged, a sports center, tennis courts, a cultural center, and other facilities. • Museo Regional Histórico (Regional History Museum), Sarmiento near Ameghino. Items of local historical interest and religious memorabilia

Dique El Carrizal, an artificial lake, is a favorite weekend resort which has many clubs and restaurants around its shore. Water sports include sailing, wind-surfing, and diving. Follow RP 67 for 40 km west alongside the Río Tunuyán, passing a smaller reservoir Benegas (where there are camping grounds), through typical Mendoza countryside—olive groves, vineyards, and irrigation channels lined with willow trees. The lake is 15 km long and 3 km wide, and covers an area of 8000 ha (19 768 acres). On the eastern side the forestry and provincial park commission has created a forested recreational area with barbecue facilities, camping grounds, and boat ramps. A tourist resort is planned, with hotels, motels, restaurants, tennis courts, etc. For the fishing enthusiast there are pejerrey and trout

SAN CARLOS

San Carlos Postal code: 5569 @ area code: (02622) Altitude: 943 m Distance from Mendoza: 160 km south on RN 40

S

an Carlos began in 1770 as the Fuerte San Carlos (San Carlos Fort). It was here that General San Martín parleyed with the local Indians. In the vicinity are the thermal springs of La Salada. San Carlos is an old-style town possessing many early Spanish adobe houses. This little town is off the main tourist circuit and its economy centers around horticulture and silviculture. This is a quiet place where the past is still present looking at the old-style and picturesque adobe houses, some of which go back to the early 1800s. The families live in a century-old rhythm: planting and harvesting on small acreages tomatoes and other vegetables.

Tourist activities include horse-riding, and mountain climbers can scale Tierras Blancas. The access to this climbing area is on private property. There is a refugio; further information can be obtained from Centro de Escalada en Tierras Blancas in Mendoza @ (0261) San Carlos

4244292. The villagers are known to play a local game called “taba” either on the plaza or in somebody’s backyard — tossing bones over a distance of six metres. San Carlos is the gateway to the spectacular mountainous border area in particular the upper Río 664

MENDOZA E Eating out

Diamante which has its source on Volcán Maipo. This mountain is 5323 m high.

Most establishments catering for tourists are in Eugenio Bustos and La Consulta.

S Buses

A Festivals •

•

Fiesta de la Tradición

B Tourist information •

•

Oficina Municipal de Turismo, @ 451002 fax 451137

s Excursions

C Accommodation ***

• •

T.A.C. runs regular daily bus services to Mendoza ($20.00; 2 hrs) and San Rafael Santiago Tours de S. Lucero, Barrio Cerro del Plata 33 @ 470335

•

Hotel Posta de San Carlos, RN 40 KM 104 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 451212 fax 451211 Cabañas Los Alamos, Capiz Abajo @ 422735 $G 2 Cabañas Villa Rosengarten, Martínez 153 @ 451117 $F 6; also camping facilities

• •

Ruins of the Fuerte San Carlos (San Carlos Fort): 13 km Baños de Capiz: 12 km north; follow the unpaved road on the right bank of the river Manzano Histórico (Historic Apple Tree): Scenic drive with a 5 km side trip to Valle de Uco dam. See also Excursions from Tunuyán on page 673

SAN MARTÍN

San Martín Population: 106 000 Postal code: 5570 @ area code: (02623) Distance from Mendoza: 43 km east on RN 7

S

an Martín was founded in 1816. The original town plan was drawn up by General San Martín. RN 7 runs right through the centre of the town. It is the capital of the San Martín departamento and the center of a fruit and wine producing region.

B Tourist information

• • •

C Accommodation

• • •

•

Oficina Municipal de Turismo, Alem near 25 de Mayo @ 420203 fax 420043

Hotel San Pedro, Boulogne sur Mer 1050 AEFGJLPUV @ 420347 fax $G 2 * Hotel Libertador, Boulogne sur Mer 256 AELPV @ 420005/422633 B Hospedaje Santa Rosa, Alem 357 L @ 421470 • Residencial Primavera, Espejo Oeste 8 @ 422605 **

•

n Entertainment

•

E Eating out • •

Restaurant Bonanza, Lima 314 Restaurant Gauna, 9 de Julio 676 Restaurant Pueblo Bar, 9 de Julio 338. Bar Pizzería Mauro, 25 de Mayo 134 Pizzería Mayo, 25 de Mayo 531 Cafetería Mozart Bar, Boulogne sur Mer 52 Cafetería Stroke, 9 de Julio 142 New Line Disco Pub, 25 de Mayo 286 Paseo

I Post and telegraph

•

Restaurant American, Boulogne sur Mer 82 Restaurant Bar del Este, L N Alem 447

665

Post office: Correo Argentino, 25 de Mayo 389

San Martín

CUYO PROVINCES •

Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, Alem 203

S Buses •

Expreso Jocoli, Terminal San Martín local 6 @ 427957; to Mendoza and San Luis.

•

p Sightseeing •

At one stage this was the home of General San Martín, and for a time the headquarters of the Liberation Army prior to the crossing to Chile. Open Tues–Sun10:00–12:00 and 15:30– 19:00 Chacra de los Barriales: Local archeological finds

Museo Histórico Bóvedas de San Martín, Priovano near Godoy Cruz.

SAN RAFAEL

San Rafael Population: 170 000 Postal code: 5600 @ area code: (02627) Altitude: 688 m Distance from Mendoza: 232 km south on RN 40 and then RN 143

S

an Rafael is situated on the Río Diamante in an otherwise arid region. Only irrigation makes large-scale fruit-growing possible in the valley. The modern town is well laid out with good facilities, and provides a good base for excursions to Dique El Nihuil and Lago Valle Grande, which form part of the Río Atuel hydroelectric scheme. Fuerte San Rafael (San Rafael Fort) was founded in 1805 in what is now the district of Villa 25 de Mayo. The town was the capital of the departamento until 1903.

Key to map A C D E G H I P $ T

Iglesia Municipalidad Correo Argentino Telefónica Argentina Mercado Municipal Hospital Dirección de Turismo A.C.A. Banco de la Nación Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 2 3 6 9 11 12

Hotel Regine Hotel Viñas Residencial San Diego Hotel España II Hotel Millalen Hotel Tonín Hotel Dali

San Rafael

Petroleum has been found in the vicinity, and oil prospecting crews still operate in the flat lands to the east.

13 Hotel San Rafael, 14 Residencial La Casa del Maestro 15 Residencial Rex 16 Residencial El Aguila 19 Hotel Kalton 20 Residencial La Esperanza 22 Hotel Alas 24 Residencial Jardín 26 Residencial Cerro Nevado 29 Residencial El Turista

4 Eating out 4 7 10 17 18

Pizzería Ouviña Restaurant Las Vegas Pizzería Bony’s Pizzería Angélica Restaurant La Vieja Posada

666

21 Club Español 31 Restaurant El Nuevo Cortijo

5 Entertainment 8

Disco La Quinta

7 Tour operators and car rental 27 Empresa Buttini

0 Services 5

23 25 28 30

Mitre Rail way station (defunct) Mundial Cambio Ancina Fotos Laverap Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Cultura

MENDOZA To General Alvear

SAN RAFAEL

143

ESPAÑA

P. A . DE SARMIENTO

To Monte Coman and San Luis

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14 PELLEGRINI 18 19

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CASTELLI

N

A

8 AVE. SAN MARTÍN 15 13

DAY

11 12

BELGRANO

ALSINA

SAN LUIS

AVE. RIVADAVIA

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6 7

B. IRIGOYEN

D

INDEPENDENCIA

AL

ALEM

J.A . MAZA

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R NE

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BARCALA

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1

156

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To Mendoza

667

San Rafael

CUYO PROVINCES C Accommodation in San Rafael Apart hotel

• Los Rayunos, Ave. Libertador 817

Hotels *** ** ** ** * * * * * *

San Rafael, Day 30 Fax 430127 España II, San Martín 296 Fax 430038 Kalton, H. Yrigoyen 120 Millalen, Ortíz de Rosas 198 Fax 432608 Alas, Salas 51 Dali, Belgrano 44 Regine, Independencia 623 Tonín, San Martín 327 Turis, Alvarez Condarco 340 Viñas, Mitre 441

Residenciales A A A A A A A B

Cerro Nevado, H Yrigoyen 376 El Aguila, Entre Ríos 88 El Turista, Chile 643 Jardín, H Yrigoyen 283 La Casa del Maestro, Pellegrini 40 La Esperanza, Avellaneda 263 Rex, H Yrigoyen 56 San Diego, Las Heras 129

@

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430128

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421192 430047 fax

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Accommodation in Cañon del Atuel Hotels **

Resort Valle Grande, RN 173 KM 35 Fax 423541

Cabañas

• Cañon del Atuel, RN 173 KM 65 • Valle Grande, RN 173 KM 35

Accommodation in El Nihuil Cabañas • Club de Pescadores • Club Náutico El Nihuil

Hosterías *

Topanga Cañon,

Accommodation in El Sosneado *

Hostería El Sosneado, RN 144 KM 142

•

A Festivals •

Fiesta de la Vendimia (Grape Harvest Festival)

D Camping

B Tourist information •

•

Dirección de Turismo, Suárez 145 (terminal complex) @ 424217. Closed Saturday and Sunday afternoons

San Rafael

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Cultura, Deportes y Museo, H Yrigoyen 745 @ 424217

668

El Parador, Isla Río Diamante, 6.5 km from town center AFR

MENDOZA Camping on RN 173 • Camping Rayuela, KM 25 @ (02627) 421551 • Camping Viña de Dios, KM 25 @ (02627) 428546

Services and Facilities in El Nihuil • Hire of horses and, bicycles and “Motos”: Club de Pescadores San Rafael

Camping in Valle Grande • Carmen RP 173 • Club de Pescadores San Rafael, Maza 123

The half-hour taxi trip to the airport costs $6.00. • Austral has 5 weekly services to Buenos Aires ($172.00; 21 4 hrs) via San Luis 1 2 hr)

R Air services

E Eating out • • • • • • • •

Restaurant Club Español, Salas 173. Spanish cuisine Restaurant El Nuevo Cortijo, H Yrigoyen 999. Grill Restaurant La Vieja Posada, Pellegrini 15 Restaurant Las Vegas, San Martín 226. Grill Restaurant Tenis Club, Sobremonte 737 Pizzería Angélica, Avenida Libertador 350 Pizzería Bony’s, San Martín 455 Pizzería Ouviña, Olascoaga 177

U Motoring

•

a Sport in San Rafael

•

•

• Disco Magic Night, A. Calle • Disco La Quinta, Olascoaga 26 • Disco Jaque, Balloffet 1903 Entertainment in El Nihuil • Le Pont Discoteque

I Post and telegraph •

Post office: Correo Argentino, San Lorenzo near Barcalá Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, San Lorenzo 131

•

Tours operators Tours can be organized for six participants or more. See also to Tour operators in Buenos Aires City on page 76. • Empresa Buttini, Corrientes 494 @ 421413 Excursions • Cuesta de los Terneros: 33 km. This is a steep and winding section of RN 144 going west. Not far from the beginning of the ascent a trail leads northward to Arroyos de la Pintada, which has good camping spots in scenic surroundings. This area has many archeological sites with rock paintings. Further up are panoramic views over the city

Banco de la Nación, H. Yrigoyen 113 @ 430032 Mundial Cambio, Galería Gijón, S. Salas 25 @ 426138

M Services and facilities • • •

Museo de Ciencia Naturales e Historia (Natural Science and History Museum), Ballofet 5500. The museum has an extensive collection of minerals, fossils, archeology, anthropology and paleontology Parque Hipólito Yrigoyen, corner of RN 143 and Marqués de Sobremonte, 15 blocks from the town center. Contains a sports centre and an amphitheatre with a seating capacity of 10 000 spectators where plays are staged. The annual grape festival takes place here

s Excursions

L Financial •

Golf: El Club de Golf San Rafael, Los Sauces 2425 @ (02627) 430118

p Sightseeing

•

n Entertainment

•

Service station: A.C.A., corner of H Yrigoyen and 9 de Julio

Laundromat: Lavandería Laverap, Moreno 79 Hire of bicycles and camping equipment: BICOL S.R.L., Avenida Ballofet 949 @ 426047 Photography: Ancina Fotos, Godoy Cruz 100

669

San Rafael

CUYO PROVINCES S Buses from San Rafael

The bus terminal is in Coronel Suárez 151 @ (02627) 424435. Companies using bus terminal • Alto Valle ° Neuquén • Andesmar ° Esquel (201 2 hrs) via Neuquén, Piedra del Águila (13 hrs), Bariloche, and El Bolsón (18 hrs); 1 daily ° Mar del Plata • Empresa del Sur y Media Agua ° San Juan via Mendoza; 1 daily • Expreso Uspallata @ 423169 ° Buenos Aires via San Luis and Río Cuarto; 1 daily ° Las Leñas; weekend services • La Estrella SRL, ° General Alvear (11 2 hrs) viaVilla Atuel (3 4 hour) and Real del Padre ; 1 daily ° Bowen via General Alvear (11 2 hrs); 1 daily ° Buenos Aires ($48.00; 13 hrs) via San Luis • T.A.C. @ 422209 ° General Alvear; frequent services daily ° Malargüe ($7.25; 31 2 hrs); 7 daily ° Valle de Las Leñas (51 4 hrs) via Los Molles ($7.70; 23 4 hrs); 4 weekly ° Mendoza ($9.20); 8–10 daily ° Buenos Aires via San Luis; 1 daily ° Córdoba via San Luis; 1 daily Companies with own terminal • Transporte Iselín, Ing. Balloffet 2050 @ 425441 fax ° Valle Grande ($1.65; 1 hour) and Dique El Nihuil ($3.30); 3 daily • El Rápido SRL, Almafuerte 105 @ 430207 • Autotransporte San Rafael, Urquiza 250 @ 435008 • Pellegrini Transporte de Pasajeros, 25 de Mayo 430 @ 424990 • Pérez Carlos, Chile 1240 @ 422176 • Rodríguez César, Ave. M. Moreno 2100 @ 421851 Long-distances services • • • • • • •

•

•

Destination Fare Bardas Blancas $10.00 Bariloche $56.00 Barrancas $18.70 Buenos Aires $50.00 Comodoro Rivadavia $88.00 Córdoba $33.00 Neuquén $29.70

Duration 16 hrs 13 hrs

11 hrs

Ternero is the turn-off south to El Nihuil dam and lake. The dam forms an artificial lake of nearly 10 000 ha (24 720 acres), and supplies a string of power stations in the gorge of the Cañon del Atuel. The power generated is used by an iron and steel plant nearby. The lake is a favorite weekend retreat, and many clubs line its

Horseback expedition to Cerro Campanario, 4049 m on the Chilean border with visits to Caverna de las Brujas, including shooting the rapids on the Río Atuel; 8 days approx. $650.00 Dique El Nihuil (El Nihuil Dam) (75km) and Lago Valle Grande: 14 km further on from the Cuesta del

San Rafael

670

MENDOZA

•

shore. There is good fishing (pejerrey and trout), as well as sailing and water-skiing, and a hotel with a restaurant, Hotel El Nihuil. From Lago El Nihuil there is an interesting 21 km walk down through the gorge of Cañon del Atuel. On the way down you pass power stations Nihuil I, II, and III, Lagos Aisol, and Tierras Blancas. In the valley, on the left-hand side between power station II and III, is Motel Cañon del Atuel (with bungalows or cabins, a restaurant, and a swimming pool). At Valle Grande lake is the Club Náutico Valle Grande with a restaurant and boat hire. This is a good spot for fishing, wind surfing, and diving. From Lago Valle Grande onwards the road is sealed, and regular buses return to the city. Tour operators run organized day tours ($12.50) which include the Fería Artesanal or artists market, Dique Valle Grande, a visit to the power stations, and Dique El Nihuil, leaving San Rafael at 10:30 and returning at 19:00. T.A.C. has 3 daily buses from El Nihuil to and from San Rafael Villa 25 de Mayo and the Río Diamante valley: Founded in 1805 as Fuerte San Rafael (San Rafael Fort), Villa 25 de Mayo was the first settlement in the district. Nowadays it is a quiet suburb which has retained some of the charm of the past century, with its adobe houses and tree-lined streets. Nearby is one of the main dams on the Río Diamante which distributes the water for irrigation. Near Cerro Bola are thermal springs, and the biggest uranium mine in Argentina. There are regular bus services to and from the city. Further up the valley in a narrow gorge is the Los Reyunos hydro-electric scheme. The dam forms a lake of 800 ha (1977 acres), with fishing and water sports, but no other facilities. The biggest dam in the Río Diamante valley is Dique Agua del Toro with a 128 m concrete wall producing a lake of over 1000 ha (2471 acres). Follow the partially sealed road westwards from Villa 25 de Mayo to the intersection with RN 40 and turn south for 7 km. Tour operators organize day trips

•

•

•

671

($12.50) including a visit to Villa 25 de Mayo, Dique El Tigre, Los Reyunos private club, and a three-hour boat trip on the lake. The tour bus leaves San Rafael at 10:30 and returns at 19:00; lunch is included Las Leñas and Valle Hermoso: During the summer months tour operators organize day trips for $25.00. The tour includes a visit to El Sosneado, Laguna de la Niña Encantada, Pozo de las Ánimas, Los Molles, Las Leñas, and Valle Hermoso. The return trip from Valle Hermoso includes a short visit to the Las Leñas complex (hotels, bars, and cafés). Lunch at La Niña Encantada. The bus leaves San Rafael at 08:30 and returns at 21:30. During winter, day skiing trips are available. For budgetminded travelers regular tour buses are available. See also Las Leñas on page 640 El Sosneado and the upper Río Atuel valley: Take the sealed roads of the RN 144 and then RN 40 to El Sosneado; go through semi-desert country towards El Sosneado. In the far distance the snow-capped peaks of the Andes are clearly visible. Volcán Overo at 4619 m is located at the source of the Río Atuel some 50 km north-west of Hotel Termas El Sosneado. From El Sosneado RP 220 continues up the Río Atuel valley to the thermal springs at Termas El Sosneado. There are no facilities apart from the pool and springs, but accommodation and food are available at the Estancia El Sosneado near the head of the valley. This is an unspoilt area of outstanding scenic beauty with views of Cerro Sosneado (5189 m) and the main range of the Andean chain. Transport services are irregular, but you may get a lift with a truck or car going to the mines. This is an area for the outdoor enthusiast and mountaineer Caverna de las Brujas (Witches’ Cave): Tour operators organize day trips for $25.00, which include a visit to Malargüe. During a three-hour guided tour in the caves you descend to 170 m to see stalactites and

San Rafael

CUYO PROVINCES stalagmites. The bus leaves San Rafael at 10:00 and returns at 20:00

TUNUYÁN

Tunuyán Population: 40 000 Postal code: 5560 @ area code: (02622) Altitude: 873 m Distance from Mendoza: 82 km south on RN 40

T

unuyán is located on the Río Tunuyán at the foot of the Andes, which here rise up in a series of chains (Cordón del Portillo and Cordón del Marmolejo) to well above 6000 m at the Chilean border. Tunuyán was founded in 1880 when the Territorio del Uco was split into Tunuyán and Tupungato. The name is derived from an Araucanian word meaning “trembling earth”— Cerro Bravard (5913 m) and Cerro San Juan (6111 m) are extinct volcanoes. At the time of the Spanish invasion there was a large indigenous settlement on the shores of the Río Tunuyán. Nowadays the river is dammed in several places and its waters used to irrigate some 100 000 ha (40 469 acres). Temperatures in the mountains can fall to –17°C (0°F). The usual minimum city temperature in winter is 13°C (58°F) and in summer it can climb to 40°C (105°F). Since 1920 apple trees have been planted, to create an important fruit juice industry in the region. Softwood plantations supply wood for the fruit boxes. Besides apple plantations large areas are planted with apricots, plums, cherries, and pears. A potential ski area is located in the Río Manantiales valley, some 67 km west of Tunuyán. It is claimed that you can ski here for nine months of the year. The skiable area is 340 ha

Tunuyán

(840 acres) or 1100 ha (2718 acres) if the Río Guanaquitas valley is included), with 45 km of ski runs from 2 km to 5 km in length and 2800 m to 3100 m in altitude. For the time being check out the Club Andino in Tunuyán, which has an artificial snow piste. A hydroelectric scheme, “Los Blancos”, is proposed on the Río Los Blancos and Río Los Tordillos in the upper Tunuyán valley.

A Festivals

•

Fiesta de la Vendimia (Grape Harvest Festival) and song festival, held concurrently

B Tourist information

• • •

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Centro Cívico, corner of República de Siria near Alem @ 424718 Oficina de Información Turística, San Martín near Pellegrini @ 422195 fax Club Andino Tunuyán, H. Yrigoyen near Dalmao @ (02622) 422538. Owns Refugio Lemos in the mountains

D Camping

•

Manzano Histórico: A.C.A. camping ground. See Excursions below

E Eating out

•

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Restaurant Los Compadres, RN 40 KM 35. Parilla

MENDOZA C Accommodation in Tunuyán ***

A A A B

Hotel Tunuyán, San Martín 1244 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 422029 Residencial Mestre, San Martín 1386 LP Residencial Hostal del Sol, San Martín 651 near Marinelli LP Residencial Tunuyán, J.A. Roca 949 LP Residencial San Luis, J.A. Roca 943 L

@ @

423176/79 422555

$E

2

@

424396

@

423042

@

(02622 )492004 $E

1

Accommodation in Valle de Uco ***

• • • • • • •

Hotel y Resort Samay Huasi, RP 92 KM 46 E- mail: [email protected] ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY

n Entertainment

Restaurant Sociedad Española, San Martín 973 Pizzería Ilo, corner of San Martín and L de La Torre Cafetería Carioca, San Martín and Rawson Cafetería El Esquí, San Martín 1186 Cafetería La Cabaña, San Martín 1156 Cafetería Mozart, San Martín 1396 Cafetería San Martín, San Martín 1057

• •

Night Club Malake, RN 92, Vista Flores, 15 km west of Tunuyán Night Club Tijuana, Juan de Dios Videla, Vista Flores

I Post and telegraph

• •

Post office: Correo Argentino, H. Yrigoyen 725 Telephone: Pellegrini 168

S Buses

The bus terminal is at Alem block 1100 near Sarmiento. • Empresa ECLA runs several buses daily to Mendoza • Transportes General B. Mitre has frequent buses to Tupungato • Expreso Uspallata, local 9 @ 424425

To Mendoza LAS HERAS

TUNUYÁN

40 9 DE JULIO

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

FRENCH

LISANDRO DE LA TORRE

ROCA

PELLEGRINI CHILE

YAPEYÚ

D

RIVADAVIA SARMIENTO

Service stations • Y.P.F., San Martín 1137

a Sport

COLÓN

•

Horse trekking: Cabalgata Andina, San Martín 1080. Trekking in the pre-cordillera

s Excursions

M. GÜ EM ES

ETCHEVERRÍA

BRAN

L .N. ALEM

E. VILLANUEVA 25 DE MAYO

H. YRIGOYEN

N

U Motoring

ALMTE. BROWN

LAVALLE URUGUAY

•

MORENO REPÚBLICA LÍBANO

MITRE PUEYRREDÓN

BELGRANO REPÚBLICA DE SIRIA 40 A . DEL VALLE A . DALMAU

To San Rafael and Las Leñas

673

Manzano Histórico (Historic Apple Tree): Located 40 km westwards on RP 92, this is an historic site where General de San Martín camped on his way over the Andes to Chile. A monument called Retorno a la Patria is erected here. The site also serves to celebrate various festivals such as the grape harvest and song festival. RP 92 from Tunuyán follows the Río Carocas. The closest camping spots along the river are in Colonia Las

Tunuyán

CUYO PROVINCES Rosas, after passing La Botella de Armani. Some 15 km from the town center is the district of Vista Flores. Nineteen kilometers from town is another camping spot. Los Higuerales, 25 km from Tunuyán, is aptly named because of the fig trees (higueras) in the area. Further on on the left is the monument to “La India Muerta”, commemorating an Araucanian legend. The weekend resort of Arroyo Grande is 35 km from town. Nearby is the San Antonio chapel. At the Manzano Histórico is an A.C.A. camping spot with toilets and hot water. You may visit the nearby trout hatchery. Transportes ECLA and T.A.C. run bus services in this area. If you have your own transport you can

•

return via Los Arboles to either Tunuyán or Tupungato High Andes hike: From Manzano Histórico, take the trail through the Quebrada del Arroyo Grande into the high Andes. This is hiking and climbing area par excellence. There are several refugios (mountain huts or chalets) here run by the Club Andino, such as Refugio Capitán Lemos and Refugio Doctor Scaravelli. Pass the j u n c t i o n o f R í o L l a r e t a s, R í o Manantiales, and Río Cuanaquitas and you are in the Quebrada de las Llaretas, over 4000 m above sea level. At Portillo Argentino is an incomplete water tunnel known as the Río Palomares, which was to have linked the valley of the Arroyo Grande with the upper Río Tunuyán valley

TUPUNGATO

Tupungato Population: 11 000 Postal code: 5561 @ area code: (02622) Distance from Mendoza: 78 km south-west on RP 86

L

ocated in the Río Uco valley, and surrounded by snowcapped peaks to the west with views of Cerro Tupungato (6800 m), Tupungato is a good base for exploring the countryside and for hikes.

B Tourist information •

•

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Belgrano 348 @ 488097/280 fax 488595

•

C Accommodation

I Post and telegraph

•

Hotel Turismo Tupungato, Belgrano 1060 AEFGJLPUV @ 488007 • Hotel Italia, Belgrano 574 @ 488176 B Residencial Don Rómulo Hostería, Brown 1200 L near the bus terminal @ 488029 EF

**

•

Camping Municipal, El Peral @ 488097 fax 488595

• •

Restaurant Hotel Turismo Tupungato, Belgrano 1066 Restaurant Italia, Belgrano 574 Restaurant Kaskote, Alberdi 42

Tupungato

Disco Cuore, M. Argentina near Carril Urquiza

S Buses

•

E Eating out •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Alte. Brown near Lemos Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, Belgrano 1201

n Entertainment

•

D Camping •

Restaurant Valle de Tupungato, Belgrano 542 Cafetería Pleno Centro, Belgrano 547

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Transport General B Mitre ° Mendoza ($3.30); 7 daily. First bus leaves at 05:30, and the last at 19:30

MENDOZA U Motoring •

s Excursions

•

A.C.A. service station, Belgrano 808 near General Mosconi

Manzano Histórico, 40 km on an unsealed road: See Excursions from Tunuyán on page 673

USPALLATA

Uspallata Population: 3200 Postal code: 5545 @ area code: (02624) Altitude: 1900 m Distance from Mendoza: 95 km north-west on RN 7

U

spallata is the last sizeable town before the Chilean border. During the War of Independence Fray Luis Beltrán forged weapons here for San Martín’s army before crossing the Andes.

B Tourist information •

•

•

Oficina Municipal de Turismo Uspallata, Centro Comercial @ 420009 Señor Ricardo Elias Jatib, owner of Restaurant Don Elias, is also a mine of information on the district

L Money exchange

• •

Centro Turístico Uspallata, RN 7 KM 104 AFRT

E Eating out • • •

Restaurant Casa de Don Elias, Cerro Barrauca, where the bus stops Restaurant San Cayetano, RN 7. Parrilla Pizzería El Fogón, corner of Las Heras and Tupungato

•

I Telephone and telegraph •

Banco de Mendoza @ 420001

S Buses

D Camping •

Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, Las Heras

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Uspallata

C Accommodation in Uspallata

Expreso Uspallata stops at Restaurant Don Elias. ° Las Cuevas (2 1 2 hrs) via Los Penitentes ($3.70) and Puente del Inca ($4.40); 2–3 daily ° Mendoza; 3 daily T.A.C. ° San Juan ($23.10) via Barreal and Callingasta; 1 weekly. This is a scenic trip which may be interrupted in Barreal; from here daily buses run to San Juan El Triunfo ° San Juan via Barreal and Calingasta; 1 weekly

Hotel Valle Andino, RN 7 KM 100 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Hotel Gran Hotel Uspallata, RN 7 west of the town center AEFGJLPSUV * Hostería Los Condores, Las Heras near RN 7 Fax 420065 AEFLPV A Residencial Viena, Las Heras 240 LP • Refugio La Montaña, RN 7 • Cabañas El Pastizal, RN 7 KM 100; Reservations in Mendoza: Alvarez Condarco 757

*** **

675

@ @

(02624) 420033 $E/F 2 420003 $H 1

@ @ @

420002 420046 (02624) 420012

@

(0261) 4221915/4282250

Uspallata

CUYO PROVINCES •

U Motoring

It is possible to travel to Mendoza via Termas de Villavicencio.

•

s Excursions •

Puente Histórico Picheuta: A bridge constructed by General San Martín to move his troops over the Andes

Uspallata

676

Ruins of Las Bóvedas: A ruined city built by the Huarpe Indians under the Jesuits, and also an Inca tambería Barreal and San Juan in San Juan Province: See Buses above

SAN JUAN SAN C San UYO Juan JUAN PROVINCES

Plate 13 679 680 682 683 684 685 686 687 688 691

S

Map of San Juan Province Angualasto Sqrst Barreal BCEJKMSbepqst Calingasta ABEIUWest Pismanta CSUWsu Rodeo CDESstu San Agustín de Valle Fértil Map BCDEJKSUWYaes San José de Jáchal BCEJKSUWesu San Juan BCDEnJKLMRSUTVWXYafio Map pqrstu

an Juan covers an area of 96 000 square km (37 056 square miles) and has a population of approximately 530 000. It shares borders with La Rioja Province in the north and east, San Luis Province in the east, and Mendoza in the south, and the spine of the Andes forms the border with Chile.

The centers of traditional artesanías (weaving, potting, and so on) are in the Andean region—such as San José de Jáchal, Iglesia, and San Agustín de Valle Fértil in the east. The provincial capital is San J u a n, l o c a t e d s o m e 1 1 3 0 k m north-west of Buenos Aires. San Juan is a dry province and has to optimize use of its water resources. The rainfall decreases the further east one goes. Most of the rivers are dammed, the biggest water storage system being on the Río San Juan not far from the capital

itself. Here the water sports facilities of Gran Presa de Embalse Quebrada de Ullum attract thousands of tourists. This hydroelectric scheme produces 171 million Kwh annually. Another reservoir with tourist facilities is Dique Los Cauquenes. In the Río Jáchal valley the hydroelectric scheme of Presa Embalse y Central Hidroelectrica Cuesta del Viento is being constructed. The reservoir will cover an area of 3000 ha (7410 acres). Most of the industry is centered in greater San Juan, which includes

677

San Juan

CUYO PROVINCES Albardón in the north, Villa Santa Rosa in the east, Villa Media Agua in the south, and Rivadavia in the west. Caucete, only forty-five minutes east by public transport, is the second largest town in San Juan Province with 21 000 inhabitants. The areas of interest to the tourist include the capital city, the Río de los Patos valley, Valle Fértil department with the Parque Provincial Ischigualasto, and the thermal springs at Pismanta, Iglesia, and San José de Jáchal. There are several archeological sites in the province, such as the pre-Columbian village near Angualasto 20 km north of Rodeo. San Juan is rich in minerals. Copper is found on the Río de Pachón near the Chilean border. A mountainous province, San Juan is a region for mountaineering. Its scenic beauty is outstanding, and many mountain valleys still await the arrival of the first tourist. Only about a tenth of the total area is arable, and this only because of irrigation. The water descending down from the high sierras is collected in numerous dams to be used for irrigation and electricity production. The irrigated area is used mainly for viticulture; San Juan produces some of the best wine grapes and is one of the biggest wine-producing provinces in Argentina.

Reserva Natural Estricta El Leoncito; see page 681. The large Reserva Nacional San Guillermo located 335 km north of San Juan has been fairly recently established and you need a special permission to visit; for a description of the park see page 680, and for information on access see Tourist information in San Juan on page 692

Thermal springs The province has innumerable thermal springs, such as Termas de Agua Hedionda (“Stinking Water”), Termas de Agua Negra, Pismanta, Termas de Talacasto, and Baños La Laja, to name just a few of the more accessible ones. Only Termas de Pismanta has adequate facilities.

International mountain passes Paso del Agua Negra is located at 4765 m on RN 150 and connects San Juan Province with La Serena in Chile. The turnoff is at Las Flores a few kilometers before Termas de Pismanta. Of the 94 km to the border only 64 km are asphalted. The pass is open from December to March; passport control and border checkpoint is at Campamento Arrequintín 38 km west of Las Flores near the Bustos de Güemes. From the border to La Serena it is a further 251 km. Chilean passport control is at Juntas 92 km west of the border. This is a spectacular trip; however there are few direct tourist buses between San Juan and La Serena. See also the companion volume Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island “Región IV de Coquimbo”.

Provincial parks The province has several provincial parks. The best known is Parque Provincial Ischigualasto 320 km north-east of San Juan; see page 687. Only 16 km west of San Juan near the town of Zonda is Parque Provincial Federico Cantoni; see page 696. Thirty km south of Barreal is San Juan

678

SAN JUAN Fishing in San Juan

carp. Fishing in the lakes is permitted all year round. Gran Presa de Embalse Quebrada de Ullum is the province’s biggest tourist attraction and much frequented by the towns people. Further fishing grounds are located near San Agustín de Valle Fértil, some 247 km north-east from the provincial capital. The facilities are sufficiently good to make the stay pleasant. Here fishing is mostly for giant bagre, pejerrey, and Mojarra plateada. Fishing is forbidden from September to November and during March and April. Fishing licenses are obtainable from the Oficinas de Fiscalización, Parque de Mayo, San Juan; alternatively, park inspectors issue day permits. Note that these permits or licenses are issued for “sectors” of rivers only, that is, for defined lengths, usually between two branches or tributaries.

The rivers and many artificial lakes provide an opportunity to indulge in water sports and fishing. The two major fishing rivers are the upper reaches of the Río San Juan (Río de los Patos and Río Castaño), providing good catches of salmon and rainbow trout. From San Juan take RP 12, 180 km sealed road, to Calingasta. From there take either the northern road to the township of Castaño or the southern road to the township of Barreal. In the Río Castaño the fishing season runs from November 15 to April 15. In the many lakes, such as the Gran Presa de Embalse Quebrada de Ullum — only 15 km west of San Juan — and Dique Los Cauquenes, lower Río San Juan, and rivers in the Valle Fértil, the main varieties fished are pejerrey, bagre, perch, and

ANGUALASTO

Angualasto Postal code: 5467 Distance from San Juan: 238 km north on RN 40, RP 436, and RP 430

A

ngualasto is located 21 km north of Rodeo in the Río Jáchal valley. It is a small Andean village surrounded by many vineyards. Of interest are the ancient Capilla de Nuestra Señora de Andacollo and the Museo Arqueológico Luis Benedetti with archeological objects found in the area. Cerro Mirador has the monument to Cacique Pismanta which is also known as Monumento al Indio. From the top of the hill there are splendid views over the town and the Río Jáchal valley.

s Excursions

There are no tourist facilities in Angualasto. The nearest basic accommodation is in Rodeo and San José de Jáchal; good accommodation and a restaurant are in Termas de Pismanta. Buses Iglesias runs services from San Juan to Angualasto.

•

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The pre-Hispanic ruins Tamberías de Angualasto are nearby and are another tourist attraction of the area. It has been identified as an Inca site but most likely was already an important settlement before the arrival of the Incas. The mud walls are dispersed over an area of four square kilometres. Angualasto

CUYO PROVINCES

•

recovered.This is a mountain hiker’s paradise although not without its dangers: many peaks over 5000 m are covered with snow all year round; the mountain streams surging from the lofty heights are crystal-clear and trout fishing is possible. There are also tarns and lagunas with a teeming birdlife such as piuquenes, a type of bustard, and flamingos rosados can be seen near Maciso de El Potro. There are also altiplano deserts. Before setting out on this trip contact Dirección de Recursos Naturales Renovables in San Juan to obtain a permit to visit this area. Access is on the dirt road past Angualasto and only by means of guardaparque vehicles. There is a guardaparque refuge at Agua del Godo

There are underground storage facilities and enclosures for llamas. While adults were buried in a cemetery outside the village children were buried near the parental house Angualasto is the starting point for a visit to Reserva Nacional San G u i l l e r m o. T h i s 8 6 0 0 0 0 h a (2 125 100 acre) reserve was established to protect the altiplano fauna in particular guanacos and vicuñas. It is estimated that in this wildlife reserve there are approximately 6000 guanacos and 4500 vicuñas or 60 per cent of Argentin’s total vicuña population. This reserve also contains numerous Inca sanctuaries, mostly on top of mountains over 6000 m. From the area many archeological artefacts — even a mummy — have been

BARREAL

Barreal Population: 2000 Postal code: 5405 @ area code: (02648) Altitude: 1650 m Distance from San Juan: 180 km west on RP 12 and RP 412

B

arreal is situated 38 km south of Calingasta in the Pampa Negra on the Río de los Patos, also known as the Valle de Calingasta. A concerted effort is being made by the municipality to upgrade its tourist facilities. A case in point are the fine cabins in the municipal camping grounds. The history of Barreal goes back to pre-Hispanic days, when the Inca trail from Cuzco in Peru passed through this valley to Chile over the Uspallata pass. Vestiges of this trail are still visible. Barreal is a good base for excursions up the Valle de Calingasta. Snowcapped Cerro Mercedario (6770 m) is visible from the village. Unlike most villages and towns, Barreal is a long stretched-out village with no real center. Most shops and the town hall are located in the northern end of town, and the church is 2 km further south.

Barreal

Also included here is the upper Calingasta valley with a refuge at Las Hornillas.

B Tourist information

• •

Municipalidad, Las Heras near Presidente Roca Don Jorge of the Hotel Jorge almost opposite Hotel Barreal is also a fount of information on the area

E Eating out

• • •

680

Cantina del Aero Club, H. Yrigoyen near C. Gualino Comedor Doriana, Florida near H. Yrigoyen Restaurant La Maison Mamma Rosa, Presidente Roca near Las Heras

SAN JUAN C Accommodation in Barreal Hotels

EFS @ 441114 $F 2 • Barreal, San Martín • Posada San Eduardo, Avenida San Martín near Belgrano. Converted hacienda with huge rooms heated by open fireplace FS @ 441046 $F 2

Residenciales

• Hotel Jorge. Also runs a small shop

@

441048

@ @

441241 441004

@

441016

Cabañas

• Camping Municipal, Avenida Belgrano. 10 cabins ACD • Doña Pipa, M. Moreno

$F $F

6 6

Accommodation in Las Hornillas

• Refugio Las Hornillas $J 1 in bunks. For information: San Juan @ (0264) 4231842/4234413

Departamentos

• El Cordillerano, Presidente Roca

•

Pizzería Emanuel, Presidente Roca near Las Heras

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Presidente Roca near Las Heras Telephone: Cabins in Avenida San Martín in front of Hotel Barreal; also at Presidente Roca near San Martín

M Services and facilities •

Horse-riding: Tato, RP 412 road to Finca Ossa

S Buses

There is no bus terminal. The T.A.C. ticket office is in the reception area of the Hotel Barreal. Book early on Friday. • San Juan ( 41 2 hours); 1–2 daily; T.A.C. • Uspallata (3 hrs); 1 weekly ; T.A.C., El Triunfo

•

p Sightseeing •

Private museum of Señora Iñez Herrera, a short distance up from the plaza. All the pre-Columbian artefacts on display have been unearthed in the area while plowing the fields

s Excursions •

Reserva Natural Estricta El Leoncito: 20 km south of the village, altitude 1900 m. The Pampa del Leoncito was formerly a lake. Now it is dry and

681

forms an almost perfect, ripple-free plain. The flatness of the surface has given rise to a local sport known as carrovelismo: a vehicle is fitted with a sail and driven by the strong winds. The best conditions for sandyachting are in November. RP 412 to Uspallata passes through these flats. Eight km further on is a turn-off into the Arroyo de las Cabeceras, at the end of which is the Observatorio Astronómico El Leoncito. Unusually clear skies all year round have prompted the erection of this observatory. The surrounding area is a Reserva Natural Río de los Patos valley (also known as Valle de Calingasta) towards Aconcagua: There is a well-defined 55 km walking track as far as the junction of the Río de los Patos with Arroyo Aldeco and beyond. Here the valleys are narrow and glaciers come into view. The upper reaches of the Río de los Patos and Río Blanco belong to the sports and fishing club of San Juan, which runs the Refugio Las Hornillas, a fishing lodge with basic facilities, altitude 2000 m. The large glacier above Las Hornillas is the source of Arroyo Aldeco. This is the domain of the sport fisherman and the starting point for mountain hikes in the Cerro Mercedario area (6770 m). If you intend to hike

Barreal

CUYO PROVINCES

•

tunnels have been used for shelter by local tribes in pre- historic times. These ancient tribes left their marks in the form of rock paintings under an overhanging rock and man-made grooves in the rocks to grind grain and/or mix paints. They were hunters but also practiced a primitive form of agriculture. Difficult to reach from Barreal, better on a guided tour from San Juan

extensively through this area, buy your supplies in San Juan. A tent and sleeping bag are required as the nights are very chilly even in summer; this is only for the seasoned outdoor enthusiast. See also Excursions from San Juan on page 695 Los Morrillos de Ansilta are located 40 km south east of Barreal on the east side of the Cordón de Ansilta with peaks over 5500 m. Here natural

CALINGASTA

Calingasta Population: 2100 Postal code: 5403 @ area code: (02648) Altitude: 1375 m Distance from San Juan: 135 km west on RP 20

L

ocated in the wide and fertile Valle de Calingasta where the Río Castaño Viejo, the Río de los Patos, and the Río Calingasta meet to form the Río San Juan , Calingasta is the center of a fruit growing area, particularly grapes and apples; cider is produced in large quantities. There are also many copper deposits. Calingasta is an angler’s paradise, as the crystal-clear and icy waters abound with fish, particularly trout and salmon.

A Festivals •

U Motoring

Apple cider festival: April

E Eating out

Because of the narrowness of the road, traffic between San Juan and Calingasta on RP 20 is restricted to traffic traveling uphill to Calingasta between 06:00 and 12:00, and 12:00 till 18:00 to vehicles descending from Calingasta. • Service station: Y.P.F., access to town on the San Juan side

•

•

B Accommodation

A Calingasta Hotel, RP 406, Alto Calingasta 4 km outside town on the Barreal side F @ 421201 $H 2 •

Comedor Don Lalo, Rawson near Avenida Argentina Restaurant La Capilla, Avenida Argentina. Also accommodation @ 421033

s Excursions

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Avenida Argentina near Abasterain Telephone: Avenida Argentina near Rawson

•

S Buses •

El Triunfo ° Mendoza ($12.00; 5 1 2 hrs) via Barreal and Uspallata ; 2 weekly

Calingasta

682

Cerro Hilario: Near Tamberías, 14km south of Calingasta, you cross the Río de los Patos on a footbridge and arrive at the village of Hilario. On the mountain are pre-Columbian remains. It appears this was a tambo or runners’ staging post on the Inca trail penetrating into what is today Chile Castaño Viejo: Located on the upper reaches of the Río Castaño, Castaño Viejo (“Old Castaño”, to distinguish it from Castaño Nuevo, or “New Castaño”, through which you will pass on your way), is at the end of a

SAN JUAN dirt road. This area is much frequented by Argentine anglers. It is

beautiful, and unspoilt by mass tourism

PISMANTA

Pismanta Postal code: 5467 A area code: (02647) Altitude: 1700 m Distance from San Juan: 182 km north on RP 436 then RN 150

P

ismanta, also known as Termas de Pismanta, is located in the foothills of the pre-cordillera in a dry area. It consists only of a few isolated homesteads and estancias plus the thermal complex. The thermal water emerges at 42°C (105°F) and is slightly radioactive, and has a pleasant taste. Not far away are the thermal springs of Termas de Centenario which are on private property and have no facilities. The climate is pleasant for most of the year in particular from December to April. In summer the temperature is 28°C (78°F) but can plummet in winter to –7°C (22°F).

S Buses

The complex consists of a two-star hotel with a thermal spa, cabins, a swimming pool with 40°C (105°F) water, a casino, and an excellent dining room. The pergola set in the front garden is used for evening functions. The complex consists of two sections; although the newer section is slightly dearer, try to get accommodation there. Tip the attendant at the spa who checks your pulse.

• •

San Juan: Mon, Wed, Fri, Sun; 4 hours; Empresa Iglesia San José de Jáchal: Empresa Iglesia

U Motoring

•

Service station: A.C.A., in Las Flores, 4 km from Pismanta

s Excursions

•

Angualasto: 32 km north in the Río Jáchal valley; see Excursions from San Juan on page 696 and Angualasto on page 679. Empresa Iglesias runs daily buses

C Accommodation in Pismanta ***

Hotel Termas de Pismanta ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 497002/09 $D 2 It is possible to book in San Juan. Lower rates apply from Sun to Thurs; fax (0264) 4227505

Accommodation in Las Flores Las Flores is loacted 5 km south, at the turnoff to the Paso del Agua Negra. Cabañas

• Rucalén • Shirtley • Villa Los Perales

Accommodation in Bella Vista Bella Vista is located 15 km south, near Iglesia. Cabañas • Bella Vista. Also camping

683

@ @ @

497018 497018 4214191

@

496036

Pismanta

CUYO PROVINCES

RODEO

Rodeo Psotal code: 5465 @ area code: (02647) Altitude: 1600 Distance from San Juan: 197 km north on RN 40 then RP 436

R

odeo is situated on an elevated plain surrounded by mountains in the distance. Rodeo would be a stopping point for those who are interested in visiting the archeological site at Angualasto.

S Buses

Since the construction of the dam site of Presa Embalse y Central Hidroelectrica Cuesta del Viento 7 km from town, things are changing.

•

•

D Camping •

Municipal Rodeo

s Excursions

E Eating out •

Empresa Iglesia runs daily services to and from San Juan via Termas de Pismanta. Services also run up to Angualasto Empresa T.A.C. also runs services to San Juan via San José Jáchal, and to Termas de Pismanta

• •

Comedor Las Vegas, in the main street. Rather in the style of a “gaucho bar”

Pismanta: See Pismanta on page 683 Angualasto: See Excursions from San Juan on 696 and Angualasto on page 679

C Accommodation in Rodeo Cabañas • • • • • • • •

Los Capayanes Marinero Mercado Municipales Ovejero Sancassani Varela Villafañe

Hospedajes

• La Olla

@

493035

@ @ @ @ @ @

493129 493008 (264) 4264812 493185 493136 493178

@

497003

Accommodation in Tudcum Tudcum is 12 km west of Rodeo and 7 km north of Pismanta. This little village is off the beaten track in Valle de Rodeo, and can be used by outdoor enthusiasts as a base for excursions into the Quebrada de la Pancha. • Cabañas Villa Italia

Rodeo

@

684

498010

SAN JUAN

SAN AGUSTÍN DE VALLE FÉRTIL

San Agustín de Valle Fértil Population: 3000 Postal code: 5449 @ area code: (02646) Altitude: 800 Distance from San Juan: 250 km north-east on RN 141 then RP 510

S

an Agustín de Valle Fértil is located in a valley formed by the Río del Valle. It was founded in 1788 by Pedro Pablo de Quiroga. Tourism and weaving provide the population’s main income. The setting is very picturesque; the Sierra del Valle Fértil to the west reaches its highest point with Cerro Colorado at 2350 m. The flora is subtropical and partially covers the mountain sides.

B Tourist information •

•

Información Turística, General Acha near Mitre on the Plaza

S Buses

D Camping •

The bus terminal is on Mitre near Entre Ríos. Buses going either to San Juan or to La Rioja are usually full. • Empresa Vallecito SRL, Entre Ríos @ 420427 ° San Juan; 2–3 daily ° La Rioja ($8.00) via Parque Ischigualasto and Chilecito; 2 weekly • La Estrella ° Santiago del Estero (101 2 hrs) via La Rioja (41 2 hrs) ° Mendoza (61 2 hrs) via San Juan ($20.00; 41 2 hrs); 1 daily

Camping Valle Fértil, below the Hostería Valle Fértil A Camping Municipal, near the water reservoir San Agustín; basic

•

E Eating out •

Cafetería Antocelia, General Acha near Mitre Cafetería El Quijote, Rivadavia near C. Elizondo. Disco Restaurant La Noche Azul, General Acha Restaurant Rancho Criollo El Astigueño, Tucumán near Córdoba

• • •

U Motoring

I Post and telegraph •

Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Mendoza near Rivadavia

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Mendoza near Laprida

Service station: A.C.A., General Acha near 9 de Julio. Hires four-wheel

C Accommodation in San Agustín de Valle Fértil • Hostería Valle Fértil, Rivadavia Run by the A.C.A.

ES

Residenciales A Ischigualasto, Aberastain near Mitre LP A Los Olivos, Santa Fe near Tucumán FLP A San Agustín, Rivadavia near B B

Juan Rojas LP Santa Fe, Santa Fe near General Acha L Villalón, Tucumán near 9 de Julio FL

Cabañas

• Jorgito, Laprida near entre Ríos • Cabañas Villa del Lago 1, Rioja near Rivadavia

685

@

420015/17

$E

2

@ @

420146 420115

$H $F

2 6

@

420004

@

420148

$J $H $J

1 2 1

@ @

420369 (0264) 4230717 $F

5

San Agustín de Valle Fértil

CUYO PROVINCES To Parque Provincial Ischigualasto

510

25 DE MAYO

RIOJA

TUCUM ÁN

GENE RAL ACHA

MENDO ZA

lle

SAN LUIS

.A LE M

Trail

SAN MARTÍ N

LAPRID A D E

RIVAD AVIA

3

Plaza San Agustín A del Valle Fértil

8 7

I

511

To La Rioja

L .N

o

RCA

co

C AT A M A

Se Rí

2

Va

l

ENTRE RÍOS

F l de

ti er

SARMIEN TO

JUA N ROJ AS

1

B. MITRE 6 5

SANTA FE Dam

10 11

9

CÓRDO BA

N

GENER AL PAZ

Dique San Agustín 9 DE JULIO P

SAN AGUSTÍN DE VALLE FERTIL

12

510

To San Juan

Key to map A D E I P

Iglesia Nuestra Señora del Rosario Correo Argentino Telefónica de Argentina Información Turística A.C.A.

6 7 8 10 11 12

Hostería Valle Fértil Camping Valle Fértil Residencial San Agustín Residencial Santa Fe Residencial Los Olivos Residencial Villalón

3 Accommodation 5

Camping Municipal

9

Restaurant Rancho Criollo El Astigueño

9 Sights 1 2 3

Meseta Ritual Morteros Indígenos Piedra Pintada

a Sport

drive vehicles for a day trip to Parque Provincial Ischigualasto

There is pejerrey fishing in the nearby artificial lake.

Y Shopping

p Sightseeing

Homespun articles made from wool and alpaca-wool ponchos are good buys. The skills are usually part of a family tradition going back centuries. • Serapio Herrera, Aberastain near Córdoba

San Agustín de Valle Fértil

4 Eating out

The area around San Agustín has many archeological sites dating back to pre-Hispanic times. Within walking distance from the town center there are three sites: the rock paintings of Piedra Pintada and Morteros Indígenas can be reached by following Rivadavia to the

686

SAN JUAN river then crossing the river and following the trail north. Meseta Ritual is located north of the river opposite Calle Tucumán.

s Excursions •

Parque Provincial Ischigualasto, also called Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon): 78 km north of San Agustín, 18 km beyond Los Baldecitos. This is a graveyard of long-extinct dinosaurs from the Mesozoic era. Petrified prehistoric araucarias and fern trees can also be seen. Some of the fossils are on display at

•

the Museo Bernardino Rivadavia in Buenos Aires. Erosion has created some grotesque rock formations. A car trip round the reserve takes two or three hours and is conducted by guardaparques. At the park entrance is a small shop where you can buy refreshments. Best visited with a tour operator. Guided tours leave from San Juan and La Rioja. Or hire a jeep with a driver from the local A.C.A. Parque Provincial Talampaya: See Provincial parks and reserves in La Rioja Province on page 699 and Excursions from La Rioja on page 715

SAN JOSÉ DE JÁCHAL

San José de Jáchal Population: 9800 Postal code: 5460 @ area code: (02647) Altitude: 1162 m Distances From San Juan: 160 km north on RP 40 • • From Chilecito in La Rioja Province: 246 km south on RP 40, via Cuesta de Miranda, a mountain pass

S

an José de Jachál was founded by Capitán Juan de Echegaray in 1751. It is in a central position for excursions to Huaco and the Termas de Agua Negra 11 km south of town. The local church is a monumento histórico and contains art treasures in the form of paintings of the Cuzco School.

Huaco

their origin here. There is also a century-old algarrobo tree; Chacho Peñalosa, a renowned fighter during the Independence wars, used to rest in its shade. The area has been made famous by the writings of the Argentine poet Buenaventura Luna, who is buried here; his real name was Jesús Dojorti, he was a member of the family that owned the mill. Also of interest is Dique Cauquenes, an artificial lake, and the Quebrada de Huaco. At this stage it is unknown whether the local Hostería Provincial de Turismo is open for business. Buses run frequently to and from San Juan.

This traditional village is located 32 km east of San José de Jáchal in the Río Huaco valley, 6 km south of the main road where time appears to have stood still; it was founded around 1800. The main attraction is the Termas de Agua Hedionda (you can’t miss the smell — the name means “Stinking Water”!). Of interest to the tourist is the old mill which has been owned by the same family for 200 years; it is water-driven and the villagers from afar used to bring their wheat to be milled. While waiting they entertained themselves and many songs and local dances have

687

San José de Jáchal

CUYO PROVINCES B Tourist information •

S Buses

The bus terminal is on the corner of Obispo Zapata and San Juan. • T.A.C. ° Mendoza via Pismanta and San Juan (3 hrs); 2 daily ° Chilecito (7 hrs) via Cuesta de Miranda ; 1–2 daily • Del Sur y Media Agua ° Mendoza via San Juan; 2 daily

Información Turística, in the Municipalidad (Town Hall), San Juan (on the Plaza)

C Accommodation

A Residencial Hotel Plaza, San Juan 546 ELP directly up from the bus terminal @ 420256 $G 2. Cheaper without a bath A Residencial Hotel San Martín, Juan de Echegaray 367 LP @ 420431 $H 2

U Motoring

E Eating out • •

• • • •

RP 40 north to Villa Unión is sealed for part of its 144 km. The landscape is varied, mostly dry and desert-like interrupted by green oases with olives, grapes, and fruit trees. • Service station: A.C.A., Avenida Santiago Funes

538 (on the Plaza) Restaurant Chabela, Avenida Santiago del Estero near Avenida 25 de Mayo Cafetería El Ciervo, Juan de Echegaray near San Martín Cafetería Impacto, Florida near Rawson. Disco Cafetería Kobak, Juan de Echegaray near San Martín Comedor La Cabaña, D.F. Sarmiento

s Excursions

• •

I Post and telegraph • •

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, San Martín 490 Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, Agustín Gómez near Sarmiento

• •

Pismanta: There is a hotel here. See Excursions from San Juan on page 696 and Pismanta on page 683 Termas de Agua Negra: 7km. There are no tourist facilities Termas de Agua Hedionda (“Stinking Water”): 29 km Dique Los Cauquenes: 33 km east near Huaco. Fishing in the dam La Huerta de Huachi: 32 km. Mountain walks

SAN JUAN

San Juan Population: 355 000 Postal code: 5400 @ area code: (0264) Altitude: 650 m Distances • From Buenos Aires 1104 km north-west • From Córdoba: 590 km west on RP 20 • From La Rioja via Olta: 520 km south-west on RP 38 then 79 and 141 • From Mendoza: 166 km north on RP 40

T

he capital of San Juan Province is located in the pre-cordillera on the Río San Juan in the southern part of the province. It was founded in 1562 by Don Juan Jufre de Loayza y Montese, an emissary sent by the Chilean viceroy to found Spanish towns on the eastern side of the Andes. This area was then inhabited by the Huarpes Indians. The town was destroyed by a devastating earthquake in 1944 but has since been completely rebuilt.

San Juan

688

SAN JUAN C Accommodation in San Juan

Hotel bookings: Hotel Termas de Pismanta, Sarmiento 24 (S) @ 4224466. Apart hotels ****

Villa Don Tomás, Cdte. Cabot 568 (O) ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 4221536; e-mail: [email protected] @ 4283799

$G

2

$D

2

$E $F

2 2

$F $F

2 2

$F $G $G

2 2 2

$G

2

$G

2

$G

2

Hotels

ACDEFGHJKLMNPRS$TUVXYZ @ 4214965 **** ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUYZ @ 4227501 *** Capayán, Mitre 31 (E) ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 4214222 ** Alhambra, General Acha 180 (S) AEFGJLPSUV Fax 4214122 @ 4218524 ** Bristol, Entre Ríos 368 (S) AEFGJLPUV @ 4214629 ** Jardín Petit, 25 de Mayo 345 (E) AEFGJLPSUV Fax 4211464 @ 4211825 ** Plaza, Sarmiento 344 (S) AEFGJLPSUV @ 4225179 ** Selby, Rioja 183 (S) AEFGJLPUV @ 4224777 * América, 9 de Julio 1052 (E) AELPV Near the bus terminal @ 4214514 * Brescia, España 336 (S) AELPV Near the railway station. Known to the locals as “El Pepe” @ 4225708 • San Francisco, España 284 (S) GHLPY Near former railway station; e-mail: [email protected] @ 4223760

*****

Alkazar, Laprida 82 (E) Fax 4214977 Nogaró, Ignazio de la Roza 132 (E)

Residenciales A A A A A B

Capri, General Acha 533 (S) Embajador, Rawson 25 (S) Hostal Suizo, Salta 272 (S) Karlos, Salta 785 (N) La Toja, Rivadavia 494 (E) El Mendocino, España 334 (S) Near the former railway station B Roy, Entre Ríos 182 (S)

LP AELP LPS HLP AEHLP EL L

@ @ @ @ @

4222988 4225520fax 4224293 4219095 4222584

$G $H $G $H $H

2 2 2 2 2

@ @

4225930 4224391

$J $H

2 2

@

4262216

$G

2

Accommodation in suburb of Rivadavia Apart hotels ****

Posada del Sol, H. Yrigoyen near 25 de Mayo ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUYZ

Accommodation in suburb of Chimbas Chimbas is located 5 km north of the town center overlooking the Río San Juan. Hotels

• Como En Casa, España 33 (N) • Von Sua, Cipoletti 789 (N)

@ @

4216465 4239047

• Casa Quinta, Avenida Lib. General. San Martín 5342 (E) S @

4217379

Accommodation in suburb Santa Lucia Santa Lucia is located 3 km east of the center. Cabañas Accommodation in Caucete

• Hotel Azcuena, Salvador M. del Carril 432

689

@

$H

1

4961234

San Juan

CUYO PROVINCES Accommodation in San Juan — continued Accommodation in Vallecito Vallecito is a small village located 60 km east of San Juan on RN 141 just one km south of Difunta Correa. Empresa Vallecito has 5 services daily to and from San Juan. @

A Residencial Difunta Correa, RN 141 KM 25

The center of town is Plaza 25 de Mayo with the Cathedral on the north-eastern corner. San Juan is the birthplace of Domingo F. Sarmiento, the eminent historian, educator, and president from 1868 to 1874. The house in which he was born is now a museum. The town is also strategically situated near the artificial lake Gran Presa de Embalse Quebrada de Ullum (also known as Dique José Ignacio de la Roza). Here water sports such as sailing, wind surfing, and fishing can be enjoyed. The town itself is a good base for exploring the mountainous regions to the west and north, some of which exceed 5000 m in height, as Key to map

A B C D E H I P $ T

Iglesia Catedral Gobernación Provincial (Government) Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica Argentina Hospital Rawson Ente Provincial de Turismo A.C.A. Banco de la Provincia de San Juan Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 2 7 8 11 14 17 19 23 26 28 29

Hotel América Residencial Embajador Residencial La Toja Hotel Jardín Petit Hotel Selby Hotel Alhambra Hotel Nogaró Hotel Alkazar Hotel Capayán Residencial Capri Residencial Roy Hotel Bristol

San Juan

32 36 37 38 39

4961018

Hotel Plaza Residencial Hostal Suizo Residencial San Francisco Residencial El Mendocino Hotel Brescia

9 Turismo de Lara Luluaga 24 Yanzón Viajes y Turismo

9 Sights 3

Cafetería Capriccio

Museo Histórico Provincial Agustín Gnecco and Centro Cultural San Juan and Museo de Bellas Artes Franklin Rawson Biblioteca Franklin Museo Histórico San Martiniano Casa Natal de Domingo F Sarmiento Museo de Ciencias Naturales Defunct F C General San Martín rail station

Restaurant Los Gorditos Restaurant Don Serapio Café do Brazil Restaurant Club Español Restaurant Club Sirio Libanés 31 Restaurant Un Rincón de Napoli 34 Restaurant Soichu

20 27

5 Entertainment 6 Airline offices

0 Services

16 LAPA 25 Aerolineas Argentinas

7 Tour operators and car rental 6

2

well as the province’s number one attraction, Parque Provincial Ischigualasto (also called Valle de la Luna or “Valley of the Moon”). Several thermal spas are also located in the province, the best known being Pismanta. Note that Avenida General San Martín divides the town into north and south. Street names are the same and the building numbers start afresh at the Avenida, distinguished only by the affix “N” for “Norte” (or North) and “S” for “Sur” (or South). Similarly Avenida Mendoza divides the city into east and west, and building numbers start afresh at this Avenida, distinguished only by the affix “O” for “Oeste” (or West) and

4 Eating out 4 5 10 15 21 22 30

$G

Almen Tours Yafar Turismo

690

33 35 40

12 Dirección de Recursos Renovables 13 Cambio Santiago 18 Casa de Cambio Bolsa de Comercio

SAN JUAN SAN JUAN

20 1

Ú

T

3

N

2

4

GÜEMES (S)

GÜEMES (N) 5

6 CASEROS (N)

40

To Mendoza

H

9 DE JULIO

GENERAL PAZ

AVE. RAWSON (S)

SANTA FE

AVE. RAWSON (N)

MITRE

RIVADAVIA

LAPRIDA

LUNA

PATRICIAS SANJUANINAS

SAN LUIS

25 DE MAYO

40

EST ADO S UNI DOS

BOULOGNE SUR MER

M A IP

EST ADO S UNI DOS

CASEROS (S) Plaza Aberastain

ABERASTAIN (N)

ABERASTAIN(S)

C

Plaza J.M. Paz

CATAMARCA (N) 35

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO (N)

29

30

E 31 I SARMIENTO (S) 33

34

CATAMARCA (S)

AVE. L .N. ALEM (S)

32

9 DE JULIO (E)

GENERAL PAZ (E)

26

P

9 DE JULIO (O)

28 ENTRE RÍOS (S)

25

GENERAL PAZ (O)

24

MITRE (O)

27

23

AVE. CÓRDOBA (E)

$

A

Plaza Laprida

AVE. L .N. ALEM (N)

18

GENERAL ACHA (S) Plaza $ 20 19 25 de 22 Mayo 21 MENDOZA (S)

AVE. CÓRDOBA (O)

17

12

SANTA FE (E)

14

15 16

D

SANTA FE (O)

$

RIVADAVIA (E)

13

RIVADAVIA (O)

SARMIENTO (N)

AVE. SAN MARTÍN (O)

SAN LUIS (O)

PEDRO ECHAGÜE (O)

ENTRE RÍOS (N)

25 DE MAYO (O)

MENDOZA (N)

TUCUMÁN (S)

LAPRIDA (E)

AVE. SAN MARTÍN (E)

GENERAL ACHA (N)

SAN LUIS (E)

25 DE MAYO (E)

TUCUMÁN (N)

AVE. RIOJA (S) 11 10

9

AVE. JOSÉ IGNACIO DE LA ROZA (O)

AVE. RIOJA (N)

LAPRIDA (O)

PEDRO ECHAGÜE (E)

MAIPÚ (E)

8

MITRE (E)

JUJUY (S)

AVE. JOSÉ IGNACIO DE LA ROZA (E)

7

JUJUY (N)

MAIPÚ (O)

To San José de Jachal

To Córdoba

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO (S)

36 AVE. SALTA (N)

AVE. SALTA (S)

38 39

37 AVE. ESPAÑA (N)

AVE. ESPAÑA (S) 40

14

AVE. LAS HERAS (N)

20

AVE. LAS HERAS (S)

To Ullun

To Calingasta

691

San Juan

CUYO PROVINCES •

Listo El Pollo, Avenida San Martín near Santiago del Estero • Los Gorditos, Laprida 277 (E). Pizzería • Soichu, Avenida J.I. de la Roza near Sarmiento • Un Rincón de Napoli, Rivadavia 175 (O) Pizzería Cafeterías • Café do Brazil, Mendoza 178 (S) • Capriccio, Avenida Rawson 673 (S) • Mathias, Rivadavia 55. Bar • Piccolo, General Acha (S) near Mitre

“E” for “Este” (or East). In the Travel Companion the affixes are given following the street number.

B Tourist information •

Ente Provincial de Turismo, Sarmiento 24 (S), opposite Sarmiento museum @ 4210004 fax 4225778 Dirección de Recursos Renovables, Mitre 357 (E) 1st floor @ 4224425 fax 4221358. Permits and travel arrangements to visit Reserva Nacional San Guillermo; see page 680

•

D Camping

Eating out in the suburbs • Wiesbaden, Avenida Circunvalación near Libertador

•

Eating out in the district of Desamparados • Las Cubas, San Martín near Moreno. Parrilla

•

Municipal Rivadavia, in Parque Federico Cantoni, 19km west of town center $J 1 Cerro Blanco, Zonda 32 km west of town center $J 1 El Pinar, Rivadavia 11 km west of town center $J 1

•

n Entertainment

•

Casino de San Juan, Libertador San Martín 862 (O) • Teatro Sarmiento, Avenida Leandro N. Alem is the venue for theatrical and musical performances Entertainment in Marquezado • Night Club Poka Toc, Avenida San Martín • Night Club Rogelio, Avenida San Martín

E Eating out Restaurants • Carlos V, Avenida J.I. de la Roza 1559 (O) • Club Español, Rivadavia 32 (E). Spanish cuisine • Club Sirio Libanés, Entre Rios 33 (S). Lebanese cuisine • Don Serapio, Avenida J.I. de la Roza 174 (E). K • La Bodega, Laprida 82 (E). International cuisine • Las Leñas, Avenida Lib. Gen. San Martín 1674 (O). Parrilla

I Post and telegraph

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, J.I. de la Roza 259 (E)

R Air services from San Juan

Las Chacritas Airport is 14 km south-west off RN 20 @ 4250486. Airlines • A.L.T.A. Líneas Aéreas, Entreríos 24 (N) @ 4214038 • Austral, Ave. San Martín 215 (O) @ 4220205 • DINAR Líneas Aéreas, Rivadavia 2400 (O) @ 4214816 • Southern Winds and TAN, Ave. José Ignacio de la Roza 288 (E) @ 4250399/4202000; e-mail: [email protected] • LAPA, J.I. de la Roza 160 (E) @ 4216039 Services • • • •

Destination Buenos Aires Córdoba Neuquén Mendoza

San Juan

Fare $120.00 $68.00 $110.00

Services 3 daily

Duration 11 2 hrs 1 hr

6 weekly

1

692

2

hr

SAN JUAN S Buses from San Juan

The bus terminal is in Estados Unidos 492 between General Paz and Santa Fe @ 4221604. There are no direct bus services between San Juan and La Serena in Chile via the Paso del Agua Negra. Companies operating from terminal • Andesmar @ 4222871 ° Jujuy via Chepes, La Rioja, Catamarca, Tucumán, and Salta; 2–3 daily ° Mar del Plata ($72.00) via Santa Rosa and Bahía Blanca • Autotransportes Mendoza, local 40 @ 4217735 • Autotransportes San Juan @ 4273897 ° Buenos Aires ($55.00, 16 hrs) via Parque Nacional Las Quijadas, San Luis,Villa Mercedes (51 2 hrs), Río Cuarto (71 2 hrs), and La Carlota (91 2 hrs); 1 daily ° Córdoba (131 2 hrs) via Mendoza (21 2 hrs), San Martín, San Luis (61 2 hrs),Villa Mercedes (81 4 hrs), and Río Cuarto (101 2 hrs); 1 daily ° Córdoba via Chepes; 1 nightly • Autotransportes TICSA @ 4214175 ° Bahía Blanca via San Luis,Villa Mercedes, Justo Darac,Vicuña Mackenna, Huinca Renancó, Realicó, General Pico, Castex, Santa Rosa, and General San Martín; 1 daily • Buses 20 de Junio @ 4221870 ° Córdoba via Chepes • COTAL @ 4273897 ° Posadas via Resistencia and Corrientes • Empresa del Sur y Media Agua @ 4223799 ° Merlo via San Luis; 1 daily ° Neuquén ($51.00, 16 hrs) via Mendoza ° Rosario via Córdoba; 1 daily ° San José de Jáchal • Empresa El Triunfo/Línea 22 @ 4214532 ° Aeropuerto; 14 daily ° Barreal via Calingata • Empresa Iglesia @ 4221181 ° Termas de Pismanta ($15.00; 4 hrs) via Talacasto and Iglesia ($15.00; 33 4 hrs); Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat ° Angualasto via Talacasto, Iglesia, Termas de Pismanta ($15.00; 4 hrs), and Rodeo; 1–2 weekly • Empresa Ullum/Línea 29 @ 4221910 ° Ullum; 7 daily • Empresa Vallecito @ 4214509/4211814 ° Chilecito via Caucete, Difunta Correa Difunta Correa ($3.00, 21 2 hrs), and San Agustín de Valle Fértil ($20.00; 4 hrs) ° San Agustín del Valle Fértil ( $20.00; 4 hrs); 2–3 daily • La Estrella, local 9 @ 4214125/4214465 ° Paraná via Santa Fe; 1 daily ° Tucumán via La Rioja and Catamarca; 1 daily • Línea 23 @ 4234396 ° Zonda; 15 daily • Sol y Valles, @ 4217745 • T.A.C., local 3,4,5,6 @ 4214108 ° Barreal ($15.00; 41 2 hrs) via Calingasta ($11.00; 31 2 hrs); 1 daily ° Chilecito via San José de Jáchal ($13.00; 3 hrs) and Villa Unión; 2 daily ° Mendoza; 2-3 daily ° Uspallata (Mendoza) via Calingasta and Barreal; 1 weekly; this is a scenic trip. • T.A. Chevallier ° Córdoba; 1 daily

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San Juan

CUYO PROVINCES Buses from San Juan — continued •

Transporte La Cumbre @ 4275015 ° Córdoba; 1 daily Companies with own terminal • Autotransporte SOCASA., Ave. Argentina 160 (N) @ 4214685 ° Córdoba via Chepes; 2 daily ° Difunta Correa via Caucete; 3 daily Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

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Destination Fare Buenos Aires $58.00 Catamarca $30.00 Chilecito Comodoro Rivadavia $130.00 Córdoba $26.00 Jujuy $60.00 La Rioja $22.00 Mendoza $14.00 Rosario $38.00 Salta $60.00 San Luis $17.00 Santiago del Estero Tucumán $42.00 Villa Unión $25.00

Duration 16 hrs 8 hrs 9 hrs 73 4 hrs 18 hrs 6 1 2 hrs 2 hrs 12 hrs 17 hrs 4 hrs 14 1 2 hrs 13 hrs

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Telephones: Telefónica Argentina, Laprida 126 (O)

L Financial • • •

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Banco de la Provincia de San Juan, Rivadavia 44 (E). ATM Cambio Santiago, General Acha 52 (S) @ 4212232 Casa de Cambio Bolsa de Comercio, General Acha 278 (S). Open 08:30–13:30

T Trains

The now disused F C General San Martín railroad station is on Avenida España block 200 (S).

M Services and facilities •

Y Shopping

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Hospital: Hospital Rawson, Rawson near General Paz

U Motoring

Mercado Artesanal, 25 de Mayo 1215 (O)

a Sport

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RP 40 between San Juan and Mendoza runs for the most part in a straight line and is in excellent condition. The road to La Rioja, RP 141 and 150, via San Agustín de Valle Fértil has been improved. Service stations • A.C.A., General Acha 699 (S) • AI, Ave. 9 de Julio 1052 (E) @ 4214514 fax

San Juan

Localiza, Avenida Rioja 1187 (S) @ 4219494. Small car rental: $60.00 per day, $0.37 per km, plus tax and insurance Rent a 4x4 Autos, Aberastain 470 (S) @ 4277373

Golf: Club Amancay, Roque Sáenz Peña 8116, Alto de Sierra 5438 @ (02441) 421950

p Sightseeing

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Biblioteca Franklin, Laprida 63 (E) is one of the oldest libraries in South America. Founded by D.F. Sarmiento in 1866 Casa Natal de Domingo F Sarmiento (Birthplace of Domingo F Sarmiento),

SAN JUAN

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Sarmiento 21 (S): Innumerable memorabilia of this great man are well exhibited in nine rooms, including archives and furniture of the period when he was Governor of San Juan and President of Argentina. Open Tues–Sun from 08:00–13:00 and 15:00–20:00, Mon and Sat 09:00–14:00 Centro Cultural San Juan, Ave. G. Rawson near General Paz is the home of two museums: Museo Histórico Provincial “Agustín Gnecco” (Agustín Gnecco Provincial Historical Museum) and Museo de Bellas Artes “Franklin Rawson” (Franklin Rawson Fine Arts Museum) The Museo Histórico has on exhibit samples of colonial art with a section on prehistoric archeology; a coin and stamp collection; and a replica of an early wine cellar. On exhibit at the Museo de Bellas Artes are paintings and sculptures of Argentine artists. Franklin Rawson was a famous local painter. Open Tues–Sun 09:00–13:00 Museo Arqueológico Profesor Mariano Gambier (Profesor Mariano Gambier Archeological Museum): Located in the district of Albardón, 10 km from the city center across the Río San Juan, on the corner of La Laja and Sarmiento. The mummies on exhibit come from Cerro Los Morillos and Cerro del Toro. There are frequent municipal buses. Interesting exhibit of archeological pieces dating back to 5000 BC Museo de Ciencias Naturales (Natural Sciences Museum), corner of San Martín and Catamarca. On exhibit are fossilised dinosaurs. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–12:00 and 16:00–20:00, Sat 09:00–12:00 Museo Geográfico Einstein (Einstein Geographical Museum), Túnel de Zonda, Municipalidad de Rivadavia. Exhibited are archeological and geological samples found in the province. Frequent local buses Museo Histórico San Martiniano (San Martín Historic Museum), Laprida 57 (O). This was part of the Convento de Santo Domingo (Dominican Convent), built in the early 17th century and the only part which survived the disastrous earthquake of 1944. Here is

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the cell which served San Martín as office and quarters during his liberation campaign. On exhibit are his camp bed, table and chairs used by the national hero. Open Tues–Fri 08:00–13:00 and 15:00–18:00; Sat 08:00–13:00 Parque de Mayo, San Martín (past the railroad line): This park is an oasis in the middle of town with an artificial lake (where you can hire a boat), and a soccer stadium for 10 000 spectators

s Excursions Tour operators • Almen Tours, 25 de Mayo 698 (E) @ 4213848 fax • Turismo de Lara Luluaga, Ave. Santa Fe 353(E) @ 4214703 fax • Yafar Turismo, Rivadavia 182 (O) local 1 @ 4200454 • Yanzón Viajes y Turismo, Mendoza 322(S) @ 4214200 fax • Ramón Ossa @ 441004 organizes trips to lesser known areas in the cordillera; suitable for fit persons only as walks are usually above the 4000m mark Excursions Visits to local bodegas or wineries are organized by local tour operators. Two of the best known bodegas are in town: Bodega de Chirina, Salta 782 (N) and Bodega López Peláez, Ave. Alem 823 (N); in the district of Albardón is Bodega Resero, Santiago del Estero 320. • Baño del Indio is an archeological site outside the town of Caucete . The site is located in the Quebrada del Baño del Indio and is a one and a half hour walk from Caucete. This was apparently a shrine venerated by the local tribes; on the rock faces are numerous rock paintings. Although this excursion can be made using frequent Vallecito buses it is better to go on a conducted tour • Difunta Correa: A Catholic shrine at Vallecito, 61 km east on RP 141. It commemorates the miraculous survival of a baby in this dry area living off its dead mother’s milk. Thousands of pilgrims flock here, especially at Easter and May 1. In the vicinity are also several hot mineral springs

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Paso del Agua Negra: The mountain scenery is superb; see description on page 678 Calingasta and Barreal: Leave San Juan on the Avenida Ignacio de la Roza, which becomes RP 20. Just before Zonda is the seismologic institute. The road passes the Gran Presa de Embalse Quebrada de Ullum, and from here onwards the road winds its way up through the narrow and picturesque Río San Juan valley. After crossing the Río Saisa the valley widens. The slopes of the mountains are bare except for a type of round cactus. Where the Río Uruguay joins the Río Saisa there is a brief glimpse of snow-covered mountains on the left-hand side. For long stretches the road consists of only one lane; for this reason the road is open to traffic ascending westwards 06:00–12:00, and from 12:00–18:00 it is open to traffic descending eastwards, but from 18:00 onwards it is open to traffic in both directions. From Río Uruguay onwards the road becomes patchy and bumpy with a bad spot at KM 95. The highest point is the Portezuelo El Tambor at 1050 m. From here the road descends into the Calingasta valley. After the small township of Pachaco (where there is a hostería), the valley narrows considerably. The river flats are covered with waist-high shrubs. There are bauxite mines in the district. Gradually the snow-capped Cordillera de la Totora comes into view. Outside Calingasta is an A.C.A. service station. Calingasta is located on the Río de los Patos; see Calingasta on page 682. About 4 km outside town on the Barreal side is the Hotel Minar. From Tamberías onwards you can catch occasional glimpses of Cerro Aconcagua on the right-hand side. You can visit on foot the archeological site of Cerro Hilario, where there are remains of an Incan tambería or runners’ staging post. From here onwards is magnificent mountain scenery set in orchards and vineyards which continue to Barreal; see Barreal on page 680. The mountain streams are ice-cold and abound with trout and salmon

San Juan

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San Agustín de Valle Fértil and Parque Provincial Ischigualasto: The guided tour includes a visit to the shrine Difunta Correa; see Parque Provincial Ischigualasto (also called Valle de la Luna) on page 687 and Excursions from San Agustín on page 685. Frequent buses to Valle Fértil but not to Parque Provincial Ischigualasto. Guided tour from San Juan suggested Termas de Talacasto are located 60 km north of San Juan on RN 40 at an altitude of 1190 m. The thermal water emerges at 26°C (80°F) and is strongly mineralized. It has no facilities other than an un-serviced camping area Huaco and Pismanta: Tour operators organize conducted tours which include the Termas de Pismanta and the scenic route from Rodeo through the Río Jáchal valley to San José de Jáchal and to Huaco. The highlight of this trip is the spa complex of Termas de Pismanta, 181 km north of San Juan; see Huaco on page 687 and Pismanta on page 683 Parque Provincial Federico Cantoni: Located only 17 km west of the city center, this 4 km long canyon is also known as Quebrada de Zonda and Parque Rivadavia. In the middle of the valley’s groves and meadows is a camping ground on the estero brook. The Parque de los Poetas forms part of the area. Nearby is a 3.2 km car-racing circuit. The mountains are bare of growth but an attempt is made to aforest the slopes. A tunnel into the mountain is the home of the Museo Geográfico Einstein (Einstein Geographical Museum) Tamberías de Angualasto via Pismanta: Transporte Iglesias runs a daily service from the bus terminal. Angualasto is located on the former Inca road in the Río Jáchal valley, and the remains of a pre-Colombian settlement and of a tambo or runners’ staging post can still be seen in the vicinity. There is also a monument to the Indian people. There is no accommodation here and archeology enthusiasts are advised either to camp out or to return to Pismanta, which

SAN JUAN pass there are huts for the road maintenance crew, which can be used as shelter. From the pass there are splendid views of the snow-covered Cordillera de Collanguil in the distance. After the pass the road descends again and there is a long stretch of salina along the road. Then the valley widens, and the mountains on the western side become higher. It is very dry country. At Las Flores is an A.C.A. service station with a cafeteria. Here is the turnoff to the Paso del Agua Negra and Chile, RP 150. Not far away on the left-hand side are the Termas de Centenario, hot springs with no facilities. The large Pismanta spa complex comes into sight; see Pismanta on page 683. Accommodation is available in the little town of Rodeo, 12 km further up the valley; see Rodeo on page 684. From the turn-off up the Río Jáchal the road deteriorates considerably

has a hotel with a thermal spa. Rodeo 19 km south is a departamental capital. It is a very traditional place with old adobe houses. Of interest is the Iglesia de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, the Museo Arqueológico and the Museo del Hombre Iglesiano both located in the Municipalidad. The Finca El Martillo is an experimental farm raising vicuñas. There is a residencial — more like a gaucho bar — with basic accommodation. There is good fishing in the river. The bus leaves San Juan at 07:45 and initially travels through flat countryside. At Talacasto is the turn-off north-west to RP 436. Twelve kilometers after the turn-off are the thermal springs of T e r m a s d e T a l a c a s t o, o n t h e right-hand side of the road at the foot of Cerro El Sapo; there are no tourist facilities. The spring is situated at a height of 1150 m, and the water temperature is 25°C (75°F). The road gradually climbs up to the Portezuelo del Colorado, passing a flat area called Pampa de Gualilan. At the

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LA RIOJA LA C La UYO Rioja RIOJA PROVINCES

Plate 15 701 702 703 704 704 709 710 717 717 719 719 720

Map of La Rioja Province Aimogasta ACEUSYWstu Chamical ABCSUWs Chepes CUWs Chilecito ABCDEnJKLRSUWXYZpqrst Map La Rioja ABCEnJKLNORSUWXYZopqr Map s Olta BC Pueblos de la Costa ACqst Salicas ACSUbqst Ulapes CU Villa Unión ABCDSWUbstv

a Rioja Province is located in the north-western part of Argentina. It borders with Catamarca to the north and east, Córdoba to the east, San Luis to the south, San Juan to the south-west, and Chile to the west. It measures 92 000 square km and has approximately 200 000 inhabitants, about half of which live in and around the capital, La Rioja city.

L

La Rioja can be classified as a “Pampa-Andean” Province. It is green towards the west where the pre-Andean hills begin, but is dry in the east, which consists of salt-bush steppe interrupted by many salt lakes such as Salina La Antigua and Salinas Grandes, which is shared with Córdoba Province. Vegetation in the dry east consists mostly of cactus and acacia-like trees. Typical of the flora is the palo boracho tree,

which has a wide-bellied trunk similar to the Australian bottle-tree. The province is divided into 18 departamentos. The climate is dry and hot in the plains but temperate in the valleys. In summer the temperature can rise to 40°C (106°F), but it is also the wettest season. In winter the average temperature is 12°C (56°F) in the low-lying parts of the province. In the higher regions it can get very

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LA RIOJA cold in winter, with snow covering the peaks in the Sierra de Velasco, Sierra de Famatina, and of course the peaks of the Andes which reach over 6000 m. A hot wind sweeping down from the Chaco can bring sudden rises in temperature. The mean annual temperature is 19°C (62°F): the mean winter temperature is 12°C (55°F) and the mean summer temperature is 32°C (86°F). The climate is influenced by altitude. In the mountain valleys the soil is fertile and yields an abundance of crops such as grapes, citrus fruit, figs, and olives. The pastures are too dry to run cattle, so the only animals kept are goats and sheep. In the northern part of the province small herds of llamas and alpacas are kept, whose wool supports a unique original weaving industry. The province is rich in minerals. Gold and silver deposits in particular were already exploited by the Incas. However the Incas’ dominance over the region was only superficial. The many pucarás bear witness that the original inhabitants did not submit easily. The province has good roads and most towns provide good accommodation. It is at present still “undiscovered” by tourists, even the Argentines. Besides the varied landscape another attraction is the colorful fiestas.

Jagüé can only be reached with 4WD vehicles. The Río Bonete valley is particularly rewarding: here are La Rioja’s highest peaks: Cerro Bonete Chico (6872 m) and Monte Pissis (6780 m). The starting point for trips into this area is from Vinchina via Alto Jagüé; buses run to Villa Unión.

Provincial parks and provincial reserves

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Tourist destinations The rewarding tourist spots are the capital La Rioja, Chilecito, Parque Provincial Talampaya, and the thermal spa Termas Santa Teresita. For the mountaineer and the adventurous the area north of Villa Unión is of interest. The new Reserva Provincial de Vicuña y Protección del Ecosistema Laguna Brava east of 699

Parque Provincial Talampaya: Located south from Villa Unión but difficult to reach. It has an extension of 270 000 ha (667 000 acres) and incorporates the Gran Cañon de Talampaya. The whole of the area now comprising the park was once under water, and two strata are now visible, known as the Tarjado and the Talampayo. There are interesting geological formations, as well as rock paintings of now extinct animals which are 6000 years old. Of interest are the sheer cliff formations of 150 m going straight up from the valley floor. In one part of the park you enter a canyon whose walls overhang like balconies. Wind and water erosion has formed some very strange rock formations: El Fraile (The Monk) and El Castillo (The Castle) are just two. At the Puerta de Talampaya is a checkpoint of the provincial tourist office where guides through the park can be hired. Inside the Quebrada de Talampaya there are many rock paintings executed by long-extinct tribes who lived here in pre- Hispanic times. The rocks are of reddish colour. The entrance “La Puerta” to this cañon is 80 m wide. Near the entrance is an archeological area with rock paintings and little cavLa Rioja

CUYO PROVINCES •

ities in the rock surfaces apparently used to grind corn or mix paint. This is a dry area and consequently all riverbeds are dry and used as access roads. Plants are mostly thorn bush shrubs, cactus and trees which survive long dry spells. Many medicinal plants grow in the area and are collected by local people. The fauna consists of guanacos, the occasional puma and vizcachas. The birdlife consists of small mountain parrots, blackbirds, eagles and condors. Can be visited all year round. Nearest accommodation is at Villa Unión in the Hostería Provincial. Talampaya is a showpiece of the earth’s evolution. Wind and water erosion have bared strata upon strata of distant geological eras. The entrance is known as “La Puerta”, opening into a gorge of vertical rock walls. Indigenous tribes have also left their marks with grinding stones and rock paintings at El Paredón. Nearby is a chimney which was made by the waters seeking an escape from the plateau to the valley floor. Many rock formations have been sculpted, some of them ressembling friars or camels. Admission to the park is $3.00. The caretakers organize conducted tours on little trucks; fees vary acording to the length of the tour. Three buses a week travel along RP 26 from Chilecito to San Juan. Best reached with a tour operator from La Rioja taking in Nonogasta, Cuesta de Miranda, and Villa Unión. See Excursions La Rioja on page 715 and from Chilecito on page 707

La Rioja

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Parque Provincial Guasamayo. Located in the Valle de Malanzán between Malanzán and Solca some 185 km south of La Rioja. The valley is formed by the Sierra de Malanzán in the north and the northern spurs of the Pampas mountains. Of interest are the geological formations with reddish rock formed 300 million years ago. Near Solca, Hunquillal, and Casangate are rock paintings representing geometrical patterns. This provincial park can be visited by public transport using Malanzán as a base. Bus services by Empresa Nacate Reserva Provincial de Vicuña y Protección del Ecosistema Laguna Brava. Located west of Vinchina in the altiplano. It has an extension of 405 000 ha and is centered around Laguna Brava in an altiplano desert at 4000 m. The laguna contains brackish water and is a nesting place of two kinds of flamingos; above 3500 m vicuñas can be seen. Inside the reserve there are also archeological sites some of which point to an Incan presence such as a sanctuary on Cerro Veladero. During colonial times there was a cattle trail leading down to Chile via Paso de Comecaballos. For the benefit of the herdsmen fourteen refuges were built. The refuge at Piedras Amarillas can still be used. The best time to visit is between October and April. Best reached with a tour operator from La Rioja or Chilecito. This is a 3–7 day excursion. For trekking information see Excursions from Chilecito on page 707 and from La Rioja on page 715

LA RIOJA It is important to distinguish between Villa Sanagasta and

Aimogasta Population: 8000 Postal code: 5310 @ area code: (03827) Altitude: 830 m

Sañagasta: Villa Sanagasta is near La Rioja, Sañagasta is near Chilecito

AIMOGASTA

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imogasta is located in the pre-cordillera on an irrigated plain intensively used for the cultivation of olive trees. In the nearby village of Arauco is the oldest olive tree in Argentina, planted in the sixteenth century.

A Festivals

Termas Santa Teresita

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Included here is the thermal spa of Termas Santa Teresita and its facilities. Termas Santa Teresita is located 38 km east in the utmost north-eastern corner of the province at an altitude of 700 m. The turnoff from RN 60 is at Villa Mazán, at the service station. Continue north a further 7 km on RP 10. The climate is mild all year round and the modern A.C.A. hotel is very comfortable. It is only a small village with a few scattered homesteads.

Fiesta Nacional del Olivo (National Festival of the Olive): May 14

C Accommodation

Hostería Gran Hotel Arauco, RN 60 KM 1 AEFGJKLPUVY @ 420206 * Hostería Brigitte, 25 de Mayo on the Plaza AELPV @ 420023 • Residencial El Turco, Ave. Santa Rosa 53 @ 420452 Accommodation in Termas Santa Teresita *** Hostería Termas Santa Teresita, RP 11 KM 44 via Villa Mazán ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 420445 $G 2. full board; thermal pool **

S Buses from Aimogasta

There is no central bus terminal. El Cóndor and Gutiérrez have their offices next to each other on the main plaza. • El Cóndor, main plaza ° La Rioja ($5.50; 21 2 hrs) via Aimogasta, Mazán, and Termas Santa Teresita ($4.40); 1 daily ° La Rioja ($5.50; 3 hrs) via Aimogasta, Anjullón, Aminga, and El Huaco ° Tinogasta (3 hrs); 1 daily • Gutiérrez, Alberdi near main plaza @ 420304 ° Catamarca via Aimogasta and Mazán; 1 weekly • Transportes Ortiz, RN 60 @ 420860 • Robledo, Alberdi @ 420861 Buses from Termas Santa Teresita Empresa El Cóndor runs daily buses to La Rioja ($4.40) and Tinogasta in Catamarca Province ($6.60).

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Aimogasta

CUYO PROVINCES U Motoring •

Service station: Y.P.F., southern entrance to Aimogasta. Excellent 24-hour cafeteria

Y Shopping

This is the place for lovers of delicious, huge olives, both green and black.

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Bañados del Pantano: an archeological site 25 km north of Aimogasta; the turnoff is 18m north on RN 60. An area with pre-Hispanic excavations and the remains of a Spanish fort built in the seventeenth century San Fernando del Valle de Catamarca: RN 60 eastwards passes through flat country cultivated mostly with olive trees. 27 km west you enter the narrow gorge of Villa Mazán, which, although only about 5 km long, is quite narrow in some parts and very scenic. Here the Río Salado has carved its way through the sierra. Most of the river’s water is now channeled to provide water to irrigate the olive groves near Villa Mazán. Past the gorge you arrive at Villa Mazán, with an A.C.A. gas station at the turn-off north to Termas Santa Teresita, a thermal resort with a hotel. The turnoff south along the Río Salado brings you back La Rioja. The Río Salado disappears near Bazán in the Desagüe del Río Salado, a marshy plain some 40 km east of La Rioja. You continue on RN 60 east. Chumbicha, off the main road, is the “mandarine capital” of Catamarca. As we follow the Sierra de Ambato northward the mountains grow in

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height until they reach 4400 m. The range is of volcanic origin, attested to by the many thermal springs encountered there. The best known is Termas de Concepción (with an hostería) 36 km before San Fernando del Valle de Catamarca. The Sierra de Ancasti approaches on the eastern side, forming the beautiful Valle Catamarca; here the valley is covered with shrubs and small trees giving shelter to many birds. Just before entering San Fernando there is the Hotel Casino on the right-hand side. See also Accommodation in Catamarca on page 739 Tinogasta in Catamarca Province: After leaving Aimogasta you pass first through olive groves. The road is still sealed but becomes patchy in places, especially near rivers, all of which must be forded, such as Río de los Sauces. The road closely follows the contours of the Sierra de Velasco. At Cerro Negro there is an important crossroad, the intersection with RN 40 which goes right through to Patagonia and finishes north in Jujuy Province near the Bolivian border. It is possible to catch buses here north to Belén and Santa María; check timetables carefully as there is no accommodation here. After Cerro Negro the mountains close in again. This is now the Río Colorado valley, in its upper reaches called Río Abaucán. At this point the mountains on either side are not very high but increase in height rapidly the further north you get. Vineyards start to appear again, and the road becomes very uneven after La Puntilla until you reach Tinogasta

CHAMICAL

Chamical Population: 10 000 Postal code: 5380 @ area code: (03826) Altitude: 467 m Distance from La Rioja: 137 km south on RN 38

Chamical

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hamical, is situated at the intersection of RN 38 and RN 79 in a plain. It is also known as Gobernador Gordillo after the name of now disused railroad station. Nearby is the testing ground for missiles developed by the Argentine air force. Vineyards and orchards surround the town.

B Tourist information

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C Accommodation

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Oficina de Turismo, at the bus terminal

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U Motoring

Hotel Victoria, San Juan 274 AEFGJLPUV @ 422364 Hostería Chamical, Rivadavia 100 AEFGJLPUV @ 42055

S Buses

ABLO and T.A. Sarmiento @ 422872

La Rioja ($6.60; 2 hrs); 3 daily Chilecito ($9.20; 3 hrs); 3 daily Service station: A.C.A.

s Excursions

Chevallier,

Polco: 7 km, a small picturesque village in the foothills of the Sierra de los Llanos. The Fiesta de Polco runs from the last Sunday in September till the first Sunday in October

CHEPES

Chepes Population: 7500 Postal code: 5470 @ area code: (03821) Altitude: 652 m Distance from La Rioja: 255 km south on RP 38, then RP 27, 28, and 29

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hepes, in the southern part of the province, is an important crossroad, situated halfway between Córdoba and San Juan, south of the foothills of the Sierra de Argañaraz. It was founded towards the end of the eighteenth century. Quebracho timber is felled and milled here. On the outskirts of Chepes is a modern A.C.A. tourist complex. Empresa T.A.C. and Riojacor run 1–2 services daily to La Rioja, fare $6.60.

C Accommodation **

s Excursions

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Motel Chepes, J V González near Las Heras AEFGJLPUV @ 420102

U Motoring •

Service station: A.C.A., RN 20. Mechanic on duty

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Chepes Viejo: 9 km north on a dirt road, Chepes Viejo (or “Old Chepes”) has a small museum, Museo de los Caudillos (Museum of the Leaders), which exhibits memorabilia linked to the history of the province.

Chepes

CUYO PROVINCES

CHILECITO

Chilecito Population: 25 000 Postal code: 5360 @ area code: (03825) Altitude: 1075 m Distance from La Rioja: 192 km east on RN 38 then RN 74

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hilecito is located in a wide valley between the Sierra de Velasco and Sierra de Famatina. The Nevado Famatina (6200 m) rises sharply behind the town, its crest snow-covered for part of the year. The climate is pleasant all year round. Chilecito was founded on February 19, 1715 by Don Domingo de Castro

y Bazán, under the name of Villa Santa Rita. The new name, meaning

To Famatina

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CHILECITO To San Juan

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To La Rioja

A Iglesia

10 Residencial Wamatinag 13 Hostería Bel-Sa-Vac 15 Residencial Americano

6 Airline offices

E I

4 Eating out

7 Museo de Chilecito 16 Plaza Santa Rita

C D

$ T

Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino, J V González near Mitre Central Telefónica Delegación de Turismo de Chilecito Banco de la Nación Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 2 8

Hostería Chilecito Hostería Riviera

Chilecito

MARTÍNEZ

IE

12

LIBERTAD

14 $

SAN MARTÍN

A

M

CASTRO BARROS

ZELADA Y DÁVILA 74 40

Key to map

6 E

EL MAESTRO

9 DE JULIO

AZ

R

J. OCAMPO

N

SA

8

PL

9 10 11

25 DE MAYO

B. MITRE

7

POE TA OCA MPO

T. GORDILLO

$

A .MARAS SO

4 3

LA PLATA

CASTRO Y BAZÁN

T

19 DE FEBRERO

D

AVE. PELAGIO LUNA

1

H. YRIGOYEN

PEÑALOZA

C

S. ROMÁN

J.HERNÁNDEZ

SAN FRANCISCO

To Santa Florentina

14

40

3 4

Restaurant Listo El Pollo Restaurant Club Newell’s Old Boys 5 Restaurant El Quincho 9 Restaurant Caprí 11 Cafetería Chaplin 17 Restaurant Club Arabe

704

14 Andesmar

9 Sights

0 Services 1

Bodega Cooperativa La Riojana 6 Regionales Peralta Dávila 12 Banco de la Provincia de la Rioja

CUYO PROVINCES “Little Chile”, reflects the Chilean miners living here after World War I. The period between 1895 and 1905 saw the city’s greatest prosperity, when the cable car was installed to bring the rich ore down from the Mejicana mine. Vichigasta, 34 km south on RN 74, is the center of a flourishing horticultural district. Underground water is used to irrigate the crops. Further south near Catinazo jojoba beans and strawberries are cultivated.

the weather is cool all year round. The valley is intensively cultivated using irrigation, mostly producing walnuts and apples. The town has to a large extent preserved the colonial houses and the narrow streets which go with them. Easter celebrations are very colorful. The large image of Christ venerated in the church of San Pedro is thought to have originated in Peru, from the Cuzco school, in the seventeenth century. The townsfolk are also very artistic; weavers produce ponchos and blankets. There is an A.C.A. service station on RN 40 KM 624. In the local school there is a collection of rock samples found in the mountains around Famatina. Areas of tourist interest include La Greda hydroelectric scheme with a 70 m waterfall. Near Carrizal two streams merge: one is crystal clear and the other of strong ochre-yellow colour, possibly of volcanic origin. Several hills around town can be climbed

Famatina Famatina is a small town of 2000 inhabitants 31 km north in the valley formed by the Sierra de Famatina to the west and the Sierra de Velasco to the east, at an altitude of 1580 m. It is one of the most beautiful and accessible regions of the province. The mountain peaks surrounding the town are high enough to be snowcovered for most of the year. Because of the high altitude (1580 m)

C Accommodation in Chilecito Hosterías

• Hermosina, Castro Barros 178

@

425421

@ @

422201 422977

@

422181

@ @

422804 423419

Hotels Chilecito (A.C.A.), T. Gordillo 101 near Poeta Ocampo ACDEFGJKLPTUVY * Bel-Sa-Vac, 9 de Julio near A.E Dávila AEHKLPTVY * Rivera, Castro Barros 133 AELPV • Nuevo Hotel Bellia, El Maestro 198

***

Residenciales

A Americano, Libertad 68 LP A Wamatinag, 25 de Mayo 37 LP In Galería Victoria near bus terminal

Hospedajes • • • • •

Don Isidro, 19 de Febrero 558 Mary, Florencio Dávila 280 La Mejicana, Pio XII 437 Latino, Juan XXIII 834 Zully, Gdor Motta 750

Accommodation in Famatina *

Hostería Famatina, RN 40 KM 624

Chilecito

EF

705

$F $G $G

2 2 2

$H

2

$H

2

@ @ @ @

423310 423156 424321 423346

$H $H

2 2

@

(3825) 493135

$I

1

CUYO PROVINCES S Buses from Chilecito

The bus terminal is on 19 de Febrero 194 near La Plata. • Ariel, Pasaje H Yrigoyen 294 @ 422161 • Empresa Carhuva, El Maestro near Castro y Bazán ° La Rioja • Empresa Vallecito ° Mendoza via San Agustín de Valle Fértil and San Juan; 1 daily • Expreso Santa Rita @ 424566 ° Cuesta Miranda via Nonogasta; 2 daily 12:00 and 20:00 ° Los Sarmientos via San Miguel, Anguinán, Las Parcelas, Malligasta; 4 daily 06:30–19:00 ° Carrizal via Famatina; 2 daily 06:30 and 12:00 ° La Cuadra via Pituil (colonial church!), Chañarmuyo, Campanas, and Santa Cruz; 1 daily at 18:30 ° Cuesta Miranda via Nonogasta; 2 daily 12:00 and 20:00 ° Los Sarmientos via San Miguel, Anguinán, Las Parcelas, Malligasta; 4 daily 06:30–19:00 ° Tinogasta ($14.50; 6 hrs) via Pituil, Andolucas, San Blas, and Salicas; 1 weekly ° Tinogasta ($11.40; 5 hrs) via Famatina, Campanas, La Cuadra, and El Potrerillo; 2 weekly • General Urquiza/ABLO ° Buenos Aires ($55.00; 18 hrs) via Vichigasta, Patquía, Chamical, Villa de Soto, Cruz del Eje, La Falda, Villa Carlos Paz, Córdoba ($19.00; 8 hrs), and Rosario (14 hrs); 2–3 daily • Inter Rioja, 19 de Febrero 36 @ 422296 ° Anillaco • La Riojana SRL, El Maestro 61 @ 424710 • Riojabus SRL, 25 de Mayo 112 @ 423134 • Riojacor ° La Rioja ($8.40; 3 hrs) via Vichigasta, Los Colorados, and Patquia; 1 daily ° Vinchina ($8.00; 21 2 hrs) via Cuesta Miranda, Piedra Pintada, and Villa Unión ($7.50, 2 hrs); 1–2 daily • T.A.C. ° Mendoza via Villa Unión, San José de Jáchal ($18.70), and San Juan ($24.50); 2 weekly • Transporte Chilecito @ 422781 ° La Rioja ($8.40; 3 hrs) via Vichigasta, Los Colorados, and Patquía; 5 daily Buses from Famatina Expreso Santa Rita runs 4 services daily to Chilecito , 1 hour. Santa Rita also runs two weekly services to Tinogasta in neighboring Catamarca Province, taking 4 or 5 hours depending on the route taken. Services alternate via San Blas and the direct route on RP 11 which is the more scenic route. •

easily. One of them has a cross on top with scenic views over the town and the surrounding district.

B Tourist information

A Festivals

•

•

Chilecito week, celebrating the city’s foundation: starts February 19 in conjunction with Carnival Festivals in Famatina • Colorful Holy Week festivities

Chilecito

Pilgrimages are also held in honour of the infant Jesús de Hualco in December, and the Virgen de Andacollo

•

706

Dirección General de Turismo, José Hernández 62 @ 424888 fax; e-mail: [email protected] Oficina de Turismo de Chilecito, Libertad near Independencia (Profesor Cavero) @ 424978. E-mail:

LA RIOJA &

U Motoring

[email protected]. Maps available

Service stations • A.C.A., El Maestro near 9 de Julio; cafeteria

D Camping •

Costa del Río, Santa Florentina, 6 km along Calle de la Plata; take an Empresa Santa Rita bus

Y Shopping

•

E Eating out

•

Restaurants • Aladino, Castro Barros 80 • Caprí, 25 de Mayo near J V González • Club Arabe, 25 de Mayo 250 near Santa Rosa • Club Newell’s Old Boys, La Plata 123 • El Quincho, J V González 50. Parrilla • El Rancho de Ferrito, Avenida Pelagio B Luna 547 • La Esquina de La Palmera, Timoteo Gordillo 192. Parrilla • Listo El Pollo, Pelagio B. Luna 32 • Pizza Cero, 19 de Febrero 160 • Rancho Grande, 25 de Mayo 88. Parrilla Cafeterías • Bel-sa-vac, Dávila near 9 de Julio • Chaplin, 25 de Mayo 82. Snack-bar • Creysi, Castro Barros 25

p Sightseeing

•

•

•

n Entertainment •

Disco Status, 25 de Mayo near Castro Barros

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, J V González near Mitre Telephone: Central Telefónica, Castro y Bazán 27

L Financial •

•

Regionales Peralta Dávila, El Maestro 90 Cooperativa Bodega La Riojana, La Plata 246

Banco de la Nación, Joaquín V. González near 19 de Febrero @ 422315 Banco de la Provincia de la Rioja, 9 de Julio 62 @ 422711

R Air services

The airport is at Anguinán, some 6 km from town. • Andesmar, El Maestro 73 @ 424656 fax 424661 ° Salta ($185.00; 103 4 hrs)via Córdoba ($75.00; 11 4 hrs), Rosario ($141.00; 7 hrs), and Tucumán ($152.00, 93 4 hrs); Tues and Thurs

Molino de San Francisco (St. Francis’ Mill), also called Museo de Chilecito (Chilecito Museum), J.de Ocampo 63. A colonial building dating back to 1700, which belonged to the founder of the city. For nearly two hundred years it was used as a flour mill. Nowadays it has been converted to a museum exhibiting antique weapons, documents, and weavings. It is also used as an auditorium where dances and plays are staged. Open Tues–Sun 08:00–13:00 and 15:00–19:00 Plaza Santa Rita, corner of B Mitre and Zelada y Dávila. This historic Plaza was the site of the first church to be built in Chilecito Samay Huasi: at San Miguel 3 km from the city center; Expreso Santa Rita buses go past. Samay Huasi was the country retreat of Joaquín V González, founder of La Plata university, and is now a museum. The building is surrounded by parks and orchards, and a path leads up to the hill behind the mansion. The museum has natural history sections; there is an interesting exhibit of beetles and butterflies, including a particularly good essay on the vinchuga beetle, the carrier of Chagas’ disease. There are also well-endowed mineralogy and archeology sections. Open Tues–Sun 08:00–12:00 and 15:00–18:00. You can walk back to the city on a mountain trail across a low hill, emerging near the hospital

s Excursions Tour operators • Viento Blanco Expediciones @ 422171 fax

707

Chilecito

LA RIOJA •

Grupo Jagüé Chilecito @ 422171. Tours to Reserva Provincial de Vicuña y de Protección del ecosistema Laguna Brava Excursions • Villa Unión: RN 40 runs over the Cuesta de Miranda, a mountain pass road. The road over the Cuesta de Miranda follows a narrow stream to Pagancillo, and for much of the way is hewn from the rock. The trip is very picturesque, passing through narrow valleys. See also Villa Unión on page 720 • La Rioja: RN 74 initially makes a long detour southward to circumvent the Sierra de Velasco, only to return northward up the eastern side of the range for an equal distance as RN 38 to La Rioja. At first the valley is very wide, but it narrows considerably near the Sierra de los Colorados. Just 13 km south of Chilecito is Nonogasta, famous for its artesanías or handicrafts, such as those made by the group calling itself Artesanías Marca Huasi. Where the river ends in salty marshes, the valley is also known as Bajo de Santa Elena. Further south, just before arriving at Patquía, is a low rock outcrop of unusual shapes and sizes known as Los Mogotes Colorados, which has been declared a natural monument. Inside this rock labyrinth is a cave called the Cueva del Chacho, which during the Wars of Independence served as a hide-out for General Peñalosa. Also in Los Mogotes are hot springs forming a rock pool, whose temperature is 34°C (90°F). For those interested in visiting the Los Mogotes area I suggest using an early Riojacor or Transporte Chilecito bus from either La Rioja or Chilecito and ask the driver to drop them at the access road to Los Mogotes; from here it is a 5 km walk. You will be able to catch a late afternoon bus to continue your trip. The Sierra de los Colorados interposing between Sierra de Velasco and Sierra de Sanogasta terminates abruptly, and the road emerges onto a wide plain. Following RN 74 south from Patquía for 10 km, you pass the turn-off to the date-palm center of

•

•

•

708

Guayapa. From Patquía RN 38 runs directly northward at first, along the Desagüe de los Colorados, with no side-roads. This plain collects the water from the nearby mountains during spring, but is fairly dry the rest of the year. Shrubs and small trees cover the plain densely and give shelter to a variety of colorful bird life—nearly every tree along the road has at least one bird’s nest. From Talamuyuna onwards the Sierra de Velasco rises visibly as the road runs alongside. Riojacor and Santa Rita have several buses daily. See also La Rioja on page 709 Tambo del Inca: Behind the cemetery. An archeological site, with excavation of pre-Colombian houses, and possibly the remains of an Inca tambo La Mejicana mine, a copper and silver mine, not currently worked. The base station is at Santa Florentina, 6 km west on RP 14. A cable car was installed in 1904 by a German firm. A short taxi ride away, are the ruins of the colonial ore foundries. The former mine offices have been converted to a museum, open 07:00–13:00 and 14:00–18:00 Los Sarmientos: This is a small village and collective name for a string of villages such as Tilimuqui, Malligasta, Anguinán, San Nicolás some 10 km north and east of Chilecito. This is a wine-growing area. In Los Sarmientos itself the main attraction is the Santa Clara chapel, completed in 1764. The massive doors are carved from algarrobo wood. Tilimuqui, a very old township has the remains of a colonial ore foundry and a chapel to the Virgen del Rosario de los Federales. A visit can be made to the Ciudadela “Vino de Sol” bodega. The seventeenth-century chapel at Malligasta 11 km east contains a collection of colonial Indian carvings; several bodegas can be visited. Anguinán; 6 km south-east, was founded in the early 1600s, the first urban center in the area. The church was built in the middle of the seventeenth century. A round trip through these villages can be made with Expreso Santa Rita which has four

Chilecito

LA RIOJA •

•

services daily. This is a 21 2 hrs bus trip, making stopovers would make it a half day trip Guanchín: 19 km west on RP 15. Nearby is an estancia founded by the Jesuits in 1652. Walnuts, quinces, and apples are cultivated. The road from Chilecito climbs a slope with panoramic views. The clear streams offer good fishing. Medicinal plants abound. Expreso Santa Rita buses runs daily services Sañogasta: 16 km south of Guanchín along RP 15 via Los Manzanos. It is located at the beginning of the scenic drive over the Cuesta de Miranda to Villa Unión. The cool climate promotes vast walnut orchards, and the walnut festival in March attracts many visitors. There is a local festival

•

• •

in honour of the patron Saint Sebastián Nonogasta is a typical pre-cordillera village 3 km off the main highway 16 km south on RP 40 at an altitude of 934 m. It has a Jesuit chapel founded in the seventeenth century. Nonogasta is the birthplace of Dr Joaquín V González and the house is still preserved. Bodega Nacari, Bodega El Águila are makers of fine wine and can be visited. There is a gas station. Expreso Santa Rita buses run regularly to Chilecito Famatina: 31 km north on RN 40 and 11. See pages 705 and 706 Parque Provincial Talampaya: Guided tours of the park run by Yafar Turismo leave from San Juan and La Rioja. See also Excursions from La Rioja on page 715

LA RIOJA

La Rioja Population: 130 000 Postal code: 5300 @ area code: (03822) Altitude: 500 m Distances • From Córdoba: 460 km north-west on RN 60 and RN 38 • From San Juan: 446 km north-east on RN 150 and RN 38 • From San Fernando del Valle de Catamarca: 154 km south-west on RN 38

L

a Rioja is located on the eastern side of the Sierra de Velasco, a mountain chain rich in hot mineral springs. The town was founded in 1591 by Spaniards under the command of Juan Ramírez de Velasco pushing down from Peru. The city is the capital of La Rioja Province. Some colonial buildings have survived the disastrous earthquake of 1894. Otherwise, it is a fairly modern city with wide avenues and modern buildings. The commercial district centers around Plaza 25 de Mayo and spreads into Avenida B Mitre and Pelagio B Luna. There are many interesting historical relics from the past, such as

the Convento de Santo Domingo (Convent of St. Dominic). Since the province is a large dry wine producer, there are many of bodegas (vineyards). Most streets are lined with the palo borracho tree, a typical Chaco tree, similar to the Australian bottle tree. Streets change their names as they cross Avenida B Mitre.

709

La Rioja

CUYO PROVINCES

.

AVE

R.

A

LA RIOJA

. AL

EL

L .N

1

V DE

EM

To S.F. del Valle de Catamarca O ZC

To Aimogasta

38

A N U .L A

DO AGU NTE

NV SA

E U Q O .R E AV

To San Martín

DORREGO

GRAL . GÜEMES

22

21

24

23 C

G. PAZ

SANTA FE

DARD

26

O ROC

HA

URQUIZA

REPÚ RE

CORRIENTES

IT 25

To Chilecito

BA

74

T

LL

ÍBA

NO

CÓRDO

ESPAÑA

BULNES

31

DE

IA

BALCARCE 32

ICA

D E S IR IA

A

BOLÍVAR

BL

AL

I

PÚ

B L IC A

ID

EN

33

ARTIGAS

AV

R.DE ESCALADA

DA

EN

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GA

AV

QU

SAN ROMÁN

38

5

P

D

R.V. PEÑALOSA

N

B. JARAMILLO

AVELLANEDA

18 19

8 DE LA VEGA

15 16 17

13

9

A .E. DAVILA

VELEZ SARSFIELD

A

9 DE JULIO

$

BUENOS AIRES

H. YRIGOYEN

29 28 27 ARROS STRO B AVE . CA 30

A AZ E PL 9 D L I O JU

25

20

COPIAPÓ

I

PRES. J.D. PERÓN

CNEL LAGOS

M. MORENO

RIVADAVIA

SAN MARTÍN

AVE. SAN NICO LÁS DE BARI

E

LAMADRID

B

J.V. GONZÁLEZ

12

7 8

A AZ E P L 5 D YO 2 A M

11 10

25 DE MAYO

PELAGIO B. LUNA

BELGRANO

J.B. ALBERDI 3 4 BAZÁ N Y BUST OS 5 6

14

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO

CATAMARCA

JUJUY

1

MO

ICE

8 DE DICIEMBRE

2

38

To Córdoba

Included under Excursions on page 716 are Villa Sanagasta and Patquía and their facilities.

•

A Festivals

The city celebrates many religious festivals which always attract a large number of people. • Fiesta de la Chaya: February; carnival celebrations • Semana de Rioja (Rioja Week): May 20. Commemorates the foundation of the city. Celebrated with great pomp

La Rioja

GOBERNADOR .. P. GORDILLO

NT

E

Río Tajamar

and fireworks, and an exhibition of artesanías Fiesta de San Nicolás, and El Niño Alcalde: From December 31 to January 3. This constitutes a major religious festival. On December 31 at noon there is the encounter of El Niño Alcalde with San Nicolás, the patron saint of the city. The crowning event is when the two processions meet

B Tourist information

•

710

Dirección Provincial de Turismo, Avenida Perón 401 @ 428839 fax

LA RIOJA Key to map A B C D E I P $ T

Catedral, San Nicolás de Bari Casa de Gobierno Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Dirección Provincial de Turismo A.C.A. Banco de La Provincia de La Rioja Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 10 14 15 24 25 27 28 29

•

Residencial Florida Residencial Margarita Hotel Savoy Hotel Plaza Hotel El Libertador Hotel Imperial Residencial Petit Residencial Sumaj Kanki Hotel Talampaya

30 Hotel de Turismo La Rioja 32 Hotel King’s

4 Eating out 2 5

7 13 17 18 21 26 31

Pizzería El Timón Pizzería El Palacio de la Pizza Restaurant Il Gatto Cafetería El Ciervo Restaurant El Pi Restaurant La Casona Restaurant Don Carlos Restaurant El Milagro Restaurant Facundo

5 Entertainment 6 Airline offices

7 Tour operators and car rental 9

9 Sights 3 4 6 19 20 22

8 Southern Winds 12 Aerolneas Argentinas 16 LAPA

Yafar Turismo

23

Museo Arqueológico Inca Huasi Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco Museo Folklórico de La Rioja Museo Histórico de La Rioja Casa de Joaquín V González Former F.C.G.B. rail station. Museo de Bellas Artes O. de La Colina

0 Services

11 Mercado Artesanal 33 Regionales Facundo

•

Eliot Café Bar, San Nicolás de Bari opp Casa de Gobierno • Sorocabana, Galería Sussex 25 de Mayo 75 Eating out outside the city center Restaurants • El Farolito, Avenida Angel Vicente Peñalosa 1100 • Facundo II, Avenida Ramírez de Velasco KM 2. Peña folklórica • Peko’s, Avenida Alem 1500. Parrilla • La Tablita, Avenida San Francisco KM 7

423221. Open Mon–Fri 07:00–21:00. Maps and pamphlets on the tourist attractions of Chilecito and La Rioja are available Dirección de Recursos Naturales Renovables, Rivadavia 499 @ 24324 fax 27213. Information on provincial parks

E Eating out Restaurants • Don Carlos, Avenida Rivadavia 459 • El Milagro, Avenida Presidente Juan D Perón 830 • El Viejo Boulevard, Ortiz de Ocampo 1060. Parrilla • Facundo, F Quiroga 1150. Parrilla • Il Gatto, Pelagio B. Luna 555. International cuisine • l’Stanza, Dorrego 220. Pasta • La Vieja Casona, Avenida Rivadavia 427. International cuisine • Mangiattori, Facundo Quiroga 1145 Pizzería • El Palacio de la Pizza, Avenida Presidente Juan D Perón 356 • El Timón, Copiapó 255

n Entertainment

• • •

Kalai, P B Luna 580. Bowling Casino de Rioja, Remedios de Escalada near Copiapó El Pi, 9 de Julio 97. Peña

I Post and telegraph

• •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Avenida Presidente Juan D Perón 764 Telephones: Telecom, Pelagio B Luna near J V González

L Financial Services

•

Cafeterías • Café La Bolsa, Rivadavia 545 • El Ciervo, J V González 34

•

711

Banco de La Provincia de La Rioja, Avenida Rivadavia 728 @ 430575 Banco de Galicia, San Nicolás de Bari block 600 near 25 de Mayo. ATM

La Rioja

CUYO PROVINCES C Accommodation in La Rioja

During Holy Week celebrations, Semana de Rioja in May, and in July, book hotels in advance. Apart hotels ***

@

Prisma, Buenos Aires 104

421567 fax

Hotels de Turismo La Rioja, Avenida Presidente Juan D Perón 1290 and J.F. Quiroga ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ @ 422005 fax **** King’s, Avenida J.F. Quiroga 1070 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ @ 422122 fax **** Plaza, San Nicolás de Bari 502 near 9 de Julio ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 422127 @ 425215 *** El Libertador, Buenos Aires 253 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 427474 *** Gran Hotel Embajador, San Martín 250 @ 438580 fax ** Mirasol, Rivadavia 941 @ 420760 * Imperial, M. Moreno 345 AELPV @ 422478 fax * Savoy, Roque A Luna 14 AELPV @ 426894/7 fax * Talampaya, Avenida Presidente Juan D Perón 951 AELPV @ 424010 fax LP @ 427577 • Petit, Lagos 427 ****

Residenciales

A Florida, 8 de Diciembre 524 LP B Margarita, Avenida Perón 419 C Sumaj Kanki, Avenida Castro Barros near Lagos

$F

2

$E

2

$D $F

2 2

$G $G

2 2

$G

2

@

426563

$I $I $G

1 1 2

@

425216

$F

2

@

492022

$G

2

Accommodation in Parque Yacampis ***

Motel Yacampis A.C.A., Avenida R de Velazco, KM 3 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

Accommodation in Villa Sanagasta ***

Hostería Achay Sacat Carlos M. Alvarez ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

R Air services from La Rioja

Aeropuerto Capitán Vicente A. Almonacid is 8 km north of town on RP 5. Airlines • Aerolíneas Argentinas Belgrano 63 @ 427355 • Andesmar, San Nicolás de Bari (O) 729 @ 437995 • LAPA, San Nicolás de Bari (O) 516 @ 435197/435281 • Southern Winds, San Nicolás de Bari 731 @ 461717; e-mail: [email protected] Services • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Buenos Aires $80.00–$140.00 Córdoba $40.00–$64.00 Mendoza $105 Rosario $90.00–$130.00 Salta $174.00 San Luis $125.00 Tucumán $142.00

La Rioja

Services 1–2 daily 3 weekly 3 weekly 3 weekly 3 weekly 3 weekly 3 weekly

Duration Airlines 21 2 hrs 1 hour 21 2 hrs 7 hrs 11 hrs 21 4hrs 10 hrs

712

Aerolíneas Argentinas Andesmar, Southern Winds Andesmar Andesmar Andesmar Andesmar Andesmar

LA RIOJA S Buses from La Rioja

The terminal de minibus is at A Dávila 20 @ 422360. The main bus terminal is on España near Artigas, eight blocks south of the city center. Bus companies operating from main bus terminal • A11 Autotransporte San Juan@ 421011/460657 • A16 Bosio, @ 421011 • A23 CACORBA @ 433967 ° Córdoba • A33 T.A. Chevallier @ 422430 • A55 El Cóndor @ 426436 ° Nacate Mon, Wed, Fri 14:00 ° Andolucas; daily at 06:30 ° Aimogasta; 5 weekly 06:30 and 15:15 ° Anjullón; Tues, Sat, Sun 13:50 ° Santa Cruz; Wed, Fri 6:00 and 13:50 ° Pituil; Tues, Thurs, Fri, Sun 06:30 and 15:15 ° Tinogasta ($12.10) via Aimogasta, Mazán, and Termas Santa Teresita; Mon, Wed, Fri 14:00 ° Sanagasta; 1–2 daily 06:40–20:40 ° San Blas de los Sauces ° Chilecito ($8.00; 4 hrs); 4 daily ° Córdoba ° Santiago del Estero via Catamarca and Tucumán • A81 Andesmar @ 422430 ° Mendoza via San Juan ° Jujuy via Catamarca, Tucumán, and Salta • A92 General Urquiza S.R.L., local 9 @ 436272 ° Buenos Aires • A105 Empresa Ortíz @ 431885 • A111 SOCASA @ 435841 • A114 Empresa Vallecito @ 427395 • A124 Expreso El Riojano • A126 Expreso Nacate ° Nacate via Patquía and Malanzán; Tues, Thurs, Sat 12:00 • A131 Expreso Santa Rita @ 421011 ° Chilecito and Famatina ° San Blas de los Sauces • A155 T.A. La Estrella @ 426306 • A199 Riojacor ° Villa Unión via Chilecito ($8.40); 1 daily ° Patquia and Chepes; 1–2 services daily • A211 T.A.C. @ 15662592 • A299 ABLO @ 426444/422872 ° Buenos Aires via Córdoba and Rosario • A311 Empresa Lazo @ 15664508 • A349 Expreso América Sol y Valles @ 421011 • A350 Transporte Arce, @ 420350 ° Vinchina, Villa Unión, Olta, Chilecito, Chamical, Catuna, Milagro, Ulapes; daily services Companies with own terminal • Trans-Bus, 25 de Mayo 368 ° Sanagasta; daily services

713

La Rioja

CUYO PROVINCES Buses from La Rioja — continued Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Buenos Aires $53.00 Córdoba $12.00 Mendoza $29.00 Patquía Pocitos Rosario $47.30 Salta $35.00 Catamarca $7.50 San Juan $23.50 San Luis Tucumán $26.00 Jujuy $38.00 Santa Fe Santiagodel Estero $16.00

Services 8 daily 4 daily 2 daily 1-2 daily 2-3 daily 6 daily 2–3 daily 1–2 daily

Duration 17 hrs 7 hrs 91 2 3

41 2 12 hrs 2-3 daily

8 hrs A16

U Motoring

p Sightseeing

RN 38 to San Fernando del Valle de Catamarca is sealed for most of the way; it runs through flat country. • Service station: A.C.A., Velez Sarsfield near Copiapó; café, maps available

Churches • Catedral San Nicolás de Bari, San Nicolás de Bari near Buenos Aires. Completed in 1899. The remains of Pedro Ignacio de Castro Barros, one of the heroes of the independence wars, rest here • Iglesia y Convento de Santo Domingo (Dominican Church and Convent), Pelagio B Luna, block 300 near Lamadrid). Built in 1623 by Diaguita Indians under the guidance of the Dominicans. The main entrance is carved out of algarrobo wood—a priceless piece of art. Inside the church are two paintings from the colonial period: Nuestra Señora del Rosario and Santo Cristo • Iglesia de San Francisco y Niño Alcalde (Franciscan Church), 25 de Mayo 218: Inside is the orange tree (now dead) which was planted by San Francisco Solano when he arrived in 1592 in La Rioja. The monk’s cell in which he stayed can be visited. The church is the custodian of the painting El Niño Alcalde which is carried through the streets in December as part of a huge religious procession. Museums • Museo Arqueológico Inca Huasi (Inca Huasi Archeological Museum), J B Alberdi 650 has a collection of

T Trains

The F C General M Belgrano station is on Gobernador P Gordillo, opposite Rivadavia. Passenger trains no longer run to Buenos Aires.

