The Useful Culinary Herb Guide

(The Unofficial)

Useful

Culinary Herb Guide (As Collected from Various Sources)

Version 1.0

Table of Contents

Introduction 10 Best Herbs to Grow Herbs at a Glance (multi-information tables) Herbs to Start from Seeds Indoors (table) How Much Should You Plant? (table) Sowing Seeds Indoors Soil, Fertilizer, and pH Container Planting Planning an Herb Garden Landscaping with Herbs Plants for Pest Control (table) How to Make Herbal Teas How to Make Herbed Oils and Butters How to Make Herbed Vinegars Making Herbal Vinegar Making Fragrant Herbal & Floral Potpourri Herb Cooking Chart (table) Herb Harvesting Chart (table) Preserving Herbs Tips for Drying and Freezing Herbs Preparing the Garden for Winter Recommended Herbs for Indoors Growing Garlic Common Fungal Diseases Active Plant Constituents North American Plant Hardiness Zones Map

Introduction It is commonly known that herbs have been cultivated for thousands of years for many purposes: medicinal, culinary, aromatic, cosmetic, artistic, ornamental, pest control, etc. There has, however, been some disagreement or misunderstanding regarding the varying definitions of “herbs” especially vs. “spices”. For culinary herbs, the green, leafy part of a green-stemmed (non-woody) plant is typically used. However, a medicinal herb may be a shrub or other woody plant. By contrast, spices are the seeds, berries, bark, root, or other parts of the plant, even leaves in some cases.

10 Best Herbs to Grow One of the joys of summer is having plenty of fresh herbs to choose from in the garden. Below are some of my favorites, both for their beauty and their culinary usefulness. Keep in mind that herbs grow best in full sun with moderate moisture and well-drained soil.

Basil is tasty, rewarding, requires little care, and is delicious in Italian dishes. The shrubby pine-scented evergreen rosemary is perfect for topiaries and containers and useful in the kitchen. Culinary sage is my favorite for stuffing and sauces. It forms a woody stem with aromatic textured leaves. Bushy or creeping varieties of thyme have charming summer flowers and tiny leaves that add a delicate flavor to French and Italian recipes. Oregano is a bushy plant that produces lovely flower clusters. Greek oregano is best for cooking. Challenging-to-grow lavender needs sharply drained soil (mixed with sand or crushed shells)

and may be better grown in a container. Curly-leaf parsley is used in cooking and garnishes, though many cooks prefer flat-leaf. Common and garlic chives have slender grass-like foliage that is chopped and best used fresh in uncooked dishes. Handsome bronze fennel fits in well at the back of flower beds, as it forms tall clumps with dark feathery foliage and flat top flower clusters. Use both its leaves and seeds in cooking. Though sometimes a shorter plant, dill has similar growth, with blue-green foliage, and is especially delicious when cooked with fish.

HERBS AT A GLANCE Herb

Life Cycle

Aloe

Tender perennial; grown as houseplant

Angelica

2-5 years

Anise

Annual

Anise hyssop

Perennial

Basil, sweet

Annual

Bee balm

Perennial; can be invasive

Betony

Perennial

Borage

Hardy to Zone

Light

Soil

Use

Partial sun to full sun

Sandy, well drained

Medicinal

Partial shade to full sun

Moist, slightly acid

Culinary

Full sun

Sandy, well drained

Culinary, medicinal

Full sun

Moist. fertile, well drained

Culinary, tea, medicinal; repels imported cabbage moth

Full sun

Moist, fertile

Culinary, ornamental, crafts, medicinal; companion to tomatoes

3

Partial shade to full sun

Moist, fertile

Culinary, tea, crafts

4

Filtered shade to partial sun

Moist but well drained

Tea, medicinal, ornamental

Annual: selfseeds easily

Full sun to partial sun

Moist, fertile, well drained

Culinary, tea: attracts bees

Calendula

Annual

Full sun

Average fertility, well drained

Culinary, medicinal, cosmetic

Caraway

Annual or biennial

3

Full sun to filtered shade

Sandy, fertile, well drained

Culinary, medicinal

Catnip

Perennial

3

Full sun to partial shade

Average fertility, welt drained

Tea, medicinal, crafts, cosmetic

Chamomile German

Annual

Full sun

Well drained

Tea, medicinal, cosmetic

10

4

5

HERBS AT A GLANCE Herb

Life Cycle

Chamomile Perennial Roman

Hardy to Zone

Light

Soil

5

Partial shade

Average fertility

Tea, medicinal, cosmetic

Partial to filtered shade

Moist, fertile

Culinary

Full sun

Moist, fertile Well-drained.

Culinary, ornamental

Full sun to partial shade

Moist, fertile, Well-drained

Culinary

Use

Chervil

Annual

Chives

Perennial

Cilantro

Annual

Clary

Biennial

4

Full sun

Well-drained, average fertility

Culinary, medicinal, ornamental, aromatic, cosmetic

Comfrey

Perennial, can be invasive

3

Full sun to partial shade

Moist, fertile, well-drained

Medicinal (external use only), cosmetic

Dill

Annual, selfseeds easily

Full sun

Moist, fertile, well-drained

Culinary; attracts bees and other beneficial insects

Fennel

Perennial, grown as annual

3

Full sun

Moist, fertile, well-drained

Culinary, medicinal, ornamental, cosmetic

Feverfew

Perennial

5

Full sun

Average

Ornamental, driedarrangements, medicinal

Geraniums, scented

Perennial (over-winter indoors)

10

Full sun

Moist, fertile, well-drained

Ornamental, aromatic

Hyssop

Perennial

4

Full sun to partial shade

Light, welldrained

Culinary, tea, ornamental, cosmetic, attracts bees

Lavender

Perennial

5-8

Full sun

Light, welldrained

Aromatic, crafts, ornamental, culinary, cosmetic, medicinal

Lemon Balm

Perennial

4

Full sun to partial shade

Average, welldrained

Tea, culinary, aromatic, cosmetic, attracts bees

3

HERBS AT A GLANCE Herb

Life Cycle

Hardy to Zone Light

Soil

Use

Lemongrass

Perennial (overwinter indoors)

9

Full sun to partial shade

Fertile, deep, moist, welldrained

Culinary, tea, aromatic

Lemon Verbena

Perennial (over-winter indoors)

9

Full sun

Fertile, deep, moist

Aromatic, tea, culinary cosmetic

Lovage

Perennial

4

Full sun to partial shade

Fertile, moist, well-drained

Culinary, medicinal

Marjoram, sweet

Perennial, grown as annual

10

Full sun

Light, dry well-drained

Culinary, ornamental, crafts

Mints

Perennial

4-5

Full sun to partial shade

Fertile, moist, well-drained

Culinary, tea, aromatic, medicinal, cosmetic

Nasturtium

Annual

Full sun to partial shade

Low fertility, moist well-drained

Ornamental, culinary, cosmetic

Oregano

Perennial

5

Full sun

Average, welldrained

Culinary, crafts, medicinal

Parsley

Biennial

5

Full sun to partial shade

Fertile, moist, well-drained

Culinary, cosmetic

Pennyroyal

Perennial

5

Full sun to partial shade

Fertile, moist, well-drained

Cosmetic, insect repellant

Rue

Perennial

4

Full sun

Low Fertility, well-drained

Ornamental, insect repellant

Saffron crocus

Perennial

6

Full sun to partial shade

Sandy, welldrained

Culinary

Sage

Perennial

4

Full sun to partial shade

Average, welldrained

Culinary, medicinal, dried-crafts, cosmetic

Santolina

Perennial

6

Full sun

Low fertility, well-drained

Dried crafts, insect repellant

HERBS AT A GLANCE Herb

Life Cycle

Hardy to Zone

Light

Soil

Use

Full sun

Low fertility, well-drained

Culinary

5

Full sun

Low fertility, well-drained

Culinary

Perennial

4

Full sun

Average, well-drained

Dried crafts, cosmetic, insect repellent

Sweet cicely

Perennial

3

Filtered sun to partial shade

Rich, moist, well-drained

Culinary, ornamental

Sweet woodruff

Perennial

3

Shade to Partial shade

Moist, humusy, well-drained

Aromatic, dried potpourris and herbal wreaths

Tansy

Perennial

4

Full sun to partial shade

Average, well-drained

Dried crafts and arrangements, insect repellant

Tarragon, French

Perennial

4

Full sun to partial shade

Average, welldrained

Culinary

Thyme

Perennial

5

Full sun to partial shade

Sandy, welldrained

Culinary, ornamental, cosmetic; insect repellant

Valerian

Perennial

4

Full sun to partial shade

Rich, moist, well-drained

Ornamental, medicinal

Vervain, European

Annual

Full sun

Rich, moist, well-drained

Ornamental

Violet

Perennial

5

Partial shade to full sun

Rich, moist, well-drained

Ornamental, culinary

Wormwood

Perennial

4

Full sun to partial shade

Low fertility, well-drained

Dried crafts; insect repellant

Yarrow

Perennial

2

Full sun

Rich, welldrained

Ornamental, dried arrangements, cosmetic

Savory, summer

Annual

Savory, winter

Perennial

Southernwood

HERBS TO START FROM SEED INDOORS These herbs are usually grown from seed started indoors and transplanted to the garden. Use this chart to learn when to sow, how to start them, and when its safe to transplant them outdoors. Herb Starting Germination or Starting Transplant Outdoors Date Requirements Angelica

July-August

Seeds are viable only when fresh, require light for germination, start in moist medium at 60°F

See Directory, page 101

Anise

March-April

Start in peat pots at 70°F

Frost-free date

Anise hyssop

March-April

Start in peat pots ar 70°F

Frost-free date

Basil

April-May

Start in moist medium at 80°F

1 week after frost-free date

Bee balm

March-April

Start in moist medium at 75°F

1 week before frost-free date

Berony

March-April

Start in moist medium at 75°F

Frost-free date

Borage

March-April

Start in pear pots at 75°F

Frost-free date

Calendula

March-April

Start in moist medium at 70°-75°

2 week before frost-free date

Chives

March-April

Start in moist: medium at 70°F, seeds require darkness.

