Argentina (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

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Author: Nigel Hicks | Linda Whitwam

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CÓRDOBA AND THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST

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PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO

SAN TELMO AND LA BOCA

PLAZA SAN MARTÍN AND RETIRO

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PALERMO AND BELGRANO

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

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Brightly painted houses in La Boca, Buenos Aires

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INTRODUCING ARGENTINA

DISCOVERING ARGENTINA 89 PUTTING ARGENTINA ON THE MAP 1011 A PORTRAIT OF ARGENTINA 1239 ARGENTINA THROUGH THE YEAR 4045 THE HISTORY OF ARGENTINA 4655

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BUENOS AIRES • Historical architecture of Casa Mínima • Dining in Palermo • Boating in the Paraná Delta

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Brightly painted walls in La Boca

ARGENTINIAN MESOPOTAMIA

A lively gaucho festival filled with equestrian activity

• Magnificent Iguazú Falls • Gualeguaychú’s carnival • Fly-fishing on the Paraná • Wildlife of Esteros del Iberá

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Couple dancing the tango on a signboard, La Boca, Buenos Aires

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*(:/ *967: :<*/ (: .,5,;0*(33@ LAND AND CONSERVATION $/, ():,5*, 6- /<4(5 :,;;3,4,5; 05 46+0-0,+ :6@( (5+ ;6)(**6 /(=, 4(5@ (9,(: (5+ ;/, ()<5+(5*, 6- 9,73(*,+ ;/, 8<056( (5+ .9,,5 :7(*,: 4(2,: 9.,5;05( 05 ;/(;79,63<4)0(5-(94,9:73(5;,+ 9 . , 5 ; 0 5 ( : . 9 6 > 0 5 . 4(5@ >(@: ( 5(;<9(3 7(9(+0:, 05+<:;90(3 :,*;69 /(: (3:6 $/, !(47(: .9(::3(5+: /(+ ( +,=(:;(;05. 047(*; :7033,5+3,::3@(96<5+;/, 65 5(;<9, (;0=, -369( *(70;(3 *0;@ >/03, :<) (5+ -(<5( (9, <5+,9 ;9670*(3 -69,:;: */(9(* ;/9,(;+<,;6;/,/@+96 ; , 9 0 A , 9 . , 5 ; 0 5 0 ( 5 ,3,*;90* 7961,*;: 65 ;/, , : 6 7 6 ; ( 4 0 ( $ / , %9<.<(@ (5+ !(9(5E 5+,(5 69;/>,:;6--,9: 90=,9: (5+ ;/, -69,:;9@ +,,79(=05,:>,(;/,9,+)@ 7961,*;: 05 0:065,: (5+ >05+(5+9(05(5+!(;(.650( $0,99(+,3<,.6$/,'693+ ;/9033: =0:0;69: >0;/ 0;: Visitors’ center logo, Parque Nacional Chaco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

The stunning red rocks of Parque Provincial Ischigualasto, a UNESCO World Heritage Site

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;/09+ 3(9.,:; :6<9*, 6- ;/, *6<5;9@: 05*64, 6>,=,9 76=,9;@ /(: 90:,5 :05*, ;/, : (5+ *904, (5+ :,*<90;@ >699@ 46:; 9.,5;050(5: (: +6,:;/,B)9(05+9(05D-;,9;/, )(5205.+0:(:;,94(5@6-9.,5;05(: ;(3,5;,+ @6<5. 7,673, 3,-; ;/, *6<5;9@(5+4(5@/(=,:;(@,+(>(@ +,:70;, ;/, .9(+<(3 04796=,4,5; 05 (--(09:)(*2/64, POLITICS

69 ;/, 4(1690;@ 6- 9.,5;050(5: 7630;0*: /(: ;/96>5 <7 469, +9(4( (5++(4(.,;/(5;/,>69:;;90(3:(5+ Gaucho on an estancia near El Calafate, Patagonia ;90)<3(;065: 6- ;/, ,*6564@ '/03, ;/,9, /(=, (3>(@: ),,5 ECONOMY $/, 9.,5;050(5 ,*6564@ /(: 7630;0*(34030;(9@ +0*;(;69: 05 ,?7,90,5*,+:,=,9(3)664:(5+4,3; 9.,5;05( (346:; (33 9.,5;050(5: +6>5: 05 ;/, 7(:; (5+ 9.,5;050(5: =0,> ;/, .,5,9(3: >/6 9(5 ;/, /(=, (3>(@: 2,7; ( *36:, >(;*/ 65 *6<5;9@ +<905. ;/, C 7,906+ ,*65640* -3<*;<(;065: 5 ;/, 3(;, (: ;@9(5;: 6>,=,9 5(;065(3 7630;0*: : 653@ ( -,> @,(9: (-;,9 ;/, :05*, ;/, 4030;(9@ +0*;(;69:/07 /(: 9,;<956-+,46*9(*@05-3(;065:6(9,+ ),,5 9,3(;0=,3@ :;()3, (5+ 7,(*,-<3 ;6 7,9*,5; <905. ;/, 79,:0 (5+>/03,+,46*9(*@/(:)96<./;0;: +,5*@6-(936:,5,405;/, : 6>5:,;6-796)3,4:-699.,5;050(5: 9.,5;050(5: ;/6<./; ( 5,> ,9( /(+ -,> >6<3+ ,?*/(5., ;6+(@: ,3,*;,+ ),,5<:/,9,+05;/,7,:6>(:7,..,+ 3,(+,9:-69;/,+0*;(;69:6-;/,7(:; $6+(@;/,*6<5;9@:.6=,954,5;0: ;6;/,+633(9*9,+0;>(:(=(03()3,(5+ 7,673, >,9, ()3, ;6 (--69+ (33 205+: ( 9,79,:,5;(;0=,+,46*9(;0* -,+,9(3 6-3(:79,7(9,+-69 (5+ 79,:0+,5;0(3 65, >/,9,05 ;/, >/(; /(77,5,+ 05 ,*,4),9 79,:0+,5; 0: ;/, /,(+ 6- :;(;, (5+ >/,5(9<565;/,)(52:*(<:,+;/, /,(+ 6- .6=,954,5; *6473,4,5;,+ .6=,954,5;;6:,8<,: )@(4<3;07(9;@:@:;,4 $/,*6<5;9@0:+0=0+,+ ;,9790=(;,:(=05.:(5+ ,=,5;<(33@ 3,+ ;6 ;/, 05;6 ( -,+,9(3 *(70;(3 *633(7:, 6- ;/, 7,:6 (5+ 796=05*,: ;/, $6+(@ (: ;/, *6<5;9@ -,+,9(3 .6=,954,5; 0: ,?7,90,5*,: ( 46+ /,(+,+ )@ ;/, 79,:0 ,9(;,,*65640*9,=0=(3 +,5;(5+;/,)0*(4,9(3 *65-0+,5*,0:.9(+<(33@ 5(;065(3 *65.9,:: (5+ 9,;<9505. $/, *6<5;9@ ;/,796=05*,:)@.6=,9 0:;/,;/09+3(9.,:;),,- 569:-;,9>05505.;/, ,?769;,9 05 ;/, >693+ 767<3(9 =6;, 05 ;/, ( - ; , 9 9 ( A 0 3 ( 5 + *;6),9 ,3,*;065: <:;9(30( (5+ ;/, -0-;/ 9.,5;05(: 09:; (+@ 3(9.,:; >05,796+<*,9 90:;05( ,95(5+,A +, 05 ;/, >693+ $6<90:4 Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner during 09*/5,9 ),*(4, ;/, the presidential elections 0:-36<90:/05.(5+0:;/, 79,:0+,5;6-9.,5;05(

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SPORTS AND ARTS

7,*39.3&.8<*11&-*&)4+49-*7&9.3 2*7.(&3 (4:397.*8 .3 9*728 4+ 85479.3, 574<*88 &3) &79.89.( (7*&9.; .9>9.8&<471)(1&883&9.43.384((*7 &3) 8*;*7&1 49-*7 854798 .3(1:).3, 9*33.8,41+5414&3)-4(0*>99-*

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Lionel Messi playing against the Mexico team

Argentinian pop band Miranda at a performance

<-*39-*'&3)":.*3*7.87*(47)*) &39.*89&'1.8-2*39 843,8 .3 9-* 2.)89 4 + 9 - * 2 . 1 . 9 & 7 > ) . ( 9 & 9 4 7 8 - . 5 39*73&9.43&1 (7.9.(8 4+9*3 54.39 4:9 9-&99-*7*.89-74:,-9-*.3+1:*3(*4+ 9&3,4&2*1&3(-41>.3&117,*39.3.&3 2:8.( %-.1* ;*7> +*< 7,*39.3.&38 &(9:&11>)&3(*949-*+&24:87->9-2 :7'&3.9*8 *3/4> &7148 &7)*1 9-* .3, 748'>4+7,*39.3.&39&3,4 +9*7 9-* -*&)> )&>8 4+ 9-* &9.3 2*7.(&3 '442 ):7.3, 9-* 2.))1* 4+ 9-* 9- (*39:7> +*< 7,*39.3.&3 <7.9*78-&;*<43.39*73&9.43&1&((1&.2 47 2&3> 9-* <4708 4+ 47,* :.8 47,*8 &3) :1.4 479@?&7 7*2&.3 9-* '*3(-2&708 '> <-.(- &11 1.9*7&9:7* 2:89 '* 2*&8:7*) 43*9-*1*88 7,*39.3.&38 &7* &;.) 7*&)*78 9-* &33:&1*7.&)*.'74.3:*348.7*8 &997&(98 -:,* &:).*3(*8 &3) 9-* 5:' 1.8-.3,4+3*<'4408'>(439*2547&7> <7.9*788:(-&83&&7B&"-:& &'14 )*"&39.8&3)#42@814>&79B3*?&7* 2&/47*;*398.39-*(:19:7&1(&1*3)&7 .3*2& .8 545:1&7 .3 9-* (4:397> 39-*1&89+*<>*&78&3*<8(-4414+ (.3*2& ;*7.9A -&8 )*;*145*) <-.(- &8 <*11 &8 8(445.3, :5 57.?*8 .3 57*89.,.4:8.39*73&9.43&1+.12+*89.;&18 -&8,.;*39-*(4:397>&7*,.89*7<.9- <-.(-94)*'&9*84(.&17*&1.9.*8.39-* 5489 )*24(7&9.(5*7.4)

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PEOPLE AND SOCIETY

3&9.43 4+ .22.,7&398 8.3(* 9-* 9- (*39:7> 7,*39.3& .8 94)&> & (:19:7&1 2*19.3, 549 (4257.8.3, 5*451* 4+ 9&1.&3 "5&3.8- *<.8- &3) 7*3(- &3(*897> :*348 .7*88 +1&2'4>&39 (43+.)*39 7*8.)*398 9-* 5479*C48 *3/4> 2&3> 4+ 9-* 8&2* 1:=:7.*8 &3) 8:++*7 9-* 8&2* 897*88*8 &8 9-* 7*8.)*398 4+ &3> 2&/47 <471) (.9> #-*.7(.9>&184-&8(*79&.3:3.6:* (-&7&(9*7.89.(84+.984<38:(-&89-* *3):7.3, 2*14)7&2& 4+ 9&3,4 9-* '442.3, ,&8974342.( 8(*3* &3) 9-* .38423.&( 3.,-91.+* 479*C48 4+9*3 7*+*7 94 9-*.7 7.3, 74&) ;*3.)& *3*7&1 &?&8.+.9<*7*842*0.3) 4++7439.*7&3)9-*1*8897&;*1*):7'&3 <470.3, (1&88*8 &7* <439 94 .2&,.3* 9-* 574;.3(.&1 -*&791&3) &8 & 842* <-&9 :39&2*) .25*3*97&'1* &3) *=49.(5*7.5-*7> 4<*;*79-48*<-4)4;*39:7*4:9 4+9-*(.9>1.2.98&7*4+9*3(-&72*)'> 9-*2>7.&)51*&8:7*84+9-*.39*7.473 9-* 82&11 94<38 4+ .8.43*8 -&(4 &3) 477.*39*8 ;.11&,* 1.+* ,4*8 43 2:(- &8 .9 -&8 )43* +47 >*&78 <.9-14(&18,&9-*7.3,&99-*'&7.39-* 51&?&&3)9-*>*&774:3)7->9-284+ <470 &3) +&2.1> 1.+* '740*3 431> '> 2&/47 +.*89&8 3 9-* 3)*&3 51&.38 4+ 9-* 479-<*89 ;*89.,*8 4+

A brightly painted café in Caminito, La Boca

57*41:2'.&3 1.+* 89.11 7*2&.3 <.9- 3&9.;*7*8.)*398&3)2*89.?485*451* 4+ 2.=*) :745*&3 &3) .3).,*34:8 &3(*897> 89.11 51&>.3, 9-* 5&35.5*8 &3) +1:9*8 &3) <*&7.3, 543(-48 &7 84:9- .3 &9&,43.& ;.8.9478 <.11 '* 8:757.8*) 94 2**9 )*8(*3)&398 4+ %*18-&3)*72&38*991*78 3*88*39.&1'43-42.*&3)?*89+47 1.+* -&;* &1<&>8 *3):7*) .3 9-* 7,*39.3.&3 84:1 47 9-* ;.8.947 .9 .8 *&8> 94 *3/4> 9-* *3)*&7.3, 6:&1.9.*8 4+9-.8(4147+:1&3)9-7.11.3,3&9.43.98 &':3)&39 <.1)1.+* ;&89 1&3)8(&5*8 &3)+7.*3)1>5*451*

An indigenous ceremony taking place in the Neuquén province

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*85.9*9-7*&9894.98*3;.7432*39 7,*39.3&89.117*2&.3843*4+9-*7.(-*89 (4:397.*8.39-*<471)+47.98;&7.*9>4+ +147&&3)+&:3&9-&84;*7 85*(.*84+'.7)82&3>4+<-.(-&7* :3.6:*949-*(4:397> 857&<1.3, 3&9.43&15&708&3)&1&7,*3:2'*74+574;.3 (.&157*8*7;*89-&95749*(9&+&8(.3&9.3,&77&>4+ 2&22&1894<*8.983&9:7&1<*&19-94&-.,-1> ;&7.*)9454,7&5->9-&9(4;*78&7&3,*4+ (1.2&9.(?43*87&3,.3,+742&7.)-&78- *3;.7432*398)42.3&9*)'>89*55*8&19 A colorful 5&38&3)84&7.3,3)*&35*&0894,7*&9 8<&9-*84+,7&88>51&.38&3)<*91&3)8 flamingo

THE PAMPAS WETLANDS !*&843&17&.3+&11&(74889-*&25&8.3 :*348.7*8&3)397* C481*&)8949-*+47 2&9.434+9-*(-&33*18&3);&891&,44384+ 89*748)*1'*7A0""--8 9.8-42*94 <&)*78&3)2&3>49-*7'.7)85*(.*8 The wattled jacana4&1%&10 %2$"#""10""*01,4)(,+ 41"/1!&+1&)501/&!"0 ,3"/)&)5-!0+!&0 !&0 /""14!"/2+1&)&1 #)&"0+!#)0%"0&10/&$%1 5")),42+!"/4&+$0

The dorado &0(&+$ ,#;,/+:8** 5 +,4+#,/&10 -,4"/&1&01%"-/&6" 1 %,#+$)"/0&+ 1%"+,/1%"01 Yacaré 1%/&3"&+1%""/:4"1)+!00%/&+$1%" +(0+!&0)+!04&1% -5/0+! %,4)"/*,+("50

View of Mount Fitz Roy in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

MOUNTAINS AND PUNA 94;*7+9 2&'4;*8*&1*;*1 9-* -2+2439&3*,7&881&3)8.37,*39.3&8 3479-<*89*73574;.3(*8.8&2.=9:7*4+8*2. &7.)&3))*8*791&3)8(&5*83.98<*89*73 *),*.97.8*894'*(42*9-*3)*87&3,* The Andean condor %0

4&+$0-+,#,3"/ #1 *1 +"0""+ 4%"")&+$,+1%" 1%"/*)01%1#,/* &+1%" /"300"0 +!)$,,+0,#1%"+!"0 The Royal chinchilla &0 /,!"+1#,2+!&+1%"%&$% -)&+02+1"!#,/&10#2/&1 &0+"+!+$"/"!0-" &"0

The Cardón cactus $/,40

&+2+!+ " /,00 1%"+,/1%4"01+!&0-/, 1" 1"!&+0&!"/.2" &,+),0/!,+"0 &+1%"))"0) %.2&"0 /"8**5

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THE ATLANTIC COAST "-*7:,,*)(4&891.3*'*9<**3:*348.7*8&3) &5*473897*9(-*84;*7 2.1*802 "-*(41)(:77*3984+9-*!4:9-91&39.(&7*9-* 3&9:7&1-&'.9&94+!4:9-*73 .,-9<-&1*88*&18&3) 8*&1.438&118**3&9*3C38:1&$&1)B80""-- 8 ++8-47*5*97*18&3)&1'&97488*85&97419-*<&;*8 Magellanic penguins/" ,**,+ 0&$%1),+$1%"1$,+&+ ,01%" ,+1&+"+10)/$"01 ,),+5&0#,2+!1 2+1,*,&+%2218**5

The Southern Right whale"/+"!&10+*"

01%"7/&$%194%)"#,/%2+1"/01,(&)) " 20"&1#),10#1"/"&+$%/-,,+"! 1&0+,4-/,1" 1"!&+/$"+1&+&+41"/0

SUBTROPICAL FORESTS !.?*&'1*5749*(9*)8:'9745.(&1+47*898(&3 '*+4:3).3.8.43*8477.*39*8&3)!&19& 147&+14:7.8-*8'*3*&9-9-*)*38*(&345> 9-*247*7*249*+47*898574;.)*&-&'.9&9+47 7&7*85*(.*88:(-&8-&75>*&,1*8&3)/&,:&78

PATAGONIA *89034<3+47.98;&898*2.&7.)89*55*8 &3),1&(.*78&9&,43.&&184-&8+47*8983*&7 9-*3)*8&3)7.(-2&7.3*<.1)*73*88*8&143, .98(4&89%.1)1.+*.3(1:)*87&7*85*(.*88:(- &89-*%2"*2)&3)2.3.&9:7*-2!< )**7

The ceibo &0 /*&+"/"!+1&3" /,/")),,* !,-1"!0/$"+1&+0 +1&,+)#),4"/

The myrtle tree &0#,2+!)) /,00+,/1%"/+1$,+&1 &03"/01&)"-)+14&1% 4/*#4+ ,),/

The Toco toucan&0

/2 ,20#,/"01 0-" &"00""+1 !4+,/!20(#)&11&+$ /,001%" +,-5&+/.2" &,+) $26< 8**55 @

The Magellanic woodpecker

&0)/$"$/"$/&,20&/! "0&)50-,11"!&+/.2" &,+)&"//!")2"$,&+ 0%2& 8**5

The jaguar &01%")/$"01#")&+"

The huemul%0""+

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A shop in Jujuy selling an array of indigenous handicrafts

INDIGENOUS PEOPLES '8/#5+7'53+$'43'.#+/50 %0.1#3'&505*' &0:'/40(4+:'#$-'+/&+)'/064)30614#55*'5+.' 0(5*'1#/+4*%0/26'45"*+-'.04545+---+7'+/ 363#-%0..6/+5+'45*')308+/)+.107'3+4*.'/50( 5*'+3-#/&4*#7'(03%'&.#/950.+)3#5'50%+5+'4 The Mapuche $23(, 3$#3.-4,!$1

%.1,3'$ ".4-3182+ 1&$23(-#(&$ -.42".,,4-(38.23 .%3'$,+(5$(-3'$ /1.5(-"$.%$404:-

Mapuche traditional clothing %0/4+4540(

*#/&807'/10/%*04 #/&-'#5*'3$'-54

The Guaraní2/$ * + -&4 &$.%

3'$2 ,$- ,$ -# 1$,.23+8 ".-"$-31 3$#(-(2(.-$2/1.5(-"$ (-3'$-.13'.%1&$-3(- '$1$ 1$ //1.7(, 3$+8 4 1 -;2(-3'$".4-318

The Colla".,,4-(38(23'$

, (-(-#(&$-.42&1.4/(-4)48 /1.5(-"$6(3' -$23(, 3$# /./4+ 3(.-.% '$(1 ,.3'$13.-&4$(24$"'4 -# 3'$8 1$% ,.42%.13'$(1".+.1 %4+' -#, #$"+.3'$2

The Tehuelche6$1$.-"$ -

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Largest mosque in South America, the King Fahd Mosque, Buenos Aires

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26

A r g E n T I n A

Argentinian Tango Tango has its roots in the bars and bordellos that sprung up around Buenos Aires at the turn of the 20th century. From the cultural melting-pot of European immigrants and Africans, a vibrant music and dance form evolved. While early tango was played on flute, violin, and guitar, musicians soon adopted the bandoneón (button accordion) for its rhythmic energy and melancholic strains. Tango boomed in Argentina and in Europe in the early 1900s, but declined during the Perón years. A recent revival has taken place, and a new tango music scene is emerging inspired mainly by touring tango shows.

Final of the Tango Metropolitan Championship in Buenos Aires

TAngo on The sTreeTs

The age-old tradition of practicing tango on the streets is kept up by professional street performers who don retro gear and show off their flicks and kicks to locals and tourists in calle Florida, Sam Telmo, and La Boca. is usually stiff, locked in a close embrace in traditional Argentinian tango. The upper body

The crowd is usually encouraged to join in and try a few steps with the dancers.

involves complicated movements and is flexible, quick, and exquisitely choreographed. Footwork

Tango postures often suggest that the man is the

stiff central focus and the woman the subjugated outer flourish of the performance. However, it is in most respects a dance of equals. La milonga has come to mean a gathering

where people listen to tango music and dance. Locals and tourists flock to milongas that are scattered through the capital. On some evenings shows are put on in which audience participation is encouraged. Fantasia or show tango is full of clever twirls,

exaggerated kicks, and aerial flights of fancy. This is in contrast to the milonga style, in which the feet cling to the floor. Fantasia gained popularity during the tango revival in the 1980s.

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TAngo in PoPulAr CulTure

Buenos Aires is sometimes called a “tangopolis” or tango city. Music plays on taxi drivers’ radios, grafitti is on the walls, and even films about contemporary issues often include a track of old tango to conjure up the capital city’s ineffable melancholy.

Tango in street art is popular and seen in murals and graffiti decorating walls all over Buenos Aires, including this brightly colored relief in the La Boca area.

Tango in film was first used in

Rudolph Valentino’s The Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse in 1921 to suggest illicit passion. Tango in pop art is usually portrayed as a colorful and vibrant social experience by Argentinian painters, despite the seeming sobri ety of the music. This atmospheric work, La Milonga 2 was painted in 2004 by Diego Manuel Rodriguez.

The BesT oF TAngo

Tangueros (tango fans) all have their own halls of fame. Yet everyone accepts that Carlos gardel was an inspirational pioneer and that Ástor Piazzolla was the last great revolutionary to pick up a baton and lead tango down a new path. Bandoneón legend Aníbal Troilo and singer roberto goyeneche are up there in the pantheon too.

Carlos gardel was an

enormously popular tango singer during the early 1900s. His death in an airplane crash at the height of his career created an image of a tragic hero. For many music fans, Gardel embodies the soul of Argentinian tango.

Adriana Varela, with her smoky

voice, is a popular contemporary tango singer. She is also outspoken about her leftwing leanings.

Ástor Pantaleón Piazzolla is

considered the most important tango composer of the late 20th century. His compositions revolu tionized traditional tango by adding elements of modern jazz. Juan Carlos Copes is widely

recognized as the greatest dancer of the modern age. He is famed for his performances in the 1980s show Tango Argentino.

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A r g e n t I n A

Music and Dance Rock nacional, pop, and tango dominate in the country’s capital and other urban areas, where middle-class Argentinians stress their fondness for these genres, while cumbia and other Latin rhythms are popular among the working classes. Folk music, known in Castellano as folklore, enjoys greater popularity in rural parts. Chacarera and zamba, both dance and musical forms, are popular in the Pampas and Andean high plains respectively, while from the Mesopotamian provinces comes the lively fusion of chamame.

Mapuche women playing traditional ceremonial music

Folklore

Built on the rhythms of pre-Columbian indigenous music, folklore exhibits old World influences and has adopted the guitar as a key instrument. It is an umbrella term for the music that combines traditional indigenous elements with the structures or instrumentation of european folk. Zamba is not to be confused

with its homonym, samba. The Argentinian zamba is an elegant courting dance during which couples tease and taunt each other using a white handkerchief. Lyrics cover all subjects, from love and the countryside to passionate political protest. Andean music is synonymous with the

sound of pan pipes, charango guitars, and flutes, while lyrics praise Pachamama (Earth Mother). Jaime Torres is the country’s best-known charango virtuoso. Chamame is a fusion of German schottis,

Guaraní ethnic music, Brazilian forms, and Spanish rhythms and has a notably subtropical feel. Leading exponents include Chango Spasiuk.

UrbAn rhythMs

In Argentina’s major cities there is access to a healthy mix of various genres of music ranging from Western classical and rock to hip hop, pop, and trance. urbanites love to listen, and to dance, to tango, marcha, cumbia, cuarteto, pop-influenced folklore, and different kinds of rhythms that reflect Latin American and traditional indigenous influences.

Argentinian cumbia was originally derived from Colombian cumbia. The term used to refer to songs dealing with love and jealousy set to a tinny beat, but in the late 1990s a scene called cumbia villera (shanty town) emerged. Well-known bands include Damas Gratis (right) and Yerba Brava.

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Chacarera is played on the guitar, violin,

and bombo legüero (drum), and sometimes with an accordion. It is an upbeat country rhythm with a dance akin to a line-dance with couples moving in and out of the embrace position. Los Chalchaleros are the best-known performers of this popular genre.

La Nueva Canción is a pan-national movement that

emerged in the wake of the successful Cuban Revolution, when Latin American songwriters began to compose protest songs. Argentina’s Mercedes Sosa was an early pioneer and over a span of 30 years has become the best known exponent of the style.

Bombo legüero, an Andean skin drum

A siku, pan pipe made of bamboo

Quena, a traditional six-hole bamboo flute

Folklore instruments such as the pan

flute and quena are the essentials of Andean music, and are often combined with the charango and violin. Mapuche folk musicians have their own distinctive instruments, including the trutruka (horn) and kultrun (hide-drum).

MApUche MUsic Although recordings of the musical traditions of the now extinct tehuelche, Diaguita, and Querandies cultures are difficult to find, there is still a living Mapuche tradition in Argentina. Artists such as Beatriz Pichi Malen perform songs in the Mapuche tongue, Mapundungun, and incorporate native Mapuche singer instruments and ancient Beatriz pichi Malen poetry into their compositions. Mapuche music springs from a tradition of living in close and harmonious contact with nature. Unlike most Western music, it is not codified or written but based on natural melodic patterns and ancestral rhythms that are transmitted orally. Mapuche music influences their poetry, dance, dramatic representations, empirical medicine as well as religious beliefs.

Rock nacional started in Buenos Aires and Rosario in the

1960s. Although initially incorporating many British rock influences, musicians later explored local musical roots and created a distinctive sound. Santa Fe-born León Gieco (left) is a well-loved veteran performer of folk rock music. pop and fusion thrive in Argentina, as young people are able to explore international musicians as well as listen to major local bands such as Divididos and Bersuit Vergarabat. Soda Stereo, led by Gustavo Cerati (right), is the most successful band to emerge in Argentina in the past 30 years.

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SECULAR ART

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Iglesia y Convento San Francisco

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Truncated dome on the mansard roof

Beaux-arts grandeur of Correo Central

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Ersatz Swiss buildings in Bariloche

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Argentinian thoroughbred Invasor trains for the Breeders’ Cup Classic, Kentucky

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A colorful mural of the popular Boca Juniors football team

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CLUB ATLETICO BOCA JUNIORS (Est.1905) Stadium: La Bombonera Capacity 60,000 CLUB ATLETICO RIVER PLATE (Est.1901) Stadium: Monumetal Capacity: 66,545 CLUB VÉLEZ SARSFIELD (Est.1910) Stadium: José Amalfitani Capacity: 49,540 CLUB SAN LORENZO DE ALMAGRO (Est.1908) Stadium: Nuevo Gasómetro Capacity: 43,500 CLUB ATLETICO INDEPENDIENTE (Est.1903) Stadium: Libertadores de América Capacity: 52,823 RACING CLUB (Est.1930) Stadium: Presidente Perón Capacity: 55,000

River Plate’s striker Gonzalo Higuain celebrating after scoring a goal in a First Division match

CLUB NEWELLS OLD BOYS (Est.1903) Stadium: El Coloso del Parque Capacity: 42,000

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WORLD CUP FACTS The Argentinian national squad has won two World Cups – in 1978, when they hosted the event and beat Holland, and in 1986 against West Germany. Both victories have been plagued by controversy: in the former it has been claimed that the then military dictatorship paid for Argentina to win against Peru in the semi-finals; in the latter, Argentina beat England 2–1 in the quarter finals where the first goal was a handball by Diego Maradona. The second goal was a spectacular one-man display, also by Maradona, that shattered England’s defence. The team was runners-up in the first tournament, held in 1930 in Uruguay, and in 1990 in Italy.

The Argentinian squad

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Flowers in full bloom during spring in Patagonia

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An indigenous music band performing on Día de la Raza

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Performers dressed in colorful costumes at Carnaval, Gualeguaychú

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Meat barbecued during the Año Nuevo celebration

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Buenos Aires military parade celebrates Día de la Revolución de Mayo

Display of contemporary artwork at ArteBA, Buenos Aires

MAY Día del Trabajo $

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$?/89=3<3+3> -/6/,<+>/=>2/+C$/@96?>398 90 A23-2?6>37+>/6C6/. >938./:/8./8-/8?/89= 32/79<8381+8. :/9:6/=>9:+>+0E&9<>983 ! 09<+-900//+8. =8+-58>2//@/8381 +-293<:/<09<7=:+><39>3- =981=+>>2/-3>C-+>2/.<+6

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Día de la Memoria

/79<3+6+C+< Día de las Malvinas

+6@38+=)+<(/>/<+8= +C988/+:< Día del Trabajo+,9< +C+C

JUNE +-<9==<1/8>38+&23=.+C -977/79<+>/=>2/./+>2 +883@/<=+9< 90>2/-9?8>398+606+1 &2/A23>/+8.=5C,6?/ 06+13=293=>/.+8. >2/8+>398+6+8>2/7=?81 +-<9==>2/8+>398 JULY Día de la Independencia # +-<9==<1/8>38+/== 37:9<>+8>>2+8F+./6+ $/@96?-3G8./+C9>23=3= >2/.+CA2/806+1=+92989<>2/><99:=>2+> 9?=>/.%:+83=2-98><96 Festival Nacional del Poncho

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People praying in church on Día de San Cayetano

Día de la Revolución de Mayo+C$/@96?>398

+C+C Día de la Bandera6+1

Día de San Cayetano #

+C <.9890?8

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Día de la Independencia

Fiesta Nacional de la Nieve

#+<369-2/&23= =89A0/=>3@+653-5=900A3>2 :+<+./==53<+-/=+8.+ >9<-263>./=-/8>90/<<9 +>/.<+6>38-6?./=>2/ /6/->39890+ +>398+6%89A #?//8>92/<+6.>2/+<<3@+6 90>2/=/+=98==89A

8./:/8./8-/+C ?6 Día del Libertador General San Martín

/8/<+6%+8+<>F8= +C <.9890?1 Día de la Raza96?7,?= +C988/+!-> Inmaculada Concepción de la Virgen María

77+-?6+>/98-/:>398 +C/- Noche Buena2<3=>7+= @//- Navidad2<3=>7+= +C/- Fin de Año /-

World Tango Championship

#?/89=3+8>+88?+6 1+>2/<38190=5366/..+8-/<= -9?:6/=A29.98>2/3<,/=> +8.-97:/>/+>+666/@/6= =+90>2/0/=>3@3>3/=

Día del Libertador General San Martín # +-<9==

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AUGUST La Rural #$%#?/89= 3?<+6 0+3<A3>2:<3D/,?66=-+>>6/ =2//:+8.:31=.3=:6+C/. :<9?.6C,C,2/38>/<39<:<9@38-/= +?-29=.+DD6/>2/3<+?.3 /8-/=A3>2.+<381/;?/=><3+8 =>?8>=8C/+<=69-+6 099.+8.9<1+83-:<9.?-/ 2+=,//81+3838137:9<>+8-/ +>>23=63@/6C/@/8>&+5381 :6+-/9@/<>22/ 0+3<3=+>>/8./.,C9@/< 7366398:/9:6/+@93.@3=3>381 >2/=29A9@/<>2/A//5/8. 30:9==3,6/

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS Año Nuevo /A*/+<= +C+8 Jueves Santo+?8.C &2?<=.+C+<:< Viernes Santo99. <3.+C+<:<

WINTER

Día de la Bandera

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Couple participating in the World Tango Championship, Buenos Aires

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ABRA PAMPA CLIMATE ZONES Arid Andean high plains: warm, dry, rainy in the north.

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°C/F

Arid mountains: sunny, warm, wet summers, cold winters.

19/66

Cold and wet: cold, snowy winters, windy spring.

02/36

21/70 20/68 15/59 07/45 02/36

12

-7/19 13

Tropical Serrano: long winters, windy, heavy storms.

hrs

hrs

09

Subtropical: very hot, humid summers, mild winters.

mm month Apr

Jul

Oct

11

11

hrs

hrs

00

17

80

mm

mm mm Jan

Mild semi-arid: mild summers, severe winters in parts.

/FVRVÏO

Temperate Serrano: hot summers, seasonal rainfall. Arid Patagonia: cool summers, cold winters, frequent storms.

MENDOZA °C/F

#BSJMPDIF 25/77 31/88

22/72

11/52 14/57 11/52

18/64

02/36 11

10

13

14

hrs

hrs

hrs

hrs 30

12

07

21

mm

mm

mm mm

Month Apr

Jul

Oct

Jan

BARILOCHE °C/F 21/70 13/55

13/55

08/46 05/41 02/36 01/34 02/36

Glaciar Perito Moreno in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

11

9

10

10

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hrs

hrs

hrs

61

144

41

26

mm

mm

mm mm

Month Apr

Jul

Oct

Jan

Patagonia ) )+%%/)+$$() - *#&%/) %&&#% *)

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SAN SALVADOR DE JUJUY °C/F Iguazú )+$

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23/73

# $*- *%& ()- %*()

18/64 11/52 12/54

12/54 04/39

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11

10

12

13

hrs

hrs

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43

06

40

mm

mm

mm mm

Month Apr

Jul

Oct

BUENOS AIRES

$ØSEPCB

°C/F 22/72

#VFOPT "JSFT

RESISTENCIA °C/F

29/84

11/52

21/70 14/57

17/63

10/50

Jan

33/91 28/82 21/70 21/70 16/61 16/61 15/59 11/52

05/41

4BO$BSMPT EF#PMÓWBS

11

10

13

14

11

10

12

13

hrs

hrs

hrs

hrs

hrs

hrs

hrs

hrs

90

59

97

93

174

50

121 176

mm

mm

mm mm

mm

mm

mm mm

Month Apr

Jul

Oct

Month Apr

Jul

Oct

Jan

Jan

CÓRDOBA °C/F 31/88

30/86

26/79 19/66

18/64 13/55

12/54 06/43

SAN CARLOS DE BOLÍVAR °C/F 30/86 23/73

22/72

11/52

15/59 13/55 16/61

Average monthly maximum temperature Average monthly minimum temperature

11

10

12

14

hrs

hrs

hrs

hrs

Average daily hours of sunshine

122

Average monthly rainfall

52

13

66

mm

mm

mm mm

Month Apr

Jul

Oct

Jan

04/39 11

10

12

14

hrs

hrs

hrs

hrs

102

44

110 128

mm

mm

mm mm

Month Apr

Jul

Oct

0 km 0 miles

Jan

300 300

A sunny summer day at Parque 3 de Febrero, Buenos Aires

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"$ $("! " ! %" " ! "!""% ! !"# " !'"" ""# ' !"#' &"%"!' #!""!"" !!#"#" '!$ !"!$""'"'"!' #!" $ ' *'7#45#3'#/08,/08/#4 SPANISH SETTLEMENT 3+'( '91-03#5+0/4 +/50 5*' 3)'/5+/# 8#4 3'-#5+7'-: 3')+0/ 8'3' .#&' +/ 5*' 41#34'-: 1016-#5'& 6/5+- '#3-: 4$:5*'1#/+4* 5*' 1'3+0& 0( 6301'#/ #/& 0356)6'4' $65 5*' %0-0/+;#5+0/ +/ 5*' 5* (+345 4'3+064 #55'.15 $: %'/563:*'.045&'/4'-: 6301'#/4 #5 4'55-+/) 1016-#5'& #3'#4 8'3' 5*' 3)'/5+/# %#.' +/ '40105#.+#/ /035*'#45 #/& /&'#/ 035*8'45 / 1#/+4* '91-03'3 '&30 &' 5*' (03.'3 5*' 4'.+ Group of Tehuelche people '/&0;# 4#+-'& +/50 5*' from Patagonia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TIMELINE

AD 1520 '3&+/#/&#)'--#/

10,000 BC +345*6.#/

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15,000 BC

AD 1 5000 BC +345(#3.+/)

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AD 500

AD 1000

AD 1500

AD 1516 1#/+4*'91'&+5+0/-#/&4+/<0&'-#-#5#'456#3: AD 1536 '/&0;#(06/&44'55-'.'/50/$#/,40(<0&'-#-#5#

An 18th-century artwork depicting European explorers consorting with indigenous tribes in Argentina

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16th-century engraving showing the nascent settlement of Buenos Aires on the banks of Río de la Plata

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5 :/, 3(:, :/ *,5:;8? "7(05 :/8,(:,5,+ )? 68:;.;,9, (4)0:0659 05:/,8,.0658,5,=,+,--68:9:69,::3, ,(9:,85 8.,5:05( (5+ 05 (5 ,>7,+0:065(8?-68*,8,,9:()309/,+:/, 768:6-;,56908,96=,<,805(5 ,4708, :/(: *6<,:,+ .63+ (5+ 903<,8 :/, 5,= 768: 6--,8,+ 5,0:/,8 (5+ -68 +,*(+,9 0: 3(5.;09/,+ (9 ( *63650(3 )(*2=(:,8 8697,80:? *(4, 05 :/, :/ *,5:;8? =0:/ :/, 94;..305. 6- 903<,8 -864 $77,8 ,8; (5+ :/,5 :/, (77,(8(5*, 6- 8.,5:05(9 -089: ,9:(5*0(9 8(5*/,9 A :/, -,= *(::3, 3,-: ),/05+ )? ,5+6@(9 ()68:,+ ,>7,+0:065 /(+ 4;3:0730,+ 05:6 :/6; 9(5+965:/,-,8:03, (47(9 7(8: -864 *659630+(:05. :/,08 ,4708,"7(0594(05(04=(9(396:6 978,(+!64(5 (:/630*094,9;0:93,+ :/, ,--68: -6;5+05. 9,<,8(3 40990659 -864 65=(8+9>,47:-864:(> (:065 :/, 40990659 +,<,367,+ 3;*8(:0<, 73(5:(:0659 6- ?,8)( 4(:, ;9,+-6805-;90659(5+:6)(**6

TIMELINE 1595"(3,6--80*(5 93(<,9),.05905 ;,569 08,9

1553–82 >7,+0:0659

,9:()309/:6=5905 :/,568:/=,9:(5+ ;?6(8,(

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1670

#

# " # ! ' ! #

),:=,,5 4,:86763, (5+ *63650,9 &0:/ "7(509/ 9/079 ;5()3, :6 8,(*/ :/,<0*,86?(3:?033,.(3:8(+,=0:/565 "7(509/ 4,8*/(5:9 .8,= 78647:05. 05*8,(905. *(339 -864 *8063369 -68 ( 3669,505.6-86=5:0,9::/,9(4, :04, :/, +,-,(: 6- 05<(+05. 80:09/ :86679 05 (5+ )? ;,569 08,9 4030:0( -68*,9 05*8,(9,+ :/, *(70:(39 *65-0+,5*, 05 0:9 ()030:? :6 9:(5+(365, END OF COLONIAL RULE

#/, 6<,8:/86= 6- 6;8)65 "7(05 )? (763,659 8(5*, 05 786<62,+ (-05(3*633(79,0586=5(;:/680:?5 Detail, Fortuny’s Congress of Tucumán, The Declaration of Independence of Argentina from Spain in 1816 :/, !,<63;*0E5+,(?6*8063369 9:8077,+:/,"7(509/%0*,86?6-6--0*, 6- (5 05+,7,5+,5: 8.,5:05( );: 05 (-:,8 (5 (84,+ 9:8;..3, 3,+ =0:/05(?,(8-0./:05./(+8,*644,5 )? ,5,8(3 69C +, "(5 (8:D5 :/, *,+ #/, 9:8;..3, -05(33? ,5+,+ 05 $50:,+ 86<05*,9 6- :/, !0<,8 3(:, =0:/:/,9;88,5+,86-(337630:0*(3 8.,5:05(9+08,*:-68,8;55,8+,*3(8,+ 76=,8:6;(5(5;,3+,!69(9 05+,7,5+,5*, 5:/,086=57;9/-68 THE ROSAS DICTATORSHIP 9,7(8(:065 $77,8 ,8;(5+ (8(.;(? ),*(4, 05+,7,5+,5: 8(:/,8 :/(5 ,+,8(309: )? *65<,50,5*, !69(9 /(+ 8,4(057(8:6-:/,-684,8<0*,86?(3:? ),*64,.6<,85686-;,56908,905 ,970:,05+,7,5+,5*,30::3,7630:0*(3 "/(805. :/, $50:(809:9 ),30,- 05 /(8465? ,>09:,+ (465. :/, 5,= (9:865.*,5:8(3.6<,854,5:/,:8(59 *6;5:8?9+0--,8,5:786<05*,90<03=(8 -684,+/09;,56908,98,.04,05:6( )862, 6;: ),:=,,5 $50:(809:9 +, -(*:6 5(:065(3 .6<,854,5: =0:/ ;8)(50:,9 =/6 96;./: :6 4(05:(05 /,.,4650*76=,86<,8:/,6:/,8786< ;,56908,99(;:/680:?6<,8:/,!0<,8 05*,9 099,5:=(9903,5*,+)?*,5968 3(:,8,.065(5+,+,8(309:9 9/07(5+8,78,99065)?:/, " !69(99 7630:0*(3 8;8(309:9 =/6 +,908,+ ( 7630*, ? :/, ,5+ 6- /09 +,*,5:8(30@,+ 5(:065(3 8;3, :/, *6;5:8? =(9 (5 .6<,854,5: =0:/ .8,(:,8 0963(:,+ (5+ ,*65640*(33? 786<05*0(3 (;:6564? &(8 )(*2=(8+*6;5:8?09)8; 8(<(.,+:/,*6;5:8?-68:=6 +,*(+,9(5+3,+:6:/,809, :(30:?/(+/6=,<,8-68.,+ 5(:065(3 ;50:? A $50:(809:9 6- 786<05*0(3 (5+ ,+,8(309:9 ;50:,+ :6 9:865.4,5 =/6 3,+ 4030:0( 6<,8:/86= /04 05 (: -68*,9 05:6 )(::3, (.(059: 65:, (9,869 =/0*/ :/,*(70:(35

(7(;9, (336=,+ -68 ( 7,806+ 6- 05 /69:030:0,9 9(= $50:(809: , 8 5 ( 8 + 0 5 6 ! 0 < ( + ( < 0 ( The 1852 Batalla de Monte 8,-684 (5+ :/, *8,(:065 6- ),*64, :/, -089: 78,90+,5: Caseros by Penuti & Bernheim (-;5*:06505.;50-0,+9:(:, !! 1710 1713&(8

1768"7(509/ 86=568+,89 ,>7;390656- ,9;0:9

1750 1752;,56908,9

1776%0*,86?(3:?6-

1826 !0<(+(<0(),*64,9-089:

78,90+,5:6-8.,5:05(

1816 65.8,996-#;*;4B5

+,*3(8,95+,7,5+,5*, 1790

1806–1807;,569

6-"7(509/ 68.(50@,94030:0(:6 08,94030:0((84? :/, !D6+,3( 3(:, ";**,99065 *6;5:,85(:0<, ,9:()309/,+;,569 :=0*,+,-,(:980:09/ ,5+9 05<(9065-68*,9 767;3(:065:/8,(: 08,95(4,+*(70:(3

1830 1816"(5

(8:D5+,-,(:9 "7(509/(: (::3,6-(07F

1835–52

!69(9+0*:( :689/07

% # ! &

#

%

Battle of Tuyutí depicting the bloody Triple Alliance War in 1866, by 19th-century artist Cándido López

THE ARGENTINIAN BOOM

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

A 19th-century painting showing the grand Teatro Colón in Buenos Aires

=:78.*6 -.5*6- +=24< 6=5.:7=; ;1..8:*6,1.;?774.@87:<;26,:.*;.- <.6/74- +..;<5.6<<:*-. *6- 25520:*<276 [email protected] #*24:7*-; +=24< +A<1.:2<2;14263.-:=:*4*:.*; <7=.67;2:.;*6-7<1.:87:<,2<2.; :*26 /*:5260 *6- :*6,1260 <=:6.- 26<7 /*+=47=; ;=,,.;;.; ?2<1 :0.6<26* +.,75260 <1. ?7:4-; 8:2 5*:A ,.:.*4 .@87:<.: *6- <1. ;.,76- 4*:0.;< 5.*< .@87:<.: ":7;8.:22+:*6< *6- 6=5.:7=; 2<; 6.? +=24-260; ;=,1 *; <1. %.*<:7 74H6 ?.:.576=5.6<;<78:70:.;; %1. +775 17?.>.: ?*; /:*024. *6- 26<.::=8<.- +A * ;.>.:. /26*6,2*4 ,:2;2;26 <1*<,*=;.-<1.,744*8;. 7/<1.:0.6<262*6,=::.6,A":70:.;; *4;7 12- 5*6A 8:7+4.5; ?.*4<1 ?*; 877:4A -2;<:2+=<.- *6- 26<.:27: 8:7 >26,.; 1*- +.,75. 26,:.*;2604A

TIMELINE 1865–70(*:7/<1.%:284. 442*6,. 82<; :0.6<26*:*B24*6-&:=0=*A *0*26;<"*:*0=*A

1860

1870

1878–79 769=.;<7/<1..;.:<,*58*206.6-;

26-20.67=;:.;2;<*6,.*,:7;;<1."*58*;*6-"*<*0762* 1880=.67;2:.;+.,75.; .-.:*4 *82<*4

1880 18772:;<;1285.6<

1862*:<7475E 2<:..4.,<.-/2:;< 8:.;2-.6<7/<1. :0.6<262*6#.8=+42,

7//:7B.6+..//:75 :0.6<26*<7=:78.

1890 189026*6,2*4

,:2;2;4.*-;<7<1. #.>74=<2767/

190

00

% $ % ! # ) ! #

%

84201<*6-<1.2:87<.6<2*4 *; * ;7,2*4 *6- 8742<2,*4 /7:,.?.6<=6:.,7062B.- =6<24 <1. .5.:0.6,. 7/ *6 7+;,=:. *: 5A 0.6.:*4 =*6 752607 ".:H6 ?17 ?.6< 76 <7 +.,75.76.7/<1.57;< 26/4=.6<2*4 /20=:.; 26 :0.6<262*612;<7:A

-2;<*673.- =8:2;260; *6- -.5*6-; /7: 0: .*<.: 8742<2,*4 :.8:.;.6<*<276 6 <1. 6.?4A /7:5.- &62H6 F>2,* #*-2,*4 #*-2,*4 " * : < A ? 7 6 8 7 ? . : 5*:3260 <1. *->.6< 7/ 878=4*: 8742<2,; */<.: * ,.6<=:A7/.42<.:=4.

THE RISE OF PERÓN

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ilitary vanguards in the capital city during the 1930s coup 1912 %1. $D.6B".G*

*?26<:7-=,.;=62 >.:;*45*4.;=//:*0.

1910 1916 #*-2,*4"*:
6*<276*4.4.,<276;

1919(..34760 +477-A :.8:.;;2767/;<:23260 ?7:3.:;.*:6;<1. 62,36*5. $.5*6* %:D02,*%:*02,(..3

1920

1930 :0.6<26*;/2:;<5242<*:A,7=8 1943 $.,76-5242<*:A,7=8 7>.:<1:7?;,76;.:>*<2>.:.025.

1930

1940 1939–44 :0.6<26*

:.5*26;6.=<:*4/7:5=,1 7/(7:4-(*:

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

Eva Duarte with Juan Perón in 1945

Juan Perón’s first presidential campaign

-(($)%#' -+",+/,(+ #'#,-+#'-"&#%#-+2 #--(+,"#)( -" +%2 ,/ .+- -#('-%2 %%/#-%#--%/ &(.,+#(-+,, 0"(,".&%(+#!#', !#'"+)().%+#-2 0#-"-"+!'-#'#' )()%)%2$2 +(%#'"#,/#-(+2

By becoming the champion ( -")((++

%,,,(+,,"%% -"&-"'(4&$/,4$'14 ,"#+-%,,(',' 0(+$#'!-()+(/# -"&0#-""(.,#'! (('.-#(' /#"+,(#%0% + (.'-#('/#- -+', (+&"+% +#-2,--.,-(.% -,#'-%#$,/#(+

TIMELINE 1946(3=0(.(&5('

23(4,'(05$0'.$60&+(4

:($3(&101/,&2.$0

ADDRESSING THE CROWD AT PLAZA DE MAYO (053$.515+((3=04+6*(2126.,45 $22($.8$45+(,3$%,.,5:51&1//60, &$5(8,5+$6',(0&(4013/1643$..,(4 <41/(06/%(3,0* <8(3( +(.',0.$;$'($:1,06(014 ,3(4,08+,&+%15+6$0(3=0$0' 7,5$816.'42($-',3(&5.:515+( 5+310*,0*&318'4)31/5+(%$.&10: 1)5+(23(4,'(05,$.2$.$&(

/+4'#'+# 19477,5$(/%$3-410 6312($0$,0%18 1634+(8,04 3*(05,0,$081/(05+( 3,*+551715(

1946

1949(3=0,4543(/17(&1045,565,10$. %$01023(4,'(05,$.3((.(&5,10

1948 .'+4' -$#'!-" )+,#'-#%(-"

19487$(3=0

160'$5,10(45$%.,4+(')13 5+(2113$0'+1/(.(44

1950 /#-&+$#'!-" (.+-"''#/+,+2( +4',!(/+'&'-

#

Trade union support (+&-"

(.'-#('( -"+4'#,-&(/&'- "2&,--('-+(%%' ',0+%-(+4'0"(,,--#'!( &#'#&.&0!,%+2#'+,, '--+0(+$#'!('#-#(',!.+' --"#+.'('#-#('%,.))(+-

The first 5-year economic plan #&)%

&'-2+4'#' )+(&(-(&, -##'.,-+#%#3-#(' '-"'-#('%#3-#(' ( 1#,-#'!#'.,-+#, .'+ (+#!'('-+(% Evita’s death +(&

'+#' - -"!( 0, ,/+%(0-(-" +4'#,-.,' '(.-)(.+#'!( '-#('%!+# "+ !+',-- .'+% 1-' (+(/+ (.+2,

Perón’s regime unraveled -+ "('(&20(+,'+) +,,#(''',(+,"#)#'+, '())(,#-#(')+-#,'-" -"(%#".+"0+--$'

+4'!/,)"-"+- '#'!#/#%0+!#',-"#,'&#, "&#%#-+2+-2(&#'! %32(' (+#'!+4' #'-( 2+1#%

%*.-/#-,!+/#'(%-&-+2 1951 2214,5,100(842$2(3 +',%316*+560'(3(3=0,45 &10531.7,5$%,'4)13214,5,101) !,&(3(4,'(05

1952 1952(3=08,04

3((.(&5,10,0).$5,10 3,4(4%:2(3&(05

1954"$7(1) 453,-(4$*$,045 *17(30/(05

19556$0(3=0

)13&(',051(9,.( ,0$3$*6$:

1954 1953(3=0.$60&+(44(&10' :($3

2.$03(23(44,101)5+(363$.&.$44(4 12214,5,102$35,(4$0'$5+1.,&&+63&+

+4'!#', 1#%

! & $ " ' ! $ ! & !

)3=2 ;1/8=38+ 38 -;3<3< =2/ UNDER PERÓN’S SHADOW 7 3 6 3 = + ; B 9 ? / ; = 2 ; / @ = 2 / #9<= ;1/8=38+,/-+7/ 19?/;87/8=38 +8.?3+ :96+;3C/. &2/ 7363=+;B =2/ 380+79>< #;9-/<9 ./ /A36/. #/;H8 +8. ,+88/. $/9;1+83C+-3H8 !+-398+6 3= #/;H83<7 0;97 =2/ :963=3-+6 >86/+<2/.>:98;1/8=38++ :;9-/<< &;+./ >8398< ;/318 90 ,;>=+63=B >8:;/-/ 29@/?/; ;/7+38/. 69B+6 =9 ./8=/. 38 3=< 23<=9;B /0= =2/ ./:9/;;366+ 09;-/< @/;/ @9;5/. =9@+;.< 7+5381 /63738+=/. 38 =2/ 380+79>< ;1/8=38+ >819?/;8+,6/ 38 >/;;+ %>-3+ 3;=B )+; 23< +,8=;B 8 Isabel Perón, Argentina’s @23-2 /A:69./. 38=9 + former Vice President -+7:+318 90 =/;;9; +1+38<=

@3=2 ;1/8=38+ 98 =2/ ,;385 90 +8+;-2B =2/ 7363=+;B =2/-3?363+8:9:>6+=398&29><+8.<90 <><:/-=/. /8/73/< 90 =2/ <=+=/ <+8-=398/.=2/;/=>;890#/;H8 D.3<+::/+;/.F =2/B @/;/ +;;/<=/. A SOCIETY AT WAR =+5/8 =9 -6+8./<=38/ -98-/8=;+=398 #/;H8< =23;. :;/<3./8=3+6 =/;7 ,/1+8 - + 7 : < = 9 ; = > ; / . + 8 . 5 3 6 6 / . 38 +73.<= <:3;+66381 1>/;;366+ &29><+8.< 79;/ @/;/ 09;-/. 38=9 +-=3?3=B +8. + #/;H83<= #+;=B <:63= /A36/ #;+-=3-+66B +66 .3<=29;3=+;3+8 ;/137/ 6/. ,B 23< -9>: &2/ ;/137/< 7+;5/= /-9897B (3-/ #;/<3./8= +8. =23;. @30/ <+,/6 2+. >8;+?/66/. >8./; 2312 3806+=398 #/;H8 <>--//./. 237 &2/ <=+=/ +8. >8/7:69B7/8= +8. 1/8/;+6 <:98<9;/. :+;+7363=+;B 09;-/ &;3:6/ <=;35/< +1+38 :+;+6BC/. =2/ -9>8=;B =+;1/=/.6/0=@381<>,?/;<3?/<+8. < =2/ .3-=+=9;<23:< +>=29;3=B +==2/<+7/=37/=2/7363=+;B/81+1/. -;>7,6/. 3= 7+./ + ./<:/;+=/ 38 9:/8 @+;0+;/ @3=2 1>/;;366+< &2/ +==/7:= =9 -6381 =9 :9@/; ,B /-9897B @/8= 38=9 0;//0+66 +8. +::/+6381 =9 8+=398+6 2989; 8 3806+=398 <>;:+<8-2/. +8 38?+<398 90 =2/ +656+8. <6+8.< <6+< +6?38+< <>,4/-= 90 + =/;;3=9;3+6 .3<:>=/ ,/=@//8 =2/ '83=/. 381.97 +8. ;1/8=38+<38-/ ;3=+38-9>8=/; 38?+./.+8.@3=238 .+B<3=<09;-/< 2+. 9?/;@2/67/. =2/3; ;1/8=383+8 -9>8=/;:+;=< =< :963=3-+6 <=+8.381 <2+==/;/. =2/ 7363=+;B ;/=>;8/. ;1/8=38+=9-3?363+8;>6/ DEMOCRACY AND DEFAULT

9669@381 8+=398+6 /6/-=398< =2/ $+.3-+6#+;=B@/;//8=;><=/.@3=2=2/ =+<5 90 ,;381381 ;/-98-363+=398 =9 + ./?+<=+=/. -9>8=;B 9@/?/; >8+,6/

Protest rally by women whose children disappeared during the armed forces’ Dirty War in the 1970s

TIMELINE

;/=>;8<=9 -3?363+8;>6/

1960

1973#/;H8 /6/-=/.09; +=23;.:;/ <3./8=3+6 =/;7

1970/0=@381 1>/;;366+1;9>: 53.8+:+8.5366 09;7/;:;/<3./8= #/.;9 ;+7,>;>

1958 ;1/8=38+

1965 1966 363=+;B

./-6+;/<+8/8.=9+66 -98<=3=>=398+6;>6/

1970 1974#/;H8.3/<%>--//./.

,B <+,/6#/;H8

1975

1976 363=+;B#;9-/<9./ $/9;1+83C+-3H8!+-398+6,/138< 1982 8?+<39890+656+8. <6+8.<<6+< +6?38+<./0/+=/.

1980 1977 9=2/;<90 =2/D.3<+::/+;/.F <=+;=<36/8=:;9=/<=

& % & " $ * " $ ! & !

An airlift taking place during the Falkland Islands (Islas Malvinas) war in 1982

@3=2 ;>79;< 90 ./0+>6= +8. ./?+6>+=398 += 0/?/; :938= ./ 6+ $I+ 37:9<+8.<=995=9=2/ <=;//=< ./7+8.381 =2/ 19?/;87/8=< ;/<318+=398 99=/;< <=9;7/. <29:< +8. 0>66<-+6/ ;39=< :;97:=/. 2/+?B 2+8./. :963-/ ;/:;/<<398 0=/; =@9 .+B<90-2+9<2+.6/0=./+../6+ $I+ ;/<318/. &2/;/ 09669@/. 09>; :;/<3./8=<38

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BUENOS AIRES AREA BY AREA

BUENOS AIRES AT A GLANCE 5859 PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO 6075 SAN TELMO AND LA BOCA 7685 PLAZA SAN MARTÍN AND RETIRO 8693 RECOLETA 94103 PALERMO AND BELGRANO 104117 SHOPPING IN BUENOS AIRES 118121 ENTERTAINMENT IN BUENOS AIRES 122125 BUENOS AIRES STREET FINDER 126131

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Historical Sites, Streets, and Plazas

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Casa Rosada Banco de la Nación Catedral Metropolitana For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp274–5 and p292

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The striking neoclassical façade of the Casa Rosada

Hipólito Yrigoyen 219. City Map 3 E5. Tel (011) 4344-3802 (info); (011) 4344-3804 (tours). 24, 28, 29, 152. Plaza de Mayo, Catedral. 10am–6pm Mon–Fri. 11am & 3pm Mon–Sat. www.museo.gov.ar

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PLAZA DE MAYO: A FLASHPOINT OF HISTORY =>2/=3>/90>2/7+38-96983+609<>+,+>>6/1<9?8..?<381 >2/ 8163=238@+=398=+8.+7//>381:6+-/09<:<9 8./:/8./8-/6/+./<=?/89= 337:9<>+8>:6+D+2+= 6981,//8+=>+1/09<>?<,?6/8> /@/8>=%2/"/
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Avenida Rivadavia 325. City Map 3 E5. Tel (011) 4347-6000. Plaza de Mayo, Catedral. 24, 28, 29, 74,111, 140, 152. 10am–3pm Mon–Fri. Museo Histórico y Numismático del Banco de la Nacion. Tel (011) 4347-6277. 10am–3pm Mon–Fri.

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Avenida Rivadavia, cnr San Martín. City Map 3 E5. Tel (011) 43312845. Plaza de Mayo, Catedral. 24, 29. 8am–7pm Mon–Fri, 9am–7:30pm Sat & Sun. church services. 9am, 11am, 12:30 pm, & 6pm Mon–Fri; 11am & 6pm Sat; 11am, noon, 1pm, & 6pm Sun. www.catedralbuenosaires.org.ar

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Avenida Rivadavia, cnr San Martín. City Map 3 E5. Tel (011) 43426729. Plaza de Mayo, Catedral. 24, 28, 29. 10:30am–5pm Tue–Fri, 11:30am–6pm Sun. 3pm Fri, 12:30pm, & 3:30pm Sun. Museo Histórico Nacional del Cabildo y de la Revolución de Mayo Tel (011) 4334-1782. same as the cabildo.

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Defensa 219. City Map 3 E5. Tel (011) 4343-2123. Plaza de Mayo, Catedral. 11am–7pm Mon–Fri, 3–7pm Sun. Wed free. www.museos.buenosaires.gov.ar/ ciudad.htm

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The Farmacia de la Estrella that houses the Museo de la Cuidad For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp274–5 and p292

Defensa 422. City Map 1 E1. Tel (011) 4331-1668. Bolívar. 3–7pm Mon–Fri. 12:30pm Mon–Fri, 7pm Sat, & 11am Sun.

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Perú 272. City Map 3 E5. Tel (011) 4342-9930. Plaza de Mayo. 3pm Mon–Fri; 3pm, 4:30pm, & 6pm Sat & Sun. www.manzanade lasluces.gov.ar Iglesia de San Ignacio Tel (011) 4331-2458. 8am–9pm daily. 3–6pm Sat & Sun. Colegio Nacional de Buenos Aires Tel (011) 4331-0733.

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The hallowed gates of the Colegio Nacional de Buenos Aires

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City Map 3 E5. Catedral, Florida, Perú. Museo Mitre San Martín 336. noon–6pm Mon–Fri. Museo de la Policia San Martín 353. Feb–Dec: 2–6pm Tue–Fri. Jan.

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FILETEADO /(9(*;,90A,+)@-3690+.(93(5+:(5+:*9633:6-)90./;*6369: 6-;,505*3<+05.;/,:2@)3<,(5+>/0;,/<,:6-;/,5(;065(3 -3(. 0:(767<3(9(9;-694;/(;0::;033:,,565;/, :0+,:6-<,56: 09,::*0;@ )<:,:"/, *6476:0;065::64,;04,: 05*3<+,;,?;:;(2,5-964 36*(3796=,9):(5+:(@05.: (55,+05;/,40+ : )@;/,4030;(9@.6=,954,5; >/679,-,99,+:;9(0./;305,: (5+90./;(5.3,:C7:@*/6 36.0*(3(5+6;/,9>0:,C 0;>,5;<5+,9.96<5+(5+ 0:56>(+409,+(:( A poster in fileteado style ;9<3@ 769;,I6(9;-694 displaying ornamental scrollwork

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The elegant corridors of the Correo Central

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Ave de Mayo 829. City Map 3 D5. Tel (011) 4342-4328. Piedras. 8−2am Mon−Sat, 8–1am Sun. 25 Dec & 1 Jan. Academia Nacional del Tango Avenida de Mayo 833. Tel (011) 4345-6967. 2:30–7:30pm Mon–Fri.

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A quiet evening outside the brightly lit Teatro Avenida

Avenida de Mayo 1222. City Map 3 D5. Tel (011) 4381-0662. Lima.

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A lively tango show at the landmark Café Tortoni For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp274–5 and p292

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Ave de Mayo 1370. City Map 3 D5. Tel (011) 4383-1065. Saenz Peña. 2–7pm Mon & Thu. www.pbarolo.com.ar/index.htm

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Hipólito Yrigoyen 1849. City Map 2 C5. Congreso. Palacio del Congreso Tel (011) 4010-3000. 11am & 4pm Mon, Tue, & Fri (guided tours only). www.congreso. gov.ar

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Inside the Cámara del Senado (Senate) of the Palacio del Congreso

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The imposing pillared façade and dome of the Palacio del Congreso

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City Map 3 D4. Carlos Pellegrini, 9 de Julio. 39, 59, 67.

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=8=1. 8>=<2-.=1.7*;;8@5*+B;27=1 %1.2698<270*;,12=.,=>;. ;0.7=272*7.@< 8/=1.2,;8,.7=;8 8/=1.+>25-270,892.< %1.6*072/2,.7= =1. BC*7=27. !+.52<,8-.<207.- 27/5>.7,.-<=B5.8/ +B ;0.7=272*7 =1,.7=>;B.;6*7 *;,12=.,=5+.;=8 .< =2<<=255 ";.+2<,1@*<.;.,=.-27 Libertad 815. City Map 3 D4. ?.;B6>,1*@8;4270 *,18/=1. Tel (011) 4815-8883. Tribunales. 687>6.7=;/*,.< =.695.*7--*25B 29, 39. Feb−Dec: 10am−8pm 255><=;*=.<*72698;=*7= <.;?2,.<*<@.55*< .?.7=27;0.7=27*< ;.0>5*;+*;62=C?*1<*7- Wed−Sun. Jan. 2pm Tue 12<=8;B=1./2;<=/8>7-* 6*;;2*0.,.;.6872.<*;. (Spanish only). www.teatro cervantes.gov.ar Museo del =2878/>.78< 2;.<27 1.5-1.;.%1.=.695. Instituto Nacional de Estudios =1.<.,87-68;. *5<818><.<272=< de Teatro Tel same as the theater. <>,,.<5/8>7-*=287 *-6272<=;*=2?.8//2,. Old Torah at 27 =1.,;.*=2878/ Museo Judio Museo Judío de Buenos noon–6pm Mon–Fri. same as the theater. Aires Dr. Salvador =1./.-.;*5,*92=*527 Kibrick@12,12<7*6.-*/=.; *7-=1./2;<=182<=270 %1.875BD7*=287*5F=1.*=.;=8 =1.6><.>67-.;%1. 8/=1.7*=287*5/5*027$*7 +.*;=1*=7*6.27=1.,8>7=;B -2<95*B<=.55=1.<=8;B8/=1. 2,85G<,1>;,1@12,187,. =1.%.*=;8 *,287*5.;?*7=.< <=88-*==1.<*6.<98= *;;2?*5*7-<.==5.6.7=8/ @*<87,.*0;*7-<=;>,=>;. ;0.7=27*<<2C*+5..@2<1 ,866>72=B=1;8>019*27=270< .*?B=;*//2,*7-9855>=287 1*<-2<,858;.-=1./*H*-.*7- ;.52028><*;=*7-*;=2/*,=< <>,1*<*5=*;,58=1<6.78;*1< 02?.7=1.8;7*=.,8;72,.<*7- See pp72–3. +*<;.52./<*7>7<201=5B+5*,4 <1..7 (.==1.+>25-270<=255 6*7*0.<=8269;.<25=27=1.$9*72<1*+<+>;0 69.;2*5<=B5.*7-=*4.<*,>. /;86=1.&72?.;<2=B275,*5G -..7*;.<27*-;2-@2=12=< "5*=.;.<:>..5.6.7=<* =1E Libertad 769. City Map 3 D4. =1,.7=>;B$9*72<1*;=/8;6 Tel (011) 4123-0102. Tribunales. ,1*;*,=.;2C.-+B6>,18;7* 29, 39, 109. 3−5:30pm Tue & 6.7=*=287%1.27=.;28;2< Thu. 8am & 7:45pm Mon–Fri. -.,8;*=.-@2=16*=.;2*5< Museo Judío de Buenos Aires Dr. 2698;=.-/;86$9*27 Salvador Kibrick Tel same as 27,5>-27062;;8;2<2=.=*9.<=;2.<*7- -;*9.7-*=287<=87./8;=12< %1.+>25-270@*<02?.7=8 +.*>=2/>5.@*<5*2- =1.,2=B+B$9*72<1*,=8; 27 +B=1.870;.0*,2L7 *;J*>.;;.;8*7-1.; View of the magnificent altar of the <;*.52=*-.5*;0.7=27* #%12<@*<*,866>72=B Templo de la Congregación Israelita 1><+*7-.;7*7-8J*C-.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp274–5 and p292

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The Palacio de Justicia, home to Argentina’s legal system

7=1. =1,.7=>;B=12<*;.* @*<<=2550;*<<.-8?.;*7- @*<9*;=8/=1.<>+>;+<8/ =1.8;2027*5,2=B27

=1. Nacional de Estudios de 6252=*;B><.-=1.<2=.=8+>25- Teatro@12,19;8?2-.<*+;2./ *@.*9877=8/=1.< +*;;*,498/ 92*712<=8;B27;0.7=27* 9;8=.<=.;<=8848?.;=1.5*7- =8<=*0.*-.687<=;*=287 *0*27<==1.9;.<2-.7,B8/ >*;.C.56*7*7-->;270 Bounded by Calles Tucuman & =1..7<>270+*==5.@2=1 Viamonte. City Map 3 D4. 08?.;76.7=/8;,.<8?.; Tribunales. 29, 39, 109. 9.895.@.;.4255.- ;8>7-=1.9;.<.7=-*B 878;270>*7*?*55.@18 D95*C*FE27/*,==1.;.*;. ,;8<<.-=1.7-.<@2=1=1. =1;..8=1.;*-3*,.7=95*C*25-270<27,5>-270=1. 5.*/B<9*,.2<*@.5,86. %.*=;885L7*7-=1.%.*=;8 ;./>0./;86=1.<>;;8>7-270 *,287*5.;?*7=.<*<@.55*< =;*//2,*7-<,>;;B270B8>70 =1.85-.<=.@2<1. 5*@B.;<87=1.2;@*B[email protected] =1.%.69582+.;=*-*7-=1. "*5*,28-.><=2,2*=1.<.*=8/ =1.2;8//2,.<*7-=1.7.*;+B =1. ;0.7=272*75.0*5;=<

A winding path through the leafy environs of the peaceful Plaza Lavalle

Talcahuano 550. City Map 3 D4. Tribunales. 29, 39, 109.