Y Shopping

Dates and date liqueurs are locally produced and only obtainable in La Rioja. Since they’re very hard to find even in Buenos Aires, buy them here if you’re interested. • Regionales Facundo, Avenida J F Quiroga 762. Dates and date liqueur • Regionales Su Vinería, 9 de Julio 41. Wines • Mercado Artesanal, Pelagio B Luna 790. In an old senorial house. On exhibit are samples of local craftsmanship: ceramics, silver jewelry, wood carvings, and leather goods. Open Tues–Fri 09:00–12:00 and 15:00–2000, Sat–Sun 09:00–12:00

La Rioja

4

10 hrs 13 hrs 11 hrs 21 2 71 2 hrs

Companies A23 El Rápido, A199 A16, A211 A33 A16, A81,A124 A23 A81 A124 A16, A81 A16, A55, A81, A111 A55 A81, A124, A211 A55, A81, A124 A92, A299

714

LA RIOJA

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• •

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over 10 000 archeological and paleontological items, including funerary urns and wide-bellied jars possibly belonging to the Florescent Era about 100 AD. The ceramics and woven materials are mostly from the Diaguita period. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–13:00 and 16:00–19:00, Sun 09:00–13:00 Museo de Arte Sacro (Museum of Religious Items), Ave. Rivadavia 555 Museo de Bellas Artes O. de La Colina (O. de La Colina Fine Arts Museum), Copiapó 253. Paintings and sculptures by local artists are housed in a restored colonial building. Open Mon–Fri 07:00–14:00 and 14:30–21:30, Sat and Sun 09:00–12:00 Museo de la Ciudad (city Museum), Pelagio B. Luna 250 Museo Folklórico de La Rioja (La Rioja Folk Museum), Pelagio B Luna 811, in an authentic colonial house built in 1850. It gives a good idea what life was like in La Rioja during the last century. Open Tues–Sun 08:00–12:00 and 16:00–20:00 Casa de Joaquín V González, Rivadavia 962, was the home of J V González, one of the great philosophers and literati of Argentina, born in Nonogasta in 1863 Museo Histórico de La Rioja (La Rioja History Museum), Adolfo E Dávila 79. Memorabilia and pictures of La Rioja’s Caudillo past. Open Sat and Sun only

•

•

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s Excursions Tour operators • Grupo Jagüé La Rioja @ 427115 Sr. Jorge Llanos. Tours to Reserva Provincial de Vicuña y de Protección del Ecosistema Laguna Brava • Yafar Turismo, Pelagio B. Luna 352 @ 436152 fax. Run tours to Parque Provincial Talampaya and Valle de la Luna Excursions • Las Padrecitas Jesuit church: 7 km west on RP 26. This is one of the oldest Jesuit adobe churches in the province. Here San Francisco Solano baptized the Indians. By local bus

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715

Dique Los Sauces: 15 km west on RP 1 at the foot of the Sierra de Velazco. Swimming, fishing, water-skiing, and sailing. This is a favorite weekend retreat for the Riojanos or citizens of La Rioja. Club Náutico has a club house here. Municipal buses run here regularly Cerro de la Cruz: 1680 m high. Good views over La Rioja. The 13 km road to the top turns off to the left just before Dique Los Sauces. It is a very bad stretch and before attempting with your own vehicle check with the Policia Caminera (Road Police). Occasionally you can see hang-gliders practice here Parque Yacampis: On Avenida R de Velasco, opposite the Autodrome, 3 km from the city. There is a look-out here from which you can see over the city. In the park is the monument to the Indian. A.C.A. has a tourist complex here Parque Provincial Talampaya: This is a full day’s trip (460 km) visiting en route Patquía and El Chiflón. The turn-off onto RP 26 is 14 km past El Chiflón (or 3 km before Los Baldecitos). Follow the road northward for about 58 km; the turn-off east is well sign-posted. Follow the road for another 14 km to the Puerta de Talampaya, one of nature’s wonders, with narrow canyons and isolated rock columns produced by the erosive forces of wind and water. Regular buses run between La Rioja and San Juan via Patquía, but there are no regular buses between Los Baldecitos and Villa Unión on RP 26. The visit to the reserve can be made from Villa Unión but is difficult, or from Chilecito via Villa Unión. This trip is best made through a tour operator in La Rioja. See also Excursions from Chilecito on page 707 Chilecito: 490 km. This is a full day excursion. Tour operators include a visit to the rock formation Los Mogotes Colorados (with Cueva del Chacho), a visit to a winery in Nonogasta, a short drive up the Cuesta de Miranda over a narrow and winding road, and Samay Huasi

La Rioja

CUYO PROVINCES •

•

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museum outside Chilecito. See also Chilecito on page 707 Ischigualasto (also called Valle de la Luna) in San Juan Province: 500 km. This is a full day trip. The route is the same as for the trip to Talampaya as far as the turn-off before Los Baldecitos. Tour operators sometimes combine the Talampaya trip with the Ischigualasto trip, but this can be rather tiring. The entrance to the park is 17 km north of the turn-off from Los Baldecitos. Tours to this park are also organized from San Juan. Budget travelers can try to hitch a lift from the Baldecitos turn-off. Yafar Turismo runs guided tours. See Excursions from San Agustín del Valle Fértil on page 687 Patquía, altitude 431 m, is located 69 km south of La Rioja on RN 38. On the outskirts of the small town is the Desagüe de los Colorados, an evaporation plain, usually dry, for the rivers coming down from the nearby sierras in spring. Forestry is a flourishing industry. During the Independence Wars this was the base of General Angel Peñalosa (know as “El Chacho”). In Guayapa, 13 km south-west, is one of the biggest date palm plantations in South America; the road to the plantation turns off RN 150, 10 km outside town. On RN 74 leading north to Chilecito there is a turnoff west to Los Mogotes Colorados a reddish weathered rock outcrop. Here is the Cueva del Chacho and also a thermal spring. Patquía celebrates the Fiesta de Santa Rosa de Lima, patron saint of Patquía in August. The bus terminal is situated on the highway at the northern entrance to the town; it has a small cafeteria. Empresa T.A. Chevallier runs three buses daily to La Rioja first 10:00 last 20:00 taking 3 4 hour Villa Sanagasta is a summer holiday resort and weekend retreat of the Riojanos, or citizens of La Rioja. It is situated 31 km north on RP 1 in the Río Huaco valley, altitude 1000 m. It has retained many of its colonial buildings, such as the Capilla de la Virgen de las Mercedes (Chapel of the Virgin of Mercy), and the narrow streets give it a peculiar charm. There

La Rioja

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716

are many vantage points for photography. The hostería also serves as a tourist information office. The nearby Quebrada de Huaco is a good destination for walks and for fishing enthusiasts. Visit also the legendary Cueva de la Salamanca, a cave at the south end of town. The trip from La Rioja via the Cuesta de Huaco is very picturesque its highest point is 1200 m. Villa Sanagasta celebrates two very colorful fiestas: Pilgrimage of the Virgencita India de Sanagasta (Little Indian Virgin of Sanagasta) to La Rioja starts here on the last Friday in September; the Festival del Chayero Sanagasteño is another religious festival celebrated in Febrero. Tour operators make regular trips but this village can also be reached using frequent bus services; public buses continue up the Río Grande Valle to Aminga Tour operators in La Rioja organize trips to the Pueblos de la Costa via the scenic Cuesta de Huaco returning to la Rioja via Aimogasta; it may also include a side trip to Termas Santa Teresita. This includes a 24 km side trip to Señor de la Peña, a huge isolated rock in which the faithful believe they see the image of Christ, Dique Los Sauces, Villa Sanagasta, Cuesta de Huaco (a winding road between Huaco and Las Penas), Chuquis. For those interested in history Chuquis was the birthplace of the Catholic priest Pedro Ignacio de Castro Barros who was a delegate to the Congress of Tucumán in 1816. His house has been restored and is now a museum. In February the village celebrates the Festival de Yacurmana (“Falling waters” in Quechua). Yacurmana is the name of a waterfall nearby. Seven kilometers north of Chuquis is the capital of Castro Barros District, Aminga. Here is the sanctuary of San Nicolás de Bari and also the ruins of a nineteenth century church. Anillaco is 9 km north of Aminga and has certainly benefited from the fact that this is the birthplace of the previous President of Argentina Carlos Menem. In February is the Festival del Alfajor Costeño. Los Molinos 2 km west off the main road

LA RIOJA Whilst it is possible to visit this idyllic area using La Rioja as a base, for those who like to explore the area more fully it is suggested to use Anillaco as a base. This trip can also be made using regular buses (marked “La Costa”). You can stay overnight in the A.C.A. complex in Anillaco — see Accommodation in Anillaco on page 718

has remains of an old mill and also camping facilities. At Anjullón 107 km north of La Rioja is a nineteenth century chapel. In the vicinity of Anjullón some 8 km north on a side road is the village of San Pedro also with an interesting church built completely of rocks; there is a reasonable camping ground. The area is dotted with many vineyards. Another little village with an old church is Santa Cruz some 12 km from Anjullón.

OLTA

Olta Population: 2200 Postal code: 5383 @ area code: (03826) Altitude: 759 m Distance from La Rioja: 172 km south-east on RN 38 and RN 79

O

lta is a small town in the south of the province. It is surrounded by the low mountains of the Sierra de los Quinteros, and is the center of fruit growing area. During the Wars of Independence several battles were fought here. General Angel Vicente Peñalosa (known as “El Chacho”) was killed here on Loma Blanca 3 km from town.

C Accommodation

Olta dam is 5 km from town; there is good fishing. Nearby is the Balneario Vicky campsite and Club de Pesca. There is a gas station.

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Hostería de Turismo, Castro Barros 282 E @ 491206 Residencial Olta, Castro Barros 201 @ Cabina Pública 491123

B Tourist information •

Delegación de Improtur, Castro Barros 260 @ 491117

PUEBLOS DE LA COSTA

Pueblos de la Costa

P

ueblos de la Costa is a collective name for a string of villages which are reached from La Rioja via the Cuesta de Huaco on RP 1. The main villages covered here are Chuquis, Aminga, Anillaco and Anjullón They can also be reached from Aimogasta on RP 1. The road leading north from La Rioja is sealed intermittently as far as Villa Sanagasta. From there

onwards there is little traffic; there are some bad stretches but the scenery is superb with the Sierra de 717

Pueblos de la Costa

CUYO PROVINCES Velasco to the west. Many mountain streams have to be forded. The most scenic section is the part starting from the turnoff to the village of Huaco to Las Peñas, a distance of 17 km. At Pinchas there is a water reservoir which invites to pejerrey fishing. The reservoir catches the water from the permanent little mountain streams coming down from the snow covered mountains. Pinchas is well known for its weaving and basketry. Orchards surround the houses, especially apples and peaches. There is a colorful Festival de la Doma y Folklore held on February 18.

mountain villages. There are no tourist facilities in Aminga.

Anillaco A few kilometers further on you arrive at Anillaco, located off the main highway. Located at an altitude of 1380 m 98 km north of La Rioja, its most striking aspect is the lush green environment. This is Diaguita country, and many nearby valleys still have vestiges of their pre-Hispanic settlements and pukarás. In February the Festival de la Vendimia Costeña (Coastal Grape harvest festival") is held. Accommodation in Anillaco *** Hostería Anillaco, Avenida Coronel Barros Reyes near RP 7 ADEFGJKLPTUVY @ 494064 $G 1; meals $I/J • Hostería Los Amigos, Cnel Nicolás Barros Reyes @ 494107

Chuquis Only a short distance past Pinchas there is a 2 km turnoff east to Chuquis. The backdrop to this village is the Sierra de Velasco which reaches 4000 m. Some mountain streams are of volcanic origin, forming huge waterfalls quite near the village. Chuquis is the birthplace of Pedro Castro Barros who was an independence hero and delegate to the Congreso de Tucumán in 1816. If doing this trip by regular bus you will not have time to visit the Museo del Solar de Castro Barros which exhibits memorabilia of the eighteenth century. There are no tourist facilities in Chuquis.

Anjullón Anjullón is 8 km further north. It has a colonial church claimed to be the oldest in the “Costa”. Magnificent views of the Sierra de Velasco. The villagers cultivate walnut trees and grapes. This is a splendid area for the outdoor enthusiast. The tourist facilities have not been developed yet, but in my opinion a four-star hotel built in this pristine unspoilt area would unbalance this attractive valley. Empresa El Cóndor and Inter Rioja run services on Tues, Sat, and Sun leaving La Rioja at 13:50; buses are marked “Costa”. These buses make many detours to isolated villages which enhances this trip for independent travelers. Some buses continue to Aimogasta.

Aminga The next little town is Aminga. This is the administrative center of the Pueblos de la Costa. There is a major winery here: you are in vineyard country. For outdoor enthusiasts this may be the starting point to explore some of the nearby valleys and

Pueblos de la Costa

718

LA RIOJA

SALICAS

Salicas Population: 600 Postal code: 5327 @ area code: (04827) Altitude: 1000 m Distances From La Rioja: 185 km north on RP 11 • From Tinogasta: 71 km south-east on RN 60 then RN 40 •

S

alicas is located in the foothills west of the Sierra de Velasco. It has a mild climate all year round. Clear mountain streams descend from the Sierra. The surrounding district is orchard country. It is a good hiking area.

U Motoring

The valley is fairly densely populated and there are many picturesque little villages, mostly consisting of adobe huts. The area is served from La Rioja, but there are also buses to Chilecito and Tinogasta in Catamarca Province. In the village of Cuipán is a private museum with a collection of archeological items from the area.

It is 71 km to Tinogasta, with a 7 km unsealed stretch from Salicas. There is a gas station.

s Excursions

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C Accommodation *

Hostería Salicas, RN 40 AELPV @ 497100

S Buses • • •

La Rioja: 1–2 daily; El Cóndor Chilecito: 1 daily; Expreso Santa Rita Tinogasta: 1 weekly; Expreso Santa Rita

San Blas: 5 km south, the capital of the departamento.. The church was built in the seventeenth century and is dedicated to San Blas. In February the Fiesta de San Blas attracts many pilgrims Schaqui: 15 km south. This is the last outpost in the province where the pre-Christian Pachamama cult is still celebrated. In the center of the village is a pucará, or indigenous fortification. The inhabitants are descendants of the Diaguitas

ULAPES

Ulapes Population: 1000 Postal code: 5473 @ area code: (03821) Altitude: 450 m Distance from La Rioja: 291 km south on RN 38 then RN 79

U

lapes is located in the extreme south of the province in fairly dry country. Further south on the border with San Luis Province there are salinas. Of interest only for passing traffic.

719

Ulapes

CUYO PROVINCES C Accommodation

U Motoring

Parador Oásis @ Cabina Pública 491055; basic

The road south to San Luis Province is slightly better than the road north.

VILLA UNIÓN

Villa Unión Population: 3500 Postal code: 5350 @ area code: (03825) Altitude: 1140 m Distances From Chilecito: 106 km west on RN 40, over the Cuesta de Miranda • From San José de Jáchal: 140 km north on RN 40 •

A

small village in a wide valley basin on the Río Bermejo, Villa Unión is the center of a wine-growing and horticultural area. From a vantage point above the village there are panoramic views over Villa Unión and the valley.

s Excursions

Here are included also Villa Castelli and Vinchina and their tourist facilities under the appropriate headings.

Tour operators • Hotel Dayton organizes tours into the altiplano @ 470189 fax Excursions • Parque Provincial Talampaya: 73 km south on RP 26, located 14 km off the main road. Described on page 699; see also Excursions from La Rioja on page 715 and from Chilecito on page 707 • Cuesta de Miranda: This narrow road climbs over a pass to Chilecito, winding through the mountains over a 10 km stretch. At its highest point, 2020 m, is a plaque to the engineer in charge of building this splendid mountain road • Villa Castelli: In the Río Vinchina valley, at the river’s junction with the Río Potrero Grande: At an altitude of 1250 m, it can serve as a modest base for intrepid mountain hikers to explore the nearby valleys with many archeological sites. It is estimated that the area was settled by indigenous tribes by 700 AD. For archeology buffs there are some interesting underground caverns at El Rincón. The fortress is located about 200 m above the valley floor. The 2 km trail to the archeological site starts a short distance north of town past the

A Festivals •

Fiesta del Vinador: Wine festival with the election of a queen, held in March in conjunction with Fiesta de San José

C Accommodation

Hostería Villa Unión, N Dávila 61 AELPV @ 447271 • Hotel Dayton, N. Dávila 109 @ 470229/470182 fax 470189 Accommodation in Vinchina • Parador Vinchina, San Martín Accommodation in Villa Castelli • Residencial Villa Castelli, San Martín *

D Camping •

Predio A.C.A., 4 km south of town near the intersection of RN 40 and RP 26

S Buses • •

Chilecito, T.A.C. and Riojacor have alternately 1 service daily. Catamarca and San Juan, T.A.C. 2 weekly

U Motoring •

Service station: A.C.A., RN 40 KM 480

Villa Unión

720

LA RIOJA

•

archeological site is located about 50 m south of the road to Jagüé about 1 km west of the village. Continuing further a few kilometers the archeological site the road to Jagüé passes through the Quebrada de la Troya: the erosive forces of the torrential waters have carved a narrow gorge through the rock showing the stratas of the rocks. Jagüé 30 km further up is a small village where the road ends. The river divides the village into Alto and Bajo Jagüe. On the April 26 the villagers celebrate the colorful Fiesta de la Virgen de Andacollo. The area around Laguna Brava at 4000 m sports many vapor-spouting geysers. Laguna Brava and the many smaller lagunas in the vicinity abound with large colonies of pink flamingos. In the sky condors circle. Guanacos and the fleet-footed vicuñas graze on the green patches; there are also pumas in the area. The altiplano depression is surrounded by mountain peaks near the 7000 m mark: Cerro Bonete of course, El Piscis (6740 m), and El Veladero (6436 m). The best panoramic views are from El Portezuelo de la Laguna Brava. You are best to use a tour operator either from Chilecito or La Rioja. See Excursions from Chilecito on page 707 and from La Rioja on page 715. Empresa Cotillas runs 2 services weekly to Villa Unión and Chilecito

cemetery. Another interesting trip is to Cerros del Infiernillo some 15 km east of town. North of town on the road to Vinchina there is a ruined homestead dating back to the ninteenth century. Empresa Cotillas runs daily services to Chilecito Vinchina is a small town of 1100 inhabitants at 1480 m, situated near the junction of the Río Jagüé with the Río Grande de Valle Hermoso; from the junction it becomes Río Vinchina. This is the gateway to the unexplored western mountainous part of the province towards the Chilean border. In the village itself are two museums: the Iglesia is located just after the Hotel Provincial and the other museum is on the west side of the main plaza. Lack of tourist facilities makes this area accessible only to the outdoor enthusiast who is prepared to hike in the area. Vinchina is also the starting point for trips to the Cañadón de la Escarcha and to the Reserva Provincial de Vicuña y Protección del Ecosistema Laguna Brava: this is a five-day hike in the altiplano often over 4000 m. A tent and warm gear are necessary. Splendid views of the Cordillera de los Andes including Cerro Bonete the highest mountain of La Rioja Province with a permanent snow cover. Visit “La Estrella”, a pre-Columbian place of worship built of rocks in various colors. This

721

Villa Unión

NORTHWESTERN PROVINCES

The North-Western Provinces encompass those provinces to the far north-west of Buenos Aires; all of them share a border with Chile. A very traditional region, much of its population is of Indian descent. This was the area that around 1470 came under Incan influence. Most of the area is altiplano or puna above the 3000 m mark, and conditions are very inhospitable. The chain of the Andes forming the border with Chile are crowned with peaks rising above 6000 m. The main population centers lie in fertile valleys. 723

CATAMARCA CATAMARCA N–W Catamarca PROVINCES

Plate 16 727 728 728 731 733 738 741 742 747 748 749 750 751 752 754

C

Map of Catamarca Province Map of bus services in Catamarca Province Ancasti ACDehrst Andalgalá ABCDEJKLYSbpqst Antofagasta de la Sierra ABCERSUWastv Belén ABCDEnJKRSUWYZbprstu Catamarca ABCDEnJKLMRSUVWXYZ Map abeopqrstuz Map of city center El Alto CEJKSefs El Rodeo ACDEnISab^elsv Fiambalá CESUWYbprstu La Merced CESs Recreo ABCEnJKUW Santa María CDEnJKUWYSpqst Tinogasta ABCDEJKUSWabpqstu

atamarca Province is situated in the north-west of Argentina. The word “Catamarca” is derived from a Quechua word meaning “Fortress on the Slopes”, and could well refer to any of the many pre-Colombian fortress-towns located in the Sierra de Aconquija.

The province is shaped like a tilted triangle. The border with Chile forms the western side; along the north-eastern side are Salta, Tucumán, and Santiago del Estero; while La Rioja lies along the south-western border. The capital of Catamarca is San Fernando del Valle de Catamarca. Within Catamarca Province its name is

generally abbreviated to “San Fernando”, but outside Catamarca its name is often abbreviated to “Catamarca”, particularly on public transport. Throughout the Travel Companion I refer to the provincial capital as Catamarca. Catamarca is a province of contrasts: to the west along the border with Chile are some of the highest

724

CATAMARCA peaks in the Andean cordillera; to the east are fertile and productive valleys. The northern region is almost completely barren and covered with salt lakes such as Salar de Antofalla, Salina de la Laguna Verde, and, closer to the capital San Fernando, Salar de Pipanaco. Catamarca has a dry climate and because of its low annual rainfall depends heavily on irrigation for its agriculture. Sheep and goats are the predominant farm animals. The province’s mineral wealth is considerable, but the deposits of copper, manganese, gold, and silver are not mined because of the lack of road connections and electricity. The Diaguitas were already using copper and gold to manufacture ornaments and utensils in pre-Incan times; around 1470 they came under Inca domination, and today they are almost extinct. In the smaller villages hand weaving is still practiced. The road network and bus services are adequate, particularly in the eastern part of the province. Towards the Chilean border most roads are unsealed, and rivers are generally crossed by ford. During the spring thaw, roads in these distant regions are sometimes cut. Bus services into neighbouring provinces are good. Only Catamarca city has connecting flights to and from other provinces. Besides the capital, there are no large urban centres in Catamarca. Most towns are connected by roads, but there still are quite a number of outlying villages which can only be reached on horseback. Catamarca Province is still largely unexplored, and in the more

remote areas you may well be the first European visitor. When eating out, be aware that in Catamarca soup is served after the main course.

Tourist destinations Worth a visit & Catamarca Worth a detour & Andalgalá & Belén Very interesting

& Santa María & Tinogasta & Antofagasta de la Sierra and the altiplano

Pre-Hispanic culture Catamarca is considered the cradle of most pre-Hispanic cultures in Argentina. Traces of two cultures which flourished in the paleolithic era—the Ampajango and Ayampín cultures—have been discovered in this region. These people were nomadic hunter-gatherers. The period known as the Early Pottery Era began in 500 BC and lasted until 550 AD, during which time llamas were domesticated and the first urban centers established. The best examples of these settlements are at Cóndor Huasi and Falda Ciénaga in the department of Belén and Alamito in the department of Andalgalá. By the time the Ciénaga culture arose about 200 AD its people were already expert metal workers. From around 600 AD until 900 AD the Aguada culture flourished. The Santa María culture began around 950 AD in the Río Yokavil valley, and soon spread over the whole Calchaqui area, encompassing large areas of Tucumán Province 725

Catamarca

and the southern part of Salta Province. These were very warlike people who in effect led the 1643 uprising against the Spanish. They were defeated and the vanquished population was forcibly re-settled in small groups in Córdoba and Buenos Aires Provinces. In pre-European times the Incas had used a similar strategy against unruly or recently conquered tribes, and the Spanish adopted it from them. In recent years some of the pre-Incan cities which were abandoned in this way have been restored, such as Quilmes in Tucumán Province. Other archaeological sites from the Santa María culture are Loma Rica, La Paya, and Punta de Balasto. As well as being fine potters these people were also expert metallurgists and metal workers, as were the people of the Belén culture which flourished at about the same time. The Nevados del Aconquija ranges contain several pre-Colombian towns, some of which have barely been explored. The best known is Las Chacritas near Buena Vista; there are others in the Río Calchaqui valley.

Departamento de Belén Villa Vil: Located in the Quebrada de Villa Vil at 2722 m 60C (165°F) • Cura Fierro: Located in the Quebrada Villa Vil on the western side of the Sierra de Hualfín at 2300 m. Water temperature is 23C (76°F) . It is supposed to have therapeutic properties against liver and kidney ailments and diabetes • Aguas de Dionisio: 2000 m 24°C (78°F) • La Colpa: 1950 m, 28°C • Nacimientos de Hualfín:At 2300 m, water temperature 37°C (103°F) • Llampa • Ojo Dulce de Choya • Salada de Choya 2300 m 37°C (103°F) •

Departamento de Capayán • Agua de Coneta • Agua Blanca Departamento de Capital El Carrizal El Jumeal

• •

Departamento de Fray Mamertu Esquiú • Aguaditas de San José

Thermal springs There are hundreds of thermal springs in Catamarca Province, most of them with therapeutic properties, but very few with tourist facilities due to being in remote areas. A list of the most important follows.

Departamento de Paclín El Rosario

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Departamento de Santa Rosa Termas Lavalle

•

Departamento de Tinogasta Baño de Higueritas: Located in the Quebrada de Higueritas 15 km from Tinogasta. The water is 23°C (74°F) • The impressive Termas de Fiambalá 1570 m, 58°C (160°F) 16 km from town. The water is

Departamento de Ambato • Agua de la Puerta

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Departamento de Andalgalá • Nacimiento del Río Alumbrera (or “Source of the Alumbrera River”) • Vis-Vis: 1500 m, 38°C (104°F)

Catamarca

726

CATAMARCA

A2, A59 To Antofagasta de la Sierra A312

A2 To Tafi del Valle S an ta María A16, A59 , A94 , A313

N PROVINCE TUCUMÁN

To Tucum án A94

Hualfín A16, A59, A94 A31 2, A313

To Tucum án A16

Buena Vista A16, A31 1

Andalgalá A1 6, A94 A311

A16, A23, A94, A15 1 Fiambal á L on dres

B al cosna

A94, A31 2

A16 A311

San Pedro A94

Las Jun tas A315

Tinogasta A23, A55, A94 A131, A311

La Merced A94

Saujil A1 6, A23 A151

Cerro Negro A16, A23, A55, A31 2

Bañado de Ovanta

To Santiago del Estero

Pomán

S an Bl as A131

S.F. d. V . de Catamarca Aimogas ta

To Chilecito A131

La Puerta

A16, A23, A55, A31 2

PROVINCE SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO

Belén A2 3, A55 A94

A47, A29 7 A314

A16, A23, A49, A81, A92, A155 , A217, A249, A312, A315 Frías A47, A29 7 A314

Hu il lapima Ancas ti A297

PROVINCE LA RIOJA

Icaño A297

Chumbicha

San Ant on io A297

To La Rioja A47, A55, A81, A92, A211, A304

San Mart ín Recreo

A2 A16 A23 A47 A49 A55 A59 A81 A92 A94 A105 A131

El Aconquija Empresa Bosio Cacorba COTAL COTIL El Cóndor E l Indio Andesmar General Urquiza Gutiérrez Empresa Ortiz Santa Rita

A151 A155 A211 A243 A297 A304 A311 A312 A313 A314 A315 A316

La Calera La Estrella T.A .C. Transporte Robledo Empresa Salles T.A . Libertador Empresa Lazo El Antofagasteño Empresa Cayetano La Paz Acevedo e Hijos Cooperativa Catamarca

To Córdoba A55, A92, A15 1, A155

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Catamarca

•

supposed to have therapeutic properties against respiratory ailments and arthritis

Termas de Saujil: 15°C (60°F) , 15 km north of Fiambalá

ANCASTI

Ancasti Postal code: 4701 @ area code: operator connected, dial 19 Distance from Catamarca: 88 km south on RP 13 then RP 2

L

ocated on the eastern side of the Sierra de Ancasti on a wooded plateau, Ancasti was founded by Don Pedro Pablo Acosta in 1735. The town has many orchards, and pejerrey fishing is popular in the nearby Dique Ibizca. Panoramic views of the Sierra de Ancasti to the west. Of tourist interest is the scenic Quebrada de Tipán. To the east the land flattens. The villagers are expert weavers.

A Festivals •

D Camping

•

Festival of the Patron Saint: December 24

C Accommodation •

Camping Villa Ancasti, forested area, water, toilets

s Excursions

•

Hostería de Turismo de Ancasti ALPS @ (0833) 30088/31801 radio telephone $I 1

• •

Lago Ibizca: 20 km south. Swimming and fishing in the dam Jesuit ruins of Ancastillo: 48 km east Anquincila: 10 km north. Archeological site

ANDALGALÁ

Andalgalá Population: 9500 Postal code: 4740 @ Area code: (03835) Altitude: 962 m Distances • From Catamarca via Chumbicha: 250 km north-west on RN 25 then RN 38 • From Catamarca via Singuil: 195 km north-west on RP 1 then RP 65 • From Belén: 85 km east on RP 46 • From Santa María via Capillitas: 140 km south on RP 47. Very scenic but a bad road

L

ocated at the foot of Nevado del Candado (5450 m), Andalgalá’s origins go back to 1658 when General Don Francisco de Nieva y Castilla established a fort here as a base from which to fight rebellious Indians in the region. It is the second largest city in Catamarca. The climate is pleasant throughout the year. The maximum temperature in summer is 42°C (100°F), and Ancasti

the average minimum temperature in winter is 4°C (40°F).

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CATAMARCA Accommodation in El Alamito El Alamito is a small village located 57 km east of town on RP 62. From the intersection with RP 1 at Pampitas there is a string of villages almost merging with each other up to the border with Tucumán Province. • Residencial Águila Huasi Accommodation in Villa de Aconquija Villa de Aconquija is located 55 km east of town on RP 62 • Albergue de Villa Aconquija, dormitory style accommodation BEFL Agroturismo • Morro del Potrero is a small farm in the Sierra de Aconquija on the Río Potrero. It offers accommodation for 8 persons. Activities include hiking, horse-riding, trips to Laguna del Tesoro and excursion to the pre-Hispanic settlement of Pucará del Aconquija. Information: Ing. Catalina Krapp @ 54-3833-430744; e-mail: [email protected]

A variety of wildlife still lives in the nearby mountains: marmots in the higher reaches, mountain cats, vizcachas, condors, mountain turkeys, deer, and the occasional puma. The area produces olive oil and walnuts, and aniseed in Chaquiago 3 km north of Andalgalá. There are rich mineral seams in the Aconquija chain, and in the nearby Minas Capillitas manganese, silver, and copper are mined. The semiprecious stone rhodochrosite (known as “Rosa del Inca”) is also found. Some logging and forestry are carried out.

A Festivals •

Fiesta del Fuerte de Andalgalá (Festival of Andalgalá Fort): Early January. Artistic presentations of dance groups and precious stone display mostly rhodocrosite

B Tourist information •

D Camping

Municipalidad @ 422115

•

C Accommodation

There is a shortage of good accommodation in Andalgalá. • Hotel Provincial de Turismo Andalgalá, Avenida Sarmiento 444 ADFGHPR @ 423024. At the start of RP 62 south • Hotel Aquasol, Rivadavia Norte ADEPRT @ 422615 B Residencial Galileo, Nuñez del Prado 164 near López L @ 422247 B Residencial Plaza, Belgrano 635 L @ 422351

Autocamping Municipal Villa del Parque (near La Usina), is 3 km north of town on the banks of the Río Andalgalá, which flows all year round. To get to the grounds, go past the water treatment plant, and continue into the foothills of the Nevado del Candado

E Eating out

• • •

Pizzería Cuatro Ases, Barcena near Belgrano Restaurant Club Social Andalgalá, Belgrano Sud 650 Restaurant La Terminal, Barcena between San Martín and Rivadavia

S Buses from Andalgalá

The bus terminal is in Barcena Oeste. • Empresa Bosio ° Catamarca ($15.00; 6 hrs) via Saujil, Pomán and Chumbicha ° Santa María ($16.50; 7 hrs) via Belén • Empresa Gutiérrez, San Martín @ 422197 ° Tinogasta ($13.20; 51 2 hrs) via Belén ($5.50; 21 2 hrs) and Londres ($9.90; 31 2 hrs); 1 daily ° Tucumán ($13.20; 71 2 hrs)via Alpachiri and Concepción; 1 daily • Empresa Lazo ° Catamarca ($15.00; 6 hrs) via Singuil and La Puerta; 1 daily

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Andalgalá

• • •

Restaurant Zorba, Nuñez del Prado 46 Cafetería El Aconquija, Pérez de Zurita near Belgrano Cafetería Alamo, Belgrano block 700

•

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Rivadavia near Mercado Telephone: Telecom, Pérez de Zurita between Rivadavia and H. Yrigoyen

L Financial •

•

Banco de La Nación Argentina, San Martín near Zurita

Y Shopping

The best buys are cut rhodochrosites (semiprecious stones), carvings made from cardon wood and woven textiles and carpets. • Kiosco Cachi, Barcena near San Martín • Salón Municipal de Artesanías, Belgrano near Mercado Shopping in Chaquiago Chaquiago is located 4 km north on RP 47. • Establecimiento Incaico “El Potrero Chaquiago”

p Sightseeing •

Museo Arqueologico Provincial (Provincial Archaeology Museum), San Martín Sur 110 (on the south side of the town center, corner of Pérez de Zurita). This museum contains many items from the pre-Colombian cultures which flourished in the area. The periods of Ciénaga, Aguada, Belén and Santa María are well represented

s Excursions

This area is very mountainous, and ideal for hiking. There are many thermal springs in the surrounding valleys; also archeological sites. • Six kilometers north of Andalgalá past the village of Chaquiago in the foothills of the Sierra de las Capillitas are the remains of an Inca establishment called Potrero Incaico Chaquiago. It is believed that the three buildings were part of a metallurgical center built in the late 15th Andalgalá

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century. This can be done as a day hike from Andalgalá Aconquija: 60 km east on RP 48. This is a scenic route to Tucumán Province over the Cuesta del Clavillo, which at its highest point is 1922 m. From the village guides will bring you to the Pucará de Aconquija, a large pre-Hispanic fortified village built in a very strategic position. The pucará is at an altitude of 1800 m. Building material is loose rocks without mortar. Nearby funerary urns were found To Belén: The road from Andalgalá to Belén becomes a dirt road soon after leaving town. For most of the way it skirts the edge of the mountain range to the north, and the Salar de Pipanaco. All river crossings are by ford and roads may be cut off when the rivers flood during spring. The mountains are covered in shrubs. A signpost indicates the turn-off into the Valle Amanao, in the upper part of which are hot springs. Springs such as these are common throughout these ranges, most of them being in the vicinity of the Farellón Negro copper mine. As the road follows the edge of the mountain range the slopes become bare, with only a few cacti surviving on the hills. Small armadillos can be seen hiding as the bus approaches. Near the Río Pozo the road climbs a small pass known as Cuesta de Belén, at an elevation of 1140 m, where eagles live. Descending again into flat country the road fords many small rivers which emerge from the mountains only to disappear into the Salar de Pipanaco. In the distance the Sierra de Belén and the Sierra de Fiambalá come into view. Just before La Puntilla the sealed road starts again, more farm houses appear, and as a result of extensive irrigation the countryside turns green again. Almost abruptly the road reaches the bridge crossing over the Río Belén. Here the valley is very wide, and the town of Belén is located on the western bank of the river. A huge statue of the Virgin is erected on a hill overlooking the town. See also Belén on page 733

CATAMARCA •

•

To Capillitas: 54 km north. A large mining camp, formerly run by the military, Capillitas is one of the few places where the semiprecious stone rhodochrosite is found. It is possible to visit the mine, but authorization must be obtained from the Dirección General de Fabricaciones Militares. Not far from Capillitas are the hot springs of Choya Ojo Dulce, which emerge from the ground at a temperature of 19°C (68°F). There are no tourist facilities here. Altitude 1300 m Valle Amanao: The turnoff into the valley is 18 km west. This valley is of interest to mountain hikers. There are crystal clear mountain streams

• •

•

rushing down the mountains only to disappear into the Salar Pipanaco once outside the valley. There are many hot springs about 14 km past Amanao, as well as further up the valley Aguas Amarillas (“Yellow Water”): These are mineral springs in the Cañon Aguas Amarillas (3000 m) The following mountain passes (“cuestas”) are within easy reach of Andalgalá: La Chilca (1933 m), El Clavillo (1846 m), and Minas Capillitas (3100 m) Other worthwhile excursions are into the Cañon Chilca, and to El Potrero de Santa Lucia

ANTOFAGASTA DE LA SIERRA

Antofagasta de la Sierra Population: 400 Postal code: 4705 @ Area code: operator connected, dial 19 Altitude: 3440 m Distance from Catamarca: 595 km north-west

A

ntofagasta de la Sierra is located on the Río Punillo in the altiplano. It is the main township of the north-west, and in one of the most underdeveloped regions of Catamarca, if not Argentina. Tourists with cardiac problems should consult a doctor prior to making this trip.

The landscape around Antofagasta de la Sierra is dotted with salt lakes and there are many peaks over 6000 m. You can see pink flamingos on the salt lakes at certain times of the year. In the surrounding countryside guanaco, vicuñas, chinchillas, and foxes can also be spotted. The gold in the surrounding hills had already been mined before the Spanish arrived. This region is sparsely populated. Agriculture here is restricted to growing potatoes and some maize, and raising herds of alpaca and sheep. This region was added to Catamarca by ministerial decree in

1943, when the previous Territorio de los Andes was dissolved and divided between the provinces of Catamarca and Salta. There are deposits of onyx, sulfur, and mica in the area, yet only a few mines are operating. The Mina Inca-Huasi is one such mine, extracting gold. There are also extensive salt lakes, most of which are only partially filled. Salar del Hombre Muerto and Salar de Antofalla are two examples. Most of the local rivers disappear into these salt lakes. The inhabitants are descendants of the Diaguitas and speak a colloquial Spanish of their own. Although devout Catholics they see no

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Antofagasta de la Sierra

be hired from Catalino Soriano, Jesús Vázquez, or Antolín Ramos

contradiction in making offerings to their ancestral gods such as Pachamama, the earth goddess. Their dialect and customs distinguish them from the rest of the Catamarqueños, and make them more akin to their cousins in the altiplano in neighboring Salta, Jujuy, and even Bolivia. The archeological heritage of this part of Argentina is considerable, and traces of life from the earliest stone-age period right through to the last days of the Inca empire have been found. The remoteness of the region has certainly helped to preserve most of these sites, most of which are inaccessible to the average tourist. Facilities here are very basic but the villagers will help you in every possible way.

Tour guides in El Peñón El Peñón is located 60 km south of Antofagasta. It is different from a typical altiplano village as it has a few trees; the villagers even grow apples. • Carmelo Guzmán

C Accommodation Accommodation in Antofagasta de la Sierra • Hostería Municipal 12 beds • Residencial La Florida 10 beds • Familia Rodríguez 4 beds; Graciela de Rodríguez also cooks meals Accommodation in El Peñón • Carmelo Guzmán, 6 beds Accommodation in Antofalla • Familia Antolín Ramos, 6 beds; also restaurant

E Eating out

Most hospedajes also serve simple food for their lodgers. • El Puñeno

A Festivals •

Fería Ganadera y Artesanal de la Puna (Puna Livestock and Handicrafts Fair) March; attended by Diaguitas from the altiplano, a very colorful fiesta; very few tourists

R Air services

The town is linked with the provincial capital by two services per week. See Air services from Catamarca on page 744.

S Buses

B Tour guides

There are no bus services between Antofagasta de la Sierra and San Antonio de los Cobres in Salta Province. Empresa El Antofagasteño has one weekly bus service to and from Catamarca via Aimogasta and Belén; @ (03833) 433294. From Belén to Antofagasta de la Sierra is an arduous but scenic trip.

This area is at 3400–5000 m altitude. It is not advisable to go on trips on your own: always hire a guide if venturing off the RP 43, the “main road”, even if you have your own 4WD or make short trips. Take warm clothes — night temperatures are below freezing. Consumption of gas increases due to difficult terrain and the high altitude so take plenty of spare with you. There are no gas stations between El Eje on RN 40 and Antofagasta de la Sierra, a distance of 560 km. The tourist office also recommends two spare tyres. Advise the local police post where you are going. Police with radio communications are located in Tinogasta, Antofagasta, Barranca Larga, and El Peñón. Tour guides in Antofagasta • Arqueólogo Daniel Olivera, Pedro Rodríguez, Adrián Fabián; horses can Antofagasta de la Sierra

U Motoring

•

Service station: Y.P.F.

a Sport

•

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Fishing: There is good trout fishing in the Río Punilla and Río Calacaste. Trout up to 4 kg are not unusual

CATAMARCA s Excursions

Areas of interest near Antofagasta • Some 4 km south of town is Laguna La Alumbrera at the foot of Volcán Alumbrera and Volcán Antofagasta. Both volcanoes can easily be climbed to take pictures of the altiplano. Nearby is the Pucará de la Alumbrera and the Ruinas del Coyparcito. The pucará appears to be an Inca tambo-cum-administration center and is well preserved. Coyparcito is an indigenous pre-Colombian village with a cemetery but not so well preserved • Antofalla: Located on Salar de Antofalla west of RP 43. It is the starting point for trips to Volcán Antofalla (6409 m). The villagers live off llamas and sheep. Nearby is an old Jesuit gold-crushing mill. Following the Salar Antofalla further south you see the perfect cone of Volcán El Peinado. Going northwards you arrive at Tebeniche, a large indigenous settlement

Areas of interest before Antofagasta • Reserva Natural Laguna Blanca: Located in the pre-puna 100 km south of Antofagasta de la Sierra about 10 km east of RP 43. It covers an area of 973 000 ha, most of it above 3000 m. It was created to protect the habitat of vicuñas and flamingos. The area is classified as high-altitude desert. Most rain falls in summer, and winters are usually dry and extremely cold, with isolated snowfalls and strong winds. The picturesque village is located on the north side of the laguna; its villagers are herdsmen, mostly of llamas • El Peñón: 60 km south is a small altiplano village, the starting point for several excursions off the main road: Laguna Carachipampa and Volcán Carachipampa 14 km west of the small settlement

BELÉN

Belén Population: 8500 Postal code: 4750 @ area code: (03835) Altitude: 1240 m Distances • From Andalgalá: 85 km west on RP 46 • From Santa María: 177 km south-west on RN 40

B

elén is situated just inside the Cañon Belén, where the Río Belén emerges from the mountains and dissipates in the Salar de Pipanaco. The first foundation in the early 1600 was abandoned due to the uprising of the Diaguitas. It was re-founded in 1681 by the priest Bartolomé de Olmos y Aguilera. Overlooking the town is a 15 m statue of Nuestra Señora de Belén (Our Lady of Belén). From here there are views over the city, the gorge, and the beginning of the salt flats, where the river first splits up into smaller rivulets before disappearing. The surrounding district produces wine, pepper, and aniseed.

The abundance of water from both rivers and irrigation makes this a lush area. Roads in the Cañon Belén may be cut off temporarily during the wet season in January and February. The villagers are well known for their weaving skills. Belén is a good base to explore this archeological area. 733

Belén

Festivals in Londres • Festival Provincial de la Nuez (Provincial Walnut Festival) February

Londres Londres is located on the Río Quimivil 15 km south of Belén on RP 3. This is the second oldest town in Argentina, founded in 1558 by Juan Pérez de Zurita, to celebrate the marriage of Phillip II to Mary Tudor in 1554. This first foundation was at the site of an Incan administration center and was to be the new provincial capital. Three years later it was destroyed by Calchaqui warriors and refounded four kilometers further down. In 1636 the great Calchaqui uprising began under their leader Chelemín. He laid siege to Londres and cut the town’s water supply dating from Incan times. The town was abandoned but Chelendín was caught and quartered. Artefacts of the early Belén culture have been discovered in the many archaeological sites in the area. El Shincal the Incan administration center was rediscovered in 1901. It is assumed that El Shincal was founded around 1470 by Topak Inca and had about 800 permanent inhabitants. The area was by then an important Diaguita metallurgical center: gold, copper, tin, and silver were mined in the Sierras de Quimivil and Belén. The Incan site and the nearby agricultural terraces are in the process of being reconstructed. Shincal is a 40-minute walk from the village but there is also a local bus ($1.50); for directions check with the police or municipal offices. Nowadays Londres is a center of walnut cultivation.

B Tourist information

•

C Accommodation

•

Hotel de Turismo Belén, Belgrano near Cubas @ 461501 $H 2 • Hotel Samaj, Urquiza 349 @ 461320 $G 2 • Hotel Doña Pilar, Lavalle 462 @ 461235 $H 1 • Residencial Gómez, Calchaquí 213 @ 461388 $H 2 Accommodation in Londres Agroturismo • Estancia La Casona is located approximately 18 km south of Belén. It offers accommodation and all meals for 6 persons. Activities include hiking, excursion to the archeological site of Shincal. for further information contact Ing. Catalina Krapp, e-mail: [email protected]

D Camping

•

Camping La Quebrada, thermal springs Camping in Londres • Camping Municipal El Molino, 4 km outside town on Río Quimivil. Kiosk only open in summer

E Eating out

• • • • • •

A Festivals •

Fiesta Nuestra Señora de Belén (Festival of Our Lady of Belén): December 20 to January 6

Belén

Oficina de Turismo, General Roca @ 461304

Restaurant El Amigazo, General Roca 163 Restaurant El Unico, General Roca 315 near Sarmiento. Parrilla Restaurant La Farola, Belgrano 56 Restaurant Sorrento, Belgrano 250. Pizzeria Restaurant La Terminal, Sarmiento near Rivadavia. Open daily until 01:00 Restaurant Los Amigos, San Martín 325

Eating out in Londres • Cafetería La Tranquera, near Plaza Colombres

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CATAMARCA S Buses from Belén

The bus terminal is on the corner of Sarmiento and Rivadavia. • Cacorba @ 461517 ° Catamarca via Andalgalá ($5.50; 21 2 hrs), Pomán (4 hrs), Chumbicha, and Concepción de Angasti ($15.80; 8 hrs); 1 daily • El Antofagasteño ° Antofagasta de la Sierra ($26.00; 12 hrs) via Hualfín 2 hrs ° Catamarca ($17.50; 6 hrs) via Andalgalá ($5.50; 21 2 hrs) and Aimogasta ; 1 weekly • Empresa Bosio ° Santa María ($11.40) • Empresa Gutiérrez, Rivadavia @ 461814 ° Tucumán ($18.70) via Andalgalá ($5.50; 21 2 hrs), Las Estancias; 1 daily ° Tinogasta ($7.50; 3 hrs) via Londres ($1.10 1 2 hour), Cuesta de Zapata; a scenic trip: see Excursions below • Rubimar ° Catamarca via Andalgalá ($5.50; 21 2 hrs)

n Entertainment •

•

Montana Disco, Urquiza near General Paz Salamanca Disco Pub, Belgrano near Urquiza

•

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, San Martín 543 Telephone: Cooperativa Telefónica de Belén Ltda, Rivadavia 325

R Air services

•

The airport is 8 km south of town, halfway to Londres. Empresa ALTA uses small aircraft.

s Excursions

U Motoring

•

Y Shopping

•

RN 40 south to Tinogasta, via Londres and Cerro Negro, has some bad spots. • Service station: Y.P.F. Belén is the home of traditional Catamarcan weaving. This art has been handed down for generations from mother to daughter. Materials used include the wool from sheep, alpaca, and vicuña. • Casa El Coyita, Belgrano 267 • El Poncho, San Martín 290

•

p Sightseeing •

also a good place to obtain information on archeological sites in the area. Besides the archeological section there is also a section on the colonial period Nuestra Señora de Belén (Our Lady of Belén): A statue on the top of Cerro Tiro, 450 m above the city. There are splendid views over the city and valley from here: you can see the river breaking up into little streams just south of the city and disappearing into the sand Bodega Don Juan, San Martin 498. A commercial wine cellar

Museo Provincial Cóndor Huasi, Lavalle near Rivadavia. On exhibition here are many fine relics of the ancient Belén culture which once thrived at nearby Londres. This is 735

Diversionary dam: Located a few kilometers north of the city, in the gorge. The water redirected by this dam is used to irrigate the plains to the south and east of Belén Londres: There are six bus services Mon–Sat to and from Belén. Fewer services on Sun. The first bus leaves at 06:30 Tinogasta via Londres and Cuesta de Zapata, a scenic bus trip (see Buses above): Past Londres the road initially follows the edge of the Salar de Pipanaco. The road gradually climbs to negotiate the Cuesta de Zapata with vistas to the south-east of the Sierras de Vinquis reaching nearly 3000 m; to the west the best views of the Sierra de Fiambalá as the road descends into the Río Las Lajas valley: Cerro La Yarreta is the highest peak

Belén

• •

spring thaw in the mountains the roads are often flooded and cut off. After El Eje the road winds down to the level of the river bed. About 9 km past this junction on the road to Santa María, is Hualfín. Hualfín is a small village of about 900 inhabitants with a very old church dedicated to the Virgen del Rosario (Virgin of the Rosary). It is 61 km north of Belén on RN 40 and 117 km south-west of Santa María on RN 40; south to Belén and north to Santa María is a dirt road, and all rivers are crossed by fords. There are many thermal springs in this area, some of which are within walking distance of the village. Iglesia de la Virgen del Rosario (Church of the Virgin of the Rosary). Coming from Belén, this quaint church is on the left, built on a small hill. Unfortunately a large and ugly building has been constructed right next to the church; it is virtually impossible to exclude this building when photographing the church. There is a small snack bar near the old church and bus stop, and only private accommodation is available. There is an A.C.A. service station with a cafeteria here. Camping Municipal near the thermal springs has toilets but is basic. Hualfín is also the site of important finds from the pre-Colombian era. One of the biggest mining ventures in the province is in Farellón Negro, 38 km west. Manganese, silver, and gold are mined. El Antofagasteño and Bosio have three services weekly to and from Belén taking 2 hours. El Antofagasteño goes up the altiplano to Antofagasta de la Sierra: at least 10 hours. Cayetano runs services Mon, Wed and Fri to Santa María taking three hours. Beyond Hualfín the Campo Arenal (“Sandy Field”) starts. Looking east across this huge flat valley basin, it is possible to get splendid views of the towering Sierra de Aconquija mountain range, whose peaks reach over 5450 m. 13 km past Hualfín is a road junction: to the west is a 3 km access road to the thermal springs of Los Nacimientos (no tourist facilities), and to the east is the turn-off to Los

in this mountain chain with over 4400 m Gruta de la Virgen (Virgin’s Grotto): A 20-minute walk north of town Santa María via Hualfín: RP 40. The road is unsealed until just before Santa María. A few kilometers outside Belén the narrow and beautiful Cañon Belén begins. The road follows the western side of the river and gradually winds uphill. At KM 800 is the Gruta de la Virgen (Virgin’s Grotto). From here on the scenery becomes very picturesque as the mountains close in and leave just enough room for the river and the road. The valley widens again just before San José, where a rapid river coming down from the Cerro El Mojón massif joins the Río Belén. This river can be forded, a distance of about 880 m, though it may not be fordable during the spring thaw between September and November. Across the river is the turn-off west to Cóndor Huasi, whose predominately Indian population is descended from the Diaguitas. For the hardy hiker a walk to the thermal springs located further up an eastern tributary nearby may be rewarding, but it is definitely only accessible to the average back-packer. At KM 816 the bridge crossing the river has been washed away. This region, with its huge windmills, is known as La Ciénaga (”The Swamp”). From here onwards the mountains recede and the road meanders through undulating country, occasionally fording small streams. In the north the Sierra Chango Real comes into view. Just before the village of San Fernando there is a small pass to negotiate before descending to the village. The peak to the west which has been visible for most of the trip is Cerro Morado. At 4920 m it is snowcovered all year round. The landscape changes at this lower altitude to savannah country, densely covered with grass, but with few trees. After the ford over the Río El Bolsón the country becomes bare again and is severely eroded. The Río Belén here is only a small stream, although the river bed is still very wide; during the

Belén

736

CATAMARCA

•

Farellones mines. Other thermal springs in the Hualfín area include: Fuente de Cura Fierro (1400 m), which has strongly alkaline water, and produces a good table water; and La Colpa (1190 m), which has moderately warm bicarbonate-alkaline water. For the fit and experienced mountain hiker it is possible to make a three-day hike from Farellón Negro through the Valle Amanao to Andalgalá. Buy your supplies in Andalgalá or Belén. On the walk look for unusual rocks: they may be rhodochrosites or “Rosa del Inca”, a semiprecious stone Continuing on RN 40 there is a valley junction where the fast flowing Río Chango Real is forded; this river starts at Cerro Laguna Blanca, and flows through the very pretty Río Chango valley. Almost imperceptibly the valley rises to form a watershed between the Río Santa María and the Río Belén. Campo de Arenal further north is known as Campos de los Pozos (or “Field of Wells”) because of the many bores which tap the underground water there. From KM 883 the road descends gently and the valley becomes the intersection of several valleys. At Guanacoyacu the turn-off to the left leads to Aguas Amarillas. The plains become grassy again here. After entering the Río Santa María valley, the road veers to the east: here the Sierra de Quilmes starts. The road follows the eastern side of the river as far as Santa María, fording numerous streams along the way. As the Río Santa María valley begins to narrow the area becomes more lush. Just before Punta de Balasto is a junction with the Capillitas road leading to Andalgalá—a rough but very scenic drive. From Punta de Balasto onwards the valley is densely populated

•

•

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and there is a continuous string of villages until the town of Santa María. See also Santa María on page 752 La Ciénaga: The turnoff from RN 40 is 15 km north of Belén then turn west. You enter an area which is dotted with many small villages in the quebradas dominated in the west by Cerro El Mojón, 4673 m. La Ciénaga is an important archeological site. Through the gorge at 1150 m are thermal springs with a temperature of 30°C (80°F). There is a bus service from Belén To Antofagasta de la Sierra: At El Eje, 52 km north of Belén, is the turn-off to Antofagasta de la Sierra. You are leaving now RN 40 and turn into RP 43. The trip to Antofagasta de la Sierra is a long and arduous one up into the Argentine altiplano, a bleak and arid region, sparsely populated by descendants of the Diaguita Indians. The turn-off is well sign-posted; El Antofagasteño runs one weekly service from Catamarca via Belén. There is no bus service beyond Antofagasta de la Sierra. The adventurous with their own transport can do the complete trip over the altiplano, to Salta, via San Antonio de los Cobres. The first village after the turnoff is Puerta de Corral Quemado. Gas is available in Hualfín and Antofagasta de la Sierra. This is a gruelling 600 km stretch, most of it above 3000 m, with freezing nights. Before undertaking this trip check with bus drivers at Belén about road conditions to Antofagasta de la Sierra, and again with the locals at Antofagasta de la Sierra before continuing further north: the road to Antofagasta de la Sierra is occasionally cut during spring. There are archeological sites en route at Laguna Blanca and Falda Ciénaga. See Antofagasta de la Sierra on page 731.

Belén

CATAMARCA

Catamarca Population: 113 000 Postal code: 4700 @ area code: (03833) Altitude: 520 m Distances From La Rioja: 153 km north-east on RN 38 • From San Miguel de Tucumán: 240 km south on RN 38 •

C

atamarca is located in a large fertile valley formed by the Sierra de Ambato in the west and the Sierra de Ancasti in the east.

There were two attempts to establish a provincial capital elsewhere before the site of the present-day Catamarca was chosen. In 1558 Juan Pérez de Zurita founded Londres in the Valle Quimivil. This was not a success, however, and a second attempt to re-establish Londres as the capital in 1591 by Ramírez Velazco failed also. The present-day Catamarca was founded in 1683 by Don Fernando Maté de la Luna. Within the Province of Catamarca the name of this city is generally abbreviated to “San Fernando”, but outside the province its name is often abbreviated to “Catamarca”, particularly on public transport. Catamarca is the provincial capital. Its wide avenues give the city a charm that is reminiscent of colonial days. It is laid out in the conventional square pattern, with the hub of town being Plaza 25 de Mayo. There are numerous old churches and museums, and the city has a rich cultural life. Tourist facilities are good, with many first-class hotels and open-air coffee shops. For those interested in night life there is a casino, and several night-clubs and discos. Parque Adan Quiroga is a large park in the center of town.

Catamarca

The climate is one of Catamarca’s attractions for visitors: it is mild all year round. There is some rain in October, and during July and August there is a strong, dry mountain wind, called the zonda. Rivadavia is a pedestrian mall between San Martín and Mota Botello. Also included under Excursions are the small towns of Chumbicha and Pomán with their facilities under appropriate headings.

A Festivals

•

•

•

•

738

Fiesta Nuestra Señora del Valle (Festival of Our Lady of the Valley): 15 days after Easter. Culminates in a solemn procession by the pilgrims to the La Gruta Sanctuary Festival del Poncho: July. The main events are held on the plaza bounded by General Roca, Avenida Virgen del Valle and Avenida Colón. There are exhibitions of handicrafts, and four nights of Andean music with open-air peñas, featuring groups of local folk musicians and dancers Fiesta Nuestra Señora del Valle (Festival of Our Lady of the Valley): November 29 to December 8. The festival culminates in a large procession around Plaza 25 de Mayo Festival Provincial de Doma y Folklore (Horse breaking and traditional

CATAMARCA C Accommodation in Catamarca Hotels ****

**** *** *** *** *** *** ** * * *

Casino Catamarca, Pasaje Carman between República and Esquiú ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ E-mail: [email protected] @ 430891 fax 15% cash discount Leo III, Sarmiento 727 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 431091 @ 432080 Ancasti, Sarmiento 520 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 431464 fax Arenales, Sarmiento 542 ACDEFGJKLPRTUVY @ 430307 fax Grand Hotel, Camilo Melet 41 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: [email protected] @ 426715 fax Inti Huasi, República 299 near Junín ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 435705 Pucará, Caseros 501 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 430688 fax Suma Huasi, Sarmiento 541 AEFGJLPUV @ 435699 Fax 432595/9 Colonial, República 802 AELPV @ 423502 fax Comodoro, República 855 LP Shared bathroom cheaper @ 423490 fax Sol, Salta 1141 AELPV @ 430803 fax

Residenciales

A Plaza, Rivadavia 578 LP B Avenida, Güemes 754 L Near bus terminal; shared bathroom cheaper B Catamarca, Güemes 841 L Near bus terminal B Delgado, San Martín 788 L B Esquiú, Esquiú 365 L B Yunka Suma, Segura 1255 L C Hospedaje El Peregrino, Sarmiento 653

Accommodation on RN 38 south at La Viñita • Hotel Sussex, ADLP

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Accommodation in Las Pirquitas Las Pirquitas is located 24 km north on RP 41 *

Hostería Provincial de Turismo Las Pirquitas, Ave. San Martín AELPV @ (03833) 492981 fax

Accommodation in Concepción Concepción is located 47 km south-west of Catamarca on the eastern slopes of the Sierra de Ambato. In the vicinity are many thermal springs but none with facilities *

Hostería de Turismo Concepción, RP 14 AELPV

@

491048

@

(03835) 497168

Accommodation in Pomán

• Hostería Provincial de Turismo de Pomán, Venezuela; Shared bathroom

Agroturismo For further information on agroturismo please contact Ing. Catalina Krapp, e-mail: [email protected] • Estancia Mischango is located 140 km east of Catamarca on the eastern slopes of the Sierra de Manchao. It offers accommodation for 8 persons. Activities include hiking in the mountains including ascension of Cerro Manchao. Also excursions into the Salar de Pipanaco

739

Catamarca

Accommodation in Catamarca — continued Accommodation in Las Juntas Agroturismo

• Estancia Los Timones is located 50 km north of Catamarca. It offers accomodation for 6 persons. Activities include horse-riding and trout fishing

Accommodation in Singuil Agroturismo

• Estancia Los Mimbres is located 90 km north of Catamarca. it offers accommodation and all meals for 16 persons. Activities include horse-riding and hiking

E Eating out

Festival), early December. Equestrian events

Restaurants • Cachito, Avenida H Yrigoyen 1743 • Don Luigi, Sarmiento 564 • Don Pedro, Caseros 384 $Y • El Encuentro, Hotel Ancasti, Sarmiento 520 $Y • El Tucumano, Sarmiento 836. Local cuisine • Güemes, Avenida Güemes 813 • Hotel Casino $Y • Hotel Leo III $X . International cuisine • La Farola, Rivadavia 1199 near Güemes • La Tinaja, Sarmiento 533 near Esquiú $Y. Credit cards. Parrilla • Ñaupa, Caseros near San Martín $Y • Quincho Chirot, República 750. Parrilla • Sociedad Española, Avenida Virgen del Valle 725 $Y • Tractoria, República 520 $Z • Viejo Bueno, Esquiú 480 $Z Pizzerías • La Cabaña, Tucumán 1115 • Las Cuartetas, Tucumán 625 • Los Maestros, Rivadavia 973

B Tourist information •

Tourist office, Sarmiento 545. Leaflets detailing various trips around San Fernando are available here Subsecretaría de Turismo de la Provincia, Avenida Virgen del Valle near General Roca @ 437595/432647 fax 430296/437593 Dirección de Turismo Municipal, Sarmiento 450 @ 422695

•

•

D Camping •

Camping Parque Adan Quiroga, Avenida Belgrano 1100 near Los Legisladores. Central location • Autocamping Municipal, Quebrada de El Tala RP 4 KM 5. This pretty spot is situated in a forested area • Camping El Calvario, Quebrada de El Tala; RP 4 KM 6 on your left Camping in Chumbicha • Balneario El Caolin, 5 km from town; kiosk, three swimming pools, forested area Key to map B C I P $ T

Gobernación Provincial (Government) Municipalidad (Town hall) Subsecretaría de Turismo de la Provincia Service stations Banco Galicia Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 7 Hotel Grand Hotel 8 Hotel Pucará 31 Hotel Colonial

Catamarca

38 40 54 59 62 63

Residencial Delgado Residencial Comodoro Hotel Sol Residencial Avenida Residencial Catamarca Residencial Yunka Suma

4 Eating out

1 Restaurant Don Pedro 10 Cafetería Quorum 30 Restaurant Quincho Chirot 34 Cafetería Ego 36 Cafetería El Bambi 39 Pizzería Las Cuartetas

740

41 Restaurant Sociedad Española 51 Pizzería Los Maestros 52 Pizzería Marcos 53 Restaurant La Farola 55 Pizzería La Cabaña 57 Cafetería La Terminal 60 Restaurant Güemes 61 Cafetería Yogui

5 Entertainment 9

Casino

7 Tour operators

32 Turismo Turi-Cat

CATAMARCA • • •

• Yogui, Avenida Güemes 825 Eating out in the suburb • Restaurant El Mangrullo, Avenida Belgrano. Grill Eating out in Chumbicha • Restaurant El Trébol, RN 38

Marielli, Esquiú 467 Marcos, Rivadavia 950 Monte Carlo, Rivadavia 544 near Esquiú Cafeterías • Amadeus, San Martín 425 • Bahía, República 590 • Ego, República 491. Video games • El Bambi, Tucumán 612 • Esquiú, Esquiú 461 • La Terminal, Avenida Güemes 850 • Nuevo Cabildo, República 580 • Oasis, Esquiú 1274 • Quorum, República 210 near Ayacucho • Richmond, República 546 • Tabare, Rivadavia 853

n Entertainment

• •

Casino, Ayacucho 563 Peña Folklorico Asociación Flor de Tusca (“Tusca Flower Folk”), corner of Quiroga and General Navarro. Open May to October 12. After 2200 each night regional cuisine is served in the dining room

To Gruta de la Virgen del Valle

To Tucumán

1

PRADO

N ESQUIÚ

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8

To Las Juntas

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CATAMARCA To La Rioja

741

Catamarca

3

Key to map

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Pl 2 5 a za d M ay e o 47

MOTA BOTELLO 48

• • • •

CATAMARCA CENTRO

Laundromat: Laverap, Mota Botello 345 Pharmacy: Farmacia Catedral, Rivadavia 626 Photo: Foto Cat, Rivadavia 732 Wines: Michango, Zurita 833

U Motoring

•

Localiza Rent A Car

Car rental: Localiza Rent A Car, Esquiú 786 @ 435838. Small car $60.00 plus $0.35 per km

Y Shopping

Catamarca Province is famous for its hand-woven ponchos and for its preserves, especially one made from the fruit of the prickly pear cactus. • A prestigious shopping center is incorporated into the bus terminal • Cuesta del Portezuelo, Sarmiento 571 near República. Local handicrafts • Regionales Maica, Sarmiento 589 near República • Mercado Artesanal, Avenida Urquiza 945; carpets, semiprecious stones, wood carvings, ponchos

Regionales Maica Banco Galicia Foto Cat Laverap

I Post and telegraph

Post office: Correo Central, San Martín 765 Telephones: Telecom, Rivadavia 758

a Sport

•

L Financial

Banco Galicia, Rivadavia 502

Hiking: The El Rodeo–La Puerta region is very popular for hikes, which take one to two days. There are many archaeological sites in this area

p Sightseeing

M Services and facilities

•

Fishing: Arturo Menecier Pesca, Avenida Güemes 568

Catamarca

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ll

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0 Services

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4 Museo Arqueológico “Adan Quiroga” 5 Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco 11 Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes “Laureano Brizuela” 45 Archivo y Museo Histórico de Catamarca

•

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CHACABUCO

9 Sights

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A

42 43

7 Car rental

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22 23 24 25

34 35

SAN MARTÍN

17 Austral and Andesmar 19 LAPA

18 27 44 48

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Residencial Esquiú Hotel Sumaj Huasi Hotel Ancasti Hotel Arenales Residencial Plaza Hotel Inti Huasi Hospedaje El Peregrino Hotel Leo III Restaurant Viejo Bueno Cafetería Esquiú Pizzería Marielli Restaurant La Tinaja Restaurant Don Luigi Restaurant Tractoria Cafetería Richmond Cafetería Nuevo Cabildo and Cafetería Bahía Pizzería Monte Carlo Cafetera Amadeus Restaurant El Tucumano Cafetería Tabare

6 Airline offices

6

11

$

19 20 21

16 17 18

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28 42 46 47

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3 Accomodation 12 16 20 21 29 33 35 43 3 13 14 15 22 23 24 25

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Catedral Basilica Nuestra Señora del Valle Correo Central Telecom

JUN ÍN

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6

5 4

742

Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco (Franciscan Church and Convent), Fray Mamertu Esquiú near

CATAMARCA

•

•

•

•

•

•

Huellas Andinas, Bulevardo C. Larralde 36-B @ 431930. Specializes in 4WD excursions into the altiplano • Viajes Yokavil, Rivadavia 916 @ 430066 fax Excursions • Pueblo Perdido de la Quebrada (”Lost Village of the Canyon”). This archeological site is located 5 km from San Fernando and consists of forty stone wall enclosures. Its age is estimated at 1400 years. To visit you need permission of the Dirección de Cultura de la Municipalidad • Other archeological sites are in the Quebrada El Tala and Quebrada El Potrero some 20 km north-west of San Fernando. Buses Acevedo run daily services. The Quebrada El Potrero branches off near El Calvario. This trip is for adventurous travelers interested in archeology • Las Juntas is an idyllic little town in the foothills of the Sierra de Manchao, some 54 km north on RP 4. RP 4 is sealed all the way south to Catamarca. The section which runs north to the junction with RP 1 at Los Varela is a dirt road. For mountaineers Cerro Manchao (4550 m) and La Silleta are nearby; guides can be hired in the village. Fishing is possible in the Río Las Juntas and Río Las Salvias. In October the festival of the patron saint Santa Teresita del Niño Jesús is celebrated. There is an unofficial camping site without any facilities at Punta del Camino, opposite the race course on the Río Las Juntas. Restaurant Vega and Cafetería El Junteñito are small eating places. Empresa Acevedo runs 1–2 services daily to Catamarca, via El Rodeo and Piedras Blancas • Chumbicha with a population of 3500 is located 66 km south-west near the intersection of RN 60 and RN 38 in the south-western part of the province. Altitude is 450 m. The Sierra de Ambato is within easy reach of here. It is the center of a citrus-growing area, in particular mandarines. There are many thermal springs in the Sierra de Ambato, but few or no tourist facilities. Fishing is possible in the Río Los Angeles and Río Concepción.

Rivadavia. The original church on this site dates to 1653. The present building dates from end of the 19th century. The cell occupied by the famous padre is preserved Catedral de San Fernando, on Plaza 25 de Mayo. Built in 1859 and dedicated to the Virgen del Valle. The frescos on the ceiling and gold decorations make this church interesting. The pulpit and altar are in baroque style Museo Arqueológico “Adan Quiroga” (Adan Quiroga Archeological Museum), in the Esquiú cultural institute, Sarmiento 450. This museum was named after a famous Argentine archeologist. The archeological section has displays of artefacts from each culture which flourished in the province, starting from the pre-ceramic period in 6000 BC. The colonial period is also well represented. There is also a good mineralogy section. Open daily 08:00–13:00 and 15:30–21:30, Sat and Sun 08:30–12:30. Admission $0.50 Archivo y Museo Histórico de Catamarca, Chacabuco 425. On exhibit are memorabilia of the history of Catamarca Province including paintings of former Governors. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–12:00 and 19:00–21:00 Museo Folklórico Juan Alfonso Carrizal, Paseo General Navarro. The items include antique fabrics, and memorabilia of the beginnings of Catamarca Province collected by Juan Alfonso Carrizo a local folklorist. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–13:00 and 15:00–21:00 Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes “Laureano Brizuela” (Laureano Brizuela Fine Arts Museum), República 338. On exhibit are paintings of famous artists. One room also has an archeological collection

s Excursions Tour operators • Lazo Tours, Gobernador Galindez 248 @ 432473 • Turismo Turi-Cat, República 832 @ 425499. Three buses

743

Catamarca

R Air services from Catamarca

Aeropuerto Felipe Varela is 27 km south of San Fernando. Aerolíneas Argentinas runs a minibus service from town; a taxi costs $11.00. Airlines • Austral, Sarmiento 589 @ 424450 • Andesmar, Sarmiento 589 local 7 @ 425070 • LAPA, Sarmiento 506 @ 434772 fax • For Aerotaxi flights (ALTA) to destinations within Catamarca Province ring Dirección Aeronáutica @ 430272 • Southern Winds, Sarmiento 589 @ 424512; e- mail: [email protected] Services • • • • • • • • • • • • •

•

Destination Fares Andalgalá $24.00 Antofagasta de la Sierra $65.00 Belén $30.00 Buenos Aires $115.00 Córdoba $70.00 Fiambalá $35.00 La Rioja $17.00 Mendoza $105.00 Rosario $130.00 Salta $74.00 Tucumán $45.00 Santa María $35.00 Tinogasata $30.00

Services 3 weekly 2 weekly 2 weekly 1 daily 3 weekly 2 weekly 3 weekly 2 weekly 3 weekly 3 weekly 3 weekly 3 weekly 2 weekly

Duration Airline 1 hour ALTA 1 hour 2 hour 11 2 hrs 1 hour 1 hour 1 hour 2 11 2 hr. 41 2 hrs 11 2 hrs 1 hour 2 1 hour 2 1 hour 1

•

Fiesta Provincial de la Mandarina (Mandarine Festival) is held in May. T.A.C. and Cooperativa Catamarca have two buses daily to and from Catamarca Concepción is 47 km south-west on RN 38 in the eastern foothills of the Sierra de Ambato. The turn-off is at Huillapima, 35 km south-west of Catamarca. The region produces walnuts and olives, and there are a number of hot springs in the area. The villagers will point you in the right direction. Trampasacha 8 km north of town is a small village in the foothills of the Sierra de Ambato. There are some easy walks up the valleys; the narrow gorges and small forests are also worth exploring. Start walks from Camping Municipal Trampasacha. On RN 38 is a Y.P.F. gas station with cafetería. This day trip off the beaten path to Concepción and the nearby little villages can be made by using Acevedo buses which run two services daily to this area

Catamarca

744

ALTA ALTA Aerolíneas Andesmar ALTA Aerolíneas and LAPA Andesmar Andesmar Andesmar Andesmar ALTA ALTA

San José, also known as Piedra Blanca: 14 km north. It is a an early Spanish foundation with narrow streets and plazas. In the vicinity are several historic buildings linked to the early Argentine history: Capilla de Nuestra Señora del Rosario in the village of La Callecita, built in the 19th century. A finely carved wooden image of the Virgin is venerated here. In the nearby village of La Tercena is the Capilla de Señor de los Milagros built in 1793. The sturdily built chapel is made of clay bricks and has one nave. The steeple was added later. It was here that Fray Mamertu Esquiú a cleric, active in the formative years of the Argentine republic, was baptized. The birthplace of Fray Mamertu Esquiú is also in San José. The former farmhouse is of simple construction and contains memorabilia of the politically very active priest. At La Carrera is the Gruta Pintada, aptly named because of pre-Hispanic rock paintings inside. Although regular buses ply between San Fernando and

CATAMARCA S Buses from Catamarca

The bus terminal is in Avenida Güemes 850 near Tucumán. It has a post office, a cloakroom, and a cafeteria. Bus companies and services • Acevedo e Hijos ° Los Angeles; 4 weekly ° Piedra Blanca via El Rodeo and Las Juntas ($3.30; 1 2 hour); 1–2 daily ° San Pedro via Miraflores, Huillapima and Concepción; 2 daily • Aconquija Transportes, @ 438988 ° Tucumán • Andesmar @ 423777 ° Jujuy via Tucumán and Salta; 1–2 daily ° Mendoza via La Rioja and San Juan; 1–2 daily • Bosio @ 424334/430253 ° Mendoza via La Rioja and San Juan ° Jujuy via Tucumán ° Santa María ($22.00) via Andalgalá and Belén; 2 weekly • Cacorba @ 423239 ° Buenos Aires via Córdoba and Rosario; ° Belén ($17.00; 6 hrs) via Andalgalá ($14.00; 41 2 hrs); 1 daily ° Belén via Pomán and Andalgalá ($14.00); 2 weekly ° Fiambalá ($15.00; 61 4 hrs) via Aimogasta and Tinogasta ($11.00; 51 4 hrs); 1–2 daily • Cooperativa Catamarca ° Chumbicha via Miraflores and Huillapima; 2 daily ° La Puerta via Banda la Varela, Callagasta and Las Pirquitas; 4–6 daily • El Antofagasteño ° Antofagasta de la Sierra via Chumbicha, Aimogasta and Belén; 1 weekly 13 hrs • Empresa Gutiérrez @ 436412 • General Urquiza, local 6 @ 434980 • La Estrella @ 430494 ° Tucumán ° Corrientes via Santiago del Estero and Resistencia; 1–2 daily ° Mendoza via La Rioja and San Juan; 1 daily ° Buenos Aires via Córdoba • Gral. Urquiza/Sierras de Córdoba @ 434980 ° Buenos Aires via Dean Funes, Jesús María, Córdoba, and Rosario; 1–2 daily • Empresa Los Angeles ° Nueva Coneta via La Viñita and Río Ongoli; 1 daily ° Sisi Huasi via Coneta, Miraflores and Las Tejas; 2–3 daily • Empresa Ortiz @ 432641 ° Comodoro Rivadavia via Córdoba and Santa Rosa • Empresa Salles, @ 439005 ° Esquiú via Icaño; 3 weekly ° Recreo via San Martín and Esquiú; 1 daily ° Ancasti via El Portezuelo and Anquincila; 3 weekly • T.A.C. @ 434980 ° Jujuy via Tucumán and Salta ° Mendoza via La Rioja and San Juan; 1–2 daily • T.A. Chevallier @ 430921 ° Buenos Aires via San Fernando, Dean Funes, Córdoba andRosario; 2 daily

745

Catamarca

Buses from Catamarca — continued Bus companies with own terminal • Empresa Lazo, Ave. G. Galíndez @ 432478 ° Singuil via Las Pirquitas, La Puerta and El Bolsón; 1 daily ° Cóndor Huasi via La Merced, Balcosna and Singuil; 3 weekly ° La Merced via El Portezuelo and Amadores; 2 daily • Rubimar, Maipú 1260 @ 432268 ° Córdoba ° Frías ° Fiambalá via Chumbicha, Aimogasta and Tinogasta Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

•

• •

Destination Fares Aimogasta $12.00 Buenos Aires $55.00 Córdoba $20.00 Corrientes $45.00 Frías $11.00 Jujuy $26.00 La Rioja $10.00 Mendoza $35.00 Pocitos $55.00 Posadas $58.00 Rosario $48.00 Salta $24.00 San Juan $28.00 Santiago del Estero $15.00 Tucumán $17.00

Duration 6 hrs 16 hrs 6 hrs 17 hrs 5 hrs 91 2 hr 21 2 hrs 10 hrs 15 hrs 22 hrs 11 hrs 8 hrs 9 hrs 5 hrs 41 2 hrs

these locations, it is better if interested to use a tour operator El Rodeo, a summer resort 38 km north in the Sierras de Ambato. This is a picturesque trip on a winding road through the Quebrada El Tala. The highest point is 1650 m at Las Cuestesillas. From here panoramic views over the valley to El Rodeo. Can be reached by Acevedo bus. Tour operators also do this half-day excursion which includes a side trip to Gruta de la Virgen del Valle (Grotto of the Virgin of the Valley). See also El Rodeo on page 748 Los Angeles a small mountain village. Trout fishing in Río Simbolar Acevedo has 4 services per week Las Juntas is located 55 km north. The trip follows RP 4 along the Río El Tala valley on the east side of the Sierra de Ambato and then follows the valley on the east side of the Sierra de Manchao. The villagers are weavers. Trout fishing in the mountain

Catamarca

•

•

746

streams. Can be reached by Acevedo bus Cuesta del Portezuelo pass: This is a 20 km stretch of steep winding road. Follow RN 38 for 18 km east until you cross the Río del Portezuelo. The turn-off to this mountain pass road is on the right shortly after crossing the Río del Portezuelo. The splendid views over the valley, and the winding road with its hairpin bends make this an exhilarating trip. The highest point is 1680 m, aptly named Alto del Portezuelo (Portezuelo Height). Best made with a tour operator who run half-day tour buses leaving at 09:00. Empresa Salles and Empresa Lazo run regular daily bus services over the Portezuelo to La Merced and Ancasti Pomán is located on the western side of the Sierra de Ambato. It was founded in 1633 by Jerónimo Luis de Cabrera—yet another attempt by the Spaniards to found a permanent

CATAMARCA

•

provincial capital. In 1898 it was completely destroyed by an earthquake. A few colonial buildings such as the church have survived. Agricultural products are olives, wine, and walnuts. It has 1700 inhabitants. In January the Fiesta de San Sebastián, the town’s patron saint is celebrated. The Municipalidad has a tourist information service in Calle Jerónimo Luis de Cabrera 1468. Empresa Bosio and Cacorba have two services daily to and from Catamarca, via Chumbicha taking 4 hrs. Coming from San Fernando the bus detours from the main highway into the mountains going through a string of picturesque little villages rejoining the main high way near Saujil. Pomán would be of interest to mountain hikers and those who enjoy visiting little villages far from the tourist trail. As the crow flies San Fernando on the eastern side of the Sierra de Ambato is only 60 km away. Pomán has accommodation (see above) and can be a stopover on the way to Andalgalá and Belén Andalgalá: This is a six-hour bus trip along the west side of Sierra de Ambato and Sierra de Manchao. The road initially goes through the flat part of the ever-widening Valle Catamarca, following the contours of the Sierra de Ambato as far as Chumbicha. Here the mountain ranges fade and the road turns northward following RN 60 for 50 km. After the intersection with RP 25 the road starts climbing. On reaching Pomán the bus turns into the mountainous region to serve the scattered villages such as Rosario de Colona situated on the western slope of the

•

•

Sierra de Ambato, and rejoins the main road again near Saujil. These mountain villages are very picturesque with the 4400 m range directly behind them. On the western side are sweeping views over the Salar de Pipanaco into which several rivers flow and disappear. From Saujil onwards the road skirts the edge of the mountain eventually descending onto the plain. There are fords over most rivers, rather than bridges. As the Sierra de Manchao is left behind the Sierra de Aconquija comes into view ahead. The town of Andalgalá is perched against the 5450 m high Nevado del Candado. Empresa Cacorba has daily buses to Andalgalá and beyond. See also Andalgalá on page 730 Copiapó in Chile, via Chumbicha, Tinogasta, and Paso de San Francisco (4726 m): This route follows RN 38 and RN 60. The road is sealed as far as the intersection with RN 60; from there it is sealed intermittently to Tinogasta, and after Fiambalá it is a gravel road for 750 km. There are no direct buses to Copiapó in Chile. See also Excursions from Fiambalá on page 750 Dique Las Pirquitas (Las Pirquitas Dam): 30km north on RP 1, about one hour by Empresa Lazo bus (fare $1.50) from the terminal. The valley is narrow, and the mountains covered with fairly dense subtropical vegetation. At the bus stop is the Hostería Provincial de Turismo. There is also Camping Municipal Las Pirquitas near the river. The first bus leaves San Fernando at 06:30 and the last bus leaves Dique las Pirquitas at 22:00

EL ALTO

El Alto Population: 2500 Postal code: 4235 @ area code: operator connected, dial 19 Altitude: 950 m Distance from Catamarca: 82 km east on RP 42

747

El Alto

E

l Alto is located in the east of Catamarca Province, near the border with the neighboring province of Santiago del Estero. Europeans had established farms here as early as 1692. The parish was founded in 1748. The area is fairly dry and agriculture depends on irrigation.

C Accommodation *

•

Hostería de Turismo El Alto, General Roca AELPV

S Buses

E Eating out • •

Empresa La Paz runs two daily bus services between Catamarca and Frías.

Restaurant Bar El Toty, San Martín Restaurant Heredia Pablo, Pueyrredón

s Excursions

•

I Post and telegraph •

Cabina Telefónica, General Mariano Necochea

Correo Argentino, General Mariano Necochea

Dique Collagasta: 12 km on RP 39. You can camp here but there are no facilities. It is a good place for fishing and water sports

EL RODEO

El Rodeo Postal code: 4715 @ area code: (03833) Altitude: 1275 m Distance from Catamarca: 34 km north on RP 4

L

ocated in the foothills of the Sierra de Ambato, the village of El Rodeo was founded in 1614. It is a popular weekend resort for the wealthy of San Fernando because of its cool climate and pleasant scenery. The center of town is dominated by holiday villas. The streets are named after flowers, which are the major crop of the region. This area is in the foothills of the Sierra de Ambato, with elevations of between 1200 and 1600 m. It is good hiking country. Wildlife in the area includes deer, vizcachas, wild boar, mountain turkeys, falcons, and eagles.

A Festivals in Rodeo •

Ambato. Forested area covering 100 ha AFL

Fiesta del Niquixao, 25th May. To honor the creative activity of the local population which is expressed by woollen fabric, leather and ceramics

E Eating out

• • •

D Camping in Rodeo •

Camping y Balneario Municipal “El Rodeo”, on the left bank of Río

C Accommodation in El Rodeo • • • • •

Restaurant Hotel Provincial Restaurant Hostería Vidal Restaurant Hostería Villafañez

Hotel Provincial de Turismo El Rodeo, Las Maravillas Hostería Doña Chicha, Los Gladiolos Hostería Santa Rosa, Las Maravillas Hostería Vidal Vega, Las Hortensias near Las Margaritas Hostería Villafañez, RP 4 near Las Maravillas

El Rodeo

748

@

490017 fax

$H

2

@ @

490053 490105

$H $H

2 2

CATAMARCA n Entertainment • •

a Sport

The Cumbre de Huaico is a favorite destination for mountain hikes and horse-riding. Cerro El Manchao with 4550 m is for the serious mountaineer. Fishing in rivers.

Disco Club Social, Las Hortensias Disco La Pachenga, Las Maravillas

I Post and telegraph • •

Post Office: Correo Argentino, Las Dalias Telephone: Telecom, Las Dalias near Las Angélicas

s Excursions

•

S Buses

The statue of Christ on Cerro El Manchao

Empresa Acevedo runs services between Catamarca, El Rodeo, and Las Juntas daily on Mon, Tues, Wed, and Fri; and twice daily on Thurs, Sat, and Sun.

FIAMBALÁ

Fiambalá Population: 2000 Postal code: 5345 @ area code: (03837) Altitude: 1460 m Distances From Paso de San Francisco (on the Chilean border): 203 km south-east on RN 60 • • From Tinogasta: 49 km north on RN 60

F

iambalá is situated in the wide desert-like valley of the Río Abaucán, whose huge shifting sand dunes contrast strangely with the high, encircling mountains. The town was founded in 1702 by Don Diego Frites de Carrizo. The old mission church is dedicated to San Pedro (Saint Peter), whose image was brought here from Bolivia. The church was built in 1770—you can still see the date inscribed above the door. Some of the paintings were made by the Cuzco school of paintings. From here to the Chilean border the land is sparsely populated and the terrain alternates between high mountains and salinas.

C Accommodation

Fiambalá was originally established as a reducción, a reservation for those few Indians who had survived the European invasion. These missions were usually run by Jesuit or Franciscan monks. These days the inhabitants grow wine in the valley. There are also many thermal springs in the area. Fiambalá is the starting point for the trip over the Sierra de los Andes to Copiapó in Chile via the San Francisco Pass (4726 m).

Fiambalá is a very friendly town. Finding accommodation in private houses is no problem. Private accommodation: • Cabur family • Cargio family

E Eating out

•

Comedor Silvia

S Buses

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•

749

Catamarca ($18.00; 61 2 hrs); 2 daily; Empresa Gutiérrez Córdoba: 3 daily; El Cóndor

Fiambalá

• • •

Cerro Negro: Departs 05:30 daily; Empresa Gutiérrez La Rioja ($12.50); 3 weekly; Empresa El Cóndor Tinogasta ($2.20; 1 hour); 2–3 daily; Empresa Gutiérrez

U Motoring

The road to Copiapó in Chile, via Paso de San Francisco (4726 m), is now almost completely sealed right up to the Chilean border but carries very little traffic. • Service station: Y.P.F.

Y Shopping

Fiambalá is famous for its exquisite hand-woven fabric.

p Sightseeing •

•

Old mission church dedicated to San Pedro built in 1770. The church is built of adobe with a bell tower, declared a national monument

•

s Excursions •

Fiambalá hot springs: A 16 km hike over a road partly covered by shifting, crescent-shaped sand dunes, which begin almost as soon as you leave town. The bridge over the Río Abaucán was swept away by a flood, and only four-wheel drive vehicles and those on foot can cross the sandy ford through the usually dry river bed. Once across the river the road ascends gently, obstructed now and then by huge drifting sand dunes, until you reach Quebrada de los Árboles. The name means “Canyon of Trees”, but there are no trees here at all! Signposts on the track point to mines inside the gorge. From here on

•

the road descends gently into the valley. Fiambalá remains in view for the entire walk. Near an abandoned village with an old church you see the first sign of a thermal spring. Follow the stream uphill for a short distance until you find a rock pool with a comfortable temperature. Located at 1570 m, the spring emerges at 54°C (155°F). This hot spring is at present generally only used by the locals and is so far unspoilt. However a study is presently under way to determine the feasibility of building a hotel here. Although the walk is not difficult, it is a long one, so take precautions against the fierce sun. The heat is intensified by the reflection on the bare hills and sand in the valley Troya: A pre-Hispanic site in the Río Troya valley. There is a signpost on the main road halfway to Tinogasta Saujil: 15 km north on RP 34 at 2000 m. The backdrop to Saujil are high mountains. Nearby are hot springs, at a temperature of 21°C (70°F). A track continues a further 32 km up the valley to Palo Blanco. By this time you are in the puna, a high altitude arid tableland; only private accommodation is available Copiapó, in Chile: RN 60 goes through the Río Chaschuil valley over the Paso de San Francisco, past Cerro de Incahuasi, 6620 m high, with views of Volcán Negro, 5420 m high. The most scenic part is past Loro Huasi where the road enters a canyon of 4 km. There are no buses to Copiapó. Last chance to stock up on gas and provisions

LA MERCED

La Merced Population: 1500 Postal code: 4718 @ area code: (03833) Altitude: 881 m Distance from Catamarca: 59 km north on RN 38

La Merced

750

CATAMARCA

L

a Merced is a summer holiday resort located in the foothills of the Sierra de Graciana in the department of Paclín. It is the center of a tobacco- growing area. A scenic drive over the Cuesta del Totoral (1310 m) and passing the Dique Sumampa brings you to La Viña.

C Accommodation

S Buses

•

Hostería Provincial de Turismo La Merced, RN 38 KM 636 AEFLPSV @ 495074 $I 1 Accommodation in La Viña La Viña is a small village 22 km north of La Merced • Cabañas La Viña, RN 38 KM 656 @ 493010. Reservation Catamarca: Hotel Leo III @ (03833) 431090 *

•

s Excursions

•

E Eating out • •

Empresa Lazo runs three services daily to San Fernando via Balcosna Empresa Bosio runs 1 service daily to Santiago del Estero and to San Miguel de Tucumán via Balcosna

Restaurant El Embrujo, RN 38 Restaurant Parlería, RN 38. Regional cuisine

La Viña: 24 km north on RN 38, the main highway between Catamarca and Tucumán. This is a very picturesque trip; it goes over the mountainous terrain of the Cuesta del Totoral, a very winding road

RECREO Postal code: 5260 @ Area code: (03832) Distance from Catamarca: 180 km south on RP 13 then east on RP 111

R

ecreo is located near the border with Santiago del Estero Province, close to the Salinas Grandes. This is one of the driest areas in the province. It is however an important stopover between Córdoba and Catamarca.

A Festivals •

E Eating out

• • • • •

Festival del Cabrito (Kid Festival): February

B Tourist information •

Oficina de Turismo, @ 427027/8

Snack Bar Clarck, Sarmiento 58 Snack Bar O’Clock, Sarmiento 82 Cafetería Facundo, Belgrano 31 Cafetería Oasis, RP 20 Vinicius, Belgrano 69

n Entertainment

C Accommodation

•

A Residencial Gran Hotel La Paz, Sarmiento 58 LP @ 427159 B Residencial El Mistolito, Sarmiento 473 L B Residencial Ely, Rivadavia 168 L B Residencial Gringa, Gobernador Cubas L B Residencial Recreo, Rivadavia 127 L @ 427081 B Residencial Rotta, Esquiú L

Trans Blue Disco, Sarmiento 82

I Post and telegraph

• •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Farid Osre near Dr. R. Sabagh Telephone: Telecom, Belgrano 226

U Motoring

•

751

Service station: Y.P.F., RN 157

La Merced

SANTA MARÍA

Santa María Population: 8000 Postal code: 4139 @ area code: (03838) Altitude: 1900 m Distances From Catamarca, via Aimogasta: 340 km south-west on RN 38, north-west on • RN 60, then north-east on RN 40. From San Miguel de Tucumán: 179 km west on RP 338 then RP 337 •

S

anta María is located in the Río Santa María valley formed by the Sierra de Quilmes on the western side and the Sierra del Aconquija on the east. Santa María was part of the Calchaquíes Indian federation which put up a massive resistance against the Spanish occupation. Ambrosio Nuñez Cancinos founded the town as a Spanish settlement in 1710. The area is rich in archeological sites, with rock paintings and Indian fortifications.

C Accommodation

n Entertainment

•

There is a shortage of accommodation in Santa María. • Hotel de Turismo Santa María, San Martín 100 near 1 de Mayo @ 420240 • Residencial Pérez, B. Mitre near San Martín A Residencial Plaza, San Martín 258 (on the Plaza) LP @ 420309 B Residencial Domingo Isidro Maturano, Belgrano 150 L @ 420476

I Post and telegraph

• •

Camping near Fuerte Quemado (archeological site) The archeological site of Fuerte Quemado is located 12 km north of town. The campsite has drinking water. Camping near Loro Huasi Loro Huasi is a small village 6 km south of Santa María. The campsite has water, electricity, and toilets.

• •

Regionales Lizi, Esquiú near T M de la Quintana

p Sightseeing

•

Restaurant El Rancho de Fredo, Moreno 332 Restaurant Hotel Turismo Santa María, San Martín 100 Cafetería El Águila, San Martín 231 (on the Plaza) Cafetería Plaza, San Martín 350

Santa María

Service station: Y.P.F., corner of Esquiú and Sarmiento

Y Shopping

•

E Eating out •

Post office: Correo Argentino, T M de la Quintana 375 Telephones: Coop. Telefónica de Santa María, Belgrano 103

U Motoring

•

D Camping

•

Diamante discotheque, Maestro Argentino

Museo Arqueológico Eric Bohman (Eric Bohman Archeological Museum), Sarmiento 180. Archeological collection from the immediate Santa María area. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–12:00 and 16:00–20:00

s Excursions

For travelers interested in archeology Santa María is the center of several archeological sites. • Tafí del Valle: The road from Santa María is sealed as far as Amaicha del Valle. Near Amaicha del Valle the local bus takes a convoluted route in order to take in some distant villages

752

CATAMARCA S Buses from Santa María

There is no central bus terminal. Bus companies • Empresa Aconquija, Belgrano 220 • Empresa Bosio, D.F. Sarmiento 415 • Empresa El Indio, Belgrano 271 Long-distance services

•

•

Destination Fare Amaicha del Valle

• • • • • • • • • • • •

Andalgalá $16.50 Belén $11.40 Cafayate (Salta) $5.50 Colalao del Valle El Mollar Ruinas de Quilmes Ríos Salta $19.20 San Fernando $29.70 San José $1.10 Tucumán $11.40 Tafí del Valle

Services 4 daily 3 weekly 3 weekly 1–2 daily 2 daily 4 daily 4 daily 4 daily 2 daily 2 weekly 12 daily 4 daily 4 daily

Duration Company 1 hour El Aconquija Bosio Bosio 2 hrs El Indio, El Aconquija 1 hrs El Aconquija El Aconquija El Aconquija Local Bus 11 hrs El Indio 9 hrs Bosio Local Bus 5 hrs El Aconquija 3 hrs El Aconquija

•

before returning to Amaicha. The dirt road from Amaicha starts climbing and is winding and narrow. It can get very cold here; rivers freeze over in winter. There are huge cacti on the steep mountain slopes. This is beautiful country, particularly around Abra de Infiernillo. Further down is Carapunco, which was an Inca outpost. Soon after the road crosses Paso El Infiernillo you get your first glimpses of Tafí del Valle with its artificial lake. Many mountain streams join the Río Tafí here. Some houses along this road are still thatched with straw. Reafforestation with pine trees is in progress. Shortly before Tafí the road becomes sealed again Cerro Pintado: 8 km to these colored sandstone mountains

• • •

•

753

Loma Rica: 18 km south off RN 40. Important pre-Hispanic ruins Ampajango: 20 km south, off RN 40. Interesting petroglyphs can be seen here. Quebrada de Jujuil 8 km south-east; archeological site Ruinas de Quilmes, in Tucumán Province: 32 km north on RN 40. From the turn-off it is a well-sign-posted 5 km walk to the ruins of this once formidable pre-Hispanic fortification. It has been restored, and there is a small museum. There are also camping facilities and a guide at the site. See Ruinas de Quilmes on page 762 La Hoyada: In the Río Saladillo valley. There are irregular buses from Santa María

Santa María

TINOGASTA

Tinogasta Population: 10 000 Postal code: 5340 @ area code: (03837) Altitude: 1500 m Distances From Catamarca: 277 km north-west on RN 38 and RN 60 • From Copiapó (Chile): 522 km south-east on RN 60 •

T

inogasta is located in the Río Abaucán valley near the junction with the Río Las Lajas in the western part of the province. It was officially founded in 1713 by the Governor Don Estebán de Nieva y Castilla. Wine and olives are the main crops • Residencial Rivadavia, 25 de Mayo near Catamarca 1. Breakfast only grown in the area, but mining is the mainstay of the economy. The green Accommodation on RN 60 north valley contrasts starkly with the bare & * Hostería Novel, Córdoba 200, near the airstrip @ 420009 mountains rising sharply on the western side. D Camping The town’s population is pre• Los Filtros, Santa Rosa, RN 60, 4 km dominately Indian, and most work north • Olivo Centenario, San Roque, RN 60, in the copper mines. 8 km north. No facilities, but near In the vicinity of Tinogasta are thermal springs several interesting archeological sites, hot springs, and some beautiE Eating out ful mountain scenery. The best time • Restaurant Hotel de Turismo, corner to visit the area is from November to of Moreno and Gordillo May.

I Post and telegraph

A Festivals •

•

Fiesta Provincial de la Vendimia (Provincial Grape Harvest Festival): February

•

U Motoring

B Tourist information •

The 61 km road over the Cuesta de Zapata to Londres is not sealed.

Municipalidad de Tinogasta, Dr. Antonio del Pino 739 @ 420025 fax

Service stations & • A.C.A., Moreno near Rivadavia. EnHotel Don Alberto, A. Del Pino 425 quire here for information about trips @ 420323 to Copiapó in Chile, and also for phoHotel Familiar, General Uriburu 231 tocopies of road maps of the route to Hotel Provincial de Turismo Chile. Very helpful Tinogasta, Moreno near 25 de Mayo • Y.P.F., corner of RN 60 and Tristan @ 423911 Villafañez. South of town Residencial El Viajante, RN 60 south of town center near bus terminal. Sita Sport uated at the entrance to the town, op• Fishing: There is trout fishing in the posite the service station; no hot Río Chaschuil, past Fiambalá on the water road to the Chilean border

C Accommodation •

• • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Moreno 605 near Constitución Telephone: Telecom, Antonio del Pino 739

Tinogasta

754

CATAMARCA S Buses from Tinogasta

There is no bus terminal. • Empresa Santa Rita operates from Residencial Rivadavia, 25 de Mayo near Rivadavia. ° Chilecito; 3 weekly • Empresa El Cóndor, Residencial rivadavia ° Córdoba via Aimogata (3hrs), Termas de Santa Teresita, and La Rioja; 2 daily • Empresa Robledo, Ave. J.d Perón @ 420073 • Empresa Ortiz, Goblet @ 420599 • Transportes Gutiérrez, on the main plaza ° Tucumán via Belén ($7.50; 3 hrs), Andalgalá ($13.20; 5 hrs) and Concepción; 3 weekly • Cacorba, RN 60 @ 420044 ° Fiambalá ($2.20; 1 hour); 1 daily ° Córdoba via Catamarca; 1–2 daily • • • • • •

Destination Catamarca Chilecito Concepción Córdoba La Rioja Termas de Santa

•

Tucumán

Fare $15.00 $14.30 $23.10 $26.40 $9.90 Teresita $7.00 $26.00

Hours 51 2 hrs 11 hrs 13 hrs 5 hrs 12 hrs

s Excursions •

Fiambalá: RN 60 follows the Río Abaucán valley north. As you make your way up the valley it narrows and the mountains grow larger on the western side. The scenery is spectacular around here; occasionally a few snow-covered peaks are visible. It can get very cold at night but the days are warm even during winter. There are many hot springs in the area just outside Tinogasta, but none of them have facilities. Two of them just a few km north of town are San Roque and San José. Both are well sign-posted on the main highway. The airstrip outside town is no longer used for commercial flights. The valley widens as you proceed north and passes through olive groves and vineyards. Las Aguaditas de San José are thermal springs, just past San José. Further on the road passes through a narrow gap between the Sierra de Fiambalá on

• •

755

the east and the range on the west, and emerges onto a plain which gets wider and wider, and begins to look like a desert owing to the sand dunes which shift across its surface. The road fords the Río Troya which is flowing from the west. A signpost on the road points to the archaeological site of Troya (also known as Batungasta) further up in the Río Troya valley. The road becomes very patchy and all the rivers are forded. Just before entering Fiambalá the vineyards begin again. See also Fiambalá on page 750 Las Aguaditas de San José: 15 km north, off RN 60. Thermal springs. There is a pool and changing rooms Troya (or Batungasta): 20 km north, off RN 60. Archaeological ruins, halfway between Tinogasta and Fiambalá in the Río Troya valley

Tinogasta

TUCUMÁN TUCUMÁN N–W Tucumán PROVINCES

Plate 17 758 758 759 760 761 762 763 764 765 765 768 768 771 774 777 780

Map of Tucumán Province Amaicha del Valle ACDSU Colalao del Valle ABCSUWst Concepción de la Ramada CSaeis Juan B Alberdi CSbefgrs Parque Provincial Cochuna Sbtv Ruinas de Quilmes CSt San Pedro de Colalao ACDSYabst Taco Ralo CSu Tafí del Valle ABCEnSUWbeqst Map Tucumán ABCEnJKLMNPRSTUVWYabe fghiopqrstu Map of greater Tucumán Map of city center Map of the tourist center Map of Parque 9 de Julio Stopovers C

ucumán at 225 000 square kilometers (8690 square miles) and with 1.3 million inhabitants is the smallest province in Argentina. In spite of its compactness it offers the tourist a wide variety of scenery: there are plains in the east and high mountains in the west. Among the higher mountains are the Cumbres de Calchaquies, Nevados del Aconquija with the highest peak in the province, Cerro del Bolsón at 5550 m. The eastern slopes of the ranges are covered in beautiful forests which contain walnut trees, Tucumán cedars, and lapachos rosados.

T

Tucumán Province shares borders to the south and west with Catamarca,

to the north with Salta, and to the east with Santiago del Estero.

756

TUCUMÁN The central region, which is traversed by the Río Salí, is the most important and most fertile part of the province. Here is the agricultural heart of Tucumán, where crops such as sugar cane, citrus fruit, soy beans, and cotton are grown. Tucumán has several large hydroelectric schemes, such as the Embalse Escaba and Dique Celestino Gelsi dams, both of which produce energy and store water for irrigation. This is the base of a progressively growing industrialization. The artificial lakes produced by the dams have become centers of tourism, offering a variety of water sports. The capital, San Miguel de Tucumán — outside the province usually abbreviated to Tucumán— is the ideal starting point for many trips in the province. It boasts many first-class hotels, a lively night life, beautiful parks, and good transport facilities. The road network contains about 4100 km, of which 900 km are sealed and about 1000 km are compacted. Outside Tucumán, the most important urban centres are Tafí Viejo, Monteros, Juan B Alberdi, Concepción de la Ramada, Tafí del Valle and Lules. Tucumán has many archeological and historical sites which for the most part are easily accessible and provide reasonable accommodation. However as most tourist destinations are easily accessible from Tucumán with tour operators or

local buses, most tourist destinations have been described as excursions from Tucumán. In the extreme south of the province are many thermal springs such as those at Taco Ralo and La Madrid. These springs are part of the same system of thermal water which surfaces in the neighbouring Province of Santiago del Estero.

Places of tourist interest Scenic drives include: RP 338 and RP 380 between Yerba Buena and Anta Muerta, between Anta Muerta and Villa Nougués, and between Villa Nougués and San Pablo; RP 307 between Casa de Piedra and Amaicha del Valle; RP 308 (which is continued in Catamarca Province as RP 9) from Boca de la Quebrada onwards past Lago Escaba; RP 330 (which also extends into Catamarca Province) from El Potrerillo through Parque Provincial El Cochuna to Cuesta del Clavillo. Worth a visit & Tucumán city Worth a detour & Tafí del Valle & Ruinas de Quilmes Very interesting

& Amaicha del Valle & Parque Provincial El Cochuna Of interest & Lago Escaba & Dique Celestino Gelsi

757

Tucumán

AMAICHA DEL VALLE

Amaicha del Valle Postal code: 4137 @ area code: (03892) Altitude: 1980 m Distances From Tucumán: 165 km west on RN 38 and RP 307 • From Santa María in Catamarca Province: 24 km north on RP 337 • From Cafayate in Salta Province: 67 km south on RP 340 then representative 307 •

A

maicha del Valle is located in the Río Calchaqui valley on the Río Amaicha, in the western part of Tucumán. It is the only wine-producing area in the province, and also produces woollen textiles.

S Buses

Amaicha del Valle is the only Indian community left in the province which has preserved its pre-Colombian traditions. These traditions may be seen demonstrated at regional fairs and fiestas.

• • • •

A Festivals • •

•

Fiesta de la Pachamama: February. This festival goes back to pre-Colombian times Fiesta Patronal de San Ramón: August. Festival of the town’s patron saint

U Motoring

A very winding and picturesque road goes over the 3040 m Paso Infiernillo, 21 km from Tafí de Valle and 28 km from Amaicha del Valle. The road is sealed intermittently over this stretch, and also over the stretch between Amaicha del Valle and the junction of RN 40, which leads north to Cafayate. RN 337 south to Santa María is fully sealed. A few kilometers past the pass is the turnoff to the Observatory of Ampimpa.

C Accommodation •

Hostería Colonial, M. Araoz @ 421046/421019 $I 1

D Camping •

Tucumán ($14.50; 5 hrs); 4 daily; Empresa El Aconquija Cafayate ($5.50; 3 hrs); 2 daily; Empresa El Aconquija Ruinas de Quilmes ($2.20 ; 1 hour); 2 daily; Empresa El Aconquija Santa María ($3.30; 1 hour) 2 daily; Empresa El Indio Tafí del Valle (2 hrs); 4 daily; Empresa El Aconquija

Municipal camp site, Juan Bautista Alberdi

COLALAO DEL VALLE

Colalao del Valle Population: 400 Postal code: 4141 @ area code: Operator connected, dial 19 Altitude: 1815 m Distances • From Cafayate: 53 km south on RN 40 • From Tafí del Valle: 87 km north on RP 307 then RN 40

Amaicha del Valle

758

TUCUMÁN

C

olalao del Valle is located in the northern Río Calchaqui valley, near the border with Salta Province. (It is not to be confused with San Pedro de Colalao also in Tucumán but situated on the eastern slopes of the Cumbres de Calchaquies.) It is a small rural Indian community not far from the archeological site of Quilmes.

A Festivals •

and also to Santa María. Buses go past the turn-off to Quilmes ruins.

Fiesta del Antigal: January. This festival goes back to pre-Colombian times Fiesta del Poncho: July

•

U Motoring

•

B Tourist information

s Excursions

The hostería doubles as voluntary tourist information center. There are more abandoned ruined pre-Colombian villages hidden in the Cumbres de Calchaquies.

•

C Accommodation *

Service station: Y.P.F.

•

Hostería Colalao del Valle, north end of town AELPV @ 421045 $I 1

Ruinas de El Pichao: Some 8 km east of Colalao del Valle in the direction of Cerro Condor Huasi is this pre-Hispanic village. For trail blazers the Río Yasyamayo is suggested Ruinas de Quilmes: See Ruinas de Quilmes on page 762

S Bus services

Empresa El Aconquija runs daily services between Tucumán and Cafayate,

CONCEPCIÓN DE LA RAMADA

Concepción de la Ramada Population: 40 000 Postal code: 4146 @ area code: (03865) Distance from Tucumán: 76 km south on RN 38

C

oncepción de la Ramada is situated on the Río Gastona. Its name is commonly abbreviated to “Concepción”. It is the center of a sugar cane farming area, having many sugar mills, and is also a timber milling center. Visit the Benedictine monastery 5 km outside town, where you can buy Benedictine liqueur and other regional products.

C Accommodation in Concepción de la Ramada Hotel Cóndor Huasi, 25 de Mayo 65 Hotel Libertador, España 1714 * Hotel San Martín, N. Estéfano 31 • Hotel Colonial, Colón 61 • Hotel Milán, 24 de Septiembre 2601 A Residencial Cochuna, Heredia 134

*** ***

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AELPV

LP

@ @ @ @ @ @

422913 421648 fax 421053 421257 423325 421127

$F

2

$H

2

$G

2

$I

1

Accommodation in Parque Provincial Cochuna

• Cabañas Autocamping Cochuna, 39 km west on RP 65 Reservations: @ 423784; also camping

759

Concepción de la Ramada

S Buses •

• • •

s Excursions

•

Empresa Gutiérrez, Ing. Marconi 285 @ 422512 ° Andalgalá ($10.50; 5 hrs); 5 weekly ° Belén ($15.00; 8 hrs); 3 weekly ° Tinogasta ($23.50; 11 hrs); 1 weekly La Estrella Italia 1245 @ 423156 El Tucumano, Italia 1254 @ 421854 Expreso del Oeste SA, Italia 1231 @ 423678 ° To Tucumán there are at least 15 daily services taking 2 hrs

•

Dique El Molino: A dam on the Río Gastona 10 km upstream, near Itico Parque Provincial El Cochuna: 60 km on RP 329 then RP 330. The area is most interesting from El Potrerillo onwards. Buses run by Gutiérrez to Tinogasta pass through the Parque Provincial and over the Cuesta del Clavillo. The park is densely forested with many subtropical species. Trout fishing in the streams is permitted in season

a Sport •

Golf: Corona Golf Club, Casilla de Correo 11 @ 421224; 18 holes

JUAN B ALBERDI

Juan B Alberdi Postal code: 4158 @ area code: (03865) Distance from Tucumán: 102 km south on RN 38

J

uan B Alberdi is a small town surrounded by sugar-cane farms. It is a stopover for changing buses up to Dique Escaba.

C Accommodation •

•

especially for pejerrey; and trout which have been released into the lake and have migrated further up the streams where the water is colder. The word Escaba is a Quechua word meaning “where the rivers come together, and is a fitting description of the location. It has become one of the favorite tourist centers in the province, providing for all kinds of water sports as well as sport fishing. Boats may be hired from the Club de Regatas de Tucumán. The bus follows RP 308 and fords the Río Marada near Corralito. Most houses in this area have straw-thatched roofs. This is very fertile country, mainly used for sugar cane and tobacco growing. Near Boca de la Quebrada we enter the Escaba gorge and the next 13 km run steeply uphill on a narrow winding road. Past the Batiruana power station there is every 100 m or so a widening in the road to permit

Hotel Alberdi, Moreno 440 @ (03865) 471378 Residencial Hoffmann

S Bus services •

•

General Urquiza, Ave. Sarmiento 400 @ 472100 La Estrella @ 471968 ° There are at least 11 daily to Tucumán ($4.80) ° Dique Escaba ($1.80; 1/2 hour)

s Excursions •

Dique Escaba: An artificial lake covering approximately 535 ha (1322 acres), 24 km west on RP 308, altitude 690 m. The Escaba hydroelectric and irrigation scheme is one of the largest in the country. The waters come from the Cumbres de Narvaez, whose highest point is Cerro Moros at 1920 m, and Cumbres de Santa Ana. The lake provides good fishing,

Juan B Alberdi

760

TUCUMÁN oncoming traffic to pass. Not far from the electricity plant there is an excellent picnic area with barbecue facilities. From here onwards the road is carved out of the mountain and rocks overhang the road forming quasi-tunnels; it becomes so narrow that only one vehicle can pass. At one stage the road “hangs” 400 m above the valley floor. For the best views sit on the right-hand side of the bus. Little mountain streams cascade everywhere, and orchids cover the valley and mountain side. At one spot the river has carved a deep U-turn into the mountain—the panorama here is breathtaking. The drive through the lush subtropical canyon is exhilarating. Shortly afterwards you reach the highest point, with views over the lake, backed by the Aconquija chain. The road passes over the crest of the dam to serve Escaba de Arriba at the northern end, and returns from there to terminate at Escaba de Abajo at the southern end. The local hostería at the moment has only a few rooms and

•

several cabins between the road and the main building but may not be open. It is definitely not geared for a large influx of tourists, and does not cater well to foreign tourists. Bring your own food, as the cafeteria is usually closed. This is interesting hiking and camping country and certainly a good day trip from Juan B Alberdi with several local daily buses; return fare $2.00. See also Excursions from Tucumán on page 777 Los Pizarros: 25 km south of Juan B Alberdi and about 5 km west of La Cocha. Its only claim to fame is the Jesuit mission church of San Ignacio built in 1746. The church, located in a cemetery, has been completely restored. It is a national monument and worth a visit. There is good pejerrey fishing in the nearby Río San Ignacio. There are several daily buses from Tucumán and Juan B Alberdi. I managed to visit both Los Pizarros and Dique Escaba in one day while staying in Tucumán

PARQUE PROVINCIAL EL COCHUNA

Parque Provincial El Cochuna Distance from Concepción de la Ramada: 48 km west on RP 329

P

arque Provincial El Cochuna is situated in the Río Cochuna valley. RP 329 branches off RN 38 at Concepción and passes through the park on its way to the neighboring Catamarca Province. The most picturesque part is the splendid views up the valley after crossing the Río Vallecito bridge. Shortly after La Banderita the road reaches its highest point at Cuesta del Clavillo, from where it descends into the Río Grande del Campo valley in Catamarca. This is a place for the hiker and camper, with mountain scenery of the Nevados del Aconquija reaching 5550 m in the Cerro del Bolsón. The vegetation is subtropical. There are no tourist facilities. The Sierra del Aconquija has many ruinas indígenas but it is difficult to reach them. Many of them are located above 4000 m. The hike through some very difficult terrain should only be undertaken by seasoned bush walkers and even so is best with a tour guide. Some tour

operators organize tours to the Ruinas de la Ciudacita located at 4200 m. This is a pre-Hispanic settlement which was apparently of some importance and located on an Inca trail. This is a six- to seven-day adventure trip in some very rugged country. To prepare for this trip 761

Parque Provincial El Cochuna

S Buses

contact the University in Tucumán which has done some research in the area and may even have a team in the area.

Ruinas de Quilmes

Empresa Gutiérrez runs five buses along the southern perimeter of the park to Belén and Andalgalá in Catamarca Province. If you intend to hike in the park, ask the driver to set you down.

RUINAS DE QUILMES

R

uinas de Quilmes is one of the major archeological sites in Tucumán and indeed in the whole of Argentina. It is located 25 km north-west of Amaicha, about 5 km east of RN 40; the turn-off is well sign-posted. It can be reached by bus from Cafayate 53 km north in Province Salta, from Santa María 32 km south in Catamarca Province and from Amaicha del Valle 22 km south east in Tucumán Province. Quilmes was the place where the Calchaquies peoples staged their final resistance against the invading Spaniards. This fortress town was built on the slopes of the horseshoeshaped Cerro Alto del Rey—a steep hill—with vanguard points along the rim of the horseshoe and small fortifications on the slopes. Clever use was made of rock formation to build the defence installations, some of them subterranean. They were farmers cultivating potatoes, corn but also a war-like tribe; to provide water for crops and consumption they even built a dam in the vicinity. Historians believe they migrated from Chile to escape there the advance of the Inca Empire. Rather than risking a frontal attack which would have been disastrous for their troops the Spanish outflanked the defenders by climbing the hills and attacking them from above. When the fortress fell in 1667 the survivors were dispersed over Argentina, in the same way that the Incas had done with unruly conquered peoples. The biggest contingent of survivors was settled near Buenos Aires Ruinas de Quilmes

where to this day a district is called Quilmes. It is also the brand name of a well-known brewery. The federal government has made a commendable effort to restore the ruins and has constructed paths up the rather steep hill on which the fortress stands. The visit to Quilmes is definitely one of the highlights of a tour through Argentina. The administration building has an information desk, guides, and a kiosk for refreshments. Outside the main tourist season it is not always open. Conducted tours are available from Tucumán and also from Salta. But it is also possible to use regular bus services plying between Tucumán and Salta.

C Accommodation ***

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762

Hostería Parador Quilmes, just outside the archeological area ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 421075 $E 2 Estancia Los Chorrillos $E 1 including breakfast; there is also a golf course

TUCUMÁN S Buses

a gravel road. This gives keen photographers an opportunity to take pictures of the ruins when the sun is rising. An extensive visit right up to the highest point of the ruined town and inspection of the bastions and trails leading to them would take three or four hours, giving the tourist a chance to return to the main road and catch a bus either to Santa Maria or Tucumán and Tafí del Valle.

Empresa Aconquija runs a daily direct service to the ruins leaving Tucumán at 06:00 and arriving at 12:00. The return bus leaves at 07:40. There are also 2–3 daily to Cafayate which pass the intersection leading to the ruins. For the budget tourist the best starting point is Cafayate, where a bus leaves at 06:00 arriving at the turn-off at around 07:00. From the road junction it is 45 minutes’ brisk walk over

SAN PEDRO DE COLALAO

San Pedro de Colalao Population: 1500 Postal code: 4124 @ area code: (03862) Altitude: 1190 m Distance from Tucumán: 90 km north on RN 9 then RP 311

S

an Pedro de Colalao is an agricultural community in a mountainous region. It is located on the Río Tipas near its junction with the Río Tacanas, with the Cumbres de Santa Bárbara forming a backdrop. It is a good base for excursions into the Cumbres de Calchaquies. The climate is rather cool and the air is fresh and clean. Sometimes during summer heavy rains cause the rivers to rise suddenly. In the surrounding district are natural swimming pools set in groves suitable for camping. Willow trees along the banks of the clear rivers and brooks and commercially grown walnut trees are the hallmark of the region. San Pedro is famous for its handicrafts. •

The area is full of archeological sites of pre-Colombian Calchaquies tribes. Outside town on the road to Las Tacanas is a little cave on the left-hand side which is venerated as a Catholic shrine. This is mostly cattle-raising country but there are a number of walnut orchards. A trip can also be made to Hualinchay where the mountain trail starts across the range into the Río Calchaqui valley near Tolombón in Salta Province.

D Camping

•

Autocamping Dr. Enzo Ciotola, 9 de Julio

S Buses

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Tucumán ($8.00; 3 hrs) departs Mon–Fri 05:00; Empresa San Pedro de Colalao

Y Shopping

Hand-made leather goods, walnuts.

a Sport

A Festivals •

Fiesta de San Pedro: 29th June. Festivities on the occasion of the town’s patron saint last for a week and are very colorful

•

Fiesta de la Nuez (Walnut Festival): first half of April

763

Mountaineering: Some of the mountains can be easily scaled, such as Cumbres de Santa Bárbara

San Pedro de Colalao

C Accommodation in San Pedro de Colalao **

B B B B B B •

Hostería El Lapacho, R11 KM 24; situated just before crossing the Río Tacanas on the left-hand side of the highway at the entrance to the village AEFGJLPUV @ 481069 $H Hostería Colalao, L @ 481156 $J Hostería Soiv, Las Heras LS @ 481133 $I Residencial Nieva, LS @ 481111 $I Residencial Ollantay, 25 de Mayo @ 481004 $I Residencial Victoria, 25 de Mayo L $I Pensión Mamami, 25 de Mayo near San Martín L $I Hostería ATEP, 25 de Mayo @ 481105

1 1 1 1 1 1 1

Accommodation in Hualichay

• Camping Las Terrazas, also 5 cabins ALR. Forested area, fishing

•

•

Hiking: Two-day hike to Hualinchay and Tolombón in Salta Province. There is a trail leading over the Cumbres de Calchaquies

•

s Excursions •

•

Monastery at Hualinchay: 16 km south

•

Quebrada de los Laureles and Quebrada Chulca: Picturesque gorges Jesuit church at Trancas: Access by bus La Ovejería: 8 km. Archeological site with petroglyphs. Use a local guide as you may not be able to find them on your own Quebrada de Anta

TACO RALO

Taco Ralo Postal code: 4242 @ area code: (03891) Distance from Tucumán: 120 km south on RN 157

T

aco Ralo is located in flat chaco country. The climate is mainly dry; the rainfall rarely exceeds 500 mm a year, and falls mainly between November and March. Taco Ralo is best known for its thermal springs which are slightly radioactive, and have a temperature of 42°C (110°F). They belong to the same type of springs as those at neighbouring Termas de Río Hondo. They are claimed to have curative properties for rheumatism sufferers, and can help relieve kidney stones. Among the many thermal springs located on the Río Marada flats, the best known is Pozo de Baez, some 12 km from Taco Ralo

Taco Ralo

railroad station. This water has a temperature of 48°C, (144°F) is slightly radioactive, and contains rare elements such as vanadium, lithium, and rubidium. Taco Ralo has some hospedajes and residenciales in town but they are basic. I recommend that you make a day excursion from Tucumán instead.

C Accommodation

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764

Hostería Termal Taco Ralo @ 421991

TUCUMÁN S Buses

Empresa Posta runs 21 services daily to Simoca and eight to La Madrid and Taco Ralo.

TAFÍ DEL VALLE

Tafí del Valle Population: 4500 Postal code: 4137 @ area code: (03867) Altitude: 1980 m Distance from Tucumán: 107 km south-west on RN 38 and RP 307

T

afí del Valle is one of the main tourist centers in the province. It is located in the beautiful Río Tafí valley, with the Sierra de Aconquija in the west and Cumbres de Calchaquies in the north forming a chain of high sierras. The village is located on the site of a former Jesuit hacienda. In the southern part of the valley is the artificial lake Lago La Angostura, and the valley center is dominated by La Pelada hill, rising sharply from the banks of the lake to a height of 2680 m. The best time to visit is during spring and autumn. Summers are very wet, and winters are dry and cold with occasional frost and snow. The average temperature in July is 6°C (40°F), and there is some fog in July and August. Nights are usually cold. The Tafí area is perfect hiking country.

Archeologists confirm that this valley was inhabited by Diaguita peoples long before the Spaniards arrived—at least since 400 BC. The strategic position between the mountain peoples and the Chaco peoples, and the consequent exchange of goods and ideas gave rise to the advanced Diaguita– Calchaquies civilization. They

To Amaicha del Valle

UÍ CH AQ AL J. .C

2

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E ROJAS

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6

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Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Casa del Turista Bus terminal

3 Accommodation

To Parque los Menhires and Tucúman

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Key to map 1

1 2 3 6

Hostería Tafí del Valle A.C.A. Hostería Lunahuana Residencial Colonial Residencial La Cumbre

4 Eating out 4 5 7 8

Restaurant El Portal de Tafí Restaurant Bar El Paraíso Restaurant El Ciervo Restaurant El Rancho de Félix

9 Sights 9

TAFI DEL VALLE

765

Museo Capilla La Banda

Tafí del Valle

planted corn and domesticated llamas, and lived in small communities throughout the valleys. Proof that the area became affiliated with the Inca Empire is Carapunco, an Inca tambo located 18 km uphill towards El Infiernillo pass. In 1617 the Calchaqui peoples were conquered by Alonso de Mercado and Villacorte. Around 1700 the Jesuits arrived, who, in a short period of time (until their expulsion in 1767), reorganized the communities and substantially raised the Indians’ standard of living. The Jesuits’

successors could not keep up the rate of westernization and during the eighteenth century the valley fell from European knowledge. Only since the establishment of a road link with Tucumán in 1943 has the area been opened to national development. The many archeological sites bear witness to the advanced state of civilization of the pre-Hispanic population. The menhirs, or carved stone monoliths, of El Mollar, a hill some 8 km south of Tafí overlooking the lake, are well known.

C Accommodation in Tafí del Valle

During the main tourist season from December to March there is a shortage of accommodation. Hotels **** ****

El Mirador, RP 307 KM 61.2 Tafí, Avenida Belgrano 177

ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 421219/43 fax $E ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 421007 $F

Residenciales

A Colonial, Avenida Belgrano near Los Faroles Near the bus station LPS B Celia Correa, Avenida Belgrano L B La Cumbre, Diego de Rojas 120 L

2 2

@

421443

$H

1

@ @

421170 421016

$I $I

1 1

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Hosterías Lunahuana, Avenida Gobernador Gritto 540 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 421330/60 * Tafí del Valle A.C.A., Avenida San Martín near Ave. Campero AELPV @ 421027 • De los Cuartos, Juan Calchaquí @ 421444 • La Rosada, Ave. Belgrano 322 @ 421146

***

Cabañas

• Autocamping Los Sauzales, RP 305, 500 m from town AFR

Accommodation in El Mollar and La Angostura Hosterías F.E.I.A., Main street • El Remanso,

*

AEFLPV

Accommodation on a hacienda

@

421084

$H

1

@ @

491069 491153

$G

2

• Estancia Las Carreras offers accommodation in five rooms with full board. The estancia itself covers 12 000 ha (29 650acres) and crops are fruit and vegetables; they also make cheese. The farmhouse is built on the site of a former indigenous temple. Offers archeological excursions too

Tafí del Valle

766

TUCUMÁN p Sightseeing

The lake itself offers good fishing for trout and pejerrey, and water sports. El Mollar has now also become a tourist resort in its own right, and many Tucumeños have their weekend retreats up here.

