EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
TOP 10
honolulu & o‘ahu
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TOP 10
HONOLULU & O‘AHU
BONNIE FRIEDMAN
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
Contents
Left The Waikīkī skyline Right Polynesian Cultural Center
Contents Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu Produced by Blue Island, London Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore Printed and bound by South China Printing Co. Ltd, China First American Edition, 2004 10 11 12 13 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Reprinted with revisions 2006, 2008, 2010 Copyright 2004, 2010 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Company All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book. Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited. A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. ISSN 1479-344X ISBN: 978-0-75666-041-3 Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit.
Highlights of Honolulu & O’ahu
6
Pearl Harbor
8
Bishop Museum and Planetarium
10
Capitol District
12
‘Iolani Palace
14
Hawai’i Maritime Center
16
Honolulu Academy of Arts 18 Kalākaua Avenue
20
South Shore
22
Kāne’ohe District
24
Polynesian Cultural Center 26 Moments in History
30
Music & Dance Styles
32
Craft Traditions
34
Festivals
36
Natural Features
38
The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, Great Britain WC2R 0RL. COVER: Front – DK Images: Nigel Hicks clb; Photolibrary: Pacific Stock/Bill Schildge main. Spine – DK IMAGES: Rob Reichenfeld b. Back: – DK IMAGES: Nigel Hicks c; Rob Reichenfeld cl, cr.
2
Gardens & Nature Parks
40
Streetsmart
Treks
42
Planning Your Visit
104
Beaches
46
Sources of Information
105
Surfing Beaches
48
Arriving in O’ahu
106
Golf Courses
50
107
Adventures
52
Getting Around O’ahu Banking & Communications Things to Avoid
109
Spas and Fitness Centers 54 Local Dishes
56
Restaurants
58
Around O’ahu
Contents
Left Waikīkī Beach Center Performance, Kalākaua Avenue Right Chinatown
108
Shopping & Dining Tips
110
Budget Tips
111
Outdoor Activities
112
Honolulu
62
Safety Tips
113
Waikīkī
70
Specialist Tours
114
North Shore
76
Accommodations Tips
115
Central & Leeward O’ahu 84
Places to Stay
116
Windward O’ahu
90
General Index
122
South Shore
96
Glossary
128
Left Kualoa Regional Park Right Byodo-in Temple Key to abbreviations Adm admission charge payable Free no admission charge
3
TOP 10 OF HONOLULU & O’AHU
Pearl Harbor 8–9 Bishop Museum and Planetarium 10–11 Capitol District 12–13 ‘Iolani Palace 14–15 Hawai’i Maritime Center 16–17 Honolulu Academy of Arts 18–19 Kalākaua Avenue 20–21 South Shore 22–23 Kāne’ohe District 24–25 Polynesian Cultural Center 26–27 Top 10 of Everything 30–59
TOP 10 OF HONOLULU & O’AHU
Highlights of Honolulu & O’ahu 6–7
Harbor ! Pearl The World War II site draws 1.5 million visitors each year, including veterans and relatives of those who died. The warship USS Arizona is now a memorial. (See pp8–9.) +
This state museum in Honolulu offers a fascinating insight into Hawaiian culture. Its Science Garden represents the unique Hawaiian land divisions called ahupua’a. (See pp10–11.)
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Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Highlights of Honolulu & O’ahu O’ahu is the most populous of the Hawaiian islands, and its conjoined hubs are the city of Honolulu and the world-famous Waikīkī Beach. The vast majority of visitors make Waikīkī their base, venturing out on day trips to take in Honolulu’s many cultural attractions, Pearl Harbor, and other parts of the island. The family-friendly beaches and parks of the South Shore and Kāne’ohe District are in striking distance of Honolulu, while diehard surfers head for the North Coast. The Polynesian Cultural Center is also an easy day trip from the city.
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District £ Capitol Chinatown, the modern State Capitol, and an old mansion that was once the home of Queen Lili’uokalani are just some of the attractions of this historic district in Honolulu. (See pp12–13.)
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The palace was built for King Kalākaua and Queen Kapi’olani in the 19th century and was later the seat of government. It is now restored and open to the public. (See pp14–15.)
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Maritime % Hawai’i Center Down by Honolulu Harbor are a number of fascinating exhibits about Hawai’i’s maritime history, as well as a great viewing point from the top of Aloha Tower. (See pp16–17.)
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Kalākaua is Waikīkī’s main thoroughfare, running along the ocean right up to the crater of Diamond Head. Halfway along the avenue are the “Pink Lady” and the “White Lady” – two landmark, oceanfront hotels with famous bars. (See pp20–21.)
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Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Arts of the Islamic and Oriental worlds are strong points of this museum, as well as 15,000 works by American and European artists. Polynesian works are displayed, too. (See pp18–19.)
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The South Shore of O’ahu has among its attractions several popular beaches, walking trails over Koko Head, and an underwater park at Hanauma Bay. (See pp22–23.)
) Polynesian Cultural Center On the north shore of O’ahu, this center is the place to explore the rich traditions of Polynesia, such as the pageantry and cuisines of Hawai’i, Tahiti, Tonga, and other Pacific islands. (See pp26–27.)
Kāne’ohe District
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A stunning region northeast of Honolulu, Kāne’ohe has a scenic coastline, lush gardens, state parks, and a Japanesestyle temple to explore. (See pp24–25.)
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Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Pearl Harbor Set in a bay where Hawaiians once harvested clams and oysters (hence the “pearl” connection), the infamous World War II site is still a key military base. The harbor’s relics and memorials, which incorporate the resting place of the doomed battleship Arizona and final berth of the historic USS Missouri, are visited by 1.5 million people each year. A museum of military aviation is also nearby. Top 10 Sights
USS Arizona Memorial
Security measures are in place, and bags may have to be secured in lockers. Carry only what you need and, of course, nothing that might qualify as a weapon.
1 Battleship Row 2 USS Arizona Visitor Center 3 USS Arizona Museum 4 Historical Film 5 USS Arizona Memorial 6 USS Bowfin Park 7 USS Bowfin Submarine Museum 8 USS Missouri 9 Officers’ Quarters 0 Deck of Surrender
Row ! Battleship The U.S. docked the workhorses of its Pacific fleet along the shore of Ford Island. Vulnerably positioned, the ships sustained the full force of the attack on the morning of December 7, 1941.
The attractions of Pearl Harbor may be too much for small children — too much waiting and walking. • Map D5 • Visitor Center: 1 Arizona Pl.; www.nps.gov/usar; 422 0561; 7am–5pm; free; being renovated but remains open • USS Bowfin Submarine Museum: 11 Arizona Memorial Dr.; www.bowfin.org; 8am–5pm daily; adm $10; no children under 4 • USS Missouri: www.ussmissouri.com; 9am–5pm daily; adm $16 for self-guided tours, additional fees for special tours, such as the Captain’s Tour ($49)
8
Arizona @ USS Visitor Center Thousands of people pass daily through the center (above), which is the gateway to the offshore memorial. Arrive early: tickets for the movie and boat ride are gone by noon on busy days. And even then, expect several hours’ wait.
Arizona £ USS Museum This collection of interpretive exhibits and artifacts is one place to visit during the time you’ll inevitably spend waiting for the boat.
Mighty Mo (USS Missouri)
Film $ Historical The 23-minute documentary film shown at the Visitor Center gives viewers a broad outline of the forces that led up to the Pearl Harbor attack and the main events of that fateful day.
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The stark white structure, floating above the ship that became a tomb, is a place to solemnly peruse the names of the dead inscribed on the wall (below).
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Bowfin Park ^ USS This park, entryway to the submarine museum, plays host to a display of weaponry, including a deadly looking Poseidon C-3 Missile (above) and a Japanese suicide torpedo.
USS Missouri
* Twenty stories high and three football fields long, this vessel HAS earned its nickname, Mighty Mo. Approximately half of the ship is open to visitors.
Deck of Surrender
) A bronze floor plaque (above) in the teak deck on the USS Missouri marks where a mess table was set up for Japanese ministers to sign the Instruments of Surrender in Tokyo Harbor in 1945.
Quarters ( Officers’ The expensive but highly recommended 90minute Captain’s Tour of the Missouri takes you into areas for officers. The quarters may be small by civilian standards but are plush compared to the sailors’ “racks.”
Bowfin Sub& USS marine Museum If the Arizona is representative of the attack on the U.S., the Bowfin helps visitors understand how the country responded. Nicknamed Pearl Harbor Avenger, SS-287 has tales to tell of wartime patrols and conditions for submariners (below).
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
“A Day That Will Live in Infamy” That was how President Roosevelt described December 7, 1941, when the Japanese made a surprise attack on Pearl Harbor. The bombers crippled U.S. military installations on O’ahu, sinking or severely damaging 18 battleships at rest in Pearl Harbor, destroying or disabling nearly 200 aircraft, and killing 2,390 officers and men. The U.S. officially entered World War II after this event.
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9
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Bishop Museum and Planetarium The State Museum for Natural and Cultural History is a family-friendly center for scientific and cultural experience and study. It also hosts traveling exhibitions and is home to the Jhamandus Watumull planetarium. Almost every weekend, and on many weeknights, there are lectures, workshops, and openings. The museum also has a fascinating Busts and paintings in interactive science center. the Picture Gallery Top 10 Highlights
Main entrance
The museum’s shop, Pacifica, is a wonderful gift emporium – one of the island’s best. The quality of its souvenirs is excellent, and the wide-ranging book selection runs from history to science, and archaeology to anthropology. • 1525 Bernice St., Honolulu • Map A5 • 847 3511 • www. bishopmusem.org • 9am–5pm Mon, Wed– Sun; closed Dec 25 • Adm $15.95, child (ages 4–12) and seniors $12.95 (discounts for local residents and military)
Polynesian Hall Hawaiian Hall Picture Gallery Kāhili Room Hawai’i Sports Hall of Fame Library Richard T. Mamiya Science Center 8 Castle Memorial Building 9 Joseph M. Long Gallery 0 Planetarium 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
! Polynesian Hall Two floors of the museum are devoted to Pacific cultures other than Hawai’i’s. The artifacts give an insight into rituals and religion, daily life, warfare, clothing, music, and dance, and include carved figures (below).
Richard T. Mamiya Science Center
Hall @ Hawaiian The koa-paneled Hawaiian Hall, built in Victorian architectural style, is the heart of the museum. It is home to a vast collection of Hawaiian and Pacific area artifacts. The hall presents its stunning collections in a modern interpretation of Hawai’i’s history and culture.
Gallery £ Picture Considered the world’s finest collection of 19thcentury Hawaiian art, the museum’s extraordinary collection of oil paintings, watercolors, rare books, and collectibles are on display here.
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this collection honors Hawaiian royalty through portraiture and displays of royal belongings, including the fragile feather standards called kāhili (above).
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Sports % Hawai’i Hall of Fame This is an unusual installation (above) for a cultural museum, but islanders are crazy about sports, which are a primary form of community-building.
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
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^ Library This extensive library includes a database of published diaries, narratives, and memoirs, all with an emphasis on Hawai’i and Pacific culture.
Memorial * Castle Building Dinosaurs, robots, spiders, chocolate, and volcanoes have been the subjects of visiting exhibitions. Most are interactive and aim to pull in youngsters.
Planetarium
M. Long ( Joseph Gallery This gallery serves as Bishop Museum’s venue for showcasing contemporary Hawaiian art alongside other items from the museum’s collections. This grass sculpture (above) is an example of some of the native Hawaiian art pieces on display.
) The exceptionally active planetarium stages interactive shows, nightviewing sessions, and the “Science on a Sphere” exhibit in the lobby (below).
T. Mamiya & Richard Science Center Interactive experiences, including erupting volcanoes and deep ocean exploration, are offered at this state-of-the-art center.
The Ahupua’a Ahupua’a – the wedgeshaped units of land shown in the museum’s Science Garden – were overseen by konohiki (governors), who funneled taxes to royalty. The ahupua’a encompassed various farming regions and fishing grounds in order to meet the subsistence needs of their inhabitants.
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Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Capitol District If you had but one day to spend in Honolulu, there’s an argument to be made for spending it right here. Concentrated within a few misshapen blocks is a clutch of historic landmarks, a toothsome Asian marketplace, a neighborhood of fragrant lei stands, and alluring shops, galleries, and restaurants. And when it’s time to sit and contemplate, there’s also an ample store of shady mini-parks and cool retreats on hand. Top 10 Sights
Izumo Taisha Shrine, Chinatown
For Chinatown tours see p42. Re-energize at Cafe Laniakea in the historic YWCA building (1040 Richards St., 536 7061), or in the café of the Hawai’i State Art Museum. • Map J2–K3 • Museum of Art, 250 S. Hotel St.; 10am–4pm Tue–Sat; 586 0900; Free • Ali’iōlani Hale, 417 S. King St.; Mon– Fri; guided tours by appt. 539 4999 • Library, 478 S. King St.; Mon–Sat; 586 3500 • Kawaiaha’o Church, Punchbowl and King Sts.; 8:30am–4pm Mon–Fri • Mission Houses Museum, 553 South King St.; 10am–4pm Tue–Sat; 531 0481; Adm $10
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! Washington Place
This elegant mansion has been turned into a museum for Hawai’i’s last queen, Lili’uokalani, the abode’s most famous resident. It is home to the current governor.
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Washington Place Hawai’i State Capitol Hawai’i State Art Museum Coronation Pavilion King Kamehameha Statue Ali’iolani Hale Hawai’i State Library Mission Houses Museum Kawaiaha’o Church Chinatown
@ Hawai’i State Capitol The airy structure of 1969 is imbued with symbolic references to Hawai’i. Pools represent the sea, the columns reach up like tall trees, and the conical roofline recalls the volcanoes that formed these islands. In front of the building is a statue of Queen Lili’uokalani (left).
State £ Hawai’i Art Museum In 1967, Hawai’i became the first U.S. state to have an annual budget for art purchases. But it wasn’t until 2002 that the collection found its permanent home to showcase solely the work of island artists.
Hawai’i State Art Museum
$ Coronation Pavilion On the grounds of ‘lolani Palace (see pp14–15) is an ornate pavilion, erected especially for the coronation of King Kalākaua and Queen Kapi’olani in 1883. The octagonal, copper-roofed structure, which is emblazoned with the Hawaiian royal seal, serves as a bandstand for the Royal Hawaiian Band. They perform free concerts at noon each Friday and for gubernatorial inaugurations.
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State & Hawai’i Library The Hawai’i State Library building, with its colonnaded façade and mullioned windows, is a cool oasis amid the bustle of downtown. The Pacific section is especially worth a visit, as is the attractive enclosed courtyard.
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
During King Kamehameha Day celebrations each June (see p36), the King Street statue (left) is decorated with thousands of flowers, strung into exuberant lei (garlands).
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Houses * Mission Museum This living history museum (above) includes one of the earliest examples of American domestic architecture, the coral-block Chamberlain House (1830), as well as two other missionary buildings. There is an excellent gift shop.
( Kawaiaha’o Church Built by volunteers out of 14,000 handcut coral blocks, “Hawai’i’s Westminster” offers religious services in Hawaiian and English. Chinatown Its name has a double This 15-block historic meaning, referring to district should more properly a legend about a be called Southeast Asia sacred chiefess who town. Cohabiting amicably are caused water to flow food purveyors (above), here so she could farmers’ markets, gift shops, bathe, and also to a lei stands, and an area of art Biblical reference galleries and eateries. about “living waters”.
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Queen Lili’uokalani Washington House was the home of Lili’uokalani, the last queen of Hawai’i, who ruled from 1891 until she was deposed by the advocates of a Republic for Hawai’i in 1893. She was married to John Dominis, who owned Washington House, and later inherited the house from her husband’s family.
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Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
‘Iolani Palace A National Historic Landmark, this is the only state residence of royalty in the U.S. It was built for King David Kalākaua and his queen, Kapi’olani, and was the home of his sister, Queen Lili’uokalani, until her reign ended in 1893. From 1893 to 1968 ‘Iolani was the seat of the Hawaiian government. Heavily restored, it includes priceless objects and gorgeous decorative touches. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Statue of King Kalākaua and palace tower
Note that under-fives are not admitted on palace tours. • Map J3 • Corner of King and Richards streets, Capitol District, Honolulu • Recorded info: 538 1471; tickets: 522 0832 • www.iolanipalace.org • 8am–4pm Tue–Sat • Adm: gallery selfguided tour $6 adults, $3 children; 90-min guided grand tour with film $20 adults, $5 ages 5 to 17 • Shop: 8:30am–4:30pm Tue–Sat
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Gates and Coat of Arms Burial Mound ‘Iolani Barracks Central Hall and Staircase Blue Room Queen Lili’uokalani’s Room King’s Suite Throne Room Dining Room Palace Galleries
and ! Gates Coat of Arms The Kauikeaouli Gate, which opens onto King Street, was the ceremonial entrance, used only on state occasions. Mounted on its bars is the Hawaiian coat of arms (above), popular with islanders today in the form of medallions or amulets.
Mound @ Burial Although the chiefly burials were moved to the Royal Mausoleum in Nu’uanu in 1865, this mound to one side of the palace remains an object of respect, as some bones may remain.
14
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Top 10 Sights
Palace façade
Barracks £ ‘Iolani The diminutive but historic barracks (below) for the King’s guard now house the palace shop, ticket office, and video theater. The shop specializes in one-of-a-kind designs based on palace ornaments, such as bookmarks derived from the ornate carving on the palace door hinges.
Room % Blue In this first-floor room, the King
hall has doors to the front and back for light and ventilation, and is hung with royal portraits. The impressive staircase (above) is the work of royal advisor Walter Murray Gibson.
Lili’uokalani’s Room ^ Queen On the second floor is the room where Lili’uokalani (below) was confined for eight months after the overthrow of the monarchy. She was charged with being involved in an insurrection.
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Hall and Staircase $ Central This capacious and distinctive
received guests informally. A portrait of King Louis Philippe of France dominates; the French were among several countries that considered a closer alliance with (or even a take-over of) the Hawaiian kingdom.
Suite & King’s Kalākaua slept in a state bedroom with heavy Victorian furnishings, while in the library he conducted business and played cards. One of the islands’ first telephones is found here.
Room * Throne The king and queen would sit in state and receive their visitors here (right). In 1895, however, in less happy times for the monarchy, Queen Lili’uokalani was put on trial in these august surroundings.
The Queen Composer
Room ( Dining Formerly the
Galleries ) Palace This 50-room base-
Senate’s meeting place, this much-restored room now contains custommade sideboards, a commodious dining table, and an array of portraits depicting European heads of state.
ment complex, with its chamberlain’s offices, servants’ quarters, and kitchens, was the heart of the palace. Today, royal treasures are presented here in stateof-the-art displays.
Lili’uokalani, arguably Hawai’i’s best-loved queen (see pp13 & 31), was also one of Hawai’i’s most prolific composers. Born Lydia Kamake’eha Paki and known to her friends as Lili’u, she was already an accomplished musician and singer by the age of 15. While her best-known piece is surely the haunting Aloha ‘Oe, she composed over 100 songs, many of which she had published.
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Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Hawai’i Maritime Center This busy port, maritime museum, and the neighboring Aloha Tower Marketplace recall the days when Hawai’i’s primary link to the world was by water. Hawaiians arrived by extraordinary voyaging canoes; Westerners followed in ships with billowing sails. For decades, the ports were paramount, the subject of constant news reports, and a source of income for dockworkers, lei sellers, and coin-divers. King Kalākaua Boathouse Top 10 Sights
Aloha Tower Maketplace
The Waikīkī Red Line Trolley has a convenient stop at the harbor. Head to the Aloha Tower Marketplace for wonderful Asian fusion food at Chai’s Island Bistro (see p69).
• Map H4 • Hawai’i Maritime Museum, Pier 7, Honolulu; www.bishopmuseum. org/exhibits/hmc/hmc. html, 536 6373; 9am–5pm daily (call ahead as renovation works may be taking place); adm $8.50 (discounts for children, military, residents), self-guided audio tours available in several languages • Aloha Tower Marketplace, 1 Aloha Tower Drive, Pier 9, Honolulu; www.alohatower.com; 528 5700; most stores open at 9am, clubs stay open until 2am
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Museum
1 King Kalākaua Boathouse Museum 2 History of Surfing 3 Whaling Exhibits 4 History of Tattooing 5 Falls of Clyde 6 Hōkūle’a 7 Aloha Tower Marketplace 8 Honolulu Harbor 9 Aloha Tower 0 Piers 10 and 11
Kalākaua ! King Boathouse
Museum
The central museum building is named in honor of the Royal Boathouse where King David Kalākaua kept his canoes and hosted private parties. (His soirées were the source of considerable gossip.) There’s a reproduction of a Matson liner stateroom and a replica of a South Pacific atoll complete with (stuffed) wildlife.
of Surfing @ History California and the Beach Boys may have popularized surfing, but Hawai’i invented the art of he’e nalu (literally, “flowing over the waves”). Displays chronicle the evolution from huge, heavy wooden boards to today’s sharp shooters.
View of Honolulu Harbor and Maritime Museum
Exhibits £ Whaling When whale oil fueled the lanterns of America and Europe, Hawai’i was the world’s whaling capital – a provisioning and R&R stop for whaling fleets. Exhibits include equipment at the sharp end of whaling, and awesome skeletons (below).
^ Hōkūle’a This double-hulled
Tattoos, so fashionable and readily acquired today, are steeped in spiritual meaning and tradition to Polynesians. Genealogical lines, chiefly standing, and personal behavior all determined which, if any, tattoos an individual could receive.
voyaging canoe (below) was built in the 1970s in proof that Hawaiians could sail the high seas. It is often on the water, taking its message of Hawaiian renaissance around Polynesia.
of Clyde % Falls The late Bob Krauss of the Honolulu Advertiser campaigned to save the Falls (above), the world’s only remaining fully rigged, four-masted ship, now moored by the Boathouse.
Tower & Aloha Marketplace This well-designed, history-conscious shopping complex on Pier 9 has not been a great commercial success for its shops. The real life of the place is in the restaurants, nightlife, and free noontime entertainment.
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
of $ History Tattooing
Tower Harbor ( Aloha * Honolulu This 184-ft structure Almost all of the (right), once the tallest building in the islands, says “home” to many islanders. Built in 1926, the 10-story tower offers a stunning 360degree view.
10 ) Piers and 11 At these Marketplace piers on a Sunday evening, Norwegian Cruise Line ships weigh anchor for their around-the-islands cruises. A Hawaiian band plays, hula dancers sway, and passengers watch the city lights fade.
state’s overseas waterborne traffic passes through Honolulu Harbor, and 98 percent of imports come to the islands by water. Masted ships visit from time to time; the fireboats spout fountains on special occasions, and the pilot boats zip about. A great vantage point for watching the life of the harbor is the patio of the Gordon Biersch brewpub at Aloha Tower Marketplace (see p68).
Hōkūle’a Project The hōkūle’a canoe (see entry above) was the first voyaging canoe built in Hawai’i for more than 600 years. Since 1973, the Polynesian Voyaging Society’s first vessel has sailed more than 100,000 miles to every corner of the Polynesian triangle. Traditional navigation, carving, and plaiting are some of the skills revived along the way.
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Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Honolulu Academy of Arts Hawai’i’s only general art museum, comprising 30 galleries, was founded in 1927 by the eclectic collector Anna Rice Cooke, whose home had become crammed with more than 4,500 pieces of artwork. The gracious stucco-and-tile building in the style islanders call “Territorial” was erected on the site of her original house. Top 10 Highlights 1 2 3 4 Museum façade
Doris Duke Theatre at the academy is one of only two venues for independent and foreign films on O’ahu. Cozy, acoustically superior, and comfortable, this space also hosts concerts, lectures, and performances. For programming information, call 532 8768. • Map M2 • 900 S. Beretania St. • 532 8700 • www.honolulu academy.org • 10am–4:30pm Tue–Sat, 1–5pm Sun • Closed Mon • Adm $10 (discounts for seniors, military, children – under 12s free); free first Wed of every month • Shangri La Center for Islamic Arts, 532 3685 (reservations); tours each Wed–Sat (they book months in advance); closed Sep; adm $25
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5 6 7 8 9 0
Western Collection East Meets West Asian Paintings Southeast Asian & Indian Collections Art of the Pacific, Americas, & Africa The Art of Hawai’’i Textiles Collection Henry R. Luce Gallery Arts of the Islamic World Shangri La Center for Islamic Arts
Oceania collection
@ East Meets West This group of objects is the product of a concept to which the Academy is deeply committed: the meeting of cultures. It is particularly apt since Hawai’i is one of those meeting places. Exhibits include trade goods and furnishings made in the East for Western use.
£ Asian Paintings
! Western Collection Based initially on Cooke’s gifts, this collection has grown to over 15,000 pieces. It is particularly strong in American works in all media and French 19thand 20th-century painting, such as the Polynesian themes painted by Gauguin (above).
A centerpiece of the academy’s Asian holdings is the James Michener Collection of ukiyo-e paintings (such as the example below), which also includes some of Hokusai’s Thirty-six Views of Mt. Fuji. The Asian Collection is equally strong in Japanese scrolls and Mingdynasty Chinese paintings.
Asian & of the Pacific, $ Southeast % Art Indian Collections Americas, & Africa Masks, effigies, figurines, statuary, everyday tools, religious artifacts, and other pieces from the Americas, Oceania, and Africa are displayed in separate galleries and in periodic special exhibits.
Art of ^ The Hawai’i This group, made up primarily of paintings, graphic arts, decorative arts, and sculpture, includes many of the most recognized images in the islands, such as Theodore Wores’ The Lei Maker (1902, below).
& Textiles Collection The Academy’s textile collection is immense, with only a small selection on display at any time. While the focus is on Asia, there are also fine examples of Pacific tapa cloth. Japanese kabuki costumes, an emperor’s jifu (robe), saris, and everyday clothing are well represented.
of the ( Arts Islamic World
Chinese robe in the textiles collection
La ) Shangri Center for
Islamic Arts
Tours of Doris Duke’s 1930s-era seaside mansion at Black Point begin at the Academy with a film, followed by a van ride to her home (right).
In conjunction with the Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art, this gallery is made up primarily of pieces from Duke’s broadreaching collection – furnishings, woven objects, decorative pottery, and printed papers. Tours of Shangri La begin here.
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
A gallery of Indian art, mostly collected by a wealthy Indian family who live in Honolulu, has everything from a magnificent carved door to wedding attire. Southeast Asian items range from shrouds to headdresses, and sculptures to ceramics. Indonesian pieces appear in both the Asian and Islamic collections.
R. Luce * Henry Gallery This area of the Academy incorporates a large space for changing exhibits, the Hawaiian art collection, workshops, and the Academy’s offices.
Orientation The Academy is arranged around a series of sun-splashed courtyards. Facing the central courtyard as you enter, the European and East-Meets-West collections are to the right; Asian artwork is on the left. The Henry R. Luce Pavilion, Art of the Americas, and the comprehensive Islamic and Indian galleries are at the rear.
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Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Kalākaua Avenue Waikīkī’s two-mile-long oceanfront street, running from Ala Wai bridge to the magnificent Diamond Head, epitomizes the dream of Hawai’i – gentle surf and vibrant nightlife. Named for Hawai’i’s playful last king, the street is lined with storied hotels, parks, and a host of attractions. The city has spruced up the street at Waikīkī Beach with plantings, seating areas, and a waterfall that’s a favorite “photo op” spot. Top 10 Sights
Waikīkī Avenue
Take a picnic to the Waikīkī Shell, where you can sprawl on grassy areas behind the seating while the music plays. • Map G5–M7 • Royal Hawaiian Hotel 2259 Kalākaua Ave., 923 7311 • Sheraton Moana Surfrider Hotel 2365 Kalākaua Ave., 922 3111 • Zoo 151 Kapahulu Ave., 971 7171, 9am–4:30pm daily; www.honoluluzoo.org • Aquarium 2777 Kalākaua Ave., http://waquarium.org; 9am–4:30pm daily; 923 9741
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1 Royal Hawaiian Hotel 2 Sheraton Moana Surfrider Hotel 3 Waikīkī Beach 4 Duke Kahanamoku 5 Kapi’olani Park 6 Honolulu Zoo 7 Waikīkī Shell 8 Waikīkī Aquarium 9 War Memorial Natatorium 0 Diamond Head
Waikīkī trolley bus
Hawaiian ! Royal Hotel The “Pink Lady” (right) retains her cache. Even if you’re not staying at this most famous of Waikīkī hotels (see p116), you can take afternoon tea on the veranda or visit the famed Mai Tai Bar.
Moana @ Sheraton Surfrider Hotel The porticoed “White Lady” (see p116) turned 100 in 2001. The Sunday champagne brunch on the veranda is legendary; an evening at the Beach Bar an absolute must.
Royal Hawaiian Hotel
Beach £ Waikīkī It’s all happening here just as it has for more than a century – beachboys giving surf lessons; old-timers playing checkers in the pavilions; canoe teams practicing; locals mingling with tourists in the gentle waves. The whole beach is open (left), including the areas in front of the Royal and Moana hotels (see also pp46 & 72).
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Park % Kapi’olani This 170-acre parcel
Zoo ^ Honolulu A compact zoo with
was dedicated by King Kalākaua in 1877. It was a military encampment in World War II, but today is a place for families, music, and festivals (right).
a number of warm habitats (below; see also p40). Check out the Komodo dragon. If time permits, take a backstage zookeeper tour, moonlight walk, or overnight campout.
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
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Shell & Waikīkī A very popular concert venue. Acts range from the Honolulu Symphony to a traditional May Day (Lei Day) concert by contemporary Hawaiian music favorites The Brothers Cazimero.
Aquarium * Waikīkī Popular with young-
How to “Go Diamond Head”
sters for its sharks and Hawaiian monk seals, the aquarium (right) is involved in conservation projects, and hosts reef walks and excursions.
Memorial ( War Natatorium
Head ) Diamond The crater at the end
This 1920s Beaux Arts saltwater pool was intended as a living memorial to World War I servicemen. It fell into disrepair, however, and though it has been partially restored, its future is uncertain.
of Kalākaua Avenue is twothirds of a mile across; its brow is 761 feet high, and its summit circumference is two miles. Take the 1.5-mile trail to its top for sweeping views (see also pp42 & 73).
The extinct Diamond Head volcano crater is so important an icon that Oahuans tell direction by it – “Go diamond head” means “Go East” to locals. Want to sound Hawaiian? Call it “Kaimana Hila” (KYE-mah-na HEE-la), an English borrowing that literally translates as “Diamond Hill.” It’s also the name of a popular hula.
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Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
South Shore O’ahu’s south shore changes rapidly from suburb to barely touched landscapes of azure bays, botanical gardens, and a shoreline from which whales can be seen in the winter surf. Though close to the city’s action, the coast has almost no services – no stores and few restrooms. An occasional lunchwagon at Sandy Beach and a snack stand at Hanauma Bay provide respite. Top 10 Sights
Sandy Beach
For a day on the sunny south shore, pack a cooler of ice, water, drinks, and snacks; bring sunscreen, hats, and sturdy shoes; rent or buy snorkeling gear for Hanauma Bay. • Map F5–6 • Hanauma Bay Marine Center: 396 4229, 6am– 7pm Wed–Mon, 6am– 10pm Sat; adm $5; go early or after 2pm • Koko Head Trail: the access road is just to the right of the Hanauma Bay entrance • Koko Crater Trail: park at the lot for the Hālona Blow Hole, then walk back along Kalaniana’ole Hwy until you see the trail angle off through the Job Corps Training Center property • Koko Crater Botanical Garden: Access is off Kealahou St, off Kalaniana’ole Hwy; 9am–4pm daily; free; for guided hikes call 522 7060
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1 Hanauma Bay Marine Center 2 Hanauma Bay Beach 3 Hanauma Bay Underwater Park 4 Toilet Bowl 5 Koko Head Trail 6 Koko Crater Trail 7 Koko Crater Botanical Garden 8 Hālona Blow Hole 9 Sandy Beach 0 Wawāmalu & Kaloko
Hanauma Bay
Bay ! Hanauma Marine Center Drifting aquatic plantlife, delicate coral, vibrant fish, green sea turtles, and rays can be seen in Hanauma Bay. A visit to this center is worthwhile and compelling to better understand the area’s dangers and ecological fragility.