2 weeks before frost-free date

Clary

March-April

Freeze 3-5 days before sowing, seeds require darkness, start in moist medium at 60 o-65°F

1 week before frost-free date

Feverfew

April

Start in moist medium at 75°-80°F

2 weeks after frost-free date

Lavender

March-April

Seeds require light for germination, start in moist medium at 70°F

Frost-free date

Lemongrass

March-April

Start in moist medium at 75°-85°F

See Directory, page 126

Marjoram

March-April

Start in moist medium at 70°-75°F

Frost-free date

Mints

March-April

Start in moist medium at 70°-75°F

1 week before frost-free date

Oregano

March-April

Start in moist medium ar 70°F

1 week before frost-free date

Parsley

March-April

See Directory, page 134

1 week before frost-free date

Rue

March

Start in moist medium at 75°F

Frost-free date, wait until seedlings are 2"-3" tall

Sage

March-April

Freeze 3-5 days before sowing, seeds require darkness, start in moist medium at 60°-65°F

1 week befbre frost-free date

Sancolina

March-April

Start in moist medium at 75°F

Frost-free date

Tansy

March-April

Start in moist medium at 75°-80°F

Frost-free date

Thyme

March-April

Start in moist medium at 70°F

1 week before frost-free date

Valerian

March-April

Start in moist medium at 75°F

Frost-free date

Wormwood

March-April

Start in moist medium at 70°F

1 week before frost-free date

How Much Should You Plant? Herb Angelica Anise (for seeds) Anise hyssop Basil

For Cooking

For Tea or Preserving

1 plant

1 plant

6 plants

Herb

Tea or For Cooking For Preserving

Lavender

2 plants

6-12 plants

Lemon balm

4 plants

6-12 plants

2 clumps

2 - 3 plants

8-12 plants

Lemongrass

4-6 plants*

8-12 plants

Lemon verbena 3-4 plants

10-12 plants

6 plants

Lovage

1 plant

1 plant

Bee balm Betony

1-2 plants

6-12 plants

Marjoram

2-4 plants

6-10 plants

Borage

1 plant

2-4 plants

Mints

1-2 plants

8-12 plants

Calendula

6 plants

12 plants

Nasturtium

6 - 8 plants

Caraway

6 plants

12 plants

Oregano

2-4 plants

6-12 plants

Catnip

12 plants

Parsley

6 plants

12-18 plants

Chamomile

40-60 plants

Rosemary

1 plant

2-3 plants

Chervil

6 plants*

12 plants

Saffron crocus

Chives

4 clumps

6 clumps

Sage

1-2 planes

4-6 plants

Cilantro

12 plants*

20-40 plants

Savory, summer 2-4 plants

6-8 plants

Clary

1 plant

6 plants

Savory, winter

2-4 plants

6-8 plants

Dill

10 plants*

20-40 plants

Tarragon

1 plant

2-3 plants

Fennel

1-2 plants

4-5 plants

Thyme

6 plants

12-18 plants

Hyssop

2 plants

12-36 plants

50 plants

Sowing Seeds Indoors

Annual herbs that need a long growing season such as sunflowers, anise and sweet peppers, are best started indoors or in a warm greenhouse, and early crops of basil, sweet marjoram and borage can be sown indoors in the spring. If your garden is small or the seed is precious, then it is worth germinating herbs indoors in a sterile soil instead of exposing them in the hazards outside. Do not be tempted to sow the seed too early or the seedlings will outgrow their box and become weak and leggy before the weather is warm enough for them to be transplanted outside. Wooden or well-drained plastic seed boxes are suitable for quantities of seeds, or plant 3 or 4 in a flower pot or any other suitable container, such as a yoghurt pot, with a hole punched in the bottom. Fill these with bought seed compost or with sand mixed half and half with garden earth or the finely crumbed earth from molehills. Home-made mixtures should be sterilized in a hot oven for an hour. Moisten the compost or earth thoroughly and sprinkle the seeds over it. well spaced, then cover with a fine sprinkling of earth, spray lightly with tepid water and label clearly. Cover the boxes with glass to hold in the moisture and newspaper to keep out the light - darkness will hasten germination - and put them in a warm place beside the stove or boiler or in an airing cupboard. Check them every day and, at the first sign of germiniation, move the seed tray into the light. When the seedlings are large enough to be handled with a little wooden spatula, pick them out into pots, a deeper seed box or peat pots rilled with a more nourishing soil. Although the spores of the tiny fungi that cause the "damping off" of seedlings are less likely to occur in sterilized earth, they may attack weakened, newly picked out seedlings. Watering or spraying with a weak camomile infusion has been recommended if the seedlings begin to flag or if white mould appears on the earth. Plant the sturdy young herbs outside as soon as the frosts are past and protect any that have become leggy with a cloche or windbreak for a few days until they have firmed up.

A capering of glass will keep a moist atmosphere in the tray, encouraging the seeds to germinate. Remove as the first sprouts appear and pick out the seedlings as soon as they arc targe enough.

Soil, Fertalizer, and pH In terms of herb gardening, container gardening is a method that truly goes hand-in-trowel. All of the many pages written on the growing of herbs can be reduced to three major factors that most herbs need to grow well: lots of sunlight, plenty of air circulation, and well-drained soil that is kept a little on the dry side. Growing herbs in containers and small raised beds readily meets these criteria. As a result, herbs grown in containers often do much better than those grown in the garden.

Preparing the Soil Mix After sun, air, and soil moisture, the most important single element necessary for the success of container gardening is the soil mix. Plants grow best when their root systems are able to spread easily through the soil, getting the right balance of water, air, and nutrients. Too much or too little of any one will result in unhealthy or dead plants. The following is a recommended soil mix based on equal parts of four ingredients: topsoil, coarse perlite, peat moss, and coarse sand. Each of these items can be purchased at most garden supply stores. The topsoil should be of good quality preferably sterilized topsoil available in bags at garden centers (soil collected directly from the garden should not be used in containers, in most cases it is too heavy, and it often harbors harmful insects and diseases). Soilless, commercially packed container mixes, on the other hand, tend to be so light that fast-growing roots soon make herbs potbound. These mixes also dry out very quickly. Perlite is volcanic pumice. It loosens the soil and keeps it from becoming compacted. Be sure to buy coarse perlite. Do not substitute vermiculite for the perlite, as herbs do not grow well in it. Peat moss adds humus to the soil. Alternatives to peat moss include expandable blocks of coconut fiber and homemade or purchased compost. The final ingredient is coarse sand or fine gravel, which ensures good drainage and soil aeration. Chicken or turkey grit can be substituted. Alternatively, if you have access to top-quality loam soil from a mulch or landscape company, you can prepare a container mix by blending 1 part loam soil and 1 part soilless potting medium such as a peat/perlite mix.

Fertilizers and pH You may have read that herbs grow in poor soil, but because container plantings are watered frequently, the nutrients get washed away from the roots more quickly than in the garden so in reality they respond well to some fertilization. To give a packaged potting mix more substance, boost its consistency by blending it with sterilized compost (available in bags at most nurseries) at a ratio of 2 parts potting mix to 1 part compost. Consider using one of the various complete organic or natural fertilizers that are commercially available. It is advisable to feed container-grown plants at least once a week when they're actively growing. Either scratch granular organic fertilizer into the soil surface or water with a soluble organic fertilizer, if desired. With either method, follow the manufacturer's recommendations. The easiest method is to choose what is called a complete fertilizer — one that contains nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, as indicated by the three numbers on the bag. You can also mix your own from individual components. Fertilizers containing kelp or other seaweed and emulsion seem to particularly benefit plants; good mixes include enzymes, vitamins and minerals, liquid humus, marine algae, and chelating agents (which make minerals more readily available to plants). The pH of a soil reflects the hydrogen ion concentration and affects nutrient uptake. The pH is based on a scale of 1 to 14, with 7 being neutral; numbers below 7 indicate an increasingly acidic soil and numbers above 7 indicate an increasingly alkaline soil. Most herbs grow in a pH range of 6 to 7, which is provided with the recommended soil mixture described above. If you want to be sure, you can check the soil pH before planting and then occasionally throughout the growing season. Inexpensive test kits or pH meters are available at garden centers. To make a soil more alkaline, thoroughly mix in some dolomitic lime; to make a soil more acidic, mix in some elemental sulfur powder.

Container Planting The range of containers available, either commercially or from found objects, is staggering. Of these, the best materials for growing herbs are those that are porous. Porous containers allow the roots more access to air, and also allow soil to dry out more quickly (in general, herbs hate having wet feet). This narrows the range to containers made of terra-cotta and wood. Although plastic and fiberglass pots are lightweight, their nonporous nature causes them to dry out more slowly than porous containers. If you want to experiment with nonporous containers, go ahead, but put most of your money and effort into wood and terra-cotta.

Advantages of Terra Cotta Although terra-cotta pots are generally preferred for herbs, they have several disadvantages. Besides their cost and weight, these common, reddish clay pots are likely to crack and break in freezing weather. To prevent this, they must either be emptied and turned upside down before cold weather or stored in a garage or basement over the winter. Another problem with clay is that, in the heat of summer, a terracotta pot can get very hot and dry out very quickly, especially if it is set on brick, stone, concrete, or asphalt. Because plant roots grow to the outside of the root ball, the heat and dry conditions can damage them. To alleviate this problem, raise the pot several inches above the surface or double-pot by inserting one container inside another and filling in between with long-fibered sphagnum moss.