•

A Festivals •

• • • • • •

Fiesta de La Ciénaga (Marsh Festival): January Fiesta del Queso (Cheese Festival): February Fiesta de la Verdura: April. Held in El Mollar Fiesta Patronal Nuestra Señora del Carmen: July Fiesta del Canto de los Valles: July Fiesta de la Tradición: November Fiesta Patronal Nuestra Señora de Covadonga: November. Held in El Mollar

s Excursions

•

B Tourist information •

Municipalidad (Town Hall)

E Eating Out • • • • •

Museo La Banda: 10 minutes from Tafí near the junction of Río El Churqui and Río La Banda. This Jesuit chapel was built around 1720. It was acquired by the national trust and after renovations in 1978 now serves as a museum. It is one of the most important Jesuit buildings in north-east Argentina, and shows the distinctive layout of buildings preferred by the Jesuits. There is also an archeological museum and a handicraft market

Restaurant Bar El Paraíso, Avenida Diego de Rojas Restaurant El Ciervo, Avenida Diego de Rojas. Bar Restaurant El Portal de Tafí, Avenida Diego de Rojas Restaurant El Rancho de Félix, Avenida Diego de Rojas 411. Parrilla Restaurant El Pinar de los Ciervos, RP 307 KM 96

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Avenida Campero near Ave. Güemes. • Tucumán ($9.00; 3 hrs); 6 daily; Empresa Aconquija • Cafayate (5 hrs); 2 daily, going past the turnoff to Ruinas de Quilmes • Santa María (3 hrs); 3 daily There is also a direct daily bus to the Ruinas de Quilmes A local bus runs to El Mollar.

•

U Motoring

The trip down to Tucumán is over a sealed road and has some spectacular vistas, especially on reaching the subtropical rain forest. • Y.P.F. service station

•

767

El Mollar: A pre-Colombian menhir park some 10 km south on the slopes of Cerro Nuñorco; the menhirs are reminiscent of those in San Agustín in southern Colombia. Some of the 129 menhirs were brought from other locations. The whole site is well laid out with paths leading to the top of the hill, from where there is a splendid view over the lake and menhirs on the slope and the Sierra de Aconquija in the background. Some menhirs are 2.5 m high; the most interesting one on top of the hill has some incisions which look like some kind of writing. Down on the road, across the river from the hostería, is the Ambrosetti museum. There are facilities for fishing and sailing, and a fish hatchery. A suggested walk is from Tafí along the eastern side of the lake to the menhir park; return by bus to Tafí, but check the bus timetable for the last bus. There are regular municipal buses to El Mollar from Tafí, and it can also be reached on foot Carapunco: 13 km uphill on RP 307. An important archeological site at 3100 m near Abra Infiernillo (Little Hell Pass). Take the bus going to either Cafayate or Santa María and ask the driver to set you down at Carapunco. It is a pleasant walk all the way back down to Tafí with superb views over the Río Tafí valley and the surrounding high peaks, many of them snow-covered all year La Quebradita: In the Zalba curve 2 km above Tafí, La Quebradita is an excavated indigenous dwelling. Take the local bus up and walk back to take photographs Tafí del Valle

TUCUMÁN

Tucumán Population: 510 000 Postal code: 4000 @ area code: (0381) Altitude: 450 m Distances From Buenos Aires: 1312 km north-west on RN 9 • From Salta: 313 km south on RN 9 • From Santiago del Estero: 160 km north-west on RN 9 •

T

ucumán is situated on a wide plain overshadowed in the west by the magnificent Sierra de Aconquija. It is the provincial capital.

It was initially founded in 1565 in Campos de Ibatín by Don Diego de Villaroel, but was transferred to its present location in 1685. There are fine modern buildings and large plazas and parks such as Parque Avellaneda and Parque 9 de Julio with an artificial lake. The house of Bishop Colombres, founder of Argentina’s sugar industry, is here; Colombres introduced the first milling machine early last century. It has an important university and a lively To Taficillo

night life. Tucumán was under the sphere of influence of the Incas: some 6 km west of town the remains of an Inca trail can be seen. It has also many interesting museums. Plaza Independencia is the city’s center. In its vicinity there are still some colonial houses to be seen. On the west side of the Plaza is the government palace, and on the south are major banks, the cathedral, and San Francisco church. Most of the houses are single-storied; above them rise the silhouettes of the city’s churches, some with multicolored tiled domes. Running south from Plaza Independencia is Calle Congreso. Here is the Casa de Independencia (Independence Building), where at the Congreso de Tucumán Argentina declared its independence from Spain. The Casa is described under Sightseeing below. Plaza Belgrano, south-west of Plaza Independencia at the intersection of Bolívar and Bernabé Araoz, is named in honour of the General who defeated the royalist troops outside San Miguel in 1812. His statue stands in the center of the plaza. Calle San Martín is a pedestrian mall between 25 de Mayo and Maipú. Intersecting San Martín is

To Río del Nio

To Salta

305

Tafi Viejo

9

N 315

304

To Buruyacú

To Yerba Buena and San Javier

San Miguel de Tucumán

338 See map Tucumán 1

See map Parque 9 de Julio

li Sa ío R

Banda del Río Sali

To Los Ralos

To San Pablo and Villa Nougués

303

380

9 TUCUMÁN METROPOLITANA

301

To Bellavista

Tucumán

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768

TUCUMÁN •

Calle Buenos Aires, also a pedestrian mall running between San Martín and 24 de Setiembre, and between San Martín and Mendoza. Tucumán is well served by road, rail, and air, and has excellent tourist facilities and good transport connections to tourist sites throughout the province. The A.C.A. provides an excellent map of the province. Note there is an “Avenida Avellaneda” running past Estación Ferrocarril Belgrano and there is also a “M. Avellaneda” running past Estación Ferrocarril Mitre. Outside Tucumán Province, Tucumán is often known simply as “Tucumán”, but within Tucumán itself it is generally known as “San Miguel”. Tucumán is an important seat of learning. The Universidad de Tucumán has ten schools. Because of the hot summers, a siesta time is widely observed. It runs from 12:00 to 16:00 during the summer months, during which time most shops, services, and banks are closed. Included here are the facilities of the small mountain resorts of San Javier, Villa Nougués and Siambón, all located to the west of Tucumán. See also Excursions below.

• •

E Eating out Restaurants • Benito II, 9 de Julio 298. Parrilla • Casa Libanesa, Chacabuco 55 • Club Sirio, Maipú 575. Lebanese cuisine • El Churqui, 25 de Mayo 39 • El Fondo, San Martín 848. Parrilla • La Cantina, San Martín 750 • La Cantina Ristorante, 25 de Mayo 568. Italian cuisine • La Emilia, Laprida 623 • La Esquina, Laprida 205. Also pasta • La Leñita, 25 de Mayo 377. Parrilla • Los Dos Gordos, 24 de Setiembre 464 • Mi Abuela, Maipú 942 Pizzerías • Don Mostacho, 24 de Setiembre 518 Cafeterías • La Oca Express, Laprida 501

n Entertainment

•

Casino Provincial, Avenida Sarmiento 699 near Maipú. Open all year round Cinemas • Atlas, Monteagudo 250 • Majestic, 24 de Setiembre 666 Theaters • Teatro San Martín, Ave. Sarmiento 601 • Teatro Alberdi, Salta near C. Alvarez

A Festivals •

I Post and telegraph

Batalla de Tucumán (Battle of Tucumán): September 24

•

• Secretaría de Turismo de la Provincia, L 24 de Setiembre 484, on the Plaza Independencia @ 4223742 fax & • 4222199/4311472. Open daily (in• cluding Sundays) 07:00–23:00. E-mail: [email protected]. • Very helpful

B Tourist information •

Dirección Municipal de Producción y Turismo, Avenida Avellaneda 190 @ 4300756 fax Dirección de Recursos Naturales y Riego, Córdoba 1039, 1st floor @ 4218158 fax 4218890 Cámara de Turismo de Tucumán, San Lorenzo 378 @ 4311540

769

Post office: Correo Argentino, 25 de Mayo 298 Telephone: Telecom, Muñecas 226

Financial

Maguitur, San Martín 765 @ 4211284. Checks and cash; good rates Cambio Dinar, San Martín 742 @ 4220513 Noroeste Cambios, San Martín 771 @ 4311228 Tucumán

Key to map C I P $

Municipalidad (Town hall) Dirección Municipal de Producción y Turismo A.C.A. Maguitur

3 Accommodation 5 6 8 9 10 12 15 22 37 38 39 53

Hotel California Hotel Miami Hotel America Residencial Universo Residencial Viena Hotel del Jardín Hotel Carlos V Hotel Presidente Hotel República Residencial Royal Residencial Petit Hotel Hotel Versailles

54 Hotel Francia 59 Residencial Impala 66 Hotel Embajador

4 Eating out 3

4 7 16 23 31 40

Restaurant La Cantina Ristorante Restaurant La Emilia Cafetería La Oca Express Restaurant La Leñita Restaurant La Cantina Restaurant El Fondo Restaurant Casa Libanesa

5 Entertainment 1

Casino

6 Airline offices 52 Andesmar

M Services and facilities

64 Aerolíneas Argentinas

7 Tour operators and car rental 11 Localiza 32 Full Sky 65 Movil Renta

9 Sights

51 Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes Timoteo Navarro 58 Iglesia de la Merced

0 Services 2

F C General B Mitre station 14 Dirección de Recursos Naturales y Riego

Photographic supplies • Fotocentro, Buenos Aires 8

around Plaza Independencia and in the pedestrian malls in Calle San Martín and Muñecas. • Fería Artesanal, 24 de Setiembre 347

P Visas, passports

a Sport

•

Visa extensions: Imigraciones, Buenos Aires 2715. Take bus 6

Golf • Jockey Club de Tucumán, San Martín 451 @ 4251038; the golf course is in Yerba Buena, Avenida Solano Vera; 18 holes Golf in Siambón • El Siambón Country Club, RP 341 KM 25.5 El Siambón 4105 @ (0381)4310646/4311600 Golf in Villa Nougués • Golf Club Villa Nougués, Campo La Hortensia @ (0381) 422467 ext. 14618

U Motoring Service stations • A.C.A., C. Alvarez 901 Car rental • Movil Renta, San Lorenzo 370 @ 4218635 • A1 International Rent-a-Car, Congreso 64 @ 4211372 • Avis Rent-a-Car, Congreso 76 @ 4213778/4300670. Also at the airport • Localiza, San Juan 935 @ 4215334/4214100. Small car: $60.00 per day and $0.39 per km plus tax and insurance

p Sightseeing Public buildings • Casa de Gobierno (House of Assembly), 25 de Mayo (on the Plaza Independencia), the seat of provincial legislation • Casa Histórica de la Independencia (Historic Independence Building), Congreso 151. The Congreso de Tucumán met here on July 9, 1816 with delegates from all the Argentine provinces to declare Argentina’s independence from Spain and to draft a constitution. On the wall is a painting of the delegates who participated in this grand reunión. Most of the

T Trains

The F C General B Mitre station is on M Avellaneda. There are three trains per week to Buenos Aires via Santiago del Estero and Rosario • TUFESA Tucumán Ferrocarriles SA, Corrientes 1075 @ 4307100

Y Shopping

Although most shops are closed during the siesta, Tucumán is a place to shop. Most of the trading activities center

Tucumán

770

TUCUMÁN To S.S. de Jujuy

To Salta

To El Sunchal

ESPAÑA

TUCUMÁN

9

AVE. SARMIENTO Plaza Urquiza

1 SANTA FE

2

305

3

N

MARCOS PAZ 4

CORRIENTES Plaza Alberdi

5

7

6

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO

J.COLOMBRES

SAN JUAN

8 9 10

12

11

16

15 14

CÓRDOBA To Santiago del Estero To Termas de Río Hondo

AVE. SAENZ PEÑA

9

AVE. AVELLANEDA

MORENO

59

BALCARCE

58

MONTEAGUDO ENTRE RÍOS

37

I

30

CENTRAL

LAS PIEDRAS

LAS HERAS

CONGRESO

See Tucumán Centro Turístico

RIVADAVIA

Plaza Independencia

9 DE JULIO

SAN LORENZO

CHACABUCO

AYACUCHO

JUJUY

C. ALVAREZ

RIOJA

J.B. ALBERDI

B. ARAOZ

To Villa Nougués

330

LAPRIDA

AVE. 24 DE SETIEMBRE

25 DE MAYO

32

MUÑECAS BUENOS AIRES

$

MAIPÚ

31

JUNÍN

38

23

AVE SALTA

SAN MARTÍN

CATAMARCA

M. AVELLANEDA

To Yerba Buena

338

Pedestrian mall

MENDOZA

22

GENERAL PAZ

LAMADRID

LAVALLE 38 157

To Catamarca

To Simoca

each evening in the garden at 20:30 in a son-et- lumière show. Buy your tickets for this function at the tourist office at 24 de Setiembre. Open daily 09:00–1300 and Mon–Fri also 15:00–19:00

original building was destroyed, but the room where the declaration of independence was signed has survived and has been incorporated into the newer building which is now a museum. Many other historical events took place here and are re-enacted

771

Tucumán

C Accommodation in Tucumán

Cheap accommodation can be found just around from the bus terminal at Residencial Cristal and Residencial Estrella, suitable for budget travelers only. Hotels ***** **** **** **** *** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * * *

• • • •

Grand Hotel de Tucumán, Ave. Soldatti 380 ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$TUVXYZ Fax 4310324 @ 4245000 del Jardín, Laprida 463 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ Fax 4310500 @ 4310173 del Sol, Laprida 35 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ @ 4310119 fax Swiss Metropol, 24 Setiembre 524 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ Fax 4310379 @ 4311180 Carlos V, 25 de Mayo 330 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4311666 fax Colonial, San Martín 35 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4311523 fax Gran Premier, Alvarez 510 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4310381 fax Mediterráneo, 24 de Setiembre 364 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: [email protected] @ 4310025 fax Presidente, Monteagudo 249 ACDEFGHJKLMPRSTUVY Fax 4311474 @ 4311414 República, Rivadavia 71 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4310481 fax Bristol, Laprida 154 AEFGJLPSUV Fax 4219321 @ 4219320/1 Corona, 24 de Setiembre 498 AEFGJLPSUV Fax 4228715 @ 4310985 Embajador, Las Heras 221 AEFGJLPSUV @ 4311264 fax Francia, C. Alvarez 467 AEFGJLPSUV @ 4310781/3 fax Miami, Junín 580 AEFGJLPSUV Fax 4222405 @ 4310265 Versailles, C. Alvarez 481 AEFGJKLPSUV Fax 4229763 @ 4229760/3 América, Santiago del Estero 1064 AELPV Fax 4224190 @ 4300810 California, Corrientes 985 AELPV @ 4213771/5 Garden, C. Alvarez 627 AELPSV @ 4311246 fax King’s, Chacabuco 18 AELPSV @ 4310211 Florida, 24 de Septiembre 610 @ 4310781/3 Palace, 24 de Septiembre 233 @ 4226677 República, Rivadavia 75 @ 4310481 Royal, San Martín 1186 @ 4218697

Residenciales A A A A B B

2

$E

2

$E

2

$E $F $F $F

2 2 2 2

$F

2

$E $E

2 2

$G

2

$F $G $F

2 2 2

$F

2

$G

2

$G $G $G $G

2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @

4310371 4224978 4311136 4310313 4213101 4218697

$G $H $H $H $G $H

2 2 2 2 2 2

@

4617107

$I

1

Country Club El Siambón, RP 314 KM 26 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 4311586 @

4925064

$D

2

Impala, C. Alvarez 277 Petit Hotel, C. Alvarez 765 Universo, Santiago del Estero 1060 Viena, Santiago del Estero 1054 Astoria, Congreso 88 Royal, San Martín 1198

FLP LP LP LP L L

Accommodation in Tafí Viejo Tafí Viejo is a small town just 10 km north of Tucumán *

$D

Hostería Tafí Viejo, Paysandú

Accommodation in Siambón ***

Tucumán

772

TUCUMÁN Accommodation in Tucumán — continued Accommodation in San Javier **

Club Sol San Javier, RP 340 KM 12 Fax 4229241

AEFGJLPSUV

Accommodation in Yerba Buena *

Albergue Jardín de la República, Juan XXIII AELPV

Accommodation in Villa Nougués • Hotel Villa Lolette

@

4929004

@

4251136

@

(0381) 4221515/4310048

$F

2

Museums Most museums are open daily 09:00–12:00 and 16:00–20:00. Admission is free. • Casa del Obispo Colombres (Bishop Colombres’ House), Parque 9 de Julio, an eighteenth-century construction which belonged to Bishop José E Colombres, the founder of Tucumán’s sugar industry. There is on exhibit the first sugar mill, built around 1821 • Plaza Belgrano was originally part of the Campo de las Carreras, where the battle of Tucumán was fought in 1812 • Museo Folklórico Provincial (Provincial Folklore Museum), 24 de Setiembre 565, used to be the home of the family of Bishop Colombres. Open Mon–Sun 09:30–13:00 and 16:00–21:15

Churches • Cathedral, on Plaza de la Independencia. The original wooden cross of the first foundation at Ibatín is preserved here. The first church built on this site was in in 1685 • Iglesia de la Merced (Church of Mercy), corner of Rivadavia and 24 de Setiembre. La Virgen de la Merced (Virgin of Mercy) was declared General of the Argentine forces by General Belgrano. Also kept here is the cane with the golden handle given to General Manuel Belgrano after victory in the Battle of Carreras in 1812 • Iglesia San Francisco on Plaza de la Independencia. This historical building served as the accommodation for the participants of the Congreso de Tucumán. Rebuilt in 1879–1885

R Air services from Tucumán

Aeropuerto Benjamín Matienzo is 9 km from the center of the city. There are discounts for night flights. Airlines • Aerolíneas Argentinas, 9 de Julio 112 (corner of San Lorenzo) @ 4310747 • DINAR Líneas Aéreas, 9 de Julio near 24 de Septiembre @ 4212964 • Andesmar, 9 de Julio 72 @ 4304517 • Southern Winds, 9 de Julio 77 @ 4225554; e- mail:[email protected] • LAPA, C. Alvarez 620 1st floor @ 430630 Services •

Destination Buenos Aires

• • • • • • • •

Catamarca Chilecito Córdoba La Rioja Mendoza Rosario Salta San Luis

Fare $40.00 $152.00 $80.00 $141.00 $146.00 $146.00 $35.00 $141.00

Services 5 daily 2 weekly 2 weekly 1–2 daily 1 weekly 1 daily 5 weekly 1–2 daily 3 weekly

Duration Airline 13 4 Aerolíneas Argentinas, Dinar, LaAPA 1 2 Andesmar 3 Andesmar 11 4 Andesmar, S.W. 1 Aerolíneas Argentinas, Andesmar 51 2 Andesmar, S.W. 21 2 Andesmar 3 4 Andesmar, LAPA, SW 5 Andesmar

773

Tucumán

•

Fundación Miguel Lillo (Miguel Lillo Foundation), Miguel Lillo 205, has a herbarium containing 600 000 items, and paleontological, geological, and other scientific collections. The library possesses a copy of the rare and valuable original edition of Von Humboldt’s Travels in Spanish America. Miguel Lillo was a scientist who started the collection; his burial place is in the botanical garden surrounded

•

TUCUMÁN CENTRO TURISTICO

CÓRDOBA

•

D

20

E

21 MENDOZA

26

29

28

24 25

27

35 36

RIVADAVIA

33

In P de laz pe a nd en cia

LAPRIDA

MAIPÚ

MUÑECAS

B

34

25 DE MAYO

SAN MARTÍN

•

AVE. 24 DE SETIEMBRE

61

54 55 56 57

LAS HERAS

51 47

C. ALVAREZ

9 DE JULIO

60

A

48 49 50

43 44 45 46

CONGRESO

42

BUENOS AIRES

CHACABUCO

41

63 62

N

•

SAN LORENZO

Key to map A B D E

Catedral Casa de Gobierno Correo Argentino Telecom Argentina

3 Accommodation 28 35 41 42 44 48 55 57 61

Hotel Bristol Hotel del Sol Hotel King’s Hotel Garden Hotel Swiss Metropol Hotel Corona Hotel Mediterráneo Residencial Astoria Hotel Gran Premier

4 Eating out

21 Restaurant La Esquina 26 Restaurant El Churqui

Tucumán

by northern Argentine trees. Open Mon–Fri 08:30–12:30 and 14:00–18:00 Museo de Antropologia, Prehistoria, y Arqueologia (Anthropolgy, Prehistory, and Archeology Museum), 25 de Mayo 265, founded by Frenchman Alfred Metraux. On exhibit are archeological artefacts from the region (especially of the Tafí, Candelaria, and Santa María cultures), and also funeral urns and ceramics from Peru, Bolivia, and the Americas in general. Good exhibits on the Chaco peoples, the Chiriguanos, and the Tobas. Open Mon–Sun 10:00–13:00 and 16:00–21:00 Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes Timoteo Navarro (Timoteo Navarro Provincial Fine Arts Museum), 9 de Julio 48. This building was originally the head office of the provincial bank. Now it houses sculptures of national and international artists. Open daily except Monday Museo Histórico de Provincia Presidente Nicolás Avellaneda, Congreso 56, has exhibits on the history of Tucumán Province from the earliest times to the twentieth century. Furniture and pictures as well as documents and a well-endowed library specialising in the history of the north west. Open Mon–Sat 09:00–12:30 and 17:00–20:30 Museo Casa Padilla (Padilla House Museum), 25 de Mayo 36. The house was built in 1860 and belonged to the

45 Pizzería Don Mostacho 50 Restaurant Los Dos Gordos 62 Restaurant Benito II

6 Airline offices

46 DINAR Líneas Aéreas 47 Southern Winds 60 LAPA

25 Iglesia San Francisco 33 Museo Folklórico Provincial 34 Museo Casa Padilla 51 Museo de Bellas Artes Timoteo Navarro 54 Museo Histórico de Provincia Presidente Nicolás Avellaneda 63 Casa de la Independencia

7 Tour operators and car rental 0 Services 29 Panorama 56 Avis Rent-a-Car and A1 International Rent-a-Car

9 Sights

20 Museo de Antropologia, Prehistoria, y Arqueologia

774

24 27 36 43 49

Cambio Dinar Jockey Club de Tucumán Fería Artesanal Fotocentro Secretaría de Turismo de la Provincia

TUCUMÁN S Buses from Tucumán

The bus terminal is on Brigido Terán 250 @ 4304696/4222221. Urban buses begin at 05:30 and run until 01:00. Bus companies • A2 El Aconquija, local 65–66 @ 4227620/4330273 ° Amaicha del Valle ($14.00) via San Pablo, Lules, Famaillá, Acheral, Tafí del Valle ($10.00; 3 hrs), and El Infiernillo; 4 daily ° Cafayate ($21.00) via Acheral, Tafí de Valle, Amaicha del Valle, Colalao del Valle ($18.00; 6 hrs); 2–3 daily ° Ruinas de Quilmes ($17.00; 6 hrs); 1 daily ° Santa María ($16.00, 5 hrs) via Acheral, Santa Lucía, La Angostura, El Mollar (Menhirs!), Tafí de Valle, Pueblo de Quilmes; 4 daily ° Tafí del Valle (3 hrs) via Lules, Famaillá, Acheral, Las Mesadas, La Angostura, and El Mollar ($9.00) ; 5 daily • A9 Atahualpa @ 4311866 • A11 Autotransporte San Juan Mar del Plata @ 4210119 • A13 Benjamín Aráoz @ 4261113 ° Laguna de Robles via Ramada and Burruyacu ; 3 daily • A16 Bosio, @ 4228940 ° Catamarca via Concepción, Aguilares, and J.B. Alberdi; 6 daily ° Los Pizarros($6.20) via Monteros, Concepción, Aguilares, J.B. Alberdi, La Cocha; 1 daily • A23 CACORBA @ 4226111 • A28 Central Argentino @ 4305156/4222821 • A33 T.A. Chevallier @ 4210805/4222333/4311502 • A37 Expreso Panamericano @ 4310544/4244402 • A54 El Centauro ° Famaillá; 36 daily • A55 El Cóndor @ 4364673/74 • A67 El Ranchilleno, Francia 90 @ 4222220 ° Raco ($5.80, 11 2 hrs) via Los Nogales and Tapia; 6 daily ° El Siambón ($6.50, 11 2 hrs) via Los Nogales ($3.00) and Tapia ; 7 daily • A77 El Tucumano ° Concepción • A81 Empresa Andesmar @ 4225702 • A85 Empresa Balut, local 41 @ 4307153 • A92 Empresa General Urquiza, local 19 @ 4226119 ° Rosario (11 hrs) via Termas de Río Hondo, Santiago del Estero, Fernández , Ceres (61 2 hrs) and Rafaela ; 1 daily • A94 Empresa Gutiérrez, local 9/10 @ 4228801/4210633 ° Andalgalá (63 4 hrs) Mon and Sat 07:00, Tues, Thurs and Fri. 13:15 ° Belén (91 2 hrs); Mon, Wed, Fri • A97 Empresa Itatí @ 4212098 • A155 La Estrella @ 4210480/4227582 • A163 Cooperativa La Unión, Ave. S. Peña 383 @ 4310653 • A164 La Veloz del Norte @ 4222274/4223431/4217860 • A211 T.A.C. @ 4306663 • A330 El Trébol @ 4210822/4330226 ° J.B. Alberdi via Monteros, Concepción ($3.50) andAguilares; 11 daily

775

Tucumán

Buses from Tucumán — continued Bus companies with local services only • Posta @ 4226442/4245900 ° Chicligasta ($7.00; 3 hrs; Spanish colonial church!) via Bella Vista, Río Colorado, Simoca, and Atahona ; 3 daily 06:00–16:30 ° San Pedro de Colalao via Trancas; 3 daily ° Simoca via Bella Vista andRío Colorado; 21 daily ° Taco Ralo (3 hrs) via Simoca, Monteagudo, and La Madrid ; 8 daily, 04:45– 20:40 • San Pedro de Colalao @ 4211562/4220205 ° Gonzalo ($8.50; 3 hrs) via Tapia, Vipos, Choromoro, Chuscha, and La Higuera ; Mon–Fri 12:00 ° Hualinchay (3 hrs); Mon–Fri 06:00 ° San Pedro de Colalao; 4 daily ° San Pedro de Colalao ($8.50; 13 4 hrs) via Tapia ,Vipos, Choromoro, Benjamín Paz and Trancas (colonial church!); 7 daily, first 06:00 last 22:00 • Línea 118 @ 4231442 ° San Javier; 5 daily ° Villa Nougués; 2 daily • El Corcel SA ° Yerba Buena • Expreso del Oeste SA @ 4213951 ° Aguilares via Famailla, Monteros, and Concepción Long-distance services •

Destination Buenos Aires

Fare $65.00

Services 12 daily

• •

Catamarca Córdoba

$10.00 $28.00

6 daily 12 daily

• •

Corrientes Jujuy

$36.00 $19.50

1 daily 8 daily

• • • • • • • •

La Rioja Mendoza Pocitos Posadas Puerto Iguazú Resistencia Rosario Salta

$26.00 $48.00 $33.00

6 daily 4 daily 4 daily

$32.00 $42.00 $17.00

1 daily 2 daily 12 daily 10 daily

• • •

San Juan $39.00 Santa Fe $38.00 Santiago del Estero $6.00 Termas de Río Hondo $5.00

•

4 daily 2 daily

Duration Company 16 A9, A13, A23, A33, A77, A155, A164, A211 41 2 A16,, A81, A94, A155, A211 81 2 A9, A16, A23, A33, A37, A77, A85, A155, A164, 13 51 2 A9, A16, A37, A77, A81, A85, A155, A164 41 2 A16, A81, A155, A211 151 2 A16, A81, A155, A211 A9, A81 A97 A97 14 A164 141 2 A9, A33, A77, A155, A164 41 2 A9, A16, A37, A77, A81, A85, A155, A164 13 A81, A155, A211 12 A155

24 daily

2

11 2 A23, A77, A163, A164

20 daily

Open Tues–Sun 09:30–17:30 and 17:30–20:30

Padilla Family. Now it houses the Museo de la Ciudad (City Museum). It has a valuable picture gallery and a collection of China ware from the tenth century–eighteenth century.

Tucumán

A23, A28, A33, A77, A163, A164

776

TUCUMÁN HONDURAS

CORRIENTES

modern steam-driven crushing plant was installed. There are also portraits of the Governors of Tucumán, painted by Lola Mora. The park is a favorite outdoor and sports ground for Tucumeños, as the residents of Tucumán are known, with a sports complex and a lawn tennis club; there is also a branch of the University of Tucumán and the Casa de la Cultura. You can go boating on the peaceful little Lago San Miguel. Kiosks and small restaurants cater for the hungry and thirsty. The former campsites are closed now

TUCUMÁN PARQUE 9 DE JULIO

S. DEL ESTERO HAITI

13 SAN JUAN

GUATEMALA 18

Parque 9 de Julio

17 CUBA

MENDOZA

A JAQUES

30 S. MARTÍN BALCARCE

AVE. AVELLANEDA

I

FRANCIA

AVE. SOLDATTI

CÓRDOBA

N

To Santiago del Estero

67

AVE. A. TERAN

CHARCAS

DIAZ VELEZ

AVE. SAENZ PEÑA

MORENO

s Excursions

9

AVE. BENJAMIN ARAOZ

24 DE SETIEMBRE

Tour operators • Full Sky, Junín 51 @ 4304686/4214412 fax • Maguitur, San Martín 765 @ 4217202/4211284 fax Excursions • RP 338 is a scenic road over the Cumbres de San Javier. A few kilometers past Yerba Buena a steep winding road leads up to Anta Muerta, at 1220 m, with a small hostería at the crest. Nearby is a statue of Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer). At Anta Muerta you have a choice to return to San Miguel via RP 338 and make a stopover in Villa Nougués or continue north to Tipas. It is a very scenic drive, especially near San Javier. It is possible to use public transport but it is worth going by tour bus. For accommodation in Yerba Buena see under Tucumán on page 773 • Dique Celestino Gelsi (Celestino Gelsi Dam): Traveling 26 km north on RN 9 then RP 347 through mostly citrus orchards you arrive at the gorge of the Río Salí. At this spot the river was dammed to supply electricity and water for the city and to irrigate some 60 000 ha (148 260 acres) of otherwise unusable land. This is a favorite weekend retreat of the Tucumeños with yachting, water-skiing, fishing, and swimming facilities. There are many campsites (such as that run by the A.C.A.) and restaurants but no hotel. The Complejo Turístico Río

Key to map T

Bus terminal

3 Accommodation

18 Hotel Grand Hotel de Tucumán 30 Hotel Colonial

9 Sights

13 Casa del Obispo Colombres

0 Services

17 Empresa Gutiérrez 67 Estación Santa Cruz

Parks • Parque 9 de Julio, bounded to the south by Avenida Benjamín Araos, to the north by Avenida Gobernador del Campo, to the east by Avenida General Suárez, and to the west by Avenida Soldatti. Approximately 400 ha, the park was designed by a French architect. The outline of this beautiful garden follows geometrical designs. The summer residence of Bishop Colombres is near the Avenida Soldatti entrance, and is now a museum, paying tribute to the pioneer of sugar cane farming in Tucumán and probably Argentina. On exhibit are the first sugar cane crushing machines used until a

777

Tucumán

•

•

Loro on the south side of the lake has beaches, wooded areas, tables, and kiosks. There is an amphitheatre near the lake in which plays are performed during summer. In the fish hatchery area tapirs roam freely. Near the amphitheatre is Museo Arqueológico Ernesto Padilla (Ernesto Paddilla Archeological Museum). The lake has frequent bus services to and from Tucumán bus terminal. Tour operators run three-hour tours, including one along the Río Tapia valley up to Raco, a summer holiday village in the mountains, and another to the Benedictine monastery Cristo Rey To Raco and Siambón. Raco (1100 m) is located 52 km north-west in the upper Río Tapia valley reached via RP 338 then RP 340. Raco’s foundation goes back to the seventeenth century. Its mild climate attracts many visitors all year round. Trout fishing is possible in the Río Raco and Río Siambón. Local crafts include leather chairs and woven quilts. Siambón, a small village, is 10 km further south along RP 340 passing on the way a Benedictine monastery. The monks keep bees for the production of royal jelly. In Siambón is El Siambón Country Club with a magnificent 18 hole golf course where national tournaments are held. The country club has accommodation for golf lovers. Buses El Ranchilleño have six daily; the scenic drive starts at Tapia where RP 341 enters the Río Tapia valley. To the west are the Cumbres de Cabra Horco reaching 2840 m Villa Nougués is located in the Cumbres de San Javier some 35 km west on RP 338. Situated at an altitude of 1250 m, it has a very enjoyable climate all year round and many Tucumeños have built their summer cottages here. You leave town on RP 380 going first through the industrial suburbs of Manantial. The road runs through flat country until Mundo Nuevo, from where it starts climbing the mountain twisting steeply and giving ever more sweeping views over the plain of Tucumán and the city itself. The pretty Gothic-style church is a curiosity and

Tucumán

•

•

•

778

very photogenic. Villa Nougués Golf Club is located at Campo La Hortensia. Some 2 km from the golf course is Estancia Villa Nougués with several guest rooms, swimming pool and tennis courts. Most tour operators include Villa Nougués on their itinerary because of the scenic drive leading there. Línea 118 runs five daily from the bus terminal; 1 hour Lules: 20 km south-west on RP 380 at an altitude of 415 m, is a small town of 12 000 inhabitants. Of interest are the Jesuit mission ruins of San José de Lules 3 km north of Lules. The mission was founded in 1613 and was a flourishing center until the expulsion of the Jesuits. After years of neglect the monastery was acquired in 1781 by the Dominican friars, who built a new church. Only the church has remained of all the former buildings. Lules is also the starting point to visit the Quebrada de Lules. Here the Río Lules runs for some distance through a narrow passage. Nearby are the factories of Papel de Tucumán using electricity generated by the power station built on the Río Lules. There are regular municipal buses from Tucumán Chicligasta is a small village 90 km south reached via RN 157 then RP 32. It is located on the Río Gastona just before it empties into the Embalse Río Hondo. It has an old church which has been declared a national monument, but because it is off the beaten track it is rarely visited. The date inscribed above the door reads 1797, but it is thought that the church’s original foundation was 200 years earlier. The walls are painted with religious murals and there is an old image of the Virgen del Candelaria (Virgin of the Candle) which is venerated. San Francisco Solano, South America’s first saint, preached here. It is sometimes included on guided tours but Empresa Posta has three daily via Atahona; fares $7.00. There are no tourist facilities Tafí del Valle: This is one of the most interesting trips from San Miguel. The road first passes through the

TUCUMÁN

•

•

•

•

sugar cane belt and then turns west into RP 307 near Acheral. Gradually the road enters the mountains, here covered with dense subtropical growth. At La Angostura the valley and Lago El Mollar are reached. Just past the village on the left is the turn-off to the archeological site Parque Menhir. Buses Aconquija have frequent daily buses to El Mollar; fares $8.50, return fare to Tucumán $15.00. Tour operators organize 10-hour day trips. See Tafí del Valle on page 765 Amaicha del Valle and Quilmes: Some tour operators going to the Ruinas de Quilmes include Amaicha del Valle. This is an Indian community that holds colourful fiestas. See Amaicha del Valle on page 758 and Quilmes on page 762. Buses Aconquija have frequent daily buses to Amaicha, fare $13.00 and to Ruinas de Quilmes, fare $16.00 from Tucumán. Tour operators usually include Ruinas de Quilmes, Amaicha del Valle and the Parque de Menhires near El Mollar in one-day trips Ibatín 52 km south of present-day Tucumán via RN 38 is the site where the original Tucumán was founded in 1565. It is also known as Tucumán Viejo. Take an El Trébol bus to Ingenio Santa Rosa; where the bus stops is a sign pointing to Ibatín, a 5 km or one hour’s brisk walk. The entrance to the archeological site has a mural inscribed “Ibatín”. Inside the archeological site the outlines of the original buildings can still be traced. Most of the trip from Tucumán is through sugar cane fields. Just before Famaillá RP 308 joins RN38 Los Pizarros: Off RN 38 from La Cocha. You can visit the Jesuit mission church of San Ignacio dating from 1746, a national monument surrounded by an old cemetery. Inside the church are valuable art works such as the paintings of La Inmaculada Concepción and San Francisco Xavier. Buses Bossio have daily services to Los Pizarros via La Cocha from the terminal; three hours. See also Excursions from Juan B Alberdi on page 760

•

•

779

Dique Escaba: An interesting excursion can be made to the hydroelectric scheme at Dique Escaba in the Silleta de los Higueras mountains. Take the bus from the bus terminal to Juan B Alberdi, where you change buses to ascend the mountain Trancas, altitude 782 m with 1500 inhabitants, is located 79 km north on RN 9 near the border with Salta. About 2 km from the modern township is Villa Vieja, the original foundation of Trancas. When Don Mercado y Villacorta arrived here during his conquest of the Calchaqui peoples, the first baptism of Indians was carried out here. Around this place a small village grew and became a parish. The vanguard of the royalist troops were captured here in 1812. In 1816 in front of the church the republic of Tucumán was proclaimed by General Bernabé Araoz. He was executed in 1824 and his remains rest to the right of the main altar. Of interest is the Hermitage of San Francisco Solano in Villa Viejo. Nearby are the remains of a Jesuit mission church, built in 1761 and destroyed by an earthquake in 1827. It is a national monument. The trip to Trancas is usually combined with a trip to San Pedro de Colalao. Thre is no accommodation in Trancas. Empresa San Pedro de Colalao runs eight buses daily taking 21 2 hours, and four daily continue to San Pedro de Colalao San Pedro de Colalao is at the junction of the Río Tipas and the Río Tacanas some 90 km north of San Miguel. The area is fairly densely covered with subtropical vegetation which gives shelter to an immense variety of bird life: parakeets, loros, and a colorful finch. Locals claim that in the mountains there are still condors, vicuñas, and definitely alpacas. The highest point is Cerro Alto de la Mina at 4762 m. Up to 3000 m the mountains are covered with shrubs, and above that they are bare. In winter the range is covered with snow. The air is crystal clear and certainly unpolluted. It is an area for the outdoor enthusiast with interesting hiking possibilities and also has many

Tucumán

•

archeological sites. Empresa San Pedro de Colalao runs daily buses to San Pedro (fare $8.00, return $12.00) and to nearby Hualinchay The village of Simoca, 4500 inhabitants, is located in the sugar cane belt 44 km south of Tucumán on RN 157. It was founded towards the end of the seventeenth century. Nowadays it is well known for its colorful Saturday morning markets, where the villagers from the district sell their produce from makeshift stands. This trip can

•

be combined with a trip further south to Lamadrid and Taco Ralo. See page 764 To La Ramada and Burruyaco located in the Chaco north-west of San Miguel. Few tourists come to this destination. There is no accommodation. Buses Benjamín Araoz have three daily and go on to Laguna Los Robles on the border with Salta

STOPOVERS

I

n this section I have listed those towns which are not on the normal tourist trail but have some facilities. Monteros Nearest town described: Concepción de la Ramada 21 km south on RN 38 (page 759) • Hotel Congreso, Congreso 48 @ (03863) 426752

Aguilares Nearest town described: Concepción de la Ramada 11 km north on RN 38 (page 759) • Hotel Aguilares, J.B. Alberdi 1222 @ (03865) 481388

Tucumán

780

SALTA SALTAPROVINCES N–W Salta

Plate 18 783 784 786 787 789 790 791 793

Map of Salta Province Angastaco Cachi Cafayate Map Metán Molinos Orán Pocitos

CSUrst BCSUbpqrst BCDEISUYZpst ACSrs BCDSs ACEJKLPSTv CSQ

793 Rosario de la Frontera CSUaei 794 Salta ABCDEnILPRSTUVWXYZYab 796 Map efgiopqrstuv 800 Map of city center 804 Map of area around Salta 810 San Antonio de los Cobres ACSTbsuv 812 Tartagal CELPQSUsu 814 Stopovers C alta is one of the most interesting provinces of Argentina; it was settled by Spaniards descending from Peru. Salta Province has 870 000 inhabitants with the biggest cities being Salta, Orán, Tartagal, Metán, General Güemes, Rosario de la Frontera, Rosario de Lerma, and Pocitos. The landscape is very varied: from the altiplano with its Indian population to subtropical valleys and huge dams—Salta has it all. The climate is influenced by altitude. There is a very pronounced wet season during the summer months in the eastern part of the province. The best time to visit is from April to November.

S

northern; Jujuy Province nestles in the north-western inner curve; and on the outer curve from north-east to

Crescent-shaped Salta shares borders with Chile on the western horn and Bolivia and Paraguay on the

781

Salta

south-west are Formosa, Chaco, Santiago del Estero, Tucumán, and Catamarca. The climate of the north-eastern region ranges from tropical to subtropical, and Salta city and the Río Lerma valley are moderate to subtropical. The western region consists of the altiplano, with a fairly cold climate, and mostly inhabited by the descendants of the Diaguita Indians. The provincial capital, also called Salta, is located 1617 km north-west from Buenos Aires. The road network covers approximately 9000 km, of which about half is sealed. The highest mountains of the province are around San Antonio de los Cobres and Cachi, where many peaks exceed 6000 m, such as Llullaillaco at 6723 m, Nevado del Cachi at 6720 m, Nevado del Chani at 6200 m, and Nevado Queva at 6130 m. Salta Province is still largely agricultural. Its main crops are poroto, maize, sugar cane, and wine. Its mineral products include oil and natural gas, and to a lesser degree silver, lead, onyx, and gemstones. Beef cattle are farmed, and there are approximately 15 000 head of llamas and alpacas. Forest products are also of great importance, and include quebracho blanco, cedar, and timber for railroad sleepers. In and around San Antonio is the original chinchilla fur production area. Textiles made from alpaca and vicuña wool are manufactured here; they are very expensive. The Jesuits left their legacy in the form of mission churches which are scattered all over the province. There are also some fortresses and pucarás built by the local Diaguita

Salta

people to defend themselves against the invading Incas.

National Parks

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•

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Parque Nacional El Rey is the most accessible national park located some 196 km east of Salta city reached on RN 34/9, RP 5 and RP 20. It cover 44 160 ha (109 120 acres) and is set among hills ranging from 900 to 1500 m, with clear streams providing good fishing for bagres and dorados. The flora includes palo borracho, palo barroso, and giant cedars. The wildlife includes spiny anteaters, monkeys, pumas, jaguars, eagles, mountain turkeys, and snakes, notably cascabel and coral snakes. The forests have a colorful bird life. Hostería El Rey, 10km from park entrance is now closed. The nearest town is Metán. Buses La Veloz del Norte has two services daily plying RP 5 but from the turnoff at Las Víboras it is still nearly 50 km to the national park entrance. Best done with a tour operator from Salta Parque Nacional Los Cardones is 71 000 ha (175 440 acres) in area. It includes the Cuesta del Obispo, the Valle Encantado, Cachipampa, and the straight of Tin-Tin on the road to Cachi. It is 13 km from Payogasta and 25 km from Cachi. This is a mountainous park whose peaks reach from 2700 m to the 5000 m Cerro Macante. At this altitude there are no dense woods or tall trees, but only scrub, thorn bushes and cacti — tall cardones cacti — and grassland. The fauna includes the almost extinct taruca or northern huemul (a type of stag), pumas, foxes, vizcachas, mountain cats,

SALTA

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and condors; also the endangered comadreja, a small nocturnal animal. The whole park is traversed by RP 33. The most interesting part coming from Salta is between Chicoana and Piedra de Molino where the road climbs the Quebrada de Escoipe. There is an interesting hike downhill through Quebrada de Escoipe. Empresa Marcos Rueda runs two services daily between Salta and Cachi running through the full length of the park Parque Nacional Baritú is the least accessible national park and therefore almost untouched by the onslaught of civilization—it has no tourist facilities at all. Located 70 km north of Orán and measures 72 000 ha (177 900 acres) in area it consists mostly of tree savanna. It is the last refuge in this part of Argentina for a variety of wildlife—pumas, tapirs, jaguars, squirrels and monkeys. Most of the rainfall occurs during summer, but plenty of rain falls throughout the year, producing in parts of the park a dense jungle traversed by rivers such as the Río Lipeo, Baritú, and Pescado before they join the Río Bermejo.

It is interesting to note that most of the sediments deposited at the mouth of the Río de la Plata has its origen in the headwaters of the Río Bermejo and this sediment carried downstream is also responsible for the coloring of the Río Paraná. The valleys in this national park are reminiscent of the yungas in Bolivia. During the wet season December to March it is not advisable to visit this area. There are several other provincial parks and reserves planned such as Parque Arqueológico Provincial Santa Rosa; Reserva Provincial los Palmares, a flora and fauna reserve of 6000 ha (14 826 acres) in the Departmento Anta to preserve flora and fauna of a chaco forest; and Reserva Provincial Valle Acabuco, located in the eastern part of the province. These areas are still out of bounds for the ordinary tourist but tour operators are exploring these remote areas in the eastern part of the province to open them up for tourism.

ANGASTACO

Angastaco Postal code: 4427 Altitude: 1990 m Distance from Salta: 258 km south-west on RN 68 then RN 40, via Cafayate

A

ngastaco is located in the upper Río Calchaquí valley, 2 km off the main road. The new church is built in the old Jesuit style and is very picturesque. Angastaco La Vieja (Old Angastaco) is about half a kilometer down towards the canyon. The original Jesuit mission church of El Carmen is located a short distance towards the quebrada; it has been declared a national monument.

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Angastaco

U Motoring

There is no electricity at night time. Also, be prepared for cold nights. The local wine is known as “Vino Patera”; the grapes are crushed by treading in vats.

The unsealed road to Cachi passes through many semi-desert sandy stretches which become boggy during rain; at such time the road may become impassable. The valley is very wide, and the mountains on the western side are close and very rugged. Hitchhiking to Cachi is difficult as there is very little traffic. The best time is early in the morning; ask the manager of the Y.P.F. service station if he is aware of anybody going to Cachi. • Service station: Y.P.F., just before the main Plaza F

C Accommodation **

• • •

Hostería de Angastaco, on the main Plaza AEFGJLPUV @ 086891123 $G 2 Residencial Los Cardones $J 1 Residencial Bastrán, off the main Plaza E Albergue Municipal, dormitory type accommodation AF; 34 bunks

S Buses • •

s Excursions

El Indio runs daily services to Cafayate ($6.00; 3 hrs) leaving 06:00 and Sun 16:00 Marcos Rueda runs a service on Fri to Salta ($25.00; 91 4 hrs) via Cachi ($7.70; 4 hrs) leaving at 11:10

•

•

The quebradas and mountains to the west of Angastaco are worth exploring. There are pre- Colombian settlements in the valleys Molinos: Has a beautiful restored Jesuit mission church. See page 790

CACHI

Cachi Population: 1500 Postal code: 4417 @ area code: (03868) Altitude: 2280 m Distance from Salta: 157 km west on RP 33, a very picturesque drive

C

achi is located near the origins of the Río Calchaquí in a beautiful, wide valley with the snow-capped peak of Nevado del Cachi beckoning behind the town. It is the second most important town in the Calchaquí valley. The town’s origins go back to pre-Colombian times (“Cachi” means “salt” in Quechua). The climate is healthy and invigorating all year round, with cold spells between June and August. The townspeople are renowned for their weaving skills. Cachi is also the center of a pepper-growing area (“pimentón”). Time seems to stand still in Cachi — street names are not displayed. Archeological sites abound in the vicinity and for those interested in history, archeology and mountaineering, Cachi is the perfect base. Cachi Adentro is a small village 6 km west in the shade of Nevado del Cachi. This is a picturesque traditional place. Excursions to nearby archeological sites mountain climbing and fishing. There is a colectivo service and small residencial. Cachi

Also included under Excursions is the little township of La Poma with its facilities shown under the appropriate headings.

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SALTA B Tourist information

p Sightseeing

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There is a tourist information office in the Municipalidad @ 491053.

C Accommodation

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Cachi suffers from a shortage of accommodation, especially during the holiday seasons. The tourist office in the Municipalidad has addresses of families offering budget accommodation ($I/J). ** Hostería A.C.A. Sol del Valle, Avenida General Güemes AEFGJLPUV @ 491105 $G 2.. Superb location on a hill overlooking the town, with vistas of Nevado del Cachi B Residencial Nevado de Cachi, Ruiz de los Llanos around the corner from Marcos Rueda bus station L $H 2.. Good restaurant • Albergue Municipal, at the sports ground also camp site @ 491053 $J 1. Mostly occupied by visiting sports groups; shared bedrooms Accommodation in Cachi Adentro • Hotel Samay Huasi, La Aguada @ (0387)4237467 $G 2 ** Hostería Casa del Molino, 4 km AEFGJLPUV @ 491094 fax $F 2

s Excursions

• •

D Camping •

Camping Municipal, $I 1

S Buses •

Empresa Marcos Rueda, Cnel R. Llanos @ 491063 ° Salta ($15.00; 5 hrs); 2 daily at 09:00 and 15:30. This is a scenic trip via the Quebrada del Obispo, Quebrada de Escoipe and through the Parque Nacional Los Cardones ° La Poma ($5.50; 3 hrs) via Pueblo Viejo; 2 weekly. This is a scenic trip into the upper Río Calchaquí valley ° Cafayate via Seclantás, Molinos ($6.50; 2 hrs), Angastaco ($7.70; 4 hrs), and San Carlos; 1 weekly. This is also a scenic trip

U Motoring •

Archeological museum, on the main plaza. On exhibit is the “Dama de Cachi”, a mummy in perfect preservation; worth a visit Iglesia de San José de Cachi was built in the middle of the eighteenth century. The floors and roof are built from cactus wood

Service station: A.C.A., RN 40 KM 1237

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Archeological sites of La Paya and Potrero de Payogasta: Just 20 km from Cachi Salta: The trip between Salta and Cachi is an absolute must when you are visiting Salta Province. Here I describe the trip from Cachi to Salta. The road over the Cuesta del Obispo first crosses the Río Calchaquí and follows it on the eastern bank for quite some time. At Payogasta RP 33 joins RN 40 which runs directly northwards to San Antonio. Gradually the road ascends, affording splendid views of the Nevado del Cachi—for the best views sit on the left-hand side of the vehicle. As you reach the altiplano at an altitude of over 3000 m, you cross a wide plain covered with ichu grass, a type of spinifex grass only found at high altitudes; here the road is known as the Straight of Tin-Tin. Just before the long winding descent there is a rest-house where the bus drivers usually have a break before descending abruptly into the Cuesta de Escoipe. As the road winds down steeply into the valley, little streams emerge from beneath the rocks to become waterfalls on both walls of the canyon. Many canyons join the main valley, until halfway down the slope it is several kilometers wide but the road is still a long way above the valley floor. Halfway down is the Hostería Ichicoana where bus drivers stop for lunch. The most spectacular part of the drive is from the rest-house at the top of the Quebrada de Escoipe to Ichicoana, but it is still interesting all the way to the township of Chicoana in the Río Lerma valley. The water coming down from the mountains is cold and crystal clear. It is good hiking

Cachi

•

•

country. Just before the junction of two rivers there is an interesting church perched on a cliff. Immediately after this view you cross the river over a dilapidated bridge and the road narrows once more as it reaches the valley floor. Entering Chicoana you cross the river again, and on leaving the town the bus crosses this bridge once again. In Chicoana there is the Hostería Chicoana on the corner of the main Plaza and Calle España. The road is sealed from Chicoana to Salta. See also Salta on page 794 and Chicoana under Excursions from Salta on page 806 Nevado del Cachi: Cachi is the starting point for scaling the Nevado del Cachi, and for walks in the mountainous area to the west La Poma: Local buses run further up the Río Calchaquí valley. The mountain scenery is impressive, with the

•

Sierra de Pastos Grandes forming the western side of the valley. The mountain peaks reach between 5500 and 6000 m—Cerro Ciénaga Grande is 6030 m high. Marcos Rueda buses have services on Tues (13:00), Wed (07:00) and Sat (13:00) from Salta via Cachi returning to Salta via Cachi on Wed (06:45), Thurs (13:15) and Sun (13:15). Fares from Salta $19.50 taking 9 hours Molinos and Seclantás: Two little villages located 46 km south. Steeped in pre-Hispanc and Jesuit history. With Cachi as a base it is suggested that you make a day trip to these two villages. Daily regular buses to Molinos but only one weekly bus service beyond Molinos to Cafayate

CAFAYATE

Cafayate Population: 7200 Postal code: 4427 @ area code: (03868) Altitude: 1660 m Distances • From Salta: 194 km south-west on RN 68 • From Tucumán: 255 km north-west on RN 38 then RN 307 and RN 40

C

afayate is located in the Río Calchaquí valley. It enjoys a good climate all year round with low rainfall. It is a favorite destination with Argentine tourists, and has good tourist facilities. It is well known for the quality of the wines produced in the valley.

B Tourist information •

•

E Eating out

Oficina de Turismo, in the Mercado Artesanal building General Güemes @ 21206/125 Municipal tourist offices, 421125. Contact Srta Norma on @ 421125 for information on bus services and budget accommodation

Cafayate

Restaurants • Miguelito, General Güemes, on the Plaza. Local cuisine • Bárbara, General Güemes 20, on the Plaza. Disco on Fri, Sat, and Sun • El Gordo, San Martín near General Güemes • La Carreta de Don Olegario, General Güemes 2, on the Plaza • La Casona de Luis, Diego de Almagro 87. Parrilla

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SALTA CAFAYATE CATAMARCA

CALCHAQUI

BUENOS AIRES

N

9 DE JULIO

T

14 $

11 DE NOVIEMBRE A

C

8

Hotel Asembal Hotel Emperador Residencial Briones Hotel Asturias Hotel Gran Real Restaurant La Casona de Luis Restaurant La Carreta

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Rancho Los Paraísos, General Güemes near Peñalva

I Post and telegraph • •

To Salta

•

Hostería Cafayate A.C.A. Hotel Confort Residencial Colonial

SEVILLA

1 3 4

40 68

4

4 Eating out 7

LAMADRID

3 Accommodation

6 9 10 11 12

2

BRACHIERI

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Central Oficina de Turismo A.C.A. El Cafayetano

P

LA BANDA

Key to map

3

CÓRDOBA

DIEGO DE ALMAGRO

AVENIDA GENERAL GÜEMES I 6 9 8 7 LOVAGLIO 13 SALTA

A C D I P T

ALVARDO

5

RIVADAVIA

12

B. MITRE

Q. DE NIÑO

11

BELGRANO

To Tucumán

40

SAN MARTÍN

NUESTRA SRA DEL ROSARIO 10 Plaza E San Martín

CÓLON

16

V. TOSCANO

15

9 Sights

15 Museo Arqueológico Señor Rodolfo Bravo 16 Museo del Vino

0 Services 2 5 13 14

Empresa Aconquija Regionales Amaicha Empresa El Indio Platería Jorge Barraco

Service station: A.C.A., General Güemes 290

Y Shopping

Post office: Correo Central, General Güemes 197 (corner of Córdoba) Telephone: Telecom, Mercado artesanal

The area is well known for quality woven tapestries and excellent wines. • Fería Artesanal Cafayate, Avenida Güemes 101 • Platería Jorge Barraco, Colón 157, for silverware and gemstones • Regionales Amaicha, San Martín 15 • Bodega Arnaldo Etchart, Finca La Florida, RN 40, 5 km south of town. Excellent wines. Conducted tours

U Motoring

RN 40 south to Tafí del Valle and Tucumán is only partly sealed but is in good condition. The road passes through the archeological site of Tolombón and passes close to Quilmes, site of the last stand of the Calchaquí peoples against the invading Spaniards.

p Sightseeing

•

787

Museo Arqueológico Señor Rodolfo Bravo (Señor Rodolfo Bravo

Cafayate

C Accommodation in Cafayate

For budget travelers there is the possibility of lodging in private homes for about $10.00 per person. Hotels ** ** ** ** ** ** *

Asembal, General Güemes near Almagro AEFGJLPUV Asturias, General Güemes 154 ADEFGJLPUV Confort, General Güemes Norte 232 AEFGJLPUV Emperador, General Güemes 48 AEFGJLPUV Gran Real, General Güemes 128 AEFGJLPUV Fax 421016 Santa Bárbara, C. Quintana de Nino AEFGJLPUV Tinkunaku, Diego de Almagro 12 AELPSV

@ @ @ @

421065 421040 fax 421091 421268

$F $F $H $G

1 2 2 2

@ @ @

421231 421319 421148

$G $H $G

2 2 2

@ @

421270 421233

$G $H

2 2

@ @

421471 421249

$I

1

@

421566

$I

1

Residenciales

A Briones, Vicario Toscano 80 (on the main square) LP B Colonial, Diego de Almagro 134 L • Güemes, Güemes near Nuestra Sra de Guadalupe APS • La Casona de Luis, Diego de Almagro 87

Youth hostel

• Albergues de la Joventud

Accommodation outside Cafayate Hostería Cafayate A.C.A., RN 40 north, on the Salta side, just past the Río Chuscha bridge Fax 421285 ADEFGHLPTUV @ 421296 $G 2 • Camping Río Lorohuasi, RN 40 south, on the Tucumán side. Cabins $H 4

**

Accommodation in San Carlos

• Hostería de San Carlos, Belgrano on main Plaza

•

Archeological Museum), Colón 191. Most artefacts on exhibit have been found in and around Cafayate, once apparently densely populated by Calchaquí peoples Museo del Vino (Wine Museum), corner of General Güemes with Chacabuco. Small admission charge

s Excursions •

•

Tolombón: 18 km south on RN 40 at the foot of the Sierra del Cajón. This archeological site was a Diaguita settlement built up the slopes of a hill and completely overgrown with shrubs Ruinas de Quilmes: A 5 km turn-off east leads 54 km south of Cafayate to this interesting and well restored pre-Inca city of the Calchaquí people. The ruins have been restored with great care by Argentine archeologists. The site is 45 minutes’ easy walk and is built in a horseshoe-shaped basin.

Cafayate

•

788

AEFGL

$I

1

This was the site of the last stand of the united Calchaquí peoples against the invading Spaniards. Bus services by El Indio and Aconquija is $6.00. Admission to the Archeoplogical site is $1.50. You can also visit on site the new Hotel de Quilmes which is decorated with pre-Hispanic motifs. See Ruinas de Quilmes on page 762. Take the Aconquija bus on Wednesdays leaving at 06:00; there is a return bus on the same day about noon, but check beforehand as it only runs during summer. It is possible to hitch a ride back with a truck. If you cannot make it back to Cafayate you can stay in Colalao del Valle at the hostería, which has a restaurant Angastaco and Cachi: A 250-km trip on RN 40 passing through the wide Río Calchaquí valley. The valley is fairly dry, but wherever there is water there are vineyards. At first the mountains are lower and further

SALTA S Buses from Cafayate

Cafayate has no central bus terminal. Bus services between Cafayate and Cachi are best described as “non existant”; although Empresa Marcos Rueda is listed with on service weekly you may have to rely on “Trafic” services which is a type of colectivo service: departure of colectivo when there are enough passengers. • Empresa El Indio, Belgrano 34 near General Güemes @ 421002 ° Angastaco ($6.00) via San Carlos ($1.10; 1 hour); 5 weekly ° Salta ($12.50) via Cafayate, La Viña and Coronel Moldes ($10.50; 31 2 hrs) 3-4 daily. Scenic drive through the Río de las Conchas valley • Empresa Aconquija, corner of Lamadrid and General Güemes During summer Empresa Aconquija increases its services to San Miguel de Tucumán via Tafí del Valle. ° Santa María via Tolombón, Colalao del Valle, Quilmes Antiguo Parada ($3.30; 11 2 hrs), Fuerte Quemado ($5.50; 21 2 hrs) 1 daily ° Tucumán ($22.00; 7 hrs) via Tolombón, Colalao del Valle ($4.40; 1 hour), Quilmes Antiguo, Amaicha del Valle ($5.50; 21 2 hrs), Tafí del Valle ($11.00; 5 hrs) Monteros and Famailla; 1–2 daily • Empresa Marcos Rueda ° Cachi ($20.00) via San Carlos ($1.10, 1 hour), Angastaco ($5.00), and Molinos; 1 weekly • El Cafayateño, Buenos Aires near San Martín ° Salta; 2 daily away on the eastern side. Here the valley floor is already 2000 m above sea-level. At Animaná there is a municipal camping ground. The road descends to the level of the river which carries very little water outside the rainy season and during the thaw, as most of it is channelled into reservoirs for irrigation—you pass several irrigation schemes on the way. From Animaná, the Nevado del Cachi starts to come into view. Dry stream beds open from gorges in the west. In many places the road has been cut through a mixture of lava and pebbles, betraying the land’s volcanic origin. After La Merced the road crosses

•

the Río Calchaquí over a long narrow bridge and enters the extremely scenic Quebrada de Salta (watch for falling rocks). The narrowest section of this quebrada is called “Corte de Ventisquero” (“Snow-drift Cut”) San Carlos is located 24 km north of Cafayate on RN 40 at an altitude of 1660 m. Its origins go back to pre-Hispanic times, but the present site is a Jesuit foundation. The Iglesia San Carlos is a monumento histórico. The streams coming down from the mountains form cascades and fishing for bagres is possible; the Cascada de Celia is 3 km from town. El Indio runs 3 services daily to Cafayate

METÁN

Metán Population: 24 000 Postal code: 4440 @ area code: (03876) Altitude: 860 m Distance from Salta: 140 km south on RN 34

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Metán

M

etán was founded in 1859. To the west are the foothills of the Andes. Nearby is the site of the Battle of Las Piedras.

A Festivals •

• •

Fiesta Patronal de San José (Festival of the Patron Saint Joseph): March 19

C Accommodation

Hotel Metán, RN 34 AELPV @ 420063 $H 2 * Hotel Solis, 20 de Febrero 51 AELPV @ 420305 $G 2 Accommodation in Río de las Piedras Río de las Piedras is located 25 km north of Metán at the intersection of RN 34 and RN 16. • Albergue, dormitory style accommodation, 24 bunks, basic *

La Veloz del Norte, B. Mitre @ 420403 TATA, T.A. Chevallier have regular buses to El Quebrachal, General Güemes, Tartagal, Salta, Pocitos, Orán and Tucumán

s Excursions

•

•

Posta de Yatasto: 6 km south. The historic meeting between the Liberation Generals San Martín, Güemes, and Belgrano took place here in January 1814 Metán Viejo (Old Metán): Metán was originally founded here, some 4 km south-west of town

S Buses

The bus terminal is on H. Yrigoyen near Güemes @ 420403. • El Panamericano Mitre Oeste @ 421177

MOLINOS

Molinos Postal code: 4419 @ area code: (03868) Altitude: 2020 m Distance from Salta: 170 km west on RN 68, RP 33, RP 42 and RN 40

M

olinos is a very picturesque little village, altitude 2020 m; it is located in the Río Luracatao valley 60 km south of Cachi not far from the junction with the Río Calchaquí. In the background Cerro Inca Huasi rises to 5260 m. The little church was built in 1720 by the padres of the nearby Jesuit mission, Candelaria; a national monument, it has recently been carefully restored. The remains of Coronel Severo Siqueira de Isasmendi y Echalar, the last governor appointed by the Spanish crown, rest here. The area abounds in archeological sites and opportunities for interesting short hikes into the nearby valleys. El Churcal 7 km east near the old RN 40 is an archeological site, where there are the remnants of a fifteenth-century pre-Hispanic settlement.

B Tourist information

Of interest is also the Museo Histórico Provincial, located in a Spanish colonial house built in the eighteenth century.

For further information ring the Municipalidad de Molinos @ (3868) 494003

C Accommodation

Accommodation in Molinos is in short supply. However, accommodation in private homes — shared facilities are

Molinos

790

SALTA available from $I 1; contact tourist information in Molinos. • Hostal Provincial de Molinos (ex Hacienda Molinos) @ 494002 $F 2 • Albergue, dormitory type accommodation; 25 bunks; basic

S Buses

D Camping

•

Empresa Marcos Rueda has daily buses to and from Cachi and Salta. The bus to Cachi ($6.50; 21 2 hrs) and Salta (71 2 hrs) leaves at 06:45 daily except Wed.

s Excursions

There is a municipal camping ground at $5.00 per tent and also has budget accommodation for $10.00 1.

Laguna de Brealitos: 41 km further up the mountain reached on a mountain trail via Seclantás

ORÁN

Orán Population: 52 000 Postal code: 4530 @ area code: (03878) Altitude: 362 m Distance from Salta: 276 km north-east on RN 34 then RN 50

O

rán’s full name is San Ramón de la Nueva Orán. It was the last city founded by the Spanish in South America. On your descent from Bolivia it is the first town you come to with first-class hotels. Orán is a good starting point for trips to almost untouched areas, such as the Parque Nacional Baritú with its fast-flowing rivers and abundant fish life. The subtropical climate and good rainfalls create an exuberant greenhouse, a paradise for the nature-lover and outdoor enthusiast.

C Accommodation in Orán Hotels Alto Verde, Pellegrini 671 Crillón, 25 de Mayo 255 • Argentino, Bolivia 65

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Residenciales

A Colonial, Pizarro near Colón B Avenida, López y Planes 124 B Centro, Pellegrini 332

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AELPV

@ @ @

421234 fax 421101 421910

$F $H

2 2

LP L L

@ @ @

421103 421563 421500

$H $H $H

2 2 2

471250 471035

$H $H

2 2

Albergues

• Municipal, dormitory style accommodation in two rooms, AR

Accommodation in Embarcación Hotels The cheaper hotels are near the rail station.

Centro, H. Yrigoyen 60 AEFGJLPUV Punta Norte, Avenida España 434 AEFGJLPUV • Internacional, 25 de Mayo near España • Monte Grande, 25 de Mayo

** **

791

@ @

Orán

S Buses from Orán Bus companies • Atahualpa, 20 de Febrero 247 • Bosio SRL @ 422092, • Fama, San Martín @ 421280 • La Veloz del Norte, San Martín @ 421781 Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Aguas Blancas Córdoba Embarcación Formosa General Güemes Pocitos Salta Tucumán Jujuy Tartagal

Fare $3.50 $2.50

Services 17 daily 1 daily 6 daily 2 weekly

$8.80 $10.45 $19.80 $16.00 $7.70

1 daily 9 daily 1 daily 2 daily 2 daily

Duration Company 2 hrs Atahualpa La Veloz del Norte 1 hour Atahualpa Atahualpa Atahualpa 21 2 hrs TATA Atahualpa, Fama La Veloz del Norte 3 hrs Balut 1 3 4 hrs Atahualpa, TATA

Buses from Embarcación The bus terminal is on the corner of Belgrano and Independencia. Regular buses to Orán, Salta, Pocitos ($5.50), Rosario de la Frontera, Tucumán and Jujuy by Veloz del Norte, Balut and Atahualpa. Empresa Giroldi and Atahualpa alternate 1 weekly service to Formosa via Ingeniero G. Juárez, Laguna Yema, and Comandante Fontana. The passport office is open 07:00–12:00 and 15:00–19:00. There is a one-hour time difference between Bolivia and Argentina. Expreso Panamericano and Atahualpa have daily services to Metán, Rosario de la Frontera and Salta via Orán; from Orán there are more regular buses to Jujuy and Salta. On the Bolivian side there are at least two services daily to Tarija taking 6 hours.

Also included here is the border town of Aguas Blancas and Embarcación. Embarcación is located 270 km east of Salta and 25 km south-east of San Ramón on RN 34. Although it is an important road junction its only importance is a as stopover for tourists on the way to the Bolivian border with accommodation facilities — see under Accommodation.

s Excursions

Orán is the starting point for visits to the upper Río Bermejo along the Bolivian border. Also trekking tours are now being organized into the eastern part of Salta Province which is bordering the provinces of Chaco and Santiago del Estero with visits to Toba Indian villages; this area is rarely visited by the ordinary tourist because of the lack of tourist facilities. Tour operators • Sr. Diego Castillo, Orán @ 423054 fax; ring first and then ask for fax connection

A Festivals •

Fiesta de San Ramón Nonato: August 31; festival of the patron saint

P Border crossings

Aguas Blancas, a border crossing into Bolivia, is located 72 km north of Orán. If you have any remaining Bolivian money, spend it here. There is no accommodation; small restaurant El Rinconcito de los Amigos which also accepts Bolivian currency. Puente Internacional crosses the Río Bermejo to Pozos Bermejo in Bolivia.

Orán

792

SALTA

POCITOS

Pocitos Population: 10 000 Postal code: 4568 @ area code: (03875) Altitude: 530 m Distance from Salta: 588 km north-east on RN 9 and RN 34

P

ocitos is an important border crossing into Bolivia. It is also known as Profesor Salvador Mazza. Many bus companies start their services here for destinations as distant as Patagonia. •

Some 10 km west is Dique Itiyuro, suitable for pejerrey fishing. On the road south to Tartagal you pass through the little village of Aguaray with a small residencial and some hot springs.

• •

C Accommodation •

Residencial Salta, Salta 303 @ 471436

•

S Buses

• •

The bus terminal is one block from the border crossing. • Andesmar, Monteagudo @ 471243 ° Mendoza (19 hrs) via Orán, Jujuy, Salta, Tucuman (10 hrs), Catamarca, La Rioja, and San Juan. Change in Jujuy for Andesmar connection to Córdoba

•

Empresa Atahualpa runs frequent services to Salta Empresa Balut runs frequent services to Jujuy La Veloz del Norte runs services to Buenos Aires ($83.00; 26 hrs), Córdoba, Salta ($8.80; 3 hrs), Tucumán ($30.00) and Santiago del Estero Expreso Panamericano, 9 de Julio @ 471246 La Internacional, Sgto Alegre @ 471590 El Rápido S.R.L., Monteagudo @ 471447 Transporte Bolivia, Ave. San Martín 285 @ 471393 has services to Yacuiba (Bolivia). Colectivos take half an hour to Yacuiba railroad station for connection to Santa Cruz

ROSARIO DE LA FRONTERA

Rosario de la Frontera Population: 19 000 Postal code: 4190 @ area code: (03876) Altitude: 791 m Distance from Salta: 176 km south on RN 34/9

R

osario de la Frontera was founded in 1776 and is a popular resort from June to September. Of interest is a visit to El Naranjo, a Jesuit foundation 11 km north; the church has a carved Christ statue most likely made by native artists. In town is a small museum. There is also a thermal resort 4 km east of town with a casino in the thermal complex. The sulfur springs are famous for their curative properties. An extinct volcano forms a backdrop to Rosario.

793

Rosario de la Frontera

C Accommodation

Hotel Real, Güemes 185 AELPV @ 481067 $H 2 B Residencial Rosario, Roca near 20 de Febrero L @ 481729 $H 2 B Residencial Sisti, 20 de Febrero 360 L @ 481116 $H @ • Albergue Campo Municipal, Alvarado 150 @ 481210 $J 1; also camping *

• •

Córdoba, Salta, Tucumán, Jujuy, Santiago del Estero (4 hrs), General Güemes, Embarcación, and Metán T.A. Chevallier runs daily buses to Pocitos, Tucumán, General Güemes, Salta, and Tartagal (7 hrs) La Internacional, Ave. San Martín 500 @ 423067

U Motoring Service stations • A.C.A., RN 34 KM 1293 • Y.P.F., RN 34, on the north side of town with cafeteria

Accommodation outside Rosario ** H o t e l C a s i n o T e r m a s , R N 3 4 AEFGJLPUV @ 481004 $E 2 full board. Situated on a hill overlooking the countryside, 6 km from the bus station. It is best reached by taxi ** Hostería Termal A.C.A., RN 34 AEFGJLPSUV @ 81143. One km before Hotel Casino Termas, near golf course $G 2

a Sport

•

•

S Buses

The bus terminal is on San Martín near Mitre. • Andesmar, Ave. Las Carretas @ 482380 • Expreso Panamericano runs daily services to Córdoba (11 hrs), Tucumán (21 2 hrs), Salta ($8.80; 21 2 hrs), Jujuy (3 hrs), General Güemes, and Metán • La Veloz del Norte Sarmiento 600 @ 481359 runs daily services to

Golf: between the Hostería Termal A.C.A. and the Hotel Termas is a nine-hole golf course; it is divided by the road Across the road from the Hostería Termal A.C.A. is an artificial lake, owned by Caza Y Pesca Club; ask in your hotel for permission to fish there. Picnic grounds

p Sightseeing

•

Museo Benito Quinquela Martín (Benito Quinquela Martín Museum). On exhibit are paintings of Argentine painters. It is in a Spanish colonial mansion

SALTA

Salta Population: 370 000 Postal code: 4400 @ area code: (0387) Altitude: 1187 m Distance from Buenos Aires: 1605 km north on RN 9

L

ocated on the Río Arias in the Lerma valley, Salta is surrounded by mountains; some of the residential areas are built on the lower slopes of Cerro San Bernardo (1460 m). From the viewing platform on top of Cerro San Bernardo, which you can reach by sealed road, on foot along Via Crucis, or by a cable-car starting in Parque General San Martín, there are splendid vistas over the city and valley to the distant cordillera. Salta was founded in 1582 by Don Hernando de Lerma on his descent from Peru. It is a city of fine plazas, convents, churches, and colonial buildings, especially around Plaza 9 de Julio, the hub of the town. Florida and J.B.Alberdi in the center have been converted to

Salta

794

SALTA pedestrian malls between Caseros and Avenida San Martín; they are paved with interesting ceramic tiles which invite you to stroll around. The climate is excellent all year round—cool summers and temperate winters with plenty of sunshine. The diocese of Salta is the oldest in Argentina. Because of earthquakes, city buildings are limited to two or three stories. The facilities of Coronel Moldes, Chicoana, San Lorenzo are included under the respective headings, main descriptions are under excursions. Also included are the following towns and their facilities: General Güemes , Campo Quijano and the archeological site of Cuevas Pintadas south of Guachipas. &

A • •

•

B •

• •

D •

del Líbano, on the Río Arenales, about 3 km from the city center @ 4231341. Take bus no. 13. There is no sign posting

E Eating out

During the cooler season many restaurants serve at least once a week a kind of stew called locro—very tasty. Try the local wines. Near the bus terminal is a string of parrillas or steak houses. There are cheap restaurants in Balcarce block 900, near the railroad station. Restaurants • Alvarez, Buenos Aires near San Martín. Also pizzería • Casa Mía, Alvarado 832. Chinese cuisine • El Mesón de Pepe, Rivadavia 774. Seafood; one of the best in town Festivals • Fausto, Avenida San Martín 481. Batalla de Salta: February 20 Parrilla Gaucho parade: June 16. Folk music by & • Italiano, Buenos Aires 95, upstairs. youngsters. All the gauchos wear the Italian cuisine traditional red ponchos with black • J.A., H Yrigoyen near San Martín. stripes. The gathering is around the Parrilla statue of Güemes in Paseo Güemes. A • Jockey Club, Belgrano 352. Internavery colorful event tional cuisine Carnaval (Mardi Gras): Salta cele• La Casona, Caseros 511. Parrilla brates a very lively carnaval with a • La Castiza, Alberdi 134. International procession of floats and thousands of and regional cuisine participants. Themes are historical & • La Madrileña, España 421. Spanish and caricatures of public figures. Also cuisine much “water bombing” of unsus• La Posta, España 456. Parrilla, pastas pecting passers-by! • Peche Mitre, Victorino de la Plaza 95 opposite the bus terminal. InternaTourist information tional cuisine Secretaría Provincial de Turismo, • Rubero “88”, Buenos Aires 88. Also Buenos Aires 93 @ 4310950 fax cafeteria and pizzería 4310716; has maps and addresses of Pizzerías private accommodation Dirección Municipal de Turismo, & • Don Pedro, Alvarado 1101 near Jujuy • El Rincón Salteño, Moldes 87 Avenida San Martín block 500 near • La Colonial, Balcarce 32 Buenos Aires @ 4222500 • La Selecta, Belgrano 511 Dirección Provincial de Medio Ambiente y Recursos Naturales, Cafeterías Balcarce 388 @ 4214944 fax. Informa• Cafe del Paseo, Caseros 499. Open 24 tion on national and provincial parks hours • Cafe de la Fe, B Mitre 105 Camping • Café Tobías, Caseros 515 (inside the Camping y Balneario Municipal arcade) Carlos Xamena, Avenida República

795

Salta

S A LTA

LA TABLADA O’HIGGINS

BEECHE AME GHINO

TEDÍN

NECOCHEA

L . FRÍAS

79 1

To San Lorenzo

2 3

N. ROLDÁN ALSINA

26 AVE . E NTRE RÍOS 4

5

A .F. CORNEJO

MOLLIN EDO

P

RIVADAVIA

A LV A R A

Plaza Güemes

DO

B

DR. LINA RES LEGUIZAMÓN SOLÁ 7 6

J. URIBURU

SANTIAG O DEL ESTERO

12 GÜ EM ES

13

ES PA SE O GÜ EM PULÓ

IL A G

SAN LOR ENZO

RO

A . SARAVÍA

CASEROS 59

GÓMEZ

KLEIN

BI

58

LAVALLE

57

SANTA FE

LERMA

CÓRDOBA

BUEN OS AIRES

ALVARADO

AV E.

65

H.

74

73

71 72

EN

I

70

OY

68

J. SARAVÍA

IG

69

YR

67

CATAMARCA

G

EDO TOL REY LAS HERAS

ESPAÑ A

URQUIZA 66 60

. VIR

21

JURAMENTO

PUE YRREDÓN

DEAN FUNES

F. ZUVIRÍA

62

Plaza 9 de Juli o

JUAN B. ALBE RDI

ITUZAINGÓ 61

B.MITRE

23 36

BALCARCE FLORIDA

20 DE FEBRERO

PELLEGRINI

22

Refer Map Sa lta Centro

ZORILLA

DEL M

AVE

25 DE MAYO

1515

AVE . BELGRANO 8

TO

E

E . DE ISRAEL

AS

11

AVENIDA SAN MARTÍN T

Parque San Martín

MENDOZ A C H

9

75

AN

To Tucumán

ICL

A

76

51

SAN JUAN

77

ABRAHAM CORNEJO

F IGU ERO A

78 SAN LUIS

68 To Cafayate, Cachi and San Antonio de los Cobres

Salta

80 Museo Antropológivo Juan M. Leguizamón

V. LÓPEZ

10 9

J.

F

796

CLETO A G U IR PEDRO PARDO

RE

SALTA Casablanca, Alvarado block 600 near & • Peña La Casona del Molino, Luis Burela 1. $Y Alberdi La Casa de las Empanadas, B Mitre Entertainment in Barrio Tres Cerritos 256 • Disco Afrika, Las Higueras La Recova, Caseros 529 • Disco Nacho I, Los Eucaliptos 236 Palpi, Leguizamón 535 Regidor, Buenos Aires 8 I Post and telegraph Río, Mitre 41. Milk shakes and nice Post office: Correo Central, Déan • cakes Funes 160 La Casa de las Empanadas, 12 de Telephones: Telecom, Belgrano 824 • Octubre 720. Peña

• • • • • & • •

L Financial

n Entertainment

•

•

•

• • •

Casino Central, Mitre 334 Casino de las Nubes, Caseros 786 Casona del Molino, Burela 1. Peña, live music El Emperador de la Noche, Jujuy 251. Disco; open from 22:00 onwards El Monumento, O’Higgins 1055. Tanguería El Patio del Tango, Necochea 1148. Tanguería Manolo, Ave. San Martín 1296. Tanguería Mao Mao, RN 51 KM 3, on the south side of the city center. Disco Peña Boliche Balderrama, San Martín 1126; open 21:00–02:00. $Z Bangkok Disco, Caseros 511 Peña José Manuel, Caseros 406 Peña Gauchos de Güemes, Uruguay 750. Open nightly from 21:00. $Z Peña La Casa de Güemes, España 720

• • • • & • • • & • & •

Key to map B

E F G I P T

Gobernación Provincial (Government) Telecom Jefatura de Policia Mercado Central Dirección Municipal de Turismo A.C.A. Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 3 5 6 11 22 36 60 61 62 65

Residencial Palermo Residencial Güemes Residencial Astur Residencial Balcarce Residencial Provincial Hotel Provincial and Casino a las Nubes Hotel Crillón Residencial Crisol Residencial Florida Hotel Crystal Residencial Royal

67 68 69 71 72 77 78

•

Banco de la Nación, Balcarce 66 @ 4213553. Exchanges money only between 07:30 and 10:00; accepts cash and travelers’ checks Banco Provincia de Salta, Plaza 9 de Julio, España 550. Changes travelers’ checks at the official rate Dinar S R L, Mitre 101 @ 4215561. Cash and travelers’ checks; good rates

P Visas, passports

•

• • •

Dirección Nacional de Migraciones, Maipú 35 @ 4220438. Open Mon–Fri 07:30–12:30; for visa extensions Bolivian consulate, Mariano Boedo 38 @ 4321401. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–13:00 Chilean consulate, Santiago del Estero 965 @ 4311857. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–13:00 Paraguayan consulate, Pasaje Gregorio Marañon 50 @ 4222381/3

Residencial Italia Residencial Elena Hotel Las Tinajas Hotel Petit Hotel Continental Residencial San Juan Hotel Misoroj

9 Sights

Restaurant El Mesón de Pepe 7 Cafetería Palpi 15 Restaurant Jockey Club 74 Restaurant Fausto

13 Monumento General Güemes 21 Museo Pajarito Velarde 23 Casa de Los Zorrilla 59 Convento San Bernardo 70 Teleferico to Cerro San Bernardo 75 Museo de Ciencias Naturales 76 Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria de la Viña 80 Museo Antropológico Juan M. Leguizamón

5 Entertainment

0 Services

4 Eating out 4

10 Casino Central

2

Etchart Privado Dirección Provincial de Medio Ambiente y Recursos Naturales 12 La Maroma Country Club 66 El Potro, Urquiza 727 79 Railroad station

7 Tour operators and 9 rent a car 57 Dollar Rent a Car 58 Clarke Expediciones S.R.L 73 Europa Rent a Car

797

Salta

C Accommodation in Salta

The cheap hotels are near the F C General M Belgrano railroad station. During July there is a large influx of tourists, and a few hotels close over the Christmas–New Year period. Booking during those periods is recommended. Hotels Gran Hotel Presidente, Ave. Belgrano 353 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ E-mail: [email protected] @ 4312022/3 fax **** Portezuelo, Avenida del Turista 1, at the foot of Cerro San Bernardo ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 4310105 **** Provincial, Caseros 786 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 4322026 @ 43220000 **** Salta, Buenos Aires 1, Plaza 9 de Julio ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 4310740 fax *** Crillón, Ituzaingó 30 ACDEFGHJKLPTUVYY @ 4220400 *** Crystal, Urquiza 616 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 4310715 *** Cumbre, Ituzaingó 585 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: [email protected] @ 4212057 fax *** Posada del Sol, Alvarado 646 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4317300 fax *** Premier, Jujuy 305 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4310815/29 *** Victoria Plaza, Zuviria 10, Plaza 9 de Julio Fax 431634; e-mail:[email protected]; Website: usuarios.arnet.com.ar ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4318500 ** Colonial, Zuviria 6 AEFGJLPSUVXY Fax 4314249 @ 4310805 ** Continental, H Yrigoyen 295 AEFGJLPUVY Two blocks from the bus station @ 4311083 ** Cristian, Islas Malvinas 160 AEFGJLPSUV @ 4319600 ** Misoroj, San Luis 190 AEFGJLPUV Fax 4233122 @ 4311072 ** Regidor, Buenos Aires 8 AEFGJLPSUV @ 4311305 ** Shaward, San Martín 982 AEFGJLPUV @ 4310982 * Las Lajitas, Calixto Gauna 336 AELPV @ 4233796 * Las Tinajas, Lerma 288 AELPV @ 4318197 * Petit, H Yrigoyen 225 AEFGLPRV Near bus terminal @ 4213012 fax • General Güemes, España 446 AFPVY @ 4314800 Fax 4311050 ****

Residenciales A A A A B B B B B

Astur, Rivadavia 752 Balcarce, Balcarce 460 Elena, Buenos Aires 256 San Juan, San Juan 443 Crisol, Ituzaingó 166 El Provincial, Santiago del Estero 555 España, España 319 Florida, Urquiza 718 Güemes, Necochea 651 Near railroad station B Italia, Alberdi 231 B Norte, Balcarce 81 L Near railroad station B Palermo, Balcarce 980 Near railroad station

Salta

LP LP LP LP L L ALP L L L AEGLPT

798

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SALTA Accommodation in Salta — continued B San Jorge, Esteco 244 LP C Royal, Alvarado 109 near bus terminal

Hostel accommodation For backpackers and budget travelers.

• Casa del Peregrino, General Alvarado 351 AEFL C Albergue Juvenil, Buenos Aires 930

@

4210443

$H $I

2 2

@ @

4320423 4235910

$I $J

1 1

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Accommodation north of city center in Campo Castanares ***

Hotel Huaico, Bolivia corner of Patrón Costas, Near University ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

@

Accommodation in San Lorenzo Hotels

Quebrada de San Lorenzo, A Gauffin near F Arias ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 4921433 @ 4921267 • Castillo de San Lorenzo, J C Dávalos 1985 near Quebrada @ 4921052 @ 4921184 • Hostal Selva Montaña, A. Storni 2315 @ 4921675 • Hostería Los Ceibos, 9 de Julio near España

***

Accommodation in Campo Quijano • Hostería Punta Callejas, RN 51

@

4904086

$F

2

@

4907009

$G

2

@

4902505

$H

1

Hostería Cabra Corral, Avenida Sarmiento 485 ACDEFGJKLPRTUVY @ 4905022 $H • Albergue Municipal, near the Cabra Corral dam, dormitory style accommodation

1

Accommodation in Chicoana ***

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

Hostería de Chicoana, España 45

Accommodation in Cerillos *

Hostería Paraje la Posta, Tres Acequias KM 3 AELPV

Accommodation in Cabra Corral ***

Accommodation in Coronel Moldes • Hotel del Dique, RP 47 KM 12

Accommodation in General Güemes *

Hotel Román, San Martín 596

AELPV

@

4905112

@

4911471

$H

2

Ecotourism

• Estancia El Bordo de las Lanzas, 9 km west of General Güemes. Founded in 1609 by Doña Magdalena Goyechada the mother of the liberation hero Martín Güemes. This is a horse stud now. Room for 14 guests. Information: @ (0387) 490370, fax 4310525. Polo field, excursions on horseback, visit to archeological sites

•

U Motoring

The road trip to Jujuy can be made either via General Güemes (on RN 9) or direct via the cornisa, 92 km heading due north. Service stations • A.C.A., Mitre block 600 near Rivadavia. Maps available; cafetería Car rental Insurance is $15.00 per day.

• • • • •

799

A1 Rent a Car, Caseros 374 @ 4216785 fax Avis Rent-a-Car, Alvarado 537 @ 4317575. Also at airport Dollar Rent a Car, Caseros 225 @ 4212067 Europa Rent a Car, Alberdi 325 local 3 Paseo La Mirage @ 4211099 Rent a Car–López Fleming, Buenos Aires 3 @ 4212333. Also at airport M.P.C. Rent a Car, Buenos Aires 8 @ 4317270 fax 4220638 Salta

CASTRO

Key to map

Cathedral and bishop’s palace Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Central Banco Provincia de Salta

AVE. BELGRANO 17 18

8

24

27 28 26

CASEROS

14 17 19 27 32 43

Cafetería La Casa de las Empanadas Cafetería Cafe de la Fe Restaurant La Posta Cafetería Río Restaurant La Madrileña Restaurant La Casona and Cafetería Tobias 48 Restaurant Rubero “88” 63 Restaurant La Castiza

63

• •

8 Peña La Casa de Güemes 34 Peña José Manuel

•

6 Airline offices

Dinar S.R.L. LAPA Lloyd Aereo Boliviano Dinar Líneas Aéreas Aerolíneas Argentinas–Austral and Andesmar

• •

7 Tour operators and car rental 42 45 51 52 64

Saltur Turismo M.P.C. Rent a Car Tren A Las Nubes Rent a Car–López Fleming Avis Rent-a-Car

9 Sights

37 Casa de Otero 39 Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes 38 Museo de la Ciudad Casa de Hernández 41 Museo Histórico Colonial and the Museo de Bellas Artes 55 Casa de los Uriburu 56 Convento y Iglesia de San Francisco

•

Artesanías La Casona Onyx Salta S.R.L. Banco de la Nación Centro Cultural América Artesanías El Yunque Artesanías de La Cámera S.C.I. Secretaría Provincial de Turismo

Salta

54

35

56

ALVARADO 64

Artesanías de La Cámera S.C.I., Buenos Aires 45 local 2 Artesanías La Casona, España 406. Souvenirs and onyx Artesanías El Yunque, Caseros 505. Onyx and silverware Etchart Privado, 25 de Mayo 862. Wine Onyx Salta S.R.L., Caseros 740 Mercado Artesanal de Salta, Casa El Alto Molino, San Martín 2555. The house in which the market is located was built towards the end of the eighteenth century. The building has been completely restored and gives a good picture of how the rich of that period lived. All items displayed are of excellent quality. Although it is a long way out of town (almost at the intersection of San Martín with Circunvalación past the rail crossing) it is worth a visit. Open daily 08:00–19:30. Take bus 2, 3, or 7 from the city center El Potro, Urquiza 727. Local products and articles made from llama products

a Sport

0 Services 20 24 26 28 44 53 54

52 53

C

Y Shopping

•

5 Entertainment

18 29 33 47 50

45 46 47 48

CÓRDOBA

4 Eating out

32 31 30 33 29 34 41 42 43 44 49 50 51 55 Plaza 9 de Julio

BUENOS AIRES

38 40

J.B.ALBERDI

39

FLORIDA

37

$

A

ESPAÑA

ZUVIRÍA

25

16

19 20

B. MITRE

Hotel Gran Presidente Residencial Norte Hotel Colonial Hotel Victoria Plaza Residencial España Hotel Posada del Sol Hotel Regidor Hotel Salta

BALCARCE

3 Accommodation 16 25 30 31 35 40 46 49

SALTA CENTRO

DEAN FUNES

A C D $

14

Golf • Salta Polo Club, Avenida Bolivia @ 4212660/4310552; 18 holes • La Maroma country club, Zuviría 309; nine holes

800

SALTA R Air services from Salta

El Aybal international airport is on RN 51, the road to Campo Quijano. All air services to Buenos Aires land at Aeroparque Jorge Newbery. Airlines • Lloyd Aereo Boliviano, Deán Funes 29 @ 4319388, fax 4314854 • Aerolíneas Argentinas–Austral, Caseros 475 @ 4311331 • Americana de Aviación, Buenos Aires 344 @ 4317309 • Andesmar, Caseros 489 @ 4310875 fax • Dinar Líneas Aéreas, Buenos Aires 46 local 2 @ 4310606 • LAPA, Caseros 492 @ 4317080, fax 4317079 • Southern Winds, Buenos Aires 22 @ 422555; e-mail: [email protected] • TAPSA, Aeropuerto El Aybal @ 4242166 Services • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Buenos Aires $150.00 Catamarca $75.00 Chilecito $185.00 Comodoro Rivadavia Córdoba $115.00 Jujuy La Rioja $174.00 Mendoza $170.00 Mosconi Orán Río Gallegos Rosario $180.00 San Luis $185.00 Santa Cruz (Bolivia) Tarija (Bolivia) Tucumán $35.00

Services 4–6 daily 2 weekly 2 weekly 3 weekly 1–2 daily 3 weekly 3 weekly 1–2 daily 3 weekly 3 weekly 3 weekly 5 weekly 3 weekly 2 weekly 1 weekly 1 daily

Duration 2–23 4 hrs 11 2 hrs 4 hrs 21 4 hrs 1

2

3 2 hrs 3 hrs 11 2 hrs 1

63 4 hrs 31 2 hrs 6 hrs 11 4 hrs 1

2

Airline Austral, Dinar, LAPA Andesmar Andesmar Dinar Andesmar Austral Andesmar Andesmar Tapsa Tapsa Dinar Andesmar Andesmar Lloyd Aereo Boliviano Lloyd Aereo Boliviano Andesmar, Dinar, LAPA

above sea-level, and is quite barren. It is sparsely populated by the descendants of the Diaguita Indians, who are closely related to the Indians of Bolivia. The train ride is more spectacular than the bus ride but by-passes Santa Rosa de Tastil, where there is an interesting archeological site. The train goes right to the Chilean border where it returns to Salta; if you want to continue to Chile check with the rail office in Salta whether there are connecting trains on the Chilean side. A tourist train, the “Tren a las Nubes”, runs to the Polvarillo viaduct passing through San Antonio de los Cobres and returning to Salta. On this tourist train you can enjoy a breathtaking panoramic spectacle in the comfort of a heated carriage. The “Tren a las Nubes” runs between April and October leaving Salta on Saturdays at 07:00 and returns about 21:40. In July it runs daily; for the remain-

Golf in Alto de la Sierra • Club Amancay, Avenida Roque Sáenz Peña 8116, @ 4250950; nine holes

T Trains

The F C General M Belgrano station is at Ameghino 690. There are no direct services to Buenos Aires or Jujuy; instead there is a local service to General Güemes and a freight train to Socompa on the Chilean border with some passenger carriages. The railroad runs from Salta to San Antonio de los Cobres and on via the Salar Pocitos through the Arizaro to Socompa on the Chilean border. Abra Muñano at 4165 m is the highest rail station in Argentina. The line zigzags up the hill to Abra Muñano, and on the other side of the ridge you arrive at El Alisal and Chorrillos. Here you have reached the Argentine altiplano; most of it is 3300 m

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Salta

S Buses from Salta Municipal bus services • Bus terminal–City center: Bus 1A, 1B, 1C, 11A, 11B • Bus terminal–City center–Mercado Artesanal: Bus 3, 7 • Bus terminal–City center–Railroad station: Bus 4, 5, 6 • Bus terminal–City center–Railroad station–Castanares–University: Bus 10, 14 • Bus terminal–City center–Railroad station–Tres Cerritos: Bus 12 • City center–Railroad station: Bus 13 • City center–Railroad station–Mercado Artesanal–Tres Cerritos: Bus 2 Bus companies with services to local destinations The bus terminal is on Avenida H Yrigoyen 399 near Dionisio Puch. From Salta there are daily buses to the Bolivian border, weekly buses to Antofagasta in Chile and weekly buses to Asunción in Paraguay. Companies with local services • Empresa Luis Chávez @ 4210243/4210040 ° Calvimonte via Cerrillos, La Merced, and El Carril; 2 daily ° Chicoana ($2.40) via Cerillos, La Merced, El Carril; 16 daily 06:00–00:30 ° Coronel Moldes ($3.10) via Cerrillos, La Merced, El Carril; 9 daily from 06:10–21:15 ° La Caldera via Vaqueros; 6 weekly ° Los Yacones ($1.80) via Vaqueros and Lesser; Mon, Wed, Sat, Sun 04:00–13:00 ° Quebrada de San Lorenzo ($1.20) via San Cayetano; 15 daily 05:30–22:30 ° San Agustín via Cerrillos and La Merced; 5 daily • Empresa El Indio @ 4320846/4319389/4219519 ° Angastaco ($20.00) via Coronel Moldes, La Viña, Cafayate, and San Carlos; 1 daily 11:00, 91 2 hrs ° Cafayate ($12.50; 4 hrs) via Ampascachi, La Viña and Alemania; 4 daily 07:00–19:15 ° Guachipas ($4.00) via La Merced, El Carril, Coronel Moldes, La Viña; 4 daily 06:30–20:30 ° Pampa Grande ($10.50) via El Carril, Coronel Moldes, Ampascachi, La Viña, Guachipas, and Las Juntas; 1 daily at 06:30 • Empresa El Quebradeño @ 4271127 ° Mina Tincalayo ($35.00; 11 hrs) via San Antonio de los Cobres, and Salar de Pocitos; 1 service Thursday leaving Salta 08:00 ° San Antonio de los Cobres ($16.00; 41 2 hrs) via Rosario de Lerma, Campo Quijano, Tastil, Santa Rosa de Tastil (31 2 hrs); 1 daily at 15:00 • Empresa Tanoa @ 4281823 ° Campo Quijano via Cerillos and La Silleta; 15 daily ° Rosario de Lerma via Río Ancho, Cerillos, and El Carmen; 19 daily • Empresa Marcos Rueda @ 4214447 ° Cachi ($15.00; 5 hrs); 1 daily, leaving at 07:00 ° La Poma ($19.00; 9 hrs) via Maray, Piedra del Molino, Payogasta, Pueblo Viejo, and El Cajón; Tues, Wed and Sat. 07:00, 13:00 ° Molinos ($20.50; 71 2 hrs) via Maray, Piedra del Molino, Payogasta, Cachi ($15.00), and Seclantás ($18.50; 61 4 hrs); 1 daily at 07:00 except Tues • Empresa Silvio Fama @ 4316991 ° Orán • Empresa Elio Vill @ 4214447 • Empresa El Cafayateño @ 4319169 ° Cafayate; 2 daily • Empresa El Salteño @ 4315088

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SALTA Buses from Salta — continued • Empresa Mendoza @ 4313866 • Empresa San Miguel @ 4316631 Long-distance bus companies • A9 Empresa Atahualpa @ 4319169/4222333 ° Aguas Blancas on the Bolivian border ($12.50; 6 hrs) via Cobos, General Güemes, San Pedro, Pichanal,and Orán; 1 daily ° Pocitos on the Bolivian border ($15.80) via Cobos, General Güemes, San Pedro, Pichanal, and Embarcación; 1 daily ° Rosario de la Frontera ($8.80; 23 4 hrs) via Metán; 11 daily 03:00–22:30 ° Tartagal; 4 daily • A16 Empresa Bosio @ 4313887 • A33 Empresa T.A. Chevallier @ 4312819 • A37 Expreso Panamericano @ 4311957 • A55 Empresa El Cóndor @ 4271500 • A81 Empresa Andesmar @ 4310263 • A85 Empresa Balut, office #14 @ 4320608 ° Dique Campo Alegre ($1.90) via La Caldera ($1.60); 6 daily 06:00–20:45 ° El Paredón ( $5.70) via Dique Cabra Corral, Camping El Préstamo ($3.10)and El Puente ($4.50); 10 daily 06:10-21:15 • A140 Empresa Géminis @ 4212758; to Chile • A155 La Estrella S.R.L @ 4242156 • A157 Empresa La Internacional @ 4312430; to Asunción • A164 Empresa La Veloz del Norte @ 4317215/4222709 ° Apolinario Saravia (“Chaco”) via General Güemes (1 hour), Lumbreras, Las Víboras, RP 20 to Parque Nacional El Rey, Las Lajitas, and Río del Valle; 2 daily ° Rosario de La Frontera via General Güemes, Cabeza de Buey, access to Lumbreras, access to Río de las Piedras, and Metán; 3 daily ° Tolloche (“Chaco”) via General Güemes, Metán, El Galpón, Joaquín V. González and El Quebrachal; 3 daily • A293 Tramaca @ 4312497; to Chile Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Abra Pampa $18.40 Antofagasta(Chile) Buenos Aires $80.00 Calama (Chile) Catamarca $27.50 Córdoba $54.00 Formosa $52.80 Humahuaca $12.00 Jujuy $5.50 La Quiaca $25.30 La Rioja $35.00 Mendoza $61.00 Posadas Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña $35.20 Resistencia $42.00 Rosario San Juan $51.00

Services Duration 1 daily 51 2 hrs Tues, Thurs, Sat 1–2 daily 22 hrs Tues, Thurs, Sat t 3 daily 6 daily 12 hrs Tues, Thurs 21hrs 8 daily 4 hrs 16 daily 2 hrs 5 daily 9 hrs 5 daily 11 hrs 3 daily 19 hrs

3 weekly

Company A157 A9, A140, A293 A33, A157, A164 A9, A140 A16, A81,A164 A37, A55, A85, A155, A164 A9 A9, A85, A157 A9, A37, A81, A85, A157, A164 A9, A37, A85, A157 A16, A81, A164, A81, A164 A37

A164 16 hrs A164 A33, A164 17 hrs A81, A164

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Buses from Salta — continued • • • • • • • •

San Pedro de Atacama (Chile) Tues, Thurs, Sat Santa María $20.00 2 daily Santa Fe $52.00 Santiago del Estero $25.00 3 daily Termas de Río Hondo $19.80 3 daily Tilcara $8.80 5 daily Tres Cruces $16.80 4 daily Tucumán $18.00 12 daily

12 hrs A9, A140, A293 Empresa El Indio 15 hrs A164 6 hrs A37, A164 6 hrs 33 4 hrs 6 hrs 41 2 hrs

p Sightseeing

der of the year check with Belgrano station. The line to Socompa was built under the American engineer Richard Maury who envisioned a connection between north-western Argentina and the Pacific. The work was started in the late 1920s and completed in the 1940s. It is interesting to note that one migrant worker from Yugoslavia by the name of Josip Broz worked on that project returning to Yugoslavia at the outbreak of World War II —he became known as Marshall Tito and headed the first post-war government in Yugoslavia.

To Jujuy Universidad Nacional de Salta 9

San Lorenzo

The historical part of the town is best explored on foot. There are a few old houses in Puerreydón which were spared in the 1884 earthquake; number 112 was built in 1739. However the largest concentration of houses dating from the Spanish colonial period are located in Calle Caseros: Casa de Otero #769 Miguel Otero was leader of the Salteño republican movement in 1810; Casa de Arias Velázquez, Caseros near Florida; Casa de Los Zorrilla 776. • Casa de Gobierno (House of Assembly), on the eastern side of Plaza Güemes. The guard of honor is dressed in red ponchos with black stripes, the historical uniforms of the Gauchos de Güemes. The changing of the guard takes place daily at 12:00 Public buildings • Monument to General Güemes, situated at the end of Paseo Güemes at the foot of Cerro San Bernardo. This is a massive statue by the artist Victor Carino in honor of the gaucho general who between 1814 and 1821 repelled and defeated the royalist troops coming down from Bolivia seven times • Centro Cultural América, Mitre 23. Built in 1913 it served as Casa de Gobierno from 1950 until 1987. Until the expulsion of the Jesuits there was a Jesuit church here

Castanares Universidad Católica

N To Tucumán

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51

To Gral Güemes

To San Antonio de los Cobres

9

Finca El Carmen de Güemes

48

San Luis 21

To Rosario de Lerma

23

Salta

A37 A85, A157 A85 A9, A16, A37, A155, A164

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Museums • Cabildo, Caseros 549–575. Built in 1676 and remodeled in 1780 is the oldest building in Salta. It houses the Museo Colonial Histórico (Colonial History Museum) and the Museo de Bellas Artes (Fine Arts Museum). The

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SALTA Colonial History Museum provides a good overview of Salta’s past. Open Tues–Sun, but check opening hours. Small admission charge • Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes (Provincial Fine Arts Museum), Casa Arias Rengel, La Florida 20; open Tues–Sun; small admission charge • Casa José Evariste Uriburu, Caseros 417, was the home of a well-known nineteenth-century Salteña family, and contains memorabilia of the family and the period. This colonial house was built in 1773. Open Mon–Sun 09:30–13:30 and 15:30–20:30. Small admission fee • Museo de Ciencias Naturales (Natural Science Museum), Mendoza 2, has an interesting ornithological section. Open Tues– Sunday; small admission • Museo de la Ciudad Casa de Hernández (Casa de Hernández City Museum), Florida 97. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–13:00 and 16:30–21:00, Sat 09:00–13:00 • Museo Antropológico Juan Martín Leguizamon (Juan Martín Leguizamon Anthropology Museum), Ejercito del Norte 750 near Polo Sur, behind the Güemes monument. Many of the archeological pieces come from Santa Rosa de Tastil: Ceramics, wooden implements, weavings, and a disk made of silver and gold. Open Tues–Fri 08:00–12:30 and 15:00–18:00; Sun 09:00–12:00; small admission fee • Finca de Castañares, in the northern suburb of Tres Cerritos. An estancia founded in Spanish colonial times • Museo Pajarito Velarde, Pueyrredón 106. Popular art and Salteño themes. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–18:00 Sun 10:00–14:00 Churches • Cathedral and bishop’s palace, España 596 on the north side of the Plaza 9 de Julio, were completed in 1878. The interior of the cathedral is decorated in red and gold. The late baroque altar and the images of the Cristo del Milagro (Christ of the Miracle) brought from Spain in 1592 and of the Virgin Mary are worth a visit. A disastrous earthquake which struck the city on September 13, 1692 was

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miraculously stopped when the townsfolk paraded the two images through the streets. It is the resting place of General Güemes, hero of the Wars of Independence Convento San Bernardo (San Bernardo convent), Caseros near Santa Fe. The wooden portal made of algarrobo wood by indigenous artists, dates from 1762. It is the oldest religious building in Salta Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria de la Viña, Alberdi block 500 near San Juan. The image of Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria dates from the 18th century; there are many other valuable pictures, some of the Cuzco School. During the turbulent times from 1884 to 1888 it was used as a refuge during the civil war and then as a hospital during the cholera epidemic Convento y Iglesia de San Francisco (Franciscan Convent and Church), Caseros block 300 near Córdoba, was founded by Fray Bartolomé de la Cruz. The first part of the convent and church was completed in 1625. By 1674 a bigger church was constructed, which later fell victim to a fire. The present church was completed in 1880. The bells were made from the cannon used in the Battle of Salta. The steeple is 53 m high and one of the loftiest in South America. Inside the church are some famous paintings such as Nuestra Señora de las Nieves and a picture of San Francisco de Asissi, founder of the brotherhood. In the library there are numerous old volumes of inestimable value

s Excursions Tour operators • Clarke Expediciones S.R.L., Caseros 121 @ 4215390, fax 4211422 • Saltur Turismo, Caseros 525 @ 4312012, fax 4311622. Multilingual staff • Tren A Las Nubes Turismo, Caseros 431 @ 4314984/43114282, fax 4316174 Tour operators charge the following for day tours: • Cachi: 12-hour excursion, covering 320 km east; departs 07:00, $45.00

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Cafayate covering 360 km return $40.00 • Cuesta del Obispo: Seven-hour excursion, covering 230 km east; normally departs 13:00 $30.00 • Dique Cabra Corral 80 km south $25.00 • La Quiaca, Jujuy Province $100.00 • Quebrada de Humahuaca, Jujuy Province: one-day excursion $50.00 • Quebrada del Toro covering 180 km east $40.00 • Quebrada de San Lorenzo: 15 km north east $15.00 • San Antonio de los Cobres: covering 330 km $75.00 • Termas de Reyes and Lagunas de Yala, Jujuy Province: 240 km north $40.00 • Tren a las Nubes $95.00 Excursions A round trip starting in Salta taking in the Calchaquíes valley via Cachi and returning via Cafayate or vice versa) is recommended. For those using public transport there is a 40 km gap between Angastaco and Molinos — one bus service per week. However, tour operators in Salta organise such round trips. Cachi and Cafayate are worth staying longer in. • Parque Nacional El Rey via Lumbrera, altitude 890 m: An excursion into the lush eastern part of the province. There is opportunity to fish in the clear mountain streams and observe tropical birds such as toucans. This is a two-day excursion with a tour operator, covering 400 km; departs 07:00 • Coronel Moldes is located 59 km south on RN 68, altitude 1104 m. Coronel Moldes has an old parochial church with an image of San Bernardo who is the patron saint. The main attraction of Coronel Moldes, however, is the artificial lake Cabra Corral, about 22 km east. Covering approximately 11 000 ha (27 180 acres) it is the second largest artificial lake in Argentina. This lake irrigates 32 000 ha (79 000 acres) of farmland and generates electricity. It is stocked with pejerrey, and attracts many visitors for sailing and water-skiing. The village of Cabra Corral, has become a weekend retreat for the Salteños with Salta

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accommodation and restaurants. The lake surface is in sharp contrast with the bare mountains encircling the site. Restaurant El Mirador has international cuisine and serves pejerrey from the lake. Archeological buffs may be interested to visit Ampascachi 9 km south of Coronel Moldes with remains of a pre-5ispanic settlement. This is a five-hour excursion with a tour operator, covering 220 km. Sometimes Cabra Corral is included in a tour to Cafayate. Empresa Luis B. Chávez and Empresa El Indio run frequent daily buses to Coronel Moldes passing through Ampascachi Chicoana is located on RN 33, 47 km south of Salta in the Río Lerma valley near the beginning of the Quebrada de Escoipe; altitude 1272 m. There are regular buses to and from Salta and to Cachi via the Cuesta del Obispo. It is a traditional small town surrounded by mountains. It has accommodation and restaurants, and can serve as a base for excursions into the Quebrada. Horses can be hired at the hotel for $5.00 per hour Embalse Campo Alegre: 27 km north on the scenic cornisa road from Salta to Jujuy; altitude 1300 m. It has a surface of 328 ha (810 acres) and serves as water supply to Salta and for irrigation; water sports. The nearest town is La Caldera 3 km south. It is interesting to note that La Caldera was a Jesuit foundation and that the Inca trail from Cuzco to Tucumán passed through here. Atahualpa and Empresa Balut run 15 services daily, fare $2.00 Cafayate: This 390 km trip first goes through the Lerma valley along a sealed road and later through the Quebrada del Río de las Conchas (or “River of Shells”) and the Quebrada de Cafayate. This is a very scenic and wild part of the province: most rivers are forded except the Río Chunapa. You pass through semi-arid landscapes and canyons with strange rock formations (Los Castillos, El Fraile, El Obelisco, and El Anfiteatro, a gorge)—most of these rock formations are sign-posted. Wildlife

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encountered are rheas and armadillos. The mountains are occasionally covered with shrub as the road winds its way gradually up through the canyon. The ruins of Toquipili, a pre-Colombian settlement, are across the river on the northern side. Just before arriving at Cafayate the canyon opens into the wide Río Calchaquí valley. See also Cafayate on page 786. This is a 12-hour excursion with a tour operator, covering 390 km and includes wine tasting at one of the bodegas; departs 07:00. El Indio runs several buses daily from Salta to Cafayate Jujuy via the autopista: This is a two-hour trip by bus. The 132 km road is sealed all the way. Leave the eastern suburbs of Salta on RN 9, skirting Cerro San Bernardo. Most buses make a short detour to serve the town of General Güemes. Turn off onto RN 34. The first township in Jujuy is Pampa Blanca. Most of the way you pass cultivated fields, growing such crops as tobacco, and orchards. Further on you pass through Lapachos, and El Cadillal with the airport serving San Salvador. This is primarily tobacco-growing country. The last townships before entering San Salvador are Ciudad Perico and Palpalá. See also Jujuy on page 822. The same trip but more scenic can be made via the cornisa also with Atahualpa buses. Although nearly 40 km shorter (total 94 km) than the route described above, it too takes three hours by Atahualpa buses since there are more stops. The road passes through scenic landscape whose hills and mountains are densely covered with shrubs and trees. You leave Salta on Avenida Bolivia going straight north. Twenty-five km north you pass through El Carmen, which is a wheat- and vegetable-growing area. Nearby is the Dique La Ciénaga, renowned for good pejerrey fishing. A little further north is Abra Santa Laura, on the border with Jujuy. Going past Dique Campo Alegre you see sailing boats on the lake. There is good fishing here too. Five km past the lake is La Caldera, which you

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can’t miss since the huge 25 m high statue of Christ is visible from afar; altitude 1455 m. At La Baquera are many camping spots with kiosks where you can buy asados (meals). The hills here are densely overgrown and difficult to penetrate. This is a very winding and picturesque road but is subject to being made impassable from rock falls and during the wet season Cerro San Bernardo: 1454 m high. Complejo Teleferico Salta runs cable cars from Parque San Martín to the summit; fares $6.00. It is also possible to reach the summit of this mountain by car. From the viewing platform there are panoramic views over the city and the distant cordillera. It is also possible to walk to the top along a mountain trail which commences at the General Güemes monument. This is a Via Crucis with stations of the Cross leading to the top of the mountain. At the summit there is a Large Cross erected in 1901 Fuerte Cobos: On the right bank of the Río Mojotoro in the Valle de Siancas, halfway between Salta and General Güemes. This fort was erected as a first-line defence against the attacks of the Chaco Indians. At first it was only an outpost to give warning to Salta of an impending attack, but in 1690 it became a fully fledged defence bastion under the governor of Salta, Don Diego Díaz Gómez. Despite this the Tobas and Mocovies crossed the lines of forts established along the Río Bermejo and continued to harass the settlers. They used the so-called Macomitas Trail which by-passed the fortifications and attacked Tucumán and Salta. The defensive character of Fuerte Cobos was enlarged in 1733 under governor Gerónimo Matorras. Despite a peace treaty between the Spanish and the Chaco peoples there was another large-scale invasion in 1775 and the fort was overrun. As the Indians were defeated in successive campaigns the fort lost its importance. During the Wars of Liberation General Manuel Belgrano stayed in Cobos on two occasions: in 1812 when he withdrew

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from the battle zone to Tucumán, and again in 1813 when he marched to the battle of Salta. At present the historic place consists solely of a two-storey building. Empresa Atahualpa runs daily buses Guachipas: A small town 97 km south at an altitude of 1120 m. From Guachipas RP 6, a scenic mountain pass road, leads up to Pampa Grande. The most scenic part are between El Cebillar (1380 m) and Casa de Arcos (1840 m) where the road within 20 km negotiates two passes: Cuesta del Cebillar (1850 m) and Cuesta del Lajar (1920 m). At Casa de Arcos a 2 km side track leads to some caves which were inhabited 1200–1400 A.D. by pre-Colombian tribes of the Santa María culture. The caves have rock paintings showing human figures and animals. At Pampa Grande are more archeological sites near a small mountain lake. From Pampa Grande the road continues downhill following the valley of the Río Grande de Sauce joining up with RP 25 which leads to Rosario de la Frontera. Empresa El Indio has one daily service leaving Salta at 06:30 passing through Casa de Arcos around 10:00 and arriving in Pampa Grande at 11:00; fare $11.00; the bus returns to Salta from Pampa Grande at 14:00. This part of the trip can be made as a day trip. For the adventurous it is possible to continue downhill following the Río Grande de Sauce. The lower part of the valley from El Potrerillo onwards to El Tala at the junction with RN 55 is served by three weekly services by Empresa Tala Sur San Lorenzo: A picturesque village some 11 km north-west of Salta, at the beginning of the Quebrada San Lorenzo which reaches an altitude of 1490 m. RP 28 is sealed throughout. Just before arriving at the quebrada is the prestigious Restaurant El Castillo, which serves traditional and international cuisine and has occasional impromptu peñas. The staff speaks English. Camping is possible further up at the picnic grounds but there are no facilities. San Lorenzo is a cool

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summer holiday resort and weekend retreat of Salteños on the Río San Lorenzo. Empresa Luis Chávez has 24 services daily to and from Salta first service at 05:30 and last service at 22:00; fares $1.00. The buses turn round at the quebrada and return. On Mon, Wed, Sat and Sun there are buses to Los Yacones, a further 15 km, already in a mountain region; fares $1.80 General Güemes is located at the intersection of RN 34 with RP 10 going east and RP 11 going west. It is 52 km east of Salta at an altitude of 734 m and has 23 000 inhabitants. Tourist facilities include restaurants, accommodation and Y.P.F. gas station. Atahualpa, T.A. Chevallier and TATA have regular daily bus services to Salta, Orán ($8.80, 3 hrs) and Rosario de la Frontera ($5.50), Tartagal, Pocitos and Tucumán Campo Quijano: 30 km west via RN 51; altitude 1520 m. It is the gateway to the scenic route to San Antonio de los Cobres through the Quebrada del Toro. From Campo Quijano on a different road and off the beaten track you can visit the Central Hidroelectica near El Corralito and continue further up to some mountain villages near El Cruce with Cerro Manzano (4170 m) in the background. Empresa Tanoa has daily 19 buses to and from Salta taking 1 hour and irregular services to the power station and beyond San Antonio de los Cobres: This is a 350 km return altiplano trip following RN 51. The road from Salta passes through the Quebrada del Toro, following the railroad as far as Puerta Tastil. Between Campo Quijano and San Antonio de los Cobres the road fords several streams which during spring carry enough water to cut the road; the train is then the only means of getting through. Shortly after Campo Quijano the road follows the Río Blanco through the Quebrada del Toro, a very scenic part. Almost immediately the mountains close in and the climb starts, and the sealed road gives way to a dirt road. The river bed is very wide here but there is little

SALTA water. Near the KM 28 mark the valley narrows, leaving just enough space for the one-lane road. The railroad is on the left-hand side and the first rail bridge appears. This is tremendous mountain scenery: steep walls, bare except for the round tree-like cacti which grow right up to the mountain peaks. Near the KM 36 mark the road and the railroad intersect at an unprotected level crossing. The quebrada becomes even narrower and almost all river crossings are by ford. At KM 41, just before El Candado, is another rail bridge; and after the village is still another rail bridge and a ford. At KM 49 is Chorrillos, a small Indian community consisting of half a dozen dwellings and a church. The Río Incamayo joins the river on the north side. This is the valley through which the Inca road passed in pre-Hispanic times. The scenery is spectacular. The swift-running river is forded again and the valley widens at the junction of the two rivers. On the valley base are a few chacras or maize fields. After El Antigal there are some strangely eroded rock formations which make excellent photographs. As you approach the altiplano the wind increases—again a very scenic spot, with views down into the valley where the railroad runs. The mountains on the left-hand side dissolve into isolated hills, the last steep section before finally reaching the altiplano. Just before this the bus stops for a break at the El Huaico restaurant. Nearby an old white church contrasts beautifully with the mountains in the background; another photograph opportunity! Just before Santa Rosa de Tastil (a partly excavated archeological site) are some picturesque old deserted houses. There is no accommodation at Santa Rosa de Tastil. Road and railroad meet again at Abra Muñano and continue together to San Antonio de los Cobres. Abra Muñano, a village of about 20 homesteads and a church, is the highest point of the trip: 4160 m. San Antonio de Los Cobres is in typical altiplano country, with vistas of

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snow-capped peaks and salinas in the distance. El Quebradeño bus: fares $28.00 return, travelling time: 10 hours, stay overnight in San Antonio de los Cobres. Some options for the fit: ° Option 1: Interrupt your trip at Santa Rosa de Tastil and hike to the pre-Hispanic ruins using part of the Inca trail; two days and take water ° Option 2: Visit Termas de Pompeya west of San Antonio, 30 km return ° Option 3: Visit Salinas Grandes 90 km north by following RN 40 in the Río San Pedro valley and continuing via Purmamarca to Jujuy and back to Salta. For this trip you need a 4WD vehicle. This round trip from Salta going through San Antonio de los Cobres, Jujuy via Purmamarca and returning to Salta takes at least 5 days. There is no gas between San Antonio and Purmamarca on RN 9. Tour operators organize trips with variations. This is an equally scenic trip by train; see Salta on page 794 San Antonio de los Cobres by hire car (Nissan 4WD!): car hire costs $230.00 — two days including petrol to San Antonio Beyond San Antonio de los Cobres to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile. From San Antonio de los Cobres to Cauchari the road and rail run more or less parallel. Here at Cauchari the railroad and road separate: the railroad turns south towards Socompa on the Chilean border and the road continues west, reaching its highest point at the Chilean border, at Paso de la Laguna Sico at an altitude of 4079 m. Once in Chile it descends to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile. The trip across the altiplano past salt lakes with flamingo colonies and the impressive deserts is very beautiful, but can be cold and uncomfortable. The road is in reasonable condition on the Argentine side, but on the Chilean side it is often very steep. There are no gas stations between San Antonio de los Cobres and Calama in Chile. Because of snow this route is passable

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for only part of the year. Empresa Quebradeño runs a bus service between Salta and San Antonio de los Cobres and beyond to Mina Tincalayo. A bus service runs from Salta to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile every Saturday, and returns on Wednesday. There is no water in the mountains, so if you plan to hike take your own Cuesta del Obispo (“Bishop’s Mountain Pass Road”): This tour goes via El Carril, and after Pulares the road enters the Quebrada de los Laureles and the Quebrada de Escoipe altitude 1940 m. It is a seemingly endless uphill drive along a winding road, fording little crystalline mountain streams on the way up, but it provides panoramic views. The bus goes as far as Piedra del Molino, from where the outline of the Nevado del Cachi (6380 m) can be seen Cachi: The bus follows RP 33 through the Quebrada de los Laureles and Escoipe but after Piedra del Molino continues through the Straight of Tin-Tin, a flat stretch of about 30 km,

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passing through Payogasta, altitude 2410 m, and arriving in Cachi after crossing the Río Calchaquí. At Cachi, a visit to the museum and lunch at the A.C.A. hostería, from where there are vistas of the surrounding countryside. See also Cachi on page 784 Río Calchaquí valley: The trip goes via the Cuesta del Obispo to Cachi. From Cachi it follows RN 40 along the Río Calchaquí passing through Molinos (where there is an exquisitely restored Jesuit mission church dating from the seventeenth century) and Angastaco, San Carlos, and Cafayate. The return trip passes through the Quebrada de las Conchas altitude 1600 m, and the Quebrada de Cafayate which has weird rock erosions and multicolored rock formations Termas de Reyes and Lagunas de Yala: Visits Jujuy and continues on to Jujuy Province’s best-known thermal resort. The Lagunas de Yala are a string of small lakes to the north of Termas de Reyes

SAN ANTONIO DE LOS COBRES

San Antonio de los Cobres Population: 3200 Postal code: 4411 @ area code: (0387) Altitude: 3775 m Distance • From Salta: 163 km north-west on RN 51 • From Antofagasta (Chile): 606 km east on RN 51

S

an Antonio de los Cobres is situated in the bleak and cold altiplano. It was capital of the Gobernación de los Andes until 1958, when the Gobernación was split up between Jujuy, Salta, and Catamarca Provinces. It is a typical altiplano town, and its situation there is superb: vistas of salt lakes, snow-covered peaks, and many hot springs nearby. It is the home of the remaining Diaguitas Indians, who are distant cousins to the altiplano Indians in Bolivia. The economic activity of the area centres around the many zinc, copper, and silver mines, some of them operated on a shoe-string basis by family units. It is cold all year round and at night the temperature drops below 0°C, so

San Antonio de los Cobres

bring your warm gear, especially if you intend to camp outside. San 810

SALTA unheated. Another departs 04:50 Fri; 11 hours; it comes from Socompa and is invariably late.

Antonio has gas, provisions, and accommodation.

A Festivals •

s Excursions

Fiesta de la Pachamama: August 1

From San Antonio a day excursion may be made to the Salar de Pocitos some 110 km south-west of San Antonio. The road and railroad line follow the same route. Another alternative is a visit to Santa Rosa de los Pastos via the Abra del Gallo, 4600 m, passing the thermal springs at Incachuli. On this trip Nevado Queva with 6130 m dominates the landscape. This is arid altiplano country and the main activity of the people living in this harsh environment is eking out a living by mining, especially the extraction of borax from the salares. Another possibility is to visit the thermal springs of Pompeya just 8 km west of town; no facilities, just the hot springs with a Diaguita family living there in makeshift dwellings. I did this hike on foot in one day. Make sure you return to San Antonio and the safe haven of your lodgings before night falls: it gets bitterly cold. • With your own 4WD vehicle it is possible to travel south on RN 40 towards Cachi in the Calchaquíes valley. The whole section between San Antonio and Cachi is difficult to say the least; take blankets and warm clothes on this trip. At Abra del Acay you reach 4900 m with superb vistas of Nevado de Acay to the east, 5950 m. From the pass the road descends to La Poma, altitude 3015 m. You can either by-pass La Poma or make a little detour into this altiplano village. Nearby is the little village of Pueblo Viejo which was destroyed by an earthquake and is now almost abandoned. From La Poma there are bus services from here to Cachi. It should be noted that this part of the RN 40 is often closed by snow and landslides caused by bad weather • Chile via the Paso de la Laguna Sico: This road, replaces the former road over the Paso Huaytaquina and is a considerable improvement. Fill up on gas in San Antonio as there is none until San Pedro de Atacama. Cars have to be in good condition to complete the journey successfully; make

C Accommodation •

Hostería de las Nubes, RN 51 @ 4909058/9 C Hospedaje Belgrano, Belgrano C Hospedaje Los Andes, Belgrano, on the Chilean exit road. Shared bathroom

S Buses

El Quebradeño has its ticket office in the Hospedaje Belgrano. Daily services to Salta $15.00 5 hrs and to Mina Tincalayu on Thurs $22.00 taking 6 hrs. The return bus from Mina Tincalayu to San Antonio and Salta leaves on Fri 12:00. Mina Tincalayu is located 220 km south of San Antonio on Salar del Hombre Muerto near the border of Catamarca. In fact you are only 150 km north of Antofagasta de La Sierra another altiplano destination in Catamarca Province; see page 731. This is a difficult trip and breakdowns are not unusual. A weekly bus service runs during the summer months between San Antonio and San Pedro de Atacama in Chile. See also the companion volume Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Region II de Antofagasta”.

