Travel Companion Argentina (Travel Companion Guide)

TRAVEL COMPANION

ARGENTINA SECOND EDITION

Gerry Leitner was born in Vienna, Austria, in 1935 and became fluent in English, French, and Spanish during his travels throughout Western Europe and North Africa. In 1958 he migrated to Australia, where he first worked in the outback before settling in Sydney in 1965. Gerry became fascinated by South America during his first trip there in 1976, and has returned numerous times since.

Bücher sind Deine besten Freunde, Du kannst sie für lange Zeit vernachlässigen, aber sie sind immer da wenn Du sie brauchst. Johanna Leitner, geb. Richtsfeld 1907–

TRAVEL COMPANION

ARGENTINA SECOND EDITION

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GERRY LEITNER

© 2000 Gerry Leitner

Second Edition published in 2000 by Companion Travel Guide Books, 19 Kilmorey Street, Busby N.S.W. 2168, Australia; e-mail: [email protected] ISBN 09587498-1-7 The information in this book is as up-to-date as possible, but no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by the user of this book is accepted by the author or publisher. This book is copyright. Apart from any fair dealing for the purpose of research or study, criticism, or review, no part may be reproduced by any process without written permission of Companion Travel Guide Books. Edited by Michael Wyatt, Keyword Editorial Services, 22 Kendall Street, Surry Hills, N.S.W. 2010, Australia Color maps drawn by Graham Keane, Cartodraft, 2 Barina Downs Road, Bella Vista, N.S.W. 2153 City and town maps drawn by Gerry Leitner, 19 Kilmorey Street, Busby N.S.W. 2168 Australia Cover design by Kathleen Phelps Printed by Colorcraft Limited, Kodak House phase II unit 8-9, 16th floor, 321 Java road, North Point, Hong Kong Published in USA, Canada, Mexico, the Carribean,and Central America: Hunter Publishing Inc, 239 South Beach Road, Hobe Sound Fl 33455, USA Fax 1-561-5468040 Tel 1-561-5467986; e-mail: [email protected] Color prints: Cover by Gerry Leitner, insert on front cover by kind permission of Presidencia de la Nación, Secretaría de Turismo Apart from any fair dealing for the purposes of research or private study, or criticism or review, as permitted under the relevant copyright, designs and patents acts, this publication may only be reproduced, stored or transmitted, in any form or by any means, with the prior permission in writing of the publisher. eBooks Corporation

CONTENTS ARGENTINA

INTRODUCTION 9 10 11 28

List of color maps List of symbols Introduction How to use the Travel Companion

THE REGIONS Capital Federal 38 Bueno Aires City

Pampa Provinces 106 244 341 361

Buenos Aires Córdoba La Pampa Santa Fe

Patagonia 390 444 496 544 585

Neuquén Río Negro Chubut Santa Cruz Tierra del Fuego

Cuyo Provinces 602 631 677 698

San Luis Mendoza San Juan La Rioja

North-Western Provinces 724 756 781 815

Catamarca Tucumán Salta Jujuy

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ARGENTINA Chaco Provinces 844 Santiago del Estero 867 Chaco 886 Formosa

Mesopotamia 898 Corrientes 933 Entre Ríos 985 Misiones 1028 Useful Web sites and e-mail addresses 1030 Glossary 1034 Index

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t is not an overstatement to say that compiling of this travel guide book was a mammoth task. Without the help, assistance, knowledge, and wisdom of others, this book would have never been completed. It is therefore fitting to pay tribute and mention those organizations and persons who have made this publication possible.

I

In Argentina

First of all I wish to thank Lic. Alicia M. García Tuñen, Jefe Departamento Sindit, of the Secretaría de Turismo, Presidencia de la Nación for the immense amount of data her department has made available to me.

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Provincial tourist offices •

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• • • •

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Capital Federal de Buenos Aires: Sr. Alejandro N. Jorge, Director General de Turismo, Gobierno de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires Provincia de Buenos Aires: Arq. María Cristina Pittatore, Jefe Interno, Dirección de Turismo Provincia de Buenos Aires Provincia de Catamarca: Dirección de Turismo, Subsecretaría de Turismo Catamarca Provincia de Córdoba: ° Arq. Oscar Fernando Menardi, Jefe Dpto. Información Turística, Secretaría de Turismo ° Ing. Günter Meininghaus, Villa General Belgrano Provincia de La Pampa: Sra. Carmen P. de Isequilla, Directora Prov. de Turismo, La Pampa Provincia de La Rioja: Sr. G. Gregori of the Oficina se Turismo Chilecito Provincia de Río Negro: Sr. Hector Sabato, Director General de Turismo, Provincia de Río Negro Provincia del Neuquén: Lic. Marisa Delia Castro de Creado, Directora Gral. de Desarrollo Turístico,

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• •

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Dirección Provincial de Turismo and Tec. Tur. Elma Cervera de Rondina Provincia del Chubut: ° 1. Sr. Andres L. Stewart-Harris of Transportes Don Otto ° 2. Arq. Gustavo Wofcydiez, Secretaría de Turismo y Recreación, Municipalidad de Puerto Madryn Provincia de Santa Cruz: Lic. Valeria F. Pellizza, Dirección de Atractivos Turísticos y Banco de Datos, Subsecretaría de Turismo Provincia de Tierra del Fuego: ° 1. Sr. Julio César Lovece, Director Municipal de Turismo. ° 2. Sr. Daniel Leguizamón Instituto Fueguino de Turismo ° 3. Captur, Cámara de Agentes y Prestadores de Servicios Turísticos Norte de Tierra del Fuego Provincia de San Luis: Arq. Jorge Daniel Rosenfeld, Director Provincial de Desarollo Turístico Provincia de Mendoza: ° 1. Lic. María Lila Raimondo, Andesmar ° 2. Sr. Juan Carlos Vinassa, Subdirector de Coordinación Subsecretaría de Turismo ° 3. Sr. Alfredo A. Del Giusti, Camara de Turismo Mendoza Provincia de Jujuy: Sra. María Cristina Calimani, Sec. Admin. Dirección Provincial de Turismo Provincia de Salta: Secretaría de la Gobernación de Turismo

ARGENTINA • •

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Miss Kathleen Phelps has designed a wonderful cover to wrap the text into a saleable book. My family also assisted in various ways: Tony Grey, my son-in-law took an active part in its development, Mrs. Anne Rumley read some of the chapters. My wife Karla has patiently awaited the completion of this book and deserves my thanks for her patience. Special thanks to Mr. Hubert Mühlböck, a fellow Austrian from Carinthia. He was virtually available on a 24-hour basis to assist in sorting out problems with new computer technology and programs. By his constant “prodding” he was a prime mover in bringing this project to completion; he is the “godfather” of this book.

Provincia del Chaco: Sra. Olga I.R. Marcico de Picchio, Directora de Turismo Provinca del Chaco Provincia de Misiones: Lic. Luis Alberto Spasiuk, Jefe Subsecretaría de Turismo, Gobernación and Sr. Ernesto Beling, Informes Turístico Provincia de Entrerios: Sr. Horacio A. Colacello, Servicios Turísticos, Subsecretaría de Turismo Entre Ríos

In Australia

On the home front I wish to thank my editor, Mr. Michael Wyatt who converted my ugly duckling into a readable book. On return from his trip to Argentina he also brought back valuable information.

Please write to us: Companion Travel Guide Books 19 Kilmorey Street Busby NSW 2168 Australia Telephone and fax: +61 2 9608 1169 E-mail: [email protected] Web site: http://www.companiontravel.com.au

viii

SYMBOLS A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T # U V W X Y Z

a b c d ^ e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v @ & 1 2

Festivals Tourist information Accommodation Camping Eating out Cafeterias Bars Parking Post and telegraph Post office Telephone Banks Facilities & services Clubs Churches Passports & consulates Border crossing Air services Buses Trains Water transport, Ferries Motoring and service Car rentals Service stations Tours Shopping Wineries

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Sport Hiking Skiing Caving Mountaineering Fishing Beaches, water sports Sailing Swimming Golf Tennis Bowling green Horseriding Sauna Entertainment; Nightlife Casino Sightseeing Museums Colonial and historic buildings Excursions Archeology Thermal springs Wildlife Telephone number Recommended Single room Double room

Buenos Aires seemed a city of French architecture, full of Italians who spoke Spanish and thought they were English. From “Sweat of the Sun, Tears of the Moon”, by Jack Pizzey, published by the Australian Broadcasting Corporation IANTRODUCTION RGENTINA

T

here is much, much more to Argentina than the urbane sophistication of Buenos Aires, the eighth largest city in the western world. Argentina includes a rich and varied culture, and a wealth of natural beauty which overseas visitors are only now beginning to appreciate.

For visitors to Buenos Aires with little time at their disposal, a trip further afield to the Cataratas del Iguazú (known in English as the Iguazú Falls), or the Perito Moreno glacier (depending on the season), is a must. For those tourists with more time, a visit to the north-western provinces of Salta, Jujuy, Catamarca, and Tucumán is highly recommended. For skiers, the Mendoza, Neuquén, and Río Negro provinces contain many snow resorts of world standard such as Las Leñas, Bariloche, and Cerro Chapelco. Nature lovers will find that Argentina has some of the best National Parks in South America. Hikers will find many interesting trails in the lake districts around Bariloche, the Fitzroy massif in Santa Cruz Province, or around

mighty Cerro Aconcagua in Mendoza. Visits to the provincial parks of Talampaya in La Rioja and Igualasto in San Juan and the newly created Parque Nacional Las Quijadas in San Luis Province are very worthwhile. The old mission churches of the north-west in Salta and Jujuy Provinces in particular, are also attracting growing numbers of tourists. The Jesuit remains of Misiones (such as San Ignacio Miní near Posadas) are particularly awe-inspiring, and others have still to be reclaimed from the dense undergrowth of the subtropical rain forests along the Brazilian border. Argentina is worth at least one visit …

The country and its people Modern Argentina is the child of Spain and Italy. Almost one third of

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ARGENTINA all Argentines claim Italian descent. This Latin influence has found its way into every aspect of the country’s lifestyle, including the cuisine. Only 15% of the present population is of Indian stock, and this is mostly scattered through Salta, Jujuy, Misiones, and Corrientes. Small pockets of Chaco Indians are still found in Formosa and Chaco. Argentina has a good tourist infrastructure of roads, hotels, and bus services. And in contrast to other South American countries it is fairly safe for travelers. Some parts of Argentina such as Catamarca, La Rioja, San Juan, and Jujuy are almost unknown to overseas tourists. Argentina covers 2 777 000 square km (1 068 300 square miles) — about one-third the size of the United States — and is thus the second largest country in South America, after Brazil. Situated in the south-east of the continent, Argentina shares its western border — the Andes — with Chile, and its northern borders with Bolivia and Paraguay, while Brazil and Uruguay are situated to the north-east with the border formed by the Río Uruguay. The eastern side, from the Río de la Plata to Tierra del Fuego in the south, fronts the Atlantic Ocean. In 1999, the population of 36 000 000 was concentrated in the larger urban centers. Buenos Aires proper, which contains some 4 000 000 inhabitants (and greater Buenos Aires 8 000 000), is the largest city. The next largest cities are Córdoba and Rosario (each with 1 000 000), Mendoza (620 000), La Plata (580 000), and Tucumán (500 000). Argentina includes a very wide range of climatic zones, from the

tropical to the antarctic. To the far north there are tropical regions in the provinces of Jujuy and Salta, while Misiones, Chaco, and Formosa are subtropical. The provinces between Córdoba and the Río Negro are temperate, and Tierra del Fuego is subantarctic. The snowy peaks of the Andes extend from the tropics to the antarctic, creating their own series of micro-climates. Argentina includes the highest mountain in South America (Cerro Aconcagua at 6960 m), and this means that you can find cool regions in even the most northerly provinces of Argentina up next to the Bolivian border. Further south glaciers are a striking natural feature of Santa Cruz Province and Tierra del Fuego. Spanish is the official language, but English, German, and Italian are widely spoken or understood. Argentine Spanish has been strongly influenced by Italian. Other languages preserved by ethnic communities include German, English, and Welsh (in some parts of Chubut). The Inca language Quechua is still spoken in some parts of Jujuy, Salta, Catamarca, Tucumán, and Santiago del Estero. The Guaraní language is still widely used in Misiones and Corrientes and taught at university level. Major rivers of Argentina include the Río de la Plata, with its two large tributaries the Río Uruguay and Río Paraná, and the Río Negro which is used extensively for irrigation throughout its course. The Río Paraná is navigable by large ships for most of the year as far as Corrientes. North of Corrientes it meets the Río Paraguay which is navigable for part of the year up to

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INTRODUCTION downfall of the Generals; Argentina is not a high inflation country any longer; indeed its currency, the Argentine peso, pegged to the American dollar, is one of the stablest currencies in South America. Financial and economic reform such as privatizing, and closing down loss-making or badly managed state enterprises were pursued concurrently. These measures were painful and unpopular at first. The unemployment rate is still above 10%, but with a center-left government in power it may well be assumed that this will improve. It appears the new government will continue its hard currency policy, even if the unemployment situation does not improve. Prices quoted throughout this guide are in US$ equivalents. In the wake of economic reforms money has returned to Argentina which has been used to modernize the bus companies which also went through a restructuring process. But above all money was invested to upgrade and build new hotels, especially in the luxury class. Provincial governments spent money on road infrastructure and upgrading of airports. The mineral wealth of the Andes provinces is being tapped, with new copper mine developments in Catamarca and Tucumán Provinces. Close co-operation between Argentine provinces along the border and their counterparts in Chile has created new opportunities for the tourist trade. This is particularly visible in Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. The same can be said for the rest of the border region, where many passes previously closed have been

Asunción and Puerto Suárez in Bolivia. The Yacyretá hydroelectric scheme being built on the Alto Río Paraná will create a 1600 square kilometer lake extending back to Posadas in Misiones Province and will make the Río Paraná navigable as far as Posadas in Misiones Province. Perhaps Argentina’s bestknown natural feature is the pampas. These are the large, flat grasslands extending east to west from the Atlantic Ocean almost to the Andes, and from Córdoba/Santa Fe in the north to the Río Negro. This region includes large haciendas and towns steeped in the gaucho tradition, reminiscent of the cowboys of North America. Gauchos have mixed Spanish and Indian ancestry, and are noted for their free, gipsy–cowboy lifestyle. Argentines still cling to the romantic notion that the gaucho typifies the true Argentine lifestyle. Cattle were initially brought to Argentina when Spaniards first attempted to found Buenos Aires in 1536. When the Spanish retreated back to either Asunción or Spain, the cattle they left behind proliferated in the lush pampas and grew into large herds. Cattle and wheat from the pampas were the basis of Argentina’s wealth until the early 1950s. Argentina’s population is 85% Caucasian and 15% Indian or mixed mestizo. The largest source of European migrants has been Italy, with nearly a third of all Argentines claiming to be of Italian descent. Next come migrants of Spanish, German, and French origin.

Economic conditions The economic conditions in Argentina have improved vastly since the 13

ARGENTINA reopened or new pass roads constructed.

Traces of Inca occupation are still found along the Capac Ñan or Royal Road of the Incas, which descends from southern Bolivia, traverses the province of Jujuy, and continues south along the altiplano through Salta, Catamarca, Tucumán, San Juan, and Mendoza. As a result, pockets of Quechua-speaking Indians are still found in the mountainous areas of northern Argentina.

History of Argentina Pre-Columbian (to 1492) Traces of early settlement in Argentina can be found going back some 10 000 years. Rock paintings in Patagonia and other parts of the republic bear witness to the artistry of the indigenous peoples, who were hunters and gatherers without fixed settlements. The first beginnings of permanent human settlements are found in the chaco region, and indicate that a lively interchange of ideas and goods took place between the mountain tribes to the west and the local Indians. Cultural centers did develop in Catamarca and Tucumán, and many archeological sites show that the Indians built complex agricultural communities. South American copper- and bronze-age metallurgy may well have begun in north-western Argentina. However, the relative cultural development of the Argentine tribes still varied greatly in the 17th century, and depended largely on a southward diffusion of ideas and techniques from the Tiahuanacan Empire of Bolivia and the Incan Empire of Peru. It should be remembered that hunter-gatherers were still being systematically exterminated by European settlers in Tierra del Fuego around the turn of the 19th century. From around 1450 A.D. the Peruvian Incas gradually moved southward, subduing those mountain tribes they encountered, but never gaining full control of the region.

European discovery and conquest The Spanish first set foot on Argentine soil in 1536 when Pedro de Mendoza arrived with a massive force of 1600 men and 14 ships to found the city of Buenos Aires on the banks of the Río de la Plata. After incessant attacks from the local Indians the settlement was abandoned. Most settlers sailed back to Spain, but some marched north and founded the city of Asunción, now the capital of Paraguay. Argentina’s first permanent European cities were founded from the north by Spaniards coming down from Alto Perú (Tucumán 1565) and from Chile (Mendoza 1561). Buenos Aires was refounded from Asunción in 1580 by Juan de Garay. On his way down the Río Paraná he also founded Santa Fe, now Santa Fe La Vieja (Old Santa Fe). Until the 18th century Argentina remained little more than a backwater of the Spanish colonial empire. All trading goods had to be imported and exported through Lima. In 1776, the Bourbon Kings created the Virreinato de La Plata, which drew the dividing line between Chile and Argentina at the crest of the main chain of the Andes. 14

INTRODUCTION Thus, the Cuyo provinces of Mendoza, San Luis, San Juan and La Rioja were separated from Chile and came under the jurisdiction of the Viceroy of La Plata. Buenos Aires was made the capital of this new Vice-Royalty and allowed to develop into a major commercial and administrative center, covering Paraguay, Uruguay, and parts of what is now southern Brazil. During the Napoleonic wars in Europe, Spain’s American colonies became independent for a brief period when they refused to recognize Napoleon’s brother as the new King of Spain. The colonies had become more Spanish than Spain itself, and when the Bourbons were returned to the Spanish throne after Napoleon’s defeat, a constitutional conference was held in Cádiz. This conference gave increased home rule to the American colonies, but once Ferdinand was safely installed as King of Spain he unilaterally rescinded this constitutional reform. The American colonies openly rebelled against Spain. They were helped by the British, Dutch, and French, who hoped to gain territories of their own in South America. Argentina officially broke away from Spain on May 25, 1810, when a popularly backed military junta took over from the Spanish viceroy. To this day May 25 is commemorated all over Argentina as Independence Day. It took 16 more years to completely shake off Spanish rule. Some of the bloodiest battles were fought in north-western Argentina in Jujuy near Tilcara, where royalist troops from Bolivia tried repeatedly to defeat the local independence armies.

The war produced such nationalist generals and heroes as Güemes, Peñalosa (who became known as “El Chacho”), and General Manuel Belgrano (who designed the Argentine flag), and international military leaders such as General San Martín and Simón Bolívar in Venezuela. San Martín later crossed the Andes into Chile with 16 000 men to defeat royalist troops at the Battle of Maipú. He also sailed with his troops to Peru, where he defeated a royalist army outside Ayacucho. A magnificent memorial has been erected on this battlefield, listing the names of the opposing generals and their high-ranking officers. After independence there was little real social change at first. Criollos, Spanish settlers born in Argentina, replaced civil servants from Spain, but life changed little for the indigenous peoples who had helped overthrow the Spanish. Without the disciplined Spanish bureaucracy, the newly independent states of South America fell into anarchy. The only centralized authority remained with the Army, and a series of army generals took control of Argentina as dictators. This period became known as the time of the caudillos or strong leaders, and established the tradition whereby the Argentine army believes it can intercede in national politics any time it perceives there is some internal or external security threat. One of the first caudillos was the infamous dictator Manuel de Rosas, who gained control of Buenos Aires Province in 1830 and ruled until 1851. Rosas was deposed by J.J. de Urquiza, the leading cattle baron of Entre Rios and a former army general under Rosas. (It is said that

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ARGENTINA Urquiza fathered over a hundred children and in some towns in Entre Rios the predominant name of most of the population is “Urquiza”!) The pampas Indians were conquered during the Desert Campaign (Campaña del Desierto) of 1880. This campaign preceded the large-scale settlement of “pacified” areas by European migrants, in a process identical to the bloody demise of the north American plains Indian, but less well known. By the late 19th century, the Argentine army’s wars against the Puelche Indians of the Pampas and Patagonia had removed all resistance and opened these areas to a flood of migrants from Italy, Germany, Switzerland, and France. This period saw a great expansion of Argentina’s agricultural economy. Argentina depended on the export of meat, wool, and hides (particularly to England) until after World War I and imported most of its manufactured goods. During World War II Argentina began to develop manufacturing industries. In 1943 army officers staged a coup which was intended to break foreign domination of Argentina’s emergent industries. This eventually brought J.D. Perón and his charismatic first wife Evita to power. Until his death in 1974, Perón dominated Argentine politics, even during a period of exile in Spain. After Perón’s death, Argentina plunged back into anarchy as the right-wing military took power and began waging an internal struggle against many left-wing-oriented leaders. This so-called “Dirty War” only ended when General Gualtieri resigned after waging an unsuccessful war against Britain for control of

the Falklands Islands (known in Argentina as the Malvinas). Raul Alfonsín became the first civilian president and tried to stop Argentina’s economic decline by instituting monetary reform. However his efforts were frustrated by powerful groups within the army and wealthier classes. In 1989 another free election brought to power Carlos Menem, the leader of the revamped former Peronista party. He dismantled many of the loss-making state monopolies and privatized many state enterprises and succeeded in stabilizing the economy, making the Argentine peso one of the strongest currencies in South America. He also normalized relations with Great Britain without abandoning its claim to the Falkland Islands or Malvinas. In 1999 in another election a center-left government took over, under the leadership of President De La Rúa. Jesuit missions During the 17th century, a network of Jesuit missions was set up throughout southern Brazil, Paraguay, and the northern Argentine provinces of Corrientes and Misiones. The beginning of the Jesuit mission was an accord between Don Hernando Arias de Saavedra, Governor of the then province of Paraguay, and Monsignor Reginaldo de Lizarraga, then Bishop of Paraguay. The original purpose of the missions was to convert the Guaraní Indians to Christianity, to help the natives to attain a better way of life, and at the same time to counter the infamous encomienda system whereby all Indians within a conquered territory became the serfs of their Spanish landholders. 16

INTRODUCTION The King of Spain accorded his Royal Consent in 1608 to this great social and civilizing experiment. Selected to carry out this social experiment was the Compañía de Jesús (founded by Ignacio de Loyola — see box below). In 1609 the first Jesuits, Padre Marcial Lorenzana and Francisco de San Martín arrived in Paraná, in the Guaraní homeland. In 1610 Padre Vicente Cataldino and Padre Simón Masseta went to the Río Guayra area — now in Brazil — inhabited by the Tapes people. Soon the first mission settlements were built, in what became known as the “Misiones” region. The indigenous population readily accepted the Jesuits and their work. However these missions were continually harassed by Portuguese paulistas (also called mamelucos) who captured the Indians to work as slaves in the Brazilian plantations (fazendas) to the north. Between 1627 and 1631 nine mission settlements were destroyed and some 60 000 Indians enslaved or killed. The 11 000 remaining Guaraní under the leadership of Padre Antonio Ruiz de Montoya abandoned their homelands in one great exodus to seek safety down-river. They trekked from central Brazil through the dense and difficult forest of the Río Paraná to found new settlements in southern Brazil and

Paraguay, and Argentina. About 4000 Indians survived the trek. The main missions founded were Santa María La Mayor in Brazil; Corpus Christi, San Ignacio Miní, Loreto II, Itapua, and Yapeyú in Argentina; and Natividad, Tebicuary, and San Ignacio Guazu in Paraguay. The missions were self- governed under the guidance of Jesuit padres who encouraged those Guaraní traditions which did not conflict with their Christian teachings. The Guaraní were taught agricultural methods and became skilled blacksmiths, musicians, administrators, and artists. The Guaraní language was kept alive and encouraged. The Bible was translated into Guaraní and books such as a Guaraní–Spanish dictionary were written and printed in the missions. In 1700 Loreto II had printing presses built by the natives under the supervision of Jesuits in particular Jesuits of German origin. As Argentina’s first printed books, these are now valuable library items and historically important reference works. The success and prosperity of the mission settlements attracted the envy of nearby Spanish and Portuguese settlers. The paulista raids restarted and increased, so the non-violent Guaraní enlisted Spanish mercenaries to teach them how to use firearms. They successfully

San Ignacio de Loyola was born in Guipuzcoa, northern Spain in 1491 of a noble family. He spent some years at the royal court in Madrid and became a soldier. During the assault of Pamplona he was grievously wounded and spent some time recuperating in his parents’ castle. During this convalescence period he read a lot, and motivated by reading holy scripture he gained the impression that his life was a waste so far. When he was fit again he went to the Monastery in Monserrat and left his arms there. In Manresa he wrote the Jesuits’ guidance book (Librito de Ejercicios). At 30 years of age he began to study Latin in Barcelona. He found two more friends who shared his ideals and in 1538 he founded the Compañia de Jesús in Rome.

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ARGENTINA fought off all incursions after 1641, and in 1719 five hundred Guaraní laid siege to the then Portuguese town of Colonia del Sarmiento west of Montevideo. In 1767 King Charles III of Spain signed a decree expelling the Jesuits from all Spanish territories. He had been influenced by those who opposed the mission system because it restricted European exploitation of the region, and those who were alarmed at the military strength and independence of the Guaraní and Jesuits. The missions became part of the Spanish crown and soon disintegrated without the patronage of the Jesuits. Thus ended one of the most enlightened periods of South American colonization. Today, Guaraní survives as a written and spoken language in Paraguay, and in parts of Corrientes and Misiones. The mission of San Ignacio Miní, north of Posadas, has now been restored for tourists and no visit to Misiones province is complete without visiting this magnificent remnant of the great Jesuit experiment.

Today Guaraní is taught at Corrientes university, and Misiones contains isolated Guaraní communities. When General San Martín called on Argentines to free themselves from Spanish rule in 1810, the call to arms was also written and distributed in the Guaraní language — the General himself probably spoke a smattering of Guaraní as he grew up in an ex-Jesuit mission among the Guaraní. Isolated communities of Toba Indians exist in such northern provinces as Chaco, Formosa, and Salta. In San Francisco de Laishi (Formosa) the Franciscans have a Toba mission.

Administration and government Argentina is a republic consisting of 23 provinces and the Federal district of Buenos Aires. Buenos Aires is the capital and seat of government, headed by the President. Like most Western democracies, Argentina is essentially a twoparty country. In 1989 the Partido Justicionalista government led by Carlos Menem replaced the Unión Civica Radical (U.C.R.) party of Raul Alfonsín. The new party is the re-formed Perónist Movement. Menem himself came from a Muslim family in La Rioja province, and had changed religion, as the Argentine Constitution permits only Catholics to become president. He was a flamboyant leader, but left the country in good economic shape. In 1999 new elections brought a change of government; it is now a center-left aligned Governmant under the leadership of Sr. De La Rúa.

The Indians today Of the original Indian population, only three significant groups remain. The largest group is the Guaraní, found mostly in Corrientes and Misiones The descendants of the Diaguitas are found in the north-western altiplano regions of Salta, Jujuy and Catamarca and are closely related to the Indians living in Bolivia. They engage mostly in “subsistence”mining. Small groups of Pehuenches live in reservations in Neuquén Province.

Religion The Catholic Church is the dominant faith for some 95% of the 18

INTRODUCTION Argentina, but the Chaco region of which it is part is pleasant in winter. Northern Patagonia, including Bariloche and the provinces of Neuquén and Chubut, offer some of the best skiing conditions in the world. These areas have good tourist facilities and attract growing numbers of winter sport enthusiasts. However, tourist visits to southern Patagonian provinces to see the spectacular scenery of Santa Cruz and Tierra del Fuego are limited to the summer months. Even if you go on a skiing trip you can visit the northern subtropical parts of Argentina which are pleasantly warm. There is always a season for tourists somewhere in Argentina.

population, but religious freedom is enshrined in the Constitution. Significant pockets of Protestantism occur in the larger cities, especially Buenos Aires, and include Anglican and Lutheran, as well as some Greek Orthodox and Armenian Catholic churches. The Church of Latter Day Saints is very active, and you will find a Mormon temple in virtually every large town.

The climate The Argentine mainland stretches from the tropic of Capricorn in the north, to 55° latitude in the south. Therefore, while the northern lowlands of Salta Province are tropical, most of Argentina is temperate. In the Andes, temperatures are dictated by altitude rather than latitude. It can be bitterly cold in the cordillera, while cities like Salta and Jujuy at a much lower altitude a few kilometers away may be baking under a tropical sun. One effect of the climate is the siesta. This is a northern tradition, where the heat and Spanish influence are more noticeable. Further south in the pampas or Patagonia there is no such tradition. The siesta is described more fully in the introductions to provinces where it is observed. The winter months are June to August and are mild in Buenos Aires. The north-western provinces have a wet season from November to January which may restrict traveling in outlying parts of those provinces, whereas the central provinces of Buenos Aires, Santa Fe, Córdoba, and La Pampa may be very hot indeed. In summer Santiago del Estero registers the highest temperature in

Getting to and from Argentina Air travel As already mentioned, for most visitors the main point of entry to Argentina is Buenos Aires. Travel Companion Argentina concentrates on Argentina. It is therefore beyond the scope of this book to provide a list of travel agents or airline companies who offer the best travel deals in your home country. I have concentrated on giving as much information as possible on internal flights within Argentina. Suffice it to say that Buenos Aires has between 40 and 50 plane arrivals weekly from Europe, and 30 to 40 weekly from North America. From Australia and New Zealand there are three weekly flights. The Argentine national carrier is Aerolíneas Argentinas and flies to Canada, USA, England, Germany, France, Australia, New Zealand, Switzerland, Italy, and Spain. The major airlines are listed under Air services in 19

ARGENTINA the Buenos Aires City chapter; see page 64.

From Buenos Aires Province From Tigre, a passenger ferry crosses the Paraná–Uruguay delta to Carmelo. See page 223 From Entre Ríos • Bridges across the Río Uruguay, open 24 hours, include a link between Gualeguaychú and Fray Bentos, and the General Artigas Bridge between Colón and Paysandú. See Border crossing from Gualeguaychú on page 960 and from Colón on page 938 • You can cross from Concordia to Salto, either by passenger ferry (the passport control at the ferry terminal operates only while there are ferries running) or by bus over the Salto Grande Bridge which is open 24 hours a day. See Water transport on page 950 •

Visa requirements No visas are necessary for citizens of EU countries, Japanese, Canadians, United States citizens, and Australian passport holders; New Zealanders must obtain a visa — this is best done from their home country before departure. It is also suggested to obtain visas for neighboring countries such as Uruguay, Brasil, Chile and Bolivia should they be required. At the entry point you will be issued a 90 days’ tourist card which can be renewed for another 90 days. On leaving Argentina this card is handed in. Extensions to these 90-day visas can be obtained in major cities from Migraciones in cities such as Córdoba, Mendoza, and Salta, which are listed in this guidebook in the relevant cites under “Visas, passports”. During my prolonged research trips I found it much easier to cross the border into a neighboring country and obtain a new stamp which lets you stay another 90 days.

Border crossings into Brazil From Misiones Day excursions from the Brazilian side of the Iguazú Falls to Puerto Iguazú in Argentina do not require a visa. • At Puerto Iguazú you cross the Río Iguazú to Foz do Iguaçu by the Presidente Tancred Neve bridge. See Border crossing on page 1018 • There are ferry links from San Javier to Porto Lucenas, from Alba Posse to Porto Magua • There is a land crossing from Bernardo de Irigoyen to Dionisio Cerqueira. See Border crossing on page 993 From Corrientes • Paso de los Libres is linked to Uruguaiana by a modern bridge, open 24 hours. See Border crossing on page 925

Border crossings At the time of writing there were more than 30 authorized border crossings. Most of the high-altitude passes into Chile are subject to adverse weather conditions. Border crossings into Uruguay From Buenos Aires City Hovercraft and ferries travel from Buenos Aires to Colonia and Montevideo, and there is a vehicle ferry to Montevideo which crosses in about 4 hours. The ferry terminal provides passport control.

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INTRODUCTION •

The marshy border between Argentina and Paraguay along the Río Pilcomayo is not well defined because the river here is ever-shifting. There are no border crossings in this area.

There is a new bridge over the Río Uruguay from Santo Tomé to Sao Borja. See page 929

Border crossings into Paraguay From Misiones • To get from Puerto Iguazú to Punta del Este in Paraguay, you must first cross over the Tancred Neve Bridge to Foz do Iguaçu in Brazil, and cross the Ponte de Amistad from there to Ciudad del Este (formerly Puerto Presidente Stroessner). There are no direct ferry connections over the Río Alto Paraná between Puerto Iguazú and Paraguay. See Border crossing on page 1018 • There is a bridge over the Río Alto Paraná from Posadas to Encarnación. See Border crossing on page 1009 From Corrientes • A ferry runs between Paso de la Patria and Paso de la Patria in Paraguay over the Río Paraná. See Water transport on page 924 • When the Yacyretá hydroelectric scheme is completed there will be a new bridge crossing over the Río Paraná. See Excursions from Ituzaingó on page 918 From Formosa • You can get from Clorinda to Asunción by the Puente Internacional Ignacio de Loyola over the Río Pilcomayo, or travel by ferry from Puerto Pilcomayo to Ita Enramada across the Río Paraguay. See Excursions on page 889 and Water transport on page 888 • From the city of Formosa itself, a ferry runs to Isla Alberdi across the Río Paraguay. See Border crossing on page 891

Border crossings into Bolivia From Pocitos (also known as Profesor Salvador Mazza) in Salta, there is a land-crossing to Yacuiba, and from Agua Blanca there is a bridge across the Río Bermejo to Pozos Bermejo. See page 793 • In Jujuy there is a bridge between La Quiaca across the Río La Quiaca to Villazón. See page 832 •

Border crossings into Chile If you are entering from Chile you will find Argentine consulates in Santiago, Puerto Montt, Puntas Arenas, Arica, and Antofagasta. A series of high mountain passes cross the Andes between Argentina and Chile. These may be closed by bad weather, and you should check with the Automóvil Club Argentino (A.C.A.) before attempting them. The sequence of border crossings into Chile is described from north to south. From Jujuy • Paso de Jama. This is a new pass linking Jujuy with Antofagasta via San Pedro de Atacama in neighboring Chile. The road has been upgraded on both sides of the border and is the latest in scenic Andean crossings. Buses Tramaca runs two bus services per week from Antofagasta via Calama and San Pedro de Atacama to Jujuy. See Border crossing in Susques on page 838; and also the companion volume Travel Companion Chile and Easter 21

ARGENTINA Centenario and on the Chilean side in Juntas. The pass road starts after Iglesia. See International mountain passes in San Juan Province on page 678; and also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región IV de Coquimbo” From Mendoza • Paso de la Cumbre (the Chileans call it Paso del Bermejo), altitude 3860 m, is open 08:30–20:00 in summer. The former pass road has been replaced by a tunnel under the border. This pass connects the cities of Mendoza and Santiago in Chile. The Argentine border post is at Punta de Vacas, the Chilean border control is 10 km east of Portillo. In winter, snow chains are compulsory and heavy snowfalls may close the pass temporarily. This a very scenic drive especially on the Chilean side. It is the most important border crossing between Argentina and Chile and is open 24 hours all year round. See Mountain passes to Chile in Mendoza Province on page 632; and also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región V de Valparaíso” • Paso del Maule or Paso Pehuenche between San Rafael and Talca in Chile is open in summer. The distance from Talca on RI 115 to the border is 180 km and from the border to San Rafael 345 km. There are no regular bus services apart from tourist buses The pass road starts at Bardas Blancas. The pass is closed in winter. See Mountain passes to Chile in Mendoza Province on page 632; and also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island , “Región VII del Maule”

Island, “Región II de Antofagasta” From Salta • The Paso de la Laguna Sico replaces the Paso de Huaitiquina between Salta via San Antonio de los Cobres and Antofagasta in Chile; altitude 4089 m. The road is frequently cut in winter. The road on the Argentine side is also much improved as far as San Antonio de los Cobres, where Argentine passport control is located. Chilean passport control, open between sunrise and sunset, is in San Pedro de Atacama. If the bus from Argentina is delayed, carabineros are on duty late at night. See Excursions from Salta on page 809; and also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región II de Antofagasta” From Catamarca • Paso de San Francisco is at an altitude of 4726 m on RN 31, connecting La Rioja with Copiapó. Open from sunrise to sunset, but usually closed in winter as heavy snowfalls make the road impassable between June and September. RN 31 from Tinogasta in Catamarca Province is now completely paved right up to the Chilean border. On the Chilean side it is less developed. Argentine passport control is at La Grotto. See Excursions from Fiambalá on page 750; and also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región III de Atacama” From San Juan • Paso del Agua Negra, altitude 4775 m, between San Juan and La Serena, was reopened for tourist traffic in 1991. Passport control on the Argentine side is in Baño

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INTRODUCTION in good condition. Chilean border control is in Puerto Pirehueico at the boat ramp. There are regular buses from Hua Hum to San Martín. It is more interesting, however, to make the scenic trip by boat across the Lago Lacar, enclosed by steep mountains. See Water transport from San Martín de los Andes on page 424; and also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island , “Región IX de la Araucania” • Portezuelo de Puyehué, altitude 1308 m, connects Bariloche with Osorno in Chile. The pass remains open all year round: in summer 08:00–24:00; in winter 08:00–17:00. This is another very scenic trip. This is the second most important border crossing between the two countries, especially in the summer tourist season. On the Chilean side the road runs through the Parque Nacional Puyehué and on the Argentine side through Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi. There is regular public transport from Osorno to San Carlos de Bariloche. This pass is open all year. See also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región X de los Lagos” From Río Negro • Paso de Pérez Rosales, altitude 1022 m, connects Puerto Montt with Bariloche. Although some snow falls in winter, the pass is open all year round 08:30–18:30. This outstanding scenic drive can be made only with a tour operator starting in Bariloche. The trip, which takes 11 hours, alternates six times between road and lake transport. See Andean mountain passes in Río Negro Province on

From Neuquén • Paso de Pino Hachado, altitude 1884 m, located on Ruta R-89, connects Temuco with Zapala in Argentina. It is closed in winter from the end of May to October. Chilean Border control is at Liucura, open from 08:30–16:30. There are regular buses between Temuco and Zapala and Neuquén in Argentina. See page 439; and also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región IX de la Araucania” • Paso de Icalma, altitude 1298 m, open 08:30–16:30. This alternative route from Temuco to Zapala in Argentina may be closed in winter because of heavy snow. This is a scenic drive especially in Argentine where the road skirts Lago Aluminé and passes Primeros Pinos, a fledgling tourist resort. See page 421; and also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región IX de la Araucania” • Paso Tromen (Chileans call it Paso Mamuil Mallal), altitude 1207 m, open 08:30–18:30; closed in winter; connects Junín de los Andes with Temuco in Chile. Regular buses run between Temuco and Junín in summer. See Excursions from Junín de los Andes on page 411; and also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región IX de la Araucania” • Paso Hua Hum, altitude 659 m, between San Martín de los Andes and Valdivia in Chile; open all year round 08:00–17:30. This border crossing is recommended to tourists because of its scenic beauty. The gravel road from Hua Hum to Puerto Pirehueico is

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ARGENTINA page 446 and Excursions from Bariloche on page 462; and also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región X de los Lagos” From Chubut • Futaleufú in Chile, altitude 515 m, connects Esquel with the port of Chaitén in Chile. Chilean passport control is open 08:30–17:00. The Argentine border control is a short distance before the bridge over the Río Futaleufú. See Border crossing in Trevelín on page 541; also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región X de los Lagos” • Paso Carrenleufú, also known as Paso Palena, altitude 1200 m, connects Esquel with Chaitén in Chile. It is difficult for foreign passport holders to use this crossing, because the Argentines consider it an official pass only for Chilean and Argentine ID card holders living in the border area. This may have changed, but do not be surprised if you are stopped at the border. If crossing here, report to the authorities in Esquel to get an entry stamp. The route from Chaitén in Chile is the same as the one for the Futaleufú crossing as far as Puerto Ramírez. At Puerto Ramírez, continue on RN 235 to Palena. The 152 km gravel road to Palena lacks bridges, and is cut by snow occasionally in winter. Palena to the border is a further 8 km. The Río Encuentro forms the border between the two countries. There are no public buses from the border to Palena — the carabineros on the Chilean side will usually help. Public transport runs three times a week directly from Esquel to the Argentine border

control post, via Corcovado. The border is open from sunrise to sunset all year round, weather permitting. The nearest accommodation is in Palena in Chile and Trevelín in Argentina. See Corcovado on page 507; and also Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región X de los Lagos” From Santa Cruz • Cross from Perito Moreno to Chile Chico. This trip requires fording a river some 400m wide (not very deep, but extremely cold). See Excursions from Perito Moreno on page 569; and Chile Chico in Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región XI de Aisén” • From Río Turbio, cross to Puerto Natales using the Paso Mina Uno going past the new skiing area. See Border crossing at Río Turbio on page 584; and also Puerto Natales in Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región XI de Aisén” From Tierra del Fuego • Control Fronterizo de San Sebastián, altitude 296 m, open from sunrise to sunset all year round, with occasional interruptions due to bad weather. This pass connects Porvenir with Río Grande. Ruta Y-71 to the border is 149 km and is mostly a dirt road. From the border to Río Grande is a further 107 km. The road is being upgraded on the Argentine side and about 40 km north of Río Grande becomes sealed. There are regular bus service between Porvenir and Río Grande; indeed there are now bus connections between Punta Arenas and Río Grande. See also Border crossing in San Sebastián

24

INTRODUCTION on page 591; and Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island , “Región XII de Magallanes”, entry for San Sebastián

areas of Tucumán, Salta, and Catamarca with the pre-Hispanic ruins of Quilmes are another tourist “must”.

Railroads

What to take

The deficit-ridden railroad corporations have been privatized and the passenger services to many remote provinces have been slashed. Most of the former railroad lines emanating from Buenos Aires are now only commuter lines to the suburbs or greater Buenos Aires. TUFESA runs long-distance passenger services to Tucumán via Rosario and Santiago del Estero departing from Retiro station. There are still passenger services to the seaside resorts of Mar del Plata and Necochea and also to Bahía Blanca leaving from Constitución station. From Miserere station there are passenger trains to Santa Rosa in La Pampa Province. Trains are in general cheaper than bus services for the same route but slower.

Argentina is a modern country with ready access to most items found in North America or Europe — but at a price. All imported goods are expensive: cameras, films, cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, tape cassettes for mini-recorders, and so on. As a rule it can be said if an item is available in Frankfurt, London, or New York, then you will find it in Buenos Aires. When traveling into the interior, most basic travelers’ needs can be purchased in the provincial capitals. Further out from Buenos Aires such as in Patagonia south of Comodoro Rivadavia or in the north-west, local lifestyles become more basic still, and you should pre-purchase any special travel commodities you require to allow for this.

Tourism

Getting around the cities and towns

Argentina has only recently been discovered by tourists. It is very popular with visitors from Europe, and especially those from Italy or those German-speaking countries which have provided Argentina with migrants in the past. Argentina is the ideal summertime destination for vacationers fleeing from winters in the northern hemisphere. Overseas visitors should include on their itinerary the Iguazú Falls (Cataratas del Iguazú) and the Jesuit mission ruins in Misiones; and the Península Valdés in Chubut with its sea-lion, whale, and seal colonies. The Perito Moreno Glacier in Santa Cruz Province and the Calchaquí

Street names and city blocks Most Argentine cities were established on the usual Spanish rectangular grid pattern: centered on a Plaza, usually named after San Martín. From the central plaza main roads radiate to outer suburbs. Street intersections create city blocks or cuadras. Each block out from the center starts numbering in divisions of a hundred, though some towns in Entre Ríos Province start each block in divisions of fifty. Hence the first block of any street radiating from the central plaza is block zero with numbers from 1 to 100; the second block until

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ARGENTINA the next cross street is block 100, with numbers running from 101 to 200; and so on. Wherever you are in a city district you can work out exactly how many blocks you are away from the center and accordingly decide whether to walk, hail a taxi, or take a bus. Argentines adore their heroes, so it is not surprising to find the same street names used repeatedly. For example, the name of San Martín, who brought independence to Argentina, Chile, and Peru is often used to name the main street, but can appear in the form of El Libertador or General José de San Martín. Other favorites include General Belgrano (another Independence War general), General Urquiza who toppled dictator Rosas, Sarmiento (a president and scholar), H. Yrigoyen (a former president), and General Roca (a General in the Desert Campaign). The spelling of names on street signs can vary in the same street — many a street in a northern town is undecided between “Yrigoyen” (Hipólito) and “Irigoyen” (Bernardo de)!

Updates will be available on our Web site: www. companiontravel.com.au

Road services in Argentina The naming system There are two sets of road systems: national and provincial. Rutas Nacionales or national roads are maintained by the national government and are indicated as “RN” followed by a number. Provincial roads are maintained by the provinces and are indicated in the text as “RP” followed by a number. Argentina has a few “autopistas”, mostly in and around the capital Buenos Aires and one going north to Rosario and Santa Fe; they are tollways. However, tolls are also payable on some rutas nacionales. Argentines, like the rest of South America, drive on the right-hand side, and wearing seat belts is compulsory. Many national roads are measured from “Kilómetro Cero” (Kilometer Zero) located in Plaza de Mayo in Buenos Aires. Addresses It is common for hotels in isolated areas to use “KM” as part of their address, followed by the highway number. In the case of “RP” (for “Ruta Provincial”) this indicates the distance of an address from the provincial capital; and in the case of “RN” (for “Ruta Nacional”) the distances are from the national capital of Buenos Aires.

Future editions Local correspondents in many towns are providing a constant update of this guidebook, but it is the discerning eye of the traveler who we should like to let us know if any part of this book needs revision: so please write to us. This book is written with the intention of helping travelers make the best of their stay in this beautiful country, and by helping us to achieve this aim you are helping future travelers.

Bus services in Argentina Buenos Aires of course is the hub for all bus transport in Argentina, closely followed by Córdoba. Here are a few of the major bus companies and regions they serve:

26

INTRODUCTION •

•

•

•

•

•

Andesmar: A Mendoza-based company with services spanning Argentina from Pocitos (otherwise known as Profesor Salvador Mazza) on the Bolivian border to Río Gallegos in Patagonia via Córdoba. Services from their home base in Mendoza radiate south to Bariloche via Neuquén and north to Salta via La Rioja, Catamarca, and Tucumán. They are also a major tour operator with summer services to Chile, and they are also a passenger airline operator Don Otto: South to Patagonian destinations — from Buenos Aires to Río Negro, Chubut, and Santa Cruz. Their home base is Chubut Province, with an extensive network of services throughout this province to the Andes region General Urquiza: Services from Buenos Aires to central and north-western destinations such as Córdoba, La Rioja, and Catamarca La Veloz del Norte: Central and north-western destinations such as Córdoba, Santiago del Estero, Tucumán, Salta, and Jujuy Singer: Services from Buenos Aires north-east through Mesopotamia to Puerto Iguazú; most of their services are along the Río Uruguay. From their home base in Misiones Province they run buses to neighboring Brazilian destinations

•

T.A. Chevallier: Services from Buenos Aires to Bariloche via Santa Rosa and Neuquén; to Mendoza via San Luis; and to Salta via Córdoba, Santiago del Estero, and Tucumán T.A.C. (Transportes Autmotores del Cuyo): A Mendoza-based bus operator running buses through the Cuyo regions to the north-western regions. From their home base in Mendoza they run services to Río Gallegos in deepest Patagonia

Thermal resorts Abundant thermal water surfaces along the Cordillera de los Andes as a result of Argentina’s highly volcanic topography. But thermal spas exist or are developing also in non-volcanic areas such as Entre Ríos, Buenos Aires, and the Chaco. The major thermal resorts are: • Termas de Río Hondo in Santiago del Estero Province; see page 858 • Termas de Copahue in Neuquén Province; see page 397 • Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña in Chaco Province; see page 871 • Termas de Cacheuta in Mendoza Province; see page 636 • Termas de Pismanta in San Juan Province; see page 683 • Rosario de la Frontera, Salta Province; see page 793 • Catamarca Province has many hot springs but none with any facilities; see Fiambalá and Tinogasta on pages 749 and 754

27

HOW TO USE THE TRAVEL COMPANION ARGENTINA H OW TO USE

s a convenient reference point, we have assumed that most tourists will enter Argentina by air, through Buenos Aires. The Travel Companion starts with Buenos Aires and is then subdivided into seven sections, for each of the seven main regions, moving counter-clockwise from Buenos Aires down the South Atlantic coast, back up the Andes, and then eastwards across to Buenos Aires again.

A

Regions Each of the seven main subdivisions used here corresponds to some geographical, historical, or cultural region: • Buenos Aires city and environs (the Capital Federal) • The Pampa provinces, which include Argentina’s major agricultural hinterland, made up of the vast plains or pampas of Buenos Aires and La Pampa provinces • Patagonia — Argentina south of the Río Negro, including the Province of Tierra del Fuego • The Chaco provinces — Those provinces of Argentina in the Chaco, the tropical and subtropical rainforests and the savannas of the central northern region

•

•

•

which extend northward into Bolivia and Paraguay The Cuyo provinces — The mid-continental desert regions, east of the Andes (originally part of the Vice-Royalty of Chile) Mesopotamia — The isolated north-eastern provinces between the Río Paraná and the Río Uruguay The north-western provinces — The area first permanently settled by Indians and the Spanish

Provinces All provinces within each region are described separately. Each province begins with a table of cities and towns, each with a series of symbols

28

HOW TO USE town in the vicinity, usually under “Accommodation”,"Eating out", or “Camping”, indicating the distance and providing a brief description. Towns are listed in the order of the English alphabet — that is to say, “Ch” and “Ll” are treated as they are in English, not as in Spanish. Following the practice of the maps issued by the Automóvil Club Argentina, a space within a name files before the letter “A”, so that “La Población” precedes “Laboulaye”. In some provinces when there are a lot of small places with facilities but nothing else I have collected them under the heading “Stopovers” at the end of the chapter. Indicated here is the nearest town fully described and the facilities, usually only accomodation but in some cases eating out and transport. The table is followed by a general introduction to the province. An explanation of the symbols used in the Travel Companion is given on page 10. The name of each region and province is given at the head of every page; and on every page opening the last town named is given at the foot of the page. Cities and towns listed in this Travel Companion provide a wide range of attractions for the visitor, such as cultural, historical, and sporting facilities. All times are given according to the 24-hour clock. Important towns may be known by two names, especially where that town is also a provincial capital: the longer form is often the official name. I have used the shorter version in this guide. Examples: • Tucumán’s official name is San Miguel de Tucumán

indicating the facilities and attractions available. Each chapter first provides an overview: a detailed list of places described, together with symbols indicating the facilities and features to be found in each town, an introductory section describing its size, location, history, topography, economy, climate, transport, national parks, thermal resorts, and best tourist destinations. This is followed by descriptions of cities and towns and national parks or reserves in alphabetical order. In each entry an opening section details the altitude, population, postal code, telephone area code, and distances from other cities and towns: for provincial capitals this distance is from Buenos Aires; for smaller cities and towns the distance is to the provincial capital and sometimes other nearby cities. This distance indicator is a rough guide to where bus services originate for particular destinations in this province. Large cities like Buenos Aires and Mar del Plata may be subdivided into barrios or geographical sections to make the entries (such as “Accommodation” and “Eating out”) easier to follow.

Cities and towns Places are included as major tourist towns if they fulfill one of the following criteria: • there is something of interest there • there are tourist facilities, in particular accommodation, eating places, and transport • the place is en route to a place of interest and suitable for a stopover. In many cases I have included a small place within the text of a larger 29

ARGENTINA •

These are then followed by indicaCatamarca’s official name is San tors for airlines, currency exchange Fernando del Valle de Catamarca facilities, accommodation, and • Jujuy’s official name is San Salvapoints of interest such as museums dor de Jujuy and monuments. • Bariloche’s official name is San Travel Companion Argentina is Carlos de Bariloche designed to help travelers find eatWhere possible, bureaux de change ing places, accommodation, bus ser(cambios) are listed so you can cash vices, or gas stations wherever they travelers’ checks as you proceed may be in Argentina. Some places around Argentina. At the time of going to print, one Argentinian peso may have these amenities only and (“$”) equals one US dollar. Prices little else of interest; these towns quoted throughout this guide are in have been included as “Stopovers” US dollar equivalents, as these at the end of each provincial chapter. should not vary much. The accommodation and restauChanging travelers, checks is rants in large towns are not fully no problem in the bigger cities. covered, but all facilities are listed However, with the advent of “plasfor small country towns. This guidetic money” I recommend using ATM book encourages you to venture befacilities — every major town now yond the “normal” tourist circuit. Travelers often avoid places because has at least one ATM. they think there is nowhere to stay, The information for each town but locations off the beaten track has been itemized under up to 23 may reveal something of particular sections; not all sections appear uninterest. With this Travel Companion, der all towns. To facilitate scanning, you should not feel stranded anyeach section heading has an identiwhere in Argentina. If it is not alfying symbol; these symbols are ready in this book, I should like to listed on page 10. hear about it. To help you find your way When I have stayed at a hotel, around the major towns or tourist & eaten at a restaurant, or used some centers, 160 street maps are infacility, and particularly enjoyed it cluded. These street maps show the or found it excellent value or the main points of interest, which are staff exceptionally helpful, I have numbered and explained in accommarked the entry with a pointing panying keys. Letters are affixed to hand & to indicate a personal recomeach map and the key to the map: mendation. • A main cathedral or church • B Casa de Gobierno or Provincial Index House of Assembly At the end of the Travel Companion is • C Municipalidad or Town Hall an index to all the places mentioned • D post office in the Companion. Each place name • E telephone referred to in the Index appears in • G market the text in bold type. To get the most • H hospital out of the index, read the “Introduc• I tourist information tion” to the index carefully. • P gas stations, usually A.C.A. The index is an almost complete • T bus terminal reference to all places and towns in 30

HOW TO USE listing for each town. It is laid out to resemble a typical entry. Entries may be for a city, a town, a national park or reserve, or even a “Cajón” — a river system in the high Andes.

Argentina which may be of interest to a tourist.

Sample entry The following explains how to use the information provided in the

TOWN OR CITY NAME Population: Postal code: @ area code: Altitude: Distances: For provincial capital cities the distance from Buenos Aires is given. For smaller towns, the distance is given from other major centers, together with the highway numbers of the recommended routes: “RN” for “Ruta Nacional” (or “National Highway”), and “RP” for “Ruta Provincial” (or “Provincial Highway”). All distances are in kilometers

I

ntroductory information, giving where appropriate the location, brief history and description, items of interest in the locality, and instructions on how to get there.

A Festivals

B Tourist information

Local fiestas are listed, together with the dates when they are held. Fiestas usually honor the patron saint or foundation of a particular city. A brief description of the festivities and historic origin are usually given. Some people like fiestas; others prefer to avoid them as hotels may be full and the banks closed. Some festivals held in nearby villages are also included. Official holidays in Argentina: • January 1 • Good Friday • May 1: Labor Day • May 25: Independence Day • June 10: Día de las Islas Malvinas (Malvinas Day) • June 20: Día de la Bandera (Flag Day) • July 9: Día de la Independencia (Independence Day) • August 17: Muerte del General San Martín (anniversary of General San Martín’s death) • October 12: Día de la Raza (celebration of membership of the family of Hispanic and Portuguese peoples) • December 25: Navidad (Christmas Day)

Official city and provincial tourist information centers and offices (or Casas de Turismo) are listed indicating office hours @/fax numbers, and in some cases e-mail addresses or Web pages. Other sources are National Parks and Wildlife Services and mountaineering clubs. In the Buenos Aires City chapter I have included a list of tour operators that organize guided tours to remote areas.

C Accommodation

Listings for each city include those hotels recommended by their respective provincial tourist offices. Accommodation is listed primarily in alphabetical order but “star establishments” are placed first. In addition, Residenciales have been assigned an alphabetical rating from A through C. For large towns the list starts with a fairly comprehensive but selective list of accommodation in the center; in very large towns accommodation is listed by suburbs or by geographical areas. In smaller towns and villages all accommodation is listed where known.

31

ARGENTINA Key to map A B

C D E F G H

Iglesia Gobernación Provincial (Government) Municipalidad (Town hall) Post Office and Telex Telephone Policia (Police) Mercado Municipal Hospital

I P $ T 3 4 5 6

Tourist information Service stations; A.C.A. Money exchange Bus terminals Accommodation Eating out Entertainment Airline offices

7 Tour operators and car rental 8 Bus companies 9 Sights 0 Services L Financial B Casas de Provincia - Subte stations in Buenos Aires

•

Hospedaje — Cheaper lodgings, usually a type of residencial, but not officially recognized An address is given for each hotel, followed by symbols showing facilities available — see the “Service codes” box below. Telephone numbers, and rates for double rooms 2 and single rooms 1 are listed where known. Where appropriate, separate rates are given for full board (all meals) and half board (breakfast only). When a hotel’s normal rate includes breakfast, this is indicated. For budget-minded travelers and young people, we have listed the budget accommodation (private accommodation and residenciales) which is normally situated near bus terminals and train stations. Those which only have basic facilities have been specifically noted as being suitable for backpackers or budget travelers. See “Price range codes” on page 33. For sm aller outlying towns all available accommodation has been listed.

Each listing is graded by type of accommodation: Apart hotels, Hotels, Hosterías, Residenciales, Hospedajes, Motels, Cabañas, and private accommodation. The terms are all explained in the Glossary beginning on page 1030. Hotels have been assigned a star rating by appropriate local authorities, and are arranged here in decreasing star number order. Ratings can vary between provinces, so it is best to check in the tourist office in the provincial capital. As a guide, five stars in Argentina is about the same as four stars in the US or Europe. But international chains are on a par with their European or North American counterparts. Classifications used for accommodation include: • Hostería — A smaller version of an hotel, with up to 20 bedrooms. Coded by up to three stars • Residencial — Officially-recognized cheap accommodation. It is coded A, B, or C, A being the best

C Accommodation — Service codes

Sernatur has established a set of symbols to denote services provided at places of accommodation. I have expanded those symbols further and these symbols have been used in the “Accommodation” sections and to a lesser extent the “Camping” sections throughout this book. N Children’s games A Hot water O Tour organizer B Kitchenette P Private bathroom C Bar fridge R Swimming pool D TV in room S Breakfast included E Cafeteria $ Money exchange for guests F Restaurant T Telephone in room G Bar U Room service H Parking V Heating provided I Luggage stored W Open in season only J Lounge X Disco K Credit cards accepted Y Air-conditioning L Laundry service and/or facilities Z Pickup service, and/or car rental M Conference room

32

HOW TO USE C Accommodation — Price range codes

Accommodation in apartments, cabañas, hotels, hosterías, motels, residenciales, pensiones, and private accommodation are indicated by means of price range codes, usually for doubles. Note that the symbol 1 indicates that the price is for a single room; and the symbol 2 indicates that the price is for a double room. $A Over $250.00 2 $B $200.00–$249.00 2 $C $150.00–$199.00 2 $D $100.00–$149.00 2 $E $75.00–$99.00 2 $F $50.00–$74.00 2 $G $35.00–$49.00 2 $H $20.00–$34.00 2 $I $10.00–$19.00 2 $J $5.00–$10.00 2

D Camping

Restaurants in nearby towns or outside the periphery of the town are also indicated. In many cases some good restaurants are located on by-pass roads. The main meal of the day in Argentina is supper, and usually starts from 21:00 and goes until the early hours of the following morning. It is not unusual to order a full dinner at 1 am. Cheap meals are usually available from cafeterias, bars, and pizzerías, as well as from kiosks in bus terminals and train stations.

Camping is popular in Argentina, and there are many camping sites, often on the outskirts of cities and usually with overnight vans for hire. In many of the national or provincial parks there are good camping facilities. Camping sites on maps are shown with the symbol for accommodation

E Eating out

Restaurant listings for the larger cities may seem comprehensive, but are not exhaustive — they are intended to show you the range of eating facilities available to travelers. In larger cities this section is divided into districts to help you locate nearby eating places. Where known, eateries are further classified into restaurants (including parrillas or steak houses), pizzerías, cafeterías, and cafés. Where a restaurant specializes in a particular cuisine, this is indicated, for example “Parrilla”, “Seafood”, “Italian cuisine”, “Vegetarian”. Where known we have indicated a price range code; see “Price range codes” below. However, breakfast should cost between $2.50 and $5.00, lunch between $8.00 and $12.00, and a full dinner between $15.00 and $25.00. A main meal in a fancy restaurant should cost about $35.00.

n Entertainment

Entertainment includes lists of discos, restaurants with dancing or shows — especially tango shows — nightclubs and casinos. Theaters and cultural centers are also included here.

I Post and telegraph Post offices Post and telegraph services are provided by the state-owned company Encotel, also known as Correo Argentino. With the deregulation of formerly state-controlled organizations there are now many private mail services. The best known private carriers are Andreani Int e r n a t i o n a l (@ 4 3 0 1 2 0 0 2 ) , O C A

E Eating out — Price range codes $X $Y $Z

Over $20.00 $11.00–$20.00 Under $10.00

Recommended for de luxe travelers Recommended for intermediate travelers Recommended for budget travelers

33

ARGENTINA Banks and casas de cambio usually have multilingual staff. Those banks in provincial capitals which give cash against a Visa card or have automatic teller machines (ATM’s) are indicated. It should be noted that some establishments when accepting a credit card add the cost charged to them by the financial institutions. On the other scale are establishments which give you a discount if you are paying cash. When making purchases or inquiring about accommodation, ask.

(@ 47887777), and DHL Expreso Mundial (@ 43470600), both offering international parcel express services; they have offices in every major town. Correo Argentino charges $1.25 for an international letter; OCA charges $3.50 for an international letter. Telephones The Argentine telephone service has been privatized and is now in the hands of two companies: Telecom and Telefónica Argentina. Argentina has been divided into three telephone zones: Capital Federal (including greater Buenos Aires) and a southern and northern region. The telephone system has been vastly improved over the past ten years, but is still bursting at the seams. International calls at the time of writing are (per minute): USA US$0.92, Australia US$3.80, England US$1.55. For telephone service information ring 110; all operators speak English. Phone cards may be purchased from newsagents, tobacconists, some bars, and hotel cashiers. Calls from hotels are usually more expensive and it is better to use a locutorio (a shopfront callbox) even if the wait is longer. Each town’s telphone area prefix code is indicated: @ code. For locations included in a town but with a different telephone area code I indicate the full number to dial. E-mail Many cyber-cafés have sprung up all over Argentina, but is is difficult to include them here as they come and go like the migratory birds. On page 1028 I have listed handy e-mail addresses, including a few cyber-cafés.

M Services

Here are listed addresses for laundromats, equipment hire, supermarkets, and other services and facilities. Hospital and medical facilities are listed for major towns.

N Clubs

National clubs are listed by nationality. Many of these clubs serve meals.

O Churches

Every town has one or more Catholic churches, invariably in a central location. For this reason under “churches“ the Travel Companion lists Protestant or Orthodox churches only. The major Catholic church in a town is often listed under “Sightseeing”: in larger cities this is usually a cathedral dating back to the city’s foundation. Cathedrals are usually an historical feature, particularly for cities such as Córdoba, Tucumán, and Santiago del Estero.

P Visas, passports

Provincial capitals often have consulates for other countries, particularly for those states neighboring Argentina. Capitals in border provinces have a Migración office where visa renewal applications may be lodged.

L Financial

Here are listed facilities where money and travelers’ checks can be exchanged. Casas de cambio usually give you a better exchange rate than the banks. Some institutions do not accept travelers’ checks, and others may accept a particular type only. When planning your trip, it is a good precaution to refer to the “Financial” section in each town you plan to visit, so you know where money exchange facilities are available. This is particularly important on trips to Patagonia and to the north-western provinces.

Q Border crossing

For border towns, the nature of the crossing is described, and any restrictions peculiar to each crossing are noted.

R Air services

Where known, the distance to the airport from the town center is provided, to-

34

HOW TO USE Argentina has an excellent bus service system. Long-distance buses are air-conditioned and have TV. A list of major bus companies and the regions they serve is given on page 26.

gether with bus and taxi services to and from the airport and their approximate fares. Offices and addresses in provincial capitals are given for Argentine airlines only: Aerolineas Argentinas, Austral, L.A.D.E., LAPA, and ALFA. L.A.D.E. is run by the Argentine Air Force, and serves isolated communities in Patagonia. Their aircraft are usually small so that they can land on short airstrips. The shuttle service they provide is generally cheaper than that of Aerolineas Argentinas or Austral, but flights take longer because of stops along the route in remote areas. All remote areas in Patagonia served by L.A.D.E. are indicated in the Travel Companion. The main listing of L.A.D.E. services is under Buenos Aires City on page 66. One drawback for the adventurous traveler is that these flights are usually heavily booked, so you should always confirm your travel arrangements beforehand. Tables of airline destinations indicate the airfare, number of flights per day or week, days on which the services are provided, the duration of the flight, and the servicing airline. Destinations are listed in alphabetical order. You must be aware that timetables are subject to at least two changes per year (summer and winter schedules), so you should always double-check. Night flights on domestic services are substantially cheaper than daylight flights. However, it helps if you arrive as early as possible at your next destination as hotels in some locations may be booked out from late afternoon onwards, especially during the vacation season from December to early March. You can avoid disappointment by making a phone booking before leaving.

U Motoring

The condition of principal roads to the nearest town is given where this is significant. Service stations A service station is given for every town; whenever there was a gas station run by the Automóvil Club Argentino (A.C.A.), I have included them as the preferred station as they may have a good cafeteria or restaurant attached; moreover they sell excellent provincial maps and hojas de ruta (or “road guide sheets”), which have important information required when traveling between two cities, such as from Buenos Aires to Córdoba, or from Tucumán to La Quiaca. The best place to buy any of these is the A.C.A. center at Avenida del Libertador 1850, Buenos Aires, but all provincial towns have a major A.C.A. center. If you are entering Argentina from Bolivia at La Quiaca, there is an A.C.A. service station a few hundred meters from the border with a good supply of most Argentine road maps. Car rental For those who prefer hiring cars, rental firms are indicated. All major car rental firms (Avis, Hertz, Budget) operate throughout Argentina. If you are a card-holder with any of these companies, charges incurred in Argentina can be paid in your home country. Rates are fairly standard throughout Argentina — for a guide to rates see Car rental under Motoring in Buenos Aires on page 73. Automóvil Club Argentina (A.C.A.) Members of foreign automobile clubs get the same service as A.C.A. members on production of their membership card, or you can join up there. The joining fee is very cheap, and A.C.A. hotels and some restaurants offer a 10–15% discount. A.C.A. is a good source for road maps whether you are driving, busing, or hiking. See also e-mail addresses on page 1028.

S Buses

Tables indicate destinations, fares, days on which services are provided, duration of journey, and servicing companies. Destinations are given in the same order as for “Air services” — see above. In cities and towns with numerous bus companies and numerous destinations the names of bus companies have been substituted with a code number on the tables.

35

ARGENTINA T Trains

district of Buenos Aires is full of them, but tanguerías are found all over Argentina.

Train services have been rationalized and many passenger services have been stopped. Some sections still remain and are usually cheaper than bus travel, but will be slower. All railroad lines begin in Buenos Aires. At the moment TUFESA is the only long-distance line still used for passenger services. Buenos Aires Province is also served adequately by passenger trains, as well as a 3-4 weekly service to Santa Rosa in La Pampa Province.

p Sightseeing

Here are listed all museums and art galleries, major churches, convents, monuments, and public buildings of interest. Indicated are opening times, admission charges, and an overview of what is shown.

s Excursions Tour operators Tour operators offering excursions to surrounding districts are listed, together with their telephone and numbers and if available e-mail addresses. Trips are not linked directly to a particular tour operator but only as a guide to what is available; I indicate where possible departure time, duration of the excursion, and fare. If you arrive in Buenos Aires without a firm travel plan, the Casas de Provincias can provide you with information to help you develop one. Buenos Aires city is the point where many tour operators offer interesting day trips in and around Buenos Aires and to destinations in Patagonia, Misiones, and Salta. Most major travel agencies have staff who speak English, German, French, and Italian. Excursions Here are summarized nearby sightseeing opportunities which are readily accessible as day tours from tour operators, or do-it-yourself tours by local bus routes. Cross-references are provided to fuller information found elsewhere in the Travel Companion.

# Water transport

Regular ferry services are supplied and pleasure-craft excursions described.

Y Shopping

Here are listed shops selling specialties of the district. Such special items include date liqueur (only available in La Rioja), gemstones (Misiones), and green onyx (San Luis). In the north-western provinces you can buy alpaca wool clothing.

a Sport

Under this heading, you will find sporting facilities, starting with golf courses, fishing, water-skiing, skin diving, hiking, and so on. Addresses, telephone numbers, and fax numbers or e-mail addresses for mountaineering and ski clubs are given where available.

n Entertainment

Includes lists of discos, night clubs, and casinos. For larger towns discos are grouped by district. A form of entertainment unique to Argentina is the tanguerías, which specialize in tango music and dancing. The Boca

36

BUENOS AIRES CITY

From a very shaky initial foundation in 1536, Buenos Aires has grown into a remarkable cosmopolitan city; not only is it one of the world’s great financial centers, but it is a cultural center not to be missed on any trip to South America. 37

BUENOS AIRES CITY BUENOS C Buenos APITALAires A FIRES EDERAL City CITY

45 40 41 42 43 44 47 49 51 53 55 57 59 61 63 79 79 81 82 83 84 85 85 87 90 92 93 96 98 103

General information BCEnILMNOPSU#Yaps Map of metropolitan Buenos Aires Key to maps Map of Subte Lines Map 1: La Boca Map 2: San Telmo Map 3: San Telmo and Puerto Madero Map 4: Monserrat and Constitución Map 5: San Nicolás and Puerto Madero Map 6: Balvanera, Monserrat, and San Nicolás Map 7: Retiro Map 8: Balvanera and Recoleta Map 9: Recoleta Map 10: Recoleta and Palermo Map 11: Parque Palermo Almagro CEnM Balvanera CEnp Barracas En Belgrano CEnp Caballito CEp Colegiales EnS Constitución CEn La Boca Ep Monserrat CEnp Palermo CEnp Puerto Madero Enp Recoleta CEnp Retiro CEnp San Nicolás CEnp San Telmo CEnpS

38

BUENOS AIRES CITY Population: Capital Federal 3 million; with greater Buenos Aires included the total is 9 million @area code: (011) Altitude: Sea level

he city of Buenos Aires, the eighth largest city in the western world, is located on the Río de la Plata (known in English as the River Plate), east of the Río Paraná and Río Uruguay delta. The city is completely surrounded in the south-east and north by Buenos Aires Province. The southern border is formed by the Río Riachuelo, and the wide Avenida General Paz forms the border from south-east to north-west. It covers an area of approximately 220 square kilometers (85 square miles, and has been virtually rebuilt since the beginning of this century. The city center has retained its original layout with its narrow streets, but few of the original colonial buildings are left. Most of the streets are one-way.

T

With a few interruptions Buenos Aires has been the capital of the Argentine Federation since Independence in 1810. Initially the city served as both the nation’s capital and the capital of Buenos Aires Province, but in 1880 became a separate federal entity and the province of Buenos Aires created its own capital, La Plata. This chapter covers both “Capital Federal” and those parts of greater Buenos Aires now part of Buenos Aires Province. The part known as “Capital Federal”(often written “Cap. Fed.”) consists of forty-six barrios or municipalidades. Each barrio has its own distinctive community life with local bars, cinemas, theaters, and parks where flea-markets and/or concerts are held on weekends. Avenida Rivadavia divides Buenos Aires into east and west: Streets change their names except Avenida 9 de Julio Buenos Aires is a treasure-trove for art and music lovers. It may well be described as the culinary and cultural capital of South America. Buenos Aires has a temperate climate, the warmest months being December to mid March with

temperatures ranging from 18°C (60°F) to 30°C (85°F); the coolest months are June to August with temperatures ranging from +5°C (42°F) to +15°C (56°F). Rain is evenly distributed throughout the year; March and April have the highest rainfall. Because of the sheer volume of the material covered, this chapter is divided into two sections: General information (page 45) and the barrios (beginning on page 78). Tourist information, hospitals, banks and other services, and excursions from the capital are listed in the general section. All accommodation, eating facilities, and sightseeing are listed under each respective barrio.

The tango The name Buenos Aires conjures up visions of the tango. Yes, the birthplace of the tango was here around the 1880. In its early stages the tango was frowned upon by the better class Bonarenses as frivolous. It still is a sensual dance, immortalized by Carlos Gardel. When in Buenos Aires you should not miss attending a tango

39

Buenos Aires City

CAPITAL FEDERAL session. Tours are organized by tour operators to the more touristy places, of course at a price. For those looking for tanguerías off the beaten path I include a list of suggested popular dancing places where the principal music is the tango. As may be expected these venues are in the outer suburbs of Buenos Aires and may take a bit of effort to reach. Look for the word “milonga” which means popular dancing. It can safely be said that each barrio has one or

several “milonga” places. See also Tango clubs on page 56. Most of these establishments provide a “tango class” before the general dancing session starts, where novices are instructed and consequently can practice. Tanguerías • Centro Cultural Torcuato Tasso, Defensa 1575, San Telmo/Barracas @ 43076506. From 20:00 onwards classes for beginners and advanced before the session with live orchestra

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starts. Frequent colectivos from the center Sarajevo, Defensa 827 San Telmo @ 43611160 Popular dancing every Sunday from 18:00 onwards before the start are beginners classes; admission free Milonga en la Plaza, Corrientes 1660, Paseo de la Plaza @ 43705348.

Buenos Aires City

•

44

Organized by the Café Mahler. Sessions every Thursday from 20:00 onwards. Best reached using Línea “B” Callao station La Beba, Alvarez Thomas 1462 Barrio Villa Ortúzar @ 45519276. Every Friday from 20:00 onwards. Far from the normal tourist circuit. Best reached

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•

using Línea “D” Palermo station and from there by taxi Los Andes, Dorrego 582, Barrio Chacarito. Popular dancing Monday and Thursday from 19:00. A bit outside the normal tourist circuit. Best reached using Línea “B” Dorrego station Club Almagro, Medrano 522 Barrio Almagro @ 47747454. Best reached using Línea “B” Medrano station and then a short taxi ride Club Cricel, La Rioja 1180, Barrio Balvanera/Almagro near Once train station @ 49577157. Sessions Fridays from 22:30 till 05:00 Saturdays from 22:30 till 04:00, and Sundays until 02:00. Best reached using Línea “E” Urquiza station and then a short taxi ride Club Fulgor de Villa Crespo, Loyola 828, Barrio Villa Crespo. Popular dancing Sundays from 19:00; Monday, Tuesday and Thursday from 21:00; tango lessons before the dancing sessions. Best reached using Línea “B” Angel Gallardo station then short taxi trip

•

•

•

•

La Tangoteca, Alicia Moreau de Justo 1728, Puerto Madero @ 43111988). Tango lessons every day from 16:00–20:00. Easily reached from the center Fundación La Casa del Tango, Guardia Vieja 4049 Barrio Almagro @ 48630463. Friday from 20:00 onwards popular disco; Saturdays live band with popular music from 21:00. Best reached using Línea “B” Angel Gallardo station Viejo Correo, Diaz Vélez 4820 Barrio Caballito near Parque Centenario @ 49580364. Popular dancing daily from 22:30; tango classes start at 20:00. Best reached using Línea “A” Acoyte station and short taxi ride El Pial, Ramón Falcón 2750 Altura Rivadavia 7000, Barrio Flores @ 46124257. Dancing sessions Thursdays from 21:00 and Sundays from 18:00. This may be a long way out from the downtown area but try it anyway Las Dama de Bollini, Pasaje Bollini, Recoleta @ 48056399. Sessions Mon, Wed, and Sat 21:00–24:00

GENERAL INFORMATION

General Information

B Tourist information

the capital, rather than count on being able to find the information once you are in the provinces. This applies in particular to map purchases. Tourist information kiosks are located at each end of Calle Florida. The staff speak at least German, French, English, and Portuguese.

Buenos Aires is the best place to obtain up-to-date information on all parts of Argentina. All provincial tourist agencies — “Casas”— have offices here, and it is a good idea — and easier — to take advantage of this and obtain information about the places you plan to visit while still in

45

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL •

Casa de Córdoba, Avenida Callao 332, San Nicolás @ 43726566/ 44762725/43734277/1668 • Casa de Corrientes, San Martín 333, 4th floor, San Nicolás @ 43947432/ 43948059 • Casa de Entre Ríos, Suipacha 844, Retiro @ 43289327/43282284. Mon–Fri 09:00–18:00 • Casa de Formosa, H. Yrigoyen 1429, Montserrat @ 43817048/43812037 • Casa Provincia de Jujuy, Avenida Santa Fe 967, Retiro @ 43942295/ 43933174/43936096. Open Mon–Fri. 09:00–20:00 • Casa de La Pampa, Suipacha 346, San Nicolás @ 43261145/43260511 • Casa de La Rioja, Viamonte 749, San Nicolás @ 43261140 • Casa de Mendoza, Avenida Callao 445, Balvanera @ 43717301 • Casa de Misiones, Avenida Santa Fe 989, Retiro @ 43221671/43220677 • Casa del Neuquén, Perón 687, San Nicolás @ 43266812/43261188. Open Mon–Fri 09:30–16:00 • Casa de Río Negro, Tucumán 1916, Balvanera @ 43715599. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 • Casa de Salta, Avenida R.S. Peña 933, San Nicolás @ 43261314/43260321 • Casa de San Juan, Sarmiento 1251, San Nicolás @ 43829241/43825580/ 43825591 • Casa de San Luis, Azcuénaga 1083, Recoleta @ 48239413 • Casa de Santa Cruz, Suipacha 1120, San Nicolás @ 43253098 fax. Open Mon–Fri. 10:00–17:30 • Casa de Santa Fe, Montevideo 373, San Nicolás @ 43711825 • Casa de Santiago del Estero, Florida 274, San Nicolás @ 43221389 • Casa de Tucumán, Suipacha 140, San Nicolás @ 43220564/5 • Casa de Tierra del Fuego, Santa Fe 919, Retiro @ 43253106/43228855 City tourist information • Dirección de Turismo de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires, Sarmiento 1551, 5th floor, San Nicolás @ 43723612. Also has information centers at both ends of Calle Florida, Galerías Pacífico, and Diagonal Norte. Web site: http://www.turismo.gov.ar

Maps and books • Instituto Geográfico Militar (Military Geographic Institute), Avenida Cabildo 301, Palermo @ 47713031; e-mail: [email protected]. Open 08:00–13:00. Take bus 152 from Retiro station & • Guía Peuser is the best street directory and includes a map of “Gran Buenos Aires” as well as colectivo routes • Guía de Turismo y Aventuras de la Argentina Desconocida, Arqueológica y Misteriosa (“Tourism and Adventure Guide to Unknown, Archeological and Mysterious Argentina”) by Federico Kirbus is available from bookshops • Automóvil Club Argentino — A.C.A. The A.C.A. is Argentina’s motorists association. It is shown on map keys as A.C.A. and on the map as gas stations. This organization brings out a range of excellent tourist and motoring maps for each province ($6.60) as well as “Hojas de Ruta” (or route travel guides) for $4.40. For further information on the A.C.A. see page 67 National tourist offices • Dirección Nacional de Turismo, Suipacha 1111 21st floor, Retiro @ 43125611 and 43125621 • Administración de Parques Nacionales (National Parks Administration), Santa Fe 690 near Plaza Libertador San Martín, Retiro @ 43110303 • Fundación Vida Silvestre, Defensa 245, Monserrat @ 43314864, has information and books on Argentine flora and fauna Provincial tourist offices The provincial tourist offices are indicated on the maps by the symbol B. • Casa de Buenos Aires, Avenida Callao 237, Balvanera @ 43717045 and 43716587 • Casa de Catamarca, Avenida Córdoba 2080, Balvanera @ 43746891/5 • Casa del Chaco, Avenida Callao 322, 1st floor, San Nicolás @ 43720961/ 44763045 • Casa del Chubut, Sarmiento 1172, San Nicolás @ 43837458. Open Mon–Fri. 10:30–17:00

General Information

46

BUENOS AIRES CITY Joins map 2 San Telmo and map 4 Monserrat and Constitución

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3 Accommodation 1

Hotel Bolívar

4 Eating out 5

Restaurant Nicole de Marseille

5 Entertainment 2

Restaurant la Convención

3

Restaurant La Casa de Estebán Luca 4 Restaurant Acapulco 6 Restaurant Los Dos Pianitos 7 Restaurant Bar Sur 8 Restaurant Unión Bar 10 Restaurant El Viejo Almacén 11 Restaurant Caminito

47

12 Restaurant Taconeango 13 Restaurant A Media Luz 14 Restaurant Calle de Ángeles 15 Restaurant Molière Café 16 Restaurant Casablanca

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL Stop press: Accommodation for backpackers and budget travelers • • • • • •

Asociación Argentina de Albergues de la Joventud, Brasil 675; see page 103 Che Lagarto Youth Hostel, Combate de los Pozos; see page 80 El Hostal de San Telmo, Carlos Calvo 614 see page 103 V & S Youth Hostel Backpackers, Viamonte 887; see page 101 Metropolitan I, Ave. Corrientes 3973; see page 79 Metropolitan II, Ave. Boedo 449; see page 79

•

Airport information service at Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini is open Mon–Fri 08:30–22:00 • Airport information service at Aeroparque Jorge Newbery is open Mon–Fri 08:30–20:00 and Sat 09:00–19:00 Tourist associations • Asociación Civil GEOS, an organization dedicated to ecotourism and nature preservation. They organize tours • Asociación de Kayakistas para La Aventura (Adventure Kayak Sport Association) @ 47979421/42141995; email: [email protected]. com.ar. Contact Adrian Rossi and Martin Grodna • Asociación Ornitológica del Plata (Del Plata Ornitological Association) @ 43121015 e-mail: safaris@arnet. com.ar. Organizes birdwatching

Key to Map 4

3 Accommodation 1 2 4 7 8 25 28 29 30 31 32 33 36 37 39 40 41 42

Residencial Cyrus Residencial Gran Prince Residencial Carlos I Hospedaje Victoria Hotel Oxford Hotel Intercontinental Buenos Aires Hospedaje La Argentina Hospedaje Uruguay Hospedaje Gran España Hotel Astoria Hospedaje Reina Hotel Castelar Hotel Hispano Hotel Novel Hotel Marbella Hotel Chile Hotel Gran Argentino Hotel Gran Hotel de la Paix

4 Eating out 5

Restaurant Hostal del Canigo

General Information

10 11 12 17 18 23 26 27 34 38

•

•

tours around Buenos Aires and in the Río de la Plata and Río Uruguay estuary. This is a group which caters for tourists interested in birdlife Instituto Argentino de Montañismo (Argentine mountain climbing Association) @ 47428810; e-mail: iam @datamarkets.com.ar Red Argentina de Alojamiento Para Jovenes (Argentine Youth Hostel Association), Florida 835 @ 45118712/23 fax 43120089; e-mail: [email protected]

C Accommodation

Buenos Aires is a huge city and hotels are scattered over a wide area. The biggest concentration is in the “tourist belt” around Calle Florida and Avenida Corrientes, and also near Constitucion and Once stations. To make selecting a hotel easier, hotel listings are shown under the listing for each barrio. Most of the

Restaurant Taberna Baska Restaurant Lo Prete Restaurant Maraxe Restaurant El Jabalí Restaurant Laurak-Bat Restaurant Basque Francais Restaurant Swedish Club Restaurant Club Español Restaurant El Imparcial Restaurant Hispano

5 Entertainment 3 13 14 15 21 22

Restaurant Cemento Restaurant La Trastienda Restaurant Michelangelo Restaurant La Ventana Restaurant El Querandí Restaurant El Goce Pagano 35 Café Tortoni

6 Airline offices 6

Líneas Aéreas del Estado (L.A.D.E.)

48

9 Sights

9 Museo Histórico del Traje 16 Basílica Menor de Nuestra Sra. del Rosario and Convento Sto Domingo 19 Museo Nacional del Grabado 24 Iglesia San Ignacio de Loyola

0 Services

20 St. Andrew’s Presbyterian church

- Subte stations A3 A4 C5 C6 C7 C8 E2 E3 E4

Piedras station Lima station Ave. de Mayo station Moreno station Independencia station San Juan station Belgrano station Independencia station San José station

BUENOS AIRES CITY MAP 4 MONSERRAT AND CONSTITUCIÓN

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when booking in. Tipping is expected in the larger hotels; 8–10% of the bill is about right. Avoid hotels which have a red or green light displayed outside; they are “Albergues Transitorios”, a euphemism for “brothels”.

up-market hotels are in the downtown barrios of Recoleta, Monserrat, and San Nicolás. Moderately priced accommodation can be found in the barrios of Constitución and San Telmo. When breakfast is included, it is indicated under services, but always inquire

49

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL Key to Map 5 A B C D E

Catedral Metropolitana Casa de Gobierno Palacio Municipal Correo Central Telecom Argentina and Telefónica de Argentina

3 Accommodation 7 8 11 13 22 23 24 28 55 57 66 72 74 76 83 85 91 94 95 100 102 103 105 111 114 115 116

Hotel City Hotel Nogaró Hospedaje Avenida Hotel Turista Hotel Du Helder Hotel Gran Hotel San Carlos Hospedaje Suipacha Palace Hotel Continental Hotel Gran Eibar Hotel Liberty Hotel Plaza Roma Hotel Gran King Hotel King’s Hotel El Cabildo Hotel Tucumán Palace Hotel Lafayette Hotel Grand Hotel Hotel Camino Real Hospedaje O’Rei Hotel Concorde Hotel Italia Romanelli Hotel Regidor Hotel Claridge Hotel Phoenix Hotel Lancaster Hotel Tres Sargentos Hotel San Antonio

4 Eating out

12 Restaurant Pedemonte 18 Restaurant La Lechería 19 Restaurant La Veda and Restaurant Cámara de las Sociedades Anónimas 27 Restaurant Grannix 54 Restaurant Blab 58 Restaurant Clark’s II 59 Restaurant Yapeyú 60 Fast food Pumpernic 67 Restaurant El Recodo 69 Restaurant London Grill 73 Cafetería Richmond 75 Restaurant Los Inmortales 79 Fast food Lecherísima 84 Restaurant Brizzi 89 Restaurant Vía Verde 90 Restaurant ABC 93 Restaurant Oriente and Restaurant El Mundo 96 Restaurant El Palacio de la Papa Frita

General Information

99 Restaurant El Figón de la Bonilla 110 Cafetería La Barra 113 Restaurant Catalinas

5 Entertainment

25 Restaurant Columbus 31 Restaurant Chiquín 32 Restaurant Atenas en Oniro 65 Luna Park Stadium 77 Restaurant Corrientes Angosta 104 Restaurant Maison Dorée 117 Restaurant Bárbaro

6 Airline offices

51 DINAR Líneas Aéreas 81 Aerolineas Argentinas 82 Helicopter Corporation S.A. 86 LAER Líneas Aéreas de Entre Ríos

2 3 4 6 10 34 35 38 45 52 97 98

Museo Etnográfico Juan B. Ambrosetti Basilica and Convento de San Francisco Museo de la Ciudad Iglesia San Ignacio and Manzana de las Luces Museo Histórico del Cabildo Museo Numismatico “Arturo Jauretche” Basilica de La Merced Museo Histórico y Numismatico del Banco de la Nación Argentina Bolsa de Comercio Museo Nacional Mitre Buque Museo Fragata Presidente Sarmiento Buque Museo Corbeta A.R.A. Uruguay

0 Services

Vida Silvestre 7 Tour operators and car 514 Fundación Consulate of Israel and rentals Consulate of Netherlands 20 61 63 92 101 109

Turar Buenos Aires Vision Nova Terra S.A. Cacciola Viajes y Turismo Flyer Viajes Feeling Turismo

$

Money exchange

15 16 17 21 26 36 39 40 43 44 48 49 50 70 87 88

Banco de la Nación Deutsche Bank Citibank First National Bank of Boston Exprinter Cambio Baires and Cambio Mercurio Cambio Velox Royal Bank of Canada Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires Bank of America Cambio Casa Piano and Cambio Baupesa Cambios Norte Cambio America and Cambio Intercam SA Cambio Vaccaro Cambio Puente Hnos Cambio Columbus

9 Sights 1

Convento de Santo Domingo and Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Rosario

50

29 Iglesia Evangélica Alemana 33 St. John’s Anglican Cathedral 46 Librería Goethe 53 Argentine Golf Association 56 Librería El Ateneo 68 Goethe Institut 71 Consulate of Bolivia 78 Laboclick 80 Consulate of Japan 106 Le Lab 107 Yacht Club Argentino 108 Seacat terminal 112 Librería Leonardo

B Tourist information 30 Casa de Tucumán 41 Casa de Santiago del Estero 42 Casa de Neuquén 47 Casa de Corrientes 62 Casa de La Pampa 64 Casa de Salta

- Subte stations B1 B2 C4 A1 A2 A3 E1 D1

L.N. Alem station Florida station Diagonal Norte station Plaza de Mayo station Perú station Piedras station Bolívar station Catedral station

BUENOS AIRES CITY Joins map 4 Monserrat and Constitución

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CAPITAL 5 SAN NICOLÁS AND PUERTO MADERO

51

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL Key to Map 6 G

Mercado del Congreso

3 Accommodation 5 6 8 9 13 14 15 16 17 21 22 23 24 26 27 28 29 30 32 34 35 36 37 39 40 41 43 45 46 47 52 62 65 68 71 75 88

Hotel Solís Palace Hotel Cevallos Palace Hotel Chile Hotel Avenida Petit Hotel Marbella Hotel Nuevo Hotel Mundial Hotel Gran Vedra Hotel Napoleon Hospedaje Roma Hotel Gran Hotel de la Paix Hospedaje Europa Hospedaje Sportman Hotel Mar del Plata Hospedaje Lourdes Hospedaje Oriental Hotel Majestic Hospedaje Orense Hospedaje Mediterráneo Hotel Savoy Hotel El Molino Hotel Ayamitre Hotel Salles Hotel Bristol Hospedaje Pirámides Hotel Cardton Hotel Americano Hotel Callao Hospedaje Gran Sarmiento Hospedaje Gran Real Hotel Lyon Hotel República Hotel Milán Hotel Normandie Hotel Bauen Hotel Sarmiento Palace Hotel Columbia Palace Hospedaje Orleans

4 Eating out 1 2 3 7

Restaurant Centro Asturiano Restaurant La Cabaña Restaurant Yuki Restaurant Nihonbashi

11 20 25 31 44 48 53 56 57 59 70 73 77 83 87 89 91 92 94

Restaurant Villa Rosa Restaurant Quorum Confitería El Molino Restaurant Prosciutto Restaurant Vegetariano Restaurant Casa de Corea Restaurant Arturito Restaurant La Churrasquita Restaurant Guerrín Restaurant Pippo’s Restaurant El Toboso Restaurant Edelweiss Restaurant Liberarte and Restaurant La Paz Restaurant Manantial Restaurant Casa China Restaurant La Robla Restaurant Lotos Restaurant La Esquina de las Flores Restaurant La Porcherie

5 Entertainment

10 Restaurant Ávila Bar 33 Restaurant Nuevo Salón La Argentina 55 Restaurant Los Teatros de Buenos Aires 60 Centro Cultural General San Martín 64 Restaurant La Casa de Luis Gardel 69 Restaurant Boulevard 72 Centro Cultural Ricardo Rojas 76 Restaurant Foro Ghandi 78 Teatro Presidente Alvear 93 Restaurant Clásica y Moderna

6 Airline offices

85 S.A.P.S.E. Líneas Aéreas

7 Tour operators and car rental 50 Nova Terra 74 Buenos Aires Tur

18 19 58 66 80 81 82 86

Kilometre Zero Palacio del Congreso Museo de Arte Moderno Fundación Banco Patricios Obelisco Book stalls Palacio de la Justicia Museo de Arte Lirico e Instrumentos Musicales del Teatro Colón 90 Museo de Patrimonio Histórico de Aguas Argentinas 95 Palacio Pizzurno

0 Services 4

Policia Federal

B Tourist information 12 38 42 49 51 54 61 63 67 79 84

Casa de Formosa Casa del Chubut Casa de Buenos Aires Casa de La Pampa Casa de Salta Casa de San Juan Dirección de Turismo de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires Casa de Santa Fe Casa del Chaco and Casa de Córdoba Casa de Mendoza Casa de Río Negro

- Subte stations A4 A5 A6 A7 A8 A9 B3 B4 B5 B6 C4 D2 D3 D4

Lima station Sáenz Peña station Congreso station Pasco station Alberti station Plaza Miserere station Carlos Pellegrini station Uruguay station Callao station Pasteur station Diagonal Norte station 9 de Julio station Tribunales station Callao station

E Eating out

In the higher bracket hotels tax is added to the charges; at cheaper hotels and residenciales usually no tax is added. If you intend to stay longer than a week or two, renting an apartment may be a better choice. Check the tourist office for details.

General Information

9 Sights

Cafeterías, bars, and choperías are good for quick, inexpensive meals, but gourmets are also well catered for in Buenos Aires. One speciality worth trying is a meat dish called a parrilla. Check the Buenos Aires Herald for information about places that are currently in favor. The Herald, an English-language newspaper, is available at major hotels and airports, and

52

BUENOS AIRES CITY M IS

MAP 6 BALVANERA , MONSERRAT AND SAN NICOLAS

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53

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL Key to Map 7 T

Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 5 6 7 12 13 15 21 23 27 30 31 46 50 51 58 62 64 65 66 67 68 78 80 82 86 90 92 99 101 103 105 114 115 116

Hotel Esmeralda Palace Hotel Rochester Hotel Regis Hotel Gran Colón Hotel Crowne Plaza Panamericano Hotel Carsson Hotel Libertador Kempinski Hotel Maipú Hotel Petit Goya Hotel Waldorf Hotel Gran Orly Hotel Presidente Hotel Principado Hotel Promenade Hotel Gran Dorá Apart Hotel Aspen Suites Hotel Gran Buenos Aires Hotel Aspen Towers Hotel El Conquistador Hotel Regente Palace Hotel Bisonte Hotel Central Córdoba Hotel Marriott Plaza Hotel Sheltown Hotel Crillon Hotel de las Américas Hotel Sheraton Buenos Aires Hotel Embajador Hotel Carlton Hospedaje Versalles Hospedaje Central Argentina Hotel Park Hyatt Buenos Aires Park Plaza Hotel Hotel Caesar Park Buenos Aires

4 Eating out 1

Restaurant El Jardín, Suipacha 429 near Corrientes and Restaurant La Rural and Restaurant Chino 2 Pizza Hut 4 Restaurant El Palacio de la Papa Frita and McDonalds 8 Restaurant La Casona del Nonno 9 Restaurant La Huerta II 10 Fast food Pumpernic

General Information

16 26 29 33 35 40 42 45 52 54 57 59 61 63 70 72 73 76 87 91 93 100 106 113

Restaurant Nueva Era Restaurant Cantina Asia Restaurant Rocinante Cafetería Florida Garden Restaurant ABC Restaurant El Quebracho Restaurant Yin Yang Restaurant La Chacra Restaurant Friday’s Restaurant Downtown Matías Restaurant Tasca Tancat Restaurant Esqueles Restaurant Chung King Restaurant Frontera 34 Restaurant Los Inmortales Restaurant Dora Restaurant Blue Oyster Restaurant El Salmón II Restaurant Los Chilenos Restaurant Piola Restaurant Las Nazarenas Restaurant Bengal Restaurant Dolli Restaurant Jan Toki

5 Entertainment 11 18 22 44 48 49 53 69 75 77

Restaurant La Estancia Teatro Colón Restaurant Memorabilia Restaurant King’s Club Teatro Nacional Cervantes Restaurant D. Gala Restaurant Fillo Restaurant Caño 14 Restaurant Druid Inn Restaurant Hostería del Caballito Blanco 98 Restaurant Karim Club 104 Restaurant Fellini

6 Airline offices

71 Austral Líneas Aéreas 111 CATA Línea Aérea

7 Tour operators and car rental 3 17 19 20 25 34

Interlagos Gador Viajes Aristarain Viajes Turismo Tastil Interplanet City Service Travel Agency 39 Saltur 41 Turismo Estrella Cóndor and Aliscafos Buquebus

54

47 Localiza Rent a Car 60 Lihué Expeditions 74 Autorentas del Atlántico Hertz 79 Dollar Rent A Car 83 Infuetur 94 Budget Rent-a-Car 107 Historical Tours 112 Avis Rent-a-Car

9 Sights

84 Museo de Armas 108 Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano “Isaac Fernández Blanco” 118 Torre de los Ingleses

0 Services

14 Le Lab Fotos 28 Librería Hachette 32 Red Argentina de Alojamiento Para Jovenes (Argentine Youth Hostel Association) 36 Ferrytur 37 Santa Marguerita Golf Club 38 Aliscafos Puente Fluvial 56 Consulate of South Africa 85 Empresa Manuel Tienda León 88 Consulate of Italy 89 Empresa San Martín 102 Consulate of Austria 109 Consulate of Brazil 110 Consulate of France 117 Patio Bullrich 119 Estación Retiro

B Tourist information

24 Casa de La Rioja 43 Casa de Entre Ríos 81 Administración de Parques Nacionales 95 Dirección Nacional de Turismo 96 Casa de Santa Cruz 97 Casa de Tierra del Fuego, Casa de Jujuy and Casa de Misiones

- Subte stations

C1 Retiro station C2 San Martín station C3 Lavalle station

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MAP 7 RETIRO

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL from the tourist kiosks on Calle Florida. Away from the city center, good restaurants can be found on the Costanera Norte (which specializes in parrillas) and in the La Boca district (which specializes in Italian cuisine). In the better restaurants dinner is served from 21:00 until the early hours of the morning. The restaurants at Retiro and Constitución railroad stations are open 24 hours. Most Subte stations also have cafeterias. Breakfast in a confitería costs $5.00, lunch $10.00. Eating places are listed under individual barrios.

music is easy to listen to: noise- producing instruments like drums are kept to a minimum if not completely avoided. Buenos Aires has tango venues in all barrios, most of them in the inner suburbs of Recoleta, Monserrat, San Nicolás, and San Telmo. Attendance charges vary from $7.50 to $55.00. For those intent on mastering the art of the tango there are several venues: Academia de Tango next to Tortoni’s in Avenida de Mayo and the Universidad de Buenos Aires has beginners classes — inquire at the tourist information where venues are held, as the list changes. See also page 40.

n Entertainment

Performing arts Theater is very popular in Buenos Aires, and about 20 commercial theaters put on productions all year round. There are also many amateur theater companies. Book early for concerts, ballet, and opera. • Luna Park Stadium: Bouchard 465, San Nicolás. Pop and jazz concerts are held here • Teatro Colón, Libertad 621, San Nicolás. The opera season at the Teatro Colón (April to early December) is without doubt the finest in Latin America • Teatro Nacional Cervantes, Libertad 815, Retiro. As the name implies, it features many perfomances of classical Spanish works • Teatro Presidente Alvear, Avenida Corrientes 1659, S an Nicolás; has free concerts Tuesday afternoons, usually the Orchestra de Tango de Buenos Aires

Avenida Corrientes is the place to go for a night out; it is lined with dozens of restaurants, cafés, nightclubs, and theaters. Close by is Calle Lavalle; here, and in streets nearby, are numerous cinemas and good restaurants. Calle Lavalle is a pedestrian mall. Entertainment is listed under individual barrios. Cinemas Movie tickets are usually bought at ticket offices — so-called carteleras — most of them located in or around Avenida Corrientes. The choice of films is world-class. Films are shown with Spanish subtitles, but dubbing is being used with increasing frequency. Tango clubs Buenos Aires is the home of the tango. It was Carlos Gardel who made the tango famous in the early part of the twentieth century — and the tango made Carlos Gardel famous, even immortal. Tango

Key to Map 8

3 Accommodation 1 2 3 8

Hotel Hispano Argentino Hospedaje Bahía Hospedaje San Agustín Hotel N’Ontué

4 Eating out 6

Restaurant Cantina Don Carlos 13 Restaurant Cantina Il Formaggio

5 Entertainment 9

Restaurant Al Galope

General Information

10 Restaurant La Casa de Carlos Gardel

7 Tour operators

16 Comarcas Viajes y Turismo, Laprida 1380 Barrio Recoleta

9 Sights 5 7

Museo Municipal del Cine Pablo C. Ducros Hicken Mercado de Abasto

0 Services

4 Estación Once 12 Facultad de Economia

56

14 Facultad de Medicina

B Tourist information 11 Casa de Catamarca 15 Casa de San Luis

- Subte stations A9 B6 B7 B8 D5

Estación Plaza Miserere Estación Pasteur Estación Pueyrredón Estación Carlos Gardel Estación Facultad de Medicina D6 Estación Pueyrredón

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57

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL •

I Post and telegraph Post The Central Post Office, “Correo Argentino”, is at Sarmiento 151, San Nicolás. Open Mon–Sat 08:00–22:00. International telegrams have a 24-hour service. There is a small charge for poste restante letters. Parcels over 1 kg must be sent from the international parcels post office, Correo Postal Internacional in Antártida Argentina, near Retiro station, which is open Mon–Fri 12:30–17:00. Each post office provides a fax service. Telephones Argentina has two telephone companies: Telecom Argentina and Telefónica de Argentina. The country (and the city of Buenos Aires) is divided between them. Public telephones are usually in good working order; instead of coins, tokens (cospeles) are used; there are different tokens for local calls and long-distance calls. For overseas calls dial 00 and then the country code. Overseas calls are a lot cheaper from telephone offices — locutorios — than from hotels, although they do take longer.

Key to Map 9 A H

Iglesia Nuestra Señora del Pilar Hospital Rivadavia

3 Accommodation 6 9 11 15 16 24 33 40 42 46

Hotel Alfa Hotel Wilton Palace Hotel Prince Hotel Ayacucho Palace Hospedaje Lion D’Or Hotel Guido Palace Apart Hotel Etoile Hotel Caesar Park Hotel Hotel Alvear Palace Hotel Plaza Francia

4 Eating out 5 8 10 12 13 14 18 19 20

Restaurant Romanaccio Restaurant Los Inmortales Restaurant Cereus Restaurant Teatriz Restaurant French Bistro Restaurant Pizza Banana Restaurant Rodi Restaurant La Gomería Restaurant Mora X

General Information

•

Telefónica de Argentina, Corrientes 707 corner of Maipú, San Nicolás. Open 24 hours every day Telecom Argentina, Palacio de Correos, Sarmiento 189 and also at Florida 1, both in San Nicolás

L Financial

Banks charge about 5% commission on travelers’ checks. Exchange houses (“Casas de Cambio”) are open daily 08:30–16:30, and some also open on Saturdays 09:00–12:00. Most of the exchange houses are on Corrientes and San Martín. The major banks have ATMs in their city branches. I recommend that you change money at the Banco Provincia de Buenos Aires and Banco Ciudad de Buenos Aires; they are required by law to exchange US$1 for 1 peso and charge only a minimal fee. Banco Ciudad de Buenos Aires is open Mon–Fri 10:00–17:00. Other banks are open weekdays 10:00–15:00. Note: Do not change money with street vendors. Banks in San Nicolás • Banco de la Nación, Plaza de Mayo. Good rates, but only for Citicorp checks

25 Restaurant Au Bec Fin 27 Restaurant Harper’s and Restaurant Clark’s 31 Restaurant José Luis and Restaurant La Rueda 32 Restaurant Lola 34 Restaurant La Tasca de Germán 39 Cafetería Café de la Paz 43 Restaurant Pizza Cero 45 Restaurant El Sanjuanino

5 Entertainment

4 Restaurant Contramano 26 Restaurant Sahara Continent and Restaurant Henry J. Bean’s 28 Restaurant Hippopotamus 30 Restaurant Shampoo 35 Restaurant Café Victoria 36 Centro Cultural Recoleta 41 Restaurant Africa

9 Sights

21 Museo Roca de Investigaciones Históricas

58

29 Cementerio de la Recoleta 38 Biblioteca Nacional 47 Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

0 Services 2 3 17 22 23 37 44 48

Facultad de Economía Facultad de Medicina Consulate of Uruguay Consulate of Paraguay Consulate of Spain Consulate of Great Britain Patio Bullrich Facultad de Derecho

B Tourist information 1 7

Casa de Catamarca Casa de San Luis

- Subte stations

D4 Callao station D5 Facultad de Medicina station D6 Pueyrredón station D7 Agüero station

BUENOS AIRES CITY Joins map 8 Balvanera and Recoleta

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MAP 9 RECOLETA

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL Key to Map 10 4 Eating out 2 3

Restaurant Río Rhin Norte Restaurant La Casona de Tía Teresa 4 Restaurant La Zi Teresa di Napoli 5 Restaurant Cero Pizza 8 Restaurant Le Trianon 11 Cafetería Round Point

9 Sights 9

Museo Nacional de Arte Decoration and Museo de Arte Oriental 11 Museo de Motives Populares Argentinos José Hernández 12 Museo del Instituto Sanmartiniano

•

1 6 7

Alto Palermo Shopping Consulate of Peru Automovil Club Argentino (A.C.A.) 10 Paseo Alcorta Shopping

- Subte stations

D8 Agüero station D9 Bulnes station D10 Scalabrini Ortiz station

M Services and facilities

Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires, Sarmiento 630, San Nicolás. Agent for Visa card. You can get a cash advance at any branch of this bank upon presentation of your Visa card • Bank of America, Maipú 267. Exchanges only Bank of America travelers’ checks • Citibank, Mitre 502 @ 43314031 • Deutsche Bank, Mitre 402. @ 43432541 Exchange open 10:00–13:00 & • First National Bank of Boston, Florida 99. Will exchange travelers’ checks for dollars for a small commission • Royal Bank of Canada, Florida 202 @ 43714583 Exchange houses in San Nicolás • Cambio America, San Martín 312 @ 43944838 • Cambio Baires, San Martín 215 @ 43945851 • Cambio Baupesa, San Martín 363 @ 43255833 • Cambio Calcos, Tucumán 1000 @ 43824442/43943040 • Cambio Intercam SA, San Martín 318 @ 43257173 • Cambio Mercurio, San Martín 233 @ 43944854 • Cambio Casa Piano, San Martín 347 @ 43942550. Travelers’ checks & • Cambio Puente Hnos, Lavalle 445 @ 4320409 • Cambio Velox, San Martín 298 @ 43940115 • Cambios Norte, Sarmiento 525 @ 43942628. Also travelers’ checks • Cambio Columbus, San Martín 529 @ 43935523 • Exprinter, Suipacha 1107 @ 43313050

General Information

0 Services

Medical services • British hospital, Perdriel 74, Barracas @ 43041081 • French hospital, Rioja 951, Balvanera @ 48662546 • German hospital, Pueyrredón 1650, Palermo @ 48211700 • Italian hospital, Gascón 450, Almagro @ 49590200

N Clubs

• •

Centro Cultural General San Martín, Sarmiento 1551, San Nicolás. Free concerts and plays German: Goethe Institut, Corrientes 327, San Nicolás @ 43135930. Movies, library, and reading room (with the latest German newspapers), concerts, theater, exhibitions, and restaurant

O Churches

•

•

• • •

60

Anglican: St. John’s Cathedral, 25 de Mayo 282, San Nicolás. Half of the cost of building this church was met by the British government. It was consecrated in 1831. There is a Sunday service at 10:00 Armenian: Iglesia Apostólica Armenia Basílica San Gregorio El Iluminador, Acevedo 1352, Villa Crespo German Evangelical Church: Iglesia Evangélica Alemana, Esmeralda 162, San Nicolás @ 4454326 Presbyterian: St. Andrew’s, Belgrano 579, Monserrat Russian Orthodox: Iglesia Ortodoxa Rusa, Brasil 315, San Telmo

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MAP 10 RECOLETA AND PALERMO

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL Key to Map 11

3 Accommodation 4 5 6

Hotel Palermo Hotel Panamé Apart Hotel Torre Cristóforo Colombo

4 Eating out 8 9

Restaurant La Catedra Restaurant Angelo

9 Sights 1

Museo Nacional del Jardín Botánico 2 The Jardín Zoológico 3 Sociedad Rural Argentina (Show grounds) 10 Rosedal 11 Jardín Japonés 12 Planetario

•

P Visas, passports Authorities • Migraciones, Antártida Argentina 1365, Retiro • Policia Federal, Central police station, Moreno 1550, Monserrat @ 43818041 Consulates and embassies Gauging by the number of foreign diplomatic missions, Palermo is the preferred location for them. • Australia: Villanueva 1400, Palermo @ 47776580 fax 48054016. Open Mon–Thurs 08:30–12:30 • Austria: Cerrito 1290, piso 5, Retiro @ 48143669/48161546. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–12:00 • Bolivia: Corrientes 545, San Nicolás @ 43946042. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–14:00 • Brazil: Pellegrini 1363, 5th floor, Retiro @ 43945260/64/70. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–18:00 • Canada: Tagle 2828, Palermo @ 48053032, fax 48061209. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–12:00 • Chile: Tagle 2762, Palermo @ 48027020, fax 48045927. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–14:00 • France: Cerrito 1399, Retiro @ 48192930 fax 43931235. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–12:00 • Germany: Villanueva 1055, Palermo @ 47713514 fax 47782550. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–12:00 • Great Britain: Dr. L. Agote 2412, Palermo @ 48037070 • Israel: Avenida de Mayo 701, Monserrat @ 43421433. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–11:00 • Italy: M.T. de Alvear 1149, Retiro @ 48166136. Open Mon–Fri 08:30–11:30. Closed Thurs

General Information

• • • • • • •

0 Services 7

U.S.A. Consulate

- Subte stations

D10 Canning station D11 Plaza Italia station D12 Palermo station

Japan: Bouchard 547, San Nicolás @ 43188200. Mon–Fri 10:00–12:00 and 15:00–17:00 Netherlands: Avenida de Mayo 701, Monserrat @ 43344000. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–12:30 Paraguay: Las Heras 2545, Palermo @ 48023826. Open Mon–Fri 09:30–13:00 Peru: Avenida del Libertador 1720, Barrio Palermo @ 48022000. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–14:00 South Africa: M.T. de Alvear 590, 7th floor, Retiro @ 43119672. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–11:00 Spain: Guido 1760, Recoleta @ 4811070. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–14:00 Uruguay: Las Heras 1907, Palermo @ 48073031. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–18:00 U.S.A.: Colombia 4300, Palermo @ 47774533. Open Mon–Fri 08:15–11:00

S Transport The Subte The best and fastest way to travel in the city is on Subte (for Subterraneo), the underground rail system. It is well sign-posted and connects with all the main intercity stations. Routes and connections are displayed inside the carriages. Tokens ($0.50) are used instead of tickets, and a single token entitles you to use any route or combination of routes. Línea “C” (from Retiro station to Constitución station) crosses the city center and connects with all other branch lines (at Calle Pellegrini station with Línea “B” and “D”, at Avenida de Mayo with Línea “A”) and at Independencia with Línea “E”. Five lines link outer parts of the city to the center. Stations are closed between 01:30 and 05:00. Backpacks and luggage are al-

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General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL R Air services from Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires has two airports: Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini and Aeroparque Jorge Newbery. The international airport is in Ezeiza some 50 km east of the city; best reached via Autopista Dellepiane which starts on the corner of Avenida Ingeniero Hugo near Avenida San Juan as Autopista 25 de Mayo. Aeroparque Jorge Newbery is located on Avenida Rafael Obligado about 20 minutes from the city center. It services domestic flights as well as flights to bordering nations — “paises limítrofes” such as Montevideo and some flights to Asunción There is a departure tax of $15.00 for international flights. On departure abroad you can claim a refund of tax paid on purchases over $200.00. Bus services to airports Services to Aeroparque Jorge Newbery and Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini • Empresa Manuel Tienda León, Santa Fe 790, Retiro @ 43150489 • Empresa San Martín, Avenida Santa Fe 1158, Recoleta @ 43144747. Fares: $15.00; bus services run from 04:00–21:00 every half hour. From the downtown district to Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini is a one-hour trip Services to Aeroparque Jorge Newbery • Municipal bus 45 goes to the Aeroparque; fare $1.50 • Taxi to Aeroparque: $8.00 Services to Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini • Municipal buses 51 and 86 run the 11 2-hour trip to Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini from Plaza de Mayo (marked “Aeropuerto”) via Avenida Rivadavia; fare $5.00 • Taxi to Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini airport costs $45.00–$55.00. All international flights land and depart here except for a few flights to Montevideo International carriers • Aerolineas Argentinas (AA), Bouchard 547, San Nicolás @ 43173000. This is the national carrier • Air France, Paraguay 610, 4th floor @ 43174700 • Alitalia Líneas Aéreas Italianas, Suipacha 1111 @ 43109999 • American Airlines, Suipacha 1111, 28th floor @ 43181100 and Ave. Santa Fe 881 @ 43181111 • Avianca, C. Pellegrini 1163, 4th floor @ 43945990 • Canadian Airline, Ave. Córdoba 656 @ 43273640 • Cathay Pacific Airways, Maipú 726 @ 43223179 • Iberia Líneas Aéreas de España SA, Pellegrini 1163 @ 43272739 • Japan Airlines, Ave. Córdoba 836 @ 43931896 • LAN Chile Sa, Florida 954 @ 43162222 (Reservations) • Lloyd Aéreo Boliviano, C. Pellegrini 137/141 @ 42371961 • Lufthansa Líneas Aéreas Alemanas, M.T. De Alvear 590, 6th floor @ 43190600 • Mexicana de Aviación, H. Yrigoyen 636 @ 43456683 • Qantas Airways Limited, Ave. Córdoba 673 @ 43128593 • Sabena Belgian Airlines, Maipú 726 @ 43223179 • SAS Líneas Aéreas Escandinavas, Tacuarí 147 @ 43342423/43275008 • Singapore Airlines, Ave. Corrientes 676 @ 43252237 • South African Airways, Ave. Santa Fe 794 3rd floor @ 43115825 • Transbrasil Líneas Aéreas, Florida 782 @ 43945431 • United Airlines, Ave. Madero 900 @ 43160777 • Varig SA, Pasaje Carabelas 344 @ 43299200

General Information

64

BUENOS AIRES CITY Air services from Buenos Aires — continued Domestic carriers • Austral Líneas Aéreas (AU), Avenida L.N. Alem 1134, Retiro @ 43407800 • CATA Línea Aérea, Cerrito 1320, 3rd floor, Retiro @ 48123390 • DINAR Líneas Aéreas S.A., San Martín 320 8th floor, San Nicolás @ 43253576 fax 43253899 • Kaikén, Ave. Maipú 580 @ 43349510. Flights to Patagonian destinations • LAER Líneas Aéreas de Entre Ríos, Lavalle 437, 2nd floor, San Nicolás @ 43945624 • Líneas Aéreas del Estado (L.A.D.E.) — see separate listing on page 66 • Líneas Aéreas Privadas Argentinas (LAPA), Avenida Santa Fe 1970, Retiro @ 48110041/6 • S.A.P.S.E. Líneas Aéreas, Tucumán 1920, Balvanera @ 43717066 • Southern Wings Líneas Aéreas, Florida 868 @ 43122811; e-mail: [email protected] Taxis aéreos, charter planes, and helicopters • Aeromaster, Aeroparque Jorge Newbery @ 47771233 • American Jet @ 43152349 • Helicopter Corporation S.A. Avenida L.N. Alem 592, 13th floor, San Nicolás @ 43120042 fax 43126430 • Rent a Plane S.A., Aeroparque Jorge Newbery (1425) @ 47726573 Internal air services In the following list AR stands for Aerolineas Argenias and AU for Austral Líneas Aéreas. • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fares Bahía Blanca Bariloche $100–220 Catamarca Comodoro Rivadavia $90–180 Córdoba $60–140 Corrientes $70–150 Esquel Formosa $70–150 Iguazú $90–220 Jujuy $100–230 La Rioja Mar del Plata $42–80 Mendoza $65–180 Neuquén $60–205 Paso de los Libres $90.00 Posadas $70–170 Resistencia $70–150 Río Cuarto Río Gallegos $110–225 Río Grande Rosario $70–80 Salta $110–220 San Juan San Luis San Martín de los Andes San Rafael Santa Fe $80–130

Frequency 4 daily 4 daily 1 daily

Duration Airline 11 4 hrs AU and L.A.D.E. 21 4 hrs AR and L.A.D.E. 3 hrs AU

3 daily 13 daily 1–2 daily 4 weekly 1 daily 4 daily 1–2 daily 1 daily 6 daily 12 daily 4 daily

3 hrs 11 2 hrs 11 4 hrs 31 4 hrs 11 2 hrs 2 hrs 23 4 hrs 2 hrs 1 hour 2 hrs 2 hrs

AU and L.A.D.E. AU AU AU AU AR AU AR AU, AR AU, AR AU

2 daily 2 daily 1 daily 5 daily 3 daily 6 daily 2 daily 3 daily 1 daily 7 weekly 5 weekly 1–4 daily

11 2 hrs 11 4 hrs 13 4 hrs 5 hrs 31 4 hrs 1 hour 2 hrs 3 hrs 21 2 hrs 2 hrs 11 2 hrs 1 hour

LAER AU, LAPA AU AU AU AR AU AU AR AU AR AU AU AU AR

65

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL Air services from Buenos Aires — continued • • • • • •

Santa Rosa Santiago del Estero Trelew $80–180 Tucumán $80–240 Ushuaia $160–260 Viedma

1–2 daily 1 daily 2–3 daily 5 daily 4 daily 1 daily

2 hrs 11 2 hrs 2 hrs 2 hrs 31 2 hrs 21 4 hrs

AU AU AR AR AR AU

R L.A.D.E. air services

L.A.D.E., Perú 714, Monserrat @ 43617071 fax 43007373; Web site: www.lade.com.ar; e-mail: [email protected]. L.A.D.E. specializes in flights to Patagonia. They use small airplanes which can land on short airstrips in the Patagonian wilderness. Their fares are cheaper than Aerolineas Argentinas or Austral, but flights take longer. They are usually heavily booked, especially for flights in and out of Ushuaia and El Calafate. L.A.D.E. has offices in every town on their itinerary except Alto Río Senguer and Río Mayo. Below is a summary of their flights; detailed information can be obtained from their Web site. In addition most of their agencies have e-mail addresses which I have included under the respective towns. Their main flight base is in Comodoro Rivadavia. Services from Aeroparque Jorge Newbery • Bariloche via Mar del Plata, Bahía Blanca, Viedma, Neuquén, and Chapelco Bariloche; 1 weekly • Trelew via Mar del Plata, Bahía Blanca, Viedma, San Antonio Oeste, and Puerto Madryn; 1 weekly Services from Alto Río Senguer • Comodoro Rivadavia via Río Mayo; 1 weekly Air services Services from Bariloche • Buenos Aires (Aeroparque Jorge Newbery) via Chapelco, Neuquén, Viedma, Bahía Blanca, and Mar del Plata; 1 weekly • Comodoro Rivadavia via El Bolsón, El Maitén, and Esquel; 1 weekly • Comodoro Rivadavia via Esquel, Puerto Madryn, and Trelew; 1 weekly Services from Mar del Plata • Comodoro Rivadavia via Viedma, Neuquén, Bariloche, Esquel, Puerto Madryn, and Trelew; 1 weekly Services from Comodoro Rivadavia • Alto Río Senguer via Río Mayo; 1 weekly • Bariloche via Esquel; 1 weekly • Bariloche via Trelew, Viedma, and Neuquén; 1 weekly • Mar del Plata via Trelew, Puerto Madryn, Esquel, Bariloche, Neuquén, and Viedma; 1 weekly • Río Gallegos via Puerto Deseado, San Julián, Gobernador Gregores, and Santa Cruz; 1 weekly • Ushuaia via Perito Moreno, Gobernador Gregores, Lago Argentino, Río Gallegos, and Río Grande; 1 weekly • Ushuaia via Perito Moreno, Gobernador Gregores, Río Gallegos, and Río Grande; 1 weekly Services from Lago Argentino • Río Gallegos via Río Turbío; 1 weekly

General Information

66

BUENOS AIRES CITY L.A.D.E. air services — continued Services from Río Gallegos • Comodoro Rivadavia via Santa Cruz, Gobernador Gregores, San Julián, and Puerto Deseado; 1 weekly • Comodoro Rivadavia via Lago Argentino, Gobernador Gregores, and Perito Moreno; 1 weekly Services from Trelew • Buenos Aires (Aeroparque Jorge Newbery) via Puerto Puerto Madryn, San Antonio Oeste, Viedma, Bahía Blanca, and Mar del Plata; 1 weekly Services from Ushuaia • Comodoro Rivadavia via Río Grande, Río Gallegos, Lago Argentino, Gobernador Gregores, and Perito Moreno; 1 weekly • Lago Argentino via Río Grande, Río Gallegos, and Río Turbio; 1 weekly Aeropuerto Ministro Pistarini at Ezeiza range between $45.00 and $55.00. At the bus terminal you can get taxi fare estimates. It helps if you know the barrio you are traveling to. Colectivos These small buses cover a very wide area and are clean, frequent, and very fast. The basic fare is about $0.50. When taking a bus, look for little signs in the driver’s window, as all bus numbers represent several routes. Bus 86 (marked “Aeropuerto”) to the international airport at Ezeiza can be caught on Rivadavia just above Lora Subte station. This is a cheap and convenient way to go to the international airport if you have little luggage. The term colectivo is interchangeable with micro-bus. Remises Remises are radio-controlled cabs with fixed fares within a certain radius.

lowed on trains. Rail maps and timetables can be bought from station platforms. Stations are indicated on maps by the symbol -.. • Línea “A” runs under Calle Rivadavia, from Plaza de Mayo up to Primera Junta. Change at Lima station for Línea “C” • Línea “B” runs from the central post office, in Avenida L N Alem, under Avenida Corrientes, to Federico Lacroze station. Change at Pellegrini station for Línea “C” • Línea “C” links Plaza Constitución with the Retiro station and provides connections with all the other lines • Línea “D” runs from Plaza de Mayo under Diagonal Norte, Córdoba, and Santa Fe to the Palermo district, and terminates at Olleros. Change at 9 de Julio station for Línea “C” • Línea “E” runs from Plaza de Mayo through to Avenida San Juan and terminates at Plaza de los Virreyes. Change at Independencia station for Línea “C” The Subte has been privatized and is now run by Metrovías; new carriages are gradually being introduced. Taxis Taxis are easily recognizable by their yellow and black colors. Fares are approximately $1.00 per flag-fall plus $1.00 per km, but meters are not always reliable. Traveling outside the city limits, and at night, is expensive. No tipping is required, but there is a charge for luggage. Taxi fares to the international

U Motoring Clubs Automóvil Club Argentino (A.C.A.), Libertador 1850, Palermo @ 48027061; e-mail: [email protected]. The A.C.A. provides a range of services to members upon presentation of their membership card: a travel document service, road charts (“Hojas de Ruta”, and maps, vacation guides, and camping information. Tourist guides are available for sale. The club has its own service stations and accommodation facilities, which are of four kinds: motels, hosterías, hotels, and unidades turísticas. Motel accommodation

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General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL S Buses from Buenos Aires

The Buenos Aires bus terminal, Ramos Mejía 1680 @ 43100700 near Antártida, is next to Retiro rail station. It is a 400 m walk from the subway (Subte Línea “C”) to the terminal. Facilities in the terminal include travel information, toilets, a restaurant, and a luggage office. All bus companies operating outside a radius of 200 km must use this terminal. A minor bus terminal functions on Plaza Miserere near Estación Once. Buses Talsa and Transporte Luján (also known as Línea 52) run 6 buses daily to Luján (fare $3.50); Empresa Río de la Plata runs 24 daily to La Plata (fare $2.50). Some bus companies denote their departure from Buenos Aires bus terminal simply as “Ramos Mejía”, the street where the main bus terminal is located. Long-distance bus companies operating from Ramos Mejía bus terminal • A1 Abel y Marcial García, Calle 10–3516, Villa Lynch @ (011) 47554496 ° Bahía Blanca via San Miguel del Monte, Las Flores, Cacheri, Azul, Chillar, Juárez, Gonzáles Cháves, Tres Arroyos, Coronel Dorrego, and Punta Alta ° Claromecó • A11 Autotransportes San Juan, @ 43139625 ° Córdoba via Venado Tuerto, Río Cuarto, and Villa General Belgrano ° San Juan via Villa Mercedes and San Luis • A23 Cacorba @ 43132651 ° Catamarca via Córdoba, Santiago del Estero, and Tucumán ° La Falda via Córdoba and Carlos Paz • A28 Central Argentino, local 47 @ 43151654/1868 • A33 T.A. Chevallier @ 43133297 ° Corrientes via Rosario, Santa Fe, La Paz, Esquina, and Goya ° Miramar (Buenos Aires Province) ° San Martín de los Andes via Mercedes, Bolívar, Salazar, Trenque Lauquen, Telen, General Acha, Santa Rosa, and Neuquén ° Tucumán via Venado Tuerto, La Carlota, Río Cuarto, Villa Dolores, Mina Clavero, Córdoba, and Santiago del Estero • A34 Chevallier Paraguaya, @ 43132349 ° Ciudad del Este via Asunción (Paraguay) • A37 Ciudad de Posadas • A55 El Cóndor @ 43131700 • A61 El Norte Bis @ 43151102 • A68 El Rápido Argentino, Avenida Mitre 268 (1870), Avellaneda @ 42019001; Retiro bus terminal @ 43152505 ° Santa Clara del Mar • A71 Central El Rápido/TATA, @ 43133836/3849 ° Corrientes via Rosario, Santa Fe, Paraná, La Paz, Esquina, and Goya ° Federal via Rosario del Tala, Nogoyá, Crespo, Gualeguay, Victoria, Diamante, and Villaguay ° Paso de los Libres via Gualeguaychú, Concepción del Uruguay, Colón, and Concordia ° Presidente Roque Sáenz Peña via Santiago del Estero, Charata, and Las Breñas ° Pocitos (Bolivian border) via Rosario, Rafaela, Añatuya, Quimilí, La Banda, Santiago del Estero, Monte Quemado, Orán, Tartagal • A73 El Santiagueño @ 43123602 • A75 El Serrano @ 43140591 ° Miramar via Mar del Plata • A76 El Sureño ° Tres Arroyos • A82 Empresa Antón, @ 43133078 ° Villa Gesell via Chascomús, Dolores, Maipú, Pinamar

General Information

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BUENOS AIRES CITY Buses from Buenos Aires — continued • • • • •

• •

• •

• •

• • • • • • • • •

A94 Empresa Gutiérrez @ 43122899 A97 Empresa Itatí, local 202 @ 43151654/1867. Services to Corrientes and east side of province Entre Ríos along Río Uruguay A99 Empresa Jocolí @ 43142248 A100 Empresa Kurtz ° Misiones via Entreríos and Corrientes Province A101 Empresa Liniers, @ 43130568/3642 ° Olavarría via Azul; 4 daily ° Santa Rosa (La Pampa Province) via La Plata, Lobos, Roque Pérez, Saldillo, 25 de Mayo, General Alvear, Tapalqué, Bolívar, and Carhué ($28.00; 8 hrs); 1 daily A109 Río de la Plata, @ 43133616 ° Pinamar via Santa Teresita, Mar de Ajó, San Clemente del Tuyú, General Madariaga, and Villa Gesell A121 Expreso Caraza, Ejercito de los Andes 1371 Lomas de Zamora @ 42415362/42420191 ° Tres Arroyos ° Neuquén via Azul; 1 daily A122 Expreso Córdoba–Mar del Plata A124 El Riojano ° Alta Gracia (11 hrs) via Rosario and Córdoba; 1 daily ° Catamarca (15 hrs) via Rosario, Córdoba, Jesús María, Dean Funes; 1 daily at 19:00 ° Chilecito (18 hrs) via Rosario, Córdoba, Villa Carlos Paz, Cosquín, La Falda, Cruz del Eje, Villa de Soto (13 hrs), Chamical, Patquia, and Vichigasta; 1 daily at 15:30 ° La Rioja (15 hrs) via Córdoba, Chamical, and Patquia; 1 daily at 20:00 ° Ascochinga via Córdoba and Río Ceballos (101 2 hrs); 1 daily at 23:00 ° Los Cocos via Córdoba, Villa Carlos Paz (111 2 hrs), Cosquín, La Falda, La Cumbre, and Cruz Chica; 5 daily A128 Expreso El Pingüino A130 Expreso Río Paraná @ 43132402/43150234 ° Tandil via Olavarría ° Azul ($15.00); 3 daily ° Asunción (Paraguay) via Posadas and Encarnación (Paraguay) A132 Expreso Singer @ 43152653 ° Puerto Iguazú via Curuzú Cuatía, Yapeyú, Santo Tomé, Apóstoles, Posadas, Oberá, San Ignacio, Puerto Rico, Montecarlo, El Dorado, and Cataratas A133 Expreso Tigre Iguazú @ 43133915/3937 A134 Expreso Uspallata @ 43141258 A135 Expreso Via Bariloche A137 Flecha Bus, local 305 @ 43152781/2. Services to Entre Ríos along RN 14 (Río Uruguay) A141 Empresa Godoy, La Brújula @ 43133167 ° Asunción (Paraguay) via Rosario, Santa Fe, Resistencia, Formosa, and Puerto Pilcomayo; with connections to Salta and Jujuy in Formosa A142 Horiansky A146 Italmar, Italia 1082, Burzaco @ (011) 42991706 ° Claromecó and Punta Desnudez A154 La Encarnaceña @ 43132393 ° Asunción via Posadas and Encarnación (Paraguay)

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General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL Buses from Buenos Aires — continued •

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

A155 La Estrella @ 43131700 ° Bahía Blanca via Santa Clara del Mar, Mar del Plata, Miramar, Necochea, Tres Arroyos, and Coronel Dorrego ° Claromecó ° Comodoro Rivadavia via La Plata, Azul, Olavarría, Laprida, Coronel Suárez, Coronel Pringles, Tres Arroyos, Coronel Dorrego, Monte Hermoso, Punta Alta, Bahía Blanca, Sierra Grande, San Antonio Oeste, Puerto Madryn, Trelw, and Rawson; with connections to Cipolletti, Neuquén, Bariloche, and San Martín de los Andes ° Tandil via San Miguel del Monte, Las Flores, and Rauch A157 La Internacional, @ 4313666 ° Asunción (Paraguay) via Rosario, Santa Fe, San Justo, Calchaquí, Reconquista, Las Toscas, Resistencia, Posadas, and Encarnación (Paraguay) A164 La Veloz del Norte @ 43152482 A170 Liparotti ° San Vicente via Ciudadela, San Martín, Villa Ballester, Boulogne, Villa Adelina, Olivos, and San Andrés A180 Micromar @ 43134107 ° Lobería via Mar del Plata, Balcarce, and Miramar A187 Nuestra Señora de la Asunción A190 Pluma Brasil @ 43133901 ° Río do Janeiro via Foz do Iguazú and Sao Paolo ° Curitiba (Brasil) via Uruguayana, Porto Alegre, Florianopolis, and Camboriu A191 T.A. Plusmar, C. Pellegrini 2959 (1878) Quilmes @ 42501261 fax 42001407 ° Tres Arroyos A193 Puerto Tirol A206 Empresa Sierras de Córdoba @ 43132771 ° Capilla del Monte via Rosario, Bell Ville, Villa María, and Córdoba A211 T.A.C. @ 43133632/43133627 ° Córdoba via Mercedes, Merlo, and Mina Clavero ° Santiago de Chile via San Luis and Mendoza A224 La Unión del Sud ° Tres Arroyos A233 Transportes Atlántida, Araoz 2026 @ 47710800 ° Luján; fast services via RN 7 and RN 8 ° Mar Chiquita A248 Turismo Patri, Avenida Rivadavia 11986 Ciudadela @ (01653) 44494 fax (01653) 44595 ° Mar del Plata A251 TUS @ 43123659 A262 El Valle, @ 43133749 ° Zapala via Cipolletti, Neuquén, Cutralcó, and General Roca A270 La Estrella del Chaco @ 43133078 ° Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña via Santa Fe and Resistencia A273 Crucero del Norte A299 ABLO and General Urquiza, local 30–33 @ 43132729/43132835/43132771 A301 Expreso Panamericano @ 43152745 A302 Don Otto @ 43132503 ° Río Gallegos via Viedma, Puerto Madryn and Trelew; with connections to Esquel and Bariloche

General Information

70

BUENOS AIRES CITY Buses from Buenos Aires — continued °

Comodoro Rivadavia via La Plata, Azul, Olavarría, Laprida, Coronel Suárez, Coronel Pringles, Tres Arroyos, Coronel Dorrego, Monte Hermoso, Punta Alta, Bahía Blanca, Sierra Grande, San Antonio Oeste, Puerto Madryn, Trelew, and Rawson; with connections to Cipolletti, Neuquén, Bariloche, and San Martín de los Andes • A303 La Puntual • A305 Costera Criolla @ 43132449/2503 ° Balcarce via Tandil and Ayacucho ° Capilla del Monte via Córdoba, Carlos Paz, Cosquín, La Falda, and La Cumbre ° Río Gallegos via Mar del Plata, Miramar, Necochea, Tres Arroyos, Coronel Dorrego, Bahía Blanca, Sierra Grande, San Antonio Oeste, Trelew, and Comodoro Rivadavia ° San Bernardo via Santa Teresita and Mar de Ajó ° Bahía Blanca via Las Flores, Gonzáles Cháves, Tres Arroyos, and Punta Alta ° Santa Clara del Mar ° Tandil via La Plata, Chascomús, Dolores, Maipú, Ayacucho, and Rauch • A306 Expreso Mar del Sur ° Bahía Blanca via San Miguel del Monte, Las Flores, Cacheri, Azul, Chillar, Juárez, Gonzáles Cháves, Tres Arroyos, Coronel Dorrego, and Punta Alta • A308 El Zorzal @ 4315870 ° Santa Rosa (La Pampa Province) via Carhué ( 41 4 hours); daily at 16:00 except Tues and Thurs • A309 Ñandú del Sur @ 43150010 ° Bahía Blanca via Carhué 2 daily; return 06:00, 11:55 • A311 T.A. Mercedes ° Bariloche via Balcarce and Neuquén Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fares Alta Gracia $35.00 Asunción (Paraguay) $95.00 Bahía Blanca $30.00 Bariloche $76.00

Frequency 3 daily

Caleta Olivia $85.00 Camboriú (Brazil) $90.00 Catamarca $50.00 Claromecó $35.20 Clorinda $65.80 Colón $20.00 Comodoro Rivadavia $82.00 Concepción del Uruguay $18.00 Concordia $23.00 Córdoba $30.00 Corrientes $38.00 Curitiba (Brazil) $95.00 El Bolsón $75.00 Esquel $95.00

3 weekly

3 daily 3 daily 6 daily

2 daily 3 daily

Duration Company 12 hrs A33, A299 21 hrs A34, A157, A187 10 hrs A155, A302, A303 23 hrs A33, A76, A135, A155, A211, A262, A303 32 hrs A128, A302

3 daily 7 daily

27 hrs Rápido Yguazú, Pluma 17 hrs A23, A33, A211 A146 A34, A157, A187 A71, A137

4 daily

24 hrs A128, A211, A302, A303

7 daily 7 daily 12 daily 8 daily

A137 6 hrs A71, A137 10 hrs A23, A33, A299 14 hrs A97, A112, A71, A33, A37, A193

2 daily 2 weekly 4 weekly

35 hrs Pluma, Rápido Yguazú 26 hrs A76, A311 28 hrs A76, A302

71

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL Buses from Buenos Aires — continued •

• • •

Florianópolis (Brazil) $85.00 Formosa $50.00 Foz do Iguaçu (Brazil) $60.00 Gualeguaychú $25.00 Jujuy $65.00 Junín de los Andes $80.00 La Plata $2.20 La Rioja $53.00 Lima (Peru) $160.00

•

Luján

•

Mar del Plata

• •

Mendoza $50.00 Mercedes (Corrientes) $43.00 Merlo $45.00 Mina Clavero $45 Miramar $30.00 Monte Hermoso Montevideo $25.00 Necochea $25.00 Neuquén $45.00 Oberá $43.00 Paraná $24.00 Paso de los Libres Pinamar $20.00 Pocitos $83.00 Posadas $40.00

• • • • •

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

2 daily 7 daily

26 hrs Pluma, Rápido Yguazú 18 hrs A34, A61, A157, A187, A193

2 daily 3 daily 3 daily

19 hrs Rápido Yguazú, Pluma 3 hrs A71, A137 22 hrs A157, A301

5 daily 8 daily 2 daily 1 daily

22 hrs 2 hrs 17 hrs 80 hrs

$3.00

5 daily

$25.00

10 daily

A33, A155, A211, A262, A303 A33, A109 A299 Tepsa, El Rápido Internacional, Ormeño Transporte Luján (Línea 52), Talsa, Transportes Atlántida (Línea 57) 7 hrs A33, A68, A82, A109, A180, A302, A303, A305 13 hrs A33, A99, A134, A211

5 daily

A71 12 hrs A75, A99, A211 17 hrs A33, A211 8 hrs A180 A303 9 hrs General Urquiza 7 hrs A303, A305 15 hrs A33, A55, A155, A262, A303 17 hrs A132 8 hrs A71, A137 A132, A273, A28, A82, A109 26 hrs A164 14 hrs A37, A100, A133, A132, A135, A142, A273

3 daily 1 daily 2 daily 2 daily 4 daily 5 daily 1 daily 5 daily 7 daily 4 daily 1 daily 7 daily

Porto Alegre (Brazil) $71.00 2 daily Presidencia Roque.Saenz Peña $61.00 1 daily Puerto Iguazú $50.00 7 daily

21 hrs

17 hrs A71, A157 21 hrs A273, A100, A37, A142, A135, A132 20 hrs A211, A303, A302 13 hrs A157 15 hrs A61, A130, A154, A157, A193

Puerto Madryn $57.00 5 daily Reconquista $35.80 2 daily Resistencia $43.00 5 daily Rio Do Janeiro (Brazil) $117.00 2 daily Río Gallegos $107.00 4 daily Rosario $20.00 10 daily Salta $80.00 4 daily San Antonio de Areco 6 daily San Clemente del Tuyú $24.00 4 daily San Martín de los Andes $90.00 5 daily

General Information

Pluma, Rápido Yguazú

48 hrs 40 hrs 6 hrs 22 hrs 11 2 hrs

Pluma, Rápido Yguazú A128, A155, A211, A302, A303 A33, A71, A73, A157, A193, A299 A157, A164 A33, A68 A71, A109

23 hrs A33, A155, A211, A262, A303

72

BUENOS AIRES CITY Buses from Buenos Aires — continued • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

San Juan $54.00 San Luis $45.00 San Rafael $46.00 Santa Fe $21.00 Santa Rosa $37.00 Santiago de Chile$60.00 Santiago del Estero $45.00 São Paolo (Brasil) $101.00 Sierra de la Ventana $25.00 San Martín de los Andes $70.00 Tandil $15.00 Termas de Río Hondo $43.00 Trelew $76.00 Tucumán $60.00 Viedma $64.00 Villa Gesell $20.00 Zapala $65.00

3 daily 5 daily 3 daily 4 daily 7 daily 2 daily

16 hrs 12 hrs 13 hrs 6 hrs 9 hrs 21 hrs

12 daily

16 hrs A23, A28, A33, A34, A55, A71, A73, A164, A211

2 daily

42 hrs Pluma, Rápido Yguazú

1 daily

71 2 hrs A55, A155, A303

5 daily 3 daily

23 hrs A33, A55, A155, A211, A262 6 hrs A305, Río Paraná

2 daily 4 daily 8 daily 4 daily

15 hrs 22 hrs 16 hrs 14 hrs 7 hrs 19 hrs

4 daily

A11 A11, A33, A99, A211 A55, A134, A155, A211, A303 A71, A157, A193 A33, A303, El Zorzal A33, A211

A55, A155 A128, A155, A211, A302, A303 A23, A33, A55, A97, A164, A211 A155, A303, A82, A109 A33, A262

You can have your bill sent to your home address if you wish • Budget Rent-a-Car, Avenida Santa Fe 869, Retiro @ 43119870 fax 43153814 • Dollar Rent A Car, M.T. de Alvear 523, Retiro @ 43158800 fax 43132752; e-mail: [email protected]; Web site: http://www.dollar.com.ar • Localiza Rent a Car, Calle Paraguay 1122, Retiro @ 48162545 fax 48160899. Available for hire are: Fiat Uno, Fiat Tempra, GM Corsa, VW Golf, VW Pointer, VW Senda, Ford Galaxy, Ford Fiesta, Ford Escort, Ford Orion, Renault 9, Renault 19, Peugeot 205, Peugeot 504, Peugeot 306, Peugeot 405, Chrysler Neon, and Daewoo Racer Hire charges in Argentina are expensive. Daily rates with the established car rental firms range upwards from $90.00 for a small car which includes tax and insurance, and 300 free km.

is limited to overnight stays. Hosterías are pleasant places and very friendly. Meals of some sort are available at all four types of accommodation. If you are a member of a motoring association you may even get a discount on your map purchases. If you plan to do a lot of driving it is worth joining the A.C.A. as there are discounts in many hotels for A.C.A. members. Car rental Petrol in Buenos Aires costs $0.85 per litre, and in the provinces $0.90–$1.20 per litre. In the southern part of Patagonia petrol prices are cheaper. Driving in the city of Buenos Aires is not advisable. The same applies to crossing the border to another countrywith a hire car because of the associated red tape. When hiring a car ascertain whether tax and insurance are included in the hire charges. • Autorentas del Atlántico Hertz, Dr. Ricardo Rojas 451 Barrio Retiro @ 43121317 • A1 Rent a Car, M.T. de Alvear 678 @ 43111000 fax 43117491; e-mail: [email protected] • Avis Rent-a-Car, Cerrito 1527, Retiro @ 43265542 fax 43173777/43266992.