Hanauma Bay
@ Hanauma Bay Beach
Though it remains a beautiful, palm-shaded beach (left), Hanauma’s popularity makes a visit worthwhile only if you also plan to experience the underwater park.
Bay £ Hanauma Underwater Park Waders, novice snorkelers, and more experienced divers can all enjoy this extraordinary preserve equally. The central area of the park is the safest; strong currents exist three quarters of the way to either side, ready to surprise nonattentive snorkelers.
For more on Hanauma Bay’s Marine Center see p38
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This trail involves a ramble along a steep, paved road, followed by a scramble along the spine of Koko Head, then a downhill path for views of the shoreline and the sea (see p38).
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Buffeted by wind and strewn with crumbly rocks, this exposed trail to the 1,200-ft crater is one you should approach with caution, good shoes, and a hat.
Crater & Koko Botanical Garden The magnificent scent of plumeria flowers (also known as frangipani, above) is the lasting impression to take away from this dry-land garden right inside Koko Crater.
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
exciting churning action as waves wash in and out. Folks love to bob up and down in the maelstrom, but be warned: there have been injuries.
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* Hālona Blow Hole
This lava tube sucks up water from below, then sends it shooting up (above; see also p39). You can climb down close to the blow hole, but it is very dangerous to go near the opening.
Koko Head
Beach Wawāmalu ( Sandy Locals love this beach ) & Kaloko (above), and on weekends it’s busy with body and boogie boarders. Just be aware that waves slam into the sloping sand beach with great force, resulting in many a broken bone.
These two beaches are fine for shoreline pleasures, such as sunbathing or flying a kite, but don’t even think of taking on the killing shore break and swift currents.
For more on the South Shore see pp96–101
The peninsula by Hanauma Bay is formed out of two volcanic landmarks: Koko Crater and the peak at Koko Head. Koko was the traditional name of a canoe landing at the Wai’alae side of Koko Head. The crater is also called Kohelepelepe. Today, the area is part of a regional park.
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Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Kāne’ohe District The area loosely known as Kāne’ohe is both commuting distance from Honolulu and a world away, the gateway to the North Shore and its country-style life. Many Native Hawaiians live here and the area is peppered with historic sites. You notice the difference at once – more pickup trucks, parked vehicles selling fresh fish and Hawaiian foods, and a slower pace.
Kahalu’u Regional Park Beach
The three most direct routes to Kāne’ohe from town offer beautiful views. On the Pali Highway (H61), stop at the lookout. Likelike Highway (H63) is the quickest route, with spectacular scenery as you emerge from the tunnel. From H3, the newest freeway, the entire Kāne’ohe area is laid out before you. • Map E4 • Ho’omaluhia Botanical Garden, 45-680 Luluku Rd, Kāne’ohe; 233 7323, 9am–4pm daily; guided walks 10am Sat & 1pm Sun • Ha’ikū Gardens, 46336 Ha’ikū Rd., Kāne’ohe; 247 0605; www.haikugardens.com • Valley of the Temples, 47-200 Kahekili Hwy, Kāne’ohe; 8am–4pm daily; adm $2 ($1 for seniors and children) • He’eia State Park, 46-465 Kamehameha Highway, Kāne’ohe, 247 3156
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Horseback riding, Kahalu’u
Top 10 Sights 1 Ho’omaluhia Botanical Garden 2 Ha’ikū Gardens 3 Valley of the Temples Memorial Park 4 Byodo-in Temple 5 Mōkapu Peninsula 6 Moku O Lo’e (Coconut Island) 7 He’eia State Park 8 Kahalu’u Fishpond 9 Kahalu’u 0 Mokoli’i (Chinaman’s Hat)
! Ho’omaluhia Botanical Garden The 400 fragrant acres of this park (below) also function as a flood-control facility. The area takes in themed plantings, trails, camp sites, a visitor center, and a lake.
Byodo-in Temple
of the Temples £ Valley Memorial Park Yes, it’s a cemetery but it’s also a place to take in the islands’ cultural diversity and the beauty of the Ko’olau mountains. It’s not uncommon to see entire families picnicking near the graves of loved ones; graves of Buddhists are equipped with food and incense to honor the spirits.
Temple $ Byodo-in At the rear of the memGardens @ Ha’ikū Planted by an Englishman, this park has a small lake, groves of ginger and bamboo, a well-kept lawn, a gazebo, and a pavilion. It is a popular venue for wedding ceremonies.
orial park, against the mountains, this other-worldly structure is worth the park admission alone. It’s a scale replica of the 900-year-old temple at Uji in Japan, watched over by an immense incense-wreathed Buddha. Enjoy feeding the swans and banging the deep-toned gong.
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( Bordering Waihe’e Stream and straddling Kamehameha Highway, Kahalu’u Regional Park has created a new focus in the Kahalu’u area. Its many activities include ballfields, a gym and swimming pool, a beach park, boat launch, and canoe house.
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Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Fishpond (right) is one of a handful of working ponds that date from a time when traditional Hawaiians farmed fish using rock walls fitted with mākaha – slatted gates that let fingerlings out but denied escape to larger fish.
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the district, this peninsula is, alas, out of bounds because it’s home to a military base. Despite the hum of aircraft, it’s a beautiful sight (above).
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Peninsula O Lo’e % Mōkapu ^ Moku Visible throughout (Coconut Island)
& He’eia State Park
Perched on a hillside, this interpretive park hosts educational activities aimed at explaining the area’s use as both an aquaculture center and a sacred site where spirits entered the afterlife.
) Mokoli’i (Chinaman’s Hat) A lopsided conical island (below), visible from He’eia to Kualoa, Mokoli’i is oftvisited by kayakers. It is said to be the remains of a giant mo’o (lizard god).
Marine Corps Base Hawai’i Kāne’ohe Bay is home to more than 10,000 U.S. Navy and Marine Corps personnel. The base’s mid-Pacific location makes it ideal for deployment to the Far East. Historically, this same place – Moku-kapu to ancient Hawaiians – was called “sacred district” because Kamehameha I met his chiefs here.
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Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Polynesian Cultural Center Covering 42 acres on O’ahu’s scenic north shore, the Polynesian Cultural Center provides an unparalleled opportunity to experience seven Pacific Island nations in one place on a single day. Though undeniably kitsch in places, the center has been immensely popular since the 1970s and welcomes around one million guests annually. Top 10 Highlights
Tongan dancers/musìcìans
It’s recommended that visitors arrive before 1:30pm for an optimum experience of the entire center.
• Map D1 • 55-370 Kamehameha Highway, Lā’ie • 293 3333 reservation system • www.polynesia.com • Mon–Sat: 12:30pm– 9pm; Cultural Villages close at 6:30pm • Adm/show package: adult $60, child (ages 5–11) $45. Dining & transportation packages also available
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0
Village ! Tongan The only remaining kingdom in the Pacific, Tonga has been ruled by the Tupou family since 950. The center’s Tongan Village features drumming, tapa cloth making, and a nose flute demonstration. And you can throw a spear on the village green!
Tongan Village Tahitian Village Marquesan Exhibit Hawaiian Village Fijian Village Maori Village Samoan Village Rainbows of Paradise IMAX Theater Hā: Breath of Life and the Ali’i Lū’au
Village @ Tahitian A French territory since 1842, Tahiti is known for, among other things, its incredibly fast, hipshaking dance, the tamure. You can learn the dance at the village, but if your hips aren’t up to it, you can opt for the coconut bread-making instead.
Exhibit £ Marquesan Made famous by artist Paul Gauguin, who spent his last years in the Marquesas, the culture of these islands is represented at the center through weaving and carving, tattoos, and Marquesan songs and dance.
House of the Gods, Fijian Village
Village $ Hawaiian There is nothing more representative of Hawaiian culture than hula. And this is the place to try the dance for yourself and learn about the symbolism of the moves. You can also play Hawaiian versions of checkers and bowling at the village (left).
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Village ^ Maori Wall carvings conveying ancient stories about these great navigators are on display here, and you can also learn about the fierce-looking Maori facial tattoos and see the famous haka war dance.
Village & Samoan Robert Louis Stevenson, known in Samoa as Tusitala (story-teller), loved the people so much that he settled on Western Samoa to live out his days. You can find out how to climb coconut trees and open their husks at the Samoan village (left).
of * Rainbows Paradise Each day at 2:30pm, the quiet lagoons come alive. Dozens of Polynesians in traditional costume present an interpretation of 5,000 years of Pacific Island cultural lore in a rousing pageant (above).
( IMAX Theater The theater shows one film daily. The wellexecuted Coral Reef Adventure highlights the declining health of the world’s oceans and the importance of the ocean to the Polynesian people.
Breath of Life ) Hā: and the Ali’i Lū’au The former is an exuberant Polynesian song and dance revue, featuring more than 100 performers; the latter a feast of traditional foods and contemporary entertainment.
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
cultural mix of Polynesia and Melanesia. The center’s Fijian Village features a tribal meeting house and an outrigger canoe, while the House of the Gods is the landmark for the whole center.
3
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The Mormon Connection The center was established in 1963 by the Mormon Church of Jesus Christ of Latterday Saints – there is a relatively high Mormon demographic in Hawai’i. The center’s mission is twofold: to help preserve the cultural heritage of Polynesia and to provide jobs and scholarships for students at Brigham Young University. The school’s Hawai’i campus is located next door.
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Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Left Plantation era Right Statehood tourist poster
Moments in History of ! Formation the Islands
Each of the islands in the Hawaiian archipelago is actually the top of an underwater volcano. The oldest of the seven major islands (formed some 70 million years ago) is Kaua’i; the youngest Hawai’i, where the active Kīlauea volcano adds more landmass daily. A new island, Lō’ihi, is forming far below the ocean’s surface, southeast of Hawai’i.
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Polynesian Migration
Scholars believe that Marquesan voyagers first came to Hawai’i as early as the 4th century, with Tahitians arriving later, in the 13th. It was these two great waves of migration by skilled Polynesian seafarers that first populated the Hawaiian islands.
Kamehameha I $ King Unites the Islands
An accomplished warrior chief from the island of Hawai’i, Kamehameha I waged war to conquer O’ahu and Maui, then forced the island of Kaua’i to cede to his dominion. Thus the islands were unified into the Kingdom of Hawai’i in 1809.
Arrive % Missionaries April 19, 1820 is a moment-
ous (some would say notorious) date, when the first American missionaries arrived in Hawai’i. The first group was made up of 23 New England Congregationalists, and they landed at Kailua on Hawai’i. Over the next 20 years, many more Christian missionaries would follow, taking up residence on all the major islands.
£ Western Contact
The landing of British explorer Captain James Cook at Kealakekua Bay on the island of Hawai’i in 1778 is generally acknowledged to be the first time Hawaiians had contact with westerners. There is evidence that Spanish ships sailed into island waters in the 16th century, but there are no records of any contact being made with the islanders.
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Plantation Era ^ The Beginning in the mid-
Precontact statue
1800s, the American businessmen who first set up sugar cane production on the Hawaiian islands started importing contract laborers to work the plantations. Chinese workers were followed by Portuguese, Japanese, Latin American, Korean, and Filipino immigrants. The immigration of those groups led to the diverse ethnic mix found in the islands today.
Previous pages Ceremonial boat, Polynesian Cultural Center
Overthrow of the & The Hawaiian Monarchy
Harbor Attacked * Pearl It was a quiet, overcast
Sunday morning when Japanese warplanes attacked the U.S. fleet anchored at Pearl Harbor. This shocking and stunning attack on December 7, 1941 marked the official entry of the United States into World War II (see also pp8–9).
( They came first by ship and Tourism
then by airplane, and by the late 1950s tourists were coming in increasing numbers, seeking the warmth and exotic beauty of Hawai’i, a place within easy reach of the West Coast of the U.S. mainland. Today, the islands host more than seven million visitors each year, arriving from every corner of the globe.
) Statehood Following several failed
attempts, Hawai’i became the 50th state in the Union on August 21, 1959. William F. Quinn and James K. Kealoha were sworn in as the first elected governor and lieutenant governor of the new state. The occasion is marked each year by a state holiday, Admission Day, celebrated on the third Friday in August.
Kamehameha I ! King The ali’i (chief) who in 1809 united the islands into the Kingdom of Hawai’i, after defeating Maui’s ali’i, Kahekili.
David Kalākaua @ King Affectionately known as the Merrie Monarch, David Kalākaua became king in 1874 and is credited with the revival of hula.
Pauahi Bishop £ Bernice Granddaughter of Kamehameha I, whose name lives on in the Bishop Museum.
Campbell $ James An early sugar baron who died in 1900; his estate is valued at over $2 billion dollars.
Thurston % Loren Transplanted mainland U.S. businessman and leader of the “Bayonet Revolution” of 1887, which ended the monarchy.
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
On January 17, 1893, Hawai’i’s last queen, Lili’uokalani, was removed from her throne and placed under house arrest in ‘Iolani Palace. The coup was the work of American businessmen based in Hawai’i, though it was not supported by U.S. President Grover Cleveland, a Democrat. He was unable to persuade the provisional government, led by Republican Sanford P. Dole, to restore the monarchy.
Influential Leaders
Lili’uokalani ^ Queen Hawai’i’s last and one of its most beloved monarchs (see also pp13 & 15). Her government was overthrown in 1893.
& John Burns
A strong statehood advocate, John Burns was elected in 1962 to his first of three terms as governor of the State of Hawai’i.
* Daniel Inouye
Hawai’i’s first Congressman was elected to the Senate in 1962 and has since served seven consecutive terms.
Waihe’e ( John The first governor of Hawaiian ancestry, he led the state from 1986 to 1990.
Thompson ) Nainoa The navigator for the Polynesian Voyaging Society since the 1970s, he has revived traditional voyaging arts.
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Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Left Hula dancers from the 1940s Right Chinese Lion Dance
Music & Dance Styles Kahiko ! Hula In this famous art
It is more flowing in style than hula kahiko, and dancers generally wear western clothes.
form, hula dancers are accompanied by percussive instruments made from natural Slack-Key Guitar materials and the The term slackintonations of one or key refers to a style of more chanters. playing the guitar in Slack-key guitar playing Ancient hula began, it which the strings are is believed, as a male preserve loosened, producing a jangly and as religious ritual. sound. Gabby Pahinui was, perhaps, the most famous of Traditional Hawaiian Chant Hawai’i’s slack-key masters – As an oral tradition, Hawaiian others included Raymond Kane stories and family histories were and Sonny Chillingworth. related through chant (oli). Ranging greatly in style, oli are used for Steel Guitar scores of reasons, from prayers The Hawaiian steel guitar was and lamentations to requests for born in the islands around the turn permission to gather flora. of the 20th century, but exactly where, when, and how is still a Hula ‘Auana point of discussion. The instrument When the practice of hula was is held horizontally on the player’s revived during the reign of the lap, and a sliding steel bar is used Merrie Monarch, King David instead of fingers on the fret board. Kalākaua, a new dance style took The sound was particularly big center stage. Known as hula ‘auana during the Sweet Leilani era. (modern hula), it is accompanied by instruments like the ‘ukulele, guitar, The Sweet Leilani Era standing bass, and singing voices. From 1900 to the early 1940s was the era when U.S. mainland composers were greatly influenced by Hawai’i, mostly as a result of the way the islands were portrayed by Hollywood. This era – when songs like Sweet Leilani, Yacka Hula Hickey Dula, and My Honolulu Lady Hula dancers
$
@
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£
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were composed – is called the Hapa-Haole or Sweet Leilani era.
The modern renaissance of the Hawaiian culture, which began in the late 1960s, continues to this day, with music playing a major role. The Brothers Cazimero, Ho’okena, the late Israel Kamakawiwo’ole, and Maui’s own Keali’i Reichel have combined their astounding voices with modern instruments and classic Hawaiian poetic techniques to create a magnificent new sound.
* O-Bon is a traditional Japanese O-Bon
religious observance but has evolved, as have so many cultural practices in the islands, into a more secular event. O-Bon dances honor deceased ancestors and are joyous occasions marked by drums, music, dances, and, nowadays, festival foods and fun activities.
( During February’s Chinese Lion Dance
New Year celebrations, the Lion Dance is performed all over Hawai’i. Acrobatic dancers don a lion costume and perform a dance to a steady – and very loud – drum beat designed to ward off evil and spread good fortune. Spectators fill red and gold envelopes with dollar bills and feed them to the lion to ensure future prosperity.
Beat ) World As a miscellany of musical
styles from around the world has made its way to the islands, so it is increasingly influencing musicians. Jawaiian describes a blend of reggae and Hawaiian music, and island rappers are now putting their own slant on hip-hop music.
! Pahu
Perhaps the most sacred of hula implements, pahu are drums, traditionally made using coconut tree trunk with a covering of sharkskin.
@ Ipu A hollowed-out gourd that, in skilled hands, is used to keep the beat in hula.
£ ‘Ili’ili Smooth stones – two are held in each hand and played by hula dancers in a style similar to Spanish castanets.
$ Pū‘ili Bamboo sticks, one end of each cut into a fringe so that they produce a rattling sound when played by hula dancers.
% Kāla’au
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
& Contemporary Hawaiian Music
Hawaiian Music and Dance Essentials
Pairs of sticks of varying length that are struck against each other during dancing.
^ ‘Uli’uli Gourd shakers that are filled with seeds and usually topped with feathers.
& ‘Ukulele A gift from the Portuguese that’s now integral to modern Hawaiian music. “Jumping flea” was how Hawaiians first described the sound.
* Guitar
Whether slack-key, steel, acoustic, or electric, the guitar is essential to Hawaiian music.
Bass ( Standing As in jazz ensembles, the standing bass has found its way into a lot of contemporary Hawaiian music.
Voice ) Falsetto Most easily described as male vocalists singing above their regular range, there is arguably no sweeter sound than the Hawaiian falsetto.
33
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Left Crafts stall Center Quilt pattern Right Canoe building
Craft Traditions
! Weaving Traditionally, women
$ Kapa Used throughout old
are the weavers in Polynesia for clothing, Hawai’i, and many of blankets, and decorathe old everyday obtion, Hawaiian kapa is jects they created from made from the bark of lau hala (leaves of the the wauke, or paper mulpandanus tree) and the Coconut frond hat berry tree. The process, minutely thin makaloa which is restricted to (sedge grass) are considered women, involves pounding the works of art today. Lau hala mats, bark repeatedly into paper-thin hats, and handbags are easily sheets that are then decorated found in craft shops, but makaloa using bamboo tools and plant dyes. is now something of a rarity.
@
Lei Making
£
Featherwork
There’s no more enduring symbol of Hawai’i than the lei (garland). In the past, permanent lei were made from shells, seeds, bone, and feathers, and temporary lei from vines and leaves. Today, colorful and fragrant flowers like plumeria and tuberose are most associated with this craft.
% Stonework Stones are an important part
of Hawaiian cultural life, used in practical situations (such as building) and for spiritual needs (such as the fertility and birthing stones found on all the islands). Because stones are so highly regarded, visitors are asked not to remove them from their setting.
Nets ^ Fishing Olonā fiber, derived from a
Cloaks, lei, headware, and native shrub, was commonly used kāhili (standards) for in the old days to make the ali’i (chief) were all fishing nets (a practice once fashioned from performed by men only). feathers. The birds Strong and durable were trapped so that though it was, manspecific feathers could made materials such be plucked, and then as nylon replaced olonā the creatures were rein the 20th century. leased. Yellow, red, and black were the Canoe Building colors most often used. As in all Hawaiian Today, artisans still craft cultural practices, there lei of feathers from is much ritual surroundpheasant and other ing the building of a introduced species. Lei making canoe, another of the
&
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Top 10 Lei Styles
! Haku Flowers, leaves, or fruit
@ Hili Hili are braided lei made ‘Ukulele fabrication
men’s arts. Traditionally, canoes are made of koa and always from one log, carefully selected by the boat builder. The craft is still very much alive today.
Making * ‘Ukulele A Portuguese import of the
late 19th century, the ‘ukulele quickly found its place in Hawaiian music. ‘Ukulele making is still a respected art in Hawai’i, and companies like Kamaka on O’ahu and Mele ‘Ukulele on Maui produce high-quality, handcrafted instruments.
Implements ( Hula The implements used by hula dancers and their accompanying chanters have changed little over hundreds of years. Though some enthusiasts still craft their own implements, hula supply shops on all the islands now allow dancers with busy 21st-century lives to purchase many of the items needed (though the materials used may not always be traditional these days).
) Among the many traditions Quilting
brought by the missionaries was quilting. Not surprisingly, Hawaiian women took to the art form and made it their own, replacing New England designs with gorgeous renderings of local flora and fauna.
from a single plant material such as ti leaf or maile.
£ Humupapa
Flowers are sewn onto plant material such as dried banana leaves (lau hala).
$ Kui Today’s most familiar lei – flowers strung together with needle and thread.
% Kīpu’u Short lengths of vines or long-stemmed leaves are knotted together.
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
are braided onto three strands of ti or other natural fiber. Haku lei are most often worn around the head or on a hat.
^ Wili
Plant materials are attached to a natural backing by winding fiber around them. Wili lei have no knots until the very end.
Hulu (Feather Lei) & Lei Traditionally made of feathers from now mostly extinct or endangered native birds, the art continues using feathers from common birds.
Pūpū (Shell Lei) * Lei These range from pukashell lei, wildly popular in the 1970s, to museum-quality Ni’ihau-shell lei, worth many thousands of dollars.
Lei ( Seed Simple, single-stranded Job’s Tears and intricately crafted wiliwili-seed lei are popular examples of this type.
Lei ) Contemporary From silk and ribbon to yarn, currency, and even candy, contemporary lei are made for every occasion.
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Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Left Chinese New Year Right King Kamehameha Day Celebration
Festivals New Year ! Chinese The sound of hun-
dreds of thousands of firecrackers, the timehonored Lion Dance, and bountiful feasts mark Chinese New Year in the islands. It takes place in early February, and anyone can take part.
Blossom Festival @ Cherry This long-running springtime
Park. Other activities include concerts, a Folklife Festival and an international hula competition.
of Honolulu % Taste An annual benefit for
festival perpetuates the rich heritage of Japanese culture through activities like the Heritage Fair and the Hawai’i International Taiko (Drum) Festival. The celebration culminates with the Festival Ball where a Cherry Blossom Queen and her Court are chosen.
Day £ Lei “May Day is Lei Day” say
the lyrics of a popular Hawaiian song. Not that anyone in the islands needs an excuse to make, wear, or give a lei, but May 1st is the day when master lei makers showcase their amazing skills.
Easter Seals Hawai’i, this three-day culinary extravaganza attracts more than 50,000 guests and a powerhouse of local chefs. There’s plenty of entertainment, wine tastings, and cooking demonstrations, too. It’s held at the end of June.
Lei Day
Lot Hula Festival ^ Prince Held annually on the third
Saturday in July at lovely Moanalua Gardens, the festival is the largest and oldest noncompetitive hula event in Hawai’i. It is named for Prince Lot, who reigned briefly as King Kamehameha V and was known for his commitment to the perpetuation of the Hawaiian culture.
$ King Kamehameha
Day Celebration
The highlight of the June events marking the King’s birthday is O’ahu’s colorful Floral Parade, which wends its way through Honolulu and Waikīkī, ending at Kapi’olani
36
Prince Lot Hula Festival
State & Hawai’i Farm Fair
Festivals * Aloha Contemporary Hawai’i is
celebrated from mid-September to mid-October every year. The festivities begin on O’ahu and move through the island chain with at least a week-long celebration at every stop. A “royal court” is chosen on each island, and there are floral parades, concerts, and craft fairs.
International ( Hawai’i Film Festival
The fact that renowned Chicagobased film critic Roger Ebert attends regularly is enough to give HIFF some well-deserved national weight. Started in 1981 as a project of the East-West Center when seven films from six countries were screened, today HIFF screens approximately 100 international films at twodozen locations on six islands.
) Children of all ages look Honolulu City Lights
forward anxiously to the evening in early December when the switch is flipped that lights up the city Christmas tree, signals the start of the Honolulu City Lights Electric Light Parade, illuminates the entire civic center area, and, of course, marks the beginning of the holiday season. The light displays, which adorn all city department buildings, are truly magical.
Open ! Sony Prestigious PGA Tournament played in January.
@ NFL Pro Bowl
A football game between the NFC and AFC all-stars caps off a week of festivities in late January/early February.
Aloha Run £ Great Tens of thousands run the 8-mile race on President’s Day (February), many for charity.
$ Transpacific Yacht Race Better known simply as the Transpac, dozens of yachts race from the California coast to Hawai’i every other July.
Wahine O Ke % Nā Kai/Moloka’i Hoe First the women in late September, then the men in midOctober paddle outriggers across the Island channels.
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Sponsored by the Hawai’i Farm Bureau Federation, this countystyle fair is held in mid-July to the delight of locals and visitors alike. Perennial favorites are the Country Market, which sells fresh produce from Island farms, the 4-H Livestock Exhibition, and the Plant Sale.
Top 10 Sports Events
Sports ^ UH Locals go hog-wild over the amateur volleyball, football, and other games at the University of Hawai’i.
& Honolulu Marathon
Each December some 25,000 international runners enjoy O’ahu’s scenic course.
Bowl * Hawai’i Two top-ranked college football teams get in on the action each Christmas Day in sunny Honolulu.
Rainbow ( Outrigger Classic Basketball
Tournament
A favorite holiday tournament features the beloved University basketball team competing against Mainland counterparts.
Triple ) Vans Crown of Surfing Professional surfers from all over the world gather on the North Shore in Dec/Jan.
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37
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Left Punchbowl Right Koko Head Botanical Park
Natural Features
! Punchbowl The 150,000-year-
diamonds. The interior has housed military operations and hosted rock concerts. A trail offers sweeping views.
old cone above the city of Honolulu has three identities. Its Hawaiian name, Pūowaina, means d Map C7 • Walking tour “hill of sacrifice” – it 9am Sat (free); 948 3299 was an ancient place of ritual and royal Koko Head Hālona blow hole burial. Punchbowl, its Not the most imEnglish name, refers pressive peak on O’ahu, to its shape. Today it is also the but its homely bulk is a landmark. final resting place for more than Nearby, Koko Crater rises to 35,000 veterans of American 1,200 ft. A panoramic two-mile wars in Asia and the Pacific. hike is reached through a botand Map L1 • Cemetery 8am–5:30pm daily ical park – the trail is wind-swept, narrow, and crumbly. d Map F6 • American Legion tours (fee); 532 3720
£
Head Bay @ Diamond $ Hanauma Arguably the most recognizThis keyhole-shaped Nature
able landmark in all of Hawai’i, this gracefully aging volcanic remnant was named by the Hawaiians Le’ahi, “brow of the yellowfin tuna,” for its shape. Its English name refers to the glinting calcite minerals, which were mistaken for
Diamond Head
38
Preserve is too beautiful and popular for its own good; the state has had to restrict access to protect it. You enter through a $13 million Marine Education Center, where you view a video before venturing down to the
Ka’ala * Mount This, the tallest peak on
Hanauma Bay
bay via tram for snorkeling and sunning. d Map F6 • 396 4229 •
Falls, Kaliuwa’a ( Sacred Unfortunately, one of the
6am–7pm (6pm in winter; 10pm Sat) • Closed Tue • Adm • Access denied when lot is full; go early or after 2pm
most beautiful and beloved landmarks on O’ahu, located in Punalu’u, is off-limits for the foreseeable future. A tragic landslide in 1999 that killed eight people forced closure of the park. The state has found no practical way to assure safety in this narrow, cliff-lined defile. d Map D2
Blow Hole % Hālona A lava tube that funnels gey-
sers of sea water high into the air, this dramatic feature is one to observe with care, preferably from the scenic pullout above it. Many who have hazarded too near have been injured or killed. From November through March, watch for spouting whales out to sea, as well as spouting water. d Map F5
Pipeline ) Banzai Just off the beach once
known as Paumalū, the Banzai Pipeline is the name given to a spectacular winter surf break, the result of a shallow coral reef that serves as a sudden stopping point for deep water currents sweeping inland. The name Banzai comes from the battle cry of Japanese warriors, and was first applied to the waves here during the narration of the late 1950s film Surf Safari. (See p77.) d Map C1
Mountain Range ^ Ko’olau The wind- and water-cut
Ko’olaus are the subject of countless Hawaiian chants and songs. This Windward-side mountain range (the name means “windward”), so green and dramatic, forms O’ahu’s spine from southeast to northwest. d Map C2–F4
& Wai’anae Mountain Range
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Composed of the remnants of the Wai’anae volcano, said to have grown quiescent 2.5 million years ago, this range is the higher of the two on O’ahu, reaching above 4,000 ft. The mountains here have a distinct wet (east) and dry side (west). d Map B3–4
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Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
O’ahu at 4,020 ft, is a preserve where indigenous birds and boggy plants prosper in the mist. On its slopes and at its feet, sandalwood once prospered, before the forests were decimated by Hawaiian royalty greedy for Chinese silks and other trade goods. d Map B3
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39
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Left Wahiawā Botanical Gardens Center Lili’uokalani Botanical Gardens Right Honolulu Zoo
Gardens & Nature Parks Botanical ! Foster Gardens
Planted by a pioneering botanist in the 1850s, nurtured by an amateur gardener, and willed to the city in 1931, this easily accessed city garden includes plantings of orchids and palms, and rare and endangered tropical plants.
care projects and nature adventures are held at the center in a picturesque ravine in Makiki Valley. d 2131 Makiki Heights Dr., Honolulu • Map C6 • 955 0100
Arboretum $ Lyon Named for Harold
L. Lyon, longtime director of botanical d 50 N. Vineyard Blvd., gardens in Honolulu, this University facility Honolulu • Map H1 • 9am– is both a field station 4pm daily • 522 7066 • Adm and a public garden of Lili’uokalani Botropical plants, native Foster Botanical Gardens tanical Gardens plants, conservation Bequeathed to her people by the biology, and Hawaiian ethnobotlast monarch of Hawai’i, the garany. Classes, workshops and den focuses on native plants. The outings are offered. d 3860 Mānoa site includes portions of Nu’uanu Rd, Honolulu • Map C6 • 988 0456 Valley. d North Kuakini St., Honolulu • • www.lyonarboretum.com
@
Map E5 • 7am–5pm daily • 522 7060 • Free
£
Hawai’i Nature Center
This non-profit conservation group’s mission is to encourage children to look after the environment. Weekend family programs including interpretive hikes, earth
Zoo % Honolulu The venerable zoological
garden in Waikīkī incorporates savanna and tropical forest areas, birds and reptiles of the Pacific islands, and a children’s zoo. A summer concert series is hosted on the grounds. d 151 Kapahulu Ave., Honolulu • Map M7 • 9am–4:30pm daily • www.honoluluzoo.org • 971 7171 • Adm
^ Moanalua Gardens Lili’uokalani Botanical Gardens
40
This non-profit environmental education center in historic
Ka’ena Point Natural Area Reserve
Kamananui Valley offers walks and operates an award-winning school program. The free Prince Lot Hula Festival (see p36) takes place each July on a traditional grassy hula pā (mound) in the shady park. d 1352 Pineapple Place,
Ka’ala Natural ) Mt. Area Reserve
Honolulu • Map E6 • 839 5334
This preserve is alongside a military reservation and readily reached by road. However, the paved route is off-limits to civilians, who must climb challenging trails to reach the misty bog in a bowl-like hollow atop O’ahu’s highest peak. The area has become a safe haven for native plants and wildlife; a boardwalk allows viewing without causing damage to the fragile ecosystems. It’s best to consult detailed hiking guides before setting out.