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View of the Teatro Colón entrance on Calle Cerrito

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%" #(&&'% ##%& ##+&'' #!!#' #(' $#$ #(& '& !# '% %""' " #$%#(&&% *#% !#(& For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp274–5 and pp292

STAR SIGHTS

Main Hall Soldi’s Paintings Façade on Libertad

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Libertad 621. City Map 3 D4. Tel (011) 4378-7344 (tickets), (011) 4378-7132 (guided tours). Tribunales. 29, 39, 59, 67, 115, 132. 11am–5pm Mon– Fri; later for performances. 11am & 3pm Mon–Fri; 9am, 11am, & 3pm Sat.

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The Sala Martín Coronado auditorium at Teatro General San Martín

Avenida Corrientes 1530. City Map 2 C4. Tel (0800) 333-5254, (011) 4374-1385 (guided tours). Uruguay. box office: 10am−10pm. noon Tue–Fri. www.teatrosanmartin.com.ar Centro Cultural San Martín Tel (011) 4374-1251. 7am– 10pm.

:.19.39-* 89-.8 89&9*8543847*)&798(4251*= :8*87*.3+47(*)(43(7*9*.3 9-*+:3(9.43&1'4=1.0*89>1* 545:1&7&99-*9.2*9-4:8*8 & 8*&99-*&9*79<4 82&11*79-*&9*78&(.3*2& &3)&5-494,7&5-,&11*7> #471)(1&88&3)945349(- 14(&19-*&9*7(425&3.*8&3) 2&/475-494,7&5-.(*=-.'. 9.438+.11&':8>8(-*):1* <-.1*9-*(.3*2&85*(.&1.?*8 .3&79-4:8*7*97485*(9.;*8 &3)8(7**38)&7.3,4+9*3 4'8(:7*&7(-.;&12&9*7.&1 !-*-:,*14''>.84+9*3,.;*3 4;*794+7**)&3(*8-4<8.3 9-**;*3.3,8&3).8&2**9.3, 51&(*+4789:)*398&3)&79 14;*78+742&114;*79-*(.9> ;*79-*5&89+*<)*(&)*8 ;*3.)&477.*39*8-&81489 2&3>4+.98'4408-458&3) .834143,*76:.9*9-* 74&)<&>4+:*348.7*8 .9:8*)94'*!-.89-74<8 .3948-&75*77*1.*+9-*.2547 9&3(*4+9-*!*&974 &3&79A3 &8&<*11+:3)*)(*3847+7** 2.1.*:+47(:99.3,*),*&79.898 !<4(425&3.*8@9-* 439*2547&7>&11*9&3)9-* :55*9**7874:5@&7* '&8*)5*72&3*391>&99-* 9-*&9*799-*7*&74+9-* 14''>.9.85488.'1*94<&10 9-74:,-949-*Centro Cultural

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Avenida Córdoba 1950. City Map 2 C4. Callao, Facultad de Medicina. Museo del Patrimonio Tel (011) 6319-1104. 7am–1pm.

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The vivid façade of the striking Palacio de las Aguas Corrientes

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp274–5 and p292

Sketch of ships arriving in Buenos Aires, Museo de la Inmigración

Avenida Antártida Argentina 1355. City Map 3 E3. Tel (011) 43170285. 106, 101. 10am−5pm Mon−Fri, 11am−6pm Sat & Sun. prior arrangement only.

5*3*).3 9-.82:8*:2 .8-4:8*).39-*+472*749*1 )* 32.,7&39*8&3)).851&>8 &(411*(9.434++.1285-494 ,7&5-8&3)49-*74'/*(98 7*1&9*)947,*39.3&8.22. ,7&39-.8947>39-*1&89 )*(&)*84+9-* 9-(*39:7> 9-*-49*1<&8&'4&7).3, -4:8*<-*7*9-*3*<1> &77.;*)(4:1)7*1&=,*9& 2*&1&3)2*).(.3*8&3) '*,.3942&0*(439&(9894,*9 <470.39-*(.9>4(&9*)43 9-*)4(08.)*.9<&8&<*1 (42*-42*&<&>+742-42* +479-*2&3>*(4342.(&3) 541.9.(&17*+:,**8@2&.31> +74284:9-<*89*73:745* ':9&184+7429-**;&39 :88.&&3)"07&.3*@<-4

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A family of black-necked swans, Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur

474;*7 >*&78:*794 &)*74<&81*+994)*(&> <.9-&34((&8.43&1+7.3,*&79 8-4<9&0.3,4;*743*4+9-* Avenida Tristán Achaval Rodríguez &'&3)43*)<&7*-4:8*83 1550. City Map 3 F4. Tel (011) 9-**&71> 89-*&7*&<&8 4893-1588. 99, 2. Apr−Oct: 7*':.19&3)3.,-9(1:'8&>&(-9 8am−6pm Tue−Sun; Nov−Mar: 8am− (1:'7*89&:7&398&3)&'4: 7pm Tue–Sun. Spanish only. 9.6:*-49*18443+4114<*) 3:,:89 :*794 39-* 89-*7*<&8&3 &)*74'*(&2*:*348 East of Microcentro. City Map 3 F5. &99*259947*(1&.29-*'4, .7*889-4++.(.&1'&77.4 &3) Tel (011) 4515-4600. 152, 111, 1&3)84+9-*7.;*78.)* .9.8:3.6:*&89-*431>3*.,- '47-44)<-*7*&119-*897**98 489&3*7& :7:8.3,9-*:9(- 109. www.puertomadero.com 541)*78>89*2<-.(-.3;41;*8 Buque Museo Fragata Presidente &7*3&2*)&+9*7<42*3 Sarmiento www.ara.mil.ar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uque Museo Fragata &99-**(414,.(&157*8*7;* &349-*75479@:*794:*;4 @<&8':.19&+*<2.1*83479- Presidente Sarmiento +472&11>7*(4,3.?*)&88:(-

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The elegant Puente de la Mujer bridge at the Puerto Madero docks

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Defensa 755. City Map 1 E1. Tel (011) 4361-3002. 24, 29, 130, 152. only guided tours. El Zanjón: 11am–2pm (hourly) Mon–Fri, 2–6pm (hourly) Sun; Casa Mínima: 10:30am & 3pm Mon–Fri (call in advance). www.elzanjon.com.ar

6*+84K83=+92/63@381 -98.3>398=90?<,+8<1/8 >383+8=-+8,/><+-/.09<9@/< >2?<3/=>3=+8/-6/->3- The balcony terrace of a lively café overlooking Plaza Dorrego 73B90+8 =0+G+./ >2 -/8>??>381= +8./@/896./<388/2/09<7/<03B>?37/=+<3@?6/> +8.03>>381=90>2/=/89A Corner Defensa and Humberto 1°. ./-+C381:<9:/<>3/=+<1+38= 589A8+=6*+84K8./ City Map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

>37/69?813819@/< !6+D+9<2/986C>2/0/A:6+-/=38>2/ 38.31/89?=+<-23>/->?<+6=>C6/ +,//<9<-900// -3>CA/+>2/<:/<73>>381 >9-97/9?>90?/89=3/.38>2/2/+<> >9=//3809<7+69:/8+3< >2/ =+?=+1/ 90>2/#+8$/679 ,+<<39>23==7+66 >+819.+8-38138 29?=/$2/=/+238 -9,,6/=>98/.:6+D+ A23-2>9?<3=>=+8. .A/66381=A3>2+8+<<9A A+=09<7/<6C>2/ 69-+6=:+<>3-3:+>/ 0<98>+1/+8.+-9<<3.9<>2+> =>+>39809<-+<<3+1/= $2/+-2/=+,9?>2+60+,69-5 Tango street +8.-+<>=:+==381 >37/=0//6635/+ .//:$2/+=+I837+A+= performers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eria de San Pedro Telmo

A23-2 -6+37=>9,/>2/96./=>38>2/ -3>C >3=3./+609<,<9A=381 +6>29?12=97/>37/=3>7+C 1/><+>2/<-<9A./. $2/29?=/=+<9?8.!6+D+ 9<2/8/312 ,9<381=>=A/2/ 297/=90:+><3-3+80+7363/= +8.7+8C90>2/+8>3;?/=98 The narrow frontage of the Casa Mínima

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p275 and pp292–3

# $

+8./88/>2/7,6/,9>2 -98>/7:9<+383+8 -98-/:>?+6+<>3=>=+/. 0:+<>3-? 6+<38>/+2/:+89 <+7+=,C>2//81<+@/< !97:/C9?.3@/<> +8.,/+?>30?67?<+6= ,C>2/+63-3+8,9<8 ?3= #/9+8/$2/ 7?=/?73=+6=9?=/. +=+@/8?/09<+@+8> The impressive Canto al Trabajo sculpture 1+<./7?=3-=29A= +8.=-/< 8+>398+60367=38-966+,9<+>398 A3>2 ?=/9./638/

Paseo Colon 800. City Map 1 E1. 24, 29, 126, 130, 152.

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Avenida San Juan 350. City Map 1 E2. Tel (011) 4361-1121. 29, 64, 86, 130, 152. Mar−Jan: 10am− 8pm Tue−Fri, 11am−8pm Sat & Sun. Feb. 5pm Tue, Wed, Fri, & Sun (Spanish only). www.aamamba. org.ar

9?=/.38+9,+--9 ./:9>+8.9:/8/.38 >2/?=/9./<>/9./<89 0/+>? 2+=89:/<7+8/8>-966/->398 ,?><9>+>/=+8?7,/<90 /B23,3>398=>2<9?12>2/C/+< $2/.3=:6+C=2+@/-98>+38/. 7389+8+==9<>7/8>90 :3/-/=,C+>3==/+633+8> :3/-/=,C6/+.381<1/8>383+8 +<>3=>=(?6#96+<+8./<83 $2/A9<5=90/98/<<+<3

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Defensa 1220. City Map 1 E2. Tel (011) 4361-2462. 29, 64, 86, 130, 152. 10am–7pm Tue–Fri, 11:30am–6:30pm Sat & Sun. www.museodelcine.gov.ar

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A promotional poster displayed at the Museo del Cine

FINDING A MILONGA $2/A9<. 3=:9==3,6C900<3-+89<3138+8.A236/ +66?.381>9+>C:/9063@/6C>+819,/+>+8.+-9?8>+< ,+=/.09651/8+6=99+=+6988312>38+>+819 -6?, %8635/09<7+6=29A=+8.-6+==/= +>29=/A292+@/+,+=3-589A6/.1/90>+819=>/:=$2/ ,+=3-2+>7/838@3>/A97/8>9.+8-/09<>2<+-5=+0>/2/:+<>8/<=89,9.C>+65= .?<381>2/.+8-/+8.986C>29=/A29589A29A>9>+819 1/>?:6>29?1263@/9<-2/=><+=+2/=/.+C=>2/2/-3>C$2/3./+6:6+-/>9=>+<> 38 #+8$/6793=>2//8><9?6>?<+6$9<;?+>9$+==9A23-2 29=>= 9@/<>2/A//5/8.$2/6?,<3-/6+8.+ &3++2/2>2/7+38/@/8>

Tango classes for beginners at Club Gricel

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(*054(2%4201, (87;,+, ,)8,85 =/0*/09( Corner Brasil and Defensa. City 3(.4,:-58:5;809:925*(2(4+ Map 1 E2. 10, 24, 29, 39, 64, 04:,84(:054(2 (87;,,@(3( 130, 152. Daily. 09(7;0,:*533;40:?(8,( =,22;9,+)?#(4$,235 (4?/09:580(49*2(03:/(: 8,90+,4:94:/,=,,1,4+9 :/096,(*,-;26(8109:/,201,2? ,96,*0(22?,2+,82?658:,H59 90:,=/,8, ,+85+,,4+5@( *(4),965::,+/,8,62(?04. 3(+,2(4+-(2204;,45908,9 */,99=/02,-(3020,960*40* 04 =/02,9(0204.;6 (4+?5;4.9:,8962(?*?*2, "G5+,2( 2(:( (4+91(:,(85;4+ 66590:,:/,6(8154:/, 354;3,4:04:/, *584,85-8(902(4+2308(4:, *584,85-:/,6(81 85=409:/,-(35;9Mural (:8(902(4+,-,49( 8,*58+9:/09,<,4:(9:/, Escenográfico Parque Lezama 4:/,656;2(8:8(+0:0545- A-089:-5;4+(:0545- (8:09:99;*/(94:5405,840 ;,45908,9C:/5;./ !;047;,2((8:G4(4+ ,4+5@(-(02,+:5 258,4*055204((3659 (*:;(22?,9:()209/(*0:? 0:*,2,)8(:,90*540**/(8(*:,89 ,:=,,4:/, :/(4+ 5-:/,:8(+0:054(2)(8805B:/, :/*,4:;80,9:/,2(4+ ),254.,+:5(4;3),85- :(4.5+(4*,8:/,-55:)(22 -(3020,9953,=0:/ 62(?,8:/,)(8805*56(4+ The striking sky-blue onion domes of the 80:09/*544,*:05494 :/,459?4,0./)58354. Iglesia Ortodoxa Rusa :/, 9:/,-(3,+ :/,=,22145=4-(*,9/,8,(8, 2(4+9*(6,(8*/0:,*: *8554,8(8259(8+,295**,8 59F8,.5805,@(3(/(+( 2,.,4+0,.5(8(+54((4+ );::54(**58+054<08:;595 680<(:,6(81(4+)5:(40*(2 4G)(2$85025 .(8+,492(0+5;:/,8,(4+ (87;,,@(3(095-:,4 3(4?5-:/,95(804. (4+ Brasil 315. City Map 1 E2. Tel (011) :/,<,4;,-5893(22*54*,8:9 6(23:8,,9+(:,-853:/09 4361-4274. 10 & 29. varies 6,805+ 4 /09,9:(:,952+ /59:,+)?25*(2)(4+9(9=,22 according to church itinerary. :/,2(4+:5:/,3;40*06(2 (9(=,,1,4+*8(-:9-(08 5pm & 8pm Sat, 10am & (;:/580:0,9(4+:/8,,?,(89 58.(40@,+)?(8:09(49=/0*/ 11:30am Sun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stroll through the Sunday crafts fair at Parque Lezama 04:/,,<,4:5-9:854..(2,9

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p275 and p292–3

# $

04*2;+04.:/, ,8I490,.5 (8(+54((4+5:/,8-55:)(22 9:(89*/;8*/2,(+,89(4+ ,<,4;,45908,9=(0:,89 $/,9,,2,3,4:9(8,:/85=4 04:5:/,+8(3(:;8.0*(23,2:04. 65::5*8,(:,=5819:/(:(8, =0::?(4+=02+);:=/0*/ (295-;4*:054(99,805;9 /09:580*(2*533,4:(80,9 #53,9/5=9(8,6,8-583,+ 5;:+5589;904.:/,(36/0 :/,(:,8(: (87;,,@(3();: :/,*536(4?9/,(+7;(8:,89 8,3(049(::/09*54<,8:,+ =(8,/5;9,=/,8,359:5- :/,0862(?9(8,6,8-583,+

Bells on display at the Museo Histórico Nacional

Defensa 1600. City Map 1 E2. Tel (011) 4307-1182. 10, 24, 29, 39, 64, 130, 152. Feb–Dec: 11am−5pm Tue & Fri, 3−6pm Sat, 2−6pm Sun. Jan. 3pm Sat & Sun (Spanish only).

:5022;9:8(:,:/,8,0.45-:/, F8549:/,95*0(2(4+,*5 4530*/5885895-:/, 9 58:/,358,8,*,4:-04(4*0(2 +09(9:,89:/(::/8,=:/, *5;4:8?04:5+09(88(?

La Boca. City Map 1 F3. 10, 24, 29, 64.

:099:02265990)2,:5*(:*/ <,9:0.,95-(5*(9+09 8,6;:()2,+5*190+,<0),54 :/099:8,,:3(042?,<0+,4:04 80.04(22?*(22,+;9,5 :/,.(809/-(E(+,9(4+-(+,+ Avenida Benito Perez Galdós 93. 09:I80*5+,2((60:(2 90.4954:/,9/56-854:9 ;9,509:I80*5(*054(2=(9 City Map 1 F3. Tel (011) 4300(4?5-:/,9,;9,+:5), 5707. 10, 24, 29, 64. *8,(:,+)?3(?588(4*09*5 )85:/,29(4++032?20:)(89 #,,),804 :09/5;9,+04 www.catalinasur.com.ar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

3,4:/(92,+:5(22, 85?(209:9(4+8,6;)20*(49 (25*(29:8,,:+(4*,=0:/855:9 ,*5*/,(9+,*204,:099:022 (40+,(262(*,/5=,<,8-58 04;,45908,99-80*(4 04(22?:/,:;8);2,4: :/ *,4:;8?09+5*;3,4:,+B:/09 *533;40:?(8,*5;62,+=0:/ *8096-8,9/2?)(1,+60@@((4+ 8,(954()2?680*,+),,8 0*540*8.,4:040(4-0.;8,9 =(9:/,6,805+=/,480<(2 -(*:0549-5;./:5<,8:/, 4,=2?04+,6,4+,4:4(:054 54(:0549-85320<04.8,2( :0<,95-03658:(4:-0.;8,9-853 :/, ",<52;*0I4+,(?5(4+ :/,&(895-8.,4:040(4 4+,6,4+,4*, 3(1, ;6359:5-:/,3;9,;39 ,>*,22,4:*522,*:054 4,5-:/,358,04:,8,9:04. ,>/0)0:909(9,80,95-6(04: 04.9+54,)?8.,4:040(4 6(04:,8(4+952+0,8D4+0+5 I6,@ 658:8(?04. 35<04.9*,4,9-853:/,=(8 (.(049: (8(.;(?04:/, 9 04=/0*//,(295-5;./: ++2?,45;./20::2,,29,09 *5<,8,+(4+:/,8,0945:/04. Raucous live performance at the Teatro Catalinas Sur

Houses painted in vibrant colors along El Caminito, La Boca

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! Ave Pedro de Mendoza 1835. City Map 1 F4. Tel (011) 4301-1080. 29, 33, 152. 10am−5:30pm Tue−Fri, 11am–5:30pm Sat & Sun. by prior arrangement.

$0-*=14,16/<0)<07=;-;<0- =;-7,--44);:<-;,)<-; *)+3<7 ?0-6.)57=; :/-6<161)6):<1;<-61<7 View of boats docked at La Vuelta de Rocha !=169=-4)):-:)&=-4<) 6)<176-;<18=4)<-,<0)<) 8:15):A;+0774)/)44-:A)6, ,- "7+0)$0-7:6-:1;) /:=**AA-<81+<=:-;9=-;=* )?7:3;078*-*=14<76<0- *)::177.)7+)<0)<+4)15; ;1<-$0-5=;-=5);;=5-,1<; <7*-<0-+:),4-7.<0- +=::-6<.7:516 ?0-6 ,)6+-<0)<;-,=+-, ):
):1;< 01;?)<-:+747:;)6, Ave Pedro de Mendoza, cnr 7.01;7148)16<16/;<7 )4;74)A;+4)15<7)6 Almirante Brown. City Map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Doctor del Valle Iberlucea y Avenida Don Pedro de Mendoza. City Map 1 F4. 29, 33, 152, 159.

Ave Pedro de Mendoza 1929. City Map 1 F4. Tel (011) 4303-0909. 29, 33, 152, 159, 168. 11am−7pm Tue−Sun. by prior arrangement. www.proa.org

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Display of wares at the crafts market at La Vuelta de Rocha

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p275 and pp292–3

# $

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Empty stands that fill to capacity for matches at La Bombonera

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Tel (011) 4309-4700. 29, 33, 152, 159, 168. 10am−6pm daily. restricted on match days. Museo de la Pasion Boquense Tel (011) 4362-1100. 10am–6pm daily. call to verify. www.museoboquense.com

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One of the colorful buildings flanking El Caminito

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Galerías Pacífico Edificio Kavanagh Palacio San Martín

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p276 and p293

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Ave Santa Fe 750. City Map 3 D3. Tel (011) 4311-1071. Retiro, San Martín. 61, 93, 99, 130, 152. 11am & 3pm Tue & Fri, 11am & 4pm Wed–Thu, 11am Sat. www.circulomilitar.org Museo de Armas de la Nación 1–7pm Mon–Fri.

7:5)44A6)5-, )4)+17 )B )6, )4)+17!-<1:7<0-G:+=47 141<):1;;1<=)<-,76<0-;7=<0 Monumento a los Caídos en Malvinas for soldiers lost in the Falklands War ?-;<-:6;1,-7. 4)B)")6 ):-:16/)847<7. 7>-: ;9514-;;935 576=5-6<; <1;47+)<-, <0-;<:=+<=:-?);*=14<*A 7887;1<- ):9=-")6):-:)4;84-6,1, 5-6<)4 ")4I67:),7 7+)<-,)<<0-.77<7.<0- 57,-4-,76<0- *)44:775;<773 /:);;A;478-<0)<4-),;=8 )447.1::7:;7. A-):;<7+7584-<- <7<0-*=;A 4)B)")6):16);1;)+-67<)805),- 8)4)+-?);
;75*-:*4)+35):*4- )+9=1:-,*A<0- ).<-: )B,1-, 84)9=-; 6;+:1*-,76<0-5 161;<:A7.7:-1/6 #0-)447.767: ):-<0-6)5-;7.<0- ..)1:;16 +7>-:-,16/14,-, :/-6<161)6;74,1-:;;-)5-6 #0-A=;-,1<.7: *:76B-)6,5):*4- )6,)1:5-6?0747;<<0-1: <0-1:0-),9=):<-:; 1;67?=;-,.7: 41>-;16<0- +76.41+< =6<14<0-7..1+-; +76.-:-6+-;#0- ;A5*741+)4-<-:6)4 57>-,:-+-6<4A<7) Exquisite stained glass 5)16.)E),-76 .4)5-*=:6;7>-:)5)87. 6-?*=14,16/)+:7;; at Palacio San Martín >-61,)")6<)F <0- "7=<0<4)6<1+1;4)6,; ?);16;81:-,*A <0-:7),76)44- >-:A57:616/<0-:/-6<161)6 ;5-:)4,)#0- )4)+17")6 <0-0)<-)=,-0)6<144A16 ):-6<;*=<1<78-6; 81-,*A)67..1+-:;+4=*C<0- 576=5-6< "74,1-:;16=61 .7:5.:75<0-<0:--*:)6+0-; .7:/=1,-,<7=:; G:+=47141<):C)6,)67<0-: 7.<0-5141<):A8-:.7:5<0- #0-*=14,16/)4;707=;-; 07=;-;<0-Museo de Armas )/77,+744-+<1767.8:- de la Nación?01+00);)6 +0)6/16/7.<0-/=):,->-:A 1;8)61+5-:1+)6):<)6, -@+-44-6<+744-+<1767.7>-:
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Arenales 761. City Map 3 E3. Tel (011) 4819-8092. Retiro, San Martín. 61, 93, 99, 130, 152. 11am Thu, 3pm, 4pm, 5pm Fri.

7:5-:4A367?6);<0- 6+07:-6) )4)+- )4)+17 ")6):
The extravagant entrance of the Círculo Militar

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p276 and p293

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The interior of Galerías Pacífico topped by beautiful frescoes on its dome

)4-:G); )+G.1+7 1; )0)6,;75-;078816/5)44 =14<16 *A):+01<-+<; Ave Santa Fe 690. City Map 3 E4. :)6+1;+7 "--*-:)6,51417 Tel (011) 4311-0303. Retiro, San =6/-);)76-;<78-587 Martín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

Florida 753. City Map 3 E4. Tel (011) 5555-5100. Florida. 6, 93, 130, 152. 10am− 10pm Mon−Sat, noon−10pm Sun. 11:30am & 4:30pm Mon−Sat, 1pm & 4:30pm Sun. www.galeriaspacifico.com.ar Centro Cultural Borges 10am– 9pm Mon–Sat, noon–9pm Sun. www.ccborges.org.ar

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Florida 1065. City Map 3 E3. San Martín, Retiro. 93 & 152.

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Plaza Fuerza Aérea Argentina. City Map 3 E3. Retiro. 130, 93, 109, 140, 28, 106, 129, 152. noon–7pm Wed–Sat.

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Grand main hall of Retiro Mitre on Avenida Ramos Mejía

! Ave Ramos Mejía 1550. City Map 3 E3. Tel (011) 4310-0700. Retiro. 130, 106, 129, 93.

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The distinctive brickwork of the Torre de los Ingleses For hotels and restaurants in this region see p276 and p293

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Suipacha 1422. City Map 3 D3. Tel (011) 4327-0272. Retiro, General San Martín. 59, 61, 93. 2–7pm Tue–Sun. 3pm Sat (in Spanish).

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Montevideo 919. City Map 2 C4. Tel (011) 4811-3588. 59. 11am–7pm Mon–Thu, 10am– 4pm Fri. Sat, Sun. only Spanish. www.fmh.org.ar

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Calle Arroyo, corner Suipacha. City Map 3 D3. Retiro. 59.

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Photos of Jewish victims of the Holocaust, Museo de la Shoá

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Cementerio de la Recoleta

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

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Centro Cultural Recoleta, venue of exciting artistic experimentation

Junín 1930. City Map 2 C2. Tel (011) 4803-1040. 10, 17, 60, 92, 110. 2−9pm Tue−Fri, 10am− 9pm Sat & Sun. www.centro culturalrecoleta.org

-69;/,)(9906 9*/0;,*;<(5 <:*/0(AA6>(:9,:765:0)3, -69;/,9,-<9)0:/4,5;(++05. Junín 1904. City Map 2 C2. ;/,7(=03065:,3,.(5; Tel (011) 4803-6793. 10, 17, 60, ;(30(5(;,;,99(*,:(5+( 92, 110. varies. 7:50am, */(7,3>/0*/0:56>(5 "/0:*6473,?6-)<03+05.: 11am, & 7:30pm Mon–Fri; 8:30am, (<+0;690<4 -;,9()90,- +(;,:-964;/, ;/*,5;<9@ 11am, & 7pm Sat; 8:30am, 10am, (5+0:65,6-;/,63+,:;05;/, 7,906+(:(/64,-69;/, 11am, noon, 7pm, 8pm, & 9pm Sun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ee pp100–1.

Avenida Quintana 596. City Map 2 C2. Tel (011) 4804-0449. 59, 60, 101, 102, 110. 7–3am daily. www.labiela.com/eng/menu.htm

A contemporary installation at the Centro Cultural Recoleta For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp276–7 and p293

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THE DOGS OF RECOLETA ;0:*64465-69>,(3;/@ ,*63,;(-(4030,:30=05.05(5 (7(9;4,5;>0;/6<;;/,9,8<09,+67,5:7(*,;6/09,( (796-,::065(3+6.>(32,9!05*,0;),*(4, -(:/065()3,+<905.;/, :;66>5(7<9,)9,,+4<;;C /<:20,:*/6>:(5+9(9,)9,,+:(9,7(9;0*<3(93@+,:09()3,C >,(3;/0,9 769;,G6-(4030,:/(=,7(0+(@6<5.<:<(33@4(3, 7,9:65;6>(32;/,09+6."/,9,0:.9,(;+,4(5+-69;/, :,9=0*,(5+,=,9@,4736@,,>033/(7703@>(32),;>,,5 ;,5(5+ +6.:366205.9(;/,9302,(4(@763,(;;/, *,5;,96-+(5*05.+<,305.(5+6**(:065(33@256;;05. 90))65: ,*63,;(:>0+,.9,,5:7(*,:(5+(3,946: 36=,3@(98<,+, ,)9,96(9,;/, 79,-,99,+9,:;:;67:(: ;/,@(9,36*(;,+*36:,;6 ;/,+6.:7(3(;0(3/64,: (5+(9,0+,(3-69(9<505 ;/,67,5#5-69;<5(;,3@ ;/,9,0:30;;3,*65;9636- +6.+09;(5+:05*,;/, :*667:(9,:/<55,+)@ >(32,9:(5+>,33;6+6 6>5,9:(302,=0:0;69: :/6<3+*/,*2*(9,-<33@ ),-69,:0;;05.(5+ :79,(+05.;/,0970*50* A busy afternoon for a local walker 65;/,.9(::

The glass-roofed L'Orangerie restaurant, Alvear Palace Hotel

(5+6<;;0:(3(:;05.,4)3,4 6-;/,*0;@:(:709(;065;6), :,,5(:;/,B(90:6-!6<;/ 4,90*(D"/0:30;/6<;36:05.(5@6- 0;:964(5*,69:(*90-0*05.;/, 047,**()3,7,9:65(3:,9=0*, :/(+, !<7,9,--0*0,5;>(0;,9: ;/(;;/,90*/,:;(5+46:; *64,(5+.6*(99@05. 76>,9-<3=0:0;69:;6;/,*0;@ >,0./;@:03=,9;9(@:6- ,?7,*; =,9;/,@,(9:;/,:, -05,7(:;90,:(5+7,9-,*;3@ .<,:;:/(=,05*3<+,+!7(50:/ Avenida Alvear 1891. City Map 3 205.:(7(5,:,,47,969: 4(*/05,+*<7:6-,:79,::6 "/,9,/(:),,5(*(-F65;/0: D2. Tel (011) 4808-2100. 67, 93, 4,90*(579,:0+,5;:(:>,33 130. www.alvearpalace. (:1<:;()6<;,=,9@16<95(30:; *695,9:05*,;/,,(93@ : (5+4,+0()6::-964(33 )<;(0,3(),*(4,>/(;0;0: com ;6+(@+<905.;/, :>/,5 (96<5+;/,>693+ <03;05 ;/,3=,(90: 9(*05.*(9+90=,9:4,;/,9, "/,)(9:(5+9,:;(<9(5;: (9,767<3(9(5+67,5;6;/, -69;/,0976:;9(*,+9052: *65:0+,9,+)@4(5@;6), 7<)30*"/,46:;73,(:(5;0: 656*/964,7/6;6.9(7/: <,56: 09,::653@;9<3@ .9(5+/6;,3

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Visitors enjoying coffee on the terrace of the bustling Café La Biela

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Eva Perón’s Tomb The Paz Family Tomb

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Avenida Quintana & Junín 1760. City Map 2 C2. 17, 61,62, 67, 92, 93, & 110. cnr Ave Quintana and Juńin 1760, (011) 4803-1594. 8am–5:45pm daily. 11am Tue & Thu.

KEY Suggested route The many grand tomb structures forming a miniature cityscape

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Posadas 1725. City Map 3 D2. Tel (011) 4804-1163. 17, 61, 62, 67, 92, 124, 130. 2−8pm Tue−Sun. 4pm & 6pm Sat & Sun. www.palaisdeglace.org

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The elegant space of the Palais de Glace now used for art exhibitions

The severe neoclassical façade of Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

=97/90>2/79=>0+79?= 8+7/=38<1/8>383+8+<> 38-6?.381 8>9839 /<83 )?6 $96+</98/<<+<3#+;?/6 Avenida del Libertador 1473. 9<8/<"<363.3+89"?/C<9839 0802. 67, 93, 130. 12:30− $/1?J/.,C=97/ 7:30pm Tue−Fri, 9:30am−7:30pm 90>2/3<,/=>589A8+8.79=> Sat, Sun, & public holidays. 5 & 3806?/8>3+6A9<5=%2/3806? 6pm daily (Spanish only). /8-/=90?<9:/+8+<>+38>2/ <1/8>383+8A9<5=,?>>2/ .3@/<1/8-/=>2/+<>3=>=7+5/ 8 <1/8>38+= +>398+6 >9366?=><+>/>2/69-+6@3/A 38/ <>=?=/?779@/.>9 9--?:C98/90>2/-3>C=7+49< :938>+/3819< A+>/3/=A2/ /B+7:6/+:+38>/<635//<83 2+=2/>/-283;?/=90=9-3+6 9=:/-303-+66C:9<><+C 38>/<39/6C 23=9A8?83;?/-<3966973B/. 2/=?:/< <+-//8@3<987/8> @3=398906/4+8.<9?=>3669 98/90>2/-9?8>/=> %2/7?=/?73=1<+.?+66C =2+53819003>=+>398 +<-23>/->=%2/8/9-6+==3-+6 0+H+./2+=-2+81/.63>>6/ +=+-+?>39?=23./,9?8. =38-/>2/9<3138+60+-363>C 38=>3>?>398 8 3>9:/8/. 3>=03<=>,<+8-238>2/ 9:/8/.38 :+<>0<97 "+>+1983+8-3>C90 /?;?I8 =97/=?,=/;?/8>/B:+8=398 +8.398A9<5>2/ +8.38 3>+../.+:/<7+ 7?=/?7A3>23>==:+-39?= 8/8>.3=:6+C90:=+698= ?.39>9?<=+8.+A/66 7?-2+=3>A+=A2/8" =>9-5/.,995=29:2+@/ ?=>9-?>>2/<3,,9838 2/6:/.7+5/3>+8/B-/66/8> 79./<87?=/?7 ?<6C>2/7?=/?7 -97:<3=/= /B23,3>398 <997=.3@3./.9@/<>22+8 A9<5=38 >2/:/<7+8/8>-966/->398 +6>29?12986C-+8,/ .3=:6+C/.+>+8C98/>37/ %2/=:/-3+63=>+<>63,<+9>2/:?,63--98>+38= 792+8 @96?7/= %2/-966/->39829?=/.38 >2/?=/9 +-398+6.//66+= <>/=3=98/90>2/79=>9?> =>+8.38138$9?>2 7/<3-+ !8.3=:6+C+2/-+8983-+6031?23=>9 6=+6=938-6?./

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp276–7 and p293

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Agüero 2502. City Map 2 B2. Tel (011) 4808-6000. 60, 95, 130. photo ID required for entry. Feb–Dec: 9am−9pm Mon−Fri, noon−7pm Sat & Sun. Jan. 3pm Mon, Tue, & Thu. www.bibnal.edu.ar

!8/90>2/6+<1/=>63,<+<3/= 38>2/7/<3-+= <1/8>38+= 3,639>/-+ +-398+629?=/= +@+=>-966/->398/B-//.381 >A97366398@96?7/=995= 49?<8+6=+8.37:9<>+8>23= >9<3-+67+8?=-<3:>=+9=2?1/?8./<1<9?8. The personal library of Ricardo @+?6>=%2/=/38-6?./+03<=> Rojas decorated with Inca symbols /.3>39890 >2/ :/<=98+663>/<+39890 A+=.98+>/.>9>2/-9?8>
,C23=A3.9A+8.9:/8/.+= ?>/8,/<13,6/%2/63,<+>/.,C>2/ +2+>A/398=23:,/>A//8 :<38>/.,/092/=/:3/-/= -96983+6 7/<3-+ A23-22/-98-/3@/. + +=+.3+691+=A/66+= ?1?=>38/+8>/ +8.3-/<9 +-6+=290-?6>?=/60 ?36>A3>2+73B90 3=898/>9916+79 $:+83=2+8.8-+ <9?=,?36>98>2/=3>/ =>C6/=>2/29?=/A+= 90>2/:+6+-/A2/9/7,9.C >2/"/3= Literary icon Jorge >23=.9-><38/%23=3= Luis Borges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

Laprida 1212. City Map 2 A3. Tel (011) 4824-3302. Agüero. 39, 68, 152. noon−8pm Tue−Fri, noon−7pm Sat. 4:30pm Tue, Thu, & Sat (prior arrangement for English). www.xulsolar.org.ar

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Charcas 2837. City Map 2 B3. Tel (011) 4824-4039. Agüero. 39, 68, 152. 10am−6:30pm Mon−Fri.

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Display of Xul Solar’s eccentric artwork at the Museo Xul Solar

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Historical Sites, Buildings, and Plazas

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Contemporary art displays at the Museo de Artes Plásticas Eduardo Sívori

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):,-6?1<0*=;<;7..)57=; 87-<;)576/<0-57:/-=1; 7:/-;-,-:1+7):+F) Avenida Casares and Avenida Berro. 7:+))6,#0)3-;8-):- Avenida Adolfo Berro. City Map 5 City Map 5 F3. Tel (011) 4804 576/<0-576=5-6<;16 E2 Palermo, Lisando de la Torre. <0-8):3):-<0-76=5-6<7 4922. 10, 34, 36. 10am–6pm

Palermo, Plaza Italia. 10, 34, daily. 3pm Sat (Spanish only). )47;;8)G74-;-:-+<-,); 36, 37, 67, 130. www.jardinjapones.com.ar 8):<7.<0-+-6<-6):A+-4- $0-+)81<)4;4):/-;<)6,57;< *:)<176;7.<0-"->74=+1H6 ,-)A716 $0-;-8-)+-.=4)6,+):-.=44A 878=4):8):3!):9=-,- 5)16<)16-,/):,-6;?-:- -*:-:71;)4;7367?6);<0- =/=;<- "7,16;576=5-6< +:-)<-,16 );)/1.< 7;9=-;,-!)4-:57!)4-:57 <7 #):51-6<7)6,) 576=5-6<<7 <7<0-+1-:<0-?--3 :/-6<161)6,1+<)<7:=)6 +755=61-, Bonsai plant at Jardín Japonés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lakes at the Jardín Japonés

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p277 and pp294–5

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Avenida Sarmiento and Avenida Las Heras. City Map 5 E3. Tel (011) 4011-9900. Palermo. Plaza Italia. 15, 36, 37, 60, 152. 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. free for children under 12. www.zoobuenosaires.com.ar

One of the elegant greenhouses at the Jardín Botánico

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Santa Fe 3951. City Map 5 E4. Tel (011) 4831-4527. Palermo.

Plaza Italia. 15, 36, 37, 60, 152. 8am–7pm daily. 10:30am & 3:30pm Sat & Sun; 9pm on last Fri of the month.

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The beautiful 20th-century building that houses Museo Evita

Lafinur 2988, Palermo. City Map 5 E3. Tel (011) 4807-0306. Plaza Italia. 39, 59, 93. Dec–Mar: 11am–7pm Tue–Sun; Apr–Nov: 1pm– 7pm Tue–Sun. limited.

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See pp110–11.

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! Ave del Libertador 2373, Palermo. City Map 5 F3. Tel (011) 4803-2384. 37, 59, 60. 1–7pm Wed–Fri, 10am–8pm Sat, Sun, and pub hols. 1 Jan, 1 May, Good Friday, & Dec 25. by reservation only. www.mujose.org.ar

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Interior of Museo de Arte Popular José Hernández

Avenida del Libertador 1902, Recoleta. City Map 2 B2. Tel (011) 4802-6606. 59, 60, 67, 93. 2–9pm Tue–Sun. last week Dec & first week Jan. Tue free. 4:30pm Tue–Sat, 2:30pm Tue– Sun (in English). by arrangement. www.mnad.org

Wide wooden doors at Museo de Arte Popular José Hernández

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p277 and pp294–5

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French-style ornate façade of Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo

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Avenida del Libertador 4300, Palermo. City Map 5 D2. Tel (011) 4777-6444. Ministro Carranza. 130, 160, 166. www.aapolo.com

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Avenida del Libertador 4104, Palermo. City Map 5 D2. Tel (011) 4778-2800. Ministro Carranza. 130, 160, 166. varies. www.palermo.com.ar

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A polo match in progress at the Campo Argentino de Polo de Palermo

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The strikingly contemporary cuboid form of MALBA

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First floor

Ticket Office

Entrance

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Fundación Costantini, Avenida. Figueroa Alcorta 3415. City Map 5 F3. Tel (011) 4808-6500, (011) 4808-6541 (tours). 67, 102, 124, 130. noon–8pm Thu–Mon & pub hols, noon–9pm Wed; cinema: 2pm Thu–Sun.

Tue. free Wed. by prior arrangement only. www.malba.org.ar

Third floor

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Second floor

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GALLERY GUIDE

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STAR EXHIBITS

Manifestación (1934) Abaporu (1928) Rompecabezas (1968–1970)

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Avenida del Libertador 8209. City Map 5 D3. Estación Rivadavia. 29, 60, 130, 160.

The towering minarets of the Centro Cultural Islámico Rey Fahd

Avenida Intendente Bullrich 55. City Map 5 D2. Tel (011) 4899-1144. 15, 36, 37, 60. 10am–5pm Mon–Fri. noon Tue & Thu. www.ccislamicoreyfahd.org.ar

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Avenida Santa Fe 4201. City Map 5 E3. Tel (011) 4777-5500. 15, 36, 37, 60. only for events.

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A busy day at the La Rural agricultural fair

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p277 and pp294–5

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4)?A-:;?1<04-.<?16/ 4-)616/;?-:-*:7=/0<0-:- +755764A16=65):3-,7:, )4+76;<7:<=:-,)6,=;=)44A 3144-, <1;-;<15)<-,<0)< ):7=6, 8-784-?-:- 16<-:6-,)<",=:16/<0- ;7+)44-,C1:-*1:<0<0-63144-,;7 <0)<<0-1:+014,:-6+7=4,*- /1>-6=8.7:),78<176<7 C.:1-6,;D7.<0-2=6<) ;8):<7.:/-6<16); 76/716/;<:=//4-<7+75-<7 <-:5;?1<0<01;,):3-:)<0- /7>-:65-6<0);+7551<<-, 1<;-4.<7<0-+76;<:=+<1767.) One of the many excellent restaurants in the posh Las Cañitas suburb C"8)+-.7:-57:A)6,<0- :757<176)6,-.-6+-7. -6,;3--8<:)..1+4->-4;,7?6 =5)6 !1/0<;D?01+0?144*- =:16/<0-51, ;=4<:) 07=;-,?1<016<0-;-/:7=6,; 018:-;<)=:)6<;;=+0);"7=4 ).F)6,7>-+-6<7 *-/)6<7)88-):16<0- 3 de Febrero 1370/8. City Map 4 ):-);-<<16/1657<176);8)<- B1. Tel (011) 4784-9971. 60. 11am−7pm Mon−Fri. for 7.-@+4=;1>-/);<:76751+ groups only. www.inapl.gov.ar Calle Baez, Arévalo. City Map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hané mask, <:1;<;A<0--):4A ;8;A+07 1)/=1<))6, Museo Nacional )6)4A;1;0),-;<)*41;0-,1<;-4.); 6=5-:7=; del Hombre )878=4):=61>-:;11;176 #1-::),-4=-/7:-/1765)6A ;07?;87:<:)A>1;1<;<7) 7.?075?-:-?18-,7=<*A 8;A+01)<:1;<<7*- =:78-)6+74761B-:;576/ );7:,16):A)6-@8-:1-6+-16 <0- -@01*1<;;75-7. <0-,)14A41.-7.51,,4-+4);; ?01+0):-:-8:7,=+<176;):- 87:<-H7;);/716/<7)<-661; <:),1<176)4+:).<;<-@<14-; 4-;;767:5--<16/.7:).)514A 5=;1+)416;<:=5-6<;5);3; *):*-+=- ;<0-):-)7. )6,+7;<=5-;7<-?7:<0A )4-:57):7=6, 4)B)I-5-; ):-<0-)8=+0-;14>-: 1;- 8;A+01)<:1;<;1<0);*-+75- Sigmund Freud, Austrian <:--#0- 367?6);%144):-=, neurologist and psychiatrist 5=;-=5;0780););5)44 *=<-@+-44-6<+:).<;;-4-+<176

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Northwest of Palermo. 138, 942. Juramento, Belgrano C, Belgrano R. 60, 65, 114, 118, 152. Sat & Sun.

)5-,).<-:)6=-4 -4/:)67<0-6,-8-6,-6+0-:7?07,-;1/6-,<0- 6)<176)4.4)/-4/:)67?); <0-+)81<)47.<0-:/-6<161)6 "-8=*41+.7:).-??--3;16 '0-6<0-)=<07:1<1-;16 Chessboard-tiled dining room at Museo de Arte Español Enrique Larreta <0-+)81<)4.7=6,<0-5;-4>-; )<7,,;?1<0<0-8:7>16+1)4

Museo de Arte Español /7>-:65-6<1-4 );)6-=<:)4;-)<7.87?-: Avenida Juramento 2291. Tel (011) $0-:- $0-;-,)A;<0-764A ->1,-6+-7.<01;.7:5-:/47:A 4783-2640. Juramento. 60, ):-)4;7;->-:)487:<:)1<;7. 65, 114, 118. 3–8pm Wed–Mon. )::-<)015;-4..7:?01+00- 1;<0-<7?60)4467?<0- Sarmiento Historical Museum Thu free. 5pm Mon–Fri, 4 & ;)<16 ):1;16 $0- 6pm Sat & Sun. limited. )6,<0-+0=:+07.La +744-+<17616<0-5=;-=5?); www.museos.buenosaires.gov.ar/ Inmaculada Concepción ;=*;<)6<1)44A)=/5-6<-,16 larreta.htm 367?6<7<0-47+)4;); ?1<08)16<16/;)6, 7+)<-,16<0-0-):<7. 7*2-+<;.:75<0-=;-7,- ) "-,76,)*-+)=;-7. 1<;+1:+=4):?)44;$0- -4/:)67<01;;5)44 :<-1;8)67)5-:1+)67;))+ *)::170);)/77, 5=;-=51;07=;-,16 -:6C6,-B4)6+716+4=,16/ :)6/-7.*):;:-;<)= <0-.7:5-::-;1,-6+- >)4=)*4-?7:3;*A#C6+0-B :)6<;)6,:-<)147=<4-<; 7.?:1<-:6:19=7-447)6, )6<72),-4):=B )6,=-67;1:-;; )::-<) – 764A016)<7?61;)4;7

Museo Casa de Yrurtia -?);)61587:<)6< 47+)<-,0-:--4/:)67 O’Higgins 2390. Tel (011) 4781.1/=:-16:/-6<161)6 0385. Juramento. 60, 65. 57,-:61;5)6,?); 8:78-:1;)-61,) (:=:<1))6,01;?1.-<0- San Martín de ;7)3-,16,77:8)<17; :)5-:<0-01/0:1;- 8)16<-:7::-)7:)4-; Tours at Museo )6,)67:6)5-6<)4 de Arte Español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he neocolonial façade of Museo Casa de Yrutia For hotels and restaurants in this region see p277 and pp294–5

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Guzmán and Jorge Newbery. City Map 4 A4. Tel (011) 45539338. Federico Lacroze. 39, 45, 71, 93. 7am–6pm daily. 3pm, 2nd & 4th Sat.

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The Dinosaur Room at Museo Argentino de Ciencias Naturales

Honduras & Borges. City Map 5 D4. 15, 39, 110, 141, 168.

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The tomb of tango singer Carlos Gardel, at Cementerio de la Chacarita

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Ave Angel Gallardo 490. Tel (011) 4982-1154. Angel Gallardo. 65, 97, 105, 112, 124. 2–7pm daily. only in summer. www.macn. secyt.gov.ar

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Road Map C3. Lisandro de la Torre y Avenida de los Corrales, Barrio de Mataderos. Tel (011) 4342-9246 (Mon–Sat); (011) 4687-5602 (Sun). 55, 92, 97, 126, & 155. Jan– Mar: 6pm–1am Sat; Apr–Dec: 11am– 9pm Sun. www.feriademataderos. com.ar

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Leather belts sold at the popular artisanal Feria de Mataderos

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SIGHTS AT A GLANCE

Road Map C3. 17 miles (27 km) N of Buenos Aires. 301,000. 60. daily. www.tigre.gov.ar

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Ferry used to transport visitors in Tigre

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p277 and p295

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The serene interior of the Iglesia Matriz, Colonia del Sacramento

)<03+05.:#/,:,05*3<+, ;/, Museo Portugués>0;/ ,?*,33,5;:(473,:6-4(7:65 Road Map D3. 22,000. ;/, 69;<.<,:,=6@(.,:6- from Puerto Madero. +0:*6=,9@(5+;/,Museo Municipal>/0*//6<:,:(5 6<5+,+)@;/, 69;<.<,:,05 (99(@6-05+0.,56<:(9;0-(*;:

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acaranda blossoms covering 69;<.<,:,(5+"7(50:/05-3< ,?*,33,5;9,:;(<9(5;: a path at Isla Martín García ,5*,:9,:<3;,+05;/,*6))3, Museo Portugués :;65,+:;9,,;:3,(-@73(A(: Casa Historica, Calle de San Pedro, ,3,.(5;*/<9*/,:(5+:;<**6 in front of Plaza Mayor. -(C(+,+4(5:065:;/(; 11:15am–4:45pm daily. Road Map D3. Río de la Plata. ()6<5+05(99060:;E90*6 Museo Municipal 150. from Tigre, daily. 96<5+0;:-0.(5+7(34 Calle del Comercio, in front of ;9,,305,+*,5;9(3:8<(9, Plaza Mayor. 11:15am–4:45pm 3;/6<./*64790:05.(:4(33 3(A((@69(9,(5<4),96- daily. (9,(6-3(5+:3((9;D5(9*D( 4<:,<4:(5+/0:;690*(3 /(:),,5-6<./;6=,9)@ "7(059(A03 69;<.(3 $9<.<(@90;(05(5+9(5*, 0;>(:-05(33@*658<,9,+)@ ;/,9.,5;050(5(=@05 #/,0:3(5+:-69;0-0*(;065: >,9,<:,+(:790:65:(5+ 4(5@30:;7630;0*(3+,;(05,,: +0+:;9,;*/,:/,9,05*3<+05. 9,:0+,5;:07E30;6'90.6@,5 (5+(9*,36#+,3=,(9 ;/696<./(**6<5;6-:3( (9;D5(9*D(:365.(5+ =063,5;/0:;69@0:9,3(;,+ ;/96<./;/,+0:73(@:05;/, :4(33 Museo Histórico36*(;,+ 5,(9;/,*,5;,96-;/,0:3(5+ One of the picturesque cobblestoned streets in Colonia del Sacramento

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7'015 +4'5*#5/14'725%#.' #0&'4+#&'#0'&41'./1 /#..5#0&5/#46(#5*+10$17 8'0010(#5*+10+56#5 5*17.&6#-' 6+37'56*#0#0;16*'4%+6;+0 #5641..4170&#.'4/1 +',1615'' #6+0 /'4+%#*'/#0;)4'#6 6*'#/#<+0)4#0)'1(*1/'5270 $#4)#+05101(('4*'4'/#-'6*' &'5+)05#0&(#$4+%5105*19 %#2+6#.#5*122'45&'.+)*6'#6*'4 7'015 +4'5+5*1/'616*17 $#)5#0&,#%-'655+.8'49#4'#0& 5#0&51(5/#..4'6#+.'454#0)+0) #06+37'5#4'6*'%.#55+%274%*#5'5 (41/6':6+.'176.'65+06*'$756.+0) (148+5+61459*+.'*#0&+%4#(65 Antique piece, Feria 0'+)*$14*11&56156;.+5*0'9 (41/#%4155 4)'06+0##4'#8#+. de San Pedro Telmo &'.+5#0&9+0'5614'55'..+0) #$.'#652'%+#.+565614'5#0&/#4-'65 $176+37' 241&7%65 #0& 1(('4+0) # 57%*#56*'2127.#4'4+#.#<#4#0%+# 2'4510#.+<'&5*122+0)':2'4+'0%' CRAFTS AND GIFTS

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An array of items at Feria de San Pedro Telmo, San Telmo barrio

#0)16*'/'&5178'0+45#4' 8'4;2127.#4#0)1/'/14# $+.+#+5561%-'Zival’s#0 '/214+7/106*'%140'41( #..#1#0&144+'06'5*'4' +5#9'..'56#$.+5*'&+0&7564; +0-+65%*#46914-#0& +0%4'#5+0).;6#0)1(#5*+10 14#4#0)'1(+06'4'56+0) %1..'%6+$.'5+0%.7&+0)910 &'4(7.1.&2156'455*+465 #0�%+'06/75+%#.5%14'5 8+5+66*'Club de Tango 148+5+61459+5*+0)61 274%*#5'14+)+0#.,'9'.4; 6*'4'#4'140#6'%106'/ 214#4;5+.8'4%4'#6+105#6 María Medici#0&/14''6*0+% 0'%-.#%'5#0&'#44+0)5#6 Plata Nativa ART AND ANTIQUES

Leather jackets, bags, and ponchos at a gaucho shop

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6*%'0674;)4#/12*10'5 61 6*%'0674;56#67'5#0& 14+)+0#.911&'06470-575'& $;'#4.;7412'#0+//+ )4#065 Feria de Pulgas+5# &756;(.'#/#4-'6+0#.'4/1 +',16*#65'..5%.1%-5).#55 51&#$166.'5%'4#/+%8#5'5 2#+06+0)5#0&'8'01.& %#45#0&911&'0$'&5Gil Antigüedades561%-5.18'.; 5+.8'42.#6'& )174&5#0& +%614+#0%.16*+0)9*+.'HB Antigüedades.1%#6'&+0#0 1.&/#05+10&+52.#;5#0#44#; 1(+06'4'56+0)+6'/56*#651/' 5*122'45/#;(+0&)#7&;

FASHION #.'4/1 +',1+56*''2+%'06'4 1( 4)'06+0#5*#76'%17674' +0&7564;9*+.''%1.'6# 4'/#+056*'$#44+1(14/14' 64#&+6+10#.(#5*+1051/' &'5+)0'4557%*#5#46+0 *74$#1(Tramando, Martin Churba*#8'#.4'#&;/#&' +6$+)10%#69#.-5+0+.#0 #0& '9 !14- 16*'4557%* #5/+&4#0)'&'5+)0'45Ona Sáez#0&Juana de Arco#4' 9'...+-'&$;2146'@15(14 6*'+4%*+%#0&74$#0&'5+)05 127.#4(#5*+1056'0&61 (1..19 7412'#064'0&5(#+4.; %.15'.;51$+)/#..5561%-

4/#0+74$'44;17+5 7+6610#0&16*'49'..-0190 +06'40#6+10#.&'5+)0'45 14/'059'#4%*'%-176 6*'%4'#6+1051(Hermanos Estebecorena9*+.'(14%11. 2146'@164'0&58+5+6Félix 1%#6'&%.15'$;10#..'5 74+..1 #0& %#.#$4+0+ 46?< #4'5'8'4#.':%'..'06.'#6*'4 5*1251(('4+0)6*'+49#4'5#6 0'#49*1.'5#.'24+%'5*'4' #4'/#0;5*1256*#652'%+#. +<'+0%*+.&4'05%.16*'5+06*' %#2+6#.#0&6*'4'#4''8'0 $176+37'56*#65'..*#76' %17674'(14$#$+'510.;#%17 2.'1(/106*51.&Owoko+0 #.'4/1 +',1+5#$4+)*6#0& $7$$.;'/214+7/5'..+0) 2;,#/#5&4'55'55*+465#0& 64'0&;64175'45 (4''-+&5 5614;$11-+5)+8'0#9#;9+6* '8'4;274%*#5' 016*'4 2127.#4%.16*'55*12*'4'+5 Cheeky9*+%**#55'#510#. %1..'%6+105#0&2748';5# /14'%.#55+%56;.+5*.+0'+0 74$#0)'#4(14;170)2'12.'

LINGERIE AND SWIMWEAR *'4'#4'07/'4175 *+)*564''65614'5+0 7'015 +4'5-0190 (145'..+0))11&37#.+6; .+0)'4+' 8'05/#.. 0'+)*$14*11&70&'4 9'#45*125&4'556*'+4 9+0&195+0.#%'#0& 5#6+0(+0'4;*' $+))'560#/'+06*' %17064;+5Caro Cuore 9*+%*5'..5.+0)'4+' (1491/'0#6(#+4.; 4'#510#$.'24+%'5 *'$4#0&*#5 $4#0%*'5+06*'/#..5 #0&+5561%-'&$;#.. )'0'4#.4'6#+.'45 1451/'6*+0)/14' ':16+%#0&+0)64;

The Ateneo Grand Splendid bookshop

*+)*37#.+6;24'55*'4'#4' 6#0)1 +0144+'06'5 9+6*(.7((#0&.#%'106*' 10'56*#65'...#94'.#6'& )#4/'06514Zoel52'%+#.+<+0) $11-5#0&/#)#<+0'5+06*' +06*'2146'@#2'0%*#06(14 4+$70#.'5#4'##0&215* /7.6+%1.14'&6*10)5#0& 56#0&5#66*'#+421465'..+0) /+0+5%7.'564#25 %1((''6#$.'$11-5#0&6*' 1452146;59+/9'#46*'4' .#6'56018'.5'952#2'45 #4'&1<'051(':%'..'06521465 /#)#<+0'5#0&.+6'4#674'%#0 )'#45*125.1%#6'&#..18'4 #..$'1$6#+0'B*' 6*'%#2+6#.+0%.7&+0)#$4#0%* +0 '%1.'6##0&+4%41%'0641 *' 0).+5*.#0)7#)' 1( Speedo*'.1%#.(#5*+10 +551.&+0 4'6#+.'4Salsipuedes561%-5 +6519059+//+0)6470-5 /#0;1(6*'%'064#..;.1%#6'& #0& . '4 '4#5$+-+0+5 56#0&514#9+&'4#0)'1( 0).+5*.#0)7#)'$11-58+5+6 NEWSPAPERS, BOOKS, Ateneo Grand Splendid10 AND MUSIC

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4)'06+0+#0%.#55+%557%*#5 14)'5521'/5#0&5*146 5614+'5#0& $;15>'40=0&'<*'5' #4'#8#+.#$.'#6$4#0%*'5 1( Boutique del Libro#0& Cúspide*'(14/'4*#5#0 176.'6+0#.'4/1 +',1#0& 6*'.#66'4*#5#$4#0%*+0 6*' '%1.'6# +..#)'/#.. "+8#.5+59'..-0190(14 6#0)1$11-5#0&#.511(('45 #0':%'..'06#0&':6'05+8' 4#0)'1( 4)'06+0+#06#0)1 (1.-,#<<#0&41%-5 4#0%*'51(Musimundo (170&6*417)*1766*'%+6; #4'1(6'0%*'#2'4(14$'56 A shop selling a wide range of leather goods, Recoleta 5'..+0)5 Amor Latino, Lingerie & Corseterie9*+%*':2'4+/'065

54/.4(%7%34%2.%$'% /&4(%#!0)4!,)34(%%2)!$% !4!$%2/3 4 4()3"534,).''!5#(/4(%-%$ &,%!-!2+%4,//+/54&/2 7/2+3"9,/2%.#)//,).! !-0/34(%#/5.4293"%34 +./7.#!24//.)34)3 %8#%,,%.43+%4#(%3&/24(% #!,%.$!23/&4(%/-0!?)!

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WINE AND FOOD (%"//-).$%,)3!.$7).% 34/2%3)32%,!4)6%,9.%7 053(%$/."94(%).#2%!3).' .5-"%2/&7%!,4(94/52)343 ).4(%#)49,//+).'&/2'//$ 7).%3!.$,/#!,02/$5#43 2!6%,%23./4"/5.$&/24(% %.$/:!2%')/.3(/5,$$%&) .)4%,9%80,/2%4(%7).%3(/03 ).4(%#!0)4!,/20%23/.!, 3%26)#%7()#().#,5$%37).% 4!34).'3'/4/Parras/2 Ligier(%9!,3/(%,07)4( /2'!.):).'/6%23%!33()00).' Winery)3!3-!247).%350%2 -!2+%47)4(!2!.'%/&34/#+ &2/-!,,2%')/.37(),%La Finca)3-/2%&/#53%$/. ,%337%,,+./7."/54)15% 6).4!'%3&2/-%.$/:! (%2%!2% "!+%2)%34(2/5'(/544(%#)49 !.$-/34()'(342%%43(!6% (%!,4(34/2%3 34/#+).'6)4!-).37(/,% '2!).")3#5)43$)%402/$5#43 !.$3.!#+3 ,!2'% #!&=33%,,&2%3(0!342)%3!.$ 3!.$7)#(%3/4294(%#)493 "%34 37%%4 #2/)33!.436)3)4Dos Escudos Al Queso Queso!.$La Casa del Queso34/#+-),$ -),+9#(%%3%3!.$#52%$ -%!43&2/-4(%02/6).#%3 !37%,,!3/,)6%3!.4)0!34/ "2%!$3!.$/4(%2")4%3 )3)4/23/5'(44/429 #//+)%3,/6%$"9,/#!,3(% "%34+./7.!2%-!$%"9 Havanna7()#((!3/54,%43 !,,!#2/334(%#)49

SHOPPING MALLS 5%./3 )2%33/,$%343(/00).' #%.4%2Patio Bullrich/0%.%$ ).

!.$34/#+3%8#,53)6% MARKETS $%3)'.%27%!2).#,5$).')/2 %23!#%!.$!,0(!52%.!3 (%"%34(!.$)#2!&4-!2+%43 7%,,!3"%!54)&5, 2'%.4).)!. ). 2'%.4).!!2%&/5.$).4(% #/5452%#2%!4)/.3(%'2!.$ 4/7.3!.$#)4)%3/&4(%).4%2)/2 !,%2>!3!#>&)#/ %30%#)!,,94(/3%7(%2%).$) 7!32%./6!4%$).4(%,!4% '%./53!.$-%34):/#5,452%3 3!.$)3./7!-5,4) #/.4).5%4/4(2)6%/24(/3% 4)%2%$%-0/2)5-/&()'( 342%%4&!3()/.#(!)./54,%43 7(/!2%,)-)4%$4/"59).'). 3(/%3(/03!.$')&4!.$ 4(%#!0)4!,4(%Feria Plaza +.)#++.!#+ Francia)3'//$&/2"!'3 Alto Palermo!.$4(%,!2'%2 '%!2!.$*%7%,29 -/2%(!.$3/-%Abasto!2% (%,!2'%2Feria de San Pedro Telmo/.,!:! '//$&/20%2&5-%3!.$(%!,4( /22%'/34/#+34!.'/ 3(/03(%9!,3/(/53%0/05 3/56%.)23/,$6).9,!.$,/7 ,!2,/#!,#(!).335#(!3 '2!$%!.4)15%3(%%2)!$% Chocolate!.$María Vázquez Unicenter)3!#,!33)#349,% 5,'!3)3!'2%!40,!#%&/2! 25--!'% 4()3(5'%3(%$)3 -!,,7)4((5'%%,%#42)#!,!.$ &5,,/&25349/,$,!-03"2!33 7()4%'//$334/2%3 "%$3"//+3!.$3#2!4#(%$ 3-!,,-!,,3/&&%2,%33%80%. 2%#/2$3$%!,"!2'!).3!2% 3)6%#,/4(%3!.$/2.!-%.43 !6!),!",%&/24(/3%&52.)3().' !.$ Galería Bond Street/&& !.4!%34/#+3;'/4(
The spacious and elegant interior of the Patio Bullrich shopping mall

DIRECTORY CRAFTS AND GIFTS Arte Étnico Argentino El Salvador 4656. City Map 5 D4. Tel (011) 4832-0516.

Calma Chicha Honduras 4925. City Map 5 D4. Tel (011) 4831-1818.

Club de Tango Parana 123, 5th Floor. City Map 2 C3. Tel (011) 4372-7251.

Galería Rubbers

Speedo

Ligier

Alvear 1595. City Map 3 D3. Tel (011) 4816-1864.

Abasto, Ave Corrientes 3247. City Map 2 A4. Tel (011) 4959-3463.

Ave Santa Fe 800. City Map 3 E3. Tel (011) 4515-0126. www.ligier. com.ar

Gil Antigüedades Humberto Primo 412. City Map 1 E2.

HB Antigüedades Defensa 1016. City Map 1 E1. Tel (011) 4361-3325.

Ruth Benzacar Florida 1000. City Map 3 E4. Tel (011) 4313-8480. www.ruthbenzacar.com

Zoel Paseo Alcorta shopping mall. City Map 2 B1.

NEWSPAPERS, BOOKS AND MUSIC Ateneo Grand Splendid Avenida Santa Fe 1860. City Map 2 C3.

Del Monte

FASHION

Boutique del Libro

Uriarte 1440. City Map 4 C4.

Cheeky

Thames 1762, Palermo Viejo. City Map 5 D4.

Kelly’s Paraguay 431. City Map 3 E4.

María Medici Niceto Vega 4619. City Map 4 C4. Tel (011) 4773-2283.

Plata Nativa Galería Del Sol, Florida 860. City Map 3 E4. Tel (011) 4312-1398.

Tierra Adentro Arroyo 882. City Map 3 D3. Tel (011) 4393-8552.

Abasto, Ave Corrientes 3247. Tel (011) 49593549. City Map 2 A4.

Félix Gurruchaga 1670. City Map 5 D4. Tel (011) 4832-2994.

Hermanos Estebecorena El Salvador 5960. City Map 4 C3.

Juana de Arco El Salvador 4762. City Map 5 D4.

Ona Sáez

Zival’s

Ave Santa Fe 1651. City Map 1 C3.

Ave Callao 395. City Map 2 C4. Tel (011) 51287505. www.zivals.com

Owoko

ART AND ANTIQUES Daniel Abate Pasaje Bollini 2170. City Map 2 C2. Tel (011) 4804-8247.

Elsi del Rio Arévalo 1748. City Map 4 C3. Tel (011) 4899-0171.

Feria de Pulgas

El Salvador 4694. City Map 5 D4. Tel (011) 4831-1259.

Tramando, Martin Churba Rodriguez Peña 1973. City Map 3 D3. Tel (011) 4811-0465.

LINGERIE AND SWIMWEAR Amor Latino, Lingerie & Corseterie

Buenos Aires Herald www.buenosaires herald.com

Galeria Alvear, Ave Alvear 1777. City Map 3 D3. Tel (011) 4814-0011.

Winery Ave Corrientes 302. City Map 3 E4. Tel (011) 4394-2200. www.winery.com.ar

MARKETS Feria de San Pedro Telmo Plaza Dorrego, San Telmo. City Map 1 E1.

Cúspide

Feria Plaza Francia

Village Recoleta. City Map 2 C3. Tel (011) 4807- 5716. www.cuspide.com

Plaza Francia, Recoleta. City Map 2 C2.

KEL Ediciones

Abasto

Marcelo T de Alvear 1369. City Map 3 D3. Tel (011) 4814-0143. www.kel-ediciones.com

Ave Corrientes 3247 City Map 2 A4. Tel (011) 4959-3400. www.abasto-shopping. com.ar

Musimundo Ave Santa Fe 1844. City Map 2 C3. Tel (011) 4814-0370. www.musi mundo.com.ar

SHOPPING MALLS

Alto Palermo

WINES AND FOOD

Ave Santa Fe 3253. City Map 2 A2. Tel (011) 5777-8000. www.alto palermo.com.ar

Al Queso Queso

Chocolate

Uruguay 1276. City Map 3 D3. Tel (011) 4811-7113. www.alquesoqueso.com

Alto Palermo Shopping Mall. City Map 2 A2. Tel (011) 5777-8072.

Dos Escudos

Ave Santa Fe 1670. City Map 2 C3.

Montevideo 1690. City Map 3 D3. Tel (011) 4812-2517.

Havanna Florida 159. City Map 3 E5. www.havanna. com.ar

Niceto Vega & Dorrego, Palermo Viejo. City Map 5 D4.

El Salvador 4813. City Map 5 D4.

Fundación Federico Klemm

Galerías Pacifico local 235. City Map 3 E4.

Ave Corrientes 3587. City Map 2 A4. Tel (011) 4862-4794.