T Trains

There are freight trains to and from Socompa on the Chilean border, but they do not follow a fixed timetable; these trains are not geared toward passenger transport but have one carriage for passengers. The small border village has no tourist facilities. The pass is at 3860 m and conditions are freezing. Smack on the border to the north is Volcán Socompa at 6031 m towering over the region. To the south near Volcán Llullaillaco is an archeological site at 4500 m. The “Tren a las Nubes” (a tourist train) runs through San Antonio on its way to the Polvarillo viaduct. When using the passenger train on the downhill journey sit on the right-hand side for the best views. The downhill trip takes 10 hours to Salta; it usually has only one carriage,

811

San Antonio de los Cobres

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sure you have a spare tyre, antifreeze, and plenty of water. The altiplano trip is rather monotonous, and passes many salinas, but it is scenically very beautiful on the Chilean side. Flamingo colonies live on the salinas. For those who appreciate desert scenery Mina La Concordia: La Concordia mine, 20 km west of San Antonio, is one of the biggest copper, zinc, and silver mines in the area. From the mine it is a 20-minute walk to Polvarillo viaduct, which was built for the railroad to Chile Termas de Pompeya: Located about 8 km west of San Antonio on RN 51. The turn-off to the hot springs is well sign-posted (“Baños Pompeya 1 km, Mina La Concordia 10 km”). The track to the right past the bridge can be used by cars. The stream is slightly sulfurous, pointing to its volcanic origin. Follow the track until you can see the houses on your right, then cross the river towards the houses. The hot springs are directly behind the houses, and emerge at about 35°C (90°F). The water is brought to the houses in rusted pipes. There are no tourist facilities. Some 100 m further behind is a pond which owes its existence to thermal springs, and is the

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source of the stream. This is a 21 2-hour hike through splendid altiplano country; on the way you can see wild llamas Termas de Incachuli, with the Nevado Queva right behind it: This is a 30 km trip westwards on RN 51. Fourteen km past San Antonio is the turn-off to the Termas along RP 129. There are no buses, so hitch a lift with mining trucks — but this could be a long wait Ruinas de Incahuasi: The remains of this Inca fortress is located near the small altiplano village of Potrero de Uriburu at 2680 m some 40 km from San Antonio de los Cobres. Best visited with a guide Parque Arqueológico Provincial Santa Rosa: Located in Santa Rosa de Tastil 106 km from Salta at 3110 m. It can be visited en route to San Antonio de los Cobres. The remains of a pre-Colombian city inhabited possibly by Diaguitas from 1000 to 1450 A.D. Fiesta Santa Rosa de Lima is celebrated on August 30 Susques: The drive north is a hazardous trip. Susques is better reached via Jujuy; buses go by this route. See also Susques on page 837

TARTAGAL

Tartagal Population: 45 000 Postal code: 4560 @ area code: (03875) Altitude: 500 m Distance from Salta: 365 km north-west on RN 34

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artagal owes its expansion to the oil discoveries made in the district. Founded only in 1925, it is geared to the promotion of adventure tourism, which includes visiting Franciscan Indian mission centers such as Carapari, the Río Bermejo and the selva areas of the chaco. Tartagal has good tourist facilities. The airport of General Mosconi is 10 km south of town with three weekly services to Salta by Tapsa. border. A bit further north is the border town of Pocitos — see page 793.

Also included here is the small village of Aguaray 32 km north of Tartagal on RN 34 to the Bolivian

Tartagal

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SALTA C Accommodation in Tartagal Hotels Argentino, San Martín 617 Espinillo, San Martín 122 • América, 20 de Febrero 525 • Las Malvinas, B. Rivadavia 540

*** **

Residenciales

A City, Alberdi 79 B Tropico, Rivadavia 571

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AEFGJLPUV AHP

@ 421117 @ 421007 @ 421404 @ 421165

$F $G $H

2 2 2

LP L

@ 421558 @ 421036

$H $G

2 2

Accommodation in General Enrique Mosconi General Enrique Mosconi is located 6 km south of Tartagal • Residencial Garcia, J.J. Urquiza 56 • Residencial Marisol, Alberdi

@ 481058 @ 481077

Accommodation in Aguaray

B Residencial Tropico, Virgilo de Britos near H. Yrigoyen L

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E Eating out •

Restaurant Círculo Argentino, Rivadavia 241

Q Border crossing

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The border for travelers from Bolivia to Argentina is open between 08:00 and 18:00. The border for those traveling from Argentina to Bolivia opens half an hour later. The Bolivian consulate is at Güemes 446.

Empresa Andesmar runs services to La Rioja, Tucumán, Catamarca, San Juan, and Mendoza; it also has a long distance run to Patagonian destinations via Córdoba Empresa Balut runs daily services to Salta and Jujuy ($7.00)

U Motoring

The road to Salta initially passes through flat country. Just before Embarcación it becomes hilly on the north side.

S Buses

s Excursions

The bus terminal is in Avenida Independencia on Plazoleta Güemes. • Atahualpa and La Veloz del Norte, 20 de Febrero 735 (@ 421057) run 12 daily services to Embarcación taking 1 hour 2 • Bosio, T.A. Chevallier, La Veloz del Norte run 5 daily buses to General Güemes taking 51 4 hrs • La Veloz del Norte runs 1 daily bus to J.V. González on the Santiago del Estero border • La Veloz del Norte and Bosio run 4 daily services to Metán and Rosario de la Frontera taking 7 hrs • Atahualpa, T.A. Chevallier, and TATA run 14 daily services to Pocitos taking 3 4 hour • La Veloz del Norte and T. A. Chevallier run 5 daily services to Tucumán taking 9 hrs • La Veloz del Norte runs 1 daily service to Orán taking 13 4 hrs

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Aguaray is a small place about 30 km north in the shallow Valle de Tartagal. The vegetation is tropical. Until Aguaray the eastern side of the road is flat chaco country. Just outside town across the railroad tracks there are some hot springs but without tourist facilities; the water is only luke-warm. Outside Aguaray is a checkpoint where all buses coming from the border are stopped and luggage is searched for contraband. Residencial Los Angeles, corner of Britos and Yrigoyen offers basic accommodation. The road north to Pocitos is a dirt road and follows the Río Carabar. Empresa Balut and Empresa Atahualpa run several buses daily to the border and to Salta and Jujuy

Tartagal

Stopovers

STOPOVERS

T

he two towns mentioned below are well off the beaten track; they are in the extreme east of Salta Province near the borders with Santiago del Estero and Chaco Provinces but on major highways. This is chaco country. Las Lajitas is on the main Salta–Formosa highway. • Hotel Las Lajitas, near the intersection of RP 5 and RP 30 @ 494131

El Quebrachal Nearest town described: Metán, 170 km west on RN 16 and RN 9 (page 789) • Hospedaje Querkus, San Martín @ (3877) 491132 Las Lajitas Nearest town described: Metán, 144 km south-east on RP 30, RN 16 (page 789)

Stopovers

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JUJUY JUJUY Jujuy

Plate 18 818 819 819 822 824 825 832 833 836 837 839 840 841

Map of Jujuy Province Abra Pampa Huacalera Humahuaca Jujuy

ACESsv CS ACEJKLSUYpqrstv ABCDEnJKLMNPRSUYapqrs tu Map of greater metropolitan area Map of the city center La Quiaca ABCEILMPQSUYcrst Map Libertador General San Martín BCD Susques ACSprsv Tilcara ACDEJKSUpqrst Map Stopovers C

ujuy is the northernmost province of Argentina. It shares borders with Bolivia in the north and west, Chile in the west, and Salta Province in the south and east. Most of the people have a similar ethnic origin to the people of Bolivia. The area covers 53 000 square km (20463 square miles) with a population of 550 000. Most of the province forms part of the arid altiplano much of it over 3500 m. The eastern section consists of subtropical lowlands while the area around the capital has a temperate climate.

J

The economic backbone of the province is mining. The biggest single mining enterprise is Minera Aguilar, which operates mines in Molino, Tres Cruces, and Veta Mina, employing about 10 000 staff.

The capital of Jujuy is known outside the province as Jujuy, though its official name is San Salvador de Jujuy. Within Jujuy Province it is generally known as San Salvador.

815

Jujuy

This is a very traditional province where pagan elements and Christian elements walk side by side. Many of the population in the altiplano still cling to traditions going back to pre-Colombian times, and thus have a very vivid and colorful folklore which is best observed during fiestas such as Carnaval and the Fiesta de Mamapacha, both held in towns throughout the province. From its earliest pre-Hispanic days Jujuy seems to have been on the invasion route of conquering armies. It has been established that the province formed part of the Inca Empire or “Collasuyo” since approximately 1480 AD. The domination by the Incas brought the Quechua language to this part of the empire, and it is still used today in the altiplano villages. With the arrival of the Spaniards pushing down from Peru in the middle of the sixteenth century a new era was ushered in: Christianity was introduced and embraced willingly by the populace, but with an admixture of paganism which has been accepted by the Church. One of the customs brought by the Spaniards is still practiced in this part of Argentina: the bullfight. But whereas in Spain and Mexico it is a bloody affair, here it is a question of skill: to remove a string of silver coins attached to the bull’s horns without being gored. In line with a long history there are many archeological sites bearing witness to an uninterrupted occupation of the land. The foremost archeological site is Tilcara, where a pre-Colombian city fortress is being painstakingly pieced together by archeologists. However, other sites abound in and about Humahuaca

Jujuy

where a type of chullpa (a pre-Hispanic burial site) is found which connects the area with the Tiahuanacu period, about 900–1100 AD. Most of these places are out of the reach of the average tourist, but for those interested in archeology the tourist office in Jujuy and the archeological museums in Tilcara and Humahuaca will provide information. Jujuy’s climate is influenced to a large extent by altitude. Jujuy Province can be divided into four different climatic regions: The ramal area in the east consists of subtropical and indeed tropical lowlands. Here the temperature in summer soars frequently to 40°C (100°F) with up to 1450 mm summer monsoon rainfalls. Winters in the ramal are dry. The focal point of the ramal is Libertador General San Martín. The Valles area around Jujuy city is the heartland with excellent climatic conditions resembling eternal spring. Temperatures in the Valles area are 10°C (50°F) in June/July and 21°C (70°F) in December/January. Rainfall is mostly in the summer months but rainfalls are evenly spread throughout the year. The Quebrada de Humahuaca — the Río Grande valley — begins from Volcán north west of Jujuy and goes up to Humahuaca. This is an intermediate climatic area with Humahuaca its focal point. The western part forms part of the puna reaching 4000 m where temperatures are often below freezing. The altiplano is a low rainfall area averaging 380 mm per annum. Please note that ramal, valle, quebrada and puna are also used to denote regional bus services.

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JUJUY The province’s road network is considerable. One of the latest feats is the construction of a road to Paso de Jama on the Chilean border and on the Chilean side it has been extended to San Pedro de Atacama, thus providing a link to the Pacific Ocean. On the Argentine side the road passes through Lipán, Salinas Grandes, and Susques. The highest mountain in Jujuy is Cerro Zapaleri , which forms the border between Bolivia, Argentina, and Chile.

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Thermal resorts

Areas of tourist interest

Most hot thermal springs occur in areas which are not accessible to the average tourist. The following thermal springs with some tourist facilities can be be visited: • Termas de Reyes, 19 km north west of Jujuy; see Excursions from Jujuy on page 829 • Termas de Caimancito, on the Río San Francisco some 20 km west of Libertador General San Martín. See page 837 • Termas de El Palmar: Located on the western side of the Sierra de Santa Bárbara a lush subtropical hill area 127 km east of Jujuy. There are five thermal springs ranging from 25°C–49°C (77°F–120°F) all with different chemical properties. Can be reached as a day excursion with local buses from Jujuy but there are no facilities. See excursions from Jujuy on page 832

Worth a detour

& The capital Jujuy & the Quebrada de Humahuaca & Tilcara Very interesting

& Parque Nacional Calilegua near Libertador General San Martín

& Termas de Reyes and the

Lagunas de Yala & Yaví & Iruya in neighbouring Salta Province with their Jesuit mission churches in splendid scenic mountainous country are recommended The trip to Susques via the Laguna Guayatayoc is recommended, although the accommodation is less than comfortable in those areas and nights are definitely chilly.

Typical meals in Jujuy

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National parks and natural monuments •

with a tour operator from Jujuy. For the intrepid outdoor enthusiast. See Excursions from Abra Pampa on page 818 Parque Nacional Calilegua: Located 12 km north of Libertador General San Martín. It is a subtropical mountain rain forest. It is possible to get there by public transport via Libertador General San Martín but best reached by tour operator from Jujuy. See Excursions from Jujuy on page 831 and from Libertador General San Martán on page 836

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Monumento Natural Laguna Pozuelos: Located 50 km west of Abra Pampa. This laguna has a large flamingo colony. Can be reached by local buses but best

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817

Picante de pollo (spicy chicken): $2.00 Locro (a stew containing meat and vegetables): $1.00 Cabrito (goat): $2.50 Lechón (sucking pig): $3.00 Cayote solo (a dessert based on squash): $0.70 Jujuy

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Cayote con nueces (a dessert with nuts): $1.00 Quesillo con miel de caña (cheese with sugar cane syrup): $0.70

Cuaresmillos (Lenten cookies): $1.00

ABRA PAMPA

Abra Pampa Population: 5600 Postal code: 4640 @ area code: (03887) Altitude: 3484 m Distances From Jujuy: 217 km north on RN 9 • From La Quiaca: 75 km south on RN 9 •

A

bra Pampa is an important mining town located in the altiplano. It is the gateway to places in the most north-western part of the province (and of Argentina) such as Laguna Pozuelos with its flamingo colonies. Accommodation is not very satisfactory: it is suitable only for the intrepid budget traveler. It gets very cold at night and warm clothing is a must. Snowfalls in summer are not uncommon.

A Festivals • •

° Humahuaca: $6.20 2 hrs ° Jujuy: $14.3; 5 hrs ° La Quiaca: $4.00; 1 1 2 hour ° Tilcara: $6.80; 3 hrs Buses to the north-west • There is a local bus into the north-western part of the province into areas hitherto untouched by tourism. Roads are bad and can be impassable during heavy rains. Suggested only for the hardy and intrepid. ° Casabindo: departs 10:30 Tues, Thurs, Sat. The bus continues to Tusaquilla, arriving at 13:30, and returns to Abra Pampa ° Coranzulí: departs 10:00 Mon, Wed, Fri. The bus returns the same day, leaving at 14:30. Fares: $6.50 ° Laguna Pozuelos (eastern side): departs 06:30 Mon, Wed, Sat Fares: $4.40, 3 hours; the bus continues to La Quiaca, arriving at 10:00 ° Laguna Pozuelos (western side, via Lagunillas): departs 10:30 Tues, Thurs, Fri The bus continues to Guayatayoc, arriving at 13:00, and then returns to Abra Pampa ° La Quiaca via Laguna Pozuelos $6.60 3 services weekly 4 hrs

Festival del Huancar: January Fiesta de Mamapacha: August

C Accommodation

B Residencial Césarito, S. Pérez 200 L @ 491001 $I 2 B Residencial La Coyita, Fascio 123 LP @ 491052 $I 2 C Residencial El Norte, Sarmiento 530 $I 2; the owner runs the Restaurant Terminal C Residencial Sol de Mayo, Senador Pérez 144 near Sarmiento. Shared bathroom

E Eating out •

Restaurant Terminal

S Buses

The daily bus service to Casabindo is sometimes interrupted during the wet season, from January till April. Buses along RN 9 to La Quiaca and Jujuy • Expreso Panamericano, Balut, La Veloz del Norte, El Quiaqueño, Atahualpa run 22 services daily to the destinations below:

Abra Pampa

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JUJUY s Excursions •

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Cochinoca: 25 km west. Colonial altiplano church Casabindo: A small altiplano village more reminiscent of Bolivia than Argentina was founded around 1590. It is located 50 km south-west of Abra Pampa on RP 11, altitude 3377 m. In pre-Hispanic times the Inca road to Chile passed through here. The church was built in 1772 and inside are pictures of the Cuzco school. The fiestas however are the big attraction here. On August 15 the Fiesta Nuestra Señora del Rosario (Our Lady of the Rosary) is held which attracts a large gathering of the nearby altiplano villages. This fiesta is steeped in pre-Colombian customs: suri dancers in the morning and in the afternoon the vincha bullfight. This is one of the few places in Argentina where some form of bullfight has survived. The bullfight is held in the plaza in front of the church and the torero (bullfighter) has to remove a string of money

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attached to the horns of the bull without getting hurt. Buses El Quiaqueño runs services from Jujuy on Mon, Wed, and Fri taking 51 2 hours; or from Abra Pampa it takes 1 hour; there are no hotels in Casabindo. Archeological buffs with a 4WD can combine the visit to Casabindo with a trip to Sorcuyo some 23 km south; here are the remains of a pre-Hispanic city. I do not recommend that you try to reach Laguna Guayatayoc on this difficult track. By tour operator from Jujuy: $80.00 Monumento Natural Laguna Pozuelos: 50 km west on a dirt road. It covers an area of 20 000 ha (49 420 acres) ranging from 3600 m 4320 m and includes several altiplano villages.The main attraction is its large flamingo colony — at least 50 000 birds — but fauna also includes vicuñas, llamas, pumas, and condors. The parks office is situated on the Río Cinsel.

HUACALERA

Huacalera Distance from Jujuy: 106 km north on RN 9

H

uacalera is located 16 km north of Tilcara on RN 9. Through Huacalera passes the Tropic of Capricorn which has a marker on the road. At this spot the Inti Raymi is celebrated at solstice; this celebration is a leftover from Incaic times. The 17th century church was the first resting place of the remains of General Lavalle. In this church there is also a very notable collection of pictures of the Cuzco school.

C Accommodation •

Hostal La Granja RN 9

HUMAHUACA

Humahuaca Population: 6500 Postal code: 4630 @ area code: (03887) Altitude: 2940 m Distance from Jujuy: 126 km north on RN 9

819

Humahuaca

H

umahuaca is located in the Quebrada de Humahuaca on the Río Grande. Because of the high altitude the nights are cold even in summer. The town is very Indian, and many pre-Hispanic traditions are still preserved behind a mantle of Christianity. The center of town is Plaza Sargento Gómez. The church was begun in the seventeenth century, but was remodeled and completed only in 1880. At 12:00 the figure of San Francisco Solano appears at the clock tower and blesses the town. Stairs lead up to the large Monumento a la Independencia (Independence Monument) on a hill in the middle of town. Humahuaca is the center of a very lively Carnaval, the Carnaval Norteño, with lots of water thrown around. Included here is the little town of Uquía with its sights and tourist facilities.

Accommodation in Uquía • Hostal de Uquía, RN 9 KM 99 @ (03887) 421039

A Festivals

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E Eating out Restaurants • Colonial, Tucumán 16 • El Fortín, Buenos Aires 200. Local cuisine • El Pinocho, Belgrano 346 • El Rancho, General Belgrano near Cordoba. Peña at weekends • La Cacharpaya, Jujuy 295. Local Cuisine and music • Peña de Fortunato, Jujuy near San Luis • Tejerina, Belgrano 36 • Terminal, Belgrano near Entre Ríos

I Post and telegraph

Fiesta de la Virgen de la Candelaria: January Fiesta de la Chicha y la Copla: February Solstice celebrations: June. Fires called luminarias are lit on the mountains Manca Fiesta (Festival of the Pots): October 17–24, when Indians from Jujuy and Bolivians from the altiplano sell handmade pots Fiesta de Mamapacha: August Carnaval: January

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L Finance

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Banco de la Provincia de Jujuy, Jujuy 327

S Buses

The bus terminal is on the corner of General Belgrano and Entre Ríos. Includes a cafeteria. Bus companies operating from Humahuaca Atahualpa, Cota Norte, Expreso Panamericano, Empresa Balut, La Veloz del Norte, La Internacional, El Quiaqueño, Transporte Mendoza Destinations • Abra Pampa ($6.20; 2 hrs); 22 daily • Iruya (31 4 hrs);10:15 Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat; Transporte Mendoza • Jujuy ($7.00; 21 2 hrs); 30 daily • La Quiaca ($18.00; 21 2 hrs); 20 daily • Mina El Aguilar; 1 weekly • Salta (43 4 hrs); 8 daily • Tilcara ($3.00; 1 hour); 30 daily • Tres Cruces; 5 daily Expreso Panamericano

Festivals in Uquía • Fiesta de la Cruz (Festival of the Cross): May 3. In honor of St. Madero and San Francisco de Paula

C Accommodation

Hotel Provincial de Turismo, Buenos Aires 630 AEFGJLPSUV @ 421154 $G 2 B Residencial Colonial, Entre Ríos 110 near bus terminal L @ 421007 $H 2 B Residencial Humahuaca, Córdoba 401 near bus terminal @ 421141 $H 2 • Albergue Juvenil, Buenos Aires 447 AL @ 421064 $J 1. Dormitory-style accommodation **

Humahuaca

Post office: Correo Argentino, Plaza Santiago Gómez, Buenos Aires Telephone: Telecom, Hotel de Turismo, Buenos Aires

820

JUJUY •

U Motoring •

Service station: A.C.A., Belgrano near Entre Ríos

Y Shopping

At the market near the railway station collas sell Indian herbal teas. • La Apacheta, Jujuy 357. Souvenirs • San Francisco Solano, E. Padilla 12. Souvenirs

p Sightseeing •

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Monumento a la Independencia, on top of a hill overlooking the town, the work of Tilcara sculptor Ernesto Soto Avendaño Museo Arqueologico Municipal (Municipal Archeological Museum) near the Monumento al la Independencia. In two rooms there are exhibits of funerary urns, and prehistoric artefacts Museo Folklórico Regional formerly the Instituto de Cultura Indígena (Institute of Native Culture), Buenos Aires 435, under the guidance of its director Señor Sixto Vázquez Zuleta, makes a vigorous effort to preserve and promote the traditions and language of the native population in the altiplano. It serves as a cultural center for the local population, and offers public courses in the Quechua language. The library, open to the public, specializes in anthropology, folklore, history, and archeology. Guided tours are available Catedral de la Candelaria. Founded originally in 1595 as Capilla de San Antonio de Humahuaca. Rebuilt in 1641 it was destroyed by an earthquake in 1873. Rebuilt using parts of the former walls. The pictures in the church are said to be authentic works of the Cuzco School, executed by the painter Marcos Sapaca in 1764. The picture of the Virgen de la Candelaria dates from 1640

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s Excursions •

Uquía is a small altiplano village of pre-Hispanic origin located in the Quebrada de Humahuaca at 2820 m just 8 km south of Humahuaca. The church was one of the first built in the province, 1691

821

Incacueva is located 50 km north of Humahuaca in the Quebrada de Chulín about 5 km from the RN 9. It is not only the site of an original Inca tambo but also a valuable site of indigenous rock paintings. There are several caves along the Arroyo Inca Cueva, about 4 km from its junction with the Río Grande, with rock paintings showing figures, animals and pre-Hispanic implements. One contentious question is raised by the horses painted on the walls: if it depicts horses brought by the Spaniards then at least some of the paintings are contemporary with the arrival of the Spaniards Rinconada: A small altiplano village with just 400 villagers. This is an old gold-mining town sitting on two known gold-bearing veins. The old Spanish colonial mine shaft can be visited. Probably already exploited in pre-Hispanic times. There is also a colonial church here Coctaca: Pre-Colombian ruins 8 km east. This is a 1 1 2 hours walk. Cross the river and take the first road on your left, which at first follows the river and then turns east. On arrival in the village ask at the school for further directions. The ruins are located 100 m above the Río Coctaca in a very strategic position. The remains of the Pucará de Yacoraite are on top of the hill, and the villagers lived at the base of the pucará or fortification. It was destroyed possibly during the advancement of the Incas. Some artefacts found point to Incan origin Iruya is a picturesque mountain village 69 km north of Humahuaca at 2730 m. Although it is located in Salta Province its only access is from Jujuy Province. Accommodation in Iruya and Hipólito Yrigoyen is a problem, but private accommodation can be found—ask the bus drivers. Besides its spectacular mountain setting the Iglesia Nuestra Señora del Rosario, built in the 17th century by the Jesuits, is the main attraction. The Fiesta Nuestra Señora del Rosario (Festival of Our Lady of the Rosary) is held on October 6. The participants in the procession wear fancy dresses and

Humahuaca

Humahuaca arrival in Iruya at 13:30 and returning the same day at 15:00 from Iruya arriving back in Humahuaca at 18:30; transport information @ (02887) 421016 Humahuaca

masks. Very colorful altiplano festivity with indigenous musical instruments and dances. At Ticonte 9 km west of the village is an archeological site. The four services per week provided by Transporte Mendoza could lend themselves for a very brief day visit of Iruya: leaving at 10:15 from

JUJUY

Jujuy Population: 200 000 Postal code: 4600 @ area code: (0388) Altitude: 1260 m Distances From La Quiaca: 292 km south on RN 9 • From Buenos Aires: 1654 km north on RN 9 • From Salta: 103 km north on RN 9 (“Cornisa”) •

J

ujuy was founded in April 1593 by Don Francisco de Argañaraz y Murguia. The missionary work was carried out by the Franciscan padres. The first attempts by the Spaniards to found a city were foiled by the Indians in 1565 and again in 1575. It is located at the junction of the Río Xibi Xibi and the Río Grande , which descends from the Quebrada de Humahuaca. Plaza Belgrano is the oldest part of town. Around the Plaza—as in days gone by—are the public buildings. Despite many earthquakes and wars there are a few historic buildings left. The city suffered heavily during the Wars of Independence; in 1812 as the Royalist troops advanced the citizens abandoned the town in a move known as the “Exodo Jujeño” (or “Jujuy Exodus”). The mountain ranges around Jujuy are covered by scrub and forest and provide a very picturesque scenic setting for the provincial capital. There are height restrictions on buildings as the city is in an earthquake zone. Most of the streets are lined with orange trees. Although the city is known outside the province as Jujuy, its official name is San Salvador de Jujuy. Within Jujuy Province it is generally known as San Salvador. Calle Belgrano, formerly called Real, is the main shopping street with many cafeterías. Campers and hikers should use the facilities in Jujuy.

Jujuy

Also included here are Termas de Reyes and Yala.

A Festivals

• • • •

Foundation of Jujuy: April 19 Festival de Locro: July. Locro is a thick vegetable soup Fiesta de la Pachamama: August 1 Exodo Jujeño (“Jujuy Exodus”): August 23 and 24

B Tourist information

• •

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Consejo Provincial de Turismo, in the railroad building, Urquiza near Gorriti @ 4221325/6 Dirección General de Recursos Naturales Renovables, Alvear 412 @ 4236600 fax 4236923

JUJUY C Accommodation in Jujuy Hotels **** **** *** *** *** ** ** ** * *

ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 4230186/9 Jujuy Palace, Belgrano 1060 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ English spoken @ 4230433 fax Augustus, Belgrano 715 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 4230209 @ 4230203 Fénicia, 19 de Abril 427 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY On the riverside @ 4231800 Jujuy Internacional, Belgrano 501 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 4231599 Asor’s, Urquiza 462 AEFGJLPUV @ 4223688 Avenida, 19 de Abril 465 AEFGJLPUV On the riverside @ 4236136 Sumay, Otero 232 AEFGHJLPSUV @ 4235065 fax Brisas, Almte Brown 1157 AELPSV @ 4226483 Purmamarca, Avenida El Exodo 825 AELPV Near bus station @ 4223141 Gran Panorama, Belgrano 1295

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Residenciales

A San Antonio, L de la Torre 993 LP Opposite the bus terminal A San Carlos, Siria 459 LP Near bus station B Belgrano, Belgrano 627 L B Chung King, Alvear 627 FL Shared bathroom cheaper B Los Andes, Siria 456 L Near bus station B Los Suspiros, General Mosconi 99 L B Norte, Alvear 444 Near railway station B Río de Janeiro, José de la Iglesia 1356 L For budget travelers

@

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4222286 4230393

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4228142

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4224315 4261115

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4222721

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@

4223700

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• Hotel Alto La Viña, P.López 50 RP 56 KM 4 Fax 4260973. On a hill ACDEFGHJKLPSTUVY @

4261666

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@

4260520

$H

2

@

4229464

$H

2

Accommodation in barrio Alto La Viña

Accommodation in barrio Los Perales

A Residencial El Balcón, El Fortín 12, RP 57 LP

Accommodation in barrio Gorriti *

Hotel Paso de Jama, Uriondo 546

AELPV

Accommodation in Termas de Reyes Located 19 km west on RP 4 Scenic drive through the Quebrada de Reyes. Thermal resort, altitude 1800 m. **

Hotel Termas de Reyes Fax 4233117

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@

4922522

$F

2

Yala Located 14 km north-west on RN 9.

• Cabañas El Refugio @ 4909344 $H 2 • Hostería de Yala, Abonado 41 @ 427432. Although small (only six double bedrooms), it is in an enchanting position. It has a fixed-menu restaurant, and all rooms have a private bathroom. It has marvelous views from the terrace

823

Jujuy

D Camping

To Tilquiza and Cuesta Larga

Yala

La Cuesta

Villa Acheral To Termas de Reyes

4

35

57

Va Jardín de Reyes

Alto La Viña San Salvador de Jujuy

To San Antonio

1 N

66

Los Alisos Embalse Dique Los Alisos

El Ceibal 9 26 To San Antonio To Salta

Key to map

Iglesia Catedral Palacio de Gobierno Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Migraciones Mercado Municipal Consejo Provincial de Turismo A.C.A. Banco de Galicia and Cambios Noroeste Bus Terminal

3 Accommodation 1 8 13 25 35 36 39 43 45 46 47 49 52 53

Hotel Gran Panorama Hotel Jujuy Palace Residencial Río de Janeiro Hotel Augustus Hotel Sumay Residencial Belgrano Residencial Chung King Hotel Jujuy Internacional Hotel Asor’s Residencial San Carlos Hotel Fénicia Hotel Avenida Residencial Norte Residencial Los Andes

4 Eating out 3

To San Pedro

To Juan Galan

2

Greater Jujuy

T

E Eating out

56

La Almona

P $

20

El Parque 78

A B C D E F G I

Camping on RP 2 • Complejo Los Alisos, San Antonio, 14 km south-west of the city. Has 30 cabins

To Las Capillas

9

Restaurant Manos Jujueñas

Jujuy

4 12 14 15 23 24 27 34 38

Restaurants • Restaurant Chung King, Alvear 627. Peñas and tangos • El Paso, Avenida España 1560 & • El Exodo, Avenida El Exodo 190 • Krysys, Balcarce 272. Parrilla • La Rueda, Lavalle 320. International cuisine • La Ventana, Belgrano 749 downstairs. International cuisine • Madre Tierra, Otero near Belgrano. Vegetarian cuisine • Mamma Mía, San Martín near Lamadrid. Pasta • Manos Jujueñas, Senador Pérez 222 • Ruta 9, Lavalle 287. International cuisine

Restaurant Sociedad Española Restaurant Sociedad Sirio Libanés Restaurant Krysys Cafetería Bugatti Cafetería La Royal Pizzería Belgrano Restaurant La Ventana Restaurant Ruta 9 Restaurant La Rueda

5 Entertainment 6 10 11 16 40

Cine Opera 1 and 2 Teatro Mitre Casino Provincial Cafetería Carena Restaurant Chung King

6 Airline offices

5 Dinar S.A. 20 Austral Líneas Aéreas

30 Museo Arqueológico Provincial 37 Iglesia San Francisco 50 Museo Histórico Policial 54 Museo Darwin de Paleontologia y Mineralogia 55 Plaza Belgrano

0 Services 2 7 17 18

19 28 29 31 32 41

7 Tour operators and car 42 rental 44 9 Avis Rent-a-Car 22 Tour operator Horus 26 Tour operator Graffitti 33 Fati Tour

48 51 56

9 Sights

21 Museo Histórico Provincial Juan Galo Lavalle

824

Spanish consulate Laundromat Marva Banco Río. ATM Camping gear: Anun Chico Bolivian consulate Savio Kolor Azúcar Cueros Buses Tacita de Plata Centro de Artesanos Jujeños Farmacia Sarmiento Souvenires Yankay Huarmis Chañi Folk Regionales Incallajta Dirección General de Recursos Naturales Renovables Disused railroad station

JUJUY To Termas de Reyes

To Humahuaca

To La Quiaca

N

ZCO 6

RP NADO

SE AVE.

10

AR

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18

16

IGUAZÚ

RCE

A BALC 13

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40 39

To San Pedro

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54

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3

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4 5

A NCI NDE EPE IND RIL DE AB

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19 AVE.

ADA

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To Alto La Viña AVE. J.M. FASCIO

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L. DE LA TORRE

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BANDERA AVE. LA FREIRE C

LIA . ITA AVE

JUJUY

To Salta

825

Jujuy

•

N Clubs

Sociedad Sirio Libanés, General Lamadrid 560. Lebanese cuisine • Sociedad Española, Belgrano 1101 • Vieja Palmera, Avenida Almte. Brown 910 Pizzerías • Belgrano, Belgrano 776 • La Vanguardia, R. de Velasco near San Martín

•

P Visas, passports

• • •

Cafeterías • Bugatti, Belgrano 836 • Carena, Belgrano 899. Pub • La Royal, Belgrano 766 • Lola Mora, Salta 650

El Cadillal airport is 32 km east of town or 45 minutes by bus. • TEA Turismo, San Martín 734, runs buses to the airport for $2.00; taxis cost $15.00 Airlines • Austral Líneas Aéreas, San Martín 735 @ 4225414 fax 4223897 • Dinar S.A., Senador Pérez 308 @ 4237100 Services • Buenos Aires (Aeroparque Jorge Newbery): 1–2 services daily; 3 hours; Austral

n Entertainment •

Casino Provincial, Avenida Fascio 1056 • Cine Opera 1 and 2, Alvear 1125 • Peña de los Hermanos Caballeros, Avenida Almte. Brown 1645 • Peña El Coya Bolívar, L. de la Torre 634 • Teatro Mitre, Alvear near Lamadrid Entertainment in Alto La Viña • Gizeh, disco show • Sky Lab, disco show

U Motoring

The trip to Salta can be made via Güemes on the autopista (RN 9 and RN 66), or over the cornisa. RN 9 to La Quiaca is sealed only as far as Humahuaca. Service stations • A.C.A., Avenida Senador Pérez block 400 (corner of Alvear) Car rental • Avis Rent-a-Car, Belgrano 1060 @ 4236130. • Localiza Rent-a-Car, Almte Brown 695 @ 4254800 • Luis Alberto Lavalle, Lavalle 268 @ 4228405

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Otero 262 Telephone: Telecom, Avenida Senador Pérez 141 Telephone: Telecentro, Belgrano 696

L Financial • • •

Banco Río, Alvear 802. ATM Banco de Galicia, Necochea 409 Cambios Noroeste, Belgrano 785. Cash and travelers’ checks

M Services and facilities • • • •

Y Shopping

Photography: Savio Kolor, Necochea 333 Camping and fishing gear: Anun Chico, Alvear 887 Pharmacy: Farmacia Sarmiento, Independencia 501 Laundromat: Marva, Independencia 1031. Open Mon–Sat 09:00–21:00

Jujuy

Bolivian consulate, Güemes 828 @ 4222010 Italian consulate, Fascio 660 @ 4223199 Spanish consulate, Ramírez de Velasco 362 @ 4228193

R Air services

Eating out in Yala • Restaurant Los Nogales, RP 4. Trout

•

Italian: Sociedad Italiana, Avenida José María Fascio 1056

The main shopping streets are Alvear and Belgrano. • Azúcar Cueros, Necochea 479. Leatherware • Centro de Artesanos Jujeños, Avenida 19 de Abril block 600 near Necochea. Souvenirs • Regionales Incallajta, 19 de Abril 445. Souvenirs

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JUJUY S Buses from Jujuy

The bus terminal is on Avenida Dorrego 365 near Iguazú and has a 24-hour restaurant, clean toilets, and left luggage facilities. Bus companies • A9 Atahualpa, Pilcomayo 1345 @ 4223914 • A16 Bosio, Dorrego 365 @ 4234043 ° Catamarca via Salta and Tucumán; 1 daily at 22:00 ° Libertador General San Martín; 3 daily • A33 T.A. Chevallier • A37 Expreso Panamericano, @ 4227281 ° La Quiaca; 3 daily • A43 Cooperativa Norte, Lisandro de la Torre @ 4226911 • A71 TATA ° Libertador General San Martín; 1daily • A81 Empresa Andesmar @ 4233293 • A85 Balut Hnos, Terminal de Omnibus @ 4222134/4231157 ° Libertador General San Martín (21 2 hrs) via La Mendieta, San Pedro (11 2 hrs) and Fraile Pintado; 19 daily ° San Pedro (11 2 hrs) via La Mendieta; 19 daily ° Yuto (33 4 hrs) via Libertador General San Martín, Calilegua, and Caimancito; 4 daily; first bus 8:45 • A97 Empresa Itatí • A155 La Estrella @ 4234409 • A157 La Internacional @ 4236068 ° Salta via Perico • A164 La Veloz del Norte, @ 4232366 /4233886 ° Libertador General San Martín via San Pedro; 1 daily • A211 T.A.C. @ 4234258 • A291 Empresa Purmamarca ° Susques (61 2 hrs) in the altiplano via Purmamarca on Wed and Sat at 13:30, returning Thurs and Sun at 12:00, crossing the Abra Potrerillos and the Salinas Grandes of Jujuy • A292 Tacita de Plata, Urdininea 367 @ 4222132/4227527 ° Aguas Calientes (21 2 hrs) via El Carmen, Perico, Puesto Viejo, and Manantial; 6 daily ° Perico (11 2 hrs) via El Carmen; 10 daily ° San Antonio (3 4 hrs); 6 daily • A293 Tramaca @ 4236438 • A295 El Quiaqueño • Coop Cap. T. Juárez Matorras, Ave. Martijena 14 ° Palpalá (1 2 hour); every 10 minutes Longdistance services • • • • • • • •

Destination Abra Pampa Aguas Blancas Buenos Aires Catamarca Córdoba Corrientes Formosa Humahuaca

Fare $11.00

Services 5 daily

$85.00 $30.00 $36.30

5 daily 3 daily 3 daily 2 weekly 2 weekly 30 daily

$46.20 $6.60

Duration Company 51 2 A37 A9, A85 22 hrs A37, A85, A155, A157 91 2 hrs A16, A81, A155, A157 14 hrs A85 ,A155, A157 A164, A211 A97, A157 20 hrs A9, A164 3 hrs A9, A37, A43, A85, A157, A164, A295

827

Jujuy

JUJUY Buses from Jujuy — continued • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

•

La Quiaca $25.00 20 daily La Rioja $38.00 4 daily Libertador General San Martín $6.20 18 daily Mendoza $74.00 1 daily Orán $7.70 Pocitos $12.10 Purmamarca $3.50 11 daily Resistencia 2 daily Salta $5.50 8 daily San Juan $70.00 2 daily San Pedro de Atacama (Chile) $60.00 Tues, Fri Santiago del Estero $28.00 6 daily Termas de Reyes $1.30 Termas de Río Hondo $21.10 3 daily Tilcara $4.40 9 daily Tucumán $15.00 10 daily

7 hrs A9, A37, A43, A85, A157 12 hrs A16, A81, A155, A157 21 2 hrs A16, A85 20 hrs A16, A81, A157 A85 A9, A16, A85, A157, A164 11 2 hrs A37, A43, A85, A291 A157 2 hrs A9, A81, A85, A157, A164, 18 hrs A16, A81, A157 11 hrs A293 7 hrs A37, A164, A211 Local bus #14 6 hrs A37, A164, A211 2 hrs A37 51 2 hrs A9, A16, A37, A81, A164

Yankay Huarmis, Sarmiento 240. Silverware, china, and leather

a Sport

• Gliding: Aeroclub Jujuy Golf Clubs in Jujuy Province • La Esperanza Golf Club, La Esperanza 4503 @ (03884) 4220000/ 4220181; 9 holes • Casino General San Martín (Zapala), Martín Palpalá 4612 @(03882) 430163

p Sightseeing

Start your sightseeing walk on Plaza Belgrano. Museums and galleries • Museo Histórico Provincial Juan Galo Lavalle (Juan Galo Lavalle Provincial History Museum), Lavalle 252. This house belonged originally to Doraliza Blas de Zenarruza, wife of one of the governors of Jujuy. It is a colonial home and was declared a national monument in 1962. General Lavalle was murdered in the doorway here in 1848. The original doorway is in Buenos Aires. The museum is organized into seven rooms, each dealing with an important epoch in the history of Jujuy. The rooms are Sala General Lavalle, Sala Independencia

• •

•

•

828

(“Independence Room”), Sala Doraliza Blas de Zenarruza (which has on exhibit the piano from the original chapel in Humahuaca dating back to 1745), Sala de Arte Religioso y Colonial (“Room of Religious and Colonial Art”), Sala de los Gobernadores (“Room of the Governors”), Sala del Vestido Siglo XIX (“Room of Nineteenth Century Costume”), and Sala del Exodo Jujeño (“Room of the Jujuy Exodus”). It is one of the best-preserved colonial houses, with two patios and galerías surrounding it. Open daily 09:00–13:00 and 16:00–20:00. Small admission charge. Worth a visit Museo Arqueológico Provincial (Provincial Archeological Museum), Lavalle 434 Museo Darwin de Paleontologia y Mineralogia (Darwin Paleontology and Mineralogy Museum), Gorriti between Belgrano and Alvear. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–12:30 and 15:00–17:00 Palacio de Gobierno (Governor’s Palace), San Martín on the south side of Plaza Belgrano. On the first floor is the Salón de la Bandera, where the first flag of Argentina is kept Museo Histórico Policial (Police History Museum). Located in the Cabildo Histórico (Historic Council

Jujuy

JUJUY Chambers); Belgrano corner of Sarmiento on the north side of the Plaza. Built in the late eighteenth century. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–12:00 and 16:00–20:00. Weekends in the afternoon Churches • The Iglesia Catedral (Cathedral Church) is located on the west side of Plaza General Belgrano. The cathedral was built in 1750 and has been declared a national monument. It contains such fine images as Nuestra Señora de Río Blanco (Our Lady of Río Blanco) and El Cristo Yacente. The pulpit is made of wood and is gold plated; some of the confessionals were built by Indian craftsmen. The church constitutes an exceptional colonial art treasure • Iglesia San Francisco, Belgrano near Lavalle

s Excursions Tour operators • Chañi Folk, Sarmiento 328 @ 4231806 fax; trekking • Fati Tour, San Martín 620 @ 4233473 fax 4312821; trekking • Fundación Recrear, Otero 220 @ 4228653. If interested in the Cuzco style of paintings this association organizes from time to time excursions conducted by tour guides to various localities in the province where paintings and objets d’art of the Cuzco school are kept • Graffitti, Belgrano 731 @ 4231868 fax • Horus, Belgrano 722 @ 4230213 fax 431454 Day trip excursion fares • City tour $7.50 • Dique La Ciénaga $15.00 • Tilcara $25.00 • Purmamarca $17.50 • La Quiaca–Villazón (Bolivia) $90.00; 2 days Excursions • Termas de Reyes: 19 km north-west first on RN 9 and then on RP 4, 45 minutes by bus; elevation 1750 m. The main attraction is the hot springs set in magnificent scenery in the Río Reyes valley. There are eight thermal

•

829

springs ranging from 25°C to 50°C (77°F to 122°F) with different chemical properties. The Hotel Termas de Reyes has good facilities and the spring water at a temperature of 52°C (126°F) is well known for its curative properties. The vistas from the dining room over the river and the mountains are particularly impressive. There are 50 rooms, with central heating and thermal water in all rooms. The hotel has a fixed-menu restaurant and a cafeteria. There is a swimming pool on the ground floor, and there are also individual spas. It is open all year round. There are walks to the Lagunas de Yala at an elevation of 2036 m. The road is sealed right up to the hotel, but may be cut during heavy rain. Ten minutes past the Hotel Termas are two municipal thermal spas; it is from here that you catch a bus to Jujuy. The main holiday season runs from June until the middle of August, during which time doctors and nurses are employed. During this period bookings are advisable. Línea 14 (Empresa General Lavalle) runs seven services daily from Central Municipal bus terminal, on 19 de Abril between Necochea and Lavalle, and also from the corner of Dorrego and L N Alem; the trip takes an hour. The last bus returns to Jujuy at 22:40 Lagunas de Yala: 27 km from Jujuy and 12 km from the village of Yala. There are no direct bus services to these lakes. Take the autopista north as far as the village of Yala (elevation 1445 m) where the sealed road ends at the bridge crossing over the Río Yala. Yala is a holiday resort with many weekend retreat villas, many of them with swimming pools in the back. From here onwards the road ascends, following the Río Yala with its crystal clear waters for most of the way. This river carries water all year round in large quantities, forming many waterfalls and cascades with inviting spots for camping. The valley widens and there are many fern trees along the slopes. Everything is green around here: a subtropical paradise. It is a truly enchanting landscape through which the road winds itself

Jujuy

•

straw-thatched roofs. The people are quite Indian-looking. The mountain behind the village shines in seven different colours—hence its name, Cerro de los Siete Colores (“Mountain of the Seven Colors”). The mountains here are still densely covered in vegetation, being covered halfway up with shrubs, which then thin out and are replaced towards the peaks with cacti. After Purmamarca there is a 2 km rock-fall zone which can be closed during bad weather. Constant road works are in progress. From Purmamarca onwards there are no villages for nearly six hours, only isolated homesteads tucked away in the valley. As the road zigzags higher the trees and shrubs are left behind, giving way to desert-type plants. The bare parts of the mountains show all shades from green to gray to reddish. Past La Ciénaga there is a narrow bridge crossing over the Río Huachichocana. Small flocks of goats, sheep, llamas, and vicuñas appear. Hawks circle in the thin air. At the Cuesta de Lipan the road reaches its highest altitude, 4170 m, making hairpin turns to gain height. It is a fabulous sight to look down on the road which you have just negotiated. Abra Blanca is the highest point. From here Cerro Chañi , 6200 m high, and many salt lakes can be seen in the distance. Not far away is the junction of RN 40 coming up from Patagonia and joining with RN 9 south of Abra Pampa. Now the road traverses an immense high-altitude plain (puna or altiplano) w i t h t h e S a l i n a G r a n d e, 5 2 5 square km (203 square miles), one of the largest in the north. From the junction the road becomes a straight line for almost 40 km until you arrive at the Quebrada del Mal Paso (“Canyon of the Bad Pass”), where the road becomes very narrow. Here because the sunlight cannot penetrate into the cañon the water flowing down the slopes is usually frozen. As you emerge from the cañon road works are under way to the Paso de Jama. Your arrival in Susques is announced by huge white-painted parabolic antennas which contrast with the

upward until we arrive at the laguna situated at an altitude of 2200 m. At the crossroads you can go to Laguna Desaguadero, the first of the Yala lagunas, where there is a trout hatchery. Fishing in Laguna Desaguadero is prohibited. The next laguna is Comodoro, completely surrounded by trees such as huge willows, laurels, and fern trees. The last laguna in the system is called Laguna de Rodeo. Fishing is permitted in Laguna Comodoro and Laguna de Rodeo on Sat and Sun between 07:00 and 20:00. There are however no trout, only pejerrey. The rivers which contain trout are the Río Tesorero, Río Guerrero, and the upper reaches of the Río Reyes. On the banks of Laguna de Rodeo is a new hostería—see below. Past the hostería are a few camping grounds on the laguna, with tables and barbecue facilities, but no toilet facilities. Tour operators combine Termas de Reyes and Lagunas de Yala in a five-hour excursion; fare $17.50 Susques: 219 km north-west. At the moment no tour operators organize trips so it is largely a do-it-yourself excursion by public transport, but it is a first-class excursion. Leaving Jujuy on RN 9 north, you cross the Río Reyes bridge 6 km further on, at a good camping spot. Seven km further on you arrive at the Río Yala, and follow it until you reach Posta de Lozano. At this stage it is not known whether the hostería is open or not. Past the village is the Río Lozano. After crossing the Río Kalayo, you arrive in León, which has a small local museum in a historic building. From here you pass through apple orchards until Volcán, the first village in the Quebrada de Humahuaca. Here the road starts to climb. Thirteen km past Tumbaya, with its mission church built in 1796, you leave RN 9 and enter RP 16. Four km uphill—the road becomes quite winding and steep—you arrive at Purmamarca, with its beautiful mission church. Time seems to have stood still in this picturesque village with its narrow streets and adobe houses with

Jujuy

830

JUJUY

•

•

surrounding area. Susques is a cold place, and is windy all year round. The adobe houses are small and straw-thatched. The main street is planted with trees, and contains the main public buildings such as post office, station, school, town hall, and the small historic chapel. The chapel is in perfect condition. Inside is an altar made entirely from cactus wood, behind which is a smaller chapel with an image of the Virgen de Belén (Virgin of Bethlehem). The walls are painted white and bear murals of saints. The church tower stands apart from the church. This little Indian settlement has a constant electricity supply and telephone connection with the outside world; apart from this Susques may be regarded as a “time capsule”. The long trip—eight hours—is mostly over bad roads but is exhilarating. The bus is usually packed full as villagers carry huge parcels to and from the lowlands, including animals such as dogs, cats, and chickens. This trip is suggested for the hardy and intrepid—a real Andean experience. See also Susques on page 837 Tiraxi: 40 km north at the junction of the Río Tesorero and Río Tiraxi. This is considered a natural monument because of the natural beauty of the many narrow valleys. The trip goes via Lozano, where RP 29 begins, over an unsealed road. There are no direct buses so you have to improvise if you want to go there; ask at the bus terminal. Río Tiraxi flows east into the Río Candelaria. This is hiking country Parque Nacional Calilegua. This national park is situated 49 km south-east on RP 56 then 65 km north on RN 34, and 10 km north of Libertador General San Martín. The road is sealed all the way. You leave Jujuy via RN 56, passing through San Pedro de Jujuy. Fields along the road are planted with sugar cane and alfalfa. At San Pedro take RN 34 through the villages El Quemado and Chalicán to the Río San Francisco. The bus terminates at the village of Calilegua. The turnoff into RP 83 leading to the national park is 3 km

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•

831

north of the town center. From here onwards you proceed through dense tropical vegetation. Balut Hermanos run direct buses daily from the bus terminal to the national park turnoff, every two hours. Traveling time is three hours. A tour operator costs $30.00. See also Excursions from Libertador General San Martín on page 836 and and introduction on page 817 Quebrada de Humahuaca: Tour operators organize day trips leaving Jujuy at 08:00 via RN 9 north. The first of the quebrada towns is Volcán. Nearby is the small Laguna de Volcán. Seven km further on or 51 km north of Jujuy is Tumbaya altitude 2084 m The major item of interest is the church, which was completed in 1796 but was presumably a Jesuit foundation. On September 24 the Fiesta Virgen de la Merced (Virgin of Mercy)is held. La Posta de Hornillos, founded in 1772, was a stage coach post where horses were exchanged for the long and tiresome journey to Alto Perú, in what is today Bolivia; it is now a national museum. Further on is Tilcara, also known as the “archeological capital of Jujuy”. Here you visit the famous pucará or pre-Hispanic fortress. Thirteen km further north you pass near Huacalera the Tropic of Capricorn, marked with a monolith. Here on June 21 every year the villagers celebrate the Fiesta Inti Raymi, the Incan festival of solstice. The mission church of Huacalera, dating back to 1720, is also visited. Humahuaca is the highlight of the Quebrada tour with its narrow streets lined with adobe houses, most of which date back to the colonial period. Also notable is the huge Monumento a la Guerra de la Independencia Hispanoamérica (Monument to the War of Spanish-American Independence) overlooking the Plaza. At 12 noon San Francisco Solano appears at the clock tower and gives his blessings. By tour operator: $27.50. See also Humahuaca on page 819 Salta via the cornisa: Tour operators organize a 10-hour day tour to Salta

Jujuy

Indians living in the adjacent Chaco. The thick walls consisted of a double stretch of walls which was filled with rubble. The fort was built in a regular form. Archeologist believe that the Spanish village was built on top of a pre-existing indigenous village site. This part of Jujuy is difficult to reach as there is no regular bus service; it is a trip for the adventurous. Best reached by taking Expreso Tacita de Plata bus to Santa Clara. From here it is a further 37 km on a winding road to Santa Bárbara. It should be noted that the Termas de El Palmar are located 35 km north of Santa Bárbara

leaving Jujuy via RN 9 south; fare $25.00. Budget travelers see Buses above. See also Salta on page 794 Termas de Caimancito: See Excursions from Libertador General San Martín on page 837 Fuerte de Santa Bárbara: This little village of 450 inhabitants, altitude 1300 m, is located in the extreme south-east of the ramal, an area few tourists come to. The location is superb between the Serranía de Santa Bárbara 2500 m and Cerro Centinela 1970 m. It is the site of an old Spanish fort which was built here to guard against the incursions of the Toba

• •

LA QUIACA

La Quiaca Population: 12 000 Postal code: 4650 @ area code: (03885) Altitude: 3442 m Distances From Jujuy: 292 km north on RN 9 • • From Villazón in Bolivia: 3km south on RN 9

L

a Quiaca is located directly on the Bolivian border, and almost merges with its Bolivian neighbor Villazón. There is a very active border trade for goods which are in short supply in Bolivia.

A Festivals

It is the highest town in Argentina with a very dry climate—most rain falls in November but you need warm clothing all year round. This section also includes the little altiplano villages of Yavi, Cieneguillas, Santa Catalina, and Casira.

Key to map A C D E G I P $ T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telephone Mercado Municipal Tourist information A.C.A. Banco de la Nación Bus terminal

La Quiaca

•

Manca Fiesta (Festival of the Pots): October 17–24. Indians from Jujuy and Bolivia congregate to celebrate a pre-Hispanic fiesta with Christian overtones but the main venue is the pottery market Festivals in Cieneguillas • Fiesta del Cambalache: February

3 Accommodation

3 Residencial Frontera 4 Residencial Crystal 10 Hotel de Turismo La Quiaca

4 Eating out 6 7 8 9

Restaurant Club Social Restaurant Canales Restaurant Lavalle Restaurant Sandy

832

11 Cafetería Avenida

0 Services 1 2

5 12 13 14 15

Bolivian passport control Argentine passport control Artesanías La Quiaca Empresa Vilte buses Defunct railroad station Empresa El Quiaqueño Bolivian Consulate

JUJUY To Tupiza

To Tarija

LA QUIACA

TOWN OF VILLAZÓN 1

BOLIVIA Río La Quiaca 2

I

ARGENTINA ENTRE RIOS

N EXODO JUJEÑO

AVENIDA BOLÍVAR

P

12 DE OCTUBRE 9 DE JULIO SANCHEZ DE BUSTAMENTE

3 6

10

8

9

To Santa Victoria

BALCARCE

AVENIDA ESPAÑA

E

SALTA

GÜEMES

25 DE MAYO

REPÚBLICA ARABE SIRIA

T

7

RIVADAVIA

AVENIDA SARMIENTO

BELGRANO

AVE. LAMADRID

AVENIDA REPÚBLICA ARGENTINA

4

5

PELLEGRINI C

$

G

12

A

AVENIDA H. YRIGOYEN AVENIDA SAN MARTÍN

13

To Yavi

14

D

CATAMARCA SAN JUAN 15

To Humahuaca

833

To S.S. de Jujuy

La Quiaca

B Tourist information

M Services and facilities

• •

There is a tourist information office right at the Argentine customs office. The A.C.A. service station a kilometer from the border post has good road maps of Argentina for sale. Discounts for A.C.A. members.

P Visas and passports

•

C Accommodation

Passport control is carried out on either side of the bridge spanning the Río La Quiaca. The Bolivian checkpoint opens one hour earlier than the Argentine side due to the difference in time zones. The Bolivian and Argentine lunchtimes coincide. The Argentine checkpoint is open 08:00–18:00. After that you may enter Bolivia without a passport check, to check out and arrange travel into Bolivia, but may not take your luggage with you. This border crossing is open all year round. La Quiaca and Villazón virtually merge. It is a long walk uphill from the Bolivian customs to the center of Villazón, so it is advisable to hire a porter (at very reasonable rates) to help you with your luggage. On the way up you pass scores of money exchange offices; most of them accept only cash but a few also take travelers’ checks.

E Eating out Restaurants • Canales, 9 de Julio 464 • Club Social, 25 de Mayo 27 • Club Social Sirio, Belgrano 150 • Lavalle, Rivadavia 432 • Rinconcito Quiaqueño • Sandy, Rivadavia 473 Cafeterías • Avenida, Avenida Sarmiento 363 • Cristal, Avenida Sarmiento 539 (downstairs from Residencial Cristal) • Victoria, Avenida Sarmiento on the Plaza

U Motoring

There are two service stations in La Quiaca. • Service station: A.C.A., at the intersection leading to the border. Has information on road conditions in the province and maps for all Argentina

I Post and telegraph •

Y Shopping

Post office: Correo Argentino, Avenida Sarmiento 271 Avenida San Juan Telephone: Telecom, Avenida 25 de Mayo near Avenida España

La Quiaca is a huge supply base for all goods which are in short supply in Bolivia. • El Puneño, Belgrano 64. Souvenirs • La Quiaca, Avenida Sarmiento 543. Souvenirs

L Financial

s Excursions

There are few exchange facilities in La Quiaca; better in Villazón, Bolivia. • Banco de la Nación, Avenida Lamadrid near the A.C.A. office is open until 13:00. Reasonable rates for dollar notes only

La Quiaca

Bolivian consulate, San Juan near República Arabe Siria

Q Border crossing

Note that accommodation in Villazón in Bolivia is not of the same standard as in La Quiaca. It is suggested that you check out travel arrangements into Bolivia while you stay a day in La Quiaca. This may also help those who have to get accustomed to traveling at high altitudes. ** Hotel de Turismo La Quiaca, Arabe Siria near San Martín AEFGJLPUV @ 422243 $H 2 A Residencial Crystal, Avenida Sarmiento 539 LP @ 452255 $H 2 B Residencial Frontera, Belgrano near República Arabe Siria L @ 452269

•

Hospital: Patricias Argentinas Photography: Luz y Sombra, 25 de Mayo 70

•

834

Yaví, 16 km east at 3442 m is so close to La Quiaca, on a good road, that you should not miss it simply for the sake of hurrying on to Bolivia. Its main attraction is a fine mission church, dedicated to San Francisco, with magnificent gold decorations. The

JUJUY S Buses from La Quiaca

The bus terminal is located on the corner of Avenida España and Belgrano. • A9 Atahualpa @ 422394 • A157 La Internacional @ 423377 • A164 La Veloz del Norte, @ 423282 • A301 Expreso Panamericano @ 422396 Local bus companies • Buses to Abra Pampa via Laguna Pozuelo leave from the municipal market; three weekly buses to Laguna Pozuelos $4.40 and Abra Pampa $6.60; Rinconadillas ($7.70; 4 hrs); 3 weekly • Empresa El Quiaqueño, Güemes near Yrigoyen @ 423008 ° Santa Catalina ($5.50; 21 2 hrs); 5 weekly ° Yaví ($1.10; 1 2 hour); daily except Sat and Sun Long-distance and provincial services • • • • • •

•

Destination Abra Pampa Córdoba Humahuaca Jujuy Salta Tilcara

Fare $6.60 $59.40 $11.75 $20.00 $22.00

Services 20 daily 1 daily 20 daily 20 daily 8 daily 30 daily

Duration Company 1 hour A301 2 A301 21 2 hrs A9, A157, A164, A301 7 hrs A9, A157, A164, A301 9 hrs A9, A157, A164, A301 6 hrs A9, A301

church is normally closed, but the caretaker will open it and show you around for a small tip. The church has been declared a national monument. Opposite the church is the colonial house of a Spanish nobleman, the Marqués Campero y Trejo who joined the Argentine Liberation movement. Near Yavi Chico are archeological sites and halfway between Yaví and the turn-off to Suri Pujlo, 14 km away, is a cave on the north side of the road. It is interesting to note that Yavi was in 1867 the epicenter of a native uprising which was quelled. Yavi has a very colorful Holy Week celebration with candle light processions at night. With La Quiaca becoming the rail road crossing into Bolivia, Yavi lost its former importance on the Spanish colonial road and the permanent population has twindled to around 300. Buses El Quiaqueño run a morning and an afternoon bus departing La Quiaca from Güemes 1034 Santa Catalina: 65 km west on RP 5. Picturesque altiplano village with cobble-stone streets and a colonial church. On August 15 the Fiesta de la Virgen de Canchillas is held. The dance of the sikuris forms part of the

•

835

celebrations where men are disguised as ostriches. At Casira a small village smack on the Bolivian border you may observe ancient techniques in pottery. To both locations take an El Quiaqueño bus from Güemes 1034 Santa Victoria This Indian village is located in the extreme north of the province Salta on the Río Santa Victoria near the Bolivian border. This is a rainforest area. It can only be reached from La Quiaca in Jujuy Province via Yaví on a gravel road. It was founded in 1803. Of interest is the Spanish colonial church. There are no hotels but the road is of particular scenic beauty, especially after passing the Sierra de Santa Victoria which forms the provincial border with Jujuy and whose peaks reach over 5000 m. Two colorful fiestas are held in the village which attract large crowds from the altiplano: Fiesta Santiago Apóstol (Festival of Saint James the Apostle) on July 25 and Fiesta Patronal Virgen de Santa Victoria: November 17. A 107 km track leads to the church; only for the intrepid

La Quiaca

LIBERTADOR GENERAL SAN MARTÍN

Libertador General San Martín Population: 42 000 Postal code: 4512 @ area code: (03886) Altitude: 463 m Distance from Jujuy: 106 km east

L

ibertador General San Martín is located in the ramal, the fertile subtropical low lands in the eastern part of the province. Its only claim to fame is the proximity of Parque Nacional Calilegua and possibly the Termas de Caimancito. Accommodation is suitable for budget travelers. In nearby Ledesma virtually a suburb of Libertador General San Martín, is the largest sugar mill in Argentina, processing 18 000 tonnes of sugar daily; also an offset paper production plant which makes as a by-product 25 000 000 liters of alcohol a year. The whole area is a citrus orchard, producing some of the best oranges in the country. This is also tropical fruit country, growing fruit such as cherimoyas, bananas, mangoes, and avocados. Included under this section is Parque Nacional Calilegua some 10 km north and the village of Caimancito some 16 km east with the thermal springs at Aguas Calientes.

Camping in Parque Nacional Calilegua • Camping Aguas Negras, 8 km north of town, Reservations 22046

E Eating out

•

S Buses

• • •

Oficina Municipal de Turismo, @ 423266/578

C Accommodation

Hotel Artaza, Victoria 891 AELPSV @ 423214 $H 2 * Hotel Sunset, Gorriti 294 AELPV $H 2 B Residencial Capri, Entre Ríos 400 L B Residencial Carioca, Victoria 173 L $H 2 B Residencial Gloria, Urquiza 270 L $H 2 *

D Camping •

Camping Municipal San Martín, RN 34, 3.5 km outside town @ 423266

Libertador General San Martín

Atahualpa, Entre Ríos 363 @ 421057/423377 Expreso Panamericano, local 4/5 @ 421638 La Internaciona, bus terminal @ 422020

a Excursions

•

B Tourist information •

Sociedad Española, Jujuy 452

836

Parque Nacional Calilegua is located on the eastern slopes of the Serranía Calilegua 135 km south-east of Jujuy. The entrance is 10 km north of Libertador General San Martín. This national park was created in 1974 to protect the unusual flora and fauna of the region. Indeed this park may be considered the southernmost part of the yungas: tropical or subtropical rainforest covering mountains traversed by rivers which have cut deep valleys into the mountains. It covers an area of 76 000 ha (187 800 acres), with a camping ground. There is a 23 km road from the park entrance to the village of Valle Grande at 1700 m; this road is usually cut during the summer monsoon rains. Valle Grande has about 450 inhabitants. There is an old Spanish mill here. For the intrepid hiker there is a mountain trail to Caspalá and Pampichuelo both villages already in the Puna. The detour to Pampichuelo is

JUJUY particularly interesting as the final approach to the village is on a stairway leading up the mountain which was part of the original Inca trail. The flora is subtropical in the lower part where the elevation is only 450 m. Alpine-type meadows grow up to 1800 m, and the highest peaks reach about 2500 m. The flora consists of palo boracho, cedars and tipa blanca a white hardwood tree. Fauna includes jaguars, pumas, corzuela or mountain deer, tapirs and two species of peccary and small monkeys; also yaguaretes, a type of small alligator in the swamps and rivers. One of the suggested hikes is from San Francisco to Alto Calilegua passing through the spectacular Río Jordan Canyon. It is also possible to climb the highest mountain in the national park, Cerro Amarillo, 3660 m. There is evidence that the area was inhabited 3500 years ago by agriculturists who also made pottery and ground their grain. You need at least three days to get to know this national park; if you intend to hike get in touch beforehand with the park supervisor, who can arrange for horses, as the trails are in very bad condition and can’t be used by vehicles. (For the supervisor’s contact address, see below.) The vegetation is tropical with walnuts, laurels, and lapachos rosados predominating, and many orchids. In some areas the forest is so dense that the sun cannot penetrate. The rivers are clear and have many dorados, surubí, and pejerrey, but fishing and hunting are not allowed although camping is. At present no guided tours are conducted. There are frequent buses

•

from San Salvador de Jujuy to Libertador General San Martín, but there are few cars going into the national park area. Hikers could take a cab to the park headquarters, but the best bet would be to make the trip with a tour operator. For further information contact Administración de Parques Nacionales, Intentencia Calilegua, San Lorenzo y Madrigal Calilegua, Dpto Ledesma CP 4514 @ (03886) 422046. The best time to visit is from March to November although even then you could get caught in a rainstorm. During this period there is also some public transport to the entrance. See also Excursions from Jujuy on page 831 and introduction on page 817 Caimancito. Caimancito is a small town of 4500 inhabitants. Located in the lush subtropical valley of the Río San Francisco at an altitude of 500 m 17 km north east of Libertador General San Martín. At Aguas Calientes 10 km further east are the so-called Termas de Caimancito still in their natural state. There are several springs, one of which at Laguna Hedionda as the name implies, is a bit smelly. It is possible to take a bath but otherwise there is no infrastructure. There are four thermal springs coming out at 41°C–50 °C (105°F–120°F); they have different chemical properties; there are no tourist facilities. At Laguna La Brea the first oil was commercially exploited in Argentina. Empresa Balut has four services daily taking 31 2 hrs

SUSQUES

Susques Population: 700 Postal code: 4641 @ area code: By operator Altitude: 3675 m Distance from Jujuy: 198 km north on RN 9, then west on RN 52 and RP 16

837

Susques

S

usques is situated in the heart of the altiplano, and is not easy for the average tourist to reach. Since the opening of the Paso de Jama pass road to Chile the road leading up to Susques has improved and is constantly upgraded. However 149 km are still rough altiplano roads.

The history of this part of Argentina is checkered to say the least. The inhabitants are the descendants of Aymará and thus have a common language with Indians in Bolivia. As a matter of fact until 1899 Susques was part of Bolivia. Until 1943 it formed part of the Territorio de los Andes which was divided amongst the provinces of Jujuy, Salta, and Catamarca, thus fragmenting a cultural unit. Although at a subsistence level, the town has electricity and running water and is connected to the outside world by a microwave transmitter. In pre-Hispanic times it was on the Inca road from Bolivia which went as far as the Río Maule in Chile. The people tend their flocks of llamas and alpacas just as their ancestors did, and are not very talkative. Occasionally the men work in the mines which abound in the area. For additional information see Excursions from Jujuy on page 830.

In an emergency the school director may help out too. Also the police are very helpful.

S Buses

Susques is served by Empresa Purmamarca from Jujuy via Purmamarca; 6 1 2 hours. They pass through on Wed and Sat and return to Jujuy on Thurs and Sun.

Q Border crossing

About 150 km west of Susques is the border crossing of Paso de Jama. The road there skirts the Salina Olaroz on the northern and western sides. This pass is kept open all year, even during heavy snowfalls. This is an altiplano trip. Argentine border formalities are in Susque, and the Chilean border formalities are in San Pedro de Atacama.

p Sightseeing

•

A Festivals •

Virgen de Belén (Virgin of Bethlehem): January 23. This is the major event of the year and starts with a colorful procession during which the Virgencita (or “Little Virgin”) is carried through the streets. A very lively fiesta ensues after the procession

s Excursions

The environment of Susques features many lagunas and salares, which are populated for part of the year by thousands of flamingos. • Reserva Camélidos Olaroz Cauchari. Located 37 km west of town near Lagunas del Angosto de Taire. Here a vicuña breeding center has opened to restock the Argentine puna regions with this fleet-footed animal. There is trout fishing in the lagunas

C Accommodation

There are no hotels, but accommodation in private homes is available—there are only six rooms available in the whole village. It is possible to contact Señora Luisa Vázquez, Calle San Luis 33, via police radio to arrange accommodation beforehand. She runs a small hospedaje, offering bed and all meals. Most accommodation is taken up by the road gang working permanently on the Paso de Jama road.

Susques

Chapel: Built by the inhabitants about 1590 under the instruction of a visiting priest from Bolivia. It has been declared a national monument. According to legend the image of the Virgen de Belén was found on the very spot where the chapel now stands. The tower stands apart from the church. The two bells were brought from Sucre in Bolivia (then called Chuquisaca)

838

JUJUY

TILCARA

Tilcara Population: 3000 Postal code: 4624 @ area code: (0388) Altitude: 2461 m Distance from Jujuy: 84 km north on RN 9

T

ilcara is located in the Quebrada de Humahuaca on the eastern bank of the Río Grande at its junction with the Río Huasamayo. There is only one bridge for vehicular traffic into town. The town was the center of heavy fighting during the Wars of Independence. The monolith at the town entrance, near the Y.P.F. service station, indicates the dates of all the major battles fought in and around Tilcara. The pre-Colombian population were called “Fiscaras”, and were deft farmers and fierce warriors. • Hostal Villar del Ala, Padilla 100 The climate is mild all year round AEHLRT @ 4955100 fax $D 2 with little rainfall. The average temperature is 15°C (59°F) in winter and D Camping 22°C (72°F) in summer, and nights • Camping El Jardín, RN 9, 2 km north are cool. The area has many interestof the town entrance @ 4955128 $J 1 ing walks within easy walking disE Eating out tance, interesting museums and • Restaurant Kanka Huasi, Lavalle, on archeological sites, and colorful fiesChica tas. It has good tourist facilities al- & • Plaza Restaurant El Pucará, Rivadavia near though these can get somewhat Lavalle strained during the main holiday I Post and telegraph season. • Post office: Correo Argentino, Tilcara is the major archeologiRivadavia, on Plaza Alvarez Prado cal site in Jujuy Province. • Telephone: Telecom, Belgrano, next

A Festivals

to the Hotel de Turismo

•

Enero Tilcareño (Tilcara January): January Festivals in Maimará • Festival del Choclo y del Folklore (Maize and Folk Festival): March

S Buses

Expreso Panamericano, Balut, La Veloz del Norte, El Quiaqueño, Atahualpa run between 22 and 30 daily services to the destinations below. • Abra Pampa (31 2 hrs) • Humahuaca ($3.00; 1 hr) • Jujuy ($5.00; 2 hrs) • La Quiaca (41 2 hrs) • Purmamarca ($2.20)

C Accommodation **

A B B B B

Hotel de Turismo Tilcara, Belgrano 590 AEFGJLPUV @ 4955002 $G 2 Residencial El Antigal, Rivadavia near Jujuy ELP @ 4955020 $H 2 Residencial Esperanza, Belgrano 335 @ 4955106 $H 2 Residencial El Turco, Rivadavia L Residencial Frami, Lavalle 540 L @ 4955020 Albergue Pucará, Padilla L @ 4955050

U Motoring

•

Service station: Y.P.F., on RN 9 just before the bridge crossing into town

p Sightseeing

•

839

Museo Arqueológico Regional Dr. Eduardo Casanova (Dr. Eduardo Tilcara

Río

Gr an de

To La Quiaca

TILCARA

Key to map A C D E T

N SAN MARTÍN

To S. S. de Jujuy

3 Accommodation 4 Eating out

LAVALLE E

D

C

PUKARA

BELGRANO

SORPRESA

A

T

8 Sights

CASANOVA

To Garganta del Diablo

AMBROSETTI

ALVERRO

RIVADAVIA

BOLÍVAR

PADILLA

DEBENEDETTI

JUJUY MORENO

Río Huasamayo

To archeological site

•

•

•

Casanova Regional Archeological Museum), Belgrano 445, opposite Plaza Alvarez Prado. This museum, run by the Universidad de Buenos Aires, abounds with implements and items found in the pucará Museo Escultorico Soto Avendaño (Soto Avendaño Sculpture Museum), Belgrano, opposite Plaza Alvarez Prado, next to the Museo Arqueológico. On exhibit are mainly sculptures of the artist. Soto Avendaño was the sculptor of the Independence Monument in Humahuaca Museo Regional José Antonio Terry (José Antonio Terry Regional Museum), Rivadavia 459, opposite Plaza Alvarez Prado. Paintings of the artist in four rooms Museo del Folklore, Lavalle 465 near Bolívar

•

s Excursions •

Pucará de Tilcara: This is not an Inca fortress as claimed by many, but a fortified city built by the original Tilcara tribe who lived here before the arrival of the Incas. The fortress is built on top of a hill to the south of the town

Tilcara

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Bus terminal

•

840

and covers almost 15 ha (37 acres). Excavation of the archeological site was begun by the eminent historian Dr Juan P Ambrosetti and continued by his student Dr Salvador Benedetti. From the center of town it is a comfortable 20-minute walk following Calle E Padilla up from Belgrano then crossing a bridge over the Río Huasamayo. Shortly after the bridge you can take a trail up a small mountain from the top of which you have splendid views over the valley and the adjoining countryside. Before the entrance to the archeological complex there is a botanical garden which is also worth a visit. In the back of the garden is a “musical” rock. Small admission charge Maimará is 6 km south at an altitude of 2380 m. Maimará is a Quechua word meaning “Field of Stars”, most likely pointing to a meteorite fall in historical times. There is an old altiplano church and a small museum.The town has 1700 inhabitants and has well preserved its colonial character. The mountain behind town is known as La Paleta del Pintor because in it the colors are like from a painter’s palette. A colorful altiplano fiesta in honor of Santa Ana is held on the 26th July. Buses run regularly to Jujuy. Try chicha — a drink made from fermented maize. From Maimará onwards pukarás become more common Garganta del Diablo (“Devil’s Throat“): 7 km east of Tilcara in the upper reaches of the Río Huasamayo, which here forms a very narrow gorge with many waterfalls

JUJUY

Stopovers

I

STOPOVERS

n this section I have listed those towns which are not on the normal tourist trail but have some facilities. Purmamarca Nearest town described: Tilcara 19 km north RN 52 and RN 9 (page 839). Altitude: 2350 m.

Dique Los Alisos Nearest town described: Jujuy 25 km north on RP 2 (page 822) • Albergue Complejo Deportivo Eva Perón, RP 2 KM 25 @ 4223887 $J 2

Residenciales B Aramayo, Florida L @ 4955120 $I 1 B Bebo Vilte L @ 4230798 $H 2 B Zulma L @ 4955120 $I 2

Carmen Nearest town described: Jujuy 27 km north on RN 9 (page 822). Altitude 1268 m, 9000 inhabitants • Hotel de Turismo, San Martín near Belgrano @ 4933101 $H 2 Perico Nearest town described: Jujuy 33 km north-east on RN 66 (page 822). Altitude 936 m • Residencial 9 de Julio, Alberdi 456 @ 4911366 $H 2 Posta de Lozano Nearest town described: Jujuy 19 km south-east on RN 9 (page 822) ** Hotel Posta Lozano, RN 9 KM 19 AELPSV @ 4980050 $G 2 • Complejo Las Vertientes RN 9 KM 20 @ 4980030

San Pedro de Jujuy Nearest town described: Jujuy 63 km west on RN 34 (page 822). Altitude 578 m Hotels ** Alex II, R. Leach 467 AEFGJLPUV @ 420526 $H 2 * Alex I, Gob. Tello 436 AELPV @ 420299 $H 2 * Nasa, Alsina 54 AELPV @ 422577 $H 2 * Velez Sarsfield, V. Sarsfield 154 AELPV @ 420446 $H 2 • El Nido, Alberro 648 @ 420663

841

Stopovers

CHACO

PROVINCES

Argentina's center north is part of the Gran Chaco region, which stretches from eastern Bolivia through Paraguay into Argentina. It is a transitional zone between the Amazonian jungle and the pampas. Rain is restricted to the monsoon season; the region is dry for the rest of the year. The flora has adopted to this seasonal rain pattern, and the area is covered with drought-resistant vegetation. The hardwood quebracho (“ax-breaker”) tree in its many variations is the most abundant tree cover; the undergrowth is a thicket of thorny bushes which can be almost impenetrable. Nevertheless the wildlife has survived in this sheltered area, and probably the region’s major biggest attraction. 843

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO SANTIAGO C Santiago HACO Pdel ROVINCES DEL Estero ESTERO

Plate 21 846 848 848 849 850 852 853 858 859 865 866

Map of Santiago del Estero Province Map of bus destinations Añatuya ACSUW Frías ACS Quimilí CSs Santiago del Estero ABCDEnJKLRSTUVWXYaipq Map of city center Map rs Termas de Río Hondo ABCDEnJKLMRSUWXYaefgi Map su Villa Ojo de Agua CSUWrstu Stopovers C

antiago del Estero is the oldest province in Argentina. It is part of the southern chaco, and has very few mountain ranges of any significance. Near the western border with Catamarca is the Sierra de Guasayán, and the Sierra de Sumampa is in the extreme south near Ojo de Agua. The area covered is 136 350 square kilometers (52 640 square miles) with a population of 680 000.

S

Land-locked Santiago del Estero shares borders with Salta in the north-west, Chaco in the north-east, Santa Fe in the south-east, Córdoba in the south, and Catamarca and Tucumán in the west. The provincial capital is Santiago del Estero (often just called “Santiago”), with about 180 000 inhabitants. It is 1194 km distant from the federal capital Buenos Aires.

The main rivers are the Río Dulce, originating at the Río Hondo weir, and the Río Salado, coming from Salta Province. Both rivers flow through extensive marshes. The Río Dulce flows through several bañados or swamps, and eventually finishes up in Mar Chiquita in/ Córdoba Province. Most of the rivers are forced into irrigation channels to enhance agricultural production. The province has also some very large

844

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO e salinas, the largest being Salinas de Ambargasta, near the border with and extending into Córdoba Province. Santiago del Estero Province has Argentina’s biggest single thermal spa in Termas de Río Hondo and this, next to the provincial capital, is the province’s main tourist attraction. The road network is extensive but bear in mind that off the main highways this is still pioneering country and the roads are accordingly underdeveloped. The major roads like RN 9 going to Córdoba and RN 64 going through the Sierra de Guasayán to Catamarca and RN 34 to Santa Fe, are in reasonable condition. RN 9 to Córdoba is the major highway south. The roads, which pass mostly through level country, run in a straight line over long distances. The landscape is unchanging chaco country. The most remarkable tree in this area is the quebracho (“axe-breaker”), so called because of its hard timber. Santiago del Estero is Argentina’s hottest province. The climatic conditions of Santiago del Estero are much the same over the whole province. The hottest months are December to February, and during this time the average temperature climbs to 36°C (97°F); the summer months also experience some rainy periods. During these months the sun burns down on a salt bush steppe, where temperatures up to 50°C (140°F) are not uncommon. The winters are mild, averaging 6°C(45°F); the winter months are also the driest ones. The subtropical climate of the north-eastern part of the province gives rise to dense forest cover, which is exploited commercially.

The most sought-after timber is the quebracho. In the north-west huge underground natural water reservoirs are being tapped. Some of the wells yield 100 000 liters an hour. Some gypsum mining is carried out in the Sierra de Guasayán, and salt is mined from the salinas or salt pans. The economy of the province chiefly depends on two activities: agriculture and tourism. Because of the lack of water, many of the inhabitants are forced to seek employment in other better-endowed provinces, such as cotton harvesting in Chaco Province and sugar cane harvesting in Tucumán. The largest river and life-line of the province is the Río Dulce. Despite its name (“sweet”) it has a slightly salty taste which the locals are partial to. This river runs 320 km south-east of Santiago del Estero into the shallow Mar Chiquita on the southern edge of the chaco completely in Córdoba Province. This 80 by 25 km lake is naturally salty (“mar” means “sea”) and the water is warm. No river drains it, but during the flood season two other rivers flow into it from the Sierras de Córdoba. The most important engineering feat in the province was the erection of the 27 metre high dam at Embalse Río Hondo, which enabled the irrigation of extensive areas.

History Santiago del Estero was the transit road for chaco peoples and ideas moving to and from the high sierras. The first inhabitants left their mark some 12 000 years ago. They were food-gatherers who lived in the hilly areas of Sumampa and Ambargasta. Some 8000 years ago 845

Santiago del Estero

CHACO PROVINCES PROVINCE FORMOSA

Taco Pozo A278,A323,

Monte Quemado A278,A323,

PROVINCE SALTA Nueva Esperanza A320 A328

Pampa de los Guanacos

PROVINCE TUCUMÁN

PROVINCE CHACO

N

San Miguel de Tucumán

Campo Gallo

Tintina A323 Pozo Hondo

Otumpa Termas de Río Hondo A9 A33 A37 A67 A72 A85 A155 A164 A297 A330 Santiago del Estero Fernández A72 A131 A318 A322

San Pedro A324

Quimilí A72, A155 A319, A330

La Cañada A55

La Banda Guasayán

Suncho Corral A72 A131 A327

Pozo del Toba A72

Santa Catalina A324 Villa San Martín A72 Añatuya Villa Atamisqui VillaLa Punta A321 A324

A318 A329 A23 A163 A318, A319 A327

Frías A278 A297 A321 A324

Los Telares

PROVINCE CATAMARCA

A9

Atahualpa

A16

Bosio

A23 A33 A37

Cacorba T.A . Chevallier Expreso Panamericano

A55 A330 A57 A67 A71 A72 A73 A85 A94 A103 A131 A155

El Trébol El Cóndor El Galgo El Ranchilleño Tata/Central El Rápido El Rayo El Santiagueño Balut Hnos Gutiérrez Empresa Martín Santa Rita La Estrella S.R.L .

Santiago del Estero

Pinto A163

A163 A164 A274 A278 A297 A318 A319 A320 A321 A322 A323 A324 A325 A326

La Unión La Veloz del Norte La Nueva Estrella San Cristóbal Empresa Salles El Sol Viento Norte Nueva Esperanza El Chingolo Central El Rápido Man-So El Puntano El Aguila Veliz

A327 La Confianza A328 Santa Ana A329 Robert

Sumampa A329 Ojo de Agua A9 A23 A33 A37 A85 A164 A329

Villa de María A9 A23 A33 A37 A85 A164 A329

To Córdoba

Tostado A319

Selva A163

Ceres

PROVINCE CÓRDOBA PROVINCE SANTA FE

BUS SERVICES IN PROVINCE SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO

846

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO traces of a hunting people appear, mostly in the Sierra de Guasayán. This was apparently a very rich zone for gathering food and for hunting, although their life-style was still very basic. About 4000 to 5000 years ago the indigenous people supplemented their meat dishes with ground grains, as evidenced by the discovery of many flat grinding stones. Around 1000 B.C. the agricultural period started, but the population did not create permanent settlements. Some animals were domesticated during this period. At around 500 AD the so-called early pottery period started, indicating that the population now had fixed dwelling places and were already farmers or “cultivators”. Agriculture was the main food source, supplemented by hunting and fishing. The earliest known culture is known as the Mercedes culture, thought to have originated in Catamarca. Most archeological sites of this culture are in the Río Dulce valley and the Sierra de Guasayán. From about 900 AD onwards we find the intermediate pottery period, represented by the Sunchituyoj culture. In this period the pottery became more elaborate. Around 1100 AD the late pottery period commenced. This was still the predominant culture when the Spaniards arrived. Most artistic was the Averías culture, which is thought to show the influence of the Andean Diaguitas. The first Spanish arrival in the province was in 1543 under Capitán General Diego de Rojas, who was killed by a poisoned arrow in western Santiago del Estero, near the Tucumán border. In 1550 he was

followed by Capitán General Juan Nuñez del Prado, who founded several small villages. In 1553 Capitán General Francisco de Aguirre founded the city of Santiago del Estero. At this time the indigenous inhabitants still preserved their own culture, but accepted new ideas from the Europeans. Their culture centered around Matara on the central Río Salado. The main bearers of Spanish influence were the Jesuits, who founded the first Indian reducción (reservation) in Santiago del Estero. The Jesuit influence remained strong until their expulsion in 1767. During the colonial period the Río Salado was the last frontier against the warring chaco peoples. To protect the Spanish colony a series of forts were erected along the so-called Salado fortification line.

Tourist attractions Santiago del Estero has many thermal springs such as those at Termas de Río Hondo and La Punta. The most fashionable is certainly Termas de Río Hondo, which boasts international-standard hotels to which Argentines and many tourists from other countries flock. The city of Termas de Río Hondo has an inexhaustible flow of hot springs, which has made it the foremost winter tourist centre in the north-west. The whole province is rich in folklore, expressed in colorful carnival celebrations and fiestas which are deeply rooted in pre-Columbian myths. The best time to visit this province is from May to October.

847

Santiago del Estero

CHACO PROVINCES & Sumampa (“Sumampa Viejo”),

Very interesting & City of Santiago del Estero with its historical and cultural heritage & Termas de Río Hondo, a thermal spa with water sports

which has indigenous rock paintings, a religious festival, and an unspoilt back country A feeble attempt has been made to create a Reserva Forestal in the north-eastern corner of the province bordering with Chaco Province to protect the flora and fauna. It is difficult to reach.

Interesting & San Pedro (in Guasayán departamento, near the Tucumán border), thermal springs & Ojo de Agua, where there are indigenous rock paintings

AÑATUYA

Añatuya Population: 16 000 Postal code: 3760 @ area code: (03844) Altitude: 107 m Distance from Santiago del Estero: 200 km south-east on RN 34

A

ñatuya is located at the junction of RP 21 and RP 6. The area around the town—known as Bañados de Añatuya—is marshy. These marshes are the source of the Río Salado.

A Festivals •

S Buses

•

Festival de la Chacarera: Date proclaimed each year

C Accommodation

A Residencial Casablanca, 25 de Mayo LP A Residencial Santa Rita, Avenida España 74 LP @ 421419 B Hospedaje Los Gringos L @ 421627

Cooperativa de Transportes La Unión, Ave. Las Heras 600 @ 421817; 1–2 daily to and from Santiago del Estero

U Motoring

•

FRÍAS

Y.P.F. service station RN 34 KM 566 Colonia Doria

Frías Population: 23 000 Postal code: 4230 @ area code: (03854) Altitude: 330 m Distance from Santiago del Estero: 143 km south on RN 24 then RP 64

Añatuya

848

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO C Accommodation in Frías Hotels * * *

Biarritz, Avenida San Martín 70 Petit, Mitre near Alvear San Jorge, Rivadavia 800

Residenciales A B B • •

F

Dani, Belgrano 50 Centro, Corrientes 85 El Viajante, Jujuy 119 Rivadavia, Rivadavia 258 Sandrita, San Martín 123

421429 421229 421239

@

421252

@ @

421253 421367

rías is located at the intersection of RN 157 and RP 24 in the extreme west of the province, right on the border with Catamarca Province.

A Festivals •

@ @ @

Services • Santiago del Estero (2 hrs); daily services; Empresa Salles, La Estrella • Catamarca (4 1 2 hrs); 1–2 daily; Empresa Salles • La Rioja (5 1 2 hrs); 1–2 daily; La Estrella, Salles, El Chingolo, and San Cristóbal • Termas de Río Hondo (3 hrs); daily services; La Estrella

Fiesta Nacional del Bombo: November

S Buses Bus ccompanies • El Huayra, San Luis 42 @ 422852 • Empresa El Puntano, Mitre @ 421904 • Empresa Salles Mitre 85 @ 422264

QUIMILÍ

Quimilí Population: 22 000 Postal code: 3740 @ area code: (03843) Altitude: 134 m Distance from Santiago del Estero: 203 km east on RN 34 then RN 89

Q

uimilí is located in chaco country at the intersection of RN 89, RP 6, and RP 116 in the eastern part of the province.

C Accommodation *

• • • •

Hotel Parodi, 25 de Mayo 184 AELPV Hospedaje Almendra, 25 de Mayo Hospedaje Cadenas, 25 de Mayo 108 Hospedaje La Arboleda, Bulevar Roca Sur Hospedaje Rivadavia, Avenida Rivadavia 465

•

s Excursions

TATA Central/El Rápido has an interesting bus route through some little-visited and hard to get to areas in the eastern and northern part of the province. The bus coming up from Santa Fe Province through Añatuya can be joined in

S Bus •

Taco Pozo in Chaco Province (63 4hrs) and Quimilí (13 4hrs) La Estrella, El Rayo, and Viento Norte run two bus services daily to Santiago del Estero

El Rápido/TATA runs a daily bus at 08:32 to Monte Quemado (6 hrs) and

849

Quimilí

CHACO PROVINCES to Resistencia. Break the journey in Monte Quemado where bus drivers have a meal break as there is a good cafetería in the bus terminal. This trip is mostly along straight, dusty country roads and only for the adventurous who wants to do something different. Breakdowns and delays are frequent and trips do not always follow the set timetables.

Quimilí. The bus continues on RP 6 north-west to Sachayo near the border with Chaco Province and continues straight north along the border to Pampa de Guanacos, the junction with RN 16 linking Resistencia with Salta Province. The bus continues on RN 16 north-west to Monte Quemado and on to Taco Pozo in Chaco Province. At Monte Quemado or Taco Pozo you have the choice of boarding an express bus either to Salta or

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO

Santiago del Estero Population: 202 000 Postal code: 4200 @ area code: (0385) Altitude: 190 m Distances From Buenos Aires: 1164 km north-west on RN 9 • From San Miguel de Tucumán 159 km south-east on RN 9 •

S

antiago del Estero was founded in 1553 by Capitán Don Francisco de Aguirre, coming south from Peru with settlers. population of approximately 105 000. It is separated from the city of Santiago del Estero by the Río Dulce. Its only importance is as a rail head for trains to and from Buenos Aires, Tucumán. Municipal buses 10, 18, and 21 take 20 minutes for the trip between the two cities; bus services run at intervals of 20 minutes.

Santiago del Estero is in the southern chaco, on the banks of the Río Dulce which separates it from its twin city of La Banda. Both cities are linked by two modern bridges. Most of the sparse rainfall occurs in January. The driest and coldest months are June, July, and August, which average 6°C (40°F). December, January, and February are the hottest months, reaching 36°C (88°F). Some streets are marked “Norte” or “N” (North), “Este” or “E” (East), “Sur” or “S” (South), or “Oeste” or “O” (West), in relation to the Plaza. The hub of the town is Plaza Libertad, flanked by the Municipalidad and the cathedral.

A Festivals

•

• •

La Banda La Banda is a city in its own right about 7 km north-east with a

Santiago del Estero

850

Carnaval de las Trincheras: A very colorful carnival celebration reminiscent of the carnival in Humahuaca in Jujuy Día de la Autonomía (Independence Day), celebrated throughout the province: April 27 Fiesta Santiago Apóstol (Festival of Saint James the Apostle), the city’s foundation day, marking the start of Semana Santiago del Estero (Santiago del Estero Week): July 24. Lots of folk music

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO C Accommodation in Santiago del Estero Hotels **** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** *

Grand Hotel, Avellaneda 203 near Independencia @ ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Bristol, Avenida Moreno (S) 667 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Centro, 9 de Julio 131 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Libertador, Catamarca 47 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Palace II, Buenos Aires 60 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Coventry, H Irigoyen near Chacabuco AEFGJLPUV @ Palace Hotel, Tucumán 19 AEFGJLPUV Fax 4211234 @ Savoy, Avenida Tucumán 39 AEFGJLPUV Fax 4211235 @ Florida, Libertad 355 AELPV @

Residenciales A A A B B

Petit Colonial, La Plata 65 Rodas, Pedro Leon Gallo 422 Iovino, Avenida Moreno (S) 602 Alaska, Santa Fe 269 Santa Rita, Santa Fe 273

Accommodation in La Banda Hotels ** *

Presidente, España 510 Trento, B. Mitre near Besares

Residenciales A A A A

Avellaneda, Avellaneda 73 More, Iriarte 336 Nueva Unión, Belgrano 76 LP San Rafael, Belgrano 86 Opposite the rail station

4218387 4214098 4215766 4214949 4213477

$G $E $E $G $F

2 2 2 2 2

4212700

$F

2

4211234 4218664

$F $G

2 2

$H $G

2 2

4211261 4218484 4213311

AEFGJLPUV AEFLPV

@ @

4271756 4271642

LP LP

@

4272175

@

4271188

LP

E Eating out Restaurants • Centro del Viajante, Buenos Aires 37 • Don Andrés, Catamarca 47. International cuisine • El Vasco, Avenida Belgrano 743. Spanish cuisine • Fausto, Independencia 319. Parrilla • Halley, Pedro León Gallo 111 near Entre Rios • Jockey Club, Independencia 88 near Libertad • La Española, Chacabuco 373 • Mía Mamma, 24 de Septiembre 16. Italian cuisine • Sociedad Española, Independencia 236. Spanish cuisine

Dirección Provincial de Turismo, Libertad 417 on the Plaza Libertad @ 4214243 fax 4213253. Open 08:00–20:00 daily Dirección de Fauna, Caza y Pesca, Independencia 475 @ 4218391 fax 4222438

D Camping •

2

@ @ @

B Tourist information

•

$F

LP LP LP L L

Festivals in La Banda • Festival Folklórico (Folk Festival): Middle of September •

4224383 fax

Las Casuarinas, Avenida Costanera on the Río Dulce 8 blocks from the city center in Parque Aguirre. Prime location. Run by the town council

Pizzerías • Antigua Boca, Pellegrini 234 • La Merced, Belgrano (S) near 9 de Julio 851

Santiago del Estero

CHACO PROVINCES SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO CENTRO

• •

11

10

•

D

9 8

LA

OS A

IN D E P E N

N

21

22 D E N C IA

27

31 32

28 30

N

A . R O JA

• • •

29

I

38

S

AVE . LIB ERT AD

PELL EGR INI

Plaza L ibertad

26

24

23

9 DE JU LI O

TU C U M Á

19

18

20

UR QU IZ A

17 14 15 16

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AV EL LA NE DA

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$

•

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36 37

S ANO LGR . BE 41 E V A

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•

42

& •

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La Tarantella, Moreno (S) near Sarmiento • Si-Si, Avenida H Yrigoyen 499 near Alvear Cafeterías ,confiterías, and bars • Arcanos, 9 de Julio 224

Key to maps A B

C D E I P $ T

Catedral Basilica Menor Gobernación Provincial (Government) Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Dirección Provincial de Turismo A.C.A. Banco de la Nación Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 8 15 16 17 18 22 28 39 45 47 48 49 50

Camping Las Casuarinas Residencial Petit Colonial Hotel Savoy Hotel Palace Hotel Hotel Florida Hotel Palace II Hotel Grand Hotel Hotel Centro Hotel Libertador Residencial Iovino Hotel Bristol Residencial Alaska Residencial Santa Rita Residencial Rodas

4 Eating out 9

Restaurant Centro del Viajante 13 Pizzería Si-Si

Santiago del Estero

14 21 23 24 26 27 32 34 35 36 37 41 42 43 44

Bonauto, Avenida Belgrano (S) 635 Cháchara, Sarmiento 33 near Belgrano (S) El Galeón, Parque Aguirre. Entertainment El Viejo Bar, Juárez Celman 107 H P, Belgrano (S) 456 near Urquiza. Open 24 hours La Cafetera, Libertad 413 near Avenida Tucumán La Casa del Folklore, Parque Aguirre. Peña La Esquina, Avenida Tucumán block 300 near Salta Popeye, Avellaneda 257 near Buenos Aires. Beer garden Scorpio, Avenida Alsina 459 near Belgrano Siglo XX, Avellaneda 139 near Independencia

n Entertainment

•

Teatro 25 de Mayo, Avellaneda 387

Pizzería Antigua Boca Cafetería Popeye Cafetería Arcanos Restaurant Fausto Cafetería La Cafetera Cafetería Siglo XX Restaurant Sociedad Española Cafetería Scorpio Cafetería El Viejo Bar Restaurant Mía Mamma Cafetería H P Cafetería Cháchara Cafetería Bonauto Restaurant El Vasco Restaurant Halley

5 Entertainment 3

4

Cafetería La Casa del Folklore Cafetería El Galeón

6 Airline offices

19 Austral Líneas Aéreas

5 10 11 12 20 31 33 38

0 Services 6 7

25 29 30

7 Tour operators and car 40 46 rental 52 Santiago Tours

9 Sights 2

Small zoo

852

Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco Museo Arqueológico Duncan Wagner Museo Histórico de la Provincia Iglesia y Convento de Santo Domingo Casa de Los Taboada Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes Gómez Cornet Museo Andrés Chazarreta Iglesia La Merced

51

Buses La Confianza Defunct Estación Ferrocarril Mitre Dirección de Fauna, Caza y Pesca Cambio Noroeste Banco de Credito Argentino Man-So buses Disused Estación Ferrocarril Belgrano Santa Ana and El Cóndor buses

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO To La Banda

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO

Río Dulce

N

Parque Aguirre

GAS

1

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2

3

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5

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NA

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AV E. RI VA

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MORENO 47 46 SA NT A FE

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208

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48 49

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SA AVE DR A Plaza Absalón Rojas

9 PR IN GL ES

T

51

To Termas de Río Hondo and Tucumán

•

I Post and telegraph •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Buenos Aires 350 Telephones • Telecom, Mendoza near Independencia

Telecom, San Martín 601

L Financial

• •

853

Banco de Credito Argentino, 24 de Setiembre 256. ATM Cambio Noroeste, 24 de Setiembre 220 @ 4219801. Cash only Santiago del Estero

CHACO PROVINCES S Buses from Santiago del Estero

The bus terminal is located in Pedro El Gallo 514 near Saavedra; it has a post office and a cloakroom. Local buses to La Banda for trains to Buenos Aires leave from platform 49. Some bus company serving the outback have their own bus terminals and not always pick up passengers at the terminal. Travelers wishing to make trips into the outback are advised to check with the respective bus company; breakdowns and delays on such trips are possible. Bus companies • A9 Atahualpa @ 4213484; also services to Termas de Río Hondo and Ojo de Agua • A16 Bosio • A23 Cacorba, @ 4213454; also services to Ojo de Agua, Añatuya • A28 Central Argentino • A33 T.A. Chevallier, @ 4215880; also services to Termas de Río Hondo and Ojo de Agua • A37 Expreso Panamericano @ 4215329; also services to Termas de Río Hondo and Ojo de Agua • A47 COTAL • A55 El Cóndor @ 4218994 • A57 El Galgo • A67 El Ranchilleño, @ 4219108; services to Termas de Río Hondo • A71 TATA @ 4218251 • A72 El Rayo @ 4213004; services to Termas de Río Hondo, Fernández, Suncho Corral, Quimilí, Pozo del Toba near borders with Santa Fe and Chaco Provinces. Campo del Cielo is 25 km north where the remains of a meteorite were found. See Excursions from Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña on page 875 • A73 El Santiagueño @ 4220636 • A77 El Tucumano • A85 Balut Hnos; also services to Termas de Río Hondo, Ojo de Agua • A92 General Urquiza, local 1 @ 4219108 ° Rosario (9 hrs) via Fernández, Ceres and Rafaela; 1 daily • A94 Gutiérrez • A103 Empresa Martín • A131 Santa Rita, services to Fernández and Suncho Corral • A155 La Estrella S.R.L. @ 4213484; services to Termas de Río Hondo, Quimilí • A157 La Internacional @ 4225864 • A163 La Unión; daily services to Añatuya • A164 La Veloz del Norte @ 4223581; services to Termas de Río Hondo and Ojo de Agua • A211 T.A.C. • A274 La Nueva Estrella • A278 San Cristóbal @ 4213484; services to Silipica south of town and one service daily to Frías; also to Monte Quemado • A287 Salles; services to Termas de Río Hondo • A318 El Sol, @ 4213004; services to Fernández, Villa Atamisqui and Añatuya • A319 Viento Norte services to Quimilí, Añatuya, Fortín Inca, Nena, and Tostado (Province Santa Fe) with connections to Santa Fe • A320 Nueva Esperanza; services to Nueva Esperanza north-west of Santiago del Estero • A321 El Chingolo, services to Frías and Sierras de Guayasán.

Santiago del Estero

854

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO Bus services from Santiago del Estero — continued • A322 Central El Rápido, @ 4218251; services to Fernández • A330 El Trébol, to Quimilí and Termas de Río Hondo Bus companies with their own terminals This section has been included for the benefit of the intrepid budget traveler. Most of the buses listed below go into chaco areas seldom traveled by tourists. • A55 El Cóndor, Rioja 563 @ 421870; services to La Cañada west of town • A163 La Unión, Avenida Roca near Rivadavia @ 4211631; services to Selva in the south-eastern corner of the province • A323 Man-So, Avenida Belgrano (S) 158 @ 4212568; services to Monte Quemado in the extreme north; the services go via Amamá and Tinitina. This is for intrepid travelers who want to visit areas away from the normal tourist trail. At Monte Quemado it is possible to link up with the express bus services plying between Salta and Resistencia. • A324 El Puntano, Avenida Colón (N) 416, @ 4215342 ° Frías via Lavalle ° San Pedro de Guayasán; Tues, Thurs, Fri, and Sat • A325 El Aguila, Rivadavia 3er Pasaje 541; services to Dique Figueroa ° Dique Figueroa • A326 Veliz, Villa Constantine 3er Pasaje 139 @ 4214036; services to Chaupi Pozo and El Charqui • A327 La Confianza, Urquiza 525 @ 4214228; services to Suncho Corral and Añatuya in the south east. • A328 Santa Ana, Rioja 563; services to Nueva Esperanza in the north-west • A329 Robert, Calle 16 Barrio Borges; 2–4 services daily to Sumampa ($8.00), Villa Atamisqui, andVilla Ojo de Agua Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Buenos Aires

Fare $45.00

Services 11 daily

Catamarca $14.00 Córdoba $19.00 10 daily Corrientes $27.00 5 daily La Rioja $16.00 3 daily Mendoza $36.00 3 daily Paraná $32.00 1 daily Pocitos Posadas 2 daily Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña $16.70 1 daily Puerto Iguazú 3 weekly Resistencia $25.00 3 daily Rosario $25.00 11 daily

Duration Company 14 A23, A28, A33, A71, A72, A73, A94, A163, A164, A211, A330 5 hrs A16, A47 6 hrs A9, A23, A33, A37, A73, A164 9 hrs A47, A72, A103 8 hrs A16, A47 17 1 2 hrs A16, A47, A211 A330 A164 18 1 2 hrs A47, A103 9 hrs 11 1 2 hrs

A72 A47 A72, A103 A33, A71, A72, A73, A92,A163, A164 A9, A37, A85, A164 A16, A47, A211 A330 A9, A33, A37, A85, A164

Salta $25.00 San Juan $32.00 Santa Fe $30.00 Jujuy $28.00 Termas de Río Hondo $3.00

6 daily 2–3 daily 1 daily 5 daily

6 hrs 15 hrs

18 daily

Tucumán

24 daily

1 hour A9, A33, A37, A85, A67, A72, A94, A163, A164, A274, A297, A330 2 hrs A9, A23, A28, A33, A37, A57, A67, A77, A85, A163, A164, A274, A330

$5.00

7 hrs

855

Santiago del Estero

CHACO PROVINCES R Air services

Aeropuerto Malpaso is located 7 km south of town. Municipal bus 19 takes 20 minutes. • Austral Líneas Aéreas, Buenos Aires 60 @ 4224333 ° Buenos Aires (Aeroparque Jorge Newbery) (11 2 hrs): 1 daily • Dinar, ° Tucumán ($90); 1 daily

U Motoring Service stations • A.C.A., Avenida Belgrano (S) near Sáenz Peña Car rental • A1 Rent a Car, Ave. Pedro Gallo 1326 @ 4241728 • Dante Rozze, Avenida Belgrano (S) 1987 @ 4212255

T Trains

•

Both the F C General M Belgrano and the F C General B Mitre stations in Santiago del Estero have been closed for passenger services. Trains from La Banda All trains to and from Buenos Aires arrive and depart from Mitre station in La Banda, located just across the Río Sali. The railroad station is at Besares block 300, at the intersection with Sáenz Peña. Trains to Buenos Aires take 14 hrs. • TUFESA Tucumán Ferrocarriles SA La Banda @ 46787772

•

Y Shopping

•

a Sport

•

•

•

•

Centro de Artesanías Santiagueñas (Santiago Craft Center), Avenida Roca block 800 near Urquiza

Golf: Santiago del Estero Golf Club, Avenida Nuñez del Prado @ 4221304. 18 holes Horse racing: Club Hípico, Avenida Costanera

p Sightseeing Museums • Museo Arqueológico Duncan Wagner (Duncan Wagner Archeological Museum), Avellaneda 355, has many objects, mostly pottery, from the

Santiago del Estero

Santiagueña pre-Columbian cultures such as the Mercedes culture, which flourished between 400 and 700 AD. This culture lived on rivers and lagunas and buried their dead in urns or directly in the soil. Their remains include flint and bone implements used for agriculture and fishing. The Medio period is represented by the Sunchituyoj culture, which flourished between 800 and 1100 AD, and whose members engaged in agriculture and fishing, and domesticated animals. The Tardio period is represented by the Averías culture, which flourished between 1100 and 1500 AD, and whose members buried their dead in urns. Rock paintings near Ojo de Agua, Las Mangas, Pozo Grande, El Cajón, Barrealito, and La Pitada are reproduced in displays. Open Mon–Fri 07:00–13:00 and 17:00–19:30, Sat 0:930–12:00 Museo Histórico de la Provincia (Museum of Provincial History), Urquiza 354, located in the former mansion of the Díaz Gallo family. A window into the past, it displays meticulously arranged furniture in its rooms. This museum is a jewel of Spanish colonial art. Open Mon–Fri from 08:00–12:00 and 15:30–18:30, Sat 08:00–12:00 Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes Gómez Cornet (Gómez Cornet Provincial Fine Arts Museum), Independencia 222. Soldi, Policastro, and Spilimbergo are just a few of the artists on display Museo Andrés Chazarreta (Andrés Chazarreta Museum), Mitre 127 near 24 de Setiembre. Located in the house of the former researcher into Argentine folklore Casa de Los Taboada, Buenos Aires 136. A colonial mansion built in 1840 by General Antonio Taboada and his family. The spacious house all furnished in the style of a patrician home gives an insight into how the wealthy families lived in the middle of the 19th century. Unfortunately not open to the public at the moment

Churches • Iglesia La Merced (Church of Mercy), 24 de Setiembre and Urquiza. This was the site of the first cathedral in 856

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO monument built in honour of Saint Francisco Solano

1557. The present church was started in 1836 and was completed in 1851. The insignia for the transmission of authority in the province are kept in this church • Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco (Church and Convent of Saint Francis), Avenida Roca (S) 716 (corner of Avellaneda). The oldest part of this convent dates back to 1566. The church was founded in 1590 by San Francisco Solano, patron saint of Tucumán. Over the centuries the original church and convent underwent substantial alterations and additions. Inside the Convent is the Museo de Arte Religioso (Museum of Religious Art), which possesses religious objects pertaining to Saint Francisco Solano who used to preach here. The tour culminates with a visit to the cell which was occupied by the saint • Catedral Basilica Menor, 24 de Septiembre 55 on Plaza Libertad. Erected in 1876 on the spot where the first church in Argentina was built in 1581. It was also the first bishopric in Argentina. The new Corinthian-style temple was built by the Italian Agustín Canepa in 1876. All in all there were five churches built on this spot. This is the resting place of the bishops of Santiago del Estero and other famous provincial personalities • Iglesia y Convento de Santo Domingo (Dominican Church and Convent), corner of 25 de Mayo and Urquiza. A copy of the Holy Shroud of Turin is kept here, donated by King Phillip II as a royal gesture to his American colonies • Capilla de la Montanera, corner of Catamarca and 24 de Setiembre. Chapel of the patron saint of the brotherhood of the Montaneros, founded by the veterans of the battle at Pozo de Vargas Parks • Parque Francisco de Aguirre, on the river banks with huge old trees. The municipal swimming pool and camping is here, and many cafés with entertainment • In the park across from the Convento de San Francisco is a small zoo and a

s Excursions Tour operators • Santiago Tours, Pellegrini 39, @ 4218488 fax Excursions • The trip south to Córdoba on RN 9 goes through chaco country with shrubs and small trees on either side of the road, interrupted occasionally by a hacienda building. The country is quite flat. After Monte Redondo the road traverses the Salinas de Ambargasta and Río Saladillo for the next 59 km. The road is elevated to prevent flooding when the rivers rise or the salina floods. A low mountain range, the Sierra de Ambargasta, can be seen to the west. Shortly afterwards the Sierra de Sumampa, also very low, comes into view. At the intersection with RN 98 is Ojo de Agua, a small chaco town with a hotel-restaurant and an A.C.A. service station. Here is the turn-off to Sumampa, where there is a much venerated shrine which attracts many pilgrims; see Excursions from Villa Ojo de Agua on page 865. After crossing into Córdoba Province the country becomes hillier and greener, with clusters of palm trees, as the road winds through the little mountains. There are few homesteads in sight. Before arrival in Villa de María mountains can be seen on the eastern and southern horizon. Most of the trip goes through semi-arid country with long, straight stretches of road along the Sierras de Córdoba in the west. Only just before Córdoba does the country become greener again. The road is sealed all the way from Santiago del Estero to the city of Córdoba. On the way to Córdoba a detour may be made to Sumampa. See page 865 • Termas de Río Hondo: When in Santiago del Estero a trip to Termas de Río Hondo is recommended. See below

857

Santiago del Estero

CHACO PROVINCES

TERMAS DE RÍO HONDO

Termas de Río Hondo Population: 45 000 Postal code: 4220 @ area code: (03858) Altitude: 265 m Distance from Santiago del Estero: 65 km north-west on RN 9

T

ermas de Río Hondo is located on the Río Dulce, which was dammed 4 km below the city in 1966 to create Embalse Río Hondo. Hondo area but not much has come down to us from the colonial period. Its rise to fame began in 1914 when the first modest pensions were opened. Another milestone was the opening of the casino in 1928, when a railroad was completed. The tourist high season runs from May to October. During the tourist season the town boasts a cultural program, staged in the Centro Cultural San Martín (San Martín

The location was known to the Indians as “miraculous hot waters”. These hot springs intrigued the pre-Columbian Indians as well as the new Spanish arrivals. It is known that the area was settled by an indigenous population 2000 years ago. Around 500 AD the Mercedes culture, best identified by its painted pottery, developed on both sides of the Río Dulce. Several Spanish families settled in the Termas de Río

Key to map A C D E G I P $ T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Central Telecom Mercado Municipal Dirección Municipal de Turismo Y.P.F. service station Banco de la Nación Argentina Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 2 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

Residencial Florencia Hotel Alberdi Residencial Pucará Residencial Luis I Hotel Nueva Emperatriz Residencial Lancaster Residencial Michel Hotel Los Incas Hotel Los Pinos Hotel Cervantes Apart Hotel Atenas Apart Hotel Moreno Residencial Bariloche Apart Hotel Mi Casita Hotel Dora Hotel Florida

Termas de Río Hondo

18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 37 38 39 40 41 42 44 46 47 48 49

Hotel Petit Patric Hotel Jonathan Hotel Santa Clara Hotel Imperial Hotel América Residencial Namuncurá Residencial Telma Hotel Enricar Hotel Los Olivos Residencial Sierras Hotel Malibu Hotel Nuevo Río Hondo Hotel Semiramis Hotel San Lorenzo Hotel Venezia Residencial Rosita Hotel Termas Naranjo Residencial Savoy Hotel Casino Center Apart Hotel Phinos Hotel Los Felipe Apart Hotel Siglo VI Hotel Victoria Hotel Nuevo Madrid Hotel Miramar Hotel El Hostal del Abuelo Hotel Grand Hotel Hotel Bilbao Hotel Ambassador

858

50 52 54 56 58 59 60 61 63

Hotel Sevilla Apart Hotel Anush Apart Hotel Aranjuez Hotel San Remo Hotel Majestic Residencial Fleming Camping La Olla Hotel Mar del Plata Hotel Roma

4 Eating out 3 43 45 57

Pizzería Sandra Restaurant Don Quijote Restaurant El Chivito Restaurant El Rancho de Doña María

5 Entertainment

36 Disco Maracaibo 51 Restaurant Los Changos 62 Disco Alexander

6 Airline offices 55 Austral

0 Services

53 Delegación Provincial de Turismo

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO SAN MARTÍN

To Tucumán 1

9

TERMAS DE RÍO HONDO

2 BUENOS AIRES 12 DE OCTUBRE 3

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Río Dulc e To Santiago del Estero

859

Termas de Río Hondo

CHACO PROVINCES • Delegación Provincial de Turismo, Cultural Center). The district’s cliJ.B. Alberdi 245 @ 421477 mate is subtropical but it can get uncomfortably hot during the summer D Camping months. • A.C.A. Buenos Aires, on the northern Termas de Río Hondo sits on side of the river near the dam, 3 km from the city. Thermal water, restaufourteen different layers of thermal rant near golf course; forested waters ranging from 30°C to 65°C • El Mirador, corner of RN 9 and (85°F to 155°F). The curative water is Urquiza @ 421392. Thermal spring and recommended for high blood presforested sure and rheumatism. All public • La Olla, corner of H Yrigoyen and RN 9. Thermal water and restaurant; swimming pools contain thermal forested water, indeed the normal tap water temperature in hotels is hot. E Eating out The town has excellent tourist Termas Río Hondo is famous for alfajores, facilities. There are over 200 hotel esor sweets. Restaurants are concentrated on Sarmiento and Rivadavia tablishments (including three four-star hotels) with 14 000 bed caOpen all year round pacity. Road transport is concen• Almada, Fleming near Pasaje Besares. Local cuisine trated in a modern bus terminal, • Club Náutico, at the dam. Seafood where there are departures and ar• La Estancia, J.B. Alberdi near Ururivals on a twenty-four hour basis. guay. Parrilla The nearest airports are in Santiago • La Huerta, Sarmiento block 100 near del Estero and San Miguel de of J B Justo. Vegetarian • Los Changos, Libertad near J.B. Tucumán, both a comfortable Alberdi. Parrilla; show 11 2 hours bus ride. & • Restaurant El Rancho de Doña María, The nearby lake lends itself to J.B. Alberdi 130 near H Yrigoyen. sailing, fishing, and wind-surfing. It Parrilla is also a good base to visit the nearby tourist centers in Tucumán Prov- & Pizzerías • Sandra, J.B. Alberdi block 1000 beince. tween 12 de Octubre and España The latest tourist attraction is Cafeterías the thermal spa resort Yacu Rupaj lo• Avenida, San Martín near Rivadavia cated at Rincón de Atacama. It is a • Jockey Club, Caseros block 100 near forested area with more than 30 speRivadavia • La Placita, Avenida San Martín becies of trees and other plants tween Rivadavia and F Solano criss-crossed with paths. It also has a • Lajta Sumay, corner of Libertad and golf course, a recreational center and J.B. Alberdi, in the park thermal spa baths. Day visitors are • Santa Rita, Rivadavia 380 near F charged $15.00; bungalows cost $C Solano for 4. Open only during the tourist season •

A Festivals •

•

International sailing competition organized by Club Náutico: August Motor boat racing competition: May

• •

B Tourist information •

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Caseros 132 @ 421721

Termas de Río Hondo

860

Don Quijote, F. Solano 185. International cuisine and pastas El Chivito, F Solano 154. Local cuisine; goat meat La Cacerola, Caseros 124. Pizzería

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO C Accommodation in Termas de Río Hondo

&

Hotel prices vary according to seasonal demand and are higher in July-October. In smaller establishments you can very often bargain, especially outside the main tourist season. Accommodation between J.B. Alberdi and Roca Hotels **** **** **** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** **

&

** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** **

&

** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * * * * * * * *

ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ @ 421489 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ @ 421195 fax Los Pinos, Maipú 201 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ @ 421144 América, Caseros 422 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 421123 Casino Center, Caseros 126 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 422322 fax Crillón, F Solano 399 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 421161 Eduardo V, Sarmiento 135 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 421555 Termal Río Hondo, Sarmiento 119 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 421455 Bilbao, H Yrigoyen 641 AEFGJLPUV @ 421071 Borelli, 25 de Mayo 63 AEFGJLPSUV @ 421310 Castelar, San Martín near San Lorenzo AEFGJLPUV @ 421349 Castillo, Bolívar 67 AEFGJLPSUV @ 421135 Cervantes, Mar del Plata 651 AEFGJLPSUV Fax 421477 @ 421107 Costanera, Pasaje Dorrego 23 AEPS @ 421151 Dora, Maipú 264 AEFGJLPUV @ 421525 Enricar, Chacabuco 232 AEFGJLPUV @ 421415 Florida, Mar del Plata 515 AEFGJLPSUV @ 421228 Hostal del Sol, Sarmiento 300 AEFGJLPUV @ 421020 fax Jonathan, Caseros 459 AEFGJLPSUV @ 421044 Los Felipe, F Solano 230 AEFGJLPSV @ 421484 Los Incas, Maipú 101 AEFGJLPSUV @ 421068 Los Olivos, Mar del Plata 455 AEFGJLPSUV @ 421313 Monterrey, Rivadavia 225 AEFGJLPSUV @ 421174 Plaza, Rivadavia 358 AEFGJLPSUV @ 421631 Premier, F Solano 3 AEFGJLPUV @ 421244 Roma, H Yrigoyen 344 AEFGJLPSUV @ 421037 San Lorenzo, San Lorenzo 200 AEFGJLPSUV @ 421322 San Remo, J.B. Alberdi 165 AEFGJLPUV @ 421105 Santa Clara, Caseros 457 AELPV @ 421178 Semiramis, Caseros 303 AEFGJLPUV @ 421044 Shalotel, Avenida Rivadavia AEFGJLPUV @ 421619 Sosa, Rivadavia 778 AEFGJLPUV @ 421213 fax Termas Naranjo, J.B. Alberdi 378 AEFGJLPUV @ 421015 Alberdi, J.B. Alberdi 1180 AEFLPV @ 421199 Aragón, San Martín 164 AELPV @ 421452 Bristol, Rivadavia 300 AELPV @ 421039 Cuenca del Sol, Fleming 184 AELPV @ 421129 Gran Habana, 25 de Mayo 351 AELPV @ 421086 Imperial, Caseros 451 AELPV @ 421240 Inti Yacu, 25 de Mayo 171 AELPV @ 421509 Jímenez, P L Gallo 28 AEFLPV @ 421490 Las Vegas, Absalón Rojas 117 AELPV @ 421010 Majestic, J.B. Alberdi 126 AELPV @ 421391 Miramar, F Solano 181 AELPV @ 421120 El Hostal del Abuelo, F Solano 168 Fax 421507 Grand Hotel, H Yrigoyen 552

861

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Termas de Río Hondo

CHACO PROVINCES Accommodation in Termas de Río Hondo — continued * * * * * *

Nuevo Madrid, Mar del Plata 258 Petit Patric, Mar del Plata 520 San Carlos, Sarmiento 298 Sarmiento, Sarmiento 555 Venezia, Caseros 396 Victoria, Mar del Plata 251

AELPV AEFLPV AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV

Residenciales A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A B B B B B B B B B B

Bittar, 25 de Mayo 181 LP California, Pasaje Dorrego 47 LP Chabe Ross, J B Justo 89 FLP Charito, Mar del Plata 376 FLP Fleming, Fleming 53 LP Florencia, J.B. Alberdi 1190 near Italia LP Hurlingham, P L Gallo 116 LP Insua, N Avellaneda 174 LP Italia, Rivadavia 747 LP Michel, J.B. Alberdi 780 FLP Namuncura, San Lorenzo 255 LP Norte, Sarmiento 423 LP Rosita, Caseros 346 near Dorrego LP San Francisco, Sarmiento 75 LP Savoy, J.B. Alberdi 340 ELP Bariloche, Chacabuco 45 L Claudy, Pasteur 36 L Daives, Sarmiento 521 L Iruña, Pasaje Dorrego 49 FL La Perla, San Martín 328 L Luis I, J.B. Alberdi 852 near Laprida LP Provincial, Sarmiento 127 L Pucará, J.B. Alberdi 956 LP Rivadavia, Rivadavia 320 L Telma, San Lorenzo 267 L

Apart hotels A A A A A A A B B B B B

Aranjuez, J.B. Alberdi 280 La Recova, Sarmiento 44 Mi Casita, Chacabuco 255 Paz, Bolívar 117 Phinos, Caseros 186 Siglo VI, F Solano 256 Sipos, Gorostiaga 43 Carlitos, Sarmiento 21 Coria, Absalón Rojas 153 Elba, Rivadavia 742 Juárez, F Solano 371 Victor Hugo, Absalón Rojas 57

FLP LP LP FLP LP FLP LP L L L L L

@ @ @ @ @ @

421240 421030 421360 421214 421480 421421

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

421344 421343 421381 421034 421181 421095 421162 421402 421004 421396 421006 421776 421232 421160 421404 421426

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421076 421232 421329

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421734 421003

@ @ @ @ @ @

421108 421251 421157 421641 421353 421719

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Accommodation between J.B. Alberdi and Pedro F . Uriarte Hotels **** *** *** **

ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ Ambassador, Libertad 184 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Termal Nuevo Río Hondo, Suipacha 77 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ City, Belgrano 245 AEFGJLPUV @ Grand Palace, Belgrano 367

Termas de Río Hondo

862

421089 421196 421113 421018

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO Accommodation in Termas de Río Hondo — continued ** ** ** * * * *

Mar del Plata, H Yrigoyen 289 Mónaco, M Güemes 363 Nueva Emperatriz, J.D. Perón 132 Hawai, Islas Malvinas 448 Malibu, Tacuari 148 Sevilla, Libertad 80 Suiza, A Tabaoda 399

Residenciales A A B B B

Australia, M Güemes 687 Lancaster, J.D. Perón 100 Alicia, Ejército del Norte 467 La Morocha, Ejército del Norte 245 Sierras, Suipacha 287

AEFGJLPSUV AEFGJLPSUV AEFGJLPSUV AELPV AEFLPV AELPV AELPV

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421124 421523 421746 421115 421391 421246 421128

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421607 421834 421158 421042 421084 421208 Fax 421673

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Apart Hotels A A A A A A B B B B

Anush, Libertad 33 LP Atenas, J.D. Perón 267 LP Gulfi, Belgrano 287 LP Ka Ri Ve, Belgrano 161 LP Oásis, Belgrano 153 LP Río Dulce, Belgrano 195 near Tacuari LP El Parque, Belgrano near Libertad L Moreno, J.D. Perón 237 L San Antonio, Belgrano 12 L Sheraton, Pedro F Uriarte 695 L

n Entertainment • •

• • • • • •

•

1 1 1 1 1

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•

Bowling Termas, Sarmiento 114; Galería Phines downstairs Casino Provincial de Termas de Río Hondo, Rivadavia 57. Open daily 21:00–03:00. Roulette and card games, tanguería, disco and peña Disco Alexander, Fleming 18 near P L Gallo. Open daily Disco Golden Globe, Rivadavia 164 near Caseros. For young people Tanguería Don Santiago, Gorostiaga 188 Tanguería Llajta Sumaj, Parque Miguel de Güemes. Open daily; for adults Disco Maracaibo, Caseros 124 near Rivadavia. For young people Centro Cultural San Martín, Sarmiento and Belgrano. Caters for exhibitions, concerts, and live theater

Banco de la Nación Argentina, Caseros 56

M Services and facilities

• •

Photography: Rapifoto, Sarmiento 120 Sport and fishing equipment: Elba, Rivadavia 740

R Air services

All air services are via Santiago del Estero or Tucumán. See Air services from Santiago del Estero on page 856 and from Tucumán on page 773. • Austral, Rivadavia 358 @ 421631

U Motoring

RN 9 from Termas de Río Hondo to Santiago del Estero is sealed all the way. • Service station: Y.P.F., Tucumán 656 near Chacabuco

I Post and telegraph •

$H $I $I $I $I

Y Shopping

Post office: Correo Central, J.B. Alberdi 778 near 9 de Julio Telephone: Telecom, Caseros 198 near Sarmiento

The main shopping centers are in Rivadavia and Caseros. • Ancha Sumaj, Sarmiento 74. Regional artesanías or handicrafts 863

Termas de Río Hondo

CHACO PROVINCES S Buses from Termas de Río Hondo

The bus terminal is on the corner of Las Heras and 12 de Octubre, eight blocks from the city center; some small bus companies have their own terminals. Bus companies • Empresa Río Dulce, San Juan 529; services to Chauchillas • Empresa Costera del Dulce; services to Palma Larga and San José • A9 Atahualpa • A28 Central Argentino @ 422514 • A37 Expreso Panamericano, @ 421127 • A55 La Estrella @ 421769 • A67 El Ranchilleño • A72 El Rayo • A77 El Tucumano • A85 Balut Hnos • A92 Empresa General Urquiza, España @ 422509 • A94 Empresa Gutiérrez • A157 La Internacional @ 422094 • A163 La Unión • A164 La Veloz del Norte • A297 Empresa Salles Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Services Buenos Aires $45.00 3–4 daily Córdoba $23.10 6 daily Corrientes $26.40 1 daily Jujuy $21.10 3 daily Paraná 1 daily Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña $19.80 1 daily Resistencia $25.70 1 daily Salta $19.80 3 daily Santa Fe 1 daily Santiago del Estero $3.00 29 daily Tucumán

$4.00

Duration 15 hrs 8 hrs 13 hrs 61 2hrs 111 2 hrs 11 hrs 121 2hrs 6 hrs 11 hrs

• •

27 daily

Miguel de Tucumán, Tafí del Valle, and Santiago del Estero. • Santiago Tour, S.R.L., Pellegrini 33 @ 424725 fax Excursions • Santiago del Estero: Just past the Río Dulce crossing, the spillway of the Río Hondo dam comes into full view. Around the artificial lake there are many camping spots. To the south the shrub-covered chaco savanna predominates, extending as far as 4km before Santiago del Estero. Isolated homesteads can be seen. The road becomes a straight line running through

Fishing: In the lake for bagre and dorado, some over 12 kg Golf: Campo de Golf, Avenida Ejército del Norte near Lugones, on the Río Dulce; nine-hole golf course Water-skiing and skin-diving: In the lake. Instruction provided for novices by Club Náutico de Termas

s Excursions Tour operators Tour operators organize day tours to San Fernando del Valle de Catamarca, San

Termas de Río Hondo

A72 A72 A37 A55

1 hr A9, A33, A37, A55, A67, A72, A85, A94, A163, A164, A297 11 2hrs A23, A57, A67, A77, A163, A164

a Sport •

Company A9, A55, A33, A37 A72 A37 A55

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SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO

•

•

flat country right down to Santiago del Estero. There are no mountains in sight to break the monotony. In the shrub loros, a type of parakeet with very colourful plumage, can be seen. Tour operators organize half-day tours to Santiago del Estero. See also Santiago del Estero on page 850 Embalse Río Hondo: The nearby dam on the Río Dulce forms a 33 000 ha (81 545 acres) lake which is used for sailing and fishing. The dam is 30 m high and over 4 km long

•

Vieja Villa Río Hondo (Old Río Hondo Town): 22 km south of Termas de Río Hondo. Before it was submerged in the lake the original village was the second oldest Spanish settlement in the province. The village was shifted to its new location in 1966. In the past this was an important thoroughfare to Alto Perú in present Bolivia. It was also a Jesuit mission, and one of the places which San Francisco Solano visited To Tucumán

VILLA OJO DE AGUA

Villa Ojo de Agua Population: 12 000 Postal code: 5250 @ area code: (03856) Distance from Santiago del Estero: 237 km south on RN 9

V

illa Ojo de Agua is situated in the southern part of the province halfway between the cities of Córdoba and Santiago del Estero. The Sierra de Sumampa, a range of low hills in the vicinity, is of archeological importance. •

Also included here are Sumampa and its facilities.