Advantages of Wood Wooden containers offer certain advantages. They do not heat up as much as clay, and they do not freeze and break. Containers made of redwood or cedar are very long-lasting. Those made of spruce or pine will deteriorate after two to five years, depending on the conditions. Treated wood should not be used for growing edibles, as there is potential harm from the chemicals used. If you want to treat the wood yourself, use a preservative called Woodlife. In general, choose larger pots over smaller ones. Most individual herbs should be planted in pots 12 to 14 inches in diameter and about 12 inches deep. Larger containers require less water and, consequently, less fertilizing. Containers for mixed plantings are best at 24 to 36 inches in diameter.

Advantages of Plastic Plastic containers offer several advantages, although the type, durability, and color of the plastic must be considered also. Plastic containers of all varieties are comparatively inexpensive, widely available in stores even if the containers were originally intended for some other use, and even easily recycled from food or storage containers around the house. They are light-weight, do not crumble or rot in water; infact, plastic is a good material for keeping water in the soil rather than having it seeping or evaporating out faster (which may be both good and bad). As plastic comes in a variety of colors, the containers can be chosen not only for appearance but also to impact soil temperature as desired, as light colored plastic reflects sunlight, and dark plastic absorbs sunlight, thereby providing more heat to the soil and roots. Plastic is also easy to clean after use, and is flexible, making the removal of soil and plants easier, and is easy to cut, melt, or drill if additional drainage holes are required.

Small Raised Beds Small raised beds lack the mobility of containers but otherwise are able to meet the basic growing criteria. An area only 4 or 6 feet square readily accommodates 8 to 10 herbs. Mail-order garden supply companies and local garden centers offer a variety of units that can be set up quickly with little or no do-it-yourself skills.

Planting a Window Box The concept of growing herbs in window boxes is an idyllic one, complete with scents wafting through the screen. The reality is that most commercially available window boxes are too small for productive growth. It is better to have them specially made, with a depth of at least 10 inches. Such a size will make the box very heavy, so be sure to attach it securely to the house.

Tricks to Retain Moisture in Containers During the hot months of summer, container-grown plants dry out quickly and may need watering once—even twice—a day. Here are some ways to escape the tyranny of tending pots: • Choose a container that retains moisture. The materials with the lowest evaporation rate are plastic, fiberglass, metal, and glazed ceramic, often called terra cotta. The most porous materials are clay (unglazed ceramic), wood, and concrete. Generally, plants in porous pots need watering three times more often than those in plastic or metal containers. • Pick white containers, which tend to reflect heat, thus somewhat reducing the rate of evaporation. Dark-colored pots, on the other hand, absorb heat, causing the soil to dry out faster. • Find a pot that is slightly larger than the plant requires, The extra soil will hold more moisture. • Blend soil polymers—available at most garden centers—which hold moisture, into your container mix. • Place decorative bark or pebbles on top of the soil to slow surface evaporation. Or cover the soil with an organic mulch of compost or grass clippings and top with the bark or pebbles. • Group containers together to shade and humidify each other. Place the small pots, which are likely to dry out first, in the center of the cluster. • Shelter pots from desiccating wind.

•

Install an automatic irrigation system with a line running to each container. The initial effort may seem great, but so will be the rewards.

Planning an Herb Garden Before embarking on your design, consider how much lime and effort you are willing to put into your herb garden and how much maintenance any proposed scheme is likely to require. Don't be too ambitious or it will become a chore rather than a pleasure. If you are new to gardening, start with a small area or a few large containers and a limited number ol herbs. As your enthusiasm grows, you can expand your herb garden and its contents.

SELECTING YOUR SITE The ideal site is quiet and sunny with a protective surround. These conditions suit most herbs and will help to make a peaceful retreat. Such ready-made idyllic sites are few and far between but they are not difficult to create. Aim for an area wrhere at least three-quarters of the space is in the sun for most of the day. As many aromatic herbs are Mediterranean in origin, a slope that faces the sun for five to six hours each day is ideal as it will offer good drainage as well as extra solar energy. Spend time in the proposed site, noting the sun's passage over it, where shadows fall, which corners are sheltered from wind and the areas where water collects. If any part of the plot is waterlogged, it is worth making rubble-filled trenches, laying drainage pipes or making raised beds before starting any further work, lo avoid future frustration and loss of plants. Consider wind protection, particularly for evergreen herbs such as rosemary and sweet bay in the spring, and around a proposed seat or bench. A traditional hedge or wall (a frequent asset in small city gardens), or a screen supporting climbing plants, creates a feeling of seclusion, confines the perfumes of aromatic plants and reduces wind buffeting. It can also reduce outside noise and mask undesirable views. Apart from considering the physical aspects of a site, think about its location in terms of how you plan to use it. Will herbs be close lo your kitchen door for convenient picking? Will their scents drifl indoors? Or do you want to create an herb garden retreat, removed from household activities?

DESIGNING YOUR GARDEN Having selected your site, decide on the style of garden you want; whether it is to be a formal scheme following geometric patterns or an informal collection or grouping that dictates its own shape. The style of your home and neighborhood may give you a preference for formality or informality, or you may decide to try a combination of the two. Look at the pictures of other herb gardens in magazines and books and try to visit any in your area. Formal herb gardens are based on well-defined patterns and geometric shapes, with the beds and paths designed to give a sense of order and balance as well as access. Traditionally, the planting schemes were relatively sparse, with the emphasis on individual species. Today, many gardeners prefer to contrast the exuberant natural growth of herbs with the tidy formality of traditional designs. In informal gardens, plants are massed together in a profusion of color and different species, with the herbs often intermingled with flowers and vegetables. The effect is natural and romantic. However, such seemingly disorganized growth requires planning so that neighboring plants complement rather than clash, and have sufficient sunlight. Paths must still provide access, so some structure is necessary to make the overall design work and to allow for maintenance.

DRAWING UP A PLAN Once you have selected your site, measure its sides and prepare to draw up the area on squared grid paper, making each square on your grid represent a convenient measurement, such as 6 inches. Start the measurements from a baseline that is either parallel to your house or at right angles to it. Draw in the measured outline of your site in clear bold lines and mark in the main fixtures that will remain: fences, buildings, trees, etc. Be as accurate as possible and note any changes of level that may require steps or raised beds.

Now you are ready to try out some design schemes with tracing paper laid over the site plan. Establish the overall feel of a design before filling in any detail, and be prepared to discard page after page. Everyone has a natural sense of beauty and shape, often buried by looking too much at detail, but eventually you will know when a design feels right. Then you can start to mark in paths, beds and other details. If you wish lo make a modern, free-flowing design, start with bold sweeping lines. People often have a tendency to draw small tight curves, but when translated into three dimensions, all lines are exaggerated. Hold up the design to a mirror to check its balance. If you are designing a formal scheme, make a loose grid of lines on ihe plan based on the surroundings. Extend the lines of ihe house, doors, windows, garage, walls, and other boundaries so you have a selection of lines to choose your main pathways from. Each path should then line up with an existing structure, integrating your design.

PATHS For convenient access, herbs should never be more than 2 feet 6 inches from a path, so beds should measure no more than 4 or 5 feet across unless you insert stepping stones. Paths are also crucial to design for the color and patterns they can bring, as well as the way they can define shape (see below). In all garden plans, avoid putting a path straight through the space. It suggests rushing ahead, whereas an herb garden should be a place where you linger. Have a path change direction, or break its flow by altering the pattern of its fabric or adding a piece of sculpture or a tall herb.

FILLING IN THE DETAILS Your design should now be an interesting pattern of lines. This is the lime to extend your conception into three dimensions. Imagine you are sculpting paths and layers through a large cube of greenery. Consider adding different levels and further interest to the design. Three parallel lines on a plan need not necessarily mean a path and a border, they could represent three steps, a change of pattern in the path, or an edging herb. Decide what form of enclosure to have, bearing in mind any views you may wish either to hide or to emphasize. Place a chair where you propose to have a seat and stick canes into the ground at different heights to consider the effect various enclosures may have.

WORKING OUT A PLANTING SCHEME Once you have planned the garden's physical layout, plot out where you might position the plants you want to grow in terms of their requirements and usage: culinary plants hy the kitchen door, aromatic plants under the windows, further beds of dye, historical or medicinal plants, depending on your interests. Check the respective requirements of individual plants, and plot out their positions, bearing in mind aspects like contrasting leaf size and color, complementary plant shapes and heights. As a guide, one plant per square foot or ten per square yard allows plenty of space for perennials to grow. Position annuals so you don't have to disturb perennials when planting or removing them. Use tall plants as focal points in central beds or as screens. Where you have the space, group several plants of the same species together to increase their effect. Use grid paper to plot out their eventual ground size as well as their colors and height. Often plants are drawn as liny circles when in fact they are exuberant growers. Close planting may look effective but soon leads to overcrowding. Fortunately, most herbs arc easy to transplant.

MARKING OUT THE SITE Once the soil has been prepared for planting, transfer your design to the ground. Mark out the boundaries of the plot with stakes, then start to mark out the beds and paths. You can use a large cardboard box as a set square to help indicate right angles in the soil for geometric designs. As a guide for angles of 45°, mark the two diagonals on the square end of a box with colored tape. To draw out circles, make a compass using a cane as a central stake and a marker that reaches the ground on a taut piece of string. To mark out small repeated shapes, use a card template and trace around it. Delineate areas with string and pegs or a sprinkling of lime.

GARDEN DESIGNS The illustrations below show some of the ways in which a rectangular or square space can be divided to make a formal arrangement of beds and linking paths. Other traditional designs are a simple ladder shape with square beds between narrow brick paths or wooden planks, and stepping stones arranged in a checkerboard pattern.

Brick Circle Bricks unarmed in a circular path enclose into intersecting paths which cross at the center.

Brick Diamond Bricks arranged in a herringbone pattern add extra interest and flow to this design.

