E71w KNITTE~S
BOOK ,0/
FINISHING TECHNIQ1JES
-
NANCIE
M.
WISEMAN
-
CONfENT\
Woven Shou ld cr Scam s • 70 Shon-Row Shdping in Preparat ion for T h ret-Needle Bind Off • 72
One- Row Buttonhole (HonwtHal) • I 14 Yarn-Over RUHonhole • I-Cord-Loop Runo nho le
T h ree-Needle Bind Off for 'shu ulders • 75 Kirche ner Stitch Sea ms • 77 Grafting Live Stitt.hd (0 ust-On or Bou nd -Off Srirdlt"S • 80
Crochel-I..oop Bu((onho les • 122 Bu tton ho le Worked in Croche!
l
I NT RODU C TION
•
• 125
ButtOnhole Stitch to Finish Buttonholes • 126
Patch l ot..:ket Sc.m s 81 Inset Pocket $c;Ims • 8)
Double Central Docrcase (SI 1,
7
Borde r • l 24 Vertical Buttonhole
118 120
K2tog, 1'550) • 41 NANC I E'S F I N I S H ING
SEC RETS CA ST ONS
9
Long 'Ta il CaH On • Knim'd·On Ca,<'( On
10 12
Cab!e Cast On • 1'1 Picot Cast On • ! 6 C hai ned C.w On J8 Tubular Ca.st On 20 Provisional Ca~r On I NC R EASES
•
PICKING SELVAGES
• 8
Kni t in From and Back of", St itch or HaT Increase • 2;Make One: J nnt',1~t' t~ll ) • JO
D ECREASES
J4
Knit "l;'v() Togethcr (Kltog) ;\J1J Purl li . . o logcrht'T (P 2wg) • 3~
Slip, Shp, Knit (SSK) .md Slip) Slip. Purl (SSP) • 37 ( :cntral Ch:lin Detrc.ue (eel)) • )9
•
48
49
Traditional Bi nd Off 50 Knit Two "logt'thC'f Bind O tT • 52 GtJ.fting or KilChel1cr Stitch Bi nd
•
60
•
B ORD E RS , BA N DS , AND FI N I S H ES • 9 1
Iwo altd T h ree Sm ch I-Cord Bind Off, Also Known as Appli ed I-Cord • ')6 Picot Bind Off • 58
Starting Yarn fo r SeJming at Cast-On Ed ge • 6 1 Starting a N ew Picce of Yarn with Seamin g in Progress • 62 Woven Sea ms • 63 Garter Stitch Scams • 68
STITCH ES
iL ,
alT • 54
SEAMS
Up
86
To Work • 88 Picking Up Stitches o n a Bound-Off Edge • RH Picking Up Stitche.s on an Edge WIth Rov.,:" ofKnining • 89 Picking Up Stitches on an Edge WI th DenC"a~e.~ • R9
Slip Stitch at Begtnni ng of Every Row • 44 GJner S!I[ch Selvage., wi dl Swckinct((' Sritch • 46
B I ND O PFS
26
32
43
Double Setd Stiuh Selvage
24
lZaiscd [ncrca.<;('
•
"
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ODDS AND E NDS
WORKSHEET I
BUTTONH OLES.
INOEX
Two-Row l3unonhole (Horizontal) • 1 t 2
128
LH Blocking • 134 Sweater and Yarn Storage
H e m ~ • 92 Fo ld ed o r He mmed Nockbands • 94 Kni f{ed-On Suuon Sand s • 96 Sewn-O n BUllon Sand s • 98 Z i ppers • 100 A tr~lChed I-Co rd • 102 Slip Srrrch Crochet • l04 Single Croch et • 106 Reverse SlI1glc Crochet or C rab Stitch • 108
III
•
Joi ni ng New Yarn wirh Kn itti ng in Progress • 129 Weaving In Ends • UO Reinfo rc ing Shoulder, • 13 1 Knincd Shoulder Pads • 132 Flar Kniuing Ve rsus Cireul:1.f Knmi ng
•
136
138
Planning Your Kn itting and Fin ishing WORKS H EE T
JT • 140
Delcrmining Increase. D evease. :lIld BUHonholc PIJ.cement R ES OURCES
•
BIBLIOG RAPHY
143 •
143
ABOUT T HE AUTHOR
144
•
145
•
11\11 RODUCTION
HE TE(; H !'f I QUr.S in rhi ~ book will give you everythin g you need to nnil;h yOllr kni{led safm ~ ntS perfectly. MallY of them <.:an be iQund in ot her book s. hOI her!.'" you'll fi nd an explanation uf the be'neIll ~ and the Jrawba<.:ks C'flch [echniqw;,. in addition ro h()w [(l work it. Mo&, of rhe Icchniquel> are referenced for kni tted SWI.":!ters, bur you' l! fi nd thai mall y of rhem also appl:-- (0 lIfghJm . sc:a rv~s , or ;IUY other knmed itc:.m. lr doesn't
or
tnJrr('f whethe r you are
Doing tht' prelllllI11ar)' work or fi nding the right cast o n. innc;LS<'. decrease, ,lnJ C.;tS 1 ott willlmkc your k ni tt in~ more enjo}'ablc and the fini-ll hed ga rment .1 joy 10 we.. r. You nliglH al!'o wam to c:xplore some of' (he tcchn iques in I h t' book th.u you h:l l.'C' never u~('d. At tht"" bm.:k of the book is a worksheet 111.11 )'OU ca n photocopy 10 hel p you pb n you r sweater; on II ~·o u can rt'cord \\hac caHoon and ca.~ t -off s h a pio g and s~aml> you will be \Ising, Read (hrough rhe: tech OJqu~·} , fi nJ the o nc(, : th,u fit your needs, :md illl ill fhe bl,mks o n dle worksheet. T his IS Jlso a good plact"" ro ke(,p track o f row~ ;lI1d H\;l k(' ;mr notcs ncC"essary. If you plan your finj.\>hing befort: .\·011 5(:m the garm ~ n t, atl ((lges ~ ill h,\\c ,he sa mt- sc!\'age-if a :.dva ~t' is used-and all bands will bl;"" worked WI ,h fhe sa me merhod, You'll h~ duill ed to see how much hCH('r yom garment s ~o IOgedle! when you pian in advanc(' for thl." fi)li,s hed produce
NANC lE'S HN ISIfJ G SECRET'
•
w ve long ends Wht'l l you cast on, so
yOu C:l ll
Never trim an c nJ u n!il you're sure you're
for a
11 m
CAST ONS
later u s~ rhem fo r se~ m in g, goi ng
10 u.~e
OU HAVE to start yum knitt i.llg in so me \V,lf, and casring 011 is th e ......ay to get sritchc:.~ on
it somewhere
If you absolutely h.w: 1;lli~hin g . don', w.air umil aU ,he piet.es are l
right on e fo r (he projcct at hand. The foJJo wi!: g
,
instanr gr"Olli hGu jon and succe..s.\· Make your sw.uchcs large enough, at least Hinche$ square" so thaI YOlL ,;;;:m use them f l) e,x pcrim enr wi lh fini shin g tcchn iq\lcs such as picking up stitches o r 10 decide {he ryl~ of b.md you wa nt 10 wo rk at gll o n em edges. Be Slire to hind off yo ur .~\V Jtches and keep them . You can .1150 u rry rh~m with rou whm looking for b UHOll$ if nceded. If yotl always work ;III of your fini shing in the sa me order, you' ll know exacrly where to go (0 find the ends if you ever h avc to rip pan of the ga r~ men t out for ~o me reason. Sre:lm alld moisture :Irc your h l'~t friend s fo r bloLkillg. Don't b~ :lfr,lid ro
uS{" them. If you've h:ld to work w ith
J.
StiK h or rwo over dnd over ro get a tech nique
co rre" , and rhe yarn i ~ wool or a wool blend, drop ~ome w
10
shrink it back u p. 1n genera l, ..... hen the st itches aTC'
kni t over and over rhey ~rret(.h OUI and look
•
\'CTY
l oo~e .
When you discover 311 error in J stirch pane rn ;l few rows b:ICk in YOllr kni ning ,md YOll Il\ in k tint il will be oka)', o r thar no Olli' wi ll nOlice it ,
C:lSI-O Il
(CO) Icch-
niq u e~ arc rhe OC$t known and most popular m ethods. T he)' ate all u sefu l. b ur
neck b:Hhh before yOli sIan the sleeves. It wili ler you begin to see what rhe fin i\h~ produCt is ~o ing 10 look like. Srn:lll fC'w;uds in sm.1.l1 srep s bring
•
knitting needle. '1 here are so ma ny
h.-chniq ues for casting o n th ... t sometimes if j) hard to d loose (he
~eam.
sun. W h r:n the body i ~ don e. work ,ht: shoulJ e r S<:3 m ~ 3JId (be fro m or
•
r OUT
n Ol all in lh e sallle wa)'. You must co nsider where to use them and ,he final
d rce! Ihey will lu ve 011 rhe finis hed item . If YOli choose wisely, you sho uld Always be s~ li sfied with rhe way your cast-un ed~es look. \When ea.~l illg o n for kn it o ne, purl one ribbing. cast
all
a.n even
Il utl;l b er
of sm ches. O n the wrnng side, \'vu rk (purl one, knit one) to rh(" I::ISI t WO s.itt.:h~, p url tWO . On the figh t ~jde, kn it f",\'0. (purl o ne, knit o ne) to the end. This si"e~
. •
rou ~ o nc- kniHti rch seam al lo\>.".t!1<.:e at both t'nd~ of the rib billg . Weave (he seam o ne stitch in at horh end s for a pc-rfect sC'aJn and no imeuuption in (he rih pattern. (Sec ~ Se::Jm.~ in Ri hhing," pase (,(1.) For kn it two o rra!'.
TWO ,
pu rl
twO
ribbin g, ca~ t o n a m u ltiple of
fOll!
st itches pJus
On th e wrong side, work pu rl aile, (kn it two, purl nwu) across, end
purl one. O n (he righ t side, kni r one, work rhe knir cwo, purl [wn ribbing aeross the row, and end '''nh knit olle. C otHillue rib in establi shed p.Hrern.
Weave (he sea n\ o ne st it ... h in at both. ends fo t:l perrec( se;\1ll and no inrerru pfioll in rhe rib panern . tS~'c "Seams in Ribbi ng." page 66.)
Thr slip /mOl ,uuntJ m 11 u;tch wiJl'II working tiny ufrbe em f-un ,,,dmiqun o:upr thl' tllbuUIJ' ()T p rovisional ,-,Iff on wh(f( the slip Imot jJ part of thr Clwhn chain. N OTE:
don't leave ie. You're prnb ably going to wish yo u Iu d rip ped it o u t the fi.:rther awa}' yo u gel from ir . Go back an d iiI: if when y OU find it. You' ll never like the 5WCtHer if yo u don'£.
,
"
Slingsho t method : 1'....lake 3. slipknol and p lace th c loop on Ih(: right needk YOu can use tWO neeJles hdd rogerher io your righ l h:md to make this cast on looser. 'fhey don't havc £0 be the s:lmc size; rhe ribbing needle and a sm.t.l.lcr n ~d lt' will work wdl. O r you C
LONG TAIL CAST ON THI S IS th~ mOOI common and versatile cast o n used by knitters. l 'he n'sul t j~
ntS!
a nice- looking edge if th~ caH-on row is uscJ a~ the righ' side .md the ro"\' worked ;$ a wrong-side JOW, l x>r a bind off wirh a Sim ilar look, see "Tr:.lliLr;nnaJ Bind OfT" o n page 50 .
~:
caSt on, but d on't forget
I~
-, .
£0
ch ange b2ck [() rhe smaller nccdle to work the ribbing.
Ho ld the rail. md the workiol$ yarn with your Idt hand 01)( and across from rhe righl h and hold ing the knitting nertl le. Hold the .~ Ii pk not 0 0 Iht' right nt"«l.le with your right index lln ger. losert YOtH left ul um b and lefi: inJex fi nger hc-twccn rhe rwo p j ece~ of yarn from
tmwp. Separare (he yams, ,md ror:lle
yuur lefl hand up wirh your ~n get s toward the ~ ky. You'll not ice that
~ 'j ,.
:1
loop
fo rmed on your thum b. ' Using the neeJle in you r right 1"'!l1d , go under lile
loop of yarn on the lerr r1wmb and then over rhe ya rn on your lefl index ~n '
•
gel and bl ing [hal yarn through the luop. Let go o f rile yarns dod tighten gell ~ d y, btH do not pull 100 right. Repe.H from · I'M the n u rnbe.J of s(itchC"$ needed.
l to I{ t o"lg T,}' :'''' Slingshot Med loc Om On with Garter '>titch. Stockinette Stitch, lind Rlbbong ~
Benefits •
• • •
C m Ix u~ t'd to ~ t:lrt vinuJlly .1 ,), knitting pro ject. F...sy (('I cxCt.Ult', h m H',m in n m ust be controlled . Two \.V;l .\ ~
\ 0 work L,hT (m: ~ Iin b~h ot method .lnd rh umh method . '«'orh well \\ ill, .• 11 wcigh t" of yarn.
, iIii
/
To bsll 01 yam
/ -~ - " I .'
/!/ ..j('TO (vI end /
r
\1 ~ -
,
I
Thumb met hod : fl-h ke a slipk no t and ptH.e the loop o n the tigh l needle, l e a'v~
Dmwbadu
• •
ing a lung tail. Wil ~d the lail end around r our left fl1IIm b, frOll1 to back. Wr.tp
ReqUire) long CIl,)ur.h u ti to work ,he cast o n: if yo u rUIl om yo u
the ~,lTl\ fro m {he
bl.ll over your righ t ind ex finge r and h old it tightly in :-,our
h.we' to , [.tn over.
h:llld . ~ lns('n The nee
CorIT'Lt pbcemclH (It til(' r arn in your hl\ger:. is e,o;scmial.
righ e ind C'x fin ger, WrJp the run from th,' ha ll OlieT the need le .1 ~ if knitting a
Ea_~~' (0
stitch . Pull the y;un through Ihe Joup 0 11 yo u r thumb to form a st itch ,lOa elru?
\\ork
(~~t ·()n cd ~t'.
thl ~ C.1St
on wo tightly.
fo IlO\\ C'd by \t()ckil\~tI~ stitch. will not li e Aat j it Will
roll IOw.mi rhe- knit
.~I de- .
the loop off the lett needlC'. Tiglllt"n the loop 01\ th e righ t n..:cd le by p ulling on ,he {;~i1 t'lld . Re pear fro m' fOT tIlt' n um ber or stj,ches need ed . 10 wI end
To ball of yam
To Work For both or d l~ mc d \Od~ d escribed bduw, medSli fe out the tail c~ tim :l(lll~ abom I" for edch stitch you w ill he m;tking plus about 12" extr:J. for c;lils. This i .~ a ro ugh eliti nure: with hulky yarn
gering ram il might
b~
Ihis m igh t nut be q ui re e no ugh; with fin .1 hi l (00 milch .
"
,
., ,"
<> • •
KNITTEO - ON C AST ON
r
70 W"o,-k
Make- a slipknot ~nd placc on left kn iuing ncedle .• Knit imn (he stir....h nn rhe lef( need le as you m.mnally wCluld wumml dropping t/J(' rr;u h offtlu u-fi nutiU. Place thl': new slitch from the nglll nc:c::dJ.:- o nto the left nCl"dlc, hnldi ng ncedk~ point to poin !. Rl"move dll': right nee-dIe and repeat from· fOf desired n umber
~ very c.ommon ClS l on because it feels like norm al kni ttin g.. h vdcics the cable caSt o n (p:oge 14) bu r .he effoct is q uite different. T he loose r ed ge creared at the bonom somerimes ge"lS slightly distoltoo ncar thc edges where rhe sea ms are PUt tOgerher. T he rrad itiu nal bind off is rhe be.sr ma~h (sec page ;0).
TH I S IS :iI
JUS! slightly from
~
,-
, ! ~-
of ~{i {ches .
'
~-
- ~~ -
, ,
,-
,
..
Knit into st!lth.
Piaee new stot(h on left needlE'.
~
L to R: Knitted ust On IMlh Carter Sti tch, Stockinene Stlld', and Ribbing
TIP : Enll1rgt .hl' loop olthe new .•·tireh to
'-
full geml, until ititrh
il 110r17l111 Ji:u,
1t1I1Ju I t
lueph1f,
Miil'r
lrIUiMI Oil
fQ
piau on left nudk
till rrirdJeJ the san/(.
E Benefits I-;';Isr to (eme-milec. Can be u~cd 10 ~r:J.n an)' p rojoct, Ot ro add srirches wi rh kni n iog in progn~.~~.
F.lirjy d.l~ric; Silt' of ~Iil, h ("s (·,m be comrolil"d easily.
•
Drawback,
o
~ ~
!
\'G"orks wd l \\ ill! all weights of ya n\. Borh ~idt'.~ look exactly lhe same. so it doesn't maHcr what row you work first w h ef\ bt'ginni ng to k ni t.
t
t.
Can strt'rc.h Out of shape t'
Ii
,p :~
, "
-
I~
,-
Ip , I,
,,
CA."
ON.'
To Work
C ABLE CAST ON
Mdke a , Ii pkno f .tnd p lace on lefr need le. Knif imo the sti rch a.nd place rc.mlring sti leh o n left na dJt' by inS('rl illg rhe len need le imo rhe st itch fm lll rhe
TH~
[neE of thi.s (;a.~ ( on will al wa~ look J.nd r~ma it\ very nun. The nCSt row worked :lncr the (.~ I on i ,~ a righI -side- row, For marching bind oa~ sec
right srd e of tile loop, or by your eight thumb, Wilholl( dropping ,.ri tch offleft
need le. (See "' Kn inw-On Cm O n/ pagc 12.) a[nsen rjght
KTradj ,io na..l Bind Off. ... page 50.
nt~edlc berweo!n
two st itches on len- need le, w rap prn around [he need lc ",. if to kn_t. pull
dle !lew loop th rough to ,he I~onr. p lolce the new Stilch on rhe lo:f, ne«l lc :a
•
directed above. Do nm drop any ~ titc.hcs ofT [he left n ~dle. Repeal from ' fo r desired number of Mitehes. W h e.n worki ng the
tim
fOW,
if the cast-on slirchcs
look loose, knit into rhe back of eaeh sti rch 10 tigh tt'll chern up.
l to R: cabl,; U.S! On with
G~rter
Stitch. Stockinette Sr.tch, and Ribbing
,-
... Insert n eedle between [We '>I1t
Benefit.<
Place new stitch o n left ne ed le.
C;.lrl hI;' lJ)('d for .. l1"ltlg on )ritchcs wit h work in progrcss.
•
•
T I P: En!drg~ rh~
Can be IIst'd tor ,ome buuonholes. Work~
well
I ....
ith dense stlH.h pam:rm thaI don't h a~ much stretch. ;t I1C\ U .lttd uniform appea rance wh en execured
loop 0/ the ,,~w uizeh tv II1l1iu It M/i~1" to p!.Jet' 011 left IIl'tdb. Pull gmt" IInri/ fritch iJ nom/at HU. kuping r~nsiOIl on ,1IJ jtiuh~f th~ 111m,.
Crt":ut"'> an ~dg(' with \\ull t"\'cn (ells'on.
•
\\'lork~
well wit h
;\\1
weiglH) uf ya m .
Can bc used tnt .,11 c.ur-on t'dgc:.: hl' Glrcflll OO{ to work (00 tighdy.
Drawbacks (:Ib[ on IS not VCt,\ d .u.w.; lends bt' d(:'~itab(t".
• •
'4
I;'..t\j" to \Iurk c.J..\1 Oil tQ';J
to ~
firm and demt:, but dur may
righdy.
FIJgt' ot C.IH on will bt' lif-ht, hlll tht' sritch(:$ o n rile n~t'dlC' will
..
,
P.
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, .. , ~
I)ICOT CAS T ON Drawbacks A
O}.; li -S" IT C H
Pi{' or~
pl.ttt"d dos(' togelher can cause tbe (;
picot will m a k~ the C;1~ t un vt'ry c].l ~ ti c. but will show only
i;lightly. Maki ng a picO( with morc than one sti tch will kave a Llf{!er loop that can be charming nn baby itC'nls, on 3. coll ar, or on the lOp of
to
pre-
vC'nt a. ruffled ed ge. When used with matching pico t bind off (See "Picot Bind Off" on PdgC 58) , alJ edges will h:wc: the same elasticity dod look.
ro ll tow";1 rd the knit side. 13 kcs more than u.mal amou m of tim<:. Take~ more than usual amou m of yun.
To Work
l 10 R: Smell! Pi~ nt ~ t O~ \\;~ h CIInel Stitdl Stockinette Slit~ h, dnd RibbIng
For smaJl picots: Cast on three ~ t it <.:h e$ using cJble cast on (see page 14), "knit fWO s ti lC h c~, bind uff ont" .lot irch (one ~"ffial l picot made). pJace remaining stitch on right need le b.Kk on lell nectiJ<- 3$ if to purl . CISI on twO st itches usi ng cable- caM o n . Rt"pc";!.t fro m " fur half th e n um bt"r of stitches needed for the cast Oil . Next [Ow: " ~ Kn i t first stit ch o n need le, pi ck up th<- loop on top of the PICOt llSl1lg the left needle fro m back to frOnt, purl the new stitch through the
• L to R: ldrge Pic.ot Cc.lt On with Cdrter Stitrn, Stockinette Stitdl, and Ribbing
fro m of the loop. Repeat from ''' , end kn it one. Begin pattern or ribbing on nex t row.
• I~
Bel/eftts •
rtlgc- is d .)....;ric. OC'wrativc, yet useful. Works well with ribbi ng or ganer sti tch. P lr.:or~ ('an \':l ey in site from o ne stit ch [0 m.lOy stitches. Tht' more Slltdlt"~ , ell(' target lh l:' loop of th e:: pico(. CJ.11 D':- cas,ly ad;lpre::ci ro chan gt" number of st it ches bern'cen pi cots. hther ,id~· ta ll be m ed
Cl) t -Oll
\X/orb be-~r with Ji gh t-
16
(0
roc::d ium-weighl yam s.
I~
Iii
IE
,. •
(ast on three stitch es. tnse rt needle for firs t knit stitch.
Knit two 5t it,he~ . Bind off one stitch.
Pick up loop on top of picot. Purl nl!VlJ stitch
I ~.
For larger picots: C ast on fO llr stirches llsing cable t:.lSt o n (see page 14), "knit
l~
place remJlOing ~t i t( h un right nee-dIe- back un ldi: needle" as if to purl . C1St on
I'
I' I~
two srirches, bind ofT one, knit one st it(.h , bind o ff o ne (large picot m.. de), six stitches , repeat from" for de..~ ired n um ber o f srj t(;ht's, e.nJ by plac.ing
re-mmning Hitch o n right needle- back on 1e-11: needle. Be_gin p:'Htt"rn or "ibbing on next row.
'7
C HAINED CAST ON Drawbacks • •
is genera lly used to uc:Ho!' a \ c mpor.lry C3.'11 o n ; se~ ~ Tuhu l a r CISI 011" (p.:agc 20) or Provisional Cast O n" (pagC' 24). If le ft in. i, will rC~ lIh in a hrm cdSt'. If ,he chain is fO hc removed , as in the provision;!l casl o n, the loose MiH:hes thar remain m u.<;t bt: pl.lCKd o n 3 knini ng needle to
TH JS 'f ['.C":H N H,l UL
Removal of dlJitl must lx- dont" carc:full r CaSI -on edge. foll owed or ;)tockine:lle stitch, will not l;e A.I.t : it wiiJ roll toward tbe knit Side. Takt'"5 more tillle.
k('c p them from unraveling. A border of some: SOrt GI ll then be added; work in the o ppmitt' d irection of rhe knining. If you arc using rhe d lai n cast 0 11 ;u: a simple edge. begin p,lCtern or rihbing after cast on i.~ complete. If the caSt on is workcxl in th(' m:tin yarn fol. lowed by Slockincltt' ~ t i «.h , .he edge ""illl1ot lie Rat. Tht' edge wilt reqlli lc J hordC'f. such 3<; ~in~lt' crochet or :m I-cord oogc: !O kt'cp it from ro Ui ll g co ,hekllil side o f the work. T he firs t row is the right side of the knming.
To Work
US('" the required need le:: si7'c, approp r; ~te yarn (wa~tt' yarn if th " chair, i~ IU be rcmoved , o r the: ac(uaJ kninin g y:tm jf it i~ to s(ay itl), and .J crochC" 1 huok
•
similar in si7,c to the kni ni ng needlc.s. Make' J ~I ipknol in th e y::trn ,1,11d p!.l.:e on the c:roch~·t hook. ~J:-Iold the needle and yarn in Ih e lerr: h:md, and Ihe crochet hook with (h~ l>lipknot in rhe right h.lnd as tbough crochetil1g. Ph.:e (he necd le' on lOp or the ydr ll held in the left hand. Holding the hook ovcr the n«
l to R: Chained Cast On With Ganer Stitdl, StockinF.ne SlItr.h. i1nd Ribbing
Non::,: Whtntvt'r ycmare imtrul f(d w 11Jt' 'i/ltlste.v'lrn~for a aut on, I(J~ tlligheto nudill1n.-lwigbe (arum Y(11"1'I b('Cltust: tht cotton Jam wilt tlot Itllllf: Imu jlah of color bthmd u'/un)'C1I l"(mOI" it. wrhm tbe clJain iJ fin ishtci cut ytlm and /i'11,11 off Tu a Imot ;11 the tnil so you know from which md to remOIJe t/u chain.
'~ ,
Clochel a chain over lOP of knining needle.
-•
Cut the: }'Jrn . remove .he loop from rhc- crochet hook and pull the yarn rhrough ito Tic a knOI in lhe end ()f this t::til so you know from whi<.h end to
Bfflfjits mccl a ~ I h(' $l3 tt of the tubul.u Gl SI on .-Hld the provisional ClI$1 on. \'(/()rk~ well wi th .111 weights of ~-:ltn . l·,:" il'r tha n crocheting a sep:U;He chdin and rhen picking up ~ t i . c h e,\ illtu the hack of Ihe ch:li n, as usually recommc nded whcn ,hi .~ Icchniq\le b \l~ed .
•
rCOlOVt" the chain .
Ix.'~ t
J8
•
'9
TUBULAR CA ST ON THI S T[ C H ~ I Q UE leaves beautiful CI.S{-Ofl ed ges. T he ext r:L ebsciClry of th e casr on m a ~es (ti e garment fit bett..":r. It j ~ wonderful lo r sweare rs th at fall;'lt the hi p, where rhe US I on needs to be loose su as nor to hug the hod)'. Using Ihis caSi on and the Kitchcner stitch bi nd off (set page 54) r~ lIl t.s in £Ill' 1I10S1 profc:ssional-Iooking caS I o n and bind o ff you can u.~e.
~
', ,,
To Work
fr;, I~
Ii ~
lri
I."
'.
\'{fj th needle si·l.t' req uired for ribbing. and cotto n run in a co ntrasti ng <.:010(, wo rk cha ined <.:.ut on (see page 18) for half the number of req ui red stitches, plus ol1e. With the mll in colo r yarn, k nit O1\e row, purl on~ row, knit o ne row. With th~ purl siot' facing, ·pu rl n r~ l stitch 011 kni ulIlg need le.. insert thc right need le from (OP 10 bonom under purl bar of main color b uried in the contrasTi ng colo r yarn th ree rows below. Place (h is ~I i rc.h on (he le ft n~dJe by insert ing rhe need le from fro t)! 10 oock lmo (he st itch , ,md knit the stitch in the from of the loop.
