[ An Urban Biography of Omaha and Council Bluffs ]
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[ An Urban Biography of Omaha and Council Bluffs ]
l aw rence h. l a rsen ba r ba r a j. c ot t re l l harl a. dalst rom & kay cal amé dalst rom
University of Nebraska Press Lincoln and London
© by the University of Nebraska Press. All rights reserved. Manufactured in the United States of America Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Upstream metropolis : an urban biography of Omaha and Council Bluffs / Lawrence H. Larsen . . . [et al.]. p. cm. “A Bison original”—T.p. verso. Includes bibliographical references and index. isbn-13: 978-0-8032-8002-1 (pbk. : alk. paper) isbn-10: 0-8032-8002-5 (pbk. : alk. paper) 1. Omaha (Neb.)—History. 2. Council Bluffs (Iowa)—History. 3. City and town life—Nebraska—Omaha—History. 4. City and town life—Iowa—Council Bluffs—History. 5. Urbanization—Nebraska—Omaha—History. 6. Urbanization—Iowa—Council Bluffs—History. 7. Omaha (Neb.)—Social conditions. 8. Council Bluffs (Iowa)—Social conditions. I. Larsen, Lawrence Harold, 1931– f674.o5u675 2007 978.2—dc22 2006051062 Set in Minion by Kim Essman. Designed by A. Shahan.
To the memory of James C. Olson (–), teacher, friend, colleague, and distinguished scholar.
[ Contents ]
List of Illustrations Preface ix
viii
Part > The Beginning to The Council Bluffs Part >> – . The Lone Tree Ferry and the Founding of Omaha . Goddess and Harlot Part >>> – . From Small Town to Gateway City . Growing Pains and Public Improvements Part >K – . The Country’s Center . Urban Crosscurrents Part K – . Into the Great Depression . Riding Out the Storm Part K>. . . . .
Since Redirections Troubled Times, Quieter Times Reviving Council Bluffs Groundbreaking Changes For Further Reading Index
[ Illustrations ]
B6E The Council Bluffs . Grenville M. Dodge . Fourteenth Street, between Douglas and Farnam, Omaha, . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Council Bluffs Business District, circa Omaha in the late nineteenth century Grand Court, Trans-Mississippi Exposition, Omaha, North Fourteenth Street, Omaha, circa s John G. Woodward and Company Candy Factory, Council Bluffs American Smelting and Refining Company, Omaha Burning of William Brown’s body, Omaha, Joslyn Memorial Art Museum, Omaha Club House, Lake Manawa, Iowa, Omaha Stockyards, circa Broadway looking east, Council Bluffs, Downtown Omaha looking northwest, Western Heritage Museum, Omaha, Harrah’s, Council Bluffs, Council Bluffs Public Library, Qwest Center, Omaha, Looking west, Leahy Mall in foreground,
[ Preface ]
In a number of municipalities of all sizes, both very small and quite large, made up what is formally called the “Omaha–Council Bluffs, C:->6 Metropolitan Statistical Area” (BH6). BH6 is an artificial term used by the census to delineate the nation’s most populous urban concentrations. The census normally defines an BH6 as a central city or neighboring cities of fifty thousand or more, plus their surrounding counties. In , the Omaha– Council Bluffs BH6 ranked sixtieth among the such metropolitan areas in the United States and Puerto Rico. The territory of the Omaha–Council Bluffs BH6 is divided roughly in half by the Missouri River. Many of the communities in the BH6 are small; some have grown into large suburbs. Omaha, with more than four hundred thousand people, is the central city, sometimes called a core city, of the msa which has over eight hundred thousand inhabitants. The second-largest community in the BH6 is Council Bluffs, Iowa, with a population approaching sixty thousand. Originally called Kanesville, it was an early portal to the West, used by the Mormons as a staging point for their trek to Utah. In promoters from Council Bluffs founded Omaha directly across the Missouri River from Council Bluffs. River bottoms and a large floodplain separated the two cities, rivals that developed somewhat independently of each other but with some recognition that their fates were joined. Some observers considered the two communities at a divide between the eastern and western portions of the United States. Adjoining modern Omaha on the south is Bellevue, once a trading post and government Indian agency that was Nebraska’s first settlement. Outside decision makers had stymied Bellevue’s ambitions in Nebraska’s early development, but with the coming of World War II and the Cold War, a new set of outside decision makers brought a huge war industry and later a big mili
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tary base to the community, ending its eighty-year experience as a small town with a seemingly limited future. Rapid growth ensued, and by Bellevue, with a population of more than forty-four thousand, was Nebraska’s thirdlargest city. Before white settlement, native people in the Omaha–Council Bluffs area had recognized the importance of the region. In the mid-nineteenth century, the Omaha Indians — the “upstream people,” according to their tribal name — and other aboriginals were removed to reservations. What determined the ascendancy of the new town of Omaha was the decision during the Civil War to build the eastern half of the first transcontinental railroad, the Union Pacific Railroad, out of what was then a small community with uncertain prospects. The coming of the railroad cemented Omaha’s position as the most important place in Nebraska, dashing the hopes of Nebraska City, another Missouri River city. But eastern transportation connections were basic to Omaha’s growth, and even before the rails linking Omaha to California were completed in , a railroad tied Council Bluffs to Chicago and points east. Other lines soon added to the importance of Omaha and Council Bluffs as railroad centers. Whether they were pursuing development of railroads or other entrepreneurial activity, Omaha’s leaders consistently welcomed outside money, both