Marcelo T. de Alvear 626. City Map 3 E4. Tel (011) 4312-4443.

Salsipuedes

La Finca

Honduras 4814. City Map 5 D4.

Costa Rica 4615, Palermo Viejo. City Map 5 D4.

Caro Cuore

Parras

La Casa del Queso

Galería Bond Street

María Vázquez Alto Palermo Shopping Mall. City Map 2 A2. Tel (011) 4779-9191.

Patio Bullrich Ave del Libertador 750. City Map 3 D3. Tel (011) 4814-7400.

Unicenter Paraná 3745, Martínez. City Map 2 C3. www.unicenter.com.ar

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A jazz concert at the popular restaurant Notorious

CLASSICAL MUSIC AND THEATER

A tango show in progress in a theater in Buenos Aires

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*$&$3&".1"3-034 Match between Boca Juniors and River Plate at La Bombonera */5)&$*5:"3&463&50,&&1 $)*-%3&/4.*-*/()&3&*4 SPECTATOR SPORTS 5)&/035)&3/46#63#40'5)& 0'5&/"$*3$641"44*/(5)306() $"1*5"-)&$0.1&5*5*0/4"3& 5)&$"1*5"-"/%.*.&4"/% "+0341035*/(&7&/5446$)"4 )&-%."*/-:*/ 6&/04 *3&4 +6((-&34'06/%&7&3:8)&3& 36(#:*/5&3/"5*0/"-4"/%)*() "/%*/6/5"%&-45&)& */5)&$*5:8*--"-40,&&1 130'*-&3"$&%":4"553"$5-"3(& 0''*$*"-8*5&0'Unión $)*-%3&/0$$61*&% 6&/04 *3&4*41306%0'*54$-08/4 $308%48)*-&"'005#"--*/5&3 Argentina de Rugby)"4" /"5*0/"-03" "%&3#: 4$)&%6-&0'/"5*0/"-"/%*/5&3 "/%1611&5&&34"/%504&&" /"5*0/"-5063/".&/54 ."5$)#&58&&/580)*4503*$ '3&&4)087*4*5La Calle de los Titeres*/5)&0/45*56$*?/ 3*7"-4%3"84.6-5*56%&4 /: PLAYING SPORTS #"33*008&7&3*5*4"%7*4 (".&#&58&&/-&"%*/('005 "#-&50$)&$,*'5)&4)08 #"--5&".4*46/'03(&55"#-& *4"*.&%0/-:"51"/*4) 8)*-&" "."5$) 035&>04"3&646"--:"$5*7& 41&",*/("6%*&/$&4 #&58&&/ 0$"6/*034"/% 1&01-&"/%.04564&5)&*3 &7&3"-."+037&/6&4"3& *7&3-"5&*4"$-"4)0' -0$"-1"3,035)&)6(&(3&&/ %&4*(/&%'03$)*-%3&/*/$-6% /"5*0/"-*.1035"/$&*7&3 48"5)&0'1"3,4"/%1-";"4 */(5)&Museo de los Niños*/ -"5&4 0/6.&/5"- 5"%*6. #&58&&/64&0%& &--"4 5)& #"4504)011*/(."-- *4#*(#65/057&3:"5.04 35&4"/%"326&%& 1)&3*$8)*-&" 0$"4" &30'03+0((*/(03$:$-*/( )&.64&6.5",&4$)*-%3&/

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6&/04 *3&4"/%6$6.

DIRECTORY ENTERTAINMENT GUIDES AND TICKETS Cartelera Baires Ave Corrientes 1382. City Map 3 D4. Tel (011) 4372-5058.

Clarín www.clarin.com.ar

Curiocity www.curiocitytravel.com

El Tangauta www.eltanguata.com

Teatro Opera

Maluco Beleza

Vélez Sarsfield

Ave Corrientes 860. City Map 3 D4. Tel (011) 4326-1335.

Sarmiento 1728. City Map 2 C4. Tel (011) 4372-1737.

Avenida Juan B. Justo 9200. Tel (011) 4642-0643. www.velezsarsfield. com.ar

TANGO SHOWS AND CLASSES

Mint

Estados Unidos 299. City Map 1 E1. Tel (011) 4362-6086.

Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado. Tel (011) 4771-5870.

Centro Cultural Torquato Tasso

www.getout.com.ar

La Nación

Club Gricel

www.lanacion.com.ar

La Rioja 1180. Tel (011) 4957-7157.

Tangol Tel (011) 4312-7276. www.tangol.com

Ticketek www.ticketek.com.ar

Ticketmaster Tel (011) 4321-9700.

Time Out www.timeout.com.ar

MUSIC AND DANCE Estadio Obras Ave del Libertador 7395. Tel (011) 4702-3223.

Gran Rex Ave Corrientes 857. City Map 3 D4. Tel (011) 4322-8000.

Confitería Ideal Suipacha 384. City Map 3 D4. Tel (011) 5265-8069.

La Esquina de Carlos Gardel www.esquinacarlos gardel.com.ar

Piazzolla Tango www.piazzollatango.com

ND Ateneo Paraguay 918. City Map 3 D4. Tel (011) 4328-2888.

Notorious Avenida Callao 966. City Map 2 C4. Tel (011) 4815-8473. www.notorious.com.ar

Rodriguez Pena 1220. City Map 2 C4. Tel (011) 4812-3584.

CLASSICAL MUSIC AND THEATER Auditorio San Rafael Ramallo 2606, Nuñez. Tel (011) 4702-9888.

Club de Amigos Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3885. City Map 5 F2. Tel (011) 4801-1213. www.clubdeamigos. org.ar

Club Hípico

Catedral de San Isidro

Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 4800. City Map 5 F2. Tel (011) 4778-1982.

Ave del Libertador 16199. Tel (011) 4743-0291.

Megatlon Gym

Espacio Callejón

www.megatlon.com

Festival Internacional de Buenos Aires

Café La Biela

www.festivaldeteatroba. com

Avenida del Libertador 2136, San Fernando. City Map 2 B2. Tel (011) 4725-0260.

Café Tortoni

Ave Figueroa Alcorta 7997. Tel (011) 47891200.

The Shamrock

Avenida Dorrego 4045. City Map 5 E1. Tel (011) 4778-7060. www.clubaleman. com.ar

BARS AND CLUBS

www.senortango.com.ar

Balcarce 460. City Map 1 E1. Tel (011) 4342-7650.

Monumental Stadium

Tel (011) 4779-9396. www.nicetoclub.com

Club Alemán

Renosto Nautica y Deportes

Señor Tango

La Trastienda

Bouchard 465. City Map 3 E4. Tel (011) 5279-5279.

Niceto Vega Club

PLAYING SPORTS

Humahuaca 3759. Tel (011) 4862-1167.

Ave Quintana 596. City Map 2 C2. Tel (011) 4804-0449. www.labiela.com

Luna Park

Ave Santa Fe 4389. City Map 5 D3.

Bar Sur

Defensa 1575. City Map 1 E2. Tel (011) 4307-6506.

getOut!

Metropolis

Avenida de Mayo 829. City Map 3 D5. Tel (011) 4342-4328. www.cafetortoni.com.ar

Dadá San Martín 941. City Map 3 E4. Tel (011) 4314-4787.

El Living www.living.com.ar

Kilkenny Marcelo T de Alvear 399. City Map 3 E4. Tel (011) 4312-7291.

La Cigale 25 de Mayo 722. City Map 3 E4. Tel (011) 4312-8275.

Grupo de Teatro Catalinas Sur www.catalinasur.com.ar

Teatro Avenida Avenida de Mayo 222. City Map 3 D5. Tel (011) 4381-0662.

SPECTATOR SPORTS Asociación Argentina de Tenis www.aat.com.ar

Ferrocarril Oeste www.ferrocarriloeste. com.ar

Hipódromo de San Isidro www.hipodromosan isidro.com

Unión Argentina de Rugby www.uar.com.ar

ENTERTAINMENT FOR CHILDREN La Calle de los Titeres Avenida Caseros 1750. Tel (011) 4305-0372.

Museo de los Niños Avenida Corrientes 3247. Tel (011) 4861-2325. www.museoabasto.org. ar/home.php

Parque de la Costa Vivanco 1509. Tel (011) 4002-6000. www.parquedelacosta. com

Parque Temaikén Ruta Provincial 25, Vivonce 1509, Escobar. Tel (03488) 436-900. www.temaiken.com.ar

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Female gaucho herding cattle on the Pampas plains

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Plaza Mariano Moreno Bounded by Calles 12, 14, 54, & 50. Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción Tel (0221) 424-0112. 8am–noon, 2–9pm daily. Palacio Municipal Tel (0221) 4271535. 9am–5pm Mon–Fri.

Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción5)':+*54:.+

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The red-brick façade of Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p278 and p296

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Road Map C3. 35 miles (55 km) SW of Buenos Aires. 580,000. Calle 5, 1728; (0221) 425-2195.

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Museo de La Plata See pp142–3. Paseo del Bosque Avenida 1 & Plaza Rivadavia. daily

Casa de Gobierno nestled within its leafy garden environs

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Pasaje Dardo Rocha Plaza San Martín, Calle 50 between Aves 6 & 7. Tel (0221) 425-1990. 8am–10pm daily .

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Casa de Gobierno Plaza San Martín, Calle 6 between Aves 51 & 53. Tel (0221) 429-4185. 8am–10pm daily.

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A saber-toothed tiger statue at the entrance to the museum

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STAR FEATURES

Jawbones of the Blue +"'%"",," '""'-)+-(-!3((%( 2",)%2 '-! " '-"#0(',(-!%.0!%+ !" !%" !- %,(('(-+-!"+,&)%,(%%-2 '-.+%",-"%%"&'+2.,('"'-!-!'-.+2 For hotels and restaurants in this region see p278 and p296

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Paseo del Bosque s/n. Tel (0221) 425-7744. 10am–6pm Tue– Sun, 10am–10pm Sat. Jan 1, May 1, Dec 24, 25, & 31. 9am–2pm Mon–Fri. www.fcnym.unlp.edu.ar/ abamuse.html

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>3F7<7.88=12, ,*=1.-;*5*7-=1. /*68><;.52,2= 9;8=.,=<2<.*<25B =1.=8@7<+200.<= -;*@$=*;=2708>= *<*<6*55,1*9.5 2=@*<+>25=>9 [email protected] *7- *7-1*<.=1. ;.*5<=87.-.=*25< *7-*,2;,>5*; <=*27.-05*<<@27 -8@-.92,=270 =1.'2;027*;B $>;;8>7-270=12< @27-8@*;.<=*=>.< 8/=1. *98<=5.< *7-=1./8>;.?*7 0.52<=<%1.,*=1. -;*5,*7+..7=.;.- =1;8>0187.8/=1. =1;..1>0.+;87C. -88;<=1.=.;;* ,8==*<=*=>.8/=1. '2;027*;B2< <=8;.-+.127-=1. *5=*;27=1.*6*;H7 -.5*'H;0.7

%1.,855.,=287.A12+2=<2=.6< ;.5*=.-=8=1.*;.*<12<=8;B 27,5>-270*;*70.8/,85872*5 <25?.;@*;.%1. *>,18 ><.>61*<.A12+2=<255>62 7*=270=1.12<=8;B8/=1. 0*>,18@125.=1.%;*7<98;= ><.>6-2<95*B<=1.,8>7 =;B6.7=< *7-6.6.7=8<;.5*=270=8 ;0.7=27*<9;.<2-.7=< Estancia Los Talas 12 miles (20 km) E of Luján. Tel (02323) 494-995.

8;.=1*73><=*78=1.; *==;*,=2?.;*7,18<%*5*< 2<9*;=8/;0.7=272*712<=8;B >25=27 2=@*<,87/2< ,*=.-+B.7.;*5*7>.5-. #8<*< 27 *7-;.=>;7.-=8=1.8;2027*5 8@7.;< B.*;<5*=.;*/=.; #8<*<<-./.*=*==1.*==5.8/ The stunning Basílica Nuestra Señora de Luján *<.;8<#8<*<-2-7=<=*B*= =1.;*7,1+>=+255.=.-<86. 8/12<=;889<=1.;.*7-5.=12<

Complejo Museográfico 18;<.<0;*C.87=1.9*<=>;.< Enrique Udaondo Road Map C3. 45 miles (70 km) W Lezica 917. Tel (02323) 420-245. 8@*18=.5=1.<9;*@5270 of Buenos Aires. 94,000. noon−6pm Wed−Fri, 10:15am− .<=*7,2*<=255;.=*27;72<1270< *7->72/8;6<=1*=-*=./;86 www.lujanargentina.com 6pm Sat, Sun, & public hols. =12; =1.68<=2698;=*7= *92=*58/=1.*2=1>3F7 6><.>6<18><.- 27=1.,8>7=;B 8@.<2=<.A2<=.7,.=8* @2=127=12<,86 ,869;2<270 D62;*,5.E 7 *=.;;*,8==* 95.A@12,12< 8?.; <=*=>.==.8/=1.'2;027*;B 6*-.>98/=1. @*<+.270=;*7<98;=.-/;86 ?85>6.< = /8;6.; 27,5>-.<1*7- ;*C25=8".;>+B8A,*;== =8@71*55*7- @;2==.7+884< =1.<98=@1.;.>3F7<,*=1. *<*-.5'2;;.B -;*578@<=*7-<=1.,*;=08= /;86=1. =1,.7 '2,.;8B< Velocipedo display, <=>,4 %*4.7*<*-2?27.127= #.<2-.7,. %1. Transport Museum =>;B*7>6+.;8/ =1*==1.<=*=>.@*<-.<=27.- .-2=287<9;27=.- 9;27,29*5,855.,=2872< =8=;*?.578/*;=1.;*,1*9.5 *==1. @12,1@*< +./8;. *7-9;2,.5.<< @*<+>25==818><.=1.;.52, 87,.*9;2<87/*68><9*<= *;,12?.<8/=1.@8;4<8/<86. ";.<.7=5B>3F7*==;*,=<*7 276*=.<1.;.27,5>-..7.;*5 8/ ;0.7=27*<68<=/*68>< .<=26*=.-<2A62552879250;26< *;=8586G2=;. 27/5>.7=2*5=1274.;< *B.*;*7-=18><*7-<8/ 9.895.6*4.=1.=;29/;86 >.78< 2;.<87/88=%1.;. *;.*5<8.A,.55.7=;.<=*>;*7=< *7-,*/G<*;8>7-=1.=8@7< ,.7=;*5<:>*;.

Basílica Nuestra Señora

de Luján San Martín 51. Tel (02323) 420-058. 7am–8pm daily. 10am–5pm Mon–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat & Sun. 8–11am, 5pm & 7pm daily. www.basilicadelujan.org.ar

(2=12=< /= 61201 =@27<92;.<=8@.;2706*3.< =2,*55B8?.;=1."*69*<

The lush environs of Complejo Museográfico Enrique Udaondo

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p278 and p296

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Pulpería La Blanqueada at Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes

Road Map C3. 70 miles (115 km) NW of Buenos Aires. 20,000.

Dia de la Tradicion (weekend nearest to Nov 12). www.sanantoniodeareco.com

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

6*7>/*,=>;.*-1.;.,58<.5B =8=;*-2=287*56.=18-<*7- ,5*<<2,-.<207<8/0*>,18 <25?.;@*;.+>=*5<827,8;98 ;*=.<>+=5.68-.;7=@2<=< '2<2=8;<,*7@*=,1=1.6*4270 8/*;*70.8/2=.6<27,5>-270 <9>;<+.5=+>,45.<+.5=<*7- <=2;;>9<%1.2718><. 6><.>61*<=@8.A12+2=287 *;.*<-.?8=.-=8?2<>*5*;= .2=1.;27<92;.-+B8;-2;.,=5B ;.5*=.-=80*>,18=1.6.< !?.; 92.,.<*;.87-2<95*B *=*7B=26.>2-.<.A95*27 =1.12<=8;B8/0*>,18<25?.; @*;.*7-=1.*,,.<<8;2.<=1*= *,8@+8B@.*;<

6><.>6,8695.A@12,1 Estancia El Ombú 89.7.-27 ,869;2<.< <.?.;*589.7*2;*7-.7,58<.- 5 miles (8 km) NW of San Antonio .A12+2=287<9*,.<!7.8/=1. de Areco. Tel (02326) 492-080. +.<=478@72<=1.">59.;H** www.estanciaelombu.com 5*7:>.*-**=*?.;7=1*= %1. =;..><.-=8+. /.*=>;.-27K2;*5-.<< 478@7*<=1.D5201=18><.8/ %1. =1."*69*<E+.,*><.2=@*< 6><.>62<68<=5B-.-2 8/=.7=1.875B<1*-. ,*=.-=8=1.*>=18; 0*>,18<,8>5-/27-@1.7 =18>012=*5<8.A12+2=< ,;8<<270.7-5.<<0;*<< 9*27=270<+B<.?.;*5 5*7-< =2<*/2==2707*6. /8;*@.5,86270.<=*7,2* ;0.7=272*7*7- =1*=8//.;<0>.<=<186. &;>0>*B*7*;=2<=<%1. 6*-./88-0>2-.- +>25-2702=<.5/@2=12=< 18;<.;2-.<*7-.?.7 ,85872*5=25.<=;.552< *;8>7-8/085/%1. @27-8@<*7-9*=28< +8@.;.-@2=19*56 Silver stirrups, Taller y +.*>=2/>56*27 18><.@*<+>25=27 =;..<2<*95.*<*7= Museo de Platería Criollo y Civil /8;.7.;*5 95*,.=8?2<2= #2,,12.;2@18<.

Taller y Museo de Platería =*52*71.;2=*0.1.59.- -.=.;627.=1.<=B5.8/=1. Criolla y Civil Lavalle 387. Tel (02326) 454-219. 9274,858;.-?27.,5*- 10am–12:30pm, 3:30–6pm daily. 9*5*CC8 %1.9*;42<<=>77270 -8==.-@2=1,.7=>;B85-8*4 =;..<*;*>,*;2*<.>,*5B9=2 8;<. %1. <25?.;<62=1@2=1*727=.;7* ;*7,1*5<81*<*,855.,=287 =287*5;.9>=*=2872<@8;4 <189*7-6><.>6*;.18><.- 8/85-@.*987;B 27* =1,.7=>;B7.8,5*<<2,*5 =*52*7*=.6*7<287 %1.92.,.< Estancia La Bamba =1*=;*012*7-12<=.*6 8 miles (13 km) NW of San Antonio de Areco. Tel (02326) 456-293. www.la-bamba.com.ar

Museo Gauchesco

Ricardo Güiraldes Caminar Güiraldes s/n°. Tel (02326) 455-839. 11am–5pm Wed–Mon. 3:30pm Mon–Fri, 12:30pm & 3:30pm Sat, Sun.

,,.<<.-+B,;8<<270*+;2-0. 8?.; #H8 ;.,8*==1.78;=1 .;7.-0.8/=1.=8@7=12<

Silversmiths working at the Taller y Museo de Platería Criolla y Civil

[email protected]+B=1.5-*8/*625B /8;<.?.;*50.7.;*=287<* *6+*2<9.;/.,=/8;*=*<=.8/ =;*-2=287*50*>,1852/.$.92* <8*4.-/*625B918=80;*91< 527.=1.@*55<*7-=1.;886< *;./255.-@2=1*7=2:>.;.7,1 />;72<1270<%1.;.2<*;.,87 <=;>,=.- <6*55 0;8,.;B<=8;.*7-.<=*7,2* *,=2?2=2.<<>,1*<18;<.;2-270 *;.*?*25*+5.**6+*2<*5<8 /*68>

View of gauchos herding cattle on the sweeping Pampas plains

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=(906<:4(905,:7,*04,5: -964(9+,3 3(;(:>(;,9: (:>,33(:+0:73(@:6- *65;,4769(9@(9;(5+ *<3;<9(36)1,*;:

Road Map C3. 250 miles (400 km) S of Buenos Aires.

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

Museo Municipal de

Ciencias Naturales Lorenzo Scaglia Avenida Libertad 3099. Tel (0223) 473-8791. Jan–Feb: 6–11pm; Mar–Dec: varies. www.grupopaleo.com.ar/ museoscaglia

90.05(33@-6<5+,+05 ;/0:,?*,33,5;4<:,<4/6<:,: Shells from around the world ;/,,?;,5:0=,-6::03*633,*;065 6-6569,5A6"*(.30(>/6 displayed in Museo del Mar 46=,+;69.,5;05(-964;(3@ Museo del Mar 05 (5+:,;;3,+05<,56: Avenida Colón 1114. Tel (0223) 09,:#/,4<:,<446=,+;6 451-9779. Jan–Feb: 10am–11pm 0;:*<99,5;36*(;06505 daily; Mar–Dec: varies. :>,33(:,?/0)0;05.-6::03: 6–11pm. -964(336=,9;/,>693+;/, :/905,;62,,5*633,*;69 4<:,<4/(:(5<4),96- ,51(405"0:;,95(<:,6+,3 >,3369.(50A,+,?/0)0;065 (90:)<03;(96<5+ :7(*,:+,=6;,+;6 /0:*633,*;0656-:,( +0--,9,5;+0:*07305,: :/,33:"0:;,95(:7,5; >0;/05;/,5(;<9(3 :*0,5*,:05*3<+05. 46:;6-/0:(+<3;30-, .,636.@7(3,65 :*6<905.;/,>693+: ;636.@6950;/636.@ ),(*/,:-699(9, (5+;(?0+,94@#/,9, :(473,:4(5(.05.;6 0:(=(:;*633,*;065 7(*26=,9 A butterfly display, 6-:;<--,+)09+: 05;6/0:25(7:(*2 Museo de Ciencias Naturales 05*3<+05. 6=,9;/,*6<9:,6- (5+ #/,

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

A sunny day at the busy seaside resort of Mar del Plata For hotels and restaurants in this region see p278 and p296

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"

Centro Cultural Villa Victoria Matheu 1851. Tel (0223) 492-0569. Jan–Feb: 1–10pm Wed–Mon; Mar–Dec: varies.

-05,>90;,905;,33,*;<(3(5+ *90;0*%0*;690(*(47605-3< ,5*,+46:;6-9.,5;05(: 46+,9530;,9(9@.9,(;:"/, >(:256>5(:(5,?*,33,5; /6:;,::(5+;/,:609E,::/, 69.(50A,+(;/,9=033(>,9, -(46<:"/,0:4,5;065,+05 9(/(4 9,,5,:+,+0*(;065 ;6/0:>,33256>556=,3

<03;)@ The exterior of Museo Municipal de /,9-(;/,9(:(79,:,5;;6/,9 Arte Juan Carlos Castagnino (<5;;/,),(<;0-<3/6<:,>(: Fishing trawlers at the harbor in 05/,90;,+)@*(47605;/, Banquina de Pescadores Museo Municipal de Arte : #/,>90;,930=,+/,9, Juan Carlos Castagnino 05;,940;;,5;3@<5;03/,9+,(;/ Colón 1189. Tel (0223) 451–3553. 05 "/,),8<,(;/,+;/, Banquina de Pescadores Jan–Feb: 5–10pm Wed–Fri; Mar– )<03+05.;6$"05 South of city center, past Plaza Dec: varies. Grande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astagnino’s self;6>505(:;@3,;/(; :/077,+;6<,56: >/6/(=,4(+,;/,769;;/,09 portrait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he famous literary retreat Centro Cultural Villa Victoria, Mar del Plata

! # ! & !

5,6/4+962'4:+**;8/4-:.+ 9'4* 95;4*+*/4 (?;4/).(584'8)./ :+):58-+;4-+/4'3'8 ='9(;/2:=/:.')2+'8
Road Map D3. 62 miles (100 km) NE of Mar del Plata. 26,000. Ave 3, (02255) 478-042.

Patron Saint (Jul), Beer Festival (Aug). www.gesell.gov.ar

?5;4-9:+89'9:.+8+'8+62+4:? 5,(+').'):/
;9:3/2+9 1395;:.5, +9+22/9Faro Querandi'2/-.: .5;9+(;/2:/4

:' .+/-.:5, ,:

#.+(+').8+958:5, 3=/:.':5:'25, +9+22='9542?' *8+'3=.+454 9:+69:./9:5=+8/9 '8259 *'.5 +9+22 9:/22/49+86'49+ Carlos Gesell 5,9256+9=/:./:9 +9+22;9+;3'4* 685:+):+*:.+*;4+9(?62'4: )5362+>+)59?9:+39;6658:9 */<+89+-8'99+9'4*3'33'29 /4-9+<+8'2;9:8'2/'4')')/' :8++9?:.+ 9/:.'* (+)53+',2+*-2/4-:5;8/9: 8+958:'2:.5;-.:.+:5=4='9 542?5,,/)/'22?,5;4*+*/4 Road Map D3. 12 miles (20 km) N 5=$/22'+9+22/9,/22+* =/:.2/<+2?8+9:';8'4:9('89 of Villa Gesell. 22,000. Bunge 654, (02254) 491-680. '4*4/-.:)2;(9#.+8+/9' =/*+8'4-+5,.5:+29,853 www.pinamar.com.ar (+*'4*(8+'1,'9:9:5/449 '4* 25*-+9 #.+8+958::5=45,/4'3'8/9 +9+22/9656;2'8=/:. 9;885;4*+*(?,8'-8'4:)569+9

One of the greener beach resorts in Argentina, Chapadmalal For hotels and restaurants in this region see p278 and p296

Road Map C3. 14 miles (23 km) S of Mar del Plata. 2000. www.chapadmalal.org.ar

4/4*/-+45;94'3+ 3+'4/4-A(+:=++49:8+'39C .'6'*3'2'2/954+5,:.+ -8++4+9:8+958:954:.+ :2'4:/))5'9:::.++4*5, :.+ :.)+4:;8?:.+:5=4 ='9145=43'/42?,58' 8'4).5=4+*(?,5;4*+8'4* ,/89:68+9/*+4:5,:.+:.+4 8+)+4:2?)8+':+*;+<' "5)/+*'* !;8'2 8-+4:/4' 59F #'8:G4+@*+5@ %.+4.+*/+*/4 :.+ 8'4).='9*/
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# "

Road Map C3. 32 miles (52 km) NW of Mar del Plata. 42,000. Calle 17, (02266) 425-758.

National Potato Fiesta (Mar).

Rows of tents lining Miramar beach on a sunny day

59: 8-+4:/4/'49'995)/':+ :.+4'3+5,'2)'8)+=/:. )'8965:':5+9'4*93'22 :8'*/:/54'2)551/+9)'22+* #.+2'4*'85;4*:.+ :5=4/9+96+)/'22?-55*,58 -85=/4-65:':5+9-8'/49'4* '853':/)-8'99+9,58:.+3'4? )'::2+8+'8/4-,'839#./925= 1+?8+958::5=4/9656;2'8 =/:. ;+459 /8+9,'3/2/+9 #.+:5=4/9,'35;9'9 (+/4-:.+(/8:.62')+5,;'4 '4;+2'4-/5'4*:.+

=/*+9:8/65,*;4+9/9)'23+8 '4*358+6/):;8+97;+:.'4 Road Map C3. 25 miles (40 km) :.+./-.8/9+(+').9/*+*+<+2 S of Mar del Plata. Ave 563+4:9:.':62'-;+:.+ Costanera & Calle 21, (02291) 420(;9/+88+958:9:5:.+458:. 190. www.miramar.gov.ar Museo del Automovilismo '2,'*5@+4(+').+968+::? Juan Manuel Fangio/9' =55*9'2'1+'4'36./ %+22145=4'9'8+958:,58 656;2'8:5;8/9:9/:+254:.+':+8/4:.+Parque Miguel =/:.95))+89:'8'8'*54' ,'3/2/+9'4*)./2*8+4/8'3'8 Lillo,599/29':;4:' '4*:+44/962'?+8;/22+835 '('22/*5'4*:.+:.8/:8+3+2?65= :.+2'::+8:551./9 +-8'0;9:3/2+9 +8,;2='<+(8+'19 9/>:.:/:2+/4 13,853:.+ /-.8/9+(;/2*/4-9 #.+3;9+;3/9 )+4:+82/::2+ 5<+89.'*5=:.+3'/46853 Juan Manuel Fangio on .5;9+*/4' )+4:;8?52* +4'*+(;:'9.58:='21'='? ,'8:.+8;6:.+)5'9: one of his races (;/2*/4-,/22+*=/:. /9:.+Vivero Dunícola /9;+<'*+2#/-8+ '4-/53+358'(/2/''4*' Florentino Ameghino'-85;6 ,'35;9,58/:9,/9./4-965:9 5,,58+9:+**;4+9+8+:.+8+ 93'22'4/9.)533;4/:? )522+):/545,52*)'89#.+ 359:/368+99/<++>./(/:/9 '4*'9/-4/,/)'4:'97;+ /9'('8(+);+'8+''93'22 )533;4/:?:.8/<+/4:.+:5=4 25)':+*54:.+:56,2558B 4':;8+3;9+;3')./2*8+49 "53+ '97;+8+9:';8'4:9.+8+ :.+58/-/4'2+8)+*+9+4@ 62'?-85;4*'4*:.+597;+ 96+)/'2/@+/425)'29+',55* 4+8-F:/)54+8-?%55* "/2<+8 885=:.':'4-/5 =.+8+'4;4;9;'2<'8/+:?5, *85<+:5

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Horse riding on a sunny evening in the open countryside outside Tandil city

30-,05$(5+03,=,9:05*,;/, <,9;, 5+,7,5+,5*0(69;6- Road Map C3. 100 miles (160 km) 5+,7,5+,5*,>(:)<03;65 S of Buenos Aires. 110,000. ;/,:0;,05 ;>(:9(A,+ Ave Espora 1120, (02293) 432 @,(9:3(;,9;64(2,>(@ 073. www.tandil.gov.ar -69;/,;6>5:,?7(5:065$/, 5,(9)@5,66;/0* Templo $/,(;;9(*;0=,;6>56-$(5+03 de la Inmaculada Concepción 5,:;3,:(465.#0:;,4(+, )<03;05 05*69769(;,: $(5+030( $/,:,(9,.,5;3@ :;65,:-964;/,-69; <5+<3(;05..9(50;,/033:;/(; $(5+03: Museo de Bellas 90:,;6()6<; -;

4 Artes36*(;,+:6<;/6-;/, ()6=,:,(3,=,3$/,;6>5 73(A()6(:;:>692:)@36*(3 6--,9:>,,2,5+)9,(2:;6 (9;0:;:(:>,33(:(/(5+-<3 769;,D6:>/6>(5;(.,;(>(@ 6-4056970,*,:)@(*256> ;6;/,/033:)<;*(556;;9(=,3 3,+.,+ 9.,5;050(54(:;,9: (:-(9(:;/,5+,: $(5+030: :<*/(:,950(5+!<058<,3( ,?;9,4,3@767<3(9+<905. (9;C5 69;/6- 3(A( (:;,9;/,;04,>/,5;/, 5+,7,5+,5*0(0:(56;/,9 #;(;065:6-;/,96::796 05;,9,:;05.:0;,;/,Museo Tradicionalista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

Road Map C3. 20 miles (30 km) NW of Sierra de la Ventana village. Avedel Golf s/n°, Sierra de la Ventana; (0291) 491-5303 .

$/, (47(:9,.0650:46:;3@ <5+<3(;05.)<;;/,#0,99(+, 3(%,5;(5(90:,:;6469,;/(5 -; 4()6=,:,( 3,=,3 $/,9(5.,0:5(4,+ (-;,9;/, >05+6> (96*2-694(;06565;/,;(33,:; 6-0;:7,(2:,996+,3( %,5;(5($/0::<440;0: :0;<(;,+>0;/05 (98<, 96=05*0(395,:;6$6958<0:; $/,9(5.,0:469,9<..,+ ;/(5#0:;,4(+,$(5+030((5+ 0:(767<3(9:76;-696<;+669 (+=,5;<9,+9(>05./02,9: *304),9:*@*30:;:/69:,)(*2 90+,9:(:>,33(:*(:<(3>,,2 ,5+,9: $/,(9,(0:(3:6767 <3(9>0;/5(;<9,36=,9:(:0; :<7769;:(3(9.,=(90,;@6-

Museo de Bellas Artes Chacabuco 367. Tel (02293) 432067. 8:30am–12:30pm, 5–9pm Tue–Fri. Jan.

Giant crucifix at the top of Monte Calvario, east of Tandil

Museo Tradicionalista 4 de Abril 851. Tel (02293) 435573. 4–8pm Tue–Sun.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p278 and p296

The “window” formation at the summit of Cerro de la Ventana

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Road Map C3. 14 miles (22 km) NW of Sierra de la Ventana town. Tel (0291) 491-0039. Jan– Feb: 8am–5:30pm daily; Mar–Dec: 9am–5pm daily.

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The quiet Estancia Cerro de la Cruz surounded by greenery

Road Map C3. 2 miles (3 km) E of Sierra de la Ventana village.

www.estanciacerrodelacruz. com

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THE MOUNTAINS OF THE PAMPAS 65.),-69,;/,*(;(*3@:4:;/(;)96<./;()6<;;/,5+,: */(05=063,5;.,636.0*(346=,4,5;:),5,(;/;/, (47(: -69*,+;/,3(5+<7>(9+:;6 B-; B 4 ()6=,:,(3,=,3$/,;>64(059(5.,:(9,#0,99(+,3( %,5;(5((5+#0:;,4(+,$(5+030( $/,-694,90:-694,+ 4(053@-964:,+04,5;(9@96*2+(;05.-964;/, (3,6A60* 7,906+ B

4033065@,(9:(.6(5+0;:*663)3<,:(5+ .9,@:4(2,-69(:;90205.*65;9(:;>0;/;/, (47(::79,(+ ),36> $/,1(..,+90+.,:(5+/0./7,(2:4,(5;9,2205. *(5),*/(33,5.05.#0:;,4(+,$(5+030(0:63+,9>0;/ -694(;065:+(;05.)(*2;6;/, 9,*(4)90(57,906+ B

4033065@,(9:(.6(5+/(::466;/*<9=,:0+,(3-69 30./;;9,2:"/,(: /(>2:(94(+0336:(5+ <967,(5/(9,:(9,*64465:0./;:65;/,:,/0./3(5+:

View of the Sierra de la Ventana rising from the Pampas plains

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<:),1<176)4 ;-:>- ;<-)3;)6,8);<);>-:A=6- );<0-47+)4;):- 367?68)A075)/-<7<0- <)41)6;)16<$)6$14>-:17<0- 8)<:76;)16<7..1;0-:5-6 Museo del Puerto Guillermo Torres 4180. Tel (0291) 457-3006. 9am–1pm Mon–Fri. www.bahiablanca.gov.ar/ mpuerto/

Barber shop kept intact inside Museo del Puerto, Bahía Blanca

Road Map C3. 75 miles (120 km) NW of Bahía Blanca. 100,000. Ave Luro 400, (02954) 425-060.

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Marsh deer, a common sight in the breathtaking natural preserve Esteros del Iberá

Paul the Apostle carved in stone at the ruins of San Ignacio Miní, Misiones

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Plaza 25 de Mayo Ave Córdoba and Buenos Aires.

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-,1+)<-,<7<0-=*)6 :->74=<176):A0-:7:6-;<7 0- =->):)<01;5=;-=5 *:16/;<767<1+-01;*1:<084)+- D "7;):177;<7.<0- 1<-5;?-:-,76)<-,*A.)514A )6,.:1-6,;7.0-16+4=,16/ 4*-:<7 :)6),7;?07;- The majestic Puente Rosario-Victoria bridge over Río Parana 27=:6-A?1<00-)+:7;;)<16 La Costanera Monumento Nacional a 5-:1+)?);1557:<)41B-, Avenida Belgrano. Museo de la Bandera 16<0- 57>1- Arte Contemporáneo Rosario Avenida Santa Fe 581. www.monu @01*1<; (MACRO) Ave Estanislao López mentoalabandera.gov.ar 16+4=,-0-;+75*)<=61 2250. Tel (0341) 480-4981. Jan– "7;):17;76=5-6<7)+176)4 .7:5;?01+00-?7:-,=:16/ Feb: 4–10pm; Mar–Dec: 2–8pm. )4))6,-:)+755-57:)<-; <0-=*)6"->74=<176 $0<0-16)=/=:)4071;<16/7.<0- )8):<5-6<*=14,16/?0-:-0- Thu. Spanish only. #<:-<+016/7>-:514-; :/-6<161)6.4)/*A5141<):A ;8-6<01;-):4A16.)6+A;<)6,; 35 "7;):17; 0-:7-6-:)4)6=-4 1-?;7."G7 ):)6F<1<; 16 $0-?7:37.):+01<-+< +-;;1*4-<7<0-8=*41+ ;7=<0-:6-6,1;<0-8:-<-:;-/-7/ 7=;-,?1<016)*:1/0<4A :)80A -6-:)4 -4/:)67; 8)16<-, ;147 Museo de Arte :-5)16;41-16)+:A8<)<<0- Contemporáneo Rosario *);-7.<0-<7?-:.:75?0-:- (MACRO)1;)67=<;<)6,16/ -@)584-7.<0-):-);>1*:)6< )41.<+415*;<7?):,;1<;;=5 51<7..-:16/8)67:)51+>1;<); +=4<=:)441.- 7.+1-:=1,7; 476/<0-:1>-:.:76<; 67:<0-:6;-+<176):-<0-:1>-: ,-;1/61;+7584-<-,*A<0- Patio Cívico+1>1++7=:-;<1*=4- 6<0->-61,) #)6<)-;1,-7.<0->-;<1*=4- ?)<-:.:76<8:75-6),-)6, <0- Puente Rosario-Victoria 1; Galería de Honor a las Banderas)5=;-=5<0)< ) ;=;8-6;176*:1,/-416316/ Entrance to Che Guevara’s first 0767:;<0-6)<176)4.4)/;7. "7;):17?1<0<0-6-1/0*7:16/ home in Rosario <0-5-:1+); 8:7>16+-7.6<:-"G7; For hotels and restaurants in this region see p279 and p297

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Road Map C2. 186 miles (290 km) from Buenos Aires. 1,200,000. Ave Belgrano y Buenos Aires, (0341) 480-2230. Sat, Sun. La Semana de la Bandera (Jun), Fiesta Nacional de Colectividades (Nov). www.rosario.gov.ar

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2%8-:)'6%*87368,3*8,) 40%>% Parque Urquiza %6%2@749&0-'4%6/()7')2(7 8,)&%2/3*C3%6%2@ 83;%6(74%01*6-2+)(&)%',)7 3%87838,)*%'-2+-70%2(7 ()4%686)+90%60=*6318,) 6-:)67;%8)6*6328

Road Map C2. 62 miles (100 km) N of Rosario. 25 de Mayo 389, Diamante; (0343) 498-3535. daily.

6)%8)(-2 %659) %'-32%06))08%4638)'87 751-0)7 75/13* 79&8634-'%0;)80%2(7 !,) 0%2(7'%4)-7%137%-'3* 1%67,0%2(*03%8-2+-70%2(7 View of a water channel, Parque 0%/)7%2((6%-2%+)',%22)07 Nacional Pre-Delta !,)-70%2(7)(+)(&=097, *36)787%6)1%6/)(%88,)-6 ')28)67&=())4%01378 Road Map C2. 84 miles (136 km) N 4)61%2)280=-292(%8)( of Rosario. 238,000. ()46)77-327!,)7)*361 0%+33278,%8,%6&368,)4%6/7 Ave Buenos Aires 132, (0343) 423-0183. Festival Provincial del 1%-2&38%2-'%0*)%896)8,) $'#.8,)+-%28#-'836-%;%8)6 Mate (Feb). www.parana.gov.ar 0-0=;,-',7-87328,) ,-7836-'()78-2%8-32 ;%8)67796*%')0-/)% %6%2@-7,31)83*-2) *03%8-2+&3;0 8,')2896=%6',-8)'896) =6-%(&-6( %2(032+786)8',)73*6-:)6 74)'-)7-2'09(-2+8,) &)%',)7 8;%7()'0%6)( 6-2+)(/-2+*-7,)6;,-', '%4-8%03*8,)6+)28-2-%2 -78,)4%6/77=1&30 32*)()6%8-32-2 %2(291)63970%6+) %2(32-871%-2759%6) ;%(-2+&-6(7%6))%7-0= 0%>%6-1)63()%=3 7-+,8)( 8,)6%2-1%07 -2'09()8,)7)1- Colorful ringed 78%2(78,)30(Antiguo Senado de la %59%8-' '%4=&%6% kingfisher Confederación8,) "#'%2(%4349 0%8-323*&63%(237)('%-1%2 2%8-3278,)27)%83*+3:)62 7320=%*6%'8-323*8,)4%6/ 1)28 62%1)28)(&='0%77-' -7%'')77-&0)&=*3388,)6)%6) 8%0-%2%8)*3928%-27%2(+&+ 4%0178,)40%>%-7*6328)(&= &3%8)<'967-3278,%8)1&%6/ *6318,)4%6/7)286=43-28%8 Palacio Municipal Escuela La Jaula !,)032+)7832) Normal Paraná%2(8,)2)3 2%:-+%8)78,)2%663;;%8)6 )2%-77%2')*%A%()3*8,) Catedral Municipal !,6)) ',%22)0783Isla Las Mangas ;,)6)8,)6)-7%,-/-2+86%-0 &03'/7;)783*8,)40%>%-78,) 8,%80)%(783Laguna Los )<')00)28 Museo y Mercado Baños !,-70%/)-73*8)2 Provincial de Artesanías '3:)6)(;-8,$'#.% ;,-',(-740%=7%2(7)007

Museo y Mercado

Provincial de Artesanías Urquiza 1239. Tel (0343) 420-8891. varies (call in advance). Mon.

Road Map C2. 104 miles (167 km) N of Rosario. 370,000. Blvd Galvez & Piedro Vittori, (0342) 457-1881. wwwsantafeturistica.com.ar

8))4)(-2,-7836= %28%) %073,%7%74)'8%'90%6%6',- 8)'896%0,)6-8%+)871378 -14368%28&9-0(-2+7'0978)6 %6392(0%>%

()%=3 !,);,-8);%7,)(*%A%()3* 8,))79-8&9-08 Iglesia Nuestra Señora de los Milagros'32 ')%07%0%:-7,-28)6-368,%8 '328%-27%4%-28-2+3*8,) 11%'90%8)#-6+-2*631 &=%:%-00B30031-2%8-2+ 8,)759%6)77398,)62)2(8,) &)%98-*90 Casa de Gobierno ;%7&9-08328,)7-8)3*8,) '3032-%0 ";,)6)8,) 6+)28-2-%23278-898-32;%7 7-+2)(-2 398,3*8,)759%6)-7 Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco&9-08&)8;))2

%2( ;-8,%&)%98-*900= '327)6:)(-28)6-36786300 %;%=*6318,)',96',-7 Museo Histórico Provincial Brigadier General Estanislao López;,-',*92'8-327;-8,-2

%'3032-%0,397)87:%6-)8= 3*)<,-&-87-2'09()7%28-59) 362%8) & +396(7%2( 92-59)(-740%=7328,) 8, ')2896=7869++0)&)8;))2 "2-8%6-37%2(8,)"659->% 0)()()6%0-787 Iglesia y Convento de San

Francisco Amenábar 2257. 7am–5pm daily. Museo Histórico Provincial

Brigadier General Estanislao López San Martín 12490. Tel (0342) 4573529. Tue–Sun. Tue–Fri. www.museohistorico-sfe.gov.ar The elegant façade of Catedral Municipal, Paraná For hotels and restaurants in this region see p279 and p297

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(5+;/,"(3(+,#9(.,+0( $98<0A(:),+9664>/,9, /,>(:(::(::05(;,+05 <;)<03+05.:05*3<+,(790=(;, */(7,356;()3,-690;: -9,:*6,:(5+695(;,(3;(9 3:6:,;>0;/05;/,.(9+,5: 0:(3(9.,(9;0-0*0(33(2,

Road Map C2. 140 miles (226 km) SE of Paraná. 100,000. Plazoleta de los Artesanos, Paseo del Puerto; (03446) 423-668. Sat. Carnaval (Jan & Feb). www.gualeguaychu.gov.ar

,90=,+-964;/,<(9(5H 7/9(:,-69B90=,96-;/,3(9., 1(.<(9D<(3,.<(@*/J:0;:65 ;/,)(526-0;:5(4,:(2, 90=,9(;90)<;(9@6-!H6 $9<.<(@ ;0:46:;-(46<: -690;:(95(=(3>/,5;/6< :(5+:6-9,=,3,9:+,:*,5+65 ;/0::4(33;6>5;6,516@;/, *6<5;9@:)0..,:;(5+46:; ,?;9(=(.(5;:<44,9*,3, )9(;065,:;0=0;0,:*,5;,9 (96<5+;/,Corsódromo(5 67,57(9(+,.96<5+6=,9 366205. <(3,.<(@*/J:63+ 9(0396(+305,(5+;9(05:;(;065 <;:0+,6-(95(=(3;/, ;6>5(;;9(*;:=0:0;69:-690;: 90=,9),(*/,:>/0*/:;9,;*/ 6=,9 403,: 24Parque Urquiza(*96::;/,90=,9/(: :64,6-;/,46:;767<3(9 ),(*/,:3:656;,>69;/@0: ;/,;6>5:*63650(3(9*/0 ;,*;<9,;>6044(*<3(;,3@ 9,:;69,+,(93@ :()6+,: Azotea de Lapalma(5+Solar de los Haedo(9,67,5;6;/, 7<)30*(:4<:,<4:Instituto Magnasco <(3,.<(@*/J: 4(05*<3;<9(3:7(*,/6<:,: 4(5@36*(3(9;>692:(5+ /0:;690*(3(9;0-(*;:

Azotea de Lapalma San Luis y Jujuy. Tel (03446) 437028. varies (call in advance).

Sun, Mon, & Tue. by prior arrangement (Spanish only).

Solar de los Haedo San José y Rivadavia. Sun, Mon, & Tue. by prior arrangement (Spanish only).

Road Map C2. 180 miles (290 km) SE of Paraná. 22,000. Ave Costanera y Gouchón, (03447) 421996. Fiesta Nacional de Artesanías (Feb). www.colon.gov.ar The grand reception hall at General Urquiza’s Palacio San José

70*;<9,:8<,:,;;3,4,5;65 ;/,>,:;,95)(526-!H6 $9<.<(@;/,30;;3,;6>56- 63I50:;/,7,9-,*;=,5<, Road Map C2. 68 miles (110 km) -69(9,3(?05.)9,(2;: N of Gualeguaychú. Tel (03442) 90=,9:0+,:,;;05.-(*030;(;,:( 432-620. from Concepción del =(90,;@6-(*;0=0;0,:05*3<+05. Uruguay. 8am–7pm Mon–Fri, :>04405.)6(;05.(5+ 9am–6pm Sat & Sun. Spanish 36<5.05.05;/,;/,94(3 only. www.palaciosanjose. >(;,9:6-0;:7<)30*:7( com.ar ;:)(3<:;9(+,+90=,9-965; :;9,;*/,:403,: 24 <03;),;>,,5 (5+6=,93662:(;0;: (5+ ;/0:;(30(5(;, 569;/,95(5+:6<;/,95 7(3(*,>(:(5(9*/0 9,(*/,:365.:,*;065: ;,*;<9(3:;(;,4,5;6- 6-:(5+@7(34-905.,+ ),(*/,:6(;:;6;/, 76>,9(5+05-3<,5*, -(*05.90=,90:3(5+: -699,.065(3

+,7(9;9,.<3(93@-964 (5+,+,9(30:;3,(+,9 ,5,9(3<:;66:G ;/,>(;,9-965;#/, $98<0A( C Bust of General ;6>5:63+,:;)<03+05.: (9,-6<5+*3<:;,9,+ ,*3(9,+(5(;065(3 Justo Urquiza (96<5+;/,769;(9,( 465<4,5;;/,7(3(*, ,9,Estación Fluvial63I5: :0;:05-69,:;,+*6<5;9@:0+, (5+0:9,*6.50A()3,)@;/, 9(0396(+:;(;0650:(5,3,.(5; ;(33>(;*/;6>,9:;/(;:;(5+(; ;(30(5(;,*65:;9<*;065 ,0;/,9,5+6-0;:7052(9*(+,+ ,5*09*3,+)@;(337(34: -(F(+,"<996<5+,+)@4(.50- ",=,9(3469,/0:;690*(3 0*,5;695(4,5;(3.(9+,5:;/, )<03+05.:-965; 3(A("(5 7(3(*,0:)<03;(96<5+;>6 (9;H5(5+;/,4(05=,50+( 055,9*6<9;@(9+:!664: +,)9H35;/,(=,5<, 05*3<+,;/,90*/3@+,*69(;,+ Teatro Centenario0:(>,33 "(3(+,36::7,16:>/,9,;/, 9,:;69,+;/,(;,9+(;05.)(*2 ,5,9(3,5;,9;(05,+.<,:;: ;6

A relaxing day at the beach on the banks of Río Uruguay For hotels and restaurants in this region see p279 and p297

! # "

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Towering yatay palm protected at Parque Nacional El Palmar

Road Map C2. 31 miles (50 km) N of Colón. Ruta Nacional 14, Ubajay (03447) 493-053. daily.

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

9.,5;050(5:(:;/,)09;/73(*, 6-9,=,9,+5+,7,5+,5*, Road Map C2. 167 miles (270 km) /,96,5,9(36:G+,"(5 SE of Corrientes. 35,000. (9;H5

;;/, Acceso Oeste, (03773) 402-575. ,(:;,95,+.,6-;/,4(05 Fiesta del Chamamé (Nov). 3(A("(5(9;H50:Templete Sanmartiano>/0*/79,:,9=,: ;/,9<05:6-;/,:4(334030;(9@ %0,>,+(:(.(;,>(@;6;/, -69;>/,9,;/,30),9(;69:7,5; :;<5505. :;,96:+,3),9E /0:*/03+/66+#6;/,:6<;/6-

,9*,+,:0:( ;/,73(A(0:Museo de Cultura :3,,7@;6>5>0;/36=,3@ ;/ *,5;<9@:;9,,;:(5++0:;05* Jesuítica Guillermo Furlong >/0*/:0;:(;67;/,,:<0; ;0=,(+6),)<03+05.: #/, ;6>5::05.3,4<:,<40: 40::065:9,+:(5+ /6<:,+>0;/05;/,Casa :;65,-6<5+(;065:; Municipal de Cultura /6<:,:,:<0;(9;0 ?/0)0;:/,9,05*3<+, -(*;:(5+>66+,5 )(@65,;,+90-3,: 7(5,3:+,;(0305.;/, /0:;69@6-;/,9,.065 9,*6=,9,+-964 ;/ *,5;<9@*0=03>(9)(;;3, ;;/,:6<;/,95,5+ .96<5+:,9*,+,: 6-;6>50:Museo Sanmartiano Wooden horse display, /(::,=,9(3:/67: Museo Jesuítica +0:73(@05. :<*/(:Manos Corrientes;/(;:,33 >,(7659@;/(; ,?8<0:0;,.(<*/6>(9, ),365.,+;6;/,"(5(9;H5: 403,24+90=,>,:;6-

Museo de Cultura Jesuítica ;6>50:;/,96(+:0+,:/905,;6 Guillermo Furlong 36*(3767<3(9/63@-0.<9, Sargento Cabrán. Tel (03772) (<*/0;6 03 493-320. 8am–noon & 4–7pm Tue–Sun.

Museo Sanmartiano Ave Libertador s/n. Tel (03772) 493-011. 7am–11pm daily.

Casa Municipal de Cultura Parque Mitre. Dec–Mar: 4pm– 8pm daily; Apr–Nov: 8am–12pm, 2pm–6pm daily.

THE LEGEND OF GAUCHITO GIL 67<3(9:(05;(<*/0;6 03>(:(+,:,9;,9-964( ;/ *,5;<9@796=05*0(3>(95,:*(705.;6;/,46<5;(05: /,),*(4,(!6)0566+;@7,-0.<9,>/6:;63,-96490*/ 3(5+6>5,9:;6.0=,;6;/,76690:3,.,5+>(::,(3,+ 65/0:*(7;<9,>/,9,(;/0:/(5.05./,0::(0+;6/(=, >/0:7,9,+;6/0:,?,*<;065,9B&/,5@6<.6/64,@6< >033-05+@6<9:65+@05. 9(@-694@05;,9*,::065-69;/, )366+6-(50556*,5;*(57,9-694409(*3,:D#/,/(5.4(5 9,;<95,+/64,;6-05+/0::6505(.65@-;,9;/,*/03+: 9,*6=,9@/,,9,*;,+(*96::/<5.>0;/(9,+90))6505 /65696-(<*/0;6 #6+(@;/0::0;,0:(90))65-,:;665,+ *(5+3,(+695,+:/905,*6=,9,+>0;/4,::(.,:),:,,*/05. ;/,05;,9*,::0656-(<*/0;6"<*/0:9.,5;05(:9,=,9,5*, -69;/0:767<3(9:(05;>/60:56;9,*6.50A,+)@;/, %(;0*(5;/(;,(*/(5<(9@65;/,(550=,9:(9@6-03: /(5.05.<7;6 703.904:=0:0;;/,:/905,

Road Map D2. 245 miles (395 km) SE of Corrientes. 3,000. Sargento Cabrán y Gregoria Matorra (03772) 493-198.

6<5+,+(:()(:,05 )@ ,:<0;::,,205.;6,=(5.,30A, ;/,05+0.,56<:<(9(5H '(7,@J0:),;;,9256>5;6

Gaucho Antonio Gil’s shrine where pilgrims tie red ribbons

,3"/&+$,3"/ 0.*&)"0 0.(* 1%"012++&+$"/84"1)+!0/"&,),$& ))5 !&3"/0"4&)!"/+"00,#41"/*/0%)+!+! &0)+!0%"/"0"/3"!"/&3"0&10+*"#/,* 1%"2/+9#,/60%&+&+$41"/07%&+1&+$1 1%" )"/41"/)$,,+01%1, 2-5

-"/ "+1,#&1002/# "/"1"/#/,*1%"0" )$,,+00""-0&+1,+"14,/(,#+//,4 A flowering %++")0" %#)+("!5*/0%)+!+! bromeliad #")%)#),1&+$&0)+!02&!"001""/ ,10),+$1%" %++")0)),4&+$3&0&1,/01,,0"/3" 021/,-& )4&)!)&#"1%1&+ )2!"0,3"/ &/!0-" &"0 +!+2*"/,20/"-1&)"0+!***)0

Visitors on a walkway accompanied by a guide

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Road Map D2. 75 miles (120 km) NW of Mercedes. chartered flights only. from Mercedes. boats arranged at Colonia Carlos Pellegrini. 7:30am–6pm daily. Note: the best time to visit is in winter (Jun–Jul).

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A couple of nesting jabiru storks

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Road Map C1. 168 miles (270 km) NW of Mercedes. 350,000.

9 de Julio & Ave Costenera (03783) 474-829. Sat & Sun. Carnaval (Jan). www.ciudad decorrientes.gov.ar

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%8-*B8;;2.7=.<98<<.<<.< *7.A=;*8;-27*;B@.*5=18/ ,85872*5*7- =1,.7=>;B *;,12=.,=>;.=<@.55,87<.;?.- 12<=8;2,*5,.7=.;52.<;8>015B [email protected]<=;..=<-.>528 >.78<2;.<.7-8C**7- ?.72-*8<=*7.;*8><.- 27*58?.5B,85872*5.;* +>25-270 Museo de Artesanía Tradicional Folklórica.A12+2=< 7*=2?.,;*/=<95.=18;*8/ =1,.7=>;B+>25-270< 27,5>-.;*5 <=B5.< %1;..+58,4<78;=1 ?.72-*8<=*7.;*2<*;2?.; <2-.9;86.7*-.@12,18//.;< 0;.*=?2.@<8/#28"*;*7E Museo de Artesanía

Tradicional Folklórica F.J. de la Quintana 905. Tel (03783) 475-945. varies (call in advance). Sat. Spanish only.

Shady promenade of Avenida Costanera in Corrientes

The green wetland at the Parque Nacional Chaco

Road Map C1. 12 miles (19 km) W of Corrientes. 350,000. Julio Roca 20, Plaza 25 de Mayo, (03722) 458-289. Fri & Sun. Bienal Internacional de Escultura (Jul). www.resistencia.gov.ar

Road Map C1. 69 miles (112 km) E of Resistencia. Captán Solari, (03727) 499-161. daily.

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-.*B827=8 ->;*+5.1*;-@88- *789.7*2;*;= 1*--.,527.-->.=8 <=>-28*7-@8;4 /*;6270*7-/8;.<=;B <1896870 %1.9*;4*5<8 Wooden wheel at El Fogón de los Arrieros 9;8=.,=<<@*69 #.<2<=.7,2*<6*27 *==;*,=287<*;.2=< 9*56<*?*77**7- 6><.>6< Museo del Hombre 0*55.;B/8;.<=%1.<.-2?.;<. Chaqueño Ertivio Acosta 1*+2=*=<9;8?2-.;./>0./8;*7 18><.<*;=2/*,=<+.5870270=8 .A=;*8;-27*;B*;;*B8/@25-52/. =1.7*=2?.(2,1F%8+**7- =1*=27,5>-.<*7.<=26*=.- 8,8?2,866>72=2.< El +2;-<9.,2.<%1.68<=.*<25B Fogón de los Arrieros2<* <98==.-*;.@*-270+2;-<<>,1 6><.>6*7-*;=0*55.;B2=< *<3*,*7*<1.;87<*7-3*+2;> <=8;4<*66*5<*;.68;. .,5.,=2,-2<95*B<27,5>-.* 9*27=270+B@.55478@7*;=2<= -2//2,>5==88+<.;?.#*>,8>< #*H5$85-2*7-+8A270058?.< 18@5.;6874.B<@12,1*;. =1*=+.5870.-=8/8;6.;@8;5- 1.*;-;*=1.;=1*7<..7 ,1*69287*;58<87CG7 271*+2==1./8;.<=,*789B @125.8=1.;5*;0.;.,5><2?. Museo del Hombre <9.,2.<27,5>-.=1.02*7= Chaqueño Ertivio Acosta *7=.*=.;6*7.-@85/*7- J.B. Justo 274. Tel (03722) 453-005. 9>6*8558@270;*27/*55=1. varies (call in advance). 9*@6*;4<8/+209;.-*=8;< Spanish only. ,*7+.<98==.-87=;*25< El Fogón de los Arrieros #.9=25.<27,5>-.=1.,86 Brown 350. Tel (03722) 426-418. 6875B<201=.-+;8*-78<. 8am–noon, 9pm–11pm Mon–Fri, ,*26*7 2;-@*=,1270*7- 8am–12pm Sat. 124270*;.=1.6*27*,=2?2=2.<

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p279 and p297

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Elusive maned wolf found in the Parque Nacional Río Pilcomayo

Road Map C1. 224 miles (360 km) N of Resistencia. Resistencia to Laguna Blanca via Formosa. Ave. Pueyrredón & RN86, Laguna Blanca; (03718) 470-045. daily.

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52,.7<.-6272,*+<;>7;.0 >5*;5B/;868;68<*=8=1. 9*;4.7=;*7,.%1.=8@7<8/ 8>7-.-=82=<78;=1 *0>7* *2,4 .,4 *7-*0>7* +B #F8"25,86*B8 ;0.7=27*<;2?.;+8;-.; 5*7,*<2=7.*; 2=<<8>=1.;75262= @2=1"*;*0>*B=12< %1.5*==.;2<5274.-=8 <:625. <:469*;4 8;68<*+B+><*7-1*< <1*;.<6>,18/=1./58;* +.==.;=8>;2<=/*,252=2.<%1. *7-/*>7*/8>7-27"*;:>. <6*55=8@72<*5<8=1. *,287*51*,88@.?.; 2=,87=*27<68;.*7- 58,*=287/8;=1.9*;4< 5*;0.;+8-2.<8/ *-6272<=;*=2?. Ringed kingfisher at Laguna Blanca 1.*-:>*;=.;< @*=.;%1.9*;4< 6*2712015201=<*;. =1.+.*>=2/>5Laguna Blanca *7-=1.Esteros Poi+8=18/ @12,1*;.;.*,1*+5.+B/88= Road Map D1. 230 miles (370 km) *7-?.12,5.=;*25< E of Corrientes. 6,200. from %1.9*;4<+200.<=5*4. Corrientes. Avenida Sarmiento, *0>7* 5*7,*2<.-0.-+B /8;.<=<*52?.@2=1782,*7<*7- 9;.==B;270.-4270/2<1.;<%1. 9*;41*<*6B;2*-8/8=1.; & $!(8;5-.;2=*0. *726*5<27,5>-270.5><2?. $2=.=1..<>2=;>27<*=$*7 Centro de Interpretación 6*66*5<<>,1*<=1.6*7.- 07*,2827F*;.=1.68<= Alberdi s/n. Tel (03752) 470-186. @85/@12,12<*5<8=1.9*;4< <=>77270*7-.A=.7<2?.8/=1. 7am–7pm daily. <2A;>27<=1*=;.6*27/;86=1. 5 8,.58= %1.5*4.2<*989>5*; +*=1270<98=-.<92=.=1. 9;.<.7,.*=2=<<18;.527.8/ +;8*-78<.-,*26*7*7- ,*9B+*;*7.2=1.;8/@12,1 +2=. =2<*-?2<*+5.18@.?.; =8<@26@2=1<18.<87 '2<2=8;<*;.*5<8*-?2<.-78= =8/..-=1./2<1 8,*=.-=8=1.@.<=8/ =1.5*4.=1.<=.;8<"82 6*;<15*7-2<271*+2=.-+B .*<25B<201=.-@*-270+2;-< <>,1*<1.;87<3*+2;><=8;4< *7-3*,*7*< 9*;=/;86#.<2<=.7,2*=1. 7.*;.<=6*38;=8@7=8"*;:>. *,287*5 #F8"25,86*B82< 8;68<* 625.< 46 The Jesuit ruins of San Ignacio Miní, founded in the 17th century

A panoramic view of the magnificent horseshoe-shaped Iguazú Falls

+.(!".&0$"&0"0%" /10.+,& (.&*#+."/0+#.-1" &+*( $16:,.+2&!"/0%"/"00&*$#+.+*"+#0%" 3+.(!/$."0*01.(3+*!"./0%")&$%05 $16:((/$16:!".&2"/&0/*)"#.+) 0%"1.*93+.!#+.7&$30".8 Colorful butterfly #&00&*$!"/ .&,0&+*#+./".&"/+# 0. 0/ found at the park 0%0/0."0 %"/ )&("/ ')*! +) ,.&/"/+2". &*!&2&!1(30".#((/* "/+1. "+# ("$"*!#+.0%"1.*9,"+,("0%"#((/."0&**3" &*/,&.&*$,.&)+.!&("105#+.2&/&0+./+/0..&2"+* !50.&,/#.+)*".51".0+$16:"4,(+.&*$0%",.' 2&*"03+.'+# 03('/*!0.&(/

Visitors taking a walk along the Circuito Inferior

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p279 and p297

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

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Road Map D1. 12 miles (17 km) NE of Puerto Iguazú.

from Puerto Iguazú. Area de Recepción, (03757) 491-469. Oct–Mar: 8am–7pm; Apr– Sep: 8am–6pm. under 6 free. except for Circuito Inferior and Sendero Macuco. Note: the best time to visit the falls is the rainy season (Apr– Jul). www.iguazuargentina. com

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Circuito Superior

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Circuito Inferior

STAR SIGHTS

Garganta del Diablo Sendero Macuco

Salto San Martín Wildlife

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Key to Symbols see back flap

Area de Recepción 165 ft (50 m) from park entrance. Tel (03757) 491-444. 8am–7pm daily.

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from Estación Cataratas. arranged at park entrance. Circuito Superior only.

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Wildlife displays within the Centro de Interpretación

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p279 and p297

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Garganta del Diablo arranged at park entrance.

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arranged at park entrance.

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Brazilian Side Dec–Mar: 9am–6pm daily; Apr– Nov: 9am–5pm daily.

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THE WILDLIFE OF PARQUE NACIONAL IGUAZÚ .'<+4,58953+ (/8*'4*5<+83'33'296+)/+9 '87;+')/54'2 -;'@D(5'9:9+>:8'58*/4'8?(/5 */<+89/:? #.5;-.3;).5,/:9,';4'/4)2;*/4-:.+-/'4: '4:+':+8:.+6/-2/1+:'6/8'4*:.+65=+8,;20'-;'8/9 8+)2;9/<+'*/<+89+8'4-+5,=/2*2/,+)'4(+965::+* '254-:.+:8'/2959:5:/)'22?62;3'-+* :5;)'49(+9:5(9+8<+*+'82?/4:.+3584/4-6'885:9 :85-549)')/7;+9'4*5:.+8:856/)'2(/8*9%'*/4-(/8*9 ,/9./49:8+'39'4*'::.+:565,:.+,'229

Capuchin monkey, usually found in the canopy of the park’s forests

Coatimundi, one of the most commonly spotted mammals in the park

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Finca La Rosa, converted from a bodega into a wine-themed hotel and spa, Cafayate

Spectacular view of a towering rock face in Parque Nacional Talampaya, La Rioja

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Museo Histórico Provincial

Marqués de Sobremonte Rosario de Santa Fe 218. Tel (0351) 433-1664. 10am–3pm Tue–Fri, 9am–2pm Sat.

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Road Map C2. 435 miles (700 km) NW of Buenos Aires. 1,300,000. Recova del Cabildo. www.cordoba.gov.ar

-@<-:17:):-;1584-)457;< :=;<1+16<0-1:4)+37.),7:6 5-6<?014-<0-6)>-0); 8)6-4;,-81+<16/<0-<:1)4;7. <0--;=1<;$0-57;<;<:1316/ -4-5-6<;7.<0-+0=:+0):- <0-=;+7)4<):81-+-)6,<0- The stylish exterior of Museo -4)*7:)<-8=481<,77:?)A Municipal de Bellas Artes 5):3-,!=-:<),-41-47 )<-?)A<7-)>-68:7 >1,-;)++-;;<7<0-)8144) 16<0-:-6+0;-/-<)*4-81/5-6<; <176-:?);-6):7!I:-B #7=<07.<0-+0=:+01;<0- D )6A7.<0- Rectorado de la Universidad ?7:3;):-16.4=-6+-,*A <0-:-6+058:-;;1761;<; Nacional de Córdoba (UNC) ?1<0).7+=;76<0-4)6, )<16/.:75 <01;1; ;+)8-;7.<0-;1-::); :/-6<16);74,-;<=61>-:;1144-) 8741<1+1)6;)6, )6,?-44;<7+3-,41*:):1-; 5)3-<01;)84-);)6<84)+-7. ):1;<7+:)<; $0-:-1; )4;7)+744-+<1767. ;<=,A $0- Colegio Nacional ):1<1)<-16<0- ;)6, ;0-441;-5*-441;0-,?1<0 8am–1pm & 5–8pm Tue–Sun. ;=6<14<0-#7+1--;+):>-, -;=1< 47+3:750-:-<0- 16<7<0-:7+3):-=;-,<7 #7+1--:;)?<0-1: 07=;-+=4<=:)4-@01*1<176; 51;;176<7->)6/-41B-<0- )6,+76.-:-6+-;77, 6)<1>-;)+:7;;+-6<:)4)6, )+7=;<1+;)4;7-6)*4-<0-)<:1 67:<0?-;<-:6:/-6<16)); +)48-:.7:5)6+-;0-:- ?-44);<0-),5161;<:)<1767. Museo Municipal de <0-1:.):516/)6,)/:1+=4<=:)4 Bellas Artes Dr. Genaro Pérez 16<-:-;<;$01;+7584-@)476/ ?1<0.1>--;=1<-;<)6+1); Avenida General Paz 33. Tel (0351) 47+)<-,16<0-8:7>16+-?); 434-1646. 10am−8pm Tue−Sun. www.agora.com.ar/museogp :-+7/61B-,*A%# );) '7:4,-:1<)/-#1<-16 -,1+)<-,<7:/-6<161)6 Iglesia de la Compañía ?7:3;7.<0- <0)6, <0 ?);*=14<16 )6,1;<0- +-6<=:1-;<01;5=61+18)4):< The grand Cusco altarpiece at +7=6<:A;74,-;<;=:>1>16/ /)44-:A1;47+)<-,16)47>-4A -;=1<<-584-$0-16<-:17:)6, Iglesia de la Compañía <0+-6<=:A5)6;176*=14<

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The altar and pews of Iglesia Parroquial Nuestra Señora de la Merced

Road Map B2. 25 miles (40 km) SW of Córdoba. 43,000. (0810) 555-2582. www.alta gracia.gov.ar

Iglesia Parroquial Nuestra Señora de la Merced Plaza Manuel Solares. Tel (03547) 421-203. 9am–1pm & 3:30–6pm daily. Jan–Feb: 8pm Mon−Sat, 10am Sun; Mar–Dec: 6pm Mon−Sat, 10am & 6pm Sun.