# Water transport

The Buenos Aires Herald, an English-language newspaper, lists all shipping schedules. • To Rosario and Corrientes, up the Río Paraná and Río Paraguay: Flota

73

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL T Trains from Buenos Aires

The railroad information office is at Florida 729, and is open Mon–Sat 07:00–21:00, Sun 07:00–13:00. The long-distance rail stations with passenger services are: • Estación Retiro, Ave. Ramos Mejía 1430 @ 43118704/8264. This is now mainly a commuter station for trains going to the suburbs ° TUFESA, Ave. Ramos Mejía 1338 @ 43138060. Only TUFESA (Tucumán Ferrocarriles SA) run long-distance trains to Tucumán via Rosario and La Banda in Santiago del Estero Province • Estación Constitución, General Hornos 11 @ 43040028/31 is the main station for commuter trains going south. There are still daily trains to Mar del Plata and services to Bariloche via Bahía Blanca; also trains for La Plata depart from here ° Ferro Baires is the company operating the trains in Buenos Aires Province • Estación Once, Ave Pueyrredón near B. Mitre 48610043. Mainly a commuter line to western destinations in Buenos Aires Province ° Ferro Expreso Pampeano @ 43312702 runs some services to Santa Rosa in La Pampa Province Railroad stations can be reached by Subte: • Línea “C” connects Estación Retiro with Estación Constitución • Línea “A” connects Estación Once Long-distance services from Estación Constitución Train

Departs

Services

Duration

Return

To Bahía Blanca via Olavarría, General Lamadrid, Pigüé , and Tornquist •

El Bahiense 21:10 Tues, Thurs, Fri, Sun 19:35 Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat Duration: Pigüé 91 4 hrs; Tornquist 101 4 hrs; Bahía Blanca 121 4 hrs

To Bahía Blanca via Olavarría, Coronel Pringles, and Sierra de la Ventana •

El Bahiense 21:10 Mon, Wed, Sat 20:00Tues,Thurs,Sun.fromBahíaBlanca Duration: Olavarría 5 hrs; Coronel Pringles 8 hrs; Sierra de la Ventana 91 4 hrs; Bahía Blanca 12 hrs

To Bolívar •

18:55

1 daily

63 4 hrs 03:25

Alfonsina Storni 15:30 1 daily Bonaerense 08:25 1 daily Ciudad de Mar del Plata 18:30 1 daily Cruz del Sur 23:30 1 daily El Marplatense 10:15 Fri Two weekly January/February Stella Maris 06:55 1 daily Tren 4301 19:45 1 daily Tren 4302 08:05 1 daily

43 4 hrs 10:30 41 2 hrs 17:30

To Mar del Plata • • • • • • • •

41 2 hrs 08:40 43 4 hrs 23.55 41 4 hrs 20:45 Sun 5 hrs 18:40 43 4 hrs 5 hrs

To Miramar •

06:55

1 daily

10 hrs

To Pinamar •

09:00 1 daily 12 hrs Connects with buses to Ostende, Valeria del Mar, Villa Gesell, Cariló, San Bernardo, and Mar de Ajó

To Quequén and Necochea (10 hrs) via Tandil (5 hrs) •

Brisas del Mar

General Information

20:30

Mon, Wed, Fri

74

BUENOS AIRES CITY Bookshops Fluvial del Estado boats leave twice a Argentines must be one of the most literweek from Dársena Sur (south basin) ate peoples on earth judging by the numHovercraft services ber of first-rate bookshops in Buenos At the Hydrofoil Terminal Dársena Aires. Norte a departure tax is collected: $6.00 • ABC, Córdoba 685, Retiro to Colonia and $10.00 to Montevideo. & • El Ateneo, Florida 340, San Nicolás. • Aliscafos Puente Fluvial, Avenida Stocks books in seventeen languages Córdoba 787, San Nicolás @ 43144691 Librería Goethe, Corrientes 366, San • fax 43131356 Nicolás. Good selection of German • Ferrytur, Avenida Córdoba 699, San books, both new and second-hand Nicolás @ 43156800 fax. The ferry terLibrería Hachette, Avenida Córdoba • minal is in Dársena Sud, Avenida 936, San Nicolás. French books Brasil Dique 1 @, 43001366 • Librería Leonardo, Córdoba 335, • Seacat terminal,Dársena Norte, Retiro. Italian books Viamonte near Costanera Sur • Plazoleta Primera Junta, Caballito. @ 43145100 Books and magazines on Saturdays ° Seacat hydrofoil to Colonia (Uru12:00–20:00 and Sundays 10:00–20:00 guay): Sat 11:30, Sun 09:00, 15:30, • Plazoleta Santa Fe, corner of Santa Fe 19:00 and Uriarte, Palermo. Old books and • Aliscafos Buquebus, Córdoba 867 San magazines, Saturdays 12:00–20:00, Nicolás @ 43134444 fax 43620230. HovSundays 10:00–20:00 ercraft depart from Dársena Sur, • There is a well-stocked second-hand Pedro de Mendoza 443 near Avenida bookshop inside the shopping arcade Brasil. Ferries to Colonia and Montein front of Once station, Barrio video. Shuttle bus from downtown Balvanera. Books can be exchanged office to Dársena Sur and the prices are reasonable • Cacciola, Florida 520, San Nicolás Clothes @ 43945520/43936100 Shop in Florida and Avenida Santa Fe for • Ferrylíneas, Viamonte near menswear. Avenida Corrientes has a lot Costanera Sur, La Boca @ 43145100 of menswear shops between blocks 600 and 1000. Y Shopping There is also good shopping in Avenida Good streets for shopping are Calle Cabildo in the Belgrano district. To reach Florida, a mall in the main business disit take bus 152 from Retiro station. trict, and Avenida Santa Fe, which For casual clothes try the boutiques in the crosses Florida at Plaza San Martín. barrio of Martínez. Avenida Santa Fe is less touristy and less expensive than Florida. Galerías Pacífico Photographic equipment occupies one entire block in Calle Florida • Laboclick, Esmeralda 444, San and is a major shopping center with bouNicolás. Same-day service for prints, tiques and up-market cafés catering for 24 hours for slides those with good taste and the wallet to • Le Lab, Viamonte 612 corner of prove it. Florida, San Nicolás Shopping centers and malls Souvenirs and antiques Porteños are extremely proud of their ofThe best buys are found in the San Telmo ten opulent galerías (malls), truly a sign district, particularly on Defensa, Carlos of the country’s regained prosperity. Calvo, and Humberto. • Patio Bullrich, Libertador 740, Retiro Antiques • Unicenter, Paraná 3745 • Plaza Dorrego, Humberto Primero • Alto Palermo, Arenales 3360, and Defensa Barrio San Telmo. Here Palermo on Sundays the Fería de San Telmo • Paseo Alcorta, Salguero 3172, holds a market for souvenirs and anPalermo tiques between 10:00 and 17:00. Street performers entertain the shoppers

75

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL •

There is another excellent racecourse with a grass track at San Isidro, 25 minutes north from the city center by train or car. The meetings alternate with those at Palermo. There are Saturday and Sunday races throughout the year, and on all holidays except May 25 and July 9. Betting is by totalizator Swimming The water in the Río de la Plata is highly contaminated and swimming is prohibited.

and sightseers. Very touristy. Catch a 29 bus from Rivadavia near Calle Florida Handicrafts • Fería de Las Artes, corner of Defensa and Alsina. Fridays 14:00–17:00 • Craft and jewelry market on Saturdays 10:00–18:00 at corner of Avenida Santa Fe and Plaza Italia. Take Subte Línea “D” • Paintings in the Caminito, La Boca Stamps and coins • Rivadavia 4900 corner of Parque Rivadavia. Vendors congregate around the ombú tree. Sundays 09:00–13:00

p Sightseeing

The Dirección de Turismo de Buenos Aires organizes free guided bus or walking tours through the city. Reservations to be made Tues–Fri 10:00–12:00 @ 43711496. All historic churches are open 17:00–20:00. For art galleries, museums, and libraries check at the tourist office for opening hours. Admission to museums costs $1.00–$10.00. Sights are listedunder individual barrios.

a Sport Boating • Yacht Club Argentino, Viamonte near Costanera Sur, Retiro @ 43825414. Campeonato de Otoño (Autumn Championships) are held in May Golf Asociación Argentina del Golf (Argentine Golf Association), Avenida Corrientes 538, 11th floor, San Nicolás @ 4394743/2972. • Costa Golf Center, Golf driving range, Avenida Rafael Obligado between Salguero and Avenida Sarmiento Costanera Norte, Barrio Palermo @ 48019245. Open 08:00–20:00 • Golf Club José Jurado, Avenida Coronel Roca 5025 (1437) @ 46027507/ 6960 • Golf Club Lagos de Palermo, Avenida Tornquist near Olleros 1426, Barrio Palermo @ 47727261/7576 • Santa Marguerita Golf Club, Maipú 872, 1st floor (1066) @ 43220947 Cancha (01478) 481941 There are also golf courses at Hurlingham, Ranelagh, Ituzaingó, Lomas, San Andrés, San Isidro, Sáenz Peña, Olivos, Jockey, Campo Argentinos, and Hindú Country Club. Racing • The Hipódromo Argentino (Argentine Racecourse), Avenida del Libertador 4101 is next to Parque Palermo, Barrio Palermo; seats about 45 000. Major events are held in May, June General Information

s Excursions Tour operators The operators listed conduct tours within the capital, to the outskirts of Buenos Aires such as Tigre Delta, Luján, La Plata. Also listed are tour operators who conduct tours to provincial destinations. • Aristarain Viajes, Viamonte 611, 6th floor, San Nicolás @ 43223779/9665 fax • Buenos Aires Tur, Lavalle 1444 oficina 6, San Nicolás @ 43712304 • Buenos Aires Vision, Esmeralda 356 8th floor, San Nicolás @ 43942986/4682 • Cacciola Viajes y Turismo, Florida 520, 1st floor, San Nicolás @ 43945520. Tours to Isla Martín García from Tigre boat terminal; excursions daily at 08:00 • City Service Travel Agency, Florida 890, Retiro @ 43128416 fax 43139407. American Express agent • Comarcas Viajes y Turismo, Laprida 1380, Recoleta @ 48261130 fax 48211876. Organizes tours to Esteros del Iberá and and polo ranches • Feeling Turismo, Ave. L.N. Alem 762 @ 43135533 fax 48112011. Specializes in

76

BUENOS AIRES CITY e-mail: [email protected]. Tours to Mendoza, Salta, trekking the southern Inca trail from Salta visiting Santa Rosa de Tastil; to Laguna Pozuelos in Jujuy Province • Nova Terra S.A., Suipacha 370, 7th floor, San Nicolás @/fax 43260682. Tours to El Calafate in Santa Cruz Province Tour operators in Olivos, Buenos Aires Province • Catamaranes Libertad, Avenida Corrientes near Avenida Libertador, barrio of Olivos @ 47997308. Boat excursions from Puerto de Olivos Sat 16:00 and Sun 15:00 and 17:00 Excursions • Isla Martín García: Situated about 45 km from Buenos Aires in the Río Uruguay delta. Juan de Solis was the first European to make landfall here in 1516. For many centuries this island was the staging point for expeditions of conquest. In its time the island has been occupied by the Portuguese, Spanish, Uruguayans, Brazilians, and English. The last invasion was by Anglo-French troops in 1845 under the command of Giuseppe Garibaldi, as a starting point for his proposed invasion of Argentina. When the island returned to Argentine hands it was used as a military prison where several of Argentina’s presidents have been incarcerated. Now it is a wildlife sanctuary. A small town has sprung up around the fortifications. There is a small hotel, and an air service. The boat trip from Tigre takes two hours through the islands of the delta. Also camping on the island • Montevideo, Uruguay: Budget travelers can make a day trip going by high-speed ferries (21 2 hrs, $28.00 week days, $38.00 weekends). Tour operators organize two-day tours for around $110.00 which include Seacat hydrofoil to Colonia, bus Colonia–Monteviedo, half board, city tour and one night in a three-star hotel. See “Water transport” on page 73 . Make sure you have a visa for Uruguay as it may take several days to get one in Buenos Aires

trips, resort bookings, and outdoor activities in Mendoza Province • Flyer Viajes, Reconquista 617, 8th floor, San Nicolás @ 43138224 fax 43121330. Dutch, English, French and German spoken; credit cards accepted • Historical Tours, Arroyo 897/14 Barrio Retiro @ 432267210. Organizes sailing trips on the Río de la Plata • Infuetur, M.T. de Alvear 790 @ 43110233. Specializes in tours to Neuquén, Río Negro, Chubut and Santa Cruz; open Mon–Fri 09:00–17:00 • Interplanet, Esmeralda 740, 3rd floor, San Nicolás @ 43934752 fax. Organizes tours to Uruguay, Bariloche, and Iguazú Falls • Saltur, Esmeralda 847, 18th floor @ 43136372; e-mail: saltur @ssdnet. com.ar; Web site: www.ssdnet.com. ar/saltur • Tren Histórico, Federico Lacroze 4181, Chacarita @ 45539214 • Turar, B. Mitre 559, 4th floor, San Nicolás @ 43422999 • Turismo Estrella Cóndor, Avenida Córdoba 827, 1st floor, Retiro @ 43126099 fax 43133803 • Turismo Tastil, Córdoba 632, 4th floor @ 43228899, fax 43220777, e-mail: [email protected]. Specializes in tours to Salta, Jujuy, and Tucumán Ecotour operators & • Lihué Expeditions, Maipú 926, Barrio Retiro @ 43150906/43119610 fax email: lihueexpeditions@sudnet. com.ar. This company specializes in tours off the beaten track and wildlife safaris, such as to Esteros del Iberá and the Patagonian glaciers. E n glish-speaking guides • Gador Viajes, Tucumán 941, 1st floor C, Barrio San Nicolás @ 43229806 fax 43226344; e-mail: 7300.364@ compuserve.com • Interlagos, Suipacha 472 oficina 304, Barrio San Nicolás @ 43933541 fax 43944841; e-mail: interlagos@cotecal. com.ar. Specializes in trips to Lago Argentino in Santa Cruz Province and to Tierra del Fuego • Kallpa Tour, Roque Sáenz Peña 811, 5th floor, @ 43941830 fax 43266371; 77

General Information

CAPITAL FEDERAL •

•

•

Tigre and the Río Paraná delta, known as Delta: The delta covers 14 000 square kilometers. Get there by F C General Bartolomé Mitre train from Retiro station, or by colectivo 60. An alternative way to Tigre is by the Tren de la Costa which leaves from Olivos; there are good bus services from Buenos Aires to Olivos. Tour operators also run excursions to the Delta. Tigre is also the starting point for ferry services to Carmelo in Uruguay Colonia, Uruguay: This is a ferry trip to the Portuguese-founded city with its medieval town center still intact. Budget travelers can use direct ferry (3 hrs, $11.00) or hydrofoil (1 hr, $25.00) to Colonia. Tour operators organize two-day tours for around $110.00 which includes ferry, half board and one night in a two-star hotel Bariloche: This is a trip to the lake region in northern Patagonia with the possibility of skiing in winter or hiking in a superb mountain region in summer, not forgetting the cruises on magnificent Lago Nahuel Huapi. Budget travelers can go by bus ($90.00, 23 hrs) or by train ($55.00–$105.00, 35 hrs). Tour operators organize eight-day tours for $235.00 which includes bus fares, 5 nights in a three-star hotel, half

•

•

board, and two excursions. See Bariloche on page 447 Cataratas del Iguazú (Iguazú Falls): These spectacular falls are in the north-eastern part of Argentina. This subtropical area is the remaining part of a once large subtropical forest cover now restricted to the Parque Nacional Iguazú which incorporates the falls. The trip goes mostly through fairly flat country until you reach Posadas, the capital of Misiones province. Budget travelers can go by direct bus to Puerto Iguazú (22 hrs). Tour operators organize bus and jet excursions. By bus: 6 days and three nights for $150.00. This includes bus fare, visits to the falls on both sides of the border, Wanda amethyst mine, Ciudad del Este in Paraguay, and the Jesuit mission of San Ignacio Mini, and three nights accommodation in a three-star hotel. By jet: 4 days and three nights for $310.00. This includes air fare, excursions to falls on both sides of the border, Ciudad del Este in Paraguay and Itapú dam. See also Puerto Iguazú on page 1014 Organized tours to Santa Cruz Province: See Comodoro Rivadavia on page 501 and Río Gallegos on page 577

THE BARRIOS The barrios of tourist interest are: • Almagro (page 79) • Balvanera (page 79) • Barracas (page 81) • Belgrano (page 82) • Constitución (page 85) • La Boca (page 85) • Monserrat — together with San Nicolás constitutes the commercial district (”Centro” or “Microcentro”) (page 87) • Palermo (page 90)

General Information

• • • •

•

78

Puerto Madero (page 92) Recoleta (page 93) Retiro (page 96) San Nicolás — together with Monserrat constitutes the commercial district (”Centro” or “Microcentro”) (page 98) San Telmo (page 103)

BUENOS AIRES CITY

Almagro

ALMAGRO

A

lmagro is bounded in the west by Río de Janeiro, in the south by Avenida Independencia, in the east by Loria and Sánchez Bustamente, and in the north by Avenida Angel Gallardo. The hub of this barrio is Plaza Almagro bounded by J. Salguero, Sarmiento, Bulnes and J.D. Perón. The Basilica San Carlos Borromeo is on Quintino Bocayuva 144 off Rivadavia 4000. Of interest is the Mercado de las Flores, the central flower market of Buenos Aires, at Avenida Corrientes 3900; it starts at midnight. Almagro is served by Subte Línea “A” and Línea “B”. It is a place for good restaurants and some tanguerías; not on the normal tourist circuit.

C Accommodation •

& •

•

La Esquina de Flores, Medrano 632. Vegetarian • A’Mamma Liberata, Medrano 974. K. Italian cuisine • Tuy Salceda, Maza 457. Spanish cuisine • Vegetariano, Sarmiento 1810. Vegetarian cuisine Restaurants with entertainment • Cyclope, Castro Barros 553 $X K. Italian and French cuisine; entertainment • Fernandezes, Billinghurst 699. Tango shows • Free Way, Ave. La Plata 551. International cuisine; live music • Mauna Loa, Medrano 1071. Argentine cuisine; dancing • La Tarantella, Medrano 476. Argentine cuisine; dancing

Metropolitan Hotel I, Ave. Corrientes 3973 @ 48623366 fax 49311133; e-mail: [email protected] ABDELV $H 2.. Subte Línea “B”, Medrano station; just around the corner. Backpacker accommodation $J 1 Metropolitan Hotel II, Ave. Boedo 449, @ 49327547 fax 49311133; e-mail: [email protected] ABDELV $H 2. Subte Línea “A”, Loria station; 10 minutes walk. Also handy for public buses to airport. Backpacker accommodation $J 1

E Eating out Restaurants • Cantina Don Carlos, Billinghurst 450; specialty pastas and seafood, $X. International cuisine • Cantina Il Formaggio, Agüero 900. Seafood • Centro Navarro, Moreno 3682. Seafood

M Services

•

Italian Hospital, Gascón 450

BALVANERA

Balvanera Maps • #6 Balvanera, Monserrat and San Nicolás: page 53 • #8 Balvanera and Recoleta: page 57 • #9 Recoleta: page 59

B

alvanera is bounded by Avenida Independencia, Avenida Entre Ríos, Avenida Callao, Avenida Córdoba, Avenida Díaz, Gallo, Sánchez de

79

Balvanera

CAPITAL FEDERAL Bustamente, and Loria. The hub of this barrio is the National Congress, seat of the Argentine government overlooking the Plaza del Congreso. Plaza Miserere with the Once railroad station is the starting point for passenger trains to destinations in Buenos Aires Province and La Pampa Province. The main shopping streets are Avenida Corrientes and Avenida Callao, with many good restaurants. On Avenida Callao are also many Casas de Provincias and the plush Hotel Bauen Buenos Aires. This barrio has some nice tanguerías-cum-dancing clubs which are moderately priced and welcome visitors. There are also a number of museums and historical buildings and the Facultad de Ciencias Económicas on Avenida Córdoba. Subte Línea “A” and Línea “B” provide fast and frequent services to the center. •

The district known as “Congreso” is not an official barrio, but is that part of Balvanera where the Government offices such as the Congress building and the “Tribunal” or High Court are situated.

Nihonbashi, Moreno 2095 $X. Credit cards accepted. Japanese cuisine, open Tues–Sun 19:30–24:00 • Prosciutto, B. Mitre 1699. Italian cuisine • Quorum, Combate de los Pozos 61. International cuisine • Yuki, Venezuela 2145. Japanese cuisine Restaurants with entertainmnet • Al Galope, Tucumán 2633. Parrilla. Tango shows

E Eating out Restaurants • Chez Barbette, La Rioja 1020. French cuisine

C Accommodation in Balvanera ***** *** *** ** ** ** * * * *

Bauen, Avenida Callao 346 Fax 43726822 Lyon, Riobamba 251 Sarmiento Palace, Sarmiento 1953 Fax 49536247 Ayamitre, Ayacucho 106 El Molino, Avenida Callao 164 N’Ontué, Corrientes 3321 Callao, Callao 292 Cóndor, La Rioja 258 Florentino, General Urquiza 187 Hispano Argentino, Catamarca 167

ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$TUVXYZ @ 43721600 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 43064684 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 49532038 AEFGJLPUV @ 49531655 AEFGJLPUV @ 43748941 AEFGJLPUV @ 48634098 AELPV @ 43723534 AELPV @ 49327626 AELPV @ 49329641 AEFLPV @ 49315543

Hospedajes A A A A A A A A

Bahía, H. Yrigoyen 3062 LP Gran Real, Riobamba 231 LP Gran Sarmiento, Sarmiento 1892 LP Miki, La Rioja 271 LP Oriental, B. Mitre 1840 LP San Agustín, Avenida Pueyrredón 121 LP Lourdes, Callao 44 LP Orleans, Callao 680 LP

Youth Hostel

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

49317198 43743526 43722764 49571614 49516427 48632131 49523087 48129342

$B $E

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$E/F $F $F $G $G $G $H $H

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• Che Lagarto Youth Hhostel, Combate de los Pozos 1151 AEL @ 43047618 $J 1 E-mail: che- [email protected]; 42 beds, shared accommodation and bathrooms. Subte Línea “E”, Entre Ríos station

Balvanera

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BUENOS AIRES CITY • • • • • • •

•

Aranjuez, Avenida Belgrano 2589. International cuisine; entertainment Café Homero, Cabrera 4946. Tango shows Thurs–Sat 23:00; admission $30.00 Boulevard, Ave. Callao 360. International cuisine; live music Club del Vino, Cabrera 4737. Tango show Sat 22:00, $30.00 El Molino, Rivadavia 1815. Tanguería La Casa de Carlos Gardel, Jean Jaurès 735. Tango show/dancing Sabor a Tango, Belgrano 2378. Tango shows Mon–Sun $40-$55.00. Tango instructions Wednesdays 14:00–19:00 and Sundays

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p Sightseeing •

Palacio del Congreso (the House of Assembly), Hipólito Yrigoyen 1869 at the far end of Avenida de Mayo, is Argentina’s legislature. Greco-Roman in style and monumental in size, it contains the Senate and the Chamber of Deputies. There is a public gallery but seating is limited. It opens at 17:00 and you must present your passport at the desk which checks in small groups. They will give you a pink slip as a receipt, and a ticket for your seat. You can stay as long as you like but must remain seated. Of interest is also the library which contains over 2.5 million books. The reading room is panelled with Italian walnut timber. This is a magnificent building, illuminated in the evening. Conducted tours in English, French, and Spanish

Barracas

•

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Fundación Banco Patricios (Banco Patricios Foundation), Callao 312. This is a theater venue Centro Cultural Ricardo Rojas (Ricardo Rojas Cultural Center), Avenida Corrientes 2038. Part of the Universidad de Buenos Aires, the Center stages cultural events and exhibitions and is open Mon–Sat 10:00–22:00. Admission to most events is free. Closed January/February. Best reached with Subte Línea “A”, Pasteur station; from there a short walk Museo Municipal del Cine Pablo C. Ducros Hicken (Pablo C. Ducros Hicken Cinema Museum), Sarmiento 2573. This museum traces the beginnings of the Argentine cinema from its beginnings in 1896 to the present. On exhibition are posters, photographs, movie projectors, and memorabilia which belonged to famous Argentine actors and actresses. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–18:30. Admission $1.00, Wednesdays free. Subte Linea “B”, Pueyrredón station Museo de Patrimonio Histórico de Aguas Argentinas (Argentine Water Museum), Riobamba 750. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–12:00. Best reached on Subte Línea “D”, Callao station; from there a short walk. Admission free Mercado de Abasto built in 1893 between Corrientes, Lavalle, Anchorena and Agüero near Once station, has been redeveloped as a cultural and entertainment center. Subte Línea “B”, Carlos Gardel station

BARRACAS

T

his barrio is in the extreme south of the city and is limited by the course of the Riachuelo river, Defensa, Avenida Caseros, Avenida Vélez Sarsfield, and the tracks of the Ferrobaires railroad line. The focal point is Plaza Colombia, bounded by Avenida Montes de Oca, Isabel La Católica Brandsen, and Pinzón. On the Plaza is Iglesia Santa Lucia, Avenida Montes de Oca 550.

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Barracas

CAPITAL FEDERAL E Eating out

Restaurants with entertainment • Buenos Aires Sur, Vilariño 2359. Tango shows Fri and Sat $30.00 • Señor Tango, Vieytes 1655. Tango shows daily 22:15, $55.00. Dancing

Restaurants • Parrilla 1880, Defensa 1667. Parrilla • Mayorazgo, Uspallata 701. Spanish cuisine

Belgrano

BELGRANO

B

elgrano and Nuñez are better-class outer residential suburbs in the north-western part of Buenos Aires. Although there are a few hotels their main fame is the large concentration of excellent eating places and a good nightlife, in particular on Costanera Rafael Obligado around La Pampa. The heart of Belgrano is Plaza General Manuel Belgrano with the Iglesia de la Inmaculata and two museums on the Plaza. This barrio can be reached by suburban trains from Retiro station in about 15 minutes. Colectivos #59,# 152, and #158 travel from Retiro station to Nuñez via Belgrano.

c Accommodation

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Yin Yang, Echeverría 244. Chinese cuisine • Zeppelin, Cabildo 3500. German cuisine • Eating out along Costanera Norte • A Los Amigos, Avenida Rafael Obligado. Credit cards. Parrilla E Eating out • A’Nonna Innamorata, Avenida Rafael Obligado. Credit cards. Italian Restaurants cuisine • Bub y su Taverna, Ave. Santa Fe 5001. & • Banana Coconor, Avenida Rafael Italian cuisine; dancing Obligado near Pampa $Y. Credit • China Town, Juramento 1656. Chicards. Shows. nese cuisine • Happening, Avenida Rafael • Ciao Bella, J. Newbery 1638. Italian Obligado. Parrilla cuisine • El Bodegón de Olleros, Olleros 1752. & • Los Años Locos, Avenida Rafael Obligado. Credit cards. Parrilla International cuisine • Los Platitos, Avenida Rafael • El Ceibal, Avenida Cabildo 1421. Obligado. Credit cards. Parrilla Parrilla • María Belén, Rafael Obligado. Parrilla • Gabbiano Ristorante, Cuba 2272. Ital• Negro El 11, Avenida Rafael ian cuisine • La Casona de Tía Teresa, Juramento Obligado. Credit cards. Parrilla • Rancho Inn, Avenida Rafael 1755. International cuisine • La Vieja Farola de Belgrano, La Obligado. Parrilla • Rodizio, Avenida Rafael Obligado. Pampa 1575. International cuisine. • La Pastasciuta, La Pampa 1595. ItalNational cuisine • Yo y El, Rafael Obligado. Parrilla ian cuisine • Mis Raices, Arribeños 2148. Kosher Restaurants along Costanera Norte cuisine with entertainment • Sapoe, La Pampa 1391. Parrilla • A’Nonna Inmaculata, Ave. Rafael • 2020 Restaurante Asador, Arcos 1984. Obligado. Italian Parrilla •

Key’s Hotel, Zapata 315 @ 47728371 $G 2 Hotel de la Rue, Ramón Freire 1765 @ 45514884 fax near La Pampa block 3100 $G 2

Belgrano

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BUENOS AIRES CITY •

Pizza Banana, Ave. Costanera near La Pampa. Pizza and pasta

p Sightseeing •

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Museo de Arte Español “Enrique Larreta” (Enrique Larreta Museum of Spanish Art), Juramento 2291. The building dates from 1870. The exhibits here were once the personal collection of Enrique Larreta, a renowned Argentine writer. They comprise Spanish art from the 13th to 20th century, which includes religious paintings, tapestry, and ceramics. The most famous pictures are La Sagrada Familia painted in the 16th century and a painting of the Cuzco School. Open Mon, Wed and Fri 14:00–19:45, Sat and Sun 15:00–19:45. Admission $1.00; Tuesdays free. Colectivos from Subte Línea “D”, Palermo station: 41, 57, 60, 67, 152. Closed during January Museo Casa de Yrurtia (Casa Yrurtia Museum), O’Higgins 2390. Rogelio Yrurtia was a sculptor and painter. He converted this 19th century house into a Spanish baroque building. On exhibit are his sculptures and paintings, including that of his wife, together with paintings of other Argentine and foreign artists. Open Wed–Sun 15:00–19:00. Admission charge $1.00 Museo Histórico Sarmiento (Sarmiento Historical Museum), Cuba 2079. Domingo Fausto

Caballito

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Sarmiento was a famous Argentine historian, educator, and president. This is a replica of the house in San Francisco de Monte de Oro in San Luis province where he was teaching at the age of fifteen. Inside is a model of the house he was born in San Juan. Different editions of his famous book Facundo are also exhibited together with memorabilia of his time. Open Tues–Fri and Sun 15:00–19:00. Admission $1.00 Museo Nacional del Hombre (National Museum of Mankind), 3 de Febrero 1370. On exhibit are weavings and masks of several Argentine tribes from the Chaco and north-eastern regions right down to Patagonia including the pampas. Open Mon–Fri 13:00–18:00. Best reached on Subte Línea “D”, Olleros station, and from there a five minutes’ walk. Admission free Museo Líbero Badii (Libero Badii Museum), 11 de September 1990. This national trust building houses the works of the Argentine painter and sculptor Líbero Badii. The house has hundreds of water-colors and oil paintings; the garden is filled with his sculptures. Open Tues–Fri 14:00–18:00, Sat, Sun 15:00–19:00. Closed in January

CABALLITO

L

ocated almost in the geographical center of Capital Federal, Caballito shares borders with the barrios of Chacabuco, Flores, Boedo, Almagro, and Crespo.This barrio is outside the general map area. Of interest is the Parque Centenario bounded by Avenida Díaz Vélez, Patricias Argentinas, Angel Gallardo, and Campichuelo. On weekends and holidays an open-air art exhibition is held here. In Parque Rivadavia an open-air stamp and book fair is held.

The commercial center is in Acoyte off Rivadavia. Caballito is served by Subte Línea “A”.

C Accommodation Youth hostels • Albergue Oroño, Espinosa 1628 @ 5816663 $I 1

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Caballito

CAPITAL FEDERAL E Eating out Restaurants • Abolengo, Ave. Gaona 1327. Argentine cuisine; live music • Bremen, Avenida Rivadavia 4585 • Dorado, Avenida Angel Gallardo 599. Italian cuisine • El Faro, Avellaneda 1243. National cuisine • El Metro, Avenida La Plata 1385. International cuisine • Riojano, Avellaneda 1034. Spanish cuisine

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Museo de la Fundación “Romulo Raggio” (Museum of the Romulo Raggio Foundation) , Gaspar Campos 861. This is a small palace built in French style. It houses a collection of paintings, sculptures, ceramics, photographs and documents of the Raggio family. Open Sat and Sun 16:00–19:00 Museo Argentino de Ciencias Naturales “Bernardino Rivadavia” (Bernardino Rivadavia Argentine Natural Sciences Museum), Avenida Angel Gallardo 470, in the Parque

Colegiales

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Centenario. A museum of natural history and science. Open Mon–Sun 14:00–18:00. Take Subte Línea “B” to Angel Gallardo station and walk from there. Admission $1.00 Museo de Escultura Luis Perlotti (Luis Perlotti Sculpture Museum), Pujol 642. This was the home and studio of the sculptor Luis Perlotti. On exhibit are a large part of his works together with a permanent exhibition of plastic arts. Open Tues–Fri 09:00–19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00–13:00 and 14:00–20:00. Admission $1.00, Wednesdays free. Subte Línea “A”, Acoyte and Primera Junta stations are within walking distance Observatorio Astronómico (Astronomical Observatory), Avenida Patricias Argentinas 550; open Fri and Sat 21:00–22:00. Admission $3.00 Primer Museo Histórico Sudamericano “Dr. Ernesto Che Guevara”(Dr. Ernesto Che Guevara First South American Museum), Nicasio Oroño 458. Open Sat and Sun 17:00–22:00. Best reached on Subte Línea “A”, Primera Junta station; from there a short walk. Admission free

COLEGIALES

C

olegiales is a residential barrio with good restaurants and a few nice tanguerías-cum-dancing clubs which welcome visitors. Collegiales station is on the suburban Mitre railroad line. It is outside the general map area.

E Eating out

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Restaurants • La Robla, Avenida Alvarez Thomas 1300. Spanish cuisine Restaurants with entertainment • Bodensee, Ave. Cramer 2455. German cuisine; live music • Estilo 2001, Zapata 301. Tango shows • New York City, Avenida Alvarez Thomas 1391. Disco. Young patrons

Colegiales

Platense Club, General Paz near Zapiola @ 7966833. Tanguería

S Buses

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Colectivos #38, #41, #57, #59, #67, #68, #152, and #161 depart from Palermo station (Subte Línea “D”) Colectivo #194 departs from Plaza Italia station (Subte Línea “D”) Colectivos #42 and #63 depart from Lacroze station (Subte Línea “B”)

BUENOS AIRES CITY

CONSTITUCIÓN

Constitución Map #4 Monserrat and Constitución: page 49

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onstitución is located in the southern part of Capital Federal. It is bounded by Avenida Independencia, Avenida Entre Ríos, Avenida Caseros, and Piedras. On Plaza Constitución is the southern end of Avenida 9 de Julio which runs right through to Avenida del Libertador in Retiro. Constitución station on Plaza Constitución is the starting point for trains to La Plata, Mar del Plata, and beyond to Bahía Blanca and Bariloche. Constitución is served by Subte Líneas “A”, “C”, and “E”. Línea “C” connects Retiro and Constitución railroad stations, and goes right through the tourist area of Buenos Aires.

E Eating out

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Munich Constitución, Lima 1589. German cuisine • Maraxe, Chile 899. International cuisine Restaurants with entertainment • Cemento, Estados Unidos 1238. Disco; open Thurs, Fri, Sat

Restaurants • Basque Français, Moreno 1370. Seafood • El Patio de Aldo, Avenida Entre Ríos 1965. Spanish cuisine • Les Anciens Combattants, Santiago del Estero 1435. French cuisine

C Accommodation in Constitución Hotels *** ***

Constitución Palace, Lima 1697 Cosmos, Lima 1811

Residenciales A A A A

Alba, Avenida Garay 1381 Carlos I, Carlos Calvo 1463 Cyrus, Humberto I 1162 Gran Prince, Humberto I 1189

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LA BOCA

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a Boca is in the extreme southern part of Capital Federal, along the Riachuelo river. It begins at Parque Lezama. Inside the park is a huge statue of Pedro de Mendoza and, opposite Calle Defensa, is the Museo Histórico Nacional (National History Museum). Most of the people living in the Boca district are of Italian descent, and the place has its own distinctive traditions and restaurants. With its gardens and restaurants, this is a pleasant place on a hot summer’s day, and lures many tourists to the area, especially on weekends and public holidays. In charming little streets lined with brightly colored houses the locals still hang their laundry to dry on balconies, reminiscent of street scenes in some Italian cities. The Caminito, going up from the Riachuelo, is the heart of the barrio; here are many little eating places with two museums in the 85

La Boca

CAPITAL FEDERAL vicinity, and on the streets artists sell their paintings. Calle Necochea between Brandsen and Olavarría are also stacked with cantinas. Puente Nicolás Avellaneda spans the Riachuelo linking La Boca to the outer suburb of Avellaneda, in Buenos Aires Province. La Boca is home of the famous soccer club Boca Juniors with their huge sport complex Estadio La Bombonera in Brandsen. Nowadays many painters and artists live in this district, and it is part of the bohemian section of Buenos Aires. The Riachuelo has been an eyesore for a long time. Although a start has been made to remove many of the rusting scuttled boat wrecks there is still room for improvement.

the band is loud. Seats some 500 people There are several other similar places also on Necochea. Most serve antipasto and chicken, and they all have loud bands. Be warned!

S Buses

From the downtown area there are many bus services. Best place to catch a bus to La Boca is at L.N. Alem station of Línea “B” near the Central post office: • Colectivos: #20, #33, #54, #152, #159; these buses have stops in the area bounded by Ave. Pedro de Mendoza, Del Valle Iberluca, and Aristóbulo del Valle

E Eating out Restauranrts • Campo e Mare, Gregorio Aráoz de Lamadrid 701. Italian cuisine • Casa de Atún, Almirante Brown 1127. Italian cuisine • El Viejo Puente, Almirante Brown 1499. Italian cuisine • Il Matterello, Martín Rodríguez 517 $Y. Credit cards accepted. Italian cuisine; open Tues–Sat • La Cancha, Brandsen 697. Spanish cuisine. Lunch and dinner $Y; credit cards • Mario, Necochea 863. Italian cuisine Restaurtants with entertainment • Alma de Bohemia, Necochea 948. Tanguería • Cantina Gennarino, Necochea 1210. International cuisine; live music and dancing • El Samovar de Rasputín, Iberlucea 1251. Tanguería, dancing • Il Piccolo Vapore, Necochea 1190. Italian cuisine; live music • Spadavecchia, Necochea 1180. Italian cuisine. Fixed price menu. Show. Very popular. There’s dancing, and

La Boca

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Museo Nacional de Bellas Arte de la Boca de Artistas Argentinos “Quinquela Martín” (Quinquela Martín La Boca National Fine Arts Museum of Argentine Artists), Avenida Pedro de Mendoza 1835. This was the home of Argentine painter Benito Quinquela Martín. On exhibit are his works as well as works of other famous Argentine painters. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–18:00, Sat and Sun 10:00–17:00; closed January Museo de Cera de La Boca (La Boca Wax Museum), Del Valle Iberluca 1261. On exhibit are wax figures of historic personalities such as the explorers Magellan and Solís; Indian chiefs Calfucurá and Catriel; and the founders of Buenos Aires Mendoza and Garay. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–18:00; Sat and Sun 11:00–20:00. Admission $3.00 Parque Lezama, Brasil near Paseo Colón. Handicraft Fair held on Sat and Sun 10:00–20:00

BUENOS AIRES CITY

MONSERRAT

Monserrat Maps #4 Monserrat and Constitución: page 49 • #6 Balvanera, Monserrat, and San Nicolás: page 53 •

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onserrat occupies the very center of Buenos Aires. Many Argentine Government buildings are located here. It has magnificent parks and historic buildings including many museums. For some reason it has the largest concentration of Spanish restaurants, including the Club Español. Some cafés are virtually historic institutions, like the famous Café Tortoni. On the south side in and around Balcarce are many tanguerías or dancing venues. It is served by Subte Líneas “A”, “C”, and “E”.

E Eating out

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Restaurants • Centro Asturiano, Solís 475, 3rd floor • $X. Credit cards. Spanish cuisine • Club Español, Bernardo de Irigoyen 180 $X. Credit cards. Spanish cuisine • • El Imparcial, H. Yrigoyen 1201. Spanish cuisine • • El Jabalí, Belgrano 538. German cuisine & • Hispano, Salta 20. Seafood; Spanish & • cuisine • La Cabaña, Entre Ríos 436. Argentine cuisine • • Laurak-Bat, Belgrano 1144. Spanish cuisine • Lo Prete, Luis S. Peña 749. Spanish • cuisine • Pedemonte, Avenida de Mayo 676. Credit cards. International cuisine • Swedish Club, Tacuari 147, 5th floor n • Taberna Baska, Chile 980. Credit • cards accepted. Seafood; Spanish cui• sine • Villa Rosa, H. Yrigoyen 1389. Credit p cards. Seafood; Spanish cuisine • Restaurants with entertaiment • Atenas en Oniro, Tte. Gral. J.D. Perón 926, 1st floor. Greek cuisine; live music • Café Tortoni, Avenida de Mayo 829. Peña evenings, jazz music on weekends, and tango evenings. Tanguería; open daily from 21:00; admission $10.00. On the first floor is the Academia Nacional del Tango • Chino Central, Ave. Rivadavia 656. Chinese cuisine; entertainment 87

La Trastienda, Balcarce 460. Tanguería; from 20:00 tango classes, shows from 22:30 Michelangelo, Balcarce 433; $65.00–$75.00. Tanguería, dancing; shows start at 22:30. Spanish cuisine. Corrientes Angosta, Lavalle 750. Over-30s. Tanguería Ávila Bar, Avenida de Mayo 1384. Lunch $Y; flamenco shows admission $50.00. Spanish cuisine Casablanca, Balcarce 668. Tango shows Mon–Sat 22:00; admission $40.00 El Querandí, Perú 302. Argentine cuisine; tango shows Mon–Sat 22:30, admission $50.00 La Ventana, Balcarce 425. International cuisine; tango show daily 22:00, admission $60.00

Entertainment

Teartro Avenida, Ave. de Mayo 1212 Teatro del Sur, Venezuela 1286

Sightseeing

Casa de Gobierno, on the east side of the Plaza de Mayo. Popularly known as the Casa Rosada (Pink House) because of its color, this building contains the offices of the President. It was built on the site of an old Spanish fort. The Casa Rosada is notable for its statues, lavish decoration, and libraries. The Museo de la Casa de Gobierno in the basement is open to the public. On exhibit are memorabilia of past Argentine presidents. Open Thurs and Fri from 12:00–18:00 Monserrat

CAPITAL FEDERAL C Accommodation in Monserrat Hotels Crowne Plaza Panamericano, Carlos Pellegrini 525 ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$TUVXYZ Fax 43485250 @ 43485000 ***** Intercontinental Buenos Aires, Moreno 809 ACDEFGHJKLMNPRS$TUVXYZ Fax 43407199 @ 43407100 **** Castelar, Avenida de Mayo 1152 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43838388 @ 43835000 **** City, Bolívar 160 ACDEFGHJKLMPS$TUVXYZ @ 43426480 fax **** Nogaró, Diagonal J A Roca 562 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43316791 @ 43310091 *** Napoleon, Rivadavia 1364 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 43832031 @ 43832036 ** Astoria, Avenida de Mayo 916 AEFGJLPUV @ 43349061 ** Hispano, Avenida de Mayo 861 AEFGJLPSUV Fax 43315266 @ 43424431 ** Novel, Avenida de Mayo 915 AEFGJLPSUV @ 43450176 ** Nuevo Hotel Mundial, Avenida de Mayo 1298 AEFGJLPUV Fax 43836318 @ 43830011 * Avenida Petit, Avenida de Mayo 1347 AELPV @ 43817831 * Cevallos Palace, Virrey Cevallos 261 AELPV @ 43727636 * Chile, Avenida de Mayo 1297 AELPV @ 43837877 * Gran Vedra, Avenida de Mayo 1350 AELPV @ 43830584 * Turista, Avenida de Mayo 686 AELPV @ 43312281 * Marbella, Avenida de Mayo 1261 AELPV @ 43832338 * Solís Palace, Solís 352 AELPV @ 43717428 • Hotel Oxford, Chacabuco 713 @ 43628598 *****

Hospedajes A A A A A A

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Avenida, Avenida de Mayo 623 Gran España, Tacuari 80 La Argentina, Avenida de Mayo 860 Reina, Avenida de Mayo 1120 Roma, Avenida de Mayo 1413 Uruguay, Tacuari 83

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Council Chambers of the City of Buenos Aires and of the May Revolution), Bolívar 65. Located on the spot which was designated by Juan Garay in 1580 when Buenos Aires was founded for the second time. On exhibit are sketches of the evolution of the city, colonial furniture the Sala Capitular where in 1810 the first town council was sworn in. It was converted into a museum in 1940. It also contains memorabilia of the May 1810 revolution and of the British attack of 1806 and 1807. Open Tues–Fri 12:30–19:00 Sun 15:00–19:00. Small admission charge

Museo Histórico del Cabildo (History Museum of the Council Chambers), on the west side of the Plaza de Mayo. The town hall was first built in 1711, but has been added to and truncated several times since. It was restored to its original state in 1940, and declared a national monument. It is guarded by soldiers in the picturesque red and blue uniforms of the San Martín grenadiers; the changing of the guard takes place at 12:00 Museo Histórico Nacional del Cabildo de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires y de la Revolución de Mayo (National History Museum of the

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Museo de la Ciudad (City Museum), Alsina 412, 1st floor. This museum is located in a house built around 1894. Exhibits on the past and future of Buenos Aires. On the ground floor is a chemist shop still preserving the decor of the late 1800’s. Open Sun–Fri 11:00–19:00. Admission $1.00, Wednesdays free. Subte Línea “A” Plaza de Mayo station; Línea “D” Catedral station; Línea “E” Bolívar station Museo Etnográfico Juan B. Ambrosetti (Juan B. Ambrosetti Etnographic Museum), Moreno 350. The museum is organized into several sections: biology, anthropology, archeology, and ethnography. On exhibit are nearly 60 000 pieces, among them nearly 10 000 pieces of petrified anthropological items. The archeological section is particularly interesting with its exhibits of ceramics from the north-eastern part of Argentina; also amply represented is Patagonia. Attached to the museum is the Biblioteca Augusto Cortázar with titles on anthropology. Open Wed–Sun 14:30–18:30. Subte Línea “A”, Plaza de Mayo station and a short walk Museo Histórico del Traje (Costume History Museum), Chile 832. On exhibition are uniforms and costumes worn during the colonial era Basílica Menor de Nuestra Señora del Rosario and Convento de Santo Domingo, Ave. Belgrano block 300. During the 1806 British invasion a platoon of British troops were trapped in the church and subsequently surrrendered to the Spanish. On display are the captured British regimental flags. Here is also the mausoleum of the independence hero General Belgrano who designed the Argentine flag Museo Nacional del Grabado, Defensa 372. Some parts of the house were built around 1800 and played a

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role during the British invasion of 1806 Iglesia San Ignacio de Loyola (Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola), Bolívar 225 (near Calle Alsina), was founded by the Jesuits in 1710 and is one of the oldest colonial building in Buenos Aires. You can recognize it by its two high towers Basilica and Convento de San Francisco (Basilica and Convent of St. Francis), on the corner of Calles Alsina and Defensa, is controlled by the Franciscan order. It was inaugurated in 1754 and given a new façade in 1808 Iglesia y Convento de Santo Domingo or Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Rosario (Dominican Church and Convent), corner of Defensa and Avenida Belgrano, was founded in 1756. In 1806 the towers were damaged during a British attempt to seize Buenos Aires. The British commando surrendered, and its regimental colors are still preserved in the church Plaza del Congreso in front of the Congreso. Bounded by Rivadavia, Yrigoyen, Ceballos and Avenida Entre Ríos, it is one of the largest squares in the city. It has a waterfall and is floodlit in the evening. On the west side is the Monumento a los Dos Congresos Plaza de Mayo is the city’s oldest square and is surrounded by many public buildings. It was here on May 20, 1810 that a huge gathering rallied to support Argentina’s declaration of independence. The Pirámide de Mayo in the center of the plaza has been erected to mark the historic happings here in May 1810. On a more somber note are the Thursday vigils held by the mothers of victims of the “Dirty War” to bring to justice those responsible for the atrocities committed

Monserrat

CAPITAL FEDERAL

PALERMO

Palermo Maps #10 Recoleta and Palermo: page 61 • #11 Parque Palermo: page 63 •

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alermo is the largest barrio. About a quarter of it is taken up by Parque 3 de Febrero, commonly known as Parque Palermo. Palermo is bounded to the north by the Río de la Plata, to the east by Avenida Zabala, Avenida Cabildo and Avenida Dorrego, Avenida Córdoba in the south, and Avenida Díaz in the west. Palermo in Manuel de Rosas’ days was a marshy area and partially swamp, surrounded by lots of willow trees. Since the days of Rosas this is the preferred suburb for many consulates; it also possesses many museums. Inside Parque 3 de Febrero are the Hipódromo Argentino de Palermo (racetrack), Golf Club Lagos de Palermo, Jardín Zoológico (zoo), and the Jardín Botánico (botanic gardens). The Campo Argentino de Polo, on the corner of Avenida del Libertador and Dorrego, is the venue for the Campeonato Abierto Argentino de Polo. There are few hotels but many excellent eating places and tanguerías. In Paseo Salguero near Avenida del Libertador is a major shopping complex Paseo Alcorta. Palermo is served by Subte Línea “D”. Within Palermo are three districts which deserve special mention: Palermo Viejo (”Old Palermo”) Palermo Chico (”Little Palermo”), and Alto Palermo. Palermo Viejo is bounded by Avenidas Córdoba, Coronel Díaz, Mansilla, and Pueyrredón. It is a gracious but somewhat shabby old district, undergoing rapid gentrification. It is unique among the better-class residential districts of Capital Federal in that few buildings are more than two stories high. Palermo Chico, adjoining Recoleta, and bounded by Avenidas Figueroa Alcorta, Tagle, La Heras, and Scalabrini Ortiz, is a relatively tiny area of narrow winding streets packed with consulates and private homes of astonishing wealth — it is probably the best address in the Capital Federal.The barrio of Palermo is one of the most sought-after residencial areas in Buenos Aires.

Palermo

Alto Palermo lies between Avenidas Santa Fe, Mansilla, Pueyrredón, and Coronel Diaz.

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Apart Hotel Torre Cristoforo Colombo, Santa María de Oro 2747 ACDEFPU @ 47779633 fax 4775 9633 $B/C 2 Hotel Palermo, Avenida Santa Fe 4599 AEFGJLPSTUV @ 47735133 $F 2 Subte Línea "D" Estación Palermo Hotel Panamé, Godoy Cruz 2774 AEFGJLPSTUV @ 47714041 $F 2. Subte Línea "D" Estación Palermo

E Eating out Cafeterías • Café de la Paz, Avenida Presidente Quintana 595 • Round Point, Figueroa Alcorta 3009 • Café Tabac, Avenida del Libertador 2300 Restaurants • Angelo, Sinclair 3136 $Y. Credit cards. Italian cuisine • Dixie Diner, Avenida R. Obligado near G. Salguero; open Sun–Thurs

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BUENOS AIRES CITY 09:00–01:00 $X. Credit cards. American cuisine • La Casona de Tía Teresa, Avenida Las Heras 2843. International cuisine • La Catedra, Cerviño 4699. Parrilla • La Tranquera, F Alcorta 6464. Parrilla • La Zi Teresa di Napoli, Avenida Las Heras 2939. Italian cuisine • Le Trianon, Avenida del Libertador 1902. French cuisine • Lotus Neo Thai, Ortega y Gasset 1782 1st floor. Thai cuisine • Oviedo, Beruti 2602 $X. Credit cards. Spanish cuisine • Morizono Sushi Bar, Paraguay 3521. Credit cards. Japanese cuisine • Pizza Cero, Cerviño 3701. Pizzería • Río Rhin Norte, Tagle 2531. German cuisine • Vizzio, Billinghurst 2521 $X. Credit cards. Italian cuisine Restaurants with entertainment • Buenos Aires News, Paseo de la Infanta 17. Argentine cuisine; dancing • Caldero, Gorriti 3972. International cuisine; live music • Coyote, Ave. Casares. Mexican cuisine; dancing • El Beduino, Ave. R. Scalabrini Ortíz 1453. Armenian cuisine; live music • El Cerrojo del Juglar, Laprida 1173. International cuisine; fixed menu. Credit cards. Show • La Bodeguita de Buenos Aires, Gascón 1460 $X. Cuban atmosphere; live music; open Tues–Sun 20:00; dancing

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Museo Nacional de Aeronáutica (National Aviation Museum), Avenida Rafael Obligado 4550. Traces the beginnings and history of Argentine aviation. There are three exhibition rooms: Argentine, South American, and international aviation with scale models. Open Tues–Fri 08:30–16:30; Sun 11:00–19:00. Can be combined with a dining trip to the parrilla section of Avenida Rafael Obligado Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo (National Museum of Decorative Arts), Avenida del Libertador 1902. This was formerly the Palacio

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Errázuriz. Paintings, musical instruments, sculptures, and items made of silver are exhibited here. Renaissance, baroque, rococo and neo-classical exhibits. Open Wed–Mon 15:00–19:00; closed in January. Admission $3.00 Museo Nacional de Arte Oriental (National Museum of Oriental Art), Avenida del Libertador 1902. Upstairs in Palacio Errázuriz. China and India are well represented with art objects made of jade, quartz, and china. From Japan there are arms of the 7th century. Open daily 15:00–19:00. January closed. Admission $1.00 Museo de las Artes Plásticas Eduardo Sívori (Eduardo Sívori Fine Arts Museum), Avenida de la Infanta Isabel 555. On exhibit are his works, mainly scenes of the pampas. Open Tues–Fri from 11:00–17:00. Admission $1.00. From Subte Línea “C” General San Martín station take colectivo #10; from Subte Línea “B” Dorrego station take colectivo #34; from Subte Línea “D” Palermo station take colectivo #161 Museo de Motivos Populares Argentinos José Hernández (José Hernández Museum of Argentine Popular Motifs), Avenida del Libertador 2373. Gaucho collection which includes early farm implements and equestrian gaucho outfits. Also paintings and lithographs of the early colonial period and archeological and ethnographic items. The library contains 5000 volumes. Open Wed–Sun 13:00–19:00. Small admission charge, Wed free. Closed February. To get there by colectivo: ° From Subte Línea “A” Perú station #10, #59, and #67 ° From Subte Línea “B” Uruguay station #38 and #102 ° From Subte Línea “C” General San Martín station #10, and Retiro station #92 and #130 ° From Subte Línea “D” Callao station #37, Pueyrredón station #41 and #60, Scalabrini Ortiz station #110, and Bulnes station #128 Museo del Instituto Nacional Sanmartino (Museum of the National San Martín Institute), Mariscal

Palermo

CAPITAL FEDERAL

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Ramón L Castilla near Avenida R M de Aguado. This is a replica of the house in Grand Bourg, France where General San Martín, “The Liberator”, spent his last years in exile. Inside are documents, pictures and reproductions of documents signed by the great general. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–12:00 and 14:00–17:00, Sat and Sun 14:00–17:00 Museo Planetario Municipal Galileo Galilei (Galileo Galilei Planetary Museum), Avenida Belisario Roldán near Sarmiento in Parque Palermo. On exhibit are old watches, early theodolites, and models of the stars of our solar system. Open Sat and Sun 15:00–20:30. Admission $4.00 Parque Tres de Febrero, popularly known as the Parque Palermo (Palermo Park), features magnificent avenues. It is renowned for its rose gardens, Andalusian patios, and Japanese garden. The Palermo race course, called the Hipódromo Argentino, is also here. Opposite the park are the botanical gardens and the zoo. In the park are the municipal golf club, Buenos Aires lawn tennis club, riding clubs, a polo field, and some popular athletic and fencing clubs. The planetarium, near the park exit, is open Sat and Sun only; from March to November there are shows at 16:30, 18:00, and 19:30, and from

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December to February at 18:00, 19:30, and 21:00; small admission fee Museo Nacional del Jardín Botánico (National Botanical Garden Museum), Las Heras 4102 and Malabia 2690. Part of the botanical garden inside Parque Palermo. Contains a most complete section on Argentine flora. Also samples of indigenous food plants in the herbarium. Open Mon–Fri 07:00–16:00 Jardín Botánico Municipal (Municipal Botanical Gardens), Santa Fe 2951. Enter from Plaza Italia (Subte Línea “D” from Palermo station). Contains specimens from all over the world. Trees native to Argentina form one section of the gardens, which are also full of well-fed stray cats The Jardín Zoológico (Zoo) is next to the botanical gardens and it’s worth seeing. The enclosures for animals like the Patagonian mara (a short-eared hare) are designed to allow them to roam freely Jardín Japonés, Avenida Casares near Avenida Berro, Palermo is inside Parque Palermo. Frequent exhibitions and Japanese cultural events are held here against the backdrop of Japanese garden culture Show grounds, next to the Parque Palermo, where the Argentine rural society holds livestock and agriculture exhibitions each July

PUERTO MADERO

Puerto Madero Maps • #3 San Telmo and Puerto Madero: page 47 • #5 San Nicolás and Puerto Madero: page 51

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uerto Madero is the dock area of Buenos Aires. Neverthless, because of its proximity to the town center many fashionable restaurants have opened there; many of them have also tango shows, dancing, and entertainment. A large part of the barrio is taken up by the Parque Natural y Zona de Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur, a wildlife reserve. From the earliest colonial times this was the port area of Buenos Aires. In 1855 the first modern port constructions began. Nowadays a Puerto Madero

restructuring of the area has begun which will convert Puerto Madero into a model barrio with housing estates, shopping centers, and 92

BUENOS AIRES CITY p Sightseeing

first-class eating places. At the moment there are more than 30 good restaurants, most of them along Avenida Alicia Moreau de Justo.

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E Eating out Restaurants • Agua Dulce, Ing. Huergo 400. Seafood • Bahía Madero, Ave. Alicia M. de Justo 430 • Bice, Ave. Alicia M. de Justo 192 • Cabañas La Lilas, Ave. Alicia M. de Justo 516 • Columbus, Ave. Alicia M. de Justo 292. Argentine cuisine; live music • Dique Cuatro, Ave. Alicia M. de Justo 176. International cuisine; live music • Dominguín, Ave. Alicia M. de Justo 1130. Spanish cuisine; live music • El Mirasol del Puerto, Ave. Alicia M. de Justo 202. Parrilla; live music • Hereford, Ave. Alicia M. de Justo 1140. Parrilla; live music • La Parolaccia de Mare, Ave. Alicia M. de Justo. Seafood • Puerto Sorrento, Ave. Alicia M. de Justo 410

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Buque Museo Fragata Presidente Sarmiento, Puerto Madero Dique No 3; best access from Presidente Perón. It was used as a naval training ship before it was made into a museum. Open daily 09:00–21:00. Admission $2.00 Buque Museo Corbeta A.R.A. Uruguay, Puerto Madero Dique No 4; best access from Garay. During 1877–1880 this sailing ship participated in naval engagements during the civil wars. It was also used as a training ship for cadets. Open daily 09:00–21:00; admission $1.00 Museo de Telecomunicaciones (Telecommunications Museum), Avenida de los Italianos 851; best access from Belgrano via Villaflor. Open Fri–Sun from 15:00–18:00; admission free Parque Natural y Zona de Reserva Ecolólogica Zona Sur, Ave. Tristán Achával Rodríguez 1550. Surrounded on three sides by the Río de la Plata. This wildlife and nature reserve is within walking distance of the downtown area and the city’s skyline forms its backdrop. Open daily 08:00–18:00

RECOLETA

Recoleta Maps • #8 Balnavera and Recoleta: page 57 • #9 Recoleta: page 59 • #10 Recoleta and Palermo: page 61

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ecoleta is a central northern district. The district was once part of the Franciscan Recoleta Convent, hence its name. This has become one of the most elegant inner suburbs of Buenos Aires, with many fashionable restaurants near the Recoleta Cemetery, the hub of the district. The main attraction is the Recoleta Cemetery, a bizarre necropolis where the rich built themselves burial places often from Carrara marble. The tomb of Evita Perón has almost become a national shrine; ask the attendant for directions. Alongside the cemetery is the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Pilar, a monumento nacional. Recoleta is also dotted with first-class hotels and is the preferred location for many embassies and consulates. Patio Bullrich is a major

shopping complex on Avenida del Libertador 750. Major plazas are Plaza Alvear next to Recoleta cemetery, Plaza Naciones Unidas, Plaza 93

Recoleta

CAPITAL FEDERAL J.J. Urquiza with the Museo de Bellas & • Artes, Plaza República de Uruguay, • and Plaza Intendente Alvear where on weekends and holidays an artists • open-air show is held.

Fellini, Paraná 1209 $X. Credit cards. Italian cuisine; live music, Foro Ghandi, Avenida Corrientes 1551. Tanguería Harper’s, Junín 1763 $X. Specialty is seafood, New York atmosphere, daily 12:00–16:00 and 20:00–02:00. InE Eating out ternational cuisine Henry J. Bean’s Bar and Grill, Junín • Restaurants with entertainment 1749. US cuisine; dancing • Café Rix, Paseo del Pilar/ Ave. Hippopotamus, Junín 1787. Credit • Pueyrredón 2501. Local cuisine. Encards. All ages; French cuisine; fortertainment mal; tanguería • Café Victoria, R.M. Ortiz 1865. InterHard Rock Café, Paseo del Pilar/Ave. • national cuisine Pueyrredón 2502. US cuisine; danc• Clásica y Moderna, Avenida Callao ing 892. Bar • Shampoo, Avenida Quintana 362. Restaurants Cabaret • Au Bec Fin, Vicente López 1825. • Contramano, Rodríguez Peña 1082. French cuisine Gay disco • Mora X, Vicente López 2152. French • Africa, Avenida Alvear 1885. Disco; cuisine floor shows & • Caruso, Avenida Pueyrredón 2501 & • Champs Elysées, Avenida $X. Credit cards. Italian cuisine Pueyrredón 2501 Paseo del Pilar $Y. • Cereus, Junín 1155 $X. Credit cards. Credit cards. Open daily 09:00–03:00. International cuisine Entertainment • Clark’s, Junín 1777. International cuisine

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Etoile, R.M. Ortiz 1835

ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 48045275

Caesar Park Buenos Aires, Posadas 1232 ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$TUVXYZ Fax 48191147 @ 48191100 Alvear Palace, Avenida Alvear 1891 ACDEFGHJKLMNPRS$TUVXYZ Fax 48040034 @ 48082100 Park Hyatt Buenos Aires, Posadas 1086 ACDEFGHJKLMNPRS$TUVXYZ Fax 43263032 @ 43261234 Presidente, Cerrito 846 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 48165985 @ 48162222 Plaza Francia, Pasaje Schiaffino 2189 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 48049631 Wilton Palace, Callao 1162 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 48129988 Ayacucho Palace, Ayacucho 1408 AEFGJLPUV @ 48060611 Guido Palace, Guido 1778 AEFGJLPUV @ 48120341 Alfa, Riobamba 1046 AELPV @ 48122889 El Castillo, M.T. de Alvear 1893 AELPV @ 48132046 Prince, Arenales 1627 AELPV @ 48118004 Rich, Bulnes 1247 AELPV @ 49634963

Hospedajes

A Versalles, Arenales 1394 B Lion D’Or, Pacheco de Melo 2019

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Club Sirio Libanés, Pacheco del Melo 1900 $Y.Credit cards. Open Mon–Sat. Lebanese cuisine El Sanjuanino, Posadas 1515. Parrilla Esqueles, Maipú 967 $Y. Credit cards. Open Mon–Sun 11:00–24:00. Chinese cuisine French Bistro, French 2301 $Y. Credit cards. Open daily 08:00–02:00. French cuisine Guadalest, Avenida Santa Fe. Spanish cuisine Jan Toki, Posadas 1029. Basque cuisine José Luis, Ave. Quintana 456. Seafood; Spanish cuisine La Esquina de las Flores, Montevideo 811 $Z. Vegetarian La Gomería, Vicente López 2134. Pizzería La Porcherie, Montevideo 966. French cuisine La Rueda, Avenida Presidente Quintana 456. Parrilla La Tasca de Germán, R.M. Ortiz 1863. Spanish cuisine La Tasca de Plaza Mayor, Posadas 1052. Seafood; Spanish cuisine Lola, R.M.Ortiz 1805. French cuisine Los Inmortales, Avenida Callao 1165. Pizzería Midori, Hotel Caesar Park, Posadas 1232 $X. Japanese cuisine Munich del Pilar, Avenida Pueyrredón 2501 $Z. Credit cards. Open Mon–Sun. International cuisine Munich Recoleta, R.M. Ortiz 1871 $X. International cuisine Pizza Banana, Ayacucho 1425. Pizzería Pizza Cero, Schiaffino 2009. Pizzería Rix Café, Avenida Pueyrredón 2501 Paseo del Pilar. American cuisine Rodi, Vicente López 1900. International cuisine Romanaccio, Avenida Callao 1021. Italian cuisine Sahara Continent, Junín 1735. International cuisine; dancing Teatriz, Riobamba 1220 $Y. Credit cards. International cuisine

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Biblioteca Nacional (National Library), Agüero 2510. The library was founded in 1810. For many years it was in Calle Mexico and only moved in 1992 to its present location in a very modern building overlooking Plaza Ruben Dario. It has a collection of about 500 000 volumes and 12 000 manuscripts, including publications of the Jesuit missions, many in the Guaraní language. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–21:00 Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (National Fine Arts Museum), Avenida Libertador 1473. There are over 300 works on view, including a collection of Argentine painters of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, as well as paintings by Van Gogh, Picasso, Manet, Monet, and Renoir. Open Tues–Sun 13:30–19:30. Small admission charge Museo Roca e Investigaciones Historicas (Roca Museum and Historical Research), Vicente López 2220. The house is a national trust property. Exhibitions are dedicated to the memory of Lieutenant General Julio Argentino Roca and the period of the 1880. On exhibit are the general’s letters, photographs and documents relating to the Conquista del Desierto (Desert Campaign). Was closed for some time — call @ 48032798 for opening hours Iglesia Nuestra Señora del Pilar (Church of the Pillar), built in a delightful garden setting on Calle Junín 1904, is a jewel of colonial architecture dating from 1717. In the side chapel to the left is the image of San Pedro de Alcántara Centro Cultural Recoleta, Junín 1930. Once part of the Franciscan monastery. It houses the small Museo Participativo de Ciencias (Museum of Participating Sciences). Open Mon–Fri 09:00–16:00, weekends 15:00–19:00. Admission $5.00

Recoleta

CAPITAL FEDERAL

Retiro Map #7 Retiro: page 55

RETIRO

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his is a center-north barrio, and because of the major railroad station and bus terminal located here it is the main gateway to the provinces. It is bounded by Montevideo, Uruguay, and Avenida Córdoba. Major hotels, nice restaurants, and cafés abound here. Tourist information kiosks are in Florida. Avenida del Libertador, a show-piece road, starts on Plaza Libertador General San Martín near Estación Retiro. This splendid Avenida runs at first parallel to the railroad line gradually giving way to open space and parks on the north side as it passes first through Recoleta and then through Palermo. From Avenida del Libertador the open space formed by Cerrito, 9 de Julio, and Carlos Pellegrini begins, and goes right through to Plaza Constitución. Plaza Libertador General San Martín is the main Plaza with a large statue of the Liberator. The main shopping street is Calle Florida, which goes right through to Rivadavia in Monserrat; it is for the full length a pedestrian mall. Retiro station, on Plaza Fuerza Aéra Argentina on the corner of Torre de Los Ingleses, is the main railroad station for Buenos Aires. From this station depart passenger train services to Tucumán and Santiago del Estero, and also commuter trains to the outer suburbs. Within walking distance from Retiro station is the Estación Terminal de Omnibus. From here buses go to all provinces in Argentina and neighboring countries. Subte Línea “C” has its starting point opposite Retiro station, to which it is linked by underground passageways.

Retiro

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Restaurants • Bárbaro, Tres Sargentos 415. International cuisine; bar; cosmopolitan atmosphere • Bengal, Arenales 837 $Y. International cuisine • Blue Oyster, M.T. de Alvear 399 $X. Seafood; Spanish cuisine • Cantina Asia, Esmeralda 768. Chinese cuisine • Catalinas, Reconquista 875 $X. Credit cards. French cuisine • Chung King, Paraguay 725 (near Maipú). Chinese cuisine • Dolli, Avenida del Libertador 312. International cuisine • Dora, Avenida L.N. Alem 1016, Spanish cuisine • Downtown Matías, San Martín 979. English cuisine; lunch only • El Figón de Bonilla, Avenida L.N. Alem 673 $X. Credit cards. Spanish cuisine • El Quebracho, Avenida Córdoba 823. Parrilla • El Salmón II, Reconquista 1014. Seafood • Filo, San Martín 975 $Y. Credit cards. Open daily 12:00–24:0. Italian cuisine; bar; entertainment • Florida Garden, Florida 899. Cafetería • Friday’s, San Martín 961. French cuisine • Frontera 34, Esmeralda 943. Mexican cuisine • La Chacra, Córdoba 941 $X. Open Mon–Sun. Credit cards. Parrilla • La Churrasquita, Corrientes 1220. Parrilla • Las Nazarenas, Reconquista 1132 $X. Credit cards. Parrilla

BUENOS AIRES CITY C Accommodation in Retiro Apart hotels ***

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Marriott Plaza, Florida 1005 ACDEFGHJKLMNPRS$TUVXYZ Fax 43183008 @ 43183000 Sheraton Buenos Aires, San Martín 1225 ACDEFGHJKLMNPRS$TUVXYZ Fax 43189346 @ 43189000 Aspen Towers, Paraguay 857 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43132662 @ 43131919 Bisonte, Paraguay 1207 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 48165775 @ 48165770 Carlton, Libertad 1180 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 48120081fax Crillon, Avenida Santa Fe 796 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43129955 @ 43128181 De las Américas, Libertad 1020 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 48160418 @ 48163432 El Conquistador, Suipacha 948 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43283252 @ 43283012 Gran Buenos Aires, M.T. de Alvear 767 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43152243 @ 43123003 Gran Dorá, Maipú 963 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43138134 @ 43127391 Lancaster, Córdoba 405 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVY Fax 43124068 @ 43124061 Principado, Paraguay 481 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43133952 @ 43133022 Regente Palace, Suipacha 964 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43287460 @ 43286800 Sheltown, M.T. de Alvear 742 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43126520 @ 43125070 Embajador, Carlos Pellegrini 1181 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 43265311 @ 43265303 Gran Orly, Paraguay 474 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 43125344 Promenade, M.T. de Alvear 444 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 43125681 Waldorf, Paraguay 450 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 43122071 San Antonio, Paraguay 372 AEFGJLPSUV @ 43125381 Tres Sargentos, Tres Sargentos 345 AEFGJLPUV @ 43126081 Central Córdoba, San Martín 1021 AELPV @ 43128524

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• Lois, Paraguay 487 across from Hotel Orly. International cuisine • Los Chilenos, Suipacha 1024. Seafood Los Inmortales, M.T. de Alvear 1256. Pizzería & • Los Inmortales, M. T. de Alvear 1256. • Italian cuisine Renata, Avenida Santa Fe 975 $X. Credit cards. Vegetarian

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Tasca Tancat, Paraguay 645. Credit cards. Spanish cuisine The Alexandra, San Martín 774. Credit cards. English cuisine Yapeyú, Maipú 383. Credit cards. Parrilla Yin Yang, Paraguay 868. Lunch only; closed Sun. Vegetarian cuisine

Retiro

CAPITAL FEDERAL p Sightseeing

Restaurants with entertainment • Armenonville, Ave. Alvear 1879. Tanguería and shows; dinner and show $95.00 • Caño 14, Talcahuano 975. Tanguería, floor shows, and dancing • D. Gala, Paraguay 459. Italian cuisine; live music • Druid Inn, Reconquista 1040. Irish cuisine; live music • El Aljibe, San Martín 1225. Argentine cuisine; live music & • Hostería del Caballito Blanco, M.T. de Alvear 479. Hungarian cuisine, shows on Saturdays; admission $35.00 & • Karim Club, Pellegrini 1143. Cabaret, floor shows, dancing • King’s Club, Córdoba 937. Cabaret, dancing and strip shows • La Mosca Blanca, Avenida Ramos Mejía 1430 opposite Hotel Sheraton $X. Open daily 12:00–16:00 and 19:00–24:00. Parrilla and international cuisine; dancing & • Piola, Libertad 1078 12:00–24:00 $Y. Credit cards. Italian cuisine; music

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Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano “Isaac Fernández Blanco” (Isaac Fernández Blanco Museum of Spanish-American Art), Suipacha 1422. Large collection of colonial art, including some very fine silverware from Alto Peru and paintings of the Cuzco school. Also a large library on the subject. Open Tues–Sun 15:00–20:00. Closed in January. Admission $1.00; Thursdays free. Subte Línea “C”, Retiro station Museo de Armas (Weapons Museum), Santa Fe 750. Located in the Palacio Paz. On display are weapons from the 12th to the 18th century. The museum has rooms dedicated to General San Martín and also to the Desert campaign. Interesting. Open Tues–Fri 14:00–19:30, also Sat Sun; small admission Museo Nacional Ferroviario, Ave. Del Libertador 405. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–16:00. Admission free Plaza de la Fuerza Aérea, formerly Plaza Británica, in front of Retiro station, features a clocktower modeled on the tower of Westminster presented by the British community Plaza San Martín contains, not surprisingly, a monument to San Martín in the center

SAN NICOLÁS

San Nicolás Maps • #5 San Nicolás and Retiro: page 51 • #6 Balvanera, Monserrat, and San Nicolás: page 53 • #7 Retiro: page 55

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ogether with Monserrat, this barrio is the heart of the tourist district. It has the largest concentration of hotels, restaurants, banks, cinemas, theaters, and tour operators. The main thoroughfare is Avenida 9 de Julio which intersects with Avenidas Santa Fe, Córdoba, Rivadavia, and San Juan. It is the commercial and administrative center of Argentina. On the Cerrito side of Avenida 9 de Julio is Teatro Colón, the South American equivalent of La Scala in Milan. Calle Florida and Calle Lavalle are pedestrian malls which also intersect. In or near Lavalle is the focal

San Nicolás

point of night life in Buenos Aires with many cinemas and cafés. At the northern end of Calle Florida is 98

BUENOS AIRES CITY • Galerías Pacífico, a large shopping complex, and at the extreme ends of & • Florida are tourist information kiosks. The many bars and cafés on • Avenida Corrientes (between Cerrito and Callao) are a popular • meeting place for the city’s bohemians and intellectuals. The whiskerías • and cervecerías serve coffee and alcoholic drinks. • • On Plaza de Mayo is the Catedral Metropolitana with the • tomb of General José de San Martín, the Casa de Gobierno or “Casa • Rosada” (Pink House), and the colo• nial Cabildo from the mid-18th century. On Plaza del Congreso is the • Palacio del Congreso , the legislative assembly. • San Nicolás and Monserrat are served by all five Subte lines, and • buses radiate to all outer suburbs. •

E Eating out

• Restaurants • ABC, Lavalle 545; Open Mon–Fri $X. & • German cuisine • Arturito, Corrientes 1124. Credit • cards. International cuisine • Blab, Florida 325. Credit cards. Inter• national cuisine & • Brizzi, Reconquista 536 $Y. Credit cards. International cuisine • • Cabaña Las Lilas, Avenida Dávila 516 • Cámara de las Sociedades Anónimas, & • Florida 1, 3rd floor. International cuisine • Casa China, Viamonte 1476. Chinese • cuisine • Casa de Corea, Perón 2489 $Y. Korean • cuisine • Chiquilín, Montevideo near Sarmiento, Complejo La Plaza. Inter• national cuisine • Chino, Suipacha 477. Chinese cuisine • • Chiquín, Perón 920. Credit cards. Spanish cuisine; entertainment & • • Cicerón, Reconquista 647, 1st floor. International cuisine • Clark’s II, Sarmiento 645. Credit • cards. International cuisine

99

Confitería Ideal, Suipacha 381. Café; live music; tango instructions De La Cascada, Suipacha 964 $X. Credit cards. International cuisine Edelweiss, Libertad 431 $X. Credit cards. Open Mon–Sun. German cuisine El Ciervo, Corrientes near Callao. German cuisine El Jardín, Suipacha 429 near Corrientes. Vegetarian cuisine El Mundo, Maipú 550. Seafood El Palacio de la Papa Frita, Lavalle 735. Credit cards. Parrilla El Palacio de la Papa Frita, Lavalle 954. Credit cards. Parrilla El Pulpo, Tucumán 400. Spanish cuisine El Recodo, Lavalle 130. Credit cards. International cuisine El Toboso, Avenida Corrientes 1838. International cuisine Grannix, Florida 126. Open for lunch Mon–Fri. Vegetarian cuisine Guerrín, Avenida Corrientes 1368. Pizzería Hotel Claridge, Tucumán 535. International cuisine La Barra, Avenida Córdoba 484. Cafetería La Caballeriza, Avenida Dávila 580 Puerto Madero. Parrilla La Casa de Estebán de Luca, Defensa 1000. Bar La Casa de Luis Cardel, Avenida Corrientes 1660. Tango shows Fri/Sat 23:00 $24.00 La Casona del Nonno, Lavalle 827. Italian cuisine La Estancia, Lavalle 941 $X. Credit cards. Open Mon–Sun. Parrilla; dancing La Paz, Corrientes 1599. Open very late. Café La Pérgola, Hotel Libertador, Avenida Córdoba near Maipú, 3rd floor. German and French cuisine La Robla, Viamonte 1615. Spanish cuisine La Rural, Suipacha 453. Open Sundays. Parrilla La Veda, Florida 1 downstairs $55.00. International cuisine, Tues–Sat tango shows $55.00 Liberarte, Avenida Corrientes 1555. Thurs 22:30. Admission $5.00

San Nicolás

CAPITAL FEDERAL C Accommodation in San Nicolás ***** ***** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** * *

ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$TUVXYZ @ 4314700 ACDEFGHJKLMNPRS$TUVXYZ @ 43228395 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 43820061 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 43223801 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 43223333 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 43203500 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 43252770 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 43934052 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 43126361 fax Lafayette, Reconquista 546 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 3939486 @ 43939081 Regidor, Tucumán 451 ADEFGHJKLMNPS$TUV @/fax 43149516 República, Cerrito 370 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43824008 @ 43825058 Rochester, Esmeralda 542 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43224689 @ 43261805 Salles, Cerrito 208 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43820754 @ 43820090 Savoy, Callao 181 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Fax 43727066 @ 43725972 Camino Real, Maipú 572 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 43223162 Cardton, Perón 1555 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 43822463 Columbia Palace, Corrientes 1533 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 43725795 Esmeralda Palace, Esmeralda 527 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 43934620 @ 43934609 Gran Argentino, Carlos Pellegrini 37 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 3453070 @ 43453078 Gran Eibar, Florida 330 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 43250969 @ 43254842 Gran Hotel San Carlos, Suipacha 39 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 43451022 Liberty, Corrientes 628 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 43250260 Normandie, Rodríguez Peña 320 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 43717001 Regis, Lavalle 813 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 43272618 @ 43272605 Concorde, 25 de Mayo 630 AEFGJLPSUV @ 43132018 Gran Hotel de la Paix, Rivadavia 1115 AEFGJLPUV @ 43837140 King’s, Corrientes 623 AEFGJLPSUV Fax 43934012 @ 43228161 Plaza Roma, Lavalle 110 AEFGJLPSUV @ 43111679 Tucumán Palace, Tucumán 384 AEFGJLPSUV @ 43121162 Du Helder, Rivadavia 857 AELPV @ 43453644 El Cabildo, Lavalle 748 AELPV @ 43226695 Claridge, Tucumán 535 Fax 43148022 Libertador Kempinski, Córdoba 680 Fax 43229703 Bristol, Cerrito 286 Fax 43823284 Carsson, Viamonte 650 Fax 43223801 Continental, Roque Sáenz Peña 725 Fax 43221421 Gran Colón, Pellegrini 507 Fax 43203507 Grand Hotel, Tucumán 570 Fax 43266036 Gran King, Lavalle 560 Fax 43934012 Italia Romanelli, Reconquista 647

San Nicolás

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BUENOS AIRES CITY Accommodation in San Nicolás — continued * * * * *

Maipú, Maipú 735 Majestic, Libertad 121 Milán, Montevideo 337 Petit Goya, Suipacha 748 Phoenix, San Martín 780

Hospedajes A A A A B B B

Europa, Mitre 1294 Orense, Mitre 1359 Pirámides, Perón 1473 Suipacha Palace, Suipacha 18 Mediterráneo, Rodríguez Peña 149 O’Rei, Lavalle 733 Sportman, Avenida Rivadavia 1425

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Youth Hostels

@ 43220994 • V & S Youth Hostel Backpackers, Viamonte 887 ABL Email: [email protected]; Subte Línea C, Lavalle station

•

• •

Los Inmortales, Lavalle 746. Pizzería Los Teatros de Buenos Aires, Talcahuano 345. Italian cuisine. Tanguería • Maison Dorée, Viamonte 458. Cabaret, strip show • Memorabilia, Maipú 761. Tanguería • Manantial, Montevideo 556. Vegetarian; closed Sun • Nueva Era, Maipú 650, 1st floor. Vegetarian cuisine • Nuevo Salón La Argentina, B. Mitre 1759, Fri, Sat and Sun from 21:00–03:00. Tanguería; dancing • Nicole de Marseille, Defensa 714. French cuisine • Oriente, Maipú 512. Chinese cuisine & • Pippo’s, Paraná 356. Parrilla, pasta and meat dishes • Pizza Hut, Lavalle 870. Pizzería • Pizzería Roma, Lavalle 888. Italian cuisine Fast food • Lecherísima, Avenida Corrientes 839. • McDonald, Lavalle 964 • Pumpernic, Suipacha 530 • Pumpernic, Avenida Corrientes 774. • Pumpernic, Florida 356 • Richmond, Florida 468 between Lavalle and Corrientes. Chess tournaments in downstairs lounge. Café • Rocinante, Pellegrini 715. International cuisine • The London Grill, Reconquista 455. English cuisine

Young Man’s Bar, Avenida Córdoba 800. Bar

n Entertainment

•

Palacio de Gobierno de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires, Bolívar 1. On Sundays free tango concerts beginning at 18:00 in the Salón Dorado

p Sightseeing

•

•

•

101

Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Merced (Our Lady of Mercy Church), at Reconquista 207 corner of Perón, was founded in 1604 and rebuilt in 1732. The wooden figure of Christ was carved by an Indian in Misiones Province during the eighteenth century Bolsa de Comercio (Stock Exchange), built in 1916, is a handsome building in Calle 25 de Mayo 359, on the corner of Sarmiento. It contains the stock exchange and grain and produce markets Catedral Metropolitana, Rivadavia 437, on the north side of Plaza de Mayo, flanked by the former residence of the archbishop. It occupies the site of the first church in Buenos Aires. Reconstruction of the cathedral began in 1677; it collapsed in 1753, and the rebuilding was not comp l e t e d u n t i l 1 8 2 3 . T h e e i g hteenth-century towers were never completed. The imposing tomb of General José de San Martín, known as

San Nicolás

CAPITAL FEDERAL

•

•

•

•

•

•

the Liberator, is within the cathedral also; it was built in 1878.The changing of the guard is Mon–Fri at 09:00, 11:00, 13:00, 15:00 and 17:00; fewer on Saturdays Centro Cultural General San Martín, Sarmiento 1551. In this building is the Teatro General San Martín and the Dirección General de Turismo del Gobierno de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires Museo de Arte Moderno (Museum of Modern Art), Ave. Corrientes 1530, 7th floor. This is a sub-branch of the main museum in Ave. San Juan, in San Telmo. Here is a library specializing in contemporary plastic arts. Open Tues–Sun 12:00–20:00. Admission $1.00. Subte Línea “B”, Uruguay station. Closed in January Museo de Arte Lirico e Instrumentos Musicales del Teatro Colón (Museum of the Colón Theater), Tucumán 1161. It traces the history of the Teatro Colón. There are two sections, the instrument section and the wardrobe section of costumes worn in early century performances. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–16:00 Museo Histórico y Numismatico del Banco de la Nación Argentina (Historic and Numismatic Museum of the Banco de la Nación Argentina), San Martin 275 1st floor in the bank’s head office. It traces the origins of Argentina’s economic development. On exhibit are share certificates from the 1800s, coins and banknotes, and early models of safes. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–15:00 Museo Numismatico “Arturo Jauretche”(Arturo Jauretche Coin Museum), Sarmiento 362. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–18:00 and Sun 14:00–18:00

San Nicolás

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102

Museo Nacional Mitre (National Mitre Museum), San Martín 336. This was the residence of President Bartolomé Mitre, now a national trust property. Dedicated to the memory of Bartolomé Mitre, soldier and statesman during a turbulent period in Argentina’s history. On exhibit are the original furniture, documents, and pictures. Open Mon–Fri 13:30–18:30. Admission $1.00. Closed January Plaza de la República has a 67-meter obelisk (”El Obelisco”) at the junction of Diagonal Norte and the Avenida Corrientes Plaza General Lavalle has second-hand book stalls at the Calle Lavalle end Teatro Colón: One of the world’s great opera houses overlooks Avenida 9 de Julio. The main entrance is on Libertad, between Tucumán and Viamonte. The Colón’s interior is resplendent with red plush and gilt, and its vast stage is almost a block wide. The various salons, dressing-rooms, and banquet halls are all sumptuously decorated. Free guided tours run every day at half-hour intervals, but book in advance @ 4355414, 4355415, and 4355416. The theater is closed Jan–Feb. Formal wear is expected at gala performances. Tickets are available three days before performances on the Calle Tucumán side of the theater. It was opened in 1908 Teatro Cervantes, Libertad 815. Guided tours Wed, Thurs, and Fri at 14:00. Admission $4.00. Closed December, January and February Teatro Presidente Alvear, Corrientes 1659 @ 43746076. Tango concerts every Thursday at 13:00

BUENOS AIRES CITY

SAN TELMO

San Telmo Maps #2 San Telmo: page 44 • #3 San Telmo and Puerto Madero: page 47 •

S

an Telmo is the entertainment and bohemian quarter of Buenos Aires. But it also has many museums and attractive parks and a few hotels. There are many tanguerías and Italian-style restaurants, most of them with entertainment. •

In 1806 San Telmo was at the pinnacle of the resistance movement against the British invasion. The heart of San Telmo is Plaza Dorrego with its Sunday flea market. San Telmo is close to the hydrofoils to Uruguay on Pedro de Mendoza. There are still a few late colonial buildings and Rosista buildings (that is, built during the office of Presidente Rosas). The area is centered around Calle Independencia, along the slope which leads down to the old beach of the Río de la Plata. It is an established artistic center and a charming area with plenty of cafés and tanguerías.

E •

El Repecho de San Telmo, Carlos Calvo 242. Credit cards. International cuisine • Hostal del Canigo, Chacabuco 863. International cuisine • La Crevette, San Juan 639 (in the tennis club rooms). Credit cards. Seafood; French cuisine Eating out and entertainment Bands usually start playing at about 23:30. Most places open Fri, Sat, and Sun, and have a cover charge. • A Media Luz, Chile 316. Tanguería Tues–Sat 22:30. Admission $25.00 • Acapulco Mío, Defensa 740. Italian cuisine; show • Bar Sur, Estados Unidos 299. Italian cuisine. Tanguería, shows, and dancing; Mon–Sun 19:00–04:00. Admission $15.00 • Calle de Ángeles, Chile 318. ArgenEating out tine cuisine; live music Antigua Tasca de San Fermín, Carlos & • Caminito, Balcarce 759. Continuous Calvo 319. Spanish cuisine tango shows daily 22:30–04:00, $15.00 • El Goce Pagano, Piedras 375. Argentine cuisine; dancing

C Accommodation in San Telmo ****

Los Dos Chinos, Brazil 780 Fax 43005807

Hospedajes

B Victoria, Chacabuco 726 B Carly, Humberto I 464

ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 43002020 @ @

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43612135 43617710

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Youth hostels

• Albergue Juvenil, Brasil 675 AFILV @ 43009321 $J 1 Fax 43073014; e-mail: [email protected]; Web site: www.hostelling-aaaj.org.ar; 90 beds; Subte Línea C, Estación Constitución railroad station; YHA members only • El Hostal de San Telmo, Carlos Calvo 614 ABIL @ 43006899 $J 1 Fax 43009028; e-mail: [email protected]; e-mail messages received and sent; shared bathrooms. Subte Línea “C”, San Juan or Independencia stations

103

San Telmo

CAPITAL FEDERAL • & • • • • & • • • •

El Viejo Almacén, Balcarce 799. Shows 22:00, $40.00–$60.00. Tanguería; dancing La Convención, Carlos Calvo 375 $X. Credit cards. Tango shows; French cuisine La Cumparsita,Chile 302. Tango and shows 22:30– 04:00. Admission $30.00 Los Dos Pianitos, J M Giuffra 305. Tanguería. Tango shows, dancing, informal Molière Café, Chile 299. Argentine cuisine; dancing Pilote 8, Avenida Dávila 850 Puerto Madero $X. Credit cards. International cuisine; live shows Taconeango, Balcarce 725. Tanguería, shows, dancing. Admission $20.00 Unión Bar, Balcarce 807. Tanguería Viejos Tiempos, Balcarce 989. Tanguería

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•

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S Buses

From the downtown area there are many bus services. The best place to catch a bus to San Telmo is at L.N. Alem station of Línea “B” near the central post office. Colectivos #4, #20, #22,# 28, #33, #54, #61, #62,#74, #93, #126, #130, #143, #152, #159 set down in the area bounded by Avenidas Ing. Huergo, Brasil, Perú, and Belgrano.

•

p Sightseeing •

Museo Histórico Nacional (National History Museum), Defensa 1600 in Parque Lezama. The rooms are divided into periods of Argentine history: discovery, conquest, Jesuit missions, the colonial era, the wars of independence, and national heroes.

San Telmo

104

The memorabilia of San Martín include some of his furniture from his house-in-exile in Boulogne sur Mer in France. Open Tues–Fri and Sun 15:00–19:00; closed January, February Museo de Telecomunicaciones (Telecommunications Museum), Avenida de los Italianos 851. On exhibit are milestones in technical advancement. Belongs to the Empresa Telecom Argentina. Open Fri–Sun 14:00–18:00; closed December 16– January 31 Museo de Arte Moderno (Modern Art Museum), Avenida San Juan 350 (a section of this museum is at Corrientes 1530). The building was previously a tobacco warehouse. On display are paintings by Utrillo, Matisse, Dali, Picasso, and Renoir. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–20:00 and weekends 12:00–20:00 Parque Lezama, corner of Calles Defensa and Brazil. Once one of the most beautiful in the city, this park is now somewhat run-down. It has an imposing statue of Pedro de Mendoza, the founder of the original city in 1535. Tradition has it that the first founding took place on this very spot Feria de San Telmo. Held Sundays 10:00 to 17:00 on Plaza Dorrego, located on HumbertoI and Defensa. This is a colorful flea-market where you can buy old books, clothes, postcards, and antiques. Around the plaza are bars which have their tables on the street, and the area is filled with street musicians and singers. The local community organizes dances

PAMPA

PROVINCES

The pampas (a Quechua word) in Argentina applies to the vast fertile grasslands stretching from the Atlantic coast west to the Cuyo provinces. This flat area with a fairly even rainfall is the granary of Argentina. It encompasses the provinces of Buenos Aires, La Pampa, Córdoba, and Santa Fe. 105

BUENOS AIRES BAMPA P Buenos UENOSP Aires A ROVINCES IRES

Plate 3 108 110 111 112 116 117 118 120 121 121 123 125 126 127 129 129 130 131 133 133 134 135 138 136 140 142 143 145 146 148

Map of Buenos Aires Province Azul ABCDEnJKUSTWXYahipqrs Map t Bahía Blanca ABCEJKLRSTUVaeipsf Map Bahía San Blas ACESUWes~ Balcarce BCESps Baradero BCDEnJKMSUT#Wefgp Map Bragado Campana BCDEFJKSTpqrs Carhué ABCDEnJKSUWXapqs Carmen de Patagones BCEnJKRSUWpqrs Map Chascomús BCDEnSapsqr Chivilcoy Claromecó ABCDEnJKSUaepsf Map General Lavalle ABCDESWaps Guaminí CSTae Junín ABCDEJKSTUWaegps Map La Plata ABCEnJKSTUaps Map of city center Map of Paseo del Bosque Lobos ABCDEnJKSTaps Map Luján ABCEnJKSTUWapqf Map Mar de Ajó BDEnJKLSas Map

106

BUENOS AIRES ABCDEnJKLMRSTUVW#aiop rs Map of metropolitan area Map of center north Map of city center Map bus terminal area Map from Cabo Corrientes to Puerto de Mar del Plata Mar del Sur BCEIYas Mar del Tuyú ABCDEnJKSp Miramar BCDEnJKLMNSTUWYaegiop Map qs Monte Hermoso ABCDEnJKILSeps Map Necochea ABCDEnILRSUTWaeghops Map of metropolitan district Map of city center Map of the beach area Olavarría BCEnJKSUTWaps Pehuajó Pehuen Có CDEnISa Pergamino Ca Pilar a Pinamar ABCDEnJKLMRSTUasfhio Map San Antonio de Areco ABCDEnJKNSTUYapqrs Map San Bernardo BDEnILMSs Map San Clemente del Tuyú ABCDEnJKLMSUWaps Map San Miguel del Monte BCDEnMSap Map San Nicolás de los Arroyos Map ABCEnSUWapqs San Pedro ABCEnJKMSUWpqs Santa Clara del Mar ABDEnISaps Santa Teresita ABDEnILMRSas Sierra de la Ventana ABCEJKSUaes Map Tandil ABCDEnJKLMSUWaegiopqs Map Tigre BDEST#aps Map Tres Arroyos BCDEnJKLSUWaps Villa Gesell ABCDEnJKLMNRSUWXailps Map Zárate BCEnJKSUTaps

150 Mar del Plata 150 158 160 162 165 166 167 168 169 173 165 176 177 177 181 184 186 186 187 187 188 189 194 195 197 198 200 201 204 204 206 207 208 210 211 214 215 218 219 222 224 225 228 229 234

107

Buenos Aires

PAMPA PROVINCES C

235 Stopovers 241 Golf courses

uenos Aires is Argentina’s largest and most populous province. It covers 307 000 square kilometers (118530 square miles). The provincial capital is La Plata, 56 km west of the the federal capital Buenos Aires. Buenos Aires Province forms part of the pampa, and is therefore mainly flat country. The exceptions are two small mountain ranges: the Sierra de Tandil near the town of the same name and the Sierra de la Ventana near the town of Tornquist, the highest elevation being 1136 m. Most of the Sierra de la Ventana is incorporated in the Parque Provincial Ernesto Tornquist.

B

During the 1860s railroad lines were built from Buenos Aires city, opening up the newly conquered regions to the south. European settlement followed closely. Most of Argentina’s worldrenowned seaside resorts are located in Buenos Aires Province. The most famous is Mar del Plata, closely followed by Necochea 125 km further south and Villa Gesell further north. In Buenos Aires Province the gauchos cling to their traditions more than in any other province. Nearly every week a fiesta is held somewhere in the province, to which the gauchos on their horses congregate from far and near. Buenos Aires shares borders with Río Negro to the south, La Pampa, San Luis, Córdoba and Santa Fe to the west, and Entre Ríos

to the north. To the east it is bounded by the Atlantic Ocean. In a number of towns, the streets have numbers instead of names, such as “Calle 33” (Thirty-Third Street). In these cases, the building numbers are separated from the number of the street by a dash, as in “Calle 33–312” (312 Thirty-Third Street).

Golf in Buenos Aires Province This province has the highest concentration of golf courses in Argentina. Many golf courses are of excellent standard where international tournaments are held. In some cases golf courses form part of a polo ranch. At the end of this chapter is a list of towns not described separately, which have a golf course either in town or nearby.

AZUL

Azul Population: 52 000 Postal code: 7300 @ area code: (02281) Altitude: 137 m Distance from Buenos Aires: 287 km south on RN 3

Azul

108

BUENOS AIRES

A

zul is a thriving agricultural center with a few low hills to the south-west. Founded in 1832 as an outpost against Indians it was initially known as Fuerte San Serapio Mártir del Arroyo Azul. The Arroyo Azul, which flows through the city center, marked until 1829 the western limit of Argentine expansion into the pampas. The riverside has been developed into a waterfront recreation area where swimming is popular. The wide streets, such as San Martín, make Azul quite distinctive. The Nuestra Señora del Santo Rosario cathedral built in neo-Gothic style was completed in 1906. • •

In the vicinity of Azul are three golf courses.

Los Vascos, Mitre 115 Terminal, in the bus terminal, Avenida Mitre near Caneva Cafeterías • Carie’s San Martín near Moreno • Le Coin, Avenida 25 de Mayo near Irigoyen • Picasso, Uriburu near Irigoyen. Bar Eating out on RN 3 • Restaurant Isaura, attached to the service station, KM 298 • Restaurant La Estrella, RN 3 KM 299

A Festivals • • • •

Campeonato de Kayaks (Kayak Championship): February Fiesta de la Carne Vacuna Argentina (Argentine Beef Festival): May Exposición de Caballos Criollos (horse show with horsemanship): September Rally Provincial del Automovilismo: November

n Entertainment

B Tourist information •

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Dirección Municipal de Deporte y Turismo, 25 de Mayo 619 @ 431751 fax 431796. organizes local tours

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D Camping •

Camping Municipal, in the Balneario Municipal, Moreno Prolong. Sur; 150 tents AEFL $J 1; albergue $J 1

Cine Universal, Bolívar near Burgos Disco Gato Pardo, Avenida Pellegrini near Misiones Disco Mamut, 25 de Mayo near San Martín

I Post and telegraph

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E Eating out

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Restaurants • Alumni, San Martín 333 • Catriel, Yrigoyen 360 • Dime, Uriburu near Humberto I • La Marca de Burgos, Maipú 663

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Yrigoyen near 25 de Mayo Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, Yrigoyen near Uriburu

U Motoring

Service station: Shell, Avenida 25 de Mayo 850

C Accommodation in Azul Hotels *** **

Gran Azul, Colón 626 Dior, Avenida Mitre 950

Hospedajes A A A A A

Blue, Avenida Mitre 983 Cervantes, Cáneva 530 Grand’s, Necochea 674 Roma, Bolívar 563 Victoria, San Martín 983

Accommodation on RN 3 *

Hotel La Estrella, KM 299

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Azul

PAMPA PROVINCES S Buses from Azul

The bus terminal is on Avenida Mitre block 1000 near J.B. Alberdi. Bus companies • El Rápido Argentino @ 433077 • Expreso Caraza @ 424023 • La Estrella @ 422438 • Liniers @ 424023 • Plusmar @ 433077 • Río Paraná @ 424023/434749 Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fares Bahía Blanca Bariloche Buenos Aires $15.00 Junín $20.00 La Plata Mar del Plata $28.00 Olavarría Santa Rosa (La Pampa) $28.00 Tandil $6.50 Viedma

Services 8 daily 3 weekly 20 daily 1 daily 8 daily 18 daily 4 daily

Duration Bus companies 12 hrs La Estrella La Estrella 4 hrs La Estrella, Liniers El Rápido Argentino La Estrella 6 hrs La Estrella, El Rápido Argentino La Estrella

1 daily 5 daily 1 daily

El Rápido Argentino El Rápido Argentino La Estrella

T Trains

a Sport

The Ferrobaires station is in the San Martín extension near Cáneva • Buenos Aires: 03:40; return 21:00

Golf • Golf Club Azopardo, Arsenal Naval Azopardo @ (02281) 424882 • Golf Club Azul, RN 3 KM 298 @ (02281) 422908 • Cerámica San Lorenzo Golf Club, Ave. Circunvalación @ 426080/6081 Sport in Tapalqué • Golf Club Tapalqué, RP 51 54 km north @ (02283) 420130

Y Shopping

The main shopping streets are Calle Yrigoyen and Calle San Martín. Shopping centers Galería Piaza and Galería Alsina.

p Sightseeing

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AZUL To Tandil

Azul

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Casa del Cacique Catriel, corner of Colón and Corrientes. The Indian Cacique Catriel was the advancing Argentine army’s main adversary during the Desert Campaign. After his defeat he settled in Azul Museo Etnográfico y Archivo Histórico Dr. Enrique Squirru (Dr. Enrique Squirru Ethnographic Museum and Historic Archives), B.J.Ronco near San Martín. Open Wed–Fri 09:00–12:00, Sat and Sun 17:00–21:00 Museo de Ciencias Naturales CITAC (CITAC Natural Science Museum), Parque Municipal D.F. Sarmiento.

BUENOS AIRES •

•

Samples of local flora and fauna of the province Parque Municipal D.F. Sarmiento, corner of Colón and Guaminí: 22 ha (54 acres) of park land planted with different varieties of trees and plants

s Excursions

•

Tour operators • Azul Mundus, San Martín near 25 de Mayo @ 423054 fax 426372 Excursions • City walk. Includes center, Costanera Cacique Catriel, Casa Ronco, Casa López Claro, Parque Municipal, Teatro Español, Museo Histórico. Duration 4 hours

Boca de las Sierras: Rolling hills 30 km to the south on RP 80, on the road to Pablo Acosta. Another 12 km further on is the Monasterio Cisterciense Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles (Our Lady of the Angels Cistercian Monastery). With tour operator, 4 hours Camino de la Galera San Julián: This is an excursion through flat pampa country visiting the forts of Minana and Otamendi, the archeological site of La Moderna and Laguna La Barrancosa. With tour operator, 8 hours

BAHÍA BLANCA

Bahía Blanca Population: 265 000 Postal code: 8000 @ area code: (0291) Distances • From Buenos Aires: 657 km south-west on RN 3 • From Viedma: 286 km northward on RN 3

B

ahía Blanca is located on the Río Naposta, which flows into the Bahía Blanca (“White Bay”) nearby. The city’s origin goes back to the foundation of Fortaleza Protectora Argentina in 1828 as a fort protecting the border against the Indians. Bahía Blanca is the third largest city in Buenos Aires Province. The city itself is some distance from the bay, and its five ports are strung out along the bay’s northern side, Puerto Galván, Puerto Belgrano, and Puerto Ingeniero White being the most important. There is an important petrochemical complex fed by the Río Negro pipeline. Owing to its importance and strategic location, Bahía Blanca is well served by frequent bus and air services, and by the Ferrobaires, formerly known as General Roca railroad. The city is laid out in the normal checker-board fashion, with

Parque Rivadavia as its center. There are lakes in Parque de Mayo, and a zoo in Parque Independencia. Between Punta Alta and Pehuen-Có, and even beyond, are extensive unspoilt beaches. Bahía Blanca has its own Teatro Municipal and symphony orchestra, and is home of the Ballet del Sur. Included under Bahía Blanca is the seaside resort Punta Alta. Although a naval base, there are extensive beaches, and the tourist facilities include a four-star hotel. Empresa Punta Alta runs regular bus services from Bahía Blanca.

111

Bahía Blanca

PAMPA PROVINCES PATRICIOS

To Sierra de la Ventana

To Santa Rosa CASANOVA

35

BLANDENGUES

CARONTI 1

ROCA

11 DE ABRIL

2

GORRITI 19 DE MAYO

33 3

4

DONADO

AVE. AL

EM

ZAPIOLA

ALVARADO

H.YRIGOYEN 15

DORREGO

C

MITRE

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18

11

16

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17

ALSINA

10

LAMADRID

O'HIGGINS

Plaza Rivadavia

E

SOLER

14

ESTOMBA

LOPEZ

13

9

SARMIENTO

SAN MARTIN

BROWN

OLIVER

SAAVEDRA

BERUTTI

DARREGUEIRA

AVE. COLON 12

D

8

CHICLANA

7

MORENO

DRAGO

6

VIEYTES

GUEMES

CASTELLI

TERADA THOMPSON

To Neuquen

5

VIAMONTE

RONDEAU RODRIGUEZ

20

19

$

BELGRANO

To Viedma

21 23 22

FITZROY

LAS HERAS

24

25

ESPANA

LAVALLE

26

28

27

29 30

VILLARINO

GRAL. PAZ

UNDIANO

BRANDSEN

31

32 36 35 34

ISRAEL 33

3

37

RR

N EG

RD EN

L VA LE

C R PA

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PE R HA

PEDRO PICO

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BA

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LA

Plaza 9 de Julio

LL

ING. LUIGGI

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MISIONES LINIERS

BAHÍA BLANCA To Punta Alta and bus terminal

Bahía Blanca

T

112

NTES

E .C

CORRIE

I

25 DE MAYO

To Buenos Aires

PUEYRREDON

BUENOS AIRES Key to map A C D E I $ T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica Argentina Dirección de Turismo Municipal Casa de Cambio Pullman Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 3 8 10 11 14 16 17 18 22 23 24

Hospedaje Caronti Residencial La Reforma Hotel Austral Hotel Barne Hostería Santa Rosa Hotel Central Muñiz Hospedaje Danny Hotel Italia Hotel Belgrano Hotel Bahía Hotel City Hotel Hotel Argos

25 30 31 34 35 36

Hospedaje Chiclana Hospedaje Bayón Hospedaje Canciller Hospedaje Roma Hospedaje Los Vascos Hospedaje Molinari

4 Eating out 2 4 5 6

7 15 19 21 26 27 28

Restaurant Sergio Pizzería El Gran Caruso Restaurant Munich Restaurant El Mundo de la Pizza Parrilla La Vieja Esquina Restaurant Oriental Restaurant Tasca Pontevedra Restaurant Robertino Restaurant Lavalle Restaurant Taberna Baska Pizzería Il Pirata

29 Restaurant La Crêperie de Michel 32 Restaurant Biscaya 33 Restaurant Parrilla Kundt

6 Airline offices

9 Líneas Aéreas Austral 12 L A D E /S.A.P.S.E.

7 Tour operators and car rental 13 Localiza Rent a Car

9 Sights

20 Museo Histórico y de Ciencias Naturales and Teatro Español

0 Services

37 Ferrobaires rail station

Restaurants • Bizkaya, Soler 783 near Israel • El Sergio, Gorriti 61 • La Creperie de Michel, España 214 Festivals & • Lavalle, Lavalle 30 Nuestra Señora de la Merced (Our • Munich, Moreno 678 Lady of Mercy): September 24 • Oriental, Alsina 280. Chinese cuisine Día de la Tradición (Day of Tradi& • Parrilla Kundt, General Cerri 773 tion): November 10 & • Parrilla La Vieja Esquina, Moreno 202 • Robertino, Donado 58 Tourist information • Taberna Baska, Lavalle 284 Dirección de Turismo Municipal, • Tasca Pontevedra, Lamadrid 191 Alsina 45 (Plaza Rivadavia) @ 4565402

Facilities are included under the relevant sections.

A • •

B •

I Post and telegraph

E Eating out

•

Pizzerías • El Gran Caruso, Rodríguez 130 • El Mundo de la Pizza, Ave. Colón 379 & • Il Pirata, Lamadrid 360

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Moreno 34 Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Sarmiento 159

R Air services from Bahía Blanca

Aeropuerto Comandante Espora is 10 km from the city center. Airport bus fare $5.00. Airlines • Austral Airlines, Avenida Colón 59 @ 4560561 • L.A.D.E., Darregueira 21 @ 4521063 Services • • • • •

Destination Buenos Aires Comodoro Rivadavia Río Gallegos Río Grande Viedma

Services 4 daily 1 daily 1 daily 1 daily 1 daily

Duration 1 hr 1 hr 3 hrs 4 hrs 5 hrs

113

Airline AU AU AU AU AU

Bahía Blanca

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Bahía Blanca Hotels

@

4550404 fax

$E

2

@

4561700

$E/F

2

@ @ @ @

4553050 fax 4530176 fax 4562700 fax 4560060

$G 2 $F 2 $F/G 2

@

4530864

$G

2

@ @

4565446 fax 4520522

$G

2

AEFGJLPSUV

@

4520012 fax

$F

2

LP LP LP LP

@ @ @ @ @ @

4522504 4538270 4538584 4530436 4510845 4564818

$H $G $G $G

2 2 2 2

@

4522871

$H

2

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4529290 4522452

$H

2

@

4538500

$H

2

@

4886851

$F

2

Argos, España 149 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: [email protected] *** Austral, Colón 159 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: [email protected] ** Bahía, Chiclana 251 AEFGJLPUV ** City Hotel, Chiclana 228 AEFGJLPUV ** Italia, Brown 181 AEFGJLPUV ** Muñiz, O’Higgins 23 AEFGJLPSUV Fax 4523833 E-mail: [email protected] * Barne, H Yrigoyen 270 AELPV Fax 4550513 * Belgrano, Belgrano 44 AELPV • Victoria, General Paz 84 ***

Hosterías **

Santa Rosa, Sarmiento 373

Hospedajes A Bayón, Chiclana 487 A Canciller, Brown 667 A Caronti, Caronti 369 A Chiclana, Chiclana 370 A El Galeón, Belgrano 693 A La Reforma, Rondeau 39 A Los Vascos, Cerri 719

LP Opposite rail station Molinari, Cerri 747 ELP Opposite rail station Del Sur, Rodríguez 80 Roma, Cerri 759 LP Opposite rail station; shared bathrooms cheaper

A A A

Accommodation on RN 3 Motels **

Villa Bordeau A.C.A., Ave. Sesquicentenario near RN 35 ABCEFHKL

Accommodation in Punta Alta Hotels ****

Punta Alta, Mitre 368

Center, Mitre 340 • Residencial Belgrano, Rosales 171 • Residencial Calpe, J.J. Paso

***

ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ @ @

L Financial •

Trains from Buenos Aires City on page 74.

Casa de Cambio Pullman, San Martín 171. Takes all travelers’ checks

U Motoring

T Trains

RN 3 south to Viedma is a first-class sealed highway.

The Ferrobaires station is at Cerri 750, six blocks from the city center @ 421168. The line continues to San Carlos de Bariloche via San Antonio Oeste. For services see Bahía Blanca

(02932) 421787 (02932) 430956 (02932) 421328 (02932) 430449

114

BUENOS AIRES S Buses from Bahía Blanca

The bus terminal (a former rail station) is at Brown 1700 near Estados Unidos, 21 2 km from the city center). There are no hotels nearby. Take bus 515 to the city center and rail station. The bus stop for local buses 515 and 517 is on the corner of Brown and Remedios de Escalada. Several tour operators run regular Kombi services to destinations in the Bahía Blanca hinterland. Bus companies • Andesmar ° Mendoza (16 hrs) via General San Martín, Santa Rosa (41 2 hrs), Realicó, Villa Mercedes, and San Luis • Central Argentino @ 4813610 • Don Otto • El Cóndor @ 4818494 • El Rápido @ 4813118 • Ñandú del Sur ° Córdoba via Punta Alta, Pigüé,Guaminí (4 hrs), Rufino, Laboulaye, and La Carlota; 2 daily • T.A.C. @ 4819621 • TICSA @ 4816303 • Via Bariloche, Necochea 1050 @ 4817673 ° Bariloche via Neuquén Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Carhué $10.00 Bariloche $60.00 Buenos Aires $30.00 Comodoro Rivadavia $47.00 Córdoba $39.60 Esquel Guaminí $9.90 Junín de Los Andes La Plata Mar del Plata $27.00 Miramar Monte Hermoso Necochea $17.60 Neuquén $30.00 Puerto Madryn $27.70 Río Gallegos $85.00 Rosario San Antonio Oeste $26.40 San Juan San Luis Santa Fe Santa Rosa Sierra de la Ventana Tandil Trelew $45.00 Viedma $17.70 Zapala $34.10

Services 3 daily 8 daily 3 daily 3 daily 4 weekly 4 daily 2 daily

4 daily 4 daily 2 daily 4 daily 6 daily 1 daily 1 daily 3 daily 4 daily 2 daily 4 daily 5 daily 4 daily

Duration 31 2 hrs 14 hrs 10 hrs

Company Ñandú del Sur La Estrellal, El Sureño, El Valle Don Otto, La Estrella–La Puntual

15 hrs Don Otto, La Estrella, T.A.C. 15 hrs TUS, Don Otto 4 hrs Empresa Colón La Estrella, El Petróleo La Estrella, Río Paraná 7 hrs El Pampa El Pampa La Acción El Pampa 8 hrs La Estrella, El Valle 10 hrs Don Otto, Central Argentino 10 hrs Don Otto, T.A.C. Don Otto, Central Argentino 8 hrs Don Otto, La Estrella T.I.C.S.A. T.I.C.S.A. Costera Criolla, Central Argentino, 41 2 hrs Andesmar, TUS La Estrella Río Paraná 12 hrs Don Otto, T.A.C.,La Estrella 5 hrs La Estrella, Don Otto, TUS 12 hrs El Valle

115

Bahía Blanca

PAMPA PROVINCES Car rental • A1 Rent a Car, Lamadrid 181, @ 4537024 • Localiza Rent a car, Avenida Colón 138 @ 428681

•

a Sport Golf • Pago Chico Club de Campo, RP 229 KM 15 @ (0291) 428681/438365 • Palihue Golf Club, Cerrito-Bo, Parque Palihue @ 424514/443742 Sport in Puerto Belgrano Puerto Belgrano is 23 km east of Bahía Blanca. • Golf Club Puerto Belgrano, Base Naval Puerto Belgrano @ (02932) 487915

p Sightseeing •

•

•

Museo Histórico y de Ciencias Naturales (History and Natural Science Museum), Dorrego 116. Collection of historic documents, photographs and objects linked to the evolution of the city. Also archeological and ethnographic material on Patagonia is exhibited Other museums: Museo Ezequiel Martínez Estrada, Avenida Alem 908; Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes, Alsina 65

•

s Excursions •

•

Balneario Villa del Mar, 27 km south-east for fishing enthusiasts; Punta Alta 31 km south-east with the

naval base. Both destinations can be reached with local buses Sierra de la Ventana: 100 km north. The range is partly within the Parque Provincial Ernesto Tornquist. Its highest point is Cerro de la Ventana at 1136 m, in sharp contrast with the green farm lands below. Near the peak is a rock opening (ventana or “window”), to which wind erosion has given a freakish appearance. A scenic drive runs from Tornquist along RP 176 beside the Río de la Ventana through the Ventana gorge. There are frequent bus and train services. Fishing and golf are popular. Empresa El Cóndor runs buses to Tornquist for $1.80 and to Sierra de la Ventana for $2.50. See also Sierra de la Ventana on page 214 Monte Hermoso: 106 km west. A beach resort; take RN 3 then turn onto RN 78. During the vacation season, which runs from December to February, buses run there frequently. Outside the vacation season most establishments are closed. Empresa La Acción company runs regular buses between 05:00 and 18:00; the two-hour trip costs $2.40. See also Monte Hermoso on page 173 Pehuen Có: A beach resort 84 km westwards on RN 3. See page 186 Termas Los Gauchos: 161 km south of Bahía Blanca off RN 3 near the village of Villalonga. This is a fledgling thermal resort. See Excursions from Carmen de Patagones on page 127

BAHÍA SAN BLAS

Bahía San Blas Postal code: 8506 @ area code: Operator-connected; dial 19 Distance from Viedma: 90 km north-east

B

ahía San Blas is located on Isla Jabalí in the Bahía Anegada and is the southernmost seaside resort in Buenos Aires Province. The turnoff from RN 3 is at KM 918. The island is 15 km long and 6 km wide; it is linked by a bridge to the mainland. It is popular during the

Bahía San Blas

summer months, its main attractions being fishing and the sandy beaches.

116

BUENOS AIRES E Eating out

The hub of the town is the Avenida Costanera, where there are hotels, restaurants, post office, and public telephones. Bahía San Blas comes to life at the beginning of December for about four months. Most hotels are shut during the off-season. Bahía San Blas is the gateway to the Bahía Anegada with its rich birdlife and fishing opportunities.

• • •

S Buses

Buses run regularly between Bahía Blanca, Viedma, and Carmen de Patagones.

U Motoring

•

A Festivals •

•

Las 24 Horas de San Blas: A fishing competition held on the third Saturday in January in conjunction with the Fiesta Patronal de San Blas Fiesta de la Corvina Rubia: February 3. Fishing competition

• • • • •

Service station: A.C.A., Calle 28 near Avenida 4

s Excursions

•

C Accommodation *

Restaurant Mike, Avenida Costanera, @ 499233. Also accommodation Restaurant Club Jorge Newbery, Avenida Costanera Cafetería El Galpón. Dancing

Hostería San Blas, Avenida Costanera AELPV @ 499219 $I 1 Residencial Club Jorge Newbery, Avenida Costanera @ 499231 Residencial La Posta del Jabalí, Avenida Costanera @ 499267 Cabaña de Toty, Avenida Costanera near Calle 35 E Cabañas del Pescador, Avenida Costanera near Calle 33 @ 499288 E. Also fishing cruises Private Juan Pedro Sarquis @ 499222. Also fishing cruises

Bahía Anegada is an area of 386 000 ha (953 825 acres) consisting of marshes and beaches along the coast. The bay is full of islands, the biggest ones being Isla de los Césares, Isla Flamenco, Isla de los Riachos, Isla Gama, and Isla Jabalí. Isla Jabalí is the southernmost island. These islands were created by the sediments of the Río Negro which breaks up into several channels. The many mouths of the Río Negro are the northern limit of the wilderness area; the southern limit is at Punta Rubia. Much of the Bahía Anegada has been declared a wildlife reserve

BALCARCE

Balcarce Population: 33 000 Postal code: 7620 @ area code: (02266) Altitude: 108 m Distances • From Buenos Aires 407 km south on RN 2 and RP 55 • From Mar del Plata: 69 km westwards on RN 226

B

alcarce is located in a hilly, pine-forested area with many streams. Juan Fangio the great racing driver was born here. Sights include Iglesia San José built in 1886 with two steeples: one is the clock tower, the other contains the church bells. Near Sierras El Volcán, some 49 km distant on RN 229, is a satellite tracking station. 117

Balcarce

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Balcarce Hotels *** **

Gran Balcarce, Calle 16–646 Albergini, Ave. Kelly 688

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AEFGJLPUV

Residenciales

A San José, Avenida González Chávez 485 LP B Victoria, Calle 19–536

B Tourist information •

Subsecretaría de Turismo, Avenida Suipacha 931 @ 422617 fax

Restaurants • La Barra, Avenida Cháves 432 • Ruta 55, Avenida Centenario near Calle 39 • El Cerrito, Calle 21 near 14. Pizzería • La Casona, Cháves near Calle 13 • Los Picapiedras, Del Valle near Calle 14. Pizzería

$F $G

2 2

@ @

422533 422545

$H $G

2 2

s Excursions Tour operators • Balcarce Turismo, Calle 21–529 @ 424126 fax 430908 • Hombre y Naturaleza Aventuras, calle 13–882 @ 422181. Specialises in outdoor activities Excursions • Cinco Dedos hills: Not very high, but the rock outcrops are peculiarly shaped • Sierra de Bachicha, located north-west of the town is a hilly area of not more than 380 m, but has great natural beauty: easy trekking on trails along mountain streams and ferns • Sierra La Barrosa and Laguna Brava: 35 km east on RN 226. In the sierra is the Autódromo Municipal Juan Manuel Fangio, named in honor of the famous car-racing driver. On Laguna Brava there are two serviced camping areas with boat ramps, boat hire, and hot water. Camping Ruca Lauquen has a small restaurant

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Avenida San Martín near 109. Bus companies Empresa San Martín to Coronel Vidal; El Rápido Argentino; Empresa Mar del Plata–Córdoba; Tirsa; El Rápido @ 431858; Costera Criolla; Automotores Mercedes. Long-distance services • Bariloche via Neuquén • Buenos Aires (6 hrs); 4 daily • Mar del Plata

p Sightseeing

Centro Technológico–Cultural y Museo del Automovilismo “Juan Manuel Fangio” (Juan Manuel Fangio Technical and cultural center and Museum of the Automobile).

BARADERO

Baradero Population: 28 000 Postal code: 2942 @ area code: (02329) Distances from Buenos Aires: 142 km north-west on RN 9

Baradero

422055 423997

Most of Manuel Fangio’s trophies are here exhibited. Also the history of the evolution of the motor car. Open 15th December–15th March daily 10:00–20:00; the rest of the year from 11:00–18:00

E Eating out

•

@ @

118

BUENOS AIRES

B

aradero is located on the Río Baradero not far from the junction with the Río Paraná. It was founded in 1615 by Hernando Arias de Saavedra (known as “Hernandarias”) by re-settling 250 Indians from the Paraná islands; it is thus the oldest settlement in Buenos Aires Province. In 1856 came the first Swiss immigrants. The agricultural activities centre around strawberries, logan berries, cherries, and kiwifruit. •

There are many clubs dedicated to water sports, such as sailing and fishing, many with private beaches along the river front. Indeed Baradero is well positioned to visit the islands and channels in the Río Paraná delta with its exuberant plant and bird life. Within the town precinct on RP 41 there is also a kiwifruit plantation. In the vicinity is estancia Baltimore @ (02329) 493382, reached via RN 9 and RP 41, with accommodation, swimming pool, horseriding and walks.

El Rincón de Betún, San Martín opposite Hotel Edelweiss • La Chacra, Bulnes 434 near Araoz Pizzerías • Malabia, Malabia 651 Cafeterías and confiterías • Bar Americano, San Martín 850 • Los Angelitos, Anchorena 1050

n Entertainment

•

I Post and telegraph

• •

B Tourist information •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Araoz near Santa María de Oro Telephone: Telecom, San Martín 1157

M Services and facilities

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, San Martín 1046 @ 483627 fax 480413 open Mon–Fri 08:00–11:00 and 15:00–18:00

•

Sport and fishing gear: Flopes, San Martín 1052

S Buses

C Accommodation

The bus terminal is on Avenida San Martín outside the train station. • T.A. Chevallier runs daily services to Buenos Aires (2 hrs) and Rosario (4 hrs)

Hotel Bariloche, Darregueira 448 AELPSV @ 480921 $G 2 * Hotel Edelweiss, San Martín 392 AELPSV @ 480900 $F 2 * Hotel Jacarandá, Boedo 1352 AELPV @ 481293 A Residencial Center, Darregueira 648 ALP @ 480351 • Residencial El Colonial, San Martín 155 @ 483901 *

U Motoring

•

Service station: A.C.A., Avenida Libertador General San Martín near E Genaud

T Trains

Accommodation on RN 9 • Hotel Costa Paraná, KM 142.5

Baradero is served by the F C General B Mitre railroad. The train station is on Avenida Tomás Edison near San Martín.

D Camping •

Anfiteatro José Hernández, Urquiza near San Martín

Camping Mutua, Almte Brown near Río Baradero

# Water transport

There are launch services on the Río Baradero from Alte Brown north near the balneario located just outside town.

E Eating out Restaurants • El Artesano, Avenida San Martín 1402 near J. Hernández • El Fogón, San Martín 202

119

Baradero

PAMPA PROVINCES BARADERO

N

Paraná Delta

Rio Baradero

Puerto 1

ALMTE. BROWN 41

ALT EB RO WN

3

SERRANO 5

4

MORENO

ECHEVERRIA 7

6

J.B. ALBERDI

TIN AR M

E. S AM YN

N SA

8

V. SARSFIELD A URQUIZ

9

Parque Sarmiento

BOEDO

11

RODRIGUEZ C

A

Plaza Mitre E

41

D

SANTA MARIA DE ORO I

12

14 13

MALABIA 16 15 17

DARRAGUEIRA

COLOMBES 18

To bus terminal

Baradero

T

120

To Buenos Aires and Rosario

9

CABRERA

10

LAPRIDA

ANCHORENA

ARAOZ

SAENZ

SAN MARTIN

BULNES

THAMES

MORENO

PASSO

GORRITI

ACEVEDO

BUENOS AIRES Key to map A C D E I

Iglesia Santiago Apóstol Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Dirección Municipal de Turismo Money exchange Bus terminal

$ T

3 Accommodation 1 6

Camping Mutua Hostería El Colonial

7 15 17 18

11 Cafetería Bar Americano 12 Cafetería Los Angelitos 16 Pizzería Malabia

Hotel Edelweiss Hotel Bariloche Residencial Center Hotel Jacaranda

5 Entertainment

4 Eating out

9

3 4 5 8

Club Regata Club de Pesca Restaurant El Fogón Restaurant El Rincón de Betún 10 Restaurant La Chacra

a Sport

Anfiteatro José Hernández

9 Sights

14 Museo Histórico Municipal “Juan Lavalle”

0 Services

13 Sport and fishing gear

p Sightseeing

•

Club de Pesca and Club Regatas are next to each other on Alte Brown near Río Baradero; also restaurants.

Museo Histórico Municipal “Juan Lavalle” (Juan Lavalle Municipal Historical Museum), Santa María de Oro 763 near Laprida

BRAGADO

Bragado Postal code: 6640 @ area code: (02342) Distance from Junín: 87 km north-west on RP 46

B

ragado is located in the central-northern part of Buenos Aires Province on RN 5, the main highway to Santa Rosa in La Pampa Province. It caters mainly for passing traffic but also has a golf course.

C Accommodation • • • • •

a Sport

•

Hotel Coll, Maroni 15 @ 422858 Hotel del Parque, Alsina 355 @ 424177 Hotel Halley, Rivadavia 2035 @ 421200 Hotel Posadas, Santa Rosa 31 @ 422306 Residencial Miceli, Suárez 134 @ 422154

Bragado Golf Club, Mayor Irusta 3777 @ 422142 Sport in 25 de Mayo Located 40 km south on RP 46. • Las Mulitas Golf Club, Calle 25 near Calle 204 @ (02345) 42764/3520

CAMPANA

Campana Population: 75 000 Postal code: 2804 @ area code: (02489) Distance from Buenos Aires: 75 km north-east on RN 9

C

ampana is located on the Río Paraná de las Palmas. It serves as a river port for the petroleum industry. No official founding date has been recorded, but it is known that Juan Garay, a conquistador with a royal mandate, granted

121

Campana

PAMPA PROVINCES land to Don Pedro Franco who built a small estancia, which then passed on to Don Francisco Alvarez de Campana. The actual town was founded by Luis Costa in 1875. The train station near the Río Paraná was built in 1875. The Costa family’s house situated on Luis costa near Colón is now a national monument. Although Campana is an industrial center — a petrochemical refinery is established here — the nearby river has attracted many tourists for water-skiing, fishing, and sailing. In 1907 the Spanish immigrant Manuel Iglesias built the first Argentine automobile here in Campana. The main attraction is the proximity to the lush and densely forested Río Paraná delta with its myriad canals. There are river cruises from Campana which make stops on canal-side recreos, a type of restaurant where meat is often cooked on the spit.

08:00–14:00 and Sat, Sun 07:30–16:30. Also cabins

E Eating out

•

I Post and telegraph

• •

The bus terminal for T.A. Chevallier and Expreso Paraná is on San Martín near Lavalle; both companies run regular daily services to Buenos Aires.

T Trains

The station for the F C General B Mitre line to Retiro station in Buenos Aires is on the corner of Avenida Rocca and Alem.

Edificio 6 de Julio @ 422417/421790

D Camping • • •

Post office: Encotesa, Avenida Rocca 273 Telephone: Telecom, Avenida Rocca 273

S Buses

B Tourist information •

Recreo La Azulada, on Canal Irigoyen

p Sightseeing

Club de Pescadores, on Canal Alem; also trailer sites; restaurant; access by boat Recreo El Descanso, Canal Alem; access by boat, services 07:30–21:00 every half hour. Restaurant Recreo Blondeau, Canal Alem near Río Carabelas; access by boat takes 1 hour. Ferry services Mon–Fri

•

•

Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes (Municipal Fine Arts Museum), San Martín 435. On exhibit are paintings, sculptures and works of art of Argentine artists Casa de los Costa, Colón near Luis Costa. This is the house of the founders of the city built in 1873 in Louis XIV style

C Accommodation in Campana Hotels * *

City, Belgrano 540 Plaza, San Martín 387 E- mail: [email protected]

Hosterías * *

Alem, Alem 868 El Talar, Colón 106

AELPV AEHLPVY

AELPV AELPV

Residenciales

A Flores, Alem 788 LP A Rex, Rivadavia 640 LP A Waldorf, Rivadavia near Ameghino LP

Campana

122

@

422536

$H

2

@

424102 fax

$F/G 2

@

420691

$G $H

2 2

@ @ @

423687 421062 420267

$H $G

2 2

BUENOS AIRES s Excursions •

Reserva Natural Estricta Otamendi: Located on the banks of the Río Paraná de las Palmas. Approximately 2600 ha (6440 acres), it was created to preserve the unique flora

•

and fauna of the Río Paraná delta. It can be visited daily 09:00–18:00 Estancia Santa Susana is a nineteenth century estancia located on RP 6 KM 12. It caters for tourists, offering gaucho barbecues and horsemanship. Information @ (02322) 492039

CARHUÉ

Carhué Population: 9000 Postal code: 6430 @ area code: (02936) Distances From Buenos Aires: 520 km south-west on RN 205 and RP 65 • From Bahía Blanca: 196 km northward on RN 33 •

C

arhué is located 8 km from Lago Epecuén in the pampa steppe. Last century Carhué was an outpost of European culture against the Indians. This lake’s heavy salt content is said to render its waters beneficial to sufferers of rheumatism and skin diseases, but because of the saltiness the lake has no fish. The climate is temperate with mean winter temperatures of 5–10°C (40–50°F) and in summer 22–25°C (64–75°F). The driest months are June–October, the wettest months are November, Januar, and March. Agricultural production comprises cereals, sunflowers, and honey.

D Camping

There are scores of hotels and restaurants. Since the devastating flood in 1985 the town has rebuilt and modernized its facilities; this includes the Centro Hidrotermal Carhué and several spas on the outskirts of town. In the vicinity are several small lagunas suitable for fishing. Public transport connections to Bahía Blanca, Mar del Plata, and Buenos Aires are good.

•

E Eating out Restaurants • Epecuén, Adolfo Alsina near Q. Martín • Bar El 11, Adolfo Alsina 419. Parrilla • El Quicho, Colón 1270. Parrilla • La Curva, access to RN 33. Parrilla • La Marca, San Martín near 9 de Julio. Parrilla Pizzerías • Il Bocato del Faraón, San Martín 1088 • Tiempo Libre, San Martín 755

A Festivals • •

Aniversario de la Fundación de Carhué (Foundation day of Carhué): 21st January Fiesta Provincial del Turismo Termal: February

B Tourist information •

Camping Municipal La Chacra 5 km from town is a 50 ha (124 acres) tree studded area. Through the area runs the Río Pigüé, a fresh-water stream. Showers, toilets

n Entertainment

• •

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Pellegrini near Moreno @ 42233; Web site:www.mercotour.com/carhue/; e-mail: [email protected]

123

Casa del Tango, Moreno 1057 Puebla Disco-Bar, access RN 33 near Adolfo Alsina

Carhué

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Carhué Hotels *** ** ** * *

Gran Hotel Levalle, Avenida San Martín near R.S. Peña ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Termas Hotel Avenida, Bulevar A. Alsina 1138 Full board and thermal bath AEFGJKLPSUVY Termas Hotel Carhué, Dorrego 540 AEFGJLPSUV Full board and thermal bath Buenos Aires, Urquiza 333 ACDELPSTV Thermal bath Shalom, Belgrano 880 AELPSV Full board and thermal bath

@

432867 fax

$E

2

@

432887 fax

$E

2

@

430302

$H

2

@

432503

$F

2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

432441 432926 432443 432471 432991 432999 432066 432114

$F $G

2 2

$I

1

Residenciales

A Hostal del Lago, R.S.Peña near 25 de Mayo Full board and thermal bath LP A Mirage, Access to RN 30 LPS B Dolores Imas, Colón 1336 B Edith, B. Mitre 741 B Epecuén, Bulevar A. Alsina near Quinquela B La Marias, Colón 1311 B Maruja, Alvear 730 B Silcrismar, Avellaneda 1122

• •

•

Tanguería Mi Noche, Colón near Bulevar Lavalle Tamara Pop, Colón 900. Latin music

•

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Plaza Lavalle Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, Avenida San Martín near Colón

p Sightseeing

S Buses

•

•

Empresa Liniers ° La Plata ($28.00; 73 4 hrs); 1 daily 21:50 ; return 21:45 • El Zorzal ° Santa Rosa in La Pampa Province (41 4 hrs); 16:00 daily except Tues, Thurs; return 06:40 daily except Tues, Thurs There are also daily buses to Buenos Aires, Bahía Blanca, Mar del Plata, and La Plata.

Tour operators • Chasiche Agencia de Viajes, @ (02936) 430022 • Hunting trips are organized by Sr. Pedro María de Aguirre @ (02936) 42516 Excursions • Balneario La Isla: Part of an estancia founded in 1877. The modern flour mill is housed in the same building erected in 1887. The spa has a thermal water pool, showers, toilets, and a café • Balneario La Barranca: At the mouth of the Río Pigüé into the lake

Service station: A.C.A., Avenida San Martín near Colón

a Sport

Fishing in Laguna Rolito, Laguna La Paraguaya, and Laguna La Salada.

Carhué

Museo Regional Adolfo Alsina (Regional Adolfo Alsina Museum), Laprida near Rivadavia

s Excursions

U Motoring •

Fishing: Sr. Sergio López @ (02936) 42399 and Sr. Carlos Canero @ (02936) 42547 organize fishing trips Flights: Carhué has an air strip. The Aero Club organizes sightseeing flights with small airplanes, capacity of three passengers; $35.00 for 20 minutes

124

BUENOS AIRES • •

•

Villa Turística Lago Epecuén: The ruins of the 1985 flood can be seen. Half day by tour operator $5.00 Estancia Pampa La Dulce: This is an old established estancia open to tourists. From the house you can see a salt lake with pink flamingos. Swimming, hiking in the rolling hills, horseriding. Full day by tour operator $22.00 including meal on the estancia

Puán and Pigüé: Small towns 70 km south in hilly country. Puán is a picturesque little town built on a hill with a small lake in the vicinity; nearby is the convent of the Hermanas Clarisas. Tour operators organize day tours to these locations which also include the town of Sierra de la Ventana (golf, casino) and Parque Nacional Tornquist

CARMEN DE PATAGONES

Carmen de Patagones Population: 19 000 Postal code: 8504 @ area code: (02920) Altitude: 44 m Distance from Bahía Blanca: 276 km south on RN 3

C

armen de Patagones is located on the northern bank of the Río Negro some 30 km from the river mouth, opposite Viedma. The two cities are linked by a bridge and a ferry service. It was founded in 1779 as Fuerte del Río Negro by Don Francisco de Viedma. Carmen de Patagones is often referred to simply as “Patagones”. The Iglesia Parroquial Nuestra Señora del Carmen was built in 1883. A ferry service across the Río Negro links Carmen de Patagones with Viedma. Included here is the thermal resort of Villalonga. This village is situated off RN 3 110 km north of

Carmen del Patagones, or alternatively 161 km south of Bahía Blanca. The thermal resort of Los Gauchos, a further 10 km east of the turnoff, located in a quiet agricultural zone. Thermal water was discovered here in 1928 when drilling for oil. The thermal water has a high bromide content. The facilities are being upgraded.

C Accommodation in Carmen de Patagones

For accommodation across the Río Negro see Accommodation in Viedma in Río Negro Province on page 492. Hotel Patagones, Rivadavia 384 A Hotel Argentino, Bynon 259 A Hospedaje Reggiani, Bynon 420

*

Accommodation in Villalonga

A Hospedaje Los Gauchos Includes 2 meals and thermal bath B Hospedaje Central, Río Colorado • Hotel Blanko, Patagones 75

AELPV AP LP LP

@ @ @

461495 461595 463065

@ @ @

(02928) 492128 $H (02928) 492261 (02928) 492237

2

Some distance from the actual thermal resort in the small village of Stroeder, 20 km south of Villalonga, is Hospedaje María Belén @ (02928) 491098.

125

Carmen de Patagones

PAMPA PROVINCES

ALSIN

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PARAGUAY

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12

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Carmen de Patagones

Neptuno, Rivadavia 310. Pizzería Sabatella, Rivadavia 218. Cafetería Tío Pepe, Harosteguy near Alsina. Parrilla and pastas Disco Sheik, Avellaneda 28

3 Accommodation 1 2 4

Hospedaje Reggiani Hotel Patagones Hotel Argentino

4 Eating out 3 5 7

Restaurant Neptuno Restaurant Sabatella Restaurant Loft

5 Entertainment 6

IED MA

n Entertainment

•

Restaurants • La Vieja Esquina, Marcelino Crespo near San Juan • Loft, Alsina 70. Pizzería Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) and Museo Histórico Regional “Francisco de Viedma” Correo Argentino Telephone (locutorio) Dirección de Turismo Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires Bus terminal

F. DE

CE

MA YO

E Eating out

A C

GE R R FERR FERRY Y

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SEN

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• • •

Dirección de Turismo, Bynon 186 @ 461777 fax 461780

Key to map

RA

IN

Viedma

B Tourist information •

OV

NE

VI ED IN RÍO MA C E B UE CO NO R ST ÍO NE AN NE S A ER AA G GR I R E VE ROO S . F. DE V

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R.S. PEÑA

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2 3

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1

BARBIERI

ZAMBONINI

FAGNANO

H. YRIGOYEN

E

COMODORO RIVADAVIA

GARIBALDI

RIVADAVIA

ITALIA

BROWN

25 DE MAYO

BUENOS AIRES

CORDOBA

SUIPACHA

SAN LORENZO

VILLEGAS

Plaza Villarino

SAN MARTIN

BYNON

CARMEN DE PATAGONES

Disco Sheik

126

8

Teatro Español

9 Sights 9 10 11 12

Tower of the old fort Plaza 7 de Mayo Cuevas Maragatas Casa Histórica del Banco de la Provincia

0 Services

13 Ferry to Viedma

BUENOS AIRES I Post and telegraph •

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Paraguay 38 Telephone: Locutorio, Comodoro Rivadavia 379

L Finance •

Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires, Comodoro Rivadavia near Alsina

•

R Air services

See Air services in Viedma in Río Negro Province on page 492.

