The Unofficial Guide to Washington, D.C. (Unofficial Guides)

For Travelers

Who Want More Than

the Official Line!

Unofficial

GuidCo Washington,

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Washington, D.C. 8th Edition

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WILEY

To D.

—

You're not getting older, you're just getting updated!

Please note that prices fluctuate in the course of time,

under the impact of many factors that influence the that

you write or

has been

made

and

travel

travel industry.

ahead for confirmation when making your

call

to ensure the accuracy of information

—

£. Z.

information changes

We

therefore suggest

travel plans.

throughout

this

Every effort

book, and the con-

tents of this publication are believed correct at the time of printing. Nevertheless, the lishers this

cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or for changes in

guide or for the consequences of any reliance on the information provided by the

same. Assessments of attractions and so forth are based upon the author's

and

pub-

details given in

therefore, descriptions given in this guide necessarily contain

may

opinion, which

not

reflect the publisher's

on another occasion. Readers

own

opinion or dictate a reader's

are invited to write the publisher

experience,

an element of subjective

own

experience

with ideas, comments, and

suggestions for future editions.

Published by:

&

John Wiley 1 1 1

Sons, Inc.

River Street

Hoboken, NJ 07030 Copyright

© 2005 by Robert W. Sehlinger and Joe Surkiewicz. All rights reserved. No part of

this publication

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may

its

books

ISBN 0-7645-7557-0 Manufactured 5

4

3

2

in the 1

in a variety

of electronic formats.

not be available in electronic formats.

United States of America

Some

Contents

of Maps

List

x

About the Authors and Contributor

Introduction

I

Washington without the Hassle

About This Guide

How Come

2

"Unofficial"^.

Creating a Guidebook

How

1

2

3

Unofficial Guides Art Different

Special Features

How This Letters,

3

4

Guide Was Researched and Written

Comments, and Questions from Readers

How Information

Is

6

One Planning Your Visit to Washington

When

to

Go 29 When the Weather

Going

Avoiding Crowds

Is

Good

29

30

Trying to Reason with the Tourist Season Getting to Washington

Driving

Flying

33

34

Taking the Train

5

Organized:

By Subject and by Geographic Zones

Part

5

37

38

A Calendar of Festivals and Events

32-37

30

29

1

vi

11

Contents

Accommodations

PartTwo

Deciding Where to Stay

Some

Considerations

Getting a

Good Deal on

Where

4

41 41 a

Room

42 43

the Hotel Discounts Are

Helping Your Travel Agent Help You

Make Your

If You

How to

Own

48

Evaluate a Travel Package

49

Tips for Business Travelers

Lodging Convenient

Convention Rates:

46 47

Reservation

Washington Convention Center

to

How They Work and How to Do

Accommodations: Rated and Ranked What's in a Room?

5

Compare

Deals and Bad Deals

Not

All Visitors

A Convention

56

66

68-81

Accommodations Information Chart

PartThree Visiting

52

55

Ratings

How the Accommodations Good

49

5

Hotel and Motel Toll-free Numbers

Room

49

Better

Washington on Business Are Headed

for the

Mall

83

83

88-89

Center Calendar

The Washington Convention Center

90

Lodging within Walking Distance of the Convention Center

90

Parking at the Convention Center 9

Cabs and Shuttles

Lunch

Part Four

to the the

Alternatives for

Convention Center 91

Convention and Trade Show Attendees 91

Arriving and Getting Oriented

Coming

into the City

By Car

93

93

By Plane

94

By Train

99

A Geographic Overview of Washington City and

Two

States

D.C.'s Street Plan

Finding Your

Way

1

100 101

Things the Natives Already

The Metro: An Taxis Traffic

00

Know

Introduction

103 103

The Neighborhoods

104

1

02

102

100

93

Contents Customs and Protocol

1

The

108

Local Press

Telephones

109

Rooms

Rest

109

How to Avoid Crime and Crime

in

Having

a Plan

114

Self-defense

114

Carjackings

1 1

More Things

to

May Be

Safe in Public Places

1 1

1 1

Ripoffs and Scams

1 1

Avoid

Closer

The Homeless

Part Five

Keep

Washington

Personal Attitude

Help

06

108

Tips for the Disabled

115

Than You Think

1 1

116

Getting around Washington

Driving Your Car: Traffic

Hot

Parking

A Really Bad Idea

Spots

I

1

1 1

119

121

A Really Good Idea 121 A Clean, Safe Alternative 2 How to Ride the Metro 22 Metro Foibles and How to Cope 129

Riding the Metro:

1

1

Discounts and Special Deals

A Note about Metrobus Taxis

132

People with Special Needs

Part Six

131

132

133

Sight-seeing Tips and Tours

Plan before You Leave

Thinking

Home

137 138

in Categories

Putting Your Congressperson to

Operating Hours

Work

42

1

143

Rhythms of the City If You Visit

137

144

During Peak Tourist Season

Intragroup Touring Incompatibility:

What

It Is

and

How to Avoid It

Washington with Children

146

Washington's Top 20 Tours

1

Taking an Orientation Tour

52 155

Other Commercial Guided Tours

1

58

145

145

110

vii

1

viii

Contents

Part Six

Sight-seeingTips and Tours

Optimum Adult Touring The Red Line Tour

1

59

163

Touring Strategies Attractions

Plan

(continued)

63

1

Grouped by Metro

163

Station

Seeing Washington on a Tight Schedule

One-Day Touring 170

Helpflil Hints

A Worst-case Touring Scenario

1

70

171

Travel Tips for Tourists

Washington's Attractions

Where

to

Go

The National Mall

86

1

Zone

2:

Capitol Hill

Zone

3:

Downtow^n

Zone

4:

Foggy Bottom

Zone

5:

Georgetown

Zone

6:

Dupont Circle/Adams-Morgan

Zone

7:

Upper Northwest

Zone

8:

Northeast

241

Zone

9:

Southeast

244

Zone

10:

Zone

11: Virginia

1

214 222 227 229

247

Maryland Suburbs Suburbs

230

237

250

253

Dining and Restaurants

Experiencing Washington Cuisine

The New Washington Cookery

253 253

258

Places to See Faces

The New Downtown Dining

260

The Restaurants 26 Our Favorite Washington Restaurants More Recommendations 269

Shopp in g

Mall Shopping

in

Flea Markets

Washington

335

335

Suburban Malls Malls in D.C.

261

274-334

Restaurant Profiles

Part Nine

79

179

Time-saving Charts

Part Eight

1

179

Zone

:

66

168

Excursions beyond the Beltway

Part Seven

1

166

335

337 337

Great Neighborhoods for Window-shopping

338

Contents Georgetown

338

Adams-Morgan and

U Street

339

Dupont Circle 341 Chevy Chase 342 342

Bethesda

343

Capitol Hill

Old Town Alexandria

343

343

Specialty Shops

PanTen Entertainment and Nightlife Washington

Nightlife:

More Than

Washington

in

Swing Your Partner

Espresso and Eight-ball

Part Eleven

367

367

The Sex Thing Profiles

36

365

367

Ashes to Ashes

More on

368

the Safety Thing

370

of Clubs and Nightspots

372-387

Exercise and Recreation

Working Out

389

389

Walking

389

Running

390

Swimming

393

Free Weights and Elliptical Trainers

and Aerobics

Fitness Centers

393

393

394

Tennis

Recreational Sports: Biking, Hiking, Kayaking, and So

394

Bicycling

Hiking

399

Boat Rides Skiing

400

400

Horseback Riding

Golf

401

401 401

Spectator Sports

A ppendixes

353

360

Live Pop, Rock, and Jazz

True Brews

353

Monuments

355

Legitimate Theater

Comedy

Lit-up

405

Accommodations Index Restaurant Index Subject Index

Reader Survey

408

411

419-420

405

On

394

ix

1

of Maps

List

Metro

Inside cover

8-9

Washington, D.C., Touring Zones

The National Mall

10-11

Zone

1

Zone

2:

Capitol Hill

Zone

3:

Downtown

Zone

4:

Foggy Bottom

Zone

5:

Georgetown

Zone

6:

Dupont Circle/Adams-Morgan

Zone

7:

Upper Northwest

Zone

8:

Northeast

22

Zone

9:

Southeast

23

Zone

10:

Maryland Suburbs

Zone

1 1

Virginia Suburbs

:

:

12-13 14-15 16

17

18-19

20-21

24-25

26-27

Washington Convention Center

84-87

Washington, D.C., and Vicinity

95

Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport Washington-Dulles International Airport

Baltimore-Washington International Airport

Washington Old Town Trolley Capitol Hill

1

96

97 98

56

215

C&O Canal Towpath Trail Mount Vernon Trail

39

392

Washington and Old Dominion Railroad Regional Park Covered Bridge Bicycle Tour

397

Sugar Loaf Mountain Bicycle Tour

398

395

About the Authors and Contributor

Joe Surkiewicz has co-authored five titles in the Unofficial Guides series and written two guides to the best places to ride a mountain bike in the Mid-Atlantic

states.

Bureau of Maryland. selor,

is

up on the

Molly and

Kay

in Baltimore

Norma

Shearer,

The Unofficial Guide

"Weekend"

and Miriam Hopkins.

to

77?^ Unofficial

is

a feature writer

and restaurant

section of the Washington Post; she

also

when

Guide

to

New

Walt Disney Worldfor Grown-ups, and The critic for

drew on her intimate

knowledge of D.C.'s diverse after-hours scene and the dining spots

companions,

watch black-and-white movies starring 1930s fdm

Ethnic Food Lover's Companion, the

Aid

not traveling or bicycling, they enjoy evenings

Eve Zibart, author of several books including Orleans,

at the Legal

with his best friend and coun-

sofa with their black-and-white feline

Trixie, to

Francis,

communications director

He lives

Ann Lembo. When

curled

divas

Joe

area's vast

array of

writing our entertainment and restaurant sections. Eve

scoped out where to find the best deals for our chapter on shopping.

A native of the Baltimore suburbs, Alisa Bralove

is

a legal affairs writer for

Maryland's business and legal daily newspaper. The Daily Record. She and her husband. Rich Scherr, ally inspected

live in

more than 140

Owings

hotels

Mills,

and inns

Maryland. Alisa person-

for

our accommodations

chapter.

XI

Introduction

Washington without the Hassle Before

we begin rhapsodizing about

the joys of visiting Washington,

D.C., we have a small confession to make: Sometimes itors in It's

we

hate being vis-

D.C.

not that

we

are

immune

to the spell of this beautiful city

on the

Potomac. We've done our share of gaping in patriotic awe from the top of the Washington

Monument and

histrionics of long-winded

have witnessed in utter fascination the

United States senators ramrodding a pork bar-

project through Congress. For us, as for others, the locus of govern-

rel

ment

is

intoxicating.

We

thrive

polarity of powerful people

one of the most exciting

Where

else

on the constant tension

and

cities

on

ideas.

arising

from the

Washington, unquestionably,

is

the planet.

but in Washington can you watch fire-and-brimstone

politicians debate the rights of

men and women on

the floor of the U.S.

Senate or marvel at the eloquence of barristers arguing a case before the

Supreme Court

—

or discover, perhaps,

how

eavesdropping on a couple of veteran lobbyists

politics

really

works by

they plot strategy over

as

dry martinis in a hip Georgetown pub?

Then, of course, there the

city.

is

the beauty, the magnificence, the majesty of

America's capital city boasts

ments ever

some of the most stunning monumuseums and lush, verdant

created, as well as world-class

parks. Broad, shaded boulevards, meticulously laid out

L'Enfant, radiate like spokes from the heart of the stately plazas, ornate bridges,

Our problem with D.C. Washingtonian

and breathtaking very simple:

—

the sweltering

street plan, the

punctuated by

sculpture.

We cannot stand the peculiarly

hassles that routinely get in the

extraordinary city

Goldberg

is

by Pierre-Charles

city,

summer

way of enjoying this Rube

heat and humidity, the

agonizing lack of legal parking, the elbow-to-

elbow crowds that can wipe out your high

spirits

before lunch.

Introduction

2

In response, we've

become absolute

fanatics

when

it

comes

to

warning

away from Washington's worst torments. Here's the short Hst: long lines that never seem to move, lousy food (when D.C. boasts some of the finest restaurants on earth!), industrial-strength traffic

Washington

visitors

jams, outrageous prices for mediocre hotel rooms, bored tour guides that

herd tourists

sheep

like

.

.

.

We do get quite grumpy when It

doesn't have to be

This book

is

way

this

things go amiss

on

a

Washington

visit.

for you.

the reason why.

Its

primary purpose can be expressed

in exactly ten words: We're going to take the misery out of touring

Washington!

While we

when

guarantee great weather and small crowds, we'll

can't

tell

you

you've got the best chances of encountering both, and we'll give

you tons of information

that will save your feet

and your

wallet,

not to

mention your temper. do and see off the beaten track on the Mall invites heat stroke the best-known attractions. At the same time,

You'll also find suggestions for things to

on hot August afternoons when and when crowds flock

to

we'll introduce the best close, places

go

of what D.C. has to offer

where the people who

after hours:

We'll also

a stroll

tell

live

and work

in

afi:er

best places

around

museums like to

and nightspots.

the great ethnic restaurants, theaters,

you about the

the

Washington

to shop, walk, take a hike,

get a workout, or ride a bike.

This guide

is

ington to see places, city's

designed both for folks planning a family its

famous monuments,

and museums, and

worst

hassles.

The

side of Washington that

trip to

Wash-

of government, historic

halls

who want to avoid the how you can see a re-creation of a Roman cat-

for business travelers

Unofficial

most

Guide

also

visitors miss: a

acomb, $90 million worth of antiques gardens of a fabulously rich heiress,

in

one

among

shows

place,

and the mansion and

other things.

The bottom line: We'll help you see Washington like a native. Of we can't promise that your D.C. visit will be perfect. But this

course,

guidebook can help you eliminate most of the needless

irritations that so

frequently spoil the fun for Washington tourists.

And who knows? Maybe you'll discover, book, that

there's

nothing

left to

as

we

did while researching this

"hate" about being a

Washington

visitor!

About This Guide

How Come **Unofficiari Most "official" guides to Washington, D.C, tout the well-known sights, promote the local restaurants and accommodations indiscriminately, and leave out a lot of good stuff This one is different.

About This Guide Instead of pandering to the tourist industry, we'll

bad

at a

well-known restaurant,

and

rious high prices, a break

now and

we'll

is

the food

is

guide you away from the crowds and lines for

requires wily strategies not unlike those used in

performed

ate in the city's best restaurants,

and

if

We sent in a team of evaluators who toured each site,

the sacking of Troy.

hotels,

you

tell

complain loudly about D.C.'s noto-

then.

Washington

Visiting

we'll

3

evaluations of

critical

Washington's wide variety of nightclubs. If a

visited

its

museum

boring, or standing in line for two hours to view a famous attraction

we

a waste of time,

more

say so

fun, efficient,

—

and, in the process, hopefully

is

make your visit

and economical.

Creating a Guidebook

We way

got into the guidebook business because travel guides force the reader to

Wouldn't

it

we

be nice,

thought,

if

work

we were unhappy with

to get

we were

make

to

the

any usable information. guides that are easy

to use?

Most guidebooks

are compilations of

whether the information

is

presented in

through pages of prose. There

is

lists.

list

This

is

form or

true regardless of

artfully distributed

insufficient detail in a

list,

and prose can

present tedious helpings of nonessential or marginally useful information.

Not enough wheat,

much

so to speak, for nourishment in

one instance, and too

chaff in the other. Either way, these types of guides provide

little

more than departure points from which readers initiate their own quests. Many guides are readable and well researched, but they tend to be difficult to use. To select a hotel, for example, a reader must study several pages of descriptions with only the boldface hotel names breaking up large blocks

same

of

variables,

lar hotel.

Because each description essentially deals with the

text. it is

difficult to recall

what was

said concerning a particu-

Readers generally must work through

beginning to narrow their choices. nightclubs,

and

attractions

usually required.

To

is

The

from

the write-ups before

similar except that even

use such a guide

is

scratch.

more reading

to undertake

research process that requires examining nearly as sibilities as starting

all

presentation of restaurants,

many options and

Recommendations,

if

is

an exhaustive pos-

any, lack depth

and conviction. These guides compound rather than solve problems by failing to

narrow

well-distilled,

How

travelers' choices

and manageable

down

to a thoughtfully considered,

few.

Unofficial Guides Are Different

Readers care about the authors' opinions.

posed to

know what

The

authors, after

all,

are sup-

they are talking about. This, coupled with the fact

that the traveler wants quick answers (as

opposed

to endless alternatives).

Introduction

4

dictates that authors

The

should be expHcit, prescriptive, and above

authors of the Unofficial Guide try to do just that.

alternatives

and recommend

of action.

specific courses

all,

complicated destinations and attractions and allow the traveler to control in the most unfamiliar environments. ficial

Guide Siuthors

is

Unofficial

Guide

all

of the infor-

accessible, useful information.

a critical reference work;

is

feel in

objective of the Unof-

not to give the most information or

mation, but to offer the most

An

The

direct.

They spell out They simplify

it

on

focuses

destination that appears to be especially complex.

Our

a travel

experienced

authors and research team are completely independent from the attractions, restaurants,

ington, D.C.,

of it,

is

and

we

hotels

as well as for business travelers

visiting

D.C.

The Unofficial Guide

describe.

to

Wash-

designed for individuals and families traveling for the fun

for the first time.

consumer-oriented adults

who

and conventioneers,

The guide

is

especially those

directed at value-conscious,

seek a cost-effective, though not spartan,

travel style.

Special Features

The

Unofficial

Guide offers the following

Friendly introductions to Washington's

"Best of"

listings, giving

our

1

on

things ranging

from bagels

2-story views.

keyed to your interests, so you can pick and choose.

Advice to sight-seers on travelers

fascinating neighborhoods.

well-qualified opinions

to baguettes, 4-star hotels to Listings that are

most

special features:

how

on how to avoid

Recommendations

to avoid the worst of the crowds; advice to business

traffic

and excessive costs.

for lesser-known sights that are

away from the huge monuments

of the Mall but are no less spectacular.

A zone

system and maps to make

it

easy to find places you want to go to and

avoid places you don't.

Expert advice on avoiding Washington's notorious street crime.

A

Hotel Information Chart that helps you narrow

ing to

down your

choices

fast,

accord-

your needs.

Shorter

listings

that include only those restaurants, clubs, and hotels

we

think are

worth considering.

A

detailed index to help

Insider advice

you

on crowds,

find things fast.

lines,

best times of day (or night) to go places, and, our

secret weapon, Washington's stellar subway system.

What you

wontgtv.

Long, useless

lists

where everything looks the same.

Information that gets you

somewhere you want

Information without advice on

how

to use

it.

to go at the worst possible time.

About This Guide

How This Guide Was While

a lot

Researched and Written

of guidebooks have been written about Washington, D.C.,

very few have been evaluative.

and

the hotels'

5

tourist offices'

Some guides come close to own promotional material.

regurgitating

In preparing

work, nothing was taken for granted. Each museum, monument,

this

federal building, hotel, restaurant, shop,

and

was

attraction

by a

visited

team of trained observers who conducted detailed evaluations and rated each according to formal

with tourists of

criteria.

Team members conducted

ages to determine

all

during their Washington

While our observers

interviews

what they enjoyed most and

least

visit.

independent and impartial, they did not claim

are

to have special expertise. Like you, they visited

Washington

as tourists or

business travelers, noting their satisfaction or dissatisfaction.

The primary evaluator vation.

The

skills in

trained evaluator

is

organization, preparation,

responsible for

much more

observing and cataloging. While the average tourist stacks of

$20

bills at

the professional

how

and the trained

difference between the average tourist

the evaluator's

is

is

the Bureau of Engraving

and

is

gazing in awe at

Printing, for instance,

rating the tour in terms of the information provided,

quickly the line moves, the location of rest rooms, and

He

children can see the exhibits.

how

well

or she also checks out things like other

attractions close by, alternate places to go if the line at a is

and obser-

than simply

main

attraction

too long, and the best local lunch options. Observer teams use detailed

checklists to analyze hotel rooms, restaurants, nightclubs, tions.

Finally,

tourist reactions profile

and the opinions of patrons

for a

museum

we

recognize that a tourist's age, background,

and

over another.

Our

sole objective

is

to provide the reader with

and pertinent data

knowledgeable decisions according to individual

Letters,

Washington's wide

account for a preference for one sight or

will

sufficient description, critical evaluation,

to

make

tastes.

Comments, and Questions from Readers

expect to learn from our mistakes, as well as from the input of our

readers,

who

and

to

improve with each new book and edition.

Many of those

use the Unofficial Guides write to us asking questions,

ments, or sharing their ton.

comprehensive quality

interests will strongly influence his or her taste in

array of attractions

We

attrac-

of each feature and service.

In compiling this guide,

and

and

evaluator ratings and observations are integrated with

We

appreciate

own

all

discoveries

and

making com-

lessons learned in

such input, both positive and

Washing-

critical,

and

encourage our readers to continue writing. Readers' comments and observations will frequently be incorporated into revised editions of the Unofficial Guide,

and

will contribute

immeasurably

to

its

improvement.

— 6

Introduction

How to Write

the Authors:

Eve

Joe,

The Unofficial Guide

Washington, D. C.

to

Box 43673

P.O.

Birmingham,

AL 35243

[email protected]

When

you write by mail, be sure to put your return address on your leton the envelope sometimes envelopes and letters get sepa-

—

ter as well as

rated.

And remember,

of time, so forgive us

our work takes us out of the if

our response

is

long periods

office for

delayed.

Reader Survey At the back of the guide you

will find a short questionnaire that

use to express opinions about your Washington naire out along the dotted line

How

Information

Is

and mail

it

visit.

to the

you can

Clip the question-

above address.

Organized:

By Subject and by Geographic Zones you

In order to give

fast access to

information about the

^f-j^

of Washing-

ton, we've organized material in several formats.

Since most people visiting Washington stay in one

Accommodations

hotel for the duration of their trip, hotels in charts, maps,

we have summarized our

coverage of

and rankings that allow you

ratings,

focus your decision-making process.

We

do not go on, page

to quickly after page,

describing lobbies and rooms which, in the final analysis, sound the same. Instead, tiate

one hotel from another: location,

amenities, and

concise table tions

we

is

cost.

much

concentrate on the specific variables that differen-

The accommodations

(page 57) and

all

room

size,

are

quality,

services,

compared by rankings

the vital information for

all

in a

accommoda-

provided in an extensive chart (pages 68-82).

Attractions

draw visitors

Attractions to

in a single trip.

—

historic buildings,

Washington, but

We

list

it's

them by type

mine what

to see

Restaurants

are the heart

art galleries

as well as location (see

and then evaluate each one, including These descriptions

museums,

practically impossible to see

its

them

all

page 180)

appeal to various age groups.

of this guidebook and help you to deter-

and when.

We

provide a lot of detail

when

it

comes

to restaurants.

more restaurant meals during your stay, and since not even you can predict what you might be in the mood for on Saturday night, we provide detailed profiles of the best restaurants in and around Washington. They are also listed by cuisine and location Since you will probably eat a dozen or

(profiles,

pages 274-334).

About This Guide Entertainment and Nightlife

Visitors frequently try several different

clubs or nightspots during their stay. Since clubs

and nightspots,

restaurants, are usually selected spontaneously after arriving in

ington, spots

we

believe detailed descriptions are warranted.

and lounges

in

Washington

Once

Geographic Zones there

becomes the

issue.

into geographic zones

Zone

1

7

The

like

Wash-

best night-

are profded as well (see page 372).

you've decided where you're going, getting

To help you do

that,

we have

and the suburbs into sub-zones:

divided the city

Zone I: The National Mall

ATTRACTIONS Arlington National Cemetery Arts and Industries Building (closed for renovations)

Bureau of Engraving and Printing

Corcoran Gallery of Art

DAR Museum Decatur House

Q Q jQ Q Q Q Q Q

Freer Gallery of Art

Hirshhorn Jefferson

10

Museum

Memorial

Lincoln Memorial

National Air and Space

Museum

National Aquarium National Gallery of Art-East National Gallery of Art-West

National National

Museum Museum

of African Art of

American History National

Museum

of the

American Indian

IQ

National Museum of Natural History

iN^ cpqRpr

National

World War

II

Memorial

Voice of America

The Octagon House Old Post

Office

Vietnam Veterans Memorial

Washington Monument

Tower

Renwick Gallery Roosevelt Memorial Sackler Gallery

Smithsonian Building (The Castle) U.S. Holocaust Memorial

Museum U.S. Department of the Treasury

ACCOMMODATIONS Channel Inn Hotel Loe\vs L'Enfant Plaza

Mandarin Oriental

NIGHTCLUBS Hard Rock Cafe Zanzibar

I

12

/n

II

0.125

0.25

Zone

MILES 0.25

2:

Capitol Hill 0.5

N

A

KILOMETERS

M ATTRACTIONS Folger Shakespeare

Library Library of Congress

National Postal

Museum

U.S. Botanic Garden

U.S. Capitol U.S. Supreme

Union

Coun

Station

ACCOMMODATIONS

O o

Holiday Inn Capitol Phoenix Park Hotel

RESTAURANTS La CoUine

Montmartre

BHdBSS ^rnn r^rnr

NIGHTCLUBS Dubliner

11

13

ATTRACTIONS FBI Ford's Theatre/Petersen

House

Museum Koshland Science Museum National Building Museum International

Spy

National Geographic Society

National

Museum

Women

of

in the Arts

ACCOMMODATIONS

o o

Best Western Capitol Hill

Capitol Hilton

Comfort Inn Downtown Four Points Sheraton Downtown

Grand Hyatt Washington Hamilton Crowne Plaza

(D Hay-Adams

14

Hotel

^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ @ ^ @

Hilton Garden Inn

HoUday Inn Downtown Holiday Inn on the Hill Hotel George

Hotel

Monaco

Hotel Washington

Hyatt Regency Capitol Hill

J.W. Marriott Hotel Jefferson Hotel

Lincoln Suites

Madison Hotel Marriott Metro Center

Red Roof Inn Downtown Renaissance Mayflower Hotel

Residence Inn Vermont Avenue Sofitel Lafayette St.

Regis

Washington Court Hotel

t:^ NSt.

MSt.

KSt.

gfmc

Washington Plaza Hotel

Jaleo

Washington Renaissance

Le Paradou

Hotel

Ocean aire

Wiilard Intercontinental

Old

The Wyndham

Ortanique

Washington

Ebbitt Grill

Red Sage Taberna

del Alabardero

RESTAURANTS

Teatro Goldoni

Andale.

TenPenh

Austin Grill

Tosca

Bistro Bis

Zaytinya

Burma

Zola

Cafe Adantico/Minibar

^^

Courduroy

NIGHTCLUBS

D.C. Coast

The Improv

Equinox

Ozio

Georgia Brown's

Platinum

Gerard's Place

15

Zone

0.125

4:

0.25

Foggy

Bottom

ATTRACTIONS JPK Center

for

Performing Arts

U.S. Dept. of Interior

U.S. State Dept. Diplomatic

Reception

Rooms

o o o

River Inn State Plaza Hotel

Watergate Hotel

RESTAURANTS

ACCOMMODATIONS

o o V

16

',:i/„.

.,;.i^j^^

^

Hotel Lombardy

One Washington Hotel

Kaz Sushi

Circle

Kinkead's

Bistro

Zone 5: Georgetown

an ATTRACTION Dumbarton Oaks and Gardens

O ®

Washington

Suites

Georgetown

The Westin Grand

Pizzeria Paradiso

Rocklands Saveur

ACCOMMODATIONS Four Seasons Hotel

o o o o o o

Georgetown Inn

RESTAURANTS ^J^

«

Sea Catch

Austin Grill

1789

Bistro Fran^ais

Sushi-Ko Zed's

Hotel Monticello

Cafe Divan

The Latham Hotel

Cafe Milano

The Melrose Hotel

Citronelle

NIGHTCLUBS

La Chaumiere

Blue Gin

Melrose

Blues Alley

Park

Hyan

Ritz-Carlton Georgetown

17

Zone

6:

Dupont

Circle/

Ad am s-M o rgan

MILES 0.125

0.25

KILOMETERS

18

Zone 7: Upper Northwest

IM

V'-^^^^^jwrnmom^mM, 20

Zone

8:

Northeast N

A

ATTRACTIONS Basilica

of the National Shrine

of the Immaculate Conception Franciscan Monastery

U.S. National Arboretum

0.25 0.5

Benning Rd Station

Fort

Dupont Park

22

ATTRACTIONS Anacostia

Museum

Frederick Douglass

Zone

9:

Southeast

0.25

0.5

23

ATTRACTIONS NASA/Godard Space

Flight Center

National Cryptologic

Museum

National Wildlife Visitor Center

ACCOMMODATIONS American Inn of Bethesda

Q ^ ^ ^ ® ^ ®

Holiday Inn Select Bethesda Holiday Inn Chevy Chase

Hohday Inn

Silver Spring

Hyatt Regency Bethesda Marriott Hotel Bethesda

Quality Inn College Park

Residence Inn Bethesda

Bethesda Court Hotel

o o o

24

Courtyard

New Carrollton

RESTAURANTS

Four Points Sheraton Bethesda

Addie's

Hilton of Silver Spring

Athenian Plaka

Austin Grill

Persimmon

Bangkok Garden

Tako

Benjarong

Tara Thai (two locations)

Black's Bar

Bombay

& Kitchen

Bistro

Good Fortune

Grill

Taste of Saigon Tavira

Thai Farm

Grapeseed

Green Papaya Jaleo

NIGHTCLUBS Dave & Buster's

Jean-Michel

Half Moon Bar-B-Que

Le Mannequin Pis

Yacht Club of Bethesda

Old

Angler's Inn

25

:

Zone

I

I

Virginia

Suburbs

26

Part One

Planning Your Visit

Washington

to

When to Go Going When the Weather The

best times to visit

weather

is

Washington

Good

bloom

in late

March

a show.

fall,

The

when

city's

or early April, while

fall

the

fabled

brings

weather and, by mid-October, a spectacular display of gold,

orange, and red leaves.

The summers and humid. they sprint

and

are in the spring

most pleasant and nature puts on

cherry blossoms crisp, cool

Is

— mid-June

through September

—

can be brutally hot

and August not only contend with the heat as from building to building, but also must endure the city's

Visitors in July

heavy reliance on August, with

air

conditioning that often reaches meat-locker

predictably oppressive heat,

its

is

the

chill.

month when Wash-

ingtonians leave town in droves.

Washington's winter weather, on the other hand,

mid-60s days are possible through December. While

it

is

erratic.

teens in January

and February, midday temperatures can climb

and

the season to beat the crowds.

50s.

This

March

is

into the 40s

While warm daytime temperatures are frequent, somemoist air mass moving north from the Gulf of Mexico will

tricky.

times a large, collide

is

Balmy,

often gets into the

with a blast of

frigid air

from Canada. The

snowfall that paralyzes the city for days. ness, that the prediction

(It

result

is

a big,

should be noted, in

wet

all fair-

of snow can paralyze D.C.)

Washington weather can run the gamut from subzero (rarely), to mild (most of the winter, some of the summer, and most of the spring and fall), to scorchingly hot and unbearably humid (most of July and August). See the boxed table,

on page 31, of the

city's

average monthly temperatures,

in degrees Fahrenheit.

29

.

30

Part

Planning Your Visit to Washington

One

Avoiding Crowds on weekends than weekdays,

In general, popular tourist sites are busier

summer

Saturdays are busier than Sundays, and

The

attractions are

the

is

busier than winter.

best days for avoiding big crowds at Washington's

week

Monday through Wednesday. Crowds

progresses, with the

During the

volume of

busiest tourist seasons, spring

most popular

begin to increase as

peaking on Saturday.

visitors

and summer, major Washing-

ton tourist attractions are always crowded between 9:30 a.m. and 3 p.m.

For people in town on business,

means heavier

this tourist influx

congested airports, a packed Metro

.

.

.

and

traffic,

tough time finding a con-

a

venient hotel room.

Driving in weekday rush hours, featuring at

short-tempered bureaucrats clawing their be avoided

at all costs.

their families

the

become

On weekends,

way

least

100,000

to office or

frantic,

home, should

the same government workers and

tourists, often creating

midday

during

traffic snarls

warmer months.

If you're driving to

Washington, try to time your

or during a non-rush hour time

row window

—

around 9:30 a.m. and

that opens

around 3 p.m. Afternoon

arrival

on

a

weekend

before 7 a.m. or during a rather nar-

traffic doesn't

starts to close

quickly

begin to clear up until at least

6:30 p.m. Friday afternoon rush hours are the worst: Don't even think of driving near

D.C.

until after 8 p.m.

TO BEAT THE CROWDS

. .

Avoid the worst tourist seasons: the Cherry Blossom

Festival (early spring)

and mid-summer. Hit major Mall attractions on v/eekdays or Sunday.

Avoid driving 7

in

rush hour (which

in

D.C. means 7 a.m. to 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. to

p.m.).

Get

off the Mall

and

visit

Georgetown, Dupont

Circle,

or downtown attractions.

Trying to Reason with the Tourist Season Whether

you're in

town on business or

pleasure,

aware of when the big crowds of tourists are

it's

likely to

a

good

idea to be

be jamming up the

Metro, the sidewalk, or the place you've picked for lunch.

The cially,

best time to avoid crowds entirely

the Mall

is

nearly deserted and

is

in winter.

On weekdays espe-

museums, monuments, and nor-

mally crowd-intensive hot spots like the Capitol are nearly empty

—except scarcity

for the people

who work

there.

Furthermore, the

relative

of tourists in the off-season eliminates the worst of D.C. 's

gridlock, except during peak rush hours.

traffic

When

to

Go

WASHINGTON'S AVERAGE MONTHLYTEMPERATURES

31

32

Part

Planning Your Visit to Washington

One

A CALENDAR OF FESTIVALS AND EVENTS Washington hosts

throughout the year:

a variety of special events

celebrations, parades, shows, festivals, tours, film

What

ceremonies.

follows

is

and

a listing of some of D.C.'s

well-known annual events. For exact

and most popular and

dates, times, locations,

phone numbers provided before your

sion fees, call the tional information

on

special events, log

on

to

fairs,

jazz festivals,

and admis-

visit.

For addi-

www.washingtonpost.com

or www.washington.org before you hit town.

January Robert

E. Lee's

War Colonel

The

Birthday Celebration

birthdays of Revolutionary

Light Horse Harry Lee and his son, Robert E. Lee, are

celebrated at the Lee-Fendall

Home

House and The Boyhood

E. Lee in Alexandria, Virginia. Refreshments, period music,

Admission

fee.

of Robert

house tours.

(703) 548-8454.

February

The nations largest parade celOld Town Alexandria. Free.

George Washington's Birthday Parade ebrating our

first

president takes place in

(703) 991-4474.

March More than 6,000

National Cherry Blossom Festival trees

to

bloom from

late

March

Washington. The Cherry Blossom

floats,

Japanese cherry

to early April, bringing springtime splendor

and VIPs. Other events include

Festival Parade features princesses, free concerts, the

Japanese Lantern

Lighting Ceremony, the Cherry Blossom Ball, and an annual marathon.

The parade

hotline

is

(202) 619-7222 or go to www.nationalcherry

blossomfestival .org.

Kite makers and flyers of

Smithsonian Kite Festival the Washington Free. (202)

Monument

ages gather at

all

grounds to compete for prizes and trophies.

357-3030.

The Longest Lines Unlike Disney World, a tourist destination with which Washington shares

some

similarities,

D.C. has only

require enduring long queues

FBI (now closed

—most

for renovations).

a handful of attractions that

notably, the U.S. Capitol

Even

ning can virtually guarantee you won't spend hours standing in If your visit to

Washington must coincide with the heavy

read on: There are ways to

make

it

more

and the

at these, a little judicious planline.

tourist season,

tolerable, in spite

of the record

A

Calendar of Festivals and Events

33

April

White House Easter Egg

For children ages 3-6 accompanied by

Roll

an adult. Eggs and entertainment provided. Children of other ages gather on the South Lawn of the White House. Free. (202) 456-2200.

Tour the beautiful gardens of the

White House Spring Garden Tours presidential

home.

Free. (202)

456-2200.

A

William Shakespeare's Birthday events, food,

and

day of music,

theater, children's

exhibits at the Folger Shakespeare Library. Free. (202)

544-4600.

May Memorial Day Ceremonies at Arlington National Cemetery Wreathlaying ceremonies at the Kennedy grave site, a presidential wreath-laying at the Tomb of the Unknowns, and services at the Memorial Amphitheater featuring military

bands and a presidential keynote address.

Free.

(202) 697-213 L

Memorial Day Ceremonies at the Vietnam Veterans Memorial Wreathlaying, speeches, military bands, and a keynote address. Free. (202) 6197222. National

Law Enforcement

ors America's fallen

names

Officers

law enforcement

Memorial Candlelight Vigil officers; official

being added to the memorial, located

and Fikh

Streets,

NW.

Free. (202)

on E

Fion-

dedication of

Street

new

between Fourth

737-3400.

Washington National Cathedral Flower Mart

Each year

different country, with flower booths, entertainment,

is

a salute to a

and decorating

demonstrations. Free. (202) 537-6200.

June American festival

Folklife Festival

of American music,

More than one crafts,

million people attend this

and ethnic foods on the National Mall

each year. Free. (202) 357-2700.

crowds jamming the Mall, the popular museums, portation,

tion

on

and highways. Check

transportation,

and

Part Five (page

1

eateries,

public trans-

19) for detailed informa-

Part Six (page 137) for pages of sight-seeing tips.

Getting to Washington Folks planning a trip to our nation's capital have it

comes

some options when

to getting there: by car, train, or plane. Your distance from

Washington

—and your

tolerance for hassles such as Capital Beltway

34

Part

Planning Your Visit to Washington

One

A CALENDAR OF FESTIVALS AND EVENTS

(continued)

June (continued) Barbecue Battle

Serious competition, cooking demonstrations, free

samples, children's activities. Pennsylvania

and 14th

Capital jazz Fest

Three days of

national acts, workshops, food,

land suburbs. sion

fee.

Avenue

NW between Ninth

(301) 860-0630.

Streets.

Check out

their

live,

contemporary

and juried

Web

site at

crafts.

jazz featuring top

Held

in D.C.'s

Mary-

www.capitaljazz.com. Admis-

(202) 737-2300.

Dupont-Kalorama Museum Walk Day

Celebration of collections by six

institutions in the area. Activities include textile demonstrations, video

programs, interactive tours, hands-on art programs, historic house tours, food, and crafts. Shuttle service provided. Free. (202) 667-0441.

July National independence Day Celebration

matic readings, a parade

down

(July 4)

A

full

day of dra-

Constitution Avenue, a demonstration of

colonial military maneuvers, entertainment at the Sylvan Theatre, a con-

by the National Symphony Orchestra, and a spectacular fireworks

cert

display over the

Washington Monument.

Soap Box Derby

Soap-box

cars roll

Free. (202)

down

619-7222.

Constitution Avenue between

New Jersey and Louisiana Avenues in Capitol

Hill. Free. (202)

670-1 110.

August Legg Mason Tennis Classic For

tickets, call

Top pro

tennis action in

Rock Creek

Park.

(202) 397-SEAT. For info, go to v^n^n^v.leggmasontennis

classic.com.

U.S.

Army

A concert and pageant at on the Washington Monument grounds. Free. (202)

Band's 1812 Overture Concert

the Sylvan Theatre

208-1631.

gridlock and inconveniently located airports

—

which mode of transportation you ultimately Arriving and Getting Oriented,

will

probably determine

take. (See also Part Four,

p. 93.)

Driving

A

lot

else

of people

who

live in the

populous Eastern Seaboard or anywhere

within a 12-hour drive of D.C. automatically

jump

in the family car

Getting to Washington

35

Summer-long Activities

C&O

Canal Mule-drawn Boat Rides

through October) Mule-

(April

Georgetown and Great Falls, Virginia. Costumed Park Service guides accompany each 60-minute trip, telling the canal's history through stories and song. Admission fee. (301) 299-3613.

drawn barge

rides in

Military

Band Summer Concert Series

Outdoor concerts held every

summer

evening (except Saturdays), from

Memorial Day through Labor

Day, beginning

at 8

p.m. Free. Concerts are held on a rotating basis on the

steps of the U.S. Capitol, the Sylvan Theatre (on the grounds of the

Monument) and

ington

the

Navy Memorial

Avenue). For the current schedule, U.S.

Army

1;

U.S.

Navy Band,

or

Band,

Army Band

holds

its

"Twilight Tat-

7 p.m. on the Ellipse (near die White House) on Wednesdays;

more information on

(202) 685-2852. For visit

Own" Marine

(202) 433-2525; U.S. Air Force Band,

(202) 767-5658. In addition, the U.S. too" at

the service-band information lines:

call

Band, (202) 696-3399; "The President's

(202) 433-401

Wash-

Plaza (on Pennsylvania

concerts, call (202)

685-4989

www.army.mil/armyband. west

Monday

U.S.

Tuesday

U.S. Army Band, various locations

Navy Band,

U.S. Capitol,

U.S. Air Force Band, U.S. Capitol, U.S.

Wednesday

Friday

Navy Band, Navy Memorial

west side

Plaza

Marine Band, U.S. Capitol 7 p.m. on the

U.S. Army

Band "Twilight Tattoo"

U.S. Army

Band, U.S. Capitol, west side

U.S. Air Force Band, Sylvan

Sunday

side

at

Ellipse

Theatre

Marine Band, Sylvan Theatre

Navy Memorial Concerts on the Avenue Series Beginning on Memorial Day at 8 p.m. and continuing each Tuesday evening at 8 p.m. through Labor Day At the U.S. Navy Memorial on Pennsylvania U.S.

Avenue.

Free. (202)

433-2525.

when embarking on

a vacation to

Washington.

And no

wonder: Even

though gasoline prices have increased, a nearly complete interstate highway system makes the car trip both easy and inexpensive. The problem, however,

is

when you

arrive in

Washington ...

or, to

be more exact,

when you hit the notorious Capital Beltway that surrounds the between 7 a.m. and 10 a.m. or in

city in

on a weekday morning the afternoon from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m.

the Maryland and Virginia suburbs. Arrive

Pan One

36

Planning Your Visit to Washington

A CALENDAR OF FESTIVALS AND EVENTS

(continued)

September Kalorama House and Embassy Tour Tour selected homes and Woodrow Wilson House. Admission fee. (202) 387-

embassies and the

4062,

ext. 18.

Kennedy Center Prelude

The John

Festival

Performing Arts celebrates the

with

arts

F.

Kennedy Center

free concerts

for the

and performances.

(202) 467-4600; w^ww. kennedy-center.org.

October

An

Marine Corps Marathon

world-class marathoners. Starts

Arlington. Registration

Taste of D.C. Festival

and ethnic

fee.

finishes at the

attracts

thousands of

Iwo Jima Memorial

in

(800) RUN-USMC.

The

best of D.C.'s vast array of restaurant food

one of the

cuisine;

annual event that

and

city's

most popular outdoor

Free

festivals.

admission; purchase tickets for food tastings. (202) 789-7002; www.taste ofdc.org.

White House Fail Garden Tours View the Rose Garden and Lawn to the sounds of a military band. Free. (202) 456-2200.

the South

November Veteran's tery.

Day Ceremonies

Solemn ceremony with

(November

1 1)

Arlington National

military bands to

honor the

Ceme-

nation's

war

dead. (202) 685-2951. Additional ceremonies at the Vietnam Veterans

Memorial on the National Mall, (202) 619-7222; Mount Vernon, (703)

and

why Washington

you'll discover

tion rivaled only by

ing rush hours and

New York and is

has a reputation for

conges-

traffic

Los Angeles: Traffic inches along dur-

astonishingly heavy the rest of the day and

warm-weather weekends

as well. It

on

only gets worse the closer you get to

the Mall. Washington's peculiar geography and eighteenth-century street layout, coupled with unremitting urban

and suburban growth, makes

touring by car almost impossible. Street parking near popular tourist sights

is

If at

all

and parking garages, while

severely limited,

town D.C,

are expensive

possible, leave the car at

tions are excellent,

And where

and

plentiful in

down-

and often inconvenient. Our recommendation:

its

home. Washington's

Metro subway system

is

air

and

rail

connec-

one of the best

in the

—

Metro won't take you Georgetown, Mount Vernon, and the Washington National Cathedral come to mind plentiful

world.

the

—

cabs and commercial touring outfits will. If you do drive, arrive

on

a

Getting to Washington

37

780-2000; and the U.S. Navy Memorial on Pennsylvania Avenue, (202) 737-2300.

Free.

December An American Holiday Celebration A holiday music show by the U.S. Army Band at DAR Constitution Hall. Free, but tickets are required to assure seating. After

September

or

An American HoUday Cele-

only, w^rite to:

bration, Building 42, Ft. Leslie].

McNair, Washington, D.C. 20319-5050;

(202) 685-2851 for information.; (866) 239-9425 for reservations.

call

Historic Alexandria Candlelight Tours

Visit

Lloyd House, Gadsby's

Tavern Museum, the Lee-Fendall House, and the Carlyle House in Old

Town Alexandria.

Music, colonial dancing, period decorations, and light

refreshments. Admission

(703) 838-4242.

foe.

National Christmas Tree Lighting/Pageant of Peace

the end of the year, the Ellipse a nativity scene, a

Christmas

is

burning yule

trees representing

\v^ww. pageantofpeace.org.

the

site

of nightly choral performances,

and

a spectacular display of lighted

Pearl

Harbor Day

(December

7)

Pearl Harbor. Free. (202)

Metro

territory. Free.

Wreath-laying ceremony

Nav)^ Memorial on Pennsylvania Avenue to

commemorate

(202) 619-

at the

U.S.

the attack

on

737-2300.

to miss the worst traffic, or very early or late

at a hotel

president

log,

each state and

7222;

weekend

The

National Christmas Tree near the White House. Through

lights the giant

on

a

weekday. Stay

with off-street parking and within easy walking distance to a

station.

Use public transportation and leave the

through most of your

car parked

stay.

Taking the Train Washington's gleaming Union Station, recently refurbished and the

most

number

two),

an excellent

is

city's

Museum

is

only one of the reasons that taking the train to D.C.

is

visited tourist attraction (the National Air

idea.

Another

is

and Space

convenience: Folks living along the East

Coast from Boston to Miami are served daily by Amtrak, and

lots

of peo-

ple living east of the Mississippi are close to direct rail service into the nation's capital. (In arrive in

some

Washington

cases

you can board the

in the morning.)

train in the evening

From Union

and

Station you're only

38

Part

Planning Your Visit to Washington

One

minutes from a downtown hotel by cab. Because of the traffic

need

—and

—

for a car

vided a

listing

it's

way

the smart

of some major

service to Washington's

the

city's

exasperating

a public transportation system that virtually eliminates the

Union

number of trains running

to travel to

cities

Washington. We've pro-

with direct Amtrak passenger train

Station (the frequency of service indicates in both directions).

For schedules and reservations,

call

Amtrak

at

(800) 872-7245 or

www.aintrak.com.

AMTRAK PASSENGER TRAIN ReglonlCity

Distance

SERVICE TO WASHINGTON

Travel Time

Frequency

visit

— Getting to Washington

39

some odd restrictions: Planes aren't White House and other sensitive places, so all are routed over the Potomac River; no planes are

closeness to the city has resulted in

allowed to

fly

over the

approaches and

takeofiFs

allowed to take off or land land or take off an hour;

only 37 large

late at night;

and

to and from National to a distance of 1,250 miles or

no international connections, think of National

allowed to

jets are

a "perimeter rule" restricts

nonstop

less.

With

flights

virtually

the "East Coast,

as

short-hop" airport. If you can't get a direct flight into National from your

hometown, consider making National.

It

probably be

will

a

connection that will get you into

faster

—and

more convenient

certainly

than flying into either of the other two airports that serve Washington.

While Reagan

is

our

first

choice for travelers flying into D.C.,

proximity to the bustling city creates problems for the unwary incredibly congested by heavy

parking

is

traffic.

Parking

and renting a

a long bus ride away;

and driving into D.C.

The good

can be a drawn-out, frustrating experience.

terminal should help reduce the curbside congestion.

town

are reasonable; free shuttles can get

or so; and National has

its

own Metro

Dulles International Airport,

wonder: car

It's

as

news:

Cab

A

$1 billion

fares to

down-

your hotel in a half-hour

to

stop.

the other hand,

is

rarely congested.

No

located in the boonies of Virginia, a solid hour fi-om the city by

and with no

known

on

you

close

expensive; long-term

is

car

its

flyer: It's

direct public transportation

downtown. Dulles

an international hub, although domestic

flights

is

primarily

are

on the

1996 doubled the main sly marketing move a few

increase (spurring a construction project that in terminal's size to 1.1 million square feet). In a

became Baltimore/Washington

years back, Baltimore's Friendship Airport

International Airport (BWI).

It

worked: 2000 was a record-breaking year

for this ever-expanding air hub. Southwest, for example, has increased

its

low-cost service to 65 flights a day, attracting a lot of travelers to Washing-

ton

who would otherwise drive. BWI

national market, this

and

busy airport

is

means D.C. -bound the

in still

1997 opened

is

also aggressively

closer to Baltimore than to

tourists face at least a

Washington Monument comes into

arriving at

MARC)

BWI

is

to take the train:

and Amtrak connect

takes almost an hour,

BWI

though

—

pursuing an inter-

a $1 10 million international pier. Yet

Washington, which

50-minute car or van ride before view.

Another option

Mar)dand commuter to D.C.'s

Union

rail

Station.

for folks

service (called

The

train ride

hardly convenient for tourists itching to

explore the marble edifices lining the Mall.

.

Part

Tv/

Accommodations

Deciding Where to Stay On

weekdays, driving and parking in

On

marish.

extremely

way

weekends there

is

downtown Washington traffic

less

difficult, particularly in the area

to get

around Washington

is

are night-

congestion, but parking

is

of the Mall. Because the best

on the Metro, we recommend a hotel With two rather prominent

within walking distance of a Metro station. exceptions,

all

of Washington's best

and Maryland suburbs,

are safely

areas, as well as

most of the Virginia

and conveniently

accessible via this

modern subway system. Only historic Georgetown and the colorful, ethnic Adams-Morgan neighborhood are off-line. Unless you plan to spend most of your time in Georgetown, we suggest that you pick a hotel elsewhere in the city. If you lodge in Georgeclean,

town, you will be reduced to driving or cabbing to get anywhere else. Adams-Morgan, a great neighborhood for dining and shopping, does not offer much in the way of lodging. If you go to Adams-Morgan, especially at night, take a cab.

Some 1

Considerations

When is

choosing your Washington lodging, make sure your hotel

situated in a location convenient to your recreation or business

needs,

and

that while

that it is

it is

in a safe

and comfortable

tion Center (the major convention venue)

downtown

area. Please

note

not practical to walk to the Washington Conven-

hotels, larger conventions

from many of the

and trade shows provide

shuttle service. 2.

Find out

how

renovated.

brochure.

old the hotel

is

and when the guest rooms were

Request that the hotel send you

Ask

if

its

last

promotional

brochure photos of guest rooms are accurate and

current.

41

42

Accommodations

PartTwo

If

3.

If

you

few

a

all;

are not a city dweller, or if

on

a hotel

street

and high up.

you

at

a

more

of Washington

on

are

some charge

dearly for park-

offer free parking.

book

Much

5.

no parking

hotels offer

and

ing; 4.

to take a car, inquire about the parking situation.

you plan

Some

you

are a light sleeper, try to

quiet side street.

Ask

quite beautiful, as

is

is

the

Potomac

room on

a romantic holiday, ask for a

room

for a

off the

River. If

a higher floor

with a good view.

When

6.

you plan your budget, remember

that there

is

a

14.5%

hotel tax (including sales tax) in the District of Columbia.

Washington

7.

States. If

one of the busiest convention

is

your

visit to

cities in

major conventions or trade shows, hotel rooms

and expensive. visit to

at

If,

the United

Washington coincides with one or more

on the other hand, you

will

be both scarce

are able to schedule

your

avoid big meetings, you will have a good selection of hotels

reasonably competitive prices. If you happen to be attending

one of the big conventions, book listed visit,

early

below to get a discounted room

we have

Getting a

and use some of the

rate.

To

assist in

tips

timing your

included a convention and trade show calendar.

Good Deal on

a

Room

Though Washington, D.C., is a major tourist destination, the economics of hotel room pricing is driven by business, government, and convention trade. This translates to high "rack rates" (a hotel's published room rate) and very few bargains. The most modest Econo Lodge or Days Inn in Washington charges from $84 such

as

to

$139

a night,

and mid-range chains,

Holiday Inn and Radisson, ask from $129 to $229.

The good news

is

that Washington, D.C.,

land suburbs offer a staggering

and

its

Virginia and Mary-

number of unusually fine hotels, includThe bad news, of course, is that

ing a high percentage of suite properties.

you can expect In

most

to

pay dearly to stay

the better

cities,

the city center, with

less

in

them.

and more expensive

hotels are located close to

expensive hotels situated farther out. There

normally a trade-off between location and

is

price: If you are willing to stay

commute into downtown, you can expect to your suburban room than you would for a downtown room.

out off the interstate and

pay

less for

In Washington, D.C., unfortunately, In the greater thing.

No

Washington

matter

how

far

it

very rarely works this way.

area, every hotel

you

are

is

seemingly close to some-

from the Capitol, the Mall, and down-

town, you can bank on your hotel being within spitting distance of some bureau, agency, airport, or industrial complex that funnels platoons of

Getting a business travelers into guest

accommodation

every

rooms

has

Mall but

stays full

Where Special

for

example,

with

is

1

nearby National Institutes of Health.

Weekend Rates it's

tough

are

not impossible to get a good deal,

starters,

40%

5 to

usual

30 to 40 minutes away by car from the

visitors to the

some

for the budget-

at least relatively speak-

hotels that cater to business, government,

convention travelers offer special weekend discount

specials

the

Beltway and

the Hotel Discounts Are

conscious,

For

43

Because almost

in a constant flow.

own captive market, apply. The Marriott at the

Although well-located Washington hotels

ing.

a Roonn

its

proximity/price trade-off doesn't

Wisconsin Avenue,

Good Deal on

below normal weekday

rates.

You can

rates that

find out about

by calling individual hotels or by consulting your

and

range from

weekend

travel agent.

Getting Corporate Rates

Many hotels offer discounted corporate rates you do not need

to

work

for a large

(5 to

company

20% off rack).

Usually

or have a special relation-

ship with the hotel to obtain these rates. Simply call the hotel of your rates. Many hotels will guarantee you phone when you make your reservation. Othconditional on your providing some sort of bona

choice and ask for their corporate the discounted rate ers

may make

on

the rate

fides, for instance a fax

the

on your company's

letterhead requesting the rate,

on check-in.

Generally, the

you cannot book the hotel of your choice through a

half-price pro-

or a

company

screening

is

credit card or business card

not rigorous.

Preferred Rates If

may have

gram, you and your travel agent often called a preferred rate.

A

preferred rate could be a discount

initiated to attract a certain class

made

activity,

or a discount

of traveler. Most preferred

rates are pro-

available to travel agents to stimulate their

moted through

to search for a lesser discount,

booking

travel industry publications

and so

are often accessible

only through an agent.

We recommend sounding out your travel agent about possible deals. aware that the

rates

shown on

travel agents'

tems are not always the lowest hotels that tions,

fill

computerized reservations

rates obtainable.

Zero

on

a couple of

your needs in terms of location and quality of accommoda-

and then have your

travel agent call for the latest rates

Hotel reps are almost always more responsive to travel

in

Be

sys-

and

travel agents

agents represent a source of additional business. There

specials.

because

are certain

specials that hotel reps will disclose only to travel agents. Travel agents also

come

in

handy when the

hotel

you want

is

supposedly booked.

A

44

Accommodations

PartTwo

personal appeal from your agent to the hotel's director of sales and mar-

keting will get you a

room more than

half of the time.

Half-price Programs

The

larger discounts

on rooms (35

to

60%),

Washington or anywhere

in

through half-price hotel programs, often called

else, are available

travel

Program operators contract with an individual hotel to provide rooms at deep discounts, usually 50% off rack rate, on a "space available" basis. Space available in practice generally means that you can reserve a clubs.

room

80%

at the

discounted rate whenever the hotel expects to be

occupancy.

A

little

at less

than

calendar sleuthing to help you avoid city-wide

conventions and special events will increase your chances of choosing a

when the discounts are available. Most half-price programs charge an annual membership fee or directory subscription charge of $25 to $125. Once enrolled, you are mailed a

time

membership card and

a directory listing participating hotels.

the directory, you will notice immediately that there are

and exceptions. Some

tions

or times of year. Others the

week or

may

offer a

require

much

Programs

More

you

may

only offer the discount on certain days of

to stay a certain

domestic

established operators offer

hotels to choose

from

restric-

hotels, for instance, "black out" certain dates

smaller discount than

specialize in

Examining

many

in the

50%

nights. Still others

off rack rate.

travel, international travel,

or both.

members between 1,000 and 4,000

United

heavy concentration of hotels in

number of

States. All

California and

of the programs have a

and most have

Florida,

very limited selection of participating properties in

New

a

York City or

and regions of the United States vary The programs with the largest selections of Washington

Boston. Offerings in other considerably.

hotels are Encore, Travel

cities

America

at

Half Price (Entertainment Publica-

tions), International Travel Card, and Quest. Each of these programs

between 4 and

50 hotels in the greater

Washington

lists

area.

D.C. Half-price Hotel Progi Encore Entertainment Publications

One problem

(800) 285-5525; www.entertainment.com

Card

(800) 342-0558

Quest

(800)638-9819

International Travel

50%

(800) 638-0930; www.preferredtraveller.com

with half-price programs

discount. Another slippery problem

the discount

is

rack rate that

may deduct

applied.

Some

nobody would

is

that not

is

all

hotels offer a full

the base rate against

hotels figure the discount

ever have to pay.

which

on an exaggerated

A few participating hotels

the discount from a supposed "superior" or "upgraded"

room

Getting a rate,

even though the room you get

tion.

Though hard

to pin

is

Good Deal on a Roonn

the hotel's standard

45

accommoda-

down, the majority of participating properties

&

Travel Index (a quaron the pubHshed rate in the Hotel work used by travel agents) and work within the spirit of their agreement with the program operator. As a rule, if you travel several times a year, your room rate savings will easily compensate you for pro-

base discounts terly reference

gram membership fees. A noteworthy addendum: Deeply discounted rooms through programs

means

are not

that

commissionable to

you must ordinarily make your own inquiry

tions. If you travel frequently,

your

travel agents. In practical

travel agent,

however, and run a

lot

calls

half-price

terms this

and

reserva-

of business through

he or she will probably do your legwork, lack of com-

mission notwithstanding. Hotel Discounters

Accommodations Express Capitol Reservations

Hotel Discounts

Hotels.com

Quikbook Washington, D.C. Accommodations

(800) 444-7666 (800) 847-4832; www.hotelsdc.com

(800) 715-7666; www.hoteldiscounts.com

(800) 964-6835;

www. hotels.com

(800) 789-9887; www.quikbook.com (800) 503-3338

Wholesalers, Consolidators, and Reservation Services directory,

you can

take advantage of the services of a wholesaler or consolidator.

Whole-

If you

do not want

to join a

program or buy a discount

and consolidators buy rooms, or options on rooms (room blocks), from hotels at a low, negotiated rate. They then resell the rooms at a

salers

through

profit

Most

travel agents

and tour packagers, or

rooms

to participating hotels, but they are disinclined to

wholesaler's or consolidator's relationship with

volume.

rooms

If

any hotel

is

they return rooms unsold, the hotel might not

available to

them

consolidators often offer

50%

directly to the public.

wholesalers and consolidators have a provision for returning unsold

do

The

so.

predicated

make

as

the next time around. Thus, wholesalers

rooms

at

bargain

rates, at

anywhere from

on

many 1

and 5 to

off rack, occasionally sacrificing their profit margin in the process,

to avoid returning the

rooms

to the hotel unsold.

When wholesalers and consolidators deal directly with the public, they frequently represent themselves as "reservation services." When you call, you can ask

for a rate

quote for a particular hotel,

their best available deal in the area

maximum amount you will find

are willing to pay, say so.

something that

will

work

or, alternatively,

where you prefer

ask for

to stay. If there

Chances

are,

is

a

the service

for you, even if they have to shave a

46

Accommodations

PartTwo

dollar or

two ofF

your room

Other times you

tion.

own

their

profit.

Sometimes you

will

have to pay for

when you make your reservausual time, when you check out.

with a credit card,

in advance,

pay

will

at the

Bed-and-Breakfasts (Bi&Bs)

B&Bs

on personal

offer a lodging alternative based

ity that

transcend the

sterile,

they can be quirky. Most, but not

ever,

Some

service

and

B&Bs

all,

are

rooms come with

Not

private baths

may have

all

how-

open year-round.

accept only cash or personal checks, while others take

credit cards.

hospital-

predictable product of chain hotels;

all

major

Some rooms with or vice versa. Some allow

private baths.

a tub but not a shower,

children but not pets; others, pets but not children.

Many B&Bs

provide

only the most basic breakfast, while some provide a sumptuous morning feast. Still

others offer three meals a day.

accessible,

but

it

Because staying are

at a

B&B

recommended, though

come

Most B&Bs

are not wheelchair

never hurts to ask. is

like visiting

B&Bs

someone's home, reservations

with more than ten rooms usually wel-

To help you sort out your B&B options, we recommend Updated regularly, these books describe B&Bs in

walk-ins.

the following guides.

more

detail

than

is

possible in the Unofficial Guide.

and Approved, Bed

Inspected, Rated,

& Breakfasts and Country Inns, by

Beth Burgreen Stuhlman, published by the American Bed Association. Covers the entire United States. Visit

Bed

& Breakfasts— Country Inns and The

Historic Inns,

Breakfast

Official

Guide

to

American

by Deborah Sakach, published by American Historic Inns,

Covers the entire United

Inc.

&

www.abba.com.

Recommended Country

States.

To

phone (949) 499-8070. and Chesapeake Region, by

order,

Inns, Mid-Atlantic

Suzi Forbes Chase, published by the Globe Pequot Press. Covers Virginia,

West

Delaware, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Virginia.

To

order,

For Washington area

B&B

reservations,

www.bedandbreakfastdc.com, or tions Ltd. at (202)

New

Jersey,

call

check the

Bed and

Web

Breakfast

Do

answer

is

and

rates

site

located at

Accommoda-

to

Washington.

some direction. Check out the loca-

no, be prepared to give your travel agent

not accept any recommendations

tion

York, and

328-3510.

HelpingYour Travel Agent Help You When you call your travel agent, ask if he or she has been If the

New

phone (800) 243-0495.

at face value.

of any suggested hotel and make certain that the hotel

is

suited to your itinerary.

Because some

may

try to plug

travel agents are unfamiliar

you

with Washington, your agent

into a tour operators or wholesaler's preset package.

.

Getting a This essentially allows the gle

phone

call

this scenario

and

that

is

ness with only

still

travel

collect

agent to

most agents

set

10%

an 8 to

trip

with a

sin-

commission. The problem with

90%

will place

of their Washington busi-

and not much choice

Travel agents will often use wholesalers airlines, like

tions.

up your whole

47

one or two wholesalers or tour operators. In other words,

the line of least resistance for them,

with

Good Deal on a Room

Deltas

Dream

who

it's

for you.

run packages in conjunction

Vacations or Americans Fly-Away Vaca-

Because of the wholesalers exclusive relationship with the

carrier,

these trips are very easy for travel agents to book. However, they will prob-

ably be

more expensive than

who works

To help your 1

by a high-volume wholesaler

a package offered

with a number of airlines in a primarily Washington market. travel

agent get you the best possible deal, do the following:

Determine where you want

to stay in

Washington and,

if possible,

choose a specific hotel. This can be accomplished by reviewing the hotel information provided in this guide

and by writing or

calling

hotels that interest you. 2.

Check out the hotel deals and package vacations advertised in the Sunday travel section of the Washington Post. Often you will be able to find deals that beat the socks off anything offered ia your local paper. See if

you can find

include a hotel you 3.

specials that

fit

your plans and

like.

Call the hotels, wholesalers, or tour operators

whose ads you have

collected. Ask any questions you have concerning their packages,

but do not book your 4.

Tell

your

travel agent

trip

benchmark

against

directly.

about the deals you find and ask

can get you something a

with them

better.

which

The

to

if

he or she

deals in the paper will serve as

compare

alternatives

proposed by

your travel agent. 5.

Choose from among the options that you and your travel agent uncover. No matter which option you elect, have your travel agent

book it

it.

will

and

Even

if you

go with one of the packages in the newspaper,

probably be commissionable

will provide the agent

your behalf Also,

You Make Your

Own

As you poke around trying should know.

First,

always

chain's national toll-free

(at

no additional

return

on

as a travel professional,

able to verily the quality

If

some

and

cost to you)

the time invested

on

your agent should be

integrity of the deal.

Reservation

to find a call

good

deal, there are several things

you

the specific hotel as opposed to the hotel

number. Quite often, the

reservationists at the

48

PartTwo

Accommodations number

national toll-free specials before

you

bargain. If

want

to extend

are

unaware of local

you inquire about corporate are

buying a

hotel's

before you check

How to

Do

Always ask about

not be reluctant to

weekend package,

and

for example,

your stay into the following week, you can often obtain

Do

corporate rate for the extra days.

least the

specials.

rates.

in,

preferably

at

your bargaining, however,

when you make your

reservations.

Evaluate a Travel Package

Hundreds of Washington package vacations are offered to the public each year. Packages should be a win-win proposition for both the buyer and the seller.

The buyer

make only one phone

has to

ing, meals, tours, attraction admissions, seller,

processing,

bulk on contract large

and even golf and

and

The

tennis.

also

buy

airfares in

broker playing the commodities market. Buying a

number of airfares

significant savings

one

addition to streamlining

billing. In

and administration, some packagers like a

just

rental car, lodg-

with the buyer only once, eliminating the need

likewise, has to deal

for separate sales, confirmations, sales,

and deal with

call

up the whole vacation: transportation,

salesperson to set

advance allows the packager to buy them

in

from posted

fares.

The same

hotel rooms. Because selling vacation packages

practice

is

an

is

at a

also applied to

efiPicient

way of doing

business,

and because the packager can often buy individual package com-

ponents

(airfare,

lodging, etc.) in bulk at discount, savings in operating

expenses realized by the

seller are

sometimes passed on to the buyer. In

addition to being convenient, such packages can be exceptional values. In

any event, that

is

the

way

it is

supposed to work.

All too often, in practice, the seller cashes in

none on

to the buyer. In

some

extras that cost the packager next to

sky-high.

As you may

on discounts and passes up with

instances, packages are loaded

nothing but

inflate the retail price

expect, the savings to be passed along to customers

evaporate.

When considering a package, sure to use. for

Whether you

them. Second,

few phone individual

calls

if

and

cost

the package price

is

deal. If the costs are

is

all

choose one that includes features you are the features or not, you will certainly pay

of greater concern than convenience, make a

what the package would

see

components

use

(airfare, rental car,

less

than the a

la carte cost,

about the same, the package

you booked its on your own. If

cost if

lodging, etc.)

the package is

is

a

good

probably worth buy-

ing just for the convenience. If

your package includes a choice of rental car or "airport transfers"

(transportation to visiting

and from the

Washington

During the weekend,

you

for the it is

don't visit the dreaded

airport), take the transfers unless

weekend and

relatively easy to get

"monument

you

are

don't plan to visit the Mall.

alley."

around by car

as

During the week,

long as

forget

it;

Tips for Business Travelers

a car if

is

definitely not the

way

do take the

to go. If you

car,

49

be sure to ask

the package includes free parking at your hotel.

Tips for Business Travelers The primary considerations imity to the zone(s)

site

for business travelers are affbrdability

and prox-

or area where you will transact your business. Identify the

where your business

will take

you on the maps on pages 8-9, and

then use the Accommodations Chart on pages 68-82 to cross-reference the

Once you have developed

hotels located in that area.

hotels that are conveniently located,

fit

a short

your budget, and

of accommodations you require, you (or your

list

of possible

offer the standard

travel agent)

can make use of

the cost-saving suggestions discussed earlier to obtain the lowest

rate.

Lodging Convenient to Washington Convention Center If

you

meeting or trade show

are attending a

at

Washington Convention

downtown Washington, where at within walking distance. From most down-

Center, look for convenient lodging in least a

town

half-dozen hotels are

hotels,

Washington Convention Center

cab or shuttle ride away. Parking it is

expensive and not

is

that convenient.

all

is

a five- to eight-minute

available at the convention center, but

We recommend that you leave

at home and use shuttles and cabs. The Washington Convention Center is about

your car

a two-and-a-half-

Metro stations. Mount Vernon Square/Convention Center, and Metro Station. The walk passes through a section of town that is safe during daylight hours. Commuting to Washington Convention Center from the suburbs or block

walk

from

nearest

the

the airports during rush hour

you want need

a

a

room

one of the

is

something to be avoided

room downtown, book at the last

early

—very

early. If you

if possible. If

screw up and

minute, try a wholesaler or reservation service, or

strategies listed below.

Convention Rates: How They Work and If you are attending a

How to Do

Better

major convention or trade show,

it is

probable that

the meeting's sponsoring organization has negotiated "convention rates"

with a number of hotels. Under a certain

number of rooms

Sometimes,

as in the case

In the event of

a large,

room

block.

arrangement, hotels agree to "block"

of a small meeting, only one hotel

is

involved.

citywide convention at Washington Convention

Center, however, almost in the

at

this

an agreed-upon price for convention-goers.

all

downtown and

airport hotels will participate

50

Accommodations

PartTwo

Because the convention sponsor brings a

of business to the

lot

city

and

number of rooms, it usually can negotiate a volume discount on the room rates, a rate that should be substantially below rack rate. The bottom line, however, is that some conventions and trade shows reserves a large

have more clout and negotiating tion sponsor

Once

may or may

a convention or trade

with participating hotels, includes

all

skill

than others. Hence, your conven-

not be able to obtain the lowest possible

it

show sponsor has completed

will

send

attendees a housing

its

rate.

negotiations list

that

the hotels serving the convention, along with the special con-

When

vention rate for each.

you

receive the housing

list,

you can com-

pare the convention rates with the rates obtainable using the strategies

covered in the previous section. If the negotiated convention rate doesn't

sound

like a

good

you can

deal,

try to reserve a

room

using a half-price

club, a consolidator, or a tour operator.

Remember, however,

of the deep discounts are available only

when

less

than

vention

Here 1.

80% occupancy,

is

are

some

tips for

Reserve

early.

meeting

sites

book

a condition that rarely prevails

beating convention

Most one

as far in

big conventions

advance

much

list

Use

if,

for

your convention's housing

on the convention

some

reason,

this guide. list

you need

some rooms, even

on page

hotel

list,

list,

compare

You might be

it

able to

that better suits your needs.

to

make

is

use-

reservations at the

in the

Book

midst of a huge conven-

on wholesalers and consolida-

45.)

a hotel

somewhat

distant

situated close to the Metro.

from the convention center but

You may

save

money on your room

and your commuting time underground

center will often be shorter than

downtown 5.

its

better that the hotel will have space available.

tion or trade show. (See our section

rate,

Get your reservation

using a half-price club. If you

minute. Local reservation agencies and consolidators almost

always control

tors

and trade shows announce

a local reservation agency or consolidator. This strategy

even

last

as possible

of hotels presented in

find a hotel not

4.

a big con-

rates:

to three years in advance.

If you've already got

with the

ful

when

well before the convention sponsor sends out

chances are

3.

many

in town.

booked

2.

that

the hotel expects to be at

if

you take

to the

convention

a cab or drive

from a

hotel.

downtown or near a Metro line. Bed and Breakfast Accommodations Ltd., at (202) 328-3510, or www.bedandbreakfastdc.com, can help you locate one. Stay in a bed and breakfast, either

1

Accommodations: Rated and Ranked

Hotel and Motel Toll-free For your convenience, we've

numbers, including for

many

TDDs

and motel

hotel

5

Numbers

listed

on the next page the

toll-free

phone

for the

Deaf)

(Telecommunication Device

chains.

Accommodations: Rated and Ranked What's Except

much

a

in

Room? of repair, and decor, most travelers do not pay

for cleanliness, state

attention to hotel rooms. There

of quality

and luxury

of course, a discernable standard

is,

that differentiates

Motel 6 from Holiday Inn, Holi-

day Inn from Marriott, and so on. In general, however, hotel guests

fail

to

some rooms are better engineered than others. Contrary to what you might suppose, designing a hotel room is (or should be) a lot more complex than picking a bedspread to match the carpet and drapes. Making the room usable to its occupants is an art, a planning discipline that combines both form and function. appreciate that

Decor and eral

room where

beyond the decor, is.

the decor

we have

seen

that are simply not well designed for stay in a hotel,

pay attention

one wants

to

spend

some

how

"livable" a hotel

human

habitation.

to the details

The

feel

comfortable and

takes the Unofficial

It

hotel room.

Here

are a

paying attention

start

Room large

Size

at

own

make

Guide researchers about 40 minutes to inspect a

may want

to

to:

While some smaller rooms is

are cozy

and well designed, a

generally preferable, especially for a stay of

three days.

to control the is

will

home.

Temperature Control, Ventilation, and Odor quiet,

next time

and design elements of

few of the things we check that you

and uncluttered room

more than

room

rooms

beautifully appointed

your room. Even more than decor, these are the things that

you

sev-

dated, garish, or even ugly. But

is

certain variables determine

In Washington, D.C.,

you

No

important, certainly.

taste are

days in a

temperature of the room.

central heating

thermostat.

The

and

air

The

The

guest should be able

best system, because

it's

so

conditioning, controlled by the room's

next best system

is

a

room module

heater

and

air

conditioner, preferably controlled by an automatic thermostat, but usually

by manually operated button

controls.

The worst system

is

central

heat and air without any sort of room thermostat or guest control.

The

vast majority of hotel

rooms have windows or balcony doors that Though there are some legitimate

have been permanently secured shut. safety

and

liability issues involved,

we

prefer

windows and balcony doors

52

PartTwo

Accommodations

Accommodations: Rated and Ranked that can be

opened

admit

to

fresh

and smoke-free, and should not

Room

Security

air.

Hotel rooms should be odor-free

feel stuffy

rooms have

Better

and

instead of the traditional lock

or damp.

locks that require a plastic card

key. Card-and-slot systems allow the

hotel to change the combination or entry code of the lock with each

guest who

room.

uses the

53

new

A burglar who has somehow acquired a room key

to a conventional lock can afford to wait until the situation

using the key to gain access.

Not

is

right before

Though

so with a card-and-slot system.

the largest hotels and hotel chains with lock and key systems usually rotate their locks

once each

year,

Many smaller

the time.

they remain vulnerable to hotel thieves

much

of

or independent properties rarely rotate their locks.

In addition to an entry lock system, the door should have a deadbolt a chain that can be locked

and preferably itself is

not

Doors should

sufficient.

also

from the

inside.

have a peephole.

A

chain by

Windows and

balcony doors should have secure locks.

Every room should have a

Safety tions,

and preferably

surface,

and shower

slide side-to-side.

and not too Noise or

stalls

clear fire instruc-

should have doors that either open outward or

Bathroom

electrical outlets

travelers

activities

should be high on the wall rails.

have been kept awake by the television, partying,

of people in the next room, or by

street outside. Better hotels are

and

smoke alarm,

close to the sink. Balconies should have sturdy, high

Most

amorous

or

fire

a sprinkler system. Bathtubs should have a nonskid

traffic

on the

designed with noise control in mind. Wall

ceiling construction are substantial, effectively screening out routine

noise. Carpets

and drapes,

in addition to being decorative, also absorb

and muffle sounds. Mattresses mounted on

stable platforms or sturdy

bed frames do not squeak even when challenged by the most passionate lovers. Televisions

enclosed in cabinets, and with volume governors,

rarely disturb guests in adjacent

rooms.

In better hotels, the air conditioning and heating system

is

well main-

tained and operates without noise or vibration. Likewise, plumbing quiet and positioned

away from the sleeping and well

to adjoining rooms, are thick

Darkness Control not quite

up way

come

Ever been in a hotel

wee hours,

sleep late

it's

Doors

fitted to better

room where

together in the middle? In

into the

where you can

area.

cities

to the hall,

is

and

keep out noise. the curtains

where many

would

visitors stay

important to have a dark, quiet room

without the morning sun blasting you out of

bed. Thick, lined curtains that close completely in the center and extend

beyond the dimensions of the window or door frame

are required. In a

well-planned room, the curtains, shades, or blinds should almost totally

block light at any time of day.

54

Accommodations

PartTwo

Poor lighting

Lighting

The

hotel rooms.

watching

is

lighting

television,

common problem

an extremely

in

American

usually adequate for dressing, relaxing, or

is

but not for reading or working. Lighting needs to be

bright over tables and desks and alongside couches or easy chairs. Since

many people read in bed, there should be a separate light for each person. A room with two queen beds should have an individual light for so

four people. Better bedside reading lights illuminate a small area, so

you want

to sleep

and someone

not be bothered by the

on

will

The worst

situation

is

a single

if

will

lamp

In addition, closet areas should be well

seen but desirable feature

is

or most lights in the

lit,

made with

often

and there should be

room when you

com-

enter.

a switch

A seldom

a bedside console that allows a guest to con-

room from

the bed.

At bare minimum, the bed(s) must be

Furnishings

is

of insufficient wattage.

light bulbs

near the door that turns on lights in the

be

far

have sufficient light to read. This deficiency

pounded by

trol all

by

you

read,

between the beds. In each bed, only the person next to the

a table

lamp

light.

up and

else prefers to stay

nonallergenic

firm. Pillows should

and, in addition to the sheets and

fillers

spread, a blanket should be provided. Bedclothes should be laundered

with a fabric

sofiiener

extra blankets

and changed

and pillows

daily. Better hotels usually

room

in the

or

a second top sheet between the blanket

There should be a dresser during a five-day chair,

stay.

A

should be provided.

large

provide

on request and sometimes use

and the spread.

enough

to

hold clothes for two people

small table with two chairs, or a desk with a

The room should be equipped with

a luggage

rack and a three-quarter- to full-length mirror.

The

television should be color, be cable-connected,

volume governor and remote

control.

It

and

ideally have a

should be mounted on a swivel

base and preferably enclosed in a cabinet. Local channels should be

posted on the

set,

and a

local

TV program guide should be supplied.

The telephone should be touchtone, conveniently situated use,

and should have, on or near

and

a rate card. Local white

hotels have

it,

easily

for bedside

understood dialing instructions

and yellow pages should be provided. Better

phones in the bath and equip room phones with long cords.

Well-designed hotel rooms usually have a plush armchair or a sleeper sofa for lounging

and reading. Better headboards

are

padded

for

com-

fortable reading in bed, and there should be a nightstand or table on each side of the bed(s). ator, a digital

Bathroom son dresses

as

refriger-

alarm clock, and a coffeemaker.

Two

counter space.

Nice extras in any hotel room include a small

sinks are better than one,

A sink outside the bath

is

and you cannot have too much

a great convenience

when one per-

another bathes. Sinks should have drains with stoppers.

Accommodations: Rated and Ranked Better bathrooms have both a tub

Tub and shower

and

a

shower with

a

55

nonsHp bottom.

controls should be easy to operate. Adjustable shower

heads are preferred.

The bath needs

to be well

lit

and should have an

exhaust fan and a guest-controlled bathroom heater. Towels should be

and fluffy, and provided in generous quantities, as should hand towels and washcloths. There should be an electrical outlet for each sink, conveniently and safely placed. Complimentary shampoo, conditioner, and lotion are a plus, as are large, soft,

robes and bathmats. Better hotels supply their bathrooms with tissues

and extra

toilet paper.

Luxurious baths feature a phone, a hair dryer,

sometimes

a small television, or even a Jacuzzi.

Vending

There should be complimentary

each

Welcome

floor.

(combs, toothpaste) machine. that have

Room To

ice

and

a drink

machine on

additions include a snack machine and a sundries

The

latter are

seldom found

in large hotels

24-hour restaurants and shops.

Ratings

separate properties according to the relative quality, tasteftilness, state

of repair, cleanliness, and

size

of their standard rooms, we have grouped

the hotels and motels into classifications denoted by

•••••

stars:

56

Accommodations

PartTwo

In addition to stars (which delineate broad categories), a numerical rating system.

and

possible rating

the difference

may

be in the same

Embassy

rated as

87 and 86,

means

83. This

The

at the

Suites

employ

and another

Marriott Tysons

the

that

Morrison House, the Corner,

for

(four stars). In the supplemental numeri-

Downtown

while the Marriott Tysons Corner

that within the four-star category, the

Downtown

are comparable,

are

rated

is

Morrison House

and that both have

rooms than the Marriott Tysons Corner.

nicer

location

where you

****

respectively,

and the Embassy

somewhat

Rooms

category

also

Numerical ratings are presented to

Morrison House and the Embassy Suites

cal ratings, the

rated

star

we

0-100, with 100 the best

is

perceive between one property

Downtown, and

Suites all

rating scale

(zero) the worst.

we

show

instance, are

Our

column

identifies the greater

Washington

area (by zone)

will find a particular property.

How the Accommodations Compare Cost estimates are based on the

hotel's published rack rates for standard rooms. Each "$" represents $50. Thus, a cost symbol of "$$$" means a

room

(or suite) at that hotel will cost

Below strictly

is

on room

ices, recreation,

about $150 a night.

parade of the nicest rooms in town. We've focused

a hit

quality

and excluded any consideration of location,

or amenities. In

can be had for the same

some

instances, a one- or

two-room

you used previous editions of this guide, you may notice of the ratings and rankings have changed. These changes

new

properties,

well as guest

as

improved maintenance and housekeeping

A

failure to properly

suite

price or less than that of a hotel room.

If

inclusion of

serv-

room

that

many

reflect the

renovations or

in previously listed properties.

maintain guest rooms or a lapse in housekeeping

standards can negatively affect the ratings. Finally, before letter

We

we

you begin

to

shop for a

received from a couple in

cancelled our

room

Hot

hotel, take a

hard look

at this

Springs, Arkansas:

reservations to follow the advice in your book [and

reserved a hotel room highly ranked by the Unofficial Guide]. We wanted inexpensive, but clean grim, It

and

depressing.

I

and cheerful.We got inexpensive, but disappointed

really felt

was the pits.That was the one

real piece

your book! The room spoiled the holiday for

Needless to to

our reader.

say, this letter

Our

intentions and the

room

of information

me

we

I

provide our readers.

in every hotel.

needed from

aside from our touring.

as unsettling to us as the

most conscientious

[also] dirty,

your advice and the room.

integrity as travel journalists, after

quality of the information

inspect every

was

in

bad room was

all, is

based on the

Even with the best of

research, however,

What we do,

we cannot

in statistical terms,

is

take

Accommodations: Rated and Ranked a sample:

We

check out several rooms selected

and base our

ratings

at

random

in

57

each hotel

and rankings on those rooms. The inspections

are

conducted anonymously and without the knowledge of the management. Although

it is

randomly inspect ticular hotel.

unusual,

it is

Another

possibility

hotel are representative but that that

is

inferior.

certainly possible that the

rooms we

are not representative of the majority of rooms at a par-

When we

is

that the

rooms we inspect

by bad luck a reader

is

in a given

room we dis-

assigned a

rechecked the hotel our reader disliked,

covered that our rating was correctly representative but that he and his wife had unfortunately been assigned to one of a small

number of thread-

bare rooms scheduled for renovation.

The key to avoiding disappointment is to snoop around in advance. We recommend that you ask for a photo of a hotel's standard guest room before

you book, or

at least get a

Be forewarned, however, photo in

their

that

promotional

room may not resemble

travel

agent

was

up

last

ask

how

hotel's

promotional brochure.

hotel chains use the

literature for

guest

call,

copy of the

some

the brochure photo.

old the property

same guest room

hotels in the chain; a specific

all

is

When

room that does not moved to another room.

renovated. If you arrive and are assigned a

to the brochure's promises,

demand

to be

you or your

and when your guest room

HOW THE ACCOMMODATIONS COMPARE

live

58

PartTwo

Accommodations

HOW THE ACCOMMODATIONS COMPARE (continued) Star

Accommodations Sofitel Lafayette

Zone

Rating

Quality

Rating

Cost $=$50

Accommodations: Rated and Ranked

HOW THE ACCOMMODATIONS COMPARE (continued)

59

60

PartTwo

Accommodations

HOW THE ACCOMMODATIONS COMPARE (continued)

Accommodations: Rated and Ranked

HOW THE ACCOMMODATIONS COMPARE (continued)

61

62

PartTwo

Accommodations

ACCOMMODATIONS

LISTED BY Star

Accommodations

Zone

3;

Rating

Downtown

Best Western Capitol

Hill

Capitol Hilton

Connfort Inn

Downtown

Four Points Sheraton

Downtown

Grand Hyatt Washington Hamilton

Crowne

Plaza

Hay-Adams Hotel Hilton Garden Inn

Holiday Inn Capitol

Holiday inn

Downtown

Holiday Inn on the

Hotel Monaco Hotel Washington

Hill

ZONE

(continued)

Quality

Rating

Cost $=$S0

Accommodations: Rated and Ranked

ACCOMMODATIONS

LISTED BY

ZONE

(continued)

63

64

PartTwo

Accommodations

ACCOMMODATIONS

LISTED BY

ZONE (continued)

Accommodations: Rated and Ranked

ACCOMMODATIONS

LISTED BY

ZONE

Quality

Zone

Accommodations Zone

/

/:

Comfort

Virginia

Inn

Suburbs

(continued)

Washington Gateway

Rating

(continued)

Star

Rating

Cost $=$50

65

66

PartTwo

Accommodations

ACCOMMODATIONS LISTED BY ZONE (continued) Quality

Zone

Accommodations

Zone

1

1:

Virginia

Suburbs

(continued)

Sheraton National Sheraton Pentagon South

Sheraton Premiere Tysons Corner Sheraton Suites Alexandria

Washington National Airport Hilton

Washington Suites Alexandria

Rating

• •*l/2

Star Rating

Cost $=$50

Accommodations: Rated and Ranked

TOP

30

BEST DEALS IN WASHINGTON, D.C.

67

68

PartTwo

Accommodations Information Chart

Accommodations American

Inn of

Bethesda

Star Rating

Quality Rating

Street

Zone Address

American

Phone

Fax

Reservations

Rack Rate

(301)

(301)

(800)

$$$+

656-9300

656-2907

323-7081

Toll-free

Local

(202)

745-3600

New

Carrollton

No. of

On-site Dining

Inn of Bethesda-Courtyard

Rooms 76

•

69

Pool

70

PartTwo

Accommodations Information Chart

Accommodations

Courtyard Rosslyn-Georgetown Inn Toll-free

Rack

No. of

Phone

Fax

Reservations

Rate

Rooms

(703)

(703)

(800)

$$$$-

62

528-2222

528-1027

321-2211

Local

(202)

332-9300

On-site Dining

71

Pool

72

PartTwo

Accommodations Information Chart

Accommodations

Governor's House-Holiday Inn Rosslyn

Local

Phone

73

74

PartTwo

Accommodations Information Chart

Accommodations Holiday Inn Select

Bethesda

Star Rating

Quality Rating

Street

Zone Address

Holiday Inn Select Bethesda-Llncoln Suites

Local

Phone (301)

652-2000

Fax

Toll-free

Rack

No. of

Reservations

Rate

Rooms

On-site Dining

75

Pool

76

PartTwo

Accommodations Information Chart

Accommodations -Loews

L'Enfant Plaza

Star Rating

Quality Rating

Street

Zone Address

Loews L'Enfant Plaza-Red Roof Local

Phone

Inn

Downtown

77

78

PartTwo

Accommodations Information Chart

Accommodations Renaissance

Mayflower Hotel

Star Rating

Quality Rating

Street

Zone Address

Renaissance Mayflower Hotel-Washington Marriott Hotel

Local

Phone

79

80

PartTwo

Accommodations Information Chart

Accommodations

3

Washington National Airport Hilton-Wyndham Washington Toll-free

Local

Phone

Fax

Reservations

(703)

(703)

(800)

418-6800

418-3763

HILTONS

(202)

(202)

(800)

842- 300

371-9602

424-1140

1

(800)

(202)

(202)

898-9000

789-42

(703)

(703)

(877)

370-9600

370-0467

736-2500

(202)

(202)

(877)

333-8060

955-5765

736-2500

(202)

(202)

(800)

232-7000

332-8436

222-TREE

(202)

(202)

(800)

965-2300

337-7915

424-2736

(202)

(202)

(800)

293-2100

293-0641

325-3535

1

Rack Rate

No. of

$$$-

386

$$$$-

339

$$$-

800

$$$+

225

$$$$$$-

239

$$$$$-

219

$$$$-

235"

$$$$$$H

206

$$$$$$

263

$$$$$$$$-

340

Rooms

228-9898

(202)

(202)

(888)

429-0100

429-9759

625-5144

(202)

(202)

(800)

628-9100

637-7326

327-0200

(202)

(202)

(800)

483-7700

332-4547

247-3064

(202)

(202)

(800)

775-0800

331-9491

WYNDHAM

(202)

(202)

(800)

429-1700

785-0786

WYNDHAM

$$$-

43

$$$-

353

$$$$

400

On-site Dining

81

Pool

Part Three

Visiting

Washington

on Business

Not All Visitors Are Headed

for the

While most of the more than 21 million people

each year are tourists, not everyone visiting the city has tered

around the National Mall. In

fact,

Mall

who come

to

Washington

an itinerary cen-

almost 1.5 million

visitors are

convention-goers attending shows at the Washington Convention Center, located in

downtown Washington.

States government, the

around the world

who

city

In addition, as the seat of the United

draws another 4.5 million

fly in to

visitors

from

conduct business with both federal

agencies and a wide array of private organizations headquartered here.

The

city

is

also a center of higher education.

The

District

is

home

to

George Washington University, Georgetown University, American University, Howard University, and the Catholic Universit)^ of America,

among others. As

a result,

college administrators,

In to

many on

attracts a lot

of visiting academics,

their families.

ways, the problems facing business visitors on their

Washington don't

intent

Washington

and students and

differ

much from

first trip

the problems of folks in

hitting the major tourist attractions. People visiting

town

on business

that's convenient, want to avoid the worst of the same problems getting around an unfamiliar city, must figure out how to buy a Metro ticket, and want to know the locations of the best restaurants. This book can help.

need to locate a hotel city's traffic,

face the

For the most part, though, business visitors aren't nearly

about the timing of their destination.

spring and

visit as folks

While we advise fall,

who

that the best times for

the necessities of business

—

as flexible

pick Washington as a vacation

may

coming

to

D.C.

are

dictate that January

when you pull into town or, even worse, early April, when mobbed for the Japanese cherry blossom festivities.

the city

is is

83

84

s

g

88

PartThree

Visiting Washington

on Business

A CONVENTION CENTER CALENDAR The

city's

considerable convention business (1.5 million delegates in

hard to get a hotel room in and around the

2004) can make

it

the following

of major 2005 and 2006 convention dates to plan your

trip to

list

Washington.

2005

Dates

city.

Use

A Convention

1

-24

Congressional Black Caucus

5,000

SepL 26-28

American College of Emergency Physicians

Oct. 3-5

Association of the U.S. Army

Oct. 8-

1

American Academy of

I

89

Attendees

Convention/Event

Dates Sept. 2

Center Calendar

5.000

20,000

Pediatrics

Convention

10.000

Oct. 17-20

Transcatheter Cardiovascular Therapeutics

Oct. 30-Nov. 2

Water Environment Federation

18.000

Nov. 13-16

Society for Neuroscience

26.000

Dec. 4-^

American Epilepsy Society Annual Meeting

3.000

Dec. 7- 10

National Association for the Education of

12,000

Dec. 23-26

Parkinsons Disease Foundation

12,000

Young Children

World

5.000

Conference

2006

Attendees

Convention/Event

Dates

Mar 7-9

FOSE

60,000

Mar 8-23

Association of Peri Operative Registered

14,000

1

Nurses

Apr 2-5

American Association of Cancer Research

May 8-

American College of

1

OB-GYNS

10.000 14.000

May 12-14

American Red Cross

5.000

June 10-12

American Diabetes Association

8.000

June 25-28

Society for

Human Resource Management

15.000

July

2-6

Youth for Christ

20.000

July

9-15

American Cancer Society

25.000

July

25-28

MassMutual Leaders Conference 2006

3.000

Aug. 14-18

Gospel Music Workshop of America

6,000

Sept. 6-7

Affordable Meetings Exhibition

3,000

Sept.

6-9

Congressional Black Caucus Foundation

5,000

20.000

Sept. 15-17

Natural Products Expo East

SepL 28-30

American Academy of Family Physicians

17,000

Oct. 8-1

Association of the U.S. Army

20.000

Nov.

1

I

9-2

Dec. 1-2

1

American Academy of Religion

9.500

National Council for the Social Studies

4.500

90

Visiting Washington

PartThree

much

Yet

Guide

is

on Business

of the advice and information presented in the Unofficial

as valuable to business visitors as

it is

to tourists.

As

our

for

rec-

who knows? Perhaps ommendations on seeing the city's many sights you'll be able to squeeze a morning or an afternoon out of your busy .

schedule, grab this book, attractions that

each

and spend

draw the other

.

few hours exploring some of the

a

7 million people

1

.

who

visit

Washington

year.

The Washington Convention Center In the

fall

of 1998, ground was broken for a

new $800

million Washing-

ton Convention Center, located two blocks from the existing center at

Mount Vernon

Square.

The

which opened

building,

in

2003, has more

than 2 million square feet of space, including 725,000 square feet of exhibit space, 500,000 square feet of contiguous space,

rooms

totaling

150,000 square

feet. It's

and 70 meeting

the largest building in

D.C.

The Washington Convention Center is a four-level structure located seven blocks from the White House on a 17-acre site bounded by Mount The center contains Vernon Place, Ninth, N, and Seventh Streets,

NW

56 meeting rooms (some 151,000 square square

feet,

provides

all

feet,

divisible),

3 ballrooms, and 5 exhibit halls with

194,000 square

and 119,000 square

feet

feet,

128,000 square

of space,

feet,

respectively.

111,000

The Center

food and beverage services on the premises, including catered

meals and brand restaurants

like

Wolfgang Puck's and Starbucks.

For both exhibitors and attendees, the Washington Convention Center 1

is

an excellent

site for a

million visitors in

up

their exhibits

its first

with a

meeting or trade show, and attracted nearly year.

Large and small exhibitors alike can set

minimum

of effort. Forty- two loading docks and

huge bay doors make unloading and loading quick and simple displays arriving are

unloaded in the same

carried or

area, entering

from

wheeled directly to the exhibit

meeting rooms are well marked and easy to call

for large

by truck. Smaller displays transported in vans and

(202) 789-1600, (800) 368-9000 or

cars

N Street. Equipment can be area.

The

find.

For more information,

visit

exhibit areas

and

www.dcconvention.com.

Lodging within Walking Distance of the Convention Center While

participants in citywide conventions lodge

all

over town, a couple

of hotels are within easy walking distance of the Convention Center: the

Grand Hyatt (phone (202) 582-1234) and the Hamilton Crowne Plaza (phone (202) 682-0111). The Grand Hyatt, directly across the street from the Center, features 900 rooms and 65 suites. The Hamilton

The Washington Convention Center Crowne

Plaza,

two blocks away

at

91

Metro Center, has 318 rooms, each

supplied with a minibar, and 40 suites.

Other hotels within

a

few blocks of the Washington Convention Cen-

ter are:

Hotel Marriott at Metro Center

Rooms

Suites

Distance

92

PartThree

Visiting Washington

on Business

347-4656. For a quiet business lunch, the Old Ebbitt Grill Street, (202)

347-4800, should

fill

the

bill.

For more exotic

at

675 15th

tastes, try

the

Moroccan fare at Marrakesh at 617 New York Avenue, (202) 393-9393, or the Burmese cuisine at Burma, 740 6th Street, (202) 638-1280. For fast food,

Shops

NW,

at

choose from Hardee's, McDonald's, Taco Bell Express, and the National Place, a three-level mall located at

that features a food court.

1

3th and F

Streets,

Part Four

Arriving and Getting Oriented

Coming

into the City

By Car If

you

drive,

you

most

will

on one of

likely arrive

three freeways: Inter-

state 95 from the north, 1-95 from the south, or 1-70 from the northwest.

Washington

Other routes that converge

in

links with 1-81 in Virginias

Shenandoah

are 1-66

Valley),

from the west (which

US

50 (which hooks up

US 301, and Maryland's Eastern Shore), and Parkway, which parallels 1-95 between the Washington Baltimorethe

with Annapolis, Maryland,

two

cities'

beltways.

All these routes have ton's

one

common

link:

They connect with Washing-

Capital Beltway, a ribbon of concrete encircling the

introduction to

how

city.

Now for an

unfriendly D.C. freeways can be to unsuspecting

motorists: Part of the Beltway

is

numbered both

and 1-495. Why?

1-95

Since 1-95 doesn't cut directly through Washington (the

way

Richmond

rerouted along

to the south

and Baltimore

the southern half of the Beltway.

only the

first

Drivers

It's

to the north),

it's

it

does in

quite confusing to visitors, and

coming from

the north

and 1-70 and headed downtown

should take the Beltway to the Baltimore-Washington Parkway and south. Bear right onto straight to

From

Our map

into

it

D.C. near the center of the

destination. If you need to

then.

Both get you

tourist

advice to drivers unfamiliar with Washington

home and

And

make

don't try to fight the

a

exit

goes

either 1-66 or 1-395 (what

crosses inside the Beltway).

before you leave

it

Station.

and west, motorists can take

1-95 becomes after

a

New York Avenue where the Parkway splits;

downtown, near Union

the south

Potomac and

it's

of many Washington driving horrors you'll encounter.

careftilly trace

phone

call

across the

hubbub. is

to

sit

down with

out the route to your

or two for directions, do

weekday rush hour

traffic

it

(6:30-9:30

a.m. and 3-7 p.m.).

93

94

Part Four

Arriving and Getting Oriented

By Plane While Washington

Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport

major

cially has three

domestic

airports, this

is

the

far for

on the Virginia

side of

a few miles south of the city

flyers, just

the Potomac. Don't ask a friend to pick you up: Parking

cramped

facility.

A

offi-

most convenient by

is

terrible at this

courtesy van service can whisk you into town from

the Virginia side of the Potomac.

A

$1 billion, l-miUion-square-foot main terminal that opened in the

summer of 1 997 improved

National's notorious reputation as a cramped,

The

hard-to-get-in-and-out-of airport.

terminal features seamless con-

nection between ground transportation, parking, buses, and D.C.'s subway.

It

also boasts a

food court, 32 elevators, 26 escalators, 12 baggage

carousels, dozens of retail stores,

across the

Potomac

River.

and

a great

view of the nation's capital

Along with 6,500 new parking

new

spaces,

roadways, and expanded curb space and travel lanes (8 lanes for lowerlevel

baggage claims, 5 lanes for upper-level ticket counters),

facility

makes things much

this

newest

easier for travelers.

Nearly 5,000 parking spaces are housed in the parking garage directly across

from the terminal and

moving

are reached via

Metro mezzanines connect D.C.'s subway system pedestrian bridges spanning the airport's roads. tion centers located

Metro,

Cab

taxi service, fares to

on the baggage claim

level

Two

sidewalks.

two

to the terminal via

Two ground

transporta-

provide information on

SuperShuttle vans, and rental

cars.

nearby downtown Washington are reasonable ($9-$ 19).

SuperShuttle shared-service vans leave every destination in the

D.C.

to

5 (or fewer) minutes to

any

range from $18-$22 to any address in

area. Fares

Washington and from $12

1

more than $30

in the Virginia

land suburbs. Three SuperShuttle ticket counters are located

and Mary-

at

National;

look for the "Washington Flyer/SuperShuttle" signs posted throughout the airport. For

more information,

and

exact fares,

reservations for

VAN (258-3826) or go

to

Washington-Dulles International Airport

Foreign

at

Dulles, although AirTran (formerly Valujet)

and Western

return pick-up to National,

(800) BLUE

call

www.supershuttle.com.

increased the airport's domestic traffic

few

years. Reflecting that

nal,

which doubled the

growth

size

is

flights

arrive

Pacific

volume considerably

have

in the last

DuUes's expansion of the main termi-

of the building to

1

.

1

million square

feet.

Yet

Dulles remains the least convenient of the three airports serving Washington. Located in the rolling Virginia countryside

Dulles

is

about a 45-minute drive from downtown

hour. Use the Dulles Access Road,

way and

1-66.

beyond the suburbs,

—

longer during rush

which connects with the Capital

Belt-

95

96

97

@(§)

i

Coming

into the City

99

the gate, go to the lower level and claim your baggage at the bag-

From

gage carousels.

Then proceed out of the

terminal on the ground level to

you can meet someone picking you up or find ground transportation out of the airport. The Washington Flyer shuttle to the West Falls Church Metro station leaves about every 30 minutes weekdays the curb, where

($8 one-way, $14 round-trip) and every 30 minutes on weekends;

22-minute bus will take

trip to the

you anywhere

subway

in the

about a 30-minute wait and

it's

a

station. SuperShuttle shared-ride vans

D.C. metropolitan area; there's usually range from $7 to more than $40 to the

fares

$22 for the first person and $10 for each addimore information, exact fares, and reservations for pickup for your return trip to Dulles, call SuperShuttle at (800) BLUE VAN (258-3826) or go to www.supershuttle.com. Cab fare to downtown

downtown

area (typically

tional person). For

D.C. can run more than $50 one-way. Baltimore- Washington International

of Baltimore's Inner Harbor,

is

BWI,

located 10 miles south

about a 50-minute drive from down-

more time during rush hour. From the which are located next the ground-level doors. If someone is picking you up, they can meet

town Washington; allow

lots

gate area, descend to the luggage pickup belts, to

you outside the baggage claim area at the curb. SuperShuttle offers van service to the Washington Convention Center in downtown Washington. Vans leave on the hour from 6 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily; the fare is $31 per person one-way (children under age 6 ride

free).

Tickets are sold at

on the lower level in Pier C. No reservations are required for service from the airport to downtown D.C; for reservations for the return trip to BWI or for more information, call (800) BLUE VAN (258-3826) or go to www.supershuttle.com. Cab the ground transportation desk

fares to

BWI

downtown D.C.

start at

offers train service to

commuter

trains

around $55 one-way. In addition,

Washington's Union Station via

MARC

on weekdays (cheap) and Amtrak on weekends and

holidays (expensive).

By Train Union Station

Located near Capitol

Amtrak connecting point

in

Hill,

Union

Station

Washington. From here,

is

trains

the central

go out

all

over the country. For most routes you can choose either a speedy Acela Express, Metroliner or a regular train. train station,

not so

fast!

Once

inside the

newly restored

you can jump on the Metro, located on the lower

The

station itself

is full

of delights

—

level.

But

small shops, cafes, and

even a theater complex. To reach cabs, limousines, buses, and open-air tour trolleys, walk through

main entrance.

Union

Station's

magnificent

Main

Hall to the

100

Arriving and Getting Oriented

Part Four

A Geographic Overview of Washington City and Two States Washington, D.C.,

is

a city of

more than 500,000 people

located near

the southern end of the East Coast megalopolis stretching from Boston to Richmond. George Washington chose the city's site, where the Ana-

Potomac, upriver from

costia River flows into the

his

Mount Vernon

plantation. Maryland and Virginia donated wedges of land from both sides

of the Potomac to make the 100-square-mile diamond called the

District of

Columbia. In

1

846, Virginia snatched

the planned city of Washington

the

river's east

sits

lands back; today,

its

on the former Maryland acreage on

bank.

Washington proper

surrounded by bustling, congested suburbs.

is

Across the Potomac, Arlington County, the town of Alexandria, and Fair-

County crowd D.C. from the south and west, while the Maryland Montgomery and Prince George's surround Washington's northwestern and eastern borders. All the suburbs surrounding D.C. are

fax

counties of

experiencing exponential growth. Rockville, for example, a few miles

north of the D.C.

line,

become Maryland's

has

second-largest

city, after

Baltimore.

Washington's most important geographical feature, the Potomac River, is

a natural

impediment

to

few bridges that cross the

both river

tourists

and suburban commuters. The

from Virginia

to

Washington

are rush-

hour bottlenecks. While driving across the border to the Maryland suburbs

is

nominally

government and

easier,

D.C.'s intense traffic and concentration of

tourist sites near the river

make

for a long trek into

Maryland.

D.C/s Street Plan While Washington's reputation deserved

—

Downtown

fairly logical.

streets

as a

tough

at least for first-time visitors streets are

scheme

across the grid diagonally

of Washington

Our advice:

are streets

and meet

the

city's

around layout

streets

named

named

An 1

is

well

actually

going east-west. after states,

The

which cut

in traffic circles that are the nemesis

drivers.

Ignore the state-named streets on your

map and you'll

cover the underlying logic of the system. If your destination a street

in

is

arranged in a grid, with numbered

running north-south and lettered

loose cannons in the

city to get

—

named

after a state, the

is,

dis-

in fact,

underlying grid of number- and

on

letter-

you there and can even help you locate your block. popular destination for both tourists and power seekers is

streets will get

example:

A

600 Pennsylvania Avenue,

NW

Since this well-known street snakes a

A

Geographic Overview of Washington

1

1

course from the poor neighborhoods of Southeast Washington through

downtown and into Georgetown, pinpointing an exact address is tough. The clue, however, is in the street address: The White House is near the intersection of Pennsylvania Avenue and 16th Street. Note: The two blocks of Pennsylvania Avenue immediately in front of the White House are closed to vehicles.

NAVIGATING THE CITY

. .

|

Confused by Washington's quadrant street addresses

—Northeast, Southeast,

Northwest, Southwest? Relax. Virtually everything that interests tourists

is

in

Northwest. If it

looks

like you'll

be

riding

Metro twice or more a

worry about

pass for $6.50, and you won't have to

day.

figuring

purchase a one-day

out fares

(you'll

save

money, too).

parking If

i

Georgetown or Adams-Morgan on your

Is

is

beyond lousy

—so take

itinerary?

Metro doesn't go there,

a cab instead.They're cheap and plentiful

you ignore our advice and drive to Washington, do yourself a

your route

favor:

in

D.C.

map out

advance, avoid rush hour on weekdays, and arrive early on

in

1

weekends.

Finding Your Way Once you

hang of

get the

snap. You'll have a head

arranged.

it,

you know the

start if

The roughly diamond-shaped

south, east,

way around Washington

finding your

cit)^'s

is

how D.C.

a is

four corners point north,

Washington

west. Inside the diamond,

and

basics of

is

laid

out in a

rectilinear, gridlike plan and divided into four pie-wedge-shaped quad-

rants:

Northwest (NW), Northeast (NE), Southwest (SW), and South-

east (SE); in the center

of the pie

the quadrants and running

North Capitol

Street, East

What happened

to

from the Capitol

to the

in

is

the U.S. Capitol building. Separating

compass directions from the Capitol

West Capitol Potomac

Street?

It's

the Mall, which runs west

River.

Within each quadrant, numbered streets

are

Capitol Street, and South Capitol Street.

run north-south, and lettered

streets

run east-west. Addresses on lettered

streets give a clue to the

num-

bered cross street at the end of the block. For example, the National Building

Museum

4th and 5th Surprise:

one

at

Streets,

401 F

Street,

NW,

is

located

on F

Street

between

NW.

Washington has four

for each quadrant.

As

First Streets, four

a result, addresses

E

Streets,

and

so on,

must bear designations such

as

NW to prevent utter confiasion. The good news for short-term

is

that they can virtually ignore the quadrants: virtually

all

visitors

tourist sights,

102

Part Four

Arriving and Getting Oriented

and

hotels, restaurants,

nightlife are in

Northwest Washington. North-

and Southeast Washington, with the exception of the middle-class enclave of Capitol Hill, are predominantly poor and less commercially east

developed, while tiny Southwest

Avenues are named sin, etc.)

is

mostly middle-class.

after states (Connecticut, Massachusetts,

and cut diagonally

oughfares and do a good job of disrupting the

and

the avenues meet at circles Dupont

Circle

Washington

(New Hampshire and and Rhode

Scott Circle (Massachusetts

Here's a

major thor-

traffic pattern.

Downtown,

Island

rundown of some major

New

are:

Hampshire Avenues)

Pennsylvania Avenues)

MountVernon Square (Massachusetts and

the

Wiscon-

are

most noteworthy of which

squares, the

(Connecticut, Massachusetts, and

Circle

Some

across the street grid.

Avenues, and 16th Street)

New York Avenues)

roads that visitors will encounter in

city:

Pennsylvania Avenue runs into

from Southeast and Capitol

Hill

through

downtown and

Georgetown. The two blocks of Pennsylvania Avenue immediately

the White

House are closed to

in

front of

vehicles.

Georgetown and

leads north to the Maryland suburbs.

Wisconsin Avenue starts

in

Connecticut Avenue runs

from Lafayette Square,

in

front of the White House,

through Dupont Circle, past the National Zoo, and into Chevy Chase, Maryland. 16th Street,

NW, heads due north from

and merges with Georgia Avenue

K

Street,

NW,

Constitution

is

a major east-west

in

the White

House through Adams-Morgan

the Maryland suburbs.

downtown

business artery.

and Independence Avenues run east-west along the

NewYork Avenue

is

a

Washington and turns 14th Street, SW,

is

a

Mall.

major artery that runs from the White House to Northeast into

US 50 and

the Baltimore-Washington Parkway.

major point of egress to and from the Virginia suburbs.

Massachusetts Avenue runs from Union Station through

Dupont

Circle,

up Embassy

Row, and past Washington National Cathedral and American University on

its

way

to Maryland.

Things the Natives Already The Metro:An

Know

Introduction

The first section of Washington's clean, modern, safe, and efficient subway system opened in 1976, just in time for the nation's bicentennial celebrations.

As the

five-line

system has expanded over the years, the rave

reviews keep coming. All of the stations follow the beige color scheme, with high, curved ceilings

same brown-and-

made of square

concrete

panels that fade into the distance. Monotonous, maybe, but the stations are safe

and make the

lives

of visitors infinitely

easier.

Know

Things the Natives Already

The

103

and

trains themselves are clean, quiet, carpeted, virtually crime-free,

air-conditioned.

They run

Morgan), the Metro

delivers visitors within a comfortable

of everywhere they might want to go inside the

Even

if,

like a lot

city

Adams-

walking distance

and into the suburbs.

of Americans, you're not comfortable with the idea of

on public transportation, Washington provides

relying

nec-

isn't really

exceptions (trendy Georgetown and hip

With two notable

essary.

so often that carrying a schedule

a strong argu-

car. The ment for seriously reconsidering your love affair excuse not to use There's really no Metro system is easy, even fun, to ride. how. chapter on it. Later, in Part Five, we include a

with your

Taxis Washington's cab

but the

fares are low,

fare

system

is

weird: Fares are

based on zones, not a meter. You can go 2 blocks from one zone to

another and be charged more than for a 12-block ride within one zone.

know

helps to

It

the zones.

Washington has more cabs per capita than any other American

city.

But

other than for schlepping your luggage to and from National Airport or

Union

Station, or dining out in subway-free

Georgetown and Adams-

are superfluous, thanks to the Metro.

Morgan, cabs

Take the

train instead.

In our experience, Washington cabbies are polite and friendly. Yet

good idea driver

beginning of the

to ask for a receipt at the

know

that you're not

Most

sight-seeing attractions

strange hows, whats,

more

a

some inexperienced out-of-towner and you

many

won't tolerate being charged for a roundabout route through zones.

it's

ride, just to let the

and wheres of

and

hotels are in

taxi travel in

D.C.

Zone

1.

(The

are discussed in

detail in Part Five.)

Traffic If at all possible, avoid driving

arrive

by

car,

make

during your stay in Washington. If you

sure your hotel has parking

and

is

either within walk-

ing distance to a Metro station (more on that in Part Five) or offers con-

venient shuttles to one. Park your car and, with few exceptions, don't

plan on moving

it

until

you

Here's why: Driving in

your car near major tourist hopeless. vards,

The

city

is

and one-way

leave.

Washington

a bewildering streets that

is

infuriating,

and trying

and government buildings

sites

mix of traffic

circles,

is

to

park

usually

diagonal boule-

change direction depending on the time

of day. To make matters worse, some avenues change names for no apparent reason.

And

regular traffic

One

the volume of traffic? The Washington column "Dr. Gridlock" for nothing.

last note: You'll see a lot

license plates imprinted with the

a car

is

of cars with cute

Post do^sni call

red, white,

word "Diplomatic." The

associated with a foreign embassy

its

and blue

driver of such

and has diplomatic immunity

1

04

Arriving and Getting Oriented

Part Four

from many

local laws

—including

wide berth. (We cover driving

in

traffic violations.

more

Give these

cars a

detail in Part Five.)

The Neighborhoods Arguably, Washington

the

is

most important

city in the world.

When

most people think of D.C., they conjure up an image of the Mall, anchored by the U.S. Capitol at the east end and the Lincoln Memorial

on the

On

other.

its

end alone, the Mall

east

museums and attractions. In with the White House just to While

there's

much to

see

the center

is

features at least

1 1

major

the Washington

Monument,

who

don't get be-

the north.

and do on the Mall,

visitors

the two-mile strip of green are missing a lot of what this vibrant, in-

yond

ternational

has

city

to

brick sidewalks

offer:

front of

in

colonial-era row houses in Georgetown, the bohemian

Morgan,

townhouses and mansions near Dupont

stately

cafes

charming of Adams-

Circle, the glitter

and overflowing street life in the "new downtown" along K Street, NW. At the very least, a foray off the Mall can elevate your trip beyond the level of an educational grade-school

and

field trip

give

you

a taste of the lively city

itself All the neighborhoods that follow are safe for visitors to explore

on

foot, except

where noted. For more

on zones,

details

see page 7,

"Geographic Zones."