-97:9=/<=63@/.38<1/8>38+ ?8>3623=./+>238 <97 98A+<.=2/63@/.386>+ <+-3+38+=7+6629?=/A23-2 2+=,//8-98@/<>/.38>9>23= /B-/66/8>7?=/?7 &2/?=/9+8?/6./+66+ /=>2/-97:9=/<=630/ =29A-+=38123=7?=3-+8.@+<3 9?=7?=3-+63806?/8-/=A3>2 /B23,3>=>2+>38-6?./23=63, <+>/<=6>29?12+8?/6 ./+66+-29=/>963@/386>+ <+-3+,/-+?=/903>=+ >39809<0+38+3<98/ 90>2/.3=:6+C=3=>2/7+-238/ ?=/.>9<96623=-31+>/= "3+89+8.-2+7,/<7?=3-+6=+2/-98-/<>2+6638>2/1+<./8 Museo del Che Guevara Avellaneda 501. Tel (03547) 428579. Jan–Feb: 9am−8pm daily; Mar–Dec: 2–7pm Mon, 9am–7pm Tue–Sun. free on Wed. by prior arrangement. limited. www.altagracia.gov.ar/museos/che

8>2/:<9=:/<9?= /=318/.,C8.?<+6,/6>90 6+8;?3+6=92/< >2/+67?-23>+(+66/C /=?3>/--6/=3+=>3-+6 3=>2/=7+6623=>9<3- ,?36.381=>23=-2?<-2 89A8+=(366+/+><3D>23= >9A8906>+<+-3+ :>C79-5&?.9<29?=/ 3=98/90<1/8>38+= >A+=09?8./.,C A+=98/90=/@/<+6.A/66381= >2//=?3>=986+8. ,/=>/B>+8>/B+7:6/= 9--?:3/.,C>2/?/@+<+ 1<+8>/.>9>2/738 90>2/6+>/>+63+8 0+736C.?<381>2/ = >2/ >2-/8>?C6/>= -?<@/.9?>/A+=2/-96983+619@/<8 +7?=/?79<799 7/8> &2//=?3>= =2<38/./.3-+>/.>9>2/ ,?36>+6+<1/<+8-2 Religious painting, /. 398+90+8/>A9<5 Museo Liniers 38>/<39<38-6?./=+ 6>29?12>2/C.989> 90=3736+<=3>/= :<9@3./+838./:>2+8+6C=3= -+<@/.A99./8:?6:3>+8.+ ./@/69:/.>92/6:0?8.>2/ 9023=630/+8.3./+6=>2/ '83@/<=3.+. +-398+6./ -96?78/.+6>+< H<.9,+98/90+>38 .3=:6+C=0/+>?/381 7/<3-+=96./=>?83@/<=3>3/= Museo Manuel de Falla -966/->398900+736C:29>9= Pellegrini 1011. Tel (03547) 429&2/6>+<+-3+/=>+8-3+ ?,+8,+8589>/==-2996 A23-20/6638>9.3=?=/+0>/< 292. Jan–Feb: 9am–8pm daily; -+<.=6/>>/<=0<97 >2//=?3>=/B:?6=39838 Mar–Dec: 2–7pm Mon, 9am–7pm 2/>923=0+@9<3>/+?8> A+=8+7/.+' %!)9<6. Tue–Sun. free on Wed. by +8./.3>398=90,995=,C prior arrangement. /<3>+1/%3>/38 >3= +?>29<=0+@92/ 89A>2/Museo Históríco 6//381>2/<+8-9 ?/@+<+38-6?.381 Casa del Virrey Liniers +8?/6./+66+98/ + <+-3+-+7/38>9 90%:+38=1/=>79./<8 /2/ =+8. =A2/83>+>><+->/.A/+6>2C <1/8>383+8=38=/+<-29000+79?=90>2/=/A/2/0+7363/=90<8/=>92/ ?/@+<++8.%:+83=2 -97:9=/<+8?/6./+66+ &9>2/89<>290>2/-3>C 3=>2/&+4+7+<+8+<>303-3+6 6+5/,?36>,C>2//=?3>=38 +8.:<9,+,6C>2/03<=> 903>=538.38>2/7/<3-+= 9-+>/.2/2/>9A8= -69-5>9A/<,?36>38 >9 -977/79<+>/6>+<+-3+= >2+883@/<=+
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Road Map B2. 55 miles (89km) SW of Córdoba. 5,000. Oktoberfest Beer Festival (Oct). www.elsitiodelavilla.com

9?8./.38>2/ =(366+ /8/<+6 /61<+893=98/90 <1/8>38+=>9:2963.+C ==318303-+8>:/<-/8 >+1/90>2/:9:?6+>3983= ./=-/8./.0<97>2/=?<@3@381 A pleasant mid-summer view of the meandering Río Cosquín -2/ -3<-63817+4/=>3-+66C9@/<2/+. >2/,+85=90>2/<3@/<90>2/ >2//<7+8:9-5/> ?7/<9?=><+36==97/+<.? ,+>>6/=23:=-?>>6/.900>2/ =+7/8+7/+8.38>2/=2+.9A 9?=+8.=63::/2/ 0> 76 '38 >2/=>//:-+8C98+8. 798?7/8>>9>2/-+8.= "+8./DI-+<&2/=?773>90 +6981=3./>2/<3@/<+> 38"6+D96/>+<+0%:// >23==?1+<69+079?8>+38 >2/,9>>97&2/@3/A=90>2/ &2/>9A8=7+38 >29<9?120+C90069<+ =3/<<+= >-+8,/
-2+3<630>0<97>2/ +8.0+?8+>2+>-+8,/ A3>2,//<-/66+<=+8. A/66=318:9=>/.69A/<=>+>398 09?8.+6981>2/A+C =9?@/83<=29:=>2/ 69-+>/.+>>2/099>90>2/2366 38-6?.38113+8>0/<8=+8. 09<7/<:?<@/C381 9=;?G8=0+7/=98 <+/1/8>3+8=A36. 3>=?89003-3+6=>+>?=+= /B-/66/8>+8. -+>=09B/=38.31/89?= +?>2/8>3- /<7+8 <9./8>=+8.=/@/<+6>C:/= <1/8>38+=096569+6 099.+8..<385>2/ &2//=>3@+6 +-398+6./ 90=8+5/898/90 The majestic 96569>/<+8+==9<>7/8>90 A23-2+9?<3=>7/<-2+8.3=/ 9638+.<+A=7+8C0965+8. )3>23>=-29-96+>/=29:= -6+==3-+67?=3-3+8=+8..+8-/ ?>2/<+8-2+:/6=+8.=><+38= ><9?:/=+8.0+8=0<97+<9?8. 90997:+27?=3-(366+ Road Map B2. 40 miles (63 km) <1/8>38++8.,/C98. /61<+89=>366:9A8=,/=>C/+<<9?8. @3,<+8> /<7+83-+>79=:2//B:69./= @3=3>9<+>><+->3983=?=/9 644. Festival Nacional de Folklore 38>9630/38!->9,/2>2/ +7G89=;?G898>2/$ (Jan). www.cosquinturismo.com.ar 38-3@+6 6913-+6+8.:+6/98>96913-+6 +>381,+-5>9-96983+6>37/= 038.=38-6?.38109==36==/73 9=;?G83=98/90>2/96./=> :98/=4/A/6>6/7/8>=38>2//.,C>2/+6381>9A83=,?36>98 :+8>=

Road Map B2. 53 miles (85 km) SW of Córdoba. Fundación Cóndor, (03541) 433-371. 9am− 6pm daily. by prior arrangement. by prior arrangement. www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar

9@/<381+8+93=98/90>2/0/A :6+-/=38>2/A9<6.A2/2/3< 8+>?<+62+,3>+>&2/:+<5 =?<<9?8.=+.//:73=>C19<1/ >2+>-?>=>2<9?12>2/2366=90 >2/"+7:+./-2+6+&2/ <+@38/=09<7+83./+6,,3<.=A3>2A381=:+8=90 9@/< 0>7-+8,/=//8

THE BOYHOOD OF ERNESTO GUEVARA >A+=,/-+?=/09?<C/+<96.<8/=>9 ?/@+<+=?00/27+>2+>23= 0+736C6/0>,/238.>2/7?11C-637+>/ 90 $9=+<3909<>2/.<3/<+3<906>+ <+-3+38 6>29?122/8/@/< =2995900>2/+=>27+23=-236.299. A+=,9>22+::C+8.+->3@/+8.2/ /B-/66/.+>=:9<>=&2/C9?81 The revolutionary Che <8/=>9=738.A+=896/==+136// -97:/>/.3869-+6-2/==>9?<8+7/8>= as a young man 0<97+C9?81+1/+8.:6?8./2/<=63,<+/<+9%317?8.2/+.?6>2/630/A9?6. 986C,/-97/<3-2/</6/0>H<.9,+>9=>?.C7/.3-38/+> >2/'83@/<=3>C90?/89=32/03<=>9023=A/66-2<983-6/.-<9==-9?8>/=0<972/2/6/==8/==+8. ><+@/62?81/<90+,9CA299?-2/.+=5CA+=+6

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The faded exterior of the onceexclusive Hotel Edén at La Falda

Road Map B2. 59 miles (95 km) N of Córdoba. 7,000. Ave Caraffa 300, (03548) 452-966. www.alacumbre.com

&2/8+7/+?7,A+=13@/8>9>23= >9A8,/-+?=/3>A+=>2/6+=> +8.2312/=>=>9:98>2/96. <3>3=2,?36><+36<9+.638/>2+> ,/1+80<97L<.9,+-3>C &2/><+38==>9::/.-2?00381 ?:>2/2366+6981>37/+19 ,?>+?7,37,/>+1/=69@/6C 7+83-?2/ 0+79?=1960-6?,=>366>/=>30C >9>2/6981=>+8.3818169 %+B98:9A8589A8 09<3>=><9?>03=2381=:9>=+8. 29<=/<3.38196C3> 2+=,/-97/=C898C79?=A3>2 +.@/8>?==?-2+=2+81 163.381+8.:+<+163.381 97:/>3>398=+2/,/=>@3/A=90>2/=?< <9?8.381"?8366+(+66/C-+8 ,/2+.0<97>2/-637,?:>9 >2/<3=>9$/./8>9<=>+>?/98 /<<9(3+<+:+

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Road Map C2. 32 miles (51 km) N of Córdoba. 21,000. Ave San Martín. Fiesta Nacional de Doma y Folklore (Jan).

See pp186–7.

9?8./.38>2/ >2-/8>?2/=6//:C7+<5/>>9A890 /=M=++8>638538>2/-2+3890 +1<3-?6>?<+6/=>+8-3+=,?36>,C >2//=?3>=>90//.+8.0?8. >2/'83@/<=3>C90L<.9,+ 9=>90>2/>9A8=23=>9<3-+6 ,?36.381=.+>/0<97>2/73. = 8 >2/96.-2?<-2 -98@/8> +8./.38>9 Museo Jesuítico Nacional de Jesús María &2/7?=/?7

-98>+38=+8/B-/66/8>-966/- >39890+<-2+/96913-+6038.= +8.=+-3=>=&2/ 0+79?=/=?3>A38//.>A+=2/2/ =>92+>>2/03<=>-969 83+6A38/=/<@/.>9>2/%:+83=2 <9C+60+736CA+=:<9.?-/. 8+8?+2/>9A8= :9:?6+>398>/7:9<+<36C=A/66= >99@/< A2/8/=M= +>998/90 <1/8>38+=79=>:9:?6+< 1+?-29+8.09650/=>3@+6=>2/ 3/=>+ +-398+6./97+C 96569381>/8.+C= >23=03/=>+-97,38/=/B>=9029<=/7+8=23: A3>237:<9@3=/.0965=381381 >2+>.9?,6/=+=+-977/8>+2/<9./9+->398

A gaucho textile display at Museo Folklórico in La Rioja

Road Map B2. 290 miles (467 km) NW of Córdoba. 150,000. Avenida Pelagio B Luna 345, (03822) 426-345. www.municipio larioja.gov.ar

9-+>/.+>>2/099>90>2/ 1<+83>/(/6+=-9%3/<<+=+ $394+3=>2/-+:3>+6-3>C90 >2/8+7/=+5/:<9@38-/ 9?8./.38 ,C?+8 $+7K2+= ,//8=>2;?+5/=9@/<>2/ 38>/<@/8381-/8>?<3/=>2/ 79=>./=>3@/90A23-2A+= 38 &2/-3>CA+=+8 Museo Jesuítico Nacional ?8?<+6 de Jesús María 9?>:9=>?8>36>2/ =A2/8 Pedro de Oñate s/n. Tel (03525) 38.?=><3+63D+>398=:+<5/.+ 420-126. varies (call in advance). :9:?6+>398=?<1/6>29?12+ www.coop5.com.ar/museo :6/+=+8>-3>C>9@3=3>79=>90 >2/C/+<3>3=?8-97 09<>+,6/.?<381>2/ =?77/<798>2=A2/8 >/7:/<+>?>37/>9@3=3> 3=38=:<381A2/8>2/ Environs -637+>/3=3@/6C ?=>736/= 57=9?>2 -996+8.>2/:+<-2/. 90+?7,9A8+8.+89>2/<199. >2/7?6>3>?./90 ,+=/09<9?>.99<:?<=?3>= ,69==97=90>2/ (3=3>9<=-+8>9?<>2/38>/<39<= 4+-+<+8.++8.9<+81/ 90>2/>9A8=98-//B-6?=3@/ >9>2/=/ 9>/6 .J8>2+>-69=/.38 ,6997=+$394+2+= >2/ =383>=2/C.+C3> 90>/8,//8C:= >9+=+?3.+../ +8.+09<7/<:+>/8>=-6/<5 69= +<+849= >2/ The Museo Jesuítico Nacional de Jesús María 8+7/. 6,/<> 38=>/38 3>C90!<+81/= For hotels and restaurants in this region see p280 and p298

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Stunning red cliffs at Parque Nacional Talampaya, weathered by centuries of wind and rain

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./+C9 >2/-3>C=7+38=;?+2/ 8/9-96983+619@/<87/8> ,?36.381+=+./9,3/<89 +8.>9>2/=9?>2Catedral San Nicolás de BariA23-2-98 >+38=+ >2-/8>?2/=+38>-+<@/.0<97A+68?> A99. Iglesia Santo Domingo 98/,69-5/+=>90>2/:6+D+ .+>/=0<97 +8.3==+3.>9 ,/>2/96./=>,?36.38138 <1/8>38+>=23126312>= 38-6?./>2/-+<9,A99. .99<=-+<@/.,C38.31/89?= +<>3=+8=38>2/ >2-/8>?/.A/=>90>2/:6+D+ Museo Folklórico3=+=?:/<,6C 9<1+83D/.39890+ (3->9<3+8$394+89.A/66381 :+-5/.A3>22+8.-+<@/. 0?<83=2381=+8.1+?-291/+< >+6=92+=+.3=:6+C9869-+6 7C>2=+8.6/1/8.=

Iglesia Santo Domingo B Luna and Lamadrid. 9am− 8pm daily. Museo Folklórico Pelagio B Luna 811. Tel (03822) 428-500. varies (call in advance).

An equestrian statue of San Martín at La Rioja’s Plaza 25 de Mayo

0/+>?98/-6300=>2+>=9+9 0> 70<97>2/ :6+38366398=90C/+<=90 Road Map B2. 135 miles (216 km) >9<3+6<+38+8..>C SW of La Rioja. Tel (03825) 470-356. A38.=2+@/=-?6:>/.>2/-6300= May−Sep: 8:30am−5:30pm 38>90+8>+=>3-=2+:/=>2/3< daily; Oct−Apr: 8am−6pm daily. +8>2<9:979<:23-;?+63>3/= www.talampaya.gov.ar /+<8381>2/737+138+>3@/ 83-58+7/==?-2+=&2/ 985+8.&2/ &2/.+8+>398+6:+<5 ,C"/8/738 :+<>0<97>2/<9-509<7+ >398=1?3./=-+8+6=9:938> "+<;?/ +-398+6 &+6+7:+C+ @3=3>9<=>9A+<.=:+1/%3>/>=8+7/-97/= 96?7,3+816C:2==-<+>-2/. 38>9>2/-63000+-/=+8. 0<97>2/38.31/89?=A9<.= :+>-2/=90<+
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Corridor characterized by plain brick walls and curved ceiling

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STAR FEATURES

Central Courtyard Altar Church Façade

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see p280 and p298

6

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

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Road Map C2. 13 miles (20 km) N of Jesús María. Tel (03525) 421-600.

Jan–Feb: 10am–1pm & 3– 5pm Tue–Sun; Mar–Dec: 10am– 1pm & 2–6pm Tue–Sun. Apr–Sep: 10am–1pm Tue– Sun; Oct–Mar: 10am–1pm & 3– 7pm Tue–Sun.

The cemetery %.

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Catedral de Nuestra

Señora del Valle Plaza 25 de Mayo. 7am–noon, 5–8pm daily.

Statue of Virgen del Valle, Catedral de Nuestra Señora del Valle

Road Map B2. 96 miles (154 km) NE of La Rioja. 141,000. República 446, (03833) 437-229. National Poncho Festival (Jul). www.turismocatamarca.gov.ar

8>7-.-27 $*7 .;7*7-8-.5'*55.-. *=*6*;,*><>*55B,*55.- 3><=*=*6*;,*+B=1. ;0.7=272*7<2<=1.,*92=*58/ =1.$*7.;7*7-89;8?27,.= 2<*:>2.==8@7=1*=1*<* 7>6+.;8/<201=<@8;=1 <..270*5=18>012=2<*-?2< *+5.=84..9*@*B->;270=1. *;.*<18=<>66.;687=1< %1.,2=B<7>,5.><2<2=< 6*27<:>*;.!5*C*

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Road Map C1. 130 miles (210 km) NE of Catamarca. 245,000. Libertad, 417 (0385) 4213-253.

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The neoclassical exterior of the Catedral, Santiago del Estero

Road Map B1. 40 miles (65 km) NW of Santiago del Estero. 27,000. Caseros 132, (03858) 421-721. www.lastermasderiohondo.gov.ar

8,*=.-87=1.+*74<8/ #L8>5,.$@..=#2?.; %.;6*<-.#L887-82< $8>=16.;2,*<+200.<=<9* =8@79*,4.-27=1.1201 <.*<87@2=1?2<2=8;;.%1.<9;270@*=.;< *;.;2,127627.;*5<*7- 478@7/8;=1.2;1.*5270 9;89.;=2.<%1.B0><18>=8/ .?.;B18=.5=*9*7-/255<.?.;*5 9>+52,+*=1<*,;8<<=8@7%1. @*=.;<*;.<*2-=8+.9*;=2, >5*;5B.//.,=2?.*0*27<=;1.> 6*=2<6*7-1B9.;=.7<287

A pool filled with spring water in a spa hotel, Termas de Río Hondo

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p280 and p298

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Road Map B1. 98 miles (158 km) NW of Santiago del Estero. 530,000. Ave de Setiembre 484, (0381) 430-3644.

Casa Histórica de la Independencia

Road Map B1. 110 miles (177 km) NW of Tucumán. 8:30am– dusk daily. limited.

7.8/=1.68<=2698;=*7= *7-+.<=9;.<.;?.-*;,1*.8 5802,*5<2=.<27;0.7=27*=1. ">256.<;>27<*;.=1.5*<= %1.+200.<=*7-.,87862,*55B ?.<=20.<8/*,2=B/8>7-.- 68<=2698;=*7==8@72778;=1 +B=1.9;.7,*7=;2+.8/ @.<=;0.7=27*$*720>.5-. =1.<*6.7*6.27=1.=1 %>,>6I72<58,*=.-27=1.#2M ,.7=>;B=@*<8;2027*55B 27=.7-.-=8+.*+>5@*;4 $*5L'*55.B=8=1..*<=8/=1. =8@.;270$2.;;*-.,87:>23* Road Map B1. 66 miles (107 km) *0*27<==1.*-?*7,2707,* W of Tucumán. 4,500. &<>*55B478@7<2695B*< 27,>;<287< %1.989>5*=287 Tafí del Valle, (03867) 421-009. 9.*4.-1.;.27=1. =1 %>,>6I7=1.=8@72<* www.tafidelvalle.com ,.7=>;B*=,58<.=8 1.,=2,;.5*=2?.5B=1;2?270 6.=;89852<@2=1 %1.<.==5.6.7=1*-+B=1.7 *B8>=1/>5989> 989>5*;@..4.7- 1.5-8>=/8;*;8>7- B.*;< 5*=287*7-?2+;*7= 0.=*@*B->;270=1. *0*27<=*==*,4<+B=1.+.==.; *;6.-$9*72<1,87:>.;8;< 7201=52/. %1.,2=B +52<=.;270<>66.; 1*<95*B.-*4.B;85.27 687=1< %*/L-.5'*55.2<* %1.;>27<1*?.+..7 .A9.;=5B.A,*?*=.-*7-9;. ;0.7=272*712<=8;BE2= <6*55=8@7=2<58,*=.- <.;?.-E<=87.@*55<=.;;*,.< @*<1.;.87>5B <2072/2,*7=5B1201.;=1*7 %>,>6I76*42702= *7-.?.7.7=2;.+>25-270<,*7 =1*=;0.7=27* Peruvian pelican, ,885.;@2=1*?.;*0. +.<..7*7-=1..//.,=8/ -.,5*;.-1.;27-. Casa Histórica de la <>66.;=.69.; @*54270=1;8>01=1.62< 9.7-.7,./;86=1. Independencia *=>;.<8/ G G 1*>7=270 %1..A,.55.7= $9*72<1,;8@7%1. ;88627@12,1=1./*=./>5 %1.;8*-=*4270=;*?.5.;< 87<2=.6><.>6-2<95*B<=885< -K6*;,1.@*<-.52?.;.- >9/;86=1.<=2,4B58@5*7-< *7-@.*987;B.A,*?*=.-27 ,*7+.?2<2=.-*==1.Casa @27-<=1;8>01/8;.<=<*7- =1.*;.*%1. 8=.5 #>27*< -.">256.<2<58,*=.-*==1. Histórica de la Independencia 5.6878;,1*;-<*7->927=8 %1.18><.@2=1*<.;2.<8/ =1.95.*<*7=12015*7-<$>77B /88=8/=1.;>27< ,;..9.;-;*9.-9*=28<*7- @12=.@*<1.-,85877*-.<@*< 8;2027*55B+>25=27=1.5*=. <+>=@*<;*C.-=8=1. 0;8>7-27=1.5*=. =1,.7 =>;B =@*<;.95*,.-+B* ;.952,*27=1. <<8>7- *7-5201=<18@27=1.0*;-.7 ;..7*,=<=1.<=8;B8/18@ 27-.9.7-.7,.@*<-.,5*;.- !5*C*7-.9.7-.7,2*2<=1. /8,*59827=8/$*720>.5-. %>,>6I7@2=17*=2?.=;..<* 5*;0.9885/8>7=*27<*7-* <=*=>.;.9;.<.7=2702+.;=B 8,*=.-7.*;+B2<270*@2-. Congreso 141. Tel (0381) 4310826. 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, 1pm–7pm Sat, Sun & public hols. www.casaindependencia.com.ar

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Road Map B1. 140 miles (225 km) NW of Tucumán. 12,000. Ave San Martín (03868) 422-442. Folk Festival (Mar).

76;1,-:-,76-7.<0- 8:-<<1-;<<7?6;16:/-6<16) ).)A)<-1;)6)<=:)4;<787>-: .7:)6A76-<7=:16/<0-%)44-; )4+0)9=G-;7:<:)>-416/ *--:;8);;16/ <0:7=/0!G70=;+0);)6, !G77:7=);1<7+:-)<- 16,1/-67=;.):516/:-;-:>-; ).)A)<-?);7..1+1)44A .7=6,-,16 )6,;776 ).<-:)6=5*-:7. ?-:--;<)*41;0-,76<0- ;478-;<0)<:1;-/:),=)44A ):7=6,<0--,/-;7.<7?6 &1<0<0-<:)69=14)5*1-6+- 7.)>144)/-).)A)<-<7,)A 0);:-;<)=:)6<;5=;-=5;)6, ).-?+74761)45)6;176; "7=<0?-;<7.<0-5)1684)B) 1; Museo de Arqueología Calchaquí?07;-+-:)51+)6, =:6,1;84)A;<-44<0-;<7:A7. <0-):-);6)<1>-160)*1<)6<; #0-6-):*AMuseo de la Vid y del Vino,1;84)A;)>):1-16-A):,;7.).)A)<- ):--@+-8<176)4<0-/:)6,-;< *-16/16+))!7;)7?<0- Patios de Cafayate Hotel and Spa)!7;)?);-;<)*41;0-,

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Fermentation tanks in one of Cafayate’s many bodegas

The huge monolith El Obelisco at Quebrada de Cafayate

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and Spa RN 40 & RN 68, Salta. Tel (03868) 421-747. www.starwoodhotels. com

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Road Map B1. 155 miles (250 km) N of Cafayate. 4,000. Virgin of the Candelaria (Feb).

7=6,-,16<0-51, <0 +-6<=:A74167;144;?); ).-=,)4-;<)<-8:7,=+16/ +7:6.47=:?0-)<.47=:)4.)4.) 8-88-:;)6,?16-=6<14 :/-6<161)66,-8-6,-6+16 7;<>1;1<7:;764A Road Map B1. 12 mile (20 km) 8);;<0:7=/0<01;:-57<- N of Cafayate. 0)54-<76),:1>-<0:7=/0<0- %)44-;)4+0)9=1F;7?->-: #0- =-*:),),-=5)0=)+) <0-<7?6;+74761)4 <0 ?-):;<0- +-6<=:A Iglesia San Pedro $"&7:4,-:1<)/-"1<- Nolasco de Molinos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panish-style parish church built <0:7=/0<01;67:<0;7=<0 in the 1600s, Molinos

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p280 and p298

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Road Map B1. 85 miles (136 km) N of Cafayate. 4,000. Ave Guemes & Benjamin Solillas, (0800) 444-0317. Fiesta de San José (Mar).

The 16-ft (5-m) tall cardones at the Parque Nacional Los Cardones

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STAR SIGHTS

Iglesia Catedral Iglesia San Francisco Plaza 9 de Julio

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Road Map B1. 995 miles (1600 km) NW of Buenos Aires. 464,000. Buenos Aires 93, (0387) 431-0950. Culture Festival (Apr). Casa de Gobierno Mitre 23, Plaza 9 de Julio; Tel (0387) 431-7327. Museo Casa Uriburu Caseros 417; Tel (0387) 421-5340. 9:30am–1:30pm, 3:30– 8:30pm Tue–Fri. El Solar del Convento Caseros 444; Tel (0387) 421-5124.

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de Alta Montaña de Salta Mitre 77. Tel (0387) 437-0499. 9am–1pm & 4–9pm Tue–Sun & public hols. free Wed. prior arrangement only. www.maam.org.ar

A cluster of sidewalk cafés lining the streets of Salta

Plaza 9 de Julio Bounded by Calles Caseros, Espana, Alberdi, & Zuviera.

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Cabildo de Salta Caseros 549. Tel (0387) 421-5340. varies (call in advance). Museo Histórico del Norte Tel same as the cabildo. Feb–Dec: 9:30am–1:30pm & 3:30–8:30pm Tue–Sat, 9:30am–1:30pm Sun; Jan: 9:30am–1:30pm Tue–Sun.

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The elegant arches and shaded courtyard of Cabildo de Salta

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San Bernardo Calle Caseros 73. Tel (0387) 431-0092. 9–11:30am & 4–6pm daily. 7:45am Mon–Sat, 8am & 10:30am Sun.

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Iglesia y Convento

San Francisco Calle Córdoba 15. Tel (0387) 4310830. 8am–noon & 5–9pm Mon– Sat. 9am & 8pm Mon–Sat, 9am, 11:30am, & 8pm Sun.

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Salta’s Tren de las Nubes passing over Polvorilla bridge

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STAR SIGHTS

Tilcara Purmamarca Humahuaca

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+74761)48)16<16/;)6,):<1 .)+<; <;+4)15<7.)5-07? ->-:1;1<;:-8=<)<176);) +:15-;+-6--6-:)4=)6 )>)44-?););;);;16)<-,0-:- ,=:16/:/-6<16);+1>14?):; 16<0- ;$0-074- <0:7=/0?01+0<0-4-<0)4 *=44-<8);;-,1;;<144>1;1*4- $0:--*47+3;?-;<7.<0- 5=;-=51;<0- <0+-6<=:A Capilla de Santa Bárbara ?1<0)67=<;<)6,16/+744-+<176 7.:-41/17=;8)16<16/; !=1-<.7:57;<7.<0-A-): =2=A7..-:;41<<4-)8):<.:75 4-1;=:-4A;<:744;<0:7=/01<; +7**4-;<76-,;<:--<;<1;)6 -@+-44-6<*);-.:75?01+0<7 -@847:-<0-8:7>16+-;:-57<- ):-);16+4=,16/<0-
Cerro de los Siete Colores under a blue sky in Purmamarca

San Salvador de Jujuy 75 miles (121 km) N of Salta. 240,000. Gorriti 295, (0388) 422-1326. www.turismo. jujuy.gov.ar Museo Histórico Provincial Juan Lavalle Lavalle 256. Tel (0388) 422-1355. 8am–8pm Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm & 4–8pm Sat & Sun. 10am, 11:30 am, 5pm, & 6:30pm.

$0-+)81<)47.=2=A8:7>16+- #)6#)4>),7:,-=2=A1;<0- 01/0-;<8:7>16+1)4+)81<)416 <0-+7=6<:A7+)<-, .< 5)*7>-;-)4->-4 )6,.4)63-,*A"I7; :)6,)6,'1*1'1*1<0-+1-:)4<15-;,=- <7?):;)6,-):<09=)3-; $0+116/;?01+0 ,-81+< 1*41+)4;=*2-+<;;=+0

);)+7*;4),,-:):-:1+04A ,-<)14-,)6,;07?*7<0<0- ;31447.<0-+:).<;5-6)6,<0- -6,=:16/-479=-6+-7.:-41 /17=;):< $?7*47+3;?-;<7.<0- 84)B)1;<0-6-7+74761)4 Iglesia San Francisco?01+0 ?);*=14<*-
)6, <1;*-;<367?6.7: 1<;#8)61;0*):79=-8=481< ?01+0?);+):>-,*A <0 +-6<=:A 741>1)6+:).<;5-6

Grand interior of the Iglesia San Francisco in San Salvador

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p280 and p298

$0-81+<=:-;9=->144)/-7. =:5)5):+)6-;<4-;)<<0- *7<<757.<0-/7:/-7.<0- ;)5-6)5-<7?-;1<;.)5- <7<0-0144<0)<7>-:4773;1< Cerro de los Siete Colores

1447.#->-6747:;$0+76<:);<16/;0),-;7.<0- :7+3;;<:)<):)6/-.:75/:15A 7:)6/-<78;A+0-,-41+8=:84- )6,):-)<<0-1:/41<<-:16/*-;< 2=;<).<-:;=6:1;-;1/6 87;<-,:7=<-<)3-;>1;1<7:;<7 )>1-?16/8716<2=;<7=<;1,- <0->144)/- Posta de Hornillos 45 miles (73 km) NW of Jujuy. 9am–6pm daily.

=14<16 <01;?76,-:.=44A ->7+)<1>-),7*-?)44-, *=14,16/?);76+-);<787.. 8716<76<0-:7=<-<0)<+76 6-+<-,<0-+74761)4>1+- :7A)4<1-;7.%88-: -:=67? 741>1))6,"I7,-4) 4)<) 6 1-:<-,16<7 )5=;-=5)6,1<; :775; ,1;84)A74,.=:61<=:-?-)8 76;7.?):+7;<=5-;)6, 01;<7:1+)4,7+=5-6<;.:75<0- <0)6, <0+-6<=:1-;<; 7<0-:+4)15<7.)5-1;<0)< -6-:)4 -4/:)67:-;<-,0-:- ).<-:,-.-)<16/<0-#8)61;016 <0-*)<<4-;7.$=+=5G6)6, #)4<)16

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A view of tombs and crosses set against the breathtaking backdrop of the quebrada, Maimará

Maimará 47 miles (76 km) N of San Salvador de Jujuy. 2,000.

>-:4773-,*A<0-*-)=<1.=4 5=4<1+747:-,:7+3.7:5)<176; 7.<0- <0->144)/- 7.)15):G1;*-;<367?6.7: 1<;5)65),-;<76-?7:3; $0--@<:)7:,16):14A,1>-:;- :)6/-7.<75*;)6,+:7;;-; .7=6,161<;+-5-<-:A.7:5) +0)7<1+0144;1,-6-+:78741; $0-,1..-:-6<+747:-,<75*; ):-41<<-:-,?1<0*:1/0< *7=9=-<;7.8)8-:.47?-:; Tilcara 52 miles (84 km) NW of Jujyu. 5,640. Belgrano 590, (0388) 495-5720. Fiesta de la Pachamama (Aug). Museo Arqueológico Doctor Eduardo Casanova Belgrano 445, Plaza Alvarez Prado. Tel (0388) 495-5006. varies (call in advance). Museo Irureta de Bellas Artes Corner, Belgrano & Bolívar. Tel (0388) 495-5124. varies (call in advance).

7516)<-,*A<0-,:)5)<1+ 57=6<)16;<0)<;=::7=6,1< $14+):)1;)<16A>144)/-?1<0 )84-);)6<-);A/716/)1:< 1;9=1-<.7:57;<7.<0-A-): )4<07=/01<)<<:)+<;)4):/- 6=5*-:7.>1;1<7:;?0-6<0- )66=)4 )+0)5)5).-;<1>)41; +-4-*:)<-,7:+-6<=:1-;<0- <7?60);*--6)0=*7.+:).<; 5-6)6,):<1;<;)6,5)6A /)44-:1-;)6,?7:3;078; :-5)16<7,)A 7=;-,16)47>-4A+74761)4 *=14,16/ Museo Arqueológico Doctor Eduardo Casanova0); )+744-+<1767.8:-74=5*1)6

):<1.)+<;.:75)+:7;;)<16 16 =-67;1:-;*=<;8-6< 5-:1+)16+4=,16/+-:)51+; 57;<7.01;?7:316/41.-16 5-601:;)6,->-6)5=55A $14+):)-:-0-8:7,=+-, $0-:-):-7>-: 81-+-;16 7148)16<16/;,-81+<16/4)6, <0-8-:5)6-6<+744-+<176)6, ;+)8-;)6,47+)48-:;76)41<1-; $14+):);57;<878=4):)<<:)+ -6,)J7<0-:775;):- ,- $14+):) $01;0144<78 .7:<:-;;;1<=)<-,0)4.) ,-,1+)<-,<7<0-;+=48<7: 514- 35)?)A.:75 ?07+:-)<-,76=5-6<7 <7?68:-,)<-;<0- )4)6,-8-6,-6+1) ,-=5)0=)+) )::1>)47.<0-6+);*A $0-;5)44Museo Irureta =8<7.1>-+-6<=:1-;< de Bellas Artes,1;84)A; ?);.1:;<-@+)>)<-,16 7>-: -6/:)>16/; )6,0);*--6:-; <7:-,)6,8:-;-:>-, 8)16<16/;)6,;+=48<=:-; *A57,-:6:/-6<161)6 ;16+-<0- ;=6,-: ):<1;<; &7:3;7.=/7 <0-)=;81+-;7.<0- :=:-<)<0-;+=48<7: Sculpture at Museo %61>-:;1-.47:)57;<4A +47;-*A1;=;-77;H +)+<1)..7:,;?76,-:.=4>1-?; 6<7617 $-::A?07;- -@01*1<176;8)+-1;,-,1+)<-, 7.<0- <7<0-8)16<-:?07?);*7:6 Uquia 62 miles (100 km) N of San Salvador de Jujuy. 315. Iglesia de San Franscico de Paula 10am–noon & 2–4pm daily.

The whitewashed façade of Museo Ernesto Soto Avedaño, Tilcara

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Road Map B1. 30 miles (48km) NW of Iruya. Tel (03887) 91-048. Macedonia Gras 141, Abrapampa. daily. by prior arrangement.

A view of picturesque Humahuaca nestled in the Andean hills

Humahuaca

Iruya

78 miles (125 km) N of Jujuy. 12,000. Iglesia de la Candelaria y San Antonio Buenos Aires 383. 9:30am–noon & 4– 7pm Mon–Fri.

44 miles (70 km) N of Humahuaca. 1,200.

Iglesia de la Candelaria y San Antonio (3:6((;065(3

de Nuestra Señora del Rosario y San Roque,9,65;/,

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Road Map B1. 195 miles (314 km) N of Jujuy. 300.

View of Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Rosario y San Roque

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p280 and p298

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Sweeping view of towering peaks covered in verdant yunga forest, Parque Nacional Calilegua

Casa del Marqués Campero

:;033:;(5+:(5+0:56>(5 05;,9,:;05.4<:,<4,?/0)0;05. :64,6-;/,9<305.+@5(:;@: 4,469()030(#;(5+05.5,?; ;60;0:( ;/*,5;<9@*/<9*/ Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Rosario y San Francisco

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The 18th-century Casa del Marqués Campero, now a museum

Road Map B1. 75 miles (120 km) NE of Jujuy. Tel (03886) 422-046. 9am−6pm daily.

Road Map C1. 155 miles (250 km) SE of Jujuy. Tel (03487) 4312-683. 9am−dusk Mon–Sat.

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Rows of wooden wine barrels in the cellar of Zapata Agrelo winery, Luján de Cuyo

View of the magnificent El Hongo balancing rocks at Parque Provincial Ischigualasto, San Juan

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Plaza Independencia Espejo, Chile, Rivadavia & Patricias Mendocinas. Sat & Sun. Museo Municipal Arte Moderno Tel (0261) 425-7279. 9am–8pm Mon–Sat, 4–9pm Sun & pub hols.

Plaza España Ave España and Montevideo.

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+,58+)8599/4-:.+4*+9:5 ./2+ 4*+6+4*+4)+.+85 59A*+"'4'8:B496+4: +>:+4*+*6+8/5*9/4+4*5@' #./962'@'+'82/+8145=4'9 2'@'5(5)533+358':+9 :.':,'):=/:.'4+7;+9:8/'4 9:':;+'8+62/)'5,54+:.': 9:'4*9/4;+459 /8+994'3+ 9'1+62'@')8599:.+9:8++: :.+4+5)2'99/)'2Basílica de San Francisco)54:'/49:.+ /3'-+5,;+9:8'"+C58'*+2 '83+4*+;?5:.+6':854 9'/4:5,"'4'8:B4983?5, :.+ 4*+9 #.+8+/9'295' 3';952+;3=/:.:.+8+3'/49 5,./9,'3/2?+96/:+:.+ *+<'9:':/4-+'8:.7;'1+95, '4* :.+('9/2/)' 9:/229:'4*9/33');2':+

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Road Map B2. 1095 miles (1760 km) W of Buenos Aires. 110,000.

San Martín 1143, (0291) 420-2800. Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia (Mar). www.turismo.mendoza.gov.ar

The Museo del Área Fundacional in Parque Bernardo O’Higgins

:.+ +'8:.7;'1+:.': 96;88+*:.+)/:?98+25)':/54 :5:.+95;:.=+9: Parque San Martín Ave Emilio Civit and Avenida Boulogne Sur Mer.

:.+':+8=./)./9:.+3'/4 <+4;+,58:.+,'22=/4+,+9:/ <'2'4*:.+Estadio Islas Malvinas=./)..59:+*:.+ %582*;63':).+9 Chacras de Coria Ave Emilio Civit and Boulogne Sur Mer. Sat & Sun. Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes Emiliano Guiñazú San Martín 3651, Mayor Drummond, Luján de Cuyo. Tel (0261) 496-0224. varies (call in advance).

Ituzaingó and Buenos Aires. Museo del Área Fundacional Alberdi 571. Tel (0261) 425-6927. 8am–8pm Tue–Sat, 3–8pm Sun.

4:.+ :.)+4:;8?8+4). '8)./:+):.'82+9 #.'?92+,:'2+-')? 5,3'-4/,/)+4:2? 42? 3/4;:+9 2'4*9)'6+*6;(2/) '='?,853*5=4 6'819'4*68/<':+ :5=4+4*5@':.+ 6856+8:/+9:.85;-. 2+',?9;(;8(5, 5;::.+)5;4:8? .')8'9*+58/' 54+.5=+<+8 ='954)+:.+)'6/ 9;86'99+9 :'291/:).+4-'8*+4 +4*5@'9'87;+ '4*58).'8*'4? "'4'8:B4 5,/:9*/8:85'*99:/22 The ornate gates at 9;8
::.++'9:+84+*-+5, *5=4:5=4+4*5@''87;+ +84'8*5/--/49/9' -8++4(+2::.':9:8+:).+9458:. ,589+<+8'2(25)19:5:.+)/:?9 58/-/4'29/:+=.+8+Museo del Área Fundacional)5<+89:.+ +>)'<':+*,5;4*':/5495,:.+ )5254/'2 :5=4.'22 #.+3;9+;3/9'29545:'(2+ ,58/:9/4*/-+45;9;'86+'8:/ ,'):9'4/368+99/<+9+:5, ./9:58/)'2*/58'3'9'4*' )522+):/545,./9:58/)'26.5:5 -8'6.9 4'**/:/54:5:.+ 3;9+;3:.+6'81'295.'9'4 '7;'8/;3 +'8(?'8+:.+ )8;3(2/4-8;/495,:.+ :. )+4:;8? Templo de San Francisco4+'82?2+<+2+*/4

View from Cerro de la Gloria in Parque San Martín

Parque Bernardo

O’Higgins

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

Neatly arranged wooden casks at Bodega La Rural

THE GRAPE GROWING PROCESS *'120&5%4+0/0('/&0:#37+/'+3#+&'&$94*'#2'#3 #-4+45&'#/&%-+.#4'7*+%*+34'.1'2#4'#/&3'.+#2+&0(('2 +/)1-'/490(35/-+)*4#/&-+44-'2#+/(#--07'6'24*'*'+)*4 0(4*' /&'3%#/%#53'%-+.#4+%('#452'335%*#34*'7+4*'2 +/)"0/+/&40$'.02'&'3425%4+6'4*#/0/4*'1-#+/3 High altitudes 2'%'+6'+/%2'#3'&5-42#6+0-'4-+)*4+.1206+/))2#1'

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Irrigation 0'"/,( "0%.+1$%*"(+.0"/5/0")+# !)/*! *(/0%0."#"!50%"."$&+*/)*5.&2"./ &* (1!&*$7+"*!+6%"/".&2"./ ..50%")"(0&*$ /*+3/+#0%"*!"/)+1*0&*.*$"

GOOD PRODUCERS AND VINTAGES <5+)+03%#;1&$&+/ (" "/".21&$& +/ 5.%"/".2 < 0&')#'22#:#:&'-03

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THE MAKING OF MENDOZA WINE '/&0:#7+/'2+'3120&5%'%05/4-'336#2+'4#-3#/&$-'/&3 +/%-5&+/)+/4'2/#4+0/#-34#/&335%*#3#$'2/'4#56+)/0/ +/04 0+2#/&*#2&0//#9*'+23+)/#452'7+/'3#2'4*'&''1 2'&#-$'%#/&4*'&297*+4'0220/4=3 Torrontés,.+(5 .+//

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FIESTA NACIONAL DE LA VENDIMIA *+37+/'*#26'34('34+6#-+3'/&0:#33+/)-' $+))'34'6'/47+4*/'#2-94052+343 %207&+/)4*'%+4944#,'31-#%'0/4*'(+234 (5--7'','/&0(#2%**'('34+6#-$')+/3 7+4*4*'-'33+/)0(4*'25+43%'2'.0/9#/& '/&37+4*(+2'702,3#44*''#4202+')0

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Cavas Wine Lodge 9

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KEY

Tour route Major road

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Minor road 5616/("50 0 km 0 miles

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Chandon 7

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Catena Zapata 8

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Escorihuela 1

TIPS FOR VISITORS

&/%0;"4.045 $&/53"-8*/&3:

0%&("4 4$03*)6&-"*4 )0.&50$&-*5:$)&' 3"/$*4"--."/4 &9$&--&/53&45"63"/5

Starting point: Escorihuela, 3 miles (4 km) S of Mendoza. Length: 80 miles (130 km). The tour needs at least two days and it is best to hire a car and driver. Getting there: Ruta Nacional 40 from Mendoza to Escorihuela. Stopping-off points: Bodega Salentein (see p282) and Nieto Senetiner offer excellent accommodations. Cavas Wine Lodge (see p299) and Familia Zuccardi are good places to stop off for lunch. There is rafting on Río Mendoza in the region. www.wine-republic.com

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Familia Zuccardi 2

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junction of Ruta Nacional 7 and 8./=79?8>+38 Ruta Provincial 39, (02624) 420-410. <+81/+><+-5=3./+6 >>2/2/+.A+>/<=90$I9 09<,9>2:<90/= /8.9D+'=:+66+>+>2/ =398+6+8.+7+>/?< ,311/=>=/>>6/7/8>,/>A//8 =53/<=&2/>9A8 3=+6=9+,+=/09< <+8 /8.9D++8.>2/ ,9<./<9--?:3/=+=-/83- -98-+1?+,9?8. 235/<=+8.-637,/<= @+66/C >=9 9./<8=53630>= /8><+6 =3+823126+8.=3==9 =><35381>2+>>2/69-+>398A+= A//5/8.= -29=/809<>2/ 79@3/ .?<381=/6/->/. A Los Penitentes ski resort in summer =>+<<381 798>2=09<@3=3>9<= =:<381=90VillavicencioA23-2 >9/849C>2/0+,?69?=@+66/C +->9< <+.#3>> 2+@/,//8-69=/.09<7+8C )236/'=:+66+>+2+=986C+ +8.79?8>+38@3/A= 0/A=312>=>9/B:69381+8.5+C+5381-97 .3=:?>/ &23=<9?>/A+=>2/ :+83/=900/<><3:=98>2/=/.3 =+7/>+5/8,C8./:/8./8-/ 2/<99=H./%+8 +<>I8= 7/8>-6911/. $I9 /8.9D+ Road Map B2. Ruta Nacional 7, &29?123>6+-5= <7C90>2/8./=+8.+6=9 near Las Cuevas. 2+<6/=+<+:3.=3>1/>=,31 www.cristoredentorchiar. ./-+./=6+>/<&9>2/89<>2 A+@/=.?<381>2/=:<381 galeon.com 2/,/=>>37/ +6981 $?>+#<9@38-3+6 >9A+<.+6381+=>+>2/ 09<+199.5+C+5381+8. Comunidad Huarpe 0>/< <1/8>38++8. <+0>381/B:/<3/8-/ Guaytamari3=+8 236/:9=> >2/3<-9?8>6/==,9<./< &2/=?<<9?8.381-9?8>2+66+7+0+<7+8. .300/2/ +6981 $?>+#<9@38-3+6 +8. 2+8.3-<+0>=7+<5/> >A9-9?8><3/=?8./< 9>2/<8/+<,C<9+.=2+=+ >2/+?=:3-/=90<3>3=2 -6?=>/<9038>/38123=>9<3- 381 .A+<.(=318/. +:+->>9./>/<738/ =312>= ,9?> 736/= 57 A/=>90'=:+66+>+=>+8.>2/ >2/ 8./+8,9?8.+A//8>2/7=:+<> km) W of Uspallata. 90>2/:+->>2/C A23>/A+=2/..97/.5368= www.mendoza38=>+66/.+ 0>7 >2+>.+>/0<97>2/ >2-/8 ski.com =>+>?/902<3=> >?+66?<1C/@/838: 7 statue on the 96?7,3+8>37/==29<>.3= <97'=:+66+>+ +,9@/=/+6/@/6&2/ Chile border =>+>?/A+=7+./,C >+8-/>9>2/89<>2/+=>>2/9>2/ '9< +>/9 +30?6:13@/A+C>9=:/->+-?6+< 698=9?=3817/>+60<97 96?7,3+8:/><916C:2=+8.+ =-/8/2/A+C>99= -+8898=+8.9>2/9>2/ +:?-2/E=+38>F #/83>/8>/= > 0> &2/<9+.>9>2/=+..6/A2/2/=>+>?/=>+8.=3=+@/<>31 #/83>/8>/=3=>2/,/=>=53381 +>>2/6+@+9?>-<9:90Cerro Tunduqueral 89>2/<<9?>/>9 9:>39809< /8.9D+,+=/. 389?=D31D+1>2+>C3/6.==:/- /8.9D+-98>38?/=@3++ @3=3>9<= />>/<589A8+=(366+ >+-?6+<:+89<+7+=90>2/$I9 /8.9D+(+66/C 9=#/83>/8>/=>2/@366+1/3= D31D+1<9+.:+=>>2/29> 9<7+8CC/+<=>2/96. <9?>/>9<3=>9?=/.>9,/>2/ 7+3838>/<8+>398+62312A+C >2+==38-/,//8=?:/<=/./. ,C+>?88/6,?>>9?<,?=/= +8.:<3@+>/-+<==>366><+8=:9<> @3=3>9<=>9>2/=>+>?/ 9A/@/<>2/<9+.3=9:/8 986C,/>A//8+8?+2/90>2/C/+< 3>3=-69=/..?/>92/+@C =89A0+66)2/8>2/<9+.3= 9:/879=>>9?<=19?:>9>2/ 0> 72312Cerro Tolosa A2/<+38 Domed kilns used to smelt metal, Bóvedas Históricas Uspallata >9=-+6/-98-+1?+

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp281–2 and pp299–300

' * " ! & ) ! " ' ! & $ *

Spectacular backdrop of Laguna de Horcones, Parque Provincial Aconcagua

-637, &23=.9/=89>7/+8 >2+>3>3=/+=C:<9=:/->3@/ =?773>//<=7?=>,/38199. :2C=3-+6-98.3>398>9./+6 Road Map B2. 115 miles (185 km) A3>29BC1/8./03-3>=89>>9 W of Mendoza. Ranger 7/8>398/B>2/< station, Horcones; (0261) 156-210-98.3>398= "89>2/<79/-283-+6<9?>/=>2/3==?/3= 4252-090. 8am–6pm daily (for /@/879792+8 -637,/<=2+@/.3/. mendoza.gov.ar 98 -98-+1?++8.+:<90/= =398+61?3./3=37:/<+>3@/ "8/90>2/-9?8> 09<89879?8>+38//<= A/66589A8:+<5=#+<;?/ 9<>?8+>/6C -98-+1?+2+= #<9@38-3+6-98-+1?+-98>+38= 799900/<>2+84?=>3>= =?773><973>=@3=3>9<-/8>/< 98/90>2/A9<6.=2312/=> 986C 736/= 5789<>290 =?773>= >

0> 7 Cerro Aconcagua2+= >2/2312A+C.+C><3::/<=-+8 ,//8>2/19+6907+8C89@3-/ >+5/+=29<>235/>9Laguna de Horcones9<-98/=+5/ 79?8>+38//<=+=?8635/ 09<=:/->+-?6+<@3/A=89>2/< 9?8> @/+8.9>2/< 9:>3983=>919+2/+.>9 0+79?=:/+5=3>/849C=/+=C +--/==+8./-283 9806?/8-3++838>/<7/.3+>/ -+7:09<>9Plaza -+6-637,381=5366=C>2/ ><+.3>398+689<>2A/=><9?>/ Francia+8.>9Plaza de Mulas >2/E$99090>2/7/<3-+=F3= 8>23@/6C+69A.3003-?6>C -+82/

Natural rock formation at Puente del Inca

0> 7,+=/-+7: 09< #+=9?>20+-/8+A//5 >2/C-+8?<8 0<97#6+D+./ ?6+=A2/79?8>+38//<==>+<>>2/3< 038+6-637,>9>2/=?773> /3>39809<-+7: =3>/= >3=7+8.+>992+@/:/<73>=09< /@/92+@/+8+=-/8>:/<73> >9-98>38?/,/C98.#6+D+./ ?6+= &2/ Glaciar Polaco <9?>/+,9?>736/= 57 /+=>909=#/83>/8>/=3= 6981/<+8.=6312>6C6/== .3003-?6>>2+8>2/=9?>20+-/ '8635/7+8C8+>398+6:+<5= -98-+1?+2+=3@/6C63>>6/ >9900/<9>2/<>2+83>==:/- >+-?6+<=-/8/2/8./==79=>,+<9<=A3>263>>6/@/1/>+>398 +8.0/A7+77+6=%97/ @3=3>9<=7+C=:9>>2/8./+8 -98.9<A23-2-+7/-69=/>9 /B>38->398.?/>92?8>381 -3<-638198>2/>2/<7+6= ,9?> 736/=57A/=> 909=#/83>/8>/=3=Puente del IncaA23-2>+5/=3>=8+7/ 0<97+8+>?<+6,<3.1/9@/<$I9 /8.9D+ &2/=3>/29A/@/< 3=-?<6C-69=/.>9@3=3>9<= +=+03==? :9>/8>3+66C.+81/<9?=#?/8>/ ./6 8-+3=297/>9>2/ Cementerio de los Andinistas +8 -98-+1?+-637,/<=-/7/ >/=>+66= 0<97A2/9<=-+8:3-5 ?:=9?@/83<= Puente del Inca Ruta Nacional 7, Km 175.

Bodega Cheval des Andes against the snowy Andes mountains, Luján de Cuyo

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Road Map B2. 96 miles (155 km) N of San Juan. 10,901.

San Juan s/n; (02647) 420-003, ext. 311. Fiesta de la Tradición (Nov). www.jachal.gov.ar

/)=+07<7?6F+0)41; 367?6.7:0)6,?7>-6*4)6 3-<;)6,876+07;*=<1<1; 57:-.)57=;);)*);-.7: -@847:16/<0-;=::7=6,16/ >144)/-;<0-01/06,-;)6, ?01<-?)<-::).<16/16<0- The sunlit patio of Casa Natal de Sarmiento in San Juan <7?6;:1>-:$0-5)27:)<<:)+ 74,#)6=)61;)A7=6/)6, <1761;<0- <0+-6<=:AIglesia 57,-:6+1
Sarmiento 24 Sur, (0264) 4210+:=+1.1-,0:1;< 5)16<7=:1;<)<<:)+<176; 004. www.turismo.sanjuan.gov.ar -+4):-,)6)<176)4576= Environs 5-6<16 );))<)4,- $0-57,-:6+1)44-A7."H7 7.F+0)4=)+71;<0-;1<-7. 07=;-?1<0;8)+17=;;=641< #)6=)6$0-+1-6<=:)=6) 8)<17?1<084-6174-6< <0-+7;578741<)6)=<07: 4-),;7>-:<0-=-;<),-4 -):<09=)3-76)6=):A ,18475)<-,=+)<7:)6, &1-6<7<7<0-0)54-<7. 1<0);*--6:-;<7:-, .7:5-:8:-;1,-6<7516/7 ;->-:)4<15-; "7,-7<0-;<):<16/8716<.7: #):51-6<7<1;)4;7<0-84)+- :).<16/,7?6"H7F+0)4

Casa Natal de Sarmiento ?0-:-878=41;<=)67516/7 Iglesia San José Sarmiento 21 Sur. Tel (0264) -:I6-6<-:-,<0-8=*41+-A- San Juan. daily. 422-4603. 8:30am–1:30pm ,=:16/<0-:-41-.-..7:<;7. Mon–Sun, 5–9:30pm Tue–Fri :/-6<16);?7:;<->-:-):<0 & Sun. www.casanatal9=)3-16 '1<00):,4A) sarmiento.gov.ar *=14,16/57:-<0)6)+-6<=:A

THE DIFUNTA CORREA *7=<514-;35-);<7.#)6=)6;8:7>16+1)4 +)81<)41;<0-878=4):1.=6<)7::-);0:16-)<&)44-+1<7 >144)/- ++7:,16/<776-7.<0-4-/-6,;-7416,)7::-) )A7=6/?1,7?,1-,7.<01:;14?):;-:*)*A 07?->-:;=:>1>-,)<0-:*:-);<-;81<-,7=*<;<0)<;0- ->-:-@1;<-,<01;C51:)+4-E5),-0-:)878=4):C;)16<E $7,)A)<);<-:)6,7<0-:<15-;<0-;8:)?416/;0:16- )<<:)+<;<07=;)6,;7.814/:15;?074-)>-<73-6;7./:)<1 <=,-D:)6/16/.:7557,-4;7.57,-;<07=;-;<7)6<19=- )=<757*14-;16516<+76,1<176D.7:>):17=;.)>7:;/:)6<-,

A thermal bath under an open sky in Pismanta

Road Map B2. 116 miles (187 km) NW of San Juan, Ruta Nacional 150. from San Juan to Jáchal. www.hoteltermaspismanta.com.ar

Miniature roadside shrines to the Difunta Correa

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp281–2 and pp299–300

:75F+0)4"=<) )+176)4 4-),;;7=<0?-;<<7<0- 57,-;<07<;8:16/7);1;7. 1;5)6<)?0-:-<0-07<-40); )/77,:-;<)=:)6<)6,-67: 57=;07<*)<0;<0)<):-)4;7

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La Esfinge (The Sphinx) rock formation at Parque Provincial Ischigualasto

78-6<7676/=-;<;$001/0?)A+76<16=-;<7<0- .< 5Paso de Agua Negra<0-01/0-;<8);; *-
)+176)4,-#)6=)6;Museo de Historia Natural7=;-, 16)01/0+-1416/-,?):-07=;- ),)8<-,);)5=;-=51<; 41.-;1B-57,-4;7. )6,7<0-: ,167;)=:;<0)<:7)5-,<0- -):<0=8<7

5144176A-):; )/7):-<0-;<):<16/8716<.7: 16.7:5)<1>-*)+3+7=6<:A <7=:; %61>-:;1-01+4--@+=:;176;8);< NE of San Juan. from San Juan. =619=-4)6,.7:5;;=+0);

25 de Mayo y Las Heras, San ) ;.16/-$0-#8016@)6, Juan; (02646) 491-100. museum 476/7$0-=;0:775 & park: Apr–Sep: 9am–4pm; Oct– =-<7<0-<-::1*4-;=55-: Mar: 8am–5pm. inclusive of 0-)<57;<)615)4;):-67+<=: museum price. 6)4*=<>1;1<7:;5)A*-)*4- www.ischigualasto.org <7;87<<0- )<)/761)60):-; :0-);:-,.7@-;):5),1447; -;;+747:.=4<0)6<0-:-, 8=5);)6,<0-:):-4A;87<<-, ;)6,;<76-+)6A76;7.#1-::) +76,7:; $0-5)1684)6< ,-4);!=12),);

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

)+:7;; <0-8:7>16+1)4*7:,-:16) "172)<0-8):30);78-6-,) Dinosaur display at the museum in Parque Provincial Ischigualasto *:)6+07.<0-%61>-:;1,),

<0-:7),.7:<0- 514- 35+1:+=1<16)++-;;1*4-7;< 7.<0-;-<7=:;>1;1<<0-8):316 <0-57:616/)6,$)4)58)A) 16<0-).<-:6776*-.7:- :-<=:616/<7#)6/=;-01+4- <7=:>1;1<7:;+)6)4;7<)3-) 07=:013-<7<0- .< 5;=551<7.<0- *)::7?413-Cerro Morado .7:8)67:)51+>1-?;7. ;+01/=)4);<7)6,67:<0<7 $)4)58)A) -;<,76-16<0- 57:616/<0-013-6-+-;;1<)<-; 01:16/)/=1,-)<<0-8):3 :)6/-:;<)<176)<<0--6<:)6+-

Pre-Columbian petroglyphs at Piedra Pintada

Road Map B2. 250 km (400 miles) NE from San Juan. 3,889.

General Acha s/n, (02646) 420104. Founding of San Agustín (Apr).

%6413-<0-*4)B16/,-;-:<;<7 1<;67:<0)6,;7=<0<0-+7BA 7);1;7.#)6/=;-:,)6- /:7>-;58:7>-,01/0?)A; )6,>1;1<7:;-:>1+-;0)>- 5),-1<<0-*-;<84)+-.7: <:)>-4-:;<7)::)6/-<7=:;<7 ;+01/=)4);<716#)6=)6)6, $)4)58)A))+:7;;<0-8:7 >16+1)4*7:,-:16)"172) #)6 /=;

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.99&0*843&+.*7> 47&3,*(4147:.)*) )*8(*398.3949-*(&3 >4389&0*&'4:947 -4:78471*88&2'. Road Map B2. 104 miles (167 km) 9.4:8-.0*789-*7*.8& SE of San Juan. from San Juan 7*1&9.;*1>*&8>3&9:7* and San Luis. San Luis, (02652) 97&.19-&980.7989-* 445-141; ranger station at park (&3>437.2<-.1* entrance. 8am–9pm daily. 5&88.3,(&(9.&14*8 only Spanish. &3)8-7:'8247* www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar &2'.9.4:8-.0*+4114<8 9-*(&3>437.284:9- "-**34724:847&3,*7*) +47&'4:9-&1+&3-4:7 8&3)8943*(&3>4384+&76:* &3)-&8'*99*7;.*<8 &(.43&1!.*77&)*1&8 +742-.,-*7(1.++8 :./&)&8,*9+&7+*<*7;.8.9478 3&)).9.4394.98 9-&39-*.785*(9&(:1&78(*3*7> 3&9:7&1&55*&1&8 Moorish-style Iglesia de Santo Domingo 2*7.98 97*&8:7*-4:8*+47 :./&)&8&184-&8 5&1*439414,.8989-.8.257*8 3:2*74:8&7(-&*4 8.;*3*9<4704+(&3>438.8 14,.(&18.9*8*9<**39-*5&70 3479-<*89.8;*3.)& 11.&& 5&794+&3479-*735&1*4394 7*89&:7&39&3)'&7).897.(9 *397&3(*&3),:&)&9-* 14,.(&1(.7(:.99-&9.3(1:)*8 7*(*391>*=(&;&9*)Hornillos 4:7'14(0884:9-&184 Huarpes4;*38<-*7*9-* !&3:&388(-.,:&1&894 .257*88.;*1>1&3)8(&5*).8

&3)& .4/&8 5&70857*41:2'.&35*451*8 Plaza Independencia9-*(.9>8 "&1&25&>& +.7*)9-*.7(*7&2.(8.8&8.,-9 49-*7(*397&186:&7*&3) '4:9 2.11.43>*&78 -42*94Palacio de Gobierno 4+.39*7*89 &,4.39-*7*9&(*4:85*7.4) 9-*574;.3(.&1,4;*732*39

+1>.3,7*59.1*8 -4:8* 5548.9*9-*51&?&.8 Iglesia de Santo Domingo& 74&2*)9-*&7*&+7**1> -&1+-4:7-.0*+7429-*5&708 9-(*39:7>(-:7(-':.19.3 Road Map B2. 174 miles (280 km) E 447.8-89>1* *397&3(*1*&)8949-*Loma of Mendoza. 152,198. del Pterodaustro&+488.1+.*1)

Avenida Illia and Junín, (02652) Environs 4+).348&:77*2&.38 423-957. www.sanluis.gov.ar 31> 2.1*8 02 ,7&;*174&)1*&).3,:5& 3479-*&894+!&3:.8.89-* 3&774<8*).2*39&7>(&3>43 *2*7,*843949-*85*(9&(:1&7 &11.3,.98*1+9-*&9*<&>94 -.1189&9.434+Potrero de los Funes<-*7*9-*(&5.9&18 :>4!&3:.8.8&9.)>574 5&347&2&84+9-*Potrero de ;.3(.&1(&5.9&1<-48*(4143.&1 7*8.)*3989&0*&'7*&0<.9- la Aguada<-.(-.814(&9*) &'4:9 2.1*802+7429-* ,7.)(439&.38&997&(9.;*5:'1.( <&9*785479847-478*7.).3, 85&(*88:(-&8Plaza Pringles .39-*3*&71>74&)1*88!.*77& 5&70*397&3(*"-.8.8&;*7. 9&'1*2&?*4+82&11(&3>438 "-.8.89-*(*39*74+9-*(.9> )*!&3:.8 )42.3&9*)'>9-*3*4(1&88.(&1 1*&).3,94&)7>1&0*'*) Iglesia Catedral Iglesia Catedral<.9-.989<.3 :(-5-494,7&5-*)9-* Pringles and Rivadavia. Tel (0264) '*1194<*78&3)*1&'47&9*1> 2&/*89.( ,:&)&.8'*89 424-414. daily. *3/4>*)):7.3,8:38*9<-*3 8(:159*)5*).2*39"49-*

View of the red rocks of the Potrero de la Aguada, Parque Nacional Sierra de las Quijadas For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp281–2 and pp299–300

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Road Map B3. 143 miles (230 km) S of Mendoza. 110,000.