~ ~
i! Lto R' Tu bular
u..~
On "'llh C.-)rter Stitch, $tockJnette ShIeh, .and Ribbing
Ii ~
E
-
, ~.
PIck up
n~1
\ tit( h flom loo p in contrasti ng yam
Benefits •
Repe.lt from ' , end
Rounded edge' (ncmblc::. edge found on designer garments. Very cb~ t ic cd~('. pt'rfect for ribbing at Ih t' hi ps. Can be- lIM"d 10 stan an y knittl;':d picU' u.~ing k ni £ one, purl o nc I ibbing. \'('ark. well w ir h aU \Jffi weights except bulky.
with pu rl onc .il nd no loop to pick up (O( ;mother knit
.H itch. On nt'xl rnw. work kni t o ne, purl o ne ribbing a~ estab! ished (this it: consid ered the first ro w). Or wor k d c..\ired patte rn on fi T\! row. If
Dmwback, more dun mUJI .unoun! of time.
\X'ork) beSt with knit one, pu rl one ribbing, bm can be useJ wid1 stock· ineUt" \tit.:h and o( h~r sritch pan e rn s. D()(' ~ not wo rk wd l with bu lky yarns; makes edgt' [00 th ick, .. nd c::J. u sc'_~ it to A.Lrc out. \VW " lwa}'$ end with an odd number of ~t i t ch e ~, meanin g [he re will be Ol. knit ~ rit ch
10
,H
b tl[h ends with tht' right side facing you.
p.utem
requires an eVt'n number of $ l i Khc..~, you Cdt' makt' up for the loss of tht' sti tch aft('f the ribbing i$ com pler
' Ia k e~
y OUI'
~
..
\
,'~ ,
"" Afn:r the hh! rO\\ is com pkO,(Odo you l";ln rc:rnovc
chai n startin g al the e nd with the kn ot (sec
"' 't'ote :~
I n C',
page I S). Yo u Will have to
pick o ut (hc chain fo r Ihen
ch,li n . U nrJ.\'d the-
;l
O Ut .
By t'~,~~' 1
m eaD il w ill pull our .~ Iow l y and w ill
need (0
nOI
be CUL If {he cha in docs no t rip Out
easily and you mus l cut It ro n: m ove iT, then y Oll
made
a ll
c::(ro r in makin g dIe chain or in
pi cking up the knit ~ ti tch es from bdow tht'" chain . The Colst on will nm hold togelher you have l :.IST
[0 Cut
ii
the chain somewhe re in Ih e
on ro re mo ve it. You w iU hJ ve
LO
wo rk
the cast o n again ro corr«:1 (h e error. It's better m r~;lliz.e (here is a pro blem now, before yo u've kn it rhe whole piece. Yo u wil! nOli(:e- th ar as yo u p ull [he
chain out , one of the stra nd s of the cooeL. sting ya m wi ll remAin in Ihe- middle of the "tube" of the ca~ t o n. If yo u'd Jjke
lO
put
knining ebstic thro ugh this tube. lie th ~
clastic
!O
th e cnd of the c ro(;h~t cha in that
doe~ no( have
the- kn o r and genrly pull it
through J ~ yo u H' m O\'e .he (:hain. T his is a
good ide;) if this cast on is used wirh eo li Oll yarn, as dlC rib bings in eollon ten d to stretch o ue W1lite Old,n 15 partially removed. Double strand of
red -eias\.~ a\ bottom \'llill be pu lled :nrw gh as c.hain i~
remcrveu
111
Mitch o r two, btll
should he easy to rip
il
i~
"'I'! Ii!
Tubular Cast On wi1h Knit One ( 1111 One Ribbing
ii
If you research th is tech n ique fur ther. yo t! w ill fin d d ireCf ions fo r wo rkIn g the tu bular c.J. ~ { on for k llir [\-\'0 , purl tw O ri b hing as well. T am
tleve-.f
~
•
p leased wilh the fini shed look v",hcn I've used th t ~ techniq ue
~
•
use it; the r.:fo rc ' don't recom me nd ir. Also , th e m.n ch ing bin d all 10 tb e kn ir t WO ,
t!
p url two
G tH
o n do
J..'i
so I prefe r no r to
it does for k ilit o nc-,
p u rl o ne.
Ii t! ~
Ii
-.
Ii ~
10
'"
E Ii
.. .
~
•
.' ·•
'j
I I, I
Iii. • II!.
PROV ISI ONA L CAST ON
II!:
To W,rk W ilh ne«:dlc ~ i 1'<: re qlli i"l~ fo r bod.~., work {he chai ned caSt o n (~.::c page 18) fo r ,he number of stitche.> requi red fo r hody after the ribbing is wmplered . Bt'gi n
on works well if you want (Q work your borde rs afl e r . he . . k ., T h· , · m,)' Ix because YOU aren't sure what type of bo rd er you swe,Hcr IS m. , , \.\-~ nt [(1 use or you're nor sure yo u h
Iii:
same. It is often e>ls ier for peop le to work a loo~er bind off {h
I!:
PROV I S I ONA L C AH
with t h~ right-side row of the p attern above the ribbing. Rem ove th e chain
yOll TO com rol or make adjllSmH:~nrS in the way the borde r fi tS' .\"(fhc n y(l~ a,rc
~
p utt ing the
IP'
SWCJ.l er
together, you
W OIl' t n O li et'
wheth er cvcrythlJ'g was kn ll
the same direction or not.
In
wh en the piece is fini shed. Yo u can remove tht" ehai l) aftee a fev..' rows of knit-
1Jir.
~
t!.
ring, hur you must place lhe stitches on a StiKh holde r or knitting nt:t'.Jlc until vou arc rcady La knit them . To re move the cha in , un l"3\'cI the crochel ch ain from the e.nd with lhe
. .
knot whi le pLK ing each stitch on the nl:t:d l ~ . Be careful to remove o ne chain :J. t
a rirue, so the koiu lOg doesn't u nrAvd. Begin border, keeping in m ind thar
if you were to incr~a se abov/;" the ribbing according
10
rhe paHern, yo u \vou ld
now decrease to thc desired number of sti tches and work the ri hbi n.g in th e opposi tc di reelion. Se<: (he wo rk, heer o n pagc 140 for ca lOllating ~ve n l y spaced de( rease~. Bind off I(losdy.
~
( L \0 R PW""''''t't;al
<~s\ 8n .\Mh Garter St ~ :..." ~tod. ne!\e Stitch
and Ribbing
~ Remove chilin one stitth ilt" tim e.
~
Benefits
.
be med whCl1 vou walll to add a comrasling nb o r border huCf, 10 work ~rl I-cord border, or {O remove the casl o n and pick up {he
e.ul
•
stitches 10 \vor k in the oppos ite d ircnioll . em .l.lso bl' u~ed for ,I finn edg~ if it is donc in the main color of
y. u n and i~ nO[ removed . \'(lorh well with .In weig.lHS of yarn .
Alternative Method to Work Chained CtlSf On
t.
Usiltg waste yarn , crocuer:1 loose chain of lhe same llLunbc-r of s( itche~ n ~cd ·
~
f t~
!i
Drawbacks •
£
l ..c...l\'e~ you one ~tit..:h ~h(lrt when rhe chain is removol
~
I.c .1.vc~ mon' than ll ~ual
~.
:unOUJH
of en ds to weave in .
..
ed for cas. on pl us a ff"\v extras. Fillish otT, ellt yarn, and tie a knol in the ya rn so yo u know fro m w hich end lite chai n sho uld hI!" removed. T u rn thc cham over, insert the right kn itting needle inlO WI;" loop on the b.1ck o f th e chain.
..
.
and knit on a sti tch. Repc-.n for a~ many stitches as n eeded . If the cluin beco me~ too liglll, ski p a chain if ncc.essasy. This will nor ruin the cast o n. It
is not necessary to redo the caSt o n jf [he chain is dis torted because lip
the wrong th read . It will need to be cut
-
n pped ou r.
Takt'; more than u mai amou O[ of tim e.
Knit 0 0
stitches in the the chilin.
bCKk of
Out
),O ll
p it-ked
w hen rem oved , not gently
Flont of (ha ln After Stitche", Hilvt' Been Pi cked Up
I
KNIT I
INCKEASES
to {.
It
~
"
,
FRONT AND BA C K
Of A ST JTC H OR BAR IN C REASE THI S
T:-J CR EAS[
ill easy co exec ute a nd ca n be used 'lIIywhere in a Imi n ing
proj ecr. However, thl: im:rease dOt'. . Lreale a little '·bar" (hat will show o n the
IUlit side. When workc:d fro m the knit sioe, the b,lf will Always be \0 the left of rhe sri lCh rh(' incrcase is made from. \X/orked on th e purl side, the bar will be on the ri~IH of Ihe stitc h u ~d 10 m :tke lilt": increa ~c w hen you look al il o n rheNCIlYASf.S, ALONG wilh dccrC'a.s~.ll ,
to c reare
~ lufX"
d ecreases u~ in g
J.
are ;ostrumc",:!.1 in knining
texture, :l nd dCl'ign. Combm ing
i nc re.a~~
1>~ific plan o r palte(R ca l\ resu lr in ~( i{<.:ht'.s
and
kn it on
Ji
E
AI the be.gil1ning of a row, you can wo rk the inc.Tea.'ic! on the nrSt or sec-
••
ond sr irch, dependin g o n whe ther yo u want one or {wo sti tches before the- ha l".
AI /he enJ of (h e rnw, make the incre.J...~C" on the seco nd stitch from rhe: end for
the bi;lS, or 1>li!ches iI'31 look lacy, or like- IIIC')' ,Ire moving :across rhe- surface of the: kn illi ng. There 3rt" v:u io us ways to do both. Jncredses wi ll be ('overed h r${.
I!
Mo..~t knitting p ;lt{nns ", .11 nOt [dl YOll what ty pe of inc rease to usc; the dirccrit"ln wil l j ll ~ [ ~ay Mincre,\se." Bur ch oosing the right incrcasc and u sing it
I!tT
rema in. fie su re to le:lve rhe sa me Ilum hc-r of ~ lilCh cs at ("dch end so t ha i hOl h edgl's will look the ~ame.
Eo
{he ;ncre3'OC. If ynu arc work ing [h e increase in rhe middle of the work to cre-
thro ugho ut yo ur work will make you r knitting look more even and consisten t.
1n so ..... e C'oISC5, rh~· incrC':Jse you ch oo.~e will hel p you wilh ,he fini ~hill g of the piece .IS wel l. Bd('1w. you'll fi nd the thrC'e m o~ ( commo n ways
(0
work in c (ea~es. W he n
you are n:qllired 10 make Increases :n both end s of the saml: row they should
be worked to mirro r eKh orher, ;0 that both ed gcs will JoJok the ~a tll (' afrer sc:ami ng. T hat's why it·s Im portant to know about righr-faring and left -facing in c[e;. ~. If fOl exa mple you were to ~I~ the '>;Illle m akl:-ont i n c rca ~e along bot h edges, d Ie slIfches along (he sea ms wQuld look d ifTere ni ;. fra .l>eamin g. lncteases fo r sh .aping ~ houJ d be worked 3 1 c:onsisu: nt inre rv.1is. For example, ('very fi gh t-side row, o r ("Very fO llrth row. This will help you keep tr ack of them , and it may
choose.
O ne dilemma \...i th increases.is w hen you art: im:rnlCted 10 increlSe even l),
over a certain number of stitches. In $O llle C;bC"$ it lS .I guc.~.~ing b'":t.J1le. or yo u end up domg it a couple of times 1.0 get it righr. See the wo rksheet all page 140 to help you c-.uculate th e placement .
011(" SlilCh (() rCIl):I in ,
to: II!to:
(If
on the third st itch fro m the end f or rwo .~rir(hC'$ to
If yo u are wOI"king ill a knit and purl pallctll . usC' a kni l .q ireh to CfC:ltc ate a s)'ml1lccriC":l1 de~ isn} make the first increa..«' on (he hfl'( .~ (i(ch to Ihc righ t
~
of <.entc:r and t h~ n .. ga in on the center stitch. \X/ hen work("d in (he body of the g.l rmcnt, the incre.lse ""ill nO( howc any eftect o n seaming or picking u p sti tches. Worki ng th is increase o ne or r.vo
• •
stit(:h cs fro m the e.dge of
J
g .. rm e nt will leave ;11 Ic ;:t~t a o ne-stitch ~C
allowan ce, w hi ch wi ll make .~e a min g and/or pICking up sri rch J:S e;:tsier.
to: ~
E
• •
~
~ ~ ~ ~
,6
knit SIde.
rnu~ases
a! leon and Rigtu Edge Wofked E-..ert Othef Row
L
S
.... . .\ < f ,
.:!II
To Work On the knit side: Knir info the d e sig n .ned stitch on the len n eedlc. bm d o lI o t dro p th e stitch off the Jen: n eed le. Move rhe right needle towolrd the back of dIe work, k'l it in to rhe b3ck of (he u m t' stitch , Drop rh e old st icch off the left needle, crearing £\l' 0 s ti tc h~s (COIll o ne sd tch,
... ,.
,
Incredses
ilt
left and Right Edge Wor~ Ev~ry Other RcMt in Garter Stitch. Yellow yam shows
I!
~.· ,i-· : ··t···'·'·r . " ~ · . ~'~ ~ · 9~ ' ·' - ' ·'·
•c
' ~ ' ~ ' - ' ·~ 9 - ' - ' - ' ·
~/" ~ ,<# ,",
"r# ." ,~,. ,
.
u'1Creases, which ale invsible. Knit into stitch but do not dro p it off left needle.
.,.'
. . . .. · •• .....·;.,' . . ' ;r~ r : ' . ' ......~ ... " . ' . I
....' . •
•
• • • . •
-.
. ' ,
•
Knit into boKk of same stitch.
Benefit, Can be used vin udJly anywhere in a kni ncd projeCt a nd
0 11
bOlh
the knit and purl side of the wo rk. Hdp~
you m,mh up rows whcn u,\ cd f()r sleeve: increases; the ba r
neat~d b~' \,irtll.tll~'
•
tbe incr....l.se will match on the: 1;\\10 edges of lh e sea m.
invisible when u.~d in a knit and purl pattern , especially
when wo rked betwee n a kn it ~{ i t c h and a purl stitch in rib bin g. 'X'ork\ with all weigh ts o f },.lfn . Increase 111 Purl on Pun SIde
Drawback, •
" Bar" (T(';ttcd hy the inerc:l!ie shows o n rhe righ t sid e of (he work.
O n (he purl side: Purl into rhe designared stitch o n the left needle, but d o nor
Rt'quiTl'~ d. ~titeh
d ro p Ihe- stitch off the left need le. MovC" the righ t n~d lc
(0
make the i n (J"eJ.~e., .so it ca nnot be subs,iIUred
to \V"d r d
the ba.ck of
for an increa."" rh.lt does not require a sritch . (See "Make One
the wo rk, insert ir into t.he h:lck o f rhe ~ l i t ch fro m lefr to right. and purl J.gain.
in nt'..}.'\(' { ~I) ."
D rop rhe:: old scirch ofT the le(1 ne::cd le.
p.lgC 30.)
RCXJuir{'~ ~p{'(" i,j l ca Te ;tf{'
(0 kCt'p "ha r" w ithin sam e' {:olu mn if increases wo rked on knit ,jnd purl side.
Pvlt into stlt<\"l but do not dlop il olf left needle .
Pv r! into back of sa me stitch.
if.!
MAKE ONE iNCREASE (Ml) TH IS I Ne RE M E is considered one of fh~ mo~ r invisible inuC:Jse5 3\·aillb le (0
kni w:n. It mUH be' wo rked between twO Sli(ch cs. \'{!hcn u1>ed one stitch in ffOUl the' edge it will leave d o llc· srirch scam
o r p icking up srlK hcs eJ.sier. Became il is virrually i n\'i.~ ih J ('. it will b areJy be set'" if lIsed an)'Whe re wichin (he work. It CJ.!\ be u sed in pattern sriu.:hes ~ well , b ut (.
I N C Il. As l <
~
To Work
II'! IO!.
to..:
•
Right cross male one: Used at the heg inning of the row. O n the knit (o r purl)
~
~id (": L Olan~
~
~
f!
I!.
IIJf' "rUlm irl% thrMd ~ b£lwttn tWO Jtitch,.J t!'at is wed til malt, tlJlJ incrc/J.St is TMIl, {l yllT11 ow r that didn I get mla1"gcd hy wrapping tht Yllm ar()ulId thf' right Iltt'd& in the previollJ row. IfJ()U knit t hli runnillg yarn In(o rrectly. if un" crtnu It hole .hat looJn j u.st l/ltt' 4 yarn ()wr.
NO TE:
th t ru nning t\nu d rh.:!( co n nects the st itch itL~t worked :tnd [ hl~
Stirl.h fO bt- worked on {he Ictt need le. Tusen the !efr kllittin~ needle from hK k to from unJer t he runn ing yarn . Knit (or purl) into the fra il( of the stitch fa
-
twist it do~.
•
~
I! Left Cr~ M,, ~e One on Left Edge
Righi Cross Make One on RighI Edge
Insert lelt needle Irom back to Iront through "funning thread;
I!! ~
Bmefits Cre',J,{('$ ,10 invi.,iblc i\1lrt:l$C. 1>0<--,> not invl)ivc lUlother stitch . bm mu". Ix- made bct"\vt':C1l two stitches. l"wu versio ns of t hi ~ innc.Hc, one rhat slants to the right an J o Hf {h,}( ~I an h to
tbe leoft.
,11"('
.m Irror i nugc ~ of each other.
Left c ross make a ile: U~cd .n tht e nd o f rhe' row. On the k nit (Ot pu rl) side: Locate rlie' running threa d that m nnccts 1111;' stitch
I!! I'!.
Knit into hon l of stit
JU St
worktd and tho! stitch
bt: work.t:d o n (he left n«
'•
I!!- •
{(l
(0
b Jck
und('r the ru nn ing thrc-J.d . Knit (or purl) into the b:'lck of the .)[i(ch to twist it d o sed .
CJ n be u ~nl vio\.ully .1n),where.H wd l as 01\ either rile knit o r th e
purl sldf of thl;' work. \'(i"otks with all \\ cights o f ~"J.rn .
Dl'I1wbacks
f!;-
III ln~rt left needle hom Ilont to bdCk through "running Ihre(ld."
\iu,l he \\orked hetween tWO stitches. Must he workt'd c~rdu Hy ~o th.lI a hole is not furmed whe re increase j, mad(·.
Rcqui rt'~ {"xtrJ. altenr ion to make sure right- and Ic.ft ·slanting versions
or in ... rC'ol ~ arc m:r.d.e ill ( unen end o f needle. \'x' he,l med row (lhOl'c row, it w iB not be :IS in v l.~ i h lc. and may "tICker
p..-
II
t-i
I I
the l·dge. Prcfcf
'0
...-
-.",
I\;nit into back o f Sltt
If tith er m e!llOd resu lts in II ho le, remove the new 'S titch and work ag.t.i n. I:-lole will occur if tunning thread wa$ pic ked up wrung o r wton g side wa~ k ni t.
l
I
ITo Work
i
RAI SED IN C REASE
Righr raised increase (used tU beginning of row): Work to the sli rch wheee the placeme nt o f the.' incr~se will \.)( on thc riglH side of {he sti tch. Insert the righ t
Tills I ) an invisiblt- Increase thill ca n be worked on bmh knit and p uc! ~ idcs. \'{'hel1 used OI long dlCedges, chis inc£easc ~hou ld be wOlked after the /l rst sliIC,h
necdlc, fro m feom to back, into Ihe righ t cdge of che kni t st itch from ,he row
stran d~ of yarn. Knit tile sritch ftom the row below, then knit the nott smc.h o n the neffile. On the p url sid e. work in a similar manner u.\ing tht' right sicic of Ihe purl bar from ,he previous row. excep t purl rhe st itch fro m the ro w helow, then p u rllhc next sti tch ou the
below, being cart'ful
kni t al (he beginn ing of the row, o r one ,Scirch befo re the last sl itd l a l the end of rhe rvw. ' Chis will leave J .~t i[ch J.long ,he edge fo r the scam .1I1owance.
n Ot
to pick u p
1'\"'0
nec:dle.
Left Raised Increase 01'1
Le~1
Edge
Left raised jn ctea.~e (u,sed
:H
end of row): Work to and including the Sti fC h
\"'ht're the plat:emcnr of the im. rea~e \vill fall on ! he' lefl side of the I:t.'> t stil( h knit . i n!oCH rht' left needk (rom fmm (0 back, inlo the left edge of tht' last knit stitch from the'" row below. heing careful \lOC to pic.k up (WO ~mmd ) of ~·arn.
Benefit! •
Good all- purpose incrC"J.~ fo r both th e kn it a nd purl side. Vcr), invisible .
-"!l
''''ork<; well for mu lt ipl" increases acros.~ a row. r..asy 10 ",,-ork ,md rememhc-r (he right-slanting and lefr-danting versions.
•
<;ood incrl'a~C' 10 usc it yo u :l.Ild need
Hl
IHI\'(' made an erro r ill your $l icd , co unl J.dd.l ~ I itc h invisib ly so mewhere in the knitl ing.
Drawbllcks C.UU101
be
u~C'd
in the $.lme column of scitches
(OW
ah:t'_r row;
I11I1SI
h.IVe' :t row nrknit or pud bC(Wt:('n Ihe illc[c.as~. Will pm::ker cd)o:~ of knitting if worked every row. Mort: dilliclll! (() work on pllrl .side bec:mse rhe ar~a used to create {he imrr.lsc is harder to ~e.c .
Kn il tht' Slitch from (h(' row below and conlinue anoS,';. On the purl ~idt'. work
in a sirul l::u m
needk .
KN IT TWO TO GET HER (K2TOG)
D[CR[A "E\
AN D PURL TWO TOGETHER (P2TOG)
-j
T HI S IS the most common decrease k.nown in knin ing . It I ~ simple ro work and easy to remembe r. It is a ri£ht -~ I am jng det: r eas~ , which means it slants ro the right inro the knirting. This d ecrease i ~ work~d at the end of the row. At
(he bcginnlOg of the rows, work irs
" '---
j
"ll ,\lJ> LY
STATim,
dccrcasc~
mirroJ'~ imag~ (see
"Slip, Slip, Knit [SSK]
and Slip, Slip, Purl [SSP]" on page Me
mad e
by worki ng
rwo
37) k:ft-slanring decr~a.,es.
stiTches
Gene rall y These deen:a.'i c,> are
togeth er. There arc 5C'Vcral WOI}'S (0 work decreases., and w he n they are worked a l bOlI1 cnd ~ of rhe sa me row they should he worked to m ir-
v.'Orkcd one st iTCh in from each end.
ror cdeh mher. For C'Xam plc, if you work rhe sa me d ecrease on rhe riglH and
T hi~
the left side of a neck opening. one ~ i d e wi ll look ncar and tid y and the m her side will look like it has cxtr .. yarn cro~~ing O llef the ~ ( i l c h c~ u ~cd for the decrease. The nriow, d cc r ca~cs in rim chapter will he ~ h own a~ r a ir ~, one slanting right and one slanting left. Lc-arnlllg the \lariou~ decreases is o ne thing, hut knowing whICh one to u ,c where i~ the other importa nt part of llsing the dif· ferent decreases. D ecu~a$e~ worked one or (".\'0 ~ Iil ch es in from the edge arc Glll ed "full fdshion" d ecreases and .lre a bit decoralive. Decre~e s worked at th e vel)' b eglnrllng and end of the row won't show. but they make ~eam in g and picking u p snrches more diHiwlt. When a decrease of two stitches must OC( Uf up the center of a desig n, the:.e decre.ases don't slant left or fight ; they go suaight up tht" center of (he kni tting. T hese "central decreases" are generally usd to ~hape motifs, or for deco ra tive purposes.
work wit h when picking up ~ t iKhes,
D ecreases are gi ven
fO f
leaves a v<"ry casy area to see
if needed, o r wh en working ~ea m ~. J. o n<"s(i rch seam allowanC<" at (he end of Knit T~ O rOsell' e' on Left Edge With rhe row, work to three $titchcs t" om Two-Sti\ch .;,eam A1IQVo1dnce r.he e nd, work decrease, fin ish rhC' row. It is worked the So:IllIe w heth er it is a purl row or a kill! row. More ~ lHdws Crill be left ::ther the d ecre;ue if d esired for:t more decora tive cffi-Cl. To make fh e d ecrease" with
Benefits \Vol·kt"d al er,d of rows.
W'orks with (Ill weights of yarn. •
the kni t and pml sid e of th e work. Although the
Cood d t"nt'.lse to us ... when w id co work m any d~'-r ... as e~ acro~~ a row.
dec rease will only show o n the kn it sid e, ~O\l nee<1 ro be able ro work a match-
Acts ~I~ ,I right -~J.J.l1 ting mirror-image d ecr... as~ co l... fH ianring slip,
lug d ecrca.~e o n (h.:- p url side and lite knit side in case d ecreases are v.urkcd on evety row, o r o n purl rows.
slip. knit. or slip. ,lip. Pllrl (see pag... 37) .
A> wi th incre.lse.<;, rhere a rc t ime'; whe n you must
dccrea~
ber of stitl.hes across a row. See (he work"het'( o n pago:- 140 I:m.' the p lacemenr.
to
;Ul J
Drawbacks
a a rtain rltlm-
11' it! kaq one srirch j$ nor lefr after docreJse o n rhe edge of the work. if i ~ vt"ry dj ffi (. ul r [0 st:tm or pick up stitches.
help you cak u ,
~
...
Sho ...."!; 0111)' on knit ~ ide whnh..:-r worh-d on rhe knit side or purl ~idc.
II
I'! •
. 1II "
To Work Knit rwo wgether (KllOg): Knit to rhe s t i tc h e~ to Ix d"ueased, ir,sen Ih ~
righT kninin g nc:c:dle infO ,he' first (\\iO .q itches on rhe len kninitl g needle as if w knit, wrap the ya rn ,unuml the right needle in rht" norm,i.l man ner, and knit [he rwo srirdlC.'i together. D ro p ,he [\A.'O srirches JUSt knit rogeliler orf rhe left needle.
. II
"
~ "
!~
i~
I~ l~ .~
Knit two tog~tn e r,
I~ Purl
twO
togethe r (P2tog); Purl
knirri ng needle- inro tht hIS(
fO
(WO
IIle srirchcs to be d ec rcas~d , insert ,h e right stitches o n rhe left kni tting needle as if
10
purl. wrap Ihe yarn ,Hou nd Ihe right needle in rhe normal manne.{, And purl rh<:: twO
srircht:!> cogerhcr. Drop the rwo stitches.
JUSt
SLIP . SLIP . KNIT (SSK ) AND SLIP , SUP, PURL (SS P)
II!: II!:
I I
5 l. J 1'.
il I",
S 1. 1p, K N I T
together or purl
or slip, slip, purl, wh en
twO
u~ a~
the mirror image of knit n ....u
rogcthc::r, will m~kt: rh", ".'ow" with multiple dec rease, o n the
left and the" right sid es o f tht gomneJU look exactly the' same. T hi s decrease wi ll on The righTside only. If worked on every OI h.:r ruw, the restlh will be 'J
~ how
II, ..I ,
nice line at the necklm c or ,ltXv(" opening thar will make seaming or p k king up stitches easier. fhere should bit a one-st itch (or more if dcsirt'J ) seam ;JlowancC' left before or :\ft~r [he decrease. Be sure bOlh edges mJrch .