& Rescued from proposed Kawainui Marsh
development in the 1960s, this 830-acre wetland offers abundant wildlife and archaeological sites. Access is available from a flood control dike but the city is contemplating an ambitious perimeter. d Map E4
Botanical * Wahiawā Gardens
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Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
pressures of multiple uses such as offroad vehicles, fishermen, hikers, shell-collectors, and traditional Hawaiian practitioners, Ka’ena Point park is a narrow strip of land that connects the two ends of Farrington Highway (at Mokule’ia and Yokohama Bay). Hike a muddy, rutted road, catching sight of small bays and beaches until you reach O’ahu’s end, a tumbled landscape of sand dunes, rocks, and waves. d Map A2
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41
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Left Mt. Tantalus forest, Makiki Valley Center Trail sign Right Hikers on the Diamond Head Trail
Treks
! Honolulu Walking Tours
Kane’aole Trail, Makiki Valley Trail, and Maunalaha Trail – was cleared, planted with native vegetation, and recently equipped with directional signs.
The American Institute of Architects (AIA) leads two-hour Saturday tours of downtown Honolulu, taking in examples of d Enter via Hawai’i Nature various architectural Center, off Makiki Heights styles. Chinatown Drive • Map C6 tours are led by the Chinese Chamber of Diamond Commerce on Mondays Head Trail and by the Hawai’i Extremely steep in A shrine in Chinatown Heritage Center on places, dusty and dark Wednesdays and Fridays; in others, this two-mile hike ends Mission Houses Museum hosts in a series of viewing platforms. a tour of the Capitol district on The landscape spread before you, Thursdays. d AIA: 545 4242 • Chinese from Koko Head in the east to the curve of the Leeward Coast Chamber of Commerce: 533 3181 on the west, is worth the energy • Hawai’i Heritage Center: 521 2749 expended (see also p73). d The • Mission Houses Museum: 531 0481
$
@
Judd Memorial Trail
This easy one-hour trek in Nu’uanu Valley is a tribute to the forester Charles S. Judd, who planted the pines here in the 1930s. The pond is less picturesquely named Jackass Ginger after a donkey that used to be tethered in a nearby ginger grove. d Reached
trail begins at the Diamond Head State Monument parking lot, off Diamond Head Road at 18th Street in Kaimukī • Map C7
Lighthouse Trail % Makapu’u Makapu’u Point is the spot
where prevailing currents from the deep ocean are split by the land, resulting in interesting wave
from Nu’uanu Pali Drive near Ilanawai Condominium • Map E5
Valley £ Makiki Loop Trail
This two-mile loop, incorporating short segments of three longer routes –
42
Diamond Head Trail
action. An easy but breezy onemile walk along an abandoned road takes you to a World War II pillbox and Makapu’u Lighthouse. Watch for whales in winter. d Park at the Makapu’u Wayside • Map F5
^ Maunawili Demonstration Trail
Requiring half a day and someone to pick you up at the end, the Maunawili Trail extends from Pali Highway above Kailua to a back road in Waimānalo. It is a moderately easy 10-mile hike for which you will be rewarded with a rain forest valley, then views of the island’s windward side. d Map F4
Stairway & Ha’iku The 2,210-ft ascent to a
Ko’olau peak here is via a metal staircase built by the military for a now-defunct communications facility. After falling into disrepair, the trail closed due to a dispute over parking in the neighborhood. However, despite this, many still find a way to “unofficially” climb it, so access at your own discretion. Not to be attempted by the weak of heart, the stairway offers views normally available only to ardent hikers. d Map E4
Ranch Horse Trails * Kualoa The Kualoa Ranch & Activity
Club offers daily one- and twohour rides on this historic, 150year-old family ranch (see p92). One-hour rides traverse the base of the Ko’olau Mountains; twohour rides delve into wide Ka’a’awa Valley. These are suitable for inexperienced riders.
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Riding at Kualoa Ranch
d 49-560 Kamehameha Hwy, Kāne’ohe • Map E3 • www.kualoa.com • 237 7321
Point Trail ( Ka’ena This five-mile, two-hour trek
along the muddy remains of the shore highway offers pole-fishing sites, shelling in small inlets during low tide, and glimpses of birds, dolphins, and whales (see also p79). d The trailhead is at the Mokulē’ia end of Farrington Hwy • Map A2
Loop Trail ) ‘Aiea A family-friendly hike in and
out of the gullies in ‘Aiea Valley will familiarize you with vegetation such as ‘uluhe fern and ‘ōhi’a lehua. (Don’t pick the scarlet sprays of lehua flowers, custom says, or it will rain.) d From the top of ‘Aiea Heights Drive, enter Keaīwa State Park and park at the top • Map D4
43
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Left Pōka’i Bay Beach Center Kayaking, Kailua Right Boogie boarding, Waikīkī
Beaches remains prime people-watching territory, as well as being a gentle and safe place for swimming and learning to surf. d Map L7
Ala Moana
Moana ! Ala The most popular beach park
in urban Honolulu offers 76 acres of activities, though most folks simply swim, wade and sunbathe on the man-made sandy beach. If you do swim here, you must take care, as the channel is deep and, at low tide, you don’t have to venture far to be caught in strong currents. Facilities onshore include food concessions, tennis courts, lifeguard towers, and softball fields. d Map B6
@ Waikīkī Possibly the most famous
beach in the world, Waikīkī has had a facelift, with the installation of lush, grassy berms to block street noise, and an eye-catching waterfall feature. The beach
Souci £ Sans Grown up around a small
resort where Robert Louis Stevenson stayed in the 1880s, Sans Souci is good for swimming, bodysurfing, and boogie boarding. Safe, calm, and shallow, it’s popular with families and also with the gay community. d Map E6
Beach $ Ka’alāwai Reached from a public right of
way at the end of Kulamanu Place off Kāhala Avenue and Diamond Head Road, this narrow, white sand beach is protected by a reef and is safe for swimming and snorkeling. It’s also used for diving, pole fishing and throw-netting, while surfers make spectacular use of breaks in the reef. d Map E6
Beach % Wai’alae County Park
More popular for picnics and weddings than swimming, this Kāhala beach is hemmed in by coral but offers access to coveted windsurfing areas and fishing holes. Watch out for – and keep small children away from – the deep, sometimes fastflowing channel cut by Wai’alae Stream as it enters the sea. d Map E6
Waikīkī
46
Previous pages Surfers, North Shore
Ali’i ( Hale’iwa A popular beach park
for family picnics, swimming, and surfing offshore at Pua’ena Point. The site has restrooms, a shady pavilion, plenty of food concessions, lifeguards, and sports fields too. d Map B2
Hale’iwa Beach
Field Beach ^ Bellows Open to the public on week-
ends and national holidays, this beach park within a military reservation is prized for its broad shelf of powder-fine white sand, turquoise waters and ironwood-shaded campgrounds. Perfect for novice surfers, but watch out for stinging Portuguese man o’war jellyfish.
Bay Beach ) Pōka’i This beautiful beach is the
calmest and safest place for swimming in Wai’anae, so it’s no surprise to find it frequently thronged. It also has an unfortunate but deserved reputation as a place where car break-ins and beach burglaries occur, so take extra care with your belongings. d Map A4
d Map F5 • Camping by permit only
Beach & Lanikai Frequently voted one of the
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golden sand fringe Kailua Bay, which is divided into three sections. The northern-
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world’s best beaches, Lanikai is reached through beach access trails in the ritzy Lanikai neighborhood along 3ĭSĭNHD Mokulua Drive. It’s flat and sandy, quite +DOHŜLZD narrow in spots, and )$ 5 5 , 1 * 7 2 1 + : < popular for swimming, 8B J A BO BF boating, diving, and 0ÃNDKD snorkeling. d Map F4 :DLŜDQDH
Beach * Kailua Two miles of
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
most beaches, Oneawa (with roadside parking) and Kalama (which has a parking lot), are accessed through Kailua neighborhoods. Kailua Beach Park has parking lots, food concessions, a volleyball court, picnic tables, and lifeguard towers. You can surf, windsurf, swim, boat, kayak, canoe, snorkel, and dive here, and the view of Nā Mokulua (“the mokes,” as locals call these tiny islets) is the icing on the cake. d Map F4
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Top 10 Honolulu & O’ahu
Left Waikīkī surfer Right The surf at Ka’ena Point
Surfing Beaches Waterfront ! Kaka’ako Park/Point Panic
Unless you’re highly skilled on a board and ready to join the elite who paddle out to Point Panic every day, this park is strictly for spectators. There’s no beach, swimming is dangerous because the break crashes into the retaining wall, and sharks haunt the area. However, a broad pathway extends the length of the park offering great views, and picnic pavilions are clustered along it. This is also a favorite spot for watching celebratory firework displays over Waikīkī. d Map B6
Moana Beach @ Ala This area is popular for
surfing because if offers a range of challenges from easy and slow Canoes to the more frisky Queen’s, Paradise, and Populars areas. Locals who work in Waikīkī hit the waves before and after work. d Map B6
Makapu’u
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Beach £ Sandy “Sandy’s” is the bodyboarding
capital of O’ahu. Unfortunately, it is also the site of a lot of serious accidents and frequent rescues. A steep drop-off at the sand’s edge means that waves are always pounding here, so only the most experienced should take on this surf, and everyone should take care of the treacherous backwash, which frequently catches waders off-guard. d Map F5
$ Makapu’u The slow rolling shoulders of
the waves and the lack of a reef below make this spot ideal for bodysurfing, plus board surfing is prohibited to prevent collisions. But watch out during high winter surf, and take heed of flag warnings from the lifeguards. d Map F5
Beach % Sunset In winter, this wide, golden
strand is piled high, forming a steep, natural amphitheater for watching surfers attack the awesome waves. In summer, changing tides flatten the beach out, making it more sunbathingfriendly. All year long, though, dangerous currents make swimming risky. There are park facilities across the street. d Map C1
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Point ( Ka’ena State Park
’Ehukai
^ ‘Ehukai ‘Ehukai (“sea spray” in
Hawaiian) is safe for swimming during spring and summer, but during the fall and winter the board surfers take over and it becomes the unofficial viewing stand for observing the action at the world-famous Banzai Pipeline (see below) just to the left of the beach park. d Map C1
d Map A2 • Reached via a 2.5 mile walk
) Mākaha Site of the Mākaha Inter-
national Surfing Contest, the beach here is steep-sloped and wide, with lots of golden sand and deep waters close to shore. The well-formed waves range from medium in the off-season to VERY large in the winter. Stray boards can be a hazard to swimmers. d Map A3
Pipeline & Banzai A shallow coral reef extending out from the beach fronting Ke Nui Road throws up waves of tremendous power and steepness – so powerful that no one thought they could be ridden until the 1960s. Injuries from wiping out on the reef are numerous, but surfers can’t resist these monsters. “Banzai”, by the way, was the final cry of Japanese kamikaze pilots. d Map C1
Bay * Waimea A beach with two
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personalities. Calm as a bathtub in summer, it’s ideal for swimming, kayaking, and snorkeling. Come October and on until April, this beach (where Captain Cook first landed on O’ahu) is crowded with open-mouthed visitors watching surfers from around the world ride the wild surf. d Map B1
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Until the introduction of tow-in surfing, the mammoth waves of Ka’ena Point remained tantalizingly off limits to surfers because of the impossibility of paddling out from the rock-fringed, current-tossed shore. A north swell at Lae o Ka’ena results in 30–40-ft waves and brings out the most daring sorts.
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Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Left Mākaha Golf Course Right Pali Golf Course
Golf Courses visitors from Japan, this Arnold Palmer-designed course offers 27 subtly challenging holes. The flattish terrain is bedeviled by winds, tight fairways, and lots of water. d 91-1200 Ft. Weaver Rd., ‘Ewa Beach • 944 4567 • Map C5 Ala Wai Golf Course
Wai Golf Course ! Ala The world’s busiest course
is also one of the most loved in Hawai’i for its balance of challenge and playability – tradewinds may beat your ball back and slow play can test your patience, but the course is flat, there’s little water, and many friendly locals. d 404
‘Ewa Beach Golf Club £ New This enjoyable semi-private
course designed by Robin Nelson manages to retain the character of the historic dryland ‘Ewa Plain with its kiawe trees and preserved archaeological sites. The tight, manicured fairways and ubiquitous bunkers offer a fair challenge-toreward ratio. d 91-050 Ft. Weaver Rd., ‘Ewa Beach • 689 6565 • Map C5
Kapahulu, Waikīkī • 737 7387 • Map L5
@
Hawai’i Prince Golf Course
Affiliated with the Hawai’i Prince Hotel, and played frequently by
Olina Golf Course $ Ko This emerald oasis carved
out of a dusty plain by designer Ted Robinson is considered one of O’ahu’s most beautiful and challenging courses. It is also equipped with gorgeous distractions, including waterfalls and black swans. Expensive, but lots of discounts available. d 92-1220 Ali’inui Dr., Kapolei • 676 5309 Ext. 1 • Map B5
Resort % Mākaha Golf Club
Ko Olina Golf Course
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This course in a historic valley overlooked by the island’s highest point, Mt. Ka’ala, is worth the
holes, water hazards, and a difficult layout. d 45-550 Kiona’ole Rd., Kāne’ohe, 236 4653 • Map E4
hazards and bunkers, the challenge of this undulating landscape is wet and often windy weather. But even duffers can enjoy meandering down swale and up hillside on sunny days. d 45-050 Kamehameha Highway • 296 2000 • Map E4
Golf Links ( Olomana Though it’s called a links,
Mākaha Golf Course
drive. Eight water hazards, 107 bunkers and a treacherous wind call for strategic thinking. An easier sister course is next door.
this much-played windward side course is in view of, but not right by, the ocean. It’s pretty, with the mountains as a backdrop and a network of ponds, but keep your eye on the ball and watch out for those little lakes. d 41-
d 84-626 Mākaha Valley Road, Wai’anae • 695 9544 • Map A4
Golf Courses ^ The at Turtle Bay
1801 Kalaniana’ole Highway, Waimānalo, 259 7926 • Map F5
Two courses are showcased on this 880-acre resort on O’ahu’s remote North Shore. The George Fazio Course has wide fairways and deep bunkers; the Palmer Course (by Arnie, of course) incorporates a “tropical links” of sun, wind, and sand on the front nine and a forested upland nine on the back. d 57-091 Kamehameha
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Golf Course * Pali In the absence of water
Kai Championship ) Hawai’i Golf Course
This coastal course is a windswept beauty, with narrow fairways, lots of sand, and an ocean view from every tee. Be sure to sign your name on the leaves of the milo or “message” tree. A shorter Executive Course is also available. d 8902 Kalaniana’ole Highway,
Hwy, Kahuku • 293 8574 • Map D1
Maunalua, 395 2358 • Map F5
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Ko’olau Golf Club
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Golfers travel a long and winding road at this course, nestled among the foothills of the dramatic Ko’olau mountain range. It has been rated among the top 100 courses by Golf Magazine and named O’ahu’s best by Golf Digest. Bring lots of extra golf balls and prepare for long
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Island courses are always busy, so make reservations first. Seven days in advance is the maximum allowed by most municipal courses.
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Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Left Kayaking Right Street life, Chinatown
Adventures and Skydiving ! Gliding at Mokulē’ia
Air adventures at Dillingham Airfield include gliding, skydiving, and scenic flights (see opposite). Choose from a 20-minute singleperson glider flight to long scenic flights and lessons. d Dillingham Airfield past Waialua on Farrington Highway, Rte. 930, at Mokulē’ia
at Waikīkī @ Parasailing Hundreds of visitors a day
experience the thrill of parasailing – sitting, strapped in a harness attached to a parachute, pulled along by a boat high above the waves off Waikīkī.
£ Spa-Hopping (Ko Olina to Waikīkī)
Every variety and description of spa is available on O’ahu from
Jet skiing
European-style hydrotherapy to Balinese flower soaking tubs and beauty-oriented treatments. (See pp54–5.)
Skiiing at $ Jet Maunalua Bay
Jet-powered personal watercraft are a noisy – and some would say environmentally unsound – but enjoyable way to skim over the water with the feeling of flying. By law, jet skis are restricted to weekday, daytime hours. Ask about ski/parasailing combo packages.
Kailua % Kayaking and Kāne’ohe
Locals favor kayaking along the Windward Coast, where small islets offer interesting scenery, and there’s a popular sandbar in Kāne’ohe Bay. But many of the islets are bird sanctuaries where landing is prohibited.
Hikes ^ Guided Three non-profit The Windward Coast
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groups, the Sierra Club (538 6616), the
Tours & Walking Regular walking tours of downtown, Chinatown, the Capitol District, Waikīkī, and the University campus are offered by various non-profit groups (see p42). A free map, the Honolulu Historic Trail, offers a self-guided tour.
at Waimānalo and * Polo Mokulē’ia
Polo came to Hawai’i with the moneyed elite, and two polo grounds continue to operate on O’ahu. Matches are held at 2pm on Sundays. d Honolulu Polo Club, Waimānalo Polo Grounds (across from Bellows Beach) • Mokulē’ia Polo Club, 411 Farrington Highway in Mokulē’ia
Lū’au ( The Experience
To experience an authentic Hawaiian feast (lū’au), you have to find a family giving one. If that’s not possible, try the Polynesian Cultural Center (see pp26–7) or other commercial operations. d Paradise Cove Lū’au, Ko Olina (842 5911) • Germaine’s Lū’au, Kalaeloa/Barber’s Point (941 3338) • Royal Lū’au at the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, Waikīkī (931 7194), Mon only
)
Shopping Mo’ili’ili/Kaimukī
Some of the most wonderful shops in the city are missed by many visitors. Head along South King Street in the 2700 block in Mo’ili’ili and on Wai’alae Avenue from 9th to 13th Streets in Kaimukī to discover everything from sophisticated hand-printed dresses to Hawaiian instruments and craft supplies.
Top 10 Rental Places and Commercial Tours Hawai’i ! Soar Sailplanes Operates at Dillingham Airfield. d 637 3147 • www.soarhawaii.com
Glider @ Original Rent a glider at Dillingham. d 677 3404
£ Skydive Hawai’i
Also at Dillingham Airfield, solo flights for experienced skydivers and instructor flights for novices. d 637 9700 • www.hawaiiskydiving.com
$ Hawaiian Parasail
This is the recognized expert, offering daily flights lasting eight to 10 minutes for around $40. Flights depart from Kewalo Basin with free pickup from Waikīkī Hotels. d 591 1280
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Nature Conservancy (587 6220), and Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club (674 1459), offer frequent hikes with the last group definitely on the hardier side.
% Fishbowl Tours
Jet skiing and other activities at Maunalua Bay. Transport from Waikīkī. d 944 3474
Breeze Parasailing ^ Sea Operator based at Maunalua Bay. d 396 0100 • www.seabreezewatersports.com
Watersports & Hawai’i Also at Maunalua Bay, offering a variety of rental equipment. d 395 3773 • www. hawaiiwatersportscenter.com
Twogood * Bob Kayaks Hawai’i Reputable firm on the Windward Coast. d 262 5656 • www.twogoodkayaks.com
Sailboards ( Kailua and Kayaks Another good firm. d 262 2555 • www.kailuasailboards.com
Ecotourism ) Hawaii Association For commercial operations offering guided hikes, consult this association. d 235 5431 • www.hawaiiecotourism.org
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Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Left 24-Hour Fitness Right Ampy’s
Spas and Fitness Centers Fitness ! 24-Hour As the name im-
plies, this national chain offers a ‘round the clock opportunity to work up a sweat. There are three clubs in Honolulu, one in Waikīkī, and four others dotted around O’ahu; most offer shortterm passes. d 923 9090 • www.24HourFitness.com
Paul Brown Salon and Day Spa
Brown @ Paul Salon and Day Spa
Two of Paul Brown’s locations – one at Victoria Ward Center in Honolulu and the other at Waikele – are probably the most comprehensive and arguably the best of the independent day spas on O’ahu. d 1200 Ala Moana Blvd., Honolulu • 591 1881 • www.paulbrownhawaii.com
Spa £ Serenity Hawai’i
Located in the Outrigger Reef on the Beach Hotel (see p116), you can charge your spa services to your room if you’re a guest at any of the 23 Outrigger or
‘Ohana properties. Massages are offered poolside, while pampering wedding packages are a popular way to feel treated like ali’i (royalty). d 2169 Kālia Rd., Diamond Head Tower • 926 2882 • serenityspahawaii.com
$ Ampy’s A Day Spa
An award-winning day spa, Ampy’s specializes in massage, body treatments, and facials, including the latest laser and dermabrasion techniques. Owner Ampy and her daughter Nicole both have European training. Enjoy a single treatment or a spa package. d 1441 Kapi’olani Boulevard, Suite 377, 946 3838 • www.Ampys.com
Hair Studio % Allure and Day Spa
One of Honolulu’s leading spas, this one bills itself as an “experience center.” A full range of pampering treatments is offered, with Aveda brand products to the fore. d 2801 E. Mānoa Rd. • 988 3350 Ampy’s
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• www.allurehawaii.com
Hatch Physical ^ Clark Fitness Center
d 745 Fort St. • 536 7205 • www.clarkhatchfitness.com
&
Heaven on Earth Downtown Day Spa
The place of respite for harried downtown workers is equally agreeable to harried tourists in need of a stress-relieving massage. Owner Lora Nakai wants the feeling of wellness to last, and encourages therapists to impart helpful tips to clients. d Bishop Square, 1050 Alakea St. • 599 5501 • www.heavenonearthhawaii.com
Healing Arts * Aloha A skilled massage therapist
with almost two decades of experience, Fran Rose offers Swedish massage, reflexology, shiatsu, sports massage, acupressure, and iridology. d 1831 Ala Moana
Blvd., No. 202 • 386 1820 • www.alohahealingarts.com
(
Marsha Nadalin Salon & Spa
If chic and upscale Kahala Mall is on your list of shopping stops, you can be rejuvenated at this day spa right in the shopping center. Men’s services are available, too. d Kahala Mall • 737 8505
Lomi Shop ) The When you’ve shopped until
you’re ready to drop at Windward Mall, duck into The Lomi Shop, which specializes in traditional Hawaiian massage techniques. Try a reviving 10minute foot massage. d Windward
! Steam/Sauna
The steam room is wet, the sauna dry, and either one will open the body’s pores in readiness for other treatments.
Baths @ Botanical Aromatherapy oils, herbs, and seaweeds are added to whirlpool tubs to either calm or re-energize the body.
Scrubs £ Herbal Scrubs use ingredients such as native red clay and island sea salts to exfoliate, detoxify, and soften the skin.
Wraps $ Herbal Wraps use herbs and the application of heat to draw out impurities from the skin.
% Massage Shiatsu, Swedish, and Thai
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
With a network of centers throughout Asia and the Pacific, founder Clark Hatch’s philosophy is “total fitness.” Trained instructors create individual programs to promote a lifetime of well-being.
Top 10 Health and Beauty Treatments
styles are available, but why not try Hawai’i’s traditional lomilomi or the newer Pōhaku (stone) massage.
^ Facials Designed to clean and rehydrate the face; choices depend on skin type and individual needs.
& Aromatherapy Integrated into many spa treatments, natural fragrances are used to invoke a specific mood or feeling.
* Manicure/Pedicure The perfect way to end a day at the spa, manicures and pedicures always include a short hand and/or foot massage.
( Makeup
Every salon has experts on hand for a professional application of makeup.
) Fitness All gyms and many spas have work-out machines, free weights, pools, and fitness classes.
Mall • 234 5664
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Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Left Poi with fish Center Shave ice Right Fruit stall
Local Dishes
! Poi The staple of the
meat comes in many varieties, from teriyaki beef to pork and variously prepared chicken.
Hawaiian diet, poi is made by pounding to a paste the corm of the taro or kalo plant – a task that is strictly a male preserve. Traditional Hawaiians believe their culture to be descended from a kalo plant, signifying the symbolic importance of this food.
Sashimi, $ Sushi, and Poke
The primary Japanese culinary influences are sashimi (sliced raw Sushi fish) and sushi (raw fish, shellfish, or vegetables, served on top of, or rolled with, rice). Poke, the Hawaiian word Kālua Pork for diced or chopped, is Hawai’i’s The centerpiece of any lū’au, version of Tahitian poisson cru or feast, is the whole pig, slowand Latin American ceviche. roasted (kālua) in an underground These delicious raw fish-based oven – an imu. The meat literally dishes are available everywhere from fine dining restaurants to falls from the bones. The same local supermarkets. cooking method works equally well with turkey, squash, and sweet potatoes. Noodles and Rice Few meals in Hawai’i are Plate Lunch served without rice, and those that Meat,two scoops of rice, are usually come with noodles. and macaroni salad. Those are the Indeed, noodles in hot broth with three essential elements of the pork and green onions is a plate lunch. Sold on every street common dish for breakfast, lunch, corner in Hawai’i, it represents or dinner, and leftover dinner rice the melding of cultures, and the often reappears as fried rice for the next day’s breakfast.
@
£
%
Sweet Bread ^ Portuguese and Bean Soup
Lū’au (feast)
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Fresh from the oven and slathered with creamy butter is the best way to enjoy this wonderful bread, brought by Hawai’i’s Portuguese immigrants. Originally baked in outdoor brick ovens, it is now available at markets throughout the islands. Every
Chee & Kim Brought by Hawai’i’s Korean immigrants, kim chee is simply pickled cabbage, but for those who love hot – that is, VERY HOT – flavors, it is a “must try.” Traditionally, the cabbage is stored in tightly sealed jars and buried in the ground, then dug up as and when needed.
* Mango, papaya, guava, liliko’i Tropical Fruit
(passion fruit), bananas, and, of course, pineapple. Pure and simple right off the tree, blended into a delicious fruit smoothie, or transformed into an amazing dessert, these are truly paradisiacal flavors.
Ice ( Shave It has other names in other
places – snow cone is one – but it is simply small chips of ice, flavored with one or more of myriad syrups, served in a paper cone. Cool and refreshing on a hot summer day, the rainbow variety shave ice has become a virtual symbol of Hawai’i.
) Yes, it’s true. One of the Spam
most maligned foods in history is one of Hawai’i’s most popular and beloved. Canned Spiced Ham (SPAM) was originally known as a military staple since it’s easy to keep for long periods of time. It is, perhaps, the large military presence in Hawai’i that first accounted for its curious popularity in the islands.
Local Food Stops Village Noodle ! Little House An adorable place, the menu offering a full range of regional Chinese specialties. d 1113 Smith St., Honolulu • Map H3
Delicatessen & @ Gulick Coffee Shop The quintessential plate lunch place, with piled-high specials daily. d 1512 Gulick Ave., Honolulu • Map D5
Street Inn £ Side After work hangout of Honolulu’s chefs, offering savory bar food. d 1225 Hopaka, Honolulu • Map E6
$ Kaka’ako Kitchen
A plate lunch place owned by a high-end chef. Great pastries too. d 1200 Ala Moana Blvd, Honolulu • Map B6
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
family in Hawai’i, whether of Portuguese heritage or not, has its own Portuguese bean soup recipe. Brimming with beans, meat, and vegetables, it can be a hearty meal unto itself, especially when accompanied by a thick slice of sweet bread.
Lion Coffee % Hungry Shop Open 24 hours, serving snacks and Japanese dishes. d 1613 Nu’uanu Ave., Honolulu • Map J1
Hawaiian Food ^ Helena’s Helena’s has proffered some of the best traditional Hawaiian food since 1946. d 1240 N. School St., Honolulu • Map D5
& Tokkuri-Tei A Japanese izakaya (tavern) with an innovative East-West menu. d 611 Kapahulu Ave., Honolulu • Map M7
* Big City Diner
The deal here is burgers – BIG burgers. d 3569 Wai’alae Ave., Honolulu • Map E6
Saimin ( Palace The best place for Hawai’i’s favorite comfort food: steaming bowls of noodles. d 1256 N. King St., Honolulu • Map G1
Restaurants ) Zippy’s A widespread chain of two dozen O’ahu-style diners, serving simple, hearty food.
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57
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
Left La Mer Right Alan Wong’s Restaurant
Restaurants
! Chai’s Island Bistro
Exceptionally well prepared Asian fusion food, music by some of the islands’ bestknown entertainers, classy interior decor, and courtyard dining characterize this orchidbedecked spot (see p69). d Aloha Tower Marketplace, Honolulu • Map H4 • 585 0011 • $$$$
@
Chef Mavro
Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar
Sushi bar, fine dining restaurant, fashionable cocktail lounge, karaoke palace – Sansei is all these. The name means third generation and implies the East-West sophistication that the grandchildren of the immigrant generation have achieved. d Waikīkī Beach Marriott Resort & Spa – 2552 Kalākaua Ave., Honolulu • Map M7 • 931 6286 • $$$
House £ Steak The Waikīkī Marriott hosts a
steakhouse experience that rivals any in the state, complete with in-house dry aged beef and a unique wine list. Take a balcony table for breathtaking views of Waikīkī Beach. d Waikīkī Beach Marriott Resort, 2552 Kalākaua Ave., Honolulu • Map M7 • 931 6280 • $$$$$
Mavro $ Chef This award-winning French-
with-an-island-touch restaurant expresses the character of owner
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George Mavrothassitis – precise, passionate and absolutely individual. Exceptional wines by the glass are matched to each dish, and the service is impeccable (see p69). d 1969 S. King St., Honolulu • Map M3 • 944 4714 • $$$$$
Wong’s Restaurant % Alan Hailed by many as Hawai’i’s
best restaurant, Alan Wong’s marries local preferences with a formal setting. The food – unusual seafood preparations and amazing sauces – is delicious; the atmosphere relaxed and convivial. Great wine list (see p69). d 1857 S. King St., Honolulu • Map M3 • 949 2526 • $$$$$
^ Michel’s Old World elegance, sunset
views of Waikīkī, and outstanding professional service make Michel’s a favorite of romantics (many a proposal has taken place here). Authentic French fare and an inviting Sunday brunch satisfy gourmands. d 2895 Kalākaua Ave., Honolulu • Map M7 • 923 6552 • $$$$$
For more great restaurants and the key to price categories see pp69, 74, 81, 89, 95 & 101
& LaTheMer best and most authen-
d Halekulani Hotel, 2199 Kālia Rd., Honolulu • Map J7 • 923 2311 • $$$$$
on the Rise * 3660 With an understanding for
what Hawaiians like, this compact, ever-busy neighborhood bistro has specialties such as Hawaiian clay salt steak. They offer small plates, vegetarian options, and tasting menus, too. d 3660 Wai’alae Ave., Honolulu • Map E6 • 737 1177 • Dinner only; closed Mon • $$$$
( Hoku’s An airy wood-paneled room,
a view of the ocean, and a multicultural menu that ranges from tandoori specialties to wok cooking – “rustic international cuisine,” as they describe it. d Kahala Hotel & Resort, 5000 Kāhala Ave., Honolulu • Map E6 • 739 8780 • $$$$$
Restaurant ) Roy’s Roy Yamaguchi founded the first O’ahu restaurant of note in 1988. Here he offers the same spicy mixture that is his signature – creative cuisine that roams from Japan to Mexico.
d 6600 Kalaniana’ole Hwy., Honolulu • Map E6 • 396 7697 • $$$$
! Local Greens
Small farms grow dozens of varieties of lettuce and greens for Hawai’i’s restaurants.