•

C Accommodation

A Residencial El Tala, RN 9 KM 956 LP B Residencial Albergue C Argentino, RN 9 KM 958 L Accommodation in Sumampa Accommodation is basic and completely booked out during the September festival. C Residencial Nuevo Sumampa, Avenida San Martín • Hospedaje La Negrita, Avenida San Martín • Hospedaje El Amanecer • Hospedaje Imperio, Avenida San Martín • Hospedaje Spedale. Señor Spedale also escorts tourists to the rock paintings at Piedras Pintados

U Motoring

•

Service station: A.C.A., RN 9

s Excursions

•

S Buses •

Empresas Robert, Sumampa and Tío run daily services to Sumampa El Serrano runs irregular services across the Sierra de Ambargasta to El Quebrachal near the Salinas de Ambargasta

Cacorba runs daily services to Añatuya (41 4 hrs); 2 services to Córdoba, Santiago del Estero (3 hrs)

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Originally a Jesuit mission, Sumampa is located 31 km east on RP 13. On the way you pass the Sierra de Sumampa, a low mountain range. One of the original landholders was of Portuguese origin. He asked for an image of the Holy Virgin to be sent from Brazil in 1630, and built the original chapel to house it. The existing church construction dates from 1720 and was built by landholder Saa. Santuario de la Virgen de Nuestra Señora de la Consolación (Sanctuary of the Virgin of Our Lady of Consolation), 3 km east of Sumampa at Sumampa Viejo, attracts thousands of pilgrims in September and again Villa Ojo de Agua

CHACO PROVINCES however, and only of interest to archeology buffs. Empresa Robert runs direct services from Santiago del Estero; alternatively Empresa Sumampa runs two daily services from Ojo de Agua

on 23 November. Thermal springs form a large rock pool just in front of the church. Piedras Pintadas (Painted Rocks) is 3 km past the church, in scrub country. The area was settled in pre-Columbian times by Indian tribes who left many rock paintings all over the Sierra de Sumampa. A bit disappointing,

STOPOVERS

Stopovers Guasayán 75 km west of Santiago del Estero at the northern end of the Sierra de Guasayán and reached on RN 64 and RP 3 en route to Frías.

Stopovers

Accommodation • Hospedaje Achalay, Libertad

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CHACO CHACO PROVINCES Chaco

Plate 19 869 870 871 872 876 878 882

Map of Chaco Province Juan José Castelli Ss Parque Nacional Chaco CDSU Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña Map BCDSEnJKLMTUaps Resistencia BCDEnJKLMNPRSUYaps Map Map of city center

haco Province shares borders in the south-east with Corrientes, the south with Santa Fe, the south-west with Santiago del Estero, the north-west with Salta, the north-east with Formosa along the Ríos Teuco and Bermejo, and for a short distance in the east, along the Río Paraguay, with Paraguay.

C

Chaco Province is still a pioneer region. Large tracts of the province are covered with dense forest, and logging of quebracho wood is an important industry. It has 100 000 square km (38 610 square miles) and there are approximately 850 000 inhabitants. Agriculture forms the basis of economic activity. This province is the main cotton-producing region in Argentina, although in some areas, because of soil exhaustion, sunflower is replacing cotton. The second place is taken by forestry, especially felling of quebracho, not only for wood but also for tannin

production. Until quite recently the chaco region was impenetrable, but in recent years many roads have been built, most of them just tracks to exploit the natural riches. These roads have also opened up the province for tourism, although facilities in remote areas have not yet reached a standard for sophisticated tourists. For the time being the chaco remains the realm of the adventurer and nature-lover. Most of the rain falls in the eastern part, decreasing towards the west. Water is scarce in the center and in the western regions of the province. In summer the

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Chaco

CHACO PROVINCES temperature can exceed 45°C (110°F) for days on end. Extended periods of drought are the bane of the chaco and in some parts water has to be carted to the townships by truck or train. The underground water is mostly saline. When the rains do come, the water covers hundreds of kilometers of low-lying land. Thus the chaco is a country of extremes: one day there is no water, next day there is a flood. In 1878 the first North Italian immigrants arrived, followed later by German immigrants. After World War II many Ukrainians chose this province as their new home. The center of economic life is greater Resistencia which encompasses the provincial capital Resistencia as well as the port of Barranqueras and the industrial suburb of Puerto Vilelas, some 1000 km north of Buenos Aires. The history of this province is fascinating. The first European to set foot in the chaco was Alejo García, who was shipwrecked on the Brazilian coast in 1526. He joined a band of Chaco Indians roaming the country, and it is claimed that he was with this tribe when it attacked an eastern outpost of the Inca Empire—reports reached Huayna Capac, who resided at that time in Quito, that a bearded white man was with the attacking Chaco Indians. In 1528 Sebastián Cabot reached Corrientes and crossed into the chaco. Juan de Ayolas, who arrived in 1536, was involved in fighting with the Chaco Indians. In 1585 Capitán Alonso de Vera y Aragón founded the town of Concepción del Bermejo near the mouth of the Río Bermejo, but owing to incessant attacks by the Toba Indians this fort had to be

Chaco

abandoned in 1632. In 1750 a settlement on the site of Resistencia under the name of Reducción de San Fernando del Río Negro was founded, but again this attempt at colonization had to be abandoned in 1773. In 1780 an expedition from Salta under the command of Colonel Francisco Gavino de Arias founded Reducción de La Cangayé and nearby Reducción de San Bernardo El Vértiz, neither of which lasted beyond 1804. A new wave of colonization began in 1863. With the exploitation of the rich chaco forests, the military established forts along the Río Negro and beyond. Around 1880 full-scale European settlement began. In the north-western part of the chaco some of the original wildlife remains. Pumas, ñandus, and tapir can still be seen occasionally. For the tourist a visit to the Parque Nacional Chaco near Presidencia de La Plaza is suggested, as well as to various ruined Spanish settlements such as Reducción de La Cangayé near Fortín Lavalle (off RN 95). Other provincial parks and nature reserves are Parque Provincial Pampa del Indio reached from Resistencia via Quitilipi (page 876), Reserva Natural Estricta Colonia Benítez reached from Resistencia (page 885), Reserva Provincial Isla del Cerrito a short trip from Resistencia (page 884), and Reserva Provincial Fuerte Esperanza reached via Castelli (page 870). Good tourist facilities are only available in Resistencia and to a lesser degree in Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña. It is from those two cities that tour operators organize trips into the chaco. For the adventure tourist armed with a four-wheel

868

CHACO drive vehicle there are fascinating areas to explore with some settlements purely Indian. But beware as the thick thorn bush which forms the undergrowth makes many areas almost impenetrable. Also in the river flats — and not only river flats — there are wide swamps where it is easy to get bogged down. It is suggested that you use the services of a tour operator rather than go on your own: the countryside is still largely wilderness. The best time to visit the province is between June and September.

Large numbers of Moscoví Indians live in inland towns such as Villa Angela and San Bernardo. Toba Indians live around Quitilipi and Fontana; Mataco Indians live in and around El Sauzalito, Nueva Pompeya and El Sauzal. These Indians are expert potters, weavers, and basket-makers. Of interest are the hammocks and tapestry made of chaguar fibre. The chaguar is a thorny plant growing in the wilderness which yields a strong fibre similar to sisal. Their goods can be bought in Resistencia.

JUAN JOSÉ CASTELLI

Juan José Castelli Population: 13 000 Postal code: 3705 @ area code: (03732) Altitude: 110 m Distances • From Resistencia: 242 km west on RN 16 then RN 95 and RP 9 • From Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña: 113 km north on RN 95 and RP 9

U

sually referred to as “Castelli”, this town is included as a separate entity as it is strategically situated in the vicinity of several historical sites. There are regular bus services from Resistencia and Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña but there are no tourist facilities here: it is a place for the adventure tourist.

S Bus services • •

hundred years ago in areas which are even today an adventure trip must be admired. • Reducción de San Bernardo El Vertiz: Located 76 km north-east on RP 9 at the headwaters of the Río Bermejito. This was a resettlement village for Toba Indians, founded in 1780, but it lasted only for 15 years. What can be seen are the remains or rather outlines of the chapel, the cemetery, and a few houses. If you make it that far one of the villagers at La Hachera will be able to guide you. Few tour operators in either Resistencia or Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña make this trip on a regular basis

Tres Isletas (11 4 hrs); 1 daily; TATA Schreiber Transportes, Gral Güemes 436 @ 471231; to Resistencia

s Excursions

I suggest you make the following excursions with a tour operator. Plenty of wildlife can be seen on all these trips even if the final destination is an archeological site. Recommended for history and/or archeology buffs and nature-lovers; but remember this is pioneer country and to get there takes a 4WD vehicle and a bit of bushmanship to find the actual locations. In this context it should be said the stamina of both Spanish military and clergy to found outposts of civilization some two

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Juan José Castelli

CHACO PROVINCES •

•

Ruinas de Guacará: 20 km west on a dirt road. This was an early Spanish encomienda. Excavations point to a violent end of the population at the hands of the chaco tribes Reserva Provincial Fuerte Esperanza: 194 km west on RP 9 which is a dirt road. This trip can be combined with the trip to the Franciscan mission of Nueva Pompeya. The reserve covers 28 450 ha (70 300 acres) and is 160 m above sea level. This is a semi-arid part of the province with temperature reaching in summer 46°C (115°F) and averages in winter 15°C (55°F). The annual rainfall is 600 mm, falling almost entirely in the rainy season. The soil is void of nutrients and the open forest which covers it regenerates itself. With the thick undergrowth of thorn bushes and other shrubs it is virtually impossible to penetrate. Most trees are of the quebracho variety, interspersed with palo santo and algarrobos. In the reserve live pumas, mountain cats, giant armadillos, land turtles, and red iguanas; a rich birdlife includes loros, cranes, torcaza pigeons; snakes include coral, cascabel, and yarará. La Estrella runs daily services from

•

Resistencia to Castelli and Fuerte Esperanza continuing to Taco Pozo on the RN 1, the main route between Salta and Resistencia. From Taco Pozo you have two services daily to Salta and Resistencia plying RN 16; TATA Central El Rápido runs 1 service daily via Monte Quemado ( 3 4hour), Quimilí (5 1 2 hrs), and Añatuya (7 hrs) with connections to Santiago del Estero. A visit to the Reserva Provincial Fuerte Eperanza is best made with a tour operator or with your own 4WD Misión Nueva Pompeya: This Franciscan mission is located 184 km north-west. The gruelling trip on a dirt road is only for the hardy and well equipped traveler. The Franciscan Mission was established in 1900 in the middle of the Argentine chaco region before even provincial borders were delineated. The population is Indian. Nearby are large swamps created by the Río Bermejo with lots of wildlife, in particular birds. As far as I know there are no organized trips by any tour operator

PARQUE NACIONAL CHACO

Parque Nacional Chaco Distances • From Resistencia 115 km west on RN 16 and RP 9 • From Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña 70 km east on RN 16 and a dirt road north from Presidencia de La Plaza

T

his park covers approximately 15 000 ha (37 065 acres) and remains almost completely in its natural state with marshes, open savannahs, and gallery forests and scrub forests, the latter almost impenetrable. Mature quebracho and lapacho trees grow to more than 20 m. The wildlife includes monkeys, mountain cats, foxes, and birds of all colors and sizes. Most of the forests are concentrated in the center, east, and south of the park. The western part consists of a typical savannah with caranday palms predominating. The south-east around the Laguna Panza de Cabra consists chiefly of typical wetlands vegetation, where the flora includes quebracho, ceiba, palm trees, and orchids. There is a vehicle trail of about 3 km, and four-wheel drive vehicles can

Parque Nacional Chaco

do another 15 km on a dirt track; keep to the trails and tracks. There is

870

CHACO S Bus

an information office in the park, and there are picnic areas, extensive walking trails, camping, and toilet facilities. Admission is $5.00 and park attendants provide guided tours for a small fee. The main access to the park is from Capitán Solari on RP 9, some 16 km north of Colonia Elisa. The road from Resistencia is sealed as far as Colonia Elisa. The nearest tourist facilities are in Presidencia de la Plaza. This little town is located on RN 16, 98 km west of Resistencia.

Transporte La Estrella runs two buses daily from Resistencia to Laguna Limpia via Colonia Elisa and Capitán Solari, taking approximately three hours. If you decide to stay overnight in Presidencia de la Plaza, Empresa Central Sáenz Peña runs four services daily to and from Resistencia. When using public transport bear in mind that there are three access roads to the national park: if descending at Capitán Solari it is 6 km to the park entrance; if staying in Presidencia de La Plaza it is 10 km to the southern park entrance; and if descending in Colonia Elisa it is also 10 km to the south-eastern park entrance.

C Accommodation

U Motoring

Accommodation in Presidencia de la Plaza Residenciales B Bettiana L B Brondo L

Motoring in Presidencia de la Plaza • Service station: Esso, RN 16 near access road into the village

D Camping •

Parque Nacional Chaco, located 6 km from Capitán Solari. Capacity: 50 tents; open all year

PRESIDENCIA ROQUE SÁENZ PEÑA

Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña Population: 65 000 Postal code: 3700 @ area code: (03732) Altitude: 90 m Distances: From Resistencia 169 km westwards on RN 16

P

residencia Roque Sáenz Peña was founded in 1912. It is situated in the dry chaco and the underground water is mainly saline. Hot springs have been found here and a substantial tourist resort has developed; the water emerges at 38°C (100°F) and has therapeutic properties. It is the center of a cotton-growing area. This town is known locally simply as “Peña”, and elsewhere as “Sáenz Peña” or “Roque Sáenz Peña”. It is often written as “P R S Peña”. Some Toba Indian families still live in and around Presidencia

Roque Sáenz Peña and produce a wide range of arts and crafts, such as weaving, basket-making, and pottery. Originally the streets were given numbers, but these have

871

Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña

CHACO PROVINCES PUEYRREDÓN

MARIANO MORENO

2

V. LÓPEZ Y PLANES

J.J. DE URQUIZA

14

BELGRANO

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

RIVADAVIA

P. PRINGLES

N BROWN

gradually been replaced by names, so that streets now bear both numbers and names. However, in many cases the street sign for either the number or the name is missing. Often both signs are missing; go back to the nearest intersection with a street sign. Temperatures in summer can rise above 40 °C (105°F). Visit from May to October. Also included here is Villa Angela, a small town 96 km south of town on RN 95. Empresa Santa Fe, Presidente Perón 487 @(03735) 431244 and COTAPVAL, Ave. 25 de Mayo 1254 @ (03735) 421553 run regular bus services to Resistencia on RN 89 via Charadai and also via Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña. Villa Angela has an airstrip and a golf course. Other towns included are Charata 109 km south-west on RN 89 with 16 000 inhabitants and daily buses; General Pinedo 126 km south-west on RN 89 with 7500 inhabitants and daily buses; Hermoso Campo 28 km south of General Pinedo on RP 5 has 3000 inhabitants and daily buses; and Las Breñas 91 km south-west on RN 89 with 1400 inhabitants and daily bus services. Facilities are listed under the appropriate headings. Peña is a good base for excursions in the outback and several bus companies make tours into the

PRESIDENCIA ROQUE SÁENZ PEÑA

1

AVELLANEDA

PALMIRA

3 LAPRIDA

D

B. MITRE 4 P

25 DE MAYO $

7

To T

E

6

5 9 DE JULIO 8 I

CARLOS PELLEGRINI

Plaza San Martín A

9 CHACABUCO

12 SAAVEDRA

16

16

To Resistencia

To Salta and Santiago del Estero

C

AVE. D.F. SARMIENTO

13

AVE. J.M. DE ROSAS

Key to map A C D E I P $ T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Turismo Municipal Service station: A.C.A. Nordecoop Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1

Hotel Nogaró Gualok

3 4 6 7 11 12

Residencial El Colono Residencial Premier Residencial Asturias Residencial Augustus Residencial Internacional Residencial Orel

4 Eating out

5 Cafetería Sarava 9 Restaurant El Fogón 10 Cafetería Polito

Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña

872

7 Tour operators 14 Tobas Tur

0 Services

2 Termas de Sáenz Peña 13 Disused F C General M Belgrano station

CHACO C Accommodation in Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña Hotels ***

Nogaró Gualok, San Martín 1198 Fax 420521

Residenciales A A A A B B

Asturias, Belgrano (Calle 9) 402 Augustus, Belgrano 483 Internacional, Urquiza 289 Orel, San Martin 131 El Colono, San Martín 755 Premier, Belgrano 589

Accommodation in Villa Angela **

Hotel Bariloche, 25 de Mayo 280

Residenciales

B Colón, M.T. de Alvear 176 B Petit, B. Mitre 531

Accommodation in Santa Sylvina B Residencial Polini, L.N. Alem

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

@

420715

LP LP LP LP FL L

@ @ @ @ @ @

420210 422068 421140 420101 422338 420764

ADEFGJKLPTUV

@

(03735) 420953

L L

@

(03735) 420052 $I

L

@

(03735) 421262

@ @

(03731) 460229 $J (03731) 460229 $J

1 1

@ @

(03731) 420354 (03731) 420157 $H

1

Accommodation in Las Breñas Residenciales

B El Gordo, 25 de Mayo 1334 L B Imperio, Los Inmigrantes near Paraguay L

Accommodation in Charata Residenciales B Miramar, Pringles 850 B Mocoví, Güemes 1200

L L

$F

2

$H $G $J

2 2 1

1

Youth hostel/albergue

• Centro de Educación Física # 9, Municipalidad Rivadavia 374 Capacity: 12 bunks @ (03731) 470034

Accommodation in Hermoso Campo

B Hospedaje El Bambi, Avenida 9 de Julio 432 L

@

(03735) 495229 $H

@ @

(03732) 480196 (03732) 480107

2

Accommodation in General Pinedo Hotels

• Gualamba, Calle 8 near access road • Parra, Avenida Pedro Parra

Accommodation in Quitilipi B Porteño,

L

D Camping

outback like Transporte La Nueva Estrella BIS S.R.L.

•

El Descanso, 1 km from city center. Capacity 100 tents; electricity, restaurant, forested, $J 1. Municipal buses Camping in Villa Angela • Camping Dr. Hugo C. Arece, 3 km outside town on western access. Hot water but cold showers, electricity; fishing

B Tourist information •

Turismo Municipal, Casa de La Cultura, San Martín near 9 de Julio @ 423548

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Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña

CHACO PROVINCES S Buses from Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña

The bus terminal is on Calle 304, some 10 blocks from the city center @ 420280. Frequent municipal buses; restaurant Bus companies • Águila Dorada, Francisco N. Canteros @ 424378 ° Charata • La Internacional @ 425340 ° Salta via Monte Quemado • La Nueva Estrella, Comandante Fernández 1326 @ 424480. Contact Señor Feron E. Ramón for tours. ° Hermoso Campo via Campo Largo, Corzuela, Las Breñas, Charata, General Pinedo, and Gancedo • Central Sáenz Peña ° Villa Río Bermejito • La Estrella, Pellegrini 146 @ 424077/426414 ° Taco Pozo via Castelli and Fuerte Esperanza; 1 daily • El Rayo ° Santiago del Estero via Charata, General Pinedo; 2 daily 12:00, 22:30 • TATA, Calle 304 @ 425321 ° General Pinedo (23 4 hrs) via Campo Largo, Corzuela, Las Breñas, and Charata; 1 daily ° Tres Isletas (11 4 hrs); 1 daily Interprovincial and international services •

Destination Buenos Aires

• • •

Córdoba Mendoza Resistencia

3 daily 3 weekly 6 daily

• •

Salta $35.20 Santiago del Estero $20.00 Tucumán $23.10 Termas de Río Hondo $22.00

1 daily

• •

Fares $61.00

Services 4 daily

Duration Company 18 hrs El Tata, Central Rápido, La Nueva Estrella, La Internacional La Estrella COTAL Central Sáenz Peña, La Estrella, La Internacional 13 hrs La Veloz del Norte

2 daily 1 daily

9 hrs El Rayo 11 hrs El Rayo

1 daily

10 hrs

Camping in Las Breñas, RN 94 • Municipal camping; electricity, restaurant, forested

•

E Eating out

•

Restaurants • El Decano, Blas Parera 490 • El Fogón, Moreno 202. Parrilla Cafeterías • Polito, San Martín 290 near Chacabuco, on the Plaza • Sarava, San Martín 420 near 9 de Julio

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Belgrano 602 Telephone: Telecom, Rivadavia 435

L Finance

•

Nordecoop, Avenida 25 de Mayo 464

M Services and facilities

•

Disco Password, Saavedra near San Martín

Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña

Disco Tropicumbia, Saavedra near San Martín

I Post and telegraph

n Entertainment •

El Rayo

874

Termas de Sáenz Peña (thermal baths), Brown 541; the thermal water’s temperature is 45 °C (110°F)

CHACO T Trains

The now disused F C General M Belgrano station is on the corner of Avenida D.F. Sarmiento (formerly Calle 1) and J.J. de Urquiza, opposite Belgrano.

U Motoring

The road through the chaco to Salta via Monte Quemado can be cut during the wet season. • Service station: A.C.A., 25 de Mayo 725

•

Motoring in Villa Angela • Service Station: Y.P.F., RN 95 Motoring in Las Breñas • Service station: Y.P.F., intersection RP 6 and RN 89 Motoring in Quitilipi • Service station: Shell, Intersection RN 16 near access road into town Motoring in Gancedo • Service station: Y.P.F., RN 89

a Sport •

Golf: Centro Democrático Español, Lote 12 Bajo Mundo RP 95 @ (03714) 421923; restaurant at Moreno 299 Sport in Villa Angela • Golf: Club Atlético Alvear, Quinta 3 Sector Este @ (03713) 420953

•

s Excursions Tour operators • Tobas Tour, Sup Palmira 480 @ 423105 Excursions • Complejo Ecológico Municipal: 4 km east of town near the intersection of RN 95 and RN 16. It started out as a small zoo but is now a huge wildlife reserve divided into sectors. The Parque Zoológico covers 25 ha (62 acres) and approximately 2000 different chaco animals are kept in a semi-natural environment. Many of the endangered species such as jaguars, anteaters, and yacarés can be seen here. The Reserva Botanica occupies 20 ha (49 acres) and here most of the chaco flora can be seen in its natural state. The Reserva Zoológica covers approximately 60 ha (148 acres)

•

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and is a type of experimental farm for chaco animals and how to raise them in captivity to bring them back from the brink of extinction. There is also a 20 ha (49 acres) artificial lake on the site. For those who want to see native flora and fauna without venturing too far away from civilization. Municipal bus; small admission charged Campo del Cielo (Field of Heaven): Approximately 195 km south-east, in the vicinity of Gancedo, this site derives its name from a meteorite shower which landed here. The turnoff south from RN 89 is just before Gancedo. The actual museum is at a place called Las Víboras which you pass on the way to the site. This meteorite apparently came down some 6000 years ago and created the craters. Some of the biggest fragments are now on display in museums in New York and Buenos Aires. Small meteorite pieces can still be found. Empresa Nueva Estrella runs a daily service from Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña to Gancedo, taking four hours, fare $4.00. However, the problem is getting from there to the site. Check with Hotel Nogaró in Peña to see if there is also a tourist bus Concepción del Bermejo: In 1585 Alfonso de Vera y Aragón founded here the Reducción de Nuestra Señora de La Buena Esperanza del Río Bermejo, but it was abandoned because of attacks by Chaco Indians. It was re-discovered in 1943 by Alfredo Martinet. The actual site of the ruins is near Estancia El Estierro. This trip is recommended for those interested in history and archeology. Empresa Central Sáenz Peña runs a daily service to KM 71, taking two hours; fare $4.00. Take water with you and check with the bus driver for directions. The return bus leaves at 07:00 next day Villa Río Bermejito: Located 130 km north off RN 95 on the banks of the Río Bermejito, which is a tributary of the Río Bermejo, this is one of the most remote and relatively unspoilt parts of the Argentine chaco. There are clear waters and sandy beaches however a few villas have been built recently nearby. The area still abounds

Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña

CHACO PROVINCES

•

temperature is 15°C (50°F). The best time to visit is from May to November. The landscape pattern is undulating and where cultivated it is a savannah covered with esparto grass and dotted with tataré trees and ceibo trees. Where the land is in its natural state it is tree-covered, consisting mostly of several varieties of quebracho and other chaco trees. Most of the circular lakes found here are devoid of marshy vegetations. The low depressions are known for their tender grass with caranday palms. Along the rivers are gallery forests. The undergrowth of the forests consists of thorny bushes, cactus, and a dwarf palm called granadillo with fan-like leaves. The area has escaped to a large extent the depradations of timber cutting and thus there is a varied wildlife: of the feline species there are pumas and mountain cats, giant armadillos, several types of lizards, and of the snake family there is the cascabel and coral snake; birdlife is represented by several species of loros, colorful toucans, herons, storks, and owls. Best visited with a tour operator from either Resistencia or Presidencia Roque Saenz Peña

in wildlife, including colorful birds, yacarés (caymans), gray foxes, and wildcats. There are many Indian settlements here. In the vicinity the remains of Reducción de La Cangayé founded in 1780 can be visited. An adventure trip for nature-lovers; remember to take a tent and mosquito repellent. Empresa Central Sáenz Peña runs a daily service departing at 09:15 and taking four and half hours; fare $3.50. The Villa Río Bermejito camping ground is directly on the river Parque Provincial Pampa del Indio: This provincial park is located 102 km north on RP 4; the turnoff from RN 16 is at Quitilipi. It is included here because from Resistencia it is over 200 km north-west on RN 16 and RP 4. Empresa Pourcel and Nueva Godoy run one direct service each from Resistencia to Pampa del Indio. This provincial park covers 8633 ha (21 332 acres) and is located in the subtropical sub-humid to dry zone at an altitude of 90 m. The annual precipitation is over 900 mm but most of it falls in summer and autumn. The average summer temperature is 28°C (80°F) and the average winter

RESISTENCIA

Resistencia Population: 230 000 Postal code: 3500 @ area code: (03722) Altitude: 52 m Distances • From Buenos Aires: 1007 km north on RN 11 • From Formosa: 169 km south on RN 11

M

odern and busy Resistencia, capital of Chaco Province, is located on the Río Barranqueras, 8 km up from its junction with the Río Paraná.

In 1750 the Jesuit Reducción de San Fernando del Río Negro was founded, only to be abandoned in 1773. The real colonization of the province began in 1870, and the town of Resistencia began to grow from 1878 onwards when the first Resistencia

Friulan immigrants arrived from northern Italy. The 2 km Puente General M Belgrano (General M Belgrano Bridge) crosses the Río Paraná to link Resistencia with Corrientes.

876

CHACO Resistencia is a modern city in the usual chess-board fashion with Plaza 25 de Mayo its focal point. Among the buildings of interest are

the Iglesia Catedral on the Plaza 25 de Mayo completed in 1898 with a few remarkable carrara marble statues. A feature of the town is the

C Accommodation in Resistencia Apart Hotels **

*** ** ** ** ** **

435600 fax

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444444

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2

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421330 422898

$F $G

2 2

AEKLPSTVY AEFPST

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420882 424657 427088 421978 422032 421412 424861 426062 425672 Cel.076847

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459719 428433

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(03722) 496268

ABCTY

Covadonga, Güemes 200 Fax 443444 Lemirson, Frondizi 167 Fax 422277 A.M.C.P.AP.CH, H Yrigoyen 83 ATECH Sahara, Güemes 160 Fax 422973 Colón, Santa María de Oro 143 Gran Hotel Royal, José M. Paz 297 Fax 424586 Lilian, 25 de Mayo 1341

ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY

Hotels ***

@

Colón, J.A. Roca 63

ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY AFY AEY

Residenciales A A A A B B B B • • • • •

Alfil, Santa María de Oro 495 LP Casa del Docente Resistencia, French 555 LPTY Hernandarias, Hernandarias 215 LP Marconi, Juan D. Perón 342 AKLPY Alvear, Santiago del Estero 143 L Bariloche, Obligado 239 L Celta, Avenida Alberdi 214 LP San José, Frondizi 306 L Aragón, Santiago del Estero 154 Don Bosco, Frondizi 339 Palace, Santa María de Oro 365 Santa Rita, Ave. Alberdi 311 Venecia, Ave. Italia 316

Motels

• Plaza, Ave. Rivadavia 444

Accommodation on Avellaneda Motels • El Colonial • O’Key • Status

Accommodation on RN 11 Motels • El Faro • Cadena de Oro • Don Juan, KM 1004

Accommodation on Isla del Cerrito

• Complejo Turístico Isla del Cerrito, ABEFLRY Capacity: 200 bunks, boat ramps, fishing and camping

877

$G/H 2

Resistencia

CHACO PROVINCES T

To Santa Fe and

To Formosa

SAN ROQUE

SAN BERNARDO DEL MONTE ALTO

11

1

2

AVE. C. AVALOS

HERNANDARIAS

16

CANGALLO

FORMOSA

ECHEVERRÍA

POSADAS

AVE. WILDE

AVE. BELGRANO

Plaza 9 de Julio DONOVAN

Plaza 12 de Octubre

LINIERS

Refer map Resistencia Centro

6

REMEDIOS ESCALADA DE SAN MARTÍN

LAVALLE

26

CATAMARCA

RIOJA

AVE. RIVADAVIA

LAPRIDA

CÓRDOBA

SAAVEDRA

AVE. PARAGUAY

47

AYACUCHO

DON BOSCO

BROWN GÜEMES

48

55

LÓPEZ Y PLANES 57

FRENCH

Plaz a Belg rano

58 P

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

ENTRE RÍ0S

CORRIENTES

SANTA FE

COLÓN

Plaza España

AVE. 9 DE JULIO

56

MITRE

CARLOS PELLEGRINI

JOSÉ M. PAZ

R.S. PEÑA

PUEYRREDÓN

AVE. SARMIENTO

H. YRIGOYEN

Plaza 25 de Mayo

M.T. DE ALVEAR

J.B.JUSTO

A . ILLÍA

OBLIGADO

AMEGHINO

AVE. RÓDRIGUEZ PEÑA

FRANKLIN

CERVANTES

FRONDIZI

AVE. 25 DE MAYO

SANTA MARÍA DE ORO 20

J.A . ROCA

PERÓN

VEDIA

SALTA

AVE. MORENO

JUJUY

MENDOZA

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO

NECOCHEA

AVE. ALBERDI 62

To Corrientes and Isla Cerrito

4

3

AVE. ITALIA C

N

ARBO Y BLANCO

MONTEAGUDO

59

SAN LORENZO

AVE. LAS HERAS

60 JOSÉ HERNÁNDEZ

AVE. VELEZ SARSFIELD

61

To Barranqueras and Corrientes

many statues in the streets, promoted by the Fogón de Los Arrieros. Barranqueras is located on a bluff on the western bank of the Río Paraná near its junction with the Río Negro. Only 18 km from Resistencia, it is the port and now virtually a

Resistencia

suburb of Resistencia. It has 43 000 inhabitants. Regular buses run between the two towns. Most industry is located in Barranqueras. From the bridge over the Río Negro it is a short walk to the ruins of San Buenaventura del Monte Alto.

878

CHACO •

Key to map C T

Municipalidad (Town hall) Bus Terminal

D Camping

3 Accommodation

•

3 Residencial Hernandarias 62 Albergue Hindu Club

4 Eating out 1 2 4 48 56

Restaurant Casablanca Confitería San Martín Restaurant Fogón del Lolo Cafetería La Nueva Biela Bar Recuerdos

Restaurants • Casablanca, Avenida C. Avalos 36. Parrilla • Charly, Brown 71. International cuisine • Chino, J.D. Perón 244. Chinese cuisine • El Pescador, Güemes 150 • Fogón del Lolo, Avenida Alvear 750 • Kebon, Don Bosco 120. International cuisine • La Bohemia, Corrientes 366. Piano bar • La Fundación, Corrientes 398 • Por La Vuelta, Obligado 33 • Vía Libre, Pellegrini 155. Parrilla • Zoo Rut, Güemes 345 Pizzerías • Catalina Pizza, Güemes 129 Cafeterías and confiterías • Bar Americano, A. Frondizi 139 • Bar Recuerdos, Arturo Illía 345 • Café de La Ciudad, Pellegrini near H. Yrigoyen • Drink’s, Güemes 183. Bar • Kilo Café, Santa María de Oro 184

47 Ruta Disco 58 Centro Cultural 60 Peña Nativa Martin Fierro

9 Sights

Museo Histórico Ichoalay Museo de Ciencias Naturales del Chaco Fogón de Los Arrieros Museo del Hombre Chaqueño Museo Regional de Antropológia

0 Services

20 Shopping Viejo Terminal 26 Paraguayan consulate

Also included is Isla del Cerrito.

B Tourist information •

•

Parque 2 de Febrero municipal camping ground, corner of Avenida Lavalle and Avenida Avalos, 2 km from the city center; tent hire

E Eating out

5 Entertainment

6 55 57 59 61

Dirección de Parques y Ecología, Remedios de Escalada 46 @ 421428 fax

Dirección de Turismo de La Provincia del Chaco, Santa Fe 178 @ 423547 fax 430023; e-mail: [email protected]. Open 08:00–20:00 Dirección de Turismo Municipal, J.A. Roca 20 @ 458289

R Air services from Resistencia

Aeropuerto Internacional “José de San Martín” is 7 km north on RN 11 near Villa Barberan. The airport bus to Resistencia airport costs $2.50; the airport bus to Corrientes costs $4.00. • ALTA, Necochea 229 @ 438699 ° Catamarca, Córdoba, Formosa, Tucumán, Mendoza, San Juan, Salta, Tartagal, Asunción (Paraguay), and Punta del Este (Uruguay); 1 daily Mon–Fri ° To Reconquista, Rosario, Santa Fe; 2 daily Mon–Fri • Austral, A. Frondizi 99 @ 45550/53 fax 446802 ° To Buenos Aires 2 daily Mon–Sat and 1 service on Sundays; you can also board flights in Corrientes • Líneas Aéreas Privadas Argentina, Pellegrini 100 @ 430201 ° Buenos Aires; 3 weekly Direct flights to Buenos Aires take 11 2 hrs • Southern Winds, Güemes 251 @ 443300; e- mail: [email protected]

879

Resistencia

CHACO PROVINCES S Buses from Resistencia

The bus terminal is on Avenida Soberanía Nacional near Avenida MacLean about 15 blocks north of Plaza 25 de Mayo @ 461098/460907. Bus companies operating from bus terminal • Águila Dorada @ 462717 ° Charata via Presidente Roque Sáenz Peña • A17 Expreso Brújula @ 460902 • A29 Central Sáenz Peña, @ 460907 ° Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña via Presidencia de La Plaza, Quitilipi, and Machagai; 4 daily • A37 Expreso Ciudad de Posadas, local 7 @ 460931 • A47 COTAL @ 460903 ° Mendoza via Catamarca, La Rioja, San Juan; Tues, Thurs, Sat • A71 TATA ° Salta via Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña and Monte Quemado • A93 Giroldi @ 460907 ° General José de San Martín; 3 daily • A100 Kurtz • A112 El Tala @ 461104 • A132 Expreso Singer @ 465043 • A141 La Nueva Godoy, @ 460902/3 ° General José de San Martín via Margarita Belén and Colonia Benítez; 4 daily ° Pampa del Indio; 1 daily • A164 La Veloz del Norte ° Salta via Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña and Monte Quemado; 2 daily • A177 Empresa Martignoni • A187 Nuestra Señora de La Asunción • A193 Puerto Tirol @ 435170 ° Colonia Benítez; 6 daily ° Las Palmas via La Leonesa; 3 daily ° Margarita Belén; 9 daily ° Puerto Bermejo via General Vedia; 2 daily ° Puerto Velaz: 3 weekly • A277 La Nueva Estrella @ 460907 ° Gancedo via Las Breñas, General Pinedo, and Charata; 2 daily • Pourcel @ 464304 ° Pampa del Indio via General José de San Martín, Presidencia Roca; 1 daily • Empresa El Pulqui y La Tostadense @ 460113 Bus companies with own terminal • Bula Tour, J. A. Roca 43 ° Isla del Cerrito; 2 Mon, Wed, Fri; 1 daily Sat, Sun • A23 CACORBA Ave. Islas Malvinas @ 463528 • A61 El Norte Bis S.R.L., San Lorenzo 455 @ 426866 ° Isla del Cerrito: 2 daily ° Tucumán via Santiago del Estero; 1 daily • A155 La Estrella, Ameghino 768 @ 431251 ° Capitán Solari; 4 daily, 06:30–20:00 ° Fuerte Esperanza via Castelli; 1 daily ° Hermoso Campo; 1 daily ° Laguna Limpia via Colonia Elisa, Capitán Solari; 2 daily ° Las Garcitas; 2 daily ° Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña; 5 daily

Resistencia

880

CHACO Buses from Resistencia – continued ° Santa Sylvina via La Tigre, La Clotilde, San Bernardo, Villa Angela; 1 daily ° Villa Angela via Colonia Baranda, Cote Lai, Charadai, Samuhu; 1 daily ° Villa Berthet; 1 daily ° Villa Río Bermejito via Castelli; 1 daily • A157 La Internacional, Santa María de Oro 366 @ 426924 ° Salta via Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña and Monte Quemado Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fares Services Añatuya 2 daily Asunción (Paraguay) 5 daily Buenos Aires $47.50 6 daily Clorinda $14.30 5 daily Córdoba $42.50 1 daily Corrientes $2.00 12 daily Formosa $8.80 10 daily Mar del Plata 2 weekly Posadas 4 daily Presidencia Roque.Saenz Peña $5.90 6 daily Puerto Iguazú 2 daily Reconquista 2 daily Rosario 4 daily Salta $45.00 1 daily Santa Fe $25.50 5 daily Santiago del Estero $25.00 4 daily Termas de Río Hondo $25.70 2 daily Tucumán $33.00 2 daily

Duration Company A155, A277 6 hrs A17, A112, A141, A157, A187 15 hrs A17, A61, A154, A157, A187, A193 16 hrs A17, A112, A141, A155, A157 13 hrs A23, A155 1 hour Municipal bus 2 3 hrs A17, A112, A141, A157, A193 A37 A37, A61, A100, A177 2 1 2 hrs A29, A61, A155, A157, A277 A37, A100 A61, A157 A37, A61, A100, A157, A187 16 hrs A29, A164 A37, A61, A157, A187 11 hrs

12 1 2 hrs A155 14 hrs A155, A164, A277

•

I Post and telegraph

La Nueva Biela, Güemes 695 near of Córdoba • San Martín, Ave. Avalos 180 • Venecia, Ave. Avalos 595 • Zan En, A. Frondizi 15 Eating out in Barranqueras Restaurants • El Viejo Pilsen, Ave. San Martín 760 • La Morocha, Diag. Eva Perón 210

• •

• • • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Avenida Sarmiento 101 near H. Yrigoyen Telephone: Telecom Argentina, J.B. Justo 214

L Financial

• •

n Entertainment • •

A47, A155, A277

•

Casino Gala, J.D. Perón 249 Peña Nativa Martin Fierro, Ave. 9 de Julio 699 Tierra, Santa María de Oro 251. Dancing Luna, Santa María de Oro 235. Dancing Ruta Disco, Ayacucho 120. Dancing Theater: Centro Cultural Alternativo (Club Progreso), H. Yrigoyen 402

•

Banco de la Nación Argentina, Ave. 9 de Julio 101 @ 447722 Banco de Boston, Frondizi 132 @ 429433. ATM Cambio El Dorado, J.M. Paz 50 @ 435680. Traveler’s cheques Citibank, Ave. 9 de Julio 146 @ 437900

M Services and facilities

•

Laverap, Vedia 39

N Clubs and cultural centers

•

881

Club Social, Avenida Alberdi 295. Visitors welcome for meals

Resistencia

CHACO PROVINCES AVE. BELGRANO

AVE. WILDE

5

N

LINIERS

DONOVAN

9

7 8

11

13

18 A

SALTA

STA . MARÍA DE ORO

B

MITRE

23 21 22

24

Plaza 25 de Mayo

AVE. ALBERDI

25

30

JOSÉ M. PAZ 50 49

E

39 38 40

51

GÜEMES $

52

53

H. YRIGOYEN

36 37

J.B. JUSTO

35

AVE. 9 DE JULIO

FRONDIZI

31 32 42

33

43

46

41 44

45

DON BOSCO

D

$

I

AVE. SARMIENTO

BROWN

A . ILLÍA

OBLIGADO

27 28

19

CORRIENTES

17 16

PUEYRREDÓN

SANTA FE

15

J.A . ROCA

VEDIA

J.D. PERÓN

12

14

R. E. DE SAN MARTÍN

M.T. DE ALVEAR

AVE. 25 DE MAYO

NECOCHEA

10

34

C. PELLEGRINI 54

LÓPEZ Y PLANES

PEÑA R E S I S T ER.S. NC IA CENTRO P Visas, passports •

U Motoring

The road north to Formosa and on to Puente Internacional Ignacio de Loyola, on the border with Paraguay, is sealed.

Paraguayan consulate, Rioja 26 @ 426853. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–12:00

Resistencia

882

CHACO Key to map A B D E I P $

Catedral Gobernación Provincial (Government) Correo Argentino Telecom Argentina Dirección de Turismo de La Provincia del Chaco A.C.A. Banco de la Nación Argentina

3 Accommodation 7 22 23 30 35 42 43 49

Residencial Marconi Residencial Celta Hotel Colón Hotel A.M.C.P.AP.CH Hotel Lemirson Hotel ATECH Sahara Hotel Covadonga Residencial Bariloche

4 Eating out

9 Restaurant La Fundación 10 Restaurant La Bohemia 13 Restaurant Chino

16 17 27 28 32 33 34 36 39 41 44 45 46

Cafetería Kilo Café Cafetería Lyberty Club Social Restaurant Por La Vuelta Catalina Pizza Restaurant Charly Restaurant Zoo–Rut Bar Americano Cafetería Zan-En Restaurant El Pescador Café de La Ciudad Restaurant Vía Libre Restaurant Kebon

5 Entertainment 12 15 21 31

7 Tour operators and car rental 5 37 40 51

Localiza Rent a Car Firenze Viajes Chacotur Viajes S.R.L. Turismo Caacupé

9 Sights

14 Museo Policial Carlos Chiessanova 19 Primer Museo Histórico de Fotografía de la Provincia del Chaco 25 Museo de Bellas Artes

0 Services

Casino Gala Disco Luna Disco Tierra Cafetería Drink’s

8

6 Airline offices

11 Línea Aérea ALTA 38 Austral 53 Líneas Aéreas Privadas Argentina

18 24 29 50 52 54

Dirección de Parques y Ecología Laverap Galería Alberdi Citibank Casa Silver Cambio El Dorado Fundación Chaco Artesanal

a Sport

Service stations • A.C.A., Avenida 9 de Julio near Italia @ 426166. Maps available • Shell, Avenida 25 de Mayo 300 near R. E. de San Martín • Y.P.F., Güemes block 300 Car rental • A1 Rent a Car, S.J. del Monte Alto 224 @ 420070 • Localiza Rent a Car, J.A. Roca 460 @ 439255/56. Cheapest four-seater is $60.00 a day plus taxes and insurance and $0.37 per kilometer

•

Golf Club (18 holes), Saavedra near Carlos Corsi @ (03722) 427674 corner of Avenida 9 de Julio and Cartero Ramírez. Take bus 1 from the corner of J.A. Roca and Santa María de Oro, opposite the cathedral; it’s the same bus that goes to Barranqueras. Ask the driver to let you off near the Y.P.F. service station

p Sightseeing

•

Y Shopping

The main shopping streets are Juan D. Perón, Antártida Argentina, and 25 de Mayo. Major shopping centers are Galería Alberdi, Ave. Alberdi 140; the former downtown bus terminal in Santa María de Oro is now also a shopping center. • Barrio Toba, RN 16 near new bus terminal. Reached by bus 7 from Plaza 25 de Mayo. The main attraction is the Cooperativa de Artesanos where original Toba artifacts are sold • Casa Silver, J.M. Paz 217 • Fundación Chaco Artesanal, Pellegrini 272

•

883

Sculptures in the streets of Resistencia. More then 200 of these work of arts are randomly distributed throughout the center of town. The biggest concentrations are in Ave. Sarmiento (Bordoneando outside house no 120), Pellegrini, Frondizi, Arturo Illía (Figura en La Playa outside house no 199), Juan B. Justo (La Música outside house no 42) and Brown. This is a remarkable display of art in a town virtually on the edge of civilization Parque 2 de Febrero, Avenida Los Avalos 1000 is located 3 km north of the town center on the banks of the Río Negro. A monolith was erected here to mark the spot where the first 60 Friulan families from northern Italy disembarked to settle in the Resistencia

CHACO PROVINCES

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•

•

•

•

•

•

province. The park has 36 ha (89 acres) and houses a sports complex complete with amphitheatre and a hostel Plaza 25 de Mayo is the focal point of town. Of interest are the many sculptures — sixteen altogether — made of bronze, wood and cement and cast iron Museo Histórico Ichoalay (Ichoalay Historical Museum), Donovan 425, in the Escuela Normal Sarmiento, @ 424200. Of particular interest are the references to the Friulan immigration. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–12:00 and 16:00–18:00 Museo del Hombre Chaqueño (Museum of the Chaco Man), Arturo Illía 655 @ 423175. On display are objects used in the daily life of the early chaco colonists in particular farm implements, indigenous handicrafts and myths and legends of the chaco. Upstairs is the Archivo General de la Provincia Museo de Ciencias Naturales Augusto Schulz (Augusto Schulz Natural Science Museum), Pellegrini 802 @ 423864 on the premises of the defunct Estación Ferrocarril Francés. Good overview of the flora and fauna of the chaco. There is a piece of meteorite from the Campo del Cielo on display here. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–12:00 and 14:00–19:30, Sat 17:00–20:00 Fogón de Los Arrieros, Brown 350. This private museum has memorabilia and art objects of great value on exhibit. There is also a bar which is open Wed–Fri in the evening 21:00–23:00. The museum is open Mon–Sat 08:00–11:30 Museo de Antropológia “Juan Martinet” (Juan Martinet Antropology Museum), Avenida Las Heras 750 on the premises of the Universidad Nacional del Nordeste, Humanities section. Focuses mainly on archeology in particular on the failed early Spanish settlements. The museum exhibits details of the discovery and progress of excavations of the Concepción del Bermejo archeological site. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–12:00 and 16:00–21:00

Resistencia

•

•

Museo de Bellas Artes (Fine Arts Museum), Mitre 150. Open Tues–Fri 08:00–12:00 and 18:00–20:30 Museo Policial “Comisario Carlos Chiessanova” (Carlos Chiessanova Police Museum), Julio A. Roca 233. Police history and cases go back to the time when Chaco Province was a territory. The collection is now a national trust. Interesting Primer Museo Histórico de Fotografía de la Provincia del Chaco (First Historic Museum of Provincia del Chaco Photographies), Mitre 119. Photographs of the chaco past

s Excursions Tour operators • Chacotour Viajes S.R.L., Juan B. Justo 147 @ 422058 • Turismo Caacupé, José M. Paz 77 @ 432710 • Turismo Island Beach, Don Bosco 359 @449377; e-mail: islandre@infovia. com.ar Excursions • Corrientes: Across the Río Paraná. The Puente General M. Belgrano (General M. Belgrano Bridge), nearly 3 km long, crosses the river, joining Corrientes with Resistencia. There is a splendid view from the Avenida Costanera General San Martín in Corrientes. Regular bus services. See also Corrientes on page 902 • Makallé: 67 km westwards on RN 16. During last century a string of fortifications were built across the chaco to secure the land to the south from incursions by Chaco Indians. The remains of such a fort can still be seen in the vicinity of Makallé • Isla del Cerrito: This island is located at the junction of the Río Paraná with the Río Paraguay, 55 km east; 20 km are sealed the rest is a good dirt road. The island is a provincial reserve, covering 12 000 ha (29 652 acres). The main attraction is the extensive beaches. Its climate is subtropical and can be visited all year round. At the big road intersection just before the General M. Belgrano bridge to Corrientes go straight on to Puerto Antequeras. From here onwards the

884

CHACO road deteriorates but is still passable, following the Riachuelo Antequera and Carpincho for 20 km until it crosses the Cerrito bridge. From the bridge it is a further 17 km to the vacation resort, where the road is sealed once more. After the War of the Triple Alliance, the island was occupied by Brazilian forces for 10 years, before it was finally surrendered to Argentina. It is very picturesque with its typical chaco flora. Various guest houses, with a total of approximately 400 beds, cater for the influx of tourists, especially during September, the month of the dorado fishing season, organized by the Federación Chaqueña de Pesca. Guest-houses usually charge per bed. Across the Río Paraguay is Paraguay, which can be visited from Isla del Cerrito; although this is not an official border crossing day excursions are possible. Ferries cross the Río Paraná daily to Paso de La Patria in Corrientes Province. It is possible to return via Paso

•

• •

885

de La Patria to Corrientes or continue to Posadas. There are two bus services daily between Resistencia and Isla del Cerrito in the main season, also accommodation and camping Puerto Bermejo is a small town with 1500 inhabitants, located 89 km north on the Río Paraguay. Here are the ruins of the Reducción de San Carlos del Timbó which was founded by the Jesuits in 1762. The town was abandoned when the Jesuits were expelled from all Spanish and Portuguese territories. It was re-founded in 1884 and was the starting point of an Argentine expedition to explore the chaco region along the Río Bermejo. Empresa Giroldi runs two services daily from Resistencia Parque Nacional Chaco: see page 870 Reserva Natural Estricta Colonia Benítez: 20 km north of town. If you just want to see native chaco animals at close range without traveling into remote areas this is the place to visit. Take the Margarita Belén bus

Resistencia

FORMOSA FORMOSA C Formosa HACO PROVINCES

Map of Formosa Province Clorinda ABCDLQS#sv Comandante Fontana S Formosa ABCDEnJKLMNQSRUTV#XYa Map opst Ingeniero Guillermo N Juárez ACSs 896 Stopovers C

Plate20 887 889 890 892 896

F

ormosa is located in the northern part of Argentina. It shares a border with Paraguay along the Río Pilcomayo and Río Paraguay. Chaco Province lies to the south, and Salta to the west. It has a population of 425 000, the largest cities being Formosa and Clorinda.

Formosa has a tropical climate. The area suffers from extended dry periods, up to six months of each year, at the end of which the rain comes down like a tropical deluge. To make good agricultural use of the land is therefore difficult. The groundwater is saline, and in summer the rivers dry up and water has to be carted to the townships from the nearest source. In summer the temperatures can rise to 50°C (120°F). The province still consists partially of impenetrable forest where pumas, jaguars, alligators, and deer roam. The flora is very colorful, and includes many varieties of orchids.

Due to “progress”, however, some of the former quebracho forests have given way to large cotton plantations. Although the inhabitants refer to the interior as “monte” (mountain), the whole province is mostly flat.

National parks and reserves

•

•

886

Parque Nacional Río Pilcomayo, near Clorinda, is certainly worth a visit. There are very few tourist facilities there, other than camping areas. See page 889 Reserva Natural Formosa in the extreme west of the province near Ingeniero Juárez. Difficult to reach; see page 896

FORMOSA •

Bañado La Estrella, located on the Río Pilcomayo. Tropical paradise with lots of colorful birds but difficult to reach; once there was access only by canoe. Best accessed from Clorinda with a tour operator The remnants of the original chaco tribes live in this province. They are

still hunters and gatherers and are relatively untouched by European civilization. Formosa is also the name of the capital, some 1200 km north of Buenos Aires. The best time to visit Formosa is during the winter months of June, July, and up to mid-August.

CLORINDA

Clorinda Population: 40 000 Postal code: 3610 @ area code: (03718) Distances From Formosa: 120 km north on RN 11 • From Asunción (Paraguay): 46 km east •

C

lorinda was founded by Manfred Hertelendy in 1900 on the site where Fuerte Fotheringham had previously existed, on the Río Alto Paraguay.

B Tourist information

It is a cosmopolitan mixture of European, Indian, and Paraguayan influences. Everything of importance in Clorinda is on Avenida San Martín, the hub of the town. Most of the male population seems to be engaged in money-changing operations! From the town center it is only 3 km north to the Puente Internacional Ignacio de Loyola which spans the Río Pilcomayo. The junction of Río Pilcomayo and Río Paraguay is 13 km south, near Puerto Pilcomayo. The Río Alto Paraguay is shallow and has many islands which are continuously shifting after the floods. Clorinda is a border town, with road and ferry services to and from Paraguay. It is the main center of a cotton, banana- and rice-growing area.

There is no municipal tourist information bureau in Clorinda.

C Accommodation

Hotel Embajador, San Martín 166, opposite the bus terminal ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 421148 • Hotel Clorinda, Avenida San Martín 1237 AHY @ 422807 A Residencial San Martín, 12 de Octubre 1150 LP @ 421211 $H 2 B Residencial 12 de Octubre, 12 de Octubre L B Residencial Ortega Libertad 1213 L @ 421593 $H 2 ***

Accommodation in Puerto Pilcomayo • Estancia Colonia Bouvier has six rooms. They offer full board, boat trips on the river, photographic safaris, horse-riding, bird-watching

D Camping

•

A Festivals •

Banana festival: Early October

887

Club Pira Yagua, at the junction of Río Pilcomayo and Río Paraguay. Turnoff is at the Puente Internacional San Ignacio de Loyola AEFGL; 50 tent sites, open all year

Clorinda

CHACO PROVINCES S Buses from Clorinda

The bus terminal is at the southern end of town, off San Martín. Companies with local destinations • Empresa Tigre-Salomón, corner of L Fernández and Concio, runs buses to General M. Belgrano, 142 km west on RN 86 which is intermittently sealed as far as Espinillo. This bus also goes past the Parque Nacional Río Pilcomayo • A185 Empresa Navarro ° Laguna Naick Neck • A local bus goes from the town center, past the Puente Internacional, to a recently established district of Clorinda every half an hour • A municipal bus to Puerto Pilcomayo and to the ferry across Río Paraguay to Ita Enramada, leaves from corner of Buenos Aires and San Martín every forty minutes. Ita Enramada in Paraguay is virtually a suburb of Asunción • From Clorinda you can take the municipal bus to the border and alight 200 m before the passport control point. On the Paraguyan side you can catch another micro to Asunción Bus companies with long-distance services • Empresa Dos Fronteras SRL, Ave. Santa Cruz near Las Piedras @ 423721 • A23 Cacorba • A34 T.A. Chevallier Paraguaya • A61 El Norte Bis, San Martín 987 @ 422716 • A141 Empresa Godoy SRL, San Martín 175 @ 421110/421607 • A157 La Internacional • A187 N.S. de La Asunción Long-distance services • • • • • •

Asunción Buenos Aires Córdoba Formosa Resistencia Santa Fe

$7.00 $68.00 $58.00 $7.50 $16.00 $42.00

4 daily 3 daily 4 weekly 8 daily 5 daily 3 daily

A34, A141, A187, A34, A141, A157 17 hrs A23 2 hrs A23, A61, A141, A157, A185 5 hrs A15, A23, A61, A141, A187 A61, A141, A157, A187

L Financial

# Water transport

The streets are full of money changers but only cash US dollars are exchanged. Banks do not accept travelers’ checks but good rates for these can be obtained in Asunción in Paraguay. Currencies can also be exchanged on the bridge at the Paraguayan border checkpoint.

There is a ferry service from Puerto Pilcomayo in Argentina to Ita Enramada in Paraguay, across the Río Paraguay. As an alternative to the road trip to Asunción, take the bus to Puerto Pilcomayo (a one-hour trip costing $0.80), and there board the ferry to Ita Enramada. From Ita Enramada take a bus to the center of Asunción (a 11 2-hour trip). One of the best hotels in Asunción is not far from the landing pier.

Q Border crossing

The Argentine border control is directly on the Puente Internacional Ignacio de Loyola, only about 100 m from the municipal bus stop. The municipal buses go past the border control. The border is open twenty-four hours a day. You can walk across the bridge to the Paraguayan customs. A bus leaves from Clorinda every hour or so for Asunción.

Clorinda

s Excursions

•

888

Formosa: The trip south on RN 11 mostly passes through flat country, with the landscape continually changing from swamps to lagunas to little farms and back to swamps. Along the road there are palm trees. Although along the main road very

FORMOSA

•

•

little of the original chaco forest is left, there is a lot of birdlife, including some curious long-necked white birds strutting around among the cebu-like cattle grazing in the fields. The farmers in the district get their water from wells sunk into the ground which are checked at least once a year by the government. The road is mostly elevated to prevent it from being flooded during the rainy season; it is sealed and in perfect condition. It is permitted to camp along the road. Just before entering the city of Formosa there is a road check. After crossing the Río Formosa, you enter the city itself. Formosa is built in low-lying country which has been built up to avoid flooding. See also Formosa on page 890 Misión San Francisco Solano de Tacaaglé: 115 km west. Follow RN 86 west. The turnoff to the Mission is 23 km past Espinillo. If you miss the first turnoff there is another 6 km further on. The road is intermittently sealed until Espinillo but becomes patchy afterwards. Nearby are Toba Indian villages which may be visited. Empresa Tigre runs bus services. This trip can be combined with a trip to Parque Nacional Río Pilcomayo; see below Asunción in Paraguay: An interesting round trip can be made by first taking the road transport via the Puente Internacional San Ignacio Loyola (San Ignacio Loyola International Bridge) and then returning by ferry via Ita Enramada and Puerto Pilcomayo. The road to Asunción is sealed all the way. Take either an Empresa Godoy or an Empresa La Internacional bus from the terminal in town, or catch a local bus from the

•

center of town to the bridge. Walk across the bridge and then take another bus to Asunción. The trip takes approximately two hours and is 50 km long. Shortly before Asunción, you cross the Río Paraguay over a long bridge Parque Nacional Río Pilcomayo: Situated on the Río Pilcomayo which forms the border between Argentina and Paraguay, approximately 50 km west of Clorinda. The 60 000 ha (148260 acres) plain is intersected with waterways which are forever changing after each rainy season. The annual rainfall is 1200 mm, average temperature is 24°C (78°F). The park’s wildlife is the most representative of the Formosan wetlands, including colorful toucans and small monkeys, pumas, and the yacaré or south American alligator. The carpincho is a type of otter which spends most of his time under water. Unfortunately the park does not include the whole of the Laguna Blanca with its many varieties of water-birds. There are a lot of caranday palms, with white fronds and trunks. Due to the lack of funds, there are no personnel to look after this large tract of land, but there is a park information center. Inside the national park is a camping area with 55 tent sites; toilets, places to swim and fish, and a boat ramp where boats can be hired. The summer temperatures can reach 40°C (106°F). The best time to visit is between March and November. Empresa Tigre, corner of L Fernández and Concio, runs five services a day to Laguna Blanca, and then as far as General M. Belgrano and Comandante Fontana. The first bus leaves Clorinda at 06:15

COMANDANTE FONTANA

Comandante Fontana Postal code: 3620 @ area code: (03716) Distance from Formosa: 176 km north-west on RN 81

889

Comandante Fontana

CHACO PROVINCES

C

omandante Fontana was founded in 1912. It is located on RN 81 which is the main route connecting Formosa Province with Salta and Jujuy Provinces.

S Buses

This would be the best spot for a break in the rather monotonous journey to or from Salta, as there are some tourist facilities: residenciales, gas stations, and bus services.

Buses run regularly to Formosa and Ingeniero Guillermo N Juárez.

FORMOSA

Formosa Population: 175 000 Postal code: 3600 @ area code: (03717) Distance from Buenos Aires: 1180 km north on RN 11

F

ormosa, the provincial capital, is located on the Río Paraguay, in a floodprone alluvial plain some 240 km north of Corrientes.

Formosa was founded in 1879 by Comandante Luis Fontana, whose ashes lie in the cathedral. The name “Formosa” was derived from early Spanish descriptions of the river which takes a sweeping bend (“vuelta hermosa”) where Formosa is now located. The climate is tropical and the vegetation is lush. There are two rainy seasons, one from February to May and a short one from August to September. Summers are very hot and humid. Mosquito nets are used all year round. Many Toba Indians have chosen to live on the outskirts of town rather than in the swampy plains. The Iglesia Catedral Nuestra Señora del Carmen dates from 1896; it is built in neo-Gothic style. Visit the Galería de Gobernadores de Formosa in the Casa de Gobierno in Avenida 25 de Mayo near Belgrano. Here the paintings of all past governors from 1879 onwards are exhibited.

Formosa

A modern timber mill cuts the 100 000 or so tons of red quebracho logs coming from the forests to commercial sizes. The river rises during the months of June, July, and August.

A Festivals

•

July 16: Nuestra Señora del Carmen

B Tourist information

• •

Dirección Provincial de Turismo, Fontana near Uriburu @ 420442 fax Dirección de Fauna, José M. Uriburu 1531 @ 427576/420442/426465 fax

D Camping

•

Club Caza y Pesca, Río Paraguay, on the southern outskirts of the city, 3 km from center; 35 camp sites, boat hire

E Eating out Restaurants • Baviera, Fontana 866 • Cascote, Avenida 25 de Mayo 293 • Claper, Belgrano 640 • Club Náutico, in the port • Club Patria, Saavedra 453. Parrilla • Club Sarmiento, San Martín 1338 near Salta 890

FORMOSA C Accommodation in Formosa

During July and August it is advisable to make bookings for better class hotels. Apart Hotels • Casa Grande, Ave. González Lelong 185

@

431573

Hotels

Internaciónal de Turismo, San Martín 759 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 430935 fax *** Portal del Sol, Junín 527 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 427945 fax ** Colón, Belgrano 1068 ACEFGJKLPSUVY Fax 426547 @ 420719 fax ** Plaza, J M Uriburu 920 AEFGJLPUV @ 429527 ** San Martín, 25 de Mayo 380 AEFGJLPUV @ 426769 * Hostal del Rey, B. Mitre 98 AELPV @ 420894 * Réal, Belgrano 1 AELPV @ 427851 @ 435990 • Río Hotel, Rivadavia 1102

****

Residenciales A A A A A •

Colonial, San Martín 879 LP España, Belgrano 1032 LP MG (Rivas), Belgrano 1395 near Ayacucho LP Réal, Belgrano 17 LP Torino, Moreno 705 LP Seti, Brandsen 37

Accommodation near bus terminal

• Hotel El Estranjero, Ave. Gutniski 2660

• • •

• •

@

452276

$F $F $G $G $H

2 2 2 2 2

$H $H $H $H $H

2 2 1 2 2

Post office: Correo Argentino, 9 de Julio 920 Telephone: Telecom, Saavedra 656

L Financial

There are no cambios in Formosa. • Banco de Galicia y Buenos Aires, Avenida 25 de Mayo 160. ATM

M Services

•

Sport equipment: Misterix, España 318

N Clubs

• •

n Entertainment • • •

426346 429348 420499 427851 426103 435901

2 2

I Post and telegraph

El Fortín, B Mitre 606 El Mesón, Saavedra 469. Parrilla El Pájaro Loco, 25 de Mayo block 700 near Fontana • El Rancho, Avenida 25 de Mayo 690. Parrilla • La Cascada, Avenida 25 de Mayo 345. Parrilla • Raices, Avenida 25 de Mayo 65 • San José, Fontana 836 • Ser San, 25 de Mayo 280 near Moreno Fast food • Condorito, Uriburo 160 • Danni, Uriburu 224 • Don Carlos, Saavedra 384 • El Cuñado, Avenida 25 de Mayo 175 •

@ @ @ @ @ @

$E/F $F

Asociación Italiana, 25 de Mayo 333 Asociación Español, Moreno 661

Q Border crossing

Casino Provincial, Hotel Internacional de Turismo; open 22:00–04:30 Cine Colón, 25 de Mayo 349 Disco Weekend, Belgrano 545 Oxido Pub, H. Yrigoyen 141

The passport control is open from 07:00 – 18:30 to coincide with the ferry service. The passport control is located on a moored boat from which you board the ferry to Isla Alberdi in Paraguay.

891

Formosa

CHACO PROVINCES To Balneario Banco Marina

RÍ

FORMOSA

Villa Alberdi

O PA RA GU

PA

R

U AG

AY

GE

IN NT

A

N

AR

AY

2

MORENO 36 34 33 32

31

35

.M R A

38

37

JOSÉ M. URIBURU

29

30

DEAN FUNES

39 PADRE PATIÑO 41 40

42

BRUNELLI

To Clorinda

45

AVE. 25 DE MAYO

43

E

LUIS SAMBRINI

B. MITRE

44 EVA PERÓN ESTRADA

47 46 LUIS J. FONTANA

50 D

48 Plaza San Martín

AVE. INDEPENDENCIA 11

AVE. 9 DE JULIO

49 51

E. SENES

F. BOSCH

AVE. DR. LUIS GUTNISKI

AVE. DE MADARIAGA

SARMIENTO

J.M. AMOR

J.A . ROCA

CÓRDOBA

FORTÍN YUNKA

LIBERTAD

JUJUY 11 52 PADRE GROT TI CEMETARY

To Resistencia

Formosa

892

23

24

AYACUCHO

RIVADAVIA 27 28

25

22

SALTA

21

$

20

4

FOTHERINGHAM

ESPAÑA

18

SAAVEDRA

26

PRINGLES

MAIPÚ

JUAN JOSÉ SILVA

CORRIENTES

16

JUNÍN

AVE. GONZÁLEZ LELONG

15

H. YRIGOYEN

7 8 9 M. BELGRANO 19

JOSÉ DE SAN MARTÍN B 11 13 14 12 10

BRANDSEN

C

6

5

AVE. 25 DE MAYO

3

E

JÍ

A

SANTA FE

To Balneario Isla de Oro

ENTRE RÍOS 1

FORMOSA Key to map A B C D E H I $ T

Iglesia Catedral Nuestra Señora del Carmen Casa de Gobierno (Provincial Government) Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Hospital Tourist information Banco de Galicia y Buenos Aires Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 7

11 12 13 14 15 16 23 24 34 38 40 45

Hotel Internaciónal de Turismo Residencial Colonial Residencial Seti Residencial España Hotel Colón Apart Hotel Casa Grande Residencial Réal and Hotel Réal Hotel Río Hotel, Residencial MG Residencial Torino Hotel San Martín Hotel Hostal del Rey Hotel Portal del Sol

4 Eating out 1 4

6 9 20 21 26 28 29 30 32 33 36 39 42 44 46 47

Restaurant Club Náutico Restaurant Club Sarmiento Restaurant Claper Restaurant Raices Fast food El Cuñado Fast food Condorito Club Caza y Pesca Restaurant Cascote Restaurant Ser San Fast food Danni Fast food Don Carlos Asociación Español Asociación Italiana and Restaurant La Cascada Restaurant Club Patria and Restaurant El Mesón Restaurant El Fortín Restaurant El Rancho Restaurant San José Restaurant Baviera

5 Entertainment 8 18 22 37

•

27 Turismo de Castro 31 Localiza Rent a Car 41 M & M Turismo

9 Sights

10 Museo Histórico Regional

0 Services 2 3 5 25 35 48 49 50 52

Ferry to Isla Alberdi in Paraguay Defunct F General M Belgrano rail station Transporte San José Aníbal Bibolini Sport equipment Misterix Mercotour and Minibus Fede Minibus Independencia Empresa Giroldi Dirección de Fauna

T Trains

F.C. General M Belgrano station is on the corner of Avenida San Martín and Avenida 25 de Mayo, near the port. The Río Paraguay runs behind the station building. There are no more passenger services.

U Motoring

•

7 Tour operators and car rental

Car rental • A1 Rent a Car, Dean Funes 1020 @ 431721 • Localiza Rent a Car, Maipú 399 @ 434163

El Pacú airport is 10 km south of town. All flights to Buenos Aires land in Aeroparque Jorge Newbery. • Austral Líneas Aéreas, 25 de Mayo 603 @ 429392 • LAPA, España 102 local 5/6 @ 435979 Destinations • Buenos Aires (11 2 hrs); 1–2 daily; Austral, LAPA • Corrientes (1 2 hr); 4 weekly; Austral • Posadas (3 4 hr); 1 weekly; Austral

•

19 LAPA 43 Austral Líneas Aéreas

Casino Provincial Disco Weekend Oxido Pub Cine Colón

R Air services

•

6 Airline offices

51 Hotel Plaza

# Water transport

The 150 km road north to Clorinda and Asunción, via the new toll-bridge over the Río Paraguay, is sealed all the way The 170 km road south to Resistencia is sealed for most of the way and is as straight as an arrow. See Excursions below Avenida 25 de Mayo becomes RN 11 Sur; Avenida 9 de Julio becomes RN 11 Norte A.C.A., Ave. Gutniski 3025 @ 452600

A ferry to Isla Alberdi in Paraguay leaves at 07:00 daily; the trip lasts half an hour and costs $1.00.

Y Shopping

• •

893

Aníbal Bibolini, Rivadavia 343. Leather goods La Casa de Artesanía Aborígines, 25 de Mayo near San Martín at the harbor entrance. This is an Indian cooperative which sells Indian artefacts such as bows and arrows and baskets. They also give information on

Formosa

CHACO PROVINCES S Buses from Formosa

The new bus terminal is on Avenida Antártida Argentina near Avenida Gutnisky Bus companies operating from bus terminal • A23 Cacorba, @ 450988 • A34 T.A. Chevallier Paraguaya • A61 El Norte Bis, San Lorenzo 4137@ 430500/426866 • A112 El Tala @ 433353 • A141 Godoy S.R.L. Moreno 1050 @ 430819 • A187 N.S. de La Asunción • A193 Puerto Tirol @ 451410 • A276 El Cometa, @ 451352 • Güemes S.A. @ 433500 ° General Belgrano via Parque Nacional Río Pilcomayo ° Herradura Bus companies with own terminal • A9 Empresa Atahualpa, Padre Patiño 969 @ 420030. To Salta—a rough trip) • A185 Empresa Navarro, Alberdi near Corrientes @ 423598 ° Laguna Naick-Neck via Clorinda; 3 Mon–Fri 05:30–20:00, 1 at weekends • Giroldi S.R.L. Ave. 9 de Julio 244 @ 431700 ° Las Lomitas via Ibarreta; 7 daily, 00:30–19:00 ° Embarcación (Province Salta) via Pirané, Comandante Fontana, Pozo del Tigre (“Tiger Well”), Laguna Yema, and Ingeniero Guillermo N. Juárez; 1 weekly, 17 hrs • Mercotour, Ave. G. Lelong 899 @ 431469 • Minibus Fede, Ave. G. Lelong 875 @ 424430 • Minibus Independencia, Independencia 17 @ 435704 • Transporte El Tigre, corner of Déan Funes and Salta • Transporte San José, San Martín 450 ° Herradura via Tatané Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Asunción Buenos Aires Clorinda Córdoba Corrientes La Plata Resistencia Rosario Salta Santa Fe

Fares $13.50 $55.00 $6.50 $50.00 $8.50 $55.80 $40.00

services 4 daily 6 daily 8 daily 5 weekly

Duration Company A34, A141, A187 18hrs A34, A61, A112, A141, A187, A193 A61, A141, A185 15hrs A23 A34, A61, A112, A141, A187, A193 A34 9 daily A34, A61, A112, A141, A187, A193 A34, A61, A112, A141, A187, A193 Thurs. and Sat 21 hrs A9 3 daily A34, A61, A112, A141, A187, A193

The museum was formerly the residence of Don Ignacio Fotheringham, the first governor of the province. It has been converted to house the museum but its colonial character has been left untouched. Exhibited are memorabilia relating to the foundation of Formosa, indigenous artefacts, and furniture of the foundation period

visiting Toba Indians around Ingeniero Guillermo N Juárez

a Sport • •

Club Caza y Pesca, Rivadavia 417 Club Náutico Formosa, in the harbor @ 426160

p Sightseeing •

Museo Histórico Regional (Regional Historical Museum), 25 de Mayo 84.

Formosa

894

FORMOSA s Excursions Tour operators • Turismo de Castro, Ave. 25 de Mayo 277 @ 430408 • M&M Turismo, 25 de Mayo 723 @ 434208 Excursions • There is an archeological site at Fortín Soledad 360 km north-west of Formosa. Here a burial site going back 1500 years is being excavated. Contact Professor Alberto Rex González at the Escuela de Bellas Artes, Avenida 9 de Julio near España. Another archeological site is near El Colorado best reached on a better road from Resistencia in neighboring Chaco Province via General J. de San Martín • Resistencia: The road south passes through flat swampy country where there is plentiful bird-life and cebu-like cattle can be seen grazing. There is a police checkpoint at Tatané, at the junction of RP 1, which goes to San Francisco de Laishi, an Indian community. At the turn-off to RP 5 to the Río Paraguay, there is a small camping spot, but without facilities. At Puerto Vélaz on the Río Bermejo, just before the bridge which crosses into Chaco Province, there is a small roadside inn. The river is 100 m wide at this point and it floods in the rainy season. The river water is usually not fit for human consumption, so the locals use water from bores which must reach a depth of 30 m before they reach good water. Further south the road passes through palm groves and through Margarita Belén, and then enters the outer suburbs of Resistencia. See also Resistencia on page 876 • Isla Alberdi in Paraguay: If you have a multiple-entry visa, you can make a trip from the port to this duty-free island; you cannot continue on into Paraguay. The first launch to Isla Alberdi leaves at 07:00 and last one at 18:00. The last launch returns from Isla Alberdi at 18:30 • Herradura: 40 km south. Take RN 11 for 31 km until the turn-off at Tatané. From here it is another 12 km to the

•

•

•

•

895

b e a c h o n t h e R í o P a r a g u a y. Herradura is one of the oldest settlements in Formosa Province. The A.C.A. has a camping spot there and Club de Vialidad has also camping facilities. Herradura is an exotical tropical spot and outside town monkeys can be seen. Empresa San José, at San Martín 450, runs a bus service here. Boat ramp San Francisco de Laishi: 63 km south- east on RN 11 and RP 1. To visit this Franciscan Indian mission take RN 11 south for 31 km to Tatané. From here follow RP 1 east for another 43 km on a dirt road. The old sugar mill which was constructed by the Franciscans is still operational and the original church and some of the older buildings are still preserved. Visit the small museum with Indian artefacts. Take a bus leaving Formosa at 06:00 or 13:17 for General J de San Martín in Chaco Province Colonia General Fotheringham: Some 140 km south-east on the Río Paraguay, across from the Paraguayan town of Pilar. Take RN 11 for 72 km until Puerto Vélaz on the Río Bermejo. Just before the bridge which crosses the Río Bermejo there is the turn-off onto RP 9, a dirt road following the river most of the way to its junction with the Río Paraguay. The surroundings are luxuriantly tropical. The provincial government is planning to build a tourist complex here Estancia y Reserva de Animales Salvajes Guaycolec (Guaycolec Wild Animal Farm): 16 km north on the Río Paraguay. Attached is a camping ground for 35 tents Pirané : 115 km north-west on RN 81. The road goes almost as a straight line through swampland alternating with forested areas. This is still a pioneer town. In the forests around town grow huge quebracho trees. 30 km north of Pirané is Reserva Centro Biologico Pilagás III. , an animal research station of 1250 ha (3090 acres); all animals roam free and include pumas, carpinchos (a type of otter), yacarés, and tapirs. Giroldi runs buses as far as Pirané or still better by tour operator from Formosa Formosa

CHACO PROVINCES

INGENIERO GUILLERMO N JUÁREZ

Ingeniero Guillermo N. Juárez Postal code: 3636 @ area code: (03711) Distance from Formosa: 460 km west on RN 81

I

ngeniero Guillermo N Juárez (commonly known as Juárez) is located in the far west of Formosa Province, some 60 km from the border with Salta Province. Since the discovery of oil north of the town, near the border with Salta in the district of Ramón Lista, the pace in Juárez has accelerated. A pipeline has been laid from the oil fields to Juárez, which has as a result become an oil town. Juárez leans more towards Salta Province than to Formosa.

A Festivals • •

s Excursions

•

Fiesta Aniversario de La Fundación (Foundation Day Festival): July 21 Fiesta Patronal de Nuestra Señora de La Merced (Festival of the Patron Saint Our Lady of Mercy): September 24

C Accommodation •

Motel Ingeniero Juárez (A.C.A.), Belgrano near RN 81 AEF @ 420060

S Buses

There are two weekly services between Salta and Formosa, stopping at Juárez. • Empresa Giroldi has one weekly service between Embarcación in Salta Province and Formosa

Reserva Natural Formosa: Approximately 48 km south on RP 39 which is a dirt track and best reached by 4WD. The reserve of 10 000 ha (24 710 acres) is in a semi-arid zone. Precipitation is 600 mm and average annual temperature is 22 °C (64 °F). The Río Teuco, Río Teuquito, and Río Bermejo are its boundaries. Main attraction is the tatú carreta, a giant armadillo which is in danger of extinction; there are also pavas de monte, a type of turkey. The flora is represented mostly by thorny plants and cacti such as the cardón but also has algarrobos blancos and tala trees

STOPOVERS

Stopovers Las Lomitas Nearest town described: Ingeniero Guillermo Juárez some 160 km west on RN 81 (page 896) altitude: 128 m

Ingeniero Guillermo N. Juárez

•

896

Hotel Lomitas, @ (03715)42137

Güemes

570

As the biblical name implies, this region is located between two great river systems: the Río Uruguay in the east and the Río Paraná in the west. It is a fairly flat area with a few elevations known as cuchillos (“knives”), the exception being the north-eastern part which is an area of low hills. There is abundant rainfall evenly distributed during the year; in the far north-east this falls as subtropical monsoon. Apart from the spectacular Iguazú Falls, perhaps Mesopotamia’s most striking feature is the cultural and “civilizing” influence the Jesuits had on the region. Their ruined towns, some of them still surrounded by subtropical rainforest, bear witness to a great social experiment: converting local Indian tribes to Christianity, and teaching them skills without destroying their identity. Their work was immortalized in the film The Mission. 897

CORRIENTES CORRIENTES M Corrientes ESOPOTAMIA

Plate 22 901 902 903 909 910 911 913 914 915 916 917 919 919 921 922 923 924 926 928 929 931

C

Map of Corrientes Province Bella Vista ABCDEJKSUap Corrientes ABCDEnJKLMPRSUVWY#apq Map rs Curuzú Cuatiá CDEnJKSUW Empedrado CDEJKMSUf Esquina ACEJKMSW Goya ABCEJKRSUW#aes Itá Ibaté CEJKSUae Itatí ACEMSUae Ituzaingó BCDEJKSU#aes Map La Cruz CEJKSU Mercedes CDEJKSUWapqs Monte Caseros CBEJKSU# Paso de la Patria BCDEnJKSU#aes Map Paso de los Libres BCDEnJKLNPQRSTUYpqs Map Reserva Natural del IberáCDSsv Santo Tomé ACEJKSUW#epqs Yapeyú CEJKSUpr

orrientes Province is located in the north-eastern corner of Argentina. The capital of the province, also called Corrientes, is located in the north-western corner on the Río Paraná.

Corrientes is almost entirely surrounded by rivers. In the east the Río Uruguay forms a border with Uruguay and with Brazil. In the west the Río Paraná forms a border with

Santa Fe Province and with Chaco Province to the north-west; it then turns eastwards near the city of Corrientes in the extreme north-west of the province and

898

CORRIENTES forms a border with Paraguay to the north. To the north-east, between the Río Paraná and the Río Uruguay, is the brief border with Misiones Province; and to the south, between the same two rivers, the border with Entre Ríos Province. Corrientes covers an area of 88 000 square km (34 000 square miles) and a population of 850 000. Most of the population lives in towns. The landscape is flat, and a large part of the interior is water-logged.The biggest swamps surround the lake–swamp complex of Esteros del Iberá, which normally covers some 12 000 square km (4633 square miles) but expands during the wet season. Some areas consist of lagunas, home of the yacarés or Argentine caymans. This estero and its outlet, the Río Corrientes, divide the province into two sections. Those with an adventurous spirit can visit the local wildlife. Many South American species such as coatis, white and black eagles, deer, and multicolored parrots can still be seen here in their natural habitat. The streams and lakes abound in tropical fish such as pejerrey, dorado, and surubí, all good eating fish. The area is an angler’s paradise, and it is being promoted by the provincial tourist office as a Ruta de las Aventuras or “Adventure Trail”. The western and northern part of the province along the Río Paraná is promoted as the Circuito Turístico de los Ríos or “Tourist River Circuit”. Here fishing enthusiasts from all over the world congregate to try for surubí, pacú, and dorado of immense size, as well as other game fish. Best known is the fishing competition held in Paso de la Patria. The sandy banks of the Río Paraná can reach

60 m. The most interesting part of the Río Paraná is south of Corrientes near Manuel Derqui. The few mountains in the north are a continuation of the Sierra del Imán in neighboring Misiones Province. The eastern part of the province along the Río Uruguay is known as the litoral or coast, and with its many white sandy beaches and the wide river it looks like a coastal area, the only difference being that the water is not salty. This is the most historically interesting part of the province, still showing the early incursions of the Jesuits in the sixteenth century. The most important mission settlements were Yapeyú, Santo Tomé, and La Cruz, all near the Río Uruguay. They decayed after the expulsion of the Jesuits in 1768. Yapeyú was the birthplace of the great son of Argentina, Don José de San Martín. Some of the biggest post-Independence battles were fought in this area. This part of the province along the Río Uruguay is the most historically interesting part of Corrientes—it is promoted by the provincial tourist office as the “Circuito Ruta de los Jesuitas” or “Jesuit Circuit”. Corrientes was involved in the War of the Triple Alliance in 1868–1870 between Argentina, Uruguay, and Brazil on one side and Paraguay on the other. The wet season is during March and April, the driest months being July and August. Annual rainfall can reach 2000 mm, but this drains off quickly and is not uniformly distributed throughout the year. The prevailing wind is northerly and northeasterly. If the wind swings around to a southerly direction it usually

899

Corrientes

MESOPOTAMIA brings a sharp drop in temperature. The climate is humid for most of the year, and the province is well-forested, with palm trees following the many waterways. The southern part is cool and can be cold in winter, and is mostly used for pastoral grazing. The weather in the northern part is mild. Corrientes is a major producer of rice, tea, tobacco, soy beans, citrus fruit, and cotton. The original inhabitants of Corrientes were the Abipone, Guaycurue, and Guaraní. The Guaraní still make up a large proportion of the population, speaking their own language, but they are gradually being absorbed into the mainstream of Argentine life. During Juan de Ayola’s epic journey upriver, a sub-branch of the Guaycurue people, who were excellent river navigators, attacked his convoy, and in punishment he destroyed 250 of their boats. In the area of the Iberá lived the Caracaras people who established small villages. Among the many peoples that formerly lived in Corrientes Province, the Guaraní were most amenable to European influences. At the university in Corrientes the Guaraní language is still taught. The General Belgrano bridge over the Río Paraná links the city of Corrientes with Resistencia in Chaco Province. A huge dam construction project is being undertaken with Paraguay on the Río Paraná near Ituzaingó. While construction is going on the management conducts sightseeing trips from Ituzaingó. Once the dam is completed the

Corrientes

Saltos del Apipé (Apipé Rapids) will disappear and the lake created will go past Posadas in Misiones Province. At the same time sluices will enable large vessels to go up to Foz do Iguaçu in Brazil. During January and February Corrientes Province celebrates the most colorful carnivals in Argentina. In some of the waterways a carnivorous fish called palometa is found. This is a relative of the piranha and has become a real pest. The cause of its proliferation is the indiscriminate slaughter of the yacaré which kept the palometa population at manageable proportions. The yaguarete or jaguar has become rare, but in the swampy areas there is an abundance of carpinchos, anteaters, and tapirs. From 1855 onwards a vigorous immigration policy was pursued to attract European settlers. First among the new arrivals were some French settlers who founded a small colony near the capital. Next came the German Swiss who founded Palmira.

Tourist attractions Worth a visit

& Corrientes Worth a detour

& Yapeyú Of interest

& Itatí & Santo Tomé & Ituzaingó

Mercedes is a key town for visiting the Esteros del Iberá.

900

CORRIENTES

BELLA VISTA

Bella Vista Population: 23 000 Postal code: 3432 @ area code: (03777) Altitude: 68 m Distance from Corrientes: 140 km south on RN 12

F

ounded in 1825, Bella Vista is located directly on the Río Paraná. It is aptly named “Beautiful View” for its panoramic views over the mighty river flowing beneath sandy cliffs for about 30 km. Dorado fishing attracts many visitors. South of Bella Vista is Punta Cuevas, where during the War of the Triple Alliance an allied squadron attacked a Paraguayan battery in 1865 at a location now marked with a large commemorative wooden cross. •

Bella Vista is the center of an orange growing area. Fishing trips can be made from here. On the banks of the Río Paraná are municipal baths.

• •

A Festivals •

I Post and telegraph

Fiesta Provincial de la Naranja (Provincial Orange Festival): October and November

• •

B Tourist information •

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Mercado Municipal (Municipal market) local 4 @ 471094

The bus terminal is on Entre Ríos near La Rioja. • Empresa Taragüi, Salta 1156 @ 451323; regular services to Goya and Corrientes • El Rápido RP 27 @ 451175 • TATA SACI, RP 27 @ 451725; runs services to Corrientes, Curuzú Cuatiá, Esquina, and Mercedes

Hotel El Triángulo, Córdoba AEFGJLPUV @ 451028 $H 2 • Hotel J R, J.M. Estrada near Salta @ 450303 A Residencial Costa Azul, Paraná near Córdoba LP @ 451645 • Residencial Los Laureles, Roca 1576 @ 450432 B Hospedaje San Jorge, Salta near Cortada L • Complejo Polideportivo Municipal, RP 27. Capacity 60 bunks **

U Motoring

•

Service station: El Triángulo, RP 27 near Buenos Aires

a Sport

•

D Camping

Camping Cruz de los Milagros, Avenida Canale near Tucumán. Capacity: 80 tents. Located in Parque Cruz de los Milagros on the Río Paraná AFL, also camper vans

Launch hire: El Dorado, corner of Buenos Aires and 25 de Mayo

p Sightseeing

•

E Eating out •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Corrientes near Catamarca Telephone: Telecom, Córdoba near Catamarca

S Buses

C Accommodation

•

Cafetería El Faraon, Santa Fe near P Gloster. Pizzería Cafetería Halloween Pub, Mendoza near Santa Fe Cafetería Las Vegas, RP 27 near San Luis. Show

Parque de las Garzas, historical site. A memorial here commemorates the repelling of several incursions of Chaco Indians between 1821 and 1826

Restaurant El Transportista, RP 27 near Avenida A. Mórtola. Parrilla 901

Bella Vista

MESOPOTAMIA

CORRIENTES

Corrientes Population: 270 000 Postal code: 3400 @ area code: (03783) Altitude: 55 m Distances From Buenos Aires: 1074 km north on RN 12 • From Resistencia: 22 km south-east over the Belgrano Bridge •

C

orrientes, the capital of Corrientes Province, is located on the Río Paraná, here about 2 km wide, some 50 km south of the junction with the Río Paraguay. It is connected by the Puente Belgrano with the city of Resistencia in Chaco Province. The city has retained much of its colonial charm and many fine mansions are still preserved. The tourist office is located in one of these renovated colonial mansions. In 1527 the master mariner Sebastián Caboto reached the present site of Corrientes, and described the seven channels with the associated cascades in the river caused by rock formations. In 1588 the capital was founded here by Juan Vera y Aragón

Key to map A B C

D E G H I P $ T

Catedral Casa de Gobierno Palacio Municipal (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Mercado Central Hospital Dirección Municipal de Turismo A.C.A. Banco de Galicia Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 2 17 18 20 21 42 43 44 46

Hotel de Turismo Residencial Avenida Residencial Robert Hotel Hostal del Pinar Hotel Gran Guaraní Hotel Orly Hotel Gran Corrientes Hotel Sosa Hotel San Martín Residencial S.O.S.

4 Eating out

3 Restaurant El Recreo 15 Cafetería Trieste

Corrientes

24 26 29 30 32 33 34

as San Juan de Vera de las Siete Corrientes. Temperatures in summer can rise to 40°C (104°F) and go occasionally as low as 0°C (32°F) but winters are generally pleasant.

Sociedad Italiana Restaurant Casino Español Jockey Club Corrientes Restaurant Las Espuelas Restaurant Champignon Pizzería Los Pinos Restaurant Rancho Grande

35 Cafetería Hipocampo 36 Cafetería Peatonal 40 Restaurant Sociedad Libanesa 45 Restaurant Sosa

5 Entertainment 4 5 23 25

Casino Provincial Disco Metal Cine Colón Teatro Oficial Juan de Vera 28 Disco Ka Ko Si 39 Cafetería Exocet. Pub 41 Disco Sadway

6 Airline offices

31 LAPA 37 Austral Líneas Aéreas

902

7 Tour operators and car rental 11 Turismo Taragüi 13 Localiza Rent a Car 19 Avis Rent-a-Car

9 Sights 6

Iglesia de la Cruz de los Milagros 7 Museo de Ciencias Naturales “Amado Bompland” 8 Iglesia y Convento de la Merced 10 Museo Histórico Colonial Old Cabildo 14 Museo de Bellas Artes Dr. Juan Ramón Vidal 27 Museo Fray José de la Quintana

0 Services

12 Urban transport terminal 16 Fería de la Artesanía de la Provincia 22 Fishing gear: Unger e Hijos 38 Dirección de Turismo de la Provincia

CORRIENTES Prices in Corrientes are slightly higher than in Resistencia, and there is less accommodation in the lower

brackets. It is a lively city with an active night life which comes to bloom

To Puente Belgrano and Resistencia

CORRIENTES P O V IN

C

IA S C O TE IN AC N V O H IE R C R P EL R O D C IA

R

PADRE BOGAT TI

Rí oP

DON BOSCO

ar an á

PAGO LARGO E. ABAD

CHACO

Parque Chamba Cua

DE LA VEGA

HELMAN

MISIONES

ENTRE RÍOS

3

4

E

2

AV

J.B. ALBERDI

1

.C

I

O S TA

SAN LUIS

N E R SAN MARTÍN

5

BUENOS AIRES 6

B. PARERA

Plaza L a Cruz

8

7

Plaza 25 de Mayo

N

A

TUCUMÁN R. CASTILLO

9

SALTA BELGRANO

B

13

D

G

SAN JUAN

J.R. VIDAL

VELAZCO

12 TORRENT

E

39

Plaza Torrent

SAN LORENZO A

40

Plaza Cabral

41 42

SANTA FE AVE. GOB P FERRÉ

LAVALLE

3

AVE. 3 DE ABRIL

To Paraná and T

V. GÓMEZ

38

JUAN TORRES

37 36

CATAMARCA

31

32

PLACIDO MARTÍNEZ

34 35 33

27

26 P

FRAY JOSÉ DE LA QUINTANA

CÓRDOBA

C 25 DE MAYO

30

$

25

24

CARLOS PELLEGRINI

29

17

15 18

9 DE JULIO

28

JUNÍN

H. YRIGOYEN

SAN MARTÍN

MENDOZA

H SEGOVIA

BOLÍVAR

RIVADAVIA

PIO XII

16

14

21 23 22

19 20

12

11

10

GONZÁLEZ

LA RIOJA

MORENO

H. CIVILES

44

Parque Mitre

43 45

AVE. ESPAÑA

5

46

12

JUJUY

To Posadas

To San Luis del Palmar

903

To

Corrientes

MESOPOTAMIA D Camping

in a very colorful Carnival during February.

Camping on RN 12 south • Puente Pexoa, capacity: 80 tents and 30 caravans.

A Festivals

The carnaval is one of the most colorful in Argentina and attracts many visitors.

E Eating out

The largest concentration of restaurants and other food outlets is on Avenida Costanera. Restaurants • Casino Español, Mendoza 530 • Champignon, Pellegrini 1268. Italian cuisine • El Recreo, Entre Ríos 675. Show • Las Espuelas, Mendoza 847. Parrilla • Rancho Grande, Yrigoyen 1347. Parrilla • Sosa, Avenida España 950. Italian cui

B Tourist information • • • •

Dirección de Turismo de la Provincia, 25 de Mayo 1330 @ 424565, fax 427200 Dirección Municipal de Turismo, C. Pellegrini 542 in Parque Cambucuá @ 423779 Dirección de Flora y Fauna, Avenida Costanera 99 @ 427626, fax 434865 A.C.A., 25 de Mayo near Mendoza

C Accommodation in Corrientes Hotels **** **** *** *** *** *** *

Hostal del Pinar, P. Martínez 1098 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 429726 @ 436100 Gran Guaraní, Mendoza 970 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 424620 e-mail: [email protected] @ 433800 De Turismo, Entre Ríos 650 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 433174 @ 429112 fax Gran Corrientes, Junín 1559 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 421344/6 fax Orly, San Juan 867 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 4227388 @ 427248 San Martín, Santa Fe 955 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 461061/3 Sosa, H. Yrigoyen 1676 AELPV @ 428856

Residenciales A A A B B

Avenida, Avenida 3 de Abril 563 Necochea, Héroes Civiles 1896 S.O.S., H. Yrigoyen 1771 Belgrano, Alte Brown 2619 Robert, La Rioja 415

LP LP LP L LP

Cabañas

• El Solar, Alvear 565

@ @ @ @ @

463212 426506 460330 461788 434996

@

491280

@ @ @ @

469045 fax 442166 450319 442199

@ @

425046 464325

$F

2

$E/F

2

$F $F

2 2

$F $F $G

2 2 2

$H

2

$F $G

2 2

Accommodation near long-distance bus terminal Hotels

Caribe, Avenida Maipú 2596 AEFGJLPUV Pavón, Avenida Maipú 2600 AELPV • La Ruta, Avenida Maipú • Hospedaje Brasil, Avenida Maipú 2400

** *

Accommodation RN 12 near intersection to Santa Ana ** **

Cabañas Costa Paraíso, Also camping Motel Cadena de Oro, KM 949

Corrientes

ABCEFGHJLPUV ABCEFGJLPUV

904

CORRIENTES •

bus to Resistencia airport which leaves an hour and a half before each flight. Airlines • Austral Líneas Aéreas, Junín 1301 @ 423918/424647 • LAER, Colón 450 @ 421442 • LAPA, 9 de Julio 1261 @ 431628 Destinations • Buenos Aires ($150.00; 1 1 4 hrs); 2 daily • Posadas (3 4 hr ); 1 weekly

Sociedad Italiana, Pellegrini 1139. In an old colonial mansion. Restaurant • Sociedad Libanesa, San Lorenzo 1341 • sine • Yapeyú, Vera 1352. International cuisine Pizzerías • Los Pinos, Catamarca 1202 Cafeterías • El Parral, Junín 822. Fast food • Exocet, Junín 1428. Bar • Hipocampo, Junín 1342. Tables on sidewalk • Peatonal, Junín 1390. Bar • Trieste, corner of San Juan and Quintana. Ice-cream parlor

U Motoring

Most night clubs are open only from Thursday to Sunday. • Casino Provincial, Entre Ríos 659. Open Tues–Sun 22:00–03:00 • Disco Ka Ko Si, Mendoza 1239 • Disco Metal, Junín 777 • Disco Sadway, Junín 1511

Service stations • Esso, Tucumán near Moreno • Shell, H Yrigoyen near Perú Car rental • Avis Rent-a-Car, Hotel Gran Guaraní, Mendoza 970 @ 423090 • A1 Rent a Car, refer Resistencia • Localiza Rent a Car, San Lorenzo 1095 @ 434444. Cheapest four-seater is $60.00 per day plus IVA and insurance and $0.37 per km

I Post and telegraph

# Water transport

n Entertainment

• •

Post office: Correo Argentino, San Martín 1098 Telephone: Telecom, Catamarca 1369

When the the river is deep enough, usually only between April and November, the passenger boat Ciudad de Rosario, run by Flota Fluvial del Estado, calls once a month on its way to Asunción in Paraguay from Buenos Aires. Check in Buenos Aires.

L Financial •

Banco de Galicia y Buenos Aires, Córdoba 870. ATM

Y Shopping

M Services and facilities

The main shopping streets are San Juan and Junín, a pedestrian mall between San Juan and San Lorenzo. • Fería de la Artesanía de la Provincia, La Rioja 455

Fishing and camping gear • Náutica Corrientes, La Rioja block 700 near of 9 de Julio. Also hires kayaks • Unger e Hijos, Mendoza 822

a Sport

P Visas, passports

•

The police headquarters are on the corner of Buenos Aires and Quintana in what was once the cabildo where Corrientes declared its independence from the Argentine Federation.

• •

R Air services

•

Aeropuerto Gobernador Piragine Niveyko is 8 km east of the city center. The airport bus leaves Corrientes one hour before each flight. There is also a

905

Corrientes Golf Club, at the intersection of RN 12 and road to Santa Ana KM 1.5 @ (03783) 424372. 18 holes Racing: Jockey Club Corrientes, Mendoza 969 Tennis: Corrientes Tenis Club, corner of Avenida Artigas and San Martín Boating and sailing: Club de Regatas Corrientes, in Parque Mitre @ 424602

Corrientes

MESOPOTAMIA S Buses from Corrientes

The urban transport terminal for local buses and colectivos to Resistencia is at the corner of Costanera and Salta. The long-distance bus terminal is on Avenida Maipú block 2600 about 4 km south of the city center. Municipal buses 6 and 11 travel between the two terminals every 20 minutes. Local bus companies and services • A272 Empresa Río Uruguay ° Gobernador Virasoro via Ituzaingó • A342Albizzatti, @ 442147 ° Goya • A343Empresa San Antonio ° Caá-Catí ° Manantiales ° Mburucuyá • A35 Empresa Paso de la Patria ° Paso de la Patria ($1.80) via Santa Ana; 2 daily ° Paso de los Libres via Mercedes • A352 Expreso Ciudad de Corrientes ° San Luis del Palmar Long-distance bus companies • A33 T.A. Chevallier ° Bella Vista (21 2 hrs) via Esquina, Goya, and Santa Lucía; 1 daily ° Esquina ($8.20; 43 4 hrs) via Saladas (11 2 hrs), Bella Vista (2 hrs), Santa Lucía, and Goya ($7.70; 31 2 hrs); 2 daily • A37 Expreso Ciudad de Posadas @ 440366 ° Santo Tomé ($14.30; 6 hrs) via Ituzaingó ($8.80; 4 hrs); 1 daily • A47 COTAL • A61 El Norte Bis • A71 Central El Rápido/TATA @ 442159/442850 ° Curuzú Cuatiá ° Esquina ($8.20) via Bella Vista (13 4 hrs), and Santa Lucía; 2 daily ° Mercedes ($8.40; 4 hrs)) via Saladas (11 2 hrs), San Roque, and Chavarría; 4 daily ° Mercedes (4 hrs) via Empedrado (1 hour), Saladas (11 2 hrs, and San Roque; 1 daily ° Paso de los Libres ($12.80); 4 daily • A75 El Serrano • A79 Empresa El Zonda SRL, @ 457008 ° Concepción; 1 daily ° Itatí; 1 daily ° San Miguel via Saladas; 1 daily • A97 Empresa Itatí ° Itatí ($2.60); 8 services daily • A100 Empresa Kurtz • A112 Empresa Tala @ 446348 ° Curuzú Cuatiá ($11.90) via Mercedes ($8.40); 3 daily ° Esquina; 3 daily ° Goya (31 2 hrs); 3 daily ° Itatí ° Mocoretá • A132 Expreso Singer, @ 446023 • A137 Flecha Bus ° Paso de los Libres via Mercedes

Corrientes

906

CORRIENTES Buses from Corrientes — continued • A157 La Internacional @ 446685 • A177 Martignoni • A193 Empresa Puerto Tirol Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Buenos Aires

Fares $40.00

Catamarca $45.00 Concordia Córdoba $41.80 Formosa Jujuy La Plata La Rioja Mendoza Paraná $23.10 Posadas $18.00 Puerto Iguazú Resistencia $2.00 Rosario $39.60 San Juan Santa Fe $32.00 Santiago del Estero $27.00 Tucumán $34.00 Termas de Río Hondo $26.40 Uruguaiana (Brazil)

Services 9 daily 3 weekly 5 daily 1 weekly 1 daily 3 weekly 5 daily 6 daily 3 daily 7 daily 3 weekly 5 daily

Duration Company 14 hrs A33, A37, A71, A79, A97, A112, A193 17 hrs A47 A112 A71, A75, A112 A112, A193 A97 A112 A47 A47 A33, A71 5 hrs A37, A79, A100, A177 A37, A79 3 hour local bus #22 4 A33, A37, A61, A71, A100 A47 10 hrs A33, A37, A61, A71, A193

4 daily 4 daily

9 hrs A47 13 hrs A79

4 daily

12 hrs

p Sightseeing •

Costanera: A walk along the Costanera gives a good view of the photogenic Río Paraná and the Belgrano bridge across the river. On the Costanera there is a memorial built by the Italian community to Sebastián Cabot, the navigator in the service of Spain who sailed up the Río Paraná and passed this point in 1527 Churches • Iglesia de la Cruz de los Milagros (Church of the Cross of Miracles), completed in 1828, houses a miraculous cross placed there by the city’s founder • Iglesia y Convento de la Merced (Church and Monastery of Our Lady of Mercy), 25 de Mayo near Buenos Aires. Construction began in 1628 and the present building is the result of successive alterations and additions. The remains of one of

•

•

907

A79 A112

Argentina’s heroes, Manuel Derqui, rest here Catedral, H Yrigoyen opposite Plaza Cabral, is in renaissance style. The tombs of famous Argentines like General Joaquín Madariaga (see Paso de los Libres on page 924) and Coronel Berón de Astrada are in the church. It is a national monument Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco (Franciscan Church and Monastery), Mendoza near Quintana. Founded in 1600, construction was started in 1607. From 1797 to 1854 the building housed the school of arts. In 1856 Italian Franciscans took over again and rebuilt the church in 1871. The organ came from France in 1879. Fray José de la Quintana — a famous cleric and intellectual — taught here. The entrance to the Museo Franciscano is here

Corrientes

MESOPOTAMIA •

Museums • Museo de Ciencias Naturales “Amado Bompland” (Amado Bompland Natural Science Museum), San Martín 849. This was the first museum in the city, founded in 1852. Exhibited are botanical, mineral, fossil, and insect collections; also a good collection of archeological artefacts found in the province • Museo Fray José de la Quintana (Father José de la Quintana Museum), Mendoza 450. Access is through the Convento de San Francisco in Mendoza. Religious exhibits and pieces from the Jesuit missions • Museo Histórico Colonial (Colonial History Museum), 9 de Julio near La Rioja. Inaugurated in 1894. Memorabilia of the War of the Triple Alliance, a numismatic collection and a large historical library • Museo de Bellas Artes Dr. Juan Ramón Vidal (Dr. Juan Ramón Vidal Fine Arts Museum), San Juan 634. The house of the former provincial governor who was a great art lover was converted into a museum. Mostly paintings of famous Argentine artists Public buildings and parks • Casa de Gobierno (House of Assembly), Salta near 25 de Mayo opposite Plaza 25 de Mayo. Constructed in 1886 • Casa del Gobernador e Intendante Juan B. Méndez (House of the Governor and Mayor Juan B. Méndez), Salta block 1300 near Moreno. This was the first government house and seat of provincial government in 1814. After that it was the school of arts and hospital during the War of the Triple Alliance and again in 1871 during the yellow fever epidemic. The building serves now as a comedor or dining room for students • Puente de la Batería (Battery Bridge), on the approaches to Parque Mitre. Constructed in 1851, this was the scene of heavy fighting during the war with Paraguay in 1865. From Parque Mitre there are good views over the Río Paraná • Monument to Sebastián Caboto, the first European to navigate the Río Paraná in 1529 Corrientes

•

•

• •

Palacio Municipal, 25 de Mayo near San Juan. Built in 1728, this was originally the seat of the Dominican order and probably the base of the Inquisition. The original chapel was dedicated to Pius V. Some of the original interior constructions remain. Since 1828 it has housed the public offices. The façade dates from 1882 Teatro Oficial Juan de Vera, San Juan 637. Opened in 1861. The present building dates from 1913. This is the home of the Orquestra de Cámara de la Provincia (Provincial Chamber Orchestra) Plaza 25 de Mayo. In the center is a statue of San Martín. Several houses in the vicinity have been declared historic monuments: Casa Mecca, an old colonial manor, on the corner of Quintana and Salta opposite the Plaza 25 de Mayo. It houses the Museo de la Artesanía Folklóricas (Folk Handcraft Museum) and Museo de Artesanía Guaraní (Guaraní Handcraft Museum). Also Casa Vedoya built in 1924 which houses the rectory of the Universidad Nacional del Noreste and the building housing the Escuela Sarmiento, built in 1895 Plaza de la Cruz has a statue to the doctors who perished during the yellow fever epidemic in 1871 Plaza Sargente Cabral, corner of Junín and H. Yrigoyen has a statue to the sergeant who saved General San Martín’s life during the battle of San Lorenzo

s Excursions Tour operators • Turismo Taragüi, La Rioja 730 @ 428004 fax Excursions • Santa Ana de los Guácaras: A seventeenth-century settlement with well-preserved colonial architecture is located 20 km east of town. The turnoff from RN 12 is at KM 12; on the way, there are many little lagunas amid lush vegetation. It was founded in 1660 by Franciscan monks after the destruction of Concepción de la Buena Esperanza when they

908

CORRIENTES

•

re-settled the Guácara Indians in Santa Ana. The seventeenth-century chapel built in honor of Santa Ana is a national shrine. Empresa Paso de la Patria runs 2 services daily and continues to Paso de la Patria Goya: South on RN 12. The trip passes mostly through flat low-lying country with swampy areas. There are many citrus orchards but much of the area is still shrub-covered. The road is sealed all the way to Paraná and there are long straight stretches. Some of the land has been turned into

•

• •

pine plantations. The bus calls at Empedrado, Bellavista and Santa Lucía Paso de la Patria: 38 km on RN 12. Fishing. It is served by Empresa Paso de la Patria buses. See Paso de la Patria on page 922 Itatí: 73 km on RN 12. Catholic shrine. See Itatí on page 915 Ituzaingó: 250 km on RN 12. You can visit the huge dam construction across the Río Paraná. See Ituzaingó on page 916

CURUZÚ CUATIÁ

Curuzú Cuatiá Population: 30 000 Postal code: 3460 @ area code: (03774) Altitude: 68 m Distance from Corrientes: 314 km south in RN 12 then south-east on RN 123 and south on RN 118

C

uruzú Cuatiá is located in the south-eastern part of the province at the intersection of RN 119 and RP 126. It was founded in 1810 by General Belgrano, one of the heroes of the War of Independence. This is old historic ground: Spanish conquistadores passed through first, Jesuit missionaries founded Guaraní settlements and later came the caudillos after independence from Spain was won. The Guaraní name aptly describes the location: road crossing. During colonial times this was a mail and merchandise exchange post. Of interest is the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Pilar, originally built in 1789; the present structure dates from 1890. In the vicinity of Arroyo Castillo is a placement of prehistoric fossils. Some 23 km west is the battlefield of Pago Largo where the armies of then independent Entre Ríos and Corrientes clashed, ending with the death of Genaro Berón de Astrada the commander of the Correntino army.

C Accommodation in Curuzú Cuatiá Hotels *** ** *

de Turismo, Duarte Hardoy 663 Fax 422039 Continental, Caa-Guazú 841 Avenida, B de Astrada 1699

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AEFGJLPUV AELPV

Residenciales

B Central, Rivadavia 646 L B Villanueva, Caa Guazú near Posadas L

909

@ @ @

422037 422038 422737 fax

@

422348

$G $G $G

2 2 2

$H

2

Curuzú Cuatiá

MESOPOTAMIA •

D Camping •

Municipal Curuzú Cuatiá, 8 km from town on the banks of the Río Curuzú Cuatiá. Restaurant, boat hire

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Caa-Guazú near D. Hardoy • Expreso Singer @ 422950 • TATA SACI, Caa-Guazú @ 423611 ° Buenos Aires (9 hrs); 1 daily; Expreso Singer, TATA ° Concordia (3 hrs) ° Corrientes: 3 daily ° Gualeguaychú (5 hrs) ° Mercedes (11 2 hrs); 1 daily

E Eating out Restaurants • Bar Colón, B. de Astrada 888. Show • Caru Pura, B. de Astrada 901 • Chabra, B. de Astrada 1614 • Club Social, B. de Astrada 725. Show • El Alamo, Las Heras near B. de Estrada. Pizzería • El Charleston, Rivadavia 780. Pizzería

U Motoring

n Entertainment •

Telephone: Telecom, B. de Astrada near Juan de Vera

•

Disco Prisión B. de Astrada 860

Service station: A.C.A., Berón de Astrada near R Perrazzo

I Post and telegraph •

Post office: Correo Argentino, B. de Astrada near Pueyrredón

EMPEDRADO

Empedrado Postal code: 3418 @ area code: (03783) Altitude: 69 m Distance from Corrientes: 52 km south on RN 12

T

he Fuerte Santiago Sánchez was built in the seventeenth century against the marauding Chaco Indians. Later a small settlement developed on the banks of the Río Empedrado, which was wiped out by the Chaco Indians in the eighteenth century. A new settlement grew about 1806 around a chapel with an image of the Señor Hallado carved of local wood by Guaraní Indians. Empedrado was officially refounded in 1836 by General Pedro Ferré.

The town is situated on the eastern bank of the Río Paraná. It has retained its colonial character, enhanced by window gratings on many of the colonial mansions. Nearby are beaches which, despite the number of tourists, remain uncrowded. Most visitors come here to try dorado fishing. The river runs here through abrupt sand hills. Most streets are unsealed. A small Museo Histórico Municipal is in B. Mitre

Empedrado

near Sarmiento with memorabilia of the War of the Triple Alliance. On Laguna Sati the Jesuits installed hydraulic water pumps, most likely for one of their estancias although none was found or recorded. Early this century European royalty used to spend the winter months here in a house overlooking the Río Paraná. Empedrado is the centre of a citrus and rice growing region.

910

CORRIENTES •

C Accommodation

Telephone: Telecom, B. Mitre

Hotel Panambí, Lavalle ACDEFGJKLPRTUVY @ 491148 fax $G 2 ** Cabañas El Solar, Alvear 565 @ 491280 fax * Hotel Rosario, B. Mitre 1246 AEFLPV @ 491130 $H 2 A Residencial La Casona, Fanfarria Alto Perú 331 LP @ 491545

M Services and facilities

D Camping

The bus terminal is in B. Mitre; regular services to Corrientes. • Goya (11 2hrs); 2 daily; Central El Rápido/TATA • Saladas; 1 daily; Ciudad de Corrientes

***

•

Boat hire and fishing equipment • El Doradito, Balneario Municipal • Luciano Blanco, B. Mitre 1264 • Casa Molina, General Paz 450

S Buses

Municipal, Gerónimo Marello on the Río Paraná. Capacity: 400 tents and 100 caravans. Restaurant El Doradito, boat ramp and boat hire

E Eating out •

U Motoring

•

El Pájaro Loco, Sarmiento near Belgrano

Service station: Esso, Piraginé near RN 12

I Post and telegraph •

Post office: Correo Argentino, B. Mitre 1184

ESQUINA

Esquina Population: 15 000 Postal code: 3196 @ area code: (03777) Altitude: 40 m Distances from Corrientes: 330 km south on RN 12

E

squina is located on the Río Corrientes just before its junction with the Río Paraná. To the north is mostly swamp. It was founded in 1785. In the wake of the battle of Pago Largo it was destroyed, but was rebuilt in 1846 during the government of Joaquín de Madariaga.

E Eating out

Esquina is the center of a citrus and cotton growing area. In the swamp areas some estancias are raising buffaloes. Esquina is a fishing resort, well known for its dorado, surubí, and pacú species. Along the rivers are extensive beaches and in the delta are islands with lush vegetation.

• • • • •

I Post and telegraph

A Festivals •

Restaurant La Industrial Equinense, B. Lamela 665 Restaurant Petit, Avenida Costanera near puerto Pizzería El Tío Enrique, Sarmiento 373 Pizzería María López, San Martín 400 Cafetería La Perfección, B. Mitre near Lamela

•

Fiesta Nacional del Pacú, Fishing festival held at Easter

•

911

Post office: Correo Argentino B. Mitre 820 Telephone: Telecom, 25 de Mayo 701

Esquina

MESOPOTAMIA C Accommodation in Esquina Cabañas ** *

Hotels *** *** **

Baumgartner, Serrano Soto 539 German spoken Irupé Parque, San Martín 588 Boat hire Eque Porá, General Velasco 555

Residenciales A A A A

@

460213

$G

2

@

460153

$G

2

@

460580 fax

$G

2

AEFGJLPUV

@ @

460676 fax 460374

$G $H

2 2

LP LP AELP LP

@ @ @ @

460748 460909 460066 460337

$I

1

$I $H

1 1

@

460290

$G

2

@

460800

$F

2

@

460836

$G

2

@ @

460997 460406 fax

$I $H

1 2

@ @

460967 fax 460748

$H

2

@

460001

$J

1

El Pucará, General Velasco 735 AEFGJLPUV Hire of boats and fishing equipment El Pirayú, Sargento Cabral 755 AELPV

Aguilar, Lavalle 151 Ideal, Lavalle 545 Italia, B. Mitre 486 Jorge Oldemburg, Reconquista 640

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

Accommodation on RN 12 Cabañas * * * * *

del Pescador, northern access KM 650 ABCELPV Hire of boats and fishing equipment del Soñador, northern access KM 645 ABCELPV Hire of boats and fishing equipment El Pato, northern access KM 645 ABCELPV Hire of boats and fishing equipment La Posada del Rey, southern access ABCELPV Los Quinchos, northern access ABCELPV Hire of boats and fishing equipment

Hosterías *** * * * *

La Posada Casa Blanca del Río Corrientes, Quinta 4 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Che Roga Caté, Los Sauces near El Dorado AELPV Malal Cué, Santa Rita 150 Chacra 2 AELPV Rhoner, Santa Rita 350, Chacra 1 AELPRV Excursions and fishing trips arranged. Morosi, Los Sauces Chacra 3 northern access

Residenciales

B Ríos, southern access

@

L

•

M Services and facilities •

Sports equipment: Tiempo Deporte, Avenida 25 de Mayo

S Buses

The bus terminal is on San Martín near Constitución; it has a 24-hour cafeteria.

Esquina

912

460209

El Rápido/TATA, San Martín @ 460392 ° Corrientes ($11.40); 3 daily ° Paraná; daily services

CORRIENTES

GOYA

Goya Population: 60 000 Postal code: 3450 @ area code: (03777) Altitude: 37 m Distance from Corrientes: 211 km south on RN 12

G

oya is located on the eastern bank of an arm of the Río Paraná near the junction with the Río Santa Lucía, and has developed into the second largest city in Corrientes Province. There is no official founding date but there was already a settlement here in 1790. It is the centre of a rice and tobacco growing area. In the surrounding region are palm groves such as at El Cocal and El Cocalito. Fishing excursions to the islands are one of the attractions of the town. With good tourist facilities and historic attractions it draws many tourists throughout the year. Note that street numbering does not start from the central Plaza.

Cafeterías • El Aljibe, José Gómez 820 • El Ancla, José E. Gómez 847. Salón de té • El Chipacito, José E. Gómez 886. Churros • La Pucu, M A Llosa 512 on the main Plaza

I Post and telegraph

A Festivals •

•

Fiesta Nacional del Tabaco (National Tobacco Festival): June

•

B Tourist information •

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, José E. Gómez 953 @ 420762 fax 421941

Post office: Correo Argentino, Belgrano 942 on the main Plaza Telephone: Telecom, Mariano I. Llosa near Tucumán

R Air services

Aeropuerto Provincial Díaz Colodrero is 8 km north of town. Airlines • LAER, Colón 1007 @ 422395

E Eating out Restaurants • Club Español, José Gómez 827. Parrilla • Club Juventud Unida, J.E. Martínez 252. International cuisine • Club Matienzo, San Martín near B. Mitre. Parrilla; shows • Club Unión, Avenida O. Justo 720. Parrilla; shows • El Palenque, España 361. Parrilla; shows • Haras 51, Pasaje Wenceslao. Peña; shows • La Casona, Tucumán 1182. Parrilla • Petit Restaurant, Colón 280. International cuisine

S Buses

The bus terminal is on José Gómez block 900 (corner of España). • Albazatti, España 380 @ 433111 ° Santa Lucía; 3 daily • Paso de la Patria ° Esquina (1 2 hour) • Ortiz ° San Roque; 1 daily Mon–Sat • El Mensajero ° Santillán; 3 daily • Silvia, Ave. Sarmiento 473 @ 422395 ° Paso de los Libres; 21 daily • El Rápido/TATA and Tala ° Corrientes ($7.70; 5 hrs) 6 daily ° Paraná; 6 daily

Pizzerías • La Casona, Tucumán 1182 • Yusepín, 25 de Mayo 535

913

Goya

MESOPOTAMIA C Accommodation in Goya Cabañas * *

@ @

420950 fax 430891 fax

@

439956

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV

@ @ @ @

LP

@

Fisherman’s Paradise, José Gómez 45 AELPSV La Posada del Sauce, Entre Ríos 1350 AELPV

Hosterías *

El Nono, Caa-Guazú 1128 AEFLPV Ddirectly on the river with boat hire

Hotels *** *** ** **

Cervantes, José Gómez 723 Fax 422445 Gran Hotel de Turismo, B. Mitre 880 Alcázar, José Gómez 850 Gran Goya, Colón 929

Residenciales

A Colón, Colón 1077

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

U Motoring

•

Ferry trip from Reconquista to Goya (21 2 hrs); 1 Mon, Wed, Thurs, Fri 13:30 Sat, Sun 15:00 • Reconquista (21 2 hrs); Mon, Wed, Thurs, Fri 06:30; Sat Sun 13:00. The launch leaves from the pier in 12 de Octubre at the end of M A Llosa. The bus to Reconquista picks up passengers at landing pier; fare $0.50, 1 2 hr Some river boats on their way south to Buenos Aires or north to Asunción in Paraguay call here for passengers when the river level is high enough.

•

a Sport

Sailing: Club Náutico y Pesca Goya, San Martín 602 Golf: Goya Golf Club, Zona Rural Colonia Carolina-Goya

$F $G $H

2 2 2

422682

$H

2

Santa Lucía: 21 km north on RP 12. Founded in 1616 by Hernando Arias de Saavedra (known as “Hernandarias”). This was a Franciscan mission reducción (reservation) for local Indians; in 1642 it was destroyed by marauding Chaco Indians and relocated to the present site. The church dates from 1770 and is a national monument Colonia Carolina: Capilla Nuestra Señora del Buen Consejo, better known as “Capilla del Diablo” (Chapel of the Devil) with carvings made from urunduy wood depicting the artists vision of hell. There is an Indian cemetery here on the banks of the Río Miní

ITÁ IBATÉ

Itá Ibaté Postal code: 3480 @ area code: (03783) Distance from Corrientes: 157 km east on RN 12

Itá Ibaté

422864 422926 fax 421366 421354

s Excursions

•

# Water transport

•

1 1

Launch hire • La Cueva del Pescador, España 220 • Pira Yagua, Belgrano 1043

The road north from Goya to Empedrado and Corrientes is sealed. • Service station: Shell, Colón near 25 de Mayo

•

$H $G

914

CORRIENTES

I

tá Ibaté is located on the Río Paraná halfway between Itatí and Ituzaingó, officially founded in 1877 by the government of Pedro Ferré. The Guaraní name signifies “high rock”. It is only a small village but the fishing, mainly for dorado and surubí, is good.

C Accommodation

S Buses

•

Cabañas Curajhi, Ituzaingó AEFGJLPUV @ 495086 * Cabañas Pesca y Algo Mas, San Martín ABELPV@ 495177 ** Hotel Piedra Alta, San Martín near B. Mitre AEFGJLPUV @ 495136 B Residencial El Hogar, General Paz near San Martín L **

U Motoring

•

•

Service station: A.C.A., RN 12 at the town entrance

a Sport

E Eating out •

Ciudad de Posadas has 5 services daily to Corrientes ($6.60; 2 hrs) and Posadas ($8.80; 21 2 hrs)

Hire of boat and fishing equipment • Sergio and Alfredo Haddad, Alberdi near San Martín • Guillermo Morales, Belgrano near Urquiza

Restaurant El Oásis, RN 12 near access road Restaurant La Post, RN 12 near access road

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, San Martín near 9 de Julio Telephone: Telecom, San Martín near 9 de Julio

ITATÍ

Itatí Population: 7000 Postal code: 3414 @ area code: (03783) Distance from Corrientes: 75 km west on RN 12

I

tatí is a small port on the Río Paraná. In 1615 Fray Luis Bolaños established a mission here. A statue of the Virgen de Itatí was brought here in 1859, and has been venerated ever since. The present-day Basilica Nuestra Señora de Itatí dates from 1950. The dome measures 26 m in diameter; on top is a 7.5 m statue of the Virgen de Itatí. The church has the capacity to hold 9000 worshippers.

A Festivals •

Residenciales B El Colonial, Desiderio Sosa 672 @ 493050 $I 2 B El Gauchito, Obispo Niella 438 @ 493250 $J 1 • Loma Guazú, Obispo Niella 440 PY @ 493061

Fiesta de la Virgen de Itatí: July 16. The procession begins in San Luis de Palmar, 53 km south-west of Itatí

C Accommodation Hotels ** Antártida, Avenida 25 de Mayo 250 AFPY@ 493060 fax $G 2 * El Promesero, Avenida 25 de Mayo AELPSV @ 493052 $I 1

E Eating out

• • 915

Restaurant Miguelito, O. Niella near J. de Gamara Restaurant Santa Rita, 25 de Mayo. Parrilla; show Itatí

MESOPOTAMIA M Services and facilities •

a Sport

It is possible to hire boats and fishing gear. Several villagers organize fishing trips such as Sr. Vicente Barrios and Sr. Omar Gómez.