•

S Buses

The bus terminal is on the corner of A Barbieri and Méjico. However, most bus companies stop only in Viedma, just across the river. Restaurant. • El Cóndor/La Puntual runs 2 services daily to Buenos Aires (15 hrs) and 4 services weekly to Puerto Madryn • Empresa Río Paraná runs 1 service daily to La Plata

• •

s Excursions

•

U Motoring •

Service station: Y.P.F., Bynon near Alsina

p Sightseeing •

ground floor of Municipalidad, Plaza 7 de Marzo. The museum provides an overview of the town’s earliest colonial days and of historical events that took place in the vicinity, such as fierce resistance to an invading Brazilian squadron in 1827; and archeological findings from the preHispanic era Tower of the old fort, built around 1780. Situated between the parish church and the school Cuevas Maragatas: A cave located on private property in the lower part of Calle Rivadavia. It served as the initial shelter for some Spanish families when they first arrived here Teatro Español 7 de Marzo near Barrejas was built in 1875 Casa Histórica del Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires in Mitre. Originally a naval depot, it is now a museum

•

Museo Histórico Regional “Francisco de Viedma” (Francisco de Viedma Regional Historical Museum),

Cerro de la Caballada: The battlefield where the Brazilian invasion in 1827 was repelled by the 200-odd defenders of the city. Located 1 km from the town center Bahía San Blas: 100 km north-east. See Bahía San Blas on page 116

CHASCOMÚS

Chascomús Population: 30 000 Postal code: 7130 @ area code: (02241) Altitude: 11 m Distance from Buenos Aires: 123 km south on RN 2

C

hascomús, meaning “very salty water” in the Araucanian language, is located in the pampa on the shallow Laguna Chascomús, whose average depth is only 1.5 m. The laguna forms part of the chained lakes system, the other lagunas being Chis-Chis, Vitel, Yalca, and Adela. Laguna Chascomús is fed by the Río Salado; its size varies with the rainfall, but most of the time it averages 15 km long and 5 km wide. The town grew up around Fuerte San Juan Bautista, founded in 1779

by Pedro Nicolás Escribano to contain the marauding Indians. In 1839

127

Chascomús

PAMPA PROVINCES a rebellion known as “Los Libres del Sur” broke out against the dictatorship of President Rosas, but was crushed by Rosas’ troops on the shores of the laguna. The first railroad arrived in 1865. Avenida Costanera is the town’s focal point, where most of the hotels and cafeterías are situated.

•

B Tourist information

• •

•

La Farola, Avenida Costanera near Lamadrid • Lo de Mitta, Lamadrid near Dolores • Rende, Avenida Costanera near Colón Cafeterías • Lado B, Libres del Sur near Bolívar • Ski, Libres del Sur 86 • Texas, Belgrano 112

n Entertainment

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Edificio del Turista, Avenida Costanera España 12 @ 430405 fax 436123

S Buses

There are 17 services daily for the two-hour trip to Buenos Aires, run by Costera Criolla, La Estrella/La Puntual, and Empresa Río de la Plata. • Bus companies: Antón, Río de la Plata, Costera Criolla, and El Cóndor

D Camping •

•

Disco Macoba, Avenida Costanera Disco Lennon, Libres del Sur 112

Monte Brown, Camino de Circunvalación, on the Laguna AEL $J per tent Monte Corti, Avenida Costanera España near La Porteña AEL $J 1, bungalows $H 2

a Sport

•

E Eating out

•

Restaurants • Campo, Belgrano 72 • La Casa de Candida, Alvear near Arenales. Pizzería • La Colonial, Avenida Costanera near Corrientes

•

Fishing: Club de Pesca Náutica, Avenida Lastra near Avenida Costanera; restaurant Golf: Chascomús Country Club, Avenida 25 de Mayo @ 423733; restaurant Sailing: Club de Regatas, Avenida Costanera; restaurant

C Accommodation in Chascomús Apart hotels • • • •

Chascomús, Avenida Costanera near Varela La Posada, Avenida Costanera Las Cabañas, Avenida Costanera near Tucumán Palmeras, Avenida Costanera near Lamadrid

Hotels ** * * *

Laguna, Libres del Sur near Maipú Bosnia, Córdoba near Lamadrid Los Vascos, Castelli 447 Nuevo Colón, Libres del Sur 70

AEFGHJLPTUVY AELPSV AELPSV AELPSV

Residenciales A A A A B B B

Costanera, Castelli near Avenida Costanera LPS El Lago, Dolores near Sarmiento LPS La Madrileña, Lamadrid 357 LP La Toja, Libres del Sur 102 ELP Chascomús, Lastra 367 MacBren, Avenida Costanera near Bolívar San José, Mazzini near Washington

Chascomús

128

@ @ @ @

425731 423503 423554 422277

$E $E $G $H

2 2 2 1

@ @ @ @

436236 423337 422856 422977

$F $H $F $G

2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @

422808 430879 422141 422268 422968 423744 423276

$H $G

2 2

$H

2

$H $H

2 2

BUENOS AIRES p Sightseeing •

•

Museo Pampeana (Pampas Museum), Parque de Los Libres Sur. Also known as the “gaucho museum”, it is b u i l t i n t h e s t y l e o f a n i n eteenth-century stage-coach relay-dispatch house. There are displays of archeological artefacts, antique furniture, and leather clothing worn by gauchos Negro chapel, corner of Lamadrid and Venezuela. Built in 1862 by the Negro Brotherhood, a fraternity of freed Negro slaves, it served as a hospital during the cholera epidemic in

• •

1866 and during the yellow fever outbreak in 1871 Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Merced on the Plaza Independencia was completed in 1847 Hydrobiological experimental station, corner of Avenida Lastra and Juárez. The fertilization of pejerrey eggs for export can be observed

s Excursions

•

Villa del Sur: 11 km north. Here is the bottling plant of “Villa del Sur” mineral water

CHIVILCOY

Chivilcoy Postal code: 6620 @ area code: (02346) Distance from Buenos Aires: 160 km south-west on RN 7

C

hivilcoy is on the main Buenos Aires–Santa Rosa route in La Pampa Province. It has adequate tourist facilities to cater for travelers passing through.

The local Club Social has a course.

• • • • •

golf

C Accommodation Hotels • Avenida, Ave. De Tomaso @ 424934 • Centro, Necochea 34 @ 422444 • Chivilcoy, Ave. Sarmiento 125 @ 430700

Falcone, Belgrano 201 @ 420116 Iglesias, Pueyrredón 115 @ 422322 Necochea, Necochea 24 @ 423492 Patri, Ave. Ceballos 163 @ 424044 Petit Hotel, H. Yrigoyen 259 @ 434242

a Sport

•

Golf: Club Social y Atlético La Pampa, RN 5 @ 424592

CLAROMECÓ

Claromecó Population: 1000 Postal code: 7505 @ area code: (02982) Distances • From Bahía Blanca: 260 km east on RN 3 then RN 228 • From Necochea: 190 km south-east on RN 228 and RP 73

C

laromecó is a newly developing seaside resort at the mouth of the Arroyo Claromecó. It can be reached by bus via Tres Arroyos 65 km inland. High dunes run along behind the beach, interspersed with rocky outcrops. Because of a warm current coming down from Brazil, the water is considerably warmer 129

Claromecó

PAMPA PROVINCES To Tres Arroyos and Necochea

Calle 13

Calle 36

Calle 34

Calle 32

Calle 30

Calle 28

Calle 26

Calle 24

Calle 22

Calle 20

Calle 18

Calle 16

Calle 14

Calle 15

Calle 11 I

C

D

A

Calle 9 T

Calle 7

N

$

Calle 5

To Dunamar

Calle 3

E AV

N TA OS .C

ER

A

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ar M

SYMBOLS A Iglesia Parroquial C Municipalidad (Town Hall) D Correo Argentino I Información Turística

CLAROMECÓ

T Bus Terminal $ Banco Comercial Tres Arroyos

than that quite a distance further north.

E Eating out

The “suburb” of Dunamar reached via a foot bridge across the Río Claromecó has many vacation cabins and camping grounds surrounded by pine forests. This is a quiet seaside resort with plenty of good fishing and even a nine-hole golf course.

Restaurants • El Farolito, Calle 28–348 • Juanillo, Calle 9–2097 • La Gallina Turuleca, Avenida 26–555 • Pil-Pil, Calle 28 near 11. Pizzería Cafeterías • Cleopatra, Calle 28 near 9 • La Boya, Calle 5 near 22 • Montoto, Calle 22 near 3

A Festivals •

Concurso de la Corvina Negra: A fishing competition held February 24

n Entertainment

Admission to discos: $J • Disco Monkey, Calle 5 near 22 • Disco Puerto Libre, Calle 5 between Calle 22 and 24 • Disco Tucu–Tucu, Calle 22 between Calle 5 and 3

B Tourist information •

Municipal tourist information office, Calle 28 (between Calle 9 and Calle 11) @ 4280001

D Camping •

I Post and telegraph

A.C.A. campsite, Calle 4 between Calle 37 and 41

Claromecó

•

130

Post office: Correo Argentina Calle 28–325 between Calle 9 and 11

BUENOS AIRES C Accommodation in Claromecó

Most hotels are closed during the off season, from April to November. Hotels *

Hosterías *

Boston, Calle 7 near Calle 26

Motels *

Rigel, Calle 43 near Calle 10

Residenciales A A A A

@

480360

$H

2

AELPV

@

480114

$H

2

AELPV

@

480026

LPS LP LP LPS

@ @

480014 423938

@

430369

$I $I $I $H

1 1 1 2

Claromecó, Calle 7 near Avenida 26 AELPSV

Céntrico, Calle 9 near Calle 28 La Reserva, Calle 7 near Calle 24 Pablito, Calle 26 near Calle 9 Suyay, Calle 11 and Calle 28

S Buses

Claromecó’s bus terminal is at Calle 28–235 @ 480018. Note that outside the main tourist season long-distance buses only call at Tres Arroyos. From Tres Arroyos local buses then operate. Companies • Empresa Alba de Ajó, Empresa Bernasconi, and Expreso Mar del Sur (to Buenos Aires and Miramar) • Empresa Detroit: Tres Arroyos

•

p Sightseeing

•

U Motoring •

•

Museo Regional (Regional Museum), Calle 28. On exhibit are fossils and objects made by the former indigenous population. Open Mon, Wed, Sat 20:00–22:00

s Excursions

Shell service station, Calle 21 near 24

•

a Sport •

Organized deep-sea fishing trips cost $40.00 per person Golf: Club de Campo Santana @ (02783) 423543; nine holes in undulating country interspersed with pine tree; $2.00 per person; restaurant

Boating: Club Náutico, Calle 16 near 7; restaurant Fishing: The best seaside fishing spots are Médano, Dunamar; El Caracolero is a rocky fishing spot. On the Río Claromecó good spots are near the first and second waterfall.

•

Saltos de Piedra. Up river there are several waterfalls at 2.5 km, 10 km, 12 km, and 20 km where the water tumbles over volcanic rock. For hikers and anglers Faro: This 54 m lighthouse tower is located 3 km east of town in a semi-built-up area. Splendid views from the top after mounting 278 steps

GENERAL LAVALLE

General Lavalle Postal code: 7103 @ area code: (02252) Distance from Buenos Aires: 304 km south on RN 2, RP 63, and RP 11

G

eneral Lavalle is a small town located on the Ría de Ajó, a few kilometers inland from the Bahía Samborombón, just west of Cabo San Antonio. It is the destination of a section of the prestigious yachting event, the Campeonato 131

General Lavalle

PAMPA PROVINCES Crucero San Isidro (San Isidro Cruise Championship) which is held every year at Easter. The main attractions are the wide fertile plain of the pampa hinterland dotted with large estancias, the many lagunas with their wildlife, and water sports in the Bahía de Samborombón. Some of the lagunas are nature reserves. General Lavalle is also within easy reach of the seaside resorts south of Cabo San Antonio: San Clemente del Tuyú, 25 km east.

D Camping

When approaching town, note also the small waterways which have been regulated to reduce flooding of these low-lying areas and for irrigation. Included here is the nearby town of Dolores, 114 km west of General Lavalle, reached on RP 11 and RP 63; its facilities are described under the corresponding headings. Dolores was founded in 1818, but was destroyed by Indians in 1821 and later rebuilt. It is a grain-growing and cattle-farming center. Much of the area around town is subject to flooding during prolonged wet weather.

Camping on Laguna Salada Grande • Pesquero Chiozza, @ (02267) 420737; also bungalows, restaurant

E Eating out

• •

S Buses

The bus terminal is on B. Mitre. Costera Criolla, Antón, and Empresa Río de la Plata run 10 services daily from Dolores to Buenos Aires (4 hrs). • Bus companies: Río de la Plata, La Estrella, Rápido Argentino • Buenos Aires (4 hrs): 15 daily

a Sport

A Festivals •

•

Sport in Dolores • Golf: Aero Club Dolores, RN 2 @ (02245) 446171/446681

Fiesta Provincial de Santos Vega: March 6–9. This colorful festival is held in honor of one of the region’s local song-writers, Santos Vega. It is a gaucho festival with plenty of asados and displays of horsemanship Fiesta de la Corvina Negra: September/October, a fishing competition

p Sightseeing

•

B Tourist information •

Dirección de Turismo Municipal, B. Mitre 1168 @ 491006 fax 491144

•

C Accommodation •

Museo Histórico Regional Santos Vega (Santos Vega Historical Museum), Avenida Mitre near Costanera. In one room there is a replica of an authentic pulpería or gaucho tavern. The second room has natural science exhibits Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Merced was built in 1892

s Excursions

Hostería General Lavalle, B. Mitre 20, opposite the waterway; AEFG

On the watercourses there are several baths and marinas inviting water-skiing and boating. There are many islands in the bay which can also be visited such as Isla Vasco with good fishing spots. Lagunas abound also in the hinterland. Frequent buses commute to the nearby beach resorts of Las Toninas and Mar de Ajó; see pages 201 and 146.

Accommodation in Dolores • Hotel Argentina • Hotel Al Ver Veras, RN 2 KM 226 @ (02245) 443022 • Hotel Avenida, Olavarría 362 @ (02245)447619

General Lavalle

Restaurant Del Cruce, B. Mitre near RP 11 Restaurant J.M., B. Mitre 1165

132

BUENOS AIRES •

Reserva Natural Campos del Tuyú: See Exursions from San Clemente del Tuyú on page 203

GUAMINÍ

Guaminí Population: 4000 Postal code: 6435 @ area code: (02929) Altitude: 110 m Distance from Bahía Blanca: 197 km north on RN 33

G

uaminí is a summer resort located on Laguna del Monte, which has several islands. It is accessible by road and rail from Buenos Aires and Bahía Blanca. The heavy rains of 1985 have done considerable damage. Laguna del Monte on the outskirts of town does not support fish owing to its high salt content.

C Accommodation

S Buses

•

•

Hotel Rocanova, San Martín 499 @ 432254 • Hospedaje Turismo Guaminí, San Martín near Alem @ 432281 Accommodation on Laguna Cochico A Motel Cochico, 11 km from town. Reservations: Bahía Blanca @ (0291) 449648 LP

•

Bahía Blanca ($9.90; 4 hrs); Empresa Colón Buenos Aires (7 hrs); 3 daily; Liniers, T.A. Chevallier

a Sport

Fishing. Possible in Laguna Alsina RP 65 KM 463; Laguna de Cochico located 15 km north of town, access via RN 33 and RN 65

JUNÍN

Junín Population: 80 000 Postal code: 6000 @ area code: (02362) Altitude: 81 m Distance from Buenos Aires: 265 km west on RN 7

J

unín is located near Laguna de Gómez and Laguna Mar Chiquita (not to be confused with Mar Chiquita in Córdoba Province and Laguna Mar Chiquita north of Mar del Plata). Its origins go back to the Fuerte Federación built in 1828. The town is served by F.C. General Bartolomé Mitre railroad, and there are important rail workshops. It is an industrial town and the center of a rich agricultural region.

B Tourist information •

D Camping

•

Oficina de Turismo, R.S. Peña 145 @ 421023

133

Camping Club de Pescadores, Avenida Circunvalación, capacity:

Junín

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Junín Hotels ** ** * *

Copahue, Saavedra 80 Embajador, Pellegrini 43 Astor, Lavalle 15 Central, R.S. Peña 450

Hospedajes A A A A B

Avenida, Arias 33 El Sol, Almafuerte 59 León, 25 de Mayo 183 Plaza, R. de Escalada 41 El Descanso, Liliedal 125

AEFGJLPSUV AEFGJLPUV AELPV AELPV

@ @ @ @

423390 fax 422183/421433 424446 422796

$F $F $G $G

2 2 2 2

LP LP LP LP L

@ @ @ @ @

421101/426440 425521 426137 424526 fax 423022

$G $G $G $G $H

2 2 2 2 2

@

429735/429620

Accommodation Laguna de Gómez • Cabañas Laguna de Gómez

E Eating out

130 tents; AEFL, showers, toilets, electricity; fishing

AV E . JAV IER MUÑ

2

IZ COLÓN

LILIEDAL

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

J.NEWBERY

ESPAÑA

9 10

CABRERA

Hospedaje Plaza Hotel Embajador Hotel Central Hotel Copahue Hospedaje León

4 Eating out 4 6

L .N. ALEM

12

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

7 8 9 11 13

PRES. QUINTANA

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

GRAL PAZ

I

12

8

25 DE MAYO

Hospedaje El Sol Hospedaje El Descanso Hotel Astor Hospedaje Avenida

Junín

WINTER

AVE. R.S. PEÑA

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Oficina de Turismo

3 Accommodation 1 2 3 5

6 7

C. PELLEGRINI

Key to map A C I

4

H. YRIGOYEN

LÓPEZ Y PLANES

BELGRANO

R. ESCALADA DE SAN MARTÍN

NARB ONDO

M. LEBENSOHN

12 DE OCTUBRE

CNEL SUÁREZ

11

AVE. J.I. ARIAS

C. SAAVEDRA

AVE . J.B. ALBE RDI

AVE. RIVADAVIA

AVE. MITRE 5

ALMAFUERTE

ALSINA

20 DE SE PTIEMBRE

FRANCIA

ALVAREZ RODRÍGUEZ

JU N Í N

LAVALLE 3

Restaurant Andi, R.E.. de San Martín 3

GUIDO SPANO

ATALIVIA ROCA

MAYOR LÓPEZ

URQUIZA

1

MALVINAS ARGENTINAS

BRASIL

AVE. DR. BENITO DE MIGUEL

AVELLANEDA

R. VÁZQUE Z

AMEGHINO

ARENALES

•

Restaurant El Trébol Restaurant Andi

134

10 Restaurant Las Vías

9 Sights

12 Museo “Angel María de Rosa”

BUENOS AIRES •

Restaurant El Trébol, Malvinas Argentinas 20 Restaurant Las Vías, R.S.. Peña 450

Sport in Chacabuco Chacabuco is located 58 km east on RN 7; postal code 6740 • Chacabuco Golf Club, RN 7 KM 198 @ (02352) 427112

• Eating out on Circunvalación • Restaurant La Cabaña de Godoy, near Urquiza

p Sightseeing

•

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Rivadavia near Ave. San Martín. • El Rápido SRL @ 425544 • Expreso Jocolí @ 440740 ° Mendoza via Villa Mercedes and San Luis • Buenos Aires (5 hrs); 15 daily; Empresa Rojas, Empresa Liniers, T.A. Chevallier

s Excursions

•

•

U Motoring •

Museo “Angel María de Rosa”, R.S.. Peña 143; historic archive of the town with a coin collection, historical documents.

Service station: A.C.A., corner of C Saavedra and M Levenson

a Sport •

Junín Golf Club, RN 7 KM 267.5 @ (02362) 427561 Sport in Lincoln Located 56 km west on RN 188. • Lincoln Golf Club Pde Municipal General San Martín @ (02355) 422118/ 422365

L a g u n a M a r C h i q u i t a: 2 0 km north-west of town; 5400 ha (13 343 acres), maximum depth 3.50 m; Pejerrey fishing, boat hire Laguna de Gómez: 12km west; 3500 ha (8650 acres). Can be reached on a sealed road. There are restaurants and shops to cater for the 700 or so cabins built around the laguna. There is a municipal camping ground and Camping Club Náutico Junín. During summer regular microbus services to and from Junín. Fishing and aquatic sports

LA PLATA

La Plata Population: 525 000 Postal code: 1900 @ area code: (0221) Altitude: sea level Distance from Buenos Aires: 56 km south-east on RN 2

L

a Plata was founded in 1882 by Dr Dardo Rocha as the capital of Buenos Aires Province. It is located on the Río de la Plata (commonly known in English as the River Plate). Until Federation the capital of Buenos Aires Province was the city of Buenos Aires. When Buenos Aires became the federal capital, the province lost its seat of government, and it was decided to create a new provincial capital — La Plata. La Plata’s port is 9 km north of the town center. The climate of La Plata is temperate, with a mean annual temperature of 16°C (60°F). Rain is evenly distributed over the year with about 90 wet

days. The highest rainfall is during March–April and October. La Plata is a modern city, and its busy port is an important outlet for the products of the Pampa 135

La Plata

PAMPA PROVINCES Provinces. The Y.P.F. oil refinery is the city’s largest industrial complex, and is connected by a 72 km pipeline to Buenos Aires. In addition La Plata is an administrative and university center. The city was completely planned on the drawing board. The streets have no names, but bear numbers instead.

LA PLATA PASEO DEL BOSQUE 21

•

•

Fiesta de la Raza (Festival of the Race): October 12. This anniversary of Columbus’ landing in the Americas in 1492 is a fiesta which bonds all the Spanish-speaking countries of South America Foundation of the city: November 19

• •

24

23 77 AL

25

N O G IA D

26

Pizzerías • Allora, Calle 5 near 40 • La Trattoria, Calle 10 near 47 • Pizzalino, Calle 8 between 50 and 51 • Casablanca, Calle 9 between 51 and 53 Restaurants • Abruzzese, Calle 42 (between Calle 4 and Calle 5) • Ambassador, Calle 50 between Calle 11 and Calle 12 • Bambino, Calle 7 between Calle 40 and Calle 41

B Tourist information •

AVENIDA 52

JOINS MAP LA PLATA CENTRO

A Festivals

21

Subsecretaría de Turismo, Calle 12 near 53 Piso 13 @ 4836357 fax 4254576 Oficina de Turismo Municipal, Calle 47–740 @ 4258334 La Plata Web site: www.guialaplata. com

E Eating out Fast food • McDonalds, Calle 47 between 7 and 8

C Accommodation in La Plata Hotels **** *** *** *** *** *** * ** *

Corregidor, Calle 6–1026 between Calle 53 and Calle 54 @ 4256800 Fax 4256805 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Acuarius, Calle 3 between 46 and 47 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4214229 Cristal, Calle 1–620 between Calle 44 and Calle 45 Fax 4245640 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4241043 Del Rey, Calle 13 near 44 Plaza Paso ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4241703 Fax 4270177 La Plata, Calle 51–783 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4229090 fax San Marcos, Calle 54–523 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4222249 Open from December–March Saint James, Calle 60–377 AELPV @ 4218089 Diamante, Calle 41–565 AEFGJLPUV @ 4242633 Roga, Calle 54–334 between Calle 1 and Calle 2 AELPSV @ 4219553

Hospedajes

A García, Calle 2–525 A Roca, Calle 2–309

La Plata

LP LP

136

@

4214916

$D

2

$F

2

$F $F

2 2

$F $E

2 2

$H $F

2 2

$F

2

$H

1

BUENOS AIRES S Buses from La Plata

The bus terminal is on Calle 4 between Calle 41 and Calle 42, two blocks from the rail station. Bus companies • Costera Criolla runs daily services to Miramar, Necochea, and Tandil • El Pampa S.A. ° Bahía Blanca via Tres Arroyos, Necochea, Miramar, Mar del Plata, and Villa Gesell ° Tandil via Lobería, Necochea, Juárez, and La Calera • El Rápido Argentino ° Necochea via Chascomús, General Belgrano, Balcarce, and Miramar ° Villa Gesell via San Clemente del Tuyú, Mar de Ajó, Pinamar, and Ostende • Empresa Argentina @ 4821839 • Empresa El Tala runs services to Corrientes and Formosa • Empresa Liniers ° Carhué ($28.00; 73 4 hrs); 1 service daily 21:50; return 21:45 • Expreso Córdoba–Mar del Plata runs daily services to Córdoba and La Rioja • La Estrella, local 5 @ 4232745 runs 4 daily services to Olavarría, Sierra de La Ventana, and Bahía Blanca • La Internacional @ 4232745 • Río de la Plata runs daily services to Villa Gesell and Pinamar • Río Paraná ° Carmen de Patagones via Tandil, Juárez, Tres Arroyos, Coronel Dorrego, Punta Alta, and Bahía Blanca • T.A.C. runs 3 services weekly to San Luis, Mendoza and to Puerto Madryn, and Trelew • Via Bariloche, locaL 2 @ 4229601 Long-distance services

• • • • • • • • •

• • • •

Destination Bariloche Buenos Aires Córdoba Mar del Plata

Fares $73.00 $2.00

Services 1 daily 24 daily

$18.00

6 daily

• • • •

Rosario $22.00 Santiago del Estero Termas de Río Hondo Viedma

4 daily 2 daily

Duration Company T.A.C. 11 2 hrs Río de La Plata General Urquiza 5 hrs Costera Criolla, El Rápido Argentino, La Estrellal 6 hrs Central Argentino, Esap Central Argentino, La Unión La Unión Transporte Mansilla

•

Centro Andaluz, Calle 45 between 11 and 12. Spanish cuisine Chino, Calle 7 between 46 and 47 Club Español, Calle 6–1038. Spanish cuisine El Quijote, Calle 13 on Plaza Paso La Aguada, Calle 50 between Calle 7 and Calle 8 La Estancia, Calle 6 near Calle 45 La Parrilla, Calle 51 between Calle 8 and Calle 9 La Plata, Calle 10 near Diagonal 74 Pedro Benoit, Centenario near 512. Italian cuisine

Teutonia, Calle 9 between Calle 47 and Calle 48 Cafeterías • El Ayuntamiento, Calle 1 between 46 and 47 • El Modelo, Calle 5 near 54 • Mapuches, Camino Centenario near 508

n Entertainment

• •

137

Disco Macondo, Calle 45 between Calle 8 and Calle 9 Disco Metropolis, corner of Calle 47 and Diagonal 74

La Plata

PAMPA PROVINCES To Buenos Aires 1

LA PLATA CENTRO

CALLE 39

CALL3

2

D IA

CALLE 41

G

AVENIDA 7

C ALLE 11

CALLE 12

CALLE 13

CALLE 14

O N AL 77

CALLE 42

AVENIDA 1

CALLE 2

CALLE 4

CALLE 5

CALLE 6

CALLE 8

CALLE 9

CALLE 10

CALLE 40

1

3

CALLE 43 4

N

Plaza Paso

Plaza Italia

AVENIDA 44 6

5

O

N

A

L

74

CALLE 45

IA

G

CALLE 46

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$

CALLE 47 N

A

L

80

E

I

7

D

IA

G

O

CALLE 48 CALLE 49 9 8

10

CALLE 50

215 AVENIDA 51 Plaza Martín

C

D

San

Plaza Rivadavia

B 12

AVENIDA 53 14 15

13

16 18

CALLE 54 17

78

CALLE 55

AL N O

CALLE 56

DI

AG

CALLE 57 D IA O

D

G A

G

N

IA

CALLE 58

JOINS MAP PASEO DEL BOSQUE

A

Plaza Moreno

Paseo del Bosque

To Mar del Plata

11

O

L

N A

73

L 79

CALLE 59

Plaza Rocha

AVENIDA 60

To Berisso

19

Plaza Maximo Paz

To Magdalena

• •

I Post and telegraph

Teatro del Bosque, Avenida 1 between Calle 60 and Calle 61 Teatro Opera, Calle 58 between Calle 10 and Calle 11

La Plata

• •

138

Post office: Correo Argentino Calle 4 near 51 Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, Calle 47 between 7 and 8

BUENOS AIRES Key to map A B C D E I $ T

Catedral Gobernación Provincial (Government) Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica Argentina Oficina de Turismo Municipal Banco de la Provincia Bus Terminal

3 Accommodation 1 2 4 6 11 14

Hospedaje Roca Hotel Diamante Hospedaje García Hotel Cristal Hotel La Plata Hotel Corregidor

4 Eating out 5 7 15 17 22

Restaurant El Quijote Pizzería La Trattoria Club Español Cafetería Modelo Club Hípico

5 Entertainment

20 Teatro Martín Fierro 26 Teatro del Bosque

9

•

•

Banco de la Provincia, Ave. 7 block 700 near Calle 46. ATM

•

Service station: Shell, Calle 7 near 46 A1 Rent a Car, Calle 9 near 51 (A.C.A.) @ 4232569, fax 4232572 Localiza Rent a Car, Plaza Paso N-92 (Ave 13 & 14) @ 4831145

T Trains

The F C General Roca station, Estación La Plata, is on the corner of Calle 1 and Calle 41. There are at least 10 trains daily between La Plata and Buenos Aires.

•

a Sport

•

Sport in City Bell City Bell is located 10 km west of La Plata. Postal code: 1876. • Club A. Estudiantes de La Plata Country Club, Calle 11 near Calle 35 @ (0221) 4802137 • Club Hípico y de Golf City Bell, Labougle near Calle 10 @ (0221) 4800167

•

p Sightseeing • •

0 Services 3

F.C. General Roca rail sta-

Localiza Rent a Car

U Motoring • •

8 Museo Dardo Rocha 10 Archivo Histórico de la Provincia 12 Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes 21 Observatorio Astronómico 23 Jardín Zoológico 24 Museo de Sciencias Naturales 25 Jardín del Paz

7 Tour operators and car 13 tion Subsecretaría de Turismo rental

L Finance •

9 Sights

16 Hotel San Marcos 18 Hotel Roga 19 Hotel Saint James

•

Paseo del Bosque. Part of the Estancia Iraola; most of the trees were planted last century Teatro Martin Fierro, Paseo del Bosque. There are open-air performances of ballet and opera on the island in the center of the artificial lake during summer

•

139

Jardín Zoólogico (Zoo), Paseo del Bosque Museo de Ciencias Naturales (Museum of Natural Sciences), Paseo del Bosque. The collection of extinct animals is one of the most complete in the world, and is most interesting. The 22 halls open to the public display zoological, botanical, ethnological, archeological, geological, and mineralogical exhibits, including mummies, prehistoric implements, and human skulls. Open daily 10:00–19:00 Observatorio Astronómico (Astronomical Observatory), Paseo del Bosque; built in 1884 Jardín de la Paz (Garden of Peace), Paseo del Bosque. All the countries in the world are represented by their national flower. During the Fiesta de la Raza, national flags are raised in the garden Plaza Moreno, intersected by Diagonal 73 and Diagonal 74, is the city’s geographical center. It has many trees and four fountains. In the center of the park is a small structure depicting the spot where the city’s foundation stone was laid The Municipalidad (Town Hall), built in 1886 by the German Hubert Stier, and the uncompleted cathedral are in the Plaza Moreno. Concerts are held in the Municipalidad’s Salón Dorado (“Golden Hall”) Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes (Provincial Fine Arts Museum), Calle

La Plata

PAMPA PROVINCES •

•

53–525. On exhibit are paintings and works of art of Argentine artists of the nineteenth and twentieth century Archivo Histórico de la Provincia (Provincial Historical Archives), Pasaje Dardo Rocha. Photographs and paintings of founders of provincial towns or cities from the seventeenth, eighteenth, and nineteenth centuries Museo Dardo Rocha, Calle 50–933 (between Calle 13 and Calle 14), home of the city’s founder, built in 1885. On exhibit are furniture, documents relating to the foundation of La Plata and a map section

•

s Excursions •

•

•

Isla Paulina: 9 km. A regular launch service runs to the beaches on the island Reserva Natural Punta Lara: 14 km north on RP 13. A 20 km beach with many trees on the Río de la Plata. The

road there is the continuation of Diagonal 74. The approximately 30 ha (74 acre) nature reserve is the southernmost gallery forest normally only encountered further north. The vegetation is subtropical: Large trees with dense foliage retain the moisture in the air and in the ground permitting a variety of plants to grow in the shaded, moist area like fern trees. There is a park ranger there and tours are conducted Ensenada: 18 km north on RP 13, continuing on the Costanera from Punta Lara. Some of the walls have been preserved of the Museo Fuerte de Barragan, founded in 1781. There is also a naval museum República de los Niños (Children’s Republic), located in the suburb of Manuel B Gonnet. Miniature houses and miniature trains, an artificial lake, and an aquarium are attractions for young and old

LOBOS

Lobos Population: 30 000 Postal code: 7240 @ area code: (02227) Altitude: 29 m Distances • From Buenos Aires 98 km south on RN 205 • From La Plata 120 km south-west on RP 6 and RN 205

L

obos is located in the pampa near Laguna de Lobos. Its origins go back to Fuerte Lobos, a fort founded in 1779 by order of the then viceroy Vértiz. The actual foundation of the township took place in 1803. Lobos is the birthplace of former President Juan Domingo Perón. Calle Buenos Aires is the main street in Lobos. On either side of Buenos Aires streets intersecting it change their name and block numbers start from zero. Lobos was an important colonial town on the camino real. Many colonial buildings with large patios have been preserved. Take a stroll through Calles Chacabuco and Cardoner; the Pulpería de Azcaray

Lobos

is a colonial gaucho tavern still in existence.

A Festivals

• •

Fiesta del Pescador Deportivo (Sport fishermen’s festival) in January Aniversario de la Fundación: June 2

B Tourist information

•

140

Dirección de Turismo, Salgado 40 @ 431450, fax 431455. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–14:00 and Sat/Sun 10:00–16:00

BUENOS AIRES C Accommodation in Lobos Hotels

@

430163/65

$F

2

@

494233

$G

2

KLPS LP

@ @ @

421465 421560 421939

$G $H

2 2

AEFGJLPSUV

@

430180

$F

2

Central Park, Junín 77 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY • Class Hotel, Belgrano near Almafuerte • Dana, Ave. Circunvalación near RN 205

***

Hosterías *

El Pescador II, Avenida Costanera near Calle 38 AELPV

Hospedajes

A 9 de Julio, 9 de Julio 241 A Petit Hotel, Arturo Cardoner 45 • Los Pallotinos, Empalme Lobos

Accommodation on RP 41 Hotels **

Lobos Country Club, RP 41 KM 172

Accommodation on RN 205 north • La Candelaria, KM 114.5

•

•

Web site: www.lobosweb.com.ar

D Camping •

•

Camping Los Lobos, A.C.A. located on Laguna de Lobos; capacity 350 tents, 10 ha (25 acre). ADFL, showers, toilets, electricity. Wooded areas

I Post and Telegraph

• •

E Eating out

Post office: Lamadrid Telephone: 25 de Mayo 63

S Buses

Restaurants • Club Salgado, Suipacha 355 • El Candil, Yrigoyen near RN 205 & • La Casa de Mi Abuela, Salgado 4 near Las Heras • La Casona, Moreno 560 • La Marina, Buenos Aires 1–775 • La Rosada, Sarmiento 277 near Mitre • Los Vasquitos, Buenos Aires 2 near Balcarce • Los Viejos Paraisos, Castelli 53

The bus terminal is on Avenida Alem between Hiriart and 9 de Julio. Empresa Liniers @ 421483 has its terminal on Avenida L.N. Alem 190 near the train station. Bus companies ° Lobos Bus @ 431346; El Cahrret @ 422433; Jony Bus @ 421996; La Amistad @ 431161; La Buena @ 422340, Nuevo Senda @ 430178 Destinations ° Buenos Aires, Once station; 10 daily; Línea 88 ° Buenos Aires, Retiro station (2 hrs); 17 daily ° Laguna de Lobos; 9 daily; Micro Local

Cafeterías • La Familia, Buenos Aires 102 • La Marina, Buenos Aires 202 Pizzerías • A.B.C., Belgrano 102 & • El Escritorio, 9 de Julio 51 • El León, Rivadavia 102 near 9 de Julio • La Farola, Cardoner 202

T Trains

Restaurants

The train station is on Avenida L.N. Alem 106. Lobos is served by a private line operating between Merlo and Lobos. Change at Merlo some 65 km north to the D.F. Sarmiento line which brings you to

n Entertainment •

Disco Au Brazil, Cardoner between 9 de Julio and Hiriart Disco Tío Coco, Suipacha 53 near Buenos Aires.

Amanecer Bailable, Cardoner near Olavarrieta. Dancing

141

Lobos

PAMPA PROVINCES To Buenos Aires

MARMOL

N. AREVALO

H

SALGADO ESTE

BALCARCE

AMEGHINO

11

F. MASTROPIETRO

10

8

AZCARATE

ALBERTINI

SAN MARTIN

LAS HERAS

ALSINA

RATTI

SALGADO OESTE 12

9 DE JULIO

T

F.J. DIAZ

Plaza 1810

7

AVE. CARDONER

25 DE MAYO

6

5

E

NECOCHEA

MITRE

MORENO

9

CASTELLI

ESTRADA

P. GOYENA

3

HIRIART

SARMIENTO

4

AYACUCHO

SUIPACHA

2

ALBERDI

1

Plaza Italia

AVENIDA LEANDRO N. ALEM

RAUCH

BUENOS AIRES

ALMAFUERTE

CHACABUCO 205

RIVADAVIA

BELGRANO

LOMBARDO

13

N J.PINEYRO Plaza Tucumán

O. PINEYRO 205

VILLANUEVA

LOBOS

A. BERRO 41

To Olavarria

Key to map C D E H I T

Municipalidad (Town hall) Post Office & Telex Telephone Hospital Dirección de Turismo Bus terminal

3 Accommodation

7 Hospedaje 9 de Julio 11 Hospedaje Petit Hotel 12 Hotel Central Park

To San Miguel del Monte

4 Eating out 1 2 3 5 6 9

Club Salgado Pizzería La Farola Pizzería A.B.C. Pizzería El Escritorio Pizzería El León Restaurant Los Viejos Paraisos 13 Restaurant La Rosada 4

9 Sights

14 Casa Natal of J.D. Perón

0 Services 8

Train station

Disco Tío Coco

• •

a Sport

Fishing: Laguna de Lobos, is a center for fishing enthusiasts. The Club de Pesca has a club house with restaurant

Lobos

10 Burbridge Travel

5 Entertainment

Estación Once in Buenos Aires. There are 8 daily services to Merlo on weekdays and 5 services on Sundays and holidays. •

7 Tour operators and car rental

142

Golf: Aero Club Fortín Lobos, RN 205 KM 106 @ (02227) 421700. Also swimming pool Polo: There are three polo clubs in the district and several championships are organized locally

BUENOS AIRES s Excursions

Sport in Navarro • Navarro Golf Club, 30 km north-west on RP 41 @ 45814777/45832014

•

p Sightseeing •

• •

Capilla Nuestra Señora del Carmen was built in 1803. Built in gothic style it consists of three naves. The altar is made of Carrara marble and onyx, the cross on top of the altar comes from a Jesuit mission Finca Histórica, in 25 de Mayo is one of the oldest buildings in the region. Museo y Biblioteca “Juan Domingo Perón”, Presidente J.D. Perón 482. This is the birthplace of the former President and military leader. The house has been restored and on exhibit are memorabilia of one of the most colorful leaders of Argentina. Open Wed and Sun 10:00–12:00 and 15:00–18:00

•

Laguna de Lobos: 10 km south. The laguna covers 865 ha (2137 acres) and is 1.6–1.9 m deep, depending on the rainfall. The east side of the lake has been subdivided and consists of a colony of vacation cabins, and near the water several major clubs have camping areas. The nort- eastern sector is reserved for speed boats. On the western side of the laguna is Estancia El Palacio, a cattle station with a private museum concentrating on the life of the gaucho. The estancia with the museum is open to tourists Estancia La Candelaria, RN 205 KM 115 @4 94132. This is a polo ranch offering accommodation in a mansion reminiscent of a French castle in the Loire valley. Besides polo it has a swimming pool, tennis courts and is only 10 km away from the Lobos Golf course

LUJÁN

Luján Population: 75 000 Postal code: 6700 @ area code: (02323) Altitude: sea level Distance from Buenos Aires: 70 km east on RN 7

L

uján is located on the Río Luján. It is the major Catholic shrine in Argentina, and a place of worship for many pilgrims all year round, not only from Argentina but also from Uruguay, Paraguay, and Chile. The shrine’s origin goes back to 1630, when an image of the Virgin Mary was carried around the district from church to church in an ox cart. At the spot where the church now stands the cart became stuck, and this was seen as a sign that the Virgin wanted to remain on this spot. The first building on the site was only a small chapel, but now a magnificent neo-Gothic basilica has been built and the Virgin has found her place on the high altar. The individual arches and two of the transepts are dedicated to the Argentine Provinces and to Uruguay and Paraguay, the countries linked to Argentina by special bonds. Included here is the small town of Mercedes located 30 km south-west at the intersection of RN 5 and RP 41. It is a golf and polo center. Empresa

Liniers has 8 services daily to Buenos Aires (3 hrs).

A Festivals

•

143

Fiesta de la Virgen de Luján: May 8

Luján

PAMPA PROVINCES Key to map A C D E I $ T

Basilica Nuestra Señora de Luján Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Dirección de Turismo Money exchange Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 2 4 6 9 11 12

•

Hospedaje Santa Rita Hospedaje Biarritz Hostería City Hotel Hotel Real Luján Hospedaje Brown Hotel Catedral

13 14 17 21 22 23 25

26 27 28 29

4 Eating out 3 5 7 8

Restaurant El Mejor Restaurant Rancho X Restaurant Los Quinchos Restaurant El Negrito de la Virgen 15 Restaurant El Cabildo 16 Restaurant San Martín

• • • • • • • • • •

Horse pilgrimage: last Sunday in September

B Tourist information •

18 19 20 24

Hotel de la Paz Hotel Eros Hotel Los Monjes Hospedaje Carena Hotel Victoria Hospedaje Royal Hotel Centro

Dirección de Turismo, Edificio La Cúpula, opposite Parque Florentino Ameghino @ 420453

E Eating out Restaurants • Alfil, San Martín 464 • Bristol II, Liniers 100 • Colón, Colón 1013 • Cristóbal, Colón 964 • Don Antonio, San Martín 383 • El Cabildo, San Martín 183

1

Restaurant Los Gallegos Restaurant El Trébol Restaurant El Moderno Restaurant Trattoria de YiYo Restaurant Don Antonio Restaurant Colón Restaurant Alfil Restaurant Cristóbal

Sights

Complejo Museografico Enrique Udaondo 10 Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes “Fernán Félix de Amador”

El Mejor, Lezica y Torrezuri 799 El Moderno, 9 de Julio 950 El Negrito de la Virgen, San Martín 9 El Trébol, 9 de Julio 990 Los Gallegos, San Martín 128 Los Quinchos, Mitre 25 Prestige, San Martín 135 Rancho X, Lezica y Torrezuri 659 San Martín, San Martín 191 Trattoria de YiYo, 9 de Julio 612

n Entertainment

•

Cine Teatro Luján, Padre Salvaire near San Martín

C Accommodation in Luján

During religious celebrations, such as Easter, accommodation is scarce and prices tend to rise. Hotels *** ** ** * * * *

Hosterías *

City Hotel, Lezica y Torrezuri 631

Hospedajes A A A A A B

Luján

@ @ @ @ @ @ @

420606 430670 420054/55 420667 424034 421658 420528

$E $F

2 2

$F $F

2 2

AELPV

@

421546

$H

2

LPS LP LP LPS

@ @ @ @

421230 420623 421287 421295

$F

2

$F

2

@

420981

Los Monjes, Francia 981 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Catedral, 9 de Julio 1074 AEFGJLPSUV Real Luján, Ave. Nuestra Sra. de Luján 816 Centro, Francia 1062 AELPV De la Paz, 9 de Julio 1054 ADEFLPV Eros, San Martín 135 AF Victoria, Lavalle 136

Biarritz, Lezica y Torrezuri 717 Brown, Almirante Brown 10 Carena, Lavalle 114 Royal, 9 de Julio 696 Venecia, Almte Brown 100 Santa Rita, Lezica y Torrezuri 857

144

BUENOS AIRES To Buenos Aires

JÁN

LU RÍO

Parque Ameghino

5

I

6

4

3 2

RREZURI

1 9

AIRE PADRE SALV A

10

8

9 DE JULIO

22

17

ALTE BROWN

21

25 DE MAYO

19 20 18

LAVALLE

SAN MATÍN

MITRE

14 12 13 15 16

T

ÁN NUESTRA SRA DE LUJ

Parque Plaza Belgrano Belgrano

7

11

CERVANTES

LEZICA Y TO

23

24

FRANCIA

25

RIVADAVIA

26

ITALIA

28 27

E

COLÓN

29

C

LUJÁN

MARIANO MORENO

I Post and telegraph • •

line to get to Once station in Buenos Aires

Post Office: Correo Argentino, B. Mitre 575 Telephone: Telecom, Colón 911

a Sport

•

Golf: Club C. de G. Praderas de Luján Ruta 192 KM 6.5 @ (02323) 496209/12 Polo ranches • Estancia Los Patricios. This polo ranch is located 15 km from town on RN 8. There are three polo fields and expert teaching staff. For further information contact Cigale Viajes y Turismo, Avenida Córdoba 369

U Motoring • •

Service station: A.C.A., RN 7 KM 62 A1 Rent a Car, 25 de Mayo 540 @ 428465

T Trains •

Buenos Aires: 2 hrs. Change at Moreno to the F C General Sarmiento

145

Luján

PAMPA PROVINCES S Buses from Luján

The bus terminal is on Avenida Nuestra Señora de Luján 600. Bus companies Transportes Automotores Luján, Expreso Liniers, La Estrella, Empresa Argentina, Empresa Atlántida, Transportes Automotores La Plata, Empresa La Isleña, Empresa San José S.R.L., and Expreso Paraná. Long-distance services • •

Destination Fares Services Buenos Aires (Once Station) $4.40 8 daily

• •

Buenos Aires (Palermo) $4.40 Córdoba $36.00 Mar del Plata $30.00

• • • • • •

Mendoza Pinamar Rosario San Juan San Rafael Villa Gesell

Duration

2 hrs Talsa, Transporte Automotores Luján Empresa Atlántida General Urquiza Empresa Atlántida, Empresa Argentina La Estrella–La Puntual Empresa Atlántida General Urquiza La Estrella–La Puntual La Estrella–La Puntual Empresa Atlántida

3 daily

$48.00 $14.00 $51.00 $48.00

@ (011) 43226023 fax (011)43226683 (1054) Buenos Aires • Estancia Los Tala, 19 km south of town on RP 47 to Navarro. The main building dates from 1824. This is a polo ranch-cum-museum and can be visited with a tour operator. The library has 40 000 volumes including the archives of Juan Bautista Alberdi and contemporary furniture. Barbecues are held accompanied by guitar music Sport in Mercedes Mercedes is located 30 km south-west on RN 5. Postal code: 6600 • Golf: Golf Club Mercedes, RN 5 KM 104.5 @ (02324) 426675/423053

•

•

p Sightseeing •

Company

millions of pilgrims every year, not only from Argentina but also from Uruguay and Paraguay Complejo Museografico Enrique Udaondo (Enrique Udaondo Museographical Museum Complex), Juan de Lezica y Torrezuri 917. The exhibit is in three different locations on a 1 ha (3 acre) block: the old Cabildo, Casa del Virrey and the Museo de Transporte. A good display and overview of the historical and political development of Argentina. Open Sat, Sun 14:45–17:30 Other museums: Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes “Fernán Félix de Amador, 9 de Julio 863; Museo Devocional, Padre Salvaire near Mitre

Basilica Nuestra Señora de Luján (Our Lady of Luján Basilica). Attracts

MAR DE AJÓ

Mar de Ajó Population: 11 000 Postal code: 7109 @ area code:(02257) Distance from Buenos Aires: 370 km south-east on RN 2 and RP 11 Mar de Ajó

146

BUENOS AIRES

F

irst mentioned in the days of the Caudillo Manuel de Rosas, its beginning as a seaside resort stems from 1964. Mar de Ajó is one of the cheaper seaside resorts on the Atlantic coast. Its eleven extensive beaches are 80 m wide and have shallow waters. The constant sea breeze keeps the dunes moving along the

C Accommodation in Mar de Ajó Hotels *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

• • • • • •

Amancay, Blanco Encalada 301 AEFGJLPUV Araucano, Costanera Norte 680 Casablanca, Melón Gil 56 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Hostería Mar de Ajó, Avenida Costanera 205 AEFGJKLPTUVY Latinoamericano, Avenida Costanera 27 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Silvio, Avenida Costanera 1212 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Via Marina, Avenida Costanera 1434 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Alba, Melón Gil 85 AEFGJLPUV Fritzy, H. Yrigoyen near Montevideo AEFGJLPUV Marcela (Flamingo), Avenida Costanera 343 AEFPU Regina, M. Lebensohn 290 AEFGJLPUV San Rafael, J. Newbery 173 AEFGJLPUV Venezia, J. Newbery 27 AEFGJLPUV Acuario, Corrientes 41 AELPV Adriger, Avenida Libertador 634 AELPV América, F. de las Carreras 56 AELPV Bahía, Avellaneda 526 AELPV Bari, F. de las Carreras 513 AELPV Cervantes, Avenida Libertador 56 AELPV Compostela, Avenida Libertador 345 AELPV Dali–Coon, J. Newbery 36 AELPV Dorin’s, Avenida Libertador 166 AELPV El Pescador, Avenida Costanera 770 AELPV Galicia, Manuel Rico 177 AELPV Gran Bacu, H. Yrigoyen 597 AELPV Pipach, San Juan 34 AELPV Tupe, Lebensohn 248 ALPV Hotel Los Cerillos, Montevideo 650 Hotel Munich, Fco de las Carreras 555 Hotel Olimpo, Libres del Sur 46 Hotel Pino, Azopardo 266 Hotel Shelter, Quinteros 173 Hotel Sol, Avellaneda 1’20

Hospedajes A A A A A A A A A B

Albatros 2, Brown near Fco de las Carreras LP Arco Iris, San Luis 47 LP Costanera, Avenida Costanera 15 LP Dunamar, Belgrano 1263 LP El Muelle, J. Newbery 721 LP Frente Al Mar, Avenida Costanera 267 LP Marisol, Castelli 22 LP Patri, J. Newbery 995 LP Punta del Este, Montevideo 470 LP Solimar, Fco de las Carreras 1154 L

147

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420142 420103 421175

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420254 420006 421558 420407 420146 420168 420249/421641 420164/420197 420240 420797 420220 420014 420224 420187 420779 420018 420091 420105 420017 420095/420275 420223 420411 420189/420176 420253 420110 420206 420100 420164 421183

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420256 420615 420232 421469 420144 420129 420989 420572 420136 420463

Mar de Ajó

PAMPA PROVINCES To Villa Gesell and Pinamar

SGO DEL ESTERO

CASTELLI 3 2

I

4

AVE. MITRE

J. MARMOL C

5

QUINTEROS AG DI

12

10 11

14

E

A ON

F. DE LAS CARRERAS

L 18

17

T

A 21

20

22

$ 25 26

ESPORA

A

AZOPARDO

H.YRIGOYEN

BOUCHARD

19

27

23

28 29

LA RIOJA 15

SAN JUAN

MELON GIL 24

NEWBERY

AVELLANEDA

LEBENSOHN

MONTEVIDEO

BLANCO ENCALADA

VI DA VA RI

16

J. ROSAS

9

8

CATAMARCA

A AVE. COSTANER

N Playa Playa

Playa

MAR ARGENTINO

MAR DE AJÓ

Key to map A B C D E I $ T

Parroquía Santa Margarita Gobernación Provincial (Government) Municipalidad (Town hall) Post Office & Telex (Encotesa) Telefónica Argentina Oficina de Turismo Banco de la Provincia (ATM) Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 2 3 4

Hotel Los Cerillos Hospedaje Marisol Hotel Adriger

Mar de Ajó

5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 15 18 19 20 21 23 24 26

Hotel Bahía Hospedaje Punta del Este Hotel Pino Hotel Shelter Hotel Olimpo Hotel Munich Hotel Bari Hotel Amancay Hotel Compostela Hotel América Hotel Gran Bacu Hotel Regina Hotel Tupe Hotel Dorin’s Hotel Sol Hotel El Trébol

148

29 Hotel Cervantes

4 Eating out 14 16 17 28 30

Restaurant El Alamo Restaurant Don Valentín Restaurant El Colonial Restaurant Don Sancho Restaurant Don Tato

5 Entertainment 22 Bingo 25 Cine Rex 27 Cine Playa

To Santa Teresita and San Bernardo

7 6

AVE. LIBERTADOR GENERAL SAN MARTÍN

LIBRES DEL SUR

BUENOS AIRES beaches. To the south are new beach resort developments: Nueva Atlantis, Costa Esmeralda and Pinar del Sol. Twenty-four km south is Punta Médanos which is in its natural state. Here small four-wheel drive vehicles with wide tyres are necessary to drive over and along the large and steep dunes. Nearby is a lighthouse tower. Shopping in Mar de Ajó is concentrated on Avenida San Martín between Hipólito Yrigoyen and Santiago del Estero. Hipólito Yrigoyen is a pedestrian mall between Avenida San Martín and Diagonal Rivadavia.

Pizzerías • Oásis, F de las Carreras near Avenida del Libertador • San José, H. Yrigoyen near Rivadavia

n Entertainment

• • • •

B Tourist information •

Oficina de Turismo, Avenida Libertador San Martín near Manuel Rico @ 420139

Bingo, H. Yrigoyen 171 Disco De Dix, Ave. Del Libertador 801 Pub La Tasca, H. Yrigoyen 64 Pub El Funcional, H. Yrigoyen 66

I Post and telegraph

• •

D Camping

Charges are $J per person per site. • Camping General Lavalle, Pueyrredón near Francisco de las Carreras @ 420104 • Camping El Muelle, Córdoba near Catamarca @ 420158 • Camping Los Alamos, Olmos near Argentina @ 420156

Post office: Encotesa, Espora 55 Telephones: Telefónica Argentina, F. de las Carreras 73

L Financial

•

Banco de la Provincia, H. Yrigoyen 303 @ 420121. ATM

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Avenida Pueyrredón between Ascasubi and P. Palacios. • El Rápido Argentino has daily services to La Plata.

E Eating out

Meals range in cost from $Z to $Y. Cafeterías • El Funcional, H. Yrigoyen 64 • El Quijote, Fco de las Carreras 56 Restaurants • Don Tato, Avenida del Libertador and Costanera. Parilla • Don Sancho, Libertador 80 between B. de Irigoyen and Costanera • Don Valentín, Fco de las Carreras 176 • El Alamo, Quinteros 36 • El Colonial, Lebensohn 133 • El Molino, Jorge Newbery 74 between Avellaneda and Libertador • La Cantina Italiana, Avenida Libertador near Quinteros

a Sport

Fishing is possible in the Laguna Grande some 30 km east. • Club de Pesca y Náutica Mar de Ajó, Avenida Costanera near Lavalle @ 421227

s Excursions Tour operators • Turismo Playa, Fco. de Las Carrera near Bouchardo @ 20202

149

Mar de Ajó

PAMPA PROVINCES

MAR DEL PLATA

Mar del Plata Population: 520 000 Postal code: 7600 @ area code: (0223) Distance from Buenos Aires: 407 km south on RN 2

ar del Plata (or “Mardel” for short) is Argentina’s largest seaside resort—it may well be called South America’s summer playground.

Mar del Plata was founded in 1874 by Peralta Ramos, and since 1917 it is also a port; indeed it has Argentina’s largest fishing fleet. It is a modern city with wide avenues and spacious parks and plazas. Between late December and mid-March it is very crowded but fairly quiet for the rest of the year. The beach near Mar del Plata extends for 17 km and sandy stretches alternate with rocky parts. During the summer holidays the Buenos Aires opera has performances here. Indeed Mar del Plata is a very cultured city, and many social events and theatrical performances take place during the holiday season. All major hotels have casinos. The surrounding area is also dotted with places of interest which can be visited with a tour operator. Golf and tennis and aquatic clubs with their excellent sport and restaurant facilities welcome visitors. Mardel’s climate is similar to that of Sydney, Australia: the driest months are June, July and August, with March the wettest month; however there are rainy periods throughout the year. Temperatures rarely reach freezing point, the coolest months being June, July, and August with temperatures ranging between 8°C and 15°C (45–60°F). The hottest months are December, January, and February with

Mar del Plata

temperatures ranging between 20°C and 30°C (65–85°F). Mardel’s hinterland is flat country with large estancias Parque Camet

2

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Punta Mogotes

11

MAR PLATA Los DEL Acantilados METROPOLITANA

150

BUENOS AIRES C Accommodation in Mar del Plata

Accommodation is more expensive close to the seaside. Bulevar Peralto Ramos is also called Bulevar Marítimo. Accommodation in center north See map on page 150. Hotels **** **** **** **** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** **

Astor, Entre Ríos 1649 ADEHP Gran Dorá, Buenos Aires 1841 ADEFP$U Gran Iruña, Alberdi 2270 ADEFP$ Fax 4911183 Versailles, Pedro Luro 2426 ADEHP Brunetti, La Rioja 1250 ADEFHP$ Corbel, Córdoba 1870 AEPTU Dión, Santa Fe 1634 AEHPT Gran Hotel Manila, Ave. Luro 2286 ADEHP Gran Hotel Provincial, Marítimo 2300ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Guerrero, J.B. Alberdi 2288 ADHPU Lincoln, Mitre 1459 AEHPU Manila I, Entre Ríos 1648 ADEHP Mustang, 11 de Septiembre 2760 ASPU Presidente, Corrientes 1516 AEFHP Prince, Santiago del Estero 1649 ADFHP Reina’s, Catamarca 1154 ADHPU Rivoli, Pedro Luro 2260 ADEHP Sennac, La Rioja 1339 ADEHP Skorpios, 3 de Febrero 3071 AEHPU Traful, H. Yrigoyen 1190 ADEHP Valles, Pedro Luro 2487 ADEPU Venezia, Ave. Independencia 1026 ADFHPU Adriático, 11 de Septiembre 2752 AEFP Almte Brown, 9 de Julio 2381 ADEFHP Armida, Balcarce 2867 ADEPU Atlántico, Ave. Libertad 2990 ADEFPU Bastit, La Rioja 1036 AEHPU Bertiami, Ave. Libertad 3182 AEPU Bologna, 9 de Julio 2542 AEP Cinalli, La Rioja 1087 AEHP City, Diag. Alberdi 2561 ADEHPU Corona, Ave. Libertad 3026 AEP Del Paseo, Rivadavia 2569 ADEMPTU Delfín, Rivadavia 2556 AEPU Dunas, Balcarce 3285 AP España, Ave. Luro 2964 AEP Gran Mar, La Rioja 1740 ADEGPTV Gran Panorama, 3 de Febrero 3142 AEFPU Ideal, 3 de Febrero 2663 AEP Ipanema, Libertad 3222 AEPU Nápoles, Ave. Independencia 1085 AEFHP Novator, La Rioja 1041 ADEFHPTUV Novi, H. Yrigoyen 1311 AEFPU Nuevo Ostende, H. Yrigoyen 1737 ADEPU Olamar, La Rioja 1423 AEFP Panamericano, H. Yrigoyen 1683 ADEPTU Peninsular, 9 de Julio 2987 AEFPU

151

@ @

4921616/19 fax $D 4910033 fax $D

2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

4911060 4916524 4951087 4934424 4948756 4958211 4916376 4958851/2 fax 4951388 4911159 4936800 49103047 4920406 4953447 4930051–57 4956465 4935758 4936650 4920013 4937978 4935868 4958777 4937814 4954085 4948800 4930999 4938018 4932565 4912938 4953360 4939036 4958571 4953777 4950526 4935475 4943686

$D $E

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4954723 4952051 4950470 4951778 4950081 4940662 4956041 4954151

$F/G 2

$F

2

Mar del Plata

PAMPA PROVINCES Accommodation in Mar del Plata — continued ** ** ** * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Plaza España, Maipú 3155 AFPT Regidor, H. Yrigoyen 1374 ADEFP Saavedra, Córdoba 1432 AEPT Aduar, Salta 955 AEFPU Albamar, Balcarce 2833 AEP Alpino, Balcarce 2999 AEHP Andorra, Catamarca 1153 AEFP Astorga, Ave. Independencia 1009 AEHP Benidorm, Catamarca 1025 AEP Bermudas, 3 de Febrero 2484 AEHPU Bolívar, Balcarce 2986 AEFHP Boston, Córdoba 1456 AEHP Castelar, H Yrigoyen 1154 Corales, Ave. Independencia 648 AEFHPT Dubrovnik, La Rioja 1063 AEPT Elvines, 3 de Febrero 2472 AEP Florida, Salta 1357 AEP Gade, Salta 724 AEP Hawaii, Chacabuco 3146 ADEHPT Indian Palace, 3 de Febrero 2957 AEPT King’s, Pedro Luro 2220 AEPU Kube, Salta 928 AEFHP La Mirage, 9 de Julio 2642 AFPT Lacar, Salta 874 AEPT Lomas Palcace, Santa Fe 1347 AP Lumington, Balcarce 3027 AEPT Mar Argentino, 3 de Febrero 2851 AEP Mar del Mundo, Catamarca 1239 AEP Maryland, 11 de Septiembre 2796 AEP Nane, Salta 842 AEHPT Ocean Nelson, Balcarce 3101 AEP O Sole Mio, Ave. Independencia 1277 AEFP Olimpia, Ave. Libertad 3266 AEHPT Portofino, Catamarca 861 AEFHPT Puerto Banus, Balcarce 2833 AEP Sesán, Catamarca 1229 AEP Sol y Mar, 3 de Febrero 2915 AEP Storni, 11 de Septiembre 2642 AEPU Super, 3 de Febrero 2463 AEP Tivoli, Salta 1462 AEP

Accommodation in the city center See map on page 160. **** **** **** **** **** ****

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

4749922 4937806 4938443 4732020 4933436 4931034 fax 4936525 4951174 4957608 4932631 4950709 4954506 4954040 4737697 4959456 4952185 4737484 4739371 4735683 4957624 4930081/2 4748314 4923661 4738082 4954206 4956444 4951389 4930245 4954835 4738996 4959392 4956685 4956606 4732504 4933436 4917388 4953615 4916200 4949954 4954947

$F $F

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$F

2

Argentino, Belgrano 2225 ADEHP$U @ 4930091/94 fax $D Dos Reyes, Colón 2129 AEMP Fax 4912916; @ 4910383 $D Gran Hotel Hermitage, Bulevar Marítimo (Peralta Ramos) 2657 Fax 4517235 AEFHP$ @ 4519633 $D Gran Hotel Provincial, Bvar p.p. Ramos 2300 @ 4916376 $D ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Gran República, Córdoba 1968 ADEFHPU Fax 4921148 @ 4921141 $D Gran Tronador, Moreno 2541 ACP @ 4951798 $D/E

Mar del Plata

152

2 2 2 2 2 2

BUENOS AIRES Accommodation in Mar del Plata — continued **** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * *

Vison, Belgrano 2609 AEP$U Fax 4954488 América, Bolívar 2322 AEPU Augusto, Bolívar 2370 ADEFHPV Benedetti, Colón 2198 AEHPT Carlos V, Belgrano 2674 AEHP Castelmar, Brown 2347 AEFP Condesa del Mar, Falucho 2652 AFPR Cosmos, Buenos Aires 2481 AEFHP Denver, Arenales 2477 ADEP Web site: www.hoteldenver.com.ar Estocolmo, Santa Fe 2070 AFHMP Flamingo, Moreno 2155 AEP Garden, Moreno 2393 AEFP Gran Ducal, Santa Fe 1973 ADEHP Gran Hotel Continental, Córdoba 1929 Fax 4922443 AEPU Gran Hotel Mónaco, Santiago del Estero 2156 AFHPU Gran Opera, Falucho 1938 AFHPU Ibiza, Gascón 1749 AEP Minerva, Bolívar 2535 ADEHP Punta del Este, B Moreno 2563 AEHP Vaness, Corrientes 1842 ADEPU Alto Valle, Buenos Aires 2338 ADEP Astro, Bolívar 2373 ADEHPV Casablanca, Mitre 2151 AEFHPU Catedral, Moreno 2327 ADEHP Center, Belgrano 2187 ADEHPTU Compostela, Belgrano 2561 AFHPU Dallas Centre, Belgrano 2368 AEPU Elisabeth, Santiago del Estero 2430 AEFP La Salle, Entre Ríos 2262 ADEFPU L’Eté, Corrientes 2276 AFP Luso Argentino, Santa Fe 2075 AEPTU Mar Azul, Belgrano 2713 AEHPU Marbella, Corrientes 2131 AEHPU Miglierina, Belgrano 2367 AEPU Montreal, Corrientes 1886 AEPU Napoleón, Santa Fe 1913 AEPU Neptuno, Brown 1959 ADEFPU Nuevo San Marcos, Falucho 1843 AEHPU Ortegal, Moreno 2476 AEP Park, Gascón 1970 AFHPU Piemonte, Buenos Aires 2447 ADFHPU Repetto, Las Heras 2285 AEPT Rutibell, Bolívar 2452 AEFPU Salliquelo, Las Heras 2443 AEP San Remo, Belgrano 2338 ADEHPT Selent, Arenales 2347 ADEHPU Tirol, Mitre 2024 AEHPU Waldorf, Buenos Aires 2389 AEFPU Andes, Moreno 2445 AEP Aragón, Buenos Aires 1933 AELPV Arcos, Entre Ríos 1975 ADEPTU

153

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

4910798 4939757 4957059 4930031/33 4952049 4945115 4955420 4933544 4954651

$D $E

2 2

$E $F $E $E $D $G/H

2 2 2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @

4910912 fax 4941080 4957091 4949450

$D $E $F $E

2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

4921300 4937299 4951795 4942681 4954002 fax 4942000 4944909 4958743 4943929 4917725 4942447 4954066 4952796 4952937 4950099 4957252 4944205 4957184 fax 4952066 4956232 4957023 fax 4945984 4941006 4955439 4953988 4958811 4942582 4954113 4957380 4953397 4959117 4936608 4940878 4958425 4931825 4959740 4953064 4953771

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$F/G 2 $G $F

2 2

Mar del Plata

PAMPA PROVINCES Accommodation in Mar del Plata — continued * * * * * * * * * * * *

Ca D’Oro, Las Heras 2439 Cervantes, Santiago del Estero 2181 Chila, Gascón 2536 Czerwiak, Gascón 1740 Frandor’s, Belgrano 2243 Lebet, Entre Ríos 2282 Nuevo Ranglani, Bolívar 2556 Po, Entre Ríos 1989 Ramos Mejía, Entre Ríos 1961 Roland, Corrientes 1965 San Carlos, Lamadrid 2408 Select, Corrientes 1966

Accommodation near bus terminal See map on page 162. Hotels *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Cadi Palace, Las Heras 2699 Corcel, Las Heras 2920 Nuevo Horizonte, Lamadrid 2506 Vip’s, Tucumán 2233 Alicante, Güemes 2255 Ambar, Brown 1640 Canciller, Gascón 1639 Eiffel, Güemes 3041 Esmeralda Select, Brown 1553 Europa, Arenales 2735 Hierco Mar, Güemes 3174 Imperio, Ave. Colón 1186 Lagos Argentinos, Garay 1545 Lyon, Las Heras 2731 Mediterráneo, Las Heras 2936 Nelimar, Falucho 1563 Nuevo Embajador, Alsina 2571 Pedro I, Alvarado 1832 Riazor, Las Heras 2669 Trevi OSPG, Las Heras 2976 Vial Center, Tucumán 2417 Adel, Avellaneda 1206 Alsina, Alsina 2368 Apa, Falucho 1548 Atlas, Olavarría 2675 Bahía Blanca, Rawson 2039 Calash, Falucho 1355 Carla, Arenales 2578 Cecil, Güemes 2357 Christian, Tucumán 2918 Dante, Olavarría 2461 Danubio, Alvarado 1442 Don Quijote, Sarmiento 2478 El Cortijo, Tucumán 2912 Fama, Falucho 1575 Francis, Sarmiento 2742 Gaston, Falucho 1240 Harrington, Tucumán 2836

Mar del Plata

AEP ADEHPU AEP AHP AEFHP AEP AEHPU AEPU AEPU AP AEP AEHPU

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

4936308 4951049 4935710 4941966 4934423 4958593 4933730 4950068 4940084 fax 4922069 4958829 4938079

AEFPU AEFPU AHP AEFHPU AEHP ADEHPTU AEHP AEFPU ADEFHP AFPU AHP AEFHP ADEHP AEPU ADEP AFP ADFPT AFP AFP AEP AEP AEP AEP AEP AFPST AEP AEFP AEFP AEP ADEP AEFP AEHP AEPU AEP AEP AEPU AEFPU AEP

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

4937002 4513033 4936983 4947383 4517835 4512358 4863641 4519504 4513395 4940436 4515890 4512029 4515522 4930889 4511650 4514226 4519221 4942562 4944643 4517959 4913593 4510566 4514465 4514704 4511690 4931923 4516115 4914982 4513473 4943988 4515258 4514062 4514034 4935092 4516686 4862484 4514938 4940376

154

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$H $F

1 2

$G

2

$E

2

BUENOS AIRES Accommodation in Mar del Plata — continued * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Impala, Sarmiento 2833 AEP @ 4512536 Italia, Lamadrid 2941 AHP @ 4948087 La Madrileña, Sarmiento 2957 AHPT @ 4512072 Las Heras, Las Heras 2843 AFPT @ 4937841 Lores, Falucho 1552 AEPU @ 4512156 Mallorca, Sarmiento 3060 AEFHP @ 4511932 Mar, Gascón 1410 AEFP @ 4517269 Moli-Mar, Alberti 1956 AEP @ 4936138 fax $F Norma, Brown 1563 AEP @ 4512502 Ondina, Alsina 2359 AEP @ 4511017 Pergamino, Tucumán 2736 AEPU @ 4957927 $I Also operates a youth hostel February 15–December 15. Six blocks from beach Petit Maris, Castelli 1363 APTU @ 4519404 Pilmayquen, Garay 1831 AEFP @ 4942657 Roberts, Güemes 2551 ADEFP @ 4512865 Romero, Falucho 1644 AEHP @ 4514872 Santos, Güemes 2857 AEP @ 4512154 Sirenuse, Mendoza 2240 AEPU @ 4519580 Sol, Las Heras 2723 AEP @ 4938161 Tiber, Olavarría 2580 AEP @ 4519958 Tony, Alvarado 2066 AEHP @ 4515172 Venus, Falucho 1452 AEFP @ 4861972

2 1

Accommodation near the Puerto See map on page 165. Hotels ***** ***** **** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** * *

Costa Galana, Bulevar Marítimo 5725 ADFHKP$TU Fax 4862020 not on map Sheraton, Alem 4221 ADFHP$TU Fax 4999009 Las Rocas, Alberti 9 AEFHPU Amsterdam, Bvar Marítimo 4799 ADPU Marino, Alem 3641 AFPU Club del Golf, A. Del Valle 3641 AEPU Marysol, A. Del Valle 3531 ADEFHPU San Marco, A. Del Valle 3144 ADEFHP Stella Maris, Alem 3495 AEP Zárate, Garay 24 AEFHPU Austral, Alem 3602 AP Los Angeles, Alem 2642 AEP

Accommodation near railroad station Hotels * *

Don Bosco, Ave. Luro 4802 Nueva Italia, Ave. Luro 4794

APR

@

4860000

$A

2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

4999000 $A 4515362/3 fax $D 4515137 4513304 4513456 4516189 4517023 4512941 4518897/8 4512225 4515376

2 2

@ @

4723125 4725016

Accommodation in Playa Punta Mogotes Hotels **** *** *** **

Gran Hotel Casino Sasso, M de Hoz 3545 @ 4842500 Fax 4842505 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Los Acantilados, Calle 36 near 5 AEFPR @ 4675005 Torremolinos, M. de Hoz 1805 AFHPU @ 4841006 Soleares, Pacheco 2168 ADEHPTU @ 4842794

155

$D

2

Mar del Plata

PAMPA PROVINCES •

producing cattle and grain. It is definitely gaucho country where good horsemanship is part of the lifestyle. Indeed many large haciendas have there own polo courses and can be visited as part of a guided tour. There are a few hilly areas going further inland towards Balcarce; see page 117. Near the small town of Coronel Vidal some 61 km north is the oldest pulpería or gaucho tavern in Argentina, said to be 160 years old; see Excursions from Santa Clara del Mar on page 211. RP 11 links Mar del Plata along the coast with Miramar south and Villa Gesell to the north. There are frequent buses between the various seaside resorts. Mar del Plata’s tourist facilities are definitely world-class.

Camping Laguna de los Padres, KM 15 @ 4630232

E Eating out

Eating out north-west of Avenida Colón Restaurants A parrilla is a type of grill. • Ambos Mundos, Rivadavia 2644. International cuisine • Antártida, Pedro Luro 2156. International cuisine and shows • Biergarten, Bulevar Marítimo 2411. German cuisine • Caballito Blanco, Rivadavia 2534 $X. International cuisine • Cantina Gruta de Capri, Belgrano 2161. Seafood • Cantina Nápoli, Santiago del Estero 1775. Parrilla • Cari-Lauquen, Bolívar 2801. Parrilla • Centro Asturiano, Jujuy 2285. Spanish cuisine • Centro de Castilla y León, H. Yrigoyen 2067. Spanish cuisine • Club Mitre, Bolívar 3367. Parrilla A Festivals & • Coyote, Avenida Constitución 6650 • Foundation day: February 10 next to Disco Sobremonte. Mexican • Día de la Tradición (Day of Tradicuisine tion): November 10 • Don Alejo, Libertad 5301. Parrilla • Festival Folklórico de La Danza Junto • Don Genaro, Constitución 4402. Inal Mar: April ternational cuisine • Don Gregorio, Constitución 4698. B Tourist information Parrilla • Ente Municipal de Turismo, Boule• El Bifacho, San Luis 1622. Parrilla vard Marítimo 2267 @ 4950853 • El Brasero, Rivadavia 2192. Parrilla fax 4942553; Web site: www.argenet. • El Nuevo Cardón. Mitre 2047. Parrilla com.ar/emtur/ • El Rey del Bife, Avenida Colón 2863. • Subsecretaría de Turismo de la Parrilla Provincia de Buenos Aires, Boule• El Viejo Matías. Avenida vard Marítimo 2500, Galería Hotel Constitución 4592. Parrilla Provincial local 60 @ 425340/4951777 • Finca del Sol, San Martín 2463 (up• Secretaría de Turismo de la Nación, stairs). Vegetarian cuisine Boulevard Marítimo 2500, Galería • Guni, Rivadavia 2745. Pizzería Hotel Provincial local 57 @/fax 493859 • Jockey Club, Salta 2269. International cuisine D Camping • Juan de los Palotes, Avenida Camping spot $I 4; Cabins $H 4 Constitución 4595. Parrilla • La Huerta, Santiago del Estero 1719. Camping on RP 11 Vegetarian cuisine • Campamento Las Brusquitas, RP 11 • La Alambra, 25 de Mayo, 3805. KM 39 south of Punta Mogotes Parrilla • Campamento Acuario, Barrio San • & La Paella, Entre Ríos 2025. InternaPatricio tional cuisine • Campamento Los Pinos, RN 226 • Tía Teresa, San Luis 2081. Italian cuiKM 15. Located on Laguna de los Pasine dres Mar del Plata

156

BUENOS AIRES Tonne, Belgrano 2253. German cui• Taberna Baska, 12 de Octubre 3301. Seafood sine • Tía Pepina, H. Yrigoyen 2699. Sea• Trattoria Napolitana, 3 de Febrero food 3158. Italian cuisine & • Trenque Lauquen, Mitre 2803 near • Verdi, Rejón 3656. French cuisine Garay $X. Parrilla Cafeterías, tearooms and fast food/self serve Venus, Alsina 2256. International cui• • Pumpernic, San Martín 2339. sine Self-serve Cafeterías, tearooms and fast food/self serve • La Cuadrada, 9 de Julio. Tea room • Ficus, Falucho 2740. Tea room • Rómulo y Remo, San Luis 1203 Eating out in the Centro Eating out south-east of Avenida Colón Restaurants Restaurants and pizzerías • El Fogón, Alberti 2123 • Atalaya del Mar, Escollera Club de • Loma Rica, Santiago del Estero 1330 Pesca. Seafood • Tinto i Soda, Catamarca 2436 • Cantábrico, Avenida J.B. Justo 1800. Spanish cuisine Pizzerías • Casa de Alto, Independencia 3388. In• Costa Brava, San Martín 2547 ternational cuisine • Valentino, H. Yrigoyen 1665 • City, Castelli 3200. Italian cuisine • Don Armando, San Lorenzo 3101. Inn Entertainment ternational cuisine The biggest concentration of discos and • El Boticario, Almafuerte 241. Internanight clubs is on Avenida Constitución. tional cuisine • Casino Central, Bulevar Marítimo • El Dragón Dorado, Alberti 1555. Chi2100 nese cuisine • Casino Hotel Hermitage, Bulevar • El Rincón de los Amigos, Córdoba Marítimo 2757 2580. Parrilla • Casino Hotel Sasso, Martínez de Hoz • El Timón, Martínez de Hoz near 12 de 3545 Octubre, in Centro Comercial Puerto; • Cine Luro, Avenida Luro 4430 $Y. Seafood • Dancing Club Edad Madura, Gascón • El Viejo Pop, Centro Comercial 3540 Puerto; $Y. International cuisine • Disco Archie, Bulevar Marítimo 3200 • Fontanella, Rawson 2302. Interna• Disco Canela, Constitución 4478. tional cuisine Fri–Sun, all ages • Hilton, Alberti 1501. Chinese cuisine • Disco Go!, Constitución 5700. Dance • La Caracola, Martínez de Hoz near 12 hall for 2500 persons. Rock and Roll de Octubre in Centro Comercial band Puerto. Seafood • Disco Sobremonte, Constitución • La Luna, Castelli 2676. Chinese cui6690. Fri–Sun; dance hall for 6000 persine sons, live band; all ages, couples only. • La Libertad, Catamarca 2395. Parrilla • Disco Summertime, Constitución • La Marca, Almafuerte 253. Parrilla 6416. Fri–Sun; all ages • La Marina, 12 de Octubre 3147. Sea• Disco Sunset, Constitución 5096; adfood mission $Y. All ages, couples only • Mesón Navarro, J.B. Justo 1966. Sea• Disco Xanadú, Constitución 6700. All food ages, couples only • Rincón Andaluz, Arenales 2466. Sea• Disco Ydolem, Constitución 5268 food • Jazz bands Los Alegres ‘20, Avenida • Rincón Basko, J.B. Justo 2466. Seafood Luro 4064. Shows • Ruca Lauquen, Alberti 2429. Parrilla • Jazz bands Papa Montero, España • Sortilege-Zabalitas, L.N. Alem 4601 1839 near Pringles $Y. International cui• Tanguería del 40, Constitución 5203. sine Tango dancing; adults • Stella Maris, Alberti 1201. International cuisine •

&

& &

&

157

Mar del Plata

PAMPA PROVINCES To Pinamar

To Santa Clara del Mar 1

M A R D E L P L ATA CENTRO NORTE

11

AYACUCHO

Pl

To Buenos Aires

2

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32

36

31

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73

JOSÉ DE SAN MARTÍN

86

88

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DI . ALBER 56 A V E . J .B AVE . LURO 69

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SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO

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To Miramar

•

Theaters Mar del Plata has two theaters where operas, recitals and concerts are given all year round; the big opera and theater season however is in January/February when virtually the whole cast of the Teatro Colón in Buenos Aires moves to Mar del Plata. The Teatro Auditorium is located in the Edificio Casino, Bvar Marítimo 2280 and Teatro Colón is located on H. Yrigoyen 1665.

Tanguería Baccardi, Avenida Constitución 5979 Entertainment in the city center • Casino Central, Bulevar Marítimo 2100 • Casino Hotel Provincial, Bulevar Marítimo 2500 • Chat Bar, Mitre 1831 • Cine Ambassador, Córdoba 1671 • Cine Plaza, Rivadavia 2536 • Dancing Club Edad Media, Belgrano 3264 • Tanguería Caribbean, Entre Ríos 2121 • Tanguería La Casa de Walter Berón, Moreno 2654. Shows

Mar del Plata

I Post and telegraph

• •

158

Post office: Correo Argentino, Pedro Luro 2460 near Santiago del Estero Telephones: Telefónica Argentina, Avenida Colón 2550

BUENOS AIRES Key to map A C D I

Catedral de San Pedro Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Ente Municipal de Turismo

3 Accommodation 1 2 3

4 5 6 7 8 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

Hotel Corales Hotel Gade Hotel Nane and Hotel Lacar Hotel Hawaii Hotel Portofino Hotel Aduar Hotel Kube Hotel Plaza España Hotel Ipanema and Hotel Olimpia Hotel Astorga and Hotel Nápoles Hotel Dunas Hotel Venezia Hotel Bertiami Hotel Ocean Nelson Hotel Benidorm and Hotel Atlántico Hotel Novator, Hotel Dubrovnik and Hotel Cinalli Hotel Corona Hotel Lumington Hotel Bastit Hotel Alpino Hotel Puerto Banus, Hotel Albamar and Hotel Armida Hotel Andorra Hotel Reina’s Hotel Bolívar Hotel Castelar and Hotel Traful Hotel O Sole Mio Hotel Sesán and Hotel Mar del Mundo Hotel Skorpios Hotel Brunetti

31 Hotel Sol y Mar and Hotel Indian Palace 32 Hotel Mar Argentino 33 Hotel Adriático, Hotel Mustang and Hotel Maryland 35 Hotel Storni 36 Hotel Ideal 37 Hotel Super 38 Hotel Florida 40 Hotel Gran Panorama 41 Hotel Sennac 42 Hotel Peninsular 43 Hotel Regidor 44 Hotel Novi 45 Hotel Elvines and Hotel Bermudas 46 Hotel Lomas Palace 47 Hotel Tivoli 48 Hotel Olamar 49 Hotel Lincoln 50 Hotel Bologna and Hotel La Mirage 51 Hotel Saavedra and Hotel Boston 52 Hotel Almte Brown 55 Hotel City 56 Hotel Valles 57 Hotel Presidente 58 Hotel Gran Iruña and Hotel Guerrero 59 Hotel España 61 Hotel Panamericano 68 Hotel Prince 69 Hotel Versailles 70 Hotel Dión 71 Hotel King’s, Hotel Rivoli and Hotel Gran Manila 72 Hotel Astor 73 Hotel Manila I 75 Hotel Gran Mar 76 Hotel Nuevo Ostende 80 Hotel Del Paseo 90 Hotel Corbel 91 Hotel Delfín 95 Hotel Gran Dora

4 Eating out

34 Cafetería Rómulo y Remo 39 Restaurant Trattoria Napolitana 62 Restaurant El Bifacho 67 Pizzería Costa Brava 77 Pizzería Guni 74 Restaurant Antártida 81 Restaurant La Huerta and Restaurant Cantina Nápoli 83 Restaurant Finca del Sol 84 Fast Food Pumpernic 88 Restaurant Ambos Mundos 93 Restaurant Caballito Blanco 94 Restaurant El Brasero

5 Entertainment 60 66 86 92

Teatro Colón Cine Ambassador Chat Bar Cine Plaza

6 Airline offices

65 Lapa 79 Dinar Líneas Aéreas

7 Tour operators and rent a car 64 Chamorro Viajes 82 Dynamic Viajes

L Financial 53 54 78 85

Cambios Jonestur Cambios Mar del Plata Cambios La Moneta Banco de Bostón

9 Sights 9

Museo Municipal de Ciencias Naturales “Lorenzo Scaglia”

0 Services

63 Oti International

L Financial

•

•

M Services and facilities

•

• • •

Banco de Boston, Ave. Independencia 1827 Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires, Brown 2048 Cambios Mar del Plata, Pedro Luro 3071 @ 4949103 Cambios Jonestur, Pedro Luro 3191 @ 4949103 Cambios La Moneta, Rivadavia 2623 @ 4950698

Cambio Mar del Plata, Buenos Aires 1910

Bicycle hire • Plaza Mitre, San Luis near Brown; $4.00 per hour • Total Sports Mar del Plata, Rawson 10 @ 42\13853155-213853; bus no. 221 and 581; $10.00 for 3 hrs.

159

Mar del Plata

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48 46

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Plaza Colón

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FALUCHO 73

67

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66

LAS HERAS

69

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SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO

AVE . COLÓN

To Miramar

56

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ALMTE . BROWN

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58 51

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B.MITRE

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38

71

76 79 81 75 74

78 77

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85 87

M A R D EL P LATA CE NT RO

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86

ALBERTI

• • •

T Trains

Ferrobaires station (Estación Norte) is on Avenida Luro 4599 near Chaco @ 4756076. The trains depart in Buenos Aires from Constitución station Buenos Aires–Mar del Plata Trains take between 4 and 5 hrs. • Bonaerense; 1 daily • El Marplatense; 2 weekly January/February. • Cruz del Sur; 1 daily • Alfonsina Storni; 1daily • Stella Maris: 1 daily

Ciudad de Mar del Plata; 1 daily Tren 4301; 1 daily Tren 4302; 1 daily

U Motoring Car rentals • Avis, Bulevar Marítimo 2451 @ 4937850 • Localiza, Salta 2545 @ 4913623 • A1 Rent a Car, Ave. Colón 2450 (A.C.A.) @ 4910091 • Dollar, Córdoba 2270

R Air services from Mar del Plata

Aeropuerto Camet is on RN 2, 7 km from the city center. Airlines • Aerolíneas Argentinas, Moreno 2442 • Aerolíneas Argentinas/Austral Líneas Aéreas, Rambla Hotel Provincial, Local 1–3 @ 4958725 • Dinar Líneas Aéreas, San Martín 2574 local 36 • Lapa, Córdoba 1621 @ 4922112/13/14 Services • Buenos Aires (1 hour ); 6 daily 08:45–22:20; AU, AR • Patagonian destinations: L.A.D.E. — see L.A.D.E. Section of Air services from Buenos Aires City on page 66.

Mar del Plata

160

BUENOS AIRES Key to map E

Telefónica Argentina

3 Accommodation 3 5 7 8 11 12 13 14 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 31 32 37 40 42 43 45 46 47 50 51

Hotel del Paseo Hotel Mar Azul Hotel Vison Hotel Delfín Hotel Compostela Hotel Miglierina Hotel Vaness and Hotel Montreal Hotel Argentino and Hotel Frandor’s Hotel Gran Dorá Hotel Carlos V Hotel Gran Continental Hotel Gran República Hotel Gran Tronador and Hotel Punta del Este Hotel Andes Hotel Napoleón and Hotel Gran Ducal Hotel San Remo and Hotel Dallas Centre Hotel Catedral and Hotel Garden Hotel Roland Hotel Select Hotel Ramos Mejía, Hotel Arcos and Hotel Po Hotel Center Hotel Flamingo Hotel Aragón Hotel Gran Hotel Provincial Hotel Tirol Hotel Minerva Hotel Ortegal Hotel Luso Argentino Hotel Estocolmo Hotel Astro Hotel Casablanca Hotel Nuevo Ranglani

52 53 54 56 57 59 60 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 70 71 73 74 75 76 77 79 80 81 82 83 85 86 87

Hotel Cervantes Hotel Gran Mónaco Hotel Rutibell Hotel América and Hotel Augusto Hotel Marbella Hotel Dos Reyes Hotel Gran Hermitage Hotel Castelmar Hotel L’Eté Hotel La Salle and Hotel Lebet Hotel Neptuno Hotel Repetto Hotel Waldorf Hotel Alto Valle Hotel Selent Hotel Nuevo San Marcos Hotel Condesa del Mar Hotel Elisabeth Hotel Piemonte and Hotel Cosmos Hotel Gran Opera Hotel Denver Hotel San Carlos Hotel Ibiza Hotel Ca D’Oro and Hotel Salliquelo Hotel Benedetti Hotel Chila Hotel Park Hotel Nuevo Horizonte Hotel Czerwiak

4 Eating out 1 6

Pizzería Guni Restaurant Ambos Mundos 10 Restaurant Caballito Blanco 15 Restaurant Tonne 16 Restaurant El Brasero

Service stations • A.C.A. Alvarado 2437 @ 4723000 • A.C.A. Ave. Colón 2450

•

# Water transport

Several tour boats make short excursions. These are located in the port area some 5 km south from the town center. • Yate Fiesta Crucero Anamora, Puerto de Mar del Plata Dársena B @ 4890310 • Yate Fortuna, Yate Fortuna II, Victoria, Anabela and Yate Ciudad de Nápoles depart from Banquina de los Pescadores (Fishermen’s dock side) in the Puerto de Mar del Plata @ 4801648. Fishing cruises start at

•

30 Restaurant Cantina Gruta de Capri 38 Restaurant Centro de Castilla y León 39 Restaurant El Nuevo Cardón and Restaurant Cari-Lauquen 41 Restaurant Tía Teresa 48 Restaurant La Paella 49 Restaurant El Rey del Bife 72 Cafetería Ficus 78 Restaurant Rincón Andaluz 84 Restaurant El Fogón

5 Entertainment 4 9 35 58

Chat Bar Cine Plaza Casino Hotel Provincial Tanguería Caribbean

6 Airline offices

44 Aerolíneas Argentinas

7 Tour operators and car rental 55 A1 Rent a Car 61 Dollar Rent a Car

L Financial

2 Cambios La Moneta 33 Cambio Mar del Plata 69 Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires

B Tourist information

34 Ente Municipal de Turismo 36 Secretaría de Turismo de la Nación

07:00, returning after 13:00. Price: $45.00–$60.00 per person Paseos Marítimas y Pesca Deportiva Embarcada has Yate Bahía, departures are from Centro Naval, Espigón B @ 4515037 Embarcación Von Clarland, Centro Naval Yacht Club @ 4861813

a Sport

Many sporting events are held in Mar del Plata. The Estadio Mundialista built in 1978 holds 50 000 spectators. • Cycling: Club Alvarado, Rodríguez Peña 4984 @ 4721611. • Diving: AMBA, Gascón 3266 @ 444326 161

Mar del Plata

PAMPA PROVINCES To Mar Chiquita

Pla

ya

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is t ol

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38

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ARENALES

$

15

TUCUMÁN

AVENIDA COLÓN 7

To Miramar

BELGRANO

57

GARAY 63 58

59

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62 61

CASTELLI 65 64

67 66 68

ALVARADO 69

71

72

70

AVELLANEDA 74 73

SAN LORENZO 75

•

Sailing and nautical clubs Regatta San Fernando–Mar del Plata is held in February. • Anamora Yate Fiesta has a capacity of 300 passengers. It departs weekends and holidays from Dársena B, Muelle de Guardacostas. departures are 11:30 and 16:00, Cost: $10.00 per person. Public buses no 511, 552 and 593 from the town center • Club Motonáutica Mar del Plata, Martínez de Hoz, Dársena F @ 4800774. Restaurant • Club Náutico Mar del Plata, Espigón C Bulevar Marítimo @ 4800797. Restaurant • Yacht Club Argentino: Espigón 4 Playa Grande @ 4511287

Polo: Mar del Plata Polo Club, Beruti 5819 @ 4771453; in Parque Camet 8 km to the north of the city center. Copa de Verano (Summer Cup) is held in January Golf clubs The open Golf Championships are held in January. The two golf clubs listed are among the most prestigious golf clubs in Argentina. • Club Mar del Plata S.A., Calle 24 near Calle 35 Los Acantilados @ (0223) 4642626 • Mar del Plata Golf Club, Aristóbulo del Valle 3940 @ (0223) 4511306/4518865

Mar del Plata

MAR DEL PLATA BUS TERMINAL

162

BUENOS AIRES Key to map T

Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 4 5 7 8 9 10 12 13 14 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 29 30 31 32 33 34 35

Hotel Provincial Hotel Hermitage Hotel Vip’s Hotel Neptuno Hotel Repetto Hotel Esmeralda Select and Hotel Norma Hotel Alicante Hotel Imperio Hotel Sirenuse Hotel Selent Hotel Nuevo San Marcos Hotel Ibiza Hotel Ambar Hotel Fama and Hotel Nelimar Hotel Ondina Hotel Alsina Hotel Calash Hotel Cecil Hotel Vial Center Hotel Gran Opera Hotel Denver Hotel San Carlos Hotel Ca D’Oro and Hotel Salliquelo Hotel Romero Hotel Canciller Hotel Don Quijote Hotel Lores and Hotel Apa Hotel Venus

36 37 38 39 40 41 43 44 45 46 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68

Hotel Dante Hotel Gaston Hotel Park Hotel Carla Hotel Nuevo Horizonte Hotel Czerwiak Hotel Nuevo Embajador Hotel Mar Hotel Tiber Hotel Roberts Hotel Bahía Blanca Hotel Moli-Mar Hotel Riazor and Hotel Cadi Palace Hotel Atlas Hotel Pergamino Hotel Europa Hotel Pilmayquen Hotel Sol and Hotel Lyon Hotel Francis Hotel Lagos Argentinos Hotel Harrington Hotel Las Heras Hotel Diva Hotel Impala Hotel Petit Maris Hotel Santos Hotel Tony Hotel Christian and Hotel El Cortijo Hotel Italia Hotel Corcel, Hotel Mediterráneo and Hotel Trevi Hotel La Madrileña

•

Tennis: Club River Plate, Avenida Juan B. Justo 5785 • Horse racing: Club Hípico Mar del Plata, Parque Camet @ 4739703 Pleasure flights • Aero Club Mar del Plata RP 88 KM 9 @ 4642151. Reached by buses no 715/720. Cessna 152 and PA11 and PA38. Minimum: 3 persons $42.00 each • R.A.S., Aeropuerto RP 2 KM 386 @ 4515117. Piper Aztec and Cessna 152. $99.00 per hour. Half-hour over Mar del Plata and half-hour flights over Sierra de los Padres cost $40.00 per person Sport in Chapadmalal • Golf: Marayui Country Club, Playa Chapadmalal RP 1 KM 11 @ (02291) 421028. It also has accommodation, restaurant, swimming pool, and conference rooms.

69 70 71 72 73 74

Hotel Pedro I Hotel Mallorca Hotel Danubio Hotel Eiffel Hotel Hierco Mar Hotel Adel

4 Eating out

11 Restaurant Venus 28 Restaurant Rincón Andaluz 42 Restaurant Hilton and Restaurant El Dragón Dorado 47 Restaurant Stella Maris 75 Pizzería Mí Casa

5 Entertainment 2

Casino

L Financial

15 Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires

9 Sights 6

Museo Municipal de Arte “Juan Carlos Castagnino

B Tourist Information 1 3

Ente Municipal de Turismo Secretaría de Turismo de la Nación

Sport in Sierra de los Padres • Golf: Sierra de los Padres Golf Club, RN 226 west, the turnoff is south at KM 22. @ (0223) 4630062; 18 holes

p Sightseeing

•

•

163

Museo Municipal de Ciencias Naturales “Lorenzo Scaglia” (Lorenzo Scaglia Municipal Natural Science Museum), Avenida Libertad 2999. Has exhibits of fossils from the tertiary and quaternary periods, and an aquarium. There is also a geological and archeological section. Temporarily closed, but check Museo Tradicionalista Argentino “José Hernández” (José Hernández Traditional Museum), RP 226 KM14.5. Located in the original buildings of the former estancia Laguna de los Padres. It has sections on the gaucho life, the settlers period and a section on the presence of man

Mar del Plata

PAMPA PROVINCES S Buses from Mar del Plata

The bus terminal is on Alberti 1602 near Sarmiento @ 4515405. There are almost hourly bus services to Buenos Aires and the other coastal resorts like Miramar, Necochea, and Villa Gesell. Bus companies • Andesmar ° Mendoza (22 hrs) via Necochea, Coronel Suárez, General Pico (11 hrs) Vicuña Mackena and San Luis • Antón • Autotransportes San Juan • Costera Criolla • El Cóndor, local 49 @ 4514855 • El Pampa S.A. ° Carhué ( 10 hrs); 1 daily • El Rápido Argentino @ 4510600 ° Bahía Blanca via Necochea, Tres Arroyos, Coronel Dorrego, and Punta Alta • Empresa Argentina @ 4510666 • Empresa Córdoba–Mar del Plata • Expreso Jocolí @ 4862212 Long-distance services • • • • • •

Destination Fare Bahía Blanca $27.00 Bariloche $83.00 Buenos Aires $25.00 Comodoro Rivadavia Córdoba $49.50 La Plata $18.00

Services 5 daily

• • • • • • •

Luján Mendoza Neuquén Paraná Resistencia Río Gallegos Rosario

5 daily 2 daily

• • • • • • • •

Salta $85.00 San Clemente del Tuyú San Juan $62.00 San Luis $56.00 San Rafael Santa Fe $47.00 Santa Rosa Santiago del Estero $52.00 Tandil Termas de Río Hondo $ 54.00 Trelew $72.00 Tucumán $82.50 Viedma

• • • • •

Mar del Plata

$30.00 $56.00

$125.00

1 daily 4 daily 1 daily 4 daily 1 daily 2 daily 1 daily

Company El Pampa El Rápido Argentino El Rápido Argentino, T.A.C., Transportadora Patagónica Córdoba Mar–del Plata, Costera Criolla, El Rápido Argentino Empresa Argentina Andesmar, Jocolí, T.A.C. El Valle Costera Criolla Ciudad de Posadas 31 hrs T.A.C. Costera Criolla, Empresa Argentina, 29 hrs La Veloz del Norte El Rápido, Costamar Autotransportes San Juan Autotransportes San Juan, Jocolí T.A.C. 13 hrs Micro Ejecutivo, Zenit Turismo El Rápido

1 daily 10 daily

23 hrs La Estrella, Empresa Argentina El Rápido, Río Paraná

1 daily 2 weekly 1 daily

24 hrs La Estrella Transportes Patagónicos 26 hrs La Estrella, Empresa Argentina Transportadora Patagónica

12 daily 1 daily 3 daily 8 daily

Duration 7 hrs 19 hrs 7 hrs 20 hrs 15 hrs 5 hrs

1 daily 2 weekly 1 daily 5 daily

164

L .N. ALEM

Hotel Las Rocas Hotel Los Angeles Hotel Zárate Hotel San Marco Hotel Stella Maris Hotel Marysol Hotel Marino Hotel Austral Hotel Club del Golf Hotel Sheraton

B. DE IRIGOYEN

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C. S PELLEGRINI

3 Accommodation

Ca bo Corrientes

FALUCHO GASCÓN

1 ALBERTI

2 RAWSON

GARAY

Restaurant Bernardo Bikini Bar Pizzería Tijuana Restaurant El Boticario and Restaurant La Marca

ARISTÓBULO DEL VALLE

4 Eating out 10 11 12 13

Mar Argen tino

GENERAL PAZ

Key to map

GENERAL URQUIZA

BUENOS AIRES

CASTELLI

ALVARADO

AVELLANEDA

9 Entertainment

SAN LORENZO

14 Mar del Plata Golf Club

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in the area; some archeological objects are 10 000 years old. Open November–March daily 15:00–19:00; April–October Thurs–Sun 14:00– 18:00 Other museums: Museo y Archivo Histórico Municipal, Lamadrid 3870 Villa Emilio Mitre; Museo Municipal de Arte “Juan Carlos Castagnino”, Avenida Colón 1189 Villa Ortiz; Museo del Hombre del Puerto ”Cleto Ciocchini", Padre Dutto 383 Galería de Arte Torreón, Paseo J. de Galíndez Galería de Arte Lautrec, Bulevar Marítimo 2500 Catedral de San Pedro, San Martín block 2700, corner of San Luis

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ALMAFUERTE Parque Pri mavesi

Golf c ourse Cemetery

AVE. J.J. PASO

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s Excursions

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Tour operators • Chamorro Viajes, San Martín 2627 3rd floor @ 4959640 • Dynamic Viajes, San Martín 2471 3rd floor @ 4958558 • Oti International, San Luis 1632 2nd floor @ 4945414 Excursions • Mar del Plata Aquarium, Avenida Martínez de Hoz 5600 @ 4670700 at Punta Mogotes can be reached by buses 211/511/581 from down town. It has performing seals, water-skiing on a lake; also restaurants and

•

165

14 Puerto de Mar del Plata

M A R D EL P LATA PUER TO

children’s play grounds. Open daily 09:30–19:00; January, February and March open till midnight. Day ticket is $17.00 Faro Punta Mogotes, a 35m high lighthouse, is located on the Costanera leading south to Miramar Laguna de los Padres: The lake is located in the Sierra de los Padres, a low hill district some 22 km west of town on the road to Balcarce. It is surrounded by acres of forests and is stocked with fish. On the west side is the historic site of Nuestra Señora del Pilar. The church was founded by five Jesuit priests in 1746 to re-settle the nomadic tribes in the area but this social experiment was short-lived; by 1752 it was abandoned due to

Mar del Plata

PAMPA PROVINCES constant attacks by the local tribes under the leadership of cacique Cangapol. The five priests collected valuable data on the tribes’ customs and language. The church is a rebuilding of the original. On the south side of the lake is a nature reserve to protect the local birdlife and aquatic flora. The waterbirds consist of white herons, small herons, kingfishers, macaws, black necked swans to name a few plus a variety of native birds. In the forested areas are parrots, ring

•

doves, eagles, hummingbirds, and woodpeckers. Nearby is the Sierra de los Padres Golf Club set at the highest points of the range with narrow greens in woodland. Another attraction is the many good restaurants a n d c o n f i t e r í a s: N a m u n c u r á , Sefferino’s Ranch, Los Peñascos. Buses Peralta Ramos/Línea 717 runs buses every half hour to and from Mar del Plata Balcarce, 69 km west on RN 226: see Balcarce on page 117

MAR DEL SUR

Mar del Sur Population: 900 Postal code: 7607 @ area code: (02291) Distance from Buenos Aires: 467 km south on RN 2

M

ar del Sur, just 20 km south of Miramar, is a quiet summer resort with clean beaches for those who seek tranquillity rather than excitement. There are several hotels. Fishing is good at El Remanso and Rocas Negras. The wide beaches stretch for 38 km south as far as Centinela del Mar and consist of dunes in their natural state. •

Local buses from Miramar provide transport.

• • •

B Tourist information •

Información Turística, Avenida 100 near 23 @ 491091

I Post and telegraph

C Accommodation • • • •

•

Hotel Alé Alé, Calle 98 between 15 and 17 @ 491097 $G 2 Hospedaje Villa del Mar, Avenida 100 near Avenida Costanera Hospedaje Mar Azul, Calle 100 between 11 and 13 @ 491082 $G/H 2 Hostería Mar del Sur, Calle 98 near 15 @ 491006 $H 2

Post office: Correo, Calle 27 near 106

Y Shopping

There is a Fería de Artesanos on Avenida 100 near 13.

a Sport

•

E Eating out

Yacht club: Club Náutico, Avenida Costanera near 100 @ 491134

s Excursions

Meals cost from $Y.

Excursions • Cascada La Ballenera: 7 km north towards Miramar. Arroyo La Ballenera about 1 km from its mouth, forms a 2.5 m waterfall

Restaurants • Candilejas, Avenida 100 near 13 • Club Rocas Negras, Calle 17 near 18 • Cocoloco, Avenida 100 near Avenida Costanera • El Chino, Calle 106 Mar del Sur

Makarsca, Calle 13 between Avenida 100 and 102. Croatian cuisine Pelus, Avenida 100 between 11 and 13 Puerto Sur, Calle 13 near 86 Ricardito, Avenida 100 between 17 and 19

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BUENOS AIRES •

Médano Grande is a large dune not far from Cascada La Ballenera which is still shifting. From its top vistas

over the sea, Miramar, and Mar del Sur

MAR DEL TUYÚ

Mar del Tuyú Postal code: 7108 @ area code: (02246) Distance from Mar del Plata: 213 km north on RP 11

M

ar del Tuyú is one of the newer seaside resorts which have sprung up in this area. The beach extends for miles in both directions. The tourist season runs from mid-December to mid-March. Outside these months Mar del Tuyú is quiet, and much of the accommodation and other services close down. The streets have no names, but bear numbers instead.

D Camping

Also included here is the small beach resort of Costa del Este, some 2 km south. It has hotels, restaurants and is much quieter. Facilities are included under those for Mar del Tuyú.

Charges are $I 4 per camping/trailer spot. • Camping El Refugio, Calle 94 near 2; 60 spots • Camping Mar del Tuyú, Calle 94 near 13; 60 spots • Camping Stella Maris, Calle 3 between 56 and 57 @ 420486; 160 spots

A Festivals •

Stella Maris, patron saint: February

E Eating out

B Tourist information •

Meals cost from $8.00 Restaurants • El Golpe, Calle 2 between 72 and 73 • Español, Calle 3 between 57 and 58 • Gol, Calle 3 near 57 • La Riojana, Calle 1 near 74 • Rocío, Calle 58 near 2 • Zuiz, Calle 1 near 74 Cafeterías • El Colonial, Calle 73 between 1 and 2 • Pepe’s, Calle 79 near 1 • Playa Verde, Calle 73 between 1 and 2 • Pueblo Bar, Calle 2 between 75 and 76

Secretaría de Turismo, Avenida Costanera 8001 (Town hall) @ 420387 fax 420296 ext. 40/49

C Accommodation

Hotel Santa Rosa, Avenida Costanera near 68 AELPV @ 420475 $H 1 • Hostería Campamento Turístico, Calle 76–140 $I 1 A Hospedaje Romero, Calle 58 near 2 LP $I 1 B Hospedaje del Muelle, Calle 76–162 $I 1 B Hostería Playa Verde, Calle 73–149 @ 420049 $I 1 Accommodation in Costa del Este • Apart Hotel Terrazas al Mar, Las Amapolas near 2 @ 423117 • Apart Hotel Lomas del Pinar, Avenida Interbalnearia between 4 and 5 @ 430544 • Apart Hotel Playa Palace, Costanera between 6 and 7 @ (02246) 420292 *

Eating out in Costa del Este • Heladería Sol del Este, Costanera 309 • Restaurant Bernadito, Costanera between 2 and 3

n Entertainment

• •

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Disco The Block, Calle 2 near 72 Disco Chango, Calle 74 between 2 and 3

Mar del Tuyú

PAMPA PROVINCES I Post and telegraph •

Francisco de las Carreras near Libertador San Martín. • Buenos Aires (5 hrs); 4 daily

Post office: Correo Argentino, Calle 2–7443 Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Calle 73–149 (between Calle 1 and Calle 2)

•

p Sightseeing

•

S Buses

•

Bus companies for buses to Buenos Aires, La Plata, and Mar del Plata are located on

Estatua de Cristo. A six metre tall statue of Christ made of Carrara marble Museo de Numismatica, Calle 4–6337

MIRAMAR

Miramar Population: 20 000 Postal code: 7607 @ area code: (02291) Distances From Buenos Aires: 450 km south on RN 2 • From Mar del Plata: 45 km south on RP 11 • From Necochea 102 km east on RP 88 then south-east on RN 77 •

M

iramar is a major seaside vacation resort with good tourist facilities and lovely beaches. It was founded in 1888. The town is laid out in the familiar chess-board fashion and the streets are numbered as in La Plata. Although

Key to map A C D E H I $ T

Iglesia Parroquial San Andrés Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica de Argentina Hospital Municipal EGATUR Tourist information Banco de la Provincia Bus terminals

3 Accommodation 3 5 6 9 16 17 19 20 22 23 24 25 28 29 30 31

Hospedaje Familia Hostería Platamar Hospedaje Costa Azul Hospedaje Méndez Hospedaje La Ramie Hotel Ardillita Hospedaje Las Brusquitas Hotel Turingia Hotel Embassy Hostería Lely Hotel Santa Eulalia I Hostería Cristal Hotel Nuevo Luxor Hotel América Hotel Arenas Hostería Riviera

Miramar

32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 52 53 54 55 56 58 59

Hotel Carolina Hospedaje Filadelfia Hostería Santa Rita Hospedaje San Miguel Hotel Castilla Hospedaje Select Hotel Domani Hotel Las Cibeles Hotel Miramar Hospedaje Ocean Hospedaje Arostegui Hotel San Francisco Hotel San Ignacio Hotel El Logroñes Hotel Gran Rex Hotel San Sebastián Hotel Palace Hotel Montecarlo Hostería Touring Hotel Castelar Hotel Ideal Hotel España Hotel Gran Hotel Hispania

4 Eating out 2 8

Restaurant Lisboa Restaurant El Águila

168

14 Cafetería Mi Refugio 18 Restaurant Círcolo Italiano 27 Restaurant Mav 42 Restaurant Calahorra 50 Restaurant Costa Brava

5 Entertainment 11 12 21 57

Miramar Squash Cine Atlántico Casino Miramar Anfiteatro

7 Tour operators and rent a car 15 Panda Viajes 51 Avis Rent a Car

0 Services 1 4 7 10 13

Railroad station Credicorp Farmacia del Pueblo Banco de la Nación Taller de Cerámica Artística 26 Paseo del Artesano

BUENOS AIRES prices rise during the summer months it is still cheaper than other seaside resorts. Paseo Costanero is a wide Avenida with the beach on one side and high-rise apartment blocks and hotels on the other. The beach front is set against a backdrop of cliffs. 77

1

To Mar del Sur

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30 PRES. GRAL. JOSE F. URIBURU 14

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Playa Miramar

169

Miramar

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Miramar Hotels *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

América, Diagonal B Mitre 1114 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Hotel Gran, Calle 29–586 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Palace, Calle 23–774 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Ardillita, Calle 28–671 AEFGJLPSUV Carolina, Calle 11–1114 AEFGJLPSUV Castelar, Calle 12–1331 AEFGJLPSUV Continental, Calle 19–1168 AEFGJLPSUV Domani, Calle 9–1034 AEFGJLPSUV Gran Rex, Calle 23–805 AEFGJLPUV Lu-Gra, Diagonal Cincuentenario (Illia) 856 AEFGJLPUV Montecarlo, Calle 16–1050 AEFGJLPUV Nuevo Luxor, Calle 23–1126 AEFGJLPUV Santa Eulalia I, Calle 26–851 AEFGJLPSUV Turingia, Calle 28–1060 AEFGJLPUV Arenas, Calle 24–1110 AELPV Castilla, Calle 21–1032 AELPV Costanera, Costanera 1771 AELPV Cris–Car, Calle 17–1434 AELPV El Logroñes, Calle 25–863 AELPV Embassy, Calle 26–913 AELPV España, Calle 14–1046 AELPV Evans, Calle 19–1353 AELPV Hispania, Calle 12–1482 AELPV Ideal, Calle 21–632 AELPV Las Cibeles, Calle 18–1155 AELPV Miramar, Calle 21–974 AELPV San Francisco, Calle 9–922 AELPV San Ignacio, Calle 16–1329 AELPV San Sebastián, Calle 29–745 AELPV Santa Eulalia II, Calle 15 near Calle 20 AELPV

Hosterías ** * * * * *

Lely, Calle 26 881 Cristal, Calle 26 743 Platamar, Calle 36–926 Riviera, Calle 22–853 Santa Rita, Calle 25–1051 Touring, Calle 27–669

Hospedaje A A A A A B B B B B B B B

Filadelfia, Calle 9–1185 La Ramie, Calle 28–783 Las Brusquitas, Calle 26–1431 Maricel, Calle 19–1405 Méndez, Calle 23–1507 Arostegui, Calle 18–933 Cervantes, Calle 30–907 Colonial, Calle 19–1165 Costa Azul, Calle 21–1684 Familia, Calle 23–1701 Ocean, 9 de Julio 967 San Miguel, Calle 22–1146 Select, Calle 23–1031

Miramar

AEFGJLPUV AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV LP LP LP LP LP

170

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

420847 420358 420258 420024 420925 420796 420895 420978 420942

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

420547 420469 421811 420808 420526 420837 420938 420662 420232 420932 420788 420368 420168 420217 420269 420489 421617 421481 420254 420471 420091

@ @ @ @

420134 420118 421186/88 421173

@

420898

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420444 420641

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420365

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420671 420783 420894 420310

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BUENOS AIRES Accommodation in Miramar — continued @

B Victoria, Calle 26–1150 B Villa Cruz, Calle 19–864

420603

$J $J

1 1

Accommodation in Las Brusquitas RN 11 **

Motel Copacabana,

AEFGJLPUV

B Tourist information •

n Entertainment

EGATUR, Avenida 28 near 21 @ 420190 fax 420751

During the summer holidays local music groups give free concerts/performances in the amphitheater located in the park land on the north side of Arroyo Las Brusquitas. • Casino Miramar, Calle 21 between 26 and 28. Open daily 21:00–03:00. Twelve roulette tables, poker machinese. Also a bar and confitería, dancing nightly • Cine Gran Rex, Calle 2 between 18 and 20 • Cine Atlántico, Calle 21 between 30 and 32 • Disco Aramaçao, Avenida Costanera near 37 • Disco Boy Cott, Avenida Costanera between 35 and 37 • Disco In Touch, Avenida Costanera near 35 • Disco Opus, Avenida 9 near Calle 24 • Disco Prahia, Avenida 9 between 22 and 24 • Bar/Restaurant Jet-Set, Avenida Costanera 1629. Dancing

D Camping

Charges: $J 1 per day Camping El Durazno, RP 11 KM 4 • @ 420343/423651. Restaurant

E Eating out

& & & &

&

Restaurants • Calahorra, Calle 20–1020. Vegetarian cuisine • Círcolo Italiano, Avenida 9–1485 near Calle 28. Italian cuisine • Costa Brava, Avenida 23–799 • El Aguila, Calle 19–1629 near 32 • El Fogón, Calle 19–1181 • El Muelle, Avenida Costanera near 37 • Jockey Club, Calle 21–1301 near Avenida 26 • La Cautiva, Calle 19 near Calle 24 • La Costa, Avenida 9 and Calle 12 • Lisboa, Avenida 40–830 • Mavi, Avenida 9–1232 • Punto y Banca, Diagonal Fortunato de la Plaza 1426 Pizzerías • Astral, Calle 21 near Avenida 26 Galería Casino • Pizzilandia, Calle 21 near Calle 14

I Post and telegraph

• •

Cafeterías • Charly, 9 de Julio and Calle 18 • Las Gaviotas, 9 de Julio near Calle 22 • Mi Refugio, 9 de Julio 1439 near Calle 28 • Petit Café, Avenida Costanera near Calle 21 • Sitges, 9 de Julio near Calle 22 • Tabac, 9 de Julio near Calle 26 • Talamanca, 9 de Julio and Calle 20 • Via Veneto, 9 de Julio near Diagonal Fortunato de la Plaza

Post office: Correo, Calle 17 near Calle 32 Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, Diagonal Fortunato de La Plaza 1451

L Financial

• • •

Cambio Casa Fortuna, Calle 21 between 24 and 26 Ibertur, Calle 21 between 18 and 20 Banco de la Provincia, Calle 21–1209 near Calle 24 @ 420829. ATM

M Services and facilities

• •

Pharmacy: Farmacia del Pueblo, Calle 21–1598 Hospital Municipal, Diagonal J.M.Dupuy

Bicycle hire • Avenida 23 near 24

171

Miramar

PAMPA PROVINCES S Buses from Miramar Bus terminals There are several private bus terminals, all within easy walking distance from each other. Bus terminal at Avenida Mitre (Avenida 23) near Avenida 34 @ 423359 • Compañía Argentina de Turismo C.A.T. ° Buenos Aires via Monte Grande, Remedios de Escalada, Bánfield, Lomas, Turdera, Temperley, Adrogué, and Lanús • El Rápido del Sur runs buses between Miramar and Mar del Plata and along the coast) • Expreso Mar del Sur ° Claromecó via Mar del Sur and Necochea Other companies departing from this terminal are: Micro Mar, Expreso Paraná, Liparotti, Unión del Sur, Expreso Córdoba–Mar del Plata, El Alba Bus terminal at Diagonal Fortunato de la Plaza 1598 near Avenida 19 @ 423645 • Costera Criolla, El Pampa Bus terminal at Diagonal Fortunato de la Plaza 1678 @ 420780 • El Cóndor Bus terminal at Avenida Mitre between 20 and 22 • El Serrano ° San Fernando via Mar del Plata, Ciudadela, San Martín, Vicente López, Olivos, and San Isidro. By-passes Buenos Aires on the outskirts Bus terminal on Fortunato de la Plaza between 15 and 17 Agencia Tomy @ 421338 • Andesmar ° Mendoza via General Pico, Realicó, General Alvear, San Rafael, and Tunuyán • Compañía Argentina de Turismo C.A.T., Pehuenche, Central Argentino, El Rápido, Unión del Sur, Turismo Parque • El Alba ° San Miguel del Monte via, Hurlingham, San Justo, and Lomas del Mirador • Rutamar Long-distance services • • • • •

Destination Bahía Blanca Bariloche Buenos Aires Córdoba La Plata

• • • •

Mar del Plata Necochea Neuquén Zapala

Fares $80.00 $30.00

Services 5 daily 10 daily 1 daily 5 daily 5 daily 1 daily 1 daily

Duration Company El Pampa El Rápido, Mercedes 8 hrs C.A.T., Micromar, Rutamar Expreso Mar del Plata–Córdoba El Rápido Argentino, La Puntual, Costera Criolla El Rápido del Sur, El Serrano Costera Criolla Unión del Sur, El Rápido Unión del Sur

U Motoring

T Trains

The F C General Roca station is on the corner of Avenida San Martín (Avenida 40) and Calle 13. There are no more trains but a daily automotor service connects with El Atlántico in Mar del Plata.

Car Rentals • Avis Rent a Car, Calle 21–710 Service stations • A.C.A., Diagonal Fortunato de la Plaza 1733

Miramar

172

BUENOS AIRES Y Shopping

p Sightseeing

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Avenida 26 between 21 and 23 is called Paseo del Artesano. Here local artists display and sell their work of arts made of leather, wood, metal and ceramics. • Taller de Cerámica Artística, Calle 23–1478. Guided tour through workshops

a Sport • •

• • • •

•

Boat hire: Club Náutico Miramar, Espigon 1 Golf: Golf Club Miramar, RP 11, corner of Calle 37 and Calle 20, 7 km north of the city center @ (02291) 421275 Horse riding: Caballeriza Don Olguín, Calle 16 near 47 Horse riding: Asociación Tradicionalista Gauchos del Sur, Avenida 40 near 57 Squash: Miramar Squash, Calle 30–1061 Tennis: ATC, Calle 22 between 45 and 47

Parque Dunícola Florentino Ameghino (Florentino Ameghino Dune Park), situated on Avenida 37. This partially forested 50 ha (124 acre) portion of land previously consisted solely of dunes. Now it almost looks like a natural forest, harboring many species of birds. It is popular with cyclists Museo Municipal General Alvarado (Municipal General Alvarado Museum), in the Vivero Dunícola Florentino Ameghino (Florentina Ameghino Dune Nursery). On display are early inhabitants’ stone tools, and fossilized bones of prehistoric animals found in the area

s Excursions Tour operators • Panda Viajes, Diagonal Fortunato de la Plaza 1452 @ 430517 • Reach out Tours, Calle 28 near 21 @ 421199; also car rental Excursions • Mar del Sur: 16 km south. See page 166 • Laguna La Ballena: Halfway between Miramar and Mar del Sud is a coastal lake of 36 ha (89 acre), a little less than 1 km from the beach

Fishing • Muelle de Pescadores Deportivos, a jetty for anglers on the corner of Avenida Costanera and Avenida 37 • Laguna La Ballenera, on the road to Mar del Sur. Fishing and boating

MONTE HERMOSO

Monte Hermoso Population: 3500 @ Area code: (0921) Distance from Buenos Aires: 632 km south on RN 3 and RP 78

M

onte Hermoso is the southernmost highly developed beach resort in Buenos Aires Province. The dunes have been planted extensively with pine trees. There are 32 km of quiet, unspoilt beaches and good facilities. The water is supposed to be warmer than the beaches further north due to a warm current coming down from Brazil. It attracts many campers. After the summer vacation it is fairly quiet.

A Festivals

The hub of town with most shops and cafés is in Avenida Faro Recalada.

• •

173

Triatlón de Monte Hermoso: January Las 24 horas de Monte Hermoso, fishing competition: January

Monte Hermoso

PAMPA PROVINCES To Bahía Blanca

RÍO TEUCO

CHACABUCO

CNEL DORREGO

RÍO PARANÁ

AVE. FARO RECALADA

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A C D E H I T $

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Iglesia Stella Maris Municipalidad Correo Argentino Cooperativa Telefónica Hospital Secretaría de Turismo Bus Terminal Banco de la Provincia Accommodation Eating out Entertainment Sights

Playa de Monte Hermoso

Mar Argentino

MONTE HERMOSO •

Wind-surfing competition in Laguna Sauce Grande: February

B Tourist information •

E Eating out

Secretaría de Turismo, Cultura y Deportes, Avenida Faro Recalada near Pedro de Mendoza @ 481123 fax 481047

Meals cost from $Y. Restaurants • Cabalito Blanco, Valle Encantado 91. Parrilla • Cervecería Alemana, Avenida Argentina 129 • Copo de Espuma, Valle Encantado 141. Parrilla • Cher, Int. Majluf 239. Parrilla

D Camping

Charges are $J per person. • Complejo Turístico Americano, Faro Recalada @ 481194. $H 4. Restaurant

Monte Hermoso

Autocamping Hipocampo, Avenida Dufour. Capacity: 80 tents. Restaurant

174

BUENOS AIRES C Accommodation in Monte Hermoso

The majority of hotels and other accommodation close in the off season. Hotels ** America, Valle Encantado 91 AEFGJLPUV ** Americano, Faro Recalada 341 AEFGJLPUV Right on the beach ** España, P de Mendoza near Avenida Argentina AEFGJLPUV ** Maga, Chascomús 335 AEFGJLPUV ** Savoy, Los Pinos 42 AEFGJLPUV * Ameghino, Valle Encantado 60 AELPV * Broca I formerly Barrio, Dufour and Neuquén * Caprí, Faro Recalada 599 AELPV * Cavismar, Avenida Presidente Perón AELPV * Santa Isabel, Bahía Blanca 55 AELPV

@

481005

$G

2

@

481007

$G

2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

481026 481128 481052 481098 481075 481229 481072 481030

$F $F $F $G $G $G $G $G

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

@ @

481142 481313

$E $H

2 2

@ @ @ @ @

481093 481713 481233 481207 481122

$G $G $G

2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @

481478 481478 481223 481003 481195

$I

1

Hosterías

***La Goleta, Avenida President Perón near Calle 10 ACDEFGJKLPSUVY ** Altea, Avenida Argentina 830 AEFGJLPUV * Florida, Bahía Blanca near Río Colorado AELPSV * Hermitage, Faro Recalada AELPV * Monte Hermoso, Faro Recalada 1097 AELPV * Otto Kundt, Faro Recalada 401 AEFLPV * Romanos, Avenida Argentina 342 AELPV

Hospedajes A A A A A

Ambar, Dufour 210 Costa Azul, Chacabuco 365 Mary-Car, Antonio Costa 58 Paco’s, Valle Encantado 59 Pecmar, Río Colorado 445

LP LP LP LP LP

•

n Entertainment

Danny, Pedro de Mendoza near Avenida Argentina. Parrilla • La Brochette, Dorrego near Paraná. Parrilla • La Estancia, Int. Majluf 733. Parrilla • La Rueda, Traful Bis near Los Pinos • Las Carabelas, Dufaur near Presidente Perón. Parrilla • Pizza Jet, Valle Encantado near Int. Majluf. Parrilla • San Gabriel, Valle Encantado 42. Parrilla Cafeterías, Bars • Margarita Pub, Avenida Faro Recalada near Dorrego • Phono Bar, Faro Recalada 150 • Via Appia, Dufaur 155

• • • • •

Casino, Avenida Pedro de Mendoza near Río Teuco. Open from 1 November–30 April. 10 roulette tables Disco Aranjuez, Dorrego 256 near Avenida Faro Encalada and Paraná Disco Gitanes, Neuquén 54 Disco Stand Up, Valle Encantado near Las Dunas Cine Atlántida, Los Pinos 48

I Post and telegraph

• •

Post office: Valle Encantado 55 Telephone: Cooperativa Telefónica, Pedro de Mendoza 268

L Financial

• •

175

Cambio Coronel Dorrego, Avenida Dufaur near Las Dunas Banco de la Provincia, Paraná 43

Monte Hermoso

PAMPA PROVINCES •

S Buses

The bus terminal is in Faro Recalada near Pedro de Mendoza. • La Estrella–El Cóndor runs 1–2 services daily to Buenos Aires (9 hrs) • Andesmar @ 481089 runs 1 service weekly to Mendoza (201 2 hrs), • TICSA, La Acción @ 481188 runs daily services to Bahía Blanca, less frequently in winter • El Zorzal to Santa Rosa in La Pampa Province

•

•

p Sightseeing

Museo Municipal de Ciencias Naturales, Avenida Costanera between Patagonia and Avenida Dufaur.

s Excursions •

•

L a g u n a S a u c e G r a n d e : 10 km north-east. Water sports, good pejerrey fishing, swimming and sailing; on the peninsula are barbecue areas; there is also an hostería Faro Recalada (Recalada Lighthouse), with a beam reaching a distance of 30 km

Extensive dune formations east of town which extend for 3 km inland. Most of them are still shifting. In some of the dune valleys there are pockets of water which are covered with reeds and attract wildlife El Pisadero. This is an archeological site with remains dating back 7000 year. Tours are organized by the Museo Municipal de Ciencias Naturales Estancia La Sirena, RN 3 KM 25: The main building was built in 1906. The estancia covers an area of 25 000 ha (61 776 acres). The immediate area around the Residencial building is lush and green: vines, palms and eucalyptus trees. For guests there are 9 rooms to let. The owners also have a small museum which consists of small arms and memorabilia of General Roca

NECOCHEA

Necochea • From Buenos Aires: 500 km south on RN 3 then RN 86 • From Bahía Blanca: 336 km north-east on RN 223 then RN 228

N

ecochea is located on the coast on a 72 km beach. For 24 km this beach comes under the city’s direct jurisdiction, before it continues northward across the river into Necochea’s sister city Quequén. Founded in 1881, Necochea had a troubled early history, and Indian raids led by Chief Calfucura delayed its advance considerably. Over the last 20 years or so it has attracted a steadily-growing number of tourists, and now over 100 000 vacationers visit Necochea each summer. It is probably the largest seaside resort after Mar del Plata. Necochea can be reached from Buenos Aires by road, rail, and air. It virtually closes during the

Necochea

off-season, but comes to life from December to early March. The city consists of two main parts: the civic center with its Municipalidad, and the beach front (Villa Díaz Vélez), where most of the tourist facilities are concentrated. The tourist complex with a casino, swimming pools, cafés, night club, and sports facilities is located here. Necochea has excellent hotels and restaurants, as well as many large parks and recreational areas. The

176

BUENOS AIRES To Juárez 228

N TÍ R A M N A S . IB .L VE A

NECOCHEA 3

UR

UG

U AY

58 AVE. D.F. SARMIENTO Dardo Rocha

9

a

N W RO

Qu

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T

én

AL

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NECOCHEA CENTRO

56 9 DE JULIO

54 RIVADAVIA

N 52 DORREGO To beach area

Key to map

nd e

ATLANTIC OCEAN

M

B E.

C E

10

To Mar del Pl ata

ec o

Río

ya N

Plaza

D

88 Pla

7 6

53 J.B. ALBERDI

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4

55 ROCA

TA L

60 B. MITRE

3

57 V. DE LA CANAL

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5

$

AVE. C. PELLEGRINI

REP . O R

62 BELGRANO

59 AVE. ALSINA

VE.

2

63 PAUNERO

10 A

64 BALCARCE

65 E.B. MORENO

22 AMADEO MUÑOZ

To Claromecó

228

61 A. MURGA

N

AVE . C. PELL EGRINI 59 AVE . FIGUEROA ALCORTA

58 AVE . D.F. SARMIENTO

To Bahía Blanca RAIL STATI ON

NECOCHEA 2

AVE . V. SARS FIELD

To Tres Arroyos

N E C OC H E A MET R O P OL I TA NA

A C D E $ T

hub of the beach front is the mall on Calle 83, which is lined with cafés and shops.

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica de Argentina Banco de la Provincia Bus terminal

3 Accommodation

Quequén

2 Hospedaje Colón 4 Hospedaje Solchaga 10 Hotel Acapulco

Only a few kilometers north across the Río Quequén Grande (which in spite of its name is rather small) is another beach resort, Quequén. Quequén has a population of 15 000; it is also a port city. Argentina’s first casino was established here and for a long time was the preferred seaside resort for the rich. Along the port are some old mansions. An excellent beach stretches north from Quequén for several kilometers. The harbor is silting up and requires frequent dredging. The facilities in Quequén are included under the appropriate headings in Necochea.

4 Eating out 7 8

Cafetería Mi Cantina Restaurant Centro Vasco

5 Entertainment 3 9

Cine París Centro Cultural

6 Airline offices 5

LAPA

0 Services 1 6

Ferrobaires train station Casa de Cambio Aloña

Arenas Verdes is located 19 km north of Necochea reached via RP 88; the turnoff is 12 km north. This is an isolated spot with small dunes which are covered with sparse grass, hence the name. On top of one of the small dunes is a Santuario to Santa Teresita. There is only a shop. The council has

Neighboring resorts Also included here are the fledgling seaside resorts of Arenas Verdes, San Cayetano and Costa Bonita.

177

Necochea

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Necochea Accommodation in the town center Hotels **

Acapulco, Calle 52–2950 Near railway station

Hospedajes

A Colón, Calle 62–3034 Near bus terminal A Solchaga, Calle 62–2822 Near bus terminal

AEFGJLPUV

LP ELP

@

423210

$H

2

@

424825

$J

1

@

425584

$H

2

Accommodation on the beach front Only a handful of hotels are open outside the tourist season. Hotels **** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * *

ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 436228 fax Atlántico, Calle 2–4022 @ 423303 Bahía, Avenida San Martín 731 ACDEFGJKLPTUVWY @ 423353 España, Calle 89–215 AEFGJLPSUV @ 422896 Infriccioli, Calle 4–4335 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVWY@ 425563 León, Calle 79–229 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: [email protected] @ 424800 fax Milesi, Calle 79–373 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 425387 Necochea, Calle 79–217 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail:[email protected] @ 433255 fax Perugia, Calle 81–288 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 422020 fax San Martín, Calle 6–4198 near 85 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 422042 San Miguel, Calle 85–301 near Calle 6 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: [email protected] @ 425155 fax Tres Reyes, Calle 4 bis 4123 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 422011 Argentino, Calle 87–293 near Calle 6 AEFGJLPSUV @ 423661 fax Celeste, Diagonal San Martín 696 AEFGJLPUV @ 425206 Compostela, Calle 75–374 AEFGJLPSUVW @ 423924 Continental, Avenida 10 near 85 AEFGJLPUVW @ 423394 Corona, Calle 75–371 AEFGJLPUV @ 422646 Derhua, Calle 79–821 AEFGJLPUV @ 421137 fax Emperador, Calle 6–4052 AEFGJLPSUV @ 422421 Esthor, Calle 87–383 AEFGJLPSUVW @ 425338 Horizonte, Calle 85–375 AEFGJLPUV @ 423344 Hostal del Rey, Calle 81–335 AELPVW @ 425170 Internacional, Calle 81–232 AEFGJLPSUV @ 424587 Marino, Calle 79–251 near Calle 4 AEFGJLPUV @ 422140 Mar y Cielo, Calle 8–4366 AEFGJLPSUV @ 423338 Miami, Calle 85–233 AEFGJLPSUV @ 423275 Santa Clara, Calle 8–4331 AELPV @ 423850/8 Sari Mar, Calle 8–4351 AEFGJLPUV @ 424381 Trocadero, Calle 81–279 AEFGJLPSUVW @ 422589 Almirante, Calle 85–236 AELPV @ 425151 Alvarez Palace, Calle 79–304 near Calle 6 AELPV @ 423667 Asturias, Diagonal San Martín 842 AELPV @ 424524 Avenida, Calle 79–386 AELPV Fax 426963 @ 423718 Bambi, Calle 83–323 AELPV @ 438480 Presidente, Calle 4–4040

Necochea

178

$F/G 2 $H/I $F $H

2 2 2

$F 2 $G/H 2 $F 2 $G/H 2 $G/H 2 $G/H $G $H $H $H $H $G $H $H $H $H $H $F $H/I $G $H $H/I $H/I $H $I

2 2 1 2 1 1 2 2 1 1 1 1 2 1 2 1 1 1 1 1

$I $I

1 1

$I $H

1 2

BUENOS AIRES Accommodation in Necochea — continued * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Bell Mar, Calle 79–364 AELPV Bibbione, Calle 89–376 AELPV Brisamar, Calle 83–336 AELPV Campomar, Calle 81–385 AELPV Ca-Ra-Ma, Calle 77–237 AELPV Castilla, Calle 4–3727 AELPV Doramar, Calle 83–329 AELPV Flamingo, Calle 83–333 AELPSV Gavin, Avenida San Martín 789 AELPV Gran Avenida, Avenida 10–4146 AELPV Hermitage, Calle 8–3825 AELPSV Italia, Calle 20–4050 AELPV Las Nieves, Diagonal San Martín 1096 AELPV Libertador, Calle 8–3850 AELPV Lido, Calle 81–328 AELPV Mar Azul, Calle 6–3762 AELPV María Paula, Calle 4–3927 AELPV Montecarlo, Calle 85–335 AELPV Monte Polino, Calle 6–3963 AELPV Neptuno, Calle 81–212 AELPV Plaza, Calle 85–277 AELPV Riviera, Calle 8–3935 AELPV Sandra, Diagonal San Martín 1115 AELPV Santander, Calle 83–877 AELPV Suizo, Calle 22–4235 AELPV Windsor, Calle 4–3957 AELPV Zure-Echea, Calle 79–355 AELPVW

Hosterías *** *** *** ** ** * *

Del Bosque, Calle 89–350 Posta Carretas, Calle 79 bis 369 E-mail: [email protected] Río Colorado, Calle 4–3855 Nuevo Casino, Calle 87–375 Ruca-Lauquen, Calle 8–4271 Las Olas, Calle 79–333 Nancy, Calle 75–368

ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY ACDEFGPTUVW AELPSV AELPV AELPV AELPSV

Hospedajes A A A A A

Bayo, Calle 87–388 LP City, Calle 81–237 LP Firenze, Calle 4–4356 LP Las Malvinas, Diagonal San Martín 1141 LP Necomar, Calle 20 near Calle 79 bis LP

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

423673 424678 424909 423915 425540 421004 425815 420049 427120 423390 423925 425660 431058 423918 fax 423508 425284 423903 425959 425928 422653 427295 425596 422584/5 427090 424008 423171 422167

$I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I $I

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@

420002

@ @ @ @ @ @

424499 425514 423846 426413 425197 424731

$G

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423334 423768 421114 424035 422689

$J $J $J $J $I

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Accommodation in Quequén *

Hotel Eclipse de Luna, Calle 512 near 519 AELPV

Accommodation in Costa Bonita *

Hostería Dunas, Avenida Costanera Tennis courts

AELPRV

179

@

(02262)421838

Necochea

PAMPA PROVINCES B Tourist information

installed free showers for the campers. For outdoor enthusiasts only. San Cayetano is located 40 km south of Necochea and is reached via RP 228. The turnoff is 25 km south. On the road is Laguna Salada; as the name implies it is a salt-water laguna, however pejerrey fishing is possible. Here in San Cayetano there are already some vacation houses and some serviced camping areas. Costa Bonita is located 10 km north of Quequén and can be reached on a coastal road which is sealed part of the way; this is the scenic route. On route you go past an old homestead which is now completely covered by sand. There is a small colony of vacation homes and an hostería with 24 rooms and a salt water swimming pool.

•

D Camping

Charges are $J per person. • Camping Parque Miguel Lillo, Avenida 2 near Calle 101 near Lago de los Cisnes(“Swan Lake”). Capacity: 350 tents; restaurant • Camping Puelches, Calle 111 near 32. Capacity 170 tents; restaurant. Open December–March • Camping Río Quequén, Calle 2 on the banks of the river also with cabins $G for 4 Camping in Quequén • Camping Doble J, Calle 502 near 529. Capacity 190 tents. Restaurant • Camping El Gringo, Calle 519–901. Capacity 50 tents. Restaurant Camping in San Cayetano Charges are $J per person. • Camping Municipal • Camping Club de Pesca y Caza La Boya

A Festivals • •

Virgen del Carmen: July 16 Fishermen’s week: February

Key to map I

Secretaría de Turismo de Necochea

3 Accommodation 1 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

10 11 12 13 14 15 18 19 20

Hotel Suizo Hotel Gran Avenida Hotel Santander Hotel Italia Hotel Mar y Cielo Hotel Libertador Hotel Bibbione Hotel Sari Mar and Hotel Santa Clara Hotel Esthor and Hostería Nuevo Casino Hospedaje Bayo Hostería Ruca-Lauquen Hotel Horizonte Hotel Montecarlo and Hotel San Miguel Hotel Bambi and Hotel Flamingo, Hotel Doramar Hotel Brisamar Hotel Emperador Hotel Campomar

Necochea

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 39 40 41 42 43

Secretaría de Turismo de Necochea, Avenida 2 near 79 @ 438333 fax 430158. Also at the bus terminal

Hotel Hostal del Rey Hotel Lido Hotel Riviera Hotel Milesi and Hostería Las Olas and Hotel Zure-Echea Hotel Bell Mar and Hotel Avenida Hotel Alvarez Palace Hotel Hermitage Hotel Mar Azul Hotel Corona Hotel Compostela and Hostería Nancy Hotel Argentino Hospedaje Firenze Hotel Plaza Hotel Miami Hotel Almirante Hotel Presidente Hospedaje City Hotel Trocadero Hotel Neptuno and Hotel Internacional Hotel Perugia

180

44 Hotel Monte Polino 45 Hotel Marino 46 Hotel León and Hotel Necochea 47 Hotel Real 48 Hotel Ca-Ra-Ma 51 Hotel Infriccioli 52 Hotel Windsor 53 Hotel María Paula 54 Hotel Castilla

4 Eating out 2 17 36 37 38

Restaurant La Fusta Restaurant La Reja Cafetería Mein Haus Restaurant La Rueda Cafetería Café del Paseo, Cafetería El Galeón 50 Restaurant Casino

5 Entertainment 16 Cine Ocean 49 Casino

BUENOS AIRES To Centro LLE AVA 24 L

22 A

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20 A

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URU RIB .F. U J 8 1

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10 AV. REPÚBLICA ORIENTAL DEL URUGUAY

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75 AVE. G. QUIROGA

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13 11

77 HORNOS

79 ABASOLO

8 A. FAGGIOLI 9 12

81 M. MORENO

83 A. BUTTI

85 GARCÍA LANDERO

87 USPALLATA

89 RICCHIERI

Parque Miguel Lillo

6

30

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17 14

22

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16 19

6 R.S. PEÑA

44 31

33

41 43

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34

4 J.M. ESTRADA 51

36 35 37

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53

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50 49 2 AVE. 25 DE MAYO

I

N

Playa de Necochea

NECOCHEA BEACHES

181

Necochea

PAMPA PROVINCES E Eating out

& &

&

&

The food specialty is calamari stuffed with salmon. Meals cost from $Z. Restaurants • Casino, Avenida 2 near 91 Parque Miguel Lillo • Centro Vasco, Calle 65–2601 • Club Huracán, Calle 58–3850 • Club Náutico, near Escollera Sur • Club Rivadavia, Calle 46–2955 • La Barra, Calle 4 between 83 and 85 • La Casona de Rocco, Calle 81 near 8 • La Fusta, Avenida 10–4270 between 85 and 87 • La Reja, Calle 83–334 • La Rueda, Calle 4–4144 • Mar y Cielo, Calle 8–4366 Pizzerías • Don Peppone, Avenida 79 near 8 • El Palacio de la Pizza, Avenida 59 between 62 and 64 Cafeterías • Café del Paseo, Calle 83–230 • El Galeón, Calle 83–262 • Mein Haus, Calle 4 bis–4123

& • Mi Cantina, Calle 57–2760 • Su Cantina, Calle 83–346 Eating out in Quequén Restaurants • El Quincho de Miguel, Almirante Brown near RP 88 • La Posada de la Bahía, Bahía de los Vientos • Los Tres Amigos, Almirante Brown near Martín García

n Entertainment

• • • • • •

Casino, in the tourist complex, Avenida 2 near Calle 89, next to Parque Miguel Lillo Cine París, Avenida 59–2874 Cine Ocean, Calle 83–320 Disco Casting Road, Calle 87 between Calle 4 and 6 Disco Facex, Calle 85 between Calle 6 and 8 Disco Yamo, Calle 85 between Calle 6 and 8

S Buses from Necochea

The bus terminal is on Calle 58 near Avenida Jesuita Cardiel, seven blocks from the city center @ 422470. It has clean rest rooms, a cloakroom, and a cafetería. Bus 502 takes about 20 minutes from the terminal to the beach; fare $0.80. Bus companies • Costera Criolla, @ 425553 • El Cóndor @ 425553 • El Rápido Argentino, Cordóba–Mar del Plata, Central Argentino • Empresa Río Paraná @ 434198 • Pampa S.A. Long-distance services

•

Destination Fare Azul $14.30 Bahía Blanca $16.70 Balcarce $6.60 Bariloche $73.00 Buenos Aires $25.00 Comodoro Rivadavia Córdoba La Plata

• • • • •

Mar del Plata Mendoza Miramar Tandil Viedma

• • • • • •

Necochea

$7.70 $9.70

Services

2 daily 10 daily 2 daily 1 daily 4 daily

Duration Company 4 hrs El Cóndor El Pampa 2 hrs El Rápido Argentino 12 hrs El Rápido Argentino 7 hrs Costera Criolla, El Cóndor 19 hrs Costera Criolla, Córdoba-Mar del Plata 7 hrs Costera Criolla, El Rápido Argentino, El Pampa 2 1 2 hrs El Pampa Andesmar Costera Criolla El Pampa, Río Paraná Transportadora Patagónica

182

BUENOS AIRES I Post and telegraph • •

best in the province. In the club house is a restaurant and confitería- cum-bar.