@ Vine-Ripened Tomatoes Much juicier and tastier than their mainland cousins. Growers on all the islands now nurture this important ingredient.
£ Moi Once enjoyed exclusively by ali’i (royalty), this small, delicate fish is now on menus throughout the islands.
Fruit $ Tropical Chefs make excellent use of pineapple, papaya, guava, liliko’i, and lychee in salsas, sauces, and desserts.
% Local Fishes
Top 10 of Honolulu & O’ahu
tically French restaurant in Hawai’i makes lavish use of both local seafood and imported delicacies to create “cuisine de soleil,” a cuisine of the sun with a distinctly Provençal bent. Formal dress.
Top 10 Regional Ingredients
A myriad variety of local fishes – like mahimahi, ahi, opakapaka, onaga – forms the foundation of Hawai’i cuisine.
Sweet ^ Moloka’i Potatoes With their brilliant purple flesh, these wonderful potatoes add color as well as flavor to dishes.
& Corn Chefs delight in using sweet, locally grown corn – both white and yellow corn is cultivated in the islands.
Lobster * Slipper Smaller than their Maine cousins; it is the sweet tail meat that is prized most.
( Pohole These bright green, crunchy, and delicious ferns grow in East Maui and are often served with tomatoes.
Meat ) Local Beef, lamb, even elk and venison are produced by Hawai’i ranches and used extensively by local chefs. Roy’s Restaurant
Recommend your favorite restaurant on traveldk.com
59
AROUND O‘AHU
Waikīkī 70–75 North Shore 76–81 Central & Leeward O‘ahu 84–89 Windward O‘ahu 90–95 South Shore 96–101
AROUND O‘AHU
Honolulu 62–69
Around O’ahu – Honolulu
Left Yacht harbor Center Chai’s Island Bistro Right Hilton Hawaiian Village
Honolulu
H
ONOLULU SOMETIMES GETS A BAD RAP for being overcrowded, traffic-
bound, parking-starved, and noisy. It is all of those things, but in an island kind of way, which is to say, it’s not nearly as busy as almost any other major U.S. city. Honolulu’s civic role is both that of state capital and seat of the City and County of Honolulu government, but, above all, this is a cosmopolitan center. Full of historic interest, the city is a great jumping-off point for all kinds of tourism, from guided walks to inter-island cruises. Though downtown tends to go dark after 5pm, its daytime life is all you could ask for, while the port and Chinatown districts stay lively into the small hours.
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Around O’ahu – Honolulu
Weighted with lei (garlands) this hillside resting and symbolism, this excepplace founded in 1844 tionally life-like bronze read like a who’s who sculpture of Hawai’i’s of Hawai’i history, from last queen stands on the the humble to the highsouth grounds of the class. Nanette Napoleon, State Capitol (see pp12–13). “the cemetery lady,” In her hand she holds a copy has written a guidebook of her evocative and leads periodic tours composition Aloha ‘Oe, – both are worth the 1893 Constitution, seeking out. d 2162 and the Kumu Lipo, Nu’uanu Ave. • Map B6 Hawai’i’s creation • 538 1538 • 7am–6pm story. Ho’okupu (gift daily • Free • www.oahu Statue of Lili’uokalani offerings) are often left cemetery.org here by sovereignty activists who revere this queen, who was Royal Mausoleum forced to give up the monarchy The mausoleum is overseen under protest. d Map J3 by Hawai’i’s only hereditary state office because the sacred duty Hawaii Theatre to look after the graves is based Center on genealogy. It contains the The historic 1922 movie palace, bones of post-contact Hawaiian the interior of which has been royalty, except for Kamehameha fully restored, is a perfect Nui, who was interred in an Rococo jewel box and fills a unknown Hawai’i Island location much-needed niche for a in accordance with custom, and smallish, acoustically sound Liholiho, whose grave is at theater facility in Honolulu. The Kawaiaha’o. A koa-lined coral block chapel dating to 1865 Hana Hou! (Encore!) Hawaiian forms the cemetery’s centerMusic Series offers first-rate piece, surrounded by the graves traditional and contemporary and vaults of the various family Hawaiian concerts. d 1130 Bethel groups. d 2261 Nu’uanu Ave • Map B6 St. • Map H2 • 528 0506 • www.hawaii
@
theatre.com • Tours: Tue 11am
• 536 7602 • Mon–Fri • Free
Left Monument at Punchbowl Cemetery Right Royal Mausoleum
63
Around O’ahu – Honolulu
Pali Lookout % Nu’uanu Famous as much for its
hair-flying winds as for its blood-soaked history, this vantage point is where Kamehameha the Conqueror did final battle with O’ahu warriors (see p30). The latter either jumped to their deaths or fought until they were pushed over the cliff edge rather than give in. This atmospheric site is sometimes cold and misty, but always spectacular and spooky. d Off Pali Highway
Emma ^ Queen Summer Palace
Hānaiakamalama, a modest white, wood-frame house with high ceilings and deep Bishop Street, part of Nu’uanu Cultural District porches, was the perfect warm-weather retreat, just far The Duck enough up the Nu’uanu Heights That odd-looking, green-andfrom Honolulu to catch chilly yellow vehicle that you are likely to see in downtown Honolulu is breezes. Queen Emma (née “The Duck,” a WWII-vintage Rooke), who married King amphibious landing craft (DUKW Kamehameha IV in 1856, inheritwas a manufacturer’s acronym), ed the home from her uncle. It refitted for open-air touring. Call was slated for destruction in the 524 0008 to book a trip. early 1900s, but saved by the Daughters of Hawai’i organization, who now operate it as a historical volcanic crater, offers extraordinary museum. d 2913 Pali Highway • Map views and a humbling sense of the human sacrifice brought C6 • 595 3167 • 9am–4pm daily • Adm about by various Pacific wars.
Cemetery & Punchbowl Among O’ahu’s most visited
sites, the National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific, spectacularly situated inside a
d Map L1 • 2177 Puowaina Dr. • 532 3720 • 8am–6:30pm daily • American Legion members lead tours for a fee Museum * Contemporary A gracious family property on
Makiki Heights overlooking Honolulu has become a worldclass art center, showcasing cutting-edge work. There are delightful gardens, a quirky gift shop, and an exceptional café.
Queen Emma Summer Palace
64
d 2411 Makiki Heights Dr. • Map C6 • 526 0232 • 10am–4pm Tue–Sat, noon– 4pm Sun • Adm (free third Thu of month)
For the Bishop Museum see pp10–11; ‘Iolani Palace pp14–15; Hawai’i Maritime Center pp16–17; Honolulu Academy of Arts pp18–19
Morning in Chinatown Early Morning
Cultural District ( Nu’uanu Also known as Gallery Row,
this area is a blended community of shops, restaurants, theaters, churches, and bars between downtown and Chinatown proper. The best time to get a sense of its rich life is on the first Friday evening of each month, when galleries and boutiques hold the First Friday Gallery Walk and stay open until 9pm, offering wine and pūpū (snacks), music, and opportunities to meet the artists. Even if your timing is off, you can pick up a Gallery Walk self-guided tour map at any area gallery. d Between Nimitz and Beretania,
River and Bishop Sts. • Map H3
) Honolulu’s newest park – in
Kaka’ako Waterfront Park
its most-changed neighborhood on the waterfront between Sand Island and Ala Moana Beach Park – offers grassy knolls, views from ‘Ewa to Diamond Head, picnic pavilions, a walking path, and a chance to watch the surfers up close at the infamous Point Panic. d Map B6
Part of David Hockney’s L’Enfant et les Sortilèges at the Contemporary Museum
The area between River and Nu’uanu, Beretania and King is great for small gifts — sandalwood soap, painted fans, kitchen tools, Chinese pottery, dried persimmons, and red-andgold good luck banners. You can watch the butchers chop char siu (barbecue pork) so fast it looks like sleight of hand. Buy some fresh fruit to take back to the hotel.
Around O’ahu – Honolulu
Punchbowl Cemetery
Chinatown is best enjoyed right after breakfast, when the stands overflow with locally grown fruits and vegetables, imported Asian goods, Pacific fish, freshly made noodles, and every possible part of the chicken and pig. Wear comfortable shoes, dress for sunshine, and park at one of the less expensive municipal lots on Smith or Maunakea Streets.
Late Morning When you’ve had enough, head mauka (toward the mountains) on River Street until you meet up with North Vineyard Street. There you’ll find the gorgeously arrayed Kuan Yin Temple (see p66) and cool, green Foster Botanical Gardens (see p40). Explore a bit before turning back toward Chinatown for lunch. Try one of the popular restaurants in Chinatown, such as A Little Bit of Saigon (Vietnamese, on Nu’uanu), Mei Sum (dim sum on Smith), Little Village Noodle House (Chinese on Smith), To Chau (pho soup on River), or the stuffed French bread sandwiches at Ba-Le (on King).
For more on the Capitol District see pp12–13 For the Chinatown area see map H1–J2
65
Around O’ahu – Honolulu
Left Alexander & Baldwin Building Center Linekona Art Center Right Ala Wai Yacht Harbor
Best of the Rest Andrew’s Cathedral ! St. The Gothic-vaulted building,
with its 25-bell carillon and stainedglass West Window, took nearly 100 years to build. d Beretania & Q. Emma streets • Map J2 • 524 2822 • Daily • Free
& @ Alexander Baldwin Building
The 1929 terracotta and tile A&B Building epitomizes Territorial period Hawaiian architecture. Asian, Mediterranean and island influences are filtered through the quintessential Hawaiian architects, C. W. Dickey and Hart Wood.
Art Center ^ Linekona Exhibitions and sales of
various art societies. The work is often very affordable. d 1111 Victoria St. • 532 8741
Center for Asian & TEMARI and Pacific Arts
This art group got its start when a few crafters met in 1979 to share their knowledge of Asian arts. Now the center hosts prestigious classes. d 1754 Lusitana St. (Hongpa Hongwanji Temple) • Map K2 • 536 4566
of Hawai’i * University Two self-guided walking tours
d Bishop and Merchant streets • Map J3
focus on the plant life and art work on the campus. d Info from Campus
Museum at £ Contemporary First Hawaiian Bank
Center: 956 7235 • www.hawaii.edu
Temporary exhibitions are held in the bank’s marble lobby and in a series of second-floor galleries. d 999 Bishop St. • Map J2 • 526 0232 • 8:30am–4pm Mon–Thu (6pm Fri) • Free
Yin Temple $ Kuan Light bounces off the multi-
colored exterior of this Chinese place of worship; inside, incense drifts and the goddess of mercy looks on as devotees pray. d 170
Drive ( Tantalus The loop drive from Makiki
Street up Round Top Drive, and along Tantalus Drive is not to be missed – picnic along the way at Pu’u ‘Ualaka’a Park. d Map E5
Wai Canal ) Ala With a wide path all along its
length, the canal offers a lovely evening’s walk, ending at the Ala Wai Yacht Harbor. d Map G6 :< + / , 3DXRD
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the queen, where she picnicked to the tinkling sounds of Nu’uanu Stream. d Waikahalulu Lane, off
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23
67
3$
N. Vineyard Blvd • Map H1 • 533 6361 • Daily • Free
For more information about art exhibitions and classes in Honolulu, visit www.temaricenter.com
0ÂQRD
Theaters & Music Venues Community Theatre ! Army Though it’s located on a
and most other symphonic events. d 777 Ward Ave. • Map L3 • 591 2211
military base, this venerable organization is a true community theater, attracting actors and audiences from around the island. Their standard fare is the familiar musical. d Richardson
pioneering heart surgeon who endowed it, is used for recitals, dance, and performances.
Theatre, Ft. Shafter • 438 4480
d 3142 Wai’alae Ave. • 739 7777
Theatre & Mamiya Mamiya, named after the
Theatre Center F. Kennedy @ Hawaii * John This one-time movie theater Theatre has been wonderfully renovated, and now offers a full and varied season of everything from hula hālau fundraisers to visiting dance companies (see also p63). d 1130
Bethel St. • Map H2 • Box office: 528 0506
The campus theater includes a 600-seat main theater and a smaller Earle Ernst Lab Theatre. The season includes plays and musicals, and Kabuki and Noh Japanese theater. d 1770 East-West
Around O’ahu – Honolulu
Left Neal S. Blaisdell Concert Hall Center Hawaii Theatre Right Diamond Head Theatre
Rd., UH campus • 956 7655
£ The focus of this 100-seat Kumu Kahua
d 46 Merchant St. • Map H3 • 536 4441
Theatre $ Tenney A small theater that hosts
frequent choral recitals. d 229 Queen Emma Sq. • Map J2 • 524 2822
%
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When Honolulu lands a rock show or traveling circus, this basic hall is where it happens. d 777
Valley Theatre ( Manoa This small but highly
respected theater is a former church hall out in a graveyard in misty Mānoa Valley. d 2833 E. Mānoa Rd. • 988 6131
Head Theatre ) Diamond The largest of the community
theaters offers beloved musicals to pidgin English fairy tales, contemporary drama to comedy.
d 520 Makapu’u Ave., Kaimukī • 733 0274 3$
experimental theater is new work from around the Pacific.
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67
Around O’ahu — Honolulu
Left Gordon Biersch Brewery Right Rumours Nightclub
Bars and Clubs Island ! Sand Sports Club
reggae parties, hip-hop DJ nights, and sexy Friday parties. d 805
Off the beaten path, this club offers blues and rhythm & blues for a 30s-up, beer-drinking, leather-clad crowd. d 197 Sand
Pohukaina St. • Map B6 • 589 1999
Island Access Rd • Map B6 • 847 5001
delicious pūpū (snacks) menu and be mesmerized by the colored bottles in the backbar. d Ward Center,
@ Indigo This beautiful Chinatown
spot has an award-winning Eurasian restaurant, crowded terrace bar, and the Opium Den – a hip champagne bar. d 1121 Nu’uanu Ave. • Map H2 • 521 2900
Biersch £ Gordon The pier-side bar becomes a
club on weekends – one of the few where you can boogie outdoors. There’s live music sometimes, with the fare tending to contemporary rock. d Aloha Tower Marketplace • Map H4 • 599 4877
Grill & Ryan’s Munch your way through the
1200 Ala Moana • Map B6 • 591 9132
Tai Bar * Mai Very much a local favorite,
this bar has live Jawaiian (local reggae) music, comfy couches, and a lounge style. d Ala Moana Shopping Center • Map B6 • 947 2900
Nightclub ( Rumours This dress-up club, popular
with locals and Japanese tourists, is packed with young things in tight outfits dancing to Top 40 pop and local rock. d Ala Moana Hotel, 410 Atkinson Dr. • Map G5 • 955 4811
$
Loft Gallery and Lounge
Huge paper lanterns, sheer curtains, and chandeliers make this one of the most attractive clubs on the island. The tiny nooks and couches are ideal for romantics. d 115 Hotel St. • Map J3 • 688 8813
Bannana’s ) Anna Aging hippies and blues
hounds adore this time-warped tavern, with its darts games, grizzled regulars, and upstairs weekend gigs. d 2440 S. Beretania • Map L2 • 946 5190 7
36
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Price Categories Price categories include a three-course meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all unavoidable extra charges including tax.
$ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$
under $20 $20–$30 $30–$45 $45–$60 over $60
Places to Eat Choy’s Breakfast, ! Sam Lunch, and Crab
Sam Choy creates updated versions of islanders’ favorites, notably seafood. The huge portions and laidback style are dearly loved by a loyal local clientele. d 580 N. Nimitz Highway • Map G2 • 545 7979 • $$$
Eurasian Cuisine @ Indigo Chef Glenn Chu has created
a high-tone, pan-Asian restaurant, split between a cool, restrained dining room and a more casual patio.
from bacon and cheese to salsa and pineapple. d Ward Village Shops, 1116 Auahi St. • Map M4 • 591 9133 • $
Sistina & Café Even if the Northern Italian
food here wasn’t scrumptious, you’d still have to go just to see chef-owner Sergio Mitrotti’s wall and ceiling murals. d 1314 S. King St. • Map M3 • 596 0061 • $$$
Mavro * Chef Small, award-winning rest-
d 1121 Nu’uanu, Chinatown • Map H2 • 521 2900 • Closed Sun & Mon • $$$$
aurant offering “France-Hawai’i cuisine.” Much focuses on the freshest local seafood (see p58.)
Island Bistro £ Chai’s This beautiful, high-ceilinged,
d 1969 S. King St. • Map M3 • 944 4714
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local bakery churns out warm, handmade malassadas (Portuguese doughnuts). d 933 Kapahulu
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Bakery ) Leonard’s Founded in 1952, this beloved
0$
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King St. • Map M3 • 949 2526 • $$$$$
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Fukui presents a fusion of European and Asian cuisines. The walls feature frequently changing works by local artists. d 500 Ala
in Hawai’i, where European style is married with the best island techniques (see p58.) d 1857 S.
36
Eurasion Tapas $ Hiroshi Award-winning chef Hiroshi
Wong’s Restaurant ( Alan Probably the best restaurant
+2
Marketplace • Map H4 • 585 0011 • $$$$
• Dinner only • Closed Mon • $$$$$
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flower-bedecked restaurant, complete with fountain courtyard, serves well-presented Asian fusion cuisine (see p58). d Aloha Tower
Around O’ahu — Honolulu
Left Asian cuisine at Chai’s Island Bistro Right Chef Mavro
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals
69
Around O’ahu — Waikīkī
Left Beach life Center The waterfront at dusk Right U.S. Army Museum
Waikīkī
W
AIKĪKĪ, the famous resort area containing the
Sights
most sought-after real estate in an island chain full of sought-after real estate, has been undergoing a facelift in recent years. Hundreds of millions of dollars have been plowed into renovations. Numerous hotels are upgrading; the International Market Place is returning to its romantic origins; the grassy walks along Waikīkī Beach now bloom with plantings; statuary has been erected commemorating historic figures; and the Kapi’olani Park Bandstand has been rebuilt. All the more reason the inhabitants say, “E komo mai!”, or “Welcome!”, to visitors.
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For more on Waikīkī’s central sights along Kalākaua Avenue see pp20–21
! Hawai’i Convention Center
Ave. • Map K6 • 943 3500 for tour info • www.hawaiiconventioncenter.com • 8am–5pm weekdays
Army Museum @ U.S. It’s been called “Waikīkī’s
best-kept secret” – a welldesigned free museum celebrating the U.S. Army’s manyfaceted history in the Pacific. It covers Hawai’i’s “Go for Broke” 100th Infantry Battalion, Waikīkī as a Vietnam War R & R center, and more. d Battery Randolph, Kālia
Road, Fort DeRussy • Map J7 • 438 2821 • 10am–4:15pm Tue–Sun
Tea House £ Urasenke Teaching Cha-do, the Way of Tea, a ceremony meant to both relax and focus the mind, is the mission of this center endowed
International Market Place
by the Urasenke Organization in Kyoto. Tea ceremonies are held Wednesdays and Fridays at 10am and 11am; wear comfortable clothes (not shorts). d 245 Saratoga Rd. • Map J6 • 923 3059 • Donation $3
Market Place $ International The 50+-year-old market
Around O’ahu — Waikīkī
A contemporary masterpiece of glass and soaring white columns, the Convention Center, across the Ala Wai bridge from Waikīkī proper, was dedicated in 1998 and contains dozens of artworks and more than a million square feet of meeting space. Lecture tours are held on Wednesdays and Thursdays. d 1801 Kalākaua
place, originally a fanciful shopping area and cultural park, underwent a multi-million-dollar renovation project through 2007. Expect pathways beneath spreading trees and across ponds that recall the area’s illustrious past, when it was Queen Emma’s garden. You will also find a performance area, a low-rise shopping and food hall, and spots for hula, artisans, and storytellers.
d 2330 Kalākaua Ave. • Map K6
Waikīkī Beach
71
Around O’ahu — Waikīkī
Left Kūhiō Beach Right Changing of the guard at King’s Village
Beach % Waikīkī This unassuming strip of
white sand covered with halfclothed bodies, surfboard racks, and gawking tourists is what the beach is all about. You might think only visitors use it, but you’ll see surfers, daily exercisers, canoe clubs, and other locals enjoying Hawai’i’s best-known beach, too. Dawn and dusk are ideal times to visit (see also p46.) d Map L7
(Wizard) Stones ^ Kahuna The four misshapen slabs at
Kūhiō Beach represent four mysterious historical figures called Kapaemahu (“people of a changeable nature”). These men came to Hawai’i from abroad and lived with the islanders, curing and educating them. The stones were erected in their memory and have since occupied various locations, currently gathered at the beach formerly known as Ulukou. d Kūhiō
Waikīkī Magic At the far western end of Waikīkī is Magic Island, a man-made green peninsula lined with walkways and ending in a sandy lagoon and rock wall popular with fishermen. End the day here, watching the soft light fall and the canoe teams ready for the next regatta. Keep an eye open for the “green flash” at sunset. Parking is free.
delegate to the U.S. Congress. During his lifetime he opened the beach near his home to the public, and left it to the city when he died. d Map L7
Village * King’s This cobblestone shopping
mall recreates the period of David Kalākaua, the last Hawaiian king,
Beach, Kalākaua Ave. • Map L7
Beach & Kūhiō Once known as
Hamohamo, this area was the location of Pualeilani, the beach home of Queen Kapi’olani and later her adopted son, Prince Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana’ole, a Kahuna (Wizard) Stones
72
• Map L6 • 237 6344 • 9am–11pm daily
Bandstand ( Kapi’olani The current, vaguely Victorian
stone structure – a spacious circular stage with a peaked roof held up by a series of pillars – is the fourth incarnation of a bandstand first built in the 1880s. It’s a popular venue for concerts and often used for informal jam sessions. d Map C7
Head Crater ) Diamond Hawai’i’s most-recognized
landmark watches over Waikīkī, its sculpted slopes shadowy green in rainy season, parched brown at other times. In addition to the trail within the crater, a three-mile loop walk allows you to see the changeable peak from a full circle. Start where Monsarrat Avenue meets Diamond Head Road and proceed in either direction (see also pp21, 38 & 42). d Map C7
The Waikīkī Trail Morning Don’t waste your time wandering around with a map on your first day in Waikīkī. Instead, take the highly regarded tour along the Waikīkī Historic Trail, led by members of the Native Hawaiian Hospitality Association, who will introduce you to sites of importance to the host culture. The tour is available by appointment only, for a fee. The meeting point is by the waterfall at Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center (call 628 6370 for more details). The trail was the brainchild of the late visionary George S. Kanahele, a pioneer of cultural tourism. It’s marked by a series of sculpted surfboards imprinted with photographs, maps, and information at 23 locations around the neighborhood.
Around O’ahu — Waikīkī
who ruled from 1874–91. Mock 19th-century shops sell souvenirs, clothing, and jewelry, and there are various food stalls and themed restaurants. Entertainment is provided by street artists and hula dancers. d 131 Ka’iulani Ave.
Stopping points include a former residence of Queen Lili’uokalani; the villa of Chun Afong, who was Hawai’i’s first Chinese millionaire; the vast coconut grove of Helumoa; and a war camp of Kamehameha the Great.
Late Morning The tour lasts about an hour-and-a-half, after which you have plenty of time to stroll some more or do some shopping. Stop for lunch at the Hau Tree Lanai at the east end of Waikīkī (see p74). Here you can sit right where Robert Louis Stevenson did in 1893 as he penned stories about the South Pacific. Diamond Head Crater
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73
Price Categories $ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$
Around O’ahu – Waikīkī
Price categories include a three-course meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all unavoidable extra charges including tax.
Puka Dog
Places to Eat Dog ! Puka This Kauai fast-food favorite
those wanting a cocktail or casual meal. There is also live music and hula dancing. d Halekulani Hotel, 2199
has a convenient Waikīkī location and serves fresh Polish sausages with signature relishes. A veggie version is also available. It makes for a truely Hawaiian experience. d
Kālia Rd. • Map J7 • 923 2311 • $$$$
Steakhouse & Hy’s Dine here like a guest at an
English mansion. Hy’s is revered for its steaks, chops, and seafood, broiled over native Hawaiian kiawe wood. d 2440 Kūhiō Ave. • Map L6
2301 Kūhiō Ave. • Map K6 • 924 7887 • $
Coffee House @ Wailana Reliable food and fast service
draw locals and tourists to this 24-hour diner. d 1860 Ala Moana Blvd.
• 922 5555 • Dinner only • $$$$$
• Map H6 • 955 1764 • $
* LaWhenMeryou’re in the mood
Factory £ Cheesecake This family-friendly restaurant
to savor each exquisite bite and watch the sun set, choose this classy French eatery. d Halekulani
offers an extensive menu of hearty American fare, including mammoth slices of signature cheesecake.
Hotel, 2199 Kālia Rd. • Map J7 • 923 2311 • Jacket required • Dinner only • $$$$$
d Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center, 2301 Kalākaua Ave. • Map K6 • 924 5001 • $$$
Mein ( Ciao This quirky, friendly eatery
‘n’ Things $ Eggs The best place for breakfast
serves both Italian and Chinese cuisine. d Hyatt Regency Hotel &
in Waikīkī. Expect a wait for fresh fish, crêpes, pancakes, and waffles, but it’s worth it. d 343
Towers, 2424 Kalākaua Ave. • Map L7 • 923 2426 • Dinner only • $$$$
Saratoga Rd. • Map J6 • 949 0820 • 6am–2pm • $
Tree Lanai ) Hau Reasonably priced East-West
%
food is served here beneath the spreading branches of a hau tree.
Hula Grill Waikīkī
Regional Hawaiian fare is served here along the water’s edge with views of the beach and Diamond Head. d 2335 Kalākaua
d New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel, 2863 Kalākaua Ave. • Map M7 • 921 7066 • Breakfast, lunch & dinner • $$$ " MB
^ Named after a Charlie Chan House Without a Key
detective novel, this classic hotel hangout is a sunset favorite for
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Clubs and Shows O’Neils ! Kelly Punters relish O’Neils’ Irish
puzzlement. (An understudy performs on Sun & Mon nights.)
ambience, full beer and food menu, and nightly live entertainment.
d Ohana Waikīkī Beachcomber Hotel, 2300 Kalākaua Ave. • Map K7 • 971 4321
d 311 Lewers St. • Map J6 • 926 1777
of Seven & Society This long-running variety show
@ Some of Hawaii’s favorite Chai’s Island Bistro
consists of show tunes, ‘60s hits, and costumed pratfalls. d Outrigger
entertainers, including the Brothers Cazimero and Jerry Santos, present the best contemporary Hawaiian music in a varied nightly schedule of performances here. d • Aloha
Waikīkī on the Beach, Main Showroom • Map K7 • 922 6408 • Wed–Sat
Around O’ahu – Waikīkī
Left Society of Seven Right Duke’s Waikīkī
Waikīkī * Duke’s Named after surf legend
Tower Marketplace • Map H4 • 585 0011
Duke Kahanamoku and outfitted with his memorabilia, this lively bar frequented by a mixed-age crowd offers food and live music. d Outrigger Waikīkī Hotel, 2335
£ This lovely cocktail lounge is Lewers Lounge
home to jazz of the kind you can both sing and dance to. No cover; pricey drinks. d Halekulani Hotel,
Kalākaua Ave. • Map K7 • 922 2268
2199 Kālia Road • Map J7 • 923 2311
( Creation, A Polynesian Journey
$ Check out the surfing memorHard Rock Café
Polynesian music, dance, and legend make up this show.
abilia and rock mementoes that cover the walls here. There’s a live DJ and dancing every Friday night.
d Sheraton Princess Ka’iulani, ‘Ainahau Showroom, 120 Ka’iulani Ave. • Map K7 • 922 5811 • Tue & Thu–Sun
d 1837 Kapiolani Blvd • Map G5 • 955 7383
Comedy Theater Wonderlounge % Hawaii ) The Live comedy shows, featuring Honolulu’s dressy crowd both local and national touring comedians, provide visitors with an affordable opportunity to laugh at the “lighter side” of the islands. Open mic nights are also held. d Sheraton Princess Ka’iulani
gathers here to dance to a backbeat of DJ music in various genres.
d Fri & Sat night • The Lotus at Diamond Head • Map C7 • 922 3734, 922 1700 " MB
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weaves elements of Polynesian culture and “prestidigitational”
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Around O’ahu – North Shore
Left Statue, Waimea Center Classic motor, Hale’iwa Right Ali’i Beach Park
North Shore
T
HE NORTH SHORE IS MANY THINGS to many people. For big wave riders,
it is the peak of their craft — the navel, the source. For Honoluluans, it’s the far, far country, and turning around point for Sunday drives. And for those who appreciate fresh, flavorful food, it’s fast becoming an important source of superb produce, ranging from tropical fruits to coffee, corn to free-range beef. The coastline itself displays a split personality during the course of the year. From April to October, the beaches are playgrounds, broad and golden, visited by gentle waves, and smiled on by the sun. From October through March, however, high surf robs the beaches of sand, or piles it high into dunes, and the potential danger of swimming here cannot be overstated. Sights 1 2 3 4
Banzai Pipeline
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d From Kamehameha Surfers on the Banzai Pipeline
Pipeline ! Banzai Banzai Beach encompasses
the shoreline between Ke Waena and Ke Nui Roads off Kamehameha Highway. Here, broad expanses of sand fringe a rocky shore, over which the surf boils. The most famous of the wild surfing breaks is the tubular Banzai Pipeline, which attracts the greatest risktaking surfers. Lifeguards are kept very busy here because of the steeply sloping ocean bottom and the irresistible allure of huge winter surf. d Map C1
Highway, drive up the hill on Pūpūkea Road; the dirt track into the luakini heiau is on the right and is marked by a visitor attraction sign • Map B1
Around O’ahu – North Shore
This luakini heiau (sacrificial temple), honoring the war god Kū, is the largest on the island. It encompasses an expansive network of three enclosures that command panoramic views of Waimea Bay and the surrounding countryside. An altar has been restored at which you may see (but not touch) personal offerings.
Valley $ Waimea Once an adventure park
with tram rides and cliff divers, this valley is now owned by the Office of Hawaiian Affairs. The center’s focus is on the conservation of the valley’s natural resources and layered history through interpretive hikes and cultural activities. d 59-864 Kamehameha Hwy., Hale’iwa • Map C2 • 638 7766 • www.waimea valley.net • Daily • Adm
Beach Park @ Pūpūkea The 80 narrow acres of
Pūpūkea Beach Park include two very popular snorkeling and skin diving areas. Shark’s Cove is a rocky inlet, often used by scuba diving operators for training. Three Tables is a network of shallow coral reefs and ponds. The Pūpūkea Foodland store, across the highway, is an excellent stop for provisions, and the Sunset Beach Fire Station offers aid and information. d Map B1
Waimea Valley
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77
Around O’ahu – North Shore
Hale’iwa Town harbor
Ali’i Beach Park & % Hale’iwa Hale’iwa Beach County Park These parks flank each other on either side of the Anahulu River, and if they look familiar it’s because they were a primary set for Baywatch Hawai’i. Ali’i Park features a boat ramp and is popular for fishing and surfing. Across the river, Hale’iwa Beach offers safe swimming and is an excellent place for a family party or picnic. d Map B2
Town ^ Hale’iwa Plan your day to allow a
The Wild North Shore If you’re interested in wildlife, several beaches along this coast are basking areas for turtles. Wedge-tailed shearwaters nest in the area in the late summer and fall, and whales can be seen frolicking offshore from November through April.