Fishing gear: Casa Maciel, Avenida San Luis del Palmar

S Buses •

Corrientes; 8 daily; Empresa Itatí

U Motoring •

Service station: Y.P.F., at the intersection of RN 12 and the road to the village

ITUZAINGÓ

Ituzaingó Population: 18 000 Postal code: 3302 @ area code: (03786) Distance from Corrientes: 231 km east on RN 12

U

ntil the Complejo Hidroeléctrico Yacyretá Apipé (Yacyretá–Apipé Hydroelectric Project) began, Ituzaingó was a sleepy forgotten village on the banks of the Río Paraná, about 2 km off the main road with 3000 inhabitants. Now there is a modern satellite town housing several thousand workers and their families. The dam is being built by a French–Italian consortium and will benefit Paraguay and Argentina in many ways: generating electricity, providing irrigation, and opening up the upper Paraná for shipping. The resulting lake reaches the twin cities of Posadas and Encarnación 60 km upstream, and

C Accommodation in Ituzaingó Cabañas

• Don Federico, Paraje La Florida ABCY • Los Troncos, Mendoza near M.M. Güemes ABER • Mattes, Catamarca

@

420139. Boat ramp

@

420606

Hosterías

Yacyretá, Buenos Aires near Sanjón Loreto ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ • Papalo, Catamarca near Almirante Brown @ Also camp sites $I per tent

***

Hotels ** *

Ituzaingó, Entre Ríos near Iberá Nuevo Géminis, Corrientes 943 Boat hire, fishing trips

AEFGJLPUV AELPVY

Accommodation on RN 12

420577 fax 420866

$F

2

@

420601 fax

$G

2

@

420324

$H

2

• Estancia San Gará, KM 1237 offers adventure tourism which includes horse-riding, birdwatching, and walking in the Esteros del Iberá. The starting point is Posadas where pickups are made. The estancia is located one hour from Posadas. The price includes morning tea and lunch; return to Posadas at 16:00. Information: Ituzaingó @ (03786) 420550 or Posadas @ (03752) 427217

Ituzaingó

916

CORRIENTES

Río

PA R A G U AY ARG ENTI NA

Pa

SANTA FE

ran

á

MORENO

JUAN RIVERA

D BERNARDINO VALLE

BRASIL

SUDAMÉRICA

BELGRANO

SAN MARTÍN

SIMÓN BOLÍVAR

ENTRE RÍOS

PARANÁ

POSADAS

LIBERTADOR

CORRIENTES

DOMINGO F. SARMIENTO

C

PERU

ANTÁRTIDA ARGENTINA

BUENOS AIRES

IBERÁ

FRANCISCO LÓPEZ

MISIONES

JUJUY

CENTENARIO

PAGO LARGO

AVE. SARGENTO CABRAL

To Corrientes and to Posadas

3 DE ABRIL

AVE. 9 DE JULIO

N

SAN LUIS

C Municipalidad D Correo Argentino T

T Bus terminal Accommodation

FORMOSA

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO

ITUZAINGÓ

has begun to inundate the low-lying areas of both cities. There are two distinct wet seasons: In October, and in April/May. The annual rainfall is a high: 2800 mm. The Museo Histórico Municipal Manuel Lagraña (Manuel Lagraña Municipal Historical Museum) in Centenario 1582 is in a house dating from 1874. Exhibited are mostly historic items from the local community. There is also a library and a handicraft workshop attached to the

museum. In the Iglesia San Juan Bautista on Plaza San Martín is a picture of Jesuit origin. Indeed the area served as a refuge for the Jesuits and their Guaraní followers when their reducciones along the Río Paraná were attacked by Portuguese soldiers. In the vicinity are two small villages which are Jesuit foundations: San José Cue with a chapel dedicated to San José and 917

Ituzaingó

MESOPOTAMIA S Buses from Ituzaingó

The bus terminal is on Ave. Centenario. • Central El Rápido/TATA ° Saladas via Loreto, San Miguel and Santa Rosa; 1 daily • Ciudad de Posadas @ 420111 ° Corrientes ($8.80; 4 hrs); 8 daily ° Posadas ($4.80; 11 2 hrs); 8 daily ° Puerto Iguazú ($28.30); 2 daily ° Resistencia (41 2 hrs); 2 daily ° Santa Fe ($40.00); 1 daily • Expreso Singer has daily services to Buenos Aires • Transportes Río Uruguay @ 421150 ° Gobernador Virasoro

U Motoring

Tranquera de Loreto. Besides the mammoth Yaciretá project, fishing for dorado and surubí and other species is the big attraction.

The trip to Posadas is mostly through low-lying and partly swampy land. This is the northern end of the Esteros del Iberá. • Service station: Esso, Centenario near Gervasio Posadas

B Tourist information •

• •

Dirección de Turismo Municipal, Centenario near B. Valle @ 420015 Flora y Fauna, F. López near Paraná The Complejo Hidroeléctrico Yacyretá Apipé public relations office, Tranquera de Loreto, @ (03786) 420550 conducts guided tours of the project — see Excursions below

a Sport

•

s Excursions Tour operators • Sr. Abel Aguirre, 3 de Abril 2417 @ 421309 organises one day tours to the Esteros del Iberá, $225.00 per person including boat trip of one hour • Cepi Excursions, Buenos Aires 2143 @ 420309 • Cooperativa de Turismo Coembota, Belgrano near Buenos Aires @ 420008 fax 420333

D Camping •

•

Camping Cepi, Buenos Aires 2143 @ 420309 Camping Don Pancho, San Martín near Posadas @ (3752) 431708 in Posadas

E Eating out • • • • • • •

Restaurant El Caminante, Corrientes near Belgrano. Show Restaurant El Tío Bigotes, Buenos Aires 480. Show Restaurant El Yacaré, Complejo 1000 Viviendas. Show Restaurant La Salteña, Buenos Aires 2357 Pizzería Carlos Manuel, Paraná near F. López Pizzería Primo’s, Libertador 1521 Cafetería El Corsario, F. López near Belgrano

Tours • Complejo Hidroeléctrico Yacyretá Apipé: Guided tours to this two-nation project are organized by the public relations office 08:00–11:00 and 14:00–17:00. The tour is conducted in modern buses and takes about one hour. The bus visits the Paraguayan side of the project, but no passport is needed. The project is nearing completion. Admission $4.0

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Centenario near Bernardino Valle Telephone: Telecom, Centenario 1668

Ituzaingó

Camping and fishing gear: El Mariscador, Buenos Aires near Moreno

918

CORRIENTES

LA CRUZ

La Cruz Population: 4000 Postal code: 3346 @ area code: (03772) Altitude: 70 m Distance from Corrientes: 444 km south-east on RN 12, RN 123 and RN 14

L

a Cruz was founded in 1629 by the Jesuit priest Padre Cristóbal Altamirano but destroyed in 1817. In 1830 it was refounded on the spot of the old mission reducción. There is a fair amount of archeological remains from the Jesuit period such as the 16th century walls, and a cemetery going back to the late 18th century. Nearby is also the hydroelectric scheme of Guaviraví. In the Casa Parroquial functions a small museum. On the banks of the Río Uruguay is a beach with municipal baths.

Alvear

Accommodation in Alvear B Hospedaje Manito, on the access road into town L

The little town of Alvear is located 20 km north opposite the Brasilian town of Itaqui. Alvear was founded in 1864. There are daily launch and ferry services between the two cities. During the Jesuit times it was on the route to their missions in what is now Brazil and Uruguay. The actual town is 2 km off RN 14. Of interest in Alvear is the local parish church with its picture of Nuestra Señora del Rosario painted in 1770. On the Plaza 9 de Julio is a sundial which came from the Jesuit mission in Yapeyú. Facilities are included under the appropriate headings.

E Eating out Eating out in Alvear • Restaurant El Cheto, RN 14 near access road into town. Parrilla • Restaurant Los Pinos, RN 14 near access road into town. Parrilla

I Post and telegraph

• •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Unión near R. de E. de San Martín Telephone: Telecom, Unión 980

S Buses

Frequent bus services to Posadas and Paso de los Libres.

U Motoring

•

C Accommodation

A Hospedaje Luxor, Unión 707 near Aguapey LP @ 491321 B Hospedaje Vallecito, Juan Branchi L

Service station: Y.P.F., Unión near Los Andes

MERCEDES

Mercedes Population: 26 000 Postal code: 3470 @ area code: (03773) Altitude: 100 m Distance from Corrientes: 240 km south on RN 12 then south-west on RN 123 919

Mercedes

MESOPOTAMIA C Accommodation in Mercedes Hotels *** *** *** * *

Turismo, Caa-Guazú near Sarmiento ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Mercedes Gran Hotel, Caa-Guazú 750 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 421474 Victoria, José M. Gómez 742 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Ita Pucu, Batalla de Salta 645 AELPV Plaza, San Martín 694 AELPV

Residenciales

A Petit Sol, San Martín 519 A Santa Rita, Dr. Rivas 1180 B Rincón de Amigos, Pujol 1556

LP LP L

@

420317

$F

2

@ @ @ @

421820 420330 421357 420013

$F $F

2 2

$F

2

@ @ @

420283 420128 420593

$G $H $H

2 2 2

M

ercedes was officially founded in 1832. It was an embattled area during the wars for national unity and during the War of the Triple Alliance. In the Parque Mitre is the Monolito Azcona, a historic monument marking the grave of a Paraguayan colonel. •

Mercedes is the starting point for excursions to the southern part of the Esteros del Iberá. Local artisans are very skilled and make objects of leather, wool, wood, and stone.

• • •

D Camping Camping in Colonia Carlos Pellegrini • Camping Iberá $J 1

U Motoring

E Eating out

•

Restaurants • El Patio de Chirola, José Gómez 736. Parrilla • El Quincho, Avenida San Martín. Parrilla; show • La Barra, Chacabuco 580. Bar and show • La Rueda, Juan Pujol near Chacabuco • Santa Rita, Dr. Rivas 1180 • Vieja Casa, Alvear 720. Dancing • Wavima, Belgrano 655

•

Golf: C.A.C. Mercedes (Corrientes), Avenida R.O. del Uruguay @421816

p Sightseeing

•

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Rivadavia 700 Telephone: Plácido Martínez near Rivadavia

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Alvear near San Juan.

Mercedes

Service station: Shell, España near Mitre

a Sport

•

I Post and telegraph •

Central El Rápido/TATA, J. A. Ferreyra @ 421243 ° Corrientes ($8.40); 2 daily ° Buenos Aires ($42.00); 1–2 daily Expreso Ciudad de Gualeguaychú ° Mocoretá via Curuzú Cuatiá and Monte Caseros; 2 daily Flechabus @ 422209 Itatí y Ortiz ° Esteros del Iberá ($46.00) ° Santo Tomé via Carlos Pellegrini

920

Museo Municipal de Ciencias Naturales (Municipal Natural Sciences Museum), San Martín 894. A very large collection of vertebra and invertebrate Museo Histórico Colonial y de Bellas Artes (Colonial History and Fine Arts Museum), B. Mitre 633. Arms used during the War of the Triple Alliance in particular in the battle of Pago Largo, a letter of San Martín to Bernardo O’Higgins the Chilean Liberator are the main items in this exhibition

CORRIENTES s Excursions •

Reserva Natural Esteros del Iberá on page 928

Colonia Carlos Pellegrini on Laguna Iberá: 120 km north on RP 40. See also

MONTE CASEROS

Monte Caseros Population: 21 000 Postal code: 3220 @ area code: (03775) Altitude: 51 m Distance from Corrientes: 384 km south-east on RN 12, RN 119 and RN 14 and RP 129

M

onte Caseros is situated on the Río Uruguay opposite the border towns of Barra do Quarai in Brazil and Bella Unión in Uruguay. From here northwards the Alto Río Uruguay forms the border between Argentina and Brazil. Until 1827 a small village existed here going back to Jesuit times which served as a roadhouse when traveling between the far-flung Jesuit estancias. There is also an archeological site where spear tips, harpoons, and utensils made from onyx have been found.

E Eating out

Nearby are the archeological sites of two Jesuit settlements: Cambay, a former Jesuit reducción, and Tacuabe, a Jesuit chapel. Near La Cachuera semi-precious stones are found, a fact already known to the Indian tribes in pre-Hispanic times. Also included here is the little town of Mocoretá near the border with Entre Ríos Province, with some tourist facilities.

• • •

Restaurant Club Progreso, Alvear 765 Restaurant Club Español, España 345 Cafetería La Montevideana, Alvear 1412 Eating out in Mocoretá • Restaurant Don Pepe, RN 14 KM 345 • Restaurant El Parador, RN 14 KM 360. Parrilla

I Post and telegraph

• •

B Tourist information •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Alvear 1199 Telephone: Telecom, Alvear 1167

Municipalidad @ 422415

C Accommodation in Monte Caseros Hotels ** * *

Paterlini, Colón 1514 AEFGJLPSUV Brero, Tucumán 202 near 2 de Febrero AELPV Conte, Salta 463 AELPV

Residenciales

A Antonio III, J. Pujol 1209 LP A Córtez, 2 de Febrero 1663 LP B Tres Fronteras, B. Mitre near San Martín L

Accommodation in Mocoretá

Hotel Confort, Marturet 840 AEFGJLPUV A Residencial Brisas del Litoral, RN 14 KM 345 LP

**

921

@ @ @

422219 422625 422329

$H $H $G

2 2 2

@ @ @

422819 422334 422792

$H $H $H

2 2 2

@ @

498304 498267

Monte Caseros

MESOPOTAMIA S Buses •

U Motoring

•

Central El Rápido/TATAand Flechabus @ 423683 ° Mocoretá (11 2 hrs); 4 daily ° Corrientes via Mercedes and Bella Vista; 2–3 daily

Service station: Y.P.F., Tucumán 299

# Water transport Ferry services • Bella Unión (Uruguay); 4 daily 08:00– 17:00

PASO DE LA PATRIA

Paso de la Patria Postal code: 3409 @ area code: (03783) Distance from Corrientes: 35 km north on RN 12

L

ocated opposite the junction of the Ríos Paraguay and Paraná, about 10 km off RN 12, Paso de la Patria was founded in 1872. In colonial times it was called Paso del Rey (King’s Pass) as it was the ferrying point for the Spanish militia to and from Paraguay. The area was an active war zone during the War of the Triple Alliance. Now it is a paradise for dorado anglers who congregate here during August to October for the annual dorado fishing competition. The river at this point is more than 11 2 km wide. On the Paso de la Patria side there are some rocky banks, but most of it consists of sandy stretches. The town opposite in Paraguay is also called Paso de la Patria. Nearby are shifting sands which have been planted with trees to

control the movement towards the village. It was here that some

C Accommodation in Paso de la Patria Cabañas *** **

F.A.T.S.A., San Luis 202 ABCDEFGJKLPTUVY Virgen de Itatí, 25 de Mayo near Jujuy ABCEFGJLPUV

@ @

494076/7 494045

$I

1

@

494258

$E

2

@ @ @

494337 fax 494009 425672

$F $F

2 3

@ @ @

494066 494051 494105

$H

2

Hosterías **

Jardín del Paraná, Avenida Santa Coloma ACEFGJLPUV Fax 494291

Hotels Puesta del Sol, Belgrano near Quebracho, Barrio Jardín ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY ** Safari Dorado, San Luis near 25 de Mayo • Uruguay, Uruguay 1250

***

Residenciales

B Oásis, 8 de Diciembre 381 AKPY • Casa Mersch, Belgrano 235 • Casa Sicardi, 25 de Mayo near Santiago del Estero

Accommodation outside Paso de la Patria **

Cabañas Don Julián, Avenida Santa Colmena 2 km outside town, on the river Fax 494024/45; boat hire ABEFGJLPUV @ 494021 $G/H 1

Paso de la Patria

922

CORRIENTES Río Paraná 1

BOLIVIA

2

I

P 4

E

8 DE DICIEMBRE

T 8

9

SAN MARTÍN

LIBERTAD

JUJUY

RIOJA

BELGRANO

SAN JUAN

CÓRDOBA

MENDOZA

12

CATAMARCA

11

SALTA

BUENOS AIRES

10

9 DE JULIO

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO

SAN LUIS

7

N

To Cabañas Don Julián

3

25 DE MAYO C

SARMIENTO 12

PASO DE LA PATRIA

MORENO

To Corrientes

Key to map A C E I P $ T

Iglesia Municipalidad Telecom, Mendoza 194 Dirección Municipal de Turismo Y.P.F. service station Money exchange Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 2 3 5 9 12

Cabañas Virgen de Itatí Residencial Casa Sicardi Cabañas F.A.T.S.A. Residencial Oásis Residencial Casa Mersch Restaurant Paso del Rey Restaurant Dulce María

Dorado fishing competition which attracts many anglers in August when most accommodation is booked out

B Tourist information

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, 25 de Mayo 530 @ 494007 fax 494019

D Camping •

7

Disco Amon-Ra

0 Services

Launch services to Paraguay and Isla Cerrito 10 Fishing Emiliano Falcón

Dulce María, 8 de Diciembre 61. Pizzería • El Santafesino, Rioja near Sarmiento. Show • Paso del Rey, 8 de Diciembre 660 Snackbars • Mauri, 9 de Julio 365. Hamburgers • Todo Pollo, 8 de Diciembre 315. Chicken Outside town • Restaurant Bigotes Ranch, 1 km before Cabañas Don Julián. Parrilla; show

A Festivals

•

5 Entertainment

•

fighting took place during the War of the Triple Alliance. •

8 Snackbar Todo Pollo 11 Snackbar Mauri

1

4 Eating out 4 6

To Posadas

Camping Municipal No 1, 25 de Mayo near Río Paraná. Capacity 100 tents and 30 camper vans. Restaurant

n Entertainment

• •

E Eating out

Disco Amanecer Tropical, Rioja 869 Disco Amon-Ra, 8 de Diciembre 295. Weekends only

I Post and telegraph

Restaurants • Alejandro I, Coronel López 502. International cuisine

•

923

Post office: Correo Argentino, 8 de Diciembre near Catamarca

Paso de la Patria

CORRIENTES •

The bus terminal is on 8 de Diciembre near Catamarca. • Corrientes (1 hour); Empresa Paso de la Patria

the fishing season only two dorados are allowed per person per day. Hire of launches and fishing gear • El Turco, Rioja 915 @ 420657 • Emiliano Falcón, Avenida San Martín 205 @ 494264

U Motoring

•

Telephone: Telecom, Mendoza 194

S Buses

•

s Excursions

Service station: Y.P.F., 25 de Mayo 681

# Water transport

Launch services to Paso de la Patria in Paraguay run three times a week, on Mon, Wed, and Fri, leaving Paso de la Patria at 14:00. Return trip the following day. You would have to stay overnight in Paraguay.

a Sport Fishing Dorado fishing is not permitted between October and the end of February. During

Isla del Cerrito: This island can be reached by daily ferry services departing 07:00, 15:00, and 17:30. This service is free. Information from port officials. The island is part of Chaco Province to which it is connected by a bridge; see Excursions from Resistencia on page . The island has an interesting history. At the end of the War of the Triple Alliance (Argentina, Uruguay, and Brazil versus Paraguay), the Brazilians occupied the island. Only after 10 years of negotiations did the Brazilians withdraw

PASO DE LOS LIBRES

Paso de los Libres Population: 35 000 Postal code: 3230 @ area code: (03772) Altitude: 60 m Distance from Corrientes: 362 km south-east on RN 12 and RN 123

I

n 1843 General Joaquín Madariaga crossed the Río Uruguay here with his 108 liberators to annex Corrientes Province to Argentina; they defeated the dictator Rosas at the battle of Arroyo Grande. The town is located on a little hill overlooking the Río Uruguay which is about 1 km wide here. It is linked by the Puente Internacional Agustín P. Justo — Getulio Vargas with the Brazilian town of Uruguaiana. At the bridge there is a huge A.C.A. service station complex with a cafeteria. On the Plaza Independencia is a monument with the names and ranks of the 108 liberators.

The climate is temperate subtropical. Along the river there are many beaches.

A Festivals

• •

Famous carnaval season Fiesta de San José, patron saint of the town: March 19

B Tourist information

•

924

Intendencia Municipal, Madariaga near Mitre on the Plaza @ 425605

Paso de los Libres

CORRIENTES C Accommodation in Paso de los Libres Hotels Alejandro I, Coronel López 502 Fax 424103 ** Iberá, Coronel López 1091 ** Madariaga, Pago Largo 957 * Uruguay, Uruguay 1252 • Las Vegas, Sarmiento 554

***

Residenciales

A Budapest, San Martín 1965 A Capri, Santiago del Estero 320 A 26 de Febrero, Uruguay 1297

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPSUV AELPV

@ @ @ @ @

424100 421848 425501 fax 425672 423490

$F $G $G $G

2 2 2 2

LP LP LP

@ @ @

425583 424126 422050

$H $H

2 2

D Camping •

passport control, the trip takes half an hour.

Autocamping Municipal Laguna Mansa, Avenida San Martín near Puente Internacional overlooking the Río Uruguay. Capacity: 500 tents, 100 caravan. Restaurant

U Motoring

The road to Corrientes via Mercedes is sealed most of the way. RN 17 trip to Yapeyú passes through many planted eucalyptus forests. It is sealed throughout. Service stations • A.C.A., on the approaches to the international bridge. Information and maps and restaurant • Esso, Colón block 400 near Pago Lago

E Eating out Restaurants • Babilonia, Colón 960. International cuisine; show • Don Enrique, Colón 575. Parrilla • El Hispano, Madariaga 747. Parrilla • Guaraní, Madariaga 629 • Jockey Club, Colón 1050. Tea room • La Giralda, Colón 878. Café • Máximo, B. Mitre 1221 • Yacuru Pora, Pago Largo 952

T Trains

The now disused railroad station is in Tucumán block 1300 near Belgrano.

Y Shopping

n Entertainment • •

The main shopping street is Colón. • Eduardo Arias, Sitja Nim 914. Local handicraft and silverware

Casino Río Uruguay S.A., Madariaga 625 Night Club Kanela, Mitre 1072

p Sightseeing

I Post and telegraph • •

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Juan Sitja Nimn Telephone: Telecom Madariaga 854

•

L Financial •

Cambio Libres, Colón 901 @ 425700. Cash only

Q Border crossing

The border crossing on the international bridge is open 24 hours. If you are simply visiting Uruguaiana and returning the same day, stay on the bus which is normally just waved through. Including

• •

925

The Anfiteatro Carlos Gómez, in the park near the road to the International Bridge, is the city’s cultural focal point Museo Histórico (History Museum), Rivadavia near Colonel Reguera. This was the home of Dr. Arturo Frondizi, ex-President of Argentina. Documents and memorabilia of the local history Monolito a los 108. Memorial to the “liberators” during the campaign against the dictator Rosas in 1843 Monolito de la Batalla de Yatay (Battle of Yatay Memorial). In memory of

Paso de los Libres

MESOPOTAMIA PASO DE LOS LIBRES

MENDOZA ISLER

Arr

H

oyo

T. ALISIO

Plaza España

a Ya t

URUGUAI

BRASIL

25 DE MAYO

y

A . MONTAÑA

BELGRANO

T. NIVEYRO

D.F. SARMIENTO

D

E

Plaza Indepen denc ia

Río Urug

A

MADARIAGA

Plaza San Martín

C

3 1

6

5

2

8

7

9

10

4

AVE. COLÓN

$

12

11

FERRÉ

CARLOS PELLEGRINI

uay

16 BOMPLAND

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

REGUERA

14 15

PAGO LARGO

13

YATAY

LOS CIENTO OCHO

CORONEL LÓPEZ

M. MELOGNIO

M. FRANCO

N

BARTOLMÉ MITRE

JUAN SITJA MIN

RIVADAVIA

P. MARTÍNEZ

TUCUMÁN

17

18

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO

T

19 20

S. DE TOMASO

To Posadas

21 22 117

P

Paso de los Libres

926

23

To Uruguaiana (Brazil)

Laguna Mansa

CORRIENTES Key to map A C D E H P $ T

Iglesia Intendencia Municipal Correo Argentino Telecom Hospital A.C.A. Cambio Libres Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 9 12 13 14

Hotel Madariaga Hotel Alejandro I Hotel Iberá Residencial 26 de Febrero

15 17 18 19 22

Hotel Uruguay Residencial Budapest Residencial Capri Camping Municipal Autocamping Municipal Laguna Mansa

4 Eating out 1 4 5 6 8 10

Restaurant Jockey Club Restaurant La Giralda Restaurant El Hispano Restaurant Guaraní Restaurant Don Enrique Restaurant Yacuru Pora

5 Entertainment 2 7 11 21

Restaurant Babilonia Casino Río Uruguay S.A. Night Club Kanela Anfiteatro Carlos Gómez

0 Services

3 Artesanía Eduardo Arias 20 Defunct railroad station 23 Border crossing and passport control

s Excursions

the Battle of Yatay during the War of the Triple Alliance in 1865 Tourist complex, including Victoria zoo

•

16 Restaurant Máximo

•

Uruguaiana in Brazil: Take a Muñoz or Perini bus

S Buses from Paso de los Libres Bus companies The bus terminal is on San Martín 2082 @ 425600 • Perini S.A. ° Uruguaiana/Brasil (11 4 hrs); 3 daily • Ray ° Esquina via Curuzú Cuatiá and Sauce • Silvia ° Goya via Curuzú Cuatiá ($3.10; 11 2 hrs) • A60 El Litoral • A71 Central El Rápido/TATA @ 425666 ° Corrientes ($12.10; 8 hrs); 3 daily • A100 Empresa Kurtz • A112 Empresa Tala • A132 Expreso Singer @ 424716 • A137 Flecha Bus @ 425088 ° Mocoretá (21 4 hrs); 1 daily ° Mercedes via Monte Caseros and Curuzú Cuatiá • A273 Crucero del Norte ° Santo Tomé ($8.10; 4 hrs) via Yapeyú ($1.65); 3 daily • A298 Buses Federal Long-distance services • • • • • • • •

Destination Buenos Aires Córdoba La Plata Paraná Posadas Puerto Iguazú Rosario Santa Fe

Fare $20.90 $45.10 $15.80 $25.70

Services 3 daily 1–2 daily

Duration

Company A112, A132, A273 A60, A132 A112 A100, A298 6 hrs A100, A132, A273 A100, A132 A61, A100 A60, A100, A132

1–2 daily 6 daily 1–2 daily 1–2 daily 4 daily

927

Paso de los Libres

MESOPOTAMIA •

Yapeyú. A bus trip to the Jesuit mission and birthplace of General San Martín; see page 931

RESERVA NATURAL DEL IBERÁ

Reserva Natural del Iberá

T

he Reserva Natural del Iberá is best accessed from Colonia Carlos Pellegrini. The 120 km RP 40 from Mercedes runs mostly through swampy area; 40 km are sealed. These immense wetlands consist of 700 000 ha (1 729 700 acres) of swamp and small lagunas interconnected by waterways which are more often than not overgrown with aquatic plants. This huge water-logged area is the result of high rainfalls, and as the land is fairly flat the water cannot easily run off. Most of the waterways and lakes are quite shallow. The area around Colonia Carlos Pellegrini near the actual Laguna Iberá has been earmarked for tourist development. It is intended to create facilities to study the animal population with the aim of bringing them back from the brink of extinction. It is interesting to note that the former poachers have been converted to astute guardians of this natural reserve. The village is built on somewhat higher ground; just behind the houses the swamp starts. The villagers are to a large extent descendants of the Guaranís who have preserved their language and some of their customs to this day, owing to fact that they were living in an isolated spot for centuries. In the local pulpería or gaucho bar you can hear tango music with the lyrics translated into the Guaraní language. The favorite drink is llave, a type of gin. Outside the bar there is provision for tying the horses. This swamp is home to animals such as the swamp deer, pampas deer or guautí, and yacaré. Yacarés are a type of dwarf cayman; there are two types: caimán overo and caimán negro. A short walk brings you to the

Reserva Natural del Iberá

small forest which is the living area of a group of carayá monkeys, already very rare.

C Accommodation

•

Posada Aguapé, rustic and can be a bit noisy; reservation in Buenos Aires @ (011)47423015 $G 1 including breakfast

D Camping

The only camping ground here is run by Sr. Aldades @ (03773) 421154.

S Buses

There is a bus service on Mon, Wed, and Fri leaving Mercedes at 10:30 and arriving in Colonia Carlos Pellegrini at 14:00. The return bus from Colonia Carlos Pellegrini to Mercedes leaves Tues, Thurs, and Sat at 13:00 and arrives in Mercedes at 16:30. Flechabus runs a direct service from Buenos Aires leaving Retiro bus terminal at 21:00 and arriving in Mercedes at 09:00. Continue from here by tráfico — a sort of colectivo — $150.00 for 10 persons.

s Excursions

The best option for visiting the Iberá swamplands and its wildlife is with a tour operator who also organizes stays on nearby estancias. Most of these estancias themselves organize ecological tours in the area.

928

CORRIENTES organize trips through the Iberá swamps with their base at the estancia San Juan de Poriahú near Loreto. This 16 500 ha station was originally a Jesuit estancia. Excursions on horseback, boat trips through the swamps and night trips to spot nocturnal animals Excursions Boats carrying four lasting one hour cost $15.00 per person.

Tour operators Buenos Aires • Comarcas, @ (011) 4861130/821 • Estancia “Rincón del Diablo” @ (03773) 420103/420247. Sr. Luis Zemborain organizes trekking, trips excursions on horseback, dorado and surubí fishing and photographic safaris. On his property are several lagunas with crystal-clear water. He also has a yacaré farm on one of the lagunas • Lihue Expediciones, Buenos Aires @ (011) 43119610/43150906. They

SANTO TOMÉ

Santo Tomé Population: 19 000 Postal code: 3340 @ area code: (03756) Altitude: 73 m Distances From Corrientes: 387 km east on RN 12 and RN 11 • From Posadas: 147 km south on RN 14 on a sealed road •

S

anto Tomé was officially founded in 1863, but its origins go back to the Jesuit mission of Hormiguero founded in 1638 by Padre Cristóbal de Mendoza. After the expulsion of the Jesuits the settlement decayed and was sacked by the Portuguese in 1817. A bridge across the Río Uruguay provides a link with the Brazilian town of São Borja; it is an important international crossing. •

The town also attracts fishing enthusiasts. The first action in the War of the Triple Alliance took place near the village of Casa Pava in 1865. Also included here is the little town of Gobernador Ingeniero Virasoro, some 40 km north on RN 14 to Apóstoles. Near Virasoro is Estancia Las Marías, a large maté producer which can be visited.

• •

Eating out in Gobernador Virasoro Restaurants • La Posta I, RN 14 near Avenida San Martín. Parrilla • El Brasileiro, Avenida San Martín near Sarmiento. Parrilla • Mostaza Pub, Avenida San Martín near General Paz. International cuisine; show • Pepe, Lavalle 564. International cuisine

A Festivals •

El Gaucho, Centeno 474. Parrilla; show El Lazo, Avenida Las Américas 525. Parrilla Terminal

Festival Correntino de Folklore (Corrientes Folk Festival): December

E Eating out

I Post and telegraph

•

Restaurants • Dali, San Martín 557. Parrilla; show

929

Post office: Correo Argentino, H.Yrigoyen near Brazil

Santo Tomé

MESOPOTAMIA C Accommodation in Santo Tomé

During the holiday season book in advance for the better hotels. Hotels Santo Tomé (A.C.A.), Blanco 1450 six blocks from town center near the water tower ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 420506 fax $G ADEFGPY @ 420583 • Santo Tomé, Ave. San Martín 895

***

Residenciales

A Pucará, San Martín 555 LP Three blocks from the bus terminal A Santo Tomé, San Martín near Belgrano LP B Brasil, B. Mitre 717 L B Che-Roga, Uruguay 936 L Opposite the bus terminal B De Santi, Roca 823 L B Paris, Mitre 890 near Beltrán L Back-packers

Accommodation in Gobernador Ingeniero Virasoro Hotels **

Arami, Avenida Lavalle 379 AEFGJKLPUVY Fax 481585; e-mail: [email protected]

Residenciales

A de la Ciudad, Avenida San Martín near H. Yrigoyen LP B Carlitos, Lavalle near Ocampo L

•

@

420340

$H

2

@ @

420583 fax 420153

$F $I

2 2

@ @ @

420480 420823 420255

$G $H

2 2

@

(03756) 481239 $F

2

@ @

(03756) 481599 $G (03756) 481194

2

U Motoring

Telephone: Telecom, H.Yrigoyen 701

The road between Santo Tomé and Apóstoles runs through flat swampy country. • Service station: Shell, H. Yrigoyen near Independencia

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Uruguay near San Martín. • El Litoral runs services to Córdoba, Paraná, and Santa Fe • El Norte Bis runs services to Rosario, Puerto Iguazú, and Santa Fe • Expreso Singer runs services to Buenos Aires, Córdoba, Posadas, Porto Alegre in Brazil and Puerto Iguazú ° Corrientes ($14.30; 6 hrs); Empresa Ciudad de Posadas ° Apóstoles ($4.50; 11 2 hrs); 3 daily; Empresa Tigre Iguazú, Expreso Singer ° Ituzaingó ($5.80; 2 hrs); Empresa Ciudad de Posadas ° Posadas (21 2 hrs); 3 daily; Empresa Tigre Iguazú, Expreso Singer ° Yapeyú (3 hrs); Empresa Tigre Iguazú

Santo Tomé

2

p Sightseeing

• • •

Museo Histórico Regional (Museum of Regional History), Navajas 844 Museo Miguel J Centeno, Blanco 869. Exhibits of local history The main church has a baptismal font which dates back to the Jesuit mission of 1688

s Excursions

• •

930

The Jesuit ruins near Puerto Hormiguero are 10 km south, and can be reached by municipal bus 2 Jesuit ruins of São Borja in Brazil

CORRIENTES

YAPEYÚ

Yapeyú Postal code: 3231 @ area code: (03772) Altitude: 64 m Distance from Corrientes: 395 km south-east on RN 12, RN 123 and RN 14

Y

apeyú was founded in 1626 as the capital of the Jesuit Guaraní missions. It soon became a flourishing community. By the time the Jesuits were expelled from South America there were 60 000 head of cattle here and the population was over 8000. The present village is only a faint echo of its former glory — it was not only a prosperous rural community but also a renowned seat of learning, and the second city after Buenos Aires in the Gobernación del Río de la Plata. After the expulsion of the Jesuits, Spanish civil and military governors took control, but it became clear that they could not match the talents of the Jesuits. In 1775 the father of Don José de San Martín became military governor in Yapeyú. He moved into the little fortress which was then the residence of the governors, and it was here that Don José, the future liberator of half of South America, was born. In those days the region was under constant threat from marauding Portuguese, and it was against these invasions rather than the local indigenous people that the Spanish had to guard. •

Yapeyú was almost destroyed by fire in 1817 when a Portuguese army invaded the township under the command of the Marquis de Alderete. In 1860 Yapeyú was refounded as José de San Martín in honor of the Liberator, but was renamed Yapeyú for historical reasons in 1889.

I Post and telegraph

• •

The bus terminal is on Avenida Libertador near G. Matorras. • Crucero del Norte has 2 services daily to Paso de los Libres, Santo Tomé (3 hrs) and Posadas

From July to the middle of August accommodation is scarce. Many visitors stay in Paso de los Libres (page 924) from which Yapeyú is a day excursion. ** Parador Yapeyú, Juan de San Martín near Paso de los Patos, overlooking Río Uruguay AEFGJLPUVY @ 493056 $F for 5. Bungalows * Hotel San Martín, Cabral 712 AEFGLPSVY @ 493120 $H 2 • Hotel Paraíso, San Martín @ 493056

U Motoring

The road to Santo Tomé runs through much swampy country, especially between La Cruz and Alvear. • Service station: A.C.A., Alejandro Aguado

p Sightseeing

The whole settlement is alive with historical mementos: Jesuit inscriptions on rocks, temple columns on street corners, and references to José San Martín, like the

E Eating out •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Sargento Cabral near O. Romero Telephone: Telecom, Sargento Cabral near Matorras

S Buses

C Accommodation

& •

Cafetería La Farola Bar, Sargento Cabral

Restaurant del Bicentenario, Avenida del Libertador, overlooking the river Restaurant Doña Lima, Avenida del Libertador

931

Yapeyú

MESOPOTAMIA 300-year-old fig tree which was a contemporary of the young San Martín. • La Casa de San Martín (House of San Martín). Painstaking excavation by archeologists has located the house in which San Martín was born. The house is now inside a larger building and the whole place is kept in immaculate condition • Museo Sanmartiniano (San Martín Museum). The gardens surrounding the museum is a replica of the garden in Boulogne-sur-Mer in France where San Martín spent his last years in a self-imposed exile. Next to the remains of his birthplace there is a reconstructed black Jesuit structure which serves as a museum. Here you can view documents belonging or

Yapeyú

• •

•

932

referring to San Martín during his lifetime Village church, a nineteenth-century neo-gothic building A partially completed arch was erected after the disastrous Islas Malvinas (Falkland Islands) war, to commemorate the fallen. Most units serving in the war were from Corrientes. The arch will be completed when the islands are restored to Argentina Museo de Cultura Jesuítica (Jesuit Museum). Many objects and implements used during the Jesuit time and found in this area are gathered here. There are also columns with inscriptions in Spanish and Guaraní

ENTRE RÍOS ENTRE M Entre ESOPOTAMIA Ríos RÍOS

Plate 23 935 937 939 941 943 946 947 951 952 953 954 955 957 959 962 963 963 964 965 966 968 970 973 974 975 976 977 978 980 980

Map of Entre Ríos Province Chajarí ABCDEnJKLSUpqs Colón ABCDEnJKLPQSUWXYas Map Concepción del Uruguay ABCDEnJKLSUYapsWXefiq Map r Concordia ABCDEnJKLPRSU#WYaeipq Map s Crespo ABCESUp Diamante ABCDEnJKSXYaehs Federación ABCDEnJKS#UWXfgpq Federal BCESU Gualeguay ABCDEJKSUpXYenq Gualeguaychú ACBDEnJKLMNPQSUWYaijp Map rs Hernandarias ABCDESe Ibicuy BCESe La Paz ABECnJKMSUYXafehpqs Map Nogoyá BCEISU Paraná BDECnJKLNRSU#YPWXagio Map pqrs Map of city center Parque Nacional El Palmar BDESXbv Rosario del Tala BCDEnSUWps San José ABCESq San José de Feliciano ABCDESUa Santa Elena ABCEnSUa Victoria ABCDEnJKMS#Yapqrs Villa Elisa BCESqr Villaguay BCEnIOSUWXagpq

933

Entre Ríos

MESOPOTAMIA 981 Villa Libertador General San Martín BCESUs 982 Villa Paranacito BCDEZ#e 983 Villa Urquiza BCEIS 984 Stopovers C ntre Ríos means “between rivers”, an apt description of this province’s location between the Río Uruguay and the Río Paraná. To the east, the Río Uruguay forms the border with Uruguay; the Río Paraná forms the border with Santa Fe Province to the west, and to the south with Buenos Aires Province. To the north is Corrientes Province, the border formed by a series of smaller rivers. Other important rivers are the Río Gualeguaychú and the Río Gualeguay. The terrain in Entre Ríos Province is uniformly flat, except for the so-called “Cuchillos” (“Knives”) in the center. Not surprisingly, a considerable part of this low-lying country is swampy and marshy, especially along the Río Paraná as it approaches its junction with the Río Uruguay to form the Río de la Plata in the south-east corner of the province.

E

The province covers an area of 78 781 square km (30 000 square miles). The climate is temperate, with an average annual rainfall of 1000 mm. Even though summer is the wettest season, the rainfall is spread fairly evenly throughout the year. The provincial capital is Paraná, some 480 km north-west of Buenos Aires. Built on the high banks of the Río Paraná, it is an important river trading center. The hinterland is very fertile and produces rice, corn, sorghum, wheat, citrus fruit, peanuts, and many other crops. The population is almost one million, and comprises a variety of ethnic groups. A great many Wolga Germans settled in the province after the war. The original inhabitants of Entre Ríos were the Guaranís. Many descendants of this people still live in the province, and in some areas a Guaraní dialect has survived. The province is linked by the Complejo Ferrovial Zárate–Brazo Largo (Zárate–Brazo Largo Bridge

Entre Ríos

Complex) with Buenos Aires Province, which consists of a bridge over the Río Paraná de las Palmas, and another over the Río Paraná Guazú. The entire complex is built some 10 m above the swamp, all the way from Paraná de las Palmas to the Río Paraná Guazú bridge. This system enables trains and buses to make the journey from Paraná to Buenos Aires in less than eight hours. Entre Ríos is an angler’s paradise, and numerous fishing competitions are held here. The most sought-after fish is the dorado, a type of giant goldfish. A number of Argentina’s most impressive engineering structures are in this province: • The Complejo Ferrovial Zárate–Brazo Largo, mentioned above, which crosses the two arms of the Río Paraná and links Entre Ríos with Buenos Aires Province • The 2400 m long Túnel Subfluvial Uranga Silvestre Begnis, formerly Hernandarias River Tun-

934

ENTRE RÍOS Air services to and from Entre Ríos Services • • •

Paraná– Buenos Aires (1 hr); 1–2 daily Gualeguaychú–Buenos Aires (1 2 hr); 1 daily Mon–Fri Buenos Aires–Concordia (1 hr)-Paso de los Libres (13 4 hrs); 1 daily Mon–Fri

nel, under the Río Paraná, linking Paraná with Santa Fe city • The bridge over the Embalse Salto Grande on the Río Uruguay, built in conjunction with Uruguay • The Puente Internacional Libertador General José de San Martín (Liberator General José de San Martín International Bridge) over the Río Uruguay. This bridge is 5400 m long, and links the town of Gualeguaychú with Fray Bentos in Uruguay • Near Salto Grande there is a huge hydroelectric power station built in co-operation with Uruguay The main attractions of Entre Ríos for the tourist are its excellent fishing, casinos, and golf courses, and the Parque Nacional El Palmar near

Concordia, which has camping facilities right on the Río Uruguay. The t o w n s o f P a r a n á, C o n c o r d i a , Federación, Gualeguaychú, and Colón are also worth visiting. The main tourist route is along the two river systems: Corredor del Río Uruguay and Corredor del Río Paraná. Corredor del Río Uruguay suggests visits to Villa Paranacito, Gualeguaychú, Concepción del Uruguay, Colón, Parque Nacional El Palmar, Concordia, Federación, and Federal. This is the historically more interesting part of Entre Ríos Province. Corredor del Río Paraná suggests visits to Gualeguay, Victoria, Diamante, Parque Nacional Pre-Delta La Azotea, Paraná, Villa Urquiza, Hernandarias, Santa Elena, and La Paz. This is the “fisherman’s” route.

CHAJARÍ

Chajarí Postal code: 3228 @ area code: (03456) Distances • From Concordia: 91 km north on RN 14 • From Paraná: 389 km eastwards on RN 18 then north on RN 14

C

hajarí is a relatively recent town. It began to flourish when citrus plantations were established in the area. It is located in the north-eastern sector of the province, about 18 km west of Embalse Salto Grande. The average temperatures range from 27°C (80°F) in summer to 14°C (56°F) in winter. Despite the neat, ordered citrus plantations, patches of virgin forest

can still be found around town. Many streams wind their way through the area, and the surrounding plains have been partially reafforested with pine trees.

935

Chajarí

MESOPOTAMIA C Accommodation in Chajarí

@ @ @ @

Hotel del Sol, Urquiza 1040 Hotel Caribe I, Entre Ríos 3155 A Residencial Central, Belgrano 990 B Residencial Regina, Sarmiento 2863

*** *

420017 421111 420884 421345

$F $G $H $H

2 2 2 2

$G

2

Accommodation on RN 14 * *** *

Hotel Caribe II, KM 330 @ 421111 Motel Saint Laurence, Circunvalación near intersection with Tres Hermanas @ 420946 Motel Suiza, KM 426 @ 421738

A Festivals •

•

S Buses

•

Fiesta Provincial del Encuentro Nacional e Internacional de Folklore (Provincial and International Traditional Festival): January Fiesta Provincial de la Citricultura (Provincial Citrus-Growing Festival): November

•

B Tourist information

•

•

•

•

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Sarmiento 2515 @ 421241 fax 420135 Arca de Entrada a ciudad de Chajarí, at the town’s entrance @ (03456) 421241 fax (03456) 420135/747

D Camping •

Balneario Municipal “Ciudad de Chajarí”, 17 ha (42 acres) on the banks of Embalse Salto Grande. Cabins are available $H for 4

•

E Eating out

U Motoring

•

Restaurant La Cabaña, Baloni 1625. Parrilla • Restaurant San Telmo, Moreno 1875 Eating out on RN 14 • La Estancia. Parrilla

•

Salsa Disco, Alberdi

I Post and telegraph • •

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Entre Ríos near Jaime Tabeni Telephone: Telecom Argentina, Entre Ríos 1590

From Chajarí Lago Salto Grande and the tourist villages surrounding the lake are easily accessible. Federación (page 953) on the south side of the lake has a casino.

Banco de la Provincia de Entre Ríos, Urquiza 1400

Chajarí

Museo Regional “Camila Quiroga”, Respetto near Fochezatto. An old mansion with an exhibition of artifacts from Chajarí’s past. Also regional handicrafts on sale. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–19:00 Museo de Artes Visuales (Visual Art Museum), Urquiza 636. Permanent exhibition of paintings, sculptures, photographs

s Excursions

L Financial •

Shell, H. Yrigoyen 3115

p Sightseeing

•

n Entertainment •

Ciudad de Paraná, Ciudad de Gualeguaychú, S.O.T.A., TATA/ Central El Rápido; for services see Buses from Concepción del Uruguay on page 944 and Buses from Concordia on page 949 Empresa Ciudad de Paraná runs1 service daily to Paraná via Concordia Ciudad de Gualeguaychú and TATA-Central El Rápido run 4–5 services daily to Gualeguaychú Flecha Bus and Empresa S.O.T.A. run 5 services daily to Concordia; S.O.T.A. also goes twice daily to Mocoretá just across the border in Corrientes Province, and also runs one service daily to La Paz Empresa San José, J.M. Estrada @ 420942 runs daily services to Colón via Villaguay, Viale, Victoria, and Crespo

936

ENTRE RÍOS •

those with an adventurous spirit but a tour operator is suggested for visiting those areas

La Selva de Montiel: Not far from the town the native forest is still in its original state. Some of the forest is still impenetrable and is in sharp contrast with the haciendas which you pass on the way to the selva. This is for

COLÓN

Colón Population: 16 000 Postal code: 3280 @ area code: (03447) Altitude: 26 m Distances From Paraná: 261 km eastwards on RN 18 then south-east on RN 130 • From Concepción del Uruguay: 37 km north on RN 14 •

C

olón was founded in 1863. It is situated on the Río Uruguay, whose long, white beaches attract many visitors here. There are imposing cliffs along some parts of the river in this area; they can be seen from a considerable distance and are very picturesque. The Puente Internacional General Artigas — a toll bridge — links Colón with Paysandú in Uruguay. Temperatures average 30°C (85°F) in summer and 9°C (48°F) in winter. Much of the population here is of Swiss–French origin.

San Martín is the main shopping street, and streets intersecting

C Accommodation in Colón Hotels ***** *** **

** ** * * *

Internacional Quirinale I, Avenida H Quirós 185 @ 421133 Fax 421532; on the beach; casino ACDEFGHJKLMNPRS$TUVXYZ Palmar, Ferrari 295 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 421952 Fax 421948 Nuevo Hotel Plaza, 12 de Abril near Belgrano opposite Plaza San Martín Fax 421129; e-mail: [email protected] AEFGJLPSUV @ 421043 Palmar (Anexo), Bulevar Ferrari 285 AEFGJLPSUV @ 421948 Río de los Pájaros, 25 de Mayo 10 AEFGJLPUV @ 421862 Furuto, Urquiza 168 @ 421269 Holimasú, Belgrano 28 AELPSV @ 421305 Vieja Calera del Rincón de Espiro, Bolívar 344 near Maipú AEFLPSV @ 421139

Residenciales A A B B

Aridán, Alvear 50 near San Martín LP Paysandú, Avenida Paysandú near Maipú LP Emi, Noailles near Güemes L Ver-Wei, 25 de Mayo 10 L

Accommodation on RN 14 *

Motel Colón, 12 km south Access to international bridge

AELPV

937

@ @ @ @

421830 421140 421642 421972

@

422144

$D

2

$E

2

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Colón

MESOPOTAMIA Eating out in Balneario Piedras Coloradas • Restaurant Piedras Coloradas, on the beach front. Parrilla

San Martín change their names after crossing it. Only the main streets are sealed. The Río Uruguay is about 1 km wide here, and the flow of water is regulated by the flood gates at the Embalse Salto Grande.

n Entertainment

A Festivals

• • •

B Tourist information

•

•

Fiesta Nacional de la Artesanía (National Craft Festival): February

•

I Post and telegraph

Centro Municipal de Turismo, corner of Avenida Costanera and Gouchón @ 421233 fax 421009

•

•

Camping Santiago Inkier, Camino Costero Sur, on the Río Uruguay, capacity 140 tents. Hot water, laundry, kiosk, toilets, restaurant; Open Nov–March. $J per tent

Restaurant Don Joaquín, Urquiza 166. Parrilla • Restaurant El Faro, San Martín west. Parrilla • Restaurant La Rueda, San Martín 150 near 3 de Febrero. Parrilla • Restaurant Quirinale, Avenida Quirós 185 • Pizzería La Cabaña, 9 de Julio 35 • Cafetería El Ciervo de Oro, San Martín near Sourigues. Hamburgers • Cafetería El Palmar, Bulevar Ferrari 295 Eating out on Camino Costero Sur • Restaurant El Mangrullo, Camping Inkier

C D E I T

Iglesia Santos Justos y Pastor Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Argentina Centro Municipal de Turismo Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 3 6

Residencial Paysandú Residencial Aridán Hotel Vieja Calera del Rincón de Espiro

Colón

Uruguayan Consulate, San Martín 417 @ 421999. Open Mon–Fri 07:00–15:00

Q Border crossing

•

A

BERSA, 12 de Abril 351. ATM

P Visas, passports

•

E Eating out

Key to map

Post office: Correo Argentino, 12 de Abril 431 Telephone: Telecom Argentina, 12 de Abril 336. Shopping center local 7

L Financial

D Camping •

Casino Hotel Quirinale, Brown Disco Kaimán, Laprida east Mediterráneo, Peyret near Alberdi. Dancing

There are border checkpoints on both sides of the international bridge, but procedures are fairly relaxed. Visitors passing into Uruguay must pay a toll to use the road.

U Motoring Service stations • Shell, San Martín near Salta

Y Shopping

•

Centro Artesanal La Casona, 12 de Abril 106 near J.J. Paso. The Fiesta de la Artesanía is held here in February

Hotel Nuevo Hotel Plaza Hotel Holimasú Hotel Río de los Pájaros Hotel Futuro Hotel Internacional Quirinale I 19 Hotel Palmar

5 Entertainment

4 Eating out

2 5 10 13

7 8 9 14 17

4 Pizzería La Cabaña 11 Restaurant La Rueda 16 Restaurant Don Joaquín

938

18 Casino Hotel Quirinale

7 Tour operators

12 Turismo Paccot 15 Turismo La Flecha

0 Services

Náutica Río Uruguay Uruguayan Consulate BERSA Centro Artesanal La Casona

ENTRE RÍOS s Excursions

Shopping in San José • Casa del Artesano, Urquiza 1119

Tour operators • Ita y Cora, @ 421256. Hydroplane excursions • LHL, 12 de Abril 162 @ 422222. Excursions to historic sites around Colón; from $15.00

a Sport •

Golf: Golf Club Colón, Sarmiento al Norte @ (03447) 421081/421430; nine holes Mini Golf, Camping Los Tilos, Andrade on Río Uruguay

•

To Concordia

COLÓN

PAYSANDÚ

T

1 2

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Río Uruguay

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I

8

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ALVEAR COT

To concepción del Uruguay

A

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13

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16 18

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939

Colón

MESOPOTAMIA S Buses from Colón

The bus terminal is on the corner of Sourriges and Paysandú. Refer also to Buses from Paraná on page 971, from Concordia on page 949, and from Gualeguaychú on page 961. Bus companies • Derudder Hnos S.R.L., M. Moreno 408 @ 423728 ° Villa Elisa via Concepción del Uruguay, Concordia, and Victoria • Empresa El Lalo ° San Salvador (23 4 hrs); 1 daily • Flecha Bus ° Villaguay (3 4 hrs); 2 daily • Empresa Paccot ° Concepción del Uruguay ($3.50; 1 hour); 2 daily ° San Salvador (23 4 hrs); 1 daily • TATA/Central El Rápido ° Gualeguaychú via San José (1 2 hour), Concepción del Uruguay ($3.50; 1 hr); 1 daily ° Villaguay (3 4 hr) via San José (1 2 hour) and Villa Elisa; 1 daily Long-distance services • • •

Destination Fares Buenos Aires $20.00 Córdoba $27.50 Paysandú (Uruguay) $4.00

Services 5 daily 4 weekly

Company El Rápido/TATA, Flechabus, Itatí El Litoral

3 daily

Línea Internacional

•

•

Náutica Río Uruguay, Maipú 364 @ 421696. This company organizes sailing trips on the Río Uruguay • Turismo La Flecha, Moreno 408 @ 421295 • Turismo Paccot, 12 de Abril 280 @ 421900 Excursions • Molino Forclaz: 4 km on the road to San José. Built by Juan Bautista Forclaz, a Swiss-French immigrant. This flour mill built in 1890 was the first in the area • San José. Although closer to Concepción del Uruguay, tour operators in Colón organize tours to this interesting national monument; see San José on page 975 • Concepción del Uruguay: See page 941

Colón

•

•

940

Parque Nacional El Palmar: Approximately 50 km north, halfway to Concordia. To get to the park from Colón take a bus to Concordia and let the driver know you want to get off at the entrance to the national park. Tour companies operate half-day excursions from Colón. See page 973 Paysandú and Termas de Guaviyú, both in Uruguay: Tour companies operate a 10-hour excursion to neighboring Uruguay, crossing the Río Uruguay at the Puente Internacional General Artigas (General Artigas International Bridge). There is a toll of $10.00 to cross the bridge. Expreso Itapé runs bus services from Colón to Paysandú Villa Elisa: See page 980

ENTRE RÍOS

CONCEPCIÓN DEL URUGUAY

Concepción del Uruguay Population: 65 000 Postal code: 3260 @ area code: (03442) Altitude: 16 m Distances From Paraná: 280 km eastwards on RN 14 • From Buenos Aires: 320 km north-west on RN 12 and RP 39 •

T

he large river port of Concepción del Uruguay is located on an arm of the Río Uruguay, called the Riacho Itapé. It was founded in 1783 by Don Tomás de Rocamora and was the provincial capital until 1883. The city center is the Plaza General Francisco Ramírez, named after the

man known as “El Supremo Entrerriano”, an untranslateable

C Accommodation in Concepción del Uruguay

There is a lot of cheap accommodation near the bus terminal. Apart Hotels Playas del Uruguay, Ugarteche near Galarza AELPV Río Sol, Bv. Irigoyen 474 access to Banco Pelay AELPV Sur Hotel, J.D. Perón 830 near Ingeniero Pereyra AELPV

@

427031

@

427602

@

424230

$G

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Carlos I, Eva Perón 115 AEFGJLPUVYZ Grand Hotel, Eva Perón 114 AEFGJLPUVY General Francisco Ramírez, Martínez 60 near Galarza Fax 428710 AELPVY Gran Litoral, Rocamora 1406 AELPV Near the bus terminal Río Hotel, Bulevar Mitre 170 near Segui AELPV

@ @

426776 422851

$F $F

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@

425107

@ @

425644 426755

$F

2

@ @ @ @

427429 427016 422962 425461

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422731

@

440017

$F

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427152 424662

• Casa de Campo, 2 km north on RN 14 @ • Santa Cándida, 10 km from town opposite Balneario Itapé @

422523 422188

* * *

Hotels ** ** * * *

Residenciales A A A B B

Centro, Moreno 130 LP Fiuri, Sarmiento 779 LP Grumette, Artigas 56 LP La Posada, Moreno 116 L Los Tres Nenes, Galarza 1233 near Scelzi L Near bus terminal

Accommodation outside Concepción del Uruguay Hotels *

Virrey, J. González 2075

AELPV

Cabañas

• Banco Pelay, on the road to Banco Pelay • La Salamanca, Ave. La Fraternidad, Costa Norte E

Vacations on estancias

941

Concepción del Uruguay

MESOPOTAMIA •

phrase meaning “the greatest resident of Entre Ríos” or “the great man from Entre Ríos”. A pyramid has been erected in the plaza in his honor. There are 5 km of sandy beaches within walking distance of the city center. The average temperature in summer is 30°C (85°F), and in winter 18°C (64°F). The town has many historical buildings from last century such as the Colegio Nacional, the Basilica de la Inmaculada Concepción, Palacio Santa Cándida. It has a very colorful carnival season. It is also a seat of learning with three major universities. Overseas container ships can berth here. The area around Concepción del Uruguay bears the hallmarks of one of the great sons of Argentina: General J.J. de Urquiza. His birthplace is 13 km north of Concepción, halfway to Colón just before crossing Arroyo Urquiza.

B Tourist information

•

•

•

•

•

Carnaval: February Fiesta Nacional de la Playa (National Beach Festival): January. Held in Banco Pelay, just outside Concepción

Key to map A C D E I $ T

Basilica de La Imaculada Concepción Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Central Telecom Subsecretaría Municipal de Turismo Banco de Entre Ríos Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 2

Hotel Gran Litoral Hotel General Francisco Ramírez 3 Residencial Los Tres Nenes 12 Residencial Fiuri 15 Residencial Centro

Concepción del Uruguay

16 20 22 24 26

17 19 21 23

Camping Municipal Banco Pelay, 3 km from town on the Río Uruguay, capacity 800 tents. Access on a rough road. Hot water, kiosk, showers, laundry, toilets. Fishing Balneario Camping Pelay. Located on Isla de las Garzas in the Río Uruguay. Capacity for 1500 campsites. Most services are only open during the December–February vacation Camping Club Regatas, Bulevar Yrigoyen 16 @ 427962. Capacity for 100 tents. Toilets, showers, hot water, restaurant, boat ramp, fishing Isla Natural Cambacua. Located in the Río Uruguay opposite Isla del Puerto. Catamaran services. Beaches and native trees and shrubs. Facilities include a small cafeteria and toilets

E Eating out Restaurants • El Peregrino, Rocamora 826

Residencial La Posada Hotel Carlos I Hotel Grand Hotel Residencial Grumette Hotel Río Hotel

4 Eating out 5 6 9 10 13

Subsecretaría Municipal de Turismo, 9 de Julio 844 @ 425820 fax 423676; e-mail: webmaster@entre-rios. com.ar Subcomisión de Promoción y Difusión Turística, Posadas 861 @ 428459

D Camping

•

A Festivals • •

Fiesta de Concepción del Uruguay: 25th June. Commemorates the founding of the town

Jockey Club Uruguay Pizza House Pizzería San Remo Restaurant El Peregrino Restaurant Los Verdes Años Restaurant Isondú Restaurant Filippini Restaurant La Taberna de Franz Cafetería La Taberna

942

5 Entertainment

7 Disco Berlin 11 Cine Teatro San Martín 18 Disco Búfalo

9 Sights

14 Cabildo 25 Museo Histórico Provincial Casa del Dr. Delio Panizza

0 Services 4

General Urquiza railroad station 8 Subcomisión de Promoción y Difusión Turística 27 Port area

ENTRE RÍOS To Colón

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943

B IA U R

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Concepción del Uruguay

MESOPOTAMIA •

• • •

Filippini, Rocamora 654 near Eva Perón. Parrilla Isondú, Eva Perón 90 near Rocamora La Costera, Bulevar H. Yrigoyen 150 La Delfina, Eva Perón near Rocamora La Taberna de Franz, Eva Perón 165. German cuisine Los Verdes Años, Mitre 764. Vegetarian

• • • • •

Disco Rys, Urquiza near Galarza Disco Búfalo, 25 de Mayo 130 Peña Folklórica Sapucay Tagué

I Post and telegraph

• •

Pizzerías • La Casona del Tano, J.D. Perón 585 • La Peatonal, Urquiza near Peatonal • Pizza House, Alem 75 • San Remo, 9 de Julio 833 Cafeterías • La Taberna, Eva Perón 134 • Rys, Urquiza near Galarza

Post office: Correo Central, Galarza 702 near 25 de Mayo Telephone: Telecom, 25 de Mayo near Posadas

L Financial

•

Banco de Entre Ríos, Galarza 690 @ 423396

U Motoring

n Entertainment

The roads to Paraná and Colón are both sealed. Service stations • A.C.A., 9 de Julio near Ugarteche. Road maps available

•

•

• •

Berlín, Rocamora 864. Disco Casino, Galarza near J.D. Perón on Plaza Ramírez Cine Teatro San Martín, Estrada 820

# Water transport

Catamarán Logopé @ 427421

S Buses from Concepción del Uruguay

The bus terminal is on Bulevar Martínez 52 @ 422352. See also Buses from Paraná on 971, from Gualaguaychú on page 961, and from Concordia on page 949. Bus companies • Central El Rápido @ 427117 • Ciudad de Gualeguaychú @ 426318 • Derudder Hnos SRL, G. Galarza 840 @ 429948 ° Villa Elisa via Concordia, Colón and Victoria • Expreso Itapé, J.B. Alberdi 1500 @ 425680 ° Concordia (3 hrs) via Colón ($3.50; 3 4 hour) and Parque Nacional El Palmar; 2-4 daily ° Rosario del Tala (2 hrs): 2 daily • Empresa San Miguel ° Villaguay (31 2 hrs): 3 daily • Flecha Bus @ 427000 • TATA/Central El Rápido. TATA goes past Parque Nacional El Palmar but does not pick up or set down passengers. ° Chajarí (5 hrs) via Colón ($2.20; 3 4 hrs), San José, Concordia (3 hrs); 2–3 daily ° Colón (3 4 hrs; $3.50) via San José (1 hour); 1 daily ° Federación (4 hrs) ° Gualeguaychú ($4.00); 1 daily ° Villaguay (31 2 hrs) via Colón ($3.50; 3 4 hrs), San José, and Villa Elisa (13 4 hrs); 2 daily Long-distance services • • •

Destination Fares Buenos Aires $18.00 Flechabus Paysandú (Uruguay) Posadas $35.20

Concepción del Uruguay

Services

Company TATA/Central El Rápido,

2 Mon–Sat 2 daily

Empresa Copay Expreso Singer

944

ENTRE RÍOS ° ° °

•

Banco Pelay and islands ($7.00; 11 2 hrs) Colón ($10.00; 1 hr) Playa Cambacuá: ($2.00 one way)

Y Shopping

s Excursions

The main shopping street is 9 de Julio. • Artesanías La Rueda, Urquiza 638

Tour operators • 3 de Febrero, Bv. Yrigoyen 1068 @ 425805 • Flechabus, Galarza 848 @ 49948 Excursions • Museo Palacio de San José: 32 km west. The turnoff from RN 131 to the palace is 24 km west before passing through the village of Caseros; from here it is another 8 km north-west. Construction on this palatial home began in 1848 and was completed in 1857. This sumptuous palace was the home of J.J. de Urquiza when he ruled the Argentine Federation. The style is a mixture of Italian renaissance and colonial style. General J.J. de Urquiza was murdered here in 1870. All 38 of its rooms lead onto one of three patios. The Corinthian-style chapel is also of interest. The museum has an exhibition of lances and swords from the Battle of Caseros, as well as furniture and coins, including the only metal coin ever minted in Entre Ríos, the “Medio Entrerriano”. It also served as a meeting place for important personalities of the time. Many treaties were signed here, and among the illustrious visitors were Sarmiento and Mitre, both opposed to the rule of the dictator Rosas. He was supposed to have fathered over a hundred children, most of whom he recognized, hence the name Urquiza is widespread in Entre Ríos Province. The site is now a national monument. Tour companies operate half-day tours to the museum; admission $2.50. By tour operator $10.00

a Sport •

•

• • •

Empresa Sibsaya is a major producer of fine aperitivos. The plant can be inspected but prior arrangements have to be made. Try Amargo Camba, one of their famous products

Fishing: Pejerrey, surubí, pacú, and bagres. The Dirección de Recursos Naturales has a list of boat owners. The season runs from October to March Golf: Club Universitario (C.U.)RP 39 Barrio Hipódromo, 7 km from center; nine holes. Two open championships are held every year in May and October Golf: Palacio Santa Cándida, 9 km from town; nine holes Horse racing: Jockey Club Uruguay, Alberdi 878 Water sports: Yacht Club Entrerriano, Avenida La Fraternidad.

p Sightseeing

Most of the historical sights in town are around Plaza Francisco Ramírez. In the center of this Plaza is a pyramid with an inscription from J.J. de Urquiza directed against the dictator Rosas. • Cabildo, San Martín near Moreno. Formerly the town hall, this historic building is now the police headquarters • Museo Histórico Provincial Casa del Dr. Delio Panizza (Provincial Historical Museum Casa Del Dr. Delio Panizza), corner of Supremo Entrerriano 58 near Galarza. This is supposedly the house in which Francisco Ramírez spent his early years. It is the oldest house in town and was built around 1793. Open Tues–Sun 09:00–12:00 and 16:00–19:00 • Basilica de la Imaculada Concepción, built in 1859. J.J. de Urquiza is buried here

945

Concepción del Uruguay

MESOPOTAMIA

CONCORDIA

Concordia Population: 118 000 Postal code: 3200 @ area code: (0345) Altitude: 17 m Distances From Paraná: 262 km east on RN 18 • From Colón: 105 km north on RN 14 •

C

oncordia is located on the east bank of the Río Uruguay, which forms the border between Argentina and Uruguay. It was officially founded in 1832, although people had settled here as early as 1769, at which time the river was called the Salto Chico. This early settlement was really not much more than a cluster of ranches with a chapel dedicated to San Antonio. It suffered heavily during the Wars of Independence, and finally disappeared completely in 1820. The Catedral San Antonio de Padua was completed in 1899.

The present city overlooks the river, and there is a ferry service over to Salto in Uruguay. The climate is pleasant all year round, with temperatures averaging 30°C (85°F) in summer and 10°C (50°F) in winter. Some 14 km upriver is the joint Argentine–Uruguayan hydroelectric scheme at Salto Grande. The huge lake created by the dam, Embalse Salto Grande is used for water sports.

Key to map A D E H I P $ T

Catedral San Antonio de Padua Correo Argentino Telephone Hospital Dirección Municipal de Turismo A.C.A. Banco de Galicia y Buenos Aires Long-distance bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 7 11 13 17

Residencial Embajador Residencial Florida Residencial Colón Hotel Federico I Hotel Salto Grande

Concordia

20 22 24 25 29

Economically it is the second most important city in Entre Ríos Province after Paraná.

A Festivals

•

B Tourist information

• •

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Urquiza 634 on Plaza 25 de Mayo @ 4212137 fax 4213491 Centro de Información del A.C.A., Pellegrini near Corrientes 1 4213478

Residencial Argentino Hotel Casino Palmar Residencial Concordia Hotel Centro Residencial Colonial

4 Eating out 3 6 12 15 16 18 19 21 23 26 27 28

Fiesta Nacional de La Citricultura (National Citrus-Growing Festival): December

Restaurant El Abrojito Restaurant La Posta Cafetería Cristóbal Restaurant Pekin Restaurant De la Plaza Restaurant La Estancia Restaurant El Rey del Bife Restaurant Dos Naciones Restaurant Imperial Restaurant La Capilla Restaurant La Casona Restaurant Club Libertad

946

5 Entertainment

2 Peña La Chamarrita 5 Crazy Pub 10 Disco Barcelona

6 Airline offices 14 L.A.E.R.

9 Sights 4

Museo Regional

0 Services 8 9 30 31

Uruguayan consulate Casa de Cambio Tourfe Ferry terminal General Urquiza railroad station

ENTRE RÍOS D Camping

restaurant; boat hire, fishing. $J per tent/trailer

Camping on Lago Salto Grande • La Tortuga Alegre, 10 km north of town. Hot water, showers, toilets, To Federación R. RO JA S

CONCORDIA

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Concordia

MESOPOTAMIA C Accommodation in Concordia Hotels **** ** ** *

Salto Grande, J.J.de Urquiza 581 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 4210034; e-mail: [email protected] @ 4210034 Centro, La Rioja 543 near Buenos Aires AEFGJLPUV @ 4217776 fax Casino Palmar, J.J.de Urquiza 517 ADEFGHJLPRSUVY Fax 4215020 @ 4216050 Federico I, 1 de Mayo 248 AELPV @ 4225595

Residenciales A Colón, Pellegrini 611 FLP A Embajador, Avenida San Lorenzo 75 LP Near bus terminal Argentino, Pellegrini 560 Colonial, Pellegrini 443 Concordia, La Ríoja 518 Florida, H. Yrigoyen 715

B B B B

L L L EHLPU

Youth Hostels

• Albergue Municipal, Salto Uruguay near San Juan ABER

$E

2

$G

2

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2 2

@

4220373

$H

2

@ @ @ @ @

4213018 4215797 4221448 4216869 4216536

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$G $G

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@

4217083

@

4310725

$F

2

@

4310456

@

4211112

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@

4903014

$F

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Accommodation in Parque Rivadavia Hotels ***

San Carlos Inn ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 4310729; e-mail: [email protected]

Accommodation on Playa Nebe A Residencial Bethania, Coldaroli Accommodation on Lago Salto Grande Hotels ***

Ayui Resort, access road to the crossing into Uruguay ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

Accommodation on RN 14 Motels **

Concordia, KM 440

AEFGJLPUV

• •

E Eating out Restaurants • De la Plaza, 1 de Mayo 59. Parrilla • Dos Naciones, 1 de Mayo 123 • El Abrojito, Pellegrini 1203. Parrilla • El Rey del Bife, Pellegrini 594 near 1 de Mayo. Parrilla • Imperial, Urquiza 507. International cuisine • La Cabaña, 1 de Mayo 14 • La Capilla, Pellegrini 498. International cuisine • La Casona, Saenz Peña 123 & • La Estancia, 1 de Mayo 95 near Pellegrini. Parrilla • La Posta, Catamarca 80

Concordia

•

Los Sauces, Avenida Costanera La Posada de Suárez, Club Viajantes, Avenida Costanera. Parrilla Pekin, Entre Ríos 582

Pizzería • El Reloj, J.B. Justo near N Garat Cafeterías and pubs • Crazy Pub, Velez Sarsfield 420 • Cristóbal, Pellegrini 607 near 1 de Mayo • Mafalda, Entre Ríos near 3 de Febrero Eating out in Parque Rivadavia • Restaurant La Barra (Hotel San Carlos), Avenida E. Perón. Parrilla

948

ENTRE RÍOS S Buses from Concordia

The municipal bus terminal is on the corner of Pellegrini and Alberdi; the long-distance terminal is on J.B. Justo near H. Yrigoyen. See also Buses from Paraná on page 971. Bus companies • Derudder Hnos S.R.L @ 4214182 ° Villa Elisa via Concepción del Uruguay, Victoria, and Colón • Empresa Ciudad de Paraná @ 4219981 ° Villaguay (2 hrs); 1 daily • Empresa Feliciano ° San José de Feliciano (3 1 2 hrs); 1 daily • Expreso Las Charrúas ° Federal (21 2 hrs): 1 daily • Expreso Singer, H. Yrigoyen @ 4212594 • Flecha Bus, Almte G. Brown 628 @ 4220161 ° Chajarí (13 4 hrs) via Concordia and Federación (1 hour); 3 daily • S.O.T.A. ° Federal (21 2 hrs): 1 daily ° Mocoretá (Corrientes Province; 21 2 hrs) via Concordia, Federación (1 hour), and Chajarí (13 4 hrs); 2 daily • TATA/Central El Rápido, San Luis 1475 @ 4213052 ° Chajarí (13 4 hrs); 1 daily ° Concepción del Uruguay via Concordia, Colón ($5.50; 21 4 hrs) and San José; 1 daily ° Federación (1 hour): 1 daily Long -distance services •

Destination Buenos Aires

•

Córdoba

• • • • •

Corrientes La Plata Posadas Resistencia Salto (Uruguay)

Fares $23.00

Services 5 daily

$2.40

4 daily

Duration Company 6 hrs Bus Itapé, Flechabus,Expreso Caraza, TATA/Central El Rápido Ciudad de Paraná, Singer, El Litoral El Cometa, Empresa Tala Flecha Bus, El Cometa, Tala Crucero del Norte, Singer El Cometa, Nuevo Expreso Chadre Bus, Flechabus

n Entertainment

L Financial

• •

•

Barcelona, San Martín 41. Disco Disco Ezequiel, J.B. Justo near B. de Cepeda • Peña La Chamarrita, San Luis 1245. Fridays only Entertainment in Parque Rivadavia • Disco Hostal del Río, below Hotel San Carlos on river

• •

P Visas, passports

•

I Post and telegraph • •

Banco de Galicia y Buenos Aires, 1 de Mayo 91. ATM Casa de Cambio Tourfe, Bulevar Mitre 43 near J.J. de Urquiza. Casa Julio, 1 de Mayo 12 Uruguayan consulate, Entre Ríos 652 @ 4210380. Open Mon–Fri 07:30–15:30

R Air services

Post Office: Correo Argentino, H. Yrigoyen 575 Telephones: San Luis 732 near A. Del Valle

Airlines • L.A.E.R., La Rioja 622 @ 4211551

949

Concordia

MESOPOTAMIA C Accommodation in Federación Hotels *** * *

Costa del Sol, Las Azaleas 28 AEFKSZ Termas, Antártida Argentina near Paraná del Lago, 25 de Marzo near Irigoyen

@ @ @

482029/30 fax $E/F 481904 $H 481424 $H

2 2 2

@ @

481554 481952

$F $G

2 2

@ @ @ @

481389 481389 481810 481850

$H $H

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$F

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@

481679

$G

2

@

481544

Hosterías ** *

Salto Grande, Concepción del Uruguay 511 AEFP Palmas del Lago, Martín J. Thompson 266

Residenciales and Hospedajes A B • • •

Magricar, Pro. d’Angelo 46 del Norte, Caseros 582 Federación, Las Azaleas P El Descanso, Las Camelias near Pio XII Complejo Jardín, Avenida Las Violetas Near Inmaculada Concepción • Pensión familiar, Las Azaleas near H. Yrigoyen ACDPY

•

p Sightseeing

Aerolíneas Argentinas, Galería Entre Ríos local 333 @ 4213350

•

U Motoring

•

The roads to Buenos Aires, Posadas, and Paraná are all sealed. Service stations • A.C.A., Corrientes 104. Information and maps • Shell, corner of J.J. de Urquiza and Catamarca

# Water transport

Take bus 2, marked “Puerto”, to get to the ferry terminal. Ferry tickets are available from the small kiosk at the terminal. • Salto (Uruguay): Fare $3.50; 5 services weekdays, 4 services on Sat; 15 minutes

s Excursions Tour operators • Flecha Bus, Brown 628 @ 4220161 • Concor-tur, Catamarca 62 @ 4212737 Excursions • Parque Nacional El Palmar: The national park is located 48 km south of Concordia and extends from the main highway, RN 14, right down to the banks of the Río Uruguay. Use a tour operator rather than the local bus. See page 973 • Complejo Vertiente de La Concordia, Ave. Monseñor Rosch @ 4252083. This thermal resort is located 10 km north of Concordia • The hydroelectric-cum-irrigation scheme at Salto Grande: This was

Y Shopping •

Artesanías Casa Brenner, Entre Ríos near 1 de Mayo

a Sport •

•

Race track: Club Hípico Concordia, Carretera Urquiza near Salto Uruguayo. Races held at Hipódromo Camba Paso RP 4, 10 km from town Golf: Concordia Golf Club, Villa Zorraquín. This is an eighteen-hole course 8 km north of the city center

Concordia

Museo Regional, Entre Ríos near Ramírez. This is the former Palacio Arrubarrena Parque Rivadavia is about 5 km out of the city, on the shores of the Río Uruguay. The circular road is occasionally used for car races. Within the grounds are the ruins of the Castilo San Carlos, a castle built in the nineteenth century by an eccentric Frenchman and then abandoned for unknown reasons. The Hotel San Carlos and a good nightclub are also in the park

950

ENTRE RÍOS •

• •

At present the facilities include Bungalows Municipales with a capacity of 52 persons. Sights include an old chapel overlooking the Río Uruguay built from basalt blocks which are quarried nearby. From the turnoff of RN 14 the 8 km are gravel. Empresa El Lucerito has daily buses from Concordia. Tourist information in Puerto Yeruá: Ave. General Roca @ (0345) 4216992 Beaches • La Tortuga Alegre. Cabañas La Tortuga @ 4211635. Camping and fishing

constructed jointly by Argentina and Uruguay and is 32 km upstream Salto in Uruguay: A short ferry trip from Concordia. Ferries depart from R.S. Peña near Parque Mitre 5 times daily on weekdays and 3 times on weekends, tickets $3.50 Termas del Daymán in Uruguay. Regular buses from Salto Puerto Yeruá, a small village of 2000 inhabitants situated 30 km south, is an idyllic spot on the banks of the Río Uruguay. The thermal waters have few facilities yet, but the city council intends to built a thermal resort here.

CRESPO

Crespo Population: 17 000 Postal code: 3116 @ area code: (0343) Distance from Paraná: 45 km south on RN 12

C

respo is located in a wide fertile plain. Because of its openess it is subject at certain times of the year to the pampeano, a strong wind coming from the pampas. It was founded in 1884. Nowadays it is center of a rich agricultural area.

A Festivals

S Buses

The festivals reflect the agricultural aspect of the community. • Fiesta Provincial de la Cerveza: January • Fiesta Nacional de la Avicultura: March

The bus terminal is on Entre Ríos near San Martín. Bus companies • Ciudad de Crespo • San José @ 4952007 • San Vicente • TATA/Central El Rápido For details of services see Buses from Paraná on page 971 and from Gualeguay on page 956. Services • Concepción del Uruguay (41 4hrs); 3 daily • Gualeguay; 2 daily • Paraná (1 hr); 11 daily

B Tourist information •

Oficina de Informes, Laurencena 943 @ 4951048 fax 4951415

C Accommodation

A Residencial Holiday, Moreno near Soñez @ 4951327 $G 2 • Hotel Crespo Hotel, San Martín near French @ 4951008

U Motoring

E Eating out • •

•

Restaurant Der Fritz, Otto Sagemüller near Sarmiento. German cuisine Restaurant El Laucha, San Martín near Belgrano

Shell, San Martín 1398

p Sightseeing

•

951

Museo Municipal de Crespo, San Martín near Independencia

Crespo

MESOPOTAMIA

DIAMANTE

Diamante Population: 17 000 Postal code: 3105 @ area code: (0343) Distance from Paraná: 50 km south on RP 12

L

ocated right on the Río Paraná, Diamante is well known for its fishing. At Diamante the Río Paraná breaks up into several streams with many large islands: the beginning of the delta of the Río Paraná.

B Tourist information

Historically Diamante is important for several reasons. It was near here at Punta Gorda that Argentina installed artillery to prevent Uruguayan ships from passing. General Lavalle and General Urquiza also set out from Diamante with their armies, the latter to the Battle of Monte Caseros where he defeated the dictator Rosas. The banks of the river are about 100 m above the water here and the area is perfect for camping, swimming, and fishing. From the banks you get sweeping views over the Río Paraná from north to south. The recently created Parque Nacional Pre-Delta La Azotea is accessible from here. The climate of this region is moderate-humid. Diamante is a melting pot of immigrants from several cultures which have blended into a cohesive economic unit. Most of the ethnic communities have founded their own villages around Diamante where they have their own churches and preserve their culture and customs.

• •

C Accommodation

A Residencial Mayo, San Martín 488 @ 4981671

D Camping

•

•

• •

Restaurant Los Amigos, Eva Perón 453 Restaurant La Estancia, 9 de Julio near Urquiza Pizzería Don Pepe, 9 de Julio near J. Hernández

Eating out on road to Punta Gorda • El Rancho de Panchita

n Entertainment

•

Fiesta de la Jineteada y Folklore (Horse-riding and Folk Festival): Gaucho festival in January Fiesta Provincial del Pescador: Fishing competition in March

Diamante

Camping Municipal Valle de la Ensenada. Located 12 km south of town on the Arroyo Ensenada, a small brook. Capacity: 400 tents; there are also bungalows and some cabins for rent. Nearby is an artificial lake, hire of water sports equipment, surrounding forests, and access to a sandy beach. Hot water, showers, barbecue, restaurant

E Eating out

•

A Festivals •

Dirección de Deportes Recreación y Turismo, Sarmiento near Belgrano @ 4981024 fax 4982096 Tourist information Parque Nacional Pre-Delta La Azotea, Irigoyen near Valentín Vergara 396 @ (0343) 4981128

Open Disco Pub, Sarmiento 484

I Post and telegraph

• •

952

Post office: Correo Argentino, Belgrano near Alberdi Telephone: Cabina Pública, Belgrano 668 and España 630

ENTRE RÍOS S Buses

s Excursions

The bus terminal is on Sarmiento near Belgrano. See also bus services from Paraná on page 971 and Gualeguay on page 956 • Ciudad de Diamante ° Victoria; 1 daily • Empresa El Indio (E.R.) ° Viale via Crespo; 1–2 daily • TATA @ 4981755 • CODTA, J.M. Estrada 219 @ 4981644 • Flecha Bus, Bvar Tiro Federal @ 4982871

Tour operators • Davimar, Eva Perón near Dasso @ 4982958 Tours • Area Natural Protegida La Azotea: This recently created national park is 6 km from town and includes several islands at the beginning of the Río Paraná delta; altogether it covers 2500 ha (6178 acres), some of it is usually inundated when the river rises. Access is by boat. The area is dotted with sandy beaches and the islands are covered with shrubs and trees; along the many rivers and canals are gallery forests. There is a rich birdlife which is also an indicator of the abundant fish. This is an area for the nature lover and sport fisherman • Valle de la Ensenada: See Camping above

Y Shopping •

Regionales Diamante, 3 de Febrero near San Lorenzo

a Sport •

Club Náutico, Avenida Costanera. Restaurant

FEDERACIÓN

Federación Population: 8000 Postal code: 3206 @ area code: (03456) Altitude: 31 m Distance from Paraná: 315 km south-west on RN 14 and RN 18

F

ederación began as a natural outgrowth of the town of Mandisoví which was founded in 1810 by General Belgrano. It was founded as a city in its own right in 1847. Located on the shores of Embalse Salto Grande, the lake created by the hydroelectric scheme at Salto Grande, the modern town was designed by Don Manuel Urdinarrain. The mainspring of the town’s economy is timber and tourism. It is ideally situated for water sports, and there are several boat ramps along the shores of the lake.

A Festivals

It is also known as “La Ciudad Termal” — the thermal water comes from a depth of 1200 m and at a temperature of 43°C (104°F). At the moment there are six open-air thermal pools and one inside pool with hydromassage on a 9 ha complex, giving rise to a thermal complex-cum-hotel.

• •

Fiesta Nacional del Lago (National Lake Festival): 2nd week in January Fiesta del Carnaval: February

B Tourist information

•

953

Departamento Municipal de Turismo, San Martín 133 near Las Hortensias @ 481586/482049 fax 481419

Federación

•

• S.O.T.A. • TATA/Central El Rápido Services • Buenos Aires ($33.00); 4 services daily • Chajarí; 6 daily • Colón; 3 daily • Concepción del Uruguay; 3 daily • Concordia (2 hrs); 11 daily • Gualeguaychú; 3 daily • Mocoretá (Corrientes); 2 daily • Paraná; 3 daily • Viale; 3 daily • Villaguay; 3 daily

Zona Portuaria, Marina Sur. Inquire here for information about launch cruises

D Camping •

Camping Las Palmeras, Avenida Costanera near Los Jazmines @ 481586. Capacity: 80 tents. Located on the lake

E Eating out • • •

Restaurant Yan-Yul, Avenida San Martín 52 Cafetería Arce, Avenida San Martín 26, local 21 Cafetería Keop’s, Avenida Entre Ríos 237, local 44

# Water transport

The launch Ciudad de Federación does weekend trips to nearby beaches and to Termas de Arapey in Uruguay. The launch Eleuteria-R does daily trips to Santa Ana and nearby beaches.

n Entertainment • •

Casino Provincial, Avenida Las Violetas near Inmaculada Concepción Jeunesse Disco, Yrigoyen near 25 de Mayo

U Motoring

•

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Avenida San Martín 124 Telephone: Telecom Argentina, Pellegrini near 25 de Mayo

p Sightseeing

•

M Services •

•

Service station: Shell, Avenida Entre Ríos near Salto Grande

Admission to the thermal complex costs $2.00; it is open from 07:00 to 24:00. Admission to the thermal spa costs $12.00 Laundromat: Laverap, Racedo near Mandisoví •

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Entre Ríos near Las Violetas. Bus companies • Ciudad de Paraná • Ciudad de Gualeguaychú • Flechabus

Museo de los Asentamientos, Irigoyen near Las Rosas. Located in the former colonial church building which was dismantled and reassembled in this spot now. On exhibit are interesting historical pieces from the colonial period and pictures of the old settlement before the lake was created. Open Tues–Sun 09:00–12:00 and 14:00–18:00. Also selling semiprecious stones like agates Mirador Centro Cívico at the central town hall building. The top floor of this administration building has a viewing platform, with views over the town and the lake

FEDERAL

Federal Postal code: 3180 @ area code: (03454) Distance from Paraná: 201 km north on RN 12 then RN 127

954

ENTRE RÍOS

F

ederal is located in the central northern part of the province. It is a very traditional place with old gaucho bars and chamameceras dancing. Fiesta del Chamamé is held every year and attracts many visitors.

B Tourist information •

of bus services see Buses from Paraná on page 971, from Gualeguay on page 957, and from Concordia on page 949 Bus companies • El Aguila • Expreso Las Charrúas • San Vicente • S.T.A. • TATA/Central El Rápido.

Información Turística, Antelo 505, @ 421309, fax 421098

C Accommodation

A Residencial Federal, Artusi 1194 near Irigoyen AFLP @ 421050 B Residencial Copacabana, Belgrano @ 421092 $H 2

E Eating out • •

Services • Concordia (21 2 hrs); 2 daily • Gualeguay; 1 daily • Paraná (41 4 hrs); 1 daily • Villaguay (31 2 hrs); 1 daily

Comedor terminal, Donovan near Belgrano Restaurant Cachencho, Colateral Aguirre Almada. Parrilla

U Motoring

I Post and telegraph •

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Donovan

Shell service station, RN 127 near Urquiza

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Donovan near Belgrano; it has a restaurant. For details

GUALEGUAY

Gualeguay Population: 31 000 Postal code: 2840 @ area code: (03444) Distance from Paraná: 238 km south-east on RN 12

G

ualeguay was founded in 1783 by Tomás de Rocamora. It is located in the southern part of the province on the Río Gualeguay, about 30 km north of its junction with the Río Paraná. The swampy area along the Río Paraná starts nearby, just south of Puerto Ruiz, 8 km south. Gualeguay is a quiet provincial town which offers good fishing in the Río Gualeguay and Río Cle. Most of the major streets are tree-lined. Economically it is the center of an important cattle and sheep ranching area. The main commercial streets of the town are Calle San Antonio, Belgrano, and 25 de Mayo. Although no longer in operation, Argentina’s second oldest railroad was established in 1866

between Gualeguay and Puerto Ruiz, 8 km south. Gualeguay was so important economically last century that the main altar in the Templo de San Antonio was made from imported Carrara marble.

955

Gualeguay

MESOPOTAMIA A Festivals

Accommodation on RN 12 • Hotel Prado, @ 424247

•

•

•

Fiesta Provincial Cantando del Río (Provincial River Song Festival): in January Fiesta Provincial de las Comparsas: Carnival in February

D Camping

B Tourist information •

Oficina Municipal de Turismo, Batalla de Cepeda @ 424110 fax 424595

Complejo Turístico El Minuan, Parque Intendente Pazzuti 2 km from town @ 424520. Capacity 200 tents and cabins for hire. $J per tent, cabins $G for 4. Restaurant, hot water, toilets

E Eating out

• •

C Accommodation

Hotel Gran Hotel Gualeguay, Monte Caseros 217 @ 423085 • Hotel Jardín, B. Mitre 152 @ 423306 A Residencial Italia, Alfredo Palacios 19 F @ 424575 $G 2 B Residencial Banderín Centro, Islas Malvinas 11 @ 427489 B Residencial Ferrecio, B. Mitre 168 @ 424506 $G 2 • Residencial Retiro, Maipú 361 @ 422507 **

• •

Restaurant Club Social, 1 de Mayo 83 Restaurant Jockey Club, San Antonio 198 near 1 de Mayo Restaurant Los Amigos, Presidente Perón near Avenida Soberanía. Parrilla Pizzería Mayo, San Antonio 50 near Pellegrini

n Entertainment

• •

Teatro Italia, Islas Malvinas 121 La Metro Bailable, Rivadavia near Urquiza. Dancing

S Buses from Gualeguay

The bus terminal is on the corner of 25 de Mayo and Alberdi. See also Buses from Paraná on page 971, from Gualeguaychú on page 961, and from La Paz on page 964. Bus companies • Bettarel Hnos ° Villaguay (51 4 hrs) via Rosario del Tala (21 2 hrs); 1 daily ° Rosario del Tala; 3 daily • Empresa Tres Bocas ° Nogoyá (21 2 hrs); 1 daily ° Victoria via Tres Bocas; 1 daily • TATA/Central El Rápido ° Federal (5 hrs) via General Galarza, General Mansilla and Bovril (33 4 hrs), and Sauce de Luna; 1 daily ° Paraná via Victoria, Diamante, Villa Libertador General San Martín; 2 daily ° Paz (33 4 hrs); 1 daily Long-distance services • • • • • • •

Destination Buenos Aires

Fares $25.00

Córdoba $38.00 Corrientes Fray Bentos (Uruguay) $4.00 Mercedes (Uruguay) $5.00 Posadas Santa Fe

Gualeguay

Services 5 daily 3 weekly

Duration Company 31 2 hrs TATA/Central El Rápido, Empresa San José, Flecha Bus 11 hrs El Serrano Ciudad de Gualeguaychú

3 daily

Eta

2 daily 5 daily 3 weekly

Eta Expreso Singer El Serrano

956

ENTRE RÍOS I Post and telegraph • •

p Sightseeing

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Urquiza near Mitre Telephone: Central Telefónica, 25 de Mayo 451

•

L Financial •

BERSA, Islas Malvinas 33 @ 423004

U Motoring

•

All the roads from Gualeguay to Paraná are sealed. • A.C.A. service station, Monte Caseros 295

Museo Regional “Juan B Ambrosetti”, San Antonio Norte 230. Open Mon–Sat 13:00–19:00 Museo de Ciencias Naturales “Doctor Diego Echazarretta” (Dr Diego Echazarretta Natural Sciences Museum), 25 de Mayo 423. Open Mon–Fri 14:00–16:00 The house in which Garibaldi was tortured by the local police chief in 1837 in the time of the dictator Rosas still exists

GUALEGUAYCHÚ

Gualeguaychú Population: 66 000 Postal code: 2820 @ area code: (03446) Altitude: 11 m Distances From Paraná: 324 km east on RP 39 then south-east on RP 20 • From Buenos Aires: 226 km north-west RN 12 then north on RN 14 •

B

y 1750 the first settlers arrived. A chapel was in existence in 1764. La Villa de San José de Gualeguaychú was officially founded by Tomás de Rocamora in 1783. In 1810 the Cabildo joined the Junta Provisional which emerged from the May Revolution in Buenos Aires. It is situated on the Río Gualeguay, 19 km from its junction with the Río Uruguay. The intersection of Calle 25 de Mayo and Urquiza constitutes the center of the business district. Gualeguaychú’s river promenade is particularly attractive. Along the Río Gualeguaychú are many balnearios or spas. The Puente La Balsa over the Río Gualeguaychú leads to the Parque Unzué. This 110 ha (272 acres) park has picnic grounds, a racecourse, and camping grounds. It is a popular recreation area. The river here is especially pretty, with weeping willows growing profusely along its banks. Gualeguaychú has extensive bus services to Buenos Aires, Paraná, and Posadas. The roads to these places are sealed and passable

all year round. The Puente Internacional Libertador General San Martín (Liberator General Martín International Bridge) crosses the Río Uruguay at Puerto Obligado and leads into Fray Bentos in neighboring Uruguay. It is a toll bridge. Tourist facilities are good with many first class hotels. Gualeguaychú celebrates many colorful fiestas and has a renowned Carnaval season.

A Festivals

• •

957

Fiesta El Carnaval del País (Carnival): This exuberant festival takes place in February Semana Santa, March/April: Besides the religious aspect, there is much

Gualeguaychú

MESOPOTAMIA

B Tourist information

Pizzerías • Piamonte, San Lorenzo 282 • Pouler, Urquiza near Magnasco Eating out in Parque Unzué Most sports clubs in the park have restaurants attached.

•

•

dancing and many sporting events are held Fundación de la Ciudad (Town’s foundation): October

•

•

Secretaría de Turismo Municipal, 25 de Mayo 734 @ 423668/432643 fax Información Turística, Ave. Costanera near Obeliscos @ 423668 fax 427989/426221; open daily 08:00– 22:00

n Entertainment

• • •

D Camping Camping in Parque Unzué • Camping La Delfina, Avenida Soberanía in the Sector Grande 2 km from town @ 422293; hot water, restaurant, showers, toilets; hire of horses and bicycles

I Post and telegraph

•

E Eating out

•

Restaurants • Chaia, 25 de Mayo 520 • Dacal, Costanera near Andrade • Don Raúl, 1ra Junta near Rodó. Parrilla • Embajador, San Martín near 3 de Febrero • Enrique I, Monseñor Chalup 28 • Express, Rocamora 71 • La Ruleta, 3 de Febrero 126 • Munich, Bolívar 565 • París, Pellegrini 180

Key to map A C D E I $ T

Catedral San José Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Central Telecom Dirección de Turismo Municipal Banco de Entre Ríos Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 3

7 8 11 13 14 15

Camping La Delfina Motel La Posada del Charrúa Hotel Los Angeles Hotel Embajador Residencial Alemán Residencial Abadia Residencial Victoria Residencial Brutti

Gualeguaychú

20 24 27 31

Casino, Hotel Embajador, 3 de Febrero; roulette, baccarat, black jack. Open Mon–Fri 22:00–03:30, Sat 18:00–04:00 and Sun 17:00–04:00 Disco Bárbaro, Bolívar near Maipú Disco Power, 25 de Mayo 989 Teatro Gualeguaychú, Urquiza 705. The venue for theater and ballet performances since 1914 Post office: Correo Central, Urquiza 1036 near Angel Elias Telephone: Telecom, Urquiza 90

L Financial

• •

Banco Francés del Río de la Plata S.A., 25 de Mayo 851. ATM Banco de Entre Ríos, 25 de Mayo 949 @ 426107

M Services and facilities

• •

Fishing equipment: Badaraco, 25 de Mayo 1077 Photographic supplies: Foto Lux, Urquiza 1035 @ 423924

Hotel Berlin Hotel Yaro Residencial Entre Ríos Residencial Avenida

4 Eating out 2 6 10 12 17 30

Pizzería Piamonte Restaurant Chaia Restaurant La Ruleta Restaurant Enrique I Restaurant París Restaurant Express

5 Entertainment

9 Casino Hotel Embajador 18 Teatro Gualeguaychú 25 Disco Power

958

7 Tour operators 21 Control Tour 23 Local Tour

9 Sights

16 Solar de los Haedo 19 Museo Arqueológico 29 Museo Ferroviario

0 Services 4

Lancha Ciudad de Gualeguay 5 Uruguayan consulate 22 Banco Francés 26 Foto Lux 28 Fishing equipment: Badaraco

ENTRE RÍOS To Fray Bentos (Uruguay

N

GUALEGUAYCHÚ

1 AV E.

BVAR DE LEON

CO

Isla de la Libertad

ST AN

MONTIEL

ER A

Río

J. J.

E

UR

GRAN CHACO

Gu

ale

Q UI

IBICUY

25 DE MAYO

BRASIL

GENERAL URQUIZA

LUIS N. PALMA

PEDRO J.M. COLOMBO

ITUZAI NGÓ

A

B. MITRE 6 7

11

8 9

3 DE FEBRERO

10

13

12

BVA R. IRAZ UST A

PICCINI

GOLDARACENA

BUENOS AIRES

CONCORDIA

AVE. ARISTÓBU LO DEL vALLE

3 DE CABALLERÍA

LUIS DOELLO JURADO

G. MENDEZ

C. NIEVAS

SAN JOSÉ

ROSARIO

O.V. ANDRADE

LUIS N. PALMA

CANONIG O J.J. BORGUES

Plaza San Martín

16

SAN MARTÍN

CASEROS

RIVADAVIA

BELGRANO

I

SAN LOREN ZO

VICTORIA

SÁENZ PEÑA

5

Plaza Colón

3

L .N. ALEM

REPÚB LICA ORIEN TAL

ú

2

ESTADOS UNIDOS

1 DE MAYO

ych

4

BOLÍVAR

MISIONES

ZA

BOLIVIA

gua

T

14 15

MONSEÑO R CHALUP

Plaza Basavilbaso

17 C. PELLEGRI NI

9 DE JULIO

SUIPACHA 18

20 19

GRAL . J.A . ROCA

SANTIAGO DÍAZ

MONTEVID EO

ITALIA

21 JUAN F. SEGUI

J.L . CHURRUARIN

FRAY MOCHO

22 ALBERDI 23

G. MAGNASC O

To Concepción del Uruguay

Plaza L ibertad

H. YRIGO YEN

24

ESPAÑA $

25 CHACA BUCO

C

27 26

29 ANGEL F. ELÍAS

J.M. NEYRA

MAIPÚ 28 AYACUCHO

20 AVE. PRIMERA JUNTA

AVE. ROCAMORA

31 30

959

Gualeguaychú

MESOPOTAMIA C Accommodation in Gualeguaychú Apart Hotels

• Las Casuarinas, Presidente Perón

@

425876

$E

4

@ @ @ @

426051 425111 426383 fax 423850 fax

$E $F $F $F

2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @

426138 431092 427044 434018

$F

2

@ @

427675 426153

$G $G

2 2

@ @ @ @ @

423850 426245 426048 427214 426469

$G $G $H $H $G

2 2 2 2 2

La Posada del Charrúa, Avenida del Valle 250 near San Lorenzo ADGHPVY @ 426099

$F

2

Hotels Embajador, 3 de Febrero 115 near San Martín Fax 426051 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY ** Berlin, Bolívar 733 AEFGJLPUV ** Los Angeles, 3 de Febrero 73 AEFGJLPUV * Paris, Pellegrini 180 near Bolívar AELPV * Yaro, San Martín 903 ADEHLPVY Fax 424850 • Hostal del Río, L. Palma 788 • Müller, J.D. San Martín 686 • Puerto Sol, San Lorenzo 477

***

Residenciales

A Abadia, San Martín 588 LP A Residencial Alemán, Bolívar 535 HLP A Anexo H Paris, Pellegrini near Bolívar LP Fax 426260 A Avenida, Rocamora 245 ELP A Brutti, Bolívar 571 LP A Entre Ríos, Andrade 1009 LP A Victoria, Bolívar 565 ELP

Motels *

Accommodation in Parque Unzué Hosterías

• Mar de las Pampas, Camino de la Costa

@

433359

@

428082

$F $F

4 5

@

499059

$F

6

@

426175

$G

4

@

428185

$F

6

Cabañas

• El Parque, Camino de la Costa • El Paraíso, Camino de la Costa

Accommodation on road to Andubaysal • Cabañas La Casona

Accommodation on RN 14

• Cabañas El Salto, KM 254

Accommodation on RP 20

• Cabañas Le Privé, Primera Junta near Perito Moreno

P Visas, passports •

U Motoring

Uruguayan consulate, Rivadavia 510 @ 426168

The Puente Internacional Libertador General San Martín to Fray Bentos in Uruguay is a toll bridge. Service stations • A.C.A., Urquiza 1000 near H. Yrigoyen • Esso, Urquiza 2000 near Bulevar Daneri. Includes cafeteria

Q Border crossing

Border formalities at the Puente Internacional Libertador General San Martín crossing into Uruguay take only 10 minutes.

Gualeguaychú

960

ENTRE RÍOS S Buses from Gualeguaychú

The bus terminal is on Bolívar 576 near Monseñor Chalup @ 427987. It has a restaurant, a cloakroom, and a post office. Look on the notice board for tourist information. See also Buses from Paraná on page 971 and from Concordia on page 949. Provincial bus services • Empresa Ciudad de Gualeguaychú, Primera Junta 749 @ 431402 ° Chajarí (61 2 hrs) via Concepción del Uruguay (11 2 hrs), Colón (2 hrs), Concordia (33 4 hrs), and Federación (51 2 hrs); 3–5 daily ° Ibicuy; 1 daily • El Rápido @ 424349 • Empresa San José @ 428412 ° Rosario del Tala (2 hrs); 1 daily ° Paraná ($18.00; 6 hrs) via Gualeguay and Victoria; 4 daily • Empresa Ciudad de Gualeguay @ 424061 ° Rosario del Tala (2 hrs) via Urdinarrain and Basavilbaso; 2 daily ° Gualeguay; 5 daily • TATA/Central El Rápido @ 424349 ° Chajarí) via Concepción del Uruguay (11 2 hrs), Colón (2 hrs), San José, and Concordia (33 4 hrs); 2–3 daily Villaguay via Urdinarrain, Basavilbaso, Rosario del Tala (2 hrs), Las Moscas, ° and Villa Domínguez; 1 daily ° Villaguay via Colón, San José and Villa Elisa; 1 daily Inter-provincial services • Buenos Aires ($25.00; 3 hrs)

# Water transport •

Sailing boat excursion to Isla Libertad $10.00 2 hrs

•

Y Shopping • •

Artesanías Entre Ríos, L N Palma near Costanera Centro Artesanal, Puerto

•

a Sport • • • • •

Aero Club, Urquiza west already RN 14; joy flights, parachuting Golf: Gualeguaychú Country Club, Urquiza West Parada 12 @ 422103; 9 holes Club Hípico, Parque Unzué, Sector Grande; polo Club Náutico, Parque Unzué, Sector Chico; yachting, water ski, rowing, swimming; restaurant Tennis: Club Neptunia, Parque Unzué; restaurant

•

•

p Sightseeing •

Solar de los Haedo, San José 105 near Rivadavia. Built in 1783 on a piece of land originally allotted by Rocamora, this building is considered the oldest in the city. In 1845 it served as Giuseppe Garibaldi’s headquarters 961

when he invaded Entre Ríos with his Uruguayan troops Museo Ferroviario, Piccini block 1000 near Maipú. Located in the station building of the now defunct F.C. Urquiza rail line. Open-air exhibit of old locomotives and passenger carriages Museo Arqueológico Profesor Manuel Almeida (Profesor Manuel Almeida Archeological Museum), 25 de Mayo 734; part of the Casa de la Cultura. On exhibit are archeological artifacts of the former indigenous tribes who lived here before the arrival of the Europeans Azotea de Lapalma, San Luis near Jujuy. Constructed in 1830. The balcony runs along the whole of the first floor, and the iron fence bears the initials of the first owner. It consists of two storeys Casa de Andrade, Andrade near Borques. The building dates from the middle of nineteenth century. First owner was Olegario Víctor Andrade. The house served as the Municipalidad until 1961. Now cultural and artistic events are held here. The house has retained its colonial

Gualeguaychú

MESOPOTAMIA •

•

character: thick adobe walls and a straw-thatched roof Catedral San José, San José 25. Inaugurated in 1890. The organ has 2200 pipes and was constructed completely in town by Sr. Enrico Vercelli Teatro Gualeguaychú, Urquiza 705. Built in 1914. Now a cultural center

Launch excursions • Catamarán, leaves from Balneario Norte; daily in summer, Sat, Sun; in winter of public holidays only • Lancha Ciudad de Gualeguay, leaves from the port • At Puerto Unzué 35 km east of Gualeguaychú is the international bridge José de San Martín linking it to the Uruguayan city of Fray Bentos • Ibicuy: See page 963 • Villa Paranacito: See page 982

s Excursions Tour operators • Control Tour, Urquiza 814 @ 426396 • Local Tour, España 38 @ 429608 fax

HERNANDARIAS

Hernandarias Postal code: 3127 @ area code: (0343) Distance from Paraná: 117 km north on RN 12 and RP 7

T

he first turnoff from RN 12 is at Gobernador Racedo. Hernandarias was founded in 1607 by Hernando Arias de Saavedra (“Hernandarias”) in 1607 during one of his reconnoitering expeditions south from Asunción. It is probably the first Spanish settlement in what is now the province of Entre Ríos. Officially it was founded in 1872.

C Accommodation

From the time when it was a busy river port remains the floating pier, now converted into a floating restaurant. Some of the largest specimens of dorados have been caught in the waters off Hernandarias. From the bluffs there are sweeping views over the river with its islands, some of which are still in their virgin state, and to the swamps and marshes on the opposite side.

• • • •

D Camping

There is a municipal camping ground near the floating pier with 27 bungalows.

E Eating out

A Festivals

•

In May is the Foundation festival, and in August the traditional Regata-Crucero Hernandarias-Paraná, a sailing-boat race, is held.

• •

B Tourist information •

Comedor El Flotante, at municipal campsite Restaurant Los Alpes, Córdoba near Presidente Perón Restaurant La Casona, Irigoyen near San Martín

S Buses

Camping Municipal @ 4995866/ 4960066; fax 4963940/4960354

Hernandarias

Posada Turística Barrancas del Paraná @ 499039 Hospedaje Hernandarias @ 4960069 Bungalows Municipales @ (0343) 4960066 Cabañas del Paraná @ 4960394/ 4960020

El Entrerrriano runs four daily services to Paraná.

962

ENTRE RÍOS

Ibicuy Postal code: 2846 @ area code: (03446)

IBICUY

I

bicuy is located on the Río Ibicuy, which is nothing but an arm of the Río Paraná. The turnoff from RN 12 is just after the Zárate Brazo Largo complex. An extensive upgrade of this highway has just been completed. Because the village is in an area prone to annual floods, the village is a hybrid of streets and canals: some houses are built on stilts and can only be reached by boat. The turnoff is west from RN 12 directly at the northern end of the Complejo Zárate–Brazo Largo. From there it is a 38 km trip, always through marshes and swampland. English travelers may be interested that there is monument to the fallen English soldiers of the First World War.

B Tourist information •

•

Municipalidad de Ibicuy, Belgrano 146 @ 498241/498229 fax

Hospedaje Lor y Pao, Almte. Brown

E Eating out

•

C Accommodation

Accommodation is not geared towards the sophisticated traveler. • Hospedaje Negrón, Pasaje Colón • Hospedaje El Padrino, 17 de Octubre @ 498148

Complejo Polideportivo Club Fluvial, Almafuerte

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Urquiza @ 498157 Buses Ciudad de Gualeguaychú run one bus daily to this little township.

LA PAZ

La Paz Population: 18 000 Postal code: 3190 @ area code: (03437) Distances from Paraná: 168 km north-east on RN 12

F

ounded in 1835, La Paz is situated on a sandy bluff, right on the banks of the Río Paraná.

In 1842 the naval Battle of Costa Brava was fought here between Uruguay, under the command of Giuseppe Garibaldi, and Argentina, under the command of Admiral William Brown. When the battle began to fare badly for Garibaldi he burned his ships, slipped across the Río Espinillo by boat, and returned to Uruguay via Corrientes Province. The main plank of Garibaldi’s ship

has been preserved in the Museo Regional. The clean sandy beaches make this a perfect spot for swimming, and the abundant dorado in the Río Paraná lure fishermen to La Paz year after year.

A Festivals

•

963

Fiesta Nacional de la Pesca Variada del Río (National Festival of Mixed

La Paz

MESOPOTAMIA •

ná ra ío

Many restaurants serve seafood, especially dorado and surubí. Some cafés run discos at the weekend. Restaurants • Anahí, Belgrano 376; ice cream • Cando, 9 de Julio 837 • Hotel La Paz, 3 de Febrero 745 • América, Galería Santa Rosa, San Martín near Italia • La Tapera de Petete, Vieytes 1153

O R P

SAN LORENZO

3 DE FEBRERO

Parque Berón de Astrada

LARREA

BERUT TI

DOMINGO FRENCH

SAENZ PEÑA BELGRANO

ESPAÑA

SAN MARTÍN

MORENO

G.P. ECHAGÜE

ITUZAINGÓ

DORREGO

C

Centro Información Turística, Rotonda de acceso (access to town) @ 421822

E Eating out

VIEYTES

R

VI

N

P

C

R

E

O

E

Pa

N

VI

N

TR

C

E

E

R

S

A

ÍO

N

S

TA

FE

LA PAZ

n Entertainment

•

Cine Urquiza, Belgrano 770

ITALIA

I Post and telegraph

A

E

•

GENERAL URQUIZA

•

9 DE JULIO D A

IGLESIA

C

MUNICIPALIDAD

D

CORREO ARGENTINO

E

COMPAÑÍA ENTRERIANA . DE TELÉFONOS

CHACABUCO 12

M Services and facilities

BERÓN DE ASTRADA

To Paraná

•

Fishing gear • La Boutique del Pescador, Belgrano near Viyetes • Martín Pescador, San Martín 1372

River Fishing): This fishing competition is held in February Fiesta Canto Popular: July

B Tourist information •

Post Office: Correo Argentino, 9 de Julio near España Telephone: Compañía Entrerriana de Teléfonos, San Martín near General Urquiza

S Buses

Secretaría de Turismo Municipal, Italia 1043 @ 422389 fax 421571; Centro de Información, Echagüe 787

The bus terminal is on 3 de Febrero 1064. • Ciudad de Santa Elena ° Santa Elena (11 4hrs); 2 daily

C Accommodation in La Paz Hotels Milton, Italia 1029 near San Martín La Paz, 3 de Febrero 745 • El Eucaliptal, T. de Rocamora • Rivera, San Martín 367

**

*

Residenciales A B • •

Plaza, San Martín 862 Las Dos M, Urquiza 825 Casal, Urquiza 825 Cabañas Posta Surubí, España 461

F E F LP

@ @ @ @

422232 421590 421108 421032

$G $H

2 2

@ @ @ @

422208 421303 421303 421128

$G $H

2 2

$F

4

(0370) 442961 $F

4

Accommodation on RP 1 **

@

Hostería El Dorado RP 1 KM 2.5

Accommodation in Paraje La Curtiembre • Cabañas Le Chéval Blanc,

La Paz

964

@

422090

ENTRE RÍOS • •

•

•

•

U Motoring

San Ceferino (E.R.) ° La Paz via Bovril; 1 daily 12:15; return 06:00 TATA/Central El Rápido ° Gualeguay via La Paz, General Mansilla, and General Galarza: 1 daily 15:17 S.O.T.A. ° Chajarí (41 2hrs) via La Paz and Federal (21 4hrs); 1 daily 05:40; return 06:00 Empresa Martín del Pedro ° Paraná (21 2 hrs); 2 daily 10:30, 21:00; return 13:00, 19:45 ° Guayquiró via San José de Feliciano (13 4 hrs); 1 daily 16:00; return 06:00 T.A. Chevallier ° Paraná (13 4 hrs); 1 daily 02:40; return 21:55

•

A.C.A., Moreno 940 near Echagüe

Y Shopping

•

Diógenes en Cuero, Brown near Chacabuco. Leather goods

a Sport

• •

Golf: Jockey Club La Paz (E.R.) RP 1 KM 5 @ (03437) 421270; nine holes A list of fishing guides is available from the Información Turística

p Sightseeing

•

Museo Histórico Regional La Paz (Regional Historic Museum of La Paz), Parque Berón de Astrada, Berutti and 3 de Febrero. Open Tues–Sun 09:00–12:00 and 17:00–20:00

s Excursions

•

Isla Curuzú Chali is a fishing reserve

NOGOYÁ

Nogoya Population: 20 000 Postal code: 3150 @ area code: (03435) Distance from Paraná: 110 km north-west on RN 12

N

ogoyá is the center of dairy farming in the province. The town is located in the center of the south-western part of the province. The Basilica Nuestra Señora del Carmen has a statue of the Virgin which was carved in 1782 by the town’s founder, Don Andrés de Quiroga y Taboada.

B Tourist information •

N Entertainment

•

Caseros 956 @ 421012

C Accommodation

•

Hotel Luz de Nogoyá, San Martín 640 @ 421232 • Hospedaje La Antártida, 9 de Julio 499 @ 422232. Basic A Residencial Gran Hotel, 25 de Mayo 889 @ 421221 *

I Post and telegraph

•

•

Post office: Encotesa, 9 de Julio near Urquiza

S Buses Bus companies • Empresa San José 27 de Febrero @ 423421 • Empresa Tres Bocas • TATA/Central El Rápido

E Eating out •

Gerónimo Discoteque, Belgrano 810. Dancing Sociedad Italiana, Caseros

Restaurant La Gruta, Belgrano near RN 12 Restaurant Cappa Hnos, 9 de Julio 1. Parrilla

965

Nogoya

MESOPOTAMIA • •

For detailed services see Buses from Paraná on page 971, from Concepción del Uruguay on page 944, and from Gualeguay on page 956. Services • Concepción del Uruguay (3 hrs); 3 daily

Gualeguay; 2 daily Paraná; 4 daily

U Motoring

•

Esso service station, 9 de Julio near Caseros

PARANÁ

Paraná Population: 212 000 Postal code: 3100 @ area code: (0343) Altitude: 64 m Distance from Buenos Aires: 580 km north-west on RN 12

P

araná is the capital of Entre Ríos Province, and is located on a hill which overlooks a stretch of the Río Paraná dotted with small islands. A provincial church was established here in 1730, although settlers had come here from Santa Fe as early as 1588. During General Urquiza’s presidency from 1853 to 1862 Paraná was the capital of the Argentine confederation. Many older buildings now preserved as national monuments date from this time.

D Camping

The center of town is Plaza 1 de Mayo; most of the city’s administrative offices are located near here. The best views are obtained from the Parque Urquiza overlooking the river. Temperatures average 24°C (74°F) in summer and 18°C (64°F) in winter.

Camping near Túnel Subfluvial • Thompson, Avenida Bravard near 3 de Febrero, 3 km from town center @ 4221998. These grounds are right on the river • Toma Vieja, Blas Parera Norte, 8 km from town center @ 4242622. Views over the river and town

E Eating out

B Tourist information •

•

• •

Restaurants • Aquí Es, Blas Parera 1233 with show. Parrilla • Club Atlético Echagüe, 25 de Mayo 555 • Club Atlético Estudiantes, Los Vascos 79. Parrilla • Club Español, Gral. Urquiza 722. Spanish cuisine • Coscoino, Corrientes 377 • Don Carlos, 25 de Mayo 223. International cuisine • Don Charras, Avenida Uranga 1127. Parrilla • El Moncholo, Scalabrini 71. Seafood • Escargot, Urquiza 1251

Secretaría de Turismo de la Provincia de Entre Ríos, Peatonal San Martín 670 near Laprida 5 @ 4223384, fax 4233651 Secretaría de Turismo Municipal, Avenida Laurencena near Bajada San Martín @ 4233677 fax. This office is down by the river; it is a good place to pick up programs of cultural events taking place in Paraná Secretaría de Turismo Municipal, Oficina Centro, 25 de Mayo 116 @ 4233184 fax Dirección de Flora y Fauna de la Provincia de Entre Ríos, 25 de Mayo 565 @ 4316773

Paraná

966

ENTRE RÍOS C Accommodation in Paraná

Most cheap accommodation is near the railroad station. Apart hotels • De Urquiza, Gral Urquiza 356 fax 4233695 • Marán Suites, Malvinas near Buenos Aires

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Hotels Mayorazgo, Etchevehere near MirandaACDEFGHJKLMNPRS$TUVXYZ Fax 4230420 @ 4230333 Overlooks Parque Urquiza and the river Paraná *** Gran Hotel Alvear, San Martín 637 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 4220000/4223979 @ 4230036 *** Gran Hotel Paraná, Urquiza 976 ACDEFGHJKLPSTUVYZ Fax 4223979, e-mail: [email protected] @ 4223900 *** Paraná Hotel Plaza Jardín, 9 de Julio 60 ACDEFGHJKLPSTUVYZ Fax 4223205, eE-mail: [email protected] @ 4231700 * Coe Vera, Avenida Almafuerte 890 AELPV Fax 4243258 @ 4240365 * Superluxe, Villaguay 162 AELPSV @ 4232835 @ 4220900 • Chamarrita, Tibiletti near Mihuva @ 4222244 • Romero, Santiago de Liniers 354

*****

Residenciales

A Bristol, Alsina 221 Near the bus terminal A Latino, San Juan 158 A San Jorge, Belgrano 386 B City Hotel, Racedo 231 Opposite the railroad terminal B Don Marcos, Ramírez 2681 Fax 4316909 B El Jardín, Belgrano 386 B Las Brisas, Bavio 125 B Las Vegas, Avenida Zanni 1040 B Le Mans, Avenida Almafuerte 1295 B Liniers, Santiago del Liniers 384 B 9 de Julio, 9 de Julio 674 Near the railroad terminal B Roma, General Urquiza 1061

Hosterías *

Aguas Doradas, A. Carbó 850

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Posta del Sol, Avenida Uranga 3048 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 4390303

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Accommodation RN 11 Hotels **

Oro Verde, KM 9.5 Avenida Los Horneros 153 AEFGJLPUV

967

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ENTRE RÍOS Key to map A C D E G P $

Cathedral Palacio Municipal Correo Argentino Telecom Mercado Municipal A.C.A. Banco de Galicia y Buenos Aires

3 Accommodation 12 18 20 22 25 29

Hotel Gran Hotel Alvear Residencial Latino Hotel Gran Hotel Paraná Apart Hotel De Urquiza Residencial Roma Hotel Paraná Hotel Plaza Jardín 35 Residencial Las Brisas

4 Eating out 9

16 19 21 23 30 32 33 36

Sociedad Española Cafetería Café del Paseo Restaurant Club Español Restaurant Escargot Restaurant Don Carlos Restaurant La Casona Restaurant El Luisito Cafetería Café Mi Lugar

5 Entertainment

15 Teatro Tres de Febrero 26 La Baxada Dancing

6 Airline offices

8 Aerolíneas Argentinas 28 LAER

Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes Dr. Pedro E. Martínez 10 Museo Histórico de Entre Ríos “Martiniano Leguizamón” 24 Mercado y Museo Provincial de Artesanías 27 Colegio Nuestra Señora del Huerto

0 Services

11 Secretaría de Turismo de la Provincia de Entre Ríos 17 Casa de Cambio Tourfe

14 Localiza

Restaurant Coscoino

• •

La Baxada, Urquiza 1025. Dancing Teatro Tres de Febrero, 25 de Junio block 0 near San Martín. This theater was built in 1852 Entertainment in San Benito • Disco Detroit, Avenida Friuli • Disco Paradise, Avenida Friuli

Giovanni, Avenida Ramírez 2240. Italian cuisine • La Casona, Pellegrini 175. Parrilla • La Rueda, Gualeguaychú 679 • Los Monjes (Hotel Mayorazgo), Etchevehere near Córdoba, shows. International cuisine & • El Luisito, 9 de Julio 140 K. International cuisine • Pekín, 9 de Julio 317. Chinese cuisine Pizzerías • Bahía, General Ramírez 1631 near La Paz • Piccolino, Corrientes near Nogoyá • Vera Cruz, Avenida Ramírez 2539; opposite bus terminal Cafeterías • Café del Paseo, 25 de Junio 51 • Café Mi Lugar, San Martín 1140 Bars • Barajas, Urquiza near Belgrano • Las Piedras, Avenida Rivadavia near Córdoba • Le Coin, Avenida Rivadavia near Catamarca

I Post and telegraph

• •

Post Office: Correo Argentino, 25 de Mayo 110 near Monte Caseros Telephone: Telecom, San Martín 735. Open 24 hours

L Financial

• •

Banco de Galicia y Buenos Aires, San Martín 763 @ 4230139. ATM Casa de Cambio Tourfe, San Martín 777 @ 4316429

N Clubs

•

Spanish: Sociedad Española, San Martín 760

R Air services

Aeropuerto General Urquiza is 10 km from the city center. For services see Air services to and from Entre Ríos on page 935. Airlines • LAER, Línea Aérea de Entre Ríos, 25 de Mayo 77 @ 4316375/4230347/ 4260934 • Aerolíneas Argentinas, San Martín 563 @ 4310728

Eating out RN 11 • Los Pipos, Avenida de las Américas 3611. Parrilla

n Entertainment •

7

7 Tour operators and car rental

•

•

9 Sights

Casino, Hotel Mayorazgo, Etchevehere near Córdoba Disco El Alcázar, Hotel Mayorazgo, Etchevehere near Córdoba

969

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Service stations • A.C.A., Buenos Aires near Laprida • Shell, Almafuerte 888 Car rental • A1 Rent A Car: refer Santa Fe • Localiza, Cervantes 177 @ 4233885

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The 483 km to Paso de los Libres on RN 18 and RN 14 is sealed throughout. The road to Santa Fe via the Túnel Subfluvial Uranga Silvestre Begnis under the Río Paraná is a toll way; toll $2.00.

