The Greek Islands (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

Eyewitness TRAVEL THE GREEK ISLANDS beaches • ancient sites watersports • ferries maps • monasteries temples • resorts...

Author: Marc Dubin

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Eyewitness TRAVEL

THE GREEK ISLANDS

beaches • ancient sites watersports • ferries maps • monasteries temples • resorts • towns seafood • tavernas • hotels The guides that show you what others only tell you

A SHORT STAY IN ATHENS

THE SPORADES AND EVVOIA

ATHENS

THE IONIAN ISLANDS

THE ARGO-SARONIC ISLANDS

THE CYCLADES

0 km

100

0 miles

100

THE NORTHEAST AEGEAN ISLANDS

THE DODECANESE

CRETE

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

THE GREEK ISLANDS

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

THE GREEK ISLANDS MAIN CONSULTANT: MARC DUBIN

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The Turkish Prince Cem arriving in Rhodes (15th century)

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Κλυμνο

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14,000. Póthia. behind marketplace, Póthia.

Plateía Taxi, Póthia (22430 59141). Póthia: Mon–Sat. Easter celebrations around island: Easter Sat; Sponge week at Póthia: week following Greek Easter.

Sponge Factory Plateía Eleftherías. Tel 22430 28501. daily. main public hols.

@1>2348.8*&8>94,*9&74:3) <.9-&,44)':88*7;.(*949-* ;.11&,*8&3)3:2*74:89&=.8 Kolonóstilo "-.874(0>.81&3)-&89-7** 24:39&.37&3,*89-*5*&08 Kastélli 4++8*9'>)**5+/47)1.0*.31*98 Arginónta 479-<*894+D9-.&9-*8:' TELENDOS Armeós Drasónia :7'4+F14.<.9-.989-7** Masoúri )*7*1.(9<.3)2.118'1*3)8.394 Myrtiés Chorió9-*57*99><-.9*94<3 &3)+472*7(&5.9&1 Armiés Metóchi 39-*<&>89&3) Kamári Plátanos Pánormos .3,949-*1*+9.89-* Rína Péra Daskalió 7:.3*) Castle of the Kástro Cave Chorió Knights&3)&'4;* Cave of Seven Virgins ;.&89*58+742-47.D .89-*(.9&)*14+Péra Castle of POTHIA the Knights Kástro 4114<.3,& ":70.8-&99&(09-.8 Vothýnoi Kos, +479.+.*);.11&,* Nísyros, <&8.3-&'.9*) Psérimos Piraeus +7429-* 9-94 NERA "-.8 9-(*39:7> 9-* 9-(*39:7>9 The Mermaid at -&8,44);.*<8&3) (&9-*)7&1-&8&7*7*)48 Póthia harbour 3.3*<-.9*(-&5*18 8(7**3'*-.3)9-*&19&7 Léros Astypálaia '>.&334E1.8-&1*5@8 89&3)439-*(7&,8 KEY " "-**72&.)&99-* "-* Cave of Seven Virgins For key to map see back flap 59@&79-A3438-4<897&(*8 -&7'4:7.843*4+ <4708 4+3>25-<478-.5*,*3)-&8 9-&9<*7*)43&9*)949-* .81&3)'>14(&18(:1594787*3* .99-&99-*8*;*3;.7,.38-.)-*7* 0 kilometres 5 +7425.7&9*8':9).8&55*&7*).3 &3).([email protected]D00.348 9-*'499421*88(-&33*1'*14< "-* Archaeological 0 miles 3 "-*2&.37*84798439-* Museum-4:8*).3&*4 Póthia .81&3)&7*897:3,4:9&143,9-* 1&88.(&12&38.43-&8'**3 "-*(&5.9&1&3)2&.354794+ 9-*.81&3).8&':8><470.3, -&7'4:7$*),*)'*9<**3 9<424:39&.389-*94<38 '7.,-91>5&.39*)-4:8*8(:7;* &74:3)9-*'&> D9-.&.8-42*947**(*8 1&898543,*+1**9&3)9-*7*.8& 8543,*).;.3,8(-441439-* *&89*738.)*4+9-*-&7'4:7 "-*<&9*7+7439.81.3*)<.9- (&+A8&3)9-*2&.31&3)2&708 &7*9-*5.30)42*)9&1.&3&9* ':.1).3,8.3(1:).3,9-*41) Governor’s Palace<-.(-34< -4:8*89-*2&70*9&3)9-* 8.1;*7)42*)(&9-*)7&14+ Agios Christós41>-7.89 View of Póthia and harbour Palaiónissos

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Archaeological Museum Near Plateía Kŷprou. Tel 22430 23113. Tue–Sun. main public hols.