The Southwest Waterfront

A

(in

Zone

fascinating array of private yachts

front area, a stretch along restaurants, fresh fish

I)

on view

Maine Avenue

in Washington's water-

that features marinas, seafood

and the Wharf Seafood Market, where

and Chesapeake Bay

Here's where

Potomac

is

you can take

Spirit.

It's

delicacies

such

visitors

as oysters

a scenic river cruise to

easy to get to the waterfront:

can sample

on the half shell.

Mount Vernon on

Take the subway

the

to the

Waterfront Metro station.

Capitol Hill

(in

Zone

2)

The neighborhood surrounding

the Capitol

is

a

mix of

residential

and

commercial, with plenty of restored townhouses and trendy bars. Called

"The

Hill"

by

natives, here congressional staffers,

and poor people commingle

—sometimes not

urban homesteaders,

so successfully: Street crime

can be a problem. Blocks can change character abruptly from one end to the other, but

if you

Downtown

(in

don't

Zone

wander

far

from the Capitol

itself you'll

be okay.

3)

Directly north of the Mall

is

"old

downtown," an

area undergoing a ren-

Washington Convention Center and the popInternational Spy Museum. It's a neighborhood full of department

aissance symbolized by the ular

stores,

government

office buildings (including the FBI), shops, street

Things the Natives Already

Know

105

vendors, hotels, restaurants, two Smithsonian museums. Ford's Theatre,

Chinatown, and the Washington Convention Center. To the west

a tiny is

"new downtown," the gUttery

glass

and

buildings where

steel office

D.C.'s legions of lobbyists and lawyers do their thing. Both areas offer

of choices for shopping, dining, and sight-seeing.

visitors plent)'

Foggy Bottom

Zone

(in

4)

Located west of the White House, Foggy Bottom got

swampy

land on which

it

was

Today,

built.

it's

home

to

its

name from

ton University, the U.S. Department of State ("Foggy Bottom" nalese for "State"), the

Kennedy Center, and

the

George Washingis

jour-

the Watergate. Closer to the

Mall, massive government office complexes such as the Department of the Interior

and the Federal Reserve crowd the White House.

Georgetown

A

(in

Zone

5)

long before Washington was

river port

built,

epitome of swank. From a distance, Georgetown able by filled

its

skyline of spires.

traffic

An

Metro

congestion

is

is

immediately

now

the

identifi-

The neighborhood of restored townhouses

with crowded bars and shops, and the

into the night.

Georgetown

streets pulse

with crowds

is

late

overflow of suburban teens on weekends makes for

even by Washington standards; lack of a

that's intense,

station only

makes

worse. Georgetown University marks the

it

The Chesapeake & Ohio Canal and its Georgetown and follow the Potomac River upstream for 184 miles to Cumberland, Maryland. When you've had enough of the city, rent a bike and see how far you can get. neighborhood's western edge.

famous towpath begin

in

Adams-Morgan (in Zone 6) An ethnic neighborhood with a Adams-Morgan

African,

of

after the price

real estate

and 1980s. While

monuments, shops, isn't

is

it

zoomed around Dupont Circle in the 1970s much in the way of large museums or

doesn't offer

the neighborhood

and nightclubs. Parking,

Dupont

Circle (in

Circle

is

Zone

is

full

alas, is a

served by the Metro. Don't

Dupont

heavy emphasis on the Hispanic and

where young and cool bohemians migrated

let

of ethnic restaurants, eclectic severe problem:

Adams-Morgan

that stop you; take a cab.

6)

the center of one of the

city's

most fashionable neighbor-

hoods, where you'll find elegantly restored townhouses, boutiques, restaurants, cafes, bookstores,

and

art galleries.

(along Massachusetts Avenue) leads past cellories, as well as

House, the Center.

some of Washington's

Phillips Collection,

You can

A

stroll

down Embassy Row

sumptuous embassies and chanbest visitor attractions:

Woodrow Wilson House, and

Anderson

the Islamic

recognize an embassy by the national coat-of-arms or

flag;

1

06

Arriving and Getting Oriented

Part Four

a pack of reporters

has erupted

and

somewhere

Rock Creek Park It's

TV cameras may indicate that international unrest in the world.

Zone

(in

7)

not a neighborhood but a managed forest in the heart of Washington

well worth

mountain

away

knowing about. Hikers, joggers, in-line skaters, and anyone wishing an escape from the summer,

here. In the

Upper Northwest Here's

equestrians, city

bikers,

(in

can get

ten degrees cooler than the rest of the

it's

Zone

city.

7)

where the Washington National Cathedral, the National Zoo, the

Hillwood Museum, the

city's

Without

zens are found.

and

best private schools,

clear boundaries to separate

its

wealthiest

citi-

them, Tenleytown,

Glover Park, Woodley Park, and Cleveland Park are

full

of Victorian

houses that are homes to members of Congress, rich lobbyists, and attorneys. Attention, joggers: This

Anacostia

The

(in

city's first

Zone

for a nighttime run.

9)

suburb today

shootings, drug dealing, called

where you go

is

sits

in the

and random

midst of a war zone of drive-by

When

violence.

"Murder Capital of the U.S.," the reference

is

Washington

is

usually to a large

swath of Northeast and Southeast Washington across the Anacostia River

from downtown. While Anacostia

is

well off the beaten tourist path,

Cedar

attractions visitors should take the time to explore:

there are

two

Hill, the

home of

nineteenth-century abolitionist Frederick Douglass,

and the Smithsonian's Anacostia Museum. Either drive or

ride special

tourist buses (not public transportation) to visit these attractions.

Customs and Protocol Dress

In spite of

relaxed

town under the

and the

vestiges

its

status as a

surface.

world

The

of an inferiority complex

mean

aren't

an ostentatious crowd. For men,

of work, while most

women

stick to

suits

power

is

a fairly

laid-back Southern heritage relative to older East

by the way they

cities

that Washingtonians,

Washington

capital,

city's

and

ties

suits

dress

and

Coast

socialize,

remain the uniform

with padded shoulders

in neutral colors for office wear.

Tourists have diplomatic ever. In

immunity from

this

daytime and around the major tourist

look the part: If

it's

hot,

dreary dress code, how-

areas,

it's

wear a T-shirt and bermudas

perfectly as

you

okay

stroll

to

the

Mall with three cameras around your neck. You won't be alone. For forays up Connecticut Avenue and into Georgetown, though, leave the cameras

The crowds

and loud Hawaiian print

are better dressed

you'll really stand

shirts in

and hipper, and

out in the crowd.

if

you

your hotel room. don't follow suit,

— Know

Things the Natives Already Washington, we're glad to report,

which makes

easy

it

on

visitors.

quite informal after 5 p.m.

is

With few

exceptions,

about going out to a restaurant without a

tie,

and

men

needn't worry

women

can

uniform

fortable wearing slacks. If there's a casual, after-work

com-

feel

in this city,

probably the preppie look: chinos, Docksiders, and an Izod shirt for

it's

men and Eating

similar attire for

in

women.

Washington,

Restaurants

inexpensive ethnic restaurants

Greek, Afghani

.

.

.

the

list

a recommendation. Since say,

New

Tipping ton?

Is

the tip

Here

service.

—

made

to feel

are

is

you normally yes. Just

some

Porters, Redcaps,

of

itself as seriously as,

uncomfortable in a Japanese

crowded

eateries, since

dining out

of Washingtonians.

leave at

bear in

needn't feel waitress for

your miso soup. Expect to be elbow

for

in the

ftill-time activity for a lot

The answer

city, is ftill

Most are casual and you menus just ask the waiter or

spoon

elbow with other diners

seems to be a

an international

as

Ethiopian, Thai, Vietnamese, Lebanese,

Washington doesn't take

York, you won't be

restaurant if you request a

—

goes on.

intimidated about unfamiliar

to

107

mind

home

appropriate in Washing-

that a tip

is

a reward for

good

guidelines:

and Bellmen

At

least

$ -$2 per bag and $5 for I

a lot of baggage

Cab

Drivers

1

5%

of the fare. Add an extra dollar

If

the

cabbie does a lot of luggage handling Valet Parking

Waiters

Bartenders

Chambermaids Checkroom Attendants

in

$l-$2 1

1

5-20%

of the pretax

bill

0- 5% of the pretax

bill

1

$l-$2perday $

I

per garment

Restaurants or Theaters

Going Where the Locals Go

During the week,

you'll

from the Mall or the Washington Convention Center

have to get away

if

you want

shoulders with native Washingtonians. But not too far bars

and

restaurants are

crowded with congressional

to rub

—Capitol

Hill

aides, lobbyists, sec-

retarial staff, and even the odd congressperson or two. During the lunch hour on weekdays (but not weekends and holidays), L'Enfant Plaza is

jammed with

bureaucrats from the myriad concrete-enclosed agencies

located south of Independence Avenue.

North of the White House, the "new downtown" (roughly from 15th Street,

NW,

west to Rock Creek Park)

is

an area of glass-enclosed office

buildings where lawyers, lobbyists, and other professionals ply their trades

—and

ington's

take their clients to lunch.

bohemian

international,

Dupont

Circle, formerly

Wash-

quarter, remains headquarters to Washington's artist,

and gay communities.

1

08

How Not like

Arriving and Getting Oriented

Part Four

to

Look Like a Tourist

A Visitor on

If

it's

important to you not to look

Holiday in Our Nation's Capital, we

offer the following

advice:

Never say "Washington"

1.

say the

Be

2. 3.

name of the

full

—

it's

city,

"D.C."

to the natives. If

pronounce

obsessive, if not maniacal,

it

about the Redskins.

and carry

For men, wear a coat and

tie,

women, wear power

with padded shoulders.

suits

you must

"Worshington."

a briefcase at

all

times. For

4.

Tuck a Washington Post under your arm and march up Connecticut Avenue with a determined stride.

5.

Be

blase about Washington's tourist attractions:

to the

Clutch an espresso,

6.

Deny

ever going

Mall except in the company of small children. latte,

or cappuccino in one

baked, multigrain olive loaf in the other:

about fresh bread and coffee

hand and

The

a just-

natives are wild

bars.

Tips for the Disabled Washington abled.

is

one of the most

The White House,

accessible cities in the

world for the

for example, has a special entrance

vania Avenue for visitors arriving in wheelchairs, and

White House

guides usually allow visually handicapped visitors to touch

items described tor,

on

tours.

complete with

Braille

number

museum

All Smithsonian as are all

Each Metro

museum

floors.

station

some of

equipped with an

is

dis-

on Pennsylthe

eleva-

plates.

buildings are accessible to wheelchair visitors,

For a copy of "Smithsonian Access"

call

(202)

357-2700 or (202) 357-1729 (TDD). Folks headed to the National Zoo can get a copy of the Zoo Guide for Disabled Visitors by calling (202)

673-4717 or (202) 673-4823 (TDD). The Lincoln and Jefferson Memorials and the Washington Monument are equipped to accommodate disabled visitors.

want

Most

to avoid a lot

Needs" on page

The

who

33

in Part Five for

more information.

Local Press

Washington ate

1

sight-seeing attractions have elevators for others

of stair climbing. See our section "People with Special

is

a city of

news junkies, and the Washington Post is the opi-

of choice. Visitors should make a point of picking up Friday's edition,

which includes the tion

on things

to

paper's

do

in

"Weekend"

section.

and around Washington;

of a Friday Post on your way into town for

The Washington conservative slant

It's

loaded with informa-

if

you can, grab

a

Times, D.C.'s other daily newspaper, offers a

on

national

and world

copy

the weekend.

events.

more

Things the Natives Already City Paper, a free weekly "alternative" newspaper,

source of information on reviews.

It's

is

Know

09

another good

popular music, and movie

arts, theater, clubs,

from street-corner vending machines and

available

1

stores

all

over town. Washingtonian, a monthly magazine,

The

restaurants, etc.)

and feature

and provides

strong on

lists

(top 10

articles.

Where/Washington things to

is

of events, dining information,

a calendar

is

one of

list

popular

on Washington

theater,

several free publications that

do around town.

Visitors looking for the latest information nightlife, restaurants, special exhibitions,

and

gallery

shows

in

advance of

their trip should call or write:

Where/Washington Magazine, 1225 19th

D.C. 20036-2411. Phone

ington,

L

Washingtonian, 1828

The

Street,

NW,

Suite 510,

Wash-

(202) AG?>A'b^^.

Street,

NW,

D.C.

Suite 200, Washington,

20036. Phone (202) 331-0715.

Telephones The Washington

area

served by three area codes: (202) inside the Dis-

is

(703) in the Northern Virginia suburbs across the Potomac River,

trict,

and (301), which connects you with the Maryland suburbs. To dial out of D.C. to suburbs beyond the city's limits, it's necessary to dial the right area code. While calls to Arlington, Alexandria, and most of Fairfax

County

in Virginia

Maryland calls

and

to

Montgomery and

(50 cents from most pay phones).

Rooms

Rest

Field researchers for the Unofficial

writing ability

skills,

fice,

Prince George's Counties in

are dialed as if they're long distance, they are charged as local

.

.

Guide are selected for

and small bladders.

.

you can be sure we're not

their reporting

When we enter a marble edi-

just scrutinizing the layout, the flow

crowd, and the aesthetics: We're also nervously eyeing the

of the

real estate for

we can unload that second cup of coffee. rest room department? Actually, of the huge number of museums, monuments,

the nearest public facility where

So

how

does Washington rate in the

pretty well. That's because

federal office buildings, restaurants, bars,

that cover the

city.

Leading any

and Space in the

men

it

seem

at the

rooms

rest

rest

department

are clean

room

the Mall. For

comes

many women's

don't

rest

of great

Museum on

world when

times as

works

list

Most

stores,

and conveniently

women who

as there are

to notice," says a female

information desk.

hotels

located.

locations should be the National Air

claim there's no justice

to toilet parity, consider this:

rooms

and

men's

rest

There

are three

rooms. "And the

Smithsonian employee

who

1

Arriving and Getting Oriented

Part Four

1

Other

of note on the Mall include those

facilities

Gallery of Art, the Arthur

M.

at the

National

Sackler Gallery, the Hirshhorn

Museum

and Sculpture Garden, and the National

rooms

rest

in the National

on

niently located facilities are

in

The

Museum

of African Art.

The

of Natural History are inconve-

At the Arts and Industries Building,

a lower level.

located far

rooms

the rest

Museum

away from the front entrance.

On the other hand,

Castle, the Smithsonian's visitor center, are easy to

find and usually not very crowded. Virtually

the

all

monuments

room-equipped, including the

are rest

Lincoln and Jefferson Memorials and the Washington Monument.

Downtown,

and bars

hotels, restaurants,

are

good

bets.

Avenue

are

Monument and

tion are the

the Mall.)

new

rooms

Dupont

at

You won't

(An excep-

Circle; they're usually dirty.

World War II Memorial on Metro stations, although a few

rooms

find rest

in

complexes that do provide

rest

rooms, including

Metro Center, Farragut North, and L'Enfant

Station,

rest

on the grounds of the Washing-

restrooms at the National

stations are located in

Union

rest

both convenient and elegant.) Avoid the few public

rooms located in parks, such as the ones ton

(The

on Connecticut

off the huge lobby of the Stouffer Mayflower Hotel

Plaza.

How to Avoid Crime and Keep Safe in Public Places

Crime

in

Washington

The combination of a widespread

crack epidemic and the availability of

high-powered weaponry put Washington on the

"Murder Capital of the United

tinction:

States."

map

for a

dubious

dis-

Anyone who watches

the

evening news or reads a newspaper knows about Washington's grim murder

rate.

safe

So the question

arises, as

Washington anyway?

is

"It's

Am

the force

who

as

long

as

you

a trip to D.C.: Just

going to end up just another

how

statistic?

D.C.'s Metropolitan Police

stay in proscribed areas. Ryan, a veteran of

has worked special anticrime details around the Mall and

popular tourist

sites,

"Washington

explains,

very strongly, because tourism

To

you contemplate

Rod Ryan of

very safe," says Officer

Department,

I

get an idea of

is all

how much

visitor gets, consider this fact:

D.C.'s finest patrolling the

its

main

visitor areas

protection the average tourist or business It's

city.

patrols

the city has for income."

not just Officer Ryan and the

rest

of

Contributing to the task are a number of

other law enforcement agencies whose jobs include protecting visitors:

The

U.S. Park Police patrols the monuments, the U.S. Capitol Police

protects the Capitol

and the 20-square-block area around

Secret Service patrols the area

around the White House.

it,

and the

Plus, the

Metro

1

"

How to Avoid Crime has

own

its

and Keep Safe

in

Public Places

1

1

police force for protecting people riding public transporta-

not

tion. That's

Post-Sept. 11, a

all:

new network of security cameras

has

been added on the Mall by the Park Police and the Metropolitan Police has installed a network of security cameras in high-traffic areas such as

Georgetown, Union Station and around the White House. "Police are patrolling on bicycles, on horseback, on small motorcycles, on foot,

has

and

its

unmarked

in

own

police force

cars," explains Officer

—

Ryan. "And the Smithsonian

the buildings and around the grounds.

ing for can spot five police patrols from anywhere Statistics support his claim: D.C.'s overall

ing steadily for the

From

—

who patrol inside what he's lookwho knows Anyone

highly trained federal officers

on the Mall."

crime rate has been declin-

decade, according to the Metropolitan Police.

last

a high of 454 homicides in 1994, the rate

number of murders

Halfway through 2004, the

dropped is

to

down 27

242

pared to the previous year, which recorded 248 murders.

crime rate

doing even

is

So, who's

on the

better,

percent over the

young drug

events in

D.C,

about the same

as

anywhere

else.

in sections of the city visitors

dential areas that are tricts.

The worst

to

go to quite an

city center

effort to get there,

aries

mayhem

wander

who

and

even by mistake.

He leads a mountain bike 75% in one of the worst sec-

should know:

by

Georgetown, upper Northwest, Dupont

street,

is

it

safer

a legislative aide

was

powerful congressmen

live

not to be well patrolled."

November 1997,

Starting in

many

Circle,

any other area that out-of-

as safe for visitors as

towners frequent. Ryan explains, "Too

Washington

across

across the bridge over the Anacostia

Adams-Morgan, and downtown. Even Capitol Hill, which gained notoriety when

in Capitol Hill for

resi-

business/tourist dis-

Washington. "Visitors should stay within the bound-

of the Mall,

murdered on the

are

usually occurs

the major visitor areas. You'd have

patrol that has helped reduce street crime tions of Southeast

are rare

and Southeast Washington,

downtown and

River," says Officer Ryan,

Most

do not normally frequent: low-income,

areas are in Northeast

"Tourists should never

Random murders

Furthermore, the

removed from the

the Anacostia River from

fire?

and police say the odds here

reputation,

its

overall

9 years.

dealers in shootouts with competitors

or people involved in violent domestic disputes. despite

The

last

end of all that automatic weapons

receiving

of the victims are either

down 35

2000.

in

percent com-

and

cleaner:

visitors

began seeing

Downtown SAM

a

new

(Safety

nance) Teams, easily recognized by their bright red

attire.

force

making

and Mainte-

By cleaning

and sidewalks, removing graffiti, and assisting visitors, SAM Teams are creating a safer environment downtown. According to the D.C. Metropolitan Police, in April 1998 downtown Washington saw a streets

54%

drop

in

crime compared to April 1997, while more than 10,000

1

1

Arriving and Getting Oriented

Part Four

2

more than 25,000 workers and

bags of garbage were collected and

were aided. Visitors are encouraged to stop a

tors

and ask

for directions, get a restaurant

visi-

SAM Team member

recommendation, or get directions

for finding a landmark.

Having a Plan Random

violence and street crime are facts of life in any large

got to be cautious and alert and plan ahead.

When

you

You've

city.

are out

and

work under the assumption that you must use caution because you are on your own; if you run into trouble, it's unlikely that police or anyone else will be able to come to your rescue. You must give about, you must

some advance thought an escape plan just in

might occur, and con-

to the ugly scenarios that

both preventive measures that

sider

will

Not being

case.

keep you out of harm's way and

a victim of street crime

survival-of-the-fittest thing. Just as a lion stalks the

the antelope herd, muggers put,

no matter where you

felons to think of you as a

On

For

the Street

get if

you

alert,

be

and

are or

bad

are doing,

sort

of a

Simply

you want potential

risk.

are with other people. Second, if

alert,

is

member of

thieves target the easiest victim.

what you

you always present

starters,

weakest

and always have

at least

less

of an appealing

you must be out

tar-

alone, act

one of your arms and hands

free.

Felons gravitate toward preoccupied folks, the kind found plodding

along staring at the sidewalk, with both arms encumbered by briefcases or packages. Visible jewelry (on either

kind of attention. Men, keep your pocket.

Women,

Here's another tip: sive one, carried in

accosted.

Your

real

one

Men

This

money

approach.

is

the one

you hand over

second wallet hidden elsewhere on

A

Police will

his

tell

you

that a felon has the least

intended victim during the few

good

strategy, therefore,

is

as quickly as possible. If a felon starts

in

opposite direction.

you're

belt.

for instance, quickly take out it

if

and the bulk of whatever cash you have

clip or a

money

If You're Approached

one) and hurl

if

strap.

can carry a fake wallet in their purse and keep the

amount of control over

money,

wrong

can carry two wallets, including one inexpen-

real credit cards

Women

crime scenario

attracts the

your front trouser or coat

on over your shoulder bag

it

credit cards.

in a pocket or

his initial

women)

your hip pocket, containing about $20 in cash and

should be in either a

your person.

or

keep your purses tucked tightly under your arm;

you're wearing a coat, put

some expired

men

billfolds in

your

by demanding your

billfold (preferably

one direction while you run shouting

The odds

are greatly in

moments of

to short-circuit the

your fake

for help in the

your favor that the felon

prefer to collect your silent billfold rather than pursue you. If

will

you hand

3

How to Avoid Crime

and Keep Safe

Public Places

in

1

1

over your wallet and just stand there, the felon will likely ask for your

watch and jewelry

next. If you're a

woman,

you hang around,

the longer

the greater your vulnerability to personal injury or rape.

Secondary Crime Scenes

Under no circumstance,

police warn, should

you ever allow yourself to be taken to another location

—

a "secondary

crime scene" in police jargon. This move, they explain, provides the felon

more privacy and consequently more control. A felon can rob you on the street very quickly and efficiently. If he tries to remove you to another location,

whether by car or on

more

mind than

in

foot,

robbery. Even

it is

a certain indication that he has

gun or

the felon has a

if

knife,

your

chances are infinitely better running away. If the felon grabs your purse, let

him have

If he grabs

it.

your money or coat

your

coat,

come out of the

Another maxim: Never believe anything a felon telling

you something you desperately want

won't hurt you

if

coat.

Hanging onto

not worth getting mugged, raped, or murdered.

is

you come with me."

No

tells

you, even

how

matter

logical or

he sounds, assume the worst. Always, always, break off contact as possible,

even

if

that

In Public Transport the driver as

you

near the driver's

benign quickly

as

means running.

When

riding a bus, always take a seat as close to

can; never ride in the back. Likewise,

on

the subway,

sit

or attendant's compartment. These people have a phone

summon

and can

if he's

to believe, for example, "I

help in the event of trouble.

While it is possible to hail a cab on the street in Washingsomewhat vulnerable in the process. Particularly afi:er dusk, call a reliable cab company and stay inside while they dispatch a cab to your door. When your cab arrives, check the driver's certificate, which In Cabs

you

ton,

are

must, by law, be posted on the dashboard. Address the cabbie by his last name (Mr. Jones or whatever) or mention the number of his cab. This alerts the driver to the fact that

his cab.

Not only will

this

you

cabbie from trying to run up the If you are

via

your

fare

it

will also

keep your

fare.

comfortable reading maps, familiarize yourself with the most

your destination ahead of time.

direct route to

town

remember him and/or

are going to

contribute to your safety,

Wisconsin Avenue,

If

please," the driver

you can

is

say,

"George-

less likely to

by taking a circuitous route so he can charge you

run up

for three zones

instead of two. If

you need

to catch a cab at the train station or at

one of the

airports,

always use the taxi queue. Taxis in the official queue are properly licensed

and

regulated.

Never accept an

in the terminal or

charged for the

offer for a cab or

baggage claim. At

ride.

best,

At worst, you may

you

limo made by a stranger

will

be significantly over-

be abducted.

1

1

Arriving and Getting Oriented

Part Four

4

Personal Attitude While some

more dangerous than

areas of every city are

assume that any area

is

completely

can be the victim of a crime, and

safe.

Never

others, never

down your

let

guard.

You

can happen to you anywhere. If you

it

go to a restaurant or nightspot, use valet parking or park in a well-lighted

Women

lot.

leaving a restaurant or club alone should never be reluctant

to ask to be escorted to their car.

Never

your pride or sense of righteousness and indignation imperil

let

This

your

survival.

men

in the presence of women.

is

especially difficult for

many men,

makes no

It

approached by an aggressive drunk, an unbalanced actual felon, the rule as

is

quickly as possible.

the same: Forget your pride

Who

cares

some

if

in

and your jaw sewn

street people,

shut,

too late to

all

and even some drunks play and

They can

beyond the imagination of most people. Believe

attack with a bloodthirsty hostility

do you want

it's

that important.

that

their league (nor

an

and break off contact

keeps. is

are

When you wake up

decide that the drunk's filthy remark wasn't really Felons, druggies,

you

street person, or

whether the drunk insulted you,

everyone ends up back at the hotel safe and sound? the hospital with a concussion

particularly for

difference whether

hellish

us,

you

for

abandon

are not in

to be).

Self-defense In a situation where

it is

impossible to run, you'll need to be prepared to

defend yourself Most policemen use to the average person.

More

gun or knife

insist that a

often than not, they

is

the

say,

not

much

weapon

will

be turned against the victim. Additionally, concealed firearms and knives

most

are illegal in

age person

is

jurisdictions.

Mace. Not only

The

is it

best self-defense device for the aver-

legal in

most

states, it

is

nonlethal and

easy to use.

When you about eight

shop for Mace, look for two things:

feet,

and

it

It

should be able to

should have a protector cap so

mistake in your purse or pocket. Carefully read the directions that

with your device, paying particular attention to

and

stored,

Wearing

and how long the

how

come

should be carried

it

remain potent.

active ingredients will

a rubber glove, test-fire your

fire

won't go off by

it

Mace, making sure that you

fire

downwind.

When you

are out

ily accessible, say,

about town, make sure your Mace

is

attached to your keychain. If you are a

someplace

eas-

woman and you

keep your Mace on a keychain, avoid the habit of dropping your keys (and the Mace) into the bowels of your purse

room

or your

around until

in

car.

The Mace

your purse for

you have

it.

will

when you

not do you any good

if

leave

Keep your keys and your Mace

safely reached

your destination.

your hotel

you have in

to dig

your hand

5

How to Avoid Crime

and Keep Safe

Public Places

in

I

1

Carjackings With

the recent surge in carjackings, drivers also need to take special pre-

cautions.

"Keep

when

alert

D.C.

you're driving in

Officer

traffic,"

Ryan

warns. "Keep your doors locked, with the windows rolled up and the air conditioning or heat on. In traffic, leave enough space in front of you so

and can make

that you're not blocked in

and

approaches your car

That way,

a U-turn.

if

someone

beating on your windshield, you can drive

starts

off." Store

your purse or briefcase under your knees when you are driv-

ing, rather

than on the seat beside you.

and Scams

Ripoffs

First-time visitors to the Mail stepping off the escalator at the Smithson-

ian

Metro

are often confronted

museum ian museums

brochures. Don't

—and

Refer

who

them

by

for

fast-talking

visitors

need

watch out

to

down and and move on.

cop for help

More Things to Avoid When you do go out, walk with a minimum sible. If

you have

And

people around. tourist

when

don't

walk down

careful

ers are a

about

good

make

around you

is

the well-dressed fare.

of two people whenever pos-

alleys. It also

of

helps not to look like a

at buildings

and unfold maps on the sidewalk.

whom you ask for directions. (When

bet.)

Don't count your

cash as possible. At public phones,

ber to

you off

for

venturing away from the Mall. Don't wear a camera around

your neck, and don't gawk

Be

them

in well-lit areas that have plenty

walk alone, stay

to

try to sell

they need $5 for train

claim their car broke to a

men who

the brochures are free in Smithson-

it;

the fast-talkers are trying to rip

Another scam that couple

fall

a long-distance to hear.

call,

money

if you

in doubt,

in public,

must say your

don't say

it

shopkeep-

and carry

as little

calling card

num-

loud enough for strangers

And, with the exception of the Mall, avoid public Rock Creek Park at night.

parks after dark. In particular, don't go to

Help May Be CloserThan You Think While walking ities. If,

in

Washington,

office building for help.

who

try to be

despite your precautions,

The

you

aware of public and federal

are attacked,

entrances are

all

head

for

patrolled by

any

facil-

federal

armed guards

can offer assistance.

While

this litany

of warnings and precautions

may sound

grim,

it's

really commonsense advice that applies to visitors in any large American city. Keep in mind that Washington's reputation for crime is enhanced by

the worldwide media attention the city gets: Local news in Washington really national

news. Finally, remember that 2 1 million visitors a year

flock to the nation's capital,

making

it

one of the most

is

still

visited destinations

1

1

Arriving and Getting Oriented

Part Four

6

in the

United

States.

The overwhelming

with crime during their Washington

majority encounter no problems

visit.

The Homeless If you're

a shock city

is

not from a big city or haven't visited one in a while, you're in for

when you come

filled

Washington.

to

seems that every block in the

It

with shabbily dressed people asking for money. Furthermore,

downtown

along the Mall, near the national monuments, on

and

and gardens, you

in parks

will see

sleeping bags, their possessions piled

Georgetown

streets filled

sidewalks,

people sleeping in blankets and

up next

On

to them.

crowded

women

with opulent shops, homeless

with

small children beg for money. Drivers in cars are approached at stop-

by men carrying Magic-Marker-on-cardboard signs reading

lights

"Homeless

—Will Work

for Food." Virtually every

Metro

exit

is

choked

with clusters of people begging for money.

Who

"Most

Are These People?

D.C.

are lifelong

residents

who

are

poor," according to Joan Alker, assistant director of the National Coalition for the Homeless, an advocacy group headquartered in Washington.

"The people you see on the streets are primarily single men and women. A disproportionate number of them are minorities and people with

disabilities

have physical

—

they're either mentally

ill,

or substance abusers, or

disabilities."

Are They a Threat to Visitors?

"No," Ms. Alker

Washington show that homeless men have lower

says. "Studies

rates

done

in

of conviction for

We know that murders aren't make a blanket statement, but no more likely to commit a violent

violent crimes than the population at large.

being committed by the homeless.

most homeless people you

see are

I

can't

crime than other people."

Should You Give the Homeless Money?

Ms. Alker

"But

says.

tence by looking

no way

to

tell if

if

them

you

"That's a personal decision,"

can't, at least try to

in the eye

and

acknowledge

saying, 'No,

can't."

I

the guy with the Styrofoam cup asking for a

really destitute or just a

con

artist,

no one can dispute

that

their exis-

While

there's

handout

is

most of these

people are what they claim to be: homeless.

Ways to Help being both their

It's

really a

moved and

matter for your

own conscience. We confess

annoyed by these unfortunate people:

to

moved by

need and annoyed that we cannot enjoy the nation's capital without

running a gauntlet of begging

found that of quarters

change

it is

easier

at the

at all times.

men and women.

on the conscience and

In the final analysis,

spirit to get a

bank and carry an overcoat or

The

we

couple of rolls

jacket pocket full of

cost of giving those homeless

who

approach you a

How to Avoid Crime

and Keep Safe

quarter really does not add up to

all

that

is

a notion, perhaps valid in

Public Places

much, and

the psyche to respond to their plight than to

There

in

some

it is

much

deny or ignore

instances, that

17

I

better for

their presence.

money given

to

a homeless person generally goes toward the purchase of alcohol or drugs. If this bothers

you

some inexpensive

excessively, carry granola bars for distribution or

gift

coupons that can be redeemed

at a

buy

McDonald's or

other fast-food restaurant for coffee or a sandwich.

We have found that a litde kindness regarding the homeless goes a long way, and that a few kind words delivered along with your quarter or gra-

We

nola bar brighten the day for both you and your friend in need.

are

not suggesting a lengthy conversation or prolonged involvement, just

something simple

like,

"Sure,

I

can help a

little bit.

Take

care."

Those moved to get more involved in the nationwide problem of to the National Coalition or a check homelessness can send inquiries

—

for the

Homeless, 1012 l4th

—

Street,

NW,

Suite 600, Washington,

D.C.

20005-3471; (202) 737-6444; www.nationalhomeless.org.

Keep

It

Brief

Finally, don't play psychologist. All the

counter on the street are strangers. They

may be

people you en-

harmless, or they

may be

dangerous. Either way, maintain distance and keep any contact or en-

counter brief Be prepared to handle street people in accordance with just be prepared. If you have a druggie in

your principles, but mostly,

your face wanting a handout, the

last

thing you want to do

is

pull out

your wallet and thumb through the twenties looking for a one-dollar As the sergeant on Hill Street Blues used to say, be careful out there.

bill.

Part Five

Getting around

Washington

Driving Your Car: Traffic

A Really Bad Idea

Hot Spots

some bad news for anyone considering driving to our nation's capital: Washington is legendary for its traffic congestion. Let's start with the Capital Beltway (1-495 and 1-95), which encircles the city through the Virginia and Maryland suburbs: It's guaranteed to be logjammed on Here's

weekdays from 7 a.m. to 9:30 a.m. and again from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. Unremitting suburban growth and geography confound the best efforts of traffic engineers to alleviate the congestion. Inside the Beltway, the situation only gets worse.

The few

bridges that

connect Washington and Virginia across the Potomac River are rushhour botdenecks. Interstates 66 and 395 in Virginia have restricted carpool lanes inbound in the morning and outbound in the evening. Inside the District, Rock Creek Parkway becomes one-way during rush hour,

and major thoroughfares such as Connecticut Avenue switch the direction of center lanes to match the predominant flow of traffic at different

Downtown,

times of day.

the

city's

traffic

circles

can trap unwary

motorists and reduce drivers to tears or profanity. Pierre L'Enfant's

eighteenth-century grand plan of streets and avenues that intersect in traffic circles

is

a

nightmare for twenty-first-century motorists.

First-time drivers to

Washington should map out

their routes

in

advance, avoid arriving and departing during rush hour, and then leave

Lunch-hour

the car parked throughout their stay. ferocious,

and don't think

Washington's popularity crawl

that

weekends

as a tourist

on Saturdays and Sundays

news about driving sides, getting

in

in

Washington,

around town by car

is

are

mecca

warm

it's

this:

traffic

can be equally

immune from

traffic snarls:

slows Beltway traffic to a

weather. If there's any

good

After evening rush hour sub-

pretty easy.

119

Bronze pylons

(left) identify

stations; colored stripes at

show the

line

or

lines

Metro

top

served by

that station.

Metro system and neighborhood maps (below) are located in the mezzanine of each

station, as are

automated Farecard vending machines (bottom).

L *-

-

Riding the Metro: A Really

Good

Idea

121

Parking you ignore our advice about driving in Washington (we repeat: don't) battle your way downtown by car, you'll find yourself stuck in one of those good news/bad news scenarios. The good news: There are plenty of If

and

The bad

places to park.

arm and

garages that charge an

minimum. Think you can and

try,

is

a leg. Figure

lot

of quarters

the spaces are in parking

on $12

a

day or $5 an hour,

Go

museum

a

—

ahead

Most

and plenty of patience.

two hours

restricted to

on exploring

intent

all

beat the system by finding street parking?

but bring a

metered parking

news: Virtually

—

not a long time

if

you're

And

or attending a business meeting.

D.C. cops are quick to issue tickets for expired meters. Also, a lot of legal spaces turn illegal during afternoon rush hour.

In popular residential neighborhoods such as

Morgan,

Georgetown and Adams-

parking gets even worse at night. Unless you've got a residential

parking permit

—not

likely if you're

from out of town

limited to from two to three hours, depending

on

—

street

parking

the neighborhood.

is

The

parking permits are prominently displayed in the cars of area residents.

tempted

If you're

efficient at

whisking away

are hefty. If your car at

(202) 727-1010;

5000.

to park illegally, be

towed,

is

spaces

is

call

the

D.C. Department of Public Works

you're not sure if

if

Incredibly, there's free

weekdays; the limit

warned: D.C. police are grimly

parked in rush-hour zones, and the fines

cars

it

was towed,

call

(202) 727-

parking along the Mall beginning at 10 a.m.

three hours. Needless to say, competition for the

is fierce.

Riding the Metro:

A Really Good Idea

A Clean, Safe Alternative It

should be clear by

now that visitors who would prefer to spend their time

doing something productive rather than or around Washington.

and

forget

them

the parking

—

lots.

just

Thanks

sit

in traffic

jams shouldn't drive in

to the Metro, visitors can park their cars

remember you need

Five color-coded

subway

a

Metro

lines

farecard

and cash

to exit

connect downtown Wash-

ington to the outer reaches of the city and beyond to the Maryland and Virginia suburbs.

It's

a clean, safe,

money, and shoe leather

as

it

and

efficient

system that saves

ington should use the Metro as their primary

The seats,

trains are well

and

air

visitors time,

whisks them around town. Visitors to Wash-

mode of transportation.

maintained and quiet, with carpeting, cushioned

conditioning.

The

stations are

modern, well

lighted,

and

are uniformly constructed with high, arching

usually spotless,

and they

ceilings paneled

with sound-absorbing, lozenge-shaped concrete panels.

1

22

Getting around Washington

Part Five

The wide-open look of

and

the stations has been criticized as sterile

monotonous, but the design may explain why the Metro has maintained a crime-free reputation: There's

system

tion, the entire

each car

is

no place

bad guys

for

monitored by closed-circuit

to hide. In addi-

TV

cameras, and

equipped with passenger-to-operator intercoms,

is

platforms and elevators.

The Metro (nobody

And

cars

and

Metrorail,

calls it

as are rail

stations are nearly graffiti free.

name) transports more

its real

than half a million passengers a day along 103 miles of track and through

83

one

stations. Currently,

and three new

line extension

under construction (with two of them opening class

in late 2004).

stations are

a world-

It's

engineering marvel.

Trains operate so frequently that carrying a schedule

is

unnecessary. Dur-

ing peak hours (weekdays 5:30 a.m. to 9:30 a.m. and 3 p.m. to 8 p.m.), trains enter the stations every three to six minutes.

During

the interval increases to an average of 12 minutes;

it

on weekends. To maintain the

intervals

ofiF-peak hours,

can go to 20 minutes

throughout the

year, the

Metro

adds and deletes trains to compensate for holidays and peak tourist season.

Hours

of operation

a.m.

5:30

are

to

midnight

Monday

throughThursday, and 7 a.m. to 3 a.m. on weekends and holidays.

How to

Ride the Metro

Finding the Stations

Many (but,

unfortunately, not

all)

and number of blocks

direction

entrances are identified by

street signs in

Washington indicate the

Metro station. Station brown columns or pylons with an "M" on all to the nearest

four sides and a combination of colored stripes in red, yellow, orange, green, or blue that indicate the line or lines serving that station. Since

most

stations are

underground, users usually descend on escalators to the

mezzanine or ticketing part of the stations outside of

on the ground

station.

At above-ground and elevated

downtown Washington,

level.

At the kiosk located

with quick directions on

how

the mezzanine there, pick

up

is

most often

map

a system

to use the Metro.

Purchasing a Farecard Next comes the your

up

fare

tricky part:

You must determine your

ahead of time because the ticketing system

to the backlit, color-coded

map

destination

list

Then look on

and find

the

bottom

of stations reveals both the

(peak and off-peak) and the estimated travel time to each. Peak usually

more

from 3 p.m. station to

to

7 p.m. weekdays. Unless you're traveling from to another,

fare

fares,

expensive, are in effect from 5:30 a.m. to 9:30 a.m.

downtown, or from one suburb

and

automated. Walk

located in each mezzanine

the station nearest your ultimate destination.

of the map, where an alphabetized

is

and

a suburban

one-way

fare

is

Lnd older

neeo& " '"

UE

Rush hour and non-rush hour fares are

listed alphabetically at

each

station's kiosk (top).

Automated faregates, which control access in and out of spacious Metro stations, are located near the kiosk.The woman pictured here

124

is

exiting the station, (below)

Riding the Metro: A Really

A

typically $1.35 (non-rush hour).

Good

Idea

1

25

Before you walk away

final note:

from the map, make a mental note of the last station of the train that you plan to board, even though you're probably not traveling that far. The

name of your

destination

train's final

key to locating the right platform

—

name of

the

is

the one

whose

the train, thus the

trains are

going in the

photographs starting on page 120.)

right direction. (See

Farecard Vending Machines Those big vending machines

lining the walls of the mezzanine don't dis-

money and

pense sodas. Instead, they swallow your

magnetic tions.

you

stripes that get

Once you

and

in

get your card,

—

this

hang onto

with

issue farecards

crucial

is

—

out of Metro

sta-

it.

like this: Walk up to the farecard vending numeral "1" on the left: side at eye level. (We'll where you insert bills and/or coins. If your desti-

Buying a farecard works

machine and look Step

call this

nation

This

1.)

say, a

is,

for the

the

for the

amount

and you're making a round-trip, insert $2.70 slides in, look at the middle of the

fare,

As the money

into the machine.

machine

is

$1.35

numeral "2" (Step

where

2),

a digital readout registers

you've shoved into the contraption.

Machines that accept paper money invariably screw up, and these machines are no exception. They oftien spit back bills they don't like, so try

smoothing wrinkled

unfrayed greenbacks over

them and choose new,

before inserting

bills

bills

that are worn. Inserting coins

foolproof, but not very practical if you're riding the

Our

advice

is

to cut

possible

by plugging

buying a

ticket that

stiles

it's

on the

time to buy a

farecard

new one.

the possibility of losing the farecard while

value your time at

all,

take the

risk.

you wish

A

it's still

let

The computerized

afi:er

digital

you

bill,

lets

a

few bucks.

is

If you

readout at Step 2 are

adjust the readout to the

to purchase. For example, if

$2.70 and you inserted a $5

turn-

each use, which

worth

as

you're

major drawback, of course,

Below the

white "plus" and "minus" buttons that exact fare

at

nearly

much

once, which means

days or longer.

last several

print the remaining value

you know when

$20

in $5, $10, or even

is

lot.

using these infernal machines as

down on

can

Metro

a

your round-trip

fare

is

from $5 down to $2.70 you overshoot, push the

toggle the readout

by repeatedly pushing the "minus" button.

(If

"plus" button to increase the value.) Then look to the right side of the machine and the numeral "3" (Step 3), and press the button diat reads

"Press for Farecard." If all goes well (and, in

pops your farecard and your change

—

all

fairness,

it

usually does), out

in this case, $2.30 in change; the

(We toid you. to buy a $6.50 farecard.) downtown, the fewer farecard machines from The which usually isn't a problem at these mezzanines the walls of the line for less busy stations. For balky machines that won't take your money, or machines don't dispense farther out

you

bills.

get

—

126

Getting around Washington

Part Five

any problem

at

help

all,

is

only a few steps away

each station near the faregate. Inside

is

kiosk located at

at the

a breathing

human

who will

being

help. Don't be shy.

One

warning: If the farecard machine accepts $20

last

maximum amount

mind

that the

$4.95

—which means

keep in

bills,

of change the machine can

you're stuck buying a farecard with a

out

spit

is

minimum

value of $15.05.

Talking Fare

Metro at

has

Machines

installed

46 mezzanines

An

Passes/Farecards across the top.

you through the

voice guide

express

talking

farecard

machines

vending

name

in the system's busiest stations; look for the

optional audio button

steps to purchase farecards,

lets

you hear

much of the conRision and is a real boon to visually impaired riders. The machines let you buy up to $200 worth of farecards with denomination of $45. You can

also purchase the

ends and holidays

(a

very good deal that

take advantage of). Currently,

all

VISA, Discover, and MasterCard. Note: Most

pass,

day on week-

we recommend most

you can charge your

a top

$6.50 one-day

weekdays and

valid for unlimited rides after 9:30 a.m.

a

which removes

visitors

farecard purchases to

users will

want

to press

button two, for a single farecard, to begin the card purchase process.

Entering the Station

With your

farecard firmly in hand,

you

are

now

authorized to enter the

Hold the card in your right hand with the brown magnetic stripe facing up and on the right. Walk up to one of the waist-high faregates with the green light and white arrow near the kiosk (not the faregates that read "Do Not Enter" they are for passengers exiting the Metro

station.

—

station)

and

insert

your card into the

slot,

where

it is

slurped into the

bowels of the Metro. As the gate opens, walk through and grab your card as

it is

regurgitated from the slot at the top of the gate. All this happens

in less than a second. Place the farecard in a safe place; if you lose

must pay the maximum

fare

when you

it,

you

exit.

Finding the Train Platform

Once

you're past the faregate, look for signs with arrows

your intended your train

line's

will arrive.

end

At an underground

station,

escalator or stairs to the train platform; at an will

and the name of

station that point toward the platform

you

will

where

descend on an

above-ground

station,

you

ascend to the platform. You can reconfirm that you're on the correct

side of the platform

by reading the

list

of stations printed on the pylon

located there and finding your destination. If your destination you're

on the

right track; departing trains

go

in

in the red-tiled area to wait for the next train.

one direction

is

listed,

only.

Stand

When

entering or exiting, insert the farecard (face up with the mag-

netic strip

The

on the

right) into

the slot on the front of the faregate (top).

farecard reappears at the top of the faregate (bottom);

and the faregate opens.

On

remove

it

faregates for disabled people, the farecard

reappears at the front of the gate.

Note: Remember to hang on to the

farecard

—you need

it

to exit the

system. 127

128

Part Five

Getting around Washington

Boarding the Train As

embedded

a train approaches a station, lights

As the

granite edge of the platform begin flashing.

in the floor along the train

comes out of the

tunnel, look for a sign over the front windshield that states the train's des-

and

tination

line (blue, red, green, orange, or yellow).

but not the color,

make If

is

shown on

also

sure the approaching train

it's

is

The

destination,

the side of the train. Double-check to the one

you want.

the right train, approach the doors, but stand clear to

ing passengers exit the train.

Then move

let

depart-

smartly; the train stops for only

a few seconds, then chimes will indicate that the doors are about to close.

rushing to catch a train and hear the chimes, don't attempt to

If you're

pop open

board. Unlike elevator doors, the train doors won't

on them

—and they

exert a lot of pressure.

Wait

Inside, take a seat or, if you're a first- time

map

The

located near the doors.

Metro

user,

have

trains all

if you lean

for the next train.

study the system

real operators

who

PA

system and give information for

transferring to other lines (sometimes

you can even hear them over the

announce the next din).

It's

station over a

better to study the

ernous station walls

at

map and

read the signs

mounted on

the cav-

each stop.

Exiting the Station

As the

train enters

your

station,

them.

Some

stations have

the doors. When you step on the platform and walk toward

move toward

off the train, look for stairs or escalators

two or more

exits,

but the signs on the walls of

the stations aren't always clear about where each exit goes. If

which tourists

you know

you want

(for

example, at the Smithsonian station most

want the Mall

exit,

not Independence Avenue), look for that sign

exit

and follow the arrow. At the top of the

escalator or stairs,

get your farecard ready,

the

Metro system (card

right, insert in slot). If

walk toward the mezzanine

and repeat the same procedure you used in right hand, magnetic stripe

you bought exact

fare,

area,

to enter

up and on the

you won't get your card

back, but the gate will open and a little sign will flash "Exact Fare." You're on your way. If your farecard still has money left on it, it pops up as the gate opens and the sign flashes "Take Farecard." Do same; exit station. If

your farecard doesn't have enough value to cover your

won't open and the card will pop back out. "Exitfare" are lined

machine somewhere

up behind you when

just

this

You need

trip,

to take

the gate it

to

an

behind you. (Invariably ten people

happens, creating the equivalent of a

minor Beltway backup.) The reddish-colored

Exitfare

their brothers, the farecard machines. Insert

your card and immediately

the digital readout displays the exact

can exit the station. (Don't make

my

machines look

like

amount of moolah it needs so you The machine asked for 40

mistake:

Riding the Metro: A Really

and

cents

stuck a $5

I

bill

into

it. I

coins; the farecard reappears; grab

swallows

it

and

sets

you

Good

Idea

129

got $4.60 in change back.) Plug in the insert

it;

same

into the faregate,

which

free.

Changing from One Line to Another Sooner or

Metro

later

—probably sooner—you

line to another.

where the

stations,

Metro Center

red, orange,

and

(red, yellow,

need to transfer from one

will

the Big Enchilada of the transfer

and blue

lines

converge in

downtown

tourists are likely to hit are Gallery

Washington. Other transfer stations

Place-Chinatown

is

L' Enfant

green);

Plaza (yellow, blue,

orange, green); Rosslyn (orange and blue); and Pentagon (yellow and blue).

To

you

transfer,

don't use your farecard. Simply exit your train, take

the escalator to the correct platform,

and reboard. Try

system as your train enters the station:

The

to listen to the

where the

driver recites

PA dif-

ferent lines are located in the approaching station (for example, "Transfer to the red line tions,

on the lower

level"). If

you

can't

hear the driver's instruc-

look for the color-coded pylons with arrows that point toward the

platforms, and look for the one with your destination listed

The

Gallery Place-Chinatown station

quently, you're routed

down and up

is

escalators to reach

Keep your eyes up for signs overhead that as "Red Line-Wheaton Straight Ahead."

Metro Foibles and

on

it.

especially complicated. Fre-

your platform. messages such

state reassuring

How to Cope

Boarding the WrongTrain Unless you're concerned about being ten minutes or so

meeting with the president, boarding a tion

isn't

form

is

a big problem.

train

late for

Simply get off at the next

station,

and

if

the plat-

located between the tracks, go to the other side of the platform to

wait for the next train running in the opposite direction, and board

both or

your

going in the wrong direc-

sets

of tracks run

and

stairs

down

it.

If

the center of the station, take the escalator

cross the tracks to the other side,

where you can catch the

next train going the other way. If

you

train to

realize you've

boarded the wrong

color train (say, the

orange

Dorn

Street),

Vienna, Virginia, instead of the blue train to Van

just get off at the next station, stay

on the same platform, and take the

next blue line train.

What

to

Do

with Farecards Worth SO Cents

After a few days in Washington, you that don't have

enough value

may

for even a

start

one-way

accumulating farecards trip.

Don't throw them

away! Instead, next time you're using the Metro go up to a farecard vending machine in the mezzanine

and

insert the old farecard into the slot

on

When it

in

the value of a farecard drops below $

for a

new one

at a farecard

machine

I

,

trade

(top).

Emergency intercoms (bottom) are located on

all

station platforms.

<

i

130

1

Riding the Metro: A Really the right side of the machine where

on the

value will be displayed

money

at Step

1

readout at Step

new

white "Push for Farecard" button to get a value If,

on your old

Idea

1

Used Farecard."

2.

3

Its

Feed the machine

and "minus" buttons, and

futz with the "plus"

,

says "Trade In

it

digital

Good

press the

card that includes the

card.

Like Joe, You're Color Blind sank the

Joe's heart

first

time he tried to figure out Washington's Metro

system: Like a few other men, he

is

afflicted

with red-green color blind-

To his eyes, the Metro's red and green lines look nearly identical in color, and the orange line looks a lot redder than it ought to. The only lines on the system map he could distinguish by color were the blue and ness.

yellow ones.

on the names of the stations at the ends of the That way, the red line becomes the "Wheaton/Shady Grove" line,

The lines.

solution

is

to fixate

while the green line at first,

the

is

"U

Street-Cardozo/Anacostia"

line.

It's

blindly follow colored signs:

make

you've got to

Knowing

end station is on whether or not

helpful

a line's

a split-second decision

to

train that's almost ready to depart the station. For instance, if

the

harder

but you'll end up with a distinct advantage over those

Dupont

Circle

board the red sooner or

Metro and want

line train

later, you'll

to

who when

board a

you enter

go to Union Station, you need to

heading toward Wheaton

end

get familiar with the

— not Shady Grove.

So,

stations anyway.

Discounts and Special Deals

Up

Children

to

two children under age

can ride free

five

when accom-

panied by a paying passenger.

Senior Citizens and People with Disabilities able for qualified senior citizens; call tion. People

reduced

with

fares.

disabilities

A new service

can

call

called

Reduced

fares are avail-

(202) 637-7000 for more informa(202) 962-1245 for information on

"Metro Mobility Link" supplies peoMetro stations,

ple with disabilities with specialized information about

including general features of each station, the location of Braille signs,

whether the station has accessible features.

The Metro

is

a center or side platform,

The number

is

and other disabled-

(202) 962-6464.

a tourist attraction in

its

own

right, featuring the

Western

Hemisphere's longest escalator: the 230-foot, mezzanine-to-platform-level

behemoth

at the

Wheaton Metro in suburban Maryland. If that's a little Dupont Circle Metro's escalator is nearly as long. If

out of the way, the escalators terrify

you or you

with elevators. But

it's

a

are wheelchair-bound,

good idea

to

check

that the elevator at your destination station vator,

all

stations are

at a station kiosk is

in operation.

To

equipped

and confirm find the ele-

look for the wheelchair symbol near the station entrance.

132

Getting around Washington

Part Five

Fare Discounts twice a day,

If

you plan on using the Metro more than once or

Metrorail at (202) 637-7000 to find out what discounts

call

are in effect during

your

9:30 a.m.

tions in

midnight

A

for

Metrorail

farecard of

One-Day

$6.50 weekdays, and

$20 or more you

Pass lets

all

gar-

from

ride

day on weekends and

way to go if you plan to ride the subway to several locaone day. Commuters can save money by purchasing passes that

holidays;

let

till

A high-value

visit.

ners a 10 percent bonus,

them

the

it's

ride anywhere, anytime, for

available at the

Metro Center

two weeks. Discount

passes are

and from the new talking

sales office

fare-

card machines installed in busier Metro Stations. Discount passes are also sold at

many

Safeway, Giant, and SuperFresh grocery stores.

Free Information

For a

information kit that includes a Metro

free visitor

system map, specific information on getting to Smithsonian

on

other attractions, and information call this

number: (202) 637-7000. The computer

the-minute Metro information on the Internet

at

museums and

Metro

driving to suburban

stations,

can get up-to-

literate

www.wniata.coin. You

can also purchase tickets in $10, $15, and $20 increments.

A Note about Metrobus known

Washington's extensive bus system,

Metrobus, serves George-

as

town, downtown, and the suburbs. Racks recently installed on metro

new Bike-on-Bus program

buses as part of the

There

flexibility.

is

no additional charge

commuter

further increase

for passengers with bicycles.

However, with 400 routes and more than 1,500 buses, Metrobus extremely complicated system to figure out feel that visitors to

and

stick to the

Washington should

leave

how

to use.

Metrobus

As

to the

an

is

a result,

we

commuters

Metro. For the few places that the Metro doesn't reach

notably Georgetown and

Adams-Morgan

—we recommend

taking a cab.

Bus Transfers If,

despite our advice,

in

D.C. or

you plan

to transfer

from the Metro

Virginia, get a free transfer before

from the machine located next to the escalator station that

you entered. You

White

Flint,

ify for

reduced parking

Twinbrook, and fees

also

to a

Metrobus

you board the Metro in the

need to pick up a bus transfer

New Carrollton

on weekdays; look

train

mezzanine of the at the

suburban stations to qualfor signs in the station.

Taxis Washington

taxis are plentiful

and

relatively cheap. They're also strange.

Instead of a metered fare system, fares are figured city into 5 zones

map and

and 27 subzones; the base

fare chart are

posted in

all

on

fare for

legal cabs

a

map

one zone

that splits the is

$5.

A zone

but probably won't

mean

People with Special Needs

much

to first-time visitors

—

or most residents, for that matter. If you're

concerned about getting ripped

request a receipt before

off,

That way the driver knows

ride.

133

you

start the

got no defense in an overcharging

he's

claim.

The

cab system has other quirks. Drivers can pick up other fares as

long as the original passenger

way

third rider

and

and trying

to catch a train.

it's

raining;

it's

are, stick to the

gal yet

still

good news

not so hot

you're the second or

if

you're the original passenger

if

the possibility of a ride in a poorly maintained cab or one

To eliminate

who

as

you

major cab companies. Some of the independents are

ille-

driven by a recent immigrant

cab.

taken more than five blocks out of the

isn't

of the original destination. That's

carr}'

One way to

is

as unfamiliar

and roof

the markings

spot a fly-by-night taxi

aren't any, pass that

one

light

is

to

with the city

of a seemingly legitimate

check for hubcaps.

If there

by.

Major D.C.TaxI Companies Capitol

(202) 546-2400

Diamond

(202) 387-6200

Cab

(703) 522-2222

Yellow

People with Special Needs Washington disabilities.

is

one of the most

With

employer in the

accessible cities in the

area,

Washington provides

abled people. As a result, the service sector sellers, retail clerks,

more attuned

cities. It

that lobby for handicapped

with

—

for dis-

bus drivers, waiters, ticket

disabilities

doesn't hurt that a

—

are

somewhat

than service-sector

number of organizations

people are headquartered in

Washington.

Metro, for example, was designed to meet federal standards for

accessibility.

to

for folks

good job market

a

cab drivers, tour guides, and so on

to the needs of people with

employees in other

The

world

the equal-opportunity federal government as the major

As

a result, the stations

a wide array of people with

and

trains provide

optimal services

special requirements. Elevators provide

access to the mezzanine, or ticketing areas platform,

and

street level; call

the Metro's 24-hour elevator hot line at (202) 962-1825 to check elevators at the stations

The edge of the

you plan

if

the

to use are operating.

train platform

is

built with a

gray, granite strip that's different in texture

1

4-inch, smooth, light

from the

rest

of the

station's

flooring so that visually impaired passengers can detect the platform

edge with a foot or cane. Flashing lights embedded in the granite alert

hearing-impaired passengers that a train

Handicapped-only parking spaces

is

strip

entering the station.

are placed close to station entrances.

134

Getting around Washington

Part Five

While purchasing tion

a farecard

a strictly visual process (unless the sta-

is

equipped with the talking vending machines), visually impaired

is

passengers can go to the nearby kiosk for assistance. Priority seating for senior citizens and passengers with disabilities in

is

located next to doors

all cars.

who

Visitors with disabilities

the

ID

NW,

good

is

for a

1245

more information.

for

the nearest station

Metro's

month.

rail

Go

to 4:30 p.m.

from 8 a.m.

is

possess a transit

ID

can pick up a courtesy Metro

If

their

home

city

to

Metro Headquarters, 600 one up;

weekdays

to pick

you want

to ride the

Fifth Street,

call

Metro

(202) 962-

to get there,

Gallery Place. For a free guide with information on

and bus system

for the elderly

(202) 637-1328. "Metro Mobility Link" disabilities. Call

ID from

that provides substantial fare discounts;

and physically

disabled, call

a help line for people with

is

(202) 962-6464 for basic as well as

more

specialized

information on Metro stations.

The Smithsonian and lion's

the National Park Service, agencies that run the

share of popular sights in Washington, offer top-notch services to

folks

with

disabilities.

Designated handicapped parking spaces are

located along Jefferson Drive

on the Mall. Museums

are

entrance ramps, barrier-free exhibits, elevator service to

equipped with

and

all floors,

can rooms and water fountains. Visually impaired of drawings raised-line pick up large-print brochures, audio tours, and and National Air museum artifacts at many Smithsonian museums. The visitors

accessible rest

Space

Museum

facts; call

touch models and

offers special tours that let visitors

(202) 357-2700 for information.

Hearing-impaired

visitors to the

National Air and Space

Museum

arrange tours with an interpreter by calling (202) 357-2700. Public

phones

room

in the

is

Guide

arti-

museum

are

can

tele-

equipped with amplification, and the briefing

equipped with audio loop. For a copy of the Smithsonian's "A

for Disabled Visitors," call (202)

357-2700 or (202) 357-1729

(TDD). The Lincoln and Jefferson Memorials and the Washington Monument are equipped to accommodate disabled visitors. Most sight-seeing attractions have elevators for seniors

climbing.

The

and others who want

to avoid a lot

of stair

White House, for example, has a special entrance on

Pennsylvania Avenue for visitors arriving in wheelchairs, and White

House guides

usually allow visually handicapped visitors to touch

of the items described on

Tourmobile scooter

lift

offers

a special van

for disabled visitors.

tour; in fact, visitors

equipped with a wheelchair and

The van

the regular

visits all

can usually specify what

sites

same

price as the standard

Tourmobile

rate,

sites

on the

they want to see in any

order and the van will wait until they are finished touring. the

some

tours.

$20

The

for adults

service

is

and $10

People with Special Needs for children. Call (202)

554-7020

van. Information available at In spite of

all

is still

day

in

advance

the services available to disabled visitors,

and

to reserve a

www.tourmobile.com.

idea to call ahead to any facility ices are in place

at least a

135

you plan

to visit

it's still

and confirm

that the particular exhibit or gallery

a

good

that serv-

you wish

to see

available.

Foreign visitors to Washington

who would

their native language can contact the

"The Guide

Service of Washington"

like a

tour conducted in

Guide Service of Washington. See

on page 159.

Part Six

Sight-seeing Tips

and Tours

Home

Plan before You Leave There

are several

good reasons why you should take the time

planning before coming to Washington to tour

Washington

its

to

do some

sights. First

of

a big, sprawling city that covers a lot of real estate.

is

National Mall, for example,

two miles long

is

—and

there's

all,

The

more

to

Washington beyond that long expanse of green. Spending a poorly planned day traipsing back and forth from

monument

federal building to

can waste a

monument

lot

to

museum

to

of time, energy, and shoe

leather.

But must:

not only Washington's physical

it's

It's

Even

able.

if

hard choices about

your that

visit

is

how many

shorter, say

you have

much

size that

makes planning

a

number of tourist attractions that are availyour vacation is a week long, be prepared to make some

the mind-boggling

sights

you can

only two or three days,

a firm idea of what

during your allotted time

monuments and

you want

is

fit it's

to see.

into your itinerary. If

even more imperative

Attempting to see too

exhausting: Your visit becomes a blur

As with most large-scale projects, making your trip more pleasurable. Our recommendation is to do some soul-searching and try to reach some decisions about what your interests are before you leave for Washington. Are you curious about how the government spends all your tax

of marble a

little

big rooms.

research can go a long

way

money? Have you always wanted coln in his marble memorial?

in

to gaze

Do you

up

at the

solemn

love antiques?

figure of Lin-

Are you a military

Does technolog)^ fascinate you? Do you love exploring art museums? Gardens? Historical houses? Washington offers places to explore for people with all these interests. Yet neither this guide nor any other can

buff?

tell

you what your

Some more

interests are.

You

gotta

do your homework.

To help winnow your choices, get as much written you can before you leave and read it. To supplement

advice:

information as

—

137

138

this

Sight-seeing Tips and Tours

Part Six

you can

guide,

cies,

Washington tourist pubhc Hbrary and travel agen-

get information concerning

and recreation

attractions, hotels,

at the

or by calling or writing any of the profiled attractions.

Web ington

surfers

and the computer

now has

its

own Web

literate will

by location and

hotels that's searchable

a

site. It offers

be glad to

know

that

Wash-

comprehensive guide to D.C.

by

price, restaurants searchable

neighborhood, tour information, and a quarterly calendar of special events

and

festivals.

Thinking Visitors to

they

visit

The

Internet address

is

www.dcvisit.com.

Categories

in

Washington

are often

famous and popular

thrown into such

edifices

large groups

as the

of tourists

as

Washington Monu-

ment, the U.S. Capitol, and the White House. Unless you've made prior

VIP

arrangements for a you'll

tour or Uncle Milt

is

a congressional staffer,

dome with 49 other Our advice: Go with the

be craning your neck under the Capitol

you

tourists as

listen to

your tour guide's

and enjoy the

jflow, relax,

tour.

spiel.

in

Wash-

major

tourist

But not everything you do while

ington has to turn into a group traipse. Question:

How do you avoid the big crowds

that clog the

attractions?

Answer: By organizing your

By charting your own

visit

course,

around things that

places that offer higher quality tours than the in the better

known

attractions. Often,

with small groups of people

more fun. By following your own coveries as

A

you

visit

who

interest you.

you get off the beaten track and you find yourself visiting

share your interests. In short,

interests,

visit

canned presentations given places

you have

you can make some intriguing

dis-

Washington:

collection of miniature Revolutionary soldiers fighting a

mock

battle

(Anderson

House).

A four-sided, colonial-era American Revolution

A tropical

mousetrap that

guillotines rodents

(Daughters of the

building).

rain forest located just off the Mall (Organization of American States

building).

A

space capsule you can climb into (Navy Museum).

Faberge eggs encrusted with diamonds (Hillwood Museum).

The tomb

A garden

of the only president buried

filled

with flowers mentioned

Washington (National Cathedral).

in

in

the plays of William Shakespeare (the

Folger Shakespeare Library).

A

pub that shows how

As you

many

travel

typical colonial-era

around Washington,

others that

most

Americans

lived

(Gadsby's Tavern).

you'll discover sights like these

visitors miss.

and

To help you on your way, we've

Plan before You Leave

selected

major categories and

explore.

As you read the

139

listed the best destinations for visitors to

keep in mind that

list,

Home

many

attractions overlap.

Museum appeals to both techthe Woodrow Wilson House is interest-

For example, the National Air and Space

nology and military buffs, while

ing to history fans, lovers of the decorative

how

the high

and mighty conducted

arts,

and

folks curious

about

their day-to-day lives in the 1920s.

African-American African-American

Civil

War

Memorial

Frederick Douglass

(Cedar

Museum

Anacostia

House

Hill)

Bethune Museum and Archives

Lincoln Memorial

Black Revolutionary War Patriots

National

Museum

of African Art

National

Museum

of American Art

Memorial

Architecture

Museum

Constitution Hall

National Building

Daughters of the American Revolution

National Gallery of Art (East Building)

Museum Hirshhorn

Museum

National Postal

Museum

Old Post Office

Pavilion

House of the Temple

Ronald Reagan Building

Kennedy Center

U.S. Capitol

Library of Congress (Jefferson

U.S.

Building)

Supreme Court

Union Station

Meridian International Center

Washington National Cathedral

National Archives

Washington Monument

Art Museums Art Museum of the Americas

(at

the

Organization of American States)

National Gallery of Art National

Museum

in

the Arts

National

Museum ofWomen

Dumbarton Oaks National

Portrait

Phillips

Corcoran Gallery of Art

Gallery

of African Art

Collection

Renwick Gallery

Freer Gallery of Art

Hirshhorn

Museum and

Sackler Gallery

Sculpture

Garden

Children Bureau of Engraving and Printing National

National

Museum

National Postal

Federal Bureau of Investigation

National Air and Space

Museum

of Natural History

Museum

National Wildlife Visitor Center

National Zoological Park

National Aquarium

Old Post Office

National Geographic Society's

Washington Monument

Explorers Hall National

Museum

Pavilion

Washington Navy Yard of American History

140

Sight-seeing Tips and Tours

Part Six

Decorative Arts and Antiques Anderson House

Mount Vernon

Christian Heurich Mansion

The Octagon

Daughters of the American Revolution

Museum and

Period

Rooms

Old Town Alexandria Textile

Museum

Decatur House

Tudor Place

Dumbarton Oaks

U.S.

Museum

Hillwood

Department of

State

Diplomatic Reception

Rooms

Gardens Bishops Garden at Washington National Cathedral

Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens Meridian International Center

Constitution Gardens

Mount Vernon

Dumbarton Oaks

National

Enid A.

Haupt Garden (behind the

Castle on the Mall)

Arboretum

National Gallery of Art Sculpture

Garden

Folger Shakespeare Library

Tudor Place

Franciscan Monastery

U.S. Botanic

Garden

Museum

Hillwood

Government Bureau of Engraving and Printing

U.S.

Department of the Treasury

Federal Bureau of Investigation

U.S.

Supreme Court

Ronald Reagan Building

Voice of America

U.S. Capitol

Great Views Arlington

House

(Arlington National

Cemetery)

Mount Vernon Old Post Office

Pavilion

Iwo jima Memorial

Washington Monument

Kennedy Center

Washington National Cathedral

Lincoln and Jefferson Memorials

Great Places to Walk When YouVe Sick of Museums Cathedral Avenue between Connecticut Avenue and Washington

National Cathedral

Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens

anywhere along Connecticut Avenue the bike path along the Potomac from the Kennedy Center to

Dupont

Circle

Embassy

Row

Fort McNair and the Southwest

Georgetown

The

Mall

National

Arboretum

National

Zoo

Georgetown

(Massachusetts Avenue

northwest of Dupont Circle)

I

Plan before You Leave

Home

141

Historical Buildings and Sites

House

Mount Vernon

Chesapeake & Ohio Canal

The Octagon

Decatur House

Old Stone House

Arlington

Old Town Alexandria

Ford's Theatre

Frederick Douglass

House

U.S. Capitol

Woodrow Wilson House

Georgetown

History Anacostia

Museum

National Air and Space

Arlington

House

National Archives

Bethune Museum and Archives

National Cryptologic

Chesapeake & Ohio Canal

National

City

Museum

National

of the American

National Portrait Gallery

Georgetown

Museum

Museum

Indian

Folger Shakespeare Library

Lincoln

Museum

of American

History

of Washington

Decatur House

International Spy

Museum

Museum

Old Town Alexandria

Museum Ford's Theatre)

(in

U.S.

Holocaust Memorial

Museum

Mount Vernon

Military

Anderson House

National Cryptologic

Cemetery

Arlington National

Smithsonian's

Black Revolutionary War Patriots

U.S.

Memorial

Museum

Udvar-Hazy Center*

Navy Memorial

Vietnam Veterans Memorial

Iwo Jima Memorial

Washington Navy Yard

National Air and Space

Museum

*A National Air and Space

Museum

Women

in

Vietnam Memorial

diat houses aircraft fronn botJi

World Wars, located at

Washington Dulles International Airport

Monuments and Memorials African-American Arlington

Civil

War

Memorial

Cemetery

Black Revolutionary War Patriots

Memorial Franklin

Delano Roosevelt Memorial

Lincoln and Jefferson Memorials

National Law Enforcement Officers Memorial

National World War

II

Memorial

Navy Memorial Holocaust Memorial

George Mason Memorial

U.S.

Iwo Jima Memorial

Vietnam Veterans Memorial

Kennedy Center

Washington Monument Museum

Korean War Veterans Memorial

Women

in

Vietnam Memorial

42

Sight-seeing Tips and Tours

Part Six

Outdoors Potomac Park

Chesapeake and Ohio Canal Great

Falls

Rock Creek Park

Park

Roosevelt Island

Mount Vernon Trail National Wildlife Visitor Center

Places of Worship Adas

Israel

Pope John

Synagogue at the

and Albert Small Jewish

Lillian

St.

Museum

Paul

II

Cultural Center

Church (across

John's Episcopal

from the White House)

Franciscan Monastery

Washington National Cathedral

Center

Islamic

National Shrine of the Immaculate

Conception

Technology National Cryptologic

Arts and Industry Building

Goddard Space

Flight

International Spy

Koshland Science

Center

Museum

National Building

Museum

of American History

National

Museum

of Health and

Medicine

Museum

National Air and Space

Museum

National

Museum

National Postal

Museum

Washington Navy Yard

Museum

Putting Your Congressperson to Work

A

letter to a representative or senator well in

months

is

advance of your

trip (six

not too early) can bring a cornucopia of free goodies your way:

reservations

on VIP

Supreme Court, the FBI, and the Bureau

tours of the

of Engraving and Printing that can save you hours of time waiting in line, as well as getting

tion,

you on

more informative

longer,

tours. In addi-

your eager-to-please congressperson (he or she wants your vote) can

provide timely information about hotels, restaurants, shopping, and special events. It's all free. Just

Here's

why you must

be sure to include the exact dates of your

send off your

that you'll be in Washington: Senators in the

Since

number of spaces on VIP all

the legislators get the

soon

letter as

as

visit.

you know the dates

and House members

are limited

tours they can provide to constituents.

same number of

passes, reason dictates

from Washington, D.C., the better chance you have of getting on a coveted VIP tour. For example, Mary-

that the farther

away your

state

is

land legislators, some of whose constituents can

Metro

to reach D.C., are often

for the

popular White House

VIP

and

six

tours.

But

if

Dakota, chances are your congressperson tions during your visit.

literally

five

booked

will

jump on

the

months in advance you're from South

be able to get you reserva-

I

Plan before You Leave

There

is

a

downside

early, usually

to the

VIP

tours:

Some of them

Home

143

take place very

before the regular, nonreserved tours begin. For example,

Bureau of Engraving and Printing VIP tours depart through Friday. The upside:

If you're

at 8

a.m.

Monday

touring in the spring and summer,

you've already resigned yourself to early starts to beat the worst of the

crowds anyway. Another myth shattered: The VIP tours ing in

line.

But the tours

require wait-

still

are longer and, unlike the unreserved version,

guided.

How do you reserve a VIP tour? Write a letter to your senator or reprehome

sentative at his or her tors, the

office or the

Washington address

is

For House members, address your tatives,

you'll

one

in

Washington. For sena-

D.C. 20510.

U.S. Senate, Washington, letter to the

U.S. House of Represen-

Washington, D.C. 20515. Again, don't forget to include the dates

be visiting Washington.

A Sample

Letter 25 October 2005

The Honorable

[your congressperson or senator's name]

House of Representatives (or U.S. Senate) Washington, D.C. 20515 (or 20510 for the Senate) U.S.

Dear Mr. or Ms. [your

During the week of visiting Hill,

VIP

Washington

and downtown.

congressperson or senator's name],

[fill

in

your vacation

to tour the I

date]

my family

and

I

will

be

major attractions on the Mall, Capitol

understand your office can make reservations on

tours for constituents.

Specifically,

I

would

like tours for the

White House,

Engraving and Printing, and the FBI during that week.

the Bureau of I'll

need four

possible, please schedule

our tours in

In addition, I'd appreciate any other touring information

on Washing-

reservations for each tour. If at

all

the middle of our week.

ton you can send me. Thanks in advance for your help.

Yours [

truly,

Your name]

Operating Hours By and large, Washington's major attractions keep liberal operating hours, making it easy for visitors to plan their itineraries without worrying about odd opening and closing times. There are, however, a few exceptions.

Of all

the major tourist attractions, the Bureau of Engraving

and Printing keeps the weirdest hours: closed open seven days a week.

in the afternoon

and not

144

Sight-seeing Tips and Tours

Part Six

Smithsonian museums are open every day from 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.

During the summer, hours may be extended into the evening if operating budgets allow. The Bureau of Engraving and Printing allows visitors to view its money-printing operation Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. and again from

to 2 p.m.

ticket system

is

5

Most monuments, on recommendation

is

summer

(a free

time-

and summer). a day.

Our

and Jefferson Memorials

after

open 24 hours

the other hand, are

to visit the Lincoln

up by floodlights, the marble edifices appear to float in the and the Reflecting Pool and Tidal Basin dramatically reflect the much more impressive than by day and a lot less crowded.

dark. Lit

darkness, light.

p.m. to 7:30 p.m. in the

in effect in the spring

—

It's

The Washington Monument now

has a time-ticket system that elimi-

nates long lines.

While many close

on

third

Monday

open every

sights are

federal holidays: January

day, a lot

1,

of Washington attractions

Martin Luther King

in January), Presidents' Day,

Jr.

Day

(the

Memorial Day, Indepen-

Day (the first Monday in September), Columbus Day Monday in October), Veterans Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas Day (when virtually everything except outdoor monuments and Mount Vernon is closed).

dence Day, Labor (the second

Rhythms of the City Although

impossible to be specific, the ebb and flow of crowds

it's

fol-

lows a pattern throughout the day and the week at major tourist attrac-

By being aware of the

tions.

general patterns,

the worst of the crowds, traffic congestion,

Mornings sights

is

are slow,

when

you can sometimes avoid

and long

and the quietest time

to visit

lines.

most museums and

they open. As lunchtime approaches, the

number of peo-

ple visiting a popular attraction begins to pick up, peaking

Then

around 3 p.m.

the crowds begin to thin, and after 4 p.m. things start to get quiet

again.

It

follows that the best times to visit a wildly popular place like the

National Air and Space closes. Conversely,

ural History during the

with a

visit to

African Art.

Among

Museum

when

just after

it

opens and

jamming

the

just before

Museum

it

of Nat-

middle of the day, expand your cultural horizons

the Sackler

They are

is

the crowds are

and Freer

rarely, if ever,

Galleries, or the National

Museum of

crowded.

Wednesday see the Monument, the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, the National Air and Space Museum, the National Museum of American History, and the National Museum

lowest

days of the week, Monday, Tuesday, and

number of visitors.

If

you

visit

the Washington

of Natural History, try to do so early in the week. Attempt to structure

your week so that Thursday, Friday, and the weekend sights that are

away from the Mall.

are spent visiting

1

Home

Plan before You Leave

145

IfYouVisii During Peak Tourist Season The key

to missing the worst

get a hotel close to a

what

is

An

Metro

most important

of the crowds

in spring

station, park the car,

for

you

to see,

and

and

and summer

leave

Then

it.

is

to

decide

get to those places early.

example: You've miraculously secured a convenient D.C. hotel

room

From your in-town window, Washington

in early April.

before you

—and

for

most of the

day,

is

laid

a view of gridlocked

it's

coaches, school buses, families in cars, angry commuters, and

out

motor

jammed

drawn by the Japanese cherr)^ trees in bloom along the Tidal Basin and the Reflecting Pool on the Mall. But don't rush out the door and join the throngs on their way to see

sidewalks. Everyone but the

the trees. Because

you want station

it's

early (say,

to see before the

and take the

10-minute

stroll to

the

By 9

is

7 a.m.), your plan

crowds

arrive.

is

So walk

Smithsonian

train to the

to hit the sights that to the nearby

station.

From

—and

Washington Monument

near the front of the line opens.

commuters

when

Metro

there,

it's

a

at 7:30, you're

the kiosk that distributes time tickets

a.m., you're out of the marble obelisk

and on your way

nearby Bureau of Engraving and Printing. At the ticket

office

to the

on Raoul

Wallenberg Place, pick up a time ticket for a tour of the money-printing facilit}^

that begins at 1:30 p.m.

From

son Memorial and those famous

At 10 a.m, you Space

Museum

stroll

as

a.m., you're back

museum

it

there,

it's

walk

to the Jeffer-

toward the Mall for a visit to the National Air and

opens. At 10:15, you join a

on your own again

guided tour. At 1 some corners of the

free,

to explore

that interest you.

By noon, and Space

the crowds are starting to

fill

the

museum,

so

you

leave Air

in search of a bite to eat. If it's a weekday, L'Enfant Plaza, only

one subway stop away from the Smithsonian eateries.

a short

trees.

Then

it's

station, has a

wide array of

an easy walk to the Bureau of Engraving and Printing

to see the stacks of money.

By 2

p.m.,

you have already

attractions during

visited three

of the world's most popular

peak season with almost no waiting in

line.

Now you

can spend the afternoon exploring a wide range of attractions that never

when Washington is besieged by tourists in the spring: Museum, the Vietnam Veterans MemoCorcoran Gallery, or the DAR Museum, just to name a few.

get crowded, even

the Freer Gallery, the Hirshhorn rial,

the

Intragroup Touring Incompatibility:

What The

It Is

and

How to Avoid

It

incidence of "Intragroup Touring Incompatibility" (members of the

same group having strongly conflicting high in Washington, thanks to the

city's

interests or touring objectives)

wide

is

variety of touring attractions.

146

An

Sight-seeing Tips and Tours

Part Six

example:

Some

people would be happy never to leave the National Air

and Space Museum; a

lot

staring at old airplanes

and

of other folks find that spacecraft,

it's

after

an hour or two of

time to move on.

Children, at the other extreme, haven't the patience or inclination for the reading required by the exhibits

all

hours of touring D.C. museums. In

and

fact,

out after a couple of

fizzle

even grown-ups should con-

sider a touring plan that puts reading-intensive attractions such as self-

museum

guided

in the afternoon,

and take guided tours

tours at the beginning of the day,

where you're spoon-fed information by

a guide

and you

can put your brain on autopilot.

A

touring plan

made up

before your arrival in Washington can help

your group avoid the worst manifestations of intragroup incompatibility. your group contains, for example,

If

linger at the National Air

on

to another Mall attraction.

where you can

all

a real

"Rocket George,"

and Space Museum while the

rest

Arrange a meeting place

let

him

of you move

later in the

day

regroup; both you and Rocket George will be happier.

Washington with Children Most adult visitors to Washington experience a rush of thrill and pride on viewing the U.S. Capitol, the Washington Monument, and the White House. And, for most of repeat visits

begins

on

us, those are feelings that

hold up well over

to the nation's capital. In fact, a fascination for the city often

a first visit to

Washington

in grade or high school

and can con-

tinue through adulthood.

The Ten Most Popular

Sights for Children

Museum

National Air and Space

1.

2.

National Zoological Park

Museum

3.

International Spy

4.

National

5.

Bureau of Engraving and Printing

6.

Federal Bureau of Investigation

7.

National

8.

National Geographic Society's Explorers Hall

9.

Washington Navy Yard

Museum

Museum

of American History

Washington Monument

10.

So

it

follows that

and stimulating else

of Natural History

one of the most

interesting, beautiful,

the world for children and

young people. Where

Washington

cities in

is

can kids see the president's house, touch a

tula,

and view

Luckily, lot to

a city

most popular Washington

hold an

moon

rock, feed a taran-

from the top of a 555-foot marble obelisk?

adult's attention, too

tourist destinations for kids offer a

—which means you

don't have to

worry

Washington with Children

147

about parking the kids someplace while you tour a museum. For example, as

your kids marvel

at the

dinosaur skeletons in the

Museum

History or feed that giant spider, you can be fantasizing over the

mond, Even tion

the

is

on

so,

a

Washington vacation with small

name of the game. Here

are

ton excite children of

all

and while there

ages,

and preschoolers, Washington's

delight toddlers

We

oriented to older kids and adults.

to consider:

of Washing-

thrill

are specific sights that

attractions are generally

believe that children should be a

mature nine years old to get the most out of popular attractions

fairly

such

Dia-

children, anticipa-

you need

things

Although the big buildings, spaciousness, and

Age

and

some

of Natural

Hope

as the

National

a year or

and other

Time

Museum

two older

If there

crowded summer months. Try ber, or

out of the art

monuments,

galleries,

around town.

federal buildings

of Year to Visit

of Natural History and the U.S. Capitol,

much

to get

any way to swing

is

to go in late

it,

avoid the hot,

September through Novem-

mid-April through mid-June. If you have children of varying ages

and your school-age kids

good

are

ones out of school so you can

students, consider taking the older

during the cooler, less-congested

visit

many

season. Arrange special study assignments relating to the tional aspects of Washington. If

your school-age children

can't afford to

miss any school, take your vacation as soon as the school year ends in

May or early June. ton vacation Building offers

as

late

Nothing, repeat, nothing will enhance your Washing-

much

as

avoiding the early spring and

Naps and Rest

more

off-

educa-

Your Itinerary

into

attractions than

you can possibly

summer months.

Washington

is

huge and

see in a week, so don't try to

one day. Tour in the early morning and return to your midday for a swim (if your hotel has a pool; see below) and a nice nap. Even during the fall and winter, when the crowds are smaller and the temperature more pleasant, the sheer size of D.C. will exhaust most children under eight by lunchtime. Go back and visit more attractions in

see everything in

hotel

the late afternoon

and

Where

The time and

to Stay

early evening.

hassle involved in

from downtown Washington and lessened tion.

if you

But even

Washington,

it

is

commuting

surrounding neighborhoods

to

if,

for financial or other reasons,

and

will

can afford to stay inside the District and near a Metro

be

sta-

you lodge outside of

remains imperative that you get small children off of the

Mall for a few hours to

unwind

its

the best

rest

and recuperate. Neglecting

way we know

to relax

and

to get the whole family in a snit and

ruin the day (or the entire vacation).

With

small children, there

Make sure you

is

simply no excuse for not planning ahead.

get a hotel, in or out

of Washington, within a few minutes'

148

Part Six

walk

to a

Sight-seeing Tips and Tours

Metro

station.

Washington, even

Naps and

from the

relief

frenetic pace

While

in the off-season, are indispensable.

of touring

it's

true that

you can gain some measure of peace by finding a quiet spot near the Tidal Basin to

relax, there

security of your

no

is

own

substitute for returning to the familiarity

hotel. Regardless

children too large to sleep in a stroller will not relax get

them back

Another

A

pool.

Washington

tions,

is

whether or not

of visitors to D.C. assume

necessarily so. lifesaver for

and

revive unless

you

your room.

to

factor in choosing a hotel

lot

and

of what you have heard or read,

both you and your

swimming

has a

most destina-

come with a pool. Alas, it ain't warmer weather, can be a

hotels automatically

A swimming pool,

it

that, like those in

especially in

kids.

So

dip

if a refreshing

important to

is

your family, be sure to ask before making hotel reservations.

Be

in

While we acknowledge

Touch with Your Feelings

that a

Washing-

ton vacation can be a capital investment (pardon the pun), remember that having fun

not necessarily the same

is

you and your children

start getting tired

What would

regroup. Trust your instincts.

Another museum;

room

for a nap?

some

a rest break with

The way

to protect

have a good time, whatever that experiencing every

museum on

irritable, call

now?

cream; going back to the is

You do not have

to stay

happy and

meet

a quota for

to

the Mall, seeing every branch of govern-

ment, walking through every monument, or anything tion;

time out and

really feel best right

ice

your investment

takes.

When

as seeing everything.

and

else. It's

your vaca-

you can do what you want.

Common

Remember the old saying about a The same logic applies to a family touring Washington. Somebody is going to run out of steam first; when they do, the whole family will be affected. Sometimes a cold Coke and a rest break will get the flagging member back into gear. Sometimes, Least

Denominators

chain being only as strong as

its

weakest link?

however, as Marshall Dillon would

Dodge." Pushing the driving

you

on

will

a

say,

"You

tired or discontented

flat tire: It

may

get

you

a

just

beyond

need to get out of their capacity

be sorry in the long run. Accept that energy

individuals

and be prepared

bers of your group

who poop

levels

vary

mem-

out. Hint: "After we've driven a thousand

miles to take you to Washington, you're going to ruin everything!" the right thing to

like

among

respond to small children or other

to

is

few more miles down the road but

is

not

say.

The best way to avoid arguments and game plan before you go. Establish some

Setting Limits and Making Plans

disappointments

is

to develop a

general guidelines for the day and get everybody

Be

sure to include:

committed

in advance.

.

Washington with Children 1

Wake- up time and

2.

What

149

breakfast plans.

time you need to depart for the part of Washington you

plan to explore. 3.

4. 5.

What you need

A A

to take

with you.

policy for splitting the group

plan for what to do

if

up or

for staying together.

someone

the group gets separated or

is

lost.

6.

How

long you intend to tour in the morning and what you want including fall-back plans in the event an attraction

to see,

is

too

crowded. 7.

A

on what you can

policy

afford for snacks, lunch,

and

refresh-

ments. 8.

A target time for returning to your hotel

9.

What

for a rest.

time you will return to touring D.C. and

how

late

you

will

stay.

10.

Plans for dinner.

11.

A policy for shopping and buying souvenirs,

including

who

pays:

Mom and Dad or the kids. Be

Flexible

Having

or sticking rigidly to Alter the plan

if

game plan does not mean forgoing spontaneity the itinerary. Once again, listen to your intuition. a

the situation warrants. Be prepared to roll with the

punches. In the worst of Washington's

Overheating, Sunburn, and Dehydration hot and

humid summers,

the

most

common

problems of smaller

dren are overheating, sunburn, and dehydration.

A

screen carried in a pocket or fanny pack will help against overexposure to the sun. strollers,

even

if

Be

sure to put

you take precautions some on children in

Some of the worst

the stroller has a canopy.

burn we have seen were on the exposed foreheads and infants in strollers.

To avoid

chil-

small bottle of sun-

feet

cases of sun-

of toddlers and

overheating, rest at regular intervals in the

shade or in an air-conditioned museum, hotel lobby, or federal building.

Do

not count on keeping small children properly hydrated with soft

drinks and water fountain stops.

Long

lines often

ments problematic, and water fountains more, excited children thirsty or overheated.

years old Blisters

may

and sore

make buying

plastic

feet are

refresh-

not always handy. What's

not inform you or even

We recommend

and under, and carrying Blisters

are

realize that they're

using a stroller for children six

water bottles.

common

for visitors

of

all

ages, so

wear comfortable, well-broken-in shoes and two pairs of thin socks

ISO

Sight-seeing Tips and Tours

Part Six

(preferable to

one pair of thick

socks). If you or

your children are unusu-

some precut Moleskin bandages; they offer the best possible protection, stick great, and won't sweat off. When you feel a hot spot, stop, air out your foot, and place a Moleskin over the ally susceptible to blisters, carry

area before a blister forms. Moleskin

ing blister until

too

it's

late.

more times

preschoolers two or

it

tell

by name

at all

drug-

about a develop-

their parents

We recommend

inspecting the feet of

a day.

If you

Health and Medical Care

pack plenty, and bring

available

is

Sometimes small children won't

stores.

who

have a child

in a carry-on

bag

requires medication,

if you're flying to

Washington.

A bottle of liquid Dramamine will come in handy to fight off car sickness or motion sickness, which can affect kids

may

but

A

are

normally fine in a car

most pharmacies,

kit, available at

small first-aid

minor

who

get sick in a plane, train, or boat.

and

cuts, scrapes,

splinters

and

children's strength aspirin or Tylenol, a

is

handle most

will

Grown-up and

easy to pack.

thermometer, cough syrup, baby

wipes, a plastic spoon, a night light, and pacifiers will round out a small

of health-related items for people traveling with children or infants.

kit

Be sure possible,

to carry

proof of insurance and policy numbers with you.

check with friends or

to get the

name of a

relatives before

pediatrician

who

you

leave for

practices locally;

of time thumbing through the yellow pages

if a

it

If

Washington

could save a

youngster should

lot

fall ill.

For emergency treatment, dial 911 or go to the emergency room of the nearest hospital.

Major D.C. Hospitals Children's National Medical Center I

I

NW

Michigan Avenue,

I

(202) 884-5000

George Washington University Medical Center 901 23 rd Street,

NW

(202)994-1000

Georgetown University Medical Center 3800 Reservoir Road,

NW

(202) 784-2000

Sunglasses

good idea lost If

If

you want your smaller children

and can hang from the

You Become Separated

down with your rated Tell

to

wear sunglasses,

kids

child's

a

neck while indoors.

Before venturing out of your hotel room,

and discuss what they should do

from you while touring a museum, monument, or

them

it's

to affix a strap or string to the frames so the glasses won't get

to find a

uniformed guard and ask

if

sit

they get sepa-

federal building.

for help. Point out that the

Washington with Children main entrance of most Washington where they should go

We them to

if

attractions has an information desk

they temporarily get separated.

suggest that children under age eight be color-coded by dressing in purple T-shirts or equally distinctive attire.

sew a

It is

also a

hotel.

The same

elegantly by writing the information

good idea

name, your

label into each child's shirt that states his or her

name, and the name of your less

151

thing can be accomplished

on

a strip of

masking

tape:

Hotel security professionals suggest that the information be printed in small letters and that the tape be affixed to the outside of the child's shirt five inches or so

below the armpit.

The Ten Least Popular

Sights for Children

National Gallery of Art-West Building

1.

2.

Library of Congress

3.

U.S.

4.

Pentagon

Supreme Court

5.

Kennedy Center

6.

Dumbarton Oaks mansion and museum

7.

National Portrait Gallery

8.

Folger Shakespeare Library

9.

Textile

Museum

Renwick Gallery

10.

Rainy days and Mondays can get you down

Rainy Days

on vacation galleries are

—and cooped-up

obvious choices during inclement weather

from the crowds), but don't entertained a

movie

at

children suffer even worse.

when

Union

to Alexandria's

boredom

you can

(as

to

cinema complex or take the Metro

Torpedo Factory, where 150 craftsmen work and

—shopping. Union

the Shops at National Place,

ping centers with

Station, the

Old

are

all

indoor shop-

you run out of

clears.

A

The

trip to

—even

best plan

someplace

The National Zoo should top

final tip that

ideas,

section for inspiration.

Of course, some attractions can bore active kids to tears raining outside. An entire afternoon in the National Gallery with a

their

Post Office Pavilion,

and Georgetown Park

interesting specialty stores. If

be deadly to eight-year-olds.

sell

And don't forget that age-old panacea

check the Washington Post "Weekend"

for their patience

tell

keep children

the sun doesn't shine or if you're museumed-out. Catch Station's nine-screen

creations Tuesday through Sunday. for

some other options

rule out

—even while

Museums and

the

is

to reward

really special

list.

it's

your youngsters

when

And you'll

if

of Art can

the weather

enjoy

it,

too.

can help you and your kids weather a storm: Stay in a

hotel with an indoor pool;

on rainy

days, kids love getting

wet indoors.

152

Sight-seeing Tips and Tours

Part Six

Washingtons Top 20 Tours With only a few exceptions

(such as the FBI),

it isn't

absolutely necessary to

join a group tour while visiting Washington's attractions. Simply explore

on your own,

letting

your curiosity and

egy works well in a large History

—dinosaur

museum

such

interests

as the

What

follows

is

a highly arbitrary

can be a nice change of pace to

it

have an expert lead you by the hand and

—who knows?—even

list

U.S.

Department

at

introducing visitors to

For addresses and phone numbers for the

their respective attractions.

1

listings in Part

fol-

Seven (page 179).

of State Diplomatic Reception

Rooms

advantages of taking tours that require advance reservations tour guides are top-notch.

enlighten

of guided tours that the authors

of the Unofficial Guide think do a splendid job

lowing attractions, see the

strat-

Museum of Natural Hope Diamond? Take

skeletons? an insect zoo? the

your pick. At selected locations, though,

you.

be your guide. This

National

The guide we encountered on

this

One is

of the

that the

tour of the

$90 million rooms housed on the eighth floor of this otherwise humdrum building really knew her stuff, from the art on the walls to the historical significance

of the impressive furniture that

fdls these spectacular,

ornate rooms. 2.

wandering the

from

Alas, post-September 11, visitors are prohibited

U.S. Capitol

halls

of the Capitol and must

arrive very early to pick

up

a

time-ticket for a guided tour (that day only). Stick close to your guide so

you can hear

his or her

comments about

the artwork

on

display

and the

history of the building.

Washington National Cathedral While wander around in, don't do it: Take the 3.

this

free

is

an easy place to just

tour.

The docent

(or

museum guide) who led our group of out-of-towners showed enthusiasm, a real concern for her charges, and a deep knowledge of the cathementioned the

dral.

She

tour,

which we stayed

4.

also

for. It

Library of Congress

who ing

takes your

group to

organ demonstration that followed the

free

turned out to be the highlight of our day.

by a knowledgeable tour guide the Jefferson Building's magnificent Main ReadThis tour

Room, one of the most

is

led

beautiful interiors in

D.C. And don't miss the

1 2-minute video that explains the mission of the world's largest library.

5.

Daughters of the American Revolution (DAR)

Rooms them

all

Our tour of the period rooms

on one tour) was led by a poised young

her history

—and her

handsome

building that serves as

decorative

arts.

She

Museum and

(there are 33, but

also

woman who

Period

no one really

sees

knew

was well informed on the

DAR headquarters: A special

railroad

spur was built to bring the massive, solid-marble columns on the front of the building to the

of bliss.

site.

For antique lovers,

this

tour

is

about two hours

I

1

Washington's Top 20 Tours

The

6,

The 45-minute

Phillips Collection

modern

in the

tour highlights the best items

and puts them

art collection

of the wealthy

in the context

museum. The guides know

collector

who founded

age to

together different art periods as they talk about the paintings.

tie

comfortable Phillips

and

tours are free 7.

Millwood

the

welcome

a

is

oflFered

Museum

guided tour was

contrast to Mall

their art

and man-

The

megamuseums. Guided

on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

Our

length

its

53

1

only complaint about the reservation-only

—two

hours. But

it

will fascinate

anyone

inter-

ested in the decorative arts, antiques, jewelry, porcelain, paintings, furniture

.

.

It's

the

.

may

visitors

list

also

goes on. But following Millwood's recent renovation,

wander

at will

a breathtaking collection,

on

self-guided tours; the choice

and

is

yours.

groups led by

you'll tour in small

knowledgeable guides.

Museum

National Air and Space

8.

Dedicated space cadets and

unapologetic Star Trek fanatics should take the (offered daily at 10:30 a.m.

the

main

lobby).

visited in the 9.

U.S.

It's

world

a

and

1

good introduction

interior

welcome center

to this sprawling

—museum.

Department of the Treasury

scenes tour

one-hour tour

free,

p.m.; meet at the

This reservation-only, behind-the-

lets visitors feel like they're really

seeing something special.

of the building was recently renovated:

through sumptuous

offices

in

—and most

The

and corridors restored

The

tour takes you

to their original,

mid-nineteenth-century opulence. [Note: For security reasons, tours have been suspended until further notice.) 10.

The Voice of America (VOA) We liked this small, off-the-bearenMost of the visitors who go are from foreign countries and lis-

track tour.

ten to Voice of America broadcasts at

home. (Listening

to the

VOA

in

the United States requires a shortwave radio.) You'll also see a four-panel

mural painted by noted

artist

Ben Shahn

in the early 1940s.

And

the

broadcast studios are really neat. 1

.

Arlington National

transporting visitors

Cemetery

Tourmobile does

a

good job of

around 612-acre Arlington National Cemetery. The

thought of trying to see

all

the sights in the cemetery

on

foot

makes our

The tour bus stops at the Kennedy gravesite, the Tomb of the Unknowns, and Arlington House, where you can linger as long as you like, since you have unlimited boarding privileges to the buses that come feet hurt.

about every

1

5 minutes.

The Kennedy Center This leisurely tour of the sumptuous performcenter and JFK memorial gives visitors a behind-the-scenes look at Washington's cultural life, as well as a chance to linger over some of the artwork donated to the center from countries around the world. The 3601

2.

mg arts

degree view of Washington from the center's roof terrace

is

a knockout.

154

The National

3.

1

Sight-seeing Tips and Tours

Part Six

{Note: Currently closed for renova-

Portrait Gallery

museum

tions, this

What would have museum turned into

sclieduled to reopen in 2006.)

is

been an aimless ramble through

this

downtown

art

tour. On a whim, we asked the guard at the information when the next guided tour left. The answer: "Whenever you're ready." So we received a tour from a docent who's the wife of an admiral and really knows her history. The moral: Don't be afraid to ask for the free

an informative desk

tour,

which

and from

is

1 1

on weekends 14.

at

11:15 a.m. and

A

Decatur House

early

by request between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. weekdays

available

a.m. to 1:30 p.m. weekends. Scheduled tours are also offered

Washington

to

1

p.m. Call (202) 275-1738 for

half-hour tour of this Federalist as the tour guide explains

life

what

details.

home life

brings

was

like

Stephen Decatur lived here in 1819. Upstairs, visitors get a glimpse

when of how

upper-crust Washington society, including President and Mrs.

Kennedy, were entertained by

later

Woodrow Wilson House

A

1

5.

primes you

where President Wilson

White House. He was

the only president to live

Washington

son's

after leaving office.

day-to-day

16.

Cedar

life,

Hill

such

basement kitchen.

The nineteenth-century home of aboUtionist Frederick Our well-informed guide provided a detailed commenlife

and

as Douglass's barbells

visit is

house tricity,

preserves elements of Wil-

a find.

on Douglass's

tary

see

is

The house

including an ancient movie projector he used and

his meticulously kept

Douglass

video narrated by Walter Cronkite

for a detailed tour of the house

retired after leaving the

in

owners of the house.

times, including pointing out intimate details

on the

floor next to his bed.

A late

afternoon

almost like stepping back into the nineteenth century because the is

preserved as

it

was when Douglass died

and the gathering shadows

"The Growlery," a

small,

in 1895: There's

in the house evoke the past.

one-room

structure behind the

no

elec-

Be sure

to

main house

Douglass declared off-limits to the household so that he could work alone.

The 45-minute

IT.The Franciscan Monastery

and

recently restored church

ful,

replicas

hair-raising stories of Christian martyrs told

But the

real treat

guide

you wind your way through a

1

8.

as

is

Mount Vernon

that give insight into

how

the slaves

vista has

replica

life

from a number of guided tours on an eighteenth-century plantation^including

owned by

America's

first

visitors get a

(the city)

makes

it

you should.

to

president lived. Plus, the river

view that closely resembles the

Not everyone who comes to Mount Vernon, located 16 miles down

one George enjoyed more than 200 years the Potomac. But

by your

of Roman catacombs.

Visitors can choose

been preserved and

Washington

tour includes a beauti-

of shrines in the Holy Land.

ago.

— Taking an Orientation Tour

1

9.

and 20-

After seeing nothing but sumptuousness

Gadsby's Tavern

foot ceilings in Washington's magnificent edifices,

make

a reHef to

it's

155

the

how average Americans lived and worked in the eighteenth century. The tour of this tavern gives a glimpse of how most people traveled, ate, and slept during the period when short trek to Alexandria and see

Alexandria was a major port 20.

—and Washington

This popular tour follows a rigid formula exe-

FBI Headquarters

cuted with military precision and features

good? The young sentations that plays of guns,

wanted" fire at

didn't exist.

women

lots

of static displays. But

is it

leading the tour recited a series of canned pre-

sounded memorized. Most of the

exhibits are inert dis-

drug paraphernalia, fingerprinting methods, and old "most

posters.

We suspect

the end of the tour

it's

weapons

the demonstration of automatic

—and —

agent talk and answer questions

the chance to hear a real FBI special that

makes

this

tour so popular. {Note:

Tours are suspended for renovations and scheduled to resume in

late

2005 or 2006.)

Taking an Orientation Tour Washington

First-time visitors to

but — "motorized

notice the regular proces-

can't help

sion of open-air, multicar tour buses

—

trolleys"

probably a

is

along the Mall, the major

more accurate term that prowl the streets monuments, Arlington Cemetery, downtown, Georgetown, and Upper Northwest Washington. These regularly scheduled shuttle buses drop off

and pick up paying customers along

a route that includes the

popular attractions. Between stops, passengers

about the

city's

towns most guide talk

listen to a tour

monuments, museums, and famous

The

buildings.

guides also suggest good places to eat and drop tidbits of interesting

and often humorous trip to

—Washington

trivia.

Our

advice: If this

Washington, take one of the tours early in your

Here's why: Geographically,

Washington

is

a spread-out

ing to hoof it to Capitol Hill, the Washington

is

your

first

visit. city.

Attempt-

Monument, and

the Lin-

coln and Jefferson Memorials in one day amounts to cruel and unusual

punishment

to the

body

—

especially

humid Washington afternoon and

a

your

feet.

few cranky

Throw

kids,

and

in a it's

hot and

a recipe for

vacation meltdown.

Think of

the narrated shuttle-bus tours that cruise Washington as a

special transportation system that not only gets sights,

The money you pay leges for that day, so later

you

but also provides a timely education on the for

to the

most popular

city's size

and scope.

your ticket allows unlimited reboarding

you can

get off at

bus (they run at 20- to 30-minute

privi-

any scheduled stop and reboard a intervals).

Washington Old Town Trolley

Trolley Stops and Ticket Sales

O

Union

Station

Capitol Arboretum

Old Post

Office/ American

National History

O 9 O Q O Q ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ (^ ^ 156

Museum

and

Museums

of Women in the Arts

Chinatown FBI Building/Ford's Theatre

Freedom Plaza/National Aquarium

The

NXTiite

House

National Geographic Society

Dupont

Circle

Neighborhood

Kalorama/Adams-Morgan Neighborhoods Washington National Cathedral Georgetown Washington Harbour Lincoln Memorial/Vietnam Veterans Memorial Arlington National Cemetery

Washington Monument/Holocaust Museum Air and Space Museum/Smithsonian Mall U.S. Capitol/Library of Congress

— Taking an Orientation Tour

The good

on

three guided tours that operate

Tourmobile, Old

Town

and Gray

Trolley,

157

a regular route in the city

Red Trolley

Line's Li'l

—

are

values.

•-Tourmobile

has the National Park Service franchise and shutdes

open-air, articulated buses to 18 sights

around the Mall, Capitol

Hill,

its

and

Arlington Cemetery from 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. For tour information, call

(202) 554-5100. Ticket booths are located at Arlington Cemetery, the

Monument, but you can board

Lincoln Memorial, and the Washington

at

any red-and-white Tourmobile stop sign on the route and pay the driver

The company

($20 adults, $10 children ages 3 to 11). tours to

Mount Vernon

(four hours;

$25

adults,

11; fee includes admission to the estate)

and

$12

also runs narrated

for children ages 3 to

to the Frederick

Douglass

National Historical Site in Anacostia (two-and-a-half hours; $7 adults,

$3.50 for children ages 3 to 11), mid-June through Labor Day.

Old Town Trolley takes visitors to the Mall, downtown Washington, Dupont Circle, posh Northwest Washington, Embassy Row, and Georgetown. If you're staying at one of the following hotels, you can hop on board and be dropped at your door: Hyatt Regency, Grand Hyatt, Marriott Metro Center,

J.W

Marriott,

Hotel Washington, Capitol

Hilton, Holiday Inn Capitol Hill, and the Washington Hilton. Tickets

($28 adults, $14 for children ages 4 to 12) can be purchased from the driver or at ticket booths located at

9 a.m. (10 a.m. Sunday) and run

information,

Gray

call

most of the

stops.

on the half-hour

The

tours begin at

until 5 p.m. For

more

(202) 832-9800.

Line's Li'l

Red Trolley

Mall, Capitol Hill, Chinatown,

features

Dupont

"hop on -hop off" Circle,

service at the

Adams-Morgan, Embassy

Row, Georgetown, Foggy Bottom, Arlington Cemetery, and the Waterfront.

The two-hour

the fare

is

circuit operates

on

a half-hour schedule year-round;

$31 for adults and $17 for children ages 3 to

11. Hotels

on the

18-stop route include the Holiday Inn Capitol Hill, Willard Hotel,

Mayflower Hotel, Washington Hilton, Marriott Wardman Park, Holiday Inn on the

Hill,

and the Renaissance D.C. For more information,

call

(800) 862-1400 or (202) 289-1995.

Hint: If you didn't drive to Washington and don't have a

advantage of Old

Town

Trolley or the

Li'l

Red

ton National Cathedral and Georgetown; neither tion,

and getting off now

car,

take

Trolley to visit Washingis

close to a

can save on cab fare or shoe leather

Metro

sta-

later.

Old

also offers a "Monuments by Moonlight" tour, which visits and memorials while tour guides tell ghost stomonuments illuminated p.m. at Union Station and last about two hours. Tours begin at 7:30 ries. The cost is $30 for adults and $15 for children ages 4 to 12.

Town Trolley

158

Sight-seeing Tips and Tours

Part Six

Other Commercial Guided Tours While Tourmobile, Old Town at shuttling visitors

and

Trolley,

Li'l

Red Trolley do

around Washington's major

number of other local companies offer more specialized run-down of some tours that are a little different. Gray Line offers a wide variety of narrated bus tours Washington. Half-day,

most popular

ington's

buildings.

Gray Line and

and overnight tours take

all-day,

good job

a

tourist attractions, a tours. Here's a

and around

in

visitors to

Wash-

including the Mall museums, government

sights,

Embassy Row, and Mount Vernon and Alexandria in Virginia. also offers a "Washington After Dark" tour to see monuments

federal buildings flooded in lights, a black heritage tour, trips to

Harpers Ferry and the Gettysburg

battlefield,

multilingual tours of

Washington, and tours of Monticello and Williamsburg. Tours depart

from Union

Go

you

for

more information.

DC Ducks tour. The narrated, 90-minute tour of

Washington's sights and as

289-1995

Station; call (202)

amphibious on a

monuments

cruise in a restored

1

942

features

DUKW,

30 minutes on the Potomac

created during

supply ships in areas that didn't have ports.

Gravely Point, where as

it

feels like

Union

for children

Station hourly,

4 to 12.

No

on boat

attraction

is

tours of the

The

cost

is

for adults

late

October.

and Water

Streets,

Mount Vernon, where

SW, takes The star

fall.

the boat docks

and you can tour the mansion and grounds. Call (202) 554-8000 or www.spiritcruises.com for information and

rates

on lunch,

dinner,

moonlight dance party cruises aboard an air-conditioned luxury

Odyssey III jazz brunches,

cruises the

Potomac River year-round,

lunch and dinner

and three-hour

trips feature live

to

overhead

jets

$28

Potomac River spring through

the half-day cruise to

II

reservations accepted; the tours leave

March through

Spirit Cruises, located at Pier 4, Sixth visitors

World War

tour finishes up at

you can almost touch the

they land and take off at National Airport.

and $14

The

cruises,

and midnight

visit

and

ship.

Sunday Two-hour

offering

cruises.

music, entrees and desserts prepared on

board by a four-star chef, and views of Washington from outside decks

and through the

ship's glass ceilings. Prices

person; prices for children under age cruises only. Jackets are

1 1

recommended

range from $38 to $92 per

are half the adult rates for lunch for

gentlemen on dinner

cruises.

Gangplank Marina, 6th and Water Streets, SW, near the Waterfront Metro station on the green line. For more informaOdyssey departs from the

tion

and

reservations, call (800)

946-7245 or (202) 488-6000; or go

to

www.odysseycruises.com.

The Cruise Ship Dandy

Old Town Alexandria for dinner cruises that feature after-dinner dancing. Sights along the way include the floodlit Capitol dome. Lunch cruises run from $32-$40 per person, dindeparts

— 1

Optimum Adult Touring

Plan

159

ner cruises start at $75 per person. Call (703) 683-6076 for information

and schedules, or

visit their

GNP's Scandal Tours

Web

who

about Washington and those not a sight-seeing tour

site at

www.dandydinnerboat.coin.

will reinforce every evil rule.

—and makes

It's

thought you ever had

comedy review on wheels

a

stops

predictably enough, the

at,

Watergate complex, the White House (where 494 of

Bill Clinton's close

personal friends spent the night in the Lincoln Bedroom), and the Tidal Basin,

where a powerful member of Congress once went skinny-dipping

with a

stripper. Seventy-five-minute public tours depart Saturdays at

a.m. and

1

1

p.m., April through Labor Day, from 12th Street and Penn-

sylvania Avenue,

NW Reservations are required; Web

more information or check out the

call

(202) 783-7212 for

www.gnpcomedy.com.

site at

Private charters are available year-round.

Bike the Sites

offers a

ton, D.C.'s history

and

new and

calorie-burning

by

architecture:

bicycle.

way

Two

to see

Washing-

licensed guides lead

daily tours averaging three hours. Bicycles, helmets, water, snacks,

necessary equipment are provided

Tour ($55) and the

Sites call

(202) 842-BlKE, or

Sites

visit

on the

and

all

Tours include the Capital

rides.

@ NiteTour ($35).

For more information,

www.bikethesites.com.

The Guide

Service of Washington, the oldest and largest in D.C.,

offers private,

customized VIP tours led by licensed guides. For foreign

visitors,

guides are available

who

speak your native tongue. Four-hour

tours start at $160, plus transportation, regardless of the size of your

group. Call (202) 628-2842 for

more information.

Children's Concierge designs custom itineraries for families and provides interactive ways for kids to get involved in Washington's cultural

and

historical sights.

call

(301) 948-3312.

This

is

not a tour service; for information and

Optimum Adult Touring An Optimum Touring itinerary, a minimum time), a surprisingly free),

rates,

Plan

Plan in Washington, D.C., requires a thoughtful

of

five

days in town

not including travel

(i.e.,

modest amount of money (most

and a comfortable

pair of walking shoes.

It

attractions are

also requires a fairly

prodigious appetite for marble edifices, huge museums, and historical trivia.

We will

provide an itinerary; the

With an Optimum Touring

rest

is

you can

Plan,

up

to you.

see the various attractions in

and around Washington without facing huge crowds on the Mall, in

restaurants

and shops

that are

jammed

to

capacity,

sitting

or trudging

through heat and humidity during sweltering afternoons. Since an

of D.C.,

it

Optimum Touring makes

Plan

calls for

seeing a lot of different parts

for easier logistics if you stay at a hotel that's in the city

160

Part Six

and

close to a

can

still

SIght-seelngTIps and Tours

Metro

But even

station.

if your

hotel

is

you

in the suburbs,

use the day-by-day plan as long as you can walk to the Metro.

some time commuting, but you may save some money on hotel rates. You'll lose even more time if you have to drive to a Metro station and park (see page 121). Once you get in your car and start driving

You'll lose

around Plan,

in D.C., you're defeating the

and

you'll

know

If you plan to

We repeat:

it.

purpose of the

Washington during the

visit

Optimum Touring

Don't drive in the busiest

city.

months

page

(see

29), you need to get up early to beat the crowds. Getting free "time tickets" for the Washington Monument and Bureau of Engraving and Print-

ing

is

basically incompatible

with sleeping

and enjoy your touring experience,

when crowds is

are smaller.

visit

in. If

you want

Washington

The Optimum Touring

in the

to sleep late

fall

or winter,

Plan assumes your

visit

during the busy season.

We and

do not

believe there

stood,

what follows

is

one

on what

basic perspectives is

is

ideal itinerary. Tastes, levels

of energy,

interesting or edifying vary. This under-

our personal version of an optimum Washington

vacation week.

Before You 1.

Go

Write your congressperson

advance

as far in

as possible for

on

tour reservations and a packet of free information

VIP

visiting

Washington. 2.

Determine which of the advance reservations,

make them

attractions that appeal to

select

one or two that most

for the afternoon of

Day 3

at the

you require

interest you,

and

same time you write

your congressperson. 3.

Read through sights that

ton 4.

all

your information and make an informal

you and your family want

to see during

list

of

your Washing-

stay.

Break in a pair of thick-soled walking shoes.

On-Site

DAYO 1

Arrive and get settled. Explore the features and amenities of your hotel.

2.

If you get tle,

checked in by 3 p.m., go to the Mall and

visit

the Cas-

the Smithsonian's visitor center. (If you're not within walking

distance, this

is

an opportunity to get familiar with the Metro.