Post office: Correo Argentino, Avenida 58–3086 Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Calle 61–2432

p Sightseeing

•

L Financial • • •

•

Casa de Cambio Aloña, Avenida 59–2786 Casa de Cambio Diver, Avenida 69–3128 Banco de la Provincia, Calle 64–3000. ATM

s Excursions Tour operators Miles of beaches extend north and south from Necochea and Quequén, interrupted by rocky sea fronts where wind and water erosion have formed caves in the rocks. For those seeking quieter beaches go to Balneario Los Angeles, 30 km south of Necochea. • Tourquesse, Calle 57-2849 @ 423632 fax; e-mail:[email protected] Excursions • Faro de Quequén. Can be reached from the Avenida Marítima. Small admission fee. See excellent views over the town and beaches • Parque Provincial Dunícola Miguel Lillo (Miguel Lillo Provincial Dune Park): Past the tourist complex on Avenida 2 is an area of some 500 ha (1236 acres) which was once sand dunes but has now been planted with trees, mostly conifers. There is a camping spot and an amphitheater seating 8000 • Los Manantiales: 5 km upstream. Good camping spots and fishing • Río Quequén Grande: 13 km upstream small islands in the river force the water to form little waterfalls. An idyllic place. Both sides of the river are lined with trees. Fishing • Balneario Costa Bonita: 14 km north. A small beach resort in Quequén, less crowded than Necochea. Fishing. Take bus 515 from the corner of Avenida 2 and Calle 85, on the beach front; there are six services a day during summer • Fish hatchery: 12 km upstream on Río Quequén Grande, near Puente Ardanaz, the hatchery breeds arco iris trout and pejerrey. Opposite is Parque Cura-Meuco with kiosks serving hot meals • Las Grutas 7.5 km south of Necochea, Punta Negra 12 km south and Cueva

R Air services

The airport is located 12 km north on RP 86. LAPA , Calle 60–3128 @ 428517/426422 runs services to and from Aeroparque Jorge Newbery in Buenos Aires.

U Motoring • • •

Museo Regional Histórico y de Ciencias, Calle 56 Casona Parque Miguel Lillo. Centro Cultural, Calle 54–3062; art gallery

Service station: A.C.A., Avenida 59–2073 Car Rental: Acuario, Diagonal San Martín 1400 @ 430641 Car Rental: Localiza, Diagonal San Martín 1173 @ 424201

T Trains

The Ferrobaires train station is in Quequén Calle 563 near 580. The “Brisas del Mar” departs for Constitución station in Buenos Aires three times per week and takes 11 hours.

a Sport •

Canoeing: Río Quequén Grande. Boat hire • Fishing: Club de Pesca Necochea, Calle 69–2748. From promontories and in Río Quequén Grande • Polo: Estancia La Baguala located 35 km from town is a polo ranch. There is a polo school and accommodation is available • Polo: Estancia La Pandorga, located 7 km from town. Besides polo tuition there are photographic safaris, bird watching and trekking tours are organized. For information: @ (02320) 492078. In Buenos Aires: @ (011) 48211876 fax Sport in Quequén • Golf: Necochea Golf Club, Avenida Antártida Argentina near 575 @ 423468/425819; 18 holes—one of the 183

Necochea

PAMPA PROVINCES •

del Tigre. Leaving Avenida 2 and following the beach you reach an area where the coastal sierra meets the sea. The rocks are heavily eroded. The area is frequented by divers. A small eating place exists here. Further south past Punta Negra is a large cave which is said to have been the hideout of an outlaw. The area is frequented by fishermen. This is a half-day excursion

•

Médano Blanco is a small place some 35 km south of Necochea. As the name implies it has white dune formations along the beach. This is a 4WD excursion. The trip is organized by some tour operators ($30.00 for half day) Day excursions to Miramar, 100 km north, Mar del Plata, 125 km north can be made with regular bus services

OLAVARRÍA

Olavarría Population: 80 000 Postal code: 7400 @ area code: (02284) Altitude: 310 m Distances From Buenos Aires: 350 km south on RN 3 • From Bahía Blanca: 320 km north-east on RP 51 then RP 76 •

O

lavarría is almost exactly in the geographical centre of Buenos Aires Province. The terrain around Olavarría is predominantly flat pampa. A few hills not higher than 280 m stretching from south-east to north-west break the monotony; it is cattle farming country. The first Spaniard to reach this region was Cristóbal Cabral who signed peace treaties with the local Indians in 1741. In 1770 Manuel Pinazzo reconnoitered the area in the company of a friendly Indian chief, Cacique Lincon. In 1828 Fuerte Laguna Blanca was founded and the tribe of Cacique Juan Manuel Catriel settled here. The fort remained the tribe’s property for 50 years. In 1867 Olavarría was founded and for some time was the southernmost outpost of white Argentina. In 1872 the Argentine army, with the help of Indian chief Cipriano Catriel, defeated Calfucura (“Emperor of the Pampas”) at the battle of San Carlos de Bolívar. Once peace was established many immigrants, particularly Wolga Germans, moved here

Olavarría

and began to farm the area from 1879 on. They founded the agricultural settlement of Hinojo 6 km from Olavarría. The descendants of Cacique Manuel Catriel still live in the district. While the area is predominantly agricultural there is some mining activity; in the Sierra Chica the rare red granite is mined.

B Tourist information

•

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Rivadavia 2850 @ 441359 fax 427471

E Eating out Restaurants • Central C.A.E., Lavalle near del Valle • Kapicua, San Martín near Moreno. Pizzería • La Fusta, Necochea near España • La Vicente, V López 2311. Pizzería • Nuevo Alonso, Colonel Suárez 2639 184

BUENOS AIRES C Accommodation in Olavarría Hotels ** ** ** * *

Rohes, Alsina 3235 AEFGJLPSTUV Santa Rosa, Vicente López 2956 AEFGJLPUV Savoy, Moreno 2882 near Belgrano ADEFGHJKLMNPRUVY Fax 423108 Gran Hotel Olavarría, Necochea 3050 AEGHLPTV Centenario, General Paz 3009 AEGHJLPVT

Hospedajes A A A A

Cedro, Pringles 3247 LP El Jardín, Necochea 3286 LP La Posada, Pringles 2767 LP Nuevo Hotel Argentino, Pringles 3001 near Dorrego LP A Rex, Pringles near Cabral LP B Calabria, Del Valle 5182

Cafeterías • Americano, V López 3164 • Cero-Cero, Rivadavia 2938 • Il Tornetto, Alsina near Paseo Ceresito. Piano bar • La Farola, V López near Belgrano • Paris, V López 2700 Eating out in San Jacinto • Restaurant San Jacinto, RP 76. Grill. Place of a decisive battle in 1856 between a confederated Indian army and the Argentine Army

•

I Post and telegraph

•

• •

424232 440810

$G $E

2 2

@ @ @

424326/440500 $F 424016 $G 421860 $G

2 2 2

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421304 420605 421361

$H $H $H

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@ @ @

420729 420729 424870

$H

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2

Rent a car: Localiza, Necochea 3229 @ 443945

T Train

The Ferobaires station is on Pringles near Necochea @ 420616.

a Sport

•

Golf: Club A. Estudiantes (Olavarría), Lavalle near Cortés @ (02284) 427334/ 429244; 18 holes

p Sightseeing

Post office: Correo Argentino, Belgrano 2439 Telephone: Cabina pública, España 2965

S Buses

The bus terminal is in Pringles 3190 @ 420330. • El Rápido @ 444348 • El Serrano, Ave. Ituzaingó 850 @ 420476 • Expreso Córdoba–Mar del Plata, Empresa Liniers, T.A.C., La Estrella Services • Buenos Aires: 16 services daily; 8 hours • Bahía Blanca: 6 services daily • La Plata: 5 services daily

Museo Municipal Etnográfico y de Artes Plásticos “Damaso Arce” (Damaso Arce Municipal Ethnographic and Sculpture Museum). On exhibit are paintings of contemporary Argentinian artists, an anthropological section, and archeological objects

s Excursions

•

•

U Motoring •

@ @

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Service station: Y.P.F., Moreno near Dorrego

185

Sierra Chica: In 1855 a battle took place here between the troops of General Bartolomé Mitre and the Indians under Catriel and Cachul. A granite monolith bearing a plaque has been erected as a memorial of the battle Laguna Blanca Grande: 84 km northwest on RN 226 has a tourist complex frequented by fishermen. Club de Pescadores has restaurant and camping facilities Salto de Piedra on Arroyo Tapalqué. This is a fairly large — and

Olavarría

PAMPA PROVINCES unsuspected in this flat country — waterfall in the hills to the west of town

PEHUAJÓ Postal code: 6450 @ Area code: (02396) Distances Buenos Aires: 370 km north-east on RN 5 • Guaminí 170 km south on RP 65 and RP 86 (page 133) •

P

ehuajó is located in the south-western part of Buenos Aires Province on the main route from Buenos Aires to Santa Rosa in La Pampa Province. •

The main attraction is Laguna Las Melillas; there is also a golf course.

a Sport

C Accommodation •

•

Hotel Piccolini, B. Mitre 434 @ (02396)4703033

•

Hotel Los Nogales, Artigas near Del Valle @ (02396)470862 Hotel Mesón Español, B. Mitre 19 @ (02396)473081 fax

Golf Club Pehuajó. RN 5 KM 365, access to aerodromo

PEHUEN-CÓ

Pehuen-Có Population: 200 Postal code: 8109 @ area code: (02292) Distance from Bahía Blanca: 82 km east on RN 3 and RP 113

T

his is the most southerly of the seaside resorts in Buenos Aires Province . Its Araucanian name points to pampa tribes that inhabited the area before the arrival of the Europeans. Nearby was the Fuerte Pavón which at one time was the frontier post. Although the town was planned in 1937 by a nearby landowner it only took off as planned in 1948. It is best reached from Bahía Blanca by bus. From Buenos Aires there are regular flights and train services to Bahía Blanca; from Bahía Blanca take a bus to Punta Alta and from there to Pehuen Có. The beaches extend for 8 km and are of fine sand forming live dunes; some dunes have been

Pehuen-Có

densely planted with pine and eucalyptus trees. Most of the access roads are also lined with pine trees. This is still a quiet sea side resort with beaches almost belonging to yourself.

C Accommodation **

186

Hotel Cumelcán, Avenida Avelino González AEFGJLPUV

BUENOS AIRES • • •

n Entertainment

Hotel Anay Có, Avenida Fragata Sarmiento 855 $G 2 Hotel Pehuen Có $G 2 Hotel Ruca-Lauquen, Calle 8–4271, 300 m @ 426413 $G 2

• •

I Post and telegraph

•

D Camping • •

El Cielo, Brown 269 Cumelcán

Camping A.T.E., Avenida San Martín between Calle 8 and 10 Camping Bosque Encantado, Avenida Trolón

Post office: Estafeta de Correo, Avenida San Martín near Juncal

S Bus

•

E Eating out

•

Meals cost from $Y. • Restaurant La Toscana, Brown • Restaurant La Barraca, González Martínez between Bouchardo and Espora • Restaurant Hotel Cumelcán

Bus companies running from Bahía Blanca to Punta Alta: La Pampa, La Acción Bus companies running from Punta Alta to Pehuen Có: Ciudad de Punta Alta

a Sport

Fishing is popular. However boats can only be hired in Punta Alta: Luiggi 1506 @ (02932) 422732. $35.00 per person.

PERGAMINO

Pergamino Postal code: 2700 @ area code: (02477) Distance: From Buenos Aires: 221 km west on RN 8

P

ergamino is on the main route to Córdoba via Río Cuarto It has good tourist facilities and a golf course.

C Accommodation ***

• • •

•

Hotel Americano, Merced 418 @ 424868 Hotel Fachinat, Ave. Alsina 440 @ 436327 Hotel Fénicia, Ave. H. Yrigoyen 2 @ 432604 Hotel Richard, Ave. H. Yrigoyen 1001 @ 435611

•

Hotel Terrazas, Ave. h. Yrigoyen 980 @ 421597 Hotel War, Dr. Alem 237 @ 427917

a Sport

•

Golf: Club Sirio Libanés, Avenida Pellegrini @ 423007

PILAR

Pilar Postal code: 1629 @ area code: (02322) Altitude: sea level Distance: From Buenos Aires 60 km west on RN 8

187

Pilar

PAMPA PROVINCES

P

ilar, located a short distance west of the city of Buenos Aires, is the polo and golf capital of Buenos Aires Province: in 1980 the Argentine Polo association established here seven polo fields with automatic sprinkling systems. These polo game facilities were added to the ten already existing golf courses.

C Accommodation •

•

****Golf

Hotel Avectua, R. Levene near northern access road KM 52 @ 431098 Hotel Green, Ramallo 536 @ 431531

•

a Sport

Club Argentino RN 8 KM 4.5 @ (02320) 491190/492218 Highland Park Country Club, Avenida de los Jazmines @ (02320) 470093/470090

Sport in Fátima-Pilar Fátima is just outside the town center. • Pilar Golf Club, RN 8 KM 60.5

Golf • Boca Ratón Golf Club, RP 25 KM 14 @ 427881 • Carmel Country Club, Monseñor De Andrea @ 428709 • Golfer’s Country Club, RP 28 KM 4.5 @ 428787 • Larena Country Club, Intersection RN 8 and RP 6 KM 1.5 @ 490248/302 • Campo de Golf Los Alamos, Calle Garaví @ 470337/470277 • Los Lagartos Country Club, Ruta Panamericana KM 45.5 Acceso Norte @ 470195/339 • Mapuche Country Club, RN 8 KM 47.5 @ 420653/54 • Martindale Country Club Norte S.A., Avenida Juan D. Perón 2375 @ 485760/749 • Mayling Club de Campo, Ruta Panamericana KM 50 @ 429880/95 • Sociedad Hebraica Argentina, RN 8 KM 51.5 @ 427288/94 Sport in Del Viso Located 10 km east on RP 26; postal code: 1669. • Club de Campo Armenia S.A., RN 8 Panamericana KM 35.5 access to Pilar @ (02320) 471148

Sport in Los Cardales Located 25 km north-west; postal code: 2814. • Los Cardales Country Club, Ruta 4 KM 4 @ (02322) 499210 • Campo de Golf La Orquídea, 600 m off RN 6 on Camino Capilla del Señor @ (02322) 492037 Sport in Matheu Located 15 km north on RP 25; postal code: 1627. • Campo Chico Golf Club, Alborada @ (02327) 47666/67/69 Los Cardales Located 20 km south; postal code: 2814. • Los Cardales Country Club, Ruta 4 KM 4 @ (02322) 499210 • Campo de Golf La Orquídea, 600 m off RN 6 on Camino Capilla del Señor @ (02322) 492037 Matheu Located 15 km north; postal code: 1627. • Campo Chico Golf Club, Alborada @ (02327) 47666/67/69

PINAMAR

Pinamar Population: 10 200 Postal code: 7167 @ area code: (02254) Altitude: sea level Distance from Buenos Aires: 322 km south-east on RP 11

P

inamar has nearly 30 km of beaches and good surf. The tourist season runs from December to March; during this time prices tend to rise. Outside the

Pinamar

188

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Iglesia Nuestra Sra de la Paz Municipalidad Correo Argentino Hospital Bus terminal Accommodation Eating out Cinemas

Playa Marbella

MAR ARGENTINO

PINAMAR

season it is rather quiet. The main shopping district is on Avenida Bunge near E. Shaw. Artists display and sell their artefacts opposite the town hall on the corner of Bunge and Shaw during summer. There are scores of shopping centers, the largest being Shopping Atlantic Palace on Avenida Bunge, La Farola in Avenida Constitución near del Lenguado, and Marinas on Avenida Bunge 799. Warmer than usual waters along the Atlantic coast and extensive beaches cou189

Pinamar

PAMPA PROVINCES pled with shallow waters attract many visitors. The dunes behind the beach have been stabilized by planting pine trees. •

Some 7 km further to the south are Ostende and Valeria del Mar, whose facilities are listed here. Local buses connect the small seaside resorts with Pinamar and Villa Gesell; El Rápido Argentino runs services to La Plata. Ostende (postal code: 7167 and @ code: 0254, population: 2200) is closer to Pinamar and can be reached on foot via Simbad El Marino. It was founded in 1913 by, as the name implies, Belgian immigrants. In the hinterland some 24 km west on RP 74, the town of General Madariaga is still steeped in the gaucho tradition. See page 237.

Club Italiano, Eneas near Cazón. International cuisine • Con Estilo Campo, Avenida Bunge near Marco Polo • Don Pepone, Jasón 1055 • El Vasco, Constitución near Júpiter. Seafood • El Vivero, Avenida Bunge near Del Libertador. Vegetarian cuisine • Green Links de Golf, De las Artes near Aromo • Il Garda, Avenida Shaw 132. Italian cuisine • La Carreta, Avenida Bunge near Buen Orden • La Casona del Tío, corner of Libertador and Avenida Bunge. Parrilla • La Escondida, Constitución 948. Parrilla • La Font del Gat, Avenida Bunge 580. International cuisine • La Tranquera de Juan, Avenida Rivadavia 1083. Parrilla • Los Troncos, corner of Avenida Bunge and Shaw. Parrilla • Parada Uno, Avenida Bunge near Shaw • Paxapoga, Avenida Libertador near Avenida Bunge. Seafood • Tante, De las Artes 35 • Tío Enrique, Jupiter 245 near Rivadavia. Parrilla Pizzerías • Pasta Nostra, Avenida Bunge 300. Italian cuisine Cafeterías and confiterías • Café Green, Avenida Bunge 1175 near Shaw • Status Playa, Del Mar near De Las Acacias Eating out in Ostende Meals cost from $Y.

A Festivals • • • •

Election of Miss Pinamar: January Foundation of Pinamar: February; main venue is the golf club in Avenida del Valle Fértil Carnival in Valeria del Mar: February El Caballo Arabe (Arabic horse show) in Cariló: February

B Tourist information • • •

Dirección de Turismo, Avenida Bunge 654 @ 491680/482796, fax 485677. Open 09:00–19:00 Pinamar Web page:www.pinamar. com.ar Cariló Web page:www.webcarilo. com.ar

D Camping Camping in Ostende • Camping Ostende, Avenida La Plata near Cairo. Five km from Pinamar. Capacity: 85 tents. Restaurant

Restaurants • Congos, Belgrano 317 • Gitanillos, Moreno 58 • Hipocampo, Moreno near beach • Tagomago, Brown near beach

E Eating out Restaurants • Armonía, Avenida Shaw near De la Trucha. International cuisine • Club House, Avenida del Valle Fértil near Goleta Independencia. International cuisine

Pinamar

Eating out in Cariló • Cariló Tenis Ranch, Casuarina near Perdiz 190

BUENOS AIRES C Accommodation in Pinamar Apart Hotels

• Agua Marina, Avenida Bunge 1475 • Pinamar Family Resort, De La Lisa 1107 E-mail: [email protected] • Puerto Bunge, Avenida Bunge 999 near Marco Polo S

Cabañas

• Tampu, Jonás near Simbad El Marinero • Tilcara, Marco Polo near Bunge

Hotels **** **** **** **** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** * * * * * *

@

481978/480554 $C

4

@ @

481810 480224

$C

2

@ @

482392 482398

$F $E

2 2

$C

2

$C

2

$C

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2

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Algeciras, Avenida del Libertador Sur 75 @ 485550 Fax 481161 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Arenas, Avenida Bunge 688 between Marco Polo and Simbad @ 482444 Fax 486770 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ del Bosque, Avenida Bunge 1550 near Jupiter @ 482480/84 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ Ocean Village, Ave. Del Mar 1285 E-mail: [email protected] @ 495800 El Bufón del Rey, De Los Delfines 81 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 482323 La Golondrina, Avenida Constitución 590 near Robinson Crusoe Fax 485045 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 482240 Libertador, Jasón 1013 near Avenida Bunge ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 482268 Mojomar, Burriquetas 247 near Acacias 625 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 482345 Novo Siena, Avenida Constitución 456 near Robinson Crusoe ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 482545 Playas Hotel, Avenida Bunge 250 near De La Sirena E-mail:[email protected] ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 482236 Riviera, Avenida del Tuyú 51 near Del Mar ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 482334 Soleado, Sarmiento near Nuestras Malvinas E-mail: [email protected] @ 490340/0201 La Posada del Rey, Avenida del Tuyú 98 near Del Odiseo AEFGJLPUSV @ 482267 Mesón, Avenida Constitución 589 near Robinson Crusoe AEFGJLPUV @ 482237 Viking, Avenida Eolo 199 near Libertador AEFGJLPSUV @ 482330 Berlin, Rivadavia 326 near De las Artes AELPSV @ 482320 Bologna, Jasón 523 Robinson Crusoe and Simbad AELPV @ 482242 Calegari, De las Artes 336 near Mejillón AELPSV @ 482427 Saint James, Avenida Constitución 325 AELPSV @ 482234 Sardegna, Avenida Bunge 1055 near Marco Polo AELPSV @ 482760 Yacanto, Rivadavia 509 near Simbad AELPV @ 482367

Hosterías *** **

Bora Bora, Avenida del Tuyú 441 near Libertador ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY María Fernanda, Rivadavia 675 AEFGJLPUV

191

@ @

482394 482682

Pinamar

PAMPA PROVINCES Accommodation in Pinamar— continued Hospedajes

@ @

482522 484799

$G $G

2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @

486081 482556 483067 486680 482888 486028

$F $G $G $G $G $H

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@

482908

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1

@

486674/5

$H

2

@ @

487171 486110/487373 $H

2

@

488899/488989 fax

@ @ @ @ @

486474 486825 486121 496979 482367

$F $F $G $G $H

2 2 2 2 2

Cariló Soleil, Avellano near beach AELPV Cariló Village, Carpintero near Arrayán AELPV Club Cariló Playa, Avutarda near Lambertiana AELPV

@ @ @

470341 470244 470913

$H $H

2 2

Talara, Laurel near beach ACDEFGJKLPTUVY • Old country Caril, Becasina near A. Del Cielo

@ @

470304/5 470182

$G

2

A Rosemarie, De Las Medusas 1381 near Inea LP A Valle Fértil, Del Cangrejo 1110 near Valle Fértil LP

Accommodation in Ostende Hotels *** ** ** ** ** *

Viejo Hotel Ostende, Biarritz 799 Dubrava, B. de Irigoyen 119 Europa, Belgrano 288 Nitra, Sarandí 299 Olimpia, Aristóbulo del Valle 138 Rambla, Biarritz 16 near P Florida

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AELPV

Youth Hostels

A Albergue Pinamar, Nuestras Malvinas near Sarmiento BEFLP

Accommodation in Valeria del Mar Apart Hotels

La Pérgola, Comodoro Py 53 AELPV Valeria del Sol, Bouchard near Piedrabuena AELPV * Cabañas Valeria Inn, Espora 3069 AELPV • Oro de Sol, Azopardo 298 near Urtubey E-mail: [email protected] * *

Hotels *** ** ** ** *

Open Beach, King 520 Axon Beach, Rivadavia 153 Hamburgo, San Martín 209 Yanet Sol, Azopardo 598 Yacanto, Rivadavia 509

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AELPV

Accommodation in Cariló Apart Hotels * * *

Hotels ***

• • •

n Entertainment

Camelia Sensi, Boyero near Avellano Grundwald, Avenida Divisadero near Cerezo Le Jardin, Aromo near Boyero

There are many discos and pool rooms. The main entertainment center is near the corner of Libertador and Avenida Bunge. • Cine Pinamar, Avenida Bunge 98 • Cine Bahía, Avenida Bunge 98 • Cine Oasis, Avenida Shaw 590 • Disco Bellow, Avenida Bunge 70 • Disco Catalina, Del Tridente near Avenida Bunge

Eating out in Valeria Del Mar Restaurants • Bodensee, Espora 1669 • El Dogma, Cta. Halcón 177 • El Chanquete, Espora 135 • Il Comendatore, Jorge 50 • La Ventola, Ave. Espora 499

Pinamar

192

BUENOS AIRES S Buses from Pinamar

The bus terminal is in Shaw between Del Lenguado and Pejerrey. Bus companies • Alvarez Hnos @ 483988 • Antón @ 482378 • Atlántida-Central Argentino @ 482885; • Córdoba-Mar del Plata @ 482885 • Costamar @ 482885 • El Rápido Argentino • Expreso Alberino @ 482885 • Expreso Paraná @ 485068 • Montemar @ 482885 • Pampa @ 482378 • Río de la Plata @ 482247 • Ruta Atlántica @ 484696 • Ruta Mar 1@ 483988 • Zenit @ 483397 Long-distance services •

Destination Buenos Aires

• •

Córdoba La Plata

• • •

Luján San Clemente del Tuyú Tandil

Services 7 daily

Duration Company 6 hrs Central Argentino, Antón, Río de La Plata, Expreso Paraná Expreso Córdoba–Mar del Plata El Rápido Argentino, Río de La Plata Atlántida El Rápido, Costamar Río Paraná

•

•

Disco Old Ways, Avenida Bunge near Simbad el Marino • Disco Stop, Avenida Shaw near Del Lenguado Entertainment in Ostende • Disco Ku, Quintana near Nuestras Malvinas Entertainment in Valeria del Mar • Casino, RP 11 9 km south of Pinamar at the access road to Valeria del Mar; 25 roulette tables, dancing with live band • Disco Mike’s Tube, Azopardo near Espora

M Services and facilities

• •

•

Aerolíneas Argentinas, Avenida Bunge 799 near Libertador in Galerías Marinas II @ 483299

U Motoring

•

Gas station: Shell Pellegrini near Illía

a Sport

•

Post office: Jasón 524 Telephone office: Telpin, Avenida Shaw near Jasón. Open 06:30–02:00

•

L Financial •

Bicycle hire: Macca, Ave. Constitución 1095 @ 494183 Motorcycle hire: Del Cazón 1261

R Air services

•

I Post and telegraph • •

Red Link, Avenida Shaw near Constitución. ATM

Cambio Negro el Once, Del Lenguado near Avenida Shaw Red Banelco, Avenida Shaw near Jasón. ATM

193

Aero Club Pinamar, RP 74 @ 483522/484297 Golf: Links Pinamar S.A., Avenida del Valle Fértil near Goleta Independencia @ 3111722/1981; 9 holes and 18 holes. Most tournaments are held here in January and February; e-mail: [email protected]

Pinamar

PAMPA PROVINCES •

Swimming: Complejo Balneario Integral C R features a series of connected swimming pools surrounded by palms and flowers. There is a bar in the pool which serves swimmers and sun-bathers alike. The complex also has a sauna, rest rooms, volley-ball fields, a camp site, and a gymnasium. All buildings are set a meter above the beach, so that you have an unobstructed view of the sea. There is an indoor/outdoor restaurant next to the swimming pool. Tents can be hired by the month Club Hípico • Horse-riding: Hipocampus, Avenida Intermédanos near Avenida Bunge • Sport fishing: Big Hobby, Bunge 1095 @ 495063; e-mail: [email protected] • Squash: Pinamar Squash Rackets, Del Tridente near Gulliver Sport in Valeria del Mar • Bicycle hire: El Indio, Ave. Tomás Espora 225 @ 486752 • Mountain bike hire: Mountain Bike, Garay near Ayacucho @ 496244

Sport in Cariló • Golf: Cariló Golf Club, Ñandú near Perdiz Parque Cariló @ (02267) 47147 • Horseriding: Estancia Dos Montes, Cariló @ (02267) 470045; horseriding along the beaches

s Excursions Tour operators • Wenner Excursions, Ave. Bunge 486 near Ave. Del Mar @ 487951; sand dune excursions Excursions • The hinterland offers visits to several lagunas: Laguna Los Horcones 17 km west and Laguna La Salada Grande 27 km north west with facilities in Club de Pesca Madariaga on the south shore. Also visits to nearby estancias with extensive kiwifruit and apricot plantations • Reserva Dunícola: Located a short distance north of town. This 27 ha reserve has dunes up to 30 m. Admission free

SAN ANTONIO DE ARECO

San Antonio de Areco Population: 16 500 Postal code: 2760 @ area code: (02326) Altitude: 34 m Distance from Buenos Aires: 113 km west on RN 8

Key to map A C D H I T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Hospital Dirección Municipal de Turismo Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 4 5 9

Hotel San Carlos Hotel Hostal de Areco Hotel Posada de Ramos Generales 10 Hotel Residencial

San Antonio de Areco

14 Hotel El Hornero

4 Eating out 2 8 15 22

Restaurant La Costa Restaurant Parrilla Cafetería Barril 900 Restaurant Dell’Olmo

9 Sights 1 6 7

Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes Museo de la Ciudad (Town Museum) Museo Municipal de Arte Plásticos J. Tapia

194

20 Casa Museo del Pintor Osvaldo Gasparini

0 Services 3 11 12 13 16 17 18 19 21 23

Silversmith Cristina Giordano Silversmith Silversmith Silversmith Ceramics Silversmith Silversmith Ceramics Silversmith

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Plaza Belgrano

20

DE LOS MARTÍNEZ

ALVEAR D

23 21 22

To Junín

GUIDO

ROSA DE GILES

AZCUENAGA

DE LOS LIMA

IRIGOYEN

SIMONA SEGURA

VIEYTES

MOONEY DE MORGAN

SAN ANTONIO DE ARECO

E. FITTE

To

railway station

To Lobos

195

San Antonio de Areco

PAMPA PROVINCES

S

an Antonio de Areco is located in the pampa on the Río Areco. It was founded in 1730 on the farm of Don Ruiz de Arellano and is one of the oldest towns in Buenos Aires Province. The chapel, built in 1728 and dedicated to San Antonio de Padua, became the hub of the new town. It was an important place during the colonial era because of its location on the junction of the Camino Real to Asunción in Paraguay and Santiago in Chile. The fort erected nearby was called Carmen de Areco. The town’s name is a combination of the names of the San Antonio de Padua chapel and the Carmen de Areco fort. The Puente Viejo was built in 1857 as a toll bridge. San Antonio de Areco is still very much a rural community steeped in the gaucho tradition. Many buildings and streets from the colonial era are still intact. Forests line the banks of the river; fishing is not permitted.

D Camping

A Festivals

E Eating out

•

Camping is permitted on the northern river bank. Access is from the corner of J A Güiraldes and RN 8 Camping on RN 8 • Autocamping La Porteña A.C.A., intersection with RP 41.

Semana de la Tradición (Week of Tradition): November. Traditional gaucho festival with horse parades in remembrance of the days when Indians still attacked the settlements, also celebrates the birthday of José Hernández author of Martín Fierro. The main venue is held on the grounds of the Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes. Plenty of music, dancing, and songs. Artesanía show

Restaurants • Almacen de Ramos Generales, Bolívar 66. Parrilla • Dell’Olmo, Alsina 365. Pizzería • El Colonial, Alvear 580 • El Lugar, Alsina 208. Pizzería • La Boca Llena, Boulevard Alsina Cafeterías • Barril 900, San Martín 377 • Jockey Club, Alsina 226 • Karaku, Segundo Sombra near Arellano • Magua, Alsina 70 • Palos, Alsina 175. Bowling

B Tourist information •

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Lavalle 363 near Alsina @ 43165. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–13:30 and Sat–Sun 10:00–17:00

C Accommodation in San Antonio de Areco Hotels El Hornero, Moreno 250 near San Martín AEHLPV @ 422733 * Fuaz, Smith near Azcuénaga AELPV @ 422487 * Hostal de Areco, Zapiola 25 AEFLPSV @ 424063 * La Posada del Ceibo, Irigoyen between Avenida Smith and RN 8 AELPSV @ 424614 * Residencial, Segundo Sombra near Rivadavia AEHLPV @ 422166 * San Carlos, Zapiola near Zerbione AELPV @ 422401 • Posada de Ramos Generales, Bolívar 66 AELPSV @ (0266) 4391318 *

Accommodation on RN 8 *

Motel KM 13, near Segundo Sombra AELPV

San Antonio de Areco

196

@

424755

$F $F $F

2 2 2

$F

2

$H $H

2 2

$G

2

BUENOS AIRES • • • •

n Entertainment •

Disco Bungalow, General Paz near Arellano

I Telephone and telegraph • •

a Sport

Post office: Correo Argentino, Del Valle near Alvear Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Del Valle near Guido

•

San Antonio de Areco Golf Club, RN 8 KM 111 @ (02326) 42709

p Sightseeing

•

S Buses Bus companies • T.A. Chevallier, Empresa Alvarez Hnos, Empresa Argentina, Empresa San José, El Rápido Argentino Destinations • Buenos Aires: 8 services daily; 1 1 2 hrs El Rápido Argentino, Empresa Argentina, T.A. Chevallier

T Trains

•

The F C General Bartolomé Mitre station is on the corner of M J Güiraldes and Irigoyen.

U Motoring •

Alsina: No 17, No 192 Arellano: No 277, No 290 General Paz 165 San Martín 166

•

Gas station: Esso, Smith near San Martín

•

Y Shopping

Beautiful handicrafts are available here and include silverware and leather goods, mostly in the gaucho style. Ceramics • Alsina No 257, No 345 Textiles and knitwear • Cristina Giordano, Sarmiento 112 • Mirtha Mendizabel, Del Valle near Irigoyen Silver-smiths and jewelers • Alvear No 340 • Azcuénaga No 425

Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes (Ricardo Güiraldes Gaucho Museum), Camino R Güiraldes near Aurelino. Follow Calle Moreno to Río Areco and cross the Puente Viejo over the Río Areco, built in 1852. Named after a writer who described gaucho life, the museum is a splendid example of a late nineteenth-century estancia and is surrounded by a park. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–15:00 Sat, Sun 10:00–17:00 Museo de la Ciudad (Town museum), Matheu near Alsina. On exhibit are pieces and documents of the local history. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–14:00 Sat, Sun 10:00–17:00 Museo Municipal de Arte Plásticos J. Tapia (J,Tapia Municipal Sculpture Museum) Lavalle 363 Casa Museo del Pintor Osvaldo Gasparini, Avenida Alvear Plaza Gómez

s Excursions

•

La Bamba Estancia, a gaucho ranch which has been made into a tourist attraction, 8 km from town. There are facilities here for swimming, tennis, and golf. The ranch belongs to the Aldao family, and tours and short stays are arranged by Aldao Viajes, Maipú 872, Capital @ 43929707

SAN BERNARDO

San Bernardo Population: 3000 Postal code: 7111 @ area code: (02257) Distance from Buenos Aires: 355 km south on RN 2 and RP 11

197

San Bernardo

PAMPA PROVINCES

S

an Bernardo was founded in 1942. It is a medium sized beach resort with good facilities on the Atlantic coast between Mar del Tuyú to the north and Pinamar to the south. Since its foundation a major effort has been made to forest the town and the surrounding area. The beaches merge north with those of La Lucila and south with those of Mar de Ajó. Altogether there are 18 separate beaches within the town’s precincts. Those north of Avenida San Bernardo are called Costa Azul. Overlooking the beaches are cafés, bars, and ice-cream parlors. The main shopping street is Avenida Chiozza, between Avenida San Bernardo and De la Reducción; this portion is a pedestrian mall from 18:00 onwards. Long-distance buses call on this resort town from Buenos Aires and other provincial capitals. All sorts of water sports are catered for: fishing, water-skiing, windsurfing, launch cruises, and jet skiing. •

Also included here are the small beach resorts of Aguas Verdes, 7 km north of San Bernardo, and La Lucila del Mar, 2 km north. At Aguas Verdes the dunes along the beach are 6 m high.

Camping Las Tacuaritas, San Juan 1656 @ 460216 • Camping San Bernardo, Garay near Gaboto @ 460478 • Camping Weekend, Gutiérrez near Salta @ 460567 Camping in Aguas Verdes Charges are $H/I for 4. • Camping Los Hipocampos, Ushuaia between San Juan with 35 sites • Camping Manu–Kay, Fragata Libertad near Yate Fortuna with 150 sites

B Tourist information •

Oficina de Turismo, Avenida San Bernardo near Calle 19 @ 463027 Tourist information in La Lucila del Mar • Oficina de Turismo, Entre Ríos near Catamarca @ (02257) 460380

E Eating out

The specialty is picada especial, consisting of calamari and fried onions garnished with parsley and lemon juice. Cafeterías and confiterías • Joseph, Chiozza near Drummond • Stella Maris, Chiozza near Zuviría Pizzerías • Don Corleone, Chiozza 2147 • La Jirafa, San Bernardo near Mitre • Pizza Café Bahía, Chiozza 3037

D Camping

Charges are $H/I for 4. To La Lucila del Mar

SAN BERNARDO

R. GUTIÉRREZ DI AG ON AL

To Buenos Aires

J. HERNÁNDEZ ES

ZUVIRIA

TR A AD

HERNADARIAS AVE. SAN BERNARDO

To Mar del Plata

Restaurants • Don Tato, Avenida San Bernardo near Santiago del Estero • El Gran Choripan, Strobel 90 • La Casa de Luis, Chiozza 1702 • La Gran Vía, Chiozza 2056 • Pastas Marisa, Chiozza near de la Reducción • Vinuesa, Costanera near San Bernardo

GARAY

AL

UR

QU

ANDRADE

QUERINI

AG

ON

N

DI

FALKNER

AVENIDA COSTANERA

SANJUAN

CHIOZZA

CATAMARCA

LA RIOJA

SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO

B. MITRE

TUCUMÁN

JUJUY

SALTA

ELCANO

GENERAL MADARIAGA

ESQUIU

STROBEL

ATLANTIC OCEAN

IZA

STA MARÍA DE ORO

DE LA REDUCCIÓN

Eating out in Aguas Verdes • Restaurant Anaspano Ristorante, Fragata Sarmiento 125

MENSAJERÍAS

To Mar de Ajó

San Bernardo

198

BUENOS AIRES C Accommodation in San Bernardo Hotels **** **** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * *

Neptuno Playa, La Rioja near Hernández @ ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Seaboard, Avenida San Bernardo ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ Bel Sur, Mitre near Esquiú ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Chiavari, Avenida Chiozza 2260 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Felence, Avenida Costanera 2888 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Savoia, Avenida Chiozza near Strobel ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Carmen, San Juan 2016 AEFGJLPUV @ Da Vinci, San Juan 1850 AEFGJLPUV @ Excelsior, San Juan 1841 AEFGJLPUV @ Haymyro, Avenida Chiozza 2312 AEFGJLPUV @ Krakus, Avenida Chiozza 1645 AEFGJLPUV @ La Argentina, Avenida Chiozza 2641 AEFGJLPUV @ Royal, San Juan 1544 AEFGJLPUV @ San Bernardo, San Juan near Drumond AEFGJLPUV @ San Miguel, Avenida Chiozza 1702 near Drumond AEFGJLPUV @ Stromboli, Avenida Chiozza 2121 AEFGJLPUV @ Marenka, Machado 265 AELPV @ Mirasol, Drumond 10 AELPV @ Resi, Falkner 292 AELPV @ San Antonio, Avenida Chiozza 2952 AELPV @ Ser Mar, Zuviría 71 AELPV @

Hospedajes

461789

$G

2

461712/461294 460368/460565 460966 460628/463015 460250/460211 460452 460688 460525 460273 460438 460456 460215 460216

$G $G/H $G/H $G/H $G/H $H/I $H/I $H/I $H/I $H/I $G/H $H/I $H/I

2 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

460216 460450 460306 460531 460237 460265 460358

$H/I $H/I $I $I $I $I $I

1 1 1 1 1 1 1

@ @

430209 460285

@

460353

$J

@

462420

$H/I

1

• Don Quinto, Destructor Espora 1245 ALPUV @ 462465/461465 $H • Brisas Del Mar, Avenida Portaviones between Independencia and Chiriguano $H/I

1

A Ileana, Avenida Chiozza 1621 A Rosibel, Catamarca 2155

LP LP

Youth Hostels

A Los Tamariscos, San Juan near Moreno ADEFLPS

Accommodation in Costa Azul Hotels **

Colonial, Mendoza

AEFGJLPUV

Accommodation in Aguas Verdes Apart hotels

Accommodation in La Lucila del Mar Hotels *** ** **

La Maison, San Juan 5140 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Casablanca, Mendoza 4742 AEFGJLPUV Lavaggi, Rebagliatti near Costanera AEFGJLPSUV

Hosterías **

La Morada del Sol, San Juan 4818

AEFGJLPUV

199

2

2

@ @ @

462722 $H 462801/462991 $H/I 462303 $J

1 1 1

@

462459

1

$I

San Bernardo

PAMPA PROVINCES Eating out in La Lucila del Mar Cafeterías • Antigua Capilla, Mendoza 4930 local 3 • Arenas, Rebagliatti 50 Restaurants • Balneario Montesol, Córdoba near Costanera • Casablanca, Mendoza 4742 • El Hueso Perdido, Mendoza 4733. Parrilla • La Lucila, Mendoza 4851. Parrilla • Malevil, Mendoza 4650. Parrilla Fast food • El Descanso, Salta 127 Pizzerías • La Placita II, Entre Ríos 350 • La Tanga, Mendoza 4622

•

n Entertainment

•

• •

Disco La Carpa, Avenida San Bernardo near Jujuy Disco Soviet, Avenida San Bernardo near General Madariaga Disco The Route, Avenida San Bernardo 919

I Post and telegraph

• •

Post office: Encotesa, De la Reducción 50 between Avenida Chiozza and Costanera Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, La Rioja near Garay

L Financial

•

Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires, Avenida Chiozza 2359

M Services and facilities

•

Admission to discos is $I/J per person • Bingo, Chiozza near Drummond • Cine Arenas I and II, Chiozza near Drummond • Cine Roxi, Mensajerías between Costanera and Avenida Chiozza • Cine San Bernardo, Chiozza near Esquiú • Disco La Cruz, Avenida San Bernardo near Calle 18 • Disco El Area, Avenida San Bernardo near Salta • Disco The Box, Avenida San Bernardo near Jujuy

Hire of motorcycles: Tucumán 2685 and Mendoza 1492 Hire of horses: Tucumán near Gutiérrez; also excursions on horseback.

S Buses

The long-distance bus terminal is on Avenida San Bernardo near Madariaga, @ 461340.

s Excursions Tour operators • Dallaventur, Calle Chiozza near Obligado @ 463390 fax

SAN CLEMENTE DEL TUYÚ

San Clemente del Tuyú Population: 8000 Postal code: 7105 @ area code: (02252) Distance from Buenos Aires: 320 km south-east on RN 2 then RP 63 and RP 11

A

rgentina’s northernmost beach resort, located south of Punta Norte del Cabo de San Antonio, San Clemente del Tuyú bustles with life in the tourist season but is almost deserted in the winter months. All of the streets bear numbers instead of names. The main shopping area and hub of town is on Calle 1 between Avenida San Martín and Calle 2; it is also a

San Clemente del Tuyú

pedestrian mall. The local artists sell their creations on Plaza Pereyra not far from the mall. 200

C Municipalidad D E I T $

ÍN

Correo Argentino Telephone Tourist information Bus terminal Banks Fishermen’s pier

VI

A Iglesia San Clemente Romano

AV EN IDA

AVE . II

C.1 1

C. 31

C. 29

C. 30

C. 27

11 CALLE 9

C. 28

SAN MART

T

AVENIDA NAVAL

CALLE 26

CALLE 25

CALLE 16

CALLE 17

CALLE 15

Also included is the little beach resort of Las Toninas located just 2 km north of San Clemente along the beach. It has 1700 inhabitants and some small hotels and restaurants. Most of them close at the end of the summer season. The same buses which serve San Clemente also call on Las Toninas. Facilities are listed with those of San Clemente. The beaches are 100–150 metres wide with calm waters. This little town appeals to tourists who seek a quiet beach resort.

C.1 2

BUENOS AIRES

CALLE 8 AV E.

CALLE 7

C IV

CALL AVENIDA III

D

E

E 43

CALLE 20

$

I

CALLE 4

CALLE 3

N

SAN CLEMENTE DEL TUYU

B Tourist information •

Oficina de Turismo, Calle 2 near 65, @ 430718 Tourist information in Las Toninas • Oficina de Turismo, Calle 2–2090 @ 430718

CALLE 2

CALLE 1

AVE. COSTANERA

MAR ARGENTINO

• El Mundo de la Pizza, Calle 2–2237 • Ruta 66, Avenida Talas del Tuyú 3268 • Vinicius, Calle 1–2467 Restaurants • Alfredito, Calle 1 near 3. Parrilla • El Ancla, Calle 8 near 16 • El Encuentro, Calle 16–42. Seafood • El Escorpiano, Calle 1–2536. Parrilla • El Gallo Rengo, Calle 2–2061. Parrilla • El Hispano, Avenida San Martín 162. Spanish cuisine • El Jaleo, Calle 3 between 16 and 1 • El Mesón de Gallega, Calle 10 in the harbor. Seafood • El Paellero Valenciano, Calle 4–2388. Spanish cuisine • Güido, Calle 27–326. Italian cuisine • Hugo y Mary, Avenida 11 in the harbor. Seafood • La Cantina de Beto, in the harbor Avenida 9 near 10. Seafood • La Parrillita, Calle 1–2178 between 3 and 22. Parrilla • La Querencia, Calle 1–2459. Parrilla • Las Brasas, Calle 1 between 2 and 3 • Los Lujaneros, Avenida Costanera 2503. Seafood • Los Muju, Avenida XII–240 in the harbor. Seafood • Playa, Calle 1 near Avenida 11 • Playa Verde, Calle 1 between 18 and 19 • Sea Gull, Calle 1 between 2 and 3 • Vegetariano, Calle 2 between 18 and 19. Vegetarian cuisine

D Camping

Prices charged are $4.00 per person plus $4.00 per tent; for trailers $25.00 per day. All campsites have electricity and hot showers and laundry facilities • A.C.A., Avenida 2–96 @ 421124 also cable TV. Restaurant. Open only in summer • El Tala, Calle 9 bis–1220 @ 421593 • Kumelkan I, Calle 48–259 @ 422059 • Kumelkan II, Calle 50–595 @ 421752 • Los Tres Pinos, Avenida 12–3556 Camping in Las Toninas Charges are $J 1. • Camping El Molino, Calle 26 between 17 and 19 • Camping Las Toninas, Calle 40 between 31 and 33

E Eating out

Ask for Pejerrey al Roquefort a fish dinner made with cheese, a delicious local dish. In the off season (March–December) many restaurants are closed. Cafeterías and confiterías • Parada II, Calle 1–2184 • Tropicana, Calle 1–2108 • Vadinho, Avenida Costanera 18. Bar Pizzerías • El Tala, Avenida Talas del Tuyú 3184 201

San Clemente del Tuyú

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in San Clemente del Tuyú Hotels

ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 421187 *** Altair, Calle 3–2283 near Avenida Costanera ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 421429 *** Gran Casino, Calle 16–71 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 421315 *** La Argentina, San Martín 270 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 421473 *** Mareno, Calle 16–125 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 421322 *** Morales, Calle 1–1856 near Calle 22 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 421207 *** Savoia, San Martín 267 between Calle 3 and Calle 4 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 421107 *** Solmar, Calle 50 near Costanera ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 421438 fax *** Stella Marina, Avenida Costanera between Calle 2 and Calle 3 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 421453 ** Sur, Calle 3–2194 AEFGJLPSUV @ 421137 ** Correa, Talas del Tuyú 2883 (Ruta Acceso) and Avenida 1 AEFGJLPSUV @ 421212 ** Frasi’s, Calle 16–145 AEFGJLPSUV @ 421395 ** Piedras, Avenida San Martín 243 AEFGJLPUV @ 421179 ** Playa, Calle 1–2600 near Calle 18 AEFGJLPSUV @ 421362 ** Royal, Calle 30 between Calle 3 and Calle 4 AEFGJLPUV @ 421431 * Acuario, Avenida San Martín 144 AELPV @ 422322 * Arco Iris, Calle 3–1835 AELPV @ 421372 * Buenos Aires, Calle 24–159 AELPV @ 421055 * Capri, Calle 31 bis near Calle 5 AELPSV @ 421159 * Clamarjo, Calle 4–1664 AELPSV @ 421046 * Constanza, Calle 16–316 AELPSV @ 422338 * Costa del Mar, Calle 25–271 AELPV @ 421451 * Costanera, Ave. Costanera 2429 AELPV @ 421110 * Del Mar, Calle 27–57 AELPSV @ 421356 * Don Severo, Calle 2–2056 AELPSV @ 421217 * Frente al Muelle, Calle 16–7 near Calle 27 AELPSV @ 421218 * Las Grullas, Calle 4 near 30 AELPV @ 422044 * Las Violetas, Calle 21–329 AELPSV @ 421278 * Melani, Calle 1–2325 AELPV @ 421257 * Mili, Calle 27–356 AELPSV @ 421346 * Parque, Calle 18–245 AELPV @ 421122 * Riviera, Calle 21–312 AELPSV @ 421278 * San Jorge, Avenida 63–46 near Avenida Costanera AELPSV @ 421803 * Splendid, Calle 1–2465 AELPSV @ 421316 • El Parque, Calle 18–245 @ 422706

****

Gran Fontainebleau, Calle 3–2294

Hospedajes A A A B

@ @ @ @

Don Alfonso, Calle 4–2333 LP El Topo, Avenida Costanera 1675 LPS Quinta Avenida, Calle 5–1561 LPS Hotel Avenida, Ave. Costanera 1681

•

2

$F/G $F/G $F/G $G $G

2 2 2 2 2

$E/F 2 $F/G 2 $F/G 2 $F/G 2 $G/H $F $H $F/G $H $H $I $I $I $E $G $I $G $I $I $H $I $I $H $I $I $I $I $H

$J $H $J $I

2 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 4 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 1 2

1 1 1 1

Hamburguesas El Patio, Calle 1 between 36 and 38 Pizzerías • Mafalda, Calle 1 near 34 and 36 • Mony, Calle 1–1778

Eating out in Las Toninas Meals cost from $Y. Cafeterías • Snack Bar, Costanera near 44 • Barbara, Calle 1 between 46 and 48

San Clemente del Tuyú

421305 421442 421035 421134

$E/F

202

BUENOS AIRES •

Restaurants • El Rancho, Calle 1–1818. Parrilla • Mat-Two, Calle 1–1946 • Santa Ana, Calle 1–1884. Parrilla • Stella Maris, Calle 1–1739 • Super Patos, Calle 26 near 27

U Motoring

•

Admission to discos is around $Y. • Bingo, Calle 13; $2.00 per bet • Cine Embassy, Calle 19–55 • Cine Tuyú, Avenida San Martín • Disco Ibiza, Calle 18 near 70 • Disco Oba-Oba, Avenida Talas del Tuyú near 70

•

•

I Post and telegraph

Tour operators • Receptivo San Clemente, Calle 1–2397 @ 421009 Excursions • Faro San Antonio: 7 km north in the area of the ecological research station Fundación Vida Silvestre (“Wild Life Foundation”). The area is an important gathering place for migratory birds on their way from Canada to the subantarctic and as such is a mecca for ornithologists and birdwatchers. You can scale the lighthouse over 298 steps for a view over the Bahía de Samborombón and the wildlife sanctuary • Tapera de López, a natural harbor protected by three small islands, is located 8 km north of town. It is the focal point for water activities: sailing boats for hire, swimming, fishing, water-skiing, wind-surfing. At the harborside is a bar and confitería • Mundo Marino: This is a marine life park of 19 ha (47 acre) 3 km north of town. It is considered one of the major marine life parks of South America. It has dolphins, penguins, sea lions, and whales. The visit takes about 4 hours; open daily 10:00–18:00; admission $20.00 • Reserva Natural Campos del Tuyú: On RP 11 west before arriving at the township of General Lavalle. It is

Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires, Calle 1–2258 @ 21390. ATM Banco Comercial de Tandil, Avenida San Martín 146, @ 21361. ATM

M Services • •

Museo Regional de Historia y Ciencias Naturales (Regional History and Natural Sciences Museum), Calle 3 near 1 Museo Ruquita, Avenida 9–8

s Excursions

Post office: Encotesa, Calle 4–2037 Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Calle 4–2152

L Financial •

Deep sea fishing: Asociación de Pesca Náutica y Fomento, Calle 1-2338. Good catches of corvina negra at Punta Rasa up to 20 kg Ice skating: Clemente Patin Club, Avenida Naval near calle 28

p Sightseeing

•

Entertainment in Las Toninas • Cine Las Toninas, Calle 7 between 36 and 38

•

Service station: A.C.A., Calle 19–193

a Sport

•

n Entertainment

• •

Villa Gesell; 10 daily

Hire of bicycles and motorcycles: Avenida 2 near Talas del Tuyú Hire of horses: Vivero (= Nursery) Cosme Argerich, Avenida 3–3500

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Avenida Naval, corner of Avenida San Martín. Taxis are on Calle 10 near San Martín near the bus terminal. Bus companies Alba de Ajó, Almirante Brown, Alvarez Hnos, Costera Criolla, Compañía Argentina de Turismo, Central Argentino, El Rápido Argentino, Empresa Río de la Plata, Expreso Carasa, Expreso Córdoba–Mar del Plata, Expreso Paraná, Flecha de Oro, La Estrella, La Plata S.A.,Plusmar, Río Paraná, Ruta Atlántica, Vosa, Turismo Patri. Long-distance services • Buenos Aires ($24.00; 6 hrs);12 daily • Mar del Plata (4 hrs); 20 daily • Pinamar; 10 daily 203

San Clemente del Tuyú

PAMPA PROVINCES home of native pampa deer which roamed the Argentine pampas before the arrival of the Europeans. They are now practically extinct in their original habitat area

Sights in Las Toninas • The English vessel Her Royal Highness shipwrecked here in 1883. It is located 6 km north

SAN MIGUEL DEL MONTE

San Miguel del Monte Population: 10 000 Postal code: 7220 @ area code: (02271) Altitude: 23 m Distance from Buenos Aires: 110 km south on RN 3

L

1

J. SAYOS

F. DE AZA RA

SANTOS MOLINA

SA

MANUEL BELGRANO

E.

ITALIA

AISCARDI

AV

H

EVA PERÓN

FRAY MARTÍNEZ

B. RIVADAVIA

To bus terminalT

ocated in the pampa, on the shores of Laguna de Monte, the town of San Miguel del Monte grew around the Fuerte San Miguel del Monte. It is one of the few towns in Argentina without a documented foundation date. In 1745 the fort was built directly on the laguna. From 1779 onwards the settlement started to grow and November 18th is regarded as the town’s foundation date. In 1833 Manuel de Rosas set out from San Miguel del Monte on a desert expeTo Buenos Aires S. DE LA CALLE dition. Indeed Manuel de Rosas owned SAN MIGUEL DEL MONTE a small farm here and the original GUARDIA DEL MONTE N dwelling is now situated in town and GRAL URQUIZA can be visited. The town still retains the air of a country town with its narrow MAN UEL SÚAR EZ streets, and some of the small buildings B. DE LALINDE

Key to map H I T

RNA ZEN ON VID ELA DO

3 Accommodation

BLANDEN GUES N M

8 Hostería La Antigua Casona 9 Hotel Laguna del Monte 11 Camping Club Deportivo Independiente

2

AR TÍ

PETRACCHI

N 3

4

H. YR IGO YE N 5

6

PEDRO N. ROJAS

A

NA ZO

7

L .N . AL EM

JUAN ARROQUIGARAY

MA NU EL PI

B. MI TR E

J.J. SARD EN

PEDRO N. LÓPEZ

4 Eating out

8

10

2 3 5 6 10

11

5 Entertainment

9

J .M . NERA O S TA I VE. C

DE R

O

SAS

1

Pizzería La Mamma Rosa Cafetería Joaquinillo Pizzería Don Pancho Cafetería La Pileta Restaurant El Náutico Disco El Limite

9 Sights 4

Museo Enrique Uzal

0 Services

Laguna de Monte

7

San Miguel del Monte

Hospital Dirección de Turismo Bus terminal

204

Lavarap

BUENOS AIRES in the town center still are straw-thatched.

M Services and facilities

The locals call it usually Monte to avoid confusion with the town of San Miguel also in Buenos Aires Province.

• •

S Buses

B Tourist information •

The bus terminal is on Avenida San Martín near RN 3. Bus companies • El Cóndor, La Estrella, El Rápido Argentino, Pampa, Expreso Liniers, Expreso Cañuelas Destinations • Buenos Aires (3hrs); 8 daily

Dirección de Turismo, Avenida Costanera Juan Manuel de Rosas near Fray F. Martínez @ 421138; open 08:00–13:00

C Accommodation

Hotel Laguna del Monte, Avenida Costanera near J Sardén ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 420687 $H 1 ** Hostería La Antigua Casona, Santos Molina AEFGJLPUV @ 420512 $F 2 A Hospedaje del Jardín, Petracchi 367 near Alem LPS @ 420019 $F 2 Accommodation on RN 3 A Hospedaje California, KM 111 @ 420016 LP ***

a Sport

Laguna del Monte is suitable for kayaking, water-skiing, and fishing. The local fish hatchery restocks the lake every year with 350 000 small fish. Polo • Estancia de las Perdices is located on the Laguna del Monte. Tennis courts and polo fields; offers horse-riding and water sports • Estancia La Atropellada; located 60 km from San Miguel del Monte; this is a traditional estancia from last century. Offers accommodation for eight persons, horse riding including polo lessons, fishing, and a swimming pool; Information and reservations. Buenos Aires: Brasil 353 2nd floor oficina 2 @ (011) 43613308, fax (011) 43615214

D Camping •

Club Deportivo Independiente, J.M. de Rosas 514, hot water, showers, tennis, squash

E Eating out Restaurants • El Mangrullo, Avenida Costanera • El Náutico, Avenida Costanera near Mitre • La Costanera, Costanera near Eva Perón • La Parrillas de Juan, Alem near Petracchi Pizzerías • Don Pancho, H. Yrigoyen 700 • La Mamma Rosa, Petracchi 475

p Sightseeing

• •

Cafeterías and confiterías • Joaquinillo, H. Yrigoyen 731 • La Pileta, Rojas 399 • The Nook, Alem near Petracchi

n Entertainment • •

Laundromat: Laverap, Alem 469 Camping gear: Los Horneros, San Martín 554

Disco El Limite, Videla Dorna 485 Disco New World, Costanera near Aicardi

205

Museo Enrique Uzal, H. Yrigoyen 289 Rancho Histórico de Rosas, Soler corner of Belgrano; open Sat, Sun 14:00–17:00. Was removed from its original location outside town and relocated within the town. Was owned l a s t c e n t u r y b y t h e C a u d illo-Presidente Juan Manuel de Rosas. His gaucho soldiers, known as Colorados del Monte, were organized on this estancia

San Miguel del Monte

PAMPA PROVINCES

SAN NICOLÁS DE LOS ARROYOS

San Nicolás de los Arroyos Population: 120 000 Postal code: 2900 @ area code: (02461) Altitude: sea level Distance from Buenos Aires: 240 km north-west on RN 9

L

ocated on a channel of the Río Paraná opposite the Islas Lechiguanas which form the delta, San Nicolás de los Arroyos is the northernmost town in Buenos Aires Province; it is an industrial town and a major port for the export of grain. It is served by the F C General Bartolomé Mitre railroad. San Nicolás was founded in 1748. Because of its strategic position the town was often the focal point during the political and military struggle of the first years of independence. It was here that General Urquiza and the assembled provincial governors signed in 1853 the Acuerdo de San Nicolás de Arroyo which was the beginning of the national reconstruction. The visitor can see many buildings dating back to last century, including the house where the Acuerdo (agreement) was signed, the monument to the first Argentine naval battle, or have a

traditional gaucho lunch in the Museo Gauchesco Patria y Tradición. The hub of town is Plaza General Mitre. Crossing the Arroyo Yaguaró, one of the many channels of the Río Paraná, by launch you can spend the day or afternoon fishing on Isla Ballesteros and return back the same day or camp out.

A Festivals

• • •

Fundación de San Nicolás: 14th April Conmemoración del Acuerdo de San Nicolás (Festival on the occasion of the Accord of San Nicolás): 31st May Fiesta Santo Patrono San Nicolás de Bari: 6th December

C Accommodation in San Nicolás de los Arroyos Hotels

Colonial, Avenida General Savio 2195 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ El Acuerdo, Francia 7 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ *** San Martín, Italia near Garibaldi ADEFGHJLPSUV @ *** Yaguarón, Mitre 409 ACDEFGHJKLPRSTUVY Fax 428979 @ ** Río, San Martín 115 ADEFGHJLPSUVY @ * Citex, Nación 451 AELPSV @ * San Nicolás, Savio 236 AELPSV Fax 426652 @ * Tony, Nación 627 AEGLPTV @ * Torino, Savio 279 ADEHJLPSTVY @ • Español, Urquiza 35 EHP @ • Micerino, Garibaldi 408 E-mail: vailtrav@cablenet,com.ar @ *** ***

Hospedajes

A Igüeldo, Mitre 321

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To Bus terminal

Key to map E H I T

Telephone Hospital Dirección de Turismo Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 5 7 9 10

Hotel El Acuerdo Hotel Español Hotel Río Hotel San Nicolás

12 Hotel Torino

11 Cafetería Disco Jethro

4 Eating out

9 Sights

2 6 8

Restaurant Club Social Restaurant El Puente Restaurant La Nuit

5 Entertainment 1

3 0 4

Santurario Virgen del Rosario

Services

Rentamóvil

Club de Regatas San Nicolás

207

San Nicolás de los Arroyos

PAMPA PROVINCES B Tourist information •

+IVA and insurance, VW Carat CD $90.00 per day plus tax and insurance)

Dirección de Turismo, Almafuerte 116 @ 421070 fax 423003. Open Mon–Fri from 07:00–13:00

a Sport

•

E Eating out

Restaurants • Avenida, Mitre near Moreno & • • Club Belgrano, Pellegrini 476 • Club Social, Guardias Nacional 87 • Don Eduardo, Mitre 80 • El Encuentro, Pellegrini 148 • El Puente, Urquiza 32 p • La Cantina del Encuentro, Garibaldi • 135 • La Nuit, 9 de Julio 67 • & • San Martín, Italia corner of Garibaldi $X & • San Timoteo, opposite Santuario Virgen del Rosario, $Z Cafeterías • • Astul, Mitre 90 • El Quijote, Mitre 190 • Horly, Mitre 252 • Hotty’s, Nación 230 • Ramos Generales, Nación 235

n Entertainment •

Disco Jethro, Avenida Savio 246

Sightseeing

Museum and archives of the first Argentine naval engagement Museo y Bibliotheca Casa del Acuerdo (Acuerdo House Museum and Library), De la Nación 143. Various historical objects and documents. Open Mon–Fri 15:00–19:00 Sat, Sun 09:00–13:00 and 17:00–21:00 Teatro Municipal Rafael de Aguiar named in honor of the town’s founder, was built in 1908. The sheer size and lavish decor is amazing for a provincial town. The seating capacity is for 1250 persons. The furniture and interior decor came from Vienna, Austria

s Excursions

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Boulevard Morteo near Nación. Rentamovil and Remise Belgrano run colectivo services in town. • Bus companies: Argentina, T.A. Chevallier, La Costera, Tirsa • Buenos Aires (3 hrs): 8 services daily

Tour operators • Melín Viajes y Turismo, Ameghino 46 @ 427310 fax Excursions • Santurario Virgen del Rosario, on the Grounds of Parque General Perón fronting Sarmiento. A Catholic shrine which attracts many pilgrims • The Río Paraná and its channels and islands are within easy reach

U Motoring • •

Golf: Siderurgia Golf Club, Avenida Savio near RP 1001 @ (02461) 421021 ext. 640 Yachting and Sailing: Club de Regatas San Nicolás, Alameda 2 de Marzo near Belgrano. Also tennis courts; restaurant $Y

Service station: A.C.A., RN 9 KM 242 Car rental: Rentamóvil, Francia 4 @ 431800 (Fiat 147TR $50.00 per day

SAN PEDRO

San Pedro Population: 35 000 Postal code: 2930 @ area code: (02329) Distance from Buenos Aires: 159 km north-west on RN 9

San Pedro

208

BUENOS AIRES

S

an Pedro is located on the Laguna San Pedro a few kilometers north of the autopista and RN 9. Its origins go back to 1745 when the Franciscan padres established a monastery. The town started to grow from 1802 onwards. It still has many mansions with large patios from the colonial period. Nowadays San Pedro is an important overseas shipping terminal and has a paper-manufacturing plant. On either side of B. Mitre streets change names. Things to see are the Monasterio San Pedro next to the church, and the Museo Regional.

Pizzerías • Bianco, Mitre 1125 • Don Quijote, Belgrano 930

n Entertainment

A Festivals • •

• •

Día de la Soberanía: 20th November Fiesta de la Rosa y del Durazno (Rose and Apricot Festival): December/January

I Post and telegraph

•

B Tourist information •

Ibiza Disco, Pellegrini 435 Le Club, Belgrano 943

•

Dirección de Turismo, 9 de Julio 134 @ 425234

Post office: Correo Argentino, Arnaldo 200 Telephone: Telecom, Arnaldo near Salta

M Services and facilities

E Eating out

•

Restaurants • Edelweiss, Mitre near Ayacucho • El Patio, Ayacucho 241 • La Posta, San Martín 350 • La Querencia, Avenida 11 de Septiembre 55. Parrilla • La Unión, Pellegrini 951 • Los Amigos, Mitre 1330 • Martín Fierro, Balcarce 55. Parrilla • San Pedro, Bazzano 215 Cafeterías • Gringo Viejo, Obligado 17 • La Perla, Mitre 675 • María, Balcarce 66

Camping and sport equipment: La Tortuga Loca, Mitre 1275

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Gomendio near O. César. • Bus Companies: T.A. Chevallier, Expreso Paraná, El Rápido Argentino • Buenos Aires: daily; 3 hours

U Motoring

•

Service station: A.C.A., corner of 3 de Febrero and Dr D Pellegrini

p Sightseeing

•

Museo Histórico Regional Municipal “Fray Juan María Bottaro” (Brother

C Accommodation in San Pedro Hotels *** *** ** * * *

Esser, Mitre 1335 Fax 425651 Obligado, Mitre near Liniers Fax 424185 de Turismo, Bulevar Paraná 450 Costa Azul, Dr D Pellegrini 55 Marconi, Mitre 1199 Natural, Salta near 3 de Febrero

Hospedajes

A Armengol, Belgrano 1310 A Belgrano, Belgrano 1370

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San Pedro

PAMPA PROVINCES by an Argentinian squadron under the command of General Lucio Mansillo. There is a monolith to mark the battle. Apart from the historical reference it is one of the most picturesque spots on the Paraná river and an excellent dorado and surubí fishing spot. Nearby is Camping Don Antonio

Juan María Bottaro Municipal Regional History Museum)

s Excursions •

Vuelta de Obligado, 19 km north of town on the Río Paraná. Rafael Obligado was a poet who had a small castle here. In 1845 an Anglo-French command tried to force free access to the Paraná river. They were dispelled

SANTA CLARA DEL MAR

Santa Clara Population: 3200 Postal code: 7609 @ area code: (0223) Distance from Buenos Aires: 390 km south on RP 11

S

anta Clara was founded in 1949. The wide beaches coupled with shallow water are ideal for families with small children. In some areas rock formations end abruptly in the sea. Within the city limits are several beaches each with its own facilities such as cafés, tent hire, sunshades and sport equipment. The best beaches are Balneario Mar del Cobo, California, and La Punta; at Playa Franka is a section reserved for topless sunbathers.

C Accommodation in Santa Clara del Mar Cabañas

• Del Sol, Palermo 126 • Pilmayquén, Santos 32 • VIP, RP 11 near Mentón

Hotels * *

California, Punta Lara 217 La Romana, Avenida Acapulco 171

AEGHLPSV AEHKLPV

Hosterías * * * *

Bilbao, Bilbao 44 AEHLPV Brisas, Avenida Costanera near Valencia ADELPSV Marsal, Bilbao near Viña del Mar AELPV Portofino, Avenida Acapulco 346 AEFGHLPSV

@ @ @

4602419 4602769 4602739

@

4602719

@ @ @ @

4602144 4602454 4602731 4602336

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4691091

@

4691046/34

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4691002

Accommodation in Balneario Parque Mar Chiquita Hotels *** * *

Mirador, Fray Luis Beltrán near J.B. Alberdi ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Bariloche, Fray Luis Beltrán AEGHLPSV Mar Chiquita, Estebán Echeverría near Beltrán AELPSV

Accommodation in Mar de Cobo *

Hostería Oásis, Avenida J. M. Cobos AELPSV

Santa Clara

210

BUENOS AIRES A Festivals •

Empresa Costamar, El Rápido del Sud

Windsurf Regatas: December

a Sport

B Tourist information •

•

Secretaría de Turismo, Galería Florida Local 8–10 @ 4602433

D Camping Camping in Balneario Parque Mar Chiquita • Camping Mar Chiquita, Avenida San Martín near Puente @ 4691076; also bungalows and hire of trailers

p Sightseeing

• •

E Eating out

Meals cost from $Y to $X. • Restaurant La Reina, Avenida Acapulco near Bristol • Restaurant Santa Clara del Mar, Avenida Acapulco near Luarca Disco El Morro, Avenida del Arroyo

I Post and telegraph •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Punta Larqa 472

•

S Buses •

Museo Paleontológico Pachamama (Pachamama Palaeontological Museum), Niza 1065. M u s e o d e A r t e s a n í a s L atino-americanas, Selva Negra 549. Open daily 17:00–22:00; small admission. Next door is a restaurant

s Excursions

•

n Entertainment •

Fishing. Most fishing activities are organized by Asociación Club de Pesca La Escollera, Avenida Costanera near Necochea. The best fishing is in Mar Chiquita some 15 km north.

Bus companies: Empresa Atlántida, Empresa El Rápido Argentino, Empresa Costera Criolla, El Cóndor,

•

Esquina de Argúas is a gaucho tavern located near the salt lakes 17 km from Coronel Vidal. It is supposed to be 160 years old, making it one of the oldest pulperías in Argentina. The building is of adobe bricks and the fence of whale bones Near Coronel Vidal is Estancia El Durazno Grande, founded in 1815. This estancia was in 1839 the gathering place of the plotters of the Revolución de los Libres del Sud Mar del Plata is only 18 km south

SANTA TERESITA

Santa Teresita Population: 9200 Postal code: 7107 @ area code: (02246) Altitude: sea level Distance from Buenos Aires: 340 km south on RP 2 then RP 11

S

ince its foundation in 1946, Santa Teresita has become one of Buenos Aires Province’s major seaside resorts. The main attraction is the extensive beaches which stretch from Las Toninas in the south to Mar del Tuyú in the north, and which consist of fine sand with some sea shells. The facilities include excellent hotels, restaurants, and a golf club. The exclusive suburb of Santa Teresita del Monte is located between the seaside and the golf club; streets and roads curve around the hillside giving vistas over the town and the sea. 3 between Calle 32 and Calle 42. On the Plaza at the intersection of

The hub of town with many shops and boutiques is on Calle 2 and Calle 211

Santa Teresita

PAMPA PROVINCES A Festivals

Diagonal 20, Diagonal 21 and Calle 10 is the Paseo del Tango with a feature wall showing tango musicians and a life-size couple in front dancing the tango. The dunes along the beaches have been stabilized with plants and bushes. A replica of Columbus’ discovery ship Santa María serves as confitería and ice-cream parlor.

• • •

February: Grand Golf Tournament (Gran Torneo de Golf Abierto Municipalidad de la Costa (36 holes) March/April: Fiesta Nacional Aniversario de Santa Teresita, also fishing competition At the Triángulo del Tuyú a car race is held in summer

B Tourist information

•

Oficina de Turismo, Calle 42 near 3 @ 420542

C Accommodation in Santa Teresita Hotels

Golf Internacional, Calle 27 near Kennedy ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 430344/420469 *** Monaco, Calle 3–1141 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 420273 *** Apolo, Calle 42 near Diagonal 19 AEFGJLPUV @ 420367 ** Baleares, Calle 34–335 AEFGJLPUV @ 420101 ** Playa, Calle 36–270 AEFGJLPUV @ 420579 ** San Remo, Calle 35–344 AEFGJLPUV @ 420215 ** Solyma, Calle 42 near 2 AEFGJKLPUV @ 420160 ** Sorrento, Calle 37–235 AEFGJLPUV @ 420298 ** Villa del Mar, Calle 2–1130 AEFGJLPUV @ 430600 * Alborada, Calle 3–1144 AELPV @ 420489 * Baron, Calle 34–241 AELPV @ 420235 * Demper, Calle 33–278 AELPV @ 430301/420230 * Ezpeleta, Calle 30–235 AELPV @ 420908 * El Atlántico, Calle 30–255 AELPV @ 420510 * Gran Prix, Calle 39–150 AELPV @ 420593 * Helénico, Calle 36–238 AELPV @ 420251 * La Escama, Calle 36–156 AELPV @ 420234 * Miami, Calle 4–550 AELPV @ 420518 * Riviera, Calle 31–270 AELPV @ 420358/420258 * Royal, Calle 3–525 AELPV @ 420226 * Summer, Calle 33–359 AELPV @ 421006 * Veramar, Calle 44–167 AELPV @ 422029/420222 • Cerdeña, Calle 30–431 AFPT @ 421099 • Turista, Ave 32–464 ADGS @ 430334

****

Hospedajes

A Megaro, Calle 3–1141

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Accommodation in Las Toninas Hotels * *

Marynoi, Calle 1 between 32 and 34 AELPV Venecia, Calle 9–2286 AELPV

Hospedajes

A Souvenir, Calle 1 between 36 and 38 ELPS A Marina, Calle 1–2123 LP

Santa Teresita

212

BUENOS AIRES •

D Camping •

•

Estancia El Carmen, Avenida 23 near Avenida Costanera @ 420220. Also cabins $F 4; $H per caravan Splash, on road to Las Toninas beach near Calle 23 @ 420684; $J 1

• • • • •

E Eating out

Restaurants serve lunch and dinner from $10.00. Cafeterías • Café de la Paz, Calle 2 near 37 • Quitapenas, 32 between 9 and 10 • Rustiko, Calle 2 between 36 and 37 Pizzerías • Huacos, Calle 3 between 32 and 33 • Mister Pizza, Calle 37 between 2 and 3 • Pascualito, Calle 39 between 2 and 3 Restaurants • BC, Calle 2 near 38 • Brisas, Calle 2–639 • Cabaña Tuyú, Calle 32–314 near 3. Seafood • Cerro San Javier, Calle 40–371 • El Fogón Costera Criolla, Calle 32 between 2 and 3 • El Helénico, Calle 36 between 2 and 3 • El Patio del Chango Gauna, Calle 32–282 • El Viento Loco, Costanera near 32. Seafood • Golden Garden, Calle 39 near 2. Shows • Hoyo I, Calle 32 between 2 and 3 • La Casa de la Abuela, Calle 37 near 3 • La Estancia, Calle 38 near 2 • La Estrella, Calle 32–440 between 3 and 4 • La Fontaine, Calle 38 near 3 • La Herradura, Calle 4–401 • La Vaca Loca, Calle 3 near 34 • La Vieja Esquina, Calle 37 near 3 • Los Farolitos, Calle 32–207 • María Dorila, Costanera between 37 and 38 • Quinchito, Calle 31 near 3 • San Miguel, Calle 2 between 34 and 35 • Valentino, Calle 38 between Costanera and 2 • Vera Cruz, Calle 2 between 33 and 34

I Post and telegraph

• •

Post office: Encotesa, Calle 3–969 Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Calle 4–2152

L Financial

• •

Banco de la Provincia, Calle 2–1005. ATM Banco de la Nación, Calle 37–319

M Services and facilities

Beach umbrellas may be hired. Farmacia: Gloriani, Calle 32 between 9 and 10

R Air services

Jorge Newbery airport is near San Bernardo. • S.A.P.S.E. and LAER have flights to and from Buenos Aires. Bookings: Viajes Tuyú @ 420863

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Calle 16 near 35. Long distance bus companies: Chevallier, La Estrella–El Cóndor, El Rápido Argentino, Expreso Córdoba–Mar del Plata, Central Argentino, Almirante Brown, Urquiza. Provincial bus companies: Compañía Argentina de Turismo, El Alba, Costera Criolla, Río de la Plata, Alba de Ajó, Alvarez Hnos. Turismo Patri, Plusmar, Ruta Atlántica, Expreso Carasa, Vosa, Flecha de Oro, Telebus, Transporte Automotor, La Plata S.A., Saestur

a Sport

•

n Entertainment •

Cine Atlántico, Calle 41 between 37 and 38 Cine Yanel, Calle 32 between 3 and 4 Disco Vabieka, Calle 33 between 3 and 4 Disco Voices, Calle 5 between 32 and 33 Disco Look, Calle 2 between 38 and 39 Casablanca, Calle 41 near 16. Dancing

Bingo, Calle 32 near 6

213

Golf Club de Santa Teresita covers 35 ha (87 acres) and has 18 holes. There are also tennis courts, restaurant and a riding school; @ (02246) 420140/420471. On the grounds is also a fresh water spring. Golf tournaments held in January/February

Santa Teresita

PAMPA PROVINCES •

s Excursions

Sightseeing flights: Aeroclub Santa Teresita has flights from Jorge Newbery airport

Tour operators • Tuyú Viajes, Calle 32–473 Local 1 @ 420863 fax

SIERRA DE LA VENTANA

Sierra de la Ventana Postal code: 8168 @ area code: (0291) Altitude: 250 m Distances Distance from Buenos Aires: 484 km south on RN 3 and RP 76 • Distance from Bahía Blanca: 124 km north on RP 33 then 76 •

S

ierra de la Ventana and Villa Arcadia are neighboring towns located on the eastern side of the Sierra de la Ventana on the Río Sauce Grande. Together they constitute a favorite tourist resort, and their mountainous location gives them a temperate climate with cool nights in summer. Most rain falls in spring and summer. The average summer temperature is 20°C (65°F) and in winter 8°C (45°F), with occasional snow. Although not completely forested, large patches have been planted with pine forests.

A Festivals

Before 1850 this area was well and truly Indian territory. Only after the Desert Campaign and the construction of the railroad line to Bahía Blanca was this area opened for European settlement. Indeed the first large landholder was an English company, and it is therefore not surprising to find a golf course here. This mountainous area is a favorite holiday destination, with valleys through which small rivers run. The highest mountain is Cerro Tres Picos. The tourist facilities are good and include hotels, swimming pools, and a golf course. This is also ideal trekking country for most of the year. Accommodation is also available in Villa Ventana, about 40 km north.

Festivals in Pigüé • Fiesta del Reservado: 2nd week in February. For two days gauchos show their horse riding skills, also traditional song and dance festival. Held on the shores of Laguna Las Encanadas

B Tourist information

•

E Eating out Restaurants • Caza de Campo, E. Tornquist • El Establo, Avenida San Martín • El Maitén, Iguazú 105 • Ralihue, Avenida San Martín 307 • Ser, Güemes Eating out in Villa Ventana • Restaurant La Casa de la Griega, Pilla-Huinco

I Post and telegraph

•

Sierra de la Ventana

Dirección de Turismo, Avenida Roca 15 @ 4915032

214

Post office: Correo Argentino, Avenida Roca 175

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3 Accommodation

1 2 3

Cabañas El Dique Hotel Carlitos Hotel Anay Ruca

4 8 12 14 15 16

Hotel Pilla-huinco Hotel Atero Hospedaje La Perlita Hotel Silver Golf Hotel Provincial Hospedaje Argentino

4 Eating out

5

Restaurant El Maitén

215

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0 Services

6 9

Swimming pool Golf Club Sierra de la Ventana 13 Railroad station

Sierra de la Ventana

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Sierra de la Ventana Hotels *** ** *

Silver Golf, Barrio Parque Golf ACDELPRSV E-mail: [email protected]; half board Provincial, Drago 130 near Bahía Blanca Fax 4915025; tennis, casino, golf ADEFGJLMPRSUV Atero, San Martín near Güemes AELPSV Fax @ 4915244

Hospedajes

A Argentino, Avenida Roca A La Perlita, Enrique Morón 94 • Schmidtke Karl, Cnel Suárez

LP LP

Cabañas ****

• • • • •

Ojo de Agua, Ave. San Martín 396 ABCDL Del Golf, Barrio Parque Golf Ecoparque Mepul, on road to Las Carretas El Dique, Galileo Galilei El Pinar, RN 76 KM 217 La Chabela, Avenida Sarmiento

Motels

• Maitén, Iguazú 93

@

4915079

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4915024

$D

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$F

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Accommodation in Villa Arcadia Hotels * * *

Anay Ruca, Avenida Raíces near Punta Alta AELPSV Carlitos, Avenida Coronel Suárez near Punta Alta AELPSV Pilla-Huinco, Raíces 161 near Pilla-Huinco AELPSV

Accommodation in Villa Ventana

A Hospedaje La Península, Golondrina near Cruz del Sur

Cabañas

• Ñuque Mapu, Pilla-Huinco • Pablito, Pilla-Huinco

Accommodation in Pigüé • Saavedra • Espartillar • Goyena

Accommodation on RP 76 *

Hotel El Mirador, KM 226 west of Villa Ventana DEFRS Cabins

Accommodation in Saldungaray A Hospedaje Pichu, Belgrano 136

LPS

Accommodation on nearby estancias

• Estancia Cerro de la Cruz, 5 rooms with full board AFLPR. Tennis

Sierra de la Ventana

216

BUENOS AIRES •

s Excursions

Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Malvinas

Tour operators • Geotur, Avenida San Martín 193 @ 4915186. Sr. Sergio Rodríguez organizes trekking trips into the surrounding mountains and day trips to other locations Excursions • Parque Provincial Ernesto Tornquist (Ernesto Tornquist Provincial Park): 22 km. Inside the park is the Cueva del Toro, a cave 30 m deep. You can climb to the summit and see the 8.5 m wide opening in the rock which gave the whole range its name—ventana means “window”. Inside Cueva de Corpus Christi are preHispanic rock paintings. During World War II part of the crew of the German warship Graf Spee was interned in the nearby hotel, then called the Club Hotel. There is also a trout hatchery in the park • Saldungaray is a little village 9 km south which has preserved to some extent its old-time charm. It grew around the former Fortín Pavón, built in 1883 during the Desert Campaign. The fort has been partly reconstructed. Nearby is the artificial lake Paso de las Piedras suitable for trout-fishing and water sports • The Shrine of Nuestra Señora de Luján is located 7 km west of the town of Saavedra with a backdrop formed by the low chain of the Sierra de Cura Malal. This Catholic shrine attracts thousands of pilgrims on October 12th every year. Saavedra is located 82 km north west of Sierra de la Ventana • Pigüé is a small agricultural town 103 km north. Of interest is the 15 ha (37 acre) Parque Municipal Fortunato Chiappara. Inside the wooded park are camping facilities, swimming pool, and café. Also of interest is the Museo Regional which contains memorabilia of the Conquista del Desierto (“Desert Conquest”) and pre-Colombian artefacts from the archeological site at Los Chilenos

S Buses •

Empresa El Cóndor ° Bahía Blanca: daily services ° Tornquist: daily services • Expreso de La Sierra runs three services daily to Abra de La Ventana, Saldungaray, Villa Ventana and Tornquist ($2.20) • La Estrella runs 2 services daily to Buenos Aires ($25.00; 71 2 hrs) via Bahía Blanca ($5.50) and La Plata Buses from Pigüé The bus terminal is on Avenida Avellaneda 390. • Central Argentino–Ñandú del Sur @ 45966 • La Estrella–El Cóndor @ 42927 • T.A. Chevallier–TUS–Pampa @ 42925

U Motoring •

Y.P.F–A.C.A., Avenida San Martín near Sarmiento

a Sport •

Fishing: Pejerrey fishing in the Río Sauce Grande Golf • Golf Club Sierra de la Ventana, Barrio Parque Golf @ (0291) 4915113. This is an eighteen-hole golf course with clubhouse and a tennis court. The golf course is along a small river Sport in Coronel Pringles Coronel Pringles is located 60 km east • Golf: Club de Pelota (Coronel Pringles)Boulevard near RP 51 @ (02922) 42103/42325 Sport in Coronel Suárez Coronel Suárez is located 85 km north of Sierra de la Ventana on RP 76 and RP 85. Golf • Coronel Suárez Aero Golf Club, Pbro. Mateo Llovera @ (02926) 422270/421717 • Golf and polo: Coronel Suárez Polo Club, Sección Quintas @ (02926) 422016/422547 • Polo: Polo ranch San José; information: Oficina de Turismo Coronel Suárez, Alsina 150 @ (02926) 422742

217

Sierra de la Ventana

PAMPA PROVINCES Trekking • Fuente del Bautismo; waterfall and natural ponds. With tour operator • Cerro Tres Picos; highest elevation in Buenos Aires Province, including Cerro Napostá Chico and Cueva de

•

los Guanacos. Duration 12 hrs with tour operator Garganta del Diablo (“Devil’s Gorge”) including Cerro de la Ventana. 8 hrs with tour operator

TANDIL

Tandil Population: 95 000 Postal code: 7000 @ area code: (02293) Altitude: 178 m Distances From Buenos Aires: 390 km south on RN 3 then RP 30 • From Mar del Plata: 169 km north-west on RP 226 •

T

andil is located in a fertile valley some 170 km inland in the Sierra de Tandil, a pre-Cambrian granite ridge whose highest point is Cerro La Blanca at 500 m. Tandil is named after an Indian chief who dominated this region in the nineteenth century. Nowadays it is a thriving inland center with a well-known seat of learning, the Escuela Agrotecnica which specializes in farm sciences and technology, 8 km from the town center.

Key to map D E I $

Correo Argentino Telefónica de Argentina Dirección Municipal de Turismo Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires

3 Accommodation 6 9 12 13 15 18 21 25 26 29 32

Hotel Cristal Hospedaje Kaiku Hotel Libertador Hospedaje Torino Hospedaje Helios Hotel Austral Hotel Centro Hotel Crillón Hotel Plaza Hotel Gran Roma Hostería Hostal de la Sierra

Tandil

Tandil is a center of the dairy industry. The town has excellent tourist facilities with first-class hotels, restaurants and a good night life. It is a good spot to relax or make a stopover on the way to the coast or further south. Many possibilities to

34 Hospedaje Monza

4 Eating out 3 7

8 14 16 17 19 20 22 24 27 28 31 33

Restaurant Al Ver Verás Restaurant Taberna de Manolo Cafetería Chiappas Pizzería Canternic Restaurant La Cassetta Pizzería Don Lino Cafetería Scotch Restaurant Años Locos Cafetería Antique Restaurant El Estribo Pizzería El Argentino Restaurant La Farola Restaurant Rancho Chico Restaurant Hermitage

218

5 Entertainment 5

Disco Woody

7 Tour operators and car rental 4 Localiza 23 Jonestur

9 Sights

10 Museo Fuerte Independencia 11 Museo Rural 30 Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes

0 Services 1 2

Agrupación Nido de Condores Grupo Compartir

BUENOS AIRES D Camping

hike in the nearby sierras or stay on a tourist ranch around town.

•

Camping Municipal Pinar de la Sierra: On the road to the Dique del Fuerte. Take yellow bus 500

A Festivals •

Colorful Holy Week ceremonies attract many visitors

E Eating out Cafeterías • Antique, General Rodríguez 689 • Chiappas, Mitre 760 • Olivia, 9 de Julio 725 • Scotch, 9 de Julio 760

B Tourist information •

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, 9 de Julio 555 @ 432073

Pizzerías • Canternic, General Rodríguez 765 • Don Lino, Sarmiento 680 To Azul and Olavarría

ARTIGAS

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Tandil

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Tandil Apart Hotels

• Los Cedros, Alvear 377 • Roberto Galan, Las Heras 445

ABCGLSU

@ @

446663 422682

• de las Sierras, Avenida Alejandro Fleming 951

@

420332

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Hostal de la Sierra, Avellaneda 931 ACDEFGHJKLPSTUVY @ 422330 Posada de los Pájaros, Avenida Don Bosco near C Namuncurá Fax 432013 AEFGJLPUV @ 431108

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Cabañas Hotels *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** * * * *

Hostal de la Sierra del Tandil, Ave. Avellaneda 941 Libertador, Mitre 545 ACDEFGHJKLPSTUVY Plaza, Gral. Pinto 438 ACDEFGHJKLPSTUVY Austral, 9 de Julio 725 ADEFGJLPTUVY Crillón, San Martín 455 AEFGHJLPSUV Francia, Colón 1600 AEFGHJLPUV Hermitage, Avellaneda 301 AEFGHJLPSUV Fax @ 423987 Torino, Sarmiento 502 ALPS Centro, Sarmiento 591 AEHLPSV Cristal, General Rodríguez 871 AELPV Fax 425951 Ro Che Hil, General Rodríguez 1098/1100 AELPSV Gran Roma, L.N. Alem 452 AEHLPV

Hosterías *** **

Hospedajes A A A A A A •

Helios, General Rodríguez 783 Italy, Espora near Venezuela Kaiku, Mitre 902 Monza, Avellaneda 734 Savoy, L.N. Alem near Mitre Turista, 14 de Julio 60 Rivadavia, Rivadavia 179

LP LP HLP LP LPS AFGHLPST

Accommodation on RN 226 Hotels

• Hostal el Paraíso de la Sierra KM 161.5

•

•

El Argentino, General Rodríguez 560 Restaurants • Al Ver Verás, L.N. Alem 1112. Parrilla • Años Locos, L.N. Alem 785. Parilla • El Estribo, General San Martín 750 • El Nuevo Don José, Monseñor D’Andrea 269 • Hermitage, Avenida Avellaneda 305 • La Cassetta, Sarmiento 622 • La Farola, General Pinto 681 • Rancho Chico, General Rodríguez 102. Parrilla

Tandil

•

@ @ @ @ @ @ @

426747 429923 423114 430579 425602 422626 fax 427792

@

448580

Taberna de Manolo, General Rodríguez 869 Taiwan, General Rodríguez 800

n Entertainment

• • • • •

220

Casino, Avenida Buzón block 400. Located above the bus terminal; open Wed–Mon from 21:00–02:00 Disco Lafitte, 9 de Julio near Avenida España Disco Now, Avenida Alvear 380. Bar Disco Woody, Rodríguez 887 Disco Yamó, Avenida Alvear 410

BUENOS AIRES S Buses from Tandil

The bus terminal is on Avenida Vargas between Italia and Portugal. Bus companies • Autotransporte San Juan–Mar del Plata @ 425275. • El Pampa ° La Plata • El Rápido SRL @ 442770 • El Rápido Argentino ° Mar del Plata via Balcarce ° Junín via Azul, San Carlos de Bolívar, Saladillo, 25 de Mayo, and Bragado ° Trenque Lauquen, Junín, 9 de Julio, and Pehuajó • El Pampa S.A. @ 424249, • Empresa Costera Criolla @ 425970 • Expreso Córdoba-Mar del Plata and T.A.C. @ 425275 • Expreso Córdoba-Mar del Plata @ 425275 • Río Paraná @ 414812 ° Bahía Blanca via Juárez, Adolfo Gonzáles Chaves, Dorrego, Tres Arroyos, and Punta Alta; daily services ° La Plata via Ayacucho, General Belgrano, Ranchos, Brandsen ° Mar del Plata via Balcarce; daily services ° Villa Gesell via Coronel Vidal, Madariaga, andPinamar; daily services • TIRSA @ 425275 Long-distance services • • • • • •

Destination Buenos Aires Córdoba

Fares $15.00

Mendoza Rosario San Juan Santa Rosa (La Pampa)

Services 10 daily

Duration Company 6 hrs La Estrella, Don Otto Expreso Córdoba- Mar delPlata, TUS Expreso Jocolí, T.A.C. Tirsa Autotransporte San Juan

1 daily

El Rápido Argentino

I Post and telegraph • •

Car rental • Localiza, Avenida España 545

Post office: Correo Argentino, 9 de Julio 455 Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, General Rodríguez 630

a Sport

•

L Financial •

•

Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires, General Pinto 699 @ 424760 Jonestur, General San Martín 698 @ 431838

•

M Services and facilities •

p Sightseeing

Hire of mountain bikes: Uriburu 1488 @ 428669

•

U Motoring •

Aero Club de Tandil y Club de Planeadores. sightseeing flights $15.00 per 20 minutes; also hang gliding Golf: Tandil Golf Club, Access RN 226 near Calle Colombia 15 blocks from town center on right hand side; @ (02293) 426075. Blue bus # 503

Service station: A.C.A., General Rodríguez near Belgrano

221

Museo “Fuerte Independencia, 4 de Abril 854. The museum complex used to be the actual fort. Exhibits show what it was like when it was operating as a fort. Open Tues–Sun 14:30–18:30. Take yellow bus 500

Tandil

PAMPA PROVINCES •

•

Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes (Municipal Fine Arts Museum), Chacabuco 367. Open Tues–Sun 17:00–20:00 Museo Rural (Rural Museum), Chacabuco 764. Contains an archeological collection of more than 4000 pieces; also sculptures by the artist Carlos A. Allende

•

•

s Excursions Tour operators and outdoor guides • Barbini Viajes y Turismo, Maipú 1375 @ 428612. Horse-riding, parachuting, sightseeing flights, hang-gliding • Grupo Compartir, Las Heras 346 @ 425986. Canoeing, trekking, climbing all in the Tandil area • Agrupación Nido de Condores, Necochea 166 @ 426519. Excursions, trekking and mountain biking in the Sierras de Tandil Excursions • Dique del Fuerte: Artificial lake 2 km from town center. Club de Pesca y Remo has a camping ground here;

• •

•

Club Náutico has a clubhouse here. Take yellow bus 500 Cerro El Calvario: Lourdes Grotto and Santa Gemma chapel; on top of the hill is an enormous Cross made of marble. The Via Crucis winds uphill through a forest of eucalyptus and olive trees; 1 km from town center. Take white bus 502 Reserva Natural Sierra del Tigre: Follow Avenida Don Bosco and turn right into Calle Suiza Cerro La Movediza (“Moving Stone Hill”) Rancho El Centinela, 5 km from town center @ 21985. A fully automated dairy farm with cheese-making facilities. Has a large botanical garden with exotic plants and fruit trees. Camping, hot water, showers, and toilets El Rancho de Popy, a 350 ha (864 acre) farm in the middle of the Sierra de Tandil. Pine forests and lakes on the property. Walks on trails through the mountains. One cabin for six persons. For information @ 423071

TIGRE

Tigre Postal code: 1648 @ area code: (011) Altitude: Sea level Distance from Buenos Aires: 32 km north-west on RP 27

L

ocated on the banks of the Río Luján near its mouth into the Río de la Plata, this is the starting point for excursions into the channels of the Río Paraná delta and home of numerous sporting clubs. There are also ferries to the town of Carmelo in Uruguay. Its close links with naval activity is testified by two naval museums. There are direct buses and two railway lines linking it to the center of Buenos Aires. Avoid the morning rush hour as many commute to work in Buenos Aires.

B Tourist information

There are a few hotels in town, but on the islands in the Paraná delta are so-called hosterías which although mainly eating places also offer lodgings, but not of a high standard.

•

D Camping

• •

Tigre

Ente Municipal de Turismo, Lavalle near Fernández @ 47492429

222

El Alcázar, Canal Sarmiento near junction with Río Luján El Zorzal, Río Luján east of Canal Caraguata junction

BUENOS AIRES C Accommodation in Tigre

• Casa de Familia, Montes de Oca 64 • Casa de Familia, Lavalle 557 • Hotel El Ancla, Lavalle 909

@ @ @

47494228 47492499 47492767

Accommodation in the Río Paraná delta These hosterías can only be reached by ferries. All hosterías serve meals. Hosterías @ 47280033 • Aeronavegantes, Arroyo Capachay @ 47314526 • Alpenhaus, Arroyo Rama Negra near Río Capitán • Atelier, Río Capitán near junction with Río Paraná de las Palmas @ 47280043 @ 47280053 • Bosque de Bohemia, Canal Antequera @ 47280557 • Cruz Alta, Río Paraná de las Palmas • Cruz Colorada, Canal Cruz Colorada near Río Paraná de las Palmas @ 47490537 • El Paraíso de María, north shore of Río Luján near canal Caraguatá @ 47280577 @ 47280752 • L’Marangatu, Río San Antonio near Canal Sabalos @ 47490987 • Ischia, Canal Espora near Angostura @ 47490987 • La Manuelita, Canal Espera • Las Rosas, Canal Sarmiento @ 47280114 • Río Hotel Laura, Paraná de las Palmas @ 47493898 • Llao Llao, Canal Angostura near junction with Canal Espora @ 4728033 • Tropezón, Río Paraná de las Palmas near Canal de la Serna

• •

E Eating out Restaurants • Borravino, Cazón near Bourdieu • Bristol II, Liniers 100 • Café No “C” • Chapeleo, Paseo Victorica 874 • Club Nahuel, Lavalle 235 • Costa Norte, Río Luján on North bank • Don Manuel, Paseo Victorica 290 • Don Ramón, Paseo Victorica 412 • El Tío, Paseo Victorica 202 • La Casa de Marcelo, Paseo Victorica 992 • La Casona de los Amigos, Enciso 1579 • Lo de Negri, Sarmiento 3 in the grounds of the Puerto de Frutos • Mi Esquina, Paseo Victorica 400 • Nuevo Timón, Paseo Victorica 46 • Nuevo Tío, Paseo Victorica 999 • Palace, Avenida Cazón 1519 • Toc-Toc, Paseo Victorica 454 • Y a Mi Qué, Paseo Victorica 134 Restaurants in the Delta • Gato Blanco, Río Capitán • La Riviera, Canal Abra Vieja • Manu Kai, Río San Antonio near Río de la Plata

Masmor, Canal Abra Vieja Paso del Toro, Río Capitán

S Buses

Bus No 60 goes to Buenos Aires.

T Trains

Estación Terminal de Tigre of the railroad to Retiro station is on Avenida de Las Naciones Unidas corner of Avenida Cazón.

Q Border crossing

Ferries depart daily from Cacciola Viajes Terminal Internacional at Lavalle 520 for Carmelo in Uruguay. Argentine passport control is here.

# Water transport River tours • Cacciola Viajes y Turismo, Puerto de Tigre, Lavalle 520 @ 47490931/2369 fax; excursions to Isla Martín García • Catamaranes Interisleña, Lavalle 499 @ 47310261/62/63/64; services through the Río Paraná delta

223

Tigre

PAMPA PROVINCES To Belén de Escobar 1

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To Buenos Aires

•

Mon–Fri 13:00–16:00, weekends 13:00–17:00, duration 11 2 hrs Sturla @ Cía, Estación Fluvial Tigre local 10 @ 47311749. Trips through the Paraná delta Mon–Sat 16:00 Sun 15:00, duration 11 2 hrs.

Sport in Benavídez Benavídez is located 12 km west of Tigre; postal code: 1621. • Club Newman, RN 9 KM 39.5 @ (02327) 481056/481296. Golf • Lagunitas Golf Club, RP 27 KM 11 Curva Banco Nación @ 47470677/44402375 Sport in Escobar Escobar is located 24 km west of Tigre on RN 9. • Náutico Escobar Country Club, Avenida Kennedy El Cazador @ (02321) 421731. Golf

a Sport • •

The Tigre boat club, founded in 1888, is open for limited periods to British or American visitors for a small fee Golf: Club Náutico Hacoaj RP 27 near G. Galilei @ 7477440

Tigre

224

BUENOS AIRES Key to map A

Parroquia Nuestra Señora de la Inmaculada Concepción Municipalidad (Town hall) Ente Municipal de Turismo Bus terminal

C I T

3 Accommodation

20 Hospedaje Casa de Familia 23 Hospedaje Casa de Familia

4 Eating out 1 2

Restaurant Bristol II Restaurant La Casa de Marcelo Restaurant Nuevo Tío Tigre Boat Club

3 4

5 8 9 12 13 14 15 17 18 19 25 26 27 28 30

Restaurant Chapeleo Restaurant Toc-Toc Restaurant Don Ramón Restaurant Mi Esquina Restaurant Don Manuel Restaurant El Tío Restaurant Costa Norte Restaurant Y a mi qué Restaurant Nuevo Timón Restaurant Club Nahuel Restaurant La Casona de los Amigos Restaurant Café No “C” Restaurant Palace Restaurant Borravino Restaurant Lo de Negri

9 Sights 6

Museo Naval de la Nación

p Sightseeing •

•

•

7 10 11 16 29

Museo Sarmiento de la Reconquista Antigua Aduana Museo Histórico de la Prefectura Naval Argentina Amacén Faggionato Puerto de Frutos

0 Services

21 Estación Terminal de Tigre of the FGBM 22 Estación Fluvial Tigre, Cacciola Viajes y Turismo and Catamaranes Interisleña, and Sturla & Cia, 24 Tren de la Costa

Liniers 818. On exhibit are pieces and documents relating to the English invasions during the Napoleonic Wars. Open Wed– Fri 10:00–18:00 and Sat, Sun 14:00–18:00

Museo Histórico de la Prefectura Naval Argentina (Historic Museum of the Argentine Naval Prefecture), Liniers 1264. In six rooms are displayed navy uniforms and diving gear and one hall is dedicated to the history of the Argentine Navy. Open Sat, Sun 10:00–12:00 and 14:00–18:00 Museo Naval de la Nación (National Naval Museum), Victoria 602. On exhibit are scale models of former and present naval ships, busts and pictures of naval heroes, weapons, navigational instruments, and maps. Open Mon–Thurs 08:00–12:30 and Sat, Sun 10:00–18:30 Museo Sarmiento de la Reconquista (Sarmiento Reconquest Museum),

s Excursions

•

Parque de la Costa: This tourist complex operates a railroad line along the Río de la Plata to Olivos north of Buenos Aires, as well as catamarans in the delta. The starting point for the Tren de la Costa is the Estación Terminal Delta near the junction of the Río Tigre into the Río Luján near Montes de Oca. Inside the park is a giant screen used to show films. Admission $20.00 for adults and $12.00 for children

TRES ARROYOS

Tres Arroyos Population: 40 000 Postal code: 7500 @ area code: (02983) Distances • From Buenos Aires: 515 km south on RN 3 • From Bahía Blanca: 195 km east on RN 3

L

ocated inland on the Río Claromecó, Tres Arroyos was founded in 1884. Many of the townsfolk are of Dutch descent. Cattle and wheat are the backbone of the district’s economy. Tres Arroyos is a convenient stopover on the 225

Tres Arroyos

PAMPA PROVINCES way to the beach resorts of Claromecó, Punta Desnudez, and Reta. The facilities of the last two are included here under their respective headings. Punta Desnudez (also called Orense) is located 80 km east of Tres Arroyos; @ area code: (02982); reached on RP 228 and RP 73, the latter being a dirt road. This is a fledgling seaside resort with only one hotel; this is the ideal place for those who want to escape the hustle and bustle of the larger Atlantic seaside resorts. Take the Lobimar bus in Tres Arroyos. Reta is located 77 km south of Tres Arroyos in a heavily wooded area. @ area code: (02982); reached on RN 3 and then on RP 72 which is partly a dirt road. It also is a developing seaside resort with several hotels, camping, and discos. Take bus La Primera Dorreguense in Tres Arroyos. The best fishing spots are at Segundo Médano. There is pejerrey

fishing in Río Quequén Salado; the locals also organize deep-sea fishing cruises.

B Tourist information

• •

Dirección de Turismo, Brandsen 181 @ 427091/92 fax 431648 Delegación A.C.A, Colón near Lavalle @ 427049

Tourist information in Reta • Oficina de Turismo, Calle 29 near 50 @ (02982) 490012

D Camping Camping in Reta • Camping Martín Reta, Avenida Stella Maris near 54.; $J 1

E Eating out Cafeterías • Aristóbulo, 9 de Julio 45 • La Perla, Avenida Moreno 167 Parrillas • El Rincón de Carlos, H. Yrigoyen 370 • Manhattan, Alsina 158 • Troppo, Avenida Moreno 121

C Accommodation in Tres Arroyos Hotels ****

Parque, Pellegrini 23

Alfil, Rivadavia 142 *** San Jorge, J. Ingenieros 101 * Hostería Andrea, Istilart 228 * La Catalana, Maipú 187 • Petit Hotel, Alsina 1567 ***

ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ ADEKPSV @ @ @

Residenciales

B Hostería Plaza, Chacabuco 440

Accommodation in Punta Desnudez • Hotel Bahía Punta Desnudez

431360 432100 427010 426214 431353 424318

@

427083

@

420264

$H

2

@

(02983) 490064

@ @

$F (02983) 490006 $F (02983) 490048

2 2

@

(02983) 490018

Accommodation in Reta Hotels • • • •

Che Tango, Calle 44 near 27 Los Alamos, Calle 28 near 49 Pergamino, Calle 29 near 58 full board San Sebastián, Avenida Stella Maris near 52

Departamentos

• Santa Rosa, Calle 25 near 48

Tres Arroyos

226

BUENOS AIRES •

Pizzerías • Bristol Center II, Larrea near Pringles • Ciao, Maipú 80 • Don Peppone, Colón near Lavalle Restaurants • Austral, Caseros near RN 3 • El Reloj, Maipú 1460 • Nueva Onda, Colón near P.N. Carrera • La Tuerca, Alsina 560 Eating out in Reta • Restaurant Don Ernesto, Calle 48 near 25 • Restaurant El Fogón, Calle 48 near 25 • Restaurant Yanqui–Hue, Calle 31 near 46

Empresa Detroit @ 426335: to Claromecó • Empresa La Primera Dorreguense @ 426335: to Reta • La Estrella @ 423171, Plusmar @ 427399: to Buenos Aires ( 9 hrs); 7 daily • La Estrella–El Cóndor: to Buenos Aires and Bahía Blanca @ (02983) 423171 • Plusmar: to Buenos Aires and Bahía Blanca Buses from Reta The bus terminal is on Avenida Stella Maris near 52 @ 490048. • Empresa Abel y Marcial García runs direct buses to and from Buenos Aires

Eating out in Punta Desnudez • Restaurant La Taberna de Huinca, Avenida Los Aromos near Los Eucaliptos

•

U Motoring a Sport

•

n Entertainment

• Timoteo Pub, Pellegrini 34 Entertainment in Reta • Disco Brujas, Calle 42 between 17 and 19 • Disco Vavieka, Calle 46 between 31 and 33 Entertainment in Punta Desnudez • Confitería Dunas

Golf: Tres Arroyos Golf Club, Juan B. Justo 200 @ (02983) 422781/422075

p Sightseeing

•

Museo José A. Mulazzi (José A. Mulazzi Museum). On exhibit are archeological objects found in the vicinity

s Excursions Tour operators • Cambex, Maipú 37 @ 431383 • Top Turismo, Avenida Moreno 525 @ 431390 • Claromecó: Beach, 65 km south on RP 73. See Claromecó on page 129 Excursions from Punta Desnudez • In the nineteenth century two forts were built on the Arroyo Cristiano Muerte to safeguard the southern limit of European advancement. This was the place of some confrontation between the Argentine Army and indigenous tribes. It can only be reached with 4WD vehicles along the beach • Salto de Julián: Some 11 km south on a small protected beach. It can only be reached with 4WD vehicles along the beach

I Post and telegraph •

Post office: Correo de Argentina, Maipú 276 • Telephone: Public telephone, Maipú 274 Post and telegraph in Reta • Post Office: Correo de Argentina, Calle 50 between 35 and 37

L Financial •

Service station: A.C.A., Colón near Lavalle

Banco Provincial de Buenos Aires, Colón near H. Yrigoyen

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Avenida San Martín 1403 @ 423171 with restaurant, café, and clean rest rooms. • Empresa Lobimar and Empresa Yanacone @ 426335: to Punta Desnudez • Empresa Pampas: regular services to Bahía Blanca and Mar del Plata

227

Tres Arroyos

PAMPA PROVINCES

VILLA GESELL

Villa Gesell Population: 15 000 Postal code: 7165 @ area code: (02255) Distances From Buenos Aires: 400 km south on RN 1 then Ruta 2 and RN 74 • From Mar Del Plata: 130 km northward on RP 11 •

V

illa Gesell owes its existence to the doggedness of a German immigrant who from 1931 onwards planted thousands of pine and eucalyptus trees in the area to stabilize the shifting sand dunes. After many setbacks he succeeded, and Villa Gesell is now a very popular beach resort. The dunes to the north and south have partially given way to pine forests now, and there are some camping facilities. The sandy beach extends for 62 km. •

The facilities include a first class golf course, excellent hotels and restaurants and a vibrant night life. There are good bus and air connections to the rest of the country. When coming by train alight in General Madariaga 45 km east of town. The water temperature in summer is 25°C (75°F) and in winter 10°C (50°F). Getting around is easy: the north–south streets are called Avenidas and the east–west ones are called Paseos. Mar de las Pampas is a small beach resort some 13 km south of Villa Gesell with one hostería; @ code: 0255. The beaches are forested. There are regular local buses.

D Camping

The distance of each camping ground to the beach is given in meters after the address. • Africa, Avenida Buenos Aires and Circunvalación, 1700 @ 468507. Restaurant • Autocamping Mar Azul, Ruta Interbalnearia KM 11, just off the roundabout outside Villa Gesell. Restaurant • California, Avenida Buenos Aires near Avenida Circunvalación, 1700 m @ 468346 • Caravan, Avenida Circunvalación near Paseo 101, 1400 m @ 468259; restaurant; open December/February • Casablanca, Avenida 3, south of the town center, 100 m. Restaurant; open all year • El Pinar, Alameda 214 near Avenida Buenos Aires, 1400 m @ 468219 • Mar Dorado, Avenida 3, south of the town center, 100 m. Restaurant; open all year

A Festivals • • •

Pineapple festival: July December 8th: Fiesta de la Inmaculada Concepción February: Election of the Summer Queen

E Eating out

B Tourist information •

•

Villa Gesell; Web page: www.gesell. com.ar

International cuisine Dirección de Turismo, Avenida 3–820 Meals cost from $Y. @ 463055 fax; Web page: turisRestaurants [email protected] • Bocaccio, Avenida 3 near Paseo 125 & Información Turística Norte, • El Candil, Avenida 3 near Paseo 143 Avenida Buenos Aires near Paseo del Golf @ 468596

Villa Gesell

228

BUENOS AIRES VILLA GESELL BOULEVARD GESELL

AVE. 11

AVE. 10

AVE. 9

AV E. 8

AV E. 7

AV E. 6

To Mar Azul

AV E. 5

C

AV E. 4 To T

I E

AV E. 3

$ 11

$

PA S E

06

O 105

EO 1

MAR ARGENTINO

PA S

PASEO 109

1

PA SE O 110

PA SE O 11

PASE O 112

PASE O 113

PASEO 114

AVE. 1

PASEO 107

PASE O 108

AVE. 2

To Pinamar

D

C

Municipalidad

D

Correo Argentino

E

Telefónica

I

Información Turística

$

Money Exchange

T

Bus terminal Entertainment

& • • • • • • •

El Zamorano, Paseo 104 near Avenida 3 La Cabaña, Avenida 3 near Paseo 119 La Canasta, Avenida 3 (between Paseo 102 and 104) Samoana, Avenida 3 near Paseo 102 Arturito, Avenida 3 (between Paseo 126 and Paseo 127). Parrilla Club Deportivo Español, Avenida Buenos Aires (between Avenida 3 and Avenida 4). Parrilla Doña Julia, Avenida 5 (between & Avenida 105 and Avenida 106). Parrilla

229

• • • • • •

El Casco, Avenida Buenos Aires near Alameda 204. Parrilla El Rincón de Fermín, Paseo 105 near Avenida 2. Parrilla El Establo, Avenida 3 (between Avenida Buenos Aires and Avenida 102). Parrilla El Estribo, Avenida Buenos Aires near Alameda 203 La Jirafa Azul, Avenida 3 near Paseo 102 La Taberna de Don Ramón, Avenida 3 near Paseo 124

Villa Gesell

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Villa Gesell Hotels open all year **** *** *** ***

&

** * * * *

Bahía Club de Playa, Avenida 1–855 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 462838 Apolo, Paseo 104 near Avenida 2 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 468761 Merimar, Paseo 107 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 462243 Tequendama, Paseo 109 near Avenida 1, on beach front @ 462829 Fax 462866 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Bella Vista, Paseo 114 near Avenida 1 AEFGJLPUV @ 462293 Cantábrico, Paseo 102 near Avenida 2 AELPSV @ 462835 Colón, Avenida 4 near Paseo 104 AELPV @ 462310 Royal, Avenida 3 between Paseo 110 and Paseo 110 bis AELPV @ 462411 Silmar, Avenida 3 between Paseo 137 and Paseo 138 AELPV @ 466065

$C $D

2 2

$E

2

$E 2 $F/G 2 $F/G 2 $F/G 2 $F/G 2

Hotels open October–April **** **** **** **** *** *** ** *

ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 463165 Delfín Azul, Paseo 104 between Avenida 4 and Avenida 5 @ 462521 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Gran Internacional, Paseo 103 near Avenida 1 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 468672 Terrazas Club, Paseo 104 near Avenida 1 ACDEFGHJKLMNPS$TUVYZ @ 462181 Palace, Alameda 203 near Avenida Buenos Aires ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 468369 Riviera, Avenida 1 near Paseo 107 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 462217 Abetaia, Avenida 5 between Paseos 104 and 105 AEFGJLPSUV @ 462454 Gran Chalet, Paseo 105 between Avenida 4 and Avenida 5 AELPV @ 462913 Coliseo, Avenida 1 near Paseo 107

$C $D

2 2

$C

2

$C

2

$D $E

2 2

$E

2

$F/G 2

Hotels open December–April *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** **

Atlántico, Avenida 1 near Paseo 105 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 462561 Capri, Paseo 108 between Avenida 1 and Avenida 2 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 462234 Tejas Rojas, Paseo 108 near Avenida 1 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 462274/462565 Topaco, Paseo 104 near Avenida 1 bis ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 462020/468775 Adriático, Alameda 202 near Avenida Buenos Aires AEFGJLPUV @ 468358 Augusta, Avenida 2 between Paseo 108 and Paseo 109 AEFGJLPUV @ 462366 Belvedere, Avenida Buenos Aires between Paseo 105 and Paseo 106 AEFGJLPUV @ 468399 Cervantes, Avenida 3 near Paseo 120 AEFGJLPUV @ 462435 de Poi, Paseo 142 between Avenida 3 and Avenida 4 AEFGJLPSUV @ 466031 Don Carlos, Avenida 3 near Paseo 102 AEFGJLPUV @ 462398 Horizonte, Avenida 1 near Paseo 119 AEFGJLPUV @ 462294 Ispra, Paseo 109 near beach front AEFGJLPUV @ 462391 Kaikén, Avenida 2 near Paseo 121 AEFGJLPUV @ 462791 Lincoln, Avenida 1 near Paseo 103 AEFGJLPUV @ 468769 Mallorca, Paseo 134 between Avenida 2 and Avenida 3 AEFGJLPUV @ 466163

Villa Gesell

230

$E

2

$D $D $D

2 2 2

$E

2

$E

2

$E $E

2 2

$F/G $E $E $E $F/G $E

2 2 2 2 2 2

$E

2

BUENOS AIRES Accommodation in Villa Gesell — continued ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * * * * * * *

Mamajuma, Paseo 111 AEFGJLPUV Marina, Avenida 2 near Paseo 108 AEFGJLPUV Massa, Avenida 1 between Paseo 107 and Paseo 108 AEFGJLPSUV Romadrid, Avenida 1 near Avenida Buenos Aires AEFGJLPUV Sahara, Paseo 112 between Avenida 1 and Avenida 3 AEFGJLPUV Silvana, Avenida 3 between Paseo 111 and Paseo 112 AEFGJLPUV Venezia, Avenida 1 between 107/108 AEFGJLPUV Vesubio, Avenida 4 between Paseo 112 and Paseo 113 AEFGJLPUV Albatros, Paseo 141 bis between Avenida 3 and Avenida 4 AELPV Arenas, Avenida 2 near Paseo 115 AELPV Barracuda, Paseo 121, on beach front AELPV Bero, Avenida 4 near Paseo 141 AELPV Cocco’s, Avenida 1 between Paseo 110 and Paseo 111 AELPV Gran Mar, Avenida 1 between Paseos 119 and 120 AELPV Maracas, Avenida 1 near Paseo 103 AELPV Pourrally, Avenida 3 near Paseo 134 AELPV Quetrihue, Paseo 141 between Avenida 3 and Avenida 4 AELPV Victoria, Avenida 3 between Paseo 114 and Paseo 115 AELPV

@ @

463106 462228

$E $E

2 2

@

462226

$E

2

@

468368

$E

2

@

462208

$E

2

@ @

462597 462231

$E $E

2 2

@

462748

$E

2

@ @ @ @

466179 462345 463260 466077

$F/G $F/G $F/G $F/G

2 2 2 2

@

462580

$F/G 2

@ @ @

462083 468779 466160

$H 2 $F/G 2 $F/G 2

@

466476

$F/G 2

@

462775

$F/G 2

Hotels open December–March *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * *

Cap Arcona, Avenida 1 between Paseo 117 and Paseo 118 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 462209 Danubio, Paseo 105 between Avenida 2 and 3 AEFGJLPUV @ 462328 El Duri, Paseo 116 between Avenida 2 and Avenida 3 AEFGJLPUV @ 462551 Internacional, Paseo 103 AEFGJLPUV @ 468747 Norte, Alameda 205 near Calle 305 AEFGJLPUV @ 468041 Sayonara, Avenida 2 near Paseo 119 AEFGJLPUV @ 462619 Tamanacos, Paseo 103 bis between Avenida 1 and the beach front AEFGJLPUV @ 468753 Verona, Avenida 1 near Paseo 105 AEFGJLPSUV @ 462465 Lilian, Avenida 3 between Paseo 114 and Paseo 115 AELPV @ 462316 Neptuno, Avenida 3 between Paseo 127 and Paseo 128 AELPV @ 462376 Sekand, Avenida 1 between Paseo 116 and Paseo 117 AELPSV @ 462036

$D

2

$E

2

$E $E $E $E

2 2 2 2

$E $E

2 2

$F/G 2 $F/G 2 $F/G 2

Hosterías open all year *** *** *

Actinia, Avenida 3 between Paseo 120 and 121 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ El Velero, Avenida 3–310 between Paseos 102 and Paseo 104 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Mar Azul, Avenida 4–648 AELPSV @

231

463103

$G

2

462256 462457

$D $G

2 2

Villa Gesell

PAMPA PROVINCES Accommodation in Villa Gesell — continued Hosterías open October–April *

Aloha, Paseo 104 between Avenida 1 and Avenida 2 AELPV

Hosterías open December–April *** ** ** **

Tirol, Avenida 2 near Paseo 110

ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY

Alpina, Calle 307–609 AEFGJLPUV Bamba, Paseo 108 near Avenida 1 AEFGJLPUV City Mar, Paseo 119 near Avenida 1 AEFGJLPUV

Hosterías open January–April **

Flor de Lis, Avenida 4 near Paseo 104 AEFGJLPUV

Hospedajes

A Antonio, Avenida 4 near Paseos 104 LP A Arglahu, Avenida 5 near Paseos 104 LP A Ceferino, Paseo 117 between Avenidas 2 and 3 Open all year LPS A Odisea, Avenida 1 near Paseo 119 Open January/February LP

@

468795

$F/G 2

@ @ @ @

462011 468066 462681 462348

$F $F $H $G

2 2 1 2

@

462529

$E

2

@ @

462246 462377

$I $H

1 2

@

462502

$H

1

@

462055

$H

1

@

469538

$E

2

Accommodation in Mar de las Pampas ***

Hostería Mapuche, Juez Repetto near R Peñaloza ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

•

Los Sobrinos, Avenida 4 (between Paseo 105 and Paseo 104) • Pleno Sol, Avenida 3 (between Paseo 133 and Paseo 135) & • Rocinante, Avenida Buenos Aires between Avenida 3 and Alameda 203 Pizzerías • Cosco Inna, Avenida 3 near Paseo 105 • Don Juan, Avenida Buenos Aires near Alameda 203 • Mafalda, Avenida 3 near Paseo 118 • Michelangelo, Avenida 3 near Paseo 105 • Pinocchio, Avenida 3 near Paseo 104 • Ventura II, Avenida 3 near Paseo 121

Eating out in Mar de las Pampas • Confitería Viejos Tiempos, Leoncio Paiva near Avenida Cruz del Sur

n Entertainment

• • • •

• • •

Cafeterías • Bacara, Avenida 3 near Paseo 106 • Barajas, Avenida 3 and Paseo 104 • Cachavacha, Avenida 3 near Paseo 108. Bar • Mono Cafetero, Paseo 105 between Avenida 3 and Avenida 3 bis • Nostalgias, Avenida 3 between Paseo 105 and Paseo 106 • Sagitario, Avenida 3 near Paseo 140 • Torino, Avenida 3 near Paseo 104

• • • •

I Post and telegraph

• •

Villa Gesell

Cine Genilo, Avenida 3 near Paseo 136 Disco All Right, Avenida 3 between Avenida Buenos Aires and Paseo 102 Disco Caribe, Avenida Buenos Aires between Avenida 8 and Avenida 10 Disco Chocolate, Paseo 103 bis near Costanera Disco Dixit, Paseo 106 near Avenida 3 Disco Paladu, Paseo 103 bis near Avenida 1 Disco Sabash, Paseo 103 (between Avenida 1 and Costanera) Disco Tango, Avenida 2 near Paseo 104 Disco Dali, Paseo 103 bis near beach Pub Dogos, Paseo 104 near Avenida 2 Pub Del Biografo, Avenida 3 near Paseo 105

232

Post office: Correo, Avenida 3 (between Paseo 105 and Paseo 106) Telephone: Cooperativa Telefónica, Avenida 3 near Paseo 113

BUENOS AIRES S Buses from Villa Gesell

The bus terminal is on Avenida 3 near Paseo 140, some distance south of the town center @ 466058. Bus companies • Empresa Antón @ 466053 • El Rápido Argentino @ 466344 • Montemar @ 466611 • El Pampa @ 466611 • Río de la Plata @ 466058 • Río Paraná @ 466611 • Ruta Atlántica @ 466611 • In the holiday season also Rutamar, Alberino, and Compañía Argentina de Turismo Long-distance services • Buenos Aires ($20.00; 7 hrs); 13 daily • La Plata • Luján • Pinamar (1 2 hour); 8 daily • Mar del Plata ($6.20; 2 hrs); 8 daily • Santa Clara del Mar and San Clemente del Tuyú •

L Financial •

Water-skiing at the far end of the beach near Paseo 112 and 131 Riding schools and horse hire • Tante Puppi, Boulevard near Buenos Aires • Yoni, Avenida 3 near Paseo 156 Tennis • Tennis Norte, corner of Alameda 205 and Calle 310 @ 468168 • Tennis Caravan, corner of Avenida Circunvalación and Paseo 101 @ 469259 • Tennis Posta Carreta, Avenida 1 between Paseo 109 and Paseo 110 @ 462526

Banco de la Provincia de Buenos Aires, Avenida 3 (between Paseo 107 and Paseo 108). Cash advances on Visa card. ATM

M Services and facilities •

Bicycle hire: Casa Macca Avenida Buenos Aires 447

N Clubs •

Chess: Círculo de Ajedrez, Avenida 3 (between Paseo 110 and Paseo 110 bis)

R Air services •

Aerolíneas Argentinas, Avenida Buenos Aires near Avenida 10 @ 468331. Several flights daily to Buenos Aires

p Sightseeing

•

U Motoring •

Service station: A.C.A., Avenida 3 between Paseo 112 and Paseo 113

a Sport • • • •

Golf: Villa Gesell Golf Club, Paseo del Golf @ 62249. Also tennis courts; 9 holes Rifle Range: Club de Casa y Pesca de Villa Gesell, Paseo 150 near beach Bowling: Friends, Avenida 3 between Paseo 105 and 106 Tennis: Norte, Alameda 205 near Calle 310

Museo Histórico Municipal (Municipal Historical Museum). Located at the northern end of town in the former house of the town’s founder Carlos Idaho Gesell; surrounded by a pine forest

s Excursions Tour operators • Costamar, Avenida 4 (between Paseo 104 and Paseo 105) @ 462340 Excursions • Northern end of Laguna Mar Chiquita and Pinamar: Both are

233

Villa Gesell

PAMPA PROVINCES •

•

within easy reach of Villa Gesell by frequent buses Jueguelandia, Avenida 3 between Paseo 125 and Paseo 126. This is a Disneyland theme park

Faro Querandí: A lighthouse located 30 km south of town, surrounded by a mixed pine/eucalyptus forest. Use 4WD vehicles

ZÁRATE

Zárate Population: 85 000 Postal code: 2800 @ area code: (03487) Distance from Buenos Aires: 89 km north-west on RN 9

Z

árate is located on the Río Paraná de las Palmas, best known for the Zárate–Brazo Largo road–rail technical complex which spans the Río Paraná and links the provinces of Buenos Aires and Entre Ríos. • • • • •

Besides being an important road and rail junction, it is also a highly industrialized city. It has refrigeration plants and paper factories, and the Atomic Energy Center of Atucha is nearby. Buses and trains run frequently between Zárate and Buenos Aires. There are excursion boats departing from Zárate.

n Entertainment

• • •

Casablanca, R. Noya 742. Dancing Garage, Ameghino 655. Dancing Imagen, R. Noya 745. Dancing

I Post and telegraph

B Tourist information •

Club Argentino, 19 de Marzo 355 Tiempos Viejos, Castelli 750 Roal, De la Torre 1300 Montero, De la Torre 1000 Centro de Comercio, Ituzaingó 635

•

Palacio Municipal, Apolo XI @ 421804 fax

Post office: Encotesa, Dr. F. Pagola 35

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Brown 335. • Empresa Micromar ° Rosario ($11.00; 3 hrs); 6 daily ° Buenos Aires ($4.40; 1 hour); 6 daily • Expreso Paraná, Alte. Brown 355 (2800) @ (02328) 423897 fax (02328) 424783

E Eating out Cafeterías • Salasa, Independencia 850 • Ceres, J. Lima 360 Restaurants • Círculo Social, 19 de Marzo 150 • Club Independiente, Independencia 963

C Accommodation in Zárate Hotels *** *

Palace, 19 de Marzo 333 San Martín, J. Lima de Atucha 496

Hospedajes A A A A

Zárate

Hospedaje Panambí, Ituzaingó 562 Welcome, J Lima de Atucha 340 Carvallo, Calle 7–310 Venecia, 19 de Marzo 651

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AEFLPV

@ @

424228 422713

$F $F

2 2

LP DFLP LP LP

@ @ @ @

422084 422622 480229 424579

$G $F $H $H

2 2 2 2

234

BUENOS AIRES °

Buenos Aires ($4.40; 1 hour) via Campana, Escobar, the Intersection of Panamericana and RP 197, Saavedra, Villa Ballester, and San Martín; 6 daily

bridges each 550 m long and stands 50 m over the river level, the total length together with the access roads mostly through swampy area is 6.5 km, while the length of the railroad section is 10 km. This major engineering feat took six years to build and was completed in November 1977

U Motoring

There is a toll bridge over the Brazo Largo complex. • A.C.A., Independencia 450 @ 421507

s Excursions

T Trains

•

Fast trains run from Zárate to Buenos Aire and Rosario.

a Sport •

Club Náutico Zárate, Rivadavia @ 422358. Restaurant • Golf: Smithfield Golf Club, RN 12 KM 64 @ 43226223/9585 • Tenis Club Zárate, Villa Smithfield Sport in Capilla del Señor Located 35 km south on RP 6 • Golf: Indio-Cua Country Club, Ruta 6 KM 27 @ (02323) 47333

p Sightseeing •

The Zárate–Brazo Largo Complex over the Río Paraná consists of two

Stopovers

I

Estancia Las Palmas located on the Río Paraná is accessed from RN 9 KM 96. The estancia, founded by the Jesuits, is now private property. The main building dates from last century and the park is dotted with century old trees. During the English invasions the estancia was used as a POW camp. On the property is a trout farm, and llamas; there are also a swimming pool and tennis court; fishing trips and water sports are organized. The Salón de los Recuerdos (“Remembrance Room”) exhibits historic memorabilia. Gaucho events and parrillas are organized also

STOPOVERS

n this section I have listed those towns which are not on the normal tourist trail but have some facilities. •

Hotel Chimpay, E. Violante 36 @ (02388) 471173 Arrecifes Nearest town described: San Antonio de Areco 65 km east on RN 8 (page 194) • Hotel Acapulco, RN 8 near RN 91 @ (02478) 452084 • Hotel Arrecifes, RN 8 KM 176 @ (02478) 452992 • Hotel el Ceibo, RN 8 KM 175 @ (02478) 453492 Avellaneda Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; part of greater Buenos Aires south • Hotel López, Ave. B. Mitre 168 @ (011) 42012712

Adolfo González Chaves Nearest town described: Tres Arroyos 43 km south on RN 3 (page 225) • Hotel Central, A.P. de Elicagaray @ (02983) 481318 • Hotel Paris, J.Elicagaray near Sarmiento @ (02983) 481535 Alberti Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 200 km east on RN 5 • Hotel Estrella, San Martín 146 @ (02346) 471211 Ameghino Postal code: 6064 Nearest town described: Junín 150 km east on RN 188 (page 134) 235

Stopovers

PAMPA PROVINCES •

Hotel Libertad, Ruta 205 near Ave. Libertad @ (02226) 430880 • Hotel Los Conco Hermanos, Libertad 1800 @ (02226) 421344 Carlos Casares Nearest town described: Junín 152 km north on RN 5 and RP 65 (page 134) • Hotel Gran Hotel Carlos Casares, Maipú @ (02395) 452270

Ayacucho Nearest town described: Tandil 70 km south east on RP 74 (page 218) *** Hotel Plaza, 9 de Julio 970 @ (02296) 452300 • Hotel Ayacucho Palace, L.N. Alem 872 @ (02296) 452629 Belén de Escobar Nearest town described: Pilar 16 km south on RP 25 (page 187) • Hostería del Caballito Blanco, Ruta Panamericana KM 51 @ (02488) 420310 • Hostería Solana de Escobar, Panamericana KM 51 @ (02488) 420665 • Hotel de la Flor, J.M. Estrada 926 @ (02488)426924 • Hotel Sans Souci, B. De Irigoyen 548 @ (02488) 420343 • Hotel Paris, Rivadavia 631 @ (02488) 420456 Bella Vista Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; part of greater Buenos Aires west • Hotel Carjoma, Zuviría 1470 @(011) 46641222 Benito Juárez Postal code: 7020 Nearest town described: Tandil 84 km north on RP 74 (page 218) • Hotel Juárez, Ave. E. Zabala near San Martín @/fax (02292) 452664 • Residencial Colonial, C. Zibecchi 26 @ (02292) 2439 Bolívar Nearest town described: Olavarría 114 km south-east on RN 226 (page 184) • Hotel Horizonte, Ave. Almte Brown 224 @ (02314) 428963 • Hotel La Zamorana, B. Mitre 270 @ (02314) 428665 • Hotel Plaza, San Martín 102 @ (02314) 427506 • Hotel San Carlos, Ave. Brown near Alsina @ (02314) 420320 Cachari Nearest town described: Azul 115 km south on RN 3 (page 110) • Hotel La Paz, 9 de Julio 179 @ (02281) 481040 Cañuelas Nearest town described: Lobos 38 km south on RN 205 (page 140)

Stopovers

Carmen de Areco Nearest town described: San Antonio de Areco 46 km north-west (page 194) • Hotel Carmen de Areco RN 7 KM 13 @ (02273) 442543 Caseros Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; part of greater Buenos Aires west • Hotel Acosta, 3 de Febrero 2812 @ (011) 47598725 • Hotel Plaza, Carlos Tejedor 4896 @ (011) 47508968 • Hotel Tropezón, Asamblea 4661 @ (011) 47504130 Castelli Nearest town described: Chascomús 61 km north on RN 2 (page 127) • Hotel Don Fausto, Tucumán 53 @ (02245) 480116 Chacabuco Nearest town described: Junín 60 km west on RN 7 (page 134) • Hotel Avenida, Ave. Lamadrid 103 @ (02352) 450929 • Residencial Golia, Avellaneda 43 @ (02352) 427233 • Hotel Unión, San Lorenzo 69 @ (02352) 428309 Chillar Nearest town described: Azul 62 km north on RN 3 (page 110) • Hotel El Descanso, J.E. Uriburu near RN 3 @ (02281) 497132 Chivilcoy Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 160 km north-east on RN 7 • Hotel Avenida, Ave. de Tomaso @ (02346) 424934 • Hotel Centro, Necochea 34 @ (02346) 422444 • Hotel Chivilcoy, Ave. Sarmiento 125 @ (02346) 430700 • Hotel Falcone, Belgrano 201 @ (02346) 420116 236

BUENOS AIRES •

Hotel Iglesias, Pueyrredón 115 @ (02346) 422322 • Hotel Necochea, Necochea 24 @ (02346) 423492 • Hotel Patri, Ave. Ceballos 163 @ (02346) 424044 • Hotel Petit Hotel, H. Yrigoyen 259 @ (02346) 434242 Colón Nearest town described: Junín 107 km south on RP 31 and RN 188 (page 134) • Hotelera Mediterránea, Calle 47–1061 @ (02473) 423070 Coronel Dorrego Nearest town described: Monte Hermoso 40 km south on RN 3 and RP 78 (page 173) • Hotel San Martín, San Martín 566 @ (02921) 453218 • Hotel América, A.B. Costa 756 F @ (02921) 452455 Coronel Pringles Nearest town described: Sierra de la Ventana 99 km west (page 214) • Hotel Avenida, Cnel Dorrego 1181 @ (02922) 465412/462083 • Hotel Pringles, Stegmann 656 @ (02922) 462050 • Residencial Lafaille, Ave, 25 de Mayo 654 @ (02922) 462148 Coronel Suárez Nearest town described: Guaminí 64 km north on RP 85 (page 133) • Hotel Gran Hotel Coronel Suárez, Mitre near Brandsen @ (02926) 421095 • Hotel Laval, Ave. Casey near Brandsen @ (02926) 422142 • Hotel Gran Hotel Torino, Ave. Casey near Sarmiento @ (02926) 422103 • Hotel Plaza, Belgrano near Lavalle @ (02926) 421042 Daireaux Nearest town described: Guaminí 82 km south-west on RP 65 (page 133) • Hotel Daireaux, Alsina 40 @ (02316) 452155 • Hotel Don Pepo, J. Newbery 88 @ (02316) 452543 Dolores Nearest town described: Chascomús 85 km north on RN 2 (page 127) • Hotel Plaza, Castelli 75 @ (02245) 442362

Don Torcuato Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires west • Hotel Classic, Dante Aleghieri @ (011) 47481921 General Alvear Nearest town described: Azul 112 km south on RP 51 (page 110) • Hotel Mengarelli, Wallace near Pellegrini @ (02344) 481464 • Hotel Estancia Chica, RN 61 F @ (02344) 481066 General Arenales Nearest town described: Junín 65 km south-east (page 134) • Hotel Acuña, Ave. B. Mitre 180 @ (02353) 460271 General Belgrano Nearest town described: San Miguel del Monte 51 km north on RP 41 (page 204) • Hotel Aribet, Ave. Sarmiento 1434 @ (02243) 452084 • Hotel Brisas del Chadi, Calle 109 near 60 @ (02243) 453474 • Residencial La Fontana, J.E. De la Fuente 675 @ (02243) 453196 General La Madrid Nearest town described: Olavarría 95 km north (page 184) • Hotel Avenida, Mitre near Lavalle @ (02286) 420055 • Residencial Rivadavia B. Rivadavia 753 @ (02286) 420273 • Residencial Dorrego, Dorrego 725 @ (02286) 420869 General Madariaga Nearest town described: Pinamar 24 km east on RP 74 (page 188) • Hostería R & C, Urrutia 149 @ (02267) 424422 • Hotel Gran Hotel San Carlos, Dr. C. Madariaga 210 @ (02267) 425449 • Hotel London, Moreno 975 @ (02267) 421101 • Hotel Maite, Moreno 624 @ (02267) 425431 General Pinto Nearest town described: Junín 92 km east on RN 188 (page 134) • Hotel Ancaloo, Ave. Mitre 263 @ (0223) 4959740

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PAMPA PROVINCES •

General Sarmiento Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; part of greater Buenos Aires • Hotel Muñiz, M. Irigoyen 599 @ (011) 44514820 • Hotel La Quinta de San Miguel, Ave. B. Mitre 319 @ (011) 44550720

•

• Lobería Nearest town described: Necochea 49 km south on RP 227 (page 176) • Hotel Español, Ave. Mitre 65 F @ (02261) 442074

General Villegas Nearest town described: Junín 200 km east on RN 188 (page 134) • Hotel Alvear, Moreno 1295 @ (02388) 422102 • Hotel Antonini, RN 188 KM 361 @ (2388) 422050 • Hotel Rucalen, Arenales 321 @ (02388) 421022 • Residencial Frey, Ruta 188 KM 361 @ (02388) 421890 • Residencial Plaza, Rivadavia 737 @ (02388) 421639 Henderson Nearest town described: Guaminí 114 km south-west on RP 65 and RP 86 (page 133) • Hostal La Plaza de Mateo María, M. Moreno 373 @ (02314) 452079 La Lucila Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; part of greater Buenos Aires • Hotel American, Ave. Libertador 3136 @ (011) 47906895 Laprida Nearest town described: Olavarría 120 km north on RP 76 and RP 86 (page 184) • Hotel Avenida, Ave. P. Pereyra 1001 @ (02285) 420551

Maipú Nearest town described: Mar del Plata 128 km south on RP 2 (page 150) • Hotel Munich, Madero 661 @ (02268)421534 Mar Chiquita Nearest town described: Mar del Plata 30 km south on RP 11 (page 150) • Hotel Mar Chiquita, Echeverría @ (0223) 4691046 Martín Coronado Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires • Hotel Nuevo Rubi, Holanda 3565 @ (011) 48423267 Médanos Nearest town described: Bahía Blanca 48 km north on RP 3 (page 111) • Hotel comercio, Ave. Mitre 2 F @ (02927) 432207 Mercedes Nearest town described: Luján 30 km north-east on RN 5 (page 143) • Hostería Tomás Jofre, Calle 7 near 8 @ (02324) 433328 • Hotel Costa, Calle 32–627 @ (02324) 422699 Merlo Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 39 km north • Hotel Castrelo, C. Calvo 37 @ (0220) 4821982 • Hotel Merlo, V. Loza 709 @ (0220) 482033 Monte Grande Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires south-west • Aeropuerto Hotel, D.G. Ocantos 26 @ (011) 42902081

Las Flores Nearest town described: San Miguel del Monte 76 km north on RP 3 (page 204) • Hotel América, Ave. San Martín near Pellegrini @ (02244) 452552 • Hotel Gran Hotel Avenida, Ave. San Martín 464 @ (02244) 452463 • Residencial Balo, RN 3 KM 187 @ (02244) 454027 • Pensión Teresita, Ave. Sarmiento 574 @ (02244) 453039 Lincoln Nearest town described: Junín 56 km north east on RN 188 (page 134) • Hotel Castilla, Yrigoyen near Fortín La Guardia @ (02355) 422111

Stopovers

Hotel Dorado, Rivadavia 1342 @ (02355) 422500 Hotel Impala, Sarmiento 900 @ (02355) 422212 Hotel Plaza, Mitre 36 @ (02355) 422588

Morón Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires 238

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Hotel Alem, Alem 1199 @ (011) 46272181 • Hotel Cabildo, Cabildo 368 @ (011) 46297516 • Hotel First, Gral. Munilla 1072 @ (011) 44834588 • Hotel Morón, Mendoza 409 @ (011) 46274430 Munro Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires • Hotel Munro, Ave. V. Sarsfield 5940 @ (011) 47621317 Nueve de Julio Nearest town described: Junín 108 km north on RP 65 (page 134) • Hotel Avenida Palace, Ave. Mitre 702 @ (02317) 422014 • Hotel El Tren, Ave. Vedia 138 @ (02317) 422082 • Hotel Terminal, Ave. Avellaneda near Robbio @ (02317)422306 Olivos Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires north-west • Hotel Costa Azul, B. Cruz 1299 @ (011) 47974774 • Hotel Norte, B. De Irigoyen 4249 @ (011) 47173471 • Hotel San Lorenzo, San Lorenzo 1525 @ (011) 47998608 • Hotel Riox, Sturiza 464 @ (011) 47941654 Pedro Luro Nearest town described: Bahía Blanca 87 km north on RN 3 (page 111) • Hotel Argentino, Calle 5–1109 @ (02928) 420111

Polvorines Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires • Hotel El Chilecito, Arquímedes 2 RN 202 @ (011) 44636590 Puán Nearest town described: Guaminí 101 km north RP 67 and RN 33 (page 133) • Hotel Puán, San Martín 105 @ (02923) 498105 • Residencial Savizky, San Martín 52 @ (02923) 498174 Quilmes Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires south-east • Apart Hotel Ciudad de Quilmes, N. Videla 160 @ (011) 42533098 • Hotel Poland, Alvear 624 @ (011) 42530543 Ramallo Nearest town described: San Nicolás de los Arroyos 22 km north (page 206) • Hotel Siria, J.M. Gomendio 1149 @ (02407) 471491 Rauch Nearest town described: Tandil 70 km south on RP 30 (page 218) *** Hotel Gran Hotel Rauch, Ave. San Martín 539 @ (02297) 442318 • Hotel Bernatene, B.F. Aveleyra 1 @ (02297) 442106 • Hotel San Marcos, Ave. San Martín 1002 @ (02297) 442130 Rivera Nearest town described: Carhué 67 km easr on RP 60 (page 123) • Hotel Schmidt, Rivadavia 142 @ (02935) 432043 Rojas • Nearest town described: Junín 54 km south on RN 188 (page 134) • Hostal Rojas, J.A. Roca 335 @ (02475) 464165 • Hotel Victoria, J.A. Roca near Presidente Perón @ (02475) 462146

Pellegrini Nearest town described: Guaminí 113 km south on RN 5 and RP 85 (page 133) • Hotel La Cabaña, RP 5 KM 496 @ (02392) 498623 Pigüé Nearest town described: Guaminí 65 km north on RN 33 (page 133) • Hotel Central, Belgrano near San Martín @ (02923) 473140 • Hotel Gran Hotel Pigüé, España 229 @ (02923) 472460 • Motel Casablanca, RN 33 KM 133 @ (02923) 472632

Roque Pérez Nearest town described: Lobos 36 km north-east on RN 205 (page 140) • Hotel España, Berro 588 @ (02227) 491160 • Hotel Grand Mayoral, Acc. P. Gutiérrez 2451 @ (02227) 491392

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Stopovers

PAMPA PROVINCES San Miguel Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires west • Hotel Class Hotel, Pavón 2574 @ (011) 44512002 • Hotel San Miguel, Cjal Tribulato 929 @ (011) 44512519 Suipacha Nearest town described: Luján 60 km north-east on RN 5 (page 143) • Hotel Alto Suipacha, Padre Luis Brady near Belgrano @ (02324) 481071 Tapalqué Nearest town described: Azul 57 km south on RP 51 (page 110) • Hotel Avenida, Ave. 9 de Julio near Villanueva @ (02283) 421092

Saavedra Nearest town described: Bahía Blanca 108 km south on RN 33 (page 111) • Hotel Sierras, Ave. Cornelio Saavedra near Belgrano @ (02923) 497144 Saladillo Nearest town described: Lobos 90 km north-east on RN 205 (page 140) • Hotel Bellesi, Dr. Taborda 3599 @ (02344) 454408 • Hotel Español, Ave. Belgrano 3365 @ (02344) 453214 • Hotel Saladillo, Mitre 3116 @ (02344)450111 • Hotel Teggiano, Rivadavia near Roca @ (02344)454271 Salliqueló Nearest town described: Guaminí 70 km south-east on RP 85 (page 133) • Residencial Salliqueló, 25 de Mayo 616 @ (02296)452500 Salto Nearest town described: San Pedro 100 km north (page 208) • Hotel Bungalow, Ave. Costanera @ (02474) 422014 • Hotel El Ciervo, San Martín 55 @ (02474) 424582 • Hotel Martita, Bóscolo @ (02474) 423196 • Hotel Salto, RN 31 near Rotonda @ (02474) 423100 San Cayetano Nearest town described: Necochea 88 km west on RP 75 and RN 228 (page 176) • Residencial el Hostal de Tazzo, Rivadavia 186 @ (02983) 470096) San Fernando Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires north • Hotel Cruz Alta, R.P. de las Palmas @ (011) 47280557

Temperly Nearest town described: Buenos Airea; greater Buenos Aires south • Hotel Welcome, Avellaneda 14 @ (011) 42432059 Tornquist Nearest town described: Sierra de la Ventana 37 km east on RP 76 (page 214) • Hotel Central, 9 de Julio 242 @ (0291) 4940035 • Hotel El Mirador, RN 76 KM 226 @ (0291) 4941338 fax • Hotel San José, Güemes 132 @ (0291) 4940152 Trenque Lauquen Nearest town described: Guaminí 123 km south on RN 33 (page 133) • Hotel El Faro, Ave. García Salinas 1075 @ (02392) 431000 • Hotel El Fortín, Presidente Yrigoyen 50 @ (02392)422772 • Hotel Paillahue, 9 de Julio 154 @ (02392) 422010 • Hotel Simón, Villegas 587 @ (02392) 422543 • Hotel Trenque Lauquen, San Martín near Mitre @ (02392) 422203 Vedia Nearest town described: Junín 52 km east on RN 7 (page 134) • Hotel Alas, 25 de Mayo 45 @ (02354) 422089 • Hotel Avenida, Ave. Dunckler 161 @ (02354) 420107 • Hotel Vedia, Rivadavia 54 @ (02354) 420022

San Isidro Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires north • Residencial San Isidro, 3 de Febrero 66 @ (011) 47477138 San Martín Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires west • Hotel Ave. 25 de Mayo 1806 @ (011) 47550685 Stopovers

240

BUENOS AIRES •

Hotel Aguirre, A. Alcorta 5066 @ (011) 47384450 Villa Cacique Nearest town described: Tandil 62 km north-east on RN 74 and RP 80 ( page 218) • Hotel Loma Negra, RN 80 Casa 10 @ (02292) 498395 Villa General Arias Nearest town described: Bahía Blanca 23 km east on RN 3 an RN 228 (page 111) • Motel La Posada, RN 229 @ (02932) 493020

Veinticinco de Mayo Nearest town described: Junín 133 km nort- east on RP 46 (page 134) • Hotel Gran Hotel 25 de Mayo, Calle 27 near 5 @ (02345) 462028 • Hotel Jorly, Calle 10–642 F @ (02345) 462643 Vicente López Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires • Hotel Vicente López, Rodríguez Peña 1561 @ (011) 47973773 fax ADEFSY Villa Adelina Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; greater Buenos Aires • Hotel Alpino, Ave. B. Ader 3770 @ (011) 47669274 • Hotel La Bámbola, Cerrito 3892 @ (011) 47658276 Villa Ballester Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; part of greater Buenos Aires

Golf courses

Villa Iris Nearest town described: Bahía Blanca 113 km south-east on RN 35 (page 111) • Hotel Carretto, Ave. San Martín 42 @ (02925) 432257 Villa Luzuriaga Nearest town described: Buenos Aires; part of greater Buenos Aires • Hotel Oeste SRL, Venezuela 4041 @ (011) 46695412

GOLF COURSES

T

he towns listed here are in the greater Buenos Aires area. Some of these locations are virtually suburbs of the city of Buenos Aires although situated in Buenos Aires Province; they are recognizable by the telephone code (011).