I I
I
purled togerher off the kfi: nde.
Ii'
I It Ilo_
III
PurllWo together.
I
,
Benefits
I"
Ads .lS
'lo
..
ir"
,,.
:~ \('
\'('orktd
Drrzwbacks
II' I~
I,.>fr-sl.lnting mir ror-image decfusc to righr-sbn ring
Rcpl.lt't's slip o ne ,titch, knit one stitch, pass rhe' slippeJ ~ ti \(.h (S l. K l, PSSO) tor a llt'J.re r dcc.reJ.s('.
,,-
I"
J
dC'..:rea~e . knit tWQ wgelhcr or purl two IOgether (see page .15) .
• ~
•
j\.·lor.:: difll-::ul[ 10 reme mber roart knil fW O togerher or purl two rogcrhcr. Take'S a link more tillle:' than knil twO !ogefh er Of purl t\-I.'O IOgc(hcr. If ,H least om: st itch is nOI left before d ecrease on (he edge of ,he work. it is I't'rr ditn<:u\r ro scam or pick up Mi[ches .
To Work
CENTRAL CHAIN DECREASE (CCD)
Slip, slip, knit: On the knit side, slip (\Vo stitches, one at a time, a~ if to knit. lnsen [he left needle from left to right into the front of the nvo stitches and knit rhe twO together from that position. Drop the nvo stitche~ Just knit together off (he left needle.
THIS IS a decorative decreJse worked wnh a s[I[ch ro rhe nght and a stitch
to
the left of a center stitch. The decrease incorporates three stitches
of
111[0
one, leavlng:o. raised
row
knittJng. 'XThen worked acro~~ a row with corresponding Increases, ir leaves a decorarive ZIgzag harder.
. . . .,. . ,. '. ,,""
f-' ".Jh r . ·t',·, .,, :~ ,t, . ,,~
\'
w,. ,
'~ I~.. .. ..T ~. •........~.,oc i,'t' t •. _,.•, ' . '~' ''' ' , ..... ' .... , ~.~ ., "' . ,
Slip two stitches to right needle.
Knit two stitches together
,
Slip, slip, purl: On dK pur! side, ~[ip t\'.'O stitches, one at a time, as if to knit. Transfer the sll[ches back 10 the left needle. Insert the right needle from left to fight through (he back of du.' stitches and purl the two together from that posi[iol). Drop the two stitches just purled togcrhcr off the left needle.
•
..
~
'
Central Chain Oecrease Worked up the Center
Benefits "'
Move two slipped stitches to left needle.
•
Insert right needle through back of stitches and purl together.
•
·
~·.. rth Wrong
Side of Work
F,,~: r.8 . L: Pu ~ Two Together Worked at End of Row. R Slip, Slip, Puri
~'.ICJrkcJ at Beginning oj Row. De<:rb3Se does not show on \OJfon8
side
•
Pu rpose of dl"cre<1'ie is ro leave ti'om hoth ;;ides of iL
2.
central sti(ch and decrease a ,,(itch
Used for motif shaping. ;\bke, a Zig.l~lg pattern in knitting when used in combinarion wirh yarn O\'er, or other incrC" ).~c.'i. \'('orked on cycry other row. on the knl( side. \X'orb with all weights of yarn. \\'orb \\'lth 11l0"{ ,ri(~:h parterns.
DrawbtlCks • The (em ral
stitch will nOI be as obvious In garter stirch, llnl('s~ It is purled on the wrong ~i de. Depending on the wl."igh( of the yarn used, can leave a vely (hICk ro\\ of knirring wlwf.:o ~l\tl"hes sit on rap of each other. Pull, up (he sides of the knJ[[lng, creating a diamond shape if worked hr asclf; there \~"ill nor be a snaight edge at honom of knitting.
II
I ... •
!, I
r~
To Work Worked on knit side only: Kni t to on e st itt:n before the center !>(itch where
de<.-l"ClSc is 10 be locm:d . 'Slip the next
(WO
I~
c('m er sritch. Knit the nexI stitch. pass the twO slipped stilChes over IOgelh.:-r.
,he row.
(SL I, K2TOG. PSS O)
I It
.stitches mgt:thcr as if to kn it from
,ht" \cft needl< to the right needle: (hat is, the om: stitch before center dI\d the COJHinoJ ~ :lCross
DO UBLE CEN TRAL DECREASE
LI K~, TH E
I
II'
cenrr-a] chain
dcc:rc:::t~. (h i ~ d C'c..re~C'
im.: o rporat..:s rh(ee stitches in to
o ne, but the resulr i ~ a A:H row o fkll ini ng with $Iitch es crossed Ove l each o ther. II is workt-d in rhe same po~i rion
~-
Ii Sli p twO stitches togeth e r as if to kni t Knit next ~tit(h on left needle.
Pass tlNO slipped stitches Oller knit stitch on right need le.
"1 6 keep the d~r...rea~e in a straight line o n subsequent rows. work to o ne smeh before th e cenlf;l ! slI lch o f the d~ueasC' Jnd re peat from" above. Your stitch coun t sho uld be red uced by o ne stitch on each ,ide of ,he center stitch. If Ilcct'S)3ry. nurk the cefHrai ~1I {ch wiTh a pin to help you nnd it.
£ I!:
I!::
t.
~
,. DO!Jble Centldl Oecre,lse Worked up The Center
~ ~
Benefits
~
Purpose of dC'{[C',h<.' is to i.:::tvt' a ccnmu from both ...idn of it.
~
~( i lc h
and
d ecreJ.~e
a stitch
~1akt'~ J Zigl;'~ pattern in knining when used in com binalion wnh y.nn ovt'n or mht-I' in crca~cs. C~('d as J d t'TOIJ.t ive dec rease. Fla [[cf than cel1trJi cha in decrease, wi tho ut a raised slneh.
•
Csed ii.J( mOlif ~ha ping. \X"orket! <,va:-" other row Oll right side. \\'ork, with aJl w t·l ~ hr.~ oC rarn .
Drflwbacks
• •
.-
~
Not
,moorh-I ()(J king a.s central chain decrease, bll[ fhtter.
Pulls up the s id (:"~ ," f the knitrin g, crea tin g a diamond shape Jf worked h~' i l ~cll: thne wi ll not be:l straight edge at bvttom of kni tt ing .
70 Work Worked on knit side only: Knit to onc srilCh be-forI: t h.1: center stitch where decrease is to be localed . *Slip the ncx t Sl il Ch as iF ro lUli! from the lef, necdlc
the right needle: [his is the stitch before the' cenrcr stitch. Knit the next 2 s!ilche.s rogether, the cemer stitch and (he slitch after it , pa~ the slipped stitch over. Continue across tbe row. to
... ,,-
S[LVAGES
~
.
~
~"
. f( '~ .
.r ,.""
~
.
.~~''' .- •••• '.1''''
--;".
. .... , ....
Slip one S1itth as if to knit.
P(I!i5 slipped stitch over the knit
Kn it ne:rt two stitches togethet.
stitch on right needl e.
To keep the: decrease in a srraight line on subsequent rows, work ro on<;, stitch before [he central stitch of (he decrease and repeat from ~ above, Your
~
P LVAC E STITCHES, llso known a~ .~cam allowances, are not a1w:oys
~
neccs.sary whm knitlin g. III fau. if rhey are n ever used, the seam s o f the garment will still look fin e, ~~peciall y o n a garment witham body
l!:
shaping. Bm th ere
~
look eve n belter, such as o n edges with increa5cs and d ecrcas(?s. The a l ~o be easier 10 sew.
srileh coum should bC' reduced by one stitch nn each sid e.- of the cent er stitc h.
~
If necessary. nl
I!.
4l(f
times when using: a selvage st itch wi ll make the
SC'lms
~ c am s
will
One of the reason s selvage ~ Iilc h es arc Ll ~cd is to pre'-'cnr srooonenc-sri tch edges frorn rolling toward th e purl side. Thi~ edge rolls hcc3llse the purl bars across the wrong $idc of the y..nrk arc shan er ,h:01l tnt" v~ o f the knit stilCh on the right side of the wotk; (he work colls to the sid e with lh e sho rter stitch.
i<'
M.1nY of these St+.~J.gc sti tches, d epending on how many stitches are used , will
~
prevem the edges from rolling, but narrow selvages won't com pletdy srop thern. There are twO basic selvage edges that u e popular, and yo u either love
i~
the m or you h are them. One is the slip stitch selvage and the other i ~ {he gomer sti tch selvage. I generally don't use selvay,e sfitches except in ribuing an d in gar-
l~
ments with f}.utern stitches where th e continui ty of the patrem would be lost
,£
if o ne stitch on eac.h elige was used fo r the seam. for example, if YOll were
i~
:!l
il'
uSC" a ba:.ket-weave p:metn of knit fo ur, purl four, and d id not u~e ;t selvage stitch , you wOllld lose one stitch fro m the edge of hOth pieces when you sewed tile seam . The PU((("T1l would , hen loo k like knit three, purl three at the side
~
~-
't
~
to
seam (ste "S eam~ in Patte.rn," page 67) .
In plai n stockinette stiTCh. yO Ll don't Ileal to llse a selvage stitch because there is no pan ern 1O ruin when you sew tht' scam. Some knl n ers prefu to
,~
!l
' '!II
make a sclv
43
. , c , ., "
~
SLlP STITCH AT BEGINNINC Drawbacks
OF EVERY ROW
•
Ea.~~· to forget
if pMf stitch e.a n help with seamin~ and with reducing bulk ."It (he~cams. Do not work rhis selvage stitch on cdgc~ where scitchcs will be picked up latc, beCAuse;t can I~vt' holc$. Also. if yvu u~t this _'\Clvagt' ~(ilC h on edges, (he r,uio ror picking up stitthes wi ll ch:mge. (See " Picking Up SliIChe-s," page86.) If used 011 the edge of garter stitch, 35 o n a s~rf, the li tde chai n cre,Hcd up du' side is a ch:uming addition.
Till s
if you don't
Ihis techmq ue all rile- lime. It will .show of J >C'am h J~ ,he ~Iip seitch ;ttld pan of the S(':.Irll Joe.s not.
Reduces bulk when u:.c-d
SI!.LVA CE
U)C
fnT Sc'.lOlS,
but can leavC' eh (' seam looking a
bit loose. RequirC's twO diffe-I'enl metho
I!. 5' ~
10 Work For stockinene sutc.h with chain up rhe edge; Slip rhe first .scitcil of every knit
i:
row b Urwi.se wirh }"1m in b;lck. Slip the nrSt stit<. h of every purl row pudwise
("
with yarn in fronl.
~
(. S100anelte S1Itc.h With Ch~jn
Gart~r
Stitch With Chain up
Ganer Stitch WIth Tighler
the Edge
up the Edge
Knot a.
Edge
I ll>: \Ylhm J'lu (lU irutructed UJ flip n uitch knirwise Qr pur!w/U', it don no' mtan lhar JUII mol){' the Yl/;'" to ,he Imlt (1r purl pOlitiM before lOU Jlip Wi llltch. If the pm ;j lQ be- l'1I(}1)(d /Jf'fort' The Jllp muh. tlu ilJJ(rlf(-twm will uU J"u. Slipping the HiuiJ knhwiu or plII-Iwi.1t: II ttJrd to place thr stirch on thr ngh! nt>rdl.f in 11 crrlain position.
~
SI. p ~u tch kni twise with ydm ill back.
~
for garter .stitch wit-h chain up lhe edge: Sti p the- first stitt-h of eve ry row purl-
~
WISt
£ ~ ~
Benefit,-
to
• •
r:
Has thn'e \·('rsion ... J.e-avt"l<> an enl.l1~(..d ch:lin up die edge- of the work, o ne chai n for ('wry
,
IWO
{o\V\, which ca n help you ooum rows.
Hdp.. \\ith
~r:w iJlg seam.s together.
1.cJ.\·cs a. b~ aurj(ul edge when u~d wnh g~ ner stitch. All iIH: reas('~ or d e~: rease~ should be worked insjde sdvagc .H itch. \'(.:()rk ~ wdl wilh 311 wc:igh t~ of ya rn.
44
with yar n in front. move Ihe. yun to (he back and kni r ac ros~ the row.
Slip stitch pu,lwise WIth ya rn
In
fronL
'OJ Foe garter .sti tch w ith lighter knOt at edge: Slip tile first st;t( h of every row ].;ni l"Nise with yarn in hack .
.. J
,...
~,.
,
Slip ~ti tch knilwlse with yarn in back.
45
,
.-.:
S f L VJ\cr"
GARTER STITC H SELVAGES WITH STOCK IN ETTE STIT C H TH IS TE.e ~I NIQU E is perfect fo r achieving Ihe SdlTIe num ber of rows in corresponding p i c.:c.~. It a L~o hel ps with seam ing because the knoLli at the edges will m.lI(;h perfectly, bu r it m 2y r«J u ire J. bit mo re blocking ro make the sea m lie Au wilh Jess bulk, If YOII lise (WO stitches 4~ a sdvagc, you will need to add. extra stitches fO work rhe selvage s{irches. Lo~ i ng four sti tches at each sea m will rt::cluce the S;7.e of rh e kni[l irlg [00 much. The more sritches used for the selvage, the le.ss [he knining will roll if stodonene Hi[ch i ~ berween rhe selvages. This works very well when added to knittin g with co le-I( work o r w ith a stitch pattern that you d.on't want 1O interrupt with a sca m. I. ca n also help you keep track of what row )'ou arc o n in rhe panern or charr; cJ.c,h ga rter-smch knot at the edge equals two rows.
50
..-
J
I!.
,
· •·
... Ii!:
Dt"Corarivc selvage fo r p ieces (hat' won't have scams. ,-\ny bu lkincs~ it leaves in seams usually can be ste.amed and A:mcncd
•
•
out.
• •
connol {he {oil a r (he edse~ o f ~ rO(;ki ne{(e s(i leh . Very ebstic: helps cancrol some pan erns that grow in lengrll d ue (0
•
Firs to wntours such as armh ole shaping or neck shaping.
~
Ii!
l
t! ~
I
I!:
•
~
-.•
~
!
~
•
~
•
• IS •
I!!:
... l
I!! ,
H elps ~Iighdr
the pattern stjtch o r ro roo ~ I ippc-ry a yarn.
W'orks \vt"U with
I
I!!
!
n )OS t
w('ighrs of yarn; bulky yarn can he too thick
for seaming.
Drawbacks SIiShtlv du..:ker SeaJllS. Can It"~i\"t" ,I bulky selvage after pick ing up stitches. Can bt> used at m·ck or armhole edges, but leaves the se;J.m allowance thick
•
BC"'Jt not TO use \\1\h bulky yarns if sea ms will be sewn. If u~t"d on J. piece. if m U .~r be used consi~l ... ntly, as the sclvase wher~ it i~ mnl will be shoner than rhe sd vag... where Ir IS n O I used. Lasy to forget. Place m arkers befo re a nd ,.fler selvdge s( i tchc~ iO hdp \'ou remt"lllbe(.
To Work For seamed edges: Knir rh e every row.
t'
10
Helps rht" kuining lie Aat. \X"ork. well with pattern slirche,s that h:lve a knit and purl pattern .
•
~ G.aner Stitch Selvages
Benefits
first
one or rwo and Ll.<;t one or two stitches of
.. , I. '
...
\ t. \ \
DOUflLF SUD STITCH SELVAGE T ).l1 s
r ATT t' P;N
rcquires a m in im um of twO srilches
£0
HIND Off
work. l f you use it in
seam , add exua s titchc~ ro work the selvage stitch es, because if you do not, the p:mew will reduce the siz.c of t he k.nitt ing too mm.. h . The more stitchr:s
3.
used for the selvagr:, the less rhe knitting will roll jf stQck inerte stit<.:h is between the sdv(lgc~.
L ~O R££.ERItI;'. n
(0
as casting off, the purpose of binding ofT is
(0
fin ish off s(i ,-chc~ so dlC:y won't unravel. lllc re are numerous p laces where you will need to bind off (BO) Slitch es, includi ng at th e end o( a p roject and for bu{{on h o l c..~, neck shaping, and armhole shaping . . r here arc many t cchlliqu e ~ (or binding off stitches. Some are d o:-corat ive, some arc
JUSt
a way of ending off stitc he~ . and som e :lre both. Choosing the
correct bind off i ~' imponant for good finishin g and smooth, cJeJ.!l edges that make fim shmg ~:tS J e r. Somr: bind-off tt"chni4u("s require knitting n eo:- dles, some
8m'fi ts •
need. a yam necdl(" with the !mi{{ing needl es, ,md some rctjuire a th ird knitt ing
l.e.tv(:S :l wide ,e3m Oil PIC(('S th:u need seam ing. Lc.wes the ~"t'J.m -t liulc bulkr. OU t us u311y can Ol! stea med and
needle. h is ('a ~y to work a bind ofr 100 ligh d y, so ~ou m ust lX' careful to m.tke the;: bind off as e!asdt: .lS the knitting.
IlJuelled out.
Slighdy tiatteT Ih;1n b,lfH'r
~titd)
H ere are some general pom lers
and Ic.\~ bulky.
•
D ecorativr: on pleccs Without sea ms. Help" l'ontrol thc roll at the edges of ~tockinette qitch.
•
\X/ork~
•
100 \\ide I\l w;e \\h~'rt' stitches will be picked up. Jf met! on ,I pi
,I t'r''r ,dvage stitches
(0
help you remember.
To w"rk On evcry row; Knil one, purl on~ at the beginning kll it o ne :u the end of the (Ow.
To bind off loosely with the tr;l.ditional bind off. -tlways hold nO( tug on the yarn after each stitch
.-
)'-'Iakes th ick ~e;lJTlS If workcd wilh bulky yarn .
help you bi nd off. J.
needle ii t
the right hand one to two s ize~ larger than the needle in the left hand. Do
w("11 \\I\h moo;( weights of y:;t rn (except bulky yarn),
Drawbacks •
~
to
...
, •
!!! ~
•
bound off. [I.·1 aintain tension for
entire edge. Pull Out on the edge to b e su]"(" it I~ d~tic . Always bind air in pattern when appropriate \vith the bind off vall arc uSI ng . hpeTimem with {he- differenT hind -off tcchniq ue>;. whcn ~W;lH:h ,
!!:
IS
jf
yOll
It will hd p you d ec idc' which o ne you wam
arc not sure of che finls hlllg technique
YOIl
10
YOll
work your
usc.
will be m lllg for rhe
bound-off cdge, sec aside on another needJ e llIHil you have all pieces fin i,.,hed; you c.all mJ.ke the deCislOn then.
•
orr,
After hindin g leave long tails that (an be lIsed fewer ends to we'lvo:- in.
lD
seams, so there ate
or the row, :\Ild purl o ne, 49
Il
I
1'1
U
(l r
I
5
TR AD ITI ONA L BI N D Off
•
To Work \'(fork
yields ~ nirt' edge wherever it is used . as long as it is not tightiy. Ir can b(' u:;ed ill virtuall), all Afe:LS that require bound-off
T HIS n;c. H N IQ llf.
\~'o rked
t OO
fWO
srilches in pa{(("rIl , "jnser( (he- lefr knicri ng ueed le undt"( the ~econ d
stitch o n the right ncctUe. pu ll it over rhe top of th e tlrst sri rch, and drop i, off tht' needlt'. Work o nc mort' sli((.h and rep~at fro m' ullLi l o nc STi rch n:mains
on right ncOOk
srirches.
•
.. Pass firs t knItted stitc h ove r seco nd stitch loosely.
L to R' TradItional Bind Off above Garter StiKh, Stockinette SIJu;h, and R,hbll'lg
To d ean li p last stitch : Bind off sritchc:s umit 01lt' stitch remains. Slip the lasl sti rch
(0
the right k ni u ing needle. T hert'
T he mosr commonl~' LLjt'd hi nd to
ofr;
a l ~o known as "p ul lover bind off. "
(WO
.,> [itches on the ri ghl
needl!:'. Wi th the lefr need lc. pick u p rhe lefl loop of rhe ~ (i {Ch below, rt'w rn rhe ~li ppctl s[i[ch back to the left need lt', kHi l ,he
Bmefits F.ur
•• -•
f WO
sritches rogc:ther, and
bind off.
learn bt'(,.;HI~c it i$ " knittin g" with a simple added srq>.
CJJl bc bound otT in pJ u ('rn " itch .. wht"ther knit or p url , ri ght or
wrong \id('. \X.'ork~ wdl \\lth "II yJ tn weigh ts. to.·1 irror imagt' to lon~ mil..:a.st on (.s.ct' p,lge 10). Slip last lotitch to right needle PIck up left loop of \Iitch below.
Dl'flwbtlcks Ea~r to work 100 d~llly: [0 hd p bi nd off loosely, lISt" d ne«lJe onc or ("wo ~izt') 1.ltgcr in tilt' TlSht h.md only, and do ,lo r rug o n the working
•
yarn ,Itit'f c;Kh ~tiH h. F(Jrm ~ th ~ l,ut row of kn itti ng
Return slipped stitch 10 left needle and knit two stitches together. Bind off.
To fin.i sh off last stitch: Wh en ,hert' is one \ ti lCh left on the right need le, 3\
wdt as the cast-off ed ge; must work
ill ~tit(h. p,lm:rn. rht' 1,ls! qitch boulld oif C.1I1 look loose:
Ot
.. fo Cbn Up L m Stit~h" on facing page) .
sloppy. (To corrcct, sec
prn and pu.!.h thro ugh the
1001>
o f (he last stilch and p ull snugly
10
CUt
tl ni sh orr.
To weave first and last st itch of circular hind off invisibly: lUtc r all stilches are boun d off and fini shed off, CU I the yarn leaving about a [0" rail. and fhread o n\"o a yarn necdle. Insert lhe needle from front to back under the first bound-off STitch on the lefi til;!{ loob like a V lyinS on it~ ~ide. Ins('rt rhe yarn needl(' d own Throllgh rhe «("n-
ter of the 10M bound-ofT sti tch o n the righl. \'{'('.l\'('
the: tai l in on the
w roll ~ ~id('.
...
- <3, 'iI! - . _ .:. ~ ~ ~ ~ \~.' " ,. · " l . 1!"
. . ... , . , .
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.. ~
KN IT T WO T OG ET HER BI N D OFF
To Work ~ K lli { twO st irchr:s IOw;,rhet. Place th e resuh ing ~tit c h . now on the right need le.
~ T HI S T EC n N 1QtJ .t I t a~ a fi nn. thick edge. II is n o t a good tec.hni'l ue if a scam is to be worked ilt the bULlnd-ofT edge:. h is simp le to e:xecme, h ut u n {'.is' ily be done (00 ril!,hdy. Ii is generally IIsed o nly in sped ne places ($l~ dBt'ndiu, " below).
•
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l \0 R K.... . Two Together BirxJ Off dbove Garter Stitch. Stockint:tte Stitch, nnd RIbbing
back o n the left n eedle: as if to p m l. Repel'u from · acrms. Fi n ish off.
~
~
Ii ~ Knit two logethel.
Ii
PI;t(e stitch b;t( k on lett needle.
F: I!:
I! ~
Bn lefirs
~
So rn t't imC'~
use-d " h ~' 11 b indi ng o ff a pau iaJ row.
I
O fte n u.),d in J.l~C
•
T here is
•
\X'ork~ with Jj~hf' W nlC'dium. wdglli ya rn s, too th ick
fO
till ~th3.in~ nnlUp
(';00<1 to usc
J)
Ii
{..(e.uC' a poin ted e
fo t b ulky ya n K
the Ijr~t row o f a h u uonholc::. as it lies Aarrer than the
lTJ.diriollal bllld off.
I bl." . nUl.l
~ltneraJ h ind -o ff techniq ue.
~ o t ,1pp ropriJtc fo r nrt·k et.l gc~, ~ h o uldt'rs, o r a nll h o le~ .
C annot be worked in p.\ttcrn sfi(ch. Ill mt
Ix· p ulled our to th e righ t as they arc made
~o Ihey :m' l1 0t to() til(h t o r b Ulldu:J up. 1 1.t~ 110
..
Ii Ii
Easy III worJ.. toO nghdy.
ROlllld-otr Hitches
F
Ii
D rawback; Very \pc.:i(i~·
Ii
match in g ca,r o n.
I~
[Ii [I!
"
•
GRAFT1NG O R KJTC HENER ST ITC H
Work kni t one, purl onl!" over an c.... ("n number of ~t i tc h("~ for de!o.i rd length.
B1 ND O FF US E. TH 1S I ~chn iqu {' fo r neckbands or du: from edges of a Clrdiga n. It will give
very fini shed look
<-.J.~ I
to
an)' garmt"111 when used in co njunction with IlIbuJar
o n (seC' page 20) . h is worktt.! in knit one, pUll
0 11 C'
ribbing_
.!l
.-
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Completed tMd OH
,.
•
Vcry ~Irt'l c h y: pn:dom irlJ nrly used for bound-off sri[('hes of a llL"l:-kbJlld to C'.ISC ~()in!t over Ihe had. I nvi~ib l ("; ribbin!! looks like a tu be at the ed ge inSTead of li ke the ~Irni ~lt tinc adlie\'cd with traditional bind off (see page )0). Can Ix " orked 11.11 or ill th!" round . \'\o'ork) \\ ('11 with 111m! welglm of y.un: quite thick in bulky yarn. P~,rft·ct rnalch to tubular t -,l$t on (see page 20).
•
t
).
Go Ihrough 11 m stitch on front IIct~ Jl e .t.s if TO purl . U,\W stitch 0 11 need le.
2.
G o Ih rollgh firST slircn Oil b:)(:k needle:'" as it to lwi r. Leave sli!Ch Oil needle. Ke"t'p the yiltn berween the n~l e.~ $0 il is nOI mista ken for dnorhcr stitch. Adju){ fhe temioll d~ you work. ~ Go through fim sc ilch on fron{ need le d5 if 10 k.nit, and th rough next sli tch o n nee-dIe' as if to p url. Drop ofr liw sll(ch on front ne'edk.
-
•
..
•
• •-
3.
oj
•
Drawbacks C:lll only bo;:' u!cd to( knit one, purl one ribbing_ 'J:, kcs mort' dun a \'C'r~ge amOunt of tim e. Ri nd on must bIC at titt: same (e n~ion as the stitches in the ribbi ng bdow. Rl'<j ui rc=s O;-XIT;l. dOllnle·pointed or cir(ular nCe'illes :md;) Y:1( 1l ncedle. Requires a Jot of (·oJ).centr.Hlo n, as it is ca::.y 10 Juse one's place.
Using tWO C"lrcui3r or doublC:' poiOl('-o needles, depending on Ihe number of sli[Ch es, 5ep:U:He (he knit l'ri tcbes fro m (he purl st irch("s. A\ the SLirchC'"S F.-.ce you, (inseT( one n!?Cdtt: inco rhe hrsr kn it S(iICh, the second needle ima Ihe purl sruch) acro.~s. Half the" snrchcs will be on one needle and half the sfi(ches will be on the ~ccond needle. \Vhen you look af the knitting on ('.ilher side, the're wi ll be knit slitches on rhe needle fuci nt:: you . Bodl pieces need 10 have Ihe S~Ille' number of stitches. C ut the wo rking yarn about rim' !.' ti mcl' the width ofrhe knitt ing plus abom l l"" ex tra to weave in. Th read ya rn through a yarn need le. YOII wi ll Jire<:1 the yarn needle" 3.S if it were " kni t{ing needle, working with the two pi eces together. on knirti ng nt"ed l~ held in Ihe left h.-m d. C;rafi: (he stitches (()~echc r a.~ fo llows .