Square within Square Tiles arranged as diamonds and laid in concrete give a simple design an ornate effect.

Diagonal Paths A mixture of paving materials emphasizing lines to create a knot garden effect.

Interlocking Diamonds A diamond ribbon of santolina entwines with one of dwarf box. Where a hedge meets a brick path, the pattern is continued with a line of pebbles.

Oblongs and Right Angles A long central bed is enclosed by bricks that have been laid out in a herringbone pattern to add extra interest to the design.

Diamonds and Squares A brick path divides square beds and creates a central diamond shape. The beds are edged with curry plane and box to emphasise their shape.

Wheel Beds Cartwheels are a practical and effective way to divide beds into separate planting arms. Here, a gravel path surrounds and links each wheel.

Landscaping with Herbs Unfortunately,

most of us tend to think of herbs as plants for the windowsill, back garden, vegetable garden, or as stand-alone grouped plantings, as in English herb gardens. The truth is, herbs are very versatile plants that can be used as Ground Covers, fillers, additions to ornamental flower gardens, and along walkways and pathways for their fragrance as you brush against them. When used in these ways, they can be harvested at will for their culinary and medicinal benefits. People with small plots of land would be well advised to use herbs generously in their landscapes to benefit from ALL the properties of herbs - ornamental, culinary, fragrant, and medicinal. Remember the definition of the word Herb as being a useful plant. For edging pathways and walkways, try Scented Geraniums for their quaint beauty, or Lamb's Ears for a more refined, grayish look. Parsley makes a nice front-of-the border green plant for flower gardens, as do Chives with their grass-like looks and cheery flowers. In the perennial garden, plant any of the Basils during the summer as fillers, and for winter interest, plant Silver King Artemisia, which has lovely silvery foliage and withstands the cold admirably. Also consider Beebalm, Yarrow, Garlic Chives, Sage, Feverfew, Rue, and Foxglove when considering plants for the mixed border. Many of the herbs serve as useful and fragrant ground covers in shade where nothing else does well. Try Sweet Woodruff, scented Pennyroyal, Chamomile, or Violets. These can be used instead of the usual ivy or pachysandra. Also try Angelica, Lemon Balm, Evening Primrose, Valerian, Chervil, Goldenseal, or Lungwort to add texture and color. For a full-sun groundcover, try Bearberry. In the vegetable garden, many of the herbs also serve as Companion Plants. You should try not to plant any of the perennials in spaces that you are going to till on a regular basis, so check out the Annual and Biennial Herb sections of this page for reasonable choices. For the Perennial Herbs, choose sites in the garden where other Perennials are growing for a continuous show. Herbs can be used as ground covers. The Mints and Chamomiles are legendary for their abilities to take root and cover an area as fragrant ground covers. Be sure that you have some kind of barrier to keep them within their bounds. Creeping Thymes are wonderful for filling in between stepping stones, and release their fragrances when stepped upon. For covering bare walls, Rosemary is a favorite that smells wonderful and easily cascades over the structure. As a screen, Fennel makes a feathery and useful plant, as do some of the ornamental salvias. Try nasturtium in the vining form for a peppery treat in the kitchen, as well as a good-looking annual screening plant. I know that some of these herbs are hard to find at the local home center or department store. But seeds can be ordered through many sources on the internet, which is a great thing. Check out some vendors to get your seeds for next year. Some of these herbs have to be planted in the fall for a spring crop. Regardless, now is the time to order the catalogs so that you will be prepared for the spring rush.

PLANTS FOR PEST CONTROL

PEST

REPELLANT

Ants

Catnip, Mint, Onion, Peppermint, Spearmint, Tansy, Wormwood

Aphids

Catnip, Chives, Coriander, Dried & Crushed Chrysanthemum, Eucalyptus, Fennel, Feverfew (attracts aphids away from Roses), Garlic, Larkspur, Marigold, Mint, Mustard, Nasturtium, Onion, Oregano, Petunia, Sunflower

Asparagus Beetle

Basil, Parsley, Petunia, Pot Marigold, Tomato

Bean Beetle

Rosemary, Savory

Black Flea Beetle

Artemisia, Sage

Cabbage Looper

Dill, Eucalyptus, Garlic, Hyssop, Peppermint, Nasturtium, Onion, Pennyroyal, Sage, Southernwood, Spearmint, Thyme, Wormwood

Cabbage Maggot

Garlic, Marigold, Radish, Sage, Wormwood

Cabbage Moth

Artemisia, Hyssop, Rosemary, Sage, Savory, Thyme

Cabbage Worm

Celery, Thyme, Tomato

Carrot Fly

Leeks, Lettuce, Onion, Rosemary, Sage, Tobacco, Wormwood

Colorado Potato Beetle

Catnip, Coriander, Eucalyptus, Green Bean, Marigold, Nasturtium, Onion, Tansy

Corn Earworm

Cosmos, Geranium, Marigold, Radish (gone to seed)

Cucumber Beetle

Catnip, Marigold, Nasturtium, Radish, Rue, Tansy

Cutworm

Spiny Amaranth

Flea

Artemisia, Pennyroyal

Flea Beetle

Catnip, Garlic, Mint, Rue, Sage, Southernwood, Tansy, Tobacco, Wormwood

Fly

Basil, Pennyroyal, Rue, Tansy

Imported Cabbageworm

Dill, Garlic, Geranium, Hyssop, Mint, Nasturtium, Onion, Pennyroyal, Sage, Southernwood, Tansy, Thyme

Japanese Beetle

Ageratum, Arbortivae, Artemesia, Ash, Begonia, Boxwood, Caladium, Catnip, Chives, Cockscomb, Garlic, Hydrangea, Juniper, Pansy, Rue (with Roses & Raspberries), Tansy, White Geranium, Yew

Leafhopper

Dried & Crushed Chrysanthemum, Geranium, Petunia

Mexican Bean Beetle

Marigold, Petunia, Rosemary, Savory

Mice

Tansy, Wormwood

Mosquitoes

Basil, Garlic, Geranium, Pennyroyal

Mole

Castor Bean, Narcissus

Moths

Lavender (combine with Southernwood), Wormwood, and Rosemary for an anti-moth sachet)

Peach Borer

Garlic

Nematode

Marigold

Onion Fly

Garlic

Potato Bug

Dead Nettle, Flax, Horseradish

Rabbit

Garlic, Marigold, Onion

Snails

Artemisia, Fennel, Garlic, Rosemary

Slugs

Artemisia, Fennel, Garlic, Rosemary, Sage

Spider Mite

Coriander

Squash Bug

Catnip, Mint, Nasturtium, Petunia, Radish, Tansy

Squash Vine Borer

Radish

Striped Cucumber Beetle

Tansy

Striped Pumpkin Beetle

Nasturtium

Ticks

Garlic

Tomato Hornworms

Dill, Borage, Marigold, Petunia, Pot Marigold, Opal Basil

White Cabbage Moth

Mint

Whitefly

Basil, Marigold, Oregano, Peppermint, Thyme, Wormwood

How to Make Herbal Teas People have used herbal teas for centuries, first for medicinal use, and later for enjoyment as tasty and refreshing beverages. Not all herbs are suitable for making tea, so become informed on each particular herb before ingesting a tea made from it. The steps involved in making both enjoyable beverages and medicinal teas are pretty much the same. The major difference is that when making medicinal teas, more attention should be paid to covering the water pot as much as possible to entrap the beneficial properties of the herb. While the aroma of the tea is part of the enjoyment for making beverages, there should be no aroma when making teas for medicinal uses. Having said that, making a pot of herbal tea is actually an easy, enjoyable thing to do. Bring cool water to a boil, and then rinse a non-metal container with some of the water. Metal containers can interfere with the purity of the tea. Add 2 tablespoons of fresh, or 1 tablespoon of dried herb (or crushed seed) to the pot for each cup of water, plus an extra 2 tablespoons of fresh or 1 tablespoon of dried "for the pot." (For iced tea, increase to 3 tablespoons of fresh and 2 tablespoons of dried herb to allow for watering down by melting ice). Therefore, if making 2 cups of hot tea, you would use 6 tablespoons of fresh herb or 3 tablespoons of dried. Put the herbs in the non-metal pot, and pour the boiling water over the herbs. Let them steep, covered, for about 5 minutes. This is not an exact time, and you should check at varying intervals to find the right strength for your purposes. Strain the herbs out of the water when the desired strength is reached. Garnish with herb sprigs, honey, or citrus fruits. Below is a chart containing some ideas for herb blends that can be used in teas. This is a starting point, but you can certainly experiment with different combinations on your own. Anise, Marjoram, Lemon Verbena Angelica, Clove, Orange Peel, Nutmeg Elderberry, Lemon Balm, Spearmint Anise, Chamomile Lemon Verbena, Borage Beebalm, Ginger Lemongrass, Savory, Scented Geranium Lemongrass, Rosemary, Thyme Chamomile, Horehound Chicory, Ginseng, Cinnamon Chamomile, Valerian Basil, Lemongrass, Lemon Verbena, Lemon Thyme Ginger, Pennyroyal, Peppermint Chamomile, Apple Mint

How to Make Herbed Oils & Butters Herbal Oils & Butters are easy to make and are wonderful additions to the chef's kitchen. Unfortunately, it has come to light recently that oils containing herbs that are not stored properly provide the perfect environment for the very harmful toxin we know as botulism. Commercial herb/oil preparations contain substances that inhibit the growth of these toxins, but we at home do not have these resources. The beautiful bottles filled with herbs don't have to be history, however. You can still have that fragrant and good looking holiday oil, but it has to be stored properly in the refrigerator, and for only 3 weeks maximum. Having said that, I will list below both the old-fashioned way of making herbal gourmet oils, and the more accepted new way that is safer and stores better. Herbed Oils Herbed Oils can be used in a variety of marinades, sautes, salads, and as a dip for crusty breads. The proportion of oil to herb is important as far as strength and taste of the finished product, so use the guidelines below to start, and then feel free to experiment on your own with different combinations and strengths. The new procedure for making flavored herbal oils is to measure the appropriate amount of cleaned and chopped herbs (1/2 cup chopped fresh herb sprigs or leaves and 1/4 cup dried), place in a non-metal pan with a cup of oil (olive, peanut, safflower, or sunflower oil are appropriate), then gently sauté the herbs in the oil until it's fragrant and warm - about 5 minutes. Sauté gently and do not let this mixture come to a boil. Strain, place in decorative bottles, and store in the refrigerator. These oils will stay good longer than the old-fashioned kind, but in general they should be made on-the-fly whenever needed and not stored for over a month or so. Please check out the link below for combinations of herbs that go well with different types of oils. If you prefer to start out simply, you can make single-herb oils. See below for a sampling of some herbs and the appropriate types of oil to try. This is not a complete list by any stretch, so do experiment on your own once you are comfortable with the basics.