Read our chapter on how Smithsonian

noon, you

it

station.) Since

may have

works and take the red

crowds

line to the

start to thin in the late after-

time to duck into the National Air and Space

Optimum Adult Touring Museum

Museum

or the National

Plan

of Natural History

after

161

view-

ing the orientation film in the Castle.

Take the Metro

3.

to

Dupont

Circle for dinner at the Thai, Japanese,

or Greek restaurant of your choice.

either the Li'l will save

DAY

When

you

get back to your

check with the desk to find the nearest stop for boarding

hotel,

Trolley or Tourmobile sight-seeing tours. This

Red

you time

in the

morning.

I

After breakfast at your hotel, board one of the sight-seeing buses for

an orientation tour of Washington. The driver

sells tickets.

Stay on the bus for a complete circuit, which takes about an hour

and

a half (two hours for Li'l

ets are

Red Trolley; Old Town

Trolley tick-

only good for one complete tour). You'll gain a good

overview of Washington's huge number of attractions, which will help you decide what sights you want to see this trip

ones can wait for another

—and which

visit.

For lunch, get off the tour bus

at

Union

Station,

an architectural

masterpiece, and head for the lower-level food court.

decide what stops you want to

Reboard your tour bus

at

make from

Union

Over lunch,

the bus this afternoon.

Station. In deciding

where

to get

off next, consider an attraction that's not convenient to your

On

hotel.

Red

Li'l

Trolley,

both Georgetown and Washington

National Cathedral are good choices.

guides

on the buses

rants,

and

tions.

Tour

On

Tourmobile, consider

hint: Some of the know their stuff regarding sights, restauon how to tour D.C. Ask them for sugges-

the Arlington National

Cemetery

tour.

Another

really

strategies

until dinnertime.

Return to your hotel. For dinner, take a cab to Georgetown. After dinner, take in a stroll

DAY

and some

nightlife.

2

L An

early start:

Get

to the

Mall by 7 a.m. and pick up "time

tick-

Washington Monument, and

White House, the Bureau of Engraving and Printing.

ets" to the

the

2.

After lunch, return to your hotel for a nap or a dip in the pool.

3.

Around 3 p.m.

Metro to Dupont Circle, where you can down Embassy Row, and stop in Anderson House, a sumptuous mansion and museum. Then have dinner in one of the many restaurants nearby.

window-shop,

take the

stroll

162

Sight-seeing Tips and Tours

Part Six

DAY

3

1.

Get

Spy

in line for the International

Museum

After breakfast, hit one of the popular Mall

tour by 8:30 a.m.

museums

before the

crowds show up: Air and Space, American History, or Natural History. 2.

on some of the best art galleries in the and the Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden. Or take the tour of the U.S. Department

After lunch, concentrate

world of

—

the National Gallery of Art

State's

Diplomatic Reception Rooms or one of the other

up before the

reservation-only tours that you set

hours off your the five-story 3.

feet

sounds

IMAX screen

Metro

Air and Space

at the

Take the Metro to Gallery Place take the

trip. If a

and

Post Office Pavilion for dessert

at

Museum.

Chinatown. Then

for dinner in

to the Federal Triangle station

few

movie

attractive, consider taking in a

and go

to the

a spectacular night

Old

view of

Washington from the 315-foot-high clock tower. Afterwards, go to a jazz or blues club.

DAY

4

1.

Sleep in from your night

U.S. Capitol (arrive at the kiosk by 8 a.m. to pick up

tickets), the

Supreme Court, and the Library of Congress. Eat

lunch 2.

on the town. In the morning tour Capi-

tol Hill: the

at a Capitol Hill cafe.

If it's a scorching

summer

day, consider

lunch: downtown's American Art trait

one of these options

Museum and

after

the National Por-

Gallery (both closed to renovations until July 2006) or the

DAR Museum. Around 4 p.m., and walk or take a cab

take the Metro to

to the National

from the many restaurants

in

Woodley

Woodley Park

Zoo. For dinner, pick

Park. Hit the sack early:

You'll be tired.

^

DAYS 1.

Either drive or take the 8:30 a.m.

Tourmobile

Potomac

to

River. If

you

Visit

estate

on the

drive, leave before 7:30 a.m. or after 9:30

a.m. to avoid the worst rush-hour 2.

Gray Line bus or the 10 a.m.

Mount Vernon, George Washington's

Old Town Alexandria

for

traffic.

lunch and more eighteenth-

century Americana. Stop in the Torpedo Factory to shop for

unique 3.

arts

and

crafts.

If you're visiting in the

tary

summer,

band concert. These

start

are held

your evening with a

on

free mili-

a rotating basis at 8 p.m. at

Touring Strategies either the U.S.

1

63

Navy Memorial (Archives/Navy Memorial Metro),

the steps of the U.S. Capitol (Capitol South Metro), or the Sylvan

Monument

Theatre, located on the grounds of the Washington

(Smithsonian Metro). Afterwards, take the Metro to the Waterfront station

and walk

to a

Maine Avenue seafood

restaurant for dinner.

The Red Line Tour things are really hectic

mind

spring and

worst

—

consider exploring a wide range of tourist attractions along the

Metro's red

line. You'll

some of the

still

see

can

see, station 1.

—

down on the Mall we especially have in summer weekends, when the crowds are at their

When

Union

by

avoid the worst of the throngs packing the

best sights in Washington. Here's a

list

cit)^

yet

of sights you

station:

Museum,

Station: National Postal

U.S. Supreme Court,

U.S. Capitol, Folger Shakespeare Library, Library of Congress 2.

Museum, National Law

National Building

Square:

Judiciar)^

Enforcement Officers Memorial 3.

Gallery Place/Chinatown: City tional

Museum

of Washington, Interna-

Science

Museum, American Art

Spy Museum, Koshland

Museum and

the National Portrait Gallery (closed for renovations

until July 2006), Ford's Theatre,

Chinatown

4.

Metro Center: National Museum of Women

5.

Farragut North: National Geographic Society's Explorers Hall

6.

Dupont

7.

Woodley Park/Zoo

Center,

Circle:

Phillips

Collection,

Woodrow Wilson House,

in the Arts

Anderson House, Islamic

Textile

Museum

or Cleveland Park: National Zoo,

Washington

National Cathedral (Both require some walking, however.)

Touring Strategies Attractions Grouped by Metro Station With

the exception of the

ing your

think a

visit

list

Red Line Tour, we

don't

recommend

around attractions located near Metro

stations.

structur-

But we do

of tourist attractions located within walking distance of Metro

stations can help

make

a last-minute touring selection to

fill

in part of a

—

morning or afternoon and maybe save you a buck or two in Metro fares. A warning: Although this list shows what attractions are closest to a Metro station, some sights could be as far as 20 minutes away by foot. An example: While the Foggy coln Memorial,

it's still

Bottom/GWU Metro

is

the closest to the Lin-

about a three-quarter-mile hike.

164

Sight-seeing Tips and Tours

Part Six

RED LINE The National

Brookland/CUA

the Franciscan Monastery (10-

Union Station

Shrine of the Immaculate Conception,

and 20-minute walks,

National Postal

Museum,

the U.S.

respectively)

Supreme Court, the

U.S. Capitol, Senate office buildings, Folger Shakespeare Library Judiciary Square

ment

National Building

Museum, National Law

National Portrait Gallery (closed for renova-

Gallery Place/Chinatown

American Art Museum

tions until July 2006),

(closed for renovations

Chinatown, National Building Museum, Washington

until July 2006),

Convention Center, Ford's Theatre, the FBI pended). International Spy

Museum

Enforce-

and Albert Small Jewish Museum

Officers Memorial, the Lillian

(tours temporarily sus-

Museum, Koshland

Science

Museum, City

of Washington

Metro Center

ment of the

National

Treasury, the

Museum

of Women in the Arts, U.S. Depart-

Washington Convention Center, the Shops

at

National Place

Swank shops on Connecticut Avenue, National Geo-

Farragut North

graphic Society's Explorers Hall

•-

Shops and restaurants. Embassy Row, the

Dupont

Circle

lection,

Anderson House, the Islamic Center, Woodrow Wilson House,

the Textile

Phillips Col-

Museum, House of the Temple

Woodley Park/National Zoo National Zoo, Washington National Cathedral, Adams-Morgan {Note: The Zoo is about a 10-minute walk; Adams-Morgan is about 1 5 minutes away on foot; and the Cathedral is a half-hour

stroll.)

Van Ness/UDC

Intelsat,

Hillwood

Museum

(20-minute walk)

BLUE AND ORANGE LINES Capitol South

Library of Congress,

House

office buildings, Capitol

Hill restaurants, the U.S. Capitol, Folger Shakespeare Library, the U.S.

Supreme Court Federal Center,

L'Enfant

SW

PlaA

[iiSEntftr^hc

U.S. Botanic Garden, the National Air and Space

Shops and restaurants, the National Air and Space

Hirshhorn

Museum and

Sculpture Garden, the Arts and

Industries Building (closed for renovation), National

Museum

of the

i^aajndian Smithsonian^^

The National

Mall, the Freer and Sackler Galleries, the

fuseum of African Art, the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, the National

Museum

of Natural History, the National

Museum

of

Touring Strategies

165

American History, the Washington Monument, the Smithsonian Castle visitor center, the Tidal Basin, the Jefferson Memorial (20-minute walk),

FDR

Memorial (20-minute walk), the U.S.

Museum, National World War

II

Memorial

Holocaust

Memorial, National

Museum

of the

American Indian

ium, the FBI National

temporarily suspended),

(tours

Museum

History, the

Post Office Pavilion, the National Aquar-

The Old

Federal Triangle

Pennsylvania Avenue,

of American History, National

White House

Museum

of Natural

Visitors Center, Visitor Information Center

Ronald Reagan Building)

(in the

McPherson Square

The White House,

the Washington Post building,

Lafayette Park

Farragut

West

Decatur House, Renwick Gallery, the Old Executive

Office Building, the

DAR -Museum,

White House, the Corcoran Gallery of Octagon

Foggy Bottorrt/GWU LS_

Art, the

the Ellipse, the

The Kennedy

Center, the U.S. Department of

Diplomatic Reception Rooms, Vietnam Veterans Memorial,

Korean War Veterans Memorial, National World War II Memorial, the Reflecting Pool, the Lincoln Memorial, the FDR Memorial, Georgetown (20--to 3t)-mi{iute walk)

Arlington NationalxCemetery

-eeia:^i«d.ED£LMemo rials

(across

Pentagon The Pentagon (closed

Arlington National Cemetery, the Lin-

Memorial Bridge) to visitors)

Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport

Ronald Reagan Wash-

ington National Airport

King Street rants,

Old Town Alexandria

(1

5-minute walk), shops and restau-

the Torpedo Factory (20-minute walk), the George Washington

National Masonic Memorial

YELLOW LINE Gallery Place/Chinatown

,

National Portrait Gallery (closed for renova-

American Art Museum (closed for renovations National Building Museum, Washington Chinatown, until July 2006), Convention Center, Ford's Theatre, the FBI (tours temporarily sustions until July 2006),

pended), International Spy

Museum

Museum, Koshland

Science

Archives/Navy Memorial

The National

Archives,

Memorial, the National Gallery of Art, the National History

Museum, City

of Washington the

U.S.

Museum

Navy

of Natural

166

Sight-seeing Tips and Tours

Part Six

GREEN LINE Washington's Potomac River waterfront area (restaurants,

Waterfront

marinas, and river cruises). Fort McNair, Arena Stage

Seeing Washington on aTight Schedule

Many

do not have

visitors

They may be en making

drive,

touring

is

days to devote to visiting Washington.

Such

visitors

may

live

within a day's

way, efficient, time-effective

later visits practical. Either

a must.

attractions or

five

route to other destinations, or

cannot afford long waits in

Even the most

efficient touring plan will

an entire day to the Mall (but not

car.

not allow the visitor to

the Mall, Capitol Hill, and Georgetown in one day, so plan at least

line to see

spend hours trying to find a place to park the family

just

on

visit

allocating

museums), and devoting

your remaining days to other parts of Washington that appeal to you.

One-Day Touring

A comprehensive tour of Washington a day trip to

off hinges

A.

Washington can be

on following some

Determine

What

in

is

literally

impossible in a day. But

a fun, rewarding experience. Pulling

it

basic rules.

Advance What You Realty Want to See

are the categories that appeal to

spend your day on Capitol

you most?

Hill. If it's exploring

If

government,

it's

museums,

visit

the Mall.

If you like trendy shops and a sophisticated ambience, go to Georgetown

or

Dupont

B. Select

Circle.

an Area to

For example,

if visiting

Visit

the U.S. Capitol

is

your

goal, look at

what other

nearby attractions on Capitol Hill or the east end of the Mall interest you. That

way you won't waste time and

steps.

C. Arrive Early! Arrive Early! Arrive Early! This

is

the single

most important key

to efficient touring

and avoiding

big crowds. First thing in the morning, lines are short at the Bureau of

Engraving and Printing and the Washington Monument's ticket kiosk. You can visit three famous Washington attractions in one or two hours that would take an entire afternoon if you arrived at noon. Eat breakfast before you arrive so you will not have to waste your prime touring time sitting in a

crowded

restaurant.

D. Avoid Bottlenecks Helping you avoid bottlenecks and big crowds

is

what

this

guide

is all

about. Bottlenecks occur as a result of crowd concentrations in the

Touring Strategies

1

67

absence of crowd management. Concentrations of hungry people create bottlenecks at restaurants during the lunch and dinner hours; concentrations of visitors heading toward the best

museums, and government buildings

known monuments, memorials,

create elbow-to-elbow

ing afternoons. Avoiding bottlenecks involves

crowds dur-

knowing when and where

large concentrations of visitors begin to occur.

In addition, daytrippers need to avoid the

make

tions to I.

the trip worthwhile. There are

Park Your Car

the

you

in

Metro extends to battle

stomach

On

D.C.

fills

traffic, as

well as saving

do

it:

you time, money, and free at

arrive before 7 a.m.,

limited to

is

New

by 8 a.m.);

to

Maryland and Virginia,

weekends, Metro users park for

suburban Metro stations

which

in

Beltway and beyond, eliminating the need for

to the

Washington

acid.

two ways

In suburban

the Suburbs

During the week, unless you

station.

agony of driving

they expect to have any fun and see enough Washington attrac-

traffic if

five:

any suburban your choice of

Vienna (on 1-66

in Virginia,

Carrollton (on the Beltway in Maryland);

Greenbelt (also on the Beltway in Maryland); Shady Grove (off 1-270 in

Maryland); and Silver Spring (inside the Beltway in Maryland). We recommend that you park at a Maryland station, unless you can make it to a Virginia station very early.

minute,

From

the outermost suburbs,

it's

about a 20-

Payment must be made vending machines in Metro sta-

stress-free train ride to the Mall. {Note.

by using a SmarTrip fare card, sold in tions or online at www.wniata.coni).

New Carrollton

has plenty of parking, plus a parking garage for over-

Take Beltway Exit 19B (US 50 west) and follow the signs to the Metro. Go to the second parking lot, where you can park all day for flow.

$6.75

(free

$7.50

all

station

on weekends).

On

day.

on your return

parking garage

is

If

it's

filled,

park in the

five-level garage for

weekdays, make sure to pick up a bus transfer in the trip to qualify for the

scheduled to open here in

low parking

rate.

November of 2005;

A new

the exist-

ing Metro park and ride here will be closed until then.

Greenbelt

is

an easy Metro station to reach for daytrippers from

more and other points Parkway south off at Exit 24,

ing

is

to the Capital Beltway,

which goes

is

go south about two miles and get

to the Greenbelt

$3.50 during the week,

Totten station (which

free

Metro

temporarily the end of the

ing

is

in the

$4

for the

day

the train to the Fort line)

and

which (free

takes

on weekends);

nearby garage for $2.50.

"Sam

you direcdy if

transfer to

you downtown.

has plenty of parking for daytrippers.

near Gaithersbur|, take Exit 9 (marked ast,

station. All-day park-

on weekends. Take

IredlinetrSmto Shady Grove, which takes

Shady GroveVlso

Balti-

north. Take 1-95 or the Baltimore- Washington

to the station.

the

From 1-270

Eig Highway/Metro Sta-

Metro

Metro park-

lots are filled,

park

168

Sight-seeing Tips and Tours

Part Six

Silver Spring

because

it

is

means

a

somewhat

convenient option for daytrippers

less

commercial parking close Beltway and turn

Take

by.

who

is

around $6

Taking the

Take the Train

and park

it,

in

one of the big

for the day.

train to

Washington

is

a snap for day visi-

Richmond

along the Eastern Seaboard from

live

plenty of

onto Georgia Avenue in downtown Silver Spring;

left

parking garages. Parking 2.

there's

US 29/Colesville Road south from the

follow the signs to the Metro, loop past

tors

But

a short drive inside the Beltway.

to Philadelphia.

Amtrak, Maryland commuter (MARC), and Virginia Railway Express trains arrive at

gleaming Union Station, located on the Metro's red

You can be on

the Mall minutes after getting off your train.

Station, visitors are only a

few blocks' walk from the U.S. Capitol, the U.S.

Supreme Court, the Library of Congress, the Folger Shakespeare and the newest Smithsonian

From

line.

From Union

Virginia, Virginia Railway Express operates

and Manassas

(to the south)

connecting Fredericksburg

Library,

Museum. two commuter

the National Postal

facility,

lines

(to the west)

with Union Station in downtown Washington. The 18-station system offers

inbound

service in the

Monday through

noons,

mornings and outbound

Friday. For

service in the after-

more information,

1001 or (800) RIDE VRE (743-3873) or

visit

call

(703) 684-

www.vre.org.

MARC train service operates three lines connecting Washington with the Maryland suburbs: one to

BWI

airport,

another to

downtown

Balti-

more, and the third goes northwest along the Potomac River into western

Maryland. For information and schedules for Amtrak, the national passenger train service,

call

(800) 872-7245 or

express

Metrohner information,

Amtrak

also provides

lines

used by

call

visit

(800)

weekend and holiday

www.amtrak.com. For

523-8720. By the way,

service along several of the

MARC and Virginia Railway Express

(but at a higher cost

than the commuter services).

Excursions beyond the Beltway If you've got the

sider exploring

time or

some

if your visit to

places outside the

west and the Chesapeake Bay to the

more, a look

welcome edifices

at

something

relief to eyes

and

Washington

that's

city.

From

east, there's

is

a repeat trip, con-

the mountains to the

plenty to see. Further-

made of marble

or granite can be a

wearied by the constant onslaught of Washington

office buildings. visitors

not

Washington

Here

are a

few suggestions for day

trips that

can make beyond the Beltway.

Annapolis Maryland's capital for more than 300 years, Annapolis quaint

little

town on the Chesapeake Bay

—

it's

is

more than

a

one of the biggest yachting

i

Excursions beyond the Beltway centers in the United States. Acres

and

acres

of sailboats

steady parade of sailboats moves past the City son, April through late

fall.

You'll see oyster

and old

is

packed with

ington on

US

visitors.

now

The town

nity for well-off Washingtonians.

shops, bars, and jazz clubs.

is

On weekends

The town

is

marinas.

A

that

work

the

sailing ships.

major bedroom

a

69

the sailing sea-

and crab boats

bay, in addition to pleasure boats, cruise ships,

Annapolis has been discovered and

fill its

Dock during

1

commu-

boasts fine restaurants, fancy

during the summer, Annapolis

about a one-hour drive from Wash-

50.

Baltimore Steamed

crabs,

H.

L.

Mencken, the

Orioles,

and the National Aquarium

few of the reasons Washingtonians trek north one hour on a regular basis to this industrial city on the Chesapeake Bay. Washington's visitors have good reason to detour and discover the charms of Baltimore. are just a

Daytrippers can explore the Inner Harbor, dominated by a bilevel

shopping mall

Aquarium

that's

heavy on restaurants and boutiques. The National

and

features a tropical rain forest

a sea

mammal

pavilion

—and

Aquarium in Washington. Kids will love the Maryland Science Center and nearby Fort McHeniy, where Francis Scott Key wrote the national anthem from a ship anchored offshore. If you've got the time, explore some other Baltimore attractions: the B&O Railroad Museum, the Edgar Allan Poe House, and the Babe it's

a

much

larger attraction than the National

Ruth House.

Shenandoah National Park Although Virginia

it

is

makes

for a long day, a drive to

Shenandoah National Park

a treat for outdoors-lovers, featuring

mountain scenery

in the eastern

United

some of

in

the prettiest

A drive along a portion of

States.

the 105-mile-long Skyline Drive takes visitors to a nearly endless series of

mountain overlooks where you can maintained

trails.

get out of the car

and walk on

well-

In early June, the mountain laurel blooms in the

higher elevations, and in the

fall,

bumper-to-bumper

it's

Washingtonians rush to see the magnificent

fall foliage. It's

as

hordes of

about a two-

hour drive from Washington, one-way.

Harpers Ferry National Historical Park This restored nineteenth-century town

doah and the Potomac Rivers natural beauty in equal doses. film about radical abolitionist here, an event that

in

at the

confluence of the Shenan-

West Virginia

At the

offers visitors history

John Brown's 1859

was a precursor

and

you can see a on a U.S. armory

park's visitor center

to the Civil

raid

War. Then you can tour a

renovated blacksmith's shop, ready-made clothing store, and general

170

Sight-seeing Tips and Tours

Part Six

A

store.

short hike to Jefferson

mountain view of three and two

rewarded with a spectacular

Potomac and the Shenandoah). Thomas

rivers (the

from Washington

car

is

Jefferson

view was "worth a voyage across the Atlantic." Luckily, the

said the

by

Rock

(Maryland, Virginia, and West Virginia)

states

is

trip

only about 90 minutes.

A Tour of Civil War Battlefields From

the

which ful

number of battlefield

War was

Civil

sites there, it

would seem

that the entire

fought in nearby Virginia, Maryland, and Pennsylvania

nearly the truth. Visitors with an interest in history

is

countryside can tour a

number of Civil War

sites

and beauti-

within a day's drive

of Washington.

Gettysburg, where the Union turned the tide against the South,

about two hours north of D.C. While the overdeveloped town

is

is

a testa-

ment to tourist schlock gone wild, the National Battlefield Park features a museum, a tower that gives sight-seers an aerial view of the battlefield, and many acres of rolling countryside dotted with monuments, memorials, and stone

The

fences.

first

on the

battle

It's

a popular tourist destination

fringe of today's

tlefield

Park

and worth the

drive.

War took place at Bull Run near Manassas, Virginia suburbs. The Manassas National Bat-

of the Civil

features a visitor center, a

museum, and

miles of

trails

on

the grounds.

The Confederate

victory set the stage for the next major battle, at

Antietam, across the Potomac River in Maryland. Antietam National Battlefield, near Sharpsburg,

On

War:

September

is

the site of the bloodiest day of the Civil

17, 1862, there

were 12,410 Union and 10,700

Confederate casualties in General Robert E. Lee's failed attempt to penetrate the

ton,

is 1

North. The 5 miles west

battlefield,

about a 90-minute drive from Washing-

of Frederick, Maryland.

A number of later Union campaigns are commemorated at Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania National Military Park in Virginia, halfway

between Washington and Richmond. Included fields

nia.

in the

park are the battle-

of Fredericksburg, Chancellorsville, the Wilderness, and Spotsylva-

The park

is

about an hour's drive south of D.C.

Helpful Hints

A Worst-case Touring Scenario Here's

how

family

car,

not to

and

visit

arrive

Washington:

around 8 a.m.

On

—

a weekday, load the kids in the

the worst part of rush hour.

Then

battle

your way downtown through bumper-to-bumper

at the

Mall about 9:30, your nerves thoroughly frayed. Waste a half-hour

traffic,

arriving

looking for a parking space before giving up and shelling out $12 for a

.

Helpful Hints

Monu-

space in a parking garage. Next, troop over to the Washington

ment, where a sign

in the

window of the

time-ticket kiosk informs

that the day's allotment of tickets has already been given out.

Museum, where

the National Air and Space

171

you

Then go

to

packed shoulder-to-

it's

shoulder around the most popular exhibits. Later, at the

Museum

National

of Natural History,

pears into the bowels of the paleontological exhibits,

on

agree

a designated

down. At

meeting place,

it

takes

Jimmy

disap-

you

didn't

since

45 minutes

you and your family stagger back

5 p.m.,

litde

and

to track

him

to the car, just in time

to join the afternoon rush hour.

Amazingly, people do

way. Instead of hitting Beltway

and go by

trip

But

this all the time.

it

doesn't have to be this

traffic at 8 a.m., leave a

any suburban Metro station and park. Then

to

train

downtown. You can be up

8 a.m. and pick

at the

half-hour earlier it's

a

20-minute

Washington Monument by

a time ticket while the line

Then

short.

is

pick up

tickets for a tour of the Bureau of Engraving and Printing later in the

morning

at the ticket

booth on Raoul Wallenberg

Place. Next, visit the

Museum. money being printed, eat lunch at the Old Post Office then take the Metro to Dupont Circle. There, you can visit the

National Air and Space After watching Pavilion,

Phillips Collection, a really classy art gallery,

sumptuous

or early evening, get

more

and tour Anderson House, a

mansion. Next, go to the National

active.

when

Zoo

in the late afternoon

the temperature begins to drop and the animals

Eat dinner

near the

at a restaurant

Woodley Park Metro

on Connecticut Avenue and then take the Metro back to your

The no

second scenario takes advantage of

two

car.

things: an early start

and

you

visit

time wasted in traffic or searching for a parking space.

It lets

at a leisurely

pace and gives you the freedom to explore out-of-the-way

and unusual

sights

smart way

to visit

you normally wouldn't take the time

to see.

It's

the

Washington.

Travel Tips for Tourists idea behind visiting any major tourist attraction

The you

can't

do

that if you're getting fatigued or crabby.

ing tips you should review before your

commonsense 1

rules for

visit.

is

to have fun,

Here

They're really

any type of outing:

Drink water. You'll need to drink plenty, especially on hot, humid, sunny Washington afternoons. Dehydration can sneak up on you and cause physical problems which might ruin your vacation plans. So don't hesitate to drink more water than you think

2.

and

some tourno more than

are

you'll need.

Avoid sunburn. Protect sun-sensitive areas of your body. Shade your head and eyes with a hat. Wear sunglasses. Treat exposed skin with a sunscreen lotion

—

especially

your

face.

And if you're wearing

172

Sight-seeing Tips and Tours

Part Six

sandals, don't forget

get a really nasty

your

Pace yourself. Washington

3.

shade and

rest,

You

feet.

don't have to go to the beach to

burn on the tops of your

with good places to

filled

is

feet!

and people-watching

in the

sit

part of the fun. Hunger,

is

overheating, tension from fighting the crowds for hours, fatigue

—

each of these

combine

to

someone

else in

of touring and

realities

produce

kids

fiissy

your party

make an

run a

effort to

little

your behavior. If you and your party rest

in yourself unless

self-check

you

—

not meant to be a

is

peri-

and think about

can't salvage things

and a food break, cut your day short and go back

hotel for a swim, a nap

ton

of them together can adults. You'll notice if

getting unpleasant to be around, but

is

you may not recognize the symptoms odically

all

and grumpy

with a

your

to

or a drink in the bar. Visiting Washing-

test

of your temper and patience,

after

all.

You're here to have fun.

Wear comfortable

4.

This especially goes for shoes

clothes.

broken

that cushion, shoes that are feet too hot.

Wear clothing

in,

shoes that won't

that protects

—

shoes

make your

you from the sun and

per-

mits the air to circulate around your skin and doesn't bind or chafe.

Use food

5.

don't let

strategies. it

dictate

Keep on good terms with your stomach, but your

while touring. Avoid lunch

lot

especially those at overpriced

museum

Travel smart with teens.

6.

Eat a good breakfast before you

trip.

out for the day, then snack a

off

on

their

own

Do

Arrange to meet them

cafeterias.

yourself and

for at least part

them

a favor:

Send them

of a day during your D.C.

at a specific

set

lines,

time and place, and

elicit

visit.

a very

firm and definite understanding about this meeting time and place.

hotel

Give them a watch if they number for emergencies.

GettingTouring Information In

When

don't have one, a

in

map, and the

Washington

1998, a Visitor Information Center opened in the Ronald Reagan

fall

Building and International Trade Center at 1300 Pennsylvania Avenue,

NW.

It's

the place to go for up-to-date information

hotels, restaurants, shops, cultural venues, ter

is

staffed

and

on

attractions,

tourist services.

by knowledgeable personnel and

is

The

cen-

stocked with free

brochures and maps. Also on-hand are interactive information kiosks,

and

visitors

can make hotel and restaurant reservations,

as well as

pur-

chase souvenirs.

The

3,200-square-foot center

is

located

Plaza entrance of the Ronald Reagan

on

street level at the

Building, across the street

Wilson

from the

Helpful Hints

Metro

Federal Triangle

station.

This newest of huge federal buildings (no

jokes, please,

about the name)

phones, and

rooms, and

rest

173

offers

an extensive food court, public

centrally located

is

between the Mall and

downtown. Hours of operation for the Visitor Information Center are

Monday through Saturday, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. The phone number D.C. Chamber of Commerce is (202) DC VISIT.

for the

Designated Meeting Places and groups touring together should designate

Families

a

meeting spot in

members get separated. On the Mall, good places to link up are in front of the Casde (the Smithsonian visitor center) or in front of the domed National Museum of Natural History. The information desks

case

located in

group

most main museum lobbies

Downtown,

separates.

to a scarcity of landmarks.

it's

are logical

A good

Where

for

not to have lunch:

down

the

hill

the

Metro

station.

Lunch

The sidewalk food vendors on

Museum

kiosk in front of the National restaurant

if

designated meeting place would be a

hotel lobby, a department store entrance, or a

A MoneySavingTip

meeting places

easy to lose your sense of direction due

from the

the Mall, the

of Natural History,

and the small

Washington Monument

charge about

a dollar more for a hot dog than the street vendors you see everywhere off the Mall. Unless you're dying of hunger, walk to either Constitution or Independence Avenue, find a street vendor, and save yourself some

dough. The hot dogs, by the way, are pretty good.

Where's the Smithsonian? It's

common

a

question fielded by the folks

who

staff the

information

desk in the Castle, the main visitor center for the Smithsonian Institution (phone (202) 357-2700 or online at www.si.edu). The query is

posed by first-time

the Mall. In

reality,

who

visitors

renowned museum complex

is

have the mistaken notion that the

located in one building

the Smithsonian

is

world-class zoo, scattered around the

a

somewhere along

complex of 14 museums and a

city.

In 2004, the Smithsonian

opened the $110 million National Museum of the American Indian on the Mall. In addition, the Institution operates the Cooper-Hewitt National Design

Museum and

Indian, both located in

when

New

the National

York

City.

Museum

(Some

of the American

folks are also surprised

they learn that the National Gallery of Art and the Holocaust are not part of the Smithsonian complex.) In the list

Memorial Museum below ities

is

by

an alphabetical rundown of the Smithsonian's Washington

location.

facil-

174

Part Six

Sight-seeing Tips and Tours

THE SMITHSONIAN'S The National

FACILITIES

Mall

National

Museum American History Museum Anacostia Museum and Center for African

(the Castle) Information

American History and

American Art Museum National Portrait Gallery

Freer and Sackler Galleries

Museum and

Renwick Gallery

Sculpture

Upper Northwest National Zoo

Garden

Museum Museum

National

Center

Downtown

Culture

National

History

Smithsonian Institution Building

Arts and Industries Building

Hirshhorn

Museum of Natural Museum

National Postal

Air and Space

of African Art

of the American

Indian

detoffthe Mall!

A

full

day of traipsing from

museum

to

museum

along the Mall

is

exhausting and, for most folks, a pretty one-dimensional experience. After a while there's

it

grade-school field trip

starts to feel like a

going to be a quiz.

Is

that a vacation?

the day and taking the Metro to any nations, including

Dupont

Or grab

visit

a cab

and

—and,

later,

Snap out of it by breaking up

number of other

Circle, the waterfront,

fascinating desti-

and the National Zoo.

Georgetown, Adams-Morgan, or the Washington

National Cathedral.

A Photography Tip Washington, D.C., with is

its

a photographer's mecca.

impressive memorials and federal buildings,

But

for a really spectacular shot of

downtown

Washington, go across the Potomac River to the Iwo Jima Memorial in Arlington, Virginia. Stand

on the

hill

near the Netherlands Carillon and

look toward the Lincoln Memorial. At dawn, the sun

rises

almost directly

behind the U.S. Capitol. At dusk, the panorama of twinkling includes the Jefferson

lights

and Lincoln Memorials, the Washington Monu-

ment, and, more than two miles away, the U.S. Capitol.

How to

Sneak on a Reservation-only Tour

at the National Archives For the behind-the-scenes tour of the National Archives, most people

weeks in advance for reservations.

and show up

at the

If

you

didn't,

Pennsylvania Avenue entrance (across from Eighth

Street) at tour time. If there's a cancellation or a free reserved tours

no-show, you're

begin at 10:15 a.m. and 1:15 p.m. daily and

an hour and a half

call

however, take a chance

On

in.

last

The

about

the reserved tour, you'll explore the building,

including book stacks, the microfilm viewing rooms, and the exhibits

— Helpful Hints

and models

show how

that

researchers preserve documents.

175

The

tour

ends in the magnificent Rotunda, where the great documents are on display.

For more information,

call

(866) 272-6272.

Getting a Free Pass to a National Gallery of Art Most people call that admit them

or stop by weeks in advance to get free "time tickets" to the wildly popular art exhibits regularly held in the

National Gallery of Art's East Building. is

that

Show

hundreds of

What most

of them don't

know

tickets per half-hour are reserved for folks like you.

Tickets can be picked up any day a

show

is

in progress. Just

show up by

at the ticket counter in the

noon on weekends or by 2 p.m. on weekdays main lobby and come back later in the day to

see the show.

An Informal Georgetown Tour of]FK Residences Structure an informal walking tour around

from the outside statesman once

only, please

lived.

As

a

—

congressman and senator, John

lived in four different houses in

1400 34th

The

last

Street,

address

is

NW;

3271 P

NW.

F.

Kennedy

Georgetown: 1528 31st

Street,

NW;

N

Street,

NW.

Street,

NW;

and 3307

moving to 1600 For more information, call Tour D.C. at

where the Kennedys

Pennsylvania Avenue,

Georgetown by viewing where a great American

a few places

lived just before

(301) 588-8999.

D.C. on the Air Aside from the usual babble of format rock,

country music radio stations,

Washington

is

talk,

home

that really stand out for high-quality broadcasting.

Washingtonians

Format All

news

listen to, as listed

easy listening,

to a

Tune

in to

below:

Freauency

and

few radio stations

StatiorL

what hip

176

Sight-seeing Tips and Tours

Part Six

How to Tell Look

the House or Senate

If

house of Congress

if either,

Mall, the Senate

to the left of the

is

Session

in

for a flag flying over the respective cliamber

determine which,

on the

gress

Is

is

right.

is

At

night, a light

is

of the U.S. Capitol to

From

in session.

the

dome; the House of Representatives burns on top of the Capitol dome if Con-

in session.

Avoiding the Heat on a Sweltering Afternoon

On

hot,

humid D.C.

between

sights; in fact,

all, if is

you can help

it.

afternoons,

it's

you shouldn't

On

imperative to avoid long walks

leave an air-conditioned building at

the Mall, one solution to touring

to visit this trio of museums: the National

Museum

Arthur M. Sackler Gallery, and the Freer Gallery. The

on

first

two museums

are built underground, so they're probably cool even during a

The

ure (dark, too).

three

museums

are

day

a hot

of African Art, the

power

fail-

connected by tunnels, eliminat-

ing the need to venture outside.

More good

choices that will reduce the possibility of heat stroke

include the Corcoran Gallery of Art, the Phillips Collection, and the

National Gallery of each other National

(say,

Museum

treks like a

walk

end of the Mall

7\rt.

Another strategy

Museum

the National

And

of American History).

to the Jefferson

to the other,

is

to visit

museums

next to

of Natural History and the

any ambitious

don't plan

Memorial from the Capitol, or from one

when

it's

scorchingly hot outside.

D.C. after Dark Touring Washington's monuments and memorials

dark offers dra-

after

matic views of both famous marble edifices and Washington night, the Jefferson

and Lincoln Memorials

float in pools

the steps of the Lincoln Memorial, the Eternal'

Kennedy

gravesite

Cemetery.

The

shimmers across the

river

Flame

of

itself.

light;

at the

in Arlington

scene at the Vietnam Veterans Memorial

is

At

from

John

F.

National a

moving

experience as people hold flickering matches up to the reflective black

marble surface, searching for names.

Capitol

Hill:

A

Family Affair

Rather than just getting in line to tour the U.S. Capitol, give yourself

and your kids

a real civics lesson you'll

all

remember: Visit your con-

gressperson or senator.

"Go

to

your member's office and get a pass to see the House and Sen-

ate in session," suggests a

and the kids

will love

it.

guard

at the Capitol. "It's a real experience

And while you're

there, ask for a special tour

the Capitol given by a member's staff person." are across

House

of

office buildings

Independence Avenue from the Capitol building; Senate

Helpful Hints

177

Avenue. Offices are open week-

office buildings are across Constitution

days during normal business hours, and you don't need an appointment. If

you don't know the name of your

your senators'

representative,

offices.

Where the Real Work of Congress Most

visitors

who

speech to a nearly

Check

open

The

scene

empty chamber,

ing a vote. Everyone else

ings

Is

Done

obtain gallery passes to the

are mildly disappointed:

done.

go to either one of

is

is

unless

House

or Senate in session

usually one

member

you happen

to

committee meetings, where the

at

the Washington Post "A" section for a

to the public, along with their time

list

giving a

stumble in durreal

work

is

of legislative hear-

and location (always

in

one

of the buildings near the Capitol).

Another Photo Tip Across from the Mall near the Lincoln Memorial

is

the stately National

Academy of Sciences on Constitution Avenue.

Outside, Albert Einstein's

waiting for you to crawl into

you can have your picture

statue

taken;

is

it's

a

D.C.

its

lap so

tradition.

Speeding through the Ubiquitous Metal Detectors Walk-through metal detectors

staffed

by no-nonsense guards

are stan-

dard equipment in virtually every federal building in Washington, including the U.S. Capitol, the Supreme Court,

speed your

way through, you should

change and keys metal detector,

in

when

visiting

one

dump

avoid the tedious

dozen times.

all

Senate and House

Mall museums, and the National Archives. Men: To

office buildings.

drill

place. it all

get in the habit of carrying

When your turn comes to pass

into

all

one of the bowls provided, and

you'll

of passing through the door-sized detector a

(You'll also find

government

your

through the

half-

out which metal-buckled belt not to wear

buildings.)

Women

your purse on the conveyor that shoots then walk through the detector.

it

have

it

easier: Just place

through the X-ray machine,

— Part Seven

Washington's Attractions

Where Visitors

to

come

Go to

all

Some want

how

different reasons. as

some

over the world

Washington from to see

cynics say, doesn't work); others

tory happened; and

many

are

—and

for a lot

of

the U.S. government works

(or,

where

his-

want

to see the places

drawn by the

city's

magnificent

monu-

ments and museums. It's

tough for a guidebook to decree to such

should spend their time.

Is

a diverse

group where they

the National Gallery of Art better than the

—

Museum? The answer is yes if your interests and tastes range more toward Van Gogh than von Braun. Because we can't read your mind and tell you the top places you

Air and Space

should

visit

on your

trip to

Washington,

we'll

do the next best thing:

give you enough information so that you can quickly choose the places you want to see with enough detail so that you can plan your visit logically

steps

— —without spending

and standing

a lot

of time (and energy) retracing your

in line.

Armed with enough

information to

make informed

choices about

how

spend your valuable time, you can avoid a common mistake a lot of visitors to D.C. make: hitting the Mall for a death march through a blur to

of Smithsonian museums, federal buildings, and monuments.

Time-saving Charts Because of the wide range of attractions in and around Washington from a 500-foot marble obelisk on the Mall to collections of modern art

—we've provided

the following charts to help

at a glance. In the first,

you

prioritize

you'll find attractions listed

by

your touring

type, allowing

you

you don't know its location. allowing you to plan effizone, listed by In the second, attractions are an authors' rating from find you'll each In area. cient touring in a given to locate a particular attraction easily even

if

179

1

80

one

Part Seven

star (skip

it)

Washington's Attractions to five stars (not to be missed),

and

a brief description of

the attraction. (Some, like the Smithsonian's Anacostia doesn't

have permanent collections

change.) attraction

A is

—

weren't

rated

Museum

—which

because exhibits

few of the attractions require advance reservations. Each individually profiled later in this section.

Where

ATTRACTIONS BY TYPE

Historic Buildings

Zone

and Homes (continued)

Jefferson Memorial

monument on

classical-style

Tidal Basin

memorial to

Lincoln Memorial

1

6th president on

I

Reflecting Pool

National

World War

II

tribute to "the greatest generation"

I

Memorial

Old Post Office Tower

a great

Roosevelt Memorial

open-air memorial to

Vietnam Veterans

U.S. soldier

Memorial

Go

(continued)

Description

Attraction

to

view and a food court

FDR

memorial on the Mall

I

I

I

Rating

181

182

Part Seven

Washington's Attractions

ATTRACTIONS BY TYPE Attraction

(continued)

Where

ATTRACTIONS BY TYPE Description

Attraction Parks, Gardens,

and Zoos (continued)

National Wildlife Visitor

to

Go

(continued)

Zone

Rating

183

1

84

Washington's Attractions

Pan Seven

ATTRACTIONS BY ZONE Description

Attraction

Zone

I

National

The National Mall (continued) Museum

of

(continued)

Rating

Where

ATTRACTIONS BY ZONE

Zone

Downtown

3

Go

185

(continued)

Rating

Description

Attraction

to

(continued)

National Geographic

**

high-tech exhibition for kids

Society

National

Museum

Women

in

classical art

by

women

***V2

Foggy Bottom

Zone 4

JFK Center for Performing Arts U.S.

modern and

of

the Arts

Department of

stunning performing arts center on

**

Potomac old-fashioned

museum

of parks, outdoors

Interior U.S. State

Department

Diplomatic Reception

Zone 5

decorative arts; reservation-only

•*•••

Rooms

Georgetown

Dumbarton Oaks and

mansion/museum and

a beautiful garden

*•**

Gardens

Zone

6

Dupont CirclelAdams-Morgan

Christian Heurich

lavish

Guilded Age

home

••*

House Mansion House

of the Temple

Masonic temple modeled on an

Islamic

Center

exotic

ancient

Meridian International

Center Phillips

Collection

wonder

mosque

2 mansions, galleries, gardens

•^ ••1^

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

186

ATTRACTIONS BY ZONE

Northeast (continued)

Franciscan Monastery U.S.

Rating

Description

Attraction

Zone 8

(continued)

National Arboretum

Zone 9

Southeast

Anacostia

Museum

Frederick Douglass

restored church, catacombs, garden

**

444-acre collection of trees, flowers, herbs

**V2

African-American history and culture

N/A

preserved Victorian mansion

***V2

National Historic Site national park for

Kenilworth Aquatic

***

water plants

Gardens Washington Navy Yard

3 military

museums and

U.S.

**i/2

Navy

destroyer; advance reservation only

Zone

Maryland Suburbs

10

NASA/Godard

space

National Cryptologic

NSA

flight

**V2

museum

*

spook museum

Museum

museum on

National Wildlife Visitor

1

**V2

3,000-acre wildlife refuge

Center

Zone

Virginia

1 1

Suburbs

MountVernon

George Washington's

Old Town Alexandria

restored colonial port town

Zone

1:

***** ****

river plantation

The National Mall

Arlington National

Cemetery

Type of Attraction The

largest military

cemetery

in

the United States (Guided and

self-guided tours)

Location Across the Potomac from Washington

via Arlington

Memorial Bridge, which

crosses the river near the Lincoln Memorial

Nearest Metro Station

Admission

Arlington

Cemetery

Free

Hours

Daily, April-September,

Phone

(703) 607-8000

8 a.m.-7 p.m.; October-March, 8 a.m.-5 p.m.

Web site www.arlingtoncemetery.org When to Go Before 9 a.m. in spring and Comments

Special noons;

in

hot weather, get here

Overall Appeal by Age Preschool

Grade school

summer

Don't underestimate the ferocity of Washington

*

**

summer

after-

early.

Group |

|

Teens

Young

*** ****

adults

|

Over 30

|

Seniors

**** ****

Zone l:The National

Description and tery

mere

to Allow 2 hours

Comments

sight-seeing; as

men and women John

187

****

Author's Rating Beyond tourism.

How Much Time

Mall

It's

not

Americans, our

to

fair

call

a visit to Arlington National

Ceme-

are too intimately attached to the 200,000

lives

buried here. They include the famous, the obscure, and the unknown:

Kennedy. General George C. Marshall, Joe Louis, Abner Doubleday, and Oliver

F.

Wendell Holmes are among them. include the

Tomb

of the

612

Sights located in the cemetery's

Unknowns (guarded 24 hours

rolling acres

a day; witness the changing of the

guard on the hour from October to March, and on the half-hour the rest of the year),

memorials to the crew of the space shuttle and Arlington House, Arlington

built in

1

802.

Cemetery should be on every To avoid the worst

Touring Tips

Rescue Mission Memorial,

Challenger, the Iran

With the ease of touring provided by Tourmobile, first-time visitor's

of things to see.

list

summer

of Washington's brutal

heat and humidity,

plan to arrive as early as possible. Private cars are not allowed inside, but there's plenty

of parking near the visitor center at $ .25 an hour for the 1

Metro

hour. Take the

instead.

own, the narrated Tourmobile tour feet

—and

at

is

informative and saves

$6 for adults and $3 for children under age

allows you to get off at

all

leave the visitor center

first

three hours, then $2 an

Although you can wander around the cemetery on your

12,

wear and tear on your

it's

a

good

(where tickets are sold) about every 15 to 20 minutes.

touring the Mall by Tourmobile, transferring to the cemetery tour only.

If

is

you want to tour the cemetery by shuttle bus on a different

for another full-circuit ticket Just take the

walk the short distance to the

few bucks.

when

in

If

you're

free for that day

day, don't

pay $20

Metro to the Arlington Cemetery

station,

visitor center,

bathrooms are located

Finally,

ton Cemetery

deal. The ticket

the major sites and reboard at your leisure. The shuttle tours

buy the cemetery-only

ticket,

the visitor center. But don't

and save a

come

to Arling-

you're hungry:There's no place to eat.

OtherThings to Do Nearby

The Pentagon

is

the next stop on the Metro.The Iwo

Jima Memorial and the Netherlands Carillon are about a 20-minute walk from Arling-

ton House (down Custis Walk and through Weiael Gate). The nearest restaurants via the Metro are

Rosslyn and Pentagon City.

in

Bureau of Engraving and Printing Type of Attraction The

presses that print U.S. currency and stamps (Guided tour)

(Temporarily closed to tours per

Location Raoul Wallenberg

Homeland

Security.)

Place (formerly

1

5th Street) and

C

Street,

SW

(2 blocks

south of the Mall)

Nearest Metro Station Smithsonian

Admission

Free

Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. and (May-August only) 5-7 p.m. Closed on

Hours

weekends. The ticket

federal holidays and

opens

at 8 a.m. First

come,

first

office,

October-February, no tickets are required;

A valid allowed. Go to Street.

Phone

ID

required.

is

No

up

at the visitor

entrance on 14th

the 14th Street side of the building to enter.

(202) 874-30 9 or (202) 874-3 88 for a recording 1

1

to

earlier)

and pick up tickets at the ticket

Special

is

line

bookbags, backpacks, or any sharp objects are

When

down

located on Raoul Wallenberg Place,

served and tickets are usually gone by 9 a.m. From

Go

The

earlier,

Comments

into the press

the better During peak season, try to arrive by 8 a.m. (or office.

See "Hours" above.

may have trouble looking over the ledge and rooms below. When the Department of Homeland Security level

elevated to "orange,"

Small children

all

general public tours are cancelled.

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

188

Overall Appeal by Age

Group

Preschool •• Grade school ****

Teens

|

Young

|

•••• ****

adults

Author's Rating After the novelty of seeing plant.

Over 30

|

Seniors

that cash fades,

•••• ****

just a printing

It's

**

How Much Time to Allow early

all

|

fall,

2 hours.

About an hour when the

ticket

system

is

in effect. In

when the line snakes out the front door and up 14th Street, figure on at Count on about 15 minutes for every 100 people ahead of you in line.

Description and

Comments

This

is

the

least

a 35- to 45-minute guided tour through the

rather cramped and elevated glass-lined corridors that go over the government's

immense money and stamp printing plant. Visitors look down and gape at the printing presses that crank out the dough and at pallets of greenbacks in various stages of completion.The sign some wag hung on a press, however, says it all:"You have never been so close yet so far away." Kids love this place, so hitting,

even

if

you're only

Touring Tips spring and

in

town

Arrive early

—

summer, get to the

ticket office distributes

between 9 a.m. and

this

money

tour, contact

is

ticket

When

come back

Raoul Wallenberg Place, where you

30-minute grace period

a tourist site families should plan on

one of

D.C.'s

most popular

if

in

at

ten-minute intervals

tickets are gone, the ticket office closes. After

all

for your tour and

meet near the

ticket office

on

be escorted into the building. You have about a

will

you're running

for sale

attractions. In early

booth before 8 a.m. to avoid disappointment. The

about 80 tickets for every tour starting

1:40 p.m.

picking up your tickets,

of shredded

it's

for a short period.

late.

For a unique souvenir, check out the bags

the visitor center at the end of the tour For a VIP guided

your congressperson's

office at least

Monday through

tours are conducted at 8 a.m.,

two months before your Friday.

trip.The VIP

Bathrooms are located

inside

on Raoul Wallenberg

Place,

the building where the tour begins.

Other Things to Do Nearby the Tidal Basin

is

a short

calming effect of water

As you

walk to the

make

it

exit the building

left:

Benches, tables, a lot of greenery, and the

a great spot to

unwind or eat lunch

boat. And there's a great view of the Jefferson Memorial.

Other

—or

rent a paddle-

sights close at

hand are

Museum, the Washington Monument, the new National World Memorial, and the seven-and-a-half-acre memorial to President Franklin D. Roo-

the Holocaust Memorial

War

II

The $52 million series of gardens, sculptures, and granite walls are located between the Lincoln and Jefferson Memorials along the Potomac River and the Tidal Basin.There aren't a lot of places to eat nearby, however sevelt.

Corcoran Gallery of Art Type of Attraction A museum

that primarily features

American

art

from the

colonial

period to the present (Self-guided tour)

Location

1

7th and E Streets,

Nearest Metro Stations

Admission $7 for families. Free

W

on Mondays and

Hours Wednesday-Monday,

west of the White House

after 5 p.m.

1

on Thursdays.

10 a.m.-5 p.m.;Thursday, 10 a.m.-9 p.m.; closed Tuesdays,

New Year's

Day.

(202) 639-1700 or (888)

Web site

a half-block

for adults, $5 for seniors and students, $3 for students 13-18, and $

Christmas Day, and

Phone

N

Farragut West and Farragut North

www.corcoran.org

Corcoran

(toll

free)

Zone :The National I

When

Go Anytime Comments Free

Mall

1

89

to

Special

45-minute tours are offered

daily at

noon, Thursdays at

7:30 p.m., and Saturdays and Sundays at 10:30 a.m. and 2:30 p.m.

Overall Appeal by Age

Group

—

Preschool

Teens

|

*

Grade school

Young

|

Author's Rating Art snobs

will feel at

How Much Time

to Allow 2 hours

Description and

Comments

"the best designed building

Mary

Cassatt. and

Winslow Homer, among

Maybe

a distinctly serious

it's

It's

tory.

leisurely

more first-class museum shop. It's

art

—

I

this

beaux arts museum

others. There's also an abundance of cut-

wide range of periods and

in

styles,

like.

not a place to drag

bones

in

little

the National

museum has Sally, who

this

Johnny and

Museum

of Natural His-

excursion, take this Smithsonian staffer's sug-

the Corcoran's stunning cafe. Afterwards, take a

museum and

then

stroll

over to the Renwick Gallery for

some shopping in the Renwick's excellent and you won't be battling laid-back way to spend the day mega-museums on the Mall. The Corcoran's cafe hours are

and, perhaps,

a great,

the crowds besieging the I

It's

museum

with brunch

tour of the art

••• ***

-k-kVi

a big place with a

at dinosaur

For a delightful Sunday

gestion: Begin

Seniors

because of the art school next door, but

atmosphere.

would rather be looking

Over 30

|

Frank Lloyd Wright called

so you're bound to see something you

TouringTips

home.

|

Washington." Inside are works by John Singer Sargent,

in

ting-edge contemporary art.

••

adults **'/2

.

a.m. to 2 p.m. (and 8 p.m.

.

.

on Thursdays). Reservations are suggested;

call

(202)

639-1786.

OtherThings to Do Nearby enter a rain forest: A courtyard

Duck filled

into the Organization of American States and

with palm trees and the sound of

falling

water

awaits you. Walk up the staircase and peek into the opulent Hall of the Americas. The

Octagon, one of the earliest Federal-period houses

in

the United States,

is

a block to

the east; Dolley Madison entertained there after the Brits burned the White in

1814. For lunch, stroll up

around the corner on

G

Another block north

McDonald's.

is

Street, can supply a

sandwich and drink for

Daughters of the American Revolution (DAR) Type of Attraction The 33 period rooms are antiques (Self-guided museum tour and a guided Location

1

776

D

Street,

House

17th Street toward Pennsylvania Avenue. Le Sorbet,

NW, across

from the

less

than $5.

Museum

a cornucopia of decorative arts and tour) Ellipse

Nearest Metro Station FarragutWest

Admission

Hours

Free

Monday-Friday, 9:30 a.m.-4 p.m.; Saturday, 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m. The

closed on Sunday, federal government holiday weekends, and for the July.

p.m.,

Guided tours of the period rooms are

available

first

museum

is

2 weeks

in

Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.-2:30

and Saturday, 9 a.m.—4:30 p.m. Tours leave approximately every 45 minutes.

Phone (202)879-3241

Web site v/v^w.dar.org When to Go Anytime

1

90

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

Comments

Special

the rooms, and only

Expect to do a

two or three

on the

lot of stair climbing

visitors at a

tour. You can't enter

time can squeeze into doorways to peer

inside.

Overall Appeal by Age

Group

—

Preschool

Teens •••1/2

|

Grade school

*

Young

|

Author's Rating

A

How Much Time

to Allow 2 hours

Description and

Comments

adults

Over 30 •••1/2

[

**

must-see for lovers of antiques and decorative

railroad spur

was

to transport

built

them to the

predictably enough, emphasizes the role of

women

building site.

museum

a small

rior of a California

adobe parlor of 850, to a 1

display objects in a

in

1910,

is

a

solid marble; a spe-

DAR Museum,

The

silver,

costumes, and tex-

with everyday items out of America's past. From the

filled

replica of a 1775

bedchamber

Oklahoma farm

Massachusetts, to the kitchen of a nineteenth-century

rooms

***y2

throughout American history and

includes fine examples of furniture, ceramics, glass, paintings, tiles. It's

arts.

This beaux arts building, completed

knockout.The huge columns that grace the front of the building are cial

****V2

Seniors

|

context of both time and place. Kids

will

inte-

in

Lexington,

family,

the period

get a kick out of the

four-sided mousetrap that guillotines rodents, the foot-controlled toaster, and the

sausage stuffer that looks

an early nineteenth-century version of a NordicTrack

like

machine.

To make the museum more

attractive to children

period-rooms tour, docents drop kids their parents tour nearby period

off at

accompanying parents on the

the Touch Area on the third floor While

rooms, kids can play with authentic eighteenth- and

nineteenth-century toys and objects, including miniature Chippendale tables and chairs,

powder horns, butter molds, candle snuffers, and flags. The museum and period rooms are sleepers that a lot of visitors to Washington overlook. But for lovers of antiques and decorative arts, the rooms provide visitors an opportunity to view beaureal

tiful

objects

in

authentic period settings.

Touring Tips easy enough to

down D

Finding the entrance find.

Street; the

At

D

is

a bit tough, although the

and 17th (across from the

Ellipse),

DAR

building itself

walk about

half a

is

block

museum and tour entrance is on the side of the building. During the room tours can get crowded, especially on Satur-

busy spring and summer, the period day,

so try to arrive before noon.

OtherThlngs to Do Nearby

Walk up the marble

steps and into the American

Cross building to see the Memorial Windows, reputed to be the largest

windows

still in

their original location (except for

to the sick and wounded. can States building

is

in

churches). Their

Next door to DAR, the lobby

a bit of a tropical paradise;

Red

suite of Tiffany

theme

is

ministry

of the Organization of Ameri-

around back

is

the Art

Museum

of the

Americas, a small gallery featuring art from Latin America and the Caribbean (open

Tuesday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; admission

toward Pennsylvania Avenue to

is

free).

Head up

17th Street

find a large selection of restaurants.

Decatur House Type of Attraction One

of Washington's earliest surviving important residences

(Guided tour)

Location 748 Jackson

Place,

Nearest Metro Stations

Admission

Free

NW, across

from Lafayette Park

Farragut West, Farragut North

Zone :The National I

Hours

noon—4

Tuesday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sunday,

p.m. Closed

Mall

191

Mondays and

Thanksgiving and Christmas Days.

Phone

(202) 842-0920

Web site www.decaturhouse.org When to Go Anytime Comments

Special

Overall Appeal by Preschool

involves descending a steep, curving staircase.

Age Group

•

Grade school

Young

|

interesting yet

to Allow

adults

narrow

Over 30

|

**

slice

he hadn't been

If

doubt he

Decatur was

Stephen

killed in a duel,

house

built this

White House. The

in

some

naval

a

bell?)

say he might have

1819 with presidential aspirations

floor

first

**V2

of early Americana.

defeated the Barbary pirates off the shores of Tripoli (ring a 1812.

••

Seniors **!/2

|

hour

I

Comments

Description and

•

Teens

|

*

Author's Rating An

How Much Time

The tour

is

decorated

in

in

war hero who

during the

War

been president.

mind:

of

No

close to the

It's

authentic Federalist style and displays

Decatur's furnishings and sword. The formal parlors on the second floor reflect a later Victorian restyling.

Famous statesmen who resided

in

the building include Henry Clay,

Martin Van Buren.and Edward Livingston.

Touring Tips time. But

it's

you're on a tight schedule, this

If

isn't

the place to be blowing your

an okay rainy-afternoon alternative that gives insight into the early days of

Washington.

OtherThings to Do Nearby

The Renwick Gallery

Avenue; next to

House, where foreign

sylvania

it is

Blair

is

around the corner on Penn-

dignitaries stay.

faces Lafayette Park, frequent site of political demonstrations,

homeless, and predictably

Freer

and Sackler

filled

with statues. Across the street

the White House.

Galleries of Art (Smithsonian

Type of Attraction A museum Location

is

Jefferson Drive at

1

featuring Asian and

2th Street,

SW, on the

American

Decatur House

once home to many

museums)

art (Self-guided tour)

Mall

Nearest Metro Station Smithsonian

Admission

Hours

Phone

Free

Daily, 10

a.m.-5:30 p.m.; closed Christmas Day.

(202) 357-4880 or (202) 357-1729

(TDD)

Web site www.asia.si.edu When to Go Anytime Special

Comments

This 70-year-old gallery reopened

1993 after a 4V2-year, $26

in

million renovation.

Overall Appeal by Age Preschool

Grade school

Group

•

**

Author's Rating Gorgeous ing.

Teens

|

art

on a human

****

How Much Time to Allow

••Vi

Young adults

|

1-2 hours

***

|

Over 30

|

Seniors

•••^2

****

scale in a setting that's not

overwhelm-

1

92

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

Comments

Description and natural

Well-proportioned spaces,

and quiet serenity are the hallmarks of

light,

the Mall. And the art?

most important

It's

this

galleries illuminated by

newly renovated landmark on

an unusual blend of American paintings (including the world's

collection of

works by James McNeill Whistler), and Asian

paintings,

sculpture, porcelains, scrolls, and richly embellished household items. Charles Lang Freer, the wealthy nineteenth-century industrialist

who bequeathed

the Smithsonian, saw similarities of color and surface texture

Surrender to the

gallery's tranquility

An underground

Touring Tips

in

this collection

to

the diverse assemblage.

and you may, too.

link

to the nearby Arthur M. Sackler Gallery creates

a public exhibition space, as well as convenient passage between the two museums. Don't miss the Peacock Room, designed by James McNeill Whistler; it's widely consid-

ered to be the most important nineteenth-century interior in an American museum. Once the dining room of a Liverpool shipping magnate, it was installed in the Freer

room was

Gallery after Freer's death. The ornate lection of blue

decades of

dirt

painted by Whistler to house a col-

and white Chinese porcelains. Following a restoration that removed and grime, the room has been restored to its original splendor Free

walk-in tours of the Freer are available every day (except Wednesday) at

Other Things to Do Nearby

The

Sackler Gallery, the National

I

I

Museum

a.m.

of African

Haupt Garden are within a few steps of the Freer Gallery. Directly are the National Museum of American History and the National

Art, and the Enid A.

across the Mall

Museum

of Natural History. Walk up the Mall toward the Capitol to reach the Arts and

Industries Building (closed for renovation), the Hirshhorn

Museum. For

Air and Space day) or the

Old Post Office

Hirshhorn

lunch, take the

Metro to either

Museum, and the National (if it's a week-

L'Enfant Plaza

Pavilion (anytime).

Museum and Sculpture Garden

(a Smithsonian

museum)

Type of Attraction A museum

of

modern

art (Self-guided tour)

Location Seventh Street and Independence Avenue, SW, on the

Nearest Metro Stations

Admission

Hours

Free

Daily, 10

a.m.-5:30 p.m.; closed Christmas Day. Sculpture Garden open from

7:30 a.m. until dusk

Phone

Mall

Smithsonian, L'Enfant Plaza

daily.

(202) 633-4674

Web site http://hirshhorn.si.edu When to Go Anytime Special

Comments

The Hirshhorn

is

a lot of people's favorite art

museum on

the

Mall.

Overall Appeal by Age

Group

•

Preschool

Grade school

Teens

|

**

Young

|

Author's Rating An outrageous

••• ****

adults

|

Over 30

|

Seniors

••••• *****

collection of twentieth-century art; don't miss

it.

***** How Much Time to Allow Description and

2 hours

Comments

building that houses

it.

Works

by

The art found inside modern masters such

is

often as bizarre as the circular

as Rodin, Winslow

Homer, Mary

Zone :The National I

Cassattand Henry Moore

below

(set

many others.The Mall.

If

you

visit

1

93

the easy-to-walk galleries.The outdoor sculpture garden

line

Mall level) contains

Mall

works by Rodin, Giacometti. and Alexander Caider, among

sculpture offers a refreshing contrast to the marble palaces that line the

only one

modern

art gallery

on your

visit,

make

it

the Hirshhorn.

Touring Tips Guided tours of the Hirshhorn are offered at 10:30 a.m. and noon, Monday through Friday, and at noon and 2 p.m. on weekends. During the summer months, additional docent-led tours are sometimes added. The museum's outdoor cafe is

open for lunch during the summer

OtherThings to Do Nearby

only.

Two nearby museums,Arts and

Industries (closed for

renovations) and Air and Space, offer startling contrasts to the Hirshhorn's treasures. A less jarring

modern

experience may be the National Gallery of Art's East Wing, also featuring

art. The

best bets for lunch are L'Enfant Plaza (on weekdays) and the Old Post

Office Pavilion (anytime).

In

the summer, the Hirshhorn has an outdoor self-service cafe

featuring sandwiches, salads, and great sculpture.

Jefferson

Memorial

Type of Attraction A

classical-style

Independence and the third

monument

to the author of the Declaration of

U.S. president (Self-guided tour)

Location Across theTidaLBasin from the Washington Monument

Nearest Metro Stationi

Admission

Hours Always

L'Enfant Plaza, Smithsonian

—

""""--

Free

^

open; staffed from 8 a.m.-! 1:45 p.m.. except on Christmas Day.

Phone (202)426-6841

Web site www.nps.gov/thje When to Go For the best views, go at night or when the cherry trees along the Tidal Basin are

Special best

in

in

bloom.

Comments

The view from the

steps and across the Tidal Basin

is

one of the

Washington.

Overall Appeal by Age Preschool

Grade school Author's Rating

Group

•

Teens |

** A

|

Young

••• ***

adults

favorite^^t-HTgRtTBLhi^ot convenient.

[

Over 30

|

Seniors

••• ***

**i/2

How Much Time to AHo\ Description and

Comment^. The jjebclassical,

reflects Jefferson's taste in architecture.

usually less

Because

crowded than the monuments on the

Touring Tips

Park interpreters

staffing

the

it's

open-air design of this

somewhat

monument

off the tourist path,

it's

Mall.

monument

frequently give talks and can

answer questions about Jefferson and the monument.Visitors can walk to the memorial along the rim of the Tidal Basin from Independence Avenue or along 14th Street,

SW

OtherThings to Do Nearby The Bureau of Engraving and Printing and the Holocaust Memorial Museum are both on 14th Street. In 1997, a $52 million memorial to President Franklin D. Roosevelt opened on a 7.5-acre site located between the Lincoln

and Jefferson Memorials. The Tidal Basin

is

great for paddleboating. L'Enfant Plaza has an

underground shopping mall with many places to eat (but not on weekends, when most of the restaurants are closed).

1

94

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

Lincoln

Memorial

Type of Attraction A

memorial to the 16th American president

classical-style

(Self-

guided tour)

Location At the west end of the

Nearest Metro Stations

Admission

Hours Always

Bottom/l^WU

Smithsonian, Foggy

-"^'

_''"

'^~--

Free

"'^"'^"-^

Mall

open. Rangers on duty from 8 a.m.- 1:45 p.m., except Christmas Day. 1

Phone (202)426-6841

Web site www.nps.gov/linc When to Go For the best views, visit in the early morning, at sunset, or at night. Special

Comments

At

west across the Potomac

night, facing

River,

you can see the

eternal flame at John F Kennedy's grave.

Overall Appeal by Age

Group

•• Grade school *** Preschool

Author's Rating Both

Description and out a penny Yet a

on the

30 minutes

To

Over 30

|

Seniors

••• ***

***

\

see^at the

Lincoln Memorial looks

soprano Marian Anderson sang here Jr.

gave

his "I

like,

The Legacy

of Lincoln

museum

in

in

1

939

just pull

after being barred

Have a Dream" speech here

Lincoln Memorial anchors the Mall and should be

Touring Tips

|

to this mar^leTrfonument inspires awe. Historic events took place

Constitution Hall; Martin Luther King

The

adults

soleron-iairid sefeni<^

Comments^

visit

steps: Black

Young

|

How Much Time to Allow

••• ***

Teens

|

on anyone's must-see

in

from 1963.

list.

the memorial's basement

is

worth

a

peek. You'll find exhibits about demonstrations held at the memorial and a video

recounting the building's history.The Lincoln Memorial's location at the west end of the Mall near the river, however, puts this

marble

edifice at a distance

except for overpriced Mall hot dog vendors, so eat memorial's ground

first.

from any lunch spots

Bathrooms are located on the

level.

Other Things to Do Nearby

The Vietnam Veterans Memorial and the Reflecting Academy of Sciences science exhibits (open Monday through Friday, 9 a.m.

Pool are directly across from the Lincoln Memorial. The National

on Constitution Avenue features

to 5 p.m.; free). Outside, tourists can crawl into the lap of an Albert Einstein statue to have their picture taken; Franklin D. Roosevelt

it's

opened

a

DC. in

tradition.

between the Lincoln and Jefferson Memorials. 1

A

$52

1997 on a 7.5-acre If

million

memorial to President

site located

you hike

a

on the Tidal Basin

few blocks up 23rd Street or

7th Street, you'll find an alternative to those hot dog vendors.

National Air and Space Type of Attraction A museum

Museum

(a Smithsonian

that chronicles the history of

museum)

manned

flight (Self-

guided tour)

Location

On

the south side of the Mall near the U.S. Capitol

Nearest Metro Statioi^s Smithsonian,

Admission

Hours

L'Enfant Plaza

Free

10 a.m.-5:30 p.m.; closed Christmas Day.

eral budget,

Depending on the shape of the

hours may be extended during the summer.

fed-

Zone l:The National Phone

or after 4 p.m. Because of metal detectors and baggage

checks, waits of up to 20 minutes can occur, especially at opening. at the Mall entrance,

walk around be

there's a long line

If

you could try the Independence Avenue entrance

—but

huge building (and may not be worth the effort because the

this

195

(TDD)

(202) 357-2700 or (202) 357-1729

Web site www.nasm.edu When to Go Before noon

Mall

it's

a long

line

could

just as long).

Special

Comments

make the box

you want to get

If

tickets for the five-story-high

on the main floor your

office

passes; check with the information desk

Overall Appeal by Age

Some

first stop.

ble, try

•••• *****

the main lobby.

in

|

Teens

|

Young adults

to spread your tour of the^jus eum ovgp^ or

Description and ing

Comments

about nine million

museum

This

visitors a year. Entering

is

bergh flew across the Atlantic

The only drawback to

numbing least

after a while.

two

But

visits.

If

in

this

1

a must-see for virtually

in

the

museum, giving

visitors the

the world, draw-

in

of St

Spirit

Louis,

another

is

moon

touch a

Mall, visitors can

which Lind-

full-size

won-

becomes —going every your time here to and anyone— not it,

to

try

exhibit

into at

split

just airplane buffs

space cadets.The newly remodeled ground floor has to exhibits

possi-

it all. If

visits.

size

its

is

won't see

still

927. Everywhere you look

museum

your length of stay allows

it's

Seniors****

|

the most visited

from the

•••••

Over 30

|

more

rock and gaze up at the Wright Brothers' plane and the

der.

theater,

Group

••••• ***** Author's Rating Absolutely not to be missed. ***** How Much Time to Alldw 2 hours minimum—^nd you Preschool

Grade school

MAX

I

special exhibits require

new

chance to

fly

flight

simulators. Five are tied

a World

War

I

plane flown by

Eddie Rickenbacker, Amelia Earhart's Lockheed Vega, and more. At the Einstein Planetarium, the starry sky has been replaced by digital projectors, which transport images

from space and cast them out onto the 70-foot dome.

Touring Tips

If

you don't have an unlimited amount of time to wander around, try

strategy: After leaving the

main lobby, work your way over to Space

Hall,

this

where you can

tour Skylab and check out the Apollo-Soyuz spacecraft For more insight into the exhibits, take one of the free, one-hour guided tours starting at ning at the staying

welcome center

in

away from Skylab, the

exhibits also

worth

moon

0:30 a.m. and

p.m.

I

daily,

rock, and the cafeteria around lunchtime.

hitting early to avoid lines:

that teaches the basic principles of tition for

1

begin-

the main lobby. You can avoid a few major bottlenecks by

"How Things

Three

Fly" (an interactive gallery

Race" (examines the Cold War compe-

flight), "Space

outer space between the United States and the former Soviet Union), and

"Beyond the Limits" (computers

in

Steven F Udvar-Hazy Center (with facts) at Dulles International

633-1000 for

aviation

more

Airport

in

and space). Note: Shuttle service to the new

than 80

more

aircraft

suburban Virginia leaves

and dozens of space

ticket information. Shuttle tickets are $7; admission

Other Things to Do Nearby

times

six is

daily. Call

arti-

(202)

free.

To escape the worst of the crowds, try

a stroll

through the fragrant U.S. Botanic Garden, located a block east of the National Air and

Space Museum. For lunch, the on-site cafeteria and restaurant feature a great view of the Capitol and expensive, run-of-the-mill dining. Best bet on weekdays: L'Enfant Plaza,

where you can dine elbow-to-elbow with Washington bureaucrats mall with a

between

D

wide range of eatehes.The entrance and E Streets.

On weekends

is

in

an underground

south of the Mall on Tenth Street,

and holidays, Capitol

Hill

(with

its

SW

wide array of

1

96

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

Old Post Office

restaurants, bars, and cafes) and the

Pavilion are

mer, check out the Hirshhorn Museum's self-service cafe,

with great

good

bets. In the sunn-

where you can dine

al

fresco

art.

National Aquarium Type of Attraction The Location

In

oldest aquarium

in

the United States (Self-guided tour)

Commerce

the basement of the Department of

building

on 14th

Street,

NW Nearest Metro Station Adnnlsslon $5

adults,

Federal Triangle

$4 seniors and

military,

$2 for children ages 2-10

Hours

Daily,

Phone

(202) 482-2826 or (202) 482-2825 (recording)

9 a.m.-5 p.m.; closed Christmas Day.

Web site www.nationalaquarium.com When to Go Anytime Special

Comments A

cool, dark oasis

Overall Appeal by Age

A

Teens

|

Young

|

basement

How Much Time to Allow

of

full

I

••• **

fish

fish tanks.

a

Seniors

|

•• **

^Vi

Essentially a long is

room

not

in

and dolphin emporiums that are springing up

Baltimore). But children will love

aquarium figures as

afternoon.

Over 30

|

adults

the basement of an office building, this aquarium

newer

summer

hour

Comments

Description and

a sweltering

Group

•••• Grade school **** Preschool

Author's Rating

on

it.

lined with big fish tanks in

the same league with other,

over (such as the one

all

Small and lacking crowd-pleasing sea

minor exhibit for

filling in

in

mammals, the

the odd hour or to escape from a swel-

tering afternoon. Otherwise, spend your valuable touring time elsewhere.

Sharks get fed at 2 p.m. on Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday; the pira-

Touring Tips

nhas get their meals at 2 p.m. on Tuesday,Thursday, and Sunday.

Other Things to Do Nearby

The Washington Monument, the National Museum of Pavilion are within a few minutes' walk. The

American History, and the Old Post Office

Commerce Department offers good,

cheap

fare: a

cafeteria,

open Monday through

soup and salad

bar, pizza

Friday

and pasta, a

grill,

from 9 a.m. to 2 a

deli,

p.m.,

and hot entrees.

National Archives Type of Attraction The dence and

magnificent rotunda

where the Declaration of Indepen-

U.S. Constitution are displayed (Self-guided tour)

Location Seventh Street and Constitution Avenue,

NW, on

the Mall

Nearest Metro Station Archives Adnnission Free

Hours

April

I

-Labor Day, Exhibition

March 31,10 a.m.-5:30

p.m.; closed

Hall

open every

day, 10

a.m.-9 p.m.; September-

Christmas Day.

Phone (202)501-5205

Web site www.archives.gov When to Go Before noon or after 4

p.m. during spring and

summer.

Zone l:The National Comments

Special line

is

long.

Small children

may need

a

to see the documents; skip

lift

Grade school

Teens ••'/2

Over 30

|

|

**

***

Young adults

|

A

How Much Time

to Allow 30 minutes

Average Wait

Line per 100 People ahead of You 20 minutes

in

In

addition to trying to decipher the faint and flow-

on the sheets of parchment mounted

through

of Americana.

a

bronze and

in

glass cases, visitors can

temporary exhibit of photos and documents covering various aspects

Most

visitors

seem

as fascinated by the written description of the elabo-

rate security system that lowers the sacred

documents

into a deep, nuclear-explosion-

proof vault each night as they are by seeing the charters themselves even see the contraption. While the 75-foot-high rotunda are surprised at

to see it

how

—but

and

Touring Tips

little

there

you've got to

come back Some

is

later

really

It's

known parchments under

In fact,

If

the

can't

most people there

line

is

a lot

to get

in is

not worth the wait.

documents on

interesting

display in the exhibition areas

certainly easier to read

—than the

bet-

the big dome. For a behind-the-scenes view of the work-

National Archives, arrange to take a reserved tour During spring and

ings of the

summer, four weeks' notice

is

recommended. Or take

a chance and

Pennsylvania Avenue entrance (across from Eighth Street, cancellation or a no-show, you're 1:15 p.m.

—and you

impressive,

advance to arrange a tour

—and

more

is

to see inside this huge building.

call in

visitors say the

outside the rotunda are ter

•••

letdown. -kVz

Comments

Description and

long, skip

the

Seniors***

|

Author's Rating

more

it if

Group

•

Preschool

stroll

197

Use the entrance on Constitution Avenue.

Overall Appeal by Age

ing script

Mall

Monday through

tour, visitors take a

in.

The reserved tours

NW)

at

show up

tour time.

If

at the

there's a

begin at 10:15 a.m. and again at

Friday and last about an hour and a

half.

On

the reserved

tour of the building, including the stacks, microfilm viewing rooms,

and exhibits and models that show

how

researchers preserve documents.

ends at the Rotunda. Oh, and don't miss the

photograph of President Nixon and

Other Things to Do Nearby

gift

Elvis Presley

shop,

where the

embracing.

Pick a Smithsonian

It's

The tour

best-selling item

is

a

a scream.

museum you

haven't seen yet and

the Mall

good restaurants popular with folks who work in the museums along are located across Pennsylvania Avenue from the National Archives on Indiana

Avenue,

NW.

dive

in.

Several

National Gallery of Art: East Building Type of Attraction A museum

housing twentieth-century art and special exhibitions

(Self-guided tour)

NW, on

Location Fourth Street and Constitution Avenue,

Nearest Metro Stations

Admission

Free

Hours Monday-Saturday,

New Year's

the Mall

Archives, Judiciary Square, Smithsonian

Days.

Phone (202)737-4215

Web site www.nga.gov When to Go Anytime

10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sunday,

I

I

a.m.-6 p.m.; closed Christmas and

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

198 Special

Comments

Usually referred to as the "East

may park

Visitors with disabilities

tory tours are offered daily and

in

last

Wing" of the National

Gallery.

available spaces in front of the building. Introduc-

about an hour; for times,

(202) 842-6247.

call

No

luggage, backpacks, bookbags, or other personal bags allowed.

Overall Appeal by Age Preschool

Group

•

Young

|

Author's Rating Even the

building

How Much Time to Allow Description and

Teens

|

**

Grade school

airy,

a great

work

|

Over 30

|

Seniors

••••• *****

*****

of art.

2 hours

Comments

Both the interior and exterior of

designed building are spectacular, so side,

is

••• *****

adults

worth

it's

a visit even

if

this

M. Pei-

I.

you hate modern

the popular 1978 building consists of unadorned vertical planes. Inside,

Out-

art.

it's

bright,

and spacious. Look for art by modern masters such as Picasso, Matisse, Mondrian,

Miro, Magritte, Warhol, Lichtenstein.and Rauschenberg.The exhibits change constantly,

so there's no

telling

Touring Tips

which of these

Occasionally,

is

on

display.

temporary

(such as a Van

exhibits

Gogh show)

are

extremely popular and may require a free "time ticket" that admits you on a certain day

hourYou may pick up such month before a show opens. If you

at a specific

tickets in advance; tickets are available as

as a

don't have a ticket on the day you

Wing, you're not completely out of distribution that day only.

If

luck:

A

gallery,

museum, turn

near the Mall

left

—

it's

The new, more than manent

in

later to see the exhibit.

high, knife-edge exterior

six-acre National Gallery Sculpture

temporary

circle of linden trees.

West

Garden opened

Building. Works

from the

it

you

of shade trees provide

it.

in

the

gallery's per-

exhibits, grace the symmetrical garden,

A variety

its

welcome

the summer, while the central pool serves as a public ice skating rink

(as

When

corner wall of the

almost worn away from people touching their noses to

collection, as well as

and the

of tickets are set aside every day for

come back

and check out the

spring of 1999 on the Mall adjacent to the

tral pool,

much

the East

you want one, arrive at the ticket counter on the main floor

by noon (or 2 p.m. during the week).Then exit the

number

visit

in

cenrelief

the winter

has since the late 1960s).

Other Things to Do Nearby

The West Wing, with

its

more

traditional

European

connected to the East Building by an underground concourse. The Capitol and the U.S. Botanic Garden are close by, as well as the National Archives. The Cascade art,

is

Cafe/Buffet, a cafeteria along the concourse, ing a classy selection of ion,

may be the best

food and an espresso

bar.

official

Mall eatery, featur-

Otherwise, the Old Post Office

Pavil-

the Sculpture Garden's Pavillion Cafe, and L'Enfant Plaza (weekdays only) offer the

best food choices nearby.

National Gallery of Art: West Building Type of Attraction Museum

featuring European and

American

art

from the

thir-

teenth through the nineteenth centuries (Self-guided and guided tours)

Location

Sixth Street and Constitution Avenue,

NW, on

the Mall

Nearest Metro Station Archives

Admission

Hours

Free

Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sunday,

New Year's

Days.

Phone (202)737-4215

I

I

a.m.-6 p.m. Closed Christmas and

Zone :The National I

Mall

1

99

Web site www.nga.gov When to Go Anytime Special times,

Comments

call

Introductory tours are offered daily and

(202) 842-6247.

usually referred to as the

It's

last

about an hour. For

"West Wing"

of the National

Gallery.

Overall Appeal by Age

Group

••• **** Art with a capital "A." ***** •

Preschool

Author's Rating

How Much Time

Teens

|

Grade school **'/2

Young

|

adults

to Allow 2 hours for

|

Over 30

|

Seniors

••••• *****

you could spend a

a light skimming, but

week.

Description and ters such as

to

name

sell

a few. And

Pope.

Comments

This

Rembrandt and Vermeer,

It's

it's all

housed

a world-class art

The Micro

in

where you

find the

heavy

hitters:

Dutch mas-

Monet, and Jacques-Louis David,

museum; first-time

visitors

should make at least one stop.

stations featuring high-tech

computers and 20-

inch touchscreen color monitors, provides visitors with images and information

about

1

,700 paintings, sculptures, and decorative arts; 650 artists; and

Modeled

art-related subjects.

the Micro Gallery

after a similar

with

lets visitors

just

an elegant neoclassical building designed by John Rus-

computer

Gallery, 13

is

plus Raphael,

little

more

system at the National Gallery

in

on

than 530

London,

or no computer experience expand their

appreciation of the gallery's permanent collection. You can even create a personal tour of the

museum and

The Micro Gallery Touring Tips

map showing

print a is

the locations of works of art you've selected.

located on the main floor near the Mall entrance.

Most of the museum's

paintings are

hung

in

many

small rooms, instead

of a few big ones, so don't try to speed through the building or you'll miss

them.

When museum

fatigue begins to set

located between the museum's

many

in,

galleries.

If

rest

your feet

in

most of

one of the atriums

you plan on dragging

kids through this

massive place, try bribing them with a later trip to the National Zoo.

Some temporary

exhibits require a free time ticket that admits

you on a certain day

hourYou may pick up such tickets in advance; they are available as much as a month before a show opens. If you don't have a ticket on the day you want to visit the West Wing, you're not completely out of luck: A number of tickets are set aside every at a specific

day for distribution that day only.

you want one, arrive

If

at the ticket

main floor by noon (or 2 p.m. on a weekday). Then come back

Other Things to Do Nearby

Take the connecting corridor (an underground con-

course) to the gallery's East Building. The Air and Space Mall, while the National

Probably the best Pavilion

Archives are

museum

counter on the

later to see the exhibit.

cafeteria

in

Museum

is

directly across the

the other direction, across Constitution Avenue.

on the

Mall

is

located along the concourse.

The

Cafe at the National Gallery's Sculpture Garden (located next door, across from

the National Archives) has indoor and outdoor seating. Otherwise, L'Enfant Plaza (an

underground shopping mall loaded with restaurants and

fast

food places; weekdays only)

and the Old Post Office Pavilion (anytime) are your best bets for lunch.

National

Museum

of African Art (a Smithsonian museum)

Type of Attraction A museum

specializing in the traditional arts of Africa (Self-

guided tour)

Location 950 Independence Avenue, SW, on the ian Institution building)

Mall near the Castle (the Smithson-

200

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

Nearest Metro Station Smithsonian

Admission

Free

Hours

Daily, 10

Phone

(202) 633-4600 or (202) 357-4814 (TDD)

a.m.-5:30 p.m.; closed Christmas Day.

Web site www.nmafa.si.edu When to Go Anytime Special Comments Provides a quiet jammed; an excellent museum shop.

Overall Appeal by Age

Grade school

Teens |

**

Description and 1987,

Young

|

How Much Time to Allow in

••

are

Over 30 ••Vi

|

adults ifirVi

I

**y2

Seniors

\

**

hour

Comments

new subterranean museum, which museum of Asian art, and separated

This relatively

paired with the Sackler Gallery a

is

attractions

Exquisite sculpture and fascinating household items.

Author's Rating

opened

Mall

Group

•

Preschool

when other

respite

by an above-ground garden. Inside

is

an extensive collection of African art

in

a

wide range

of media, including sculpture, masks, household and personal items, and religious objects.

museum

Intellectually this

transports museum-goers far away from the Mall.

destination for older children, teens, and adults looking for

history and art.This

where

I

I

is

a great alternative

a.m. and

tion of African music

on

jewelry scarves and sashes,

tape,

CD, and

Other Things to Do Nearby Gallery and even connects with ington afternoon.

If

museums good

featuring

cultural

on hot or crowded days

in

Washington.

I

you'll find textiles,

the two

an okay

One-hour guided tours are given at 1:30 p.m. Monday through Thursp.m. on weekends. And don't miss the excellent museum shop,

Touring Tips day and at

museum

It's

some non-European

This it

at

ground

museum

below ground

the weather's mild, level.

wood

carvings, and a

wide selec-

video.

stroll

Neither

is

—

twinned with the Arthur M. Sackler a nice feature

on a sweltering Wash-

the Enid A. Haupt Garden, which separates

museum

has a cafeteria; the closest places

selections and reasonable prices are L'Enfant Plaza (weekdays) and the

Old Post Office

Pavilion (anytime).

National Museum of American History (a Smithsonian museum) Type of Attraction An rience

—

historical, social,

Location

1

extensive collection of artifacts reflecting the American expe-

and technological (Self-guided tour)

4th Street and Constitution Avenue,

Nearest Metro Stations

Admission

Hours

NW, on

the Mall

Smithsonian, Federal Triangle

Free

Daily, 10

a.m.-5:30 p.m.; extended

summer hours depend on budget

restraints.

Closed Christmas Day

Phone

(202) 633-1000 or (202) 357-1729

(TDD)

Web site http://americanhistory.si.edu When to Go To avoid the worst crowds, visit before Special

Comments

to see

in

it

noon and

after 3 p.m.

The immensity of this museum almost demands more than one visit.

that visitors try

Zone l:The National Overall Appeal by Age

Teens

|

Young

|

A

How Much Time

to Allow 2 hours on

Description and

Comments

three stories high that shows

how

large

It

we mean it

a

steam locomotives,

week

to see

Model T Ford,

a

the earth rotates, a collection of If

you

can't find

it all.

ball

a

pendulum

gowns worn by

something of interest here, you

offers viewers a dizzying array of history, nostalgia, tech-

a must-see for virtually

it. It's

At most museums, you look

—make

*****

it.

would take

at

stuff,

all

—and to

visitors.

but a lot of the collection at Amer-

arranged so that viewers can learn about people

To see what

museum

it

resuscitation. For a lot of people, this ranks as their favorite

nology, and culture. And kids love

times.

a first pass;

•••••

Seniors*****

|

Three exhibit-packed floors feature such treasures

and Archie Bunker's chair

may need mouth-to-mouth Mall museum. No wonder:

is

Over 30

|

collection of national treasures; don't miss

as the original Star-Spangled Banner,

ican History

••••• *****

adults

Author's Rating

TouringTips

201

Group

••• Grade school **** Preschool

First Ladies,

Mall

in

help you organize yourself

the context of their bewilderingly

in this

a point to see these exhibits: the First Ladies' Exhibition; Field to

Factory (about the migration of Southern rural African Americans to northern

and a collection of objects about television that includes Archie Bunker's jacket,

one of

Mr

cities);

chair, Fonzie's

Rogers' sweaters, Oscar the Grouch (of Sesame Street fame), and for

baby boomers, some items from the Howdy Doody Show. Check at the information desk for a schedule of tours (usually at

a.m. and

1

tures, films, and other activities put

people touring the

museum on

I

p.m. daily), demonstrations, concerts, lec-

on by the museum

their

own overlook

staff.

museum's east wing, which features an excellent collection of cles.

Car aficionados

Life exhibit,

will

love

it.

Kids (and

most

final hints:

cars, trains,

the

in

American

Within a short walk are the Washington Monument,

Museum

of Nat-

History.Almost directly across the Mall are the Freer and Sackler Galleries and the

National ria

lot of in

Hands-On History Room.

the National Aquarium, the Old Post Office Pavilion, and the National ural

A

and motorcy-

adults) enjoy the Science

the Hands-on Science Center, and the

Other Things to Do Nearby

Some

the Hall of Transportation

Museum

and an

ice

National

of African Art. And, yes, the American History

Museum

(a Smithsonian

artifacts in the

of the American Indian

of the largest and

most diverse

collections of Indian art and

world (Self-guided tour)

Location Fourth Street and Independence Avenue,

Museum and

SW (one the

Mall

between the Air

the U.S. Botanic Gardens)

Nearest Metro Stations

Admission

has a cafete-

museum)

Type of Attraction One

and Space

Museum

cream parlor

Federal Center, L'Enfant Plaza

Free; timed passes required (available at the east entrance)

Hours

Daily, 10

Phone

(202) 633-1000 or (202) 357-1729

a.m.-5:30 p.m. Closed Christmas Day.

(TDD)

Web site wv/w.americanindian. si.edu When to Go Free timed passes are required

and available at the east (Capitol-side)

entrance for that day only; the ticket office opens at 10 a.m. and distribution

is

to 6 passes per adult. A limited

call

number

of passes can be reserved by phone,

400-NMAi (6642) or go to the museum's Web

site (above).

A

limited

(866)

service charge applies.

202

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

Special

Comments

museum;

for example

your pass

for noon,

is

How Much Time to Allow (which opened

wait

Comments

we were and

Indian art

museum

sits

unable to tour

artifacts,

million

it.

But

it

2:30

museum opened

after

the Mall levels

Touring Tips

Officials

visiting in

expect the

and

we went to

promises to be a blockbuster that showcases

meadowlands and croplands.

it

museum on

and features four

and creates a sense of Native place, culture and

forest, wetlands,

before

1

to get passes and enter the

diversity.

a 4.25-acre site with natural rock formations and native plants set

on

Unless you're

in line

Smithsonian's newest

The

250,000 square feet of exhibition space. Because the press,

to enter the

1-2 hours.

September 2004) cost $219

in

window

you can enter between noon and

Museum officials predict that the maximum museum will be 30 minutes each. p.m.

Description and

a 30-minute

The time passes provide if

museum

The in

a

to attract a record numbers of visitors.

the winter, plan to arrive at the ticket office at least 30 minutes

at 10 a.m. (the earlier the better).

opens

The Air and Space Museum and U.S. Botanic Garden door and the National Gallery of Art is across the Mall. Food options include the museum, L'Enfant Plaza (weekdays) and the Old Post Office Pavilion food

Other Things to Do Nearby are next a cafe

in

court.

National

Museum

of Natural History

(a Smithsonian

museum)

Type of Attraction

America's treasure chest of the natural sciences and

human

cul-

ture (Self-guided tour)

On

Location

the Mall at Tenth Street,

Nearest Metro

Admission under age

Hours

NW,and

Constitution Avenue

Stations Smithsonian,Archives, Federal Triangle

Free;

IMAX

admission

is

$8 adults and $6.50 for seniors and children

1

Daily, 10

a.m.-5:30 p.m.; open

until

8 p.m. during the

summer months;

closed

Christmas Day.

Phone

(202) 633-1000 or (202) 357-1729

Web site www.mnh.si.edu When to Go Before noon Monday-Friday

at

(TDD)

and after 4 p.m. Free weekday highlight tours are offered

10:30 a.m. and

1:30

p.m (except

July

and August). Meet

in

the

rotunda.

Special

Comments

In

the recently renovated Discovery

Room,

kids ages

4 years

and up can touch nearly everything. Hours are Tuesday-Friday, noon-2:30 p.m.; weekends, 10:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Make the popular Discovery Room your first stop and pick up free time

your

tickets;

tour the rest of the

museum and

return at the time stamped on

ticket.

Overall Appeal by Age Preschool

Grade school

•••• ••***

Author's Rating The

gem make

this

museum

How Much Time you could

easily

Group Teens

|

|

Young

displays of

a classic.

••••'/a

adults

**•*•

huge dinosaur

fossils

|

Over 30

|

Seniors

••••• ••••*

and the world's best known

****!/2

to Allow 2 hours

is

spend an entire day here.

enough time to see the

really

cool

stuff,

but

Zone l:The National Comments

Description and bull

elephant

Distinguished by

Museum

the rotunda, the

in

Its

dome and

golden

of Natural History

is

a

203

Mall

the towering

Washington landmark.

It's

also a bit old-fashioned, with long halls filled with dioramas, display cases, and hang-

ing

specimens that

reflect the Victorian obsession with collecting things. This

along with Air and Space across the Mall,

is

immensely popular with

families,

museum, and for

a

—

good reason folks of all ages and tastes will find fascinating things to see here. In September 1997, the Janet Annenberg Hooker Hall of Geology, Gems, and Minerals opened, showcasing the museum's world-class gem and mineral collection. It's part of a still-ongoing $8.5 million

nature

specializing in

films.

museum

The gem

renovation, which includes an

graphics, film and video presentations, and hands-on exhibits.

Hope Diamond,

carat

crystals, a

IMAX

theater

features interactive computers, animated

hall

addition to the 45.52-

In

the space features meteorites, emeralds, a 23,000-carat topaz,

walk-through mine, a re-creation of a cave, and a plate tectonics gallery

showing how the

earth's surface shifts.

A new mammal mammalian

premiered

hall

2003, with state-of-the-art-dioramas explaining

in

evolution, and hands-on activities that hold kids' interests.

Touring Tips

After entering through the big doors at the Mall entrance, bear right

to see the dinosaur skeletons. Then ascend to the second floor to gaze upon the sup-

Hope Diamond and

posedly cursed

to explore the

gem

hall. If

you're not put off by

crawling critters, stop by the Insect Zoo, which features a wide array of cial

exhibits are located

on the ground

Other Things to Do Nearby

level

bugs. Spe-

(live)

(Constitution Avenue entrance).

The National Museum

of American History

is

next

door; across the Mall are the Hirshhorn Museum, the Arts and Industries Building

Museum

(closed for renovations), the leries;

lunch

the National Archives is

in

museum on

Avenue,

overpriced:

is

find a street vendor,

convenient choice for

served

in

Location At

II

7th Street,

Nearest Metro

Admission

front of

the National Mall to the 16 million Americans

War

II

(Self-guided tour)

NW and^he Mall, between the Washington Monument and --,

^

the Lincoln Memorial

in

you crave a hot dog, walk over to Constitution

Memorial

uniform during World 1

If

and save a buck.

Type of Attraction A Memorial on

Hours

A

the National Gallery Sculpture Garden. The fast-food kiosk the Mall

National World War who

of African Art, and the Sackler and Freer Gal-

across Constitution Avenue.

the Old Post Office Pavilion, about a block away on 12th Street or the Pavilion

Cafe, located

the

is

>^

Statioui Smithsonian j

Free

^---~_____-^

Park rangers on

site

each day except Christmas Day. The

monument may be

closed during July 4th celebrations.

Web sites vvww.wwiimemorial.com and wv/w.nps.gov/nv/wm When to Go Anytime (except inclement weather) Special

A

Comments

limited

number

Clean,

modern

rest

rooms

are located behind the visitor center.

of handicapped parking spaces are available.

Overall Appeal by Age Preschool

Group

•

Teens

••

**

|

Young

Author's Rating Impressive, but hot

How Much Time to Allow

in

adults

ifkVi

\

Seniors

the sarhe ballpark as the

30 minutes to an

••• *****

Over 30

|

|

Grade school

FDR

Memorial.

**V2

204

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

Comments

Description and

memorial, dedicated

war

human

in

history

The

May 2004, for

in

(it

50

killed

"greatest generation" gets

its

contributions

due

in this

new

honor the more than 400,000

soldiers

the conflict. The assemblies of white granite surround a large pool, foun-

who

died

tains

and a piazza located

in

Touring Tips the day. Clean,

—

its

winning the most devastating

million people). Two 43-foot arches, a 17-foot pillar

for each state and territory and 4,000 gold stars

Mall

in

in

a spectacular setting.

the summer, go

In

modern and

the morning or evening to avoid the worst heat of

in

rooms

air-conditioned rest

—

commodity on the

a scarce

are located behind the visitor center (on the Pacific pavilion side of the memorial).

Other Things to Do Nearby

You're

in

the heart of tourist Washington. The Lin-

Monument and the Vietnam by. The Smithsonian museum complex is on the other

coln Memorial, the Washington

Veterans Memorial are

close

side of the

Monument.The Bureau ial

are on

1

Washington

of Engraving and Printing and the National Holocaust

5th Street, south of the Washington

Tidal Basin, across Independence

Avenue

Monument.The FDR Memorial

Memoris

on the

(to the south).

The Octagon Type of Attraction One

of the

first

homes

great

Washington; a

built in

museum

showcasing American architecture and historic preservation (Guided tour)

Location

1

New York Avenue, N

799

W

Nearest Metro Station FarragutWest

Admission $5

Hours

for adults; $3 for students and seniors

Tuesday-Sunday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.; closed Mondays, Thanksgiving, Christmas and

New Year's

Days.

Phone (202)638-322!

Web site www.archfoundation.org/octagon When to Go Anytime Special

Comments One

long staircase leads to the second-floor exhibition gal-

leries.

Overall Appeal by Age

Group

•

Preschool

Grade school

First

••

adults **i/2

I

mostly swamp),

first

This elegant building

now

in

how

is

history.

where President James Madi-

2. Built in

1

80

1

hall

underwent

are original.

British

(when Washington was

the upper crust lived

the entrance

galleries displaying

a

$5

million, six-year

in

rooms on the

the early days of

The former bedrooms

temporary exhibits on architecture and

design.

Interpreters give half-hour tours of the building that provide additional

—and

glimpses into the past

tell

fascinating anecdotes

early days. For example. President

war

Washington

the American Architectural Foundation. Period

Washington; the coal stoves

TouringTips

1

this early Federalist building recently

owned by

floor offer visitors a glimpse of

upstairs are

Seniors **i/2

Lady Dolley Madison took up temporary residence after the 1

it's

Over 30 ••^/i

|

hour

Comments

burned the White House during the War of 8

renovation;

|

interesting, yet narrow, slice of early

• •1/2 How Much Time to Allow son and

Young

\

Author's Rating Another

Description and

Teens

|

irVi

that had driven him from the

about the building and the

city's

Madison signed the Treaty of Ghent, which ended the

White House,

in

the upstairs parlor. Later the build-

Zone l:The National

205

Mall

and was subdivided into ten apartments before

ing served as a girls' school

acquired by the American Architectural Foundation

Other Things to Do Nearby

in

The Corcoran Gallery

Renwick Gallery and the White House are

was

it

1899.

also close by.

of Art

is

Walk up

The

a block away. 1

7th Street for a

selection of fast-food places and restaurants.

Old Post Office Tower and

Pavilion

Type of Attraction A multi-ethnic food court in a spectacular architectural setting; home of the second-best view in Washington; trendy shops (Guided tour of the tower) Location

1

2th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue,

Nearest Metro Station

Admission

Free

Hours During

the summer,

and Sunday, noon-7 p.m. p.m.,

NW

Federal Triangle

In

stores are open Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-9 p.m.,

retail

the winter, stores are open Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-7

Summer food

and Sunday, noon-6 p.m.

court hours are Monday-Saturday, 10

a.m.-9 p.m., and Sunday, noon-8 p.m.; the food court closes an hour earlier the rest of the year

From

Easter Sunday through Labor Day, the tower

the rest of the year

Phone

it's

open

crowds

Special

open 8 a.m.- 0.45 1

p.m.;

(202) 289-4224 or (202) 606-869! for the tower

Web site v»/v^w.nps.gov/opot When to Go Anytime to take of the

is

10 a.m.-5:45 p.m.

in

the glass elevator up the clock tower; beat the worst

the food court after

I

p.m.

Comments

This is the place to come when they run out of time tickets at Monument.The food court is a favorite stop for tour buses, making it

the Washington difficult at

times to find a table.

Overall Appeal by Age

Group

••• Grade school **** Preschool

A

Author's Rating

crummy food served

Young

|

•••• ***

adults

great view and a lifesaver for tourists in

most museums.

How Much Time to Allow Description and

Teens

|

I

|

Over 30

|

Seniors

who

••• ***

hate the overpriced,

***V2

hour for the clock tower

Comments

This fine old building, a Pennsylvania Avenue land-

mark, was slated for demolition, but preservationist groups intervened to save

it.

Today,

the 3 5-foot clock tower offers a spectacular view of Washington, while the multi1

ethnic food court occupies a stunning, glass-roofed architectural space ten stories high. It

offers a

complete tourist experience for people of

large plate glass

windows, not

food, and a shopping mall. Pavilion

is

tiny

windows

And with

its

like at

all

ages: a

view to

kill

for (through

the Washington Monument), great

proximity to the Mall and White House, the

a convenient place to visit for a quick lunch or snack.

Touring Tips It's elbow-to-elbow in the small elevator to the observation deck. Beware of clumps of screaming teenagers in the food court it's a popular destination

—

for school groups. To reach the glass-enclosed elevators to the observation deck, go to

the patio area

tower are

in

the food court.

The National Park

Service rangers on duty

a great source of advice about D.C. touring. Ask

one to show you the

in

the

lay

of

the land from the observation deck.

Other Things to Do Nearby

Make

faces at the groupers

in

the National Aquar-

206

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

Museum, or

ium, stop by the International Spy thing

good to eat

in

the food court,

Renwick Gallery

it's

Ford's Theatre.

visit

If

you

can't find any-

time to go home.

(a Smithsonian museun))

Type of Attraction A museum

dedicated to American crafts and decorative arts

(Self-guided tour)

NW

Location 17th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue, White House)

(diagonally across

from the

Nearest Metro Station FarragutWest

Admission

Free

Hours

Daily, 10

Phone

(202) 633-2850 or (202) 357-1729

a.m.-5:30 p.m.; closed Christmas Day.

(TDD)

Web site http://americanart.si.edu/renwick When to Go Anytime Comments

Special

Don't expect an exhibition of hand-woven basketsiThe

museum

features a wide array of mixed-media sculptures, tapestries, and constructions by major

contemporary

artists.

Overall Appeal by Age

Group

•

Preschool

Grade school

Teens

|

**

Young

|

Author's Rating An elegant

setting, yet a bit dull.

How Much Time to Allow Description and the mansion

make

on

museum worth

a first-time visit to Washington

TouringTips

On

the same floor

is

first

Other Things to Do Nearby you

in glass,

can't get

oil

**

a stop

you're near the White

when

ceramics,

wood, fiber, and

paintings, velvet curtains,

in,

Room, which

floor hosts

temporary

metal. But

it.

Next door

is

Blair

now an

and traditional

furni-

faces the street and

is

exhibits.

House, where

visiting foreign dig-

but look for Secret Service agents and diplomatic limos.A

plaque on the wrought-iron gates honors a guard

would-be

Seniors **!/2

or with children should skip

the elegant Octagon

used as exhibition space. The

nitaries stay;

|

Glide up the Grand Staircase to enter the elegant Grand Salon,

art gallery featuring floor-to-ceiling ture.

Over 30 ••1/2

Both the art and the Second Empire architecture of

Smithsonian

House. Works on display are constructed folks

|

hour

I

Comments this

•• **

adults

assassin. Around the

who

corner on 17th Street

saved President Truman from a

is

the closest McDonald's to the

White House.

Franklin

Delano Roosevelt Memorial

Type of Attraction A

7.5-acre, open-air

memorial to the 32nd president of the

United States (Self-guided tour)

Location West Potomac

Park,

Nearest Metro Station The brisk,

between the Tidal Basin and the Potomac River Smithsonian (Independence Avenue exit)

30-minute walk away. Other Metro stations even

tom and Arlington Cemetery

Admission

Hours

(across Memorial Bridge

less

in Virginia).

Free

Staffed daily, 8 a.m.-midnight,

is

about a

convenient are Foggy Bot-

except on Christmas Day.

Zone l:The National

207

Mall

Phone (202)426-6841

Web site www.nps.gov/fdrm When to Go Anytime, except

FDR Memorial

during inclement weather; the

is

not

enclosed.

Special

Comments

may

it

find

difficult

to

Nearest metro station are located along are

East

in

FDR

Folks old enough to have voted for

the memorial; nearby parking

visit is

Ohio

about a

mile.

Potomac Park under the at the

and disabled people

scarce and the walk from the

and sixty unmetered parking spaces

SW, eastbound, and three

Drive,

one van space are located

One hundred

is

with a total of 247 spaces

lots

14th Street bridges. Five hantlicapped spaces and

main entrance to the memorial on West Basin Drive.

Except at off-peak times (before noon on weekdays and evenings), competition for the spaces is fierce. Other options for reaching the memorial include cabs and a water taxi.

Overall Appeal by Age

Group Teens ••1/2

Preschool ••'/2

Young

|

Author's Rating Washington's newest tory, texture,

Over 30 •••'/2

|

|

•**

Grade school

adults

***

presidential

Seniors

|

memorial successfully blends

drama, nostalgia, landscaping, and flowing water. The result

and inspiring memorial to America's best-loved twentieth-century

How Much Time

to Allow 30 minutes to

Description and

Comments

I

•••*

leader.

is

his-

a dramatic

***i/2

hour

Unlike the nearby imposing marble edifices to Lin-

coln and Jefferson, the $52 million

FDR Memorial on

the Tidal Basin

tells a story;. In

four open-air, interconnected "rooms" ("enclaves" or "tableaus" might be better words) that represent each of Roosevelt's four terms, his

words are carved on

granite walls,

bronze images depict the alphabet-soup of programs and agencies he created to help millions of Americans devastated by the Depression, and statues depict the average cit-

izens

whose

he touched.

lives

the days before television to Americans

statue.The president as he

is

approaches the

room

greatest

first

a time

a man listening intently to when FDR's strong and vibrant

a radio, evoking

voice gave hope

"fireside chats."

in his

Roosevelt himself

fourth

One shows

—and

represented

is

seated, his final

in

the third

body wrapped

year of

his

life.

in

room

a larger-than-life bronze

in

a cape, his face lined with weariness

His Scottish terrier Fala

is

at his feet.

The

features a statue of Eleanor Roosevelt, widely regarded as America's lady for her services as a delegate to the United Nations and as a

cham-

human rights.This is the first memorial to honor a presidential wife. Many elements work in harmony to make the memorial a success. Textures of South Dakota granite, brick, rough wood, and falling water combine with ornamental pion for

plantings and shade trees to create the

imposing structure. This ures of

FDR

is

ambience of a secluded garden rather than an

not a "hands off" memorial; The

and Mrs. Roosevelt, as well as statues of

five

slightly-larger-than-life fig-

men

and a rural couple outside a barn door, are placed at ground drape an arm around the join the

men

in line

first lady, sit in Franklin's lap as

in

an urban bread

level.

line

Visitors can easily

he delivers a fireside chat, or

for a souvenir snapshot. The memorial's

many

waterfalls

(FDR con-

sidered himself a Navy man) attract splashers with stepping stones while kids enjoy

words "I hate war." As seem to enjoy themselves.

climbing on giant, toppled granite blocks inscribed with the

new memorial, both young and

old,

a

result, visitors to

the

Touring Tips

While you can enter the memorial (dedicated in May 1997) from official entrance so you can stroll through the

either end, try to start your tour at the

outside

rooms

in

chronological order. That's not a problem

if

you're walking to the

208

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

memorial from the Lincoln Memorial. But

folks trekking

from 14th Street and the

Jef-

ferson Memorial should resist the temptation to enter the memorial by continuing

along the Tidal Basin and entering at the Information center and bookstore. Rest are located at both entrances.The memorial

is

impromptu

a nice spot for an

rooms

picnic by

the water, so bring a lunch.

Other Things to Do Nearby

The

Korean War, and Jefferson Memorials

Lincoln,

wear comfortable walking shoes and keep

are relatively close; just

in

mind that

dis-

tances along the Tidal Basin and Mall are deceiving. The Bureau of Engraving and Printing

Museum

and the Holocaust Memorial

are located on Raoul Wallenberg Place, on

the east side of the Tidal Basin just beyond the Jefferson Memorial; both require picking

up time tickets during the spring and summer (year-round

at the

Holocaust Museum).

Hungry? Pack a lunch. The Holocaust Museum has a small cafe with a limited selection and

is

the closest place to grab something to eat. During

warm

weather, paddleboats

are available for rent on the east side of the Tidal Basin, and a water taxi service shut-

along the Potomac River from

tles tourists

rooms are

available at the National

I

a.m. to 6 p.m.

I

World War

Monument and

the Lincoln Memorial.

The Arthur

tA.

daily.

modern

rest

museum)

Sackler Gallery (a Smithsonian

Type of Attraction A museum

Clean,

Memorial, between the Washington

II

dedicated to Asian art from ancient times to the

present (Self-guided tour)

Location

1

050 Independence Avenue, SW, on the

Mall near the Castle (the Smithson-

ian Institution building)

Nearest Metro Station Smithsonian

Admission

Free

Hours

Daily, 10

Phone

(202) 633-4880 or (202) 357-1729

a.m.-5:30 p.m.; closed Christmas Day.

(TDD)

Web site wv/w.asia.si.edu When to Go Anytime Special

Comments A

when other

quiet respite

Mall attractions are

jammed with

visitors.

Overall Appeal by Age Preschool

Group

•

Teens

••

Over 30 ••1/2

|

|

Grade school

**

Young

|

Author's Rating Fabulous and exotic

How Much Time to Allow Description and

I

adults **i/2

art.

Seniors

|

**y2

**V2

hour

Comments

Descend through

a granite-and-glass pavilion to

view a collection of Asian (mostly Chinese) treasures, many of them made of gold and encrusted with jewels. The Sackler

is full

of exotic stuff that

children, teens, and adults. Barring a strong interest visitors

on

in

will

catch the eye of older

the Orient, however, first-time

a tight schedule should visit the Sackler another time.

Touring Tips

Stop at the information desk and ask about the guided tours offered

throughout the day.The

gift

games, Zen-rock garden

shop

kits,

is

an exotic bazaar, featuring paintings, textiles, ancient

and plenty of other Asian-influenced items. Free walk-in

tours are offered daily (except Wednesday) at

Other Things to Do Nearby

The

Sackler

I

I

is

a.m.

connected with

its

twin, the

Museum

Zone l:The National

—

of African Art, below ground, so that's the logical next stop

hot outside. A

blazingly

Sackler

None

of these

new underground museums offers a Old Post Office

Plaza (weekdays) or the is

especially

209

Mall

if it's

rainy

or

corridor connects the Freer Gallery to the cafeteria, but that's okay:

Try either L'Enfant

Pavilion (anytime).The only remaining

problem

deciding what to eat.

Hl Smithsonian

Institution Building (the Castle) Information desks and displays, and a continuously running movie

Type of Attraction

that introduces visitors to the vast

Location

number

000 Jefferson Prive, SW,

1

Nearest Metro

Admission

of Smithsonian

museums.

oi><;he Mall

Staticj^ Smithsonian

"^--^

Free

Hours

Daily,

Phone

(202) 633-1000 or (202) 357-1729

9 a.m.-5:30 p.m.; closed Christmas Day.

(TDD)

Web site www.si.edu When to Go Anytime Author's Rating

A

must i6rfirsi^tJrn#

How Much Time to Allpw

Mall visitors.

30 minuted

****

\

—

—

Description and Comrr^ents This red Brick building you can't miss it contains no exhibits.The Castle served 4s an informcition center that will help you save time and trouble and reduce the frustration that comes from visiting the Smithsonian's large and perplexing film.

It's

talk to

Step into one of the two theaters to see the 20-minute good idea of what each museum has to offer.Then you can

museum complex.

a bit long but gives a

someone

at the information

multilingual assistance).

A

nifty

museums on the

each of the

map

desk for exhibit

Mall, as well as

specific directions

on the east

and advice (including

up the location of

wall lights

other popular D.C.

sights,

when you

press

the corresponding button.

US, Holocaust Memorial Museum Type of Attraction A museum and memorial tion and

murder of 6

million

presenting the history of the persecu-

Jews and others by Nazi Germany during World

War

II

(Self-guided tour)

Location 100 Raoul Wallenberg Place, SW (formerly 15th Street), near the Mall between the Washington Monument and the Bureau of Engraving and Printing. Entrances are on Raoul V^attenbergPfe^e and 14th Street

Nearest Metro Station Smithsonian^(lndependence Avenue

Admission

Hours

exit)

Free

Daily 10 a.m.-5:30 pjTrTclosed Christmas

Day andYom

Kippur.

Phone (202)488-0400

Web site vAvw.ushmm.org When to Go After favorable publicity generated the spring of 1993, the Holocaust long lines at ting in line

day only).

its

no

If

permanent

crowds following

in line

its

opening

in

opens

at 10 a.m., plan

on

get-

be sure of getting a ticket (which are given out for that

you want to be sure of getting on

Comments

large

to a "time ticket" system to eliminate

exhibits. While the ticket office

later than 9 a.m. to

summer months, get Special

Museum went

a

morning tour during the busy spring and

by 8:30 a.m. For advance tickets,

According to Holocaust Museum

call

(800) 400-9373.

officials,

the main exhibit

is

210

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

inappropriate for children under age

the museum's

tors ages 8 and older

I

I

"Daniel's Story:

first floor,

—and we

agree. However, a special exhibit

Remember

No

ordered

advance through Tickets,

exhibitions. Tickets can also be

com.

400-9373; or order online at www.tickets.com.

Preschool —

Teens |

*i/2

and grim

—and

Young

|

Author's Rating As

its

•• ***

message about the

packs an emotional punch that ipaynet fitjome

How Much Time toAllo>Y

Over 30 •••1/2

|

adults

Seniors

|

designers intended, the Holocaust

delivers a stern

Description and

in

Group

Overall Appeal by Age

Grade school

on

visi-

tickets are required for the special,

nonpermanent Call (800)

designed for

is

on the Holocaust, but without the

gives a child's perspective

It

shocking graphics of the permanent exhibit.

the Children,"

evils

Museum

is

**** forbidding,

ugly,

of racial persecution.

folks' vacation plans.