South of Buenos Aires on RN 205

Tristán Suárez Nearest town described: Buenos Aires, 40 km north on RN 205; postal code: 1806 • Scholem Aleijem Bialik RN 205 KM 40 @ (011) 42958261 • Club Privado El Ombú, Blas Parera @ (011) 43711492/42958847 Vicente Casares Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 51 km north on RN 205; postal code: 1808 • La Martona Country Club RN 205 KM 54 @ (011) 43739934/43723855

Canning Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 31 km north; postal code: 1804 • El Sosiego Country Club, Sargento Cabral 4581 @ (011) 45834757/ 42950450 • Country Club El Venado, Sargento Cabral near Escr. Vázquez @ (011) 49617875/42951702 • Consorcio Country Mi Refugio, Sargento Cabral near Lacarra @ (011) 42751778/47722366 Parada Unión Ferroviaria Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 39 km north; postal code: 1804 • Club Atlético Lomas @ (011) 42758043/42440155

Guernica Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 40 km north on RP29 via Lomas de Zamora; postal code: 1862 • El Paraíso Country Club, Avenida 33 near Calle 21 @ (02224) 481361

241

Golf courses

PAMPA PROVINCES Vicente López Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 11 km south-east; postal code: 1638 • Club Atlético Banco Provincia de Buenos Aires, H. Yrigoyen 789

South of Buenos Aires Ezeiza Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 30 km north on autopista; postal code: 1824 • Círculo de la Fuerza Aérea, Campo Cabeza de Caballo

West of Buenos Aires on the road to Pilar

South-west of Buenos Aires

Boulogne sur Mer Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 22 km east; postal code: 1409 • Boulogne Golf Club, Ruta Panamericana near Camino Real Morón @ (011) 47457525/7508

Marcos Paz Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 75 km north-west ; postal code: 1727 • Club de Campo El Moro, RP 200 KM 52.5 @ (0220) 43431849/1993

Don Torcuato Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 29 km east; postal code: 1611 • Hindú Club, RP 202 near Arricau @ (011) 47400054/0154 Garín Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 42 km east; postal code: 1619 • Aranzazu Club de Campo, between Pilar and Garín @ (02488) 43735385 • Miraflores Country Club, RN Panamericana KM 35.5 Tortuguitas Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 48 km east; postal code: 1667 • Tortugas Country Club, RN 08 Panamericana KM 37 access to Pilar @ (02320) 471262/63 Villa de Mayo Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 35 km east; postal code: 1614 • Club Universitario Buenos Aires, Avenida Maipú near Wilson @ (02322) 490269

South-west of Buenos Aires on the road to Luján Moreno Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 39 km north-east; postal code: 1744 • Ocaragua Golf Club, Avenida Gacona near Galileo Galilei @ (02228) (0237) 424444/425333 • San Diego Country Club, RP 25 KM 7 @ (02323) 4225667/43937526 San Antonio de Padua Nearest town described: Buenos Aires, 32 km north-east; postal code: 1718 • Ituzaingó Golf Club, Vicente Gered 161 @ (0220) 422331

North-west of Buenos Aires on RP 27 Los Polvorines Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 32 km east on RN 8; postal code: 1613 • Olivos Golf Club, Ruta Panamericana KM 32.4 @ (011) 46601076 San Isidro Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 18 km south-east; postal code 1642 • Club Náutico San Isidro, Avenida Mitre 1999 fax (011) 47421313 @ (011) 47433090/1/43111171 • Jockey Club San Isidro, Avenida Márquez 1700 @ 47431001/4 • San Isidro Golf Club Avenida Juan Segundo Fernández 386 @ (011) 47666625/0750 • Pacheco Golf Club, Tomkinson 108 @ (011) 47409820/8479

Golf courses

South-east of Buenos Aires Berazategui Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 24 km north-east; postal code: 1884 • Asociación Deportiva Berazategui, Avenida Los Paraísos 1750 Ranelagh Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 29 km north-west on RP 14; postal code: 1806 • Ranelagh Golf Club, Avenida Este near Calle 359 @ 42588514

242

BUENOS AIRES Ituzaingó Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 27 km east; postal code: 1714 • Los Pingüinos Club de Polo, Avenida Pte. Perón 10298 @ (011) 46214716/43310354 Libertad Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 30 km east; postal code: 1716 • Libertad Golf Club, Moretti San Martín Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 16 km east; postal code: 1650 • Club D.F.G. Mitre (Miguelete), Rod. Peña near Tracks of F.C.B. Mitre railway @ (011) 47553627 San Miguel Just outside Buenos Aires; postal code: 1663 • Los Cedros Country Club, El Centinela near RP 202 @ 402150 KM 45.5

West of Buenos Aires Sáenz Peña Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 15 km east • Golf Club San Martín, Lope de Vega near Alv. Thomas @ (011) 47571600/0515 Bella Vista Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 32 km east; postal code: 1661 • San Miguel de Ghiso Country Club, Flaubert between Santa Fe and Obligado @ 46667014/7027 Hurlingham Nearest town described: Buenos Aires 28 km east; postal code: 1686 • Hurlingham Club, Julio A. Roca 1411 @ (011) 46650401 • San Jorge Golf Club, Combate de Pavón near Granaderos @ (011) 46656787

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Golf courses

CÓRDOBA CAMPA P Córdoba ÓRDOBA PROVINCES

Plate 4 248 249 251 253 253 254 255 257 258 263 264 275 277 278 280 281 281 282 283 285 286 287 292 292 293 294 295 297 300 301

Map of Córdoba Province Almafuerte CSa Alta Gracia ABCDEIMSUaps Map Ascochinga Cas Bell Ville CS Bialet Massé CS Capilla del Monte BCDEnJKLSUYaps Córdoba ABCEnJKLMNPRSTUYaps Map of greater Córdoba Map of metropolitan district Map of city center Cosquín ABCDEJKLMSTUps Cruz del Eje ABCEMSUas Déan Funes BCEJKSUTs Embalse CSs Huinca Renancó CS Jesús María ABCDEJKSUs La Carlota CS La Cumbre BCEnJKLMSUas Map La Cumbrecita BCESas La Falda ABCDEnJKLMSUps Laboulaye CSs Lago La Viña CSp Los Cocos CS Marcos Juárez CS Mina Clavero BCDEnJKLMSUas Map Miramar CSUs Reserva Cultural Natural Cerro Colorado CES

244

Córdoba

PAMPA PROVINCES 301 303 306 306 307 307 308 309 310 311 312 313 314 315 315 316 323 325 326 326 327 327 328 329 331 333 334 335 336 337 337 338 338

Río Ceballos BCDESs Río Cuarto BCEnJKLMRSUas Río Tercero CSUs Salsipuedes CDS San Clemente Cs San Francisco CMSUap San José de la Dormida Cs San Marcos Sierra ACS Santa Rosa de Calamuchita Map ABCDEnJKLMSs Taninga Cs Tanti BCEISs Unquillo CSs Vicuña Mackenna C Villa Carlos Paz ABCDEnJKLMNSUYas Map of metropolitan district Map of city center Villa Ciudad de América CS Villa de María del Río Seco CSs Villa de Soto CS Villa del Dique CDS Villa del Totoral CSs Villa Dolores BCDEJKMRSUps Map Villa General Belgrano ABCDEnJKSUas Map Villa Icho Cruz C Villa María ABCJKSUas Villa Rumipal ABCDEnJKRSa Villa Tulumba CS Yacanto de Calamuchita CS Yacanto de San Javier CSa Stopovers CES

órdoba Province is the geographical center of Argentina. It has an excellent road system and a range of good and popular tourist centers. Some of the biggest tourist resorts are centered around the many dams in the Sierras de Córdoba. Water sports and fishing in the rivers and artificial lakes are popular in this province.

C

The eastern and southern part of Córdoba is flat pampa. It is one of the richest agricultural areas of Argentina, partly because of the plentiful water supply. Córdoba is also the center of heavy industry in

Córdoba

Argentina because of the ready availability of electricity from hydroelectric stations such as San Roque, Cruz del Eje, Embalse, Los Alazanes and San Jerónimo. Many of the rivers flowing out of the sierras

245

CÓRDOBA Places of interest

are dammed several times along their course to provide for irrigation and electricity generation. Exploitation of mineral deposits is limited to the extraction of minerals such as marble and manganese. The western mountainous part of Córdoba, the Sierras de Córdoba, contains the major tourist attractions. This is hiking country, particularly around Cerro Champaqui, at 2790 m the highest peak in the province, which is easily accessible from Villa Dolores. Ascents from the Traslasierra side start from San Javier and take six hours; walks to the peak from the Calamuchita Valley start from Villa Berna and take nine hours. The Sierras de Córdoba run for about 500 km north–south and are approximately 170 km wide. The three main ranges comprising the Sierras de Córdoba are the Sierra Grande in the center and the Sierras Chicas with the Punilla valley between them, and the Sierra de Pocho in the west. The higher peaks are snow-covered for part of the year. Some of the larger tourist towns are in the Punilla, such as Villa Carlos Paz on Lago San Roque, La Falda, Cosquín, and La Cumbre. The climate in the sierras is sunny and dry throughout the year, and popular vacation pastimes include riding, walking, tennis, and golf, as well as swimming, fishing, and sailing in the numerous dams. Information can be obtained at the Dirección Provincial de Turismo in Córdoba. Córdoba, the capital of the province, is 771 km north-west of the federal capital Buenos Aires. The A.C.A. has excellent maps of the province and of the Sierras de Córdoba.

The areas of tourist interest are the capital Córdoba itself with its vast architectonic treasures of the Spanish colonial period, followed by the Punilla, a mountainous area to the west of the capital; the historic northern and Sierras Chicas areas; the Traslasierra region which as the name implies is located on the other side of the mountains west of Córdoba city; the area of the great lakes created by damming the rivers coming out of the Sierra de Comechingones; the Mar Chiquita region centerd around the huge inland lake of Mar Chiquita and including the mouths of the rivers flowing into it; the fort and Laguna region in the flat humid pampa in the south-west where the indigenous people resisted the Spanish for some time.

The Jesuits The Jesuits, who were very active in this province, have left their mark in the form of astonishing monuments which bear witness to their cultural and civilizing influence well beyond their normal duty to convert the local tribes to Christianity. Their main centers of activity were the capital Córdoba itself where they founded the university, Alta Gracia to the south and the area around La Calera to the north of the capital.

Parks and reserves Córdoba Province has created twenty-two natural parks or reserves: • Reserva Natural de Fauna La Felipa, an ornithological reserve in the wet pampa near Ucacha; see La Carlota on page 282 • Parque Natural y Reserva Natural Forestal Chancani. Scenic re246

Córdoba

PAMPA PROVINCES

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•

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12 000 ha (29 652 acres) and includes Cerro Champaqui • Parque Nacional Quebrada del Condorito and Reserva Natural Provincial Pampa de Achala. This is a scenic area where condors still fly circles in the skies. Best reached from Villa Carlos Paz and from Mina Clavero. These proposed national and provincial parks measure 40 000 ha (98 841 acres) and 120 000 ha (296 523 acres) • Reserva Natural Recreativa Uritorco. A scenic area in the Sierras Chicas around Cerro Uritorco. Best access from Capilla del Monte; see page 255 • Reserva Recreativa Natural El Diquecito. Encompasses the Río Suquía gorge between Dique San Roque and Diquecito just outside the western periphery of Greater Córdoba; see Excusions from Córdoba on page 275 • Reserva Natural Los Gigantes. The imposing granite rock formations and sheer cliffs with the highest peak reaching 2374 m is already a favorite area for mountaineers and nature walkers. Best accessed from Tanti. See Excursions from Tanti on page 314 • Reserva Natural Vaquerías A scenic reserve on the east side of the the Sierras Chicas. Best reached from Valle Hermoso on a trail; see Excursions from La Falda on page 291 There are other smaller natural reserves in Córdoba Province.

serve protecting a large site of quebracho trees normally only found in the Chaco; reached from Salsacate or Taninga; see Excursions for Taninga on page 313 Reserva Hídrica Natural La Quebrada. This is a water protection area for the headwaters of the Río Ceballos. Best reached from the town of Río Ceballos; see Excursions from Río Ceballos on page 302 Reserva Cultural Natural Cerro Colorado. Archeological site located 160 km north of Córdoba; see page 301 Reserva Natural Bañados del Río Dulce y Laguna Mar Chiquita; a 600 000 ha (1 482 616 acres) wetlands reserve with a large and varied bird life in the eastern part of Córdoba. Best reached from Miramar; see page 300 Monumento Natural Volcanes de Pocho. Three extinct volcanoes form the core area. Best reached from Taninga; see Excursions from Taninga on page 313 Reserva Natural de Fauna Lagunas del Sur y Bañados del Saladillo; a bird sanctuary with large numbers of migratory birds, located in the wet pampa best reached from La Carlota or Laboulaye on RP 4; see Excursions from Laboulaye on page 292 Monumento Natural Champaqui encompasses a large area around Cerro Champaqui. Best reached from Villa Berna in the Calmuchita region and from Los Hornillos in the Traslasierra region. This proposed natural park covers

Córdoba

Highways Córdoba Province is almost in the exact geographical center of Argentina. Most major highways pass through this province. Following are the main highways from the City 247

CÓRDOBA of Córdoba to other population centers.

after passing through Venado Tuerto and Pergamino, you are already in Buenos Aires Province and finally the capital Buenos Aires.

Córdoba to Rosario RN 9 is the direct link between Córdoba and Rosario in Province Santa Fe. The trip goes all the way through flat country, one of the richest agricultural regions in Argentina. This is the humid pampa. ABLO, Antártida Argentina, CACORBA, Coata, La Carlota, T.A. Chevallier run 15 services daily between Córdoba, Rosario and Buenos Aires. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267.

Córdoba to Santiago del Estero RN 9 north is the direct link between Córdoba and Santiago del Estero. It should be noted that as you travel north the climate becomes drier: the beginning of the Chaco region is indicated by increasing numbers of quebracho trees. Traveling north from Córdoba you pass through Jesús María, Villa del Totoral, San José de La Dormida, and Villa de María del Río Seco. The first major town in Santiago del Estero Province is Villa Ojo de Agua. Andesmar, Balut, Cacorba, and La Veloz del Norte run at least eight services daily to Santiago del Estero and beyond to Tucumán and Salta.

Córdoba to Buenos Aires This circuit leads initially on RN 36 directly south through some of the tourist areas in the foothills of the eastern Sierra de Comechingones between Córdoba and Río Cuarto. At Río Cuarto you turn east into RN 8 (also known as the Panamericana) which leads via Venado Tuerto in Santa Fe Province to Buenos Aires. You pass through Alta Gracia, Villa General Belgrano, Santa Rosa de Calmuchita, the tourist areas along the northern side of Embalse del Río Tercero, Almafuerte, Berrotarán, Río Cuarto, La Carlota, Canals and Arías crossing into Santa Fe Province. Then

Córdoba to Santa Fe RN 19 is a major highway linking Córdoba with Santa Fe and Paraná. It passes through Río Primero, Arroyito, La Francia, San Francisco, and Santa Fe. Buses Miramar and Coord. San Francisco have services within the province of Córdoba; Ciudad de Paraná, Expreso Singer and TATA run eight services daily to Santa Fe.

ALMAFUERTE

Almafuerte Postal code: 5854 @ area code: (03571) Altitude: 432 m Distance from Córdoba: 98 km south on RP 6

A

lmafuerte is located on the artificial lake Piedras Moras,18 km from Río Tercero. The dam is 57 m high and 530 m long, and has a surface area of 830 ha (2051 acres). The water is used to irrigate an area of 60 000 ha 248

Almafuerte

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Almafuerte * *

• A A A A

Hotel Pettit, Castelli near Salta AELPV @ Hotel Arrayanes, Pedro Molina 789 AELPV @ Hotel Almafuerte, P.C. Molina 602 @ Residencial Avenida, Tucumán near 25 de Mayo LP Residencial Lombard, Pedro C Molina 481 HLPV Residencial Almafuerte, 25 de Mayo near Pedro C Molina EFHL Residencial San Carlos, Salvador Escabuzo 83 FLP

491343 471194 471129

$H $G

2 2

$I

2

$I

2

(148 262 acres). Forty-six million kilowatt/hours of electricity are generated each year.

B Tourist information •

eral Belgrano,Alta Gracia, and Córdoba; 1–2 daily ° Neuquén via Río Cuarto and Santa Rosa; 1 daily For service details see Bus services from Córdoba on page 267 and Río Cuarto on page 305.

Subdirección de Turismo de Municipalidad, Tucumán 777 @ 471110/290 fax

S Buses •

•

Los Obreros, La Vitoria 6–8 daily services between Córdoba and Río Cuarto TUS, Ave. San Martín @ 472191 ° Round trip via Embalse, Santa Rosa de Calamuchita, Villa Gen-

a Sport

•

Fishing and sailing

ALTA GRACIA

Alta Gracia Population: 38 000 Postal code: 5186 @ area code: (03547) Altitude: 600 m Distance from Córdoba: 38 km south-west on RP 5

A

lta Gracia is situated in a wide valley east of the Sierras Chicas where the valleys of the Punilla and the Río Calamuchita join. The town consists of two parts: the area west of El Tajamar, containing the bus terminal, golf course, and a few hotels; and the center, where there are a Jesuit church, a casino, and hotels. At the time of the Spanish invasion Alta Gracia was inhabited by the Comechingones who called the region “Paravachasca”. Owing to their small physique the Comechingones were no match for the invading Spaniards and soon succumbed.

Alta Gracia

The town was founded in 1588 and was taken over by the Jesuits in 1643. The Jesuits left behind not only some remarkable buildings with walls over one metre thick but also a still-functioning aqueduct system which feeds the artificial lake in the town center.

249

CÓRDOBA Key to map A C D E I T

Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Merced Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Agencia Municipal de Turismo Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 2

Hotel Ritz

3 5 8 9 11

• •

4

0 Services

1 Defunct railroad station 12 Alta Gracia Golf Club

Restaurant El Tajamar

9 Sights 6

El Tajamar, La Huerta, and mill

Cabañas in La Serranita • El Diquecito, RP 5 KM 7 @ 494056; also camping; open in season only

Fiesta Nuestra Señora de la Merced (Festival of Our Lady of Mercy, the city’s patron saint): 24 September Festival Manuel de Falla: November Festival de las Colectividades: February

E Eating out

• •

B Tourist information •

Museo Histórico Nacional Casa del Virrey Liniers 10 Casa del Che Guevara 13 Museo Provincial Manuel de Falla

4 Eating out

A Festivals •

7

Residencial Reyna Apart Hotel La Favorita Hotel Savoy Residencial Asturias Hotel Liguria

Agencia Municipal de Turismo, El Molino near Avenida El Tajamar @ 423455 fax 421851

Restaurant Círculo Italiano, España 450 Restaurant El Tajamar, Belgrano 163. Parrilla

I Post and telegraph

• •

D Camping •

Municipal, Barrio C Pellegrini, on the road to Rinconada Camping in La Serranita • El Caracol, RP 5 KM 12

Post office: Correo Argentino, Urquiza 2 (corner of Belgrano) Telephone: Telecom, Avenida Belgrano 175

M Services and facilities

•

Laundromat: Laverap, España 422. Closed Sundays

C Accommodation in Alta Gracia Apart Hotels ** **

La Favorita, Avenida Belgrano 43 La Posada, Tajamar 95

ABCEFGJLPRSUV AEFGJLPUV golf

@ @

424956 fax 422809

$D $D

2 2

Liguria, Pellegrini 797 Ritz, Avenida Belgrano 302 Savoy, Sarmiento 410

AELPV AELPV AELPV

@ @ @

421766 422565 421125

$H $H $G

2 2 2

AFPV LP LP LP ELP

@ @ @

426555 423668 421724

@

421725

$H $H $H $H

2 2 2 2

@

423443

$G

2

$H

2

Hotels * * *

Residenciales • A A B B

Hispania, Ave. V. Sarsfield 57 Asturias, Vélez Sarsfield 127 Reyna, Urquiza 129 Franchini, Franchini 138 Irma, Cochabamba 46

Accommodation on RN 36 outside Alta Gracia *

Hotel Hostal del Sol, near Malvinas Argentinas AELPSV

Accommodation in La Serranita

A Hospedaje La Serranita, Río Tercero LP Hostería La Porteña, 16 km south of town AELPV

*

250

Alta Gracia

PAMPA PROVINCES To Córdoba

To Río Cuarto NUÑEZ

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N

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Alta Gracia

251

CÓRDOBA S Buses

The bus terminal is on the corner of Sarmiento and Vélez Sarsfield. Some buses do not enter the town, but stop at El Crucero; passengers then take a local bus the extra 3 km into town. • TUS SRL @ 425045; for services see Buses from Córdoba on page 267 • Sierras de Calamuchita, Valle de Calamuchita and Yacanto provide local services to and from Córdoba and around the district; T.A. Chevallier runs long-distance services; for details see Buses from Córdoba on page 267

•

•

U Motoring Service stations • A.C.A., corner of Lucas V Córdoba and Lucio V Rossi • Y.P.F., El Crucero, corner of RP 5 and San Martín. Mechanic available

•

a Sport •

• •

Golf: Alta Gracia Golf Club, Avenida Carlos Pellegrini 1000 @ (03547) 422922; nine-hole golf course Aviation: Aero Club, RP C45 (road to Río Segundo past El Crucero) Walks: Alta Gracia is a good base for walks into the mountains

•

s Excursions

Alta Gracia is a convenient starting point for many trips into the Paravachasca area. Many destinations can be reached by frequent public buses. • Embalse Los Molinos: 35 km. Take RP 5 south, passing through Villa Los Aromos, Villa Anizacate, Villa La Serranía and Villa Ciudad de América. Five km west of Villa Ciudad de América at Potrero de Garay are archeological remains of the pre-Colombian population. On the lake itself you can enjoy aquatic sports. The lake area is served by public transport • La Paisanita and La Serranita are quiet little country villages with accommodation, 10–15 km south of Alta Gracia • Bosque Alegre and observatory: Located in the Sierras Chicas 24 km north of Alta Gracia. There are good views over Alta Gracia, the Sierra Grande and extending as far east as

p Sightseeing •

•

•

Jesuits in 1659. The ruins of the flour mill can still be seen. Nowadays El Tajamar is part of a public park Los Paredones (“The Walls”) were built by the Jesuits as part of the original channel project to conduct water to El Tajamar. One portion can still be seen 4 km from the city center Museo Histórico Nacional Casa del Virrey Liniers (National Historical Museum Home of Viceroy Liniers) was the entrance to the convent, built between 1659 and 1735, and was converted into a museum in 1968. It is in colonial baroque style and has many rooms containing contemporary furniture. It was the home for a short while of viceroy Santiago de Liniers. Open Tues–Sun 09:00–12:00 and 15:00–18:00 Museo Provincial Manuel de Falla (Manuel de Falla Provincial Museum), on Pellegrini (opposite the golf course), home of the famous composer. Open Tues–Fri 09:00–19:00 Casa del Che Guevara (House of Che Guevara), Avellaneda. Home of the former revolutionary who died in Bolivia, fomenting a rebellion

Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Merced parish church is a mixture of Renaissance, baroque, and rococo styles. It took over a hundred years to build and was finally completed in 1762. Its roofs were impregnated with a substance which made them waterproof; the composition of that substance is unknown to this day El Obraje, Nieto 11, built in 1643 was a sort of school where Indians were taught weaving, agriculture, and the rudiments of Christianity under the Jesuits. It still serves as a technical college El Tajamar, La Huerta, and mill. The waters of the Arroyo de los Paredones were brought via underground conduits to the Tajamar weir and distributed to the fields near what is now called Lepri. This extensive project was completed by the

252

Alta Gracia

PAMPA PROVINCES

•

This area has a wild scenic beauty. Proposals have been made to create a national park to preserve the flora and fauna of the area, including the few condors still living here. A mountain walk is possible starting on RN 20 8 km west of El Cóndor, following the headwaters of the Río Condorito and finishing at San Clemente. See San Clemente on page 307

the city of Córdoba. There is a satellite communications center at Bosque Alegre and a small archeological site nearby. Open Thurs. 16:00–18:00 and Sun. 10:00–12:00 and 16:00–18:00 San Clemente: Located 50 km west of Alta Gracia at the gateway to the Quebrada del Condorito which opens into the Cumbres de Achala towards Cerro Lindero, at 2200 m the highest peak of this mountain range.

ASCOCHINGA

Ascochinga Postal code: 5117 @ area code: (03525) Altitude: 734 m Distance from Córdoba: 68 km north on RN 9 (via Jesús María)

T

he little township of Ascochinga is located in the eastern foothills of the Sierras de Córdoba some 68 km north of Córdoba at an altitude of 734 m. From here a very scenic road leads up to La Cumbre. Ascochinga was founded in the middle of the seventeenth century, possibly as an offshoot of the Jesuit mission establishment in Jesús María, Santa Catalina convent, established in 1622. Regular daily buses from Córdoba take two hours. There is an A.C.A. service station on RN 156.

C Accommodation •

in the province of Córdoba. The church was begun in 1754 and the Jesuits were expelled in 1763. It was the home of the Jesuit historians Padre Lozano and Guevara. See Jesús María on page 281

Hotel Golf Ascochinga, @ 492017

a Sport •

Golf: Ascochinga Golf Club, Círculo Fuerza Aérea Córdoba @ 43938061 extension (”int”) 259; nine holes

s Excursions •

Santa Catalina at Jesús María: 13 km north. The remains of the most important and largest Jesuit mission ranch

BELL VILLE

Bell Ville Postal code: 2550 @ area code: (03534) Altitude: 140 m Distance from Córdoba: 68 km south on RN 9 (via Jesús María)

Ascochinga

253

CÓRDOBA

T

his is an agricultural center of some importance with 30 000 inhabitants. It is located 201 km south-east of Córdoba in the wet pampa. For those interested in a game of golf there is the Bell Ville Golf Club, Martín García 800 @ (03534) 426302/425422, with nine holes.

C Accommodation

It has also two museums both in Generl Paz 48: Museo Histórico Regional Sargento Mayor Lorenzo de Lara (Sargento Mayor de Lara Regional Historical Museum) and Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes “Walter Navagio” (Walter Navagio Municipal Fine Arts Museum). The historical museum has four rooms displaying antique furniture, musical instruments and agricultural instruments used in the nineteenth century; also photographs and historical documents. The fine arts museum has a collection of paintings. Both are open Tues and Sun 09:00–13:00 and 15:00–18:00. There is accommodation and gas stations.

Bialet Massé Altitude: 653 m Postal code: 5158 @ area code: (03541)

Hotels *** Gran Hotel Bell Ville, José Pío Angulo 531 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ (03534) 424076 $F 2 ** C e n t r a l , J o s é P í o A n g u l o 5 3 4 AEFGJLPUV @ 424071 $G 2 Residenciales A Italia, José Pío Angulo 599 near Belgrano LP @ 424066 $G 2 A Monica Mary, H. Yrigoyen 348 L @ 424172 $H 2 A Rivadavia, Rivadavia 157 ELP $H 2

S Buses

•

There are 17 daily services to and from Córdoba.

BIALET MASSÉ

B

ialet Massé is located 16 km north of Villa Carlos Paz on RN 38 near the northern end of Lago San Roque in the Punilla valley. Although one of the quieter towns in the Punilla valley, it is still within easy reach of all the tourist areas. Bialet Massé is considered the geographical center of Argentina. Direct daily buses run to Córdoba and to all Punilla tourist areas. Some buses take the direct route to Córdoba via El Diquecito and La Calera; this is also a scenic drive.

*

C Accommodation

•

*

*

Hostería Elba, RN 38 KM 745 AELPV @ 440019 $G 2

254

Hostería El Mirador, RN 38 Mirador del Lago $I 1 Hotel Bialet Massé, R Indarte near Deheza AELPV @ 440031 $G 2 Hotel Portón del Lago, Costa del Río @ 440860

Bialet Massé

PAMPA PROVINCES

CAPILLA DEL MONTE

Capilla del Monte Population: 7200 Postal code: 5184 @ area code: (03548) Altitude: 980 m Distance from Córdoba 110 km north-west on RN 38

T

his tourist resort is in the Sierras Chicas at the foot of Cerro Uritorco which at 1950 m dominates the little town. Capilla del Monte’s unusual microclimate is caused by a higher than usual negative ion content in the atmosphere, making the air very stimulating, a phenomenon also found in Merlo in San Luis

C Accommodation in Capilla del Monte Complejo Turístico

@ @ @

481754/481229 $E 481166 481793 $F

2

AEFGJLPSUV AEFGJLPUV AELPV AELPV AELPV

@ @ @ @ @

481186 481958 482056 482183 481123

$G $G $I $H $H

2 2 1 2 2

ABCELPV

@

481007

$E

4

481766 fax 482070 fax 481019 481667 481043 fax 481083 481331 481740 481028

$E $F $H $F

2 2 2 2

$F $G $H $H

2 2 1 2

Uritorco, RN 38 near Jujuy AELPV • Jondro’s Inn, RN 38 near E. Muiño • Pato’s, H. Yrigoyen near Deán Funes

*

Hosterías ** ** * * *

Las Gemelas, L.N. Alem 967 Tercer Millenio, Corrientes 471 La Atalaya, 9 de Julio 371 María Antonieta Suárez, San Luis 452

Cabañas El Remanso, Latinoamérica 28 • La Toma, Paseo La Toma

*

Hotels **** ** ** ** ** ** * * *

ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ Cerro Uritorco, L.N. Alem 671 AEFGJLPUV @ La Gran Aldea, Corrientes 179 AEFGJLPUV @ Petit Sierras, Pueyrredón 622 near Salta AEFGJLPUV @ Principado, 9 de Julio 550 AEFGJLPUV @ Roma, Corrientes 387 AEFGJLPUV @ Fernández, Pueyrredón 771 AELPV @ La Casona, Avenida Pueyrredón 774 AELPSV @ Plaza, Sarmiento 455 AELPV @ Kuntur, Falucho 121 near Chubut

Residenciales A A A A • •

Centro, H. Yrigoyen near Déan FunesLP Galicia, Salta 174 ELP La Terraza, V. Sarsfield 147 LP Nuñez, H. Yrigoyen 355 EFLP Villa Ani, Salta 462 Albergue Calabalumba AEHL hire of bicycles

4

@ @

482116 481366

@ @

482014 481477

$F

4

@

481341 fax

$J

1

$H

2

Accommodation in San Estebán *

Hotel Padre Rodolfo Hanzelic, Ave. Olmos German spoken AELPV

Capilla del Monte

255

CÓRDOBA province. This is aided by its particular geographical situation between the mountains: the climate is dry without being arid and Capilla enjoys a maximum number of sunny days.

L Financial

There are walks in the nearby mountains, medicinal waters, waterfalls and wide views. Despite its graffiti, El Zapato rock is particularly worth a visit. One block from the central Plaza San Martín is Calle Techada, a street under a roof. Under Accommodation I have also covered San Estebán, which is located half-way between La Cumbre and Capilla del Monte.

•

S Buses

The central bus terminal is on Rivadavia. • ABLO, Rivadavia @ 481036 • Empresa Contal, El Serrano, Pampa de Achala, and 20 de Junio run local services to and from Córdoba and the district • ABLO, Costera Criolla and T.A. Chevallier also run long-distance services. For details see Buses from Córdoba on page 267

B Tourist information •

Banco de la Provincia de Córdoba, Rivadavia 402 @ 481088

Secretaría de Turismo, Rivadavia 541, in the Railway station @ 4381341 ext. 41

U Motoring

D Camping

RN 38 rises towards La Cumbre, reaching its highest point there at 1142 m. The road narrows at Valle de la Punilla. • Service station: A.C.A., B Mitre 1076

E Eating out

Y Shopping

•

Municipal Calabalumba, on the banks of the Río Calabaluma

Try the honey made from carob blossom

Restaurants • Ca Mon, Diagonal Buenos Aires 235 • El Residencial, Salta 255 • Entre Platos, Diagonal Buenos Aires 182 • La Rueda, Diagonal Buenos Aires 152 • Tía Ramón, Rivadavia 539. Parrilla Pizzerías • Barbacoa, Diagonal Buenos Aires 202 • El Gordo Vitale, Diagonal Buenos Aires 266 • Río Negro, Deán Funes 581 • Uritorco, Diagonal Buenos Aires 110 Cafeterías • Camarote Caffe, Diagonal Buenos Aires 151 • La Terminal, Rivadavia

a Sport

•

p Sightseeing

•

•

n Entertainment • •

Patio Bar, H. Yrigoyen 161. Dancing The Loft Disco, Diagonal Buenos Aires 161. Disco and bar

•

Iglesia Parroquial San Antonio de Padua was begun in 1659 and took nearly 70 years to complete. It was enlarged in 1910. The carved image of the patron saint goes back to the foundation of the church. Pueblo Encanto is a castle in Spanish-Moorish style on a 16 ha (40 acre) property. It was built to accommodate King Alfonso XIII of Spain when he abdicated in 1931. It has Moorish gardens, swimming pool, tennis courts, amphitheatre and a restaurant.

s Excursions Tour operators • Turismo Aventura Espinosa, Salta 492 @ 482152; mountaineering and hiking

I Post and telegraph •

Club de Tenis Capilla del Monte, La Atalaya

Post office: Correo Argentino, Corrientes 158 Telephone: Telecom, Jujuy 103

256

Capilla del Monte

PAMPA PROVINCES •

Hang gliding (“parapentes”), L.N. Alem 649 @ 481329

Excursions • Cerro Uritorco: The summit can be reached by a winding path in 21 2 hours. There are good views over much of the Punilla and the Sierras de Córdoba. Permission to walk must be obtained from a house beyond the river crossing. Admission: $2.00 • Dique Los Alazanes with Cerro Las Gemelas is a leisurely 3 hour walk over 11 km; in the artificial lake you can fish for pejerrey • There are two walking paths at the crest of the Sierras Chicas: one is to Los Cocos and the other to Agua de los Palos including Las Gemelas • Río Mayo: Excellent trout fishing, one hour’s drive from Capilla del Monte • San Marcos Sierra: The 22 km winding road to San Marcos Sierra is

•

•

particularly scenic You can walk here on the 22 km dirt road. Parakeets abound. There are many small farmhouses, and you will also see panoramic views to the Dique Cruz del Eje. Coord. Valle de Punilla runs daily frequent buses to and from Capilla del Monte. Suggestion: walk down to San Marcos Sierra and return by bus Parque Municipal El Zapato, 1 km from the town center, is a rock outcrop of volcanic origin. Some rocks have peculiar shapes due to the erosive force of wind and water A scenic drive to Ongamira via Quebrada de la Luna, 26 km east of town on RP 17 leading to Villa del Totoral a further 50 odd kilometers. Ongamira was the last redoubt of the Comechingones Indians

CÓRDOBA

Córdoba Population: 1 235 000 Postal code: 5000 @ area code: (0351) Altitude: 400 m Distances • From Buenos Aires: 713 km north-west on RN 9 • From Santiago del Estero: 439 km south on RN 9

C

órdoba is the capital of the province and the second largest city in Argentina. It was founded in 1573 by Jerónimo Luis de Cabrera, and its university which dates from 1613 was one of the first in the country. Córdoba has retained a remarkable number of buildings from its Spanish past despite the fact that it is now a modern industrial city—it is the hub of the Argentine car manufacturing industry—and an important commercial center. Renault and Fiat have huge factory complexes on the southern outskirts. The center around Plaza San Martín may be described as a jewel of colonial art. The inner-city pedestrian malls are full

Córdoba

of shops and restaurants, and the night life is quite dazzling. Culture is very important in Córdoba—there are plenty of theaters and museums. Córdoba is situated on the Río Primero. To the west and south the Sierras de Córdoba rise to a height of over 2500 m, while to the east there is the seemingly endless flat pampa. Also described here are La Calera and Villa Allende. 257

CÓRDOBA La Calera is located on the northern outskirts of Córdoba, 19 km from the town center on the road to Lago San Roque, at an altitude of 500 m. By taking this route into the Punilla you by-pass Villa Carlos Paz and reach the Punilla near Bialet Massé. Of interest are the nearby ruins of a Jesuit chapel built in the eighteenth century and the ruins of an old mill. @ code (03543).

To Va. Allende

To Airport

From La Calera Casa Bamba is further up the Río Primero. Villa Allende is located at the foot of Cerro Pan de Azúcar, at an altitude of 505 m; just 17 km north of Córdoba it is virtually an outer northern suburb. It has an 18-hole golf course where the prestigious Centro de la República golf tournament is held. @ code (03543).

A Festivals

•

Foundation of the City: July 6

To Río Ceballos

To Santiago del Estero

57 74 9

BVAR DE LOS ALEMANE S

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

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Córdoba

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Córdoba

There are cheap hotels in the area next to the bus terminal (across the pedestrian bridge) and also in Alto Córdoba (Upper Córdoba) near F C General Belgrano station. Hotels ***** ****

**** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** **

Sussex, San Jerónimo 125 ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$TUVXYZ Fax 4229070 @ 4229075 Córdoba Park Hotel, Bulevar San Juan 165 Fax 4245772 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ @ 4207000 Córdoba Plaza, San Jerónimo 137 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 4268900 Dr César C Carman, Avenida Sabattini 459 @ 4229100 fax Fax 4268840 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Ducal Suites Hotel, Corrientes 207 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ Fax 4268840 @ 4268800 Gran Hotel Dora, Entre Ríos 70 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 4240167 @ 4240167 Mediterráneo, M.T. de Alvear 10 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 4240111 @ 4240086 Panorama, M.T. de Alvear 251 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ @ 4204000 fax Panorama Business, M.T. de Alvear 363 @ 4203900 fax ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ Windsor, Buenos Aires 214 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 4228051 @ 4224012/5 fax Cristal, Entre Ríos 56 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 4245000 @ 4244555 de la Cañada, M.T. de Alvear 580, along the Cañada Fax 4231227 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 4214649 El Virrey, Bulevar Mitre 227 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 4257777 @ 4220039 Felipe II, San Jerónimo 279 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: [email protected] @ 4255500 fax Grand Astoria, Avenida Colón 164 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Ffax 4240697 @ 4215092 Ritz, San Jerónimo 495 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 42227409 @ 4215031 Viña de Italia, San Jerónimo 611 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 4251678 @ 4226589 Waldorf, Avenida Olmos 513 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 4235806 @ 4228051 Argentino, Entre Ríos 60 AEFGJLPUV Fax 4245000 @ 4214609 Bristol, Pasaje Tomás Oliver 64 AEFGJLPUV @ 4232216 fax Corona, San Jerónimo 574 AEFGJLPUV @ 4228789 Dallas, San Jerónimo 339 AEFGJLPUV Fax 4216091 @ 4216092 Del Boulevard, Bulevar Arturo Illia 184 AEFGJLPSUV @ 4243718 fax Del Sol, Balcarce 144 AEFGJLPUV Fax 4233961 @ 4233961 Dorrego, Tránsito Cáceres de Allende 485 AEFGJLPUV @ 4221039 fax Gran Crisol, Avenida Sabattini 1516 AEFGHLPUY Fax 4217164 @ 4220205 Gran Rex, Vélez Sarsfield 601 ADEFGHJKLPTUVY @ 4238961 fax Heydi, Bulevar Illia 615 AEFGJLPUV @ 4233544 fax

Córdoba

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CÓRDOBA Accommodation in Córdoba — continued ** ** * * * * * * * * * *

Montecarlo, Avenida Sabattini 1699 AEFGJLPUV @ 4553492 fax Royal, Bulevar Perón 180 (opposite F C General Mitre rail station) AEFGJLPUV @ 4227155 Alex, Bulevar Illia 742 AELPV @ 4214350 Claridge, 25 de Mayo 218 AELPV @ 4215741 Cuyo, Obispo Trejo 647 AELPV @ 4238134 Damar, Bulevar Illia 518 AELPV @ 4233180 Garden, 25 de Mayo 35 ADEHKLPUV @ 4214729 Mallorca, Balcarce 73 AELPV Near F C General B Mitre rail station and bus terminal @ 4239234 Paseo del César, Rincón 173 AELPV @ 4225965 Riviera, Balcarce 74 AELPV Near the bus terminal @ 4235303 Roma Termini, Entre Ríos 687 AELPV @ 4218721 Viena, Laprida 235 AELPV @ 4229814

Residenciales

A Florida, Rosario de Santa Fe 459 LP A Meridiano, San Jerónimo 532 LP • Hospedaje Susy, Entre Ríos 528 For budget travelers A Turin’s, Vélez Sarsfield 671 LP A Vázquez, Santiago del Estero 188 LP A Wonder, San Jerónimo 519 EFLP Fax 4228051 • Central, Bulevar Perón 150 near bus station • Tanoa formerly Soledad, San Jerónimo 479 For budget travelers

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Accommodation in Alto Córdoba near F C General Belgrano station Hotels ** ** *

Castelar, Avenida J.L. de Cabrera 265 AEFGJLPUV Gran Savoy, Avenida J.L. de Cabrera 201 AEFGJLPUV Fax 4721342 Valle, Avenida J.L. de Cabrera 197 AELPV

Residenciales

A Italiano, J.L. de Cabrera 313

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Accommodation in General Paz The barrio of General Paz is located in the north-eastern part of the city.

• Hotel Bari, Sarmiento 1510 near Roma opp. Hospital Italiano ADFGPT @ 4522495 fax

Accommodation in La Calera

• Hotel Le Passion, RP 55 Hotel Suquía, S. Moyano 401

*

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Accommodation in Villa Allende

• Hospedaje Premier, Sargento Cabral 137

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B Tourist information

San Gerónimo (St Jerome): September 30

•

260

Secretaría Turismo de la Provincia de Córdoba, Tucumán 360 @ 4233061/4233248 fax 4245370

Córdoba

PAMPA PROVINCES • •

• • •

•

La Perla II, San Gerónimo 137 downstairs • La Vieja Casa, Independencia 508. Parrilla • La Yaya, Independencia 468 • Maté y Plata, Santa Rosa 430 • Munich Avenida, Avenida Colón 170 • Paseo de Gracia, Poeta Lugones 370. German cuisine • Rías Bajas, Montevideo 251 • Romagnolo, Avenida Presidente J D Perón 152 near San Jerónimo ( opposite F C General B Mitre station) • Sol y Luna, Avenida General Paz 278. Vegetarian • Sorocabana, San Jerónimo 98 • Verde Que Te Quiero Verde, 9 de Julio 36. Vegetarian Pizzerías • Antojos, Sucre 119 • Eduardo II, San Martín 46 • Il Bocato, 9 de Julio 540 • La Tasca, Obispo Trejo 22 • Pizzetón, Maipú 180 Cafeterías • Armando III., Deán Funes 52 • Brujas, Achaval Rodríguez 70 • Café de la Paix, San Martín 10 • Castelar, Vélez Sarsfield 78 • Crocker’s, Bulevar Chacabuco 180 • El Quijote, Avenida Vélez Sarsfield 23 near Paseo Santa Catalina • La Tasca del Paseo, Obispo Trejo 22 near Déan Funes • Schneider, Déan Funes near Belgrano. Bar • Zhivago, Avenida General Paz 136 near 9 de Julio

Information center, Cabildo Histórico Independencia 30 facing Plaza San Martín Dirección de Patrimonio Cultural y Turismo de la Municipalidad (Córdoba City Information center), Rosario de Santa Fe 39 @ 4235031/4225761 Tourist information on ground floor in bus terminal, open daily 08:00–20:00 Club Andino, 27 de Abril 2050 Wed 21:00–22:00 Asociación Argentina de Guías de Montaña (Argentine Mountain Guide Association) @ 4808640. Contact: Mr. Jorge Tarditti

E Eating out Restaurants • A Comer, Bulevar San Juan 87. Chinese cuisine • Betos, Bulevar San Juan 450. Parrilla • Boulevard, Bulevar Chacabuco 702 • Casa de España, 24 de Septiembre 94. Spanish cuisine • Cinecitta, Deán Funes 353. Cafeteria • Círculo Alemán, Alsina 145. German cuisine • Como en Casa, Avenida Colón 737 • De la Compañía, Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 45. International cuisine • De la Fundación, Independencia 149. Parrilla • Dixie, 9 de Julio 340 • El Cántaro, Avenida Olmos 146 • El Mundo, Entre Ríos 38. Chinese cuisine • El Parador, Bulevar San Juan 40. Parrilla • Estancia La María, 9 de Julio 366. Parrilla • Gente, Avenida Colón 498 near Jujuy. Cafeteria • Hamilton, 9 de Julio 50 • Il Gatto, Avenida General Paz 120 near 9 de Julio. Italian cuisine • Jockey Club, Avenida General Paz 195 • La Cacerola, Avenida Olmos 35 • La Mamma, Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 270. Italian cuisine • La Parrilla de Miguel, Bulevar San Juan 968. Parrilla • La Perla, Avenida Olmos 265

Córdoba

Fast food • Ufo, Avenida Vélez Sarsfield 153 Eating out on Avenida Sabattini Restaurants • Caballito Blanco, Avenida Sabattini 477. Bar • Colonial, Avenida Sabattini 1817. Parrilla Emperador, Avenida Sabattini 1405. Parrilla • Don Siriaccos, Avenida Sabattini 1883. Parrilla • Giovannino, Avenida Sabattini 2048. International cuisine Cafeterías • A.C.A., Avenida Sabattini 459

261

CÓRDOBA Key to map C G P T

Municipalidad (Town hall) Mercado Norte A.C.A. Bus terminals

3 Accommodation 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 18 52 95 97 111 123 124 125 127 131 134 135 136 138

Residencial Italiano Hotel Castelar Hotel Gran Savoy Hotel Valle Hotel Paseo del César Residencial Mar Del Hotel El Virrey Hotel Grand Astoria Hotel Mediterráneo Hotel Royal Residencial Central Hotel Panorama Business Hotel Damar Hotel Alex Hotel Dorrego Hotel de la Cañada Hotel Dr César C Carman Hotel Gran Rex Residencial Turin’s Hotel Cuyo Hotel Viena

12 14 24 25 26 27 37 54 96 110 120 128 129 132 133 139 141

Restaurant La Mamma Restaurant Gente Restaurant Como en Casa Pizzería Il Bocato Pizzería Antojos Restaurant Dixie and Restaurant Estancia La María Restaurant de la Compañía Restaurant Cinecitta Restaurant Romagnolo Restaurant Betos Restaurant La Yaya Restaurant Rías Bajas Restaurant La Vieja Casa and Restaurant La Cocina de Oses Cafetería A.C.A. Restaurant Caballito Blanco Restaurant Boulevard Restaurant Paseo de Gracia

6 Airline offices

13 Aerolíneas Argentinas and Southern Winds

7 Tour operators and car rental 9 Localiza Rent a Car 15 Excursiones Calamuchita

9 Sights

80 Biblioteca de Córdoba 137 Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón 140 Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes “Emilio Caraffa”

0 Services 1

10 53 79 81 98 112 122 126 130

F C General Belgrano rail road station Secretaría Turismo Alliance Française Dirección de Migraciones Italian consulate Defunct F C General B Mitre railroad station Peruvian consulate Goethe Institut Tourist information Laundromat Integral

4 Eating out

11 Restaurant Maté y Plata

•

Rincón Libanés, Avenida R. Núñez 3800. Lebanese cuisine Eating out in Alto Córdoba Restaurants • La Amistad, R.S. Peña 1523

Eating out in Nueva Córdoba Restaurants • Guccio, H. Yrigoyen 81. International cuisine • La Cocina de Oses, Independencia 512. International cuisine Eating out on Avenida Colón • El Farallón, Avenida Colón 1456. Show • La Gruta, Avenida Colón 2051. Show

n Entertainment

•

Tonos y Toneles, Avenida Santa Fe 450. Peña folklórica Entertainment on Avenida Sabattini • Bateau, Avenida Sabattini 1500. Dancing Entertainment in Nueva Córdoba • Fly City, H. Yrigoyen 370. Dancing • Sweep, H.Yrigoyen 465, Dancing

Eating out in Cerro de las Rosas Cerro de Las Rosas is a western suburb of Córdoba. Restaurants • Casa China, Avenida R. Núñez 4580 • H.B.H., Avenida Rafael Núñez 4615. Beer garden • Il Gatto Trattoria, Avenida R. Núñez 3850. Italian cuisine • La Chiquita, Avenida R. Núñez 4000. Mexican cuisine • La Tranquera, Avenida R. Núñez 4691 • Los Lomitos, Avenida R. Núñez 4850 • Rigoletto Ristorante, Avenida R. Núñez 4530

Entertainment in Cerro de Las Rosas • Champagne, Avenida R. Núñez 5800. Dancing • República, Avenida R. Núñez 5100. Dancing

I Post and telegraph

• •

262

Central post office: Correo Central, Avenida Colón 201 Parcel dispatch: Avenida Colón 230

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• •

Laundromats • Integral, Salguero 555 • La Burbúja, corner of Ituzaingó and San Lorenzo; Open Sun • Laverap, corner of M.T. de Alvear and Belgrano • Limpi-Mas, Vélez Sarsfield 56 (Edificio General Pérez). Open Mon –Sat 07:30–21:30

Post office: Bus terminal Telephone: Telecom, Avenida General Paz 36. For international calls dial @ 000

L Financial • • •

• • • •

Avincor, Rivadavia 15 @ 4241033 LLoyd’s Bank, Buenos Aires 23 Cambio Barujel, San Martín 27 @ 4239540 First National Citibank, Rivadavia 104. Advances on Diners Club card; open 07:30–13:30 Coin Viajes y Cambio, 25 de Mayo 100 @ 4214190 Exprinter, Rivadavia 39 @ 4238219 Maguitur, Rivadavia 30 @ 4233388

Photographic supplies • Fotoscoop, Vélez Sarsfield 80. Good selection of photographic equipment • La Casa de Fotografo, Déan Funes 159

N Clubs

• •

M Services and facilities • • •

Dry cleaner: San Gerónimo 600 Medical services: Clínica Privada Nuevo Córdoba, Chacabuco block 700 (corner of Derqui) Supermarket: Americanos, Vélez Sarsfield 138

• •

264

British: British Council, San Juan 137. Has a good library French: Alliance Française, Ayacucho 46 German: Goethe Institut, Avenida Illia 356; Mon–Fri 17:00–21:00 Italian: Instituto Italiano Cultura, Vélez Sarsfield block 300 (corner of D.Quiróz)

Córdoba

PAMPA PROVINCES Key to map A B

La Catedral Gobernación Provincial (Government) Correo Central Telecom A.C.A. Mini bus terminal

D E P T

3 Accommodation 23 31 36 49 51 66 67 69 71 73 74 75 76 77 78 91 92 93 94 100 103 104 105 108 109 115 117 118 121

Hotel Waldorf Hotel Garden Residencial Vázquez Hotel Claridge Residencial Florida Hotel Sussex Hotel Córdoba Plaza Hotel Felipe II Hotel Dallas Residencial Thanoa Hotel Ritz Residencial Wonder Hotel Riviera Hotel Mallorca Hotel Viña de Italia Residencial Meridiano Hotel Corona Hotel del Sol Hotel Roma Termini Hotel Panorama Hotel Cristal Hotel Argentino Hotel Gran Hotel Dora Hotel Ducal Suites Hospedaje Susy Hotel Windsor Hotel Heydi Hotel Córdoba Park Hotel Hotel Del Boulevard

4 Eating out

16 Restaurant Sol y Luna 17 Restaurant Munich Avenida 19 Restaurant La Cacerola 20 Restaurant La Perla

28 Restaurant Jockey Club 29 Cafetería Zhivago and Restaurant Il Gatto 30 Restaurant Verde Que Te Quiero Verde and Restaurant Hamilton 34 Restaurant El Cántaro 40 Cafetería Armando III. 42 Pizzería Eduardo II 44 Cafetería Café de la Paix 50 Pizzería Pizzetón 57 Cafetería Castelar 59 Cafetería El Quijote 61 Pizzería La Tasca 83 Fast food Ufo 85 Restaurant De la Fundación 87 Restaurant Sorocabana 89 Cafetería Crocker’s Cafetería La Tasca del Paseo 102 Restaurant El Mundo 114 Restaurant El Parador 119 Restaurant A Comer

9 Sights

5 Entertainment

22 33 41 43

86 Teatro Real 113 Teatro del Libertador

6 Airline offices

70 Líneas Aéras Andesmar 99 LAPA

• • • • •

21 38 48 90

Viajes Aeroturis Budget Rent a Car Maguitur Rent a Car Potenza Dadiveco 106 A1 International Rent a Car 116 Avis Rent a Car

46

58 60 63 65 82 88

German consulate First National Citibank Cambio Barujel Asociación Cordobesa de Artesanos Dirección de Patrimonio Cultural y Turismo de la Municipalidad Exprinter and Avincor Limpi-Mas Fotoscoop La Casa de Fotografo Information center Lloyd’s Bank Supermercado Americanos Banco de la Provincia de Córdoba

U Motoring

Visa extensions: Dirección de Migraciones, Caseros 680 @ 422740 Bolivian consulate, Avenida Castro Barros 873 1st floor @ 4732327 Chilean consulate, Crisol 280 @ 4609622 German consulate, Olmos 501 @ 4233962 Italian consulate, Ayacucho 129 @ 4221010 Peruvian consulate, Belgrano 313. @ 4237124. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–14:00

Córdoba

0 Services

7 Tour operators and car 47 rental 56

P Visas, passports •

32 Basílica de la Merced 35 Iglesia del Pilar 39 Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes “Genaro Pérez” 45 La Casa del Obispo Mercadillo 55 Basílica de Santo Domingo 62 Monasterio de Santa Catalina 64 Old Cabildo (City Council) building 68 Museo Casa del Virrey Sobremonte 72 Capilla San Roque 84 Iglesia y Convento de Santa Teresa 101 Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús and the Universidad Mayor de San Marcos 107 Iglesia San Francisco

Service stations • A.C.A., Humberto I block 200 near General Paz • Y.P.F., Rosario de Santa Fe block 600 near Bulevar Guzmán) Car rental • A1 Rent a Car, Hotel Dora, Entre Ríos 70 @ 4224867 fax 4212031. Also at airport • Avis, Corrientes 452 @ 4227384. Also at airport • Budget, Figueroa Alcorta 50 @ 4220781

265

CÓRDOBA R Air services from Córdoba

Aeropuerto Internacional Pajas Blancas, 15 km from the city, is modern and has a very good restaurant. The airport bus leaves from the bus terminal (local 6B) at the corner of Lugones and Avenida Perón half an hour before the plane leaves. Fares to the airport: bus $1.00; taxi $4.00. Airlines • Andesmar, Avenida Chacabuco 80 @ 4217191 ° Catamarca ° Chilecito ° La Rioja; 3 weekly ° Mendoza; 1 daily ° Rosario ($69.00; 1 hour); 10 weekly ° Salta; 1 daily ° San Luis ($64.00; 3 4 hr); 3 weekly ° Tucumán; 1 daily • Southern Winds, Avenida Colón 540 @ 4266626 ° Bariloche via Santa Rosa and Neuquén; 5 weekly ° Buenos Aires (11 4hrs); 4 daily ° Mendoza via San Juan; 2–4 daily ° Resistencia (1 hr); 1 daily ° Salta via La Rioja and Catamarca; 1–2 daily ° Salta via Tucumán; 1–3 daily ° Santa Fe via Rosario; 1–6 daily • Aerolíneas Argentinas/Austral, Avenida Colón 520 @ 4215003 ° Buenos Aires; 5 daily ° Mendoza (1 hr); 1 daily • LAPA, Caseros 355 @ 4220188 ° Buenos Aires (1 hour); 2 daily Air fares and duration • • • • • • • •

• •

Buenos Aires Catamarca Chilecito La Rioja Mendoza Rosario Salta Tucumán

$150.00 $64.00 $75.00 $65.00 $70.00 $70.00 $112.00 $80.00

11 4 hrs 1 hour 11 2 hrs 13 4 hrs 1 hour 1 hour 21 4 hrs 11 4 hrs

Y Shopping

Localiza Rent a Car, Humberto I 531 @ 4236505 Rent a Car Potenza Dadiveco, Chacabuco 185 @ 4210426

Córdoba is a good shopping city; it has a large area of pedestrian malls, but prices tend to be higher than in Buenos Aires. There are several new shopping centers such as Córdoba Shopping Center on Obispo Lascano corner of Virgen de la Merced, and Nuevo Centro Shopping in Duarte Quirós 1400. • Asociación Cordobesa de Artesanos, San Martín 42, Galería San Martín

T Trains

The only train operating in Córdoba Province is the Tren de las Sierras which goes up to the Punilla valley. The trains depart from Estación R. Del Busto. • Cruz del Eje via Cosquín ($5.50; 3 hrs), La Falda, La Cumbre, Huerta Grande ($9.00), and Capilla del Monte ($11.00)

a Sport

The Estadio de Córdoba Chateau Carreras is 11 km from the center in the

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PAMPA PROVINCES S Buses from Córdoba

The modern bus terminal is located on Avenida Presidente J.D. Perón 250 (between Avenida Illia and Avenida Lugones) @ 4234704/4212073/4212472. It houses several cafeterias and restaurants, a tourist office, a post office, public telephones, shops, a bank (cash only at official rate), and clean rest rooms with showers (soap and towel $1.00). It gets crowded at weekends when people travel to neighboring resorts. For destinations within the province there are several local transport terminals. The largest mini terminal is at Mercado Sur, Bulevar Illia 155; a further minibus terminal is on Entre Ríos 358 two blocks up from the main bus terminal; a third “local bus terminal” is on Bulevar San Juan 32/50 just three blocks up from Mercado Sur. Where possible I have indicated the bus destinations from each “terminal”. Companies using main bus terminal • ABLO @ 4299630/1/2/4247015 ° Buenos Aires via Leones, Oncativo, Villa María, Bell Ville, Marcos Juárez, and Rosario; 2–3 daily ° Catamarca via Jesús María and Déan Funes; 3 daily ° Chilecito (7 hrs) via Villa Carlos Paz, Cruz del Eje, Villa de Soto, Chamical, and Patquia; 2 daily ° La Rioja via Villa de Soto and Chamical; 3 daily ° Santa Fe via San Francisco; 2 daily • Andesmar @ 4221951 ° Rawson (44 hrs) via Río Cuarto, Realicó, Santa Rosa, Río Colorado, and San Antonio Oeste; 1 daily ° Jujuy via Villa Ojo de Agua, Santiago del Estero, Tucumán, and General Güemes; 1 daily • Atahualpa ° Salta via Santiago del Estero and Tucumán • Autotransporte San Juan Mar del Plata Local 1B @ 4221951 ° Mar del Plata via Laboulaye • Balut Hnos Local 49 @ 4251950 ° Jujuy via Santiago del Estero, Tucumán, and Salta; 1 daily • Betel Ejecutivo @ 4244140 ° Mar del Plata via Villa María and Buenos Aires • CACORBA @ 4299630/1/2 ° Asunción (Paraguay) via Resistencia and Formosa; 5 weekly ° Belén via Villa Carlos Paz, La Falda, La Rioja and Tinogasta ° Buenos Aires via Bell Ville; 2 services daily ° Tucumán via Jesús María, Villa Ojo de Agua, and Santiago del Estero; 1–2 daily • COLTA SACIF @ 4221951 ° Embalse via Villa General Belgrano, Santa Rosa de Calamuchita, and Villa del Dique • Coop La Calera @ 4233059 ° La Calera via Argüello, Sorrento, Saldán, and Dumesnil ° Cruz del Eje via La Calera • Costera Criolla @ 4226160/4234100 COTAP, local 39 @ 4210055 ° Villa de Soto via Córdoba, Villa Carlos Paz, Villa García, and Tanti; 1–2 daily • El Petizo @ 4224271 ° Villa Dolores via Villa Carlos Paz, Tanti, Los Gigantes, Taninga, Salsacate, Villa Viso, Villa Cura Brochero, Mina Clavero, Nono, Lago La Viña, Las Rabonas, Los Hornillos, and Villa Las Rosas; 2 services daily ° Villa Dolores via Villa Carlos Paz, Copina, Pampa de Achala, Mina Clavero, Nono, Lago La Viña, Las Rabonas Los Hornillos, Villa Las Rosas, and Mina Clavero; 2 services daily

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CÓRDOBA Buses from Córdoba — continued • • • • • • •

• • •

• • • •

•

El Práctico, local 21C @ 4225160 ° Santa Fe via Córdoba and San Francisco El Rápido Internacional @ 4239199 El Santiagueño @ 4248990 ° Buenos Aires ° Tucumán via Santiago del Estero and Termas de Río Hondo; 1 daily El Serrano @ 4229751 ° Capilla del Monte via Villa Carlos Paz; 1 service daily ° Paraná via San Francicso, Rafaela, Santa Fe, Corrientes; 3–6 weekly El Triunfo ° Neuquén via Río Tercero and Río Cuarto, ° Santiago del Estero Empresa Salles @ 4254374 ° Catamarca via Frías; 1 daily Empresa de Transporte Morteros, local 62 @ 4252166 ° Rafaela via San Francisco ° Miramar via Monte Cristo, Piquillín, Río Primero, Santa Rosa del Río Primero, Santiago Temple, Arroyito, El Tío, and Balnearia; 3 daily Empresa El Litoral @ 4256364 ° Paraná via Córdoba and Santa Fe; 2 daily Empresa Mar Chiquita ° San Francisco Expreso Córdoba-Mar del Plata @ 4226979 ° Mar del Plata via Alta Gracia, Almafuerte, Río Tercero, La Carlota, (Venado Tuerto), Pergamino, and Buenos Aires (13 hrs!) and La Plata; 2 daily ° San Juan (8 hrs) via Villa Carlos Paz, La Falda, Cruz del Eje, Villa de Soto, Chepes, Vallecito, and Caucete; 1 daily ° San Luis (61 2 hrs) via Almafuerte, Río Cuarto, and Villa Mercedes; 1 daily Expreso Panamericano ° La Quiaca (Bolivian Border) via Santiago del Estero, Termas de Río Hondo, Tucumán, Salta, and Jujuy; 1 daily Expreso Singer @ 4226273 ° Puerto Iguazú (26 hrs) via Santa Fe, Paraná, Paso de los Libres, and Posadas; 1 daily Expreso Uspallata @ 4253066 ° Mendoza via Merlo and San Luis; 1–2 daily ° San Rafael via San Luis; 1–2 daily General Urquiza Local 8 @ 4210711 ° Ascochinga (21 4 hrs) via Villa Allende, Unquillo, Río Ceballos, and Salsipuedes; 1 daily ° Buenos Aires via Villa María, Leones, and Rosario; 2–3 services daily ° Catamarca (6 hrs) via Jesús María and Déan Funes; 3 daily ° Chilecito (81 4 hrs) via Villa Carlos Paz, Cosquín, La Falda, Cruz del Eje, Villa del Soto, Chamical, Patquia, and Vichigasta; 2 daily ° La Rioja (6 hrs) via Chamical and Patquia; 3 daily ° Los Cocos (23 4 hrs) via Villa Carlos Paz, Cosquín, Valle Hermoso, La Falda, Huerta Grande, Villa Giardino, La Cumbre, Cruz Chica, and Cruz Grande; 6–7 daily La Quebrada SRL @ 4228119 ° Río Ceballos via Argüello, Villa Allende, and Unquillo; 2 daily

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PAMPA PROVINCES Buses from Córdoba — continued •

• • • •

• • • • • • •

• •

La Veloz del Norte @ 4243307 ° Buenos Aires ° Salvador Mazza (Bolivian border) via Tucumán, Rosario de la Frontera, Metán, Salta, Jujuy, Libertador San Martín, and Tartagal Malvinas Argentinas @ 4212071 ° Pilar via Río Segundo, Ñandú del Sur @ 4235892 ° Bahía Blanca Ortiz ° Río Gallegos; 4 weekly Pampa de Achala ° Mina Clavero via Villa Carlos Paz, Cosquín, La Falda, Villa Giardino, La Cumbre, Capilla del Monte, Cruz del Eje, Villa de Soto, La Higuera, and Villa Cura Brochero; 2 daily ° Mina Clavero via Villa Carlos Paz, Tanti, Los Gigantes, Las Chacras, Villa Viso, El Mirador, Los Azulejos, and Villa Cura Brochero ° Villa Dolores via Villa Carlos Paz, Copina, Mina Clavero, Lago La Viña, Nono, and Los Hornillos S.A.T.A.G ° Alta Gracia Servicio Diferencial Capilla del Monte ° Capilla del Monte Sierras Cordobesas ° Capilla del Monte via Villa General Paz ° Río Cuarto via Alta Gracia Sierras de Calamuchita @ 4226080 ° Villa del Dique via Cruce Alta Gracia, Anizacate, Villa Ciudad de América, Villa General Belgrano, Santa Rosa de Calamuchita, and Villa Rumipal SOCASA ° San Juan; 1 daily T.A.C. @ 4216534 ° Mendoza via Río Cuarto and San Luis; 2 daily T.A. Chevallier ° Bell Ville via Villa María; 3 daily ° Capilla del Monte via Villa Carlos Paz, Bialet Massé, Cosquín, Valle Hermoso, La Falda, Huerta Grande, La Cumbre, Cruz Chica, Cruz Grande, Los Cocos, and San Estebán; 1 daily ° Cruz del Eje via Villa Carlos Paz, Tanti, Cosquín, Valle Hermoso, La Falda, Huerta Grande, Villa Giardino, La Cumbre, Los Cocos, and Capilla del Monte; 2 daily ° Río Cuarto via Almafuerte; 1 daily ° Rosario via Arias and Villa María; 3–4 daily ° Salsipuedes via Río Ceballos; 1 daily ° Villa de Soto via Cruz del Eje; 1 daily Transporte La Cumbre @ 4247508 ° San Juan via San Luis and Mendoza TUS/TUP @ 4299510 ° Bahía Blanca (15 hrs) via Alta Gracia, Santa Rosa de Calamuchita, Almafuerte, Berrotarán, Río Cuarto, and Santa Rosa; 1–3 daily ° Bariloche via Río Cuarto, Santa Rosa (La Pampa), and Neuquén; 1–2 daily

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PAMPA PROVINCES Buses from Córdoba — continued Mercado Sur Terminal The Córdoba Terminal de Minibus “Mercado Sud” is on Bulevar Illia 155 opposite Pasaje Antun. Bus companies • Antártida Argentina ° Pilar via Río Segundo • Dean Funes Servicio diferencial @ 4256129 • El Tatu Carretero @ 4236335 • Empresa Villa María ° Villa María • Sierras Vanns @ 4243810 Services • Alta Gracia ($1.50; 1 hr) @ 455541; 40 daily day and night • Bialet Massé @ 4256129; 16 daily • Capilla del Monte ($5.70; 3 hrs) @ 424582/4243810; 29 daily • Cerro Colorado @ 4255533; 3 per week • Cosquín ($4.00 11 2hrs) @ 4256129; 16 daily • Cruz del Eje (41 4 hrs) @ 456180; 30 daily • Déan Funes ($6.60; 21 4 hrs) @ 4256129; 30 daily • El Chañar @ 4245610 • Frías (S del Estero) @ 4236335 • Jesús María ($3.50;1 hour) @ 4555333; 16 daily • Laboulaye @ 456129; 5 daily • La Cumbre ($4.60; 21 2 hrs) @ 4243810; 29 daily • La Cumbrecita @ 452854; • La Falda ($3.50 ; 2 hrs) @ 4243810; 40 daily; • La Rinconada @ 4236335 • Mina Clavero ($11.00; 6 hrs) @ 4236335; 17 daily • Río Cuarto @ 4221161; 30 daily (3 hrs) • Río Segundo @ 4254751 • Salsacate @ 4236744 • Villa Carlos Paz (3 4 hrs) @ 4244332/4241586; 40 daily day and night • Villa de María del Río Seco @ 4245610; 10 daily • Villa General Belgrano ($5.50; 2 hrs) @ 4252854; 17 daily • Villa María (21 4 hrs) @ 4236335 • Villa Tulumba @ 4256129; 5 daily Bus terminal on Entre Ríos 358 Services • Arroyito @ 4257874 • Balnearia @ 4257874 • Colonia Caroya @ 454735; 17 daily • Cosquín ($4.00; 11 2 hrs) @ 4217477 • Déan Funes @ 4222155 • Despeñaderos @ 4257400 • Jesús María ($3.50; 1 hour) @ 4254737 • La Calera @ 4259264; 30 daily • Mina Clavero ($10.00; 4 hrs) @ 4254390; • Miramar @ 4257874; 6 daily • Río Primero @ 217477 • Río Tercero (11 2 hrs) @ 4237550; 34 daily • Santa Rosa de Calamuchita ($6.00; 21 2 hrs) @ 4254390; 17 daily

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PAMPA PROVINCES Buses from Córdoba — continued • Tanti (11 2 hrs) @ 4257874; 5 daily • Villa Carlos Paz (3 4 hour) @ 4257874 • Villa del Totoral @ 4251622; 23 daily • Villa General Belgrano ($5.50; 2 hrs) @ 4254390 • Villa María (21 4 hrs) @ 4237550; 16 daily • Villa Tulumba @ 4222155; 5 daily Bus terminal on Bulevar San Juan 32/50 • Coord. San Francisco ° San Francisco via Río Primero, Arroyito, La Francia, and Devoto; 2 daily Other provincial bus services departing from Bulevar San Juan 32/50 • Berrotarán @ 4221161; 17 daily • Bialet Massé @ 4221161 • Cosquín ($4.00; 11 2 hrs) @ 4221161 • Huerta Grande @ 4221161 • Jesús María ($3.50; 1 hour) • Las Varillas @ 4221161 • Oliva @ 4221161; 16 daily • Oncativo @ 4221161; 16 daily • Río Cuarto (3 hrs) @ 4221161 • Río Tercero (11 2 hrs) @ 4221161 • San Francisco @ 4221161; 23 daily • Santa Rosa de Calamuchita ($6.00; 21 2 hrs) @ 4221161 • Valle Hermoso @ 4221161 • Villa General Belgrano ($5.50; 2 hrs) @ 4262626 Companies with own terminal • Coata, Ave. Madrid 2358 @ 4239133 ° Laboulaye via Toledo, Pilar, Oncativo, Villa María, La Carlota, and Ruíz Díaz de Guzmán • Empresa Córdoba SRL, Dr. Sabatini 2297 @ 4552129 ° Córdoba, Bell Ville, Marcos Juárez • Microbus Sol, Entre Ríos 344 @ 4254737 ° Jesús María • Servicio Diferencial Panaholma; Chacabuco 150 @ 4233958 ° Villa Dolores ($11.40, 5 hrs) via Mina Clavero; 17 daily Bus companies with local itineraries operating from main terminal • Ciudad de Córdoba @ 4236696 ° Bell Ville via Ferreyra, Toledo, Río Segundo, Pilar, Laguna Larga, Oncativo, James Craik, Villa María, Morrison; 2 daily ° Déan Funes via Guiñazú, Jesús María, Sarmiento, Villa del Totoral, and Villa Tulumba; 2 daily ° La Granja via Argüello, Villa Allende, Aeropuerto Pajas Blancas, Unquillo, Río Ceballos, Salsipuedes, El Manzano, Agua de Oro; 3 daily ° San José de la Dormida via Guiñazú, Jesús María, Sarmiento, Villa del Totoral, Las Peñas, and Simbolar • Contal ° Mina Clavero via Villa Carlos Paz, Copina, and Pampa de Achala ° Mina Clavero via Villa Carlos Paz, Cosquín, La Falda, La Cumbre, Capilla del Monte, Cruz del Eje, Villa de Soto, La Higuera, and Villa Cura Brochero; 2 daily ° Mina Clavero via Villa Carlos Paz, Tanti, Los Gigantes, Las Chacras, Villa Viso, El Mirador, via Villa Cura Brochero; 2 daily

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CÓRDOBA Buses from Córdoba — continued •

Coord. Valle de Punilla ° Cruz del Eje via Villa Carlos Paz, Cosquín, La Falda, Huerta Grande, Villa Giardino, La Cumbre, Cruz Chica, Cruz Grande and Capilla del Monte ° La Cumbre via Argüello, Villa Allende, Unquillo, Río Ceballos, El Cuadrado, and La Falda; 2 daily ° Los Cocos via Argüello, Villa Allende, Pan de Azúcar, Molinari, Valle Hermoso, and La Falda ° San Marcos Sierra via Villa Carlos Paz, Cosquín, La Falda, Huerta Grande, Villa Giardino, La Cumbre, Capilla del Monte, and Camino de las Cornisas ° La Cumbre via Jesús María and Ascochinga; 2 daily ° Bialet Massé via Yocsina, Villa Carlos Paz, and Parque Siquimán • E.P.A. ° Villa Dolores via Villa Carlos Paz, Tanti, Los Gigantes, Taninga, Villa Cura Brochero, Mina Clavero, Nono, Lago La Viña, Los Hornillos, and Villa Las Rosas ° Villa Dolores via Villa Carlos Paz, Villa Icho Cruz, Copina, El Cóndor, Pampa de Achala, La Posta, Villa Cura Brochero, Mina Clavero, Nono, Lago La Viña, Las Rabonas, and Villa las Rosas • La Carlota ° Arías via Pilar, Oncativo, Oliva, and Villa María • La Vitoria @ 4226985 ° Río Tercero via Despeñaderos, San Agustín, and Almafuerte • Los Obreros @ 4227268 ° Río Tercero via Despeñadores, San Agustín, and Almafuerte • T.O.A. ° Anizacate via Alta Gracia ° La Cruz via Despeñaderos, San Agustín, Almafuerte, Embalse, and Centro Nuclear ° La Paisanita via Alta Gracia, Anizacate, La Serranita ° La Serranita via Valle de Calamuchita ° Villa del Dique via Alta Gracia, Anizacate, Villa Ciudad de América, Dique Los Molinos, Villa General Belgrano, Santa Rosa de Calamuchita, and Villa Rumipal ° Villa General Belgrano via Alta Gracia, Anizacate, and Villa Ciudad de América • 20 de Junio ° Mina Clavero via Villa Carlos Paz, Cosquín, La Falda, La Cumbre, Capilla del Monte, Cruz del Eje, Villa de Soto, La Higuera, and Villa Cura Brochero; 2 daily ° Villa Dolores via Villa Carlos Paz, Copina, Pampa de Achala, Mina Clavero, Nono, Lago La Viña, Las Rabonas, Los Hornillos, and Villa Las Rosas ° Villa Dolores via Villa Carlos Paz, Tanti, Los Gigantes, Las Chacras, Taninga, Villa Viso, El Mirador, Los Azulejos, Villa Cura Brochero, Mina Clavero, Nono, Lago La Viña, Los Hornillos, and Villa Las Rosas Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Asunción $55.00 Bariloche $105.00 Buenos Aires $40.00 Caleta Olivia $90.00 Catamarca $20.00 Corrientes $50.00 Formosa $48.40 Gualeguaychú $38.00 Jujuy La Rioja $12.00

Duration 18 hrs 22 hrs 10 hrs 6 hrs 15 hrs 11 hrs 14 hrs

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PAMPA PROVINCES Buses from Córdoba — continued • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Mar del Plata $46.20 Mendoza $35.00 Neuquén $72.00 Paraná $21.00 Paso de los Libres $45.10 Posadas $43.00 Puerto Madryn $72.00 Resistencia $42.90 Río Gallegos $120.00 Rosario $20.00 Salta $54.00 San Juan $25.00 San Luis $19.00 San Martín de los Andes $94.00 Santa Fe $18.00 Santa Rosa (La Pampa) $26.40 Santiago del Estero $20.00 Trelew $78.00 Tucumán $24.50 Zapala $72.70

8 hrs 18 hrs

191 2 hrs 18 hrs 13 hrs 6 hrs 12 hrs 8 hrs 6 hrs 25 hrs 61 2 hrs 10 hrs 61 2 hrs 81 2 hrs 2 weekly

suburb of Cerro de las Rosas near the Circunvalación. It holds 4700 spectators. • Golf: Jockey Club Córdoba Golf, Camino a San Antonio KM 4 @ 4602263/442230/4221193; 9 holes Sport in Villa San Miguel • Golf: San Miguel Golf Club @ 465943

•

•

p Sightseeing

The focal point of the city is Plaza San Martín, with the statue of the “Liberator”, San Martín. Public buildings • The old Cabildo (City Council) building, on the western side of the Plaza, was the center of public life in colonial times and is now the provincial police headquarters. It was built by Juan Manuel López in 1785 during the reign of viceroy Marqués de Sobremonte • Biblioteca de Córdoba, 27 de Abril 375. Completed in 1889. It was seat of the Provincial legislature until 1950 • Teatro del Libertador, Avenida Vélez Sarsfield 351. Built by the Italian Francisco Tamburini in 1891. Contains also the Museo de la Música y el

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Teatro (Museum of Music and Theater) The Universidad Mayor de San Marcos (St Mark’s University), also called “Colegio Máximo”, is located next to La Compañía in Trejo 242. It was administered by the Jesuits from 1600 until their expulsion in 1767 La Casa del Obispo Mercadillo (Home of Bishop Mercadillo), Rosario de Santa Fe 39. This is the remainder of the building which was the home of Bishop Mercadillo when he relocated the bishopric from Tucumán to Córdoba in 1698. The most outstanding piece is the balcony which is made from hammered steel Casa Matriz del Banco de la Provincia de Córdoba, San Jerónimo 166. Built by the Italian Francisco Tamburini in 1889 as headquarters for the bank. Now it serves as a museum and exhibition center Jardín Zoológico (Zoo), in Parque Sarmiento, has a reptile house and a small waterfall Observatorio Astronómico de Córdoba (Córdoba Astronomical

CÓRDOBA the founders. San Francisco Solano and Fray Mamerto Esquiú spent some time here • Iglesia del Pilar (Church of the Pillar), corner of Avenida Olmos and Avenida Maipú. This was the seat of the Order of the Santa Hermandad which assisted those who were condemned to death. The most famous members were Déan Funes and governor Marqués de Sobremonte • Monasterio de Santa Catalina (St Catherine’s Convent), corner of Obispo Trejo and Déan Funes. Founded in 1613 by Bishop Trejo • Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón (Church of the Sacred Heart), corner of Buenos Aires and Yrigoyen. The neo-gothic church was built in 1933 and is worth a visit • Cripta, Avenida Colón near Rivera Indarte. Discovered in 1989, this was the Jesuit noviciado Museums • Museo Casa del Virrey Sobremonte (Museum and Home of Viceroy Sobremonte), Calle Rosario de Santa Fe 218 (corner of Ituzaingó), east of the central Plaza. It may well be considered the most beautiful colonial house remaining in Córdoba. Built by Don José Rodríguez around 1750 it was the viceregal home of the Marqués de Sobremonte until 1796, and now houses the Museo Provincial de Historia Marqués de Sobremonte (Marquise of Sobremonte Provincial History Museum). On exhibit are historical documents, medieval weapons, and furniture. Open Tues–Fri 08:30–13:00, 15:00–19:30, and Sat and Sun 09:00–12:00 • Museo de Ciencias Naturales “B Mitre” (B Mitre Natural Sciences Museum), Avenida Yrigoyen 115 is open Mon–Fri 08:30–12:30 and 14:30–18:30 and Sat and Sun 09:00–12:00 • Museo Mineralógico (Mineralogy Museum): There is a very interesting and well laid out museum of mineralogy at the Universidad de Ciencias Exactas (University of Physical Sciences) • Museo Provincial de Belles Artes “Emilio Caraffa” (Emilio Caraffa

Observatory), south end of Calle General Artigas Churches Churches are open in the mornings and after 16:00 in the afternoon. • La Catedral (Cathedral), on the Plaza, was begun in 1697 and consecrated in 1782. It is the most important example of colonial architecture in Córdoba. It is in the baroque style but shows strong Indian influences which makes it unique in the Americas. The paintings inside are by Octavio Pinto, Emilio Caraffa, and Genaro Pérez, and on the portico there is a noteworthy wrought-iron trellis depicting angels blowing trumpets. The Cathedral is the resting place of Generals Paz and Déan Funes and the chapel of the Virgen de Nieva is the resting place of Fray Mamerto Esquiú, one of the apostles of America • Iglesia y Convento de Santa Teresa (Church and Convent of Santa Teresa), Calle Independencia 122, between Caseros and 27 de Abril. It was founded in 1628 by Juan de Tejeda, the first native Argentine poet, and now houses the Museo de Arte Religioso (Museum of Religious Art). It has a beautiful doorway built in 1770 • Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús (Jesuit Church), Calle Trejo 242 near of Caseros, dates from about 1650. Paraguayan cedar was used to construct the vault and the cupola • Basílica de Santo Domingo, corner of Avenida Vélez Sarsfield and Déan Funes • Basílica de la Merced (Church of Mercy), north of Plaza San Martín on the corner of Calle Rivadavia and 25 de Mayo. Building began in 1600 and was completed in 1826. The old colonial pulpit is well worth seeing. • Capilla San Roque (St Roque’s Chapel), corner of Calle Obispo Salguero and San Jerónimo. This chapel has strong reinforced walls on the outside • Iglesia San Francisco (St Francis’ Church), corner of Plazoleta Buenos Aires and Entre Ríos. It was built between 1795 and 1813. In the vicinity are the graves of the descendants of 274

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PAMPA PROVINCES •

Provincial Fine Arts Museum), the theatre and the Olmos school are near the Plaza Vélez Sarsfield Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes “Genaro Pérez” (Genaro Pérez Municipal Fine Arts Museum), Avenida General Paz 33. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–13:00

• •

s Excursions Tour operators • Excursiones Calamuchita, Tucumán 227 @ 4238256 fax 4214381 • Grupo Atrevete, Agustín 230 844284 fax 4258078; ecotourism, trekking. Contact: Sr. Ricardo Santiago Sarnago • Tincunaco, Fructuoso Rivera 145 Dpto 1; @ 44215173. Contact: Sr. Jorge Lima. Trekking • Trekking Turismo Alternativo, Ave. 24 de Septiembre 1421. Contact: Sr.Santiago Valinotti @ 4685193/4515756. Horse-riding, trekking, rafting • Viajes Aeroturis, Olmos 351 @ 4229294 fax 4212777 • Voler Ecole, Gustavo J. J. Lallana @ 4814265 fax 4244377. Parachute gliding from Cerro la Campana near La Calera Excursions • Reserva Recreativa El Diquecito. The 3000 ha (7413 acres) include the Quebrada del Río Suquía from the rivers exit at Lago San Roque to the Diquecito. The area is forested and there are superb vistas just following

•

the road. RP E55 leading from Córdoba to the Punilla forms the border. This area has the oldest hydroelectric plants in Córdoba Province Candonga, Río Ceballos and Salsipuedes; see page 301 and page 306 Dique San Roque: This great dam protects the city from flooding, regulates the flow of the Río Primero, provides drinking water and electrical power, feeds two large irrigation systems, and forms a blue lake ringed by hills which has become a tourist resort Cosquín: A round trip from Córdoba to Cosquín and back again via Cerro Pan de Azúcar and the eastern side of Lago San Roque can be made by public transport in one day. The bus travels through Argüello, Villa Allende, and Villa Alegre, then enters the Cerro Pan de Azúcar pass road which winds through the mountains for 27 km before descending again into the Punilla valley near Cosquín. The highest point, 1250 m, is reached near Cerro Pan de Azúcar (Cosquín is at about 1000 m). The return to Córdoba can be made on a La Calera bus directly via Bialet Massé and Calera along the eastern side of Lago San Roque following the Río Primero, which starts at the dam. Alternatively you could go via Villa Carlos Paz; see Buses above. See also Cosquín below

COSQUÍN

Cosquín Population: 17 500 Postal code: 5166 @ area code: (03541) Altitude: 720 m Distance from Córdoba: 63 km north-west

C

osquín is located in the Punilla valley at the foot of the Cerro Pan de Azúcar (1260 m). There are easy walks in the beautiful surroundings. Cosquín is much frequented by Argentine tourists. The center of town is Plaza

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CÓRDOBA C Accommodation in Cosquín Hotels *** *** * * * * * * * *

Gran Sierras, San Martín 733 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY La Puerta del Sol, Buenos Aires 820 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 452046 Alexmar, San Martín 602 near Catamarca AELPV Carlitos, Juan B Justo 438 AELPV El Lago, Avenida General Paz AELPV Fax 4228051 Folklore, F Sánchez 688 AELPV Ideal, Buenos Aires 1159 AELPV Menorca, A Sabattini 662 AELPV Puerto de Cádiz, San Martín 148 AELPV San Gregori, San Martín 1456 AELPV

Hosterías * * *

Del Valle, San Martín 340 Mary, Obispo Oro 545 Pardo, San Martín 1469

AELPV AELPV AELPV

@ @

452261 451626

$F $D

2 2

@ @

451322 451165

$G $G

2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @

451542 452081 453043 451125 451299 452188

$G $G $G $F $G $G

2 2 2 2 2 2

@ @ @

452802 452095 452055

$G $G $G

2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @

453062 451222 452681 451473 452255 451306

$H

2

$H $H $H

2 2 2

@ @ @

451306 451114 451311

$H $G $G

2 2 2

Residenciales

A Ale, Tucumán 809 LP A Cerros Dorados, Avenida San Martín near San Luis LP A Cosquín, Tucumán 692 A El Remanso, General Paz 38 EFLP A Estelita, Catamarca 120 EFLP A Italia, Ternengo near Vertiz EFLP A La Casona, Pedro Ortiz 740 LP A La Serrana, Ortiz 740 LP Near bus station; shared bathroom cheaper A Palermo, San Martín 440 ELP A Petit Hotel, Sabattini 739 LP

Próspero Molina, the venue for the Fiesta Nacional del Folklore and Festival a Todo Tango.

A Festivals

E Eating out

A folk festival is held during the last half of January.

Restaurants • Il Nonno, Salta near Tucumán • La Puerta del Sol, Presidente. Perón 820 • Raffaello, Avenida San Martín 730. Pizzería • Saint Jean, Avenida San Martín 200. Parrilla • San Marino, San Martín 715. Parrilla Cafeterías • Eros, Avenida San Martín 885. Dancing • Munich, Avenida San Martín near Sarmiento. Dancing • Nueva Confitería Réal, Presidente Perón 880

B Tourist information • •

Secretaría de Turismo, Tucumán near Sarmiento @ 452333 Información Turística, San Martín 560 @ 451105

D Camping • •

Caravana, López y Planes AFLT in a forested area; capacity 60 tents Río Cosquín, on the Pan de Azúcar Road on the banks of the river in a forested area AFL capacity 100 tents

276

Cosquín

PAMPA PROVINCES • •

•

Revien’s, Avenida San Martín 845. Dancing Via Veneto, block 800 near Dr. J.C. Jerónimo

T Trains

I Post and telegraph • •

The tourist train “Tren de las Sierras” goes to Córdoba and to Cruz del Eje.

Post office: Correo Argentino, Tucumán near Catamarca Telephone: Telecom Argentina, Obispo Bustos 570

U Motoring

• •

L Financial •

Banco de la Provincia de Córdoba, Presidente Perón 701

A.C.A., Avenida San Martín 1355 Service station: Esso, San Martín near Corrientes

p Sightseeing

•

M Services and facilities •

T.A. Chevallier runs services to long distance destinations. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267

Laundromat: Laverap, Buenos Aires 385

S Buses

Most buses to Córdoba go via Villa Carlos Paz taking the road on the western side of Lago San Roque (RN 20), but some turn east at Bialet Massé and follow the eastern side of Lago San Roque, passing by the dam and following the Río Primero. • ABLO, Perón @ 451294 • CACORBA @ 459570 • Contal, Coord. Valle de Punilla, Costera Criolla Pampa de Achala and 20 de Junio run at least 10 services daily to and from Córdoba and to destinations in the Punilla

Iglesia Nuestra Señora del Rosario, San Martín on Plaza Próspero Molina. The building dates from the late nineteenth century. Inside is a baptismal font made by local Indians. The altar dates from the eighteenth century

s Excursions

•

•

Cerro Pan de Azúcar: From here you get a good view over the Punilla valley. Buses run 09:30–16:30; take the chair lift or walk for two hours to the top Capilla San José (St Joseph’s Chapel): 13 km east, on the road to Tanti. Built in 1670

CRUZ DEL EJE

Cruz del Eje Postal code: 5280 @ area code: (03549) Altitude: 476 m Distance from Córdoba: 151 km north-west on RN 38

C

ruz del Eje is located in the north-western part of the province. It is the center of an olive-growing area, with more than a million olive trees in the vicinity. Cotton and grapes are also grown. During the summer vacation the nearby artificial lake Embalse Cruz del Eje attracts many tourists for water sports and pejerrey fishing. The drive to Cruz del Eje from Córdoba through the Sierras de Córdoba is very scenic.

Cruz del Eje

Alternatively take the tourist train “Tren de las Sierras” from Córdoba.

277

CÓRDOBA A Festivals •

daily to and from Córdoba and in the Punilla; T.A. Chevallier has long distance services. See also Buses from Córdoba on page 267

Fiesta Nacional del Olivo (National Olive Festival): Second week in February

U Motoring

B Tourist information •

•

Secretaría Municipal de Turismo

C Accommodation

a Sport

Hotel España, Alsina 115 near Caseros AEFGHLMPTUVY @ 422702 $G 2. Fax 4228051 A Residencial Centro, Echenique 80 LP @ 423161

*

There are fishing and aquatic sports at Cruz del Eje dam, 5 km outside town. The dam is 3 km long. Around the lake many sports and fishing clubs have created facilities.

Accommodation outside Cruz del Eje ** Motel Posta de las Carretas, R Moyano near Echenique AEFGJLPUV @ 422517 $G 2. Fax 4228051

s Excursions

Cruz del Eje is a good starting point for excursions into the northern Sierras de Córdoba, to Capilla del Monte. There are frequent bus services. • La Cumbre: RN 38 initially ascends gently towards the Sierras Chicas, reaching 949 m at Capilla del Monte. Cerro Uritorco (1950 m), the highest mountain of the Sierras Chicas, comes into view in the east. In the west is the Sierra de Cuniputo, slightly lower, with its highest peak Cerro Pencales at 1300 m. See also La Cumbre on page 283

E Eating out •

Restaurant El Cordón, Sarmiento. Parrilla

M Services and facilities •

Service station: A.C.A., corner of Rivadavia and Sarmiento

Laundromat: Laverap, Alvear 321

S Buses

There is a central bus terminal. • ABLO, J. Hernández 72 @ 423399 • La Calera, J. Hernández 72 @ 424075 and Coord. Valle de Punilla, Pampa de Achala have at least 10 services

DÉAN FUNES

Déan Funes Postal code: 5200 @ area code: (03521) Altitude: 690 m Distance from Córdoba: 124 km north on RN 9 and RN 60

D

éan Funes is located in the north-western part of the province on the main road to Catamarca (RN 60). Fifty kilometers further north the huge Salinas Grandes begin. The original name during the Spanish colonial period was Posta de los Algarrobos, a staging post on the Camino Real.

B Tourist information

• •

E Eating out

•

•

•

Oficina de Turismo, Santa Fe 179 @ 420967 fax 420921

Comedor Miguelito, Italia 66 Cafetería Terminal. Open 24 hours

I Post and telegraph

Restaurant La Cartuja, Rivadavia

278

Post office: Correo Argentino, corner of Sáenz Peña and Rivadavia

Déan Funes

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Déan Funes Hotels ** *

San Jorge, España 88 near Buenos Aires Open December–March AEFGJLPUV Bonaro, Rivadavia 171 AELPV

@ @

421174 420883

$F

2

@ @ @

421477 421135 421477

$H

2

$H

2

@

420223

$H

2

Residenciales

A El Chino, Mitre 295 near Santa Fe 444 opposite rail station EFLP A Martínez, Santa Fe 430 EFLP A San Martín, 25 de Mayo 310, on Plaza San Martín LP A Santa Fe (Levis), Santa Fe 291 near Italia Shared bathroom cheaper LP

•

•

Telephone: Telecom, corner of Cabrera and Rivadavia, on the Plaza San Martín

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Cabrera. • Ciudad de Córdoba runs daily local services to and from Córdoba • CACORBA and T.A. Chevallier run local and long-distance services • Empresa Robledo runs daily services to Catamarca (6 hrs). For details see Buses from Córdoba on page 267

U Motoring

•

RP 16 passes over the Punilla on its way to the junction with RN 9 at San José de la Dormida. Once the highest point is reached it is fairly flat country until Villa Tulumba, where the road descends again. Service stations • A.C.A., corner of Rivadavia and Sarmiento • Esso, corner of 9 de Julio and Italia (on the Plaza) • Y.P.F., corner of Rivadavia and Sáenz Peña

T Trains

The station is on Mitre opposite Santa Fe. Here the tourist train from Córdoba terminates.

s Excursions •

Cruz del Eje: RP 16 skirts the spurs of the Sierras de Córdoba on the southern side, staying in flat country throughout. To the north are the Salinas Grandes

Déan Funes

279

Villa Tulumba is a little forgotten colonial town some 20 km west on RP 16. On the way you pass Inti Huasi the site of archeological discoveries. It is possible to use local transport which continues past Tulumba to San José de la Durmida on RN 9 the main highway to Santiago del Estero. From San José de la Dormida you can go by bus to Santa Elena, the turnoff to the important archeological site of Cerro Colorado. Note: On my last trip there I walked it from the main highway to Cerro Colorado and back The triangle formed by Cruz del Eje in the west, Villa del Totoral in the east and Dean Funes in the north is one of the least accessible areas in the Punilla. It not only incorporates a mountainous area with rivers cascading through the valleys but also desert landscapes: RP 16 from Cruz del Eje to Déan Funes skirts the mountains and goes through edges of the Salinas Grandes. Many rivers cascading down the western slopes disappear long before they reach the actual salina. It certainly does not help the natural flow of the waters that many rivers such as the Río Cruz del Eje are dammed to preserve the precious water. The area was settled by the Comechingones tribes before the arrival of the Spanish. There are archeological sites near Chuña, halfway between Cruz del Eje and Déan Funes, with no tourist facilities. The best-known archeological site is Ongamira, on the road to Villa del Totoral. Copacabana, hidden in the Río Copacabana valley some 35 km

CÓRDOBA interest to the intrepid if not adventurous traveller who does not mind roughing it a bit; bus services into the hidden valleys are scarce, often only once or twice per week

south of Déan Funes, has a colorful celebration in February in honor of Nuestra Señora de Copacabana. The capilla of Nuestra Señora del Rosario del Valle de Ischelín was built in 1706; Ischilín started out as an indigenous encomienda. This area would be of

EMBALSE

Embalse Population: 6800 Postal code: 5856 @ area code: (03571) Altitude: 440 m Distance from Córdoba: 120 km south on RN 36

E

mbalse is the tourist center of a string of lakes created by the damming of the Río Tercero. Many vacation homes and yachting clubs have sprung up around the lake, which is a good place for fishing, swimming, and sailing. The dams are part of a hydroelectric scheme which supplies electricity to industry in Córdoba and irrigation water for the farms in the lowland. Note that there is a nuclear power plant on the south side of Embalse Río Tercero 10 km north of La Cruz.

S Buses •

s Excursions

•

Colta SACIF, H.Yrigoyen 860 @ 485598.Buses run regularly to Córdoba and Río Cuarto

Ruins of the Jesuit Estancia Santos Ejercicios, founded in 1726. Located on RP 23, 7 km south of Santa Rosa de Calamuchita

C Accommodation in Embalse

Note that many of the hotels listed are only open during the summer holiday season. Hotels * *

Cuatro Ases, Ricardo Balbín 104 near 9 de Julio AELPV La Perla, RP 5 KM 711 AELPV

Hosterías **

Hostal del Lago, Cabo Primero Huinca 95 AEFGJLPUV

Residenciales A A A A A A

Aranda, Avenida Comercial Avenida, H. Yrigoyen 174 Feuz, Juan D. Perón 355 (RP 5) García, General Pistarini 324 Gigena, General Pistarini 274 Villa Par, Juan D. Perón 383

LP LP EFLP LP LP LP

Accommodation in El Pueblito * *

Hotel Pino del Lago, Entre Ríos 1530 AELPSV Hostería Dolard AELPV

Accommodation in Villa Irupé • Hospedaje Irupé

LP

280

@ @

485401 485222

$G $G

2 2

@

485213

@ @ @ @ @ @

485282 485549 485268 485217 485265 485428

$H $G $H $H

2 2 2 2

@ @

485238 485246

$H

2

@

485232

$G

2

Embalse

PAMPA PROVINCES

HUINCA RENANCÓ

Huinca Renancó Postal code: 6270 @ area code: (03336) Distances From Río Cuarto 320 km south on RN 35 • From Realicó (La Pampa province): 26 km north on RN 35 •

H

uinca Renancó is an important east–west north–south road junction at the extreme southern point of the province. To the north of town are extensive swamp areas which is the final destination of the Río Quinto. It is the gateway to La Pampa province.

C Accommodation

A

Hotel Los Vascos, H Yrigoyen 220 AEFGJLPUV @ 442283 $F 2 A Hospedaje Betty, Santa Fe 296 HLP A Hospedaje Petit Colón, A N Aguado 25 ELP @ 442442 $H 2. Shared bathroom cheaper **

Hospedaje San Salvador, RN 35 KM 526 HLP @ 442518 $H 2

S Buses

Buses run regularly to Río Cuarto and Realicó.

JESÚS MARÍA

Jesús María Population: 23 000 Postal code: 5220 @ area code: (03525) Altitude: 530 m Distance from Córdoba: 51 km north on RN 9

J

esús María is situated on the Río Ascochinga on the eastern side of the Sierras Chicas.

In pre-Hispanic time it was an Indian village by the name of Guanuscate. The origin of the modern town was a Jesuit estancia founded in the middle of the seventeenth century; in the former convent building is the Museo Jesuítico. There is good fishing in the streams which come down from the Sierras Chicas. Sinsacate, 4 km north off the main road, was an important staging post on the road to Alto Perú during colonial times. The chapel

Huinca Renancó

and the old inn have been converted into a rural museum. Also described here is the nearby town of Colonia Caroya, which almost merges with Jesús María. This was part of the Jesuit land holding; its Jesuit Chapel has been preserved. Colonia Coroya was colonized by Friulanos from northern Italy from 1878 onwards. The main economic activity centers around grape harvesting. Empresa Ciudad de Córdoba runs direct services to Jesús María taking 20 minutes; from

281

CÓRDOBA E Eating out

there are frequent daily connections to Córdoba. Jesús María is the center of an interesting colonial past: this was the heartland of the Jesuit missionary and “civilizing” activity in Córdoba Province, and many buildings of this great past still remain. It is also on the trail of the former Spanish colonial highway linking Córdoba with Alto Perú.

•

I Post and telegraph

• •

The bus terminal is on Belgrano 590 @ 423900. • Ciudad de Córdoba and Coord. Valle de Punilla run 9 daily services to and from Córdoba • CACORBA besides local services also runs long-distance services. For details see Buses from Córdoba on page 267

•

Festival de Doma y Folklore: First half of January Festivals in Colonia Caroya • Fiesta Provincial de la Vendimia (Provincial Grape Harvest Festival) is held in the second week in March

U Motoring

•

B Tourist information

Oficina de Cultura y Turismo Municipal, San Martín near Olmos @ 420176

Service station: A.C.A., corner of RN 9 and Corrientes

s Excursions

•

C Accommodation

Hotel Rizzi, Tucumán 662 AEFGJLPUV @ 420580 $F 2 * Hotel Napoleón, España 675 AELPV @ 421273 $G 2 • Hospedaje del Plata, Tucumán near Colón EFLP @ 421605 $H 2 Accommodation on RN 9 ** Motel La Cabaña del Tío Juan, KM 754 AEFGJLPUV @ 420563 $F 2 **

•

•

D Camping •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Tucumán 510 Telephone: Telecom, San Ignacio de Loyola 455

S Buses

A Festivals

•

Parrilla El Faro

La Cumbre: Scenic drive or bus trip via Ascochinga. See La Cumbre on page 283 Estancia Santa Catalina: 38 km north. This Jesuit ranch was the most important foundation of the Jesuits in Córdoba province Those interested in colonial history may want to visit the nearby villages and towns of Villa del Totoral, Villa Tulumba and Villa de María del Río Seco which are on the former Camino Real the colonial link to Alto Perú

Municipal Los Nogales, on the road t o A s c o c h i n g a , O p e n D e c e mber–March. Restaurant

LA CARLOTA

La Carlota Postal code: 2670 @ area code: (03584) Altitude: 140 m Distances • from Córdoba: 255 km south on RN 8 • from Río Cuarto: 107 km east

282

La Carlota

PAMPA PROVINCES

L

a Carlota is located at the intersection of RN 8 with RP 4 and RP 50. It is a convenient stopover en route to Córdoba and also has in the vicinity several nature reserves. There are accommodation, restaurants, and gas stations.

C Accommodation

Reserva Natural de Fauna La Felipa, is located 45 km north-west of La Carlota on RP 11, 17 km from Ucacha. This 1300 ha (3212 acre) reserve is a swamp brimming with birdlife. There is a caretaker and camping is permitted. Birdlife includes the cosocoroba stork, black necked swans, and herons.

Accommodation on RN 8 • Hospedaje Avenida, H Yrigoyen 155 @ 420644 $H 2 A Residencial Sur, San Martín 348 LP @ 420123 $G 2 * Hostería El Indio, H Yrigoyen 611 AELPV @ 420147 $G 2 • Motel EG 5, RN 8 KM 501 @ 422243

S Buses

There are 7 daily services to and from Córdoba.

LA CUMBRE

La Cumbre Population: 6800 Postal code: 5178 @ area code: (03548) Altitude: 1141 m Distance from Córdoba: 97 km north-west on RN 38

L

a Cumbre is a major tourist resort in the Punilla valley. There are many excellent hotels and restaurants not only in the town center but also on the outskirts. La Cumbre (The Summit) was aptly named by the engineers which built the railway line from Córdoba to Cruz del Eje: it was the highest point. Many of the English employees remained in La Cumbre building their English-style homes which have become a hallmark of the town. This is a place that retains some very English traditions like five o’clock tea and English tea-houses where they serve scones. The streams coming down from the mountains are well-stocked with trout. On the outskirts of town are lavender plantations. There are baths and an 18-hole golf course. It is

La Cumbre

also a hang-gliding center. La Cumbre has an airstrip. Also described here is the charming little town of Cruz Chica, located three km north of La Cumbre in the Sierras Chicas, at 1067 m. Surrounded by pine forests, there are hotels and residenciales for those who like the quieter side of life. It is a good starting point for hikes in the nearby sierra. It is a favorite holiday resort for the British community in Argentina, with an English boys’ school here. There are frequent municipal buses to La Cumbre and also direct buses to Córdoba.

283

CÓRDOBA B Tourist information

This mountainous area is a hiker’s paradise with an easy walking trail linking La Cumbre with Villa Giardino passing the historic Estancia Cuchi Corral.

•

Oficina de Información Turística, Avenida Caraffa 300 @ 451154

E Eating out Restaurants • El Cacique, Rivadavia 115 • Caraffa, Avenida Caraffa near Rivadavia. Parrilla • La Casona del Toboso, Belgrano 349 • La Recova, 25 de Mayo 177

A Festivals

During February a week-long Semana Musical is held with recitals of classical music and popular music.

C Accommodation in La Cumbre Apart Hotels

• La Due Manor, Belgrano 1100

EFGRSV

Cabañas

• Del Golf, Hernández near J.L. Cabrera • Posada San Andrés, Avenida Benítez near Monteagudo S

Hotels *** ** ** * *

Gran Hotel La Cumbre, Posadas Lima, Moreno 480 near Déan Funes Victoria, Posadas near Moreno La Viña, Avenida Caraffa 80 Los Montes, Juan Benítez

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AELPSV AELPV

Hosterías ** ** ** * * * * * *

La Cartuja, Colón 330 AEFGJLPUV Los Mimbres, Runciman AEFGJLPUV Sunny Dale, Boucherville AEFGJLPUV Casablanca, Tucumán 60 AELPV Norita, López y Planes 140 AELPV Plaza, Entre Ríos 538 AELPV Posada de la Sierra, Benítez near Rouillon AELPV Posada Los Cedros, Ave. Argentina AELPV San Martín, López y Planes 174 AELPV

Residenciales

A El Fortín, Rivadavia near General PazLPS A San Antonio, Avenida Caraffa 449 LP

@

451889

$F

1

@

452008 fax

$D

2

@

451165 fax

$D

4

@ @ @ @ @

451550 451727 fax 451412 451388 451167

$F $F $F $H $G

2 2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

451262 451039 451562 452297 451322 451252 451085 fax 451028 451158

$F $E $F $H $H $F $E $E $G

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

@ @

452173 451338

$H $H

2 2

Accommodation in San Estebán San Estebán is located 9 km north of La Cumbre on RN 38 halfway to Capilla del Monte. A Residencial Lux, Pablo Neruda • Residencial San Estebán, Andrada

EFLP

Accommodation in Cruz Chica

• Apart Hotel Los Almendros, Ave. Bmé Jaime Hotel Zapata AEFGJLPUV * HotelLa Fonda de Cruz Chica, Avenida Bmé. Jaime AELPV * Hotel Reydon AELPV Fax 451910; E-mail: [email protected]; English spoken A Residencial El Alcázar de Sevilla EFLP

**

284

@ @

(03548) 494055 (03548) 494017

@ @

451912 fax 492058

$E $F

2 2

@

451055

$H

2

@ @

451056 451108

$E $F

2 2

La Cumbre

PAMPA PROVINCES RIN

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To Córdoba via Ascochinga

Key to map A C D E I T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecentro La Cumbre Oficina de Información Turística Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 2

Hotel La Viña Hostería Norita

3 4 11 12 14 15 16

Hostería San Martín Hotel Los Montes Hostería La Cartuja Hotel Lima Hotel Victoria Gran Hotel La Cumbre Hostería Los Mimbres

4 Eating out 5 6

Restaurant La Casona del Toboso 9 Restaurant La Recova 10 Cafetería Atardeceres

0 Services

7 Laverap 13 Golf Club La Cumbre

Restaurant Figaro Cafetería Hoyo en Uno

Pizzerías • Figaro, Belgrano 250 • Pizza Luis, Rivadavia 267

La Cumbre

8

Cafeterías • Atardeceres, Colón 320 • El Café del Andén, Avenida Caraffa 340

285

CÓRDOBA • • •

a Sport

El Café de la Recova, 25 de Mayo 185. Tearoom Hoyo en Uno, Belgrano 268 La Gran Aldea, Belgrano near 25 de Mayo. Tearoom

• • •

n Entertainment • •

•

Disco Kokibar, Caraffa 380 Disco Toby’s, Déan Funes and López y Planes

•

Fishing: The trout-fishing season runs November–April Golf: Golf Club La Cumbre, Belgrano @ 451170; 18 holes Hang Gliding: Aladeltismo, Mirador de Cuchi Corral @ 452188 Horse riding: Cachito Silva, Pasaje Beiró @ 451703 Polo: Club de Polo, Aérodomo on the road to Los Troncos @ 451764 Tennis: La Cumbre Tennis Club, Bartolomé Jaime @ 452010

I Post and telegraph

•

•

s Excursions

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, 25 de Mayo 150 near Belgrano Telephone: Telecentro La Cumbre, 25 de Mayo 233

Tour operators • Rancho El Rosendo, Juan XXIII; horse-riding Excursions • Cristo Redentor: 1 km from the town center. This walk goes past the Balneario Municipal up the river bed and finishes at the natural mineral springs (El Chorrito) • Cruz Chica is a residential area. A 7 km walk over a well-paved road brings you via Cruz Grande to Los Cocos. The beautiful wide valley full of summer residences with clusters of trees resembles parkland • Ascochinga: This 42 km drive rises to 1400 m within 4 km. The area is covered with pine and wild cherry trees. A little further on the water cascades from the weir at Dique San Jerónimo. You can fish in the pond. See page 253 • Cuchi Corral: A lookout 8 km west of La Cumbre, where hang-gliders sometimes practice

L Financial •

Banco de la Provincia de Córdoba, López y Planes near 25 de Mayo

M Services and facilities •

Laundromat: Laverap, Belgrano 309 (corner of 25 de Mayo)

S Buses

The bus terminal is on the corner of General Paz and San Martín; it has a restaurant and toilets. • ABLO, Rusnack @ 452001 • Contal, Coord. Valle de Punilla, Costera Criolla, Pampa de Achala, and 20 de Junio run 8 services daily to Córdoba and the Punilla area • T.A. Chevallier besides local services also runs long-distance services • See also Buses from Córdoba on page 267

U Motoring • •

Shell, Avenida Caraffa 242 Y.P.F., 25 de Mayo 236

LA CUMBRECITA

La Cumbrecita Postal code: 5194 @ area code: (03546) Distance from Córdoba: 115 km south-west on RN 36

L

a Cumbrecita is situated in the eastern part of the Sierra de Comechingones on the Río del Medio which flows into Dique Los Molinos dam. It has an alpine appearance and is much frequented by the Ger286

La Cumbrecita

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in La Cumbrecita

Most of the hotels include one or two meals in their rates. Hotels ** ** ** * *

La Cumbrecita AEFGJLPUV E-mail: [email protected] Las Cascadas, Postal Villa General Belgrano AEFGJLPUV Las Verbenas AEFGJLPUV Panorama, Zorrino Alegre AELPV Tilcara AELPV

Hosterías

• Kuhstall • La Trucha

@

481052

$E

2

@ @ @ @

481015 481008 481024 481019

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481925 462070

man and Swiss communities in Argentina. The church in the center of the village lends it a central European appearance. In the vicinity are baths appropriately named Grottensee (Grotto Lake) and Forellensee (Trout Lake). There is a mini golf course.

B Tourist information •

S Buses

There are direct buses from Córdoba (Mercado Sur terminal); most hotels pick up in Villa General Belgrano, 40 km away.

Oficina de Información Turística, Centro Cívico @ 481070 fax

E Eating out • • • • • • •

Cafetería Lisbeth Restaurant Bar Suizo Restaurant El Encuentro Restaurant La Campana. Parrilla Restaurant Mini Bar Restaurant El Paseo Restaurant El Puente

a Sport

There is fishing and hiking in the hills.

s Excursions

•

La Cascada is a 17 m waterfall about half an hour’s walk on a marked path See also Excursions from Villa General Belgrano on page 334.

LA FALDA

La Falda Population: 15 000 Postal code: 5172 @ area code: (03548) Altitude: 933 m Distance from Córdoba: 83 km north-west via Río Ceballos

L

a Falda is located on the slopes of the Sierras Chicas and is the center of the Punilla tourist area. The land on which it stands was originally part of a grant made by Jerónimo Luis de Cabrera to his loyal followers. La Falda was acquired by Dr Juan Bialet Massé in 1847 and gradually increased in size and importance La Falda

until the first procession of the Inmaculada Concepción on December 8, 1868. This day is regarded as 287

CÓRDOBA cross the bridge and take the small trail to the left passing by the dam

the foundation day of the city and celebrated each year with great aplomb. The real boost to the fledgeling town came in 1897 with the construction of Hotel Edén. There are now over seventy hotels, making La Falda one of the largest tourist centers in the Punilla. La Falda has several small museums and an attractive town center. The pure air is one of the attractions of La Falda. From November to February there is some rain. La Falda is a good base for excursions into the surrounding area. Visit the nearby Cerro El Cuadrado (1500 m) and Villa Giardino on the Río San Francisco, with its mill constructed by the Jesuits. Also described here are the townships of Huerta Grande and Villa Giardino, virtually northern suburbs of La Falda with good tourist facilities. These facilities have been incorporated under La Falda where appropriate. Valle Hermoso, 1.5 km south of La Falda, now merges with La Falda. Facilities and sightseeing are included here: altitude 891 m, postal code 5168.

E Eating out Restaurants • El Cristal, San Lorenzo 39 • El Vagón, Avenida Edén 610. Shows • La Posta de Edén, Avenida Edén 568 • Los Amigos, España 384 • Mendieta, Avenida Buenos Aires 70 • Open Night, Avenida Edén 517. Dancing downstairs • Rancho Criollo, Avenida Edén 701. Parrilla Pizzerías • Pizzería Alpi, Avenida Edén 132 Cafeterías • A.C.A., Avenida España near Sarmiento • Bon-Con, Avenida Edén 348 • Fra-Noi, Avenida Edén 570 • Molino de Oro, Avenida Los Eucaliptos • Schmidel, 25 de Mayo 417 • Strauss, Avenida Edén near San Lorenzo Eating out on Laguna de los Patos • Restaurant Salzburgo

n Entertainment

• • •

A Festivals •

I Post and telegraph

Foundation Day: December 8

•

B Tourist information • •

•

Secretaria de Turismo, Avenida España 50 @ 422764 fax 423462 Secretaria de Turismo, bus terminal @ 423186

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Avenida Argentina near 9 de Julio Telephone: Telecom Argentina, Diagonal San Martín 6

L Financial

•

D Camping •

Casino de La Falda, Avenida Sarmiento 351. Open daily 22:00–03:00 Gregor, Avenida Argentina 50. Dancing Las Rosas Disco, Avenida Edén 596

Río Grande, on the beach at Morecabo. Follow Avenida Italia and turn to the right before crossing the bridge. municipal buses; AFL. Open in holiday season only Siete Cascadas, on the beach at Siete Cascadas. Follow Avenida Italia,

Banco de la Nación Argentina, 13 de Diciembre 410

M Services and facilities

• • •

288

Bicycle hire: Casa Irwo, Diagonal San Martín 2120 Horse hire: Hotel Edén, Avenida Edén 1100 “Moto” hire: 9 de Julio 286

La Falda

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in La Falda Hotels

Nor-Tomarza, Avenida Edén 1063 ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$TUVYZ E-mail: [email protected] @ 422004 fax **** Tomaso di Savoia, Avenida Edén 732 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 423383 @ 423013 *** Hostal L’Hirondelle, Avenida Edén 861 @ 422825 fax *** Scala, Ave. Edén 450 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 423072 ** Buonaventura, Avenida Argentina 119 AEFGJLPUV @ 422357 fax ** El Mirador, Sargento Cabral 257 AEFGJLPUV @ 422710 ** Fiumicino, Avenida Edén 735 AEFGJLPUV @ 423065 ** Italia, Avenida Belgrano 420 AEFGJLPUV @ 422017 ** Karun, Avenida Edén 1100 AEFGJLPUV @ 422857 ** La Asturiana, Avenida Edén 835 AEFGJLPUV @ 422923 ** León de Castilla, Ave. Buenos Aires 238 AEFGJLPUV @ 422878 ** Majestic, Capital Federal 149 AEFGJLPUV @ 422117 ** Ollantay, La Plata 236 AEFGJLPUV @ 423141 ** Réal Hotel, L. de la Torre 411 AEFGJLPUV @ 424631 ** Punilla, 9 de Julio 201 near Bahía AEFGJLPUV @ 422121 ** Sorrento, Avenida Argentina 118 AEFGJLPUV @ 423577 fax * Buenos Aires, Ave. Buenos Aires 139 AEFGHLPRUV @ 422534 * El Nogal, Estados Unidos 149 AELPV @ 422477 * Gran Ideal, Avenida General Güemes 297 AELPV @ 422230 * La Falda, Alvear 125 AELPV @ 422583 * Las Violetas, Güemes 124 AELPV @ 421826 * Le Mirage, Güemes 149 AELPV @ 422958 * Llao Llao, Avenida Kennedy 356 AELPV @ 422225 * Los Pinos, Maipú near Kennedy AELPV @ 422353 * Malvinas, Güemes 117 AELPV @ 424478 * Marydor, Avenida Edén 868 AELPV @ 423510 * Matías, Sarmiento 256 AELPV @ 423038 * Mayo, 25 de Mayo 426 AELPV @ 421882 fax * Mi Sueño, Avenida Argentina 157 AELPV @ 422153 * Novelty, Las Heras 208 AELPV @ 422922 * Old Garden, Capital Federal 28 AELPV @ 422842 * Patria, Avenida Patria 147 AELPV @ 422720 * Peloso, Avenida España 242 AELPV @ 423201 * San Remo, Avenida Argentina 105 AELPV @ 424875 * Zurich, Río Negro 311 AELPV @ 422458 • San Jorge, Ave. Patria 249 @ 422448 E-mail: [email protected] ****

Hosterías ** ** ** ** * * *

El Viejo Castaño, Los Aromos AEFGJLPUV Las Piedras, Avenida Güemes AEFGJLPUV Los Andes, Pringles near Maipú AEFGJLPUV Nueva Achalay, Victoria 294 AEFGJLPUV El Paraíso, España 125 AELPV Marina, Güemes 134 AELPV Portal de las Sierras, Bahía Blanca 258 AELPV

Residenciales

A Cedro Azul, Lamadrid 383 LP A Los Cántaros, Avenida Argentina 239 EFLP

La Falda

289

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CÓRDOBA Accommodation in La Falda — continued Accommodation in Huerta Grande ** * *

La Posada del Sol, San Juan 90 Costa Azul, San Martín 2437 El Portal, Avenida San Martín 1744

Residenciales

A San Remo, Provincias Unidas 59

AEFGJLPUV AELPV AELPV

@ @ @

423097 423369 421051

$G $F

2 2

EFGHLNPUV

@

421944

$H

2

Accommodation in Valle Hermoso Valle Hermoso is now virtually a southern suburb of La Falda. There are regular municipal buses linking La Falda, Huerta Grande, and Valle Hermoso. Hotels ** ** * * * *

Hosterías *

Los Abrojos, Goya

Residenciales A A A A A

@

470438

$H

1

@ @ @ @ @

470262 470251 470314 470878 470359

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AELPSV

@

470430

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ELP EFLP EFLP LP FLP

@ @ @

470744 470140 470076

La Castellana, P. Figueroa 354 AEFGJLPSUV Tehuel, General Paz 101 near República Argentina AEFGJLPUV Biondi’s, General Paz 186 AELPV Horizonte, RN 38 AELPV Lucerna, Rodríguez Peña 115 AELPV Santa Rosa, H. Yrigoyen 381 AELPV

Carmencita, R.S. Peña La Primavera, H. Yrigoyen 1001 Norca, Pellegrini Nuevo Venecia, RN 38 KM 779 Santa Elizabeth, RN 38 KM 779

Accommodation in Villa Giardino Villa Giardino is located 5 km north of La Falda, of which it is virtually the northernmost suburb. • Apart Hotel Victoria, Avenida San Martín 476 Hotel Altos de San Pedro, Alto de San Pedro AEFGJLPUV Full pension * Hotel Giardino, Las Flores near Toronjil AEFGHLPRUV • Hotel Vandor, Santa Teresa 933 A Residencial Avenida, RN 38 and Augusto Fassi ELP • Cabaña Los Churumbeles, Armonía

**

S Buses

@

491082

$H

1

@ @ @ @ @

491010 fax 491039 470692 491105 491210

$D $H

2 1

U Motoring

•

The bus terminal is on J.L. de Cabrera. • ABLO, Buenos Aires @ 422466 • CACORBA @ 422032 • Contal, Coord. Valle de Punilla, Pampa de Achala, run 10 services daily to and from Córdoba and the Punilla area • CACORBA, Costera Criolla, T.A. Chevallier have local and long distance services. These companies also serve Huerta Grande, Villa Giardino and Valle Hermoso Refer for details to Buses from Córdoba on page 267

•

Service station: A.C.A., Avenida España near Edén @ 422674 Car hire: Mar-Per-Tur, corner of Sarmiento and Diagonal San Martín @ 421505

p Sightseeing

•

290

Hotel Edén: At the end of Avenida Edén. In its heyday, between 1904 and 1945, the Hotel Edén was a self-sufficient unit with its own farm. Now a monumento histórico provincial there are guided tours. Open daily 09:30–12:00 and 16:00–19:00 La Falda

PAMPA PROVINCES •

Model railway museum at the end of Avenida 25 de Mayo • Capilla del Sagrado Corazón, Avenida Edén near Bulevar Eichhorn. First church built in La Falda • Plaza San Martín Avenida Patria near Cabildo with the Iglesia Santísimo Sacramento Sightseeing in Valle Hermoso • Capilla de San Antonio (St. Anthony’s Chapel), Avenida San Martín. Built in 1735 in colonial style. It contains ancient paintings and wood carvings made by Indians some of which are of Peruvian origin • Museo Municipal Capitán Juan de Zeballos • Cascada de los Helechos and Vaquerías. Waterfalls, swimming and camping

•

s Excursions •

Tour operators • La Falda, G L de Cabrera 206 @ 422740, operates a number of tours, all of which run daily and require a minimum of eight passengers • Aventura Club, 9 de Julio 541 @ 422163, fax 423809; 4WD, hiking Excursions • Huerta Grande (971 m): Small tourist center in the heart of the Punilla; it is a typical mountain village with good fishing and medicinal waters. Many little streams run through forested glens coming down from the mountain; most of them originate in little tarns. Of interest is the Chacra Orgánica El Gozante, a 2.5 km property at the foot of Cerro El Dragón, specialising in medicinal plants. The herb garden can be visited and there are free tours. Local products include different types of honey and goat cheese. Huerta Grande has almost merged with La Falda; it is 31 2 km on RN 38 • Cascadas de Olaen (Olaen Falls) and Capilla de Santa Bárbara (St Barbara’s Chapel), a Jesuit foundation: Start at Avenida Italia and continue along the dirt road towards Pampa de Olaen. Twenty-two km past Fundación San

La Falda

•

291

Roque turn south, then at the signpost saying “Cascadas de Olaen” leave your car and walk 5 km to the waterfall. Alternatively, it is a one-day hike. Marble and limestone are mined here. At the time of the Spanish occupation this area was settled by Sanavirones Comechingones Indians. The waterfall is in a picturesque canyon and forms a small lake; it is a favorite outing for people from the tourist resorts. The Capilla de Santa Bárbara, built in 1747, has a venerated picture of St Bárbara. Nearby are the ruins of a manorial building which belonged to a famous descendant of the founder of Córdoba, Dr Diego de Salguero y Cabrera who was bishop of Córdoba Dique La Falda: A short walk following Avenida Italia on the outskirts of town. This weir dams up the Río Grande de Punillas and provides water for La Falda. Camping Cerro El Cuadrado 1450 m: Follow Avenida Edén to the end and then follow the signs to the left. Estancia El Cuadrado has a cafetería and offers horse rides. Nearby is Estancia El Silencio founded in the eighteenth century. The owner has a collection of colonial furniture, paintings and a collection of butterflies and insects. Guided tours. From the “Balcony of the Clouds” just before the summit you have extensive views over the city and the Punilla valley Reserva Natural Vaquerías: 5 km east of Valle Hermosa at an altitude of 800–1400 m. This nature reserve belongs to the Universidad Nacional de Córdoba, which runs a complejo turístico here. At 400 square kilometers (154 square miles), the reserve covers most of the upper part of Arroyo Vaquerías, which here forms a waterfall. The prevailing moisture in the air has produced a unique plant cover consisting chiefly of ferns and mosses. The most spectacular part is the Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat) with the Casca de los Helechos (Fern Waterfall); it reserve can be reached on foot via a trail

CÓRDOBA

LABOULAYE

Laboulaye Population: 20 000 Postal code: 6120 @ area code: (03385) Distance from Córdoba: 348 km south-east on RN 36, RN 35 and RN 7

L

aboulaye is located in the southern part of the province at the intersection of RN 7 (east–west) and RP 4 (north–south). It is a convenient stopover for travelers en route from Rosario to Córdoba. Also described here is General Levalle, a small country town 43 km west of Laboulaye on RN 7, halfway to Vicuña Mackenna.

Accommodation in General Levalle • Hospedaje Glasgow, Avenida Pellegrini 147 EFLP @ 480176

C Accommodation

Buses run regularly to Buenos Aires, Mendoza, and Córdoba. • Autotransporte San Juan, España 542 @ 428535

** ** **

• • • •

S Buses

Hotel Laboulaye, Independencia 452 near Pasco AEFGJLPUV @ 426412 Hotel Parque, RN 7 KM 490 AEFGJLPTUVY @ 427949 $G 2 Motel Ranquel Maipú, RN 7 KM 489 AEFGJLPUV @ 426066 $H 2 Hotel Victoria Parque, Alvear 10 @ 426756 Hospedaje Mar Azul, Moreno 1 EFLP @ 427159 $I 2 Residencial El Portal, Ave. Independencia 775 @ 425391 Residencial Gran Plaza, Belgrano 39 @ 427990

Lago La Viña

s Excursions

•

Reserva Natural de Fauna Lagunas del Sur y Bañados del Saladillo. Located on RP 4 halfway between La Carlota and Laboulaye. Typical wet pampa area with grassy plains, clusters of trees and several lagunas and wetlands. Camping permitted

LAGO LA VIÑA

T

his artificial lake, also known as Embalse Ingeniero A.M. Allende, is located in the Traslasierra region of Córdoba Province, halfway between the towns of Mina Clavero to the north and Villa Dolores to the south. This fairly large lake has around its shore a number of tourist resorts which I have collected here. The major tourist areas are Nono, Alto del Monte, Las Calles, Las Rabonas and Los Hornillos. Las Rabonas is situated 162 km south-west of Córdoba on the shore of the artificial lake Lago La Viña on the western slope of the Cumbres de Achala. It is well situated for walks

into the mountains and water sports on the lake. In the vicinity is a camping ground; postal code is 5885. Nono is located 147 km south west of Córdoba on the northern

292

Lago La Viña

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation near Lago La Viña Accommodation in Las Rabonas • Hostería Tajamar

Accommodation in Los Hornillos Hostería Alta Montaña Hostería Dos Arroyos * Hostería Von Trapp, Dos Arroyos English and German spoken • Hotel Monte Berico, RN 14

** **

AEFGHLPRUV AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AELPRV

Accommodation in Nono

• Cabañas La Morada, RN14 Hotel El Marqués de Nono, Corrientes AEFGJLPUV * Hotel Gran Nono, Vicente Castro 289 AELPV Tennis courts • Hotel La Gloria, Ave. Los Porteños AEFGL *** Hostería La Lejania ACDEFGJKLPTUVY • Residencial La Viña, Vicente Castro 182 EFLP **

$G

2

@

499009

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2 2

@ @

499079 (3544) 499210

$G

2

@ @

(3544) 498166 498031

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@

498022

@ @

470523 498009

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Accommodation in Paraje Alto del Monte Paraje Alto del Monte is located 2 km east of Nono AELPV EFLP

Hostería Manantial • Residencial Del Alto Also shared bath rooms

*

Accommodation in Las Calles

• Albergue Los Nogales, Estación La Yola LP

S Buses to Lago la Viña

side of the artificial lake Lago La Viña. It is a good base for excursions to the western slopes of the Cumbres de Achala. Las Calles is located 4 km south-east of Nono. Los Hornillos is set in the foothills of the Sierra de Achala 22 km east of Villa Dolores, and is the start of the picturesque Tras la Sierra road to Córdoba.

•

El Petizo, E.P.A., Pampa de Achala, and 20 de Junio run 5 services daily to and from Córdoba. They serve Nono, Los Hornillos, and the small villages in the nearby mountain valleys. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267

p Sightseeing in Nono

•

Museo Rocsen, an archeological and mineralogical museum 5 km from the town center (towards the mountains), is open from 0900 till sunset daily

LOS COCOS

Los Cocos Postal code: 5181 @ area code: (03548) Altitude: 1220 m Distance from Córdoba via Jesús María: 105 km north-west

Los Cocos

293

CÓRDOBA

L

os Cocos is a small village in the northern part of the Sierras Chicas. Although off the beaten track, it is within walking distance of La Cumbre and is a good base for easy walks in the Sierra. Although a small town it has good tourist facilities.

S Buses

There are 20 buses daily to and from Córdoba via La Cumbre.

C Accommodation in Los Cocos Hosterías ** * * *

Hotels ** **

La Esperanza AEFGJLPUV Del Mediterráneo, Los Tulipanes AELPSV Hostal Los Cocos, Avenida Dra Cecila Grierson AELPSV Los Molles, Avenida Dra Cecilia Grierson AELPV Los Pinos, Avenida Cecilia Grierson 1320 AEFGJLPUV Fax 492188 Hotel Walcheren, Las Calas near Pública AEFGJLPRTUV

Cabañas

• El Mirador, Int. Maffassanti

@ @ @ @

492016 492023 fax 492157 492001

$G $H $H $G

2 1 1 2

@

492002

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492049 fax

$H

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@

492250

MARCOS JUÁREZ

Marcos Juárez Postal code: 2580 @ area code: (03472) Altitude: 115 m Distance from Córdoba: 255 km south-east on RN

M

arcos Juárez is located in the wet pampa and is the center of an agricultural district. For those interested in a game of golf there are two nine-hole golf courses: Club A. y B.M. San Martín, RN 9 KM 449 @ 425549; and A. y B.M. Argentino, Belgrano near Calle Pública @ 426556/425436. Rosario in Santa Fe Province is 141 km east. There is accommodation and a gas station.

C Accommodation

A Residencial Esmeralda, 9 de Julio 274 EFLP @ 426565

Hotel El Tropical, RN 9 near Calle 4 AEFGJLPUV @ 426979 $F 2 * Hotel Marcos Juárez, RN 9 KM 445 AELPV @ 425558 $F 2 A Residencial Bali-Cor, RN 9 near Santiago del Estero LP @ 426131 **

S Buses

There are at least 20 daily buses to and from Córdoba and Buenos Aires.