Avenida Hipólito Yrigoyen 741, (02627) 424-217. www.sanrafael. gov.ar

9.)>2.)8.?*(.9>!&3 &+&*1.8034<3+479-*2&3> 8.,-989-&98:774:3).94(&9*) <-*7* @48 .&2&39*&3) 9:*1*2*7,*+7429-*3)*&3 +449-.118!&3 &+&*1-&8,7&) :&11>*3;*145*)2&3>4+9-* Display of rural life in the Museo Regional Malargüe 857&<1.3,;.3*>&7)8&3)5748 5*74:8<.3*7.*89-&943(* (4758*&3)*;*3).348&:7 ,7*<&74:3).992&>1&(0 7*2&.38"-*82&11(.9>.8&184 Road Map B3. 43 miles (70 km) 9-*574;.3(.&1(&5.9&18 9-*'&8*+47*=5147.3,574 NW of Malargüe. Tel (02627) ;.3(.&157*8*7;*8<.9- +&8-.43&'1*'4:9.6:*45*7& 471-100. 9.438':9,74<*788:(-&8 (&;*8'.7)7.(-<*91&3)8 www.laslenas.com &3);41(&3.((43*8 Bodega Valentín Bianchi &3)!:9*7'49--.,-1> Environs 4(&9*).39-*3)*8 7*85*(9*)3&2*8.39-* <*&19-4+1.991*;.8.9*) 3479-<*894+&1&7,B*&8 <.3*.3):897>&7* 3&9:7*57*8*7;*88:7 *A&8-&8&':3)&39834<&3) 14(&9*)-*7* 74:3)&1&7,B*9-*2489 9-*'*89.3+7&897:(9:7*4+&3> 3&)).9.4394.77.,&9.3, 545:1&74+9-*2'*.3, 7,*39.3.&380.7*84793479-4+ 9-*;.3*>&7)8 @4 9:*1 Reserva Natural Laguna .8&89&79*77.;*7+477&+9*78 &7.14(-* !42* de Llancanelo4(&9*) (438.)*7.99-*'*89.39-* <-.1*9-*<.1)*7 @4 2.1*8 0284:9-4+ (4:397> 5*3+7422.):3* .&2&39*4++*78842* 9-*(.9>9-.8.8& 4+9-*2489*=(.9.3, 94*&71>(94'*7.9*3/4>8& A fine wine 857&<1.3,

86 143,*78*&8439-&348 <-.9*<&9*77&+9.3, from Bodega 2.1* 862.1* *3.9*39*89-*574;.3(*8 .39-*(4:397> Valentín Bianchi 49-*7545:1&780.(*39*7 <*91&3)<.9-+14(08 Bodega Valentín Bianchi "-*7*8479-&89-*(&5&(.9> 4+2.,7&947>'.7)8Reserva Ruta Nacional 143, Las Paredes, 94-4:8*&1248980.*78 Natural La Payunia.8& San Rafael. Tel (02627) 435-600. 862.1* 8602;41 .3-49*18&3)&5&792*398&3) 9am–12:30pm & 2–5:15pm (&3.(57*8*7;*<.9-&91*&89 9-*'&8*(1.*39*1*&9&8 Mon–Sat. ,:&3&(48&3)49-*7 *A&8&7*2&.31>5479*A48 www.vbianchi.com 85*(.*84+<.1)1.+*Reserva &3)+47*.,3*7843<**0143, Natural Caverna de las Brujas 5&(0&,*8!9.11&8*A&8 .8&8*7.*84+89:33.3,1.2* 4++*78-&1+57.(*1.+99.(0*98 8943*:3)*7,74:3)(&;*89-&9 94)&>97.55*78<-414),* &7*45*3949-*5:'1.( .33*&7'>&1&7,B* Road Map B3. 115 miles (186 km) S $.39*7.8-.,-8*&843

Museo Regional Malargüe -*7*':9&8*A&87*2&.38 of San Rafael. 17,710 Avenida San Martín s/n. Tel (02627) 45*34;*78:22*7+47

Ruta Nacional 40 and Pasaje 470-154. 9am–1pm & 4–7pm, La Orteguina, (02627) 470-027. 24:39&.3'.0*78-.0*78 Tue–Sun. Fiesta Nacional de Chivo (Jan), &3)49-*77*(7*&9.43.898

Día de Malargüe (Nov). www. malargue.gov.ar

1&.)'&(094<3&1&7,B* -&843*4+9-*248985*(9& (:1&71&3)8(&5*8.37,*39.3& "-*94<3.85*7-&58'*89 034<3+47.981.;*1><**0 143,.*89&&(.43&1)*1 -.;4&9.43&1 4&9 *89.;&1 3*4+9-*8.,-98 9-&99-*(.9>4++*78.8Museo Regional Malargüe 4:8*) .3&(4143.&1':.1).3,9-* 2:8*:2-&8&;&7.*)(411*( 9.439-&9.3(1:)*8(1&>5.5*8 7*6:.7*)+477*1.,.4:8(*7* 243.*8/*<*17>&2:22.+.*)

View of a snowcapped mountain at Las Leñas ski resort in summer

3+ )%* %* %#!*+1/ #.+1,/ +.%#%*((5%*$%0! 0#+*%6 0$! ,1$! * !$1!($! +.01#1!/! !4,(+.!. !. %** #!((*3/0$!"%./01.+,!* 0+ %/+2!.0$!.!#%+*%* 2!*01.!./ )!.$*0/ * ,%.0!/ "+((+3! %* $%/ 3'! (0$+1#$ *+ ,!.)*!*0 +(+*5 3/ !/0(%/$! 1*0%( 0$! (0! 0$!*01.5 "0!.#%*%*#%0/%* !,!* !*! .#!*0%*) !+*!.0! !""+.0/0+ /!00(! 0#+*% * !(/$ ,%+*!!./(* ! 01!.0+ .5** 0$! /)! ! ! 0$! .#!*0%*%* #+2!.*)!*0 (1*$! )%(%0.5 ) ,%#*/ #%*/0 0$! ,1$! * !$1!($!,100%*#*!* 0+((%* % #!*+1/ .!/%/0*! %* 0$! .!#%+* +3*/ /1$ / 1*7* ! (+/ * !/ * .%(+$! 3!.! "+1* ! %* 0$! ,1$!$!.0(* * ,+,1(0! 5 1.+,!*%))%#.*0/%(.+ /,+.0/

* *!3/!00(!)!*0/3!.!1%(0 0+ /!.2! 0$! 1.#!+*%*# 3++( %* 1/0.5 + 5 +%( #/ * "%/$%*# $2! 1/1.,! 3++( / 0#+*%/ )&+. /+1.! +" %*+)!* (+//+)%*#0+1.%/0 %* 1/0.5 $/ ! "1.0$!. ,.+/,!.%050+0$!.!#%+* %/%0+./ * !*&+5 3% ! .*#! +" +10 ++. 0%2%0%!/ %*(1 %*# $+./!.% %*# 0.!''%*# "(5"%/$%*# +0%*# * ."0%*# * 3%( (%"! 30$%*# (( 0$! 3$%(! )%.%*# 0#+*%/ /,!01(. /!*!.5 0/ %0%!/ * 0+3*/ .!)%* 1/5 !*0!./ +"1(01.!* !*0!.0%*)!*0+""!.%*# !4!((!*0 )1/!1)/ * .!/01.*0/ +)! (%'! .!(!3 * %)* .! /0%(( -1%*0!//!*0%((5 !(/$ +),(!0! 3%0$ $,!(/ 0!/$+,/ * !(/$ /05(! $+1/!/ * !//!*! 0$! .!#%+* $/ $*#! (%00(! ".+) %0/ ,%+*!!. ,/0* .!)%*/!10%"1(.!)+0! * /,./!(5,+,1(0! 3%( !.*!//

A colony of sea lions basking on a gravel beach in Península Valdés

The icy peak of Cerro Torre, Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

KEY

/44%$7)4(,!+%3!.$/6%2,//+%$"94(% .$%34(% !+%)342)#4)3!4!'/.)!3-/340/05,!2$%34).!4)/. 43")''%344/7.!2),/#(%2%#%)6%3-!.96)3)4/23"54 4(%2%!2%15)%4%2!,4%2.!4)6%335#(!3!.!24>.$%,/3

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Highway Main road Minor road International border Provincial border Peak

SEE ALSO 00 ; 00 ;

Guanacos grazing on a mountain slope

GETTING AROUND (%"%347!94/'%4!2/5.$ !4!'/.)!)3"9!)2/2,/.'$)34!.#% "53!2),/#(%!.$,!,!&!4% (!6%).4%2.!4)/.!,!)20/243!.$ -!.93-!,,%2$%34).!4)/.3!2% 3%26%$"9$/-%34)#&,)'(4353 3%26)#%3,).+).'4/7.3!.$#)4)%3 ).4(%2%')/.!2%2%,)!",%4(/5'( 3/-%2%-/4%3)'(43#!."% 2%!#(%$/.,9"9#!2/26)! /2'!.):%$%8#523)/./4/2)343 3(/5,$./4%4(!4-!.92/!$3!2% 5.0!6%$!.$'!334!4)/.33#!2#% ()3)3%30%#)!,,94(%#!3%/.54! !#)/.!,

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Towns and Cities

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A view from Viedma across Río Negro of Iglesia Parroquial Nuestra Señora del Carmen

Road Map C4. 569 miles (915 km) S of Buenos Aires. 20,000. Bynon 186, (02920) 461-777. Fiesta de 7 de Marzo (Mar).

6;/;/,569;/,95.(;,>(@ ;6!(;(.650((5+(/0:;690*(3 1,>,3;/,:4(33;6>56- (94,5+,!(;(.65,:>(: -6<5+,+(:(-69;:,;;3,4,5; 05 $/,-09:;:,;;3,9: (990=,+-964#7(05(@,(93(;,9 (5+>,9,-69*,+;6+0.*(=,: 05;6;/,)(52:6-"E6 ,.96 -69:/,3;,9;/,9,4(05:6- >/0*/*(5:;033),:,,5 $6,?7369,;/,;6>5: /0:;69@=0:0;69::/6<3+/,(+ ;6;/,1<4)3,6-:;9,,;: ),;>,,5!3(A(+,(9A6 (5+;/,769;(9,( 5;/, >(;,9-965;/6<:,+05( )<03+05.+(;05.-964 0: Museo Histórico Regional Emma Nozzi ;/(:+0:73(@: 65 ;/*,5;<9@(94,5+, !(;(.65,:65,6-;/,63+ :,;;3,9:*(=,:*(5),(**,::,+ =0(;/,4<:,<4:7(;06 5;/,73(A(0:Iglesia Parroquial Nuestra Señora del Carmen $>6 9(A030(5-3(.:

/(5.65,0;/,9:0+,6-0;: (3;(9*(7;<9,+05 (-;,9 ;/,+,-,(;6-(9(A030(505=( :065-69*, 5;/,:(4,)36*2 (3;/6<./:30./;3@6):*<9,+0: ;/, Torre del Fuerte>(;*/ ;6>,9;/,:05.3,:<9=0=05. 9,45(5;6-;/,;6>5:690.05(3 4030;(9@-69;#,=,9(34<+)90*2 ()6+,:-964;/,,(93@ : 36*(;,+:6<;/6-;/,;6>,9 (9,67,5;6=0:0;:05*3<+05. Rancho Rial>/03,Casa de la

Cultura0:65,)36*2,(:;6-

;/,;6>,96:;-(46<: ;/6<./0:La Carlota(5 : /6<:,(**,::,+=0(.<0+,+ ;6<9-964;/,<:,60:;F90*6 Museo Histórico Regional

Emma Nozzi Ave J.J. Biedma 64. Tel (02920) 462-729. varies (call in advance).

Road Map C4. 1 mile (2 km) S of Carmen de Patagones. 60,000.

Ave Francisco de Viedma 51, (02920) 427-332. Fiesta de 7 de Marzo (Mar).

4<:,<4 Museo Salesiano Cardenal Cagliero ;0: /6<:,+>0;/05;/,Manzana Histórica(/0:;690*(3*0;@ )36*2;/(;>(:65*,;/,/,(+ 8<(9;,9:6-;/,#(3,:0(540: :065;/(;>(:,:;()30:/,+05 $/,4<:,<479,:,9=,: :64,:73,5+0+(9*/0;,*;<9(3 +,;(03:(5++0:73(@:=(906<: 9,30.06<:(9;0-(*;:3:6>69;/ =0:0;05.0:Museo Antropológico Gobernador Eugenio Tello(; !3(A(#(5(9;E5>/0*//(: +0:73(@:65;/,(9,(:79, 63<4)0(5*0=030A(;065:

6*(;,+(*96::"E6 ,.96 -964(94,5+,!(;(.65,: %0,+4(0:(:4(33;6>5;/(; 6--,9:.66+;9(=,3,9:,9=0*,: ;(3:6)6(:;:>/(;0:*65 :0+,9,+;6),!(;(.650(: 46:;(,:;/,;0*(33@05:709,+

Museo Salesiano

Cardenal Cagliero Avenida Rivadavia 34. varies. Museo Antropológico

Gobernador Eugenio Tello Avenida San Martín 263. Tel (02920) 425-900. varies (call in advance).

THE WELSH IN PATAGONIA $/,&,3:/79,:,5*,05 !(;(.650(+(;,:-964 >/,5 706 5,,9::,;:(03-69(3(5+ ;/,@:(>(:-9,,6- 5.30:/+6405(;065 $/,@4(+,3(5+-(33;>6 465;/:3(;,9-6<5+05. !<,9;6(+9@565;/, A Welsh farmhouse in Gaiman 9.,5;050(5*6(:; ),-69,:,;;305.403,: 24;6;/,:6<;/05;/,469,-,9;03,/<)<;%(33,@; 0:;/0:9,.065;/(;*65:;0;<;,:;/,/,(9;6-&,3:/!(;(.650( ,9,&,3:/*/(7,3:+6;;/,3(5+:*(7,;,(/6<:,:(9,9<5 )@;/,7065,,9:+,:*,5+,5;:(5+05(04(5,:7,*0(33@ ;/,&,3:/3(5.<(.,0:>0+,3@:762,5$/,@,(9:)0..,:; *,3,)9(;0650:;/,0:;,++-6+ (&,3:/4<:0*(5+ 76,;9@-,:;0=(3;/(;+(;,:-9644,+0,=(3;04,:

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp283–6 and pp301–2

! $

,*/66-$9,3,>:7065,,97(:; =0:0;;/,/0:;690*(33@;/,4,+

Road Map B4. 227 miles (365 km) SW of Viedma. 80,000. Ave Roca 223, (02965) 456-067.

#0;<(;,+65;/,:/69,:6- 63-6 <,=6!<,9;6(+9@5 /(:(/0:;690*(3)(*2.96<5+ ;/(;+(;,:-964 >/,5 ;/,-09:;.96<76-&,3:/706 5,,9:3(5+,+650;::/69,:; 0:;/,.(;,>(@;665,6-;/, >693+:.9,(;,:;4(905,:7,* ;(*3,:(;",:,9=(!96=05*0(3 !,5E5:<3(%(3+D:(5+0: 256>5-690;::(5+@),(*/,: 9,3(?,+7(*,(5+.66+ :,(-66+9,:;(<9(5;: $/,;6>5:,?*,33,5; Museo de Ciencias Naturales y Oceanografía796=0+,:05-69

4(;06565;/,;/90=05.6*,(5 30-,5,(9)@>/03,;/,6<; :;(5+05. EcoCentro(04:;6 79646;,(5<5+,9:;(5+05.6- ;/9,(;,5,+4(905,:7,*0,: 6*(;,+*36:,)@!3(@(3 69(+03360:(796;,*;,+),(*/ (5+)9,,+05.(9,(-69;/, #6<;/,95"0./;>/(3,>/03, !<5;(64(0:/64,;6( @,(996<5+:,(3065*6365@ Museo de Ciencias

Naturales y Oceanografía Domecq García & José Menéndez. Tel (02965) 451-139. varies (call in advance). EcoCentro Julio Verne 3784. Tel (02965) 457470. varies (call in advance). www.ecocentro.org.ar

See pp226–7.

Museo Regional Pueblo de Luis/6<:,+>0;/05;/,*0;@:

63+9(0396(+:;(;065(5+;/, :,;;3,9:.9(=,:(;Capilla Moriah’s*,4,;,9@>/0*/ 05*3<+,;/(;6-,>0:65,: ;/,;6>5:-6<5+,9 Museo Paleontológico

Egidio Feruglio Avenida Fontana 140. Tel (02965) 432-100. varies (call in advance). www.mef.org.ar Museo Regional Pueblo Prehistoric plants at Museo Paleontológico Egidio Feruglio

Road Map B4. 40 miles (65 km) S of Puerto Madryn. 120,000.

Pellegrini 780, (02965) 431519. www.trelewpatagonia.gov.ar

de Luis Avenida 9 de Julio & Fontana. Tel (02965) 424-062. 8am–8pm Mon–Fri, 2–8pm Sat & Sun.

Road Map B4. 11 miles (18 km) W of Trelew. 6,000. Belgrano, between Rivadavia & 28 de Julio; (02965) 491-571.

:4(33(;;9(*;0=,;6>5 $9,3,>0:(50+,(3)(:,-964 >/0*/;6,?7369,;/,&,3:/ =033(.,:6-;/,/<)<;%(33,@ 6<5+,+05 (04(5 ;:5(4,05&,3:/4,(5: 0:;/,46:;8<05;,::,5;0(33@ B=033(.,6-,>0:C &,3:/6-(33;/, <*/6-0;: =033(.,:6-;/, 690.05(3&,3:/ /<)<;%(33,@,:; */(9(*;,9/(: 256>5-690;:;,( */(5.,+(5+ /6<:,: (04(50: 46:;=0:0;69::;67 (3:690*/05/0:;69@ )@05:;,(+-69;/, $/,:4(33Museo Histórico Regional ;6>5: Museo Sign outside a Welsh teahouse in Gaiman Paleontológico /6<:,+05;/,63+ Egidio Feruglio 9(0396(+:;(;065/(: 9.,5;05(:79,40,9 ,?*,33,5;,?/0)0;:65(04(5: 7(3,65;636.0*(34<:,<4$/, 7065,,97(:;#0;<(;,+>0;/05 4<:,<4/(:,?;,5:0=,-6::03 (-,>)36*2:6-;/,;6>5: *633,*;065:;/(;+(;,)(*2 -36>,9-033,+!3(A("6*((9, Primera Casa (04(5:-09:; 4033065@,(9:$/,:;(9,?/0 )0;:/6>,=,9(9,;/,30-, )<03;/6<:,(5+Capilla Vieja :0A,++056:(<9:2,3,;65:(5+ 0;:63+,:;*/(7,3)6;/6- ;/,+056:(<9,..:69(5 >/0*/+(;,-964;/,7065,,9 ,9( $/,46:;(<;/,5;0*6- (04(5:;,(/6<:,:Ty Gwyn Ty Nain(5+Plas y Coed(9,(3:636*(;,+*36:, ;6!3(A("6*( 3:65,(9;/,73(A(0: Parque El Desafio(505;,9,:; 05.:0;,-033,+>0;/6(8<E5 365:6:>692:$/,B(30 6-9,*@*305.C365:6/(: 463+,+;/6<:(5+:6-*(5: )6;;3,:(5+/6<:,/63+(7730 (5*,:05;6>692:6-(9;;/(; 05*3<+,9,*9,(;065:6-;/,$(1 (/(3(5+!0*(::6:7(05;05.:

A summer day at the beach in Puerto Madryn

Museo Histórico Regional 28 de Julio 705. 3−7pm Tue−Sun.

!

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STAR SIGHTS

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp283–6 and pp301–2

FEEDING FRENZY &.;.35,"",%:3*3#&,*&6&%4/ #&4)&/.,90,"$&*.4)&7/2,% 7)&2&/2$"+*,,&27)",&3 &.("(&*.4)&30&$4"$,&/'*.4&. 4*/.",#&"$)342".%*.()& /2$" 53&34)&4*%&".%34/2-34)& Orca attacking a sea lion #&"$))&"%/.%&,*#&2"4&,925. pup in shallow surf .*.(*43&,'"(2/5.%4/$"4$)*43 02&9535",,9"3&",*/.050/2"."%5,40&.(5*. )&. 35#3&15&.47"6&3,*'44)&/2$" #"$+*.4/4)&/$&".*43)"2&3 *4302&97*4)4)&2&34/'*430/%)*30)&./-&./.4"+&3 0,"$&"4",&4"",%:3".%-/2&/'4&."45.4"/24&

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Road Map C4. 35 miles (56 km) NE of Puerto Madryn. Puerto Madryn. from Puerto Madryn. from Puerto Pirámides (Sep–Nov). Puerto Madryn Ave Roca 223, (02965) 453-504; Istmo Ameghino Centro de Interpretación; Puerto Pirámides (02965) 495048. Faro Punta Delgada Tel (02965) 458-444. www.puntadelgada.com

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Road Map B4. 66 miles (107 km) S of Trelew. Sep–Apr: 8am–8pm daily. Ruta Provincial 1 S of Trelew, (02965) 15 565–222.

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Road Map B5. 156 miles (252 km) S of Trelew. 1,100. Thomas Espora y San Martín, (0297) 4963040. Fiesta Nacional del Salmón (Feb).

3&774<8943>5*3.38:1& 9-&9/:984:9&'7:591>.3949-* 91&39.((*&3:39&"42'48 (1&.294+&2*.89-&9.9-&7 .9*7&11>97&381&9.3,.394 '478!4:9-2*7.(&81&7,*89 @8-7.258A&2&743*8.8& (4143>4+&,*11&3.(5*3 ,:.38742!*59*2'*794 82&115.(9:7*86:*+.8-.3, 57.14;*7 4+9-*8* ;.11&,*4+43*8947>':.1).3,8 '1&(0&3)<-.9*'.7)8:8*9-* &3)):89>897**984(&9*)43 5*3.38:1&94.3(:'&9*9-*.7 9-*8-47*84+&3*543>24:8 *,,8&3)57*5&7*9-*.74++ '&>9-.8;.11&,*.89-*2&.3 857.3,+472.,7&9.43"-*> 54.394+&((*8894Reserva 3*89.38(7&5*8:3)*73*&9- Provincial Cabo dos Bahías Museo Histórico de 9-*':8-*8&3)'49-2&1*&3) Camarones<.9- +*2&1*5*3,:.389&0*9:738 -.8947.(&1).851&>843 9489&3),:&7).3+74394+ 9-*;.11&,*85.43**7 9-*.73*8985749*(9.3,*,,8 5&89.8.9843*(:19:7&1 +742&;.&357*)&9478 54.394+7*+*7*3(* "-*8*57*)&9478.3(1:)* 8*(43)2:8*:2.8'*.3, 9-**&8.1>8.,-9*),.&39 51&33*)94-4347+472*7 5*97*1&8<*11&8;&7.4:8 7,*39.3.&357*8.)*39 85*(.*84+,:1180:& &3)(47247&39 :&342.3,4*7C3 "-*8*-:2'1* <-4 A Magellanic penguin 5*3,:.38&7*349&8 85*392:(-4+-.8 ,1&2474:8&89-*.7 (-.1)-44)-*7* 1&7,*7(4:8.389-*0.3,&3) *25*7475*3,:.38$-.1*9-*> Environs '4:9 2.1*802 (&3'*4'8*7;*)+742 84:9-*&894+9-*94<3.8 *=97*2*1>(148*6:&79*78 *8*7;&74;.3(.&1&'4)48 ;.8.94783**)94'*(&7*+:1349 &-B&8<-.(-5749*(98& 9494:(-9-*23.)*&19.2* 89743,(4143>4+ 94;.8.9.8'*9<**34;*2'*7 &,*11&3.(5*3,:.38#.8.9478 &3)&3:&7><-*39-*7*&7* 51*39>4+(-.(085&79+742 (&3&1844'8*7;*9-*8*&1.43 9-*8*5*3,:.388*;*7&12&7.3* (4143>4381&47*34 '.7)8(&3&184'*85499*) "-*3*&7'>(4:397>8.)*.8& Museo Histórico de ,7*&951&(*948**1&3)+&:3& Camarones Estrada & Belgrano. 4–8pm .3(1:).3,&9&,43.&3-&7*8 daily. Spanish only. ,:&3&(48&3),7*&9*77-*&8

Comodoro Rivadavia along the majestic Golfo San Jorge

Road Map B5. 229 miles (370 km) S of Trelew. 250,000.

Rivadavia 430, (0297) 446-2376. www.comodoro.gov.ar

7,*39.3&84.1(&5.9&1&3)43* 4+9-*'.,,*89(.9.*843.98 91&39.((4&89424)474 .;&)&;.&.814(&9*)439-* 8-47*84+9-*2&/*89.(Golfo San Jorge&3).84;*71440*) '>Cerro Chenque1849-* 1*&)*7.37*3*<&'1**3*7,> 9-*(.9>.8-42*94&9.3 2*7.(&8'.,,*89<.3)+&72 7.11.3,7.,8&3)8947&,* 9&308(&389.11'*8**3.39-* (.9><-*7*4.1<&8+.789897:(0 .3 "-*8.9*(&3'* ;.8.9*)&9Museo Nacional del Petróleo<-*7**=-.'.9897&(* 9-**;41:9.434+7,*39.3&8 4.1.3):897>"-*(.9>87&.174&) -.8947>.897&(*)&9Museo Ferroportuario "-*8-4799&=. 7.)*94*774-*36:**3)8 <.9-'7*&9-9&0.3,;.89&84+ 41+4!&347,*9-*(.9>&3) 9-*'*&(-*8&99-*:58(&1* 7*84794+Rada Tilly Environs

"-***7.1>8.1*39<.3)+&72 El Parque Eólico Antonio Morán .82.1*8 02

4:98.)* &)& ".11> Museo Nacional del

Petróleo Carlos Calvo & San Lorenzo, Barrio General Moscón, Km3. Tel (0297) 455-9558. varies (call in advance). Spanish only. Museo Ferroportuario Ave Rivadavia & 9 de Julio. Tel (0297) 447-3330. varies (call in advance). Guanacos in the Reserva Provincial Punta Tombo For hotels and restaurants in region see pp283–6 and pp301–2

"

Road Map B5. 109 miles (175 km) W of Comodoro Rivadavia. Oct– Mar: 8am–9pm daily; Apr–Sep: 9am– 6:30pm daily. to Sarmiento, then taxi. Ave San Martín, Sarmiento, (0297) 489-8282.

349-*7<471)1>85*(9&(1* 9-.85*97.+.*)+47*89-&8.98 47.,.38.39-*7*9&(*4:8 5*7.4) 2.11.43>*&78&,4 19-4:,-+&782&11*7&3) 247*7*(*391>+472*)9-&3 9-* 43:2*394 &9:7&1 486:*8*97.+.(&)48.9.8 247**&8.1>&((*88.'1*&3> 94:745*7&9478.3424)474 .;&)&;.&7:3)&.1>*=(:78.438 949-*+47*89

Southern elephant seals on Isla Pingüino near Puerto Deseado

Road Map B5. 177 miles (286 km) S of Comodoro Rivadavia. 15,000. San Martín 1225, (0297) 487-0220. Fiesta del Marinero (Jan).

Fossilized remains at the Monumento Natural Bosques Petrificados

5&889-*8549<-*7*9-*7.9.8- <&78-.5! <&88-.5 <7*(0*).3 "-*<7*(0 <&8431>).8(4;*7*).3 *8(:*).9*28.3(1:).3,'*118 &3)$*),*<44)(-.3&&7* ).851&>*)&9Museo Municipal Mario Brozoski "-*94<3.8&9&,43.&8 ':8.*89+.8-.3,547994)&>':9 .39-*5&89.9)*5*3)*)439-* 8-.55.3,4+<441&3)2*&9 97&385479*);.&7&.1+7429-* .39*7.47"-*+472*77&.174&) 89&9.4334<-4:8*8Museo de la Estación Ferrocarril99-* (*39*74+9-*94<389&3)8& 5&88*3,*7<&,43':.19.3 <-.(-<&8:8*)9497&38 5479+*)*7&1541.(*):7.3,9-* !&39&7:?7*'*11.43.3 Environs

74:3) 2.1*8 02 84:9-4+94<3Isla Pingüino 5749*(98&82&11'7**).3, (4143>4+84:9-*73*1*5-&39 8*&18&3)&9&,43.&8431> 3*89.3,(4143>4+9-*74(0 -455*75*3,:.3

4(&9*)439-*8-*19*7*) *89:&7>4+ B4*8*&)49-* 1.991*547994<34+:*794 *8*&)4.843*4+&9&,43.&8 Museo Municipal Mario Brozoski '*890*598*(7*9894<*8.98 Brown y Colón. Tel (0297) 154-0043&2*943,1.8-57.;&9**7 099. varies (call in advance). "-42&8&;*3).8-<-4 8&.1*).3949-**89:&7>.3 3&2.3,.983&9:7&1-&7'47&+9*7 -.8+1&,8-.59-*

Road Map B5. 159 miles (256 km) W of Puerto Deseado. to Puerto Deseado, then taxi. 8am–6pm daily. from Puerto Deseado.

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

Reserva Natural Ría del Deseado5749*(989-**89:&7>8

2&7.3*+&:3&4&9*=(:78.438 -*&).3949-*57*8*7;*<-.(- .8&'7**).3,,74:3)+479-* ,7&(*+:1422*78438)415-.3 &3)-&;*3942&3>2&7.3* '.7)85*(.*8"7.58.3(1:)* ;.8.98949-*(1.++8.)*3*89.3, 8.9*84+7*)1*,,*)&3)74(0 (47247&398&3)94Isla de los Pájaros-42*94&(4143>4+ &,*11&3.(5*3,:.3839-* <&>949-*57*8*7;*'4&98

The fishing fleet on the Río Deseado in Puerto Deseado

"

%

Commerson’s dolphins can be spotted easily in the bay of San Julián

Road Map B5. 238 miles (383 km) S of Puerto Deseado. 10,000. Ave San Martín, between Rivadavia & Moreno, (02962) 452009. www.sanjulian.gov.ar

786*8(-.7& 1.0*

/1 )6.:*328-*(3&78&0(.6(9.8 &032,8-*!&290.A2'&= 3++*6.2,74*(8&(90&6:.*;7 Museo Muestra

Arqueología Ave Costanera 900. varies.

mid-Mar–mid-Dec: Sat–Sun.

0&.1.2,83'*8-*'.68-40&(* 3+&8&,32.&9*683!&2 90B&2;&78-*7.8*3+8-* +.678 9634*&27*880*1*28.2 6,*28.2&+392)*)'= 3689,9*7**<4036*6 Road Map B6. 28 miles (45 km) SE *6).2&2)&,*00&2.2 of Puerto Santa Cruz. to Luis 6&2(.76&/*7332 Piedra Buena, then taxi. 9 de +3003;*)79.8)6344.2, Julio and Belgrano, Puerto Santa &2(-36.2.877-.2,0* Cruz. Nov–Apr: daily. '&2/*)'&=.2 *74.8*291*6397 4&68+631'*.2, &88*1487&8(3032.>&8.32 &4*61&2*287*880*1*28 6,*28.2&72*;*78 2&8.32&04&6/8-.7.7&073 ;&7238*78&'0.7-*)928.0 8-**&60= 7;.8- 8-*320=32*7.89&8*) Cormorants on 8-*&66.:&03+6.8.7- &032,8-*(39286=7 Monte León cliffs 7-**4+&61*67+631 80&28.((3&78 8-*&0/0&2)70&2)7 &659*&(.32&0328**C2 ;&7(6*&8*).2 834638*(8 70&7&0:.2&7

1.0*7 /13+(3&780.2* "-*-.,-0.,-87.28-*(.8= .2(09)* Museo Rosa Novak &2) 751.0*7 75 ;-.(--&7).740&=732*&60= /173+&8&,32.&278*44*87 7-**4+&61.2,4.32**67&2) :.6,.2(3&780.2*)388*);.8- Monumento Primera Misa ;-*6*8-*(39286=7+.678 1&77;&7-*0)8-*)&=&+8*6 &,*00&270&2)+&003(&8*) 2*&6'= Museo Muestra Arqueología-&7*<-.'.87 328-*6*,.327.2).,*2397 (90896*73;*:*68-*78&6 &886&(8.32&6*8-*0.:*0=43)7 3+311*67327)304-.27.2 !&290.A27'&=073.28-* '&=&6*Isla Cormorán&2)Isla Justicia;-37*7-36*7&6* -31*830&6,*(3032.*73+ &,*00&2.(4*2,9.27

.70&2)76**+7(3:*7(0.++7 &2)(&:*627.7.87'.,,*78 &886&(8.32 "-*4&6/463:.)*7 6*+9,*831&6.2*+&92&8-&8 .2(09)*77*&0.32&2)4*2,9.2 (3032.*743)73+8-*,6&(*+90 '0&(/&2);-.8*311*67327 )304-.23:*6 74*(.*73+ '.6)7&2)8-6**8=4*73+ (36136&28"-*4&6/7(3&78.7 &073&78&8.32+36(*8&(*&27 79(-&78-*9786&06&2/ ;-&0*.,-0.,-87;.8-.28-* 4&6/.2(09)*Monte León Island&1&6.2*'.6)2*78.2, 7.8*&2)La Olla&2&896&0 63(/+361&8.32(327.78.2,3+& (.6(90&6(&:.8=7944368*)'=& +81-.,-2&896&0&6(- 7-368).78&2(*.27.)*8-* 4&6/*286&2(*378*6.&328* *C24&683+8-**78&2(.&3+ 8-*7&1*2&1*3++*67,6&2) 947(&0*03),.2,

Hosteria Monte León Ruta Nacional 3, Km 2385. Tel (011) 4621-4780.

Road Map B6. 215 miles (347 km) S of PuertoSan Julián. 86,000. Ave San Martín & Roca, (02966) 438-725. www.riogallegos. gov.ar

2.14368&284368(.8= B3 &00*,37.7&0738-*(&4.8&0 3+!&28&69>463:.2(*"-* +.6784*340*837*880*-*6* ;*6*6.8.7-7-**4+&61*67 +6318-*&0/0&2)70&2)7 70&7&0:.2&7.28-* 7 2 B3 &00*,37 '*(&1*8-*4368+631 ;-.(-03(&0;330 463)9(*;&7*<4368*) .(/2&1*)?;-.8*,30)@ ;3307978&.2*)8-*03(&0 *(3231=928.08-* 8- (*2896=;-*28-*7-.4 4.2,3+(3&0+631 B3 "96'.3 '639,-8 &'3982*;46374*6.8= "3)&=.8.78-.7?'0&(/ ,30)@&2),&78-&8 463:.)* B3 &00*,37 ;.8-13783+.87.2(31* 9(-3+8-*(.8=7 &6(-.8*(896*)&8*7+631 Environs 8-* 7*74*(.&00= &032,.871&.2786**8 #2743.08'*&(-*7&2)731* :*2.)&!&2&68B2 -.7836.(&07.8*7)388-*'*&98. 3;*:*6731*398 +90(3&78&0:*2.)&*62A2)* 78&2).2,*<&140*73+ &,&00&2*7;-.(-786*8(-*7 4.32**6*6&(327869(8.32 La Olla in Parque Nacional Monte León 2368-+631!&290.A2"-* For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp283–6 and pp301–2

"

Pioneer-era building from the 1890s, now housing Museo de los Pioneros, Río Gallegos

(&278.00'*7**29.08'= !&0*7.&21.77.32&6.*7.2 8-*(3669,&8*)8.2&2);33) 7869(896*3+Catedral Nuestra Señora de Luján.7(-&6&(8*6 .78.(3+8-&84*6.3)&7.78-* 7'9.0).2,8-&8-397*7 Museo de los Pioneros "-.7 197*912&66&8*78-*7836=3+ 8-**&60=7-**47*880*67"-* 2*&6'= Museo Ferroviario Roberto Gailán.7-397*).2 &230)6&.063&))*438&2)692 '=;36/*670&.)3++&+8*68-* (03796*3+8-*30) B3 "96'.3 B3 &00*,3786&.20.2* *7836*) =*&630)78*&1 *2,.2*78-&832(*;36/*) 8-*0.2*&6*32).740&=.2 8-*+36*(3968 Catedral Nuestra

Señora de Luján Ave San Martín 739. 9am–6pm Mon–Fri. Museo de los Pioneros Elcano & Juan Bautista Alberdi. Tel (02966) 437-763. 10am– 7:30pm daily. Spanish only.

6&2(-.7&;36/.2,7-**4 +&619*78778&=.28-*1&.2 -397*;-.0*&(8.:.8.*7.2(09)* 7-**47-*&6.2,&2)-*6).2, )*132786&8.327&7;*00&7 86*//.2,'.6);&8(-.2,&2) -367*6.).2, 2*86&.00*&)783328* .2*63&-.00;.8-'6*&8- 8&/.2,:.78&73+8-*&,*00&2 !86&.8&2)".*66&)*09*,3 <(967.327+6318-**78&2(.& 692.283 *7*6:&63:.2(.&0 &'3$B6,*2*7;-.(-.7320= 1.0*7 /1&;&=

&'3$B6,*2*74638*(878-* 7*(32)'.,,*78(3032=3+ &,*00&2.(4*2,9.27.2!398- 1*6.(&&+8*6 *7*6:& 63:.2(.&0928&"31'3

:*6 4*2,9.27 97*8-*(&4*&7&2*78.2, ,6392)+631!*48*1'*683 46.0$.7.8367(&23'7*6:* 8-*7*(-&6.71&8.('.6)7+631 (037*59&68*67&032,& 1.0* /1032,2&896*86&.0 28-*2368-*&78*62(362*6 3+8-*46*7*6:*.78-*Faro de Cabo Vírgenes0.,-8-397* '9.08'=8-*6,*28.2.&2&:= .2 87 ;&88'90' 8-63;7&'*&1&80*&78

1.0*7 /1.2838-*7*& $.7.8367(&2(0.1'8-* 78*47 Road Map B6. 82 miles (133 km) S 838-*834+36740*2).):.78&7 of Río Gallegos. Ave San 3+8-*786&.87-368786300 Martín & Roca, (02966) 438-725. &;&=.78-*03:*0=Al Fin y al Cabo8*&-397*3;2*)'=8-* 3(&8*)&88-*+&67398-*628.4 78&2(.&328*.2*63&.0= *<(967.327838-*46*7*6:*&6* 3+8-*6,*28.2.&21&.20&2) &88-**286&2(*838-*!86&.83+ &66&2,*)'=839634*6&8367 &,*00&2 *7*6:&63:.2(.&0 +631 B3 &00*,37

Museo Ferroviario Roberto

Galián Mendoza 75. Tel (02966) 426766. 2–7pm Mon–Fri. Spanish only.

Road Map B6. 75 miles (120 km) S of Rio Gallegos. Tel (02966) 426900. Oct–Apr.

392)*).2 '=& 4.32**6.2,&8&,32.&2+&1.0= 8-**283278-.7'*&98.+90

The lighthouse built by the Argentinian Navy at Cabo Vírgenes

! #

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

One of the many fossilized trees in Patagonia’s petrified forests

Argentinosaurus huinculensis #,-"

#!!,-#'(,.+#, (/+-(-"#, (%(,,%"+#/(+%#/ &#%%#('2+,!( &,.+

- &#'%'!-"' 0#!"&,,#/ -(', -('', Rodolfo Coria /('6+( ),(/'567';2)%26+6+( +!'-#'(,.+.,$1' #!'(-(,.+.,

THE BIG FINDS ,*)255,/),1'5,1$6$*21,$,16+(/$56692'(&$'(5+$8( ,1&/7'('6+(',5&28(4;2)5(8(4$/1(934(+,5624,&53(&,(5 $1'6+(924/'5%,**(56',125$741(56,1**4271'!+(5( *4($6),1'5+$8()24&('5&,(16,565624(94,6(6+(24;21 6+(5,<(%(+$8,24$1'(82/76,212)34(+,5624,&/,)( The biggest finds $4(71($46+(')42042&.

'$6,1*)4206+(4(6$&(2753(4,2' 62 0,//,21;($45$*2

Giganotosaurus carolinii0,('( -"0(+%,

#!!,-+'#/(+, - &%('!'0#!"#'! -(',-('',-,,$.%%0, +#!"-'#'! - &%('!,#%2-",#3( -"-." +-.+".'-4*(16,125$7475#')$,

Dakosaurus andiniensis 0,'#$'& (3#%% (+#-,#'(,.+%#$,'(.-"#, &+#'+((#%+.%-"(', &#% %#('2+,!(-,#,(/+2,#-#'-!('# 0,(')2#'-"# #'

!

THE FOSSIL FINDERS $6$*21,$5%,**(56),1'59(4(),45653266('%;/$;3(45215 $1&+(4 7,//(402(4(',$)271'+!'-#'(,.+.,21+,5)$40 ,11246+9(56$6$*21,$&$40(&+$1,&7%(1$42/,1,71($46+(' #!'(-(,.+.,$1'6+(%21(52)$(,.+.,9(4()271'%; 8,5,6245,11246+9(56$6$*21,$,1

3

ÓP

3Ó P

2)75(2 $/(216=*,&2 *,',2(47*/,2 ,1!4(/(9,5 $924/'(:3(46,1 6+(34(3$4,1*$1' 02716,1*2))25 5,/,<('5.(/(6215

$I JDP

PATAGONIA’S FOSSIL SITES 1 2

Raúl Vacca

$IVCVU

HS P

The first dinosaur eggs

0+1/- +(&-" 0(+%,%+!,-#'(,.+ ',-#'!!+(.'#' 2,#'-#,-,#'-!('# '(-"+#,(/+20, 2 &#%2#'&+*. #'-!('#

3ÓP /F

3 4 5 6 7

Auca Mahuevo Bosque Petrificado José Ormachea (see p229) Bryn Gwyn Lago Barreales (see p234) Monumento Natural Bosques Petrificados (see p229) Plaza Huincul Villa El Chocón (see p237)

IMPORTANT EVENTS

Digging tools $1' (:&$8$6,21%475+(5 $4(75('625(3$ 4$6(6+()255,/)420 ,65(1620%,1*5(', 0(165$1'6+(162 &/($1,6

HOW THEY LOOKED +!'-#'(,.+.,+$'0$55,8( /,0%5$1'$8(4;/21*1(&.$1' 6$,/#!'(-(,.+., 9$5$1 $*,/(34('$6249,6+5+246$405 $1'329(4)7//(*5$(,.+., '#'#',#,+$'),15$1'$ ),5+/,.(6$,/

The herbivore Argentinosaurus huinculensis

1989: Argentinosaurus, the world’s biggest dinosaur, discovered near Plaza Huincul. 1995: The huge carnivore Giganotosaurus unearthed in Villa El Chocón. 1997: Dinosaur embryos with skin tissue intact discovered at Auca Mahuevo. 1999: MEF museum opens in Trelew, showcasing major fossil finds (see p225). 2000: Field work begins at Lago Barreales, Argentina’s largest fossil site. 2005: Discovery of Dakosaurus, giant marine crocodile. 2006: World’s largest-known terror bird, Phorusrhacid, uncovered in Patagonia.

The ocean-dwelling Dakosaurus andiniensis

The carnivore Giganotosaurus carolinii

A Titanosaurus embryo seen with the surrounding rock

"

$

Road Map B3. 40 miles (65 km) N of Neuquén. Tel (0299) 15-4048614. to Añelo, then taxi. Mon–Sun. prior arrangement only. www.proyectodino.com.ar

Contemporary Argentinian paintings at Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

Road Map B4. 345 miles (557 km) NW of Viedma. 300,000.

from Viedma. Félix San Martín 182, (0299) 442-4089. Sat & Sun. Aniversario de la Ciudad Neuquén (Sep), Feria Artesanos (Nov). www.neuquentur.gov.ar

':934<1&7,*1>.3).8:8* .89-*(.9>87&.174&)1.3* 4:8*).39-*1.3*841) &((4224)&9.43':.1).3,.8 Museo Paraje Confluencia <.9-).851&>8439-*-.8947> 4+ *:6:@3 39-*7*34;&9*) (&7,4<&7*-4:8*3*&7'>.8 9-*!&1&)*79* 2.1.4 !&7&(4<.9-9*2547&7> *=-.'.9.438'> 7,*39.3.&3&79.898

&9&,43.&8(422*7(.&1 -:' *:6:@3.89-*(&5.9&1 4+9-*574;.3(*4+9-* 8&2*3&2*9<&8& Environs (*39*7+479-*7*,.438 '4:9 2.1*8 02 <441&3)1*&9-*7.3):8 3479-4+9-*94<3.3 97>&3).9814(&9.43&9 San Patricio del Chañar 9-*(43+1:*3(*4+ A48 &7*8*;*7&1;.3*>&7)8 .2&>&3)*:6:@3 9-&9-&;*7&.8*)9-* 2&)*.9&3.25479&39 574+.1*4+&9&,43.&3 &,7.(:19:7&1(*39*7.3 <.3*2&0.3, 9-*49-*7<.8*&7.) Sculpture by Alfredo 4)*,&)*1.3)*1 574;.3(*"-*&77.;&1 :3)47:38,:.)*) Bigatti, MNBA 4+9-*7&.174&).39-* 94:78)&.1> *&71> 8+:79-*7'*3*+.99*) o 9-*94<3&3)9-*).8(4;*7>4+ Muse Nacional de Bellas Artes (MNBA) 4.1.39-*7*,.43.39-* 8 Mitre & Santa Cruz, Parque Central. &3)9-*)*;*1452*394+& Tel (0299) 443-6268. Dec− ->)74*1*(97.(.3):897>.39-* Mar: 9am−9pm Tue−Fri, 6−10pm 81*)947&5.),74<9- Sat−Sun; Apr−Nov: 9am−8pm 545:1&789454;*7+47 Tue−Fri, 4−8pm Sat−Sun. 6pm 9-48*;.8.9.3,9-*).348&:7 Tue−Sun (Spanish only). )*89.3&9.438#.11&1-4(C3 Museo Paraje Confluencia &3)1&?&:.3(:1*:6:@3 Independencia & Córdoba. .8&(43:7'&9.434+14<7.8* Tel (0299) 155-553-082. Dec– ':.1).3,89-&9(&3'*).;.)*) Mar: 8am–9pm daily; Apr–Nov: .3949<4).89.3(98*(9478 8am–8pm daily. :594<3&3) )4<394<3 "-*97**8-&)*) &76:**397&1).;.)*89-*8* 9<4&7*&8&3).8<-*7*2489 4+ *:6:@38(:19:7&18.,-98 &7*+4:3) 479-4+9-*5&70.8Museo

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Replica dinosaur skeletons on display at Museo Municipal Cármen Funes

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp283–6 and pp301–2

"

94'*&3.25479&391.30.3 9-**;41:9.434+).348&:7894 '.7)8 "-*+488.1.?*)7*2&.38 4+9-*8*&3)49-*7+.3)8&7* 43).851&>&99-*(*39*7 Environs

74:3) 2.1*8 02 84:9-<*894+*3974 &1*43941C,.(4.81&?& :.3(:1*=(&;&9.438.9*4+ 9-*1&7,*89 ).348&:794-&;**;*7'**3 ).8(4;*7*).39-*<471) #.8.9478(&38**.98-:,* +488.1.?*)80*1*943&99-* 94<38 Museo Municipal Cármen Funes Museo Municipal

Cármen Funes Avenida Córdoba 55. Tel (0299) 496-5486. varies (call in advance).

A dinosaur skeleton at Museo Municipal Ernesto Bachmann

9-*94<38(*39*7<-*7*43 9-*8-47*4+&3&79.+.(.&11&0* 9-*1&7,*+44957.3984+9-* -*7'.;474:8).348&:7 ,:&34)431&>57*8*7;*) 47*8:(-+44957.398(&3 '*4'8*7;*) 2.1*802 3479-4+#.11&1-4(C3&9 &B&)438(43).)4 Museo Municipal Ernesto Bachmann Accesso Centro Commercial. Tel (0299) 4901-230. Dec–Mar: 8am–9pm daily; Apr–Nov: 9am–7pm Mon–Fri, 9am–8pm Sat–Sun. under 6 free. Spanish only.

A dramatic roadside sign outside the small town of Villa El Chocón

Road Map B4. 50 miles (80 km) SW of Neuquén. 1,500. from Neuquén. (0299) 4901-242.

Museo de Sitio Ruta Nacional 237. 9am– 6:30pm daily.

Road Map B4. 93 miles (150 km) W of Neuquén. Ejército Argentino 217, Zapala, Neuquén; (02942) 431-982.

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A flock of flamingos at Parque Nacional Laguna Blanca

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Road Map B4. 118 miles (190 km) S of Aluminé. 30,000. from Neuquén. Ave San Martín and Juan Manuel de Rosas, (02972) 425-500. Fiesta Nacional de Montañés (Aug).

Sculpture of Jesus and his Disciples along Via Christi, Junín de los Andes

Road Map B4. 176 miles (284 km) W of Neuquén. 1,300. from Neuquén. Centro de Informes, Cristian Joubert 321, (02942) 496001. www.alumine.gov.ar

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Road Map B4. 242 miles (390 km) SW of Neuquén. 5,000. from Neuquén. Padre Milanesio 590, (02972) 491-160. Semana de la Artesania (Jul); National Trout Festival (Dec).

#-*7*,.43841)*898*991*2*39 :3B3)*1483)*8<&8 +4:3)*).3 &8&3&72> 4:95489):7.3,9-*4++*38.;* &,&.3899-*&5:(-*"*;*7&1 *=57*88.4384+9-.897.'&1(:1 9:7*&7*89.11+4:3)439-* 897**98&74:3)9-**-*" 8-&)*)1&?&"&3&79B3 Museo Mapuche.8&,44) 89&79.3,54.39<.9-&5:(-* &79.+&(98)&9.3,&8+&7'&(0&8

Museo Mapuche Ginés Ponte & Don Bosco. varies.

Pobladores

Delegación Parque Nacional Lanín

Intendencia Parque Nacional Lanín

Padre Milanesio 550. Tel (02972) 492-748. varies (call in advance).

Perito Moreno & Elordi. Tel (02972) 427-233. 8am–3pm Mon–Fri.

J.M. de Rosas 700. Tel (02972) 428766. varies (call in advance).

Boats for hire along the shore of Lago Lácar, San Martín de los Andes

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp283–6 and pp301–2

#

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Road Map B4. 14 miles 4;*7.3,&3&7*&4+ 862.1*8 86029-.8 (22 km) SW of Aluminé. /*<*14+&3&9.43&15&70<&8+472*).3 &3) from Junín and San Martín 5749*(98,1&(.&11&0*8;41(&3.(8:22.98&3)1:8- de los Andes. Intendencia +47*8989.8).;.)*).3943479-(*397&1&3)84:9-*73 Perito Moreno and Elordi, San 8*(9.438*&(-<.9-.984<3,&9*<&>94<3&3)*&(- Martín de los Andes; (02972) &((*88.'1*'>,7&;*174&)49-74&)8&3)-.0.3,97&.18 427-233. 97&;*78*9-*5&7080.79.3,'*&:9.+:11&0*8&3)(7488.3, ;&7.4:885*(.*84+3&9.;*+47*89;*7 &3.2&185*(.*8 Araucaria+47*898+14:7.8--*7* +.3)7*+:,*-*7*+7429-*.3974):(*)<.1)'4&7949-* #-*97**.88&(7*)949-* 3&9.;*(-59-*<471)882&11*89)**7=(*11*39 &5:(-*<-4*&9.98+7:.9&3) (&258.9*8&'4:3).39-*&7*&&8<*11 :8*.987*8.3+472*).(.3* Lago Tromen .8 +7.3,*)<.9- '*&(-*84+ ;41(&3.(8&3) &3) *-*" +47*8989-&8 +&':14:8;.*<8 4+9-*;41(&348 3479-+&(*

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Road Map B4. 124 miles (200 km) S of San Martín de los Andes. 120,000. Centro Cívico, (02944) 423-022. La Fiesta de la Nieve (mid-Aug). www.bariloche.com.ar

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp283–6 and pp301–2

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Road Map B4. 95 miles (153 km) SW of Bariloche. Bariloche. from Bariloche.

San Martín 24, Bariloche, (02944) 423-111. www.parquesnacionales. gov.ar Note: the best time to go is from December to March; skiing is late June to August; trekking is from December to March. Snow is common between May and September.

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Landscape just south of the sleepy town of El Bolsón, Patagonia

Road Map B4 75 miles (120 km) S of Bariloche. 20,000. Avenida San Martín y Gral, (02944) 492-604. Tue, Thu, & Sat. La Fiesta Nacional del Lúpulo (Feb). www.elbolson.gov.ar

.+/-.:5, ,: 3 /9:.+./-.+9:/4:.+'8+': 5,,+89-8+':56658:;4/:/+9,58 '*<+4:;8+9658:Mirador Plataforma/9'25515;:65/4: 5,,+8/4-
'/4/4-/:98+6;:':/54'9' ./66?8+:8+':/4:.+ 92 529D4/9'2'/*(')1 :5=4=.+8+' 8+2'>+*':3596.+8+ 2/4-+89:5:./9*'? ;91+89(')16')1+89 '4*9:8++:<+4*589 '22)54<+8-+/4:./9 Environs :5=4*;8/4-:.+ 85;4* 3/2+9 9;33+805/4+*(?'4 13,8532 529D4 /4)8+'9/4-4;3(+85, Spinning tops at Parque Nacional Lago Feria Artesanal Puelo='9)8+':+*:5 ,'3/2/+99++1/4-' 685:+)::8++99;).'9 7;/+:+8'2:+84':/<+:5 :.+.'@+2'4*:.+ '8/25).+/4:.+458:. 2:.5;-.:5;8/93/9-85=/4- 4':/<+:5./2+$.+9.58: Bosque de las Sombras4':;8+ /4 2 529D4:.+25)'2 +)5453?.'9:8'*/:/54'22? :8'/2/9656;2'8=./2+8',:/4- .589+8/*/4-'4*,2?,/9./4- 8+2/+*54,58+9:8?'4*.569 '8+'2956599/(2+/4:.+6'81 -85=45493'22,'839)'22+* $.+9+ '295 Parque Nacional Lago 685*;)++>)+22+4:58-'4/) Puelo .54+?'4*95,:,8;/:9'4*)'4 Oficina de Informes, (02944) (+
/::2+ ';-+9:+'3:8'/49'8+ 25)':+*/89:(;/2:/4:.++'82? 9'4*9:/2256+8'(2+:5*'? :.+9+=5819.569)'4(+
:5:8'49658:25)'2=552 '4*:/3(+8685*;):/54295 54:.+9:':/54-85;4*9/9 Museo Ferroviario'93'22 3;9+;3*+*/)':+*:5:.+ :5=498'/285'*.+8/:'-+ ' $85)./:'*+6'8:9,853 2'/:C49/>:/3+9'=++1 /49;33+8 Museo Ferroviario Estación El Maitén. Tel (02945) 495190. Dec−Mar: 8am−8pm daily; Apr−Nov: 9am−5pm daily. on request.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp283–6 and pp301–2

La Trochita steam train halted at El Maitén station

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Road Map B4. 25 miles (40 km) S of El Maitén. Tel (02945) 455-151. Thu–Tue. May, Jun, & Sep

8;9:/)+9:'4)/')54<+8:+* /4:5'3;9+;3;9+5 +2+7;+.52*9' 9:854- )522+):/545,'8:/,'):94'88':/4- !':'-54/'9./9:58?/962'?9 '8+*/./( /:9/9')54:8'):,58:.+')7;/ 9/:/545,.589+99/-4+*(? #'4:/'-5 "?'4'69+;*54?3 ;9+*(?5;:2'=;:).'99/*?

A partially woven Tehuelche rug exhibit at Museo Leleque

Road Map B4. 112 miles (180 km) S of El Bolsón. 35,000. Ave Alvear & Sarmiento, (029) 4545-1927. La Fiesta del Esquí (Sep). www.esquel.gov.ar

%/:./:9(+';:/,;2<'22+? 9+::/4-'4*945=)'66+* 4*+'4(')1*85697;+2/9' =+2)53+).'4-+,853:.+ 9;885;4*/4-'8/*9:+66+ 2'/*(')1:5=4=/:.'.'4*,;2 5,:5;8/9:9/:+9/:/9:.+/*+'2 ('9+,853=./).:5

BUTCH CASSIDY AND THE SUNDANCE KID 4 :.+## 9+: 9'/2,853+= &581,588-+4:/4' 4(5'8*=+8+'3+9"?'4'4* '88?!2')+B(+::+8145=4'9 ;:).'99/*?'4*:.+#;4*'4)+ /*B3+8/)'9359:45:58/5;9 ('4185((+89'4*3+3(+895, :.+,+'8+*%/2*;4).2++/4-:.+ 2'=:.+:=53+8/)'49:5-+:.+8 =/:.#;4*'4)+9-/82,8/+4*::' !2')+.'**+)/*+*:5.+'*:5 8+35:+!':'-54/'4:.+?+'89)'4(+
Road Map B4. 14 miles (24 km) S of Esquel. 10,000. Plaza, (02945) 480-091. www.trevelin.org

9.58:*8/<+,85397;+2/9 :.+%+29.
Road Map B4. 28 miles (45 km) W of Esquel. Villa Futalaufquen, Ruta Provincial 71; (02945) 471-015. daily.

5<+8/4- 973/2+9 9713'4*)549/*+8+* :5(+:.+359:68/9:/4+5, 458:.+84!':'-54/'96'819 !'87;+')/54'2592+8)+9 ='9)8+':+*:5685:+)::.+ :8++'(+';:/,;2 :5=+8/4-96+)/+9:.':)'4 +>)++* ,:3/4.+/-.: '4*2/<+,58 ?+'89 $.5;-.4;3+85;9./1/4- :8'/29)8/99)8599:.+6'81:.+ 542?='?:5'))+99/:9 =55*9/9);89/54:.'::8'<+89+9 3'0+9:/)2'1+'4*-2')/+8 9)+4+8? $.++>);89/549 ./-.2/-.:/9/:9+4*65/4::.+ 9:8/1/4-/22+44/;3:8++'

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A beautiful lake located in Parque Nacional Los Alerces

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(3:6796+<*,6;/,9 /0./8<(30;@1(4:(5+308<,<9: (403@9<5Chacra Don Neno (;;/,*,5;,96-;6>50:(465. ;/,),:;6-;/,:,-(94:#/, ;6>5:6;/,9/0./30./;0:(.6 <,56:09,:;/,:,*65+ )0..,:;-9,:/>(;,93(2,05 "6<;/4,90*(65;/,)69+,9 ),;>,,59.,5;05((5+/03, ;:790:;05,;96<;(5+:(3465 90*/>(;,9:(;;9(*;(5.3,9: One of the quiet streets running through Perito Moreno

Road Map B5. 334 miles (538km) S of Esquel. 4,500. Ave San Martín & Gendarmería Nacional, (02963) 432-732. Festival Cueva de las Manos (Feb).

(9;D5>/0*/0:0+,(3-69 ,=,505.>(32:#/,(=,5<,0: .0=,5+(:/,:6-*6369)@;/, 7630;0*(33@46;0=(;,+.9(--0;0

Road Map B5. 16 miles (25 km) S of Perito Moreno. Tel (02963) 432079, (011) 4325-3098 (reservations). Oct−Apr.

5(<;/,5;0*:/,,79,(905. -(94:;(5*0( #,32,5/(: ),,505;/,/(5+:6-;/, (4,+-69;/,9.,5;050(5 Road Map B5. 35 miles (56km) W of Perito Moreno. 4,000. :(4,3(5+6>505.-(403@ 5(;<9(30:;(5+,?7369,9 9(5*0:*669,56(5+56;;6 Ave 9 de Julio 446, (02963) 491- 6-"*6;;0:/+,:*,5;:05*, 261. Fiesta Nacional de la Cereza #/,,:;(5*0(::79(>305. ),*65-<:,+>0;/3(*0(9 (Jan). www.losantiguos.gov.ar ;9,,305,+.96<5+:*6=,9 ,90;669,56

69 :8403,: :824(5+ (98<,(*065(3 ,90;6 69,56

;/0:;6>5 &0;/0;:),50.540*96*304(;, :79,(+4(1,:;0*(33@(*96:: 0:(767<3(9:;676=,9-69 (5+0+@330*36*(;06565;/, ;/, (;(.650(5:;,77, :/69,6-Lago Buenos Aires ;/6:,;9(=,305.(365.!<;( ;6>(9+:;/,(.6<,56: 09,:73(;,(< ;/0:30;;3,;6>5+,90=,:0;: (*065(3 #/,46:;767< #9,2:(5+/69:,90+05.(9, 36<:;6>505;/0:(9,(6-;/, 5(4,-964;/,#,/<,3*/, (99(5.,+(;;/,,:;(5*0(#/, "(5;(9

4,(505.B73(*, ;9(03:(96<5+;/,(9,(05*3<+, 0+,(3)(:,-964>/0*/;6 6-4@(5*,:;69:C ,?7369,;/,&693+,90;(., 6:5;0.<6:>(:)<03;65( :0./;::<*/(:4033,550(63+ "0;,6-Cueva de las Manos(: :0;,<:,+4033,550((.6)@;/, 96*2*(9=05.:>/03,-69;/, >,33(: (98<,(*065(3 ,90;6 #,/<,3*/,(:(73(*,6-9,;09, 5(;<9,,5;/<:0(:;:.<(5(*6 69,56;6;/,:6<;/6:; 4,5; #/,(9*/(,636.0*(390*/ 3,::,99/,((5+5<4,96<: >033-05+;/0:;6>5(:79(>305. 5,::6-;/,(9,(0::<*/;/(; :7,*0,:6-)09+:*(5), (5+:64,>/(;565+,:*907; (5*0,5;)<90(346<5+:(9,:;033 6):,9=,+ ;(3:6796=0+,:(5 :,;;3,4,5;>/,9,30;;3,.6,: ),05.+0:*6=,9,+#/,;6>50: ,?*,33,5;)(:,-964>/0*/;6 ,?7369,<,=(+,3(:(56: 650-,9,=63=,:(96<5+;/, 56>256>5(:9.,5;05(: (5+(.6<,56:09,: 4(05(=,5<,=,50+("(5 */,99@*(70;(3(3;/6<./0;:

A view of the majestic Andes across a sparkling river and a shelter belt of poplar trees, Los Antiguos For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp283–6 and pp301–2

#

The ancient stencilled handprints at Cueva de las Manos

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

)6;/6->/0*/(9, *65=,50,5;3@36*(;,+5,(9)@

-964>(;,9;6:(30=((5+,=,5 <905, 5*,05308<0+-694 ;/,7(05;>6<3+),:7(;6<; 6=,9;/,/(5+65;/,>(33 Road Map B5. Ruta Provincial 97, #/,/<5;,9:05;04(;, 100 miles (161 km) S of Perito 9,3(;065:/07>0;/5(;<9,0: Moreno. 9am−7pm daily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’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n empty, lonely stretch along Ruta Nacional 40 405,9(370.4,5;:-6<5+(;;/, :0;,*64)05,+>0;/(5@;/05.

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&((4224)&9.43.3&3) &74:3)9-*5&70&7*89&3(.& & 7.*39&1&3)89&3(.& *3*1.0

Road Map B5. 122 miles (197 km) S of Perito Moreno. 250.

++&9&,43.&8247*'*&9*3 97&(0':9'*&:9.+:11>8.9:&9*) The only hotel in the village, Hotel Bajo Caracoles .5D1.94 %7.,4>*3.8&82&11 8*991*2*39439-*8-47*4+ &19.9:)*4++9 2 Lago Posadas&99-*+449 &3)-&;*&89-*.7'&(0)745 4+9-*84:9-*733)*89.8 Road Map B5. 80 miles (130 km) S 9-*834<>5*&084+9-*'*&:9. 89.11:8:&11>034<3'>.9841) of Perito Moreno. 100. 3&2*48&)&89&0*3+742 +:13)*&3(47).11*7& 9-*1&0**451*<-4;.8.99-* "-*455479:3.9.*8+47 4724947.898)7.;.3,84:9- 3&9:7*85499.3,&7*;&7.*)&3) 94<3)484+479-7**2&.3 43 :9& &(.43&1 +742 7*&8438A+.8-.3,-.0.3,&3) 2&3>$*112&70*)97&.18 24:39&.3(1.2'.3,"-*1&0* *7.9447*34&/4&7&(41*8 (7488'7*&9-9&0.3,8(*3*7> .8&545:1&78549&243, .89-*+.78989454;*754.39 9-&9+*&9:7*8*.,-9'*&:9.+:1 &3,1*78&3)9-*(&9(-.3(1:)*8 !:774:3)*)'>9-*;&89 1&0*8 1*,&39+.3*'43*) ,:&3&(4&'4:3)&143,9-*.7 82*195*7(-&3)8&1243 &9&,43.&389*55*.9.8& 8-47*8&3)842* '.7) 7*249*8*991*2*394+&'4:9 Environs +&2.1.*8"-*94<3-&89-* 85*(.*8&7*+4:3).39-*5&70 431>,&889&9.43439-* 74:3) 2.1*80284:9- #.8.94788-4:1)*=5*(9 3&9.43&1-.,-<&>'*9<**3 *=97*2*<*&9-*7(43).9.438 4+.5D1.94%7.,4>*3.89-* *7.9447*34&3)"7*8 Cerro de Los Indios&7(-&*4 3<.39*79*25*7&9:7*8)745 &,48 &897*9(-4+4;*7 14,.(&18.9*<.9->*&7 94&(-.11.3,

@ @ 2.1*8 02"-*;.11&,*.8 &3).9(&3834<*;*3.3 41)74(05&.39.3,8"-*&7*&8 8:22*7"-*'*899.2*894 -42*94&82&11-49*19-&9 89&7&997&(9.43.8Cerro San ;.8.9&7*.39-*84:9-*73 Lorenzo9

+9 (439&.38.98841*7*89&:7&39 -*2.85-*7*81&9*857.3, &3)5-43*'449- 2.9.843*4+9-*-.,-*89 &3)*&71>&:9:23:=:7> 5*&08.384:9-*73&9&,43.&

Road Map B5. 102 miles (165 km) SW of Bajo Caracoles. Ave San Martín 882, Gobernador Gregores; (02962) 491-477.

:*94.987*249*14(&9.43 &3)*=97*2*(1.2&(9.((43). 9.438&76:*&(.43&1*7.94 47*347*2&.38&9&,43.&8 <.1)*89&3)'*8957*8*7;*) 3&9.43&15&70#.8.9478&'1*94 97&;*78*.98'47)*78<.11+.3) 1&3)8(&5*84+57.89.3*'*&:9> &':3)&39.3<.1)1.+* 4;*7.3, 862.1*8 86029-*5&70 *3(425&88*89<48*5&7&9* *(414,.(&17*,.438"-* &9&,43.&389*55*(4;*78.98 *&89*738*(9.43+472.3,&3 *1*;&9*)51&.34+8(7:'&3) ,7&881&3)&9 +92 &'4;*8*&1*;*139-*5&708 <*89*738*(9.439-.88(7:'.8 7*51&(*)'>9-.(08<&9-*84+

+47*89<-.(-7.8*94&3

Breathtaking view of Lago Posadas with the Andes in the distance

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp283–6 and pp301–2

"

A herd of guanaco wandering on the vast Patagonian steppe near Tres Lagos

Road Map B5. 218 miles (352km) S of Perito Moreno. 3,500. Ave San Martín & Ruperto Barrenchea, (02962) 491-192.

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

2.1*8 02

Road Map B5. 43 miles (70 km) W of Gobernador Gregores. Ave San Martín & Ruperto Barrenchea, Gobernador Gregores; (02962) 491-192.

Road Map B6. 108 miles (174km) S of Gobernador Gregores. 200.

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Flamingos over the turquoise waters of Lago Cardiel

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Road Map B5. 138 miles (222 km) N of Tres Lagos. 500. from El Chaltén. Ave Güemes 21, El Chaltén; (02962) 493-270.

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Hikers on their way to Mount Fitz Roy, El Chaltén

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Road Map A5. 23 miles (37 km) N of El Chaltén. Dec–Mar daily. (02962) 493–011.

View of Río de las Vueltas making its way through forests For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp283–6 and pp301–2

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S of El Calafate. from El Calafate, Río Gallegos. Plazoleta Augustín del Castillo, (02902) 421-950.

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Road Map B6. 137 miles (220 km) S of El Chaltén. 17,000. from El Chaltén. Terminal de Omnibus, Ave Julio A Roca 1004; (02902) 491-090. Fiesta de Bautismo del Lago Argentino. www.turismo.elcalafate.gov.ar

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Road Map A6. 50 miles (80 km) W of El Calafate. El Calafate. from El Calafate, El Chaltén. El Calafate Ave del Libertador 1302, (02902) 491005; El Chaltén Ruta Provincial 23, (02962) 493-004. www.losglaciares. com. Fitz Roy Expediciones El Chaltén, (02962) 493-017. Serac Ski and Andinismo El Chaltén, (02962) 493-066.

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Centro de Visitantes Guardaparque Pedro Fonzo Ave San Martín. Tel (02962) 493004. Dec–Mar: 9am-6pm daily; Mar–Dec: 9am–4pm Mon–Fri.

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#.+95;:.+849+):585, '87;+')/54'2592')/'8+9 /9).'8'):+8/@+*(?:.+3'-4/,/)+4:-2')/+89:.':96/22 *5=4='8*,853:.+"5;:.+84 ':'-54/'4)+/+2*:.+ -8+':,85@+462':+';5,/)+:.':9/:9':56:.+95;:.+84 4*+9#.+9+-2')/+89'8+8+34'4:95,:.+)+-+=.+4 :.+?9:8+:).+*,'8(+?54*:.+/8);88+4:(5;4*'8/+9 8+')./4-:.+ ':'-54/'49:+66+'4*-5;-/4-*++6$ 9.'6+*<'22+?9'9:.+?'*<'4)+*4:.+-2')/+89 8+:8+':'::.++4*5,:.+ 2+/9:5)+4++8' ?+'89 '-5:.+9+.;-+:85;-.9=+8+,/22+*=/:.3+2:=':+8 ,583/4-:.+8+-/549-8+':2'1+9 Glaciar Perito Moreno 53 miles (85 km) W of El Calafate. from El Calafate. from Península Magellanes. Ave Libertador 1302, (02902) 491-005.