Lili’uokalani & Queen Protestant Church
Queen Lili’uokalani was part of this congregation when she visited her summer home in Hale’iwa. Though the present structure dates only from 1961, a centuryold moon-phase clock she gave to the church is proudly displayed. The church is famed for its annual fundraising lū’au feast each
couple of hours exploring historic Hale’iwa Town – the touristy top layer is built on a genuine base of community, made up of an eclectic mix of surfers, characters, and families who have lived in “the house of the ‘iwa bird” for generations. Once a gracious retreat for wealthy summer visitors, the place has a certain timelessness. To get a feel for it, park at either end of town and walk, poking into shops and lingering on the Anahulu River Bridge to watch the water flow by. d Map B2 Queen Lili’uokalani Protestant Church
78
North Shore Excursion Morning
August. d 66-090 Kamehameha Hwy • Map B2 • 637 9364 • Open daily
Shore Surf & * North Cultural Museum
Opened and operated as a labor of love, this small network of rooms displays surfing collectibles, including such esoterica as Boscoe Burns’ board-glassing shoes – practically unrecognizable under layers of multicolored wax – as well as boards, aloha shirts, and trophies. Surf movies spool in a back room. d 66-250 Kamehameha Highway • Map B2 • 637 8888 • Closed Tue • Free
Airfield ( Dillingham This tiny airport is a center for gliding, skydiving, and scenic flights (see pp52–53). d 69-000
Farrington Hwy, Mokulē’ia • Map A2 • 637 4551 • Original Glider Rides (637 3404) offers daily flights every 20 minutes, 10:30am–5pm
Point ) Ka’ena This sprawling state park
begins at the abrupt and muddy end of Farrington Highway and takes you along a wild, boulderstrewn shoreline to the dunes at O’ahu’s westernmost tip. This is said to be where the souls of the dead leapt into the afterlife. It’s a broiling hot 2.5-hour hike (Ka’ena means “the heat”), but worth it for the beauty of the landscape and the whales you can spot in season. Take sunscreen, water, hat, and sturdy walking shoes. d Map A2
From there, you can easily run into Hale’iwa for a morning’s shopping – there’s LOTS of it and some items are actually cheaper than in the city, notably pareau wraps. Have lunch at Kua‘aina or Hale’iwa Joe’s Seafood Grill (see p81).
Around O’ahu – North Shore
North Shore Surf & Cultural Museum
Begin with this premise: it’s too far to drive in one day. Granted, a 50-mile round trip from Waikīkī may not seem like much, but remember that most of the route is on two-lane highways, so you can’t rush, and there’s a lot to see. So, if possible, check in at the Turtle Bay Resort in Kahuku (see p117), which offers hotel rooms and suites recently renovated in Plantation style, as well as condos and cottages with full kitchens and multiple bedrooms.
Afternoon For the afternoon, you can keep going north and take a heart-thrilling glider ride at Dillingham Airfield or rent a water bicycle from Surf & Sea (p80) in Hale’iwa Town. Alternatively, head back toward the resort, stopping to sun or snorkel along the way. Try to plan your excursion around an event (check www.gohawaii.com for an events calendar). Highly recommended are the rare Toro Nogashi lantern ceremony, hosted by Hale’iwa Shingon Mission in August, the Waialua Taro Festival in September, and, of course, the winter championship surf meets, which aren’t easy to predict as they’re wave-dependent.
79
Around O’ahu – North Shore
Left The Growing Keiki Center Jungle Gems Right Surf & Sea
Shops in Hale’iwa N Sea ! Surf This watersports-fanatics’
Moon Emporium ^ Silver You’ll think you’re in SoHo or
paradise, the oldest surf shop on O’ahu, offers everything from swimwear to snorkel tours and kayak rentals. The friendly staff will even fix that ding in your board after you’ve tackled Waimea Bay. d 62-595 Kamehameha
Hollywood when you step into this ritzy boutique packed with designer clothes and shoes of the wispy, whimsical type. This is where the movie, TV, and sports stars shop when they visit the North Shore. d North Shore
Hwy, Hale’iwa • 637 9887
Marketplace, Hale’iwa • 637 7710
Growing Keiki @ The If there’s a young one on
Gems & Jungle Step into a world of incense
your travel gift list, check out this eclectic array of funky children’s clothing, books, toys, and gifts. d 66-051 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale’iwa • 637 4544
and stone and lose yourself in eye-popping displays of crystals and polished beads, gold and silver jewelry, and samples of Hawaiian minerals. d North Shore Marketplace, Hale’iwa • 637 6609
£
80
North Shore Swimwear
This specializes in original bathing suit designs, ranging from thongs to tanks and in sizes from tiny to large. Bottoms and tops are sold separately so you can always get the right fit. d 66-250
Raging Isle * Barnfield’s Surf and Cycle
Kamehameha Hwy, Hale’iwa • 637 7000
Shore Marketplace, Hale’iwa • 637 7707
Current $ Strong Surf Design
Gallery ( Britton Always on the lookout for
Everything for bicycles, including rentals and repairs. You’ll also find custom boards by Bill Barnfield and stylish casual wear. d North
Longboard specialists with a major sideline in T-shirts. It’s hung floor to ceiling with ‘60s surf memorabilia. d 66-214 Kame-
handmade and original artworks, this shop features woodwork, jewelry, paintings, and sculptures by some 35 Hawai’i artists. d North
hameha Hwy, Hale’iwa • 637 3410
Shore Marketplace, Hale’iwa • 637 6505
Treasures % Polynesian Stacked with unusual
Art Gallery ) Hale’iwa George Atkins’ gallery has
designs by more than 50 artisans. Check out carved bone amulets, quilted items, and cool purses. d North Shore
original works by more than 30 Pacific Island artists, ranging from the neo-realism of Mark Cross to the abstracts of Mihoko M. d 66-
Marketplace, Hale’iwa • 637 1288
252 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale’iwa • 637 3368
Price Categories Price categories include a three-course meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all unavoidable extra charges including tax.
$ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$
under $20 $20–$30 $30–$45 $45–$60 over $60
Places to Eat in Hale’iwa Bakery ! Ted’s The source of heavenly cream pies sold all over the island; the chocolate-haupia (coconut) is Ted’s signature. Stop by from 7am to pick up fresh pastries and coffee. d 59-024 Kamehameha
Hwy, Hale’iwa • 638 8207 • $
Bakery @ Waialua A popular hangout with
surfers. The excellent smoothies, sandwiches, and cookies keep visitors coming back for more.
the ice, and Japanese craftsmen created a plane-like device to shave it. Latch on to the shortest line and enjoy. d Miura’s (66-057 Kamehameha Hwy) • Matsumoto’s (66-087 K. Hwy) • Aoki’s (66-117 K. Hwy)
Bob’s ^ Pizza Pies, salads, and sandwiches,
as well as pizzas. d 66-145 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale’iwa • 637 5095 • $$
Cantina & Rosie’s Big, frosty margaritas to
d 66-200 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale’iwa • 637 9079 • $
quench the thirst alongside tacos, enchiladas, and tostadas to satisfy the appetite. d Hale’iwa
by the Sea £ Jameson’s This longtime favorite steak
Shopping Plaza, 66-197 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale’iwa • 637 3538 • $$
and seafood restaurant has a gallery and gift shop, too. d 62-
540 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale’iwa • 637 4336 • $$$$
Joe’s $ Hale’iwa Seafood Grill
With a view of Hale’iwa harbor from its patio, the restaurant specializes in “boat drinks” and fresh fish. d 66-011 Kamehameha
Sandwich Shop * Kua’aina Famous for its third-of-a-
pound burgers and crisp fries. Look for the crowd just off the highway near the end of town.
d 66-160 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale’iwa • 637 6067 • $$
Gallery ( Coffee Locally grown coffees are
Hwy, Hale’iwa • 637 8005 • $$$
roasted daily at this Internet café. d North Shore Marketplace,
Ice Stops % Shave Three neighboring operations
Hale’iwa • 637 5355 • $$
specialize in sweet, drippy shave ice. This treat is a legacy of the days when ice was shipped to Hawai’i from Alaska in giant blocks. The shavings, created when the blocks were cut, were treasured by children. In the 1920s, Chinese entrepreneurs created fruit syrups to pour over
Around O’ahu – North Shore
Left Coffee Gallery Right Kua ‘Aina Sandwich Shop
Hale’iwa ) Café Ample, cheap breakfasts and
Mexican-accented lunches are the fare here; they’re open only until mid-afternoon. A popular surfer hangout, it’s good for people-watching and finding out what’s on in town. d 66-460 Kamehameha Hwy, Hale’iwa • 637 5516 • $$
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals
81
Central & Leeward O’ahu
F
OR VISITORS WHO HAVE THE TIME to venture
Sights
beyond the fleshpots of Waikīkī and the allure of the North Shore, Central and Leeward O’ahu offer the chance to better understand the everyday life of the island — the neighborhoods and shops, the down home restaurants, the lesser known beaches, and historic sites. ‘Ewa, once the quintessential company town, recalls its roots with a reconstruction plantation village. The second city of Kapolei has the state’s only water park, while Ko Olina’s gentle lagoons and the beaches of Wai’anae offer great sun and sand time. Several sacred sites – some restored, some mere remnants – remind us of the historical importance of these areas.
Kukaniloko Birthing Stones
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5
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Hawaiian Waters Adventure Park
Kū’ilioloa Heiau Mākaha Beach Kāne’ākī Heiau Yokohama Bay
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Previous pages Byodo-in Temple (see p24)
Plantation Village ! Hawai’i The era when more than
400,000 immigrants and Hawaiians labored on sugar and pineapple plantations is memorialized in the 30 original structures gathered to create this living history museum. Tours are led by volunteers, many of whom are former plantation laborers or descendants of workers. d 94-695
Waipahu Street, Waipahu • Map C4 • 677 0110 • www.hawaiiplantationvillage.org • 10am–4:30pm Mon–Sat • Adm age 4+
@ Bloodlines were all-important
Kukaniloko Birthing Stones
to ancient Hawaiians. In royal birthing areas like this, the upright stones served as support for the chiefly mother and also as chairs for the attendant priests and relatives, on hand to testify to the child’s lineage. d From Kame-
familiar, but also growing here are coffee, tropical fruit, corn, lei flowers, and exotic bromeliads. The Pineapple Garden maze, officially recognized in the Guinness Book of Records as the world’s largest maze, offers an unusual diversion. d 64-1550 Kamehameha Hwy • Map C3 • 9am– 5:30pm daily • 621 8408 • www.doleplantation.com
Around Central & Leeward O’ahu
Kukaniloko Birthing Stones
Waters $ Hawaiian Adventure Park
As if the miles of beaches aren’t enough, this inland water park forms another attraction, especially for children. They just can’t get enough of the tube cruises, six-story speed slide, beach volleyball, and special birthday area.
d 400 Farrington Hwy, Kapolei (exit 1 off H1) • Map B5 • Open daily • 674 9283 • www.hawaiianwaters.com • Adm
hameha Hwy heading toward Wahiawā, turn left on Whitmore Rd, continue to dirt parking lot, and palm grove • Map C3
Plantation £ Dole The gardens and production facilities of this popular attraction introduce 900,000 visitors a year to O’ahu’s modernday diversified agriculture industry. The pineapple is
Hawaiian Waters Adventure Park
For Pearl Harbor see pp8–9
85
Around Central & Leeward O’ahu
% Hawaiian Railway Line
The Hawaiian Railway Line is six restored miles of what were once 70-plus miles of track delivering people and supplies from ‘Ewa to Honolulu. It operates Sundays, offering 90-minute Ko Olina’s lagoons round trips to the coast at Ko Olina and back. Take Ka’ena from the West the train, then later drive back to Though most folks come to Ko Olina to swim in the man-made Ka’ena Point from the Mokulē’ia lagoons in the shade of cocoside, the 5-mile trek from the Wai’anae direction offers a sandier palms. You can also have lunch section of the old Farrington or dinner at the JW Marriott Highway. En route, watch for Ihilani Resort & Spa (see Azul, yellow ‘ilima, purple pā’ū o hi’iaka p89). d Catch the train from 91-1001 Renton Road, ‘Ewa • Map C5 • 681 5461 • www.hawaiianrailway.com • Fare
Bay ^ Pōka’i Beautiful, tranquil Pōka’i
Beach County Park is the most welcoming swimming and snorkeling beach along the Wai’anae Coast. It’s safe year round because of the protection of a long breakwater. The bay’s name, “night of the great one,” is rooted in the story of a voyager from the south, Pōka’i, who is said to have planted the first coconut grove on the island on this site. d 85-037 Wai’anae Valley Rd • Map A4
Pōka’i Bay
86
and white naupaka flowers.
Mākaha Beach
Heiau & Kū’ilioloa This sacred site on Kāne’ilio
Point is believed to have been a blessing point for travelers arriving and departing by canoe. Its name refers to a dog-god who protected voyagers. d Map A4
Beach * Mākaha Mākaha (“fierce” in Hawaiian)
d 84-369 Farrington Hwy • Map A3 Heiau ( Kāne’ākī Located in a lush, park-like
setting at the back of Mākaha Valley, this superbly preserved and restored sacred site was once a benign agricultural temple for the god Lono. It became a luakini (temple of human sacrifice) when Kamehameha I used the area as a gathering point for his troops while preparing for battle with Kaua’i.
d Located inside the gated Mauna’olu Estates (request entry at the gate) • Map A3 • 10am–2pm Tue–Sun • 695 8174
Bay ) Yokohama So-called because of its
popularity with Japanese pole fishermen, this is the last sandy shore on the northwestern coast of O’ahu. It’s also part of a large but undeveloped park complex that stretches around the end of the island to Ka’ena. Though known as a popular surfing site, it is also a place where you can enjoy the beach in relative isolation. d Map A3
Morning Schools of spinner and bottlenose dolphins, and, from November to March, pods of humpback whales are readily seen just off the Wai’anae Coast. Several cruise companies offer dolphin-watching excursions in various craft, usually with small numbers of passengers. The excursions depart from Wai’anae Boat Harbor or Ko Olina Marina. Most offer transport from Waikīkī hotels, though you can choose to pick up the tour at the harbor. You will have to get up early, because the boats usually depart promptly at 7am. Wild Side Specialty Tours (www.sailhawaii.com, 306 7273) offers a whaleand dolphin-watching cruise aboard a 42-foot catamaran. It is operated by marine researchers who believe that sailpowered vessels are less disruptive to the animals. The boat accommodates an intimate 4 to 15 passengers and the fourhour morning excursions include refreshments.
Around Central & Leeward O’ahu
lives up to its name, with high surf and a runoff pond behind the beach that periodically breaks through the sand bar and rushes into the bay. In the old days, it was infamous for a group of bandits who terrorized the area. Today, with the exception of when the surf is high, this is a safe beach for swimming.
A Day with Dolphins
Afternoon For a Mediterranean-style lunch after your cruise, try Azul in Ko Olina (see p89). If you’re traveling with kids who want to emulate the dolphins, you can spend the rest of the day at Hawaiian Waters Adventure Park (see p85). Less energetic members of the party can relax in the café or lie in shallow water away from the screaming action.
Surfer, Yokohama Bay
87
Around Central & Leeward O’ahu
Left Blaisdell Park Center Pineapples Right Wahiawā Botanical Gardens
Best of the Rest Park Botanical ! Blaisdell ^ Wahiawā On the shore of Pearl Harbor, Gardens
Blaisdell is a family favorite due to its pavilion facilities, shade trees, and children’s play equipment. d 98-319 Kamehameha Hwy, Pearl City • Map C4 • Free
@
Aloha Stadium Flea Market
Ringed around the coliseumlike stadium, the largest swap meet in the islands is a great place for kitsch souvenirs, alohawear, and beach equipment. d Pearl City • Map D4 • 486 6704 • 6am–3pm Wed, Sat, Sun
Town £ Waipahu This one-time plantation town
Wahiawā • Map C3 • 621 5463 • 9am–4pm daily • Free
Fields & Pineapple Spread across Central O’ahu
are some of the last remaining commercial pineapple fields in Hawai’i. The Del Monte Pineapple Variety Garden (corner of routes 99 and 80) features two dozen varieties of the fruit. d Map C3
* Pearlridge Shopping Center
is the hub for O’ahu’s Filipino community. Activities at the Filcom Center (94-428 Makuola St.) include the summertime Taste of Waipahu celebration, with its fantastic cooking competitions and food samples. d Map C4
‘Aiea • Map D4 • 488 0981
Premium Outlets $ Waikele This vast outlet mall
Island ( Downtown Delights
Waipahu, Exit 5A off H1 • Map C4 • 676 5656
Ste. 155 • Map D4 • 536 1414
includes factory-direct shops for Sak’s Fifth Avenue and Coach, as well as Banana Republic, Calvin Klein, Levi’s/Dockers, and MaxMara. d 94-790 Lumiana St.,
%
Wahiawā Town
Primarily a military town, dusty Wahiawā, high on the central plain, is an unglamorous but useful stopoff for supplies when journeying through the hinterland. d Map C3
88
Founded by commercial planters as an experimental garden, this 25-acre arboretum encompasses a tropical rain forest and upland gardens. d 1396 California Ave.,
This two-section shopping mall (connected by a monorail) is especially popular with ‘tweens and teens. d 98-1005 Moanalua Rd.,
One of the first shops to specialize in Hawai’i-made food gifts, from candies, preserves, and honey to coffees and flavored teas. d 841 Bishop St.,
Palace ) Ice O’ahu’s full service ice rink is
open daily for public skating and is a perfect escape from the heat. Skate rental is included in the admission price. d 4510 Salt Lake Blvd • Map D4 • 487 9921 • Adm
Price Categories Price categories include a three-course meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all unavoidable extra charges including tax.
$ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$
under $20 $20–$30 $30–$45 $45–$60 over $60
Places to Eat Original Steak ! Buzz’s House, ‘Aiea
North End ^ Boston’s Pizza Bakery
Pearl City • Map D4 • 487 6465 • $$$
Pearlridge; Map D4; 487 4055 • 98-585 Makakilo, Kapolei; Map B5; 689 5656 • $
A longtime local favorite, Buzz’s is known for its generous salad bar, grilled steaks, and fresh seafood. The original “Original” is in Kailua. d 98-751 Kuahou Pl., ‘Aiea,
The pies are Boston-style – thick edge, thin center, cheesy, saucy – and the attitude is East Coast too. That means “eat it and beat it.” d 98-298 Kamehameha Hwy,
Thai @ Champa Award-winning Thai spot, with & Azul a dozen types of curry and an This fine dining restaurant at
expansive vegetarian menu. d Pearl Kai Shopping Center, 98-199 Kamehameha Hwy, ‘Aiea • Map D4 • 488 2881 • $$
Smokehouse £ Molly’s This rare source of Texas-
style barbecue is widely patronized by southerners from nearby military bases. d 23 S. Kamehameha
Hwy, Suite No. 102, Wahiawā • Map C3 • 621 4858 • $$
Saimin Haven & $ Shiro’s Family Restaurant
This shrine to Japanese-style noodle soup and immense local plate lunches has to be seen to be believed. Founder and patriarch Shiro Matsuo has lined the walls with scribbled notes expressing his philosophy of life. d Waimalu Shopping Center, 98-020 Kamehameha Hwy, Pearl Harbor • Map D5 • 488 4834 • $
Miller’s % Anna Known for its homemade
the JW Marriott ‘Ihilani Resort & Spa (see p117) is a lovely, shady and cool space, opening onto a tropical lagoon. The Mediterranean menu manages to be both refined and rustic. d 92-101 Olani St.,
Around Central & Leeward O’ahu
Left Azul Right Boston’s North End Pizza Bakery
Ko Olina • Map B5 • 679 0079 • $$$$
Ko Olina * Roy’s Award-winning chef and
restaurateur Roy Yamaguchi perfects his Hawai’i fusion cuisine, while bringing the excitement of the open-plan kitchen to the islands. d 92-110 Aliinui Dr., Ko Olina Golf Club • Map B5 • 676 7697 • $$$$
Chop Suey ( Nanakuli Island-style Chinese food –
rich soups, fried noodles, deep fried won ton, and, of course, chop suey. d 87-2070 Farrington Hwy, Nānākuli • Map B4 • 668 8006 • $$
Chop Suey ) Wai’anae More Chinese cuisine in typical
pies and friendly staff, this popular family restaurant will serve you breakfast, lunch, or dinner 24 hours a day. d 98-115 Kaonohi St.,
island style – from egg flower soup, and lemon chicken to sweet & sour spare ribs, and deep-fried whole fish. d Wai’anae Mall Shopping
‘Aiea • Map D4 • 487 2421 • $$
Center • Map A4 • 696 1888 • $$
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals
89
Around Windward O’ahu
Left Fishpond, He’eia State Park Center Canoes, Kailua Beach Right Riding at Kualoa Ranch
Windward O’ahu
F
ROM KAILUA TO KAHUKU IS A JOURNEY from town to country, suburb to rural O’ahu. Kailua, a bedroom community of Honolulu, is an upscale neighborhood of beach and lake homes, while Kāne’ohe accommodates a Marine base and Hawaiian homestead lands. North from Kāne’ohe, the route along Kamehameha Highway passes a string of sandy beaches and brooding valleys, watched over by the sharp-etched Ko’olau Mountain Range.
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£ Lanikai Developed as a
Lava rock at Ulupō Heiau State Monument
Heiau State ! Ulupō Monument
Some still arrange leaf-wrapped gift bundles on the massive rock platform, once a site of prayer, sacrifice, ceremony, and divination. Likely built during the time of Kamehameha I, the heiau continued in use until the ancient religion was officially abandoned. If Kailua-bound on Highway 61, turn left into Ulu’oa Street at the Windward YMCA, park in the Y lot or along the street and follow the signs. d Map E4
@ Kailua This country-chic town con-
sists of a few blocks of shops and restaurants, peaceful ‘60s-era neighborhoods, and a string of popular beaches. Park along Kailua Road and explore on foot to find
beach retreat in the 1920s, Lanikai (reached by a beach road south of Kailua) is one of the most sought-after addresses on O’ahu. The neighborhood remains tightknit, hosting community plays and an exceptional pre-Christmas craft fair. d Map F4
State Park $ He’eia and Fishponds
Around Windward O’ahu
interesting gift and clothing shops, and at number 600 Lanikai Juice, which serves smoothies and juices. d Map F4
North on Kamehameha Highway from Kāne’ohe, surrounded by mangrove swamp, this grassy, well-maintained state park offers a view of the 80-acre He’eia fishpond, the largest intact aquaculture zone in the islands. When in use, fingerlings of the prized ‘ama’ama (mullet) and ‘ahole (Hawaiian flagtail) would swim into the rock-walled ponds through vertical gates called kahala, but would be unable to swim out. In this way, the fish were successfully farmed. d Map E4
The beach at Kailua
For more on the beautiful Kane’ohe District see pp24–25; for the Polynesian Cultural Center see pp26–27
91
Around Windward O’ahu
Kualoa Regional Park
o Laka Sandbar % Ahu At low tide on a weekend,
drive slowly on Kamehameha Highway just past He’eia Kea Boat Harbor. A little way offshore, you’ll see watercraft of every description clustered around seemingly nothing at all. In fact, just above sea level is a sandbar, and locals like to fetch up here, light the hibachi and hang out. Rent a canoe or kayak and join them. d Map E3
The beach at Kualoa Regional Park
Shrimp Shacks Northbound on Kamehameha Highway between Kāne’ohe and Kahuku, you’ll encounter a string of shrimp shacks, some in lunchwagons, others in roadside stands. It all began with a single shrimp aquaculture operation, which sparked a North Shore love affair with crustaceans. If you stop, be sure to ask if the shrimp you’re getting are locally grown (some aren’t) or previously frozen.
92
Regional Park ^ Kualoa This flat, windy park, with its
narrow sandy beach and shallow inshore ponds, is fantastic for kite-flying, snorkeling, launching watercraft, picnicking, and camping (by permit). The clearly visible peak sitting on the ocean (sometimes known as the Chinaman’s Hat) is the island of Mokoli’i (see also p25). d Map E3
Ranch & Kualoa The valley and rolling hill-
sides of Kualoa were once a sacred place of refuge, then passed to missionary descendants from royal hands. Today, it is a working cattle ranch, as well as a park where visitors can enjoy equestrian experiences (see also p43). The ranch has also been hired as a movie set, appearing in films such as Jurassic Park and Windtalkers. d Kualoa Ranch and Activity Club, 49-560 Kamehameha Hwy • Map E3 • 237 7321
Bay Beach * Kahana Park/Kahana Valley
This deep, green valley is stateowned watershed land, fronted by an eight-acre city and county park. The park has a sandy beach, bathrooms, picnic tables, lots of chickens (escaped fowl are ubiquitous all along this coast) and the remnants of two fishponds.
A Day on the Windward Coast Morning
Watch for fishermen wading out to catch akule (big-eyed scad). d Kualoa Ranch and Activity Club, Kamehameha Hwy • Map D2 • 237 7321
Trails ( Hau’ula Hau’ula (“red hau tree”) is
the starting point for three easy to moderate rambles. (A fourth hike, Sacred Falls is closed indefinitely due to landslide danger.) The two most worthwhile treks are Ma’akua Loop and Ma’akua Ridge (aka Papali Trail); both offer good views, interesting plants, and guavas in their late summer and fall season. d From Kamehameha
(Highway 83), the trails are reached by Hau’ula Homestead Road and Ma’akua Road • Map D2
Bay State ) Malaekahana Recreation Area
This mile-and-a-bit of curving sandy beach is distinguished by bare-bones beach homes available for rent, a reef that keeps the inshore waters calm, and Goat Island, a wild and beautiful place that can be reached on foot at low tide; be sure to wear beach shoes. d Map D1
Treat yourself to some Hawaiian scents and lotions at Lanikai Bath and Body. If you’re feeling peckish, pick up a sandwich at Brent’s Deli (629A Kaha St), the only place resembling a true Jewishstyle deli on the island. Then it’s time to head for Kailua Beach or Lanikai for a beach afternoon.
Around Windward O’ahu
Kualoa Ranch
Begin your itinerary by heading straight for Kailua, where you can stop off at Agnes Bakery for coffee and malassadas (Portuguese hole-less doughnuts fried up fresh and eaten hot).
Afternoon You could opt for a lazy, sun-soaked afternoon. But if you fancy a little more activity, rent some form of watercraft from Bob Twogood Kayaks (262 5656) or Kailua Sailboards and Kayaks (262 2555). Then, either paddle out to the Nā Mokulua (“the mokes” see p47) off Kailua Beach or drive over to He’eia Kai Boat Harbor to check out the Ahu O Laka sandbar. If you do plan to spend more time on the coast, consider reserving one of the luxurious rooms at the Turtle Bay Resort (57-091 Kamehameha Highway, Kahuku, 293 8811). You can putter your way from Kailua to Kahuku, leaving mid-afternoon and making one or two stops, and still arrive by check-in time. You won’t have to face the long drive back across the island, and you can dine in the extraordinary 21 Degrees North (p95).
Hau’ula Trail sign
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93
Around Windward O’ahu
Left Under a Hula Moon Right Kim Taylor Reece Gallery
Places to Shop a Hula Moon Woods & Krafts ! Under ^ Kahaunani Delightful, Hawaiian-themed This small roadside stand
furnishings for kitchen and bedroom – particularly a child’s room, with toys and sweet little tea sets. d 600 Kailua Road, Kailua Shopping Center • Map F4 • 261 4252
in Kailua @ Bookends This stacked-high bookshop
is a rare find in Hawai’i: a place run by readers for readers, with comfy chairs and a mix of used books and new titles. A great supply of locally published works, too. d 590 Kailua Road, Kailua Shopping Center • Map F4 • 261 1996
owned by Tats and Leo Enos offers original-design koa baby rattles, wine bottle holders, stirfry spoons, and all manner of gifts made from native woods, including koa, hau and milo. d 53850 Kamehameha Hwy, Hau’ula • Map D2
Taylor Reece Gallery & Kim Reece’s photographs portray
alluring hula dancers in traditional dress. Hand-printed sepia originals, posters, and Reece’s books are all available. d 53-866 Kamehameha Hwy, Hau’ula • Thu, Fri, Sat afternoons only • Map D2 • 293 2000
Treasures Art Gallery £ Island Kailua Koa wood craft, lauhala Village * Global (woven pandanus) creations, and This family-owned business ceramics are among the treasures for sale here, alongside works by local artists. d 629 Kailua Road, Kailua Shopping Center • Map F4 • 261 8131
Chang Pottery & $ Jeff Fine Crafts
Jeff Chang sells his own work along with well-selected gifts, from jewelry to tabletop water fountains. d 539 Kailua Rd., Kāne’ohe • Map E4 • 262 4060
%
94
The Gallery of Lance Fairly
began as a bead store, but now also sells clothing for children and adults, jewelry, gifts, and accessories. They also hold bead workshops. d 539 Kailua Rd., Kailua • Map E4 • 262 8183
Show in Town ( Only Antiques and collectibles
from all eras in Hawai’i history, as well as a beguiling miscellany of other times and places. d 56901 Kamehameha Hwy, Kahuku • Map D1 • 293 1295
Tanaka Plantation Store ) S.Garishly repainted in a style
Lance Fairly’s other-worldly seascapes and landscapes glow from the canvas. In contrast, his plein-air work vividly recalls the local coastline. Originals and prints are available. d 53-839 Kamehameha
that might shock the original owners, this plantation-era general store is now a small antiques and collectibles mall. d 56-901
Hwy, Hau’ula • Map D2 • 293 9009
Kamehameha Hwy, Kahuku • Map D1
Price Categories Price categories include a three-course meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all unavoidable extra charges including tax.
$ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$
under $20 $20–$30 $30–$45 $45–$60 over $60
Places to Eat Original Steak House Joe’s ! Buzz’s ^ Hale’iwa This venerable spot – a warren Call to check Joe’s isn’t reof dim rooms scented with the delicious aroma of grilling meat – turns out surf and turf for everyone from Lanikai millionaires to sandy surfers. d 413 Kawailoa Road, Lanikai
served for a wedding – neighboring Ha’ikū Gardens does a booming bride-and-groom business. If open, expect steaks, seafood, and sandwiches. d 46-336 Ha’ikū Road,
• Map F4 • 261 4661 • $$$
Kāne’ohe • Map E4 • 247 6671 • $$$
@ Ola Located right on the beach,
Bistro & Bobby’s This restaurant serves Italian-
Ola draws diners from neighboring Turtle Bay Resort for its stunning ocean views and fresh, locallyinspired cuisine. d 57-091 Kamehameha
Thai cuisine, but not as a fusion. Both are served simply because its owners know both – and it’s a delicious combo. d 47-388 Hui ‘Iwa,
Hwy., Kahuku • Map C1 • 293 0801 • $$$
Ko’olau Center, Kāne’ohe • Map E4 • $$
Around Windward O’ahu
Shrimp tempura, Maliko O Punalu’u Bar & Grill
Grill & Bar O Punalu’u £ Lucy’s * Maliko A truly Pacific Rim restaurant, Bar & Grill Lucy’s offers well-prepared EastWest dishes in a vibrant atmosphere. It has a lively bar, too, with a patio area – the only quiet place to talk. d 33 Aulike Street,
At this funky roadhouse the key ingredient is shrimp – steamed, tempura, and scampi-style. Lively bar at night. d 53-146 Kamehameha
Hwy, Hau’ula • Map D2 • 237 8474 • $
Kailua • Map F4 • 230 8188 • $$$$
$ Bring the paper on a Sunday Koa Pancake House
morning and read it while you wait in line for stacks of light, fluffy pancakes with home-made orange syrup, Portuguese pickled pork, and amazing omelets. d 46-126
Lion Inn ( Crouching Named after a nearby lion-
like rock formation, this oldfashioned restaurant ladles out soups, salads, and its specialties: Slavonic Steak and Mile High Pie. d 51-666 Kamehameha Hwy, Ka’a’awa • Map D2 • 237 8981 • $$$
Kahuhipa, Kāne’ohe • Map E4 • $
%
Pah Ke’s Chinese Restaurant
Degrees North ) 21Without question, the best
Besides the chop suey standards, Pah Ke’s specials include chilled fruit soups and dishes that focus on locally grown tropical fruits.
evening dining on this side of the island. The East-West food is genuinely innovative and focuses on seasonality and the freshness of ingredients. d Turtle Bay Resort,
d 46-018 Kamehameha Hwy, Kāne’ohe • Map E4 • 235 4505 • $
57-091 Kamehameha Hwy • Map C1 • 293 8811 • $$$$$
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals
95
Around O‘ahu – South Shore
Left Hanauma Bay Right Waimānalo
South Shore
I
T’S AN EASY HOUR’S DRIVE around the South Shore of O’ahu from Waikīkī
to the rural village of Waimānalo. But in the course of those dozen miles, you experience the multi-dimensional nature of an island whose Hawaiian name means “the gathering place.” Beginning with the exclusive bedroom community of Kāhala, you next come to a series of densely populated, valley neighborhoods. Each of these climbs from a coral-fringed beach to the apex of a deep valley in the classic Hawaiian land division known as an ahupua’a (see p11). At the island’s edge, the wave- and wind-tossed coast provides an ecologically fragile landscape, before giving way to mile upon mile of golden sand, bordering the horse country. Sights 1 2
Kāhala Beach
6 7 8
Sandy Beach
3 4
Kuli’ou’ou Beach Park Maunalua Bay Beach Park
9
Bellows Field Beach County Park
5
Hanauma Bay
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Paikō Lagoon State Reserve
Makapu’u Beach Park Waimānalo Bay State Recreation Area
Sandy Beach
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Beach ! Kāhala This secretive mile and a half
of golden sand, hidden by the ritzy homes of suburban Kāhala, offers wading, snorkeling, reef-fishing, and sunbathing. To get here from Waikīkī, take Diamond Head Road until it becomes Kāhala Avenue. In the 4,400 to 4,800 blocks of Kāhala Avenue, watch out for seven narrow paths, marked by blue beach access signs (you’ll need to park on the street). The bigger stretch of Wai’alae Beach Park (with restrooms and picnic tables) is just beyond Kapakahi Stream bridge. d Map E6
Lagoon @ Paikō State Reserve
Its name deriving from a Portuguese former resident called
Pico, the virtually unknown Paikō Peninsula offers birdwatching, fishing, snorkeling, and unprecedented seclusion. From Kalaniana’ole, turn right onto narrow Paikō Drive, park on the street and take the beach access trail to the water. Turn left (east) and find your spot past the second to last house. You’ll need to bring food and water with you, as it’s a remote area. d Map F5
Around O‘ahu – South Shore
Kāhala Beach
Beach Park £ Kuli’ou’ou This family-friendly park on
Maunalua Bay offers perfect picnic sites, restrooms, views and, at low tide, the opportunity for novice kayakers to take to the water. From Kalaniana’ole, turn right on Kuli’ou’ou Road, left on Summer Street and right again on Bay, which comes to a dead end in a parking lot. d Map F6
Bay Beach Park $ Maunalua This sun-baked park has
Maunalua Bay Beach Park
picnic tables, restrooms, and some grassy areas for play. It’s a launching point for excursions onto Maunalua Bay, from outrigger canoe paddling and water skiing to fishing, diving, and snorkeling trips. d Map F6
97
Around O‘ahu – South Shore
Bay % Hanauma Keyhole-shaped
Hanauma Bay is one of the most spectacular sights in the islands, and highly recommended for swimming and snorkeling. It’s a good idea to go early in the day because the bay is so well used that access and parking can be difficult. Call ahead on 396 4229 to check for periodic closures. d Map F6
Beach ^ Sandy Renowned for the con-
stant winds that make kiteflying a feature, Sandy Beach also has wicked waves, which routinely slam unsuspecting waders and body surfers into the rockHanauma Bay hard sand. This much-used beach is, therefore, one to treat “baby beach,” where pools are with respect. So rule number safe for children’s play. Manana one is: don’t turn your back on – better known as Rabbit Island the ocean – here or anywhere – is a dramatic landmark else, for that matter. d Map F5 offshore. d Map F5
Beach Park & Makapu’u This park contains some of
O’ahu’s beloved landmarks – the beach (a bodysurfer’s mecca), the nearby lighthouse, and the shore trail. Just over the rocks is
Bay State * Waimānalo Recreation Area
Here you catch sight of uninterrupted white sand that stretches three miles along the coast. The facility includes Waimānalo Beach
Makapu’u Beach Park
98
For more about the coastline from Hanauma Bay to Sandy Beach see pp22–23
Kite Flying
Park, south of town, and the recreation area to the north. Both offer prime picnic areas, camp sites, restrooms, and showers. The park is right on the road but the recreation area is secluded in an ironwood grove (known as Sherwood Forest, alas, in part because car burglaries are a problem). d Map F5
Field Beach ( Bellows County Park
Though located on a military installation that includes an army reserve camp, an area where Marines practice amphibious landings, this sprawling beach and campsite with ample parking is a public facility on weekends and holidays. Many consider it the best of the Waimānalo beaches; bodyboarding, boogieboarding, and surfing are prime. Camping here is by permit only. d Map F4
Polo Field ) Waimānalo Polo, favored by Hawaiian
royalty, has a 200-year history here. Honolulu Polo Club matches are held at 2:30pm each Sunday from June through October (adults $3, children under 12 free). There is a shaded grandstand, food for sale, and you’ll find lots of aloha (warmth) for visitors – who have included the UK’s Prince Charles, who played a match here in 1974.
South Shore Tour Morning A South Shore circular driving tour makes for a wonderful all-day itinerary. From Waikīkī, take H1 to the Wai’alae exit and start the morning with croissants at the Patisserie and shopping at Kāhala Mall; shorts and sandals are just fine even at this ritzy mall. Continue south, and finish off the morning with a water adventure at Maunalua Bay (see p97), such as water-skiing or diving. (Reserve ahead at water activity shops at Hawai’i Kai Towne Center or Koko Marina Center.) Alternatively, for a more sedate pursuit, take the binoculars and go birdwatching on the edge of the Paikō Lagoon State Reserve (p97).
Around O‘ahu – South Shore
On any windy day at Sandy Beach, the sky is bright with kites. Flyers from age 6 to 60 play out the lines, straining against the wind. Traditionally, Hawaiian kites were made from hau wood, covered with kappa or woven lauhala, with olona cord used for the string. Skill was needed both to make and fly them.
Back on Kalaniana’ole, grab a quick lunch at Kona Brewing Co. (p101) or one of a dozen inexpensive, interesting eateries at Koko Marina Center (p100).
Afternoon Cruise slowly around the island’s edge, stopping to view the Hālona Blow Hole (see p39) and watch the bodysurfers and kitefliers at Sandy Beach. At Makapu’u Wayside, park and make the easy hour-long, two-mile trek up and down the old lighthouse road; the views will stay with you long after you return home. Afterward, stop for a drink or bite to eat at Zippy’s (p101) and refresh yourself with a swim at one of the Waimānalo beach parks before heading home via the Pali Highway.
d Map F5
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Around O‘ahu – South Shore
Left Vue Hawaii Right Naturally Hawaiian Gallery & Gifts
Places to Shop Kitchen ! Compleat Honolulu’s first upscale
kitchen supply store stocks gorgeous bamboo cutting boards and other high-quality gifts for foodies. d Kāhala Mall, 4211 Wai’alae
Kalaniana’ole Hwy • Map F6 • 395 4737
Ave. • Map E6 • 737 5827
grocery stores were like 50 years ago, visit Mel’s Market, a friendly one-stop store that offers hardto-find ingredients for authentic lū’au dishes (salt meat and fish, raw crab, kukui nut relish, dried fish, and fish cake). d 41-1029
Road @ Ohelo Stylish women’s clothing
boutique, featuring very chic imports. d Kāhala Mall, 4211 Wai’alae Ave. • Map E6
Market & Mel’s For a flavor of what island
Kalaniana’ole Hwy, Waimānalo • Map F5
£
Vue Hawaii
A careful selection of gifts with island themes, many of them hand-made in Hawai’i by local artisans. d Kāhala Mall, 4211 Wai’alae Ave. • Map E6 • 735 8774
$ Paperie A lovely shop, chock full of
fine quality paper goods, Hawai’ithemed cards, stationery, and wedding supplies. d Kāhala Mall, 4211 Wai’alae Ave. • Map E6 • 735 6464
%
Hawai’i Kai Towne Center and Hawai’i Kai Shopping Center These side-by-side open malls offer grocery shopping, dive shops, boat charter firms, and restaurants, as well as banking and dry cleaning services. d Towne Center: 6700 Kalaniana’ole Hwy; Shopping Center: 377 Keahole • Map F5 • 396 0766
Marina Center ^ Koko Another shopping center, with
a vast supermarket, theater complex, many eateries, and places
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to rent water gear or arrange excursions along the coast. d 7192
Hawaiian * Naturally Gallery & Gifts
This exceptional shop offers oneof-a-kind keepsakes, original artwork, books, and jewelry. It’s also the place for Waimānalo rodeo posters and Hawaiian Tshirts. d 41-1025 Kalaniana’ole Hwy, Waimānalo • Map F5 • 259 5354
Connection ( Sumo This shop is a shrine to the
career of a Samoan from Hawai’i who found fame in Japan as sumo wrestler Yokozuna Akebono. Sumo souvenirs and island bric-a-brac are sold. d 41-1537 Kalaniana’ole Hwy, Waimānalo • Map F5 • 259 8646
Stands ) Roadside Watch for charming roadside
stands near Waimānalo. They sell fresh kahuku corn, fruits, chilled coconuts, tropical flowers, fresh or dried fish, and such ethnic specialties as pasteles (Puerto Rican tamales) and poke (raw fish and seaweed salad). d Map F5
Price Categories Price categories include a three-course meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all unavoidable extra charges including tax.
$ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$
under $20 $20–$30 $30–$45 $45–$60 over $60
Places to Eat on the Rise ! 3660 Tucked away on the bottom
floor of an office building in homey Kaimukī, this always-busy bistro pleases locals and visitors with smart variations on beloved local themes – sashimi katsu-style, chocolate-filled won tons, steak in Hawaiian salt. d 3660 Wai’alae Ave.
Restaurant ^ Roy’s The flagship of the sprawling
Roy’s Restaurant empire continues to deliver its trademarks: highenergy atmosphere, a dramatic open-plan kitchen, and a menu that ranges from salsa to Szechuan. d 6600 Kalaniana’ole Highway, Hawai’i Kai • Map F5 • 396 7697 • $$$$
• Map E6 • 737 1177 • Closed Mon • $$$$
@ You can build your own burger The Counter
here, or try one of their signature offerings: the Loco Moco combines a ground beef patty, fried egg, onion strings, and gravy on a bed of rice. d Kāhala Mall, 4211 Wai’alae
Avenue • Map E6 • 739 5100 • $$
Tree Café £ Olive One of the few Mediterranean restaurants in the islands, this spot routinely wins awards for its great Greek fare and casual style. d 4614 Kīlauea Ave.,
Kaimuki • Map E6 • 737 0303 • $$
$ Hoku’s This sophisticated lunch and dinner restaurant ranks high among critics and diners for its world flavors, ocean view, and gracious service. d Kāhala Hotel &
Resort, 5000 Kāhala Avenue • Map E6 • 739 8780 • $$$$$
Beach House % Plumeria This oceanfront, indoor/out-
door restaurant is family-friendly and well known for lavish buffets.
d Kāhala Hotel & Resort, 5000 Kāhala Ave. • Map E6 • 739 8759 • $$$
Restaurant & Jack’s Stop by this compact neigh-
borhood spot to discover Jack’s giant Special Biscuits, breakfast until 2pm, and freshly made local plates. d ‘Aina Haina Shopping Center,
Around O‘ahu – South Shore
3660 on the Rise
820 W. Hind • Map E5 • 373 4034 • $
Salsaria * Cha-Cha-Cha This light-hearted south of
the border eatery offers inexpensive Mexican standards and fiery, fresh salsas – lots of them. d Hawai’i Kai Shopping Center, 377 Keahole St. • Map F5 • 395 7797 • $
Brewing Co. ( Kona The first O’ahu brewpub by
Big Island-based Kona Brewing, located on one of Hawai’i Kai’s man-made canals, serves burgers, salads, casual fare, and, of course, beer! d Koko Marina Center, 7192 Kalaniana’ole Hwy • Map F6 • 394 5662 • $$
) Zippy’s This seaside outpost of one
of the island’s most popular chains serves inexpensive, island-style comfort food (hamburger curry, won ton noodle soup) and house signature chili. d 4134 Wai’alae Ave., Kāhala • Map E6 • 733 3730 • $
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals
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STREETSMART Planning Your Visit 104
Arriving in O’ahu 106 Getting Around O’ahu 107 Banking & Communications 108 Things to Avoid 109 Shopping & Dining Tips 110 Budget Tips 111 Outdoor Activities 112 Safety Tips 113 Specialist Tours 114 Accommodations Tips 115 Places to Stay 116–121
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Sources of Information 105
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Left Casual clothing Right Passenger aircraft
Planning Your Visit to Visit ! When In terms of weather, Hawai’i is good to visit year round. May, June, September, and October are traditionally a bit slower than the height of winter and summer seasons, so better travel deals are often available.
shores in winter; south swells delight surfers in summer. At sea level, temperatures average high 70s/low 80s in the daytime most of the year; nighttime temperatures can go down to the 60s, occasionally the 50s in winter.
and Visa @ Passport % Electricity Requirements for Standard U.S. current
Foreign Visitors
Visitors from the U.K., most Western European countries, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, and South Korea need a valid passport and must also register online with ESTA (https://esta.cbp.dhs.gov) in advance of travel to Hawai’i. Canadians must show a valid passport. Other foreign nationals need a valid passport and a tourist visa, obtainable from a U.S. consulate or embassy.
£ Customs/Agricultural Inspection Foreign visitors may not bring food or plants of any kind into Hawai’i and luggage or cargo leaving the islands is subject to an agricultural search. Only certain fruits and flowers may be taken out, so ask about this when purchasing such items.
$ Climate Contrary to popular belief, Hawai’i does have seasons. Rain is common Oct–Jan, and summer is much warmer than winter. Big surf arrives on north
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is 110–120 volts. NonU.S. appliances need a converter and plug adapter with two flat pins, but bear in mind many hotels provide coffee makers, irons, and hair dryers.
^ Clothing Hawai’i is a relaxed place. Shorts, T-shirts, swimsuits, and casual evening wear are all that’s needed. Only a handful of restaurants require men to wear jackets. A sweater or jacket is a good idea for cool evenings.
& Insurance The cost of medical care is high everywhere in the U.S., including Hawai’i. Travel insurance is highly recommended. If you have a mainland health insurance plan, you should check to see if it’s accepted in Hawai’i.
Airlines * Major The airline industry is facing difficult times and flight schedules and routes change frequently. At the time of writing, all major U.S. airlines, most Asian and Pacific lines, and
some European carriers fly directly into Honolulu International Airport.
Security ( Enhanced Although Hawai’i is a safe place, in the aftermath of 9/11, airport security has been enhanced, and items like pocketknives, scissors, nail files, and tweezers must be packed in checked luggage. Those arriving on a visa may also have their photograph and fingerprints taken. When traveling inter-island, you should get to the airport one hour before your scheduled flight.
Lines ) Cruise Crystal Cruises, Princess Cruises, and Royal Caribbean have ships that stop in Hawai’i as part of wider itineraries. Norwegian Cruise Lines operates vessels through the Hawaiian islands.
Directory United Airlines www.ual.com American Airlines www.aa.com Delta Airlines www.delta.com Crystal Cruises www.crystalcruises.com Princess Cruises www.princess.com Royal Caribbean www.royalcaribbean.com Norwegian Cruise Lines www.ncl.com
Sources of Information Bureaus ! Visitors % Suggested The Hawai’i Visitors Reading and Conventions Bureau (HVCB) is the “mother” of all the individual island bureaus. The HVCB serves as the official source of information for individual travelers, groups and conventioneers. The O’ahu Visitors Bureau is the island’s chapter of HVCB.
@ Magazines Hana Hou!, Hawaiian Airlines in-flight magazine is published 6 times a year. HONOLULU is Hawai’i’s only major regional magazine and a great source of insider information. All can be accessed online.
£ Newspapers Hawai’i has two big dailies. Both the Honolulu Advertiser and the Honolulu Star-Bulletin have morning and afternoon versions, and are available statewide. There are also several more locally-oriented papers, most notably the “alternative” Honolulu Weekly, MidWeek, and the Downtown Planet.
$ Websites Virtually all hotel chains, activities sellers, and even most restaurants now have their own websites. They are easily accessed via any search engine. The O’ahu Visitors Bureau site also offers links to many visitor attractions.
James Michener’s Hawai’i is considered by many a “must-read” for visitors. It is certainly epic in scope and an entertaining, if not precisely accurate, historical novel. Shoal of Time by Gavan Daws, Hawai’i’s History by Hawai’i’s Queen by Queen Liliu’okalani, and Hawaiian Mythology by Martha Beckwith are all excellent choices.
Visitor ^ Free Publications You will be deluged by dozens of free visitor publications as soon as you arrive at any airport in Hawai’i. Many are chock full of discount coupons and free offers. Bear in mind that most publications cover only the places that advertise with them.
& Concierge Your hotel concierge is potentially one of the very best sources of insider information. They are, of course, island residents, and many know every nook and cranny of O’ahu – where to get the best noodles and find that vintage piece of Hawaiiana you’re after. Remember to tip them well if the advice is good.
to Locals * Talk Hawai’i is known for having some of the world’s friendliest locals, and most love to share their knowledge of their hometown. Talk to waiters and
waitresses, the bartender, the supermarket cashier, and the person who sells you your very first aloha shirt. You’re sure to learn secrets not available in any guidebook!
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Left Local magazines Center Newspapers Right Friendly waitresses
( Local TV
Oceanic Cable TV Channel 16 is a treasure trove of entertaining local information. Check it out, even if the pidgin (the local slang) proves a little difficult to decipher.
Pages ) Yellow There’s a Yellow Pages phone book in every hotel room. Besides helping to identify the closest Japanese restaurant or the nearest surf shop, flipping through the book will give you an idea of the local way of life. Keep in mind that the large display listings are paid advertising.
Directory HVCB Visitors Bureau • 1-800-GOHAWAII • 923 1811 • www.gohawaii.com O’ahu Visitors Bureau • 1-877-525-6248 • 524 0722 • www.visit-oahu.com Magazine and Newspaper Websites • www.hanahou.com • www.spiritofaloha.com • www.honolulu magazine.com • www.honolulu advertiser.com • www.starbulletin.com
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Left Airplanes at Honolulu International Airport Right Cruise ship, Honolulu
Arriving in O’ahu Airlines Airport Shuttles ! Domestic All major U.S. airlines % The WikiWiki Shuttle as well as Hawai’i’s own Hawaiian and Island Air Airlines fly directly into Honolulu International Airport from many U.S. cities. Several North American charter companies also bring visitors to O’ahu daily.
Airlines @ Foreign Many foreign carriers – most notably the Pacific and Asian companies like Qantas, Air New Zealand, Air Pacific, Japan Airlines, China Airlines, Korean Air, and Philippine Airlines – land at Honolulu International Airport. Air Canada, Lufthansa, Sabena, and Swissair are some others offering flights into Honolulu.
£ Inter-Island Airlines Hawaiian Airlines, and go! Airlines fly between all the major islands from early morning until evening every day. Schedules change often; weekend, non-stop, and first and last flights of the day fill up quickly.
$ Information at the Airport Information booths can be found in the baggage claim areas, outside the foreign arrivals area, in the Inter-island Terminal, near Gate 22, and at both ends of the airport’s main lobby. There are also many racks of free visitor publications.
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buses (wikiwiki means “quick”) connect the terminals at the airport. Airport Island Shuttles take you from the airport to all parts of O’ahu.
Ships ^ Cruise Crystal Cruises, Carnival Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Radisson, Princess, and Royal Caribbean include Honolulu on some of their cruises. Norwegian Cruise Lines offers weekly cruises around Hawai’i.
& Maps Free maps come in virtually every drive guide for rental vehicles and in visitor publications. For more detailed maps, look in the bookstores Borders and Barnes & Noble, or ask for a photocopy of the one in the front of the phone book.
* Directions Folks in Hawai’i don’t give directions in terms of east, west, north, south. Instead, you will hear the words “ ‘ewa” (toward ‘Ewa), “diamond head” (toward Diamond Head), “mauka” (toward the mountains), and “makai” (toward the ocean).
( Greeters Contrary to what you may see in old movies, lei greeters do not welcome every new arrival. If, however, you are on a package tour, you will
likely be greeted with a lei and a peck on the cheek from a company employee. And if you’re visiting friends or family, you will surely receive a garland upon arrival.
) Passports/Visas Visitors from the U.K, most Western European countries, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, and South Korea need a valid passport and must also register with ESTA (see p104). Canadians are required to show a valid passport. Other foreign nationals need a valid passport and tourist visa.
Directory Inter-Island Airlines • Island Air (also from North America), 484 2222, 1 800 652 6541, www.islandair.com • go! Airlines, 888 435 9462, www.iflygo.com • Hawaiian Airlines, 800 882 8811, www.hawaiianair.com Domestic Airlines • American, 1 800 223 5436, www.aa.com • Continental, 1 800 523 3273, www.continental.com • Delta, 1 800 325 1999, www.delta.com • Northwest/KLM, 1 800 225 2525, www. nwa.com • United, 1 800 241 6522, www.ual.com Airport Island Shuttle • 834 8844
Getting Around O’ahu Cars and ! Rental $ Shuttles Virtually every major Taxis national rental car company is represented in Honolulu. Local companies are less expensive but may be less reliable.
@ Trolleys The cute open-air trolleys you’ll spot rolling around Honolulu have been carrying visitors since the mid-1980s. Today, the Waikīkī Trolley covers attractions with something for everyone, from the city’s historical sites to shopping centers all over the island. The four main routes are the Honolulu City Line (red); Ocean Coast Line (blue); Shopping & Dining Line (yellow); and Ala Moana Shopping Shuttle Line (pink). Other trolleys include one specially for visitors interested in duty-free shopping, and a guided tour of Waikele. It is also possible to charter a trolley.
TheBus
£ You can get just about anywhere on O’ahu by TheBus. You can purchase one-way tickets or a visitor’s pass. The pass lets you ride all you want on any four consecutive days and is sold at all ABC Stores in Waikīkī and the one at Ala Moana Shopping Center. Convenience stores in Honolulu stock the bus map, which also has a handy guide to Honolulu attractions.
For short, in-town trips you can always get a taxi in front of any major hotel, and restaurants are happy to call a taxi for you after your meal. Many hotels also provide shuttle service – usually to shopping destinations, sometimes to sights.
and % Motorcycles Mopeds Not for the faint of heart, motorcycles are a fun way to tour the island; mopeds do well on city streets. Be aware: motorcycle rentals are much more expensive than a car or even a van.
of the ^ Rules Road Seatbelts for everyone and approved car seats for children under three are mandatory. Pedestrians always have the right of way. Right turns are permitted – unless otherwise noted – after a full stop at a stop sign or red light.
& Refueling It’s a good idea to keep your car’s gas tank at least half full as distances between gas stations may be long.
Etiquette * Local on the Road Like any big city, Honolulu has its traffic challenges, especially when work-day commuters come in and go out
of town. Outside the metropolis, local people are rarely in a hurry, so allow plenty of time for any driving trip. Residents will never sound their car horns except in a case of imminent danger; thus you should check your rear-view mirror often to see if someone wants to pass you.
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Left TheBus Center Pleasure Ship Right Sign pointing toward a public beach
Tours ( Guided By land, by sea, by air, even under the sea – every variety of guided tour is available on O’ahu (see pp42 & 114). There are even tours that specialize in shopping! You can do some advance research on the internet (try www.top-10-hawaii. com as a starting point). You’ll also be inundated with information about tours at the airport.
Access ) Beach All Hawaiian beaches are public. The problem, sometimes, is not being able to get to them without trespassing. Look out for public beach access signs, which are prominently displayed, and follow the paths.
Directory Trolleys • 591 2561 • www. waikikitrolley.com
TheBus • 848 5555 • www.thebus.org
Many place names and some common words are Hawaiian, though few people speak fluent Hawaiian. See glossary p128.
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Left Cash point Center Post box Right Newspapers
Banking & Communications ! Banks Bank of Hawai’i and First Hawaiian Bank are Hawai’i’s largest, with branches throughout the islands, some of them inside supermarkets. In general, all banks are open: Mon–Thu 8:30am– 3pm or 4pm, Fri 8:30am– 6pm. Some branches have Saturday hours.
Cards @ Credit VISA and MasterCard are accepted almost universally except by the smallest stores and roadside stands. American Express, Discover, Diner’s Club, and JCB (a Japanese card) are accepted at most places but check first.
Checks £ Travelers’ By far the safest form of money, travelers’ checks in U.S. currency are accepted virtually everywhere. Change is given in cash. Lost or stolen travelers’ checks are easily replaced.
Calls $ Telephone With the extraordinary proliferation of cell phones, public phones are fast disappearing. If you can find one, a local call will cost 50 cents, much cheaper than using a hotel phone. Inter-island calls are deemed long distance, and numbers must be preceded by dialing 1 808.
Services % Postal Posting a letter costs the same as on the mainland, but mail
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sometimes takes longer to reach its destination. Hotels will often post mail for you, but otherwise there are post offices in every town. Opening hours are generally: 8:30am– 4:30pm Mon–Fri, with short morning hours at some branches on Saturdays.
and ^ Newspapers Magazines The best place to buy mainland newspapers and a wide array of magazines is Borders Books & Music (locations at both Ward Centre and Waikele) and Barnes & Noble (Kāhala Mall). The Honolulu Advertiser and Honolulu Star-Bulletin (both published twice daily) are the state’s large dailies. For more on newspapers and magazines, see p105.
& Television and Radio In addition to the myriad U.S. television stations on the dial, Oceanic Cable Channel 16 provides the most local programming imaginable. All the major hotels have their own closed-circuit visitor channels with programming that provides an overview of the island, activities, shopping, and restaurants. Fans of every music genre, from rock to country to Hawaiian, will find something on the radio dial to satisfy them. If you want to listen like the locals do, try KINE, 101.5 FM for the best in island sounds.
* ”Coconut Wireless” This is Hawai’i’s version of “hearing it through the grapevine.” Talk to as many locals as you can; you’ll be pleasantly surprised at how willing most are to share the island’s secrets.
Access ( Internet Most hotel rooms and condos are wired for dial-up internet access. Most large hotels have business centers where you can stay in touch with the office. Internet service is also available at several cafés.
Time ) Hawai’i Unlike the U.S. mainland, Hawai’i does not subscribe to Daylight Savings Time – island time remains constant throughout the year. From October to April, Hawai’i is two hours behind the U.S. West Coast (10 behind G.M.T); from April to October three hours (11 G.M.T).
Directory Banks • Bank of Hawai’i 808 643 3888 • First Hawaiian Bank 808 844 4444 Lost Cards & Checks • American Express 800 528 4800 (cards) 800 221 7282 (travelers’ checks) • VISA, 800 336 8472 • MasterCard 800 826 2181
Things to Avoid Dehydration ! Sunburn Everyone is at risk of $ With heat and sun sunburn in the tropics. It’s important to apply sunscreen often, including after swimming. A hat and sunglasses are good accessories, too. If you’re especially fair, you should wear light, long-sleeved shirts and long pants when you’re in the sun. Parents should be particularly careful with young children. Be vigilant on cloudy days, too – those ultraviolet rays get through the clouds.
Floods @ Flash During heavy rains, Hawai’i’s rivers are occasionally susceptible to flash floods. It’s best not to venture out on hikes or unfamiliar drives during heavy rains. Hawai’i radio and television stations always announce flash flood watches and warnings; you can also check recorded national weather forecasts by calling 973 5286.
Stroke £ Heat Although Hawai’i is blessed with cooling trade winds most days of the year, temperatures can easily reach into the 90s, especially in summer. It’s always advisable to stay out of the sun from 11am until 2pm when, obviously, the sun is at its highest point over the islands. Wearing lightcolored clothing and drinking lots of water are also recommended.
comes the possibility of dehydration. Always carry water with you, whether you’re going for a drive, venturing out on a hike, or just relaxing at the beach. Drink often and drink plenty.
and Stings % Bites Scorpions and centipedes are Hawai’i’s most troublesome insect pests. It is unlikely that you will run into either but, if you do get stung, get medical attention as quickly as possible. Mosquitoes are more bothersome than dangerous, and can be controlled with commercial repellants.
^ Trespassing It’s not difficult to accidentally wander onto private property, especially when hiking or going to the beach. Watch for No Trespassing signs, and always use the proper public beach accesses. You may see the word Kapu on signs, which is loosely translated as “forbidden.”
& Littering The physical beauty of the islands is most certainly one of the main reasons visitors are so drawn to them. Nothing is more jarring to that beauty than litter strewn along beaches, hiking paths, and streets. There’s no shortage of litter bins for food
wrappers, cigarette stubs etc., so make use of them. (Mahalo, often printed on the bins, means thank you.)
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Left Sign at private land Center Beach warning signs Right Well-prepared hikers
* Removing Natural Objects Traditional Hawaiians believe that everything – every stone, every shell, every plant – has both a life and a place of its own. So feel free to look, enjoy, and touch natural objects, but refrain from removing anything from its home.
( Jellyfish Hawaiian waters are susceptible to invasions of jellyfish – both box jellyfish and Portuguese man-of-war – usually about a week after a full moon. Local radio and television stations are very reliable in reporting these incursions. Jellyfish stings can be painful and, if one is allergic, quite dangerous. The best way to treat them is with meat tenderizer (available at any supermarket) or, indeed, urine.
Coral ) Sharp The islands are surrounded by reefs of coral, much of it very sharp. It can cause nasty cuts that are susceptible to infection, as coral is a living organism. Clean out a coral cut quickly and completely, treat it with an antiseptic, and keep it covered up. If a coral cut does get infected, it should be treated by a medical practitioner.
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Left Market entrance Right Cheap Chinese eats
Shopping & Dining Tips Times ! Opening Large shopping centers are open, in general, Mon–Sat 9am–9pm; Sunday hours are usually shorter. Some supermarkets and convenience stores stay open 24 hours. Most retail stores are open on U.S. holidays (with the possible exception of Christmas Day and New Year’s Day) and Hawai’i state holidays, such as Prince Kūhiō Day (Mar 26) and King Kamehameha Day (Jun 11).
and @ Alcohol Smoking Laws The legal drinking age in Hawai’i is 21. The age limit applies, as well, to buying alcoholic drinks – including beer and wine – at retail outlets. Since July 2003, smoking has been prohibited in all O’ahu restaurants, including bars and outdoor dining areas.