Olive Oil goes well with Basil, Fennel, Garlic, Cayenne, Rosemary, Thyme, Tarragon.

Herb Combinations for Oils & Butters Oils Type of Oil

Herbal Combinations

Olive Oil

• • • • • • •

Garlic, Oregano, Thyme Saffron, Garlic Basil, Cayenne, Garlic Lovage, Garlic, Celery Leaf Garlic, Sliced or Spiraled Lemon Peel Rosemary, Garlic, Sun-Dried Tomatoes Lemongrass, Star Anise

Peanut Oil

• •

Chervil, Tarragon, Shallots Basil, Garlic

Safflower Oil

• •

Ginger, Coriander Leaf Garlic, Basil

Sunflower Oil

• •

Dill, Garlic Basil, Garlic

Butters

Breakfast Butters

Vegetables, Chicken, Fish, Breads

• • • •

Lovage, Beebalm Dill, Mint Lemon Verbena, Orange Peel Tansy, Costmary

• • •

Garlic, Marjoram Chives, Sesame Seed Basil, Oregano, Thyme

HOW TO MAKE HERBED VINEGARS

Herbal vinegars are easy to make, are wonderful additions to the chef's kitchen, and make elegant yet inexpensive gifts for just about any occasion. You can buy inexpensive decorative bottles, employ used wine bottles, or utilize unusual flea market finds and fill them with all sorts of exotic combinations that look fabulous displayed on a shelf, and that make wonderful additions to foods and marinades. Please find instructions below on how to make Herbal Vinegars, and what herbs go best with what types of Vinegars. Also be sure to check the link below for herbal combinations to try to get you started in the experience of making herbed vinegars at home. Herbed Vinegars Herbed vinegars can be used in any recipe that calls for vinegar. Choose the type of vinegar by the herbs you are using. Red and White Wine Vinegars and Rice Vinegars are the most often used, because of their smooth taste. White Vinegar is sharper, but is still a nice choice with some herbs. Cider Vinegar has a taste of it's own, so care has to be taken so that it doesn't overpower the herbs. A nice list of herb combinations for making herbed vinegars is linked below, so feel free to check it out for ideas about herbal combinations and what kinds of vinegars to use - but use this list only as a general guideline, and feel free to experiment with your favorite herbs on your own. In herbed vinegars, the proportion of herb to vinegar is an important consideration as far as taste, and if you have a favorite herb, please adjust the herb proportions accordingly. One thing about making herbed vinegars is that if you make a mistake and the taste is wrong, you haven't spent much money, and you still have a decorative addition to the kitchen. As a baseline for proportioning the herbs, use three or four 2 inch sprigs of fresh herb per cup of vinegar. If using dried herbs, use 1/4 cup of herb per cup of vinegar. If using garlic, hot peppers, or something similar, use 1 garlic clove or 1 pepper per cup of vinegar. Place the herbs in clean jars or decorative bottles. Gently heat the vinegar, but don't boil it. Let it cool down, then pour the warm Vinegar over the herbs in the jars. Place the jars in a dark place, such as a cabinet or shelf away from bright windows. The vinegars can be used in 3-4 weeks to up to a year later.

If you prefer to start out simply, you can make single-herb vinegars - below is a sampling of some herbs and the appropriate types of vinegar to try. This is not a complete list by any stretch, so do experiment on your own once you are comfortable with the basics. White Wine Vinegar goes well with Borage, Chive, Dill, Savory, Sage, Opal Basil, Lavender Sprigs or Flowers, Fennel, and Parsley, Rosemary, Tarragon, Thyme, Garlic or Onion Stems & Blossoms Red Wine Vinegar goes well with Basil, Garlic, Oregano, and Thyme. White Vinegar is complimented by Basil, Rosemary, Tarragon, and Dill. Cider Vinegar is enhanced by Lovage, Orange Peel Spirals, Raspberries, and Lavender Blossoms. Rice Vinegar goes well with Parsley, Dill, Savory, Sage, Rosemary, Purple Basil, Tarragon, Thyme, and Garlic. Use these single combinations, or experiment with your own for poultry or seafood marinades, to sprinkle over tomatoes or cucumber dishes, in green salads, mixed with mayonnaise, in bean salads, soups, stews, fish sauces, and for potato salads.

Making Herbal Vinegar Enjoying summer herbs year-round is simpler than you may think, because they can easily be preserved in vinegars for salad dressings and marinades. Store the vinegar in decorative bottles that look great in your kitchen and make attractive gifts. While you can use your favorite herb or herb combinations, I like to use garlic and purple basil in white-wine vinegar for a tasty pink marinade and salad dressing. 1. With a wooden utensil, pack 1 to 2 cups of fresh clean, dry basil leaves and 3 garlic WHAT TO cloves into a sterile quart jar, HAVE HANDY: bruising the herbs in the process. ● favorite herbs ● vinegar (at least 5 To prevent contamination, don't allow any metal or water to come percent acidity) ●wide-mouth jars in contact with the ingredients. decorative bottles and corks 2. Fill the jar with vinegar that ●coffee filters or has been warmed (but not boiled) cheesecloth in the microwave. Use white-wine ● funnel (nonmetal) or cider vinegar for the best flavor; ●wooden spoon or sherry and balsamic vinegars are chopsticks too strong. For safe food preservation, the vinegar must have a 5 percent acidity level. Cover with plastic wrap and store for 2 to 4 weeks.

3. Discard herbs and strain vinegar through a coffee filter or cheesecloth into sterilized decorative bottles. Top with a cork and label. Many cooks add a sprig of herb for identification, but I avoid this for longer, safer storage.

Making Fragrant Herbal & Floral Potpourri When was the last time you had a potpourri mixture in your house? Not just any potpourri mixture - one that made you stop and savor the very air as you came in from a long day. One that drew comments from virtually every visitor to your home. One that lifted your spirits and made your house feel inviting and warm. These are the sensations you can get from having some REAL potpourri around the house - and the only way to get it is to jump head first into the wonderful world of herbal and floral scents! As you might guess, great potpourri starts with great ingredients. Ideally, you want a mixture of a lot of different scents and textures, which can include flowers, seeds, foliage, berries, citrus, bark, wood, roots, spices, pine cones, nuts, essential oils, or anything else botanical that you think will enhance the look or fragrance. Basically anything in your garden is fair game, as long as you find the look and scent pleasing. Correctly drying your potpourri ingredients is the most important factor in whether you have a truly magnificent mixture or a moldy mess, so take heed here. If you have a big enough garden and have plenty of herbs and flowers, it is perfectly acceptable to bunch them and hang upside down in a cool, dry place. In fact, this is really the ideal. However, most of us don't have that kind of volume in our gardens, and as such, screen drying is our best bet. Get some screen from an old window or purchase a roll for a couple of bucks from the neighborhood home center. Anchor it any way you can find that will keep the screen taut and off the ground. I use an old square board as a base, with four bricks on each side, then the screen, and four more bricks on top of the original four to hold the screen in place. In an emergency, I can pick the whole thing up and carry it indoors, though it is fairly heavy. Use your imagination! I use a shady spot on the south side of the house for drying. Whatever you use, it doesn't have to be fancy, but it does have to be mobile in case of wind or rain. Obviously, you can dry the ingredients indoors too, but I find that they dry faster outside. You can also simply dry on newspaper, but this is a far inferior way compared to screen drying, and the tiny bit of work it will take to make a drying screen will pay off handsomely. Either way, once arranged on the screen, disturb the ingredients often to make sure that they are completely dry. Once this is accomplished, transfer to a glass or ceramic container with a lid that fits tightly to store until you have enough dried materials to make the potpourri. Avoid metal or plastic containers if at all possible, as you want the scent to be pure and unadulterated. Gathering materials for potpourri should be an ongoing project. Whatever the season, always be on the lookout for interesting ingredients that might enhance the look or scent of the potpourri. See the link below for help in choosing materials for the type of potpourri you are striving to make.