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Lago Roca 34 miles (55 km) SW of El Calafate. from El Calafate. Estancia Nibepo Aike www.nibepoaike. com.ar

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from Río Grande or El Calafate. (55.30:/ Avenida San Martín 674, (02901) =,::,3:/07>9,*2,+6--;/, 424-550. Festival Música Clásica *6(:;05 ;/,3(;;,9;9(*,: de Ushuaia (Apr). www.e-ushuaia. ;/,/0:;69@6-;/,9,.065: com 05+0.,56<:7,673, 0./()6=,%:/<(0(;/, #0;<(;,+(;;/,)6;;64;076- ),(<;0-<3Glaciar Martial6--,9: :3(9(5+,%:/<(0(0:),:; 7(569(40*=0,>:6-;/,*0;@ 9,(*/,+)@(096405.05;6 (5+(5(3,(.3,$69,(*/0; 3(5+6=,9;/,0*@7,(2:6- ;(2,;/,*/(0930-;-964Centro ,996(9;0(3(5+65;, Recreativo Glaciar Martial 30=0((5+;/,-90.0+>(;,9:6- ),-69,;9,2205.;/,-05(3 (5(3,(.3,653@/,0./;,5: :;9,;*/;60;:)(:, 65,::,5:,6-(990=(3(;;/, ,5+6-;/,>693+ Museo Marítimo de $/,*0;@),.(5(:(7,5(3 Ushuaia Yaganes & Gobernador Paz. *6365@05 7(9;6-(5 Tel (02901) 437-481. mid-Dec– 9.,5;050(5.6=,954,5;73(5 mid-Mar: 9am–8pm daily; mid-Mar– ;6767<3(;,;/,09/(3-6-;/, mid-Dec: 10am–8pm daily. (9*/07,3(.6(:(4,(5:6- mid-Dec–mid-Mar: 10am daily. 9,(--09405.:6=,9,0.5;@$/, www.museomaritimo. *6365@-6<5+,9,+)<;;/, com *65=0*;:9,4(05,+;9(5:-,99,+ Museo del Fin del Mundo ;6;/,05-(46<:%:/<(0( Avenida Maipú 175. Tel (02901) 790:65>/0*/-964 ;6 421-863. mid-Dec–mid-Mar: /6<:,+;/,*6<5;9@: 9am–8pm daily; mid-Mar–mid-Dec: 46:;56;6906<:*90405(3: noon–7pm Mon–Sat. in &0:0;69:*(5,?7369,;/,63+ Spanish only. 790:65(;;/,-(:*05(;05. Museo Yámana Museo Marítimo de Ushuaia Rivadavia 56. Tel (02901) 422-874. <0+,+;6<9:;(2,05;/,790: mid-Dec–mid-Mar: 10am–8pm 65:*9(47,+*,33:(5+ daily; mid-Mar–mid-Dec: noon–7pm 9,*6<5;;/,*904,:6-0;:46:; daily. 56;6906<:*65=0*;::,7(9(;, Centro Recreativo Glaciar :,*;0650:+,=6;,+;6%:/<(0(: Martial 4(90;04,/0:;69@>0;/+0:73(@: Avenida Luis Fernando Martial. *6=,905. @,(9:6-5(=0.( 10:30am–5:30pm daily. ;0653:6.66+(9,Museo del Note: no buses to the chairlift, best Fin del Mundo(5+Museo to hire a taxi and walk back down. Yámana;/,-694,9/6<:,:

Jagged peaks near Ushuaia, seen from across Canal Beagle

Road Map B6. Muelle Turístico, Ushuaia; (02901) 437-666.

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Road Map B6. Ruta Nacional 3, Km 26.5, 16 miles (26 km) E of Ushuaia. Tel (02901) 499-302. from Ushuaia. mid-June–mid Oct. www.cerrocastor. com

The former Government House, Ushuaia For hotels and restaurants in this region see p287 and p303

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Road Map B6. 53 miles (85 km) E of Ushuaia. Tel (02901) 422-742. mid-Oct–mid-Apr: 10am–7pm daily.

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Road Map B6. from Ushuaia. Ruta Nacional 3, Km 3047; Avenida San Martín 1395, Ushuaia, (02901) 421-315. 24 hours daily. Tren del Fin del Mundo station off Ruta Nacional 3, 5 miles (8 km) W of Ushuaia. Tel (02901) 431-600. www.trendelfindelmundo. com.ar

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Road Map B6. 137 miles (220 km) NE of Ushuaia. 80,000.

from Ushuaia or Río Gallegos. Rosales 350, (02964) 431-324. www.riogrande.gov.ar

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Fagnano Misión Salesiana, Ruta Nacional 3, Km 2800. Tel (02964) 421-642. mid-Dec–mid-Mar: 10am–7pm Tue–Sun; mid-Mar–mid-Dec: 9am– 12:30pm & 3–7pm Mon–Fri (8pm Sat–Sun). on request. www.misionrg.com.ar Museo de la Ciudad

Virginia Choquintel Alberdi 555. Tel (02964) 430-647. 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 3–7pm Sat. on request.

Cruise ship at anchor in Port Lockroy, Antarctic Peninsula

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PLANNING A CRUISE

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Brightly painted houses around Christ Church cathedral, Stanley

The Falkland Islands (Islas Malvinas) 310 miles (500 km) NE of Ushuaia. 2,913. weekly flights via Punta Arenas, Chile, and monthly via Río Gallegos. from Ushuaia. Jetty Visitor Center, (00500) 22215. www.visitorfalklands.com

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Key to Symbols see back flap

KEY Main road

Cruises (11–13 days) to the Antarctic Peninsula always include the South Shetland Islands. Longer trips (18–20 days) include South Georgia and the Falkland Islands. Ship types vary, but all are icestrengthened. Remote Weddell Sea and Ross Sea areas are accessed by icebreaker ships. Best time to travel is in summer from November to March: days are longer and warmer, and the wildlife more abundant. See also pp312–13.

Track

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p287 and p303

Falkland Islands Museum Holdfast Road, Stanley. Tel (00500) 27428. 9:30am–4pm Mon–Fri, 2–4pm Sat–Sun.

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A blue-colored pinnacle iceberg near Coronation Island, South Orkneys

South Georgia 860 miles (1,385 km) E of the Falkland Islands. www.sgisland.org South Georgia Museum http://sgmuseum.gs

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574 miles (924 km) SW of South Georgia.

Macaroni penguins congregating on the shoreline, South Georgia

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Port Lockroy-5,20)62

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KEY Main cruise routes

P

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King George Island-5,20)62 ()/-)%1(+)16223)1+7-1'2/21-)5 %1(-659%6)45%4)%*))(-1+%4)% *24,703&%'.9,%/)5

E SOUTH SHET LAND ISLANDS

The Antarctic Sound-5.1291%5=')&)4+

Deception Island

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To the South Orkney Islands and South Georgia

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THE ENDURANCE EXPEDITION 1%17%4; 4-6-5,):3/24)441)56,%'./)6215 5,-3$+($9%5571.&;%1-')*/2)-16,) #)(()//)%-8)0216,52*/-8-1+213%'.-') *2//29)(&)*24)6,)'4)9 0%()*24/)3,%165/%1(-1 23)1/-*)&2%651%4+7%&/; 6,)+4)%6)56*)%62*32/%4 ):3/24%6-21,%'./)621%1( *-8)26,)456,)1)0&%4.)(21 %1 0-/) .0 82;%+)&;/-*)&2%6624)%', 6,)9,%/-1+56%6-2121276, )24+-%%1(-1+21%171 -1,%&-6)(5-()2*6,)-5/%1( 6,);,-.)( ,274528)4 02716%-15+/%'-)45%1('/-**5 &)*24)4)%',-1+6,)-4+2%/ ,4))*%-/)(4)5'7)%66)0365 *2//29)(&)*24),%'./)621 *-1%//;4)%',)(,-51)%4 The Endurance trapped in 56%48-1+0)121/)3,%16 ice before sinking 5/%1(-17+756

TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY 270287 WHERE TO EAT 288303 SHOPPING IN ARGENTINA 304307 ENTERTAINMENT IN ARGENTINA 308309 OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES AND SPECIALIZED HOLIDAYS 310315

# ! % ! " "

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PRICING AND BOOKING 90*05.+,7,5+:.9,(;3@65 36*(;065C/6;,39(;,:05 <,56: 09,:(5+767<3(9 ;6<90:;+,:;05(;065::<*/(:

The stylish tango-themed Mansión Dandi Royal, San Telmo (see p275)

Vibrantly colored store exterior in the La Boca barrio, Buenos Aires

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CHAIN HOTELS

36>,9+6>5;/,:*(3,65, ;6;/9,,:;(9 6-;,5 6<;08<,/6;,3:(9,),*6405. 796=0+,4<*/469,>,3 05*9,(:05.3@*6446505 *6405.*64-69;()3,(3;,9 5(;0=,:;6,8<0=(3,5;3@ +,:0.5*65:*06<: 9.,5;05( <,56: 09,:3,(+:;/0:;9,5+ 790*,+/6;,3: ,:7,*0(33@0;:-(:/065()3, (3,946%0,16+0:;90*;>/,9, 5<4,96<:)6<;08<,,:;()30:/ 4,5;:/(=,67,5,+:05*, 46:;3@05*65=,9;,+ ),33,E768<,/6<:,:#/,:, 05*3<+,;/,36=,3@ (3()0(6<:, 66 (5+Krista Hotel 0:;690*(3 "(5 #,34605;/, *0;@::6<;//(:-6336>,+:<0; */60*,:/,9,05*3<+,( 9664;(5.6;/,4,+ 9,56=(;,+4(5:065(5:0G5 (5+0 !6@(3 6<;08<,/6;,3:*(556> (3:6),-6<5+05:,=,9(3 +,:;05(;065:(*96::9.,5;05( Double room at Che Lulu Trendy 05*3<+05.4(169;6<90:;*,5;,9: Hotel, Palermo (see p277) :<*/(:"(3;(,5+6A((5+ BUDGET (;(.650(: (2, 0:;90*; >/,9,0556=(;0=,+,:0.5 ACCOMMODATION *65*,7;:6-;,5-0;:,(43,::3@ 5,(5+;>6:;(9/6;,3:(9, >0;/;/,09:<996<5+05.: <:<(33@*,5;9(33@36*(;,+ B/(05D)6<;08<,/6;,3: /(=,(3:6,5;,9,+;/,4(92,; >0;/05;6>5:(5+*0;0,:6:; #/, Esplendor*/(059<5)@ 05*3<+,)9,(2-(:;05;/,099(;, 9.,5;05(:,596<7/(: (5+(**,::0:,0;/,9;6( ,?*3<:0=,)6<;08<,/6;,3:05 :/(9,+)(;/9664 <,56: 09,:(5+3(3(-(;, 69 790=(;, (5+0:(465.;/,46:; )(;/9664(5@/(=,9664: <7:*(3,05;/,*6<5;9@ >0;/*,0305.-(5:(5+*()3, #%,+305,50:796=0+,+)<; HOSTERÍAS .<,:;:4(@/(=,;6<:,;/,09 6>5;6>,3: (9,:64,;04,: (5+ 256>5(: (5+<:< (3:6796=0+,*/,(7(**6446 (33@/6<:,),;>,,5;/9,,(5+ +(;065 #/,-694,90:(3(9., -(403@/64,>0;/(-,>,?;9(

9664:!6649(;,:=(9@ +,7,5+05.65;/,+,.9,,6- ),+9664:;6:7(9,>/03,;/, *64-69;(5+:;@3,796=0+,+ 3(;;,90:(3:6(-(403@/6<:, 6--,905.:/69;;,94:;(@: ;;/,;67,5++,3,,5=0:0;69:(5+ <9@(5+*/(9.,(**69+05.3@ 7,94(5,5;36+.,9:

#/,9,(9,=(906<:9.,5;050(5 */(05/6;,3:(;;/,40+(5+ <77,99(5.,:6-;/,4(92,; (:>,33(:;/,<:<(3)0. 05;,95(;065(35(4,:6*(3 67,9(;69 Dazzler Hoteles/(: :,=,9(3/6;,3:05;/,*(70;(3 (5+65,05(9036*/,Design Suites,47/(:0A05.:;@30:/ (5+*64;,4769(9@+,:0.5: /(:/6;,3:053(3(-(;,"(3;( (5+$:/<(0((:>,33(: <,56: 09,:(5+(9036*/, 5;,95(;065(3*/(05::<*/(: Starwood Hilton Hyatt(5+ Sofitel(9,(3:6>,339,79, :,5;,+05;/,*6<5;9@

The Hostería Ave Maria at Tandil in the Pampas region

BOUTIQUE HOTELS

The lobby of the luxurious Alvear Palace Hotel, Recoleta (see p275)

LUXURY HOTELS !(5.05.-964;/,7(3(;0(3(5+ 9,.(3;6;/,*/0*(5+76:; 46+,959.,5;05(:3/,9,05;/,>693+ ,:0+,:7904,36*(;065:;/,@ 6--,9:7(*06<:),(<;0-<33@ -<950:/,+:<0;,:(5+9664: -09:;9(;,:,9=0*,:(5+(>0+, 9(5.,6-(4,50;0,:#/,:, <:<(33@05*3<+,:;(;,6-;/, (9;*65-,9,5*,-(*030;0,::7(: :>04405.7663:46+,95 -0;5,::*,5;,9::7(*06<:>,33 4(05;(05,+.(9+,5:)6<;08<, :/67:(5+,?*,33,5;4<3;0 *<0:05,9,:;(<9(5;: ,7,5+05.6536*(;065 3,3305(+=(5*, ,:7,*0(33@+<905.9.,5;05(: 7,(2:,(:65

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

The spa at Cavas Wine Lodge, Mendoza (see p282)

#0;'56#0%+#5*#8'1((+%'5+0 7'015 +4'59*'4'0).+5* 52'#-+0)56#((6#-'$11-+0)5 #0;'437'4+'5*' Estancias de Santa Cruz *#0&.'54'5'48#6+105#0& '037+4+'510$'*#.(1(/#0; 4#0%*'5+06*'#6#)10+##0& +'44#&'.7')14')+105Red

BODEGAS

#6'4+0)616*'.7:74;64#8'. /#4-'65'8'4#. 9+0'4+'5+04)'06+0#5 9+0')419+0)4')+1051(('4 ':%.75+8'.1&)+0)156#4' .1%#6'&+0'0&1<##.6*17)* 51/' +0#.6##.51 Argentina de Turismo Rural ('#674'9+0'.1&)'5..$1#56 914-59+6*'56#0%+#5+06*' ':64#14&+0#4;5'66+0)5#0& 7'015 +4'52418+0%'6*' 56700+0)/1706#+08+'95#0& 1(('4+05+)*65+0616*'914.& 0&'#0 146*9'56#0& 1(8+6+%7.674' 4)'06+0+#0'51216#/+# Estancias Argentinas#.51 7'565%#06#-'2#46+0 4'24'5'065'56#0%+#5+06*' /#0;#%6+8+6+'5(41/9+0' 7'015 +4'52418+0%'#0& 6#56+0)5#0&8+0';#4&8+5+6561 *#5#('9#((+.+#6'5+0>4&1$# 6*'#007#.*#48'56)419+0) #0& 4)'06+0+#0'51216#/+# 64'0&+56*'+0%14214#6+101( 2'%+#.+5664#8'.#)'0%+'5%#0 #9+0'52#9*'4'64'#6/'065 #.5114)#0+<''56#0%+#56#;5 #4'$#5'&10)4#2'5#0& Lan & Kramer Travel Services 16*'49+0'241&7%65 +510'1(6*'/1564'276#$.' .6'40#6+8'.;8+5+6145%#0#.51 SELF-CATERING AND %106#%66*'4#0%*'5&+4'%6.; CABIN COMPLEXES

Living room at Estancia La Bamba in San Antonio de Areco (see p145)

*'4'#4'5'8'4#.126+105(14 5'.(%#6'4+0)#%%1//1+10 156%+6+'5*#8'#2#46*16'.5 9*+%**#8'56#0&*16'. ('#674'5$76#.51.#4)'4411/5 9+6*#-+6%*'0'66'#0&5/#.. '#6+0)#4'#06*'5176*1( 4)'06+0#!%#$+0 %1/2.':'5#4'':64'/'.; %1//10'52'%+#..;+06*' #6#)10+#0 #-' +564+%6*' %#$+056;2+%#..;%105+561(# /#56'4$'&411/-+6%*'0 .170)'#0&52#4'$'&411/5 156#4'&'5+)0'&+06*'56;.' 1( .2+0'.1)%#$+05+&;..+ %#..;5+67#6'&9+6*+05*#&'& 911&514104+8'4$#0-5#0& 9'..'37+22'&9+6*2*10' #0&%#$.'6'.'8+5+10*' %#$+0%1/2.':'5#4'+&'#. (14(#/+.+'5#0�10' 9+5*+0)61#81+&/14' 010&'5%4+26$76'37+8#.'06.; 24+%'&6*4''56#4*16'.5

! "

RENTED APARTMENTS 14.10)'456#;5+07'015 +4'55'8'4#.#)'0%+'552'%+#. +<'+05*146#0&.10)6'4/ 4'06'#46/'065(14(14'+)0 8+5+6145*'5'#2#46/'065#4' (7..;(740+5*'&9+6*/1&'40 #22.+#0%'5'065#4'4'.#6+8'.; *+)*1(6'06*4''6+/'56*#61( #070(740+5*'#46/'06 $76'#5+.;(#%+.+6#6'�&9+6* 010'1(6*'4'&6#2'6*#6 1(6'024'%.7&'54'06+0)6*' .#66'4Buenos Aires Travel Campsite in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, Patagonia (see pp250–55) Rent#0&Buenos Aires Stay #4'6919'..'56#$.+5*'& 6*'#224124+#6'5;/$1.+0 4'06#.#)'0%+'59+6*18'4 '37+22'' 6*'*16'.5.+56+0)5

#2#46/'065611(('4 757#..;.1%#6'& 0/#0;%#5'5*19'8'4 0'#42#4-'064#0%'5*'5' YOUTH HOSTELS *16'.59+6*17652'%+#.(#%+ *#8'*165*19'45%11-+0) .+6+'59+..&1#..6*';%#061 (#%+.+6+'5.#70&4;5'48+%'5 4)'06+0#+55'48'&$;#0 #%%1//1'2'12.'+0 #0&5722.;5614'5 ':6'05+8'0'6914-1(;176* 9*''.%*#+45$;)+8+0)6*'/ .1%#6'&&''2'4 *156'.557%*#5Che Lagarto '#5+.;#%%'55+$.')4170&(.114 9+6*+06*'2#4-5#4'.+/+6'& 156%+6+'5*#8'#6.'#5610' 411/59*'0#8#+.#$.'#0& 61%11-+0)(#%+.+6+'59#6'4 5722.+'5#0&61+.'65*' '56#$.+5*/'064'%1)0+<'&$; *'.29+6*56#+45#0&'06'4+0) $#5+% #4'(14 156'..+0)06'40#6+10#. #0&.'#8+0).+(65 9*'4'$16*411/5#0&5+0).' *+-'45':2.14+0)4'/16'#4'#5 5':&14/#%%1//1+105 ..6*4''#4'/#4-'&102#4- TIPPING /#25#0&10*+-+0)64#+.5 #4'#8#+.#$.'67&'0664#8'. +22+0)+04)'06+0#+5+0 #)'0%; Asatej+56*'4'24'

#4'$#5+%911&'0 5'06#6+8'1(+04)'06+0# 2412146+109+6*/15616*'4 %#$+055+67#6'&10/1706#+0 #0&/#-'5*156'.4'5'48#6+105 64#+.59+6*+00#6+10#.2#4-5 2#4651(6*'914.&16'. 6*417)*1766*'%17064; 2146'459*1*'.29+6*$#)5 #0'75'&$;64'--'4514 037+4+'5%#0$'/#&'#6 %.+/$'451018'40+)*6#5%'065 10#44+8#.#4'757#..;)+8'0 6174+56+0(14/#6+101((+%'5 # 6+21($'69''0 DISABLED TRAVELERS #0&149#+6+0) NATIONAL PARKS AND 56#((+0*16'.5+6+5%7561/#4; '9*16'.5+04)'06+0#*#8' 61.'#8'#$176 61 2'4 CAMPSITES %'061(6*'616#.8#.7'1(6*' 52'%+#.(#%+.+6+'5(14&+5#$.'& *'4'#4'6*4''6;2'51( $+..0%*'%-+0)176+6+5# 64#8'.'45*15'6*#6&1#4' %#/25+6'59+6*+04)'06+0#5 )11&+&'#61.'#8'#5/#.. /156.;+06*'(+8'56#4%#6' 0#6+10#.2#4-5*'$'56 )14;#0'+0&+%#6'&9+6* 6+2(146*'%.'#0+0)*'.2

DIRECTORY CHAIN HOTELS

Starwood

Dazzler Hoteles

www.starwoodhotels. com

Tel (011) 5217-5700. www.fenhoteles.com

BOUTIQUE HOTELS

Design Suites

Esplendor

Tel (011) 5199-7465. www.designsuites.com

www.esplendorhoteles. com

Hilton

Krista Hotel

Tel (011) 4891-0000. www.hilton.com

Bonpland 1665, Palermo. City Map 4 C3. www.kristahotel.com.ar

Hyatt Tel (011) 5171-1234. www.hyatt.com

ESTANCIAS

Sofitel

Estancias Argentinas

Tel (011) 4131-0000. www.sofitel.com

Ave Diagonal Pte 616. Tel (011) 4343-2366.

Estancias de Santa Cruz Maipú 864 3°, Buenos Aires. Tel (011) 52374043 (reservations). www.estanciasdesanta cruz.com

Lan & Kramer Travel Services Florida 868 14°, Capital Federal, Buenos Aires. Tel (011) 4312-2355.

RENTED APARTMENTS Buenos Aires Stay Tel (011) 4803-5184. www.bastay.com

Buenos Aires Travel Rent www.buenosairestravelrent.com

YOUTH HOSTELS

Red Argentina de Turismo Rural

Asatej

Florida 460, Sede de la Sociedad Rural, Buenos Aires. Tel (011) 43280499. www.ratur estancias.com.ar

Che Lagarto

Tel (011) 4114-7611. www.asatej.com

Tel (011) 4343-4845. www.chelagarto.com

PRICE CATEGORIES The price ranges are for a standard double room per night, including taxes, service charges, and breakfast. under $50 $51–$100 $101–$150 $151–$200 over $200

%)"(!$) !(*! +$ %($%') !' ,""$)!"!)!($"%)!%$( "!()%+'('$ %&'!)%'!('%#*))%,"*(!+%##% )!%$(!(!)%'(#*()$%)) ) %)"')(+'-!$ )&'#!*#*'!$) ! )%*'!()((%$!$$*'- $ '*'- %'#&''$((&& .

BUENOS AIRES

PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO Gran Hotel Hispano Avenida de Mayo 861 Tel (011) 4345-2020 Fax (011) 4331-5266 Rooms 60

Map 3 E5

Stepping inside the old wood-and-glass door of the Gran Hispano takes visitors back to the way hotels were in the capital city 50 years ago. Service is personal and rooms are clean and comfortable. Visitors must ask for a room off the street if they want peace and quiet. www.hhispano.com.ar

PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO V&S Viamonte 887 Tel (011) 4322-0994 Fax (011) 4327-5131 Rooms 13

Map 3 E4

Brightly decorated rooms and all the services backpackers need – laundry, Internet, library, kitchen, communal terrace – make this a popular budget choice with young explorers. Accommodation options range from shared dorms to single and double rooms with en suite bathrooms. www.hostelclub.com

PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO 725 Buenos Aires

Ave Roque Saenz Peña 725 Tel (011) 4131-8000 Fax (011) 4131-8028 Rooms 192

Map 3 E5

Designed by Alejandro Bustillo, this French-influenced neoclassical building was recently revamped to appeal to the corporate traveler. It boasts a central location and high-speed Wi-Fi access throughout. The Centrino restaurant serves good Argentinian food and the breakfast buffet is excellent. www.725buenosaireshotel.com

PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO Broadway Hotel & Suites Avenida Corrientes 1173 Tel (011) 4378-9300 Fax (011) 4378-9259 Rooms 110

Map 3 D4

Located in the heart of the financial district, this hotel has comfortable rooms and spacious suites which have adopted American film icons as their theme. The suites have sitting rooms, kitchenettes, compact bedrooms, and baths with whirlpool tubs. Facilities include a gym, sauna, and meeting space. www.broadway-suites.com.ar

PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO Castelar Hotel & Spa Avenida de Mayo 1152 Tel (011) 4383-5000 Fax (011) 4383-8388 Rooms 151

Map 3 D5

A classic in the city’s political hub, the Castelar is a good-value, traditional, mid-range hotel with lovely views of the bustling Avenida de Mayo from many of its rooms. It has an excellent martini bar and an elegant Turkish spa, along with attentive staff. www.castelarhotel.com.ar

PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO Hostería Posta Corretas Esmeralda 726 Tel (011) 4322-8567 Fax (011) 4394-8372 Rooms 90

Map 3 D4

The hotel’s name alludes to the old wagon stops that once crisscrossed the country, and the rustic theme – wooden doors, fireplace, lodge-style decor – is rare and refreshing in this urban-obsessed city. The beamed-ceiling restaurant serves Argentinian and Continental dishes, and there is also a cozy bar. www.postacarretas.com.ar

PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO La Cayetana Historic House

Mexico 1330 Tel (011) 4383-2230 Rooms 11

Map 3 D5

In a setting of soulless high-rises, this hotel is a refuge from modern Buenos Aires. Set in a beautifully restored 1820s house, the hotel offers rooms that are all designed differently, with names such as federal, caudillo, and patriota, evoking the turbulent days of the civil wars in the 19th century. www.lacayetanahotel.com.ar

PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO Esplendor de Buenos Aires

San Martín 780 Tel (011) 5217-5710 Fax (011) 4526-8800 Rooms 49

Map 3 E4

Opened as the Phoenix Hotel in the 1900s, this hotel would have been one of the first sights that immigrants saw when getting off the boats at the end of the street. It is now much improved after extensive renovation. Rooms are stylishly designed, with abstract paintings and large, comfortable beds. www.esplendorbuenosaires.com

PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO Hilton Buenos Aires

Avenida Macacha Guemes 351, Dique 3 Tel (011) 4891-0000 Fax (011) 4891-0001 Rooms 417

Map 3 F5

Even when it is buzzing with corporate guests the huge glass and chrome lobby of the Hilton feels spacious. The amenities are deluxe, bedrooms are large, and the pool is possibly the best in town. An unbeatable location to explore Reserva Ecológica Costenera Sur and the Puerto Madero area (see p75). www.hilton.com Key to Symbols see back cover flap

PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO NH Jousten Avenida Corrientes 280 Tel (011) 4321-6750 Fax (011) 4321-6775 Rooms 84

Map 3 D4

The best boutique hotel in the downtown area, the Jousten combines cool, minimalist furnishings with attentive service and an excellent in-house Spanish restaurant. The buffet breakfast is huge, and while the clientele is mainly here on business, the place is casual enough for a drink or a social meeting. www.nh-hoteles.com

PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO Sofitel Buenos Aires

Arroyo 841 Tel (011) 4131-0000 Fax (011) 4131-0001 Rooms 144

Map 3 D3

Opened in 2003 in a landmark 1930s building, the Sofitel has grand and luxurious rooms. The bar off the main lounge is crammed with books and dark little corners for lounging. The French and Mediterranean restaurant, Le Sud, has won many followers around town. www.sofitelbuenosaires.com.ar

PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO Claridge Hotel

Tucumán 535 Tel (011) 4314-7700 Fax (011) 4314-8022 Rooms 152

Map 3 E4

The white portico, high-backed chairs, and mashed potatoes on the menu remind visitors that this is an outpost of Old England. The Claridge Hotel is still a place where foreigners as well as locals like to enjoy afternoon tea or an early gin. Rooms are bright and inviting. www.claridge.com.ar

PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO Dazzler Tower

San Martín 920 Tel (011) 5256-7700 Rooms 88

Map 3 E4

Coolly understated decor and helpful staff have made this hotel, opened in 2005, a popular choice with tourists as well as business visitors. Broadband access is available in all the bedrooms, and holistic massages are offered to help visitors relax after corporate meetings or sightseeing. www.dazzlertower.com

PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO Intercontinental

Moreno 809 Tel (011) 4340-7100 Fax (011) 4340-7199 Rooms 309

Map 3 D5

This 17-story tower has top-notch rooms with high-speed Internet access, minibars, safes, coffeemakers, desks, and king or double beds. Luxurious marble baths are fitted in the en suite bathrooms. Service here is another strength and the staff have good local knowledge. www.intercontinental.com

PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO Faena Hotel + Universe

Martha Salotti 445, Dique 2, Madero Este Tel (011) 4010-9000 Rooms 110

Map 1 F1

Rooms are simply yet tastefully furnished Art Deco-style, with mirror-paneled cupboards and velvety carpets. Faena offers access to a luxury spa, a small concert venue, an elegant bistro, and a lovely outdoor pool. The library lounge has a roaring fire going in the winter and live music in the evenings. www.faenahotelanduniverse.com

PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO Hotel Madero

Rosario Vera Peñalosa 360, Dique 2, Madero Este Tel (011) 5776-7777 Rooms 193

Map 1 E1

A newly opened property, Hotel Madero is chic and understated, with a spacious and serene terrace and a great cocktail bar. This is one of the city’s quietest corners, ideal for discerning business travelers or families looking for a relaxing stay. www.hotelmadero.com

PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO Panamericano

Carlos Pellegrini 551 Tel (011) 4348-5000 Fax (011) 4348-5250 Rooms 376

Map 3 D4

This twin-tower establishment has a gym, squash court, massage rooms, juice bar, beauty salon, and a 1,000-seater conference center. There is an English-style pub, a Japanese restaurant that offers good sushi and stunning views, and Tomo I (see p292), which serves excellent international cuisine. www.panamericanobuenosaires.com

PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO Sheraton Buenos Hotel

San Martín 1225 Tel (011) 4318-9000 Fax (011) 4322-9703 Rooms 742

Map 3 E3

Located in the heart of the city, the Sheraton is a luxury hotel with two pools, tennis courts, and a well-equipped gym. The guest rooms are spacious and tastefully decorated in relaxing pastel colors. The views of the city and Río de la Plata from the top floor are spectacular. www.sheraton.com

SAN TELMO AND LA BOCA Posada Historica Gotan

Sanchez de Loria 1618, Boedo Tel (011) 4912-3807 Rooms 9 A lovely tango-themed hotel, the Posada Historica Gotan is located on a street famed for its associations with the dance. All the rooms are clean and well decorated along contemporary lines, with views across a pretty shaded passageway to the hotel’s Italianate patio. www.posadagotan.com

SAN TELMO AND LA BOCA Cocker Hotel

Avenida Juan de Garay Tel (011) 4362-8451 Rooms 5

Map 1 E2

A beautifully converted San Telmo townhouse, this hotel is named after its owners’ pet spaniel. Elegantly decorated with antiques bought at local stores, the rooms are an ideal balance of old-school grandeur and new boutique style. This hotel is a popular choice with San Telmo’s gay tourist crowd. www.thecocker.com

SAN TELMO AND LA BOCA Mansión Dandi Royal Piedras 922 Tel (011) 4361-3537 Fax (011) 4307-7623 Rooms 30

Map 1 D1

Murals, paintings, and the soundtrack in the lobby are all in line with this self-styled “tango hotel.” It offers classes in the adjoining salon and special dance packages for tangophiles. In keeping with the golden age theme, rooms are lavishly appointed with elaborate bedspreads and grand wooden furniture. www.dandiroyal.com.ar

PLAZA SAN MARTĺN AND RETIRO Aspen Towers Paraguay 857 Tel (011) 4313-1919 Fax (011) 4313-2662 Rooms 75

Map 3 D4

After a major refurbishment in mid-2006, the services and guest rooms in this long-established hotel have vastly improved. Marble floors, cool sofas, and mirrored walls are the new look in the luxurious lobby. The in-house restaurant specializes in Japanese food and serves a superior breakfast. www.aspentowers.com.ar

PLAZA SAN MARTĺN AND RETIRO Lancaster Avenida Córdoba 405 Tel (011) 4311-3021 Fax (011) 4311-3021 Rooms 105

Map 3 E4

A 1940s hotel which boasts inviting public areas and friendly staff. The lobby lounge has velour sofas, a reading area, and an English-style wood-paneled drawing room. A pub-style restaurant offers traditional food while another in-house dining area, Catalina, serves tasty regional dishes. www.lancasterhotel-page.com.ar

PLAZA SAN MARTĺN AND RETIRO Milhouse Hipólito Yrigoyen 959 Tel (011) 4345-9604 Fax (011) 4343-5038

Map 3 D5

One of the liveliest, friendliest hostels in town, the Milhouse was constructed at the end of the 19th century using the best building materials from Europe. With a well-equipped laundry room, an in-bound travel agency, and inexpensive dorm rooms, this hotel is ideal for long-term visitors. www.milhousehostel.com

PLAZA SAN MARTĺN AND RETIRO Marriott Plaza

Florida 1005 Tel (011) 4318-3069 Fax (011) 4318-3000 Rooms 320

Map 3 E4

A stunning beaux-arts building on Plaza San Martín, this is one of the capital’s few grand old hotels. Built in 1909, the Plaza, as it is commonly known, has long been a favorite bedsit of presidents and celebrities. European antiques, leather chairs, and Francophile fittings are backed up with hi-tech amenities. www.marriottplaza.com.ar

RECOLETA Art Hotel Azcuenaga 1268 Tel (011) 4821-4744 Rooms 36

Map 2 B3

An art gallery, whose exhibits change every month, occupies the entire ground floor of this chic hotel. The rooms all have comfortable beds and the service is efficient and personalized. Although there is no restaurant, a wellstocked bar remains open every afternoon through to late evening. www.arthotel.com.ar

RECOLETA Design Suites & Towers

Marcelo T. de Alvear 1683 Tel (011) 4814-8700 Fax (011) 4814-8700 Rooms 58

Map 2 C3

The etched-glass doors of this hotel open onto a chrome lobby with glazed concrete floors and halogen lighting. Public areas and guest rooms are decked out with open closets, white walls, and the latest fixtures from France, Italy, and Tribeca. The room price includes a pass to one of the city’s finest health centers. www.designsuites.com

RECOLETA Park Châteaux Kempinski

Talcahuano 1253 Tel (011) 6777-0400 Fax (011) 6777-0430 Rooms 66

Map 3 D5

A highly desirable residence for anyone who wants to be around the Recoleta area, the Park Châteaux Kempinski is tasteful and an unusual blend of baroque and boutique. The service, dining, and guest rooms are faultless, although the public areas may be regarded by some as gaudy. www.kempinski.com

RECOLETA Melia Recoleta Plaza

Posadas 1557–59 Tel (011) 5353-4000 Fax (011) 4891-3812 Rooms 57

Map 3 D2

A stylish property in Recoleta, the Melia offers excellent personalized service. The guest rooms are well-appointed and attractive. Added-value services include Internet access in the rooms, public areas with speedy Wi-Fi, an excellent buffet breakfast, and access to the gym and spa. www.meliabuenosaires.solmelia.com

RECOLETA Alvear Palace Hotel

Avenida Alvear 1891 Tel (011) 4808-2100 Fax (011) 4804-0034 Rooms 210

Map 3 D2

Celebrating its 75th birthday in 2007, the Alvear Palace (see p99) is still regarded as the best hotel in Buenos Aires. The rooms are opulent and the suites are decorated with antique French furniture and original oil paintings. Food at the L’Orangerie breakfast room or in the French bistro, La Bourgogne, is top-notch. www.alvearpalace.com

RECOLETA Caesar Park

Posadas 1232 Tel (011) 4819-1100 Fax (0800) 0022-3727 Rooms 173

Map 3 D3

Slightly cheaper than upmarket competitors, this 18-story hotel located opposite the chic Patio Bullrich mall is ideal for both business and pleasure. Rooms are fitted with expensive pastel fabrics and the decor is subtle and traditional. The in-house Argentinian restaurant, Agraz, is one of the city’s best. www.caesar-park.com

RECOLETA Four Seasons Hotel Posadas 1086 Tel (011) 4321-1200 Fax (011) 4321-1201 Rooms 165

Map 3 D3

Opulent and exclusive, the Four Seasons draws rock stars and visiting actors. The lobby bar is well stocked with champagne, the outdoor pool is Roma-themed, the spa is decorated with Inca motifs, and the in-house restaurant, Galani, serves some of the best Italian food in town. www.fourseasons.com

RECOLETA Loi Suites Vicente Lopez 1955 Tel (011) 5777-8950 Fax (011) 5777-8999 Rooms 112

Map 2 C3

A sophisticated hotel with rooms offering views of the Recoleta cemetery (see pp100–1). The low-ceilinged lobby has recessed lighting, potted plants, and subtle marble and floral accents. Rooms are crisply contemporary, with gray or buff carpeting, ebony appointments, and sleek Japanese-inspired platform beds. www.loisuites.com.ar Key to Price Guide see p274 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

RECOLETA Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt Avenida Alvear 1661 Tel (011) 5171-1234 Fax (011) 5171-1235 Rooms 165

Map 3 D3

The newest luxury hotel in Buenos Aires, the Palacio Duhau opened in 2006. Interiors in the public areas are fresh and modern, the spa and gym are among the best in town, and the rooms have high ceilings and polished hardwood floors. An extensive art collection is used to decorate the long corridors. www.hyatt.com

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Che Lulu Trendy Hotel Pasaje Emilio Zola 5185 Tel (011) 4772-0289 Rooms 8

Map 5 D4

Plants and paintings by local artists make this guest house a bright, fun place and its location is both tranquil and ideal for accessing tourist sites in Palermo. Guests can meet in the dining area and relax watching television after a long day of sightseeing. www.luluguesthouse.com

PALERMO AND BELGRANO 1555 Malabia House Malabia 1555 Tel (011) 4833-2410 Fax (011) 4832-3345 Rooms 15

Map 4 C4

Owned by an interior designer, this former convent has been turned into a stylish boutique hotel. All rooms have queen-size beds and guests have access to small courtyard gardens illuminated by natural light. Note that there is no restaurant, although great eating options are available at nearby Palermo Viejo. www.malabiahouse.com.ar

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Posada Palermo Salguero 1655 Tel (011) 4826-8792 Rooms 4

Map 5 E4

Set in a casa chorizo, a sausage-shaped house that is Buenos Aires’s only original architectural style (see pp34–5), Posada Palermo has warmly decorated rooms done up in rustic orange, red, and purple. All have en suite bathrooms with Wi-Fi access. The common areas are scattered with sofas and bric-a-brac. www.posadapalermo.com.ar

PALERMO AND BELGRANO 248 Finisterra Baez 248 Tel (011) 4773-0901 Rooms 11

Map 4 C2

Located in the heart of fashionable Las Cañitas, this stylish boutique hotel is a converted two-story family home built in the 1950s. It has communal areas soaked in natural light, ideal for enjoying a glass of wine or champagne. Decorated in warm pastel colors, guest rooms are simple without being minimalist. www.248finisterra.com

PALERMO AND BELGRANO 5 Cool Rooms Honduras 4742 Tel (011) 5235-5555 Rooms 17

Map 5 D4

Bare pine floors, stainless steel furnishings, and gravel and bamboo give this minimalist hotel a quiet, Zen-like quality. Three of the rooms have balconies, and all guests have access to 24-hour Wi-Fi. The place has a serene atmosphere and the staff are warm and friendly. www.fivebuenosaires.com

PALERMO AND BELGRANO BoBo Guatemala 4882 Tel (011) 4774-0505 Rooms 7

Map 5 D4

A sophisticated hotel aiming at the young urban traveler, BoBo is very much a part of the hip Palermo bar and dining scene. Each of its rooms are designed with a theme in mind: pop, classic, techno, minimalist, rationalistic, Art Deco, and traditional Argentinian. www.bobohotel.com

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Home Hotel Buenos Aires

Honduras 5860 Tel (011) 4778-1008 Fax (011) 4779-1006 Rooms 17

Map 4 C3

Since opening in 2005, this boutique property has won a number of accolades in designer magazines and become a favorite with both local celebrities and visiting rock stars. All the rooms overlook either the garden, the tree-lined street, or the interior patio. www.homebuenosaires.com

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Soho All Suites Honduras 4762 Tel (011) 4832-3000 Fax (011) 4832-3000 Rooms 21

Map 5 D4

The accent here is on tasteful boutique and the comfortable suites are painted in a combination of calming pastels and dramatic reds. Along with the well-trained and friendly staff come a range of first-class services such as laptop and mobile phone rental. The hotel’s location is excellent for exploring Palermo. www.sohoallsuites.com

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Costa Petit Hotel Costa Rica 5141 Tel (011) 4776-8296 Fax (011) 4776-8294 Rooms 4

Map 4 C4

Opened in 2006, the Costa attempts to recreate the luxurious atmosphere of an old-fashioned family house. It has a tasteful array of bookcases, lush sofas, and handmade furniture. Guest rooms boast circular wall mirrors, large beds, marble baths, and balconies looking out onto the attractive courtyard. www.costapetithotel.com

FARTHER AFIELD Casona la Ruchi

Lavalle 557, Tigre Tel (011) 4749-2499 Rooms 5 An 1891 mock-Tudor mansion built right by the river, Casona la Ruchi offers traditional and comfortable rooms, although visitors have to share the bathrooms. Staying here is rather like living in an old country estancia with rustic Argentinian furnishings – wrought-iron beds and big wooden chairs. www.casonalaruchi.com.ar

FARTHER AFIELD Plaza Mayor Calle del Comercio 111, Colonia, Uruguay Tel (0598) 5225-527

Rooms 15

Located a boat trip across Río de la Plata in Uruguay, the friendly Plaza Mayor is set in a cozy, colonial-style stone mansion. The rooms are all clean and comfortable and some of the nicest feature crisp all-white linen, comfortable furniture, and smart fittings with exposed stone walls. www.colonianet.com/plazamayor

THE PAMPAS

BAHIA BLANCA Hotel Austral

Avenida Colon 159 Tel (0291) 456-1700 Rooms 88 The smartest property in town, this modern hotel is popular mostly with conference organizers and corporate travelers. The spacious lobby, however, doesn’t feel officious and the staff are extremely helpful and efficient. The guest rooms are airy and comfortable. www.hoteles-austral.com.ar

LA PLATA San Marco Hotel

Calle 54 nº 523 Tel (0221) 422-9322 Rooms 50 Although this nondescript tower does not look anything special, the lobby service is polite and efficient and the rooms are clean and well-lit, with en suite bathrooms. Some have sweeping views of the city. The hotel also offers gym facilities. www.sanmarcohotel.com.ar

MAR DEL PLATA Hotel Amsterdam

Boulevard Maritimo Patricio Peralta Ramos 4799 Tel (0223) 451-5137 Rooms 29 Built as a family home in the 1920s, the Amsterdam is one of Mar del Plata’s more intimate hotels. The luxury suites are spacious and clean, and there is a sea view from almost every room. Conveniently located for Playa Chica, the landmark Torreón del Monje, and the city golf club. www.hotelamsterdam.com.ar

MAR DEL PLATA Sheraton

Alem 4221 Tel (011) 414-0000 Rooms 191 A modern, mid-rise tower which enjoys great views over the golf club and the beaches of Playa Grande. The rooms are decorated in muted tones, with white bedding and comfortable chairs and sofas. Ten conference rooms means the place draws a substantial number of business visitors. www.sheratonmardelplata.com.ar

MIRAMAR Refugio de Mar

Avenida 9 nº 749 Tel (02291) 434-115 Rooms 22 Perfect to get into Argentina´s Atlantic coast beach vibe, these smart, clean cabins are just five blocks from the town center and come with Wi-Fi, maid service, and fridges. Up to six people can sleep in a single cabin, so the deal also works out to be quite economical. www.refugiodemarmiramar.com.ar

NECOCHEA Hostería del Bosque

Calle 89, 350 Tel (02262) 420-002 Rooms 12 A pretty French-Basque mansion which has been cleverly reimagined as a comfortable guesthouse. Hostería del Bosque is located in a quiet residential area and has a small garden filled with tumbling bougainvillea and potted plants. Rooms are old-fashioned and romantic, with lots of natural light. www.hosteriasyposadas.com

PINAMAR Hotel Las Calas

Bunge 560 Tel (02254) 405-999 Rooms 16 This lodge-style boutique hotel has simply decorated, spacious rooms with gleaming wooden floors. Dining is in a small bar, which serves an excellent breakfast with bread made on site every morning. The hotel offers cured meats, wines, freshly baked pizzas, and also special seasonal meals. www.lascalashotel.com.ar

SANTA ROSA Hotel Calfucura

San Martín 695 Tel (02954) 433-303 Fax (02954) 423-612 Rooms 96 Although more than 40 years old, this high-rise hotel still looks smart and gleaming. The rooms are spacious and done up in interesting contemporary designs that make use of traditional Argentinian motifs. There is a decent restaurant and the higher floors afford panoramic views of the city and beyond. www.hotelcalfucura.com

TANDIL Lo de Olga Gandolfi

Chacabuco 977 Tel (02293) 440-258 Rooms 10 This lovely town house, built in 1918, has been fully refurbished and given a bright, vibrant paint job without sacrificing any of its character. Rooms are a little on the small side but they are spotlessly clean and there is an airy common living room with views over the garden. www.lodeolgagandolfi.com.ar

VILLA GESELL Hotel Bahia

Avenida 1, nº 855 Tel (02255) 462-960 Fax (02255) 462-838 Rooms 32 Although the hotel is housed in a rather unattractive concrete tower, the rooms, painted in lovely pastel shades, offer spectacular views of the sea. They are also equipped with a fridge, television, hair dryer and all other amenities. There is a small but pleasant spa, a gym, and a highly rated restaurant. www.hotelbahia-gesell.com.ar

VILLA VENTANA Hotel Atero

Cnr Avenida San Martín and Guemes Tel (0291) 491-5002 Rooms 12 A small, peaceful three-star hotel that probably offers the most comfortable beds in town. The rooms are simply furnished and have basic amenities that include cable television. Service is friendly, attentive, and courteous. The restaurant serves excellent food and is a huge draw for non-residents as well. Key to Price Guide see p274 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

ARGENTINIAN MESOPOTAMIA COLÓN Hotel Costarenas

Avenida Quirós & 12 de Abril Tel (03447) 425-050 Rooms 77 A modern spa-hotel, Costarenas is located on the coastal avenue overlooking Río Uruguay. Rooms come with king- or queen-sized beds, and amenities include a state-of-the-art spa and two lounge areas, one with great views of the river and its islands. Rooms with a beach view are worth the extra dollars. www.hotelcostarenas.com.ar

CORRIENTES Hotel Turismo

Entre Ríos 650 Tel (03783) 433-174 Rooms 43 Built in the Spanish hacienda style, fronting Río Paraná, the Turismo is a delightful retreat. Its cool interior consists of polished wood, chandeliers, spiral staircases, and wide corridors. There is a huge outdoor pool and the atmospheric restaurant is among Corrientes’s best. Rooms are great value for money.

ESTEROS DEL IBERÁ Irupé Lodge

Calle 1 & Ruta Provincial 40, Colonia Carlos Pellegrini Tel (03752) 438-312 Rooms 7 Located in Colonia Carlos Pellegrini and constructed on wooden poles on the shores of Laguna Iberá, this lovely lodge has rooms in pastel colors and a large garden with tropical birds. The owners, a Swiss-Argentinian couple, arrange transfers from Mercedes as well as Cessna flights from Iguazú. www.irupelodge.com.ar

GUALEGUAYCHÚ Hotel Aguay

Avenida Costanera 130 Tel (03446) 422-099 Rooms 30 Gualeguaychú’s top-rated hotel, the friendly Aguay emphasizes river views – 20 of its rooms and the rooftop pool, breakfast bar, and terrace all overlook the adjacent river. Artwork abounds as the owner’s mother is a painter; other touches include motion-sensitive lighting on corridors. www.hotelaguay.com.ar

PARANÁ Gran Hotel Paraná

Urquiza 976 Tel (0343) 422-3900 Fax (0343) 422-3979 Rooms 120 The Gran Hotel Paraná is ideally located – fronting Paraná’s main square and within easy reach of its museums. Rooms come in three price categories, guaranteeing options for both the budget and business traveler. Service is excellent and there is a small spa and gym to relax and work out in. www.hotelesparana.com.ar

PUERTO IGUAZÚ Hostería Los Helechos

Paulino Amarante 76 Tel (03757) 420-338 Rooms 60 This charming hideaway has plenty to offer the budget tourist, from a central location and lovely flower-filled garden with a pool to a restaurant that dishes up homemade regional specialities. The decor may be a little dated for some, but all rooms are clean and generously proportioned. www.hosterialoshelechos.com.ar

PUERTO IGUAZÚ Hotel Esturión

Avenida Tres Fronteras 650 Tel (03757) 421-468 Fax (03757) 420-100 Rooms 128 The Esturión’s best feature is its fabulous river and rainforest vistas, seen from both the spacious suites and lounge areas. There is also a sloping garden with tropical flora, a large pool, and lovely interior design touches, such as native-bamboo mirror frames and Guaraní-inspired paintings in each of the rooms. www.hotelesturion.com

PUERTO IGUAZÚ Hotel Saint George

Avenida Córdoba 148 Tel (03757) 420-633 Fax (03757) 420-633 Rooms 100 Located at the center of town, the Saint George’s signature feature is its outdoor pool, set within a colorful tropical garden and flanked by an outdoor gym and sauna as well as a bar. Spread over five floors, the rooms are simply furnished but comfortable, and overlook either the street or garden. www.hotelsaintgeorge.com

ROSARIO Hotel Majestic

San Lorenzo 980 Tel (0341) 440-5872 Fax (0341) 448-2922 Rooms 50 Aptly named, the Majestic is a grand French-style building that dates from 1908. Occupying half a city block, it boasts a delightful façade, lined with lacy iron balconies and topped by an elegant cupola. The renovated, re-equipped interior is very modern and has good-sized, well-priced rooms. www.hotelmajestic.com.ar

ROSARIO Ros Tower Hotel

Mitre 299 Tel (0341) 529-9000 Rooms 139 Opened in late 2006, the Ros Tower is Rosario’s first five-star hotel. Rooms are contemporary, stylish, and excellently equipped. Amenities are fantastic and best of all is the 16th-floor spa, with deck and outdoor heated pool, both of which offer panoramic views of the city, the river, and the Paraná Delta. www.rostowerhotel.com.ar

SAN IGNACIO MINÍ Hotel Portal del Sol

Rivadavia 1105 Tel (03752) 470-005 Rooms 13 Opened in 2006, this hotel is a short stroll to the Jesuit ruins. There are ten private rooms, all with television, powerful showers, and firm mattresses, and three dormitories, each sleeping up to six persons. Staff are very helpful and can advise on bus times to Puerto Iguazú. www.lacarpaazul.com

CÓRDOBA AND THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST

CAFAYATE Vieja Posada

Diego de Almagro 87 Tel (03868) 422-251 Rooms 6 Beautiful, airy Italianate neocolonial posada with leafy public areas and elegantly furnished bedrooms. The hotel is just two blocks away from Cafayate’s main plaza, and the staff are very helpful when it comes to organizing wine tours or other more active excursions. www.viejaposada.com.ar

CÓRDOBA Tango Hostel

Fructuosa Rivera 70 Tel (54351) 425-6023 Rooms 6 Simple but spotless hostel with young, enthusiastic managers and a range of rooms, some en suite and others with shared bathrooms. The place has a small library and also offers Spanish lessons. Their restaurant has an “any time” breakfast menu, as well as a range of vegetarian options. www.latitudsurtrek.com.ar

CÓRDOBA Estancia La Paz

Ruta E66, Km 14, Ascochinga Tel (03525) 492-073 Fax (03525) 492-073 Rooms 21 Once President Julio A. Roca’s grand estate, this luxurious estancia-hotel is ideally located for exploring the sierras and Jesuit estancias. Apart from having a pool and solarium on site, the estancia also organizes treks, horse-riding, bird-watching, and fishing trips. There are is also a polo and golf course. www.estancialapaz.com

CÓRDOBA Dos Lunas

Alto Ongamira, Todos Los Santos Tel (011) 156-219-5390 Rooms 5 A beautiful, remote country estate high up in the hills, this house is designer rustic, full of gorgeous old furniture, ponchos hanging on the wall, and exquisite antiques. The owners cook wonderful country dishes and give tips on a range of walks in the surrounding region. www.doslunas.com.ar

HUMAHUACA Hostal Azúl

Barrio milagrosa s/n Tel (03887) 421-596 Rooms 8 Located slightly out of town, Hostal Azúl is set against an awe-inspiring backdrop of rocky mountains. Brightly colored rugs give a splash of colour to this simple and friendly little hotel which has wooden furniture and an array of interesting bric-a-brac.

MOLINOS Hostal de Molinos

Ossa de Montiel Tel (03868) 494-002 A sprawling 18th-century estate, Molinos keeps intact the old Spanish tradition of austere interiors and little decoration. The rooms feature wrought-iron beds handsomely dressed with handwoven blankets. The service is personal and efficient. Molinos is the perfect base for organizing horseback treks. www.hostalelmolino.net

PURMAMARCA El Manantial del Silencio

Ruta Nacional 52, Km 3.5 Tel (0388) 490-8080 Fax (0388) 490-8081 Rooms 19 A former monastery, this hotel has rooms that are minimally yet tastefully decorated. A well-trained chef cooks Andean dishes in the smart restaurant. This place is a favorite with business people from Jujuy, celebrities from Buenos Aires and the US, and even some European royals. www.hotelmanantial.com.ar

SALTA Solar de la Plaza

JM Leguizamon 669 Tel (0387) 431-5111 Fax (0387) 431-5111 Rooms 30 The Solar de la Plaza prides itself on combining personalized, boutique service with an old-style setting. The rooms are decorated with regional handicrafts made from iron, alpaca, and wood, while the restaurant is one of the best in town, offering new takes on Andean recipes. www.solardelaplaza.com.ar

TAFI DEL VALLE Hostería Lunahuana

Gobernador Critto 540 Tel (03867) 421-330 Fax (03867) 421-360 Rooms 32 A low-slung colonial-style hotel with well-decorated rooms that are all spacious and painted a simple white. They also have lovely textiles on the walls and antique furnishings. The hotel’s restaurant specializes in regional food, such as empanadas, humitas, and tamales. www.lunahuana.com.ar

TILCARA Posada de Luz

Amrosetti, cnr Alverro Tel (0388) 495-5017 Rooms 6 A genius for color and design is evident in all the rooms of this delightful hotel – warm, natural pastel hues make the bedrooms and spacious public areas restful. There are large gardens, and cane matting provides shady walkways on the patios. The staff can organize musical evenings and llama rides for guests. www.posadadeluz.com.ar

TILCARA Rincon de Fuego

Ambrosetti 445 Tel (0388) 495-5130 Rooms 6 A stunning boutique hotel that pays homage to life in Quebrada de Humahuaca (see pp196–200). It takes the best from pre-Columbian house designs and Hispanic architecture, and has cane ornaments and rough stone walls. The exceptional restaurant serves vegetables grown in its own organic patch. www.rincondefuego.com Key to Price Guide see p274 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

CUYO AND THE WINE COUNTRY

LOS PENITENTES Hotel Ayelen

Ruta Nacional 7, Km 165 Tel (0261) 427-1283 Fax (0261) 427-1123 Rooms 48 A rugged mountain hotel, Ayelen is located near the Penitentes ski area a short distance east of Parque Provincial Aconcagua. Rooms are spacious but plain; the windows are small to conserve heat in winter and hence the views and natural light are limited. In summer, the hotel offers a shuttle service to the park entrance. www.ayelen.net

MALARGÜE Hostel Internacional Malargüe

Finca 65, Colonia Pehuenche Tel (02627) 470-391 Rooms 9 A semi-rural hostel with extensive grounds, it has easy access to the elite ski resort of Las Leñas (see p219). The dormitories are basic yet comfortable and have private baths and floor heating. The place offers home-made meals, a bar, kitchen access, and rental bikes. The service is friendly and informal. www.hostelmalargue.net

MENDOZA Hostel Independencia

Mitre 1237 Tel (0261) 423-1806 Rooms 8 Just steps from the central Plaza Independencia, this immaculately renovated century-old house has crowded dormitory accommodations but more comfortable private rooms. Amenities include a wine bar, barbecue area, and kitchen privileges. Operators arrange vineyard visits and other excursions. www.hostelindependencia.com.ar

MENDOZA Hotel Milena

Pasaje Babilonia 17 Tel (0261) 420-2490 Fax (0261) 420-2490 Rooms 20 Modern and central, this cozy hotel’s cul-de-sac location ensures quiet despite its proximity to a number of busy roads. The tidy utilitarian rooms are on the small side but are well maintained. Although it lacks a restaurant, the place has a cafeteria and bar, with 24-hour room service. www.milenahotel.com.ar

MENDOZA Hotel Puerta del Sol

Garibaldi 82 Tel (0261) 420-4820 Fax (0261) 420-4820 Rooms 75 A modest but modern downtown hotel, this is just minutes from the Sarmiento pedestrian mall and Plaza Independencia. The rooms have standard amenities and are bright, cheerful, and immaculate. Although the hotel is located near two busy avenues, the huge trees outside it dilute the noise. www.hotelpuertadelsol.com.ar

MENDOZA Hotel Balbi

Avenida Las Heras 340 Tel (0261) 423-3500 Fax (0261) 438-0626 Rooms 108 A classic high-rise hotel, this place originally opened for the busy wine harvest festival. Rooms and common areas both eschew contemporary design, and furnishings fall short of contemporary style, but everything is well maintained. It has its own gallery, focusing on regional artists, and a chamber music salon. www.hotelbalbi.com.ar

MENDOZA Hotel Carollo

25 de Mayo 1184 Tel (0261) 423-5666 Fax (0261) 423-5666 Rooms 50 A well-managed business-oriented hotel on a tree-lined street, Carollo is close to restaurants and bars. The carpeted rooms are above average in size, with standard furniture for its price range, while common areas are equally conventional. Centrally controlled air-conditioning requires a call to the front desk. www.hotelcarollo.com

MENDOZA Parador del Angel

Newbery 5418 Tel (0261) 496-2201 Rooms 8 Set in a century-old adobe building, this bed-and-breakfast place has lush, spacious gardens, and is located in the heart of Mendoza’s “gourmet ghetto.” The rooms are decorated in rustic style with local artworks and crafts items collected from the owners’ travels in northwestern Argentina, Europe, and Asia. www.paradordelangel.com.ar

MENDOZA Plaza Italia

Montevideo 685 Tel (0261) 423-4219 Rooms 4 Cozy and quiet but relatively formal, this family-run place has four upstairs bedrooms with antique furniture and contemporary baths. Common areas include the breakfast room and patio. It is centrally located across from Plaza Italia and has easy access to quality restaurants and entertainment. www.plazaitalia.net

MENDOZA Hotel Huentala

Primitivo de la Reta 1007 Tel (0261) 420-0766 Fax (0261) 420-0766 Rooms 81 Centrally located, this hotel was recently renovated as a boutique affiliate of the Sheraton chain. The rates are reasonable, but the upgrade has not completely overshadowed its conventional Francophile pretensions in the furnishings and common areas. The subterranean wine bar, however, shows some originality. www.huentala.com

MENDOZA Finca Adalgisa

Pueyrredón 2222 Tel (0261) 496-0713 Fax (0261) 496-0713 Rooms 11 A comfortable semi-suburban hotel, with its own small vineyard, winery, and an excellent tapas restaurant. The renovated adobe house has three rooms, while a newer building in a similar style has larger rooms and suites, some with terraces and views of the pool, vineyard, and surrounding landscape. www.fincaadalgisa.com.ar

MENDOZA Hotel Termas Cacheuta

Ruta Provincial 82, Km 38 Tel (02624) 490-152 Rooms 16 A traditional spa hotel set among the foothills northwest of Mendoza city, this replaces earlier hotels destroyed by floods. A new hydroelectric dam protects the current place, which has modern conveniences on sprawling, finely landscaped grounds, with palms and pepper trees. The rates include full board. www.termascacheuta.com

MENDOZA Cavas Wine Lodge

Costaflores s/n Tel (0261) 410-6927 Rooms 14 Surrounded by vineyards and views of the Andes, this luxurious new spa hotel is close to Mendoza city. Rooms are free-standing adobes with plunge pools and rooftop terraces, scattered among the vines for maximum privacy. The restaurant (see p299), spa, and other common areas occupy a separate structure. www.cavaswinelodge.com

MENDOZA Park Hyatt Hotel

Chile 1124 Tel (0261) 441-1234 Fax (0261) 441-1235 Rooms 186 Only the neocolonial façade of the original Plaza Hotel remains and this new luxury hotel, built in its place, makes a modest imprint on the cityscape. Sizeable rooms are contemporary in design; some have lovely city and Andean views. A soaring atrium lobby makes brilliant use of natural light. www.mendoza.park.hyatt.com

SAN AGUSTÍN DEL VALLE FÉRTIL Hostería Valle Fértil

Rivadavia 1510 Tel (02646) 420-015 Rooms 38 A modest hilltop resort hotel set in extensive grounds within a scenic village with access to the wild backcountry of Sierras Pampeanas. The plain rooms have kitchen and barbecue facilities. The hotel makes a good base for excursions to Ischigualasto (see p217) and Talampaya (see p185). www.alkazarhotel.com/vallefertil

SAN JUAN Hostel Argentia

Sarmiento 57 Norte Tel (0264) 421-4206 Rooms 7 Along with dorm accommodation and attractive common areas, this spacious old hotel also has private rooms and secluded garden apartments. Although the meals are unremarkable, the restaurant has a good stock of underrated local wines. The friendly staff helps arrange excursions. www.hostelargentia.com.ar

SAN JUAN Hotel Alkázar

Laprida 82 Este Tel (0264) 421-4965 Fax (0264) 421-4977 Rooms 104 Popular with business travelers, this modern high-rise hotel is located in downtown San Juan. Except for the spacious suites, the rooms are smaller than one might expect in a place with a four- or five-star rating. The efficient staff is experienced in dealing with international clientele. www.alkazarhotel.com.ar

SAN JUAN Hotel Termas de Pismanta

Ruta Nacional 150 Tel (02647) 497-091 Fax (02647) 497-092 Rooms 34 Although well past its prime, this hot springs hotel, primarily visited by retired Argentinians, retains a certain 1950s charm. Inexpensive thermal baths are complemented by diverse spa services, and a moderately-priced decent restaurant. The staff are efficient and friendly. www.pismantaspa.com.ar

SAN LUIS Hotel Aiello

Avenida Presidente Illia 431 Tel (02652) 425-609 Fax (02652) 425-694 Rooms 61 An architecturally undistinguished mid-range hotel, Aiello has ample rooms and comfortable, conventional furniture. The relatively small windows, however, allow limited natural light. The busy yet quiet location is an easy walk from San Luis’s restaurant and pub district. www.hotelaiello.com.ar

SAN RAFAEL Hotel Jardín

Avenida Hipólito Yrigoyen 283 Tel (02627) 434-621 Fax (02627) 434-621 Rooms 27 Despite the kitschy pseudo-colonial exterior, this is a well-managed and comfortable hotel. The downstairs rooms, however, are fairly dark. Although it faces a busy avenue, the hotel has a large peaceful patio to relax in. The breakfast is forgettable, but low rates make it an excellent value meal. www.hoteljardinhotel.com.ar

SAN RAFAEL Tower Inn & Suites

Avenida Hipólito Yrigoyen 774 Tel (02627) 427-190 Fax (02627) 436-947 Rooms 96 The tallest hotel in Mendoza province, this provides the city’s only full-service accommodations. Frequented by business travelers, this modern building took 35 years to complete after construction commenced in 1966. In addition to standard amenities, it has a casino and a spa with sauna. www.towersanrafael.com

TUNUYÁN Bodega Salentein

Emilio Civit 778 Tel (0261) 441-1000 Fax (0261) 423-8565 Rooms 8 A secluded guesthouse located on the grounds of its namesake winery (see pp210–11), Salentein offers spectacular Andean views, hiking, horse-riding, and its own trout-stocked pond. Guests can tour and taste at the subterranean winery, which has its own ground-level art gallery and restaurant (see p300). www.salenteintourism.com

USPALLATA Gran Hotel Uspallata

Ruta Nacional 7, Km 1149 Tel (0261) 420-4820 Fax (0261) 420-4820 Rooms 74 A handsome renovated structure, Hotel Uspallata has comfortable no-frills rooms, but the sprawling grounds, with rows of towering poplars, are the star in a scenic area where Seven Years in Tibet was filmed. The hotel’s most unusual feature is a four-lane bowling alley. www.granhoteluspallata.com.ar Key to Price Guide see p274 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

PATAGONIA

ALUMINÉ Hotel Pehuenia

Ruta Provincial 23 & Capitán Crouzeilles Tel (02942) 496-340 Rooms 42 All rooms at the charming and rustic Pehuenia have Andean vistas, though a few extra dollars means river views too. Amenities and services include a large communal lounge, quiet reading room, and, for anglers, fly shop and fishing guides. The staff also arrange rafting, horse-riding, and trekking trips. www.hotelpehuenia.com.ar

BARILOCHE Hotel Quillén

Avenida San Martín 415 Tel (02944) 422-669 Fax (02944) 422-669 Rooms 28 Located in the city center, the Quillén (Strawberry Fields) is the pick of Bariloche’s budget hotels. On its fourth floor there is a small spa, with staff at hand to give therapeutic massages, while a third of the rooms have uninterrupted lake views. The hotel has English-speaking staff. www.hotelquillen.com.ar

BARILOCHE Hostería Costas del Nahuel

Avenida Bustillo 937 Tel (02944) 439-919 Rooms 15 An excellent value inn, this hostería is located on the shore of the lake, and a brief walk from Centro Cívico. All rooms are en suite; there is a communal lounge and an outdoor pool close to the lake. The poolside terrace is perfect for breakfasts and barbecues. The helpful staff can arrange excursions. www.costasdelnahuel.com.ar

BARILOCHE Hotel Tres Reyes

Avenida 12 de Octubre 135 Tel (02944) 426-121 Fax (02944) 424-230 Rooms 53 On Bariloche’s coastal avenue, one block from the main drag, this pleasant mid-range choice has light, large, and comfortable rooms, some with beautiful lake views. Furnishings and decor are somewhat dated, but there is a quiet private garden at the back of the hotel as well as an inviting lounge area. www.hoteltresreyes.com

BARILOCHE Design Suites Bariloche

Avenida Bustillo, Km 2.5 Tel (02944) 457-000 Fax (02944) 457-000 Rooms 54 Built in a strikingly contemporary design, Design Suites faces the lake and has spacious, stylish standard rooms with mountain views and suites with lounge Jacuzzis and extraordinary lake vistas. Facilities include indoor and outdoor pools. A shuttle service runs downtown and to ski slopes in the winter. www.designsuites.com

BARILOCHE Kenton Palace

Morales 338 Tel (02944) 456-654 Rooms 72 Well located one block from Bariloche’s Centro Cívico and about two from Lago Nahuel Haupi, this glossy hotel has bright, spacious double rooms. Most of them have great lake views and all are decorated in relaxing creamy tones. The excellent amenities include a spa and a restaurant serving regional cuisine. www.kentonpalace.com.ar

BARILOCHE Villa Huinid Resort & Spa

Avenida Bustillo, Km 2.6 Tel (02944) 523-523 Fax (02944) 523-523 Rooms 73 A few minutes from downtown Bariloche, Villa Huinid is idyllically located overlooking Lago Nahuel Huapi. Each of its rooms is light, modern, and tastefully decorated. Facilities include an indoor pool, children’s playroom, and spa. Guests can also rent one of 12 mountain-style cottages. www.villahuinid.com.ar

COMODORO RIVADAVIA Austral Plaza Hotel

Moreno 725 Tel (0297) 447-2200 Rooms 164 Popular with business travelers and tourists, the Austral has generously-sized, thickly carpeted, and excellently equipped double rooms. Elegant suites come with sea views, Jacuzzi, and superior hardwood furnishings. There is also a first-rate restaurant and a brand new pool and spa. www.australhotel.com.ar

COMODORO RIVADAVIA Comodoro Hotel

9 de Julio 770 Tel (0297) 447-2300 Fax (0297) 447-3363 Rooms 105 The Comodoro was the hotel of choice for visiting oil executives when it first opened in 1976. Today, it is a little frayed around the edges but is still a good medium-budget choice, with simply furnished but spacious and clean rooms spread over eight floors. It also has a convenient downtown location. www.comodoro-hotel.com.ar

EL BOLSÓN La Posada de Hamelín

Int. Granollers 2179 Tel (02944) 492-030 Rooms 4 For a fairytale trip to El Bolsón, book a stay at this enchanting posada. Everything is warm and welcoming, from the ivy-clad exterior to the wooden furnishings and charming rooms, each distinct in decor, each with its own private bathroom. Home-made breakfasts are delicious; the owners are very hospitable. www.posadadehamelin.com.ar

EL BOLSÓN Hotel Cordillera

Avenida San Martín 3220 Tel (02944) 492-235 Rooms 30 El Bolsón’s only three-star hotel, the Cordillera has functional rooms lining rather institutional corridors. Saving graces include a homely lounge area, piano bar, and filling breakfasts with organic produce from nearby farms. Visitors should ask for a room with a balcony and views of Cerro Piltriquitrón.

EL CALAFATE Hostería Los Nires

9 de Julio 281 Tel (02902) 493-642 Rooms 7 Three blocks from the main avenue, the quiet, cabin-like Los Nires has simple, warm rooms, five of which are doubles. All are carpeted – important in the winter months – and come with tasteful wood furnishings. Perhaps the best feature is the lounge area with a roaring open fireplace and snug sofas.