•
8mefirs •
To WOrk
"
4.
Go through fi rs l nitdl 0 11 h3.ck needle as if to purl. and thro ugh next sriTch on nccdlt' ,1$ if to kn it (see arrow in illus{r:ll ion below) . D rop ofT li nt stitch on back nc«l le" . Repedl fco m .. (0 " un lil there is one sritdl on each n e~iJe.
).
Go through rcmilining stitc h on fro nt needle as if 10 knil and drop stitch off.
G.
Go through T.;om,ti ning ~t i td l on back need le as if (0 pu rl and drop ~ri t ch off. Fin ish off by w/:;Iving in the end.
t
;;
~
.
•• ,
,., -
,",.,',.," ".j.,
-
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.
...... , ...
~.~....
PI.ne sti tches on two needle\.
$Ieps 1 and 2
Steps 3 and 4
13' '' 11
1) , , _,
TwO AN D THRH STITC H I ~ CO RD Drawbacks
BIN D OFF. ALSO KN OW N AS
•
A PPLIED I -CO RD
•
TH IS 11',(';HN1 QUE leaves a nice rolled edge on the fin ished piece . If you Ilecxl
Do not mc
[h e ends of rhe I-cord , gf.lft th e ~ Iit ch es rogcdler. (See "Grafting Live Stitches to Ca~ t-O n or Hound -O IT Stitches," page 80.) Tf you are worki ng arou nd an edge like a collar or ovel' a large: llunlbC'[ of s ri (dl C'S, YOll rtuJS( work l oo~c1y, or the Im in ing below will be pulled lOa ligh( and pucker. \'{/a rk w ith [he s,lm c ottd1cs used fo r the body ~titch e.s o r wilh a Luger need le in the right hand if Ilt:cessary to keep it loose. Do nor ovt:r steam or block {,Q Ratten. 10
L I:;Y to wo rk toO riglHly. I-cord ~ eal1l, require LIse of grafriog or Ki tchcne.r st itch ro kct' p rhc tube' e!fen of the I-wrd , U5t'd over ;l Inng Me.a. rht' rows below Ihe bind off e m puckcr.
~t.l/ll
Oil
a SC:lm th~1 i.~ going to be woven logether, suc..h as a
should er ~~'2m .
•
I-l ord will nut b~' uniform in sile u nless care is laken 10 pull the ya rn lighdy acro ~~ the baLk of the [-cord ""'hen wotked . Adding I-co rd in a colHras{ing color to (he m ;lin color of lile' !mirfing may r"~mh ill ;1 b ir of {he main color showi ng thro ugh. To prevent rhi$, w ork Ihl·la~l row of m ain kn ining (pro b:or.bly a purl row) in comraSf
colo r olnd Ih("1l wo rk I-cord ill sam~ color. ' l ~ kC'i more (,hall usual amo un ( nf riroe. 9
·J j kc ~
more Ihan uSII;l 1 amOll1H of yaUI.
~
~
To Work
~c
With complo e,d lUlitting o n the kf[ need le, cast on to the Idi ncedle rwo n itche!> for rwo-~li rch I-cord or th ree S li t chc~ for th ree- ~l i u:ll I-cord , using cable caSt on (~ee page 14). - Kn il o ne (tWo) sti[(.h ~s, slip, ~Iip , kn ir (see p.age j 7) with J.a51 st itch of C;i5[-on slit chc~ and f1r ~t stitch on [eft needle'. Trlln sfer the £wo (three) qitches back to the kft m:cdle:ls if to purl. Pull rh e yarn ngh rIy a cro~ s the back of the work and repeat from ...
If!:: ~ ~ L to R. rhree 51 1 .. I-Cord Bind (11 above Gartt::J Stitch, Stockinetle Stitch. dnd RibbIng
No fF. : Th~ tuhniqlfe iJ tlu mme ~fJO lt (1 r~ wOI·king 0/1 {hI' pllylsidr of the work.
ti
I!!' Benefits R(~lkd
ni ce fini ~ h (0 fro m cd~es, neck openings., bUlCOll b,md, ..:olhn . ~l .: tvt b;lnd ~, and pockets. Can I>t' worked with cit her [wo or th ree stitch("~; [wo-s(itch version lcaves ;1 " ny ~m all e'dging: t hree-~[irc.h version leave, a larger edge wim more Ixxly.
...dg,t: ne',n6
,j
~
•
~.
~
• , ,"'."" , • , • • •• y ,
•
.. !
~
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, ,
•"
Three-StItch I-Cord
Transfer three stitche~ bac.k to leh needle as if to purl.
~
,6
,,~ .
,..
. .
57
6,,. n O ••
1'.
$
PI COT BIND
...
OFF
D,
I
;~
wdl on b.. hy dothe> wh~ce lors of stretch is ncrded for neckb.lnds or ctillS. it's a good idea to \"ork tnt: bind off wi th a size 2 or 3 need le \0 kttp th e picots .c:;
I!' J
.. .. ,
'"
'
•
• · ••• ,• • . • • ., < • •
I?' j ~.
~
"
$"fT\~~ 1l('\I~nd Or- \\"" C"st On One
L to R: ( ,,1<1(!( Stitch, Stockinette Stitch ilnd Ribbing
,
I • I• I ,I • I
•
PicO(s , ....orked toO dose to C';l(h other can ca use the edge to ripple, which may or m,l ~' not I'll: de'sirable.
• •
Loo ps on pi cot~ can get caught on sharp objects or small finge rs. Takes more {holn usua l amount of ri me:.
•
"lakes more Ih,l1l um.l.1:l. m o ullt of yarn.
~ •
~
,
Drawb(lCkJ
••
T HI S TLC H N IQUE on be used on ;my edge that does no. get st:amed. It works
'"
~
I!:
•
t!l. ~ ~
~ ~
• •
To Work To add e1asri d ty to the bound·off edge w ithout the pico ts being very visible: 'Cast on one sti tch uSin g cabk cas l on (set page 14), bind off dHee sti tches using th.e traditi onal bind off (see page 50). pl ac( re maining s(ilch Oil right needle back on left needle as If to purl and proceed from',
10 (nake the picots more decorative and larger: Work as :l.oove. b\l! · 'C.1S \ 01\ from lWO to fo ur st itc.hes. bjl,d otT double the amoUl\l y Oll ClSt on. Ptoceed from .. . using the' num bers you have ch o~ . To sep;HltfC" the picots even more, bind ofT more stitches berween (he caSt -on srirdles.
E Sample Uouno Off will, (JIst On Three L ttl R: Garter 'int(1).
~ t ,:ches, Bind
~toc k l ne tte
0-1 Si;! Stllches Stitch, ilnd Ribbing
~
t" Beneifs Dt CQr-Hive rd~(' ,IS wdla.c bind off. Used on ('dgrs that will nOl have seams. :-.J\unbcr of ~Ij l che!> hetwC'.c: n picou an d siz.c of picou easy 10 cha nge. \'"r.\1 ch~rlc. good for n(.'ck edges. ~'ork l wt'll wi th rihbin~. One .mtch III the' pkot leil\'cs :I. rlluderate amount of elaSticiry; more sort'he) in tht' piCOt 1ll.lke the c:dgc more d astk and rhe picot more
\bibk MAkes a decorative edge on all garment bordc r~ when matched with picot t.~:.t on (sec pag" 16).
0 r .. 5
,
J!; •
small as po~~ ibl e.
M \)
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t'
.."'.'."'.'" -... .•. ,," ... fI' ...
1fIJ
Cdst on oot' ~t jtch u~m8
Bind oH three ~titthes, then slip s1ikh Ofl right needle to left needle.
'i • \ ,I I
\'\.'hcn putli ng
SEAM.
;,J.
g.uml·1\t tugether, thi~ il> the gcneuJ order 10 follow.
Block the pi ccc~ TO (he correct m (a.~u re ment s (see page 1.34). Sew o n pockets and work ij ny em beliish.rnenr. Sew or knit wgct hcr I>'ho uldt"t st:..1.ms . Work any front , neck, and/o! bUHonhole bands befo re (he sleeve.!. arc sc:"Wn in so the piece is no! so big 10 work wi th. Sew slet'"ves to armholes.
side seam of bod)' fro lll ca.~ t · on edge Fo r ., vest , work armbands.
SC'O\I
VEN A beauTifully kni t g.trmelll .vililook av.fui if Ih ~ StanIS a re done poorly. Tr's (he makC'·or-break pain! for most knitters. There are a v.ari cry of oprions for sewing seams, as wdl a~ a variety of scams to he- ~C"W Il. The W(1vt'n sea m i ,~ tht' sea m of choict' in most cases, hut th ~ r(' ::Ire O t hC' f options ~uch as knining sea m ~ IOgelhn and grafl ing sca ms togC'rht'c. In general, YOll sho uld work tht" Scams with ,he .~al1l e yarn ,IS WJ.$ used in the knined I'ic:c(') . If , he' )',un is too thick o r ha5 bumps o r slubs, yO ll can use another yarn in the same colQr and prefer-.lhly in the sa me Jiber cam enc. E.mbroidc:ry floss .md nccd lcpoinr wool are good .I lle rna((' choices tor joi ning SCo1m e color to w~avc the se..l ms. Use )'arn n ecd1c.~ , IlV l tapes{{y need les, to SC'w your S<
If YOll have ;llways hated finil>hing, aile
10
armh ole,
>lrrnn ole,
Weave in all e nds Bh)Ck again if .,ecess:try.
STARTIN G YAR N FOR SEAMI NG AT CAST-ON ED GE Using tail from cast on: With ya rn o n yarn necd le, r ig ht side of kn ining facing, J.nd tai l coming rrom the piece on the righl. "insen rhe need le from hack 10 from in to the edge <., f the C.".l St on of dte kni tting on Ihe left . Make' a figure eight wi lh the yarn, and {Orne haek under Thc edge of (he (,IS! 01\ for tht' piece of knin ing on rhe right. If 111(' ("'.I ii is comi ll~ fro m rhe lefl. work in rcver~c. Regin st":3m .·
Using n ew piece of yarn: Wi th y\l rn all y::1 10 needle, and right side-$ or knifting fac ing, in sen (he nt'ed le from bJc.k to from above Ihe c.•m-un edge the pieLt' o n rhe right. U:lvt' a long enough mi l to wc.tve in b rer. Fullo\V from " 10 ~ above.
or
or the reasons is probably that
you've ~pen ( hours on it, worked ve.ry h,ud, and ,-he ll when all was said and done, you weren't happ)' widl [he way the fin ishing loo ked. Once yOll learn to work sea ms co rrectly ~ nd get bca uTiful rc-sults, J dO/l'r rhink )'ou'll h,ue l1ni.(h· illg ;my murt. It takes time and p:lIience. It's a good idea co (pt'nd wme rime practic.ing with sw.m :hcs ur small swea ter~ .
60
Sew dceve seam (com l:a~ ( -U n edge
(Q
•
•. 6,
" '.'"
I •
I
STARTING A NEW PIE C E OF YARN WITH SEAMING IN PROGRE SS EVE N rUA LLY THE yarn you an' using to sew a seam will run Out ami you w ill have [0 SCa n a Il C'W su.md . h is besr no, to u.sc [00 long a pi ece o f yarn; 18 {()
WOVEN SEAM S
• I, ~
THI S TECHNIQU E is (h" most commonly used method of sewing scams ,tnd wit! yield Ihe most satis(aclory results w hen YOli afC puuing a gllrrnelll [0gc(her. It is re ferred TO a~ S("Will g, but i, i ~ really a Zig7.ag or woyen.looking n itc h. h is .lIsa called "weaving a sed m." W ht'n pallern s instruct yo u (Q "sew sea.m~ ." use chis techniq ue or one of its variations. 16 my mi.nd, th ~ is by fas the beSt ~e am m lISt: for ("V{'ry(hing excepl ~houldcrs. ror perfect seams, (;oun, rows when twining so matching p i cce~ have the S.11ll{- num ber o f rows. Woven scams w i!! work with any qiteh paHc til . W hen using a sel vage !it itc b, sew to [he inside of it OJI DOIh edgc~ .
I I ,
24 inches is lo ng enough. The (riel ion o f pulli ng longer pieces of yarn !h rough che stitches wi ll wear rhe yu n th in or pul! loosely spun yarns apan. Turn toe work to Ih t wrong sidC' . II isn't necessary to weave in m e ends umil ,he Sta rn is complete. Bring the necUie WiTh 'he IltW yarn up forough the same stirch in which you finish ed the last yarn . Turn w , he righ t side and resume ~ea m a ~ before. [here should be no interruptio n in the flow of rh{' ~eam.
When the scam is completed, tum to the wrong side. \Xteave the end YOll dropped upward , and (he new t;lil downward. so rhe tail:. c ross each Dlher (see "Weaving In Ends," page 130).
BmejitJ A \'('r~ion of this SC,lm will work everywhere on
l
I
~ I
~ ~
l t.Filst hall ()j seam was w()rked with green yarn, second hdll wi th white yarn. The Breen tail (Y
! [
I, I,
I, I,
E,bily worked from eht' right side of the garment so yo u call see c)(actly whC'rc you arc ~c wjl,g.
•
Makc~ Virtu,llly invi\ible sea m ~.
t t·
\"forb well \\ith ~ IJ wt'igh ts of yarn . \\lo rh well wi, h J.1I ~ titdl p;mem s. O n pines [h,1( do nor haw The same nll m h~ , of row~, it's easy "(-heat " l.0 make rht'ln
• t
,
,.... I
C an be worked .i. half stitch or a whole stitch ill f' oJll ,he edge. Can bL' worked on ('-very row or every other (Ow.
D iffic llil [() find tht'
stra nd in the ga rm ent ro stitch under. imC"r1 \Jeevt's into armholes because st itch
, !•
10
til.
Dmwbac/u
I,
, !..,
garment.
•
I
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J
{"( JHen yilrJ)
Ditliculr t i l not [h c"~
•
M USI work
lCmion (o llsistt' ntl y.
<; • ~ .\\ ,
To Work f:llblC' wil h right sid es facing u p, edges 10 be sewn aligned . U~ knitter's safety p il1 .~ (sec ~ Res() urces" on page 143) to pin lOp. middlt. and
Lay pieces Aal on
:II
TIUelld a yarn nenl Je widl it. Starting at rhe shoulder S(';} m, brin~ the need le up fro m thewro ng side ou ,he hody side one slirch in fro m t-dgc. Pull on ly haJf the ya rn through. Use rile uth er half of d1(' yarn to work the opposire side o f the sleeve SCA m later.' There is about a ,hrt:c -,o· (ou r (,,ti~
hOHom.
(11 (,
between
~ (il ch
and row gauges. The armhole' ~ Iceve has slilc.hes. '10
has morC' rows (han the
accollllllod:u c this you Rows to rows : Using
:II
(.ul remaining from
Ihe CISt on, or with a I1CW piece of ya rn (s« page 62), usc your nngC!} to sep ar:lIc rhe fi m and second row of sritC"hcs. I prc:f<:( to work rhe ~e:a m s olle sr itch in. bCC";IuS(" it is t"~ i e[ 10 sec wh ere to .~ dt c h . 'I nst'.rt tht' nt"t:d lt" undtcI the horizonr.11 bar bc:t"\",t't'n the fir~ t :tnd StcCDnd .H itch on the ldl p iec.e, n:pear wirh the m:l.fchin g row on rht"' right piece:. · Repeat from" (0 • llmil .loca m is w mpleled. Go
..;,,;. t' 'r< ",.
'';;''~':'':'.~.~I,.o' ....
l>::: ~ .'",,:'"
i/ • •,.'
'f
<: (. ',r ..'t
",-':> ....... ..,.;: "
.j:'
.:: ... \ , ' ',;;.
'''~''
','
I
.'
.~.... ..:; 1,;,,.1 ... ' .... I,t ,.~, .:.. J;;
,~I';'
''
;" """ t'.·I~'
"
.
:t& '.",'0(,. I... 4~'~ ii ~;'-"'1", .i''v':.t.;;' ""'" I.: 'c' I;;' .I'/q; .... ~ ..,:j!.t •.; ~ ,..;; ~ ",,' ,
. tJ
• 'i,;,'- :•• ,- 'to' ,,~. '"J '•. '.. ~ \ ;;-1 ...;.I'1·i·"' .... ,t::' ...... ~.I/...,;'·
-?"", •••.. ,.':+-.••~,,)o. ' 1'c,,~ ' ; '.~ .. ~~:.~ ~ '_t "'-?"
t
under Iht' t'ast-ofT .lo lilch o n lJulh sid ~s :lIld wc""avt"' in the ('nd. If you 6nd 11\:11 the rows 3re nor m atching a nd one piece is longer Ih:a ll Ihe o rhel piece, you can wOlk under rv,.·u of tht" hurizuntal y:un Stunds on the SIde (hu is 100 lo ng. Don't do [his too ofren or (00 dose- a~ it will pucker the krllwng.
will need
to {wo rk
Sleeve or. Right Sev.Tl to SWeal{'1' Body <.1t Left
un der a whole stitch of the ~ I et-ve, but work under only ont' of the horizontal bars between rht' fit~t and ,econd Hir, h all th e body sid e) three tim e~. On rhe fourth stitch, work undn tv,co of the" hol'l~ 7.QllIaJ bus on the armho le !;ide [0 om: whole- stitch O n the sleevt' ~tdt'. Thh \\~ ll rake c:ate o f the diff<.> rC'nce in r:lI io betl-\<een st itch es and rows. Contin ue' in thi s m a nn ~ r um iL(he s!c(,,\-,C' ~a m is <:omp lt'ted . AdjUSt the rario ofhori7.0 nml h,:H~ 10 St itches. If nec.e$$a r)'. (;0 back 10 [ht' sl\oulder seam and, using the mher ('[\(\ of the ya rn, work the mh!:'r sid e' of the sleeve seam. This should fit the I>IC'C:'ve into the arm hole without put:keting, provid ed [he sleeve wa~ the' cor r(:{1 width to fir the :umholc-:.
Completed seam
Shoulder seam
Sleeve
Weaving Side Seam
LO .. as for stit~'ht'~ to rows on f;Icing ~MgC. \Xlork the top of th e sleeve, and work row.. to rows for a dwrr tim e fO lhe area where the lJowld·o(f ~li l c hes aIe: lot..ued ar rhe underarm. Theil work Sli lChes to ~( i r(".he's . Accm :t lc: pi nning is the b:y 10 m.Iking the ~1C<:'vt' fit into (ht" drm holc smoothly. T he' ) 1('('\'t' (;l P wi1llook ~mJ.n in wmp.lrison wirh
Se t in sleeves: Follow from ' .~ titcb es to row~.n
S[i[ches to rows: USf" th is te<:h niq ue when sewing a sleeve inro ttll :arm ho l(', t'speci:a!ly with drop~sh(,}tl l dcr or modified drop-shoulder armholes. " I?in t he pieces rogc:rhn CU l .I. piece of yarn long enough fO Wl."av(' in tile ....·h ol(' 51c::eve.
• I
OP.
[he .lctual armhole". The bound ·oR ~dtches ;it thl: tOP oj' th e" ~Jec\'e ~ 1 H)u ld ,i( with the n'm('r dim·rll' ,\l thC" .l.houlder l'cam. \'('otk the scam om: sti tch in fro m the edge. TIlC'!'c olf'(' g"IlC"r:l lly more d ec.rcasc.~ o n the slC<'vC" than on the' body of Ihe g.um... n.t, but when there arc nutthing d ect('"J.se~ Oil bOlh pieces Ihey .l.hould line up directly 3C ro~\ fm m each Olhe r.
,
~\rOIlt: , iJc. (purl o ll e. knl! one) to Ih.:: l.lst t\vo ~rirches, purl tl>'O. On the nght side, kil n tv.'o . (purl one. kn it olle) to the end . Thi s will give a u!lt'-stiu.h Se":.Irn allowance at both end s of (he rib bing. \'(!eolve th e s.:-;un o ne- stitch in at bmh
~
ends fo r a perfec t seaJU and no interru prion in (he: rib pan ern .
.
Ir you arc CU{" lg o n usi ng ant' or Ihe (',ISI ·on methods th ar yid d an odd number of sti rch~. weave Ihe sea m using half of the knit stitch a l each edge .
Iii
When tht" edgt's arc pu lled !Oge(her (here will be o nt" kni l sl ilch, and no ime rruplion in the rib j>
.
~
iii II!: ~ ~ ~
purl twO ribbi ng, C.lq o n a mu lti ple offum st i (ch ('~ plus two C"xtra. The t"xtra two stitches will be u~ed 3S ~d vag(' st itches. O n the wrong side.
~ where. YOll can
choo~e whelilef Iht' IOtai num bt r of st itd ,es is all even o r an odd Ilumhcr, cast
011 al\ evell nu mJ.x.r of ~ I i tth l:s if th e rib p.:mern
\S
Iolit one, purl onc. O n the
(\.\'0.
knit om:. (knit (WO. purl two) to tht' l a~ t stitch . knit olle. On tht' righl sidt', purl onr, (knit twO, purl r\Vo) to the- Ian ~titch. pur! Olle". \'(!e;ovc tht' seam one sritch in :U both ends fo t a perfen .scam and no ilHC'rfu ption in th .... rib pattern.
~
Ill er hods
Knit One, Purt One Rib Sellm
Woven Half iI Stitch III from Edge
For k ni ,
~
Seams in ribbing: W hen using ltaditioH31 caSf-on
Knit One, Pu rl One Rib Sellm
Woven One Shieh In f' o m Edge
Seams in pattt"rn : W hen Iht-re i", a pattern
~
srirch in tht' knin ing, it is ~S l to
~
v:1ge stitch in {he body of ,ile
fO
you
[
and remember ,hal your stiH.h {:ounl is dif-
3rt'
told to
GIS!
o n. Be stlre 10 work thost'
exIra ~titch c~ il110 Ih e ;l.Clllhoie
~
shaping,
ferem from rhe origin.u clir ~ct i o m you m ..y il
whole S[ileh, w ith-
our rui ning th ... fl ow of (h e panu n. Seam in knit one, purl one nbbing
Se.lm in !:;nil
~'O,
purl tw!') ribbing
etc,
bc follOWin g. Th e st' am ~ can th en h ~ worked as Jircc.red above. m ing
I
"Jd tht'
cxrra stilChcs to the IOr~1 numlxr of stt(ches
~
~
I
a ~cI
ga rl1lctlf fO
make st:.l ming t'asit' r. You wi ll have
~
11.'tC
I Seam in pattern using ~"+.d!:e stitch
~,
,
10 Wo ..k
GARTE R STITC H SEAMS
W ith the twO pieces you art' joining R.1f ,md right ~Idl"" up. pin {hot pic-.... ("s IOgetber u,. in~ k.n.i.ne r's safery pins. Scan at the lower ed g;..:: of the tight-hand pi ece, working w ith ne\V yarn or an ~xis rin g rail. If the r arn IS. at the right n lgt',
GAR"IER ST 1'ICH j ~ a Vl!' ry POI)uIM sciteh for borden and ed ges bccall~ j l lic:.~
Oal, has grear d asrici£}" :lnd never .sum~
(0
Wc".l[ OUl.
Since the.selrn is vinuaUy
work inw the bonom loop of the - knO!" on tht: \('ft edge and ,ht"'n uno the wp loop of the knot Oil the right edge. If the }'arn is ;u lht' left edge, work into rhe
in\'i5iblc o n both sides of the work. it is good fo r M!wi.ng toge rher afghan squarc..\ or s rr i p~ of bil lf ing widl borders of ganer st itch.
top loop o n
,,
Ii'
•
~
:P" "f •• • .' +. +.~ t··~" !~ ,o,-; ~_ ,_
•
~
Carter sti1ch ~eam
[:
~.'.Jt.,· • •
t·.
...... .....
••••••
.~ • • • •
i
,!. •• ! · 'r#'-~ I·'· ~
0'-..
r< r<
Benefits in\'i~ih h: ~C;Hll.
•
Creates
• •
:\hk('s iOllllll~ ~'HI('r.stilf.-h rJges row to row Ve t )' easy. Cm be:' comhinoo wi th "",ov('n st'a m technique if one' cdg<' is ga nef
and the other ed ge is ~ tockjncn.e swell.
\'('orh well with .l.ll weighu of ram .
•
;\'l.lkC'~ ('numing: row) ca~y----o ne ridge equm
fWO
rows.
Drawback, 100
t j~IIt I ~' Gtn
l'\C'C'd w keep
cause rhe edge:
$C'J I11 J~ ~ trcr.c h y
10
pucker.
as the re,H of the knitting.
Sewing 100 j:.u into the knin ing will cre,Ht' a sea m allowa nce; sew
Ca mough im o
{h~ edge
10
~
~
•
Pulling
~
f
l.(~j\e) virtually no seam allo""'ance.
68
' ~. )
.~" " . ':" , ,,"\! ,. ,.
~
JlL~1
.. '1 •••••
right wgc and then jilin the honom loop un the left edge.
~
~
~tn;,:h
th t'
draw the rwo edge~ together.
~
F= ~
R f"9
••
!:>' \" <
10 Work
WOVEN SII O ULDER SEAM S
WIth th e piecc-s yO\l arc j(l ining fl at and righ t side up, pill tht pieces wgether matching Ihe stitch es (~'ee pagC' (4), Thread yll rn needlt wi th th e ya rn lI ~ed ro knit the g.arm l:'.nt. T he length o f yam should be long enough to go ,tcross the
i~
im'isible wheo worked correuly. It is similar ro grafting or Ki tchencr .sritm, bur j.~ worked wirh oound ·off stitches i llSletd of live- Hitches. If the yarn used 10 work the ~.un is nor puUd too tigh t, the stitch es lefl o n lOp of the bound-off sti(Che.~ will look like a row' of knitting. ;lnd th e s~m allowance will be le.'s bulky. Pulling rhe y.un tigh tly will m:lke the- new stitr...hes com pletely d is;.' ppear, but will lea.ve a thi('ker scam allowance on Ihe inside,
T HIS Sf.A M
whole sh oulder. .approJ!:imateiy t hree , imr:s ,he length of the sea m plus 10 "-12" ex Ira fOf rai l ~; add ing y.:u n in the mid dle (a n we:ake n rhe ~t;l m , InSc:"n (he y.un needle fro m b;Kk to front. one ,\(it("h in from dl(" ed ge of the rrom piecc; leave
~
a ta.i.l long en ough
It
stay
011
top and
(0
n OI
we-we in larer. Re~t fo r the back piecc, The y
,-
under rhe n ext wh ole knit Sliteh (twO srr.a nJs shaped il1 a V) on the rro nl p iece.
~
the back p iece. The
ket'p rng the tensio n so it look~ like tbe I'e.~, or the kni tting. Repcat fro m' on [WO
stra nds ~haped in a V wi ll al'pl:'ar upside do wn o n the
b ack piece. Cominut' working ((Om fro nt pic:t:(" to back p iece fro m ~ until all
, f:
stitdlCS are used . You m usl u.;c ('vtry sli tch o n both edges. Tf you choose
fO
lightcn (he seam yarn so thar Iht' stitches are invisIble, take both (a i l ~ and gen· dy p ull on (he m, forCing ehe ot:W
( OW
of kn itting
(Q
righ ten and disa ppear,
~ Righi Hc)lf, Se,11ning Yed lor IlIu91')llon pUfpose~ only)
M,l kt'!o :l
'(';lIn firm cno ll ~h 10 suppor! the weight o f ,he sleev<,.5 a nd
o f J.
tPf1l1 (, 1l1.