Bird £ Early Specials Not surprisingly, everyone wants to dine at sunset. In order to encourage pre-sunset dinner reservations, many restaurants offer “early bird” specials (see entry 3 opposite).
Tax $ Sales There’s general excise tax – 4.167% at the time of writing – on everything, without exception, in Hawai’i. That includes food – be it a restaurant meal or
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groceries from the market – all retail goods (even medicine), and all services.
at the * Shop Local Stores
“Early to bed, early to rise” is the credo throughout the Aloha State. Don’t be surprised if the restaurant on which you have your romantic heart set for a late night dinner stops serving at 8:30 or 9pm. The same is true of breakfast and lunch – many local folks take their lunch break at 11 or even 10:30am.
You’ll save money on souvenirs, resort wear, even groceries if you shop where the locals do. Local favorite Long’s Drugs has locations all over O’ahu and is a great source for macadamia nuts, coffee, and lots more. There are farmers’ markets dotted around the island, and there’s a big weekend swap meet at Aloha Stadium for excellent buys on flowers, local produce, and crafts.
and ^ Casual Formal Dining
Eats ( Cheap Hawai’i’s ethnic res-
There are few restaurants on O’ahu that require anything fancier than a shirt with a collar and footwear of some kind; there are only a handful that would frown on shorts and sandals.
taurants serve delicious food at low prices. You’ll find Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese, Mexican, and local-style food all over O’ahu – best bets are Chinatown and Honolulu’s suburbs. At more expensive restaurants, ordering several appetizers and sharing them is an inexpensive way to sample dishes.
% Evening Dining Hours
& Tipping Those who work in the visitor industry – everyone from the hardworking hotel housekeepers to the handsome young men who park cars – depend on tips to supplement their wages, so generosity is greatly appreciated. Restaurant tips should be at least 15% of the total bill. Parking valets should be tipped $1–$2; luggage handlers at least $2 per bag. And if you avail yourself of the service, you should tip your hotel concierge.
When ) Check Buying Souvenirs Unfortunately, much of what passes for Made in Hawai’i goods is actually manufactured in China, Taiwan, or the Philippines. A “Made-in-Hawai’i” label may, indeed, be fake. Always ask to be sure you’re getting the genuine article, and stick to places like museum gift shops and local art and craft galleries.
Budget Tips a Condo ! Rent Condominiums tend to be less expensive than hotel rooms. Rentals are readily available on O’ahu – get out of Honolulu and the expensive areas of Diamond Head, Koko Head, Kahala, Hawai’i Kai and Kailua for the best deals. Condos range from studios to three bedroom apartments. They’re almost universally well maintained and equipped.
In @ Eat The cost of dining out can easily rack up, so eating in is the obvious alternative, especially if you’re renting a condo. Throughout O’ahu, there are lots of supermarkets, grocery stores, and farmers’ markets where the fixings for a great meal can be easily found.
about £ Ask Discounts Hotels, restaurants, and activity desks often offer discounts, especially during the slower months (May, June, September, October). Restaurants routinely offer “early bird” specials for folks who like to dine before the prime 6:30–8pm slot. Late night specials are common, but less well advertised.
Well Before $ Plan You Travel Virtually every airline, many hotels, and even some car rental companies offer better prices to travelers who book well in advance.
It’s also a good idea to check out restaurants and activities – many have websites – before arriving to avoid price surprises. Some advance research also allows you to comparison shop for things like whale watching and other costly activities.
to book your own trip, inter-island package tours (from local companies like Pleasant Island Holidays and Roberts Hawai’i) are a great and affordable way to experience another island.
Visitor % Use Coupons
come a fantastic resource for excellent travel deals. The big, discount travel sites (Orbitz, Expedia, Hotels.com) always have discounted prices on air fares and hotel rooms. Many of the major airlines also offer special internet fares.
When you arrive at any airport in Hawai’i, you will see racks and racks of free visitor publications. Every one of them has coupons for discounts on restaurant meals and activities. If you have the time and the inclination to peruse the pages, the savings can be substantial.
Flyer ^ Frequent and Corporate Discounts
Frequent flyer miles can be used for both free or upgraded air travel on all the major U.S. airlines. If you are a member of a national organization such as AARP (for the over 50s) or work for a large corporation, ask about discounts. You may find that your company ID card can save you money!
&
Book a Package Tour
Package tours are always less expensive than purchasing air and ground transportation and accommodations separately; any good travel agent will have lots to choose from. But even if you do choose
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Left Coupons Right Market stalls
the Internet * Shop The internet has be-
Off-Season ( Travel Hawai’i is most expensive during the winter months when travelers from cold climes swoop down upon these sundrenched, tropical islands. The summer months (July and August) are family travel time, since children are out of school. This leaves May, June, September, and October for the bargain hunters.
a Non-Ocean ) Book View Room Oceanfront rooms are the most expensive accommodations in Hawai’i. Next come ocean view rooms and then partial ocean view rooms. In high-rise hotels, the upper floors are also priced at a premium. Booking a mountain or garden room view could save you hundreds of dollars on your bill.
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Left Surfing Center Hiking Right Canoeing
Outdoor Activities ! Cruises/Sailing $ Snorkeling From small, close-toHawai’i’s most the-ocean-action Zodiacs to Navatek’s 140-foot SWATH (Small Waterplane Area Twin Hull), every manner of sailing and cruising adventure is available in Hawai’i. Excursions depart from all areas of the island; during the winter months most cruises combine whale-watching with other activities.
@ Hiking With more than 30 major trails covering terrain of every description, it’s no wonder that hiking is as popular an activity with locals as it is with visitors. You can get a free map that will point you to all of O’ahu’s most popular hikes from the State Department of Land and Natural Resources (587 0166, www.hawaii.gov/dlnr).
£ Surfing/ Windsurfing Whether you’ve always wanted to learn to surf or you’re already an expert, many feel there’s no better place on Earth to catch a wave than the Island of O’ahu. From the gentle rolling waves at Waikīkī to the monster winter sets of Waimea Bay, instruction at your level is available. There are plenty of places to rent equipment, too. For windsurfing, head to – where else? – the Windward side.
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famous snorkeling spot – Hanauma Bay – is also the most popular. While this is perfect for beginners, more experienced snorkelers probably won’t enjoy the crowds. There are other good snorkeling locations around the island, most notably Maunalua Bay, east of Diamond Head.
% Scuba In addition to a myriad variety of reef fish and other sea creatures, O’ahu is a great location for divers to explore shipwrecks. One of the most notable wrecks is the 150+-foot Mahi which was purposely sunk in 1982 off the leeward side (south of Wai’anae) to create an artificial reef. While the diving off the North Shore is good, it is best left to experienced divers and only in summer months, at that.
Tours ^ Air Sailplanes, seaplanes, and helicopters offer aerial tours of O’ahu. Any of these will provide you with an excellent panorama of the island from a unique perspective and a chance to observe inaccessible natural areas.
& Fishing Fishing is good year round in the waters surrounding O’ahu as
well as all the neighboring islands. Sportfishing charters can be quite costly but can provide the thrill of a lifetime for anglers who’ve never had a deep-sea fishing experience before. Halfand full-day charters are available.
* Walking Tours Chinatown and downtown are good places to discover on foot. Other walking tours focus on Honolulu’s historical and cultural sites, or the city’s unique architecture. The National Geographic Society offers a walking tour of historic temples and archaeological sites.
( Tennis More than 180 public courts on the island cater to tennis enthusiasts. You can get a free listing of all of them from the City and County of Honolulu Department of Parks and Recreation (768 3003). The larger resort hotels have tennis courts for use by their guests; some welcome non-guests for a fee.
) Bicycling Honolulu is a major metropolitan area and unless you enjoy dodging traffic, city bicycling may not be the best idea. Mountain bikes can be rented for excursions outside the city and North Shore guided bike tours are available, too.
For more advice on water sports and other outdoor activities see pp40–53
Safety Tips Safety ! Ocean With care and com-
Hiking $ Smart Good shoes are
mon sense, it’s easy to enjoy the Pacific waters, but remember that strong currents, big waves, undertow, sharp coral, and potentially dangerous sea creatures are all natural parts of Hawai’i’s environment. Also, many beaches are not staffed by lifeguards. A red flag on the beach indicates strong currents, and posted signs will alert you to other dangers.
recommended, especially for serious hikers; rain forest trails can get very muddy and slick. Carry plenty of water and snacks and be absolutely sure of your route before you begin. Never hike alone and make sure someone knows where you’re going and what time you’re expected back.
@
Medical Emergencies
As in the rest of the U.S., dialing 911 in Hawai’i will put you in touch with the emergency services. There are several major medical centers in Honolulu – Queen’s, Kapi’olani, and St. Francis, to name a few. There are clinics all over the island too, and resort hotels mostly have doctors on call.
£
Climate and Quakes
Blessed with a near perfect climate all year round, Hawai’i is, however, susceptible to extreme weather and natural disasters, most notably hurricanes (from June to November), tidal waves, and earthquakes (usually benign). O’ahu’s Upcountry districts are cool throughout the year and can be very cold at the higher elevations, especially in the winter.
Sense % Sun The sun in the tropics is stronger than anywhere else, even when it doesn’t feel that way and even when the sky is overcast. Using sunscreen is an absolute must, as is re-application throughout the day. Fairskinned people should wear a hat and lightcolored, long-sleeved clothing where possible. And remember to drink water throughout the day.
and ^ Theft Valuables Unfortunately, even in Paradise, theft is a problem and tourists’ rental cars are often the targets. Always lock your car, even if leaving it for just a few moments. Never leave anything of value in view. A locked trunk may not be a deterrent so, if possible, take anything of value with you. Make use of your hotel’s safes, or lock boxes in rental properties, to store cash, jewelry, traveler’s checks, and other treasures.
& Water
All hotels and most other accommodations have filtration systems so the tap water is perfectly safe unless otherwise indicated. Bottled water is handy for carrying with you on day trips. Never drink from streams, ponds, rivers, waterfalls, or freshwater pools.
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Left Big waves sign Center Snorkeling buddies Right Sunbathers
Your * Lock Doors Hawai’i is a very casual and, in general, an extremely safe place. All the same, you should lock your hotel room or condo – that includes balcony doors, too.
( Safe Neighborhoods Crime is not nearly the problem it is in some other U.S. cities, but Honolulu IS a big city, and, as such, has its share of less salubrious neighborhoods. Check with your hotel concierge about neighborhoods to avoid, especially at night.
and ) Snorkeling Scuba Safety The buddy system ensures that you never dive alone and that you share responsibility for your safety. Full scuba instruction is widely available, but even if you’re already a certified diver, familiarize yourself with the underwater terrain before any excursion.
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Left Whale watching Center Polynesian Cultural Center Right Honolulu Harbor
Specialist Tours ! Polynesian Adventure Tours This company offers circle island tours, city sightseeing, even outlet shopping tours. Small groups, especially, will enjoy the mini-vans and mini-coaches.
Roberts Hawai’i
@ Roberts has been
around for a long time and is reliable for guided land tours, sightseeing cruises, lū’au, and dinner shows. Their “overnighters” are all-inclusive, economical overnight trips to neighboring islands.
Tours £ EThisNoacompany, which tends to lead smaller groups, employs certified tour guides for their itineraries including a circle-the-island tour, Pearl Harbor, and the shopping outlets at Waikele. Minibuses and trolleys are the modes of transport.
Hawaiian $ Native Hospitality
Association
Visitors interested in the history and culture of the island can spend two glorious hours walking with the knowledgeable docents from NAHHA. There are two separate trails along the Waikīkī Heritage Trail, both free.
Makai % Mauka Excursions Eco-tourism is this company’s specialty. You’ll journey to places
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even some residents have never seen. The focus is on archaeology and pre-contact history.
^ Honolulu Soaring Club Soar above the island in a quiet sail plane and enjoy the views along the spectacular North Shore. Planes take off every 20 minutes from Dillingham Airfield in Mokulē’ia.
&
Island Seaplane Service
The planes take off and land on the water; tours are narrated, and include complimentary van transportation from your hotel.
*
Dolphin Excursions
baby waves by instructors who also work as firefighters! What could be safer? Or more fun? Transportation from your hotel is provided.
Directory Polynesian Adventure Tours 833 3000 • 1 800 622 3011 • www.polyad.com Roberts Hawaii 539 9400 • 1 800 831 5541 • www.robertshawaii.com E Noa Tours 591 2561 • 1 800 824 8804 • www.enoa.com NAHHA 628 6370 • www. nahha.com
You’ll travel along the Leeward coast by Zodiac, a low-slung, motorized rubber boat that allows you to get up close to spinner dolphins and wintering whales. If conditions are right, you can even jump into the water with them! Book far in advance.
Mauka Makai Excursions 255 2206
Sailing ( Honolulu Company
Dolphin Excursions 239 5579 • www. dolphinexcursions.com
Luxury sail and power yachts are available by the hour, day or week. The company also offers group sail, snorkel and whale-watching tours.
Fire ) Hawaiian Surf School You can learn to surf on a secluded beach with
For Honolulu walking tours see p42
Honolulu Soaring Club 677 3404 • www. honolulusoaring.com Island Seaplane 836 6273 • www.island seaplane.com
Honolulu Sailing Company 239 3900 • www.honsail.com Hawaiian Fire Surf School 737 3473 • www. hawaiianfire.com
Accommodations Tips with ! Traveling Children Hawai’i is a family-friendly place. Restaurants offer keiki (child) menus, and the resort hotels have keiki programs to keep the kids busy while the adults relax. In most hotels, small children can stay in their parents’ room at no extra charge. Condos are a good, less expensive choice for families.
with @ Visitors Disabilities Hawai’i extends a warm aloha to travelers with disabilities. Due in large part to the ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act), hotels, restaurants, and attractions provide wheelchair ramps, special parking places, and accessible restrooms. Braille translations of elevator button panels and other important signs are commonplace.
Extras £ Hidden Accommodations are subject to a sales tax and room tax, so be prepared for an additional 15.5 percent on your bill. Most accommodations charge more than the standard rate for phone calls, faxes, and internet access. There may also be a daily parking charge.
$ Rates At the low end of the spectrum are campsite permits, and at the high end are luxury resort suites, villas, and bunga-
lows. Mid-price range hotel rooms are about $250 a night, while onebedroom condos are about $200. Inns and B&Bs often have lovely rooms for $100 to $150 a night.
% Travel Packages Travel packages typically include air and ground transportation and accommodations; some even include inter-island travel, activities, and some meals. The price usually depends on the accommodations and size of rental vehicle.
Local ^ Deciphering Descriptions The description “oceanfront” means you will have a panoramic and unobstructed view of the blue Pacific. And you will, of course, pay a premium for it. Other descriptions include “ocean view” and “partial ocean view”. You will not be able to see the ocean from a “garden” or “mountain view room.” Some rooms have no view at all.
& Discounts Frequent flier programs, corporate identification cards, and fraternal organization memberships are just a few of the ways you can avail yourself of discounted room rates. The websites of chain hotels will often offer these kinds of deals, and so will many travel agents.
* Reservation Services Most of the resort hotels are part of famous chains, and reservations can easily be made online. Travel agents can book most accommodations available. Many hotels, condos, inns, and B&Bs have their own websites and accept reservations directly. The O’ahu Visitors Bureau can also help.
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Left Tram Center Family on the beach Right Camping
( Tips & Taxes
Tipping hotel personnel is usual – averages are $2 to $3 a day for housekeepers, $1 to $2 for parking valets, $1 to $2 per piece of luggage for baggage handlers, and 15% for room service servers. Most guests tip the concierge, as well, if they use their services. Everything in Hawai’i – all goods and services – is subject to 4.167% sales tax. Accommodations are taxed an additional 11.416%.
& Dry ) Laundry Cleaning All the resort hotels offer laundry and dry cleaning services, but these are usually very expensive. Most condominium complexes have coinoperated laundries on the property; it will cost a few dollars per load to wash and dry. There are also coin-operated laundromats scattered around the island.
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Left Royal Hawaiian Hotel Right Sheraton Moana Surfrider
Luxury Resorts and Hotels ! Halekulani Located on the beach, the Halekulani defines elegance. It has manicured tropical grounds, tastefully simple decor, a spa, superb cuisine at La Mer (see p59), and its signature “orchid pool.” d 2199 Kālia Rd. • Map J7 • 923 2311 • www. halekulani.com • $$$$$
Prince @ Hawai’i Hotel Waikīkī Every room at this marinafront hotel overlooks the picturesque Ala Wai Yacht Harbor. There are two award-winning restaurants: Prince Court offers Hawai’i cuisine, Hakone traditional Japanese. The hotel is right by the huge Ala Moana Shopping Center, Waikīkī nightlife, and downtown Honolulu. d 100 Holomoana St. • Map G6 • 956 1111 • www.prince resortshawaii.com • $$$$
Moana £ Sheraton Surfrider Here the rich Hawaiian details combine with every modern comfort. Teatime on the Banyan Veranda will carry you back in time; enjoying contemporary Hawaiian entertainment in the same stunning setting is a highlight of any visit. d 2365 Kalākaua Ave. • Map K7 • 922 3111 • www.moanasurfrider.com • $$$$
Princess $ Sheraton Ka’iulani This comfortable hotel has all the advantages of
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a Sheraton without the oceanfront prices. It’s home to the revue Creation – A Polynesian Journey, a Japanese restaurant, and an all-you-can-eat buffet restaurant. d 120 Ka’iulani Ave. • Map L6 • 922 5811 • www. princess-kaiulani.com • $$$
Hawaiian % Royal Hotel The beloved “Pink Palace of the Pacific” has been a Waikīkī landmark since it opened in 1927. The stucco exterior, the interior decor, and even the towels are pink here. Its Royal Beach Tower is slightly pricier; many would say the Historic Wing has more charm. d 2259 Kalākaua Ave. • Map K7 • 923 7311 • www.royalhawaiian.com • $$$$
Hotel ^ Kahala & Resort On a great swimming beach and close to plenty of golf, this resort is perhaps best known for its lagoon, where guests can mix with bottlenose dolphins through the Dolphin Encounters program. One of Hawai’i’s best restaurants, the award- winning Hoku’s, is also here. d 5000 Kāhala Ave. • Map E6 • 739 8888 • www. kahalaresort.com • $$$$$
Outrigger & The Reef on the Beach Located right on the beach near Ft. DeRussy, this hotel’s highlights are a swimming pool, nightly
Hawaiian entertainment, and the oceanside Serenity Spa. It is also known for its Hawaiian wedding vow renewal ceremonies. d 2169 Kālia Rd. • Map J7 • 923 3111 • www.outrigger.com • $$$
Regency * Hyatt Waikīkī Resort & Spa
An elaborate atrium with cascading waterfall joins the two 40-story towers of this impressive resort in the center of Waikīkī. Chinese and Italian food lovers will be sated at the fun Ciao Mein restaurant. d 2424 Kalākaua Ave. • Map L7 • 923 1234 • www.hyatt.com • $$$
Waikīkī ( Aston Beach Tower This all-suite, luxury oceanfront property has only four suites per floor. Each oneor two-bedroom suite has a luxury kitchen, plus washer and dryer. There is twice-daily housekeeping. d 2470 Kalākaua Ave. • Map M7 • 926 6400 • www. astonhotels.com • $$$$
Parc ) Waikīkī Although it’s not on the beach, it is the sister of the luxurious Halekulani across the street. The level of service is the same at a much lower price. Rooms are tastefully appointed and the Nobu Waikīkī offers bountiful buffets. d 2233 Helumoa Rd. • Map J7 • 921 7272 • www.waikiki parc.com • $$$
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit cards, and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning
Price Categories For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes, and extra charges.
$ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$
under $100 $100–$200 $200–$300 $300–$400 over $400
More Luxury Hotels Hawaiian ! Hilton Village Situated on the widest stretch of Waikīkī Beach, this huge hotel has six towers, five pools, over 90 shops, 20 lounges and restaurants, a spa, and tropical gardens. You need never leave the complex. d 2005 Kālia Rd. • Map H7 • 949 4321 • www.hiltonhawaiian village.com • $$$
Hotel at @ The Turtle Bay Resort Set on a wide stretch of oceanfront on the North Shore of O’ahu, this resort has guest rooms, beach cottages, and ocean villas. There are great walking and running trails and plenty of sports activities. The on-site Spa Luana offers a wide range of services. d 57-091 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku • Map C1 • 293 6000 • www. turtlebayhotel.com • $$$$
Bay £ Turtle Condos Good for families or small groups, this service handles vacation rentals of condominiums on the grounds of the Turtle Bay Resort Golf Course and beach cottages on the North Shore. d 56-565 Kamehameha Hwy. • Map C1 • 293 2800 • www.turtlebay condos.com • $$–$$$
Estates at $ The Turtle Bay These condominiums – all individually owned –
are great value, ranging from studios to threebedroom deluxe units. All have full kitchens. d 56565 Kamehameha Hwy. • Map C1 • 293 0600 • www. turtlebay-rentals.com • $$
the Diamond Head Grill with its hip, place-to-seeand-be-seen bar. d 2885 Kalākaua Ave. • Map E6 • 922 1700 • www. castleresorts.com • $$$
Marriott % JW ‘Ihilani Resort A sprawling property, this is the only resort on the island’s leeward side. The rooms are large, with marble baths and high-tech systems to control the interior environment.There’s an 18-hole championship golf course and a huge spa. d 92-1001 ‘Ōani St. • Map B5 • 679 0079 • www.ihilani.com • $$$$
Sleek and modern, this 1,700-room hotel towers over the prime location on the beach at Waikīkī – most of the rooms have spectacular ocean views. Don’t miss the glass exterior elevator to the Hanohano Room where, in the evening, you can enjoy Waikīkī’s sparkling lights. d 2255 Kalākaua Ave. • Map K7 • 922 4422 • www.sheratonwaikiki.com • $$$
^ Renaissance ‘Ilikai Waikīkī
Waikīkī ( Aston Sunset
Conveniently located between Waikīkī and Ala Moana Center, the guest rooms here are spacious and situated in two towers with views of Ala Wai Yacht Harbor and the ocean. Sarento’s Top of the “I” restaurant is a popular dining spot. d 1777 Ala Moana Blvd. • Map G6 • 949 3811 • www.ilikaihotel.com • $$
Perfect for families, this high-rise condominium features one- and twobedroom suites. It’s an easy walk to the beach and to Honolulu Zoo. There’s also a playground and a barbecue area. d 229 Paoakalani Ave. • Map M7 • 922 0511 • www.aston hotels.com • $$$
Lotus at & The Diamond Head
offers an eco-friendly, upscale option for visitors to Waikīkī. With only 72 guest rooms, Renew provides an intimate atmosphere in keeping with its spirit of wellness and tranquility. d 4129 Paoakalani Ave. • Map M7 • 687 7700 • www. hotelrenew.com • $$
& Spa
This small luxury hotel at the foot of Diamond Head has light, airy rooms with Balinese furnishings. The location is superb – close enough to Waikīkī to enjoy it when you want to and far enough away when you don’t. It’s home to
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Left Hilton Hawaiian Village Right Sheraton Waikīkī
* Sheraton Waikīkī
Renew ) Hotel This boutique hotel
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Left Outrigger Waikīkī on the Beach Right Waikīkī Beach Marriott Resort
Mid-Price Hotels Beach Hotel ! Pacific In the center of Waikīkī, this hotel has a 280,000-gallon aquarium a full three stories tall that provides the decorative inspiration for the property. Features include a tennis court, pool and whirlpool, salon and spa, and lobby shopping. d 2490 Kalākaua Ave. • Map L7 • 922 1233 • www.pacificbeachhotel. com • $$$
New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel
@
Although the rooms at this boutique hotel are small, the fabulous location on Sans Souci Beach – across from Kapi’olani Park with easy access to Honolulu Zoo and the Waikīkī Shell – more than makes up for them. The beachside Hau Tree Lanai restaurant has the best poi waffles in town. d 2863 Kalākaua Ave. • Map M7 • 923 1555 • www. kaimana.com • $$$
Joy Hotel £ Waikīkī This off-the-main-drag boutique hotel is a hidden treasure. One of the two towers has suites, the other regular rooms. All have whirlpool tubs and stereos. Complimentary continental breakfast. d 320 Lewers St. • Map K6 • 923 2300 • www.resort questhawaii.com • $$$
Moana Hotel $ Ala Conveniently located between Waikīkī and Downtown, this all-
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purpose hotel has four restaurants, a lounge, and a nightclub. Guests also have access to the huge Ala Moana Shopping Center. d 410 Atkinson Dr. • Map G5 • 955-4811 • www. alamoanahotel.com • $$$
Alana % Doubletree Hotel Waikīkī This small boutique hotel has a great reputation for hospitality. Its fitness and business centers are open round the clock, while the Bistro Martini makes a stay all the more rewarding. d 1956 Ala Moana Blvd. • Map H6 • 941 7275 • www.alana-doubletree. com • $$
Waikīkī ^ Ohana Beachcomber Across the street from Waikīkī Beach and a short walk from the Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center and International Marketplace, this hotel has a 400-seat buffet and hosts a Magic of Polynesia show. d 2300 Kalākaua Ave. • Map K6 • 922 4646 • www.waikiki beachcomber.com • $$
Waikīkī & Outrigger on the Beach This oceanfront hotel is the jewel in the crown of the Outrigger chain. The 500 guest rooms feature Polynesian decor. The hotel’s main ballroom has been home to the glitzy Society of Seven show for a quarter century. The beachfront Duke’s Canoe Club restaurant is wildly popular and often hosts
great contemporary Hawaiian entertainers. d 2335 Kalākaua Ave. • Map K7 • 923 0711 • www.outrigger.com • $$$
Waikīkī * Hilton Prince Kūhiō Located in the heart of Waikīkī, a short walk to Kūhiō Beach, this tasteful hotel has a modern American restaurant, several bars, and a 10thfloor pool deck. d 2500 Kūhiō Ave. • Map M6 • 922 0811 • www.princekuhio hotel.com • $$$
Island ( Aqua Colony One of the tallest buildings in Waikīkī, this no-frills hotel overlooks the Ala Wai Canal along which walkers and joggers take their daily exercise. There are studio suites with kitchenettes, one-bedroom units with full kitchens, and even the regular rooms have refrigerators and coffee makers. d 445 Seaside Ave. • Map K6 • 923 2345 • www. aquaresorts.com • $$
Beach ) Waikīkī Marriott Resort Across from Kūhiō Beach, this hotel’s Ali’iolani Tower offers very large guest rooms; many Paokalani Tower rooms have great views of Diamond Head. There are six restaurants, two pools, a full-service spa, a fitness center, and plenty of on-site shopping. d 2552 Kalākaua Ave. • Map M7 • 922 6611 • www. marriottwaikiki.com • $$$
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit cards, and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning
Price Categories For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes, and extra charges.
$ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$
under $100 $100–$200 $200–$300 $300–$400 over $400
More Mid-Price Hotels Shores ! Waikīkī Condominium The only oceanfront condo complex in Waikīkī, most of the one- and two-bed suites and studios feature breathtaking views, especially on the upper floors. All units have a kitchen and laundry facilities. d 2161 Kālia Rd. • Map J7 • 952 4500 • www. castleresorts.com • $$$
Shore @ Park Located across from
kitchenettes. Complimentary continental breakfast is served each morning. The location across from the Ala Wai Canal makes this convenient for a scenic early morning walk or jog. d 450 Lewers St. • Map K6 • 923 8828 • www.aquaresorts.com • $$
Head % Diamond Beach Hotel
Kapi’olani Park at the Diamond Head end of Waikīkī, just steps from the beach, the Park Shore offers a premium location without premium prices. The rooms are comfortable; there’s a 24-hour family restaurant on site. d 2586 Kalākaua Ave. • Map M7 • 923 0411 • www.park shorewaikiki.com • $$
No frills here but many feel the serene oceanfront setting away from the crowds of Waikīkī makes up for the simplicity. At the base of Diamond Head, it’s just a short walk to the dining and shopping scenes of Kalākaua Avenue and across the street from Kapi’olani Park. d 2947 Kalākaua Ave. • Map E6 • 922 1928 • www. dhbhotel.com • $$$
Waikīkī £ ‘Ohana East
Bamboo ^ Aqua and Spa
‘Ohana means family in Hawaiian and this is a good choice for family vacations. Standard hotel rooms and studios with kitchenettes are available here. The Nintendo games in each room will keep the kids busy when you’re not off sightseeing. It’s a short walk to the beach. d 150 Ka’iulani Ave • Map L6 • 922 5353 • www.ohana hotels.com • $$
A smallish hotel offering studios and suites with standard, contemporary island decor; the upper floors of this high-rise have great views. There’s a swimming pool, sun deck, and whirlpool, and access to the nearby spa at the Hyatt Regency (see p116). The beach is a short walk. d 2425 Kūhiō Ave. • Map L6 • 922 7777 • www. aquaresorts.com • $$
Western $ Best Coconut Waikīkī
Gateway & Waikīkī Hotel
A favorite of inter-island business travelers; most of the rooms here have
On the corner of two main streets at the north end of Waikīkī, this high-
rise has a range of rooms with complimentary continental breakfast. d 2070 Kalākau Ave. • Map J5 • 955 3741 • www.waikikigateway-hotel.com • $$
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Left ‘Ohana Waikīkī East Right ‘Ilima Hotel
Hotel * ‘Ewa Tucked between Kalākaua and Kūhiō avenues, the attractions here are an earlier checkin time than most – 2pm (it’s 3pm elsewhere) – the kitchen facilities, which in many of the rooms are particularly good, and the low rates. It’s as close to Kapi’olani Park as you can get. d 2555 Cartwright Rd. • Map M7 • 922 1677 • www.ewahotel.com • $$
( ‘Ilima Hotel
Many consider this condominium hotel the best value in Waikīkī. All the studios, one-, two-, and three-bedroom suites are spacious, with kitchens. Local calls are included in the low prices and there is free Internet access. There’s even a pool, exercise room, and sauna. d 445 Nohonani St. • Map K6 • 923 1877 • www.ilima.com • $$$
Kap’iolani ) Queen Hotel Overlooking Kapi’olani Park and Diamond Head, this high rise provides basic, clean accommodations. With a pool and sun deck, the hotel is a short walk to Waikīkī. d 150 Kapahulu Ave. • Map M7 • 922 1941 • www. queenkapiolani.com • $$
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Left Hawaiiana Hotel Center Mānoa Valley Inn Right Pat’s Kailua Beach Properties
Budget Accommodations Sand ! Waikīkī Villa Hotel A few blocks from the beach, this hotel has medium-size rooms and studio apartments, all with free internet access. Daily complimentary breakfast is served by the pool. d 2375 Ala Wai Blvd. • Map K6 • 922 4744 • www. waikikisandvilla.com • $$
Hotel @ Hawaiiana The most outstanding feature here is the very hospitable staff. The small courtyard pool surrounded by tropical gardens is where Kona coffee and pineapple juice are served each morning. d 260 Beach Walk • Map J6 • 923 3811 • www.hawaiiana hotelatwaikiki.com • $$
Mānoa Valley Inn
£ Built in 1919, this oncestately home is on the National Register of Historic Places. The grounds are positively gorgeous; the shady lanai is perfect for breakfast or afternoon tea. The rooms are showing signs of age but retain some charm. A few share a bath. Several episodes of ABC’s Lost series have been shot here. d 2001 Vancouver Dr. • Map C6 • 947 6019 • www.manoa valleyinn.com • $$
with kitchenettes, and suites. The floating restaurant and water gardens are notable. d 1525 Rycroft St. • Map B6 • 941 6611 • www. pagodahotel.com • $$
Bay % Turtle Condominiums Self-contained one- and two-bedroom units all have full kitchens, making them perfect for families. They’re on the golf courses within the Turtle Bay Resort, near famous surfing beaches and major North Shore attractions. d Turtle Bay Resort, PO Box 366, Kahuku, 96731 • Map C1 • 293 0600 • www.turtlebay-rentals.com • $$
Bed & ^ Lanikai Breakfast If a comfortable, attractive room in a chic O’ahu area is your cup of tea, this could be the B&B for you. The hosts are warm and knowledgeable; the location across from Lanikai Beach excellent. Each unit has kitchen facilities. d 1277 Mokulua Dr. • Map F4 • 261 7895 • www.lanikai beachrentals.com • $$
Bluffs & Ali’i Windward Bed & Breakfast
Hotel $ Pagoda and Terrace Popular with locals due to its proximity to the shopping at Ala Moana, the Pagoda offers a variety of rooms – standard, studios
120
On the windward shore of O’ahu, this European-style B&B is a short drive from O’ahu’s best beaches. The wonderful hosts have filled their home with antiques and art.
d 46-251 ‘Iki’iki St., Kāne’ohe • Map E4 • 235 1124 • www.hawaii scene.com/aliibluffs/ • $
Shore * North Vacation Homes You’ll feel like a local when you rent a Hawaiian-style beach house in a quiet North Shore neighborhood. The rentals have large lanai (balconies), spectacular sunset views, and all the comforts of home. d 59-229C Ke Nui Rd., Hale’iwa • Map C1 • 637 3507 • www.teamreal estate.com • $$
‘Ike Beach ( Ke Bungalows These modest yet clean, comfortable beach cottages occupy their own stretch of beach between the surfing beaches of Waimea Bay and Banzai Pipeline. Run by a local resident, they offer serene, family-style Hawai’i. d 59-579 Ke ‘Iki Rd, Hale’iwa • Map B1 • 638 8829 • www.keiki beach.com • $$
Kailua ) Pat’s Beach Properties Groups of friends or families who’d like to try living like a local on O’ahu’s windward side would do well to contact Pat’s. The O’Malleys have fully furnished homes and cottages in beautiful residential areas of Kailua and Lanikai. d 204 S. Kalaheo Ave., Kailua • Map F4 • 261 1653 • www.patskailua.com • $$
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit cards, and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning
Price Categories For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes, and extra charges.
$ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$
under $100 $100–$200 $200–$300 $300–$400 over $400
Inns and B&Bs Schrader’s Windward Marine Resort
!
In a rural setting on a peninsula 30 minutes from Waikīkī, these modest cottages include complimentary snorkeling and kayaking expeditions. Ask for a unit that opens onto Kāne’ohe Bay if you’d like to catch dinner off your lanai! One-, two-, three-, and four-bedroom accommodations with kitchenettes are available. d 47-039 Lihikai Dr., Kāne’ohe • Map E4 • 239 5711 • www. schradersinn.com • $$
Hidden @ Hawai’i’s Hideaway A short walk from Lanikai and Kailua beaches, these privately owned units are comfortably furnished and well-equipped. All have views of the ocean or the landscaped gardens. d 1369 Mokolea Dr., Kailua • Map F4 • 262 6560 • www.ahawaiibnb.com • $$
Inn Waikīkī £ Holiday This 17-story high-rise hotel is at the gateway to Waikīkī and is a short two blocks from the beach. There’s a pool and sundeck and a fitness facility; the Chinese Buffet Restaurant offers affordable, bountiful Asian fare. d 1830 Ala Moana Blvd. • Map H6 • 955 1111 • www.waikikihi. holiday-inn.com • $$
$ JRun& byB’sa Haven mother/ daughter team, this beautiful house has two
comfortable rooms for guests. Floor-to-ceiling windows provide mountain views and two dogs add to the atmosphere. Smoking is not permitted. Breakfast is included. d Kahena St., Hawaii Kai • Map F5 • 396 9462 • www. home.roadrunner.com/ ~jnbshaven • $$
Breakers Hotel % The A 1950s vintage, Hawaiian-style oasis amid towering neighbors, The Breakers prides itself on its Hawaiian-style hospitality. Tropical flowers and a patio surround the pool; there’s a kitchenette in every room. And the beach is only a short walk away. d 250 Beach Walk • Map J6 • 923 3181 • www. breakers-hawaii.com • $$
Head ^ Diamond Bed & Breakfast On the side of Kapi’olani Park farthest from Waikīkī, Joanne Trotter has been welcoming guests into her home for almost two decades. Her tasteful house with its big lanai and tropical gardens is filled with heirlooms and artwork. Breakfast included. d 3240 Noela Drive • Map E6 • 923 3360 • www.diamondheadbnb. com • $$
Inn & Laie A two-story plantationstyle hotel across the street from the beach is within walking distance of the Polynesian Cultural Center. The standard
rooms include continental breakfast. d 55-109 Laniloa St., Lā’ie • Map D1 • 293 9282 • www.laieinnhawaii. com • $
Streetsmart
Left Schrader’s Windward Marine Resort Right The Breakers Hotel
Lane B&B * Beach and Cottages Close to beautiful windward-side beaches and a short drive from activities, these Hawaiian-style accommodations offer a relaxing retreat near Kailua town. Beach supplies are provided. d 111 Hekili St., Box 277, Kailua (mailing address) • Map F4 • 262 8286 • www.beachlane.com • $$
B&B ( Aloha Comprised of three units with a shared bath in residential – and very upscale – Hawai’i Kai, this affordable B&B has panoramic ocean views. It’s a 15-minute drive from Waikīkī and even closer to neighborhood dining and shopping. Rates include continental breakfast. d 909 Kahauloa Place • Map E6 • 395 6694 • www.home.roadrunner. com/~alohaphyllis • $
Vacations ) Kailua House of
Waterfalls
Four air-conditioned units sit in a lush tropical garden with a solar-heated pool and a waterfall, close to Kailua beach. The units can be rented separately or as one large rental. d 1478 Akialoa Pl., Kailua • Map F4 • 262 7466 • www. kailuavacations.com • $$
121
General Index Index
Page numbers in bold type refer to main entries.
A accommodation tips 115 agricultural inspection 104 Ahu o Laka Sandbar 92, 93 ahupua’a 11 ‘Aiea Loop Trail 43 air tours 112 airlines 104, 106 airport 106 Ala Moana 46, 48 Ala Moana Hotel 118 Ala Wai Canal 66 Ala Wai Golf Course 50 Alan Wong’s Restaurant 58, 69 alcohol laws 110 Alexander and Baldwin Building 66 Ali’i Bluffs Windward Bed & Breakfast 120 Ali’i Lū’au 27 Ali’iolani Hale 13 Allure Hair Studio and Day Spa 54 Aloha B&B 121 Aloha Festivals 37 Aloha Healing Arts 55 Aloha Stadium Flea Market 88 Aloha Tower 17 Aloha Tower Marketplace 17 Ampy’s A Day Spa 54 Anna Bannana’s 68 Anna Miller’s 89 Aqua Bamboo and Spa 119 Aqua Island Colony 118 Army Community Theatre 67 arriving in O’ahu 106 Aston Waikīkī Beach Tower 116 Aston Waikīkī Sunset 117 Azul 87, 89
B B&Bs 121 banking 108 Banzai Pipeline 39, 49, 77 Barnfield’s Raging Isle Surf and Cycle 80 bars 68 Battleship Row, Pearl Harbor 8 Beach Lane B&B and Cottages 121 beaches 46–49, 107 Ala Moana 46, 48 Banzai Pipeline 49 ‘Ehukai 49 Hale’iwa Ali’i 47, 78
122
beaches (cont.) Hanauma Bay Beach 22, 98 Ka’alāwai Beach 46 Ka’ena Point State Park 49 Kāhala Beach 97 Kahana Bay Beach Park 92 Kailua Beach 47, 93 Kaka’ako Waterfront Park 48 Kaloko Beach 23 Kūhiō Beach 72 Kuli’ou’ou Beach Park 97 Lanikai Beach 47, 93 Mākaha 49, 87 Makapu’u 48, 98 Maunalua Bay Beach Park 97, 99 Pōka’i Bay Beach 47, 86 Pūpūkea Beach Park 77 Sandy Beach 23, 48, 98, 99 Sans Souci 46 Sunset Beach 48 Wai’alae Beach County Park 46 Waikīkī Beach 20, 46, 72 Waimea Bay 49 Wawāmalu Beach 23 Bellows Field Beach 47, 99 Best Western Coconut Waikīkī 119 bicycling 112 Big City Diner 57 Bishop, Bernice Pauahi 31 Bishop Museum and Planetarium 10–11 bites 109 Blaisdell Park 88 Blue Room, ‘Iolani Palace 14 Bob Twogood Kayaks Hawai’i 53 Bobby’s Bistro 95 Bookends in Kailua 94 books 105 Boston’s North End Pizza Bakery 89 Breaker’s Hotel, The 121 Britton Gallery 80 budget tips 111 Burial Mound, ‘Iolani Palace 14 Burns, John 31 Buzz’s Original Steak House, ‘Aiea 89 Buzz’s Original Steak House, Lanikai 95 Byodo-in Temple 24
C Café Hale’iwa 81 Café Sistina 69
Campbell, James 31 canoe building 34 Capitol District 12–13 Central and Leeward O’ahu 84–89 map 84 places to eat 89 Cha-Cha-Cha Salsaria 101 Chai’s Island Bistro 58, 62, 69, 75 Champa Thai 89 Cheesecake Factory 74 Chef Mavro 58, 69 Cherry Blossom Festival 36 children 115 Chinatown 13, 65 Chinese New Year 36 Ciao Mein 74 Clark Hatch Physical Fitness Center 55 climate 104, 113 clothing 104, 110 clubs 68, 75 “coconut wireless” 108 Coffee Gallery 81 communications 108 Compleat Kitchen 100 concierge 105 condominiums 111 Contemporary Museum 64 Contemporary Museum at First Hawaiian Bank 66 coral 109 Coronation Pavilion 12 Counter, The 101 craft traditions 34–35 Creation, A Polynesian Journey 75 credit cards 108 Crouching Lion Inn 95 cruises 104, 106, 112 customs 104
D dancing 32–33 dehydration 109 Diamond Head 21, 38 Diamond Head Beach Hotel 119 Diamond Head Bed & Breakfast 121 Diamond Head Crater 73 Diamond Head Theatre 67 Diamond Head Trail 42 Dillingham Airfield 79 Dining Room, ‘Iolani Palace 15 dining tips 110 directions 106 disabilities 115 discounts 111, 115 Dole Plantation 85
E E Noa Tours 114 early bird specials 110 earthquakes 113 Eggs ‘n’ Things 74 ‘Ehukai 49 electricity 104 Estates at Turtle Bay 117 ‘Ewa Hotel 119
F Falls of Clyde 17 featherwork 34 festivals 36–37 Fijian Village 27 Fishbowl Tours 53 fishing 112 fishing nets 34 fitness centers 54–55 flooding 109 food 56–57, 59 Foster Botanical Gardens 40, 65 free visitor publications 105
G Gallery of Lance Fairly, The 94 gardens 40–41 garlands see lei gliding 52 Global Village 94 golf courses 50–51 Golf Courses at Turtle Bay 51 Gordon Biersch 68 Great Aloha Run 37 Growing Keiki, The 80 guided tours 107 Gullick Delicatessen & Coffee Shop 57
H Hā: Breath of Life 26 Ha’ikū Gardens 24 Ha’iku Stairway 43 Hale’iwa Ali’i 47 Hale’iwa Ali’i Beach Park 78 Hale’iwa Art Gallery 80 Hale’iwa Beach County Park 78 Hale’iwa Joe’s Seafood Grill 79, 81, 95 Hale’iwa Town 78, 79 Halekulani 116 Hālona Blow Hole 23, 39, 99
Hanauma Bay 22, 38, 98 Hanauma Bay Marine Center 22 Hanauma Bay Underwater Park 22 Hard Rock Café 75 Hau Tree Lanai 73, 74 Hau’ula Trails 93 Hawai’i Bowl 37 Hawaii Comedy Theater 75 Hawai’i Convention Center 71 Hawaii Ecotourism Association 53 Hawai’i International Film Festival 37 Hawai’i Kai Championship Golf Course 51 Hawai’i Kai Shopping Center 100 Hawai’i Kai Towne Center 100 Hawai’i Maritime Center 16–17 Hawai’i Nature Center 40 Hawai’i Plantation Village 85 Hawai’i Prince Golf Course 50 Hawai’i Prince Hotel Waikīkī 116 Hawai’i Sports Hall of Fame, Bishop Museum 11 Hawai’i State Capitol 12 Hawai’i State Farm Fair 37 Hawai’i State Library 13 Hawai’i State Art Museum 12 Hawaii Theatre Center 63, 67 Hawai’i Watersports 53 Hawaiian Chant 32 Hawaiian Fire Surf School 114 Hawaiian Hall, Bishop Museum 10 Hawaiian Parasail 53 Hawaiian Railway Line 86 Hawaiian Village 26 Hawaiian Waters Adventure Park 85, 87 Hawaiiana Hotel 120 Hawai’i’s Hidden Hideaway 121 heat stroke 109 Heaven on Earth Downtown Day Spa 55 He’eia State Park 25, 91 Helena’s Hawaiian Food 57 Henry R. Luce Gallery, Honolulu Academy of Arts 19 hiking 52, 53, 112, 113 Hilton Hawaiian Village 117 Hilton Waikīkī Prince Kūhiō 118
Hiroshi Eurasion Tapas 69 history 30–31 Hōkūle’a 17 Hōkūle’a Project 17 Hoku’s 59, 101 Holiday Inn Waikīkī 121 Honolulu 62–69 bars and clubs 68 map 62 places to eat 69 theaters and music venues 67 Honolulu Academy of Arts 18–19 Honolulu City Lights 37 Honolulu Harbor 17 Honolulu Marathon 37 Honolulu Sailing Company 114 Honolulu Soaring Club 114 Honolulu Walking Tours 42 Honolulu Zoo 21, 40 Ho’omaluhia Botanical Garden 24 Hotel at Turtle Bay Resort 117 Hotel Renew 117 hotels budget 120 luxury 116, 117 mid-price 118, 119 House Without a Key 74 hula ‘auana 32 Hula Grill Waikīkī 74 hula implements 35 hula kahiko 32 Hungry Lion Coffee Shop 57 Hyatt Regency Waikīkī Resort and Spa 116 Hy’s Steakhouse 74
Index
Dolphin Excursions 114 Doubletree Alana Waikīkī Hotel 118 Downtown Island Delights 88 driving 107 dry cleaning 115 Duke Kahanamoku 21 Duke’s Waikīkī 75
I Ice Palace 88 ‘Ilima Hotel 119 IMAX Theater, Polynesian Cultural Center 27 Indigo 68 Indigo Eurasian Cuisine 69 inns 121 Inouye, Daniel 31 insurance 104 International Market Place 71 internet access 108 internet shopping 111 ‘Iolani Barracks 14 ‘Iolani Palace 14–15 Island Seaplane Service 114 Island Treasures Art Gallery 94
J J & B’s Haven 121 Jack’s Restaurant 101
123
Index
Jameson’s by the Sea 81 Jeff Chang Pottery and Fine Crafts 94 jellyfish 109 jet skiing 52 John F. Kennedy Theatre 67 Joseph M. Long Gallery 11 Judd Memorial Trail 42 Jungle Gems 80 JW Marriott ‘Ihilani Resort and Spa 117
K Ka’alāwai Beach 46 Ka’ena Point Natural Area Reserve 41 Ka’ena Point State Park 49, 79 Ka’ena Point Trail 43 Kāhala Beach 97 Kahala Hotel & Resort 116 Kāhala Mall 99 Kahalu’u 25 Kahalu’u Fishpond 25 Kahana Bay Beach Park 92 Kahana Valley 92 Kahaunani Woods and Krafts 94 Kahili Room, Bishop Musem 11 Kahuna (Wizard Stones) 72 Kailua 91, 93 Kailua Beach 47, 93 Kailua Sailboards and Kayaks 53 Kailua Vacations House of Waterfalls 121 Kaka’ako Kitchen 57 Kaka’ako Waterfront Park 48, 65 Kalākaua Avenue 20–21 Kalākaua, King David 31 Kaloko Beach 23 Kamehameha I, King 31 Kāne’āki Heiau 87 Kāne’ohe District 24–25 kapa 34 Kapi’olani Park 21 Kapi’olani Bandstand 73 Kawaiaha’o Church 13 Kawainui Marsh 41 kayaking 52 Ke ‘Ike Beach Bungalows 120 Kelly O’Neils 75 Kim Taylor Reece Gallery 94 Kincaid’s Fish, Chop and Steak House 69 King Kalākaua Boathouse Musem 16 King Kamehameha Day Celebration 36 King Kamehameha Statue 13
124
King’s Suite, ‘Iolani Palace 15 King’s Village 72 Ko Olina Golf Course 50 Ko Olina Marina 87 Koa Pancake House 95 Koko Crater Botanical Garden 23 Koko Crater Trail 23 Koko Head 23, 38 Koko Head Trail 23 Koko Marina Center 99, 100 Kona Brewing Co. 99, 101 Ko’olau Golf Club 51 Ko’olau Mountain Range 39 Kua‘aina Sandwich Shop 79, 81 Kualoa Ranch 92 Kualoa Ranch Horse Trails 43 Kualoa Regional Park 92 Kuan Yin Temple 65, 66 Kūhiō Beach 72 Kū’ilioloa Heiau 86 Kukaniloko Birthing Stones 85 Kuli’ou’ou Beach Park 97 Kumu Kahua 67
L La Mer 59, 74 Laie Inn 121 Lanikai 91, 93 Lanikai Beach 47, 93 Lanikai Bed & Breakfast 120 laundry 115 Lei Day 36 lei making 34, 35 Leonard’s Bakery 69 Lewers Lounge 75 Lili’uokalani, Queen 13, 15, 31, 63 Lili’uokalani Botanical Gardens 40, 66 Linekona Art Center 66 Lion Dance 33 littering 109 Little Village Noodle House 57 Loft Gallery and Lounge 68 Lomi Shop, The 55 Lotus at Diamond Head, The 117 lū’au 53 Lucy’s Grill and Bar 95 Lyon Arboretum 40
M magazines 105, 108 Magic Island 72 Magic of Polynesia 75 Mai Tai Bar 68 Maikiku Valley Loop Trail 42 Mākaha 49, 87 Mākaha Resort Golf Club 50
Makapu’u 48, 98 Makapu’u Lighthouse Trail 42 Makapu’u Wayside 99 Malaekahana Bay State Recreation Area 93 Maliko O Punalu’u Bar & Grill 95 Mamiya Theatre 67 Mānoa Valley Inn 120 Manoa Valley Theatre 67 Maori Village 27 maps 106 Marine Corps Base Hawai’i 25 Marquesan Exhibit 26 Marsha Nadalin Salon and Spa 55 Mauka Makai Excursions 114 Maunalua Bay Beach Park 97, 99 Maunawili Demonstration Trail 43 medical emergencies 113 Mel’s Market 100 Michel’s 58 Mission Houses Museum 13 Moanalua Gardens 40 Mūkapu Peninsula 25 Mokoli’i (Chinaman’s Hat) 25 Moku O Lo’e (Coconut Island) 25 Molly’s Smokehouse 89 Moloka’i Hoe 37 Mormons 27 motorcycles and mopeds 107 Mount Ka’ala 39 Mount Ka’ala Natural Area Reserve 41 museums Bishop Museum and Planetarium 10–11 Contemporary Museum 64 Contemporary Museum at First Hawaiian Bank 66 Hawai’i State Museum of Art 12 Honolulu Academy of Arts 18–19 King Kalākaua Boathouse Musem 16 Mission Houses Museum 13 North Shore Surf and Cultural Museum 79 Shangri La Center for Islamic Arts 19 USS Arizona Museum 8 USS Bowfin Submarine Museum 9 State Museum for Natural and Cultural History see Bishop Musem
music and dance styles 32–33 music venues 67
N
O O’ahu Cemetery 63 O-Bon 33 Oceans 808 68 ‘Ohana Waikīkī East 119 Ohana Waikīkī Beachcomber 118 Ola 95 Ohelo Road 100 Olive Tree Café 101 Olomana Golf Links 51 Only Show in Town 94 opening times 110 Original Glider 53 outdoor activities 112 Outrigger Rainbow Classic Basketball Tournament 37 Outrigger Reef on the Beach 116 Outrigger Waikīkī on the Beach 118
P Pacific Beach Hotel 118 package tours 111, 115 Pagoda Hotel and Terrace 120 Pah Ke’s Chinese Restaurant 95 Paikō Lagoon State Reserve 97, 99
Q Queen Emma Summer Palace 64 Queen Kap’iolani Hotel 119 Queen Lili’uokalani Protestant Church 78 Queen Lili’uokalani’s Room, ‘Iolani Palace 15 quilting 35
R radio 108 Rainbows of Paradise 27 Renaissance ‘Ilikai Waikīkī 117 rental cars 107 rental places 53 reservation services 115 restaurants and other places to eat 57 Central and Leeward O’ahu 89
restaurants and other places to eat (cont.) Honolulu 69 North Shore 81 South Shore 101 tips 110 Top 10 58–59 Waikīkī 74 Windward O’ahu 95 Richard T. Mamiya Science Center 60, 61 roadside stands 100 Roberts Hawai’i 114 Rosie’s Cantina 81 Royal Hawaiian Hotel 20, 116 Royal Mausoleum 63 Roy’s Ko Olina 89 Roy’s Restaurant 59, 101 Rumour’s Nightclub 68 Ryan’s Grill 68
Index
Nā Mokulua 93 Nā Wahine O Ke Kai 37 Nanakuli Chop Suey 89 Native Hawaiian Hospitality Association 114 natural features 38–39 Naturally Hawaiian Gallery and Gifts 100 nature parks 40–41 Neal S. Blaisdell Arena 67 Neal S. Blaisdell Concert Hall 67 New ‘Ewa Beach Golf Club 50 New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel 118 newspapers 105, 108 NFL Pro Bowl 37 North Shore 76–81 map 76 places to eat 81 shopping 80 North Shore Swimwear 80 North Shore Surf and Cultural Museum 79 North Shore Vacation Homes 120 Nu’uanu Cultural District 65 Nu’uanu Pali Lookout 64
Palace Galleries, ‘Iolani Palace 15 Palace Saimin 57 Pali Golf Course 51 Paperie 100 parasailing 52 Park Shore 119 passport requirements 104, 106 Pat’s Kailua Beach Properties 120 Paul Brown Salon and Day Spa 54 Pearl Harbor 8–9, 31 Pearlridge Shopping Center 88 Picture Gallery, Bishop Museum 10 Piers 10 and 11 17 pineapple fields 88 Pipeline Café 68 Pizza Bob’s 81 Planetarium, Bishop Museum 11 planning your visit 104 Plumeria Beach House 101 Point Panic 48 Pōka’i Bay Beach 47, 86 polo 53 Polynesian Adventure Tours 114 Polynesian Cultural Center 26–27 Polynesian Treasures 80 Polynesian Hall, Bishop Museum 10 postal services 108 Prince Lot Hula Festival 36 Puka Dog 74 Punchbowl 38 Punchbowl Cemetery 64 Pūpūkea Beach Park 77 Pu’uomahuka Heiau 77
S S. Tanaka Plantation Store 94 Sacred Falls, Kaliuwa’a 39 safety tips 113 sailing 112 St. Andrew’s Cathedral 66 sales tax 110 Sam Choy’s Breakfast, Lunch, and Crab 69 Samoan Village 27 Sand Island Sports Club 68 Sandy Beach 23, 48, 98, 99 Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar 58 Schrader’s Windward Marine Resort 121 scuba 112, 113 Sea Breeze Parasailing 53 security 104 Serenity Spa Hawai’i 54 Shangri La Center for Islamic Arts 19 shave ice stops 81 Sheraton Moana Surfrider Hotel 20, 116 Sheraton Princess Ka’iulani 116 Sheraton Waikīkī 117 Shiro’s Saimin Haven and Family Restaurant 89 shopping 53 North Shore 80 South Shore 100 tips 110 Windward O’ahu 94 shuttles 107 Side Street Inn 57 Silver Moon Emporium 80 Skydive Hawai’i 53 skydiving 52 slack-key guitar 32
125
Index
smoking laws 110 snorkeling 112, 113 Soar Hawai’i Sailplanes 53 Society of Seven 75 Sony Open 37 South Shore 22–23, 96–101 map 96 places to eat 101 shopping 100 souvenirs 110 spa-hopping 52 spas 52, 54–55 specialist tours 114 sporting events 37 State Museum for Natural and Cultural History see Bishop Musem Statue of Lili’uokalani 63 Steak House 58 steel guitar 32 Stevenson, Robert Louis 73 stings 109 stonework 34 Strong Current Surf Design 80 Sumo Connection 100 sunburn 109 sunscreen 113 Sunset Beach 48 Surf N Sea 79, 80 surfing 112 beaches 48–49 history 16 Sweet Leilani Era 32
T 21 Degrees North 93, 95 24-Hour Fitness 54 3660 on the Rise 59, 101 Tahitian Village 26 Tantalus Drive 66 Taste of Honolulu 36 tattooing, history of 17 taxes 115 taxis 107 Ted’s Bakery 81 telephone calls 108 TEMARI Center for Asian and Pacific Arts 66 Tenney Theatre 67 tennis 112 theaters 67 TheBus 107 theft 113 Thompson, Nainoa 31
126
Throne Room, ‘Iolani Palace 15 Thurston, Loren 31 time zone 108 tipping 110, 115 Toilet Bowl 23 Tokkuri-Tei 57 Tongan Village 26 tourism 31 tours, commercial 53 Transpacific Yacht Race 37 travelers’ checks 108 treks 42–43, 52 trespassing 109 trolleys 107 Turtle Bay Condominiums 117, 120 Turtle Bay Resort 79, 93, 117 TV 105, 108
U UH Sports 37 ‘ukelele making 35 Ulupū Heiau State Monument 91 Under a Hula Moon 94 University of Hawai’i 66 Urasenke Tea House 71 U.S. Army Museum 71 USS Arizona Memorial 9 USS Arizona Museum 8 USS Arizona Visitor Center 8 USS Bowfin Park 9 USS Bowfin Submarine Museum 9 USS Missouri 9
V Valley of the Temples Memorial Park 24 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing 37 visa requirements 104, 106 Visitors Bureaus 105 Vue Hawaii 100
Wai’anae Mountain Range 39 Waihe’e, John 31 Waikele Premium Outlets 88 Waikīkī 70–75 clubs and shows 75 map 70 places to eat 74 Waikīkī Aquarium 21 Waikīkī Beach 20, 46, 72 Waikīkī Beach Marriott Resort 118 Waikīkī Historic Trail 73 Waikīkī Joy Hotel 118 Waikīkī Parc 116 Waikīkī Sand Villa Hotel 120 Waikīkī Shell 21 Waikīkī Shores Condominium 119 Wailana Coffee House 74 Waimānolo Bay State Recreation Area 98, 99 Waimānolo Polo Field 99 Waimea Bay 49 Waimea Valley 77 Waipahu Town 88 walking see hiking and treks walking tours 112 War Memorial Natatorium 21 Washington Place 12 water 113 Wawāmalu Beach 23 weaving 34 websites 105 whaling 16 Wild Side Specialty Tours 87 wildlife 78 windsurfing 112 Windward O’ahu 90–95 map 90 places to eat 95 shopping 94 Wonderlounge, The 75
Y W Wahaiwā Botanical Gardens 41, 88 Wahaiwā Town 88 Wai’alae Beach County Park 46 Waialua Bakery 81 Wai’anae Boat Harbor 87 Wai’anae Chop Suey 89
Yellow Pages 105 Yokohama Bay 87
Z Zippy’s Restaurants 57, 101
Acknowledgments The Author Bonnie Friedman is a freelance writer and publicist living in Hawai’i.
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127
Glossary
Glossary of Useful Words & Terms Hawaiian began as an oral language and was put into written form by missionaries who arrived in the 1820s. The teaching and speaking of Hawaiian was banned from the early 1900s, and by the time the native cultural renaissance began in 1978 the melodious language was almost totally lost. Immersion programs are beginning to produce a new generation of Hawaiian speakers, however, and you will hear Hawaiian words sprinkled in conversation and in the islands’ music, as well as seeing it written on some signs. SUMMARY OF PRONUNCIATION The Hawaiian language has just 12 letters: the five vowels plus h, k, l, m, n, p, and w. unstressed vowels: a as in “above” e as in “bet” i as y in “city” o as in “sole” u as in “full” stressed vowels: ā as in “far” ē as in “pay” ī as in “see” ō as in “sole” ū as in “moon” consonants: h k l m n p w
as in “hat” as in “kick” as in “law” as in “mow” as in “now” as in “pin” as in “win” or “vine”
koh-hoh-laah
mauna pāhoehoe pali pu’u wai
mau-nah pah-hoy-hoy pah-lee poo-oo w(v)hy
ali’i heiau kahuna kapu kupuna
ahlee-ee hey-yow kah-hoo-nah kah-poo koo-poo-nah
luakini mana
looh-ahkee-nee mah-nah
mele oli
meh-leh oh-leeh
’ahi aku a’u
ah-hee ah-koo ah-oo how-peeah kah-loh kah-looah
laulau
lau-lau
The kahakō (macron) is a mark found only above vowels, indicating vowels should be stressed.
liliko’i limu lomi-lomi salmon
lee-lee-koh-ee lee-moo low-me low-me
kāne kōkua pūpū
lū’au mahimahi
loo-ow muh-heemuh-hee poy poo-poo oo-koo oo-looah
ahlee-ee leeleekoh-ee oh-hahnah
kah-nay koh-koo-ah poo-poo
EVERYDAY WORDS aloha
ah-loh-ha
hale hula kāhiko kapa keiki kōkua lānai lei lua mahalo ’ono ko’olau
ha-leh who-la kaa-hee-koh kah-pah kay-kee koh-koo-ah luh-nigh layh looah muh-ha-low oh-noh koh-oh-lowh
hello; goodbye; love house Hawaiian dance old, traditional bark cloth child help porch; balcony garland bathroom thank you delicious windward side
GEOGRAPHICAL & NATURE TERMS ’a’ā
ah-aah
kai
kaee
rough, jagged lava ocean
chief; royalty ancient temple priest; expert taboo elders; ancestors human sacrifice temple supernatural power song chant
FOOD WORDS
kalo kālua
ali’i liliko’i ’ohana
humpback whale mountain smooth lava cliff hill fresh water
HISTORICAL TERMS
haupia
The ’okina (glottal stop) is found at the beginning of some words beginning with vowels or between vowels. It is pronounced like the sound between the syllables in the English “uh-oh.”
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koholā
poi pūpū uku ulua
yellowfin tuna skipjack; bonito swordfish; marlin coconut pudding taro food baked slowly in an underground oven steamed filled ti-leaf packages passion fruit seaweed raw salmon with onion and tomato Hawaiian feast dorado; dolphin fish pounded taro appetizer gray snapper jackfish
PIDGIN Hawai’i’s unofficial conglomerate language is commonly heard on the street and in backyards throughout Hawai’i. You may hear: brah brother, pal broke da mout’ great food fo’ real really fo’ what why grinds food; also to grind howzit? how’s everything? kay den okay then laydahs later; goodbye no can cannot no mo’ nahting nothing shoots! yeah! stink eye dirty look talk story chat; gossip