EL CALAFATE Hostería Schilling

Gob. Paradelo 141 Tel (02902) 491-453 Fax (02902) 491-453 Rooms 21 A little jewel of an inn, this hostería has stacks of character. Standard doubles are a throwback to the 1970s with faded, flowery wallpaper; superior rooms cost more but are modern. Communal spaces include a garden and patio shaded by tall pine trees, and a comfortable lounge and television area. www.hosteriaschilling.com.ar

EL CALAFATE Los Canelos

Pto. San Julián 149 Tel (02902) 493-890 Rooms 10 One of several new hotels to open on the picturesque Altos de Calafate hillside at the edge of town, this stands out for its attractive Alpine design and warm, rustic interior. Visitors can choose from ten small but snug rooms, six with vistas of Lago Argentino, and also enjoy the flower-filled, landscaped garden. www.loscanelos.com

EL CALAFATE Design Suites

Calle 94 nº 190, Playa Lago Argentino Tel (02902) 494-525 Rooms 60 Located on a peninsula fronting Lago Argentino, Design Suites combines fabulous location with striking design. Rooms come with steppe view or, for a few dollars more, stunning floor-to-ceiling lake vistas. Amenities include a heated pool, a spa, and art gallery. Shuttles make the 10-minute trip to town. www.designsuites.com

EL CALAFATE Posada Los Alamos

Ing. Hector Mario Guatti 1350 Tel (02902) 491-144 Rooms 144 This exclusive hideaway at the heart of El Calafate is just two blocks from the town’s main avenue. It has tennis courts, a spa, and even a three-hole golf course with a lake challenge. Very family friendly with baby-sitting service and children’s pool. Rooms are light, airy, and supremely comfortable. www.posadalosalamos.com

EL CHALTÉN Nothofagus B&B

Hensen esq Riquelme Tel (02962) 493-087 Rooms 7 A small place with a warm, homely feel, Nothofagus has blue clapboard walls and timber roofing. Of the seven rooms, six are doubles, three with private bathrooms. The staff provides a laundry service and can prepare tasty, filling lunchboxes for day treks into Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. www.elchalten.com/nothofagus

EL CHALTÉN Hostería El Puma

Lionel Terray 212 Tel (02962) 493-095 Fax (02962) 493-017 Rooms 12 Owned by a local mountaineer, this charming, upscale inn has tastefully decorated rooms, all rustically calming with bare-brick walls, wooden beams, stripped floorboards, and valley views. Communal areas include an atmospheric lounge with open fireplace and a first-rate restaurant. www.hosteriaelpuma.com.ar

EL CHALTÉN Posada Lunajuim

Trevisán 45 Tel (02962) 493-047 Fax (02962) 493-047 Rooms 20 An attractive mountain inn, this has a boutique feel, with distinct and well-designed rooms. Visitors should ask for one of four rooms with views of Mount Fitz Roy, or for a more spacious room in the hotel’s newer wing. Other features include a lounge area with a well-stocked library and a decent restaurant. www.elchalten.com/lunajuim

EL CHALTÉN Los Cerros

San Martín s/n Tel (02962) 493-182 Rooms 44 Standard doubles at this impressive, and very exclusive, mountain lodge come with king-sized beds, hydromassage baths, and wide views of the Río de las Vueltas valley. The service is excellent and there is a gourmet restaurant with yet more fantastic vistas, as well as a spa and a full outdoor excursion program. www.loscerrosdelchalten.com

ESQUEL Hotel Sol del Sur

9 de Julio 1094 Tel (02945) 452-189 Fax (02945) 452-427 Rooms 53 Central and modern, the Sol del Sur makes up in amenities what it lacks in character. Its in-house agency arranges fishing and skiing trips and there is a well-stocked ski shop. Rooms are good value but the best feature is the breakfast bar with panoramic views of the city and mountains. www.hsoldelsur.com.ar

ESQUEL Cumbres Blancas

Avendia Ameghino 1683 Tel (02945) 455-100 Rooms 20 With hillside views, Cumbres Blancas (Snowy Summits) is a lovely hostería with warmly-decorated, elegantlyfurnished rooms. Amenities include a restaurant specializing in regional cuisine and a large private garden with a small lake, putting green, and its own colony of wild rabbits. www.cumbresblancas.com.ar

GAIMAN Hostería Gwesty Tywi

M D Jones 342 Tel (02965) 491-292 Rooms 6 A block and a half from Gaiman’s main street, this warm, family-run inn has comfortable rooms and lots of communal space that includes a lounge area, a pleasant, flower-filled garden, and a sun terrace with tables for alfresco drinks. The friendly staff can arrange excursions and transfers. Key to Price Guide see p274 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

GAIMAN Hostería Ty Gwyn

9 de Julio 111 Tel (02965) 491-009 Rooms 4 Housed within the teahouse of the same name, this lovely little place is owned by Welsh-speaking descendants of Gaiman’s first settlers. There are two double and two single rooms; all open onto a balcony with views of Río Chubut. Delicious home-made breakfasts are served in the teahouse.

JUNÍN DE LOS ANDES Hostería Chimehuin

Coronel Suarez & 25 de Mayo Tel (02972) 491-132 Fax (02972) 492-503 Rooms 23 The Chimehuin consists of four separate whitewashed buildings, the oldest of which is 60 years old. Amazingly, given its economical rates, the inn overlooks a running stream and private islet, accessible only to guests. A small number of balconied rooms have views of both features. www.interpatagonia.com/hosteriachimehuin

LOS ANTIGUOS Hostería Antigua Patagonia

Ruta Provincial 43, Acceso Este Tel (02963) 491-038 Rooms 16 Located close to the center of Los Antiguos, this hotel fronts the shore of Lago Buenos Aires. Rooms come with views of both lake and snowcapped cordillera and include standard facilities such as central heating, television, and private bathrooms. The staff can arrange fishing, horse-riding, and trekking trips. www.antiguapatagonia.com.ar

NEUQUÉN Hotel Suizo

Carlos H. Rodriguez 167 Tel (0299) 442-2602 Rooms 50 Warm, family-run, and centrally located, the Suizo is really two hotels in one, with rooms spread over old and new sections of the same house. The latter are marginally more expensive although they are all bright, spacious, and well-appointed, and come with broadband and Wi-Fi facilities. www.hotelsuizo.com.ar

NEUQUÉN Hotel del Comahue

Avenida Argentina 377 Tel (0299) 443-2040 Fax (0299) 447-3331 Rooms 99 Used mostly by visiting business executives, the Comahue is Neuquén’s premier hotel and boasts an outdoor pool, gourmet restaurant, stylish wine bar, and well-equipped gym. Modern rooms and suites receive lots of natural light and are spotlessly clean. The service is consummately professional. www.hoteldelcomahue.com

PENINSULA VALDÉS Hostería The Paradise

2º bajada al mar, Puerto Pirámides Tel (02965) 495-003 Fax (02965) 495-030 Rooms 12 Located in the peninsula’s only village, this romantic little hideaway sits just yards from rugged beach, sandy cliffs, and stunning marine fauna. Rooms are rustically cool with bare-brick walls, tiled floors, and lovely views. The staff can arrange marine safaris, horse-riding, diving, and sand-boarding excursions. www.hosteriaparadise.com.ar

PERITO MORENO Hotel Belgrano

Avenida San Martín 1001 Tel (02963) 432-019 Rooms 25 Popular with backpackers, Hotel Belgrano has basic but comfortable single and double rooms as well as dormitories. The owners can advise on bus timetables and visits to Cueva de las Manos. Bruce Chatwin, the British author who wrote In Patagonia, stayed here while journeying across the region. www.hotelbelgrano.com

PUERTO DESEADO Hotel Los Acantilados

España 1611 Tel (0297) 487-2167 Rooms 40 Perched on a cliff above the port area, Los Ancantilados offers Puerto Deseado’s best accommodation. More than half the rooms come with wide vistas of Río Deseado. The spacious suites have nice touches such as power showers and full-length dress mirrors. www.pdeseado.com.ar/acantour

PUERTO MADRYN Hostería Hipocampo

Vesta 33 & Boulevard Alte. Guillermo Brown Tel (02965) 473-605 Rooms 10 A small gem of an inn, Hipocampo is situated on a corner of the coastal avenue, a short walk from downtown Puerto Madryn. The reception area has a lovely, pebbled marine garden; three rooms have vistas of Golfo Nuevo in which whales can be seen between June and October. www.hosteriahipocampo.com

PUERTO MADRYN Hotel Bahía Nueva

Avenida Roca 67 Tel (02965) 451-677 Rooms 40 A traditionally styled lobby, with tall bookcases, open fireplace, and big sofas sets an inviting tone for this mid-range hotel. Standard doubles are well-equipped and presentable, if a little small; for a little extra visitors can choose one of four spacious suites with ocean views. Tasty home-made breakfasts are a plus. www.bahianueva.com.ar

PUERTO MADRYN Yene Hue Hotel & Spa

Avenida Roca 33 Tel (02965) 471-496 Rooms 64 Opened at the end of 2006, the Yene Hue is a superbly-equipped hotel with heated outdoor pool, modern gym, and a spa with masseurs on hand to remove the knots that traveling has put in. Spacious, thickly carpeted rooms come with ocean or city views, plus a balcony depending on the price category. www.australiset.com.ar

PUERTO MADRYN Hotel Territorio

Boulevard Alte. Guillermo Brown 3251 Tel (02965) 470-050 Fax (02965) 471-524 Rooms 36 Opened in 2006, the Territorio raised the standard of hotel design in Patagonia. Stylishly modern, it pays homage to the town’s past with a stone and aluminium façade that is symbolic of the city’s pioneer-era homes. Inside, beautifully-appointed rooms boast ocean vistas, as do the lounge and dining areas. www.hotelterritorio.com.ar

PUERTO SAN JULIÁN Hotel Ocean

Avenida San Martín 959 Tel (02962) 452-350 Rooms 13 On San Julián’s main avenue, Hotel Ocean is a good budget to mid-range option. Rooms are brightly painted and come with private bathrooms, television, and firm beds. The staff are helpful and very friendly, although the building itself may seem somewhat unattractive as it was originally home to a hospital clinic.

RÍO GALLEGOS Hotel Comercio

Avenida Roca 1302 Tel (02966) 420-209 Rooms 53 The paint may be peeling from its façade but the Comercio is still an excellent hotel. Grand columns and concertinadoored lifts remain from its glorious past, but extensive refurbishment of its interior has added more modern flourishes, and the rooms are some of the best in town. www.hotelcomercio.informacionrgl.com.ar

SAN MARTÍN DE LOS ANDES Le Village

General Roca 816 Tel (02972) 427-698 Fax (02972) 427-020 Rooms 23 Located in the center of town, this Swiss-inspired building impresses with its warm lobby and open fireplace, timber beams, and lenga wood furnishings. This rustic decor is repeated throughout the hotel. Along with rooms, guests can rent one of five well-equipped six-person cabins. www.hotellevillage.com.ar

SAN MARTÍN DE LOS ANDES Cerro Abanico

Ruta 7 Lagos, Km 4.5 Tel (02792) 423-723 Rooms 8 A boutique hotel, this place has a privileged location within Parque Nacional Lanín (see p237). Rooms are stylishly minimalist, with distinctive color schemes. The ones on the second floor offer better views of Lago Lácar. The terrace and large, sloping garden also enjoy great vistas. www.interpatagonia.com/cerroabanico

SAN MARTÍN DE LOS ANDES Le Chatelet

General Villegas 650 Tel (02972) 428-294 Rooms 31 Perhaps the most impressive of San Martín’s many Alpine-inspired hotels, Le Chatelet has light, airy rooms ornamented with Mapuche weavings and lenga-wood carvings. Amenities include a spa, with beauty and massage treatments, kids’ playroom, and outdoor pool. The staff can arrange excursions. www.hotellechatelet.com.ar

SAN MARTÍN DE LOS ANDES Ten Rivers & Ten Lakes Lodge

Circuito Arrayan, Km 4 Tel (011) 5917-7710 Fax (011) 4962-8995 Rooms 4 A beautiful, secluded mountain lodge, this place sits halfway up Cerro Arrayán, a short drive from town. There are four suites, each of which opens onto a private veranda with incredible vistas of Lago Lácar and the snow-topped Andes. Adjacent to the lodge is the century-old Arrayán teahouse. www.tenriverstenlakes.com

TRELEW Hotel Touring Club

Avenida Fontana 240 Tel (02965) 425-790 Fax (02965) 425-790 Rooms 30 Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, several Argentinian presidents, and author Antoine de Saint-Exupéry all stayed at the Touring Club in its early 20th-century heyday. Now a little faded, it is nonetheless a splendid budget choice, with a grand staircase, atmospheric bar, and bright double rooms. www.touringpatagonia.com.ar

TRELEW Hotel Rayentray

San Martín 101 Tel (02965) 434-702 Fax (02965) 435-559 Rooms 110 Trelew’s best-equipped hotel, the centrally-located Rayentray has spacious, well-appointed rooms as well as a heated pool, spa, and restaurant that serves international cuisine. Staff can arrange excursions to Punta Tombo (see p228) and Península Valdés (see pp226–7), as well as free airport transfers. www.cadenarayentray.com.ar

VIEDMA Hotel Austral

25 de Mayo & Avenida Villarino Tel (02920) 422-615 Rooms 100 The choice of former President Raul Alfonsín when he visited, the Austral is the most modern of Viedma’s hotels and is the only one that overlooks the city’s best feature, Río Negro. Generously-sized rooms come with views of the river, as do the comfortable lounge and dining areas. www.hoteles-austral.com.ar

VILLA EL CHOCÓN La Posada del Dinosaurio

Costa del Lago, Barrio 1 Tel (0299) 490-1200 Fax (0299) 490-1201 Rooms 8 The most outstanding feature of this guest house is its stunning location on the shores of the Ezequiel Ramos Mexía lake. Modern rooms come with balconies overlooking the jade-colored water, as does the spacious lounge area. Its restaurant is the best in town, serving trout and pasta specialities. www.posadadinosaurio.com.ar

VILLA LA ANGOSTURA Hostería Posta de los Colonos

Los Notros 19 Tel (02944) 494-386 Rooms 20 A rustically-styled lobby sets the tone for this friendly, family-run hotel, situated at the heart of Villa La Angostura’s small town center. Rooms are a little on the small side, but nonetheless snug, homely, and cabin-like, with low timber-beamed ceilings. Visitors should ask for one with vistas of Cerro Bayo. www.postaloscolonos.com.ar

VILLA LA ANGOSTURA Hostería La Escondida

Avenida Arrayanes 7014 Tel (02944) 475-313 Rooms 14 A lovely boutique hotel with a secluded location on the shores of Lago Nahuel Huapi, La Escondida has beautifullyappointed rooms with stunning lake views. Amenities include a small spa, an outdoor heated pool close to the lake, and a gourmet restaurant, splendidly housed in a century-old cottage. www.hosterialaescondida.com.ar Key to Price Guide see p274 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

TIERRA DEL FUEGO AND ANTARTICA

LAGO FAGNANO Hostería Kaikén

Ruta Nacional 3, Km 2942 Tel (02901) 492-372 Fax (02901) 492-372 Rooms 20 Sitting on the forested shores of Lago Fagnano, this appealing inn is located close to Tolhuin village. The rooms are modestly furnished and come with lake views. The staff can arrange transfers to and from airports in Ushuaia and Río Grande, as well as boat, horse-riding, and bird-watching excursions. www.hosteriakaiken.com.ar

RÍO GRANDE Hotel Federico Ibarra

Rosales 357 Tel (02964) 430-071 Rooms 35 Ideally situated on the main plaza, the Ibarra is Río Grande’s single three-star hotel. Rooms are fairly modern, if a little bare, and all have cable television and private bathrooms. Visitors should choose one with a view of the square or a quieter room towards the back of the hotel. www.federicoibarrahotel.com.ar

RÍO GRANDE Hotel Villa

Avenida José de San Martín 281 Tel (02964) 424-998 Rooms 10 A good budget choice, this downtown hotel is centrally located, if slightly frayed at the edges. Rooms come reasonably-sized, with cable television and private bathrooms, and there is broadband Internet access in the lobby. There is also a well-equipped apartment for guests willing to pay extra.

RÍO GRANDE Hostería Posada de los Sauces

Elcano 839 Tel (02964) 430-868 Rooms 23 A charming posada, this place is a more pleasant alternative to Río Grande’s many nondescript hotels. One block from the ocean and three from the city center, it has homely rooms, a recommendable restaurant, and a snug, atmospheric bar that comes with timber ceilings and an open fireplace. www.posadadelossauces.com.ar

USHUAIA Hostería Pioneros del Sur

Avenida Maipú 1453 Tel (02901) 433-911 Rooms 6 Located on the coastal avenue opposite the bay, the good-value Pioneros del Sur has brightly painted double rooms, each with hydromassage baths to unwind in after a hard day’s trekking within Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego (see p261). The communal lounge has cable television and views of Ushuaia Bay. www.pionerosdelsur.com.ar

USHUAIA Hotel Tierra del Fuego

Gobernador Deloqui 198 Tel (02901) 424-901 Fax (02901) 424-902 Rooms 43 Opened at the end of 2006, this downtown hotel emphasizes tranquillity with salmon-pink and beige tones predominating along with lots of native wood – a soothing combination after a long day outdoors. Around half of the rooms have bay views and all are very spacious and well equipped. www.tierradelfuegohotel.com

USHUAIA Hotel Cap Polonio

Avenida San Martín 746 Tel (02901) 422-140 Fax (02901) 422-131 Rooms 30 Named for the first tourist boat to arrive in the bay in 1923, the Cap Polonio is a family-orientated hotel in the city’s main area. Rooms are functional but lacking in charm and intimacy: more welcoming is the friendly staff, who help organize excursions. Amenities include a children’s playroom. www.hotelcappolonio.com.ar

USHUAIA Hotel Los Naranjos

Avenida San Martín 1446 Tel (02901) 435-862 Fax (02901) 435-873 Rooms 27 It’s difficult to miss the honeycomb façade of this smart hotel on Ushuaia’s main avenue. It’s just as difficult to deny the hotel’s attractiveness: from the mustard and orange hues of its interior to its generously-proportioned rooms. Most have vistas of Canal Beagle and the rest offer views of the Andes. www.losnaranjosushuaia.com

USHUAIA Hotel del Glaciar

Avenida Luis Fernando Martial 2355 Tel (02901) 430-640 Fax (02901) 430-636 Rooms 124 Located close to the city center, this elegant option overlooks Glaciar Martial. Rooms come with vistas of the bay or glacier and are well-designed and have comfortable king-sized double beds. The hotel has lounge areas decorated in Patagonian-ranch style and a gourmet restaurant. www.hoteldelglaciar.com

USHUAIA Los Acebos Ushuaia Hotel

Avenida Luis Fernando Martial 1911 Tel (02901) 424-234 Rooms 62 Perched on a forested hilltop, adjacent to sister hotel Las Hayas, the more modern, and economical, Los Acebos boasts comparable views of the bay and Canal Beagle. Warm, comfortable rooms come in muted tones and are thickly carpeted and generously sized. The staff are pleasant and professional. www.losacebos.com.ar

USHUAIA Las Hayas Resort Hotel

Avenida Luis Fernando Martial 1650 Tel (02901) 430-710 Fax (02901) 430-719 Rooms 90 Built in the style of a French château, overlooking Ushuaia from a hilltop location, the sumptuous Las Hayas has regally decorated, beautifully equipped rooms, and first-class facilities. Rooms come with bay or mountain views, while amenities include a spa, squash court, and an excellent restaurant (see p303). www.lashayashotel.com

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PRICE CATEGORIES The price ranges are for a meal for one, including tax and service charges and a half bottle of house wine. under $7 $8–$15 $16–$25 $26–$35 over $35

BUENOS AIRES PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO Cantina Pierino

Lavalle 3499 Tel (011) 4864-5715

Map 2 A4

Now run by the original owner’s grandson, this restaurant was once a favorite of tango legends such as Astor Piazzolla and Anibal Troilo. Serving authentic Italian food that is good value for money, Cantina Pierino offers homemade pastas, milanesas (veal cutlets), baked aubergine, and other popular dishes.

PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO Status

Virrey Cebellos 178, Congresso Tel (011) 4382-8531

Map 2 C5

A simple dining room, this restaurant is one of the best in town for authentic Peruvian cuisine. The food is tasty and reasonably priced. The specialties here include ceviche (marinated seafood salad), papa a la huancaína (potatoes in cheesy sauce), and sancochos (stews).

PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO Resto

Montevideo 838 Tel (011) 4816-6711

Map 2 C4

French chef Maria cooks delicious fish, beef, and chicken dishes. The menu changes every day and diners must remember to make reservations on Thursday and Friday nights. The wine list is carefully selected and customers also have the option to bring their own drinks.

PLAZA DE MAYO AND MICROCENTRO Tomo I

Hotel Panamericano, Carlos Pellegrini 521 Tel (011) 4326-6695

Map 3 D4

One of Buenos Aires’s best restaurants, this sophisticated temple of haute cuisine is located in the Panamericano (see p275) and owned by the Concaro sisters. All dishes are lovingly prepared and the pastas come particularly recommended. Their wine list is high-end and exclusive. Although rather expensive, Tomo I is definitely worth a try.

SAN TELMO AND LA BOCA Burzako

Mexico 345 Tel (011) 4334-0721

Map 1 E1

A bar-restaurant with a Spanish basement tavern, Burzako serves tasty tapas, fish dishes, and Basque specialties such as oxtail. Hearty desserts come in the shape of fig rolls and custard. Most of the dishes are served with drinks, and the restaurant has a good selection of wines.

SAN TELMO AND LA BOCA Comedor Nikkai

Avenida Independencia, cnr Piedras Tel (011) 4300-1182

Map 1 D1

Official eatery of the local Japanese community, Comedar Nikkai serves some of the best sushi in Buenos Aires. Apart from sushi, the place is well known for its octopus, fish, seaweed, and Japanese turnip dishes, and quality is always assured. Located in a vibrant area, Nikkai is an atmospheric place to dine.

SAN TELMO AND LA BOCA El Desnivel

Defensa 855 Tel (011) 4300-9082

Map 1 E1

One of San Telmo’s best parrillas and extremely popular with visitors, El Desnivel is a classic neighborhood steakhouse. Most of the dishes on the menu are inexpensive, service is friendly, and waiters are quick with the orders. As it is usually crowded at the weekend, it is advisable to go early or book in advance.

SAN TELMO AND LA BOCA Il Matterello

Martin Rodriguez 517 Tel (011) 4307-0529

Map 1 E3

One of the few classic Italian eateries, this restaurant is located near La Boca’s warehouses and port offices. Pastas are perfectly al dente and sauces are simple but tasty. The menu includes strascinati, ravioli, tagliatelle, and pasta dishes, and desserts such as tiramisu and postre de la nonna (grandma’s sweet).

SAN TELMO AND LA BOCA Miramar Avenida San Juan 1999 Tel (011) 4304-4261

Map 1 E1

Spanish omelet, rabo de buey (rabbit dish), and other Spanish standards are the trademarks of this restaurant. Their wine store has a good selection. A light lunch of Spanish tortilla, shrimps, or their famous oxtail stew is fabulous. On Sundays, master Julio Pane may play his bandonéon, adding a touch of nostalgia to the evening. Key to Symbols see back cover flap

SAN TELMO AND LA BOCA La Brigada

Estados Unidos Tel (011) 4361-4685

Map 1 E1

A cut above San Telmo’s other steakhouses, La Brigada prides itself on old-fashioned, formal service and excellent achuras (offal) such as chorizo (spicy sausages), morcilla (blood sausage), and crispy chinchulines de chivito (knots of intestine) as well as big steaks. The Don Pedro (ice cream, walnuts, and whiskey) is a must for dessert.

PLAZA SAN MARTÍN AND RETIRO El Establo

Paraguay 489, Retiro Tel (011) 4311-1639

Map 3 E4

This well-decorated restaurant is tourist-friendly and very popular with airline staff. The waiters can speak some English. It is a classic parrilla and serves huge, inexpensive steaks. There are some classic dishes on the menu such as Serrano ham, tortilla, and a wide range of pizzas, salads, and pastas.

PLAZA SAN MARTÍN AND RETIRO Filo

San Martín 975, Retiro Tel (011) 4311-0312

Map 3 E4

An authentic Italian joint, Filo serves over 100 delectable flat-base pizzas. The place also has a fabulous selection of meat dishes and Italian gnocchi, pickled calamesotti, as well as fresh pasta dishes. It is also a great place for just go for a cocktail, although it can be crowded from Thursday through Saturday.

PLAZA SAN MARTÍN AND RETIRO Empire Thai

Tres Sargentos 427 Tel (011) 4312-5706

Map 3 E4

With well-designed interiors, Empire Thai serves delicious Thai food. They can do a perfect green curry on demand, although most of the dishes on the menu are either chilli-free or less spicy to suit diners. Coconut and fruits are used to keep dishes sweet, and the satays are delicious.

RECOLETA Cumaná

Rodriguez Peña 1149 Tel (011) 4813-9207

Map 2 C3

A country-kitchen, Cumaná is a great place to try locro, the national stew made with beans, pork, chicken, vegetables, and red peppers. A mud oven is used to prepare many of the dishes and the mouth-watering aromas come rushing into the restaurant every time the kitchen door is opened.

RECOLETA El Cuartito

Talcahuano 937 Tel (011) 4816-1758

Map 3 D4

An old-fashioned restaurant, this pizzeria is an ideal place for a great night out. Its pizza toppings are standard – from the usual ham and tomato to tomato and garlic, provolone, or onion-based fugazettas – but El Cuartito uses good mozzarella. The restaurant offers hearty portions at a reasonable price.

RECOLETA Bi Won

Junin 548, Once Tel (011) 4372-1146

Map 2 C4

In the heart of Koreanovich – as former Jewish barrio Once is often called – Bi Won serves red hot kimchi (the Korean national dish of marinated, fermented vegetables), spinach, and other Korean standards. Meat dishes are prepared on the table and meals come as ten-plate buffets with eight tasty side dishes.

RECOLETA Piola Pizzerie

Libertad 1078 Tel (011) 4812-0690

Map 3 D3

This swanky pizzeria attracts the hip crowd in the capital. Opened in the early 1990s, Piola is part of a chain started in Italy. The Napolitana (cheese, beef, tomatoes, garlic) is a specialty but there are also 50 other toppings to choose from. They also serve pasta and a variety of salads.

RECOLETA Rodi Bar Vicente Lopez 1900 Tel (011) 4801-5230

Map 2 C4

Just a brief walk away from Cementerio Recoleta (see pp100–1), Rodi Bar is a relaxed lunch venue. Sample Argentinian provincial masterpieces such as lentil stew, mondongo (tripe), or hake in seafood sauce. The waiters also recommend exploring Spanish imports such as pulpo a la gallega (octopus in tomato and pepper sauce).

RECOLETA Gran Bar Danzon

Libertad 1161 Tel (011) 4811-1108

Map 3 D3

A great bar with a wine list of over 400 vintages, Danzon has a soothing ambience for a perfect evening. The restaurant pioneered good wines in the late 1990s and serves whites by the glass. The food is mainly Latin American with Patagonian lamb and a variety of duck dishes as highlights.

RECOLETA Lola

Roberto M Ortiz 1805 Tel (011) 4804-5959

Map 2 C2

Elegantly decorated with beautiful art on the walls, including cartoons by well-known Uruguayan cartoonist Hermengildo Sabat, Lola is a classic for a great night out. It has a European-style menu, one of the best in town. The milanesas, steaks, salmon served in champagne sauce, and braised duck are good.

RECOLETA Oviedo Beruti 2602 Tel (011) 4822-5415

Map 2 B3

One of the city’s top Spanish restaurants, Oviedo offers all the great Atlantic fish – sole, hake, bass – as well as beef, rabbit, and lamb dishes. They also serve excellent imported hams and cheese. Their wine list is considered one of the best in Buenos Aires.

PALERMO AND BELGRANO La Casa Polaca

Jorge Luis Borges 2076, Palermo Viejo Tel (011) 4899-0514

Map 5 D4

Almost all Buenos Aires’s immigrant communities have a place to meet and soak up Old World stories. La Casa Polaca is for the Polish social scene, where diners can feast on goulash, rollmops (rolled pickled herring fillet), steak and chips from the Pampas, and the standard Argentinian locro (stew). They also stock authentic vodkas.

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Bio

Humboldt 2199, Palermo Tel (011) 4774-3880

Map 4 C3

A vegetarian restaurant, this place serves excellent dishes to tempt even non-vegetarians. The menu offers seasonally available vegetable dishes and organic, locally-sourced stews, gazpacho (a chilled soup made with chopped tomatoes, cucumber, onion, red pepper, and herbs), smoothies, and great salads.

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Cielito Lindo

El Salvador 4999, Palermo Tel (011) 4832-8054

Map 4 C4

A cantina-style Mexican restaurant, Cielito Lindo serves refreshing margaritas as well as scrumptious enchiladas. The outdoor seating area is a good place to enjoy dinner on a pleasant evening. The place is usually crowded at weekends with lengthy queues outside the restaurant. It is advisable to arrive early.

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Dominga

Honduras 5618 Tel (011) 4771-4443

Map 4 C4

A quiet retreat with its own sunlit patio, Dominga is part sushi bar and part bistro. The main menu includes risotto cakes, fresh fish dishes, and an occasional Thai curry. They also serve delicious semolina gnocchi, and tasty starters such as pâté and baked mussels. Closed on Sundays.

PALERMO AND BELGRANO El Portugues

Báez 499, Las Cañitas. Tel (011) 4771-8699

Map 4 C2

Las Cañitas is known for its fancy restaurants but El Portugues is where the locals come to eat huge platters of meat and Argentinian standards such as mixed salad and provoleta (grilled provolone). The restaurant offers great food and atmosphere and is perfect for group outings.

PALERMO AND BELGRANO El Preferido de Palermo

Guatemala 4801 Tel (011) 4774-6585

Map 4 C3

One of the few old-style saloons left in Buenos Aires, this corner restaurant seems to be straight out of a story by Jorge Luis Borges. In operation since 1952, El Preferido de Palermo is located in the same block where the famous writer grew up. The food is decent Spanish cuisine – try especially the paella and noodle-based fiedeua.

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Green Bamboo

Costa Rica 5802 Tel (011) 4775-7050

Map 4 C3

Conveniently located on a street corner in the heart of Palermo, Green Bamboo is a tastefully decorated Vietnamese restaurant. One of the pioneers of ethnic food at the end of the 1990s, they offer a range of light Southeast Asian dishes. Their long cocktail list offers some of the best drinks in Palermo.

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Kansas

Avenida del Libertador 4625 Tel (011) 4776-4100

Map 5 D2

With neon lighting and modern architecture, American-style Kansas is the place to have a quality burger, a rack of beef and pork ribs, or a vast Texan-sized steak. The restaurant is big and always busy, and it is advisable to arrive early as they do not take reservations.

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Krishna Veggie Lunch

Malabia 1833 Tel (011) 4833-4618

Map 5 D4

Offering Indian food, Krishna Veggie Lunch is the perfect place for those who are tired of eating meat. Choose the spicy pakoras (batter-fried mix of onions and other vegetables), bhajis, vegetable thalis and masala raita (yoghurt mix) for an authentic meal. The rooms are aptly decorated with idols and posters of Indian gods and goddesses.

PALERMO AND BELGRANO La Cabrera

Cabrera 5099 Tel (011) 4831-7002

Map 4 C4

Housed in a building that used to be a general store, La Cabrera is now the area’s trendiest steakhouse. The friendly waiters serve large portions of beef, and the morcilla (blood sausage) accompanied with roasted almonds and goat’s cheese is recommended. The restaurant also has another branch, La Cabrera Norte, located a block away.

PALERMO AND BELGRANO La Cupertina

Cabrera 5296 Tel (011) 4777-3711

Map 4 C4

La Cupertina’s decor is fairly standard for a corner restaurant, but their cheese and onion or meat empanadas (stuffed turnovers), lentil stew with chocolate, and sandwiches are well worth trying. Meals are best digested with red wine spiked with a shot of soda. The flan is recommended for dessert.

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Lucky Luciano Cervino 3943 Tel (011) 4802-1262

Map 5 E3

A bustling neighborhood restaurant, colorfully-decorated Lucky Luciano is owned by two Italian brothers. The restaurant is perfect for meat eaters as it offers pastas with buffalo, lamb, and pork, doused in rich tomato- or cream-based sauces. Their excellent wine list complements the tasty meals. Key to Price Guide see p292 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Me Lleva Brasil

Costa Rica 4488 Tel (011) 4832-4290

Map 5 D4

A place to relax and enjoy a caipirinha (rum and lime cocktail), this restaurant serves authentic Brazilian rice-andbean-based dishes. The delicious empadinhas (shrimp pies) and rissoles (croquettes) are tempting and the seafood banquets are delicious. On some nights, visitors might be lucky enough to see or participate in a samba show.

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Miranda

Costa Rica 5602 Tel (011) 4771-4255

Map 4 C3

Over the last few years parrillas have become quite trendy and Miranda is where many porteños come to feast on lomo (pork tenderloin), chorizo (spicy sausage), and other classics. The steaks are tender and well-prepared, although the prices are slightly on the steeper side for a neighborhood grill.

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Bar Uriarte

Uriarte 1572 Tel (011) 4834-6004

Map 4 C4

Bar Uriarte is a beautifully-designed restaurant with an open kitchen. Most of the cuisine on offer is inspired by fresh Mediterranean cooking. A good option is to start with the stuffed mushrooms and continue with the home-made pastas, or even better, the crisp wood-fired pizzas.

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Christophe

Fitz Roy 1994 Tel (011) 4771-1155

Map 4 C3

Along with an excellent wine collection, this charming French bistro serves creative and contemporary French cuisine. The main course includes non-vegetarian specialties such as rabbit tarragon, liver salad, and vegetarian dishes made from fresh seasonal vegetables.

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Desde el Alma

Honduras 5296 Tel (011) 4831-5812

Map 4 C4

A rustic but romantic place, this is a perfect hideaway from Palermo’s more busy eateries. The menu features slow-cooked Patagonian lamb with pepper sauce and Patagonian girgola mushrooms. The main chef, Lucio, is willing to experiment and even dares to use spices such as ginger in his desserts.

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Komodo

Republica de la India 2899 Tel (011) 4802-8064

Map 5 E3

Komodo’s creative menu complements a great night out in Palermo Chico. The main course includes beef tataki salad, smoked salmon, and classic slow-cooked lamb with mint. The place serves excellent wine as well and has a large stock in its wine cellar.

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Novecento

Báez 199, Las Cañitas. Tel (011) 4778-1900

Map 4 C2

With branches in New York, Punta del Este, and Miami, this modern Argentinian cuisine franchise has won over expatriates and tourists as well as Las Cañitas regulars. The peppered steak is delicious and the sweetbreads come with just the right kind of crunchy edges.

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Olsen

Gorroti 5870 Tel (011) 4776-7677

Map 4 B3

Swiss-managed, Scandinavian-themed, and with an Argentinian chef, Olsen is very much a potpourri of the porteño variety. Visitors should try long-forgotten yet timeless dishes such as corned beef. The vodka menu is the longest in town, and the cocktail waiters can rustle up delicious smoothies.

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Social Paraiso

Honduras 5182 Tel (011) 4831-4556

Map 4 C4

Chef-owner Feerico Simoes was raised on Syrian-Lebanese cuisine, and now serves scintillating eastern Mediterranean delights that are unique in Buenos Aires. Brazilian passion fruit mousse and Szechuan pepper ice cream suggest that there are no bounds to his multinational menu or his creative zeal.

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Lomo

Costa Rica 4661, Palermo Tel (011) 4833-3200

Map 4 C3

Housed in a one-time cheese factory, this restaurant is spacious, with an outdoor area that is decorated with native textiles. The specialty at the Lomo is the beef and its quality is so high here that mere salt is enough to enliven the juices. There are fish dishes and even wild boar recipes to enjoy.

PALERMO AND BELGRANO Sucre

Sucre 676 Tel (011) 4782-9082

Map 4 C4

A temple of modern Argentinian cuisine, Sucre is the place to come to explore everything that the provinces produce, from Andean maize wraps to Patagonian lamb to rib-eye steak to spider crab, though all presented and prepared with a modern twist.

FARTHER AFIELD Il Novo María de Luján

Paseo Victorica 611, Tigre Tel (011) 4731-9613 This warm eatery in Tigre is a friendly country-style restaurant. Apart from serving large portions of salad and meat, the place experiments with spider crab, a specialty from Ushuaia. The minuta (short-order) menu has a delicious range of milanesas (veal cutlets). All the meat served is tender and sinew-free.

THE PAMPAS BAHIA BLANCA Bizkaia

Soles 786 Tel (0291) 452-0191 Colorfully decorated and well located, Bizkaia has strong Basque connections. A wide variety of exquisite fish dishes are on offer for the main course. The place is also well known for its tapas and starters. All the desserts are worth a try.

LA PLATA Don Quijote

Plaza Paso 146 Tel (0221) 483-3653 Delicious food and welcoming staff make this classic neighborhood restaurant well known and loved. Great pastas and excellent grilled meats are served and the place is also known for its seafood. Most of the dishes on the menu are reasonably priced.

MAR DEL PLATA Chichillo

Avenida Martinez de Hoz, cnr 12 de Octubre Tel (0223) 489-6317 A casual seafood place in the old port, Chichillo is very popular among Argentinian holidaymakers. The main highlights are the fried squid rings and the baby squid and hake dishes. There are two floors in Chichillo – downstairs offers canteen-style self-service, while the seating upstairs is attended by waiters.

MAR DEL PLATA Viento en Popa

Avenida Martinez de Hoz 257 Tel (0223) 489-220 This popular restaurant offers outstanding seafood dishes, which include mussels, shrimps, and octopus served in simple preparations – a hint of garlic, a touch of mayonnaise – so the freshness of the original flavors are retained. For richer flavors, try the paellas or cazuelas (seafood casseroles). They are also well known for their salads.

NECOCHEA Taberna Espanola

Calle 89 360 Tel (02262) 525-126 A restaurant with a lovely family atmosphere, the Taberna is a cozy place to eat. It serves delicious seafood dishes. The paella comes with heaps of mussels and not too much saffron, allowing the fish flavors to come through. They also have a good selection of both red and white wines.

PINAMAR El Viejo Lobo

Avenida del Mar, cnr Bunge Tel (02254) 483-218 Acclaimed for their seafood dishes, this spacious restaurant offers a stylish, contemporary dining experience. The main highlights are its gambas al ajillo (prawns in garlic) or pez lenguado con alcaparras (flatfish in browned butter with caper sauce). There are excellent sea views from the terrace.

SAN ANTONIO DE ARECO Almacen de Ramos Generales

Zapiola 143 Tel (02326) 456-376 The asado (open air barbecue) is popular here and diners should ask for beef cuts from the vacio (flank), which can be tastier than the fillet and rump. Try the conejo al verdeo (rabbit in spring onions), pato encebollado (duck with onions), or milanesas (cutlet of veal or chicken). Desserts include home-made pastelitos (wraps) and figs in syrup.

SAN ANTONIO DE ARECO Puesto la Lechuza

Sdo Sombra, cnr Bolivia Tel (02326) 454-542 Formerly a pulpería (gaucho saloon and grocery store), this lovely old place serves wonderful picadas (large platters of cheese, salami, olives, and peppers in oil) and barbecued meats that are grilled to perfection. The morcilla (blood sausage) and the excellent chorizos (spicy sausages) are recommended.

SANTA ROSA Club Espanol

Hilario Lagos 237 Tel (02954) 423-935 It is worth coming here just to soak up the atmosphere of the old colonial days when criollos of Spanish descent and newly-arrived immigrants met to drink and chat over a dry manzanilla sherry. The sherry is still available and the food is great, especially the milanesas, the roast chicken dishes, and the flan.

TANDIL Epoca de Quesos

San Martin, cnr 14 de Julio Tel (02293) 448-750 Built in 1860, this restaurant is often visited by people who just want to see the beautiful building. There is an impressive range of salamis on offer as well as delicious local cheeses. They can be sampled on site or taken away. Ask for a picada (pre-meal platter served in small proportions) if you want to try a morsel of everything.

VILLA GESELL El Estribo

Avenida 3, cnr Paseo Tel (02255) 460-234 A much-loved parrilla, this place specializes in steak, chicken, and the best kind of offal – salted and grilled until crunchy – but there is plenty to choose from the varied menu, which includes lomo (pork tenderloin) in a delicious red wine sauce and ensaladas (salads) in abundance; the Don Pedro dessert must be tried. Key to Price Guide see p292 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

ARGENTINIAN MESOPOTAMIA

COLÓN La Estancia

Urquiza 158 Tel (03447) 424-687 Warm and atmospheric, La Estancia has brick archways, creaking wooden floorboards, and walls decorated with ranch tools and wild boar and deer trophies collected from hunts in the nearby Parque Nacional El Palmar (see p165). The traditional meat-dominated cuisine is first-rate and the staff are welcoming and friendly.

CORRIENTES La Morocha

Salta esq F J de la Quintana Tel (03783) 438-699 Located in the heart of Corrientes’s historical barrio, this lovely lime-painted bistro sits on a corner of Plaza 25 de Mayo and is housed within a colonial residence that once belonged to a city governor. The short menu includes home-made pastas, fresh fish, and red meat dishes.

GUALEGUAYCHÚ La Cascada

Avenida Costanera s/n Tel (03446) 432-451 Located on the coastal avenue near the town center, this family-oriented parrilla has great atmosphere. Diners can see their beefsteaks being barbecued on the huge open grill. Crisp pizzas are also served, some with daring river fish toppings. Parents can relax in the wine-tasting salon while the kids keep busy in the play area.

MERCEDES El Quincho

Avenida San Martín 1240 Tel (03773) 420-314 Contained within an old colonial house, El Quincho is Mercedes’s best dining option. Much of the original architecture remains, including high ceilings, towering doors, and a mosaic-floored entranceway. The menu is perhaps less interesting – ubiquitous fish and beef dominate – but dishes are well-prepared and filling.

PARANÁ Ristorante Giovanni

Urquiza 1047 Tel (0343) 423-0527 One block from Paraná’s central plaza, Giovanni offers decent food at a prime location. The menu is extensive and includes pizza, pasta, and beef staples, although the wild fish is the chef’s specialty and there are almost a dozen surubí (a type of river fish) dishes to choose from. Waiters are friendly, but not very quick.

PUERTO IGUAZÚ El Gallo Negro

Avenida Victoria Aguirre 773 Tel (03757) 422-165 A good spot for a long, lazy lunch, El Gallo Negro’s best feature is its garden terrace, dotted with rustic wooden benches dressed in crisp white tablecloths and formally arranged tableware. On the menu, the mains are fairly standard, but the tropical desserts are divine.

PUERTO IGUAZÚ La Rueda

Avenida Córdoba 28 Tel (03757) 422-531 A favorite with Iguazú’s well-heeled residents, La Rueda combines upscale dining with a bustling atmosphere and a subtropical-inspired menu and decor. Native wood furniture abounds and the roof is thatched with tacuara bamboo. The main menu includes mouth-watering river fish options as well as standard parrilla fare.

PUERTO IGUAZÚ Aqva

Avenida Córdoba, esq Carlos Thays Tel (03757) 422-064 Quiet and softly-lit, Aqva is ideal for romantic evenings. The decor features native woods and stone, and the menu includes caviar starters and exquisite pastas. There is an impressive wine list, and welcome extras include freshlybaked bread. It has excellent service with attentive waiters regularly topping up diners’ glasses.

ROSARIO Deck del Náutico

Club Náutico de Rosario, Comunidad Floral de Navarra & 104 Tel (0341) 426-3352 Housed within Rosario’s yacht club, Deck del Náutico is a romantic dining spot with stylish decor and an intimate, candlelit terrace that overlooks Río Paraná. Its menu prioritizes river fish options including the surubí and dorado. It serves seafood and parrilla staples as well.

ROSARIO Ristorante Da Vinci

España 777 Tel (0341) 447-7447 Simple pasta dishes, prepared using fresh ingredients and based on regional recipes from Italy, are the house specialty at this city-center eatery. The place also offers some of the best desserts in town. Representations of the namesake maestro’s work ornament the walls. The service is quick and the atmosphere relaxed.

SANTA FE Resto España

Avenida San Martín 2644 Tel (0342) 400-8834 This traditional eatery has belonged to the same family of Spanish descent for over 30 years. Housed in a century-old building, its interior is one of high ceilings, colonnades, stained-glass windows, and wall paintings. A varied menu features regional specialties, and Spanish paella and seafood platters.

CÓRDOBA AND THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST CACHI Comedor El Aujero

Ruis de los Llanos s/n Tel (03868) 1563-8036 A basic, canteen-like restaurant with blacksmiths’ tools on the walls, Comedor El Aujero is the archetypal local eatery. Gauchos from the surrounding area visit this restaurant for barbecued beef and pork and stuffed red peppers, which they wash down with glasses of house wine.

CAFAYATE El Rancho

Toscano 4 Tel (03868) 421-256 Despite the abundance of vineyards, Cafayate is short on good restaurants. El Rancho, however, is consistently good for local corn-based dishes such as humitas (steamed corn wraps) and tamales (corn wraps stuffed with meat) and does wonderful grilled goat. Desserts include regional specialities such as white cheese with fruit conserves.

CÓRDOBA La Yaya

Independencia 468 Tel (0351) 411-5487 This popular neighborhood eatery specializes in comida de campo (country cooking). Its range of tasty dishes includes locro criollo (pork and bean stew), humita en cazuela (corn wrap in a stew), and bondiola de cerdo dorada al romero con puré de manzanas (pork with rosemary and applesauce).

COSQUIN Parrilla Saint Jean

San Martín 200 Tel (03541) 451-059 Undoubtedly the best steakhouse in town, Parrilla Saint Jean is popular with the locals. The restaurant is mainly known for its exceptionally good grilled meats and hearty wines. The chorizo (spicy sausage) especially is tender and full of flavor. The place is always busy so it is best to reserve a table.

LA CUMBRE La Casona del Toboso

Belgrano 349 Tel (03548) 451-436 Housed in a little cottage, La Casona del Toboso is La Cumbre’s best known restaurant. Popular with the locals, it is famous for its trout, fresh from the region’s rivers and served with mushroom sauce, and excellent goat. They also serve good grills and pastas with ingredients sourced from nearby cooperatives.

MOLINOS Estancia Colomé

Ruta Provincial 53, Km 20 Tel (0387) 494-044 Delicate red meat and fish dishes are on offer at this beautiful and refined restaurant, which gets most of its vegetables from the estate’s own organic kitchen gardens. The wine list is excellent and it is worth trying the bodega’s own top vintages. There are delightful views of the vineyards and across to the Nevada de Cachi.

SALTA El Solar del Convento

Caseros 444 Tel (0387) 421-5124 Salta is generally excellent for Andean food and empanadas (stuffed turnovers), but this restaurant is the best place to come for a huge steak. They also offer a complimentary glass of champagne. The restaurant is spacious and the walls are decorated with local artworks, including handwoven saddle blankets and animal masks.

SALTA Jose Balcance

Mitre, corner Necochea Tel (0387) 421-1628 An absolute must-visit for anyone coming to Salta, Jose Balcance has chefs who take the best ingredients out of the Andean larder and turn them into innovative and delicious concoctions. Stand-out meals include llama carpaccio (thinly-sliced raw meat), llama with tuna (prickly pear) sauce, and trout with butter and ginger.

SAN MIGUEL DE TUCUMÁN El Fondo

San Martín 846 Tel (0381) 422-2161 One of the best parrillas in town, famous for their empanadas, which in this region are often slightly spicy as well as sweet, and steaming bowls of locro (stew). There is a salad bar and an excellent wine list which includes the Cabernet-Malbec-Merlot blend. There is also live music during the weekends.

SAN SALVADOR DE JUJUY Manos Jujenas

Senador Perez 222 Tel (0388) 15682-2087 A small eatery decorated with local crafts and costumes, Manos Jujenas has soft Andean music playing in the background. The restaurant is divided over two levels and serves excellent tamales, humitas, and empanadas. There is also live music offered occasionally.

VILLA GENERAL BELGRANO Viejo Munich

Avenida San Martín 362 Tel (03546) 463-122 An Alpine-looking restaurant, this used to be the tavern of choice for survivors of the German battleship Graf Spee which sank off the coast of Uruguay in 1939 (see p183). It now keeps up the Teutonic theme with nine types of beer, brewed on site, as well as sauerkraut, German wurst, and cheeses. Key to Price Guide see p292 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

CUYO AND THE WINE COUNTRY GODOY CRUZ 1884

Belgrano 1188 Tel (0261) 424-3336 Argentina’s famous chef, Francis Mallman, created this prestigious restaurant in the beautiful surroundings of Bodegas Escorihuela (see p211). Focusing on fresh regional ingredients such as baby goat and lamb, 1884 offers an excellent Patagonian-style menu. It also has a premium regional wine list.

LUJÁN DE CUYO Ruca Malén

Ruta Nacional 7, Km 1059 Tel (0261) 410-6214 Ruca Malén is known for fine five-course meals, usually beef-based but with alternative entrées such as chicken or fish, paired with generous samples of premium red and white. Reservations are necessary for lunch, served either in the dining room or on a shaded terrace, normally as part of tours and tastings at its namesake bodega.

LUJÁN DE CUYO Cavas Wine Lodge

Costaflores s/n Tel (0261) 410-6927 A romantic candlelit restaurant in a luxury vineyard spa-hotel (see p282), Cavas Wine Lodge offers panoramic views of the Andes. The menu offers beef, trout, and the occasional seafood item, complemented by grilled fresh vegetables. It has a wide selection of regional wines. This place is open to non-guests by reservation only.

MALARGÜE El Bodegón de María

Rufino Ortega and Villegas Tel (02627) 471-655 Malargüe is no gourmet mecca, but this unpretentious restaurant delivers quality home-style Italo-Argentinian cooking. The pasta, pizza, beef, and trout are all worthwhile, but the light-crusted caprese empanadas are the best items on the menu. It has low-key but engaging rural decor, with pleasant service.

MENDOZA Vegetalia

Alem 43 Tel (0261) 1550-13484 A vegetarian locale, Vegetalia is frequented by business people for lunch in particular. There are light-crusted empanadas offered in what is undoubtedly the city’s freshest buffet, along with various healthy vegetable juices. A takeaway is worth considering as the place is cramped with too many seats placed close together.

MENDOZA El Gato Que Pesca

Mitre 1538, Chacras de Coria Tel (0261) 496-0320 A family-run restaurant, El Gato Que Pesca is easily comparable to the more pricey and sophisticated eateries in Chacras, Mendoza’s “gourmet ghetto” area. Specialties include varied crêpes and appetizers, but the menu changes frequently. The inviting decor includes antique household items and the owner’s startlingly original paintings.

MENDOZA Facundo

Sarmiento 641 Tel (0261) 420-2866 A well-established grill, the bright and cheerful Facundo has an elaborate salad bar which also offers international dishes such as stuffed chicken breast with mustard sauce. A mixed appetizer plate includes varied cheeses and cold cuts. A restaurant more for friends than romantic diners.

MENDOZA Karma

Italia 6055, Chacras de Coria Tel (0261) 496-1731 A novelty for Mendoza which has few Indian restaurants, Karma in part owes its origins to Brad Pitt and Indian-born Tibetan, Karma Apo Tsang, who came to Cuyo for the filming of Seven Years in Tibet. Dishes such as samosas (deepfried stuffed pastry) and mutton masala are delicious but the spice level has been calibrated to Argentinian palates.

MENDOZA La Albahaca

Espejo 659 Tel (0261) 444-2127 La Albahaca has an excellent mid-range Italo-Argentinian menu, which includes antipasti, risotto, trout, and seafood ravioli. The visual presentation is outstanding and the service assiduous, but the dining room, in a converted private residence, seems a little cramped. Unfortunately, the desserts are not as delicious as the main dishes.

MENDOZA La Marchigiana

Patricias Mendocinas 1550 Tel (0261) 423-0751 Known to everybody in town, this traditional elite Italian restaurant offers great home-made pastas, particularly lasagna, which is the definite star on the menu. They also serve rice, baked fish, and grilled meat, and the wine list is good as well. Despite the imposing design, it is unpretentious with gracious service.

MENDOZA La Sal

Belgrano 1069 Tel (0261) 420-4322 Possibly Mendoza’s most sophisticated fusion restaurant, La Sal offers an exclusive dining experience. The decor follows a wicker theme. Their seasonally-changing menu includes items such as goat stew with beans, and sushi has recently been added to their list.

MENDOZA La Tasca de Plaza España

Montevideo 117 Tel (0261) 423-3466 An informal Spanish restaurant, La Tasca’s bright decor is complemented by frequently changing art exhibitions. Along with tapas, the place also serves traditional dishes such as Spanish omelet, seafood items including scallops and razor clams, and a casserole of zucchini, onions, and peppers in cheese sauce.

MENDOZA Azafrán

Sarmiento 765 Tel (0261) 429-4200 With casual decor consisting of simple wooden tables and chairs, Azafrán is a pleasant place to dine. It has a pan-Argentinian menu that places more of an emphasis on game dishes, such as wild boar, and uses more herbs and spices in its cooking than most Argentinian restaurants.

MENDOZA Mar y Monte

Darragueira 648, Chacras de Coria Tel (0261) 496-5164 Literally “Sea and Sierra,” Mar y Monte merges traditions of Chile’s diverse Pacific fish and seafood selection with regional versions of Argentinian standards, including wild game dishes such as vizcacha (type of rodent). It has a spacious patio ideal for outdoor dining. It also has a downtown Mendoza branch.

MENDOZA Praga

Leonidas Aguirre 413 Tel (0261) 425-9585 This restaurant has attractive dining rooms with high ceilings and open-air seating facing a small park. The menu includes quality seafood, especially salmon and trout, plus appetizers such as octopus cooked in a SpanishMediterranean style. They have a large wine list consisting mainly of white wines.

MENDOZA Francesco

Chile 1268 Tel (0261) 425-3912 An upmarket, formal Italian restaurant with an extensive menu, Francesco is under the same ownership as La Marchigiana (see p299). Specialties include pastas and risotto, as well as fish and red meat dishes. The restaurant also has a huge wine selection. It is advisable to make reservations.

SAN AGUSTÍN DEL VALLE FÉRTIL Rinco’s Restó

Rivadavia s/n In an area where the dining experience lags well behind the spectacular scenery, Rinco’s Resto has raised the standard of Italo-Argentinian food and also created a warm, inviting ambience in which to dine. The menu’s highlights are pastas and meats. It also stocks some good wines.

SAN JUAN Club Sirio Libanés

Entre Ríos 33 Sur Tel (0264) 422-3841 In a city with a strong Middle Eastern presence, Club Sirio Libanés is a traditional eastern Mediterranean restaurant with Moorish architecture. The highlights of the diverse buffet and à la carte menu include savory lamb empanadas (stuffed turnovers) with a touch of lemon, falafel, and stuffed grape leaves. The service is efficient and formal.

SAN JUAN De Sánchez

Rivadavia 61 Oeste Tel (0264) 420-3670 A casual restaurant, De Sánchez offers more than just regional cuisines. Light dishes with visual flair include sesame chicken skewers, supplemented by items such as pork loin with plum sauce. The place also sells magazines, books, and CDs, and Argentinian images decorate the walls.

SAN JUAN Maloca

Del Bono 321 Tel (0264) 435-2503 Located in the outskirts of the city in a residential neighborhood, Maloca showcases Latin American food from around the continent, including Mexican tacos and Venezuelan arepas (corn bread) rarely found in Argentinian provincial cities. The place has a casual atmosphere but with separate dining areas that give reasonable privacy.

SAN LUIS Serafina

San Martín 510 Tel (02652) 424-977 Serafina is the most diverse and sophisticated restaurant in this small provincial capital. Specializing in grilled meats, most notably mutton, and pastas, they have a long menu and wine list. The dining room, however, is rather cluttered with too many tables placed close together.

SAN RAFAEL El Restauro

Comandante Salas and Day Tel (02627) 445-482 A well-located restaurant, El Restauro is a step above the others in town for its regional menu of pasta, lamb, pork, and poultry cooked in a gaucho wok. In addition to an ample wine list, it offers local brews of pale ale, amber, and stout. The restaurant is housed in a handsome historic building with high ceilings and other period features.

TUNUYÁN Killka

Finca La Pampa, Los Arboles Tel (02622) 429-570 Part of the stunning Bodega Salentein (see p282), Killka is mainly patronized before or after tours and wine tasting. This ultramodern place serves a series of fixed-price lunches with trout and lamb as the specialties. The seating offers views of the vineyards and looming Andes. À la carte dishes can be adapted for vegetarians. Key to Price Guide see p292 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

PATAGONIA BARILOCHE El Mundo

Mitre 759 Tel (02944) 423-461 When pro-skier Hugo Francioni quit the slopes in 1992, he converted his house into this upbeat pizzeria. Celebrities, including Jane Fonda and footballer Carlos Tévez, have dropped by since – signed portraits hang as proof from the walls – tempted by over 100 varieties of pizza. Toppings include salmon and wild boar.

BARILOCHE El Boliche de Alberto

Villagras 347 Tel (02944) 431-433 Sizzling, juicy steaks are the order of the day at this classic, family-owned parrilla. Owner Alberto’s sons, daughters, and their cousins barbecue the beef on the huge flame grill or wait at the tables. The menus come cloaked in cowhide, and the food is authentic and reasonably priced.

BARILOCHE Jau-Ja

Quaglia 366 Tel (02944) 422-952 This delightful, popular eatery excels in Lake District specialties, from trout and salmon to Patagonian lamb and venison. The decor is rustic and pleasing, the service quick and genuinely cheerful, and the background resounds with the laughter and chatter of fellow diners.

BARILOCHE Kandahar

20 de Febrero 698 Tel (02944) 424-702 It is well worth visiting Kandahar, where the delightfully eclectic decor is a mixture of lime-green walls, velvet drapes, chaises longues, and hanging mannequins. The largely organic menu is limited to eight items, each a traditional Patagonian specialty served with a modern and creative twist.

COMODORO RIVADAVIA Puerto Cangrejo

Avenida Costanera 1051 Tel (0297) 444-4590 Located in Comodoro Rivadavia’s port area, Puerto Cangrejo is the city’s most traditional restaurant serving some reputable seafood and offering spectacular ocean views. The king-crab cocktail starters are good, as are the shellfish. It is a very popular place and diners should arrive early on weekends or reserve in advance.

EL BOLSÓN Patio Venzano

Sarmiento & Hube Owner Osvaldo built the cypress-wood cabin that houses this romantic little restaurant. The family prepares and serves the meals, dishing up delicious house specialties including fresh trout, smoked or grilled, home-made pastas, and pancakes – the latter big enough to share between two.

EL CALAFATE El Puesto

Gobernador Moyano & 9 de Julio Tel (02902) 491-620 This historical gem was built by an estancia owner in 1940 as an inn for his gaucho workers. Today a bijou family-run restaurant, it serves salmon and wild trout with other regional specialities, each prepared in the original clay oven. It is advisable to arrive early on weekends or to reserve a table in advance.

EL CALAFATE La Tablita

Coronel Rosales 28 Tel (02902) 491-065 In business for over 30 years, this no-frills parrilla is a big favorite with local non-vegetarians. Located a short hike away from the town center, and reached by crossing a small bridge over Arroyo Calafate, it serves tender spitroasted lamb, huge beefsteaks, and generous salads, all at great prices.

EL CALAFATE Pura Vida

Avenida del Libertador General San Martín 1876 Tel (02902) 493-356 Pura Vida is all about relaxed dining, with lakeside views and stylish, homely decor that includes pastel-colored walls and abstract art. The menu offers home-made pastas, stews, and excellent vegetarian dishes, all exquisitely prepared and presented. Pura Vida is just a ten-minute walk from the town center.

EL CALAFATE Casimiro Biguá

Avenida del Libertador General San Martín 963 Tel (02902) 492-590 This upmarket parrilla and wine bar on El Calafate’s main street hums with the chatter of satisfied diners. Delectable menu items include king crab, wild boar, and other red meats, prepared according to traditional recipes. Cuban cigars are a post-meal option, to be enjoyed with a quality Italian coffee.

EL CHALTÉN El Bodegón

Avenida San Martín s/n Tel (02962) 493-109 This microbrewery is the ideal spot to relax after a hard day’s trekking. The ample menu features pizzas, pastas, soups, and the house specialty is a deliciously spicy beef locro (stew), ideally washed down with a high quality draught pilsner or a malty Bock beer. It is a great place to meet other travelers.

EL CHALTÉN Estepa

Cerro Solo, esq Antonio Rojo Tel (02962) 493-069 A little jewel of a restaurant, Estepa is known for its Patagonian lamb but serves freshwater fish, beef, pizza, and pasta options as well. The atmosphere is snug and cabin-like, and the service is charming. The extras include a varied vegetarian menu and live bossa nova every other Saturday.

ESQUEL Casa Grande

Roca 441 Tel (02945) 15-469-712 Cozy and stylish, Casa Grande is a great choice for dining couples and small groups. Set within a family house that dates from 1946, it has some lovely design touches, including light fittings carved from lenga wood. The chef’s specialty is succulent, slow-roasted Patagonian lamb.

ESQUEL Don Chiquino

Avenida Ameghino 1641 Tel (02945) 450-035 The star attraction at this pasta-house is owner, Tito Frede. Storyteller, comedian, and magician, Tito works the floor performing impromptu magic tricks for diners – the “salt trick” is a favorite – while regaling them with stories from his family’s history. The pasta is also first-rate.

GAIMAN La Vieja Cuadra

M D Jones 418 Tel (02965) 15-682-352 Homely and inviting, La Vieja Cuadra is the perfect place to relax after a day braving the Patagonian elements. It has a dimly-lit, cavern-like interior characterized by bare-brick archways and walls painted in soft hues. The food is excellent, especially the home-made pastas, which are the chef’s specialty.

PUERTO MADRYN Mariscos del Atlántico

Club Náutico, Avenida Rawson 288 Tel (02965) 15-552-500 Conjure up an image of an ideal fisherman’s restaurant and it would be exactly like the family-run Mariscos del Atlántico where the staff are friendly and the food first-rate. It has ocean views, clapboard walls, and nets hung from the rafters. Try the fresh clams, hand-picked by the male family members on dawn dives in Golfo Nuevo.

PUERTO MADRYN Vernardino Club del Mar

Boulevard Brown 860 Tel (02965) 474-289 On the beach and close to the sea, Vernardino is an ideal lunch or dinner spot. Young, amiable staff ferry regional platters to and from the dining area, which includes an outside terrace with uninterrupted ocean views. There is a kids’ play area too, making this a great spot for families.

PUERTO MADRYN Plácido

Avenida Roca 506 Tel (02965) 455-991 To eat at Plácido is to dine in style, with romantic ocean views, super-smooth service, and jazz or bossa nova playing in the background. The extensive menu has everything from seafood to wild meats and pastas. The outstanding wine list features various vintages, and the very pricey Dom Perignon champagne.

SAN MARTÍN DE LOS ANDES Ku

Avenida San Martín 1053 Tel (02972) 427-039 Snug, rustic, and cabin-like, Ku first opened three decades ago and is now a mainstay of San Martín’s culinary scene. The place serves the most delicious desserts in town. Both the warm woody decor and the hearty cuisine, mainly consisting of wild meats, make this an ideal eatery during the ski season.

SAN MARTÍN DE LOS ANDES La Reserva

Belgrano 940 Tel (02972) 428-734 Stylish and elegant, La Reserva’s philosophy is “slow food.” Prepared in a leisurely fashion, elaborate dishes are sourced from local ingredients and specialties include wild boar and trout. The place is dimly-lit and perfect for a romantic evening. There is also an outside terrace for alfresco meals.

SAN MARTÍN DE LOS ANDES La Tasca

M Moreno 866 Tel (02972) 428-663 Family-run La Tasca is part-restaurant and part-treasure trove. Century-old wine casks sit atop the main bar, antique iron stoves provide heating, and one of the cash tills dates from 1916. There is also delicious food on offer, including trout, venison, and tasty home-made pastas, which are also the house specialties.

VIEDMA Capriasca

Alvaro Barros 685 Tel (02920) 426-754 A beautifully-renovated, century-old corner house in Viedma’s city center, Capriasca boasts exquisite architectural detail and highly recommendable regional cuisine, including freshwater fish and shellfish specialities. Friendly service complements an excellent dining experience.

VILLA LA ANGOSTURA Tinto Bistro

Boulevard Nahuel Huapi 34 Tel (02944) 494-924 Located in the center of town, Tinto Bistro attracts a chic crowd with a menu that leans towards Eastern and Middle Eastern cuisines and includes curries, fish dishes, and salads. The wine list has over 150 wines, with an array of international labels. On Thursdays, after 1am, the restaurant is transformed into a bar with a DJ. Key to Price Guide see p292 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

TIERRA DEL FUEGO AND ANTARCTICA RÍO GRANDE Sonora

Perito Moreno 705 Tel (02964) 423-102 Contained within a charming little corner house, this family-run pizzeria serves over 30 different varieties of pizzas. Cheaply-priced burgers and tapas options – best shared between a few people – are also on the menu, and there is bottled Guinness offered alongside the usual Argentinian beers.

RÍO GRANDE La Nueva Piamontesa

Belgrano 402 Tel (02964) 423-620 This traditional parrilla provides a perfect respite from the chilly winds blowing over from the South Atlantic. The menu features filling beefsteak staples and side dishes, and regional specialities including fish and shellfish. Visitors must be prepared to wait at least half an hour for their food as the service is amiable, but unhurried.

RÍO GRANDE Posada de los Sauces

Elcano 839 Tel (02964) 430-868 Río Grande’s best dining option, Posada de los Sauces is housed in a namesake inn and offers meat, fish, and pasta mains. The service is prompt and polite, but the best thing about dining here is the opportunity to retire afterwards to the comfortable upstairs bar for post-prandial drinks and chatter.

USHUAIA Che, Potito Avenida San Martín 471 Tel (02901) 435-252

Portraits of Ernesto Che Guevara, Cuban flags, and Leftist political slogans adorn the walls of this dimly-lit, smoky throwback to 1960s post-revolution Cuba. There is no Caribbean fare on the menu, but the strictly regional platter and tasty pizzas are delicious alternatives. Perfect for late diners, Che, Potito stays opens past midnight.

USHUAIA Moustacchio

Avenida San Martín 298 Tel (02901) 423-308 For nearly 40 years, this family-run parrilla has served traditional Argentinian meats, including barbecued beefsteak and Patagonian lamb, which diners can watch being spit-roasted over an open fire on the restaurant’s main floor. Moustacchio has a long wine list and food prices are reasonable.

USHUAIA Tía Elvira

Avenida Maipú 349 Tel (02901) 424-725 Housed within a pretty seafront building opposite the port area and run by a family of German-descent, Tía Elvira has uncomplicated seafood specialties and some tasty German-inspired desserts, including a very good home-made apple strudel. For better ocean views, ask for a table upstairs.

USHUAIA La Cantina Fueguina de Freddy

Avenida San Martín 326 Tel (02901) 421-887 The live king crabs in the fish tank at the entrance to this friendly, family-run cantina give a good indication of what is on the menu – a seafood bonanza of crab, sea bass, and shellfish specialties. Visitors can wash down their meal with a Patagonian wine or locally-brewed beer.

USHUAIA Tante Nina

Gobernador Godoy 15 Tel (02901) 432-444 Housed in a smart second-floor location off Ushuaia’s coastal avenue, Tante Nina is an upscale seafood restaurant run by a family of chefs. The house specialties include black sea bass and mussels. Broad windows offer fantastic views of Canal Beagle and the service is friendly and professional .

USHUAIA Volver

Avenida Maipú 37 Tel (02901) 423-977 Atmospheric Volver is a throwback to Ushuaia’s pioneer past, with wooden floorboards, a roaring open fireplace, fishing nets that hang from the ceiling, and old pots and pans on the walls. The lauded food is just as traditional, with delicious king crab and lamb specialties. It is better to arrive early at this popular eatery.

USHUAIA Kaupé

Roca 470 Tel (02901) 422-704 A short walk up an incline from the city center, Kaupé is a sophisticated restaurant and wine bar. Its gourmet cuisine emphasizes regional ingredients, including wild meats and scallops. The wine list is impressive and views across the colorful rooftops to the bay and Canal Beagle are delightful.