""orb v.tt l wi d, ,Ill w('igln s
oryarn .
.1
h ul ky
E f ~
Dl'llwback, \1.lke.~
,
["
BmefilS 1]t"\.k
, £
$(';\1))
d' pulled
100
t igb r.
Hath bou nd·off piecn: m ust have the sam e: numlx-r of stitc.hes, Requires t h~H lemion mml bl:' the: sam I:' as fo r th e knitting . R('quire~ (.onsistt'nI tl:'llsiO!1 for the c ntir~ $carn.
E. f
E. I.': ~.
1'= ~ 70
f
7'
"'-
'1
• "
'
Knit-Side Short Rows (for Right Front Shoulder and Left Back Shoulder)
SH OR T - ROW SI-IAI'I NC I N I'RU'AR ATlON FOR THREE -NEEDLE BI N D OFF
Knl( across the row umU the number (I f srir(.h cs you we're
[0
bind off n~malll S
on the' leff needl e, Wo rk wrap and turn as fo ll ow~: Slip the oex[ sti tch on th e
W l-I £N ruse shou -row shaping fo r crcaling (he: slope of (he shouldcr5 inSlcad of working a siair-s(ep bind off, which is diffi~'u h co weave mgClhcr. I pre(eT [0 USe' d Hce·oeedJe bind alT fo r fir1i~hin!!- the scam . The seam is smool hcr
leff needle 10 tilt' right needle as if to purl. Muvc the yarn lhrough the ~titches and coward yo\.!, Slip the Stitch b:ack to the left needle, move the yarn to rhe back. emn and purl back across th~ stitch~s )'OU h ad prt"Viuusiy knit. Wo rk
T here arc rwo veuions of shore mws. Hold your kniuing up (0 your hody as if will ~ worn . Knir-side ShOH rows arc used for the right fro m sh o uld er and
were ro be hound off, Knit one hllal row lO pick up d'lt' wraps: knit 10 the first stilch rhar has rhe littl c pud -looking ba r where rhe r.un w-.u; w rap ped around It. InsefT the right knillin g need le unde r rh e bar or "wra.p" on th(' righ t side uf the work and knit th e two sti tches together, Cont inu e acto~~, retrieving aJl wr3.p5 a~ you kni t past th em . YOIl ca nn ot retrievc th e wr:lp~ once this final row h3.s been oompleted, You must kn it rhcm a.~ ynu pa.~5 them. Place' all stitche$ on holder.
rhe
lift back :.houldcr. Pu rl -std e shorr row<; arc used for the 14 f"( )ll!
m;my short rows a~ necessary to ec.1U..lllh~ number of ~stair· s [ep" sections thaI
Shol ~d c r
and Ihe right ba("k shou ldc-f.
~ ~.
"C _
Knit-side s hon roW5'ight llOnt and left b8(k _
Purl-side short rowsleft front and light back
Fron!
You au
~
•
[:
I :;) Slip s tit(h as II to pu.l. Move yarn to front of wolk a nd slip s tit(h
be ""or king 10 £Iv: stitches Ih.u shou ld hav!."' been bound ofT a nd ~lc.n' i ng~ them
~
[
behind , so ro spc-ak, and wotking a ~ (CP called wra p and nn n (Wand T ). A
E:
sma ll ~ap will f'H Ill where you turn in th e lmddt(' of [hI." row.
~
a ga p bc(wee' n the stitches o n (he neC':dle, but you will dose [h e ga ps w ht' n you work one l a~r row after th e ~ h ort rnws ,He completed. T his or purling up t he wraps," Trus[
Ill e;
it really is easy. Here
IS
ca lled "knittin"o how it w(Jrh. IS
Move ya rn to back of work.. Turn.
ba(k to left needle.
E: oIT at the ~ h oll lder edge at rhe beginning of the row. In Sh urHow sh aping il wi ll [ttl like? you arc d oi n:; Ihe opposirl:" of what {hI." d ircnions tdl you. YOII will
reJdy ro proro::d with th rcc-m:ed.J{· bind off
~
F When dlrecrions u"l1 YOIl 10 bmd off in -Sen iom. you have' 10 sr:m rhe bind
1I0W
-
,
On the tinal row, knil bar (wrap) and sIit(h together.
F
t.: l-
t~ 7'
t
7J
I
~ i "S ,
Purl-Side Short Rows (for Left Front Shottlder and Right Back Shoulder) Purl acros~ th(' row Llnt il the number of st itches you Wert~ to bind off ft'ma ins on rhe left needle. Work wca p
lerr nectll", to Ihc right needle as i.f 10 purl. MO"'e the y-J.rn through me srircilcs JWJ.y from you. Slip ,he stitch bac k w the left needle, move the yarn ( 0 (he from, rurn and kn it back 3cross the sli tches you had previousl)' purled . Work :t.S Jnany short ro~
I, I, I
THREE-NEEDLE BIND O ff FOR SHOU LDERS
and
- . . ... /.• ,
'111_
fo , ' '\\'~'""" 4
.
. ...
'
. ... . ...... .. ...... ...... ...... ... ...... ...... ..
...
•
•
..
..
..
•
Slip Stilch as il lo pu.1. Move yarn to b.lck 01 work and slip stileh bad to lett needle.
•. r"t'. ... .......... :-,:r . ... .. .
... .~ ...
...
.... ,. I.
-:.J;
...
...
Move ya rn toward you. Turn.
.
,'
THE. MOST useful plact 10 uSt' iliis Icc hnique i.\ fo r sho ulder St".l m .... W hen you combine ,h e (hrte· ne~le bind uff with shon rows 10 doJX' the shoulders of a garmeoc, {he result is ;\ perft't:c scam. (Three-needle bind ofT can be used on any ~ holt ld e r bind off. nur jU.~f chose wi d1 shon-ruw shapi ng.) The sea m ~ h uu ld HO( be bounJ off fUO ligluly or it wi ll not lie fbt. To prCVe \H this. use ;1 needle jl ) (he right h3n u rhat is one or ('wo sizes larger than (h" needle 111 tht' left hAnd . The f;nisheJ scam i ~ quile Rat. yel tht re is enough area to attach a shoul der pad if desired.
-
-.,
On fina l row. pu rl bar (wrap) ~nd ~\Iteh
together.
Short-~OIrVed 5houideIS WIth Three-Needle Bind Of! Wide end IS
-.
neck edge.
~ I
... Benefits • B in d ~ ofT ~nd • •
[I'"
j(l in.~ the ~.im at the s;J, me time.
Cn.'J.tt") ;J, d ccnr:lI ivt" bind ofT jf uSed \'(fo rks with all wcigha of yarn .
011
rhe oUiside of fhe g.u mcn c.
t
RC(l u irc~
Both ~C3rn edges
mUl>f
have fhe same number of ~tirch es .
t
Uifficuh (0 ri p am if a scitd l is dro pped. or worked incorrecdy. l{equirC's more time.
•
MlI ~ t
•
Fc:ch awkw.ud became o f the I.hree needle .
loo.~cly.
picc.t'./i. It is used predominantly for toes of socks ro prevem bulk where it could rub And cause a b us ter. If u,~cd in the shoulder sam , it creates a ... Iighdy wC'akcr seam rhan me o rhe r .scam :l lternadves. hut it is dd ie.lte and lighrweighr and works well 011 delicare filx n o r s leevele.s.~ iu:m s. It is b~1 10 lL~e this tcchni<Jue w hen the re isn't m uch p:l ttern in (he knitting as it is difficult fO see where to srirch to duplicate rhe p.lIte rn . MllilHllin tc'.nsion to match the knining in thC' garm ent.
.C<
I~
II!: Iii
S mefits Good J.herna! i\'c rn duC'C'-needle bind oR-~
I!
•
I!
•
•
I~
To Work Place: stitches co be joi ned o n l1eedJe~'; double-poimM o r circul ar Ilee
well for thi,$ srep. T he r\eedlc: poi nts ~hould be ;u the right with ,he right Joides of rhe f:lbnc flcing. ' Knit los clhe t o ne: sr ilch from rhe rro m needle: :l nd one sti tch from the bac.k ne(!dle"'. Repeat from ~ ro *, addi " g ,mother stir..:h 10 the righ r needle. 'Wh en there are rwo stitches o n rhe right needle, bind off 10o~ly. Continue in this mann er \,Inti l all St itches are knit toge th er and bound off. Cur YAm, finish oft.
ilo used 10 wcave lotitehe... 10 qirche!o and does no r really
fOfm A seam at all, bur a row of knitring placed ~twecn fhe srirchcs of TWO
[~
dlree needlcs.
be done
.
TH IS n:C lI N IQUE
f!:
Drawbacks
<
K I TC H ENE R ST ITC H SEAM S
[I'"
:\hk(') perfect shou.lrJC'( scams wh en combined with short rows ro make ~l op("d )houldcn. Crt'at('~ a ~t3 b l(' ~ hou rdcr se;un.
\ "
E
Cood (Of lOC'S of soch erC'.ues .1Il inyisiblc sca m. Work~ \, ell w ith all yarns except novd ry Y;l rns; stilches may be ha rd to sec .md nm'dry ya rn can be di ffi cu lt to pull through St ilch.
Drawbarks
IE ,Ii
•
Tah·.. ,·xu·", ti me.
t
:-"'1mr bt' worked in rhC' same )',un as thC' !,'4t mt'nt or yarn will sbow.
•
RC'q ui rcs pat ie ncC' and skill . practice befo re you .2pply ir
Rt'4 l1ir('~
I~ ~
to
garm(',nr.
•
E.t~y to lo~e pl,lCC; sil in a q uiet roo m wit h no d istrac tio ns.
•
lklo! to fin i ~h all in o ne si tt ing as it can be difficult whefe you I
to
determine
I~
II I ~ II II' II I ~If!.
Knit togeth er one stitch trom front needle and one ~tit ch fr om back needle.
Bind off.
1
.. I
77
!
..
To W0rk Borh plcces need to have rhe same Dumber of sti rch ('~. Cut the wurking yarn about three l i m e& rhe width of the knitting plus abou( 12" extra (Q W(,.Ivt' In.
• ,
Thn':l!;d ya rn through a yarn n eedle. You will direct ,he yarn needle.u If i l \\'CTC :l knitting needle. Work widl the rwo pieces on knining n~les with wrong sides
IOgcrher. held ijl (he left hand. Graft the stirche.~ together as foUows.
,
rolJ rh~'
WJstc:' ~':lrn our of the wJ)' .lI\d under the knining. Hold the:' pic-Ces to be graftt:d with righl sides facing up, Rat on it rable. Inserr rhe yaUl need1t: fro m back to fro m rhrough the hrs{ single loop of the knitci ng u n ,he from piece. Repc.at fo r the ha<:k pi~Ct:". DC' ~ ure rhe Y'.HJl stays o n (OP 311d d oesn't loop arou nd the: edge of the klli tli ng. tWO
"ln serr [he yarn need le: under onl;' whole kn it slirch (fWO strands
Traditional method: Sec ~(ep~ 1- 6 on page S5 for di rect j o n.~.
shaped in a V) o n ,he (rom p iece, keeping the ten sion so il looks like
Tbis method will work with
rhe rest of the k ni cring. Re peal fro m (he ' on the baek piece ([he rwo strands shaped in a V wiJl bc up~ide dnwn).
SI<.1ckUICU C
stirdl and gan er stitch. When worked
with gant't stitch you m u <.( end wilh a wWDs-sid e row on borh pieces.
•
Comi nuC' in Ihis m .:tnn~r until
all slirch cs OH' used. Thl:' [cm ion of
Ihe ~a m sh o uld ma tch .h ar of the kn in ing. You'll norice (hat your sci rehes a ct' fo llowing rh e pu ll o f (he WJ~ {(' yaln . NO T}:: IfytJur stitches illY not following the pnth of dJt' U'flSU yafll, r~morJC' thr stitching Ilml Han OVi'r. Do nOI r('move Nnitted wmtr yom umil you t1re illY'
me
fhi' sliuhes {ITt'
in
!IN C017((t SpOt.
Ifyou skip a ,·tileh or miSJ Olle" J[J"(md ofn sti tch.
the two fiat's will no! bi' "Jm ir UJgnhn; and tiN uam will foil apart when tiN knirting is rtmf)IJrd. W
Alternative method: Th is rn(th ud ::tJd $ ~()me eX{fa steps to rh('"
( r-..
Wf1.j/(
di li onaJ mClhoJ , but it seems 10
m;,l.kc lh e uaditional method a bit easier because lhe wo rk is off the needles. srockinet(e srirch in
Aflc.r thC" knining has bcrn cnmplcted, work four rows
or
a co illra.~[ i llg (;olor <:UI(On ya rn . Aind off. Rcpc:.H foc second pjece. Gently press
a nd steam only Ih ~ tOlltr,mlng scirdlC'5 50 Ihey rm : fi at and very s131>1c. Do 110r stt:;l m the rest of the kn illing. The purpose
or tht: waste yarn is 10 ~ holV you
the path ro follow to connect the stitches.
Remove wd51e yaro after sea rl1 ,s compleled.
•
"
•
ii'l
,-
•
79
or_
PAT C H PO C KET SEAMS
GRAFTINC LIVE STITCHE S TO CAST -ON OR BOUND - OFF STLTCHES THI ~ TY. CHNI QlIE
POCK ETS ARE d grea t addition [0 mO~1 sweare rs, bm if anached poorly rhey wil! destroy the perfec.t finishin g you may have dlready accomplished. Patch pockeIs can be any siJ.e, bUI tbe average size for cardigam ~hollid be abou t 5'.
is included in {he grafting or Kitchener sri!ch section
because there are timc$ when one edge will be cast on or hound off and rhe
[0 G" wide by 6" [0 7" long. for mOSI swc:;ners, the bonom of the pocket should be placed abollt 20·' to 22 ·' from the: shoulder, longer for [all men or
Olher edge will have live ~ti{ch es. This is the techniq ue yo u would use to graft the c.lSl ~o n edge of an (-con:! ro rhe live .> titches ,II th e cnd of th e I-co rd. lr could also be u ~d lO apply a parch pocket thar was started with a cast on (see page 24).
women, and about 2" to
pcov i .~iona l
3"'
from Ih c c~ nrc[ front.
IfyOIl
work pockctJ in gttrU'r stitch or seed ,titch it will be easier to hide the pocket seam.s. fie sure II) Icave 11 Ont,·stltch seam allowance at each end ofrhe pock. et border. TIP:
Bcnor.l Sect;:}IY Lve Stitches Top Section: Cast-On or Bound-Olf Stitches (Comrastlng yar[1 L'~ed 101 illustrati on purposes only)
To Work f>lace the pieces, with ng.ht sides up,
so that the stitches on the knitting n eedle
are at the bottom and the cast-on or bound -off sri tC,hcs a l'C' at the top. Thread a }~.Hn needle with a tail of the yarn cornil'g from rh e live Sli rc hes . Insen the needle fro m unclerneuh and upward through the firs t piec.e of yarn of the fim stitch above rhe bind off or G l .', ( on (the twO yarn swmds shaped likc a V). Then insen the ntntle infO the first live stitch on the knin ing n eedle as if to ptlrl and
Benefits Pockets Gtl1 bl" all;].ched "s deco rJrive e1emenr on surfdce of knitting. Pockets th<.lt weren't plan ned from (he beginning of work can lx- attached. \Vorks with all weights of yarn.
lc.wc it o n the needle. ~ [mcn the needle unde r rh e nexi whole StilCh o n the finished edge, then imo (he firsl live stitch on rhe knilling need le as jf to knit.
Drawbacks
IJrop the stitch from the needle. In$err Ihe
t
yam neeJ le inlo [he ne:l;( sti tch on (he kni tting
Must he done in line with th e rows of knitting. Once a row it lll U$r be used C()n~ i s ten tly.
needle as if to purl. uave Ihe SlilCh 0 11 the needle. Repeat from" to • u ntil all sti u.:hes are gon e from Ihe knitting needle and Ih e bound ·
off edge. Finish off.
So
L>dIiw !1 tn a( hi e\·e a )moOth scam line:.
•
IS
chosen
Will desl ro}' a garment if pocket is anached incorrecdy. Rcqui rel> ~ki ll and patience.
I ~ 8.
.' , .
~
~
<0 ,
10 Work
,. ., M
I NSET POCKET SEAMS
Block the- pocket and the piece LO whit:h it will be applied. Pin [h e poc ket in pi;l.ce WIth kniner's saftty pins. Using ::tllOthcr colo r ya rn , prekrably cotton, baste rhe pockt't in plact"
I'< ~
'!OJ
or
pocket JS you would a shoulder ~C2 m. Hitch to sti tch. Weave the OIhe r side of th e pockct a~ YOli worked rhe firH ~ i de. Secure firml y.
rhe patch pocker. Agai n, the d Ullienge is to sew rht" pocket (0 ,he b,u fficnr with.oul di ~ (Ort iJ\g rhe knin in!:. T h e sewing i.~ un rhe inside. so you must be ca rerul that [he stitches do n Of show Ihrough on d1t" right side.
~
an
~ ~
I"'
I NSET p OC KeT S requi re a pocket lillinga nd an opening in rhe gannenr fo r tho:" pocket. This o pening m ust be m;)de as rhe garmenr is being k nit. Tht"" pocket lining is tben sewn o n rhe inside of rhe garment. instead of on the ourside like
,
! ;.
~!
~
Ii! ;;;. ~!~
E ! .
~ I ;;I All .Iltem,nive method for scarring t·he pockc:'t wo uld be {() usc a provisioo:!1 cas! on (see page 24) co knll the pocket , remoVe tht' ca..'{ on, and place the stitches on a knitring needle. WC)lVe (he pocket as describt-J above, but "" hen you get 10 the sti ldle$ on rhe knin ing need le, weavt'" the bottom se:JJll as [hough you were grafting live: .~ r i{(" h cs LO bo un d·off s tit che~ (see page 80) .
~
E ~ ~ ~
I' I' ~
~ ~
t
!5
Rit.'billg for Top of Pocket Openi"8 on Righ\ Side
I ii I, ~ I, I ~ I, ~ I
I ~ l~ VVhlte Pocket lining Sewn to Wrong SIde
;;0: ~ -.
,
~ .
oCkn imng :)I il<:h~ LOgcthc.r ;u rhe bcgi nlll n~ and e.nd of t he pocket , yo u creue less of a hole w hen the pocket is scwn to the w rong side of the garm en t. ([ i5 then e3~it'r to add th e rihh ing or bord er al ,hc wp of th e pocket, and k wing i, TO rhe front is easie.r .l.nd 1e.'05 ohviol!S.
By \\ourking tht, t');lra
Benef its ,
, \i ,
.\101"(' invi~ j h l c
d ian the p;.\\ch pocket. \'(forks well with
~I"C' I)~
To anad l rhe: pockef m ad e with d Iller mcthod above to the inside of rh e
Drawbflcks •
Gn Ix diffic ult to r,ew pockt"t withom showing on the righ t sid~. Pockct opel,it)g rumr he- planned hefo re kn ining piece wh ere pocket
will hc' placed. Bon.lC'f mU<;f ~ kiln {omplC'-tl:d. •
work: Block the pocket and Ihe p i«e ro w hich if will be sewn. Pin rhe pocker in place. Using anot he r colo r ya rn, haste aro und rhe pockel 10 help you sew du' seam straight. hasting one stitch .l..Way from (he ed ge o f the pocket. O n rh..: wrong ~id(' of th e fr.mnent , weaVe the- t:dge Sfirch of fhe p m .kC:1 to
10
rhe running thread between
fbI: rop of the opcning after the g-J rnlem iii
Rt"gllirt'~ ,\ lot of stca !1lin~ to lit' fl al. b ut steaming
m USt
!I!!.
Knit rhe pocket lining to th(' de~ ircd dimensio ns and place the srjtch es on :a hoJdcc; SCI aside. Work g.umem to .I rea where rop ot pocket i.~ to be placed . Kn n to rhe pocket o pen ing, pb<.:c the same num ber
oC sli{(;hcs o n a holder as
were u ~ed for the pockel lining. p lace the pocker-linin.g stitUJcs on rhe left n ee, dle, knit across rhC' pockel st itch('~ and fini sh rhe row. $(.w the pocket tUling down lattr.
An a.h e rn"ui\'e met hud fo r slau illg Ihe pockel would be tu u sc a pravi-
i.
I,
:~
•
To Work
IF I~
simla! cast on (sec page 24), re: movc: the cast on, and ovcrca.:. 1 t'al.h purl bar
ac r OS5
£0
o ne sti.tch b.:fore rhe pocket opening. Slip the
j
I •
I, I
r ocket border: For buth inset-pockel methods, pLw: the sl ileh e..'> on tht' ho lder on , he approprialC'osiud M ill ing ne«tle and wo rk rhe de.\ircd borde'r. Be Stl fe 10 leav~ a o ne·sl ilch St':am al lowd iKe <11 each end. \Weave , he: e:Jgcs o f the border [ 0 tht' from of thC' garment , in line wi lll , he sc;un of the poc:kt':1 worked o n the inside.
I
,
!iii ~ ' !t 1- ! ~
Ihe rig h t nteu lc. Place the ~ame num ber of srilcr.u Ihal \~re:
,i
Ilst'd for rhe pockct lining mi nus tw O from rhe ga rment o n a holder. Place t he
pocket-lin ing stitches o n the left need lt' . Sli p stitch o n rig hr needle back
If)
left
SSK w ith the ne¥.t two sritdles-o ne fro m the garmem and o ne from th e pOl~ker liu ing. Knil to o ne sritc h from rhe c nd o f rhe: pockc( lini ng needle. \'\fork
and kni t rwo cogerhc: r- Ias( sri rt:h from the pocker linmg :md nCXI Sl ilCh from the garm ent. Filtish row.
I~
~ ti llh to a
rhe bottom .
I
AJl ahern alivC' mClhod 1 usc to make: the pocker fit the' open ing beu er is to make the pock~t lin ing two stitChes wide r rhan desired. Pi.Icc rhe stirchu on [Q
p u rl bar o r
o ther side as you worked rhe nm side.
be do ne."
Can be ditli,:ul r 10 mardt rhe St"J.!ll for th e pocket bord er and the se'am on the in sid e- to an.teh che pocket.
a h older and set a,~ ide. Kn it
d
as you work down the side. Al (he
botlom . whipsrilch fro m .l. p url b.u to the C
cardully so it doc~ not A.men work.
nex t stitch
fWO ~{ i t ches
!I ~. "
I
•
,Y
.II
Fro nt 01 Garment Placed on Stitch Holde r Kni t across pocket.
...
,. ' \
. . .<
~
Pl KING liP "TJTClIE.
,
~
for
n ~c.kba n d5> artl1h o l ~,
edge is the \.l5f m:p in finish ing a ga rmem.
IF ir
or any
i~ do ne poorly, it w ill
sh ow (('nib ly. In general, the knilling of (he band~ is done: in .. nother dir...~r io n rha n the kniuing of the garm cnI and ir is in a new st itch pil n ero ,
SO
(h(' eye wi ll go to :\1), ('flor s madt'o Nc:c.kbands, ~i n ce they Jte k)QI[ed righ t IImler yo ur face. are generally rhe fi rst Thing on yo ur sweater a pe rson might look
.H .
and you wa nt them
In
be: perh~c T in fi r and appear ance.
T he most POPUI,;(f And s u CU·S•..flll \Voly (0 pick LIp srirchC's is (0 knit the: new s d (c h c~
JU St
lilY=: nor mal knitti ng,
b UI
with a kniuing
need le in du: right ha nd and tht' g;J,cmenr in the' leiT h~lld. Even if you are
a continental kJ li uer, you will find this technique tbe t'asiest
HllL~t"'.
r xm'( lty to I.Hck lip ~ Ii(e lle-~ with \ ne y:lrn in yom left hand: in your left hand yo u el n't hold Ihe yarn in Ihe correct position to bring the- new iti tch th ro ugh . H o ldi ng
It
in dl(' right hand allows you
[U
knitter's safety pins_ fo ld a ~ecli o ll in half :l nd m ark, fold
e
q uan ers ,m d m ark,
rion. lr will also mil)imiu- Ihe n umbe r of "fitch es you have
t()
ri p
OIl{
if yo u
don't havt' (he correct num ber of ~ t i (ches al the end . You'll on I)' hav!!, to rip
I! '
OUI
a sect ion if you J on'r have {h e correct numtxr of ~ri l (.he5 in it, :.nd ,hal'S
~l
t"asier than ripping Olit the' entire «Ige and Harting OVt"T.
I!:!
~ !
I E" I Oil to!
ii Oil
E"
There: are' Cd.KS w llt're you wuuld pick up Sl itches lIsing a l.ombinarion o f all of Iht' following te(.hrHq ue~ . An :lCm holC' on a "C.~ ( is rhe be.n ex,unple .
First, use safety pi ns TO m.llk off the' st raight e"d ge" of th t" armhole .lbovc rhe decrease'S into th ree or fom seCi iom. SIJ rtin g at the sid e ~am, pick up t:Vtry sti tch acroH the" bound-ofT s( ifc.hc~ at the b.l~t"" of the armhol... and e'\'E'ry sri tch o n tht"" u lfyed ed ge wht-re the d c.cft",ISes .m :. Then pick up three stiu.:hes out of fnu r rows from the ~ Ha.ig1H edge of the ~ r mhol e
ro pIck up stitch es . When ,his happe,u , in ~ert the k nini ng needle inro the th e pud ba r of the ~lil Ch or row /l e'X"t to it, :m d kni t th e:
In
a nd so on. Th i.~ will bel p yo u pick up th ( .~a m e llU mher of ~lil (.h es in each st'c-
Occ:1sion.l lly you may find loose auas in rhe kni tting where you !leed \11'
row, knit or purl into (he bad< of .he ~ti{ch to help lighun
modates rhe diffe'rc nr ~d tc h and f OW g..lUge as well 25 makc~ rhe curves lie Aar. When iI. pauc rn (e n ~ you how m any ~Ii(ehe~ III pick u p, lise the- above formula, nUl i( i.\ also helpful (0 d ivid( the: t'd ge Inw sm alit'.1 -SeCtiom. Using
does n't tell you, always pick up 5lilCht:S from th e righl side of the wo rk.
kn itt ing, pick
Mi tch or twO i~ loose' or :a hole
eve ry fo Ul slitches on ~ WU gIH edges, or dgili n.\;1 edge~ w ith rows. Thi s accom-
to!
pull b;lCk on the )'arn ,
helping the n ew Sll l Ch "pop" through the k nitting. The gener.d Tule is to pick up stitches wirh ,hc riglu side of th t"' wo rk fa e· Ing. Thert ,n e .l few exceptions: in ~o mt" collars, for instance. Bill if the pallern
"" ,
In gene ral. Ihe formul;t fo r p ickin g up stitche) is to p il.k up eve: ry ~ ritch
I! stilchc~
flt:"Xt
. "
or row on c
~
f' l<":KINC up
is forming in the'
.d
... ,.
it up. You can o nly dn this on m e: fir st row after pj<:king up the stitcheS".
I!r
I NE.RAl.lY,
If YOll find afte:r I,icking up 5Im.:h e:. {hat
" , ,., t .
("0
dlC ~ ho u ld cr scam.
Rcpe
(WO
st itc hes together.
t! I!i.
~!.iI ~! ~ I~
n um ber, lh e edges wi lh de" c rC J ,\(,_~ sho uld h:we the same ll umbC"r. and the
sU;ligiu edges sho uld havt" the $.1 me number.