private and public, while at the same time seeking to achieve freedom of action. This became a hallmark of the city. Upstream Metropolis: An Urban Biography of Omaha and Council Bluffs is not an old-fashioned traditional local history, with facts laid end-to-end without an apparent purpose. Since the birth of the Republic over one hundred thousand local histories have been produced in America that are valuable factually and chronologically but that contain little in the way of critical analysis or interpretation. Nor is Upstream Metropolis a modern “social history” that deemphasizes economics and politics and attempts to explain the history of a city by telling the stories of urban people, especially minorities. Upstream Metropolis does not have an agenda. Through extensive research in economic, social, and political material, the book explains historically how Council Bluffs and Omaha developed from their early to present days. Given that the book uses traditional means to tell how the Omaha–Council Bluffs area developed, with conclusions being drawn when appropriate as the story unfolds, there are no lists of incorporation dates of places, or lists of mayors, or chronologies of events. Upstream Metropolis provides a framework that x | E G :;68:
concentrates on delineating the process of urbanization. The purpose is to use only necessary and representative information to build an argument illustrating, for instance, the importance of outside decisions. Upstream Metropolis, while urban history, concentrates on urbanization, a concept narrower than the current definition of urban history, which in a general sense is all inclusive, covering everything that happens in a city. Urbanization is an independent variable, but everything that happens in a city is not necessarily urbanization history unless it is put in context and relates to city building. For example, the construction of the Union Pacific was a great engineering project that helped bind the nation together. Considered in that way, it is unimportant that the railroad happened to have an Omaha terminal. But, in Upstream Metropolis, the Union Pacific is considered in terms of its impact on the urbanization of the Omaha area, setting patterns that have affected Omaha’s development for over years, ensuring it and Council Bluffs of central-city status in a modern regional metropolis. All cities inside a BH6 have their historical pasts, so considering them as a whole is very difficult. For example, St. Louis County in the St. Louis Metropolitan Area has some ninety-three different incorporations. The Milwaukee–Waukesha BH6 includes the big city of Milwaukee plus the old important cities of industrial Racine and commercial Waukesha, both of which continue to have strong identities. As another example, Leavenworth, Kansas, an important military town since frontier days with a solid identity of its own, is part of the Kansas City, Missouri, BH6. Because of research limitations and other restraints imposed on a given project, almost all urban biographies concern a single city. This is illustrated by Pulitzer Prize–winning biographies of Washington and New York. The scope of the research is simply too broad in most cases to consider their suburban components. The few exceptions are rather broad accounts of very large urban areas, such as those for New York and Los Angeles, which have for obvious and urgent reasons attracted the interest of urbanologists from many different disciplines. Hardly any scholarly studies exist for the nation’s BH6s. This book makes no attempt to treat every community in what now constitutes the Omaha–Council Bluffs BH6, which by governmental redefinition grew from five to eight counties as the project neared completion. Of necessity, it gives prime attention to the core cities of Omaha and Council Bluffs.
EG:;68 : | xi
Bellevue is problematic. Its peculiar history with a significant early period, a long, fairly somnolent middle era, and a dynamic recent past is reflected in the narrative. Outlying towns and suburban counties are treated only insofar as their development reflects the growth of the metropolitan area. There are some good studies on the histories of these communities, and as the case with the core cities, much remains to be written about them. Of the many different kinds of primary and secondary sources that are used in writing about cities, newspapers are among the most rewarding and, at the same time difficult to use. Newspapers are the “manuscripts of the city” and researching them over a long period of time is daunting and tedious. Except for newspapers from recent years, the Internet is usually of no help because back runs of newspapers are not available through this medium. As a result, in researching years before the s, microfilm at appropriate depositories is the only alternative. Although Upstream Metropolis relied upon years of work by many scholars doing research in Omaha newspapers and other materials, when the project was started, little had been done on the development of Council Bluffs after the frontier period. Hence, doing research on Council Bluffs for Upstream Metropolis required the reading of a good bit of microfilm, primarily searching for information on topics not treated in the Council Bluffs Public Library’s extensive clipping files. For some time we have maintained our own clipping file of the Omaha World-Herald, which proved invaluable for writing about the metropolitan area’s recent period. Much additional research by the present authors and other scholars, especially for the and editions of The Gate City: A History of Omaha has made Upstream Metropolis possible. In any event, this book is a pioneering effort in the urbanization history of the nation’s sixtieth-largest metropolitan area. So many people have given help and encouragement over the years in writing about Omaha and the surrounding area that all of them can not be acknowledged. Of special help were the late A. Theodore Brown, Lyle W. Dorsett, Fredrick M. Spletstoser, Niel M. Johnson, Garneth Oldenkamp Peterson, Ann Diffendal, James E. Potter, Donald Snoddy, the late Jean Dunbar, Richard Overfield, William Pratt, William Petrowski, Roger T. Johnson, and Charles N. Glaab. Lawrence H. Larsen thanks appropriate officials of the University of Missouri–Kansas City for their aid. Harl Dalstrom is especially indebted to the x i i | E G : ;68:
College of Arts and Sciences of the University of Nebraska at Omaha for released time to conduct research. All the authors owe a particular debt of thanks to the work of JCD graduate students whose masters of arts theses provide important information on the history of Omaha and the surrounding area. Orville D. Menard, professor emeritus of political science, JCD, whose scholarly writings and hundreds of public programs have done much to advance the understanding of Omaha’s history, has been a source of encouragement. James C. Olson, president emeritus of the University of Missouri and a distinguished historian of Nebraska, provided valuable background information. Mark Norman of the Council Bluffs Chamber of Commerce; the staffs of the Greater Omaha Chamber of Commerce; Karen Klein, Planning Department, city of Omaha; Gayle Malmquist, Department of Community Development, city of Council Bluffs; and Paul Mullen and Pat Jesse of the Metropolitan Area Planning Agency afforded timely assistance. The staffs of the Council Bluffs Public Library, the Omaha Public Library, and the University Library, JCD, helped make research a pleasure. Thanks for help on the photographs goes especially to Timothy M. Fitzgerald, manager, photography, University Affairs, JCD; Lynn Friesner, Reference Department, Council Bluffs Public Library; Terri Raburn, Nebraska State Historical Society; and David Boutros, associate director in Kansas City of the Western Manuscript Collection, a joint collection of the University of Missouri and the State Historical Society of Missouri. Significant research on Omaha was done in Lincoln at the Nebraska State Historical Society. As custom and prudence demand, the authors of Upstream Metropolis are responsible for any errors.
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[ JE HIG: 6 B B :IGDE DA >H ]
[ Part > ] The Beginning to
[ ] The Council Bluffs
Saturday, August 21, 1999, was a typical sunny summer day as people gathered at a construction site at Sixty-seventh and Pacific streets in central Omaha to witness the dedication of a new building. The structure, housing the Peter Kiewit Institute of Information Science, Technology and Engineering, was a $70 million project combining private and public funds to ensure that Omaha and the state of Nebraska would be in the vanguard of the information age. U.S. secretary of education Richard Riley told the crowd that the institute, which would be operated by the University of Nebraska–Lincoln and the University of Nebraska at Omaha, would help the nation meet its needs in information technology education. Walter Scott Jr., a business and civic leader who had done much to make the Kiewit Institute a reality, said that the next challenge was to make the institute one of the best such learning centers in the nation. In a high-tech version of the traditional ribbon-cutting, Scott activated a robot that cut a fiberoptic cable. The robot then bowed to Scott and University of Nebraska president L. Dennis Smith. The Peter Kiewit Institute was part of an information technology complex rising on property formerly belonging to the civic organization, the Knights of Ak-Sar-Ben (reverse spelling of “Nebraska”), which had operated a horse racetrack not far south of the new structure. On a day during racing season in 1979—like many other days in other years—the voices of upwards of thirty thousand racing fans had sounded across this flat stretch of land. In less than a generation, the heyday of racing gave way to casino gambling on the Iowa side of the metropolitan area, the track closed, and the horse barns were razed. In 1999 the old Ak-Sar-Ben land was passing to uses that scarcely could have been imagined twenty years earlier. A few miles away in south Omaha, another big event was going on this Saturday, but no civic or educational leaders marked the occasion. In the
3
lobby of the seventy-three-year-old Livestock Exchange Building, people from many places in Nebraska and Iowa had gathered for the second day of an auction of an array of items from the stockyards, which after existing 116 years were soon to close. On the surface the atmosphere was cheerful, but many of the people who were present knew that an institution and a process that had linked Omaha to the Corn Belt and Great Plains for five generations were passing. Probably like others at the auction, Betty Votaw, from a Nebraska ranch over three hundred miles west of Omaha, had a longstanding family tie to the south Omaha yards. Her father-in-law, Eli Votaw, had sold cattle at this market for over half a century, and she declared, “Eli would turn over in his grave if he knew this place was closing.” Just over two months later, the stockyards closed. The two events of August 21, 1999, appropriately reported on the same pages of the Omaha Sunday World-Herald, illustrate the process of evolution and adaptation that characterized the first century and a half of the history of a metropolitan area that had emerged on both sides of the Missouri River. People attending one of the two symbolic events on that August day in what most of them deemed the final year of the twentieth century would have agreed that the capacity to adjust successfully, if not easily, to changing times is the hallmark of any dynamic urban center.
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