It

also

**V2

IV2-2 hours

Comments

This $l68/million

museum

utilizes stunning, high-

tech audiovisual displays, advanted-comput^r technology, and a model of a Nazi death deliver a message about one of the darkest periods in human history. But that's As part of the museum experience, museum-goers are cast as "victims" of Nazi brutality. Visitors receive an identity card of a real Holocaust victim matched to their

camp to not

all.

—

sex and age other,

more

industrial

a

demographic double. The building attacks the emotions of

subtle, ways.

and forbidding

The

—

interior of the

spotless,

is

visitors in

relentlessly

pipes are exposed and rough surfaces of brick and concrete

are cold and unwelcoming. Diagonal walls effect.

museum, while

the exhibition areas create a disorienting

in

Ghostly shapes pass overhead on glass-bottomed walkways, suggesting Nazi

prison guards patrolling a camp. (Actually, they are visitors walking on footbridges link-

permanent exhibit

ing the

spaces.) Every

moment

museum

spent inside the

is

orches-

trated to impart the horror of Nazi persecution.

While many exhibits focus on Jewish and military events surrounding World

life

War

prior to the Holocaust and the political

II,

the most disturbing displays are graphic

depictions of Nazi atrocities. Large TV screens scattered throughout the exhibits pres-

ent life

still

and motion pictures of Nazi leaders, storm troopers rounding up victims, and

inside Jewish ghettos.

Some

of the TV screens are located behind concrete barriers

to prevent younger (and, inadvertently, shorter) visitors from seeing them. They executions, medical experiments on Jewish prisoners, and suicide victims. strong, grim

It's

show very

stuff.

Touring Tips

Given the unrelenting horror of

its

subject matter, the Holocaust

Museum is at best sobering and, at worst, depressing.There's no bright gloss to put on and anyone visita museum chronicling the systematic murder of six million people ing the Holocaust Museum during a vacation should keep that in mind before placing it .

on

his

or her touring agenda, especially

Other Things to Do Nearby prime

real estate

if

.

.

traveling with small children.

The Holocaust Memorial Museum occupies some

near the Mall, the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, the Washington

Monument, the Tidal Basin, the FDR Memorial, and the Jefferson Memorial, so finding things to do before or after a tour of the museum is easy.The Museum Annex on Raoul Wallenberg Place has

a small deli/cafe that's expensive but convenient.

Vietnam Veterans Memorial Type of Attraction A memorial

to U.S. soldiers

who

died

in

Vietnam

Zone l:The National On

Location

21

I

the west end oTthe Mall nearl:he Lincoln Memorial

Nearest Metro Statior^

Admission

Mall

Bottom/GWU

froggy

Free

Hours

Daily 8 a.m.-

Phone

(202)426-6841

1:45 p.m.

1

Closed Christmas Day.

Web site http://thewall-usa.com When to Go Anytime Comments

Special

At

night this

memorial

matches to search for names inscribed on the

Overall Appeal by Preschool

especially

moving

people

as

light

Age Group

•

Teens |

**

Grade school

is

wall.

Young

J

•• ***

adults

|

Over 30

|

Seniors

•••• ****

Author's Rating Deeply moving. **:^/2

How Much Time

td(Allow 30 minutes

Description and

Comments

inscribed with the

names of the more than 58,000 Americans who died

j

Many

Thtrlong, narrow wall of polished black stone

is

Vietnam.

memorial make rubbings of loved ones' names, while others leave

visitors to the

flowers, military medals, letters, and in

in

gifts

along the base of the wall. The wall, a black

rift

the earth, packs an emotional wallop.

Touring Tips names and the

At both ends of the panel

number to

help

wall visitors will find

them

books that

list

the inscribed

locate an inscription.

Other Things to Do Nearby The Lincoln Memorial, the Reflecting Pool, the $18 million Korean War Veterans Memorial, and Constitution Gardens are close by. Across from the

Mall,

the National

Academy

of Sciences features science exhibits and a statue

of Albert Einstein with a lap that's large enough to

sit in

for picture-taking. For food, walk

up 23rd Street toward Foggy Bottom and an assortment of restaurants and carryouts.

Voice of America Type of Attraction The

Government's overseas radio broadcasting studios.

U.S.

A

guided tour

Location Tours meet

at the

Nearest Metro Station

Admission

C

Street entrance between Third and Fourth Streets,

Federal Center

SW.

SW

Free; reservations are required and

no groups larger than 20 people are

allowed

Hours The 45-minute

tours are Monday-Friday at 10:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m., and 2:30 p.m.,

except holidays.

Phone (202)619-3919

Web

site

Special

www.voa.gov

Comments A "must"

Overall Appeal by Age Preschool

for

news

junkies.

Group

—

Teens

•

|

Over 30

|

Grade school

*

|

Young adults

Author's Rating

Fascinating and informative.

How Much Time

to Allow 45 minutes

**

**V2

|

Seniors

•• **

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

2 2

Description and

Comments

After a short video about the

some

able tour guide walks you through

hear radio announcers reading newscasts

Worldwide, the

VOA

broadcasts originate

Ben Shahn events;

in

the

940s. But mostly this

1

You should

Touring Tips

call

is

the knowledge-

where you see and

languages such as Arabic, Estonian, and Urdu. 1

00 shortwave radio transmitters, and

some murals

also see

in this building. You'll

would bore most children

it

in

more than

operates

VOA,

of the agency's 34 studios,

all

painted by noted artist

a tour for people interested

in

media and world

silly.

to reserve a place on a tour, but individuals and small

groups won't have trouble joining a tour by

showing up a few minutes before a

just

scheduled departure.

Other Things to Do Nearby

The U.S. Botanic Garden is around the corner on is two blocks away. For lunch, try the L'Enfant Plaza underground shopping mall, which on weekdays is usually jammed with bureaucrats and finding it. But don't go on weekends: Most restaulooking for good, cheap food Maryland Avenue, SW, and the Mall

—

rants are closed and the place

and

cafes;

is

dead. Capitol

has a wide assortment of restaurants

Hill

another good choice for off-the-Mall eating

Type of Attraction A monument

On

the Old Post Office Pavilion.

Monument

Washington

Location

is

the Mall/between

1

to the

first U.S.

aMJ

5th

president

7th Streets,

NW

Nearest Metro Statron Smithsonian

Admission

Hours

—

^"^

Free

Daily 9 a.m.-4:45 p.m.

The monument may be closed

thunderstorms and

in

during periods of sustained high winds (not out of fear that the giant obelisk ble,

but to protect visitors waiting

in

on

line

exposed

this

will

tum-

hilltop). In addition,

the

grounds surrounding the monument may be closed during security

alerts;

Street entrance. The ticket kiosk

better to get there

early as

on

it's

is

open from 8 a.m.—4:30

p.m.;

it's

use the 15th

a first-come, first-served basis.

Phone (202)426-6841

Web site www.nps.gov/wamo When to Go At 7:30 a.m. to pick up a time ticket. Comments

Special

Skip this

one

bad weather

in

drinks or large bags are allowed into this

—

ticket" system to eliminate the long lines that used to

of the

monument.

until

all

1

ticket for the trip

,400 tickets run out.

With only 50 1

tickets given

on busy days and by reserved

in

view can be

1

wrap three times around the base

out per

half hour,

on slow

for

all

in

by

morning

calling

(800)

Preschool

go

tickets

on your

first. Tickets

967-2283

by clouds, too bad. Refunds are given only

Overall Appeal by Age

hours are 8 a.m. ticket.

the tickets are usually gone by 9:30 a.m.

days; early

fee

a

later that day; kiosk

5 minutes before the time printed

v/ww.reservations. nps.gov. There's a $2 service charge per ticket

Grade school

food,

maximum of six per person) at the kiosk monument grounds.Then return at the time

up the elevator

Show up

:30 p.m.

advance

the view's socked

No

lousy.

Pick up the free tickets (a

located on 15th Street on the edge of the

stamped on your

^the

monument. The Park Service operates a "time

if

.

.

the

.

or

and

can be

online

if it's

raining

monument

is

|

|

Author's Rating Obligatory

Teens

Young

••••• *****

adults

for first-time visitors.

|

Over 30

|

Seniors

*****

or

closed.

Group

•••• *****

at:

••••• *****

—3 ZoneJiThe National

How Much Time to Allow observation deck can seem

Once you make

it

an eternity.

\

like

Description and

Comments

other

(it's

tall

not

if it's

buildings raining.

2

1

to the top, 30 minutes on the cramped

/

At the top youVe-^OJ^at^up, and

a law) guarantees a glorious,

For most people, a first-time

Mall

D.C.'s

absence of

unobstructed view of Washington

trip to

Washington

isn't

complete without

most of them are surprised when they reach the cramped observation deck: You almost have to elbow your way to the tiny windows to see anything.The view, however, is great. Nobody's ever disappointed once they see it

an ascent of this famous landmark. Yet

The new, year-round "time

Touring Tips in line

for the elevator trip to the top of the

of 2000 after renovations. (The wait

ticket" system eliminates three-hour waits

monument, which reopened

line

in

now reduced

is

in

the

summer

to about half an hour for

visitors.) Bathrooms are located behind the outdoor amphitheater on the monument grounds and the snack bar near the ticket kiosk, but use them only in desperate

most

situations:They are usually

the the food courts

in

dirty.

A

nearby snack bar

Other Things to Do Nearby

Bureau of Engraving and

National

Museum

is

of American History, and the National Aquarium. At

it is

end of the Mall (toward the

at the

other

one end of the

a nice day

If it's

and you're

between the Washington Monument tree-lined, tranquil, and not nearly as crowded

museumed-out, explore the stretch of the and the Lincoln Memorial. Much of

is

At hand

Holocaust Memorial Museum, the

Printing, the

the Lincoln Memorial; the U.S. Capitol

as the east

overpriced; during the week, try

You're at the heart of tourist Washington:

are the

Mall

is

the Old Post Office Pavilion and the Ronald Reagan Building.

Mall

U.S. Capitol).

I The White House Type of Attraction The

residence of the president of the United States

official

(Self-

guided tour)

Location 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue,

Nearest Metro Stations

Phone (202)456-7041

Web

or (202) 456-2121 (TDD)

site v/ww.whitehouse.gov

Special

more

NW

Federal Triangle

Comments

House

Public tours of the White

are available for groups of

people. Requests must be submitted through one's

accepted up to 6 months

in

member

a first-come, first-served basis approximately

date.

You must submit your request

number

as

of tours available. Note: White

lation. All visitors

should

7041 to determine

if

call

Author's Rating effort for this

1

1

2:30 p.m., and are scheduled in

advance of the requested

as possible since there are only a limited

House tours may be

subject to last-minute cancel-

the 24-hour Visitors Office information

Teens

|

|

Young

made

in

line at

(202) 456-

the tour schedule.

•••/i

adults

••*•

|

|

Over 30 Seniors

•••• ••**

During high tourist season, the tour requires too much time and

5-minute experience.

How Much Time to Allow do something

month

Group

•• school ••*

Preschool

Grade

soon

I

any last-minute changes have been

Overall Appeal by Age

or

advance. These free, self-guided tours are scheduled Tuesday

through Saturday (excluding federal holidays) 7:30 a.m. to

on

1

of Congress and are

**

Block out an entire morning, even though there's time to

else (like eat breakfast) before

your scheduled tour

214

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

Description and Connments

First things first: You

seeing the president on this tour of the

have absolutely zero chance of

White House. The

all-too-quick tour passes

through the ubiquitous metal detectors and into the East Wing lobby; look out the win-

dow

Rose Garden. Then it's up the stairs to the East Room, the Green Room, Room, the Red Room, and the State Dining Room and you're done! It's hard

into the

the Blue

—

to dispute the emotional pull of the presidential residence or if

you're on a first-time

the White

The

visit

House on another

visitor

center

is

mansion for those

lic

who

We

in

the

or winter

fall

and attractive, featuring

on the White House,

on

September

lots of carpeting, places to

a gift shop,

and

out of bed before dawn to get

didn't crawl

haven't been

after the events of

preferably

trip,

large

nice rest rooms, static displays

Touring Tips

sumptuous beauty, but

its

to Washington and on a limited schedule, consider visiting

a tour since the

in line

sit,

tour of the

for a ticket.

White House closed to the pub-

2001, but be forewarned:

I,

I

a video

the past, holding a

in

tour ticket sometimes meant an hour-long wait before the tour actually began.

Other Things to Do Nearby St.

John's Episcopal Church,

Across from the White House on Lafayette Square

known

"The Church of the

as

is

Presidents," because every

president since Madison has attended services here. Step inside the small church to its simple design; on most Wednesdays at noon there's an organ recital. Behind the White House stands the Washington Monument, another D.C. edifice that requires time tickets. Pick them up at the kiosk on 5th Street.

view

1

Zone

Capitol Hill

2:

Fo/ger Shakespeare Library Type of Attraction A museum and Location 20

1

Hours

Bard (Self-guided tour)

East Capitol Street, SE

Nearest Metro Stations

Admission

library dedicated to the

Capitol South, Union Station

Free

Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.—4 p.m.; tours at

on Saturday; closed on

federal holidays.

Garden

Saturday of each month. There are tours at

I

a.m.

I

daily,

and

I

I

a.m. and

I

p.m.

open April-October on every third 10 a.m. and a.m.; call (202) 675-0395 for is

I

I

group tours.

Phone

(202) 544-4600

Web site www.folger.edu When to Go Anytime Special

Comments

The

Overall Appeal by Age Preschool

library

is

available only to accredited scholars.

Group

—

Teens •Va

|

Over 30

|

Grade school Author's Rating

*

Dull.

**

|

Seniors

•• **

•*

How Much Time to Allow Description and

Young adults

|

I

Comments

hour

The

Folger

House

is

the world's largest collection of

Shakespeare's printed works, as well as a vast array of other rare Renaissance books and manuscripts. But unless you're a scholar doing research, you can't see any of stroll

it.

Instead,

the Great Hall, featuring hand-carved, oak-paneled walls and priceless displays

from the museum's

collection.

You may

also visit the three-tiered Elizabethan theater,

215

2 6

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

1

with walls of timber and plaster and carved oak columns. The Folger

is

an incongruous

Olde Eng-

attraction that holds appeal only for people with a love of language, Merrie land,

and the theater. But

Touring Tips conducted

grown at

Night's

much

Guided tours of the

daily at

I

a second or third trip to Capitol

Hill.

and the Elizabethan garden are

building, exhibits,

a.m. Special tours of the garden, featuring herbs and flowers

I

Shakespeare's time, are held every third Saturday from April through October

a.m. and

1

mer

in

worth a peek on

It's

I

I

a.m. At the

Dream

west end of the

Puck from A Midsum-

building, a statue of

generally presides over a fountain and pool. The Folger doesn't have

of interest for kids, unless yours have a fondness for gardens or exhibits on

Eliz-

abethan England.

OtherThings to Do Nearby which

The

Folger

directly behind the Library of Congress,

is

Supreme Court

front of the U.S. Capitol.The

sits in

is

less

than a block away. Walk

south on Second Street, SE, to find a wide array of restaurants and cafes.The sixth-floor cafeteria in the Library of Congress's

Madison Building

is

a cheap lunch option.

Library of Congress Type of Attraction The

world's largest library (Guided and self-guided tours)

Location

on Capitol

First Street, SE,

Nearest Metro Station

Admission

Hours

Hill

Capitol South

Free

Exhibition areas

in

the newly restored Jefferson Building are open

Saturday, 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m.; the library

mas and minute

New Year's

10:30 a.m., I

on the

film I

is

Days.The Visitors Theater library's mission.

in

the Jefferson Building shows a free

1

2-

Free guided tours are offered Monday-Friday, at

1:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m., 2:30 p.m.,

and 3:30

p.m.,

and Saturdays

and 2:30 p.m. Groups are limited to 50 people;

1:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m.,

Monday-

closed Sundays, federal holidays, and Christ-

tour (for that day only) at the Information Desk located

ground floor on the west side of the Jefferson

at 10:30 a.m.,

sign

up for any

in

the visitor center (on the

Building). Pick

up your tickets 10 minutes

before the tour begins.

Phone

(202) 707-8000

Web site www.loc.gov When to Go Anytime Special

Comments A

erary, but consider

Overall Appeal by Age Preschool

the library might not be on most

trip to

making an exception

in this

folks'

vacation

itin-

case.

Group

—

•• *** Impressive and informative. **** Teens

|

Over 30 •••1/2

|

Grade school Author's Rating

*

How Much Time to Allow

Young

|

adults

|

Seniors

****

hour for the guided tour and another hour to browse

I

the exhibits.

Description and

Comments

gress: the Jefferson, Madison,

and

on here, take one of the guided

Three huge structures make up the Library of Con-

Adams

Buildings.

tours. (To get the

minute video about the varied workings of the an hour, you can look at other exhibits

in

For an understanding of what goes

most out of the

library.)

tour, first see the

After the tour, which

1

2-

about

the Jefferson and Madison Buildings on your

own. Who should go? The Library of Congress holds strong appeal for in

lasts

books, academic research, American history, and antiquities.

On

folks interested

the other hand,

Zone because

it's

a lecture tour,

it is

2:

217

Capitol Hill

not suitable for young children, and most first-time

visi-

tors on a tight schedule shouldn't waste their valuable touring time here.

the spring of 1997 a permanent exhibit called "American Treasures of the Library

In

of Congress" marked the reopening of the Thomas Jefferson Building, under renovation since

1

984. The rotating exhibition

and most

the Great Hall features 200 of the library's rarest

in

such as Thomas Jefferson's rough draft of the Declaration of

significant items,

Independence, Abraham Lincoln's

Wilbur Wright's telegram to

first

his father

and second drafts of the Gettysburg Address, announcing the

Bernard Hermann's manuscript score for the

Although the Library consists of three

Touring Tips

Jefferson Building if

on

First

you have the time and

Street.The tour, with

its

The tours

interest. Note;

flight,

and

buildings, visitors enter at the

well-informed guide.

Is

way to go a good

the

are extremely popular, and

summer

idea to arrive early during the spring and

heavier-than-air

first

film classic Citizen Kane.

it's

to sign up for a tour later

In

the day.

Tickets are available for that day only. Special tours can be arranged for a group of 10

to 60 people through reservation only, the tour must occur begin as early as 9 a.m. or as late as

A permanent exhibit on

Monday through

Friday, to

p.m.

I

copyright located on the fourth floor of the Madison Build-

ing features the original Barbie

and Ken

dolls, Dr.

Martin Luther King

Jr.'s

"I

Have

a

Dream" speech, and the statue of the "Maltese falcon" used In the famous film of the same name. More temporary exhibits are located on the sixth floor Library materials available here go way beyond books. For Instance, the Library of Congress has an extensive collection of recorded music, broadcast material, and films. While ostensibly

these research materials are for "serious" researchers only, almost anyone with' a strong Interest in, say, the recordings of Jimmy Durante can find valuable information

and hear rare recordings. For musical material, go to the Recorded Sound Reference Center, located on the

ready to

first

floor of the

OtherThlngs to Do Nearby are

all

The

within a block or two. Capitol

of which

Madison

where

Building,

helpful librarians are

assist.

is

U.S. Capitol,

Hill

Supreme Court, and Folger Library

abounds with nearby lunch spots, not the

right here. The sixth-floor cafeteria in the

congressional staffers, and

from 12:30 p.m. to

it's

a

good

Madison Building

deal for visitors,

who

is

least

popular with

can grab a bite to eat here

3 p.m.

museum)

National Postal

Museum

Type of Attraction

Displays from the largest philatelic collection

(a Smithsonian

in

the world and

exhibits about the social, historical, and technological impact of the U.S. postal system (Self-guided tour)

Location Washington City Post

Office building, 2 Massachusetts Avenue, NE, next to

Union Station

Nearest Metro Station Union

Admission

Station

Free

Hours

Dally, 10

Phone

(202) 633-5555 or (202) 633-9849

a.m.-5:30 p.m.; closed Christmas Day.

(TDD)

Web site v/ww.postalmuseum.si.edu When to Go Anytime Overall Appeal by Age Preschool irV2

Grade school

***

Group Teens \

|

Young

•• **

adults

|

|

Over 30

icirVz

Seniors **i/2

218

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

Author's Rating

Nifty. And

How Much Time

to Allow 1-2 hours

Description and

Comments

one of America's 20 from the

ceiling in

and track a

the building that houses the

letter

million

It's

stamp

more

interesting than

the atrium, plus hands-on fun

Mall),

it's

how

in

relative proximity to

the mail

moved, the

is

each otherThemes focus on

importance of

social

call in

letters,

Due

to

its

small size (at least

street from Union Station,

in

it

many

a half-hour

folks will find

it

Other Things to Do Nearby full

The

library.

when compared to museums on or so. And because it's right across convenient to drop

a train. Docent-led "drop-in" tours are available at

I

I

a.m. and

Capital Children's

and

advance for appointments to

the museum's world-class collection or to use the extensive

easy to whiz through

away, making a

you're not

if

the chance to sort mail on a train

like

the beauty and lore of stamps. Serious collectors can in

—even

***

collectors. Kids will love the real airplanes hanging

adults are entertained while they're

see any stamp

sounds

it

stunning.

is

from Kansas to Nairobi. Exhibits are arranged so that children and

the history of mail service,

Touring Tips

museum

I

in

p.m.

Museum

is

the

the

while waiting for daily.

only a few blocks

—without

day of kid-oriented museum-hopping a distinct possibility

going near the Mall. Union Station's food

hall

can

satisfy

any food craving.

Union Station Type of Attraction A

spectacular interior space housing a transportation hub,

upscale shops, a theater complex, and a food court

Location Massachusetts Avenue ahdislorth Capitol

Nearest Metro Station Union

Admission

Street,

NE

Station

\

Free

Hours Shops open

Monday^^SsrtWFda^l

a.m.-9 p.m.; Sunday, noon-6 p.m.

Phone (202)289-1908

Web site www.unionstationdc.com When to Go Anytime Special

Connments The

food court's fare

is

on the expensive

side,

but the vast

selection justifies the extra cost.

Overall Appeal by Age Group.

•

Preschool

Grade school Author's Rating

.

**

A

is

••• x Young adults *** \

Over 30 •••1/2 Seniors ***i/2

"

I

1/2

|

beaux-arts palace and a great lunch'stop.

How Much Time to Allow Description and

—__„

„^

Teens

|

I

***y2

hour to wander;ionger for shopping or

Comments

The Main

Hall,

eating.

with a 90-foot barrel-vaulted

ceiling,

breathtaking. Shops run the gamut: chic clothing stores,The Great Train Store, book-

stores, Brookstone, the you'll find

Nature Company

everything from sushi to

ribs,

— 130

stores altogether

In

the food court

while a nine-screen cinema complex offers sol-

ace on a rainy day. There are also seven restaurants for dining or private functions, an international currency exchange, three sight-seeing

companies

With more than 25 attraction

in

million visitors a year,

Washington

Touring Tips Capitol

companies and three

rental car

on-site. First-time visitors to D.C. shouldn't miss this magnificent structure.

Hill is a

Union Station

(the National Air and Space

Union Station

is

is

Museum

the most-visited tourist is

number two).

a great jumping-off point for touring Washington.

few blocks away (step out the front and walk toward the

big

dome), and

Zone Town

Tourmobile, Gray Line, and Old day.

Maryland commuter trains

Trolley tours stop

MARC)

(called

timore, stopping at points between

Capitol

2:

roundtrip from Baltimore

(a

Monday through

Fri-

between D.C.and

Bal-

in front.

regularly shuttle

219

Hill

$l4).Virginia Railway

is

Express shuttles commuters and daytrippers from Fredericksburg, Manassas, and points in between to Union Station weekdays.To top it off, there's a Metro station in the base-

ment.

hard to believe that Washington functioned before Union Station's rebirth (at

It's

a cost of

more

than $ 00 million)

in

1

Other Things to Do Nearby cab:The neighborhood

is

1

988.

Kids

will love

marginal. The Postal

it,

but either walk

Museum

in

a

group or take a

next door to Union Station;

is

the U.S. Capitol, the Supreme Court, and the Library of Congress are close.

Garden

U.S. Botanic

Type of Attraction A permanent housed

in

collection of tropical, subtropical and desert plants

a stunning, fully renovated, 38,000-square-foot

SW (on the Mall Federal Center, SW

Location 100 Maryland Avenue,

Nearest Metro Stations

Admission

greenhouse (Self-guided tour)

near the U.S. Capitol)

Free

Hours

Daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m.

Phone

(202) 225-8333

Web site v/v^w. us bg.gov When to Go Anytime Special

Comments

Skip

it

on

a sweltering

summer

afternoon.

Overall Appeal by Age Group Preschool

•

Teens

••

••• •***

Over 30

[

|

Grade school irVi

Young

\

adults

**i/2

Author's Rating An excellent and comprehensive

How Much Time to Allow Description and

collection of plant

plantation

Comments

in

a tropical rainforest

people with green thumbs

most

folks will just

***

a building that reflects the

The Conservatory,

museum on

display orchids, ferns, cacti,

life.

30 minutes

grand manner of Victorian architecture (even though 1930s), houses a living

Seniors

|

under a dome that

was constructed

rises to

and other types of plants

will

it

the

it's

down

93

feet.

Other sections While

in naturalistic settings.

want to put these gardens on

want to know

sights along the Mall. You can sit

in

the Mall. The central jungle depicts an abandoned

their first-visit itinerary,

nearby for a quiet break from more hectic

here, relax, read a

book

—or

just

do nothing

in

a magnificent setting.

Touring Tips

Before or after strolling though

Bartholdi Park (open from

the Conservatory and

dawn

named

until dusk),

greenhouse,

for the designer of the Statue of Liberty.

tures displays of bulbs, annuals, and perennials. originally exhibited at the

this giant

visit

located across Independence

The

focal point

1876 Centennial Exhibition

in

is

Frederic

Avenue from

The park

fea-

Bartholdi Fountain,

Philadelphia.

Other Things to Do Nearby The National Air and Space Museum and the Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden are close, as is the U.S. Capitol (although to tour the building requires time tickets handed out early each morning). L'Enfant Plaza, about five

blocks away, has a shopping mall loaded with restaurants and fast-food outlets.

220

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

U,S. Capitol Type of Attraction The

building

Location

l^all

East end of the

where Congress meets (Guided tours

only)

Nea^rest Metro Stations Capitol South, Union Station

/^Adnnission Free

Hours The

"""^^^^

building

^^

open n^nday-Saturday, March-August, 9:30 a.m.-S p.m. and

is

I

September-February, 9 a.m.—4:30 ^p.m., for guided tours

I

\

Christmas, and

\ on

New Year's

Closed Thanksgiving,

only.

Days. Pickup free tickets at the Capitol Guide Service kiosk

the curving sidewalk southwest of'the Capitol (the Mall side, near the U.S. Botanic

\iarden). Ticket distribution begins at 9 a.m.;

if

you want one of the 450

(good

tickets

for that day only), arrive by 8 a.m.

Phone

Web

(202) 225-6827 for a recording or (202) 225-3 2 1

site

Comnnents

Special

1

for the Capitol switchboard

www.aoc.gov After closing to the public after September

reopened to guided tours only

December 200 1. A

in

shuttle

is

I

available

the Capitol

I,

from the

ticket

kiosk to the Capitol. Prohibited items include knives, pointed objects, pepper spray, duffle

and bottles.

bags, backpacks, aerosol cans,

Overall Appeal by Age Preschool

Group

•

Author's Rating

Young

|

awesome monument

*****

tour, j

Description and Connnifenits an

Seniors

|

***»*V2

hour for the

I

Over 30 ••••1/2

|

adults

Interesting and beautiful.

How Much Time to Allow

••• ****

Teens

|

Grade school **i/2

The

U.S. CapitoJ/manages to

be two things

at once:

to dem'otraey^aR4-cTTieof the most important places

the

in

world, as the frequent presence of reporters and film crews outside attests.The rather brief public tour,

however, takes visitors through only a small part of the Capitol: the

Rotunda and a few other rooms, which may include Statuary

chambers (when they're not

in

session),

Hall,

the

House or Senate

and the low-ceilinged crypt. From the soaring

Rotunda to the opulent rooms where the House and Senate meet, the Capitol physically beautiful

tour

is

and packed with historical significance. For first-time

both awe-inspiring and relatively quick (after you've picked up

TourlngTips

If

the

name

maps and other

it

make: coming to the Capitol without a

helpful touring

to either the

Congress operates.

is

one

Then

call

(202) 224-3 2

heavy on the history of the building, but

House or Senate chambers,

(Stick close to the guide

OtherThings to Do Nearby

pick

if

up. (Don't

goodies while you're there.) Don't

of your representative or of your senators?

locating an office. The free tour

makes

visitors

Go first to the office of your senator or representative to

forget to ask for

the

tickets).

your plans include viewing a session of Congress, don't make the time-

consuming mistake thousands of other gallery pass.

both

is

visitors,

you'll

1

if

1

know

for help

your group

get a good run-down on

you expect to hear the entire

how

spiel.)

Explore the rest of Capitol HilhThe Supreme Court

and Library of Congress face the Capitol's east front.

On

the other side, the east end of

the Mall features the U.S. Botanic Garden and the East Wing of the National Gallery of is famous for its bars and restaurants. To find them, walk toward ConAvenue and past the Library of Congress's Madison Building, located between Independence Avenue and C Street, NE.

Art. Capitol Hill stitution

Zone U.S.

2:

Capitol Hill

221

Supreme Court

Type of Attraction The Location One

nation's highest court (Self-guided tour)

First Street,

Admission

U.S. Capitol

NE. across from the east front of the

Nearest Metro Stations Union

South

Station, Capitol

Free

Monday-Friday, 9 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Free lectures are offered every hour on the half-hour between 9:30 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. when the court isn't in session. Closed Sat-

Hours

urdays, Sundays, and federal holidays.

Phone (202)479-3211

Web site www.supremecourtus.gov When to Go Anytime to tour the building. To

see the Court

in

session, the public

may attend oral arguments held Mondays,Tuesdays, and Wednesdays, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., in 2-week intervals from October through April; check the "A" section of the Washington Post

Special nessing

Comments

one of the

Seeing an oral argument here

Overall Appeal by Age Preschool

is

probably your best chance of wit-

major branches of the government

3

—

Teens |

Grade school

in

operation while

in

D.C.

Group

*

Young

|

Author's Rating Extremely

interesting

How Much Time to Allow

•• ***

Seniors

|

****

****

and enlightening.

hour to tour the

I

Over 30 •••!/2

|

adults

building; plan

at least 2 hours total

on

to see an oral argument.

Description and

Comments

final

courtroom and hear

a short lecture

explains the workings of the small

museum, a

gift

works

in

general.

Touring Tips line.

Two

lines

on

its

Supreme Court

in

session, visitors

in

how

in

Others should pass

To see an

more

line,

line,

visit

On

the ground floor

Is

a

is

a

on

arriving

no

is

who

just

want to

Bring quarters:You will have to place personal belongings

coin-operated (quarters only) lockers. Security here

slip in

like

how

the law

impressive.

later than 9 a.m. to get in

for those wishing to hear an entire

for folks

stun-

to the Supreme Court

detail.

up, although the building itself

oral argument, plan

form: a regular

hour), and a three-minute

may enter the

the federal government works, or it

where the

workings. An excellent 20-minute film

shop, a cafeteria, and a snack bar. A

must for anyone interested

is

interpretations of the U.S. Constitution and

laws passed by Congress. When the Court's not ning

Greek temple

This magnificent faux

nine-member Supreme Court makes

for a

argument

(an

few moments.

backpacks and cameras

in

no-nonsense: Visitors pass

is

through two X-ray machines before entering the courtroom, where very serious-looking security people patrol the aisles. Small children are not allowed in the courtroom during oral

arguments.

Other Things to Do Nearby

The U.S. Capitol, the Library of Congress, the Museum, and the Folger Shakespeare Library are all close by The comfortable cafeteria on the ground level of the Supreme Court is one of the better government eateries. It's open for breakfast from 7:30 a.m. to 0:30 a.m. and for lunch from 1:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. except for 15-minute periods when only Court employees may enter Capitol Hill is renowned for its many bars and cafes, many of which are a short National Postal

1

I

walk up Second Street,

SE.

222

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

Zone

Downtown

3:

Federal Bureau of Investigation Type of Attraction reopen

Location Tenth

NW, at

Street,

Pennsylvania Avenue. Visitor's entrance

at Ninth

is

and

NW

E Streets,

Phone

headquarters; closed for renovations and scheduled to

FBI

2005 or 2006

in late

(202) 324-3447

Web site

www.fbi.gov

Ford's Theatre! Petersen

Type of Attraction The house across the

Location

5

1

I

street,

House

restored theater where

where he died

Tenth Street,

Hours

Lincoln

was

shot, and the

NW

Nearest Metro Station Metro Center,

Admission

Abraham

(Self-guided tour)

I

I

th Street exit

Free

Daily,

9 a.m.-5 p.m.; closed Christmas Day.

Phone (202)426-6924

Web

—wvvw.fordstheatre.org or —www.nps.gov/foth/hwld.htm

site Ford's Theatre

Petersen House

When

Go Anytime Comments The

to

Special

theater (but not the

museum)

Thursday and Sunday afternoons, when matinees are

on other afternoons when rehearsals are Overall Appeal by Age

is

closed to visitors on

progress.

It

may

also be closed

progress.

Group

•

Preschool

in

in

Teens

••

Over 30 ••1/2

|

|

Grade school

irVi

Author's Rating An

Young

\

adults **i/2

interesting, but small,

Seniors

|

museum; the theater

is

***

a reconstruction of

the original interior **!/2

How Much Time to Allow Description and

I

Comments

hour Don't miss the recently updated Lincoln

Museum

in

the basement of the theater, featuring the clothes Lincoln was wearing the night he was

shot and the derringer used to

kill

him. Across the street, Petersen

House

glimpse of nineteenth-century Washington. Ford's Theatre, both the

where

Lincoln

was

shot,

is

small.

Unless you're a history

buff, this

is

offers a

museum and

mostly a

fill-in

stop,

at least for first-time visitors.

Touring Tips

Start with the theater, then view the

museum

in

the basement before

crossing the street to Petersen House.

OtherThings to Do Nearby The International Spy Museum, the National Portrait Gallery, and the American Art Museum are all close. For lunch, it's four or five blocks to Chinatown, two blocks to the Old Post Office Pavilion, or just down the street to the Hard Rock Cafe.

International Spy

Museum

Type of Attraction The history and gadgetry ington's newest museums (Self-guided tour)

of espionage housed

in

one of Wash-

Zone Location 800

Admission $

223

Statiort Gallery Place

3 for

I

Downtown

NW'

F Street.

Nearest Metro

3:

adul\ages

2-64;

1

$12 for

com-

seniors 65+, active-duty military,

munity and college students;^tOfer children ages 5-11, children ages 4 and under

Hours

a.m.-8

9

April-August,

Daily,

August-October,

p.m.;

October-March,

10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and

Phone

museum (779-687386) or (202) 654-0944

(866) spy

Web site vwvw.spymuseum.org When to Go After the spook

museum opened

in

free.

a.m.-8

p.m.;

New Year's

Days.

10

summer of 2002, lines minimum wait in line of 45

the

stretched around the block throughout the day, signaling a

minutes (from the middle of the block on Ninth Street) or longer Either arrive at least or plan to visit around 5 p.m. weekdays, when there's usually

a half-hour before 9 a.m.

no

wait.

Special

Comments

There's a long, steep

of stairs to descend about halfway

flight

through the museum.

Overall Appeal by Age

Grade school

Group

•

Preschool

••• Young adults *** Teens

|

***

|

Spycraft meets Austin Powers:

Author's Rating

and dodges some important moral questions (and operations. Otherwise, of world-class

it's

fun

in

Over 30 ••• ***i/2

|

Seniors

|

The museum

is

slick,

manipulative

historical failures) of U.S. intelligence

an empty-headed sort of way (and located

in city full

museums, most of them keey.^Vi

How Much Time

to Allow 90 minutes to 2 hours.

CIA headquarters across the Potomac in Lanowned museum offers the next best thing: a look at the secret world of intelligence. More than 400 artifacts are on display, ranging from items dating from Biblical times to the modern age of terror What you'll see: tools of the trade such as a lipstick pistol developed by the KGB, an Enigma cipher an machine used by the Allies to break German secret codes during World War Aston Martin DB 5 sports car decked out like the one used by James Bond in Goldfingenand tributes to celebrity spies such as dancer Josephine Baker (who worked for the Description and

Comments

gley isn't offering tours, this

Since

$40

million privately

II,

French resistance) and

late

TV

chef

Julia

won't see: Any mention of spectacular CIA, NSA,

Child

(who worked

for the OSS).

What you how the

failures of U.S. intelligence, including

DIA and other alphabet-soup

spy agencies missed the

fall

of the Soviet

and helped overthrow elected governments around the world. Alas, the museum's us-versus-them mentality spares visitors from the moral ambiguity of intelligence gathering.To get that insight, skip the museum and curl up with

Union and the Shah of

a novel by

John

Touring Tips

le

Carre

corridors in

—making

mind

as

(a

former

spy).

is one of those museums where visitors are herded into an elesecond floor and everyone negotiates their way through narrow

This

vator, taken to the

that

Iran,

it

difficult

to linger or backtrack against the

human

current.

Keep

you tour

Other Things to Do Nearby The National Portrait Gallery and the Smithsonian American Art Museum are across the street; currently under renovation, the museums are scheduled to reopen in July 2006. Ford's Theatre/Petersen House (where Lincoln was assassinated/died) are a block over on Tenth Street N.W The booming downtown area is teeming with new restaurants. For classy Mexican cuisine, try Andele

at

Seventh and D.

226

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

biology, exploration,

and space science.

also a bit heavy

It's

embarrassing to adults. For example. Earth Station simulates orbital

flight

One

is

on quizzes that could prove a 72-seat

punch buttons as they answer geography questions posed by the

Touring Tips

shown on Tuesdays

M

Street

Other Things to Do Nearby

The in,

6th Street; you can't go

National

Type of Attraction The

a great spot for a

brown-bag lunch. Free

still-imposing Russian

embassy

is

around the

but check out the array of antennas on the roof.

of Women

Museum

is

noon.

at

corner on

1

lets kids

"captain."

Don't miss the extensive sales shop that offers books, videos, maps,

and magazines. The courtyard on films are

amphitheater that

23,000 miles above the earth. The interactive program

in

the Arts

most important

world's single

collection of art by

women

(Self-guided tour)

New York Avenue, NW

Location 1250

Nearest Metro Station Metro Center

Admission $8

for adults;

Hours Monday-Saturday, Christmas, and

Phone

$6 for seniors 60+ and students, free for ages 18 and under 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sunday,

New Year's

noon-5

p.m. Closed Thanksgiving,

Days.

(202) 783-5000

Web site www.nmwa.org When to Go Anytime Special tion

Comments

Unfortunately, this beautiful

museum

is in

an inconvenient loca-

on the edge of downtown.

Overall Appeal by Age

Group

•

Preschool

Grade school

Young

|

Author's Rating Both the

adults

Over 30 •••1/2 Seniors ***i/2

|

***

|

building and the art are superb.

How Much Time to Allow Description and

Teens ••'/2

|

**

***i/2

1-2 hours

Comments

This relatively

new museum

has a permanent collec-

tion of paintings and sculpture that includes art by Georgia O'Keeffe, Frida Kahio, and

Helen Frankenthaler, as well as art by ent.

From the

outside,

it

looks

like

women from

the sixteenth century to the pres-

any other office building along crowded

New York

Avenue. But inside the former Masonic Grand Lodge are striking architectural features such as a crystal chandelier, a main

hall

and mezzanine, and the Grand Staircase. The

is where you'll find the Next door, a new annex that opened in the fall of 1997 allowed the museum to expand the amount of artwork on display, including sculpture and contemporary works by lesser-known women artists.While this beautiful museum well off

second-floor balcony hosts temporary exhibits; the third floor

permanent

collection.

the beaten path deserves to be seen by

enjoy

it

on

more

people, first-time visitors can wait and

a later trip.

Touring Tips Take the elevator to the fourth (top) floor and work your way down. The mezzanine features an attractive cafe offering "light fare," and there's a gift shop on the ground floor

OtherThings to Do Nearby A block away is the old Greyhound Bus Station, now Art Deco masterpiece; take a peek inside. The Capitol City Brewing Company brews beer on the premises and serves hearty fare like burgers to go with

a fully restored

it.

Zone

4:

Foggy Bottom

227

National Portrait Galler y (a Smithsonian museum) This

museum dosed

major renovations

for

museum dosed

major renovatons

for

scheduled to reopen

is

in

2006.

in

January

2000 and

scheduled to reopen

is

in

2006.

Foggy Bottom

Zone

4:

John

Kennedy Center

F.

January 2000 and

Museum(a Smithsonian museum)

Smithsonian A merican Art This

in

Type of Attraction Both

for th e Performing Arts

presidential

memorial and

performing arts headquar-

D.C.'s

ters (Guided tour for groups only)

Location

New

Hampshire Avenue,

Nearest Metro Station Foggy

Admission

NW, and

F Street

Bottom/GWU

Free

Hours

Daily, 10 a.m.-midnight.

Phone

(202) 4 6-8340; (202) 4 6-8524 (TTY) 1

1

Web site www.kennedy-center.org When to Go Free tours begin every on Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m.Special

Comments

The Kennedy Center Overall Appeal by Preschool

The is

1

15 minutes; Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.,

and

p.m.

leisurely

tour

lasts

about 45 minutes but

is

easy on the feet:

well carpeted.

Age Group

•

Teens

•

Over 30 ••^a

|

\

Grade school

*

Author's Rating So-so

How Much Time Description and

Young

|

huge

art, a

to Allow

I

adults

building,

**

Seniors

|

and a great view.

***

**

hour

Comments

The white

rectilinear

Kennedy Center

facility

boasts

four major stages, a film theater, and a sumptuous interior shimmering with crystal, mirrors, and deep-red carpets. The Grand Foyer is longer than two football fields. Nations from around the world contributed art and artifacts on display in halls and foyers, such as African art, Beame porcelain, tapestries, and sculptures. If rehearsals aren't in

progress, the tour includes peeks inside the intimate Eisenhower Theater, the

House

(featuring a spectacular chandelier),

Admirers of JFK and culture vultures

will

and the Concert

Hall,

Opera

which seats 2,750.

love the tour, while kids will probably get

bored. But you don't have to take the tour to enjoy the view; take the elevators to the

roof terrace.

TouringTips While the guided tour is leisurely and informative, the best way to visit the Kennedy Center is to attend a concert, play, or film. Before or after the event, go up

—the view

to the seventh floor and stroll the roof terrace round-trip shuttle service from the Foggy 1

a.m. to midnight every

day at 6 p.m.

in

1

Bottom Metro

at night

station

5 minutes. Also, don't miss the free

is

is

terrific.

Free

offered daily from

performance given every

the Grand Foyer.

You can lunch or snack at the Kennedy Center's Encore Cafe without securing a second mortgage on your house, but the Roof Terrace Restaurant is expense-account priced. The infamous Watergate project is across

Other Things to Do Nearby

228

G

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

Kennedy Center and features expensive shops and

Street from the

you won't

find

and jogging path along the Potomac River

ing

low

restaurants, but

any memorial to a certain burglary that occurred there is

in

1

972. A bik-

below the Kennedy Center;

just

upriver to Thompson's Boat Center, which rents canoes and bikes.

it

farther

is

A

fol-

little

Washington Harbour, an upscale collection of shops, restaurants, and con-

dominiums, featuring add

artists that

and

life-size

sculptures of tourists, joggers, workers, and

lifelike

whimsy to

a bit of

scenic

al

fresco dining along the

river.

Hard-core

Walk up Wisconsin Avenue and crowded sidewalks. Before

walkers can continue along the path into Georgetown.

and you enter a world of trendy shops, restaurants,

you walk too to

far,

where you

remember

that

Department of the

U.S.

Georgetown

lacks a

Metro

station to get

you back

started.

Type of Attraction A museum

Interior located inside a square-mile chunk of government

bureaucracy (Self-guided tour)

Location

1

849

C

NW, between

Street,

1

8th and

1

9th Streets

Nearest Metro Station FarragutWest

Admission

Hours

must show

Free; adults

photo ID to enter

a

Monday-Friday, 8:30 a.m.—4:30 p.m., and every third Saturday, 1-4 p.m.; other-

wise, closed

Phone

weekends and

federal holidays.

(202) 208-4743

Web site v^v/w.doi.gov When to Go Anytime Special

Comments Go

on

a rainy day. Adults

must show

a

photo ID to enter the

building.

Overall Appeal by Age

Group

•

Preschool

Teens

•

Over 30

|

Grade school

**

|

Young

|

Boring. * How Much Time to Allow

adults

*

Seniors

|

• *

Author's Rating

Description and 16 acres of floors,

45 minutes

Comments two

This six-wing, seven-story limestone edifice includes

miles of corridors

mines and geothermal power

plants.

—and an old-fashioned museum. Dioramas of

Native American

artifacts,

and a

historical exhibit

crowd the rather dark and quiet exhibit hall. This is defimuseum, unless you have a strong interest in national parks.

of the National Park Service nitely a rainy-day kind of a

Touring Tips Survey load up

map

on brochures on any (or

office here.

and

Outdoors-people and map-lovers shouldn't miss the

store, located off the lobby

The

cafeteria can seat

1

from the museum entrance,

turquoise

,200 people (open weekdays, 7 a.m. to 2:45 p.m.).

The

DAR Museum

are around the corner on 17th Street; the Mall

gon, one of Washington's earliest and

is

and the Corcoran Gallery of Art

about two blocks south. The Octa-

most elegant homes,

18th Street. For places to eat, head north up any

Avenue.

sells

and other handicrafts made by Native Americans.The base-

OtherThings to Do Nearby

nia

U.S. Geological

building. You can also

U.S. national parks at the National Park Service

Indian Craft Shop, across

silver jewelry, baskets,

ment

all)

on the E Street side of the

numbered

is

half a

block north on

street toward Pennsylva-

Zone U.S.

Georgetown

5:

229

Department of State Diplomatic Reception Rooms

Type of Attraction The rooms where

visiting foreign dignitaries are officially

enter-

tained (Guided tour)

Location 2201

C

Street,

N)

Nearest Metro StatioryT&Kgy Bottom/GVyU

Admission

Hours

Free

Tours are given MonBajr-f ridayW^SO

vation only; which should be

made 4 weeks

1

Comments

See what $90 million

on the

2 are not permitted

tour,

vations are accepted up to 90 days affairs

tour

is

(TDD)

in

decorative arts can buy. Children under

strollers, briefcases,

advance of your

visit.

A

or backpacks. Reser-

short, optional public

Group

— Grade school —

|

Description and

to Allow

****

.,Jto,ung adults

(

Author's Rating Although most

How Much Time

•••Vi

Teens

Preschool

in

in

nor are

offered after the main tour

Overall Appeal by Age

work

0:30 a.m., and 2:45 p.m., by reser-

site w^ww. state .gov/m/drr

Special age

1

(202) 736-4474

Pll^me42D^4Z;324J;fax(202) 736*4232;

Web

a.m.,

advance.

in

I

Comments

tourists miss this,

|

Over 30

|

Seniors

••••• *****

*****

you shouldn't.

hour While the State Department goes about

its

important

a building with architecture best described as "early airport," the interiors

eighth floor are something else entirely:

A

nineteenth-century fine and decorative arts

fills

rooms

stunning

receive visiting heads of state and foreign dignitaries. This

is

overwhelming majority of in

DC. tourists

that are used daily to

a tour for

antique and fine arts lovers, history buffs, and just casual visitors.

get reservations well

on the

fabulous collection of eighteenth- and early

miss. First-time visitors should

advance of their trip.Then forget about

almost anyone:

also a sight that the

It's

visiting

make the effort to the White House.

Touring Tips By guided tour only; reservations are required and should be made at least four weeks in advance of your visit. Rest rooms are located near the waiting room and can be

and after the tour

visited before

Other Things to Do Nearby The Lincoln Memorial and Vietnam Veterans Memorial are a short walk away, down 23 rd Street to the Mall. The closest places to eat are a few blocks up 23rd Street, away from the

Zone

Mall.

Georgetown

5:

Dumbarton Oaks and Gardens Type of Attraction A mansion/museum and

garden (Self-guided

a beautiful terraced

tour)

Location

1

703 32nd Street, between R and S Streets,

Admission $ donation I

suggested for adults

seniors and children for the gardens March

1

NW, in Georgetown

for the museum. $6 fee for adults, $4 for 5-October only; free admission for the

rest of the year.

Hours Museum hours

are Tuesday-Sunday, 2-5 p.m.

permitting) Tuesday-Sunday,

November-March 14,2-5

The garden p.m.,

and

is

until

open (weather 6 p.m. the rest

230

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

museum and gardens

of the year. Both the Eve, and

Mondays.The gardens area

Phone

(202) 339-6400

are closed on federal holidays, Christmas

also closed during inclement weather.

is

Web site www.doaks.org When to Go Anytime Comments

Special

museums

best

Don't be put

Washington. There

in

Overall Appeal by Age Preschool

off is,

Teens

|

*

Young

|

Hovy Much Time to Allow Description and however,

it's

Over 30

••••

|

Seniors

*->?**

****

Most people associate Dumbarton Oaks with the pre-Columbian studies owned by Har-

one of the world's

is

finest, featuring

and jewelry.The exquisite pre-Columbian art collection

connected, circular glass pavilions

garden

|

***i/2

a research center for Byzantine and

barton Oaks Gardens is

is

lit

by natural

light. It's

located around the corner on

one of the top gardens

rated

one of the

is

1944 that led to the formation of the United Nations. Today,

vard University.The Byzantine collection ivories,

this

2 hours

Comments in

••Vi

adults

Author's Rating Intimate and gorgeous.

conference held here

—

Group

—

Grade school

by the hushed surroundings

however, no eatery and picnics are not allowed.

in

rose garden, wisteria-covered arbors and,

in

housed

is

in

bronzes,

eight inter-

knockout of a museum. DumR Street.The terraced ten-acre

a

the United States, featuring an orangery, a the

fall,

backdrop of trees turning

a blazing

Dumbarton Oaks isn't the kind of museum with much appeal and some adults may not find much of interest in the collection due

orange, yellow, and red. to small children,

to

its

visit

narrow

when

focus. But

TouringTips combine your visit,

combined with the adjacent gardens,

it's

a

worthwhile place to

Georgetown.

in

Because Dumbarton Oaks doesn't open visit

with a morning trip to Georgetown.

try to rearrange your schedule so

its

If it's

massive doors

until

raining the day

you plan to

you can come on a nice

2 p.m.,

day; the gardens are

terrific.

Other Things to Do Nearby byists, politicians,

ington

live. If

how

lob-

you made advance reservations to see Tudor House, Dumbarton Oaks

makes a great

side trip.

you won't have to go Canal, which starts

Zone

Take a walking tour of Georgetown and see

media gurus, and other well-connected and monied denizens of Wash-

6:

in

When

you get hungry, turn

far to find

left

or right on Wisconsin Avenue and

an interesting restaurant or cafe.The Chesapeake

Georgetown, can

offer near wilderness solace to

weary

& Ohio

tourists.

Dupont Circle/Adams-Morg an

The Brewmaster*s Castle (also known as The Christian Heurich House Museum) Type of Attraction The

lavish

home

of a wealthy turn-of-the-century Washington

businessman (Guided tour)

Location

1

307

New

Hampshire Avenue,

Nearest Metro Station Dupont

Admission $5 per

NW (two blocks south of Dupont Circle)

Circle

person; suggested donation

1

Zone Hours Wednesday

at

and can be made by

calling (202)

1

2:

1

6:

Dupont Circle/Adams-Morgan

5 p.m. and 1:15 p.m.

Group tours

23

are by reservation only

429-1894.

Phone (202)429-1894

Web

www.Heurichhouse.org

site

Comments

Special

Don't be put

Overall Appeal by Age Preschool

off

by the grimy exterior.

Group

—

Teens •Va

|

Over 30

\

Seniors

|

Grade school

*

Young

|

adults i^ifVi

Author's Rating An outrageous Gilded Age

How Much Time

to Allow

Description and

Comments

create

and

full

It's

doubtful that any

balcony that

lets live

Washington shouldn't

a later trip.

People

Touring Tips bag lunch. The

who

The

public

feel obligated

in

is

4 p.m., weather permitting; enter

in

Other Things to Do Nearby

to spend time here,

Trendy

it

is

open spring through at 1921

Walk

cafes, shops,

1

1

to

first floor. It

Washington. While most first-time

museum

small garden behind the

Victorian

side:

the early

love decorative arts should put

Garden

bohemian

built in

music be heard throughout the

may be the most opulent home open to the visitors to

***

amount of money could re890s: a regal, 3 -room mahogany and oak woodwork, elaborate plaster mold-

of richly detailed

a musician's

interior.

hour

what wealthy brewer Christian Heurich

mansion ings,

I

••• ***

it's

on their "A"

worth

a look

a popular spot for a fall,

on

list.

on weekdays

brown-

10 a.m. to

Sunderland Place.

Dupont

Circle for a whiff of Washington's

bookstores, and restaurants crowd Connecticut

Avenue. Expect to be panhandled about every 50 feet

in fair

weather; the street mer-

chants crowding around the Metro entrances suggest a Middle East bazaar. Note:

Good

deals can be had.

House of the Temple A

Type of Attraction

Masonic temple modeled after one of the Seven Wonders of

the World (Guided tour)

Location 1733

16th Street,

NW

Nearest Metro Station Dupont

Admission

Hours Guided

Phone

Circle

Free tours Monday-Friday, 8 a.m.-2 p.m.

(202) 232-3579

Web site www.srmason-sj.org/web/temple.htm When to Go Anytime Special

Comments

way too

long.

Unless you have an abiding interest

Overall Appeal by Age

Teens

•

Over 30 |

|

*

Young

|

Author's Rating Spectacular but

How Much Time to Allow below).

Freemasonry, the tour

is

Group

Preschool —

Grade school

in

cold.

adults

*

Seniors

|

• *

*

2 hours (less

if

you're willing to

fib

to the tour guide; see

232

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

Comments

Description and

The

walls are 8 feet thick; the exterior

by 33 massive columns that support a magnificent pyramidal roof; and,

Room

surrounded

is

inside, the

Temple

features a soaring 100-foot ceiling and 1,000-pipe organ. Unfortunately, with the

exception of the exterior, you have to take an excruciatingly boring guided tour to see these goodies.YouVe guaranteed to be bored orabilia belonging to long-dead J.

silly

by displays of bric-a-brac and

Masonic leaders. There

is

one

Edgar Hoover Law Enforcement Room, a shrine to the Mason and lifelong FBI

But unless you're a rabid fan of J. Edgar, after about two minutes

Touring Tips

Arrive around

on

p.m.

I

mem-

you'll

a quiet afternoon and

be

tell

.

.

.

chief.

bored.

the tour guide

may

you've got to catch a train at 2:30. Then plead for an abbreviated tour, which he grudgingly provide

if

there aren't any other tourists on-hand for a tour. But even

reduced to an hour, the tour

too

is

Other Things to Do Nearby safe

long.

The House

of the Temple

on the edge of a marginally

is

neighborhood, so make a beeline toward Dupont Circle, where

do. Six blocks

the

slightly bizarre treat:

you'll find plenty

to

west on S Street are theTextile Museum and the Woodrow Wilson House.

Islamic Center Type of Attraction A mosque

(Self-guided tour)

Location 2551 Massachusetts Avenue,

Nearest Metro Station Dupont

Admission

Free

Hours Monday-Saturday, non-Muslims between

Phone

When

NW

Circle

I

10 a.m.-5 p.m. and Sunday, 10 a.m.-2 p.m.; closed Fridays to

p.m. and 2:30 p.m.

(202) 332-8343

Go Anytime. Call ahead for a guided tour. Comments The mosque enforces a strict dress

to

Special

their shoes to

go

inside,

coderVisitors must

and no shorts or short dresses are allowed.

remove

Women

must

cover their heads and wear long-sleeved clothing.

Overall Appeal by Age

Group

•

Preschool

Teens JrVi

Over 30

|

|

Grade school

*!/2

Author's Rating Exotic and

How Much Time to Allow Description and this unusual sight

Young

|

adults

surprisingly small. 1

***

Seniors

|

*V2

5 minutes

Comments A

brilliant

white building and slender minaret mark

on Embassy Row. Visitors must remove

their shoes before stepping

inside to see the Persian carpets, elegantly embellished columns,

decorated arches, and

huge chandelier Alas, with America's focus on the Middle East and things

were disappointed on our

visit

to the Islamic Center:

useful insight into that troubled part of the world.

mosque was

filled

•• **

It fell

The

a

little

Islamic,

we

short on giving any

small bookstore next to the

with Arabic texts and translations of the Koran, but no one was

behind the counter to answer our questions.Though close to other tourist

sights,

the

mosque seems to have missed an opportunity to educate D.C. visitors about Islam. Those with a strong interest in the Middle East should call a week in advance for the one-hour guided

Touring Tips

tour.

Make

this small, exotic building a part of a

But unless you have an interest

in

Islam,

it's

walk down Embassy Row.

not worth going out of the way to see.

Zone Other Things to Do Nearby the

Woodrow

open. The

Dupont Circle/Adams-Morgan

Take a short walk and tour the Textile

On

Wilson House.

6:

233

Museum and

Tuesday through Saturday afternoons, the opulent

Anderson House

is

that's a refreshing

change of pace from huge Mall museums.

Phillips

Collection

is

an intimate

modern

art

museum

Meridian International Center Type of Attraction played

in

2 mansions designed by John Russell Pope; art exhibitions dis-

beautiful galleries;

handsome gardens and

a grove of linden trees (Guided and

self-guided tours)

Location

1

Admission

624 and

1

630 Crescent

Hours Wednesday-Sunday, 2-5 The

cafe

Phone

is

Place,

NW

Free p.m. Closed Mondays, Tuesdays, and federal holidays.

open Monday-Friday, noon-2 p.m.

(202) 939-5568

Web site www.meridian.org When to Go Anytime Special

Comments

Call

ahead of time or check

Washington Post to make sure the center

out what's on display

in

section of the

the galleries.

Overall Appeal by Age

Group

•

Preschool

"Weekend"

Friday's

closed (due to a conference) and to find

isn't

Teens irVi

Over 30

|

••

|

Grade school

ifVi

Young adults

\

Author's Rating Grand architecture and

• •1/2 How Much Time

to Allow

Description and

Comments Two

Pope

I

**

Seniors irifVi

|

a glimpse into the

world of diplomacy.

hour side-by-side mansions designed by John Russell

(architect of the Jefferson Memorial, the National Gallery of

Art

building,

and

other Washington treasures) make up the Meridian International Center, a nonprofit organization that promotes conferences, symposiums, lectures, and seminars and provides services to international visitors, diplomats, scholars, politicians, and others.

The 45-room Meridian House (1921) reflects an eighteenth-century French Louis style of architecture, while the White-Meyer House (1911) is a salmon-color brick, Georgian-style mansion. Visitors are welcome to tour the ground floors of the gorgeous though lightly furnished buildings and the surrounding gardens. About five art exhibits a year rotate through the galleries of the White-Meyer House. The XVI

—

—

three-acre

site,

set off

from the

city

by high, elegant walls, takes up an entire city

block.

Touring Tips While folks who enjoy grand architecture won't need additional encouragement to visit these two distinguished buildings, others should plan on coming in the spring when the gardens are in bloom and an art exhibition is on display in the elegant galleries. A small cafe in the basement of the Meridian House (which recently underwent a two-year, $ .8 million restoration) offers coffee, tea, and lunch. For a 1

guided tour of the property, just ask at the front desk

Other Things to Do Nearby hood renowned

for

its

Adams-Morgan, an

ethnic eateries,

is

only

in

either building.

eclectic multicultural neighbor-

two blocks away on

18th Street,

NW.

234

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

Phillips Collection

Type of Attraction The

first

museum

dedicated to

modern

art

in

the United States

(Self-guided tour)

Location

1

600 2

1

NW

st Street,

Nearest Metro Station Dupont

Circle

Admission Weekends: $8

$6 seniors 62+ and

for visitors 18 and

same

adults,

full-time students.

No

under During the week, the museum suggests contributions

charge at the

level.

Hours

Open Thursday

Tuesday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sunday, noon-5 p.m.

8:30 p.m. Closed Mondays,

New Year's

Day, Memorial Day, Fourth of

July,

until

Day, Martin Luther King,Jr.'s birthday. Presidents

Labor Day, Columbus Day, Thanksgiving, and Christ-

mas Days.

Phone (202)387-2151

Web site www.phillipscollection.org When to Go Anytime Comments

Special

a very comfortable

With

and places to

lots of carpeting

museum

to tour

The

cafe

the

sit,

Phillips

Collection

closed temporarily as the

is

is

museum

undergoes renovation and expansion.

Group

Overall Appeal by Age Preschool —

Grade school

Young

|

Author's Rating One of the best

How Much Time to Allovyr Description and

Comments

|

Over 30

|

Seniors

***i/2

museums

in

Washington.

Founded by Duncan

Company, the

helps explain

large for everything to

too

art

adults

•••• ****

****

2 hours

of the Jones and Laughlin Steel

mer mansion, which

••

Teens

|

*

its

Phillips

Phillips,

Collection

grandson of the founder set

is

in

the family's for-

intimate and comfortable feeling.The collection

be on display at once, so the art

is

is

constantly rotated.

Expect to see works by Monet, Picasso, Miro, Renoir, and Van Gogh, among other modRoom is as spectacular as the art hanging on

ern masters. The large and ornate Music its

walls.

If

you've seen the Hirshhorn and the National Gallery of Art's East Wing, this

should be on your agenda.

The

TouringTips free,

kids

It's

a classy

museum on

would probably prefer

45-minute guided tours given Saturdays

good job of

in

modern

human

at 2 p.m.

giving a context for the paintings

founder's taste

a

scale.

a trip to the zoo.Take advantage of the

The well-informed guides do

and sculptures, the

building,

Cross Massachusetts Avenue and see another eye-

popping mansion, the Anderson House (open Tuesday through Saturday from p.m.).

isfy

Dupont

a

its

art.

Other Things to Do Nearby 4

and

I

p.m. to

Circle hosts a myriad of cafes, restaurants, and fast-food joints to sat-

hunger pangs.

Society of the Cincinnati

Museum

at Anderson

Type of Attraction A combination mansion and guided tour)

Location 2118 Massachusetts Avenue,

NW

Revolutionary

House War museum

(Self-

Zone

6:

Nearest Metro Station Dupont

Admission

Dupont Circle/Adams-Morgan

235

Circle

Free

Hours

Tuesday-Saturday, 1—4 p.m. Closed national holidays.

Phone

(202) 785-2040

Web site www.thesocietyofthecincinnati.addr.conn When to Go Anytime Special tles;

Comments

older folks

Children

Overall Appeal by Age

Author's Rating

•• ** Robber-baron decadence. ****

How Much Time

to Allow

Description and

Comments

Grade

Teens

Young

|

adults

in

served

the

billiard

whose members

Row

906 by Larz Anderson, a diplomat,

•••• ****

is

a real sleeper

it's

a reflection of

The two-story ballroom

a stunner;

is

room; and paintings by Gilbert Stuart and

room. Anderson was

a

member

of the Society of the

are descendants of French and American officers

the Revolutionary Army. After

in

Seniors

This mansion along Embassy 1

tapestries line the crystal chandeliered dining in

Over 30

|

hour

I

fabulous turn-of-the-century taste and wealth.

John Trumbull hang

|

\

that few visitors ever see. Built

Cincinnati,

figurines fighting bat-

Group

• school **

Preschool

War

love the Revolutionary

will

marvel at the opulence.

will

his death, his

widow donated

who

the mansion to

the society. Today the building serves the society as both headquarters and museum.

Even first-time visitors to D.C. should make the effort to see

which

is

The

TouringTips second

Dupont

located a block or so from first

mansion,

floor contains displays of Revolutionary War artifacts.

the mansion remains as

floor,

this spectacular

Circle.

it

was

originally furnished, with

On

the

eighteenth-

century paintings, seventeenth-century tapestries from Brussels, and huge chandeliers.

OtherThings to Do Nearby around Dupont tion

(modern

Circle. art),

Woodrow Wilson Textile

Other

Take a walk along Embassy

Row

or browse the shops

sights within walking distance include the Phillips Collec-

Heurich Mansion, the Textile Museum, and the

the Christian

House.

Museum

Type of Attraction A museum Location 2320

S Street,

dedicated to textile arts (Self-guided tour)

NW

Nearest Metro Station Dupont

Admission

Free;

Hours Monday-Saturday, December

Circle

$5 donation suggested 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sunday. 1-5 p.m.

Closed federal holidays and

24.

Phone (202)667-044!

Web site www.textilemuseum.org When to Go Anytime Special ahead ends

if

Comments you have

at 1:30 p.m.,

The museum

is

wheelchair accessible but not barrier free. Call

special needs. Introductory tours are offered

September through May.

Wednesdays and week-

236

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

Overall Appeal by Age

Group

Preschool —

Grade school Author's Rating

Teens |

*

Young

|

Interesting, but small

How Much Time to Allow Description and longer enjoys

|

Over 30

|

Seniors

**i/2

irirVi

***

**

and esoteric.

hour

I

Comments

much

••

adults

commodity

Cloth, a mass-produced

prestige as an art form. But

it's

a different story

world. The museum's collection ranges from countries as diverse as

and China to Mexico, Guatemala, and Peru.

Intricate designs

and

in

in

the West, no

the rest of the

India, Indonesia,

rich colors grace

more

than 14,000 textiles and 1,400 carpets dating from ancient times to the present day.

Because the items can't be exposed to constantly rotated.This

museum

is

light for

much more

long periods of time, the exhibits are

interesting than

ors derived from natural dye processes and elaborate details beautiful. Definitely for distinct tastes,

Touring Tips

In

the

new

but not to be missed

if it

sounds

—the

rich col-

the fabrics are subtly

appeals to you.

second-floor Textile Learning Center, visitors can touch, an opportunity to get a better grip on

feel,

and examine

why

textiles are cultural carriers that reveal a lot

textiles close up.

pleasant garden behind the

it

in

It's

museum. The

gift

about

shop

how

is

people

live.

chock-full of

how and

Don't miss the

books and items

related to textiles and rugs.

OtherThings to Do Nearby Center

is

The Woodrow Wilson House

around the corner on Massachusetts Avenue.

In

is

next doorThe Islamic

the other direction, S Street

crosses Connecticut Avenue, where you can shop and dine to your heart's content.

Woodrow Wilson House Type of Attraction The Location 2340

S Street,

final

home

Nearest Metro Station Dupont

Admission $5

adults;

of the 28th U.S. president (Guided tour)

NW Circle

$4 seniors 62+; $2.50 students; free ages 6 and under

Hours

Tuesday-Sunday, 10 a.m.^ p.m. Closed Mondays and national holidays.

Phone

(202) 387-4062

Web site www.woodrowwilsonhouse.org When to Go To avoid a crowded tour during spring and summer, arrive before noon. Comments

Special

Lots of

stairs, including a steep,

narrow descent down

a back

staircase.

Overall Appeal by Age Preschool

Grade school Author's Rating

Group

•

Teens

|

**

|

Young

••• ***

Interesting and informative.

How Much Time to Allow

|

adults

|

Over 30 •••1/2 Seniors ***i/2

***i/2

1-2 hours

Description and Comments After Woodrow Wilson left office in 1921, he became the only former president to retire in Washington, DC. and he did so in this house. The tour starts with a 25-minute video narrated by Walter Cronkite that puts

—

this

underrated president

cent of the items

in this

in

perspective and fires you up for the tour Ninety-six per-

handsome Georgian

get an accurate picture of aristocratic

life in

Revival

the

1

townhouse are

920s.

On

original,

so visitors

the tour you'll see Wilson's

Zone library (his books,

room,

however, went co the Library of Congress after

movie projector, and

his old

The basement

Touring Tips

inside the pantry,

somewhere

Other Things to Do Nearby

special

The

and

day,

with

and gas-fired stove. Peek

a coal-

is

Museum

Textile

in

another tour that gives

visitors

beaten tourist track.

off the

around the corner on Massachusetts Avenue, and

is

next door. Embassy

Row

is

the other direction, Connecticut

bustles with shops and restaurants.

Zone

7:

Millwood

Upper Northwest

Museum and Gardens

Type of Attraction A mansion housing tours) and formal gardens

on

fabulous art treasures (guided or self-guided

a 25-acre estate (guided and self-guided tours)

Location 4155 Linnean Avenue,

NW

Nearest Metro Station Van Ness/UDC. For Connecticut Avenue past the StarTrek-y

entrance.

Or

a pleasant 20-minute walk,

Intelsat

Upton to Linnean, turn

Street. Follow

complex on the

right,

right,

go south on

then turn

left

on

and walk about a block to the estate

grab a cab.

Admission $12

for the house tour;

for full-time students;

Hours

bed-

stocked with items from the 1920s such as Kellogg's Corn Flakes

still

the feeling they've been

Upton

his death), his

unchanged from Wilson's

virtually

is

wooden icebox and

("wonderfully flavored with malt, sugar and salt").This

Avenue

237

beautiful furnishings.

kitchen

such as an ornate

original items

Upper Northwest

7:

$10 seniors 65+, $5 children ages 6-18, and $7

no children under age 6 permitted.

Tuesday-Saturday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Closed Sunday, Monday, the

month of January

and most federal holidays.

Phone

(202) 686-8500 or (877) hillwood; (202) 686-5807 for reservations

Web site v/ww.hillwoodmuseum.org When to Go Spring the most beautiful is

season to tour the house and gardens. But

these are popular destinations for garden clubs, so you must secure reservations well in

advance. Because of Millwood's

degrees cooler here

Special

in

Comments

wooded

location

in

Rock Creek

Self-guided audio tours are offered

from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. A docent-led tour

is

Preschool

— — Stunning.

Teens

|

Young

|

five

from 9:30 a.m. to noon, and

is

also available ($5).

•• *•*

Over 30 ••••^/z

|

adults

Seniors

|

****i/2

****V2

How Much Time to Allow n't

always

Group

Grade school Author's Rating

it's

offered daily from 12:30 p.m. to 2 p.m.; specify

your preference when making reservations. A children's audio tour

Overall Appeal by Age

Park,

hot and humid summers.

D.C.'s

2 hours.The guided tour

itself

is

over an hour but does-

include the formal gardens and auxiliary buildings.

Description and things

from her

Comments

father:

good

Marjorie Merriweather Post,

remodeled the mansion, and

She was a

girl

from Michigan

taste and General Foods. That,

who bought

filled it

French and Russian decorative

art.

this

in

who

a nutshell,

Rock Creek Park

inherited is

estate

two

the story of in

1

955. She

with exquisite eighteenth- and nineteenth-century

"Fabulous"

is

required to describe the collection of

238

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

on

Imperial Russian objects

Russia

the 1930s

in

—

Mrs. Post

display.

Revolution art at bargain prices. Mrs. Post jewels, dinner plates

Faberge,and chalices

U.S.

ambassador to

bought warehouse-loads of

literally

stuff:

commissioned by Catherine the Great, Easter eggs by Carl and icons. She then had the loot loaded onto her yacht. Sea Cloud

(the largest private ship

on

was married to the

the communists were unloading "decadent," pre-

when

a time

in

home.The very best

the world), for shipment

of the booty

is

display here. The tour provides a glimpse into Mrs. Post's lavish lifestyle.

Touring Tips Advance reservations are required to tour the mansion. Call at least two months in advance for a spring tour, although you may luck into a cancellation by calling a day or two before your planned visit. Children under age 6 are not admitted on the tour Plan your visit so that you have enough time to stroll the gardens. The estate also has a cafe that serves lunch and tea, a

tour A "Behind the Scenes" tour

offered

is

shop, and a greenhouse you can

gift

at 3 p.m., June through

Wednesdays

March

Wednesday of the month; $10 per person). Visitors get a glimpse of it was run when Mrs. Post lived here by touring the fallout shelter, the mas-

(except the

first

Millwood as

sage room, the silver-polishing room, and other places not seen on the regular house

tour Reservations are suggested for the small

OtherThings to Do Nearby like a building

Intelsat,

cafe.

international conglomeration that produces satellites.

prototypes of

its

Ness/UDC Metro

near the Van

no

late twenty-first century.That's

out of the

products hanging from the

station, looks

surprise, since the firm

The lobby

is

an

features models and

For lunch, there are plenty of

ceiling.

restaurants to choose from near the Metro station on Connecticut Avenue.

National

Museum

Type of Attraction A Location

On

of Health and Medicine museum

medical

16th Street and Georgia Avenue,

Hours

Park.

If

Park, Maryland

you have a

car, drive.

Free

Daily, 10

a.m.-5:30 p.m. Closed Christmas Day. Docent-led tours are offered

on the second and fourth Saturdays of the month

Phone

Medical Center, located between

Army

NW, nearTakoma

Nearest Metro Station Takoma

Admission

(Self-guided tour)

the grounds of Walter Reed

at

I

p.m.

(202) 782-2200

Web site http://nmhm.washingtondc.museum When to Go Anytime Connments

Special est

Unless you're a health professional or harbor an intense inter-

the history of medicine, this small but fascinating

in

to get

to. Wait a

few years

Overall Appeal by Age

until

Teens

|

**

Young

|

Author's Rating Some excellent

some

as

it

used to be,

it's still

How Much TInne to Allow Description and epidemic make bottled

human

this

museum

is

simply too

difficult

relocates to the Mall.

Group

Preschool —

Grade school

it

a

|

Over 30

|

Seniors

exhibits, but a bit unsettling.

not a place for the squeamish. I

Comments museum

••V2

adults **!/2

irirVi

**y2

Though not

as grue-

**

hour Excellent exhibits on the

human body and the AIDS

worthwhile destination. Although there are

still

plenty of

organs, skeletons, and graphic illustrations of the effects of disfiguring

Zone

the Civil

War

probably have

will

professionals.

We're

Touring Tips to the

more

appeal to physicians, scientists, and other health

glad to report that the

museum

appearance since our

first visit.

overall

its

has improved the quality of

Finding this place can be tough. By subv/ay,

museum from theTakoma

Dahlia Street and turn

Walter Reed

left.

is

about

six

directly behind the large white hospital building;

museum

Avenue. The

located

is

a brisk 15-minute

walk

Blair

Road. Walk one block to

blocks straight ahead. The

you can walk around

it

museum

on the

left

If

Reed complex through the Dahlia Street gate on Geor-

you're driving, enter the Walter gia

it's

its

Park Metro station. As you exit the station, turn right

and walk under the railroad tracks, then turn right at

is

239

and an extensive microscope collection (including huge electron

microscopes)

exhibits and

Upper Northwest

from the bizarre to education. Exhibits on medicine

diseases, the emphasis has shifted in

7:

in

the south end of Building 54 (behind the large

white hospital building). There's a small parking

OtherThings to Do Nearby

lot

next to the museum.

Nothing recommended due to lackluster location.

National Zoological Park (part of the Smithsonian Institution)

-^—

Type of Attraction

~~^

The^Sfhithsonian's world-class

Location 3001 Connaa;icut Avenue,

zoo

^^ (Seif»gulded tour)

NW

)

Nearest Metro Statiof^s^Woodley Park/National Zoo, Cleveland Park

Admission

Hours 1

Free

April

1

a.m.-6 p.m.;

open

3-October

November

3 I

I

:

grounds are open 6 a.m.-8 p.m. and buildings are open

-April

1

2:

grounds are open 6 a.m.-6 p.m. and buildings are

10 a.m.-4:30 p.m. The Poilinarium and the invertebrate exhibits are closed Tues-

days. The park

Phone

is

closed Christmas Day only.

(202) 673-4800 (24-hour recording); (202) 673-7800

Web site http://nationalzoo.si.edu When to Go Anytime. In the summer, afternoons.

In

avoid going during Washington's sweltering

the spring, avoid visiting between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. weekdays,

many school buses Special

(TDD)

full

Comments

when

of children arrive.

Many

sections of the paths winding through the Zoo's 163 acres

are steep.

Overall Appeal by Age

Group

••••• Grade school ***** Preschool

Author's Rating

A

it all.

Young

|

first-rate

How Much Time to Allow day to see

Teens

|

operation

in

***!/2

|

Over 30

•••Vi

|

Seniors

***!/2

a beautiful setting.

****V2

2 hours just to seethe most popular attractions; a whole

Better yet, see the

Description and

••••

adults

Comments

Zoo

over several

visits.

The National Zoo emphasizes

natural environment,

many animals roaming large enclosures instead of pacing in cages. And it's all found in a lush woodland setting in a section of Rock Creek Park. Two main paths link the many buildings and exhibits: Olmstead Walk, which passes all the animal houses, and the steeper Valley Trail, which includes all the aquatic exhibits. They add up to about two miles of trail. The Zoo's nonlinear layout and lack of sight lines make a map invaluable; pick one up at the Education Building near the entrance for a buck.The most popular

with

exhibits include the elephants, the great apes, the white tiger, the cheetahs, and the giant

pandas,TianTian and Mei Xiang.

240

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

some

But for diversity and a good chance of seeing Small

Mammal House,

and the huge outside bird cages (the condors look the to Washington

a

is

itinerary.

welcome

size ofVolkswragens).

Aside from a wide variety of

wildlife

make

If

your

visit

this beautiful

on view, the wooded

from viewing too much marble downtown.

relief

more active, some exhibits other words, you may have

Plan to visit either early or late in the day. Animals are

Touring Tips

temperatures are cooler

—and crowds

are thinner During busy periods,

are subject to "controlled access" to prevent crowding;

to wait

check out the

activity,

long enough to include forays away from the Mall,

is

park part of your setting

animal

the invertebrate exhibit (kids can look through microscopes),

in line.

If it

rainy,

is

in

exhibits can be found along

most of the indoor

Olmstead

Walk. Feedings and demonstrations occur throughout the day at the cheetah, elephant, seal,

and sea

lion exhibits;

Don't miss three

check at the Education Building for times.

new permanent

exhibits: Pollinarium,ThinkTank,and the

Science Gallery. Pollinarium, a lush garden housed

in

a

1

Amazonia

,250-square-foot greenhouse,

features hundreds of zebra long-wing butterflies that flutter around as visitors get a

hand look

and the process of

at animal pollinators, plants,

beehive gives an up-close glimpse of the

Think Tank, a

1

activities

pollination.

first-

glass-enclosed

of thousands of honeybees.

5,000-square-foot exhibit that opened

answer the question. Can animals think?

A

Scientists

in

1995, attempts to

late

conduct demonstrations on language,

tool use, and social organization. Displays, artifacts, graphics, and videos cover topics

such as problem-solving in

ability,

brain size, and language. Four animal species are featured

the exhibit: orangutans, Sulawesi macaque monkeys, hermit crabs, and leaf-cutter ants.

The Amazonia Science Gallery explores the forest; a biodiversity

demonstration

scope and with displays of

lab

living beetles,

is

Amazon

rain

frog eggs, tadpoles, and boas.The two-meter-

diameter "Geosphere" globe uses projectors,

show

biological diversity of the

equipped with a working electron micro-

satellite

imagery, and

computer data to

seasonal changes, weather and land cultivation patterns, population distribution,

and other factors that affect

life

on

Other Things to Do Nearby your energy

level will

If

earth.

you've done the

be too depleted for much

Zoo

else:

justice,

Go

your feet

spots abound three blocks north on Connecticut Avenue; from there to the Cleveland Park Metro. But

if

will

hurt and

back to your room. Lunch it's

a short walk

you've got feet of steel, take the half-hour hike to

the National Cathedral.

Washington National Cathedral Type of Attraction The

sixth-largest cathedral

in

the world (Guided and self-guided

tours)

Location Massachusetts and Wisconsin Avenues,

Nearest Metro Station The Woodley hour w^lk; drive or take a

Admission

Hours

Zoo

statidn

is

about a

half-

^

cab.

Ffeer&uggested donations are $3 adultsr$2"seniors, and $

1

children.

Monday-Friday: 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m., tours 10-1 1:30 a.m. and 12:45-3:15 p.m.;

Saturday:

10

a.m.-4:30 p.m., tours

a.m.-6:30 p.m., tours 12:45-2:30 p.m.

Phone

NW

Park/National

10-11:30 a.m. and

Summer

12:45-3:15 p.m.; Sunday 8

hours: open weekdays until 8 p.m.

(202) 537-6200 or (202) 537-5596 for guided tour information; (202) 364-

6616 for touring

conflict info

or special events

Web site www.cathedral.org/cathedral When to Go Anytime

1

Zone Comments

Special

Teens •••'/a

|

Author's Rating

How Much Time

to

**

Young

|

AMow

If

massivVQothic

high altar; the ceiling

Seniors*****

|

hour

I

Description and Corrunents visit this

adults

•••••

Over 30

|

***** ***** A Gothic ma^JTCrpiece.

v^hen you

24

Take the optional 30- to 45-minute, docent-led tour.

•

Preschool

Northeast

Age Group

Overall Appeal by

Grade school

8:

you're been to Europe, you'll experience deja vu

catheidral.

It's

a tenth of a mile

from the nave to the

100 feet tiighrDon't miss the Bishop's Garden, modeled on a

is

medieval walled garden, or the Pilgrim Observation Gallery and a view of Washington

from the highest vantage point around

huge cathedral, but

this

in

the

just

city.

Small children

about anyone else

may not enjoy being dragged

will

enjoy

its

magnificent archi-

tecture and stone carvings.

Touring Tips

Docent-led tours are offered on weekdays. While the tours are free,

Remember

suggested donations are $3 for adults and $1 for children.

fortable shoes. Try to catch the free organ demonstration given

3:15 p.m. Carillon recitals are given on Sundays; times vary so visit

the grave of

Cathedral

through

isn't

safe,

Woodrow

call

Wilson, the only president buried

to

wear com-

Wednesdays

1:15 to

ahead. You can also in

Washington. The

well served by public transportation, but walking there takes

pleasant neighborhoods that are

half-hour stroll up Cathedral

home

to Washington's

elite: It's

you

about a

Avenue from the Woodley Park/National Zoo Metro.

OtherThings to Do Nearby

The National Zoo

National Cathedral, or take a cab. For lunch, walk

is

about

a half-hour

walk from the

two blocks north on Wisconsin

Avenue to Cleveland Park and choose among Thai, Chinese, Mexican, and

pizza restau-

rants.The best deals are at G.C. Murphy's, which features gyros, pita sandwiches, minipizzas, subs, pastries,

Zone

8:

and

Italian coffee.

Most items on the menu are under

$5.

Northeast

Basilica of the National Shrine of the /mmacu/ote Conception

Type of Attraction The religious structure in the

largest Catholic church in the U.S.

and the seventh-largest

world (Guided and self-guided tours)

Location 4th Street and Michigan Avenue, NE, on the campus of the Catholic Univerof America

sity

Nearest Metro Station Brookland/Catholic

Admission

University

Free

Hours November -March 3 I, daily 7 a.m.-6 p.m.; until 7 p.m. the rest of the year. a.m. and 1-3 p.m.; Sunday, Guided tours are conducted Monday-Saturday, 9-1 I

I

1:30-4 p.m.

Phone

(202) 526-8300

Web site www.nationalshrine.com When to Go Anytime Special

Comments

It's

a

huge cathedral and

it

requires a lot of walking

242

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

Overall Appeal by Age

Group

•

Preschool

•

Teens

*

Young

|

Sterile

How Much Time

to Allow

Description and

Comments A

its

and cold.

adults

hour

I

dome

huge, blue-and-gold onion

interiorYet the architecture

is

lean and stark,

and stained-glass windows look cartoonish. inspiring National Cathedral across

lends Byzantine

town. Sure

and many of the figures not

It's

in

big,

is

map

chapels. Instead, grab a Hall,

which

at the information

is

in

the mosaics

the same league with the awe-

though.

Skip the guided tour, which stops

enter Memorial

Seniors *i/2

|

massive cathedral, as does the wealth of colorful mosaics throughout

this

Touring Tips

*

*

Author's Rating

overtones to

•

Over 30 |

|

Grade school

in

every one of the dozens of

desk on the ground (crypt)

go up the

lined with chapels.Then

level

and

stairs (or elevator)

to

the Upper Church.

Other Things to Do Nearby

The Franciscan Monastery

is

and walk about four blocks. The Pope John Paul

museum open

to

all

faiths,

walk

a brisk, 20-minute

away: Continue past the Metro station on Michigan Avenue to Quincy Street, turn

right,

Cultural Center, an interactive

II

nearby. Call (202) 635-5400 for hours and directions.

is

free shuttle service to the center operates

from the Brookland/CUA Metro

weekends.The

on the ground

Basilica has a small cafeteria

level; a

better bet

station is

A

on

the Pizza

Hut on Michigan Avenue.

Franciscan Monastery and Gardens Type of Attraction A working monastery (Guided Location 1400 Quincy

Street,

Nearest Metro Station Brookland/Catholic left,

walk up to Michigan Avenue, turn

gan Avenue to Quincy Street, turn

Admission

left,

right,

University.

From the

station exit, turn

and walk over the bridge. Continue on Michi-

and walk four blocks.

Free

Hours Guided daily

tour)

NE

tours on the hour Monday-Saturday, 9 a.m.—4 p.m. (except at noon

and 9 a.m. on Tuesday); Sunday, 1-4 p.m.

Phone

(202) 526-6800

Web When to Go

site www.pressroom.com/~franciscan

Special

Anytime

Comments

low, dark passageways.

The tour

involves negotiating

A

number

limited

many narrow, steep

stairs

and

of wheelchairs are available for touring the

church and upper grounds.

Overall Appeal by Age Preschool

Group

—

Teens |

Grade school **'/2 Author's Rating

•• **

adults

Beautiful architecture, peaceful

How Much Time to Allow Description and

Young

|

I

grounds

Over 30

|

Seniors

|

•• **

—and kind of spooky. **

hour

Comments

Built

around

1900 and

recently

restored, this

monastery has everything you'd expect:

quiet, contemplative formal gardens; a beautiful

church modeled after the Hagia Sophia

in Istanbul;

shrines and chapels found

in

and grounds dotted with replicas of

the Holy Land. What's really unusual

is

the sanitized crypt

Zone beneath the church, which

more Hollywood

is

run into Victor Mature wearing a toga.) is

positively

—

if

It's

—

ghoulish.

inauthentically

8:

Northeast

243

than Holy Land. (You almost expect to

catacombs under

a replica of the

Rome

As you pass open (but phony) grave

and

sites in

the walls, the guide narrates hair-raising stories of Christian martyrs eaten by

lions,

speared, stoned to death, beheaded, and burned at the stake. Shudder.

Touring Tips

If

you're driving, parking

from the monastery on tiful

1

4th Street.

gardens alone are worth the

—

let's

Avenue. For lunch,

The

catch our breath a Pizza

Hut

is

easy.

Two

parking lots are located across

you're visiting Washington

in

the spring, the beau-

trip.

OtherThings to Do Nearby Conception

If

Basilica of the National Shrine of the

—

just

is

Immaculate

past the Metro station on

Michigan

conveniently located near the Metro.

is

U.S, National Arboretum Type of Attraction A 444-acre

collection of trees, flowers, and herbs (Self-guided

tour)

Location 3501 NewYork Avenue, NE

How to Get There

NewYork Avenue from downtown and

Drive. Take

enter on the

service road on the right just past Bladensburg Road.

Admission

Free

Hours

Daily,

the

shop

gift

8 a.m.-5 p.m. The information center is

open weekdays,

National Bonsai and Penjing

mas

is

open weekdays, 8 a.m.-4:30

10 a.m.-3:30 p.m. and

Museum

is

open

10 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Closed

daily,

p.m.;

weekends, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. The

on Christ-

Day.

Phone

(202) 245-2726

Web site www.usna.usda.gov When to Go In the spring, fields lection

is

a treat

all

information on what's

Special

of azaleas are

in

bloom. The world-class bonsai col-

year Late July and August feature blooming aquatic plants. For more in

Comments

bloom

visit

v^ww.ars-grin.gov/na/.

The arboretum

mobbed

is

in

the spring; the rest of the year

is

usually tranquil.

Overall Appeal by Age

Grade school Author's Rating

Group

•

Preschool

Teens irVi

Over 30 ••'/i

|

|

irVi

Young

\

adults

**

Interesting and beautiful; hard to get to.

How Much Time to Allow

I

hour to

Seniors

|

***

**'/2

half a day.

Comments

With nine miles of roads and more than three miles Arboretum offers visitors an oasis of quiet and beauty for a drive or a stroll. Even people without green thumbs will marvel at the bonsai collection, whose dwarf trees are more like sculptures than plants. One specimen, a Description and

of walking paths, the U.S. National

Japanese white pine,

is

350 years

old. Folks

with limited time

who

enthusiasts, however, shouldn't spend their valuable touring hours

TouringTips of the year, safe,

it's

Flowering

dogwood and mountain

a fine place to

go for

a long

laurel

bloom

on

aren't gardening a

visit.

well into

May.The rest

walk.The surrounding neighborhoods aren't

so either drive or take a cab.

OtherThings to Do Nearby utes away by car.

The Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens

are only a few min-

244

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

Zone

Southeast

9:

Anacostia

Museum

Smithsonian museum)

(a

Type of Attraction A museum

focusing on African-American history and culture

(Self-guided tour)

Anacostia

Location 1901 Fort

Place. SE.

How to GetThere

For specific information on where to board the buses and for the

schedule, stop at any

To Drive From where

Street. SE.

museum

the Mall, it is

information desk on the Mall or

(third traffic signal)

Road becomes

and turn righL Cross the

Street. SE,

signs to Martin Luther King

Road

Avenue

Jr.

and turn

lefL

about

Erie Street. In

Go

up the

hill

Daily. 10

Phone

(202) 287-3306

to

1

Ith Street Bridge

MLK Avenue

7th Street, SE,

Street

and

fol-

to Morris

where Morris

becomes Fort

of Southeast Washington

Place; the

is

unsafe for pedes-

at

the Castle on the

transf>ortation.

a.m.-5 p.m. Closed Christmas

Day

Web site http://anacostiasi.edu When to Go Anytime. But either call first or pick up a Mall to find out

exhibits:

(202) 287-3382.

Free

Hours

whats on view before making the

Comments

Special

I

Follow

(left lanes).

five blocks. Erie

museum is on the right. Because this part trians, we don't recommend taking public Admission

cali

take Independence Avenue east past the Capitol to Second

interseaed by Pennsylvania Avenue. Bear right onto Pennsylvania

Avenue and go to Nth low

in

This "neighborhood"

between shows, there

OveraJI Appeal by change throughout the

it's

museum

features

often very litde to see. so

is

Age Group year,

brochure

trip.

Since the

museum

not really possible to rate

temporary, special

call first.

features spedal exhibitions that

this

Smithsonian

facility's

appeal by

age group.

Author's Rating Again, temporary

How MuchTime

to Allow

Description and

Comments

Anacostia

Museum

I

exhibitions

make

a rating impossible.

hour Located on the high ground of old Fort Stanton, the

features changing exhibits on black culture and history and the

achievements of African Americans. Unfortunately for out-of-town

visitors,

it's

in

a

location that's difficult to reach.

Touring Tips either

call

the

To save yourself the frustration of

museum

first

or pick up a

Other Things to Do Nearby drive, but tia

is

you should

call in

a high-crime area.

advise visitors to

visit

It's

arriving

flyer at the CastJe

between major shows,

on the

Mall.

Frederick Douglass National Historic Site

is

a

short

advance to make reservations for the house tour Anacos-

okay to drive through during

on foot or

daylight,

but

it's

not an area

we

at nighL

Frederick Douglass National Historic Site Type of Attraction Cedar

Hill,

the preserved Victorian

home

of abolitionist, states-

man, and orator Frederick Douglass (Guided tour by reservation only)

Location 1411

How

to

W StreeL

GetThere

SE. in

Anacostia

Drive: Anacostia

is

unsafe for pedestrians day or nighL

From

the

Zone

9:

Southeast

Mali take Indepefvdence Avenoe east past the U-S. Caprto: to Seconc Street. It is

I

245

SL where

intersected by Pennsy+vania Avef>i>e. Bear aght cxito Pen nsy+vanta Avenue and go to

cum

StreeL Sf, and

Ith

Luther King

Jr.

Avenoe to

righL Cross the

W

Street.

SETjrr

parking lot on the nght.

"e

?-^-r

^"or^e'- cr:c'-

:.

—

e-

Ith Street

I

!eft

s

Rndge and go south on Haron

and go four Wocks to the

^t.'— cc

e

^/^ :-

Admission SI

Hours

C:":e

9

nanksgpnng

Phone

:::

:-

-It-:--.

.•..•.-.•.

SpeciaJ

ortheWSwh.duh5and$9

;•-

1-

:-„~,2.s

-5

:;."-.

Tours

D2/S.

reservacc

-ziiz- -

--•-..-=

-c-

/.

Comments 3c

"-s.^

i-'c -ese-.-a-

-c: tixe t'e '^evc :c -^'ac;

-SoJe;

byAge Group

Overall A.ppea.1

I

Author's Rating

--'c

—

i-...e

"

How Much Time

to Allow

Des.cription a.nd

Comments

in th

e.com, or stop at

- -I r

:e- :e'sc-

E.e-. :i.

Web site When to Go

center

c~ers a three-hour : :

5

visrtor

Seniors

•••^

***li

s

phjtL" rights

Touring Tips

-C»

i.

=_

Other Things to Do Nearby

Kenilworth Park and Aquatic Gardens Type

of Attraction

Location Arboret:-'-

90C

A.-

=

- -i-_c' :cs--.i

I'

z"

--€ \i'o-;al

246

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

How to GetThere New York Avenue.

Drive.

Go

south on Kenilworth Avenue from

Avenue and follow

Exit at Eastern

its

intersection with

signs to the parking lot off

Ana-

costia Avenue.

Admission

Hours

Free 7

Daily,

a.m.^

New Year's

p.m. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and

Days.

Phone (202)426-6905

Web site www.nps.gov/kepa When to Go June and July to see tropical plants and lotus.

Year-round

it's

water

the third Saturday

plants;

and

July

August

in July a water-lily festival is held.

a great place for bird -watching.

Comments

Special

hardy

see

to

On

The gardens are

located

in

a dangerous neighborhood. Don't

take public transportation.

Overall Appeal by Age Preschool

Grade school

Group

•

Teens

|

**

Young

|

Author's Rating Unique.

•• ***

adults

I

Comments

hyacinth, lotus, and

bamboo, the gardens teem with

Come

It's

In

addition to pools

••• ***

an amazing place to

filled

with water

lilies,

water

wildlife

such as opossum, raccoon,

on

summer morning.

visit

a clear

the morning, before the heat closes up the flowers. Don't

in

take public transportation; the surrounding neighborhood

Other Things to Do Nearby by

Seniors

hour

Description and

Touring Tips

Over 30

|

***

How Much Time to Allov/

waterfowl, and muskrats.

|

unsafe. Drive or

is

The National Arboretum

is

go by cab.

only a few minutes away

car.

Washington Navy Yard Type of Attraction Three tours by reservation only;

Location 9th and

M

military

museums and

a U.S.

Navy destroyer

(Self-guided

(202) 433-6897)

call

Streets, SE,

on the waterfront

Nearest Metro Station Eastern Market. Because this is an unsafe neighborhood any time of day, we recommend that visitors either drive (parking is available inside the gate) or take a cab.

Admission

Free; reservations required for nonmilitary personnel

Monday-Friday, 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Closed weekends and

Hours

Phone Navy Museum,

(202) 433-4882; Marine

3534 (closed Tuesdays); Navy Art (open

until 5 p.m. in

the

Corps

Historical

Gallery, (202) 433-3815;

summer and

until

4 p.m.

in

federal holidays.

all

USS

Museum, (202) 433-

Barry, (202)

the winter; closed

433-3377

Monday and

Tuesday)

Web site wv/w.ndw.navy.mil/NavyYard/History When to Go Anytime. But unless you have military

ID,

advance reservations are

required.

Special

Comments A

Overall Appeal by Age Preschool

nice contrast to the look-but-don't-touch Mall

museums.

Group

•

Grade school ***'/2

|

|

Teens

Young

••• **

adults

|

|

•• ***

Over 30 Seniors

Zone

How Much Time

to Allow 2 hours

Description and

Comments

ships,

undersea vehicles

Exhibits

Alvin

and

that kids (and wiry adults) can climb

the Navy

in

Trieste,

in,

is

a prerequisite for

side trip that

information

many

visit

Museum

decommissioned

hands-on, featuring

less

is

Corps mementos. The Navy Art Gallery artists.

A

is

first-time visitors

make. But kids

will

love

it.

museums

it's

not a

For current exhibition

www.history.navy.mil and click on "The Navy Museum."

—jumping

Navy Yard

off at the Metro's

station

too bad

It's

are so far off the beaten path, because there's a lot here to see and do.

OtherThings to Do Nearby

Zone

the mili-

in

and walking ten scary blocks to the Navy Yard entrance; drive or take a cab. these

museum

a small

strong interest

making the trek to the Washington Navy Yard, and

Don't make our mistake

TouringTips

include 14-foot-long

and, tied up at the dock, a

with paintings of naval actions painted by combat tary

Museum

working sub periscopes, a space capsule

destroyer to tour. The Marine Corps Historical exhibit cases and Marine

247

fun for kids; informative for adults. **'/2

Author's Rating Hands-on

model

Maryland Suburbs

10:

Nothing recommended.

Maryland Suburbs

10:

NASAIGoddard Space

Flight Visitor

Center (Zone lOD)

Type of Attraction NASA's 1,100-acre, campuslike facility in suburban including a small museum and other buildings (Self-guided and guided tours)

Maryland,

Location Greenbelt, Maryland

How to GetThere

Drive.

From downtown Washington, drive out

which becomes the Baltimore-Washington Parkway

(1-295). Take the

New York Avenue,

MD

193 East exit,

Beltway Drive about two miles past the Goddard Space

just past the Capital

Center's main entrance to Soil Conservation Road and turn

left.

Flight

Follow signs to the

visitor center.

Admission

Hours

Free

Tuesday-Friday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m.; Saturday-Sunday,

Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day, and

1

2-4

p.m..

Closed Mondays,

New Year's Day

Phone (301)286-9041

Web site www.gsfc.nasa.gov When to Go Anytime Overall Appeal by Age

Group

•

Preschool

Teens

|

***

Grade school

Young

|

••• ***

adults

Author's Rating Informative but not convenient

How Much Time to Allow Description and

1

Comments

for

|

Over 30

|

Seniors

most

visitors.

think of

it

**V'2

hour for the tours; 2 hours for the Sunday bus tours

The

small

museum

inside the visitor center

as a mini-National Air

is

loaded

and

real

and Space Museum. Outside, some

real

with space hardware, including a space capsule kids can play satellites;

••• ***

in,

space

suits,

rockets used to put the hardware into outer space are on display. While most folks get their

fill

Greenbelt

and then some of spacecraft at the

facility

TouringTips

is

museum on

the Mall, a

visit

will

to NASA's

the icing on the cake for hard-core space cadets.

The

small

gift

shop

offers interesting

NASA-related items such

as post-

248

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

cards,

35mm

color

at 10 a.m., noon,

slides, posters,

and 2 p.m.

On

and publications. One-hour tours are given weekdays

the

first

and third Saturdays of the month, model rocket

launches are held on center grounds. Call the curator for details, (301) 286-9041.

Other Things to Do Nearby

Drive through the adjacent Agricultural Research

where the U.S. Department of Agriculture studies farm it's a rural oasis in the heart of animals and plants. The roads are narrow and quiet Maryland's suburban sprawl. The National Wildlife Visitor Center off nearby Powder Center, a collection of farms

—

Mill

Road features nature

displays

Museum

National Cryptologic Type of Attraction A

small

and hiking paths.

museum

(north of Zone lOD)

offering a glimpse into the secret

world of spies,

national defense, and ciphers (Self-guided tour)

Location The National Security Agency, on the grounds of Fort George G. Meade, about 30 minutes north of Washington and east of Laurel, Maryland (Route 32 and the Baltimore-Washington Parkway)

Admission

Free

Hours Weekdays,

9 a.m.-4 p.m. and the

first

and third Saturdays of each month, 10

a.m.-2 p.m. Closed federal holidays and Sundays.

Phone (301)688-5849

Web site www.nsa.gov/museum/index.cfm When to Go Anytime Comments A

Special

Washington

very small

museum

that will only appeal to a

narrow

slice

of

visitors.

Overall Appeal by Age

Group

Preschool —

Teens •V2

|

*

Grade school

Young

|

Over 30

|

adults irVi

Seniors

\

irVi

**

Author's Rating Gee, a real World War German Enigma ciphering machine.Yet this tiny museum's greatest appeal may be its very existence:The National Security Agency (NSA) is the nation's largest spy organization and its most secretive. * II

—

How Much Time to Allow Description and headquarters

in

I

Comments

hour Tourists are barred from Central Intelligence

Langley, across the river

from Washington

in

Agency

suburban Virginia. Yet

not lost for visitors lusting for a peek into the world of cloaks and daggers.The hush-hush National Security Agency operates ciphers, and spies All Civil

in

a

the displays are

looks

(it

like

static;

II,

they include items such as rare books dating from paraphernalia, and the notorious Enigma, a

House, the

U.S. ambassador's residence in

uncovered

in

952.)

The new

high-tech

computer hackers. Outside, you get from Route

32.

NSA

1

526,

cipher

II.

in

a small theater

in

the museum.)

Don't miss the "bugged" Great Seal of the U.S. that hung

Touring Tips

1

German

Underwood on steroids) whose code was "broken" by World War (Spies, a film on code breaking during World

the story continuously on a TV

tells

dedicated to codes,

an ancient

the Poles and British during

War

museum

former motel overlooking the Baltimore- Washington Parkway.

War signal flags, KGB spy

machine

this tiny

all is

ultra-

is

called

Moscow. (The microphone-equipped

room

in

Spaso

seal

was

features spy devices used to guard against

a glimpse of the huge

"The Puzzle Palace" for

its

NSA

headquarters complex

secretiveness and worldwide

electronic eavesdropping capability.The agency's budget, by the way,

is

a secret.

Zone Other Things to Do Nearby Road

249

South on the Baltimore-Washington Parkway ar^ the

NASA/Goddard Space

National Wildlife Visitor Center and the Mill

Maryland Suburbs

10:

Flight

Center (Powder

exit).

National Wildlife Visitor Center (Zone lOD) Type of Attraction A museum 1

featuring wildlife research exhibits located

in

a

3,000-acre national wildlife refuge about 30 minutes north of Washington (Self-guided

tour)

Location Off Powder

Mill

Road, 2 miles east of the Baltimore-Washington Parkway,

south of Laurel, Maryland

Admission

Hours

Free

Daily, 10

a.m.-5:30 p.m. Closed Christmas Day.

Phone (301)497-5760

Web site http://patuxent.fws.gov/vcdefeult.html When to Go Anytime. Weekends are busier than weekdays. Special large

Comments

You'll

need a car to get here.

groups of schoolchildren on

field trips.

And

Call

there's

ahead

if

you'd rather avoid

no restaurant or snack bar on

the premises.

Overall Appeal by Age

Group

•••• Grade school **** Preschool

Author's Rating

Teens

|

Young

|

Static exhibits

Department of the ing

Interior

is

This

Mall, children are fascinated

weary from

^focus-

topics. While the static displays

won't

traipsing through Smithsonian edifices

wildlife habitats,

pond and

wildlife

natural wildlife habitat.

by taking a

wolves, whooping cranes, and

wildlife research.

"viewing pod" equipped with spotting scopes and binoculars

youngsters (and adults) observe

wildlife

by the U.S.

—dioramas, mostly—

other endangered species demonstrate the value of

A

the heart

by this place. Large dioramas on pollution, overpop-

and ocean degradation,

Touring Tips

museum operated

large, airy

with attractive exhibits

filled

accelerate the pulse rates of adults

ulation, forest

in

**V^

on a wide range of wildlife and environmental

on the

icirVi

Seniors icicVi

\

1-2 hours

Comments

Description and

Over 30

|

and stuffed animals, but a tranquil setting

of the hectic Washington-Baltimore corridor

How Much Time to Allow

•••

adults irirVi

stroll

on paved

lets

through a picture window overlooking acres of

it's

a nice day, enjoy the sights and sounds of real

trails

through woods and around ponds populated by

If

geese, ducks, and other animals that find refuge on the refuge. Thirty-minute narrated

tram rides with daily

a wildlife interpreter are offered

and $1 for children.

movie

On weekends

documentary

is

in

the spring and

fall

and

$3 for adults and $2 for seniors

wildlife films are

shown

in

the center's

theater.

Other Things to Do Nearby belt,

on weekends

from the end of June through August.The cost

Maryland,

is

The NASA/Goddard Space

only a few miles away; follow signs posted on

Flight

Center

Powder

Mill

in

Green-

Road near

the Baltimore-Washington Parkway. Folks looking for additional wildlife

outdoor enjoyment and the opportunity to see more

can drive a few miles north to the North Tract of the Patuxent Research

Refuge; take the Baltimore-Washington Parkway north

two

exits to

Route 198

east.

250 drive

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

one

mile,

and turn right onto Bald Eagle Drive to the Visitor Contact Station. The

8,100-acre tract features forest, wetlands, a wildlife viewing area (with an observation

tower), and eight miles of paved roads for car touring and bicycling. There are another ten miles of graded gravel roads for hiking, mountain biking, and horseback riding. For

more information, call (410) 674-3304. The National Cryptologic Museum

is

located next to the huge National Security

Agency complex near the intersection of the Baltimore-Washington Parkway and Route 32; drive north on the parkway a few miles and follow the signs. For a large selection of fast-food options, take the parkway north a few miles to Route 97. 1

Zone

1 1

Virginia Suburbs

:

Mount Vernon

and Gardens (south of Zone

Estate

IC)

I

eighteenth-century Virginia plantation on

Type of Attraction George Washington's the Potomac River (Self-guided tour) 16 miles south of Washington

Location

Get There To

Hovy^ to ginia,

bear

right,

drive

from Washington, cross the 14th Street Bridge into Vir-

and get on the George Washington Memorial Parkway south. Continue

past National Airport into Alexandria,

Continue

straight; Washington Street

where the parkway becomes Washington Street. ])ecomes the Mount Vernon Memorial Parkway,

which ends at Mount Vernon.

s,^

Tourmobile offers four-hour, narrated bu^fours to Mount Vernon

October Departures are

at 10 a.m., 12 p.m., a'^d

daily.April

through

2 p.m. Tickets are $25 for adults and

$12 for children ages 3 to I. The price include!, admission to MountVernon. Call Tourmobile at (202) 554-5100 for more information. «Gray Line offers four-hour coach trips to MountVernon and Old Town Alexandria that cfepart daily at 8:30 a.m. from Union StaI

No tours are

tion.

$28 for 1

adults and

995 or

scheduled on NewYear's,Thaj^ksgiving,and Christmas Days. Fares are

$14

for children. For mor§4nformation,

call

Gray Line

at (202) 289-

wvwv.grayline.com.

visit

Admission

Estate and-G^rdgffsr$

adults,

II

$10.50 seniors 62+, $5 children ages

6-11, free ages 5 and under Gristmill: adults and seniors, $2 additional to Estate and

Gardens

tickets

or $4 purchased alone; children (6-1

I),

$1.50 additional or $2 pur-

chased alone; free ages 5 and under

Hours

All are

open every day of the

Christmas Day. Estate and Gar-

year, including

dens: April-August, 8 a.m.-5 p.m.; November-February, 9 ber,

a.m.^

p.m.;

March, Septem-

and October, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Gristmill: 10 a.m.-5 p.m.

Phone

(703) 780-2000

www.mountvernon.org Web When to Go Generally before site

1

a.m., especially in

hot weather But sometimes tour

and school buses arrive before the gates open, creating a the mansion.

When

around

longer hours are

Special

opens

Come

3 p.m.

in effect,

making

it

a

to buy tickets and tour

—and the

lines.

you must clear the grounds by 5:30 p.m.

Connments MountVernon

at 8 a.m.,

line

and you're sure to avoid the buses

is

probably the only major

prime place to

hit early in

DC.

attraction that

—

you have a car

hot weather

if

to get you there. During Christmas, the decorated mansion's seldom-seen third floor

open to the

public.

Overall Appeal by Age Preschool

Grade school

Group

•• ****

|

|

Teens

Young

•••

adults

****l/2

|

Over 30

|

Seniors

••••• *****

is

Zone

:Virginia

I

Suburbs

25

^****

Author's Rating Nofllo be missed.

How Much Time

I

to Allow 2 hours

Description and Comirients

Folks «^n a quick trip to Washington won't have time

Mount Vernon, but everypne,jefse should. The stunning view from the mansion across the Potomac River is pretty much the same as it was in Washington's day. Unlike most historic sites in D.C.. MountVernon gives visitors a real sense of how eighteenthto

visit

century rural

life

worked, from the

first

president's foot-operated fan chair (for keeping

he read) to the rustic kitchen and outbuildings. Historic interpreters

at bay while

flies

are stationed throughout the estate and mansion to answer questions and give visitors

an overview of the property and Washington's

MountVernon

more

is

den tours leave

at

Mount Vernon"

is

I

a

I

a.m..

I

and

p.m.,

3 p.m., April

through October "Slave

April through October. There's

daily.

no addi-

charge for either tour

tional

Mount Vernon

has

opened

several

new

attractions

on the 30-acre plantation to

help diffuse huge crowds that throng the mansion. The newest

farm

Life at

30-minute walking tour to slave quarters and workplaces that

noon. 2 p.m., and 4 p.m.

starts at 10 a.m.,

life.

than just a big house. Special 30-minute landscape and gar-

site

where

visitors can

is

a four-acre colonial

view costumed interpreters using eighteenth-century farm

methods and tools. Hands-on activities are available March through November, and wagon rides are offered on Fridays. Saturdays, and Sundays. During the summer months, a "Hands-On History" area lets children handle eighteenth-century objects, play games such as rolling hoops, and learn about early

American

The

life;

hours are 10 a.m. to

Web

estate's

site,

I

Day through Labor Day.

p.m. daily from Memorial

www.mountvernon.org.

offers a historical

primer for your

visit.

Monday

Half-hour narrated cruises on the Potomac are offered May through August,

through Sunday; $8 adults and $4 children.

MountVernon

TouringTIps

summer months

spring and

is

very popular,

—sometimes

and tourists

tourist season. Monday. Friday, and Sunday mornings before

periods.

If

you want to avoid

big

crowds, go around

grounds by 5:30 p.m. When crowds are small guided tours of the mansion

in

office,

the

in

I

3 p.m..

I

a.m. are the least busy

but you must leave the

the winter, visitors are frequently given

MountVernon

offers a snack bar.

two

shops, a

gift

museum on entrance. Visit Old Town

and a sit-down restaurant. Rest rooms can be found near the

the grounds or between the

gift

shop and snack bar near the

Alexandria on your way to or from Mount Vernon. To stop at Gadsby's Tavern priate,

in

groups of 20 to 30 people.

Other Things to Do Nearby post

up by the busload

pull

before the grounds open. During the high

because

that's

what George Washington used to

Old Town Alexandria (Zone Type of Attraction A

I

is

appro-

do.

IC)

restored colonial port

town on the Potomac

River, featuring

eighteenth-century buildings on cobblestone streets, trendy shops, bars and restaurants, parks,

Location

and

In

a

huge art center (Guided and self-guided tours)

suburban Vifgima. 8 mile\ south of Washington

Nearest Metro Station King

Admission Some

histoVk:

Street

\

houses charafe $4 for admission. Admission to the Torpedo

Factory Art Center, the Lyc'&mn.andtjje George Washington Masonic National rial is I

free. Tickets that get

you

into three historic sites for

Memo-

$9 ($6 for children ages

1-17) are sold at Ramsay House, the main visitor center on King Street.

Hours

Historic houses, shops, and the

and remain open through the afternoon.

Torpedo Factory Art Center open by

10 a.m.

252

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

Phone

For more information on Old Town, call the Alexandria Convention and Visitors

Association at (800) 388-9

1

1

9 or (703) 838-4200. Press 4 for a recording of special

events that's updated regularly.

When to Go

Anytime

Comments

Special

scenic spot for a brown-bag lunch are the picnic

The most

on the Potomac River

tables located at the foot of First Street,

Group

Overall Appeal by Age Preschool

Grade school

•• ***

Author's Rating

A

Teens

|

satisfying contrast to

How Much Time to^Allow

•••

Young aduks

|

Half a day.

|

*.T(!r**i/2

Robert

E.

Comments

the second

half,

rival

sray for dinner;

Old Town

./

Alexandria claims both George Washington and

Lee as native sons, so history buffs have a

period revival houses that

****i/2

Seniors

awesome D.C. W^**

If it's

Alexandria has a great^election of restaurants.

Description and

Over 30 ••••1/2

|

those

lot

to see. Topping the

list

Georgetown, another old port up the

in

are

river;

Gadsby's Tavern (open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., April through Sep-

tember, and

p.m. to 5 p.m.

I

on Sunday; guided tours

at quarter of

and quarter past the

hour); Christ Church; and the Lee-Fendall House. This hip, revitalized city

Potomac

is

crammed with

(art, jewelry, children's

on the

exotic restaurants (Thai, Indian, Lebanese, Greek) and shops

books, antiques, Persian carpets). And, unlike those

town, the eating and drinking establishments

in

Old Town

George-

in

aren't overrun by suburban

teenagers on weekends.

Touring Tips

As you

for a quick trip right

Metro

exit the King Street

onto King Street for a pleasant 15-minute

itor center

is

at the

station, either

board a

King Street to Old Town (85 cents), or walk to your

down

stroll

Lyceum, where two exhibition

DASH

left

toward the riverThe closest

galleries

and a

museum

bus

and turn vis-

of the area's

history are featured; from King Street, turn right onto Washington Street and walk a

block.There's also a small niture,

and

House,

built in

Civil

War

museum

featuring prints, documents, photographs,

memorabilia. Farther

1724 and

now Alexandria's

down

official visitor

to 5 p.m., exceptThanksgiving, Christmas, and

good

starting point for a walking tour of

Center tors,

dios housed

in

artists

up a pass that But parking

it

If

open

daily

Days. Ramsay

Ramsay

from 9 a.m.