1 ' lrl;:'''' I~
~
TO WORK
~
< 1, 1 "
'"
PI C KING UP STITC HE S ON AN
~
WI1' H C IR C U LAR needl ~$ for large a reas, or a snaighl needle lor small :lreal>, "insen ,he needle into Ihe knitting, wrap the yun aro und (he' needle, and bring [he II ("\',' stitcb th cough. Repeat from ' umil you have picked up the desired nu mber of ~md,es. II will fee! like yOu a re pullinl:j rhe knitting iu Ihe lcfc h and over rhe new stilch, nOI like rhe new SliKh is com ing Ihro ugh rh e kni [[ ing a ~ il would normally come thruugh a slirch on the lefr Ilttdlc.
•
EDGE W ITH ROWS OF KNITTING
lE XAM I't.E S:
I-
Part ofll nrck or JLee~ apming. or thr firml band ofa cttrdigtln,
INS E.RT fi l E kll ilt il\g needle between twO purl bars, on e st itch in from rhe
l-
~dge. Pi ck up stitches across ,he edge, inseni ng the knitting nenUe. berwecn th(' purl ba r~ fOJ the e mire edge. U~e {he ratio of pi~k.ing up rhree ~{ir ches OUi of \!Very four rows. 00('(, yOll havc chosen (1 1(, row in which yo u arc picking up
I;,
~
.
s l i ICh c.~, do nOI change. Remain in that row for Ihe emire edge .
l< iP Ii' t!: 1
PI CKI NG UP ST ITC HES ON A
1iL ·
PICKING UP STIT C HES O N AN
BOUND Off EDGE
1iJ!
EDGE WIT H DECREASES
E XAM l> LE : [ NSI! R r T 1iF.
From I)r back nrck
knitting necd.lC' ioro tbe cC"mc r
bO/ll1d·oJJJtilch~s.
of
rhe hrsr ~ ( i rc_h . which looks like'
a V. P(Ck ul' fh e Hitch as l..Iircc.tcd above'. Cont inue acrCl~s rhe edge, picking up
Ollt" .~I itch into cach bound -off sm eh a'-ro~. There will be the yarn of the V be(Wceu t adl pick«l -u p st itch.
{V.'(J
srr:mds of
~! ~!ii ~!-'i ~! I,
!~
!i!! Ii! ! .,
- I~ 88
! ~
I
EXAMP LES:
W H £N YO U
V 1Ir t'Ns, or tlrmholr rdgt:S.
have wo rked d cc n:'as e~ wilh a o ne-srirch
.« '.1m
allowa nce, in ~e rt
Il1 r neeJ lr umlr T ;( whole stitch for the seam allowancc between the purl bats .I:nd pick up rhe' ne'w stirch, Remem her to pick up all slilc.h e~ le(lving the one.!>tilch M:!vagc. If YOli dun'( pick u p whole stitches on {he edge. thq will no! appear neal and hole!! will fo rm o n the body of Ihe 5we~' f.'r because Ih e weigh! .
~ 1 "~1""
,0
\
,"
r
"1 11I ~'
p-
·' •
. ' . ' . . ~. . .. !.I"'" ~.I
,
~ .,.t~' ·' • t ••
• ' .. ' ••• '1t 'll,I',,",. ...;;.~jl ... •
• . •
f
, .• ,' ,
Stitches Picked Up o n Curved Edg e with DeCfeolse§
~i· ·· .·.·.t
.. '~'.'.'.t •• •
~. ...l~._ . ""T"t. ...
t • ' • ' • '
Shtche5 Picked Up on V Ned! with Deueases
.
RORDERS. BAND AND fiNISHES
..."" IO!.
Ii! Ii! ii!
knilted n eeds somt" ki nd of a border or ba nd ro (Teatt' a fin ished look an d to make ,h e edges lie Aat. You l:;<' O ;lnach (h e.s<;: LJ(C~ r or kn it d U :' il) ~im\l l un t'Ous! )' wi lh [h e piece. L MOST EVf . RY f H I NG
ii!
Theft' ace ~ e\'e raJ mcdlOd s y Oll can lise to work J border or band ; mallY o f them a re m j\itarian 3nd som e of th em arc' jm t pl.~i n fun . E:!(;h on e h 3~ in pbce; it
""'
f!!
al l depends on wh~! you're kfli ning and what you lVant (he lilli ~ hed piece 10 look like. An example of Ih is i.~ when J. ganer-stirdl hand 's k n it ~ t ,he same
e: Oil
lim..-;1.S the fro nt of a s!O( kjn e'tl e-~t i tch t:a rdigJ n. Becaus(" ga rter .H itch has mo re row.s per inch tha ll s{OckinetlC', it wi ll be ,~ h on e r Ihan the stocki nette ~ecct j o ll .
!i Iii! !i (i .it
It l.1n be blocked to match in moS[ cases, hm not alw.lYs . The p u rpose of the from hands is also to keep Ih .. edges from wll mg. O ften when gan er sti tch i ~ used fo r Ih e borde r with a ~tock inettc bod)', it has to be very w ~dc to keep th e edge Rat. Th~ best medlO d ~ fo r al'plyiog band s arc to pick u p ';(il ch{'~ and work th e band Out fro m ,he g,Hmem , o r co kni t a band ~pa ratel y and <;('w if o n.
p Sl;:ches PICked Up lor Round Neck
SW hes Pcked Up lor Armhole
EO
I~ ! .!i ,~ ! ~ II!i ! ~ :~ L~ !~ I~ I! ~ !! iii I! ~
I" ~ ~
Some bord ers ca n be kn it along with the body of the knitting. Stu tb is method doem 't wo rk fot all ed ge~, A bo rder can end IIp being too short for Ih.c length or the g~ rmc l1t, which WI ll pull u p the gann ... n t edge'. T hese fi ni~ hes il re what wi ll make you r kni( ga rment beau ti ful. Unfo rlUnarcly. if they are d on e poorly, they can rui n th e g.umcm. Yo m kn itring skills will real ly shine when you take the dmc to le:>oro and work Ih c~e c(Jrrcu ly.
."
.. "
'-
'''
~
ij (I II h
r
~ ~.
t< ~ '" " •
~ ~"
,, ' ,, ' ...
~
,
HEM S DrawbackJ A
can help a ga rme nt drape nicely, especially in a lo ng coat in a med iu m to worsted-weight y.u n. H owever. a hem ca n also add bu lk to rJle bouom edge. To ke::cp the ;Hid~ thickness to a minimum. work ,he area (h at tu rns unde::t all a needlt' at leasl rvm sizes ~ maJI (!1'.
C.1 n be- th ick. requi r(') a 1m of Steami ng to lie Aal.
H F. M
•
TakCcS more :r.HIl than .. ri b or g:meHlitch borde r wo uld . MuS{ be wo rked on smaller need le rn ,s l a rt .
To work Ihe hem and make it rno~ invi.s ible, knit the:: cast-on Stitches logerher with the hem sl;\'ches (see page 93). To seam ;l he m ~ nd rhe 5ide sea m, sean) (hc hem n n;r ;u td (hen the ~ jde scam .
• ','1,., ..,,;....-.. " • .':~.;:.. ., ~ ~: ,
.'
,
"
;
":',
c
.
, • • ." " • r
'
,
"
"
·
~'i~.\ijlj~~(fif;;'j
Hem WIth Stockinene Fold Lr'e
•
Hem with Ptrr1 Fold l ine
Iii~
To Work
I!!
Iii
~
~
! ;11 I
il!. • •
~ :aI E!~
:I!i IE
Hern WIth Picot Fold line
Bentji" Film borda replacn tibhin~ or an y border slitdl
• \X.:()rk~ well o n ;1 garmt'llr that does ~Ot nC"Cd ro be Arted:ll bonom edge.
• \'(~orb on g.umt'llr lower o.lgc.s as well as o n hands at neck an d froru . \\:,ork~ with at? ~!ilch pauem, but '<;{Qckincm stitch is rhe preferred p;!ttern. • \X.orks well With mo~r wc.ights of yarns. 91
C IIl pu ll lip , he length of the garmelll ; be sure to measure accurately. Will not lie Rat if h<."Tll ill less than l/i wide; will roll ro (he knit ~ide. R
,
·.. ·JI.:.'" '.' ".1; . ,,' "~' ,.' q • :-i~)~I~.",'''''~· ,: .. ,f",";'t','.I.,
l ake~ mort' than u.m al amou nt of time .
l iii
~
IE ii' '!ill It!! dl t!
:! .. ! fO I! ./'i !! I,. ! ~ I! i~ !! 'I' I!
Stockinette fold line: Using Ihe p rovision al cast o n (page 24 ) and needles twO )izes smaller than cal let body stirch by itself Cominuc in p .. rrern on Iaeger needle.
.··· ......... . .. '· .·.·R .·.'·.· . .' .
.~ ,
~. '-,.,
.
,. . .
Knit stitches from the f10nl and bdck needles together. Pml (old line: Work as ahclVc, but when changing back
(0
(he original nct'dle,
wurk a purl row o n ,he right side o f the wCl rk. Fi nish as ahovt'. Picot fold line: Work as abnve. but when changing back (0 rh t' o riginal net'· die:, work as follow s o n right ~ id{' for {'vcn n urn hl"r of sti(chc_~: Knit on e. (yarn over, k ni t rwo togethe r) .1CrO!>5, end with knit onc. O r for odd nu m ber of stitches: (Knit twO toge ther, yarn ovc r) across, end k nit one. Finish as above.
93
11 " R 0; •. " .'
B .,
~
,; ,
, ;.. n
l' i "
..
j , ;, ; . ,
FOLDED OR HEMMED NECKBANDS U~ING
THlS lechl1lque will re.mlt in a neckband that is easy (0 pull ov('[ the head. I[ aha kave~ a more professional looking finish. W'orking 111 rhe round on circular needles means no seam, whICh will make the band smoother. This technique mirrors a hemmed border at the bottom of the garment.
" " "- " '. R'
Pick up tht' required numbe-.f of stitches around thc neck. If you are working in rhc round, be sure to plCk up the corren multiple of stitchcs for the panern you h,we chosen. For example, pick lip an even number of sritches for knit one, purl one, or a multiple of four sutches for knit two, PUrilWO, If working with a seam, leave a ~dvage stitch at each end. Work the ribbing or pattern stitch as directed. When band is wide enough, change to smaller needle:~ and work a fold lille of your choice, or one [hat matches the hem at bottom edge of (he knitting (sec page 92). Continue partern s(l(ch for same Humber of rows as for the front of the band. Do not hind off. Cur yam approximately duee til11 e~ the- diameter of the neck opening, and whipstitch each stitch down loosely, covering the selvage remall1ing from picking up the stitche'i; nilish otT Pull all( on (he neckband as you work the whips[itching to be sure It is suetchy and you arc nor sewing too tightly.
V ~ ~
..
l"' 10£ On wrong side, note that band covers edge wh ere stitches were picked up.
A'<" 1,,- , , ,, ,,
/0 Work
~
"'-
R:ght Side of Hemmed Neckband
g . "" ,
iii' 1;0. ~
Benefits •
•
Com/ for crew l1ec bi: res ults in a neekband easy ro pull ave! head. Com\ for chlldrcn's and baby swe:uers. I.eaves ~rno() t h fi nl."h at the neck. Pbc cs morC' Im irt ing at th e nec k edge, wh ere (here is grealer wear. \~'o r ks well with a)l weights of yarn. Used wah urcular ()]' fLu bands. em he worked in s[Qckinwe or ribbing.
Drawbacks Take'i more than usual amount of time. t'\'('ckband i, heavi er and thicker than a typical single-layer ribbed or g
94
Ioi Ioi
l!:
...,-,
~
l'
!!
t!'
i!!
Ii<
iii.
(0::
.
t!i<
'"
VVhi pstrtch neckband to inside of neck edge.
TI)Js technique [tin be used fo r front bands ofcmdigans too, but it is quite thick for button hands and buttonhole band.,. Buttonholes would neat to he pla.ced In both hands and sewn fogethei with buttonho/-e stitch.
NOTE:
-J
~
t!i<
~
to<
-""
~
~
J"
~
. 95
H n","~R"
~
D, ,,, u,
... ro
,,-
r''''~H I. >
KNITTED-ON BUTTON BANDS T HIS IS one of the most commonly used burton band s. Rih bi llg is t he mOSt
~
is too long fo r the body o r edge o f the g:'tCm em . "loo few sl itches and the hand
~
will nor hang pro perly. In generaL when wo rking the band in ri b bing, you
for all weighls o f yarn e)(cepr bulky yam : with b ulky yarn il m ay be necessary
~
011 evcr)' row because th" row a.nd sri tch ga uge:.: arc mo re
similar.
bo n om edge- fro m pulling up aT the (rant. Work ribbing o r stitch partern fo r the band; bind off loosely. A hemmed h:lOd could be wQ[ked hc.re as weU (sec
page 92).
..~
st i t ch c.~
nllmber of stiKh~ on edge (5« page SG) using a one-Stitch seam allowance. Pick. up every stitch in the rih bing o r border 3t rlu' bou o m edge [0 prevent the
V
should pick up (hree stirches Jor c.vc.-ry four rows o f knilling (U gel Ihe correc.t rat io o f stit..:hes in \"he band .'Iud rows in the hody. This for mula will work
to pick up
f )
Using swea ter yaIn and needle used fo r holto m border, pick up .. ppropriatt"
~
.
11.,) > . ., .. "
To Work
...
common stitch ~d, but garter stitch and seed stitch will work 2S wd l. For a more eI,,~ tit: edge. use knit {\VO, pu rl tWO ribbing instead of knit olle. purl o ne. T he biggest p ro blems with kni n ed·on buuo n band s come fro m picking u p too m:lIly o r 100 fcw STi tches. Too milny stitches wi ll res ult in a ~ n d that will be roo ShOH and pu..l! u p fro m the bo nom and down from the tOp, :md
II () "" " , A'
iii ~
ts:
Bene/£tJ t
• • t
"l en d~
he easier th.m orh t'r m ethods fo r most knitters. Easy to work bu((ollho!t'~ iow the ba nd . U:.cd to wmm! tilt.' .:urvc;' on the edge of a piece of knitting. Work.s wdl with ;:,11 w.:i~hls of yun. [0
•
Ii
Picked up stitches are worKE'd i"I tibb;"g on tr.e left, ganer stitch on the right
~
/-"rJr garur Hitch band;, bind off 1)11 wrollg f,id~. ,"renting t/u kISt /"idg~ and !(,(IVing the uirc/m renwmillgftom billdi"J, offo71/he wrong Jid('.
T I P:
II!! Drawbacks •
E.uy
•
l)so one
to
pick up tOO TnW
lll.lIly
(oi
Or roo few s t i tc h e..~.
of Imin ing for pic.kt'd -up stitc.hes; nlay requi re a sd v~t'
I!'
q itt'b fo r .1 complett" p.1({C.fI1 stitch to be left o n the body. t
For.1 folded hutton holc h:lOd, you must work bu ttonholes on bo th outer and innN J.iyt"N hefore sewing band together. rogerh rc with h u tron ho!e stitch.
Sew b uuonholes
IS t!i:
J!O
IS ~
J
~ ~ ;jj
·· ······ P. .. ," .. .• ,' " "
I!lIl!.ltl
SEWN - O N BUTTON BANDS
~~
I'.''' '' '
'A"" " •. • ,," .
To W0rk \V!th ex.isting stitches from ribbing: In mOSt c:.a5eI., iM(ru c{ioll ~ tor this td:h· niqut" will direct yOu to ea~{ on enough Hitches for th .: holtom band and the froll{ band. After the ribhing fo r th e Ixmom hand is oornple:tw. place the sri tches for the frollt b:Uld on ;l holder an d knit the body of thc ga rment as directed. When (he Ixxiy is cnmplered, place the s[ itch~ for the fro nt hand. which are on the hulder, on the smaller ribbing needle. Cast on one ~ [:itdl using cable: CJ$ l on:lt the inside edge, leaving:t long tail with w llich to s.ew t ~e band ro the body late r. Continue in fibbing as set, w(')fking exrr;t sm eh In SlOckim:tte ~ titc h . ~\Vh e n it appears that you have most of the ribbing completed for the fro nt band , pi n the band 10 tht" front edge. Begin weaving .the seam rogether (liCe: pa.ge (4). using one sti rch of tot" body and the extnl smell
T It IS 1~ a wonderful techn ique for any cardigan, bm you mus! plan ahead
Ix:x:ause you need co starr rbe band when che ribbing fOf {he bOllo m band is worked . A(taching rhe band ft1u ires (~1.fefu l sewing ~ tna{ {he seam is abso lutely j nvi,~ i h l e. Add an exIra stitch fo r a seam allowance on the border to m:lke il e:lsit".r ru ~ew [0 the garment.
~
Ii!: Ii!:
added to (he ribbing;
Ii!: I!-
It
should march row hy
( OW,
~ Button Band Worked with
Button Band to Edge
EXI<,ring Stitches from RIbbing
without b isting StitChes
Benefi" C rt".It(·~ a
vt"ry (inn border.
E~
I! E ~
Se:m1 i~ vi rtLully invi, iblt" when used wit h a seam 'l llowan(.('. Wo rks , ..ell wi rh all \veights of yarn.
E
•
( :on t rol~ du' curvt" on the edge of a pi ece of kn itting.
E
•
WOlks with :1 v
• •
Drawbacks Requires !,roci$('" ....--wing. •
MtlSt be kni t firmly to ~up pOrt edge o f garment.
Jf rnad~
long, lilt" fro nr edgt" will hang tOO lo ng; if made too shOrt, the fro nt edge will bt" ( (')0 shon and pull up the bouom edge. Button hole piacemt"nt is ge nerally calculated aft er the garment has bet"n cum ple-rcd, but you may need to make a buuonholc whil(" the hOltom border is bcing kn it. toO
t!:
If you coun ted rows o n the body and rows on rhe border, the st";lIn should
~
IS I tS. •
~! ~! ~
!
'" !I
match pe rfec dy, You SllouJd not have to sm:tch Ihe band very mueh; Ihe rib· bins i ~ shorter because it was worke.d on a smaller needle. If you fin d that rhe band is n Ot lying ~([ ai~llI and Oat against rhc:: hody of Ih t" gJ.rmem. adjust th e ~t'am by worki ng unJer two purl bars iflstea.d of on e. You can add rnor(" to the fro nl-b:lnd ribbing if it is (00 short. or re.move rows if it is roo long. Bind (Iff". Wi tbout ex.isrin g sti[ches: Ca.~{ on tht" required number uf stilches for the from band plus one CX[ r;! stitc h for a ~am allowance. wnrk.cd in stockinette sfi tch. \'(fo rk in ribbin g or pancrn stitch. Proceed from' to • aOO\,t" .
99
f "" I~
Tn Work
I, I
The knining should have a firm edge (Q which you can a tt;lch rhe u ppe.r. Ei,her a r","o -:;,i Kh selvage or ::I row o r single crochel will wo rk well. Pin the zip per in position : be sure the borders m,l(eh at the bolto lll whe.n the z.ipper
~ !
is closed.. Normally, tht zipper would lx- covered wirh rabric ~o i, docsn'l ~ h uw, b ur rhis is di ffi cult wid, a knit·
Z lPP ER S S E PA RA'rI.\;G 'lj'I'E RS aTC.t wond erfu l ~hcrn .HivC'
, [0
bultons.
A hC'
?I ppt' r, sudl a.~ those ust'd in o UlerwC'a r clothing, is the perfect add it ion
£0
a
hulky jacket. !'he fmllt will d ose wi ,hoU{ gaps
edge o ut of shape. lr is ~o easy to stretci, the !willing when inserting a zipper chat care must be take n to bt: sure the ripper firs the edge. w ithou t st retching £Ill:" kni n ing.
Pla,\:Tie sep;u
c:::=J= . ~._._____. ._,._"'._ r·c---I_
-- ---.-·---- I.: -..,.· - -
1
Good aitr fll.l li vr 'when a ga rment is fo r b uttons.
..
lIst'd a.~ d~C"Ot",u i\"(' ,d(~ rn a li vc
[0
tOO
smalj tu ovedap in the fro nt
b unons.
Drawbacks D ifficult to kt'cp l ippr r in positi on while Sl'wing. Kniu ing COln ~ [ rc rc h while ~cwin g in l ip per.
S\\ ~.lt('t i~ either open or closed ; un like with b uttons, yOll can', d ose JUS t one: 'He-~. \X!ill ma ke front bands a lillie stiffer and t hicker.
S~I the. ooge o f rhe kn iu ing::ls
d ose as you e m ' 0 th e zipper. B
IE
I
of the ~jpp er. Be ea rcfultht' srifc hing d oesn'r .~how o n the
llii
Ii
or rhe zipp<"r with sm,d l srilchcs lhat won t show, alsu
I~
,
right sid e. On rh(' right side. sew the kniuin?
iii
! !i ! iI .~
•
,e.e,h o r [he zipper. Try to
~ I II!! I
I~
(;rc.-.lt tur he'Hirf jackets.
tcd <'armenr hecaust the kni tting tends co CHeh in tht
IE ' ~
:.:, ;S;.v. c
Benefit.'
'00
~
Iii
usi ng matching seo.ying
10
the tdge
thread. Re move the basting. If
one sid e does nOt matd, d,t' 01 her side exanly, re-st itch it .
I iii I,
I! ~
:~ ! iii
:~ !
If ~ I ~ II ~ to
Baste to Iront.
8ac kstitch ~jppel wrong '\Ide.
lo
Over«lst ~ge of knitti ng
10 rig"l side.
I~ II ~ .~ ! :~ I
." l! o;,
! ~ I ! iiI II
101
IIOlnfl'
11''''' $.
A ... "
Ilo.!"> r.~s .
j"' N r."~.,
6 ., "'U5 .
':'0
1:'0<,.,>1 1.$
To Work
ATTA C KED I -CORD
\'Vith picked -up stitches: O n the hound-o fT o r cm-on ed ge, pick up every TH IS TE CHN ' QU.E l~av~ 5 a luvely venically knir rolled cdg~ rh : u covers a
bound-off area . It can be used to finish a CO!i :H, pocket, or horder. Applied I_ card, a version of this border, can be applied u nifo rmi ty (seC" JY.Ige 56).
TO
th~
e.dges o f Ihe garm elll for
l f yo u arc wo rking I-co rd aro u nd an ed ge wh ere rhe i ·cotd wiJl need [ 0 be seamed , d o nor bi nd off when compic(e(\; sew f WO ends of the I-cord logethc:r by graft ing Ihe Gl!It-o n edg~ needle ($C~ page 80).
10
rh~ live Stilches still o n
rhe
stitch using il circula r needle the size rhe bining was worked in. O n an edGe wi lh rows, pick UI) thrl!e our of four ~ t i ({: h t:S lIsing Ihe $a mc need le as :Ihovc. Wilh rhe kniui ng in the I~ft hand ,
CtS I
on three stitches using tilt"" cable cast
on (page 14). "'K nie!Wo sli rches, pulling rhe yarn tightly across rllt" back (If[he rhrer stirches, fo rmin g a lube, work SSK with the l a ~ r sfirch of the three stitch es j usl cast o n and one sti tch from the picked up ~ I ilc h es. Slip the throe ~l ilCh· ('$ j usl kni t back to (he lefl need le .lnd rep~r fro m · U)uil..J1 st itCh es that were p lcke~:1 \: p :IfC used .
Benefits \X:'orked ~:s .m edging. ,lfle r stirchc:s arc bound olT,
Of Olt
the edge of
knirrinj!. Crc-ate~ ~
dc-t·orariyc- edgl.'.
Usefu l fo r milking b UII()nhulC"~ (see p:lge LI I) w hile a(( ~c hing the I-cord til ..1 from edgC".
\X'orks wd l with .III
w~ig.hI 5
of yarn.
G entr.l ll~· workC"d over three slilc.hes, but ca n be worked on
AtTamed '·Cold Worked with Stilcne-s on Knlnlng Needle tWo 10
five )tireht's d\.'pmuing un weight of y;\r n. C,\11
With no srilc.h es o n knining needle: Wi lh rwo do uble-poimcd needles, same
be wQrknj on right or wrong side of knitting.
siZt' a.~ used fo r knitt ing, ca H Oil due<." Hi tches. Do not turn : ~Jide sriu:h r:;s to
Drawbarks i\l m.t he w()rk~d loo}dy o\·("r .1 large area, or it will t
Ol USt'
rhe kni ni.ng
pucke r.
c.uy
to
pick lip
t OO
many o r
100
few stitches.
rJJ.: ~ m(ltt" ~"arn than pattern may
(.;,til
for.
Adds lime to fin ishi ng process.
TI p : It IJ Impnnnnt to work the n.II/1.rh~d I-cord loos~{-y u/()l/gh m that you dnn't pudur thl' cdg~ 0/ fhi' knining. To do this, liSt' (I nudle TWO $iUl/tlrgn ()1. mort' in tlu right hllnd. tbptmding on what you an: attaching thi' {-cord. For I'XI1mpil', UJ htlp IT ihnwl ro/In, Ulzy jlat, Uflrt out with (I tmnlll'T nudlc in tbe right hllnt( thell su>irrh u) d/arg"T l1udk aJ jfJU W()rir fhl blUk oflhe co/lor. Tht wrgn- nudlt' (an be Ill' 10 rhru or [oM .,iU$ IArg" than Ilu origiM! needlt. 102
other end of need le. "Knit tWO st itchn, pu ll il'g yarn tightly across Ihe back to make a rube. slip Ihe third .~ ritc h , and pick Il l' on e sti tch illw rhe k.nill~d edge :lnd pas.~ the slipped Sl iH:h over. Slip I h ~ rhru srit c.h es jusl kn n ooc.k to the left needle and repeat from · umil edgc: is covered with I-cord . B~ c:n~.ful nOt 10 pick up st itch es 10 0 do)e togclhe r or too (:lr ap,U( . (Sec ~ Pi cking Up St itches··, page 86.)
Il()~ll.a ' .
li"":l~.
A"I)
I'''''~''J$
"'-
SLlI' STIT C H C ROC HET y O L"
CAN
use :.Iip stitch c rochC:t alo ne-
Of
as (he fo und:uion fo r orher crocher
stitches. \XTh cn used ~ I one on the etlgc ofkniu ing, it will
nOl
keep :.rock inem:
~ [it ch from roll ing. It it a very useful rechni,-!wt for kttping shou lders and Hcck from sagging with tbe wci~h{ of the sleeves or froll! loose.- kn ining.
\~
....""
IIf.
•
I ~-
!l"' '''
.,<"j)
r 'NI ~ wf;
To Work \X/o rk from righr to left with the righ t side or wro n.g~ ide of the knirring fa cing
.,.
you. rnsen hook into knitting, yarn over hook, pull loop of ya rn through. ' Insert hook into next srir<.:n of knining. ram over h ook, pull loop of yarn " u ough rhe 5ri(ch and (he loop on rhe hook.' W hen using f"Or shoulder or neck rein force men t, use a hook .:Ine to two si"£es smal ler than 'he kn itting nee-
!!l
d le and work through both layers of seam allowlI.ncc. with finn stitches. fU-pe31
I~ ~
R'Jio.ii~i<~
:1
from· to • for widrh of s~aJO , finish off".
Ins.e1"1 hook into stitch, yam over hook.
Inse rt hook into stitch, yarn over hook.
SlID !>til'h (rochet to bound-off edge
Benefits C~m he u.~cd to ioin (.'r()(:h e.-L
0.
row of Single <.: rucher. indud ing a:verst" single
C m be.- u~t"d to tcinfon::e necks .lIld should ers of garmcncs.