Choosing Flowers: When choosing flowers for your mixture, get out early, just after the morning dew has evaporated, and choose new flowers that have just opened to insure that you get them when their essential oils are at their peak. Pull the petals off, discarding any imperfect individuals, and place on your screens as per the instructions above. Even if the flower is not known for its scent, it may be a nice addition to the look of the finished potpourri, so don't discount anything abjectly, unless it has a noticeably disagreeable smell. Choosing Foliage: As with flowers, foliage is best gathered in the morning. Cut whole stems and either hang in bunches or strip the leaves and dry on your screen. Obviously, choose leaves that are unblemished and discard any less than perfect individuals. Choosing seeds: It is tough to tell when seeds from the garden are dry, so if you want to use seeds in your potpourri, crush them first, and dry on a thin piece of paper on your screens or on newspaper. Also, look for seed in the fall after the growing season is over for ready-made dried seed that can be crushed and added to your potpourri as is. Choosing Bark: Pine bark and pine cones come to mind as truly aromatic sources of scent for any potpourri, but there are many other barks that can be used, including spruce, Douglas fir, cedar, or any other aromatic wood - think of Christmas trees! Then go out and find an aroma that suits your purposes. Choosing Citrus: Citrus is almost a given in any successful potpourri. Choose your scent orange, lemon, lime, etc. To prepare for potpourri, peel the fruit as closely as possible in strips. Take a spoon and scrape the pulp from the skin, then break the cleaned peel into small pieces and dry on your screen until brittle. Choosing Berries: Berries such as cranberries, holly berries, berries from plants such as Nandina add to the bulk of the mixture and look wonderful, especially in holiday potpourris. Berries take longer to dry, and a newspaper laid out in a dark, dry corner will suffice for them. Place in a single layer and turn often. Choosing Other Ingredients: Pine cones or cones from other conifer-type plants add bulk and look good in potpourris, so keep an eye out for these. Various types of nuts can also become valuable ingredients to add bulk and interest to the mixture. Once you have dried enough materials and your mixture is ready to go, you will need a fixative for your potpourri, which absorbs the aromatic oils and releases them slowly. The fixative is the key to successful potpourri. Good fixatives include Orris root and Musk, and these can be found at crafts stores and some health food stores. Add 1-2 tablespoons of fixative per quart of dried materials. Mix with a wooden spoon or by hand. Once done, store the entire mixture in a tightly covered jar or ceramic pot for six weeks to blend the fragrances before placing the potpourri out to scent your home. To enhance or rejuvenate the scent of finished potpourri, essential oils can be added at any time. Don't overdo - a drop or two will yield noticeable results, but more may be overpowering.

LIST OF INGREDIENTS FOR FRAGRANCE Allspice Angelica Root Anise Basil Leaves Bay Laurel Leaves Carnation Flowers Chamomile Flowers Cinnamon Cloves (Whole) Coriander Seeds Frankincense Gardenia Flowers

Ginger Hyacinth Hyssop Jasmine Lavender Lemon Balm Leaves Lemon Peel Lemongrass Leaves Lemon Verbena Lilac Lily of the Valley Marjoram

Mint Leaves Nutmeg Orange Peel Pine Needles & Cones Rose Petals & Hips Rosemary Sage Scented Geranium Sweet Pea Thyme Vanilla Violet

LIST OF INGREDIENTS FOR COLOR Baby's Breath Flowers Calendula Flowers Chamomile Flowers Delphinium Flowers Goldenrod Flowers Hydrangea Flowers Larkspur Flowers

Marigold Flowers Nasturtium Flowers Pansy Flowers Strawflowers Tansy Flowers Yarrow Flowers Zinnia Flowers

HERBS – COOKING CHART

B E E F

C H I C K E N

L A M B

P O R K

G A M E

F I S H

V E G E T A B L E S

S E A F O O D

Angelica Anise

X

X

X

X

Arugala Basil

P S O A T L A A T D O S E S

R I C E & P A S T A

S O U P S & S T E W S

X

X

X

X

E G G S

X

D E S T S A E S L A E S S R A T

G A R N I S H

A S I A N

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X X

X

X

X

X

Bay

X

L A T I N

I T C A A L J I U A A N M N E R

T H A I

X X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X X

X

Borage

X

X

Calendula

X

X

Caraway

X

X

Catnip

X

X

X

X

X X

X

X

X X

X

X

X X

X

X

X

Cayenne

X

X

Chamomile

X X

Chervil

X

X

X

X

Chicory

X

X

X

X

X

X

Chives

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

Coriander (Cilantro)

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

Dill Fennel

B F A R K U I I N T G

M A R I N A D E S

X X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X X

X

X

X

Garlic

B E E F

C H I C K E N

L A M B

P O R K

G A M E

F I S H

V E G E T A B L E S

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

S E A F O O D

P S O A T L A A T D O S E S

R I C E & P A S T A

S O U P S & S T E W S

X

X

X

X

E G G S

B F A R K U I I N T G

Horehound

X

Hyssop Lemon Balm

X

Lemon Grass

X X

X

X

X

X

X

X

Marjoram

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

Mint

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

Parsley

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

Rosemary

X

X

X

Sage

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

Thyme

X

X

X

X

X

X

X X

X

X X X

X

X

X

X

X X

Tansy

Violets

X

X

X

X

X X

X

X

X

X

Scented Geranium Tarragon

X X

T H A I

X

X X

X

I C T A A J L U I A N A M N E R

X

X

X

A S I A N

X X

X

X

X

X

G A R N I S H

L A T I N

X

Oregano

Savory

X

X

X

Lovage

D E S T S A E S L A E S S R A T

M A R I N A D E S

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X X

X

X

X

X X

X

X

X

X X

X

X

HERB HARVESTING CHART Late Spring Chervil Couch grass

leaves rhizomes

Ground ivy Violet

Wood avens leaves flowers, leaves Woodruff

leaves, stems flowers leaves leaves

Lemon balm Lovage Mug wort Parsley

leaves leaves leaves leaves

Rose Rue Southernwood Tarragon

petals leaves leaves leaves

leaves, tops leaves leaves leaves, flowers whole herb leaves, flowers flowers leaves leaves, flowers leaves, tops leaves stems

Horehound Horsetail Hyssop Lady's bedstraw Lime Marigold Marjoram Marsh mallow Meadowsweet Melilot Mint Mullein

leaves whole herb leaves, tops whole herb flowers & bracts flowers leaves, tops root leaves, tops leaves, tops leaves leaves, tops

Nasturtium Rosemary Safflower Sage St John's wort Stinging nettle Tansy Thyme Vervain Weld Woad

fruits leaves flowers leaves leaves, tops whole herb leaves leaves leaves, tops whole herb leaves

seeds leaves, tops seeds berries seeds

Golden rod Hops Juniper Lavender Lemon verbena

leaves, tops female flowers berries flowers leaves

Mustard Onions Poppy Sweet cicely

seeds bulbs seeds seeds

root seeds seeds seeds root seeds

Elecampane Fennel Gentian Liquorice Lovage Orris

root seeds, stalks root root seeds rhizome

Rose Saffron Savory Soap wort Sunflower

fruit (hips) stigmas leaves root seeds

root root

Chicory Horseradish

root root

Solomon's seal Valerian

root root

root leaves

Early Summer Angelica Clove carnation Coriander Goosegrass

Midsummer Agrimony American senna Basil Bergamot Betony Borage Camomile Costmary Elder Eyebright Feverfew Flax

Late Summer Anise Boneset Caraway Elder Flax

Early Autumn Bistort Celery Coriander Cumin Dandelion Dill

Late Autumn Angelica Burdock

Preserving Herbs How to preserve herbs to ensure enjoyment of them long after harvest. Properly preserving your herbs will ensure enjoyment of them long after harvest. The most popular method of preserving herbs is to dry them. However, many people enjoy freezing or preserving the flavor of their favorite herbs in vinegar. You will enjoy trying the different methods and selecting the one which work best for you and your herbs. Herbs are picked as needed for fresh use. For maximum oil and flavor, pick early in the morning just after the dew dries off the upper leaves. As the day becomes hot, flavor is decreased. For preserving, pick when leaves have maximum oil content, usually just before the plant comes into flower. When harvesting to use the seed, pick head when mature but before seed pods shatter. 1. Drying: There are several ways you can use this time-honored method of preserving your herbs. Dried herbs have a much stronger flavor than fresh herbs due to oils being much more concentrated. When recipes call for fresh herbs, you can substitute with dried herbs, but at half the recommended rate. 2. Hang Drying: This old method is still the most practiced way of drying the harvest. Tie the different herbs you have harvested into bunches and hang upside down in a warm, dry place away from direct sunlight. Hang them where air can circulate all around to prevent mildew. If the room or drying area is dusty, place the bunch in a paper bag that has been perforated all around for air circulation. Tie the bag around the stems. This is a good method for drying seed heads, for as the seeds fall they are caught in the bottom of the bag. Depending on the weather, herbs usually take about two weeks to hang dry. They should be crisp and crackly to the touch. Store in labeled jars or bags that are air tight and kept out of direct light. Herbs to be used in cooking should be dried as whole as possible to retain flavor. 3. Quick Drying: This method allows you to dry and preserve your herbs in a short period of time. Simply spread the herb leaves on a cheesecloth-covered rack in the oven at its lowest temperature. Leave the oven door open and stir the leaves until they are crisp. Once they are crisp to the touch, they are ready for storing in an airtight container. 4. Tray Drying: For small quantities of herbs or short pieces of stems and seed heads, drying trays are handy. A simple rectangular frame constructed of 1-by 2-inch lumber with screen mesh or cheesecloth stapled to the bottom works well. Construct the frame so several trays can be stacked. If you choose this stacking method, be sure to leave at least one inch between each tray for good air circulation. It is best to dry the herbs in single layers. Bunching or clustering the leaves can cause mildew. You can either dry the leaves on the stems or strip them off. Stir or turn the herbs every few days to ensure even drying. Most herbs dry crisp in seven to 10 days, depending upon the weather. Drying trays are also a good way to dry seed heads. These trays can be placed outdoors or inside. If outside, keep in a shaded area. 5. Drying Seed: To dry seed such as dill, caraway, anise, etc., pick the seed heads when