House makes

1

a

50 painters, printmakers, sculpartists at

work

in

their stu-

you drive to Alexandria, park your car

a nickel or a dime, and

you park free for 24 hours

city limits is

more than

the former munitions factory.

lets

New Year's

and craftspeople. Visitors can watch

a two-hour metered space, feed

Alexandria

center,

silver, fur-

left is

Old Town Alexandria.The Torpedo Factory Art

King Street features

at the foot of

and other

King Street on the

in

go to a

visitor

in

center to pick

any two-hour metered zone inside

(renewable once); you'll need your vehicle's license plate number

scarce and the King Street Metro

OtherThings to Do Nearby

About

a mile

is

conveniently located.

west of the center of Alexandria

is

the

George Washington National Masonic Memorial. A free tour features a view from the 333-foot tower, Washington memorabilia, a 370-year-old Persian rug valued at $1 million, and more information about Masonry than you probably want.The tours are given Monday through Saturday on the half-hour in the mornings and on the hour in the afternoons; the Memorial is open daily, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Mount Vernon, George Washington's plantation

on the Potomac,

is

eight miles

downriver

Part Eight

Dining and Restaurants

Experiencing Washington Cuisine

The New Washington Cookery In the

last

1

5 years,

and even more rapidly over the past

Wash-

5 years,

ington has evolved from an extremely predictable restaurant town, one in

which dining out was more a matter of convenience and expense account than pleasure, to one of the country's top ten culinary centers

where

it's

The

really fun to be a restaurant

of heavy French and

sorts

—

a city

critic.

Italian

and "continental" dishes that a

generation of Washingtonians was inured to have been replaced by market-fresh, innovative, and even nutritionally informed recipes, many

of them combining elements of the older together as

of what

is,

classic cuisines (often

lumped

and a strong influence in the development "modern for lack of a better term, described as "modern American"). eclectic"

Far beyond those cuisines are the scores of Vietnamese, Japanese, Indian,

Chinese (of

regions),

all

just first-generation critically

styles

and Ethiopian establishments

mom-and-pop immigrant

acclaimed restaurants.

means

And

better quality as well:

Thai food, has

—

in the area, not

but professional,

eateries

the greater quantity of choices in

The most

recent

like the successive explosions in

boom,

all

the one in

other ethnic fare

—edu-

cated diners to the delicacy as well as the potency of that cuisine, and

chased

The show

many

of the quickie, unauthentic kitchens out of business.

boom

ethnic-fare

them, are developing consider ican,

is

almost certain to continue: National surveys

that younger consumers, "Generations

them

much

as

and Chinese

to stick to. diversity,

And

which

tastes for a variety

a part of the

X and Y,"

as

marketers

of ethnic flavors early in

American buffet

— meaning Cantonese,

primarily

life,

as the Italian,

—

call

and

Mex-

older diners tend

continued immigration naturally means greater cultural is

why there are

increasing

numbers of African and Russ-

ian restaurants in this country.

253

252

Washington's Attractions

Part Seven

Phone

For more information on Old Town, call the Alexandria Convention and Visitors

Association at (800) 388-9

1

1

9 or (703) 838-4200. Press 4 for a recording of special

events that's updated regularly.

When

Go Anytime Comments The

to

Special

most scenic spot for a brown-bag lunch are the on the Potomac River

picnic

tables located at the foot of First Street,

Overall Appeal by Age Preschool

Grade school

Group

•• ***

Teens

|

•••

|

Young aduks^*.^**i/2

|

Over 30 ••••^/i

****!/2

Seniors

|

"

"-^-^

Author's Rating

A

satisfying contrast to

How Much Time t<^Allow

Half a day.

D.C.^^**

awesome

the second

If it's

half,

Comments

Description and Robert

E.

Alexandria^

'both

clairris

Lee as native sons, so history buffs have a

period revival houses that

rival

those

sray for dinner;

Old Town

/

Alexandria has a greatselection of restaurants.

George Washington and

lot to see.

Topping the

list

Georgetown, another old port up the

in

are

river;

Gadsby's Tavern (open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., April through Sep-

tember, and

p.m. to 5 p.m.

I

on Sunday; guided tours

at quarter of

and quarter past the

hour); Christ Church; and the Lee-Fendall House. This hip, revitalized city

Potomac

is

crammed with

(art, jewelry, children's

on the

exotic restaurants (Thai, Indian, Lebanese, Greek) and shops

books, antiques, Persian carpets). And, unlike those

town, the eating and drinking establishments

in

Old Town

George-

in

aren't overrun by suburban

teenagers on weekends.

As you

Touring Tips for a quick trip right

down

Metro

exit the King Street

Town

King Street to Old

onto King Street for a pleasant 15-minute

itor center

is

at the

station, either

stroll

Lyceum, where two exhibition

DASH

board a

(85 cents), or walk to your

left

toward the riverThe closest

galleries

and a

museum

bus

and turn vis-

of the area's

history are featured; from King Street, turn right onto Washington Street and walk a

block.There's also a small niture,

and

House,

built in

Civil

War

museum

featuring prints, documents, photographs,

memorabilia. Farther

1724 and

now Alexandria's

down King

official visitor

to 5 p.m., exceptThanksgiving, Christmas, and

good

starting point for a walking tour of

Center tors,

dios housed

in

artists

up a pass that But parking

it

If

open

daily

Days. Ramsay

Ramsay

from 9 a.m.

House makes

1

a

50 painters, printmakers, sculpartists at

work

in

their stu-

you drive to Alexandria, park your car

a nickel or a dime, and

you park free for 24 hours

city limits is

more than

the former munitions factory.

lets

New Year's

and craftspeople.Visitors can watch

a two-hour metered space, feed

Alexandria

center,

silver, fur-

left is

Old Town Alexandria.The Torpedo Factory Art

at the foot of King Street features

and other

Street on the

in

go to a

in

visitor center to pick

any two-hour metered zone inside

(renewable once); you'll need your vehicle's license plate number

scarce and the King Street Metro

Other Things to Do Nearby

About

a mile

is

conveniently located.

west of the center of Alexandria

is

the

George Washington National Masonic Memorial. A free tour features a view from the 333-foot tower, Washington memorabilia, a 370-year-old Persian rug valued at $1 miland more information about Masonry than you probably want.The tours are given Monday through Saturday on the half-hour in the mornings and on the hour in the afternoons; the Memorial is open daily, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Mount Vernon, George Washlion,

ington's plantation

on the Potomac,

is

eight miles downriver.

Part Eight

Dining and Restaurants

Experiencing Washington Cuisine

The New Washington Cookery In the

last

15 years, and even

more

rapidly over the past 5 years,

Wash-

ington has evolved from an extremely predictable restaurant town, one in

which dining out was more a matter of convenience and expense account than pleasure, to one of the country's top ten culinary centers

where

it's

The

really fiin to be a restaurant

of heavy French and

sorts

—

a city

critic.

Italian

and "continental" dishes that a

generation of Washingtonians was inured to have been replaced by market-fresh, innovative, and even nutritionally informed recipes, many

of them combining elements of the older together as

of what

is,

classic cuisines (often

lumped

and a strong influence in the development "modern for lack of a better term, described as "modern American"). eclectic"

Far beyond those cuisines are the scores of Vietnamese, Japanese, Indian,

Chinese (of

regions),

all

just first-generation critically

styles

and Ethiopian establishments

mom-and-pop immigrant

acclaimed restaurants.

means

And

better quality as well:

Thai food, has

—

in the area, not

but professional,

eateries

the greater quantity of choices in

The most

recent

like the successive explosions in

boom,

all

the one in

other ethnic fare

—edu-

cated diners to the delicacy as well as the potency of that cuisine, and

chased

The show

many

of the quickie, unauthentic kitchens out of business. boom is almost certain to continue: National surveys

ethnic-fare

that younger consumers, "Generations

them, are developing consider ican,

them

as

much

and Chinese

to stick to. diversity,

And

which

tastes for a variety

a part of the

X and Y,"

as

marketers

of ethnic flavors early in

American buffet

—meaning Cantonese,

primarily

life,

as the Italian,

—

call

and

Mex-

older diners tend

continued immigration naturally means greater cultural is

why there

are increasing

numbers of African and Russ-

ian restaurants in this country.

253

254

Part Eight

Dining and Restaurants

The Washington

become demanding enough

palate has

frank, the expense accounts have

prising

expanded

number of restaurants from

other dining capitals to open branches

New

York's ultra-haute Lespinasse (closed

from

in the nation's capital,

since the sale of the St. Regis Hotel chain)

and super-steakhouses Charlie

Palmer Steak, Bobby Vans, and Smith and the more laid-back

Miami's Ortanique

—

&

WoUensky;

(now Michel

Olives; to L.A.'s haute-haute Citronelle base)

(and, to be

sufficiently) to inspire a sur-

Nick and

beefeaters' palace,

Boston's

to

Richard's

home

Stef's; to

even, albeit at one step removed; California's land-

mark French Laundry, thanks to the hiring of its longtime chef de cuisine Eric Ziebold to the Mandarin Oriental's ambitious CityZen restaurant.

Though

it's

a 90-minute drive, Washingtonians gladly claim pride of

place for the five-star in

Inn

at Little

Washington, Virginia), whose

admired

And ladin,

Mark

a host of chefs

O'Connell, and Yannick Cam,

own. More

who

Roberto Donna, Jean-Louis

and those same old-time

their

it's

of note.

Washington generation,

Miller, Patrick

and restaurants of

(the "Little," because

Patrick O'Connell, has been

chef,

in the kitchens of star chefs

better hotel restaurants

young

Washington

in print in every culinary journal

a different sort of

grew up

classicists,

Pal-

as well as the

have kitchens

than contentious, these

collegial

chefs are developing a style that plays

up

regional flavors: Chesa-

peake Bay seafoods; Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland game; and the wealth of organic produce and herbs being raised for this market.

Organic-cooking maven Nora Poullion

but

as

may

number of menus with

credit for the entries,

not be able to claim

all

the

additive-free or heart-healthy

founder of a national organic network, the Chefs Collec-

many

demand the freshest ingredihome of the Center for Science

other chefs to

tive,

she has inspired

ents.

(And, of course, Washington

is

the

who went

in the Public Interest, the folks

tucine Alfredo was just as bad for you as

right

on and

itself

is

told

you always knew

That an increasing number of these young remain in the D.C. area

Among them

it

you

that fet-

was.)

chefs are choosing to

proof of the audience's sophistication.

Todd Gray of Equinox, Jacques Ford of Matisse, Persimmon, Eric McCoy of Cafe Bethesda, Jason Tepper of La Miche, Jonathan Krinn of 2941, Johnny Monis of Komi,

Damien

are

Salvatore of

and Barbara Black of Addies. Even more intriguing

is

the

number of chefs who,

been lured away from big-name nation's capital.

now

eateries in

like Ziebold,

Manhattan

Leeds, a veteran of such

hot new-downtown

Manhattan hot spots

MCI

have

to positions in the

Frank Morales, formerly of New York's Union

at Zola, in the very

Center

Pacific,

district.

as Tribeca Grill

is

Jamie

and Union

Square Cafe, created 15 ria in the Washington Terrace Hotel (1515

Rhode

I

Island Avenue,

NW;

Mathieson quit Lespinasse

(202) 742-0015). Gray to

open Poste

in the

Koonz protege Jon Monaco and

Hotel

I

— Experiencing Washington Cuisine

Mina Newman,

formerly of Layla created a

menu

of hilariously

255

irrever-

ent recipes at Restaurant Seven in Tysons Corner (though both have

moved

since

on). Just to

New Restaurant

name

a few.

Districts

Along with the awakening of the Washington palate has come a rearrangement of the dining map. While Georgetown remains a busy shopping and nightlife area, it is no longer the dominant restaurant strip.

downtown arts district from the MCI Center at Seventh about Tenth Street north of Pennsylvania Avenue, known as Penn Quarter; the stunning renaissance of its near-neighbor, the midtown region from approximately Tenth to 20th Streets between F and K;

The

revitalized

Street west to

the ethnically mixed

northwest suburbs

Wheaton and

—

Adams-Morgan/U

neighborhood; and the neighborhoods of

Street

particularly the Asian polyglot

Bethesda, with their "golden triangles" of restaurants

emerged as livelier locations, with Gaithersburg and Germantown hot on their heels. At the same time, restaurant dining has become so diversified that one no longer needs to go to the "Little Saigon" neighborhood around Clarendon for very good Vietnamese cooking (although Adams-Morgan is still home to most of the Ethiopian restaurants and Annandale the center of Korean fare); in fact, it's hard to imagine that anyone living in the Washington metropolitan area is more than a mile have

all

from

five

Not

or six different ethnic restaurants.

surprisingly, given

its

long lobbying habits, Washington has also

rediscovered the big steak and big-ticket business meals, and put the two

together at the twenty-first-century version of the saloon, the platinum-

card chophouse. These are lar

— —

prime

lists

that

beef,

now

so popular,

creamed spinach,

we have simply

"More Recommendations,"

and

Caesar

cow

listed the biggest

so that

their formats so simi-

and hefty wine

salad,

palaces below, under

you can browse by

location.

Scoping Out the Lunch Crowd In the old days the price of a Washington meal proved

and

rant rests

even

its

importance

by implication, the diners'. These days the appeal of a

its

more on

a kitchen's imagination,

its

bottled water. Half the ftin of lunching out

midday clientele: power lunchers secret spots),

(at

restauservice,

scoping out the

and some well-kept ethnic restaurants, which are

on the uptake than

at

traditional white-linen establish-

ments), flower lunchers (the remnants of the leisure lunchers (those roving bands of office workers ebrating someone's great occasion but If you're

is

its

the old standbys

hour lunchers (very often

rather quicker

D.C.

beer selection,

class),

and shower

who seem always

who want

to be cel-

individual checks).

not sure which kind of restaurant you've just walked into,

glance around at the beverage glasses. Power lunchers are

more

likely to

order a cocktail, hour lunchers a beer, flower lunchers wine, and shower lunchers soft drinks or pitchers with paper fans.

256

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

Brunch

back in fashion, not only on Sundays but on Saturdays, and

is

not just eggy but ethnic; see the hst of "Best Sunday Brunches" below.

Industry Trends

With

the slowing of the 1990s stock market,

and a few hints of economic from customer

"correction," Washington's restaurant industry took a hit efforts to

economize. Several of the finer establishments, caught between

the pincers of exorbitant rent and declining expense-account business,

most notably Lespinasse and and Aquarelle closed and

Dean*s, Provencal,

have had to take advantage of Chapter

or similar restructuring. There are

1 1

Timothy

successor,

its

several

still

plenty of expensive menus,

though, from which to choose, and some of the most influential chefs in the area have opened what might be called "off-the-rack" restaurants (cafes

and

pizzerias) in addition to their designer

menus

—sometimes

same rooms. Roberto Donna of Galileo has both and a

the Laboratorio del Galileo,

And, his

"tasting

menu

distinct

room" and a from

its

are continually rethinking

is

home

list.

NW;

vania Avenue,

The 1 00

now Oyamel),

Marou Outtawa of Signatures

(801 Pennsyl-

or so restaurant profiles that follow are intended to give you a

and advantages of

a particular establishment as

None should be taken as gospel, because one new appetite for adventure is that restaurants

particular cuisine.

drawback of Washington's

open and

close

—and

promising chefs play musical kitchens

breathtaking speed. This also means that

we have

for the

only restaurants that have been in operation for at

just

—

^with

most part pro-

least a year, or that

have chefs with such strong track records that they are of special

Some

in

who Ramon

(202) 628-5900) and Michel Richard of Citronelle.

sense of the atmosphere its

was

to first-rank creative chefs

and reconstructing food, notably Jose

Fabio Trabocchi (Maestro),

with

bistro,

main

Andres (Cafe Atlantico, Minibar, Jaleo, Zaytinya and

filed

section,

for perhaps the first time since the late Jean-Louis Palladin

Watergate heyday, Washington

well as

inside the

more upscale

formal Osteria del Galileo inside

less

Eve has a

the restaurant. Restaurant

separate menus; Palena has a bar

a

interest.

very promising restaurants have been omitted because they were

opening

come up

at press time;

to scratch.

hard-and-fast rule.)

other rather well-known ones

(We tend

to avoid chain restaurants,

We have also

in

some

may

not have

though

it's

not a

cases given preference to estab-

lishments with subway access, though only as a balancing factor.

And, blame

it

on yuppie consciousness, gourmet magazine

tion, or real curiosity, the increased interest in the techniques

has also produced a tions,

demand

and guaranteed

restaurants change their

more change places

may

prolifera-

of cooking

for variety, constantly challenging presenta-

freshness.

menus

Consequently,

many of

the fancier

or some portion thereof every day, and

seasonally, so the specific dishes

recommended

at particular

not be available on a given night. Use these critiques

as a

Experiencing Washington Cuisine guide, an indication of the chef's interests nesses, too. We'll tell

The

New

When

ventional

and strengths

—and weak-

trying.

Hotel Dining

comes

it

you what's not worth

257

to hotel dining

wisdom

D.C. many of the

rooms, Washington contradicts the con-

that hotel restaurants are not better chefs are

working

worth seeking

in hotels.

This

beneficial arrangement, allowing the chefs to concentrate

kitchen, not a business,

and providing an

is

a

out. In

mutually

on managing

a

extra attraction to potential

Since Washington's hotels count on a great deal of expense-

clients.

account business, they generally offer menus on the expensive

side.

In

we recommend those at the Willard Hay- Adams Hotel (Lafayette), the Four

addition to the restaurants profiled,

Hotel (Willard Room), the

Seasons (Seasons), Jefferson Hotel, the Madison Hotel (Palette),

Washington Circle (Circle ington Inn (Nectar), Cafe tal,

Bistro), the River Inn (Dish),

Mozu

and CityZen

at the

One

George Wash-

Mandarin Orien-

run by Yamamoto and former French Laundry executive chef Eric

Ziebold, respectively; the Morrison-Clark Inn, the Watergate (Jeffrey's at the Watergate), the Hyatt

Regency

in

Reston (Market Street

(Cafe 15), Washington Terrace (15

Sofitel

(Poste),

ria),

Grill),

Monaco downtown

the Hotel

Henley Park (Coeur de Lion), the Ritz-Carlton

(Jockey Club), the Stratford Motor Inn in Falls Church (Cafe Rose), the Fairmont (The Bistro), and the Mayflower (Cafe Promenade), as well as those noted in the description of the

new downtown

below.

The Inns and Outs The Washington

area

is

also blessed

within a couple hours' drive. ally

We

with some very fine country inns

have actually profiled only the nation-

famous Inn at Little Washington

you're taking a longer vacation

in this edition, but in addition, if

and want

to see the countryside,

we

would recommend looking into such restaurants as Antrim 1844 in Taneytown, Willow Grove in Orange, Stone Manor in Middleton, the Turning Point Inn in Urbana, Four and Twenty Blackbirds in Flint Hill, the Hermitage Inn in Clifton, and the Ashby Inn in Paris. And the Goose Run restaurant at the luxurious Salamander Inn and Spa, scheduled to open in the

fall

of 2005, will be run by executive chef Todd Gray,

owner-chef of Equinox, profiled below.

Diners' Special

The

Needs

following profiles attempt to address the special requirements of

diners

who

use wheelchairs or leg braces. Because so

ton's restaurants occupy older buildings

many

of Washing-

and row houses, options

for

wheelchair users are unfortunately limited. In most cases, wheelchair access

is

prevented right

entrance to the dining

at the street,

room keep

but

many

their rest

restaurants offering easy

rooms up or down

a flight of

Dining and Restaurants

258

Part Eight

stairs.

In either case,

we

access suggests that there

may be

passage is

them

list is

an

bets

—

or small barrier to cross, or that

a bit tight, but that once inside the establishment, dining

comfortable for the wheelchair

good

having "no" disabled access. "Fair"

as

initial step

same wide

the

Again, hotel dining rooms are

user.

and ramps used

halls

deliveries serve wheelchair users as well.

for baggage carts

and

office buildings

and

Newer

mixed shopping and entertainment complexes have ramps and

make them

that

even have their

We

have not categorized restaurants

on

some

request, although

accustomed

to

world feature

making veggie

much meat

as

good

cuisines are

will

make

are particularly

many nonmeat

unlikely to have

as offering vegetarian or

other

Washington restaurants now

common

Use

said so.

all

on the menu or

either vegetarian entrees

and we have

stations

elevators.

restricted diets because almost

dishes

subway

wheelchair-accessible; the ones above

own

elevators

sense:

A

offer

low-salt or low-fat

amenable to doing

this,

big-ticket steakhouse

many

options (though

is

have become

but since few countries in the

plates),

most ethnic

in their cuisine as America,

bets for vegetarians.

Places to See Faces Washington may not movie

come

stars

to

be Hollywood on the Potomac

really

town

to lobby for their pet causes,

it's

(so

many

getting close),

but there are celebrity faces aplenty. Consequently, out-of-towners often list

"famous people" right

required-viewing star

treatment

visible in

is

list.

most

dependable places, particularly

celeb-

and

roles

—

—and

celebrities

—

the

getting

tend to be

at lunch.

Milano has emerged

socialite-centric restaurant,

even media-types. Ditto performers

known

part of the scene

is

one of the perks of being famous

In the past couple of years. Cafe

Museum on

Air and Space

after the

Since being seen

the

as the single

with diplomats,

new decor

is

royals,

based on

and

the best-

of regular Placido Domingo.

In this town, at

that Democratic

not only makes strange bedfellows,

least, politics

makes strange dining

partners.

Which may be why

bad boy James Carville and

his

it

odd Republican commentait

wasn't

all

that

Mary Matalin tried opening their own neo-Southern restaurant, West 24 (it didn't get enough bipartisan support). Top Democratic lobtor wife

byist

Tommy

Boggs and former

expertise in getting along;

house, the hit.

On

Caucus

Room

and

GOP

heavy Haley Barbour have more

their flagrantly pork-barrel sort

(Ninth and

D

Streets; (202)

the other hand, in restaurants as in politics,

spate of stories tagging lobbyist Jack

upscale kosher spot Archives ious former-Soviet states

Russian-retro

Mayim.

and

—and

it's

is

a

the PR, stupid; a

Abramoff made short work of

his

The embassy staffers from varshow up at the U.S. counterparts

Stacks.

their

of steak-

393-1300),

—

The

its

bullying waiters,

The 6200)

259

NW;

(202)

Palm (1225 19th

venerable steak-and-lobster

293-9091), with its

Experiencing Washington Cuisine

wall-to-wall caricatures of

media and

a popular

is still

Street,

famous customers and

legal-eagle hangout.

NW;

Pennsylvania Avenue,

Capital Grille (601

grounds,

it

boardroom and back room

serves as both

(202) 737-

from the Capitol

particularly well located; only a short stroll

is

for the

GOP.

After

the party's 1995 gala, a couple hundred of the black-tie guests dropped

by the

and

Grille for drinks

Only

cigars.

few nights before, when a

a

clutch of budget-crunching Republican senators had peeked in after last call,

the general manager had rolled

dozen

Back

The

strategic burgers.

more

in

up

his sleeves

Grille gets

its

and

share of

Lauch

coUegial times, then-Senators

grilled a

odd

couple

couples, too:

Faircloth, a right-

Moynihan (now

leaning republican, and liberal intellectual Senator Pat

deceased) arrived for dinner, Faircloth announcing the pair to staff as "the redneck

and the

aristocrat."

Galileo, the flagship restaurant of Washington's capo di tutti capi chef

Roberto Donna, has Dole. Restaurant

its

opposing

Nora was

political icons,

Ted Kennedy and Bob and Gores;

an early favorite of the Clintons

former Energy Secretary Hazel O'Leary, Bosnian peacemeister Richard C. Holbrooke, and Clinton insider Vernon Jordan old-clubby

Monocle (107

transfer point

Republican

D

NE;

Street,

between the Senate and

money men

—

its

Melrose. The

office buildings,

D'Amato and

^Alfonse

like

(202) 546-4488), the unofficial

draws the

Pete Domenici, former

chairmen of the Senate banking and finance committees, respectively, and John Kasich, former chairman of the House budget committee.

The

elegant Raj-redux

House

attracts

Bombay Club

across the street

from the White

pol-turned-commentator George Stephanopoulos, Janet

Reno, and John Glenn. Senator Frank Lautenberg of New Jersey (who bill banning smoking on airlines), Stephanopoulos, D'Amato,

wrote the

and Bob Kerrey (president of New School University taken the steak-and-stogie course

Avenue,

NW;

at

in

New York)

have

Les Halles (1201 Pennsylvania

(202) 347-6848).

Pol-watchers should also check out

Two Quail

(320 Massachusetts

Avenue, NE; (202) 543-8030) for congresswomen or La Colline for committee staffers. Bullfeathers is full of national committee staffers

from both

Adams

parties (410 First Street, SE; (202) 543-5005).

(16th and

breakfast

H

Streets,

NW;

Grill,

is

The Hay-

where the power

was born, starring White House

Treasury and White House (202)

Avenue,

(202) 638-6600)

NW;

347-4801,

staff and federal bureaucrats. crowd the neighboring Old Ebbitt

staff"

the

Occidental

Grill

(1475

Pennsylvania

(202) 783-1475), and Georgia Brown's. And,

low-profile politicians

and working

especially in shad roe season, are sionals incognito (200

E

Street,

press

who

rumored

SW;

among

the

frequent the

Market Inn,

CIA and

other profes-

to be

(202) 554-2100).

260

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

World Bank and rate write-offs

OAS

suits

lunch

Taberna del Alabardero; corpo-

at

go to the Prime Rib (2020

K

NW;

Street,

(202) 466-

8811) and the midtown Morton's (L Street and Connecticut; (202) 955-5997).

Chef Alison Swope's decision to go made Andale a popular hangout for

all

modern-regional Mexican has

politicos

de todas

las

Americas,

including the Mexican and Canadian ambassadors and Senators Diane Feinstein of California

media, and sports

and Kevin Brady of Texas. The black

stars

intelligensia,

(BET founder Robert Johnson, D.C. Mayor

Anthony Williams, Redskins owner Dan Snyder, Capitals owner Ted Leonsis, and visiting celebs Morgan Freeman and Danny Glover) like Ortanique.

Oceanaire draws a

Shaw and

lot

of media

faces,

host Larry King, a host of

including

ABC News

CNN anchor Bernard

staffers

Cochran, commentator George Stephanopoulus,

Chris Wallace; radio anti-hero Oliver North, as well as a letes.

(The downtown restaurants being so near the

them may

including John

Sam Donaldson, and

MCI

number of athCentre, any of

sport a jersey or two.)

Ristorante Tosca has become a sort of unofficial Democratic hangout: regulars

include

many younger

pros

from

Kennedy/Shriver/

the

Edward Kennedy (who prefers dining in the kitchen); presidential alter ego Martin Sheen of NBC's 77?^ West Wing; and power couple NBC reporter Andrea Mitchell and Federal Reserve Chairman Alan Greenspan.

Townsend

clan as well as Senator

The New Downtown Dining The

revival

of the area between the power poles of the Capitol and the

White House, with the new Convention Center and the sports arena in between, has

the

downtown

sports fans,

Among

area; after

how

could

it

new

MCI

produced an astonishing restaurant

all,

with

all

Centre

boom

in

those lobbyists, politicians and

miss?

downtown dining

scene

are:

Zaytinya, an upscale Middle Eastern tapas restaurant from the folks

who

the best

entries into the

brought you Jaleo and Cafe Atlantico; Zola next to the International Spy

Museum;

the luxe

Le Paradou;

the whimsical

Minibar

Ristorante Tosca; and the nuevo-Latino Ortanique,

Others include Finemondo (1319 F

Street,

NW;

at

Cafe Atlantico;

all

profiled below.

(202) 737-3100), a sort

of kebab house on the big steakhouse model and offering whole lambs on

Wood-Fired Pizza (901 F Street, NW; (202) 638Chef Geoff's (1301 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW; (202) 464-4461);

a day's notice; Ellas

3434);

Signatures (801 Pennsylvania Avenue,

15

in the Sofitel Hotel,

NW;

(202) 628-5900); and Cafe

whose menu was created by

Michelin-star Antoine Westerman.

Strasbourg's three-

1

The Restaurants With

the influx of boutique hotels has

mostly named simply

more upscale Wabeck was

fare

come

26

boutique lounges,

also the

themselves but often serving rather

after the hotels

than the traditional bar

Longtime

bites.

chef John

local

chef for three of these (almost too hip)

briefly executive

them

scenes at once, although he gave

slightly different personalities: the

Topaz Bar (1722 N Street, NW; (202) 393-3000); the nuevo-Latino accented Bar Rouge (1315 16th Street, NW; (202) 2328000); and Helix (1430 Rhode Island Avenue, NW; (202) 462-9001).

more

Asian-ftision

Wabeck

now on

is

the group's fourth

new

venture in a matter of months,

Madera (1310

the Firefly Restaurant alongside the Hotel shire

The Our We

NW;

Avenue,

these four

all

(202) 861-1310).

(Actually,

New Hamp-

the fifth venture, as

it's

belong to the same group that owns the Hotel Monaco.)

Restaurants Favorite Washington Restaurants

have developed detailed profiles for the most interesting and

restaurants

(in

reliable

our opinion) in town. Each profile features an

easily

scanned heading that allows you, in just a second, to check out the restaurant's

name,

Cuisine

cuisine, star rating, cost, quality rating,

This

is

actually less straightforward than

and value

it

sounds.

rating.

A

couple of

years ago, for example, "pan-Asian" restaurants were generally serving

was then generally described

European techniques, or vice

—

food

as "fiision"

^Asian ingredients

all

specialize in

with

been a pan-Asian

versa. Since then, there has

explosion in the area, but nearly

what

what would be

street

food

back home: noodles, skewers, dumplings, and soups. Modern American sounds pretty broad, and

and part "new are

eclectic."

it is

Like

—

art,

part

"new

you know

major subdivisions of cuisine, we have

ous place; Marcel's nitely Belgian.

continental," part "regional,"

it

when you see

tried to

Belgian-French, while

is

And Nuevo

Latino

is

put

it

it.

Where

in the

Le Mannequin Pis

distinctly different

from

there

most obviis

defi-

traditional

Spanish or South American. Again, though, experimentation and "fusion" is

ever

more common,

so don't hold us, or the chefs, to too strict a style.

The

Overall Star Rating

star rating

is

an

overall rating that

passes the entire dining experience, including style, service,

ence in addition to the stars

is

taste,

encom-

and ambi-

presentation, and quality of the food. Five

the highest rating possible

and connotes the

Four-star restaurants are exceptional,

and

best of everything.

three-star restaurants are well

above average. Two-star restaurants are good.

One

star

is

used to indicate

an average restaurant that demonstrates an unusual capability in some area of specialization

—

for example,

that has great barbecued chicken.

an otherwise unmemorable place

262

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

Cost

To

the right of the star rating

vides a comparative sense of

an expense description that pro-

is

how much

a complete

meal

A

will cost.

complete meal for our purposes consists of an entree with vegetable or side dish

and choice of soup or

salad. Appetizers, desserts, drinks,

and

tips are excluded.

Inexpensive

$14 and

Moderate

$ 5-$30 per person

Expensive

More than $30 per person

per person

less

1

The food quality is rated on a five-star scale, five being The quality rating is based solely on the food

Quality Rating

the best rating attainable.

served, taking into account taste, freshness of ingredients, preparation,

presentation,

want the

and

There

creativity.

best food available,

and

no consideration of

is

cost

is

not an

issue,

price. If

you

look no further

than the quality ratings.

on the other hand, you

Value Rating

If,

and

value, then

you should check the value

The

value ratings are defined as follows:

***** **** *** **

are looking for

both quality

rating, also expressed in stars.

Exceptional value; a real bargain

Good

value

Fair value;

you get exactly what you pay for

Somewhat overpriced

*

Significantly

Locating the Restaurant

Just

overpriced

below the heading

is

a designation for

geographic zone. This zone description will give you a general idea of

where the restaurant described D.C., into the following Zone

I

The National

is

We've divided Washington,

located.

geographic zones:

1 1

Zone 7

Mall

Upper Northwest

Zone 2

Capitol

Hill

Zone 8

Northeast

Zone

Downtown

Zone 9

Southeast

Zone 4

Foggy Bottom

Zone

Zone

Georgetown

Zone

3

5

Zone 6

Dupont

Maryland suburbs

1

I

Virginia suburbs

I

Circle/

Adams-Morgan

The Maryland suburbs

are divided into four smaller areas:

Zones

1

OA

bounded by the Potomac and Georgia Avenue and divided by the Beltway; Zone 1 OC is defined by 1 6th Street/Georgia Avenue, the District line. New Hampshire (Bethesda)

lOB (Rockville-Gaithersburg)

and

Avenue, and 1-95 necessarily splits

as a

the District line up

The

wedge

that runs north

Wheaton down

New Hampshire and

Virginia suburbs are

95/395 into three

the middle;

slices:

from

Silver Spring

and Zone

1

OD

and

that

reaches from

1-95 around to the Virginia line.

marked off more

Zone llA

are

cleanly along 1-66

covers Tysons Corner,

and

I-

McLean,

The Restaurants Vienna, and Reston; Zone fax;

and Zone llC

is

for detailed

zone maps.

Payment

We've

listed the

using the following code: equals Carte Blanche, equals MasterCard,

and Visa

is

includes Arlington, Annandale,

D

JCB

Old and

type of

AmEx

and Fair10-27

otherwise. See pages

payment accepted

at

each restaurant

equals American Express (Optima),

equals Discover,

DC

equals Diners Club,

equals Japan Credit Bank,

CB

MC

T equals Transmedia,

self-explanatory.

Who's Included in

B

1 1

Alexandria,

263

Because restaurants are opening and closing

Washington, we have

tried to confine

proven track record over a

fairly

our

all

the time

to establishments

list

with a

long period of time. Franchises and

national chains are rarely included, although local "chains," restaurant

groups of three or four,

may

be.

Newer

or changed establishments that

demonstrate staying power and consistency will be profiled in subsequent editions. Also, the

list is

highly selective. Noninclusion of a particular place

does not necessarily indicate that the restaurant it

was not ranked among the best

in

its

is

not good, but only that

genre. Detailed profiles of individ-

ual restaurants follow in alphabetical order at the

end of this

part.

RESTAURANTS BY CUISINE.THEN STAR RATING Cuisine and

Name

Overall Rating

Price Rating

Quality Rating

Value Rating

264

Part Eight

Dining and Restaurants

RESTAURANTS BY CUISINE,THEN STAR RATING

(continued)

The Restaurants

RESTAURANTS BY CUISINE.THEN STAR RATING Cuisine and

Name

(continued)

265

266

Part Eight

Dining and Restaurants

RESTAURANTS BY CUISINE.THEN STAR RATING Cuisine and

Name

(continued)

The Restaurants

RESTAURANTS BY ZONE.THEN ALPHABETICAL (continued)

267

268

Part Eight

Dining and Restaurants

RESTAURANTS BY ZONE,THEN ALPHABETICAL (continued)

More Recommendations

RESTAURANTS BY ZONE.THEN ALPHABETICAL

(continued)

269

270

Part Eight

Dining and Restaurants

The Biggest Beef Steakhouses

NW (202) 333- 00 NW (202) 589-0060 Capital Grille 601 Pennsylvania Avenue. NW (202) 737-6200 Caucus Room Ninth and F streets. NW (202) 393- 300 Constitution Avenue. NW (202) 547-8 Charlie Palmer Steak Blackie's

227 22nd

1

Bobby Van's

809

Street.

1

1

5th Street.

1

1

1

1

Don 1

1

00

8028 Leesburg Pike.Tysons Corner (703) 506-3256; Hampshire Avenue. (202) 828-7762

Shula's

123

New

NW

& Wine Bar

Fleming's Steakhouse

1

960 Chain Bridge Road.Tysons

Corner (703) 442-8384 J.

6903 Old Dominion Drive, McLean (703) 893- 034

Gilbert's

1

Morton's of Chicago

325

Prospect Street,

1

NW (202) 342-6258;

8075 Leesburg Pike/Route 7,Tysons Corner (703) 883-0800; 1050 Connecticut Avenue.

NW (202) 955-5997;

1631 Crystal Square Arcade. Arlington (703) 418-1444;

One Freedom Square. Reston Town Center. Reston 225 9th Street. NW (202) 293-909 Palm 1

1

1

(703) 796-0128

1

750 Tyson's Boulevard.Tyson's Corner (703) 917-0200

Prime Rib

2020 K

Street,

NW (202) 466-88

Ruth's Chris Steakhouse

724 Ninth

1

80

1

)

1

1

I

NW (202) 797-0033;

NW (202) 393-4488;

Street.

73 5 Wisconsin Avenue. Bethesda (30

223

1

Connecticut Avenue,

652-7877;

1

Crystal Drive. Crystal City (703) 979-7275

Sam &

NW

200 9th Street. Harry's (202) 296-4333; 8240 Leesburg Pike.Tysons Corner (703) 448-0088

Smith

1

1

& Wollensky's

II

I

2

1

9th Street,

N W (202)

466-

1

1

00

The Freshest Beers (Brewed On-site) Brewer's Alley

1

24 N. Market Street. Frederick (30

Capitol City Brewing Co. 2 Massachusetts Avenue.

NE

I

100

)

63 -0089 1

1

New York Avenue. NW

(202) 628-2222;

(202) 842-2337;

2700 South Quincy Street.Arlington (703) 578-3888

DuClaw Brewing Co.

1

6-A Bel-Air South Station Parkway.

Bel Air

(410)515-3222

and Brewpub

Franklin's Restaurant

5 23 Baltimore Avenue. Hyattsville 1

(301)927-2740

Hops 3625 Jefferson Davis Highway Alexandria (703) 837-9 07 Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant 900 F Street. NW (202) 783-5454 John Harvard's Brewhouse 1299 Pennsylvania Avenue. NW (202) 783-2739 Rock Bottom Restaurant & Brewery 7900 Norfolk Avenue, Bethesda 1

(301)652-1311

Summit

Station

227 East Diamond Avenue, Gaithersburg (30

Sweetwater Tavern

1

Virginia Beverage Co.

) 1

5 9-9400 1

4250 Sweetwater Lane, Centreville (703) 449607 King

Street. Alexandria (703)

684-5397

The Best Burgers The

Brickskeller

810 Seventh Five

Guys

Street.

523 22nd Street. NW NW (202) 289-2030

1

Nine area

locations; visit

them

(202) 293- 885; 1

online at www.fiveguys.com.

1

1

00

1

More Recommendations Old Ebbitt

RFD

675

Grill

810 Seventh

1

NW

5th Street,

NW

Street.

271

(202) 347-4801

(202) 289-2030

Union Street Public House

2

1

South Union Street Alexandria (703) 548- 785 1

1

The Most Entertaining Decor Busara 8 42 1

N

Mie P.P.

2340 Wisconsin Avenue.

Watson

Yu 3125 M

Chang's

1

7

1

NW

(202)337-2340;

McLean (703) 356-2288

Street.

NW

Street.

6M

(202) 333-6122

International Drive (Tysons Galleria).

McLean

(703) 734-8996

2029 P

Pizzeria Paradise

Red Sage

NW

Street.

(202) 223- 245 1

7928 L.Tysons Corner Center. McLean (703) 82

Rainforest Cafe

605 14th

NW

Street.

Ristorante Filomena

1

900

1

(202) 638-4444

1063 Wisconsin Avenue,

NW

(202)338-8800

226 Maple Avenue West, Vienna (703)255-2467;

TaraThai

4828 Bethesda Avenue. Bethesda (301) 657-0488; 12071 Rockville Pike (Montrose Crossing), Rockville (301)231-9899;

750 -C Leesburg Pike.Tysons Corner (703) 506-9788; 1

981

I

Washingtonian Boulevard,

Teatro Goldoni

909 K

1

the Rio Center (301) 947-8330

in

Street,

NW

(202) 955-9494

The Best Family Dining Cafe Deluxe 49

800 International Drive.Tysons Corner (703) 76 -0600; 1

1

Elm Street. Bethesda (30

1

Guapo's

)

656-3 3 1

1

45 5 Wisconsin Avenue, 1

NW

(202) 686-3588;

8498 Centreville Road, Manassas Park (703) 393-9449; 981

I

Washingtonian Boulevard (Rio Centre), Gaithersburg (301) 977-5655

Hard Rock Cafe 999 E Street. NW (202) 737-rock OIney Ale House 2000 Sandy Spring Road (Route 08). OIney 20 9th Street, NW (202) 293-3 38; Oodles Noodles

(30

1

1

I

)

774-6708

1

1

1

4907 Cordell Avenue, Bethesda (301) 986-8833

Radio Free

Italy

Cameron

5

Street (Torpedo Factory) (703)683-0361

7928 LTysons Corner Center. McLean (703) 82

Rainforest Cafe

1

-

1

900

The Best Pizza Ella's

Wood-Fired Pizza

Faccia Luna

NW (202) 638-3434 NW (202) 337-3 32;

901 F Street.

2400 Wisconsin Avenue,

1

823 Washington Street. Alexandria (703) 838-5998;

2909 Wilson Boulevard, Arlington (703) 276-3099 2029 P

Pizzeria Paradiso

Primi Piatti

20

Two Amys Zio's

1

37 5 1

3

I

Street.

Street.

Macomb

NW

NW

(202) 223- 245

Street and Wisconsin Avenue,

9083 Gaither Road, Gaithersburg (30

The Best

Raw

Black Bar

Blue Point

Oceanaire Kinkead's

&

)

NW

(202) 885-5700

977-6300

1

Bars

Kitchen

Grill

1

(202) 223-3600

7750 Woodmont Avenue, Bethesda (30

600 Franklin

1201 F Street,

Street, Alexandria (703)

NW

(202) 347-bass

2000 Pennsylvania Avenue.

NW

) 1

739-0404

(202)296-7700

652-6278

272

Raw

The Best

&

McCormick's

Bars

(continued)

Schmick's

I

1

920 Democracy Drive, Reston (703) 48 -6600; 1

Woodmont Avenue, Bethesda (30 652 K Street, NW (202) 86 -2233;

740 1

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

)

1

96 -2626; 1

1

1

8484Westpark Drive,Tysons Corner

(703) 848-8000;

NW (202) 639-9330

901 F Street,

Old Ebbitt Grill The Sea Catch

675

5th Street,

1

054

1

3

st Street,

1

NW (202) 347-4801 NW (202) 337-8855

The Best Sunday Brunches Cafe Atlantlco

405 Eighth

Street,

NW

(202) 393-08 2 (Saturday only) 1

The Four Seasons Hotel Garden Terrace

2800 Pennsylvania Avenue,

NW

(202) 342-0444

Gabriel

2 2 1

The

NW (next to Radisson Barcelo Hotel) (202) 956-6690 5th Street, NW (202) 393-4499

P Street,

1

Georgia Brown's Irish Inn at

950

1

Glen Echo

MacArthur Boulevard and Clara Barton Parkway,

Glen Echo (301)229-6600

480 Seventh

Jaleo

7255

Street,

Woodmont Avenue,

NW

(202) 628-7949;

Bethesda (301)91 3-0003;

2250 Crystal Drive, Arlington (703) 413-8181

The Kennedy Center Roof Terrace

NW

2000 Pennsylvania Avenue,

Kinkead's

Melrose

New

Virginia

New

and

Hampshire Avenues,

(202)416-8555

Heights

23 7 Calvert Street, 1

Old Angler's !nn Old Ebbitt

080

1

675

Grill

(202) 296-7700

Streets,

NW

NW

(202) 955-3899

(202) 234-4

1

1

MacArthur Boulevard, Potomac (30

1

5th Street,

1

NW

M

Park Hyatt Hotel, 24th and

NW

)

365-2425

1

(202) 347-480

The Best Sushi Bars Chopsticks

Ginza

073 Wisconsin Avenue,

1

009 2

1

Ha Ku Ba

st Street,

1

NW (202) 338-6

1

6

(202) 833- 244 1

706 Center Point Way, Kentlands, Gaithersburg (30

Hama Sushi

1

9 5 1

I

Street,

Momo Taro

1

605

1

1

Niwano Hana

887 Rockville Pike (Wintergreen Street,

NW

Plaza) (30

NW (202) 332-271 NW (202) 333-4 87

2635 Connecticut Avenue,

1

503

1

7th Street,

I

NW (202) 462-8999

67 5 Lowell Avenue, McLean (703) 847- 77

Tako

7756 Wisconsin Avenue, Bethesda (30

1

1

)

652-7030

1

Tono Sushi 2605 Connecticut Avenue, NW (202) 332-7300 Yoko 2946-J Chain Bridge Road, Oakton (703) 255-6644 Yosaku

47 2 Wisconsin Avenue, 1

963-6868

294-0553

1

Tachibana Grill

) 1

(202) 887-0900

2309 Wisconsin Avenue,

Sushi Taro

) 1

NW (202) 966-0023

Sakana

2026 P

1

Frederick Road/Route 355, Rockville (30

4620 Wisconsin Avenue,

Sushi-Ko

1

NW (202) 530-5500

1

Sake Club

947- 283

1

1

67 9 Curran Street, McLean (703) 893-0

Murasaki

) 1

24 5 Centreville Road, Herndon (703) 7 3-0088

Kaz Sushi Bistro Miyagi

NW

NW

(202) 363-4453

8

11

2

55

1

More Recommendations

The Best with Tables Bistro Bis

Cafe Atlantico

405 Eighth

Charlie Palmer Steak

Galileo

I

I

2

1

st

1

(202) 66 -2700 1

Street,

1

NW

1

NW

(202) 547-8 00 1

(202) 625-2 50

Street,

1

1

The Kennedy Center Roof Terrace

NW

(202) 393-08

Constitution Avenue,

1

NW (Latham Hotel) Street. NW (202) 293-7 9

M

3000

Citronelle

the Kitchen

in

NW

5 E Street,

1

273

Virginia

New

and

Hampshire Avenues,

(202)416-8555

Maestro

700 Tysons Boulevard (Ritz-Carlton), Tysons Corner (703) 82

Melrose

24th and

-

1

5

1

1

NW (Park Hyatt Hotel) (202) 955-3899 2132 Florida Avenue. NW (202) 462-5 43

M

Restaurant Nora

Streets,

1

The Best Views America 50 Massachusetts Avenue, NE (Union Station) (202) 682-9555 Hotel Washington Roof 515 5th Street, NW (202) 638-5900 6th and H Streets, NW (Hay-Adams Hotel) (202) 638-2570 Lafayette 1

1

New

Heights

23 7 Calvert Street, 1

1811 Columbia Road,

Perry's

Potomack Landing 3000 K

Sequoia

Tony

& Joe's

NW

(202) 234-4

(202) 234-62

1

1

1

Marina Drive, Alexandria (703) 548-0001

I

NW

Street,

3050 K

NW

Street,

The View Steakhouse

(202) 944-4200

NW

(202) 944-4545

1401 Lee Highway (Key Bridge Marriott), Arlington

(703)243-1745

The Best Wine Colvin Run

M

1

20

D.C. Coast

1

11

1

40

Fiore di Luna I

1

NW

(in

the Latham Hotel) (202) 625-2 50 1

K Street, NW (in the Four Points K Street, NW (202) 2 6-5988

Hotel) (202) 589-0699

1

1025-1 Seneca 1

9 5 1

1

Road

NW

2 st Street,

Gerard's Place

Grapeseed

Street,

8045 Leesburg Pike/Route 7,Tysons Corner (703) 356-9500

Corduroy

Galileo

Lists

3000

Citronelle

Seneca Square), Great

(in

(703) 444-4060

5th Street,

1

NW

(202) 737-4445

4865-C Cordell Avenue, Bethesda (30

Inn at Little Washington

Falls

(202) 293-7 9

)

986-9592

1

Middle and Main Streets, Washington.Virginia

(540) 675-3800

Jaleo

7255

480 Seventh

NW (202) 628-7949;

Street,

Woodmont Avenue, Bethesda

(301)91 3-0003

2000 Pennsylvania Avenue,

KInkead's

L'Auberge Chez Francois

Le Paradou

NW

(202)296-7700

322 Springvale Road, Great

678 Indiana Avenue,

NW

Falls

(703) 759-3800

(202) 347-6780

Maestro

700 Tysons Boulevard (Ritz-Carlton),Tysons Corner (703) 82

Melrose

24th and

Obelisk

2029 P

PayaThai

Sam and Seasons

M

Streets,

Street,

N

W

NW

(in

(202) 872-

1

1

80

84 7 Old Courthouse Road,Vienna (703) 883-388 1

Harry's

1

200

1

(202) 944-2000

NW NW

9th Street,

2800 Pennsylvania Avenue,

1

-

1

5

1

the Park Hyatt Hotel) (202) 955-3899

(202) 296-4333

(in

the Four Seasons Hotel)

274

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

The Best Wine

Lists (continued)

801 Pennsylvania Avenue,

Signatures

Taberna del Alabardero Vidalla

Zola

990

1

800

M

776

NW

Street,

F Street,

1

NW

NW (202)628-5900 NW (202) 429-2200

Street,

I

(202) 659- 990 1

(202) 654-0999

Restaurant Profiles **y2

ADDIE'S MODE RN AMERICAN I

I

20 Rockville

1

MODERATE

|

•••

QUALITY

|

Pike, Rockville; (30

)

VALUE

|

••••

|

ZONE OB I

88 -008 1

1

and Sunday When to go Late lunch, mid-week Entree range $9-$27 Payment VISA, MC, AMEX, DC Service rating ***i/2 Friendliness rating **** Parking Free lot Bar Beer and wine Wine selection

Reservations Not

Good Dress Lunch

available Saturday

Casual, informal

Monday-Friday,

I

1

Disabled access Good Customers

:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Saturday,

Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-9:30 Setting and atmosphere

This

is

p.m.; Friday

house turned into a cartoon

rooms

brightly painted primary blue,

and yellow; collections of oddball clocks;

plastic place mats;

coat hooks; and antique stoves as serving tables. actually

come

House

specialties

and Saturday, 5:30-10 p.m.

a simple suburban

fantasy, a family dine-in kitchen of the future past:

red,

Locals, area business

noon-2:30 p.m.

And

doorknobs mounted

as

the simple white oval platters

as a pleasant surprise in this era of florid china. Playful tastes starring

the

likes

cheese (appetizer or entree-sized); seared scallops cous and pesto;

soft-shell crabs

over

linguini;

duck

in

of grilled marinated quail and goat

mango sauce or

black olive cous-

confit with baby beets

and parsnips;

crab cakes over polenta; ostrich with onion compote; cornmeal-crusted oysters with roasted corn and prosciutto; seared tuna with shrimp wontons. Variations of pescado Andalucia, fish (halibut, bass, or

Other recommendations

rockfish) with mussels, potatoes,

shrimp taco

and merguez sausage stew; updated duck cassoulet;

salad; grilled vegetables

Entertainment and amenities Rockville Pike

flavor.

Outdoor

seating (though with a close view of

traffic).

Summary and comments in

with real

the kitchen, and

it

Owners

shows: The food

Jeff is

and Barbara Black are simply having fun

trendy and smart without being overly

showy; flavorings are distinctive but not overwhelming;

When

the urge for comfort food strikes one of them,

pork chops. Lunch

White chili,

Flint Mall

and

Kitchen fully

in

salads.

is

much

Jeff

is

— sandwiches

in

both.

carefully considered.

crowds from

(including a fried oyster sandwich),

usually tending their

Bethesda, both sensibilities

obvious

is

apt to be roast chicken or

simpler, geared to the working/shopping

across the street

Though

salt

it's

new

—the comfy and the

restaurant, Black's Bar iconoclastic

—are

&

delight-

Restaurant Profiles

ANDALE

i^i^Vi

MODERN MEXICAN 40

MODERATE

|

QUALITY ••/2

|

NW; (202)

Seventh Street.

1

275

•••

VALUE

ZONE

|

3

783-3 33; www.andaledc.com 1

When

Reservations Recommended

|

to go Monday nights for wine

specials; Fridays

for bar snacks; otherwise anytime

Entree range $l4-$28 Paynnent VISA, MC.

AMEX. DC, D Service rating

*••

•••*

rating

Friendliness

Metro Bar

Archives/Navy, Memorial/Penn Quarter or Metro Center Parking Valet, pay lots Full

service

Wine

Customers

Good Dress

selection

Locals,

Lunch Monday-Saturday,

I

1

Disabled access Good

Business, casual

embassy/government types, young

tequila sippers

:30 a.m.-3 p.m.

Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5-10

p.m.; Friday

The room

Setting and atmosphere

and Saturday, 5-1

comfy but

is

a

p.m.

I

(intentionally) cartoonish,

little

with big bold primary colors, bouncy booths, and overripe ladies on the wall.

House aged

Grilled lO-ounce porterhouse

specialties

New

York

chop

in

a fruity red

mole sauce;

melted manchego cheese; pan-seared grouper

strip steak with

filet

served over roasted corn puree and sauteed broccoli rabe; leg of lamb rubbed with a paste of red chiles, garlic and oregano; achiote-marinated tuna with sour orange juice.

Other recommendations the

smoked

chipotle

Summary and comments was

it

one of the best

formed the Mark from

town.

Chef Alison Swope has been

New

into

Southwestern

but her interest gradually focused and sharpened on

chic,

explorations of those areas, she abruptly shut

all

into Andale.

down and

in

than a

less

month

trans-

which has quickly become the meeting place of interna-

the Americas, North (and north of the border) to Central and South. vegetarians, too. as there are several veggie

good change of pace for

This makes a

in

regional Mexican cuisine; having turned her daily specials into sequential

contemporary

tionals

sauce of salsa dips,

in

the best; for bar snacking.try the chile-toasted peanuts. Andale

is

also has a collection of fine tequilas,

cuisine since before

a

Of the

Pan-seared shrimp and sea scallops

toasted pumpkin seeds; oozing rellenos; shrimp and chile empenadas.

dishes and meat-free salads and noshes.

•**

ATHENIAN PLAKA GREEK

INEXPENSIVE

|

•••

QUALITY

VALUE

|

•••

ZONE OA I

|

I

7833

Woodmont Avenue,

Bethesda; (30

Reservations Accepted

When

MC.AMEX.

D

VISA,

CB. DC,

Parking Validated, free service

Wine

Customers

Open

)

986- 337 1

1

to go Anytime Entree range $9-$ 6 1

Service rating

valet (weekends)

•••

Payment

•*•

Friendliness rating

Metro Bethesda or

Bar

Medical Center

Full

Good

selection Limited Dress Informal, casual Disabled access

Locals

Monday-Thursday,

II

a.m.- 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday,

II

a.m.-

1

I

p.m.;

Sunday, 10 a.m.- 10 p.m.

Setting and atmosphere

A

quietly

proud

little

dining

room, with fresh

greenery, plaster arches, and vivid travel-mag murals of the

home

country.

linen

and

(In fact,

it

276

Part Eight

Dining and Restaurants

shares ownership with the nearby La Panetteria

House

good weather,

Italian restaurant.) In

on the sidewalk.

tables are set up

Among entrees, veal

specialties

baked with eggplant, wine, and two cheeses;

exohikon (lamb sauteed with artichokes, calamata phyllo); pan-fried

Among

baby squid.

olives,

and cheese, and then baked

appetizers, a combination platter of

calf's

in

liver,

sweetbreads, meatballs, sausage, and lamb (for two); eggplant stuffed with pine nuts, raisins,

and tomato; pan-fried smelt.

Other recommendations feta;

Broiled red snapper; shrimp baked with tomatoes and

swordfish.

Summary and comments this

is

Don't

dishes to order, and they

mean

—

it

it's

the suburban storefront location fool you;

let

not your father's greasy Greek

joint.

a

The

kitchen says

slow, but

little

these dishes are also available at lunch for a couple of dollars

takes time to prepare

it

right.

it's

A

number

surprising

**

AUSTIN GRILL TEX-MEX

INEXPENSIVE

of

less.

|

QUALITY

••Vi

•••

VALUE

|

|

ZONES

3, 5,

I

OA,

I

I

B,

I

I

I

vvww.austingrill.com

750 E Street, NW; (202) 393-3776 2404 Wisconsin Avenue, NW; (202) 337-8080 7278 Woodmont Avenue, Bethesda; (30 ) 656- 366 8430-A Old Keene Mill Center, West Springfield; (703) 644-3 80 King Street, Old Town Alexandria; (703) 684-8969 1

1

1

I

1

1

Reservations For

parties of 10+

1

ness rating

***

Metro

Parking Street Bar access Poor,

Brunch

all

Full

Saturday and Sunday,

Friday and Saturday,

I

I

I

Wine

upstairs I

to go Late afternoon,

selection

Customers

Fair

Dress Casual Disabled

1

a.m.-midnight; Sunday,

Hot adobe

I

I

a friends' franchise:

One

House

specialties

in

Crayola-colored

pastels,

Carnitas (braised pork marinated with

chili;

grilled fish of

"Austin special enchilada" with three sauces; grilled

Other recommendations

1

p.m.;

I

tile,

buffalo and in

funky

not a mom-and-pop

If

who

started at age 19

in

Bethesda. garlic,

peppers and onions); chicken enchiladas with tomatillo sauce; rolled chicken tamales with Texas

1:30 a.m.-

and Tex-Mex pun art and T-shirts

of the original prep cooks

Georgetown became the head chef

I

a.m.-IO:30 p.m.

vinyl-booth roadhouse settings. Great Texas music on the PA. it's

Friendli-

a.m.-3 p.m.

I

lizard stenciling, angular art-joke graphics,

joint,

***

Local, student

1:30 a.m.- 0:30 p.m.;Tuesday-Thursday,

Setting and atmosphere

Entree

late night

DC, D Service rating

Metro Center; (Woodmont Avenue): Bethesda

(E Street):

service

bathrooms are

Lunch/dinner Monday,

When

MCAMEX,

range $7-$ 8 Payment VISA,

oranges

grilled

grilled steak taco;

with

hand-

the day; real all-beef chunky

chili;

fish.

Margaritas; chile-flavored rib eye;

fajita platters;

lime-

marinated chicken breast; barbecued brisket.

Summary and comments these are plain-Jane spots; original

The

in fact,

Georgetown branch made

out back. The hot-hot sauces

—

perfect antidote for designer

chili

cuisine (not that

they're corporate cousins of the slick-chic Jaleo).The its first

friends just

a choice of four

from the smell of the smoker

—were the

local

endorphin

addict's

— 5

Restaurant Profiles

277

drugs before chiles were cool, so to speak. Incidentally, the Springfield location has been

experimenting with serving breakfast, but a

version.

fairly straight

•**

BANGKOK GARDEN INEXPENSIVE

THAI

QUALITY***

|

VALUE****

|

I

4906

St.

Elmo Avenue, Bethesda; (30

) 1

Reservations Accepted on weekends

Parking

Wine

Street, free lot after 7 p.m.; valet

Sunday-Thursday,

I

***'

2

Thursday through Saturday Bar

animals

—

Customers

1

Small, cheery,

I

I

Full

service

Local, ethnic

a.m.-

1

p.m.

I

and so crowded with brass and plaster

temple Foo dogs, peafowl, deer

giraffes, elephants,

Buddha resembles

Fair

1

****

Friendliness rating

a.m.- 0:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday,

I

Setting and atmosphere

OA

to go Anytime Entree range $6-$

rating

selection House Dress Casual Disabled access

Open

I

1

When

Payment VISA, MC.AMEX, D Service

ZONE

|

95 -0670

a Thai St. Francis of Assisi. Enlarged

—

that the enshrined

young

and framed colorful Thai cur-

rency and portraits of the royal family are also prominent.

House

A

specialties

duck

rich, skin-and-fat

in five-flavor

sauce; fat "drunken" noo-

pork and crab appetizer cake); squid with

dles with beef;

hoy jawh

chile (unusual,

almost purely squid and scarce vegetable

(a crispy

filler);

basil

and

the tangy rather than

searing seafood combination.

Other recommendations light

Soft-shell crabs in

one of

one very

five sauces, including

version with asparagus and oyster sauce; steamed crab dumplings; shrimp

chile

in

oil.

Summary and comments with Americans, that

Though

relatively low-profile

amid the Thai

very popular within the Thai community

it's

Is;

restaurant rewards regular attendance and obvious interest because dishes aren't

on the

ticularly delicious sic

that

is

English

example

menu, but are is

slightly flatten

it

mouth. At $8,

it's

some

who knows to

and

be used as the

basil

utensil:

—about

and grasp a bite of meat with

it

a

tablespoon

and pop the whole morsel into your

INEXPENSIVE

irirVi |

QUALITY

I

Reservations Suggested

MCAMEX, DC, D

ing Free

lot

access Good

Open

***

Bar

Full

When

service

Customers

5-

1

|

VALUE

I

***

|

ZONE

Plaza), Rockville;(30l)

I

OB

424-5533

to go Anytime Entree range $9-$ 4 1

Service rating

Monday-Thursday,

p.m.; Sunday,

ask.A par-

a steal of a meal.

855 Rockville Pike (Wintergreen

VISA,

of the best

and served with a steaming basket of "sticky

Take a pinch of rice

BENJARONG THAI

boom

this family-run

the "Thai steak tartare," a beef version of aThai pork clas-

rich with garlic, cilantro,

rice" intended to

anyone

available to

—

Wine

***

Payment

****

Friendliness rating

Park-

selection House Dress Informal Disabled

Local, ethnic 1:30 a.m.- 10 p.m.; Friday

and Saturday,

I

1:30 a.m.- 0:30 1

p.m.

Setting and atmosphere

A

simple but soothing

room decorated

with off-white

grass wallpaper, pink linens, black lacquer chairs, and a few Thai carvings and figurines.

Dining and Restaurants

278

Part Eight

House

specialties

mussels steamed

Duck with asparagus

season); spicy duck and coriander salad;

(in

lemongrass and spices; sliced beef

in

squid sauteed with chiles and

with lime juice and chiles

basil;

—even

Other recommendations

and the best pra

stuffed with

red wine sauce; fresh

—

a sort of squid ceviche

mug

Thai-smart town.

in this

in

delicate scallions and gin-

red curry sauce; red curry duck;

noodles; a rattle-shaped chicken drummette appetizer

chowfoon

ground chicken and pork;

of barbecue beef

filet in

Steamed whole snapper with

ger sauce or crispy fried flounder; spicy shrimp

seafood combination

pla

soft-shell crabs in a choice of sauces;

and a sort

paste with scallions.

in chile

Summary and comments

Benjarong (the name refers to a type of multicolored

Thai porcelain) closed awaiting to Thailand to sharpen their

new

skills.

but the kitchen

digs,

Many of the

staff

used the hiatus for a

trip

dishes here are Southern Thai, meaning

the curries are creamier and there's a good pork satay on the menu. There are also several

good vegetarian

uncertain of spice

choices, including a delicately peppery sauteed watercress.

levels, inquire; this

is

a hospitable and

1

you're

••*

BISTRO BIS MODERATE

FRENCH

If

accommodating establishment.

QUALITY ••'/2

|

|

VALUE ••'/2

|

ZONE

3

I

5 E Street,

NW; (202)

66 -2700; www.bistrobis.com 1

Reservations Recommended

When

to go Late lunch, early or

late

dinner Entree

range $l4-$32 Payment VISA, MC.AMEX, DC, D Service rating *•• Friendliness rating ***i/2 Metro Union Station Parking Valet after 5:30, pay lot Bar Full service

Wine

Customers

Breakfast Every

Brunch

Lunch

Good Dress

selection

day,

Disabled access Good

7-10 a.m.

Saturday and Sunday,

Monday-Friday,

Dinner Every

day,

I

sleek, chic,

I

1

:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

5:30-10:30 p.m.

Setting and atmosphere it's

Business, informal

Political/media biz, food trendies

Its

name

and a touch oblique,

its

is

short for "bistro," and

like

that offhand joke,

long space divided into a series of step-down

semi-detached dining "suites" off a hallway. The dark old Tiber Creek Pub has been

transformed into a very blond-wood and etched-glass complex that

you

feel that

your companions may be

mezzanine with lobby-like

chairs,

bar, cigar-bar

and an almost voyeuristic display of exposed-steel

kitchen countertop. Even the fireplace has changed from

House

somehow makes

you by the hour: zinc-topped

billing

London pubby to

specialties Intriguingly idiosyncratic semi-classic French

tartare topped with cornichon fans and served (appetizers); pan-roasted monkfish

wrapped

on super-crisp

cured

in

ham with

garlic

L.A. clubby.

tangy steak

fare:

potato chips

apples and Calvados;

rabbit with mustard sauce; braised veal short ribs; huge and tender scallops; and the

more

traditional bistro-esque steak

Other recommendations lunchtime. Game specials are

Summary and comments

'n' fries,

sweetbreads, duck

Roast poultry,

in

confit, etc.

generous portions

—

a half-hen even at

carefully tended, too.

"Bis" can also

the second fine production from the team of

this

may be

Buben ofVidalia (see

later in

mean an encore, but while

Sallie

and

Jeff

Restaurant Profiles this section),

resembles that neo-Southern favorite only

it

tional fare as limiting.

The

quantity of food

and the

era, but the delicacy of seasoning

much on

to leave cially

is

staff's light

the plate. The all-French wine

list

in this

hand with

some

has

business-expense

rich sauces

make

fine bargains

beyond the warhorse burgundy or

for those willing to look

to see tradi-

in its refusal

not so unusual

on

1

24

MODERATE

M

Street.

|

NW; (202)

VALUE

|

•••

When

Reservations Recommended

service

Wine

ZONES

|

338-3830 to go Pre- or post-theater Entree range

$l5-$26 Brunch $20 Payment VISA, MC, AMEX,

***

Friendliness rating

hard

espe-

irirVi

QUALITY •*':

I

3

it

it,

chablis labels.

BISTRO FRANq:AIS FRENCH

279

Parking Street

DC

•••

Service rating

(validated parking for

selection House Dress Casual Disabled access

two hours) Bar

Full

Good Customers

Local, ethnic

Open

Every

Brunch

day,

Sunday

I

I

a.m.-

I

a.m.

1

a.m.^

I

p.m.

Setting and atmosphere

ware, and clanking trays.

House cially

This old reliable hasn't changed

was new to Washington

"bistro"

specialties

Dover

sole,

This

is

Other recommendations which

all

menus

Summary and comments and the especially

times seems as

menu

game

steak

'n'

—

espe-

or lamb with artichokes.

birds,

here

fries

is

daily specials are

probably the standard

is

if

for $20, including wine.

For

all

telling fact that

its

feeling a

is

many

many

this old favorite gets

fashionable crowds, and

little

pleasures

—

local chefs eat

famous

its

late-night serv-

here after-hours

MODERATE

QUALITY

|

I

—

it

some-

the Rodney Dangerfield treatment from the

bedraggled

in

response.

***

& KITCHEN

BLACK'S BAR SEAFOOD

The

flat-

others should be measured. And there are fixed-price lunch, $15, and

pre-theater fixed dinner

ice

—the

signature spit-roasted chicken

confit, roast

word

since the

right.

the sort of place where as nice as the

vin, its

even better: for instance, duck

against

much

pots, rotisserie spits, frankly well-used

other words, just

In

coq au

— hanging

••••

|

VALUE****

|

ZONE OA I

7750 Woodmont Avenue, Bethesda; (301) 652-6278 Reservations Recommended

ment

VISA,

DC

MC, AMEX.

Metro Bethesda Parking tion

Good house

list

Pay

Dress

When

to go Anytime Entree range $l6-$26 Pay-

Service rating lot,

***

street meters, valet

Business, casual

Friendliness rating ***i/2

Bar

Full

service

Wine

Disabled access Yes Customers

selecLocal,

business

Lunch Monday-Friday. :30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner Sunday-Thursday. 5-10 p.m.; Friday and I

1

Setting and atmosphere cleaned up from

its

A

Saturday. 5-1

I

funky/fun version of a Gulf Coast

p.m. fish

house, but a

little

previous bayou/garage-chic incarnation: raw bar attached to the

main bar and couch-slouch cocktail area; not too many fish-decor jokes and a

partially

280

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

glassed-off dining

room; also a second-story deck for good weather.

specialties "Campeche," a sort of crab-shrimp ceviche but served parfait-style

House

New

with tomatoes and avocado;

and cheese

(all

appetizers);

duck breast with cheese

Orleans chopped salad with roasted corn and

fried crav/fish tails; braised

sweet potatoes topped with

homemade

grilled

duck enchilada with poblanos

seafood sausage with shaved fennel

salad; crispy

grits.

Other recommendations ceviche du jour; and a huge

Crabcakes; tequila-cured salmon;

grilled

shaved calamari;

de mer latter at $ 9 for two or $36 for four. At happy

fruits

1

hour, oysters and shrimp are extra-cheap.

Summary and comments

Black (see

Jeff

for Addie's, above) and executive

listing

chef David Craig range across and around the Gulf Coast for recipe ideas, saluting Mexico,

New

Orleans, San Luis Pass, TX, Siesta Key, FL, Perdido Beach, AL, and the

Atchafalaya River Basin, until

l_A.

not the sort of place that seems ground-breaking

It's

becomes one of your

it

BOMBAY BISTRO INDIAN

INEXPENSIVE

.

**V2

QUALITY

|

.

regular stops.

•••

|

••••

VALUE

|

ZONES JOB,

MB

I

98 West Montgomery Avenue, Rockville; (301) 762-8798 3570 Chain Bridge Road, Fairfax; (703) 359-58 10; vvww.bombaybistro.com Reservations Not accepted 1

***

Metro

When

to go

MCAMEX, DC, D

$7-$ 7 Payment VISA,

(Rockville) Rockville

Early evening, lunch buffet

Service rating

Parking Free

tion House Dress Casual Disabled access Yes

Lunch Fairfax:

Rockville:

Monday-Friday,

Monday-Friday,

Dinner

Rockville:

I

I

I

lot

Entree range

**• Friendliness rating

Bar Beer and wine Wine

Customers

selec-

Local, ethnic, business

a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, noon-3 p.m.;

1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Saturday

and Sunday, noon-3 p.m.

Sunday-Thursday, 5-9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5-10 p.m.;

Fairfax:

Sunday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5-1 0:30 p.m.

Setting and atmosphere in

Rockville's storefront family-style diner

is

made cheery

an almost Christmasy way, with red and green native costumes and gilded slippers

hung on the wall along with offshoot

House

is

specialties

varieties of freshly

and

pilaf

strings of stuffed birds

Its

newer

puri;

Thai vegetarian and non-vegetarian; traditional platters of three

cooked vegetables or chicken and lamb curry with

Tandoori chicken

hottest item on the menu;

or,

Goan

lentils, raita, rice

even better, tandoori salmon; lamb vindaloo, the

fish

curry with a golden sauce; many fine vegetarian

choices; mild chicken tikka or spicy chicken madras; lentil

above wooden booths.

equally simple and comfy.

oothapam

(a

South India "crepe" of

and rice dough, stuffed with onions, tomatoes, and green peppers).

Other recommendations biryani;

whole Maryland

Lamb rogan

rockflsh marinated

Summary and comments

josh or shish kebab; chicken or vegetable in

yogurt, ginger, garlic, and spices.

Located among the

lavs^ers'

warrens of

historic

Rockville, this squeeze-'em-in eatery started out as an Indians' Indian lunch spot, but

the

word

leaked out.

Now, even with three or

four cooks working, you

wait at dinner for a table at the original location, which

is

may have to

the second good reason to go

for the all-you-can-eat lunchtime buffet (at both branches). The first

good reason

is

the

Restaurant Profiles price: ter.

281

$7 on weekdays and $9 on weekends. Meanwhile, the cooking keeps getting bet-

Preview the restaurant

at

www.bombaybistro.com. Note; The owners

upscale regional Indian restaurant

also

BURMESE

the

***

BURMA INEXPENSIVE

QUALITY

|

I

740 Sixth

own

Cleveland Park, Indigue (below).

in

Street,

•••

|

•••

VALUE

NW (upstairs); (202) 638-

|

ZONE

3

280

1

Reservations Accepted When to go Anytime Entree range $6-$8 PaymentVISA, MC. AMEX, DC. D Service rating •••'2 Friendliness rating ••• Metro Gallery Place/Chinatown

Dress

Casual, informal

Parking Street Bar Beer and wine Wine selection House

Disabled access Yes, but

call

ahead Custonners Ethnic South

Asian, local, tourist

Lunch Monday-Friday, Dinner Every

day,

I

I

a.m.-3 p.m.

6-10 p.m.

A

Setting and atmosphere

modest and unobtrusive second-floor warren with

only a handful of native art on the walls to advertise

House

its

ethnicity.

specialties Kaukswe thoke, a tangy noodle dish with ground shrimp, cilantro,

red pepper, and peanuts; pickled green tea-leaf salad, a slightly sour, spicy slaw with

caramelized onions and peanuts dressed

tofu-and-shrimp

lions; a chile-spiked

in

a green tea pesto; squid with

stir-fry;

ham and

seal-

and an almost soul-food version of mus-

tard greens with shrimp, pork, or chicken.

Other recommendations

Gold

fingers, strips of squash-like calabash in a

peppery

dipping sauce; chile- and mango-flavored pork; a macrobiotic delight of substantial dried tofu with cruciferous veggies; roast

Summary and comments

duck (requires 24 hours'

Using familiar ingredients from any Asian grocery,

Burmese holdout manages to turn out tives:

not so "fishy" (no fermented less purely

tea and

smoke background call

fish

flavors surprisingly distinct

in

is

unlocked. Incidentally, this place

years. And

MCI Centre/Shakespeare Theatre

the

it's

fast

—one

is

a

of the best pre-

circuiL

BUSARA THAI

this

near rela-

of classic Chinese and Japanese cuisine. Disabled patrons

remarkable bargain: Prices haven't changed in

its

sauce or soy) or seafood-conscious as Viet-

ahead to make sure the elevator

concert stops

from

peppery and more sour-tangy than Thai, and with the concentrated

namese,

should

notice).

iririrVi

INEXPENSIVE

QUALITY

|

I

•••

|

VALUE

•••

|

ZONES

5.

MA

2340 Wisconsin Avenue, NW; (202) 337-2340 8 42 Watson Street. McLean; (703) 356-2288; www.busara.com 1

Reservations Recommended

When

to go Before 7:30 p.m. or

after 9:30 p.m.

Entree range $7-$ 7; market price higher PaymentVISA, MC.AMEX, DC, D Service rating ***i/2 Friendliness rating *** Parking Street, lot, valet after 6 p.m. 1

Bar Full tomers

Lunch

service

Wine

selection

Fair

Dress

Informal

Disabled access

No Cus-

Local, ethnic

Georgetown and McLean: Monday-Friday,

I

1

:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday,

282

I

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

1:30 a.m.—4 p.m.

Georgetown: Sunday-Thursday, 5-10:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5-1

Dinner

McLean: Sunday-Thursday, 5-10:30

Setting and atmosphere

p.m.; Friday

These Thai

and Saturday, 5-1

flame-streaked tabletops looks as

if it

steel, slate,

were created by

p.m.

and cheekily mod-

siblings are aggressively

decor of molded hard black rubber, brushed

ern. The

I

p.m.

I

and heavily lacquered

former hot rod customizer

a

not to mention the ice-blue neon overhead ("busara" means "blue topaz") and post-

Pop

Outside, a partially covered patio curves around a miniature, but elegant,

art.

Japanese garden with a fountain. The Tysons Corner branch

House

Kanom

specialties

is

even brighter

Jeeb (steamed pork, crabmeat dumplings served with a

Thai soy sauce), crispy fried soft-shell crabs topped with a choice of chile and

mushrooms, or

black beans and

garlic,

quail with asparagus

onion and curry; roasted

celery,

and oyster sauce; cellophane noodles with three kinds of mushrooms; marinated pork

tomato-peanut sauce and a chile-spiked vinegar

satay with both a

Thai bouillabaisse

coconut

in

milk; country-style

Other recommendations thai; soft-shell

dip;

duck

red curry;

in

lamb curry.

Tiger shrimp grilled over watercress; vegetarian pad

crabs and whole flounder.

The Tysons branch

has a

that turns out

grill

chicken, lean pork, and assorted fresh fish and shellfish as well.

Summary and comments tation as

that

much

These are Siamese

makes them

crisp

and

filling.A

symbols next to menu items are to the

there

more is

no

familiar stars),

MSG

in

wide variety of

fairly reliable

represented (the chile-pod

and extra sauces or peppers are easy to obtain. Even

|

NW; (202)

393-08 2

nicer,

When

mentVISA,MC,AMEX,DC Service ing Street; valet at dinner, $10

Bar

|

VALUE

•**

Monday-Friday,

I

Setting and atmosphere

p.m.; Friday

A very

ZONES

I

1:30 a.m.- 1:30 p.m.

and Saturday, 5-1

stylish salon, like

and vibrant

paintings,

••* Park-

Wine Spectotor Award

Local, ethnic

1:30 a.m.-2.30 p.m.; Saturday,

tor: brilliant fabrics, large

|

Friendliness rating

service Wine selection

Dress Casual Disabled access Good Customers

Dinner Sunday-Thursday, 5-10

••••

to go Anytime Entree range $9-$25 Pay-

rating

Full

•***

.

1

Reservations Recommended

Lunch

is

anything.

|

Street,

spicing

for gauging heat; the Tysons branch sticks

CAFE ATLANTICOIMINIBAR QUALITY •••• MODERATE NUEVO LATINO 405 Eighth

on presen-

grins with the emphasis

and a lightened-up attitude toward greens and veggies

as preparation

the

I

living

loft-like

p.m.

room

of an art collec-

balconies

mosaics, and richly oiled wood. The clientele tends to match the decor

and windows,

—very

vibrant,

very "on," and frequently very loud.

House

specialties

with banana

leaf

ternut squash,

Jerk quail with plantain "foam" and pigeon peas; grilled salmon

goat cheese packets and wild mushrooms; seared sea bass with but-

lentils

and chorizo stew; roast rabbit with apples, potatoes and onions

in

red wine-coconut sauce.

Other recommendations The

Saturday "Latin dim sum" brunch, with 25-30 tapas-

— Restaurant Profiles sized dishes for

$25-$35

283

(deluxe); or pre-theater dinner, $22.

Summary and comments

Cafe Atlantico

riding

is

two waves

at once: location

and

cuisine. In the heart of the arts-intelligentsia

neighborhood around the Shakespeare The-

atre and Lansburg Building,

major restaurant

also the first

it's

New

cocina nueva, the Latin version of

Continental

sented, and, depending on your perspective, less

—

area to specialize

in this

in

lighter fare, nnore fashionably pre-

homey and more expensive

than the

Central and South American originals. Founding chef Jose Andres Ramon, winner of

numerous awards, has designed the menus well. This

really

is

but Minibar

two

—

a five

is

restaurants

in

you're into the

if

Catalonian star chef Ferran Adria,

most

Ramon

new Oyamel

playful cooking. Inspired

by

is

his

as

a three star,

New

mentor,

has designed, or rather deconstructed, such

wrapped

dishes as foie gras; "cappucino"

for Jaleo, Zaytina, and the

one, and frankly, the four-star rating

in

cotton candy; gazpacho "poppers;" and

cherry tomatoes on a needle of mozzarella cream to be shot into your mouth

—up to

30 mini-courses, all laboriously prepared by on-site chef Katsuya Fukushima.

CAFE DIVAN TURKISH

irirVi

INEXPENSIVE

QUALITY

|

I

1

**

834 Wisconsin Avenue, N W; (202)

Reservations

range $5-$ 6 1

1/2

VALUE ***!/2

|

ZONE

|

3

338- 747 1

When to go Thursdays for whole marinated rotisserie Entree Payment VISA, MC Service rating **** Friendliness rating

Helpful

**** Parking Street Bar License pending Wine selection License pending Dress Business, casual

Disabled access Good Customers

homesick Middle Eastern

Locals,

diplomats

Open

Monday-Friday,

I

a.m.-IO:30 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday,

I

A

Setting and atmosphere corner, with

House

I

a.m.-l

I

p.m.

remarkably (and unusually) bright and sunny triangular

windows winging out on both

ing, Turkish tile,

I

sides,

with polished Brazilian cherry floor-

and pomegranate accents. Eggplant-smothered lamb shank; the mezze platter of

specialties

feta,

hum-

mus, taramasalata, and stuffed grape leaves. Donner kebab, the thin-sliced layers of marinated lamb and veal alternately rolled

Turkish restaurants, but here

it's

Other recommendations

Summary and comments

is

a

weekend

(Turkish

flatbread

While not the most accessible

Georgetown

rife

is

— Cafe Divan

pizza)

has

in

|

325

1

Prospect Street,

with

and

terms of location

made

itself

a

neighborhood favorite by

oily standards.

***

CAFE MILANO MODERATE

topped

with restaurants and diners (and resi-

beyond the

dint of cheery service and Turkish fare far

I

most

to Eastern Asia); a lamb and chicken kebab combo.

dents) struggling for parking

ITALIAN

special at

a variety of toppings; manti (the beef-stuffed

common

the busy stretch of upper

a spit and grilled,

Slahmacun

chopped lamb and tomatoes or yogurt-topped dumplings

on

available at every meal.

QUALITY

••••

NW; (202)

VALUE

|

••••

|

ZONES

333-6 83; www.cafe-mllano.com 1

284

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

Reservations

Helpful

When

to go Late lunch,

late

Entree range $l4-$37

dinner

rating ***i/2 Friendliness rating

Payment VISA, MC, AMEX, DC Service ***i/2 Parking

Street, pay lots

ness, hip informal

Disabled access Through rear entrance Custonners

Bar

Lunch Every day, :30 a.m.^ p.m. Dinner Monday,Tuesday,and Sunday,4-I I

Brunch

Sunday,

I

Wine

service

Full

selection

Good Dress Local,

1

I

p.m.;Wednesday-Saturday,4 p.m.-midnight

a.m.-3 p.m.

I

Setting and atmosphere A cross between a haute couturier's salon and a Milan with a subway Cid, too

(all

map

Busi-

embassy

painted on the ceiling

—and new

a portrait of Placido

disco,

Domingo

as El

of which makes for interesting philosophical speculation on the direction

Italian interests

owner

have taken since the days of the Sistine Chapel). At Bice, where

Franco Nuschese was manager, the shadowboxes held wallpaper samples; here they

frame the even hip-jokier designer to be wearing one

—and

ers.There's a terrace for

House

ties

—presumably from

his closet, as

warm-weather

he never seems

named

limited-edition scarves.And the pastas are

after design-

dining and a prettier-than-usual long bar.

Ravioli Cavalli (veal-and-spinach-stuffed ravioli in a butter sage

specialties

sauce with shaved porcini mushroom); zucchini-and-basil-filled half-moon pasta with fresh

air-dried ricotta cheese; assorted grilled seafood, calamari,

tomato

shrimp and turbot with lemon, olive

cuttlefish,

steaks and chops with real tle pizzas,

and

lighter

Italian flavor,

oil

Mediterranean

and arugula; and for the

courses are available

EXPENSIVE

|

1819 Columbia Road,

NW;

•••

VALUE

|

•••

|

ZONE 6

(202) 797- 1819

When to go Anytime Entree range $ 9-$30 PayMCAMEX Service rating *** Friendliness rating **** Metro

Reservations Recommended

ment

VISA,

1

Woodley Park/Zoo/Adams-Morgan Parking

Good Dress Business, Customers Locals, foodies selection

casual

Street, pay lot

Sunday,

Dinner

Tuesday, 5:30- 10 p.m. ;Wednesday-Saturday, 5:30-

A

neighborhood that draws

House

little

Wine

service

its

p.m.; Sunday,

I

Ann Cashion and John

clientele

from

5:30- 10 p.m.

Fulchino)

in

a multi-ethnic

and wide (and young and

far

pricey for the area (which, admittedly,

specialties

1

deliberately low-key, upscale family-style cafe (see the

black-and-white photos of partners

a

Full

1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

I

Setting and atmosphere

it's

Bar

Disabled access Not wheelchair accessible

Brunch

though

lit-

***y2

QUALITY

|

light

late.

CASHION'S EAT PLACE NEW SOUTHERN

big boys,

no Chicago nakedness.There are even

Saddle of rabbit stuffed with veal,

is

old),

even

rapidly yuppifying).

ham and

truffles;

braised pork

with greens; duck confit; fried sweetbreads over spinach; duck with foie gras.

Other recommendations

Roast

free-range

chicken;

curried

mussels;

fried

seafood; almost any pork dish.

Summary and comments

Ann Cashion, a

Mississippi native, has

ern cuisine-at-the-crossroads establishment a showplace for ing that all

she sees

seasonal,

all

it

as the

American version of an

straight-forward, but continental

Italian trattoria:

in

made

new Southern all

this

South-

fare,

mean-

regional produce,

terms of combing ingredients

—the

Restaurant Profiles cornbread and wild mushrooms, the rabbit with

and plenty of vegetables, a

truffles,

ury oddly missing from many Washington plates. Note; The "seasonal" seriously. Cashion

Award

one of Washington's

is

285

menu changes

several

regional

lux-

so take

daily,

James Beard

winners.

CITRONELLE FRENCH

(aka Michael Richard's Citronelle) iriririrVi

VERY EXPENSIVE

••••

QUALITY

|

I

M

Latham Hotel, 3000

Reservations Required $l2-$38;

When

prix-fixe dinner.

**'2 Friendliness

NW; (202)

Street,

VALUE **'/2

to go Lunch, before 9 p.m. Entree range Lunch,

***

rating

ZONES

|

1

MC.AMEX, DC, D Service

$125 Payment VISA,

Parking Valet Bar

Wine Spectator Award Dress Jackets

tomers

|

625-2 50

Full

service

Wine

rating

selection

Disabled access Excellent Cus-

at dinner

Local, tourist, business

Breakfast Every

Brunch

1

day,

6:30-10:30 a.m.

0:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. on Easter, Mother's Day, and Thanksgiving

Lunch Monday-Friday, noon-2

p.m.

Dinner Sunday-Thursday, 6:30-10 Setting and atmosphere

p.m.; Friday,

6:30- 0:30 p.m.; Saturday, 6- 0:30 p.m. 1

Using a series of small

1

level shifts

the designers of this pretty but not shov/y establishment have

both intimate and expansive. The upstairs lounge

and cutaway

made

classic flannel

is

ceilings,

the space

seem

grey and green; the

downstairs rooms have a more classic look. Clearly, the star attractions are the

exposed kitchen and

its

six chefs,

sometimes unreasonably

on,

House

Although

specialties

—and the show does go

two preppers, and

salad chef

slowly. listed as

French because of Chef Michel Richard,

this

could just as well be called "Modern American," "eclectic," or simply flamboyant. Among greatest inspirations have been a faux osso bucco with veal cheeks and a potato

his

"bone"; rabbit-and-foie gras-stuffed cannelloni; cuttlefish "fettucine" with baby beets;

sweetbread and

foie gras sausage; a very nutrition-of-the-millenium fricassee of

sweet-

breads, snails, and soybeans; rabbit puzzle dishes mixing loin, limb, and rack of ribs;

sauteed foie gras; braised veal

various forms.

in

Summary and comments flagship

and he

intended), and

in

is

certainly

many ways

LA.

now made

star chef Michel Richard has

among Washington

Big

personal playground. Inspired by-and

his

this his

(no physical insult

Five chefs

in

turn inspir-

ing-other creative and engaging chefs including the Minibar's Jose Andres and Maestro 's FabioTrabocchi, when

it's

the six-course tasting

menu

good,

—

if

it's

very very good. Real food-mag addicts should go for

they can write off the tab.

****

COLVIN RUN TAVERN MODERN AMERICAN

|

EXPENSIVE

|

QUALITY

•••

'/a

|

VALUE

•••

|

ZONE

MA

8045 Leesburg Pike.Tysons Corner; (703): 356-9500 Reservations Recommended $2 -$37 1

rating

When

to go Lunch, early dinner Entree range

Payment VISA, MCAMEX, DC, D Service

****

Parking Valet Bar

Business, Friday casual

Full

service

Wine

rating

**••

selection Very

Friendliness

Good Dress

Disabled access Good Customers Local power lunchers.

286

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

business diners, platinum card romantics

Lunch

Monday-Friday,

I

1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-

and Saturday, 5:30- 0:30

p.m.; Friday

1

p.m.; Sunday,

1

5-9 p.m. Setting and atmosphere

This

decor areas and menu items. place

is

It's

an unobstrusively good-looking restaurant, with a

fire-

the lounge and a gracious marble bar (which wraps around the wine room) and

in

those "regional" touches (flagstone a

something of a concept restaurant, where four

— Nantucket, the Shenandoah, Charleston, and Maine—are each represented by

regions

welcome

relief,

actually.This

in

the Shenandoah,

but decor

etc.),

background

is

peak

a very busy neighborhood, so expect to adjust to

is

hours.

House

The menu changes almost

specialties

constantly, but look for such offerings

as squab with potato gnocchi; Zinfandel-braised short ribs; veal cheeks; stuffed leg of

lamb rolled to the table and

and similar cart service for venison, rack of

sliced;

veal,

lamb, and so on, depending on the market.

Other recomnnendatlons

Pan-roasted

seared

rockfish;

with

scallops

sherry-

lemon; crispy sweetbreads; rabbit-foie gras terrine, and rabbit with sweetbreads. changes

Menu

or often.

daily

A number of food

Summary and comments

and wine publications,

in

and outside

the area, have taken note of Colvin Run as one ofWashington's best newer restaurants,

and with reason.

It's

the second child of chef

downtown. And while he sous-chef

Kinkead's territory),

is

not

Gaetjen,

Jeff

he keeps a close eye on

Bob Kinkead of the eponymous Kinkead's

the kitchen (and

in

quite

is

in

fact the

menu, under former

being

different,

heavy

in

CORDUROY MODERN AMERICAN

iri^i^Vi |

EXPENSIVE

Four Points Hotel, 120!

K

VISA,

Parking

|

QUALITY

NW; When to

Street,

•••

|

VALUE

•••

|

ZONE

MA

(202) 589-0699

go Anytime Entree range $I6-$4I PayMC, AMEX, D Service rating ***i/2 Friendliness rating ****

Reservations Recommended

ment

carno-

quality.

Street, pay lots, valet

Business, Friday casual

Bar

Full

service

Wine

selection Very good Dress

Disabled access Good Customers Business, food-conscious

commuters Breakfast Monday-Friday, 6:30-10:30

Lunch Dinner

and Sunday, 7-1

Sunday-Friday, 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Saturday, 5:30-1

Setting and atmosphere accents

House coulis;

a.m.; Saturday

I

a.m.

Every day, noon-2:30 p.m.

— but

Dark and earthy

I

p.m.

— mahogany with wheat and eggplant

hospitable, with views of the kitchen and the bar to provide bustle.

specialties

Goat cheese

in

potato-crust tarte over roasted red pepper

pan-seared halibut with corn and chanterelles; buffalo with

mushroom

ravioli;

wild striped bass with chanterelles and Chinese long beans.

Other recommendations

Soft-shell crabs

and tangy unripe grapes; veal cheeks

osso bucco; roast duck breast with turnips, bok choy and

Summary and comments

fig

sauce.

Chef Tom Power has been through the kitchens of

Cit-

1

Restaurant Profiles ronelle and the

Old Angler's

but seems most at

Inn,

and seasonal ingredients to good

local

ington

—and even

more

his

so they're easy for

all

effect

—

home

thankfully, a

menu

bar

is

K

1

Street.

Reservations

menu

diners, the bar

few

ranges from

(Note that weekend

pastas.

**i/2 |

MODERATE

NW; (202) A

uses

Wash-

in

only.)

MODERN AMERICAN 40

own menu. He

COAST

D.C.

1

his

growing movement

elaborate dishes have a becoming modesty of presentation,

comers to accept. For solo

casual salads to a nice lobster salad sandwich and a

lunch

with

287

QUALITY***

|

VALUE***

|

ZONE

|

3

2 6-5988; www.dccoast.com

virtual necessity

When

to go Late lunch, dinner Entree range

$l4-$30 PaymentVISA,MC,AMEX, DC, D,T Service rating ***'/2 Friendliness

****

rating pay lots

Bar

Metro McPherson Square Parking Valet service

Full

Wine

abled access Good Customers Business,

Lunch Monday-Friday,

I

light tourists,

minimum),

after 5 p.m. ($5

Good Dress

selection Very

Business, informal Dis-

better convention

1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10:30

p.m.; Friday

and Saturday, 5:30-1

p.m.; Sunday,

I

closed.

Setting and atmosphere

The

restaurant's

name

is

a sort of joke

previous stints at Washington's "waterfront" River Club,

The decor

is

a

New

on chef Jeff Tunk's

Orleans, and San Diego.

low-key pun to match, with a bronze mermaid, a gently

rolling ceiling

(the curl of which allows mezzanine diners a view of the bar and kitchen

staff),

fan-

pleated sconces that could have been Neptune's cockle shells, and huge oval mirrors that

make the

House ters

topped with

saute;

tuna

reflected customers

menu

specialties The

The wine

and out of your imagination.

—

fresh half-shelled oys-

and sake; smoked lobster finished with a soy

halibut; lobster bisque

list is

in

Calypso as the mermaid

a sorbet of pickled ginger

mushroom-crusted

ravioli.

seem to swim as

is

with lobster-stuffed dumplings; fresh

interesting and moderately priced, and the wines by the

and refreshing.

glass are blessedly unpredictable

Other recommendations

and crab cakes; cornmeal-fried oysters.

Soft-shell crabs

Summary and comments

This-smart-but-not-showy

between two booming neighborhoods

—the

revived

the reviving Convention Center/MCI Centre area

restaurant

downtown

—and on the

is

balanced

business district and

14th Street "fault line"

of eateries drawing trend-sawy young types with expense accounts. Even better, llght-and-light alternative to

chophouses. For a quick

downtown's preponderance of

spiritual

pick-me-up, caviar by the ounce

is

i^i^irVi

MODERN AMERICAN

|

MODERATE

8 8 Connecticut Avenue,

ment VISA, MCAMEX, DC Farragut

Wine

selection

|

QUALITY

NW; (202)

Reservations Recommended

Metro

a

available at the bar.

EQUINOX 1

it's

and big-beef

rich sauces

When

****

331-81

18;

|

VALUE ***i/2

ZONE

3

to go Lunch Entree range $l8-$33 Pay-

Service rating

****

Friendliness rating

North or McPherson Square Parking Valet,

Good Dress

|

wvvw.equinoxrestaurant.com

Business, casual

street

Bar

Full

**** service

Disabled access Good Customers

288

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

Foodies, business

Lunch

Monday-Friday,

I

1

:30 a.m.-2 p.m.

Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10

p.m.; Friday

and Saturday, 5:30-10:30

p.m.; Sunday,

5-9 p.m. Setting and atmosphere

The best

thing about the decor at Equinox

is its

unob-

trusiveness: smart tailored shades of charcoal and matte metal like a chalk-stripe suit. (Actually,

The

good metaphor

a

it's

Todd Gray's polished and

for chef

glass-walled sidewalk area

reticent technique.)

though better

particularly popular,

is

the evening,

in

after the rush-hour traffic slows.

House

"Barbecued salmon" with roasted sweet corn, Spanish peppers

specialties

and backyard

sauteed spinach and shallots; foie gras with rhubarb compote; lamb

basil;

shank paired with

loin

and pumpkin bread pudding; soft-shelled crabs over fresh veg-

etable julienne; peanut-crusted pork tenderloin with braised rappahannock greens,

sweet onion and cider pork

free-range chicken breast with carmelized arti-

jus; grilled

choke hearts, preserved lemon and nicoise

Other recommendations

The

olives; grilled quail.

dishes on the chef's six-course tasting meal

were

not on the menu, but they became such an open secret, and so popular, that Equinox

now

serves only fixed price

menus

at dinner: three-, four-,

or six-courses for $55-$85

without wines.

Summary and comments

Chef-owner Todd Gray spent many years

on-site chef at Galileo, and that kitchen's consistently excellent reputation heavily

on

work

his

(in fact, his

leaving in part forced Galileo

honcho Roberto Donna to

rededicate himself to the art of cooking as well as restauranteering). out, however, that

now

that he has his

which he performed under Jean-Louis

own

head, he's not cooking

Palladin),

but what he

heavy on fresh seafood and updated Chesapeake Bay quently, but

in

gated to the

calls

flavors.

It

must be pointed

Italian

The menu changes

side; light

sauces based on reductions and natural flavors; and a fondness

is

also overseeing in

—see the examples

development of the tony Salamander

Inn and Sheila

Middleburg.Virginia.

ETRUSCO

i^ifVi

MODERATE

j

I

1

606 20th

Street,

Q UALITY • ••

N W; (202)

Reservations Recommended

ment

VISA,

fre-

general, expect vegetables to be incorporated into the recipes, not rele-

Johnson resort complex

ITALIAN

(or French,

mid-Atlantic regional,

for contrasting sweet and sour or rich and acid within a single dish

above. Gray

as the

depended

MC, AMEX,

Metro Dupont

Circle

DC

VALUE

|

ZONE 6

|

667-0047

When

to go Anytime Entree range $ 5-$23 Pay1

Service rating

Parking Valet Bar

Business, dressy, dressy casual

••

Full

***

service

Friendliness rating

Wine

selection

Disabled access Good Customers

***

Good Dress

Locals, business,

foodies, food pros

Dinner Monday-Saturday, 5:30-10 Setting and atmosphere wing,

smooth

House

A

p.m.

cool townhouse-turned-palazzo with conservatory

plaster arches, zabaglione-yellow paint, and lurking plants.

specialties

Chargrilled fresh

pardelle with duck ragu (a signature);

fish;

warm

raw fennel and blood orange

salad; pap-

baby octopus salad with potatoes, match-

289

Restaurant Profiles stick

green beans, and black

olives; grilled squid;

Other recommendations

Ribolitta;

bread-crusted tuna with

basil

puree.

white wine osso buco (another signature);

rockfish.

Summary and comments preeminent chefs:At sistible

I

Tuscan cuisine. His

Chef-owner Francesco

he and

Ricchi,

fine

Ricchi

is

one of Washington's

broke ground with simple and

his fornner wife

irre-

and unfussy technique makes ingredients speak for

themselves, and they do. splendidly. Even risotto remembers

dignity here, neither

its

mushy nor over-sauced.

FOUR

VIETNA MESE

|

INEXPENSIVE

6769 Wilson Boulevard,

QUALITY

|

Falls

Reservations Recommended

•••

*•••

Parking Free

When

••••

ZONE

|

MB

lot

to go Late lunch-early dinner, anytime Entree

AMEX

••*•

Service rating

Friendliness

Bar Beer and wine Wine selection House Dress

Good Customers Area

Business casual, casual Disabled access lies,

VALUE

|

Church; (703) 538-6717

range $6-$25 Payment VISA, MC, rating

***

(HUONG QUE)

SISTERS

foodies, ethnic fami-

locals

Sunday-Thursday, 10:30 a.m.- 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday. 10:30 a.m.-

Open

Setting and atmosphere establishments

in

may seem to be

This

the Eden Center, but

Vietnamese customers proves

it. It

it is

first

just

among

p.m.

I

one of the many Vietnamese

peers, and

may be crowded, but

1

it's

its

high percentage of

incredibly cheery, with kids

staring into the tanks of live fish and baby frogs and the tables bright with tree orchids.

House

The

specialties

sliced rare beef salad,

salad with shrimp

classic

Vietamese banquet dish beef seven ways, including

fondue and steamed meatballs; roast

quail; a

shredded vegetable

and pork; steamed baby clams with minced pork, lime and sesame

crackers for scooping; whole steamed black cod. with that layer of fat to keep

Other recommendations

Unusually

moist.

it

spring rolls with herbs for wrapping

light

instead of lettuce; sea bass

in

black beans; crisp stir-fried asparagus; lightly curried frog's

beef

in

grape leaves; caramelized

legs in season; grilled

catfish;

pork or squid with sour

cabbage.

Summary and comments

For years

this

so because the owners of the five-star Inn at

Monday, their night non-famous.

down it's

the recipes

more than

mom-and-pop

more

and have dinner here; but

(they'll

a foodies' insider favorite, the

Washington used to drive in fact it's just

in

more every

as hospitable to the

condescend to non-ethnic diners by changing or dumbing

it

show you how

just the four sisters;

joint to the

long and a mix of is

off.

Nor does

was

Little

it's

to eat the trickier dishes). Despite the name,

their

max.The menu

more and

is

two brothers and

their parents as well, a

almost intimidating, more than 200 entries

less familiar dishes,

but

it's

hard to go wrong;

all

the family

than happy to advise you.

*^

GABRIEL N UEVO LATINO

|

MODERATE

QUALITY

|

Radisson Barcelo Hotel, 2 2 1

1

••

P Street.

|

VALUE

•••

N W; (202)

|

ZONE 6

956-6690

Reservations Recommended When to go Brunch, happy hour Entree range $8-$25

290

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

Payment VISA, MC.AMEX, DC, D Service Metro Dupont

Good

Parking

Circle

***

rating **i/2 Friendliness rating

Street, hotel valet

Bar

Full

and affordable Dress Business, casual Disabled access

Wine

service

selection

Good Customers

Busi-

ness, local

Breakfast Monday-Friday, 6:30-10:30

Brunch

Sunday,

I

Dinner Tuesday-Thursday, 6-10 Setting and atmosphere and windows make

House

a.m.; Saturday

a.m.-3 p.m., seatings

I

I

p.m.; Friday

Sunny yellow

this English

and Sunday, 7-10:30 a.m.

l-l 1:30 a.m.

or 1-1:30 p.m.

and Saturday, 6-10:30 p.m

paint,

basement seem

ochre and red

like

art,

and

lots of

wood

an enclosed courtyard.

Tapas: grilled quail stuffed with sausage; neo-Salvadoran pupusas

specialties

with a crunchy cornmeal batter; scallops and spicy chorizo with cilantro and lime;

stew with

stuffed with chorizo. Entrees: vegetable

rice croquettes; roast

ham and

caramelized oranges and corn sauce; seared salmon with serrano

figs

monkfish with saffron-

tomato broth.

Summary and comments

tapas spread, weekdays from

The happy-hour

could easily pass for dinner. The real pig-out, so to speak,

with suckling pigs carved from the

cheese and

fruit;

spit; paella;

is

4-7 p.m.

Sunday brunch, complete

cassoulet; rolls, danishes, and pastries;

vegetable and couscous salads; sardines and cold cuts; omelets; polenta

and potatoes; roast beef, lamb, and ham; plus unlimited champagne and a whole dessert bar,

for $26.75. Holy mole!

all

GALILEO

iriri^Vi

EXPENSIVE

ITALIAN

|

QUALITY

I

I

II

2

1

St Street,

NW; (202)

Reservations Required VISA,

••••

|

VALUE

Metro Dupont

to go Anytime Entree range $ 5-$35 1

Parking Free

Circle

ZONE 6

|

293-7 191; www.robertodonna.com

When

MC, AMEX, CB, DC, D Service rating

Wine

•••

*•**

Payment

Friendliness rating ••*i/2

valet (dinner, except Sunday)

Bar

Full

service

selection Wine Spectator Awzrd Dress Dressy casual Disabled access

Customers Lunch

Local, tourist, business,

Monday-Friday,

I

Good

gourmet mag groupies

1:30 a.m.-2 p.m.

Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10

p.m.; Friday

and Saturday, 5:30-10:30

p.m.; Sunday,

5-10 p.m. Setting and atmosphere

A

gracious stone and plaster palazzo with vaulted

recessed booths.

House

specialties

cock, guinea hen

—and

fairly often, usually

Among red

the frequent offerings are

game such

as venison

caressing a delicate pasta, as

the bread sticks and loaves, which

come

in

game

birds

—squab, wood-

and wild hare. Sea urchin appears

do wild mushrooms or

truffles.

Even

a half-dozen flavors, are to be savored.

Sauces and presentations are rarely showy, and purees often stand

in

for cream.

Other recommendations Grilled rack of veal or venison; sweetbreads; grilled or roasted seafood; homemade ravioli filled with buffalo ricotta, ham and mozzarella in a meat ragu cooked

in milk;

linguine with lobster

Summary and comments

stewed

in

pizzaiola sauce.

Like Cafe Atlantico and Minibar, Galileo and the 30-

seat Laboratorio are three-star and five-star experiences that

— most of the time—

bal-

C Restaurant Profiles ance out. Among the fer

from

Italian

city's finest

a lack of attention

restaurants

ratorio.There, the

1

restaurants by any account, Galileo had begun to suf-

by super-chef Roberto Donna,

town. However, Donna himself

in

0- to

1

2-course menu, which

day and Saturday, and optional wine pairing

Reservations required, smaller budget, the

call

new

is

$

is

$70,

who co-owns

a collection of

cooking once again

is

Monday

II

in

the Labo-

to Thursday, $ 25 1

Fri-

a marvel of market-fresh ingenuity.

is

(202) 33 -0880. And for those 1

who

big-name food on a

like

Osteria del Galileo, also inside the larger restaurant, serves

casual fare for

no more than $10

priciest Italian

wine

list

291

in

He

a dish.

also offers the longest, best, and probably

Washington, but with

style.

Regular customers get white-

glove treatment; tourists (and obvious food-trend victims)

may

find the staff showily

condescending, but precise nonetheless.

•*

GEORGIA BROWN'S MODERATE

SOUTHERN

QUALITY***

|

|

VALUE**

|

ZONES

I

950

1

5th Street.

NW; (202)

393-4499; www.gbrovy^ns.com

When to go Anytime Entree range $ 6-$23 Payment MC. AMEX. CB. DC. D Service rating ***i2 Friendliness rating ***i/2

Reservations Suggested VISA.

1

Metro McPherson Square or Farragut North Parking Bar Full service Wine selection Very good Dress access Good Customers Business, local, tourist Brunch

$6

Disabled

Business, informal

Sunday, 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

Lunch/dinner Monday-Thursday, p.m.; Saturday,

5:30-

1

1

district graciousness,

versation nooks;

An almost

too-sophisticated take on Southern garden

with vinelike wrought iron overhead, sleek

window

specialties

11:30 a.m.-ll:30

11:30 a.m.-IO:30 p.m.; Friday,

:30 p.m.; Sunday, 5:30-9 p.m.

Setting and atmosphere

House

Street; valet (after 6 p.m.),

wood

curves, and con-

tables are prime.

Real

Frogmore stew, with

oysters, scallops, clams, shrimp,

fish,

and

potatoes; fried (or grilled) catfish with black-eyed pea succotash; beautiful white shrimp,

heads

Look

still

on, with spicy sausage over grits; kitchen-sink sausage-chicken-shrimp

Other

recommendations

Sugar-and-spice-rubbed

whipped mashed potatoes and sauteed green beans; garlic

gumbo.

for unusual short-term specials such as squab and Australian yabbies.

oil;

southern fried chicken marinated

chop

pork

grilled

with

maple-

lamb chops marinated

in

buttermilk and served with collard

in

greens and mashed potatoes.

Entertainment and amenities

Live jazz at

Sumnnary and comments

is

high-octane planter's punch);

have found

in

This it's

Sunday brunch.

not low-country cuisine (except perhaps for the

haute country, updated versions of dishes you might

Charleston or Savannah. Presentation

is

distinctive

and portions are generous. Homesick Southerners can indulge and the farm-biscuit-like scones and fairly priced;

still

in

look uptown. The wine

without being showy,

the fried chicken livers list is

ail-American and

barrel-aged bourbons and single-malt Scotches are available as well.

**i/2

GERANIO MODERN AMERICAN

|

MODERATE

|

QUALITY***

|

VALUE***

|

ZONE

I

I

292

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

722 King

Street, Alexandria; (703) 548-0088;

www.geranio.net

Reservations Recommended When to go Anytime Entree range $ 3-$25; market 1

higher

price

rating

Payment

****

Business, casual

VISA,

AMEX

MC,

Parking Street Bar

Full

service

Wine

I

ment

(a

A

House

classic

softened by richly-colored

huge old grain

flaxen that

Good Dress

1

Setting and atmosphere is

Friendliness

selection

Disabled access Not accessible Customers Local

Lunch Monday-Friday, :30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner Monday-Saturday, 6-10:30 p.m.; Sunday, 5:30-9:30

brick

****

Service rating

p.m.

Old Town Alexandria townhouse, the exposed

still lifes.

Decor

also includes the

scale), majolica-look flooring,

odd hanging imple-

and plastered walls painted a soft

deepens through the evening to a sage green. Oven-roasted pork

specialties

loin

crispy onions; braised veal cheeks with black

with creamy polenta, wilted spinach and

pepper

spatzle;

osso bucco with saffon

risotto and broccoli rabe; lobster risotto with a half-lobster or lobster over polenta;

seared rare tuna.

Other recommendations creamed spinach

in

"Lasagna" of atlantic salmon, smoked salmon and

a crispy pasta;

;

seared salmon; oven roasted ribeye with sweet

onions, zucchini and pancetta over a baked potato cake.

Sunnmary and comments

Chef-owner Troy Clayton, who trained with Jean-Louis

managed to maintain the neighborhood

Palladin,has

hospitality of this

Old Town beauty

while completely refreshing and upscaling the menu. Dishes are complex

without gratuitous

frills;

this

is

GERARD'S PLACE FRENCH 1

1

VERY EXPENSIVE

5th Street,

|

QUALITY

NW; (202)

••••'/i

|

VALUE

•••

available after 9:30 p.m).

Entree range $24-$52 Payment VISA, MC,AMEX, CB,

selection

**y2 Parking

Good Dress

ZONE

|

3

737-4445

Reservations Recommended (not

Friendliness rating

pairings but

iri^i^irVi

I

9 5

in

a restaurant that remains quiet only by choice.

DC

Street; valet (evenings)

Business, casual

When

to go Monday

Service rating

***

Bar

Wine

Full

service

Disabled access Very good Customers

Business, local, tourist

Lunch Monday-Friday, :30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-9 p.m.; Friday and I

1

Setting and atmosphere

A

Saturday, 5:30-9:30 p.m.

quiedy powerful room, painted simply

in

charcoal and

terra-cotta and studded with a series of stark pencil lithographs.

House son

and red

The menu changes weekly, but look

specialties

dish; perfectly bell

poached lobster topped with a tricolor

pepper

in

for any sweetbread or veniconfetti of

sea" (known to sushi connoisseurs as ankimo or monkfish grilled rare, as rich as real foie gras

of quail

bound by

soft-shell crabs

mango, avocado,

lime-Sauterne sauce (Pangaud's signature dish);"foie gras of the

quail liver;

liver), lightly

but with a fraction of the calories and

boned

rabbit rolled and

wrapped

in

crusted and guilt;

terrine

Japanese seaweed;

not with almonds but sweeter, unexpected hazelnuts.

Other recommendations

Hearty bistro-max dishes such

duck and savoy cabbage; cod cheeks; braised

oxtail;

as pot-au-feu of

cured

breast of duck with shepherd's pie

5

Restaurant Profiles of the

leg.

Or you

can try the tasting menu:

menu

etarian tasting

courses for $85 (without wine). A veg-

also offered.

is

On

Entertainment and amenities

corkage fee on wines but the markup as

Summary and comments cooked and

five

Monday. Gerard's Place waives not only the well.

Gerard Pangaud prepares

classic food, often

incredibly tender, but unobtrusively lightened to

dards and keyed to seasonal specialties. Presentation restaurant

earned two Michelin

in Paris

is

modern

INEXPENSIVE

discreet but stunning. Pangaud's

stars.

irirVi

QUALITY

|

long-

nutritional stan-

GOOD FORTUNE CHINESE

293

••*

**V2

VALUE

|

[

ZONE

I

OB

I

2646 University Boulevard West. Wheaton; (301) 929-8818 Reservations Accepted

MC

PaymentVISA,

When

to go Anytime,

Service rating

***

late night

Entree range $9-$

Friendliness rating

***

Bar

Full

Metro Wheaton Parking Street, free lot Wine selection House Dress Disabled access Good Customers Local, ethnic

ice

1

serv-

Informal,

casual

Open I

I

Monday-Thursday.

a.m.-2 a.m.; Sunday,

I

I

Setting and atmosphere

room

"oriental" dining etc.

But

it's

a.m.-

11:30

a.m.;

1

Friday,

a.m.-2 a.m.; Saturday,

11:30

a.m.-l a.m.

This

not a particularly elaborate room, settling for

is

chairs and a big golden

temple on the banquet stage, a few

parties that dine simultaneously, as well as being a longtime contender for best

tonese kitchen

House

lions,

very spacious, as demonstrated by the number of large family groups and

in

Can-

town.

specialties Unusual seafood dishes featuring squid (especially the one with

sweet-sour mustard greens), sea anemone or sea cucumber, oysters, shrimp, conch, and fish

maw; frog

legs;

duck; dim sum. For less adventurous tastes, there are plenty of noo-

dle dishes, casseroles, and

steamed or

fried fish.

Other recommendations Chinese chopped

chicken, available

Summary and comments items, and able.

more

many

Dim sum

"barbecue," meaning roasted pork, duck, and

into two-inch pieces as appetizers; whole crispy fish; hot pots.

This establishment has a huge

menu

some 200

of

"standards," such as fried dumplings, aren't even listed, although avail-

is

served every day at lunch, although the weekend version

is

a

little

extensive.

•**

GRAPESEED MODERN AMERICAN

|

EXPENSIVE

|

QUALITY

4865-C Cordell Avenue, Bethesda; (30 Reservations Recommended

When

range $20-$29 PaymentVISA, liness rating

•••

)

•••

row Customers Food

VALUE

•••

[

ZONE

I

OA

1

to go Early dinner,

MCAMEX,

DC,

Metro Bethesda Parking

service Wine selection Very

|

986-9592

good Dress

D

Pay

late

on weekends Entree

Service rating lots,

•••l:

street meters, valet

Friend-

Bar

Full

Disabled access Nar-

Business, casual chic

trendies, locals, business

Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5-10 Setting and atmosphere

p.m.; Friday

and Saturday, 5-1

I

p.m.; Sunday.