~
e ' iI
.e
! !II
•
Cm he.- used lX'fote
•
c.'\n he mt
!oi
ha~
I! it ~ I! iii
•
3
row of reyerse single em elle!.
no strC"tdl.
C m be \\orked wllh righE ~id e or wrong side faci ng.
Drn wbllck, •
Fih)" [()
work too lightly. (Bu( sh ould he worked finnly when used ro
sr:1 bilizc ~holl lJer
•
Sl'.Irt1S. )
{·;Il1.~C e.-dgc~ o f" knirring corre'\.{.
CUI
If used
.IS
(0
pucker if spacing of q itch cs is nor
an edging, will nor stretch.
E
~ t~ IS
I!~
E I! 11 I!i
Pul1 100p of yarn th rough stitch ilnd loop on hook.
I! it
'Jo join single (.lachet, insert need le under rhe chain at rhe lOp of Slileh to be joined.. Pull up a loop of yarn and p ull th roug h loop on the hoo k. Finish off.
TH': 10 ("omparl' crochet /wok to kniui,,1. nudle, lISt'tI nudle gllttge. 11lIat du (foehn hook into the hole for the s;:a thllt is two s;:zn smaller tha1/ tlu Jminillg nadlr UJrd. You can compare the lIIillil'fltur liz('1 of the kninil1g nudli's amI the rro,·hr:t h(jok; 011 the need!1! gaugi'.
I! iii
E!I •
I• I
105
IlO k n f l ' .
Ii~:..",.
~""
r'''''''l '
0
I'" , ,I
~
SI N G LE C RO C H ET T H I S V IOR Y
!Oimple technique can be 3dd ed
[ 0 :Ill y
I'(!lilled ed ge rh a, won't end
up in a seam, it requi(es more tha n ooe (OW 10 keep a stocki nette e
~
I ~
~
,
i
1,
,I
~
B ... .
I!'
•
Can h<- fi rrn or lacy. Ro th decorative and Uli li tari:U1 . PI OVldN
good bJSC'
ror ocher crochc-t «Iges . or
Can be dilll,uh to work correct r3 UO crochet stitches to kl1 iu ed S li l Ch ~ (set" " Pickint; up Sri(chcs,M page 86 ). Correspondi ng ("dgt"~ .>hould ha ve same number
•
Ii
r"" Wf .•
Work.s with all wrights of ~·arn. Ea~~' 1O add buuonhok." l~er p.tge J 1 1).
•
E:
,~ "
Pcrl<"C[ border option fo r knitted ed ge ~ .
Drawbacks
,~
t\ " " ,
Benefits
1
E.
"' M ~ .
II extra sril<.-hC"1> :.IlC"n't \\oorked On('"
row of ~ jngl C"
or s(i(chcs .
corners, ,he corners will ro ll. crochet will nOf ku p stockinelt£ st itch from rollin g . 03 1
.E: One Row of SlIlgle Crochet
:I!
To \Vork
'I'
I~
I! ill !! !jj
Iii IE I~
110
Ii"
!iI
!~ I•
Ii!
~ ! .i!
~ 006
hook
i nfO
!ii
t!! !i! ~
to le fT wilfl rJl e righ t side of the knining faci ng you. Insert knilling. y.un ovc-r hook. pull loo p of ya rn th rough rile kni n ing co Ihe (roil( , ya rn over hook a nd pull it Ihro ugh rhe hrsl loo p. ~ Jn se rr hook in to n a l \l l1(;h o ( knJ ll lng. yam over hook, pull loop of ya rn through rile ~ ti lc.h , yarn over hook and pulllhroug.h bot h loops on hook. Repea l fro m ~ to end o f row. Skip o r .ldd slirc.hcs if n('cessary to keep the edge Rae.
Work fro m righl
I• I•
,.. I• O! I
,
- - - . ,-,-, -,- .',','.','.'"
""."",."
Insert hook into stitch, yarn over hoo k. pull loop through to front, yarn (Ner hook.
Pull loop through bot h lOOps o n hook.
To work multiple mw.~ of ~ in gJ c crochet, TU rn [he work al (he e nd of Ihe row, chaw o ne, and work as above, inserting hook und er both l oo p~ of d Ie V lying on its side at the top edge o f th e prev i o u ~ row.
107
!l,}~"',~<.
[S •• ""
••
A""
r,,,,,,,,.,
H(jRI;'R ~ .
l<·,,., l j ,
' '''Ii
~ T"> fI£~
REVERSE SINGLE CRO C HET
Benefits
OR CRAB STITCH
Used a.~ nnil l fini~h [0,\ row of not·het OT kni tt ing. Cre,Hes rha rming border lor necks and from edges. Simple to work nn allY knit or nocher edgeo \'{rorks wdl with ,Ill weights of yarn.
THIS STITC H is wo rked for only one row and is a fin al edging. It adds a finishing rouch ro any piece of knitting. No furrher cro(;het (;an be- added afrer
this row. To finish off, join first and last stitcll widl a sli p stitch if don e in rhe round , or finish ofT and weave in end~ if done on straighr edges. This sritc,h by irself will no t ad d a lot of width to the border and will not keep srocki nenc stiu.;h fro m ro lling.
Drawbacks ,
C
•
Easy to work 100 righ tly, hut <;team helps to stretch it out slighr,I)'. If worked in;J ram that [It. "scratchy" it will feel scratchier due to knot 301 tOp of ~ til c h . Fcd~ awkward , be<:ause it is worked "backward '" Takt"5 some pratO rice to le,un. Srodtint'm- slitt h wi d, reverse crochet applied will nor lie Rat; mu ltiple row~ of single crochet or a no n-roll ing horder should be. worked fim .
•
Reverse Single Crochet over Bound,Qff Stitches
~
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To Work
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If wo rking in rh~ round, work a row (or rows) of 5ingle (:rochec on the edge, jOin with a sli p stitch. do not turn . If working fl at, chai n one at end o f r(l\\.", do not turn . "Insen hook Into fi rst stilch to the right, yarn over book, pull loop of yarn to fro nt of wo rk. yarn over hook, and pull through both loop~ on hook". Repeat fro lll ~ to ~ until all st itches aIC' used. T he s£i rch wiU .. ppea r twisted ~ n d sligh tly ra ised in .. linlc kno£. Sli rches on hook are in ~l d iffe renr o rd C'.f than in single crocher.
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~ · ~- · ~·~·;·i: Join ya rn with slip stit ch. Insert hook 10[0 first st it ch
to the right.
Yarn over hook, pu ll through
both loops o n hook
To wo rk d irectlr into the knining, work a:. above. inseni ng fhe c rochet hook im c the' knitl iog below the cast-on or bound-off edge, 51an ing 3'{ dl(~' lef{ end with righ r side fac ing,
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but important ho les probauly ' .lU St< more problem ~ kllHl ing rhan any oth er fearuce, T he pro blem IS that it is difficu lt to make Ih ern lo ok as nea l aod tidy as we'd like them to, and they c-an HI, S!;: S MA Ll.
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BUTTO -110! 1:S
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In
werch a liI or shape easily because of the general nat ure of knining. II is best to keep [hem as ~m al l :.I .~ possible so they d o no! Mft"[(;h O lll fro m the bUHon going dHough over and over, lr's important Ihal ,he buu o nhole "fi r" into rhe kn ittjng, Th i ,~ Illea ns YOli should h:lVe rhe bun on bdorc yOIl Sla rr fhe b u nonh o l e~, (Q make rhe righ t sne and rype of bmronhole. Whe n you make th(' bu n on ho lc first, yo u're likely 10 speud d ays or w("('ks scarching fo r rhe correa bmwn. I've do ne it mysel f. N ow I carty ,he ~3 U ~(, swatch in my purse while the g:. rment JS being knn so J can .;e.l rch fOI bu ttons whencvcr the opportunity prt:Sel11 $ i r~eJf. To space yo ur buttonholes evenly re'luires a lirrle math , Mc.lsunng Isn't acc.u rate eno ugh: you necd to COUll( rows or stitl:hes, To do this, make rh e fWII[ band w ithout th!;' buttonholes first and then 1l ~C: it to CO UIlI row~ o r stITches for proper placem ent of the b urronholes on the o p po,~ i tc rro ll t. Fo r women's garmencs make the left from band 6 rst; for men's ga rmcllts, make the right from ba nd first. Set' the worksheet o n pag!;' 140 to ca1cu l:He the pt... <.: eml"nI .
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Tw O - Row BUTTONH O LE ( H ORIZONTAL) D rawbacks TH IS I S rhe most wmmoIlly used buttonho le. This bunonhole lakes twO towS (0
work; thaI means you m usr ~ount
f WO ro~
for cvelY b Ullonho le when cal-
Rc-suir.;. aren·r .-IlwdY5 sd ri ~fJ.(,(ory.
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E.uily di.storts the kni n int;. Can stretch OUt of sh,!pc alld be(.:Ol11e (00 large for blHlOll if n ot
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culati ng ,heir placemen t. T he bound -off «Ige of this bu((o nho l(" d oes nO( malch ,he cJ,~( -o n alge
t('inforred. l op of the bound-off c.- dge of rhe- butto nhole d oesn't match the cast -o n
very wel l. You ca n h id e rhi.\ discrepancy by reinforcing rhe bUllonhoJe with rhe
edge at Ihe bOllom. and there is
bUflo nhoie stitc.h (see page 126). However, rhe buttonhole ::'Iitch will reduce Ihe siu- of (he bUlconho lc, so you should S(~Hr out by m aking a larger bu((o nho le.
'l be traditio",!1 two-row b u tto nhole
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bil of a hol e in the righ, corner.
i~ one of the mOSt co mmon , bur the
To Work
techniq ue IC:lvc:$ a sou;!1 hole in rh(' right-hand cornff. I developed a revised fwo- row button hole to elimin:1te the small h ole.
Tra.ditional two-row buttonhole; Work
tl)
posicion of b un on hole. ~Wo rk two
more. stitches and begin bind o f( fo r number of stitches needed to make corfeCT size hu n o nholc. F inj ~h the row. O n th e n (:X1 row, "''-ork to the bound-off stitch es. tu rn ,he v-,'O rk, caSI o n ,he number of 5f itc.h es bound ofT using the kni tted·on
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on
(5("("
page 12) . Turn the ",ork and fini~ h rhe
lOW. *
Cast on :'lew stitches.
left: Tr
Revised cwo-row butto nho le (al-
Top to Bottn(l'l Rlbb"ilg. Stockinette Sutch. and Garter Stitch
most a rh ree- TOw buttonhole); Wotk 10 positio n of bli tlonho ie from '" to ..
Benefits \'(forks with an)' number of st itches. •
Wo rks with a.1I weights of yarn. WorL wel l with any stitch pan cto .
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Can be worked on right o r wrong ~ ide of koini ng.
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toIn
above-. On the nex.t
{OW,
work into
the hack of th e cast-on stirch es Ol nd t he- first stit ch afte r th e caSt-On ~ li IC.h es;
continue knitt ing. Knit into Ixlck
ot sntches.
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ONE - Row BUTTON H O LE (HOR IZONTAL)
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Il':lves a de
i, ca ll le:wc ,I smal l gap o r l oo~ .uea at the riglH end . I ad ded a cou plt' of stepli 10 ciim inlHt Ih i$ problem . I recommend (hal you make a s.a mplc 10 ~ sure your bUllon will go th ro ugh the burton ho lc: il is sligh rly tighter once complclt'd. This buttonh ole c,lkes Oll e rOw to work thaI mea ns YOli muse COUll( o m: row for every bu((onhoic wh en c,l.!cu!;n ing the piacc.nIC'!H of the burro n-
holt'.S.
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~j TH IS KU r" r ON H O L E
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Benefits
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Mak('~ .t ll('aIer
buuo n hole than rwo-row bUltonhole" Rcqllir~ no n:-infoc,O ittg.
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Dmwbacks
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Work.:; with all \~ eigh l ~ of )"H n. \X.'orks with ally number of ~t i [chcs . "fork... well with any ~ I iu'h p.lIte.rn. Yields dgh rcr bu n onholc with firmer edges Iha" rwo-row bUf(o nhole. Cm be worked on right or wro ng side of k nitling.
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more- time than twO-tOW b unonhole. Not wrnple.tel)" pt""rflXt. hOI st ill rhe hot oprion fo r a la rger buttonhole. LC.ll'CS a loo p of yarn over left: end of J. stitch thar looks li ke a
pur! har. t
c'm pull rhe knitt ing toward thc= cc=ntt':r ofbutronhulc un both ('m ls.
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I!'! ~ ~ ! ~ ! left" Ongioill One-Row Buttonhole
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Right: Revised One-Row Bunonhole Top to Bottom: Ribbing. $toc.klnette Stitch. dod Galler Stitch
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Revised me lhod : Eve!')'lhing rcm.tins the u mc as lor original method (lacing) to ' •. Ca~ t l in three more stitches th.ln you bound off Tmn the work. Sli p the 6'~ 1 Slil Ch o n the left needle ovcr (0 rhe ri ght needle and pass the eXi ra cast-on stitch on the righ t m:cIllC!: over 10 do:<'C [hI:' ou((onhok Finish rhe row. On the
To Work
or
Original method : Wo rk to posi,io n b uno nho le. Move yarn forward, si ip J. srilch pllriwi.se, move the yarn to the bade "'Slip a stitch p urlwi.se (rom the lefl need le 10 [he right needle. pass Ihe second slitch o n the right n«
nc:'tl row. wu rk to one stitch befu re (he C45I-on Sl i tc.bl:'~ of the buttonhule, pur! t WO together if rhe ~( i tdt is to be a pu rl. o r knit twO logcrheI ifit is to be a knit. work to l ,l~ t ~rilch uf caSt-o n stitchel> and wo rk s!ip. slip, purl ir $ritch i~ 10 be a p url, o r slip . .\Iip, knil if stitch is to be a kni t. Finil>h row. T he 0(11"2 step or kniu ing o r purling Ihe sri tt.hes togC1 her :;I( the beginning ,1Ild end of rht' casto n st itches helps to d ose u p the gaps and clean lip rhe co rn c r.~ of the button-
first stitch, :u. if fO bind off. Repeat from ' fo r as many slitches as n~dcd to .1cwmmodate the bunon. Slip the LISl bo und·off stitch fro m rhe ri ght ne>ed lc back to the left needle. Tu rn th e \VQrk. Using the c.. ble caS( on (see page 14). ~~Casl o n o nc more SlilCh than you bound off. Turn , he work. Slip the first .stitch on rhe Idl needle over
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rh e right need le and pass (he extra
Cl:Sf -Ofl.
stit ch o n the righr needle over to dose rhe buttonhole. Co ntinue kn itting.
holc.
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Move )"drn forwill d. slip stitch puriwiS('.
Purl
twO
together
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retum rc"'~
a\ begll1nW,g 01 butlonhDk>
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Pass second stitch over f,rst sutch
Cast 0!'1 one emd stitth.
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Slip, slip. purl at end of buttonhole.
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YARN - OVER BU TTONH O LE
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THI S BUTTUNHOU; is almost invIsible, and can be m ed virmaUy any'\vhere as long as rhe dw~(: n hutton will go (hrough. If worked in knir ..m e, purl one ribbing, the rt'quired dec rease C:l. n be hiddell under the knir stitch before o r after
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the ya rn over, making th e butlOnhole even mOre in v i~ ibl c. Set' "S mall V~rsion"
weight of t h~ y.un will d etcrmine ,he size o f rhe hu rw n holc and ,he hun on used. -, his buuonhole lakes one row 10 work: that me;,l n.~ you m USI CO Ull[ one row for every butto nhole wh~ n cakulanng (he" placeme n t of rhe hU Hon hoies.
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Sm,, 11 Version
Larger VerSion lop to Bottom . Ribbing. Stockinette Stitch, and Garter SI,(cl'
work.
not \\caf
well; [his buuonbok ha.s no 6nishing or bound-otT
or buttonhole J.nd pussib lr te;\f or fray [h e yarn.
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E,I~Y co (',lIch bUlIOns WI [h sharp edge~ or poinrs on th e loop at top
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Very simple
~dlche~.
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\'\!orks with ~ny stitch panern.
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\X.'ork~ with all w<.:- i ~ts o f pm.
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To IVork Small version: In nOll-rib stitc h, work
to
tX>5 i-
tion of bunonhole, knit twO IOge_ther, ya m
over need le. In ribbi ng, work to positio n of buttonho le. If ,he re' is a kni l Ihm a purl st itc_h
befo re Ihe y
become rhe purl [hat disappeared w hen tin:
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Knit two together. bring yarn Oller nee dle.
sri{chcs W(!re worked togt' ther. It un also be worked wi th the dccrt'~l.M'· afte r the yarn over:
Work to the purl .•t itch where the yarn over is be placed, ya rn over, klllt two together. The
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lIS
when worked o n th e next row.
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Larger version: \\:Jo rk to position of huttOJlhole. Knit rwo together, yam ove r [wice, slip,
yarn ovc-r wi ll become the missing purl stitch
sl ip, kn it, finish the row. O n Ihe nex ( row,
work a knir ;\f\d a p url inlO the do ub le yarn
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Drawback,
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DO(:5 nIH tequirt" any fl nishing.
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Th~ size of the needle and ,he
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Bemfin
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below.
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KIlIl two together, bring yarn over needle twice.
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C RO C HET - LOOP B UTTONHOLE S US!", '1\-i IS technique ~fi:e:r all o ther fini sni og is com pl ele. "'here arc extra ends to weave in. bu t they arc u ~u Ol ll y e'a.sy [0 hide in rhe border.
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Easy to add b m(Qnh ole~ th at weI"(' accidentall y left
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OU T.
to add aftt'n houglll burronhole.
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Can he worked with a kn it o r crochet border in place:.
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l.oops can be Jr\~' ~iu needed tn acco mlnodatl'" button . \\'ork, wi III .m y sti tch pat ("ern in knilti ni!; best ust'd on Works well with JlI wf!igh ts of yarn .
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firm edge.
Rcq llirt·~ h,l~ic LcaVN 01
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Pull new loop through to connect 10 knittng
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Drawbacks •
Finish otT.
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Benefits b ~y
h oOk and pull it Ihr()u~ the kn ill inlt. Chain ont'o Work ~ingl{' croch ct O\Tr cha in . joi n to knitting at o pposite t'nd of bmlOnholc with a slip stitch.
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Stngle crochel 'l'ounC m.m
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crochet skills.
loop on rhe edge o f (he k llin ing.
Ends mU~ 1 he woven .securely or bUllo ll ho k may vull .1p.Ht.
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To Work Mark plau:llle.nt for the b UHonholes 0 11
the' edg.e of ,he garmenr . "Use the
(roc.het Button loOp to Ribbing
S,IIl\e num ber o f row~ for each b uttonhole.
U~jng
01
crochet hook
slightly smaller rha ll the knj ning need le u ~ed , pu ll up a Joop inw rhe kn in ing mIring at the up pe.r end o f rhe bunon ho le. Croch t't a l.hain large
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ellough to .Icco mmodalt: rhe b uno n. T hi$ will d t'creaSt' in size slighrl y
Drop loop off hook.
when you add the sewnd row of crochC'1 Ifl fec. O rup the loop off {he hook , inscn the hoo k inro the knitting :u lower e nd of the hutLon ho le, pl.I Ct' dropped lo op back 0 11 the hook. yarn over
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Crochet Button Loop to G
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BUTTONHOLE WORKED
IN C RO C HET BORDER on the from edges of a <..."U'digan work well and O\r(' very firm . They will keep th e edge (com rolling alJd control [h e curv(: of rhe knil ling. The butronhole does not requi re: any addili on:tl fi n; ~hin g. It is ~ rn OQ [h and almosr invisible.
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bsy co place buttonhole whi le working crochet border. Worb well with aU wc::iglns of yarn . Eas)" to make tin any siu hunon . Llsy co add JIl aftefl h o u~1 huuonltole, bur requires a single crochet border.
Bask {'rochcr ~kills necess..uy. madc roo lilrge. and will !)Irer<:h slighcly beau.w il is a ,"cnicli buttonhole.
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l !'o' GEN ERA !. , rhis is the leasr used of alJ th e bUlton holes. Ir work~ well in rihbing because it can be hidden berween the knit and purl sli,,:hes on a horizomal burron band (h:H wiU bt sewn on. Because this butlonhol e stretches out of shape .so easily. it is ne<:essa ry LO rr:inforce the openi ng with (he buttonhole sc-iceh (s.::(: page 126).
Benefit)'
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VERTI CAL BUTTONHOLE
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Drawbllcks Ea~ily
the chain as thefe are ~ti t che~ i11 the chain . Rcpe3r for C:,1(:11 bUlIonhole. 'X'ork .u many row-s J.S de
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Benefits
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CROC H ET BOR O ER S
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To Work
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Mark placeme:nt for buttonholes. Usc fh e sa me number of sr iu; hes fo r each bu((onhole. Using a crocher hook twO sjze:~ smaJler tha n ,he kni tting nc:o::I lc used to kn ir the ga rment , work single crochet (OJ hal f the number of rows rel.jll ircd fo r the widrh of rhe edgi ng. When you reach the 3r(,;l. for rhe bu twnhole. work a chain ,he same number or St iKhes marked fo r each bunonholc.. Skip rhe ma rked Crochet Button Hole area for the buttonhole and cominu(' working single crochet imo Nudcr. Repeat fo r .::ach buttonhole. Ncxt row: Whc:n you f(:ach (he bu ttonho\c chain. work thc same numbel of .'l ingle c,{och('(s "round
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Slightly morc invisible than horiz.onral bUtlorlhole.. Works hcH in ribbing, but can be used in any orher .~ [itch patt('tn. Work~ well t~)r small bunonhole.s. Works wdl in horilolHaJ buncn bands. Wor~ best \Ithh lighrer wdght yarns.
DrawbfUks Stretches OUt easily, panicularly with ht'avy yarns. Requires yarn tI.) b(' CUI and resrarre:d , resl1ltin g in added ends [0 w('ave in and weakness in area where y.un is resrarred. Row~ mu:)t bt counted precisely to mal!' both $ id e~' of the bli lionhol(: the sa me length .
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To Work \'(fork to positio n of buno nholt'. p lace remaining Hitches on a holder, Conlinue knin ing ul1I iI hunonhole is dC'.!iircd length. enJ ing wirh right-side row (firs! $id e of button-
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hnle completed), Plac~
the: stilches
un rhe holder o n anuth C'r nct:dlc and with an()th t'( pit'ce knit to
uf t"3nt,
the length RighI Hdlf of V€rticel Buttonhole Worked, left Hcllf on Holder
Rejoin by knining
;lCl'OSS
uf Ihe
lOp.
ends lon~ enough m Ihal (hey C
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reinfo rct'
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Diffi..:uh 10 wurk e....enly and to rn .. kc each b U H o nhol ~ the same sileo
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fini sh rhe- rwo-
row bu ttonholC' and the vcrriCJI bUlion h ol ~ bC:Gl U ~ Ihey borh srl't'lch out of shape t'3sily.
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10 Wl"ave
rhe
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To WOrk US(" the Slime yam as was lL~d in the kn itting. I( yarn is b ulky, reducc rhc rhi c kn ('<;~ b y spli tting I h~ Y:I{ I\ and using o nly one or twO p li e~. SI :'ltfing du." yarn .11 rhe lowe r righr end o t'the bu ttonho le., anchor [hc [ail by going u nder
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.Hitch o n [he wrong side
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of rhe wo rk, Ie-dving a [J illong e no ugh 10 weave in la(e r. From till: right side.. insert
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rhe netdl( into the knitting and OUt Ihe
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Adds morc e-nds
di.~[t,)rt
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sritch can Ix used with an y butron hllie ro srahi lizc it, or
C <'I 1l be worked in ally yarn for decomrivc purposes.
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TO FINI SH BUTTONHOLE S
\'(lill makt: bU Ilt)llhole ~m'lllCl" if Ile-cdo;:d. Works wirh all weiglm of yarn; fo r bulky a.ml worsted · weight ),Ol rns, ~ep<'lra[c tilt' pll c~ ro mJke i. less (hick when ~tti~hed.
Can ca~ily mAke the buuonholc louk tOO thick and "m ill ing,
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BUTTONHOLE STIT C H
loooc or ~Ioppy lonking.
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If sJlould always be used
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LcJve- tht'
TOp to Bottom: Verti cal Buttonhole n Garte r Stitch, Stockin p.tte SfIlC.h, Stockinette Stitch wi tl' G",r~er Stitch at Edge of 8uttonhoiP. Ribbing
for d ~co r ,Hi ve purposC'!' on all)' edge.
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100
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h ole to keep IhC' button from mc[(.hing rhe bu((onhole.
IW TTO t-l HOLE
<:1(",111:> IIp CUSt' of buttonholt" if il h
1[£
If
Ihe edge of thC' buttonholc with b Ulronhole sritch. \'(/eave in th e ends firmly along rhe edge of Ihe hulto n·
TH.t;
Benefits
Drawbacks
' [£
hole l..:omp lt'tcJ.). firSI side of bultonhole wi lh
' ''''' '' '' '''''
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m ;lI ch
fir sl sid e (second side of bU{io n -
main yaen , joining the hUHo nhole <'I t the
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Bunonhole StItCh
5p;ice or thc h u tto nholC'. making SIU£" rheneedle comes
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o n tOp of the y.un loop.
COIuilluC' wo rking row:l.Td the' Ir.fl end or [he b utto nh ole. !.Urn k nitting, ("OlUinuc across
(() p
ed ge of b utto nhole, turn kniT-
tin g, join to b eginning stitch. Weave in t:nds.
Two-Row Buttonhole with
Buttonhole Stltd't
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JO I N I NG NEW YARN
ODDS AND END
W ITH K ALWAYS TR V !O
ITTI NG IN PR OGR ESS
join y.un.lt the beginni ng. of a row. If you art' kni n ing eire.u-
larly, choose a pl:u.: t" th ai i.~ nO' in the rront of the garment. lm>lginc wht'fe the side scam wo uld be and join ;1 lhere. 'Jo join the YArn , tie what I call the "magi<.. knot.'" Tic tht' ne:-w yM Il arou nd rhe old ya rn with just a ~ ingle ERE ARE ~ome
tricks and tips that d idn't fir inro an y o f (be: other
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chapters. They are link things that f think make: finishing easier or m:mC' the fi nishC'.d ga rment look o r wea r bet tee. You'll find find some Hick~ of your own. Write rhC'm down; the next rime you ru n acrms the same fin ishing problem , you'll know exac.d y what you d id 10 solve rhe problem. 3.
must, not
on ly fo r c.hecking the g:lUge, b ur for mOOng su re that the pallern stitt:h looks good in th e' yarn. finding alii whethe-r you need 10 add 3. selvage ~ lil C h fo r the pattern , deciding what bUfl o nho lc works the hest, and
:"0 Oil.
If you il ren'( sure
hO\\I a technjque is going to work O UI , practice o n the swatch; don't work .:l technique on an emire garment unril you're sure it will do what you \\,:1.111 i( 1O do. Irs fru! lrat ing when it does n't work
O Ul
hard wock. Buy that extra skein of yarn
LO
and you have
fO
rip out all o f yOur
uSC" for sa mples and prac.tice. You'll be happ)' rh ~lI you did. Be:- sure you practice o n rhe s;ome ya rn as you kni t th e garmenr with; it might not work uur rhe $
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rhe edge of rhe knining. a nd begin
unrie the knor.
dun the mo rc fin ishi ng you do. the easie r it will become, and you might even
Swarching is c:s~ n t i al to making you r fi nishing perfect. It is
b i O I.