mature but still green. If you wait for the seed to turn brown on the plant, many seeds will be lost when you pick them. Prepare bundles of seed heads as for regular hang drying, only enclose them in a paper bag so that, if jarred, the seeds will fall into the bag. Wait until the leaves are thoroughly dry before placing them in storage. 6. Decorative Drying: To retain the hue and shape of herb flowers or foliage for decorative purposes, try burying them in a drying medium. The hue alone can be retained by drying in the dark, but to retain the shape they must be covered by the drying medium. The resulting colorful and crisp herbs can be made into long-lasting bouquets. Several different desiccants can be used for decorative drying: borax powder, dry fine-grained sand such as builders' sand, equal parts cornmeal and borax or crushed silica gel crystals. Prepare the freshly picked herb flowers for drying by sticking florists' wire through the center of the flower head. The wire will add support to the stem and make it easier to work with. Using a wide-mouthed container, pour in about 3 inches of any of the above-mentioned drying media. Place the flower or herb sprig upright on top of the 3 inches of desiccants. Hold it in place while slowly pouring more desiccant all around. Be sure to work the material down in between every petal and leaf to prevent mildew. Add as many flowers or sprigs as you wish, but they must not touch each other. If you are using a deep container, several layers of flowers or foliage can be dried at a time. Be sure that the top layer of flowers and foliage has 2 inches of desiccant above it so no outside moisture can damage the herbs. Most herbs take two to three days to dry except in sand, where they can take as long as three weeks. Test for readiness by carefully removing a flower or leaf from the drying container. It should feel crisp when adequately dried. When you feel your herbs and flowers have reached this point, carefully and gently shake or brush off all the desiccant. To make stems longer, add any desired length of florists' wire and wrap with floral tape. This will add support to your dried herbs and flowers and will make them easier to arrange. You can improve the length of time such plants retain their color by keeping them out of bright direct light. 7. Glycerin Drying: Another way to dry your herbs and flowers for decorative purposes is with glycerin. Glycerin will darken the natural color of most plants, but will keep the stems and leaves soft and retain the fragrance. Herbs treated this way cannot be consumed. A mixture of one part glycerin to two parts very hot water is recommended for this drying procedure. Mix the two thoroughly together, then bring just to the boiling point. Pour enough of this hot glycerin mixture into a container which will cover the bottom 2 inches of the stems of the herbs you are drying. The plants you are drying should have the bottom of their stems freshly cut. This will ensure adequate absorption of the hot glycerin mixture. It normally takes two to three weeks for this drying process to be completed. You will probably need to add more glycerin solution the first few days to keep 2 inches of stem covered. If you want to vary the naturally dark brown color that results from the glycerin process, add one fluid ounce of food coloring per three cups of glycerin solution. The color resulting depends on how long you leave the herb in the mixture. Do not use glycerin-treated herbs in cooking or any other consumption. 8. Freezing: This method of preserving herbs is recommended for a few of the tender herbs, including basil, burnet, fennel, tarragon, chives, dill and parsley. Simply tie a small bundle of

the herb together and dip it into boiling water for a few seconds. Cool immediately by plunging into ice water for a couple of minutes. Remove leaves from the stems and put into plastic bags, label and freeze. It is not necessary to blanch basil, chives and dill in boiling water. Frozen herb flavors almost match fresh herb quality. Another method is to place small amounts of the herb in ice cube trays, cover with water and freeze. When frozen, remove from trays and store in plastic bags in the freezer. Herbs frozen in this manner will keep for at least six months but are not suitable for use as garnish. Chop frozen herbs as soon as they come out of the freezer. Label and date the container so you know what herbs you have. 9. Vinegar Preservation: By adding herbs to vinegar, you can give extra flavor to any dish that normally calls for vinegar in the recipe. You can use either fresh or dried herbs in this type of preserving method. The recommended formula calls for either half a cup of freshly crushed or bruised leaves of the herb of your choice or one tablespoon if the herb is dried to two cups of white, cider or wine vinegar. Three basic methods in preparing herbal vinegars are as follows: Heated Vinegar - Fill plastic gallon jug approximately one-half full with fresh herbs. Then pour hot (not boiling) vinegar over herbs and fill gallon container with vinegar. Store in dark area and mix contents daily for four to six weeks. Strain and add several sprigs of herbs. This is often the preferred method, since it tends to draw out more flavor from the herb. Cold Method - Add the herbs, etc. to cold vinegar. Let stand four to six weeks. Strain; add new herbs. Solar Method - Add herbs to vinegar. Place outside in sunshine. Strain in four weeks. Add fresh herbs. This method can present problems with insects and flies. Storage: Store in dark, cool area (pantry) in glass jar sealed with non-metallic closures, i.e. corks. If corks are used, dip in hot paraffin several times to assure proper seal. Metallic lids can be used by placing wax paper over the opening and screwing the lid on over the wax paper. 10. Sachets: Another way to capture the fragrance of your herbs to scent clothing, woolen blankets, bedclothes or even to freshen the air is through sachets. Dried herbs tied in a piece of silk are the easiest types of sachet to make. Some of the best herbs to use for sachets are rosemary, lemon balm, mint, summer savory, chamomile, thyme, lavender, marjoram, basil and the seeds of coriander, fennel and dill. Choose your favorite combination of these or add dried rose petals, rose leaves or cloves to selected herbs.

Tips for Drying and Freezing Herbs The best time to dry herbs is just before they bloom when they are at the peak of their flavor. It is important to do your cutting in late morning after the dew is off, but before the hot sun draws out the delicate flavors and aromas. The simplest drying method is to hang your herbs in a dry, well-ventilated area out of direct sunlight. Barns, garages, attics, and sheds are good places; basements are usually too damp for drying. Create a drying zone by stringing up some wire or by putting nails in ceiling joists or rafters. If ventilation is a problem, use a small fan to move the air. Avoid direct sunlight as it causes plants to change color and dry too quickly. If necessary, cover windows with curtains. Gather your herbs in small bunches (the size will vary depending on the leafiness of the product) and wrap the stems with a small rubber band. A half-opened paper clip is the ideal hook for hanging the bunch. Drying time will depend on humidity, temperature, and the item you are drying. Most herbs will be ready in 10-14 days; they are done if a leaf rubbed between your fingers crumbles easily. Store dried herbs in sealed jars or plastic bags in cool, dark place. If moisture appears in the jar or bag, it is a sign that the herb is not completely dry. Avoid crushing the leaves until you are ready to use them; crushed herbs lose their flavor more quickly. Drying herbs in a microwave is quick, simple, and gives excellent results. Place two layers of paper towel in the bottom of the microwave, add a layer of herbs, and cover with two more layers of paper towel. Run the microwave on high for two minutes, then check your herbs for dryness. If they are not done, move the herbs around, run the microwave for 30-60 seconds and check again. Repeat the process until the herbs are dry. WARNING: This process requires careful attention. The paper towels in the microwave can catch fire if hot spots occur. This is a good method for preserving parsley. Dehydrators are good for drying herbs. Drying time will vary depending on humidity so don’t expect quick results in wet weather or if you have your dehydrator in a damp basement. Follow instructions for your dehydrator regarding temperature settings. Some herbs freeze well, including tarragon, chives, dill, fennel, and lovage. Simply strip off stems and freeze leaves in zip-lock freezer bags. Basil can be pureed in a food processor or blender with a small amount of olive oil, then frozen in ice cube trays; freeze the basil cubes in zip-lock freezer bags.

Preparing the Garden For Winter A significant complaint of herb gardeners is that herbs grow too much! What to do with the masses of mint, oregano, basil, dill and so many other herbs that can become huge in the course of one season? Its time to think about harvesting and storing all of these herbs for the winter. There is a major rule of thumb when it comes to the preservation of herbs. Annuals, such as basil and Cilantro, do not dry very well. This is because they tend to have light, volatile essential oils that evaporate easily during drying. Perennials, such as sage and oregano, have heavy oils that are not easily released during drying, therefore they hold their flavor well. As a consequence, it is best to freeze annual herbs and dry perennials to preserve the maximum flavor for off-season cooking. With this in mind, it is off to the garden to start cutting. Herbs that are to be frozen must be cleaned before they are cut. Dirt and any little insects can be gently washed away with a hose or spray bottle. Water droplets on the leaves cause browning in the freezer, so let the sun and wind dry the plant off before cutting. Immediately after harvesting, place the herbs into zip lock bags and squeeze the air out, then place into the freezer (labeled!). Alternatively the herbs can be chopped up and spread into ice cube trays, with a little bit of water added to keep things together. After the cubes are completely frozen, they can be placed into freezer bags and are easily added to sauces and soups in preformed 'doses'. Another popular idea is to turn basil into pesto before freezing it in ice cube trays. Annual herbs (especially basils) loose much of the flavor in their leaves when they go to seed, so flowers should be removed as soon as they appear and harvesting complete before the plant blooms. Herb drying is a little more involved than freezing. The goal is to have herbs dry slowly but surely. Devices that speed up drying, such as the microwave, the oven, or dehydrator will compromise the herb's flavor. Before cutting herbs to dry, they can be cleaned on the stem in the same fashion as before freezing. Once again, allow time for moisture on the leaves to dry off before harvesting. Perennial herbs often have the strongest concentration of oils when they are in flower. This is true of mints, rosemary, and oreganos and also of many medicinal herbs such as feverfew and St. John's Wort. Be sure to include the flowering tops of these varieties when harvesting. Large bunches can be cut and tied together at the base with string. Ideally herbs should be hung in bunches in a warm, dry area with very good air circulation. The low even heat above the refrigerator also makes for ideal drying conditions, particularly for small amounts of leaf that can be laid out on a cookie sheet to dry. Drying takes from one to two weeks, depending on weather conditions and air circulation. Once dry, herbs should be stored in air tight containers out of direct sunlight. The typical kitchen spice rack is among the worst places to store dried herbs, since sunlight streaming into the kitchen breaks down essential oils. To maximize flavour, herbs can be left dried on the stem until the moment they are added to a recipe. Just one last hint; while it is best to add fresh and frozen herbs towards the end of cooking, dried herbs are usually added early in the cooking process.