This sleek and unfussy space, with

its

5-9 p.m.

removable front

294

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

onto the sidewalk and

walls

Jeff all

Heineman has designed

is

up

front,

modern

a

menu

white, and the pairings are usually quite smart snag, as they

makes two

bar,

to match his impressive

sometimes do. However, the

list

of wines,

Both "appetizers" and entrees, which can

taste.

and staying power, come

in size

exposed

and the food goes right behind. Chef-owner

tapas

or even

available by the glass, bottle,

vary considerably

leggy distance to the partially

its

points immediately: the wine

—

listed as

accompanying red wine or

unless the country's wine imports hit a

staff

is

make

well prepared to

alternate

recommendations.

House

Ethereal sweetbreads; crisp and delicate cornmeal-fried oysters;

specialties

spice-dusted red snapper; luxuriant braised veal cheeks; turkey breast stuffed with fontina, almonds,

and green olives (and the Sangiovese recommendation

witty and robust pepper-crusted

Other recommendations

filet

mignon with

Wild mushroom

is

just right); a

oxtail ragout.

fricassee;

"Portuguese stew" of clams,

pork, shiitakes, and oranges; snails with hazelnuts; grilled rockfish with wild

mushrooms

and roasted corn; seared scallops with port; roast pork with white balsamic vinegar and grapes; seared duck with rosemary and lavender

Allow some time to get the

Sunnnnary and connments The

list

of dishes

is

so intriguing that

it's

difficult

full

impact of

this

menu.

not to over-order, which won't at

all

bother your palate but may surprise you at check-out, especially as the wines can reach

$

1

a glass.

Still,

this

is

and forward thinking.

a delightful change of pace, a quick private seminar

almost certainly headed for a fourth

It's

in

*•*

GREEN PAPAYA VIETNAMESE

4933 Elm

|

INEXPENSIVE

|

QUALITY

Street, Bethesda; (30

Reservations Recommended

ment

VISA,

MC,

AMEX

Open

)

•• •

|

VALUE

I

|

Z ONE

I

OA

1

When

to go Anytime Entree range $9-$ 6 Pay1

lot

Bar

Full

**

Friendliness rating

service

Disabled access Good Customers

Monday-Friday,

•••

654-8986

Service rating

Bethesda Parking Street, pay ness, casual

new wines

star.

1:30 a.m.-3 p.m.

Wine

selection

***

Fair

Metro

Dress

Busi-

Locals, business lunch

and 5-10 p.m.; Saturday, 12:30-10 p.m.;

Sunday, 5-10 p.m.

Setting and atmosphere the bar, big

bamboo

even a funky

House

fans,

wooden "banana

specialties

Long on looks, with a celadon-tiled water

wood and marble

huge porcelain vases, carved

wall behind

accents, and

tree."

Squid salad with papaya and onion; a first-rate version of the

familiar grilled quail with black

pepper sauce; sausage, water chestnut and dried shrimp

lotus salad with shrimp

and papaya; baby clams with sesame crackers; curried

rolls;

prawns.

Other recommendations

Lemongrass pork,"carmelized" chicken or pork (made

with condensed milk and palm sugar); lemongrass duck; rack of lamb.

Entertainment and ammenitles

Sidewalk seating

Summary and comments

as the staff

much

Nice

is,

it's

curiously unreliable, not so

understaffed as haphazardly interested (and their mealtime seems to overlap the

Restaurant Profiles patrons'). But

if

you're not

in

here to please.

a hurry, there's plenty

**

FROM IPANEMA

GRILL

MODERATE

BRAZILIAN

QUALITY ••'/2

|

295

|

•••

VALUE

ZONE 6

[

I

NW;(202) 986-0757

1858 Columbia Road.

Reservations Recommended on weekends When to go and Saturday; or after

10;

Early, especially

Wednesday

Sunday brunch Entree range $ 3-$24; Three-course 1

Payment VISA, MCAMEX, DC, D Service rating ••'^ Friendliness Metro Woodley Park / Zoo /Adams-Morgan Parking Street Bar Full Wine selection Limited Dress Casual, informal Disabled access Good

brunch, $18

*••

rating Service

Customers

Local, ethnic Brazilian,

Dinner Monday-Thursday, midnight; Sunday, 4-1

Brunch

I

5-1

embassy p.m.;

I

p.m.-midnight;

5

Friday,

Saturday,

noon-

p.m.

Saturday and Sunday,

Setting and atmosphere

noon—4

p.m.

Spare and nouveau;

tainscape mirrors, and darkly tinted

its

rosewood,

Brazilian

windows suggest

slate

a huge celebrity limo

moun-

on cruise

control, and the black artist palm trees look like the backdrop for a fashion shoot.

specialties Feijoada, a black bean, smoked pork, and collard greens stew

House

served only on Wednesday and Saturday for dinner and Sunday crush); shellfish stews

carne de

either cilantro and pepper or palm

in

oil

all

day (hence the

and coconut sauces;

milk-resuscitated beef roast grilled and thinly sliced.

sol, a salt-cured,

Other recommendations

Grilled salmon

white wine, green peppercorn and

in

asparagus sauce; black bean soup served with a touch of parmesan cheese and bacon; spicy

conch soup with vegetables. The three-course Sunday brunch

A young and

Summary and comments when

lively

at

$18

is

popular

atmosphere, especially after 10 p.m.

the bar gets busy and the music turns up. The caipirinha, a mix of fresh lime and

cachaca,

is

particularly popular

and potent. Because of the no-reservations

policy,

and a

certain tendency of the Portuguese-speaking staff to prefer regular customers, the wait

—which

can be annoying

THE GRILLE MODERN AMERICAN I

1

also adds to the caipirinhas' popularity.

(AT THE |

MORRISON HOUSE)

VERY EXPENSIVE

6 South Alfred Street, Old

|

•••

QUALITY

Town Alexandria;

•••

VALUE

|

i^i^Vi |

ZONE IIC

(703) 838-8000;

wvvw.morrisonhouse.com Reservations Recommended

When

$ 2-$

$23-$3

1

1

5;

of wine)

ing

dinner $23-$3

I

(grill),

to go Anytime Entree range Breakfast, 1

(dining room),

Payment VISA, MCAMEX, DC Service

• **i/2

Parking Valet,

street

Bar

Jacket and tie (dining room), informal

Full

(grill)

service

$74 (Chef

rating

Wine

••*•

tasting),

1

Dinner Monday-Thursday, 6-10

a.m., Saturday,

p.m.; Friday

8-

1

(flight

selection Very good Dress

Disabled access

No Customers

business, tourists

Breakfast Monday-Friday, 7-

$38

Friendliness rat-

a.m.

and Saturday, 6-1

I

p.m.

Local,

296

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

A

Setting and atmosphere

lovely,

newer, but Old Town-style

inn,

with a curving

white marble stairway and various small, pretty dining rooms: some more formal with

white

classic

House

There

specialties

much

pretty

and definitely modern but

linen, oil paintings,

some more

stylish china;

like

and old smoking rooms.

libraries

no menu

is

Robert Ulrich comes out to say

as such; chef

what's on his mind and takes diner's serious allergies or prejudices into

account. Given the shifting menu,

hard to specify recommendations, but meat

it's

and Cervena venison are beautifully handled. Duck

dishes, including ostrich, pork,

cured, roasted, glazed, or confit'd

—

Sunnmary and

Under

connnrients

is

a favorite ingredient. different chefs, different names, and different

wandered from

cuisines, this restaurant has

for the last couple of years.

fine to frustrating, but

The menu changes

it's

which

frequently,

been

riding high

good

for those

is

intrigued by market-fresh ingredients, but not allWashingtonians are so off-the-cuff, and

some may

overwhelming.

find this a little

In

addition,

considered and original than others. But there sawy, the chef's menus quite likely a

little

— $74

for three or

some

dishes

no doubt that

seem more if

you're at

MODERATE

|

food-

courses, each including dessert and

—are

as intriguing as

recommended

any.And you can opt

for each course as well.

•*•

HERITAGE INDIA INDIAN

carefully all

more

lagniappe from the kitchen

for a glass of wine or even a tasting flight

is

QUALITY

I

•••

|

VALUE

•••

|

ZONE

5,

6

NW; (202) 331-1414; 2400 Wisconsin Avenue, NW; (202) 333-3 20 1337 Connecticut Avenue,

1

When

Reservations Recommended

ment VISA, MCAMEX, DC

to go Anytime Entree range $9-$24 Pay-

Service rating

**

Friendliness rating

***

(Connecticut Avenue) Dupont Circle or Faeragut North Parking Street, pay Full

Service

Wine

Bethesda only

Brunch

selection

Customers

Good Dress

Monday-Friday,

Dinner

I

1

at

noon—4

p.m.

:30 a.m.-2 p.m.

Monday-Saturday, 5:30-10

Bistro,

Disabled access Good

Business, locals, ethnic

Saturday and Sunday,

Lunch

Business, casual

Metro Bar

lot

p.m.; Tasting

Room, Tuesday-Saturday,

:30-IO p.m.

Setting and atmosphere walls,

The Glover Park

site

is

more

traditional, with

its

saffron

romantic sepia-toned photos and Raj-era lithographs and fabric upholstery. The

newer Dupont

Circle branch

is

confidently new-generation-centric; the bar stretches

nearly the length of the room.

House

specialties Heat freaks look to the lamb vindaloo, a real firestarter; moder-

ately spicy choices include fish

too spicy dish of

sliced

Other recomnnendatlons and onions

in

dried

and

its

in

in

A

any of a half-dozen tandoori dishes; a tangy but not

green pepper and tomatoes. soothing dish of baby eggplant

mango powder; vegetable

Summary and comments speak,

filets,

grouper

fritters;

This was one of the

first

new-age Indian kitchens, so to

the Washington area, ranging into less familiar and

success has inspired a

upscale service.

(It

number

sesame sauce; okra

in

assorted breads.

more

subtle regional fare,

of other kitchens to invest

has a third "relative," for those staying

in

in

complexity and

Bethesda: Passage to India,

B

Restaurant Profiles once

called Heritage India

and

still,

since the chef

is

the same, with a very similar menu.)

***

INDIQUE INDIAN

297

INEXPENSIVE

QUALITY ••*'

|

':

VALUE***

|

ZONE 7

|

I

NW; (202)

3512-14 Connecticut Avenue,

244-6600

Reservations Recommended When to go

ment VISA, MC.AMEX

Service rating

Cleveland Park Parking Street, pay lot Business casual Disabled access

Lunch

Every

day,

Early dinner

***

Bar

Full

Entree range $9-$ 8 Pay1

Friendliness rating

****

service Wine selection

Good Customers

Metro Good Dress

Locals, moviegoers, ethnics

noon-3 p.m.

Dinner Sunday-Thursday, 5:30-10:30

A

Setting and atmosphere

p.m.; Friday

and Saturday, 5:30-1

I

p.m.

lovely indoor "courtyard" with a

second story mezza-

nine, faux-aged murals, walls of tandoori-rub bronze, lattice-cut

marble dividers and

sky-like inserts overhead.

House

Steamed mussells

specialties

coconut broth, caramelized eggplant ban-

in

gun bharta, spiced lamb shank, calamari Ullarthiyathi sauce, buttery chicken tikka makhani; shrimp

and baked

in

a

banana

seed

a ginger-chile-mustard

in

wrapped with

tomato and spices

ginger,

leaf.

Other recommendations

Shrimp Baruval with spicy onions and tomatoes, shrimp

and scallop masala, and the appam stews, with

sauce.A good variety of breads, stuffed or

Summary and comments

slightly

sour pancakes

in

sambal coconut

plain.

This upscale and wide-ranging restaurant, with

ning presentations and carefully attended side dishes,

is

the jewel

in

the

its

Bombay

stun-

Bistro

business crown, and one of a happily expanding

number

Washington that look beyond the tandoori

possible, get in before 8 p.m., because

it's

line.

If

of serious Indian kitchens

in

very popular with the post-movie crowd.

*****

THE INN AT LITTLE WASHINGTON MODERN AMERICAN ZONE

I

|

VERY EXPENSIVE

|

QUALITY*****

|

VALUE*****

|

I

Middle and Main Streets, Washington,VA; (540) 675-3800

Reservations Required

When

to go Anytime Entree range Prix

Sunday-Thursday; $128, Friday; $158, Saturday

***'/2

Wine

Friendliness

**V2

rating

Parking

VISA,

Free

lot

MC

fixe:

$

I

1

8,

Service rating

Bar

Full

service

selection Wine Speaotor Award Dress Dressy, informal Disabled access

Customers

Fair

Local, tourist

Dinner Monday-Thursday, 6-9:30 9:30 p.m.; Sunday, seatings at ing

Payment

p.m.; Friday

4, 4:30, 7, 7:30, 8,

and Saturday, seatings at 5:30,

6. 9,

and

and 8:30 p.m.;Tuesday, closed except dur-

May and October.

Setting and atmosphere an enclosed garden (with

An

elegantly appointed but unfussy frame building with

many romantic

seatings

on the

patio)

and

rich,

painted walls, velvet upholstery, and the clean glint of real crystal and silver

handin

all

298

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

directions.

House

The menu changes

specialties

seafood and wild

mushroom

reminds you why

that's

continually, but look for dishes

such a classic entree; home-smoked trout; sweetbreads with

whole baby artichokes; baby lamb morsels with lamb sausage the dinner

is

such as

or lamb carpaccio; tenderloin of beef that

risotto; veal

And

alongside.

although

purportedly four courses, here, as at several other top-flight restaurants,

there are apt to be extras along the way.

Other recommendations

Soft-shell crabs

however offered

simple); a signature appetizer of black-eyed peas and Smithfield

same ham,

gras; that

mushroom

bello

sliced thin as prosciutto,

pretending to be a

Summary and comments and selected by

world tion.

—the

Travel

and

all

and a

name

a

is

is

the

cream with

his

it's

been profiled

most popular

make magic with

to

overfussy; local produce

Everyone remembers

—

capital's

over the country. O'Connell's strength is

is

in

in

or her

first

bitter chocolate sauce

foie

porto-

The NewYorker

and eighth

in

gourmet (and gourmand)

a sense of balance: Dishes are never

emphasized (which guarantees freshness); is

sadly rare.

— homemade white chocolate

passion here

—and

for

the

distant dining destina-

allowed to speak for themselves, which

lot of fine ingredients are

figs;

mignon.

culinary legend

Inn at Little Washington

overwhelmed or

fresh local

Leisure as the second-finest hotel in the U.S.

Chef Patrick O'Connell

circles

A

filet

wrapped around

(usually respectfully

ham topped with

some Washingtonians, driving down

other Washington becomes an addiction, a compulsion.

It's

ice

to the

the single biggest reason

boom in yuppie commuting to the hills. Incidentally, of Cam, it was O'Connell who bought up the wine cellar when Le Pavilion went

(besides horses, perhaps) for the

for fans

bankrupt, and one can almost not regret

it.

***

jALEO NUEVO LATINO

MODERATE

|

QUALITY***

|

|

VALUE***

|

ZONE

3,

I

OA,

I

IC

480 Seventh Street, NW; (202) 628-7949; 7255 Woodmont Avenue, Bethesda; (301)9! 3-0003; 2250-A Crystal Drive, Arlington; (703) 413-8181

When

Reservations 5-6:30 p.m only

to go Early evening Entree range $IO-$25

Payment VISA, MCAMEX, DC, D Service rating *** Friendliness rating *** Metro (downtown) Archives/Navy Memorial; (Bethesda) Bethesda; (Arlington) Crystal City

Parking

selection

Street; valet after 5

Good Dress

service

Wine

Disabled access Good Customers

Local,

p.m except on Sunday, $8 Bar

Business, casual

Full

tourist

Brunch

Sunday,

I

1:30 a.m.-3 p.m.

Lunch/dinner Sunday I

1:30 a.m.-

1

Setting and atmosphere with

bits

Monday,

and

1:30 p.m.; Friday

and Saturday,

A

11:30 I

a.m.- 10

p.m.;

Tuesday-Thursday,

1:30 a.m.-midnight.

combination tapas

bar, chic

of wrought iron, a lush suedelike gray decor, and

competition, and piazza,

(in

the original

branch) a partial copy of the John Singer Sargent painting from which

House

specialties

wash down

Tapas

—

it

bite-sized appetizers (four to a plate)

downtown

takes

its

name.

meant to help

glasses of sangria and sherry and pass hours of conversation.

Among

the

best regulars: tuna carpaccio; grilled quail; spinach with apples, pine nuts, and raisins;

salmon with artichokes; eggplant

flan

with roasted peppers; serrano

ham and tomatoes

1

Restaurant Profiles on focaccia;and miniature lamb chops. Chef Jose Ramon Andre's ticularly seasonal rarities, frequently of

Other recommendations rooms

shrimp or

shellfish,

Sausage with white beans;

menu around them

an entire

bets.

portobello mush-

grilled

Jaleo has taken tapas, a late-blooming bar fad, and built

—there

many

are five times as

tapas as

you're with three or four people, you can just about taste everything

may want

time, you

down

does

a heavy business, too, especially pre-

so smoothly, that you can overstuff yourself without realizing

want to celeb-spot, go

really

whole entrees.

in sight. (In fact,

and post-theater.

It's

The bar

it.)

already so trendy that

913-0003)

is

now open

in

Maryland.

**

JEAN-MICHEL MODERATE

QUALITY

|

I

1

if

hour; they're ducking the crowds. Jaleo's

off rush

Woodmont Avenue; (301)

Bethesda location (7271

FRENCH

If

the

to go extra slow:The plates look so small, and the palo cortada

goes

you

good

(getting to be a local staple); lightly fried calamari; paella.

Summary and comments

first

and par-

daily specials

are extremely

299

••V2

|

••V2

VALUE

ZONE OA I

|

0223 Old Georgetown Road (Wildwood Shopping Center), Bethesda;

(301)564-4910 Reservations Recommended

ment

VISA,

Parking Free access

Fair

DC

MC, AMEX, Bar

lot

service

Full

Customers

Lunch Monday-Friday,

When

Wine

is

and subtly divided by

House

Informal

•**

Disabled

This

5-8 p.m.

small,

little

and limited by

room:

light,

its

position

in

decorated with

a strip

restraint,

lower the volume and make up for the lack of a foyer

glass to

specialties

including roasted

p.m.; Sunday,

Though rather

nevertheless a pretty

nearly equal the menu;

Friendliness rating

Good Dress

Locals, business people

Dinner Monday-Saturday, 5:30-9:30

mall, this

•***

selection

1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

I

Setting and atmosphere shopping

to go Any time Entree range $l4-$28 Pay-

Service rating

go by the

really a place to

is

one

night there

were

daily specials,

eight appetizers and as

which often

many

entrees,

pepper and fennel soup; rockfish with shrimp and baby lobster;

veal

kidneys; and terrine of duck foie gras. Otherwise, look for the likes of ravioli with wild

mushrooms or

spinach and duck sauce; bouillabaisse; classic country-French versions of

veal scaloppine, lamb,

and venison.

Other recommendations mussels,

calf's liver, soft-shell

Grilled rockfish or grilled tuna with black olive sauce, crabs,

Summary and comments once considered relaxed,

a

good "continental French" restaurant downtown, but somehow

comfy version with

attitudes

and lobster flamed with whiskey.

Jean-Michel was the partner and host of what was

—better There

is

its

simplified dishes

little

seems to

that's unfamiliar here,

but

suit

him

—

as well as

that's part of

this

modern

what makes

it

easy to enjoy.

JOHNNY'S HALF SHELL SEAFOOD

INEXPENSIVE

|

QUALITY

iri^Vi

•• •'/2

|

VALUE

•••

|

ZONE 6

I

2002 P

Street,

NW; (202)

296-202

Reservations Not accepted

Payment

VISA,

MC,

AMEX

When

to go Pre- or post-rush Entree range $8-$24

Service rating

•*•

Friendliness rating

****

300

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

Metro Dupont Dress

Parking

Circle

Business, casual

Lunch

I

1

Street, pay lots

:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; light fare served

Dinner 5-10:30

p.m.;

Bar

service Wine selection

Full

Disabled access Not accessible Customers

open

until

Setting and atmosphere

I

I

p.m.

Good

Locals, business

from 3-5 p.m.

on Friday and Saturday

Intentionally low-key,

Orleans-style oyster bars and Gulf Coast

it

hearkens back to the Nev/

houses: Naugahyde, a marble-topped

fish

pull-up bar, and a no-reservations policy.

House stew,

New

The

specialties

one dark and

Orleans seafood

and the other

dirty

light

gumbo and

the Chesapeake seafood

and sunny; an equally lighthearted take on

Manhattan-style clam chowder; soft-shell crabs with corn pudding; fried oyster po' boys

New

Orleans); barbequed shrimp and

Other recommendations

Barbecued shrimp on cheese

(on bread flown

in

more

version than the littleneck clams;

from

genteel,

grits.

grits, a spicier "dirtier"

creamy low-country dishes elsewhere

town; roasted

in

decadent crab imperial.

Summary and comments

Executive chef

Ann Cashion and co-owner John

Fulchino are old friends to Washington foodies (see the profile of Cashion's Eat Place, above). This intentionally low-key seafood shack, dropped

Dupont a rarity

Circle,

is

a mini-getaway to the sort of old

the actual, tourist-crazy Big Easy: fried oyster,

in

"comfort food" that Cashion

turier

New

is

"only" three stars means modesty of

frigid beer,

famous for This

menu and

down

in

the middle of

Orleans bar that

is

a perfect

example of when

delightful execution.

***i/2

KAZ SUSHI BISTRO MODERATE

JAPANESE

****

QUALITY

|

I

1915

Street.

I

NW; (202)

VISA,

Metro

DC

MC, AMEX,

VALUE

selection

Lunch

When

Fair,

several sakes

I

Dress

Business, casual

Friendliness rating

***

Bar Beer and wine Wine

Disabled access

No Cus-

a smallish sushi bar

specialties

p.m.

A smart and in

the

rear,

sawy-funny room, with a mini-fountain wall

and abstract but oddly maguro-ish wallpaper.

Sake-poached scallops; lobster

spicy broiled green mussels; foie gras infused with

salad; glazed grilled

baby octopus;

plum wine; "Japanese-style duck con-

miso; salmon belly with fennel and yogurt sauce; the signature sea trout

"napoleon" of chopped layered

***

1:30 a.m.-2 p.m.

Setting and atmosphere

in

ZONE 4

trendies, business

Monday-Friday,

in front,

|

to go Anytime Entree range $l2-$20 Pay-

Service rating

Dinner Monday-Saturday, 6-10

fit"

***

Farragut West or Farragut North Parking Pay lots

tomers Food

House

|

530-5500

Reservations Recommended

ment

becoming

is

and the sort of cou-

on

crispy

fish

tossed with peanuts, cilantro, and soy-ginger dressing and

wontons.

Other recommendations

Nontraditional sushi such as tuna with foie gras or with

kalamata pesto; lobster with wasabi mayo; asparagus and roasted red pepper tobello and sun-dried

tomato

Sumnnary and comments

roll;

por-

roll.

Chef-owner Kaz Okochi earned many of

working at Sushi-Ko, where he originated many of what he

his fans

while

calls his "original small dishes."

Restaurant Profiles He

is

West, but not

also fearless about mixing East and

tuna and foie gras.The quality of the can get good sushi

a

in

number

more

the usual fusion forms,

in

traditional sushi

of places, as listed

Note the number

inventions for a spin.

in

is

first-rate,

i.e..

the

of course. But you

the front of this chapter. So take Kaz's

of intriguing vegetarian options as

v^^ell.

***

KINKEAD'S SEAFOOD

301

EXPENSIVE

•••

QUALITY

|

VALUE ••^/i

[

ZONE 4

|

I

2000 Pennsylvania Avenue,

NW; (202)

296-7700

Reservations Recommended (required

DC, D Service rating

Brunch

at dinner, pay lots,

Business, informal

Sunday,

I

upstairs)

When

to go

**• Friendliness rating *** Metro Foggy Bottom or Far-

ragutWest Parking Valet

Good Dress

room

for the dining

Entree range $20-$40 Payment VISA. MC, AMEX.

brunch

Anytime, Sunday

meters Bar

Full

Wine

service

selection

Disabled access Good Custonners Business,

local

1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

Lunch Monday-Friday, 1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner Sunday-Thursday, 5:30-10 p.m.; Friday and I

Setting and atmosphere

Pleasantly

Saturday, 5:30-10:30 p.m.

upstairs, as

is

commonplace these

days;

over two floors and

restrained, ranging

divided into a series of elevated or glass-enclosed areas. it's

a

Robert Kinkead on the consumer side of the

little

less

The

kitchen staff

common

visible

is

to see chef-ov^^ner

glass wall, barking at his

cooks

head-

via

set like a football coach talking to the booth.

House

specialties

(appetizer); roast

A

melting chargrilled squid over polenta with tomato confit

cod with crab imperial; seared sea scallops with a fennel tarte

tatin;

seared tuna with portobellos and flageolets; lobster specials; roast saddle of rabbit with crispy sweetbreads and fava bean-chanterelle ragout; Brazilian-style

pork with black

beans; walnut-encrusted snapper

Other recommendations

Ipswich-style fried soft-shell clams; crab and lobster

cakes (appetizers); sauteed cod cheeks;

Sicilian

swordfish with fennel, olives, currants,

and arugula.

Entertainment and amenities

Summary and comments

Live jazz weeknights;

This

is

nonsmoking raw

a seafood restaurant for those

of fish-or rather, "fishy flavors." Kinkead's style

is

bar.

still

a

little

leavy

simple and straightforward but not

shrinking; his sauces are balanced but assured, designed to highlight the food, not the frills.

Any

available

seafood can be ordered broiled or

almost an oxymoron. And Kinkead, whose rant, has installed a

little

grilled,

but "simply grilled" here

fame came from

his

salads.

It's

been a

little

a

raw bar

VERY EXPEN SIVE

|

QUALITY

•••l^

—

plus

inconsistent recently, however.

***

UAUBERGE CHEZ FRANCOIS FRENCH

is

Nantucket restau-

home-away-from-home downstairs by way of

chowder, soups, and

first-rate

first

|

VALUE

•^•'^

|

ZONE

MA

I

332 Springvale Road. Great

Falls;

Reservations Required 4 weeks

(703) 759-3800 in

advance

When

to go Summer evenings

weather for the terrace Entree range $40-$50

DC, D Service rating

••••

Friendliness rating

•••*

in

good

MC, AMEX, Parking Free lot Bar

Payment

VISA,

302

service

Full

men

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

Wine

selection Very good Dress Dressy, business (jacket required for

Customers

Disabled access Very good

at night)

Dinner Tuesday-Thursday, 5:30-9:30 p.m. or 9-9:30 p.m.; Sunday,

1

Locals

and Saturday, seatings at 5:30-6:30

p.m.; Friday

:30-8 p.m.

One

Setting and atmosphere

most beloved and romantic

of the

dining sites

in

the area, a real country inn with exposed beams, a mix of views of Alsace (home of paterfamilias/executive chef Jacques Haeringer),only-a-family-could-love drawings, and a travel-brochure veranda.

mecca

known

as an

semi-roman

a clef

so widely

It's

that Regrets Only, Sally Quinn's

engagement and anniversary about

included a rather improbable but dramatic tryst

circles,

with a stick

House

shift,

no

in

journalistic

and

the parking lot

political

an

(in

specialties

Classics such as rack of lamb ($50 for one,

$98 for two),

Chateaubriand for two ($98), and duck foie gras either sauteed with apples or the true choucroute royal garni, with Alsatian sauerkraut, sausages, pheasant, and quail;

kidneys

game

"plain";

smoked pork, duck,

season, such as medallions of venison and roast duck; veal

in

a rich, mustardy sauce; sweetbreads with wild

in

MG

less).

mushrooms

in

roasted boneless duck breast paired with the stuffed leg and fruit-dotted fricassee with shrimp, scallops, lobster, rockfish, and

salmon

Other recommendations

game

Various seafood and

puff pastry; rice;

seafood

in Riesling.

pates; red snapper braised

in

beer; boneless rabbit stuffed with leeks and fennel; soft-shell crabs with extra crabmeat stuffed into the body; big scallops

in

a bright (but not overwhelming)

tomato and

bell

pepper sauce.

Summary and comments

What

look

like

entrees on the

menu

— not to

dinners, and with salads, fancy appetizers, and dessert

cheese and a

bit

notice rule

still

worth

call in

it

to

vations for the

—

of sorbet

applies,

this

is

are really whole

mention bread and

a lot of food. Although the two-to-four weeks'

competition has increased, along with cancellations:

the late afternoon, especially during the week. You can't

outdoor terrace,

make sure

incidentally; just call to

it's

may be

It

make

reser-

open (about May

through September) and then show up.

LACHAUMIERE FRENCH

MODERATE

|

I

28

1

3

M

Street,

irirVi

QUALITY

NW; (202)

•••

[

VALUE

•••

|

ZONES

338- 784 1

When to go Anytime Entree range $ 5-$50 PayDC Service rating ••* Friendliness rating ***

Reservations Recommended

ment VISA, MCAMEX,

CB,

Parking Two-hour parking selection

Good Dress

at

1

Four Seasons Hotel (dinner) Bar

Business, informal

Full

service

Wine

Disabled access Good Customers

Local, embassy, business

Lunch

Monday-Friday,

I

1:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m.

Dinner Monday-Saturday, 5:30Setting and atmosphere linary competition, the

standing fireplace

thanks to the

new

in

1

0:30 p.m.; Sunday, closed

After 25 years

cooking

in this

in

the often tumultuous

big-beamed, in-town country

Georgetown inn,

with

its

cul-

free-

the center and old iron tools on the wall, has a revived freshness,

kitchen

around: Bistro fare of

broom

of chef Patrick Orange. And

owner Gerard

Pain's sort

is

what goes around comes

suddenly booming around him.

Restaurant Profiles

House

Oysters; seasonal specials of rabbit, choucroute, or venison (as

specialties

uptown

303

as medallions with chestnut

puree or as down-home as pot

crepes or jumbo shad roe; bouillabaisse; traditional tripe a

mode

la

in

pie);

seafood

Calvados. Here,

more

as at the Bistro Fran(;ais across the street (see listing), the daily specials are even

amazing; terrine of duck foie gras or fresh foie gras with cassis; ostrich loin wrapped

in

bacon; bison osso buco; seared sea bass with portobello-turnip risotto.

Other recommendations

Calf's

liver

or brains; sweetbreads with turnips and

Jerusalem artichokes; medallions of ostrich with blood orange sauce; quenelles of pike in lobster.

Summary and comments Wednesday its

it's

Part of La Chaumiere's

couscous, and Thursday, cassoulet. This

regulars are treated like family.Actually/'regulars"

hearkens back to the time mall,

The

LA

and a

lot of

fireplace

is

its

charm

a key

is

is

its

feel as

weekly

family-style food,

word

Chaumiere

than shopping

they graduated into adult dinner-dating here.

if

area's hottest (sorry) soulful-gazing areas.

COLUNE

irirVi

MODERATE

FRENCH

QUALITY

|

I

400 North Capitol

Street,

•••

When

ment

DC

**** Wine

MC, AMEX, CB,

VALUE

|

NW; (202)

Reservations Recommended VISA,

treats:

and most of

here; La

when Georgetown was more neighborhood

customers

one of the

is

•••

*

ZONE 2

|

737-0400 to go Anytime Entree range $ 5-$24 Pay1

•**•

Service rating

Friendliness rating

Metro Union Station Parking Garage, validation after 5 p.m. Bar Full service Good Dress Casual, elegant Disabled access Good Customers

selection

Business, local, tourist

Breakfast Monday-Friday, 7-10 a.m.

Lunch

Monday-Friday,

I

1

:30 a.m.-3 p.m.

Dinner Monday-Saturday, 6-10 Setting

atmosphere

and

undergone a long-needed

p.m.; closed

This

facelift

(and

Sunday and holidays

stubborn

menu

has

bistro-within-an-office-building

brush-up); the main dining

room

is

large,

two-tiered, with nostalgic paintings, a mix of booths and tables, and French countrykitchen cupboards.A its

House

specialties

look for foie gras and wild

new carryout annex

new management/kitchen

tude of

The menu tends to

homemade

mushrooms and baby

tournedos.

On

suggests the

lively atti-

feature "specials" rather than set pieces, but

pate; lobster

and

shellfish fricassee;

sweetbreads with

artichokes; tripe; cool lobster salad; stuffed quail; venison

the newer side, watch for shrimp

flavored calamari salad;

more competitive and

team.

smoked

ravioli

in

lemongrass broth; Thai-

trout.

Other recommendations Roasted monkfish; poached cod; appetizers duck breast, wild mushroom ravioli, or spicy lamb-stuffed pastries.

Summary and comments

of

smoked

La Colline manages to serve old-homey French food

such quantity (and with such hospitable style) that you'd expect the quality to but

somehow

it

keeps the prices

never does. The quantity of business of fairly steady,

though they've crept up

a

fall

in

off,

this Senate-side favorite also

little.

Presentation

is

simple and

untrendy, but exact: salmon or swordfish steaks on beds of vermouth-flavored sauce,

sweetbreads bull's-eyed over concentric

circles of bordelaise

and herb wine deglaze.

304

Game still

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

dishes and rowdy, hearty stews, along with the organ meats

most Americans are

only discovering, are always good bets.

LA

COTE D'OR CAFE

FRENCH (PROVENCAL)

i^i^Vi

MODERATE

|

QUALITY ***i/2

|

VALUE **i/2

|

ZONE

|

MB

6876 Lee Highway, Arlington; (703) 538-3033 Reservations Recommended

ment

VISA,

Metro

East Falls

Dress

When

DC

MC, AMEX,

Church Parking

Business, informal

to go Anytime Entree range $2Q-$30 PayFriendliness rating **i/2

***

Service rating Street, lot

Bar

service Wine selection

Full

Disabled access Good Customers

Lunch Monday-Saturday,

I

1

:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; Sunday,

Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10

p.m.; Friday

I

Good

Local, business

a.m.-3 p.m.

I

and Saturday, 5:30-1

I

p.m.; Sunday,

5:30-9 p.m.

Setting and atmosphere

throw from

stone's

Although seeming rather out of place at

and associated with a motel

1-66

—

this

is

French townhouse with armchairs, attractive but not overly formal

and

lots of

flowers and windows.

The

brightly

first

—

glance

a very pretty, three-room silver

and porcelain,

decorated addition, called Le Salon

Basque, has added a needed sense of cheer to what was sometimes a rather stuffy

atmosphere.

House Dover filet

Grilled loin with green peppercorn sauce; red snapper

specialties

on sauteed

sole; swordfish

leeks; calf's liver; rack of

filet;

lamb with red wine sauce;

of salmon with basil and cream sauce.

Other recommendations

From the

cafe

menu: steak

frites;

spicy

merguez sausages;

steak tartare; lamb shank; croque monsieur and crepes; and very garlicky escargots.

Summary and comments

This

more formal room and another

(and the bar)

wiches, crepes, and steak

LA

is

frites, called

another "Siamese twin" establishment, with one like a

casual bistro with the lighter sand-

Cafe des Celestines.

MICHE

i^i^Vi

MODERATE

FRENCH I

|

QUALITY***

|

VALUE **i/2

|

ZONE OA I

7905 Norfolk Avenue, Bethesda; (30 1) 986-0707 Reservations Recommended

ment

VISA,

MC, AMEX,

DC

When

to go Anytime Entree range $ 8-$27 Pay-

Service rating

1

***

Metro Bethesda Parking Valet, street meters Bar Dress

Disabled access Not

Business, informal

Brunch

Sunday,

I

Full

Friendliness rating ***i/2 service

accessible

Wine

selection

Customers

Good

Local, business

1:30 a.m.-2 p.m.

Lunch Tuesday-Friday, 1:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Dinner Monday-Saturday, 6-9:45 p.m.; Sunday, 6-8 p.m Setting and atmosphere The tone is somewhere between I

an old French inn and

an upscale bistro, with white lace curtains, gleaming wood, flowers, and

laundered

House

specialties

frog's legs;

soft, well-

linens.

Salmon with lobster-champagne sauce;

duck confit or

grilled

veal chop; nicely viscous

duck or almost any duck presentation.

.

Restaurant Profiles

Summary and comments boom

restaurant

shake off

likes

1

La Miche was a magnet

990s. and

in

Bethesda long before the

in

new chef-owner Jason Tepper knows

the old standbys; he's just shaking

all

"provincial"

of the

them

305

out.

The

better than to

dishes are classically

the best, as-you-like-it fashion, but not weighty or cloying.

Look

for the

of duck liver and foie gras, cassoulet, snails, medallions of venison, etc., depending

on the season.

MANNEQUIN PIS

L£

MODERATE

BELG IAN

iririrVi

•••

QUALITY

|

|

VALUE

••••

ZONE IOC

|

I

1

8064 Georgia Avenue, OIney; (30

Reservations Recommended

570-4800

) 1

When

to go Early dinner or

Entree range $l5-$25 Payment VISA. MC, AMEX, Friendliness rating

Dress Suburban

*••

Parking Free

lot

Bar

after 9 p.m.

D

service

Full

on weekends

Service rating ••Vi

Wine

selection

Fair

Disabled access Good Customers Food trend

casual, business

saveurs. local

Dinner Tuesday-Thursday, 5-9:30

and Saturday, 5-10:30 p.m.; Sunday.

p.m.; Friday

5-9 p.m.

Named

Setting and atmosphere

for the famously rude statue

relieving himself into the fountain), this

boy

in

little

bistro,

and coquette's salon, with tacked-up plywood, sponged egg-yolk

is

one

Brussels (the

a combination 1950s rec

of the

walls,

room,

heavy red

drapes, and stunning abstract paintings by chef Bernard Dehaene's mother.And one other

thing:Whenever the

House

specialties

cheese broth); ads;

light in

room

the men's

Mussels,

done

is

turned on, the statue

ways

a half-dozen

classic Belgian fries (called

"pommes

wood-roasted sea bass with capers, balsamic

oysters au gratin pickled

in

champagne;

are especially intriguing;

vinegar,

leeks. Daily specials

buco with caramelized onions and

beer.

Side dishes of braised endive and mini-saucepans of

Brussels sprouts; rich Belgian beers; fish of the day;

Summary and comments or

Like

its

decor, and

rump steak with

its

a choice of sauces.

unapologetically economical loca-

an unprepossessing strip mall, Le Mannequin Pis can be delightfully iconoclastic

bafflingly

headstrong, especially

dining room. Occasional lapses

in

when

the very short

kitchen

staff

gets

overwhelmed by

temper are not unknown, but

it's

with the restaurant's personality. Less entertaining are the infrequent lapses

performance, but with time, they're becoming rare. just

keep up

LE

sal-

and braised Belgian endive;

yabbies (Australia craw^sh) spread with cognac-anchovy

split

Other recommendations

in

and goat

potato straws); endive

chop with escargot; roast pork with salty-sour

veal

butter; foie gras; Flemishized osso

tion

(try the beer, leeks,

pailles,"

and spinach; salmon medallions with red cabbage and

figs

"tinkles."

its

end on the beer

list

.

Now

if

full

in

kitchen

Montgomery County would

.

***i/2

PARADOU

FRENCH

a

of a piece

VERY EXPENSIVE

|

QUALITY

••••

|

VALUE

•••

|

ZONE

3

I

678 Indiana Avenue.

NW; (202)

347-6780

Reservations Strongly recommended

When

to go Lunch,

after rush dinner

range Two courses $58, three-course dinner $75. seven-course

tasting $100, a

Entree la

carte

306

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

menu

in

Payment VISA, MCAMEX, DC, CB Service rating Metro Navy Memorial/Archives/Penn Quarter

the lounge only, $24-$27

***V2

Friendliness rating irirVi

or Judiciary Square Parking Street, pay selection Very good Dress Business,

Customers Lunch

lot,

valet at dinner

Bar

Full

service

Wine

Disabled access Lounge only

office casual

Business, expense account T&E, foodies

Monday-Friday,

I

1:45 a.m.-2:l5 p.m.

Dinner Monday-Thursday,

6 p.m.- 0:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5:30 p.m.-! 1:30 1

p.m.

Setting and atmosphere

This sleek and cool tv/o-level site has had several tenants,

looks remain relatively similar to

but

its

and

airy, all

its

opening as part of the Bice

cream paint and blond wood and white

linen (like a

ence room) livened by overhead fiber-optic "stars" and

ments.The private dining room

House

is

an old-fashioned

An almost

specialties

gem

line:

wide open

mega-corporate confer-

big dramatic, floral arrange-

with a huge crystal chandelier.

transparent lobster purse with ginger-carrot

jus;

truffle-studded boudin blanc on pureed fennel; oysters with caviar and sea urchin; foie gras (in

chop with chanterelles and baby

a variety of sauces); veal

lamb chop with tomato confit and

Other recommendations ster-truffle risotto;

Dover

sold with scallop-stuffed zucchini blossoms; lob-

squab with cumin and dates;

Entertainment and amenities mousse

classic coquiles St. Jacques.

Ornate amuse bouches such

wine

martinis, etc.); the

chef Yannick

Cam

This

is

and seafood

not a place to cut corners, even on a bar

marked up and bar appetizers

heavily

list is

has never hesitated to go whole hog. His style

and self-consciously sophisticated. But an occasional otherwise ethereal sea urchin in

as caviar

a blown-out egg shell.

in

Summary and comments

steak

turnips; mini-bouillabaisse;

olives with potato ravioli.

the presumably less

flan,

is

start at $8.

and

—

bar

—

at those prices keeps

of nouvelle cuisine

nental cream-sauce town; he's since been

in

in

what was then

it

many

Cam

is

was

—and

a sen-

a pretty heavy contiBrazilian,

the second big

that's

notoriously restless, and might well head off again before hes celebrates

anniversaries.

Still,

there's

no denying; when

he's

good,

he's very,

very good.

MAESTRO MODERN

an

below dependable

and out of a series of Provencal,

Catalonian-Spanish and French-country inn establishments caveat.

grit in

greasy foie gras under seasoned lamb or pedestrian

influential

really a revelation

($9

concentrated, intense,

flightiness in the kitchen

four- (or five-) star standing as yet. His first Washington restaurant, Le Pavilion, sation,

bill

But then,

ITALIAN

i^i^i^irVi |

VERY EXPENSIVE

QUALITY

|

••••

|

VALUE

•••

|

ZONE

MA

Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 700 Tysons Boulevard.Tysons Corner; (703) 917-5498

Reservations Highly recommended

$94-$ 25 Payment VISA, 1

ness rating

****

Award Dress

Full

service

Wine

selection Wine Spectator

Disabled access Very good Customers Local

special occasions, hotel patrons

Breakfast Monday-Friday, 6:30-1

Brunch

to go Anytime Entree range Prix fixe DC, D Service rating ****i/2 Friendli-

Parking Valet Bar

Business, dressy

expense accounters,

When

MCAMEX,

I

a.m.

Sunday, 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

Restaurant Profiles Dinner Tuesday-Thursday, 6-9 Setting and atmosphere brocade upholstery, heavy pieces

—but

p.m.; Friday.

This silver,

6-9:30 p.m.; Saturday, 5:30-10 p.m.

room

a classic luxury hotel dining

is

huge

307

flov/ers.

and charming

—white

linen,

animal center-

silver

an almost equally huge open kitchen, where prodigal chef FabioTra-

v^ith

bocchi and a bustling supporting cast prepare (and polish) the ornate presentations and

send them out with old-fashioned European

House

specialties

half-lobster

flourish.

Seared foie gras with blood orange sorbet; lobster

ravioli

with

sweatbreads Milanese; osso bucco-stuffed agnolotti; gratin of sea

tails;

urchin; a re-conception of

celeriac filled with

tournedos Rossini as

foie gras-stuffed filet

bone marrow mousse; pan-fried

scallops

wrapped

and "bones" of in

focaccia with

chanterelles and salsa verde; monkfish liver-stuffed ravioli with periwinkles; wild turbot

baked over fragrant saltwater hay; Dungeness crab and chanterelle

ravioli; scallops in

the shell with Jerusalem artichoke julienne; grilled baby lobster with black

A dry-aged

Other recomnnendations

veal

chop

truffles.

Amarone; roast squab with

in

figs;

any sea urchin presentation.

Summary and comments genius

—and

a playful

Chef Fabio Trabocchi,

—and

one

appreciative customers once

There are

more

ous

sizes,

tle erratic is

would be

a while, this

traditional Italian, very mod-Italian,

a

—

most of the

when

paradoxically,

—

it's

time,

never

it's

the

room

is

less busy,

than elaborate, and

less

is

a

a five-star restaurant for sure. little

much

of a muchness, but

and three tasting menus of

ranging up to about $85 without wines. While the cooking

less inspired

lier

just hitting his stride at 30,

the kitchen didn't seem to shrug off less obviously

menus (which are perhaps

actually several

impressive):

in

if

truly stunning. And,

is

vari-

sometimes a

lit-

which perhaps suggests the chef

when

it's

good, which admittedly

Maestro has another master

at hand:

is

somme-

Vincent Feraud,the dean of Washington wine stewards.

MAKOTO

iriri^Vi

VERY EXPENSIVE

JAPANESE

QUALITY •••'/2

|

|

VALUE •••'/2

ZONE 7

|

I

4822 MacArthur Boulevard,

NW; (202)

Reservations Recommended

$60-$70 Payment VISA, Parking Street Bar abled access

Lunch

Full

MC

When

298-6866

to go Anytime Entree range Tasting menu

Service rating

service

No Customers

Wine

••••V2

Friendliness rating

***

selection House Dress Business, casual Dis-

Ethnic Japanese, local, business

Tuesday-Saturday, noon-2:30 p.m.

Dinner Tuesday-Sunday, 6-10:30

p.m.

Setting and atmosphere A secret Japanese garden of a spot, hidden behind two wood doors (with a stone garden between where you exchange your shoes for bedroom slippers) and only two lines of diners long. The kitchen is, in effect, the decor: Slightly sunken behind what is now the sushi counter, the chefs busily stir, fry, and slice over the restaurant equivalent of a Pullman stove.

House

specialties

A fixed-price

ket and featuring courses of

two to

omakase

(chef's choice) dinner

six bites each,

seven courses of sashimi; sushi (perhaps four different pieces, ture desserts); grilled marinated

fillet

based on the mar-

but extraordinarily generous: up to like

a tray of fine minia-

offish (a choice); such delicate morsels as

ankimo

308

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

(monkfish

liver)

or rare duck breast with asparagus

tips

and sesame seeds; salmon with

Chinese broccoli; large bowls of wheat-noodle soup; and sherbet

Other recommendations

Limited a

carte sushi, such as uni (sea urchin), toro, or

la

fresh sardines; yakitori, skewer-grilled marinated chicken.

Summary and comments counting the

new

This

—which

sushi bar

a tiny establishment

is

explains

how

—perhaps

30

seats,

even

the chefs are able to produce such

exquisite and imaginative meals. For the greatest pleasure, order the tasting

menu and

experience kaiseki cuisine, the formal, Zen-derived technique that salutes both nature and art by using only fresh, seasonal ingredients and a variety of colors, textures, and cooking

show your appreciation by admiring each

techniques. Be sure to it

Note

arrives.

none of the

that

seats have backs

for storing purses, jackets, and cushion

lids

—

—and there

is

carefully

presented dish as

boxes with removable tops

^they're just

no separate nonsmoking

***•

MARCEL'S FRENCH

EXPENSIVE

***•

QUALITY

|

I

2401 Pennsylvania Avenue,

Pre-theatre 3-course, $48

When

service

***

VALUE

|

ZONE 6

296-1 166

to go Pre-theater Entree range $26-$39;

Payment VISA, MC, AMEX, DC Service rating *•* Metro Foggy Bottom Parking Valet, street meters, lots

***

Friendliness rating Full

|

NW; (202)

Reservations Recommended

Bar

area.

Wine

selection Very good Dress Business, dressy casual Disabled

access Very good Customers Business, foodies

Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10

and Saturday, 5:30-1

p.m.; Friday

I

p.m.; Sunday,

5:30-9:30 p.m.

Setting and atmosphere

wrought little

iron,

more

of the sunniness

—

—yellow

paint,

weathered wood,

of the former Provencal decor remains, though a

restrained.The long marble bar

elevated) kitchen

House

Much

stone facades, flowers

is

a showpiece, and the partially

exposed (and

not so intrusive as elsewhere.

is

Game

specialties

pheasant and foie gras stuffed with sausage

in

dishes

in

season, such as breast of squab on truffled risotto;

white bean ragout with winter vegetables, or roulade of rabbit

over caramelized cabbage. Also crispy duck breast with duck

confit;

pan-fried skatecoriander-seed-crusted salmon and foie gras-duck liver mousse.

Other recommendations Seared scallops with lardons of applewood bacon; duck consomme with sweetbreads; and coriander salmon, lobster sauce, and caviar Entertainment and amenities Kennedy Center), outdoor

tables

Summary and comments

in

menu $48

Pre-theater

good weather;

live

menu

limo

to

the

Chef-owner Robert Weidmaier, formerly of Cafe on

and Aquarelle, has consistently gotten bolder, cleaner French, he gives his

(including

piano music nightly except Sunday.

—and better Though the menu

M is

a Belgian touch that provides a rootier flavor: confits, root veg-

etables (including the various endives, of course), artichokes, and flavorful but not heavy

sausages.The service dentally,

is

is

very attentive, though at times a

trifle

"educational." Marcel, inci-

the owner's young son.

ami

MARK'S DUCK HOUSE CHINESE INEXPENSIVE QUAUTY •** |

I

**i/2 |

VALUE

•**

|

ZONE

I

I

— Restaurant Profiles 6 84-A Arlington Boulevard,

Reservations

When

Helpful

to go Late lunch,

MC

whole duck $24 Payment VISA, iririr

Church; (703) 532-2125

Falls

1

Parking Valet Bar Newly

late

licensed

Wine

Entree range $7-$

dinner

••*

Service rating

Sunday-Thursday, 10 a.m.-midnight;

1

5;

Friendliness rating

selection Basic Dress Casual Dis-

abled access Yes Customers Mostly Asian, but food-sawy types from

Open

309

Friday, 10

a.m.-

1

over

all

10 a.m.-

a.m.; Saturday

2 a.m.

Setting and atmosphere

moment, anyway) seafood all,

there are

sum

available

as 100 ducks

heads, swags of roasted ducks, tanks of

Pig's

— maybe

this

every day from 10 a.m. to a

the

items on the dinner menu, not to mention the 70 kinds of dim

some 400 on

live (for

should be called Mark's Menagerie Diner: After

busy night

tonese roast duck, which

3 p.m.

On

the other hand,

a fat layer

similar

is

does

it

sell

as

many

— mostly Peking duck to non-Chinese customers and Can— Chinese but with more of delicacy

a

to the ethnic crowd.

House

Aside from the ducks: roast pork;

specialties

stir-fried

greens; black cod;

spicy quail; noodle soups with seafood, duck, or pork; eggplant with bean curd and

shrimp paste; chive dumplings; barbecued pork buns.

Other recommendations

For those

who

enjoy

and organs, there's plenty

offal

here, and often on the specials board: knuckles, tripe, tongues (duck and pork), kidneys, etc. Also

look for whole frogs, not just the

cucumber; steamed sea

When

Summary and comments in

fact,

its

this place

is

such as squab and

jumping, which

large family

Restaurant"

groups can be deafening, and the service a

little

great

is

stuff.

***

MODERN AMERICAN

EXPENSIVE

|

Park Hyatt, 24th and

M

QUALITY

|

Streets,

Reservations Recommended

NW;

When

ment VISA, MCAMEX, CB, DC, D Bar

street

mal Disabled access

Every

day,

Wine

***

•••

|

ZONE

5

Friendliness rating ••'/2

Good Dress

selection

Business, infor-

Local, business

1

it

At

becomes

first

glance,

it's

almost

plain,

two

many overdec-

sides allow diners to look out

cafe-style umbrella tables, flowering shrubs,

specialties

but after so

soothing: a simple room, light and bright, with pastels, flo-

marble, and magnificent flowers. Glass walls along

House

VALUE

to go Anytime Entree range $20-$48 Pay-

Service rating

service

|

7 a.m.- 0:30 p.m.

orated restaurants, rals,

Full

••••

(202) 955-3899

Good Customers

Setting and atmosphere

toward fountains,

—the

less patient

MELROSE

Open

sea

go to Mark's for

usual high style; but these are noises of great satisfaction. Don't

pedestrian dishes you can get elsewhere; experiment and enjoy. Eel

Parking Valet,

quail;

most of the time

is

Crowded

the Chinese sign actually translates as "Great

cacophony from than

legs; small birds

bass.

and the herb garden.

Roasted twin medallions of pepper-crusted tuna and

foie gras; pan-

seared diver scallops with parsnip puree; squash soup with duck confit; signature dishes

such as poached salmon with bok choy and vanilla-and-cardamom vinaigrette; and

steamed lobster and angelhair pasta with mascarpone sauce. house-cured gravlax stuffed with crab and creme

fraiche;

shrimp

Among ravioli

the appetizers:

with sweet corn

310

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

and cracked black pepper; poached Thai-style calamari.

Other recommendations ian

options such as parsnip

Grilled seafood (a variety each day); imaginative vegetar-

ravioli

Entertainment and amenities on Sunday

snow pea

with truffled sunchokes and baby

shoots.

Free dancing on Saturday nights; no corkage fee

nights.

Summary and comments cooking that

Chef Brian McBride has

a light-bright attitude

match for the atmosphere here;

a perfect

is

toward

good with

he's especially

seafood, which dominates the menu. His sauces are complements, not covers, and

although the attitude

And, as

risk.)

climbed

—

closing

is

more

gotten

he's

this

generally classic, his combinations often provide a gentle sur-

is

he wants to cover too many bases at once, but

prise. (Occasionally

on

in

confident and

that's

more adventurous,

an explorer's prices have

his

a "very expensive" rating.

***

MESKEREM ETHIOPIAN

INEXPENSIVE

|

I

2434

Reservations Suggested VISA,

MC, AMEX,

Street

Bar

Open

DC

|

VALUE

***V2

ZONE 6

|

462-4 00 1

When

Payment

to go Anytime Entree range $9-$ 3 1

***

Service rating

service Wine selection Minimal

Full

Customers

QUALITY***

NW; (202)

8th Street.

1

***

Friendliness rating

Parking

Dress Casual Disabled access Good

Locals, tourists

Sunday-Thursday, noon-midnight; Friday and Saturday, noon-

Setting and atmosphere

1

a.m.

Simple but cheerful, with "skylight" rays painted blue

and white, and Ethiopian-style seating

(for the limber)

on leather cushions

at balcony bas-

ket-weave tables.

House

specialties

Kitfo (tartare

with chile sauce, but

it

can be ordered

or you can have a similar hot chopped-beef stew called kay leg

meat sauteed with onions and green

sambusa

Other recommendations

Ethiopian food:

First,

Chicken

spoon, and napkin

—

may be

in

cooked,

and green

and

chile

a

dozen

of the

Ethiopia

all in

in

is

one; second,

alictia is

the

1

is

name

the spicier one. Washington's

Adams-Morgan

—order

3-month Ethiopian

many

Ethiopian restaurants

alone) offer similar menus, is

one of the

some

in

best.

If

|

one

Street,

NW; (202)

is

the

that corresponds to September, is

akin to springtime.

icirVi

QUALITY ***'/2

|

I

327 Seventh

cases with-

you want a sam-

the mesob for $7.25. Meskerem, incidentally,

calendar, the

the end of the rainy season and thus

MODERATE

injera as

of the milder stew or curry

MONTMARTRE FRENCH

honey-wine

There are three things novices need to know about

a tray-sized injera palette

month

which

lentil

alicha for the spice-intimidated; a

out much distinction between stews, but Meskerem pler

beef or

eaten with the hands, using a spongy pancake called

it's

preparation; and third, watt

first

watt;

lightly

tibbs (breast

kitfo called gored-gored.

Summary and comments

(there

shrimp

lamb

(fried pastries).

version of

plate,

chiles);

watt);

544- 244 1

VALUE ***'/2

|

ZONE 7

1

Restaurant Profiles

When

Reservations Recommended

ing

****

Metro

to go Early or

DC

$l6-$25 PaymentVISA. MC.AMEX,

Bar

Eastern Market Parking Street

dinner

late

••••

Service rating

Full

Lunch Tuesday-Friday, 1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner Tuesday-Thursday, 5:30-10 p.m.; Friday and

1

Entree range

Friendliness rat-

service

Short but good Dress Casual, business Disabled access Fair

3

Wine

Customers

selection Local

I

Saturday, 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Sunday,

5:30-9 p.m.

Setting and atmosphere of the

word "cafe,"

This

is

the sort of place that makes "cozy"

sunny-sponged room of about 50 seats with a

a single

seem

part

like

tiny bar at the

back, lively views of the sidewalk to the front and the kitchen to the rear, and elbow-to-

elbow

tables.

House

specialties

wide egg noodles

in

The

signature dish here

cream sauce, and

slow-braised rabbit leg with olives and

is

hard to beat. Otherwise, look for hangar

it's

steak (onglet); a very Parisian salad of frisee with fried gizzards and bacon lardons;

cream of cauliflower soup with mussels; shrimp and lemon

risotto; mussels with Ricard;

sauteed monkfish over potato cake with anchovy butter

Other recommendations

Daily specials such as venison rib chops with braised

endive and a guinea hen confit with Jerusalem artichokes.

Summary and comments Bistrot Lepic (the other

is

This

is

one of the

Petits Plats in

Woodley

beneficiaries of the shake-up at

Park), as the

owners are alums of

that hospitable cafe and of the longtime Provencal hangout, Lavandou Park.

success as a neighborhood favorite

Its

is

in

Cleveland

attested to by the fact that there are fre-

quently crowds winding out the door.

***

MURASAKI MODERATE

JAPANESE

QUALITY

|

•••

|

VALUE

•••

[

ZONE 7

I

4620 Wisconsin Avenue, Reservations

ing

Helpful

PaymentVISA,

higher

NW; (202)

When

to go Anytime Entree range $IO-$28; market price

MCAMEX, DC, D

• *** Metro Tenleytown Dress

Limited

966-0023

Service rating

••••

Friendliness rat-

Parking Street Bar Beer and Wine Wine selection Disabled access Good Customers Ethnic Japanese,

Business, casual

business

Lunch

Monday-Friday,

I

1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m; Saturday

Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-

1

0: p.m.;

and Sunday, noon-2:30 p.m.

Friday and Saturday, 5:30- 0:30 p.m; Sunday, 1

5:30-9 p.m.

Setting and atmosphere hue

in this

elegantly spare

Murasaki means "purple," but there

room, which tends instead to

only slightly "Asian" look using

The

grill

wood

and sushi bars, which run

framing,

a long L

cream

isn't

much

a clean, partially

walls,

of that

Deco and

and a pleasant side

patio.

around the rear of the room, are the

focal

points.

House

specialties

The

real specialties (occult parts of sea creatures, delicate

dishes, etc.) are not printed

they then items.

On

dislike,

baked

on the menu, since novice diners too often order dishes

so Japanese connoisseurs should consult with the chef about favorite

the other hand, even lobster sashimi and lobster miso soup can tickle the

3

2

1

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

trend-addicted. Also

look for eggplant dengaku, soft-shell

marinated sea bass; white tuna and uni sushi

Other recommendations

—

in fact,

An assortment

tempura, miso-

crabs

any sushi here.

of seafood tennpura that puts

all

Maine

fisherman's platters to shame; and for unregenerate carnivores, pork teriyaki and (seared) beef sushi.

Summary and comments

The

among the most respected by

chefs here are

peers, and the restaurant's proximity to the Japanese Embassy

Avenue,

down

NW; (202)

is

a very likeable, though

Yosaku

the street called

more

predictable, Japanese

that should please (47 2 Wisconsin 1

363-4453).

NEW HEIGHTS MODERN AMERICAN

|

23 7 Calvert Street, 1

**

MODERATE

QUALITY***

|

NW; (202)

Reservations Recommended

234-4

When

ment VISA, MCAMEX, DC, D

1

1

0;

Informal, business

Brunch

Sunday,

I

1

Full

Fair

***

service Wine selection Very

Customers

good

Local

a.m.-2:30 p.m.

I

A

p.m.; Friday

small

and Saturday, 5:30-11 p.m.

Woodley Park townhouse

opened up to take advantage of the

House

ZONE 7

|

to go Anytime Entree range $ 7-$30 Pay-

Disabled access

Setting and atmosphere

light

simply decorated and

and the glorious view down Connecticut

Circle.

The menu changes

specialties

change of

|

Service rating **!/2 Friendliness rating

Dinner Sunday-Thursday, 5:30-10

Avenue to Dupont

VALUE **i/2

vvww.newheightsrestaurant.com

Metro Woodley Park/Zoo Parking Valet Bar Dress

their

probably no accident;

and even v/edding parties often crowd the dining room.

large tables of Japanese diners

Should Murasaki be booked, there restaurant just

is

chef; at press time, at least, the

dishes; sesame-seared tuna with baby

seasonally,

menu

and with the

included

bok choy and

relatively

frequent

good versions of fairly standard

sushi rice cakes;

lambchops with

goat cheese-mashed potatoes; and horseradish-crusted halibut with crab-parsnip puree.

Summary and comments chefs.

Owner Umbi

This

may be Washington's most

successful "school" for

Singh, has a great eye for chefs (a half-dozen of

ated to restaurants of their own) and a history of giving

whom

them room to

have gradu-

stretch (from

Meditteranean to fusion to Modern American). The newest, Arthur Rivaldo, worked at Citronelle.

NORA MODERN AMERICAN

irirVi |

2 32 Florida Avenue, 1

EXPENSIVE

|

NW; (202)

QUALITY

***y2

|

VALUE***

|

ZONE 6

462-5 43; www.noras.com 1

Reservations Recommended When to go Anytime Entree range $25-$32; tasting

Payment VISA, MCAMEX, personal checks Service **** Metro Dupont Circle Parking Street, valet Bar Full service Wine selection Good Dress Business, casual Disabled access No Customers Locals menu, $58-$64; vegetarian, $58

rating ***'/2 Friendliness rating

Dinner Monday-Saturday, 5:30-10:30

p.m.; Sunday, closed

3

Restaurant Profiles

A

Setting and atmosphere and

enclosed greenhouse balcony

House

specialties

in

townhouse with exposed

pretty corner

a gallery of handicrafts, quilt pieces,

the rear

and faux

1

brick walls

the dining rooms; an

naif art in

the prettiest area.

is

The menu changes

3

frequently, but look for sauteed calf's liver;

salmon and more imaginative vegetarian platters than elsewhere.

Summary and comments A and B lists, was haute organic a prime

mover

in

Nora, the neighborhood hangout of the Dupont Circle before organic was chic: chef-owner

the slow food and renewable crops forces, and

the Chef's Collaborative.

The back

of the menu, which changes

farms where the meat, produce, dairy products, and eggs according to the supplier alongside the restaurant is

—are

Nora was

passed on, but not unreasonably

Zen penance.

meals sometimes

Its

was the

it

only drawback

feel heartier

also

first

the specific cholesterol,

in

flower and herb garden

such specialized ingredients

ahead of the crowd by introducing

restaurant to

make

lentils

that didn't

an odd tendency to weightiness

is

was

low

—the

than they taste.

OBELISK

iririrVi

VERY EXPENSIVE

ITALIAN

Pouillon

on the board of

daily, lists

naturally

all-edible

indicative. The cost of acquiring

is

alternative grains and pastas, and taste like a

own

raised. Nora's

—

Nora

is still

QUALITY

|

****'/2

|

VALUE****

|

ZONE 6

I

2029 P

Street,

NW; (202)

872-

1

1

80

When

Reservations Recommended

to go Anytime Entree range Prix

fixe, five-

Payment VISA, MC, DC Service rating **** Friendliness rating ***!/2 Metro Dupont Circle Parking Street Bar Full service Wine selection Good Dress Business, informal Disabled access No Customers Local, business course, $65

Dinner

Tuesday-Saturday, 6-10 p.m.; closed Sunday and

A

Setting and atmosphere tomers,

tiny

and accoutrements

staff,

chest but the astonishingly

room

Monday and good-humored; the cus-

that's elegant

— not only the

room's

floral

centerpiece and silver

breadsticks and bottles of grappa

light

—work

intimately

elbow to elbow.

House

specialties

menus

rich

— he

Chef Peter Pastan has

offers a fixed-price

maybe four choices per course. Among nel;

figured out the cure for overlong, over-

menu, four to

courses with only three or

five

typical antipasti:

marinated anchovies and fen-

artichokes with goat cheese; caramel-soft onion and cheese tart; crostini; a thick

soup; quail terrine; crispy fried cheese; polenta with gorgonzola; potato or rice balls.The primi course

is

apt to be seafood or pasta (red pepper noodles with crab and pungent

chive blossoms; gnocchi with pesto; ond'!,

veal (particularly tenderloin

pano with

olives; black sea bass

wheat noodles with

rabbit ragout) or soup; the sec-

prepared with artichokes or chanterelles);

or perhaps game birds or a mixed

grill.

After that

comes

—

it's

a quality bargain in this

Summary and comments anything; sauces are

and greens

—

more

(pom-

a fine bit of cheese, with or

without a dessert course following. Whatever the price

menu

fish

with grilled radicchio, grilled shrimp with herb puree);

—

it

varies with the daily

town.

Pastan's

like glazes,

hand

is

so deft he doesn't need to overdress

and pungent ingredients

are perfectly proportioned to their dish.

Above

—

olives, pine nuts, garlic,

all, it

shows the value of

314

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

letting a chef

who knows

one

what he

exactly

Pizzeria Paradiso next door,

knows the

SEAFOOD 20

as he likes. Pastan,

who

owns

also

good bread dough, more than

in fact.

EXPENSIVE

NW; (202)

VALUE ••^/i

|

ZONE

|

3

347-bass

When

Reservations Recommended

ment VISA, MC.AMEX, D Metro Center Parking

Dress

•••

I

F Street,

1

QUALITY

|

**

ROOM

OCEANAIRE SEAFOOD 1

do

likes

value of a really

to go Anytime Entree range $20-$30 Pay-

•**

Service rating

Bar

Valet, pay lots

***

Friendliness rating

Wine

service

Full

Disabled access Good Custonners Local

Business, dressy casual

Metro

selection Very good business,

boutique finance types, lobbyists

Open 5-1

Monday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-IO

p.m.; Sunday,

I

Setting and atmosphere is

Inspired by the great ocean liners of the

leather booths and heavy silvenThe music ter crackers, and the in itself.

House fish

all

raw

bar,

with

So are the retro

p.m.; Saturday,

I

1

930s, the

room

in daily

from

all

day);

is

even more kinds of fresh

directions (Arctic char, Hawaiian spearfish.

pound; a huge chilled seafood platter If

condiment tray includes oys-

Big Band, the

cocktails: side cars, Singapore slings, cosmopolitans, etc.

available simply grilled; crab-

man's platter

is

leather-topped stools and great piles of oysters,

its

Oysters (up to a dozen varieties a

specialties

flown

cod),

1

of curved surfaces, gleaming cherry- and etched-wood dividers, brass-studded

full

a trip

11:30 a.m.-

p.m.; Friday,

5-9 p.m.

or, for fried

"sushi-grade black grouper"

Other recommendations

is

seafood

available,

fans,

North

Atlantic

by the

sole; lobsters

and shrimp-stuffed gray

the old-fashioned fisher-

head straight for

it.

Crabcakes; a "cocktail" of rock lobster-sized shrimp;

Ipswich clam or oyster pan roast.

Entertainment and amenities The olives, radishes, giant capers, etc. This

bar the steal meal of the

Oceanaire would be

new

outcome

herring, carrot sticks,

century.

In fact,

we were

if

only rating on the oyster bar,

five stars.

Summary and comments logical

relish tray of pickled

even comes with oysters, making a dozen at the

This

is

the seafood chain of the twenty-first century the

(given the ever-increasing size of the portions, steakhouses

accounts) of the hefty surf-vs.-turf wars. Everything

is

and expense

huge, easily shared, and that goes

double for desserts. (The retro look and retro extravagance partly explain some of the retro entrees, such as baked Alaska and oysters Rockefeller) frills

a

little

excessive, and you definitely pay for the quality

The asparagus

erans might blink at the $22-per-pound tag on the lobsters

be showily "informative," but for a seafood

fan,

it

really

tired of only a swordfish option at the steak palace, list

hidden at the bottom: one chicken option, a

it's

is

is

of

a luxury liner

staff

And

1

080

1

|

EXPENSIVE

the vet-

can

for those

funny to see the "not seafood"

mignon, or a cheeseburger

filet

**

OLD ANGLER'S INN MODERN AMERICAN

fat,

—even some chophouse —and some the

|

QUALITY

•••

MacArthur Boulevard, Potomac; (30

) 1

|

VALUE

299-9097

••/2

|

ZONE OB I

5

Restaurant Profiles

When

Reservations Required

Bar

Free lot

service

Full

Lunch

Parking tie

Locals

Sunday, noon-2:30 p.m.

Tuesday-Saturday, noon-2:30 p.m.

Dinner Tuesday-Sunday, 6-9

blazing fireplace

narrow, iron

A

beautiful, old-fashioned inn

Other

in

seasonally, but frequently includes ostrich,

in classic

service),

and fresh

fish.

which can be requested as vegetarian or seafood-only

Summary and comments the wine

— haphazard

list's

dressing

occasion "inn"

a

and lobster. Also look for squab or duck dishes, caviar (either as an

recommendations Ask for the chefs-choice

weaknesses

a

rooms up

good weather.

The menu changes

specialties

ingredient or

river, v/ith

(and bathrooms out of the servants' quarters). The stone

spiral staircase

terrace and gazebo levels are open

House

above the

the parlor bar downstairs and a huddle of small dining

in

foie gras, venison,

Monday

p.m.; closed

Setting and atmosphere

little:

•••

Friendliness rating

selection Brief Dress Dressy, business, jacket and

No Customers

Disabled access

Brunch

Wine

•••

rating

1

Payment

to go Anytime Entree range $24-$36

VISA.MC.AMEX.CB.DC Service

3

menu if

you

(for the

This has always been a beautiful

service and hit-or-miss food

range doesn't keep up with

its

more

down more, treating

it

—which may be the

direction

—

still

whole

table only),

like.

site,

threaten

it

but

familiar

its

occasionally,

neighborhood restaurant than a

as a it's

MODERATE

|

special

headed.

**

OLD EBBITT GRILL AMERICAN

and

price range. The crowd, too, has changed, a

QUALITY JrJrVi

\

VALUE

•••

|

ZONE

3

I

675

5th Street,

1

N W; (202)

347-480

tripping

***

***

G

fee,

Street atrium)

for

power-

I

Business, feds, locals, tourists

a.m.

Saturday and Sunday, 8:30 a.m.-4 p.m.

midnight; late-night

menu every

Setting and atmosphere hospitality: a

I

day,

I

a.m. -midnight;

midnight-

An updated

few horsey accoutrements

etched-glass dividers

House

work

1

Customers

Lunch/dinner Monday-Friday,

with

after

DC, D Service rating

$ 5 Dress Business, informal Disabled access Very good

Breakfast Monday-Friday, 7:30-1

Brunch

MCAMEX,

Metro Metro Center or McPherson Square Parkand all day Sunday) Bar Full service Wine selec-

lots (validated after 6 p.m.

tion Good; corkage (through

v/ww.ebbitt.com

;

to go Sunday brunch,

Entree range $9-$25 Payment VISA,

Friendliness rating

ing Pay

1

When

Reservations Recommended

in

specialties

homemade

1

Saturday

and

Sunday,

p.m.-

old-boys' club, but with equal opportunity

(bridles, snaffles) in front, lots of

the main room, and a classic oyster Linguine with shrimp,

basil,

greenery and

bar.

and fresh tomatoes; pork chops

applesauce; black pepper-rubbed leg of lamb with papaya relish; old-

fashioned pepperpot beef; steamed mussels;

smoked salmon

(a

company

and smoked bluefish when available.Annually, during the brief halibut season the Old Ebbitt and

its

Clyde's cousins have a halibut celebration that

performance for seafood beef hash.

4

a.m.

lovers. For brunch, fat old-style

is

a

signature) in

Alaska,

command

French toast and corned

316

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

Entertainment and amenities

Summary and comments

Occasional piano music at happy hour.

This

one restaurant whose whole experience

is

—

somehow better than the food might indicate by itself. The Old Ebbitt actually, new Old Ebbitt for those who remember the fusty Back Bay-style original around corner and

stuffed

its

owls and scuffed bar

rails

location seriously, but not too seriously. That

—

takes

is, it

is

the

the

White House neighborhood

its

out pagers to patrons waiting

gives

for tables, but the staff democratically seats the ties and T-shirts side by side.

**

OLD GLORY BARBECUE

M

3139

MODERATE

|

Street,

Reservations

|

QUALITY ••'/i

NW; (202)

VALUE

|

•••

ZONE

|

5

337-3406; www.oldglorybbq.com

Parties of 6 or

When

to go

Payment VISA, MC,AMEX, DC, D Service

rating

more

Afternoon Entree range $9-$25

***

**!/2 Friendliness rating

only, for lunch

Parking Pay

or weekday dinner

lots,

street

Bar

Full

service

Wine

Good Customers

selection Minimal Dress Casual, informal Disabled access Local, tourist

Brunch

Sunday,

I

I

a.m.-3 p.m.

Lunch/dinner Monday-Thursday, a.m.; Sunday,

I

I

I

1

a.m.-2 a.m.; late-night

A

Setting and atmosphere

menu

and Saturday,

available every day,

chic and cheeky take

The

a sort of Six Flags theme:

:30 a.m.-2 a.m.; Friday

1

I

I

1

:30 a.m.-3

:30 p.m. until closing

on roadhouse diner decor with

state colors of Tennessee, Texas, Georgia, Kentucky,

Kansas (which used to be Arkansas), and the Carolinas hang overhead, while each table is

armed with

chilied,

bottles of six different barbecue sauces

—named

mustardy, tomatoey

—

same seven

for the

mild, sweet, vinegary, multi-

states.

A

mix of old and new

country and honky-tonk music plays on the PA.

House

specialties

Pork

or beef spareribs; "pulled" (shredded rather than

ribs

chopped) pork shoulder; jerk-rubbed, roasted chicken; slow-smoked

smoked ham; various combinations or sandwich versions

leg of lamb;

thereof. Daily specials often

include pit-fired steaks or fresh seafood.

Other recommendations

Pit-grilled

burgers with cheddar and smoked ham; mar-

inated and grilled vegetables; marinated, wood-grilled shrimp.

Summary and comments particularly

The

when

it

biscuits are fine (the

—

rice

is

This trendy finger-lickers' stop

comes to the sort cornbread

better than authentic.

It's

is

surprisingly good,

of Southern side dishes that rarely travel well.

isn't),

neither

and the hoppin' John

mushy nor

—black-eyed peas and

greasy.

ORTANIQUE CARIBBEAN/NUEVO LATINO

ZONE

3

730

Ith Street,

I

irirVi |

VERY EXPENSIVE

NW; (202)

|

QUALITY***

|

VALUE

***V2

|

393-0975

Reservations Helpful When to go Late

for the scene

Entree range $3 -$50 Pay1

VISA, MC, AMEX, D Service rating *** Friendliness rating **** Metro Metro Center or Gallery Place/Chinatown Parking Pay lot Bar Full service

ment

Wine

selection Limited Dress Business, dance-clubbish, casual Disabled access

7

Restaurant Profiles Good Customers

some

Latino and buppie business; under-30s cocktailers;

3

1

pre- and

post-MCI Centre crowds

Lunch Monday-Friday, noon-2:30

p.m.

Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10

p.m.; Friday

Setting and atmosphere

This

wide-open atrium-style

trompe

citrus),

various

ceiling,

I'oeil

son, Ortanique

House

big

I

p.m.; closed

Sunday

eponymous Jamaican

vinery (including the

nooks and even a few "private" tables on the mezzanine made for

little

being seen. The 350-gallon aquarium and

and broadcast

1

good-looking and festive restaurant, with a

a

is

and Saturday, 5:30-

lanquid inhabitants are on closed-circuitTV

its

on a barside screen. Formerly owned by BET founder Robert John-

still

has a black/business/media contingent

who

dress to impress.

Several ceviches du jour (including conch with Scotch bonnet

specialties

peppers and salt-cod "tater

spiced-rum and jerk-rubbed pork

tots"); curried crab cakes;

West

chops; more-tangy-than-sweet barbecued salmon;

Indian-style bouillabaisse in

curried coconut broth; and a rich but fascinating jerk-rubbed foie gras over salad and

duck

Grand Marnier "drizzle."

confit with

Other recommendations with

salsa;

conch

sesame- and spice-marinated tuna

Spicy-fried calamari;

fritters.

Summary and comments

The menu was designed by Miami

star chef

son,

who

calls

here "cuisine of the sun," a West African, Caribbean, Floribbean fusion.

hand-trained the kitchen and checks back

ple find the layered flavors excessive

—though,

palate

oddly,

in regularly;

and

Cindy Hut-

reflects

what she

Some peo-

and even confusing, others love the byplay on the

none of the heat

is

Miami Vice-worthy. There's

live

music for

dancing or just drinking Thursday through Saturday.

PALENA

iririrVi

MODERN AMERICAN

|

EXPENSIVE

3529 Connecticut Avenue,

|

QUALITY

NW; (202)

Reservations Recommended

When

pay lot

Bar

Full

service

Wine

VALUE

|

•••

|

ZONE 7

to go Anytime Entree price $II-$3I;

course, $52; 4-course, $59; 5-course, $66

rating ***i/2 Friendliness rating

••••'/2

537-9250 3-

Payment VISA, MC, AMEX, DC, D Service

***y2 Metro

selection

Cleveland Park Parking Street,

Good Dress

Business, casual

Disabled

access Good Customers Local up-and-comers; connected out-of-towners

Dinner

Tuesday-Saturday, 5:30-10 p.m.

Setting and atmosphere lean, easy,

Deceptively low-key from the sidewalk, this

is

a long,

cream-colored space leading back from a chic front lounge to a subtle garden

that provides a pleasant light over the banquets.The a

the front (another dual-menu restaurant); dinner

is

la

carte

menu

Is

available only in

either three, four, or five fixed-

price courses.

House

specialties

The menus

are seasonal, and also market-driven, but

examples of the kitchen's work: Daring and generally ster and beet salad, rabbit rolled

around

among

delightful presentions such as lob-

a quail egg with greens stuffing; venison loin

paired with braised short ribs or veal cheeks with sweetbreads; sauteed skate, or

pig's

ears en croquette (which points out the chef's unusually broad repertoire).

Other recommendations gamey squab; red snapper

in

Carefully tended duck breast or

sometimes sweet-

aThai-inflected broth; meaty crab salad. Ravioli stuffed with

3

1

8

oxtail,

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

almonds,

raisins

and spinach; housemade pasta with duck ragu.

Summary and comments

Chef and co-owner Frank Ruta has one of

impressive kitchen resumes, starting at the River Club, Obelisk, and Provence

and

his

D.C.'s

most

White House and working through the

—hence the

free eclecticism of his combinations.

He

co-owner, the equally prominent pastry chef Ann Amernick, bought what had

been one of the previous Greenwood

how smoothing are desirable

in

sites

and actually upscaled the food while some-

the atmosphere, replacing personality with repose. (Both, of course,

The one quirk

dining circles.)

is

the one-price-fits-all entree

**•

PERSIMMON MODERN AMERICAN

sizing.

MODERATE

|

|

QUALITY****

7003 Wisconsin Avenue, Chevy Chase; (30

)

VALUE***

|

|

ZONE OA I

654-9860

1

When

Reservations Recommended

to go Weeknights Entree range $ 7-$25 Service rating **i/2 Friendliness rating ***i/2

Payment VISA, MCAMEX, DC Metro Bethesda Parking Street

1

(metered), pay lots

Bar Beer and wine Wine selec-

Good Customers

tion Small but good Dress Business, informal Disabled access

Older suburban couples, young conservative professionals

Lunch Monday-Saturday,

I

1

:30 a.m.-2 p.m.

Dinner Monday-Saturday, 5:30-

A

Setting and atmosphere tions with

ruby-ripe

House

p.m.; Sunday, closed

1

real storefront,

which has survived various incarna-

pressed-tin ceiling remarkably intact,

its

name and

now

sponged to match

exotically

its

given a "brocade" glitter with clusters of gilt-frame mirrors.

A

specialties

trio of tartares: tuna, salmon,

and ceviche; barbecue chicken

pot stickers with mango salsa and black beans; wasabi-fried oysters; duck confit with frageolets;

mushroom and

blue cheese-stuffed

ravioli;

crabcakes; pecan crusted rack of

lamb; shiitake and hoisin crusted salmon.

Other recommendations

That retro

mashed pota-

favorite, roast chicken with

toes and vegetable ragout; grilled pork porterhouse with fried plantains; bouillabaisse, crab cakes and

fish in general.

A homemade

Entertainment and amenities

Summary and comments actually

This simple but smart

more mod/Med/fusion

—might

Chef-owner Damian Salvatore assured and

more

smoothly than

in

interesting

early years)

pate with the bread basket.

is

fill

little

eclectic

American

the Georgetown-chic gap

in

the time. And the kitchen (which seems to run

extremely presentation

INEXPENSIVE I

2029 P

|

irirVi

QUALITY***

NW; (202)

Street,

more

savvy.

PIZZERIA PARADISO PIZZA

bistro

Bethesda.

another Washington chef whose cooking gets more

is

all

well

|

VALUE****

223- 245; 3282 1

M

Stret,

(

ZONES

5

NW; (202)

AND 6

337- 245 1

Reservations Not accepted When to go Anytime, except around 8-10 p.m. Entree

range $9-$ 7 Payment VISA, MC, 1

DC

Service rating

***

***

Metro

Wine

selection Limited Dress Casual Disabled access

(P Street)

tourist, student

Dupont

Circle

Parking

Friendliness rating

Street, pay lot

Bar Beer and wine

No Customers

Local,

Restaurant Profiles

Open

Monday-Friday,

I

1:30 a.m.-

p.m.; Saturday,

I

1

I

I

319 noon-

a.m.-midnight; Sunday,

10 p.m.

Setting and atmosphere with trompe capitals of

I'oeil

As

tiny as this

papier-mache veggies;

a

House olives,

smokestack; and walls (a sly

Pizzas with four cheeses, or "the atomica" with salami, black

specialties

and potato with pesto sauce and parmesan. Thick sandwiches made with focaccia, including roast

lamb and roasted veggies; multimeat

Summary and comments good

pizzeria, but pizza this

extra-virgin olive

oil

has real attitude larger than

them out

Street,

It

may seem extravagant to

—shoveled

in

blush.

It's

next-door

sibling.

marks to a

moment

last

just an irresistible

A new

New Wave

nonchalance.

location

is

them

now open

MODERATE

|

NW; (202)

1

AMEX. DC, D Service informal

Lunch

QUALITY

|

•••

VALUE

|

room; not accepted

in chili

7; prix fixe: lunch. $20, dinner,

rating

lots (validated)

*** Bar

|

ZONE

3

service

Wine

11:30

a.m.-2 p.m. Chill

to go Lunch

*•*

selection

Local, tourist, bar:

When

bar

$25-$37 Payment VISA. MC,

Friendliness rating

Full

Disabled access Excellent Customers Monday-Friday,

••

638-4444; www.redsage.com

Essential for dining

Entree range $12-$

Parking Pay

3282

**

605 14th Street.

ter

and

in

at

337-1245.

RED SAGE NEW SOUTHWESTERN

Reservations

—makes

pizza. This restaurant also

Obelisk, Pizzeria Paradiso shoehorns

at an astonishing but validating rate.

NW; (202)

give such high

and out of the deep oven, with a splash of

almost a re-definition of

—not commercial camp,

its

pork with hot peppers.

Italian subs;

and a handful of cheese tossed on at the

most American takeout

M

like a

Amish hexes around the

and hot peppers; zucchini, eggplant, peppers, and fresh buffalo mozzarella; mus-

Other recommendations

rolls

like

the mass-market competition, perhaps?).

sels (surprisingly, yes);

No

hilariously decorated,

is, it's

woodburning stove painted

semi-Impressionistic painted cardboard pizzas

comment on

upper room

stone walls opening at the "ruined roof" to a blue sky; columns with

Metro Metro CenGood Dress Dressy,

gourmet mag groupies

Monday-Saturday,

a.m.-

11:30

S

Dinner Monday-Friday. 5:30-10 bar:Sunday, 4:30-1

I

p.m.; Saturday,

5-10:30 p.m.; Sunday, 5-10 p.m.

A

Setting and atmosphere

fun and funny $5-million-plus

New Wave

slant

Santa Fe chic, with cast-iron lizard door handles, plaster clouds with "lightning" chili bar.

and $100,000 worth of

House

specialties

glass

Roasted red

a

in

on the

etched with campfires and broncos.

chile,

pecan-crusted chicken breast with plantain

and black bean empanadas, wilted chard, pico de

mostarda on

Chili

p.m.

gallo in a shallot sauce; elk loin

bed of mushrooms, turnips and zucchini; pan-seared salmon

paillard

with

a ragout of butternut squash; peppered yellowfin tuna (served at lunch with roasted

portobello

mushroom topped

greens, red pepper, and chive

Other recommendations

with blue cheese, carrot, zucchini, yellow squash,

field

oils).

The

Cubana Torta

(griddled

pork

loin

with

ham

and cheese); blue cornmeal oysters. Upstairs, the Border Cafe has a choice of fascinating

320

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

salads, small chic pizzas,

and at dinner breaks out into updated enchiladas (mushrooms

and goat cheese), quesadilla (portobello, chipotle, portobello),tacos (catfish or salmon).

Head

BBQ

brisket), burritos (spinach

to the restaurant on "F" Street offers three types of

special daily sandwiches, sal-

chili,

and sweets (202) 638-4448.

ads,

Summary and comments come way down

has

Sad to

say, this still-famous

the world as far as

in

Marou Outtara, who gave

kitchen

its

best run since founder

it its

is

Mark

(and

and Red Sage seems to be

adrift,

entertaining) spot

still

concerned. Longtime chef Miller

was

NW;

Signatures (801 Pennsylvania Avenue,

at the very promising

charge,

in

|

is

now

(202) 628-5900);

over-priced and inconsistent. Best bet; eat upstairs.

***

RESTAURANT EVE MODERN AMERICAN I

and

market adjacent

for the border, indeed.The

EXPENSIVE

|

QUALITY

***V2

|

VALUE****

|

ZONE

II

10 South Pitt Street, Alexandria; (703) 706-0450

When to go Anytime

Reservations Recommended menus, $65-$90 rating

Dress

***

Entree range $2l-$28;Tasting

Payment VISA, MC, AMEX Service

Parking

Bar

Street, pay lot

Business, dressy casual

****

rating

service

Full

Wine

Friendliness

selection Very good

Disabled access Very good Customers Local

foodies,

special occasion diners

Lunch Monday-Friday, :30 a.m.-2 p.m. Dinner Bistro, Monday-Saturday, 5:30-10 I

1

p.m.; Tasting

Room, Tuesday-Saturday,

5:30-10 p.m.

Setting and atmosphere the

two rooms

—the

An

handsome

unusually

more formal

Tasting

Room

place, with a pleasant bar

and the a

la

carte Bistro

and

(itself

a

smart-looking combination of exposed brick and brocade swag), separated by a mutual fireplace

and both with views of the patio

—

plus

outdoor seating

in

good weather and

even beyond that a garden that can be used for private parties or functions.The hallway also

does double duty as the wine

House

specialties

Among

cellar.

Tasting

huckleberries and Swiss chard; lobster

Room

options,

creme

Muscovy breast with

brulee; venison with

figs

foie gras,

and hazelnuts;

gnocchi with roasted acorn squash and toasted pumpkin seeds; Dungeness crab bisque;

salmon with golden beets and bacon; wild mushroom napoleon.

Other recommendations

From the

a

la

carte Bistro menu, braised lamb shank

with baby turnips; salt-baked prawns; potato crusted cod with olives, tomatoes and aioli;

wild Scottish salmon roasted cauliflower and

Entertainment and amenities dotted deviled

quail's

Roma

beans.

Unusually alluring amuse bouches such as caviar-

eggs on brioche.

Summary and comments

Owners

Cathal Arnstrong, longtime chef at Bistro

Bis,

and wife Meshelle, a veteran of Citronelle's front room, know that

if

then

also a local star, vet-

detail

is

style.

(Sommelier/general manager Todd Thrasher

eran of Signatures and Cafe Atlantico.) This

menu

is

the latest

establishments (actually three, as the bar has

its

proponent of organic and sustainable farming.The Bistro the name; and though the chef

is

in

is

style

is

everything,

Washington's trendy two-

own

light fare), as well as a

not an informal

cafe, despite

Irish-born, entrees such as the braised

lamb shank,

is

—

C Restaurant Profiles bouillabaisse, and

haps a

little

sweetbreads show

But he earns

The

cutely divided not only by course but by mythology:

"Creation," the second

all

Room menu

French flair.The Tasting

off his

it.

fish

course

is

321

first

"Ocean," the meat and fowl "Earth and

For sheer luxury, go for chef's nine-course degustation

per-

is

course

is

Sky," etc.

menu and

leave

the choices to the kitchen.

ROCKLANDS BARBECUE

irVi

INEXPENSIVE

|

QUALITY**':

|

VALUE***

|

ZONES

|

5.

IB. II

I

NW; (202)

333-2558 25 South Quaker Lane, Alexandria; (703) 778-9663 4000 North Fairfax Drive, Arlington; (703) 528-9663; vvww.rocklands.com 24 8 Wisconsin Avenue. 1

Reservations Not accepted

When

to go Afternoon,

dinner

late

Entree range

Payment VISA, MC, AMEX Service rating **'/2 Friendliness rating *** Metro (Arlington) Clarendon Parking Limited street meters Bar None Wine selection None Dress Casual Disabled access No Customers Locals $5-$20; Market price higher

Open

Georgetown: Monday-Friday,

day.

a.m.-9 p.m. A/exondr/o: Monday-Saturday,

I

I

Arlington: day,

I

Monday-Tuesday,

1:30 a.m.-

1

I

1:30 a.m.- 10 p.m.; Saturday.

1:30 a.m.-9 p.m.;

and Saturday.

p.m.; Friday

I

I

I

I

I

a.m.- 10 p.m.; Sun-

I

a.m.-9 p.m.; Sunday,

Wednesday,

I

I

I

a.m.-8 p.m.

1:30 a.m.- 10 p.m.;

1:30 a.m.-midnight; Sunday,

I

I

Thursa.m.-9

I

p.m.

Setting and atmosphere

room

is

taken up by

Its

most of the

small storefront size, and the fact that

pit space, kitchen,

and

grill,

mean

that this

is

authentically a stand-

up or bolt-and-carryout spot. There's only one communal service table and eight stools at the

window

dishes.The primary decor

is

counter, and the food supplied by the

two

is

served

wall cabinets of trendy

super-hot chile sauces, chutneys. etc. The Arlington branch

is

really

House

specialties

sandwiches

Car

almost

(actually

pepper and

the kitchen partner

of an auto-dealership-turned-billiard parlor called, appropriately, the

Chopped-pork

or

six

burger-shop paper

in

Pool.

everything

including the marinated sliced lamb loin, trout, and catfish, but excepting the ribs and

chicken wings,

is

served as a sandwich); racks fish

Other recommendations

Most of the

(mustard, turnip,

etc., available

in

in

quarter, half and

pints

although there are those

dish, perhaps,

Park, after

sizes;

and

fre-

old-style side dishes, such as the greens

and quarts), potato

salad, slaw, fresh

beans, and red beans and rice are very good. The corn pudding Stuffing,

full

such as salmon and swordfish.

quently "exotic" meats or fresh

who swear

is

more

like

green

Stovetop

by the Caesar salad: a yuppie-ish side

and one that seems to go strangely with the crew, but

hey. this

is

Glover

all.

Summary and comments style") pit barbecue.

Amid

the

tidal

wave of authentic (and only "authentic-

Rocklands might be considered a nouveau-retro meat counter,

attracting both barbecue heads and food trendies.

stocks a huge selection of super-hot chile sauces taste-testing

— but he

also likes to serve up

Owner

—and

John Snedden not only

sets out several at a time for

meats more interesting than the usual

pig.

He's experimented with elk. boar, venison, and ostrich, and he often throws out a

whole carcass

(of whatever) as

happy-hour

fare.

322

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

***

SEA CATCH MODERATE

SEAFOOD 1

054

3

QUALITY

|

••••

NW; (202)

price higher

When

to go Early Entree range $IO-$32, market

Payment VISA, MC,AMEX, DC, D Service

rating irirVi Parking Validated for

Lunch Monday-Saturday, noon-3

hours Bar

Full

rating

service

Friendliness

Good

selection

Local, business

p.m.; Sunday, closed

Sleekly elegant, with a white marble

Setting and atmosphere

room with

***

Wine

p.m.

Dinner Monday-Saturday, 5:30- 10

dining

3

Disabled access Good Customers

Casual, business

wood

ZONES

|

337-8855; www.seacatchrestaurant.com

Reservations Recommended

Dress

••••

VALUE

|

I

St Street,

1

good weather,

fireplace, and, in

raw

bar, polished-

a balcony overlooking the

Chesapeake & Ohio Canal.

House

Jumbo lump crab cakes with vegetable

specialties

trout, flounder,

which

flown

gumbo;

is

A

personal "off the

when

only available

the raw bar

isn't

menu"

of the day.

fish

favorite

the lobster

is

too busy. Fresh stone crab claws

from Maine are another seasonal treat.Also check for happy hour

in

Summary and comments larly ideal

for people

who

This

suffer

is

from

is

specials.

an underrated seafood establishment particu-

fear of frying. The key here

Shively likes to play with his presentations, but not to the point

texture of the shellfish

obscured. Those

who

Chef Jeff

balance:

is

where the

prefer the straighter stuff

quality

grilled;

in

the kitchen, proof of the chef's dedication to freshness) brushed with

no and

—

list

it's

much more

interesting than the usual fish

grill's

selec-

However, for dedicated carnivores, the Thai-marinated roast chicken or the steaks

are very dependable. There

is

also a

steamed lobster and

shellfish

dinner for $30.

**V^

1789 MODERN AMERICAN 1

is

oil

or an updated surf-and-turf of tenderloin and crab-stuffed mushrooms. Ask for

guidance with the wine tion.

or

may order

lobster steamed, grilled, broiled, baked, or poached; a variety of fresh fish (there

freezer

lin-

rainbow

grilled

mahi mahi, Chilean sea bass, swordfish and always whole

Other recommendations Sashimi,

poached lobster

slaw;

guine; seared tuna au poivre; chef Shively's Louisiana seafood

226 36th Street,

|

EXPENSIVE

NW; (202)

QUALITY

|

965- 789;

Reservations Recommended

1

When

••••

wvm.

Disabled access

Full

Wine

service

No Customers

Dinner Monday-Thursday, 6- 10

|

VALUE

•••

ZONES

|

789restaurant.com

to go Anytime Entree range $l8-$38

Payment VISA, MC.AMEX, DC, D Service Parking Valet Bar

1

rating

***

selection

Friendliness rating

Good Dress

***

Jacket required

Local, business, tourist

p.m.; Friday,

6-

1

I

p.m.; Saturday,

5:30-

1

I

p.m.;Sunday,

5:30-10 p.m.

Setting and atmosphere

A

meticulously maintained Federal townhouse with

blazing fireplaces, polished silver, and historic poise; a certain formality

is

implied rather

than expressed.

House

specialties

Rockfish with carrots and fennel; crispy whole red snapper

with Chinese black bean-sauce; bacon-crusted salmon with

lentils,

spinach and pinot

Restaurant Profiles

323

noir sauce; grilled barbecued duck breast with greens; venison medallions with black

trumpet mushrooms. Several of these dishes come from the "tasting greatest-hits

menu from

table," a sort of

the kitchen's history, available together for $60 or a

Other recommendations

carte.

la

Rack of lamb with feta-flavored potato au

gratin;

endive salad with duck confit and bleu cheese; oyster stew with walnuts and ham.

Summary and comments cases regional

and reclaim

it's

money

grilled quail

In

of a culinary tender of the flame than an innovator, which suits

more

show-

availability,

care and respect.The kitchen aims to re-create

with oysters and bacon, venison medallions, dishes — —and update them rather than invent novel treatments. other words, classic

rack of lamb

This menu, inspired by seasonal

game and seafood with

clientele.

However, under the direction of chef

moving with increasing confidence into

middle ground,

a

its

old-

Ris Lacoste, the kitchen still

is

but fresh. Vege-

classic

tarian options are especially intriguing.

SUSHI-KO

iri^irii^Vi

MODERATE

JAPANESE

NW; (202)

Reservations Recommended

ment VISA,

MCAMEX

VALUE

|

••••

|

ZONE

5

Business, casual

Lunch

333-4 87 1

When

to go Anytime Entree range $l5-$23 Pay-

•*•

Service rating

Street, valet (dinner only)

Dress

••••Vi

QUALITY

|

I

2309 Wisconsin Avenue,

Bar

**•

Friendliness rating

Parking

Wine selection Good, particularly No Customers Local, ethnic

service

Full

Disabled access

French

Tuesday-Friday, noon-2:30 p.m.

Dinner Monday-Thursday, 6-10:30

p.m.; Friday, 6-1

p.m.; Saturday, 5:30-1

I

p.m.;

I

Sunday, 5:30-10 p.m.

A

Setting and atmosphere carefully unfrilly;

House

more

Any

specialties

porary, from

sleek twist on classic sushi bar decor downstairs,

modern

obviously

—

If

—

upstairs.

caviar,

fish,

contem-

both cooked and raw,

and sometimes unexpected American

you want to see what he can do, order the four-course ($40) or six-course

($65) tasting menu:You'll be

full

Other recommendations and toro

fish liver)

non-tradition-bound

involving and often combining

Chef KojiTerano,

with seaweeds, wild greens, grains, herbs, touches.

i.e.,

of the seasonal "small dishes," either traditional or

but not stuffed. Sushi, especially seasonal dishes such as

(fatty tuna); broiled eel; soft-shell crabs;

octopus

ankimo (monk-

salad; grilled fish;

spring for real wasabi.

Summary and comments

Thanks to

its

unusual seasonal dishes, Sushi-Ko attracts

made

a broad, generally knowledgeable, and fairly affluent crowd. This has

owner Daisuke Utagawa and traditional

and improvisational

his

—

team to

^that

is,

offer a

more

based on market

sonal factors. However, while the "ordinary" sushi

make dinner somewhat more waste

it

is

pricey than a meal at

it

possible for

flexible style of cooking, availability

both

and traditional sea-

reasonable, those specials can

most other

on someone who's happy with grocery-store California

sushi bars, so don't roll.

Utagawa

is

also

intrigued with the notion of matching French wines and Japanese food, and offering higher-quality sakes.

324

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

**

TABARD INN FRENCH/ITALIAN

1739

N

MODERATE

|

Street,

NW; (202)

QUALITY

|

When

ment VISA, MCAMEX, DC, D Good Dress

VALUE

|

•••

|

ZONE 6

to go Anytime Entree range $ 0-$32 Pay1

Service rating

Dupont

Farragut North or

selection

1/2

785- 277; www.tabardinn.com

Reservations Recommended

Metro

••

***

Friendliness rating

Disabled access

Business, informal

****

Wine No Customers Busi-

Parking Street Bar

Circle

Full

service

ness, locals

Breakfast Monday-Friday, 7-10

Brunch

Saturday,

I

Lunch Monday-Friday, :30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. p.m.; Saturday, 6Dinner Sunday-Friday, 6I

1

1

Setting and atmosphere a courtyard at ing

its

rooms with

and Sunday, 7-9:30 a.m.

a.m.; Saturday

a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Sunday, 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

I

heart (as

0:30 p.m.

1

This almost theatrically old-English jumble of all

good

rooms

has

English country inns should), a series of small din-

surprisingly light-hearted

decor

(a

garden-path mural up the

stairs,

for

example), and a wood-lined library with couches and a fireplace, ideal for a winter afternoon, cocktail before dinner, or after-dinner cordial.

House

mushroom and

Grilled rare tuna; wild

specialties

marinated ostrich steak; roasted cod; seafood stew;

smoked mozzarella tomatoes and carmelized

Summary and comments

gone through

bistro style, the Tabard has is

a

erratic;

little

but

Although

it's still

a favorite

onion

vidalia

it's

fava

grilled

currently

bean lasagna;

tart;

baby spinach

its

tone and quality

picturesque setting.

•**

TABERNA DEL ALABARDERO VERY EXPENSIVE

SPANISH

|

QUALITY

•••

salad.

a sort of hearty eclectic

in

a series of chefs, and so the

spot thanks to

grilled

scallops with fettucine;

|

VALUE

•••

|

ZONE

3

I

1776

I

Street,

NW (entrance on

18th Street); (202) 429-2200;

wv/w.albardero.com

When

Reservations Recommended

to go Anytime for

tapas, lunch for fixed-price

meals Entree range Lunch, $ 8-$24 and dinner, $27-$37; 1

chef's tasting

daily vegetarian

menu, $65;

Payment VISA, MCAMEX, rating •** Metro Farragut

menu, $85; fixed lunch and dinners, $42-$55

DC, D, JCB Service rating **** Friendliness West or Farragut North Parking Free next door Bar Very good Dress Jacket and

tie

Full

suggested Disabled access

service

Wine

selection

Good Customers

Local,

embassy, ethnic

Lunch Monday-Friday, 1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10:30 p.m.; I

Friday and Saturday, 5:30-1

I

p.m.; Sunday,

closed

Setting and atmosphere

Lace curtain and velvet old-world elegance, with ornate

moldings and a magnificent private

House

specialties

mushroom

room

(like a

chapel)

in

the center

Luscious lobster paella at night, as well as traditional

paellas; squid in its

own

ink,

and wild

roast leg of lamb; veal chop with red wine sauce;

7

Restaurant Profiles octopus with peppers; baked meat

Other recommendations dozen seafood

at lunch ($42)

Summary and comments One

nified.

a

pies.

Daily specials, particularly game, and at least a half-

specials every day; quail or pheasant; halibut with mussels.

menus

fixed-price

alternative

This

a very old-world-style restaurant and quite dig-

is

to dabble inTaberna's riches via the tapas menu, a selection of

is

dozen smaller-sized dishes (and you can

linger as long as

you

like). it's

special-events trend, with wine dinners and imported guest chefs regional cuisine with monkfish

in

menu and

may be up

ratings

There

is

also a

list

also getting into the

who show

off Spanish

cream of pumpkin porcini soup,

saffron ragout,

With the departure of both longtime chef Josu Zubikarai and

etc.

his assistant/successor

for review.

***i/2

TAKO GRILL INEXPENSIVE

JAPANESE

There are

and dinner ($55).

of a dozen sherries by the glass and red or white sangria.And

Enrique Sanchez, the

325

QUALITY ***i/2

|

VALUE***

|

ZONE

|

I

OA

I

7756 Wisconsin Avenue, Bethesda; (30

When

Reservations Recommended

)

652-7030

1

to go Before 7 p.m. Entree range $6-$

Payment VISA, MC, AMEX Service rating Metro Bethesda or Medical Center Parking

****

Street, public garages, free lot (dinner

Bar Wine and beer Wine selection House Dress

only)

access Very good Customers

Lunch Monday-Saturday,

I

1

***

Friendliness rating

Casual, informal

Disabled

Local, business

:30 a.m.-2 p.m.

1

Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10

and Saturday, 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Sunday,

p.m.; Friday

5-9:30 p.m.

A

Setting and atnnosphere black,

and

scarlet,

but with deft

cool, hip, very I990s-Tokyo

room, a study

white,

in

touches (the flower arrangements) and almost

artistic

hallucinatory "script" versions of Japanese verses hung on the walls. (The chefs, particularly

dened

—check

the younger ones, are very Tokyo-stylish, too hair.)

The

adjoining sake bar (where you

out the bleached and red-

may order food

as well)

is

particularly

smart.

House

specialties

grilled teriyaki king

tempura

Soft-shell crabs

fried

salmon; broiled freshwater eel on

and chopped into hand

rice; (Sushi bar) sushi

rolls;

assortment

of tuna, yellov/tail, salmon, flounder, crabstick, shrimp, seawater eel and shad roe; grilled

whole red snapper or rainbow

Summary and comments

trout; glazed grilled eel; tiny candied

Of the

whole octopus.

four best Japanese restaurants

in

the area, each

has a different slant: Makoto's (a very small hideaway on Macarthur Boulevard) sic;

Sushi-Ko's cutting-edge; Kaz'a influenced by the de-construction

Tako's cool

—

especially thanks to the addition of the sake bar. In addition to

the best and freshest sushi and sashimi robotai,

The

line

on which whole

fish,

rice,

large shrimp,

of customers waiting to get

the surest evidence of Tako's

and a

daily

in

in

the area.Tako has a hot-stone

and

is

clas-

movement; and

some

of

grill

called a

a variety of fresh vegetables are

cooked.

—two recent expansions notwithstanding—

quality. Weekday

is

lunches are a business special: soup, salad,

entree (orange roughy, chicken teriyaki, ginger pork), plus six pieces of

rolled sushi for $9.

And

since often several of the waitresses are vegetarian or vegan.

326

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

Tako

especially well

is

equipped to

customers with

satisfy

special diets.

**

lARATHAI INEXPENSIVE

THAI

|

QUALITY ••1/2

|

•••

VALUE

ZONES

|

OA,

I

I

OB.

II

A,

II

I

4828 Bethesda Avenue, Bethesda; (301) 657-0488 12071 Rockville Pike (Montrose Crossing), Rockville; (301) 231-9899

4001 North Fairfax Drive, Ballston; (703) 903-4999 750 -C Leesburg Pike,Tysons Corner; (703) 506-9788 1

226 Maple Avenue West,Vienna; (703) 255-2467 Reservations Helpful

When

MCAMEX, DC. D

VISA.

ing Free

Bar

lot

abled access

Full

Fair

1

Wine

service

Customers

*•*

Friendliness rating ***i/2 Parl<-

selection House Dress Informal, casual Dis-

Ethnic, local

Lunch Monday-Friday. :30 a.m.-3 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday. noon-3:30 Dinner Sunday-Thursday. 5-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday. 5-1 p.m. I

Payment

to go Weekdays Entree range $10-$ 4

Service rating

p.m.

1

I

Setting and atmosphere

"Tara" has nothing to do with the Old South.

and these charming restaurants are marine blue and swimming

"blue."

creatures and lacquered tables.The original Vienna branch that

a

it

seems

cheerfully

more mixed

crowd to

20- and 30-something

specialties

Whole

its

quite small, but so friendly

cheeky murals, window-box

the big Rockville branch

is

—the

and

bar,

gold-and-glitter look.

either fried with chile sauce or steamed

fish,

mushrooms and

leaves with black

means

crowded rather than annoyingly so.The Bethesda branch draws

chrome touches.The newest

House

is

It

in fantastical

banana

in

ginger; soft-shell crabs; "wild" lamb curry; red curry

beef; green eggplant curry with chicken.

Other recommendations with slaw

Nua sawan

try the "heavenly wings" (chicken

tizer,

stuffed with crab

dried but tender beef, fried and served a light meal or shared appe-

drummettes scraped back

and green onion, then battered and

Summary and comments at the

(thin,

—sort of Thai barbecue); honey-glazed duck. For Too much success

a

is

into rattle shapes,

fried).

two-edged sword: while the

fare

Vienna and Bethesda branches remains consistently good, some of the other

branches, notably Rockville, are

more

erratic. The

group also owns the promising Tara

Asian, near the Rockville Metro, which serves pan-Asian fare.

***

TASTE OF SAIGON VIETNAMESE

[

INEXPENSIVE

QUALITY

|

•••

|

VALUE

••••

ZONES

|

I

OA,

I

I

410 Hungerford Drive, Rockville; (301) 424-7222 8201 Greensboro Drive, McLean; (703) 790-0700; www.tasteofsaigon.com Reservations Accepted

When

MCAMEX,

D

VISA,

Metro ited

I

I

(Rockville) Rockville

Dress

Open

CB, DC,

Informal

to go Anytime Entree range $8-$ 5 1

Service rating

Parking Free

lot

***

Bar

Full

service

Disabled access Good Customers

Monday-Thursday,

I

I

Payment

Friendliness rating

Wine

****

selection Lim-

Local, business, ethnic

a.m.- 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday,

I

I

a.m.-

1

I

p.m.; Sunday,

a.m.-9:30 p.m.

Setting and atmosphere

An

intriguingly

angular, sleek, gray-and-black-lacquer

Restaurant Profiles room

tucked into the back of a plain office building.

slyly

House

specialties

Steamed whole rockfish served with

for rolling up; choice of seafoods scallops,

or shrimp

—

house

in a

pho and other noodle soups

—whole

Patio dining

The

in

stick to the

steamed

fish

specials here are interesting dishes;

Some

as

if

the

of the sauces are quite heavy, but

if

or bountiful soup choices, a Vietnamese dinner can be a

dream.

iririrVi

PORTUGUESE

|

MODERATE

QUALITY***

|

|

VALUE****

8401 Connecticut Avenue, Chevy Chase; (30

When

Reservations Recommended

ment AMEX, VISA, MC, DC Parking Free

lot

Bar

service

Full

Lunch Monday-Friday,

I

fireplace,

1

***

selection

Named

for a medieval fortress like

a dungeon),

—

it's

fries," really

***

Business, casual Dis-

I

town

made

p.m. (a

good pun, con-

bright by sunny paint, a

a sort of indoor patio with bar.

tureen of mussels with tomato-sweet pepper broth; veal

chops with sherry; clams with chorizo and prosciutto; the"french

Dress

Fair

and Saturday, 5-1

p.m.; Friday

heavy artisan pottery, and glass sconces

A

Friendliness rating

Local, business

the basement of a bank,

specialties

I

1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

Setting and atmosphere in

ZONE OA

|

652-8684

to go Anytime Entree range $ 5-$30 Pay-

Wine

Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10

it's

1)

Service rating

abled access Good Customers

House

it's

but the seafood

fair,

TAVIRA

sidering

quail;

good weather.

as intrigued as the diners. The beef dishes are only

and game bird entrees are particularly good.

dieter's

pepper sauce.

Cornish hen stuffed with pork; boneless roast

Summary and comments

you

and vegetables

rice crepes

lobster (up to four pounds), soft shells,

appetizer or entree sizes; rich venison curry.

in

Entertainment and amenities

were

live

special black

Other recommendations

kitchen

327

more

like

Other recommendations

homemade

grilled

lamb chops. Don't miss

potato chips.

Roasted red peppers stuffed with goat cheese; seafood

stew; traditional salt cod shredded with straw potatoes, onions, and egg; spicy grilled

chicken

piri-piri; paella-like

arrozValenciana.

Sunnmary and comments itself

indispensable

in

a

Although not terribly

visible

of traditional Mediterranean and navy-trade fare.

It's

also a

"vinho verde," the "green wine" of Portugal, so called for fine

to

traffic, Tavira

neighborhood hungry for good food and a

complement to the sometimes

oil-

city

good

its light,

MODERATE

|

QUALITY

I

1909

K

Street,

NW; (202)

making its

mix

place to test out

youthful quality and a

and garlic-strong food.

***i/2

TEATRO GOLDONI ITALIAN

is

ready for

***

[

VALUE

***

|

ZONE

3

955-9494; vw/w.teatrogoldoni.com

Reservations Recommended

When

to go

Lunch; late

$l6-$36 PaymentVISA,MC,AMEX,DC Service rating

dinner

***

Entree range

Friendliness rating

328

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

*** Metro FarragutWest or Farragut North Parking Valet, pay lots Bar Full service Wine

selection Very good Dress Business, dressy, dressy casual Disabled access

Good Customers Lunch

Business, foodies

Monday-Friday,

I

:30 a.nn.-2 p.m.

1

Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10 Setting and atmosphere

p.m.; Friday

and Saturday, 5-1

Take the word "teatro" seriously:This

ting for a culinary performance. Mini-spots are trained stars;

own

And

"stages."

on the

is

a theatrical set-

plates like klieg lights

show behind

the huge mirror over the bar reveals the

booths are on their

p.m.

I

on

you; and the tables and

Not

you'd better be dressed for the part:

only

are the other customers watching you, but the eyeholes of the masks on the wall and

those of the photographed models half carneval)

seem to be

the-top, depending

House

the rest of the decor, half

(like

evaluating you. In other words,

it's

commedia

dell' arte,

either exhilarating or over-

on your mood.

specialties

Look

chop served

for earthy but not heavy flavors: roasted veal

with fingerling potatoes and wild

mushroom

sauce; lobster risotto; braised lamb shank

served over a cannellini bean puree; pan seared tuna "rare" served with sauteed zucchini

and carrots, and topped with balsamic vinegar sauce.

more

dishes, again

In

colder weather, expect comfort

riche than weighty: braises, stews, ragus, chicken and morel "casserole."

Other recommendations

If

roasted veal

with wild mushrooms, argula, truffle

Summary and comments

is

on the

specials,

go

good vegetarian options such

Also expect interesting risottos and

oil

straight for them.

penne pasta

as the

and shaved parmesan cheese.

Chef-owner

Fabrizio Aielli

on

is

eponymous

his third

Roberto Donna. However,

restaurant, and that after years at Galileo with

his particular

Venetian, and the squid and fried seafood dishes, such as the fritto misto, are

accent

is

among

his

personal prides. His flamboyance opens Teatro up to

some

inconsistencies;

but even the errors are interesting.

***

TENPENH MODERATE

PAN-ASIAN

QUALITY •••^/i

|

VALUE

|

•••

|

ZONE

3

I

1

00

1

NW; (202) 393-4500; www.tenpenh.com Recommended When to go Early dinner or bar Entree

Pennsylvania Avenue,

Reservations

$ 3-$28 Payment VISA, MC,AMEX, CB, DC, 1

rating

***

Valet, pay lots

Metro Bar

Full

D

Service rating

Federal Triangle or Archives/NavyMemorial/Penn Quater service Wine selection Very

good Dress

Disabled access Very good Customers Business, food

Lunch

Monday-Friday,

I

1

Setting and atmosphere outside, but inside,TenPenh

This is

like

is

a

p.m.; Friday

shopping

and bamboo place mats.

trip to

pick $40,000

House

Bangkok,

and Saturday, 5:30-1

p.m.