USHUAIA Le Martial

Las Hayas Resort Hotel, Avenida Luis Fernando Martial 1650 Tel (02901) 430-710 Housed in the luxurious Las Hayas Resort Hotel (see p287), Le Martial is Ushuaia’s most elegant eatery, with wine-red walls, superior furnishings, and beautifully executed cuisine, including mouth-watering delicacies such as baby sea bass. Views of the bay and Canal Beagle are stunning and the wine list is the best in town.

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The glittering interiors of Galerías Pacífico, Buenos Aires (see p91)

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SPECIALIST STORES %8-+1)41;<;<7:-;<0)<;-44 01/09=)41

TAXES AND REFUNDS Global Refund Paraguay 755, 8° Piso, C1057AAI Capital Federal, Buenos Aires. City Map 3 E4. Tel (011) 52381970. www.globalrefund.com

SHOPPING MALLS AND BOUTIQUES Bensimon www.bensimon.com.ar The wine cellar of Bodega Salentein in Mendoza (see pp210–11)

BODEGAS AND CHACRAS

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El Palacio Mitre 37/ Caseros 660, Salta. Tel (0387) 422-8008.

Laura Driz Patio Olmos, Local 220, ler Nivel, Avenida Boulevard San Juan, Córdoba. Tel (0351) 5704-220.

Ricky Sarkany www.rickysarkany.com

SPECIALIST STORES Cardon www.cardon.com.ar

BODEGAS AND CHACRAS Bodega La Rural Monte Caseros 2625, Coquimbito, Maipú, Mendoza. Tel (0800) 666-5999. www.larural.com

Bodega Salentein Ruta 89 s/n, Los Arboles, Tunuyán, Mendoza. Tel (02622) 429-000. www.bodegasalentein. com

Bodega y Cavas de Weinert Ave San Martín 5923 (M5505), Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza. Tel (0261) 4960-409. www.bodegaweinert.com

Graffigna Wines Colon 1342 norte, Desamparados, San Juan. Tel (0264) 421-4227. www.graffignawines.com

O. Fournier Calle de los Indios s/n, La Consulta, Mendoza. Tel (02622) 451-579. www.ofournier.com Purmamarca’s crafts market, Quebrada de Humahuaca (see pp196–200)

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*36+%1)7'%2&)&39+,8*631 8-'/)8%+)2'-)736(-6)'80= *63178%(-917 8%2(%6(8-'/)8 46-')7%6) ? &98'%2 '378%719',%7 )74)'-%00=;,)2-8-7%'0%7, &)8;))283473'')68)%17 6+)28-2-%27%6):)6= 4%77-32%8)%&398)59)786-%2 743687)74)'-%00= ,367)6%'-2+%2(4303%6 6%'-2+-7%07343490%6%2( 8,) 6+)28-2-%26392(3*8,) $360(%00=,%14-327,-4 8%/)740%')-2C6(3&% 463:-2')):)6=%=

Club Del Vino, a popular nightclub in Palermo

SPECTATOR SPORTS BARS AND NIGHTCLUBS 6+)28-2%774368778%(-917 %6)23883&)1-77)(4%68 *6318,)*%139732)7-2 9)237 -6)78,)6)%6)7): )6%03987-()8,)'%4-8%08,%8 %6);368,:-7-8-2+)74)'-%00= ;,)2% 1%8',3*

73'')6-7&)-2+40%=)( &)8;))28;3-678-:-7-32 6-:%07!,)43490%61%8',)7 ;368,;%8',-2+%6)32)7 &)8;))2 Newell’s Old Boys %2( Rosario Central!-'/)87

6+)28-2-%2'-8-)7%6)*%1397 *368,)-62-+,80-*)%2(:-7-8367 '%2)2.3=2-+,87398 928-0 7926-7)21378'-8-)78,)6) %6),%44=,3967*63183 41%08,39+,&%67%2(49&7 +)8&97=%*8)6 41;,-0) '09&7*-0094*631%6392(%1 32;%6(7%2(78%=34)2928-0 (%;29)237 -6)7,%78,) 0-:)0-)782-+,80-*) '037)0=*3003;)(&=37%6-3

A polo match at the Polo Argentine Open Championship, Buenos Aires

28,)7911)6&%67%2('09&7 -2'3%78%06)7368779',%7%6 ()00%8%%2(-2%1%6%6) *-00)(;-8,=392+:%'%8-32)67 CLASSICAL MUSIC AND DANCE 3:)673*'0%77-'%0197-' )2.3=%2)<8)27-:)'%0)2(%6 ;-8,9)237 -6)7&3%78-2+ 8,)1378'32')68:)29)7 -2'09(-2+ !)%86330C2 !,)6)%6):)29)7-2 38,)6'-8-)7%7;)00-2'09(-2+ Teatro El Círculo%2(Teatro Lavarden-237%6-3%2( Teatro Municipal Colón-2%6 ()00%8%97-'*)78-:%078%/) 40%')8,639+,8,)=)%60)( &=8,))78-:%028)62%'-32%0 ()D7-'%0@7-'%-2"7,9%-% 8,)66)'311)2()(*)78-:%07 %6)8,)32'-)6837)2)0 3759)-29)237-6)7 463:-2')D7-'%0@7-'%436 037%1-237()0#-23-2 )2(3>%;,)6)6)'-8%07%6) +-:)2-28,)%81374,)6-' %2(',96',)73* )2(3>%7;-2)6)+-327

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THEATER AND FILM

Poster advertising bands at a music festival, Buenos Aires

238,)61%.36%886%'8-32-7 6+)28-2%7137846%'8-')( '0%77-'%0(%2')*361&%00)8 90-33''%%78%64)6*361)6 ,%71%()6+)28-2-%2&%00)8 43490%6;-8,8,)1%77)7 8,639+,,-7'314%2=%00)8 6+)28-23!,)'314%2= 839678,)'39286=*6)59)280= %2(-7/23;2*3678%+-2+ 78922-2+4)6*361%2')7 FOLKLORIC MUSIC %-20=*392(-26+)28-2%7 -28)6-367*30/036-'197-'-7 137843490%6-28,)463:-2') 3* %08%2-872%1)7%/) '%4-8%0'-8=8,)6)%6)7):)6%0 6)78%96%2878,%83**)6(-22)6 %2(7,3;4%'/%+)7136) %98,)28-')<4)6-)2')-7 3**)6)(-2 71%00'09&7 8,%8,378-2*361%0*30/197-' +%8,)6-2+7;,)6):-7-8367'%2 &6-2+8,)-63;2-278691)287 !,)7)'09&7'%2&)*392( -283;27%'63778,)'39286= )74)'-%00=-2 %08%!,) )78-:%0%'-32%0()30/036) 3759B28,)&-++)78*30/036-' *)78-:%0-26+)28-2%-7,)0( -2C6(3&%463:-2')%2( %886%'878,)'6)%13**30/036-' 8%0)28)(4)6*361)67

!,)&-++)78'32')286%8-323* 8,)%8)67-28,)'39286=-7 *392(-29)237 -6)7&98 38,)6'-8-)779',%737%6-3 )2(3>%%2(C6(3&%%073 ,%:)-14368%28:)29)7;-8, 6)+90%64)6*361%2')7 96-2+ 7911)60%6+)'314%2-)7-2 9)237 -6)77;-8',03'%8-32 83%6()00%8%;,)6)8,) Teatro Auditorium78%+)7 +6%2(463(9'8-327 6+)28-2%,%7-873;2 8,6-:-2+*-01-2(9786= !,)6)%6)'-2)1% ,%007-2137883;27%2( 13()621908-40)<)7-2'-8-)7 8,)&-++)78',%-2&)-2+ Cinemark 68,397)'-2)1%7 79',%7Cosmos796:-:)-2 9)237 -6)7%2(37%6-37 7'6))2-2+7-2'09()300=;33( %2( 6+)28-2-%213:-)7;-8, %71%88)6-2+3*;360('-2)1% %6()00%8%7)78-:%0 28)62%'-32%0()-2)()%6 ()00%8%%2(8,))78-:%0 28)62%'-32%0()-2) 2()4)2(-)28)-28,)'%4-8%0 %6)8;33*8,)1378-14368%28 *-01*)78-:%07-26+)28-2% CONTEMPORARY MUSIC

DIRECTORY PRACTICAL INFORMATION Ticketek Abasto, Ave Corrientes 3247 2°, Capital Federal, Buenos Aires. City Map 2 A4. Tel (011) 52377200. www.ticketek.com.ar San Luis 1752, Teatro Roxy – Radio City, Mar del Plata; Tel (011) 432-7200. Ave Santa Fe 1043, Rosario; Tel (011) 527-7200.

SPECTATOR SPORTS Newell’s Old Boys Estadio Parque Independencia, Avenida Las Palmeras s/n, Rosario. Tel (0341) 421-1180. www.nob.com.ar

Rosario Central Estadio Club Atléico Rosario Central, Boulevard Avellaneda & Avenida Génova, Rosario. Tel (0341) 438-9595. www.rosariocentral.com

CLASSICAL MUSIC AND DANCE Teatro El Círculo

6+)28-2%763'/197-'7')2) -7:-&6%28%2(7303-78779',%7 ,%60= %6'B%%2(38,)603'%0 &%2(7)2.3=0%6+)*3003;-2+7 28)62%8-32%0+6394778%+) 8,)-6'32')6871%-20=-2*338 &%0078%(-917)78-:%07-2'09( -2+3759B23'/-2C6(3&% %2(4)'9A23'/%2()7)00 3'/-29)237 -6)7%886%'8 &-+2%1)7)78-:%0%>>)2 -6%1%68%/)740%')-29)237 -6)7463:-2') 1%00)6 '32')68:)29)7-2'-8-)7,378 6+)28-2-%2%2(-28)62%8-32%0 .%>>%2(&09)7197-'-%27

Laprida 1223, Rosario. Tel (0341) 424-5349. www.teatro-elcirculo. com.ar

Teatro Lavarden Mendoza & Sarmiento, Rosario. Tel (0341) 472-1462. www.lavarden.com.ar

Teatro Municipal Colón Yrigoyen 1665, Mar del Plata. Tel (0223) 494-8571. www.mardelplata.gov.ar

THEATER AND FILM Cinemark Beruti 3399, Palermo, Buenos Aires. City Map 5 D3. Tel (0800) 222–2463. www.cinemark. com.ar

Cosmos Avenida Corrientes 2046, Buenos Aires. City Map 2 C5. Tel (011) 4953 5405.

Teatro Auditorium Blvd Maritimo 2280, Mar del Plata. Tel (0223) 493-7786. www.mardelplatafilmfest.com Musicians performing at Casa Blanca, Buenos Aires

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Cycling along a trail through Parque Nacional Los Arrayanes

CYCLING AND MOUNTAIN BIKING 7,*39.3&89*77&.3.39-* 3)*&37*,.4387&3,.3,+742 ,7&;*197&(08&3)74(0> .3(1.3*894:3):1&9.3,+449-.118 &3)8-&)>(458*8-&82&)* 24:39&.3'.0.3,545:1&7 4<*;*7431>(>(1.898<-4 (&3-&3)1*,:89><.3)8 8-4:1)(74889-*&9&,43.&3 89*55*'>'.0*45:1&7<.9- 74&)&3)24:39&.3'.0*78&7* 9-* &0*.897.(9&3)8.*77&8 4+F7)4'&)*1&"*39&3& &3) &3).1479-<*89-:'8 8:(-&8 :(:2B3&3)&19& -&;*94:7&,*3(.*89-&9-.7* 4:9'.0*84(&1+.7288:(-&8 &);*39:7*85*(.&1.89 Andestrack.3&3&79D3)* 148 3)*8&3)Montañas Tucumanas.3&3.,:*1)* :(:2B34++*7,:.)*)&3) 8*1+,:.)*)24:39&.3'.0.3, 94:78492&3>45994'.0*

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'4&898:3):1&9.3,+&.7<&>8 &3)(-&11*3,.3,-41*8<-.1* 9-* Arelauquen Lodge&184 3*&7&7.14(-*&9&,4 :9.*77*?47,&3.?*8,41+&3) 5414*=(:78.438 -*-49*1 -&8.984<3 -41*(4:78* -*&(0.(01&:8)*8.,3*)

Chapelco Golf and Resort.8& +.789(1&885&7 (4:78*3*&7 &3&79D3)*1483)*8 7,*39.3.&394:7(425&3.*8 Covitour&3)Secontur(7*&9* ,41+.3,.9.3*7&7.*8&(74889-* (4:397> 39-*84:9-*73 574;.3(*8Patagonia Golf(&3 &))43+1>+.8-.3,97.58

DRIVING HOLIDAYS :9&&(.43&1 .81*,*3)&7> ':99-*7*&7*2&3> 5&;*)-.,-<&>8&3)49-*7 97:3074&)89-&9&7*&184+:3 94*=5147* ++74&))7.;.3,*=5*7.*3(*8 (&3'**=(.9.3,+742':25> *=(:78.438.39-*3)*&3 -.,-51&.389474:,-)7.;*8 &(74888&191&0*8&3))4<3 ,7&;*1&3)2:)74&)8 Movitrak.3&19&4++*78&);*3 9:74:84++74&))7.;.3,*=5*7. *3(*8&9&,43.&-&8&184 '442*)&8&)7.;.3,)*89. 3&9.43 -**;*3 &0*8)7.;* '*9<**3 ".11& & 3,489:7& &3) &3&79D3)*1483)*8 .8&,7*&9*=(:78.4343 *=(*11*3974&)8Argentina

A lonely road heading westwards across Patagonia to Perito Moreno

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Vision.3:*794&)7>3(&3

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Hikers at Parque Provincial Aconcagua

WHALE-WATCHING

CRUISES

#,;,02* *":0'0-,#-$1&# 4-/*"0+-01$+-204&*# 41!&',%*-!1'-,0.#/1-/0 02!&0Jorge Schmid Whales Argentina,"Tito Botazzi //,%#1/,0.-/1,"#5.#/1 %2'"#01-&#*.3'0'1-/00.-1 "-*.&',0)'**#/4&*#0," .-/.-'0#0 -21&#/,'%&1 4&*#0&-4#3#//#1/ 11/!1'-, **+(-/',1#/ ,1'-,*1-2/-.#/1-/01&1 $#12/# /%#,1',',1&#'/ '1',#//'#0-$$#/.!)%#0$-/ 4&*#41!&',% 2#/1- #0#"- '0,#5!#**#,1*-!1'-,$-/ - 0#/3',%.-/.-'0#0,"+,6 -1&#/+/',#0.#!'#0," *+-01**1-2/0',!*2"#1&# /-!)&-..#/.#,%2',!-*-,6 -,0*',%<',- Darwin Expediciones'01&# +',-.#/1-/',1-4,

2#,-0 '/#0,"0&2' /#$3-/'1#01-.-3#/0$-/1&# *-,%&2**252/6!/2'0#01&1 !-+#"-4,$/-+ /7'*," 1&#-/0+**#/!/2'0#0 /-2,",* #%*#," /-2,".#-/,1/6 Témpanos Viajes',0&2' ," Mare Australis4&'!&&0 -$$'!#0',1&#,1#/,1'-,* "3#,12/#1-2/-.#/1-/0 02!&0Peregrine Adventures ," Explore&'/#+#"'2+ 0'7#"'!# /#)#/,"'!#./--$ 0&'.0"2/',%1++#/1- #5.*-/#1&#-21& 1*,1'!," ,1/!1'!&#/#/#,- *-,%#/,6/#%2*/.00#,%#/ 0#/3'!#02.;-/,9 21 !/2'0#0,"$'0&',%3-6%#0 /-2,"01/#1!&-$1&'0/'3#/ ',-//'#,1#0!,*0- # -/%,'7#" 0#"*252/6 -.#/1-/ Exsus//,%#0 /,%#-$1'*-/+"#/'3#/ ,"-!#,!/2'0#0

Windsurfing off Playa El Doradillo beach in Puerto Madryn

SAILING AND WINDSURFING

, /'*-!&#Velero Gourmet -$$#/0*252/60'*',%1/'.01- '!1-/'0*,"',%- &2#* 2.',* #%*#'0.-.2 FISHING AND HUNTING */4'1&0'*-/0,"Rumbo Sur SRL!,-/%,'7# -10 *6$'0&',%$-/1/-21," ,"!-+ ',#'1',#//'#04'1& 0*+-,'0%/-4',%',.-.2 *," 0#"#5!2/0'-,0 */'16#0.#!'**6',1%-,' ',"02/$',%'0%',',%', ,"1&#)# '01/'!1 Tiempo .-.2*/'16', /%#,1',," de Pesca',,/1;,"#*-0 %-/$2*-,1&##3#, ,"#0//,%#0/'3#/1/'.0 )#0/-"'0%--"!&-'!# 1%-,'-*$-$$#/0 Dormis Costa Traful!, 3/'#16-$$*6$'0&',%1-2/0 //,%#4',"02/$%#/04#** *-77-$Río Seco'0 0)6)',%,"&-/0#/'"',% 4#**),-4,#5.#/11&#-1&#/ #5!2/0'-,01#/0)'',%-/ %--"*-!*%#,1'0Skifish 0.##" -1',%!/-00;-*1 /%#,1',',/'3#/$'0&',%'0 04#**0$'0&',%1/'.0!-+ *0-.-.2*/,"Pira Lodge ',#"4'1&3'0'101-/2%26 ," Estancia San Alonso -1& !, #//,%#" 6*252/6 ', 01#/-0"#* #/9!, 1-2/%#,1Fueguito //,%# -10,"%2'"#0 2,1',%#5.#"'1'-,01-#5!*2 RAFTING 0'3#&2,1',%#011#0," #01,!'0!, #-/%,'7#" &#/#/#+,6%/"#0-$ 6 Argentine Adventures 4&'1#41#//$1',%',1&# ,"#,3**#604'1&1&# 206/$1',%!#,1#/0*-!1#" ', /'*-!&#,"#,"-7 ,1&#$-/+#/Extremo Sur ," Aguas Blancas!, -/%,'7#$2**"6/$1',% "3#,12/#0"-4,;-,0- 4&'!&&0%/"#01- 4&'1#41#/0#!1'-,004#** 0%#,1*#)6)',%1/'.0 1&/-2%&1&#!&',-$*)#0 1&1!-,,#!1 /'*-!'1& 2#/1--,11',&'*#, #,"-7 Ríos Andinos8 0#"',1&#+',/$1',% !#,1#/-1/#/'**-08-$$#/0 /,%#-$/'3#/1-2/0$/-+ Fly-fishing in Río Chimehuin, which +--,*'1/$1',%,")6)',% flows out of Lago Huechulafuquen 1-&6"/-0.##"1/'.0

DIVING AND SNORKELING &#/#&3# ##,!-,!#/,0 /'0#" 6#,3'/-,+#,1*'010 -3#/.#-.*#04'++',%4'1& 4&*#0,"'1'0'+.-/1,1 1-!&#!)1&#!/#"#,1'*0-$,6 -,#-$$#/',%4&*#41!&',% -$$1&#2#/1-"/6,!-01 -4#3#/1&#/#/#+,6 #5!'1',%"'3',%-..-/12,'1'#0 -$$1&# 1*,1'!!-01',%/$2*$+-20$-/'1002 +#/%#"$-/#01%- &2#* 2.',"',1&#*)*," 0*,"00*0*3',0, 0&2' Ushuaia Divers //,%#0,-/)#*',%," 0&'.4/#!)"'3#0

Diver approaches a Southern Right whale off Península Valdés

DIRECTORY CYCLING AND MOUNTAIN BIKING

WALKING AND CLIMBING

WINE AND FOOD

Andestrack

Aymará Adventures and Expeditions

www.gastrosofia.com

Dormis Costa Traful

Arblaster and Clarke

Ruta 65, Lago Traful. Tel (02944) 479-005.

www.arblasterand clarke.com

Fueguito

Club Tapiz

Rumbo Sur SRL

www.andestrack.com.ar

Montañas Tucumanas www.montanas tucumanas.com

GOLF Arelauquen Lodge Opp Lake Gutiérrez, Bariloche. Tel (02944) 476-110.

Asociación Argentina de Golf www.aag.org.ar

Chapelco Golf and Resort www.chapelcogolf.com

Covitour www.covitour.com

Lagos de Palermo Municipal Club Ave Tornquist 6397, Buenos Aires. City Map 2 A3. Tel (011) 4772-7261.

9 de Julio 1023, Mendoza. Tel (0261) 4202064.

Centro Andino Buenos Aires Rivadavia 1255, Buenos Aires. City Map 5 D5. Tel (011) 4381-1566.

Huilén Viajes y Turismo Tel (02944) 495-489. www.huilenviajes.com.ar

SPAS AND LUXURY HOLIDAYS Evian Agua Club and Spa Cerviño 3626, Buenos Aires. City Map 5 F3. Tel (011) 4807-4688. www.aguaclubspa.com

SKIING AND WINTER SPORTS

Alejandro Frango

Pedro Moilna, Ruta 60 s/n, Maípu, Mendoza. Tel (0261) 496-0131.

The Grapevine Galería San Marcos, Local 12, Mendoza. Tel (0261) 429-7522.

Terra Riojana

www.darwinexpeditions.com

Ruta Internacional 7, Km 55, Potrerillos. Tel (0261) 429-5030.

Tito Botazzi

CRUISES

www.cerrochapelco.com

www.whalesargentina. com.ar

MIL Outdoor Adventure

Tel (02901) 432-946.

www.miloutdoor.com

DRIVING HOLIDAYS Argentina Vision Puerto Madryn. Tel (02965) 455-888. www. argentinavision.com

Canal Fun and Nature www.canalfun.com

Caravana Club San Martín 1140, Córdoba. Tel (03544) 470-261.

Kumbre www.kumbre.com

Movitrak www.movitrack.com.ar

Ripio www.ripioturismo. com.ar

Villa Cerro Catedral Ave Ant. Argentina Base, near Bariloche. Tel (02944) 460-140.

Ríos Andinos

www.puntaballena. com.ar

Jorge Schmid

Whales Argentina

Ushuaia Golf Club

Aguas Blancas

Morales 765, Bariloche. Tel (02944) 427-301. www.extremosur.com

Chapelco Ski Resort

www.secontur.com

RAFTING

Extremo Sur

www.caminoabierto.com

Secontur

www.sailingpatagonia. com.ar

Darwin Expediciones

Ave Bustillo, Bariloche. Tel (02944) 448-530. www.llaollao.com

Gobernador Campos 795, Ushuia. Tel (02901) 437753.

Velero Gourmet

WHALE-WATCHING

Puerto Pirámides. Tel (02965) 474-110.

Compañia de Guias de la Patagonia

www.rumbosur.com.ar

www.aguas blancas. com.ar

Camino Abierto

www.patagoniagolf. com.ar

www.fueguito.com

www.terrariojana.com.ar

Llao Llao Hotel and Resort

Patagonia Golf

SAILING AND WINDSURFING

FISHING AND HUNTING Argentine Adventures www.argentine adventure.com.ar

Explore 55 Victoria Rd, Farnborough, UK. Tel (0044) 870-333-4001. www.explore.co.uk

Exsus 10 Rockefeller Plaza, New York City, 10020, USA. Tel (001) 212-332-4848. www.exsus.com

Mare Australis

Estancia San Alonso

www.australis.com

Esteros del Iberá. Tel (03782) 497-073.

Peregrine Adventures

Pira Lodge

8 Clerewater Place, Thatcham, Berkshire, UK. www.peregrineadventures.com

www.piralodge.com

Río Seco

www.villapehuenia.org

Paraguay 647, Buenos Aires. City Map 3 E4. www.riosecoadventures. com

TANGO

Skifish

San Martín 626 PB, Ushuaia. Tel (02901) 436020.

Kallpatour

Palacio 130, Bariloche. Tel (02944) 431-257. www.skifish.net

DIVING AND SNORKELING

Tiempo de Pesca

Ushuaia Divers

Ragussi 26, San Martín de los Andes. www.tiempo depesca.com

LN Alem 4509, Ushuaia. www.tierradelfuego. org.ar

Villa Pehuenia

www.kallpatour.com

Lina’s Tango Guest House www.tangoguesthouse. com.ar

Témpanos Viajes

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Visitors going on a horse-riding tour with the help of a guide

GAUCHO FOR A DAY -" )/$)$)"0#*.#1 '24. )+-*0*!/# $- ' "4)- (*- /#) +' . /*.#*21$.$/*-.#*2 /* *( "0#*!*- 4 )/# (+. ./)$ () ./)$ ' (; */# '*/ $)) )/*)$* - *- 2 ''&)*2)!*- /# $-/-$/$*)'-0./$*( (*/$*) - 1$.$/*-.) +-/$$+/ $).# +.# -$)" /$1$/$ .*-%0./2/#/# "0#*.$)/$*) *-&$)".# + ./)$. $)'0 Estancia Alice*/# - 2$. &)*2). ''+*) ' '$-) - ''!/ ) /# $.*'/ Estancia La Angostura$)/"*)$# )/0-4*' ./)$*)/ $) -* ) - $* '' "*.$)/"*)$'.* *!! -./- &&$)"+-/!-*( "0#*/$1$/$ .Estancia Río Capitán'*/ $).*0/# -) /"*)$'.**-")$5 . 2$''$! /*0-.

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The well-furnished living room of Estancia Cerro de la Cruz

TOURS AND RESERVATIONS )4!$-(.# '+1$.$/*-.+') /*0-./*-" )/$). ./)$.

)/ -)/$*)'/$'*-( /*0- *+ -/*- Last Frontiers#. 3+ -/&)*2' " *!#*-. -)# .)--)" ../4./ 3'0.$1 +*'* ./)$.Arz and Horse$))-/9) '*. ) .*-")$5 ./*0-.) Trekking Travel$) )*5 +-*1$ ./- &&$)"$)!*-(/$*) )--)" .2$) /*0-.$) /# - "$*)Aves Patagonia$. "***+/$*)!*-/-$+./* -)# .-*../"*)$ The vast Estancia El Galpón del Glaciar, near Los Glaciares, Patagonia 2# - -- $-.+ $ .) !*0)Sol Iguazú) OTHER ACTIVITIES 2/#*-+-/$$+/ $)'$1 '4 Yacutinga Lodge- 0. !0' *0)/-4) ..0#./# !*-/-$+./*/# $.$*) .- )4 ./)$.*./*! !**/./(+$)" /# (%*--" )/$)$)/*0- 3 '' )/$)#*0. '$--$ . +'4!0' )/# . ).*0. *+ -/*-!*-/$1$/$ .- '/ # 40.0''4#1 "** *( ./)$*2) -. /*2$''$! $.Lihue *'' /$*)*!**&.*)/# - *0)/) */ .-*0)/# Expediciones . *0)/-4.0'/0- )$)'0 *((0)'$)$)"/' 2#$' Naturetrek*!! -."0$) /* ./)$.)/# $-/$1$/$ . '..4*!! /' **&.. */# -.*-")$5 !*-('./*-4 *( *!/# "-) ./-)# . 2 ''.'..$.*)-0-''$! / ''$)". ..$*).*- 1 ) .0#. -)) 5." /0-*0.1$.$/*-.)*+/!*-#*/ ) !*0)$)*(+- *( ./)$.--)" $-''**)-$ ./#/+-*1$ # ).$1 '$./*)/# ./)$. )/-05) ./)$. !*- 1 )$)") + -!*- (")$!$ )/1$ 2.*!/# -" )/$)$)*0)/-4.$ () .2# - 1$.$/*-.) -" )/$).2 .$/ .

DIRECTORY GAUCHO FOR A DAY Estancia Alice Ruta Provincial 11, near El Calafate. Tel (011) 4311-8614. www.estanciaalice. com.ar

Estancia La Angostura Ruta Nacional 40, near Tres Lagos. Tel (02962) 491-501.

Estancia Río Capitán Ruta Provincial 35, Patagonia, Province of Santa Cruz. Tel (02286) 420-938.

BIRD-WATCHING, HORSE-RIDING AND TREKS Estancia El Cóndor Ruta Nacional 40, Lago San Martin. www.cielospatagonicos. com

Estancia Huechahue

Estancia El Colibrí

A.E 12 –Junin de los Andes, (8371) Neuquén. Tel (02972) 491-303. www.huechahue.com

Camino a Santa Catalina, Km 7, Santa Catalina, Córdoba. Tel (03525) 465-888. www.estancia elcolibri.com

Estancia La Maipú Maipú 864, Piso 3 Oficina “A”, Buenos Aires. City Map 3 E4. Tel (011) 4901-5591. www. estancialamaipu.com.ar

Estancia Rincón del Socorro Casilla 45, 3470 Mercedes, Corrientes. Tel (03782) 497-172. www. rincondelsocorro.com

LUXURY ESTANCIAS

Estancia La Oriental Junín, Province of Buenos Aires. Tel (02362) 15640-866. www.estancialaoriental.com

Estancia Los Toldos Hosteria Cueva de las Manos, Patagonia. Tel (011) 4901-0436.

Estancia Menelik www.cielospatagonicos. com/english/menelik.html

TOURS AND RESERVATIONS Arz and Horse Rudecindo Roca 1020, San Martín de los Andes. Tel (02972) 422-597.

Aves Patagonia www.avespatagonia. com.ar

Last Frontiers www.lastfrontiers.com/ argentina

Lihue Expediciones Ave Córdoba 827, Buenos Aires. City Map 2 A3. Tel (011) 5031-0070.

Naturetrek

Estancia Peuma Hue

Cheriton Mill, Hants, UK. Tel (0044) 1962-733-051.

Estancia Cerro de la Cruz

www.peuma-hue.com

Sol Iguazú

Hostería Alta Vista

Ruta Provincial 72, near Sierra de la Ventana. Tel (011) 156-1582-449. www.estanciacerro delacruz.com

Ruta Provincial 15, Km 35, (9405) El Calafate, Santa Cruz. Tel (02902) 499-902. www.hosteria altavista.com.ar

www.soliguazu.com.ar Trekking Travel www.trekking-travel. com.ar

Yacutinga Lodge www.yacutinga.com

SURVIVAL GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 318327 TRAVEL INFORMATION 328335

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A bustling summer day at Plaza de Mayo, the capital’s major tourist hub

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Well-equipped tourist information center providing brochures and maps

A tourist camping at the foothills of the magnificent Mount Fitz Roy

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Visitors on the foredeck of a tour boat, Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

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/8;.A*695.2< /;..87).-7.<-*B< 27.6*<*;.,1.*9.; 87-*B=1;8>01).-7.<-*B &1.-88;,1*;0.*=7201=,5>+< ?*;2.<<>+<=*7=2*55B+>=2<78= 5.<<=1*7'% *7-,*708>9 =8 '% 27=1.68<=68-.;7 *7-/*<1287*+5.?.7>.< OPENING HOURS *74<*;.0.7.;*55B89.7 /;86 *6=8 9687@..4 -*B<*7-,58<.-8?.;=1. @..4.7-<><.>6<*;= 0*55.;2.<*7-8=1.;,>5=>;*5 ?.7>.<><>*55B89.7*= *6 *7-,58<.*=8;96 8<=<>9.;6*;4.=<*7- <189<27,5>-270+20<1899270 6*55<-87=,58<.>7=2596 8;5*=.;*;<9>+<*7-;.< =*>;*7=<<=*B89.7?.;B5*=. 6*42707201=52/.?2+;*7=*752?.5B 7=1.9;8?27,.<6*7B <189<*7-<.;?2,.<,58<.27 =1.*/=.;7887/8;<2.<=*

Art exhibition space in Museo de Arte Latinoamericano, Buenos Aires

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TRAVELERS WITH SPECIAL NEEDS 6>29?12 <1/8>38+3=C/>>9 ./@/69:+8/003-3/8>>9?<3=> 380<+=>?<+@/6/<=>2/38C/+<= 9./<87?=/?7=+<>1+66/< 3/=+8.?:=-+6/29>/6=89A 2+@/+--/==0+-363>3/= +6>29?123>3=+.@3=+,6/09< @3=3>9<=>9-2/-538+.@+8-/ 838-2/7+49<<1/8>383+8 -3>3/=2+@/:+@/7/8>6/@/6 .99<=09<+--97:+83/.A2//6 -2+39?<-97:+8C =:/-3+63D/=38+--/==3,6/ >9?<3=7:<[email protected]+.+:>/. 29>/6+--9779.+>398>9?<= +8.><+8=0/<=+8. 29?< >/6/:298/=?::9<>AccessAble Travel Source+8.>2/

Backpackers trekking through Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, Patagonia

-9?8>/<:+<>=+8.A3662+::36C ,<3819?>+2312-2+3<+8.+ -236.=3D/.099.:9<>398 +8C+?<+8>=+6=92+@/ =?:/<@3=/.:6+C+
Society for Accessible Travel and Hospitality (SATH),9>2

%/839<><+@/6/<=A366038.89 :+<>3-?6+<:<9,6/7=1/>>381 +<9?8.38<1/8>38+>29?12 >2/?=?+6-97798=/8=/ :398=C TRAVELING WITH +8.7/.3-+6-+38+3=+8/B>2+83803<=> -236.0<3/8.6C-9?8><3/=3>8/@/< C9?81=>/<=+9/8;?37?=/?7= /@/2/<>9?<3=>=3>/= 50plus Expeditions3=+ 1+>381+:?=2-2+3<9@/< >9?<3=>+1/8-C>2+>9<1+83D/= >2/:9>296/.:+@/7/8>=90 ?/89= 39?<=7+386C09< 1<9?:=90=/839<><+@/6/<= %97/-?6>?<+6.300//.E<1/8>383+8 +<9?8.#+>+1983+&2/C+6=9 -236.+=++<->3--/7/+6>37/=+8. ElderTreks3=+8+.@/8>?<+@/6-97:+8C>2+>./+6= <+9,/.,/092/3< :+=.9 9=>+?<+8>= /B-6?=3@/6CA3>2><+@/6/<= +8.29>/6=+2/+1/90 &2/C 0<3/8.6C>2+8>2/3<03<=>A9<6. 9<1+83D/+A3./@+<3/>C90 :<979>/+A+C09<><+@/6/<= A3>2=:/-3+68//.=

Senior travelers on a winery tour at Bodega Nieto Senetiner

>9?<=+<9?8.<1/8>38+ >2+>09-?=98A36.630/>+819 1+?-29/B:/<3/8-/=A38/ >+=>381+8.8+>398+6:+<5= GAY AND LESBIAN TRAVELERS ?/89= 3/=A3>2 $39./+8/3<909<>2/>3>6/90 1+C-+:3>+690+>38 7/<3-+ >2+=+@3,<+8>+8./-6/->3- =-/8//8-97:+==381,+<= +?<+8>=+8.69.1381= ">2/<,31-3>3/=+6=92+@/ :6/8>C>9900/<>2/1+C><+@ /6/<+8.>2/7+49<3>C90 29>/6=+<9?8.>2/-9?8> +--9779.+>3811+C9< 6/=,3+8-9?:6/=&23=3==>366 +7+-29=9-3/>C29A/@/< 7/+8381>2+>1+C7/82+@/ 1/<@3=3,363>C>2+86/=,3+8= &2/ International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA)900/<=+A/+6>290

3809<7+>39898>9?<+1/8-3/= +8.+--9779.+>3989:>398= BACKPACKERS <1/8>38+2+=6C,//8 03<76C/8>2/,+-5 :+-5/<><+36&2/8?7,/<90 C9?>229=>/6=38?/89=32/<>9: ./=>38+>398==?-2+=%+6>+ +<369-2/+8.6+6+0+>/+/6= +8.,?.1/>+--9779.+>398= %>?./8>=A29,/6981>9C9?>2 29=>/6381+==9-3+>398=7+C1/> +.3=-9?8>09<69.1381,?> -98-/==398=++@+36+,6/ 09<><+8=:9<>+8.9>2/<=/< @3-/=3>-22353813==>366+ 199.A+C>91/>+<9?8.>2/ -9?8>29?12+66>2/?=?+6 :398==29?6.,/>+5/8

# $ & ! " $

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DIRECTORY

WOMEN TRAVELERS >3=<+2+>A97/8 ><+@/6/<=A2/>2/<381<9?:= 9<:+3<=0+-/:<9,6/7=38 <1/8>38+9A/@/<3>3= +.@3=+,6/>9>+5/>2/?=?+6 :398=38-6?.38189> A+65381+698/6+>/38>2/ /@/8381 0>2/9 >+5/+>+B33>3=+.@3=+,6/>9 -+6609<<+.39>+B3= >2+>-97/>9>2/.99<=>/: Radio Taxi Porteño+8.Radio Taxi del Plata38?/89=3<+@/6381+698/7+C +>><+->+>>/8>398+6>29?123>3= ?=?+66C90>2/2+<76/==538. <1/8>383+87/8=97/>37/= :+==+=>/.-977/8>=9< =/B?+6+.@+8-/=A23-2 <+81/0<97 *9?9 <97A23-2 >9C=29:.3.C9?/=-+:/*9? .966 >3=,/=>>931892/7"8,/+-2/=5//:>9 73837?7/B:9=?9+@93. +>>/8>398&2/Young Women’s Christian Association (YMCA)

2+=+,<+8-238?/89=32+>900/<=,+=3-+8.-9709<> +,6/+--9779.+>398=

VISAS AND PASSPORTS Australia Tel (011) 4779-3500. www.argentina.embassy.gov.au

Canada Plugs used across Argentina

&.?<3813>==?77/< +8. 29?<=,/238..?<381 3>=A38>/< ELECTRICITY 6/-><3-3>C38<1/8>38+=+8.=9-5/>=>+5/ /3>2/<>A99<>22/=/:6?1=+ =2+:/. .+:>9<=09<092+<.A+9= #9A/<9?>+1/=+63@/.

Tel (011) 4808-1000. www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/bairs

UK Tel (011) 4808-2200. www.britain.org.ar

USA Tel (011) 5777-4533. www.argentina.usembassy.com

TOURIST INFORMATION Secretaría de Turismo y Deportes de la Nación www.turismo.gov.ar

TRAVELERS WITH SPECIAL NEEDS

CONVERSIONS

Access-Able Travel Source

US to Metric

Tel (0303) 232-2979. www.access-able.com

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099> -/8>37/>/<=

736/ 53697/>/<=

9?8-/1<+7=

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TIME Metric to US

&2/37/D98/ 38 <1/8>38+>29?12-/<>+38 :<9@38-/=:+<>3-?6+<6C>29=/ A3>26+<1/+1<3-?6>?<+6=/->9<= 9--+=398+66C:?>>2/-69-5= ,+-59<0938+3= 29?<=,/238.

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Decthird Tel (015) 4182-5469. www.decthird.com

Society for Accessible Travel and Hospitality (SATH) Tel (0212) 447-7284. www.sath.org

SENIOR TRAVELERS 50plus Expeditions Tel (0416) 749-5150. www.50plusexpeditions.com

ElderTreks Tel (0416) 588-5000. www.eldertreks.com

GAY AND LESBIAN TRAVELERS International Gay And Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) www.iglta.org

WOMEN TRAVELERS Radio Taxi del Plata Tel (011) 4505-1111.

Radio Taxi Porteño Tel (011) 4566-5777.

Young Women’s Christian Association (YWCA) Tel (011) 4322-1550. Visitors seated at tables outside a restaurant, Bariloche

! " " !

4)'06+0#+5#4'.#6+8'.;5#('2.#%'(148+5+6145 *'4' #4'015'4+1755'%74+6;%10%'405#.6*17)*8+5+6145 5*17.&$'#.'46612'66;%4+/'557%*#52+%-21%-'6+0) +0%419&'&2.#%'56+55#('461-''28#.7#$.'5.1%-'& #9#;+06*'*16'.5#(' *'4'#4'('9*'#.6*+557'56 +5#&8+5#$.'61$4+0)24'5%4+$'&&47)5#59'..#5# 9'..561%-'&(+456#+&-+6#0&9#6'4274+(+%#6+106#$.'65 9*'064#8'.+0)#0;9*'4'1((6*'$'#6'064#%-6+5# )11&+&'#61.'#40*1961&'5%4+$'%*410+%/'&+%#. %10&+6+105+02#0+5*#.6*17)*/1564)'06+0+#0 &1%61459+..*#8'#6.'#56#$#5+%)4#521(0).+5* 9*+%**#50).+5*52'#-+0) 56#((!0&'401%+4%7/56#0%'5 5*17.&;17*#0&18'4+/214 6#06&1%7/'06557%*#5# 2#55214661#21.+%'1((+%'4 9+6*176#9+60'55$'+0)24'5 '06#0'%'+262418+&'& LOST AND STOLEN PROPERTY

A Federal policeman in his uniform, Buenos Aires

POLICE *''&'4#.1.+%'*#5 ,74+5&+%6+10#%41554)'06+0# $76+04'#.+6;+5#%6+8'/#+0.; +06*'%#2+6#.1564176+0' 21.+%'914-+06*'%17064;+5 70&'46#-'0$;6*'2418+0%+#. 21.+%'(14%'5"+5+6145/#; (+0&6*#6.1%#.21.+%'#4'016 #.9#;5*'.2(7.#0&6*'241$ .'/5#((.+%6+0)21.+%'(14%'5 +0/156&'8'.12+0)0#6+105 57%*#5%144726+10#0&.19 5#.#4+'5#4''8+&'06*'4' *15'9*1(+0&6*'/5'.8'5 #8+%6+/1(149+60'5561# 5'4+175%4+/'/7564'214661 6*'+4'/$#55;#0&6*'4'.' 8#06.#9'0(14%'/'06#76*14 +6; 07'015+4'56*+5+5 6*' Comisaría del Turista

*'4'+5.+66.'21+06+0 4'2146+0).15614561.'02412 '46;616*'21.+%'70.'556*'4' +5#0''&61(+.'# 1((+%+#.4'2146(14+0574 #0%'274215'5 "+5+61459+.. 0''&61&16*+5#66*'0'#4'56

21.+%'56#6+10 757#..;9+6*+0 *17451(6*' 41$$'4;1562#5521465#0& %4'&+6%#4&55*17.&$' 4'2146'흆#52155+$.' 616*''/$#55;#0& 616*'%#4&+557'44'52'%6+8'.; '66;6*'(6+5016#/#,14 241$.'/+04)'06+0+#0%+6+'5 $768+5+6145/756#.9#;5$'10 )7#4&2#46+%7.#4.;+0705#(' 0'+)*$14*11&5#0&9*'0 75+0) 51765+&'$#0-+0) *174516'.6*'(65#4'4#4' $76+6+59+5'01661.'#8' 8#.7#$.'5+06*'411/ STREET HAZARDS

Traffic jam along a city road, a common sight in Argentina

%#4'(7..;9*+.'%4155+0)# $75;,70%6+10'24'2#4'& (1470'8'041#&574(#%'5#0& 2#8'/'065#0&(.;+0))4+6 9*+.'&4+8+0)10)4#8'.41#&5 1+5;564''6/#4%*'5#0& 2416'565#4'2#461(6*'&#+.; 4176+0'+07'015+4'5 #.6*17)*6*'+4'(('%6+5/#+0.; ('.6$;%1//76'4564#8'.+0) (41/6*'2418+0%'616*'%+6; '0%'+6+55#('461#.9#;5 #..19(14#$+61(52#4'6+/' 614'#%*#&'56+0#6+10 NATURAL DISASTERS 4)'06+0#*#5*#&8'4;('9 .#4)'5%#.'0#674#.*#<#4&5 6*#624'5'06#6*4'#661*7/#0 .+(''#8;4#+05614/54'57.6 +0(.11&+0)&7'61#2114 &4#+0#)'5;56'/+051/'2#465 1(6*'%#2+6#.#46*37#-'5#4' #6*'14'6+%#.4+5-+02418+0%'5 57%*#5'0&1<##0&#0 7#09*+%*$14&'46*' 0&'#04#0)' *'.#5664'/14 1(5'4+175016'1%%74'&+0

+0#07#0 06*'70.+-'.;'8'061(#0 '#46*37#-'+6+5#&8+5#$.'61 /18'#9#;(41/'.'%64+%+6; 21.'5#0&*+)*5647%674'5

16#..4)'06+0+#0&4+8'45 (1..1941#&4')7.#6+105#0& #5#2'&'564+#0+6+5$'5661$' #.'46#6#..6+/'5#0&.11- IN AN EMERGENCY

A police car in Buenos Aires

6+5$'5661%#..#0#/$7.#0%' +0%#5'1(#0'/'4)'0%;#0& 61)161#56#6'*152+6#. '/'4)'0%; 411/+(016%18'4'&$; /'&+%#.+0574#0%'"+5+6145 #4'#&8+5'&61%#44;#.10) 6*'+4/'&+%#.2#2'45+0%#5' 6*'&1%6149#065616#-'# .11-#66*'24'5%4+26+10

HOSPITALS AND PHARMACIES 4)'06+0#*#56916;2'51( *152+6#.527$.+%#0&24+8#6' *'(14/'4#4'757#..; 70&'4'37+22'�&70&'4 (70&'&#.6*17)*6*'&1%6145 #0&0745'5#4'*+)*.;37#. +(+'/#0;#.51914-+0 6*'24+8#6'5'%6141/'9'.. /#+06#+0'&)18'4/'06*15 2+6#.5#4'Hospital Zonal General de Agudos San Roque Manuel B. Gonnet+0#.#6# #0&Hospital de Urgencias+0

@4&1$#4+8#6'*152+6#.5#4' )'0'4#..;1(#*+)*56#0& 1(('4+0)(+456%.#55*'#.6* 5'48+%'5#0&5216.'55411/5 *'5'+0%.7&'7'015+4'55 Hospital Alemán#0&Hospital Británico *'4'+5#.51# /'&+%#.+056+676'':%.75+8'.; (14%*+.&4'0%#..'&Hospital de Niños Dr. Ricardo Gutiérrez #0;=24'5%4+26+1010.;> &47)56*#6#4'#8#+.#$.'+0 /14'&'8'.12'&%17064+'5%#0 $'$17)*618'46*'%1706'4+0 4)'06+0#156 2*#4/#%+'5#4'12'0(41/

#/61 2/#.6*17)*/#,14 %+6+'5*#8' *174176.'65 57%*#5Farmacity Malabia #0&Farmacity Santa Fe+06*' %#2+6#.#0&Farmacia 2001 +0 7%7/?0

MINOR HAZARDS

DIRECTORY

*'/156%1//10/+014 #+./'06561#((.+%68+5+614561 4)'06+0##4'&'*;&4#6+10 #0&5705641-'16*1(6*'5' %#0'#5+.;$'#81+&'&$; %#44;+0)#56410)5705%4''0 #%#2#0&$166.'&9#6'410 #0;':%745+101464+25616*' $'#%* #29#6'4+5#.51 216#$.'#..#%41556*'%17064; 1/'5'4+175&+5'#5'5#4' %#44+'&$;+05'%6$+6'5$76# 0#56;4#5*+5$;(#46*'/156 .+-'.;+44+6#06#8+5+614%#0)'6 6+59+5'61-''2#)11& $4#0&1(4'2'..'06#.9#;5#6 *#0& .6+67&'5+%-0'55%#0 +0':64'/'%#5'5$'�)'4 175$76+510.;#0+557'(14 8+5+614564#8'.+0)616*' 0&'#0*+)*.#0&5 11&21+510+0)+54#4'4 *'4'6*#0+0/156#6+0 /'4+%#0%17064+'5#.6*17)* 6*'757#.%1//105'05' 24'%#76+105#22.;

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

PUBLIC TOILETS

Farmacity Malabia

11&27$.+%$#6*411/5#4' 5%#4%'+04)'06+0##0&6*' 9'../#+06#+0'&10'5#4' /#+0.;+0%+6+'56+5$'5661 75'6*'5'48+%'51(27$.+% 61+.'65+06*'0'#4'56(#56 (11&%*#+05*122+0)/#.. 14&'2#46/'065614' TRAVEL AND HEALTH INSURANCE

Ambulance Tel 107.

Comisaría del Turista Avenida Corrientes 436, Buenos Aires. City Map 3 E4. Tel (0800) 999-5000.

Fire Service Tel 100.

Police (Buenos Aires and Mar del Plata) Tel 911.

Police (Argentina) Tel 101.

HOSPITALS AND PHARMACIES Farmacia 2001 Monteagudo 501, Tucumán Tel (0800) 555-2001.

Corrientes 5258, Buenos Aires. City Map 4 B5. Tel (011) 48573651. www.farmacity.com

Farmacity Santa Fe Santa Fe 2822, Buenos Aires. City Map 2 B3. Tel (011) 48213000. www.farmacity.com

Hospital Alemán Avenida Pueyrredón 1640, Buenos Aires. City Map 2 B3.

One of the many pharmacies found in Argentina’s cities

"+5+614564#8'.+0)614)'06+0# #4'#&8+5'&61274%*#5' 24+8#6'64#8'.+0574#0%'6*#6 +0%.7&'5(7../'&+%#.%18 '4#)' *+5+575'(7.+0%#5' 1('/'4)'0%+'59*+%*4'37+4' 64'#6/'06#624+8#6'%.+0+%5 9*'4'/'&+%#.%#4'%#0$' 8'4;':2'05+8'4)'06+0# 5*#4'5014'%+241%#.*'#.6* +0574#0%'5%*'/'9+6*#0; 16*'4%17064;

Tel (011) 4827-7000.

VACCINATIONS

Tel (011) 4962-9232.

SERIOUS DISEASES #.#4+#14%*1.'4#/#;$' (170&+051/'474#.4')+105 *'/14'%1//10&+5'#5'+5 &'0)7'#8+4#.+..0'55524'#& $;/1537+615 +5# %*410+%%10&+6+1064#05/+66'& 6*417)*#$.11&2#4#5+6' %#44+'&$;6*'%10'015'14 =-+55+0)$7)>6+524'8#.'06 +0474#.2#465$766*'4+5-1( %1064#%6+0)+6+5/+0+5%7.'

"+5+614564#8'.+0)614'/16' #4'#51(6*'%17064;5*17.& '0574'6*#66*'+44')7.#4+//7 0+<#6+10557%*#56'6#075#4' 7261' *';5*17.&#.51 %105+&'4*#8+0)#'2#6+6+5 8#%%+0#6+10 :%'26(14#('9 474#.#4'#5$14&'4+0)1.+8+# #0&#4#)7#;4)'06+0#+5 /#+0.;/#.#4+#(4''

www.hospitalaleman.com.ar

Hospital Británico Pedriel 74, Barracas, Buenos Aires. Tel (011) 4309-6400. www.hospitalbritanico.org.ar

Hospital de Niños Dr. Ricardo Gutiérrez Sánchez de Bustamante 1330, Buenos Aires. City Map 2 A3.

Hospital de Urgencias Calle Catamarca 441, Córdoba. Tel (0351) 4341-201.

Hospital Zonal General de Agudos San Roque Manuel B. Gonnet Calle 508 btwn 18 & 19, La Plata. Tel (0221) 484-029-094.

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DIRECTORY BANKS AND CASAS DE CAMBIO Banco de la Nacíon Argentina

5 centavos

www.bna.com.ar

Banco Piano Tel (011) 4321-9200.

Citibank www.citibank.com/argentina

TRAVELER’S CHECKS AND CREDIT CARDS American Express www.americanexpress.com/ argentina

10 centavos 25 centavos

MasterCard

50 centavos

Tel (011) 4348-7070.

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INTERNET AND FAX

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DIRECTORY CELL PHONES Phonerental www.phonerental.com.ar

MAIL SERVICES Correo Central Sarmiento 151, Buenos Aires. City Map 3 E4. Tel (011) 48919191. www.correoargentino. com.ar

DHL Popular talk show with Argentinian actor Susana Giménez on Telefé

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FedEx Maipú 753, Buenos Aires. City Map 3 E4. Tel (011) 43256555. www.fedex.com/ar

UPS Bernardo de Irigoyen 974, Buenos Aires. City Map 1 D1. Tel (0800) 222-2877. www.ups.com/ar

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The bustling check-in hall at Ministro Pistarini International Airport, Buenos Aires

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DIRECTORY ARRIVING BY AIR Aerolíneas Argentinas Ave L N Alem 1134, Buenos Aires. City Map 3 E3. Tel (0810) 222-86527. www.aerolineas. com.ar

Air France San Martín 344, Buenos Aires. Tel (011) 4317-4711. www.airfrance.com.ar

American Airlines Tourist coaches parked at the Cristo Redentor near the Chilean border

Tel (011) 4318-1111. www.aa.com

British Airways

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Tel (0800) 666-1459. www.britishairways.com

Iberia Tel (0810) 999-4237. www.iberia.com

KLM

6+)28-2%7,%6)7-87&36()67 Tel (0800) 122-3014. ;-8,*-:)'39286-)7%6%+9%= www.klm.com 30-:-%6%>-0"69+9%=%2( Varig ,-0) 8-74377-&0)83%66-:) Tel (0810) 266-6874. -283 6+)28-2%:-%%2=3* www.varig.com.ar 8,)7)'39286-)7%08,39+,-8 PACKAGE DEALS AND -7-14368%2883',)'/:-7% ARRIVING BY SEA ORGANIZED TOURS 6)59-6)1)287&)*36),%2( !6%:)0)67%66-:-2+&='3%', Buquebus %'/%+)7*366)73687%6392( ;-00979%00=&)%7/)(837,3; Ave Ant Argentina 821, Buenos 6+)28-2%'%2&)'314)8-8-:) 8,)-64%7743687%88,)&36()6 Aires. City Map 3 E3. Tel (011) !,)6)-7%0-:)0=1%6/)8*36 !396-787%66-:-2+-28,)-63;2 4316-6500. www.buquebus. ,30-(%=7-26+)28-2%*631 :),-'0)71%=&);%:)( com 2)-+,&36-2+'39286-)7)69 8,639+,3679&.)'8)(83% %2(,-0)%2():)2*631 8,3639+,7)%6',3*8,)-6'%6 4%-2;,)6)1%2=8396 ()4)2(-2+0%6+)0=328,) 9)683%()63

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'/03,;/,0+,(6-*96::05.9.,5;05()@*(9/63+:.9,(; (77,(346:;=0:0;69:79,-,9;6;9(=,3)@(09,5()305. ;/,4;6:,,4(5@6-;/,*6<5;9@::0./;:+<905.( -69;50./;:/630+(@6:;6-9.,5;05(:;6<90:;/6;:76;: :<*/(:;/,3(*0(9!,90;669,56(5+!(98<,(*065(3 .<(AF(9,>,33:,9=,+)@-30./;:-964(5+;6<,56: 09,:;/6<./-(93,:::6)@-30./;:),;>,,565, (56;/,9$9(=,3,9:/67705.(96<5+;/,*6<5;9@)@(09 ;/,9,-69,>033),*64,-(4030(9>0;/<,56:09,:: 4(05+64,:;0*(09769;,967(98<,69.,,>),99@ $/,4(05*647,;0;69:6- ,963D5,(:9.,5;05(:(5+ <:;9(3(9,Lade(5+LAN Argentina$/,-694,90:( :;(;,6>5,+(09305,67,9(;,+ )@;/,9.,5;050(54030;(9@ ;/(;9<5:+64,:;0*-30./;:;6 (5<4),96-2,@+,:;05(;065: 9.,5;05(0:(5(--030(;, People departing for a trip on an 6-;/,.96<7>/0*/67,9 Aerolíneas Argentinas flight (;,::,9=0*,:;64(169*0;0,: Sol Linéas Aéreas05 DOMESTIC AIRLINES 67,9(;065:05*, 0:;/, -09:;9,.065(336>*6:;(09305, $/,5<4),96-+64,:;0* 05 9.,5;05(;:,9=,:+,:;05( (09305,:0:,?7,*;,+;6.96> ;065:4(053@05;/,*,5;,96- 05305,>0;/;/,9.,5;050(5 ;/,*6<5;9@:<*/(:"6:(906 ,*6564@(5+;/,,?7(5:065 (5+E9+6)((:>,33(:767< 6-;/,;6<90:;:,*;69!9,:,5;3@ 3(9 ;3(5;0**6(:;(39,:69;: ,963D5,(:9.,5;05(: :<*/(:(9+,3!3(;(&033( 0:;/,*6<5;9@:3(9.,:; ,:,33(5+!<5;(+,3:;,05 +64,:;0**(990,9/(5+305. %9<.<(@ 5,>36>*6:; ()6<; 7,9*,5;6-;/, (09305,059.,5;05(0:Andes Líneas Aéreas>/0*//(: ;6;(3;9(--0* ;::0:;,9(09305,0:256>5(: -30./;:-964<,56:09,: ;6#(3;(Baires Fly73(5,: <:;9(3(5+)6;/(9,6>5,+ )@9<76(9:(5:$/,@ *(5*(99@(4(?04<46- 796=0+,(.66+-30./;5,;>692 7(::,5.,9:)<;0;/(:(-30./; (*96::9.,5;05(305205.;/, 5,;>692-69)6;/05;,95(;065(3 *(70;(3>0;/ +,:;05(;065: (5+5(;065(3-30./;:

A view of the domestic airport in Buenos Aires, Aeroparque Jorge Newberry

The control tower at Mendoza’s international airport

RESERVATIONS ",:,9=(;065:*(5),4(+, =0(;/,>,):0;,:6-=(906<: +64,:;0*(09305,:69(;;/,09 )9(5*/6--0*,:3,*;9650* ;0*2,;:(9,=(30+;/6<./ 7(7,9=,9:065:*(5653@), *633,*;,+)@;/,*9,+0;*(9+ /63+,9;0:(+=0:()3,-69 ;9(=,3,9:;6*(99@(7905;6<; 6-;/,,4(03:,5;;6;/,4 *65-09405.;/,)66205. &0:0;69:>/6(9,79,7(9,+;6 :7,5+:64,;04,:<9-05. 65305,;9(=,3(.,5*0,:(5+ (9,-3,?0)3,()6<;;/,+(@:65 >/0*/;/,@;9(=,3>033<:<(33@ ),()3,;6:,*<9,+0:*6<5;,+ -(9,:,963D5,(:9.,5;05(: (5+ <:;9(36--,9)@-(9;/, .9,(;,:;*/60*,6--30./;:(5+ +,:;05(;065:)<;;/6:,:,(9*/ 05.-69()(9.(05:/6<3+ */,*2>0;/;/,09*647,;0;69:

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BAGGAGE RESTRICTIONS

DIRECTORY DOMESTIC AIRLINES Andes Líneas Aéreas Avenida Córdoba 755, Buenos Aires. City Map 5 D3. Tel (0810) 777-26337. www.andesonline.com

Baires Fly Avenida Córdoba 755, Buenos Aires. City Map 5 D3. Tel (011) 4776-2800. www.bairesfly.com

Lade Perú 710, Buenos Aires. City Map 5 D3. Tel (011) 5129-9000. www.lade.com.ar

LAN Argentina Cerrito 866, Buenos Aires.

&0:0;69:*(5*(99@<7;6 3) City Map 5 D3. 2.65+64,:;0*-30./;: Tel (0810) 9999-526. >0;/ ,963D5,(:9.,5;05(: www.lan.com (5+<7;6

3) 2.>0;/ Passengers waiting by information 9.,5;05(6>,=,9 Sol Líneas Aéreas )6;/(09305,:653@(336>

3) screens at Jorge Newberry Airport Avenida Córdoba 755, Buenos 2.(:/(5+3<..(., Aires. City Map 5 D3. $9(=,3,9:65/<5;05.;907:>033 SHUTTLE SERVICES Tel (0810) 4444-765. /(=,;6.,;(:7,*0(330*,5:, $/,9,(9,9,.<3(9:/<;;3, ;6*(99@-09,(94: www.sol.com.ar :,9=0*,:),;>,,5A,0A((5+ AIR PASSES AND ,967(98<,69.,,>),99@ SHUTTLE SERVICES 69.(50A,+)@;/,*647(5@ CONCESSIONARY FARES Manuel Tienda León$/,:, Manuel Tienda León 64,:;0*-30./;:059.,5;05( 796=0+,(09*65+0;065,+)<:,: Avenida Santa Fe 790, near Plaza *(5<5-69;<5(;,3@),,?7,5 ;/(;:,(;(;3,(:; 7(::,5 San Martin, Buenos Aires. City .,9:$/,@69.(50A,70*2<7 :0=, ,963D5,(:9.,5;05(: Map 3 D3. Tel (011) 4315-5115 (5++,30=,9@3<..(.,+,76:0; 6--,9:(+0:*6<5;*(33,+&0:0;, and (0810) 888-5366 (toll free). :7,*0(3:,9=0*,::<*/(: 9.,5;05($/6:,>/6)662 (-30./;-964(-69,0.5(09769; .<0+,+;6<9:(5+,=,5 www.tiendaleon.com.ar ;6 A,0A( 5;,95(;065(309769; */(<--,9,+3046<:05,: (5+)662(565>(9++64,: ;0*-30./;(;;/,:(4,;04,*(5 :,*<9,+0:*6<5;:6-),;>,,5 BUENOS AIRES FLIGHT DURATION CHART ;6 7,9*,5;69,?(4 1:15 = Duration in hours: minutes 73,05:;,(+6-7(@05.%# 1:10 CÓRDOBA $/0:*/(9;+6,:56;05*3<+, -69(-30./;-964<,56:09,: 3(@6=,9;04, ;6(9036*/,;/,:(4,96<;, 2:15 3:15 SALTA >033*6:;653@%# :#<+(4C90*(097(:: 3:40 4:50 5:55 USHUAIA 6--,9::7,*0(39(;,:-69;/6:, >/67<9*/(:,;/9,,69469, 0:55 2:10 3:10 4:35 MAR DEL PLATA 65,>(@ -30./;:>0;/05 (;05 4,90*($/,7(::4<:; 2:20 3:30 4:35 6:00 3:15 BARILOCHE ),)6<./;

+(@:),-69,;/, -09:;-30./;(5+0;0:),;;,9;6 3:13 4:10 3:28 6:53 4:07 5:33 EL CALAFATE */,*2;/,+0:*6<5;7,9*,5 ;(.,),-69,)66205. -(990= 05.059.,5;05(-964(56;/,9 1:50 3:00 4:05 4:30 2:45 4:10 5:03 MENDOZA (;05 4,90*(5*6<5;9@69 -964#7(050;0:>0:,;6*/,*2 1:25 2:40 3:40 5:05 2:20 3:45 4:38 3:15 CORRIENTES ;/,7(*2(.,+,(3:656--,9 %7<5;03;/,(.,6-;>6 */03+9,5;9(=,3-9,,69>0;/

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DIRECTORY MICROS Andesmar www.andesmar.com

Via Bariloche www.viabariloche.com.ar

TRAINS El Tren del Fin del Mundo www.trendelfindelmundo. com.ar

Ferrovías www.ferrovias.com.ar

Trenes de Buenos Aires www.tbanet.com.ar

Tren Patagónico www.trenpatagonico-sa.com.ar

;2-.8787.8/=1.=8>;2<=B ;8>=.<=;*?.;<.-+BEl Tren del Fin del Mundo *&;8,12=* /;86?255*0.=8?255*0.27=1. Tren Patagónico 27=.;28;?2<2=8;<1*?.=8=*4.* @12,15274<=1.=5*7=2,,8*<= @2=1*;258,1.*7-%*5=*< 6272+>< >00*0.5262=<,*7 +.,1.,4.-@2=1=1.89.;*=8; *6*C270&;.7-.5*< >+.< *7-+*0<*;.1*7-5.-+B 98;=.;<@18 .A9.,=*=298/*;8>7-$ FERRIES

One of Argentina’s sleek modern micros

MICROS 870-2<=*7,.,8*,1.<*;.* 0;.*=@*B=80.=*;8>7-=1. ,8>7=;B=1.B*;./*;,1.*9.; =1*7/5201=<*7-08=868;. -.<=27*=287<68;./;.:>.7=5B *;.=.A9.,==89*B [email protected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email protected] ;0.7=27*<6*38;,2=2.<=80.=

9*;=/;86=1.989>5*;;8>=. ,877.,=270>.78<2;.<@2=1 !75B*1*7-/>58/9;2?*=.*7- 85872*-.5%*,;*6.7=827 9;8?27,2*5,869*72.<89.;*=. ';>0>*B=1.;.*;.?.;B/.@ <.*+*<.-=;*7<98;=<.;?2,.< =;*27<.;?2,.<8>=<2-.8/ 27 ;0.7=27*>:>.+>< 0;.*=.;>.78<2;.<6870 =1.6*;.Ferrovías*7-Trenes <.55<=2,4.=;<287<18@.?.;*;. de Buenos Aires8@.?.; ,8668727,5>-27087.< =1.2;=;*27<,*7+.8,,*<287 *55B2556*27=*27.-*7->7,86 *5870*7*5.*05.27&2.;;* /8;=*+5.&1.;.*;.<=255*;8>7- -.5>.0827=1."*=*0872*7 5*4.<*;8>7-*;258,1.*7- <2A6*27;8>=.<=1*=-.9*;= %*7*;=F7-.58<7-.<*7- /;86=1.,*92=*5/8;-.<=27* =287<<>,1*<*;-.5"5*=* 68<=<9.,=*,>5*;8/*55 $8<*;28*7-*1F*5*7,* ,;>2<.<=87=*;,=2,*8>=8/ &;*27.7=1><2*<=<@255.738B* '<1>*2* TRAINS

People on a train going from Buenos Aires to Tigre

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8;=1.*-?.7=>;8><8/<92;2=5884270/8;*-2//.;.7= 427-8/1852-*B.A9.;2.7,.=1.;.2<=1.89=2878/ =;*?.5270*,;8<<;0.7=27*+B;8*-727,;.*<2705B 989>5*;=8>;2<=*,=2?2=B-;2?270*;8>7-=1.,8>7=;B1*< +.,86.6>,1<*/.;*7-68;.,87?.72.7=;0.7=27*< ;8*-7.=@8;42<,869;.1.7<2?.D2/*95*,.2<52<=.-87 *6*92=,*7><>*55B+.;.*,1.-+B,*;8;68=8;+24. ;2?2708//.;<*727=26*=.?2.@8/=1.,8>7=;B$8*-< 9*<<<9.,=*,>5*;<,.7.;B*5870=1.=5*7=2,,8*<=8; ;>7*,;8<<+*;;.7"*=*0872*@1.;.@2-.89.7<9*,.< .7,8>;*0.*<.7<.8//;..-86*7-*-?.7=>;.

DIRECTORY RENTING CARE AND MOTORBIKES Avis Tel (011) 4378-9640, (0810) 9991-2847. www.avis.com.ar

Hertz Tel (0810) 222-43789. www.hertzargentina.com.ar.

18@.78;68><-;B*7- /.*=>;.5.<<68<=8/"*=*0872* 2<=1.B,*7=;B=1./>55B9*?.- GENERAL SAFETY OFF-ROAD DRIVING $>=* *,287*5 @12,1;>7< -8@7=1.=5*7=2,,8*<=$>=* &18>019*?.-68<=8/=1. 87?.7=287*5@2<-86-2,=*=.< *,287*5 87=1.8=1.; ,8>7=;B< ;>=*<7*,287*5.<,*7 =1*==;*?.5.;<7..-* ) 1*7-;>77270/;86$>=* /8>;@1..5-;2?.?.12,5. +.7*;;8@6*42708?.; *,287*5 =851*5=E72< @2=1=;>,4=B;.=;.*-=80.= *-2//2,>5=1201-;2?.@2=1* =*4270=2;270*7-<86.=26.< *;8>7-;0.7=27*+>==1*=2< <9.,=*,>5*;+*,4-;898; -*70.;8><)27-<,;..7*7- =1.9>;2<=;8*-=;299.;$>=* 1.*-5*690>*;-<*;..<<.7=2*5 78=*5@*B<=1.,*<.$8*-< *,287*5/;86&;.?.527 87=1.;8>015B0;*?.5.->=*< 8/=.75884@8;<.=1*7=1.B =8&;.5.@2<9.;/.,=@2=1=1. *,=>*55B*;.8;8//;8*- 9;8?27,2*5.< *<=1.;.2<* ;.:>2<2=.;.68=.0*<<=*=287< -;2?27018@.?.;*<852- -*70.;8//5B270<=87.<B <=*//.-+B/;2.7-5B58,*5

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DIRECTORY THE SUBTE AND OVERLAND TRAINS Constitución Station Gral Hornos 11. Tel (011) 43040028.

Retiro Mitre Ramos Mejia 1430. City Map 3 E3. Tel (011) 4317-4407.

Retiro San Martín Ramos Mejia 1430. City Map 3 E3. Tel (0800) 666-358-736.

COLECTIVOS Retiro Ave Ant. Argentina & Calle 10. Tel (011) 4310-0700.

TAXIS AND REMISES Amistax Tel (011) 4582-7774.

Radio Taxi Premium Tel (011) 5238-0000.

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