MOVING THE GARDEN INDOORS The gourmet in all of us knows that while frozen or dried herbs are useful, nothing beats the flavor of fresh. The challenge is in trying to keep an indoor herb garden through the winter. The key to a successful indoor herb garden lies in choosing the best varieties for the situation. Hardy outdoor perennials have adapted to our climate by sending their energy deep into the roots and going completely dormant for the winter. Cold weather and low light levels trigger this process, and it is very confusing for hardy perennials to be brought inside in the fall, a time when they would normally be going to sleep. Echinacea, Ginseng, Bergamot and French Tarragon are just of few of the herbs that refuse to do well indoors over winter because of dormancy. Even under grow lights these varieties tend not to thrive year round. A common mistake is attempting to bring summer annuals in for the winter. An annual plant grows for one season, flowers, sets seed and then dies. This means that despite being rescued from the cold and brought indoors in the fall, it has completed its life cycle and can not continue to grow. Starting fresh is a step in the right direction, but even newly seeded annuals struggle on the windowsill during fall and winter, since the have high light requirements. The only way to deal with low winter light levels is by using a fluorescent light suspended close above the indoor herb patch. This is not expensive: no fancy grow lights are required, just a regular fluorescent fixture and cool white bulbs. Although the lights must be left on 16-18 hours a day to achieve vigorous plant growth, they comusume very little electricity and the fixture lasts for many years. The best candidates for an indoor herb garden are those that are evergreen in warm climates. These are called tender perennials. Under lights these herbs will be very productive at any time of the year. Near a bright window they grow slowly but happily through the winter. Although it may be frustrating to know that Basil will not easily grow through the winter, it is exciting to see the selection of often interesting and exotic plants that are good 'house herbs'! (see chart of top picks for indoor herb gardens) Forced air heating and arid winter air are deadly for indoor plants of all types. A cool but sunny location away from direct heat sources will provide the ideal winter environment for most tender perennial herbs. A basement or attic window, or perhaps a cool sun room (that gets cold, but not below freezing) are perfect. Winter herbs grow slowly, so they require only modest watering - usually one or twice good watering s per week depending on the herb and amount of sun. Most herbs will appreciate a balanced fertilizer once per month during fall and winter. Herbs under grow lights often require daily watering and biweekly fertilizing, since they remain in active growth through the winter. One of the wonderful things about herbs is that the more they are pinched off and harvested, the more they grow and become bushy. Even at times when they are not being used regularly they will appreciate having the tips of the stems cut off, to encourage bushy growth. Hopefully by choosing the best plants and location for indoors, adding a small grow light and doing a little regular pruning we can all enjoy herbs year rounds. There is one final bit of (rather drastic) advice. If all else is failing, most herbs can be cut completely back to the base and recover bigger, happier and better for it! This is a scary move, but is does give the plant a chance to rest and stimulates healthy regrowth.

RECOMMENDED HERBS FOR INDOORS: Aloe Vera Bay Laurel Cardamom Mexican Coriander Curry Plant Scented Geraniums Gotu Kola Jasmines Fringed Lavender Grey Form Lavender

Goodwin Creek Lavender Lambikins Lavender Lemon Grass Greek Marjoram Australian Mint Bush Cuban Oregano Italian Oregano Passion Flowers Rosemary Fruit Sage

Pineapple Sage Peruvian Sage White Sage Winter Savory Mexican Marigold Wegdewood Thyme Lemon Thyme Jamaican Thyme Vanilla Orchid

Growing Garlic In the garden, garlic makes a wonderful companion crop and tends to repel most bugs. Planted among members of the cabbage family, it helps repel imported cabbageworm. Many gardeners have also found using sprays made from garlic to be very effective in helping to control plant diseases such as powdery mildew, bean anthracnose, and brown rot in almonds, apricots and peaches. Garden Preparation Garlic prefers well-drained, moderately-fertile soil in a sunny spot of the garden. Raised beds are ideal so that water drains quickly and the soil warms earlier in the springtime. If the soil is too fertile, you will end up with lush leaf growth and smaller bulbs. Before planting, loosen the soil with a rake or hoe. You may want to amend the soil with a root crop fertilizer that is high in phosphorus (the middle number) like bone meal or rock phosphate. Planting Just before planting, break apart each bulb of garlic into its individual cloves, trying to keep as much skin on the cloves as possible. Next, simply poke your finger into the soil until about your third knuckle (2 inches), drop the clove in pointy side up, cover the hole, and pat firmly. Space the next garlic 5 inches further down the row. Each row of garlic should be about 15-18 inches apart. After planting, water the buried cloves well. To form cloves, garlic must be exposed to temperatures below 41 F (5 C). Thus, if planted too late in the spring, garlic will tend to form large onion-like bulbs instead of individual cloves. In the North, garlic is normally planted in October so that it can establish roots before winter and really take of in the spring. Southern gardeners can only plant garlic if they know the temperature will dip low enough. Often, they can wait until November or December to plant. Growing & Harvesting In springtime, the green tips will start to emerge and the garlic should be side-dressed with fertilizer again by placing the fertilizer 2 inches away from the row and lightly scratching it into the soil. During the growing season, keep garlic keep a mulch of grass clippings or similar material around the garlic to help conserve water and suppress weeds.

When the tops turn yellow in early summer, stop watering. Allow the bulbs to cure in the soil for 2 weeks and then harvest the garlic by pulling the whole plant out of the soil and tying the leaves together. Allow the bulbs to dry on a rack in a warm, dry spot. Garlic types Silverskin - This type of garlic is the one most often seen in grocery stores. As the name implies, the skins are silvery-white and the taste is mild & garlicky. Silverskin garlic, often referred to as soft-neck garlic, stores incredibly well and is the type used for making garlic braids. Rocambole - Also known as serpent garlic, rocambole is classified as a hard-neck. During the growing season, this type of garlic will form flower heads which need to be cut off so they do not drain the resources of the bulb. Most rocambole-types have a very pungent, almost hot flavour and are often identified by the purplish tinge to their skin. Although this is a much more gourmet garlic, it does not store well, usually just a couple of months. Elephant - The cloves of this garlic can weigh an ounce and will usually give up to 3 tablespoons of chopped garlic. Elephant garlic is actually a member of the leek family and thus, has a much milder taste. If your growing conditions are cool & damp, this is the garlic to choose. The bulbs of elephant garlic should be spaced farther apart, usually 10 inches, to give the plants enough room to grow.

Common Fungal Diseases •Botrytis, an airborne and waterborne disease, is a gray fuzzy mold on the stems and leaves that causes the plant stems to cave in on themselves. •Damping off kills young seedlings by rotting them at the soil line. This fungus is transmitted through air and soil. •Downy mildew is an airborne disease, and shows up as white to purple fuzz, turning black, on the undersides of the leaves and stems. It usually kills the plant quickly. •Powdery mildew is a white to grayish fuzz on the leaves, shoots, and other aerial parts of the plant It is airborne and causes poor growth and lower yields, but does not kill the plant. •Rust is both airborne and waterborne, and shows up as orange and white spots on the leaves and stems. The plants become weak and yield is reduced, but they won't necessarily die. •Fusarium wilt is a soil-borne fungus that causes brown streaks up the stems, the top of the plant to wilt over like a shepherds crook, and the lower leaves to yellow and die. Has become an especially marked problem for basil plants in recent years.

► baking soda spray This treatment can be helpful in controlling powdery mildew. Castile soup and the Ivory brand are good choices tor the dishwashing liquid, hut almost any kind will work providing it is unscented ami doesn't contain degreasing agents. You'll get 2 or 3 treatments from this recipe. 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 quart warm water 1 teaspoon dishwashing liquid Dissolve baking soda in warm water. Add dish-washing liquid. Mix well and pour into a spray bottle. To use, spray plant thoroughly, especially the undersides of the leaves. Space treatments 3 to 5 days apart. ► horsetail spray This is a natural fungicide that is effective on powdery mildew, botrytis, leaf spot, and other fungal diseases. Success with this spray varies, so you'll need to experiment a bit to see which plants and diseases it will be most effective on in your area. ¼ cup dried horsetail 1 gallon water In a large pot, combine the horsetail and water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer gently for 20-30 minutes. Remote from heat; strain. To use, combine ¼ cup horsetail brew and 1 ½ cups water in a spray bottle. Spray on affected plants. Repeat application every I -2 weeks if sympurnxs persist.

Active Plant Constituents Herbs and spices arc rich in volatile oils which give pleasurable aromas. In addition, herbs may contain alkaloids and glycosides. which are of greater interest to pharmacologists. Some of the main active constituents in herbs are as follows: Acids - these are sour, often antiseptic and cleansing. Alkaloids - these are bitter, often based on alkaline nitrogenous compounds. They affect the central nervous system and many are very toxic and ddictive. Anthraquinones - these are bitter, irritant and laxative, acting also as dyes. Bitters - various compounds, mainly iridoides and sesquiterpenes with a bitter taste that increases and improves digestion. Coumarines - are antibacterial, anticoagulant, with a smell of new-mown hay. Flavones - these are bitter or sweet, often diuretic, antiseptic, antispusmodic and antiinflammatory. Typically yellow, and present in most plants. Glycosides - there are lour main kinds ot glycosides: cardiac: affecting heart contractions; synogenic: bitter, antispasmodic sedative, affecting heart rate and respiration; mustard oil: acrid, extremely irritant; sulphur: acrid, stimulant, antibiotic. Gums and mucilages - these are bland, sticky or slimy, soothing and soliciting. Resins - often found as oleo-resins or oleo gum resins - they are acrid, astringent, antiseptic, healing. Saponins - are sweet, stimulant hormonal, often anti-inflammalory. or diuretic, soapy in water. Tannins - are astringent, often antiseptic, checking bleeding and discharges. Volatile oils - are aromatic, antiseptic, fungicidal. irritant and stimulant.

North American Plant Hardiness Zones