I

office building,

and

it

looks

one of those simple Asian jewelry boxes that opens

bronze flatware, teak lamps, curio trays as dessert ceiling,

trendies, media, pols

famous old law-firm

to reveal the subdued glitter of saffron and gold

the

Parking

Business, casual, dressy

:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

Dinner Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10:30

it

range

**** Friendliness

silk,

patined Buddhas,

And no wonder: The owners took

Hong Kong, Ho Chi Minh

hammered

buffets, incense coils dangling

City,

a

from

three-week

Macao, and Singapore to hand-

worth of furnishings.

specialties

Peking duck

roll;

Hong

Kong-style crispy catfish; curried lump

— 5

Restaurant Profiles

329

crabcakes; steamed shrimp- scallion dumplings; spicy wok-seared calamari; a sort of

tempura-fried California

signature Chinese

appetizers); grilled yellow

roll (all

with coconut milk;

stir-fry

smoked

fin

tuna,

udon noodle shrimp

spice/pecan-crusted halibut with port-ginger sauce; the

five

lobster with crispy fried spinach; red Thai curry prawns with

pineapple.

Other recommendations

Oysters with sake-pickled ginger granita (another

house-smoked salmon and wonton "Napoleon"; panko crusted

nature);

sig-

soft-shell crab

of the day.

ravioli; crispy fish

Entertainment and amenities

Great amuses bouche.such

as the Thai-spiked gaz-

pacho.

Summary and comments

The executive chef here

Coast, assisted by Clift Wharton; and this fun-fare

bazaar Both the appetizer and entree

ornate, mild to spicy, light to heavy; stalls

are

wine

list

like

lists

Jeff

Tunks, also of D.C.

a giant progressive dinner, only sitting

is

Bangkok, where the outdoor

a mogul's tent.

in

at the heart of

run the gamut from simple to

really like dining in

it's

is

handling of seafood

his fearless

Not

only

INEXPENSIVE

QUALITY***

|

I

800 King Farm Boulevard, No. Reservations Helpful but not

Payment Parking

VALUE****

|

125, Rockville; (301)

essential

Street, free lot

Bar

Full

Monday-Thursday,

I

1

|

ZONE

service

Wine

I

OB

258-8829

When to go Anytime

MC, AMEX Service rating

VISA,

abled access Good Customers

Open

the

••*

THAI FARM THAI

is

thoughtful, unusual, and affordable, there are several fine sakes to try as well.

***

Entree range $7-$

Friendliness rating

1

****

selection House Dress Casual Dis-

Families, locals

:30 a.m.-

p.m.; Friday

1

and Saturday,

I

1

:30 a.m.-l 0:30 p.m.;

Sunday, 5-10 p.m.

A

Setting and atmosphere a

pun

in

itself,

recently a working farm

with grasses and

House

is

—with murals

Yum

specialties

watercress, quick-fried leaves tossed with chicken, shrimp,

lime-chile sauce; fried calamari (scored, not ring-sliced); pattaya

in

hoy

pow

mussels; whole

fish.

Other recommendations

Green curry

sauce; steamed dumplings; spicy

meat

Summary and comments

Chef Vilai

frying,

vegetables; gang ped yang,

in

penang

Chivavibul, light,

who was

the original chef at Ben-

clean hand with both spices and curries

but her handling of seafood, especially scallops and squid (which

chefs tend to overcook),

is

MODERATE

many

particularly admirable.

TOSCA I

duck

salad.

jarong (profiled above), has a remarkably

ITALIAN

until

of farming on the walls and tabletops lacquered

red curry; panang sauces that are peanutty without being overwhelming;

in

chile-spiked

and with

panorama of Thai farming

the King Farm development which was

in

rice.

squid and cashews

seafood

sort of three-dimensional

as the restaurant

iririrVi |

QUALITY****

|

VALUE **i/2

|

ZONE

3

330

I

I

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

NW;(202) 367-

12 F Street

When

lots, valet

Bar

to go Lunch, late dinner Entree price DC, D Service rating ***i/2 Friendliness

MCAMEX,

$l8-$32 Payment VISA, rating ***'/2

990; www.toscadc.com

1

Reservations Recommended

Gallery Place/Chinatown Parking Street, pay

Metro Metro Center or

Wine

service

Full

Good Dress

selection

abled access Good Customers Business

Business, Friday casual Dis-

(especially power-lunchers), pre-theatre,

young trendy

Lunch Monday-Friday, 1:30 a.m-2:30 p.m. Dinner Sunday-Thursday, 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Friday and I

Setting and atmosphere

This

Saturday, 5:30-1

decor so cool many people

is

shades of gray and beige with only splashes of cream and teal effect of

making the dishes themselves seem more

go for the tasting menu, five or

House oli;

Octopus

specialties

fresh

thyme

six

vivid.

If

I

find

— but

p.m. it

cold

—stony

does have the

it

you are hungry for sensation,

courses for $85, vegetarian for $45.

salad with fennel

and artichokes; heirloom tomato

ravi-

with roasted lobster and green peas; milanese-style breaded

taglierini

chicken cutlet with arugola and parmesan cheese salad with oven-dried tomatoes; fettucini with veal

and duck

liver ragout;

Lamb shanks with buckwheat

polenta; black sea

bass roasted under fresh porcinis.

Other recommendations

Roasted lamb with marinated eggplant and red onions;

crab cake with sauteed green peas, carmelized vidalia onions and pine nut sauce; fresh

pea and housemade pork sausage risotto; choice of fresh

Summary and comments Tosca stands out. Lanfranconi

Lombard

is

D.C

Even

rich in chefs

is

accent. Lunch

is

newly-bustling restaurant neighborhood,

started out

another; this especially shows

in his

in

the Galileo

galley,

is

also a chef's table in the kitchen,

popular with Senator Ted Kennedy,

among

which

partic-

•**Vi

M ODERN AMERICAN 1

is

others, so reserve early and often.

294/

294

and Cesare

combinations but he has a uniquely

expensive but elaborate enough to be the meal of the day; try

the fast pre-set lunch for $25.There ularly

in this

who

grilled seafoods.

|

MODERATE

QUALITY

|

•••

VALUE

|

••••

|

ZONE

MB

Fairview Park Drive, Falls Church; (703) 270- 500 1

Reservations Strongly recommended

MCAMEX,

$23-$28 Payment VISA,

rating ***>/2 Parking Free

good Dress

Business, casual

lot,

When

to go Lunch, anytime Entree price

DC, CB Service rating

valet at night

Bar

Full

•**

Friendliness

service Wine selection Very

Disabled access Very good Customers Business, locals,

foodies, special occasion diners

Lunch Monday-Friday, :30 a.m-2 p.m. p.m.; Sunday, 5Dinner Monday-Saturday, 5:30I

1

1

Brunch

Sunday,

I

I

Setting and atmosphere

sculptures, Zen-like fish it

sparkles with

Floribbean blue and

House

specialties

p.m.

Extremely handsome, despite

building address: a three-story atrium, huge glass

Inside

1

a.m.- 1:30 p.m.

ponds and with stone

warm wood

tangerine linens

its

apparently staid office

windows and doors and even

patio, lake

(and sometimes firelight from the

and a vast U-shaped marble

Foie gras crusted with pistachios

glass

and fountain view to boot.

two

hearths),

bar.

(among other treatments);

— Restaurant Profiles salmon with

here bread

meat

sorrel; signature

tenderloin and roast is

lamb

wiener schnitzel or sweetbreads.And

a specialty, too. thanks to the chef's dad. ophthalmalogist-turned-baker

Mai Krinn: usually a half-dozen nickel to

pairings such as steak with braised beef cheeks,

veal tenderloin with

and

leg,

331

in

the basket, from Parmesan to sage to fennel, pumper-

sourdough.

Other recommendations Hot tempura-like seafood puffs; caramelized scallops mushroom ragu; quail with apples and bleu cheese; Alaskan black cod with honey

with

and soy Vegetables get unusually close attention here.

Entertainment and amenities

between courses; the

Palate cleansers

comes

bill

out "sweetened" with cotton candy, chocolates and house-made marshmallows.

Summary and comments restaurant his

in

partner

is

his

New York's

with

may

This

be, along with the Minibar, the

Washington. Chef and co-owner Jonathan Krinn

showy,

Gramercy Tavern and Union

prestigious

France.

in

(his ginger-

tartare) but never

It

shows

in

Remarkably, Krinn

his

is

on

his

resume

M

Street.

|

MODERATE

NW; (202)

which

is

stylish

own

and just a

pastry chef, too.

service

|

QUALITY

When

Circle or Farragut

Wine

Dinner Sunday-Thursday 5:30-10

1

****

lishment (disabled access as

is

its

1

0th anniversary, owners

and although

through the

new-Southern

office

this

Jeff

fish

grits;

with a crayfish-rice

style

lobby elevators),

souffle,

Sallie

it's

remarkably bright for

silk

magnolias and bold ceramics. flavors are hearty

or

light,

but the

roll,

veal

mustard seed-crusted tuna, pan-seared; pan-roasted monk-

fritter,

tasso ham,

mache

round-bone lamb steak with artichokes,

sweet potato

and

actually a below-stairs estab-

Revival as a Southern Living magazine: buttermilk walls,

Depending on the season, the

specialties

is

juxtapositions are always intriguing. Veal sweetbreads with a crisp lobster

cheeks over cheese

Bar

Street, garage, valet (dinner)

and Saturday 5:30-10:30 p.m.

p.m.; Friday

elegant green and blue upholstery, and displays of

House

***

Friendliness rating

local, tourist

To celebrate

a million-dollar facelift,

basement and

ZONE 6

|

1:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

I

Setting and atmosphere

a

VALUE****

selection Very good Dress Business, dressy, casual Disabled

Lunch Monday-Friday.

it

|

to go Anytime Entree range $ 2-$32 Pay-

North Parking

access Good Customers Business,

Buben gave

****V2

1

MC, AMEX, D Service rating

VISA,

Metro Dupont Full

little

and sided with tuna

like "lollipops"

659- 990; www.bistrobis.com

Reservations Recommended

ment

— but

as well

**•*

MODERN AMERICAN 990

boy

Gerard Pangaud and Alain Ducasse and

his style, too,

and sake-seared tuna skewered silly.

Pacific

VIDAUA 1

fun fine

former teacher, L'Academie de Cuisine director Pascal Dionot

as Gerard's Place (above) with Michelin stars

Michel Rostang

most

originally a local

is

salad,

olives,

and etoufee sauce; a Provencal-

and pork

smothered onions, turnip greens,

rib

chop pan-fried with

fried apples,

and lemon-orange

whiskey sauce at dinner, and a spiced-pork sandwich slow-cooked and served openface with toasted cornbread, avocado, and black bean-relish at lunch.

Other recommendations

Shrimp and

grits

is

the signature dish; pan-roasted hen

with fingerling potatoes; at lunchtime, cornmeal-crusted catfish with succotash of butterbeans, pearl onions, corn, bacon, and dumpling squash; buttermilk-fried chicken breast

332

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

with black-pepper gravy, fingerling potatoes, and green bean and butter pea salad.

Entertainment and amenities amuses bouches such

Complimentary wine

mushroom

as

Summary and comments

tastings,

Tuesday 5-7 p.m.;

boullion.

Executive Chef Jeff Buben and longtime on-site chef

Peter Smith have just shaken up their menu, picking native American ingredients based

on

flavor rather than tradition.

broader light

tastes.

The

Though the name

Southern, the

is

menu

is

fused with

luxuriant sauces aren't necessarily low-cal, but are served with a

touch.

***

WOO LAE OAK MODERATE

KOREAN

|

QUALITY ••••/2

VALUE****

|

|

MB

ZONE

I

1

500 South Joyce

Street, Arlington; (703)

52 -3706; www.woolaeoak.com 1

When

Reservations Accepted, suggested on weekends

range $IO-$20 Payment VISA,

***

rating

informal

Open

Parking Free

Disabled access

Every day,

lot

Bar

Wine

Casual,

California Asian, this freestanding section of an apart-

room on

a big, curving slice of a

stilts,

with modernized versions of

soy beef barbecue); spicy strips with spinach,

barbecue

grills built in.

— Korean shabu shabu—

Shin sun ro (a fancy hot pot

specialties

fish

stew

in

a pot;

bean sprouts, zucchini,

Other recommendations on

Friendliness

Dress

1

24 hours' notice); saeng sun jun (battered and

etables

Fair

Ethnic, local

traditional wood-slat-and-rice-paper decor.AII tables have

House

****

selection

1:30 a.m.- 0:30 p.m.

I

is

to go Anytime Entree

Service rating

service

Full

No Customers

Setting and atmosphere

ment complex

MCAMEX

rice with a

that requires

grilled fish); bulgoki (the familiar

sweet-

yook hwe bibimbap (marinated raw sesame

etc., in

Paijun, a scallion

oil);

boneless short

seafood crepe; sliced raw

hot pepper-chile paste on the

side; broiled red

rib

fish

sirloin

cubes.

and veg-

snapper; scallion,

seafood, and green pepper pancake; pan-fried meatballs coated with egg and flour

Woo

Summary and comments Korean cuisine

Lae

Oak

150,000 meals a year And for good reason:This

becuing (or

in

the case of the

made

of the dishes are

many hot-pot

first

—

dishes cost less at lunch. The

non-Asian diners

is

that

one

it's

real

it

is

so big

is

bar-

many

pieces,

either a meal or a first course for several.

disappointment about

ro.

this restaurant for

doubt that you know what you're

seriously; for example, even with the

be hit-or-miss whether you get your shin sun

—about 24

in

serves

not food to eat alone. The fun

is

that staffers frequently either

ordering or don't take

name it

dishes, dipping) with friends. Besides,

for two, and the sashimi appetizer

and cut Korean-style, meaning large

Many

widely considered the

is

the Washington area: Part of a small but international chain,

in

Note: At

24 hours' notice,

press time,Woo Lae

it

can

Oak was

negotiating to relocate to Tyson's Corner

ZAYTINYA MIDDLE EASTERN

i^i^-kVi |

70! Ninth Street,

Reservations

MODERATE

NW; (202)

QUALITY ***'/2

|

|

VALUE ***'/2

|

ZONE

3

638-0800

Available 5-6:30 p.m. only

dinner Entree range $l7-$23

When

to go Late lunch-early dinner;

Payment VISA, MC,AMEX Service

late

rating ***i/2

— Restaurant Profiles

333

Friendliness rating ***''2

Parking

Business, casual trendies,

Open

Metro Gallery Place/Chinatown or Metro Center Bar Full service Wine selection Good Dress Disabled access Good Custonners Business, foodies, young bar

Street, pay lot, valet at dinner

pre-MCI Center crowds

Sunday and Monday, and Saturday.

p.m.; Friday

I

1:30 a.m.-IO p.m.; Tuesday-Thursday.

I

A

Setting and atmosphere room, white and angular with stocked with

lit

I

1:30 a.m.-

1:30

1

:30 a.m.-midnight

1

high and airy but almost

big,

modern

art-minimalist

a soaring atrium-style ceiling, cut-through shelving walls

nooks and

candles, a long (and very busy) bar, half-hidden dining

a fireplace and a mezzanine overlooking the Manhattan-style

communal

table

niches,

the

in

center of the main dining room.

House

Lamb

specialties

cracked-wheat tartare;

mini-meatballs with cinnamon

feta-

and tomato-stuffed

and dried

oil

fruit;

beer and

quail with fingerling potatoes; crab

cakes with shaved fennel; flaming cheese with oyster, shiitake and cremeni mushrooms.

Other reconnmendations

Pork and orange-rind sausage; braised rabbit with

mussels with pistachios; giant favas with tomatoes and red onions; meat-

lentils; fried

stuffed mantj dumplings; squid in a variety of treatments.

Summary and comments which means "olive

oil"

in

Not "Middle

Turkish

—

Eastern"

Chef of the Year Jose Andres, already racking up

ApetJt

Atlantico,

launched

restaurant

between

in

Oyamel.The range

smart and

this

is

in

the usual sense, Zaytinya

Mediterranean. 2004 Bon

specifically Eastern

is

stars with the Minibar at

Greek/Turkish/Lebanese

sophisticated

Spanish tapas kitchens (Jaleo) and his

his

wine

boggling: and the Middle Eastern

list is

the

latest,

**

ETHIOPIAN

INEXPENSIVE

QUALITY

|

I

20

1

NW; (202)

28th Street,

Reservations Accepted VISA,

MCAMEX, DC, D

Street, pay lots

Bar

Full

•••

333-47

When

Every

day,

I

I

a.m.-

1

I

linen,

fresh

gives

•••

ZONE

|

5

1

1

Wine

•••

Friendliness rating

Payment

**•

Parking

selection House Dress Casual, business DisEthnic, local

p.m.

A

Setting and atmosphere whitewashed exterior

VALUE

to go Anytime Entree range $ 0-$ 6

Service rating service

|

1

abled access Not accessible Customers

Open

Cuban

unusually intriguing.

ZED'S

1

Cafe

mezze

deceptively simple

way to

flowers, formally

a cool,

dressed

Georgetown rowhouse

outside,

its

shadowy world of wood screens and white

staff,

instruments, and

musical

artifacts

of

Ethiopian culture.

House

specialties

Classic Ethiopian fare such as the chicken-hardboiled egg stew

called doro watt; the spicy steak tartare called kitfo; the

many

vegetarian stews: carrots

and cabbage, eggplant, and tomatoes; string beans and cauliflower; offers

some

less familiar dishes,

puree of spiced roasted

such as a whole fried

flax seeds;

Other recomnriendations

lentils, etc.

Zed

also

moderately spicy sauce, a

and a soul food-style mix of collard greens and beef.

Sauteed chicken

condiment of dried cottage cheese. Everything

Summary and comments

fish in

strips; bulgar

is

Zed Wondemu

wheat; spicy lamb stew; a

preservative-free. is

the

first

word

in

Washington's

334

Dining and Restaurants

Part Eight

Ethiopian establishments,

was the

first

in

both senses: Her original

made converts

of

many

local diners.

the sourdoughish pancake that

Meskerem

site,

Ethiopian establishment to break out of the

for

more

details)

Her cooking platter

is

and

is

several blocks to the west,

Adams-Morgan

utensil

and

alley

notable for the quality of

it

its injera,

one (see the entry for

in

and for the number of veggie dishes made with

oil

rather

than the traditional clarified butter, making them vegan-friendly.

***

ZOLA MODERN AMERICAN 800

F Street,

|

MODERATE

NW; (202)

|

QUALITY

•••

When

•••

|

ZONE

Metro

D

Service rating ***i/2 Friend-

Gallery Place/Chinatown, Navy Memorial/Archives/Penn

Quarter or Metro Center Parl
Street, pay lot, valet at dinner

Bar

selection Very good Dress Business, casual Disabled access

Wine

tomers

Open

Business/government, young

Monday-Friday,

I

downtown

Full

service

Good Cus-

trendies, media/sports types

1:30 a.m.-midnight; Saturday, 5 p.m.-midnight;Sunday,5-IO p.m.

Setting and atmosphere paying subtle tribute to

3

to go Pre-theatre or "event"; anytime Entree

range $l6-$25 Payment VISA, MC,AMEX, DC,

***

VALUE

654-0999

Reservations Recommended

liness rating

|

it

with

Museum

Playing off the adjacent International Spy its

name), Zola

is

filled

(and

with visual espionage jokes:

bits

of Cyrillic-language type and codes, declassified intelligence reports, "spy hole" portplus, hole windows, hush-hush-look red velvet booths, and film noir image blow-ups

—

as a hint, ostentatious

House

specialties

wine stations

the center of each dining room.

in

Grilled veal T-bone with wild

mushrooms and Madeira;

roasted duck breast with spring onion-pepper marmalade; lobster

almonds and mint; broiled jumbo prawns with spicy

harrisa,

roll

pan-

with toasted

green pea sticky rice and

caramelized Meyer lemon.

Other recommendations

Baked

littleneck clams

applewood bacon and pickled wild ramps and

mac

'n'

cheese" with lobster; chile-rubbed

peppers; cold-weather warmers such

dar fondue, or braised red snapper with

Summary and comments

grilled

as roast

two ways, with

garlic "krackle"; upscaled

Wagyu

kimichi and

"New

England

skirt steak with fried

sweet

lamb tabbouleh, smoked beer and Ched-

shellfish.

Chef Frank Morales worked

at

New York's

Union

Pacific

before moving to Washington, and though Zola doesn't have that kitchen's fusion accent, Morales does dip into the ethnic pantry from time to time to make a fresh point: Witness the siding of caramelized Meyer lemon and North African-style harissa pepper

sauce on the prawns; the lemongrass hollandaise with the crab and asparagus appetizer;

or the pungent ramps and fava beans with the teriyaki-glazed salmon. Zola's proximity to the

MCI Centre

as well as the Shakespeare

a big draw, and a three-course

bar

is

$28 menu

is

and other theaters makes early dinner here available

from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m.

a post-biz favorite as well, especially with D.C. government types.

Its

chic, sleek

a

Port Nine

Shopping in Washington

Mall Shopping It

should come

as

no

Washington, with one of the highest

surprise that

median household incomes

in the nation

and an increasingly

quite literally shop until

you drop

—

virtually mailed to death.

urday afternoons, roads leading to the shopping centers as

commuter

routes during rush hour.

The

—which

number-one

has

now

Tysons Corner,

—

in the "Specialty just

Sat-

outlet

complex

in

Dale

surpassed even Colonial Williamsburg as the

tourist attraction in Virginia

(see "Bargains"

On

are as congested

stretch of 1-95 south of

Washington around the Potomac Mills factory City

diverse

You can

population, offers a wide variety of shopping opportunities.

is

nearly always backed

Shops" section

west of the Beltway,

is

so large

later in it

this

up

part).

helped inspire one

of the catch phrases of 1990s development, the "edge

city."

Tysons

Siamese twin mall now, the original Tysons and the Galleria

at

is

a

Tysons

its own brewpub, appropriately named the Edge City BrewThe newer Leesburg Corner Premium Outlets on Route 7 west of Tysons Corner and the vast Arundel Mills, from the same folks who

II,

and has

ery.

brought you the jam

at

Potomac

Mills, are spreading the

name-brand

wealth around the region.

Suburban Malls Most of the smaller suburban malls are probably similar to what you have back home, with a few notable exceptions. One is The Fashion Centre (phone (703) 415-2400)

at

Pentagon City in Arlington, Virginia

beautiftil conservatory-style building filled retailers:

Crate and Barrel, the Wizards of the Coast, Mac/s, and

Nordstrom, the Seattle-based clothing and

—

with 160 primarily high-end

selection.

It

retailer

renowned

for

its

service

also opens onto the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, where you can

have a very refreshing, elegant meal or high

tea.

The Pentagon City

335

336

Part Nine

Metro

stop,

Shopping

on the blue

Washington

in

deposits shoppers right into the mall.

line,

The

(202) 686-5335), at the very north end

Chevy Chase Pavilion (phone

of the District of Columbia on the border of Maryland, has a somewhat similar look and such new "chain-boutique" stores as Gazelle (wearable art),

and Everett Hall, plus most

salon. Like

malls,

it

J.

Crew, Talbots, and a Georgette Klinger

has a food court, but

Coffee and a Cheesecake Factory.

It

is

it

also has a Starbucks

also directly accessible

by the

(the Friendship Heights station).

Metro

Catty-corner from the Pavilion

Mazza Gallerie (phone (202) 966Neiman Marcus, Saks for Men, House of Villeroy and Boch, Harriet is

6114), a slightly quieter mall with

Williams-Sonoma,

Kassman, and

Ann Taylor,

famed Boston discounter

a branch of the

Filene's Base-

ment. For emergencies, there is an American Express office on-site. White Flint Mall (phone (301) 468-5777), north of Washington, has a subway stop, although

continuous.

It

it's

also

a block or so away; shuttle bus service

houses Bloomingdale's,

Ann

&

Lord

Taylor,

is

Taylor,

Eurostyle Imports, the Limited, a Cheesecake Factory restaurant (which hands out silent "beepers" so you can keep shopping while waiting for a table), as well as a better-than-average food court and a huge, three-story Borders

& Music.

Books

Dave

reality sports/billiard/parlor/bar/restaurant

floor (see

There

is

its

profile in Part Ten:

also a European-style

from hairstyling sages,

and

Buster's, a vast virtual-

Entertainment and Nighdife, page 353).

day

Roxsan, which

spa,

to ornately painted (real or false) nails,

offers everything

mud

baths,

mas-

all-natural facials.

Montgomery Mall (phone access,

&

complex, dominates the top

(301) 469-6000), does not have subway

but for serious shoppers,

it's

only a ten-minute cab ride from

anchored by a Nordstrom, Sears, J.C. Penney and Hecht's, and includes A/X Armani Exchange, Eileen Fisher, J. Crew, Banana Republic, Evans fur salon, and Rosendorf. It also has a food

White

Flint.

It's

court with a full-sized Legal Seafood and a California Pizza Kitchen

and

a three-screen cineplex for bored kids.

(703) 893-9400; although

negotiations underway) offers nearly

including Nordstrom, ers,

Movado, Talbots

inton Redskins

Lord for

Tysons Corner (phone

does not yet have subway access there are

it

400 shops

in

two

large arcades,

& Taylor, Bloomingdale's, Brooks Broth-

Women,

official store.

Lacoste,

Max Mara,

(The "Corner"

and the Washup the neighborhood Fairfax Square (phone

fills

between Routes 7 and 123.) Just across the way is (703) 448-1830), a sort of mini-mall of superlabel shops

(see

"Designer

Clothing" in the "Specialty Shops" section) that whet your appetite for the platinum-card eateries such as Morton's of

guard white linen Ritz-Carlton Hotel.

Chicago and the

old-

Mall Shopping

Malls There

In

D.C. Georgetown Park (phone (202)

are fewer malls within city limits.

298-5577), near the intersection of

M

Street

and Wisconsin Avenue,

the most extravagant, featuring a lush Victorian design and

&

Abercrombie

retailers:

337

Fitch, Papillon, Crabtree

Taylor, J. Crew, Sharper Image, and the

is

some popular

&

Ann

Evelyn,

White House/Black Market,

ecru, or sable clothes and accessories. It Benihana Japanese steak house with sushi bar, the original Clyde's of Georgetown, and a food court. Two Washington landmarks have lately been reborn as shopping cen-

which stocks only cream, white, also includes a

ters:

Old Post

the

Union

Office Pavilion and

Station.

Pennsylvania Avenue just north of the Smithsonian, stocking up on souvenirs;

it

arts

building whose glory

arcade of shops, including ers

who

Hall,

arrive short

Ann Taylor

undiminished by

which has kiosks there's

more

and Nine West (handy

for travel-

The

a multiplex cinema.

And most

although

it's

tourists will

50

all

The

Station's

states), a

Pavilion

is

Metro stop

a couple of blocks

want

lowest level

and

a bustling

is

just outside the train track waiting areas.

is

America

(a restaurant that

couple of elevated-view bars,

very near the Federal Triangle

an escalator-ride down.

from the Metro Center

to look into the

It

food restaurant B. Smith's, a

Grill for Mexican,

claims to have dishes from

Union

a

two-story

New York neo-soul

branch of the

Uno, Thunder

stop;

is

its

selling one-of-a-kind jewelry, ethnic Russian

Pizzeria

Metro

the

Union

of clothes or shoes). Be sure to wander into the East

also has a

and

rivals

on Massachusetts Avenue,

is

Afrocentric crafts, and other merchandise.

food court, and

Pavilion, on

the place for

a fraction of the waiting line.

Station, the city's restored train station

grand beaux

is

tower with a view that

also has a

Washington Monument but with

The

Shops

at

stations,

National Place (F

SW, between 13th and 14th Streets; (202) 662-1250), which has Banana Republic, Victoria's Secret, and a couple of cafes. For free, you get to watch for political and media celebrities while you window shop; Street,

the building also houses the National Press Club.

Flea Markets Washington City

is,

but

is it

not a great

flea

markets for bargain-hunters least the

most

market town

is

way

New

that

York

likely to yield a fancy find,

is

the

NW), open

Sundays 9 a.m.

"Lonesome Dove" author Larry McMurty, who used

second-hand bookstore Jack" on the market.

in the

flea

The best or at Georgetown Flea Mar-

like grazing for goodies.

ket (Wisconsin Avenue and S Street, p.m.;

in the

does have a few dependable gatherings, and browsing

neighborhood, based

to

to 5

run a

his novel "Cadillac

338

Shopping

Part Nine

in

Washington

Other good spots include the Bethesda Flea Market (7155 Wisconsin Avenue in Bethesda), which is accessible by subway and open Wednesday, Saturday, and Sunday, 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.; and the flea market at Eastern Market (Seventh Street between Pennsylvania Avenue and

North Carolina Avenue), which is also accessible by the subway and open Sunday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Both the Bethesda and Eastern Market gatherings have extra attractions; Bethesda sets up around the old Farm Women's Co-op, so there's usually good food, flowers and preserves inside;

and the Eastern Market hosts

most Saturdays

fair

as well.

a

neighborhood

crafts

and

street

(But use good judgement; in bad weather

the vendors stay home.)

Great Neighborhoods for Window-shopping If malls

made

make you

for

Washington has a number of neighborhoods

crazy,

window-shopping.

Georgetown In Georgetown, the

city's largest

walk-and-shop

and boutique,

ing stores, both franchise

district,

most of the

are centered along the

cloth-

two main

M Street and Wisconsin Avenue—notably. Commander Salaman-

drags,

der (1420 Wisconsin Avenue,

M

(3210

Street,

NW;

NW;

(202) 337-2265);

BCBG Max Azria

(202) 333-2224); Kate Spade (3061

M

Street,

NW;

M

Street, NW; (202) 965-0905); (202) 333-8302); Ralph Lauren (3222 Urban Chic (1626 WisNW; Street, 333-3005); Coach (3259 (202) Sixty/Energie Miss (1239 Wisconsin consin Avenue; (202) 538-5398);

M

Avenue; (202) 965-6430); the neo-preppy Sherman Pickey (1647 Wisconsin

Avenue,

NW;

(202) 333-4212); Zara (1234 Wisconsin Avenue,

NW;

(202) 944-9797); Sassanova (1641 Wisconsin Avenue, NW; (202) 4714400); Betsey Johnson (1319 Wisconsin Avenue, NW; (202) 338-4090); plus the

now

ubiquitous

H&M (3222 M tion of Wisconsin

Outfitters (3111

Adidas Originals

Banana Republic (phone

NW;

Street,

Avenue and

M

Street,

(202) 333-2554);

(202) 298-6792); Benetton

M Street (phone (202)

NW;

at the intersec-

625-0443); Urban

(202) 342-1012); and one of only five

retro-repro boutiques (1251 Wisconsin Avenue,

NW;

(202) 333-8962). Thanks to the crowds of teens and twentysomethings that

hang out on Georgetown's sidewalks on weekends, many of these keep late hours for impulse shopping. These are also the two main restaurant strips. Shops past

for antiques,

R Street,

the section

on "Antiques"

Georgetown kind

crafts

Avenue,

both formal and more offbeat, stretch up Wisconsin

interspersed with collections of artwork, books,

—

NW;

also has

and

shoes; see

in the "Specialty Shops" section, page 343.

more than

a few shops specializing in one-of-a-

Maurine Littleton (1667 Wisconsin (202) 333-9307); ceramics at American Studio Plus (2906

including art glass at

Great Neighborhoods for Window-shopping

339

M Street, NW; (202) 965-3274); antique garden ornaments and furniture at

Cole Jardin (3218

wooden

O

NW;

Street,

(202) 333-3067); and jewelry and

NW;

Appalachian Spring (1415 Wisconsin Avenue,

crafts at

(202) 337-5780).

A Mano

(1677 Wisconsin; (202) 298-7200)

lays

out

fine

French linens, faience, and majolica plates for the fanciest breakfast in

bed

ever.

For more traditional

old-line

gifts,

NW;

Caledonia (1419 Wisconsin Avenue,

Georgetowners prefer Little

(202) 333-4700).

a shop at 3300 M Street, M Street near the Key Bridge park, in an

Thos. Moser Cabinetmakers has opened

NW,

(202) 338-4292, and off

33rd

alley at

Street, the

end furnishings

Relish, luxury bath floors

Cady Alley complex

fitters,

holds a

such

stores, clothing boutiques,

number of high-

as the

designer-heavy

kitchen specialists, and even antique marble

from the Holy Land. But the

specialty collector fascinated

by

late

nineteenth- and early twentieth-century decorative arts will find a paradise

on

M Street; see "Decorative Arts," page 347.

Adams-Morgan and U Street Historically, Adams-Morgan and U Street hood,

as

it's

known now) had

little

"new-U" neighbor-

(or the

connection.

Adams-Morgan

a wealthy white residential area adjoining the still-exclusive

began, as

Kalorama

but, with "white flight" to the suburbs after the unrest of the 1960s,

emerged

as the heart

Over the

past 15 or

and dining

of the Hispanic and then Ethiopian communities.

20

years,

area, especially

it

has developed into an eclectic nightlife

along 18th Street.

U

Street,

though

at the

north end of the Shaw neighborhood, was the closest thing Washington

had

to a

Harlem, thanks to

its

the riots,

it

and vaudeville venues

national-circuit jazz

and the proximity of Howard

University.

An

even more direct victim of

had sadly deteriorated and only began

to revive a decade ago,

thanks partly to some timely government investment and partly to a

wave of young couples willing as restaurants

and small

to invest in renovating the old

townhouses

businesses.

In recent years, these two ethnically heterogenous areas have increasingly popular with younger, hip,

even more encouraging developments center for small theaters and of the

U

U

—

the emergence of 1 4th Street as a

opening of

Street for nightclubs; the

Street-Cardozo subway station; and the commercial ripple effects

from the construction of the arena and the

and pedestrian

entrepeneurial habituees, intriguing

MCI

Center sports and entertainment

new Convention Center

area's visibility

traffic

to the south

even more.

Adams-Morgan and

window-shopping destinations

—have

And

U

increased that

thanks to their hip,

Street are

becoming

as well.

Although the two neighborhoods have not completely met dle,

become

and international crowds. Three

in the

mid-

they are beginning to send out tendrils of development toward one

another. (However, the area can

still

be somewhat edgy

late at night.)

340

Shopping

Part Nine

Washington

in

Among the best and brightest clothing boutiques ple grazing center

Kaur Three (2102 18th

are the designer

Street,

NW;

sam-

(202) 299-

0404), and the self-described "girlie" shop, Daisy (1814 Adams Mill Road, NW; (202) 797-1777), haute-accessory central. A few doors up is

AU About

Jane (2438 18th

Street; (202)

797-9710), stocking T-shirts

for the too-too trendy.

In between Adams-Morgan's melting pot of restaurants (and

and expensive antique

serious

stores)

Rasta) clothing stores

and

dresses, religious icons,

and perhaps

craft boutiques, racks

For architectural remnants chandeliers, door handles,

NW;

—

(2311 18th

Street,

a parking lot

its

quite

and Hispanic (and

of Mexican wedding

a medicinal herb or two.

mantels, stained or leaded glass windows,

and columns

—check out

(202) 332-3370); the Brass

Warehouse

0587), which

are African

away (2329 Champlain

the Brass Knob Knob Backdoors

Street,

NW;

holds the clawfoot tubs, radiators, and sinks;

vative furnishings at the four-story

Skynear

&

(202) 265-

and the inno-

Co. (2122 18th

Street,

NW; (202) 797-7160), which stocks hand-painted pillows, repro armoires and red China cabinets, whimsical wrought iron, acrobatic light fixtures,

And

and the although

(181 1-B 18th

(The Gen-X, smart-set

like.

a

it's

it

chopsticks, and even

Four blocks

east

in the basement.)

Home

(202) 986-8607) is anything but the subursounds; it's a Thai famly business, and the direct

Bangkok-to-D.C. wares include ics,

is

NW;

Street,

ban catalogue shop

stuff

south of the main drag. Simply

little

throws,

silk

bamboo

rice bowls,

ceram-

cabinets.

of Simply

Home

are

Home

Rule (1807 l4th

Street,

NW; (202) 797-5544), one of those shops that has figured out that home accessories don't have to be humorless; Vastu (1829 l4th Street, NW; (202) 234-8344), a gallery of limited-edition furniture; Go Mama Go! (1809 14th

Street,

NW;

(202) 299-0850), which stocks smaller-

scale but eye-catching ethnically-flavored furnishings perfect for the chic

dorm room, condo,

or

loft;

and Muleh (1831 l4th

Street,

NW;

(202)

S67 -3440), stocked with eco-friendly furnishings from Indonesia and the Phillipines. A block north, McKay's Antiques (1902 l4th Street,

NW;

&

(202) 265-4345) tends to focus on the small accents, while Ruff Street, NW; (202) 667-7833) is a more old-fashioned

Ready (1908 l4th

neighborhood antique

store,

which

also offers increasingly desirable gar-

den antiques.

The

heaviest concentration of stores along

and 13th (1330

U Street, NW;

in cool: a ers,

Streets, near the

Street

is

between 16th

Urban

(202) 299-0640) puts the emphasis

Essentials

on "urban,"

as

soft-drink-machine-turned-CD rack, modular storage contain-

mod-design home

Street,

U

entrance to the subway

NW;

office pieces, etc.

Good Wood

Inc. (1428

U

(202) 986-3640), on the other hand, says "country" special-

Great Neighborhoods for Window-shopping izing in nineteenth-century Anerican furniture, including arts

and

341

crafts,

andirons, and stained glass, but at Sunday auction prices.

U Street, NW;

Habitat (1510

and

ican crafts

(1517

U

The

jewels.

NW;

Street,

The

and

collectibles at

(202) 238-0404) aren't faux-weathered (and aren't

generally "weathered" at ern.

MexWeathered Classics

(202) 518-7222) deals in primarily

gifts

all)

but a mix of old and new, Mission and mod-

African and African-American decorative arts and accessories,

and ceremonial items

sculpture,

(202) 232-2214), like

many

at

Zawadi Gallery (1524

that range

from the

U Street, NW;

and expensive

fine

to the

simply attractive and affordable. Millennium Decorative Arts (1528 Street,

NW;

(202) 483-1218)

one of

is

new-U, mixing Waring blenders and fondue pots with the

eateries) in

retro stuff such as

Eames

and

chairs

U

several retro-kitsch shops (and real

a Saarinen pedestal table.

Fans of vintage clothing and accessories in the 1950s-1970s range

should cruise the three stories Street

NW;

at

Meep's and Aunt Neensie's (1520

U

(202) 265-6546). Vintage accessory addicts should head for

Nana (1534 U Street NW; (202) 667-6955); and Wild Women Wear Red specializes in what it calls "fiinky, functional footwear for women," well-made shoes, sandals, and boots

striking but

(1512

U Street NW;

Note than some of the shops only on weekends or toward the

Dupont Dupont

in the

U

neighborhood

Street

latter part

are

open

full

of art

of the week.

Circle

Circle

for shoppers looking to enrich the

is

galleries, espresso bars,

Most of these

are

erally clustered

Avenue

at affordable prices

(202) 387-5700).

on the north

R Street

along

(leading

and bookstores

mind

(see "Specialty

side of the circle:

The

two blocks

just

in the

—

it's

Shops," page 343).

art galleries are

gen-

west of Connecticut

you gently toward the Phillips Collection). The Chao

Phraya Gallery (2009 Columbia Road, a half-block east of Connecticut Avenue; (202) 745-1 1 1 1), showing Chinese and Southeast Asian art and antiques,

is

a few blocks north.

West of the

circle

Gallery (1730 21st

American and Mission, and

near the Phillips Collection Street,

British arts

NW; and

crafts furniture,

Deco and Nouveau

(202) 745-7272) offers African

is

the Geoffrey

Diner

(202) 483-5005), which specializes in

pieces. Affirica

textiles,

including Stickley and

(2010^2

R Street, NW;

masks, figurines, and currency.

Marston-Luce (1314 21st Street, NW; (202) 333-6800) is a Francophile's dream, but open by appointment only. (Their Georgetown store at 1651 Wisconsin Avenue is open to the public.) South of the circle, on Connecticut Avenue, NW, between N and K Streets, are

Hugo

high-end

retailers

such

as

Ralph Lauren Polo; Burberry;

Boss; Betsy Fisher; Rizik's, a prominent local women's shop; and

342

Shopping

Part Nine

Washington

in

Pampillonia Jewelers, which

There

and

just over at 18th

10th

and L

and

is

estate pieces.

shop called the Tiny Jewel Box, and

Alan Marcus

& Co.

(1200 18th

Street,

NW,

331-0671), which discounts big name watches, pens,

floor; (202)

crystal,

M

and

specializes in antique

also a fine estate jewelry

is

And

silver.

Streets, (202)

for designer pieces, look into I.

Gorman

at

20th

775-8544.

Chevy Chase At the northwest edge of D.C., where

it

Montgomery

blends into

County, Maryland, well-heeled shoppers love the stretch of Wisconsin

Avenue from about Jenifer Street to Park Avenue. With two malls Mazza Gallerie and Chevy Chase Pavilion and lots of freestanding boutiques, there is much browsing and spending to do. Among the shops

—

are

Neiman Marcus, Gazelle Limited (a great spot for wearable art), Bam, Lord & Taylor, Saks Fifth Avenue, Saks-Jandel and

Pottery

Rosendorf-Evans

furriers.

There

are also jewelry

and antique shops.

Bethesda Bethesda, Maryland, which

is

just

beyond Chevy Chase, has become not

only one of the major restaurant centers in the Washington area but also

and antiques, books, tobacconists, vintage and consignment clothing (which, in an area as prosperous as this, means everything from faux pearls to furs), and trendy home furnishings. a

magnet

area for fine rugs, art

Urban Country (7801 Woodmont Avenue; (301) 654-0500) is crammed with painted, faux-distressed, and gilded fijrniture, desktop accessories, ceramics, linens, glass,

and

flatware; they also

custom-uphol-

ster. But these days, the Bethesda boomers, like those in Adams-Morgan, are generally looking East. Just down the street from Urban Country, is

the San Francisco-based

Design Within Reach (4828

Bethesda; (301) 215-7200).

Central Asia. Ancient

mont Avenue;

(4731

and

Elm

Rhythms,

about two blocks away (7920

and Indonesian) and African-style

accessories of

Street; (301)

antiques from

wood,

941-1174)

Africa, Southeast Asia,

art paper,

from

Wood-

offers

furniture, jewelry,

and metalwork. Muleh

both

and reproduction

real

and the Middle

East.

Furnishings (4715 Cordell Avenue; (301) 656-0400) from-the-Thai-in-laws operation. Pasha (301) 657-1 120) jewelry.

Elmo Avenue,

(301) 652-2669), specializes in Southeast Asian (particu-

larly Phillipine

tapestry,

St.

Tribal Arts, selling decorative pieces

sells

Home

is

Asian

Home

another direct-

Fashion (4865 Cordell;

Indonesian mahogany, Italian leather and Peruvian

BartleyTile Concepts (6931 Arlington Road; (301) 913-9113)

tiles, marble, and slate, both new and salvaged. Lomay-Schnitzel Antiques (6826 Wisconsin Avenue; (301) 656-191 1)

sells

is

hand-painted

an old and respected source of English, French, and continental pieces,

both original and fine reproduction.

Specialty Shops

Among art galleries are Allyson

343

Louis (7200 Wisconsin Avenue; (301)

656-2877), Capricorn Galleries (10236 River Road; (301) 765-5900),

and Marin-Price (7022 Wisconsin Avenue; (301) 718-0622). Particuone might almost say on exhibit at the larly fine art glass is available

—

Glass Gallery (4720

and matches

Lane; (301) 657-3478).

and ceramics with

glass

art

—

Hampden

ZYZYX

mixes

production pieces

better

(10301-A Old Georgetown Road; (301) 493-0297).

Capitol

On

Hill

Capitol Hill most shops are in the vicinity of Eastern

where vendors

actual market

and

flea

market bric-a-brac

up

set

—

tables selling produce,

located

on Seventh

Street

Market

—an

baked goods,

between Pennsyl-

vania and Independence Avenues, SE. There, amid the restaurants and bars, are

secondhand clothing shops and

first-rate crafts stores.

on Eighth

the old Eastern Market building

just

Around

north of Pennsylvania

Avenue, you can browse through a variety of antiques stores and boutiques, as well as farmers'

produce and fresh poultry stands. There's a pot-

tery co-op upstairs at the

Market

itself

Old Town Alexandria Old Town Alexandria, tered up, crafts,

Virginia,

and home

South Royal

furnishings.

Street; (703)

pottery, tools,

a walker's delight, too, with shops clusStreet,

Wayne

836-6043)

most of them

Street; (703)

is

charming old

toys,

as well as furniture.

This

specializes in

spotlighted at Egerton

548-8820), the

Random Harvest

Street; (703)

(810 King

Old Colony Shop (222-B South Washing-

ton Street; (703) 548-8008), and Robert Bentley

Washington

Gardens (1117

548-1197).

Other good poking-around spots include Street; (703)

selling antiques,

Fisher American Design (114

and painted wood ornaments

trendy indoor-outdoor look

King

is

down, and around King

Adams

(405 South

549-0650).

Specialty Shops Antiques Serious antique-seekers get out of

town

—

driving an hour or

more

to the

countryside of Maryland, Virginia, West Virginia, or Pennsylvania for the bargains. Frederick, Maryland, about an particularly popular with area antiquers.

125-dealer

Emporium Antiques

ures

it

will turn

—though few

bargains

centration of such shops

is

biggest single group

(112 East Patrick

(301) 662-7099), though walking the streets just off

hour north of Washington,

The

Main

Street

Street,

is

is

at the

Frederick;

neighborhood and the

up plenty of others. But you will find treasin and around Washington. The largest con-

—

on "Antique Row"

in Kensington,

Maryland,

344

Shopping

Part Nine

in

Washington

about four miles from the D.C.

line.

There

are

more than 50 antique

on Howard Avenue, with smaller shops

dealers

Avenue and

larger

Howard Avenue;

east

of Connecticut

warehouses west of Connecticut. Sparrows (4115

(301) 530-0175) specializes in late eighteenth- to early

nineteenth-century French and French Revival pieces, including fine

Deco and Nouveau. clocks,

urines,

Paris- Kensington specializes in smaller bronze fig-

and porcelain. Desbois Antiques de France

silver,

(4080B Howard Avenue; (301) 897-9560) take the formal approach, as does Huret Antiques (4106 Howard Avenue; (301) 530-7551), which helpfully explains its periods, rules, epochs, and styles for less practiced customers. J'antiques (10429 Fawcett Street; (301) 942-0936) offers

and Limoges. Not

ver flatware

and

ingly, there's

even a restaurant called Cafe Monet.

filigree, fine estate jewelry,

Georgetown and Alexandria,

In

from the past three

collectibles

you'll find a variety

consin Avenue,

NW;

David

(202) 965-2355); and Miller

Bell Antiques (1655 Wisconsin Avenue;

& Arney (1737 Wisconsin Avenue;

One Georgetown

favorite

Shop (1427 Wisconsin Avenue, second

(in

(202) 625-1776); Space (1625 Wisconsin Avenue,

(202) 333-0140);

338-2369).

of shops selling

Georgetown's best

Gore-Dean Antiques (1529 Wis-

geographically ascending order) are

NW;

Among

centuries.

sil-

surpris-

NW;

(202)

Christ Child Opportunity

is

(202) 333-6635), where,

floor, you'll find silver, china, paintings,

on

the

and other cherishables on

consignment from the best Georgetown homes. (See the neighborhood profiles earlier in this part.)

The

best antiques in Alexandria are in

Old Town

along Washington

4000 block of King Street: Check out Studio Antiques Fine Art (524 North Washington Street; (703) 548-5253), and Washington Square Antiques (689 South Washington Street; (703) 8363214). The Thieves' Market in Alexandria (8101 Richmond Highway; Street

and

in the

&

(703) 360-4200) has scores of booths with good used rugs, antique furniture,

and

jewelry.

Art

One

of the

city's

— of —can be found around Dupont of Connecticut Avenue and R of R — each

most concentrated

traditional,

art for sale

selection

modern, photographic, and ethnic

The

best are centered

Street

and spread

on

a sort

Circle.

crossroads

a couple of blocks in

around 20th and 21st

Streets,

direction

where there

blocks. Gallery openings are generally

on

are a

the

However, a renaissance of independent

dozen

first

artists

especially

galleries

Friday of the month.

and co-ops has made the

Seventh Street area just north of Pennsylvania Avenue the

Among

NW;

Street

within two

SoHo

of D.C.

the important stops are the Zenith Gallery (413 Seventh Street,

(202) 783-2963), which specializes in photography,

new

art,

and

— Specialty Shops

Co-op (406 Seventh

neon; the Touchstone

Street,

NW;

2787); and the Lansburg Building (406 Seventh Street,

department store that has been transformed into

345

(202) 347-

NW),

a

former

a three-story assortment

of art and photography spaces. The Seventh Street neighborhood opens every third Thursday of the

dozen shops; meet enth

Street,

NW;

for a free gallery crawl that covers a

lobby of the Goethe-Institut (812 Sev-

(202) 289-1200) at 6:30 p.m.

Similarly, the art galleries late

month

at the in the

of Canal Square in Georgetown stay open

every third Friday, with jazz and hors d'oeuvres and wine for patrons.

for art is the Torpedo Factory Art Center in Old Town Alexandria (105 North Union Street; (703) 838-4565), where painting, sculpture, jewelry, and more 1 50 artists in a range of media have set up studios. You can buy their work, or simply watch them create. For the gallery-cafe tours of Old Town, which are on the second Thursday of each month, gather at Gallery West at 205 South Union

Another popular source

—

Street; (703)

549-7359.

Bargains Washington may have

and pricey

rants,

its

million-dollar houses, expense-account restau-

private schools, but

it

also has a surprising

discount outlets. Savvy shoppers never pay bags, their

Lancome

cosmetics, or their Polo dress shirts.

Nowadays, even the

relatively affluent

D.C. area

name, bargain-price supermalls. To the south Dale

City,

VA

numbet of Coach

full price for their

—one of

the world's largest

is

is

surrounded by big-

Potomac Mills Mall

in

outlet malls. Just 45 minutes

south of D.C, off 1-95, this 250-store mall (phone (800) VA-MILLS) gets

more

visitors

each year than any other Virginia tourist attraction nearly impossible to hit

—

even

of the

more than Colonial Williamsburg. It's which include the popular IKEA (Swedish furniture store) and outlets for Nordstrom, Eddie Bauer, Guess, Ann Taylor, Saks Off Fifth, Gap, Polo, Athlete's Foot, Brooks Brothers, and Benetton. all

stores,

To

the west, perhaps

malls at

1

5 or

20 minutes past the various Tysons Corner

the intersection of Route 7 and the Route 15 Bypass,

burg Comer Premium

Outlets (241 Fort Evans Road,

is

NE;

the Lees-

(703) 737-

3071), a closet-heavy complex whose more famous designer names include

Ellis,

Bebe, Cole Haan, Geoffrey Beene, Tommy Ralph Lauren, Kenneth Cole, Greg Norman, Perry

BCBG Max Aria,

Hilfiger, Polo

Kasper and Liz Claiborne, along with Jones

New York,

Barneys,

Saks Off Fifth, Burberr/s, Movado, and Seiko. And northeast of town, off the Baltimore- Washington Parkway or

Route 110

east

of 1-95,

is

Arundel Mills (7000 Arundel Mills

Hanover, Maryland; (410) 540-5100). More than a million square

name brands

that echo the other

two but trump them with

Circle, feet

of

a 24-theater

346

Shopping

Part Nine

in

Washington

at and a full-sized Bass Pro Shops Outdoor World, where you can exhaust them on the rock climbing wall. If you can't make it to the suburbs except by Metro, Washington now

cinema you can park the kids

has

its first

inside-the-Beltway off-price mall, City Place in Silver Spring,

Maryland (phone (301) 589-1091). At the intersection of Colesville Road (Route 29) and Fenton Street, three blocks north of the Silver Spring Metro (red line). City Place's best assets are Nordstrom Rack, Marshalls, and

its

shoe outlets.

Bookstores It's little

are well read: almost everywhere

wonder Washingtonians

look, there

is

a bookstore.

There

are general-interest chains like B. are small independents,

ton and Borders, but the majority narrow

Dupont

Streets, are

and

some of

NW,

Connecticut Avenue between S and

just off

the

city's

toward Dupont Circle,

NW;

you'll hit the

Newsroom, with an

periodicals

(1803 Connecticut

Lambda

(202) 332-1489);

NW;

shop (1625 Connecticut Avenue, books, a bookstore and

on P

for

Street you'll find

used books (2000 P

Rising, a gay/lesbian book-

(202) 462-6969); and

cafe that's quite the scene

open 24 hours (1517 Connecticut Avenue, off the circle

I

best bookstores. Walking south from S

exhaustive stock of foreign-language

Avenue,

line to

Circle or the orange line to Farragut West. Between these two

stops, along

Street,

many with

literature, or mystery.

such as art, travel, book-browsing mood, you might take the red

specialties

If you're in a

Metro

Russian

you Dal-

it's

(202) 387-1400). Right

Second Story Books,

NW;

Street,

NW;

Kramer-

on weekends, when

a terrific source

(202) 659-8884); and Backstage,

and performing arts books (545 8th Street, SE; (202) 544_5744). Down side streets you can seek out Olsson's Books and Records, the city's most beloved general-interest book source, with a

which

sells scripts

selective

but broad inventory (1307 19th

One

of the Books-a-Million

New

Hampshire Avenue and P

319-1374);

it

bestsellers at

30 percent off

Bader (19111

I

Street,

also

NW;

(202) 785-1133).

on Dupont

Circle between

about one o'clock (phone (202)

New

York Times hsLvd- and paperback

retail price.

you'll find

NW; Street, NW;

volumes on the

(202) 337-5440);

Street,

Store (1636

is

Street at

discounts the current

Over by Farragut West

Map

stores

visual arts at

travel guides at

(202) 628-2608); and

The

Franz

ADC

literary criticism,

biography, poetry, and a good general stock, as well as frequent Saturday at

Chapters (445

a fairly large

Borders on L

afternoon readings

There

is

1

1th Street,

overwhelming

as the flagship store in

decker Barnes

and Noble

Washington

area, in

store,

Georgetown

White

one of at

NW;

(202) 347-5495).

Street at 19th Street,

though not

several recently

M and 21st Streets.

as

and a

three-

opened

in the

Flint Mall;

— Specialty Shops

And

even Washingtonians tend to overlook the

347

Government Printing

Office Bookstore, which carries more than 15,000 books, pamphlets,

and

CD-ROMs

real

things

as well as

— from

books of photographs

the Library of Congress (710

—and sometimes North Capitol

the

Street;

(202)512-0132).

Another

specialty bookstore can be

Prose specializes

in psychology, politics,

and hosts many of their book-signing

NW;

And

(202) 364-1919).

Shops

at

on ConnectiChevy Chase. Politics &

farther north

as

and the works of local authors

parties

although

Mount Vernon claim

it's

(5015 Connecticut Avenue, not widely advertised the

to have the largest bookstore in the

George Washington

try dedicated to

found

known

cut Avenue, in the neighborhood

(see

"Museum

coun-

Shops," below).

Decorative Arts

The south

side of

Georgetown

M

Street

between 28th and 30th

offers a staggering array

ticularly rich in

Art Deco, Art Nouveau, and Moderne pieces.

Lareuse (2820 Pennsylvania Avenue; (202) 333-5704) that specializes in twentieth-century prints

Miro,

etc.

pewter and

silver,

of them attributed, from Liberty

and

fine Victorian rings

and lithographs by

glass,

arts

and

and ceramic crafts

NW;

earrings, enamel, intaglio,

and even

Grafix (2904

M

Street,

NW;

collectible prints

still-lifes,

art as well as fine furni-

(202) 342-0610)

sells

vintage posters-

and

illustration plates.

A

partitioned townhouse at

M Street, NW, features Michael Getz (phone (202) 338-3811) and

Cherub Gallery (phone artists

(202) 337-2224) and gathers a collection of

and studios

as Tiffany, Lalique,

Daum, and

Here you can find heavy wrought andirons, ivory-handled magnifying shakers,

glasses,

cream pitchers and perfume

nymphic candelabra, and ornate photo

the largest collection of silver napkin

Lipert (2922 silver,

M (2900 M

Nouveau and Deco examples, antique hand-tinted maps,

works by such

is

plus

artists;

Bakelite.

(202) 338-7710), displaying floral paintings and

including Art

2918

Picasso,

vases, the majority

and Nouveau

handpainted furniture, tapestry cushions, and folk

and

Galerie

a fine art gallery

is

Janis Aldridge, Inc. swings around the corner of 29th and

ture.

The

in

par-

arts,

At Justine Mehlman (2824 Pennsylvania Avenue; (202) 337-

0613), you'll find

Street,

NW,

Streets,

of antiques and decorative

but

its

M

Street,

emphasis

NW;

is

Icart.

fish services

and

bottles, elegant cocktail

frames. In the back

rings outside a melting pot.

(202) 965-9736) also displays

room Keith

art, glass,

on enamelware, ceramics, and heavier

and

pieces.

Designer Clothing In the free-spending 1980s, couture clothiers couldn't

open shops

fast

While the 1980s may be gone, most of a row of chic the boutiques remain. And most are in "Gucci Gulch"

enough

in the

Washington

area.

—

348

Shopping

Part Nine

in

Washington

shops extending from the 5200 to 5500 blocks of Wisconsin Avenue,

from the upper edge of the County, Maryland.

District of

Among

Columbia

Montgomery

right into

Hugo

the boutiques: Saks Jandel,

Boss,

Sylene, Relish, Georgette Klinger, Elizabeth Arden, Cartier, Saks Fifth

Avenue, Relish, Versace, Harriet Kassman, Joan and David, and Gianfranco Ferre. Also note the estate jewelry and

silver at

Heller Jewelers.

Virginia, too offers designer wares. Here, the gold-card

crowd heads

Fairfax Square, a mall on Leesburg Pike in Tysons Corner that to Tiffany

to

home

& Company, Gucci, Hermes, and Louis Vuitton.

In the District proper, the grand old Willard Hotel

NW,

Avenue,

is

houses a

set

on Pennsylvania

of shops that includes Chanel.

Or

try Rizik's

of Connecticut Avenue and L Street for establishment-

at the corner

women's couture.

Shops

Insider

Although the White House, the House of Representatives, and even

Camp

David have monogrammed and souvenir merchandise, it's availwho want to look like Washington

able only to special staff Outsiders insiders

The

do have a few options, however.

NASA Exchange gift shop

for astronaut

wannabes.

It is

E

(300

Street,

open Monday

SW;

(202) 358-0162)

to Friday, 8:15 a.m. to 4

is

p.m

(closed during lunch, 1-2 p.m.).

A different sort of insider store necticut Avenue,

NW;

is

the

Counter Spy Shop (1027 Con-

(202) 887-1717), which has tiny cameras, bug-

ging and taping trackers, night vision scopes, and protective clothing. Just look mysterious.

Museum Shops Some of Washington's museum's orientation

and

art

books

fill

greatest finds are in

is

a

good guide

to

its

its

museum

gift

shops.

shop's merchandise

the National Gallery of Art shop;

model

—

A

prints

and

airplanes

and Space Museum. The largest Museum of American History, which sells

other toys of flight are on sale at the Air

Smithsonian shops are toys, clothing,

hghted in the

exhibits;

ing the collection.

—

of

at the

at the

musical instruments, and recordings from countries high-

although

And

International

which stock video and

all

the

the hippest

museums have some gifts

Spy Museum

are currently

store

items reflect-

on view

—

sort

(phone (202) 654-0950),

CD copies of old spy TV shows and themes, pens

disguised as lipsticks, disguises for people

Some good museum

and miniature cameras.

shops are often overlooked by

Museum

tourists.

The

shop (phone (202) 272-2448), which

sells

design-related books, jewelry, architecturally-inspired greeting cards,

and

National Building

gadgets; the Arts

and Industries shop (phone

(202) 357-2700), a pretty,

Victorian setting stocked with Smithsonian reproductions; the Depart-

Specialty Shops

ment of

the Interior

4056), which

sells

Museum's Indian Craft Shop (phone

museum and

one-of-a-kind creations at the

town Park Mall; the National 633-4600), a bazaar

Museum

349

(202) 208in

George-

of African Art shop (phone (202)

with colorful cloth, Ethiopian crosses, and

filled

wooden ceremonial instruments such

as

hand drums and tambourines; the

Arthur M. Sackler Gallery shop (phone (202) 633-4880), with cases fiill of brass Buddhas, Chinese lacquerware, jade and jasper jewelry, feng shui

Renwick

Gallery, which stocks unusual art jew-

kits,

and

elry;

the Shakespeare-lovers' treasure trove at the Folger Library (phone

porcelain; the

(202) 544-4600); and the newly expanded shop at the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts (phone (202) 467-4600), stocked with videos, opera glasses,

and other

gifts for

The Millwood Museum (phone

performing-arts lovers.

(202) 686-8510) has jewelry and

ornaments inspired by Marjorie Merriweather Faberge and Russian porcelains.

Post's

famous collection of

The Stephen Decatur House Museum

(phone (202) 842-1856) has patriotic souvenirs emphasizing American history and architecture, and the expanded shop at Mount Vernon

(phone (703) 799-6301)

of Marthas cookbook,

offers reproductions

George's key to the Bastille, and period china and silver patterns.

Oriental Rugs Washington, D.C.

offers the broadest selection

available in the United States. In fact, there

that prices are

quality in greater

is

of handmade oriental rugs so

much

forced below what you would expect

other American cities. Though shops

Washington

to

comparable

around the is

to Bethesda.

Memorabilia

ing political

no doubt you already know about stores sellletters and photos, and

buttons and ribbons, autographed

commemorative as

all

area, the biggest concentration of reputable stores

If you're a serious collector,

be

for

are sprinkled

located on Wisconsin Avenue from Friendship Heights

Political

competition here

pay

plates

and pens.

fun to browse through

as

If you're

not a

collector, these

museums, except

that

shops can

you can touch

buy them, and take them home. Two such shops, within walking Coin and Stamp 1 70 1 L Street, NW; (202) 296-0400) and Political Americana (1331 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW; (202) 737-7730), which also has a branch inside Union things,

distance of one another, are Capitol

Station.

NW;

The Honest Abe Souvenir Company

(202) 347-1021) has

all

sorts

(

(F

and Tenth

Martin Luther King to D.C. snow globes and Georgetown Prints

T-shirts.

and Photography

Although most dealers prominent

NW,

Streets,

of Washingtonia, from tiny busts of

is

in fine

Suite 200; (202)

photos are in Georgetown, one of the most

Ewing Gallery (1609 Connecticut Avenue, 328-0955). Otherwise, visit the Robert Brown

the Kathleen

350

Shopping

Part Nine

R

GaUery (2030

Street,

(1516 31st

Street,

(1227 34th

Street,

NW; NW;

graphs of and by rock Stu

turned-artist

Washington

in

NW;

(202) 483-4383); the Ralls Collection

(202) 342-1754); and the

Govinda Gallery

(202) 333-1180), which specializes in photo-

'n' rollers,

from Annie Leibovitz to onetime Beatle-

and

Sutcliffe

photographer

his

girlfriend

Astrid

Georgetown Gallery of Art (3235 P Street, NW; (202) 333-6308), Hemphill Fine Arts (1027 33rd Street, NW; (202) 342-5610), and the Spectrum Gallery Kirchherr. For prints

(1132 29th

and works on paper,

NW;

Street,

(202) 333-0954). For antique maps, botanical

and vintage cartoons,

prints,

town (1220 31st

Street,

the

visit

try the

NW;

Old

Print Gallery, also in George-

(202) 965-1818).

Salon Products Although

it

tators, for

the

seems

as if every

good

spa/salon/store

mall

now has

stuff think about

a

Body Shop and

—no

—and scented with

testing

almond tle,

Soaps, bath

oils.

NW;

(202)

oils, all

made

around the corner (1325 Wisconsin Avenue,

965-1325), offering body products from toners to massage

of only plant products

not to mention

artificial scents

or coloring and no animal

the likes of rosemary, cinnamon, sesame, and

salts,

and

facials, scrubs,

tych" of cosmetic stores

several imi-

Georgetown: Aveda has a huge new

on

M

oils are available

by the ounce or bot-

and massages. There's

Street, starting

sort

of a

"trip-

with the very hot French

chain Sephora, where you can try on nearly a hundred brands of lipstick

(3065

M

338-5644);

Street; (202)

MAC

944-9771); and Blue Mercury (3059

both a spa and a Merle

custom creams, exotic

Norman

oils,

and

M

(3067

Street,

M

NW;

Street,

Street,

NW;

all

(202) is

new millennium, stocked with named for film stars. And across

for the

lipsticks

the street are the Provencal-based L'Occitane (3106

(202) 337-6001) and the

NW;

(202) 965-1300)

organic London-based

M

Street,

NW;

Lush (3066

M

(202) 333-6950).

Watches Alan Marcus

& Co., which offers

50 percent off on Rolex, Patek Philippe, and

Carrier, plus Lalique

Washington's answer to Tourneau

up

to

and Baccarat floor; (202)

crystal,

is

and Montblanc pens (1200 18th

Street,

NW,

fifth

331-0671).

Wine and Gourmet Foods Georgetown has a branch of New

York's

joined forces with the Sutton Place

& Deluca (3276 Mayflower Wines

famed Dean

M Street, NW; (202) 342-2500), complete with

cafe.

Gourmet shops

in

1992

to provide

one-stop, fine-food shops in the greater Washington area. Each shop offers

an excellent selection of wines and an impressive variety of gour-

met and ethnic

foods.

The wine

buyers travel abroad each year to select

Specialty Shops

351

the stores' wine inventory and are particularly tuned in to Italian reds. Visitors to the stores

from outside the

can buy wine and have in person, the

it

District, Virginia,

shipped home.

If you

To

Another

town.

shop

a newsletter describing

The

newsletter also includes

receive the free newsletter call (301) fine

strong catalog,

NW;

to

Sutton Place Gourmet publishes

highly touted (and reasonably priced) wines. recipes.

and Maryland

do not have time

wine is

store,

which

invests in

564-3100.

wine

fiitures

and

offers a

MacArthur Liquors (4877 MacArthur Boulevard,

(202) 338-1433) in the Palisades neighborhood west of GeorgeIt's

sumption

worth remembering that because of is

less

stores just over the border in

the well-liked purveyor "Bassin's"

tax laws,

wine

for con-

expensive in stores like this within the District than in

by Washington

Maryland or

Addy

Virginia. Originally

MacArthur

Bassin,

is

still

owned by

often called

natives.

Writing Implements Fahrney's Pens (1317 F Street, stuff:

NW;

(202) 628-9525) has

all

the write

For more than 70 years, Fahrney's has sold nothing but beautiful

pens, including

Watermans and Mont

Blancs.

White

Flint

Mall has a

smaller shop but one well versed in the instant unblocking of recalcitrant

fountain pens, Bertram's Inkwell (phone (202) 342-9030).

Part Ten

Entertainment

and Nightlife

Washington

Nightlife:

More Than

Lit-up

Monuments

Washington after-hours used set its

to

be an oxymoron. Public transportation

come

clock by the bureaucracy, commuters had too far to go (and

back the next morning) to stay out

late,

and big expense account money

was lavished on restaurants and buddy suffered

ftom a persistent

ning to buy

bars. Besides,

cultural inferiority

companies while not-so-

tickets to see touring theatrical

benignly neglecting

homegrown

Washingtonians

complex that had them run-

troupes.

Nowadays, though, the joke about "Washington after-hours" being an

oxymoron

is

around,

that there's too

it's

just that: a joke.

It's

not that

too

there's

and every one of these groups

grate, their

own

circles.

means you can dabble

The

fact that

in a litde

is

trying to create,

many

overlap,

opera

less

so but increasingly frequent.

is

are major-

At

least

and others

inte-

evolve,

underestimated but

some of the

and minor-league

in every season (see the "Spectator Sports" section).

many

college

and then

Broadway, and cabaret are almost constant presences,

open year-round; there in as

nightlife

a polyglot

of everything.

Washington's legitimate theatrical community excellent; ballet,

is

CEOs, and

of big-city bustlers, yuppies, diplomats, immigrants, students;

little

much. Or too many. Washington

flavors as their patrons: discos, live

showcases, country dance

racetracks are

sports teams at play

And

come comedy

nightclubs

music venues,

halls, specialty bars, sports bars, espresso bars,

gay bars, singles scenes, and "second scenes" for re-entering

singles.

There

are even a couple of strip joints around for boys' night sentimentalists

and brewpubs

for beer connoisseurs.

Just in the last couple of years, a kind of nightclub renaissance has revitalized

whole neighborhoods,

a shift that has

been particularly

visible

353

354

Entertainment and Nightlife

PartTen

downtown

once were nearly deserted

in areas that

least after cocktail hour.

The

boom downtown

is

what

in

MCI

rush hour, or at

after

Centre has sparked a development

now called Penn

Quarter; the

"New U"

corri-

NW

(and which now dor that originally centered on l4th and U Streets small-theatre merge with the begun to Tenth) has stretches to Ninth or regained vitality, Adams-Morgan has interest. strip, adding balance and thanks in part to the

from Eurotrash posing

shift

swingers. Curiously, Georgetown, once a ftil

of hot spots

left,

Among

9:30 club, the

mambo-sawy

as

Mie

N Yu at 3125 M Street, NW.

more important musical addresses in the New U are the Chi Cha Lounge, and the Black Cat (all profiled); the up

U Street, NW;

and coming Velvet Lounge (915

Ex (1847 l4th

Saint

to

mecca, has only a hand-

including Blues Alley and Blue Gin, both profiled

below, and such decor-heavy bars the

nightlife

Street,

NW;

(202) 462-7625); Caf6

(202) 265-7839); Local 16 (1602

U

NW; (202) 265-2828); Bohemian Caverns (2001 Eleventh Street, NW; (202) 299-0800); Cada Vez (1438 U Street, NW; (202) 667-2500); or for jazz swingers, UTopia (1418 U Street, NW; (202) 483-7669); HR-57 (1610 I4th Street, NW; (202) 667-3700); and on concert nights, the Lincoln Theater (1215 U Street, NW; (202) 3286000). For being-scenery, there are Bar Nun (1326 U Street, NW; (202) Street,

332-0533), with

soul

its

Saint (1520 l4th Street,

U

(1355

NW;

Street,

NW;

and funk music but quiet storm alcoves; the NW; (202) 234-0886); Republic Gardens

(202) 232-2710); and

Club

U

(2000 l4th

Street,

(202) 3287-8859).

Adams-Morgan (2443 18th three-level

moveable

a

is

Street,

NW;

(202)

feast,

with

starting

Rumba

Cafe

588-5501) and moving toward the

Heaven/Hell (2327 18th

Street,

NW;

(202) 667-4355); the

multi-purpose restaurant/lounge Felix (2406 18th

Street,

NW;

(202)

483-3549) and the even more ambitious culinary expeditions of the ever-

NW; (202) 328-7194); the deep-dive NW; (202) 265-9241); the 1950s gas Lounge (2435 18th Street, NW; (202) 986-

changing Cities (2424 18th

Dan's Cafe (2315 18th station-look Toledo

5416); the aptly Street,

NW;

Street,

Street,

named

coffeehouse-bar hangout Tryst (2459 18th

(202) 232-5500);

Anzu Downstairs (2436

18th Street,

NW;

(202) 462-8844); Bossa Bistro (2463 18th Street; (202) 667-

0088;

Madams Organ, with live blues, R&B, or bluegrass nightly (2461 NW; (202) 667-5370); the Blue Room (2321 18th Street,

18th Street,

NW; Road,

(202) 332-0800); salsa clasroom Latin Jazz Alley (1721

NW;

room goof Chief

Ike's

most mixed crowds

NW;

Columbia

(202) 328-6190); the quintessential beer hall-basement rec

Cosmo Lounge, which

(age, sex,

(202) 332-2211);

and

race) in

also attracts

one of the

town (1725 Columbia Road,

Pharmacy Bar (2337 18th

Street,

NW;

(202)

Washington 483-1200); 6310); and

end

Habana Village (1834 Columbia Road, NW; many others. Actually, you might end up back at

U

18th and

for late-night refueling at the

355

Nightlife

Street

(202) 462the

bottom

Duplex Diner

(phone (202) 265-7828). Nearly

as impressive

is

the millennial revival of

downtown Connecti-

cut Avenue, long a strictly commercial-business area, larly

and one

that regu-

defeated attempts to go outside the expense-account restaurant

M,

envelope. These days, the five-star intersection at Connecticut,

son and 18th

Streets,

NW,

marks the junction of

nounced "twelve twenty-three") and Ozio (both

Jeffer-

MCCXXIII

profiled); the

(pro-

swank

hall DragonAndalu (1214 fly (1215 Connecticut Avenue, NW; (202) 331-1775); Connecticut Bar Lucky (1221 18th Street, NW; (202) 785-2922); Avenue, NW; (202) 331-3733); Club Five (1214-B 18th Street, NW;

all-white

and sushi-chic (and smoker-friendly) hybrid dance

(202) 331-7123); the underground bordello-decor

NW;

Place,

8652);

(1800 18th

(202)

466-3475); Toka (1140 19th

Club Monaco (3235

M

Street; (202)

Street,

NW;

strip joints (see

you, just turn

M

Street,

NW;

Red (1802

Street,

NW;

Jefferson

(202) 429-

(202) 965-2118);

Yuca

785-1177); and the 18th Street Lounge (1212

(202) 466-3922). There are even a couple of neo-hip

"The Sex Thing", below). And

up the

if all that's

(1345 Connecticut Avenue,

NW;

much

too

street to the intentionally retro beer-bar

for

Big Hunt

(202) 785-2333).

Most remarkable, however, is the Kennedy Center's gift to Washington musiclovers: the Millennium Stage, which provides national and top and patrons a free show at 6 p.m. every local acts in an indoor venue

—

—

day of the

year.

Live entertainment in Washington can be divided into three categories: legitimate theater, comedy,

and

club profiles that follow focus clubs,

rock/pop/jazz/country music.

live

on

music,

live

comedy

The

clubs, discos/dance

and noteworthy after-hours scenes because they generally require (In some cases, live music venues might sell out par-

no advance planning.

ticular performances, so call ahead.)

comedy

clubs,

and

Nightly schedules of live music clubs,

theatrical productions, as well as listings

rooms, opera companies, movie showtimes, ington Post Friday

"Weekend"

section

etc., are

and the

free

of piano

printed in the Wash-

Washington City Paper.

Legitimate Theater Washington boasts more than counting the Kennedy

a

dozen major

theatrical

Center's five stages separately)

venues (not even

and more than a

half-dozen smaller residential and repertory companies, plus university theaters, small special-interest venues,

are

and

where national touring companies,

itinerant troupes.

classical

The Big

Six

musicians, and celebrity

356

Entertainment and Nightlife

PartTen

productions are most apt to show up, and they have the most complete facihties for

handicapped patrons. They are

Washington

expensive. But

is

and

theaters are rapidly getting bigger,

On

any given night

you might

arts

boom, and

the "small"

better.

Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts, Symphony Orchestra under Leonard

at the

see the resident National

Concert Hall,

Slatkin or a visiting philharmonic in the 2,500-seat straight

be the most

also likely to

performing

in a

drama or

classic farce in the 1,100-seat

com-

spectacular, or premier cru ballet

and a Broadway musical, kabuki

a

Eisenhower Theater,

—

Opera House that is, when the Washington Opera, under general director Placido Domingo, is not in residence. The two smaller arenas. Terrace Theater and Theater Lab, share the third floor with the restaurant (which has a nice view if you can get it) and

pany

in the 2,300-seat

archives. Philip Johnson's steeply canted

the nation of

accommodate

and showcases;

the avant

Shear Madness is

is

at Virginia

gate; the closest

a free shuttle

467-4600 or

and

New

visit

restaurants, bars

its

Streets,

and sports

bars,

NW,

has become

dance clubs,

station.

which moved

It

Among

in

now

constructing a second, larger theater

Street that will offer jazz, dance, film

productions. Each season

It

art galleries,

that "Penn Quarter" has been added

grandly renovated Lansburg Building.

headline.

a lively

also

1

992 from

it

seats

on

free

Shakespeare

at

NW,

theaters.

name of

beloved but

its

new

and chamber music,

digs in the

at

it is

620 F

as well as, the-

classic plays, three

regularly corrals a few major stage

puts

and

to the

around the corner

produces four

Avenue

complex of

about 450; but

and screen

the

amphitheater every summer. The Shakespeare Theater Street,

(202)

the most important

at the Folger Shakespeare Library into

Shakespeare, and

call

the neighborhood just north of Pennsylvania

the Shakespeare Theatre,

atrical

next to the Water-

For tickets and information,

the Archives/Navy Memorial Metro

now

NW,

www.kennedy-center.org.

so busy, in fact,

cramped home

farce

Foggy Bottom, and the Center operates

is

station.

murder

The Kennedy Cen-

second decade.

Hampshire Avenues,

subway station

from the

between Fourth and 12th

is

from

the Theater Lab, designed to

in

cabaret, the semi-improvised

halfway through

and

Penn Quarter,

It's

gift

Japan, houses experimental or cult-interest productions,

specialty concerts,

ter

and gracious Terrace, a

is

by

stars to

Carter-Barron at

450 Seventh

near the Gallery Place and Archives/Navy Memorial/Penn

Quarter subway stops; for information, (202) 547-1 122; TTY (202) 6383863; www.shakespearetheatre.org.

There

is still

Shakespeare

at the Folger, a

handful of productions in an

intimate setting that suggests a nobleman's banquet hall (201 East Capitol Street;

(202) 544-7077).

Washington

357

Nightlife

Woolly Mammoth, which has been borrowing performance space its neighbors in the l4th and U corridor, has new digs at Seventh and D, (202) 393-3939. Warehouse Theater is a few blocks north at from

1021 Seventh, (202) 783-3933. Ford's, where the balcony box in which

Abraham Lincoln was

shot remains draped in black (and spectrally

inhabited, according to rumor),

is

production of Dickens's Ford's

is

511 10th

at

A

comfy and

a smallish (750-seat) but

newly renovated venue that hosts primarily family

fare

such

as the

annual

Christmas Carol and musicals and revues.

Street,

NW

(Metro Center subway); (202) 347-

4833; www.fordstheatre.org.

The Warner Theatre, which thon,

is

service.

now a

Although

and musicals,

survived a two-year restoration mara-

rococo delight, complete with a few special boxes with food it

it still

is

emphasizing more legitimate theatrical bookings

occasionally barkens back to the days

when

it

was one

of the nicer small-concert venues for popular music, (the reclusive Brian

The Warner

Wilson, for instance, chose the Warner for his "Smile" tour). is

at

13th and

information,

E

NW,

Streets,

near Federal Triangle or Metro Center; for

www.wamertheatre.com.

(202) 783-4000 or go to

call

The National Theatre, which was thoroughly, if a little stored in Miami heat pastels a few years ago, is managed by Organization, which not only books there but

National

more and more often is

at

uses

touring Broadway productions

its it

pre-Broadway tryouts. The

for

1321 Pennsylvania Avenue,

NW,

or Metro Center subway stop. For information, tickets, call

The

(800) 447-7400 or

tripartite

Arena Stage

visit

is

near the Federal Triangle call

(202) 628-6161; for

www.nationaltheatre.org.

the most prestigious of Washington

dent companies and was a prime factor regional theater.

The Fichandler

in the rebirth

tiny,

Room

show

fewer than 200.

Though

(such as a dizzying reenactment of the

it

likes to

Marx

resi-

of American

theater-in-the-round seats a

800; the Kreeger holds more than 500; and the seats

showily, re-

the Shubert

little

over

pubbish Old Vat off

its

versatility

Brothers' "Coconuts" or the

Flying Karamazov Brothers acting in The Brothers Karamazov), the Arena is

dedicated and

fearless,

producing Athol Fugard and August Wilson,

as

and Eugene O'Neill. The Arena is at Sixth on the waterfront, which is also the Metro sta-

well as Tennessee Williams

—

and Maine Avenue, SW tion; phone (202) 488-3300 or

visit

www.arena-stage.org.

Although many of these professional productions can be pricey and often sell out, the Ticket Place office, also down in Penn Quarter and right

down from

enth

Street,

NW,

to 10 percent

Shakespeare Theatre and Woolly sells

Mammoth at 407 Sev-

half-price tickets (plus a service charge

amounting

of the face value) for same-day shows and concerts. Cash,

traveler's checks,

and debit cards

are accepted.

The

Ticket Place

is

open

358

Entertainment and Nightlife

PartTen

Tuesday-Saturday from

Monday shows for a

list

a.m. until 6 p.m.; tickets for Sunday and

1 1

on Saturday when available; call (202) 842-5387 tickets. The Kennedy Center also sells a limited

are sold

of available

number of same-day

tickets at half price

and

offers half-price tickets for

and those with perma-

students, seniors, military, fixed-income families,

nent

disabilities.

For more information,

number of standing-room returned seats

passes

may be available as Top Centre sell

the area such as

events, but they usually

impose a

at

call

(202) 467-4600.

A

limited

reduced prices and occasional

well. (Several other ticket

vendors in

and sporting

tickets to area concerts

large service charge.)

Washington's "off-Broadway" theaters are clustered around the

revital-

NW, neighborhood, specializing in new and cuttingedge works. Among the most intriguing are Source Theater Co. (1835 14th Street, NW; (202) 462-1073); 1409 Playbill Cafe (1409 l4th Street, NW; (202) 232-4552); Arena Stage at l4th and T; and the Studio Theater (l4th and P Streets, NW; (202) 332-3300), which is unveilized I4th Street,

ing a three-stage expansion.

The

Line, a nearby

and

Metro

Jewish-interest Theater J

NW;

blocks away (1529 l6th Street,

station (called

U Street-Cardozo)

is

is

On

(202) 518-9418).

just a

the

few

Green

located at l4th

U Streets. One

boom

is

not limited to downtown,

the strongest "small" theaters

is

Signature Theatre in Arlington, which

The

theater-building

has received strong national reviews, especially of tions

(3806 South Four Mile

new

also building a

nearly three times

Mason

Run

its

either.

of

Sondheim produc-

Drive; (703) 218-6500); Signature

is

space, yet another two-stage space that will seat

its

current 135.

The Center

for the Arts at

George

University, (703) 993-ARTS, in Fairfax, also hosts a varied pro-

gram of arts and

letters, as

In the past few years, a

well as performances.

number of impressive performance venues have

been developed in the Maryland suburbs, several accessible by subway.

One, the new Music Center

at

Strathmore Hall

in

North Bethesda, has

from the Grosvenor/Strathmore Metro station. The original Strathmore Hall already hosted tea-time concerts on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, along with summertime concerts and familya dedicated pedestrian overpass

fare films

on

the lawn;

mation on programs

it

call

also has art galleries

(301) 530-0540.

and

crafts

The Music

shows; for infor-

Center, which seats

2,000, books national classical and pop singers, visiting orchestras,

On tion,

the is

and

folk

same Metro

line, just across

one of two performance

Theater company (301)644-1100).

symphony

and blues society shows.

(East- West

the street from the Bethesda sta-

stages belonging to the

Highway and Waverly

Round House

Street, Bethesda;

— Washington

359

Nightlife

Farther out the Red Line, near the Rockville Metro stop, is Montgomery College and the Robert E. Parilla Performing Arts Center (for the box office call (301) 279-5301), which brings in European ballet and

symphony orchestra, and such family-oriented touring acts as Mickey Rooney and old Broadway shows. There is no shuttle, but bus or cab service

is

available

performance

from the

station.

Maryland now boasts one of the

In addition,

arts

complexes.

forming Arts Center

at

The

most impressive

Smith Per-

Maryland, on the College Park campus on the

University of Maryland, offers as

(and in several

area's

recently completed Clarice

many

venues

as the

Kennedy Center

even more cutting-edge acoustical and recording

cases,

Dekelboum Concert Hall, the 180-seat Dance Theatre, the 650-seat proscenium Kay Theatre, the 300-seat Gildenhom Recital Hall, the intimate 100-seat Laboratory Theatre, technology): the 1,100-seat

and the 200-seat "black box"-style Kogod Theatre. Also on the campus, but not actually in the Smith complex, seat Broadway-style

home

the

is

Tawes Theatre,

proscenium, which has been for

many

a 1,350-

years the

of the prestigious William Kapell Piano Competition,

Recent Smith Center offerings have ranged from Chinese opera and

and the Bang on a Company, to the theCan All-Stars, and the Merce Cunningham Dance Guarneri and the Trojan Women, atre department's production of The the Shanghai Traditional Orchestra, to Phillip Glass

String Quartet in

open

rehearsal.

The

Clarice Smith Center

sity

Green Line subway shuttles directly

And

at

Univer-

to the College Park Station

Montgomery County:

Olney Theatre (200 1 Olney-

the

(301) 924-3400) and the increasingly

popular BlackRock Center for the Arts in

Commons

Drive; (301) 528-2260).

stage, a

1

With

30-seat dance theater, and an outdoor performance stage

plus exbition galleries

Chamber

Marcus Roberts

Players, Richie

is

Among

Trio, the Baltimore

films

one of the best examrecent artists

booked

Symphony Orchestra

Havens, Janis Ian, local rockbilly and soul faves

Ruthie and the Wranglers and

and

and outdoor family

and classrooms, BlackRock

of "new town" community centers.

there are the

Germantown (12901 Town three venues— a 210-seat

its

for theatrical productions, festivals, concerts,

ples

free

although they require cars (or friends), there are two other promi-

Sandy Spring Road, Olney;

main

and take one of two

to the Stamp Student Union or the campus "Circuit"shuttle to the complex. For more information call (301) 405-2787.

nent venues in

ers

is

Boulevard and Stadium Drive in College Park; you can take the

Mary Ann Redmond, and

indie film

mak-

storytellers.

In addition, several of the

concerts of classical, jazz,

downtown

pop or

public buildings frequently hold

folk music,

and even some medieval

360

PartTen

consorts,

Entertainment and Nightlife

among them

Washington National Cathedral, the National

the

Gallery of Art, the Library of Congress

and the National Museum of Nat-

History, which on Thursdays hosts Jazz

ural

on

IMAX.

at the

and

these, plus the handful of smaller theaters

For information

itinerant companies,

check the "Guide to the Lively Arts" in the Washington Post Friday "Week-

end" or Sunday "Show" sections or the

free City

Paper handout.

In general, Washington audiences have loosened their

comes is,

the

ularly

black

tie (or "creative

tally,

many of the

theater

menus

Comedy

in

Washington

is

To some

black

but you can go

tie"),

as

full

of jokes

—and

that's

formers (those "Washington institutions" whose relatively gentle); the sketch

are the anti-estabUshment baby-busters first

two groups

comedians range from

inciden-

who

—

podium

satires are usually

and the stand-up

in

some

musi-

artists

who

cases, the urban guer-

room.

to locker

is

Omni Shoreham

at the

still

the cabaret per-

styles:

the cabaret comedians

whose residency

terms and

one. Capital comedians

are almost unavoidably political; the stand-up

political

The most famous of Russell,

And

and improvisational troupes from

the post- Watergate Saturday Night Live era;

The

are.

Washington and

and

you

(and bargain) prices; be sure to inquire.

at fixed

first

torial

it

nicer restaurants near the big-ticket venues offer pre-

the

rillas.

when

extent, the

divide very roughly into three generations

cal

ties

more "serious" a production dressier the crowd, although jeans have become ubiquitous, particat the smaller, avant-garde companies. Opening nights are often to theater attire.

plays several

weeks

PBS

irregular

Mark

lasted about four sena-

at a

time

at Ford's

Theatre

every year (online at www.markrussell.net).

The most

loyal opposition

former and current Hill

is

offered

staffers

who

by the Capitol Steps, a group of

roast their

own

hosts by rewriting

familiar songs with pun-ishing lyrics. In addition to entertaining at semiofficial

functions (which

may

be one reason

blunted compared to some more outspoken

why

their barbs are a tad

satirists'),

the Capitol Steps

are a popular tourist attraction and perform every Friday and Saturday at

the Ronald Reagan International Trade Building at 13th nia,

NW;

call

(202)

and Pennsylva-

312-1555; www.capsteps.com. The Metro

stop

is

Federal Triangle.

After a few years' hiatus.

Comedy

Sportz has reformed and plays

its

Whose Line Is It, Anyway-style games Thursdays through Saturdays on the third floor of the Metro-connected Ballston Common Mall (phone (703) 294-5233).

Gross National Product (reservations at (202) 783-7212), an underground resistance movement that went above-ground after Reagan's

Washington election,

is

now

and

a national act

is

in residence in

Nightlife

New

ture,

is

its

obsession:

it

struc-

skewers snoops, creeps, and veeps with gusto

long tenure, a hint of childish

its

York or Los

power

Angeles at various times. Politics, especially the executive

and, despite

361

glee.

Revues have

titles

Hundred Daze" and "A Newt World Order." like "Clintoons: long, and since topicality is the name of the minutes about 90 Shows are

The

game,

and

skits rise

was on

First

fall

GNP

hiatus).

GNP

with the state of the world. (At press time,

one of Washington's more unique

also operates

tour services, Scandal Tours, which takes sightseers past such political

landmarks

as

where

Hart's townhouse; the Jefferson Hotel,

Gary

cal gun-for-hire

Dick Morris simultaneously sucked

and directed the Democrats' campaign

strategy;

politi-

a prostitute's toes

and Fanne

Fox's

—

impromptu swimming pool, the Tidal Basin an event retold by sex scandal veteran "Bob Packwood." Scandal Tours depart from the Old Post Office Pavilion Saturdays at

p.m. (reservations

1

at (202)

783-

www.gnpcoinedy.com) The overbooking and overbuilding that made comedy shops the fastfood entertainment of the 1980s is giving way to more exclusive (or at least better-budgeted) clubs. The most reliable are the downtown fran-

7212; information

at

.

chise of the star-circuit

Evening

at the

Improv

(profiled)

comic showcase's Wiseacres (8401 Westpark Drive

and the in

cable-

the Tysons

Westpark Hotel; (877) 947-3227 or (703) 734-2800). Hip, gay, and Kate Clinton, Paula Poundstone, straight comedians of both sexes Dennis

regularly colleges.

—do

—

Washington that many are booked not into clubs but into mid-sized theatrical venues and Many nightclubs and restaurants offer comedy one night a

Miller,

Judy Tenuta

so well in

week; check newspapers for specific In general, local

all

beginner

clubs

who

now follow a

patters

listings.

standard lineup: the opener, usually a

about ten minutes and also serves

(and who, especially on open mike night,

between a smooth production and a either

cable

may mean

free-for-all);

as

emcee

the difference

the "featured act,"

an experienced journeyman or perhaps a second-rank national or

TV performer, who does about 30 minutes; and the headliner, usu-

ally

somebody with Letterman

who

performs about an hour.

or

Leno

credits or at least a cable special,

Live Pop, Rock, and Jazz Although

it isn't

widely advertised, for some reason, Washington

is

a

haven for music lovers of all types, and in the summer especially an astonishing amount of music is free to the public. From classical to college-radio rock, from hole-in-the-wall to the Washington Mall, you can hear

it all.

Credit for the

rise in

live-music clubs in the Washington

362 area

Entertainment and Nightlife

PartTen

is

split

between the booming third-world community, used

hours and different music

to later

and twentysomething

styles; the large college

population looking for entertainment, along with the thirtysomethings

who

started looking ten years ago;

and don't want

number of

the increasing

twenty- and thirty- and even fortysomethings

who

live in

go downtown for a good time; the more

to

those

the suburbs assertive

gay

and faux-prole communities seeking accommodation; and the fair number of stubborn musicians and underground entrepreneurs who have and support networks

established venues

Jazz, of course, has a long history in

U

1940s the

for themselves

Washington

Street/Howard Theater corridor was

Harlem. But

Broadway" and

rivaled

and bankrupted

clubs, jazz

is

reviving

after years all

—

and one another.

in the

known

1930s and

as the

"Black

of declining audiences

around the

area;

and the num-

ber of young jazz musicians, black and white, classical and contemporary, is

remarkable. In

Cardozo Metro

fact,

the Lincoln Theater (not far from the

U Street, NW;

1215

at

U

Street-

(202) 328-6000), which used to

be one of the most popular stops for nationally ranked performers, has

been restored to jazz

Among

Georgian Revival glory and

its

and pop shows

is

beginning to feature

again.

and Takoma Sta-

the best places to hear jazz are Blues Alley

tion Tavern (profiled); Twins (1344

Colorado Avenue,

NW;

City (1250 South Hayes

U Street;

(202) 234-0072 and

5516

(202) 882-2523); the Ritz-Carlton Pentagon Street,

Arhngton; (703) 415-5000); the Basin

Lounge/219 Restaurant (219 King Street, Alexandria, VA; (703) 549-1 141); The Ice House Cafe (760 Elden Street, Herndon, Virginia;

Street

Bangkok Blues,

(703) 437-4500);

(926 West Broad

Street, Falls

tion (2325 18th Street,

Eighth (424-A Eighth Caverns,

like the

NW;

a fine Thai restaurant in

its

own

right

Church; (703) 534-0095); Columbia Sta(202) 462-6040); U-Topia; Ellington's on

Street,

SE; (202) 546-8308); and

Bohemian

Lincoln Theater, an old club rediscovered. In addition,

many hotels have fine jazz pianists in their lounges. The mega-rock concert venues tend to be sports arenas doing double duty: The 20,000-plus-seat MCI Center downtown, home to the Washington Bullets basketball and Washington Wizards hockey teams; the 50,000-seat

RFK

Stadium, erstwhile home of the Redskins football accessible by Metro to the Sta-

team (which has the advantage of being

and the all-purpose 10,000-seat Patriot Center

dium/Armory

stop);

lege arena at

George Mason

in Fairfax,

big-name country concerts. Tickets

by phone from TicketMaster

for these

at

www.tickemaster.com), but beware: have been

known

which

(202)

shows are usually available

432-7328

"service charges"

to reach $4.50 per ticket

col-

also tends to carry the

—not per

(or

online

and handling

order.

at

fees

Washington

The most popular outdoor commercial venue oflF

Route 7

ment

—pop,

363

Nightlife

Wolf Trap Farm Park

is

Vienna, Virginia, which offers almost nightly entertain-

in

country, jazz and

R&B,

MOR (middle-of-the-road) rock, and

even ballet and Broadway musical tours

—and

picnicking under the stars

summer at its Filene Center amphitheater. During the winter season. Wolf Trap shifts to its small but acoustically great Bams, literally two rebuilt barns; among its best concerts are the annual Folk Masters series coordinated with the Smithsonian. Wolf Trap has started its own during the

phone

service called ProTix,

which charges lower

fees

than TicketMaster

(and thus has not incurred the wrath of any popular rock group); log on to

www.wolftrap.org or

call

(703) 218-6500 for

On

Wolf Trap shows.

sum-

mer nights, the Metro operates a $5 round- trip shuttle service from the West

Church

Falls

whichever

The

watch your watch: the

station to the Filene Center, but

return shuttle leaves either is earlier, in

20 minutes

after the final curtain or at

p.m.,

1 1

order to ensure that riders don't miss the Metro.

Merriweather Post Pavilion

recently upgraded

in

Columbia,

Maryland, has the busiest pop/rock outdoor arena and mixes old-favorite rock and pop tours with younger-draw and cult acts (Norah Jones, Kid

Rock, even Incubus and Bela Fleck); but ton and can only be reached by

newspapers for current

some

it is

However,

listings.)

distance from Washing-

uses the ProTix network; see

car. (It also

it

new

has a

rival

around the

other side of the Beltway: the Nissan Pavilion outside Manassas, Virginia,

which has 10,000 covered ple.

seats,

and lawn

seating for another 15,000 peo-

Operated by Cellar Door Productions, the

the east coast (and owners of the

Nissan Pavilion

is

Bayou

currendy booking

many

use the TicketMaster network (phone

of the same acts

(202)

pavilion.com). Like Merriweather Post, however, car.

The more

progressive rock acts,

booking agency on

largest

nightclub in Georgetown), the as

MPP;

both

432-7328; www.nissan can only be reached by

it

which draw strong

college

and post-

grad audiences, tend to be booked into college auditoriums such as George

Washington

University's Lisner

Auditorium or Smith Center. National are often booked gospel, soul, folk

—

— R&B,

acts

with limited audiences

into

DAR Constitution Hall alongside the Ellipse.

listings for entertainers

Mason is

Check

and phone numbers while you're

the newspaper

in town.

George

University Center for the Arts, which adjoins the Patriot Center,

a lovely

new

mid-sized venue for

classical

and

jazz

music and drama.

Tickets available at (703) 218-6500 orwww.tickets.com.

You

will also find concerts at

many Washington

the National Cathedral and depending

museums and There

churches, including

on the time of

year,

inside

galleries.

are several fine

Freedom Plaza

at

1

outdoor music venues

in the area, including

4th and Pennsylvania Avenue near the White House,

364

PartTen

home

to

Entertainment and Nightlife

numerous

free

particularly the annual

music and ethnic

Amphitheatre

July celebrations. Carter-Barron hosts gospel, soul, jazz,

and

during the summer,

festivals

DC World Jazz Fest held

during the Fourth of

Rock Creek Park

in

R&B concerts on summer weekends.

Several

other smaller city parks, museums, and federal building plazas stage concerts that are listed in the

newspapers.

The Mall between the U.S. Capitol and the site of many festivals during the year,

the

Washington Monument

especially

on such holidays

is

as

Memorial Day, the Fourth of July, and Labor Day, when the National

Symphony

Orchestra headlines

family concerts.

The

Smithsonian's

annual Festival of American Folklife, which features three or four ferent ethnic groups every year, also has

night;

it

holiday

dif-

parties every

runs from the weekend before the Fourth of July through the

itself

The most important

clubs booking national alternative rock acts are

the 9:30 club, the Black Cat, and the filed)

music and dance

near the

Nation on Capitol

Navy Yard Metro (Half and

K

Streets,

Hill

(all

pro-

SE; (202) 554-

1500).

For

folk, country,

Birchmere Carpenter

both for

as favorite

local

cult oldie,

and bluegrass music, the Landmark venue is the which boasts Mary Chapin

in Alexandria, Virgina (profiled),

is

daughter.

One

of the increasingly important venues

and national bookings, plus the rare eccentric, country or the State Theater in Falls Church, a great vintage movie

theater turned restaurant/bar/concert venue (220 Street; (703)

237-0300). Half

Moon

Bar-B-Q, in

North Washington Silver Springs (pro-

books local and national R&B, blues, Cajun and rockabilly a decendent of the old Twist and Shout club of the Mary Chapin Carpenfiled)

ter song.

Jammin' Java

(also profiled)

books music nearly every night.

Piano bars are legion, but the best and most accomplished jazz at Circle

The on

just

(One Washington

Bistro

Circle; (202)

best bets for acoustic, folk-rock,

modern pop,

any old night are Iota

which

local progressive level national

(profiled),

is

played

293-5390).

is

or original music

especially popular with

pop/rock writers; Jammin' Java, also booking second-

and

local acts nightly

(227 Maple Avenue, Vienna; (703)

255-1566); Austin Grill (919 Ellsworth Avenue, Silver Spring; (240)

247-8969); and Whitlow's on Wdson (2854 Wilson Boulevard, Arlington; (703) 276-9693); the Clarendon Grill (1101 North Highland Street; (703)

524-7455); and the Rhodeside GrUl (1836 Wilson Boule-

vard, Arlington; (703) 243-0145);

borhood. The

last

of the

area's

all

in the hot

Tiffany Tavern in Alexandria (1116 King indie rockers are likely to

new Clarendon

once-plentiful bluegrass spots

show up

at

Street; (703)

neighis

the

836-8844). Art-

Galaxy Hut, owned by popular

— Washington

365

Nightlife

edge-cutter Alice Despard (2711 Wilson Boulevard, Arlington; (703)

525-8646). "Coffeehouses" are flourishing (the folk music

cappuccino type, though they're booming, too), but

variety,

many

not the

coffeehouse

acoustic-music events occur only monthly in area churches or schools;

check the papers.

some of

Old-style blues has lost there are

the

still

its

New Vegas Lounge

best venues in recent years, but

(1415 P

ginia; (703)

NW;

Street,

3971); the Sunset GrUl (7250 Columbia Pike,

NW,

(202) 483-

Annandale, Vir-

658-0928); Fat Tuesday's (10673 Braddock Road, Fairfax;

(703) 385-8660); and J.V.'s (6666 Arlington Boulevard, Falls Church; (703) 241-9504). Irish bars

resident

do

a flourishing business in

and almost always Ireland's

one

at least

Four Provinces (by

NW;

necticut Avenue,

(202) 543-5433);

Avenue,

Washington with the help of

community of performers. Among

NW;

—

are the

the Cleveland Park

(202) 244-0860); Irish

Nanny

Dubliner Metro

Times (14 F

(profiled);

3412 Con-

at

Street,

NW;

O'Brien's across the street (3319 Connecticut

Fado Irish Pub (808 Seventh Street, Old Brogue (760-C Walker Road, Great

(202) 686-9189);

NW;

(202) 789-0066); the

Falls,

Virginia;

Alexandria,

fireplace

a

the pubs with live music

(703) 759-3309); Pat Troy's (111

Virginia;

North

Pit Street,

and Flanagan's

549-4535);

(703)

(near

the

7637 Old Georgetown Road, Bethesda, Maryland; (301) 986-1007), which also hosts the semiannual appearances of Irish veterans Tommy Makem and the Furey Brothers. Bethesda station

The

local reggae acts generally play the

consin Avenue, Central;

nights Kili's

Dead

and the

NW;

State Theater

is

also

on Thursdays; and

Street,

home

to

NW;

is

(2408 Wis-

Deadhead

also local

at the east or

at 8

occasionally

Monday

show up

at

(202) 232-1562).

one other type of band: the armed serv-

bands. From about Memorial

and Sunday

& Tankard

diehards can also drop by LuLu's (profiled) on

the four branches perform

p.m.

Grog

(202) 333-3114), which

Kafe (2009 Eighth

Washington ices

at

Day

to

Labor Day, ensembles from

Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday

at

8

west side of the Capitol; Tuesday, Thursday, Friday,

p.m.

at various locations;

and Tuesday

at 8

p.m.

at the

Navy Memorial at 7th and Pennsylvania Avenue, NW. Call (703) 6963399 or visit www.army.mil/armyband for details. Programs include patriotic and martial numbers, country, jazz, pop, and some classical music. You're welcome to bring brown bags, but alcohol is not permitted.

Swing Your Partner Country and disco dancing have been big ethnic and folk dancing

—

for years in

Washington, but

klezmer, polka, contra, Cajun

—

as well as

366

PartTen

Entertainment and Nightlife

swing dance and big-band boogie are also popular, especially in the suburbs. Their venues are also nonthreatening gles,

even novices, since

the steps, and

all

many have

and hospitable spots

for sin-

pre-dance "workshops" for learning

seem well supplied with

tolerant

and

deft "leaders."

Dance

For swing dancing, the best bets are the Washington Swing

Committee, which holds Saturday night dances weather

at the

in

all

but the coldest

grand deco Spanish Ballroom in the old Glen Echo amuse-

ment park in Bethesda, Maryland (information at: (301) 492-6282); the Clarendon Ballroom (3185 Wilson Boulevard, Arlington, Virginia; (703) 469-2244); Chevy Chase Ballroom (5207 Wisconsin Avenue, NW; (202) 462-0820); Hollywood Ballroom in Silver Spring, Maryland (2126 Industrial Parkway; (301) 622-5494). The America branch in Union

Station sometimes hosts bands, too; call (202) 682-9555. Various

restaurants

around town

tra

swing

are experimenting with martini-lounge

nights during the week; check the local listings. For folk, Cajun,

and con-

dances contact the Folklore Society of Greater Washington at (202)

546-2228 or www.fsgw.org.

You can polka (and pile on the bratwurst) to your heart's content any Sunday at Blob's Park, a Bavarian-fantasy beer hall and polka pavilion in Jessup, Maryland, that holds 1 ,000 revelers and a Friday, Saturday, or

five-man

oompah

band; for information,

call

(410) 799-0155 or

visit

www.blobspark.com. For country, try Nick's in Alexandria (642 South Pickett

Street; (703)

751-8900) or Spurs (2106 Grain Highway Waldorf; (301) 843-9964). For Latin dancing, try Bravo Bravo (1001 Connecticut Avenue,

NW;

Cuzco (5831 Columbia Pike, Falls Church, Virginia; (703) 845-1661); Habana Village in Adams-Morgan, which has salsa lessons on Wednesday through Friday (1834 Columbia Road, NW; (202) 223-5330);

462-6310);

(202)

Cafe Citron

(1343

NW;

Connecticut Avenue,

(202)530-8844); or Latin Alley, also in Adams-Morgan, for lessons and

dance Wednesday through Saturday (1721 Columbia Road,

NW;

(202)

328-6190). For Brady Bunch-styk 1970s retro and 1980s imports, try Polly Esther's, a Saturday Night Fever revival club for white lipstick lovers

open Thursday through Saturday (605 12th

737-1970; and in the Rockville Doubletree Hotel Pike, Rockville, Maryland; (301) 881-7341);

Street, at

NW;

(202)

1750 Rockville

and the Thursday

regular

Heaven/Hell in Adams-Morgan (above). The 20-to-40 crowd that's into Top 40 disco tends to hang out at MCCXXIII and Platinum (both profiled); the Edge (56 L Street, SE; gig at

(202) 488-1200); and

Home Nightclub

4663). Internationals head to

And

the

new

indie-rock, brit

Dream

and

(91

1

F

Street,

NW;

and Zanzibar (both

"electroclash" club,

(202) 638profilied).

booking

live

and

spinning simultaneously, is DC 9 (1940 Ninth Street, NW; (202) 4835000), a double-wide complex of bars, faux bedrooms, and DJ booms.

Washington

367

Nightlife

Ashes to Ashes Here

many

as in

other urban centers, cigars are the

tication

manque. Aside from Ozio

jumped

the trend-bar time

Butlers Cigar Bar (1000 is

Room

SheU/s Back

wine bar by the

at

warp and remodeled

H

(1331 F

menu

with a cigar

show of sophis-

old sports bar into

its

NW; (202) 637-4765). Not far away Street, NW; (202) 737-3003). And the

Street,

Melrose restaurant

glass

latest

Grand Hyatt Hotel has

(profiled), the

in the

Park Hyatt Hotel

(1201 24th

Street,

is

NW;

mixing

its

wines

(202) 955-3899).

Espresso and Eight-ball The two

Washington are coffee bars and billiards paryou can spend not merely hours but whole evenings, and

biggest trends in

lors.

At

either

in a

few

cases,

hang out

Many of the espresso dows. But a couple are in the

city,

The

even

if

virtually

among

some

mere

are

service

around

are

Georgetown

Dave

& Buster's and Buffalo

Billiards (3251 Prospect Street,

4600 Wis-

(202) 965-7665); Babe's (near the Tenleytown Metro at

NW;

consin Avenue,

Champion

(202) 966-0082);

Billiards (1776 East

which

Jefferson Street, Rockville, Maryland; (301) 231-4949),

food until

1

Fairfax Drive, Arlington, Vir-

532-7665), which has the specific attraction of serving barbe-

cue from Rocklands

Bungalow

also serves

a.m. Sunday through Thursday, and until 3 a.m. on Friday

and Saturday; and CarPooI (4000 North ginia; (703)

win-

interesting after-hours hangouts

most

the

the patrons are the only "entertainment."

biggest billiards parlors

Billiards (both profiled);

NW;

around the clock.

bars are tiny walk-ins;

(see

its

profile in Part Nine:

Dining and Restaurants).

Billiards (13891 Metrotech Drive, Chantilly, Virginia; (703)

502-0804 and 7003-C Manchester Boulevard, Alexandria, (703) 924-8730); occasionally offers

For funkier decor and a

less

(3427 Connecticut Avenue,

live

entertainment

formal atmosphere, try

NW,

at the

Virginia;

as well.

Atomic

Billiards

Cleveland Park Metro; (202)

363-7665); or Bedrock Billiards (1841 Columbia Road,

NW;

(202)

667-7665).

True Brews Washington has entire

—

another fresh brew

also discovered

Washington-Baltimore region has gone

brewpubs and microbreweries has made

it

brewers in style and also to taste a huge

sners

and

als.

And most

Among

the

wheat

downtown brewpubs

of the works,

are the Capital

A boom

in

pil-

bocks, and seasonif you're intrigued.

City Brewing Co.

H

Streets,

(202) 628-2222), in the Village at Shirlington (2700 South

Quincy

branches near the Washington Convention Center

NW;

In fact, the

suds.

number of recipes, from

ales, fruit beers,

offer at least informal tours

beer.

possible to support your local

craft

lagers to stouts, porters,

silly for

Street, Arlington, Virginia; (703)

(1

1th

and

578-3888), and in the Postal

Museum

368

Entertainment and Nightlife

PartTen

NW;

building (2 Massachusetts Avenue,

much

singles scenes as beer temples;

(202) 842-2337), which are as

R.F.D. (810 Seventh

Brewhouse,

a branch of a

Pennsylvania Avenues,

Cambridge, Massachusetts,

NW;

NW;

Street,

John Harvard's

(202) 289-2030) doesn't brew, but carries 300 beers.

favorite (13th

and

(202) 783-2739). In Bethesda, the latest

Cap City group goes mug to mug with Rock Bottom Old Georgetown Road and Woodmont Avenue; (301) 6521311. Among other popular spots where vats are on view are Summit

outpost of the

Brewery

at

Station in Gaithersburg, Maryland (227 East

Diamond Avenue;

(301)

519-9400); Dr. Dremo's Taphouse (2001 Clarendon Boulevard, Arlington; (703) 528-4660); or

Old Dominion Brewing Co.

in

Ashburn, Vir-

which

is

also the area's

ginia (44633 Guilford Drive; (703) 724-9100),

most

successful

microbrewing company.

For more Washington suds stops, check the profile of the Brickskeller or the "Freshest Beers" restaurant

list

on page 270.

The SexThing Washington

is

not the singles capital of the world, but

it

does have

many

of the ingredients for a busy meat-market scene: frequent turnovers in power, a dozen colleges and universities, a continual influx of immigrants

and corporate

hires,

and what

until recently

was considered a "recession-

proof" economy.

The them

singles bars

around Washington

dance clubs

are

as well, so there's

astrological incompatibilities.

more

The

are relatively benign.

Many

of

something to do besides discuss

sports-bar habitues tend to be a

little

flagrant in their appraisals of fresh talent, as are those in bars that

cater to the fortysomething crowd.

and a

bit

west of Dupont Circle, especially around the intersection of 19th and

M

The

busiest singles strip in the District

is

midtown,

Streets,

where the Sign of the Whale (1825

1110);

Rumours (1900

ter

(1831

M

Street

M Street NW;

NW;

Georgetown, so you can have a

The

Club of Bethesda

Suburban

of

District has

many years, most

is

is

(profiled).

been

home

Anything with

to a strong gay

many

a bar will do.

community

for

mixed, albeit unobtrusive

well-established gay nightspots, espeHill.

are the Polo-label JR's (1519 17th Street,

Among

NW;

the

most popular

(202) 328-0090) near

and big-buckle Remington's (near the 639 Pennsylvania Avenue, SE; (202) 543-

Circle; the pointy-toe

Eastern Market station at

few blocks west

and cash-flow-confident crowd

around Dupont Circle and Capitol

Dupont

A

Madhat-

progressive singles party.

clubs attract at least a slightly

crowd. However, there are

(202) 785-

(202) 466-7378); and

singles centers are easy to spot:

Although the

cially

sort

busiest singles bar for the older

the Yacht

M Street, NW;

833-1495).

(202)

just south

Washington 3113), and the softcore leather-with-rhythm

Vernon Place Metro

at

639

369

Nightlife

DC Eagle (near the Mount

New York Avenue, NW;

(202) 347-6025).

Several of the hottest gay/lesbian/friendly straight dance clubs are clus-

tered

around Dupont

Among them

are

232-6969); Chaos

of D.C.'s gay culture.

Circle, the traditional heart

R

Cobalt/30 Degrees (17th and (17th and

Q

Streets,

NW;

Streets,

NW;

(202)

(202) 232-4141), with

its

Saturday and Sunday brunch drag-diva revues; and Apex, which has semi-steamy videos to go with the marathon mixes and occasional Drag

Kings shows. Club Five even has still

up

dawn;

at

it

starts at

Sunday morning "Mass"

a

for those

6 a.m.

is the most flamboyant of the outer hangouts, featuring and often astonishingly polished drag shows Thursday through Sunday (1345 Half Street, SE; (202) 554-5141). Although it's not in the safest neighborhood, Ziegfeld's will call you a cab when you're

Ziegfeld's

uproarious

ready to leave. If

you

dance but hate to eat alone, try the Annie's Paramount

can't

Steak House (1609 17th

Columbia Road, Finally,

NW;

NW;

(202) 232-0395), or Perry's (1811

Street

was

and redevelopment, old habits

die

although the onetime red-light

by

officially eradicated

North and

hard.

Street,

(202) 234-6218).

east

around 13th and

redistricting

district

of the White House, and especially in the blocks

L, prostitutes not only parade past

pedestrians but take advantage of traffic lights drivers. Periodically the police crack

nalled

by the overnight closing of

makes only lic

a

down on

Many

for soliciting singles

and proposition

and stop

signs to accost

the scene,

streets in the

temporary dent. The business

transportation:

around l4th

which

is

sig-

neighborhood; but

also takes

it

advantage of pub-

of the hotel bars along the Metro are hangouts

—and humorously, they seem

to prefer the red line,

as if in tribute to "red-light" districts.