LÓN

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U Motoring

7

Atracadero de Balsas, Ave. Estrada @ 4316955. Small ferries depart from here to Santa Fe Montonave Realidad II, river cruises from Vélez Sarsfield near Avenida Laurencena @ 4312048 Lancha Realidad I, Costanera Baja @ 4225104. Guided river cruises and to Isla Puente. Paraná Rowing Club, M.T. de Alvear near Laurencena @ 4225104. River cruises, restaurant

Key to map

•

3 Accommodation

Y Shopping

4 Eating out

a Sport

B I T

3 34 38 39 40 41

Casa de Gobierno Secretaría de Turismo Municipal Bus terminal

San Martín is a pedestrian mall between Laprida/La Paz and Perú/L.N. Alem. • Mercado y Museo Provincial de 9, Urquiza 1239. A handicraft market-cum-museum

Hotel Mayorazgo Residencial Bristol Residencial El Jardín Hotel Superluxe Residencial 9 de Julio Residencial City Hotel

31 Restaurant Club Atlético Echagüe 37 Restaurant Pekín

Golf Clubs • Campo de Golf Club Estudiantes, Ayacucho @ 4311155; eighteen holes • Campo de Golf La Colina, Montiel @ 4316913 • Rowing: Paraná Rowing Club, Avenida Dr Laurencena near M.T. de Alvear. Facilities include an indoor swimming pool and restaurant • Sailing: Yacht Club, Avenida Dr. Laurencena

5 Entertainment 2 4

Restaurant Los Monjes Casino

9 Sights 5 6

Museo de la Ciudad Museo de Entre Ríos de Ciencias Naturales y Antropologicas “Profesor Antonio Serrano”

0 Services

1 Puerto Nuevo 13 Dirección de Flora y Fauna de la Provincia de Entre Ríos 42 Railroad station (disused)

Paraná

p Sightseeing Museums • Museo Histórico de Entre Ríos “Martiniano Leguizamón” (Martiniano Leguizamón Historical Museum of Entre Ríos). Located at the corner of Laprida and Buenos

970

ENTRE RÍOS S Buses from Paraná

The bus terminal is on Avenida General Ramírez 2400 between Avenida Echagüe and Avenida Almafuerte @ 4315053. Bus 10 will take you to the railroad terminal and the budget hotels nearby. Bus companies with local services only • El Tigre Bis/La Victoria, Ave. Churruarín 718 @ 4242785 ° Bovril (21 2 hrs); 1 daily ° María Grande; 3 daily ° Viale; 3 daily • Empresa Ciudad de Crespo ° Crespo (1 hour); 3 daily ° Federación (7 hrs) via Viale, Villaguay, and Concordia (53 4 hrs); 3 daily • Empresa Ciudad de Paraná ° Chajarí (51 2 hrs) via Concordia (53 4 hrs); 1 daily • Empresa Ciudad de Santa Elena ° Santa Elena; 2 daily • Empresa C.O.D.T.A. ° Diamante (1 hour); 7 daily • Empresa El Entrerriano ° Cerrito via Villa Urquiza; 2-4 daily ° Hernandarias (21 2 hrs) via Cerrito; 4 daily • Empresa Fioravanti ° Basavilbaso (43 4 hrs) via Viale and Maciá; 1 daily • Empresa Libertador San Martín ° Villa Libertador General San Martín; 6 daily • Empresa Martín del Pedro ° Guayquiró via La Paz (21 2 hrs) and San José de Feliciano (41 2 hrs); 1–2 daily • Empresa San Vicente ° Federal (41 4 hrs) via María Grande and Bovril (21 2 hrs); 1 daily ° María Grande via Crespo; 5 daily Long-distance bus companies • A28 Central Argentino @ 4312218 • A33 T.A. Chevallier ° Gualeguay (33 4 hrs) via Crespo (1 hour), andVictoria (13 4hrs); 1 daily ° La Paz (21 2 hrs); 1 daily ° Victoria (13 4 hrs) via Villa Libertador General San Martín, and Diamante (1 hr); 1 daily • A35 Empresa Ciudad de Gualeguay ° Victoria; 5 daily • A61 El Norte Bis • A75 Empresa El Serrano, @ 4315439 • A118 ETACER S.R.L. @ 4316809 • A132 Expreso Singer @ 4312400 • A137 Flecha Bus, Ave. Churruarín 758 @ 4243987 ° Concepción del Uruguay • A155 La Estrella • A203 Empresa San José ° Concepción del Uruguay (5 hrs) via Crespo, Nogoyá (2 hrs), and Rosario del Tala; 3 daily ° Concepción del Uruguay (5 hrs) via Villaguay, Colón (41 4 hrs; $11.00); 1 daily ° Gualeguaychú (51 2 hrs) via Victoria and Gualeguay (33 4 hrs); 4 daily • A258 Zenit Turismo S.R.L., Ave. Churruarín 758 @ 4241252

971

Paraná

MESOPOTAMIA Buses from Paraná — continued • • •

A273 El Crucero del Norte A305 La Costera Criolla @ 4310487 A322 Empresa Central El Rápido/TATA @ 4230280 ° Gualeguay (33 4 hrs) via General Ramírez, Crespo, Nogoyá, and Victoria; 1 daily Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

•

•

Destination Bahía Blanca Bariloche Buenos Aires Córdoba

Fares $26.00

Corrientes $23.10 Esquina Goya Mar del Plata Mendoza Montevideo (Uruguay) Paso de los Libres Posadas Puerto Iguazú Rosario $11.00 San Luis Santa Fe $2.00 Santiago del Estero $32.00 Termas de Río Hondo Tucumán $38.80

Services 2 daily 10 daily 4–5 daily 6 daily 2 weekly 1 daily 1 daily 2 daily 4 daily 3 daily 8 daily 2 daily 24 daily 2 daily 1 daily 1 daily

Duration Companies A28 A305 8 hrs A137, A305, A322 53 4 hrs A75, A132, A273, A305, Ciudad de Paraná A322, A33 A322 A322 A258 , A305 T.A.C. Cora A61 A132, A273 A132 3 hrs A61, A137, A203, A322 T.A.C. 1 hr E.T.A.C.E.R 101 2 hrs A155 111 2 hrs A155 13 hrs A155

Plaza Alvear houses the Museo de Bellas Artes “Bazán” and the local history museum. It is open every day 09:00–12:00 and 15:00–18:00 except Monday • Museo de la Ciudad, Avenida Vélez Sarsfield in Parque Urquiza. Overview of Paraná’s past and present. Covers also the immediate vicinity of the city. Open Tues–Sat 08:00–12:00 and 16:00–20:00, Sun 16:00–20:00 Churches • The cathedral is located on the eastern side of Plaza 1 de Mayo. The façade is built in renaissance style, and on the main altar is a notable image of the Virgen del Rosario (Virgin of the Rosary), which was brought here in 1731. The organ was built in and imported from Germany Public buildings and parks • The Casa de Gobierno (Governor’s Residence), which is situated on Plaza Carbo, also has a remarkable

Aires. The main part of this museum’s collection consists of documents and newspapers from the nineteenth century. There is also a coin collection and other historic memorabilia. Open Tues–Fri 08:00–13:00 and 15:00–20:00, Sat and Sun 09:00–12:00 and 17:00–20:00 Museo de Entre Ríos de Ciencias Naturales y Antropologicas “Profesor Antonio Serrano” (Professor Antonio Serrano Natural Science and Anthropology Museum of Entre Ríos), Avenida Rivadavia 462. The varied collection here includes exhibits on archeology, mineralogy, botany, zoology, geology, and paleontology. Open Tues–Fri 08:00–12:00 and 14:00–18:30; Sat, Sun 09:00–12:00 Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes Dr. Pedro E. Martínez (Dr. Pedro E. Martínez Provincial Fine Arts Museum), Buenos Aires 355 near Laprida. This modern building on the

Paraná

972

ENTRE RÍOS •

•

•

s Excursions

façade. The clock in the tower came from Germany in 1886 and the chime can be heard from afar Colegio Nuestra Señora del Huerto (School of Our Lady of the Orchard), Monte Caseros 51 near Urquiza. In the nineteenth century this building was the seat of the Senate of the Argentine confederation; it is now a national monument Parque Urquiza begins on the bank of the river and rises up a gentle slope to Bulevar Mitre. It is one of the city’s showpieces, and the 25 ha (62 acres) of gardens feature trees native to the region. There is a huge statue of General Urquiza here, and a bas relief of the Battle of Caseros, in which Urquiza defeated President Rosas. Other statues in the park worth seeing are La Danza de Flecha and Mastil a la Bandera by Perlotti. The Hotel Mayorazgo with its casino and nightclub is also in the park Túnel Subfluvial Uranga Silvestre Begnis (formerly Hernandarias Under-river Tunnel) passes under the Río Paraná and links Entre Ríos with Santa Fe. This remarkable feat of engineering is 2400 m long and 10 m in diameter. Tours are conducted

Tour operators • Turismo Fluvial, Avenida Costanera. This company runs one-hour cruises on the Río Paraná each day at 11:30, 14:30, and 16:00 • Agencia de Viajes La Delfina, 25 de Junio 30 @ 4230331 fax Excursions • Santa Fe: A half-hour trip by local bus from the terminal. The route passes through the 21 2 km Túnel Subfluvial Uranga Silvestre Begnis and emerges on the Isla El Timbo. The country here is mainly marshy. Santa Fe and Paraná are separated by several lowlying islands which move every time the river floods. See also Santa Fe on page 376 • Parque Provincial General San Martín: This wildlife reserve is located 23 km south of town on RN 12 to La Paz. It has 600 ha (1483 acres) and protects the flora and fauna encountered in the hills and sandy river flats of the Río Paraná. The small rivers and canals have gallery forests. When the river rises many areas are inundated • Hernandarias: See page 962 • Villa Urquiza: See page 983

PARQUE NACIONAL EL PALMAR

Parque Nacional El Palmar Distances • From Concordia: 48 km south on RN 14 • From Colón: 52 km north on RN 14

T

his national park is situated halfway between Colón and Concordia. The entrance is 100 m east from the main highway, RN 14. The park extends from the highway right down to the Río Uruguay, a distance of about 14 km, and covers an area of 8500 ha (21 000 acres). The park was created to preserve the almost extinct yatay palms (Syragus yatay), and the unique wildlife. The ticket office is about 200 m from the main road. A well-maintained dirt road crosses

the park, and several minor tracks lead off it to the north and south. On the banks of the Río Uruguay some 10 km east, is the rangers’ office where you can get leaflets and

973

Parque Nacional El Palmar

MESOPOTAMIA information on flora and fauna in the park. The solitary yatay palms near the entrance gradually become denser until they eventually form groves, particularly near the streams. This particular species was threatened with extinction when cattle were introduced because the cattle ate all the seeds, thereby preventing the trees from reproducing. Most of the palms are now over a hundred years old, and some of them are estimated to be over 500 years old, giving the landscape an African appearance. New protected plantations of young palms have also been established; they are now no longer an endangered species, and grow up to 12 m high, with leaves reaching a span of two meters. These palms are the southernmost palm species in the world. Twelve km east of the entrance there is a large camping ground on the banks of the Río Uruguay, where you can hire tents. There is also a parrilla, or barbecue, here. The park rangers’ headquarters are nearby and has information on local flora and fauna. Several streams flow through the park largest one being Arroyo El Palmar. The banks of the rivers have dense vegetation.

Playful carpinchos (Hydrochaeris hydrochaeris) romp in the lagunas and rivulets. Two popular walks within the park are north to Arroyo Loro, and to Arroyo Palmar. Tour operators in both Colón and Concordia organize half-day trips to the park.

B Tourist information

There is an information kiosk near the park administration building on the banks of the Río Uruguay @ (0345) 4905086 or (03447)493031. Pamphlets are available, and one room of the kiosk features a display of the wildlife and plants in the park. Admission: $8.00

D Camping

•

Camping El Palmar, open all year. It costs $J per tent and $J per person per day to camp within the camping grounds, but there is no charge for camping in other areas within the park

E Eating out

There is a cafeteria at the camping ground overlooking the Río Uruguay.

S Buses

It is not an official stop and you have to flag buses down. Express buses and long-distance buses do not stop. Hitch-hiking to either Colón or Concordia is easy on the weekends. Bus Itapé runs two services daily to Colón and Concordia. See Buses from Colón on page 940.

ROSARIO DEL TALA

Rosario del Tala Postal code: 3174 @ area code: (03445) Distance from Paraná: 183 km east on RN 12 then RN 39

R

osario del Tala, founded in 1822, is almost at the geographical center of Entre Ríos. The upper reaches of the Río Gualeguay are very popular with campers and hikers.

Rosario del Tala

974

ENTRE RÍOS B Tourist information •

Bus companies • Bettarel Hnos • Ciudad de Gualeguay • Expreso Itapé • Flechabus @ 422187 • San José • TATA/Central El Rápido For services see Buses from Paraná on page 971 and from Concepción del Uruguay on page 944.

Centro de Información Turística, Urquiza 257 @ 421568

C Accommodation

A Residencial Olijnick, Centenario 97 near Tres de Febrero AFLP @ 421691 $H 1 A Residencial El Cóndor, Caseros 142 @ 421548 $I 1 B Residencial Kachisky, 3 de Febrero 361 @ 421178 • Residencial El Viajero, J.D. San Martín @ 422007

Services • Concepción del Uruguay (3 daily, 11 2hrs) • Gualeguaychú (3 daily) • Gualeguay (4 daily) • Paraná (3 daily, 31 2hrs)

D Camping •

Camping Balneario Dr. Delio Panizza, 1 km from the town center, is a 50 ha (124 acres) recreational area with a fine sandy beach front along the river; hot water, showers, toilets; restaurant. There is fresh water, and, in summer, a disco

U Motoring

•

p Sight seeing

•

E Eating out • • •

Restaurant Don Poroto, 1 de Mayo 24 Restaurant La Plaza, Almirante Brown near R.S. Peña Restaurant Tía Mary, 9 de Julio 488

I Post and telegraph •

Service station: Shell, Centenario near 3 de Febrero

•

Post: Correo Argentino, Urquiza near Centenario

S Buses

Monumento Plaza Libertad consists of three themes: Tribute to the Latin American Hero General José de San Martín opposite the town hall; tribute to the Heroé Entrerriano General Don Justo José de Urquiza on the west side; and monument to the first inhabitants of Rosario del Tala on the east side Museo Histórico Municipal (Municipal Historical Museum), Urquiza 259

s Excursions

•

The bus terminal is on Bizzotto near Urquiza.

Sr. Marcelo Ormaechea @ 421347 organizes trekking and fishing safaris

SAN JOSÉ

San José Postal code: 3127 @ area code: (3447) Distance from Colón: 10 km west on RN 14

T

his was an early European immigration settlement. The inhabitants trace their ancestry back to Swiss, Italian, Spanish, and German immigrants.

Of interest is the Museo Histórico Regional de la Colonia, Urquiza 1127, which gives an insight of the hard life of the early settlers and

their customs. Exhibited are old arms, farm implements, and musical instruments which they brought over from their countries of origin. 975

San José

MESOPOTAMIA A Festivals

n Entertainment

In July the villagers organize the colorful Fiesta Provincial de la Colonización.

•

B Tourist information

•

•

I Post and telegraph

Edificio Consejo Deliberante, San José @ 470076/470015 fax 470017

•

C Accommodation •

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Lavalle 1622 Telephone: La Central, Sarmiento 1618

S Buses

El Hotelito, Dr Cettour 2006 near Brouchard @ 470574 Residencial Las Colonias, Centenario 1591 @ 470141

The bus terminal is on Centenario near Ituzaingó @ 470042. TATA/Central El Rápido runs several bus services daily to Colón.

E Eating out • •

Status, Mitre 1980. Dancing

Comedor La Palmera, Cettour 2470 Pizzería La Plaza, San Martín near Lavalle

SAN JOSÉ DE FELICIANO Postal code: 3187 @ area code: (03458) Distance from Paraná: 268 km north on RN 12; at the intersection with La Paz turn east into RP 1

S

an José de Feliciano is located in the central northern part of Entre Ríos near the border with Corrientes Province. Its earliest records go back to 1818 when it was founded by Don Jacinto Pañomero who was at the time the head of the border control — Entre Ríos was then an independent state. Before the arrival of the Spanish the area was thinly populated by the Caletones tribe. Cotton, linseed, sorghum are the major crops in the district.

C Accommodation

San José is a bit off the beaten track but it is included for those who like to venture into unknown tourist territory. Tourist facilities include accommodation for the unspoilt traveler, restaurants, gas station, and tourist information. It is a very traditional town.

• • •

D Camping

•

A Festivals •

Fiesta Provincial del Terreno Entrerriano: March

B Tourist information •

Camping Municipal Paso Bravo, 5 km outside town on the banks of the Río Feliciano. A tranquil, tree-studded place, possibility of fishing; has water, toilets, and electricity; boat hire

E Eating out

Información Turística Municipal, Sarmiento 1 @ 420225

San José

Residencial Itatí, Buenos Aires 50 @ 420282/4 Residencial Central, H. Yrigoyen 131 @ 420797/99 Residencial Galaxi, Sarmiento 79 @ 420572

•

976

Confitería Mármol, H. Yrigoyen near Sarmiento

ENTRE RÍOS • •

For details of services see Buses from Paraná on page 971 and from Concordia on page 949. Services • Concordia; 1 service daily • Paraná; 1 service daily

Pizzería La Paulina, Gualeguay near Belgrano Parrilla La Curva, Avenida Circunvalación

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office: Moreno 169 Telephone: Telecom: San Martín

U Motoring

•

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Paraguay near Sarmiento @ 420571; includes a cafeteria. Bus companies • ETA S.R.L. @ 420515 • Martín del Pedro • Feliciano

Y.P.F. gas station, Belgrano near Eva Perón

a Sport

The Río Guayquiraró, forming the border with Corrientes Province is big enough to support dorados, surubíes, and patíes.

SANTA ELENA

Santa Elena Population: 20 000 Postal code: 3192 @ area code: (03437) Distance from Paraná: 150 km north on RN 12; 15 km off the main road

S

anta Elena is located on the Río Paraná in the north-eastern part of the province. The climate is moderate subtropical. Because of the climatic conditions with ample rain spread throughout the year there is dense forest covering the hills and descending to the banks of the river. Cattle is the economic mainstay of the region. The town is still off the beaten track for the average tourist, but over the last few years it has developed facilities to attract fishing enthusiasts and others to enjoy the quiet beauty of the majestic river. For golfers there is a small golf course on the outskirts of town. Regular daily bus services run to Paraná and nearby towns.

• •

A Festivals

•

•

fees for launches. Availability of boats with outboard motors can also be ascertained at the Subprefectura Naval Argentina, Puerto Santa Elena @ 481247

C Accommodation

•

Fiesta Provincial de la Chamarrita in January. This is a song festival with particular emphasis on the local Entrerriano chamarrita songs

D Camping

•

B Tourist information •

Hotel Libertad, Avenida Presidente Perón 566 @ 481787 Hotel Sur, Primero Maestro 275 Residencial del Sol, Avenida Presidente Perón 1127 @ 481253 Bungalow Parador Rosalina, Avenida Costanera 1 481456

Información turística, Avenida Costanera near Presidente Perón @ 481897/481223 fax 481225. The office has a list of official fishing guides and

Camping Municipal on Ave. Costanera

E Eating out

•

977

Parrilla Santa Elena, Presidente Perón in Barrio Sur

Santa Elena

MESOPOTAMIA •

S Buses

Restaurant La Cabaña, Avenida Presidente Perón 629 Restaurant Don Juan, Avenida Presidente Perón

n Entertainment

The bus terminal is on Presidente Perón, and has a small restaurant. • Ciudad de Santa Elena For services see Buses from Paraná on page 971.

•

•

•

•

El Viejo Almacén, Supremo Entrerriano. Dancing La Rocka, 25 de Mayo near 3 de Febrero

U Motoring

I Post and telegraph • •

Esso Servicentro, Avenida Presidente Perón near 1 de Mayo

a Sport

•

Post: Correo Argentino, Supremo Entrerriano Telephone: Telecentro, Presidente Perón 565

Golf: Club Safra 9 de Junio near Supremo Entrerriano, Barrio Sur Santa Elena 3192 @ (0437) 481208/481526; nine holes

VICTORIA

Victoria Population: 25 000 Postal code: 3153 @ area code: (03436) Distance from Paraná: 120 km south-east on RP 11

V

ictoria is located in a flood-prone area on the Río Victoria, about 40 km north of its junction with the Río Paraná.

Until 1829 Victoria was known as Matanza, which means “killing” or “slaughter”. It was an apt description of the cruel campaigns the Spanish waged against the local Indians during the colonial era. A huge cross has been erected on this site to commemorate a bloody battle which took place between the Indians and the victorious Spaniards. The town was founded during the eighteenth century, but the exact date is obscure. The town center is around Plaza San Martín with the usual hallmarks of a Spanish foundations: town hall, main church, and public buildings around it. The oldest buildings from the “Matanza era” are located in the Quinto Cuartel section of town. The town is located on the edge of the Río Paraná delta and thus is Victoria

the gateway to the thousands of little islands and myriads of canals formed by the breaking up of the Río Paraná. Although distant from Rosario in Santa Fe Province by more than 60 km as the crow flies you can kayak all the way there. This has become an annual sporting event in February when a flotilla of small boats and kayaks crisscrosses the swamp land to reach Rosario. In 1899 the Benedictine order established a monastery here; it still exists and cells are available for those who want to pray or meditate. The Benedictines are renowned apiarists and produce a liqueur from their honey, made according to old recipes.

978

ENTRE RÍOS • Ciudad de Gualeguay @ 421779 • CODTA @ 424362 • Costera Criolla @ 423666 • Empresa San José @ 423542 • Empresa Tres Bocas • Flecha Bus @ 423542/3 • TATA/Central El Rápido @ 422947 • T.A. Chevallier For service details see Buses from Paraná on page 971, from Gualeguay on page 956, and from Gualeguaychú on page 961. Services • Diamante (21 2hrs); 2 daily • Gualeguay (31 2hrs); 9 daily • Gualeguaychú (51 2hrs); 4 daily • Nogoyá; 5 daily • Paraná (13 4hrs); 8 daily

A Festivals • •

Fiesta Provincial Criolla. (Provincial Rancher Festival): October Fiesta Provincial del Carnaval: February

B Tourist information •

Centro de Información, Alem 62 @ 421885 fax 422204/421606

C Accommodation

A Residencial Plaza, Congreso 455 @ 421431 $G 2 A Residencial San Luis, H. Yrigoyen 700 E @ 421294 $G 2 A Residencial El Parque, Alem 222 @ 421315 $G 2 A Residencial Victoria (Reggiardo), España 223 F @ 421835 $I 1 Accommodation on RN 11 • Posada La Mentada @ 424423 $D 2 . Full board

# Water transport

•

Y Shopping

D Camping •

•

Camping Municipal Victorio Brasseco, 1 km from town; hot water, showers, toilets, electricity; restaurant, also cabañas. Fishing, water sports

• • •

•

•

Disco Momentos, Laprida 520

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Bulevar Mitre 473 Telephone: Telecom, Bartoloni 522

•

M Services and facilities •

Rowing Club Victoria, Avenida Belgrano near Dorrego @ 422148

p Sightseeing

Restaurant Comedor La Tablita, Balneario Municipal Restaurant Comedor Rizzi, H. Yrigoyen 700 Restaurant El Viejo Roble, Sarmiento 470 Bar Alem, Alem 65. Bar

n Entertainment •

Honey liqueur from the Benedictine monastery

a Sport

•

E Eating out •

Expreso Delta Quinto @ 424217; daily ferry services Victoria–Rosario (5 hrs)

•

Fishing gear: Casa Barrera, España 77

S Buses

The bus terminal is on the corner of Junín and Alem @ 421885. Bus companies • A.G.O.

979

Monasterio Benedictino (Benedictine Monastery), 2 km outside town on RP 11. The monastery’s church with its large marble altar is worth a visit Cerro La Matanza y Monte de los Ombúes, north-east of the town center in Barrio Abadía. The cross was erected to commemorate a bloody battle fought between Spaniards and Indians in the eighteenth century. From here there are views of the ombúes forest and the lakes created by the waters of the Río Victoria and Río Paraná Museo Arqueológico Indígena, 25 de Mayo 218 near V. Sarsfield Museo de la Ciudad “Carlos A. Anadón” (Carlos A. Anadon City Museum), Ave. Congreso 593. A small but interesting collection including pre-Columbian archeological artifacts and fossils found in the area

Victoria

MESOPOTAMIA s Excursions Tour operators • Chulengo Safaris, Bulevar Moreno, Local 55 @ 22648. Fishing trips

VILLA ELISA

Villa Elisa Population: 8000 Postal code: 3265 Distance from Colón: 30 km west on RP 26

V

illa Elisa is a small town located on the road to Villaguay. It was founded in 1890 by immigrants from western Switzerland and from Piedmont and Savoy. A few blocks from the town center is the Museo Histórico Regional y de Sciencias Naturales; this is the former main building of a hacienda built in 1895. On exhibit are objects and memorabilia linked to the town’s founder. Attached is a small zoo with animals found in the region. In town you can do a train ride on a small section of the former railroad.

B Tourist information •

•

Terminal de Omnibus @ (03447) 480146/480139; fax (03447) 480020

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Hoflack 1415 @ (03447) 480235. TATA/Central El Rápido runs 1 service daily to Concepción del Uruguay and Colón.

C Accommodation

Hotel Firpo, San Martín 1507 AELPV @ (03447) 480436 $H 2 A Residencial La Victoria, Castelli 1537 LP @(03447) 480286 *

U Motoring

•

E Eating out •

Cafetería Les Gents, San Martín 1374

Y.P.F., Avenida Urquiza 1530

Comedor El Paisano, Bulevar Schroeder 1430

VILLAGUAY

Villaguay Population: 27 000 Postal code: 3240 @ area code: (03455) Distance from Paraná: 155 km eastwards on RN 18

V

illaguay was founded in 1833 and is located in the geographical center of the province on the Río Gualeguay. It developed around a chapel made from clay and straw dedicated to Santa Rosa de Lima. The Palacio Municipal now occupies the site. The beaches on the Río Gualegay have camping facilities. Projects are studied to use the the recently discovered thermal water to boost tourism.

Villa Elisa

980

ENTRE RÍOS I Post and telegraph

Temperatures average 28°C (82°F) in summer and 15°C (59°F) in winter. Between October and January the Encuentro Entrerriano de Folklore is held which attracts musicians and tourists from all over the province. Artists present the latest compositions of chamarritas and chamamés or local songs; dance competitions are also held.

• •

S Buses

The bus terminal is on L. Herreras near Frías; it includes a restaurant. Bus companies • Ciudad de Colonia • Ciudad de Paraná • El Aguila • Flecha Bus • San José • San Vicente • TATA Central El Rápido

B Tourist information •

Dirección de Turismo de La Municipalidad de Villaguay, San Martín 274 @ 421331/421008 fax; e-mail: [email protected]. com.ar

Bus services • Bovril; 3 daily • Colón (13 4hrs); 5 daily • Concepción del Uruguay (21 4hrs); 7 daily • Concordia (23 4hrs); 4 daily • Federación (33 4hrs); 3 daily • Gualeguychú; 2 daily

C Accommodation

Apart Hotel Las Liebres, Paso 565 1 421134 $G 2 A Residencial Torino, Balcarce 299 near Mitre @ 421003/421607 $H 2 • Hotel Colonial, Vértiz 565 @ 422070 $G 2 • Hotel Continental, B. Mitre 25 @ (03456) 421459 • Hotel Las Liebres, Colón 645 @ 424345 Accommodation outside town * Motel El Lucero, intersection RN 18 with RN 12 @ 421048 $H 2 *

U Motoring

•

•

Service station: Shell, at the intersection of RN 12 and RN 18

a Sport

• •

E Eating out •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Moreno near Necochea Telephone: Telecom, Colón 250

Restaurant La Solita, Maestra Michelena 447. Local cuisine Restaurant Ribera, Rivadavia 540. Local cuisine

Boat hire, at the Parque Balneario Municipal, 2 km east of town Aero Club Villaguay, Hermelo 139 @ (03455) 422283/421444; nine holes

p Sightseeing

•

Eating out on RN 12 • Restaurant El Lucero (in the Shell service station), at the intersection of RN 12 and RN 18

Museo Histórico Regional (Regional Historical Museum), corner of Balcarce and Hermelo. Open Mon–Sat 09:00–12:00 and 15:00–19:00

VILLA LIBERTADOR GENERAL SAN MARTÍN Villa Libertador General San Martín Population: 4500 Postal code: 3103 @ area code: (0343) Distance from Paraná: 62 km south-east on RN 12, then westwards on RN 131 981

Villa Libertador General San Martín

MESOPOTAMIA

T

he origins of Villa Libertador San Martín go back to 1898 when the Seventh Day Adventists founded a college here. A rural college was added later on; this has grown now into a major education center.

B Tourist information •

E Eating out

• •

Información Turística de la Municipalidad, Sarmiento near Buenos Aires @ 4999297/491008/ 49102302 fax

S Buses

C Accommodation

The bus terminal is in Buenos Aires near J.V. González. • Libertador San Martín • TATA Central El Rápido

Hotel Puiggari, 9 de Julio 80 @ 4910101 * Hotel Colonial, Rivadavia near Alberdi @ 4910010 A Residencial Central, 25 de Mayo 150 @ 4910034 $H 2 A Residencial La Colina, 25 de Mayo 50 @ 4910029 $H 2 B Residencial Libertador, 25 de Mayo 124 @ 4910129 $H 2 • Hospedaje Flück, Sarmiento 41 @ 4910016 • Cabañas El Ciervo Colorado, 25 de Mayo near Pasteur @ 4910475 $G 4 • Cabañas El Pinar, 25 de Mayo 471 @ 4910077 $G 4 ***

Villa Paranacito Postal code: 2823 @ area code: (03446)

Restaurant Gerana, Uruguay Restaurant La Rueda, J.V. González 135

U Motoring

•

Y.P.F., Rivadavia near 9 de Julio

s Excursions

•

Salto del Arroyo Ensenada, also known as Ander Egg, some 10 km from town. Take turnoff to the “coast” from RP 131; also camping area

VILLA PARANACITO

V

illa Paranacito is located in the Río Uruguay estuary. It lies in swamp land and is subject to regular annual flooding. For this reason the town is a hybrid consisting of streets and canals. Many houses are built on stilts. The turnoff east from RN 12 is a few kilometers north of the Complejo Zárate–Brazo Largo. The road goes through swamps and marshes RN 12 has been recently upgraded north of the Complejo Zárate–Brazo Largo.

B Tourist information •

•

Municipalidad, Ave. Entre Ríos @ 495222, fax 495197

C Accommodation

D Camping

•

Accommodation is geared towards the fishermen and rather rustic. • Hospedaje Lismann, Ave. Entre Ríos @ 495269 • Hospedaje de Teresa Peter, Ave. Entre Ríos @ 495101 • Hospedaje Marcelita, Ave. Entre Ríos @ 495134 Villa Paranacito

Hostería Rosemarie de Carlos Navarro, Arroyo Martínez @ (03446) 495204/495181

•

Complejo Turístico Municipal, Arroyo La Tinta near Sagastume Grande @ 495149 Camping Top Maló, RP 46 @ 495250

E Eating out

•

982

Restaurante El Galpón, Ave. Entre Ríos

ENTRE RÍOS S Buses

# Water transport

Not all bus companies enter the township but stop at the access road leading from RN 12 to Paranacito. Remis Sabrimar @ 495123 connects with bus schedules.

Although the town is accessible by road, much of the traffic is on the canals. • Lancha Taxi, Ave. Entre Ríos @ 495123 • Catamarán El Supremo, @ 47404705; river excursions

VILLA URQUIZA

Villa Urquiza Population: 2200 Postal code: 3113 @ area code: (0343) Distance from Paraná: 45km north on RN 12

V

illa Urquiza is a small fishing village situated on the Paraná river. The turnoff west is just past La Picada. It was founded in 1853 as a military agricultural colony. This is the latest addition to the growing fishing resorts on the Río Paraná with adequate tourist facilities.

E Eating out

Fishing trips and river cruises to little islands are organized by the locals. The turnoff is from RN 12 at KM 30. This is the place for those who want to spend a few quiet and relaxing days on sandy beaches. Opposite the main plaza is a small regional museum. There are camping facilities along the river; private accommodation only. This is an excellent spot to fish for dorados, surubís, and patí.

•

• •

I Post and telegraph

•

Telephone: Telecom, Centro Cívico

M Services and facilities

B Tourist information •

Restaurant Archibaldo, Avenida Alameda de la Bajada near Los Zorzales. Sr. Federico Dreissigacker also organizes cruises, fishing trips, and photographic safaris. The disco operates only during the vacation season, January–February Restaurant El Churrasquito Pub La Villa, Avenida Alameda de la Bajada

•

Información Turística, Los Aromos @ (0343) 4872002

Camping and fishing gear: Corralón Casalongue

S Buses

C Accommodation •

Empresa El Entrerriano and Empresa Transporte Urquiza run 8 services daily; refer Bus services from Paraná on page 971. There is also a launch/ferry service from Paraná.

Complejo Turístico Las Cabañas, @ 4872028 Bungalows • Villa Urquiza @ 4872094/097 • Villa Naty, Avenida Costanera del Sol @ 4872023 • Los Iglúes, Avenida Costanera near Calle 007 @ 4315127

983

Villa Urquiza

MESOPOTAMIA

Stopovers

I

STOPOVERS

n this section I have listed those towns which are not on the normal tourist trail but have some facilities. •

Basavilbaso Nearest town described: Rosario del Tala 28 km west on RN 131 (page 974) • Hotel Martínez, Dr Uchitel 473 @ (03445) 481052

•

San Salvador Nearest town described: Concordia 80 km north-east on RN 18 (page 946) • Hotel San Salvador, 3 de febrero 40 @ (0345) 4910282 • Hotel Tres de Febrero, 3 de Febrero 64 @ (0345) 4910231 Seguí Nearest town described: Crespo (page 951) • Hotel Don Antonio, Libertad 450 @ (0343)4880347 Urdinarraín Nearest town described: Gualeguaychú 48 km south-east on RP 20 (page 957) • Hotel Nogaró, Libertad 551 @ (03446) 480122 Viale Nearest town described: Paraná 58 km east on RN 18 (page 966) A Residencial Los Cedros, Santa Fe 280 @ (0343) 4920034 $G 2

Bovril Nearest town described: Paraná 129 km south-west traveling first on RP 127 and then on RN 12 (page 966) Empresa San Vicente, El Tigre/La Victoria, and TATA/Central El Rápido each run 2 services daily between Paraná and Federal; TATA/Central El Rápido runs 1 service daily to Gualeguay. A Residencial Sayonara, Avenida San Martín 262 @ 03438) 421102 $G 2 • Hospedaje Cachito, General F Ramírez 351 @ (03438) 421467 Hasenkamp Nearest town described: Paraná 53 km south-west on RN 127 and the RN 12 (page 966) • Hotel Miser, S. Bolívar 290 @ (0343) 4930071 María Grande Nearest town described: Paraná 45 km south-west on RN 127 and then RN 12 (page 966)

Stopovers

Hotel Bustamente, D.F. Sarmiento 111 @ (0343) 4940035 Hotel Artigas, General Artigas @ (0343) 4940727

984

MISIONES MESOPOTAMIA Misiones ISIONES

Plate 24 987 989 990 991 992 994 994 996 997 998 999 1000 1001 1004 1007 1008 1014 1014 1017 1022 1023 1025 1025 1026

Map of Misiones Map of public transport Alba Posse Apóstoles Aristóbulo del Valle Bernardo de Irigoyen Dos de Mayo Eldorado El Soberbio Jardín América Leandro N Alem Montecarlo Oberá Map Posadas Map Map of city center Puerto Esperanza Puerto Iguazú Map Puerto Rico San Ignacio San Javier San Pedro San Vicente

CSU# ABCEJKSUprs ACDESUps BCEJKLQSUs BCDESU BCDEJKLPSUs ABCDEJKS#s BCDESUs ACDEISUs ABCDEJKLSU#aeps ABCEnJKLMOSUYps ABCDEnJKLMSNOPQRUVW#Y a ps CEISUs ABCDEnJKLPQRSUVWYps BCDEISU#ps BCDEISUprst CES#p CESUps ACDESU

isiones sticks out of the north-eastern corner of Argentina like a thumb. Like Corrientes and Entre Ríos, it is almost entirely surrounded by rivers. Along the north-west, the Río Alto Paraná forms a long border with Paraguay. To the north, east, and south-east is Brazil, the border in the south-east formed by the Río Uruguay, in the east and north

M

985

Misiones

MESOPOTAMIA by the Río Pepiri Guazú and Río San Antonio, and in the north by the Río Iguazú. The short south-eastern border with Corrientes province incorporates the Arroyo Chimiray. Misiones, with its capital at Posadas, is one of the most interesting provinces for the tourist, with roaring waterfalls — the Cataratas del Iguazú, Gran Salto de Moconá, and Salto Encantado — rainforest, mountainous areas in the center, and the archeological remains of early Jesuit settlements. Throughout Misiones, the Río Paraná is called the Río Alto Paraná, or “Upper Paraná”.

along the Río Alto Paraná and Río Uruguay; Apóstoles is located inland. The missions were created from 1631 onwards, and managed to induce the Guaranís to adopt a European-style political, religious, and economic system. When the Jesuits were expelled from all Spanish territories their mission centers fell into disrepair, and were gradually abandoned and eventually overgrown by the jungle. The ruins of a few remain.

History

Economy

As its name indicates, during the 16th and 17th centuries Misiones was the domain of Jesuit missions. Armed with a charter from the King of Spain, missionaries settled first in the area around the Río Alto Paraná, Río Guayra in Brazil, and Río Guaycurú, and made successful attempts to convert the local Guaranís to Christianity and to make the land productive. However, Brazilian slave hunters — “Paulistas” or “Mamelucos” — forced the Jesuits to abandon their settlements and to flee to the area which is now Misiones, where they established further missions, flourishing outposts of European civilization. The most important — San José, Corpus, Santa Ana, La Candelaria, Loreto, and San Ignacio Miní — are located

Key to map

A8 Aristóbulo del Valle A28 Central Argentino A47 Cotal A52 El Canario A100 Empresa Kurtz A113 Expreso Tigre Iguazú A132 Expreso Singer A142 Horianski A148 Klein

Misiones

Misiones is one of the richest agricultural provinces in Argentina and produces almost 90 per cent of the country’s total production in yerba maté, tea, tung, and mandioca. These products in turn have fostered ancillary industries which are located in the prosperous communities of Apóstoles, Montecarlo, Oberá, Puerto Rico, and in the provincial capital Posadas itself. The timber industry is also very important, with one of the biggest timber mills and cellulose plants located in Puerto Piray, Puerto Esperanza, and Puerto Mineral on the Río Paraná. A vigorous reafforestation program is under way to replenish cut timber.

A149 Kruse A177 Martignoni A273 Crucero del Norte A277 La Nueva Estrella A278 San Cristóbal A279 Empresa Eldorado A281 Empresa Águila Dorada A288 Empresa Cóndor A289 Candelaria

986

A290 Don Tito A311 Empresa Lazo A332 Empresa Chito A333 Empresa Oro Verde A334 Nuestra Señora del Rosario A335 Capital del Monte A336 Warenicia

MISIONES B U S C O M PA N IE S I N M IS I O N E S P R O V I N C E FOZ DO IGUAÇU

P.N. IGUAZÚ

C IUDAD DEL ESTE

SAN ANTONIO

A149

A149

PUERTO IGUAZÚ A28, A47, A52, A100, A113 A142, A14 9, A177, A279

WANDA

BERNARDO DE IRIGOYEN A8, A47, A149, A333, A334

A47, A100 A113 A142, A177,A27 9

PTO. ESPERANZA TOBUNA A47, A100, A142 , A177, A279

CERRO 60

A28, A1 32, A142, A148 A17 7, A279, A332, A333

ELDORADO A47, A52, A100, A113, A13 2, A142, A177, A279, A333

MONTECARLO SALTOS DEL MOCONÁ A8, A47, A100, A113, A142 A149, A177, A279, A333

BRAZIL

SAN PEDRO

PARAGUAY

EL ALCAZÁR SAN VICENTE A 132,273 A A 290,34 A

EL SOBERBIO PUERTO RICO

A13 2, A148 A33 4, A335

DOS DE MAYO A132, A273, A333

A47, A1 00, A113, A142 A177, A279, A311

ARISTÓBULO DEL VALLE A13 2, A142, A273, A331, A332, A333 , A336

JARDÍN AMÉRICA CAMPO GRANDE A132, A273, A333

A47, A100, A113, A132, A14 2 A177,A279, A332, A336

CAMPO VIERA A333

ALBA POS SE A13 2, A331

CORPUS A289

OBERÁ SAN IGNACIO A52, A132, A14 2, A290 A332, A333, A335

A47, A113, A1 32 A148, A142, A177 A279, A289, A332

PUERTO PANAMBÍ

SANTA ANA A28 9, A332

L .N. ALEM A13 2, A290 A27 3, A281

ENCARNACIÓN

SAN JAVIER POSADAS

CANDELARIA A28 1, A334 A289

A28, A47, A52, A100, A113, A132, A142, A148, A149, A177, A273, A277, A278, A279, A281, A288, A2 89, A290, A311, A332, A333, A33 4, A335, A336

SAN JOSÉ

CONCEPCIÓN DE LA SIERRA APÓSTOLES A113, A13 2, A142, A273 A277, A27 8, A288, A336

987

Misiones

MESOPOTAMIA • • •

Tourism Misiones is still largely untouched, with large areas of subtropical rain forests, the home of many South American species in retreat from the advance of civilization. The most popular tourist attraction is without doubt the Cataratas del Iguazú (known in English as the Iguazú Falls) located in the Parque Nacional del Iguazú in the northernmost corner of the province on the Brazilian border. Argentina shares the Iguazú Falls with Brazil, where they are known as “Iguaçu”. The flora and fauna of this national park is unsurpassed and a trip here is a must on a visit to Argentina. Another spectacular waterfall is the Gran Salto de Moconá, situated on the Río Uruguay where the Río Pepiri Guazú and the Río Pepiri Miní join it. These rivers form the border with Brazil, and the falls are best visited with a tour operator. Fishing for dorado, surubí, and other tropical fish is good in all rivers of the province, with a major sport fishing ground in the Reserva Provincial Isla Caraguatay on the Río Alto Paraná. Posadas, the provincial capital, is located on the Río Alto Paraná opposite Encarnación in Paraguay. The road from Posadas north to Puerto Iguazú is virtually lined with the ruins of mission settlements, of which the best-preserved is probably San Ignacio Miní. Other mission settlements along this route are Santa Ana and Loreto; near Concepción de la Sierra on the Río Uruguay are the ruins of the Santa María mission.

To Paraguay

• •

Corpus–Puerto Maní andBella Vista Puerto Rico–Puerto Triunfo

Infrastructure The road system, especially along the Río Paraná, is good. It consists of some 3700 km of which approximately 1600 km are paved, including the full length of RN 12. Paving of RN 14 going from Oberá through the center of the province to link up with the Eldorado road to Bernardo de Irigoyen is nearly complete. Regular bus services connect the province with all parts of Argentina. Accommodation is available in all major cities, but in remote areas camping is usual; in fact most camping areas in the interior along RN 14 are located in particularly scenic areas near waterfalls and rock pools. The area around Aristóbulo del Valle is recommended for outdoor lovers. Although most visitors will only spend enough time to visit the major tourist attractions, the province offers some remarkable spots off the beaten track, almost all of which can be reached by public transport. The interior and the area along the Brazilian border are now opening up to tourists. The trip from Eldorado across the Sierra de Misiones to Bernardo de Irigoyen can be made with Empresa ETCE, Kruse, Empresa Eldorado and Oro Verde (fare $5.00); and the trip to Bernardo de Irigoyen along the Río San Antonio through the Parque Nacional del Iguazú can be made with Empresa Kruse (fare $5.00).

Ferry and launch services To Brazil • Alba Posse–Porto Magua Misiones

El Soberbio–Porto Soberbio Panambí–De la Cruz San Javier–Porto Magua

988

MISIONES It is possible to make a very scenic trip right through the center of the province from Oberá to Puerto Iguazú with Empresa Aguila Dorada and Empresa Blanco. A recent creation is the Parque Provincial Cruce Caballero near the Guaraní settlement of Tobuna. Apparently thereare several other names for the same park, such as Parque Provincial de la Araucaria and Parque Provincial El Cruce. See Excursions from Eldorado on page 996.

More rapids are near Corpus also Isla Pindo-í where fishing is supposed to be excellent. Fifty km further downstream you can land at Puerto Viejo, which is the shortest route up the banks to the Jesuit ruins at San Ignacio. Twenty km downstream is the imposing Peñon del Teyú Cuaré (formerly the Peñon de la Reina Victoria. The flow of the water slows as you approach Posadas as there is the beginning of the lake created by the huge Yacyretá project in Corrientes Province. The imposing two-kilometer-long Puente Beato Roque González links Posadas with Encarnación in Paraguay. This kayak trip can be done in six days. Misiones can be visited all year round. The most rewarding tourist targets are:

For the adventurous Paraná river trip Between Puerto Iguazú — or rather Hito Tres Fronteras — and Posadas the Río Paraná is a fast-flowing river running between steep banks covered with lush green tropical vegetation. This makes for an interesting 350 km river trip from the junction of the Río Iguazú and the Río Alto Paraná to Posadas. Forty kilometers below the junction is the Salto Yacú Argentina which has a drop of 40 m. This would be the point where canoeing enthusiasts would have to portage their kayaks. Shortly afterwards the Río Urigua- í joins the Río Paraná. Just before arriving at Puerto Viejo de El Dorado is the lush Isla Parehá. Before and after Montecarlo there are more rapids; a stop is suggested in Montecarlo.

Don’t miss

& Parque Nacional del Iguazú with the Cataratas del Iguazú

Worth a visit & San Ignacio Miní Worth a detour & Gran Salto de Moconá and Posadas Of interest

& Puerto

Iguazú, Oberá, Montecarlo and Aristóbulo del Valle

ALBA POSSE

Alba Posse Population: 7000 Postal code: 3363 @ area code: (03755) Altitude: 136 m Distance from Posadas: 160 km east on RN 12 then RN 103

989

Alba Posse

MESOPOTAMIA

A

lba Posse is a border town on the Río Uruguay. Here the river is about 350 m wide but still fast flowing.

C Accommodation

•

Accommodation outside Alba Posse B Hotel de Turismo Correa, Ruta 8, Santa Rita (8 km north of Alba Posse) L $I 1 • Residencial de José, Santa Rita, @ 484117 $I 1

U Motoring

RN 103 to Oberá has been paved. RP 219 from Aristóbulo del Valle to 25 de Mayo is being upgraded.

# Water transport

S Buses • •

Puerto Rico ($7.50; 4 hrs); departs 16:10 daily; Empresa La Victoria

•

Aristóbulo del Valle (3 hrs); Departs 11:30; 3 daily, Empresa La Victoria Oberá ($2.50; 2 hrs); 6 daily from 05:50; Expreso Singer

Launch and ferry services to Porto Magua (Brazil): $2.00; depart 08:00–17:00 Mon–Fri and 09:00–16:00 Sat–Sun; 2 services only on Sunday

APÓSTOLES

Apóstoles Population: 18 000 Postal code: 3350 @ area code: (03758) Altitude: 160 m Distances • From Posadas: 65 km south on RP 105 • From San Javier: 87 km south on RP 201 then east on RP 2

A

póstoles was first founded as a Jesuit mission settlement in 1633 but abandoned in 1637. The modern town was founded in 1897. The majority of the population is of Slavic origin. It is a center of the province’s yerba maté production.

A Festivals •

I Post and telegraph

•

Fiesta Nacional de la Yerba Maté, July

B Tourist information •

•

Dirección de Turismo, Alvear near Avenida Sarmiento @ 422665/423404

S Buses

The bus terminal is located on Sarmiento; it includes restaurant El Tandilero. Bus companies • Crucero del Norte @ 422747 • Empresa Río Uruguay, C. Andresito 34 @ 422354 • Expreso Singer @ 422612 • Vía Bariloche, Int. J. Zubrzyck @ 423585

C Accommodation •

Hostería Apóstoles, Avenida Primeros Colonos 1750 AEFHPR @ 422650 $H 1 C Residencial Misiones, Alvear 444 HS @ 422402 $H 2 • Hotel de Turismo Luz y Fuerza, H. Yrigoyen S @ 422650 $G 2

E Eating out •

Restaurant La Taberna de Julio, Belgrano 620

Apóstoles

Post office; Correo Argentino, Avenida Sarmiento 322 Telephone: Telecom, 9 de Julio 574

990

MISIONES Destinations • Buenos Aires (14 hrs); 7 daily; Crucero del Norte Expreso Singer, La Nueva Estrella and Tigre Iguazú • Posadas ($3.30; 11 4 hrs); 18 daily from 05:30; Crucero del Norte, Horianski, San Cristóbal, Cóndor • Santo Tomé ($5.00; 21 2 hrs); 2 daily from 06:30; Empresa Crucero del Norte

Excursions • Santa María: Apóstoles is a convenient starting point for the trip to the ruins of this mission settlement, founded by the Jesuits in the middle of the seventeenth century and now a national monument. The normal Jesuit mission layout was adhered to, with the exception of the prison block which has walls of extra thickness. Below the cell block was a corridor which led to the church. The church was adorned by huge columns. A printing press was established here in 1722. The present-day chapel was built using materials from the Jesuit mission. There is a bus from Apóstoles to Santa María via Concepción de la Sierra. RP 2 is being paved between Concepción de la Sierra and San Javier

U Motoring •

Service station: Y.P.F., Belgrano 1025

p Sightseeing •

Museo y Archivo Histórico de Apóstoles (Museum and Historical Archives of Apostóles), Belgrano 845. Open daily 07:00–12:00 and 15:00–19:00

s Excursions Tour operators • Turismo Norte, Belgrano 683

ARISTÓBULO DEL VALLE

Aristóbulo del Valle Population: 20 000 Postal code: 3364 @ area code: (0755) Distance from Posadas: 140 km north-east on RN 12 then east on RP 7

L

ocated in the center of the province in the Sierra de Misiones, Aristóbulo del Valle is the center of the local logging industry. En route to San Vicente are nearby waterfalls: Salto Alegre and Salto Piedras Blancas. The town is on the intersection of RP 7 to Jardín América on the Río Paraná, and RN 14 running north-east to San Pedro and on to Bernardo de Irigoyen on the Brazilian border and south to Campo Grande, Oberá, and Leandro N Alem. The open space around the town hall has many sculptures. From Aristóbulo del Valle you are within easy reach of Parque Provincial Salto Encantado; Salto

Encantado has a free fall of 70 m. The park has 13 000 ha (32 120 acres).

Campo Grande Campo Grande is a small town 19 km south of Aristóbulo del Valle on RN 14. In the vicinity are several waterfalls with tourist facilities, the major attraction being Salto Chávez with Complejo Turístico Los Gringos.

A Festivals

•

991

Festival del Salto Encantado (Festival of the Encantado Falls): August

Aristóbulo del Valle

MESOPOTAMIA C Accommodation

Posadas (3 hrs), to Bernardo de Irigoyen on the Brazilian border, to El Soberbio on the Río Uruguay, and to San Pedro further north in the Sierra de Misiones.

•

Hotel del Parque, Ave. Las Américas 568 ACDFHKTY @ 470700 C Residencial El Amigo, Avenida Las Americas 739 F @ 490275 $H 2 • Hostería Gicel, Avenida Las Américas near RN 7 @ 490159 $H 2 • Albergue Privado Adventista$J 1 Accommodation in Campo Grande B Residencial Suizo, KM 19 L @ 499166 $I 2

U Motoring

•

p Sightseeing

•

D Camping • •

• •

Museo Histórico Regional (Regional Historical Museum) San Martín

s Excursions

•

Complejo Parque Salto Encantado, 10 km north of town. Restaurant and natural swimming pool Complejo Turístico Don Mario, RN 14 with rock pool

•

E Eating out •

Service station: Y.P.F., Avenida de las Américas 1005

Restaurant Atlantis, Avenida de las Américas 839 Restaurant Tote, Avenida de las Américas Pizzería El Amigo, Avenida de las Américas

S Buses

Empresas Chito, Horianski and Oro Verde run 5 services daily to Oberá and

Aristóbulo del Valle is in the heart of Misiones, and although logging of the primeval forest is going on unabated some of the original subtropical rainforest cover can still be seen Just outside town on RP 7 to Jardín América the road descends giving splendid views over a forested valley. There is a camping spot on the right-hand side 18 km further on. This section of the road is a tourist area, and there are two viewing platforms. If you are traveling by bus sit on the right-hand side. After 22 km pine plantations and some cultivated land reappear, but it is still a very scenic trip

BERNARDO DE IRIGOYEN

Bernardo de Irigoyen Population: 4000 Postal code: 3366 @ area code: (03741) Altitude: 805 m Distances • From Puerto Iguazú: 157 km south-east on RP 101 • From Eldorado: 127 km east on RP 17

B

ernardo de Irigoyen, on the Río Pepiri Guazú, is the easternmost town in Argentina. Across the border is the Brazilian town of Dionisio Cerqueira, and the two towns virtually merge into each other. This is a relatively relaxed land border crossing.

B Tourist information •

C Accommodation

Hotel de Turismo, Avenida Libertador, down from the bus terminal AELPV @ 420026 $G 2 C Residencial Bernardo de Irigoyen, in the main street after the turn-off to the

Oficina Municipal de Turismo, Avenida Soberanía Nacional

Bernardo de Irigoyen

*

992

MISIONES s Excursions

border, on the left of the road to San Antonio

•

E Eating out

Besides the A.C.A. Motel there is not much choice here. However, it is only a short walk across the border to Dionisio Cerqueira where there are plenty of fairly good restaurants. • Restaurant A.C.A., RN 14 • Restaurant Bella Vista, RN 14

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Andrés Guacarí Telephone: Telecom, Florentino Ameghino

L Financial

Cash dollars can only be exchanged in Dionisio Cerqueira in Brazil.

Q Border crossing

Passport control is open 07:00–19:00. Argentine passport control is directly at the border. The Brazilian Policia Federal is two blocks (200 m) further up in the main street of Dionisio Cerqueira on the lefthand side.

S Buses

•

There is a bus terminal on the hill just up from the A.C.A. Motel. In Dionisio Cerqueira in Brazil the bus terminal (“Rodoviaria”) is approximately seven blocks from the border, and there are services to many Brazilian destinations. There are no services to Foz do Iguaçu through Brazil, and it is better to go to Puerto Iguazú and from there to Foz do Iguaçu. • El Dorado ($6.00; 21 2 hrs); 4 daily from 06:30; COTAL, Empresa Kruse, Empresa Oro Verde • Posadas: 2 daily; Oro Verde, Nuestra Señora del Rosario • Puerto Iguazú ($6.50; 5 hrs); departs 11:30 daily, Empresa Kruse

Puerto Iguazú: RN 101. Some 10 km north is the Salto Andresito, but it is not visible from the road. For a while the road follows the Brazilian border; the first major settlement you reach is San Antonio with its twin Brazilian town, also called San Antônio. Here the Río San Antonio joins the Río Iguazú. Further down the river is the Salto de Agua Tupa. The whole area is intensively logged and most of the dense subtropical rain forest has disappeared. The bus makes a few detours to serve the small (and some not so small) new settlements which have sprung up here over the last 15 years, such as Deseado and Cabure-I. The Parque Nacional del Iguazúú starts 3 km after Cabure-I, and for the next 32 km there are no cleared patches and all is dense subtropical jungle in which abundant bird life and the occasional monkey can be seen. This is the last vestige of the original subtropical rainforest which once covered the whole province of Misiones. At the entrance to the national park is a ranger station-cum-information kiosk San Pedro and Oberá via Tobuna: Empresa Kruse buses connect at San Pedro with buses traveling through the center of the province to Oberá. This is a trip through the part of Misiones unknown to most tourists. RN 14 between Bernardo de Irigoyen and San Pedro is a dirt road. There are two services daily for the two-hour journey to San Pedro. Near Tobuna is Salto Alegría

U Motoring

RN 101 to Puerto Iguazú is unsealed until it reaches the entrance to the Parque Nacional Iguazú. • Service station: Y.P.F., RP 17

993

Bernardo de Irigoyen

MESOPOTAMIA

DOS DE MAYO

Dos de Mayo Postal code: 3364 @ area code: (03755) Distance from Posadas: 180 km north-east on RN 12 then RN 7 and RN 14, via Jardín América

D

os de Mayo is a fast-growing community in the Sierra de Misiones, in the center of the province. Economic activities include logging and the production of tea and yerba maté, which are locally dried. Visit Lago Alejandro Orloff about 7 km from town centre and Salto Orquídea off RN 14. The waterfall has a free fall of 40 m and is best reached from nearby Camping Municipal.

B Tourists information •

E Eating out

•

Municipalidad @ 496002/496040

C Accommodation •

•

S Buses

Buses run regularly to Posadas, Oberá, and San Pedro.

Alojamiento Alex, RN 14, KM 236 @ 496028 $H 2 Residencial Nany, Avenida El Colono near 9 de Julio @ 496197 $I 1

U Motoring

•

D Camping •

Restaurant Centro Comunitario

Service station: Y.P.F., town center

Camping El Saltito, RN 14 KM 7

ELDORADO

Eldorado Population: 39 000 Postal code: 3380 @ area code: (03751) Altitude: 215 m Distances • From Posadas: 206 km north-east on RN 12 • From Bernardo de Irigoyen: 93 km west on RP 17 • From Puerto Iguazú: 101 km south on RN 12

E

ldorado is a modern town situated near the banks of the Río Alto Paraná. From Puerto Eldorado Viejo, on the river, the town stretches away in an east–westerly direction for 12 km, bisected by the RN 12. Roads crossing the highway are affixed with (O) for oeste (west) and (E) for este (east). It is a center of yerba maté, tea, tung cultivation, and saw-mills. There are also citrus orchards. The town center is about 3 km up from the intersection with the RN 12. It is a suitable place for a stopover, with good restaurants and accommodation.

B Tourist information •

D Camping

•

Rotonda RN 12 and RP 17 @ 424429

Dos de Mayo

994

Camping Parque Schwelm, Puerto El Dorado

MISIONES C Accommodation in Eldorado Hotels **

Eldorado A.C.A., Esperanza, KM 9 Fax 421870 Atlántida, San Martín 716

AEFGJLPUV

@ @

421370 421441

$G $G

2 2

@ @ @ @ @

421097 421415 422354 421348 421855

$H $H $H $H $H

2 2 2 2 2

@ @ @

422279 431037 421685

$I $I

2 2

A Residencial Los Troncos, Alberdi 214 near Rotonda KM 6 ELP @ 424688

$I

2

*

AELPV

Residenciales

A Alpa, Córdoba near Rioja KM 9 LP A Buddenberg, Avenida San Martín 916LP B Alex, San Martín (E) 1850 near Voisi L B Castelar, San Martín (E) 1010 L B Esmeralda, San Martín (E) 1578 EL B La Misionera, San Martín (E) 1763 L C Parque, Triunvirato • Alemán, San Martín 367 • Ideal, Paraguay 9

Accommodation on RN 12

Accommodation in Piray Mini

B Residencial Victoria, RN 12 KM 1500 L

E Eating out

Bus companies • COTAL • Crucero del Norte @ 420481 • El Canario • Empresa Kurtz • Empresa Iguazú, Ave. San Martín 3305 @ 421426 • Expreso Singer @ 421771 • Oro Verde Services • Bernardo de Irigoyen ($6.00; 2 hrs); 2 daily • Oberá ($6.00) • Posadas (2 hrs); 12 daily • Puerto Iguazú ($3.00; 2 hrs); 12 daily

Restaurants • Club Alemán, • Don Ramón, RN 12 • El Triángulo, Avenida San Martín KM 9 • Paparulo, Rotonda RN 12 and RP 17 • Unión Cultural, Avenida San Martín 3380 Eating out in Puerto Piray Miní Puerto Piray Miní is located 19 km south-west on the Río Paraná. • Restaurant Hotel Victoria

I Post and telegraph • •

U Motoring

Post: Correo Argentino, Avenida San Martín (O) 750 Telephone: Telecom Argentina, Avenida Córdoba near Jujuy

RP 17 to Bernardo de Irigoyen on the Brazilian border is a sealed road with a good surface. Service stations • Y.P.F., Bulevar Fundador • A.C.A., San Martín KM 9

L Financial •

Banco de Galicia y Buenos Aires, Avenida San Martín (E) 1954

s Excursions

P Visas, passports •

•

Swiss consulate, Helvética KM 10 @ 421325

S Buses

The bus terminal is on América near Paraguay; includes restaurant Todo Rico.

995

Bernardo de Irigoyen: RP 17. After leaving Eldorado the road runs straight for many kilometers, alongside the usual pine afforestations, tea and yerba maté plantations interspersed with patches of primeval

Eldorado

MESOPOTAMIA

•

forest. Beyond these the countryside becomes undulating and very green. There is a small cafeteria at the intersection with RP 20 from San Pedro, and from here RP 20 begins a winding descent. See Bernardo de Irigoyen on page 992 Parque Provincial Cruce Caballero. This fairly recent creation is also known as Parque Provincial El Cruce and Parque Provincial de la Araucaria. The main attractions are the huge fern trees and the wildlife, including monkeys. It is located 23 km north-east of San Pedro on the road to Tobuna. Eldorado is the best starting point, but it can also be accessed coming from Aristóbulo del Valle or Oberá. Starting in Eldorado take RP 17 east as far as the intersection with RP 20 at a point called Cerro 60. Turn south into RP 20 and follow south towards San Pedro. Nine kilometers before arriving in San Pedro is a road sign pointing to Tobuna. While the road so far has been sealed all the way now you are entering a bush trail which gets narrower as you proceed. It should be pointed out that this is a very rain-prone area and if rain is threatening this trail becomes almost

•

•

impassable. The entrance is 15 km after the turnoff from RP 20 and there is a park ranger station there. This park is now in an almost completely natural state with a trail to the attractive spots. To make this trip a four-wheel drive is essential, especially if you intend to continue via Tobuna to Bernardo de Irigoyen on the Brazilian border and from there through the back way to Parque Nacional Iguazú. The better alternative is to return to RP 20 and continue south on a sealed road which becomes RN 14 to Aristóbulo del Valle, Oberá, and Posadas. It is possible that a conducted tour is organized by a hotel in Eldorado Salto Elena: These 10 m high falls are nearby. There is a museum, and camping is possible. RP 17 leads westwards over the Sierra de Misiones to Bernardo de Irigoyen on the Río Uruguay Victoria: 9 km on the RN 12. This is a small settlement. There is swimming in Río Piray Miní which joins the Río Alto Paraná nearby. Hiking, rafting, and horse-riding

EL SOBERBIO

El Soberbio Postal code: 3364 @ area code: (03755) Altitude: 147 m Distance from Oberá: 160 km north-east on RN 14 and RP 212

E

l Soberbio is a border town located on the Río Uruguay. It is the starting point for excursions to the Saltos del Moconá. Just before arriving in town there is an Indian reserve.

A Festivals •

C Accommodation

•

Festival de la Esencia (Aromatic Herbs and Perfume Festival): November

D Camping

B Tourist information •

•

Delegación de Turismo @ 495133/495084. Organises trips to the Moconá falls

El Soberbio

Hotel Puesta del Sol, Suipacha S @ 495161 $F 2; also cabins $E for 5

996

Balneario El Plata 7 km west of the town center, is a municipal camping spot surrounded by dense jungle. A small stream nearby forms cascades.

MISIONES # Water transport

Visits to the nearby Indian reserve can be made

Launch services to Brazil depart 08:00–18:00 Mon–Fri, 10:00–16:00 Sat. No services on Sundays.

E Eating out • • •

Restaurant Churrasquería La Criolla, Avenida San Martín Restaurant Doña Josefa, Corrientes Cafetería Saber Bar, Avenida Rivadavia near San Martín

s Excursions Tour operators • Ruli Cabral @ 495010. Organizes 4WD trips to the Moconá falls; $170.00 for five persons • Miguel Tanzi @ 495186. Organizes launch trips to the Moconá falls; $150.00 for three persons Excursions • Gran Salto de Moconá: The Moconá falls are situated 86 km north on a dirt road mostly through dense jungle on the Río Uruguay. Although not as high as the Iguazú falls the Moconá falls are spectacular in their own right and certainly worth a detour. For trip reservations call @ 495255

I Post and telegraph •

Post: Correo Argentino, Avenida Rivadavia

S Buses

The bus terminal is on San Martín near Rivadavia; it has a restaurant attached. • Oberá (5 hrs); 4 daily; Expreso Singer, Capital del Monte • Posadas (5 hrs); 6 daily; Empresa Klein, Nuestra Señora del Rosario

JARDÍN AMÉRICA

Jardín América Population: 20 000 Postal code: 3328 @ area code: (03743) Distances • From Posadas: 98 km north-east on RN 12 • From Aristóbulo del Valle: 40 km west on RP 7

J

ardín América is situated at the junction of RN 12 and RP 7 leading up to Aristóbulo del Valle.

B Tourist information •

D Camping

•

Municipalidad de Jardín América, Belgrano 666 @ 460101/460508

C Accommodation

Camping El Paraíso, Arroyo Tabay, 5 km north of town

E Eating out

•

A Residencial Miguelito, Aconcagua LP @ 496210 $H 2 B Residencial Hotel Brasilia, 9 de Julio 487 L @ 460539 $G 2 C Residencial El Gallo de Oro, RN 12 @ 496199 $I 1 C Residencial Carina, Aconcagua 115 @ 496335 $H 2 Accommodation near Saltos del Tabay • Municipal youth hostel, 7 km north of town $H 1

Restaurant El Salto, on RN 12

S Buses

•

Crucero del Norte @ 460802 ° Posadas; 12 daily, Horianski, Singer, Chito, Oro Verde, Tigre Iguazú ° Puerto Iguazú; 10 daily, Horianski, Singer, Tigre Iguazú Also daily buses to Aristóbulo del Valle, San Pedro, El Soberbio and Oberá.

997

Jardín América

MESOPOTAMIA U Motoring •

Excursions • Saltos del Tabay: 8 km. A 10 m waterfall with natural swimming pool, and camping near Leoni in tropical surroundings; restaurant • Sierra de Misiones: A scenic drive on RP 7 • Salto del Capioví: 21 km north

Service station: Y.P.F., RN 12

s Excursions Tour operators • Jardín Tours, Avenida Libertad 527 @ 460184

LEANDRO N ALEM

Leandro N Alem Population: 21 000 Postal code: 3315 @ area code: (03754) Altitude: 290 m Distance from Posadas: 80 km east on RN 12 then south-east on RP 4

L

eandro N Alem is located in the Sierra del Imán, midway between the Río Paraná and the Río Uruguay, in the southern part of the province. Adjoining the town hall is an exhibition of sculptures carved from wood.

A Festivals •

Services • Apóstoles (11 2 hrs); 2 daily; Crucero del Norte, Expreso Singer • Oberá (1 hr); departs 05:00 daily; Empresa Don Tito • Posadas (2 hrs); 5 daily from 07:45; Capital Monte, Expreso Singer, Expreso Aguila Dorada

Fiesta Provincial de la Cerveza (Provincial Beer Festival): November

C Accommodation •

Hostería 25 de Mayo, 25 de Mayo 158 $H 2; shared bathroom cheaper A Residencial Bambi, Avenida Belgrano 14 LP @ 420108 $H 2 C Residencial Avenida, San Martín near San Lorenzo

U Motoring

•

D Camping •

s Excursions

Camping La Isla, Félix M. Durán near Martín M Güemes, Open in tourist season, lush vegetation, restaurant

Tour operators • Don Tito Viajes, Córdoba 232 @ 420275 Excursions • San Javier on the Río Uruguay: The river makes a sharp U-turn here. There is camping and fishing, and buses run regularly. See San Javier on page 1025 • Santa María: The trip to this major Jesuit mission settlement is better made from Apóstoles; see Excursions from Apóstoles on page 991

E Eating out •

Restaurant Don Diego, Meckin 45

I Post and telegraph •

Telephone: Telecentro, Avenida Belgrano 499

S Buses Bus companies • Empresa Kurtz, M. Moreno @ 422479 • Expreso Singer, terminal @ 420392

Leandro N Alem

Service station: Y.P.F., Belgrano (between Corti and RP 4)

998

MISIONES

MONTECARLO

Montecarlo Population: 15 000 Postal code: 3384 @ area code: (03751) Altitude: 150 m Distances From Posadas: 185 km north-east on RN 12 • From Puerto Iguazú: 101 km south-west on RN 12 •

M

ontecarlo is situated on the Río Alto Paraná, halfway between Posadas and Puerto Iguazú, about 4 km off the main highway. There is a good road connection to Bernardo de Irigoyen on the Brazilian border. The climate is subtropical without a dry season. The mean annual temperature is 27°C (81°F), and the annual precipitation 1780 mm.

D Camping

Montecarlo was founded in 1920, and is the center for local reafforestation, logging, and fruit packing industries. Puerto Piray, some 12 km outside Montecarlo on a turn-off west, is the site of the industrial complex of “Celulosa Argentina”, a large paper-manufacturing plant located directly on the Río Alto Paraná.

• •

E Eating out

• • •

A Festivals •

Fiesta Nacional de la Orquídea (National Orchid Festival): October held in Parque Juan Vortisch Festivals in Puerto Piray • Fiesta Provincial del Papel (Provincial Paper Festival): October

•

B Tourist information

•

•

•

•

C Accommodation in Montecarlo Hostería Helvecia, Libertador 2882

Parrilla Mateo’s, RN 12 Parrilla Baldo, RN 12 Restaurant Las Palmeras, RN 12 near Rotonda $Z. Pastas Cafetería Montecarlo, Avenida El Libertador near General Paz. Fast food Cafetería Las Palmeras, Avenida El Libertador near Dr. Walter. Fast food

I Post and telegraph

Dirección Municipal de Cultura y Turismo, Avenida El Libertador 1162 @ 480200

*

Camping Municipal Montecarlo, in the grounds of the Club de Pesca Montecarlo Camping Club de Pesca, At the end of Avenida del Libertador. Fishing trips and to Isla Caraguatay $4.00 per person. Restaurant $Z

Post office: Correo Argentino, Libertador near Andresito Telephone: Telecom Argentina, Comandante Andresito 91

AEFGHPRTY

@

480028

$H

2

@ @

480076 481104

$H $H $H

2 2 2

@

481107

$I

2

Residenciales

A Kaikén, Avenida Libertador 1911 LP B Ideal, Poll • Las Colinas, B. Rotonda near RN 12

Accommodation on RN 12 • Residencial Ruta 12

999

Montecarlo

MESOPOTAMIA L Financial •

a Sport

•

Banco de Misiones, Avenida del Libertador near Facundo Quiroga

Fishing for dorado and surubí from the nearby Isla Caraguatay

Sporting associations • Club Argentino Germano de Gimnasia y Cultura (gym), H. Yrigoyen 55 • Club de Pesca y Náutica Montecarlo (Fishing and Boating Club), Avenida del Libertador on Río Paraná

S Buses Bus companies • Empresa Kruse, Lavalle 36 @ 480103; services to Puerto Piray, Eldorado, Bernardo de Irigoyen, Posadas, and Puerto Iguazú Services • Posadas (31 2 hrs); 30 daily; Singer, Kruse • Oberá; 1 daily; Singer • Puerto Iguazú (3 hrs); 26 daily • Bernardo de Irigoyen; 3 daily; Empresa Kruse, Oro Verde, A. Del Valle

p Sightseeing

• •

U Motoring

Orquideario Santa Rosa, RN 12, 1 km from Rotonda to town entrance. Open 08:00–20:00 Museo Histórico–Arqueológico y Biblioteca (History and Archeology Museum and Library), Mariano Moreno 66. Open Mon–Fri 07:00–12:00 and 14:00–16:00

s Excursions

Service stations • Y.P.F., Avenida del Libertador 1966 • Shell, Avenida del Libertador 3490

•

# Water transport

Launch services to Apayme in Paraguay operate only at the request of tourists.

•

Isla Caraguatay: A nearby national fishing reserve on the Río Alto Paraná at a spot where the river forms rapids. The island is covered with dense vegetation with paths leading to the top of the island Zoo Bal Park, a local fauna wild life park

OBERÁ

Oberá Population: 45 000 Postal code: 3360 @ area code: (03755) Altitude: 345 m Distances • From Posadas: 95 km east on RN 12 then RN 103 • From Alba Posse on the Río Uruguay: 61 km west on RN 103

O

berá, founded in 1928, is located in the southern highlands of the Sierra de Misiones. Temperatures average 20°C (70°F), and annual rainfall is about 1700 mm. It has a very active chamber of commerce and a college of electrical engineering. It is a center of tea, yerba maté, cotton, and tung production and of the local logging industry. It is the starting point for the scenic drive north along the RN 14 and to the small towns of Panambí and Alba Posse on the Río Uruguay, rarely visited by tourists.

Oberá

1000

MISIONES OBERÁ

B. MITRE

FRENCH

1 2

BERUT TI

EL MENSU

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6

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9 DE JULIO

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8

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E To Posadas

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Plaza San Martín CERVANTES

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SAN MARTÍN

ENTRE RÍOS

S E N IO IS E

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D 15

16

Key to map A C D E I P $ T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Centro de Información Turística A.C.A. Banco de Misiones Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 2

Residencial Seewald

3 4 7 8 10 11

Residencial Internacional Residencial Real Residencial Anahí Hotel Premier Hotel Cuatro Pinos Hotel Vito I

4 Eating out 1 5 9

Restaurant Oberá Tenis Club Restaurant Club Social Restaurant Nápoli

1001

12 Restaurant HI Hamburguer 13 Restaurant JC 14 Restaurant Los Primos 15 Restaurant Karbe

7 Tour operators 16 Singer Tur S.A.

9 Sights 6

Museo de Ciencias Naturales de Oberá

Oberá

MESOPOTAMIA •

A Festivals •

San Antonio, the town’s patron saint: June 13 • Feria Guazú: A fair held in October in even-numbered years, to strengthen the sense of a common heritage shared by the countries bordering the Río de la Plata basin — Brazil, Uruguay, Paraguay, and Argentina • Fiesta Nacional del Inmigrante (National Immigrants’ Festival) and Fiesta Provincial de Artesanías (Provincial Crafts Festival): September. Misiones as a whole and the Oberá district in particular are a melting pot of many nations: grafted onto the local Guaraní population came Germans, Brazilians, Japanese, Italians, Spaniards, Poles, Ukrainians (particularly after the last war), Swiss, and Scandinavians. The impact of these hard-working immigrants can be seen everywhere: attractive cities, good roads, and a flourishing agriculture. Most festivities are held in the Parque de las Naciones Festivals held in Campo Viera RN 14 23 km north • Fiesta Nacional del Té, second half in February

E Eating out & & &

& &

Restaurants • Alf, Corrientes 435 • Club Social, Avenida Sarmiento 960 • Da-pa-si, Sarmiento 1400. Parrilla and pizzas • El Lapacho, Avenida Sarmiento 1230 near 12 de Octubre. Menú turístico • Engüete, Alvear Núñez de Vaca 340 • HI Hamburguer, Libertad 70 • Imperial, Avenida Sarmiento 1400. Pizzería • JC, Entre Ríos 102 near 9 de Julio. Pizzería • Karbe, San Martín 945 • Los Primos, Libertad 140 • Nápoli, Sarmiento 857 near Corrientes • New Vinicius, Sarmiento near Salta • Oberá Tenis Club, San Luis 378 Cafeterías • Alemana, Salta 70 Galería Lineo. Serves good “Kuchen” (German cakes) • Sweet, Avenida Sarmiento

n Entertainment

•

B Tourist information •

Casa de la Cultura, Buenos Aires near 9 de Julio

•

Centro de Información Turística, Avenida Libertad 90 near Sarmiento, on Plazoleta Güemes @ 421808, fax 421113. Open daily 07:00–19:00

Disco La Bailanta Tropical, Andresito opposite Parque Las Naciones Disco Nuevo Saucer, Córdoba 94. Bar

I Post and telegraph

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Santa Fe near San Martín

C Accommodation in Oberá Hotels **** *** * *

Cabañas del Parque, Ucrania near Tronador E-mail: [email protected] ABCDEFKLPRST Premier, 9 de Julio 1164 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Cuatro Pinos, Avenida Sarmiento 853 AELPV Vito I, Corrientes 56 AELPV

Residenciales B B B B

Anahí, Santiago del Estero 36 AEHP Internacional, Avenida J Ingenieros 121 L Real, Gobernador Barreyro 816 L Seewald, Chaco 300 L

@ @ @ @

425295 421214 425102 421892

$E/F $F/G $G $H

2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @

421127 421796 422761 421602

$H $I $I $H

2 2 2 2

@

422829

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2

Accommodation in Villa Svea *

Oberá

Hotel Chiquita, Avenida de los Inmigrantes 2500 Fax 421340 ABCEHKPRSY

1002

MISIONES S Buses from Oberá

The bus terminal is on Avenida J Ingenieros block 0 near G Barreyo. Bus companies • Metrobus Klein @ 423581 • Vía Bariloche, Ave. Sarmiento 683 @ 422024 Long-distance services

•

• • • • • • •

Destination Fare Alba Posse Apóstoles Buenos Aires El Dorado $13.50 Leandro N. Alem Panambí $2.50 Posadas

Services 5 daily 3 daily 1 daily 2 daily 3 daily 1 daily 12 daily

• •

Puerto Iguazú San Javier

5 daily

$3.00

Duration Company Expreso Singer 2 hrs Crucero del Norte, Expreso Singer 171 2 hrs Crucero del Norte, Expreso Singer 4 hrs Expreso Singer 1 hr Crucero del Norte, Expreso Singer 2 1 hour Empresa Réal 2 hrs Don Tito, El Canario, Expreso Singer 5 hrs Expreso Singer 3 hrs Expreso Águila Dorada

p Sightseeing

Telephone: Telecom, Jujuy block 0 near Avenida Sarmiento

•

L Financial •

Banco de Misiones, Avenida Sarmiento 878

M Services and facilities • •

s Excursions

Dry-cleaner: Tokio, Sarmiento near San Luis Supermarket: Kraus, 9 de Julio block 1100

Tour operators • Singer Tur S.A., Entre Ríos 305 @ 421058/59/60 Excursions • General Alvear: 10 km north. In the Reserva Natural Paraje Los Indios is a camping area. The area has small rivers with cascades. Salto Tobogán and Salto Dos Hermanos can be reached on forest paths and over small bridges, a short walk from the camping area. Five km further from General Alvear is Colonia Alberdi also with a camping area. Nearby is El Chapá, an indigenous community where you can buy handicrafts • Salto Berrondo: 10 km on RN 105. A small tourist complex with barbecue facilities and tables; open all year • Salto Paca: About an hour’s drive on the road to Panambí. The waterfall is about 3 km downhill on a dirt road. When you arrive at the falls take the little path to the left. You do not have to walk far down to get a good view of the waterfall which, although not

O Churches • •

Lutheran: Iglesia Evangelica Luterana Unida, Barreyro 947 Latter-Day Saints: Iglesia de Jesús Cristo de los Santos de los Últimos Días, Santiago del Estero 355

U Motoring Service stations The road from Oberá to Alba Posse is completely paved. • A.C.A., Avenida Sarmiento 980 near San Luis • Y.P.F., Avenida A.C.A. 2147 • Esso, Sarmiento block 1200 near Tierra del Fuego

Y Shopping •

Museo de Ciencias Naturales de Oberá (Oberá Natural Science Museum), Gobernador Barreyro near José Ingenieros. Open Tues–Fri 08:00–12:00 and 16:00–18:00. Sat 06:00–12:00

Mercado de Artesanías, Parque de las Naciones

1003

Oberá

MESOPOTAMIA

•

•

very wide, has a free fall of about 40–50 m. The area is still covered with its original subtropical forest, but heavy logging continues. The return uphill to the bus takes about 45 minutes. Empresa Réal runs frequent buses (fare $1.50); ask the driver to let you off. This would be a half-day excursion. If you choose to continue to Panambí on the Río Uruguaythere are daily buses. In Panambí there are ferry services to Brazil: Mon–Fri 08:15–11:30 and 14:00–17:30; Sat 09:00–15:00 Alba Posse and Santa Rita: The road from Oberá to the Río Uruguay is now paved. The ever-decreasing rainforest alternates with tea and yerba maté plantations and pine forests. Towards the end of the trip there are scenic views over the Río Uruguay Leandro N Alem and San Javier on the Río Uruguay: There are frequent bus services to Leandro N Alem;

•

change there for the bus to San Javier. See Leandro N Alem on page 998 and San Javier on page 1025 Aristóbulo del Valle and back to Eldorado on the Río Alto Paraná: This inland trip north is possible using public transport. The road runs through undulating country along the top of the Sierra de Misiones through tea and yerba maté and tung plantations. Isolated palm trees in the fields bear witness that not so long ago this was densely covered with subtropical rainforest. The RN 14 is sealed and in very good condition as far as San Pedro. It passes through pine tree plantations and occasional patches of original forest. Campo Viera is a center of tea production and of timber milling. See Aristóbulo del Valle on page 991 and Eldorado on page 994

POSADAS

Posadas Population: 225 000 Postal code: 3300 @ area code: (03752) Altitude: 82 m Distances • From Asunción (Paraguay): 367 km south • From Buenos Aires: 1064 km north on RN 14 • From Porto Alegre (Brazil): 736 km • From Puerto Iguazú: 304 km south on RN 12

P

osadas is located on a bluff on the Río Paraná, across the river from the Paraguayan town of Encarnación. It was officially founded in 1870, although the Jesuits, led by Padre Roque González de Santa Cruz, had already established an Indian reducción in 1615. The Jesuit mission flourished from 1648 until 1767, when the Jesuits were expelled from all Spanish territories. The main commercial center is on Bolívar between Azara and Junín. The oldest part of town is near the harbor, and is known as La Bajada Vieja (The Old Descent); there are some quaint old houses here worth seeing. More and more tourists are

Posadas

coming to Posadas each year, and information services are good. A 2 km bridge links Posadas with Encarnación in Paraguay. During the summer months it can get very hot and humid, but winter is pleasant.

1004

MISIONES Some years ago the house numbering system in the center of Posadas was changed. Numbers run in the opposite direction to the previous numbers. However, the old numbers are still displayed on

houses and are used officially; some street signs are missing. As a result it is not always clear whether old or new numbers are being referred to, so you need to check addresses carefully. In the addresses given in this

C Accommodation in Posadas Hotels **** *** *** *** ** ** * * *

Julio César, Entre Ríos 1951 ACDEFGHJKLMRS$TUXY Fax 420599 @ 427930 Continental, Bolívar 1879 (314) ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 435302 @ 440990 Libertador, San Lorenzo 2208 near Catamarca ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 439448 @ 436901 Posadas, Bolívar 1949 (272) ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 430924 @ 440888 Canciller, Junín block 1700 (258) AEFGJKLPUV Fax 430401 @ 440599 Parque Palace, Roque González 1030 AEFGJLPUV @ 432530 City Hotel, Colón 1764 (280), opposite Plaza 9 de Julio AEFLPTVY @ 432400 de Turismo, Bolívar block 2200 (171) AELPSV @ 436501 Gran Hotel Misiones, Barrufaldi 2084 AELPV Near bus terminal @ 422777

Residenciales

A El Colonial, Barrufaldi 2419 LP A Horianski, Líbano 2655 (725) LP Shared bathroom cheaper; near bus terminal A Le Petit Hotel, Santiago del Estero 1630 (435) HLPSY B Carioca, Avenida Mitre 58 L B Colón, Colón 2169 (485) L B Córdoba, Santiago del Estero 2162 KL B Marlis, Avenida Corrientes 1670 (234) B Neumann, R.S.Peña 665 LP C Entrerriano, General Madariaga near López C Misiones, Félix de Azara 1969 C Nagel, P Méndez 2148 near bus terminal

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436031 424113 425085 435451 425764 424675 431539 422561 425656

$G $G $G $G $H $H $I $H $H

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

Accommodation near Parque Paraguayo

• Albergue Municipal, in the ground floor of Anfiteatro Manuel Antonio Ramírez, Alberdi @ 423700 $J 1

Accommodation on Avenida Urquiza • Cabañas La Aventura, Zapiola

@

460951

$F

4

Accommodation road to airport

• Hotel Ana Capri, Ave. República del Uruguay 6057 near junction with Ave. Tierra del Fuego AEFLY @ 453974

Accommodation in Candelaria • Hostería San Bernardo,

@

1005

493399

Posadas

MESOPOTAMIA book, the old house numbers when known are given in parentheses; for example “San Martín 1788 (361)” means that the new number of the building in San Martín is 1788, but the old number 361 may still be displayed; the address of Museo de Ciencias e Historia is given in recent publications as San Luis 384; in fact it is located in San Luis block 1900 between Córdoba and La Rioja. The founding of Posadas goes back to 1615 when Padre Roque González de Santa Cruz came to convert the local Indians to Christianity. A few years later this fledgling town was transferred on the other side of the Río Paraná thus founding the town of Encarnación now in Paraguay. A few settlers remained but after 1767 the small settlement disappeared. In 1833 it appears again as a settlement when President Francia of Paraguay built a defensive wall around the renascent small settlement. In 1876 the cathedral was consecrated.

day trip can be made with local buses (see page 1013).

A Festivals

• •

B Tourist information

•

•

1 4 42 44 46 47 48 50 51 52

Albergue Municipal Hotel Parque Palace Residencial Colón Hotel Libertador Residencial Le Petit Hotel Residencial Córdoba Residencial Neumann Residencial Horianski Hotel Gran Hotel Misiones Residencial El Colonial

Posadas

Camping Municipal, on the Río Paraná. From the city center take buses 1, 4, or 11; from the bus terminal take bus 7

E Eating out Restaurants • Restaurant Club Tokio, Belgrano 339. Cheap meals • Continental, Bolívar 314, 1st floor • De Diego, San Lorenzo 603. International cuisine • Restaurant El Tropezón, San Martín 2130 (185). Pasta and seafood • La Querencia, Córdoba 269, next to A.C.A.. Parrilla • La Rural, Ayacucho block 1400 (115) corner of Belgrano. International cuisine • La Ventana, Bolívar 1725. International cuisine

Candelaría is a small town 20 km east of Posadas on RN 12. Its origins go back to a Jesuit Mission established in 1655. Of the original mission buildings only a few walls are left. This was apparently the head quarters of the Jesuit order. This half

3 Accommodation

Secretaría de Turismo de la Provincia de Misiones, Colón 1985 (383) @ 447542/447539; fax 440800; toll-free call within Misiones: 0800-50296 Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Bolívar near Colón on Plaza 9 de Julio

D Camping

•

Candelaría

Key to map

Fiesta Provincial del Durazno (Provincial Apricot Festival): August Fiesta Nacional de la Música del Litoral (National Festival of the Coast Music): Held in the Anfiteatro Municipal during December

53 Residencial Nagel

4 Eating out 8 9 10 14 45 49

Tennis Club Itapua Restaurant Mateos Sociedad Italiana Club Náutico Pizzería San Carlos Hamburguesería Chef-Burg

1006

7 Car rental 40 Localiza

9 Sights 2 6

Museo Aníbal Cambas Ruins of Jesuit Mission

0 Services 5

Launch services to Encarnación 7 Dry-cleaner Colón 43 Disused railroad station

MISIONES To Balneario 1 AVE. SARGENTO CABRAL

P A

Parque Repúblic a de Paraguay

R

A

HERNÁNDEZ

TI

AY

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CORONEL ALVAREZ

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D BOLÍVAR

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Refer to map “Centro”

ENTRE RÍOS

42

40

43 44

CORONEL LÓPEZ

48

J. LANUS SE

GENERAL PAZ

25 DE MAYO

3 DE FEBRERO

RIVADAVIA

53

POSADAS

AVE. G. MARCONI

51

AVE. A ..L . TORRES

50

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To

BUENOS AIRES

52

MÉNDEZ

46

H. QUIROGA

AVE. RADEMACHER

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49

AVE. REP. DEL URUGUAY

JUNÍN

AVE. DE HARO

T

47

45

COLÓN

AYACUCHO

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO

AVE. B. MITRE

SAN LORENZO

SAN LUIS

JUJUY

AVE. CORRIENTES

TUCUMÁN

AVE. ROQUE SÁENZ PEÑA

SALTA

To Encarnación(Paraguay)

CATAMARCA

To Puerto Iguazú

1007

Posadas

MESOPOTAMIA POSADAS CENTRO

Key to map

SANTA FE

A B C D E I

E

12 13

SARMIENTO 18 19

16 17

15

A

20

SAN MARTÍN Plaza 9 de Julio BOLÍVAR 30 31 32

24

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D

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26 27 28

37

COLÓN

20 21 24 27 30 37 41

BUENOS AIRES

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LA RIOJA

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SAN LORENZO

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Plaza San Martín

3 Accommodation

29 CÓRDOBA 36

P

38

P $ T

ENTRE RÍOS 41

17 18 23 28 31 32

Llao Llao, Avenida Corrientes 1888. Parrilla • Lo de Carmelo, Sarmiento 1729. International cuisine • Nueva China, Bolívar 1821. Chinese cuisine Cafeterías • A.C.A., Córdoba 1946 near Colón. Serves early breakfast • Español, Bolívar 2080 • Bahía, Bolívar 298 block 1900 near Colón • Glass, Colón and Bolívar. Hamburgers • Le Petit Café, Bolívar 1921 Pizzerías and fast food • Pizzería San Carlos, Colón 2422 • Hamburguesería Chef-burg, Ave. Mitre 2222 Eating out on RN 12 • Restaurant La Rueda, near Rotonda. Parrilla

22 Austral Líneas Aéreas 38 LAPA

7 Car rental

15 A1 Rent a Car 36 Dollar Rent a Car

9 Sights

33 Museo de Arte Municipal 34 Museo Arqueológico “Andrés Guacarí” 35 Museo de Ciencias Naturales e Histórico

0 Services 12 13 16 19 25 26 29 39

Casino Provincial, San Martín block 1900 near San Lorenzo Disco Power, Bolívar near 25 de Mayo

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Bolívar 193 block 2200 near Ayacucho Telephones: Telecom, Colón 1515 near Santa Fe

Posadas

Paraguayan consulate Artesanías El Paye Dry-cleaner Executive La Burbuja Cambios Mazza Turismo Laboratorios Rolando Cambios Iberá Dry-cleaner Tokyo

L Financial

• •

I Post and telegraph •

Restaurant El Tropezón Restaurant Lo de Carmelo Cafetería Español Cafetería Le Petit Café Restaurant Nueva China Restaurant La Ventana

6 Airline offices

n Entertainment •

Hotel Canciller Hotel de Turismo Hotel City Hotel Hotel Posadas Hotel Continental Residencial Misiones Hotel Julio César

4 Eating out

•

•

Iglesia Gobernación Provincial (Government) Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Secretaría de Turismo de la Provincia de Misiones A.C.A. Money exchange Long-distance bus terminal

Cambio Iberá, Colón 1865 Cambios Mazza Turismo, Bolívar 1932 near San Lorenzo. Cash and travelers’ checks

M Services and facilities

•

1008

Pharmacy: Farmacia Bolívar, Bolívar block 1600 (442)

MISIONES Dry cleaners • Colón, Colón 1254 • Executive, Junín 1637 (221) near Sarmiento • Tokyo, Entre Ríos 2373

aguay. The passport checkpoint is on the access road to the bridge on either side.

R Air services

General San Martín airport is 12 km south of the city center, on RN 12. Tucán Turismo operates a bus to the airport for $3.00. Airlines • Austral Líneas Aéreas, Ayacucho 1728 (264) near San Martín @ 432889 • Líneas Aéreas Privadas Argentinas, Junín 2054 @ 440300

Photographic supplies • Fotovision, Bolívar block 2200 (212) near San Luis. A good selection of films and photographic equipment • Laboratorios Rolando, Bolívar 2121 Laundromats • La Burbuja, Buenos Aires 1654 (228). Open daily 08:00–20:00 • Laverap, Ayacucho block 1400 near Santa Fe. Open Mon–Sat 08:00–20:00 • Marval, Salta block 2100 (old number 180) near Ayacucho Sport articles • Náutico Leo, Belgrano 125

Services • Buenos Aires (Aeroparque Jorge Newbery): ($90/150.00; 11 2 hrs); 2–4 daily, Austral, LAPA

U Motoring Service stations • A.C.A., Córdoba 1946 near Colón @ 423456. Cafeteria, maps and travel information are available Car rental Car hire costs $100.00 a day with 200 km free and $0.46 per additional kilometre. • A1 Rent a Car, Junín 1696 @ 432245 • Localiza, San Lorenzo 2125 Local 1 @ 430901 • Dollar Rent a Car, Colón 1909 @ 435484 fax

N Clubs • • • • • •

British: Instituto Británico, Córdoba block 2200 (130). Translation service French: Alliance Française, Rivadavia 136 @ 423519 German: Asociación Alemána, Avenida Corrientes 666 @ 424187 Italian: Sociedad Italiana, Santa Fe 2470 Spanish: Asociación Española, Córdoba block 1600 (328) Tango dancing: Asociación de Amigo del Tango, General Paz block 1600 (214) near Sarmiento. Evening classes

# Water transport

Despite the new bridge link there are still launch services to Encarnación in Paraguay. Departure times are: Mon–Fri, every half hour from 07:00–18:00; 6 services on Sat, and 4 services on Sun. More services are run if there is the demand. Fares are $1.00 on weekdays and $2.00 on weekends.

O Churches • •

Latter Day Saints Church, R S Peña block 1900 near Córdoba Lutheran Evangelical Church, Entre Ríos block 2200 (130). Services are held on Sundays at 09:00

P Visas, passports •

• •

Y Shopping

Brazilian consulate, Avenida Corrientes 108 (1464) @ 424830 Paraguayan consulate, San Lorenzo block 1500 (179) @ 423858. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–12:00 Spanish consulate, Córdoba 328 @ 426086

Misiones is an important source of gems; topaz and amethysts in particular are found in riverbeds throughout the province. Two types of precious stones are found in this region: those which have solidified slowly and have, in the process, formed crystalized hollows inside the stone as a result of intrusions of silica, and those which have solidified suddenly and formed full, solid stones. The color of the gems depends on the chemi-

Q Border crossing

There is a bridge across the Río Paraná linking Posadas with Encarnación in Par-

1009

Posadas

MESOPOTAMIA S Buses from Posadas

The central municipal bus terminal is on the corner of Sarmiento and Félix de Azara. Twelve bus routes around the city begin here. The long-distance bus terminal is on Avenida Mitre 2447 near Avenida Uruguay, @ 425800/423703. It incorporates Restaurant La Terminal. Local bus services • Empresa Candelaria @ 427653 ° Corpus (2 hrs); 1 daily except Sun • Central Argentino @ 428168 ° Puerto Iguazú ($24.00; 7 hrs); 1 daily ° San Pedro (8 hrs); 1 daily • Chito @ 425800 ° Aristóbulo del Valle via Santa Ana, San Ignacio ($3.50), Gobernador Roca, Santo Pipo, and Jardín América; 1 daily • Cóndor @ 427653 ° Apóstoles (21 2 hrs); 2 daily • Don Tito @ 427653 ° San Vicente (4 hrs) via Oberá; 1 daily • El Canario ° Oberá (2 hrs); 1 daily ° Puerto Iguazú ($24.00; 5 hrs) via Eldorado (2 hrs); 1 daily • Empresa El Dorado @ 433848 ° Puerto Iguazú ($24.00; 6 hrs) via San Ignacio ($3.50; 1 hour), Jardín América, Puerto Rico (23 4 hrs), Montecarlo, Eldorado (33 4 hrs), Puerto Esperanza, and Wanda; 3 daily ° San Pedro (6 hrs); 1 daily • Empresa Tigre Iguazú @ 428811 ° Puerto Iguazú ($24.00; 51 4 hrs) via) San Ignacio ($3.50; 1 hour), Jardín América, Puerto Rico (23 4 hrs), Montecarlo, Eldorado (33 4 hrs), Puerto Esperanza, and Wanda; 3 daily • Expreso Aguila Dorada @ 425800 ° Paso de la Barca (41 2 hrs) via Leandro N. Alem (2 hrs) and San Javier; 5 daily • Expreso Aristóbulo del Valle @ 454883 • Expreso Río Uruguay @ 455833 ° Apóstoles • H. Klein @ 425800 ° El Soberbio (4 hrs) via San Ignacio ($3.50; 1 hour); 1 daily • Iguazú @ 428168 ° Puerto Iguazú ($24.00; 6 hrs) via San Ignacio ($3.50; 1 hour), Jardín América, Puerto Rico (23 4 hrs), Montecarlo, Eldorado (33 4 hrs), Puerto Esperanza, and Wanda; 4 daily • Nuestra Señora Del Rosario ° El Soberbio (51 2 hrs); 1 daily ° Bernardo de Irigoyen (6 hrs); 1 daily ° San Javier (41 4 hrs); 2 daily • O. Klein ° San Pedro (6 hrs); 1 daily • Oro Verde, local 41 @ 452792 ° Aristóbulo del Valle (3 hrs) via Campo Viera and Campo Grande; 2 daily ° Bernardo de Irigoyen (6 hrs); 1 daily ° Aristóbulo del Valle (3 hrs) via Jardín América; 1 daily • Warenicia @ 423703 ° Apóstoles (11 2 hrs); 4 daily

Posadas

1010

MISIONES Buses from Posadas — continued Long-distance companies • A37 Ciudad de Posadas @ 455400 • A47 COTAL @ 433645/427208 ° Puerto Iguazú ($24.00; 6 hrs) via San Ignacio ($3.50; 1 hour), Jardín América, Puerto Rico (23 4 hrs), Montecarlo, Eldorado (4 hrs), Puerto Esperanza, and Wanda; 1 daily • A60 El Litoral • A61 El Norte Bis • A79 El Zonda • A97 Empresa Itatí • A100 Kurtz @ 424404/6 ° Puerto Iguazú ($24.00; 51 2 hrs) via Eldorado (33 4 hrs), Puerto Esperanza and Wanda; 2 daily • A103 Empresa Martín ° Eldorado via San Ignacio ($3.50; 1 hour), Jardín América, Puerto Rico (23 4 hrs), and Montecarlo; 1 daily • A113 Empresa Tigre Iguazú • A130 Expreso Río Paraná @ 455444 • A132 Expreso Singer @ 424771 ° PuertoIguazú ($24.00;5 ½ hrs); 2 daily ° Oberá; 8 daily ° Leandro N Alem (2 hrs); 4 daily • A135 Expreso Via Bariloche @ 434737 • A142 Horianski @ 427653 ° Puerto Iguazú ($24.00; 6 hrs) via San Ignacio ($3.50; 1 hour), Jardín América, Puerto Rico (23 4 hrs), Montecarlo, Eldorado (33 4 hrs), Puerto Esperanza, and Wanda; 1 daily ° Aristóbulo del Valle; 1 daily except Sun ° San Javier; 1 daily • A165 La Estrella • A177 Martignoni @ 428168 ° Puerto Iguazú (61 4 hrs) via San Ignacio ($3.50; 1 hour), Jardín América, Puerto Rico (23 4 hrs), Montecarlo, Eldorado ($20.00; 33 4 hrs), Puerto Esperanza, and Wanda; 2 daily • A187 Nuestra Señora de la Asunción • A273 El Crucero del Norte @ 423703/455533 ° Apóstoles (11 2 hrs); 6 daily • A276 El Cometa • A277 Nueva Estrella Long-distance services Services

•

Destination Fare Asunción (Paraguay) $11.00 Buenos Aires $40.00

• • • • • •

Catamarca Colón Concordia Córdoba Corrientes Ituzaingó

3 weekly 3 daily 2 daily 1 daily 12 daily 3 daily

•

Posadas

$58.00 $33.00 $45.00 $21.00 $4.80

2 daily 1 daily

Duration

Company

51 2 hrs A132, A187 133 4 hrs A37, A100, A113, A130, A132, A135, A142, A273, A277 22 hrs A47 A132 9 hrs A132 17 hrs A60, A132, A273 4–5 hrs A37, A79, A100, A177, A276 21 4 hrs A37

1011

MESOPOTAMIA Buses from Posadas — continued • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

La Plata La Rioja Mendoza $92.40 Paraná Paso de los Libres Porto Alegre (Brasil) $37.40 Resistencia $22.00 Rosario $53.20 Salta San Juan Santa Fe $38.00 Santiago del Estero $50.60 Santo Tomé Tucumán $53.90 Yapeyú

3 daily 1 daily 3 weekly 5 daily 3–4 daily 3 weekly 10 daily 10 daily 3 weekly 6 daily 6 daily 5 daily 3 daily 2 daily

16 hrs A113, A130, A132, A273 A47 341 2 hrs A47 111 2 hrs A60, A113, A132, A273 6 hrs A100, A132, A273 12 hrs A132 61 4 hrs A37, A61, A100, A165, A177, A276 16 hrs A37, A61, A100, A113, A142 A37, A100, A177 A47 14 hrs A37, A60, A100, A113, A132, A273 181 2 hrs A47, A103, A165, A277 3 hrs A132 181 2 hrs A97, A165, A277 A273

cal composition of the rock. The major area where gems are found are in the north of the province near Wanda; agates are found near the Brazilian border. In the commercial gem fields it takes 10 tonnes of rock to yield 1 kg of precious stones. Misiones is only part of a large region in which gems are found; the entire area includes southern Brazil, part of Paraguay, northern Uruguay, and Isla Garcia in the Paraná–Río de La Plata estuary. • Artesanías El Paye, Colón 1574 (190). Leather goods, wood carvings, and ceramics • Mercado Artesanal, Sarmiento 309. Craft market • Precious Stones, Rioja near Ayacucho

•

•

a Sport •

• •

Golf: Club Social Tacuru, on RN 12, before the police checkpoint on the way to Cataratas. This is an 18-hole course; it is also the best social club in town. Facilities include a swimming pool, tennis courts, and a restaurant; @ 437524 Squash Club, Fleming 535 Tennis Club Itapua, Avenida Corrientes 1339

•

p Sightseeing •

Parque República de Paraguay, corner of Alberdi and Cabral. To get to the park from the center of the city take a number 4 bus. The park offers a

Posadas

1012

good view over the Río Paraná which will be a lake when the new dam at Ituzaingó is completed In the median strip of Avenida Comandante Andresito Guacurari, just before it begins its descent to the harbour, between Calle Buenos Aires and Rivadavia, you can see the ruins of the Jesuit mission. All that is left now are a few foundation stones and some pillars Museo de Ciencias Naturales e Histórico (Natural Sciences and History Museum), San Luis block 1900. Interesting serpentarium and aviary. Also a section on the Jesuit missions. This is also a scientific research establishment. It should be noted here that because of the particularly favorable climate and natural environment there are over 500 bird species, over 100 native mammals, and 80 native reptile species. Open Mon–Fri 07:00–12:00 and 14:00–19:00. Sat, Sun 09:00–12:00. Small admission fee Museo Aníbal Cambas (Aníbal Cambas Museum), Alberdi 605, Parque República de Paraguay. This museum consists of only one room but is good nonetheless. It is a mixed collection and includes Guaraní artefacts such as canoes hewn from tree trunks, relics from the time of the Jesuits, and examples of local flora and fauna. There is also an interesting collection of butterflies and beetles,

MISIONES •

•

•

and stuffed tropical birds and jaguars. There is a small admission fee Museo Arqueológico e Histórico “Andrés Guacurarí” (Andres Guacurari Archeological and Historical Museum), General Paz 1865. Andrés Guacurarí was born in 1775 in San Borja now Brazil. He became a native Catholic missionary and later governor of Misiones. The museum incorporates the items collected by Michael A. Nadasdy in and around San Ignacio. The Jesuit–Guaraní room has a catechism in the Guaraní language translated by Nicolás Yapaguay in 1724. There are also items from the neolithic period and pictures from the more recent European settlement of the province. Another room you find pictures and statues made by Guaranis in various Jesuit missions. Open Tues–Sun 08:00–12:00 and 14:00–19:00 Museo de Bellas Artes Juan Yaparí (Juan Yaparí Fine Art Museum), Sarmiento block 1800 (319). Open Mon–Fri 07:00–19:00; Sat and Sun 09:00–12:00 and 17:00–20:00 Museo de Arte Municipal (Municipal Arts Museum), Rivadavia 1846. Permanent exhibition of paintings and art objects. Open Mon–Fri 07:00–12:30 and 14:00–20:00; Sat and Sun 09:00–12:00 and 16:00–21:00

•

•

•

s Excursions Tour operators • Abra Tours, Entre Ríos 309 @ 422221 fax 423282 • Horianski Turismo S.R.L., 25 de Mayo 259 @ 427778 • Turismo Panambí, Avenida Rademacher 5663 @ 452414

•

Excursions • Garupá: 14 km west, on the Río Garupá. You can camp and swim at this pleasant, quiet spot. Access by public bus • Candelaría: 19 km on RN 12. This little village was the first capital of Misiones province. It is 1 km off the

•

1013

highway and not all buses from Posadas pass through. There are panoramic views of the surrounding area from here. Coming from the highway, the Jesuit ruins are just outside the town. Estancia Santa Cecilia has creative and educational activities on its property. Reservations: (03743) 424049/427877 Santa Ana: 40 km on RN 12. The Jesuit ruins are 2 km up from the main road (not down towards the Río Paraná!). You can camp here and there are municipal baths. The ruins themselves are overgrown and have not been restored Loreto: 46 km on RN 12. On the right is a turnoff which leads to the Jesuit ruins. It is a 3 km walk, and the ruins have not been restored. Here was the Jesuit printery where the first Argentine books from 1700 onwards were printed. Can be combined with excursion to San Ignacio Miní San Ignacio Miní: 61 km on RN 12. The Jesuit ruins of San Ignacio Miní are the most accessible of those which have been restored. They convey a vivid picture of Jesuit culture in the sixteenth century. Here also are the steps of the Peñón del Teyú Cuaré which lead down the 150 m to the Río Alto Paraná. Accommodation is available but usually booked out; There are municipal baths here as well. Half-day excursion by public bus which runs every half hour to and from Posadas. See also San Ignacio on page 1023 Complejo Hidroeléctrico Yacyretá Apipé, in Corrientes province. See Ituzaingó on page 916. Full-day excursion by public bus. Also as a conducted tour with a tour operator; $5.00 Saltos del Moconá. Tour operators organise 2-day tours to those magnificent waterfalls — almost as spectacular as the Iguazú falls but not yet overrun by mass tourism. This is an adventure tour; accommodation in tents

Posadas

MESOPOTAMIA

PUERTO ESPERANZA

Puerto Esperanza Postal code: 3378 @ area code: (03757) Distance from Puerto Iguazú: 52 km south on RN 12

A

lthough called “Puerto”, Puerto Esperanza is not a port on the Río Alto Paraná, but 9 km east of the river. It is a convenient stopover en route from Posadas to Puerto Iguazú.

E Eating out

Wanda Wanda is a center for the mining of amethysts and other precious stones, located 6 km north. There are regular local buses. There are also eating places and a small residencial not far from the mining site.

Eating out in Wanda • Restaurant El Aljibe, RP 9 • Restaurant El Buen Gusto, Plaza Central

I Post and telegraph Post and telegraph in Wanda • Post office: Correo Argentino, San Martín • Telephone: Telecom Argentina, San Martín

C Accommodation

Hotel Las Brisas, RN 12 and the access road to Río Alto Paraná AELPSV @ 480240 $G 2 B Residencial Hermes, Salta 95 L @ 480173 $H 2 B Residencial Tropical, Córdoba near Formosa L @ 480152/80565 $I 1 B Residencial El Pinar, Avenida San Martín Accommodation in Wanda B Residencial El Paraíso, RN 12 FL @ 470262 *

S Buses

Buses run regularly to Puerto Iguazú.

U Motoring

•

Service station: Shell, 20 de Junio

s Excursions

•

Wanda: 6 km north. See also Excursions from Puerto Iguazú on page 1021

PUERTO IGUAZÚ

Puerto Iguazú Population: 30 000 Postal code: 3370 @ area code: (03757) Altitude: 160 m Distances • From Posadas: 316 km north-east on RN 12 • From Foz do Iguaçu in Brazil: 25 km south-west • From Ciudad del Este in Paraguay: 31 km south, via Foz do Iguaçu

P

uerto Iguazú is almost equidistant from Buenos Aires and Río de Janeiro in Brazil, in the northernmost corner of Argentina, on the border of Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay. Here is situated one of South America’s most popular

Puerto Esperanza

1014

MISIONES C Accommodation in Puerto Iguazú Hotels

Esturión Iguazú, Avenida Tres Fronteras 650 ACDEFGHJKLMNPRS$TUVXYZ Fax 420100 @ 420020 *** Alexander, Avenida Córdoba 222 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 420566 @ 420249 *** El Libertador, Bompland 475 near P Moreno Fax 420984 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 420570 *** Saint George, Avenida Córdoba 148 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 420631/3 fax • Latino, Avenida Victoria Aguirre 391 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 420405 @ 420925 * Paraná, Avenida Brasil 24 AELPSV @ 422206

*****

$D

2

$G

2

$G $F

2 2

$F $G

2 2

$G

1

Hosterías

Casablanca, Avenida Guaraní 121 AELPV @ 421320 Los Helechos, Paulino Amarante 76 AEFGHPRY Near bus terminal; German spoken @ 420338 • Pirayu Club Internacional de Vacaciones, Ave. Tres Fronteras 550 @ 439693

* *

Residenciales A A A A A A B B B

Gloria, Uruguay 344 LPS Iguacor, Avenida San Lorenzo 133 LP King, Aguirre 209 LPR La Cabaña, Avenida Tres Fronteras 434 LPS Misiones, Aguirre 389 LPS Tierra Colorada, El Uru 28 LP Lilian, Francisco Luis Beltrán 83 L Paquita, Avenida Córdoba 158 L San Fernando, Avenida Córdoba 693 near Misiones L Opposite bus terminal C Arco Iris, Curupi 152 R • Bompland, Ave. Bompland 33 ALPY • Noelia, Fray Luis Beltrán 119 ALP • Rioselva, San Lorenzo 140 • San Diego, Guaraní 75 • Uno, Fray Luis Beltrán 116

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

420231 421113 420360 420564 420991 420649 420968 420434 fax 421429

@ @ @ @

420636 420965 420729 421555

@

420529

$G/H 2

$H

2

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2 2 2 2 2 2 2

$H

2

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1 1

Accommodation on RN 12 Hotels

Cataratas, KM 4 ACDEFGHJKLMNPRS$TUVXYZ Fax 421090 @ 421100 *** Las Orquídeas, KM 5, past the turnoff to the Puente Internacional Fax 420195 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 420472 *** Tropical, KM 4 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 421457 @ 420982 • Complejo Turístico Viejo Americano, KM 4. On 12 ha with plenty of trees ABK @ 420982 fax Attached is also a camping area and a hostel for budget travelers • Gran Hotel Resort Iguazú, RN 12 @ 498050 E-mail: [email protected]

*****

Albergues

• El Pindó, KM 3.5 • Yaguarete, KM 5 also camping

@ @

1015

421795 426317

Puerto Iguazú

MESOPOTAMIA Accommodation in Puerto Iguazú — continued Hosterías **

AEFGJLPSUV

Puerto Canoas, KM 3.5 Fax 421340

@

421130

$F

2

Accommodation in Parque Nacional Iguazú *****

*****

Hotel Internacional Iguazú, 7 km from airport ACEKLRSTUY@ 420295 $C 2 Overlooks the falls; helicopter flights over the falls are available. Fax 421600. Web site: www.iguazufalls.com Hotel Sheraton Iguazú, @ 420296

tourist spots, the spectacular Cataratas del Iguazú or Iguazú Falls, a short bus ride from town. The first European to see the falls was Álvarez Nuñez Cabeza de Vaca in 1541. The name “Iguazú” is a Guaraní word meaning “big water”. The falls form a semicircle of about 1500 m and are shared by Argentina and Brazil. All in all there are about 275 cataracts.

A Festivals

The 480 m long Puente Internacional Tancred Neves (Tancred Neves International Bridge), just 3 km below the falls, links Puerto Iguazú with Foz do Iguaçu. The border checkpoints on either side of the bridge are open 24 hours a day and procedures are very relaxed. The climate is very humid, and in summer the temperature ranges from 15°C (60°F) to 25°C (77°F). The best time to visit is between March and June, and between August and November. It is overcrowded in July.

Key to map A C D E H I $ T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Hospital Dirección General de Turismo Banco de Misiones Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 2 3 7 11 13 18 19 20 21

Hotel Esturión Iguazú Residencial La Cabaña Residencial Misiones Hotel Paraná Hotel El Libertador Hotel Saint George Residencial Paquita Residencial San Fernando Hotel Alexander

Puerto Iguazú

•

Fiesta Provincial del Turismo (Provincial Tourist Festival): December

B Tourist information

•

Dirección General de Turismo, Aguirre 396 @ 420800 fax

D Camping

•

•

Complejo Turístico Americano, on RN 12 at KM 5 @ 420190 fax. Cabins are available and there is a supermarket. Camping $J 1; cabins $G 2; dormitory $J 1 Camping El Pindó, RN 12 KM 3 almost opposite the turnoff to the Puente Internacional @ 421795.

22 Residencial Tierra Colorada 23 Residencial Arco Iris 24 Hostería Los Helechos 25 Residencial Lilian 26 Residencial King 27 Residencial Uno 28 Hostería Casablanca 29 Residencial San Diego 30 Residencial Rioselva 31 Residencial Iguacor

4 Eating out 5

Restaurant Cámara de Comercio 9 Restaurant Fechorías 14 Restaurant El Tío Querido 16 Restaurant La Rueda 17 Restaurant El Charo

1016

6 Airline offices 8 Austral 12 LAPA

7 Tour operators and car rental 6

Merco Rent a Car

0 Sights 1 4

Hito Argentino lookout Museo y Centro de Interpretación Parque Nacional Iguazú 15 Museo Mborore

9 Services

10 Casa de Cambio Dick

MISIONES PUERTO IGUAZÚ

PARAGUAY Río Alto Paraná

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1017

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Puerto Iguazú

MESOPOTAMIA Dormitory style accommodation $J 1. Also tent hire

L Financial

•

E Eating out

•

Restaurants All major hotels have good restaurants. • Blanco Paraíso, Avenida Victoria Aguirre 262 • Cámara de Comercio, Victoria Aguirre 354. Parrilla • China, Ushuaia 168 • El Charo, Avenida Córdoba 106 • El Tío Querido, Bompland 124. Parrilla • Fechorías, G. Eppens 294 • Juan Boliche, Ave. Victoria Aguirre 519 • La Rueda, Avenida Córdoba 28 near Victoria Aguirre K. Parrilla • Oásis, Ave. Tres Fronteras 550 • Parrilla Tomas, Ave. Córdoba near Ave. Misiones • Pizzería Bambino, Bompland Eating out at the Iguazú Falls All eating places are in the Hotel International complex. Restaurants • Beef Club. Parrilla • El Estaño • Garganta del Diablo. International cuisine • Jeriba Bar. Snacks and drinks Cafeterías • La Vega Coffee Shop, Ave. Victoria Aguirre 250 • La Peña de Atahualpa, Gustavo eppens 209. Peña weekends

•

P Visas, passports

•

• •

Procedures at the border crossing from Argentina into Brazil are relaxed, but there are some complications. If you are only making a day trip to Foz do Iguaçu in Brazil it is simple enough. There is no need to get your passport stamped; the guards at the border will just wave the bus through. These buses start at the terminal in Puerto Iguazú and end at the local bus terminal in Foz do Iguaçu. If you just want to visit the Brazilian side of the Iguazú Falls you don’t even need to go all the way into Foz do Iguaçu; just get off at the intersection, about 300 m past the Brazilian border guards, and wait there for the national park bus. These buses start their journey at the short-distance terminal in Foz do Iguaçu. If you are leaving Argentina, however, things are a little more complicated. Since there are no local buses from Puerto Iguazú to the border, you need to catch the international bus (fare $3.00). When you reach the border you must get your passport stamped on the Argentine side and then walk across to the Brazilian checkpoint. The international bus will not wait while you do this, but this is not a problem because there is a local bus which goes from the Brazilian checkpoint directly into Foz do Iguaçu (fare $0.50). If you wait for the next international bus you must pay the full fare again ($3.00). From the urban bus terminal in Foz do Iguaçu there are also international buses to Ciudad del Este in Paraguay. The cities of Foz do Iguaçu and Ciudad del Este almost merge into one other, more so than do Puerto Iguazú and Foz do Iguaçu. The road leading up to the Paraguayan border is lined with hotels, motels, and restaurants. If continuing further into Brazil

Casino, RN 12 near Avenida Presidente Perón. Open daily except Tuesday, from 22:00 Disco Azaro, Avenida Misiones 110 Cambalache Tango Bar, Paraguay 546

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, San Martín 780 near Azara Telephone: Telecom, Avenida Victoria Aguirre 794 near Los Cedros

Puerto Iguazú

Brazilian vice-consulate, Avenida Victoria Aguirre @ 421348. Open Mon–Fri 08:30–12:00 and 15:00–20:00

Q Border crossing

n Entertainment •

Banco de Misiones, Ave. V. Aguirre 330. ATM Cambio Argecam, Avenida Victoria Aguirre 562 @ 421311 Casa de Cambio Dick, Avenida Victoria Aguirre 467 @ 420319

1018

MISIONES S Buses from Puerto Iguazú

The bus terminal is on the corner of Avenida Córdoba and Avenida Misiones. It has clean restrooms, a cloakroom, and Restaurant Tomás. Bus information at local 20 @ 421916. Bus companies • A28 Central Argentino • A37 Ciudad de Posadas • A47 COTAL • A52 El Canario • A60 El Litoral • A61 El Norte Bis • A96 Empresa Iguazú • A100 Empresa Kurtz @ 421599 • A113 Tigre Iguazú @ 420854 • A132 Expreso Singer @ 421530/422891 • A135 Via Bariloche @ 435788 • A142 Horianski • A148 O. Klein • A177 Martignoni • A219 Tony Tur • A273 Crucero del Norte @ 420291 • A279 Empresa Eldorado • Empresa Tres Fronteras, Marmelero 255 @ 420377 fax; e-mail: [email protected] Long-distance services •

Destination Buenos Aires

Fare $55.00

Services 12 daily

• • • •

Catamarca Córdoba Corrientes Eldorado

$75.90 $39.60

3 weekly 2 daily 3 daily 15 daily

•

Foz do Iguaçu (Brazil) 1 hr Tres Fronteras $2.50 15 daily 2 La Plata 1 daily 21 hrs A132 La Rioja 3 weekly A47 Mendoza 3 weekly 36 hrs A47 Oberá 2 daily A132 Paraná 2 daily 171 4 A60, A100 Parque Nacional Iguaçu (Brazil) Tres Fronteras Parque Nacional Iguazú (Argentina) $2.50 10 daily from 06:40–19:45 Tres Fronteras, Cataratas Posadas $24.00 20 daily 5–7 hrs A28, A37, A47, A52, A60, A96, A100, A113, A132, A142, A177, A273, A279 Resistencia $41.10 2 daily 91 2 hrs A37, A100 Rosario 12 daily A37, A100, A113, A132, A135, A142, A148, A219, A273 San Juan 3 weekly A47 Santa Fe $50.00 3 daily 163 4 hrs A60, A61, A100, A132

• • • • • • • • • • • •

Duration Company 21 hrs A37, A100, A113, A132, A135, A142, A148, A219, A273 A47, A113 23 hrs A60, A132 11 hrs A37, A47 3 hrs A28, A37, A47, A52, A60, A96, A100, A113, A132, A142, A177, A273, A279

1019

Puerto Iguazú

MESOPOTAMIA Buses from Puerto Iguazú — continued • • •

Santiago del Estero Tucumán Wanda $4.80

3 weekly 3 weekly 17 daily

A47, A113 A47, A113 1 hr A28, A37, A47, A52, A60, A96, A100, A113, A132, A142, A177, A273, A279

you have to go to the long-distance bus terminal on Ave. Costa e Silva, a short distance from the town center.

R Air services

Aeropuerto Internacional Cataratas del Iguazú is 10 km east of town, near the Parque Nacional. If you are staying at the Hotel Internacional Iguazú inside the national park, the hotel provides free transport to the airport. Airlines • Austral, Avenida. V. Aguirre 295 @ 420237 • LAPA, Bompland 110 near Perito Moreno, local 2 @ 420390, fax 420214 Services • Buenos Aires ($100/180; 13 4 hrs); 4 daily, Austral

•

•

s Excursions Tour operators • Macuco Tours, Avenida República Argentina 311 @ 421695. Photographic tours in the Parque Nacional Iguazú • Turismo Caracol, Avenida Victoria Aguirre 563 @ 420064 • Turismo Dick, Avenida Victoria Aguirre 226 @ 420556 Tours • Cataratas del Iguazú, or Iguazú Falls: 20 km eastwards. These 31 2 km wide falls must be one of the most spectacular sights in South America. They are located 20 km upstream from the junction of the Río Iguazú with the Río Alto Paraná. There are two walking tracks on the Argentine side of the falls — an upper and a lower — and the flora along these paths has been labelled. The constant spray from the falls makes the air moist, and on sunny days rainbows form from many angles. It is advisable to bring or hire a raincoat if you plan to go close to any of the larger waterfalls. The lower walk leads to a ferry terminal from where it is possible to cross

U Motoring •

Service station: Shell service station, Córdoba near Misiones Car hire Car hire costs $145.00 per day with 250 km free. • A1 Rent a Car, Hotel Esturion, Ave. Tres Fronteras @ 422436 • Merco Rent a Car, Avenida Victoria Aguirre 311 @ 420926 • Witt Rent a Car, Aeropuerto Internacional Cataratas del Iguazú @ 420596

Y Shopping

Most shops selling regional articles are along Avenida Victoria Aguirre. • Artesanías Indígenas, Avenida Victoria Aguirre near Avenida Tres Fronteras

p Sightseeing •

At the corner of Avenida Tres Fronteras and Avenida Costanera there is a lookout with panoramic

Puerto Iguazú

views over the area where the borders of Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay meet. The Río Iguazú joins the Río Alto Paraná at this intersection of the borders. There is a cafeteria and a picnic area. The rivers below are only about 150–200 m wide and you can easily see into Paraguay and Brazil without binoculars. There is a similar lookout on the Brazilian side Museo y Centro de Interpretación Parque Nacional Iguazú (Iguazú National Park Museum), Avenida Victoria Aguirre 66. Exhibits flora and fauna of the national park. Open daily 17:00–21:00. Admission $1.00 Museo Mborore, San Martín near Ave. Misiones

1020

MISIONES to the Isla San Martín. From the beach on the island you can climb a flight of stairs to get a closer look at the Salto San Martín, one of the biggest falls. The roar of the water here is so loud it is impossible to hear yourself speak. There are walks in the park which pass over bridges that are only a few meters away from the sheets of water which tumble down into the mists of the gorge below. Helicopter flights over the falls are available on both sides of the border and cost $50.00 for half an hour. Be sure to bring plenty of film because the views are breathtaking. You can buy film at the falls but it is expensive. There are kiosks along the walking tracks where you can buy coffee and sandwiches, and in Puerto Canoas there is an open-air restaurant. The Argentine side is a lot larger than the Brazilian side but can be visited comfortably in one day. The 1km long catwalk leading to a viewing platform overlooking the Garganta del Diablo (“Devil’s Gorge”) has been destroyed by a flood. Rubber dinghies ferry the tourists now to the viewing platform; this is an excellent vantage point from which to take photographs of one of the biggest waterfalls as it tumbles over the edge of the cliff. Curiously, you can see birds darting effortlessly in and out of the falling water. To really appreciate the grandeur of the falls a visit should include both the Brazilian and the Argentine side. When taking the international bus to Foz do Iguaçu in Brazil ask the driver to let you off at the intersection just after the border checkpoint, and wait there for a connecting bus to the national park. The wildlife in the park includes brightly colored parrots, toucans and tiny monkeys. Empresa Cataratas operates services from the bus terminal. Buses start at 06:30 at 45 minutes intervals; last return bus from the national park is at 20:10. The return fare of $2.00 includes the trip to the Hotel

•

•

1021

Internacional Cataratas inside the national park; the fare from the hotel to Puerto Canoas is $0.50. The ferry trip to Isla San Martín is free. The $5.00 entrance fee to the park is extra. Set out early in the morning as there are literally hundreds of buses making the trip each day and the traffic is less hectic earlier in the day Wanda: To reach Wanda take RN 12 south for 48 km, until you come to a turnoff. From the turnoff it is another 2 km to Wanda. Nearby is an amethyst mine which sells gemstones. This trip can be combined with a visit to the Uruga-I hydroelectric scheme on the Río Uruga-í, a further 38 km south on RN 12. The site is about 3 km before the junction of the Río Uruga-I with the Río Alto Paraná. This is a huge project; the dam wall is 665 m long. The dam itself rises 71 m above river level and creates a lake covering about 8844 ha (21 850 acres). There is a large and developing logging industry in this region, and the electricity generated by the scheme is mainly used to run the increasing numbers of paper mills all over Misiones province. See also Wanda on page 1014 Bernardo de Irigoyen on the Río Uruguay: This trip is recommended for those keen to see the “outback” of Misiones province. Daily buses cover the entire length of the Parque Nacional Iguazú. En route you pass frontier settlements like Cabure-I. As the name suggests, this town was originally a Guaraní settlement. From Bernardo de Irigoyen you can make a return trip by public bus to San Pedro, via Tobuna, in the Sierra de Misiones. From San Pedro you can take the sierra road to Oberá, or the road back to Eldorado. The buses which make this trip are frequent, and Kruse, Iguazú, and Cotal all operate services. See also Bernardo de Irigoyen on page 992, San Pedro on page 1025, Oberá on page 1003, and Eldorado on page 995

Puerto Iguazú

MESOPOTAMIA

PUERTO RICO

Puerto Rico Population: 12 000 Postal code: 3334 @ area code: (03743) Altitude: 205 m Distances From Posadas: 129 km north-east on RN 12 • From Puerto Iguazú: 178 km south-west on RN 12 •

P

uerto Rico is located on the Río Alto Paraná, and is the center of a citrus packing industry. There is a fishing club here, and some good camping spots. • Restaurant Matías, RN 12 • Restaurant Patricia, Buenos Aires 182 Eating out in Ruiz de Montoya • Club Suizo, has a dining room; off the main road

Nearby tourist spots are Capioví 12 km south of town, with its waterfalls, and Ruiz de Montoya 4 km further up with the Swiss Club.

B Tourist information •

I Post and telegraph

Oficina Municipal de Turismo, Avenida San Martín near Yerbal

•

D Camping

•

There is a camping ground near Salto Tres de Mayo, about 15 km out of Puerto Rico. The grounds are 5 km off the main road.