You' ll know you've done it cO(-
rectl y jf rht" knO I will lilide o n rht" tail o f {he o ld yun. Slide th at knot right up
~ .
I•
I• I• I • I • I • I • I• I I
,. I
CO
kni !. When
yO u WC:ilVC'
your ~:tm ,
01) 0 '
~
WEAVING IN ENDS
Another way fa weave in cotton is
1O
~ N n
F.NI) ~
split the ends and weave in rwo
directior15, bur this givc:5 yo u dou ble the numher 'Of ends
1'0
wrave in ,
Y'Ou could also sew d own {he ends with sewing dw:ad o r a ligh t yarn . Till S IS (he n nal [Ouch for your garmen t. Tak ing , he time lO d o i{ rig h L will
Securing the ends i~ e~ peci a lly impo rtant in a reas thaI und ergo a lot strerchiog. like the neck of a c rewneck pullover.
pay off in ,he fini shed gMlllen (.
(:
"
When weaving ill e nds, lise a sha rp ta pestry need le so yo u can occ:uio tlally insen , he ne('d le in a stra nd o f yaro in
.1
'Of
My fin al .ldvice: Rem an o ld muvi(' to watch as you fin ish and wc;:tve in dle final c nds of Ihe ga cillem . A glass of wine wouldn'[ hun eirh <:'r.
stitch to ho ld [he end~ in
place. In woo l or b lends with fuzzy [eX:lUrr, [he yarn end will acrually "fd, " (0
!he kn in ing m er being worn fo r a whilC". T his won't hJppen wi,h
Do not
•
OVC f ColSI
Always [ry
10
a sea m; i,
crc;uc.~
<:0((011 .
R EINFOR C ING SHOU LDERS
too much bulk.
have al! o f (he end .. finish off in a .>cam , if possibl e-. Il"
COUTUR E
garments. rhe shoulders ;lft' ohl":n rcmforced wirh (ape along [he
shoulder s<:'am. T his heJr ~ su ppOrt the weigh t of the sleeve, and keep the shoul ·
ders from sagging. In lmitred garm ents. many knitters use crachel
lO
reinforce
the shoulder~.
3
To Work With a crochet hook 011('
to
rwo
SIZes
smallt'J thall the koming lIl":edJe used
[Q
knit the garment, work a row of slip su tch cTOch('t across rhe should er seam in the sam(' yam you used TO knit [he item. It is also good to go across (h(' b;Kk neck, es~c iall y o n a heavy g.ume n r. (See "Slip St itch Crochcr," page 104.)
WedVf! E'nds in th.ough S€dm in d Zig-IdS panem. (Conuastln8 ydm for illustration purposes only.)
WeAve in ;In end for abo ul an inch and trim do~e
to
[ht' garmenr.
•
To we ~ ve in rhe end s fro m jo ining new yarn at tbe selnge edge, un de rh e
•
T'O weave ends in in the middle of the knitting (though l hope yo u won't
"magic knot" lwis t th e )".HIlS, a nd weave them in the ap posite dire, (i'O )) .
have to do this), cr'Oss the ya rns
to
...
31
dose the little gap and fo ll ow the path
of a row ofhoriw n ra l knlulng, using the purl bars for 1" or so co weave In the end . Work rhe a ther end in the opposite direct ion. When workin.g with co tton, the ends won't stay woven in as welJ as with
wools and blends. Wr.ave th e end in far more tha n ,he
IllC,h
5~c i 6ed
above; in so me c
q.
\,l I.) ".,
KNITTED SH OULDE R PADS
~" "
\', " n ,
FLAT KNITTING VERSUS CLRC ULAR KNITTI NG
To Work Using three strand s of yarn and a Si7.e 1 1 kni tting ntTd lc. ca~ 1 on five sti tches. Knil o ne row. Next row: Increase af rhe beginning and end
K N I TT I N G I N
the roun d can eliminate a lot of se.ams, but n:member that the
more ~eams a garment h ~s the ben er I[ l-irs. [f you ilre thinking about knitting in l·he round, consider th e points below:
of the ro w,
Repeal cheSt" ('\\10 rows III ganer stitch unti l rh ere aTe approximately ffi·c n l).r,ve stitches or until the length down th e c("mer equals the Width of the .~ h o lli d er of the ~wcar("r. Fin ish off.
~
Requires circular needles of variom size.~ .
o
If the knitting get~ \"wisted when it is joined :tfler rhe C;lst-on row,
il
has
10
be starred over:
il
cannot be fixed .
B,:sl method fo r neekhand~ and armband s: dimin.:m"s a h ulk), seam.
•
G;l~mems
k nit in th e rou nd can [Wist on the- body when wo rn.
Tht: Mitch gauge mUSt be the same wh en
• •
Knot wilh three strilnds 01 worst0d-weight yarn on size 1I needles.
Tack rhe n,U fOW end af (he neck edge and ,he wider end
.1£
the ~Iecvc nI~e. You
•
ca n adi us( , he lhlckne.ss 01 (he shoulder pad by worki ng with fewer or mon: srr:md s o f yarn o r a smaller or bigger kni rring needle. Kn it a small ~watch to dClermine th e correct thickness.
~
"'I'
..
"'I "'I
~
"'I
!i
'!II
yOll
are working in
the round withour purling and when you arc working b;lCk
BLOCKING
,
".
!
~
51 OR
SHOULD
I ~a)'
"[0
block o r
IlOt to
block"? The vario us ways to block a
sweater arc man y. and most people have th eir favorite:. Most knined
g;Hm e m ~
can usc: a li lll~ smooching out. o r b locking to the corren dimensiom. T ht" way
you block you r g;umem will have a 101 Wool will Stand up
[0
10
do with the fi ber Content of rhe yarn.
any blocking tec hniq ue as long as
il
is not steam ed
so much that the stirchc$ won't bou nce back. It will tolerau' a litt le ~ trerch here and there ir the ga nnctll isn't the rigbt size, roo. Blemh contain ing wool and va rious Olher fibc r~ will act much the solmc: 3S wool. Ac ryli(: is hCHl'r blocked wid\ a damp lowel. Steam wi ll take (he life OUt of fh e s titch C'~, and
if yo u usc:ln iron ,tnd rhe iro n to uches fhe garmen t. it will
smash rOt" k nitt ing and o('vcr come back ro its o riginal COll uns do
SI ;I(e.
well wirh (he d amp-towel tC'chni'lue. Or you cal' dam pen a
conon ~We;lle r llnd p lace il in the d rY'!t for ,I bricf rime. 1 find wh en I wash a
!
51
• !
i;;I i;;I
2
SlI
~
~
~
SlI
!
SlI
Iii
~
calion sweare r th.lt jf I PU( it in th e dryer and dry sligh tly, if goes righr hack
~
to its original si'le. I rhen 12)' it Har ro con rinue dry ing.
Where to Block Yo"r Garment You will necd a Rar surface when: you can leavt" the d amp knitt ing (lInil il is dry. The ~ ur(aC( will need 10 t"ke pill ~ if yo u arc doing pin block ing. T he lOp of a bed (wi ,hom an dccrric blanker) or a blocking board wOrk well. T he Aoor
covered wirh a sheer or a piece uf fahric, where no o ne wi ll waJk (and ,he C l f and dog won't run across) is also a good placc. An ironing, boa rd WI Uwork for smaJI pieas (h:1:I hi exacd y o n Ihe rop wichom (;lll ing ovcr ehe edges. In w id, dam p dimates [he dryiug process could take a long rUnC'. ~o you ,night WaJH 10 sct up a fa n o r port'.lblC' hea ler so (liC' piece d ries be(i)re it begins 10
~
;;J
•
~
Ii'
;;J
.;;J .;;J ~I
ii!J ii!J ~ 134
coru:<:t dimensio ns. YOll o n pi n Ihe cdgt'$ o r jusl sha~ the pieces. Smooth with your hand . Leave to dr y. Be' sure rh(' side seams of che (rom and bac k arc the same length . You can also use this Icd mi'luf: on a ,-om pletcd ga.rmt'1lI to - freshen" it o r rake away baggy el bows.
Pin Blocking With me.:LSuremcntll of the knitled piece.$ in hand . ;\ spr:ly M ille, and lOIS of T-p ins that won't rmt. lay our che pieces, right side lip. Begin pinning OUt the wid th and the: length to match rhe m casUl'cmenl.S givclI in the: p;mern . Pin out the elUire piece. except fo r che ribbing if it is to !lull ill slighlly. Mist heavily
.... illl lV,nee, and a\Jow to dry befo re removing.
'1' T...tT
T i
....
- ,.....t,. -- -)...'r' - "
-
~
;;J
,",
i "
The Damp- Towel Technique
~
~
.,,',
Layout the picce's of rhe garJl1cnI and lay J damp IOwd over them for an hOUT or two. 00 no r sa lUral ~ the tov. .·e! with water. hur wei it lightly or ~pray it with wacc-t. Remove che towel, 1C2\'ing the pieces dam p cnnugh to suape into the
;;J
me
mildew or smell musry.
1.)111)'
/
) <
Steaming Method
caring or cooking. You do n't kno w (hey·ce.- thne, but rhe m Olh~ will fin d them .
Pin
T hey love
pi eces exacdy as YOli would in {he pin.blocking method. With ;l. hot iron S<' t on steam , gently move th ~ iron over die kniucd pieces. Do no! allow ,11(' iro n to louch rhe kn itting; it wil l A,lIten rhe knimng and sometime.\ O Ut tn e'
leave a Ii n!1:" shine on d ie. yarn . Usc a thin !awd Qv('r rhe piece to p revent deci-
J cmally couchi ng Ihe I,:ni ning. T he' rowel could. he damp Do no t remove kniuing um it comp]c(dy dry.
fO
make mo re stC:il JO .
· ~
· ~ ~
~
(heu eggs in those tasty spots.
To prevent mOlh damage: Neyer store so mething rh:I1 is dirty. I don't mean dragged through [hC'
•
~
~ "!lI
10 1.1)'
• •
mud; I mean worn a few time... Too often, wh C'1l the WCJoth('t (;hangcs, garments get put aW;ly before they arc cll!;:lned . MOlhs hatC' sun ligh(.
J( possib le, d o n't SfOTC your ga rmenfs in
If you u ~ p lastic hags, be su re the g:lTmenr i ... co mplccdy dry before put ting
if
in rh<' 'lircighc hag. Moistu re will invite mildew. You can prick tht'
bag with a pin in a f('w s po r.~
"!lI
rhe d ark.
{(l
allow the Swe3.ter to '· bre.Hhe," th us prC'-
~'enting mildew.
)'.Hn
;;JWlly
Do th is with you r silsh of yarn as well. Don't pUt rhe in rhe bag fro m the store; frC'at i, ;ilS yo u would treat a swearer.
~
!'J
iio
!'J
~
3
ing tht'l11 with differenT ~ m C'll s. Place bay ie,\ves, potpourn, or scemed uil
~
~
'llollg with the cedar. Bt' sure the oil isn't w uc hing rhe .~wea lC'rs. Th e~c scem s will fool mo ths. Moths get (esiSI:lnf (0 ced:u aft.:r it begins to lose
Finally, ced ar chen s and c~d ar blcxk~ w ill nOI guaran[CX" you won't ha ve moth;;: for forever. C edar shou ld be oiled or s.lndcd
renew the smel l iH
lea,o;t every couple of ye;;J rs oc so. You em also keep moths away by foo l-
Towel
its
•
(Q
~mdl.
A new smell will confu5e [item , and [hey ,,,,.lI! go elSt'Where.
3 Final Tips
SWEATER A
o
YARN STORAGE
iii
A FTf"l{ YOU 'V E com p l ('r~d your kni rting, SfOrc ,he piece safely. 'I'll:)! is, kcep it where Ihe modiS lYon', get ie. rhe sun won't fdcle ii, and it) 5hape wi ll reln J.in Ihe same. Cardul Storage isn't difficult, but it does take somt" rime- and e Ffon. AJ[ of rhe rips bdQW .lpp!y to Y:J(rl Storage as wdl.
... •
Fold ~wea ters; do n'r hang Them. If you hand w;ilsh. be sure {he ~wea{ e r has a wa rro pJdce ro d ry. If the sw(':t{('r has to sit (oc d ays co dry, it will beg in to srnell lik(' mildew. LJ~e ... .(p;Ke he:uer o r fan
•
if necessa ry co kc.-ep [he air movi ng around rhe ~ea(er.
Do nO( dry d ean co tto n SWeaters. The dry-deaning proCC:S:'i w ill make them larger.
Moths First of all, if isn'l c\'('ry mm h th,u e.-(1ts sweatc rs. T he average e\
..-
1.\7
.'''"''~''
• WORKSHEET Y ou"
P L ANN l l'G
i
I
..
N Number of skeins of yam
Body needle size
BoHler needle size Stitch gauge
KN I TT I NG
AND
FIN I SH I N G
"OW 8~u8e Type 01 cast on _ _ __ __ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ ~
Type ot border; rib Of ethel strtch pattern
Number 01 rows _ _ _ _ _ to equdl _ _ __ inch(es)
SdvJge stitd1(es)? _ _ F YOU [0
~
_ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ _
are using a commercial p3U(, fIl . read thro ugh (he direction s
see i ( they tell you wlla! rype of C
use. Most o f them won't.
SO
yo u'll be on your own to figure that
OUI .
(0
Type of increases dbove IIbbing If ,my (body dnd sleeve)
Jf
you're J esigning yo ur ow n garmcnl , you will also n eed 10 consider all of these
" ;:led5e
used for sleeve shdping _ _~
o ~)(Ion s.
The worksheet opposite is design ed
to
help you decide what technique,
!';c; I'1ber if, ;O"·/'o"S to ilrmholes _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ _ __ __ _ _ _ __
yo u are going to use, so [h:1I when (he garment is finis hed e~'e ryt hing w-i ll Type (If
match and yo u won't have any surprises.
sle~
openrrig _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ __
')haplng: DeCfed5eS on the edge Of ftll I
I, ")
th ings down. If you have
put tIle knitTi ng ,IW.1Y for awhil", ;lnd )OU don'r r~Tll (mlx ( wh:u y ou d id o r wh;ll needle: ;.'O\! IN,-d. rou'U find it ~' ('r)" fru .' tf,ning. If you work on more Than on (' prolt'n.H a time. it!\ ("\(,Il m ore critica l to b :cp scpaf;J.{C notes of each. I hJve ,j tri{,lld who \\rltc, on .~a ps of p ap~ r. It wo (ks for her, as long as ~he t10t'Sll't lose them and keeps them in ord ~r. I hc-p
1)8
f-'!>S fSTl.U
to write
to
Shodders Type of seam _ __ _ __ _ Short rO'NS on shoulders? _ _ _ _ _ __ fll)[\:
bdnds. if dny, k.nit on Of sewn on Illter? _ _ _ _ _ _ •_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __
3;:ttonhOI€"'il, whdt r.-pe? _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ '''.(NoJ
rrw'y .~t:tches to pick. up 01 rows
\J ef.k~nd.
10
knit _ __ __ _ _ _ _ _ __
what type?
dt')ign . I WOllt remember how 1 did a "s~ci
\:.,rnbtr of stitches 10 pick up ___ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ _ __
find \Vh.IT you did.
lype of bind off to match Cil5t on _ __ _ _ _ __ __ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __
I\'-m~a'ld (of ~Jurnbcr
there IS one). what type) ..............-_
(If stitches to pick up _ _ _ _ _ __
139
""SI SI
WORKHHT II DE TE RM I N I NG
IN <': R~.A Sr.,
BUT T ON H OLE
~
Dr.<':REA!> t! ,
AND
SI
Pl AClMI::l>lT
J
decr('a.~C5 ,
how
(0
they have [he
ca.lcu la[e hu ({onhole placcmen r. T he method is
~3mt'
laring jncrea.s~ and decreast'S.
111e l(,
rhe fo llowing PJrdgrJ.phs will hel p
rill:
same for
herween rhe hU Honh ole~ to make ;111 b UHonholes occur every 16 rows. Do n't
SI
C.1!cU -
SI
is a workshC::CI [0 sim plify Iht" m;uh, bUi
yO ll
undcr5t,m d wh~ t yo u arc do ing.
31
'10 cakul3[c burronhole place mellt, coun! rhe number of rows or sti tches to be u~cd for (he {'m ire b uno n ho lt" lu nd. LeI's say {he (ront bands will require'
31
120 rows ofkni u ing. At ,his point yo u must choose whit:h bUHl>nho te you ~ rC'
31
going to use. I'll usc rhe 2· row bu({onhole fo r (his clIillmplc. There will he 7 bU lronholes. If wc" arc pla c.ing 7 bUHonholcs and they eat:h take 2 rows, 2 rows
31
rimes 7 hu ttunholes ~u;'lls 14 row~ . SHbf(:lct ( h~ 14 cows fro m rhe total rows
of 120
equal 106 rows. Now cakul3{c" h l)W ma ny rows or scitt.hcs lh ere will be betwcc:n (he blUto
ro nboles. The' IJU rtonholes should not be IOGlted (uo eros!!' to th e bottom or the
..
31 31 31
=
31
£Op. L('r's say we WJ. nt the fir~( bu((on ho le co be 6 rows fro m lht: hOllom ;111(..1 fhe I.u t b uttonhole 6 rows fro m the ra p. Suhtract these l2 rows from (he 106
rows
£0
equal 94 row.~ Id l to di vid e evenly berw-~e n the bu rconholes. If we are
plat~i ng 7 bUffonhoics, [here .He 6 spaces bccwecn th em. Divide 94 rows by 6 spacc.~ ro equal 15 rows berween huu o n hole.s. pl u, a (r"ctio n , wh ich muns
there a re extra ro\',rs. To dcte!'l1\ine how m any extra rows then: .lre, m ul tiply 15
'40
extra ro\Y'S to 4 of the spaces berween the b UHonholes. blll lha[ leaves 2 spaces
!i!I
SI
number oC Slitch e; or rows "btlwce n (hem . T he followi ng exa mple will :"how you );0
even n um ber of rows hcrwcen {he b unon ho les. So we co uld add o ne of the 4
rake 1 row fro m cJ.en end, hecause rhat w ill place Ih ... bUI(Onho l... on a ~(Ong
side: row, which is what we arc trying Use the following wo r~hcet sti lCh es)
math is requi red to figure out where ro plat.t' in-
and bunonhol<::>
.md 2 in the rop, but it would be ben er if llll b u nonho les arc made on rhe righ t-side row so they look (he same, For rh
with I S tOws. lnstead . lake 2 ro\VS from bdow (he bo trom b u ttonhole o r ahnve the top bUltonho le and place one in each of the 2 spaces (hat have' o nly 15 rows
SI creases,
rows times 6 spaces to equ.-.! 9 0 . T heil SUi)lf:lct 90 ro~ fro m 94 row~ ro gel 4 exua rows that netd to be p laced sorn ewheL'c.. We can pl:l~:e 2 ;u th(· hOllom
~
~
O ME STMI'LI!
\\ .' M ~ , " • "
31 it
(0
to
(0 avoid. help you calculate the number of row.~
place berw«n increases, deu c:.Jse., . o r buuonho lt:S.
(O T
I I
~ Numbel of I'O'NS (01 stitches) Nllmber 01 I'OWS (or shtches) 10 wo.1:. one Inc. dec. 01 buttonhole
_(A)
!lI
_ (0)
!lI
Total number 01 Inc, dec, or bunonhole~ _
2
SubUdct 0 from A
...
(D)
..
- _ ( E)
Number of rcJIIV:'. (or stitches) before lim inc. dec, or buttonhole, and ~fter last inc, dec. or buttonhole SublraCl F 110m E
2
__
(G) 100ai number o( rows (or
DIVIde G by the nlJfT\ber of SNCes between Of buttonholes G ~ _ _ - _ _ (H) n\.llT'\bef of fOWS
(01' stitches)
~
inc. dec.
Of
buttoMoles. If there is 11 fractioo, ~
next steps.
a remainder. place extra _ _ (I) total number of
fOl.'l/S
(or stitches) between inc, dec or buttonholes Multiply H Tlme~ number of spdces betvveen Inc. dec, or buttonholes
Then
sllb(rdct I fwm
G
~
... ;a
ill(, det,
sllfche at besinning or end, or between inc. dec, or buuonholes
;"I
B RYS O K L) UT RI OUJJf'lC
CAS(..l\lH YA R NS
4 06; West Illh A~nu~ #39 l; ugen('", OR 97402
Tokwil.a , WA 9HI8H
Hx
_ - ___ (I) num ber of l evvs (or stitches) used between Inc, dec, or buttonholes JJ) extr,l rows {or stitches) rh.:Jt need to be placed somewtl~re, refer
G - I-
to text for plaCing rows Of slitches
!!I
1224
KniNt'rs illftry pins (14ftty pins wiehnUl elN
loop Ihlll tI<'1i lIS a spring 41 the (t/iled md uf II iumdard saftlY pin. I bey arc ulrd i" !tnit· bnK ~/l.UJl tbry ,wnt flJlth i'j tIN yttrn.)
Kart'. nJ~ UllimaU Klliruri GWM. Bothell , W..~ h ,: Martinga le & u,mpany, 2000.
nllll~r.
;a
Hi:l (I, Ju n ~. The fJ/'rn"jp!(I of K,jitting.
~
\ViS('man. :-.Jancie M.
OJ OJ 3 OJ OJ 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 ~
A ndflv~ r
Par k wr
All 1111'" Mld in tlx Imok: f;aj(llde 220 knit (II! siu 5 f or ribhing arid siu 7 for
t'IIlryrhing tiu. n a pe jhouuur pad (su i"itnm;(l1IJ on png~ 132).
BIBUOGRAPIIY
;':I _(f)
stllches) 10 place between inc. dec. or buttollholes
If there IS
~
RESOURCE.
New York Simon and
Schu.~{t;r,
19H5,
- --. Knitud SIIXI1In'S for Elltry :Xast/n. Both ~H, Wd.~ h.: Martingale & Compmr, 2002.
IIoXUi' Kmumg. New York: Pal\lhcxlU Books, 1989.
Kninrd SJuIWh, SIt/irs, ami S..arM, Bothell. W3.~h .: M:m ing'dk :Ul(l Company. 200 1.
ABOUT TH E AUn lOR lIS a rcg ls tct\~d nurse in 1987. Nam;i( yarn . hop, Nancie Knin. In Sa(rameIltO, Clli fomia. 'X'hilr running the ~rore, Nancie beg.~n [0 teach d J.'<.'; es locally aJ\li nacionwide. Te.1chin g led to ,he Sta ff of her "id c;o-p rndllcrion company, Wiscwarer Prodl1cnnn<. and $ua:t"l>.~ o f ~\'en knil dng videos 10 dalC'. ~anc ic 1 1
WUIUUNC
()p~l1eJ J.
toc
,H(Jgazmr. In rhe fa1l of 1 ~)7, Nan( it' ..... a" tht' conl>ultatll
for • Knitting 10 1," all anid t' in Martlm Srtwarr Livifl,t,. N,(O d,,'~
lin t book, u /u fWffI the /l rrir,
St~ncd
her on
a p;lth of h islOfil..J rexardl into all Iypes ofiact , in.:luding tm ing, crochet, and bohbin lJ,t·e. H l'T .<e(:oLld book was K~Jjmd Sht,W!.·, S/uln, {HId $cd,,1t'S (Mani ngale & Company. 200 1). KniTtld SIl.'f!Iltm fo r bx? Stll..tm (Martingale & C"mp.my, 200 2), Nancie"S third hook, ....':IS b:J...ed on Inc techniques in the stu wi book. Nanci" li\'e'~ in Coupeville. W:uhinglOn, with her husband. UjU AU\Vlrer, .uK! tncir 1....1:) dog\, C hristina ;lnd Am ber.
'43
INDEX h~nd~ ,
91
JOllllllg new run, 129 knlltlllg In the ruund. 133 incrc'l)(':S. 26 knit in front and b~{k of a
buul ofTs. -19 grafring, 54-;5 I-cord. 56-57 kllch~ncr ~!ltch.
q
itch or b.n,
1.7-29
54-S5
knit IWO IOgclhcr. 52-5 ~ picOi . 58-59 IhrC"C'· nl"t'dlc for ~hollldt'n. -2--6
makc one, 30-31 r.1I~ ,
31.-U
mOlh_~.
(r,ldltionaL ')0-51
blo...kmg. Hi- I 'K) bordrr~, 91 bUlTon b.lIab, 96-1)9 bunonholn . 1\1 uocht'{· !oop. 122- 1B dllt'rmining pl;lCemrnl ur. 140-141
136-13Ileckbands, ,)4-,)S n('\\ p .rn, Jommg, 129 Ilnlcbuoks, kl>.:pmg. 138 OI'(' mQrkt'd yarn, 'hrmklllg, 8 picking up ~Ii[ch('<, 86 <)0 pm blocking, US I'Llllmng a prowct. 13ij...141
tilUshmg ",;Ih bunooMlc slurn, 1!6-1 r
pockm, 83-8S
l-cord.loop.120-121
,(',"fofllng , 131 -132 r('\'.. ~ ~lIlgl .. crochet . 10K 110 );\tt'~ pins, knlf{er'<, 14J \,-Jms, (.0.-61 bllldmg off ,II ~houldcr. ~5--6 garln stitch. 68-69 graftillg ~mches :II, 80 mSO'r l)(Xh'I, 83-HS klllhl'nC'r \11«,11, -- -9 pale-h pock..t , 81-82 short -n,)\\ shaping ,If, ~1-- 4 ~!,Irring:l nt'W Plec(' of yarn 31 , 61 sl,lrting al C.lSH.1n edge for, 61 "o\<'n should.,. ~0---1 ...."'Cll, 63--67 >:<,1< oIf;es, 43 duuble ~ stitch, 4M gatlcr ~1II(h """ Muc kin cm' ~nrch,
(ho mom;tll. 11 4-1 1-:" two-row (hom,nnra l), J 12- 11 J
011(',((",
H'rtlClI.
wQrk~
115- 116 in crochct OOrdcr. 114- 115
)Jrn -ov('.r. 11 8--119
{.I.rlng for sW(,3.(cr~ Jnn '-.un, IJ6-U'" ('obi OilS, 9 Glb1.-,14-15 ch,lInlxl. 18- J ') knilfcd -(In. l l- U long {.Iil, 10-11
1'1(.0(.16--\pro\))ionaL 14-25
tubular. 20-23 umng ofT. 5« bind ofE Cl rwl.u kninl"g. 133
cmb ~Iitch, 108- 110 crochet. 104- 110, ill- lB. 131 dt'Cn:a~<'s.
40-4-
(emfa! cbain. Y)-40 dt'lt'rmining plilcemcnt
or, 140- 142 doubl .. c.. ntr.ll, 41-42 knil n..·o IOgt'Ihcf and purl IWU legem.. r. 3)-,36 ~ Iip , ~llp, knit and )llp, ~Iip. purl, enl.b. handling long, H cnd~, w ..:I\·ing in. 130-131 crror-. In nirching, 8 finl~hing. rips on , 8 "rafting stitches, 80
r-3a
h.. ms.92- 9) J-cord, 56-57. 102- 103, 120--121
:tt bq;lnnlllg of .. n~r} 44-45 JhouldO'r pads, 131 5hould{"D, 6}-67. ~O-- -<), 131 ~h nnklllg l)\'O'm'Ofkt'(\ \;trn. H
)Iip 'Iill.h
34
~lnblecroch"l, l06-IO~
fOil .
,.
r,.
....