A few from

reminders: Although most prostitutes try to protect themselves

disease,

both drug use and

are actually bait, fronts for

endanger your health and

AIDS

are pervasive. Second,

drug dealers

who

many dates

can more immediately

safety. Besides, District police are ftilly familiar

with the tricks of the trade, so

we

don't advise that

you

get involved. If

—

you must look, don't touch and keep your car doors locked. For a somewhat less hands-on experience, there are a couple of relatively sedate strip joints downtown, including Archibald's, which is on the ground floor of the

(1520

K

Avenue

Street, at

Georgetown, 333-0128).

M

Cafe building off MacPherson Square

(202) 737-2662); Camelot, just off Connecticut

NW; (202) 887-5966); and its neighbor M Street, NW; (202) 296-2191). Good Guys, above an old favorite (2311 Wisconsin Avenue, NW; (202)

1823

Mpire (1819

NW;

Comedy

Street,

is

And

for the safest fantasy trips around,

drop by Georgetown's

370

PartTen

Entertainment and Nightlife

funny/ fantasy sex boutiques:

NW;

Avenue,

the

cards, T-shirts, fishnet stockings, rival

Dream

penses

Pleasure Place (1063 Wisconsin

(202) 333-8570), which offers videos, X-rated birthday

and the Uke; and

its

across-the-street-

Dresser, a fancy-silly X-rated Victoria's Secret, which dis-

and

leather

latex

as

well

as

accoutrements (1042 Wisconsin Avenue,

More on the

lighter-hearted

NW;

and

souvenirs

(202) 625-0373).

Safety Thing

tip to remember: You're never entirely safe. There no guaranteed neighborhood in the area. In fact, we have left: some otherwise deserving and successful clubs off the list because they're in

There

is

only one safety

is

questionable territory, even for savvy residents.

The suburbs

are generally

okay, but even the ostensibly upscale areas of the District, such as

Georgetown and Dupont

Circle, are

not

immune

to crime.

leave nightclubs, especially after about 10 p.m., in

yourself to a group or ask the club

wiser to

call

a cab than to

management

for

walk more than a block or

It's

best to

company. Attach an

so.

escort.

It's

also

(Mace, inciden-

now legal in Maryland, Virginia, and the District of Columbia.) And a final tip: If you believe in helping out the homeless (the staggering number of which you may find one of the less inspiring monuments

tally, is

to

modern

life

in

Washington), try stashing dollar

outside pocket so that you can reach or purse.

Niehtclub

bills

or change in an

them without opening your

wallet

Washington

NIGHTCLUBS BY ZONE

(continued)

Nightlife

371

372

PartTen

Entertainment and Nightlife

C Profiles of Clubs

370

Mt. Vernon Avenue. Alexandria; (703) 549-7500

1

Cover Varies

with entertainment; roughly $l5-$45

$3-$8Wine

$4.50-$6.50

sal jeans,

Food

Virginia suburbs.

all

sorts

suits, a lot

—cowboy,

373

Zone

Minimum None Mixed

Beer $3.50-$5 Dress A few

neo-farm country wear and boots of

and Nightspots

I

I

drinks

of flannels, univerhiking,

motorcycle

now

available After years of getting by on potato chips, Birchmere patrons can

get serious tavern fare, including barbecue, burgers, and hot nibbles, from the folks at

Union Street Pub and King Street

Hours

Every

What

day,

6-1

goes on This

and country acts

1

start at 7:30 p.m.

one of the major clubs

especially,

Chapin Carpenter, plus

Tom

Shows

:30 p.m.

is

Blues.

in

town, the biggest for new acoustic

such as Rosanne Cash and

cult regulars Jerry Jeff Walker

hometown heroine Mary-

and Delbert McClinton; old folk

Paxton and John Stewart; new femme fronters Kristin Hersh, Christine

and

Lavin,

Maria Muldaur

Setting and atmosphere The long-awaited new home for

jumped from old-fashioned to new-fangled: not only main stage but a cigar-martini bar

(for the

expected

a

this

much more

influx of

venerable club has spacious 500-seat

trendy patrons?), a

1

50-

seat side stage/cafe, a microbrewery on-site, and "real" pub food. If

you go Go

closest-in.

If

early: Parking

is

tight (but free); the line

you're trying to eat

eat elsewhere.

light,

is

long;

and seating

Remember

is

first-come,

to take off your big hat

so the folks behind you can see. And take thankful note of the sign that asks for quiet during performances: this really

is

a listening club. Visit

www.birchmere.com

for a

schedule.

BLACK CAT MAJOR

LIVE

ROCK-POP VENUE WITH

Who GoesThere 1

8

II

4th Street.

1

Dupont

DJS

FOR BACKUP

20-^0; locals and tourist music fans

NW; (202)

667-7960; www.blackcatdc.com

Circle/ Adams-Morgan,

Zone

6

Minimum None Mixed

Cover

Varies with entertainment,

Wine

$5-$7 Beer $3-$5 Dress Ranges from grungy to

Food Thought menu the act

Hours

$5-$20

available Vegan and vegetarian

fair

drinks $5-$8

nightclub-hip,

depending on

from the now-defunct Food for

Sunday-Thursday, 8 p.m.-2 a.m.; Friday and Saturday, 7 p.m.-3 a.m.

Metro U

Street/Cardoza

What goes on A

mix of hot regional and early-national alternative rock, funky-punk,

and high-ticket camp

(El

Vez, the "Mexican Elvis," etc.).

Setting and atmosphere The larger room holds 600, the rear room (aka the "Backstage") only about 100, so that's

sometimes turned over to dance club on the week-

ends, with a mix of synth pop, film, Brit-indie, and even If

you go A who's-who

some mod and

cult garage.

of indie rock has passed through the Black Cat, so buy

advance tickets for major concerts and expect some sweating crowds for louder

acts.

374

Entertainment and Nightlife

PartTen

BLUE GIN EURO-CHIC, RETRO-LO UNGE-LIZARD, SLEEK. DESIGNER MARTINI FACTORY

Who Goes There "New Georgetowners," NW; (202)

206 Wisconsin Avenue,

1

Cover $10

after 10 p.m.

bottle service

and

Georgetown, Zone 5

Minimum No

Mixed drinks $5-$ 2 Wine $6-$ 1

Food

available

in

drink minimum, $300

Beer $6-$9 Dress

2

1

Officially

practice, dress for success (or for dancers, bling

Slightly pricey nibblies tricked

out as tapas

Tuesday-Thursday, 6 p.m.-2 a.m.; Friday and Saturday, 6 p.m.-3 a.m.

Hours

What

965-5555

on Friday and Saturday

only no-sneakers/no-tanks rule, but

to swing)

interns and su\ts. Apprentice

circuit drinkers

wannabes, fashionistas, and

goes on Although nominally

retro club), this

we meant

it.

Much

of the cocktail

('tronic, hip-hop,

dance club downstairs

a

more bar than

is

when we

nightclub, and

house

say "designer martinis,"

created for Blue Gin by London celeb bar-

menu was

tender Antonia Andrasi, and the $10 specialty "martinis" run to such ingredients as elderflower syrup and rose water, blood oranges and watermelon, lychee nuts and passion fruit (but

all

premium).The wine

liquor brands are

a serious upscaling

is

Setting and atmosphere Downstairs stools and candlelight; upstairs

quettes, projection

DVDs

Vreeland might

the

If

you go

It's

say,

is

a sort of

Zen

disco den, with Asian-looking

a serious-business bar with leather sofas and ban-

is

—

as Diana

black.

best to arrive unfashionably early, not only to escape the cover charge

hour Or use

should walk

doesn't yet measure up, but

(on the building wall next door) and red walls

new

but because the upstairs ing

list

promised.

it

down

to

up (and the bouncer bars the door) well before the witch-

fills

mid-week warmup. Fans of even more elaborate

as

Mie

NYu

at

3125

M

Street,

fantasy decor

where every room has

a different

dreamscape.

BLUES ALLEY NATIONAL-CIRCUIT JAZZ DINNER CLUB

Who Goes There 1

073 Wisconsin Avenue,

Georgetown, Zone

Cover Varies

_____„____™.-™™™™—..™™.--~~-

-

20-60; locals a nd tourists; other jazz pros; neo-jazz fans

NW

(in

the

alley);

(202) 337-4 14

1;

vwm.bluesalley.com

5

with entertainment; $ 3-$50 1

Minimum Two

drinks or

$7 food Mixed

drinks $4-$7.50 Wine $3.50-$5 Beer $3-$5 Dress Jacket over jeans, business attire, musician chic Food available Full menu of semi-Creole food: gumbo, chicken, steak

Hours

Every day, 6 p.m.-midnight.

What goes on When the play.

And

although

big-name jazz performers

many customers grumble about

come

to town, this

is

where they

ticket prices, they pay

anyway—

rents are partly because the acts require high guarantees, partly because Georgetown high,

and partly because so many other jazz clubs have folded.

Setting and atmosphere form

at

one end and the bar

A

fairly

simple lounge, with exposed brick walls, a plat-

at the other,

and smallish dinner tables scattered between.

Clubs and Nightspots

Profiles of

If

you go Get

come and rooms

there early; the

line

375

often goes around the block, and seating

squeeze-'em-together, even with reservations.

that are barely accessible upstairs are

The

old and

one drawback, and the

is

first-

cramped

rest

ventilation can be

another, but the acoustics are very good.

BRICKSKELLER ENCYCLOPEDIC BEER RATHSKELLER

Who Goes There 1

523 22nd Street,

home

2 —45; students; former students; 1

NW; (202)

brewers; beer fanatics

293- 885; www.thebrickskeller.com 1

Dupont Circle/Adams-Morgan, Zone 6

Cover None Minimum None Mixed drinks $3.50-$8 Wine $4.50-$6.50 Beer $5-$8.50 Dress Jackets, jeans, khakis Specials Special urday after 7 p.m.

Food

general, and the kitchen stays

open almost

Hours Monday-Thursday,

:30 a.m.-2 a.m.; Friday,

I

1

p.m.-3 a.m.; Sunday. 6 p.m.-2 a.m.

What

goes on Almost

bottled, later, all

in

drafts upstairs Friday

available The house specialty

half a

is

buffalo;

and Sat-

good pub food

in

as long as the bar.

Metro Dupont

I

1

:30 a.m.-3 a.m.; Saturday, 6

Circle

century ago, Maurice Coja put 50 kinds of beer, mostly

the basement of the Marifex Hotel and opened for business. Twenty years

he had to give up kegs because

room was

so

tight,

and now, with

1

,000 beers from

over the world offered at the same time, including over 100 microbrews, brands and

cans are stuffed into every cornerThe Brickskeller used to offer

rock variety but eventually realized the beer was

live

music of the folk-

sufficient entertainment.

There are

dart boards and a jukebox instead.

Setting and atmosphere

A

rabbit

warren of rooms, with the main bar

in

the front

and scuffed and hard-working tables snaking around between the dart boards. Feel free to strike up a conversation; the Brickskeller

and If

is

unpretentious, college-bar friendly,

lively.

you go Don't be

learn a lot

if

you go

shy; consult the staff.

by-the-fireside beer of 14

Metro

is

nearby.) Skip the

Beer

% alcohol. (The good mixed beer

is

serious business here and you can

and work your way up to Samiclaus, a potent

slowly. Start light

news

cocktails,

or

is

the kitchen

is

beer-tails; they're

open

late,

more

and the

novelty act

than revelation.

BUFFALO BILLIARDS PART BIZ-WHIZ

POOL

Who Go es There 1

330

1

9th Street,

PARTY, PART SINGLES

BAR (OVER 2

I

ONLY)

Junior associates: postgrads; bar pros

NW; (202)

33 -7665 Dupont Circle/Adams-Morgan, 1

Zone

6

Cover None Minimum None for bars or people-watching; to play, $6 per player per hour Mixed drinks $3.25-$6 Wine $3.50-$4 Beer $3.25-$6.50 Dress Mix of officewear and jock chic; as

many

lace-ups as high-rises Specials

Happy hour 4-8 p.m.

weekdays; 1-7 p.m. Saturday; 4-7 p.m. Sunday, with beer specials and wine and drinks for $2.50

Food

course), sandwiches

— but

available Mostly small plates also

some

fairly

— nachos,

buffalo

rail

wings (of

serious entrees such as tuna steak and trout

376

Entertainment and Nightlife

PartTen

Hours Monday-Thursday, 4 p.m.-2 a.m.; Friday, 4 a.m. Metro Dupont Circle

Sunday, 4 p.m.-

What

p.m.-3 a.m.; Saturday,

I

p.m.-3 a.m.;

1

Parties circulate, singles practice their shots, and couriers wait for

goes on

assignments.

Setting and atmosphere This indulgences pool halls

page 367), but parlors, with

it's

two

gadget-happy. And

If

just

one of the busiest and

it's

one of

a half-dozen upscale, all-the-modern-

owners' half-dozen

largest, the flagship of its

rooms (one smoking, one nonsmoking) and

entire

waiting customers to their tables.

ioned speakeasy

is

over the area (see the section "Espresso and Eight-ball" on

all

one

level

It's

woodyish

down from

—

vibrators to alert

Buffalo Bill-iards,get

the street, which gives

it

it?

—but not too

a sort of old-fash-

quality.

you go Don't worry about your pool

skills

particularly, unless you're

hoping to

shark someone; a lot of the patrons are pleasure-seekers, not pros, and they won't be looking over your shoulder.The main thing

someone a shot

first, it's

is

to watch

where

cue or back into the player at the next

else's

table,

you're going: Don't knock

and

if

that player lines up

his/her right of way, so to speak.

CHI'CHA LOUNGE PART

NEIGHBORHOOD

AND CIGAR LOUNGE WITH A FEW

CAFE, PART LATINO-CHIC JAZZ

"exotic" touches

Who Goe s There 1

624

U

Street,

20-30-sonnething regulars; Latino internationals

NW; (202)

234-8400

Dupont

Circle/ Adams-Morgan,

Zone 6

Cover None Minimum One drink or menu item Mixed drinks $4-$9 Wine $4_$6.50 Beer $3-$5 Dress Business, light cocktail and nice casual; see below Specials Ask a server Food available "Modern Andean" fare, mostly tapas-sized snacks

Hours Sunday-Thursday, Metro U Street/Cardoza

What

goes on This

5:30 p.m.-2 a.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5:30 p.m.-3 a.m.

offbeat but endearing hangout, the "hacienda" of local entre-

preneur Mauricio Fraga-Rosenfeld (Ozio, Gazuza,

etc.), offers a

few exotic

indul-

gences to homesick internationals, such as the arguileh (hookah-like water pipes for smoking fruit-cured tobacco) for Middle Easterners, popped giant corn kernels and glasses of the

eponymous

chi-cha, a spicy, fruit and rice alcohol traditional in Latin

America.

Setting and atmosphere Sort of rec-room casbah. "Couch potato" here means a from flamenco guilittle tamal snack on the sofa.The music is frequently live, and ranges tar to Latin jazz to Euro-jazz standards,

Buena Vista If

Social

you go The

and

visiting

Club have been known to drop

dress code

is

pretty

men, no athletic wear, no printed as per the owner's

own

T's,

much no

in

pros such as the Gipsy Kings and after their

shows.

the formal standard nowadays:

tanks, "no attitudes"

— but no

No

hats for

neckties, either,

preferences.

DAVE & BUSTER'S

^l:^>^^%^^^>^ ^:.^:^<J:h^<^ >;„ v'>

ADULT ENTERTAINMENT A LA SPIELBERG— PART HIGH-TECH, PART RETRO-REGRESSIVE

:'

and Nightspots

Profiles of Clubs

Who Goes There gic for Vegas;

377

Late-20s couples bored with disco; traveling salesmen nostal-

some computer geeks and groups

of mixed-sex hangers looking for

post-movie action

White

Flint Mall,

Bethesda; (30

Maryland suburbs, Zone

230-5 151; www.daveandbusters.com

) 1

OB

I

Cover $5 weekends after 10 p.m. Minimum None Mixed drinks $5-$7 Wine $3.50-$5.75 Beer $2.75-$5.25 Dress Upper shopping mall-quality: casual, but no tanks, cutoffs, etc.

A full

available

Specials Half-price

rail

Food

drinks and beer specials at happy hour

range of familiar upscale suburban

from artichoke

fare:

dip and stuffed

jalapenos to pastas, grilled salmon, Sante Fe chicken pizza, and ribs and rib-eyes

Hours Sunday-Wednesday, a.m.; Sunday,

What

I

goes on This

tables, pinball

is

There are

a.m.-l

11:30

Flint

a carnival of the business animals: a half-dozen pocket billiard shuffle-

pods, interlinked for games and sports simula-

full-size virtual-reality

also casino games, with fully trained blackjack dealers and tables

the poker chips are "on loan" only.

by token

a.m.-midnight; Thursday-Saturday,

Metro White

and video games, a couple of simulated "19th hole" golf games,

board, and four tion.

11:30

1:30 a.m.-midnight.

in fact,

except the

No

actual gambling

virtual-reality pods.

On

is

allowed. Everything

Fridays and Saturdays,

is

it's

—but

played

murder

mystery dinner theater

Setting and atmosphere This

is

unabashedly a bar as well as a playroom, with two

"midway"

sideline bars: the double-sided, 40-foot bar that partners the

interactive video

to mention the private

"showroom" with

audio-visual equipment, which If

you go

got

it

This

is

Dave &

down smooth.

fairly strict rules

(a stretch

of

and carny attractions); and the elevated, square "Viewpoint" bar (not

is

own

its

status

CEO

about drinking and dressing, and even

limited (even cigarettes only

where

party

room

of D.C.).

complex around the country, and they've

Buster's ninth such

Besides offering nearly every sort of game,

year-olds being with an adult. Even better

and even

stage, bar, dining tables,

bound to become the

in this

it

has polished service,

stricter rules

about under-21-

cigar-crazed era, smoking

is

extremely

allowed).

DREAM FOUR-STORY,

MANHATTAN -STYLE SUPER-LOUNGE

Who Goes There

Friends,

Seinfelds looking for love 1

350 Okie

Cover

Street,

Sex

in all

in

the City sophisticates,

NE; (202) 636-9030

$10; sometimes free with promotion

Northeast,

I

I

p.m., give

and even

or take an hour)

Food

Zone 8

Mixed drinks $5-$8 Wine $5-$7 Beer

$3-$5 Dress Trendy; they hosted an Armani (before

Damon Wayans

the lounge places

fashion

show Specials Free cover

available Entrees

like

early

crabcakes and jerk

chicken from Republic Gardens chef Lois Spencer

Hours Thursday 9

What

p.m.-3 a.m.; Friday and Saturday 9

goes on Thursdays

is

p.m.^

usually international night,

a.m.

and the crowd

and elegant. Weekends are a mix of soul/R&B, hip-hop, and even a yuppie (Fridays) and buppie (Saturdays)

level rises

and

falls.

little

is

very mixed

trance, as the

378

Entertainment and Nightlife

PartTen

Setting and atmosphere This and a luxury

ambiance

lighting.

wall bars and a

land:

a post-millennial Studio 54

somewhere between

is

paneling, leather lounge chairs, plush carpeting and

magohany

Besides the four dance

halls,

room, neary wall-to-

there's a billiard

deck for cooling down.The fourth floor

is

even available for private par-

mere $5,000.

ties for a

If you go

Seriously dress to impress here; even P-Diddy

door

at this

on

liner

No

wear This

athletic

is

would have to shed the jeans

a "revitalizing" neighborhood, but there

parking or shuttle service from nearby secured

is

valet

lots.

DUBLINER CLASSIC IRISH PUB

Who Goes There

Hill

workers, both upwardly mobile

(senators and lobbyists)

520 North Capitol

(staffers)

and established

______„

NW; (202)

Street,

737-3773

Capitol

Hill,

Zone 2

Cover None Minimum None Mixed drinks $3.25-$6; Dubliner coffee is an coffee with Bailey's added. Wine $4-$5.50 Beer $3-$4 Dress No cutoffs or tops Specials Reduced light-fare prices, for lunch and dinner

Food

available

I

Irish

Hours Monday-Thursday, 7 a.m.-2 a.m.; 7:30 a.m.-2 a.m. Metro Union Station

What leader

goes on This

—

centrally

is

not the oldest

p.m.-

I

pub

from stew to hot sandwiches

Irish

bar

in

town, but

it

providing the

has

Fittingly,

Now

Setting and atmosphere

part of the pricey and

Phoenix Hotel complex, the Dubliner carved walnut bar by the surviving

in

is

filled

If

the back room.The front bar

members

where the tweeds

you go Be

of the Dubliner's

filled

week

with

parties.

hunt-country gracious

is

louder and

Irish football in

often populated

livelier,

and soccer teams; the snug

is

the finest tradition; and the par-

gather.

sure to have at least one Guinness on draft:The Dubliner pours an esti-

mated quarter-million (the high ceilings carry political

Times next

with antiques, such as the 1810 hand-

a discreet heads-together, take-no-names hideaway is

Irish

St. Patrick's

clan

ground for

the Dubliner also has one of the most colorful histories,

romantic intrigue, boom-and-bust bank troubles, and riotous

lor

become the

training

founders of a half-dozen other bars, including the semi-sibling-rival

door

Monday-Friday

a.m.; daily specials

Friday and Saturday, 7 a.m.-3 a.m.; Sunday,

pol-connected, and

located,

1

classics,

Irish

tank

pints a year

Drop by the

smoke away) and the

Irish

Times next door for a breather

Finnegans

Wake

conversation, and interns' rave downstairs.Then

call

crazy quilt of literary and a cab. Please.

l^ALF MOON BAR-B-Q RETRO-ROADHOUSE WITH ROOTS ROCK/ROCKABILLY/BLUES BAR

Who

Goes There Beer buddies,Top 40 radio

borhood

IN

THE BACK

fugitives, off-duty musicians, neigh-

families

8235 Georgia Avenue; (30

Cover None-$l5 Wine

)

585- 290 1

Maryland suburbs. Zone

I

OC

1

$3.50

Beer $4-$5 Dress Anything

goes, from post-softball

and Nightspots

Profiles of Clubs

work

to fter

shirtsleeves to punk-country

pulled-pork sandwiches,

Hours

smoked

swank Food available

Ribs,

379

hot wings,

chicken, hamburgers

Tuesday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-

a.m.; Friday

1

and Saturday, 5 p.m.-3 a.m.

Metro

Sil-

ver Spring

What goes on

Top

and some national

local, regional cult

rockabilly, roots, blues, cajun

and occasionally zydeco acts

New

Setting and atmosphere Designed to evoke a bar/diner has a corrugated

tin bar,

ette-style booths; the back music

Orleans roadhouse, the front

hot-sauce-red pressed-tin

room

is

and old luncheon-

ceiling,

basement rec-room

basic.

not truly finger pickin' territory The food

good

If

you go

if

not great, and pretty cheap; the bar stocks 50 or so brands of beer and three or four

on

Relax, this

and the music

tap,

original Twist

is

is

& Shout

finger-lickin',

prime

—

as

if

is

one would hope from owner Marc Gretschel, whose of the

same name.

Hard Rock memorabilia

collectors;

Mary Chapin Carpenter song

club inspired the

HARD ROCK CAFE SOUVENIR SHOP DISGUISED AS BARBECUE BAR

Who Goes There 999 E

1

2-55; tourists and

locals;

experts

air-guitar

Street,

______^__

NW; (202)

The National

737-7625

Mall,

Cover None Minimum None Mixed drinks $7-$ Dress To be

Zone

Wine

8

I

$6-$

1

Beer $3-$7

5

seen: pony-print leather, denim, sports or rock-and-roll tour jackets, busi-

ness attire, creative black ingly

1

tie,

Bermuda shorts (on

tourists)

Food

available Surpris-

good

Hours

Sunday-Thursday,

I

I

a.m.-

1

I

p.m.; Friday

and Saturday,

I

I

a.m.-

1

a.m.

Metro

Metro Center

What goes on

Despite the name,

this

is

not actually a club

100 Hard Rocks around the world, each of which takes is

its

Rock

the "Embassy" and sometimes the "Smithsonian of

rotating the nearly 7,000 pieces of music history

shop, with

packed

—

a

its

signature T-shirts,

doorman

is

as

the

in

busy as the

— nor does

HRC

bar,

it

rock.

nickname from the 'n'

One

of

site, this

Roll," taking its

turn

collection. The souvenir

which

is

often stand-in-line

passes judgment on the hopeful.

Setting and atmosphere This

is

ersatz nostalgia for the second Rolling Stone gen-

eration, with a bar designed like a piano, half of a pink Cadillac (sort of a franchise sig-

nature) hanging from the ceiling, and a lot of fed suits from nearby buildings trying to

look cool. Hard Rock also makes a point of being Lollapalooza-era PC, supporting the

Walden Project and nuclear

freezes and hosting radio-chic benefits and post-concert

VIP receptions, usually without the star If

you go

Pick up the guidebook, formally

known

as the

"Hard Rock Cafe

Self-

Motivating Non-Nuclear-Powered Memorabilia Tour of the World's Foremost Rock

Look

for such treasures as

Bo

'n'

Diddley's

Roll

Museum" and

first

jerry-rigged electric guitar, Michael Jackson's glittering kneepad.and a stained-glass

start circling the balcony.

triptych featuring Elvis, Jerry Lee Lewis, and Little Richard.

380

Entertainment and Nightlife

PartTen

THE IMPROV NATIONAL-CIRCUIT COMEDY CLUB

Who Goes There

Visiting business types; 30ish suburbanites;

25-45 midlevel

managers I

NW; (202)

140 Connecticut Avenue,

Downtown, Zone

296-7008; www.dcimprov.com

3

Cover $ 0-$25, according to performer Minimum Two items Mixed drinks $4-$8 $5-$7 Beer $3-$4 Dress T-shirts with jacl<ets, suits, casual yup attire Specials Tuesday, free admission to anyone wearing an improv T-shirt ($12 in the lobby) Food 1

Wine

available

as available before the 8:30 p.m. show, but light fare

menu described

Full

whenever; standard

available

one-size-fits-all

menu

with chicken cordon bleu, prime

rib,

catch of the day, Caesar salad, etc.

Tuesday-Thursday, 7-1

Hours at

I

p.m.; Friday

8 p.m.and 10:30 p.m. (Friday and Saturday).

What

goes on

Standard Improv franchise

and Saturday, 6:30 p.m.-l2:30 a.m. Shows

Metro fare:

Farragut North or

A

short opening

Dupont

act,

Circle

often local; a

semi-established feature act; and a headliner from the national club/cable showcase cuit.

However,

like

many comedy

extended bookings of more Jack

Gallagher, who perform

clubs, the

theatrical

Improv

increasingly

cir-

dependent on

comics such as Rob 'The Caveman" Becker or

alone for 90 minutes or

Setting and atmosphere Again,

is

this

so.

goes with the franchise

—

a "brick wall" stage

sentimentally recalling the original no-frills Improvisation, and the black-and-white

checkerboard floor and trim that

is

practically a logo design.

TV

screens hang overhead

for those with obscured views, but they're not big enough to be terribly useful.The wait staff If

wear tux-material Bermuda

you go Don't bother to

order of

arrival isn't apt to

shorts.

come

early, at least

on weeknights, when being seated

in

be a problem. Since latecomers are usually seated amongst

the diners, you have no real reason to seek early reservations. Besides, nibbling through

the appetizers sitting

list is

a

more

satisfying

experience than

sitting

down

through the show. The Improv, though below sidewalk

access via the elevator

in

to dinner and then

level,

has wheelchair

the building lobby

mm,,mm «:.;«».— «»:# myswmmimm

itiilliKliillilil

IOTA NEIGHBORHOOD TAVERN JOINT WITH SMART CONVERSATION AND ROCK ^

Who Goes There

LIVE

NEW-POP ROOTS

Messengers; students; thirtysomething T-shirts; microbrew-

savvy beer buddies; other musicians

2832 Wilson Boulevard, Arlington; (703) 522-8340

Cover

rail

1

1

some shows free Minimum None Mixed drinks $3-$ 10 Beer $3-$8.50 Dress Jeans, with or without bolo; hog leathers; baggy

wear; and frayed button-down collars Specials Happy hour 5-8 p.m., $1

and draft prices

Food

off

available Freestyle, eclectic pub food but far better than

most: Asian spicy beef, tuna steak, black pepper-doused french

Hours

Zone

Wine

varies,

$3.50-$4.50 athletic

Virginia suburbs,

Every day, 5 p.m.-2 a.m.

fries.

Metro Clarendon or Courthouse

—

A Profiles of

Clubs and Nightspots

1

38

What goes on On a regular basis, this has the best lineup of acoustic rock, neo-roots. soft psychedelic,

who

and eclectic melodic rock

town, and

in

it's

the quality of the people

run the shows, both before and behind the scenes, that makes

When

dorn holds the open mike on Wednesdays. likely

to find

hometown

favorite Kevin

Setting and atmosphere tionally

In a

time

town,

he's in

Johnson hosting songwriters'

when

a lot of

mismatched rec-room random look,

where you're

is

nights.

Washington bars have an

decor

lota's

Steve Hage-

so.

it

this

is

murals, geometric eyecatchers chiseled into the exposed brick walls, and

show the age erwise). The

of the neighborhood (especially nice, since there's so

room used

to be only half this

size,

If

you go

This

is

good

a

beams that

of

little

but giving the performers

elbow room has not made either the musicians or

inten-

unusual but intelligent

it

oth-

left

some

extra

their audiences self-conscious.

place to strike up a conversation at the bar before the music

gets loud: you run into crossword puzzle freaks, novelists, doctoral candidates, musicians, roadies,

and ponytails of the friendly

sort.

It's

the sort of bar that makes hanging

out a pleasure.

JAMMIN'JAVA ALL-AGES ALT-ROCK COFFEHOUSETO THE MAX, WITH ROCK, A LITTLE PUNK, COUNTRY, FOLK, AND BLUES, AND EVEN THE

ODD JUG BAND

Who Goes There musical

Unreconstructed hard-folk boomers, fannily hop efuls, eclectic-minded 20-somethings

227 Maple Avenue, East Vienna; (703) 255- 566;

Virginia suburbs.

1

Cover $5-$20,

Wine $7 Beer mom and Land's End

according to performer

mostly jean therapy but also

softball

Wraps and sandwiches,"gourmet

Hours Monday-Thursday,

chilis"

7 a.m.-

1

I

and

Zone

$4-$5 Dress Easy men's jeans

Food

1

1

listening,

available

espresso drinks

salads, plus

p.m.; Friday,

diners, mid-life

7 a.m. -midnight; Saturday, 8 a.m.-

midnight; Sunday, 9 a.m.- 10 p.m.

What goes on Two or three sets of music per night, mostly local regional and college-circuit acts and

open-mike Mondays

Setting and atmosphere This

one of the

fortably snug L-shaped

and the music

room

room

is

area's

(also a recording studio)

ers, If

the Brindleys,

who

you go There

is

are recording their

somewhat

limited seating

often SRO, but nobody's a stranger here;

be better to come

early, eat

own

it's

(maybe grab a

LULU'S NIGHT CLUB

some good

most promising venues,

with bar and food counter

in

a

com-

front with a handful of tables

around the

smoking, family-friendly version of a music club, and

but with

side. This

in fact it's

is

an all-ages, no-

owned by three

broth-

alt-country album there. in

the music room, and the crowd

a nice mix. Since

table),

you can eat

all

day,

it

and save the espresso for the show.

«i**«^

MARDI GRAS SINGLES BAR/SEMI-OLDIES DISCO

Who Goes There

25-45;

office fugitives; last-chance bachelorettes;

lege jocks

1217 22nd Street,

NW; (202)

86 -5858; www.lulusclub.com 1

Dupont Circle/Adams-Morgan, Zone 6

is

may

former

col-

382

Entertainment and Nightlife

PartTen

Cover $5-$

punk Specials Happy hour boys, bar fare,

sometimes crawfish and

Metro Dupont

Circle

What goes on

This

beginning at 4 p.m., begin to

fry, it

is

available

cow-

Gumbo, etouffee,po'

half-shells

a pack-'em-in lunch spot, catering to nearby office workers, but

the Dixieland band "promenades" and the appetizer baskets

when

becomes

a

permanent

party. In the three DJ areas, the

boomers who used to patronize the bar

40, for the early

was

Food

daily

$4-$8

Sunday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-l:30 a.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m.-2:30 a.m.

Hours

it

change

specials

drinl<s

prep, after-office hours, Cajun

$4-$7 Beer $4-$6 Dress Georgetown

^jne

Top

Minimum None Mixed

according to performer

5,

1

music ranges from

when

nearly 20 years ago

Deja Vu, to techno and hip-hop. Actually, after the complex's recent

first called

removation, the lounge became DejaVu again, and dancing here really

A

Setting and atmosphere

re-created corner of

Bourbon

is

deja vu.

Street, with the restau-

rant area authentically accessorized with wrought-iron balcony and the glittering carnival

queen gown that the owner's mother.

procession. There's a garden-style dining

room

Lulu,

wore

the

in

1962 Mardi Gras

reminiscent of Brennan's conservatory,

and the multiple bar and informal dance rooms form a warren of exposed brick

walls,

bare-board floors, and mahogany bars. If

you go Try

arriving during

happy hour to avoid the cover and enjoy the

specials.

MCCXXUl GEN-X/GEN-TECHS VERSION OF CONSPICUOUS CHAMPAGNE CHIC

Who Goes There tious

comm ittee

Embassy/buppie/Euro

staff,

NW; (202)

223 Connecticut Avenue,

1

slicks;

white

collar/-tie associates;

ambi-

trust fund babies

Dupont

822- 800 1

Circle/ Adams-Morgan,

Zone 6 Cover None drinks $6-$

about $ 5 after 10 p.m. on event nights

early, 1

1

Wine $6-$8 Beer $4-$6 Dress One

around, and old-fashioned

Food

doormen

Hours

Tuesday-Thursday, 4 p.m.-2 a.m.;

Metro

Farragut

What goes on Once the cocktail swing-your-VIP, with a mix of

Setting and atmosphere 1

223, the street address)

Mixed

so stalk the stalk as you talk the talk

rant downstairs,

is

you go

is

4 p.m.-2

Now

a.m.; Saturday,

6 p.m.-3 a.m.;

Circle

hour conventions are observed, the club goes showand even Top 40 music.

a three-story complex,

MCCXXXIII

industrial chic for the titanium-card

champagne lounge

Sleek and breezy

Friday,

North or Dupont

disco, house, reggae

floor.

(cute-speak for

crowd: caviar bar restau-

upstairs, catwalk to glide over,

dance club-within-a-club on the third

If

it,

drink

I

available Happy hour S-9 p.m.Tuesdays,Thursdays and Fridays

Sunday, 8 p.m.-2 a.m.

ily

to enforce

Minimum

of the strictest dress codes

and

now

You can even reserve your

boudoir-style

favorite couch.

the atmosphere, and that goes for the lit-within fabric dividers.

Definitely hit the

Remember that this

is

ATM; you'll need

lavish tip

cash as well as your credit cards.

only one of a half-dozen hotspots at this intersection, including the

subterranean Red and Andalu;see the description of the 18th Street nighdife intersection in

the introduction to this chapter

Profiles of

Clubs and Nightspots

383

W"

NATION THREE-RING CIRCUS OF THEATRICALLY PRODUCED DANCE-TILL- YOU-TRANCE MUSIC

Who Goes There

1

8-35; electronica fans; club

1015 Half Street. SE; (202) 554- 500

kids;

Southeast.

1

curious revelers

Zone 9

Cover $10-$ 5. according to perfornner Minimum None Mixed drinks $4-$8 $4-$6 Beer $3-$5 Dress Varies widely, from jeans and tees to outlandish club1

Wine

wear Food available

Hours

What

Every

day,

No

7 p.m.-2 a.m.

(officially)

goes on Depending on the

and even Goth events, with guest

night,

up to 2.000 fans of

rave, synthpop, house, gay

from international-circuit DJs and the odd drag

stints

queen.

Setting and atmosphere Counting the outdoor deck, three separate dance clubs operate with professional ing If

you go Dress

cially

lighting,

sound and mix equipment, with bars and lounge

seat-

about.

all

to your groove, which can

on late-Saturday "Velvet"

nights,

when

mean anything from

black leather

the gay dancers congregate

—to

—

espe-

black Boss

to black chiffon.

9:30 NATIONAL-NAME

LIVE ALTERNATIVE, PROGRESSIVE.

Who Goes There ical

types; couriers;

815V

8-35;

new

nnusic hopefuls; postgrads;

polit-

Wine

Downtown, Zone 7

393-0930; www.930.com

with entertainment, from $5 to as

drinks $4-$5.25

young media and

cowpunks

NW; (202)

Street,

Cover Varies

1

SEMI-PUNK ROCK MUSIC CLUB

$4.50-$6.50

much

as

$40

Minimum None Mixed

Beer $3.25-$4.25 Dress Grunge,

imitation

grunge, rhinestone cowboy, leftover businesswear, knife-customized athletic wear, black jersey, black

spandex, black denim, and black baggies

Food

available Tex-Mex and bar-

becue fare

Hours

Sunday-Thursday. 7:30 p.m.-until close; Friday and Saturday, 9 p.m.-until close

Metro U

Street

What goes on moved

"9:30"

is

the name,

into an old gospel music hall

used to be the address (before the former club

it

and radio broadcast

site),

showtime, but thanks to workday hangovers, mid-week music

most important

arguably Washington's cert

get

work

might see

from new bands

eclectic

is

booking of breaking

a real prize. In

A

slightly

—but

"quiet

room" and

acts,

any given month, you

trendy mix of leftover cornices, pilasters, virtue-

of-necessity exposed steel trusses, and dropped lighting lines.

is

major con-

BoDeans, or funk patriarch George Clinton.

Setting and atmosphere

with great sight

used to be the

as their reputations rise. Promising local bands fight to

as first acts here; a headliner contract Liz Phair, the

it

starts at 8:30.This

club, the loss-leader indulgence of

promoter Seth Hurwitz. who. with daring and

fosters loyalty

and

now

The

still

theatrically dark,

balconies are fine, and there are several bars, including one

a nostalgic, grungier

one downstairs.

384 If

you go

one

Entertainment and Nightlife

PartTen

Find out who's playing:The

crowd that pays up

Crenshaw or Happy Mondays

for Marshall

for IceT isn't the

—or They Might Be

same

as the

Giants, or even

Anthrax. Never accuse Hurwitz of lacking a sense of humor.

OZIO TREND -HAPPY, NEOCON MARTINI AND CIGAR LOUNGE

Who Goes There

Ash-kissing Standard & Poor's and Rat Pack-chic wannabes, but with only standard pickup lines and a limited grasp of the inside-the-Beltway gossip they dish; nouveau riche-makers 1

8

1

3

M

Street,

NW; (202)

822-6000; wv^^.oziodc.com

European-cut jackets and Nicole Miller

menswear or Eurotrash

tapas" that are

more

ties (especially

skinny-fits for

the ones with martini glasses);

women Food

available "American

Middle Eastern crostini, but interesting; a short

like

3

Wine $5-$9 Beer $5 Dress

Cover None Minimum None Mixed drinks $6-$ 10 Imitation

Downtown, Zone

menu

of

entrees, primarily steaks and seafood

Hours Monday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-2 a.m.; Metro Farragut North or Dupont Circle

What

goes on Posturing

doing nothing"

—

hanging,

in

Friday, 5

for fun and profit. The

p.m.-3 a.m.; Saturday, 6 p.m.-3 a.m.

name

is

other words.The action starts

gradually shifts into Euro-Latin and,

on the highest

for "the act of

Italian slang in

a lounge-lizard style, and

levels (that's

the third and fourth

floors to you), hip-hop, house, and trance.

Setting and atmosphere This

is

actually

what a

cigar-and-martini lounge ought to

look like:Tuscan red sponged walls; a sleek, glass-walled, walk-in cigar

row

cocktail tables for noshing

and Deco-ish

light fixtures

and ashing, set

off

designed to suggest the Paris Metro.

It is,

in fact,

from the sidewalk, which makes even more atmospheric sense. Ozio night jazz If

on Monday-Wednesday

you go

nights,

is

downstairs

trying out late-

even more Parisian electric guitar

Bring your gold and platinum cards: the martinis are long and strong and

cost between $8 and $10, while the cigars run $8 to $50.There ing

vault; lots of low,

with recycled wrought-iron fencing

room. And carry a

lot of business cards, too: This

is

is

one smoke-free

din-

turning into a network center

for up-and-coming lobbyists and credit card sharks.

PLATINUM DISCO BALL GLITTERING

Who Goes There 915 F

Street,

IN

IN

THE BASEMENT

Younger internationals

NW; (202)

Downtown, Zone

THE MAIN HALL. LATIN SHARKSKIN GLITTERING

393-3555; wvvw.platinumclubdc.com

3

Cover Free early, then $5-$ 5 Minimum None Mixed drinks $4-$8 Wine $5-$7 Beer $3-$5 Dress Trendy Specials Vary Food available Sushi (what else?) 1

Metro Metro Center

Hours

Thursday-Sunday. 10 p.m.-3 a.m.

What

goes on Despite changing names

a couple of times (Fifth

may have survived to become the grande dame

ally

the entry-level club for would-be sophisticates. Thursday

you

a discount), Friday

is

Column, the Bank),

of D.C. neo-discos, and

this

is

is

tradition-

College Night (ID gets

old-fashioned Ladies' Night (Cinderellas get

in

free

till

mid-

Profiles of Clubs

Saturday

night).

is

and Nightspots

385

and Sunday are heavier, with hip-hop

just a trancy free-for-all. Tuesday

the dominant beat.

A

Setting and atmosphere

fomer bank. Platinum

and marble flooring, and

a lavish chandelier

has the prosperous look, with

still

sound system to match. Four floors

a

counting the VIP lounge con fireplace, and balconies to be scene

candy and cigars to both If

you go Dress code

most the better

Home

Nightclub

at 91

F Street,

I

sell

clubs these days, so college studio

the faux-cool for the fashion chic. Get

hour to save money and shoetime outside.

club.net), a

Concessions

in.

and guys.

here, as with

dump

or congressional aide, ing

girls

NW

the

If

line's

too

long,

in

before the witch-

check out the nearby

(phone (202) 638-4663; v^ww.homenight

new and very promising weekends-only annex from

the same management.

TAKOMA STATION TAVERN CLASSICALLY MINDED BUPPIE JAZZ BAR

Who GoesThere

25-55; mixed media types; yuppies; buppies; other musicians

6914 Fourth

NW; (202)

Street,

829- 999; www.takomastation.com 1

Upper Northwest, Zone 7

Cover $5 Minimum None Mixed drinks strong enough to

Dress

Suits

$4-$8.50; their Long Island Iced Tea

make you confuse your geography.

and nice dresses; jeans, but with a

jacket;

Wine

no

cutoffs;

no tennis shoes Spe-

Happy hour 4-8 p.m. weekdays Food available Southern-style

cials

is

$3.50-$7 Beer $3-$5

fried chicken,

greens, meatloaf, ribs

Hours

Metro

Sunday-Thursday, 4 p.m.-l:30 a.m.; Friday and Saturday, 4 p.m.-2 a.m.

Takoma

What

goes on Cocktail conversation here

profile area pros

—

jam

begin, the attention level

taciturn

is

Bobby Boyd,

this

is

pretty good.

A true

once the performers

neighborhood

—

who drop

joint

owned

highin

to

by the

bar was one of the nightspots that helped revitalize the

untrendy side of Takoma Park without changing

Setting and atmosphere This fully,

loud, but

and often national-rank musicians passing through

building, a

with exposed brick, see-through

room

its

character

former boxing gym, wears

dividers that

its

make the bar an

age grace-

integral part

of the stage area, and just a handful of hanging plants. if

you go Don't be

demonstrative, especially

if

you arrive

nightside schedule and like to start mellow. Don't in

after production hours.

Sunday

is

change-up

gawk

night,

early; the

at the

with

Boyds

media types

live

live

on the

who come

reggae and a

slightly

younger crowd.

YACHT CLUB OF BETHESDA SECOND-CHANCE

SINGLES BAR

Who GoesThere

AND RETRO DISCO

28-55; platinum cards and platinum blondes; the monied and

the alimonied

8111 WoodmontAvenue,Bethesda;(30l) 654-2396;

www.yachtclubofbethesda.com

Maryland suburbs. Zone lOA

386

Entertainment and Nightlife

PartTen

Cover $5 Wednesday-Thursday, Friday happy hour 7-9 p.m. open bar $12, then $14; Saturday, $14 Minimum None Mixed drinks $4-$4.50 Wine $3-$4 Beer $3-$4.50 Dress Dress as class advertisement; big earrings, gold chains for women, too; jacket

—

and

men Food available

required for

tie

Entrees, appetizers, and sandwiches

Hours Wednesday-Thursday, 7 p.m.- a.m.; Friday, 7 p.m.-2 a.m.; Metro Medical Center or Bethesda 1

Saturday, 8 p.m.-2

a.m. Closed Sunday-Tuesday.

What

goes on Upper, upper-middle, and upper-ambitious

sion denial eye their conjugal options; close to 100 marital

here. This astonishingly successful mating pen, with list

to match,

is

Tommy

A

Setting and atmosphere

Matchmaker

— but one

Curtis's use of the title

metaphors for preferred rather than actual

maybe If

it

suggests the

you go

amount

Either line up before 8 p.m. or wait

Coco

waiting line

many who

in

little

Bethesda, which

do, shouldn't), get

is

till

about

down

company

in

"commodore," are

I

I

Or

the hatch.

.This

the sort of place that

is

Chanel; you can be rich and thin enough, but

or too black.The Yacht Club boasts the only black-tie

sort of a

in line

self-fulfilling

prophecy.

at the pool table.

Or

If

you don't dance (and

just plunk yourself

the bar with a drink; the soft-hearted Curtis, an inveterate yenta, for your

style that in

that belongs to a

wearing Polo sportswear

lifestyle, like

of booze that nightly goes

confuses Gloria Vanderbilt with

your dress can never be too

and burgundy deco

classy woodgrain, gray,

The name, and

prime.

his

the

suite of a luxury cruiser

does suggest the master

sportsman past

golden-oldies playlist and guest

its

the brainchild of longtime singles-bar spinmaster, flatter-patter DJ,and

trend-shift sacrificial lamb

fact

ring candidates in reces-

matches have been made

down

at

have a candidate

will

a flash.

ZANZIBAR WORLD-BEAT DISCO

Who Goes There

23^5; trade

law,

embassy, and import reps; buppies, West

African entrepreneurs, and Latin chic-sters

700 Water

Cover $5

Street,

before

SW; (202) 554-9 00

1

1

p.m.

p.m. on Friday, $ 5 after

I

1

I

I

on Wednesday and Thursday, $ I

p.m.;

$

1

Minimum None Mixed

p.m.

The National

before

I

I

p.m.

Mall, after

1

on Saturday

drinks $4-$8.50

Wine

Dress Dress to impress or advertise success: European flounces, aerobic

wear

Zone

disguised as cocktail spandex;

no

1

I

p.m.;

$

before

1

(ladies free),

I

I

$ 5 after 1

$4.75-$6 Beer $4-$5 lapels,

dresses with hip

T-shirts, jeans,

or sneakers

allowed Specials Free admission and hors d'oeuvres at happy hour, 5-7 p.m. Fridays

and 9-10 p.m. Saturdays

Hours Wednesday, day, 9

Food

5 p.m.-

1

available

a.m.;Thursday, 5 p.m.-2 a.m.; Friday, 5 p.m.-3 a.m.; Satur-

p.m.-4 a.m.; closed Sunday-Tuesday.

What

goes on

Salsa, soca,

West African menu

Full

Metro Maine Avenue

soukous, samba

salsa, reggae,

mostly on the turntable, but occasionaly with sively stylish singles bar,

live

and even go-go take turns

bands. This

is

an expansively, expen-

with potentially valuable networking as the undertone.

serious action starts after midnight; the visiting amateurs tend to turn pumpkin at

The 1

2.

Profiles of Clubs Setting and atmosphere

A sometime

and Nightspots

bureaucrats' business lunchspot,this

underground wood-and-brick conference room-setup divided into areas, with a If

mahogany bar

you go Be prepared

at the bar unless

facing both

to dance

if

and

you want to meet people; there's very

window.

little

chatter

you prove yourself (or are extremely well dressed). The downstairs

move up and down both

wave of unattached partners. Note: To prices,

a long,

larger and smaller

a lighted patio fountain outside the

mostly restaurant, with great water views; the upstairs with the flow,

is

387

is

nearly

all

dance

floor.

is

To go

an unspoken

sides of the

room; there

simplify

the tips are built into the drink

life,

which makes them something more of a bargain.

Is

tidal

Part Eleven

Exercise

and Recreation

Working Out Most of

the folks

Some

tinely.

bike,

on our

some

Unofficial

some

run,

Guide research team work out rou-

Hft weights or

do

Washington during the hot summer months,

iting

aerobics.

it

figure out that exercising in the city's fearsome heat

some problems. The best months for outdoor

While

vis-

didn't take long to

and humidity pre-

sented

exercise are

March through June and

October through December. In July and August, you must get up very early to beat the heat. January

although snow usually unless

you

get

up very

isn't

early,

and February can bring quite cold weather,

During the summer months, we recommend working out indoors. a problem.

Walking With

its

wide-open spaces, Washington

is

made

for walking. Security

is

very good along the Mall and Potomac Park, making for a safe walking

environment

A

Parks als

at all

long walk offers

hours of the day and night.

down

the Mall

and through East and West Potomac

grand views of the Lincoln, Jefferson, and

and the Washington Monument,

Potomac

as well as the

FDR Memori-

Tidal Basin and the

River. For a really long excursion, cross Arlington

Memorial

Bridge and explore Arlington National Cemetery. You can also walk

north along the river past the

Kennedy Center and

the

Thompson Boat

Center and into Georgetown.

North of the Mall, downtown is not particularly interesting or aesthetand not too safe above New York Avenue. North of the White House, Connecticut Avenue offers unlimited window-shopping at the city's ritziest shops. South of the Capitol, Fort McNair is open to ically pleasing

—

anyone who would

like to stroll

through well-kept grounds on a narrow

peninsula where the Washington Channel and the Anacostia River meet

389

390

Exercise and Recreation

Part Eleven

Metro

the Potomac: take the

to the Waterfront Station

and walk

straight

down Fourth Street, SW, to Fort McNair (not recommended after dark). Afterwards, you can stroll the waterfront marinas on Maine Avenue. Although you must drive to get there, the U.S. National Arboretum in Northeast trails

offers walkers three-and-a-half miles

Washington

winding through 444

May,

fields

of

acres

trees

and

flowering dogwood, and mountain

of azaleas,

of easy

flowers. In late April

and

laurel are in

bloom.

The Mall and

its

surrounding areas are

deceiving there, making

fairly flat,

and distances can be

easy to overextend yourself Carry

it

to buy refreshments en route and for cab or Metro

money

your hotel in case you

get too tired to

fare

enough back to

walk back.

Running Washington's wealth of parks offers plenty of options to both casual and serious joggers. Most of the better running areas are relatively flat but visually stunning.

Many

of the best paths are centrally located, close to

major in-town hotels and other late

afternoon run easy to

fit

recommend jogging

don't

attractions,

making

either a

morning or

into a busy business or touring schedule.

at night; see the section

on "How

to

We

Avoid

Crime and Keep Safe in Public Places" in Part Four, page 110. The heart of Washington and its most popular running location is the Mall, featuring packed-dirt paths. Nearby, the Ellipse (behind the White House) and the Tidal Basin Tree-shaded

good

starting point

Creek Parkway

in

is

is

a better bet during hot weather.

A

Rock Pierce Mill and

crosses over

Northwest Washington. Run north to

In Georgetown, the

what

paved pathways to run on.

where Connecticut Avenue

is

your steps for a four-mile

retrace

offers

offer

Rock Creek Park

jog.

Chesapeake

&

Ohio (C&O) Canal Towpath

probably the best running surface in town. Runners,

and hikers love this wide, dirt-pack trail that runs for miles between the scenic Potomac River and the canal. The river views are spectacular in places; the placid canal reflects the greenery alongside; and cyclists,

and locks appear at regular intervals. Mileposts along you informed of your distance. Farther up, in Marythe enormous cataract at Great Falls attracts hikers and picnickers.

historic lockhouses

the towpath keep land,

Another

river route

is

the

Mount Vernon

and goes downriver on the Virginia miles to

Run

Trail, a

paved path that

near the Lincoln Memorial, crosses Arlington Memorial Bridge,

starts

to

miles.

Mount Vernon.

side of the

Potomac

for

about 16

Unless you're a marathoner, cut this run in

half:

Ronald Reagan National Airport and back, about seven and a half In blustery fall, winter, and early spring weather, runners and

cyclists will find that the better-protected

C&O

Canal Towpath

offers

C&O

Canal

Towpath Trail (

Georgetown Center to Swains Lock

)

KILOMETERS

391

Mount Vernon Trail N

KILOMETERS

392

Working Out

393

more protection from strong winds coming off the river. Closer to downtown and the Mall, West Potomac Park is the best route in the spring, when the Japanese cherry trees are blooming around the Tidal Basin. Start near the Jefferson

loop

at the

the Jefferson

morning

Memorial, head down Ohio Drive, and make the

end of the park;

if

you've got any energy

Memorial and loop around the Tidal

continue past

left,

Go

Basin.

early in the

to beat the crowds.

Getting to the Track If your hotel

is

downtown, the Mall

is

the closest option you have with-

out driving or taking the Metro. If you're staying along the Connecticut

Avenue your

corridor,

best bets. In

Rock Creek Park and

C&O

Canal Towpath

are

Mount Vernon Trail and

the

the

Alexandria or Rosslyn, the

Washington and Old Dominion Regional Park are popular paved running paths. In suburban Maryland, Greenbelt Park offers both paved

and unpaved

surfaces to run on, as well as a one-mile fitness

ted with 20 exercise stations. Ask your

ning

trails

close to

where you're

hotel's concierge for a

trail outfit-

map

of run-

staying.

Swimming Local waters are polluted to one degree or another, so stick to your hotel

swimming

pool.

The

closest saltwater

beach

on

is

US

Sandy Point State Park 50 on the shores of the

Maryland, about an Chesapeake Bay. Atlantic Ocean beaches are a minimum three-hour drive; traffic tie-ups on summer weekends are horrendous as beachgoers hour's drive east

in

ftinnel into the

twin Chesapeake Bay bridges, where multihour backups

are routine.

Free Weights and Almost lifting

all

Elliptical

Trainers

of the major hotels have a spa or

fitness

room with weight-

equipment. For an aerobic workout, most of the

fitness

rooms

offer a stationary bicycles, a Stairmaster, or an elliptical trainer.

Fitness Centers and Aerobics Many Washington fitness centers are members-only and or short-term memberships.

The few exceptions

Company, www.thefitnesscompany.com,

are

don't offer daily

coed.

all

The

Fitness

features free weights, fixed

full range of aerobic exercise equipment including a Stairmasrowing and cycling machines, and a fijll schedule of aerobics classes. (across Washington Sports Club, at 1835 Connecticut Avenue,

weights, a ter,

NW

from the Hilton near Dupont

and

services as

information,

The

call

Fitness

Circle), offers

Company. The

(202) 332-0100.

much

the

daily rate

is

same

activities

$25. For more

394

Exercise and Recreation

Part Eleven

Tennis Washington's three pubHc tennis clubs are popular, making get a court during peak hours without a reservation.

Tennis Center, located

at

west, has 25 total courts.

The

advance. or go to

club

is

club accepts reservations up to a

open from 7 a.m.

www.rockcreektennis.com Park, features 10 clay

prime-time hours go

fast,

difficult to

16th and Kennedy Streets in Upper North-

The

to

1 1

week

in

p.m. Call (202) 722-5949

more information. on Ohio Drive

for

The East Potomac Tennis Club, Potomac

it

The Rock Creek

located

in East

and 14 hard

courts. Reservations for

and you need

to

make

reservations a

week

in

advance. Players have a good chance of getting a court without reservations

weekdays between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. Rates range from $22 to $30 A credit card deposit is required. Call (202) 554-5962 for more

an hour.

information.

Rock Creek more information.

Pierce Mill, a small tennis center located in

554-5962

clay courts. Call (202)

for

Park,

offers

Recreational Sports: Biking, Hiking, Kayaking, and So

On

Bicycling Washington cling,

from

offers flat

both on- and off-road

and easy

cruises along

Canal Towpath, to challenging

cyclists a

wide variety of bicy-

paved bike paths and the

C&O

terrain in the rolling countryside

of

nearby Virginia and Maryland. In early spring

warmers

to

tures range

summer

and

late fall, cyclists

keep off the

chill.

should wear riding tights and arm

From May through October,

from comfortable

to scorching

—

the tempera-

predictably the latter

on

afternoons. Listen to weather forecasts for predictions of after-

noon thunderstorms

in the late

best season for cycling

summer; they can be fearsome.

around Washington, with

a riot of color as the leaves turn in

mid-

Washington's mild climate offers at

warm enough

to induce cyclists to

A variety of bicycles

to late October.

least a

jump on

Fall

is

cool, crisp weather

Even

the

and

in winter,

few days a month that are their bikes.

are available for rent at

Thompson Boat Center

(one-speed bikes are $4 an hour or $15 a day, and hybrid bikes are $8 an

hour or $25 a day; (202) 333-4861), open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. every day, and bikes must returned by 6 p.m. The center is located between the

Kennedy

Center

and

Georgetown

on

the

Boathouse, above Georgetown on Canal Road, for

2 hours or $12 a day; (202) 244-0461).

Potomac. also rents

Fletcher's

out bikes ($8

395

396

Part Eleven

Road

Biking

Exercise and Recreation

downtown Washington,

In

ing traffic congestion,

pied with bike

monuments and

on Washington's

hardened urban

bicycling

is

better left to couriers. Unrelent-

combined with absent-minded

tourists preoccu-

finding a cheap parking space, makes riding a

streets a brutal

cyclists. Luckily,

experience for

Washington

all

features a

but the most

network of bike

paths that takes the terror out of riding a skinny-tired bike in

—the

of

In terms of great scenery and

Mount Vernon Trail

the

to pedaling the 16 trips to

and

is

paved miles to

Dyke Marsh

to really get a workout,

enough distance

Washington's premier bike path. In addition

Mount Vernon,

cyclists

can make side

wildlife habitat, explore fortifications at Fort

Hunt,

see a 19th-century lighthouse at Jones Point Park.

Another good out-and-back

ride

is

the

Washington and Old Domin-

ion Railroad Regional Park

(W&OD),

bikeway that connects with the

Mount Vernon Trail

Memorial Bridge on the Virginia with a

series

Mount Vernon

Washington by at the

a 4 5 -mile-long, paved linear

side of the

upriver of Arlington

Potomac. The

trail intersects

of "bubble" parks in urban Northern Virginia and provides

access to the rural Virginia countryside

the

—and out

city.

W&OD

and the by riding across the Arlington Memorial Bridge,

Trail

bicycle

beyond the Capital Beltway. Both trail are easily reached from

Lincoln Memorial.

Road

riders itching to see beautiful countryside outside the

Washing-

ton metropolitan area (but within a day's drive) should go to either

Mid-

dleburg, Virginia, or Frederick, Maryland. Middleburg, about 30 miles west of D.C.,

is

in the heart

of Virginia's horse country. Beautiful

rolling countryside in the foothills of the Blue traffic tic

Ridge Mountains and low-

roads bordering thoroughbred horse farms

make

this area a fantas-

place to spin the cranks.

Frederick, Maryland,

is

North of town along US hatcheries, and mountain

about an hour's drive north of Washington. 15, covered bridges,

narrow back roads,

fish

vistas evoke images of Vermont. The Covered Bridge Cicyle Tour starts at Frederick Community College. From D.C.

take 1-270 north to Frederick

Opposumtown

and get on

US

15 north; then exit on

Pike going north to the college, about a mile on the

left.

To the south of Frederick, a 25-mile loop around Sugar Loaf Mountain is

a favorite with local road cyclists.

Mountain Biking Fat-tired cyclists can ride

1

84 miles one-way on the Chesapeake

& Ohio

Canal Towpath, beginning in Georgetown then following along the Potomac River upstream to Cumberland, Maryland. The hardpacked dirt surface gives the illusion

of being

flat all

the way; actually, the trip

Covered Bridge Bicycle Tour

Frederick

Community College

Stan and finish of bicvcle tour

Bicycle route

f-G^- Direction f^

of travel

Covered Bridge

397

398

Recreational Sports

upriver

slightly uphill.

is

Because of floods in the winter and spring,

idea to call the National Park Service at (301)

good

399

sure the section you're planning to ride

Hammerheads looking climbing have to do some

is

open

739-4200

but

it,

a

to cyclists.

for challenging single-track

driving to find

it's

make

to

it's

and some steep

worth

it.

The Fred-

erick Municipal Watershed offers the best technical single-track this side of West Virginia

—and

it's

a lot closer. Located an hour's drive

from

Washington near Frederick, Maryland, the 6,000-acre, mountaintop forest is riddled with narrow trails and well-maintained dirt roads. Since there are hardly any signs or

trail

markers, the Catoctin Furnace

Quad-

rangle topographic

must. Local knowledge

helps, too; call

bike shop, at (301) 663-

9288

map and a compass are a the Wheel Base, Frederick's pro

maps and

for

advice.

Hiking While only about 15 minutes from downtown, Theodore Roosevelt Island wide,

a wilderness oasis offering hikers a litde over three miles of

is

paths through forests,

flat

The park

is

located

swampy

on the Potomac River

marshes, and rocky beaches.

across

from the Kennedy Cen-

and can be reached by car. Park in the area off the northbound lanes of the George Washington Memorial Parkway on the Virginia side of the ter

river.

A footbridge connects

The dirt

way

the Virginia shore to the island.

C&O Canal, which begins in Georgetown, features a hardpacked

path that follows the Potomac River north for 184 miles. Along the are river views, forest, and wildlife. At Great Falls Park, north of

Washington on the Virginia side of the river, the Potomac roars over a series of steep, jagged rocks and flows through a narrow gorge. It's a dramatic scene and worth the trip. Hiking trails follow the river and offer views of

Mather Gorge. Rock Creek Park

offers 15 miles

of hiking

trails,

plus bridle

available at the park headquarters,

in

trails

Northwest Washington

you can

hike.

5163 Williamsburg Lane,

Maps

are

NW (phone

(202) 895-6070).

For a more extensive guide to hikes in the Elliott's

area,

check out author Paul

book, 60 Hikes within 60 Miles: Washington, D.C., published by

Menasha Ridge

(www.menasharidge.com).

Press

Canoeing and Kayaking Canoes and rowboats

Potomac River

at

are available for rent

Thompson Boat

on the

Center,

C&O

Canal and the

located

between the

Kennedy Center and Georgetown (phone (202) 333-4861). Single kayaks are $8 an hour or $24 a day, double kayaks are $10 an hour or $30 a day, and canoes are $8 an hour or $22 a day. Fletcher's Boat House located at Canal and Reservoir Roads above Georgetown (phone

400

Exercise and Recreation

Part Eleven

(202) 244-0461), have canoes for rent at $1

Boats, located on

K Street in Georgetown

canoes and kayaks for rent at the

be rented

1

an hour or $21 a day. Jack's

(phone (202) 337-9642), have

$10 an hour or $30

at

a day. Pedal boats can

Tidal Basin (phone (202) 484-0206): a two-passenger

is $8 an hour and a four-passenger rental is $16 an hour. Whitewater enthusiasts need go only a few miles north of the Capital

rental

Beltway to find excellent Class

through Class VI rapids year-round on

I

Potomac. Local boaters boast that

the

it's

the best urban whitewater

experience in the United States, featuring a very remote, wilderness

One

of the most popular

put-in

at

is

trips

is

have to run a shuttle:

It's

bank

at

rapids.

Maryland's Great

Seasoned paddlers

Angler's Inn

to

don't

your starting

is

very scenic, featuring

is

National Park or become another

to try

and end

Falls

Seneca rapids, no shuttle

190), north of

meaning you

you return

rapids, the river

Falls

may want

below Great

(MD

But you must make the next take-out on the

the river drops through Great

that start

Road

also the take-out,

C&O Canal, about one-and-a-half miles below

Below the Seneca

many islands and no

is

feel.

Seneca rapids section. The

a round-trip that lets

point by paddling up the Violets Lock.

tistic as

II

Violets Lock, located on River

Potomac, Maryland. Violets Lock

left

the Class

sta-

Falls.

running the Class at the

Old

II/III-plus rapids

Angler's Inn.

required: Park across the road

As with

from the Old

on MacArthur Boulevard on the Maryland side of the trail to the put-in. Paddle upstream on the C&O

Potomac and follow the Canal to below Great

Falls (at least

100 yards)

for the return leg.

Boat Rides Sixty-minute excursions leave Georgetown and Great the

C&O

vice guides

Foundry Mall, below $8

for adults

4 to

14.

Virginia,

on

wear nineteenth-century costumes, take the boat through a

and explain the history of the

lock,

Falls,

Canal most days from April to mid-October. National Park Ser-

and $6

M Street

for seniors ages

Call (202) 653-5190

Board and buy

canal.

at Thomas Jefferson

62 and

over,

Street,

tickets near the

NW. Tickets are

and $5 for children ages and more information.

for current schedules

Skiing Moderately good downhill

from Washington and skiing in

ski slopes are

offer dependable,

within a couple hours' drive

machine-made snow and night

from November through March. Whitetail,

a $25-million ski area feet,

14

for information

on

nearby Pennsylvania, features a vertical drop of almost 1,000

trails,

and plenty of lift

ski packages, lodging,

Jointly

capacity. Call (717)

and

lift

328-9400

rates.

owned Ski Roundtop and Liberty Mountain

Resort, also

located in south-central Pennsylvania, are about a two- to three-hour

Spectator Sports

drive

from Washington, Both

offer 600-foot verticals, 13 trails,

percent snowmaking. Call Ski

Mountain Resort

at

Roundtop

(717) 642-8282 for

at

lift

401

and 100-

(717) 432-9631 and Liberty rates, hours, and directions.

Horseback Riding The Rock Creek Park Horse Center

offers

guided

rides

$30

on the equesan hour;

reserRock Creek inches tall for the least be at 30 must vations are required. Children center, The for rides $20. pony offers also guided rides. Rock Creek which is open all year, is located at Military and Glover Roads in Northwest Washington. The hours are Tuesday through Friday, noon

Park. Rates are

trian trails located in

to 6 p.m.; Saturday

or visit

and Sunday, 9 a.m.

for

362-01 17

to 5 p.m. Call (202)

www.rockcreekhorsecenter.com

for

more information.

Golf Washington has three public golf courses operated on National Park Service land and open from dawn to dusk. Fees are $9 to $17 for 9 holes and $19 to $22 for 18 holes weekdays; weekends, the rates range from $1 1 to $27, respectively. Reservations are not accepted. All three courses feature bars, pro shops, rental clubs, and gas cars. East Potomac Golf Course, located in East Potomac Park across from

snack

Washington's waterfront area, offers one 18-hole course, two 9-hole courses, and an 18-hole miniature golf course. It's the busiest of the National Park Service courses; plan to arrive at don't

want

greens,

dawn on weekends

if you

Potomac has wide-open fairways, well-kept views of surrounding monuments. Call (202) 554-

to wait. East

and

great

7660 for more information. Langston Golf Course, at 28th

Street

and Benning Road,

NE

(near

Stadium), features an 18-hole course, including newly remodeled back-9 holes, and a driving range. Langston, the only public course with

RFK

water holes, call

is

located along the Anacostia River. For

more information,

(202) 397-8638.

Rock Creek Golf Course

NW,

is

offers duffers a hilly

and wooded

and Rittenhouse Streets, White House on 16th Street. It

located at l6th

four-and-a-half miles north of the

and challenging 18-hole course through rolling 882-7332 for more information.

hills

terrain. Call (202)

Spectator Sports After waiting

more than 30

years,

our nation's capitol has a

new Major

League Baseball team, the Washington Nationals. America's national pastime returned to D.C. on a professional level when the former Montreal

Expos moved here and began

their first season at

RFK Stadium

in

402

Exercise and Recreation

Part Eleven

spring of 2005. While they were waiting for their

new team

to arrive,

however, Washingtonians developed a fierce devotion to the Baltimore Orioles, only an hour north. Visitors to D.C. can to catch the Birds playing at

home, Oriole Park

downtown Inner Harbor. Check

Baltimore's

baseball,

(named

if you're

Yards, near

home games and

tickets.

one of the growing number of fans of minor-league

Washington

is

worth a minitour. The Class

honor of Francis Scott Key, a

in

the trek by train

Camden

the sports section of the

Washington Post for information on both teams'

However,

make

at

rural

A Frederick Keys

Maryland

native) play in

town of Frederick, Maryland, about an hour to the northeast (phone (301) 662-0013). The Class A Potomac Cannons, a farm team

the historic

for the Cincinnati Reds, play just outside Fairfax

2311

County;

call

(703) 590-

for details.

The

closest option for baseball

where the Bowie Baysox, a Class as the Keys,

is

Prince George's

AA team

County Stadium,

belonging to the same group

have been steadily building a crowd. Both teams are associ-

ated with the Orioles, so they're sentimental favorites. Baysox tickets run

only $12 for box active military.

seats,

$9

Call (301)

for adults,

464-4865

and $6

for children, seniors

and

for information.

For professional basketball, the Washington Wizards and the

WNBA's Mystics

(the league's highest-attendance

MCI

downtown

of the

Center, located

team

in

2002) play out

near Gallery Place. For schedules

and tickets, call (202) 661-5050 or visit the teams' respective Web sites: www.nba.com/wizards and www.wnba.com/mystics. The University of Maryland Terrapins offer topflight college basketball at Comcast Center on the school's campus in suburban College Park. Call (301) 314-7070 for information. Georgetown University plays its home games at MCI Center; for ticket information call (202) 687-HOYA. Lots of luck getting tickets to see professional football in Washington: the

Washington Redskins have

team holds the reputation Still

sold out stadiums for years,

as the hardest ticket to acquire in

interested? Scalpers regularly charge three

ticket price

—and

and the

pro sports.

and four times the regular

higher, if the 'Skins are playing Dallas.

moved from RFK Stadium to what is now The stadium has nearly 92,000 seats, so tickets obtain. Following suite, Baltimore built a new football

In 1997, the Redskins

Fed-Ex Field

in

Landover.

are slighdy easier to

stadium for the Ravens, nee Cleveland Browns. For Redskins schedule and ticket information, call (301) 276-6800 or visit www.redskins.com. For the Ravens,

call

(410) 261 -RAVE or

College football in

Byrd Stadium

Academy

at

is

visit

www.baltimoreravens.com.

another matter.

The Maryland Terrapins play The Naval

College Park (phone (301) 314-7070).

in Annapolis,

Maryland, and

ton also field teams; check the Post for

Howard University in Washinghome game information.

Spectator Sports

403

Washington's professional hockey team, the Washington Capitals, MCI Center in downtown D.C. near Gallery Place. For

plays at the

information,

call

(202) 628-3200.

Pro soccer comes

home games

to

Washington when the D.C. United plays 16

each season (March through September)

RFK

at

Stadium.

Tickets for evening and Sunday afternoon games range from $22 to $55.

For schedule information,

Horse racing

is

call

(202) 587-5000.

available at a

number of

visit.

Bus

service

from the

city

is

around Washington;

tracks

check the Washington Post to see which track

is

during your

in season

usually available.

D.C.-area Horse Tracks

Harness:

Thoroughbred:

Rosecroft

Charles

MD

(30

1

)

(30

262-8

Town Raceways— Charlestown.NA^

1

1

I

567-4000

)

I

(304) 725-7001

Course— Laurel. MD (301) 725-0400 Race Course— Baltimore. MD (410) 542-9400

Laurel Race

Pimlico

MD

Raceway— Fort Washington,

Bowie Race Course— Bowie.

Accommodations Index

Days Inn Connecticut Avenue, 61, 64,

Adam'sinn, 61,64, 68-69

American Inn of Bethesda, 61, 64, 68-69

70-71 Days Inn Crystal

Best Western Arlington, 61, 64,

68-69 68-69

Best Western Capitol Hill, 61, 62, Best Western

Key

Best Western

New Hampshire

63, 67,

Bridge, 61, 64,

68-69

Suites, 60,

Doubletree Hotel

City, 61, 65,

70-71

Cr>'stal City, 58, 65, GG,

70-71 Doubletree Hotel Tysons Corner, 59, 65,

67,70-71

68-69

Best Western Tyson's Westpark, 61, 64,

Econo Lodge National

Airport, 61, 65,

70-71

68-69 Bethesda Court Hotel, 59, 64, 67, 68-69

Embassy

Inn,

61,63,70-71

Embassy Row Hilton,

68-69

Carlyle Suites Hotel, 57, 63,

63,

Channel Inn Hotel, 60, 61, 68-69 Churchhill Hotel, 59, 63, G6, 68-69

Comfort Inn Arlington, 61,

64,

68-69

Comfort Inn Downtown, 61, 62, 68-69 Comfort Inn Landmark, 61, 64, 68-69

Comfort Inn Pentagon,

58, 63,

Embassy Square Summerfield

Capitol Hilton, 59, 62, GG, 68-69

59, 63, 66,

68-69

Comfort Inn Tyson's Corner, 61, 64,

70-71 Suites, 60,

70-71

Embassy

Suites Alexandria, 58, 65,

Embassy

Suites

Chevy Chase,

70-71

58, 64,

70-71

Embassy

Suites Crystal City, 59, 65,

70-71

Downtown,

70-71

Embassy

Suites

Embassy

Suites Tysons Corner, 58, 65, 67,

58, 63,

70-71

68-69 Comfort Inn Washington Gateway, 61, 64,

Fairmont Washinton, D.C., 58, 62, 70-71

68-69 68-69

Courtyard Alexandria, 60, 64, 67, Courtyard

Cr)'stal City, 58, 64,

68-69

Court)'ard Embassy Row, 60, 63,

Courtyard

New

68-69

Carrollton, 59, 64, 67,

Four Points Sheraton Bethesda, 60, 64,

70-71 Four Points Sheraton Downtown, 60, 62,

70-71 Four Seasons Hotel, 57, 63, 70-71

68-69 Courtyard Rosslyn, 60, 64, 70-71

Courtyard Washington

NW,

59, 63,

70-71

Crowne

Plaza National, 60, 64,

70-71

Days Inn Alexandria, 61, 64, 70-71

Georgetown Inn, 59, 63, 70-71 Governor's House, 60, 63, 72-73

Grand Hyatt Washington, Hamilton Crowne

58, 62,

Plaza, 57, 62,

72-73

72-73

405

Accommodations Index

406

Hampton Inn Hawthorn

Alexandria, 60, 65,

Hay-Adams

Hotel, 57, 62,

Hilton Alexandria 67,

11-1^

Suites Hotel, 60, 65, 67,

at

Mark

72-73

Loews LEnfant

Plaza, 58, 61, 67,

Madison Hotel,

58, 62,

76-77

76-77 76-77

72-73

Mandarin

Center, 58, 65,

Marriott Crystal City, 59, 65, 76-77

Oriental, 57, 61,

Marriott Crystal Gateway, 59, 65, 76-77

72-73

Marriott Hotel Bethesda, 59, 64, 76-77

Hilton Arlington and Towers, 59, 65,

Marriott Hotel Key Bridge, 59, 65, 76-77

72-73 Hilton Garden Inn, 60, 62, 72-73

Marriott Metro Center, 60, 62, 76-77

Hilton of Silver Spring, 60, G\, 67, 72-73

Marriott Tysons Corner, 59, 65, 76-77

Hilton Washington, 59, 63, 67, 72-73

Marriott

Wardman

Park Hotel, 59, 64,

Holiday Inn Alexandria, 61, 65, 72-73

76-77

Holiday Inn Adington, 59, 65, 72-73

The Melrose

Holiday Inn Capitol, 60, 62, 72-73

Morrison-Clark Inn, 58, 64, 76-77

Holiday Inn Central, 60, 64, 72-73

Morrison House, 58, 65, 76-77

Hotel, 58, 63,

76-77

Holiday Inn Chevy Chase, 60, 64, 72-73

Holiday Inn Downtown, 61, 62, 72-73 Holiday Inn Georgetown, 60, G^, 66,

Omni Shoreham Hotel, 58, 64, 76-77 One Washinton Circle Hotel, 58, 62, 76-77

72-73 Holiday Inn Hotel and

Suites, 60, 65,

Park Hyatt, 57, 63, 76-77

72-73 Holiday Inn National Airport, 60, 65, 67,

Phoenix Park Hotel, 61, 76-77

72-73 Holiday Inn on the

Hill, 60, 62,

Holiday Inn Rosslyn 65,

at

Key

72-73

Quality Inn College Park, 61, 64, GJ

Bridge, 60,

Quality Inn Iwo Jima, 60, 65, 67, 7G-77

72-73

Holiday Inn Select Bethesda, 60, 64, Radisson Barcelo Hotel, 59, 63, 76-77

74-75 Holiday Inn Select Old Town, 59, 65,

74-75 Holiday Inn

Silver Spring, 60, 64,

74-75

Radisson Plaza Hotel Old Town, 60, 65,

76-77 Red Roof Inn Downtown,

61, 62,

78-79

Hotel Helix, 58, 64, 74-75

Hotel Lombardy, 60, 62, 67, 74-75

Residence Inn, 58, 64, 78-79

Hotel Madera, 58, 63, 74-75

Residence Inn

Dupont

Circle, 59, 63,

78-79

Hotel Monaco, 58, 62, 74-75

Residence Inn Pentagon City, 59, 65,

Hotel Monticello, 59, 63, 74-75

78-79

Hotel Rouge, 58, 63, 74-75

Residence Inn Vermont Avenue, 59, 62,

Hotel Topaz, 57, 63, 66, 74-75

78-79

Hotel Washington, 59, 62, 74-75

Ritz-Carlton Georgetown, 57, 63, 78-79

Hyatt Arlington, 58, 65, 74-75 Hyatt Regency Bethesda, 59, 64, 74-75 Hyatt Regency Capitol

76-77

Renaissance Mayflower Hotel, 57, 62,

HotelGeorge, 58, 61,74-75

Hill, 59, 62,

74-75

Hyatt Regency Crystal City, 58, 65, 74-75

Ritz-Carlton Pentagon City, 57, 65,

78-79 Ritz-Carlton Washington, D.C., 57, 63,

78-79 Jefferson Hotel, 57, 62, 67,

Jurys

J.W

74-75

River Inn, 58, 62, 67, 78-79

Normandy, 60, 63, 74-75 Marriott Hotel, 58, 62, 74-75, 91

Savoy Suites Hotel, 60, 64, 78-79 Sheraton Crystal City, 60, 65, 78-79

Kalorama Guest House, 60, 63, 66, 74-75

Sheraton National, 59, 65, 78-79 Sheraton Pentagon South, 60, 65, 78-79

Latham Hotel,

59, 63, 67,

74-75

Lincoln Suites, 60, 62, 74-75

Sheraton Premiere Tysons Corner, 57, 65,

78-79

Accommodations Index Sheraton Suites Alexandria, 58, 65, 78-79 Sofitel Ufayette, 58, 62, St.

Gregory Luxury Hotel and 63,

St.

78-79 Suites, 58,

Washington Renaissance Hotel, 59, 62,

66,80-81 Washington Suites Alexandria, 59, 65,

80-81

78-79

Regis, 58, 62,

407

Washington

78-79

State Plaza Hotel, 60, 62, 67,

78-79

Suites

Georgetown, 58, 63,

80-81 Washington Terrace Hotel, 58, 64, 80-81

Tabard Inn, 61, 63, 78-79

Watergate Hotel, 57, 62, 67, 80-81

Westin Embassy Row, 58, 63, 80-81

80-81

Washington Court Hotel, 59, 62, 78-79

WestinGrand,

Washington Marriott Hotel, 59, 63,

Willard Intercontinental, 57, 62, 80-81

78-79 Washington National Airport Hilton, 59,

65,67,80-81 Washington Plaza Hotel, 61, 62, 80-81

57, 63,

Windsor Park Hotel, 61, 63, 80-81

Wyndham Wyndham

City Center, 59, 63, 67, 80-81

Washington, 58, 62, 80-81

Restaurant Index

Addie's, 254, 265, 268,

Cafe Promenade, 257

274

America, 273

Cafe Rose, 257

Andale, 260, 265, 267, 275

Capital Grille, 259,

Antrim 1844,257

Capitol City Brewing

Ashby

Cashion's Eat Place, 266, 268,

Inn,

257

Athenian Plaka, 264, 268, 275-76 Austin

Grill,

266, 267, 268, 269, 276-77

270

Company, 9 1 270 284-85 ,

Caucus Room, 258, 270 Charlie Palmer Steak, 254, 270, 273

Chef Geoff's, 260 Bangkok Garden, 266, 268, 277

Chopsticks, 272

257

Bar Rouge, 26

Circle Bistro,

Benjarong, 266, 268, 277-78

Citronelle, 254, 264, 267, 273,

The

Bistro,

257

Bistro Bis, 264, 267, 273,

278-79

Bistro Fran^aise, 264, 267, Blackie's,

279

Coeur de Lion, 257 Colvin

Run Tavern,

265, 269, 273,

285-86

270

Black's Bar

285

CityZen, 254, 257

& Kitchen, 266, 268, 271,

Courduroy, 265, 267, 273, 286-87

279-80 Blue Point

D.C. Coast, 265, 267, 273, 287

271

Grill,

Dish, 257

BobbyVan's, 254, 270

Bombay Bombay

Bistro,

Shula's,

270 Co., 270

270

Brickseller,

Bullfeathers,

Don

DuClaw Brewing

Club, 259

Brewer's Alley,

The

264, 268, 269, 280-81

270

Ella's

Burma, 263, 267, 281 Busara, 266, 267, 269, 271,

Wood-Fired

Pizza, 260,

271

Equinox, 254, 265, 267, 287-88

259

Etrusco, 264, 268,

288-89

281-82 Faccia Luna, 271

257

Cafe 15,260

15ria, 254,

Cafe Atlantico/Minibar, 260, 265, 267,

Finemondo, 260

272, 273, 282-83

Fiore di Luna,

273

260

Cafe Bethesda, 254

Firefly Restaurant,

Cafe Deluxe, 271

Five Guys,

Caf^ Divan, 266, 267, 283

Fleming's Steakhouse

Cafe Milano, 258, 264, 267, 283-84

Four and Twenty Blackbirds, 257

Cafe Mozu, 257

Four Seasons Hotel Garden Terrace, 272

408

270

& Wine Bar, 270

Restaurant Index Four

Sisters

(Huong Que), 266, 269, 289 and Brewpub, 270

Franklin's Restaurant

L'Auberge Chez Fran9ois, 264, 269, 273,

301-2 Le Mannequin

Gabriel, 265, 268, 272,

Pis,

261, 269, 305

Le Paradou, 260, 264, 267, 273, 305-6

289-90

Galileo, 256, 259, 264, 268, 273,

409

290-91

Les Halles, 259

Georgia Brown's, 259, 266, 267, 272, 291 Maestro, 264, 269, 273, 306-7

Geranio, 265, 269, 291-92 Gerard's Place, 264, 267, 273,

292-93

Makoto, 264, 268, 307-8

Ginza, 272

Marcel's, 264, 268,

Good

Market Inn, 259

Fortune, 263, 268, 293

Goose Run, 257

Gordon

Biersch Brewery Restaurant,

270

Street Grill,

Mark's

Duck House,

Green Papaya, 266, 268, 294

Mayim, 258

The

McCormick's

269, 295-96 Grill

263, 269, 308-9

254

Matisse,

Morrison House), 265,

257

Market

Grapeseed, 265, 268, 273, 293-94

Grille (at the

308

& Schmick's, 272

Melrose, 259, 265, 267, 272, 273,

from Ipanema, 263, 268, 295

MieNYu,

Guapo's, 271

309-10

Meskerem, 264, 268, 310 271

Miyagi, 272

Ha Ku Ba, 272 Hama Sushi, 272

Momo Taro,

Hard Rock Cafe, 271

Montmarte, 264, 266, 310-11

Helix, 261

Morton's, 260

Heritage India, 264, 267, 268, 296

Morton's of Chicago, 270

Hermitage Inn, 257

Murasaki, 264, 268, 272, 311-12

272

Monocle, 259

Hops, 270 Nectar,

Indique, 264, 268,

The Inn

at Little

New

297

Washington, 254, 265,

269, 273, 297-98

The

J.

Irish

Inn

Gilbert's,

at

Glen Echo, 272

Nick and

254

Occidental

Grill,

313-14

259

Oceanaire Seafood Room, 260, 266, 267,

298-99

271,314

Jean-Michel, 264, 268, 299 the Watergate,

Old

257

Jockey Club, 257

John Harvard's Brewhouse, 270 Johnny's Half Shell, 266, 268,

299-300

Angler's Inn, 265, 269, 272, Grill,

Old

263,267,316

Glory,

Bistro, 264, 267,

272, 300-301

314-15

259, 263, 267, 271, 272,

Old Ebbitt 315-16 Olives,

Kaz Sushi

Stef's,

Niwano Hana, 272 Nora, 265,268, 312-13 Obelisk, 264, 268, 273,

270

Jaleo, 265, 267, 268, 269, 272, 273,

Jeffrey's at

257

Heights, 265, 268, 272, 273, 312

254

OlneyAle House, 271

Kennedy Center Roof Terrace, 272, 273

Oodles Noodles, 271

Kinkead's, 266, 267, 271, 272, 273, 301

Ortanique, 254, 260, 263, 267, 316-17

Komi, 254 Palena,256, 265, 268, 317-18

257

La Chaumi^re, 264, 267, 302-3

Palette,

La CoUine, 259, 264, 266, 303

Palm, 259, 270

La Cote D'Or Cafe, 264, 269, 304

Paya Thai, 273

Lafayette, 257,

273

La Miche, 254, 264, 268, 304-5

Perry's,

273

Persimmon, 254, 265, 269, 318

Restaurant Index

410

P.F.Chang's, 271

Tachibana, 272

Pizzeria Paradise, 265, 267, 268, 271,

Tako

Poste, 254,

Grill,

264, 269, 272, 325

TaraThai, 266, 269, 271,326

318-19

Taste of Saigon, 266, 269,

257

Tavira, 266, 269,

Prime Rib, 260, 270

The Tea Cozy, 269

Primi

Piatti,

326-27

327

Potomack Landing, 273

Teaism, 269

271

Teatro Goldoni, 264, 267, 271,

Radio Free

Italy,

Thai Farm, 329

Rainforest Cafe, 271

319-20

Tono

Sushi,

Restaurant Eve, 256, 265, 320-21

Tony

& Joe's, 273

Restaurant Nora, 259, 273

Topaz

Restaurant Seven, 255

Tosca, 264, 267,

RFD, 271

Turning Point Inn, 257

Red

Sage, 265, 267, 271,

260

Rock Bottom Restaurant

Bar,

272

261

329-30

2941,254,265,269,330-31

Ristorante Filomena, 271 Ristorante Tosca,

327-28

TenPenh, 265, 267, 328-29

271

& Brewery, 270

Two Amys, 271 Two Quail, 259

Rocklands, 263, 267, 269, 321 Ruth's Chris Steakhouse,

270

Union

Street Public

House, 271

Sakana, 272

Vidalia, 265, 268, 273,

Sake Club, 272

The View

Sam

& Harrys, 270, 273

331-32

Steakhouse, 273

Virginia Beverage Co.,

270

Sea Catch, 266, 267, 272, 322 Seasons, 257,

WiUard Room, 257

273

Willow Grove, 257

Sequoia, 273

1789, 265, 268, 322-23 Signatures, 256, 260,

Smith

& Wollensky, 254, 270

Stone Manor, 257

Summit

Station,

Woo

Lae Oak, 265, 269, 332

273 Yoko, 272 Yosaku, 272

270

Sushi-Ko, 264, 268, 272, 323

Zaytina, 260, 265, 267,

Sushi Taro, 272

Zed's, 264, 268,

Sweetwater Tavern, 270

Zio's,

332-33

333-34

271

Zola, 254, 260, 265, 267, 273,

Tabard Inn, 264, 268, 324 Taberna del Alabardero, 260, 266, 267, 273, 324-25

334

Subject Index

Art

Accommodations See also Accommodations Index

184, 191-92,

Bed-and-breakfasts (B&Bs), 46

30

best deals,

66-67

comparison

chart,

convention

rates,

Art

191-92 Hirshhorn

197-99

ratings/rankings,

51-81

star rating system,

National

Museum

of African Art, 139,

182, 183, 199-200

55

numbers, 52

National

41-42

National

to stay,

Accommodations

Museum Museum

Arts, 139, 182,

Express, 45

of American Art, 139 of Women in the

185,226

National Portrait Gallery, 139, 14 1,

Acela Express, 99

Adams-Morgan (Zone

6), 105,

164,

339-41

154,227 Phillips Collection, 139, 153, 182, 185,

Airports

Baltimore- Washington International,

Ronald Reagan "Washington National,

Folklife Festival,

33

An American

9),

106

Holiday Celebration, 37

Anderson House, 140, 141, 234-35 Andres, Jose Annapolis,

Ramon, 256

MD,

168-69

Arts and Industry Building, 142 Attractions

churches/houses of worship, 180

governmnet buildings open

166,357,358

grouped by Metro Station, 163-66 historic buildings and homes, 180-81

libraries,

181

Arlington House, 140, 141

listed

by type, 180-83

Arlington National Cemetery, 140, 141,

listed

by zone, 183-86

153, 180, 183,

for tours,

180

hours of operation, 143-44

Area codes, 109 Stage,

206

cemeteries, 180

Amtrak, 38, 99, 168 Anacostia (Zone

Gallery, 139, 182, 184,

Smithsonian American Art Museum,

227

38-39, 94, 96 Washington-Dulles, 39, 94, 97, 99

American

234 Renwick

99

39, 98,

Arena

Sculpture

National Gallery of Art, 139, 182, 183,

numerical rating system, 56 parking, 42

toll-free

Museum and

Garden, 139, 181, 183, 192-93

by zone, 61-65

where

in the Arts,

188-89

Freer Gallery of Art, 139, 181, 183,

information chart, 68-81 listed

208-9

of the Americas, 139

139, 181, 183,

42

hotel taxes,

Museum

Corcoran Gallery of Art

57-61

49-51

42^9

discounts,

museums

Arthur M. Sackler Gallery, 139, 182,

186-87

Memorial Day Ceremonies, 33

monuments and memorials, 181 museums and galleries, 181-82

411

Subject Index

412

Gettysburg National Battlefield, 170

Attractions (continued)

and

parks, gardens

theaters/performances,

1

170

183

Manassas National

83

Spotsylvania National Military Park, 170

zoos,

Battlefield,

Clarice Smith Performing Arts Center at

Maryland, 359

Babe Ruth House, 169 Baltimore,

MD,

C&O Canal mule-drawn boat rides, 35 C&O Canal Towpath Trail, map, 391

169

Baltimore Orioles, 401-2

Barbecue Baseball,

Battle,

Consolidators, 45

34

Constitution Gardens, 140

402

Basketball,

Constitution Hall, 139

402

Bed and Breakfast Accommodations

Ltd.,

Bed

Crime, 110-17

Customs and

46

protocol,

106—8

& Breakfasts-Country Inns and The

Official

Guide

to

American Historic Inns

Disabled tourists, 108, 133-35, 257

342-43

Bethesda, 255,

Donna, Roberto, 254, 256, 259 Downtown (Zone 3), 104-5

Bishops Garden, 140 Black, Barbara,

Decatur House, 140, 141, 180, 183,

190-91

46

(Sakach),

254

106-7

Black Rock Center for the Arts, 359

Dress,

Bowie Race Course, 403

Driving, 34-37, 119-20

Bureau of Engraving and Printing

Dumbarton Oaks Mansion and Museum, 140, 182, 185,229-30 Dupont Circle, 102, 105-6, 140, 341-42 Dupont Circle/Adams Morgan (Zone 6),

National, 139, 140, 183, 187-88

Business travelers, 49-50, 83, 90

102, 105-6, 140, 268 Dupont-Kalorama Museum Walk Day, 34

Cam, Yannick, 254 Capital Jazz Fest, 34

Capitol Hill (Zone 2), 104, 215, 266, 343 Capitol Reservations, 45

Center for Science in the Public

Interest,

Potomac Golf Course, 401

East

Potomac Tennis Club, 394

Edgar Allen Poe House, 169

254

The Center

for the Arts at

University,

Charles

East

Town

George Mason

165

Embassy Row, 140, 164

Raceways, 403

Encore, 44

Enid A. Haupt Garden, 140

Chefs Collective, 254

Chesapeake

Ellipse,

358

& Ohio Canal and Towpath,

and recreation

Exercise

boat

rides,

ten least popular sights, 151

394-99 400 canoeing and kayaking, 399-400 fitness centers and aerobics, 393 free weights and elliptical trainers, 393

ten most popular sights, 146

golf,

401

141,

biking,

142,399

Children's National Medical Center, 150 Children's sightseeing, 139,

146-51

Children's Concierge, 159

399

Chinatown, 91, 164, 165

hiking,

Churches/houses of worship

horseback riding, 401

Adas

Israel

horse racing, 402

Synagogue, 142

Basilica of the Shrine of the

Immaculate

running, 390-93

400-401

Conception, 142, 180, 185, 241-42

skiing,

Franciscan Monastery and Gardens,

spectator sports,

242-43 Center, 142, 180, 185, 232-33

140, 142, 154, 180, 186, Islamic St.

John's Episcopal Church, 142

Washington National Cathedral, 139, 140, 142, 152, 180,

185,240-41

City Paper, 109 Civil

War

Antietam National

tennis,

Battefield,

170

394 389-90

walking,

Fashion Centre, 335 Federal Bureau of Investigation, 139, 140,

155,222 and events, calendar, 32-37 The Fitness Company, 393 Festivals

Battlefields

401-3

swimming, 393

Subject Index 400

Jack's Boats,

Flea markets

413

Bethesda Flea Market, 338

Georgetown Flea Market, 337 Women's Co-op, 338 Fletcher's Boat House, 399-400 Foggy Bottom (Zone 4), 105, 267

Kenilworth Park and Aquatic Gardens,

Folger Shakespeare Library, 140, 141, 181,

Kennedy Center Prelude Koonz, Gray, 254 Krinn, Jonathan, 254

140, 182,

402

Ford, Jacques,

House, 141, 180,

Leeds, Jamie,

Playbill Cafe,

MD,

403

254

Legg Mason Tennis

FortMcNair, 140, 166

Liberty

358

Mountain

House (Cedar Hill), 139, 141, 180, 186,244-45 Frederick Municipal Watershed, 399

216-17 Malls

Chevy Chase

Pavilion,

Fairfax Square,

Gaithersburg, 255

The Fashion

Center,

Georgetown (Zone 5) restaurants, 267-68

Georgetown

Park,

shopping, 338-39 sightseeing, 105, 140, 141

tour of JFK residences, 175

George University Medical Center,

1

50

George Washington's Birthday Parade, 32 George Washington University Medical

336

336

Gadsby's Tavern, 155

335-36

337

Mazza Gallerie, 336 Montgomery Mall, 336 Old Post Office Pavilion, 337 Shops at National Place, 337 Tysons Corner, 336 Union Station, 337 White Flint Mall, 336

Maps

Center, 150

Germantown, 255 Goddard Space Flight Center, 142 Gray, Todd, 254,

34 400

Classic,

Resort,

Library of Congress, 139, 152, 181, 184,

396

Frederick Douglass

Great

36

Langston Golf Course, 401 Laurel Race Course,

184,356 Fort McHenry, 169

Frederick,

Festival,

254

Ford's Theatre/Petersen

1409

140, 141, 153, 183, 185,

227-28, 356

184,214-16 Football,

186,245-46

Kennedy Center,

Airport, 98

Capitol Hill, 215

257

Falls Park, 142,

Baltimore- Washington International

C&O Canal Towpath Trail, 391

399

Covered Bridge Bicycle Tour, 396 Harper's Ferry National Historical Park,

Mount Vernon Trail, 392 Ronald Reagan Washington National

169-70 Historic Alexandria Candlelight Tours,

Airport, 96

Sugar Loaf Mountain Bicycle Tour, 398

37

touring zones 1-6, 8

Hockey, 402

Homeless people,

1

touring zones 7-11, 9

16—17

Hospitals, 150

Washington, D.C. and

Hotel Discounts, 45

Washington and Old Dominion

Hotels.com, 45

Railroad Regional Park, 395 Washington Convention Center, 84-87

Hotel

& Travel Index, 45

House of Representatives, 176, 177 House of the Temple, 139, 180, 185, 231-32 Inner Harbor, 169

and Approved, Bed & Breakfasts and Country Inns (Stuhlman),

Inspected, Rated,

46 International Travel Card,

44

vicinity,

95

Washington Convention Center: Concourse A, B, and C, 84 Washington-Dulles International Airport, 96 Washington Old Town Trolley Tour, Zone 1, National Mall, 10-11

Zone Zone Zone

2,

Capitol Hill, 12-13

3,

Downtown D.C, 14-15

4,

Foggy Bottom, 16

1

56

Subject Index

414

Maps (continued) Zone 5, Georgetown, 17 Zone 6, Dupont Circle/ Adams-Morgan,

18-19

Zone Zone Zone Zone Zone

7,

Upper Northwest D.C., 20-21

8,

Northeast D.C., 22

9,

Southeast D.C., 23

10, 11,

Morales, Frank, 254

Mount Vernon

and Gardens, 140,

Estate

186,250-51

141, 154-55, 181,

Mount Vernon Square, 102 Mount Vernon Trail, 142, 392, 396 Museums. See also Art museums Anacostia Museum, 139, 141, 181, 186,244

Maryland suburbs, 24-25 Virginia suburbs, 26-27

MARC (Maryland commuter train), 99,

Bethune

Museum and Archives,

B&O Railroad Museum, Museums

Marine Corps Marathon, 36 Maryland Science Center, 169

Maryland suburbs (Zone

10),

City

(Brewmaster's Castle), 140,

185,230-31

180,

268-69

169

House Mansion and

Christian Heurich

168

139,

141

Museum

of Washington, l4l, 164,

165

Mather Gorge, 399 Mathieson, Jon, 254

Daughters of the American Revolution

McCoy,

Museum,

Eric,

254

African-American Civil

War Memorial,

139, 141

Black Revolutionary

War

Patriots

Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial,

141,181,184,206-8 George Mason Memorial, 141

Museum,

141, 142,

184,222-23

184,224 and Albert Small Jewish

Museum, 142

JefFerson Memorial, 140, 141, 181,

Lincoln

Museum

(in Ford's Theatre),

141

183, 193

Korean War Veterans Memorial, 141 Lincoln Memorial, 139, 140, 141, 181,

Law Enforcement

Officers

182,

War

II

Memorial, 141,

142, 153, 182, 183,

182,

U.S. Navy Memorial, 1 41, 165 Vietnam Veterans Memorial, 33, 14 1, 181, 184,210-11

Vietnam Memorial, l4l

Meridian International Center, 139, 140,

National

Museum,

141,

Museum

of Health and

Medicine, 142, 182, 185, 238-39 National

Museum

139, 182,

of Natural History,

184,202-3

Museum

National Postal

Metrobus, 132

182,

Metroliner, 99

Textile

of the American

Museum, 235-36

Series,

184,201-2

Museum,

139, 142,

184,217-18 140, 182, 185,

U.S. Holocaust Memorial 141, 182,

Mark, 254

139, 142,

186,248-49 National Museum of American History, 141, 142, 182, 184,200-201

Indian, 141, 182,

The Metro, 102-3, 121-35

Monis, Johnny, 254

Museum,

184,224-25

National

185,233

Metal detectors, 177

35

139,

142, 182,

U.S. Holocaust Memorial, l4l

Metro Mobility Link, 134 Military Band Summer Concert

Museum,

194-96

National Cryptologic

181, 184,203-4 Navy Memorial, 14

Flight Center,

186,247-48

National Building

Memorial, 33, 41 National World

NASA/Goddard Space National Air and Space

183, 194

Miller,

Gardens, 140,

185,237-38

International Spy

Lillian

Iwo Jima Memorial, 140, 141

180,

Museum and

Koshland Science Museum, 142, 181,

Memorial, 165

in

Hillwood

181,

George Washington National Masonic

Women

Dumberton Oaks Mansion and Museum, 140, 182, 185, 229-30 153, 181,

Memorial, 139, 141

National

139, 140, 152, 181, 183,

189-90

Memorials

Museum,

184,209-10

Washington Monument Museum, l4l at Strathmore Hall, 358

Music Center

Subject Index National Aquarium, 139, 165, 182, 183,

415

Platinum, 370. 372, 384-85

pubs/brewhouses, 367-68, 372

196 National Archives, 139, 141, 174-75,

196-97

red-light areas/sex boutiques,

369-70

373

singles bars,

National Cherr)' Blossom Festival, 32

Takoma

National Christmas Tree Lighting/Pageant

Yacht Club of Bethesda, 371, 373, 385-

Station Tavern, 371, 372,

86

of Peace, 37 National Coalition for the Homeless, 117

National Geographic Society's Explorer's Hall, 139, 182,

185,225-26

National Independence

Day

Zanzibar, 370, 372,

breweries,

367 367-68

coffee bars,

367

National Mall, 140, 164

369 354-55 overview, 353—54

National Theatre, 357

safety,

National Wildlife Visitor Center, 139,

singles bars,

Law Enforcement

Memorial Candlelight

142, 183,

Officers

Vigil,

386-87

Nightlife billiard parlors,

Celebration,

34 National

385

33

186,249-50

eating solo, nightclubs,

370

dieater,

368 355-60

National Zoological Park, 139, 183, 185,

O'Connell, Patrick, 254

239-40 Neighborhoods, 104-6

Newman, Mina, 255 Nightclubs bar and grills/buffets, 371

Birchmere, 371,372-73

Black Cat, 370, 371,372,373 Blues Alley 370, 372,

374-75

Olney Theatre, 359 Outtawa, Marou, 256

Blues Gin, 370, 374 Brickskeller, 370, 373,

375

Buffalo Billiards, 371, 373,

375-76

Chi-Cha Lounge, 371, 376 cigar bars, 367 cocktail lounges,

The Octagon, 140, 1 41, 181, 184,204-5 Old Executive Office Building, 165 Old Post Office Tower and Pavilion, 139, 140,165,181,184,205-6 Old Stone House, 141 Old Town Alexandria, 140, 141, 181, 186, 251-52,343

371

254 167-68

Palladin, Jean-Louis,

Parking, 42, 121, Pearl

Harbor

Day 37

comedy 360-61, 372

Penn Quarter, 255, 356

dance clubs, 365-66, 372

Pentagon, 151

Dave & Buster's, 371, 376-77 Dream, 371,372, 377-78 Dubliner, 370, 373, 378 Evening at the Improv, 372 gay night spots, 368-69

Pierce Mill,

Half Moon Bar-B-Que, 371, 372, 378-

PouUion, Nora, 254

394

Pimlico Race Course, 403

Pope John Paul

II

Cultural Center, 142

Potomac

Park,

142

Potomac

Spirit,

104

79

Hard Rock

Cafe, 370, 371, 379

The Improv, Iota,

370, 380

Quest, 44

Quikbook, 45

371,373,380-81

Jammin'Java, 371,373, 381

Racetracks,

403 175

listed

by type, 371-72

Radio

listed

by zone, 370-71

Recommended Country Inns, Mid-Atlantic and Chesapeake Region (Chase), 46

live jazz

live

and

blues,

361-65, 372

pop/rock, 361-65, 372

Lulu's

Night Club, 371, 373, 381-82

MCCXXIII, 371,372, 382 Nation, 371,383 9:30, 373,

383-84

Ozio,370,371,384

stations,

Reflecting Pool, 144

Reservations

making your own, 47-48 45-46

services,

Restaurants/dining. See also Restaurant

Index

416

Subject Index Thai, 266

Restaurants/dining.

266

American, 263

Turkish,

barbecue, 263

value rating,

Rest rooms, 109-10

269 TJ^-1 1

best afternoon teas, best burgers,

271

21\-12

best

raw

best

Sunday brunches, 272

bars,

best views, best

wine

Tl'i-lA.

best with tables in the kitchen,

biggest beef steakhouses, Brazilian,

Lee's

Robert E.

Parilla

Performing Arts Center,

Rock Creek Park Horse Center, 40 Rock Creek Park (Zone 7), 106, 142, 399 Rock Creek Tennis Center, 394

273

lists,

Birthday Celebration, 32

Robert E.

359 Rock Creek Golf Course, 401

272

best sushi bars,

256

Richard, Michel,

271

best family dining, best pizza,

262

Vietnamese, 266

263

Belgian,

273

Ronald Reagan Building, 139, 140 Roosevelt Island, 142

270

Rosecroft Raceway, 403

263

Round House Theater, 358

Burmese, 263 Caribbean, 263 chefs,

254-55, 256, 259, 260

Salvatore,

cost,

Damien, 254

Sandy Point

Chinese, 263

State Park,

257-58

for the disabled,

Senate, 176, 177

Ethiopian, 264

Shenandoah National

French, 264

Shopping (brewed on-site), 270

freshest beers

Greek, 264 Indian,

264

256-57

industry trends, Italian,

264

Japanese,

393

Scott Circle, 102

262

264

Park, 169

Adams-Morgan and antiques, 343-44 art, 344-45 bargains, 345—46 Bethesda, 342-43 bookstores, 346-47

U Street,

Capitol Hill, 343

Korean, 265 listed

by cuisine and

listed

by zone, 266-69

star rating,

locating the restaurant,

263-66

Chevy Chase, 342 art, 347

decorative

262-63

Dupont

Modern American, 265 Modern Mexican, 265

flea

most entertaining

malls in D.C.,

decor, 271

347-48 341-42

designer clothing,

Middle Eastern, 265

Circle,

337

markets,

Georgetown, 338-39

337

new downtown dining, 260-61 new hotel dining, 257 new restaurant districts, 255

museum shops, 348—49 Old Town Alexandria, 343

New Southwestern,

political

265

oriental rugs,

349

memorabilia, 349

and photography, 349-50

new Washington cookery, 253-55 Nuevo Latino, 265

prints

Pan-Asian, 265

suburban malls, 335-36

paying the pizza,

bill,

263

Portuguese,

famous people, 258-60

266

274-334 quality rating, 262 seafood, 266 Southern, 266 Spanish, 266 Tex-Mex, 266 profiles,

salon products,

Washington

350

insider items,

348

watches, 350

265

places to see

339-41

wine and gourmet foods, 350-51 writing implements, 351 Sightseeing

avoiding the heat, 176

beyond the Beltway, categories, 138-142

1

68-70

with children, 139, 146-51 Civil

War

battlefields,

170

1

Subject Index D.C.

after dark,

helpful hints

176

and

400

Tidal Basin,

170-73

tips,

Tipping, 107

intragroup incompatibility, 145-46

Torpedo

one-day touring, 166—68

Tourist seasons, 29-33, 145

photo

Tours

174, 177

tips,

Factory, 165

planning, 137-38

Bike the

touring information, 172-77

Children's Concierge,

tours,

152-77

African-American, 139 architecture,

159 1

59

Z)^«^ cruise ship, 158-59 DC Duck Tours, 158 Georgetown tour of JFK residences, 175 GNP's Scandal Tours, 159

Sight-seeing categories

art

Sites,

Covered Bridge Bicycle Tour, 396

171-72

travel tips,

417

139

Gray

museums, 139

Line, 157, 158

children, 139

Guide Service of Washington, 159

decorative arts and antiques, 140

Intragroup incompatibility, \45-i6

gardens, 140

Kalorama House and Embassy Tour, 36

government, 140

Monuments by Moonlight, 157

140

great views, 140

Odyssey ///cruises,

historical buildings

and

sites,

141

Old Town

58

157

159-163

Plan,

orientation and guided tours,

141

monuments and memorials, 141

Red Line Tour, 163

outdoors, 142

Spirit Cruises,

overview,

1

Trolley, 156,

Optimum Touring

history, 14

military,

Red Trolley, 157

Li'l

great places to walk,

158

Sugar Loaf Mountain Bicycle Tour,

138-39

398

142

places of worship,

top 20 tours, 152-55

technology, 142

Signature Theatre, 358

Tourmobile, 134-35, 157

60 Hikes within 60 Miles:Washington, D.C.

VIP

fare card,

Traffic,

122-27, 129-30, 167

58

103-4, 119, 121

Smithsonian Access, 108

by

driving,

(the Castle), 162, 182, Festival,

car,

93

34-37

184,209

the Metro, 102-3

32

by plane, 38-39, 94-99

Smithsonian's Udvar-Hazy Center, 141

taxis,

Soap Box Derby, 34

by

Soccer,

1

Transportation

Smithsonian Institution Building

Smithsonian Kite

142-43

Trabocchi, Fabio, 256

Skyline Drive, 169

SmarTrip

tours,

Washington After Dark,

399 Rountop, 400

(Elliott),

Ski

155-59

403

103, 132-33

train,

37-38, 99, 168

Travel agents, 45,

Society of the Cincinnati, 181, 185,

46-47

Travel America at Half Price

(Entertainment Publications), 44

234-35 Source Theater Co., 358

Travel packages,

Southwest Waterfront (Zone

1),

104

Tudor

Place,

48-49

140

Studio Theater, 358

Swope, Alison, 260

Union Station, 218-19

Taste of D.C. Festival, 36

U.S.

SuperShutde, 94, 99

Upper Northwest (Zone 7), 106, 268 Army Band's 1812 Overture Concert, 34

Telephones, 109 Tepper, Jason,

U.S. Botanic Garden, 140, 183, 184, 219

254

U.S. Capitol, 139, 140, 141, 152, 180,

Theater], 358

Theodore Roosevelt

Thompson Boat Ticket Place,

99, 139, 181, 184, 186,

Island,

Center,

357-58

399

399

184,220 U.S. Department of Interior, 182, 185,

228

Subject Index

418

U.S. Department of State Diplomatic

Reception Rooms, 140, 152, 180, 185,

Washington

Washington Times, 108

229 U.S. Department of the Treasury, 140, 153

Weather, 29, 31

U.S. National Arboretum, 140, 183, 186,

Web

sites

Amtrak, 168

243 U.S.

108

Post.

Washington Sports Club, 393

Navy Memorial Concerts on

Avenue

the

Arena

Stage,

357

bed-and-breakfasts, 46, 50

35

Series,

U.S. Supreme Court, 139, 140, 180, 184,

Bike the Sites tours, 159 Capital Steps, 360

221

Z)^«<^ cruise ship, 159

Day Ceremonies, 36

Veteran's

Violets Lock,

The

Company, 393 357 GNP Comedy, 361 GNP's Scandal Tours, 159 Kennedy Center, 356 Mark Russell, 360 Menasha Ridge Press, 399 Fitness

Ford's Theatre,

400

Virginia Railway Express, 168 Virginia suburbs (Zone 11),

269

Visitor Information Center, 172-73, 184

Voice of America (VOA), 140, 153, 180,

184,211-12

National Coalition for the Homeless,

Warehouse Theater, 357

Warner Theatre, 357 Washington, D.C. arriving, 93-99 geographic overview, 100-102 getting there,

33-39

maps, 8-9, 20-22, 95 street layout,

when

100—2

29-33 Washington and Old Dominion Railroad Regional Park, 395, 396 Washington Circle, 102 Washington Convention Center to go,

cabs and shuttles, 9

event calendar, 88-89

117 National Theatre, 357 Odyssey

III,

158

Rock Creek Park Horse Center, 401 Rock Creek Tennis Center, 394 Shakespeare Theater, 356 Smithsonian Institution, 173 Spirit Cruises,

158

SuperShutde, 94, 99

Tourmobile, 135 Virginia Railway Express, 168

Warner Theatre, 357 Washington Convention Center, 90

Wharf Seafood Market, 104 Wheaton, 255

lodging within walking distance, 49,

WherefWashington Magazine,

90-91

White House Easter Egg Roll, 33 Fall Garden Tours, 36

lunch alternatives, 91-92

maps, 84-87 overview, 90

Information Center, 165

parking, 91

sightseeing,

Red

Spring Garden Tours, 33

Line, 91, 164

website,

Whitetail,

90

Yellow Line, 91, 164, 165

1

09

213-14

400

Wholesalers, 45

Washington D.C. accommodations, 45

William Shakespeare's Birthday, 33

Washington

Woodrow Wilson House,

Flyer,

99

Washingtonian, 109

Washington Monument, 139, 140, 181,

181,

141, 154, 164,

185,236-37

Wooly Mammoth, 357

184,212-13 Washington National Cathedral Flower Mart, 33

Washington National Zoo, 108, 140, 164 Washington Navy Yard, 139, 14 1, 142, 180,

186,246-47

Ziebold, Eric, 254, 257

Zones, geographic,

7,

8-27

Zoo Guide for Disabled

Visitors,

108

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From the publishers of The Unofficial Guide® to Walt Disney World® 'indispensable"

"A Tourist's Best Friend!'

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— Chicago Sun-Times

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The Top 10 Ways Ttie Unofficial Guide to Wastiington, Can Help You Have the Perfect Trip:

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totally objective

that's candid, critical,

for value

Hotels reviewed

quality

plus secrets

for getting the lowest possible rate

20 nightclubs reviewed in detail

than 90 restaurants

ranked

guide to Washington's cultural

of your time

the

with helpful hints for

sights

historic

can watch your

inside story

at

Everything

quickly

get

to

to

including complete details

easily

the

gardens, plus the

exploring Washington's parks

Tips

best places to play golf

places

best

souvenirs,

for

to

out

boating,

tennis,

bargains,

eclectic

haute couture

imports,

with your kids

Proven strategies for enjoying

of your business

the

to plan

Advice

trip

Get the unbiased truth on hundreds of hotels, restaurants, attractions, and more in Unofficial Guide to Washington, D.C— the resource that helps you save money,

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save time, and

An Cover design by Michael

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make your

Unofficial

Freeland.

the best

trip

it

can

be.

Guide

Cover photo

©

Gabriel M. Covian/Getty Images.

ISBN 0-7645-7557-0

ISBN 0-7645-7557-0

51699

U.S. $16.99

CAN

$24.99

U.K. £11.99

8th Edition 9

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