Post office: Correo Argentino, Yatasto 105 Telephone: Telecom Argentina, Moreno near Córdoba

S Buses

E Eating out

Buses run regularly to Posadas and Puerto Iguazú. • Expreso Singer, bus terminal @420386

•

•

•

• •

Comedor Familiar, Ricardo Gutiérrez 188 Restaurant El Buen Comer, Comandante. Andresito 36 Restaurant El Tiempo, Avenida San Martín 1641 Restaurant La Candela, Avenida San Martín 1830

U Motoring

Service station: Y.P.F., San Martín

# Water transport

The ferry service to Puerto Triunfo in Paraguay operates daily from

C Accommodation in Puerto Rico ***

Hostería Suiza, Avenida San Martín 836 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

@ @

492246 492346

$H $H

2 2

A Central, Avenida San Martín 2464 LP @ A Omega, RN 12 intersection with RP 1 LP @ C Internacional, Reconquista 1698 @ C Residencial Roma, M. Moreno 57 near Avenida San Martín LP @

420209 420451 492338

$I $H

2 2

492382

$I

2

493147 fax

$G

2

**

Hotel Caravan, Avenida San Martín 1527 AEFGJLPUV

Residenciales

Accommodation in Capioví

• Hotel Castillo, RN 12 near Los Proceres ADEKLY

Puerto Rico

1022

@

MISIONES 08:00–17:30 except Sunday. The last ferry returns from Paraguay at 17:00.

p Sightseeing •

Museo de Ciencias Naturales (Natural Sciences Museum), Municipalidad de Puerto Rico. Open Mon–Fri 15:00–18:00

•

s Excursions •

Gruta India (Indian Cave): Artifacts from pre-Columbian times have been found in this cave. The turnoff to the

cave is 15 km north of Puerto Rico on RN 12. Once you have turned off RN 12 it is 7 km further on a dirt road to the cave. On the road to the cave there is a camping ground, with natural swimming pools and the 3 de Mayo waterfall Salto del Capioví: 12 km south. This waterfall plunges down 15 m into a natural swimming pool. It is a scenic spot, and there are frequent buses to and from Puerto Rico

SAN IGNACIO

San Ignacio Population: 5000 Postal code: 3322 @ area code: (03752) Distances From Posadas: 61 km north on RN 12 • From Puerto Iguazú: 249 km south on RN 12 •

S

an Ignacio is the modern township built near the former Jesuit mission of San Ignacio Miní. The original San Ignacio was initially established as a Jesuit reducción in 1610 in what is now the Brazilian state of Paraná. Constant attacks by the Portuguese slave-hunting Paulistas forced the Jesuits to seek new lands further west. So in 1631 Padre Antonio Ruiz de Montoya organized the exodus of 11 000 Guaranís. Only about 3000 survived this arduous journey, rafting down the rivers, braving the rapids, and hacking their way through formidable terrain. In 1632 the second foundation of San Ignacio Miní took place on the banks of the Arroyo Yabebiri, near its junction with the Río Alto Paraná. This location proved unsuitable, and in 1695 the Jesuits moved the reducción to its present site close by. When the Jesuits were expelled in 1767 the once-prosperous community fell into decline. The final blow came in 1816 when the Paraguayan dictator Francia ordered the destruction of all the Indian villages as part of his infamous “scorched earth policy”. To prevent the destruction of San Ignacio, one of General Artigas’ armies under the command of a Guaraní by the name of “Andresito” Guacurari recaptured it. After this only a small number of Guaranís remained in what had once been a

flourishing town. The site was rediscovered in 1896. Today the entrance to San Ignacio Miní is through an archway that was originally part of the Jesuit foundations. The 100 square meter plaza is flanked by schools, cloisters, and workshops. The church was completed in 1724. This is a very interesting place, and a visit is highly recommended. Open daily from 07:00–18:00. There is a small charge for admission.

1023

San Ignacio

MESOPOTAMIA B Tourist information

p Sightseeing

•

Padre José Marx of the local Catholic church is an authority on the Guaranís. He has written several books on the history of the Guaranís and on the missionary work of the Jesuits. English and German translations of his books are available.

C Accommodation

A Residencial San Ignacio, Sarmiento 823 LP @ 470047 $H 2 • Private accommodation: Sarmiento near Rivadavia, behind the church $I 1

•

D Camping •

C a m p i n g Y a b e b i r i E w. T h e s e grounds are 8 km outside San Ignacio on the banks of the Arroyo Yabebiri, not far from Peñón Reina Victoria (Queen Victoria Rock)

•

E Eating out

Near the entrance to the San Ignacio Miní complex there are a number of parrillas, restaurants, and cafés. • Restaurant Artemio, just outside the Jesuit ruins • Restaurant La Carpa Azúl, Rivadavia 1995 • Restaurant Li Ana Bert, Rivadavia 1132 • Restaurant Portal del Sol, Rivadavia 1105 near Medina

s Excursions

•

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Avenida San Martín near H. Yrigoyen Telephone: Telecom, corner of San Martín and Lanusse

S Buses

The bus terminal is at the extreme end of Sarmiento. It has a cafeteria. • Posadas ($1.50; 1 hour); 20 daily, Empresa Klein, Chito, Tigre Iguazú, Expreso Singer • Oberá ($4.00); Expreso Singer • Puerto Iguazú (17.00; 6 hrs); 15 daily, Empresa Cotal, Empresa Klein, Tigre Iguazú, Expreso Singer, Horianski

• •

U Motoring •

Service station: Esso, RN 12

San Ignacio

The entrance to the ruins of San Ignacio Miní is on the corner of Rivadavia and Medina. This is the best-preserved Jesuit mission center in Misiones province. Although completely destroyed by the dictator Francia 1810, they have been carefully restored and are now one of the major tourist attractions in Misiones, if not Argentina. You can explore the entire site comfortably in half a day. Open daily from 07:00–19:00. Admission $2.50 The house of Horacio Quiroga. This former home of the Argentine poet has now been converted into a museum. Open daily from 07:00–19:00. Small admission fee Peñón del Teyú Cuaré A 150 m high rock on the banks of the Río Paraná. The top of the rock has been flattened into a platform and affords panoramic views over the river below. A staircase leads up from the river to the top

1024

Santa Ana: This is another Jesuit mission near San Ignacio which is still completely overgrown by rain forest. To get there take the local bus to Posadas, and ask the driver to let you off near the turnoff to the Ruinas de Santa Ana. From there you walk about 11 2 km over a rough road; the bridge you cross on the way was built by the Jesuits. Right after the bridge there is a junction, but stay on the left-hand trail. Shortly afterwards you arrive at a clearing in the jungle and beyond this are the ruins of the former mission, the walls still overgrown with lianas and vines. Empresa Klein has bus services. Admission $2.00 Jesuit Mission of Loreto. Located 8 km south of San Ignacio, reached on a dirt road. Admission $2.00 Isla Pindo-I: A 10 ha (25 acres) lush tropical island in the Río Alto Paraná, which here flows quickly and forms rapids. To reach the island take RN 12 for 11 km north of San Ignacio until you come to the turnoff to Corpus, which is a further 7 km. This is a good fishing spot. The ferry to Bella Vista in Paraguay operates Mon–Fri 08:00–12:00 and 15:00–17:00

MISIONES

SAN JAVIER

San Javier Population: 15 000 Postal code: 3357 @ area code: (03754) Distance from Posadas: 123 km east on RN 12 then south-east on RP 4

S

an Javier is located on the upper reaches of the Río Uruguay, right on the Brazilian border. There is a ferry service across the river to Porto Lucena in Brazil. Nearby are the ruins of a Jesuit mission settlement founded in 1629. There is good fishing in the river here. Cerro de Monje is a religious shrine from which you have a sweeping view of the surrounding lush country. Also nearby are the rapids of Cumandai. •

Transport to San Javier goes via Leandro N Alem.

C Accommodation

Posadas (3 hrs): 5 daily, Expreso Aguila Dorada, Horianski, Nuestra Señora del Rosario

U Motoring

A Hostería de Turismo San Javier, Chacabuco FLP @ 482324 $H 2

•

E Eating out

# Water transport

• • • •

Launches and ferries to Porto Lucena in Brazil leave from Paso de la Barca. Daily services 08:00–17:30; the fare is $2.00.

Restaurant El Encuentro, Sarmiento 180 Restaurant El Resorte II, 25 de Mayo Restaurant Los Cuatro G., Roque González Restaurant Porotos, Roque González 612

p Sightseeing

•

S Buses • •

Service station: Y.P.F., 25 de Mayo 408

Posadas (3 hrs); departs 10:45; 4 daily, Empresa Aguila Dorada Oberá ($3.00; 3 hrs); departs 05:00; 5 daily, Empresa Aguila Dorada

Museo Arqueológico e Histórico (Archeological and Historical Museum), Libertad y Ordóñez 601. Open Mon–Fri 06:00–12:00 and from 16:00–20:00

SAN PEDRO

San Pedro Postal code: 3364 @ area code: (03751) Altitude: 510 m Distance from Posadas: 270 km north-east on RN 12 then east on RP 14

S

an Pedro is located in the Sierra de Misiones at the point where RP 16 to Montecarlo meets RN 14. RN 14 is now paved south to Oberá and north to RP 17, the paved link between San Bernardo de Irigoyen on the Río Uruguay and Eldorado on the Río Alto Paraná. This trip off the beaten track can be made by bus.

1025

San Pedro

MESOPOTAMIA C Accommodation • •

Museum), Sra. Hilda Gadea de Añais, Dirección General de Cultura

Residencial Posada Ita Roga, 25 de Mayo and San Martín Residencial Americano, Avenida General Güemes 668 near 25 de Mayo @ 470204 $H 2.

s Excursions

•

E Eating out •

Comedor Rotonda, Avenida General Güemes

S Buses • • •

Eldorado (6 hrs); 1 daily, Eldorado Oberá (5 hrs); 1 daily; Expreso Singer Posadas (7 hrs); 4 daily; Central Argentino, Empresa Martignoni, O. Klein, Empresa Eldorado

U Motoring •

Service station: Y.P.F., Avenida General Güemes

p Sightseeing •

Museo Histórico y Arqueológico (Historical and Archeological

Bernardo de Irigoyen on the Brazilian border: This 70 km trip via T o b u n a p a s s e s t h r o u g h l i ttle-traveled parts of Misiones Province. The road is rough in places and can become unpassable in heavy rain. An overnight stop can be made in Bernardo de Irigoyen, where there is an excellent A.C.A. hostería. From Bernardo de Irigoyen you can visit Dionisio Cerqueira in Brazil; from the Brazilian bus terminal buses run to various destinations, including Florianopolis and São Paolo. Or you can return to Eldorado on the Río Alto Paraná on the same day, with Empresa Kruse. See also Bernardo de Irigoyen on page 992, Puerto Iguazú on page 1020, and Eldorado on page 995

SAN VICENTE

San Vicente @ area code: (03755) Distance from Oberá: 92 km north-east on RN 14

S

an Vicente is located in the Sierra de Misiones, at the turnoff to El Soberbio, on the Río Uruguay. It is the center of a substantial timber industry. The area around San Vicente has many waterfalls. Despite heavy logging there is still a substantial cover of original rain forest. A large tract of land to the east, approximately 250 000 ha (617 750 acres) has been set aside as Reserva Biosfera “Yaboti” which is still teeming with wildlife including jaguars and monkeys.

A Festivals •

D Camping

•

Fiesta Provincial de la Madera (Provincial Timber Festival): November

C Accommodation •

Camping Balneario El Trébol, RN 14 KM 8 @ 460477. Scenic spot with rock pool and walking trails through the forest to Salto Los Cedros and Salto Rosa Mística Camping Salto Taruma, on RP 212 (the road to El Soberbio), 4 km from intersection with RN 14

Hotel Richard Palace, Avenida • Libertador 220 S @ 460094 $G 2 A Residencial Centro Hotel, Avenida del Libertador 913 LP @ 460850 $H 2 B Residencial Candelaria L B Residencial El Brasileño, Avenida E Eating out Tejeda 1022 ELP @ 460442 $I 2 & • Parrilla Río Grande, Avenida Tejeda 404

San Vicente

1026

MISIONES S Buses

°

Buses run regularly to Oberá and El Soberbio. ° Apóstoles (4 1 4 hrs); 2 daily; Crucero del Norte, Expreso Singer ° Leandro N. Alem (23 4 hrs); 2 daily; Crucero del Norte, Expreso Singer

•

Oberá (21 4hrs); 2 daily; Crucero del Norte, Expreso Singer Posadas (4 hrs); 1 daily, Don Tito

U Motoring

•

1027

Service station: Y.P.F., Avenida Libertador

San Vicente

USEFUL WEB SITES AND E-MAIL ADDRESSES ARGENTINA San Luis Province • Merlo: www.mercotour.com/villademerlo Catamarca Province • www.catamarca.com • www.catamarcahuasi.com.ar La Rioja Province • www.vfhosting.com.ar/larioja • www.geocities.com • Chilecito: [email protected] Córdoba Province • www.cordoba.com.ar • www.virtualcordoba.com • San Francisco: www.sanfco.com.ar/municipalidad/servicios3.htm Mendoza Province • www.cuyo.com Buenos Aires Province • Lobos: www.lobosweb.com.ar Tucumán Province • www.tucuman-ar.com/sturismo/servicio/rubros Neuquén Province • [email protected]

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Chubut Province • www. Madryn.com • [email protected] Santa Cruz Province • www.scruz.gov.ar Entre Ríos Province • www.entre-rios.com.ar • Gualeguaychú: www.multired.com/viajes Misiones Province • www.misiones.org.ar Tierra del Fuego • Dirección de Turismo Ushuaia, San Martín 660 Ushuaia 9410, Telefax: 54-2901-424550; e-mail: [email protected] • Captur, Río Grande: e-mail [email protected] Bus companies • General Urquiza/Sierras de Córdoba: Web site www.generalurquiza.com.ar; e-mail [email protected] Cyber cafés Buenos Aires Province • La Plata: Cyberworld, Calle 48-610 near Calle 7, local 7; e-mail: [email protected] Buenos Aires City • American Cybercafe, Maure 1886; e-mail: [email protected] Santa Fe Province • Rosario: Cibercafes de Rosario Doino Group, Rodríguez 962; e-mail: [email protected]

1029

GLOSSARY ALOSSARY G A RGENTINA A.C.A.

Automóvil Club Argentino (Argentine Automobile Club) Adobe sun-baked bricks made of clay or mud with straw added Aeroparque Jorge Newbery airport in Buenos Aires for internal flights and some flights to Uruguay and Paraguay Aeropuerto airport Alameda wide avenue; mall Albergue hostel; lodging Al diente “eat as much as you like” Alfajores sweets; candy Algarrobo a tree in the chaco Almirante admiral Alojamiento accommodation Alpaca a relative of the llama, domesticated by the Indians Altiplano tableland above 3000 m Andinista mountaineer in the Andes Apart Hotel suite of apartments available for hire Arco iris (as in “trucha arco iris”) rainbow trout Arroyo stream Artesanías handicrafts Automotor motor coach on the railroad; railcar Autopista motorway; freeway

B

Bagre Bahía Balneario Baño Bar Bis

Barrio Boca Bodega Bosque Brazo Bulevar

C

part of the name of a lane parallel to a neighboring larger street of the same name; for example “Calle 23 Bis” is a lane next to and parallel with “Calle 23” quarter; district mouth (of a river) wine shop; wine cellar forest arm (of a lake) boulevard

Cabaña cabin Cabildo colonial town council Cabina publica public telephone booth Cacique Indian chief Cafetería coffee shop, café Calle street Cambio money exchange Cañada glen Cañadon large glen Cañon canyon Capilla chapel Capitán captain Caranday a type of palm growing in inland provinces Carpincho capybara, a type of native pig Casa house; home Casa de té tearoom Casa de Gobierno house of the Legislative Assembly Castillo castle Catarata large waterfall Catedral cathedral Caverna cavern Ceiba silk cotton tree Centolla spider crab Cerro hill; mountain Cervecería beer saloon Chaco savanna

South American catfish bay beach resort; spa toilet; bathroom bar where both food and drink are available where streets have numbers instead of names, “bis” is

1030

GLOSSARY Estancia Este Estero

Cherimoya a t r o p i c a l f r u i t ; c u stard-apple Chico small Cholga giant mussel Chopería beer garden Chullpa Indian burial ground in the Andes Churrería place where churros are served Churrasquerría restaurant serving barbecued meat Churro a type of sausage-shaped sweet fritter Ciudad city Coati a tropical American raccoon Coihue a tree growing in the Andes Colectivo a type of municipal bus Colegio college Colla Indian inhabitant of the altiplano Comandante commandant Comedor eating place; dining room Complejo complex; compound Confitería confectionery shop-cumcoffee shop Cordillera mountain range Cornisa a narrow winding road, often through mountain scenery Coronel colonel Costanera wide pleasant road beside a river, lake, or sea Cuadra city block Cuesta mountain pass road Cueva cave Cumbre summit, mountain top

F

Falda FC Fería Ferro Carril Fray Fuerte Galería Gaucho Glaciar Golfo Grande Guanaco

mall, shopping arcade Argentine cowboy glacier gulf big a relative of the llama living in the pampa Guardaparque ranger in a national park

H

Hacienda Heladería Hnos Hospedaje Hostería Huemul

I

Iglesia Ingeniero Intendencia Intendente

Delegación branch office Departamento division of a province Desagüe outflow of water from a lake Dique dam Dirección government department Dorado a giant edible golden carp Embalse Empresa Encotel Entel

the lower part of a hillside “Ferro Carril” — railroad fair railroad Brother (religious) fort

G

D

E

cattle ranch east swamp where a river finishes

Isla

J

Jefatura

L

Lago Laguna Lavandería Línea Lobería Local

dam enterprise; equivalent of “Co.” the name of the Argentine post office the name of the Argentine telephone company

Locro

1031

farm ice-cream parlor “Hermanos” — equivalent of “Bros.” cheap lodgings hostelry; inn an American deer church engineer national park headquarters the chief officer of a departamento island local police station lake small lake laundry, laundromat train or bus line seal colony shop, as in “Local 12” (shop number 12) a meat and vegetable stew, popular in the north-west

ARGENTINA Plazoleta small plaza Portazuelo highest point of a cornisa, often a pass Posada inn Precordillera foothills of the Andes Propina tip; gratuity Provincia province, the chief political and administrative division of Argentina Pub English-style “pub” Pucará pre-Hispanic fortifications Puchero a dish containing meat and vegetables Pudú a rare dwarf deer Puerto port Puna arid tableland in the Andes Punilla semi-arid tableland in the Sierras de Córdoba Punta point

Lomitería

a type of small restaurant serving meat dishes Loro parrot Loro barranquero a type of loro

M

Mandioca Mara Maté Mayor Meseta Mesón

manioc Patagonian hare Paraguayan herb tea bigger; older plateau; table-land restaurant serving Spanish-style meals Micro a type of municipal bus, synonymous with colectivo Municipalidad town hall Museo museum

N

Nación Nacional Ñandú Norte

O

Oeste

Q

nation national rhea or South American ostrich north

Quebracho blanco a hardwood tree found mostly in the chaco region. Quebracho means “axbreaker” Quebrada gorge; ravine Quechua the Inca language, still spoken widely in the north-west

west

P

R

Pacú an Argentine river fish Palo barroso, Palo borracho trees growing in the chaco Palometa a carnivorous fish Pampa the huge grassy plains east of the Andes Pampero a cold southerly blowing across the pampa Panadería bakery Parque park Parrilla grill; grilled meat Pasaje passage; lane Paseo promenade Paso mountain pass Pejerrey atherine, an Argentine freshwater fish Peña informal folk concert, usually with both singing and dancing Pescadería fish market Pico mountain peak Pizzería literally a pizza shop, but also sells light meals Plaza place; town square

Recreo

amusement place, usually with a dance floor Reducción settlement of Indians converted to Christianity; reservation Refugio mountain hut Regionales shop specializing in local handicrafts Reserva Nacional national nature reserve Residencial cheap lodgings Río river RN “Ruta Nacional”— national highway Robalo sea bass RP “Ruta Provincial” — provincial highway Ruta highway

S

SA

1032

“Sociedad Anónima” — equivalent of “Ltd.”

GLOSSARY Salar Salina Salto Selva Sierra Subte Sur Surubí

Argentino, usually consisting of good-quality cabins

salt lake, usually dry, in the altiplano salt pan waterfall; rapids jungle short mountain chain the underground rail system in Buenos Aires south an edible fish in the Río Paraná and Río Uruguay

V

Valle valley Ventisquero glacier Vicuña a rare South American relative of the llama with particularly fine wool Vizcacha a South American rodent living at high altitude

T

W

Tambería, Tambo staging post on a former Inca road Tanguería a place where tango music is played and danced to Teatro theatre Teniente lieutenant Termas hot springs Trucha trout

Whiskería

Y

Yacaré Yaguarete Y.P.F.

U

Unidad Turística a tourist complex owned by the Automóvil Club

1033

literally, a place for drinking whisky; bar cayman, a small alligator jaguar the state-owned petrol company

INDEX INDEX A RGENTINA

T

his index references all place-names mentioned in the Travel Companion: cities, towns, and localities; rivers, streams, glaciers and waterfalls; lakes, lagunas, salinas, and dams; mountains, volcanoes, and ranges; and national and provincial parks and nature reserves. Each place-name referenced in the Index appears in the text in bold type to enable you to access the information rapidly.

Province code

Following the practice of the maps issued by Automóvil Club Argentina, a space within a name files before the latter A, so that “La Población” precedes “Laboulaye”.

Each place-name is followed by a two- or three-letter code representing the province in which the place is situated. These codes are printed below.

Principal references

Language of entries

The principal page reference for each town and city with a separate entry in the Travel Companion is given in bold type.

Spanish forms of name have been used throughout, not the English equivalent. For example, the form “Península Valdés” has been used, not “Valdés Peninsula”.

Geographic features in more than one province

Order of entries

When a feature such as a river or mountain chain runs through more than one province, a separate entry has been made for each province. For example, under the “Río Paraná”, which runs through or

Entries are given in the order of the English alphabet — that is to say, “Ch” and “Ll” are treated as they are in English and not in Spanish, and “ñ” is treated as if it were “n”.

Province codes used in the index BA Buenos Aires CAP Capital Federal (Buenos Aires City) CAT Catamarca CBA Córdoba CHA Chaco CHU Chubut COR Corrientes

ER Entre Ríos FOR Formosa JUJ Jujuy LAP La Pampa MIS Misiones MZA Mendoza NEU Neuquén RJA La Rioja RN Río Negro 1034

SAL Salta SCR Santa Cruz SDE Santiago del Estero SFE Santa Fe SJU San Juan SLU San Luis TDF Tierra del Fuego TUC Tucumán

INDEX Aluminé, NEU 392, 430 Map 393 Alvear, COR 919 Amaicha del Valle, TUC 752, 757, 758, 762, 779 Ambargasta, SDE 845 Ameghino, BA 235 Aminga, RJA 716, 718 Ampajango, CAT 753 Ampascachi, SAL 806 Añatuya, SDE 848, 870 Ancasti, CAT 728, 746 Ancastillo, CAT 728 Andacollo, NEU 395, 404 Andalgalá, CAT 728, 747 Angastaco La Vieja, SAL 783 Angastaco, SAL 783, 788, 810 Angualasto, SJU 678, 679, 683, 684 Anguinán, RJA 708 Anillaco, RJA 716, 718 Animaná, SAL 788 Anjullón, RJA 716, 718 Anquincila, CAT 728 Anta Muerta, TUC 757, 777 Antártida Argentina 599 Antofagasta de la Sierra, CAT 731, 737, 811 Antofalla, CAT 733 Apostóles, MIS 986, 990 Arauco, RJA 701 Area Natural Protegida La Azotea, ER 953 Arenas Verdes, BA 177 Argüello, CBA 275 Arias, CBA 338 Aristóbulo del Valle, MIS 991, 1004 Arizaro, SAL 801 Arrecifes, BA 235 Arroyito, CBA 338 Arroyito, NEU 415, 419 Arroyo Aldeco, SJU 681 Arroyo Alerce, RN 467 Arroyo Azul, BA 109 Arroyo Blanco, MZA 641 Arroyo Blanco, NEU 400 Arroyo Challhuaco, RN 466 Arroyo Chimiray, MIS 986 Arroyo Claromecó, BA 129 Arroyo Córdoba, NEU 464 Arroyo de las Cabeceras 681 Arroyo de los Paredones, CBA 252 Arroyo El Grande de la Quebrada, MZA 635 Arroyo Grande, MZA 662, 674 Arroyo Guillermo, RN 463 Arroyo Inca Cueva, JUJ 821

forms a border of several provinces, an entry appears for each.

Maps The black and white street maps of the major cities have been indexed under the subheading “Map”.

A Abra Blanca, JUJ 830

Abra de Infiernillo, TUC 753, 787 Abra del Acay, SAL 811 Abra del Gallo, SAL 811 Abra Muñano, SAL 801, 809 Abra Pampa, JUJ 818 Abra Santa Laura, SAL 807 Acheral, TUC 779 Achiras, CBA 303, 305 Aconquija, CAT 730 Adolfo González Chaves, BA 235 Agua Blanca, CAT 726 Agua Botada, MZA 643 Agua de Coneta, CAT 726 Agua de la Puerta, CAT 726 Agua de los Palos, CBA 256 Agua de Oro, CBA 306 Agua del Godo, SJU 680 Aguada Florencia, NEU 430 Aguaditas de San José, CAT 726 Aguaray, SAL 793, 813 Aguas Amarillas, CAT 731, 737 Aguas Blancas, SAL 791 Aguas Calientes, JUJ 836, 837 Aguas de Dionisio, CAT 726 Aguas Verdes, BA 198 Aguilares, TUC 780 Aimogasta, RJA 701 Alamito, CAT 725 Alba Posse, MIS 989, 1000, 1004 Albardón, SJU 678 Alberti, BA 235 Algarrobo del Aguila, SAL 351 Allen, RN 495 Almafuerte, CBA 248 Almagro, CAP 79 Alpa Corral, CBA 303, 305 Alpachiri, LAP 349 Alta Gracia, CBA 249 Map 251 Alto del Portezuelo, CAT 746 Alto Río Mayo, CHU 534 Alto Río Senguer, CHU 498, 516

1035

ARGENTINA Bañado La Estrella, FOR 887 Bañados de Añatuya, SDE 848 Bañados del Pantano, RJA 702 Baño Centenario, SJU 22 Baño de Higueritas, CAT 728 Baño del Indio, SJU 695 Baños de Azufre, MZA 643 Baños de Capiz, MZA 665 Baños del Zapallar, SLU 613 Baños La Laja, SJU 678 Baradero, BA 118 Map 120 Bardas Blancas, MZA 22, 632 Bariloche, RN 23, 78, 432, 445, 447, 465, 473, 481, 487 Maps 449, 451, 457 Barracas, CAP 81 Barranqueras, CHA 868, 877 Barreal, SJU 636, 676, 679, 680, 696 Batea Mahuida, NEU 395 Batungasta, CAT See Troya, CAT Beazley, SLU 615 Belén de Escobar, BA 236 Belén, CAT 730, 733 Belgrano, CAP 82 Belgrano, CBA See Villa General Belgrano, CBA Bell Ville, CBA 253 Bella Vista, BA 236 Bella Vista, COR 901 Bella Vista, SJU 683 Benegas, MZA 664 Benito Juárez, BA 236 Bernardo de Irigoyen, MIS 988, 992, 996, 1021, 1026 Bernardo Larroudé, LAP 343 Berrotarán, CBA 339 Bialet Massé, CBA 254, 257, 275 Boca de la Quebrada, TUC 757, 760 Boca de las Sierras, BA 111 Boca del Diablo, SCR 557 Bolívar, BA 236 Borde Alto del Payún, MZA 634 Boroa, CBA 313, 325 Bosque Alegre, CBA 252 Bosque Arrayanes, RN 464 Bosque Petrificado Carlos Darwin, MZA 662 Bosque Petrificado José Ormachea, CHU 507, 535 Bosque Petrificado Victor Szlapelis, CHU 507, 535, 536 Bragado, BA 121 Brazo Puerto Blest, RN 464 Buena Esperanza, SLU 628

Arroyo Jaguel Amarillo, MZA 643 Arroyo Las Leñas, MZA 641 Arroyo Las Mesillas, MZA 643 Arroyo Las Pircas, MZA 635 Arroyo López, RN 466 Arroyo Loro, ER 974 Arroyo Los Coihues, CHU 519 Arroyo Overo, RN 467 Arroyo Palmar, ER 974 Arroyo San Alberto, MZA 635 Arroyo Vaquerías, CBA 291 Arroyo Yabebiri, MIS 1023 Arroyos de la Pintada, MZA 669 Ascochinga, CBA 253, 282, 286 Atos Pampa, CBA 334 Atreuco, NEU 411 Auca Pan, NEU 411 Avellaneda, BA 235 Avellaneda, SFE 364 Ayacucho, BA 235 Azul, BA 108 Map 110

B

Bahía Anegada, BA 116, 117 Bahía Blanca, BA 111 Map 112 Bahía de Camarones, CHU 499 Bahía Encerrada, TDF 592 Bahía Onelli, SCR 557 Bahía Samborombón, BA 132 Bahía San Blas, BA 116, 127 Bahía San Julián, SCR 573, 574 Bahía Uruguay, SCR 572 Bajada Rahue, NEU 430 Bajo Caracoles, SCR 507, 546, 563, 569 Bajo de Gualicho, RN 487 Bajo de Santa Elena, RJA 708 Bajo de Véliz, SLU 623 Balcarce, BA 117 Balde, SLU 603, 615 Ballesteros, CBA 339 Balnearia, CBA 300 Balneario Bahía Rosas, RN 445 Balneario Costa Bonita, BA 183 Balneario El Cóndor, RN 494 Balneario El Palmar, SLU 614 Balneario El Salado, RN 489 Balneario Las Grutas, RN 485 Balneario Lobería, RN 494 Balneario Los Angeles, BA 183 Balneario Rada Tilly, CHU 502, 507 Balneario Utracán, LAP 345 Balvanera, CAP 79 Maps 53, 57 Bañado de Cautana, SLU 623

1036

INDEX Candelaría, MIS 1006, 1013 Candelaria, SLU 613 Candonga, CBA 307 Cañon Aguas Amarillas, CAT 731 Cañon Belén, CAT 733, 736 See Also Río Belén, CAT Cañon Chilca, CAT 731 Cañon del Atuel, MZA 634, 661, 670 See Also Río Atuel, MZA Canota- Monument, MZA 662 Cañuelas, BA 236 Capilla Constancia, CBA 331 Capilla del Monte, CBA 254, 278, 324 Capilla Vieja, CBA 334 Capillitas, CAT 731 Capioví, MIS 1022 Capitán Solari, CHA 871 Carapari, SAL 812 Carapunco, TUC 753, 765, 767 Carhué, BA 123 Cariló, BA 190 Carlos Casares, BA 236 Carmen de Areco, BA 236 Carmen de Patagones, BA 125, 489 Map 126 Carolina, SLU 603, 622 Carpincho, CHA 884 Carrizal, RJA 705 Casa Bamba, CBA 257 Casa de Piedra, TUC 757 Casa Pava, COR 929 Casabindo, JUJ 819 Casangate, RJA 700 Cascada de la Virgen Misionera, RN 478 Cascada de la Virgen, RN 463 Cascada de los Cántaros, RN 465 Cascada Escondida, RN 478 Cascada Los Alerces, RN 464, 482 Cascada Mallín, RN 478 Cascada Olvidada, SLU 610 Cascadas de Olaen, CBA 291 Cascadas de Río Pipo, TDF 598 Cascada Río Blanco, RN 466 Caseros, BA 236 Casilla Negra, CBA 325 Casira, JUJ 835 Caspalá, JUJ 836 Castaño Viejo, SJU 682 Castaño, SJU 679 Castelli, BA 236 Castelli, CHA See Juan José Castelli, CHA Catamarca Province 724 Catamarca, CAT 724, 738 Maps 741, 742

Buena Vista, CAT 726 Buenos Aires Province 106 Buenos Aires, CAP 38 Map 40 Burruyaco, TUC 780

C

Caballito, CAP 83 Cabo Blanco, SCR 545 Cabo Curioso, SCR 575 Cabo Dos Bahías, CHU 507 Cabra Corral, SAL 806 Cabure-I, MIS 993, 1021 Cachari, BA 236 Cacheuta, MZA 634, 636, 661 Cachi Adentro, SAL 784 Cachi, SAL 782, 784, 788, 810 Cachipampa, SAL 782 Cafayate, SAL 758, 767, 786, 807, 810 Map 787 Caimancito, JUJ 836, 837 Cajón del Río Mendoza, MZA 635, 661 Cajón Grande, MZA 643 Calafate, SCR See El Calafate, SCR Calera, CBA 275 Caleta Córdoba, CHU 502 Caleta de los Loros, RN 446, 494 Caleta Olivia, SCR 545, 547 Map 549 Caleta Valdés, CHU 530 Calilegua, JUJ 831 Calingasta, SJU 682, 696 Camarones, CHU 499, 507, 539 Map 500 Campamento Arrequintín, SJU 678 Campana, BA 121 Campitos, CBA 299 Campo Arenal, CAT 736 Campo de Cabañares, RN 479 Campo de Pulmari, NEU 395 Campo del Cielo, CHA 875 Campo Grande, MIS 991 Campo Quijano, SAL 795, 808, 809 Campo Viera, MIS 1004 Campos de los Pozos, CAT 737 Cañada Honda, SLU 604, 622 Cañada Larga, CBA 299 Cañadón de la Escarcha, RJA 720 Cañadón de las Bandurrias, SCR 572 Cañadón de las Ostras, RN 487 Canal Beagle, TDF 586, 591, 592, 596 Canal de Acceso, SFE 376 Canal Upsala, SCR 557 Canals, CBA 339 Cancha Carrera, SCR 584

1037

ARGENTINA Cerro Dos Bahías, CHU 499 Cerro El Calvario, BA 222 Cerro El Cuadrado, CBA 288, 291 Cerro El Manchao, CAT 749 Cerro El Mojón, CAT 736, 737 Cerro El Peñon, SLU 623 Cerro El Sapo, SJU 697 Cerro El Volcán, SCR 569 Cerro Fitz Roy, SCR 558, 559, 566 Cerro Hilario, SJU 682, 696 Cerro Inca Huasi, SAL 790 Cerro La Blanca, BA 218 Cerro La Movediza, BA 222 Cerro La Yarreta, CAT 736 Cerro Laguna Blanca, CAT 737 Cerro Las Gemelas, CBA 256 Cerro Lindero, CBA 253 Cerro López, RN 461, 464, 466 Cerro Los Gigantes, CBA 299 Cerro Macante, SAL 782 Cerro Malho, NEU 430 Cerro Manchao, CAT 743 Cerro Martial, TDF 592 Cerro Matrún, MZA 643 Cerro Mercedario, SJU 680, 681 Cerro Mogol, MZA 646 Cerro Morado, CAT 736 Cerro Moros, TUC 760 Cerro Nahuel Pan, CHU 510 Cerro Negro, LAP 341 Cerro Negro, RJA 702 Cerro Ñireco, RN 462 Cerro Nuñorco, TUC 767 Cerro Olivia, TDF 586, 591 Cerro Otto, RN 447, 461, 465 Cerro Pan de Azúcar, CBA 257, 275, 277, 314, 324 Cerro Payún, MZA 634, 646 Cerro Pencales, CBA 278 Cerro Perito Moreno, RN 475 Cerro Pintado, CAT 753 Cerro Punta del Marqués, CHU 502 Cerro Punta Piedras, CHU 502 Cerro Quelli Mahuida, NEU 421 Cerro Quijada, SLU 622 Cerro Retana, SLU 621, 623 Cerro San Bernardo, SAL 794, 807 Cerro San Juan, MZA 672 Cerro San Lorenzo, SCR 546, 563 Cerro Santa Ana, CHU 497 Cerro Sololasta, SLU 622 Cerro Sosneado, MZA 671 Cerro Steffen, CHU 518 Cerro Tinaja, SLU 623 Cerro Tiro, CAT 735 Cerro Tomolasta, SLU 603

Cataratas del Iguazú, MIS 78, 986, 988, 1014, 1020 Catinazo, RJA 704 Catriel, RN 467 Catriló, LAP 360 Catritre, NEU 428 Caucete, SJU 678, 695 Caverna de las Brujas, MZA 645, 646, 671 Caviahue, NEU 391, 397 Cayastá, SFE 376, 382 Centenario, NEU 414 Centro de Deportes Valdelén, SCR 584 Cerro Abanico, NEU 428 Cerro Aconcagua, MZA 632, 634, 639, 661, 696 Cerro Agua Hedionda, SLU 623 Cerro Alto de la Mina, TUC 779 Cerro Alto del Rey, TUC 762 Cerro Alumbre, SLU 605 Cerro Amarillo, JUJ 837 Cerro Argentino, RN 466 Cerro Aspero, SLU 610 Cerro Bandurias, NEU 428 Cerro Barrosa, SLU 626 Cerro Bayo, NEU 391, 435 Cerro Bola, MZA 671 Cerro Bonete Chico, RJA 699 Cerro Bonete, RJA 720 Cerro Bravard, MZA 672 Cerro Campanario, RN 465 Cerro Castor, TDF 597 Cerro Catedral, RN 463, 464, 465, 466, 468 Cerro Centinela, JUJU 832 Cerro Champaqui, CBA 246, 295, 310, 328, 331, 337 Cerro Chañi, JUJ 830 Cerro Chapelco, NEU 391, 400, 422, 464 Cerro Chenque, CHU 501, 507 Cerro Chileno, RN 466 Cerro Ciénaga Grande, SAL 786 Cerro Colorado, CBA 279 Cerro Colorado, SJU 685 Cerro Condor Huasi, TUC 759 Cerro Cristal, SCR 558 Cerro de Incahuasi, CAT 750 Cerro de la Batería, NEU 406 Cerro de la Caballada, BA 127 Cerro de la Cruz, RJA 715 Cerro de la Gloria, MZA 660, 661 Cerro de la Oveja, SLU 610 Cerro de la Ventana, BA 116 Cerro de los Siete Colores, JUJ 830 Cerro de Monje, MIS 1025 Cerro del Bolsón, TUC 756, 761

1038

INDEX Colón, BA 237 Colón, ER 935, 937 Map 939 Colonia Alberdi, MIS 1003 Colonia Barón, LAP 360 Colonia Carlos Pellegrini, COR 920, 928 Colonia Carolina, COR 914 Colonia Caroya, CAT 339 Colonia Caroya, CBA 281 Colonia Elisa, CHA 871 Colonia General Fotheringham, FOR 895 Colonia Sarmiento, CHU See Sarmiento, CHU Colonia Suiza, RN 465, 482 Comandante Fontana, FOR 889 Comandante Luis Piedra Buena, SCR 550 Map 551 Comodoro Rivadavia, CHU 497, 501, 534 Map 503 Complejo Hidroeléctrico Yacyretá Apipé , COR 916, 918, 1013 Complejo Invernal Perito Moreno, RN 478 Complejo Zárate–Brazo Largo, ER 982 Concarán, SLU 604 Concepción de la Ramada, TUC 757, 759 Concepción de la Sierra, MIS 988 Concepción del Bermejo, CHA 868, 875 Concepción del Uruguay, ER 940, 941 Map 943 Concepción, CAT 744 Concordia, ER 935, 946 Map 947 Cóndor Huasi, CAT 725, 736 Confluencia, NEU 463, 464, 465 Constitución, CAP 85 Map 49 Control Fronterizo de San Sebastián, XII 24 Copacabana, CBA 279 Copahue, NEU 397 Map 398 Copina, CBA 325 Corcovado, CHU 24, 507, 516, 541 Cordillera de Collanguil, SJU 697 Cordillera de la Totora, SJU 696 Cordillera del Viento Este, NEU 396 Cordillera del Viento, NEU 395, 396, 404 Córdoba Province 244 Córdoba, CBA 246, 257, 857 Maps 258, 263, 264 Cordón de Curimil, NEU 442

Cerro Torrecillas, CHU 521 Cerro Tres Picos, CHU 473, 501 Cerro Tronador, RN 462, 463, 464, 466, 467, 481, 482 Cerro Tupungato, MZA 636, 674 Cerro Uritorco, CBA 255, 256, 278 Cerro Veladero, RJA 700 Cerro Ventisquero, RN 463 Cerro Zapaleri, JUJ 817 Cerros Colorados, RN 480 Cerros del Infiernillo, RJA 720 Cerros del Rosario, SLU 605 Chacabuco, BA 236 Chacharramendi, LAP 345 Cha-Chin, NEU 428 Chaco Province 867 Chacra de los Barriales, MZA 666 Chajarí, ER 935 Chalicán, JUJ 831 Chamical, RJA 702 Chancani, CBA 313 Chaquiago, CAT 729, 730 Charadai, CHA 872 Charata, CHA 872 Chascomús, BA 127 Chepes Viejo, RJA 703 Chepes, RJA 703 Chicligasta, TUC 778 Chicoana, SAL 783, 785, 786, 806 Chilecito, RJA 699, 703, 715, 720 Map 704 Chillar, BA 236 Chimpay, RN 495 Chivilcoy, BA 129, 236 Choele-Choel, RN 470, 487 Cholila, CHU 463, 500, 516 Chorrillos, SAL 801, 809 Chos Malal, NEU 402 Map 403 Choya Ojo Dulce, CAT 731 Chubut Province 496 Chumbicha, CAT 702, 738, 743, 747 Chuquis, RJA 716, 717 Cinco Dedos, BA 118 Cinco Saltos, RN 471 Cipolletti, RN 471 Circuito Chico, RN 482 Ciudad Perico, JUJ 807 Claromecó, BA 129 Map 130 Clorinda, FOR 886, 887 Cochinoca, JUJ 819 Coctaca, JUJ 821 Colalao del Valle, TUC 758, 788 Colegiales, CAP 84 Colo Michi-có, NEU 396

1039

ARGENTINA Cuipán, RJA 719 Cumandai, MIS 1025 Cumbres de Achala, CBA 253, 292, 293, 307, 325, 330 Cumbres de Cabra Horco, TUC 778 Cumbres de Calchaquies, TUC 756, 763, 765 Cumbres de Gaspar, CBA 325 Cumbres de Narvaez, TUC 760 Cumbres de San Javier, TUC 778 Cumbres de Santa Ana, TUC 760 Cumbres de Santa Bárbara, TUC 763 Cura Fierro, CAT 726 Curruhué, NEU 406 Curuzú Cuatiá, COR 909 Cutral-Có, NEU 405

Cordón de Esquel, CHU 510, 511 Cordón del Colorado, MZA 636 Cordón del Marmolejo, MZA 672 Cordón del Plata, MZA 638, 662 Cordón del Portillo, MZA 672 Coronel Dorrego, BA 237 Coronel Moldes, SAL 806 Coronel Pringles, BA 237 Coronel Suárez, BA 237 Coronel Vidal, BA 150, 211 Corpus, MIS 986, 989, 1024 Corralito, TUC 760 Correntoso, RN 462 Corrientes Province 898 Corrientes, COR 884, 902 Map 903 Cosquín, CBA 246, 275, 314, 324 Costa Araujo, MZA 662 Costa Bonita, BA 177 Crespo, ER 951 Cruz Chica, CBA 283, 286 Cruz de Paramillos, MZA 662 Cruz de Piedra, SLU (lake) 624 Cruz de Piedra, SLU (town) 624 Cruz del Eje, CBA 277, 279 Cruz Grande, CBA 286 Cuchi Corral, CBA 286 Cuchilla Nevada, CBA 324 Cuchillo Curá, NEU 441 Cuchillos, ER 934 Cuesta de Belén, CAT 730 Cuesta de Cerro de Oro, SLU 610 Cuesta de Escoipe, SAL 785 Cuesta de Huaco, RJA 716, 717 Cuesta de Lipan, JUJ 830 Cuesta de los Terneros, MZA 661, 669 Cuesta de Miranda, RJA 700, 707, 715 Cuesta de Pasos Malos, SLU 610 Cuesta de Zapata, CAT 735 Cuesta del Cebillar, SAL 808 Cuesta del Clavillo, TUC 730, 757, 760, 761 Cuesta del Lajar, SAL 808 Cuesta del Obispo, SAL 782, 785, 806, 810 Cuesta del Portezuelo, CAT 746 Cuesta del Totoral, CAT 751 Cuesta El Aguay, SCR 582 Cuesta El Mogote Bayo, SLU 610 Cuesta La Rinconada, NEU 430 Cueva de las Manos, SCR 546, 569 Cueva del Chacho, RJA 715 Cueva del Toro, BA 217 Cueva Grande del Arroyo Feo, SCR 546 Cuevas del Gualicho, SCR 546 Cuevas Maragatas, BA 127

D

Daireaux, BA 237 Déan Funes, CBA 278 Delta, BA 78 Desagüe de los Colorados, RJA 708, 715 Desagüe del Río Salado, RJA 702 Deseado, MIS 993 Diamante, ER 952 Difunta Correa, SJU 695, 696 Dique Agua de Toro, MZA 671 Dique Campo Alegre, SAL 807 Dique Celestino Gelsi, TUC 757, 777 Dique Cipolletti, MZA 659, 662 Dique Collagasta, CAT 748 Dique Cruz del Eje, CBA 257 Dique del Fuerte, BA 222 Dique El Carrizal, MZA 634, 635, 662, 663, 664 Dique El Molino, TUC 760 Dique El Nihuil, MZA 634, 635, 661, 666, 670 Dique El Tigre, MZA 671 Dique Escaba, TUC 760, 779 Dique Ezequiel Ramos Mejía, RN 487 Dique Florentino Ameghino, CHU 497, 518, 529 Dique Ibizca, CAT 728 Dique José Ignacio de la Roza, SJU See Gran Presa de Embalse Quebrada de Ullum, SJU Dique La Ciénaga, SAL 807 Dique La Falda, CBA 291 Dique las Pirquitas, CAT 747 Dique Los Alazanes, CBA 256 Dique Los Alisos, JUJ 841 Dique Los Cauquenes, SJU 677, 679, 687, 688 Dique Los Molinos, CBA 286, 334 Dique Los Sauces, RJA 715, 716

1040

INDEX El Portezuelo de la Laguna Brava, RJA 721 El Potrerillo, SAL 808 El Potrerillo, TUC 757, 760 El Potrero de Santa Lucia, CAT 731 El Quebrachal, Salta 814 El Quemado, JUJ 831 El Remanso, BA 166 El Rincón, RJA 720 El Rincón, SLU 610 El Rodeo, CAT 742, 746, 748 El Rosario, CAT 726 El Sauzal, CHA 869 El Sauzalito, CHA 869 El Shincal, CAT 734 El Soberbio, MIS 996 El Sosneado, MZA 671 El Tala, SAL 808 El Talar, SLU 611 El Volcán, SLU 624 El Zapato, CBA 255 Eldorado, MIS 994, 1004, 1021, 1026 Elortondo, SFE 383 Embajador Martini, LAP 360 Embalse Campo Alegre, SAL 806 Embalse Cerro Pelado, CBA 306 Embalse Cruz del Eje, CBA 277 Embalse del Río Tercero, CBA 306, 327, 331, 336 Embalse Escaba, TUC 757 Embalse La Florida, SLU 621, 622, 624 Embalse Los Molinos, CBA 252, 325, 331 Embalse Piedras Moras, CBA 306 Embalse Ramos Mexia, NEU 419 Embalse Río Hondo, SDE 845, 858, 865 Embalse Río Hondo, TUC 778 Embalse Salto Grande, ER 935, 938, 946, 953 Embalse, CBA 280 Embarcación, SAL 791 Empedrado, COR 910 Encón, SJU 662 Ensenada, BA 140 Entre Ríos Province 933 Epulafquen, NEU 411 Epu-Lauquen, NEU 396 Epuyén, CHU 509, 516 Escaba de Abajo, TUC 761 Escaba de Arriba, TUC 761 Escoipe, SAL 810 Esperanza, SCR 582 Esperanza, SFE 362, 382 Espinillo, FOR 888, 889 Esquel, CHU 23, 462, 497, 510 Maps 510, 513 Esquina, COR 911

Dique Potrero de Los Funes, SLU 622 Dique Punto Unido 358 Dique Río Tercero, CBA 310 Dique San Jerónimo, CBA 286 Dique San Roque, CBA 275 Dique Valle Grande, MZA 661, 671 Doblas, LAP 349 Dolavon, CHU 497, 508, 518 Dolores, BA 132, 237 Don Torcuato, BA 237 Dos de Mayo, MIS 994 Dos Ríos, CBA 325

E

Eduardo Castex, LAP 343 El Alamito, CAT 729 El Alisal, SAL 801 El Alto, CAT 747 El Anfiteatro, SAL 807 El Antigal, SAL 809 El Bolsón, RN 445, 463, 465, 473, 522 Map 474 El Cadillal, JUJ 807 El Calafate, SCR 552, 582 Map 555 El Candado, SAL 809 El Carmen, JUJ 841 El Carmen, SAL 807 El Carril, SAL 810 El Carrizal, CAT 726 El Cebillar, SAL 808 El Chalet, CHU 497 El Chaltén, SCR 507, 558, 559 Map 560 El Chiflón, RJA 715 El Cholar, NEU 404 El Chorrito, CBA 286 El Churcal, SAL 790 El Clavillo, CAT 731 El Cocal, COR 913 El Cocalito, COR 913 El Colorado, FOR 895 El Cóndor, CBA 253, 299, 325 El Cóndor, RN 490 El Eje, CAT 736 El Fraile, SAL 807 El Hoyo de Epuyén, CHU 477, 508, 522 El Huecú, NEU 405 El Humazo, NEU 396 El Jumeal, CAT 726 El Maitén, CHU 509, 510 El Mollar, TUC 766, 767 El Obelisco, SAL 807 El Peñón, CAT 732, 733 El Peralito, MZA 634

1041

ARGENTINA General Alvear, MIS 1003 General Alvear, MZA 639 General Arenales, BA 237 General Belgrano, BA 237 General Cabrera, CBA 303 General Deheza, CBA 303 General Güemes, SAL 795, 808 General J. de San Martín, CHA 895 General La Madrid, BA 237 General Lavalle, BA 131, 203 General Levalle, CBA 292 General M. Belgrano, FOR 888, 889 General Madariaga, BA 237 General Pico, LAP 342, 346 Map 347 General Pinedo, CHA 872 General Pinto, BA 237 General Roca, RN 478 General San Martín, LAP 360 General Sarmiento, BA 238 General Villegas, BA 238 Glaciar Agassiz, SCR 557 Glaciar Alerce, RN 467 Glaciar Castaño Overo, RN 467 Glaciar Cerro Torre, SCR 561, 566 Glaciar Cuerno, MZA 634 Glaciar Gussfeldt, MZA 634 Glaciar Horcones, MZA 634 Glaciar Huemul, SCR 562 Glaciar Inferior, MZA 634 Glaciar Martial, TDF 597, 599 Glaciar Negro, RN 464, 466 Glaciar Onelli, SCR 557 Glaciar Perito Moreno, SCR 545, 558, 566 Glaciar Torrecillas, CHU 521 Glaciar Tronador, RN 466, 482 Glaciar Upsala, SCR 557, 566 Glaciar Viedma, SCR 566 Gobernador Costa, CHU 516, 518 Gobernador Gordillo, RJA Chamical, RJA 702 Gobernador Gregores, SCR 562, 565, 575 Gobernador Ing. Virasoro, COR 929 Golfo Nuevo, CHU 522, 525, 529 Golfo San Jorge, CHU 501 Golfo San Jorge, SCR 545 Golfo San José, CHU 529 Golfo San Matías, RN 445, 484, 485, 488, 489, 494 Goya, COR 909, 912 Gran Laguna Salada, CHU 497 Gran Presa de Embalse Quebrada de Ullum, SJU 677, 679, 690, 696

Estancia El Estierro, CHA 875 Estancia Facundo, CHU 534 Estancia La Humada, LAP 351 Estancia La Malvina, LAP 352 Estancia La María, SCR 546, 574 Estancia Las Chilcas, SCR 569 Esteros del Iberá, COR 899, 900, 918 Estrecho del Magallanes, TDF 586

F

Falda Ciénaga, CAT 725, 737 Famatina, RJA 704, 709 Farellón Negro, CAT 730, 736, 737 Federación, ER 935, 953 Federal, ER 954 Fiambalá, CAT 747, 749, 755 Fitz Roy, SCR 548 Florida Blanca, SCR 575 Fontana, CHA 869 Formosa Province 886 Formosa, FOR 887, 888, 890 Map 892 Fortín Guañacos, NEU 396 Fortín Huechu Lauquen, NEU 411 Fortín Malal-Hue, MZA 645 Fortin Mamuy Malal, NEU 411 Fortín Mayo, NEU 430 Fortín Soledad, FOR 895 Fortuna, SLU 629 Frías, SDE 848 Fuente de Cura Fierro, CAT 737 Fuerte Cobos, SAL 807 Fuerte de Santa Bárbara, JUJ 832 Fuerte Fotheringham, FOR 887 Fuerte San Carlos, MZA 664, 665 Fuerte San Rafael, MZA 666, 671 Fuerte San Serapio Martir del Arroyo Azul, BA See Azul, BA Fuerte Santiago Sánchez, COR 910 Fundación San Roque, CBA 291

G

Gaimán, CHU 497, 517 Map 517 Gancedo, CHA 875 Garayalde, CHU 499 Garganta del Diablo, JUJ 840 Garganta del Diablo, MIS 1021 Garganta del Diablo, MZA 662 Garganto del Diablo, RN 466 Garupá, MIS 1013 Gato Colorado, SFE 387 General Acha, LAP 342, 344, 352 Map 344 General Alvear, BA 237 1042

INDEX Ingeniero Luiggi, LAP 360 Ingenio Santa Rosa, TUC 779 Intendente Alvear, LAP 349 Intihuasi, SLU 603, 604, 622 Intiyaco, CBA 334 Iriondo, SFE 387 Iruya, SAL 821 Ischigualasto, SJU 715 Isla Parehá, MIS 989 Isla Arce, CHU 499 Isla Ballesteros, BA 206 Isla Caraguatay, MIS 999, 1000 Isla Centinela, NEU 464 Isla Chaffers, SCR 572 Isla Choele-Choel Grande, NEU 470 Isla Curuzú Chali, ER 965 Isla de los Césares, BA 117 Isla de los Pájaros, CHU 529 Isla de los Pájaros, RN 489 Isla de los Pájaros, SCR 572 Isla de los Pingüinos, SCR 575 Isla de los Riachos, BA 117 Isla del Cerrito, CHA 878, 884, 924 Isla Deseada, SCR 580 Isla El Timbo, SFE 973 Isla Flamenco, BA 117 Isla Gama, BA 117 Isla Garcia, BA 1012 Isla Jabalí, BA 116, 117 Isla La Pastora, RN 489 Isla Martín Garcia, CAP 77 Isla Monte León, SCR 576 Isla Natural Cambacua, ER 942 Isla Paulina, BA 140 Isla Pavón, SCR 552 Isla Pindo-I, MIS 1024 Isla San Martín, MIS 1020, 1021 Isla Santa Teresita, NEU 428 Isla Vasco, BA 132 Isla Victoria, NEU 437, 464, 465, 482, 483 Islas Lechiguanas, BA 206 Islote Lobos, RN 489 Ita Enramada, FOR 889 Itá Ibaté, COR 914 Itatí, COR 909, 915 Itico, TUC 760 Ituzaingó, COR 909, 916 Map 917

Gran Salto de Moconá, MIS 986, 988, 997 Gruta de la Virgen del Valle, CAT 736, 746 Gruta India, MIS 1023 Guachipas, SAL 795, 808 Guadalupe, SFE 382 Gualeguay, ER 955 Gualeguaychú, ER 935, 957 Map 959 Guaminí, BA 133 Guanacache, SLU 611 Guanacoyacu, CAT 737 Guanchín, RJA 708 Guasayán, SDE 866 Guatraché, LAP 348 Guaviraví, COR 919 Guayapa, RJA 708, 716 Güer Aike, SCR 552

H

Henderson, BA 238 Hermoso Campo, CHA 872 Hernandarias, ER 962 Herradura, FOR 895 Hinojo, BA 184 Hipólito Yrigoyen, SCR 546 Hipólito Yrigoyen, SLU 622, 624 Hormiguero, COR 929 Hotel Las Horquetas, SCR 563 Hoyo de Epuyén, CHU See El Hoyo de Epuyén, CHU Hua Hum, NEU 424, 430 Huacalera, JUJ 819, 831 Huacle, CBA 330 Huaco, RJA 717 Huaco, SJU 687, 696 Hualfín, CAT 736 Hualinchay, TUC 763 Hualtarán, SLU 611 Huerta Grande, CBA 288, 291 Huinca Renancó, CBA 281 Huingancó, NEU 396 Humahuaca, JUJ 816, 819, 831 Hunquillal, RJA 700

I

Ibatín, TUC 779 Ibicuy, ER 962, 963 Iglesia, SJU 677, 678 Iguazú Falls, MIS See Catarates del Iguazú, MIS Incachuli, SAL 811 Incacueva, JUJ 821 Ingeniero Guillermo N Juárez, FOR 896 Ingeniero Jacobacci, RN 479, 487

J

Jagüé, RJA 699, 721 Jardín América, MIS 997 Jesús María, CBA 253, 281 José de San Martín, CHU 518 Juan B Alberdi, TUC 757, 760 Juan José Castelli, CHA 869

1043

ARGENTINA La Lucila del Mar, BA 198 La Lucila, BA 238 La Madrid, TUC 757 La Merced, CAT 746, 750 La Merced, SAL 789 La Ovejeria, TUC 764 La Paisanita, CBA 252 La Pampa Province 341 La Paya, CAT 726 La Paz, ER 963 Map 964 La Pelada, TUC 765 La Plata, BA 108, 135 Maps 136, 138 La Población, CBA 328 La Poma, SAL 784, 786, 811 La Puerta, CAT 742 La Punta, SDE 847 La Puntilla, CAT 731 La Puntilla, RJA 702 La Quebradita, TUC 767 La Quiaca, JUJ 552, 832 Map 833 La Ramada, TUC 780 La Rinconada, NEU 430, 464 La Rioja Province 698 La Rioja, RJA 699, 707, 709 Map 710 La Selva de Montiel, ER 937 La Serranita, CBA 252 La Silleta, CAT 743 La Toma, SLU 605, 622 La Totora, SLU 605 La Viña, CAT 751 Laboulaye, CBA 292 Lago Aluminé, NEU 394, 395 Lago Amutui Quimei, CHU 541 Lago Argentino, SCR 507, 545, 552, 557, 558, 566 Lago Azara, SCR 565 Lago Azul, SCR 582 Lago Belgrano, SCR 562, 563, 565, 566 Lago Blanco, CHU 534 Lago Buenos Aires, SCR 507, 564, 566, 569 Lago Burmeister, SCR 563, 565, 566 Lago Cardiel, SCR 562 Lago Caviahue, NEU 398, 400 Lago Cholila, CHU 500, 501 Lago Cisne, CHU 521 Lago Colhué Huapi, CHU 497, 535 Lago Correntoso, NEU 437, 465, 482 Lago Cruz de Piedra, SLU 603 Lago del Desierto, SCR 559, 561 Lago El Mollar, TUC 779 Lago Epecuén, BA 123

Juárez, FOR See Ingeniero Guillermo N Juárez, FOR Jujuy Province 815 Jujuy, JUJ 807, 809, 810, 815, 822 Maps 824, 825 Julia Dufour, SCR 583 Junín de los Andes, NEU 406, 432, 464 Map 408 Junín, BA 133 Map 134 Justo Daract, SLU 627

K

Kaikén, TDF 591

L

La Adela, LAP 360, 483 La Aldea, CHU 534 La Angostura, CHU 518 La Angostura, NEU 395 La Angostura, TUC 779 La Arboleda, MZA 662 La Arenilla, SLU 622 La Banda, SDE 850, 856 La Banderita, TUC 761 La Baquera, SAL 807 La Boca, CAP 85 Map 43 La Caldera, SAL 806, 807 La Calera, CBA 257 La Candelaria, MIS 986 La Carlota, CBA 282 La Cascada, CBA 314 La Catarata, CHU 509 La Chilca, CAT 731 La Ciénaga, CAT 736, 737 La Ciénaga, JUJ 830 La Cocha, TUC 761, 779 La Colpa, CAT 726, 737 La Cruz, COR 918 La Cumbre, CBA 246, 253, 278, 282, 283, 324 Map 285 La Cumbrecita, CBA 286, 325, 334 La Estanzuela, SLU 612 La Falda, CBA 246, 287, 301, 324 La Florida, SLU 622 La Francia, CBA 339 La Gerónima, SCR 558 La Greda, RJA 705 La Hachera, CHA 869 La Hoya, CHU 497, 510, 511 La Hoyada, CAT 753 La Huerta de Huachi, SJU 688 La Lobería, CHU 530 1044

INDEX Lago Rivadavia, CHU 501, 516, 520 Lago Roca, RN 482 Lago Roca, SCR 558 Lago Roca, TDF 598 Lago Rucachoroi, NEU 395 Lago San Felipe, SLU 626 Lago San Martín, SCR 559 Lago San Roque, CBA 246, 254, 257, 275, 299, 315, 325 Lago Situación, CHU 520 Lago Steffen, RN 463 Lago Torre, SCR 561, 566 Lago Traful, NEU 432, 438, 465 Lago Tromen (north), NEU 391, 404 Lago Tromen (south), NEU 391, 406, 410, 411 Lago Valle Grande, MZA 635, 666, 669 Lago Verde, CHU 514, 521 Lago Viedma, SCR 552, 558, 566 Lago Villarino, RN 482 Lago Volcán, SCR 565 Lagos Picos, CHU 518 Laguna Achacosa, NEU 399 Laguna Adela, BA 127 Laguna Blanca, CAT 737 Laguna Blanca, FOR 889 Laguna Blanca, MZA 645 Laguna Brava, BA 118 Laguna Brava, CBA 314 Laguna Brava, RJA 700 Laguna Brava, SLU 626 Laguna Campos, NEU 396 Laguna Carachipampa, CAT 733 Laguna Carri-Lauquen, RN 479 Laguna Chascomús, BA 127 Laguna Chis-Chis, BA 127 Laguna Comodoro, JUJ 830 Laguna de Brealitos, SAL 791 Laguna de Gómez, BA 133, 135 Laguna de la Niña Encantada, MZA 642, 643, 645, 646, 671 Laguna de Lobos, BA 140 Laguna de los Cisnes, SCR 558 Laguna de los Horcones, MZA 639 Laguna de Pocho, CBA 325 Laguna de Rodeo, JUJ 830 Laguna de Volcán, JUJ 831 Laguna del Chancho, NEU 397 Laguna del Monte, BA 133 Laguna del Plesiosauro, CHU 509 Laguna del Valle Hermoso, MZA 642 Laguna Desaguadero, JUJ 830 Laguna Don Tomás, LAP 352 Laguna Frías, RN 464 Laguna Grande, SCR 548, 549 Laguna Guatraché, LAP 348

Lago Epulafquen, NEU 391, 411 Lago Epuyén, CHU 473, 478, 510 Lago Escondido, RN 482 Lago Escondido, SCR 562, 565 Lago Escondido, TDF 591, 592, 599 Lago Espejo, NEU 432, 437 Lago Fagnano, TDF 591, 592, 599 Lago Falkner, NEU 432 Lago Falkner, RN 482 Lago Fontana, CHU 499, 516, 534 Lago Frías, RN 465, 483 Lago Frías, SCR 558 Lago Futalaufquen, CHU 497, 514, 516, 520, 521 Lago General Vintter, CHU 518, 534 Lago Guillelmo, RN 463 Lago Gutiérrez, RN 445, 462 Lago Hermoso, RN 482 Lago Huata Hue, RN 463 Lago Huechulafquen, NEU 391, 407, 411 Lago Ibizca, CAT 728 Lago La Angostura, TUC 765 Lago La Plata, CHU 499, 516 Lago La Viña, CBA 292, 330, 331 Lago Lacar, NEU 23, 400, 402 Lago Lácar, NEU 422, 423 Lago Lezama, CHU 516 Lago los Moscos, RN 482 Lago Machonico, RN 482 Lago Mascardi, RN 445, 463, 482 Lago Melincue, SFE 383, 384 Lago Meliquina, NEU 432, 464 Lago Meliquina, RN 482 Lago Menéndez, CHU 521 Lago Mogote, SCR 565 Lago Moquehue, NEU 394, 395 Lago Moreno, RN 465 Lago Musters, CHU 497, 534, 535 Lago Nahuel Huapi, NEU 391, 432, 435 Lago Nahuel Huapi, RN 445, 447, 463, 464, 465, 482 Lago Nansen, SCR 565 Lago Nonthué, NEU 428 Lago Ñorquinco, NEU 395 Lago Onelli, SCR 557 Lago Paimún, NEU 391, 406, 407, 411 Lago Pellegrini, CHU 516 Lago Península, SCR 565 Lago Piedras Moras, CBA 306 Lago Posadas, SCR 546, 547, 563 Lago Puelo National Park, CHU 497 Lago Puelo, CHU 465, 477 Lago Pueyrredón, SCR 507, 546 Lago Pulmari, NEU 395 Lago Quillén, NEU 395

1045

ARGENTINA Las Flores, BA 238 Las Flores, SJU 697 Las FLores, SJU 683 Las Golondrinas, CHU 522 Las Grutas, RN See Balneario Las Grutas, RN Las Heras, SCR 547 Las Higueras, MZA 662 Las Hornillas, SJU 680 Las Horquetas, SCR 562, 563 Las Juntas, CAT 743, 746 Las Lajas, NEU 439, 441 Las Lajitas, Salta 814 Las Leñas, MZA 632, 640, 643, 645, 661, 671 Las Lomitas, FOR 896 Las Maquinas, NEU 400 Las Maquinitas, NEU 400 Las Maravillas, CBA 299 Las Margueritas, CHU 534 Las Ñalcas, RN 466 Las Olletas, NEU 396 Las Ovejas, NEU 396 Las Padrecitas, RJA 715 Las Palmas, CBA 313, 325 Las Pircas, MZA 662 Las Rabonas, CBA 292, 330 Las Tacanas, TUC 763 Las Tapias, CBA 328, 330 Las Toninas, BA 133, 200 Las Varillas, CBA 308, 339 Las Víboras, CHA 875 Las Víboras, SAL 782 Lavalle, MZA 662 Leandro N Alem, MIS 998, 1004 Ledesma, JUJ 836 León, JUJ 830 Leones, CBA 339 Libertador General San Martín, JUJ 817, 831, 836 Libertador General San Martín, SLU 606 Lincoln, BA 238 Lipán, JUJ 817 Llampa, CAT 726 Llano Blanco, MZA 645, 646 Llao Llao, RN 465, 482 Llullaillaco, SAL 782 Lobería, BA 238 Lobos, BA 140 Map 142 Loglog, NEU 423 Loma Blanca, RJA 717 Loma Rica, CAT 726, 753 Londres, CAT 734, 735, 738 Loreto, MIS 929, 986, 988, 1013, 1024 Loro Huasi, CAT 750

Laguna Guayatayoc, JUJ 817, 819 Laguna Hualcupen, NEU 399 Laguna Iberá, COR 920, 928 Laguna La Alumbrera, CAT 733 Laguna La Arocena, LAP 348 Laguna La Ballena, BA 173 Laguna La Brea, JUJU 837 Laguna La Paraguaya, BA 124 Laguna La Salada Grande, BA 194 Laguna Larga, SCR 562 Laguna Las Encanadas, BA 214 Laguna Limpia, CHA 871 Laguna Llancanelo, MZA 632, 643, 645, 646 Laguna Los Robles, TUC 780 Laguna Mar Chiquita (near Junín), BA 133 Laguna Mar Chiquita, BA 135, 233 Laguna Mar Chiquita, CBA 300, 326 Laguna Negra, NEU 395 Laguna Panza de Cabra, CHA 870 Laguna Pozuelos, JUJ 817, 818 Laguna Rincón, NEU 399 Laguna Rolito, BA 124 Laguna Rosario, CHU 543 Laguna Salada, BA 177 Laguna Sati, COR 910 Laguna Sauce Grande, BA 176 Laguna Setúbal, SFE 376 Laguna Sulfurosa, NEU 397 Laguna Tapia, NEU 396 Laguna Tonchek, RN 466 Laguna Trolope, NEU 399, 400 Laguna Varvarco Campos, NEU 395 Laguna Varvarco, NEU 396 Laguna Verde II, NEU 397 Laguna Verde, NEU 397 Laguna Verde, RN 466 Laguna Vitel, BA 127 Laguna Yalca, BA 127 Lagunas de Yala, JUJ 810, 829 Lagunas las Mellizas, NEU 400 Laishi, FOR See San Francisco de Laishi, FOR Lapachos, JUJ 807 Lapataia, TDF 598 Laprida, BA 238 Las Aguaditas de San José, CAT 755 Las Bóvedas, MZA 676 Las Breñas, CHA 872 Las Cañas, SLU 610 Las Chacras, SLU 623 Las Chacritas, CAT 726 Las Coloradas, NEU 430 Las Cuevas, MZA 636, 661 Las Cumbrecita, CBA 331

1046

INDEX Manzano Histórico, MZA 665, 673, 675 Mapuche, CHU 543 Maquinchao, RN 480 Mar Chiquita, BA 238 Mar Chiquita, CBA 300, 844, 845 Mar de Ajó, BA 133, 146 Map 148 Mar de las Pampas, BA 228 Mar del Plata, BA 108, 149 Maps 150, 158, 160, 162, 165 Mar del Sur, BA 166, 173 Mar del Tuyú, BA 167 Marcos Juárez, CBA 294 Margarita Belén, FOR 895 Mariano Moreno, NEU 442 Martín Coronado, BA 238 Matara, SDE 847 Médanos de los Altos Limpios, MZA 632 Médanos, BA 238 Melincué, SFE 384 Mendoza Province 631 Mendoza, MZA 647 Maps 648, 650, 654 Mercedes, BA 143, 238 Mercedes, COR 900, 919 Mercedes, SLU See Villa Mercedes, SLU Merlo, BA 238 Merlo, SLU 603, 606, 622 Map 607 Metán Viejo, SAL 790 Metán, SAL 789 Miguel Riglos, LAP 360 Mina Clavero, CBA 292, 295, 324, 325 Map 297 Mina La Concordia, SAL 812 Mina Tincalayo, SAL 810 Mina Uno, SCR 583 Minas Capillitas, CAT 731 Mirador del Cerro Aconcagua, MZA 661 Mirador, RN 466 Miramar, BA 168 Map 169 Miramar, CBA 300 Misión Nueva Pompeya, CHA 870 Misiones Province 985 MisiónSan Francisco Solano de Tacaaglé 889 Moconá Falls, MIS See Gran Salto de Moconá, MIS Mocoretá, COR 921 Mogote Los Gigantes, CBA 314, 324 Los Mogotes Colorados, RJA 708, 715 Molino, JUJ 815

Los Altares, CHU 519 Los Angeles, CAT 746 Los Antiguos, SCR 507, 564, 569 Los Arboles, MZA 674 Los Baldecitos, SJU 687 Los Baños, NEU 400 Los Bolillos, NEU 396 Los Castillos de Pincheira, MZA 646 Los Castillos, SAL 807 Los Cerillos, MZA 662 Los Cipreses, CHU 541 Los Cocos, CBA 256, 293 Los Farellones, CAT 737 Los Higuerales, MZA 674 Los Hornillos, CBA 247, 293, 330 Los Lobos, SLU 623 Los Manantiales, BA 183 Los Manzanos, RJA 708 Los Menucos, RN 480, 487 Los Molinos, RJA 716 Los Molles, MZA 634, 642, 671 Los Molles, SLU 611 Los Morrillos de Ansilta, SJU 682 Los Nacimientos, CAT 737 Los Penitentes, MZA 632, 634, 636, 639, 661 Los Pinos, NEU 400 Los Pizarros, TUC 761, 779 Los Pozos, CBA 330 Los Reartes, CBA 325, 334 Los Reyunos, MZA 671 Los Sarmientos, RJA 708 Los Tachos, NEU 396 Los Túneles, CBA 324 Los Yacones, SAL 808 Lozano, JUJ 831 Luján de Cuyo, MZA 647 Luján, BA 143 Map 145 Luján, SLU 613 Lules, TUC 778 Lumbrera, SAL 806

M

Macachín, LAP 349 Maimará, JUJ 840 Maipú, BA 238 Maipú, MZA 648 Makallé, CHA 884 Malal Dormido, MZA 643 Malargüe, MZA 635, 643, 671 Map 644 Malligasta, RJA 708 Mandisovi, ER 953 Manos Pintados, CHU 536 Manzano Histórico, MZA 662

1047

ARGENTINA Nueve de Julio, BA 239

Molinos, SAL 784, 790, 810 Monserrat, CAP 87 Maps 49, 53 Monte Caseros, COR 921 Monte Comán, MZA 642 Monte Grande, BA 238 Monte Hermoso, BA 116, 173 Map 174 Monte Pissis, RJA 699 Monte Quemado, SDE 849, 850, 855, 870 Monte Redondo, SDE 857 Monte Zeballos, SCR 564 Montecarlo, MIS 986, 999 Monteros, TUC 757, 780 Monumento Natural Bosques Petrificados, SCR 545, 548 Monumento Natural Champaqui, CBA 247 Monumento Natural Laguna Pozuelos, JUJ 819 Monumento Natural Volcanes de Pocho, CBA 247, 313 Morón, BA 239 Mundo Nuevo, TUC 778 Munro, BA 239

O

Oberá, MIS 986, 993, 1000, 1021 Map 1001 Observatory of Ampimpa, TUC 758 Ojo de Agua, SDE 857 Ojo Dulce de Choya, CAT 726 Ojos de Agua, RN 479 Olavarría, BA 184 Oliva, CBA 339 Olivos, BA 239 Olta, RJA 717 Oncativo, CBA 339 Ongamira, CBA 257 Orán, SAL 791 Ostende, BA 189

P

P R S Peña, CHA See Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña, CHA Pachaco, SJU 696 Padre Angel Buodo, LAP 345 Pagancillo, RJA 707 Pago Largo, COR 909 Palermo, CAP 90 Maps 61, 63 Palmira, COR 900 Palo Blanco, CAT 750 Palpalá, JUJ 807 Pampa Blanca, JUJ 807 Pampa de Achala, CBA 299, 334 Pampa de Gualilan, SJU 697 Pampa de Guanacos, SDE 849 Pampa de Olaen, CBA 291 Pampa de Pocho, CBA 295, 325 Pampa de San Luis, CBA 324 Pampa del Tamboreo, SLU 622 Pampa El Toro, RN 463 Pampa Grande, SAL 808 Pampa Linda, RN 466 Pampa Negra, SJU 680 Pampichuelo, JUJ 837 Panaholma, CBA 299 Panambí, MIS 1000 Papagayos, SLU 612 Paraná, ER 934, 935, 966 Maps 968, 970 Paraná, ER 376, 382 Parera, LAP 360 Parque Arqueológico Provincial Santa Rosa, SAL 783, 812 Parque de los Poetas, SJU 696 Parque Menhir, TUC 779 Parque Nacional Baritú, SAL 783, 791

N

Nacimientos de Hualfín, CAT 726 Nacimiento del Río Alumbrera, CAT 726 Nahuel Pan, CHU 516 Nahueve, NEU 396 Nant y Fall, CHU 543 Naschel, SLU 626 Necochea, BA 108, 176 Maps 176, 177, 181 Neuquén Province 390 Neuquén, NEU 391, 412, 487 Map 413 Nevado de Acay, RJA 811 Nevado del Cachi, SAL 782, 784, 785, 786, 789, 810 Nevado del Candado, CAT 728, 730, 747 Nevado del Chani, SAL 782 Nevado Famatina, RJA 704 Nevado Queva, SAL 782, 811, 812 Nevados del Aconquija, CAT 726 Nevados del Aconquija, TUC 756, 761 Nogolí, SLU See Hipólito Yrigoyen, SLU Nogoyá, ER 965 Nono, CBA 292, 299, 331 Nonogasta, RJA 700, 708, 709, 715 Nueva Galia, SLU 628 Nueva Pompeya, CHA 869, 870

1048

INDEX Parque Provincial El Cochuna, TUC 757, 760, 761 Parque Provincial El Cruce, MIS See Parque Provincial Cruce Caballero, MIS Parque Provincial Ernesto Tornquist, BA 108, 116, 217 Parque Provincial Federico Cantoni, SJU 678, 696 Parque Provincial General San Martín, ER 973 Parque Provincial Guasamayo, RJA 700 Parque Provincial Ischigualasto, SJU 678, 687, 690, 696 Parque Provincial Luro, LAP 342 Parque Provincial Pampa del Indio, CHA 868, 876 Parque Provincial Salto Encantado, MIS 991 Parque Provincial Talampaya, RJA 687, 699, 709, 715, 720 Parque Provincial Volcán Tupungato, MZA 634 Parque Rivadavia, SJU See Quebrada de Zonda, SJU Parque Yacampis, RJA 715 Paso Baguales, SCR 559 Paso Cardenal Samore, NEU 438 Paso Carirriñe, NEU 406 Paso Carrenleufú, CHU 24, 516 Paso Coihue, NEU 465 Paso Copahue, NEU 398 Paso de Comecaballos, RJA 700 Paso de Córdoba, NEU 464 Paso de Huaitiquina, SAL 21 Paso de Icalma, NEU 23 Paso de Jama, JUJ 21, 817, 830, 838 Paso de la Cumbre, MZA 22 Paso de la Laguna Sico, SAL 21, 810, 812 Paso de la Patria, COR 885, 899, 909, 922 Map 923 Paso de las Nubes, RN 466 Paso de los Libres, COR 924 Map 926 Paso de Mamuil Malal, NEU See Paso Tromen, NEU Paso de Pérez Rosales, RN 23, 462, 465 Paso de Pino Hachado, NEU 22 Paso de San Francisco, CAT 22, 747, 750 Paso del Agua Negra, SJU 22, 678, 683, 693, 696, 697 Paso del Maule, MZA 22 Paso del Rey, SLU 622 Paso El Infiernillo, TUC 753, 758 Paso Garibaldi, TDF 591 Paso Hua Hum, NEU 23

Parque Nacional Calilegua, JUJ 817, 831, 836 Parque Nacional Chaco, CHA 868, 870 Parque Nacional del Iguazú, MIS 988, 993 Parque Nacional El Palmar, ER 935, 940, 944, 950, 973 Parque Nacional El Rey, SAL 782, 806 Parque Nacional Francisco Perito Moreno, SCR 507, 545, 546, 547, 562, 565 Parque Nacional Lago Puelo, CHU 473, 509, 516, 521 Parque Nacional Laguna Blanca, NEU 391, 394, 430, 439, 443 Parque Nacional Lanín, NEU 391, 395, 407, 411, 422, 430, 482 Parque Nacional Lihué Calel, LAP 342, 350 Parque Nacional Los Alerces, CHU 463, 497, 500, 501, 510, 516, 519 Parque Nacional Los Arrayanes NEU 391, 437 Parque Nacional Los Cardones, SAL 782 Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, SCR 545, 552, 557, 559, 565 Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, NEU 23, 391, 435, 438, 481 Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, RN 481 Parque Nacional Pre-Delta La Azotea, ER 952 Parque Nacional Quebrada del Condorito, CBA 247 Parque Nacional Río Pilcomayo, FOR 886, 888, 889 Parque Nacional Sierra de las Quijada, SLU 611 Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, TDF 586, 592, 598 Parque Natural Chancani, CBA 313 Parque Natural y Reserva Natural Forestal Chancani, CBA 246 Parque Natural y Zona de Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur, CAP 92 Parque Provincial Aconcagua, MZA 634, 639 Parque Provincial Cochuna, TUC 761 Parque Provincial Cruce Caballero, MIS 989, 996 Parque Provincial de la Araucaria, MIS See Parque Provincial Cruce Caballero, MIS Parque Provincial Dunícola Miguel Lillo, BA 183

1049

ARGENTINA Pismanta, SJU 678, 683, 688, 690, 696 Pista Francisco Jerman, TDF 597 Playa Paraná, CHU 529 Playa Unión, CHU 532, 533 Playas Doradas, RN 488 Plaza Huincul, NEU 405 Poca, CBA 313 Pocitos, SAL 793, 813 Polco, RJA 703 Polvaredas, MZA 661 Polvarillo, SAL 801, 812 Polvorines, BA 239 Pomán, CAT 738, 746, 747 Pomona, RN 487 Portada Covunco, NEU 442 Portezuelo de Choique, MZA 646 Portezuelo de Puyehué, NEU 23 Portezuelo del Colorado, SJU 697 Portezuelo El Tambor, SJU 696 Portillo Argentino, MZA 674 Porvenir, XII 24 Posadas, MIS 986, 988, 1004 Maps 1007, 1008 Posta de Lozano, JUJ 830, 841 Posta de Yatasto, SAL 790 Potrerillos, MZA 636, 661, 662 Potrero de Garay, CBA 252, 334 Potrero de los Funes, SLU (lake) 624 Potrero de los Funes, SLU (town) 624 Potrero de Uriburu at, SAL 812 Pozo de Baez, TUC 764 Pozo de las Ánimas, MZA 643, 645, 671 Presa Embalse y Central Hidroelectrica Cuesta del Viento, SJU 677, 684 Presidencia de la Plaza, CHA 868 Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña, Cha 871 Map 872 Primeros Pinos, NEU 391, 394, 421, 443 Profesor Salvador Mazza, SAL See Pocitos, SAL Puán, BA 125, 239 Pucará de la Alumbrera, CAT 733 Pucará de Tilcara, JUJ 840 Pucará de Yacoraite, JUJ 821 Pueblo Perdido de la Quebrada, CAT 743 Pueblos de la Costa, RJA 716, 717 Pueblos de la Costa, SLU 611 Puente Ardanaz, BA 183 Puente del Inca, MZA 634, 636, 639, 661 Puente Histórico Picheuta, MZA 661, 676 Puente Las Horquetas, SLU 642 Puerta de Corral Quemado, CAT 737 Puerta de Talampaya, RJA 699, 715 Puerta Tastil, SAL 809

Paso Mamuil Malal, NEU See Paso Tromen, NEU Paso Marconi, SCR 561 Paso Pehuenche, MZA 22 Paso Puyehué, NEU 432, 462 Paso Río La Leona, SCR 558, 566 Paso Tromen, NEU 23, 410, 411, 430, 432 Pasos Malos, SLU 610 Patagones, BA See Carmen de Patagones, BA Patquía, RJA 708, 709, 715 Payogasta, SAL 785, 810 Payún Liso, MZA 646 Payún Matrú, MZA 646 Pedro Luro, BA 239 Pehuajó, BA 186 Pehuen-Có, BA 116, 186 Pellegrini, BA 239 Pellegrini, COR See Colonia Carlos Pellegrini, COR Peña, CHA See Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña, CHA Peninsula Quetrihue, NEU 437 Península Valdés, CHU 497, 523, 525, 529 Península Yuco, NEU 428 Peñon de la Reina Victoria, MIS See Peñon del Teyú Cuaré, MIS Peñon del Teyú Cuaré, MIS 989, 1013, 1024 Pérez, SFE 371 Pergamino, BA 187 Perico, JUJ 841 Perito Moreno, SCR 566 Map 568 Pico Truncado, SCR 547 Pico Turista, RN 466 Piedra Buena, SCR See Comandante Luis Piedra Buena, SCR Piedra del Águila, NEU 419 Map 420 Piedra del Molino, SAL 810 Piedra del Viento, NEU 464 Piedra Grande, MZA 662 Piedras Moras, CBA 248 Piedras Pintadas, SDE 866 Pigüé, BA 125, 217, 239 Pilar, BA 187 Pilar, CBA 339 Pinamar, BA 188, 233 Map 189 Pinchas, RJA 717 Piñihue, NEU 395 Pirané, FOR 895

1050

INDEX Punta Marqués, CHU 507 Punta Norte del Cabo de San Antonio, BA 200 Punta Norte, CHU 529, 530 Punta Pardelas, CHU 530 Punta Pirámide, CHU 529 Punta Quilla, SCR 545, 576 Punta Tombo, CHU 529, 531 Punta Villarino, RN 484 Punto Panoramico, RN 465 Purmamarca, JUJ 809, 830, 841

Puerto Alegre, RN 465 Puerto Anchorena, RN 483 Puerto Antequeras, CHA 884 Puerto Belgrano, BA 111 Puerto Bermejo, CHA 885 Puerto Blest, RN 464, 465, 483 Puerto Canoa, NEU 407, 411 Puerto Canoas, MIS 1021 Puerto Deseado, SCR 569 Map 571 Puerto Esperanza, MIS 986, 1014 Puerto Frías, RN 446, 465 Puerto Galván, BA 111 Puerto Hormiguero, COR 930 Puerto Iguazú, MIS 988, 993, 1014 Map 1017 Puerto Ingeniero White, BA 111 Puerto Limanao, CHU 514, 521 Puerto Madero, CAP 92 Maps 47, 51 Puerto Madryn, CHU 497, 522, 525 Maps 526, 527 Puerto Mineral, MIS 986 Puerto Obligado, ER 957 Puerto Pañuelo, RN 465, 466, 482 Puerto Pilcomayo, FOR 887, 888, 889 Puerto Pilcomayo, MIS 21 Puerto Pirámide, CHU 525, 529 Puerto Piray, MIS 986, 999 Puerto Ramírez, X 24 Puerto Rawson, CHU 531 Puerto Rico, MIS 986, 1022 Puerto Ruiz, ER 955 Puerto San Julián, SCR 572 Map 573 Puerto Santa Cruz, SCR 551, 576 Puerto Vélaz, FOR 895 Puerto Vilelas, CHA 868 Puerto Yeruá, ER 951 Pulares, SAL 810 Punilla, CBA 256, 275, 277, 283, 291 Punta Alta, BA 111, 187 Punta Bandera, SCR 557 Punta Bermeja, RN 446, 494 Punta Colorada, RN 445, 488 Punta Cuevas, COR 901 Punta de Balasto, CAT 726, 737 Punta de Vacas, MZA 636, 655, 661 Punta del Agua, SLU 614, 623 Punta Delgada, CHU 530 Punta Desnudez, BA 226 Punta Este, CHU 529 Punta Gorda, ER 952 Punta Gualichu, SCR 558 Punta Loyola, SCR 577, 582 Punta María, TDF 590

Q

Quebrada Chulca, TUC 764 Quebrada de Anta, TUC 764 Quebrada de Cafayate, SAL 807, 810 Quebrada de Cautana, SLU 623 Quebrada de Escoipe, SAL 783, 785, 806, 810 Quebrada de Huaco, RJA 716 Quebrada de Huaco, SJU 687 Quebrada de Humahuaca, JUJ 820, 821, 830, 831, 839 Quebrada de Jujuil, CAT 753 Quebrada de la Luna, CBA 257 Quebrada de la Mermela, CBA 313 Quebrada de la Pancha, SJU 684 Quebrada de la Troya, RJA 721 Quebrada de las Conchas, SAL 810 Quebrada de las Llaretas, MZA 674 See Also Río Llaretas, MZA Quebrada de López, SLU 614 Quebrada de los Árboles, CAT 750 Quebrada de los Condores, SLU 622, 624 Quebrada de los Laureles, SAL 810 Quebrada de los Laureles, TUC 764 Quebrada de los Rayos, SLU 614 Quebrada de Lules, TUC 778 Quebrada de Reyes, JUJ 823 Quebrada de Salta, SAL 789 Quebrada de Talampaya, RJA 699 Quebrada de Zonda, SJU 696 Quebrada del Arroyo Grande, MZA 674 Quebrada del Baño del Indio, SJU 695 Quebrada del Condorito, CBA 253, 307 Quebrada del León Colgado, SLU 626 Quebrada del Mal Paso, JUJ 830 Quebrada del Río de las Conchas, SAL 807 Quebrada del Río Suquía, CBA 275 Quebrada del Toro, MZA 662 Quebrada del Toro, SAL 809 Quebrada El Potrero, CAT 743 Quebrada El Tala, CAT 743 Quebrada San Lorenzo, SAL 808

1051

ARGENTINA Reserva Natural Bañados del Río Dulce y Laguna Mar Chiquita, CBA 247, 300 Reserva Natural Bosque Petrificado José Ormachea, CHU 535 Reserva Natural Bosque Telteca, MZA 632, 662 Reserva Natural Cabo Blanco, SCR 545 Reserva Natural Cabo Dos Bahías, CHU 499, 500 Reserva Natural Campos del Tuyú, BA 203 Reserva Natural de Fauna La Felipa, CBA 246, 283 Reserva Natural de Fauna Lagunas del Sur y Bañados del Saladillo, CBA 247, 292 Reserva Natural del Iberá, COR 928 Reserva Natural Estricta Colonia Benítez, CHA 868, 885 Reserva Natural Estricta El Leoncito, SJU 678, 681 Reserva Natural Estricta Otamendi, BA 123 Reserva Natural Formosa, FOR 886, 896 Reserva Natural Laguna Blanca, CAT 733 Reserva Natural Los Gigantes, CBA 247 Reserva Natural Paraje Los Indios, MIS 1003 Reserva Natural Provincial Pampa de Achala, CBA 247 Reserva Natural Punta Lara, BA 140 Reserva Natural Recreativa Uritorco, CBA 247 Reserva Natural Ría del Deseado, SCR 545, 572 Reserva Natural Sierra del Tigre, BA 222 Reserva Natural Vaquerías, CBA 247, 291 Reserva Parque Luro, LAP 358 Reserva Provincial Bahía Oso Marino, SCR 545 Reserva Provincial Cabo Virgenes, SCR 582 Reserva Provincial de Vicuña y Protección del Ecosistema Laguna Brava, RJA 699, 700, 720 Reserva Provincial Fuerte Esperanza, CHA 868, 870 Reserva Provincial Isla Caraguatay, MIS 988 Reserva Provincial Isla del Cerrito, CHA 868

Quehué, LAP 345 Quemú Quemú, LAP 360 Quequén, BA 176, 177, 183 Quila-Quina, NEU 428 Quilmes, BA 239 Quilmes, TUC 726, 779, 787 Quimey Mahuida, RN 462 Quimilí, SDE 849, 870 Quines, SLU 612 Quitilipi, CHA 868, 869

R

Raco, TUC 778 Rada Tilly, CHU See Balneario Rada Tilly, CHU Rafaela, SFE 362 Rahué, NEU 394 Ramallo, BA 239 Rancul, LAP 360 Rauch, BA 239 Rawson, CHU 497, 529, 531 Map 532 Realicó, LAP 342, 350 Recoleta, CAP 93 Maps 57, 59, 61 Reconquista, SFE 363 Recreo, CAT 751 Recreo, SFE 376 Reducción de la Cangayé, CHA 868, 875 Reducción de San Bernardo El Vértiz, CHA 868, 869 Reducción de San Fernando del Río Negro, CHA 868, 876 Renca, SLU 626 Reserva Bahía y Península San Julián, SCR 574 Reserva Camélidos Olaroz Cauchari, JUJ 838 Reserva Cañadón del Duraznillo, SCR 549 Reserva Centro Biologico Pilagás III., FOR 895 Reserva Cultural Natural Cerro Colorado, CBA 247, 301, 308, 326 Reserva Ecológica Ñacuñán, MZA 632 Reserva Hídrica Natural La Quebrada, CBA 247, 302 Reserva Nacional Copahue, NEU 397, 400 Reserva Nacional San Guillermo, SJU 678, 680 Reserva Nacional San Lorenzo, SCR 546, 547 Reserva Natural Bahía Laura, SCR 545

1052

INDEX Río Calamuchita, CBA 249, 331 Río Calchaqui, CAT 726 Río Calchaquí, SAL 783, 784, 785, 786, 788, 789, 790, 807, 810 Río Calchaqui, TUC 758, 759 Río Caleufu, NEU 400 Río Calingasta, SJU 682 Río Candelaria, JUJ 831 Río Carabar, SAL 814 Río Carbón Grande, SFE 371 Río Carocas, MZA 673 Río Castaño Viejo, SJU 682 Río Castaño, SJU 679, 682 Río Ceballos, CBA (town) 301 Río Chango Real, CAT 737 Río Chango, CAT 737 Río Chaschuil, CAT 750, 754 Río Chico, SCR 562, 565, 574, 575 Río Chimehuin, NEU 391, 406, 464 Río Chorrillos, SLU 614 Rio Chubut, CHU 497, 517, 518, 523, 529, 537 Río Chunapa, SAL 807 Río Cinsel, JUJ 819 Río Claromecó, BA 225 Río Cle, ER 955 Río Cobre, MZA 635 Río Cochuna, TUC 761 Río Coctaca, JUJ 821 Río Collón Curá, NEU 464 Río Colorado, LAP 358 Río Colorado, MZA 646 Río Colorado, NEU 391 Río Colorado, RJA 702 Río Colorado, RN (river) 467, 483 Río Colorado, RN (town) 483 Río Concepción, CAT 743 Río Condorito, CBA 253 Río Conlara, SLU 604, 623, 626 Río Corrientes, COR 911 Río Cuanaquitas, MZA 674 Río Cuarto, CBA (river) 303 Río Cuarto, CBA (town) 303 Río Curri Leuvu, NEU 402 Río de la Plata, BA 135, 140, 222 Río de la Plata, CAP 39 Río de la Ventana, BA 116 Río de las Conchas, SAL 789 Río de las Cuevas, MZA 634, 635, 636, 639, 661 Río de las Piedras, SAL 790 Río de los Patos, SJU 678, 679, 680, 681, 682, 696 Río de los Reartes, CBA 334 Río de los Sauces, CBA 299, 331 Río de los Sauces, RJA 702

Reserva Provincial Laguna Azul, SCR 582 Reserva Provincial los Palmares, SAL 783 Reserva Provincial Meseta de Somoncura, RN 489 Reserva Provincial Tromen, NEU 404 Reserva Provincial Valle Acambuco, SAL 783 Reserva Punta Loma, CHU 529 Reserva Recreativa El Diquecito, CBA 275 Reserva Recreativa Natural El Diquecito, CBA 247 Resistencia, CHA 868, 876, 895 Maps 878, 882 Reta, BA 226 Retiro, CAP 96 Riachuelo Antequera, CHA 884 Riera, SCR 562 Rincón de los Sauces, NEU 421 Rincón de Papagayos, SLU 612 Rinconada, JUJ 821 Río Abaucán, CAT 749, 754, 755 Río Abaucán, RJA 702 Río Agrio, NEU 399, 400, 441 Río Alerce, RN 463 Río Aluminé, NEU 392, 394, 464 Río Amaicha, TUC 758 Río Areco, BA 194 Río Arias, SAL 794 Río Arrayanes, CHU 521 Río Ascochinga, CBA 281 Río Atuel, MZA 635, 639, 666, 671 Río Azul, RN 477 Río Baradero, BA 119 Río Baritú, SAL 783 Río Barrancas, MZA 635, 646 Río Barrancas, NEU 391 Río Barranqueras, CHA 876 Río Belén, CAT 731, 733, 736, 737 See Also Cañon Belén, CAT Río Belgrano, SCR 565 Río Bermejito, CHA 875 Río Bermejo, CHA 868, 875, 885 Río Bermejo, FOR 895 Río Bermejo, JUJ 783 Río Bermejo, RJA 720 Río Bermejo, SAL 783, 792, 812 Río Blanco, MZA 636 Río Blanco, RN 462 Río Blanco, SAL 809 Río Blanco, SJU 681 Río El Bolsón, CAT 736 Río Bonete, RJA 699 Río Bote, SCR 552, 582

1053

ARGENTINA Río Jáchal, SJU 679, 696, 697 Río Jordan, JUJ 837 Río Juan Gómez, SJU 614 Río Kalayo, JUJ 830 Río La Leona, SCR 558, 566 Río Las Juntas, CAT 743 Río Las Lajas, CAT 736, 754 Río Las Salvias, CAT 743 Río Lerma, SAL 782, 785, 794, 806, 807 Río Lileo, NEU 395 Río Limay, NEU 391, 412, 419 Río Limay, RN 463, 464, 465 Río Lipeo, SAL 783 Río Llaretas, MZA 674 See Also Quebrada de las Llaretas, MZA Río Los Angeles, CAT 743 Río Los Antiguos, SCR 564 Río Los Blancos, MZA 672 Río Los Chorrillos, CBA 314 Río Los Repollos, RN 463 Río Los Sauces, CBA 328 Río Los Tordillos, MZA 672 Río Lozano, JUJ 830 Río Luján, BA 143, 222 Río Lules, TUC 778 Río Luracatao, SAL 790 Río Malargüe, MZA 646 Río Malleo, NEU 391 Río Manantiales, MZA 672, 674 Río Manso, RN 466 Río Marada, TUC 760, 764 Río Mayo, CBA 257 Río Mayo, CHU (river) 533 Río Mayo, CHU (town) 533 Río Meliquina, NEU 432 Río Mendoza, MZA 635, 647, 661 Río Mina Clavero, CBA 295 Río Miní, COR 914 Río Mojotoro, SAL 807 Río Molino, SLU 610 Río Nahueve, NEU 396 Río Naposta, BA 111 Río Negro Province 444 Río Negro, CHA 868, 877 Río Negro, NEU (town) 125, 360 Río Negro, LAP 342, 360 Río Negro, RN 446, 470, 487, 489, 494 Río Neuquén, NEU 395, 404, 412, 471 Río Olivia, TDF 591, 599 Río Olnie, SCR 562, 563 Río Paimún, NEU 391 Río Palomares, MZA 674 Río Panaholma, CBA 295 Río Paraguay, CHA 884, 885 Río Paraguay, COR 922

Río de los Tambillos, MZA 636, 639 Río de Pachón, SJU 678 Río del Cobre, MZA 642 Río del Medio, CBA 286, 334 Río del Portezuelo, CAT 746 Río del Valle, SJU 685 Río Desaguadero, CHU 520 Río Deseado, SCR 569, 572 Río Diamante, MZA 635, 661, 666, 671 Río Dulce, CBA 300 Río Dulce, SDE 844, 845, 847, 850, 858 Río El Manzano, SLU 610 Río Empedrado, COR 910 Río Encuentro, CHU 24 Río Epuyén, CHU 508 Río Escorial, NEU 391 Río Espinillo, CBA 334 Río Espinillo, ER 963 Río Ewan, TDF 590 Río Fitzroy, SCR 558, 561 Río Formosa, FOR 889 Río Foyel, RN 463 Río Frías, RN 463 Río Frias, SCR 558 Río Futalaufquén, CHU 516 Río Futaleufú, CHU 520 Río Gallegos, SCR (city) 552, 576 Map 579 Río Gallegos, SCR (river) 577 Río Garupá, MIS 1013 Río Gastona, TUC 759, 760, 778 Río Grande de Punillas, CBA 291 Río Grande de Valle Hermoso, RJA 720 Río Grande del Campo, CAT 761 Río Grande, JUJ 820, 821, 822, 839 Río Grande, MZA 646 Río Grande, SLU 624 Río Grande, TDF (river) 586 Río Grande, TDF (city) 587 Map 589 Río Gualeguay, ER 934, 955, 957, 974, 980 Río Gualeguaychú, ER 934 Río Guanaquitas, MZA 672 Río Guaycurú, MIS 986 Río Guerrero, JUJ 830 Río Hua Hum, NEU 432 Río Huachichocana, JUJ 830 Río Huaco, RJA 716 Río Huaco, SJU 687 Río Hualcupen, NEU 399 Río Huasamayo, JUJ 839, 840 Río Huemul, CHU 508 Río Icho Cruz, CBA 325 Río Iguazú, MIS 986, 993, 1020 Río Incamayo, SAL 809

1054

INDEX Río San Francisco, JUJ 750, 817, 831, 837 Río San Guillermo, CBA 325 Río San Ignacio, TUC 761 Río San Javier, SFE 382 Río San Javier, CBA 328 Río San Juan, SJU 677, 679, 682, 688, 696 Río San Lorenzo, SAL 808 Río Santa Lucía, COR 913 Río San Marcos, CBA 309 Río San Pedro, RJA 809 Río Santa Cruz, SCR 550, 552, 565, 566, 576 Río Santa María, CAT 737, 752 Río Santa Rosa, CBA 310 Río Santa Victoria, SAL 835 Río Sauce Grande, BA 214 Río Segundo, CBA (river) 339 Río Segundo, CBA (town) 340 Río Senguer, CHU 499, 507, 534 Río Siambón, TUC 778 Río Simbolar, CAT 746 Río Tacanas, TUC 763, 764, 779 Río Tafí, TUC 753, 765, 767 Río Tapia, TUC 778 Río Tercero, CBA (river) 280, 306, 335, 336 Río Tercero, CBA (town) 306 Río Tesorero, JUJ 830, 831 Río Tipas, TUC 763, 779 Río Tiraxi, JUJ 831 Río Tordillo, MZA 635 Río Traful, NEU 463, 464 Río Trocoman, NEU 404 Río Trolope, NEU 399, 400 Río Troya, CAT 750, 755 Río Tunuyán, MZA 634, 635, 662, 663, 664, 672 Río Tupungato, MZA 634 Río Turbio, SCR 545, 582 Río Uco, MZA 674 Río Urigua-í, MIS 989, 1021 Río Uruguay, CAP 77 Río Uruguay, COR 899, 921, 924 Río Uruguay, ER 39, 934, 935, 937, 938, 940, 941, 946, 950, 957, 973, 982 Río Uruguay, MIS 985, 986, 988, 989, 996, 998, 1000, 1004, 1021, 1025 Río Uruguay, SJU 696 Río Uspallata, MZA 635 Río Valenzuela, MZA 635 Río Varvarco, NEU 395 Río Vallecito, TUC 761 Río Victoria, ER 978 Río Villegas, RN 463 Río Vinchina, RJA 720 Río Xibi Xibi, JUJ 822

Río Paraguay, FOR 886, 887, 889, 890, 895 Río Paraná de las Palmas, BA 121, 123 Río Paraná de las Palmas, ER 934 Río Paraná Guazú, ER 934 Río Paraná, BA 119, 206, 235 Río Paraná, CAP 39, 78 Río Paraná, CHA 876, 877, 884 Río Paraná, COR 899, 901, 902, 910, 913, 914, 915, 916, 922 Río Paraná, ER 934, 952, 955, 963, 966, 978 Río Paraná, MIS 985, 986, 988, 994, 996, 999, 1000, 1004, 1013, 1020, 1021, 1022, 1026 Río Paraná, SFE 361, 362, 363, 365, 371, 376, 382 Río Pepiri Guazú, MIS 985, 988, 992 Río Pepiri Miní, MIS 988 Río Pescado, SAL 783 Río Picheuta, MZA 635 Río Pico, CHU 518 Río Pilcomayo, FOR 886, 887, 889 Río Pincheira, MZA 646 Río Pinturas, SCR 545, 547, 569 Río Piray Miní, MIS 996 Río Poti Mallal Chico, MZA 635 Río Poti Mallal Grande, MZA 635 Río Potrero Grande, RJA 720 Río Pozo, CAT 730 Río Primero, CBA 257, 275 Río Punilla, CBA 249, 254, 275 Río Punillo, CAT 731 Río Quequén Grande, BA 177, 183 Río Quequén Salado, BA 226 Río Quillén, NEU 394 Río Quimivil, CAT 734 Río Quinto, CBA 281 Río Quinto, SLU 624 Río Raco, TUC 778 Río Reyes, JUJ 829, 830 Río Rivadavia, CHU 521 Río Rugapampa, CBA 325 Río Saisa, SJU 696 Río Saladillo, CAT 753 Río Saladillo, SDE 857 Río Salado, BA 127 Río Salado, MZA 635, 645, 646 Río Salado, RJA 702 Río Salado, SDE 844, 847, 848 Río Sali, SDE 856 Río Salí, TUC 757, 777 Río Salsacate, CBA 313 Río San Antonio, MIS 985, 988, 993 Río San Francisco, SLU 614 Río San Francisco, CBA 288

1055

ARGENTINA Salinas Grandes de Hidalgo, LAP 349 Salinas Grandes, CAT 751 Salinas Grandes, CBA 279 Salinas Grandes, JUJ 817, 830 Salinas Grandes, RJA 698 Salinas Grandes, SAL 809 Salliqueló, BA 240 Salsacate, CBA 313 Salsipuedes, CBA 306 Salta Province 781 Salta, SAL 737, 782, 785, 794, 832 Maps 796, 804 Salto Alegre, MIS 991 Salto Alegría, MIS 993 Salto Andresito, MIS 993 Salto Berrondo, MIS 1003 Salto Chávez, MIS 991 Salto de Agua Tupa, MIS 993 Salto del Capioví, MIS 1023 Salto de Moconá, MIS See Gran Salto de Moconá, MIS Salto del Tabaquillo, SLU 610 Salto Dos Hermanos, MIS 1003 Salto Elena, MIS 996 Salto Encantado, MIS 986 Salto Grande Dam, ER 946 Salto Grande, ER 935, 950, 953 Salto Los Cedros, MIS 1026 Salto Orquidea, MIS 994 Salto Paca, MIS 1003 Salto Piedras Blancas, MIS 991 Salto Rosa Mística, MIS 1026 Salto San Martín, MIS 1021 Salto Yacú Argentina, MIS 989 Salto, BA 240 Saltos del Apipé, COR 900 Salto del Capioví, MIS 998 Saltos del Mocona, MIS 1013 Saltos del Tabay, MIS 998 Saltos Tobogán, MIS 1003 Salvador Mazza, SAL See Pocitos, SAL Samay Huasi, RJA 707 Sampacho, CBA 303 San Agustín de Valle Fértil, SJU 677, 679, 685, 696 Map 686 San Antonio de Areco, BA 194 Map 195 San Antonio de Arredondo, CBA 334 San Antonio de los Cobres, SAL 732, 737, 782, 808, 809, 810 San Antonio Oeste, RN 445, 484 San Antonio, MIS 993 San Bernardo, BA 197 Map 198

Río Yala, JUJ 829, 830 Río Yasyamayo, TUC 759 Río Yokavil, CAT 725 Río Yuspe, CBA 314, 324 Río Fuego, TDF 590 Rivadavia, MZA 663 Map 663 Rivadavia, SJU 678 Rivera, BA 239 Rocas Negras, BA 166 Rodeo, SJU 684, 697 Rojas, BA 239 Romang, SFE 364 Roque Pérez, BA 239 Roque Sáenz Peña, CHA See Presidencia Roque Saenz Peña, CHA Rosario de Colona, CAT 747 Rosario de la Frontera, SAL 793 Rosario del Tala, ER 974 Rosario, SFE 361, 365 Maps 366, 367, 372, 374 Ruca Laufquen, RN 462 Rufino, SFE 375 Ruinas de El Pichao, TUC 759 Ruinas de Guacará, CHA 869 Ruinas de Incahuasi, SAL 812 Ruinas de Quilmes, TUC 753, 759, 762, 779, 788 Ruinas del Coyparcito, CAT 733 Ruiz de Montoya, MIS 1022

S

Saavedra, BA 217, 240 Sachayo, SDE 849 Sáenz Peña, CHA See Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña, CHA Salada de Choya, CAT 726 Saladillo, BA 240 Salar de Antofalla, CAT 725, 732, 733 Salar de Pipanaco, CAT 725, 730, 733, 735, 739, 747 Salar del Hombre Muerto, CAT 732 Salar del Hombre Muerto, SAL 811 Salar Pocitos, SAL 801 Saldungaray, BA 217 Salicas, RJA 718 Salina de la Laguna Verde, CAT 725 Salina del Gualicho, RN 487 Salina Grande, CHU 529, 530 Salina La Antigua, RJA 698 Salina Olaroz, JUJ 838 Salinas de Ambargasta, SDE 845, 857, 865 Salinas del Bebedero, SLU 622

1056

INDEX San Miguel de Tucumán. TUC See Tucumán, TUC San Miguel del Monte, BA 204 Map 204 San Miguel, BA 240 San Nicolás de los Arroyos, BA 206 Map 207 San Nicolás, CAP 98 Maps 51, 53 San Pablo, TUC 757 San Pedro de Atacama, SAL 812 San Pedro de Colalao, TUC 763, 779 San Pedro de Jujuy, JUJ 831, 841 San Pedro, BA 208 San Pedro, MIS 991, 993, 996, 1004, 1021, 1025 San Pedro, RJA 716 San Rafael, MZA 661, 666 Map 667 San Ramón de la Nueva Orán, SAL See Orán, SAL San Roque, CAT 755 San Salvador de Jujuy, JUJ See Jujuy, JUJ San Sebastián, TDF 591 San Telmo, CAP 103 Maps 44, 47 San Vicente, MIS 1026 Sañogasta, RJA 708 Santa Ana de los Guácaras, COR 908 Santa Ana, MIS 986, 988, 1013, 1024 Santa Catalina, JUJ 835 Santa Clara del Mar, BA 210 Santa Clara, JUJ 832 Santa Cruz Province 544 Santa Cruz, RJA 716 Santa Cruz, SCR See Puerto Santa Cruz, SCR Santa Elena, CBA 301 Santa Elena, ER 977 Santa Fe Province 361 Santa Fe, SFE 361, 362, 365, 376, 973 Map 379 Santa Florentina, RJA 708 Santa Isabel, LAP 351 Santa Lucía, COR 914 Santa María, CAT 736, 752, 758, 767 Santa María, MIS 988, 991, 998 Santa Rita, MIS 1004 Santa Rosa de Calamuchita, CBA 310 Map 311 Santa Rosa de los Pastos, SAL 811 Santa Rosa de Tastil, SAL 801, 809 Santa Rosa del Conlara, SLU 622 Santa Rosa, LAP 342, 352 Maps 354, 355

San Bernardo, CHA 869 San Blas, RJA 719 San Buenaventura del Monte Alto, CHA 878 San Carlos de Bariloche, RN 418 See Bariloche, RN San Carlos, MZA 664 San Carlos, SAL 789, 810 San Cayetano, BA 177, 240 San Clemente del Tuyú, BA 200 Map 201 San Clemente, CBA 253, 307 San Cristóbal, SFE 387 San Estebán, CBA 255 San Fernando del Valle de Catamarca, CAT 702 See Catamarca, CAT San Fernando, BA 240 San Francisco de Laishi, FOR 895 San Francisco del Chañar, CBA 326 San Francisco del Monte de Oro, SLU 613 San Francisco, CBA 307 San Gerónimo, SLU 603, 615 San Ignacio Miní, MIS 986, 988, 1013 San Ignacio, MIS 1023 San Isidro, BA 240 San Javier, CBA 331 San Javier, MIS 998, 1004, 1025 San Javier, SFE 382 San Javier, TUC 769, 777 San José Cue, COR 917 San José de Feliciano, ER 976 San José de Jáchal, SJU 677, 678, 687 San José de la Dormida, CBA 278, 308 San José de los Ríos, CBA 314 San José del Morro, SLU 605 San José, CAT 736, 744, 755 San José, ER 940, 975 San José, MIS 986 San Juan Province 677 San Juan, SJU 676, 677, 688 Map 691 San Julián, SCR See Puerto San Julián, SCR San Lorenzo, SAL 808 San Lorenzo, SFE 365 San Luis Province 602 San Luis, SLU 614 Map 616 San Marcos Sierra, CBA 257, 309 San Martín de los Andes, NEU 402, 422, 463, 464, 465 Maps 425, 428 San Martín, BA 240 San Martín, MZA 665

1057

ARGENTINA Sierra de los Llanos, RJA 703 Sierra de los Quinteros, RJA 717 Sierra de Manchao, CAT 739, 743, 747 Sierra de Michilingue, SLU 614 Sierra de Misiones, MIS 988, 991, 994, 996, 998, 1000, 1004, 1021, 1025, 1026 Sierra de Pastos Grandes, SAL 786 Sierra de Pocho, CBA 246, 310 Sierra de Quilmes, CAT 737, 752 Sierra de San Bernardino, CHU 534 Sierra de Sanogasta, RJA 708 Sierra de Santa Bárbara, JUJ 817 Sierra de Santa Victoria, SAL 835 Sierra de Sumampa, SDE 844, 857, 865 Sierra de Tandil, BA 108, 218 Sierra de Velasco, RJA 699, 704, 705, 707, 708, 709, 718 Sierra del Aconquija, CAT 752 Sierra del Cajón, SAL 788 Sierra del Imán, MIS 899, 998 Sierra del Morro, SLU 605 Sierra del Valle Fértil, SJU 685 Sierra Grande, CBA 246, 295, 299, 313, 324, 325, 331, 334 Sierra Grande, RN 445, 488 Sierra La Barrosa, BA 118 Sierra Lucio López, TDF 590 Sierras Chicas, CBA 246, 252, 255, 278, 281, 283, 287, 294, 301, 306, 307, 309, 310, 314, 331 Sierras de Córdoba, CBA 245, 246, 253, 256, 257, 277, 278, 279, 857 Sierras de Vinquis, CAT 736 Sierras El Volcán, BA 117 Silleta de los Higueras, TUC 779 Simoca, TUC 780 Sinsacate, CBA 281 Socompa, SAL 801, 811 Solca, RJA 700 Sorcuyo, JUJ 819 Stopovers, Santiago del Estero 866 Stroeder, BA 125 Suipacha, BA 240 Sumampa, SDE 845, 857, 865 Susques, JUJ 812, 817, 830, 837 Suyuque Viejo, SLU 621

Santa Teresita, BA 211 Santa Victoria, SAL 835 Santiago del Estero Province 844 Santiago del Estero, SDE 844, 847, 850, 864, 870 Maps 852, 853 Santo Tomé, COR 929 Sarmiento, CHU 502, 534, 535 Map 536 Saujil, CAT 747, 750 Schaqui, RJA 719 Selva, SDE 385 Señor de la Peña, RJA 716 Serranía Calilegua, JUJ 836 Serranía de Santa Bárbara, JUJU 832 Shincal, CAT 734 Siambon, TUC 778 Siambón, TUC 769 Sierra Central de San Luis, SLU 603, 614, 623, 624, 626 Sierra Chango Real, CAT 736 Sierra Chica, BA 185 Sierra de Achala, CBA 293, 325 Sierra de Aconquija, CAT 724, 736, 747 Sierra de Aconquija, TUC 765, 767, 768 Sierra de Ambargasta, SDE 857, 865 Sierra de Ambato, CAT 702, 738, 743, 744, 746, 747, 748 Sierra de Ancasti, CAT 728, 738 Sierra de Ancasti, RJA 702 Sierra de Argañaraz, RJA 703 Sierra de Auca Mahuida, NEU 422 Sierra de Bachicha, BA 118 Sierra de Belén, CAT 730 Sierra de Chachahuen, LAP 422 Sierra de Comechingones, CBA 286, 303, 305, 325, 328, 330 Sierra de Comechingones, SLU 603, 606, 610, 612 Sierra de Cuniputo, CBA 278 Sierra de Famatina, RJA 699, 704 Sierra de Fiambalá, CAT 730, 736, 755 Sierra de Guasayán, SDE 844, 845, 847, 865, 866 Sierra de Graciana, CAT 750 Sierra de la Ventana, BA (mountain range) 108, 116, 214 Sierra de la Ventana, BA (town) Libertador General San Martín, SLU 606

T

Taco Pozo, CHA 850, 870 Taco Ralo, TUC 757, 764, 780 Tafí del Valle, TUC 752, 757, 765, 778 Map 765 Tafí Viejo, TUC 757, 772 Taguas, MZA 634 Talamuyuna, RJA 708 Tamal Aike, SCR 563

Map 215 Sierra de la Ventana, RN 447 Sierra de las Capillitas, CAT 730 Sierra de Lihué Calel, LAP 350 Sierra de los Colorados, RJA 708

1058

INDEX Tolhuin, TDF 591 Tolombón, SAL 763, 787, 788 Toquipili, SAL 807 Tornquist, BA 116, 240 Toscas, MZA 634 Tostado, SFE 387 Trampasacha, CAT 744 Trancas, TUC 764, 779 Tranquera de Loreto, COR 917 Trapiche, SLU 621, 624 Trelew, CHU 497, 537 Map 538 Trenque Lauquen, BA 240 Tres Arroyos, BA 129, 131, 225 Tres Cerros, SCR 548 Tres Cruces, JUJ 815 Tres Lagos, SCR 566 Trevelín, CHU 516, 520, 541 Map 542 Triana, CHU 534 Tricao Malal, NEU 396, 402 Troya, CAT 750, 755 Tucumán, TUC 757, 768 Maps 768, 771, 774, 777 Tucumán Province 756 Tucumán Viejo, TUC See Ibatín, TUC Tudcum, SJU 684 Tumbaya, JUJ 830, 831 Túnel Subfluvial Uranga Silvestre Begnis, SFE 382 Tunuyan, MZA 662, 672 Map 673 Tupungato, MZA 662, 674

Tamberías de Angualasto, SJU 679, 696 Tamberías, SJU 696 Tambo del Inca, RJA 708 Tandil, BA 218 Map 219 Taninga, CBA 312, 324, 325 Tanti, CBA 313, 324 Tapalqué, BA 240 Tapiales, SLU 622 Tartagal, SAL 812 Tatane, FOR 895 Tebeniche, CAT 733 Temperly, BA 240 Termas de Agua Hedionda, SJU 678, 687, 688 Termas de Agua Negra, SJU 678, 688 Termas de Azufre, MZA 645 Termas de Cacheuta, MZA 639 Termas de Caimancito, JUJ 817, 832, 837 Termas de Cajón Grande, MZA 645 Termas de Centenario, SJU 683, 697 Termas de Concepción, CAT 702 Termas de Copahue, NEU See Copahue, NEU Termas de El Palmar, JUJ 817, 832 Termas de Epulafquen, NEU 406 Termas de Fiambalá, CAT 728 Termas de Incachuli, SAL 812 Termas de Pismanta, SJU See Pismanta, SJU Termas de Pompeya, SAL 809, 812 Termas de Reyes, JUJ 810, 817, 823, 829 Termas de Río Hondo, SDE 845, 858 Map 859 Termas de Saujil, CAT 728 Termas de Talacasto, SJU 678, 696, 697 Termas El Sosneado, MZA 671 Termas La Salada, MZA 664 Termas Lahuen-Có, MZA 642, 643 Termas Lavalle, CAT 726 Termas Santa Teresita, RJA 699, 701, 702 Termas Villavicencio, MZA 634, 661 Ticonte, SAL 822 Tierra del Fuego Province 585 Tierras Blancas, MZA 664 Tigre, BA 78, 222 Map 224 Tilcara, JUJ 816, 831, 839 Map 840 Tilimuqui, RJA 708 Tilisarao, SLU 626 Tinogasta, CAT 702, 735, 747, 754 Tin-Tin, SAL 782, 785, 810 Tiraxi, JUJ 831 Toay, LAP 352, 358 Tobuna, MIS 989, 993, 1021, 1026

U

Ucacha, CBA 246, 283 Ulapes, RJA 719 Unquillo, CBA 314 Uquía, JUJ 821 Ushuaia, TDF 586, 590, 592 Map 595 Uspallata, MZA 632, 636, 661, 675

V

Valcheta, RN 489 Valeria del Mar, BA 189 Valle Amanao, CAT 730, 731, 737 Valle Calamuchita, CBA 310 Valle Catamarca, CAT 747 Valle Catamarca, RJA 702 Valle Cortadera, SLU 612 Valle de Calingasta, SJU See Río de los Patos, SJU Valle de Chall-Huaco, RN 466 Valle de la Cruz, CBA 339

1059

ARGENTINA Villa de la Quebrada, SLU 622, 624 Villa de María del Río Seco, CBA 282, 326 Villa de Soto, CBA 326 Villa del Carmen, SLU 612 Villa del Dique, CBA 327 Villa del Sur, BA 129 Villa del Totoral, CBA 257, 282, 327 Villa Dolores, CBA 246, 292, 328 Villa El Chocón, NEU 416 Villa Elena, SLU 612 Villa Elisa, ER 980 Villa General Arias, BA 241 Villa General Belgrano, CBA 331 Map 333 Villa Gesell, BA 108, 228 Map 229 Villa Giardino, CBA 288 Villa Icho Cruz, CBA 334 Villa Iris, BA 241 Villa La Angostura, NEU 432, 462, 463, 464, 465, 482 Maps 435, 436 Villa la Merced, CBA 334 Villa La Serrania, CBA 252 Villa Lago Puelo, CHU 522 Villa Larca, SLU 612 Villa Las Rosas, CBA, 328, 330 Villa Libertador General San Martín, ER 981 Villa Longa, BA 125 Villa Los Aromos, CBA 252 Villa Luzuriaga, BA 241 Villa María, CBA 335 Villa Mascardi, RN 463, 482 Villa Mazán, RJA 701, 702 Villa Media Agua, SJU 678 Villa Mercedes, SLU 627 Villa Minetti, SFE 387 Villa Nougués, TUC 757, 769, 778 Villa Ojo de Agua, SDE 865 Villa Paranacito, ER 962, 982 Villa Regina, RN 494 Villa Rio Bermejito, CHA 875 Villa Rumipal, CBA 336 Villa Sanagasta, RJA 709, 716 Villa Santa Rosa, SJU 678 Villa Traful, NEU 438 Villa Tulumba, CBA 278, 279, 282, 337 Villa Unión, RJA 699, 700, 707, 719 Villa Urquiza, ER 983 Villa Ventana, BA 214 Villa Vil, CAT 726 Villaguay, ER 980 Vilú Mallín, NEU 404 Vinchina, RJA 699, 700, 720

Valle de la Luna, SJU 687 Valle de los Huskies, TDF 597 Valle de Malanzán, RJA 700 Valle de Rodeo, SJU 684 Valle de Siancas, SAL 807 Valle de Tartagal, SAL 813 Valle de Uco, MZA 635, 662, 665 Valle de Utracán, LAP 344 Valle del Jaurua, MZA 662 Valle Encantado, RN 465 Valle Encantado, SAL 782 Valle Fértil, SJU 678, 679 Valle Grande, JUJ 836 Valle Hermoso, CBA 288 Valle Hermoso, MZA 632, 641, 671 Valle Las Leñas, MZA 645 Valle Pancanta, SLU 622 Valle Quimivil, CAT 738 Valle Tierra Mayor, TDF 591, 597 Valle Vuriloche, RN 466 Vallecito, SJU 690 Vallecitos, MZA 632, 636 Vedia, BA 240 25 de Mayo, LAP 358 Veinticinco de Mayo, BA 241 Venado Tuerto, SFE 248, 383 Ventisquero Moreno, SCR 552 Veta Mina, JUJ 815 Vicente López, BA 241 Vichigasta, RJA 704 Victoria, ER 978 Victoria, MIS 996 Victorica, LAP 359 Vicuña Mackenna, CBA 315 Viedma, BA 125 Viedma, RN 445, 489 Map 491 Vieja Villa Río Hondo, SDE 865 Villa 25 de Mayo, MZA 666, 671 Villa Adelina, BA 241 Villa Alegre, CBA 275 Villa Allende, CBA 257, 275 Villa Angela, CHA 869, 872 Villa Anizacate, CBA 252 Villa Atalaya, RN 462 Villa Ballester , BA 241 Villa Berna, CBA 247, 325, 331, 334 Villa Cacique, BA 241 Villa Carlos Paz, CBA 246, 275, 296, 315 Maps 316, 323 Villa Castelli, RJA 720 Villa Chacay, CBA 305 Villa Ciudad de América, CBA 252, 325, 334 Villa Cura Brochero, CBA 295, 325 Villa de Aconquija, CAT 729

1060

INDEX Vista Flores, MZA 662, 674 Vis-Vis, CAT 726 Volcán Alumbrera, CAT 733 Volcán Antofagasta, CAT 733 Volcán Antofalla, CAT 733 Volcán Boroa, CBA 313 Volcán Carachipampa, CAT 733 Volcán Copahue, NEU 397, 399, 400 Volcán Domuyo, NEU 395, 396, 404 Volcán El Peinado, CAT 733 Volcán Lanín, NEU 391, 407, 411, 422, 430 Volcán Llullaillaco, SAL 811 Volcán Maipo, MZA 664 Volcán Negro, CAT 750 Volcán Overo, MZA 671 Volcán Poca, CBA 313 Volcán Socompa, SAL 811 Volcán Tromen, NEU 404 Volcán Velis, CBA 313 Volcán, JUJ 830 Volcán, JUJ 816, 831 Vuelta de Obligado, BA 210

W

Wanda, MIS 1014, 1021 Winifreda, LAP 360

Y

Yacanto de Calamuchita, CBA 337 Yacanto de San Javier, CBA 338 Yacyretá Apipé, COR See Complejo Hidroeléctrico Yacyretá Apipé, COR Yala, JUJ 823, 829 Yapeyú, COR 927, 930 Yaví, JUJ 834 Yerba Buena, CBA 313, 325 Yerba Buena, TUC 757, 777

Z

Zapala, NEU 22, 394, 430, 439 Map 440 Zárate, BA 234 Zonda, SJU 678, 696

1061