294

Marcos Juárez

PAMPA PROVINCES

MINA CLAVERO

Mina Clavero Postal code: 5889 @ area code: (03544) Altitude: 915 m Distance from Córdoba: 145 km south-west on RN 20

M

ina Clavero is located in the valley to the west of the Sierra Grande and the Pampa de Pocho. Seen from Córdoba city, it is “behind the mountains”, whence the name of the region “Traslasierra”. It is easily accessible from Córdoba and San Luis, and has good tourist facilities, although some of the hotels are not open all year round. It is a good starting point for exploration and hiking in the mountains: Cerro Champaqui, at 2880 m the highest mountain of Córdoba province, is within easy reach of the town.

B Tourist information

In 1573 the first Spanish expedition visited the area to assess the number and location of the indigenous population and to find gold. The expedition was made up of forty soldiers under the command of Capitán Hernán Mejías Miraval. Chroniclers report that the Contonavi Indian village headed by Cacique (or “Chief”) Milac Navira was at the junction of the Río Panaholma and Río Mina Clavero. The present name is a corruption of the chief’s name. From 1598 onwards some mines were worked in the area, and from 1890 there was a small flow of tourists to take advantage of the mineral waters which have similar properties to those of Evian in France. In pre-Hispanic times gold was mined near the indigenous settlement on the Río Panaholma. Some rain falls between December and March. Here I have included Villa Cura Brochero, which is located 3.5 km north of Mina Clavero at an altitude of 945 m. It is also a vacation resort. Facilities are included under the respective sections.

Mina Clavero

•

Secretaría de Turismo, Cultura y Deportes, Avenida Mitre 1191 @ 470241

D Camping

•

Auto camping Dos Ríos, Avenida Merlo, Balneario Los Elefantes; AFL • La Siesta, Avenida Santa Rita; AFL. Open only in tourist season Camping in Villa Cura Brochero Cura Brochero has a number of good camping grounds; the list below is only a selection. • Buen Retiro, Intersection of Avenida Cura Gaucho and Avenida Costanera on the banks of the Río Panaholma @ 470744 AFL. Capacity 70 tents on 2.5 ha (6 acres), also cabañas; open in tourist season • La Selva, Avenida Costanera @ 471015; AFL, capacity 144 tents on 8.5 ha (21 acres), also cabañas; open in tourist season

E Eating out Restaurants • Amadeus, San Martín block 1200 near Belgrano • Bardon Ramón, San Martín block 1000 near Intendente Vila • Don Damian, San Martín 1144 • Don Enrique, San Martín block 1200 near Lugones • El Altillo, San Martín 1076. Parrilla • El Mangrullo, San Martín block 1100 near Intendente Vila. Parrilla 295

CÓRDOBA Key to map A C D E H I $ T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Hospital Secretaría de Turismo Banco de la Provincia de Córdoba Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Hotel Marengo Hostería Los Puentes Hotel Los Alpes Motel Ruta 66 Hostería Costa del Sol Hostería La Posada Hostería La Ideal

9 10 11 13 14 15 16 17 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28

Hotel Palo Verde Hotel Palace Hotel La Rueda Hotel Aguirre Residencial Italia Hostería Sierras Hotel Monti Hotel Paraíso Residencial La Primavera Residencial Nury Hostería Danubio Hotel Mina Clavero Residencial Porteño Hotel Coronado Hostería Champaqui Residencial Franchino Hostería Progreso Hotel La Morenita

•

•

5 Entertainment 8

Casino de la Traslasierra

7 Tour operators and car rental 18 Viajes y Expediciones Barret S.R.L.

Hospital, Fleming 1364 @ 70220

U Motoring Service stations • A.C.A., San Martín block 700 • Esso, Mitre near Santa Ana; also cafeteria

a Sport

• •

Casino de la Traslasierra, Avenida San Martín 785

Fishing: The rivers coming down from the Sierra are well- stocked with trout Golf: Hotel La Quebrada and Hotel Yacanto have nine-hole courses. They are both 15 km from Mina Clavero

s Excursions

Post office: Correo Argentino, Avenida San Martín 711 Telephone: Telecom, Avenida San Martín 1149

See also Excursions from Villa Dolores on page 330. Tour operators in Mina Clavero • Viajes y Expediciones Barret S.R.L., Belgrano 1320 @ 70523 Excursions • Villa Carlos Paz: There is a good new sealed road from Mina Clavero over

L Financial •

12 Restaurant Don Damian

The bus terminal is behind the Municipalidad in Avenida Mitre 1191. • Contal, El Petizo, and Pampa de Achala run 6 services daily to and from Córdoba and the Punilla • T.A.C. and T.A. Chevallier run local and long-distance services. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267

I Post and telegraph •

4 Eating out

S Buses

n Entertainment

•

Residencial Oviedo Residencial Pilla Hotel Ferrari Hotel Villa Mery Hotel Costa Azul Hotel España Hostería Lorelei Hostería Tico Tico

M Services and facilities

El Platerito, San Martín block 1200 near Lugones & • Escalera Real, San Martín block 1100 near Intendente Vila, upstairs • La Casa de Mi Abuela, San Martín block 1200 near Belgrano • La Mezquita, San Martín Norte block 700 near Avenida Costanera • Rincón Suizo, Champaqui 1200. International cuisine Pizzerías • El Capricho, San Martín block 1100 near Vila • El Obrero, San Martín block 1000 near Intendente Vila • Las Brasas, San Martín Norte near Champaqui • Las Palmeras, San Martín block 1200 near Lugones • Rumico, San Martín block 1200 near Lugones •

29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36

Banco de la Provincia de Córdoba, Avenida San Martín 1682

296

Mina Clavero

PAMPA PROVINCES To Cura Brochero

14

e

OLMOS (N)

R ío d

EDISON

4

auc lo s S

J. HERNÁNDEZ

CÓRDOBA

1

LUIS TES SANDORI

AVE. SAN MARTÍN (N)

N

P. PANAHOLMA

3 DE FEBRERO M. GIMENEZ 2

3

SARMIENTO

es 5

6

LUIS TES SANDORI D

AVE. COSTANERA 7

AVE. COSTANERA

STELLA MARIS

10

CHAMAS

8 9

NO CA Plaza San Martín

J.

R CÁ

N Ó AM R

CHAMPAQUI

CURA BROCHERO A

PJE DEL BALNEARIO

MILAC NAVIRA 11

CHAÑAR PAMPA DE POCHO

INTENDENTE VILA

MILAC NAVIRA 12 13

I

E 15

T

C

COLÓN 17

16

14

BELGRANO 18

Ríp Panaholma

L . TORRES NILSON

19

B. URUGUAY

AVE. MITRE

LOS PRADOS

LA PIEDAD

E. MUIÑO

AVE. COSTANERA

R. ANDRÉS RICOE P. LUGONES

OLMOS (S)

ANASTASIA FABRE DE MERLO 22 20

21

25 24 INTENDENTE OVIEDO

PJE. NAHUEL

12 DE OCTUBRE 26

9 DE JULIO 27 28 G. URQUIZA (O)

23

29 31

32

30

G. URQUIZA (E) 33 35

$ 25 DE MAYO

34

FLEMING

MINA CLAVERO

20

BOYERITO DE LA CONCHA

To Córdoba and Villa Dolores

Mina Clavero

297

ZAPIOLA

14

BOLÍVAR

AGUARIBAY

H 36

EL CHACHO

Plazoleta A.F. de Merlo

CÓRDOBA C Accommodation in Mina Clavero

It is advisable to book for stays between December to February. Hotels Rossetti, Avenida Mitre 1340 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Du Soleil, Avenida Mitre near La Piedad AEFGJLPUV ** La Rueda, Avenida San Martín 986 AEFGJLPUV ** Palo Verde, San Martín 780 AEFGJLPSUV * Aguero, 12 de Octubre 1168 AELPV * Aguirre, Avenida San Martín 1166 AELPV * Coronado, Avenida San Martín 1495 AELPV * Costa Azul, Urquiza 1142 AELPV * España, Avenida San Martín 1687 near Fleming AELPV * Ferrari, Intendente Oviedo 1344 AELPV * La Morenita, Urquiza 1145 AELPV * Las Leñas, Enrique Muiño 1028 AELPSV * Los Alpes, Sarmiento 1431 AELPV * Marengo, San Martín 528 AELPV * Milac Navira, San Lorenzo 1407 AELPV * Mina Clavero, Merlo 1320 AELPV * Mirador, Colón 1941 AELPV * Molino Blanco, General Urquiza 1366 AELPV * Monti, Belgrano 1471 AELPV * Palace, Avenida Mitre 847 AELPV * Paraíso, Colón 1584 AELPSV * Villa Mery, Olmos Sud 1524 AELPSV • Colina del Valle, Olmos Sur AEY English spoken

*** **

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

470012 470066 470549 470165 470439 470239 470225 470274 470123 470172 470347 470714 470191 470224 470278 470667 470456 470124 470007 470390 470059 470453

$D $E $F $F $G $G $G $G $G $H $G $G $H $G $H $F $F $E $G $F $G $G

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

@

471177 fax

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

470393 470176 470987 470440 470346 470201 470357 471021 470357 470382 470223

$H $F $H $H $G $G $G $G $H $G $G

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

@

470342

$F

2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

470979 470806 470005 470387 470395 470705 470381 470704

$G $H $H

2 2 2

$H $H $H $H

2 2 2 2

Hosterías ** ** * * * * * * * * *

Champaqui, Intendente Oviedo 1439 AEFGJKLPUV Fax 470910 Tico Tico, Avenida San Martín 1875 AEFGJLPUV Costa del Sol, Avenida San Martín 636 AELPV Danubio “C”, Avenida San Martín 1482 AELPV El Balcón, Colón 1615 AELPSV La Ideal, Avenida San Martín 706 AELPV La Posada, Sarmiento 1394 AELPV Lorelei, Zapiola 1650 AELPSV Los Puentes, Sarmiento 1403 AELPV Progreso, Avenida Mitre 1522 AELPV Sierras, Belgrano 1367 AELPV

Motels *

Ruta 66, Tessandori 1454

AELPV

Residenciales

A Aire y Sol, Rivadavia 551 EFLP Shared bath room cheaper • Buenos Aires, Los Alpes 581 near EdisonEFLP • El Parral, Avenida Intendente Vila 1430 ELP A España, San Martín near Urquiza EFLP A Franchino, Avenida Mitre 1544 EFLP A Italia, San Martín 1176 ELP A La Primavera, Belgrano 1474 EFLP A Las Moras, Urquiza 1353 ELP

298

Mina Clavero

PAMPA PROVINCES Accommodation in Mina Clavero — continued A A A A

Nury, Merlo 1210 Oviedo, San Martín 1500 Pilla, San Martín 1540 Porteño, San Martín 1441

Accommodation in Barrio Santa Ana A Car Mar, Los Valles 1320

EFLP EFLP LP EFLP

@ @ @ @

470271 472019 470092 470235

$G $H $H $G

2 2 2 2

EFLP

@

470693

$H

2

@

(0221) 4842342 $H

2

2 2 2 2 2 2

Accommodation Pampa de Achala Residenciales

&

A Santa María, RP 14 KM 126 AEFLP E-mail: [email protected]

Accommodation in Villa Cura Brochero Villa Cura Brochero is located 3.5 km north of Mina Clavero. ** * * * * *

AEFGJLPUV AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV

@ @ @

470617 470651 470485

@ @

470493 470816

$G $H $H $G $H $G

Aluminé, Poeta Aguero 483 Altas Cumbres, J.M. de Rosas Casanova, General Paz 125 El Algarrobo, Juan Aguirre El Aromo, Ave. Mina Clavero 147

EFGLP GLP ELP EFGLP GLP

@ @ @ @ @

470733 470132 470196 470582 470852

$G $H $H $G $H

2 2 2 2 2

Los Robles, Avenida Belgrano 854

AELPV

@

470042

$G

2

De la Villa, Mina Clavero 225 Arture, Ave. Costanera Cura Brochero, Tucumán 162 Del Angel, Belgrano 937 Las Marías, RP 14 #55 Los Cántaros, Juan Bustos

Residenciales A A A A A

Hotels *

• •

•

There are many beaches with camping grounds along Río de los Sauces Archeological sites There are several archeological sites in the area bearing witness to the pre-Colombian culture of the Comechingones, most of which are within walking distance of Mina Clavero. • Panaholma site is on the track to Las Maravillas, 5 km north of Villa Cura Brochero • Campitos site is 3 km south of Mina Clavero at the far end of the local airstrip on the property of the Charras family • Cañada Larga site, 1 km east of the Campitos site: Here is a small cave with rock paintings where potsherds and stone mortars have been found

the Sierra Grande. At La Posta there is a new hotel. There are magnificent vistas on this scenic drive with occasional glimpses of Lago San Roque from El Condor onwards. Although there is snow in winter the road is kept open. See also Excursions from Villa Carlos Paz on page 324 Museo Rocsen (archeological and mineralogical museum) in Nono, 8 km south El Cóndor: The highest point in the Pampa de Achala with a view to Lago San Roque. There is a restaurant at El Cóndor but no accommodation. An 18 km hike north-west takes you to the Franciscan Colegio Padre Marialiquens set against the Sierra Grande with views to Cerro Los Gigantes (2374 m)

Mina Clavero

299

CÓRDOBA

MIRAMAR

Miramar Postal code: 5143 @ area code: (03563) Distance from Córdoba: 191 km north-east on RN 19 and RP 3

M

iramar is on the southern shore of Laguna Mar Chiquita. It is a very popular resort during the summer months. Laguna Mar Chiquita has no outlet, and is very swampy in the north where the Río Dulce enters.

s Excursions

The salt waters of Miramar are used in the treatment of rheumatic ailments and skin diseases.

•

S Buses •

Empresa Miramar/BASA:6 services daily to and from Córdoba. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267

U Motoring

Miramar is best reached by road from Córdoba.

Reserva Natural Bañados del Río Dulce y Laguna Mar Chiquita: It incorporates within its 600 000 ha (1,482 616 acres) the whole of Mar Chiquita, its tributaries and the swamps and marshlands around it. This nature reserve is the home of black-necked swans and herons, and is an important stopover for migratory birds. Contact the guardaparque in Mirmar. Access is via RP 17

C Accommodation in Miramar Complejos turísticos

• Las Vegas, Buenos Aires

Hotels

• Miramar, Buenos aires 200

Hosterías **

Portal del Mar, RP 3

Residenciales A A A A A A A A A

Bárbero, Córdoba 240 Brasilia, Córdoba 263 Ethel, H Yrigoyen 358 Mabel, J.B. Justo 157 Marchetti, Córdoba Merlino, Rivadavia near H. Yrigoyen Novero, Rivadavia 287 Savoy, San Martín 16 Susy, Belgrano 50

AFP 10 cabañas; also camping AEFGHRTY

@

493000

AEFGJLPUV

@

493051

$G

2

EFLP EFLP LP LP LP LP LP EFLP LP

@

493009

@ @ @

493086 493152 493143

@ @

$H $H $H $H $I $H $H

2 1 2 3 2 2 2

493048 493154

$G

3

Accommodation in Balnearia Balnearia is located 6 km south of Miramar. • Hospedaje Torino, Ave. Libertad 2

300

Miramar

PAMPA PROVINCES

RESERVA CULTURAL NATURAL CERRO COLORADO Reserva Cerro Colorado Altitude: 700 m Distance from Córdoba: 160 km north on RN 9

T

his reserve at Cerro Colorado has the most accessible rock paintings in the area; here there are more than 30 000 rock paintings of the Comechingones Indians and earlier tribes. The small museum organized by the caretaker contains rock and mineral samples of the area, spearheads, fossilized wood, and semi-precious stones found in the mountains. The caretaker also acts as a tourist guide.

E Eating out

In order to get to the hill containing the rock paintings after which the town is named you must ford a river—or if it is swollen you cross over a hanging bridge. Many tourist buses visit, especially on weekends. Reserva Cultural Natural Cerro Colorado is 10 km west of RN 9. The turnoff is at Santa Elena.

Food is available in the local comedors and shops.

S Buses

There are three bus services per week to and from Córdoba, from Mercado Sur; for further inquiries ring @ 4255533. The 11 km walk from Santa Elena (to which buses run frequently along RN 9) can be done in two hours, but at one stage you have to wade through a knee-deep fast-flowing river, depending on the season. The site may be best visited using a tour operator.

C Accommodation

Cheap but limited accommodation and camping are available in the Parque Arqueológico Reserva Cultural Natural Cerro Colorado.

RÍO CEBALLOS

Río Ceballos Population: 13 500 Postal code: 5111 @ area code: (03543) Altitude: 679 m Distance from Córdoba: 33 km north on RP 56

R

ío Ceballos is located in a valley on the eastern slopes of the Sierras Chicas and is a favorite vacation resort with Argentines. In pre-Hispanic times this was the home of the Comechingones Indians. The trail over the Sierras Chicas is one of the oldest Spanish roads. The area was also for a long period part of the Jesuit domain. There is a scenic drive to La Falda across the sierra. Of interest are the nearby Cascada de los Cóndores and Cascada de los Hornillos.

Reserva Cerro Colorado

301

CÓRDOBA B Tourist information

Córdoba; T.A. Chevallier has local and long-distance services. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267

D Camping

s Excursions

•

•

Secretaría de Turismo, Avenida San Martín 4400

La Quebrada, Avenida San Martín 6489, 5 km east of town on the artificial lake of the same name AFL; boat hire

Tour operators • Pax Viajes Academicos, J.A. Cabrera 182 @4922127 fax 4953475; Sr. Rodolfo Roldán Excursions • Reserva Hídrica Natural La Quebrada: 7 km west. Measures 4200 ha (10 378 acres) and includes several waterfalls like Cascada de Los Hornillos and Salto de la Estancia. The lake is used for sailing. Services include a permanent park ranger and camping facilities

E Eating out •

Cafetería Faquie, Avenida San Martín 4526. Video bar

S Buses • •

El Triunfo, Acuña 317 @ 429333 General Urquiza and ABLO, Lestache 132 @ 453399 • La Quebrada SRL, San Martín @ 451061 Ciudad de Córdoba, Coord. Valle de Punilla; daily 6 buses to and from

C Accommodation in Río Ceballos Hotels ** * * * * * *

San Pedro, San Martín 3637 California, San Martín 7888 Chalad, San Martín 4341 Los Algarrobos, San Martín 5403 Namuncurá, 3 de Febrero 38 Rama, Almte. Brown 414 Supe Río, Charcas 73

Hosterías * *

Los Mirlos, San Martín El Sidi, Almte. Brown 273

Residenciales A A A A A A A A A A A

Amedon Río, Sarmiento 776 Americano, San Martín 6302 Catalunya, Ameghino 59 Danubio Azul, Rivadavia 1020 Del Molino, Perú 281 Irupe, Atahualpa Yupanqui 64 Italiana, Rivadavia 1058 La Ribera, Rivadavia 1310 Las Tias, San Martín 4564 Los Pinos, San Martín 5940 Muñiz, San Martín near Belgrano

AEFGJLPUV AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV AEHLPV AELPV

@ @ @ @ @ @ @

451305 451285 451008 451026 451391 451028 451579

$G $H $H $G $G $H $H

1 2 2 2 2 2 2

AELPV AELPV

@

451778

$H $G

2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @

451124 451618 451699 451150 453091 453688 451155

$H $H $H

2 2 2

@ @ @

451088 451789 451492

$H $H $H $H $H $G $H

2 2 2 2 2 2 2

@

4951026

$G

2

EFLP EFLP EFLP EFLP EFLP EFLP EFLP LP LP EFLP EFLP

Accommodation in Villa Los Altos Hotels *

Are Kepay, Los Nogales Lote 11 Manzana 11 AELPV

302

Río Ceballos

PAMPA PROVINCES

RÍO CUARTO

Río Cuarto Population: 140 000 Postal code: 5800 @ area code: (0358) Altitude: 440 m Distance from Córdoba: 212 km south on RN 36

R

ío Cuarto is situated on the river of the same name. It is a modern city with wide avenues and many parks and plazas. It is the center of an agricultural area, and has a university and a golf club. Río Cuarto is a good stopover point on the route between Buenos Aires and Mendoza. Also included here are the towns of Achiras, Alpa Corral, General Cabrera, General Deheza, and Sampacho. Achiras is located 70 km west of Río Cuarto on RP 01 in the south-eastern part of the Sierra de Comechingones. Altitude is 845 m. Hiking in the nearby mountains is popular. The Oficina Municipal de Turismo is on Sarmiento near Córdoba @ 95019/236; postal code is 5833 and @ area code is (0582). On the banks of the Río Achiras is a municipal camping ground with hot showers, restaurant, electricity, but it is only open December–February. Regular daily buses run to Río Cuarto. Alpa Corral is 70 km northwest in the foothills of the Sierra de Comechingones; at an altitude of 750 m; it is a popular hiking area. There is an Oficina Municipal de Turismo @/fax (0358) 488008/9. Regular daily buses runto Río Cuarto, first on RN 36 then RP 11. The postal code is 5801 and @ area code is (0358). General Cabrera is 58 km north of Río Cuarto on RN 158 halfway to Villa Maria on RN 158. General Deheza is 65 km north, halfway to Villa María on RN 158.

Río Cuarto

Sampacho is 46 km west at the intersection of RN 8 and RP 24. Population is approximately 6000; postal code 5829, @ area code (03582).

B Tourist information

•

Dirección de Turismo y Recreación, Pasaje Cabildo de la Concepción 650 @ 4671127

E Eating out Restaurants • El Fogón, Alvear 740. Parrilla • El Lazo, Mitre 1055 • El Palacio del Buen Comer, Colón 42 • Itrabo, Avenida España 61 • La Cantina del Turco, General Paz 519. Italian cuisine • La Estancia, Mitre 1050. Parrilla • Rigoletto, 25 de Mayo 55. Italian cuisine • Ristorante L’Angelo, Colón 261. Italian cuisine • Soco Soco, Buenos Aires 162 • Tres Escalones, Colón 161 Pizzerías • Costa Azul, Cabrera near Marconi • Rivadavia, Rivadavia 345 Cafeterías • Abraxas, Bulevar Roca 941 • Intervalo, Buenos Aires 55 • Verona, H. Yrigoyen 1015 • La Terminal, Avenida España 116 Eating out on RN 8 • Comedor Y.P.F., KM 613 Eating out on RN 36 • Parador Don Pedro, KM 1

303

CÓRDOBA C Accommodation in Río Cuarto Hotels **** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * *

Opera, 25 de Mayo 55 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 4640400; E-mail: [email protected] @ Gran Hotel Río Cuarto, Sobremonte 725 E-mail: [email protected] ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Menossi, Avenida España 41 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 4640840 @ Cariel, Buenos Aires 364 AEFGJLPUV @ City, Lamadrid 701 AEFGJLPUV @ Interlac, Maipú 130 AEFGJLPUV @ Lanín, Alonso 162 AEFGJLPUV @ Libertador, Avenida España 85 AEFGJLPUV @ San Carlos, Urquiza 48 AEFGJLPSUV @ Cristal, Constitución 544 AELPV @ Río Palace, Avenida España 314 AELPV @ Venecia, Bolívar 28 AELPV @

4634390

$E

2

4633401 fax

$F

2

4644151/2 4645963/4 4625322 4626089 fax 4643255 4635352 4621683 4624778 4642134 4625593

$F $G $G

2 2 2

$H $G $G $G $F $G

2 2 2 2 2 2

$H $H

2 2

$I $H

2 2

Residenciales

A Alihué, Vélez Sarsfield 71 LP A Don Pedro, Ave. Italia 1241 EFLP A El Ciervo, Sobremonte 123 LP Near bus terminal A El Padrino, Pedernera 637 LP A Monge, Sobremonte 178 LP Also shared bath rooms; near bus terminal A Nogaró, Alsina 870 EFLP A Royal Hotel, Avenida General Roca 898 ELP

Accommodation on RN 8 Hotels *

Sol, KM 607

AELPV

@

4621883

@

4635095

$H $H

2 2

@

4623582

$G

2

@

4621885

$G

2

@

495076

@

495158

$H $H $H

2 2 2

$G $G

2 2

Accommodation in Achiras @ area code: (03582)

A Hospedaje Gracielita, San Martín 344/358 HL A Hospedaje Victoria, 24 de Setiembre 53 EFLP A Residencial Hostal de las Sierras, 24 de Setiembre 530 EFLP

Accommodation in Alpa Corral @ area code: (0358)

• Hotel Nilpe @ 488013 • Posada Ayelen @ 488029 A Residencial Don Alberto, Julio A. Roca near Gobernador J. Borda Shared bath room cheaper EFLP @ 488043 A Residencial El Puente, EFLP @ 488118 * Hostería Peumayen, Carlos Glymes AELPV @ 488086

Accommodation in General Cabrera @ area code: (0358)

Hotel Gilena, La Rioja 845 AELPV • Residencial Lucho, Avenida Belgrano 621

*

304

@

4930457

Río Cuarto

PAMPA PROVINCES Accommodation in Río Cuarto — continued Accommodation in General Deheza @ area code: (0358) Hotel Posada del Larriego, Juan Pablo II 1100 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY • Hotel Parai Maru, Juan Pablo II

***

@ @

4950096 4950541

$G

2

$H

2

Accommodation in Sampacho

• Hospedaje San Fernando, RN 8 near 9 de Julio EFLP

n Entertainment • •

Car rental • A1 Rent a Car, Constitución 912 @ 4624919 • Localiza, Sabattini 2539 @ 646310

Calatrava, General Paz 733. Disco New Gibbon’s, Sobremonte 575. Bar

I Post and telegraph •

a Sport

Post office: Correo Argentino, Plaza General Roca

• •

L Financial •

Banco de la Nación, Sobremonte near Rivadavia

•

M Services and facilities •

Laundromat: Laverap, Déan Funes 142

s Excursions

The south-eastern part of the largely unknown Sierra de Comechingones is accessible from Río Cuarto. Places to visit are Alpa Corral (750 m), Villa Chacay, and Achiras (845m); accommodation is available at Alpa Corral and Villa Chacay. Alpa Corral can be reached direct via Paso del Río Seco on dirt roads (68 km north-west) or via Piedra Blanca.

R Air services

There are daily flights to Buenos Aires (Aeroparque Jorge Newbery).

U Motoring •

Aero Club Río Cuarto, Constitución 846 Club Náutico de Pescadores y Cazadores, Cabrera 984 Río Cuarto Golf Club, Avenida Dr. Vicente Conti 650 @ (0358) 421244. The golf course is in Villa Dalcar; 18 holes

Service station: Y.P.F., RN 8 KM 613

S Buses from Río Cuarto

There are at least 10 services daily to and from Córdoba; see also Buses from Córdoba on page 267. • • • • • •

El Rápido, Ave. España @ 4646603 Sierras Cordobesas, Pasaje Pacheco De Melo 1680 @ 4647563 T.A.C., Ave. España 116 @ 4621815 El Serrano @ 4644614), TUS, Dorrego 41 @ 4635567 T.A. Chevallier ° Buenos Aires ($30.00) via La Carlota (11 2 hr), Canals (21 2 hrs), Arías, and Venado Tuerto (4 hrs); 1 daily ° Mina Clavero (41 2 hrs) via Villa Dolores ($12.50; 31 2hrs); 1 daily ° Villa María (2 hrs) via General Cabrera and General Deheza (1 hour); 1 daily

Río Cuarto

305

CÓRDOBA

RÍO TERCERO

Río Tercero Population: 44 000 Postal code: 5850 @ area code: (3571) Altitude: 387 m Distance from Córdoba: 112 km south on RP 5

R

ío Tercero is located on the river Río Tercero, hence its name, 18 km east of the artificial lake Lago Piedras Moras.

S Buses • •

s Excursions

•

La Vitoria and Los Obreros run daily services to and from Córdoba T.A. Chevallier also runs long-distance services. For details see Buses from Córdoba on page 267

U Motoring •

Localiza , Avenida General Savio 325

The Río Tercero hydroelectric scheme has created a string of artificial lakes which are frequented by tourists. Good pejerrey fishing and water sports. The dams are Embalse Piedras Moras (nearest to town), Embalse del Río Tercero, and Embalse Cerro Pelado

C Accommodation in Río Tercero Hotels *** *** * *

Argentino, Fray Sta María de Oro 80 Mayoral, Savio 1064 Embajador, SantoDiscepolo 50 Vélez Sarsfield, Vélez Sarsfield 549

Residenciales A • • • •

Richard, Lavalle 186 Aligomac, Cafferata 50 Ivrea, Homero Manzi 164 La Paz, General Paz 1 Sarmiento, Sarmiento 77

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AELPV AELPV

@ @ @ @

424468 421801 422280 421336

$E $F $H $F

2 2 2 2

LP LP EGLP EFLP LP

@ @

422084 422110

@

425617

$G $H $H $H $H

2 2 2 2 2

SALSIPUEDES

Salsipuedes Postal code: 5113 @ area code: (0351) Altitude: 750 m Distance from Córdoba: 34 km north on RP 56

S

alsipuedes is located on the eastern slopes of the Sierras Chicas. Also included here are Agua de Oro and Candonga. the Sierras Chicas at an altitude of 605 m. Of interest is the nearby Capilla de Candonga. The area

Agua de Oro is a small mountain village located 8 km north of Salsipuedes on the eastern slopes of 306

Salsipuedes

PAMPA PROVINCES Accommodation in Agua de Oro ** Hotel Estancia Agua de Oro, RP 53 AEFGJLPUV @ 493230 $F 2 Open December–March * Complejo Turístico Los Alamos, Rioja FG @ 93084 $I 2. Tennis courts Accommodation in Candonga A Residencial Candonga ELP

abounds in luxuriant forests. The Oficina de Turismo is on Martín Fierro @ 493244; postal area code is 5107 and @ code is (03525) Candonga is located 55 km north on RP 55 on the eastern side of the Sierras Chicas at an altitude of 810 m, about two hours’ drive from Córdoba. The main attraction is the Jesuit chapel (now a national monument) which was built in 1730 to serve the Estancia Santa Gertrudis. Its style shows the influence of native artists. The winding and picturesque road continues up to La Falda.

D Camping

•

S Buses

•

C Accommodation *

Bello Horizonte, Corro 112, 3 km outside town Ciudad de Córdoba and T.A. Chevallier run 3 services daily to and from Córdoba. See also Buses from Córdoba on page 267

Hotel Piantino, Güemes 6 near RP 53 E @ 492216

SAN CLEMENTE

San Clemente Postal code: 5187 Distance from Córdoba: 66 km west

S

an Clemente is located on the eastern slopes of the Cumbres de Achala. It is somewhat off the beaten track but in good hiking country.

C Accommodation *

•

•

Hotel La Granadilla, about 3 km outside the town AELPV $F 2 Residencial El Vado E @ 423160. Open January–February only

s Excursions

There are archeological sites in the area, mostly rock paintings.

Quebrada del Condorito: Now incorporated into the Parque Nacional Quebrada del Condorito to preserve this area’s flora and fauna, particularly the condors. See also Parque Nacional Quebrada del Condorito on page 247

SAN FRANCISCO

San Francisco Population: 56 000 Postal code: 2400 @ area code: (03564) Altitude: 141 m Distance from Córdoba: 205 km east on RN 19

San Clemente

307

CÓRDOBA C Accommodation in San Francisco Hotels *** ** **

Gran Libertador, 25 de Mayo 1783 Mediterráneo, 9 de Julio 2655 Menfis, 25 de Mayo 2517

Residenciales A A A A A A A

Alex, Avenida Urquiza 1334 Americano, Mitre 76 Canadian, Urquiza 1115 Dunhill, Colón near Iturraspe Majestic, 9 de Julio 2142 Mitre, Mitre 83 San Jorge, Castelli 2847

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV

@ @ @

424680 fax 425566 fax 426677 fax

$E $F $F

2 2 2

LP LP EFLP EGLP LP EGLP EGLP

@ @ @ @ @ @

426118 426701/3 fax 420292 fax 424737 fax 426133 fax 424425 fax

$G $G $G

2 2 2

$G $G $H

2 2 2

@

420228

$G

2

Accommodation in Las Varillas Gran Hotel Las Varillas, 9 de Julio 100 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY EGLP • Hotel Mayo, Avellaneda 29 • Hotel El Mariscal, General Roca 140 • Hospedaje San Martín, Urquiza 38 EFGL

***

S

an Francisco is situated in the north-eastern part of Córdoba province, almost on the border with Santa Fe.

Also included here is Las Varillas, a small farming community located on RP 1 between Villa María (81 km south) and San Francisco (78 km north) This is the wet pampa.

There are 5 services daily to and from Córdoba and direct buses to Santa Fe. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267.

U Motoring

•

M Services and facilities •

Service station: A.C.A., Alberti 57

a Sport

•

Laundromat: Laverap, Bulevar Buenos Aires 147

S Buses

Jockey Club San Francisco, Avenida Los Colonizadores @ (0564) 426184

p Sightseeing

The bus terminal is on 9 de Julio 2272. • Ablo @ 430185 • El Serrano @ 422293 • Empresa Morteros @ 424090 • Empresa El Turista @ 425030 • Empresa T.A.C. @ 431511 • Empresa Mar Chiquita, J.B. Justo 65 @ 423967

Sightseeing in Las Varillas • Museo Regional Las Varillas (Varillas Regional Museum). Consisting of two rooms, it traces the development of the region and town from its beginnings. Open Mon–Fri 13:30–18:00

SAN JOSÉ DE LA DORMIDA

San José de la Dormida Distance from Córdoba: 126 km north on RN 9

T

his is the closest town with accommodation (albeit basic) when visiting the Reserva Cultural Natural Cerro Colorado archeological site.

308

San José de la Dormida

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation *

s Excursions

Motel San José, RN 9 KM 828 AEFLPV

When visiting Reserva Cultural Natural Cerro Colorado and there are no direct buses it is best to continue to Santa Elena a few kilometers north and walk the 11 km to the site.

S Buses

CACORBA and Ciudad de Córdoba run 3 services daily to and from Córdoba. See Buses from Córdoba on 267.

SAN MARCOS SIERRA

San Marcos Sierra Postal code: 5282 @ area code: (03549) Distance from Córdoba 103 km on RN 38

S

an Marcos Sierra is situated halfway between Cruz del Eje and Capilla del Monte at the northern end of the Sierras Chicas on the Río San Marcos, one of the rivers which form the Cruz del Eje reservoir. The natural forest in the area supports honey production.

A Festivals

S Buses

Fiesta de la Miel (Honey Festival), February

Coord. Valle de Punilla and La Cumbre run 3 services daily to and from Córdoba and the Punilla area. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267.

C Accommodation in San Marcos Sierra Hosterías ** *

El Sosiego, Libertad 842 Cielo y Tierra, San Martín

AEFGJLPUV AELPSV

Residenciales

A El Limón, San Martín EFGLP A La Posta de Antu, Libertad 1078 EFGLP A Los Horneros, San Martín 721 LP Also shared bath rooms A Parador de Amautas, Circunvalación LP Also shared bath room • Posada Del Bosque, El Rincón A Valle del Sol, Calle 28 near Circunvalación LP

Cabañas • • • •

Los Quijotes, San Martín 501 BCEGHLPRUV Vicente, Córdoba 1000 AGLP Pach Flo, Vélez Sarsfield 840 AFGHRV Paseo del Alfa, San Martín near Córdoba ABCP

San Marcos Sierra

309

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496127 496135

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496180 496112

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496123

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496213 496137

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496128 496152 496120 496102

CÓRDOBA

SANTA ROSA DE CALAMUCHITA

Santa Rosa de Calmuchita Population: 8000 Postal code: 5196 @ area code: (03546) Altitude: 584 m Distance from Córdoba: 106 km south on RN 36

S

anta Rosa de Calamuchita is located in the spurs of the Sierra de Pocho and Sierras Chicas on the Río Santa Rosa, in the Valle de Calamuchita. • El Gringo, Libertad 270 Cafeterías • La Vaca Echada, Libertad 165 • Mar Batt, Libertad 149

The town was named after Santa Rosa de Lima who was venerated here in 1700 in a little chapel on the banks of the river. Nowadays it is a tourist resort with good facilities. During the summer months the influx of tourists doubles the town’s population. The crystalline Río Santa Rosa has its source in the Cerro Champaqui. It is one of the main rivers feeding into the Dique Río Tercero dam.

n Entertainment

• •

I Post and telegraph

• •

A Festivals •

•

Banco de la Provincia de Córdoba, Libertad 599 @ 420255

M Services and facilities

Secretaría Municipal de Turismo, Córdoba 242 @ 420229 Centro de Atención al Turística, Güemes 13 @ 420762/420277 fax

•

Horse riding: on the other side of the iron bridge

S Buses

D Camping •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Libertad 71 Telephone: Telecom, Avenida José M. Gómez 636

L Financial

•

Santa Rosa de Lima: August 30

B Tourist information •

Stone Age, H. Yrigoyen 560. Disco La Ruta Pub, RP 5 near Independencia

• •

El Portezuelo, RP 5

E Eating out Restaurants • Amicci, Libertad 610. Parrilla • Don Mario, Güemes 15 • Gaby, Mendoza 92 • La Casona de los Amigos, R.J. Cárcano 1308. Parrilla • Los Pinos, Mendoza 156. Parrilla • Oásis, R.J. Cárcano 875. Parrilla

COLTA SACIF @ 420234 Sierras de Calamuchita, T.O.A., T.A. Chevallier and Yacanto run 10 services daily to and from Córdoba. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267

s Excursions

Santa Rosa is in a good position to explore the eastern side of the Sierra de Comechingones around Yacanto de Calamuchita some 30 km west, and from there 10 km further south to the mountain village of Durazno. This is a full-day excursion

Pizzerías • Don Chicho, Libertad 222

310

Santa Rosa de Calmuchita

PAMPA PROVINCES To Córdoba

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LA

C MU

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To Río Cuarto

Santa Rosa de Calmuchita

311

TA

CÓRDOBA C Accommodation in Santa Rosa de Calamuchita Complejo Turístico *

Hotels *** ** ** * * * * *

El Nogal, El Nogal 161 Santa Rosa, Entre Ríos 86 * Rey Eduardo, Libertad 348 * Sierras, J. Cárcano 1200 • Del Valle, Calle 34

** **

Residenciales América, Libertad 951 Ana Mar, Libertad 594 Angelita, Malvinas Argentinas 46 Ariand, Malvinas Argentinas 83 Aurora, Libertad 600 Avenida, R.J. Cárcano 571 Belvedere, Corrientes 250 Don Pedro, H.Yrigoyen 535 Hernancy, Dr. Benito Soria 350 El Trébol, Córdoba near M Moreno Las Violetas, Güemes 33 Piedras Negras, Cárcano 906 Hospedaje Santa Fe, Cárcano Hospedaje Pastrana, Corrientes 208

Accommodation on RP 5 ***

420752

$E

4

@

420691 fax

$F

2

@

420231

$F

1

@ @ @ @

420122 420657 420214 420226

@

420260

$H $G $G $G $G

2 2 2 2 2

AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AELPV AELPV

@ @ @ @ @

420145 420186 420165 420542 421284

$G $G $F/G $G

2 2 2 2

EGLP EGLP LP AEFLP EGLP AEFLP LP AEFLP LP LP LP EFGLP EFGLP APV

@ @ @ @

420738 420248 420205 420841

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

420166 420342 420164 420486 420671 420227 420433 421326 420167

$H $H $H $H $H $G $G $G

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@

421223

$E

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420401 420280 420231

Arcos del Río, R.J. Cárcano 350 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY El Parador de la Montaña AEFGJLPUV Bicycle hire; horse riding Colonia Santa Rosa, Córdoba 585 AEFGJLPUV Open only in holiday season El Sol Del 25, Costanera R.J. Cárcano AELPV Gloria, Dalmacio Vélez 50 AELPV Rex, Libertad 19 AELPV Rex (Annex), Mendoza 27 AELPV Torino, Libertad 355 AELPV

Hosterías

A A A A A A A A A A A A • •

@

AELPV

Valle del Sol, RP 5 KM 731

Ypora Palace, RP 5 KM 733

Accommodation at El Mirador El Mirador is a small village 9 km east of Santa Rosa. Cabañas

• Malike, Champaqui • Villa Jupinda 2, Morteros • El Parador de la Montaña,

TANINGA

Taninga Postal code: 5295 @ area code: (03542) Altitude: 920 m Distance from Córdoba: 136 km west on RP 20 then RP 28

312

Taninga

PAMPA PROVINCES

T

aninga is in the Río Salsacate valley, in the western part of the province. Nearby are the cones of the extinct volcanoes Yerba Buena, Poca, and Boroa.

C Accommodation

A Hotel la Posada del Cerro RP 15 LP * Hostería Los Túneles, RP 15 AELPV * Hostería San Francisco, RP 15 AELPV

•

S Buses

There are at least 4 buses daily to and from Córdoba

s Excursions • •

Salsacate 5 km north Parque Natural Chancani is located 60 km east of Taninga on RN 20 on the western side of the Sierra de Pocho. It covers 4960 ha (12 256 acres) and includes the Quebrada de la Mermela and Los Túneles. The area is covered with Chaco type forest. There is a park rangers home there and in the

vicinity possibility to camp. In the nearby villages of Chancani and Las Palmas is basic accommodation Monumento Natural Volcanes de Pocho. Located 15 km west of Taninga. It covers 8000 ha (19 768 acres) and includes three extinct volcanoes: Volcán Poca, Volcán Velis and Volcán Boroa. The flats are covered with Chaco type forest and dotted with palm trees. Of interest are the geological formations and there are also two colonial chapels in Pocho and La Palmas. In the Pampa de Pocho is Laguna de Pocho. Parque Natural Chancani and Monumento Volcanes de Pocho are linked via the Camino de los Túneles.

TANTI

Tanti Population: 3000 Postal code: 5155 @ area code: (03541) Altitude: 867 m Distance from Córdoba: 52 km west on RN 38 and RN 20

T

anti is a picturesque little mountain village in the foothills of the Sierra Grande. The village is scattered over a wide area and a mountain stream runs through the valley. It was settled by indigenous tribes in pre-Colombian times; in colonial times it was a stop on the western road to Alto Perú. From Tanti a scenic road leads over a mountain pass road to Salsacate with views of Cerro Los Gigantes.

B Tourist information • •

•

Dirección de Cultura de la Municipalidad, Belgrano near Tierra del Fuego @ 498170 Inside bus terminal, San Martín @ 498126

S Buses

The bus terminal is on the corner of Córdoba and San Martín. • Cotap, El Petizo, E.P.A., Pampa de Achala, and T.A. Chevallier run 17 services daily to and from Córdoba and the Punilla area. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267

E Eating out •

Confitería in terminal

I Post and telegraph •

Central post office, corner of Mendoza and San Martín

Tanti

Long-distance telephones, Belgrano 83

313

CÓRDOBA C Accommodation in Tanti Hotels * * * *

Hosterías * * *

@ @ @ @

498297 498146 498130 498145

$F $H $H $G

2 2 1 2

AELPSV AELPV AELPV

@ @ @

498147 498187 498162

$H $H $H

2 2 2

EFLP EGLP EFGLP

@

498190

@

498178

$H $H $H

2 2 2

El Bosque, Belgrano 822 near RN 20 AELPV Los Algarrobos, Ave. General Paz 122AELPV San Martín, San Martín 365 AELPV Tanti, General Paz 115 AELPV Los Manantiales, Moreno 80 Las Margaritas, Rosario La Zulmita, Río Negro

Residenciales

A El Sol, Tucumán A Los Pinos, General Paz 836 • Sans Souci, Tucumán

•

s Excursions •

• •

Mogote Los Gigantes: 32 km on RN 20 west. At 2350 m, the highest peak in the Sierra Grande. Panoramic views, easy ascent. Take an Empresa 20 de Junio bus La Cascada: A 20 m waterfall situated 100 m above the Balneario El Diquecito, within the town Río Los Chorrillos: 6 km from town on RN 20. A 120 m waterfall

Laguna Brava: Located in a horseshoe-shaped cañon, formed by the Río Yuspe. It is covered in thick vegetation, and there are caves formed by the river. The Capilla San José de los Ríos in the nearby small village was built between 1721 and 1745. This is a full day excursion

UNQUILLO

Unquillo Postal code: 5109 @ area code: (0351) Altitude: 566 m Distance from Córdoba: 25 km north-west on RP 57

U

nquillo is a small resort town on the eastern slopes of the Sierras Chicas. Here was the home of one of Argentina’s best-known painters, Lino Enea Spilimbergo. His house has been converted into a museum.

C Accommodation

s Excursions

•

A Hospedaje Amaya, Alberdi 188 ELP @ 488502 $H 2 A Hospedaje La Susanita, San Martín 1900 ELP @ 489288 $H 2

Cosquín: A scenic drive over the Sierras Chicas past Cerro Pan de Azúcar

S Buses

There are regular daily buses to Córdoba.

314

Unquillo

PAMPA PROVINCES

VICUÑA MACKENNA

Vicuña Mackenna Postal code: 6140 @ area code: (03583) Distance to Río Cuarto: 89 km north on RN 35

V

icuña Mackenna is situated on the RN 7 at the intersection with RN 35 in the southern part of the province. F C General San Martín railroad is now closed for passenger traffic. It is still an important crossroad, with a few hotels, and is a convenient stopover between Buenos Aires and Mendoza.

C Accommodation

**

A Hospedaje Sercos, Intendente Gómez 744 EFHP @ 420059

Motel Tala Penda, Intersection of RN 7 and RN 35 AEFGJLPUV @ 421000 $G 2

VILLA CARLOS PAZ

Villa Carlos Paz Population: 42 000 Postal code: 5152 @ area code: (03541) Altitude: 640 m Distance from Córdoba: 36 km west on RN 38

V

illa Carlos Paz is the largest tourist resort in the Punilla valley, situated on the artificial Lago San Roque at the foot of Cerro La Cruz. It is the nearest vacation town to Córdoba. The area on which Villa Carlos Paz stands was given to Juan de Nadal, who accompanied the founder of Córdoba, Juan L de Cabrera, in 1573. The area was then known by its indigenous name of Valle de Quizquicate after the Comechingones people who inhabited the valley; it later became known as Estancia Santa Leocadia. In 1869 the land was acquired by two partners, Rudecindo Paz and Gabriel Cuello. Cuello sold out to the Paz family, whose vision made the farm prosperous. More families settled around the farm and a town planner was engaged in 1914. The old farm disappeared in the lake created by construction of the dam. Vicuña Mackenna

Villa Carlos Paz has excellent tourist facilities with scores of first-class hotels and restaurants. It is linked to the city of Córdoba by a six-lane 40 km long highway and may be considered as the “playground of the Cordobeses”. The entertainment ranges from casinos and night-clubs to outdoor activities on the lake such as swimming, fishing, boating, wind surfing, and sailing. There are tennis courts, ice rinks, and even parachute jumps into the lake. For those wishing to spend a few quiet days there are many idyllic guest houses scattered along the lake shores within easy reach of the city. Many tour operators arrange

315

CÓRDOBA •

day tours in the surrounding hinterland with its valleys and sierras. The restaurants and eating places in Villa Carlos Paz have been rated by local authorities, in a similar manner to hotels.

• • • • •

A Festivals •

Fiesta Provincial de los Lagos (Provincial Festival of the Lakes): January Fiesta Patronal Nuestra Señora del Carmen (Festival of the Patron Saint): July 16

•

E Eating out

Restaurants in Carlos Villa Paz have been assigned ratings by the local tourist authority. Restaurants *** El Dorado, San Martín 1500. Seafood *** Hostal del Sol, Avenida San Martín 1991 *** La Casa de Pedro, Uruguay 464 *** La Terminal, San Martín 410 *** Mariel I, La Paz 135 ** Brec, San Martín near Yrigoyen. Big ** El Ancla, H Yrigoyen 994 ** Kan-Kun, corner of Atlántica and Lincoln ** Stilo, Belgrano 140 ** Vieja Recova, General Paz 247

B Tourist information

You pass a tourist information kiosk in the central strip on San Martín when entering town from the Córdoba side. • Secretaría Municipal de Turismo, San Martín 400, at the bus station @ 421624; e-mail: [email protected] • Villa Carlos Paz Web site: [email protected]

D Camping •

A.C.A., Avenida San Martín near N Huapi AEFGH. Huge complex Bahía del Gitano, Artigas near Azopardo

•

Carlos Paz, corner of Urquiza and Derqui Club Cazadores y Pescadores, Gobernador Ferreyra near Avenida Atlántica Club de Pesca, Esparta near Avenida Atlántica La Ribera, Ayacucho near Costanera Las Tolderías, Comechingones AEL Los Pinos, Curros Enriquez near Lincoln

20

BV

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VILLA CARLOS PAZ METROPOLITANA

TÍ

Villa Carlos Paz

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Villa Carlos Paz

See also Accommodiation in Bialet Massé on page 254, and in Villa Icho Cruz on page 335. Accommodation in the city center South of the lake, between General La Paz and 9 de Julio at one end and Tucumán and H Yrigoyen at the other. Hotels *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Avenida, General Paz 549 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Catedral, Florida 377 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Eiffel, H Yrigoyen 706 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Florida, Belgrano 45 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Linz, La Rioja 68 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Mon Petit, Avenida Libertad 285 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 425006 Platino, Las Heras 60 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Sialdorf, Uruguay corner of Liniers ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Taormina, Moreno 185 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: [email protected] Uruguay, Uruguay 730 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Andino, Uruguay 1040 AEFGJLPUV Arenales, Alberdi 43 AEFGJLPUV Argentino, Bruselas 58 AEFGJLPUV Brisas, Maipú 50 AEFGJLPUV California, Avenida Libertador 359 AEFGJLPUV Capvio, Curro Enriquez 15 AEFGJLPUV Casino, Maipú 90 AEFGJLPUV Centauro, Florida 181 AEFGJLPUV Colonial, Florida 281 AEFGJLPUV Cóndor, Florida 160 AEFGJLPUV Córdoba, Belgrano 175 AEFGJLPUV Coronado Big Confort, General Paz 289AEFGJLPUV El Cid, H Yrigoyen 250 AEFGJLPUV El Monte, Caseros 45 AEFGJLPUV Enri Mar, H Yrigoyen 148 AEFGJLPUV Lion d’Or, Entre Ríos 79 AEFGJLPUV Marciala, Güemes 164 AEFGJLPUV Mont Pelé, Ave. Uruguay near Solís AEFGJLPUV Playa, 9 de Julio 162 AEFGJLPUV Plaza Huincul, Uruguay 832 AEFGJLPUV Vesubio, Entre Ríos 40 AEFGJLPUV Wanda, Alvear 479 AEFGJLPUV Arno, Moreno 39 AELPV Bahía, San Martín 375 AELPV Belgrano, Belgrano 155 AELPV Charicar, Ignacio Hidalgo 20 AELPV Dana, H Yrigoyen 290 AELPV Escorial, Moreno 130 AELPV Gisel, Salta 180 AELPV Hawai, Uruguay 830 AELPV Hermitage, Alvear 570 AELPV Hurlingham, Alvear near General Paz AELPV Italia, 9 de Julio 155 AELPV La Tebra, L.N. Alem near Hernández AELPV Los Laureles, Intendente Juan García 673 AELPV

Villa Carlos Paz

317

@ @ @ @ @

431573 421506 fax 423230 fax 421905 fax 422053

$F $F $F $F $E

2 2 2 2 2

@ @ @

421704 424075/7 fax 421158 fax

$E $E $F

2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

421711 fax 422335 fax 422646 421112 421557 421587 421706 423595 fax 421670 421625 421510 422303 421963 422354 421358 fax 422001 fax 421362 421045 423020 421011 421467 421109 421186 421670 421691 422370 421319 421211 423695 422541 424226 428871 423897 422995 421811 421536 423670 fax

$F $E $H $G $F $H $F $F $G $G $H $G $H $D $F $F $H $H $G $G $G $F $G $F $G $G $H $H $G $H $H $H $H $G $H $G $H

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

CÓRDOBA Accommodation in Villa Carlos Paz — continued * * * *

Pérgola, Florida 416 Posada Sol, Florida 190 Santander, Avenida General Paz 401 Suyay, Perito Moreno 565

AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV

Hosterías *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * *

El Ciervo de Oro, H Yrigoyen 995 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Alpenrose, H Yrigoyen 615 AEFGJLPUV Cerro Azul, Tucumán 298 AEFGJLPUV Dora, H Yrigoyen 137 AEFGJLPUV El Bosque, Florida 191 AEFGJLPUV Las Vertientes, Santa Fe 1200 AEFGJLPUV Panambí, Uruguay block 600 near Liniers AEFGJLPUV Rey, Belgrano 149 AEFGJLPUV Marili, Avenida Uruguay 870 AEFGJLPUV Lalo, Florida 163 AELPV Le Blanc, Alvear 199 AELPV Yokavil, Tucumán 98 AELPV

Residenciales A A A A A A A A A

Carlitos, Avenida Libertad 432 EFGLP Castelar, Avenida Libertad 56 AEFGLP Charo, Alvear 667 AEGLP Don Carlos, Sabattini 55 GLP Dream’s, Avenida Uruguay 848 ELP Durango, Maipú 179 EFGLP Grisabel, Maipú 145 GLP Las Lilas, La Rioja 79 EFLP Platero, General Paz block 300 near Pasaje Bardi EFGLP A Portal del Sol, Fidel López 150 AEGLP A San José, Alvear 191 AEFGLP A Yolan, Florida 136 LP

Accommodation in the center north North of the lake, between 9 de Julio and Uruguay. Hotels *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * * * * * *

Gran Lourdes, Cassafousth 63 Amanda Sol, La Paz 127 La Toscana, Mitre 63 Leonard, Cassafousth 258 Montecarlo, Uruguay 120 Montecatini, Curuzú Cuatiá 100 Nuevo Italiano, Uruguay 253 Temú, Uruguay 150 Anita, Esquiú 52 Bahía Norte, José H. Porto 326 Buenos Aires, Cassafousth 181 City, Sarmiento 248 Comodoro, Cassafousth 99 De La Costa, Uruguay 338 Dunes, Mitre 66 El Mirador, Echeverría 69 Enzo, Curuzú Cuatiá 43 Etna, Esquiú 56

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV AEFHLPV AELPV AELPV AELPV AEFGHLPUV

318

@ @ @ @

421512 421683 422359 424791

$G $H $G $H

2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

422498 430095 423946 421361 fax 421906 421687 422151 fax 423947 423424 421903 422268 421406

$E $F $H $H $G

2 2 2 2 2

$G $G $H $H $H $H

2 2 2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

423073 420200 423999 422597 425804 426141 425976 423497

$H $G $H $H $H $H $H $H

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @

427080 424750 422372 423794

$H $H $H $H

2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

421820 421957 fax 422746 422949 422251 423715 fax 422202 fax 423899 fax 421938 421160 421389 431349 421835 422447 fax 421304 428985 421695 421474

$E $G $G $G $F $F $F $G $H $H $H $G $H $G $G $G $H $H

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

Villa Carlos Paz

PAMPA PROVINCES Accommodation in Villa Carlos Paz — continued * * * * *

Giordano Polano, Sarmiento 438 Imperial, Bialet Massé 386 La Quinta, La Paz 39 Siel, 9 de Julio 910 near Roma Suiza, C Pellegrini 522

Hosterías * * * * * *

La Candela, Roma 276 Lucca, Miguel Juárez 38 Mar del Plata, Esquiú 47 Ritz, Uruguay 38 San Francisco II, H Porto 116 Yuspe, La Paz 59

Residenciales A A A A A

Del Valle, H Porto 27 Flamingo, Bialet Massé 216 Luxor, Colón 66 Necochea, Esquiú 98 Nuevo Astral, Mitre 65

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Accommodation west of the city center West of General Paz and 9 de Julio. Hotels *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * * * * *

Atalaya, Cárcano 192 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Grand Prix, L. de la Torre 45 ACDEFGHJKLPTUVY Del Carmen, San Roque 274 AEFGJLPUV Jalisco, San Roque 463 AEFGJLPUV Grand Hotel, Juan B Justo 314 AEFGJLPUV Montebianco, Lisandro de la Torre 103 AEFGJLPUV Norvil, Los Eucaliptos 350 AEFGJLPUV Savoy, Pasaje Sorrentino 73 AEFGJLPUV Skorpios, Antártida 142 near F Sánchez AEFGJLPUV Bella Vista, Las Malvinas 351 AELPV El Triángulo, Cárcano 1300 AELPV Embajador, Estrada 193 AELPV Marbot, Estrada 200 AELPV Maspaloma, José Ribera 30 AELPV Parque Carlos Paz, Santa Fe 50 AELPV Ruca, Juan B Justo 141 AELPV Torino, Cárcano 56 AELPV

Hosterías ** ** * * * *

Covadonga, Lules 29 Los Espinillos, Pavón 50 Intihuasi, Avenida Estrada 103 Jocar, Juan de Garay 49 Maury, El Redentor 146 Terraza del Sol, Avenida Estrada 179

Residenciales

A Cosmos, San Roque 303 A San Jorge, San Roque 66 A Santa Cecilia, Ingenieros 299 Tennis courts

Villa Carlos Paz

319

CÓRDOBA Accommodation in Villa Carlos Paz — continued Accommodation east of the city center towards Córdoba Hotels **** **** **** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * *

Las Lajas, Avenida San Martín 2475 near España @ 422339 fax ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Libertador, Avenida San Martín 1001 near Córdoba @ 420170 Solarium ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Portal del Lago, Gobernador Alvarez and Cabrera ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 423438, sauna @ 424931/2 Macondo, San Martín near G Mistral ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 428854 Mónaco, Avenida San Martín near Zuviría ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Tennis courts @ 421142 fax Ananque, Avenida San Martín 927 AEFGJLPUV @ 423949 El Tala, Roque Sáenz Peña 54 AEFGJLPUV @ 423547 Florencia, San Martín 595 AEFGJLPUV @ 422599 Gladys, Roque Sáenz Peña 68 AEFGJLPUV @ 422161 Gure Echea, Avenida San Martín 749 AEFGJLPUV @ 422549 fax King, Avenida San Martín 2500 AEFGJLPUV @ 421545 La Casona, Córdoba 72 AEFGJLPUV @ 422870 Los Sauces, Avenida San Martín 502 AEFGJLPUV @ 421807 Riviera, Lincoln 3 near Ave. San Martín AEFGJLPUV @ 423494 Rolson, Avenida San Martín 1097 AEFGJLPUV @ 421210 fax Victory, Andrea del Sarto 25 AEFGJLPUV @ 422279 El Lucy, Martín Fierro 92 AELPV @ 425173 Magú, Buenos Aires near Tokio AELPV @ 422742

Apart Hotels ***

San Isidro, Tokio 150

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Motels ** *

La Cuesta, Avenida San Martín 1489 near O Wilde AEFGJLPUV El Arbol, Avenida San Martín near Gobernador Garzón AEFGLPV

Hosterías ** * * * * * *

El Grillo, Gobernador Ferreyra 212 Chatele’t, Buenos Aires 37 Criced, Avenida San Martín 1388 Cruz del Sur, Martín Fierro 91 Graciela, Lincoln 103 Los Arrayanes, Buenos Aires 221 Torreblanca, Galileo 62

AEFGJLPUV AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV

Residenciales

A Aloha, Martín Fierro 30 EFGHLP A Augustus, José Ingenieros 10 near Avenida General Paz AEFGLP A San Marcos, Artigas 101 LP • Saint Tropez, Avenida San Martín 2921 EFGLP

320

Villa Carlos Paz

PAMPA PROVINCES Accommodation in Villa Carlos Paz — continued Accommodation outside Villa Carlos Paz on RN 38 north Hotels *** *** ** *

Casablanca, Bulevar Sarmiento 1001 Tennis, boat hire, solarium El Faro, Bulevar Sarmiento 1110 Los Cerros, Bulevar Sarmiento 1002 Achalay, Sarmiento 999

Hosterías *

Santiagueña, RN 20 KM 743

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429206 421151 423995 421153

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Accommodation in Villa Parque Siquiman Villa Parque Siquiman is located 12 km north of Villa Carlos Paz on RN 38. **

Hostería Parque Siquiman

Motels **

Puente Negro, RN 20 KM 743

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Parrillas A parrilla is a charcoal grill. *** El Rancho Por’a, Uruguay 472 *** L a C a s o n a , S a n M a r t í n n e a r Gobernador Roca *** Tauro, General Paz 152 ** La Tranquera, San Martín 1506 ** La Posta, San Martín near Tirzo de Molina * Mingo, Uruguay 735 (opposite Hotel Uruguay) • Quincho El Fantasio, Perito Moreno Lomiterías A lomitería is a small parrilla. *** Que Tal, Pasaje San Ignacio near General Paz Pizzerías ** El Viejo Marconi, 9 de Julio 146 * Chiquini, San Martín 945 • San Cayetano, Libertad 100

Pizzerías La Corona, 9 de Julio 398 * Cu-Cu, Sarmiento 445 • Bristol, Sarmiento 296 Confiterías *** Hermitage, 9 de Julio 469 *** Nautique, Sarmiento near H Porto ** Le Blon, Sarmiento 258 ** Vieja Recova, Sarmiento 402 • Coronado, General Paz 289 Eating out in Villa del Lago On the road to La Falda. ***

* * ***

n Entertainment

•

Confiterías A confitería is literally a confectioner’s shop, but is more like a tearoom. ****El Bosque, San Martín 1470 *** Kan-Kun, Avenida Atlántica near Lincoln ** Aerosilla, Florencia Sánchez ** Isaura, San Martín near Villalobos; part of the service station • A.C.A., San Martín near Medrano in the camping grounds • Charo, Libertad 362

•

Eating out in the center north La Casa del Gitano, 9 de Julio 387

*

Villa Carlos Paz

Parrilla Copacabana II, Sarmiento 919 Parrilla El Rey del Cabrito, Sarmiento 553 Confitería Portobello, Sarmiento 1111

321

Aerosilla Carlos Paz tourist complex, F Sánchez 300. At the foot of the mountain there is a swimming pool with solarium. You can take a chair lift to the top where there is a cafeteria, a night-club, and a miniature train set, as well as great views over the city, Lago San Roque, and the mountains surrounding the city Complejo Turístico de Peko, on RN 20, 5 km north of town before the turnoff to Tanti, is a castle-shaped building which houses optical illusions, a small zoo, an aquarium, a garden maze, and a confitería. Precious and semi-precious stones are on display and for sale

CÓRDOBA Key to map A C D E I T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Secretaría Municipal de Turismo Bus Terminals

3 Accommodation 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 22 23 24 25 27 29

•

• • • • • • • • • •

Hotel Enzo Hotel La Toscana Residencial Nuevo Astral Residencial San Antonio Hotel Dunes Residencial Luxor Residencial Del Valle Hostería Mar del Plata Hotel Anita Hotel Etna Residencial Necochea Hotel Gran Lourdes Hotel Comodoro Hotel Buenos Aires Hostería Ritz Hotel Montecarlo Hotel Temú Hotel Nuevo Italiano Hotel Suiza Hotel Condado Hotel Leonard Hotel De La Costa Hotel Grand Prix Hotel Sialdorf Hotel Capvio

30 31 32 33 34 35 36 38 39 41 42 44 45 46 47 48 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 65

Hotel Uruguay Hostería Graciela Hotel Los Sauces Hotel Hawai, Hotel Plaza Huincul and Residencial Dream’s Hotel Riviera Hotel El Monte Hotel Arenales Hotel California and Hotel Bahía Hotel Florida Hotel Brisas Hotel Casino Hotel Florencia Hotel Arno Hotel Hermitage Residencial Carlitos Hotel Ananque Hostería Yokavil Hotel La Casona Hotel Rolson Residencial Augustus Residencial Castelar Residencial San José Hostería Le Blanc Hostería Lalo Hotel Centauro Residencial Yolan Hotel Cóndor Hotel Posada Sol Hostería Rey Hotel Córdoba Hotel Belgrano

•

Complejo Turístico Montaña Mágica (Magic Mountain Tourist Complex) at the end of Calle Córdoba (corner of Los Cerros). Tobogganing on artificial snow, swimming pool, solarium; views over the city and lake; confitería Bingo Sala Azul, Avenida 9 de Julio 53 Casino Sala Dorada, Avenida 9 de Julio 26 Casino Sala de los Espejos, Avenida San Martín 36 Disco Keop’s, corner of RS Peña and Seneca Disco Khalama, Avenida Estrada 113 Disco Molino Rojo, Avenida 9 de Julio 623 (center north) English-style Bar: Chez Ami, corner of L N Alem and J Hernández Tanguería El Mangrullo, Avenida Libertad near Salta Teatro ”Bar”, Avenida General Paz 27 Teatro Candilejas, Pasaje Carolinas near L. de la Torre

• •

• • • • • • • • •

322

66 67 68 69 70 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 83 84

Residencial Grisabel Residencial Durango Hotel Wanda Hotel Taormina Hotel Escorial Hotel Vesubio Residencial San Jorge Hotel Lion d’Or Hotel Mon Petit Residencial Las Lilas Hotel Linz Hotel Parque Carlos Paz Hostería Maury Hospedaje Las Vegas Hotel Del Carmen Residencial Cosmos Hotel Jalisco

4 Eating out

28 Restaurant La Casa de Pedro and Parrilla El Rancho Por’a 49 Chiquini 64 Restaurant Stilo 71 Confitería Charo

5 Entertainment 26 37 40 43 82

Casino Sala de los Espejos Teatro La Sombrilla Teatro del Lago Teatro Moliere La Casa de Caspar

Services

21 Laverap

Teatro Carlos Paz, Avenida 9 de Julio 282 Teatro Cómico, Avenida 9 de Julio 50 in Galería Argeo Teatro de la Villa, a theater complex on the corner of Avenida Uruguay and Liniers. The two theaters within the complex are called the “Sala Verde” (“Green Room”) and the “Sala Ocre” (“Ochre Room”) Teatro del Lago, Belgrano 75 Teatro del Sol, Avenida General Paz 242 Teatro Estrellas, Avenida 9 de Julio 25 Teatro La Sombrilla, Alberdi 50 Teatro Marconi, Avenida 9 de Julio 160 Teatro Moliere, Avenida San Martín 545 Teatro Orfeo, Avenida General Paz 27 Teatro Quijote, corner of Liniers and Avellaneda Teatro Yolanda, Avenida 9 de Julio 70

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Teatro Zorba, corner of Avenida Cárcano and S Roque

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Laundromats • Lavandería Centro, Lisandro de la Torre 61

323

CÓRDOBA •

•

Laverap, Pellegrini 267 (in the center north of town). Open Mon–Sat 08:00–21:00

Tennis Ranch Carlos Paz, San Martín block 2200; 08:00–23:00. Tennis court illuminated Boating • Alas Argentinas, López y Planes. Sailing boat hire • Asociación Clubes de Remo, J L de Cabrera. Rowboat hire • Los 400 Yacht Club, Tagoré • Motonáutico Córdoba, J S Bach • Náutico Córdoba, Vespucio

N Clubs • •

German: Club Alemán, Independencia 201 Italian: Centro Italiano, Avenida Libertad near Belgrano

S Buses

The bus terminal is on the corner of Avenida San Martín and Belgrano. It houses a restaurant (upstairs), confitería, telephones, post office, clean rest rooms and a luggage depot. • Contal, Coord. Valle de Punilla, Costera Criolla, Cotap, El Petizo, El Serrano, E.P.A., Pampa de Achala, and T.A. Chevallier run 15 services daily to and from Córdoba and the Punilla area. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267 • ABLO @ 423298 (Rosario–Buenos Aires) • CACORBA @ 439150 • Costera Criolla ° Buenos Aires–Mar del Plata • El Serrano ° Santa Fe–Paraná–Corrientes • General Urquiza ° Rosario–Buenos Aires • Sierras de Córdoba ° Rosario–Buenos Aires • T.A. Chevallier ° Rosario–Buenos Aires

s Excursions Tour operators • Bambi Turismo, 9 de Julio 172 @ 421855 fax 421706 • Sierra Expediciones, La Paz 166 @ 428492 fax Excursions Tours on amphibious buses go as far as the two dams on the lake. From there there are 21 2-hour launch trips around the lake. Between 09:00 and 19:00 a chair lift ($2.50) runs up Cerro Carlos Paz; tearoom and nightclub overlooking the valley. • Capilla del Monte: This is the classic Punilla excursion visiting Cosquín (with Cerro Pan de Azúcar in the range to the east), La Falda, and La Cumbre to Capilla del Monte. Most of this trip can be done using public buses but tour operators organize half-day tours • Mina Clavero and Los Túneles via Taninga: This trip combines the so-called “Túnel y Volcán” (Tunnel and Volcano) excursions with the High Peaks road. From Villa Carlos Paz you travel north to the junction with RP 28 where the Túnel y Volcán road begins. The road passes through Tanti, then starts climbing towards Mogote Los Gigantes (2376 m), the highest peak of the Sierra Grande. The Club Andino Carlos Paz has two mountain refugios accommodating 40 people near the peak. If you are interested in staying there, check with the tourist information in Villa Carlos Paz. The road then descends to the Río Yuspe and Pampa de San Luis. After passing Cuchilla Nevada it passes through the Valle del Río San

U Motoring Service stations • A.C.A., corner of Avenida San Martín and Medrano • Esso, Avenida San Martín block 1100 (corner of Lincoln) Car rental • Dollar S.A., Gob. Alvarez near Cabrera

Y Shopping

Best buys are leather mats, bags, and pottery.

a Sport •

Roller skating and optical illusions: La Casa de Caspar, El Redentor 350 near M Cane

324

Villa Carlos Paz

PAMPA PROVINCES

•

Guillermo and passes near Dos Ríos, the lowest part, which separates the Sierra Grande to the south and Cumbres de Gaspar to the north. On approaching Taninga the road becomes picturesque once again as the regular cones of the long-extinct volcanoes Yerba Buena, Boroa, and others become visible. After that the trip crosses the Pampa de Pocho on a straight road to Las Palmas. During the Spanish colonial period this was a larger settlement as the main road to the altiplano passed through here. Evidence of its importance is shown by an old colonial church, Capilla de las Palmas, which was built in 1639 and is one of the oldest buildings in the region. It was built of adobe in simplistic colonial style. From Las Palmas it is only a short distance to the túneles. Returning to Las Palmas you take the road south through the Pampa de Pocho; there are patches of Caranday palms along the road. Some 20 km east of Pocho is the Laguna de Pocho, whose waters are said to have medicinal properties. In 1882 the gaucho priest Brochero completed the first irrigation water reservoir in Villa Cura Brochero. The aqueducts can still be seen in the vicinity RN 20 links Villa Carlos Paz with Mina Clavero crossing the Cumbres de Achala; this is an alternative picturesque mountain-pass road with great panoramic views. The road is now sealed and curves gently uphill and reaches its highest point at El Cóndor. There is a cafeteria here, but no hotel. From this point the Lago San Roque and Villa Carlos Paz can

•

be seen for the first time. Tour buses usually stop here for a meal break. From El Cóndor it is possible to reach the Franciscan colegio (school) along an 18 km trail. The colegio is situated on the western slopes of the Sierra Grande at the headwaters of the Río Ruga. Continuing the trip from El Condor to Villa Carlos Paz the road starts to curve, and between Casilla Negra and Copina passes through some particularly scenic country, with sweeping views over the Río Icho Cruz valley and the Sierra Grande to the north, with occasional glimpses of Lago San Roque. Road works are still in progress on this stretch. The bus arrives back in Villa Carlos Paz in late afternoon. You can do this trip with a tour operator or by yourself using buses run by Empresa 20 de Junio and El Petizo La Cumbrecita: This excursion brings you to the Swiss-style mountain retreat going south past Embalse Los Molinos, a huge artificial lake of about 2500 ha (6178 acres). The turn-off from the main road is just south of this lake near Los Reartes. From here it is 16 km to the first “Swiss” village of Villa Berna. The road winds along the valley with views of the Sierra de Comechingones and Sierra de Achala. La Cumbrecita (1480 m) is situated in mountains covered with pine forests. Tour operators run trips on Saturdays departing at 0700. See also La Cumbrecita on page 286

VILLA CIUDAD DE AMÉRICA

Villa Ciudad de América @ area code: (03546) Distance from Córdoba: 65 km south on RN 36

V

illa Ciudad de América is situated on the northern shore of Embalse Los Molinos. It has good tourist facilities and is a center for water sports such as water-skiing, fishing, and wind surfing.

Villa Ciudad de América

325

CÓRDOBA C Accommodation ** *

S Buses

•

Hotel Lago Los Molinos, RP 36 KM 769 AEFGJLPUV @ 462600 fax $F 2 Hotel Fatima, RP 5 KM 770 AELPV $G 2

Sierras de Calamuchita and T.O.A., run 6 services daily to and from Córdoba. See also Buses from Córdoba on page 267. There are also buses to Río Cuarto via Villa Rumipal

VILLA DE MARÍA DEL RÍO SECO

Villa de María del Río Seco @ area code: (03522) Altitude: 315 m Distance from Córdoba: 175 km north of Córdoba on RN 9

L

ocated in the northernmost part of the province, this is the birthplace of Leopoldo Lugones, a poet of country life, whose house is now a museum. During colonial times it was a staging post on the Camino Real to Alto Perú. The small Museo Arqueológico Municipal Enrique Ulla exhibits archeological items found in the area.

S Buses

It is a convenient stopover en route to Santiago del Estero. A few kilometers before arriving in Villa de María at Santa Elena is the turnoff east to the important archeological site Reserva Cultural Natural Cerro Colorado; see page 301. The area is somewhat held back by the lack of a solid tourist infrastructure. In fact the two places listed as accommodation may not be open, so please check beforehand.

There are 10 daily services to and from Córdoba. See Buses from Córdoba, Mercado Sur local bus terminal, on page 270.

s Excursions

•

C Accommodation •

•

Residencial La Posada, Vicente Peñalosa 525 @ (03522) 422167 fax $G 2 Residencial Sumaj Huasi, Avenida F.Rizzuto 660 @ (03522) 422321 $H 2

San Francisco del Chañar: Small mountain streams cascade down into the plains where they gradually disappear in the swamps on their way to Laguna Mar Chiquita. They form cascades in the upper reaches; a particular picturesque spot is near Las Bates where the 200 m rock wall is of intense red color. This is also an area of archeological importance

VILLA DE SOTO

Villa de Soto Postal code: 5284 @ area code: (03549) Altitude: 530 m Distance from Córdoba: 171 km north-west on RN 38

326

Villa de Soto

PAMPA PROVINCES

V

illa de Soto is situated in the north-west near La Rioja province, close to the Salinas Grandes. It is one of the driest areas in Córdoba province. Some 22km west is the Embalse de Pichana completed in 1978. The upper reaches of the Río Salsacate could be of interest to hikers.

C Accommodation **

•

S Buses

•

Hostería Martínez, J I Peralta 726 AEFGJLPUV @ 480337 $G 2 Hospedaje Costanera, J H. Porto 1076 $H 2

Contal, Pampa de Achala, and T.A. Chevallier run 9 services daily to and from Córdoba and the Punilla area. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267. There are also buses to La Rioja

VILLA DEL DIQUE

Villa del Dique Postal code: 5862 @ area code: (03546) Distance from Córdoba: 117 km south-west on RN 36

V

illa del Dique is situated on the northern shore of the artificial lake Embalse del Río Tercero, the largest of a string of lakes on the Río Tercero. It is a good place for water sports.

C Accommodation * * * *

• •

•

Apart Hotel Costa del Sol, Villa Guadalupe AELPV @ 497426 $E 2 Hotel Venecia, Hipólito Yrigoyen AELPV @ 497252 $H 2 Hostería Caribe, Calle Principal AELPV @ 97466 $G 2 Hostería Santa Marta AELPSV @ 497258 $G 2 Residencial La Armonia, RP 5 KM 720 EFGHLPRUV @ 497415 $H 2; also shared bath-room Cabañas Colonia Almirante Brown (A.C.A.), at the town entrance @ 497283

Villa del Totoral

Cabañas Norma, RP 5 KM 750 @ 497516

D Camping

•

Camping Municipal, on the north-west side of the Embalse Río Tercero @ 97550; capacity 400 tents, AFLT, in a forested area

S Buses

•

COLTA SACIF @ 497296; for services see Buses from Córdoba on page 267.

VILLA DEL TOTORAL

T

his little town located 71 km north of Córdoba was already in colonial times a summer resort. One of the old colonial houses was the home of the poet Octavio Pinto, now a museum. You can also visit the bodega which belonged to the family of Don Jerónimo Luis de Cabrera, the founder of the city of Córdoba.

Villa del Dique

327

CÓRDOBA S Buses

The center of town is a time capsule, dotted with buildings built around the 1870s. During the Spanish colonial time it was a staging post on the Camino Real.

There are 23 daily services to and from Córdoba. See Buses from Córdoba, local bus terminal on Entre Ríos, on page 270.

s Excursions

•

C Accommodation *

•

Hostería La Posada del Totoral, Bulevar Serafini near Santa Rosa AELPV @ (03524) 447485 $H 2 Hospedaje Rodríguez, 9 De Julio 82 @(03524) 447058 $H 2

A short walk from town along the river brings you to Estancia La Loma. On the way you pass archeological sites mostly grinding stones which were used by the Comechingones Indians to grind corn

VILLA DOLORES

Villa Dolores Population: 26 000 Postal code: 5870 @ area code: (03544) Altitude: 529 m Distance from Córdoba: 190 km south-west on RP 14/20

V

illa Dolores is situated in the Río San Javier valley on the Río Los Sauces, on the western side of the Sierra de Comechingones. The region is also known as “Traslasierra” (or “behind the mountains” as seen from Córdoba). The town has views to Cerro Champaqui and is a good base for walks in the mountains. Wine, olives, tobacco, and walnuts are extensively grown in the area. The Traslasierra road to Villa Carlos Paz is now completely paved.

Included here are the mountain resorts of La Población, Las Tapias, and Villa Las Rosas. La Población is situated in the western foothills of the Sierra de Comechingones some 26 km south east of Villa Dolores. Las Tapias is located 7 km east of Villa Dolores. It is a small township surrounded by vineyards in the shade of the Sierra de Comechingones and 10 km south of Lago La Viña, an artificial lake with water-sport facilities. Villa Las Rosas is located 13 km east of Villa Dolores in vineyard

country; it has accommodation and public transport.

B Tourist information

•

Oficina de Informes y Turismo, 25 de Mayo 1 @ 421006. Information about archeology in the area

D Camping

•

Piedras Pintadas, 5 km from town center near Lago Los Sauces. 15 minutes by bus #1

E Eating out

•

328

Restaurant Piedras Pintadas. Dancing

Villa Dolores

PAMPA PROVINCES VILLA DOLORES es

14

AVE. BELGRANO

148

A

ES

11

UN NF

RAMÓN J. CÁRCANO

EA .D

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To Córdoba

MONTEVIDEO

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BV

R. DE ESCALADA

AVENIDA GENERAL SAN MARTÍN

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ESTEBÁN ECHEVERRIA

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CURA BROCHERO PELLEGRINI

SEGURA

KENNEDY

INDEPENDENCIA

STANISLAO S ILV A

Key to map A C D E I T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Oficina de Informes y Turismo Bus terminal

LAPRIDA

3 Accommodation

9 Hotel Sierras Grandes 10 Residencial Cáceres

4 5 7 8

2 Laverap 11 Defunct railroad station

1 3

Residencial Micheletti Residencial Valle de Traslasierra Hotel Villa Plaza Residencial Champaqui Residencial Centro Residencial Sonia

Services

I Post and telegraph

R Air services

•

S Buses

•

The airport is at Alto de Castro.

Post office: Correo Argentino, Italia 299 Telephone: Telecom, Belgrano 340

The bus terminal is on the corner of Brizuela and España, near the former rail station.

M Services and facilities •

Laundromat: Laverap, Belgrano 455

Villa Dolores

329

CÓRDOBA C Accommodation in Villa Dolores Hotels

Ariane, Belgrano near RN 148 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Sierras Grandes, Avenida San Martín near España AEFGJLPUV * Villa Plaza, Sarmiento 33 AELPV • Belgrano, Belgrano 1722

*** **

Residenciales A A A A A A A A A A •

Cáceres, Brizuela 390 EFGLP Champaqui, Felipe Erdman 162 EFGLP Los Pinos, Piedra Pintada EFGLP Micheletti, A Castellano 53 near Mejico EFLP Mitre, Sarmiento 52 LP Nuevo Centro, San Luis 169 LP Paso del León, Primera Junta 35 Sonia, Brizuela 425 LP Urquiza, F. Erdman 150 Valle de Traslasierra, H Yrigoyen 317 EFGLP El Pancho, Sarmiento 52

Accommodation in Villa Las Rosas (Traslasierra) * * * *

Hostería Kali-ma, Tesandori Hostería Ko E-Mbota, Guasmara Hostería Las Dalias, Las Chacras Hostería Las Rejas, Belgrano

AELPV AELPV AELPV AELPV

Accommodation in Las Tapias *

Accommodation in La Población * *

• • •

AELPV

Posta del Mistól, on road to lake horse riding, tennis Hostería Champaqui shared bath room cheaper Hostería La Reserva

AELPV AELPV

•

Service station: A.C.A., Belgrano 200

p Sightseeing •

423029

$F

2

@ @ @

420088 421691 423227

$H $H

1 1

@ @

420830 422358

@ @ @ @ @ @

420652 423506 422365 421945 422938 422358

$H $G $G $H

2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @

494354 494403 494559 494433

$G $F $E $G

2 2 3 2

@

420893

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@

482097

$G $G

2 2

s Excursions

Servicio Diferencial Panaholma, Sarmiento 173 @ 423900 Pampa de Achala, Belgrano 124 @ 420720 El Petizo, T.A. Chevallier, and Pampa de Achala run 6 services daily to and from Córdoba. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267 and Río Cuarto on page 305

U Motoring •

@

Museo Arqueológico “Ernesto Arrieta” (Ernesto Arrieta Archeological Museum)

330

Mina Clavero: The road from Villa Dolores to Mina Clavero heads east towards the Sierra de Comechingones in an almost straight line. The airdrome and aero club are 3 km out of town. The road starts climbing at Las Tapias. There are vineyards on both sides of the road. From Villa las Rosas (where Discoteca Los Cuartos is open during summer) the road turns north and runs parallel to the eastern side of the Sierra de Comechingones and enters hilly country. At Los Pozos there is a turn-off to the southern end of Lago La Viña dam. From Los Pozos the road heads eastwards for 5 km then veers north towards the highest part of the Cumbres de Achala . Just Villa Dolores

PAMPA PROVINCES before Los Hornillos the road enters the valley and descends to Hostería Alta Montaña. Outside Los Hornillos we pass Hostería Dos Arroyos and Hostería Monte Perico, open only during summer. Las Rabonas is a small rural community with a sprinkling of villas, and the Hostería El Talamar. At Huacle there is Motel La Quebrada. From here onwards the countryside consists of shrub lands alternating with cultivated lands, where there are many apiaries. The Cumbre de Achala on the right-hand side is now getting lower. At Nono there is a turn-off to Hotel del Alto, 3 km up on the right; 5 km from Nono is the Museo Rocsen (Rocsen Museum). After Nono the road follows the Río de los Sauces. The landscape here is not unlike that encountered in

•

•

Australia. The road has a good surface, and the flat valley is followed on the western side by a low mountain range. Just before arriving at Mina Clavero is Santa Iñez camping grounds, near the river. See also Mina Clavero on page 295 Cerro Champaqui: The best way to reach the top of this mountain is via San Javier and Capilla Constancia. The Municipalidad (Town Hall) in San Javier has names of guides. The walk goes through pine forests and walnut groves. From San Javier it is 8 km to the base of Cerro Champaqui. It is a four-hour walk to Constancia. It can be done in one day if you start early in San Javier Lago La Viña: 23 km. Swimming, pejerrey fishing, and boat hire at the artificial lake; see page 292

VILLA GENERAL BELGRANO

Villa General Belgrano Population: 4700 Postal code: 5194 @ area code: (03546) Altitude: 840 m Distance from Córdoba: 88 km south on RP 5

V

illa General Belgrano is situated in the pretty Río Calamuchita valley , surrounded to the west by the Sierra Grande and to the east by the Sierras Chicas. It is equidistant from two artificial lakes: Embalse del Río Tercero (19 km away) and Embalse Los Molinos (21 km away). There are good tourist facilities, and the proximity of the sierra has made this town a favorite vacation resort, particularly among Argentina’s German community. Further up the mountains are Swiss-style villages and hamlets such as La Cumbrecita and Villa Berna. There do not appear to be any regular buses between Villa General Belgrano and La Cumbrecita. Villa General Belgrano has strong German roots. It was virtually founded by the crew of the Graf Spee, who were interned here during

Villa General Belgrano

the Second World War and chose to remain afterwards. Every year in October the beer festival is held, complete with Bavarian brass bands, German folk dances, and Weisswurst. At this time scores of Argentine Germans congregate here. Villa General Belgrano is known locally as “Belgrano”. Also included here is Villa Berna, located 32 km west in mountainous area. Villa Berna is the starting point for excursions to Cerro

331

CÓRDOBA C Accommodation in Villa General Belgrano

During the October beer festival it is advisable to book in advance. Hotels ***

&

*** ** * * *

Bremen, RP 5 KM 741 near Cerro Negro ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 461258 Edelweiss, Avenida Comechingones near Ojo de Agua Fax 461387; English/German spoken ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Berna, Vélez Sársfield 86 AEFGJLPUV Baviera, El Quebracho 21 AELPSV Prater, Quebracho 4 AELPSV Tirol D’Andrea, San Martín near Ojo de Agua AELPSV

Hosterías ** ** ** * * *

Alfred, Uruguay near Julio A. Roca AEFGJLPSUV PosadaTantra, San Vicente Palloti 36 AEFGJLPSUV Rancho Grande, Julio A. Roca 377 AEFGJLPSUV El Mirador, Danubio 459 Barrio Mirador AELPSV Halcon, Cerro Negro 42 AELPSV Posada de Akasha, Los Manantiales 60 AELPSV

Residenciales

A Alpino, 25 de Mayo 9 AEFGLPS A Bodensee, Julio A. Roca 343 AEFGLP German spoken A Düsseldorf, Julio A Roca AEFGLP A Giovanni Luigi, Ojo de Agua 35 EFGLP A Im Blauen Tal, San Martín 20 EFGLP A Posada Nehuen, Ave. San Martín ADEFGLPS A Posada Novalis, Julio A. Roca 36 EFGLP A Posada Ojo de Agua, Ojo de Agua 91 EFGLP A Samay Huasi, Avenida Comechingones 563 AEFGLPS A Sierras Chicas, Avenida Julio A. Roca 127 LP

Cabañas

• Aldea Uruel, Ojo de Agua 131 AEFLP • Am Bach, Lago di Como ADEFGLP • Casas Blancas, Famatina 96 near Tronador LP E-mail: [email protected] • Del Sol, 17 de Agosto 345 AEFGLP • El Mirador de la Sierra, José M. Gómez 492 AEFGLP • La Merced, Vicente Palloti 50 ACDHLPR Fax 462451 • Lorelei, El Coco 521 AEFGHLPRSUV • Samay Suma, Moreno 46 AEFGHLPRUV • Yana Tacu, Ojo de Agua 3715 AHLNPRV

Cabañas on RP 5

• Alpendorf, RP 5 KM 743.5 AEFGLPS • Grazhauser, RP 5 KM 742 EFGLP • Pozo Verde, RP 5 Norte AHR E-mail: [email protected]

Complejos Turísticos ** *

Altos de Belgrano, RP 5 KM 744 Berghütten, Solís 94 E- mail: [email protected]

AEFGLP AEHKLPRV

332

@

461133

$D

2

@ @ @ @ @

461317 461097 461476 461167 461166

$D $F $F $F $D

2 2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @

461119 462142 461358 461443 461289 462440

$F $F $F $F $F $F

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@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

462078 461451 462017 462392 461412 461680 461237 462534 461350

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2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

@ @

462230 461533

$F $D

2 4

@ @ @

462546 461424 461263

$D $D $D

4 4 5

@ @ @ @

462451 462150 462236 462350

$F $D $D $D

2 4 4 4

@ @ @

462318 462294 461715

$D $E

4 2

@

462216

$D

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@

461294

$F

2

Villa General Belgrano

PAMPA PROVINCES Accommodation in Villa General Belgrano — continued *

Hostería La Trucha

•

October 11 celebrates the arrival of the first German settlers and coincides with the Beer Festival Fiesta de la Masa Vienesa (Festival of the Viennese Cookies) coincides with Holy Week. A grand Viennese ball is held as the crowning event Tyrolian carnival: December and January

B Tourist information •

Comisión Municipal de Turismo, San Martín 43 Plaza José Hernández @ 461215; e-mail: belgrano@tecomnet. com.ar; Web site: http://www.nt. com.ar/vgbelgrano.html; fax 461216. Open daily 07:30–12:30 and 16:00–20:00

D Camping

To La Cumbrecita

•

Ar

Municipal camping grounds, on the banks of the River El Sauce near the bus terminal • San José, 5 km from center on RP 5 Camping on the road to La Cumbrecita • Alta Vista, 14 km from town @ 425156 AFL also cabañas. Near the river; E-mail: [email protected] • Tannenwald, 14 km from town @ 462116. Fishing, horse-riding; open in tourist season

To Córdoba

VILLA GENERAL BELGRANO

ro yo La To m

5

a AVE. LAS MAGNOLIAS

T

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

SOLÍS MORENO

D P

V. SARSFIELD

I OJO DE AGUA

LOS MANANTIALES

Restaurants • Bierhaus, Avenida Julio A. Roca 71. International cuisine • Bierkeller, RP 5, at the town entrance. German cuisine • Chalet Suisse, Cerro Negro 86. International cuisine • Il Mago, Champaqui. Italian cuisine • La Taberna, Avenida Julio A. Roca. International cuisine • Lo de Paul, Avenida San Martín 34. Italian cuisine

PALOT TI

J.A . ROCA

To Athos Pampa

E Eating out

Villa General Belgrano

2

$G

Munich, Avenida San Martín 384. German cuisine • Norma, Avenida San Martín. Parrilla • Salzburg, Avenida Julio A. Roca 39. International cuisine • Szyller, Avenida Julio A. Roca 173. German cuisine • Tirol, Avenida San Martín 125. German cuisine Pizzerías • Don Miguel, Avenida Julio A. Roca • El Quimelén, Avenida San Martín 17 Cafeterías • Chocolate, Avenida San Martín 6 • Ciervo Rojo, Avenida Julio A. Roca 208. Bar • Der Bach, Avenida Ojo de Agua. Bar • Hamburg, Los Manantiales. Bowling, Bar • Ottilia, J. Strauss 10. Bar • Willy Bar, Avenida San Martín. Bar

A Festivals •

462070

•

Champaqui and down into the Traslasierra region. •

@

AELPV

Ar ro yo El Sa uc e

Accommodation in Villa Berna

N E

URUGUAY

17 DE AGOSTO SALTA

D

Correo Argentino

E

Central Telefónica

I

Secretaría de Turismo

T

Bus terminal

5 AVE. CHAMPAQUI

P

Accommodation Beer gardens

To Río Cuarto

333

CÓRDOBA n Entertainment • •

Gerlind, RP 5 near Paguaga. Disco Tip Top, Avenida San Martín. Disco

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Plaza San Martín Telephones: Telecom, Plaza San Martín

S Buses

The bus terminal is about five blocks from Plaza San Martín on Plaza Vélez Sarsfield. • COLTA SACIF @ 462507 • Sierras de Calamuchita, T.O.A., T.A. Chevallier, and Valle de Calamuchita run 17 services daily to and from Córdoba. See Buses from Córdoba, Mercado Sur terminal on page 270 and terminal on Entre Ríos on page 270

•

U Motoring •

Service station: A.C.A., RP 5 near Avenida Champaqui

a Sport • • • •

Flying: Aeroclub Swimming: There is a public swimming pool, and there are pools at most of the better hotels Tennis: Tennis courts at Hotel Edelweiss. Small fee for external users Club Náutico, on the road to Dique Los Molinos @ 461078

s Excursions Tour operators • Trails Personalised Journeys, Julio A. Roca @ 462087 fax Excursions • Dique Los Molinos: This 61 km trip makes a complete circuit of the lake

Villa Icho Cruz

and takes a full day by car. Follow RP 5 north. Shortly before arriving at Villa La Merced you will see the lake on your left. It covers 2500 ha (6178 acres) and was inaugurated in 1953. Water sports and pejerrey fishing are popular here. Continue to Villa Ciudad de America where you turn west, taking the road to Potrero de Garay, following the northern lake shore. At Potrero de Garay turn south. The road crosses Río Espinillo and Río del Medio, which flow from the Sierra Grande and are the main feeder streams of the lake. After Los Reartes it crosses Río de los Reartes, another major feeder of the lake. Continue until you return to Villa General Belgrano La Cumbrecita: 85 km, a full day by car. This trip takes you through an almost Alpine landscape: forests, clean streams, waterfalls. On leaving Villa General Belgrano take the direct road due north to Los Reartes. At Los Reartes turn west and follow the road past Villa Berna right up to La Cumbrecita, a transplanted Swiss Alpine village with a hotel. Return via Villa Berna but instead of continuing due east to Los Reartes take the turn-off to the south passing through Intiyaco and Atos Pampa. If you wish to go into higher Alpine country turn west 3 km south of Intiyaco: a trail leads to Villa Alpina with an Alpine hut. This is the starting point for a climb to Cerro Champaqui from the eastern side of the Sierra de Comechingones. Returning to Villa General Belgrano turn east at Atos Pampa until you reach the crossroads a t C a p i l l a V i e j a. S e e a l s o L a Cumbrecita on page 286

VILLA ICHO CRUZ

V

illa Icho Cruz is a little village located 20 km west of Villa Carlos Paz at the beginning of the scenic Traslasierra road over the Pampa de Achala to Mina Clavero. 334

Villa Icho Cruz

PAMPA PROVINCES San Antonio de Arredondo is located 12 km south of Villa Carlos Paz and 3 km west of Villa Icho Cruz at the road junction of RP 14, with the scenic road leading to Alta Gracia past the observatory near Bosque Alegre. Note that many hotels open only between end December and middle of February. There are regular local bus services to Villa Carlos Paz. Villa Icho Cruz and San Antonio are virtually suburbs of Villa

Carlos Paz. They have good facilities but are quieter than Villa Carlos Paz.

C Accommodation

Hotel Icho Cruz, Juan de Casaris AELPV @ 491039 * Hostería Icho Cruz, 4 km from town on Río San Antonio @ 495632 $F 2 Accommmodation in San Antonio de Arredondo ****Hotel La Posada del Genti, RP 14 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 495715 $B 2 * Hostería Los Pinos, RP 14 AELPV *

VILLA MARÍA

Villa María Population: 69 000 Postal code: 5900 @ area code: (0353) Altitude: 200 m Distance from Córdoba: 146 km south-east on RN 9

V

illa Maria is a prosperous agricultural center situated in the fertile humid pampa on the Río Tercero. It is an important town on the crossroads of the main Buenos Aires–Córdoba road and the most convenient highway route linking central Chile with Paraguay, Uruguay, and Brazil.

C Accommodation in Villa María Hotels **** ** ** *

ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ City, Buenos Aires 1184 AEFGJLPUV @ Presidente, San Martín 165 AEFGJLPUV @ Antares, Bulevar M.T. de Alvear 191 AELPV @ República, 9 de Julio 60

Residenciales

A Alcázar, Alvear near M Ocampo A Alvear, M T de Alvear 578 shared bath room cheaper A Continental, Corrientes 1150 shared bath room cheaper A Plaza, San Martín 141 A San Carlos, España 552 A San Martín, H Yrigoyen 127 A San Remo, M T de Alvear 593

Villa María

EFGLP EFGLP LP EFGLP EFGLP EFGLP EFGLP

335

4535500 4534322 4533670 4524444

$E $F $G $E

2 2 2 2

@

4525948

$G

2

@

4535139

$H

2

@ @

4533257 4523249

@ @

4534716 4521750

$H $H $G $G $G

2 2 2 2 2

CÓRDOBA • • • •

A Festivals •

Festival de Peñas Folkloricos (Folksong Festival): first week in January

B Tourist information •

Subdirección de Turismo, Sobral near Mendoza 3rd floor @ 4521058

U Motoring

•

I Post and telegraph • •

Coata, @ 4522511 General Urquiza @ 4531050 T.A. Chevallier @ 4534001 Villa María, Bulevar Sarmiento 1675 @ 4526626 Service station: Y.P.F., Alem 990

a Sport

Post office: Correo Argentino, Catamarca 1190 Telephone: Telecom, J Ingenieros 151

•

S Buses

Villa María Golf Club, RP 2 near Avenida Humberto Barberis @(03531) 423171/451622

s Excursions

The bus terminal is on M.T. de Alvear 681. There are 16 services daily to and from Córdoba; for services see Buses from Córdoba on page 267 and Río Cuarto on page 305. • ABLO @ 4533006

On an island in the Río Tercero there is a flora and fauna reserve.

VILLA RUMIPAL

Villa Rumipal Population: 2000 Postal code: 5864 @ area code: (03546) Altitude: 590 m Distance from Córdoba: 114 km south on RN 36

V

illa Rumipal is situated at the north end of the artificial lake Embalse del Río Tercero. It was founded by Gustav Riemann in 1930 at the time when the dam construction started. It has become now a tourist resort. •

The climate is good all year round. The indigenous inhabitants of this area were the Comechingones, but the only reminder of them is the name of the town: rumi means “stone” and pal means “star”, possibly indicating a meteorite fall they witnessed in the area.

B Tourist information

•

• •

Dirección de Turismo, Riemann 326 @ 498272

C Accommodation

Hotel Lago, Bulevar Illia near Riemann AELPV @ 498286 * Hostería Cayzani, Bulevar Illia 394 AELPV @ 498274 $G 2 * Hostería Colonia Sutna, Riemann near Wagner AELPV @ 498209 A Residencial Villa Rumipal, Almte. Brown LP Accommodation on RP5 ** Parque Hotel Villa Rumipal, KM 722 @ 498365 *

A Festivals •

Motonáutica Inter provincial: A motor-boat racing event

Festival Provincial del Lago (Provincial Lake Festival): January Magimundo: during the winter vacation Expo Rumipal: in September during Semana del Pueblo, an exhibition of crafts and archeology

336

Villa Rumipal

PAMPA PROVINCES D Camping

R Air services

E Eating out

•

There are several camping grounds along the lake shore.

There is an airstrip for local flights only.

S Buses

There are several restaurants, bars, and tearooms.

n Entertainment

Sierras de Calamuchita, T.O.A., and T.A. Chevallier run 11 services daily to and from Córdoba. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267

a Sport

Most of the discos and dancing spots are only open during the tourist season, December–February.

•

I Post and telegraph

There is a post office and public telephones.

•

Fishing: Good places to fish for the “king of fish”, the pejerrey, are the banks near the river mouths of Río Santa Rosa and Río Quillinzo, and from boats Water sports: Boat hire, diving, swimming, water-skiing, sailing

VILLA TULUMBA

Villa Tulumba Postal code: 5203 @ area code: (03521) Altitude: 690 m Distance from Córdoba: 132 km north on RP 60 then RP 16

V

illa Tulumba is located in the northern part of the province. It still has the air of a small Spanish colonial town. In the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Rosario is an altar piece which goes back to the Jesuits in 1706 but is most likely the work of an indigenous craftsman.

C Accommodation *

and also to Déan Funes and San José de la Dormida. See Buses from Córdoba on 267

Hotel Las Vegas AELPV $I 1. The bus stops in front of the hotel

S Buses •

Empresa Ciudad de Córdoba runs 1 service daily to and from Córdoba

YACANTO DE CALAMUCHITA

Yacanto de Calamuchita Postal code: 5197 Distance from Santa Rosa de Calamuchita: 31 km west

Y

acanto de Calamuchita is situated in the Sierra de Comechingones at the eastern approach to Cerro Champaqui, the highest mountain in the Sierra de Comechingones. The region is forested and has many waterfalls. There is trout fishing in the Río Yacanto, a tributary of the Río

Villa Tulumba

Durazno, and good mountain walks. 337

CÓRDOBA C Accommodation *

•

bounding the property. Reservations: Yacanto @ (03546) 462583/462600

Hostería Champaqui AELPV @ (03546) 485027 $H 2 Estancia La Florida, an agricultural farm in green pastures, offers accommodation and fishing in rivers

S Buses

Yacanto has one service daily to and from Córdoba. See Buses from Córdoba on page 267.

YACANTO DE SAN JAVIER

Yacanto de San Javier Postal code: 5875 @ area code: (03544) Altitude: 1100 m Distance from Villa Dolores: 20 km east

Y

acanto de San Javier is located on the western side of the Sierra de Comechingones — not to be confused with Yacanto de Calamuchita, which is on the eastern side of the Sierra de Comechingones. The town’s springs are said to contain curative waters. It is also the starting point for climbing Cerro Champaqui.

C Accommodation

a Sport

•

Hotel Yacanto AEFGJLPUV @ 482002 (San Javier) $D 2 Accommodation in San Javier San Javier is 2 km north of Yacanto. * Hostería Casa Pueblo AELPV @ 482038 $F 2 **

Golf Club Yacanto in Hotel Yacanto @ 421581; 18 holes

s Excursions

•

Anselmo Torres @ 488081; mountaineering and walks

S Buses

Empresa 20 de Junio runs daily services to and from Córdoba.

Stopovers

I

STOPOVERS

n this section I have listed those towns which are not on the normal tourist trail but have some facilities. and gas station. Regular daily buses run to Río Cuarto and Venado Tuerto in Santa Fe Province. Accommodation A Hospedaje Arias, Avenida Rivadavia 1102 AEFHLPU @ 440161 $H 2 A Hospedaje Mayo, San Martín 1022 HLP $H 2

Arias Nearest town described: Venado Tuerto in Santa Fe Province, 36 km east on RN 9 (page ) Arias is located in the south-eastern part of the province, 2 km off the main highway; to Río Cuarto is 200 km west. This is flat pampa. Population is about 5000; altitude 122 m; postal code 2624; @ area code (03462); accommodation, restaurants 338

Stopovers

PAMPA PROVINCES A Hospedaje Santa Teresa, Italia 1031 EHLP @ 440322 $G 2 Arroyito Nearest town described: San Francisco 80 km east on RN 19 (page 307) Regular daily buses run to Córdoba and San Francisco. Postal code 2434; @ area code (03576). Accommodation ** Hotel Hostal del Arroyito, RN 19 KM 220 AEFGJLPUV @ 421023 $F 2 ** Hotel Xanaes, Loredo 622 AEFGJLPUV @ 421268 $G 2 * Hotel Ona, Ave. F. Paganini 1995 near Loredo y Batalla AELPV @ 421695/7 $G 2 Ballesteros Nearest town described: Villa María 55 km west on RN 9 (page 335) Population 2000; altitude 162 m; gas station. Accommodation • Residencial Titi, Argentino near Belgrano AEFGHLPV @ (0353) 4930372 $G 2 Berrotarán Nearest town described: Río Cuarto 80 km south on RN 36 (page 303) Located in the wide Valle de la Cruz with views of the chain of the Sierra de Comechingones. Altitude is 690 m; population approximately 3000; postal code 5817; accommodation, restaurants, and gas station. Accommodation on RN 36 * Hotel Co-Ra-Se, H Yrigoyen 2 near San Martín AELPV @ (03586) 4940107 $H 2 • Hospedaje Petizo Azul, Berrotarán 119 $H 2

Accommodation on RN 8 Hotel Córdoba, 25 de Mayo 226 AELPV @ 420965 $G 2 * Hostería Nuevo Mayo, Maipú 798 AELPV @ 420886 $H 2 Colonia Caroya Nearest town described: Córdoba 50 km south on RN 9 (page 257) Accommodation * Hotel del Sol, San Martín 1894 AELPV @ (03525) 467890 $G 2 La Francia Nearest town described: San Francisco 60 km east on RN 19 (page 307) Accommodation • Residencial Angius, Independencia 138 @ (03564)471235 Las Varillas Nearest town described: San Francisco 78 km north on RP 1 (page 307) Accommodation • Hotel Mayo, Avellaneda 29 @ (03533) 420528 Leones Nearest town described: Marcos Juárez 19 km east on RN 9 (page 294) Altitude is 120 m; gas station. Accommodation * Hotel Ideal, Amadeo Bertini near Colón AELPV @ (03472) 448553 $H 2 • Hotel Parque, Ave. Igoillo 1151 @ (03472)481000 Oliva Nearest town described: Córdoba 93 km north-west on RN 9 (page 257) Oliva is halfway to Villa María in the wet pampa. Altitude is 270 m; accommodation, gas station. Accommodation ** Hotel El Parador de Tita, RN 9 KM 609 AEFGJLPUV @ (03532) 420274 $G 2 ** Motel La Carreta, R.S. Peña 996 AEFGJLPRUV @ (03532) 420668 $G 2 A Residencial El Panamericano, L N Alem 642 LP $G 2 *

Canals Nearest town described: La Carlota 48 km east on RN 8 (page 282) The actual township is 4 km south of the main highway in flat pampa. On the highway is an A.C.A service station. Population is approximately 5000; altitude 148 m; postal code 2650; @ code (03463); accommodation, restaurants and gas station; regular daily buses to Río Cuarto.

Stopovers

Oncativo Nearest town described: Córdoba 78 km north-west on RN 9 (page 257) Altitude is 285 m; accommodation, gas station. 339

CÓRDOBA A Residencial Ruta 9, Juan B Alberdi near T Garzón LP @ (03572) 471278/470092

Accommodation * Hostería Permanelli, Belgrano 783 AELPV $H 2 A Hotel La Posta, San Martín 1182 LP @ (03572) 466095 $F2 Pilar Nearest town described: Córdoba 44 km north-west on RN 9 (page 257) Pilar is in the pampa on the Río Segundo.

Río Segundo Nearest town described: Córdoba 39 km north-west on RN 9 (page 257) Altitude 340 m; accommodation, gas station. Accommodation • Hospedaje Familiar, RN 9 near Peru @ (03572) 422165

Accommodation A Hotel Puente, Juan B Alberdi 1134 LP @ (03572) 470729 $G 2 A Residencial La Taberna de Adan, Juan B Alberdi LP @ (03572) 470207 $H 2

340

Stopovers

LA PAMPA PROVINCES

Plate 5 343 343 344 344 346 347 348 349 349 350 351 351 352 354 355 358 359 360

L La PAMPA A Pampa PAMPA

Map of La Pampa Province Bernardo Larroudé BCS Eduardo Castex CS General Acha CDEJKSUWqfgs Map General Pico ACESJMUVWfgpsu Map Guatraché BCSuv Intendente Alvear ACS Macachín CS Parque Nacional Lihué Calel CISUWbtv Realicó SC Santa Isabel CSv Santa Rosa BCDEnJKLMRSTUVWXYaipq Map of city center rsv Map of metropolitan Santa Rosa 25 De Mayo CESst Victorica CSUbpv Stopovers CES

he name of this province, La Pampa, is derived from a Quechua word meaning “flat country”. However, the landscape varies from flat steppe to undulating plains and low mountains. La Pampa is located in the center of Argentina, and shares borders with Neuquén and Mendoza in the west, Córdoba and San Luis in the north, Buenos Aires in the east, and Río Negro to the south, with the Río Negro forming the border. The highest mountains in the province are in the extreme north-west on the border with Mendoza Province; the highest is Cerro Negro at 1188 m.

T

341

La Pampa

PAMPA PROVINCES The main river is the Río Negro in the south. In the extreme west there are many salt flats. The construction of large dams in the upper reaches and tributaries of the Río Salado in the provinces of Mendoza and San Luis has deprived La Pampa province of much needed water in the dry regions in the west. The rain decreases from east to west, and in most parts of the province is insufficient for wheat crops. The highest rainfall is in the north-east, around 750 mm a year. Because of the shortage of precipitation, most cities depend on bore water, which is usually of good quality. The temperature oscillates between 40°C (105°F) in summer and –8°C (24°F) in winter. Irregular rainfall and long periods of dry spells characterize this province, and because of these harsh living conditions the population density is low: there are few large cities, and even the capital Santa Rosa has only about 65 000 inhabitants. Winters usually constitute the dry months, and can last until October. The wet season starts at the end of September and lasts until December. There is another short wet period towards the end of February. Hot strong winds are common and, according to the season, blow from the north and north-east. The pampero which comes up from the south brings cold weather. Sometimes the sudestacada blows from the south-east, bringing fogs and humidity. The dry conditions have shaped the landscape: algarrobo, prickly caldén, and chañar trees dominate. La Pampa was formerly the home of semi-nomadic Tehuelche Indians who were formidable

La Pampa

hunters. Around 1800, Araucanian peoples invaded the territory. Until the “pacification campaign” waged by the Argentines against the Araucanian people in 1879, Indian raiders made European settlement difficult. This changed after the Argentine army defeated the Indians and their famous leaders Pincen, Yanquetruz, Catriel Namuncura, and Calfucura. Between 1880 and 1890 most of the big estancias were established. It was only in 1951 that La Pampa was elevated to the status of province, and Santa Rosa, some 600 km south-west of Buenos Aires, established as its capital. The largest towns are Santa Rosa (population 65 000), General Pico (population 32 000), Realicó (population 13 000), and General Acha (population 8000). Although La Pampa is mostly a “transit” province for the tourist stream going south to Río Negro and Neuquén, it offers open, sparsely populated country for those seeking peace and quiet. You can travel for hours on excellent roads without seeing evidence of people on the landscape, especially in the western part. The economic heartland of the province is in the north-eastern sector which has adequate rainfall. The wide open spaces have a charm of their own. Some of the nature reserves are stocked with stags. The best known nature reserves are Parque Provincial Luro and Parque Nacional Lihué Calel, both of which have prehistoric rock paintings.

Hunting La Pampa is an outdoor province and the foremost hunting province in Argentina. The deer hunting season is from March to May, and the number is strictly regulated. The 342

LA PAMPA puma hunting season runs from January until July: the limit is two pumas per hunter per season. Export of trophies is also strictly regulated. Export permits for puma trophies have to be obtained from the

Dirección de Fauna y Flora Silvestre de La Nación, San Martín 459, Capital Federal @ 011-4394-1079.

BERNARDO LARROUDÉ

Bernardo Larroudé Population: 1500 Postal code: 6220 @ area code: (02302) Distance from General Pico: 79 km north on RN 188

B

ernardo Larroudé is located in the extreme north-eastern corner of the province where the provinces of Córdoba, Buenos Aires, and La Pampa meet, some 77 km north of General Pico. Its main manufacturing industry is linked to dairying.

C Accommodation

Of interest are the strongly mineralized thermal waters which emerge at 30°C (86°F); they are said to have curative properties such as stress relief and arthritis. The thermal center is located in a large park in a forested area; it has thermal swimming pools, change rooms, facilities for hydro massage and an attendant doctor.

*

•

E Eating out

•

Restaurant Parque Termal, M. Montiel

S Buses

•

B Tourist information •

Hotel Pampa, Roberto Pérez 102 near España AELPV @ 492122 Hospedaje Y.P.F., RN 188 at the entrance to town

•

Municipalidad @ 49220

Empresa 9 de Julio runs 2 services daily to and from General Pico Empresa La Estrella runs 3 services daily to and from Realicó

EDUARDO CASTEX

Eduardo Castex Population: 8500 Postal code: 6380 @ area code: (02334) Distance: Santa Rosa 81 km south on RN 35

E

duardo Castex is located halfway between Realicó and Santa Rosa about 3 km west of RN 35. It is the center of a rich agricultural area. Plaza San

343

Eduardo Castex

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Eduardo Castex *** *** *

• • • •

Hotel San Cristóbal, RN 35 KM 406 near access into town ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 453111 Hotel Cristal, RN 35 KM 405 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 452131 fax Hostería Hotel Sol de La Ciudad, Avenida Independencia 2008 AELPV @ 452957 Hospedaje La Terminal, Alem 1189 Hospedaje Ilmar, Zeballos 705 Hospedaje Shell, RN 5 near access into town Residencial San Nicolás, L.N. Alem 1189 @ 452524

Martín with its huge cuckoo clock is the center of town. It can be reached by frequent buses from Santa Rosa.

GENERAL ACHA

General Acha Population: 12 000 Postal code: 8200 @ area code: (02952) Distance from Santa Rosa: 103 km south on RN 35 then RN 152

G

eneral Acha is located in a depression called Valle de Utracán. It was founded as capital of the province in 1882 by Manuel J Campos, and is laid out in chess-board fashion, with the streets running north–south and east–west. The center of the town is Plaza General Belgrano.

D Camping

T

152

Restaurants • Club Social, Balcarce near M. de Hoz • El Parque, Campos 130. Parrilla

901

801

701

MORENO

BALCARCE

ESPAÑA

SEGOVIA 301

ESTACIÓN F.C. GENERAL ROCA

2

MARTÍNEZ DE HOZ 3

4

GARIBALDI

D AVELLANEDA

Hospedaje Gabel Hospedaje El Gringo

Plaza General Belgrano PADRE BUODO

A

4 Eating out

Restaurant Garibaldi Restaurant La Cita

C

CONESA

CHARIONE

General Acha

401

GENERAL SAN MARTÍN

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Post Office & Telex Bus terminal

3 Accommodation

3 4

501

1

Key to map

1 2

601

RODRÍGUEZ PEÑA

LAVALLE

A C D T

V. RODRÍGUEZ

1101 1001 DORREGO

M.J. CAMPOS

FRAGA

GARRIDO

GENERAL ROCA

E Eating out

BRANDSEN

344

GENERAL ACHA

To Bahía Blanca and Santa Rosa

152

N

Parque Manuel J. Campo GENERAL ALVEAR

•

To Neuquén

Parque Manuel J Campos, RN 152 KM 25 at the access into town; forested area, restaurant, open all year Laguna de Utracán, Utracán, 14 km north of General Acha on RP 9; forested; open in tourist season only

FARIAS

•

LA PAMPA C Accommodation in General Acha Hosterías *

Anahi Ruca, Balcarce 897

F

@

432214

@ @

436459 432568

@

423607

@ @

432458 432515

Hospedajes • • • •

Don Antonio, Castels El Gringo, Martínez de Hoz 373 Gabel, Dorrego 432 La Candela, Balcarce 632

Accommodation outside General Acha Hotel ECOP 1o, RN 152 KM 29 near España E * Motel Los Molles, RN 152 KM 26.5 F • Hotel Novo Hotel, RN 152 KM 29 • Hospedaje Poyen Ruca, RN 152 KM 28

**

• Garibaldi, Garibaldi 881 • La Cita, Garibaldi 745 Cafeterías • La Plaza, Don Bosco 515. Dancing • Swat, General Campos near Martínez de Hoz. Dancing Eating out on RN 152 • Restaurant El Parador KM 28.5 • Restaurant El Jabalí, KM 28

•

I Post and telegraph •

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, Avellaneda 795

S Buses

The bus terminal is on RN 152, opposite Parque Manuel J Campos. T A Chevallier, TUP, El Valle, Tirsa, and El Zorzal run buses to Buenos Aires, Neuquén, Córdoba, and Bariloche. • Bus del Sur, V. Rodríguez 655 @ 432232 • El Aguilucho Mahuida via ° Limay Chacharramendi

•

U Motoring •

Service station: Shell, RN 152 E

s Excursions •

Balneario Utracán: 15 km north on RP 9. It is a typical pampa region with a 70 ha (173 acre) highly saline lake, on which it is possible to water ski

345

and hire boats. The area is situated in groves of caldén trees Quehué: 39 km north on RP 9. One of the oldest settlement of the province, Quehué was a saw-milling town around the turn of the century— consequently not many of the original caldén trees remain. Now the town is the starting point for hunting expeditions in the area for wild boar and stags Padre Angel Buodo: Located at the intersection of RN 152 and RN 35, some 25 km east. Padre Buodo was a Salesian priest who worked as a missionary here. The museum is open daily 10:00–18:00 Pulpería de Chacharramendi. This pulpería is a rehabilitated “gaucho bar” located some 126 km west of General Acha on RN 143. It is also known as El Viejo Almacén or “old store”. With the advance of Western civilization in the 1880s stores sprang up all over the pampa to cater for the needs of the new settlers and also serve as meeting places and “watering holes” to help them forget the harsh conditions of the frontier life. Most of them are gone now, but this one has been saved from oblivion, refurbished without destroying the character, allowing the modern-day traveler a glimpse of those early days.

General Acha

PAMPA PROVINCES

GENERAL PICO

General Pico Population: 42 500 Postal code: 6360 @ area code: (02302) Altitude: 143 m Distance from Santa Rosa: 131 km north-east on RP 35 then RP 102

G

eneral Pico is located in the north-eastern part of the province, center of an agricultural area. It is an important crossroads; RP 1 and RP 101 intersect here. The town was founded in 1905 by Eduardo de Chapeaurouge.

E Eating out

The climate is moderate and dry, with temperatures of 45°C (113°F) in summer and –10°C (14°F) in winter. Most of the rain falls between October and April. Note that streets are designated by both numbers and names. The hub of town is bounded by Avenida San Martín, General B. Mitre, L.N. Alem, and Calle 19.

Restaurants • Cordón Bleu, Calle 17–1050. Seafood • El Jupiter, Calle 22–733 • Galería, Calle 17–954. Seafood • La Parrilla, Calle 7–540 • La Rueda, Avenida San Martín 175. Parrilla • La Ruta, RN 101 near 26 • Rincón de Ursula, near Aero club

C Accommodation in General Pico ** *

Hotel Pico, Calle 17–1013 Fax 422735 Hotel Labarraz, Calle 8–1134

ADEFGKMPY AEFGHLP$TV

@ @

$F

2

433100/434422 $F 421894

2

421364 433250

Hosterías Cauí, Calle 9–192 Oeste near Calle 104 Fax 431837 ACDEFGHJKLPR$TUVY @ • Scansetti (Malo’s), Calle 24–630 GLPTVY @

***

Hospedajes

• Antonella, Calle 18–665 • Centenario, Calle 22–776

Accommodation on RP 101 **

Motel Brisa, near Calle 9

Key to map C D E P $ T

Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica Argentina A.C.A. Banco de la Nación Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 2 3 7

Hostería Malo’s Hospedaje Centenario Hotel Pico

General Pico

PV PV

@ @

421204 422760

ADEFGHJLP$TUVY

@

422712 fax 424383

13 Hospedaje Antonella 16 Hotel Labarraz 17 Hostería Cauí

5 Entertainment

4 Eating out

15 Museo Regional Maracó

6 8 9 10 11 12

Cafetería Cordón Bleu Cafetería Bar Suizo Cafetería Antü Piñen Cafetería O’Lar Cafetería Quo Vadis Cafetería Galería

346

5

Cinema

9 Sights

0 Services

1 Localiza 4 Laverap 14 Ferrocarril D.F. Sarmiento

LA PAMPA

F. AMEGHINO

28

ECHEVERRÍA

26

M. DE IRIGOYEN

24

GRAL . B. MITRE

22

9 DE JULIO

20

GRAL . M. BELGRANO

18

GRAL . J. M. GÜEMES

17

15

25 DE MAYO

12 DE OCTUBRE

20 DE SEPTIEMBRE

11

9

7

13

ESPAÑA

L .N. ALEM

J.B. JUSTO

30

To General Alvear

GENERAL PICO

1

2

3

$

D

6 4

7

5

P

9 8

Plaza San Martín

10 11

19 E. DE CHAPEAUROUGE

1 T

12

13 E

14

Plaza España

AVE. SAN MARTÍN C

16

ITALIA

14

GRAL . J.A . ROCA

N

15 12

B. RIVADAVIA

10

F. MAGGIOROT TI

L . DE LA TORRE

CALLE 102

Plaza Plaza General General Pic o Pic o

A . ETCHETO

2

27

H. YRIGOYEN

J.M. ESTRADA

4

25

1 DE MAYO

GRAL . J.J. DE URQUIZA

6

23

M. MORENO

21

8

D.F. SARMIENTO

16

FRATERNIDAD

To Córdoba

1

102

17 CALLE 104

To Santa Rosa

347

General Pico

PAMPA PROVINCES S Buses from General Pico

The bus terminal is on General Mitre block 500 near 20 de Setiembre. • Autotransporte General Pico ° Santa Isabel via Eduardo Castex, Victorica, and Telén; 3 weekly • Empresa Barón ° Colonia Barón • Empresa 9 de Julio ° Bernardo Larroudé via Intendente Alvear; 2 daily ° Caleufú via Trenel and Arata ° Rancul via Ojeda, Realicó, and Quetrequén • Empresa Dumas ° Santa Rosa ($5.50; 2 hrs); 5 daily • T.A. Chevallier ° Buenos Aires ($33.40; 8 hrs) via Santa Rosa

M Services and facilities

Cafeterías • Antü Piñen, Calle 15–921 • Bar Suizo, Calle 15–928 • O’Lar, Calle 20–783 • Quo Vadis, Calle 17–978

•

U Motoring

• •

n Entertainment •

Cinema, Belgrano block 601 near 20 de Octubre

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, 9 de Julio near 20 de Septiembre Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, San Martín block 601 near 20 de Setiembre

•

L Financial •

A.C.A., España near General Belgrano Car rental: Localiza, Calle 15–1532

p Sightseeing

•

I Post and telegraph •

Laundromat: Laverap, General Belgrano (formerly Calle 20) 486

Parque Recreativo Benicio Delfín Pérez. Located south-east of the city; it incorporates Laguna La Arocena of 150 ha (370 acre). Camping spot and hire of boats and water skis Museo Regional Maracó, Calle 17–560

s Excursions

Banco de la Nación, 25 de Mayo near 9 de Julio

•

Intendente Alvear: 51 km north. See page 349

GUATRACHÉ

Guatraché Postal code: 6311 @ area code: (02953) Distance from Santa Rosa: 181 km north-east on RN 35 and RP 24 (a gravel road)

T

his agricultural town is located close to the border of Buenos Aires province. Of interest is Laguna Guatraché 12 km south of town, with its thermal waters and a flamingo colony. The thermal water at 32° C (90° F) contains chloride, sulphates, calcium, and magnesium, and its therapeutic properties are said to help against arthritis and varicose ulcers. Attached is a hotel with restaurant and café.

Guatraché

348

LA PAMPA C Accommodation

The area around the laguna has been declared a natural protection zone. There is a tourist park here with camping facilities. Estancia Minezota, a Mennonite settlement, is located 30 km west.

• •

Hospedaje El Puba, Zeballos 563 Hospedaje La Chacra, Roca 16 near Avellaneda @ 492023 At Alpachiri 42 km north is the small Hospedaje Español.

S Buses

•

B Tourist information •

Termas de Guatraché: @ 492005 fax

Empresa El Zorzal runs five services weekly from Santa Rosa via Macachín.

INTENDENTE ALVEAR

Intendente Alvear Population: 6000 Postal code: 6221 @ area code: (02303) Distance from General Pico: 51 km south on RP 1

L

ocated in the extreme north-east corner of the province near Buenos Aires province, this is a rich farming area.

C Accommodation

Polo tournaments are held at the Club de Polo Chapaleufú. In January a very lively gaucho festival is celebrated. In Avenida San Martín near Avellaneda is the ciprés histórico marking the spot where a Franciscan chapel stood long before the foundation of the town.

**

•

Hostería Pepa, 25 de Mayo 1141 AEFGJLPUV @ 481005 Hospedaje Alsina, Access to Fortín Alsina

S Buses

La Estrella runs two services daily from General Pico and two services weekly from Santa Rosa.

MACACHÍN

Macachín Population: 4000 Postal code: 6307 @ area code: (02953) Distance: Santa Rosa 112 km north via RN 35 and RP 18

O

f interest are the Salinas Grandes de Hidalgo, 13 km south of Macachín, which were exploited for salt during colonial times— indeed a section of the old Spanish colonial road from Buenos Aires to Chile passed through here. During the nineteenth century it was the domain of indigenous tribes, the

most famous of which was that of Cacique Calfacura.

349

Macachín

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Macachín

Hotel Euzko Alkartasuna, Parodi 340 AEFGHJPRUVY Fax 452156 * Hostería Don Quijote, Intersection RP 1 and RP 18 AELPV • Hospedaje Pérez, Parodi 261

**

@

452045

@

452554

Accommodation in Doblas

• Hospedaje Ga–Lo, España 457

Thirty-one kilometers before arriving in Macachín is the turnoff to the village of Doblas with a small hotel and restaurant. Doblas is the

starting point for hunting expeditions.

PARQUE NACIONAL LIHUÉ CALEL

Parque Nacional Lihué Calel Distance from Santa Rosa: 226 km south-west on RN 35 then RN 152

T

his national park of approximately 10 000 ha (24 700 acre) is located in the southern part of the province. It was created in 1977 to preserve the unusual flora encountered in this area. The backdrop to the park is the low Sierra de Lihué Calel , forming a 15 km horseshoe. During the past century this was the last hide-out of the Indian tribes who, under Chief Namuncura, invaded La Pampa from Chile. The caves and walls in particular in the Valle de Las Pinturas abound with rock paintings, indicating an unbroken occupation of the area from prehistoric times. The mountain ranges reach only 600 m. The Valle de Los Angelitos in the Sierra de La Vida was the burial ground of ancient tribes. In some areas there are still some “Piedras Movedizas”, huge boulders which are delicately balanced on the rocks. Inside the park are the ruins of the Estancia Santa Mónica. The microclimate of the area allows species of widely

Parque Nacional Lihué Calel

different habitats to coexist in a very small area.

C Accommodation *

Hospedaje A.C.A., RN 152 KM 146 AELPV @ (02952) 43101 near national park entrance; not always open but bus drivers to Neuquén will know

I Post and telegraph

There is a post office at the A.C.A. service station.

S Buses

•

Empresa T.A. Chevallier runs two services daily to Neuquén (5 hrs) and Santa Rosa (3 hrs)

U Motoring

•

350

Service station: A.C.A.

LA PAMPA

REALICÓ

Realicó Population: 5500 Postal code: 6200 @ area code: (02331) Distance from Santa Rosa: 178 km north on RN 35

R

ealicó is the northernmost town in Province La Pampa directly on the border of Province Córdoba. It is an important crossroads for north–south and east–west traffic: RN 35 and RN 188 intersect here.

C Accommodation *** **

• •

S Buses

•

Motel Yan-Calla, Acceso Dr. Ricardo Balbín ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 462009 Hostería Realicó, RN 188 KM 478 access into town AEFGJLPUV @ 462887 Hospedaje Juan José, Italia 1539 @ 462052 Hospedaje San Martín, San Martín 1743

• •

TUS/TUP runs services between Córdoba and Santa Rosa Jocolí runs services between San Luis and Santa Rosa La Unión runs bus services between General Pico and Rancul.

SANTA ISABEL

Santa Isabel @ area code: (02338) Distance from Santa Rosa: 288 km west on RP 10 and RN 5

S

anta Isabel is located in the extreme north-western corner of the province, reached on RP 10, a dirt road.

Santa Isabel and Algarrobo del Águila are located in an area where the Río Atuel coming from Mendoza Province and the Río Salado coming from San Luis Province lose their strength and dissolve into or form huge swamps. Another 113 km further west beyond Algarrobo del Águila starting at Estancia La Humada, is a mountainous zone with the highest peaks in La Pampa Province. Although a dry area for most of the year, there are perennial springs (Agua de Torres and Agua Escondida) in the mountains but

hikers should seek information at the estancia. Note: This is puma country.

C Accommodation

• •

Hospedaje A.C.A., RN 143 KM 344 @ 493102 La Marianita. This estancia has opened its doors to tourists

S Buses

Empresa Auto Transporte General Pico runs three services weekly from Santa Rosa to Algarrobo del Águila; Empresa Las Tres Marías runs one service weekly from Victorica to Santa Isabel and Algarrobo del Águila; if required the buses continue to Estancia La Humada.

351

Santa Isabel

PAMPA PROVINCES

SANTA ROSA

Santa Rosa Population: 77 000 Postal code: 6300 @ area code: (02954) Altitude: 177 m Distances From Bahía Blanca: 327 km north-west on RN 35 • From Buenos Aires: 607 km south-east on RN 5 •

S

anta Rosa, the capital of La Pampa, is located in the central eastern part of the province, near Laguna Don Tomás. It was founded by Tomás Mason in 1892. The first settlement was Estancia La Malvina, some 3 km from the town center. In 1904 Santa Rosa became capital of • the then Territorio Nacional La & • Pampa to replace the town of Gen• eral Acha. Although it progressed slowly at first, Santa Rosa is now a & • modern city. The center of town is • • Avenida San Martín between Avenida Luro (with the magnificent • Casa de Gobierno) and the corner of Avenida Avellaneda and Mitre.It • has good tourist facilities, and buses • run frequently to Buenos Aires and Neuquén. • Also included are the tourist facilities and sights of Toay, 10 km • west.

Caníbal, Pellegrini 132 Chino Santa Rosa, Avenida Roca 241. Chinese cuisine Chino Tai Feng, Pellegrini 43. Chinese cuisine Club Español, H. Lagos 237 Don Francisco, Lagos 477. Parrilla El Nuevo Molino, Avenida Spinetto 1163 El Pato, Avenida Luro 502 and L de La Torre. Parrilla El Rancho de Pampa Cuatro, Corrientes 69. Parrilla Incontro, Avenida San Martín 695. Parrilla La Candela, Avenida Luro 290. Parrilla La Colonia, Avenida Spinetto 1099. Parrilla • La Taberna de José, Avenida Luro B Tourist information block 200 near H Yrigoyen • Dirección Provincial de Turismo, • La Terminal, Luro near Corrientes. Avenida Luro near San Martín oppo24-hour service site bus terminal @ 425060; Mon–Fri • Los Pinos, Avenida Spinetto 815 07:00–20:00, Sat-Sun 09:00–12:00 • Pampa, Catamarca 15 • Centro de Información Turística Mu- & • San Martín, Pellegrini 115. Parrilla nicipal, Avenida Luro 336 • Señor Quintana, Urquiza 336. Parrilla • Dirección de Fauna, Centro Cívico, Pizzerías 3rd floor @ 433010 ext. 306/328 • Mar-Jor, España 87 & • Pizza Pizuela, Gil 520 D Camping • Municipal Laguna Don Tomás, Cafeterías Avenida Roca 1000 AFRT; wooded • Cádiz, 9 de Julio 30. Dancing • El Café de Sonia, Quintana 77 E Eating out • El Sol, H Yrigoyen 50. Dancing • Gotán, J.B. Justo 278 Restaurants • La Barra, 9 de Julio 114 • Big Bang, Avenida Spinetto 960 • Borsalino, Avenida Luro 444

Santa Rosa

352

LA PAMPA C Accommodation in Santa Rosa Hotels **** * * * *

Hotel Calfacurá, San Martín 695 ACDEFGHLMNPR$STUVY Fax 433303 @ Caldén, Avenida Presidente Illia near Tello ACDEHLP$STVY @ Residencial Caldén, Avenida Spinetto 820 ADEHLPTVY @ San Martín, Avenida Alsina 101 opposite rail station AEFHLP$TVY @ Tredy, Spinetto 35 AFP @

Hosterías

&

* * * *

Casablanca, Avenida Spinetto 302 La Estancia, Paul Harris 780 Río Atuel, Avenida Luro 356 Santa Rosa, H Yrigoyen 696

ACDEHLPSTVY AELPV AEHLP$TVY AEHLPV

Hospedajes

B Arias, Dante Aleghieri 1097 EHLPRVY B San Carlos, Ameghino 602 PTVY B Residencial Mitre, Emilio Mitre 76 near bus terminal ELP$V

Motels **

Mini Bungalows, E Mitre 975

AEFGJLPUV

423608

$D

2

427557 fax

$G

2

425995 fax 436663 422549 fax 422098

$G $H

2 2

@ @ @ @

436388 430537 422597 423868

$G $H

2 2

$H

2

@ @

422874 425736

$H

2

@

425432

@

428961

$G

2

Accommodation on Circunvalación Santiago Marzo Avenida de Circunvalación Santiago Marzo starts on Laguna Don Tomás and becomes a major by-pass on the eastern side of town. Most hotels shown below are located on this segment. *** *

Hotel Lihuel Calel, Santiago Marzo 2535 @ Fax 427236 ACDEFGHJKLMPR$TUVY Hostería Hotel La Estancia, Santiago Marzo Este 1148 AEFHLMP$TV @

Accommodation on RN 35 Motels *** *

Caldén, KM 330 near airport Fax 432346 Rucalén, Avenida Luro 2500

**

Hotel La Campiña, KM 604 Motel A.C.A., KM 606

424311 429333

@ @

456800 424067

@

492236

ADEFGHJPTUVY

Accommodation in Toay

• Hospedaje Florida, Sarmiento

$F

2

$F

2

$G

2

430537

ACDEFGHJKLMPRTUVY @ AEHLPV @

Accommodation on RN 5 ****

423001

Estancias Turísticas

• Villaverde, RN 35 10 km north of Santa Rosa on RN 35. This is a large estancia which has been turned into a tourist complex; all meals included @ 438764 $E 1

• & • •

La Capital, Avellaneda near H & • Yrigoyen • La Recova, Avellaneda block 200 • (corner of H Lagos) Las Viñas, González 754. Dancing

353

Nairobi Pub, 9 de Julio block 0 near Avellaneda Paloko’s, Gil 31. Bowling Pampa Bar, Gil block 300 near San Martín

Santa Rosa

PAMPA PROVINCES To Buenos Aires

SANTA ROSA

Plaza Independenc ia

5

S

PADRE BUODO

E

CORRIENTES

M

EMILIO MITRE

E

CÓRDOBA

Ü

PUEYRREDÓN

G 35

OLIVER

To Neuquén and Bahía Blanca

10

AVE. ESPAÑA

9

B. O'HIGGINS

11 12 13

8

L .N. ALEM

I

7

L . DE LA TORRE

6

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

H. YRIGOYEN

H.LAGOS

GARIBALDI

T. MANSON

N

TO

CHACO

URQUIZA

L .V. MANSILLA

NI

M.T. DE ALVEAR

1 DE MAYO

L.

MI

To Realicó and Córdoba

A

CA

FORMOSA

B

1

T

AVE. PEDRO LURO

AVE. A . SPINET TO 5

4

3

R

35

2

SANTA FE

G

ENTRE RÍOS

Plaza Don Bosc o

M. PAMPEANOS

SAN JORGE

CACIQUE M. ROSAS

Centro Civico

14 15 16 ESTRADA

MORENO

ALMTE. BROWN

RIVADAVIA D

E

18

17 FERRO

25 DE MAYO 21 19 20

P

Plaza San Martín

C

CNEL . GIL

RAÚL B. DIAZ

24 23 22

26

27

25

34

SALTA

37

35 $

AVE. URUGUAY

33 32

DON BOSCO

$

PELLEGRINI 36

$

ESCALANTE

30

A

J.B. JUSTO

29

9 DE JULIO

QUINTANA

28

AVE. B. MITRE

AVELLANEDA 31

AVE. GRAL J.A . ROCA

S. DEL ESTERO

SARMIENTO

AVE. ALSINA

LA RIOJA

GRAL . PICO

38

39 40

JUJUY

VILLEGAS

ANT. ARGENTINA

GONZÁLEZ 43

42

MAIPÚ

CERVANTES

To Laguna Don Tomás

Santa Rosa

354

To Toay

41

LA PAMPA Key to map A B

9 Restaurant Borsalino 10 Restaurant El Pato 12 Restaurant Señor Quintana 14 Restaurant Don Francisco 17 Restaurant Club Español 20 Cafetería Pampa Bar 25 Cafetería Parada Luna 26 Pizzería Pizza Pizuela 27 Pizzería Mar-Jor 28 Restaurant Tai Feng 29 Restaurant San Martín 30 Cafetería El Café de Sonia 35 Restaurant Caníbal 37 Cafetería La Barra 39 Restaurant Chino Santa Rosa 40 Cafetería Gotán 48 Centro Recreativo Don Tomás

Iglesia Catedral Gobernación Provincial (Government) Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica Argentina Dirección Provincial de Turismo and Centro de Información Turística Municipal A.C.A. Banco de La Pampa Bus terminal

C D E I

P $ T

3 Accommodation 2 3 7 11 13 33 47

Hospedaje Tredy Residencial Mitre Hostería Río Atuel Hostería Santa Rosa Hotel Calfacurá Hotel San Martín Camping Municipal Laguna Don Tomás

5 Entertainment 15 19 22 23 31 38

4 Eating out 1 4 6

Restaurant La Terminal Restaurant El Rancho de Pampa Cuatro Restaurant La Candela

Casino Club Cafetería Paloko’s Teatro Español Cine Monumental Cafetería Cádiz Disco Jockey

To Córdoba

44

N

To Toay

SEE CENTRO

35

SANTA ROSA METROPOLITANA

O MAR ZO

AVE. ESPAÑA

18 Austral

7 Tour operators and car rental 5 Dicar Turismo 16 Localiza

9 Sights

36 Museo Histórico Provincial 41 Museo Provincial de Artes

0 Services 8 21 24 32 34 42 44 45 46

Artesanías Argentinas Foto Laboratorio YTC Aero Club Pampeano Estación Ferrocarril Sarmiento Souvenir shop Club de Caza Mayor y Menor Airport Cemetary Centro Cívico

n Entertainment

5 46

• • • •

CIÓ N IGR . SAN TIAG

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

6 Airline offices

• Parada Luna, Yrigoyen 43 Eating out on Circunvalación Santiago Marzo Restaurants • Alberto, Santiago Marzo 2196. Parrilla • El Tío, Santiago Marzo 2512. Parrilla • La Estancia, Santiago Marzo 1006. Parrilla & • Las Brasas, Avenida Santiago Marzo Este 192. Parrilla Eating out in Toay • Restaurant Quincho de Don Pepe, Avenida 9 de Julio 172. Parrilla Casino Club, H. Lagos 467 Cine Monumental, H. Lagos 70 Disco Jockey, 9 de Julio 234 Teatro Español, H. Lagos 44

I Post and telegraph

•

AVE . DE CIRC UNV ALA

48

H. YRIGOYEN

AVE. PEDRO LURO

47

AVE. B. MITRE

Do Lag n un To a m ás

To Buenos Aires

45

35

43 Cafetería Las Viñas

•

Post office: Correo Argentino, corner of H Lagos and Rivadavia Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, H Lagos 258 near Rivadavia

To Neuquén and Bahía Blanca

355

Santa Rosa

PAMPA PROVINCES S Buses from Santa Rosa

The bus terminal is in Avenida Luro 365 on the north side of the civic center. Restaurant El Terminal has 24 hour service. Clean rest rooms. Bus companies • Autotransporte General Pico ° Algarrobo del Águila • El Indio, Formosa 55 @ 426753 ° Toay; 36 daily ° Victorica via Winifreda and Telén; 5 weekly • El Zorzal @ 429152/427285 ° General Acha (1 1 2hrs); 4 daily ° Guatraché ($10.00; 2 hs) via Macachín ($5.50); Mon, Wed, Thurs, Sat, Sun • El Vasquito ° Quemú Quemú via Winifreda and Colonia Barón • Expreso Alberino @ 453780 • Expreso Catriló ° Catriló (11 2 hrs) via Uriburu; 2 dailyExpreso Norte ° Ingeniero Luiggi via Winifreda, Eduardo Castex, and Arata; 5 weekly • SACARA, Avenida Luro 1430 @ 428903 ° Parque Nacional Lihué Calel ($15.00); Mon, Wed, Fri 06:30; 31 2 hrs • Transporte Don Pascual local 1 @ 421855 Bus companies with own terminal • Empresa Dumas, M. Argentina 863 @ 434572 • Expreso Anguil SRL, Entre Ríos 162 @ 432514 • A5 Alto Valle ° 25 de Mayo via General Acha ($5.50, 11 2 hrs) and Chacharramendi; 1 daily • A33 T.A. Chevallier @ 427056 • A71 El Rápido SRL local 11 @ 431113 • A81 Empresa Andesmar, 432841 • A99 Expreso Jocolí • A101 Liniers • A107 Empresa Pehuenche • A155 La Estrella @ 432841 ° Intendente Alvear via General Pico • A211 T.A.C. @ 437779 • A217 Ticsa • A218 Tirsa • A251 TUS/TUP @ 432140 ° Parque Nacional Lihué Calel; 1 daily • A262 El Valle • A296 Dumas @ 432303 ° Bernardo Larroudé; 4 daily ° Embajador Martini; 1 daily ° General Pico via Winifreda and Eduardo Castex; 5 daily ° General Pico via Catriló and Quemú Quemú; 5 daily ° Ingeniero Luiggi via Winifreda, Eduardo Castex, Trenel, Arata and Caleufú

Santa Rosa

356

LA PAMPA Buses from Santa Rosa — continued Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Bahía Blanca Bariloche $58.00 Buenos Aires $30.00 Caleta Olivia Comodoro Rivadavia Córdoba $26.40 Junín de los Andes La Plata Mar del Plata Mendoza Neuquén $28.00 Rawson Rosario San Juan San Luis San Rafael Santiago del Estero San Martín de Los Andes Tandil Trelew $46.00 Viedma

Services 4 daily 4 daily 6 daily 3 weekly 3 weekly 3 daily 1 daily 1 daily 1 daily 9 daily 3 weekly 2 weekly 3 weekly 1–2 daily 2 daily 1 daily 3 weekly

Duration 4 1 2 hrs 21 hrs 7 hrs 19 hrs

Company A81, A251 A33, A218 A33, A107, A155 A81, A211, A251 A81, A211, A251 A251 A251 A101 A71 12 hrs A81, A99 8 hrs A5, A33, A107, A218, A262 A251 A218 A217 A99, A217, A296 A81 A251 A33 A71 A251 A217

•

L Financial • •

Bansud, Quintana 163 @ 22748. ATM Banco de La Pampa, Pellegrini 255 @ 433008. ATM

T Trains

The rail station is on Alsina, opposite Pellegrini. Trains arrive in Buenos Aires at Once station. • Buenos Aires: Departs 20:00 Sun, Wed, Fri; 13 hours

M Services and facilities •

Photography: Laboratorio YTC, Avenida San Martín 145

R Air services •

•

Car rental: Localiza, Yrigoyen 411 1st floor @ 425773

Y Austral, Rivadavia 256 @ 422388 • ° Buenos Aires (1 hr) via Viedma; Mon, Tues, Wed, Thurs, Fri at • 09:15, 10:40, 16:15 Kaikén Líneas Aéreas, at airport ° Córdoba (1hr); Mon, Wed, Thurs & • at 19:25 ° Río Grande via Bahía Blanca, a Trelew, Comodoro Rivadavia, • and Río Gallegos; Tues, Thurs, Fri at 09:20 •

U Motoring

Service stations • A.C.A., corner of San Martín and Gil F Maps available • Esso, Avenida Luro 832

•

357

Shopping

Artesanías Argentinas, Avenida Luro 430. Souvenirs Mercado Artesanal, Avenida Luro near San Martín Souvenir shop, Pellegrini 86. Gaucho items

Sport

Flying: Aero Club Pampeano, Gil 222 @ 423785 Golf: Jockey Club Santa Rosa RN 5 KM 603 @ 423465/425467. International standard, fine clubhouse and swimming pool Hunting: Club de Caza Mayor y Menor, J.V. González 30 @ 424198

Santa Rosa

PAMPA PROVINCES p Sightseeing •

• •

Museo Histórico Provincial (Provincial History Museum), Pellegrini 180. Local history and natural sciences Museo Provincial de Artes (Provincial Art Museum), 9 de Julio 305 Centro Recreativo Don Tomás (Don Tomás Recreation Center). Situated on the 350 ha (865 acre) Laguna Don Tomás, it is a reafforested area with camping facilities

•

s Excursions Tour operators • Dicar Turismo, Formosa 55 @ 430125 fax Excursions • Toay: A small town with a population of 5500 located about 10 km west in rolling hills. It was founded in the eighteenth century by Guillermo Brown as a military outpost and indeed it still is a garrison town. Coming from Santa Rosa on Avenida Perón is Club Caza y Pesca situated in a caldén forest with camping and a regional mini zoo. In Calle 13 de Caballería near Bulevar 9 de Julio is

Casa de La Cultura Olga Orozco which includes the Museo Cívico Militar. On Plaza Guillermo Brown is the house of the town’s founder. It is a favorite weekend retreat Reserva Parque Luro: 35 km south on RN 35. Covering 7500 ha (18 530 acre), it was acquired by the provincial government in 1965 and converted into a provincial reserve to preserve the flora and fauna prevalent in the area. Its originator Pedro O. Luro, founded it as a prestigious hunting lodge-cum-commercial enterprise in the 1880s; it was then still a frontier outpost. There is a variety of wildlife such as pheasants, deer, and stags which proliferated after being imported from Europe. The castillo was built by Don Antonio Maura, a Spanish aristocrat. There is a visitors’ center and the various paths have Araucanian names in honor of the tribes who roamed these areas before the Argentine “pacification”. Open Wed–Sun 09:00–19:00; small admission charge

25 DE MAYO

25 de Mayo Population: 4500 Postal code: 8307 @ area code: (0299) Distance from Santa Rosa: 411 km south-west on RN 35, RN 152 and RP 20

2

5 de Mayo is a pleasant surprise after crossing the dry part of La Pampa Province which extends west from General Acha. It is a fairly new, modern town situated on the east bank of the Río Colorado on RN 151, some 8 km south of Dique Punto Unido. The dam which spans the river also serves as a bridge: its water is used to irrigate the fields around 25 de Mayo. Near the town is the important natural gas field of “El Medanito”. The area is flat. On the other side of the river Neuquén Province begins.

C Accommodation ***

*

Hotel Cruce del Desierto, intersection of RN 151 and RP 20 ACDEFGJKLPTUVYACFGJKLPTUVY @ 4948264

25 de Mayo

*

358

Hostería Hotel Lorca, Avenida Santa Rosa near General Pico AELPV @ 4948006 Hostería Residencial Bardas, Don Bosco near Colonia Barón AELPV @ 4948079

LA PAMPA *

•

U Motoring

Motel A.C.A., RN 151 near Puente Dique AELPV @ 4948064 Residencial Cumelén, General Pico 889 HPV @ 4948015

•

s Excursions

•

E Eating out • •

Y.P.F. service station

Restaurant La Recova, San Martín 98 Cafetería Bigote, General Pico 799

S Buses

The bus terminal is on General Pico near E. Castex. • Empresa Alto Valle has daily services to Santa Rosa and Neuquén

Casa de Piedra: 67km south. This is the name of the dam which was built on the Río Colorado to tame its excesses: floods and drought. The dam is 11 km long and has created a lake of 36 000 ha (89 000 acre). Nearby archeological sites have been found going back 8500 years

VICTORICA

Victorica Population: 5000 Postal code: 6319 @ area code: (02338) Distance from Santa Rosa: 153 km north-west on RN 35 and RP 10

V

ictorica is the gateway to the far north-western corner of La Pampa Province. Located 153 km north-west of Santa Rosa, it is reached on RN 35 and RP 10. •

The oldest town in La Pampa Province, it is steeped in military tradition going back to the 1880 when this was the last frontier. Nearby is a reserva faunística where 80 species of pampa animals roam. The tourist facilities are suitable for low-budget travelers interested in detours off the beaten path.

Hospedaje Ahi-Lee, Calle 17–981 @ (02338) 432085 • Residencial Marcelito, Calle 17–901 @ (02338) 432555 Accommodation in Carro Quemado • Estancia Turística La Marianita, Reservations: @ (02338) 496012

S Bus services

•

A Festivals

In October the Fiesta Provincial de La Ganadería (Rural cattle and horse show) is held in the Parque de Los Pisaderos.

•

C Accommodation

•

*

Las Tres Marías ° La Humada via Telén, Santa Isabel, and Algarrobo del Águila Auto Transporte General Pico runs services to General Pico

U Motoring

Hostería Mazamet, Calle 15–751 AELPV @ (02338) 432201

359

Y.P.F. service station, Calle 15–1185

Victorica

PAMPA PROVINCES

Stopovers

I

STOPOVERS

n this section I have listed those towns which are not on the normal tourist trail but have some facilities.

Catriló Nearest town described: Santa Rosa 82 km west on RN 5 (page 352) Catriló, with a population of 2700, is located on the border with Buenos Aires Province. • Hospedaje Mon Robe, RN 5 KM 527 @(02335) 4911259 • HospedajeLos Dos Panchos, Avenida Viale near H Yrigoyen Colonia Barón Nearest town described: General Pico 50 km north on RP 3, a gravel road (page 346) Located halfway between Winifreda and Quemú Quemú at the intersection of RP 10 and RP 3. • Hospedaje Ga-Lo, España 457 @(02333) 476252 • Hospedaje Pampa, Avenida San Martín 1232 @(02333) 476119 Embajador Martini Nearest town described: Realicó 40 km north on RN 35 (page 351) • Hospedaje Terminal, Terminal de Omnibus @(02335) 495052 General San Martín Nearest town described: General Acha 68 km north-west on RN 35 and RN 152 (page 344) Located on the main road to Bahía Blanca near the border with Buenos Aires Province. • Hospedaje Lilo, Roldán near 25 de Mayo @(02925) 497340

La Adela Nearest town described: Santa Rosa 272 km north on RN 35 and RN 154 (page 352); postal code: 8134 La Adela the southernmost town in La Pampa province., located on the Río Negro opposite the town of Río Negro. It is a stopover when traveling to or from Bahía Blanca. • Motel A.C.A. Caleu-Caleu, RN 22 KM 857 Miguel Riglos Nearest town described: Santa Rosa, 75 km north-east on RP 1 (page 352) • Hospedaje El Ciervo, Avenida Belgrano 771 Parera Nearest town described: Realicó, 33 km east on RP on RP 9 (page 351) • Hospedaje Los Enanitos, Belgrano 271 Quemú Quemú Nearest town described: General Pico 53 km north on RP 1 (page 346); population: 3500 • Hospedaje Residencial Monterrío, Rivadavia 345 @(02333)42308 Rancul Nearest town described: Realicó 47 km east on RN 188 (page 351); population: 2500 • Hospedaje Oásis, Rivadavia 445 • Hospedaje Patrucco, San Martín 340 Winifreda Nearest town described: Santa Rosa 48 km south on RN 5 (page 352)

Ingeniero Luiggi Nearest town described: Realicó 55 km north on RP 2 and RN 35 (page 351) A bit off the beaten path; the turnoff from RN 35 is at Embajador Martini. * Hotel El Sol, 9 de Julio 274 @ (02335) 472219 ** Hostería Niñatum, Rivadavia near Paso AEFGJLPUV @ (02335) 472227

Stopovers

Accommodation • Hotel Epu-Pehuén, 25 de Mayo 366 near Sarmiento @ (02333) 497500 • Residencial Cervantes, Sarmiento near Primera Junta Restaurants • Argentinísima, RN 35. Parrilla • La Terminal, Sarmiento • San Cayetano, Sarmiento

360

SANTA FE PANTA S Santa AMPA FeFPEROVINCES

Plate 6 362 362 363 365 366 367 372 374 375 376 379 383 384

Map of Santa Fe Province Esperanza CEnS Rafaela CEnS Reconquista ABCEnRSU#ai Rosario ABCEnJKLRSUT#VWafiprs Map of Greater Rosario Map of Rosario West Map of Parque Independencia district Map of city center Rufino CS Santa Fe ABCDEnJKLRSUVW#Yaipqr Map s Venado Tuerto CEnSais Highways and Stopovers CES

anta Fe Province covers 133 000 square kilometers (51 350 square miles) and has 2.8 million inhabitants. It is completely flat and has no mountains of any significance. A large part of this province forms part of the Chaco–Pampa plains. It is dominated by the Río Paraná along which are many flood-prone areas.

S

Santa Fe Province shares borders to the north with Chaco Province, to the west with Santiago del Estero and Córdoba, to the south with Buenos Aires, and to the east with Entre Ríos and Corrientes. The main cities are Santa Fe (population 350 000), the provincial capital, and Rosario (population 900 000). Rosario and Santa Fe are among the most heavily industrialized cities in Argentina.

The climate tanges from temperate with a dry season to subtropical with no dry season. The predominant trees in the north are the quebracho and the algarrobo. Santa Fe is a major producer of prime beef and dairy products as well as wheat. Together with Buenos Aires Province it is the granary of Argentina.

361

Santa Fe

PAMPA PROVINCES The province has an extensive first-class road system. The Río Paraná is also navigable and ships ply between Buenos Aires and Santa Fe–Paraná. For the tourist the city of Santa Fe, founded in 1573 by Juan de

Garay, is interesting. Sport fishing in the rivers is possible at any time of the year. Cruising the Río Paraná is another possibility.

ESPERANZA

Esperanza Population: 70 000 Postal code: 3080 @ area code: (03496) Distance from Santa Fe: 37 km north-west at the intersection of RP 70 and RP 6

E

speranza was founded in 1856. Of interest are the Palacio Municipal (Town Hall) dating from 1893 and the Biblioteca Municipal Francisco Sotomayor (public library). The Museo de Ciencias Naturales (Natural Science Museum) is located on the grounds of the Colegio San José. Among the exhibits is a model of the cathedral in Ulm, Germany. The Museo de la Colonización (Colonization Museum), Aarón Castellanos 1543, has exhibits and memorabilia of the first settlers who came from Switzerland, Germany, and France.

A Festivals

•

C Accommodation

•

A Fiesta de La Cerveza (Beer Festival) is held in October. •

•

n Entertainment

Hotel Castellón, A. Castellanos 1684 ADHPTVY @ 424993 fax Hotel Mayo, Sarmiento 2019 @ 420016

La Fabrica Disco, Ave. L. Colonizad 725

A Buses

•

E Eating out •

Comedor La Tablita, General San Martín 1590

Empresa Tata/Central El Rápido runs daily buses to and from Santa Fe

Comedor El Cruce, RN 11 KM 787

RAFAELA

Rafaela Population: 70 000 Postal code: 3560 @ area code: (03492) Distance from Santa Fe: 96 km north-west on RN 19 and RN 34

R

afaela was founded in 1881 and is the center of a rich agricultural area. Places of interest include the Museo Histórico (Historical Museum), Museo de Bellas Artes (Fine Arts Museum), and the golf course.

Esperanza

362

SANTA FE C Accommodation in Rafaela Apart hotels

• Garay, Padre Palmieri 717 • Rafaela, Saavedra 197

Hotels

• Santa Fe, Ave. Santa Fe 704 • Regio, José Ingenieros 12 • Parra, Ave. Santa Fe 554 E-mail: [email protected] • Ferro, Ave. Casa Angela 139 • Claumar, Ave. a. de las Casas 494 • Plaza, Bvar. G. Lehmann 380 • Toscano, Bvar. Santa Fe 442

Residenciales

• Rafaela, Belgrano 489

@ @

437737 426622

ADEHLR

@ @ @

420671 420881 433900

AEFG

@ @ @ @

422239 425698 435198 431898

AHPTY

Accommodation on RN 34

• Hostería del Sol, KM 532 • Motel Ruta 34

E Eating out • • • • •

422675

@ @

440218 441266

3 services weekly to Rosario (4 hrs) and Venado Tuerto (11 2 hrs). • El Cóndor SRL, C. Saavedra 423 @ 425389 • El Serrano, Sarmiento 522 @ 422345/421772 • Empresa General Belgrano, Dr. Zamenhoff 40 @ 432232; daily services to Santa Fe • Flecha Bus, Sarmiento 522 @ 434404

Restaurant Casablanca, Bvar. Santa Fe 586 Restaurant El Ciervo, Los Ceibos near Vieytes Restaurant Joti’s, Perú 1540 Restaurant La Esquina, C. Saavedra 197 Restaurant Venice, Bvar. Santa Fe 442. Snack bar

a Sport

n Entertainment •

@

•

Oxido, disco, Bvar. Santa Fe 1706

S Bus services

Golf: Jockey Club Rafaela, Santa Fe Prolongación @ (03492) 422328

La Estrella S.R.L. runs regular buses to Ceres and Tostado; T.A. Chevallier runs

RECONQUISTA

Reconquista Population: 65 000 Postal code: 3560 @ area code: (03482) Distance from Santa Fe: 324 km north on RN 11 and RP 1

T

he city was founded in 1872 by Colonel Manuel Obligado. It is located some 15 km from its port on the Río Paraná.

363

Reconquista

PAMPA PROVINCES Eating out in Romang • Cafetería Eiffel, San Martín. Dancing • Cafetería Week-End, 3 de Julio near Gervignani. Dancing

Also included here is Romang, located 34 km south on RP 1, and its facilities.

A Festivals •

n Entertainment

Festival Folklórico del Noroeste Argentino (Folk Festival of the Argentine North-west): January

•

R Air services

B Tourist information •

Time Disco Light, Gobernador Iriondo 629

The military air base is used as the airport and is 10 km from town. • Líneas Aéreas de Entre Ríos (LAER), 9 de Julio near Alvear @ 429195 ° Buenos Aires (Aeroparque Jorge Newbery)( 2hrs); 2 weekly

Secretaría Municipal de Deportes, Turismo y Recreación @ 420393

E Eating out Restaurants • Abuela Eldina, H. Yrigoyen 825. Seafood • Don Pierre, Obligado 883 • Centro Recreativo de Artesanos, P. Diez 755 • Pizzería 738, Habegger 752 Cafeterías and confiterías • Casa Blanca, Habegger 1130. Video bar • Olinda Pub, Belgrano 920. Bar • Vedinho Disco, H. Yrigoyen near Mitre • Yaciresa, Habegger 741

S Buses

•

El Cóndor/La Estrella ° La Rioja via Córdoba and Catamarca (16 hrs; $35.00); 3 weekly See also Buses from Rosario on page 370 and from Santa Fe on page 380 • El Norte Bis runs daily services to Resistencia • CACORBA runs 5 services weekly to San Francisco (Córdoba) • La Internacional, P. Diez 1101 @ 421574

C Accommodation in Reconquista Hotels ** ** *

Grand Hotel, Obligado 883 Ychoalay, H Yrigoyen 836 Fax 23753 Magni, Bulevar H. Yrigoyen 755

AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV AEFLPSV

@

420020 fax

$G

2

@ @

420752 421470

$F $F

2 2

@

429309

@ @

429010 429583

$G $H

2 2

@

481187

$G

2

Residenciales A A B B

Gamba Hnos, Bulevar H. Yrigoyen 76 bis LP Select, 9 de Julio 730 LP San Martín, Mitre 1202 near Bolívar 788 L Reconquista, Iriondo 658 L

Accommodation on RN 11

• Motel Hostal del Rey, Bulevar H. Yrigoyen 76 bis A Residencial El Parque, at the intersection LP

Accommodation in Romang

• Cabañas Cazatur, on the river B Residencial Romang, San Martín

L

Accommodation in Avellaneda Avellaneda is located on RN 11, 3 km north of town • Hotel Avellaneda, KM 792

Reconquista

ADFHKLSY

364

SANTA FE U Motoring

ince daily except Wed at 15:00. A bus runs from Reconquista to the ferry.

RP 1 north along the (swampy) Río Paraná river flats to Reconquista is incomplete between Alejandra and Romang. In order to reach Romang use RN 11 to Reconquista and turn south into RP 1. • Service station: A.C.A., corner of Bulevar Galvez and Patricio Diez

a Sport

•

Golf: Club San Jerónimo del Rey Golf Club, Raúl Carussi 131

Sport in Romang • Club Náutico Romang, RP 1 at the Camping Municipal

# Water transport

A ferry service runs from Puerto Reconquista to Goya in Corrientes Prov-

ROSARIO

Rosario Population: 950 000 Postal code: 2000 @ area code: (0341) Altitude: 25 m Distances From Santa Fe: 173 km south on RN 11 • From Buenos Aires: 297 km south-peast on RN 9 •

R

osario, the third largest city in Argentina, is situated on the Río Paraná in the southern part of Santa Fe Province. There is no official founding date for the city, which is quite unusual for Spanish colonial history. Its origin can be traced back to an estancia, and to its chapel to the Virgen del Rosario (Virgin of the Rosary) which stood here on the banks at the end of the seventeenth century. Settlers came from Santa Fe La Vieja (or “Old Santa Fe”) to escape the marauding Indians. The first landholder here was Capitán Luis Romero de Pineda, who took up his holding in 1689. In 1852 it became a city.

The Río Paraná is over 5 km wide here and ocean-going vessels can berth in Rosario. Agricultural products from the north-west are shipped from here, making it Argentina’s second biggest trading port. It is both a university and an industrial city. The town is laid out on a grandiose scale with wide avenues and boulevards, most of them tree-lined. Along the Río Paraná runs a splendid boulevard. The bus terminal is somewhat distant from the town center. The local bus services depart from the minibus terminal on Plaza

Sarmiento in San Juan near Corrientes. The Río Paraná is dotted with islands which can be reached by ferries and are weekend destinations for the Rosarinos. A new bridge project across the Río Paraná linking Rosario with Victoria in Entre Ríos Province is under consideration. San Lorenzo is located 27 km upstream on RN 11. It was founded in 1573. On February 3 1813 the troops of San Martín won their first victory over the royalist troops here, beginning the liberation campaign. 365

Rosario

PAMPA PROVINCES •

The Convento de San Carlos Borromeo, now a national shrine, served as a field hospital; the cell where San Martín stayed can still be seen. In 1840 a French fleet and in 1846 a combined Anglo-French fleet tried to open up the Río Paraná for international trade but were defeated by Argentine forces. Nowadays the town is an important industrial center, housing a petrochemical complex. Empresa 9 de Julio runs regular bus services to and from Rosario.

E Eating out Restaurants • Agree, Santa Fe 858 • Bistango, Presidente Roca 848 • Casa 188, 3 de Febrero near Maipú. Shows • Comedor Rex, O. Lagos 145. Italian cuisine • Del Consejo, Maipú 1348, 10th floor. Lebanese cuisine • El Cencerro, Moreno near Cochabamba. Parrilla • El Nuevo Mejor, Santa Fe 1166 • El Viejo Churrasco (Lela Clara), Ave. Pellegrini 1102. Parrilla • Hemingway, Ave. Belgrano near Rioja. Seafood • Il Piccolo Navio, San Luis 709. Seafood • La Aduana, Urquiza 915. Parrilla • La Casa de Doña Rosario, San Lorenzo 848 • La Grespia, Ave. C. Pellegrini 578. Italian cuisine • La Rosa, Rivadavia 3265. Chinese cuisine • Los Martínez, Ave. Pellegrini 1977 • Nataly’s, España 1170 • Nueva Casa Uruguaya. Alvear 1125 • Plaza Chica, Moreno 1731. Parrilla • Plaza Mayor, Comodoro Rivadavia 2611. Spanish cuisine • Rich, San Juan 1031. International cuisine • Señor Arenero, Ave. Costanera 2568. Seafood • Sportivo América, Tucumán 2159 • Viejo Sunderland, Avenida Belgrano 2010. International cuisine • Wembley, Ave. Belgrano 2012 Cafeterías and confiterías • Anabel, Santa Fe 2158 • Augustus, Corrientes 791 • Casa Gómez, Ricchieri 1075 • Indaco, Alsina 1070 • 9 de Julio S.RL., 9 de Julio 851 Fast Food • McLulo, Cafferata 851

A Festivals •

Día de La Bandera (Flag Day): June 20

B Tourist information •

Dirección Municipal de Turismo, Santa Fe 581 @ 4214972

To Santa Fe

To San Lorenzo

GRAN ROSARIO

R ío Pa ra ná

11 A 008

34 To Airport

PROVINCE ENTRE RÍOS Isla de la Invernada

N

To Córdoba

Isla del Espinillo

9

1 3 Isla Castellanos

2 Parque Independencia

33

To Casilda

Isla del Francés

21

PROVINCE SANTA FE

18

To Santa Teresa

Rosario

9

To Buenos Aires

Ente Turístico Rosario (ETUR), Ave. Belgrano near Buenos Aires @ 4802230 E-mail: [email protected]; fax 4802237

To San Nicolás

366

SANTA FE BROWN 1

CALLAO

BE RD I

VERA MUJICA

CRESPO

CAFFERATA

SAN NICOLAS

CONSTITUCIÓN

CASTELLANOS

IRIONDO

CATAMARCA

O. LAGOS

AL

AVE. SALTA

TENIENTE GENERAL RICCHIERI

JUJUY

SUIPACHA

E.

AVE. FRANCIA

AV

To Santa Fe

ROSARIO 1 WEST

2

3

TUCUMÁN

URQUIZA

4

SAN LORENZO 5

6

7

To Centro

H

SANTA FE

To Córdoba

9

T

11

CÓRDOBA 12

RIOJA

SAN LUIS

Key to map H T

Hospital Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1

Hotel Mitre

2 4 5 6

Hotel Garden Hotel Viena Hotel Continente Hotel Micro

• • •

Eating out in San Lorenzo • Restaurant El Progreso, Ave. San Martín 1415

n Entertainment

Rosario has a very active night life, including some very good theaters. • Centro Cultural Rivadavia, Ave. San Martín 1080 @ 4802401; concerts and theater and programs of all cultural events in town • La Bola de Nieve, Laprida 813 • Disco Lazaro, 9 de Julio 826

•

7 Hotel Embajador 9 Hotel Nahuel 11 Hotel Onix

Disco Planet, Maipú 1070 Disco Space, Mendoza 3947 Teatro El Círcolo, Laprida 1235. This is the prime venue for concerts and theater performances. Opened in 1904 Teatro La comedia, Gral. B. Mitre 958

I Post and telegraph

• •

367

Post office: Corrreo Argentino, Córdoba 721 Telephone: Rosario Centro, Rioja 1479

Rosario

PAMPA PROVINCES C Accommodation in Rosario Apart hotels **** **** ****

Hotels ***** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** **** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** * * * * * *

• • • • • •

Alvear, Alvear 555 BCDFLY E-mail: [email protected] Río Grande, Dorrego 1261 E-mail: [email protected] Urquiza, Urquiza 1491 Fax 4491677; e-mail: [email protected]

@

4472000;

@

4241144

@

4494900

Plaza del Sol, San Juan 1057 ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$TUVXYZ Fax 4264432 E- mail:plaza.satlink.com @ 4219899 Ariston, Córdoba 2554 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ @ 4259142 fax Libertador, Avenida Corrientes 752 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ Fax 4241380 @ 4241005 Nuevo Hotel Europeo, San Luis 1364 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 4240382 fax Nuevo Hotel Imperio, Urquiza 1264 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 4480091 @ 4262732 Plaza, Barón de Mauá 26 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 4491122 @ 4407097 Presidente, Corrientes 919 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 4242789 fax Pringles, Santa Fe 1470 AEFLRU @ 4474050 fax República, San Lorenzo 955 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 4248549 fax Riviera Palace, San Lorenzo 1460 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 4242058 @ 4242215 Garden, Callao 47 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4388155 Mayoral, Alberdi 1142 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4397530 fax Rosario, Cortada Ricardone 1365 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4242170 Savoy, San Lorenzo 1028 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 4480071/2 fax Benidorm, San Juan 1049 AEFGJLPUV @ 4219368 Colonial, Maipú 1543 @ 4219041 Viena, Ovidio Lagos 555 AEFGJLPUV @ 4390037/8 fax Zurich, Mendoza 2355 @ 4244797 Cristal, San Juan 4065 AELPV Fax 4305232 @ 4396058 La Viña, 3 de Febrero 1244 AELPV @ 4214549 Litoral, Entre Ríos 1045 AELPV @ 4211426 Monumento, Buenos Aires 1020 AELPSV @ 4400930 Nogaré, Mendoza 1578 AELPV @ 4249027 Normandie, Mitre 1030 AELPV @ 4212694 Bahía, Maipú 1262 @ 4217271 Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires 1063 La Paz, Barón de Maua 36 @ 4408930 Marconi, San Juan 1077 @ 449115 Nuevo City Hotel, San Juan 867 ADEHVY @ 4404903 Romijor, Laprida 1050 @ 4217276

Residenciales

• Mendoza, Mendoza 1246

Rosario

@

368

4246544

$C/D 2 $E

2

$D/E 2 $E

2

$E

2

$E

2

$E

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2

SANTA FE Accommodation in Rosario — continued Accommodation near bus terminal Local bus services to the bus terminal: #101, #102 and #120 *** *** ** ** ** ** **

Accommodation near Norte station *

@ @ @

4370200 4303457 4386584

$G $G

2 2

@ @

4386367 4353530

$G

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@ @

4397192 4397292 fax

$G $G

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(03476) 425025 fax (03476) 422434

María I, Córdoba 4774 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Onix, Vera Mujica 757 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Continente, Santa Fe 3746 Embajador, Santa Fe 3554 AEFHLPTVY Fax 4384188 Hotel Avellaneda, Ave. Avellaneda 679 ADHVY Micro, Santa Fe 3650 AEFGJLPUV Fax 4374210 Nahuel, Santa Fe 3619 AEFGJLPSUV Hotel Callao 68

Accommodation in San Lorenzo Hotel Horizonte, Saavedra 2020 • Hotel Victoria, Gral. López 1201

***

L Financial • •

Car rental • A1 Rent a Car, Sargento Cabral 519 @ 4245171 fax • Localiza, Córdoba 4199 @ 4351234. Small car $60.00 per, $0.37 per km; plus IVA and insurance

Citibank, Santa Fe 1101. ATM First National Bank of Boston, Córdoba 1201. ATM Cambio Estelar, Ave. Córdoba 1444 @ 4498580 Cambio Exprinter, Córdoba 960. Commision on travelers checks

• •

T Trains Stations • Rosario Norte (F C General B Mitre), Avenida Wheelwright 1520 ° The Buenos Aires–Tucumán intercity express makes a stop here three times per week

U Motoring services

The autopista now runs north to Santa Fe and tp Buenos Aires. • Service station: A.C.A., Bulevar Oroño near 3 de Febrero

R Air services from Rosario

The airport is at Fisherton, 14 km west of the town center, via Autopista A008 Manuel Tienda León, Santa Fe 2000 @ 4492807 runs direct bus services to Ezeiza International Airport. Picks up passengers from home and hotels. Airlines • Aerolíneas Argentinas, Santa Fe 1410 @ 4249332, fax 4249292 • Andesmar, Rioja 1189 @ 4259850 fax • Southern Winds, Mitre 737 @ 4253808 Services • • • • • • •

Destination Buenos Aires Catamarca Córdoba Mendoza Salta San Luis Tucumán

Fare $130.00 $69.00 $131.00 $179.00 $130.00 $146.00

Services 6 daily 3 weekly 10 weekly 5 weekly 5 weekly 3 weekly 5 weekly

Duration 3 hrs 4 43 4 hrs 1 hour 21 2 hrs 31 2 hrs 21 4 hrs 21 2 hrs

369

Airline Austral, Aerolíneas ANDESMAR ANDESMAR ANDESMAR ANDESMAR ANDESMAR ANDESMAR

Rosario

PAMPA PROVINCES S Buses from Rosario

The bus terminal is at Cafferata 702 (corner of Santa Fe, block 3400–3600); @ (0341) 4392844. Buenos Aires can be reached on RN 9, via San Nicolás and General Pacheco, or on RN 8 then 188, via Pergamino. This latter route is less frequented by trucks. Bus companies operating from the bus terminal • BASA Costera Criolla @ 4350419 • Expreso Arito SA ° Rufino via Venado Tuerto • A9 Atahualpa SRL, @ 4385320 • A25 Casilda SA, boletería 5/6 @ 4390698 • A28 Central Argentino @ 4375294 • A32 Empresa General Urquiza, local 12 @ 4386700 • A33 T.A. Chevallier, boletería 7/8 @ 4385551 ° Rafaela (4 hrs) via Casilda, Firmat, and Venado Tuerto (23 4 hrs); 3 weekly • A37 Ciudad de Posadas • A61 El Norte Bis @ 4394131 ° Reconquista; 2 daily • A71 TATA Rápido, oficina 18/19 @ 4390901 ° Ceres (53 4 hrs); 1 daily ° Santa Fe; 34 daily • A73 El Santiagueño • A83 Empresa Argentina, @ 4302298 • A100 Kurtz @ 4370393 ° Puerto Iguazú via Posadas • A115 ENCON • A132 Expreso Singer, @ 4395894 • A137 Flecha Bus @ 4309333 • A157 La Internacional @ 4388748 • A164 La Veloz del Norte @ 4370466 • A179 Micro @ 4384131 • A190 Pluma • A193 Puerto Tirol ° Santa Fe; 5 daily • A211 T.A.C. • A218 Tirsa • A299 ABLO @ 4396806 • A339 El Rápido SRL @ 4307865 • A345 Empresa Río Coronda SRL boletería 11 @ 4561736 Bus companies with their own terminals • Autoflash, Carranza 1558 @ 4583773 ° Ezeiza Airport via Buenos Aires Long-distance services • • • • • • •

Destination Asunción Bahía Blanca Bariloche Buenos Aires Catamarca Córdoba Corrientes

Rosario

Fare $56.00 $80.00 $16.00 $20.00

Services 2 daily 2 daily 2 weekly 14 daily 2 daily 6 daily 8 daily

Duration Company 121 2 hrs A157 A299 24 hrs A33, A218 6 hrs A33, A71, A73, A157, A193, A299 12 1 2 hrs A33 6 hrs A25, A33, A299 14 hrs A33, A37, A61, A71, A100

370

SANTA FE Buses from Rosario — continued • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Formosa $44.00 La Plata $22.00 La Rioja Mar Del Plata Mendoza $35.00 Montevideo (Uru) Neuquén $75.00 Paraná $11.00 Paso de Los Libres Posadas Puerto Iguazú Punta Del Este Resistencia $32.00 Piripolis (Bras.) Porto Alegre (Bras.) Rio Do Janeiro (Bras.) Salta San Juan San Luis $26.50 Santa Fe $9.00 Santiago del Estero $25.00 Termas de Río Hondo $35.20 Tucumán $38.70

3 daily 3 daily 2 daily 3 daily 2 daily 2 weekly 1–2 daily 7 daily 2 daily 5 daily 2 daily 5 daily

1 daily 2 daily 15 daily

A193 6 hrs A83 A299 A83, A218, A299 14 hrs A211 A115, 14 hrs A33, A218 3 hrs A71, A137 A61, A100 16 hrs A37, A61, A100, A61, A100 A115 10 hrs A37, A61, A100, A157 A115 A190 A190 A9, A164 A211 10 hrs A211 21 4 hrs A33, A71, A157, A179

4 daily 5 daily 4 daily

A33, A71, A73, A164 10 hrs A33 11 hrs A9, A33, A164

•

•

Rosario Oeste (F C General M Belgrano), Paraná 1350 (corner of 9 de Julio) Services • Buenos Aires: 4 hours; 12 services daily

• • •

# Water transport •

•

•

On weekends and holidays the boat Ciudad de Rosario runs a two-hour trip around the nearby islands on the Río Paraná. It leaves from the Estación Fluvial near the Monumento a la Bandera (Monument to the Flag) A ferry service runs up the Río Paraná and Río Carbón Grande between Puerto General San Martín and Victoria in Entre Ríos Province

Club de Velas, Marull near Avenida Costanera Club Náutico Sportivo Avellaneda, Ibarlucea Norte 350 @ 4380625 Club Remeros Alberdi, Avenida Carrasco 2055 @ 4550092 Rosario Rowing Club, Islas de Los Bañistas 492 @ 4550149 Yacht Club Rosario, Avenida Costanera near Washington

Aero clubs • Aero Club Rosario, Sarmiento 781 • Círculo de Aviación, Sarmiento 503 Golf • Rosario Golf Club, Morrison 9900 @ 4568838/4512428 • Jockey Club Rosario, Córdoba near Wilde Sport in Pérez Pérez is located 11 km west of Rosario on RN 34. • Golf: Club S.D.F.G. Mitre (Pérez), RN 33 @ (0341) 4851108

a Sport •

Race course. The Hipodromo is located in Parque Independencia • Swimming at sandy Florida beach, about 8 km north of Rosario Boating, sailing and rowing • Club de Regatas Rosario, Pje Cordiviola 1268 @ 4399281 371

Rosario

PAMPA PROVINCES AV BROWN

Río E.

WH

EE

LW

RIG

Pa

ran

á

HT

JUJUY AVE

. DE

L H U

ER

TO

AVE. SALTA

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Map Rosario 3

Map Rosario 1

TUCUMÁN 2

1

URQUIZA 4 3 5

SAN LORENZO 8

7 6

SANTA FE 12 9

11 $

10

13

CORDOBA 16

$

PUEYRREDÓN

SANTIAGO

RIOJA

ALVEAR

CALLAO

RODRÍGUEZ

RICARDONE 15

14

E

19

18 17

SAN LUIS 21

22

20

SAN JUAN 23

26

24 25

MENDOZA 27

29

28

30

3 DE FEBRERO P

9 DE JULIO

E ZEBALLOS 31

B. MITRE

ENTRE RÍOS

AVE. CORRIENTES

PARAGUAY

ESPAÑA

ITALIA

AVE. MORCILLO

FA

33 34

DORREGO

IN

MORENO

E.

BALCARCE

AVE. PELLEGRINI

AV

BVAR. OROÑO

32

PRESIDENTE ROCA

MONTEVIDEO

COCHABAMBA

N TE

35

AV

PASCO

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ITUZAINGÓ

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Parque Independenc ia

CERRITO

36

RIOBAMBA

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AV

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D.

VIAMONTE ALE

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BVAR. 27 DE FEBRERO

To Buenos Aires

Rosario

372

ROSARIO 2 PARQUE INDEPENDENCIA

SANTA FE Key to map E P

Telephone: Rosario Centro A.C.A.

3 Accommodation 2 3 4 5 7 9 12 15 17 18 21 22 25 27 29

Hotel Nuevo Imperio Apart Hotel Alvear Apart Hotel Urquiza Hotel Riviera Palace Apart Hotel Pringles Hotel Ariston Hotel Libertador Hotel Rosario Hotel Presidente Hotel Nuevo 1 Europeo Hotel Litoral Hotel Normandie Residencial Mendoza Hotel Zurich Apart Hotel Río Grande

9 Sights

30 Hotel La Viña

4 Eating out 1

6 13 14 23 24 33 34

Restaurant Sportivo América Cafetería Anabel Cafetería Augustus Restaurant Bistango Restaurant Nueva Casa Uruguaya Restaurant Nataly’s Restaurant Los Martínez Restaurant Plaza Chica

5 Entertainment

19 Teotro La Comedia 36 Hipódromo

10 Museo Municipal de Ciencias Naturales “Dr Angel Gallardo” 31 Museo Municipal de la Ciudada de Rosario 32 Museo Municipal de Nellas Artes “Juan B. Castagnino” 35 Museo Histórico Provincial “Dr Juilo Marc”

0 Services

11 Cambio Estelar 16 First National Bank of Boston 20 Minibus terminal

6 Airline offices 8

Aerolíneas Argentinas

p Sightseeing

stream. In the grounds of the park is a fish breeding research station • Parque Justo José de Urquiza, located on the Río Paraná, at the intersection of Bulevar Pellegrini and Chacabuco. Inside the park is the Observatorio Astronómico Municipal (Municipal Astronomical Observatory) and the Anfiteatro Municipal H. de Nito Churches • Catedral Basilica Nuestra Señora del Rosario, Buenos Aires 789 on Plaza 25 de Mayo, was built in the baroque style. The image of the Virgin was brought from Cádiz in 1773 Museums • Museo Histórico Provincial “Dr Julio Marc” (Dr Julio Marc Provincial History Museum), in Parque Independencia on the northern (Avenida Pellegrini) side. In the thirty-five exhibition rooms are pre-Colombian and colonial artefacts from Argentina and Spanish America, including weavings, archeological items, paintings, and furniture. Open Tues–Fri 09:00–12:30; Sat and Sun 15:00–18:00 • Museo de Arte Decorativo “Firma y Odilo Estévez” (Firma and Odilo Estévez Decorative Art Museum), Santa Fe 748, exhibits a collection of paintings, furniture, china, ceramics, silver, and carpets. Open Wed–Fri 16:00–20:00

Monuments and parks • Monumento Nacional a la Bandera (Nacional Monument to the Flag), situated in Parque Nacional a la Bandera on the river where Avenida Belgrano and 25 de Mayo intersect. Erected in honour of General Belgrano, who designed the Argentine flag and raised it on this spot in 1812 for the first time. This building is the resting place of the famous general. Also in the hall housed in glass cabinets are the flags of all the nations of South America, symbolizing the bonds between these countries. The tower flanking the building is 78 m high. Open Mon 14:00–20:00; Tues and Sun 09:00–20:00 • Parque Independencia is located in the center of the city, intersected by Bulevar Pellegrini and Bulevar Oroño. It was created in 1902 and considered one of the finest parks in the country. On the 126 ha (311 acres) there are several artificial lakes with water-birds, a rose garden, and a large Spanish ceramic fountain. The park also contains sports clubs and museums • Parque Alem, at the end of Bulevar Avellaneda on the corner of Cordiviola, on the banks of the Río Paraná. It has views over the river to the islands in the middle of the

373

Rosario

PAMPA PROVINCES ROSARIO 3 CENTRO

CATAMARCA

SAN MARTÍN

TUCUMÁN

O

SARMIENTO

B. MITRE

UR AL S. CABR

ZO

ZA

LAPRIDA

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AN

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ra

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26

29

NO

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27

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9 DE JULIO

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o

15

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21

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22

19

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S

9 25 de Mayo

TR

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17

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IA

I 5

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Pedestrian mall

Continued map Rosario 2

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11

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S A N TA

IA

N C

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6

23

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VI

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PR

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NO

31 34 32 33

AVE. PELLEGRINI

COCHABAMBA

PASCO

•

•

•

To Buenos Aires

Museo Municipal de Ciencias Naturales “Dr Angel Gallardo” (Dr Angel Gallardo Municipal Natural Science Museum), Moreno 750, has fifteen rooms of zoological, botanical, mineralogical, palaeontological and anthropological exhibits. Open Tues–Fri 09:00–12:30 Museo Municipal de La Ciudad de Rosario (Rosario City Municipal Museum), Bulevar Oroño 1540, gives an overview of the city’s past and present Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes “Juan B. Castagnino” (Juan B. Castagnino Municipal Fine Arts Museum), Pellegrini 2202 near Bulevar

Rosario

BERUTI

Plaza General L ópez

35

ESMERALDA

CHACABUCO

MONTEVIDEO

•

374

Oroño, exhibits in the 34 rooms more than 1600 paintings by outstanding Argentine and foreign artists. Includes paintings of Tician, Goya and El Greco. The library specializes in art and has 4000 volumes. Open We–Fri 16:00–20:00; Sat and Sun 14:00–20:00 Museo del Paraná y Islas, in the wharf building on the corner of Avenida Belgrano and Rioja, contains paintings by the famous artist Raúl Domínguez, who captured vividly the life of the people living on the banks and the islands of the Río Paraná

SANTA FE Key to map A C D

Catedral Basilica Nuestra Señora del Rosario Palacio Municipal (Town hall) Corrreo Argentino

3 Accommodation 2 7 19 21 22 23

Hotel Savoy Hotel República Hotel Romijor Hotel Monumento Hotel Buenos Aires Hotel Benidorm, Hotel Plaza del Sol and Hotel Marconi 25 Hotel Nuevo City 26 Hotel Bahía 31 Hotel Colonial

4 Eating out 3

Restaurant La Aduana

4 6 8 20 24 28 30 32 33

17 Andesmar

9 Sights 9

Museo de Arte Decorativo “Firma y Odilo Estévez” 14 Monumento Nacional a La Bandera 16 Museo del Paraná y Islas 34 Observatorio Astronómico Municipal

0 Services 1 5 10 11 12 13

Círculo de Aviación ETUR Citibank Aero Club Rosario Cambio Exprinter Dirección Municipal de Turismo 15 Estación Fluvial

5 Entertainment 18 27 29 35

Disco Planet Teatro El Círcolo Disco Lazaro Anfiteatro Humberto de Nito

s Excursions •

6 Airline offices

Restaurant La Casa de Doña Rosario Restaurant El Nuevo Mejor Restaurant Agree Restaurant Il Piccolo Navio Restaurant Rich Restaurant Del Consejo Cafetería 9 de Julio Restaurant El Viejo Churrasco (Lela Clara) Restaurant La Grespia

Rosario has some good beach resorts in the northern suburbs on the Paseo Ribereño Norte. Of interest to tourists are Balneario Municipal Rambla Catalunia near the intersection of

• •

Bvar Avellaneda and the northern exit of RN 11 Laguna Melincué: See Excursions from Venado Tuerto on page 384 San Lorenzo; see introduction to Rosario on page 365

RUFINO

Rufino Postal code: 6100 @ area code: (03382) Distance from Rosario: 95 km south-west at the intersection of RN 33 and RN 9

R

ufino is located at the intersection of RN 33 with RN 7 in the extreme south west of the province. It is an important crossroads.

C Accommodation in Rufino

• Hotel Astur, Primitivo Galán 81 ADEFSVY • Hotel Quime Quipan, Santa Fe 59 ADEFGH E-mail: [email protected] • Hotel Gallo, Bvar. San Martín 239 • Hotel Gravino, Italia 331 • Hotel Savoia, Ave. Cobo 144

375

@ @

429317 429366

@ @

429247 429347

Rufino

PAMPA PROVINCES

SANTA FE

Santa Fe Population: 345 000 Postal code: 3000 @ area code: (0342) Altitude: 21 m Distances From Paraná: 30 km west on RN 168 (via the Túnel Subfluvial Uranga Silvestre • Begnis) From Rosario: 173 km south on RN 11 •

S

anta Fe is located on Laguna Setúbal, which is linked to the Río Paraná by the Canal de Acceso. Its official name is Santa Fe de la Vera Cruz, but it is generally known simply as “Santa Fe”.

B Tourist information Santa Fe is the provincial capital and • Dirección de Turismo de La the center of a very fertile agriculProvincia, San Martín 1389 @ 4580517 tural region. The original settlement fax 4593572 was founded by Juan de Garay on • Dirección Municipal de Turismo, November 15, 1573 in Cayastá, some Belgrano 2910 in the lobby of the bus 100 km north-east from its present terminal, @ 4526683. Other offices are on the main roads coming into town. site. Owing to constant attacks by InOpen every day 07:00–13:00 and dian tribes and frequent flooding, it 14:00–20:00 was relocated in 1650 to its present Tourist information in Santo Tomé site. Six conventions were held in • Dirección Municipal de Santo Tomé, this city before the constitution was Iriondo 149 @ 4741678 adopted in 1853. The city center is situated between Plaza San Martín D Camping and Plaza 25 de Mayo. • Camping Municipal Brigadier General Estanislao López, Santo Tomé, The city is linked with the city of 10 km south of the city center on Paraná in Entre Ríos Province by the RN 11, on the beach $1.00 per tent Túnel Subfluvial Uranga Silvestre Begnis under the Río Paraná; see E Eating out “Excursions” below. Eating out in the city center Two suburbs deserve mention: Try surubí, the local fish. Santo Tomé about 6 km south of the Restaurants town center, and the suburb of • Carlucci, Avenida R Freyre 2350. InGuadelupe 5 km north of town; both ternational cuisine have many good restaurants. • Centro Piemontés, 3 de Febrero 3259. Italian cuisine Also included here is Recreo • Círculo Italiano, H. Yrigoyen 2457 and its facilities. Recreo is a small town 17 km north of Santa Fe & • Club Sirio Libanés, San Martín 2748. Restaurant reached on RN 11. There is a golf • Club Regatas, Ave. Alem 3288 course. • Don Felipe, Bulevar Pellegrini 3280. A Festivals •

• •

Foundation of the city: November

Santa Fe

376

International cuisine Don Marcos, Las Heras 3601 España, San Martín 2644

SANTA FE C Accommodation in Santa Fe Hotels **** **** **** *** *** *** ***

&

*** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** *

•

• • •

ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ @ 4551195 fax Hostal de Santa Fe de Vera Cruz, San Martín 2954 @ 4551740 fax ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Río Grande, San Gerónimo 2586 ACEFGHJKLMNP$TUYZ Take bus 4, 5, 8, 10, 14 or 18 @ 4500700 Bertaina, H Yrigoyen 2255 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Near bus terminal @ 4532287 fax Brigadier, San Luis 3148 AEKLPSV Take bus 6 @ 4537387 Castelar, 25 de Mayo 2349 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4560999 fax Corrientes, Corrientes 2520 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4592126 fax Gran Hotel España, 25 de Mayo 2647 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4552264 fax Hernandariass, Rivadavia 2684 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4529752 Intersur, Mariano Comas 2555 ACHKT @ 4555890 Nuevo Suipacha, Suipacha 2375 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 4551840 @ 4521135 Zavaleta, H. Yrigoyen 2349 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 4551840 fax Cervantes, 25 de Mayo 2277 AEFGJLPUV @ 4529888 Colón, San Luis 2862 AEFGJLPUV Take bus 6 or 14 @ 4521586 Emperatriz, Yrigoyen Freyre 2440 AEFGJLPSUV Near bus terminal @ 4530061 Grand Carlitos, Yrigoyen Freyre 2336 AEFGJLPUV @ 4531541 Niza, Rivadavia 2755 AELPV @ 4522047 Apolo, Belgrano 2821 E Opposite bus terminal; for budget travelers @ 4527984 California, 25 de Mayo 2190 E @ 4523988 Royal, Yrigoyen Freyre 2256 Opposite bus terminal @ 4527359 Umberto, Crespo 2224 Near bus terminal; for budget travelers @ 4550409 Conquistador, 25 de Mayo 2676

Accommodation in Santo Tomé

• Motel Autotel T3, C. Ricchieri near RN 11

& •

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Gran Parrilla Rivadavia, Rivadavia 3299. Parrilla • La Fontana Ristorante, San Jerónimo 3480 • Las Cuartetas, Bulevar Pellegrini 2577 • Las Leñas, San Luis 3499. Parrilla • Super Grill, Belgrano 2991; opposite bus terminal Pizzerías • Tuyú, Bulevar Pellegrini 3107 Cafeterías and confiterías • Baviera Santiago, 25 de Mayo 3287. Beer garden • Island VIP, Bulevar Galvez 2357. Dancing

La Pachanga, Rivadavia 2875. Dancing • Las Delicias, San Martín 2898 • Necochea, Bulevar Galvez 1945 Fast food • McDonalds, San Martín 2139 • Papanata’s, Dr. Zavalla 1300 Eating out in Guadalupe Guadelupe is a small beach resort to the north of the town center; see “Excursions” below. Around the intersection of Javier de La Rosa and Avenida Almirante Brown (the costanera) are many good and fashionable restaurants. Take colectivo 16 from the city center.

377

Santa Fe

SANTA FE •

n Entertainment

Restaurant El Quincho de Chiquito, Avenida Costanera 7100. Seafood • Restaurant El Quincho de Don Pipo, Javier de La Rosa 223. Parrilla Eating out in Santo Tomé Santo Tomé is located south of Santa Fe. It has developed into a “Gourmet Suburb” with many fine restaurants.

•

I Post and telegraph

• •

A B C D E H I P $ T

Catedral Iglesia Matríz de Todos Los Santos Casa de Gobierno (Government House) Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telecom Hospital Tourist information A.C.A., Rivadavia 3101 Money exchange Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 12 13 14 17 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 35 36 37 38 41 43 45

Hotel Brigadier Hotel Nuevo Suipacha Hotel Umberto Hotel Hostal de Santa Fe de Vera Cruz Hotel Niza Hotel Emperatriz Hotel Grand Carlitos Hotel Zavaleta Hotel Royal Hotel Colón Hotel Bertaina Hotel Apolo Hotel Gran Hotel España Hotel Conquistador Hotel Hernandariass Hotel Río Grande Hotel Castelar Hotel Cervantes Hotel California

Post office: Correo Argentino, 27 de Febrero 2331 Telephone: Telecom Mendoza 2340

L Financial

•

Restaurants • Las Vegas, Avenida Ejército • El Libertador, Avenida Luján 2310. Italian cuisine • Fortín Luján, Avenida Luján 3701. Parrilla • La Tablita, Avenida Ricchieri 3882 near RN 11. Parrilla Cafeterías • Container, Derqui 2171. Dancing • La Roche, Avenida 7 de Marzo 1276. Bar

Key to map

Passage, San Martín 3243

•

Citibank, San Martín 2601. ATM and Diners Club cards Cambio Tourfe, San Martín 2500 @ 4551382 commission on traveler cheques

R Air services

The airport is at Sauce Viejo, 17 km south of the city center on RN 1. • Aerolíneas Argentinas, Lisandro de La Torre 2633 @ 4597287 ° Buenos Aires (1 hour); 1–2 daily

48 Hotel Corrientes

4 Eating out 1 2 5 6

7 8 10 11 18 20 21 31 34 40 44 53 57

Restaurant Don Marcos Restaurant Don Felipe Pizzería Tuyú Restaurant La Fontana Ristorante Restaurant Las Cuartetas Restaurant Las Leñas Restaurant Baviera Santiago Restaurant Gran Parrilla Rivadavia Restaurant Super Grill Cafetería Las Delicias Restaurant Círculo Italiano Restaurant Club Sirio Libanes Restaurant España Restaurant Carlucci Fast food McDonalds Restaurant Centro Piemontés Papanata’s

5 Entertainment

3 Cafetería Island VIP 9 Disco Passage 22 Cafetería La Pachanga

6 Airline offices

16 Líneas Aéreas de Entre Ríos (LAER) 47 Austral

378

7 Tour operators and car rental 15 Unidas Rent a Car 32 A1 Rent a Car 46 Localiza Rent a Car

9 Sights

49 Plazoleta C.A. Candeotti 50 Casa Colonial de Los Aldao 51 Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes “Rosa Galisteo de Rodríguez” 52 Iglesia Nuestra Señora de Los Milagros 54 Iglesia Santo Domingo 55 Casa del Brigadier General Estanislao López 56 Museo Etnográfico y Colonial Juan de Garay 59 Museo Histórico de San Francisco and Convento San Francisco

0 Services

19 Dirección Municipal de Turismo 33 Cambio Tourfe 39 Citibank 42 Puerto de Santa Fe 58 Dirección de Turismo de La Provincia

Santa Fe

SANTA FE To Reconquista 1

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48

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54 53

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SANTA FE

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ENT RE RÍOS

To Rosario

379

Santa Fe

PAMPA PROVINCES S Buses from Santa Fe

The bus terminal is on Belgrano 2910 @ (042) 4553908. This spacious modern building has a tourist office, cloakroom, clean rest rooms, and a 24-hour café. Bus companies • A33 T.A. Chevallier • A37 Ciudad de Posadas • A55 El Cóndor SRL, boletería 2 @ 4539690 • A60 El Litoral @ 4527470 • A61 El Norte Bis @4529725 ° Reconquista; 1 daily • A75 El Serrano @ 4553524 • A100 Empresa Kurtz • A115 ENCON SRL, boletería 22/23 @ 4557013 • A132 Empresa Singer • A137 Flecha Bus, boletería 20 @ 4557368 ° Rafaela; daily buses • A157 La Internacional, @ 4538006 • A179 Micro Ejecutivo @ 455822 ° Rosario; 5 daily • A193 Puerto Tirol • A299 ABLO • A322 Central El Rápido @ 4534965 ° Tostado (41 2 hrs) via Esperanza, Elisa, and San Cristóbal; 1 daily • ETACER @ 4520941 ° Paraná ($3.20; 1 hr); 24 hour service Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Fare Asunción (Paraguay) $54.00 Bahía Blanca Buenos Aires $28.00 Córdoba $18.50 Corrientes $32.00 Formosa $35.20 La Rioja Mar Del Plata $47.00 Mendoza $42.00 Montevideo (Uruguay) $47.75 Posadas $35.00 Puerto Iguazú $45.00 Resistencia $27.00 Rosario $10.50 Salta $60.00 San Luis $35.00 Santiago del Estero $35.00 Termas de Río Hondo $38.00 Tucumán $44.00

Santa Fe

Services 5 daily 2 daily 7 daily 4 daily 5 daily 3 daily 1 daily 2 daily 2 daily

Duration Company 13 hrs A157 A299 6 hrs A157, A179, A193, A322 53 4 hrs A75, A132 10 hrs A33, A37, A61, A193, A322 A193 A299 13 hrs A179, 121 2 hrs T.A.C.

3 weekly 4 daily 1 daily 5 daily 10 daily 2 daily

12 hrs Cora 12 hrs A37, A100, A132 16 hrs A100 A37, A61, A157 2 hrs A33, A157, A179, A322 15 hrs La Veloz del Norte T.A.C.

2 daily

10 hrs A55

2 daily 2 Daily

11 hrs A55 121 2 hrs A55

380

SANTA FE •

Líneas Aéreas de Entre Ríos (LAER), San Martín 2984 @ 4550157 ° Buenos Aires; 6 weekly

U Motoring

The road south to Rosario (160 km) is a four-lane highway. The road north to Formosa (894 km) is sealed all the way. Car Rental • A1 Rent a Car, 25 de Mayo 2786 @ 4521697 • Localiza Rent a Car, L. de la Torre 2458 @ 4564481. Small car $60.00 per day and $0.37 per km plus insurance and IVA • Unidas Rent a Car, San Martín 2945 Service stations • A.C.A., Rivadavia 3101 of Suipacha @ 443999

•

# Water transport

•

Passenger boats no longer stop at Santa Fe, but only in Paraná. River cruises • Passenger boat Cirinda @ 4595336 has weekend and holiday cruises

Y Shopping

The main shopping street is San Martín, which is a pedestrian mall between Lisandro de La Torre and La Rioja.

•

a Sport •

Golf: Jockey Club Santa Fe, Gorostiaga 5000 @ 461580; 18-hole golf course near the racecourse. The jockey club holds Sunday race meeting with on-course betting • Club Náutico Azopardo Sport in Santo Tomé • Golf: Club de Campo El Paso, Zona Rural @ 421715 Sport in Recreo • Los Molinos Country Club, Campo Crespo @ 4905152

Santos (First All Saints’ Church), Avenida Gral López 2672 (corner of San Jerónimo) on Plaza de Mayo. Construction began in 1661 and the outside was remodelled in 1747. It is the resting place of famous Argentines Convento San Francisco (St Francis Convent), corner of San Martín and Amenábar, was built in 1680. Some of the walls are nearly 2 m thick. This church represents one of the finest examples of Spanish colonial architecture. Particularly noteworthy are the carved wooden ceilings. A picture of “El Nazareno” (“The Nazarene”) was given by Queen María Ana of Austria in 1650. Inside is the tomb of General Estanislao López and his wife. On the same grounds is the Museo de San Francisco; see below Iglesia Nuestra Señora de Los Milagros (Our Lady of the Miracles Church), also known as Iglesia de la Merced (Church of Mercy), San Martín 1580 near Avenida General López. Built by the Jesuits in 1660, it is the oldest church in Santa Fe. Inside is a picture of the Holy Virgin which was painted in 1633 by a German Jesuit friar in Santa Fe La Vieja Iglesia Santo Domingo (St Dominic’s Church), 3 de Febrero 2811 near 9 de Julio

Museums • Casa de Gobierno (Government House), 3 de Febrero 2649. Built in 1906 on the old Cabildo site, it is the seat of the provincial government. In the old Cabildo the signing of the 1829 treaty with Brazil took place, as well as the federation treaty of 1831. Several other constitutional congresses were also held here • Casa Colonial de Los Aldao (Colonial Home of the Aldao Family), Buenos Aires 2845. Built around 1711, it is a typical colonial house, believed to be the oldest house in Santa Fe. Open Mon –Fri 08:00–12:00 and 16:00–19:00 • Museo Histórico de San Francisco (St Francis Museum), corner of San Martín and Amenábar. On exhibit are religious memorabilia and historic documents from the colonial and republican era including the testament

p Sightseeing

The historical part of the city is around Plaza 25 de Mayo, between J J Paso and General López. Churches • Catedral (Cathedral), whose official name is Iglesia Matríz de Todos Los

381

Santa Fe

PAMPA PROVINCES

•

•

•

•

of Gerónima Contreras de Hernandarias, daughter of Juan de Garay the second founder of Buenos Aires. Open daily 09:00–12:00 and 16:00–19:00 Casa del Brigadier General Estanislao López (House of Brigadier-General Estanislao López), San Martín 1490. Built around 1660, it houses a great many historical objects and paintings from the Cuzco school and utensils coming from Indian settlements along the river, and a collection of contemporary weapons. One room is dedicated to Brigadier General Estanislao López one of the provincial heros of the nineteenth century. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–12:00 and 17:00–19:00; Sat and Sun 15:00–18:00 Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes “Rosa Galisteo de Rodríguez”(Provincial Fine Arts Museum), 4 de Enero 1552 near General López, has a collection of over 2000 paintings, mainly by Argentine artists in 22 rooms. Open Tues–Fri 09:00–12:00 and 16:00–19:00; also Sat and Sun 16:00–19:00 Museo Etnográfico y Colonial Juan de Garay (Ethnographic and Colonial Museum), 25 de Mayo 1470. On exhibition are archeological pre-Hispanic items and items excavated at the ruins of Santa Fe La Vieja (Old Santa Fe) near Cayastá. The museum also houses a collection of official records of the years 1635–1852. Open Tues–Fri 09:00–12:00 and 15:30–19:30; Sun 08:30–12:00 and 16:00–19:00 Granja La Esmeralda, Avenida Aristóbulo del Valle 8700, a zoo and agricultural experimental station some 4 km north of the city center. A large area is devoted to local fauna and flora. Take bus 10 bis from the bus terminal

•

•

s Excursions •

Cayastá: Located some 80 km north of Santa Fe, Cayastá is where Santa Fe was originally founded by Juan de Garay in 1573, before relocation in 1651 to its present site. It was re-founded in 1867 by the French count Tessieres Le Bois de Bertrand.

Santa Fe

• •

382

The main item of interest is the archeological site 2 km outside town with the excavated ruin of the San Francisco church. Hernando Arias (known as “Hernandarias”) and his wife Jerónima, daughter of Juan de Garay, were buried in the church and their resting places have been identified. There is a camping ground; nearby is a small nature reserve used as breeding ground for yacarés and loros. Guided tours daily 10:00–12:00 and 14:00–18:00. Information about guided tours can be obtained in Santa Fe @ 4595857 San Javier is located on the banks of the Río San Javier some 156 km north of Santa Fe on RP 1. Originally founded in 1743 as a Jesuit mission to convert the local Moscoví Indians, the modern town was founded in 1884. The parochial church was built in 1879 with the help of the local Moscoví Indians, the descendants of the people who were converted to Christianity a century earlier. It is possible that a church has been on this site continuously since the days of the Jesuits. Of interest is the chapel with a carved image of Christ with Indian features, which points to a Moscoví artist. In the chapel is also a small museum. At the entrance to the village is the Monument to the Moscoví Indian made from red quebracho wood. Some 3 km north of town is a 48 ha area which has been planted not only with trees occurring in the region but also with casuarinas among others Túnel Subfluvial Uranga Silvestre Begnis: This tunnel runs under the Río Paraná, linking Santa Fe with Paraná. This outstanding engineering feat encloses a four-lane highway and was completed in 1969. It is 32 m below the river and 2.4 km long. A toll is charged. Explosives and combustibles cannot be carried through the tunnel: they must be ferried across the river Esperanza, 37 km north-west on RP 70 at the intersection of RP 70 and RP 6; for details see page 362 Guadelupe: A small beach resort 5 km north of the town center. The

SANTA FE restaurants; see “Eating out in Guadalupe” above. Bus 8 takes 20 minutes. For the return trip take bus 16, which follows the costanera for some way

Basilica Nuestra Señora de Guadelupe (Our Lady of Guadalupe Church), José de La Rosa, has beautiful painted glass windows. It is a Catholic shrine and many pilgrims make their way here. Guadalupe has many good and fashionable

VENADO TUERTO

Venado Tuerto Population: 60 000 Postal code: 2600 @ area code: (03462) Distance from Rosario: 164 km south-west on RN 33

L

ocated in the south-western part of the province in the pampa, Venado Tuerto (whose name means “one-eyed deer”!) is a pleasant town with a fine country club at which race meetings and tournaments are held twice a year. It has good tourist facilities including two golf clubs. Laguna Melincué is located 66 km west.

E Eating out •

• • •

Restaurant Almacén Belgrano, Mitre near Belgrano. Seafood

Restaurant La Choza, O. Lagos 125 Restaurant Paprika, Belgrano 666 Restaurant La Tranquera, España 305

C Accommodation in Venado Tuerto Hotels

Riviera, Alvear 799 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Bahu, Marconi near Balcarce AEFGJLPUV ** California, Belgrano 415 AEFGJLPUV ** Del Lago, Azcuénaga 740 AEFGJLPUV ** Mayo, San Martín 201 AEFGJLPUV ** San Marino, H Yrigoyen 1608 AEFGJLPUV ** Santa Fe, Santa Fe 540 AEFGJLPUV ** Touring, Mitre 847 AEFGJLPUV * González, Mitre near Castelli AELPSV * González I, Saavedra 438 AELPSV * Salta, Saavedra 889 ADEGHLPTV * San Luis, O. Lagos 247 AELPV • Colonial, 12 de Octubre 1365 • Italia, Belgrano 2175 • Posta del Sol, Chacabuco 1394 near L. de la Torre

*** **

Accommodation on RN 8 *** **

La Balsa, KM 371 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY El Molino, Marcos Ciani near RN 8 KM 368 AEFGJLPSUV

@ @ @ @

421700 424565 421452 422276

$F $G $G $H

2 2 2 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

422942 420922 421136 421648 421748 422994 422522 427814 431916 427778

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Accommodation in Elortondo Elortondo is located 33 km east of Venado Tuerto and is the nearest place offering accommodation for visitors to Lago Melincue. • Hotel 9 de Julio, 9 de Julio • Residencial Luisa, San Martín 658

@ @

383

(03462) 470167 (03462) 420027

Venado Tuerto

PAMPA PROVINCES • •

•

Restaurant LaVacaAtada,Rivadavia 518 Confitería Belgrano, Mitre 654

n Entertainment • •

Venado Tuerto Polo Club, Zona Rural @ 421906

s Excursions

•

Base 1 Disco Garden, RN 8 Tío Francis disco, RN 33

S Buses

The bus terminal is on Quintana 851 • Expreso Córdoba Mar del Plata, @ 433824 • T.A. Chevallier @ 421389 runs frequent bus services to Buenos Aires, Rosario, and Córdoba • Autotransporte San Juan Mar del Plata @ 439422

a Sport

Melincué is situated on the northern shore of Lago Melincué about 125 km south-west of Rosario. During colonial times the fort of Melincué was part of a defensive line against the Indians. The lake is fed by thermal springs which are apparently beneficial for some forms of arthritis and rheumatism. There is a colonial church in the locality. T.A. Chevallier runs 1 direct service weekly to Rosario and Venado Tuerto; local transport companies run daily services

Golf Clubs • Jockey Club de Venado Tuerto, Castelli 657 @ 421970

Stopovers

HIGHWAYS AND STOPOVERS

M

ost towns away from the two major population centers have simply sprung up as stopovers for travelers to and from the coastal towns and the interior. As such the province although a major producer of agricultural products is more aptly described as a “transit” province. Thus it is a convenient way to describe these towns off the beaten track using the national and provincial road system as a backdrop. I have used as a starting point Rosario and Santa Fe. It should be noted that the facilities in remote areas are not geared towards the needs of the sophisticated tourist, and those used to more than basic needs should visit only the towns described in detail. The information on remote areas is included for those who wish to explore areas off the beaten track.

Argentina. Tourist facilities and communications are good. I have listed the tourist facilities at Casilda, Firmat, and Chabás. Casilda 55 km west of Rosario on RN 33 near the intersection with RP 92. The Casilda Golf Club is on RN 33 @ (03464) 423143. • Hotel América, V. López 2260 @ (03464)423085 • Hotel Casilda, España 1823 @ (03464)422938 Eating out • Confitería Bartomioli, Maipú 2174 • Comedor de Tito, Casado 1900 • Restaurant La Posta, Bvar. Colón 2770 near RN 33

Rosario to Rufino

RN 33 is a major link to the south-western part of the province and to the Panamericana leading to Mendoza. The area is flat and dotted with small lagunas; it is one of the richest agricultural areas in

Stopovers

384

SANTA FE •

Eating out • Restaurant La Nueva Posta del Sol, Ave. M. Belgrano 1306 Villa Trinidad 239 km north-west of Santa Fe on RP 39. The turnoff from RN 34 is at Arrufó; and from there it is 15 km west. • Residencial Villa Sa, Cristóbal Colón 523 @ (03491)491035 Ceres 277 km north-west of Santa Fe, only 17 km from Selva already in Santiago del Estero Province. • Hotel Colonial, Ave. Chacabuco 254, @ (03491) 420218 • Residencial Alvarez, Ave. De Mayo, @ (03491) 420031 • Hotel Grand Hotel, M. Moreno 650 @ (03491) 421324 • Hostal Reama, Ave. De Mayo 638 @ (0391) 420337 Eating out • Restaurant Bon Appetit, Ave. Mayo 664 • Restaurant La Fuente, Ave. Mayo 753 • Restaurant Don Tito, RN 34. Parrilla

Restaurant Salsa Criolla, Sarmiento 2137. Parrilla

Firmat 54 km south of Casilda and 109 km south-west of Rosario. Buses leave from Bulevar Colón 1321. Casilda SA, @ (03465)423220 and Chevallier SA run frequent daily bus services from Melincué to Firmat (1 2 hour) and thence to Rosario. • Hotel Posta de Juárez, Sarmiento 1111 @ (03465) 423402 Chabás 20 km south of Casilda or 75 km south-west of Rosario. • Hotel Kalapur, Gral Roca 1991 @ (03464) 480129

Rosario to Santa Fe

Parrallel to RN 11 runs the Autopista A008 which now takes most of the heavy traffic; still RN11 is a major highway and one of the busiest in Argentina. The main settlements near the Río Paraná such as San Lorenzo, Barrancas, and Coronda are accessed by link roads. There are good tourist facilities along this route. Barrancas 106 km north of Rosario. • Hotel Italia, Paganini 869 @ (03466) 420204 • Hotel Namuncurá, Paganini 1201 @ (03466) 420937 Coronda 41 km south of Santa Fe. • Hotel Coronda, Sarmiento 1762 @ (0342) 4910141

Rosario to Sastre

RN 178 is a less frequented inland route to Córdoba via San Francisco through the agricultural heartland of the province. North of Cañada de Gómez are wetlands. There are acceptable tourist facilities in Roldán, Cañada de Gómez, Carcarañá, La Parejas, Las Rosas, El Trébol, Carlos Pellegrini, San Jorge, and Sastre. Roldán 25 km west of Rosario. • Hotel Castro, Catamarca 779 @ (0341)4961091 Eating out • Restaurant Don Pepe, Catamarca 662. Parrilla

Rosario to Ceres

RN 34 is the major highway from Rosario to Santiago del Estero Province. Numerous buses ply this route. Rafaela is the best location to have a break along this route; smaller places with tourist facilities are Sunchales, Villa Trinidad, and Ceres. Past Rafaela the facilities taper off somewhat. See Rafaela on page 362.

Cañada de Gómez 87 km west of Rosario. Bus services are provideded by ABLO, San Martín 728 @ (03471) 423113. • Hotel Universal, Schnack 29 @ (3471) 422013 • Hotel Verde Sole, RN 9 KM 377 @ (03471) 423323 • Hotel Gengha, Bvar. Ocampo 520 @ (0347) 423024

Sunchales 40 km north-west of Rafaela. • Hotel Carlos Pellegrini, Pellegrini 397 @ (3493) 420474 • Hotel Hostal del Parque, Ave. H. Yrigoyen 1340 @ (03493) 422693

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PAMPA PROVINCES •

•

Hotel San Cayetano, Urquiza 747 @ (3406) 440446 • Hotel Oitana, H. Yrigoyen 1806 @ (3406) 440011 • Motel Ciento Uno, on the highway. @ (03406) 442192 Eating out • Comedor Parrilla EG3, Ave. Alberdi near RP 13 Sastre 134 km west of Santa Fe. • Hostal Centenario, RP 13 KM 35 @ (3406) 480174

Hospedaje El Puente, RN 9 KM 363 @ (03471) 421557

Eating out • Restaurant Abuela María, Ave. Santa Fe 2550 Carcarañá 44 km west of Rosario. • Hotel El Amanecer, La Plata 1330 @ (0341) 4941172 • Hotel Peñamaria, RN 9 @ (0341) 4941257 Las Parejas 24 km north of Cañada de Gómez and 11 km west of Rosario. • Hotel Piccolini, Calle 20–965 @ (03471 )471635 Las Rosas 51 km north of Cañada de Gómez and 126 km north-west of Rosario. Bus services are provided by ABLO, Maipú 860 @ (03471) 451484. • Hotel El Portal, Libertad near Entre Ríos @ (03471) 451030 • Hotel Lomas, Libertad 619 AFGHLTY @ (03471) 450251 • Motel Eden, RN 178 @ (03471) 451922 Eating out • Restaurante El Roble, Tucumán near RN 178 El Trébol 90 km north of Cañada Gómez and 177 km north-west of Rosario. Eating out • Restaurant Los Tatos, Ave. América 909 Carlos Pellegrini 108 km north of Cañada Gómez and 195 km north-west of Rosario. Bus services are provided by ABLO, General Roca 999 @ (03401) 481048. • Hotel Iguazú, V. López 517 @ (3401) 480162 San Jorge 14 km south of Sastre or 132 km west of Santa Fe. Bus services are provided by ABLO, Lisandro de la Torre @ (03406) 443155. • Hotel Jardín, Ave. Alberdi 249 @ (03406) 441899 • Hotel Monumental SH, Sarmiento 1321 @ (03406) 440022

Stopovers

Santa Fe to the border with Chaco Province

RN 11 is the main highway north to Chaco Province and on to Formosa. The road runs mainly through flat areas, and the landscape gradually changes to chaqueño-type vegetation. There are tourist facilities in Nelson, San Justo, Gobernador Crespo, Vera, and Villa Ocampo. Nelson 43 km north of Santa Fe, about 2 km north of the intersection with RP 4. • Hotel Florida, Sarmiento 248 @ (0342) 4902023 San Justo 90 km north of Santa Fe. • Hotel California, 9 de Julio 2972 @ (03498) 427470 • Hotel España, 1 de Mayo 2427 @ (03498) 427202 • Hotel Los Angeles, Balcarce near RN 11 @ (03498) 427433 • Hotel Parador, KM 568 @ (03498) 427702 Gobernador Crespo 151 km north of Santa Fe. • El Norteño, Juan de Garay near RN 11 KM 620 @ (03498) 480061 Vera 252 km north of Santa Fe. • Hotel Alcazar, San Martín 1953 @ (03483) 421427 • Hotel Zarza, B. Rivadavia 1865 @ (03483) 422204

386

SANTA FE stead of Gato Colorado. Towns with facilities along this route are Nelson, San Cristóbal, Tostado, and Villa Minetti.

Villa Ocampo In the extreme north of the province, 74 km north of Reconquista and 60 km south of the Chaco border. • Hotel Juan de Garay, KM 872 @ (03482) 466753

San Cristóbal 172 km north-west of Santa Fe at the intersection of RP 4, RP 13, and RP 39. • Hotel Central, Belgrano 1048 @ (03408) 422125 • Hotel San Cristóbal, Bvar. San Martín 1159 @ (03408) 324203 Villa Minetti The turnoff from RN 95 to Villa Minetti is located 71 km north of Tostado. • Residencial Togrut, Belgrano @ (03491) 496080 • Residencial San Martín, Santa Fe 576 @ (03491) 496095

Santa Fe to Tostado and Villa Minetti

RP 4/RP 13/RN 95 leads into the north-western region. Leaving Santa Fe follow RN 11 north until the turnoff at Iriondo, where you enter RP 4 west. At San Cristóbal you continue north on RP 2 until Tostado. In Tostado take RN 95 north, which becomes a dirt road after 35 km. It continues north and enters Chaco Province shortly after the home-

387

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388

PATAGONIA PATAGONIA

The whole of the southern “cone” (el cono) of South America, shared by Argentina and Chile, is known as Patagonia. The Argentine portion begins south of the Río Negro–Río Colorado. Away from the coast it is mostly a dry and windswept meseta, with isolated estancias. The biggest population centers lie along the Atlantic coast and the rim of the Andes. Although the harsh climatic conditions impose restrictions on tourism, some of the country’s most important tourist attractions are located here. 389

NEUQUÉN NATAGONIA P Neuquén EUQUÉN

Plate 7 392 393 395 397 398 400 402 403 405 405 406 408 412 413 419 420 421 421 422 425 428 432 436 437 438 439 440

Map of Neuquén Province Aluminé BCDEnJKLSUXYabefs Map Andacollo ACDESbestu Caviahue and Copahue CDEnJKMRSUWYabcesu Map of Copahue Cerro Chapelco BCMRScs Chos Malal BCDELRSUbepqrsv Map Cutral-Có CEMRSp El Huecú CS Junín de los Andes BCDEnJKLMRSUWXYabepqs Map v Neuquén BCDEnJKLMPRSUVWXYaips Map Piedra del Águila BCDEJKSe Map Primeros Pinos CSc Rincón de los Sauces CS San Martín de los Andes BCDEnJKLMRSU#Yacps Map JWXYc^euv Map of the city center Villa La Angostura BCDEnJKLMSUVWX#abceip Map of the Port s Map of the city center Villa Traful BCDES#bes Zapala BCDEnJKLMRSUWXYaepqst Map v

390

NEUQUÉN he province of Neuquén is land-locked. The northern border with Mendoza is formed by the Río Barrancas and the Río Colorado, and in the east and south Lago Nahuel Huapi and the Río Limay form borders with the province of Río Negro. To the west the chain of the Andes forms a natural border with Chile.

T

best reached from San Martín de los Andes • Lago Huechulafquen near the start of the Río Chimehuin, Bahía Tranack • Lago Tromen at the beginning of Río Malleo. It can be reached from Junín de los Andes. This is also a good spot for camping • Río Chimehuin, at the point where it leaves Lago Huechulafquen Volcán Lanín has long been an attraction for mountain climbers. Its snow-topped, almost perfectly shaped cone can be seen from a long distance. This is an area of outstanding beauty. There are extensive forests and, at higher altitudes, glaciers. Recommended for experienced climbers only. Neuquén Province has four skiing regions: • Cerro Chapelco, near San Martín de los Andes • Cerro Bayo, near Villa La Angostura • Primeros Pinos near Zapala

Before the arrival of the Spaniards Neuquén Province was inhabited by warlike Indian peoples. They lived in the valleys, and the names of the mountains, mountain passes, lakes, and rivers are mostly in the Indian language. Neuquén was first colonized in 1551 by Jesuits and Franciscan monks, who had come across from Chile. They established a mission on Lago Nahuel Huapí, but constant attacks by local Indians eventually forced them to leave. The province has an excellent road system. The provincial capital is also called Neuquén, and is situated 1215 km south-west of Buenos Aires. The major attractions of Neuquén Province are the 20 or so lakes in the pre-Andean country, and the ski resorts, which are of world class, some of them in national parks. The four main parks are: Parque Nacional Lanín, Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, Parque Nacional Laguna Blanca, and Parque Nacional Los Arrayanes. Neuquén offers great opportunities for the outdoor enthusiast: mountain climbing and hiking in the national parks, skiing near San Martín de los Andes, on Cerro Chapelco, and, for the fisherman, an abundance of salmon and trout. Some of the best fishing spots are: • Río Paimún, where it drains the Lago Paimún. Lago Paimún can be reached from Junín de los Andes • Lago Epulafquen near the mouth of the Río Escorial. It is

•

Caviahue

Note there are two lakes by the name of Lago Tromen in Neuquén Province: Lago Tromen (north) is located 34 km north of Chos Malal reached on RP 2 and RP 37. Lago Tromen (south) is located in Parque Nacional Lanín near the Chilean border some 53 km north-west of Junín de los Andes, reached on RP 60. Both are in extremely beautiful and interesting areas.

391

Neuquén

PATAGONIA

ALUMINÉ

Aluminé Population: 4200 Postal code: 8345 @ area code: (02942) Altitude: 1260 m Distances From Zapala: 134 km west on RP 13 then south on RP 23 • From Junín de los Andes: 103 km north on RP 23 •

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ocated on the Río Aluminé near the junction with Arroyo Poi Pucón; it is in the heart of pehuenia country—pehuenia is a type of araucaria tree which grows profusely in this area, and whose fruit used to be the staple diet of local Indians. Aluminé is the ideal starting point for hikes through densely forested mountains and lake regions in particular Parque Nacional Lanín. The area west of town is known for its abundant rainfall: up to 6000 mm. The combination of forests, mountains and turbulent brooks cascading down into the lakes together with the homestead weaving skills of the local population attracts a growing number of tourists every year.

Camping on Lago Pulmari 34 km west of Aluminé. Camping on Lago Ñorquinco • ECO Camping Ñorquinco, 52 km west of Aluminé A; open in season only

E Eating out

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B Tourist information •

Dirección de Turismo, Torcuato Modarelli 233 @ 496154/226/149

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D Camping Camping on Lago Aluminé • Camping Lagrimas, RP 13, KM 48; capacity: 20 tents in forested area; electricity

Key to map A C D E F H I P $ T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Public telephone Gendarmería Nacional (Police) Hospital Tourist information Service station Y.P.F. Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén Bus terminal

Aluminé

Restaurant Hostería Nid Car, corner of Benigar and C Joubert Restaurant Katiuska, Ave. R.I.M. 26 Restaurant Hotel Pehuenia, Crouzeilles near RP 23 Restaurant La Posada del Rey, Christian Joubert 312 Restaurant Piu que Quien, Olascoaga near Cuatro de Carabineros

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Disco Eclipse, San Juan Bosco Disco Tequila, Avenida R.I.M. 28 de Infantería 26/844. Bar Disco World Tropic, P. Pobladores 460

3 Accommodation

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7 Tour operators and car rental

1 3 9 4 7

Hostería Nid Car Hostería Aluminé Residencial Kengo

Restaurant La Posada del Rey Restaurant La Terminal

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Amuyen Turismo de Alternativa

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Disco Eclipse, San Juan Bosco

La Unión del Sud Farmacia

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Aluminé

PATAGONIA C Accommodation in Aluminé **

** *

@

496340/8

$H

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@ @

496174 496131

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Hostería Lago Aluminé, on the lakeside near the junction of RP 13 and RP 23 AEFGJLPUV‘ @ 498019 $F Hostería Claro de Luna AELPSV $G

2 2

Hotel Pehuenia, Cruzeilles 100 Hostería Aluminé, Joubert 336 Fax 496347 Hostería Nid Car, Joubert 559

AEFGJLPSUV AEFGJLPSUV AEFLPV

Accommodation on Lago Aluminé ** *

Accommodation in Rahué Rahué is located 17 km south of Rahué at the junction of RP 46 with RP 23 and where Río Aluminé and Río Quillén meet. **

Hostería Quillén, AEFGJLPUV Fax (02942)496129; E-mail: [email protected]

@

496196

$D

2

Accommodation on Lago Moquehue Lago Moquehue is located 70 km north-west of Aluminé reached on RP 11. It is linked to Lago Aluminé by a small channel. A Hospedaje La Bella Durmiente, LP @ 496172 Zapala: @ 02942–421951. Rooms with shared bathrooms are cheaper

I Post and telegraph • • •

For canoeing enthusiasts the trip down the Río Aluminé starting in Villa Pehuenia on the shores of Lago Aluminé is recommended.

Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén, Villegas 292 @ 496130/232

s Excursions Tour operators • Amuyen Turismo de Alternativa, Villegas 348 @ 496368, fax 496215 Excursions • Caravan-cum-camping tour through the pehuenia country. The best starting point is Zapala, following RP 46 through Parque Nacional Laguna Blanca, and then turn into RP 23 further north at Rahué, where the Río Quillén joins the Río Aluminé. From here it continues to Aluminé, then north to the easternmost point of Lago Aluminé, which is the source of the Río Aluminé. Where RP 23 meets RP 13 the circuit turns east, and begins to head back towards Zapala, passing through Primeros Pinos along the way. From here on the road is sealed. The total length of the trip is 300 km, and takes about eight days

The bus stop is on Cuatro de Caballería 139. • Albus, El Petróleo @ 496395 ° San Martín de los Andes ($11.00); 3 weekly ° Zapala ($13.20; 3 hrs); 4 weekly • Aluminé Viajes, Olascoaga 59 @ 496231/376 • La Unión del Sud, Restaurante Nid Car, Aluminé ° San Martín de los Andes ($11.00); 3 weekly ° Zapala ($13.20; 4 hrs); 3 weekly Buses from Lago Moquehue • La Unión del Sud buses depart from Hostería Moquehue

U Motoring

Service station: Y.P.F., J. Ayoso 339

Aluminé

Ruca Hue, Avenida R.I.M 26. Local artesanías

a Sport

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Post office: Correo Argentino, Villegas 203 Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, Cristian Joubert near Modarelli Public telephone, Ave. R.I.M. 26–550

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$F

394

NEUQUÉN •

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Lago Aluminé and Lago Moquehue: These lakes are about 50 and 70 km north of Aluminé respectively. Lago Aluminé stretches over 54 square km. Piñihue and Batea Mahuida are only two of many magnificent mountains in this area; some peaks here are over 2000 meters high. Near the village of La Angostura the two lakes are connected by a river. The water in Lago Moquehue is colder because its source is glacial water high in the cordillera Lago Ñorquinco and Lago Pulmari: Located about 40 km west of Aluminé, reached on RP 23 and RP 11. The mountains around Lago Ñorquinco are covered with forests, and numerous streams make their way down the slopes into the lake. It is the northernmost lake in Parque Nacional Lanín Lago Quillén 44 km west on RP 46 is possibly the most picturesque of the Pehuenia lakes: it lies in the valleys of

•

•

such sheer mountains that it resembles a fiord. You can see Volcán Lanín from here. It is situated in the northern part of the Parque Nacional Lanín Lago Rucachoroi: To reach it take RP 18, which actually finishes at the lake. This lake is also in the northernmost part of Parque Nacional Lanín. The road to it passes through the Campo de Pulmari, where a battle was fought against Indians. There is an Indian reserve, Aigo, on the shores of the lake. The Indians here are expert craftsmen, and make a variety of woven materials, including ponchos In the northern part of Parque Nacional Lanín there are many hiking trails ranging from easy to difficult, all through spectacular mountain scenery. The best known hiking trails are Senda del Arroyo Malalco. The seven kilometers from the park entrance to Laguna Negrais an easy four hours hike both ways

ANDACOLLO

Andacollo Postal code: 8353 @ area code: (02948) Altitude: 1415 m Distance from Chos Malal: 54 km north-west on RN 43

A

ndacollo is located in the upper Río Neuquén valley, where the Río Varvarco and Río Lileo join to form the Río Neuquén in the foothills of the Cordillera del Viento. In the local Indian language, Andacollo means “the best mineral”, a reference to the gold still being found in the rivers and creeks of the surrounding country. The name was coined by miners who came here from northern Chile.

C Accommodation *

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Hostería Sequoya de Clemente, Varvarco 188 near Nahueve AEFLPV @ 494007 $H 2

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Camping Municipal, RP 43 KM 2; capacity 20 tents

s Excursions

Andacollo can serve as a base for further exploration of the Cordillera del Viento. • Volcán Domuyo and Laguna Varvarco Campos : A trip for the

E Eating out • •

La Unión del Sud, Hostería Secuoya, Ave. Nahueve 191 Andacollo ° Neuquén ($27.70) via Chos Malal ($4.00) and Zapala; 1 daily A municipal bus goes to Huingancó

Restaurant A.C.A., Varvarco Restaurant Doña Irma, El Torreón

395

Andacollo

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adventurous. Hiking in this area should only be be undertaken by experienced hikers. Provisions, which can be bought in Chos Malal, and proper equipment, including a tent and sleeping bag, are essential. The best period to visit this area is from November to April Huingancó: A small village 5 km east of Andacollo. Although the surrounding landscape is bare and mountainous, the villagers in Huingancó have planted some 120 000 fir trees on their town and transformed it into a green oasis. For this reason it is called the “garden of the province”. Many of the trees here have virtually been planted between rocks. The villagers are skilled artisans, and produce woven materials and delicious sweets. Nearby is a goldmine which is still operating, and produces 78 grams of gold per cubic meter Las Ovejas: 35 km further up the valley. This village derives its name from the huge flocks of sheep which used to graze around here. The Fiesta de San Sebastián attracts many visitors to Las Ovejas. From Las Ovejas a mountain trail leads to Colo Michi-có, an archeological site with rock paintings. La Unión del Sud runs 2 services weekly to and from Chos Malal (4 hrs) and Zapala (9 hrs) Los Bolillos: 15 km north. These extraordinary natural sculptures were created by wind and erosion Epu-Lauquen: A nature reserve 74 km north-west, near the Chilean border. It has been created to preserve araucanias and other trees which grow in the area, and covers about 7500 ha (18 530 acres). The tree-covered western slopes of the park contrast sharply with the eastern ranges, which are almost bare. At the center of the park are the Epulafquen lakes: blue, crystal clear, and very cold. They contain an abundance of trout, and the fishing is excellent. The best spot is the connecting river between the two lakes. This is a trip for the adventurous and experienced angler only

Andacollo

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396

Río Nahueve: This river has its source in the Epu-Laufquen lakes. There is good fishing for trout, pejerrey, and perch near the village of Nahueve Lagunas Varvarco, Tapia, and Campos: The Varvarco lakes are the source of the Río Varvarco. To reach them take the bus to Las Ovejas. From there it is about 120 km by unsealed road to the lakes. Take RP 54 rather than RP 1. The water of the lakes is clear and cold, and medium-sized trout and perch are plentiful. Be careful though: the banks are rocky and sometimes steep. Some of the peaks around the lakes are snow-covered. Four-wheel drive vehicles are necessary in this area, and hiking is only for the experienced Volcán Domuyo: 80 km north on RP 1. This is the highest point in the Patagonian Andes—just over 4700 meters. The mountain is bare of vegetation and the top is covered with snow all year round. There are also several glaciers in this region. The climate is harsh in winter and even in summer the climate can change abruptly. The attraction of the area is its volcanic activity: there are numerous hot springs, geysers, and fumaroles. Some of the geysers spout as high as 15 m. The temperature of the thermal springs averages 40°C, although one spring has a temperature of 95°C. Los Tachos, Las Olletas, and El Humazo are three of the better-known thermal springs in the area, but there are at least fifteen others. There are no tourist facilities here, but any lack of comfort is more than compensated for by the natural beauty of the gorges and waterfalls. This area is still unspoilt Fortín Guañacos: The ruins of this fort are 30 km south. It was one of many forts erected after the wars of 1882 to protect the Western frontier Cordillera del Viento Este: The best place to start hiking is Tricao Malal, which is 40 km north on RP 2. The Cordillera del Viento starts from Volcán Domuyo and goes due south for 80 km, almost to Chos Malal. The top of the range is fairly flat

NEUQUÉN throughout, and the highest point is about 3000 meters. Strong winds prevent the growth of vegetation, and in

winter the cordillera is completely covered with snow

CAVIAHUE AND COPAHUE

Caviahue and Copahue Postal code: 8349 @ area code: (02948) Altitude: 1650 m Distance from Neuquén: 352 km west on RN 22, then RP 23 and RP 70 (via Loncopue)

C

aviahue is a developing ski resort, in the Volcán Copahue area, near the Chilean border. The slopes bear stands of araucaria trees which sets it apart from the more volcanic, barren aspect of Copahue. Caviahue is becoming better known as a ski resort, but has a summer season also. There are some 12 000 ha (29 650 acres) of undulating country, interspersed with large flat areas, available for skiing. The terrain is very suitable for langlauf, or Nordic skiing. The skiing season starts in July and finishes in October. There are two skilifts. Copahue is located in the Reserva Nacional Copahue, 18 km north-west of Caviahue close to the Chilean border. The name itself is Araucanian for “sulfur place”. The town lies in a horseshoe-shaped valley formed by glacial erosion, with the open end of the horseshoe facing east. The high altitude (1980 m) makes this a bleak place, and the only real attractions are the thermal springs and Volcán Copahue, 2980 m. The resort is open from late November to April, but closed throughout winter. To get to Copahue take RN 22 via Zapala, Las Lajas, and Loncopue. The bus companies serving Caviahue also go to Copahue. The numerous thermal springs here are reputed to have excellent medicinal properties. This, and the high altitude, make it an ideal place if you suffer from arthritis, indigestion, or skin or nervous disorders.

The water in the springs can reach 90°C (220°F). The thermal springs were known to the Indian population long before the arrival of Europeans. Havestadt was the first European to bring out word of their existence in 1752. Then in 1865 Dr Ortíz Vélez received permission from Cacique Chenquel to inspect them. In 1887 the local Indians were subjugated by Colonel Olascoaga, and it became possible to study the springs without fear of harassment. The first to do this scientifically were Dr Paul Groeber and Professor H Corti. The largest and most spectacular thermal springs are right in Copahue itself, on Calle Chenquel. Others worth visiting are Laguna Sulfurosa, Laguna Verde and Laguna Verde II, and Laguna del Chancho, which is a good place for mud-baths. The green color in some of the lagunas is caused by algae.

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Caviahue and Copahue

PATAGONIA Eating out in Copahue • Restaurant Codihué, Dr. Ortíz Vélez • Restaurant Copahue

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There is also a convention center. Horse riding • Cabalgatas Caviahue • Patagonia Norte Travesía, Bungalow #3 Alpino @ 495122 Hire of ski equipment • Ciervo Rojo, Las Lengas 16 • Producer S.R.L. Bungalow 5 @ 495113 (motorized skis) Services in Copahue • Medical consultation: $25.00 • Admission to baths: $10–$15

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The airstrip is located east of Lago Caviahue; only usable in summer. • TANSE Ortíz Vélez @ 495072

3 Accommodation 1 2 3

Hotel Termas Hotel Santa Mónica Hotel Copahue

S Buses

Buses run from both Caviahue and Copahue • El Petróleo, Ortíz Vélez @ 495003 • Centenario @ 495024 ° To Neuquén (7 hrs, 20.90) Zapala (4 hrs, $11.00) and Las Lajas (2 hrs) 2 services daily during tourist seasons

Bring warm clothes with you as the temperature can drop suddenly, and even snowstorms are not unknown in the middle of summer.

B Tourist information •

Municipalidad de CaviahueCopahue @ 495036 fax; Web site: www.caviahue-copahue.com.ar

U Motoring

•

Service station: A.C.A. Motoring in Copahue The 69 km stretch of RP 70 along Lago Caviahue is now sealed. Heavy snow falls in winter may cut the road temporarily.There is only a walking trail to Chile over the Paso Copahue, at an altitude of 1996 m. The Chileans call it Paso Pucón Mahuida.

D Camping •

Camping Hueney, on access road to air strip @ 495041; capacity 50 tents

E Eating out • • •

Disco El Galpón in Convention Center

Restaurant La Reforma in Club Andino Caviahue Restaurant Doña Vicenta Restaurant Refugio Cota 1800 m

Caviahue and Copahue

398

NEUQUÉN C Accommodation in Caviahue and Copahue Accommodation in Caviahue *** *** *** **** ***

Hotel Caviahue Ski, 8 de Abril

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

@ Hotel Caviahue I.S.S.N, 8 de Abril ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Cabaña Caviahue Ski, 8 de Abril ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Apart Hotel Farallón, Caviahue base, ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ Apart Hotel Lago Caviahue, Ave. Costanera Quimey- Co ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @

$D/E 2 495064/495121 fax 495044/69 fax $F/G 2 495032/495052 $C/D 6 495062/495118 $D

495048/61

$C/D 2

Accommodation in Copahue These hotels are only open from November to April.

Club Hotel Valle del Volcán, Herrero Ducloux 120 @ Open Sept–May ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ ** Hotel Copahue, Cacique Cheuquel near Bercovich AEFGJLPUV @ ** Hotel Termas, H. Ducloux. AEFGJLPUV Reservations in Zapala: @ 02942–495045/057 * Hotel Santa Mónica, Arturo Fernández 125 AELPV @ A Residencial Codihué, Dr. Ortiz Vélez LP @ A Residencial El Dandy, LP @ ** Hostería Pino Azul, H. Ducloux near Olascoaga AEFGJLPUV @ *** Hostería Hualcupen, Olascoaga ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ * Hostería La Cabañita, H. Ducloux near Olascoaga AELPV @ • Cabañas Sturze @

****

•

2

495110

495051/495117 fax

495012 495031 495056 495071 495046/49 495023/59 495056

and Laguna Hualcupen. Trout of 3 kg are common. There are no fish in the upper section of the Río Agrio because of the sulfur carried into it by thermal springs coming from Volcán Copahue. The best fishing spots on Laguna Trolope, Laguna Achacosa, and Laguna Rincón are all on private property.

Service station: A.C.A. with camping ground

Y Shopping

So close is Copahue to the Chilean border that neighboring Chileans hold a market here in Calle Dr Herrero Ducioux three times each week. They call it the Fería de Chile, and it is a good place to buy woven materials such as blankets and ponchos.

s Excursions Tour operators • Caviahue Tours, Head office: Buenos Aires (1004), San Martín 683 @ 43123419 fax; e-mail: [email protected]. They have special arrangements between November 15 and April 30. Charter buses and charter flights to and from Buenos Aires, to and from Neuquén. In Caviahue/Copahue they organize day trips, trekking 4WD excursions and excursions on horseback. Fishing trips to Laguna Trolope in 4WD vehicle; cost $50.00

a Sport

Club Andino Caviahue, @ 495081 runs two skiing schools, one in alpine skiing, and one in langlauf skiing. The snow is dry powder, one meter deep at the base. There are cross-country ski runs of 10, 30, and 60 km, and an alpine run with a 350 m drop and a 20° slope. Capacity of ski lifts: 2000 skiers per hour; lift tickets: $15.00–$30.00 daily Sport in Copahue There is good fishing in the Río Trolope, about 11 km north, the Río Hualcupen

399

Caviahue and Copahue

PATAGONIA •

visiting Mapuche families; cost $50.00 Excursions • Reserva Nacional Copahue: The national park is a good place for extended hikes on mountain trails. The Reserva Nacional Copahue was established in 1940. It covers 400 square km and is roughly square. Along its border with Chile are four passes over 2000 m high • Río Agrio falls: 20 km • Río Trolope valley and Laguna Trolope • Los Pinos, and the Arroyo Blanco falls • Lagunas de Chancho-Có and Trapa Trapa valley: These are in Chile and can be reached via mountain trails. The 8 km trip takes 2 hrs–3 hrs

Cerro Chapelco Postal code: 8370

C

•

At Las Maquinas near the banks of Arroyo Blanco, there is a small laguna with many geysers and blow-holes. These spout regularly and it is a good place to see volcanic activity. Las Maquinitas, also on the banks of the Arroyo Blanco, has some geysers as well Volcán Copahue The trail follows Arroyo Blanco and passes the Lagunas Las Mellizas. The climb is about 1000 m, and along the way you have magnificent views of Lago Caviahue, Lagunas Las Mellizas and Volcán Villarrica in Chile. The last 200 m from Los Baños are fairly steep. You should be reasonably fit to attempt this walk

CERRO CHAPELCO

erro Chapelco is Neuquén Province’s top winter resort, located some 20 km uphill from San Martín de los Andes.

The ski resort now has 12 ski–lifts with a carrying capacity of nearly 12 000 skiers per hour and 29 ski runs, making it one of the major ski resorts in South America. The skiing season opens in the middle of June and continues up to the middle of October. Cerro Chapelco is situated in the Chapelco chain which extends in a north–south direction for 40 km between Lago Lácar and Río Caleufu. Neuquén is 440 km south-west of here, via RN 234. Continue from San Martín on RN 234 for 12 km until you reach the junction with RP 19. A further 8 km along RP 19 brings you to the base of the Chapelco skiing region. This is the route you must take going uphill, but the return trip takes the old Cerro Chapelco

RP 19 which is only 16 km and is one-way. The road is kept free of snow by the roads department. During the skiing season local tour operators run regular bus services between San Martín and the snow-fields. There are also bus services in summer. Skiing equipment can be bought or hired either in San Martín or at Cerro Chapelco. The local skiing club is the Club Andino San Martín de los Andes (known as CASMA). Visitors can stay in the Hotel Sol de los Andes, which overlooks San Martín. It has 270 beds and is expensive, but also popular—booking is recommended here. There is more choice when it comes to restaurants: there are four 400

NEUQUÉN carry 719 skiers per hour. The ride takes four minutes • Petro Hue: The lower baby lift for beginners. It starts at 1250 m and goes up to 1300 m. It is 400 m long, and can carry 800 skiers per hour. The ride takes three minutes • Pire Lil: A poma lift which starts at 1708 m and ascends to 1970 m. It is 940 m long, and can carry 800 skiers per hour. A five-minute trip • Cable car: This starts from the base at 1250 m and goes up to 1600 m. It takes five minutes to do the 1775 m trip. Each car takes six persons, and the system can transport 1800 skiers per hour The longest ski run is 3800 m, and the total area available for skiing is 120 hectares. The snow season lasts from June 20 to October 15. On average there is 40 cm of snow at the base and 1.5 m at 1000 m. The snow is dry powder of excellent quality. The inclination of the slopes varies between 10° and 45°. The snow-fields up to 1750 m are suitable for beginning and intermediate skiers, but only advanced skiers should venture beyond this altitude. The European ski instructors where appropriate have modified their methods to suit local conditions. Mono-skiing is one of the newer techniques being taught. You can hire the mono-skis, and any other skiing equipment, in Cerro Chapelco.

restaurants in Cerro Chapelco itself, and about 70 restaurants and cafés in San Martín. An efficient system of lifts and cable cars has been installed at Cerro Chapelco, and skiers should not experience undue delays in getting to the ski runs. The system has the capacity to move 12 000 persons per day, on twelve installations: Five chair lifts, four teleskis, a cable car and two baby teleskis: • Antuhue: A double chair lift which ascends from 1600 m to 1670 m. It is 400 m long, and can carry 1200 skiers per hour. A six-minute ride • Culache: A triple chair lift which starts at 1250 m and reaches 1335 m. It is 450 m long, and can carry 1200 skiers per hour. The ride takes five minutes • Rayen Lemu: A double chair lift which starts at 1350 m and climbs to 1740 m. It is 1750 m long, and can carry 832 persons per hour. The trip to the top takes 20 minutes • Epuche: A T-bar lift starts at 1600 m and goes up to 1720 m. It is 650 m long, and can carry 1200 skiers per hour. The ride takes three minutes • Graeff: A T–bar lift. It starts at 1595 m and goes up to 1720 m. It is 640 m long and can carry 1400 skiers per hour • Del Mallín: A T–bar lift starts at 1670 m and goes up to 1970 m and can carry 1400 skiers per hour • A further new T–bar lift starts at 1700 m and goes up to 1840 m. It is 460 m long and can carry 1200 skiers per hour • Palito: The upper baby lift. It starts at 1730 m and goes up to 1830 m. It is 330 m long, and can

B Tourist information

•

401

Secretaría Municipal de Turismo, @427347 fax 427695

Cerro Chapelco

PATAGONIA E Eating out

des. Air services are provided by TAN and L.A.D.E.

Restaurants • Antu–Lauquen, altitude 1600 m • Base • Los Techos • Pradera del Pluma • Rancho de Manolo, altitude 1420 m • Refugio Graeff, altitude 1720 m

S Buses

There are regular buses running direct from San Martín de los Andes to Neuquén, Bariloche, and Buenos Aires.

s Excursions

•

M Services and facilities • • • •

Daily ski-lift ticket $35.00 Weekly ski-lift ticket $195.00 Hire of skiing gear (alpine) $15.00 a day Hire of skiing gear (Nordic) $10.00 a day

Lago Lácar and San Martín de los Andes are close by. See San Martín de los Andes on page 422

R Air services

The airstrip is 10 km from San Martín, halfway on the road to Junín de los An-

CHOS MALAL

Chos Malal Population: 11 000 Postal code: 8353 @ area code: (02948) Altitude: 866 m Distance from Zapala: 193 km north on RN 40

S

ituated in the extreme north-west of the province on the Río Curri Leuvu (the upper reaches of the Río Neuquén), Chos Malal was founded in 1887 as a military fort, and was the provincial capital until 1904. Today it still retains the charm of a frontier town.

C Accommodation in Chos Malal **

Hotel de Turismo Chos Malal, General San Martín 71 near Sarmiento AEFGJLPUV @ 422472

Hosterías

El Torreón, 25 de Mayo 137 near Lavalle AELPV • Picún Ruca, 25 de Mayo 1271 • La Farfalla, Salta near Islas Malvinas

*

Residenciales A • • •

Baalbak, 25 de Mayo 920 LP Kallfu Kuyen, Jujuy 60 Anlu, Lavalle 60 Lemus, Lavalle near 25 de Mayo

Accommodation in Tricao Malal A Residencial Tricao Malal

Chos Malal

LP

402

@ @ @

421141 421585 fax 421724 421349 fax

@ @ @ @

421495 fax 421263 422628 421133

@

421739

NEUQUÉN To Mendoza

4 DE AGOSTO

40

N

CORRIENTES

43

To Andacollo

GENERAL JUSTO 1

RIVADAVIA

To Zapala

2

P

GENERAL PAZ E

D

F

40

9 DE JULIO

OLASCOAGA

URQUIZA A .P. TIS SERA

LAMADRID

LAVALLE

A

ROCA

C

SANTA CRUZ

$

SARMIENTO

MITRE

BELGRANO

SAN MARTÍN

5

4

MENDOZA

SALTA

8

ENTRE RÍOS

VILLEGAS

$

JUJUY

CHUBUT

7

I

GARDIN

6

MORENO

AVE. 25 DE MAYO

SOBERANÍA

Río Curi Leuvu

3

9

AVE. ESTANISLAO FLORES

H

ISLAS MALVINAS

CHOS MALAL Key to map A C D E F H I P $

Iglesia María Auxiliadora Municipalidad (Town hall) Encotesa Telefónica Argentina Gendarmería Nacional (Police) Hospital Zonal Tourist information Service station Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén

LA PLATA

3 Accommodation 1 6 8 9

Camping Municipal Hotel Chos Malal Residencial Kallfu Kuyen Residencial Baalback

5 Entertainment 4

9 Sights 7

4 Eating out 2 3

Restaurant Caicallen Club Caza y Pesca

Casa de la Cultura Museo Histórico Provincial “Coronel Manuel Olascoaga”

0 Services 5

Banco de la Nación

B Tourist information

The restored Fortín de la IV Division is now the Museo Histórico Olascoaga. Also included here is Tricao Malal, a small village 46 m north on RP 2.

•

Delegación Turismo Norte, Ave. 25 de Mayo @ 421425

D Camping

•

403

Camping Municipal, Rivadavia near General Justo; capacity 80 tents

Chos Malal

PATAGONIA E Eating out • • • •

s Excursions

•

Restaurant Chos Malal, San Martín 89 Restaurant Bahía Cafe, corner of Sarmiento and Urquiza. Café Restaurant Caicallen, General Paz 345. Café Cafetería El Torreón, 25 de Mayo 137. Snack-bar

n Entertainment •

Casa de Cultura, Sarmiento near San Martín

I Post and telegraph • •

Post office, Encotesa, General Paz near Urquiza Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, 25 de Mayo 384

L Financial • •

Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén, 25 de Mayo Banco de la Nación, Sarmiento near Urquiza

•

R Air services •

TANSA, Sarmiento near Mitre @ 421114 has two services weekly to Neuquén (1 hour) and Mendoza (2 hrs)

S Buses •

La Unión del Sud, T.A.C. ° To Neuquén ($24.20) via Zapala ($15.40; 5 hrs, ); 2 daily ° Las Ovejas; 2 weekly

U Motoring

RN 40 leading north is largely unsealed.

a Sport •

Fishing: Club Caza y Pesca Epulaufquen, San Martín near General Paz

•

p Sightseeing •

•

Museo Histórico Provincial “Coronel Manuel Olascoaga” (Colonel Manuel Olascoaga Provincial Historical Museum). On exhibit are personal items of the Colonel who was also first provincial governor Antigua Casa de Gobierno (Old House of Assembly)

Chos Malal

404

Reserva Provincial Tromen: 40 km north. Lago Tromen is at the center of the park. To get there from Chos Malal take RN 40 for 6 km, and then head north on RP 2. Follow RP 2 until Chapuá, then take the 20 km track which leads to the reserve. Part of Volcán Tromen (3980 m) lies within the boundaries of the park and its imposing outline dominates the whole area. This volcano features colorful rock formations, and, further down towards its base, rivers of solidified lava. Lago Tromen has no fish because sulfur is washed down from the surrounding volcanic rocks, making the water uninhabitable. The reserve was created to protect local bird-life, in particular the black-necked swan and the migrating flamingo Andacollo and the upper Río Neuquén valley: Located 58 km north-west, in the foothills of the Cordillera del Viento. First take RP 43, then RP 1. The Río Neuquén is muddy for most of the year owing to the sediment it brings down from the Andes and Volcán Domuyo. This is a gold-mining area, and the local population still makes its living from prospecting, using water-driven crushing mills and washing installations. The climate is harsh even in summer, and it is essential to bring warm, protective clothing to guard against sudden changes in the weather. This is good bush walking country for those with experience and a sense of adventure. See Andacollo on page 395 for facilities El Cholar and the valley of the Río Trocoman: 60 km west on RP 6. El Cholar nestles in a valley surrounded by high peaks. A fishing trip to Vilú Mallín on the Río Trocoman is recommended. The bumpy 15 km journey is worth it: this mountain stream is crystal-clear and teeming with trout and perch

NEUQUÉN

CUTRAL-CÓ

Cutral-Có Population: 37 000 Postal code: 8322 @ area code: (0299) Distance from Neuquén: 109 km west on RN 22

C

utral-Có and its sister town Plaza Huincul are the center of oil and natural gas production in Neuquén Province.

C Accommodation

•

Accommodation in Cutral-Có *** Hotel Alfa, Sáenz Peña near Alem ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 461119 $F 2 ** Hotel Totorici, Avenida Olascoaga near Di Paola AEFGJLPSUV @ 463730 $F 2 * Hotel FB, Irigoyen 545 AELPV @ 461345 $H 2 Accommodation in Plaza Huincul * Hostería Tunquelén, J.B. Alberdi AELPSV @ 463423 $H 1

S Buses

The bus terminal is in Elordi 170. • Centenario, La Unión del Sud, El Petróleo. T.A. Chevallier, El Valle • El Cóndor @ 4963131 • Agencia Dabel, Avenida San Martín 223 @ 465498 ° To Neuquén and Zapala 10 services daily; to Junín and San Martín de los Andes 3–4 services daily Buses from Plaza Huincul La Unión del Sud departs from Restaurante Plaza Huincul.

E Eating out Eating out in Cutral-Có • Restaurant Centro de Comercio, Roca 416. Parrilla Eating out in Plaza Huincul • Restaurant La Rueda, J.B. Alberdi 1591. Parrilla • Restaurant Un Lugar, Avenida San Martín 323

p Sightseeing

•

Museo Municipal “Fermín Godoy Díaz” (Fermín Godoy Díaz Municipal Museum), Sarmiento 149. Archeological exhibition and local history Sightseeing in Plaza Huincul • Museo Municipal “Carmen Funes” (Carmen Funes Municipal Museum), Avenida San Martín 822. Mineralogy and history of the region; also paleontology

M Services and facilities •

L.A.D.E., H. Yrigoyen 433 @ 461484 (Cutral Co)

Laundromat: Laverap, Avenida del Trabajo 709

R Air services

Aéropuerto Cutral-Có is located, 2 km from town.

EL HUECÚ

El Huecú Postal code: 8349 @ area code: (02948) Altitude: 1700 m Distance from Chos Malal: 93 km south-west on RP 26 then RP 23

405

El Huecú

PATAGONIA

E

l Huecú, altitude 1700 m, is located on RP 23 in the northern part of the province. The Indians who lived here originally put up fierce resistance to the intrusion by the Europeans. Nearby is the battlefield of Cerro de la Batería, the site of one such clash.

C Accommodation *

S Buses

•

Hostería El Huecú, RP 23 AEFLPV @ 491035

La Unión del Sud, El Petróleo Zapala ($12.10; 5 hrs ); 4 weekly ° Loncopué (2 hrs) and Las Lajas ° (3 hrs); 2 weekly

JUNÍN DE LOS ANDES

Junín de los Andes Population: 8200 Postal code: 8371 @ area code: (02972) Altitude: 773 m Distances From San Martín de los Andes: 41 km north-east on RN 234 • From Zapala: 199 km south-west on RN 40 •

J

unín de los Andes is located on the Río Chimehuin, nestling between mountains and lakes. The township was originally a fort built in 1883. In 1892 the Salesian order arrived as missionaries to the Indians. Nowadays it is the center of a cattle-raising district, and the pathway to the northern lakes region of the province. This area is famous for excellent trout fishing. The lakes area to the west and north is still inhabited largely by Mapuche Indians: indeed the township has a large Mapuche population. On the road to Puerto Canoa you pass through several Mapuche villages inside the Parque Nacional Lanín. This whole area is dominated by this almost perfect cone-shaped volcano with its perpetual snow cover on the top. •

Many beautiful areas have no accommodation other than camping grounds, some of them rather rustic. Under this section I have included camping grounds along RP 60 to Lago Tromen, RP 62 to Curruhué, Termas de Epulafquen and Paso Carirriñe and the area around Lago Huechulafquen and Lago Paimún, indicating distances from Junín de los Andes.

C Camping

• •

Secretaría de Turismo Municipal, also Parques Nacionales, P Milanesio 560 near Coronel Suárez, opposite the Plaza @ 491160 fax 491296

Junín de los Andes

Camping La Isla, Ginés Ponte near Río Chimehuin @ 491461 Camping Mallín Laura, Ginés Ponte near Río Chimehuin @ 491149

Camping along RP 60 • Lago Tromen, no facilities; 68 km Camping along RP 61 • Bahía Cañicul, some facilities; 38 km • Puerto Canoa, 56 km • Lafquén Có, some facilities; 54 km

B Tourist information •

Club Andino Junín de los Andes, O’Higgins 369 @ 491637, e-mail: [email protected]. Contact: Sr. Eduardo Greco

406

NEUQUÉN C Accommodation in Junín de los Andes Hotels ** ** *

Alejandro I, RN 234 AEFGJLPUV San Jorge, Chacra 54 AEFGJLPUV Chimehuin, 25 de Mayo 650 near Suárez AELPV

@ @

491184 491147

$G $F

2 2

@

491132

$G

2

@ @ @

491419 491155 491569/87

$D

2

@ @

491129 491175

$G $H

2 2

@ @ @

491337 fax 491255 fax 491255 fax

$F $E $E

6 4 4

@

491419 fax

$F/G

1

$D

4

Hosterías *** * *

Quillahue, RN 234 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 491278 El Montañés, San Martín 555 AELPV Posada Pehuén, Coronel Suárez 560 AELPV

Residenciales

A El Cedro, Lamadrid 409 A Marisa, J. M. de Rosas 360

LP LP

Cabañas *** *** ***

Complejo Mamá Rosa, C. Suárez 347 ABCDEFGJKLPTUVY De la Luna, J.M. de Rosas 1092 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY del Sol ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

Accommodation on RN 234 West near Airport • Hostería Quillahue E-mail: [email protected]

AFS

Accommodation in Valle San Cabao ***

Cabañas Spring Creek Lodge, on RP 61 to Lago Huechulafquen KM 8 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 491286 fax

Accommodation on Lago Paimún Lago Paimún is located 53 km west of Junín surrounded by high mountains. ***

Hostería Paimún, Full board; open December–April

@

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

491201

$E

1

Accommodation on RP 60 near Paso Tromen Paso Tromen is located 54 km west of Junín in splendid mountain scenery. This is a major road connection to Temuco in Chile. ***

Hostería San Huberto,Río Malleo Full board; open December–April

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

@

491238

$D

1

Accommodation in Puerto Canoa Puerto Canoa is located on Lago Huechulafquen 61 km west of Junín in the shade of Volcán Lanín in Parque Nacional Lanín. The national parks service and army maintain several refuges in the Volcán Lanín area. Hostería Refugio del Pescador, AELPV @ 491132 • Hostería Huechulafquen @ (02972)426075; e-mail: [email protected] • Refugio Paimún, 51 2 hrs walk from Puerto Canoa on a mountain trail (hard) • Refugio Pared Sur, 7 hrs walk from Puerto Canoa on a mountain trail (hard)

*

$D/E 2

E Eating out

Camping along RP 62 This area is particularly recommended for its wild beauty. • Curruhué Grande, no facilities; 54 km • Laguna Verde, no facilities; 55 km • Termas de Epulafquen, some facilities and hot springs; 68 km

• • • • •

407

Pizzería Roble Bar, G. Ponte 330 Pizzería Como, P. Milanesio 465 Restaurant Centro de Turismo, P Milanesio 568 Restaurant Ravese’s, San Martín 525 Restaurant Ruca Hueney, P Milanesio 641 Junín de los Andes

PATAGONIA 1

NAMUNCURÁ

To San Martín de los Andes

N

EVA DUARTE SARMIENTO

2

To Neuquén

P. ILLERA

E. SERRANO

3

J. ITURRA

MENDOZA CNEL SUÁREZ

AVE. ANTÁRTIDA ARGENTINA

ISLAS MALVINAS GINES PONTE

CÓRDOBA

BELGRANO

FELIX SAN MARTÍN

CHACO

NECOCHEA

LOLOG

5

PATAGONIA

CHILE

OLAVARRÍA

LAMADRID

L .VICUÑA

VILLARINO

4

LONQUIMAY

BVAR J. MANUEL DE ROSAS

T 6 O'HIGGINS

7

12 11 8 9 10 $

A .CACACE SAN MARTÍN

13 14 16

15 19 20

P. MILANESIO

G.A .M. 6

DON BOSCO

R.I.M. 26

I

22 18

17

21

E

A

C

24 23 25

D

26

J. NOGUEIRA

25 DE MAYO 27 28

R ío C h

im e h u

in

JUNÍN DE LOS ANDES • • • • •

n Entertainment

Restaurant La Tablita, República de Chile 206 Restaurant Los Tres Hermanos, P Milanesio 330 Restaurant Nicolás Parrilla, C. Suárez 559 Cafetería Ideal, Lamadrid 250 Querido Luco Pub, C. Suárez 445

Junín de los Andes

• • •

408

Carol Club Tropical, Coronel Suárez 563. Dancing Le Doc, Boulevard Antártida Argentina 25. Dancing Disco Winners, Avenida Argentina near Rosas

NEUQUÉN Key to map A C D E H I $ T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica de Argentina Hospital Secretaría de Turismo Municipal Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 4 5 8 9 21 26

Hotel San Jorge Cabañas De la Luna Residencial Marisa Complejo Mamá Rosa Hostería El Montañés Residencial El Cedro Hostería Posada Pehuén

27 Camping 28 Hotel Chimehuin

25 Carol Club Tropical. dancing

4 Eating out

7 Tour operators

10 11 12 13 15 16 20

Restaurant Ravese’s Cafetería Ideal Restaurant La Tablita Pizzería Roble Bar Restaurant Ruca Hueney Pizzería Como Restaurant Centro de Turismo 22 Restaurant Los Tres Hermanos 24 Restaurant Nicolás Parrilla

5 Entertainment

•

•

• •

0 Services 2 6

Fly Shop S.T.H. Club Andino Junín de los Andes 7 Nobbis Fotografía 14 Laverap Pehuén 19 Club Andino Junín de los Andes

Fishing in the lakes Fishing excursions are organised by several hosterías (Posada Pehuén, Hostería Huechulafquen, Puerto Canoa) and private persons • Club Andino Junín de los Andes, P. Milanesio 568. Information about mountain hikes and hire of equipment • Daniel Nordahl Olsen, Antártida Argentina 230 @ 491255 fax; also rafting • Moscas Junín, Cnel Suárez 169 Hunting There are many stags and red deer in this area. The hunting season starts on March 10. Pumas and wild boars can be found in the more remote mountain areas.

Andina Intern. Cambio, P. Milanesio 570 Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén, San Martín near Lamadrid @ 491164

M Services •

23 Museo Mapuche

a Sport

Post office: Correo Argentino, Don Bosco corner of Suárez Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Suárez 450 near Don Bosco

L Financial •

9 Sights

3 Le Doc. Dancing 17 Querido Luco Pub

I Post and telegraph •

18 Tromen Turismo

Fishing and camping gear: Fly Shop S.T.H., Pedro Illeira 378 Laundromat; Laverap Pehuén, G. Ponte 340 Photographic: Nobbis Fotografía, G. Ponte 211

p Sightseeing

R Air services

Aeropuerto Carlos Campos • Austral, Paseo de los Artesanos • TAN–VASP, L.A.D.E.

• •

U Motoring

s Excursions

•

Service station: Y.P.F., corner of Necochea and Manuel de Rosas (take the Zapala exit)

Tour operators • Alquimia/Tromen Turismo, Paseo Artesanal local C @ 491355; e-mail: [email protected] ° Trekking Parque Nacional Lanín, with no hard climbs; 3 days/2 nights $150.00 per person ° Excursion Lago Paimún to Termas de Lahuenco; 2 days/1 night $140.00 per person

Y Shopping • •

Museo Mapuche, G. Ponte 540 Museo Privado de don Moisés, Cnel Suárez 311

Artesanías Neuquén, Cacace near Río Negro. Silver, wood carvings Artesanías J.J., Islas Malvinas 265

409

Junín de los Andes

PATAGONIA S Buses from Junín de los Andes

The bus terminal is in Olavarría near Félix de San Martín corner of Suárez and Milanesio, just around the corner from the tourist office. From Junín de los Andes it is possible to travel to Chile with Empresa Transportes Igi-Laimi. See “Excursions” below. Bus companies • Albus @ 491713 • T.A. Chevallier, @ 491713 • Centenario S.R.L. @ 491030 ° Lago Huechulafquen; 2 daily ° Villa La Angostura; 3 weekly ° Neuquén ($22.00; 6 hrs); 1 daily ° Zapala($17.60; 31 2 hrs); 1 daily • El Petróleo, @ 491713 ° Aluminé; 1 weekly ° San Martín de los Andes (1 2 hr; $3.00) 4 daily ° Neuquén ($22.00; 6 hrs); 1 daily ° Zapala ($17.60; 31 2 hrs); 1 daily • El Valle, @ 491713 • Igi Llaima, San Martín • La Puntual, ° Aluminé; 3 weekly • Empresa Ko Ko also operates a service from Junín de los Andes to Aluminé each Tuesday. The bus leaves at 09:00 and costs $11.00. You pass an Indian reservation on the way. It also has services in summer to Bariloche via the scenic Siete Lagos (Seven Lakes) route • La Unión del Sud ° Neuquén ($25.00) via La Rinconada and Zapala; 1 daily ° San Martín de los Andes ($3.00; 1 2 hour) 3 daily ° Villa La Angostura ($12.00, 5 hrs); 3 weekly • T.A.C., @ 491861 • TUS @ 491713 • Via Bariloche, @ 491713 Long-distance services Destination Fare Bahía Blanca Bariloche $19.00 Buenos Aires $80.00 Valle, Córdoba $70.00 Mendoza Santa Rosa (la Pampa) Temuco (Chile) Temuco Via Paso Tromen

• • • • • • • •

Services 1 daily 5 daily 1 daily

Duration Company La Estrella/La Puntual, El Petróleo 3 hrs Transportes Ko-ko 22 hrs T.A. Chevallier, Centenario, El T.A.C. 12 hrs TUS/TUP Andesmar, T.A.C. TUS/TUP Buses Jac, Igi Llaima Empresa San Martín

°

• •

Excursions • Empresa Transportes Igi-Laimi and San Martín run buses to Chile via Villarrica, Temuco, Osorno, and Puerto Montt. En route you negotiate Paso Tromen, also known as Paso Mamuil Malal, and skirt Lago Tromen (south) while still on RP 60. This route is less developed than that

Climbing Volcán Lanín; 2 days/1 night $170.00 per person ° Rafting Río Aluminé; 1 day $60.00 per person Club Andino Junín de los Andes Confluencia Malleo, Pasaje 2 de Abril 529 @ 491260

Junín de los Andes

410

NEUQUÉN

•

•

via Puyehue, and closes during heavy rain or snow. Parts of it are narrow and steep. It is 64 km from Junín de los Andes to the pass, and the Argentine checkpoint is right at the pass. The Chilean checkpoint is at Puesco, some 16 km further on. There is an international bus, but officially it will only pick up passengers at Paso Tromen at departure time; sometimes it will allow travelers to board at the customs checkpoint at Puesco, but this is at the discretion of the driver. From the border it is 45 km to Currahue. There are several buses a day from Currahue to Pucón (departing 08:00 and 14:00). On the Chilean side of the border is Parque Nacional Villarrica. You can camp here but bring your own food. Hitch hiking over the Paso Tromen is difficult. See also the companion volume Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island “Region IX de la Araucania” Lago Huechulafquen, in the Parque Nacional Lanín: 20 km north-west on RP 63 (Ruta “h”). The lake has many small bays and inlets, while Volcán Lanín towers over the northern shore. In the far west of the lake is a narrow stretch of water, called “La Unión”, which forms a passageway between Lago Paimún and Lago Huechulafquen. This area is of interest historically as it was the site of bloody running battles between Argentine troops and Indians. Some 55 km from Junín at Puerto Canoa is Hostería Huechulafquen. Also at Puerto Canoa you have the opportunity to navigate Lago Huechulafquen and the adjoining Lago Epulafquen. Catamarán José Julián has a capacity of 60 passengers. There are usually six trips per day lasting 2 hrs, cost $15.00. Catamaran information: @ (02972)425142 Lago Tromen: 54 km north-west on RP 60. Not to be confused with Lago Tromen north of Chos Malal. This lake is 19 km long and 7 km wide, and is so deeply cut into the basalt rocks which form the surrounding mountains that it resembles a fiord. The water is greenish but clear, and the few

•

•

• •

•

411

beaches have volcanic sand and pebbles. The sheltered bays here make wonderful camping spots. Fishing is excellent in this lake, and attracts many local anglers. Be careful out on the lake: it can get very windy at short notice Volcán Lanín: Junín is the gateway for climbers and hikers in the Volcán Lanín section of the national park. You need a permit and/or a mountain guide if you want to climb this volcano. The national parks service has built several refuges there. The northern approach is from Lago Tromen and at 2700 m is Refugio Colonel Bedoya. The southern approach is via Lago Paimún starting at Puerto Canoa, and there are two refugios there. Climbing Volcán Lanín takes two to three days. The first day is a 5 hour climb to Refugio R.I.M.; the second day is a 7 hour climb to the peak and a 5 hour descent. Cost of mountain guide is $75.00 per day. For more information about refugios in the Volcán Lanín area see Accommodation above Auca Pan and Atreuco: Two of several native reservations in the area, both about 40 km north. An El Petróleo bus leaves San Martín de los Andes on Tuesdays 09:00 for Aluminé, passing through Junín. Ask the driver to let you off at Río Malleo for Atreuco, another 9 km walk down the track. The Indians make handicrafts which are for sale Epulafquen: Thermal springs near here, close to the Chilean border Fortín Huechu Lauquen on Lago Huechulafquen, and Fortín Mamuy Malal on the road to Lago Tromen: Two of several forts in the area built in the 1880s Pucón, on Lago Villarrica in Chile, via the Paso Tromen (altitude 1200 m). Once in Chile you pass through the superb Parque Nacional Villarrica, with views of Volcán Quetrupillan (2360 m) and, further on, Volcán Villarrica (2840 m). See the companion volume Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Región IX de la Araucania”

Junín de los Andes

PATAGONIA

NEUQUÉN

Neuquén Population: 215 000 Postal code: 8300 @ area code: (0299) Altitude: 265 m Distances From Buenos Aires: 1147 km south-west • From Mendoza: 837 km south-east •

T

he capital of Neuquén Province, Neuquén is located at the junction of the Río Limay and the Río Neuquén. It is considered the fastest-growing city in Patagonia today, with good reason: heavy industries produce engineering and construction materials, and there are rich oil-fields to the west and irrigated fruit orchards in the valleys to the east. These orchards are sheltered by long rows of eye-catching windbreaks; the main crops are apples, pears, and grapes.

Key to map A B C D E H I P $ T

Catedral María La Auxiliadora Gobernación Provincial (Government) Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica Argentina Hospital Dirección Provincial de Turismo A.C.A. Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 15 16 19 23 24 25 27 29 39 40 44 49 59 62 65 66 67

Hotel Italia Residencial Neuquén Hospedaje Imperio Hotel Suizo Hotel Apolo Residencial Alcorta Apart Hotel Casino and Hotel Nuevo Parque Hotel Ideal Hotel Charbel Hotel Crystal Hotel Iberia Hotel Royal Hotel del Comahué Hospedaje Pani Residencial Belgrano Hotel Huemul Residencial Musters Hotel Amucán

Neuquén

68 Residencial Inglés

52 Sala de Arte Emilio Saraco

4 Eating out

6 Airline offices

2 3 6

14 17 21 26 28 30 31 34 35 36 37 38 42 43 46 50 51 55 57 58 60 61

Confitería Quitepenas Restaurant Shanghai Restaurant La Casa de mi Nieto Restaurant El Tío Pizzería Pop Hot Pizza Restaurant La Aguada de Coco Cafetería Jimmy Bar Confitería Aladín Café Claudio Restaurant El Sótano Cafetería Patio del Alto Pizzería La Tartaruga Café John L. Cook Restaurant La Nonna Francesa Restaurant Chino Cafetería Cap Ferrat Cafetería Siete Uno Cafetería El Ciervo Restaurant El Ruedo Cafetería La Terminal Café Italiano Restaurant La Rural Restaurant La Fusta Restaurant Pastilandia Restaurant Barracuda

5 Entertainment 4 Disco Blip 9 Café El Colonial 10 Disco Krono’s

412

18 20 41 48 54 56

L.A.D.E. SW LAPA Kaikén Líneas Aéreas Austral–AR TAN–VASP

7 Tour operators and car rental 11 12 22 32 63

Localiza Budget Rent a Car Avis Rent-a-Car Exterior Turismo Domuyo SRL

9 Sights 7

Museo Histórico Provincial

0 Services 5 8 13 33 45 47 53 64 69 70 71

Migraciones Chilean Consulate Cambio Pullman Casa de Cambio Olano Turismo Municipal El Mangrullo and Artesanías TYA Paseo de los Artesanos Y.P.F. Italian vice-consulate Laverap Former General Roca train station

NEUQUÉN To Bariloche and Zapala 237

22 INT. CHANETON

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C.H. RODRÍGUEZ

7 LA RIOJA

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B

9 10

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22 21

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6

19 9

D

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15 16

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34 35 36

37

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32

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33

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27

17

H. YRIGOYEN

J.B. JUSTO

25 26

SAN MARTÍN

SAN LUIS 28 29 30

SARMIENTO

23

M. ALCORTA

24

B

B

T. PLANES JULIÁN LASTRA

14

VA

12

AVENIDA OLASCOAGA AVENIDA ARGENTINA

45

BUENOS AIRES

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58

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71

63

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Parque Central

Plaza J.V. González MENDOZA

66

67 TIERRA DEL FUEGO

22

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69 68

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65

61 62

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47

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41

RIVADAVIA

Parque

INDEPENDENCIA

T

OBLIGADO

B. MITRE

P. MORENO

FÉLIX SAN MARTÍN PERTICONE

To Río Limay

39 40

TUCUMÁN

70

BAHÍA BLANCA ENTRE RÍOS

NEUQUÉN

To Bahía Blanca

413

Neuquén

PATAGONIA The main shopping street is Avenida & • La Nonna Francesa, Diagonal 9 de Julio 65. Trattoria Argentina, which has a center strip • La Rural, J B Alberdi 126. Parrilla planted with trees: the benches un• Pastilandia, Félix San Martín 246. Reder them are a pleasant place to rest gional cuisine or eat lunch. • Shanghai, Salta 56. Chinese cuisine; open Tues–Sun 12:00–15:00, Don’t confuse San Martín and 20:00–01:00 Félix San Martín—they are different Pizzerías streets entirely. Centenario, with 27 000 inhab- & • Café El Colonial, Roca 285 • La Tartaruga, Avenida Argentina 376 itants and located 15 km north on • Pop Hot Pizza, Irigoyen 90 RP 7, is virtually a suburb of Confiterías Neuquén. The motel here is excel• Aladín, Sarmiento 76 lent. • Café Claudio, San Luis 224 • Café Italiano, Buenos Aires 133 • Café John L. Cook, Belgrano 6 Dirección Provincial de Turismo, • El Colonial, Roca 285. Music Félix San Martín 182 @ 4424089 fax • Jimmy Bar, Avenida Olascoaga 267 4432438 • La Terminal, Mitre 129 Turismo Municipal, Buenos Aires 160 & • Cap Ferrat, Rivadavia 96 @ 4424803 • Patio del Alto, Avenida Argentina Ente Provincial de Termas, Roca 565 344 @ 4422153 fax 4424687 • Quitapenas, San Martín 533. Music Guardafauna, Puente Carretero • Siete Uno, Rivadavia 71 @ 4425020; you can get fishing licences here Eating out in Balneario Río Grande • Restaurant Los Asadores. Parrilla Camping & • Restaurant La Riviera. Parrilla Camping Municipal, Balneario Mu• Restaurant Polo Club, RN 22 KM nicipal on Río Limay Bolívar near 1220. Regional cuisine Huilliches AFR • Restaurant Tennis Club, Olascoaga 1355. Regional cuisine

B Tourist information •

• • •

D •

E Eating out

n Entertainment

Restaurants • Chino, Diagonal 9 de Julio 58. Chinese cuisine • Don Pipo, J.B. Justo 120. Parrilla • El Ciervo, Avenida Argentina 219. Seafood • El Crucero, Olascoaga 583. Seafood • Barracuda, Rivadavia 265. Regional cuisine & • La Fusta, J.B. Alberdi 176. K • El Plato, J.B. Alberdi 158 • El Tío, San Luis 265. Regional cuisine • El Ruedo, Mitre 123. Regional cuisine • El Sótano, San Martín 41 & • El Trébol Blanco, Láinez near Lastra. Parrilla • La Aguada de Coco, Almte Brown 243 • La Casa de mi Nieto, Santiago del Estero 41

Neuquén

• • • • • • •

Casino Magic Neuquén, RN 22 KM 7 near airport Complejo Cultural Estación del Ferrocarril. Former Roca railroad station Disco Blip, Salta 95 Disco Krono’s, Roca 275 Disco Pirkas, Santiago del Estero near 9 de Julio Sala De Arte “Emilio Saraco”, former Roca railroad station Tanguería 840, Santa Cruz near Libertad. Tango dancing

I Post and telegraph

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414

Post office: Correo Argentino, Rivadavia block 200 near Santa Fe Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, J B Alberdi 243 near Córdoba

NEUQUÉN C Accommodation in Neuquén Apart Hotels **

Hotels **** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * * *

Casino, M. Alcorta 19 E-mail: [email protected]

$E

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del Comahué, Avenida Argentina 377 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 4432040 @ 4422439/40 Apolo, Olascoaga 361 AEFGJLPSUV @ 422334 Crystal, Olascoaga 268 AEFGJLPUV @ 4422414 Iberia, Olascoaga 294 AEFGJLPUV @ 4423653 Ideal, Olascoaga 243 AEFGJLPUV @ 4422431/2 Royal, Avenida Argentina 143 AEFGJLPUV @ 4422408 Amucán, Tucumán 115 AELPV @ 4425209 Charbel, San Luis 268 AELPV @ 4424143 Huemul, Tierra del Fuego 335 AELPV @ 4422344 Italia, J.B. Justo 782 AELPV @ 4422234 Nuevo Parque, Olascoaga 271 AELPV @ 4425086 Suizo, C.H. Rodríguez 167 AELPV @ 4422602

Residenciales A A A A A B B •

@

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Alcorta, M. Alcorta 84 Belgrano, Rivadavia 283 Inglés, Félix San Martín 534 Musters, Tierra del Fuego 255 Neuquén, J.B. Justo 109 Imperio, H Irigoyen 66 Pani, Félix San Martín 238 La Frontera, Ignacio Rivas 352

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

LP LP LP LP LP L EHL AHP

Accommodation in Colonia Valentina Colonia Valentina is a suburb of Neuquén near the airport. Motels Arrayán, RN 22 Hostal del Caminante, RN 22 • Holiday Inn Express, at the airport

*** ***

Accommodation in Centenario

&

**

Motel Sayhueque, RP 7

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Accommodation in Arroyito Arroyito is located 50 km south-west of Neuquén on RN 22. ***

Motel Posta Arroyito, RN 22

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

L Financial • • •

P Visas, passports

• •

Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén, Avenida Argentina 41. ATM Casa de Cambio Olano, J B Justo 97 @ 430204 Cambio Pullman, Ministro Alcorta 144 @ 422438 Laundromat: Independencia 513

Chile, La Rioja 241 @ 4422727 Italian vice-consulate, P. Moreno 549 @ 4424457

U Motoring

The road to Buenos Aires is sealed all the way. Service stations • A.C.A., Diagonal 25 de Mayo near Buenos Aires • Y.P.F., Chubut 291 near Mitre

M Services and facilities •

@

Laverap,

415

Neuquén

PATAGONIA R Air services from Neuquén

Aéropuerto Internacional del Neuquén is at Colonia Valentina, 7 km from town. • Austral–AR, Santa Fe 54 @ 4422409/423486 fax 4425087 • L.A.D.E., Alte Brown 163 near C Rodríguez @ 44311153; e-mail: [email protected]. For flight itineraries see the L.A.D.E. section under Air Services from Buenos Aires City on page 66 • LAPA, Avenida Argentina 35 @ 4488335 fax • TAN–VASP, Diagonal 25 de Mayo 180 @ 4424834 fax 4422039; e-mail: [email protected] ° Bariloche (11 4 hrs) and Comodoro Rivadavia; 1 weekly ° Chapelco and Bariloche; 2 weekly • Kaikén Líneas Aéreas, Avenida Argentina 327 @ 4471333/4437017 ° Comodoro Rivadavia via Bariloche and Esquel; 1 weekly • Southern Winds, Ave. Argentina 327 @ 4420142; e-mail: [email protected] ° Bahía Blanca (11 2 hrs); 5 weekly ° Buenos Aires (11 2 hrs) 4 daily ° Buenos Aires via Bahía Blanca and Mar del Plata; 1 weekly ° Comodoro Rivadavia via Viedma and Trelew; 1 weekly ° Comodoro Rivadavia; 6 weekly ° Córdoba (41 4 hrs) via Mendoza; 5 weekly ° Córdoba via San Juan; 1 weekly ° Mendoza; 2–5 weekly ° Mendoza via Chos Malal; 2 weekly ° Trelew; 1–2 weekly ° Ushuaia via Bariloche, C. Rivadavia, Lago Argentino, Río Gallegos,and Río Grande; 3 weekly •

Car rental • A1 Rent-a-Car, Perticone 735 (RN 22) @ 4438714 • Avis Rent a Car, J.J. Lastra 1196 @ 4430216 fax 4484926; e-mail: [email protected] • Budget , T. Planas 129 @ 481964 fax • Localiza, La Pampa 462 @ 4420875

•

p Sightseeing

•

Y Shopping

•

A Fería de Artesanos is held Sat and Sun just outside the cathedral. • Artesanías TYA, Avenida Argentina 257 • El Mangrullo, Avenida Argentina 253. Handicrafts • Artesanías Mapuche, M T de Alvear 62 (corner of Yrigoyen) • Paseo de los Artesanos, former General Roca railroad station

Museo Histórico Provincial (Provincial History Museum), San Martín 280 in Parque Central. Open Mon–Fri 10:00–12:00 and 15:00–19:00 Museo de Ciencias Naturales (Natural Science Museum), Avenida Argentina 1400

Sightseeing in Villa El Chocón Villa El Chocón is located 84 km southwest of Neuquén on RN 237. • Museo Paleontológico “El Chocón” (El Chocón Paleontological Museum). Fossilized remains of dinosaurs and petrified tree trunks from the area

a Sport •

Aero Club Neuquén, Aeropuerto Colonia Valentina @ 4465980 Golf • Arroyito Country Club, Arroyito 8313 @ 4902022; 18 holes. The turn-off is 14 km west off RN 22 near Senillosa

Neuquén

Comahue Golf Club, Valentina Norte @ 4440360/4441194 El Rincón Club de Campo, Paraje Rincón de Emilio @ 4425859/4425456

s Excursions Tour operators • Domuyo SRL, Santa Fe 345 @ 4431279 fax 4425337

416

NEUQUÉN S Buses from Neuquén

Neuquén is an important provincial transport centre. The bus terminal is on B Mitre 147, between Corrientes and Río Negro. Bus companies • A5 Alto Valle @ 4434510 ° Rincón de los Sauces; 2 weekly. This bus passes east of the Sierra de Auca Mahuida on RP 8 on its way north • A27 Centenario S.R.L. @ 4488778 ° Caviahue and Copahue (61 2 hrs); 1 daily ° Centenario and Barda del Medio; every 15 minutes ° San Martín de los Andes ($28.00; 7 hrs) via Junín de los Andes ($25.00; 6 hrs) ; 2 daily ° Zapala via Cutral-Có; 5 daily • A33 T.A. Chevallier @ 4423791 ° San Martín de los Andes (61 4 hrs) via Cutral-Có, Zapala and Junín de los Andes; 1 daily ° Piedra del Águila (23 4 hrs); 2 weekly • A64 El Petróleo @ 4484601/4423661 ° Arroyito (1 hour); 2 daily ° Caviahue and Copahue ( $20.90; 6 hrs); 4 weekly ° Cutral-Có ($4.40; 2 hrs); 7 daily ° Piedra del Águila (4 hrs) via El Chocón (1 hour, $3.30); 1–2 daily ° Las Lajas ($8.80); 1 daily ° Loncopué (8 hrs); 1–2 daily ° San Martín de los Andes ($28.00; 71 4 hrs) via Junín de los Andes ($25.00; 6 hrs) ; 2–3 daily ° Villa la Angostura ($30.00; 12 hrs, ); 1 daily ° Zapala (3 hrs); 11 daily • A71 El Rápido Internacional @ 4427054 • A81 Andesmar @ 4422216 ° Piedra del Águila (3hrs); 1 daily • A110 Empresa San Martín @ 4488778 • A121 Expreso Caraza @ 4423661 • A143 Igi Llaima @ 4423661 • A155 La Estrella S.R.L. @ 4427054 • A200 Ruta Sur @ 4487606 • A211 T.A.C. @ 4421244 • A218 Transporte Tirsa @ 4436237 • A220 Transporte Mercedes @ 4423661 • A224 La Unión del Sud @ 4484052 ° Aluminé (61 2 hrs); 3 weekly ° Barrancas (12 hrs) via Zapala, Buta Ranquil; 2 weekly ° Las Ovejas (11 hrs) via Arroyito, Plaza Huincul, Cutral-Có($4.40; 2 hrs), Zapala ($9.00; 3 hrs), Covunco, Bajada del Agrio, Paso del Salado, Naunauco, Chos Malal ($24.00), Andacollo ($27.50), Nahueve, and Bella Vista; 1–3 daily ° El Cholar (91 2 hrs); ° San Martín de los Andes ($28.00; 6 hrs) via Junín de los Andes ($25.00; 6 hrs); 2 daily ° Primeros Pinos (31 2 hrs) ° Tricao Malal (101 2 hrs) via Zapala, and Chos Malal; 2 weekly • A239 Ko–Ko @ 4487606 • A251 TUS @ 4420270 • A252 UTE Comahue @ 4434510

417

Neuquén

PATAGONIA Buses from Neuquén — continued •

A262 El Valle @ 425168 ° Piedra del Águila(3 hrs); 1 daily ° San Martín de los Andes ( $28.00; 7 hrs) via Junín de los Andes ($25.00; 61 4 hrs) ; 4 weekly ° Zapala ($9.00; 31 2 hrs) via Cutral-Có); 1 daily • A263 Del Sur y Media Agua @ 4488778 • A265 Via Bariloche @ 4427054/4430959 • A266 Aluminé Viajes @ 4427054 ° Aluminé (51 2 hrs); 3 weekly • A302 Don Otto @ 4423661 • A305 Costera Criolla @ 4423661 • A347 Albus @ 4422216 ° Aluminé (6 hrs); 3 services weekly ° San Martín de los Andes (6 hrs) via Junín de los Andes; 1 service daily • A348 Narbus @ 4423661; to Chile • Transporte El Caminante @ 4427054: Rincón de los Sauces (4 hrs); 4 daily • Transporte El Gringo: Rincón de los Sauces • Transporte Mosconi: Rincón de los Sauces, Long-distance services • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

& • •

Destination Fare Services Bahía Blanca $30.00 4 daily Bariloche $30.00 5 daily Buenos Aires $45.00 5 daily Comodoro Rivadavia $65.00 2–3 daily Córdoba $72.00 2 daily El Bolsón $42.00 1–2 daily Esquel $56.00 1–2 daily Mar Del Plata Mendoza $46.00 3–4 daily Osorno (Chile) $45.00 Puerto Madryn $39.00 5 weekly Rawson Río Gallegos $111.00 1–2 daily Rosario $75.00 2 daily San Luis 4 weekly San Rafael $27.50 4 daily Santa Fe $80.00 Santa Rosa $28.00 4 daily Temuco Via Paso Tromen $49.00 Trelew $42.00 1–2 daily Valdivia (Chile) $46.00 Viedma Villarrica (Chile) via Paso Tromen

Duration 8 hrs 7 hrs 15 hrs 15 hrs 17 hrs 10 hrs 12 hrs 12 hrs 12 hrs 28 hrs 14 hrs 11 hrs 16 hrs 9 hrs

A81, A211, A302 A33, A155, A251 A81, A220 A5, A81 A262 A5, A81, A211, A263 A81 A81, A302 A81 A81, A302, A211 TIRSA, A33 T.I.C.S.A A5, A81, A211, A263 A5 A5, A33, A262

A81, A110, A143, A224 11 hrs A81, A302 A81 10 hrs A155, A262 A110, A143, A224

•

Mari Mari, Salta 82 @ 4470054; e-mail: [email protected] Excursions • Bariloche: The road south-west is now completely sealed. It is a

Exterior Turismo, San Martín 29 @ 4431461 fax 4430359. Also money exchange G u s t a v o O l s e n , e - m a i l : s a f [email protected]; organises fishing trips and safaris

Neuquén

Company A155, A262 A81, A220, A251, A262,A265 A33, A155, A262

418

NEUQUÉN pleasant drive through orchards to Arroyito, where there is a hotel. From there the road follows the northern rim of the Embalse Ramos Mexia, an

artificial lake created by damming the Río Limay

PIEDRA DEL ÁGUILA

Piedra del Águila Postal code: 8315 @ area code: (02942) Altitude: 573 m Distance from Neuquén: 222 km west on RN 237

P

iedra del Águila — the name means “Eagle’s Rock”— is located about 5 km north of the Río Limay. The main attraction is the nearby Río Limay with swimming facilities and good fishing; RN 237 goes straight through the town center where most of the tourist facilities are located. Note that the southern lane (going to Neuquén) is called Los Cerritos and past Sarmiento is called Conrado Villegas; the north lane (going to Bariloche) is called Dr. Gregorio Alvarez throughout town.

B Tourist information •

n Entertainment

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Dirección de Cultura y Turismo Municipal, Las Bardas 55 @ 493115

C Accommodation

I Post and telegraph

•

• •

Hotel Chamonix, David Zapata 133 @ 493215 * Hostería El Ciervo, Lanín 55 AELPV @ 493267 $H 2 A Residencial El Cristal, Dr. Gregorio Alvarez LP @ 493111/493201 $H 2 A Residencial Ruca Peñi, Almte. Brown 109 Accommodation on RN 237 *** Hotel Ranch, Estancia Santa Teresa 25 km from town; full pension ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 493125 $E 1

Correo Argentino, Las Bardas 233 Telefónica de Argentina, Avenida San Martín 101

L Financial

•

Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén, C. Villegas 52

M Services and facilities

• •

Pharmacy: Farmacia Sur, C. Villegas 36 Fotography: Michel, 9 de Julio 70

S Buses

D Camping •

Casa de la Cultura “Quimey Tuhun”, San Martín 34

There are four bus stops (“paradores”) in Piedra del Águila.

Camping Municipal, Las Rosas 571 @ 493115; capacity 50 tents on 1.5 ha; little shade

Parador Michelangelo, Winter near Villegas @ 493306; restaurant • T.A. Mercedes, Centenario, TUS, El Pampa, El Rápido, El Valle, El Petróleo, Cono Sur and La Unión Del Sud; services to Neuquén and Bariloche

E Eating out Restaurants • Barilo, C. Villegas 182 • Charleston, Sarmiento 156 • Keops • La Donna, Los Cerritos 21 • Meulen, Sarmiento 13

419

Piedra del Águila

PATAGONIA 237

E WA

LO S O

LT E R

13

R AY E

N

OSAS LAS R 12 A L IA S LAS D

ARDA

C AY

AM S AL

N

LÓP

EZ A

9

O

OR

A PA TA

M 5 DE

9 DE

3

6 $

GENERAL MITRE 2

IO

ADA

7 SARMIENTO 5 4

JUL

H

AY O

VIA

4 6 12 13

C

ic o

L. F

1 GENERAL GÜEMES

ERN ÁND

Arroy

Á

o Sañ

GRA

CA

UR

EZ O

GENERAL WINTER

237

V. LÓPEZ

ALMTE. BROWN

RO

I

Farmacia del Sur Photography: Michel Casa del Turista Isaura service station

Parador Chamonix, J.A. Roca 77 @ 493128; cafetería • Andesmar, Quilla–Peñi. 1 service daily to Bariloche (3 hrs), El Bolsón (5 hrs) and Esquel (71 4 hrs) Parador Atalaya, C. Villegas 166 @ 493219; restaurant • Tirsa: Buses run regularly to Neuquén and Bariloche • Empresa Cono Sur ° Rincón Chico; 4 daily

T

C LFU

Casa de la Cultura

0 Services

MANUEL BELGRANO

8

2

RIV

9 A

ES

Restaurant Barilo Restaurant Charleston Restaurant Keops Restaurant Meulen Restaurant La Donna

5 Entertainment

GENERAL SAN MARTÍN

Parque San Martín

D BLA

D

LAS BARDAS ADOLFO ALSINA

S. P

O

1 3 5 7 8

P

D. Z

PRO

4 Eating out 11

LAS ROCAS

LANÍN

P

IZ

T 10

REN

2 Residencial Ruca Peñi 10 Hostería El Ciervo 11 Camping Municipal

OS

LAN

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica de Argentina Hospital Tourist information A.C.A. Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén Parador Atalaya and Parador El Cristal

3 Accommodation

S

LO

MO

A C D E H I P $ T

LMOS

AMAN

TO ERI

Key to map

PIEDRA DEL ÁGUILA

LAS B

OS EZ E R R IT LV A R LO S C R IO A REGO DR. G

JORG

TO NEUQUÉN RO NEG RÍO

U Motoring

TO BARILOCHE

Service stations • A.C.A., Dr. Gregorio Alvarez near Primeros Pobladores • Isaura, Dr. Gregorio Alvarez 666

Parador El Cristal, Los Cerritos 355 @ 493239; restaurant • T.A. Chevallier, La Estrella, Alto Valle

Piedra del Águila

Y Shopping

•

420

Regional Articles: Casa del Turista, Los Cerritos near Las Dalias

NEUQUÉN

PRIMEROS PINOS Altitude: 1630 m at the base @: Operator connected, dial 19 Distance from Zapala: 50 km west on RP 13

T

he winter resort of Primeros Pinos, set in the foothills of the Andes among araucania forests, is a good place for beginner skiers. The resort itself comprises two parts: the base area Primeros Pinos at 1600 m, and Cerro Quelli Mahuida at 1810 m. There is a ski school, ski hire, restaurant, and café at base level, and a cafeteria, teleski, and ski lift above at Cerro Mahuida. The skiing season runs from July 1 to September 30. There are 6 ha (15 acres) of skiing area.

Cerro Quelli Mahuida

On average there is about 0.7 m of dry compact snow. At the base, the slopes incline at an angle of about 20°. Primeros Pinos is good for beginners and intermediate skiers. Skiing equipment for Alpine skiing can be hired at Primeros Pinos. They have about 100 pairs of skis for hire. A sign at the base of the ski run indicates what services are available on a particular day. Ski clubs with facilities here are: Club Andino Zapala, Caza y Pesca, and Club Andino Chachil.

Upper area; total capacity is 600 skiers per hour; daily lift tickets cost $15.00.

C Accommodation

Booking is essential if you want accommodation right on the snow-fields. See also Accommodation in Zapala on page 439. ** Hostería Primeros Pinos AEFGJLPSUV @ (02942)421163 $G 2. 28 beds

S Buses

•

Base area

•

Facilities, near the hostería include: • Teleski Borer: 150 m long, can carry 600 skiers per hour, height difference 130 m • School ski lift: 130 long, can carry 600 skiers per hour, height difference 20 m

Empresa Unión del Sud operates buses from Neuquén and Zapala ($44.00) @ (02942) 421363 Empresa Alvarez Internacional, Avenida Trannack 1440, Zapala @ 421376. Their address in Buenos Aires is 5th floor, 508 Avenida Santa Fe 1780 @ 410397. This company organizes skiing trips from Zapala twice a day in the skiing season. They leave Zapala at 10:00 and 13:00, and return from Primeros Pinos at 10:45 and 13:45. The trip takes about an hour

RINCÓN DE LOS SAUCES

Rincón de los Sauces Postal code: 8319 @ area code: (0299) Distances • To Neuquén 212 km south on RP 8 • To 25 de Mayo (La Pampa Province) 160 km east on RP 8 and RP 6

421

Rincón de los Sauces

PATAGONIA

R

incón de los Sauces (”Willow Corner”) is located on the Río Negro which makes its way between two volcanic mountain ranges, Sierra de Chachahuen in La Pampa Province (2065 m) and Sierra de Auca Mahuida in Neuquén Province (2253 m).

S Buses

•

The three bus companies run daily frequent services to Neuquén. • Transporte Mosconi, Mosconi 1280 @ (0299) 4887555

•

Transporte El Gringo, San Martín 1364 @ (0299) 4886478 Transportes Bazanta, Parque Industrial @ (0299) 4886030

C Accommodation in Rincón de los Sauces Hotels • • • • • • •

El Popeye, Ave. Mosconi 608 El Zorro, La Rioja 290 Holidey, Parque Industrial Laura, Ave. Pres. Perón 1099 Michelangelo, San Martín near Mosconi Hotel Rincón, Ave. 30 de Octubre Hotel San José, Río Negro 809

@ @ @ @ @ @ @

(0299) 4886558 (0299) 4886652 (0299) 4886470 (0299) 4886069 (0299) 4886053 (0299) 4886606 (0299) 4886287

SAN MARTÍN DE LOS ANDES

San Martín de los Andes Population: 20 000 Postal code: 8370 @ area code: (02972) Altitude: 655 m Distances • From Junín de los Andes: 41 km south-west on RP 234 • From Zapala: 240 km south-west on RN 40 then RP 234

S

an Martín de los Andes is located at the eastern end of Lago Lácar. It is well geared for tourism with accommodation for over 3000 people in a variety of hotels. It is a good starting point to explore the Parque Nacional Lanín, with its idyllic lakes and wooded mountain valleys, all dominated by the snow-capped Volcán Lanín. Its main attraction however is the nearby Cerro Chapelco ski area. The Valle de Lácar was annexed in 1898 by the forces of General Rudecindo Roca. This was the area which was settled by the Mapuche tribe led by Cacique Curruhuinca. The area’s main source of income was timber, which was shipped to Chile because the road system into Argentina was for a long time inadequate.

San Martín de los Andes

In 1937 Parque Nacional Lanín was established and from then onwards tourism gradually became the mainstay of the economy. The popular skiing resort of Cerro Chapelco is only 18 km from here, and can be reached on an excellent road which is kept open even after heavy snowfalls. Drivers should note that trafic is one-way on RN 234 as far as the turn-off east onto RP 19. 422

NEUQUÉN D Camping

For a shorter return route take RP 19 all the way north to San Martín. See Cerro Chapelco on page 400. The surface of Lago Lácar covers 50 square km (19square miles). It measures 24 km long and 3 km wide, and is 640 m above sea level. The deepest point is 77 m. The site of San Martín was once under the waters of Lago Lácar, at a time when the lake emptied into the Atlantic Ocean. The water level dropped, however, and the lake found an outlet into the Pacific Ocean. Also included here is the small village of Loglog some 7 km north of San Martín. Empresa San Martín and Transportes Ko-Ko run three services daily ($2.00). San Martín is a good base for trips into neighboring Chile. Please note: Do not confuse General Roca and Rudecindo Roca streets; they are different streets!

•

Camping on Lago Lácar RN 108 • Camping Quila Quina, 12 km west @ 428719 fax. Capacity 70 tents on 3 ha AFLW; bicycle and horse hire

E Eating out

Most restaurants start to serve dinner around 21:00. There are over 70 restaurants in San Martín de los Andes catering for all tastes and price levels. Restaurants • La Fondue de Betty, Villegas 586. Swiss cuisine • Club Lácar, Rivadavia 599. Parrilla • El Ciervo, Villegas 724. Regional cuisine • El Derby, Villegas 657. Trout and venison • La Mendieta, Ave. San Martín 713 • La Tasca, Mariano Moreno 866 • La Tinaja, Ave. San Martín 456 • Las Catalinas, Villegas 743. International cuisine • Las Leñas, Belgrano 461. International Cuisine • Mi Viejo Pepe, Villegas 725. Regional cuisine • Paprika, Villegas 744 • Piscis, Villegas 598 corner of Moreno. Seafood • Radal, Perito Moreno 838 Cafeterías and confiterías • Pancho Villa, San Martín 465 • Peumayen, San Martín 851 • Peperone, Ave. San Martín 820 Eating out outside San Martín del los Andes • Restaurant Arrayán, Mirador Arrayán, 3 km from town center • Restaurant Hua Hum, RP 48. International cuisine • Restaurant Hotel Sol de los Andes, RP 19. International cuisine

B Tourist information •

•

•

A.C.A. Camping, Avenida Koessler 2176, RN 234 east. The kiosk is not open all year round

Secretaría Municipal de Turismo Rosas 790, in the main square near the corner of San Martin @ 427347 fax 427695; e-mail: munitur@smandes. datacop8.com.ar. Open 08:00–24:00 in summer, 08:00–21:00 in winter. Web site: www.smandes.gov.ar (English and Spanish). One of the best Web sites. You can virtually plan your own program and attach costs. Particularly impressive is the section on activities such as hikes, skiing mountaineering, excursions, and fishing Intendencia Parque Nacional Lanín, E. Frey 749, opposite the Plaza. Information about hikes and cabins in the national parks Asociación de Guías de Montaña (Argentine Mountain Guide Association), @ 422178. Contact: Sr. Manuel de la Cruz

n Entertainment

• • • • •

423

Casino Magic, Hotel Sol de los Andes Cine Amancay, General Roca 1154 Club Náutico, Avenida Costanera Club Lácar, Rivadavia 599 Disco Jupiter, Elordi near R. Roca

San Martín de los Andes

PATAGONIA • • • • • •

•

Buenos Aires Ski, San Martín 1157 @ 429056 • Mountain Ski Shop, San Martín 861 @ 427782 Fishing and boating equipment • Sidy Pesca, Villegas 570 • Aquaterra, Villegas 788 @ 429036

Fax disco, Elordi 950 La Taberna, Elordi 767. Dancing Momento’s Pub, Mascardi 750 Pub Ku, Avenida San Martín 1053 Robert Pub, San Martín 1127 Teatro San José, Capitán Drury 760

I Post and telegraph •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Roca near Coronel Pérez Telephone: Telefónica de España, Drury 761 near Roca

•

U Motoring Gas station • A.C.A., Avenida Koessler 2176 @ 47332. Also sells snow chains Car rental • Avis, Avenida San Martín 998 @ 427704 fax 428500; e-mail: [email protected] • A1 Rent a Car, Ave. San Martín 866 loc. 3 @ 427997 fax 428482 • Ici Rent a Car, Villegas 590 @ 427800 • Localiza Rent a Car, Villegas 977 @ 428876

L Financial •

Banco de la Nación Argentina, Ave. Sarmiento 687 @ 427292. ATM Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén, Belgrano 999 @ 427594 Cambio Andina International, Cap. Drury 876 @ 428392

• •

M Services and facilities •

Bicycle hire: HG Rodados, Avenida San Martín 1060 • Photography: Foto Thumann, San Martín 643 @ 47485 • Laundromats: Laverap, Drury 882 Pharmacies • Farmacia Austral, Elordi 765 • Farmacia Lácar, San Martín 775 near Drury Ski hire • Austria Ski Ranch, Avenida San Martín 576 @ 427366

Key to map H T

Hospital Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 3 4 12 22 23 24 42 43 56 57 66 67 68 69 70 77

Residencial Laura Hotel del Viejo Esquiador Hotel Turismo Hotel Crismalú Hostería Cumelén Cabañas Caribou (Trabunche) Hotel de los Andes Cabañas Claro del Bosque Hostería La Masia Cabañas del Rincón Hostería La Raclette Residencial Italia Residencial Casa Alta Hotel Aspen Club Hostería Las Lengas Cabañas Ojo del Agua Cabañas del Silencio

San Martín de los Andes

82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 94 95 96 97

# Water transport

•

•

Naviera Lácar & Nonthué provides excursions on Lago Lácar. Their boat Mari Mari leaves from Ave. Costanera near General Villegas in the Parque Yapeyú. There are fewer services out of season. The ticket office is open 09:30–17:30. Information:@ 428427 fax; e-mail: [email protected] Hua Hum, by boat: The boat leaves San Martín at 09:30 and passes the

Hostería Hostal del Lago Residencial Los Pinos Cabañas del Lácar Hostería El Arbol Duende Cabañas Club Woodland Hostería Hostal del Esquiador Cabañas Catalanas Apart Hotel Rose Garden Cabañas Lelen Hostería Villa Biby Hostería El Peñon Cabañas del Chapelco Hostería del Chapelco Cabañas Vista del Lago Hostería La Posta del Cazador

4 Eating out

25 Restaurant Las Leñas 79 Restaurant La Tinaja 81 Cafetería Pancho Villa

424

93 Restaurant Piscis

5 Entertainment 2 5 8 11

Momento’s Pub Cine Amancay Robert Pub Fax Disco

7 Tour operators and car rental 6 Grupo Tres de Turismo 80 El Refugio Tours

0 Services 7 $

Buenos Aires Ski Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén 76 Artesanías Arauz 98 Navegación Lago Lácar

NEUQUÉN To Lago Nontuhé and Paso Hua Hum (Chile)

To Junín de los Andes and Neuquén

ah

ull

a

CURRUHUINCA 48

oy

oP

oc

234

Arr

RAMAYÓN 3 1

2 MASCARDI 7 8

6

5

4

24

GRAL . ROCA

Plaza Sarmiento ELORDI

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

12

PERITO MORENO

RUDECINDO ROCA

S. CALDERÓN

A . FOSBERY

3 DE CABALLERÍA

SARMIENTO

11

22 23

BELGRANO $

42

25 Refer to Map "Centro 43

Plaza San Martín

66

FREY

67

56

57

68 69 70

M. MORENO 76 77 RIVADAVIA

80 CNEL . RHODE

Reserva Municipal

85 86

81

79

83

82

84

H

87 88 89 90

91

CNEL . DIAZ 93

95

T

92

96 94 234

JUEZ DEL VALLE

To Cerro Chapelco and Villa La Angostura

CNEL . PÉREZ

G. OBEID

GRAL VILLEGAS

ROSAS

ALMTE BROWN

CAP. DRURY

97

N

O IN GRAEFF

A .C

M 98

.A M

S CO

TA

NE

RA

Lago Lacar

425

San Martín de los Andes

PATAGONIA C Accommodation in San Martín de Los Andes

As well as normal hotels, cabin-style accommodation known as “cabañas” is available in San Martín de los Andes. These cabins are built to accommodate from four to six persons, and have cooking facilities. They are quite a bargain if you have a family or are traveling with several people. Prices are given for the prime skiing season and the rest of the year. The prime skiing season is from July–August and the low season is from September–June Apart Hotels *** *** ***

La Bora, Ave. San Martín near Ramayón ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Fax 427930 @ Rincón de los Andes, Juez del Valle 611 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ Rose Garden, Cnel Díaz 1156 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @

428171/4 428593 fax 428295 fax

$A/C 4 $C/D 2 $C/D 4

Hotels

Chatelet, Villegas 650 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ Fax 428296; Email: www.7lagos.com @ 428294 $D/E *** Caupolicán, San Martín 969 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 427900 fax $D/E *** del Viejo Esquiador, San Martín 1242 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 427690 fax $D/E *** Le Village, Roca 816 near Capitán Drury ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 427698 fax $C/D ** Aspen Club, Pérez 1127 AEFGJLPSUV Fax 428425 @ 427475 $E/F ** Chapelco Ski, Belgrano 869 AEFGJLPUV @ 427480fax $E/F ** Crismalu, R. Roca 975 AEFGJLPSUV E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 427283 fax $F/G ** Intermonti, General Villegas 717 LP @ 427454 $G/H ** Nevegal, San Martín 817 AEFGJLPSUV @ 427320/484 $E ** Rosa de los Viajes, San Martín 821 E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 427320/8425 fax ** Tunqueley, General Roca near Belgrano Fax 428529; E-mail: www.7lagos.com AEFGJLPSUV @ 428125 $E * Colonos del Sur, Rivadavia 686 AELPSV Fax 427106; E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 427224 $F/G * Turismo, Mascardi 517 AELPV Fax 427692; E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 427592 • Patagonia Plaza, Ave. San Martín near Rivadavia E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 422280

****

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 3 2

2 2

Hosterías *** *** *** *** *** *** ***

Hostal del Esquiador, Colonel Rhode 975 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ El Arbol Duende, Rivadavia 1145 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ El Peñon, Calderón 255 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ La Cheminee, General Roca near Moreno Fax 428087 E-mail: www.7lagos.com ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ La Masia, Obeid 811 near Capitán Drury ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ La Posta del Cazador, San Martín 175 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ La Raclette, Teniente Coronel Pérez 1170 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @

San Martín de los Andes

426

427674 fax

$D/E 2

428401 fax 427941/42

$D/E 2

427617

$C/D 2

427688 fax

$D/E 2

427501 fax

$E/F

2

427664 fax

$E/F

2

NEUQUÉN Accommodation in San Martín de los Andes — continued *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** * * * * *

Las Lengas, Teniente Coronel Pérez 1175 Fax 427938; E-mail: www.7lagos.com ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Las Walkirias, Villegas 815 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 428999; E-mail: www.7lagos.com Tisú, San Martín 771 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Anay, Capitán Drury 841 AEFGJLPSUV E-mail: www.7lagos.com del Chapelco, Alte Brown 297 near J del Valle Fax 427097; E-mail: www.7lagos.com AEFGJLPSUV Hostal del Lago, Colonel Rhode 854 AEFGJLPSUV Nevada, Moreno 590 AEFGJLPSUV Villa Biby, Colonel Díaz 1186 AEFGJLPSUV Fax 427206 Cumelén, Elordi 931 AELPSV El Pinito, Meliquina 412 AELPSV Hueney Ruca, Obeid near Teniente Coronel Pérez AELPV Las Lucarnas, Pérez 632 AELPSV Fax 427985 Peumayen, San Martín 851 AELPSV

Residenciales &

A A A A

Casa Alta, G. Obeid 659 Italia, Teniente Coronel Pérez 977 Laura, Mascardi 632 Los Pinos, Alte. Brown 420

LP LP ELPS

@

427659

$D/E 2

@ @

428307 427231

$C/D 2 $D/G 2

@

427514 fax

$F/G 2

@ @ @

427610 427598 427301

$E/F 2 $F 2 $F/G 2

@ @ @ @

427252 427304 fax 426522 427499 fax

$E/F $G $G/H $D/E

2 2 2 2

@ @

427085 427232 fax

$E/F $E/F

2 2

@ @ @ @

427456 427590 427271 427207

$G 2 $G/H 2 $G/H 2

Cabañas The prices indicated are for groups. The size of the group is given after the price. *** *** *** *** *** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * * *

Arco Iris, Los Cipreses 1850 ABCDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 428533 fax Claro del Bosque, Belgrano 1083 ABCDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 427451 Club Woodland, Rivadavia 1173 ABCDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 428384/449 Humo Azul, R. Roca 618 ABCDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: www.7lagos.com @ 427699 Le Village, General Roca 816 near Drury Fax 427120 ABCDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 427698 fax Ojo del Agua, Teniente Coronel Pérez 1179 near Almirante Brown ABCDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 427302 fax Trabunche, Obeid 934 ABCDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 428352 fax Catalanas, Almte Brown 351 @ 427161 del Abuelo, Los Cipreses 1541 AEFGJLPUV @ 427539 del Bosque, P Moreno 1450 AEFGJLPUV @ 427607 del Lácar, Cnel Rhode 1144 AEFGJLPUV @ 427679 del Lago, Ave. Costanera 850 AEFGJLPUV Fax 427899 del Rincón, Teniente Coronel Pérez 1144 AEFGJLPUV Vista del Lago, Coronel Díaz 1125 AEFGJLPUV de la Isla, Los Cipreses 1700 AELPV del Chapelco, Brown 207 near Coronel Díaz AELPV del Silencio, Rivadavia 1244 near Brown AELPV Lelena, Cnel. Díaz 1162

427

@ @ @ @ @ @ @

427899 427144 427542 427821 427610 427915 428274

$D

2

$D

4

$B/C

4

$C/E

4

$A/D 4 $B/C $B/D

6 6

$E $B/D

6 4

$B/D $C/D $D/E $D/E $D/F $C/D

5 7 6 4 6 7

San Martín de los Andes

PATAGONIA Accommodation in San Martín de los Andes — continued Accommodation in Suburb El Oásis *** ** ***

Apart Hotel Ruca Leufu, RN 234 2 km ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Turn at Koessler block 2500 Hostería Parque Los Andes, RN 234 AEFGJLPUV Cabañas El Oásis, Quinta 5 lote 16 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

@

427367

@ @

428211 428235 fax

$C/D 6 $F 2 $C/D 2

Accommodation in Altos de San Martín *****

**

Hotel Sol de los Andes, RP 19 Overlooks the town.

ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$STUVXYZ

Cabañas Altos del Ocho, Pirén 167

AEFGJLPUV

@ @

427460/68 428277 fax

$C/D 2 $E 5

Accommodation in Villa Lago Loglog Villa Lago Loglog is located five kilometer north of San Martín. ***

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY

Cabañas Lago Loglog,

Plaza Sarmiento

GRAL . VILLEGAS

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

P. MORENO

SARMIENTO

AVE.GRAL . ROCA

northern shores of Cerro Bandurias and Península Yuco, and Isla Santa Teresita. The trip continues through La Angostura channel (also called “La Unión”) into Lago Nonthué, and

10 9

ELORDI

•

18

N

13 14

19

21

17 20

16

15 BELGRANO

30

34

31

35

37

28 29 40 26 32 39 27 CAP. DRURY

33

36

E

38

$

41

47 50

45 46 C

I

J.M. DE ROSAS

51 48 52

CNEL PEREZ D

E. FREY

$ 60

61

64 65

62 58

59 63 M. MORENO 71

73 75

4

stops ashore briefly to visit the Cha-Chin falls. There is a stop for lunch at Hua Hum; it is only 2 km to the Chilean border from here. From Hua Hum you can continue into Chile. See also the companion volume Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island “Region IX de la Araucania”. The return trip after lunch includes a short visit to the mineral springs at Quila-Quina. You arrive back in San Martín at about 17:30. Take plenty of film with you. Fares: $35.00; National park admission separate Ferry services to Quila-Quina. There are six services daily first boat leaves at 10:30 and passes Catritre and Cerro Abanico beaches before docking at Puerto Quila-Quina. Here you can visit the mineral springs and nearby rock paintings. There is also a tearoom here, the Casa de Te El Establo. Last return trip to San Martín is 20:30. Return fare: $10.00

Artesanías • Artesanías Neuquinos, J.M. de Rosas 770 • Artesanías Arauz, M. Moreno 1197

74 72 RIVADAVIA 78

San Martín de los Andes

$D/E

San Martín de los Andes is situated in an area where many Mapuche villages produce authentic mapuche fabrics; because the area receives a fair amount of rain it abounds in edible mushrooms; the locals produce sweets especially alfajores and pates.

53

49

426460 fax

Y Shopping

55 54

44

Centro Civico

@

428

NEUQUÉN R Air services from San Martín de los Andes

Chapelco airport is some 20 km outside town on RN 234. The airport can only handle small planes. • Austral, Avenida San Martín 890 near Belgrano @ 427003 • L.A.D.E., General Roca 636 @ 427672 • TANSE, Belgrano 760 @ 427872 fax ° Buenos Aires (3 hrs); 4–5 weekly ° Cutral Co via Zapala; 1 weekly ° Comodoro Rivadavia via Bariloche, El Bolsón, El Maitén, Esquel, and José de San Martín; 1 weekly

p Sightseeing

Ceramics • Cerámicas del Bosque Encantado, Los Cipreses 2111 Chocolates • Mamusia, San Martín 601 near M Moreno • Fenoglio, San Martín 836

•

•

a Sport Skiing • Cerro Chapelco. Facilities include 32 chair-lifts and ski-tows. The slopes and snow conditions here are excellent • Club Andino San Martín, Capitán Drury block 800 near Villegas

Key to map A C D E I

Iglesia San José Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica de España Secretaría Municipal de Turismo

3 Accommodation

18 27 28 35 36 37 40 41 44 48 50 53 58 64 71 72

Hotel Caupolicán Hotel Le Village Hotel Tunqueley Hostería Peumayen Hotel Nevegal Hotel Chapelco Ski Hotel Rosa de los Viajes Hostería Las Walkirias Hostería Las Lucarnas Hostería Tisú Hostería Anay Residencial Villa Lago Hostería Nevada Hotel Chatelet Hostería La Cheminee Hotel Colonos del Sur

4 Eating out

26 Restaurant Radal

Museo Regional Municipal San Martín de los Andes (San Martin de los Andes Regional Municipal Museum), Pasaje Juan Manuel de Rosas. Mineralogy, history and Mapuche artefacts Instituto Patagonico de Sciencias Naturales, Coronel Rhode 1351. Insects, plants, birds, rocks and paleontology from the area are represented

s Excursions Tour operators • Badino Turismo, e-mail: [email protected]; organizes

33 49 51 52 54 55 63 65 74

Confitería Peperone Restaurant La Mendieta Restaurant Paprika Restaurant El Ciervo Restaurant Mi Viejo Pepe Restaurant Las Catalinas Restaurant La Tasca Restaurant El Derby Restaurant La Fondue de Betty 75 Restaurant Piscis 78 Restaurant Club Lácar

19 21 29 31

9 Sights

45 Museo Regional

0 Services

5 Entertainment

13 32 34 38 39

6 Airline offices

46 47 59

9 Pub Ku 14 La Taberna 15 T.A.N.S.E. 20 L.A.D.E. 30 Austral

7 Tour operators and car rental

Pucará Viajes y Turismo Localiza Rent a Car Tunqueley Turismo Chapelco Turismo

60 61 62 73

Farmacia Austral Fenoglio Mountain Ski Shop Laverap Cambio Andina International Artesanías Neuquinos Farmacia Lácar Intendencia Parque Nacional Lanín Banco de la Nación Foto Thuman Mamusia Austria Sky Ranch

10 Avis 16 Ruca Huelun 17 Tiempo Patagonico

429

San Martín de los Andes

PATAGONIA leave at 08:30. It is also a good trip to do by car, especially if you want to explore side routes. Soon after you pass through Junín de los Andes, the cone of Volcán Lanín looms on the left. This volcano is 3776 m high and usually snow-covered all year round. (If you are bound for Chile the turn-off to Paso Tromen is on the left, about five minutes’ drive out of Junín de los Andes. It is called RP 60 but is little more than a dirt track.) The valley flattens out after a while, but you can see the snow-capped cordillera in the background. This mountain range forms a natural border between Argentina and Chile. The flatter land here is suited to grazing, and this is rich cattle country. At La Rinconada the road meets RN 40 and follows it north. At this point it is still 173 km to Zapala. You then begin to climb the Cuesta La Rinconada, a steep winding road which has been gouged out of the mountain-side. Once you have negotiated the small pass at the top there are sweeping views of the valley to the left—try to get a seat on the left-hand side of the bus if you can. The land up here is almost bare; you can see cows and horses grazing, but about all that grow are low shrubs and isolated clumps of grass. After this the road deteriorates, and ends up on a plain, or meseta. A little further on, an Isaura service station marks the junction with RP 24. It is a 20 km trip to Las Coloradas on this road, and you can continue through Las Coloradas to Bajada Rahue, and Aluminé, via part of Parque Nacional Laguna Blanca. At Fortín Mayo the main San Martín–Zapala road meets RP 46. The people in this region are still predominately Indian. After the junction with RP 46, RN 40 becomes a dirt road. This area is quite remote: at Aguada Florencia the only building is the A.C.A. service station and cafeteria. The hills are bare, and even though the road is sealed after Aguada Florencia, it is full of pot-holes: be prepared for a bumpy ride. The turn-off to Parque Nacional Laguna Blanca is 10 km before Zapala, and from here on the road

vacation trips in the cordillera staying in cabins • El Claro, Villegas 977 @ 428876 fax; email: [email protected]; conventional excursions in the area and Pucón, Chile on Thursdays, a two-day trip. English spoken • El Refugio Tours, San Martín 436 • Chapelco Turismo, Avenida San Martín 876 @ 427550 • Grupo Tres de Turismo, San Martín 1176 @ 428453 fax 428041 • Ici Viajes, Villegas 590 @ 427800; trekking, fishing, rafting, 4WD excursions • Jorge Cardillo, tour guide, Gral. Roca 626 @ 428372; e-mail:www.7lagos. com/smandes • Klap Alejandro, tour guide, Elordi 114 @ 427564; e-mail: aleklap @smandes.com.ar • Luz de Luna, Cnel Diaz 1195 @ 428373 fax; horse-riding, fishing trips, trekking • Navegación Lago Lácar @ 427682. Book at the pier or at the bus terminal • Pehuenia de Turismo, Juez del Valle 611 @ 427862 fax 427121 • Pucará Viajes y Turismo, San Martín 943 @ 427218; rafting • Tiempo Patagonico, Avenida San Martín 950 @ 427113 fax 427114 Excursions • Parque Nacional Lanín: This national park, is in a spectacular setting. It is situated in high country, and extends to the summit of Volcán Lanín on the border with Chile. This volcano is snow-covered all year round and has numerous thermal springs. The park contains many lakes and rivers providing excellent trout fishing and canoeing. There is hiking and mountaineering on Volcán Lanín. The plentiful wildlife includes boars, deer, pudu, pumas, and wildcats • Climbing Cerro Malho 2000 m: This can be classified as an easy climb or a hard walk. The starting point is the village of Hua Hum. The climb takes 9 hrs; cost of mountain guide: $50.00. Views are superb • Zapala: The four-hour trip is very scenic and highly recommended. Transportes Ko Ko and Empresa El Petróleo both provide services which San Martín de los Andes

430

NEUQUÉN S Buses from San Martín de los Andes

The bus terminal is on the corner of General Villegas 251 near Juez del Valle; @ 4427044. Bus companies • Empresa Igi Llaimi @ 4427750 and Empresa San Martín @ 427294 operate 5 services weekly to and from Chile. Destinations include Temuco, Pucón, and Villarrica. These buses start operating in mid-November and finish in May. • Albus @ 428100 ° Villa Traful (S13.00; 3 hrs) 1 daily • Andesmar @ 427750 • Buses Pirehueico @ 428799; to Chile • Centenario S.R.L. @ 428799 ° Neuquén ($28.00; 7 hrs) 2 daily • El Petróleo @ 427750 ° Aluminé ($11.00; 21 2 hrs); 1 weekly ° Junín de los Andes ($3.00; 3 4 hour); 3 daily ° Neuquén ($28.00; 7 hrs); 3 daily ° Zapala ($17.60; 4 hrs); 2 daily • Empresa San Martín @ 428508; to Chile ° Junín de los Andes ($3.00; 1 2 hour); 2–3 daily ° Lago Huechulafquen ($9.00); 1 daily ° Lago Lolog ($2.00); 3 daily • Igi Llaima @ 427750; to Chile • La Estrella @ 427750 • La Puntual @ 428508 • La Unión del Sud @ 428581 ° Neuquén ($28.00; 7 hrs); 3 daily ° Villa La Angostura • Pampa @ 427750 • T.A.C. @ 428788 • T.A. Chevallier @ 427422 • TUS @ 427750 • Transportes Ko Ko @ 427422 ° Lago Lolog ($2.00); 3 daily • Vía Bariloche @ 427750 Long-distance services • •

Destination Bariloche Buenos Aires

Fare $22.00 $90.00

Services 5 daily 2–3 daily

• • • • • • • • • •

Córdoba $90.00 Mar del Plata Mendoza Pucón (Chile) Río Gallegos Rosario San Juan Santa Rosa Temuco (Chile) $25.00 Villa La Angostura $10.00

Wednesday 1 daily 1 daily 6 weekly

•

Villarrica (Chile)

4 weekly

Mon., Thurs. 6 weekly 4 weekly

Duration Company 51 2 hrs Ko-Ko, TUS, Vía Bariloche 23 hrs La Puntual, T.A. Chevallier, Centenario, T.A.C., Vía Bariloche 25 hrs TUS La Unión del Sud Andesmar, T.A.C. Igi Llaima T.A.C. T.A. Chevallier T.I.C.S.A T.A. Chevallier, Pampa 8 hrs San Martín, Igi Llaima 3 hrs Andesmar, Centenario, La Unión del Sud, Transportes Ko-ko Igi Llaima

431

San Martín de los Andes

PATAGONIA

•

improves. There is usually a strong wind blowing over the meseta here, and the Andes, which were receding from view up to now, begin to loom larger again. See also Zapala on page 439 Bariloche: Local buses take the longer, partially paved road via Junín de los Andes because it is open all year round. But the most scenic route is RN 234, via Villa La Angostura. The tour buses take 10 hours to do the 200 km journey, and en route pass Lago Meliquina, Lago Falkner, Lago Traful, and Lago Espejo, where RN 234 joins RN 231 coming from Chile. From here on the road skirts the shores of beautiful Lago Nahuel Huapí. It is worth spending some time at Villa La Angostura to explore the surrounding countryside. Local

•

•

• •

buses operate services from here to Chile and Bariloche. See also Villa La Angostura below Rafting Río Hua Hum. This trip takes you into Chile, so a passport is required. Rafting guides make two trips per day: 11:00 and 15:00. Take an early ferry from San Martín. The rafting trip takes 3 hrs; cost $35.00 Rafting Río Meliquina. This trip starts from Lago Meliquina and is either a half day excursion ($45.00) or a full day excursion. The starting point is 50 km south of San Martín Paso Puyehue on the border, to Osorno and Puerto Montt To Pucón and Villarrica in Chile via Paso Tromen (or Paso de Mamuil Malal) and Junín de los Andes; this is a two to three day trip

VILLA LA ANGOSTURA

Villa La Angostura Population: 4000 Postal code: 8407 @ area code: (02944) Altitude: 845 m Distances • From Neuquén: 384 km west on RN 22, RN 237 and RN 231 • From Bariloche: 80 km north-west on RN 231

V

illa La Angostura is a small and picturesque tourist resort on the northern shore of Lago Nahuel Huapí. Villa La Angostura is the beginning of the scenic Seven Lakes route to San Martín de los Andes and the equally scenic drive to Chile. Excellent tourist facilities spread beyond the nucleus of the town center towards Lago Correntoso and Puerto Manzano, and nearby is the skiing area of Cerro Bayo. Activities include fishing, and hiking excursions to the Siete Lagos region.

B Tourist information •

• • • •

D Camping

• •

Secretaría de Turismo y Cultura, Ave. Siete Lagos 26 @ 494124 fax Bosques y Parques Provinciales, O. de Nevares @ 494157 Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, Nahuel Huapi @ 494152 Asociación de Guías, El Michay @ 494058 Cerro Bayo S.A. Avenida Corrientes 456 @ 494310 fax

Villa La Angostura

El Cruce, RN 231 @ 494145 Municipal Lago Correntoso

E Eating out Eating out in El Cruce Restaurants • Bianchi, Las Retamas near Topa Topa • Cahuil Pizza, Avenida Arrayanes 66 • Dixi, Avenida Arrayanes 176

432

NEUQUÉN C Accommodation in Villa La Angostura

It is possible to stay with families in private houses—check the tourist office for details. Villa La Angostura has two sections: El Cruce the main part of town and La Villa on the shores of Lago Nahuel Huapi. Accommodation in El Cruce Cabañas De Alicia, Web site: www.bungalowsdealicia.com.ar ** La Posta del Cumelen, AEFGJLPUV E-mail: [email protected] * de la Villa, Calafate AELPV * Rancho Bayo, RN 231 near Araucanos AELPV • Akermann, Río Litrán, Sector Lomas del Correntoso E-mail: [email protected] • El Viejo Marquez, Chos Malal near Pehuenes

***

@

494474

@ @

494727 fax 494481

@

494825

@

494717

Hosterías ** Las Piedritas, Huemul near RN 231 AEFGJLPUV

@

494222

$F/G 2

Verena’s Haus, Los Taiques AEFGJLPUV E:mail: [email protected]

@

494467

$E/F

2

@ @

494269 494110

$G

2

494217 494224 fax 494193

$D/E 2 $E/F 2 $G 2

**

$E

4

Residenciales

A Don Pedro, Cerro Belvedere near Los Maquis ELPS • Río Bonito, Topa Topa

Accommodation in La Villa Apart Hotel Los Tres Mosqueteros, Ave. Nahuel Huapi 2161 AELPV @ * Hotel La Angostura, Ave. Nahuel Huapi 1911 AELPSV @ A Residencial La Granja, Nahuel Huapi LP @ *

Cabañas *** **

Bahía Brava, Ave. Nahuel Huapi La Ruma, Boulevard Quetrihué

Accommodation in Bahía Las Balsas Hosterías *** ***

Calihue, Las Balsas,

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY AEFGJLPUV

@ @

494229/135 494556

$D $D/E

4 4

ACDEFGJKLPTUVY ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY

@ @

494394 494308

$C $B

2 2

@

494424

$F

2

@ @

494086 494737

$G

2

@ @

494450 fax 494573 fax

$D/E 2 $E/F 2

@

494377

$E/F

@

494484/361

$C/D 4

Accommodation on RN 231 to Lago Correntoso

Hotel Correntoso, Ave. Siete Lagos KM 3 AELPSV Cabañas La Villa del Montanés, Ave. Siete Lagos KM 1.7 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY A Residencial Nahuel, RN 231 near Huilliches ELPS

*

***

Hosterías *** **

La Posada, KM 1.5 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Las Nieves, Ave. Siete Lagos KM 1 AEFGJLPUV

Accommodation on Lago Correntoso *** **

Hostería Cuyen Co ACDEFGJKLPTUVY Apart Hotel Lomas del Correntoso, Lumilla 21 AEFGJLPUV

433

2

Villa La Angostura

PATAGONIA Accommodation in Villa La Angostura — continued Cabañas ** **

Lihuén, RN 231 KM 4 Fax 494479/801 Unelén, Villa Correntoso

Accommodation on Lago Espejo ***

Hostería Mountain Place,

AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPUV

@ @

494564 494386

$E/F $C

2 4

ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY

@

494583

$D

2

$E

4

Accommodation Puerto Manzano

Cabañas Recodo del Bonito, AELPV @ 494479 fax Apart Hotel Bahía Manzano, Ave. Arrayanes ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ Fax 494344 @ 494307/043 @ 494904 fax • Hostería Dos Bahías, Puerto Manzano ACDKPT @ 494729 • Hostería Los Duendes, Puerto Manzano

*

****

Accommodation close to skiing area

• Cabañas Arc en Ciel, 1 km to Cerro Bayo AFHV

• El Esquiador, Las Retamas 146 • El Montanés, Avenida Arrayanes 45 • Il Postino, Las Fucsias 113 • La Recova, Avenida Arrayanes 51 • Lado Sur, Los Taiques • Las Varas, Avenida Arrayanes 235 • Le Pifie, Las Frambuesas 354 • Nevada, Avenida Arrayanes • Siete Lagos, Avenida Arrayanes 130 • Verena’s Haus, Los Taiques. Cafeterías • La Casita de Oma, Cerro Inacayal 303 • Rincón Suizo, Avenida Arrayanes 44 Eating out in La Villa • Restaurant El Messidor, Neuquén • Cafetería Los Tres Mosqueteros, Villa La Angostura Eating out along RN 231 to Lago Correntoso • Restaurant Aire Libre, Avenida Siete Lagos • Restaurant Las Nieves • Restaurant Nahuel • Restaurant Pizza Franca • Cafetería Waldhaus Eating out in Puerto Manzano • Cafetería Arrayanes, RN 231 KM 9 East Eating out on Cerro Bayo • Chaltén • Deck 18 • El Tronador, 1500 m

Villa La Angostura

@

494576

$D/E 2

$D/E 2

n Entertainment

• • • •

Bowling La Taberna, Las Retamas 418 Disco Mimos, Las Retamas 146 Disco La Carpintería, Las Frambuesas 59 Pub Malgari, Avenida Arrayanes 59

I Post and telegraph

• •

Correo Argentino, Avenida Siete Lagos 26 Telefónica de Argentina, O. de Nevares 56

L Financial

•

Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén, Avenida Arrayanes 172 @ 494180/433

M Services

• • • •

Bicycle hire: Angostura Bike, Las Fucsias 237 Fishing and camping gear: Banana Fly Shop, Avenida Arrayanes 282 Horse riding: El Establo, RN 231 KM 2.5 Ski hire: Class, Ave. Arrayanes 173 @ 494411

U Motoring Car rental • Angostura Turismo, Avenida Arrayanes 235 @ 494405 • Localiza, Belvedere 66 @ 494223 fax • Puerto Car, Los Notros @ 494551 Service station • A.C.A., Avenida Arrayanes @ 494168

434

NEUQUÉN S Buses from Villa La Angostura

The bus terminal is in Avenida Siete Lagos 26 @ 494095. • Algarrobal, Ave. Arrayanes 152 @ 494360 ° Bariloche ($6.50, 2 hrs); 2 daily ° Cerro El Bayo; 3 daily • Andesmar ° Neuquén ($30.00) ° San Martín de los Andes ($11.00; 3 hrs); 3 weekly • Centenario S.R.L. @ 494124 Villa La Angostura ° San Martín de los Andes ($11.00; 3 hrs) • El Petróleo @ 494322, Los Taiques Villa La Angostura ° Junín de los Andes via San Martín de los Andes; 3 weekly • Ko–Ko @ 494322; Los Taiques, Villa La Angostura ° San Martín de los Andes ($11.00; 3 hrs); 1 daily in Jan–Feb. Scenic trip • La Unión del Sud @ 494322, Los Taiques Villa La Angostura ° Junín de los Andes (31 2 hrs, $14.00) via San Martín de los Andes ($11.00; 3 hrs); 3 weekly ° Neuquén ($30.00; 12 hrs); 3 weekly • TAS Choapa, Ave. Arrayanes 152 @ 494572 ° Osorno (Chile); 4 hrs ° Puerto Montt (Chile); 6 hrs Bus Norte and T.A. Mercedes also run buses to Chile; altogether there are 6 services daily to various destinations in southern Chile.

# Water transport

tween the top of the run and its base is 600 m; the inclination of slopes is 35°. The length of the ski runs is 1800 m; longest descent is 650 m. The skiing area is 80 ha (198 acres).

There are excursion boats on Lago Nahuel Huapí.

a Sport Golf • Cumelén Country Club, @ 43824507/4352968 Skiing The ski area of Cerro Bayo, altitude 1780 m, is located 13 km north-east of Villa La Angostura, inside the Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapí. Six km off the main road is RN 231, which leads to Cerro Bayo via the shores of Lago Nahuel Huapí. Cerro Bayo’s easterly outlook makes skiing conditions perfect from June to September, the official skiing season. During that period the snow is dry and compact, but varies between powder and wet. The skiing slopes practically finish up on Lago Nahuel Huapí. They are suitable for intermediate to advanced skiers. There is a refugio at the base (1050 m), with a cafeteria, ski hire, repairs, cloak room, and a ski school run by the Ski Club Villa La Angostura.

There are two double chair lifts, six T–bars and two baby lifts carrying 4500 skiers per hour. Daily lift tickets are $20–$25.00; ski hire $15.00 per day. From the base at 1050 m to 1492 m is the area for beginners and intermediate skiers length 1350 m; advanced skiers can go up to 1600 m. The café at the top (1500 m) offers light meals. There are regular shuttle bus services between Villa La Angostura and the ski base.

p Sightseeing

•

Museo Histórico Regional (Regional History Museum), Nahuel Huapi

s Excursions Tour operators • Angostura Turismo, Avenida Arrayanes @ 494405 • Sur del Neuquén, Los Notros near Ave. Arrayanes @ 494551/4663

The snow cover is 10 cm at the base and 80 cm at 1500 m. The height difference be435

Villa La Angostura

PATAGONIA Laguna Verde

QUE

T R IH

UE

VILLA LA ANGOSTURA PUERTO

B O U LE

VIR

GE

N

L DE

AA

SU

NC

VARD

IÓN

NEU

QUÉ

N

N

PIL

MA

YQ

UE

N

BOUL EVAR

C. PI LQ UE N

D QU E T R IH UE NAH UEL HUA PI

L ago Nahuel Huapi

L ago Nahuel Huapi

Excursions • Parque Nacional Los Arrayanes : Located on Península Quetrihue which juts out into Lago Nahuel Huapi for 12 km. It can be reached on foot or is part of a cruise on the lake. This national park was created to preserve the unique arrayanes tree which is only found here at the southern tip of the peninsula and on the northern part of Isla Victoria in Lago Nahuel Huapi. The tree has a slow stunted growth and only reaches a height of 20 m • Lago Nahuel Huapi cruises: These boat cruises include also Parque

Villa La Angostura

Key to maps A C D E I $ T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Post Office & Telex Telephone Tourist information Money exchange Bus terminals

3 Accommodation 4 Eating out 0 Cruise ships

436

NEUQUÉN To Chile and San Martín de los Andes

S SI ET LA

o Las

SA

MBU

AYA

ESA

NE

S

S

U IS

To Neuquén and Bariloche

FRA

RR

r it a s

LAS

. LO

P ie d

CERRO INCAYAL

CERRO BELVEDERE

NAHUEL HUAPI

LO S M A Q

AVE

RUCACHAROI

S

I

Arroy

GO D

E A

C S IA S

LOS NOTROS

E

E

LAS FU

AS

MUL

LO C

LAS MUTISIAS

TOPA TOPA

E.

N

E TA M

HUE

AV

LAS R

LOS TAIQUES

EL MICHAY To La Villa EL CALAFATE

LAS FRUTILLAS

VILLA LA ANGOSTURA CENTRO

•

LAS MOSQUETAS

Nacional Los Arrayanes on Península Quetrihue and Isla Victoria Lago Correntoso and Lago Espejo. Taking RN 231 west towards the Chilean border, Lago Correntoso is located 5 km west of town. This is one of the most scenic lakes in the Seven Lakes region. The Río Correntoso is the outlet of the lake into Lago Nahuel Huapi and is only a few hundred metres long. This short river is frequented by fishermen. A bridge spans the river and as the road winds up towards the pass the vistas are

•

437

superb. Three kilometers past the bridge the road forks and you descend to Lago Espejo which is equally beautiful. This excursion is an easy hiking trip — 14 km one way; one leg can be made by local bus. Tour operators organize day trips from Villa la Angostura to most of the lakes in the Siete Lagos region, including San Martín de los Andes. It is also possible to use regional bus services — refer to bus schedules above Lago Pueyhué in Chile: Tour operators organize day trips to Chile. These

Villa La Angostura

PATAGONIA Puyehué before continuing on to either Osorno or Refugio Antillanca on Volcán Casablanca. The border pass is called Paso Cardenal Samore by Argentina and Paso Puyehué by the Chileans

scenic trips first go through Parque Nacional Arrayanes on the Argentine side and through the Parque Nacional Puyehué on the Chilean side. At the Chilean border control post you have superb views of Volcán Puyehué. Organized bus tours usually make a stop at Termas de

VILLA TRAFUL

Villa Traful Postal code: 8403 @ area code: (02944) Distances From Neuquén: 402 km west • From Bariloche: 100 north on RN 237 then RP 67 •

L

ocated on the southern shore of picturesque Lago Traful, Villa Traful is very popular with holiday-makers in summer.

E Eating out

The first settlers arrived here in the late 1800s. There are restrictions imposed on developments as the town is completely inside Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi.

• • • • •

B Tourist information •

Oficina de Informes Turísticos, @ 479020

M Services

•

C Accommodation

El Ciervo Mini Shopping

S Buses

Hostería Rincón del Pescador, RP 65 AEFGJLPUV @ 479027/8 fax $E 2 * Hostería Villa Traful, RP 65 ABELPSTV; also cabins @ 479005/6 fax $H 1 * Cabañas Aiken Traful, RP 65 AELPV @ 479026 $E 4; also camping * Cabañas Walnor, RP 65 AELPV @ 479023; also camping • Cabañas Vulcanche @ 479061; also camping Accommodation outside Villa Traful ** Hostería La Gruta de Las Virgenes, RN 237 KM 300 AEFGJLPUV @ 420449 fax 422800 $F for 4 • Estancia Río Traful; e-mail: [email protected] **

Villa Traful

Restaurant Rincón del Pescador, Hostería Rincón del Pescador, Villa Traful. Regional cuisine Restaurant Le Muguet, RP 65 Restaurant Ñancu Lahuen Restaurant Sol Americano Restaurant Vulcanche

•

Transporte Arrayanes, Empresa Setur, Empresa Albus ° Bariloche ($10.00, 21 2 hrs) 1 daily ° San Martín de los Andes ($14.00; 3 hrs); 1 daily. Scenic trip ° Villa La Angostura ($8.00; 11 2 hrs); 2 daily

s Excursions

•

•

438

Lake and fishing excursions are organized by Hostería Rincón del Pescador, Hostería Villa Traful, Cabañas Walnor; also by Raúl Quellín and Oswald Brendermann Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapí park with its numerous lakes is recommended for hiking. You can camp anywhere in the park

NEUQUÉN

ZAPALA

Zapala Population: 32 000 Postal code: 8340 @ area code: (02942) Altitude: 1012 m Distance from Neuquén: 185 km west on RN 22

Z

apala was founded in 1913, and is located on a high plateau within easy reach of the western Andes in the center of the province. It is an important road junction: here RN 40, which runs north–south, intersects with RN 22, which runs east–west. Much industry has been established here in recent years. Zapala has an excellent natural history museum and a ceramics school. For tourists it is the starting point for trips to the snow-fields and the Parque Nacional Laguna Blanca. It is also possible to visit the Indian reserves in the area. The main shopping street is San Martín. Also included here is the little village of Las Lajas, primarily because of the extensive cave system found nearby. See Excursions below.

Restaurants • C.I.R.S.E., Italia 139 • Colonial, Ave. Roca 261 • Hue Melen, Brown 929 • Huincul, Roca 315. Parrilla • La Barra, Zeballos 760 • La Zingarella, B Houssay and Paraguay • Las Familias, Ejercito Argentino 455 • MacMazzi, Trannack near L. Monti Cafeterías • Café Sur, Avellaneda • El Chancho Rengo, Etcheluz near San Martín • El Terminal, Uriburu near Etcheluz. Argentine cuisine; open 24 hours Eating out outside Zapala • Restaurant A.C.A., RN 22, 3 km from the town center on the Neuquén side

B Tourist information •

Oficina Municipal de Turismo, Avenida San Martín, between Avenida Chaneton and Mayor Torres, on the center strip @ 421938. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–13:00 and 17:00–20:00

C Accommodation

Hotel Hue Melén, Brown 929 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 4222414/422407 fax $F 2 ** Hotel Nuevo Pehuén, Etcheluz near Elena de la Vega AEFGJLPUV @ 423135 $G 2 A Residencial Coliqueo, Etcheluz 159 LP @ 421308 $H 2 A Residencial Huincul, Roca 313 LP @ 431422 $G 2 ***

n Entertainment

• • •

D Camping •

Cine Teatro Municipal Disco Arenas, 12 de Julio near RN 22 Disco Komplot, Etcheluz near San Martín

I Post and telegraph

Camping Municipal, Godoy 702. Capacity 20 tents on 1 ha A. No charge

•

E Eating out

•

Pizzerías • Negro El 55, Ejercito Argentino 648 • Pizzería Tío Paco, Trannack near Brown • Z, Avellaneda 445

Post office: Correo Argentino, Ejercito Argentino near Etcheluz Telephone: Telefónica de Argentina, Italia 248

L Financial

•

439

Banco de la Provincia del Neuquén, Chaneton 460; major bank cards Zapala

PATAGONIA To Neuquén

9 DE

J U L IO MALVINAS ARGENTINAS 22

BOLIVIA

To Chos Malal and Mendoza

HOUS SAY

TRANNACK

URUGUAY

NAMUNCURÁ 1 B. MITRE

ESPAÑA

BELGRANO

LIBANO

GARAYTA

CHILE

CANDELARIA

3 2 PARAGUAY

MONTI

4 I

40

AVE. SAN MARTÍN

$

I

5 6

E ITALIA

C 10

8

7

9 ZEBALLOS

SO 16

NO

MA

Y

HI

UI

EG

NQ

AM

LO

LARREA

17

CHICLANA

PICUNCHES

ELORDI

15

AVE. EJERCITO ARGENTINO

OLASCOAGA

T

ETCHELUZ

CHANETON

URIBURU

PRIMERA JUNTA

TRIUNVIARTO

To Chos Malal and Copahue

12 DE JULIO

14

J.J. PASO

M. MORENO MAYOR TORRES

O

ALMTE BROWN

UCH

A

AYA C

.S

G PA

13

AVE. J.A . ROCA

IA

ELENA DE LA VEGA

PE

M

12 11

AVE. AVELLANEDA

R

A

Y TR

22

ALBERDI

N

13

To Aluminé and Primeros Pinos

ZARRATEA

LOPEZ Y PLANES

BLAS PARERA

ZAPALA

40

To Junín de los Andes and Villa La Angostura

Zapala

440

NEUQUÉN •

M Services and facilities •

Photography: Foto Luz, Avellaneda 537 Laundromat: Laverap, Uriburu block 400 near Avenida Avellaneda Ski hire: El Ciervo Rojo, Brown 342

• •

p Sightseeing

•

R Air services

The Airport is on RN40 near the junction with RP 46 @ 421879. • L.A.D.E., Uriburu 371 near M Etcheluz @ 430134 • TANSE Galería López Camelo

U Motoring

In winter the direct route from San Martín de los Andes to Neuquén may not be open. The alternative route goes via La Rinconada. • Service station: Y.P.F., corner of Avenida Avellaneda and Ejercito Argentino

Y Shopping •

•

Tour operators • Empresa de Viajes y Turismo Zapala, Coronel Vidal 462 @ 421363 Excursions • Las Lajas: 55 km north-west on RP 23. In the little mountain range of Cuchillo Curá 12 km south of town are four cave systems which have been explored by a group of interested locals. The four systems are: Caverna del Templo (1300 m) Caverna del Gendarme (1700 m), Caverna del Arenal (700 m), and Caverna de los Cabritos (80 m). All caves show traces of human

a Sport •

Fishing: There is good fishing for perch in the Río Agrio. At this point the river has lost its salinity because of the number of freshwater streams flowing into it. The best spots are between Arroyo Codihue and Bajada del Agrio

Key to map A C E I

$ T

Iglesia Municipalidad (Town hall) Telefónica de Argentina Oficina Municipal de Turismo Banco del a Provincia del Neuquén Bus terminal

3 Accommodation 1 9 13 14

Hotel Hue Melén Residencial Huincul Hotel Nuevo Pehuén Residencial Coliqueo

4 Eating out 2 5 8 10 12 17

Museo Profesor Dr Augusto Olsacher, Olascoaga 421. This is a wonderful geology museum, with a priceless collection of minerals, fossils, shells, and rocks. Its collection attracts many experts from foreign countries. Among the prize exhibits is the complete crocodile-like jaw of a species of dinosaur called the peyrosaurus, which roamed the wetlands of Argentina 80-odd million years ago. There is also a fossilized fish from the Silurian era whose scales are impregnated with copper, and part of a meteorite found in Moravia

s Excursions

Escuela de Cerámica, Luis Monti 240. The ceramics school here produces high quality ceramics, and some very skilful weaving in the Indian style Artesanías Neuquinas, Houssay. Artesanías La Colmena, Avellaneda. Artesanías

•

Shooting: Permits for hunting stag and wild boar can be obtained at Recursos Naturales, corner of Colonel Vidal and Avenida Avellaneda. A permit for the season costs $25.00

Restaurant La Zingarella Pizzería Z Restaurant C.I.R.S.E. Restaurant La Barra Restaurant Colonial Restaurant Las Familias

6 Airline offices 15 L.A.D.E.

7 Tour operators and car rental 11 Empresa de Viajes y Turismo Zapala

9 Sights 6

0 Services 3 4 7 16

441

Museo Profesor Dr Augusto Olsacher Escuela de Cerámica Foto Luz Ski hire: El Ciervo Rojo Former railroad station

Zapala

PATAGONIA S Buses from Zapala

The bus terminal is on the corner of Etcheluz and Ejercito Argentino. There is a 24–hour cafeteria here, a cloak-room, and clean toilets. The staff in the information office are very helpful. In summer buses to and from Temuco go via Paso Pino Hachado. In winter they go via Paso Puyehue. • Akivi Tours, Zapala ° Primeros Pinos; 1 daily • T.A. Chevallier @ 421481 • El Cóndor @ 421718 • El Petróleo @ 421281 ° Copahue ($11.00); 5 weekly in season ° Loncopué ($7.70; 2 hrs) - El Huecú ($22.00; 7 hrs); 4 weekly ° Neuquén ($9.00; 3 hrs) via Cutral-Có; 11 daily ° San Martín de los Andes (5 hrs, $17.60) via Junín de los Andes ($14.60; 41 2 hrs); 2 daily • La Unión del Sud @ 421363 ° Aluminé ($13.20, 21 4 hrs); 3 weekly ° El Cholar via Covunco, Bajada del Agrio, Paso del Salado, Coihueco, Churriaca, and Chos Malal ($15.40); 2 weekly ° El Huecú (7 hrs, $22.00) via Las Lajas ($2.60; 1 hour), and Loncopué - ; 4 weekly ° Lago Moquehue ($16.50; 4 hrs) via Lago Aluminé (3 hrs); 3 weekly ° Las Lajas ($2.60; 1 hour) via Covunco; 2–3 daily ° Neuquén ($9.00; 3 hrs); 6 daily ° Primeros Pinos($6.60); 2 services weekly in winter ° Tricao Malal ($18.70; 7 hrs) via Chos Malal; 1 weekly • T.A.C., TUS, TICSA, El Pampa Long-distance bus services • • • • • • • • • • •

Destination Bahía Blanca Bariloche Buenos Aires Chevallier Córdoba Malargüe Mendoza San Juan San Luis Santa Rosa Temuco (Chile) Viedma

Fare $28.80 $25.00 $65.00

Services 4 daily 3 daily 4 daily

$62.70

1 daily 5 weekly 5 Weekly 3 weekly 3 weekly 2 weekly 4 weekly 3 weekly

$45.00 $31.90 $40.00

Duration 12 hrs 12 hrs 19 hrs

TUS/TUP T.A.C. 151 2 hrs Andesmar, T.A.C. T.I.C.S.A. T.I.C.S.A. TUS/TUP 7 hrs Igi Llaima, Ruta Sur El Valle

occupation going back thousands of years. Of interest is the wildlife living in underground waterways and lakes, which has adopted well to the darkness and never comes to the surface. The caves consist of large caverns linked by tunnels which sometimes are very narrow and low. In the Caverna de los Cabritos are indigenous rock paintings. Outside the cave systems is a large lake which attracts a lot of birdlife. Another cave system is located in the Cordón de

Zapala

Company El Valle T.A.C. Centenario, El Petróleo,T.A.

•

442

Curimil some 15 km from Las Lajas. Cueva del León is at 1300 m and is 1300 m long. Of interest are two large caverns with a small underground lake. There are regular daily buses from Zapala. For further in formation contact Sr. Jorge Alcaraz of the Grupo Espeleológico Lajeño @ 54 (03942) 499155 fax Rock paintings at Portada Covunco: La Unión del Sud bus runs 1–2 services daily to Mariano Moreno 20 km north of Zapala. The site is 4–5 km

NEUQUÉN •

west of this village. Ask villagers for directions Parque Nacional Laguna Blanca: 30 km eastwards on RP 46, which passes through the southern part of the park. This park was established to protect the rare black-necked swans which live here. The area covers a vast 11 250 ha, most of which comprises volcanic flats. There is a biological research station and an observation post here, but the place is serene and undisturbed. The land further back from the lake is rather

•

•

443

dry, and the flora consists mostly of low bushes and thorny plants. Rushes grow around the perimeter of the lake. La Unión del Sud runs 3 buses weekly from Zapala Primeros Pinos: 45 km west on RP 13. This is a recently developed skiing resort. The road is sealed all the way to Primeros Pinos. See Primeros Pinos on page 421 San Martín de los Andes: See Excursions to Zapala from San Martín de los Andes on page 430

Zapala

RÍO

NEGRO RATAGONIA P Río ÍO Negro NEGRO

Plate 8 447 449 451 457 467 468 470 471 471 473 474 478 479 480 480 481 482 483 484 488 489 489 491 494 495

R

Map of Río Negro Province Bariloche BCEnJKLMNPRSTUVW#XYba Map of city center c^efghiopqs Map of city center west Map of surrounding districts Catriel ACEJKILRSUW Cerro Catedral BCEnJKMSabcs^ Choele-Choel CDEJKSUWe Cinco Saltos CEnJKS Cipolletti BCEnJKILMSUWpq El Bolsón ABCDEnJKLMRSUWYabcefp Map qs General Roca BCEnJKRSUWq Ingeniero Jacobacci CRTqt Los Menucos CE Maquinchao CEI Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi BCDebc^esv Puerto Pañuelo CES#is Río Colorado CEJKLSUW San Antonio Oeste BCDEnJKLMRSUTXefhosfv Sierra Grande BCDEISU Valcheta CE Viedma ABCDEnJKLMRSUT#VWXYef o Map pqsv Villa Regina BCEJKSUW Stopovers C

ío Negro covers 203 000 square kilometers (78 000 square miles) and the population is estimated to be around 530 000 inhabitants . It shares borders with Chubut to the south, Neuquén to the west, La Pampa to the 444

RÍO NEGRO north, and Buenos Aires Province to the north-east. In the south-east the Golfo San Matías, with its 400 km of beaches, opens onto the Atlantic Ocean. In the south-west a section shares a common border with Chile along the main chain of the Andes. The capital of Río Negro is Viedma, located some 970 km south of Buenos Aires. Geographically the province can be divided into four distinct zones. These are, from east to west: the coastal zone, the tableland, the pre-Cordillera, and the high Cordillera. Although most of the Atlantic coast consists of fine beaches, with the exception of those located near major settlements (Viedma, San Antonio Oeste, and Punta Colorada) they are not accessible. Near San Antonio Oeste the 45 km strip of white sandy beach is popular for skin-diving. The Atlantic coast from Balneario Bahía Rosas creek southward has good spots for scuba diving and spear fishing. The best time for fishing is from November to February. In the summer months beware of the schools of sharks that come south with the warm currents. The interior of the province is part of the Patagonian Plateau, a vast dry stretch of land with small salt lakes and some canyons, where the rainfall is scanty and few rivers reach the sea. But the area has not always been desert. Millions of years ago it was forested with huge araucaria-like trees. However, a sudden and violent change to the earth’s surface turned the climate of this area from subtropical to dry and caused volcanic eruptions which covered the forests. Nowadays the petrified wood found in the tablelands bears witness to the exuberant growth of the past. There are many archeological sites, mostly rock paintings in caves. Iron ore has been found near

Sierra Grande, and a pelletizing plant converts the crushed ore into concentrates which are shipped through Punta Colorada. Further to the west in the pre-cordillera is some of the most beautiful lake scenery in the world. Most of the lakes are navigable, and include Lago Nahuel Huapi, Lago Mascardi, Lago Gutiérrez. Here are some of the best-known tourist centers of Argentina, such as Bariloche and El Bolsón. In winter these are skiing centers. This is good hiking country with many refugios available to the mountaineer. There are trout and salmonoids in the rivers and lakes and fishing is permitted from November onwards. For most of the year the climate is harsh in the interior of Río Negro. In the Patagonian tableland the temperature in winter can drop as low as –20°C (0°F) and in summer soar to 40°C (106°F) near the coast. The lowest average temperature near the coast is –7°C (26°F). Precipitation is greatest in the Andean zone with up to 5000 mm annually, declining to 300 mm near the coast. The flora and fauna reflect this range of climatic conditions. The Patagonian forests in the high mountains gradually give way to savanna and then to a vegetation adapted to more desert-like conditions. Consequently the animal life also varies. The ostriches living in the mountain areas in the north-east are bigger than their counterparts in the tablelands. Pampas deer, condors, and pumas have almost completely disappeared in the meseta and are now 445

Río Negro

PATAGONIA mostly found in the sierras to the north and west. Guanacos, maras (“Patagonian hares”) and ostriches are plentiful and can frequently be seen from the highways. European hares and foxes have been introduced. Near Punta Bermeja, 60 km south-east of Viedma, is a Reserva Faunística (Animal Reserve) with a seal colony which totals about 3000 animals, the largest influx being in spring when the mating season starts. Sea-lions, sea elephants, and the occasional whale can also be seen. Birdlife is well-represented by numbers of noisy loros barranqueros which nest in the rocky promontories. A further reserve, at Caleta de los Loros 125 km south-east of Viedma, also has a seal colony, albeit not as large as that at Punta Bermeja. Here the main attraction is the birdlife which feeds on the rich marine life found in this part of the Atlantic. The occasional sea lion visits in spring. The reserve is a research station which studies the habits of migratory birds in conjunction with other similar research stations in North America. The province is one of the major fruit producers of Argentina, and most of the orchards are on the banks of the 760 km Río Negro. The pre-Hispanic inhabitants were called Tehuelches. They were hunters and fishers who roamed the pampas for approximately 10 000 years. By the time the Spaniards arrived these original inhabitants had been absorbed by Araucanians coming from the west. This admixture produced a very bellicose population which fiercely resisted the Spanish advance. With the introduction of the horse by the Spaniards the tribes became horse riders. The only

Río Negro

continuous European settlement surviving from 1779 onwards was the urban nucleus of Viedma–Carmen del Patagones. It was an isolated settlement as the only communication possible was by sea. By 1885 the Argentine army had completed its conquest of the desert and the resistance of the indigenous people was broken, and Patagonia was opened up for European immigrants on a large scale.

Andean mountain passes The province’s only pass to neighboring Chile is Paso de Pérez Rosales. This is a scenic tourist circuit from Bariloche to Puerto Montt — and only for tourist buses! The pass, altitude 978 m, one of the lowest passes in the Andes, is 3 km west of Puerto Frías where the Argentine border controls are. In summer this is a one-day excursion; in winter it is a two-day excursion with a stay in the Hotel Peulla, Chile. This scenic drive is described fully in the companion volume Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island “Region X de los Lagos”.

Places of tourist interest. Río Negro Province is dominated by one location: Bariloche. Located in the lakes district in the western corner, it has world-standard tourist facilities and is visited throughout the year: in summer mountaineers, fishermen, and general vacationers; in winter it is a mecca for skiers. Viedma, the capital situated on the coast near the mouth of the Río Negro, is usually by-passed by the general tourist stream heading further south to Las Grutas near San Antonio Oeste, which is developing into quite an attractive beach resort

446

RÍO NEGRO as an alternative to those in Buenos Aires Province. Third in line would be El Bolsón, which also is a summer and winter holiday resort although on a

smaller scale than Bariloche. For the outdoor enthusiast with an interest in archeology the meseta may be of interest — but you need your own 4WD vehicle.

BARILOCHE

Bariloche Population: 80 000 Postal code: 8400 @ area code: (02944) Altitude: 790 m Distances From Buenos Aires: 1649 km south-east on RN 5 then RN 152 and RN 237 • From Esquel: 310 km north on RN 258 • From Neuquén: 434 km south on RN 237 •

B

ariloche (whose official name is San Carlos de Bariloche), is located on the southern shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi, at the foot of Cerro Otto. In the distance to the south are the Sierra de la Ventana, 1910 m high. Lago Nahuel Huapi was first mentioned by Capitán Don Francisco de César who launched an expedition to find the town which was supposed to have been there. In 1620 Capitán Juan Fernández made another attempt to reach the area from Chile. The Indians living in this area were the Vuriloches (whence the name “Bariloche”) and Puelches, who were a very warlike people. From the mid-1600s until 1720 the Jesuits attempted to convert the Indian population to Christianity, but failed owing to the fierce resistance from the Indians. Most of the missionaries, such as Padre N Mascardi, were martyred. After 1720, the area was not visited by outsiders until 1860, when Perito Moreno launched an expedition from Argentina and Cox led a Chilean expedition into the area. This was followed by much unrest, and peace was not restored to the lakes area until the military expeditions (known as the “desert campaigns”) under Roca and Villegas. From then onwards Europeans arrived and settled in the lakes area. The first house was built in 1895 by Karl Wiederhold; the city’s official foundation date is May 3, 1902. The main church, built in 1946, dominates the town. However, the skyline of the town is changing. Bariloche is a picturesque town with steep streets leading up from the lake foreshore; the hub of town is the Centro Cívico, the main administrative center. The climate is temperate; the highest temperatures are between between November and March oscillating between 17°C (63°F) and 23°C (74°F); the lowest temperatures

are between June and September when the temperatures oscillate between –1°C (30°F) and –6°C (37°F). T h e d r i e s t m o n t h s a r e J a n uary–March and also November. Most precipitation is in the winter months, May–August, which falls as snow. Bariloche can easily be reached from all parts of Argentina. The 447

Bariloche

PATAGONIA Key to map A C D E F H I I M P $ T

Iglesia Catedral Municipalidad Correo Argentino, Centro Cívico Telefónica Argentina Policia y Aduana Hospital Secretaria Municipal de Turismo Secretaria de Turismo de Río Negro Museo de la Patagonia Perito Francisco Moreno, Centro Cívico A.C.A. Banco de la Nación Argentina Central bus terminal

3 Accommodation 3 4 5 6 8 11 12 13 14 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 27 28 29 30 31 33 40 42 44 48 51 53 56 57 62 63 67 69 73 77 78

Hostería Los Alpes Hostería Puyehue Hostería Nontué Hotel Costa del Lago Residencial Maribor Hostería Anduriña Residencial Victoria Hotel Pilmayquén Hostería El Ñire Hotel Apartur Hotel Aspen Ski Residencial El Mirador Hostería Panoramico Residencial Plaza Hotel Milán Hostería Piuké Hostería Los Andes Hostería Roschec Hostería Ivalu Hostería El Viejo Aljibe Hostería Sur Hotel Interlaken Residencial Fontana Hotel Andino Hotel Pucón Hotel Antártida Hotel Cristal Hotel Las Piedras II Residencial Pacífico Hotel Aguas del Sur Hotel Las Piedras I Hostería Aitué Posada del Sol Hotel Premier Hotel Nahuel Huapi Hotel Bella Vista Residencial La Casa de Nogueira 79 Hotel Kilton

Bariloche

80 81 92 97 102 103 107 108 116 117 121 124

Hotel Cottbus Hotel Tres Reyes Hotel Internacional Residencial King’s Hotel Bariloche Hostería Casita Suiza Hostería Quimelén Residencial Flamingo Hotel Kentton Hotel Carlos V Hostería Venezia Albergue Youth Hostel Patagonia Andina 126 Hostería Portofino 129 Albergue Mochilero’s 131 Hotel Gran Roma

4 Eating out 2 7 9 10 16 34 35 36 41 43 45 47 49 50 59 61 70 74 83 87 101 104 106 110 113 114 115 119 120

Restaurant La Fonda del Tío Restaurant La Vieja Posada Pizzería Raulito Restaurant Club de Caza y Pesca Nahuel Huapi Restaurant La Cantina Restaurant Mangiare Restaurant Sobremonte Restaurant El Balcón Pizzería La Jirafa Restaurant Europa Cafetería Friends Cafetería La Mamadera Fast food: Pumpernic Restaurant La Marmita Restaurant La Nueva Estancia Pizzería Pin 9 Restaurant La Vizcacha Pizzería Oásis Restaurant Viejo Munich Cafetería Don Pancho Restaurant Villegas Restaurant Jauja Restaurant 1810 Restaurant La Andinita Restaurant Pavarotti Cafetería Hola Nicolás Restaurant El Barrillito Restaurant Caza Mayor Restaurant La Andina

5 Entertainment 64 Disco By Pass 105 Pub Women

6 Airline offices

39 S.A.P.S.E. and Kaikén 65 TAN 82 LAPA

448

90 SW 93 Aerolíneas Argentinas 94 L.A.D.E.

7 Tour operators and car rental 54 Catedral Turismo and Hiver Turismo 75 Puerto Rent Car 76 Hertz Rent a Car 84 Budget Rent a Car 88 Patagonia Travel 100 Alun-Co Turismo 130 Amuncar Viajes y Turismo

8 Bus companies 17 38 55 58

60 86 91 98 99 111

Bus Norte Andesmar and La Estrella Turisur S.R.L. Transporte El Valle and Lynch Duvet TUS T.A.C. T A Mercedes Tas Choapal T.A. Chevallier, TIRSA, Correcaminos Turismo

0 Services 1 15 18 26 32 37 46 52 66 68 71 72 85 89 95 96 109 112 118 122 123 125 127 128

Sanatorio ARBOS Dos Veintidos Tante Frida Andino Color Sociedad Italiana La Candela wood carvings Krivos Magazines Casa Raul Dry cleaners Gatius Martín Pescador Aspen Ski Farmacia Nahuel Cerámica Bariloche Cambio Casa Piano Information Cerro Campanario Cambio Olano y Cía Artesanías Ascot Porcel de Peralta Librería Cultura Sociedad Germano-Argentina Lave-Rapid Club Andino Bariloche Ceramicas Amancay Intendencia Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi

RÍO NEGRO To rail station

To Neuquén, Villa La Angostura

N

237

PR

RUIZ MORENO

AR O

B. MITRE

To El Bolsón and Esquel

AL

ALBARRACÍN

ON

TISCORNIA

AG

GALLARDO

AVE. ELFLEIN

P. MORENO

E. O'CONNOR

DI

2

CA

AVE. 12 DE OCTUBRE

SARMIENTO

3

ELORDI 7 5

4 8

Lago Nah u e l Hu api

6 9

258

ONELLI

10 12 11 OT TO GOEDECKE P

15

13

14

17 16

H

JOHN O'CONNOR

21 23

19 18 20

I

22 EMILIO FREY

E

27

24

30

29

25 28

26 A

BESCHTEDT 31

36

32 35

37

33 34

48 42 43

44

41

39 40

38 54

PALACIOS

53 47

52 51

46 45

50 49

58 57 60

55 56 59

ROLANDO 74 68 69 70 73 72 75 76 71

65 66 67

77 79 80 78 C. VILLEGAS

81

88 87 86 85 84 83

95

94 93 92 91 90 $

101 105 107 99

$

RECONQUISTA

102

113

$

104

QUAGLIA 123

119 120

114 112 URQUIZA

115 118

M

122 121

116 117

124

I 128

INDEPENDENCIA

MORALES

BR ER O

PANOZZI 131

127

FE

129 130

126

E

D 237

JURAMENTO

C

125

D

Puerto de San Carlos

103

97

89 96 111 110 109 108

106

100 98

To Lago Gutiérrez

82

20

BARILOCHE MAP 2 CENTRO

61 62 63 64

Continued on map 3

449

Bariloche

PATAGONIA open daily 09:00–12:00 and main road to the coast is sealed and 14:00–18:00 open all year round. All Argentine • Asociación de Pesca y Caza Nahuel airlines have regular flights to the Huapi (Nahuel Huapi Hunting and nearby international airport; tourist Fishing Club), corner of 12 de facilities are good with many Octubre and Onelli @ 434380. Open Mon–Fri 14:00–20:00; also good resfirst-class hotels and cafés, restautaurant rants, and night-clubs. It is a summer and winter holiday resort, with E Eating out a quiet season from March to June. In Restaurants the tourist season it can become very • Aguas del Sur, F. P. Moreno 353. crowded, and prices tend to rise. Parrilla Possibly the best months are from • Águila Blanca, San Martín 435. Try March to May, when there are no their puchero • Aqumal, B. Mitre near Moreno winds and the temperature is pleas• Austria, 20 de Febrero 602. German ant. It is the best center from which to explore the Parque Nacional & • cuisine Cantina El Puente, 12 de Octubre Nahuel Huapi and moreover is the 1610. Seafood hub of the southern lakes region. • Casita Suiza, Quaglia 342. Fondue and trout On top of Cerro Otto, 11 km • Caza Mayor, Elflein 96. west from the city center, there is a • Chalet Suisse, Avenida San Martín viewing platform with sweeping 630. German cuisine views over the lake and the chain of • Don Pedro, San Martín 574. Parrilla the Andes. • El Balcón, Mitre 467. Parrilla

B Tourist information • •

•

• • •

Secretaría de Turismo de Río Negro, Palacios 217 @ 428999 fax 426644 Secretaría Municipal de Turismo, Centro Cívico @ 423022 fax 426784. Open Mon–Sat 08:00–20:00. The tourist office has an up-to-date price list of hotels, with a town map, and a listing of private homes which offer accommodation Club Andino Bariloche, 20 de Febrero 30 @ 421158/423918. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–12:00 and 15:00–20:00. The club organizes club walks in the nearby mountain areas and “guest walkers” may participate. Guides for private excursions are available from the club. Maps with locations of refugios and details of camping spots can be bought from the club Secretaría de Turismo de Río Negro, 12 de Octubre 615. Open 07:30–13:00 daily Intendencia Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, San Martín 24, @ 423111, open Mon–Fri 08:00–14:00 Information Cerro Campanario, Villegas 237 1st floor @ 427274 fax;

Bariloche

•

& • • & • • • & • & • & • • • • • • & • • • •

450

El Barrillito, F. P. Moreno 77. International cuisine; trout El Mesón Español, Rolando 263 1st floor. Spanish cuisine El Vegetariano, Neumeyer 20. Vegetarian cuisine Europa, Palacios 149. Parrilla Jauja, Quaglia 366. Parrilla Kandahar, 20 de Febrero 698. International cuisine La Andina, Elflein 95 La Andinita, Mitre 86 La Cantina, Mitre 745. Pastas La Cascada, Mitre 355 La Fonda del Tío, Mitre 1130 La Nueva Estancia, Elflein 301. Parrilla La Marmita, Mitre 329. Swiss cuisine; fondues La Vieja Posada, F. P. Moreno 990. Parrilla La Vizcacha, Rolando 279. Parrilla; locro criollo Le Coq, San Martín 503. International cuisine Los Alemanes, Morales 330. Night club from 22:30 onwards Los Tehuelches, Belgrano 45. Parrilla

RÍO NEGRO Key to map

5 Entertainment

147 Casino Gran Bariloche

7 Tour operators and car rental 111 130 133 138 149 159

TIRSA Correcaminos Turismo Amuncar Viajes y Turismo Avis Lan-Car A-l Localiza

U IS T

A

A

REC

ONQ

TÍN

116

NDE

OSAS

D

A

F

L DE R ANUE UAN M

NCI

PA N

137

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130

131 132 133 134

I

138

139

128 129

NTO

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135 140

136

142 141

CH 149

PA

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AVE . J

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150 151

SO

166

152

J 153 154

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167

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168 155 156

147

169 157 160

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G 170 176

161 171

148 158 159

BER

UTI

172

162 IO

RA LG

N

JUN

BE

175

DE

TUC

174 164

UM

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20

NO

173 163

165 CA

MP

BARILOCHE 3 CENTRO WEST

Restaurant La Andinita Restaurant Pavarotti Cafetería Hola Nicolás Restaurant El Barrillito Restaurant Oriente Restaurant Aguila Blanca Restaurant Le Coq Restaurant Don Pedro

UIZ

115

I

IND

4 Eating out 110 113 114 115 132 153 162 174

114

URQ

AME

Residencial Flamingo Hotel Kentton Albergue Mochilero’s Hotel Gran Roma Residencial Presidente Hotel El Candil Hotel Concorde Hotel Ayelén Hostería Tirol Hotel Millaray Hostería Peumayén Hotel Ausonia Hotel Aconcagua Hotel Quillén Hotel Libertador Residencial Gressoney Hotel San Remo Hostería Cedro Azul Hotel Torresol Hostería Selva Negra Hotel del Lago Ski Hotel Edelweiss Residencial Copahue Hotel Bariloche Ski Residencial del Bosque Hostería La Sureña Residencial Carantania Hotel Panamericano Bariloche Hotel Cumelén Residencial Bonaria

$

112 M

Lago Nah u e l Hu api

108 116 129 131 134 136 137 139 140 141 142 148 151 152 154 155 157 160 161 163 164 166 167 168 169 170 172 173 175 176

GLIA

113

SAN

3 Accommodation

QUA

111 110 109 108

JUR

Municipalidad (Town hall) Correo Argentino Telefónica Argentina Policia and Aduana Secretaria Municipal de Turismo Museo de la Patagonia

Puerto de San Carlos

C D E F I M

Joins map 2

ICH

UEL

O

To Llao-Llao and Cerro Catedral

8 Bus companies

135 Via Bariloche and El Canario 156 Cruz del Sur

9 Sights

165 Monumento to Perito Moreno

0 Services

109 Artesanías Ascot 112 Porcel de Peralta 128 Intendencia Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi 150 Laboratorio Fotocolor Collage 158 Hagebutte 171 Slalom Ski

451

Bariloche

PATAGONIA C Accommodation in Bariloche

Hotel prices increase steeply in the skiing season. Bariloche is a high-class tourist resort, and hotels are not confined to the city but spread all the way to Llao Llao, 24 km to the west along Lago Nahuel Huapi and its inlets. Therefore for ease of reference accommodation has been grouped as follows: • City center: From Calle Campichuelo in the west to 9 de Julio in the east as far as the southern part of Calle Anasagasti • Bariloche west: Avenida de Los Pioneros, from Campichuelo to the Cerro Otto ski-lifts • Lakeside: Avenida Bustillo, along the lake up to KM 5 • Barrio Melipal: 5 km west between Avenida Bustillo and Avenida Los Pioneros • Avenida Bustillo: west of Barrio Melipal as far as KM 10 • Puerto Perito Moreno: Avenida Bustillo KM 10 • Outer west: Avenida Bustillo west of Puerto Perito Moreno to KM 23 For accommodation west of KM 23 see Llao Llao under Accommodation in Puerto Pañuelo on page 483. Bariloche has a normal bed capacity of 14 000 beds which can be seasonally adjusted to a staggering 16 000 beds! Accommodation in the city center — Map on page 449 From Calle Campichuelo in the west to 9 de Julio in the east as far as the southern part of Calle Anasagasti. Apart hotels ****

Hotels **** **** **** *** ***

&

*** *** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * * *

Apartur, B. Mitre 699 E-mail: [email protected]

ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ @ 426190

$D

Bella Vista, Rolando 351 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ E-mail: [email protected] @ 422435 $D/E Nahuel Huapi, F.P. Moreno 252 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ E-mail: [email protected] @ 426146 fax 422921 Tres Reyes, 12 de Octubre 135 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ Fax 424230; E-mail: [email protected] @ 426124 $D/E Antártida, B. Mitre 382 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY @ 423195 $D/E Bariloche Ski, San Martín 352 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: [email protected] @ 432966 $D/F Carlos V, Morales 420 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: [email protected] @ 425474 fax $E/F Cristal, B. Mitre 355 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY E-mail: [email protected] @ 422442 $F Kentton, Morales 330 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 434580 Andino, Palacios 127 AEFGJLPUV Fax 421475 @ 422732 $F/G Kilton, Elflein 235 AEFGJLPUV E-mail: [email protected] @ 425060/424746 Milán, Beschtedt 128 AEFGJLPSUV @ 422624 $F Pilmayquén, 12 de Octubre 705 AEFGJLPSUV @ 426175 $F Premier, Rolando 263 AEFGJLPSUV @ 423681 $G Pucón, Rolando 118 AEFGJLPUV @ 426166 fax 433654 Tivoli, B. Mitre 383 AEFGJLPSUV E-mail: [email protected] @ 426155 $G Aguas del Sur, F.P. Moreno 353 ADELPSV E-mail: [email protected] @ 424329 fax $F Aspen Ski, B. Mitre 651 AELPV @ 424490 fax 425537 Ausonia Ski II, España 351 AELPV @ 433354

Bariloche

452

2

2

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

RÍO NEGRO Accommodation in Bariloche — continued &

* * * * * * * * * *

Bariloche, Quaglia 338 AELPV Cambria, Elfein 183 AELPSV Fax 430400 E-mail: [email protected] Campana, Belgrano 165 AELPV Costa del Lago, 12 de Octubre 955 AELPV Cottbus, Villegas 444 AELPV Gran Roma, San Martín 102 AEFLPV Interlaken, V.A. O’Connor 383 AELPV Internacional Centrico, B. Mitre 171 AELPSV Las Piedras I, Rolando 127 AELPV Las Piedras II, Palacios 235 AELPV

@

426161

$F/G 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

422511 422162 430954 fax 425440 422218 426156 425938 435073 425594

$G $G $F

2 2 2

$G

2

@ @ @ @ @

424656 fax 425276 422064 422700 426111

$E/G $D/E $F/G $G $F

2 2 2 2 2

@ @ @

423041 423316 423044

$G 2 $G 2 $F/G 2

@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @ @

422196 422478 422677 fax 423237 423416 fax 422222 423468 422795 423011 fax 422645 422407

$F/G $E/G $G $G $G $H $F $H

@ @ @ @ @

435100 429431 422044 423648 424657

@

420375

@

430124

@ @ @ @ @

422221 422055 422159 422200 423248

Hosterías *** *** **

&

** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** * *

&

* * * * * *

La Pastorella, Belgrano 127 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: [email protected] Nontué, 12 de Octubre 969 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Aitué, Rolando 141 AEFGJLPSUV Anduriña, B. Mitre 810 AEFGJLPSUV Casita Suiza, Quaglia 342 AEFGJLPSUV El Ñire, J O’Connor 94 AEFGJLPSUV E-mail: [email protected] El Viejo Aljibe, Frey 571 AEFGJLPSUV Piuké, Beschtedt 130 AEFGJLPSUV Puyehue, Elordi 243 AEFGJLPSUV Fax 429754 E-mail: [email protected] Quimelén, Gallardo 136 AEFGJLPSUV Sur, Beschtedt 101 AEFGJLPSUV Ivalu, Frey 535 AELPSV Los Alpes, Diagonal Capraro 1034 AELPV Los Andes, F.P. Moreno 594 AEFLPV Panoramico, F.P. Moreno 646 AELPV Portofino, Morales 439 AELPV Posada del Sol, Villegas 148 AEFLPV Roschec, Elflein 533 AELPV Venezia, Morales 446 AEFLPSV

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

$H 2 $F/G 2

Residenciales

A Flamingo, B. Mitre 24 FLP Overlooks the lake A Fontana, Palacios 276 ELPS A King’s, F.P. Moreno 136 LP A La Casa de Nogueira, Elflein 205 LP A Maribor, Gallardo 946 LP A Pacífico, F.P. Moreno 335 LP E-mail: [email protected] A Plaza, J O’Connor 431 LP E-mail: [email protected] B El Mirador, F.P. Moreno 652 L German spoken; views of the lake B Martín, 20 de Febrero 555 ELS B Monte Grande, 25 de Mayo 1544 South L B Victoria, B. Mitre 815 L B Wikter, Güemes 566 L

453

$G

2

$I 2 $H 2 $G/H 2 $G/H 2

Bariloche

PATAGONIA Accommodation in Bariloche — continued Albergues Albergues cater for young travelers and backpackers and are an integral part of the accommodation scene in Bariloche. These albergues are scattered over a wide area and are not necessarily in the center. • Alaska, Lilinquen 328 in Barrio Pinar de la Festa E- mail: [email protected] ABLV @ 461564 fax $I 1 AIV @ 431627x fax $I 1 • Amuncar, San Martín 82 @ 425007 • La Juanita, 12 de Octubre 2002 ABL @ 422222 $I 1 • Los Andes, Moreno 594 @ 431627 • Mochilero’s, San Martín 82 Fax 423187 E-mail: [email protected]; backpackers’ accommodation opposite the Civic Center @ 422783 • Patagonia Andina, Morales 564 E-mail: [email protected] @ 422783 fax • Youth Hostel Patagonia Andina, Morales 564 ABLV

Accommodation in the city center — Map on page 451 Hotels ***** ***** **** *** *** *** ** ** ** * * * * * *

Edelweiss, San Martín 202 ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$STUVXYZ E-mail: hoteledelweiss.com.ar @ 426165 Panamericano Bariloche, San Martín 536 ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$STUVXYZ E-mail: [email protected] @ 425850 Concorde, Libertad 131 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$STUVYZ @ 424500 fax Aconcagua, San Martín 289 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 424719 @ 424718 fax Del Lago Ski, San Martín 645 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 426689 @ 426134 Torresol, España 462 ACDEFGJKLPTUVY @ 422484 Millaray, Libertad 195 ADEFGJLPSUV @ 422229 fax Quillén, San Martín 415 AEFGJLPSUV Fax 424340 @ 422669 San Remo, San Martín 457 AEFGJLPSUV Fax 427816 E:mail: [email protected] @ 424628 Ausonia, J.M de Rosas 454 AELPV @ 424078 Ayelén, Libertad 157 AELPV E-mail: [email protected] @ 423611 Cumelén, San Martín 580 AELPV @ 428076 Del Bosque, San Martín 422 ALP E-mail: [email protected] @ 432966 El Candil, J.M. de Rosas 150 AELPSV E-mail: [email protected] @ 424494 Libertador, San Martín 441 AELPV @ 433116

Hosterías *** ** ** * *

Tirol, Libertad 175 E-mail: [email protected] La Sureña, San Martín 432 Selva Negra, San Martín 555 Peumayén, Juramento 182 Cedro Azul, España 456

Bariloche

ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY AEFGJLPUV AEFGJLPSUV AELPV AELPV

454

@ @ @ @ @

426152 422013 424632 422710 426112

$B/C 2 $B/C 2 $E

1

$F

2

$D/F 2 $F

2

$G/H 2 $F/G 2

$F/G 2

$F $F/G $E/F $H $F

2 2 2 2 2

RÍO NEGRO Accommodation in Bariloche — continued Residenciales

A Bonaria, Salta 422 A Carantania, San Martín 496 A Copahue, San Martín 280 E-mail: [email protected] A Gressoney, San Martín 447 A Presidente, San Martín 152

LP LP FLP LP LP

@ @

423136 425248

@ @ @

426289 433116 422385

Accommodation in Bariloche west Outside map area: Avenida de los Pioneros, from Campichuelo to the Cerro Otto ski-lifts. Hotels ***** *

La Cascada, KM 5.6 ACDEFGHJKLMNPR$STUVXYZ Fax 441076; E-mail: [email protected] @ 441088 L’Edelil, Boock 565 KM 4 AELPSV @ 442048 fax

Hosterías

$D/E 2 $G/H 2

@

441041 fax

$F/G 2

@

441989

$G

2

del Faldeo, KM 8 AEFGJLPUV @ 461169 $F Los Arcos, KM 3.3 AEFGJLPUV @ 441700 fax $E * Ojo De Agua, KM 5 AELPV @ 441921 $E • Private accommodation: Señor Gerhard Baumann, Avenida de los Pioneros 860 German and English spoken ABZ @ 424502

2 4 4

*** **

Las Vertientes, KM 2.3 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY La Danesa, KM 3.6 AEFGJLPSUV E-mail: [email protected]

Cabañas ** **

Lakeside Along Avenida Bustillo up to KM 5. Hotels *

Huemul, KM 1.5 E-mail: [email protected]

Residenciales

A Parque, KM 1

Cabañas El Yeti, KM 5.6 • Los Cerezos, KM 5.2

*

AELPSV

@

424066

LP

@

421888

AELPV

@ @

442073 fax 442194

$F

2

$E

4

Accommodation in Barrio Melipal Ave. Bustillo 5 km west, between Avenida Bustillo and Avenida de los Pioneros. Hosterías ** * * *

Lonquimay, Lonquimay 3672 AEFGJLPUV Caballito Blanco, Copahué 4191 AELPV Cari Hué, KM 5.2 near A. Larrochette ALP E-mail: [email protected] Villa Sokol, Belgrano 75 AELPSV

Cabañas * *

El Mangangá, Catedral 3343 Palito’s, Tronador 4150

AELPV AELPV

455

@ @

443450 422993

@ @

441746 441266

$F/G 2

@ @

442834 425084

$E $F

4 4

Bariloche

PATAGONIA Accommodation in Bariloche — continued Accommodation on Avenida Bustillo West of Barrio Melipal as far as KM 10. Hotels ****

Nido del Cóndor Resort KM 6.9 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: [email protected]

@

442221

Hosterías *** *** ***

del Viejo Molino, KM 6.4 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY E-mail: [email protected] De la Luna, KM 7.5 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Fax 461600 Santa Rita, KM 7.2 ACDEFGJKLPSTUVY Web site: www.santarita.com.ar

Cabañas ** ** ** * * * *

Del Cruce, KM 8.7 AEFGJLPUV La Cebra, KM 7 AEFGJLPUV Peters, KM 6.6 AEFGJLPUV Araucaria, KM 8 AELPV Del Catedral, KM 8.6 AELPV La Ponderosa, KM 7.5 AELPV Cabaña Vuchalafquen Lien, Bustillo KM 7.5 AELPV

@

441011 fax

$D/E 2

@

462424

$F

@

461028 fax

$D/E 2

@ @ @ @

462314 461390 fax 441669 fax 461502

$E/F $D $D

4 4 5

@ @

461457 461062

$F $F

2 4

$C

2

2

Accommodation in Puerto Perito Moreno Avenida Bustillo KM 10. Hotels **** ** *

El Casco, KM 11 ACDEFGHJKLMNP$TUVYZ Fax 461088 German spoken @ 461032 Pájaro Azul, KM 10.8 AEFGJLPUV E-mail: [email protected] @ 461025 fax Altamira del Lago, KM 10.5 AELPSV @ 462292

$F/G 2 $G 2

Accommodation in the outer west On Avenida Bustillo west of Puerto Perito Moreno to KM 23. Hosterías ** * * *

• • • • • & • • •

Playa Serena, KM 13.1 Los Notros, KM 20 E- mail: [email protected] del Trébol, KM 18 Pichi Ruca, KM 16.3

AEFGJLPUV AELPV AELPV AELPV

@

462100

@ @ @

448616 448072 448260

$G

2

Malevil, Pasaje Pagano 275. Interna- & • Puerto Viejo, 12 de Octubre near tional cuisine, bar Onelli. Overlooking Lago Nahuel Huapi Mangiare, Palacios 150. Italian cuisine & • Sobremonte, B. Mitre 422 • Viejo Munich, B. Mitre 102. German 1810, Elflein 167. Parrilla cuisine Nahuel Huapi, F. P. Moreno 252 • Villegas, Villegas 363. Trout and veniOriente, San Martín 130. Chinese cuison sine Pavarotti, Quaglia 259 Restaurants on the Llao Llao road Pilmayquen, 12 de Octubre 705 Some of the Bariloche’s best restaurants Portal del Lago, San Martín 127. Interare on the road to Llao Llao. national cuisine

Bariloche

456

RÍO NEGRO AROUND BARILOCHE

MISIÓN JESUITICA HUEMUL

PR Pe PTO PAÑUELO

Br

18

az

Lago Llao-Llao

ní

ns

PR ul

OV

a Sa

o C am pa

L.

na

dr

IN

CE

CE

NE

UQ

UÉ

RÍO

N

L ago Nahuel Huapi NE

o

GR

O

rio

Isla de las Gallinas

P. M or

Cerro V. López

IN

n Pe

CERRO CAMPANARIO

OV

COLONIA SUIZA

en

Isla Huemul o

2076

R 237 237 Cerro Otto

Key to map R

BARILOCHE

R

Mountain refuge VILLA CERRO CATEDRAL

Mountain hikes

258

R

N

Cerro Tres Reyes 1772

rre

z

Ski lifts

tié

Skiing areas R

Cruiseship harbor

La

go

Golf course

Gu

18

R

Cerro Ñire

R 2200

•

I Post and telegraph

Dirty Dick’s Bar, Bustillo KM 5.2. International cuisine; music • El Casco, Bustillo KM 11. Parrilla • La Tranquera, Bustillo KM 8.4. Parrilla Pizzerías • La Andina, Elflein 95 • La Andinita, B. Mitre 56. Pizzas and churros • La Jirafa, Palacios 288. • Oásis, F. P. Moreno 278 • Pin 9, Rolando 103 • Raulito, Gallardo 920

• •

L Financial

All banks charge commission on travelers’ checks. • Banco de Galicia y Buenos Aires, Moreno 77. ATM • Banco de la Nación Argentina, Mitre 180. ATM • Cambio Casa Piano, B. Mitre 131 @ 423733. Open 09:00–13:00 and 16:00–20:00 • Cambio Olano y Cía, Quaglia 238

Cafeterías • Don Pancho, B. Mitre 150 • Friends, Mitre 302 • Hola Nicolás, Moreno 10. Pastries and hot chocolate • La Mamadera, B. Mitre 362 • Fast food: Pumpernic, B. Mitre 305

M Services and facilities

• •

n Entertainment • • • • • •

Post office: Correo Argentino, Centro Cívico Telephone: Telefónica Argentina, Elflein 554

• •

Casino Gran Bariloche, España 407 Disco By Pass, Rolando 155 near B. Mitre Disco Cerebro, J. M. de Rosas 405 Disco Feet Up, Palacios near B. Mitre Disco Grisú, J. M. de Rosas 574 Women, Elflein 151. Bar

•

457

Newspapers and magazines: Casa Raúl, Mitre 367 Books: Librería Cultura, Elflein 78 @ 420193 Dry cleaner: Gatius, Villegas 146 Laundromat: Lave-Rapid, Quaglia 427 Medical Center: Sanatorio ARBOS (Cruz Azul), Diagonal Capraro 1216 @ 426169 fax

Bariloche

PATAGONIA R Air services from Bariloche

The airport is 11 km from town. There is an airport departure tax. The airport has been recently upgraded. • Empresa Ali, Mitre near Villegas has airport bus leaving one and half hours before each flight; fare $2.50 • Transportes Aéreos Neuquén (TAN), Villegas 144 @ 427889 • Aerolíneas Argentinas, Mitre 185 @ 422591 ° Buenos Aires; 3 daily • L.A.D.E., Quaglia 242 @ 423562; e-mail: [email protected]. Refer to the L.A.D.E. section under Air services from Buenos Aires City on page 66 • LAPA, Villegas 137 @ 423714 ° Buenos Aires; 1 daily • S.A.P.S.E. (servicios Aéreos Patagonicos S.E.) Palacios 266 @ 420251/428257 ° Buenos Aires via Viedma; 1 weekly • Kaikén, Palacios 266 @ 428257 • Southern Winds, Villegas 145 @ 43490; e-mail: [email protected] For services see Air services from Córdoba on page 266 •

U Motoring

Pharmacy: Farmacia Nahuel, Moreno 240 Photographic supplies • Laboratorio Fotocolor Collage, San Martín 287 @ 427997 • Porcel de Peralta, Mitre 11 @ 422741 • Centro de la Fotografia, Mitre 139 • Andino Color, Mitre 515 @ 429940 Ski hire • Aspen Ski, Moreno 222 • Slalom ski, Ave. San Martín 460 @ 423763 Sporting supplies • Fishing and sport equipment: Martín Pescador, Rolando 257 @ 421637 Hire of camping vans • Dos Veintidos, Mitre 797 @ 425086. Sleeping bags, mountain gear • Krivos, Mitre 316 @ 441430 fax • Lynch Duvet, Moreno 371 @ 432808 fax. Back packs, sleeping bags

The road east to the coast via Neuquén is sealed all the way and is open all year round. Service stations • A.C.A., 12 de Octubre 785. Maps and road information • Esso Servicentro, Avenida San Martín 635 Car rental If you intend to travel to Chile in a hired car, you must obtain written permission. • AI, San Martín 235 @ 426240 fax 427494 • Avis, San Martín 130 @ 431648 fax 431649; E-mail: avis@bariloche. com.ar • Budget, Mitre 106 1st floor @ 422482 fax • Hertz, Villegas 222 @ 441218 fax 426508 • Localiza, San Martín 491 local 6 @ 429087 • Lan-Car, Libertad 114 @ 424404 • Puerto Rent Car, Villegas 216 @ 435222. 24 hour service

N Clubs •

• •

Austrian: Asociación Argentina Austriaca, 24 de Septiembre 230 @ 424873 German: Sociedad Germano-Argentina, Gallardo 40 @ 422608 Italian: Sociedad Italiana, Beschtedt 141 @ 22247

T Trains

F C General Roca station is on RN 237, 3 km east from the center of the city. The railroad information office is at San Martín 127 @ 426181 • To Buenos Aires (Retiro station): “Expreso Lagos del Sur” departs Mon, Tues, Fri; 31 hours

P Visas, passports •

Chilean consulate, J.M. de Rosas @ 422842

Bariloche

458

RÍO NEGRO S Buses from Bariloche

The central bus terminal is on RN 237 @ 426999, but buses still pick up passengers from their downtown offices. Long-distance bus companies • A33 T.A. Chevallier S.A., Prito Moreno 107 @ 423090 • A39 Codao, Perito Moreno 470 @ 423654 • A52 El Canario, San Martín 127 @ 426181 • A71 El Rápido, bus terminal @ 426999 • A76 El Sureño, bus terminal @ 430122 • A81 Andesmar, Palacios 246 bus terminal @ 430211 ° Mendoza (19 hrs) via Piedra del Águila, Neuquén (6 hrs), Catriel (25 de Mayo), General Alvear, and San Rafael • A155 La Estrella, Palacios 246 @ 422140 • A174 Los Rápidos/Lago Los Moscos, Línea Mascardi • A211 T.A.C., B. Mitre 138 @ 422231/424854 • A213 Tas Choapa Internacional, Moreno 138 @ 426663 • A218 TIRSA, Quaglia 197 @ 426999 • A222 Turismo Algarrobal @ 423081 • A224 La Unión del Sud, Moreno 365 @ 428589 • A234 T.A. Mercedes, B. Mitre 161 @ 426000/424269 • A239 Ko-Ko, Moreno 107 @ 423090 • A251 TUS, Elflein 320 near Rolando @ 424565 • A262 El Valle, Moreno 365 @ 428589 • A265 Vía Bariloche, Mitre 321 @ 429012 • A302 Don Otto, bus terminal @ 426999 • A303 La Puntual, bus terminal of. 3/4 @ 426228 • A346 Cruz del Sur, San Martín 453; to Chile Companies with local services • Transporte Ali, Mitre near Villegas • Transportes Tres de Mayo #10, #20; General Roca train station @ 426173 Local and provincial services ° Aeropuerto Internacional Bariloche ° Cerro Catedral(1 2 hour, $2.40) ° Choele Choel (9 hrs) via Neuquén, Cipolletti (6 hrs), and General Roca (6 hrs) ; 1–2 daily ° El Bolsón ($9.00; 31 2 hrs); 5–7 daily ° El Bolsón (5 hrs) via Quimey Mahuida, Villa Mascardi, El Foyel, Los Repollos, and Gruta Virgen; 3 weekly ° Ingeniero Jacobacci; 1 daily ° Lago Gutiérrez via Teleférico Cerro Otto; daily every 20 minutes ° Llao Llao ($1.30) via Playa Bonita, Aerosilla Cerro Campanario, Colonia Suiza, Puerto Pañuelo; daily services every 20 minutes ° Viedma (151 2 hrs) via Pilcaniyeu, Comallo, Onelli, Ingeniero Jacobacci ($12.00); Los Menucos, Sierra Colorada, Valcheta, San Antonio Oeste; 1–2 services daily ° Villa Traful ($10.00; 21 2 hrs); 3 daily Long-distance services • •

Destination Bahía Blanca Buenos Aires

Fare $60.00 $76.00

Services 3 daily 7 daily

•

Caleta Olivia

$70.00

4 weekly

Duration Company 16 hrs A76, A155, A262, A303 23 hrs A33, A52, A155, A211, A262, A265, A303 A302

459

Bariloche

PATAGONIA Buses from Bariloche — continued • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Córdoba $90.00 Comodoro Rivadavia $68.00 Epuyén $14.30 Esquel $21.00 Junín de los Andes $19.00 La Plata $73.00 Malargüe $56.50 Mar del Plata $83.00 Mendoza $61.00 Miramar $80.00 Necochea $73.00 Neuquén $35.00 Osorno (Chile) $20.00 Puerto Madryn $55.00 Puerto Montt (Chile) $27.50 Río Gallegos $104.00 Rosario $83.00 San Juan $72.00 San Luis San Rafael $56.00 Santa Rosa (La Pampa) $58.00 San Martín de Los Andes $22.00 Trelew $60.00 Viedma $55.00

5 weekly

22 hrs A211, A251,

2 daily

14 hrs A211, A302 A234 6 hrs A39, A81, A211, A234, A265, A302

6 daily 1 daily 3 daily 5 weekly 3 daily 3 daily 3 daily 6 daily

19 hrs 19 hrs 21 hrs 7 hrs

4 daily

6 hrs

4 daily 1 daily 2 weekly

9 hrs

4 weekly 1–2 daily

A213, A234, A346 A211 24 hrs A33, A218 A81 T.I.C.S.A. 22 hrs A81, A211

1 daily

21 hrs A33

1 daily

51 2 hrs A239, A251 A302 17 hrs A39, A262, A303

1–2 daily

•

# Water transport

All excursion boats and catamarans leave from Puerto Pañuelo. See Water transport from Puerto Pañuelo on 482. • Patagonia Travel, Mitre 150 @ 424297. Bookings for launch cruises on Lago Nahuel Huapi; bookings include bus to Puerto Pañuelo

•

La Candela, Mitre 447. Wood carvings Tante Frida, Mitre 660. Chocolates

a Sport

A wide range of sporting activities are possible in and around Bariloche. • Fishing: A permit is required for trout fishing. The season begins in November • Golf: Pinares Golf, Avenida Bustillo KM 16 • Hunting: Inquire at Club de Caza y Pesca Nahuel Huapi, 12 de Octubre near Onelli. The hunting season runs from March 1 to the end of May. Hunting is not permitted in national parks. Animals which may be hunted include wild boar and European stag • Mountaineering: Club Andino Bariloche, 20 de Febrero 30. Has mountain walks for members and guests at weekends. These excursions

Y Shopping

Bariloche is best known for its sweaters and sweets. Near Moreno and Villegas is the Paseo de los Artesanos, where local artists sell their creations. • Amancay, Morales 665. Ceramics • Artes del Fuego, Don Bosco 152. Ceramics • Ascot, Mitre 52. Artesanías • Cerámica Bariloche, Mitre 112. Ceramics • Hagebutte, Ave. San Martín 467. Cosmetics

Bariloche

A239 A211 A211 A71, A234 A81, A211 A71, A234 A71, A234 A33, A52, A81, A234, A251, A262, A265 A213, A234, A346 A302

460

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is the favorite skiing area. The Mercedes bus company, Mitre 161, runs a bus service at one-hour intervals from 08:00 to 18:00. For detailed information on Cerro Catedral see page 468. Walking trails from the top leading downhill are marked with red and yellow markers. The descent takes between three and four hours • Cerro Otto: Only about 5 km from downtown Bariloche. Follow Avenida Pioneros, also known as Ruta de Faldeo. The cable car operates the full year Mon–Sat 14:00–18:00; in the winter season also Sundays • For those interested in cross-country skiing, contact Club Andino Bariloche. The favorite areas are on Cerro López and from Refugio Arroyo Challhuaco to Refugio Neumeyer on the Sierra de la Ventana. Refugio Neumeyer @ (02944) 428995; e-mail: refneubariloche.com.ar Sport in Villa Lago Gutiérrez • Villa Arelauquen Golf Club, @ 4237757/424852/422112; 18 holes

are graded. To participate enquire at the club office. See also Tourist information above. The club also provides guides for individual hikes and climbing excursions, but this is expensive. The club owns several mountain refuges in the national park most of them located above 1000 m. Firewood is provided and some of the huts are managed during the summer season. Maps and information regarding the location of huts can be obtained from Club Andino Bariloche and from the Servicio Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi. Check with the club location of refuges and if booking is required. See also under Accommodation in Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi on 481. The national parks service also provides guides but they are expensive. Don’t forget to bring sun protection cream Polo: Bariloche Polo Club, Ave. Bustillo KM 10 @ 461035 Sailing and boating: Bariloche Yacht Club, Avenida Bustillo KM 15.6 @ 448045 Scuba diving: Club Náutico, Avenida Bustillo KM 3.5 @ 441400. There are diving sites near Isla de las Gallinas and at Pichi Traful. Diving is restricted to 22 m Water-skiing: Practiced on Playa Bonita, Avenida Bustillo KM 8; Laguna El Trébol, Avenida Bustillo KM 18; and Lago Gutiérrez, RN 253 KM 13 Wind surfing: In Bahía Serena, Avenida Bustillo KM 12; Lago Gutiérrez RN 253 KM 13; and Laguna El Trébol, Avenida Bustillo KM 18. For more information ring @ 426181, extension 429

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Museo de la Patagonia Perito Francisco P. Moreno (Francisco Perito P. Moreno Patagonia Museum), Centro Cívico. Open Tues–Fri 10:00–12:30 and 14:00–19:00, Sat 10:00–13:00. Altogether there are 11 rooms with exhibits of geology, also an interesting collection of artefacts of the pre-Hispanic inhabitants. Open Tues–Fri 10:00–12:30 and 14:00–19:00, Mon and Sat 10:00–13:00. Admission free • Museo Paleontólogico, Avenida 12 de Octubre near Sarmiento. Open Mon–Sat 16:00–20:00 • Trencito, a narrow-gauge train running along the Costanera. It can be boarded at Puerto San Carlos; the round trip takes about one hour Sightseeing in Puerto Moreno • Granja de Truchas Bariloche (Bariloche Trout Farm), located on Avenida Bustillo KM 10. Open daily 09:00–13:00 and 15:00–20:00. Bus Tres de Febrero

Skiing There are four skiing areas in the Bariloche area: Cerro Catedral, a mammoth operation of world standard; Cerro Otto and the cross-country or Nordic skiing area of Cerro López; and a skiing area on Cerro Ñireco in the Sierra de la Ventana. The skiing season runs from July to early October. • Cerro Catedral: It is advantageous to book with a tour company because you may secure discounts for lift tickets. Only 23 km west of Bariloche this 461

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PATAGONIA Sightseeing in Colonia Suiza • Centro de Piscicultura, Beveraggi. Trout farming. Open daily 09:00–20:00. Bus Tres de Febrero • Granja Suiza, Goye y Sakman. Wood carvings, regional products, ceramics; artists’ fair on Sundays

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s Excursions Tour operators All tour operators charge the same prices, and tour buses pick up participants from their respective hotels. • Alun-Co Turismo, Moreno 187 @ 422283. Also car hire • Amuncar Viajes y Turismo, Ave. San Martín 82 @ 431627 fax 423187 • Asociación Argentina de Guías de Montaña (Argentine Mountain Guide Association), @ 4423109, E-mail: [email protected] list of mountain guides; also organizes tours. Contact: Sr. Arko Toncek • Asociación Argentina de Bicicletas de Montaña (Argentine Mountain Bike Association) @ 4423529; e-mail: [email protected]. Contact: Sr. Carlos Viaene • Catedral Turismo, B. Mitre 399 @ 425443. Has its own fleet of micros, and organizes land and lake cruises. They are also the sole operators on the scenic trip to Puerto Montt via Paso de Pérez Rosales • Correcaminos Turismo, Quaglia 197 @ 426076. Agent for Tas-Choapa bus to Chile. Adventure tour operator: Horse riding, trekking, rafting, fishing excursions, mountain bike • Cumbres Patagonia, Villegas 222 @ 423283/423646. Adventure tour operator: Horse riding, trekking, rafting, fishing excursions, mountain bike • Hiver Turismo, B. Mitre 387 @ 425414. Caters for “adventure tourism” • Turismo Algarrobal, 9 de Julio 1800 @ 423081 • Turisur S.R.L., Moreno 310 @ 426109. Catamarans on Lago Nahuel Huapi

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Tours • Reserva Histórica, Ecológica y Turística Municipal Isla Huemul (Huemul Island Municipal Historic, Ecological and Tourist Reserve): This

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island can be reached by ferries from Puerto San Carlos, down from Centro Cívico. The forest cover of the island has been preserved in its natural state Cerro Catedral: Bus tours from Bariloche to the foot of Cerro Catedral allow for less than two hours to reach the mountain top; entrance to the Cerro Catedral ski slopes, below the snow line. See also Cerro Catedral on page 468 Osorno in Chile: The road at first closely follows the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi. There are vistas over the lake of Bariloche and Cerro Tronador is visible most of the way. If you are traveling by bus, there is usually a stop at the resort town of Villa La Angostura where the scenic lakes road to San Martín de los Andes begins—see Villa La Angostura on page 432. The most picturesque part on the Argentine side is from Correntoso (where there is a camping site) onwards, when the climb starts through the Río Blanco valley. The Argentine passport control is a good hour’s drive from the Paso Puyehué. As you enter Chile you are in the Parque Nacional Puyehue. Right at the Chilean passport control you are within striking distance of Volcán Puyehue and it is worth taking a picture from here. The best views on the Argentine side are on the left-hand side of the bus. On the Chilean side the best views are on the right-hand side. The whole trip from Bariloche to Osorno is breathtaking: you are either passing along lakes with high mountains as a backdrop, or you are in the mountains with still higher mountains, or even volcanoes, on either side Esquel: Leave Bariloche by Avenida Onelli, which is the starting point of RN 258. Six km outside town is the turn-off east to the Refugio Neumeyer on Cerro Ñireco. Shortly afterwards you get your first view of Lago Gutiérrez. The road is well sealed and follows the eastern edge of the lake for about 9 km, passing on the way through the villages of Ruca Lafquen, Villa Atalaya, and Quimey Mahuida, all picturesque villages

RÍO NEGRO overlooking the lake. Some have hotels and restaurants and water sports facilities. There are views over the lake to Cerro Catedral, whose forests ascend to 2400 m. Four km after the bridge at the southern end of Lago Gutiérrez is another picturesque lake, Lago Mascardi, which is larger and offers boat rides. There is a watershed between Lago Gutiérrez and Lago Mascardi—water from Lago Gutiérrez empties into Lago Nahuel Huapi whereas water from Lago Mascardi flows into the Río Manso. Villa Mascardi has a camping ground, Suyai, near the A.C.A. service station. After crossing Arroyo Guillermo there is a hotel on the outskirts of Villa Mascardi. A little further on is the turn-off to the upper reaches of Lago Mascardi, onto an all-weather, narrow, gravel road. You can reach Río Alerce on good walking trails along this river, and Río Frías, past Cerro Tronador. Continuing on RN 258 after leaving Villa Mascardi, the road follows the eastern side of Lago Guillelmo. Here the road is curved and sometimes high above the valley. At the end of Lago Guillelmo , the road surface becomes gravel just before the full-scale descent into the El Bolsón valley. The trip from there onwards is quite interesting, as it descends and ascends several times to negotiate a difficult stretch. For a short distance the valley widens and the mountains appear lower. Near Pampa El Toro the road is particularly winding. The higher mountain range is on the eastern side. Pampa El Toro itself is nothing more than a road workers’ camp; here the road turns off to Laguna Huata Hue and Lago Steffen, both good for fishing. This area can get very cold even in summer. The river is about 300 m below the road level, and the road winds on its descent. At KM 65 waterfalls come into view. Río Villegas with a small road diner is near here. The scenery here is picturesque, with views over the valley below. Forty km before El Bolsón you reach the valley floor, where there is a café called Tacuifi. Shortly before

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reaching El Bolsón the usually snow-covered peaks of the Cerro Ventisquero, 2285 m come into view on the western side. At KM 95 there is a crossing over the Río Foyel. The valley narrows, but the mountains here are not terribly high. The road continues through a sort of canyon. On the left-hand side is the Cascada de la Virgen, and past this waterfall is a Parrilla, El Rancho de Fernando, just where two valleys intersect, forming a wide section. The river we are following is called Río Los Repollos. The valley is now very wide, made up of continuous river flats, and its slopes are forested on both sides. On the right-hand side is the turn-off to Mallin Ahogado. Just on the outskirts of El Bolsón near the river is El Bolsón camping ground. Motel La Posta on the left-hand side looks good. The most picturesque part however is after Cholila, when the road enters the Parque Nacional Los Alerces. To take full advantage of the views you should sit on the right-hand side of the bus when coming from Bariloche. In fact this trip is better made the other way, leaving Esquel in the morning so that you can enjoy the trip through the national park in broad daylight San Martín de los Andes via the northern route: Leave Bariloche on RN 237 which for the first 18 km follows Lago Nahuel Huapi. After you have crossed the bridge over the Río Limay, the mountains are lower and the land becomes drier. Three km past the Río Limay bridge is the turn-off to Villa La Angostura and on to Osorno and Puerto Montt in Chile. The all-weather sealed road follows the Río Limay almost all the way to Confluencia. Before you cross the Río Traful at Confluencia there is the turn-off west onto Ruta “d” and later Ruta “l” to Lago Traful, to Lago Correntoso and Chile. A bit further on overlooking the valley is the hostería. To take the more picturesque route, take the turn-off west after crossing the Río Traful. Tourist buses usually take this route, unless Córdoba pass is impassable. Here

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rise higher—this is cattle country. The road ascends slightly and crosses the Río Chimehuin at Junín de los Andes. The valley which the road follows here is fairly wide and green. The mountains on either side steadily increase in height and are frequently snow-covered even in summer. Hotels on the city’s outskirts mark the traveler’s arrival in San Martín de los Andes Lake excursions T. A. Mercedes tourist buses leave Bariloche at 09:00 from B Mitre 161 for Puerto Pañuelo to meet the catamarans; municipal buses leave Bariloche from the corner of Moreno and Sargento Rolando for Puerto Pañuelo. Buses are always crowded, so leave early, about 08:30. • Lago Nahuel Huapi: This lake has seven coves or brazos. At the entrance to Brazo Puerto Blest is Isla Centinela which contains the mausoleum of Don Francisco Perito Moreno, one of the trail-blazers of the national park. The island’s original Indian name was “Nahuel Huapi”, which means “tiger island”, after the shape of the island. The lake covers 560 square km (216 square miles) and its longest arm is 96 km long; its deepest point is 464 m; and it is 764 m above sea-level. A catamaran leaves Puerto Pañuelo at about 10:30 daily and proceeds north, passing Isla Victoria • Isla Victoria and Bosque Arrayanes: Departs Puerto Pañuelo 10:00 • Puerto Blest, waterfalls, and Laguna Frías: Departs Puerto Pañuelo 10:00 • Isla Victoria, Bosque Arrayanes, and Villa La Angostura: Departs Puerto Pañuelo Wed 09:30 • Cerro Tronador: Departs Puerto Mascardi 11:00 Conducted tours See also Tours above. • Cerro Catedral: Half-day trip; departs 13:30 • Cerro López: Half- day; departs 13:30 • Cerro Tronador: Full day trip; includes a walk to Glaciar Negro (“Black Glacier”) and Cascada Los Alerces; departs 08:00

wind and water erosion have created spectacular rock formations known as Piedra del Viento. Twelve km past Confluencia, the road turns north and follows the Arroyo Córdoba for some 8 km. The mountains on both sides of the road are in the 1800 m range. Vegetation here is reduced to small patches of grass. Shortly afterwards the ascent to the Paso de Córdoba begins, a picturesque 6 km stretch of winding mountain road. Signs along the road point out photogenic spots. The mountains again approach the 2100 m mark as we get closer to Lago Meliquina and the Cerro Chapelco skiing slopes. Twenty-six km past Lago Meliquina and over a very picturesque mountain road, we reach San Martín de los Andes. See also San Martín de los Andes on page 422 San Martín de los Andes via RN 40 and RN 234: This is the less scenic route taken by bus services, but has the advantage that the road is sealed for most of the way and open all year round. At Confluencia, where there is an A.C.A. service station on the left-hand side at the Traful junction where the Río Traful joins the Río Limay, cross the bridge over the Río Traful and turn east. For 42 km the road follows the northern rim of the Río Limay, which here almost forms a lake due to the water stored by dams such as Dique Alicura further down the valley. The first part is interesting as the valley is just wide enough for the river and the road, but it quickly becomes rather unattractive as most of the time the land is dry. Occasionally the rock formations have unusual shapes due to the strong forces of wind erosion. Across the river weir a feeble attempt has been made to plant conifers. After crossing Río Collón Curá, the road turns sharply northwards, becoming RN 40, which runs through undulating country almost bare of growth. La Rinconada is nothing more than a long narrow bridge over the Río Aluminé. Across the river on the western side is an A.C.A. service station with a motel. We are now on RN 234. Once more the mountains

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tourist center. On the way you have glimpses of the north side of Volcán Calbuco, 2019 m high. This full day trip can be booked through Catedral Turismo. In my opinion this is one of the highlights of a visit to the Lakes Region. Returning to Argentina you may go via Paso Puyehue which is also a very scenic trip. See also the companion volume Travel Companion Chile and Easter Island, “Region X de los Lagos” • Puerto Pañuelo and Puerto Blest (by boat), Puerto Alegre by bus, Puerto Frías by launch, and Cascada de los Cántaros: Full day trip • San Martín de los Andes: Departs 08:00 • Villa La Angostura and Osorno in Chile: 8 hours one-way • Seven-lakes trip, taking in Río Limay, Valle Encantado, Lago Traful, Lago Correntoso, Villa La Angostura, and Paso Coihue: 8 hours Walking tours • Cerro Campanario: Starting point is the chair lift at KM 17.7 Avenida Bustillo. There are scenic views over Lago Nahuel Huapi and Bariloche. The chair lift runs daily 09:00–12:00 and 14:00–18:00 • Llao Llao, Colonia Suiza, Cerro Catedral, and return to Bariloche: Full day trip • Llao Llao, Colonia Suiza, Punto Panoramico, and around Lago Moreno • Rubber raft tour from Bariloche down the Río Limay to Confluencia, stopping for lunch at Valle Encantado: 9 hours. Runs from mid-November to mid-April • Cerro Otto: For a do-it-yourself trip, take a Transportes Tres de Mayo bus from the corner of Perito Moreno and Sargento Rolando. The cable car station is on Avenida de los Pioneros, 5 km from the city center. This is a steep two-hour walk uphill. Eight hundred meters up there is the station for the cable-car, which ascends to 1400 m. On top of the mountain there is a restaurant with a rotating viewing platform • Isla Victoria: For a do-it-yourself one-day tour, take a Transporte Tres

El Bolsón and Lago Puelo: Departs 08:00 Puerto Montt in Chile via Paso de Pérez Rosales :This is a fascinating trip through some of the most picturesque lake region on either side of the border. The trip starts with a bus ride from Bariloche to Puerto Pañuelo. At Puerto Pañuelo a modern cruise ship brings you through the Brazo Puerto Blest (Puerto Blest Cove) of Lago Nahuel Huapi to Puerto Blest. As the cruise ship enters Brazo Puerto Blest the mountains close in, and this narrow stretch of water with the towering mountains on either side resembles more a fiord. At Puerto Blest you disembark again and there is a short bus ride to Lago Frías. Approaching Lago Frías the mountains open up a bit to make room for the lake. Lago Frías is at an altitude of 980 m and it can get quite cold here even in summer. On the west side of Lago Frías is the Argentine passport control. Here you board a Chilean bus which brings you over the Paso de Pérez Rosales, elevation 1022 m, to Peulla on Lago Todos Los Santos in Chile. The scenery over the pass is superb. The bus driver will stop on a few occasions so you can take pictures of the scenery; at one stage you have a marvellous view into a valley which is dominated by glaciated Cerro Tronador, 3460 m. At Peulla is the modern Hotel Peulla with excellent facilities. Here is also the Chilean passport control. After a short stay another cruise ship brings you across Lago Todos Los Santos to Petrohué. The lake is dominated by majestic Volcán Osorno 2652 m which is always in view. At Petrohué another bus awaits you to bring you to your destination: either to the port city of Puerto Montt or to Puerto Varas on Lago Llanquihué. The trip between Peulla and Puerto Varas is also very scenic. From Puella to Ensenada the 15 km road is built on the slopes of Volcán Osorno, passing many lava fields from previous volcanic eruptions. From Ensenada onwards the road follows the shores of Lago Llanquihué to Puerto Varas, a major

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PATAGONIA de Mayo bus from the corner of Moreno and Rolando, departing 08:00 for Puerto Pañuelo. The boat leaves Puerto Pañuelo 10:30 Mountain walks There are a number of refugios, from which beautiful mountain walks may be made. Below are just a few of them. • Refugio Cerro López: Take a Colonia Suiza bus and alight at Puente Arroyo López. The trail starts on the left-hand side of the Arroyo López and follows the stream. You pass a waterfall and reach the refugio in about two hours’ walk. From the refugio there is a walking trail to Pico Turista at 2050 m past a small tarn; the lake is an hour’s walk, and Pico Turista a further hour and a half’s walk. There is a road up to Cerro López, and from the car park it is a short and easy walk to the mountain hut. The hut is at 1600 m and can accommodate 100 guests. There is also a small restaurant. The trails are marked red or orange • Refugio Emilio Frey @ 424818: Located in the Cerro Catedral massif on the shore of Laguna Tonchek. It is operated by Club Andino Bariloche. Take a bus from Bariloche to the base of Cerro Catedral, and from there the cable car to the summit. From the summit along the trail marked in blue and red it is a short, easy walk. The mountain hut is at 1700 m and has room for 40 people, and there is a restaurant. From here various peaks may be scaled. Walking from the base takes about three and a half hours, but taking the cable car cuts the time down to two hours. Open all year • Refugio Knapp @ 460010. Located on Cerro Catedral, altitude 1050 m. Operated by Club Andino Bariloche, open all year • Refugio Neumeyer, also referred to as Refugio Challhuaco: Valle de Chall-Huaco @ 428995; operated by Club Andino Bariloche. The turnoff to the refugio is to the left, 6 km south of Bariloche on RN 258. This is a gravel road following for most of the way the Arroyo Challhuaco. This trail can be used by small vehicles and is about 14 km long, crossing four Bariloche

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bridges. At the third bridge the Arroyo Challhuaco turns south. The mountain hut is at 1250 m and is in a forested area. It can accommodate 60 tourists and has a small restaurant; it is open from early December to the end of April, depending on the weather. From the hut you can make several walks; all are easy, but the best views are from Mirador. To Laguna Verde it is an hour’s walk. Mountain guides are available from the hut Hostel Pampa Linda: During the summer season buses make the trip daily along the 86 km road from Bariloche. The hostel and camping grounds are located in the Valle Vuriloche. For 50 km the road is narrow and made of gravel. It is one-way to all the way to Hostel Pampa Linda at 1300 m, and is open to outward traffic from 15:00. The hostel has accommodation for 150 persons, and dining room facilities for 60. Pampa Linda is the starting point for many wonderful hikes as well as for the trek up to Refugio Meiling, the Paso de las Nubes (“Cloud Pass”), Las Ñalcas waterfall, Glaciar Tronador, and Hostel Los Ventisqueros Hostel Los Ventisqueros: Located at 1050 m at the foot of Cerro Tronador in the upper Río Manso valley. The starting point is 10 km further down at Pampa Linda. The hostel is open from early November until mid-April. This is the starting point for climbing Cerro Argentino and Cerro Chileno, and hikes to Glaciar Negro, source of the Río Manso, Cascada Río Blanco, and Garganta del Diablo (“Devil’s Gorge”) in the Tronador area. A more extensive two-day hike may be made to the Puerto Blest–Lago Frías tourist complex, but it should only be attempted by experienced hikers. From Puerto Blest you can return by ferry to Puerto Pañuelo and thence to Bariloche Refugio Otto Meiling: The trail to this mountain shelter starts from Pampa Linda. If you intend to make a more extensive mountain hike (say to Paso de las Nubes) check with the national parks information service at the

RÍO NEGRO room. Refugio Otto Meiling is the starting point for climbs in the Cerro Tronador massif. At the base of the face of Glaciar Castaño Overo there is a small waterfall which is the source of the Arroyo Overo. Likewise the Glaciar Alerce has several waterfalls at its base which form the source of the Arroyo Alerce. This is marvelous hiking country but not without its danger

camping site, located at about 2000 m between the Alerce and Castaño Overo glaciers. At first the trail passes through a forested area where you follow the white arrows. Once you leave the forest behind there are red circles painted on the rocks. Do not take any short cuts! From Pampa Linda it is a 14 km easy climb taking about four and a half hours. The hut is open from early December to the end of April and caters for 60 people. There is also a small café and dining

CATRIEL

Catriel Population: 16 000 Postal code: 8307 @ area code: (0299) Altitude: 400 m Distance from Neuquén: 150 km north on RN 151

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atriel is located on the west bank of the Río Colorado in the northern part of the province some 20 km south of Dique Punto Unido.

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The settlement was founded in 1899, helped by a friendly Indian Chief by the name of Cipriano Catriel. Nearby oil was found.

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A Tourist information •

Oficina Municipal de Turismo, Ave. San Martín 59 @ 451136/59 fax

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Restaurant La Farola, Ave. San Martín 388 Restaurant La Llegada, Ave. Las Américas 48 Restaurant La Unión, Ave. San Martín 673. Parrilla Pizzería Diógenes, Ave. San Martín 474 Cafetería Kaluka, Ave. San Martín 549. Dancing

C Accommodation in Catriel Hotels * * *

Hotel Catriel, Av. San Martín near Cipriano Catriel AELPV Hotel Gran Palace, Dinanmarca 370 AELPV Hotel Gran Petróleo, La Pampa 647 AELPV @

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4911204

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2 2 2 2 2 2 2

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4911424

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Hostería La Posada del Río Colorado, Ave. Mosconi 1035 Fax 49121