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Around the Island

Emporeiós

1&;.8-1>7*(43897:(9*)&3)9-*7* .8&(411*(9.434+*41.9-.(&3) 743?*,*+.3)8+7429-* .81&3)51:814(&12*247&'.1.& "-* Sponge Factory /:894++ 1&9*B&1*+9-*7B&8-&8&(42 51*9*-.8947>4+8543,*8

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp309–12 and pp334–6

Outlying Islands

SPONGE FISHING AROUND KALYMNOS @1>2348-&8'**3&8543,*+.8-.3,(*397*+742 &3(.*399.2*8&19-4:,-+.8-.3,7*897.(9.438&3) 8543,*'1.,-9-&;*-.99-*97&)*.3 7*(*39>*&783(* .3,7*&9)*2&3)8543,*8<*7*:8*) +479-*!:19&38-&7*2+475&)).3,.3 &724:7&3)1&9*7+47(482*9.(&3) .3):897.&15:7548*8.;*78<*7* <*.,-*))4<3<.9-74(0847:8*)(7:)*&.7 &55&7&9:8&3)2&3>2*3<*7*)74<3*)47).*) 4+9-*'*3)8"-*<**0'*+47*@1>23488+1**9 8*984:994+.8-.89-* !"47 !543,*$**0*89.;&1.;*78 &7*,.;*3&(*1*'7&947>8*3)4++ <.9-+44))7.30&3))&3(.3, .397&).9.43&1(489:2*

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100,000. 25 km (16 miles) SW of Rhodes town. Commercial harbour, Rhodes town. Rhodes town (22410 23655). Rodíni Park Wine Festival, outskirts of Rhodes town: end Aug.

Kastellórizo

RHODES TOWN

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Kalavárda

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Ancient Kámeiros

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Foúrnoi

Moní Thárri

Istrios

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Profília

(25 miles) S of Rhodes town. 40 km to Laérma. daily. Asklipieío Apolakkiá

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Lárdos

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Greece’s top islands

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

S´ymi, Kos

Chálki, Piraeus, Astypálaia

A Visitors’ Checklist&#

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10 km (6 miles) S of Rhodes town. 1,200. Réni Koskinoú 2 km (1 mile) NE.

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A church with a tiered bell tower in Koskinoú village

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp309–12 and pp334–6

The main ferry routes "#$"# "$ $# "#" "$

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Street-by-Street Map

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Tower of Spain Hammam

Ottoman Library

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Tower of the Virgin Agíou Athanasíou gate

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 42,000. Paradísi 25 km (16 miles) SW of Rhodes town. Commercial harbour. Mandráki. Sat at Zéfiros, Wed at Víronas. Rodíni Park Wine Festival, Rhodes town: end Aug. Psaropoúla 1 km (0.5 mile) SW.

Tilevólon (St Anthony’s) gate Ampouáz (d’Amboise) gate

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Koskinoú (St John’s) gate

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St Peter’s tower

Square of the Jewish Martyrs Temple of Aphrodite

Synagogue and Jewish quarter

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Tower of Italy

Eleftherías (Liberty) gate

Karetoú (Akantiá) gate

Byzantine Museum (see p180) Decorative Arts Museum (see p180)

St Paul’s tower Navarcheíou gate

Arsenal gate

STAR SIGHTS

Panagías (Virgin’s) gate

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St Catherine’s gate 0 metres 0 yards

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The walls'$6,0* )41/

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp309–12 and pp334–6

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#

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The battlements

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Ippotón. Tel 22410 23359. Aug–Sep: 8am–7pm Tue– Sun; Oct–Jul: 8:30am–3pm Tue– Sun; 12–3pm Good Fri. 1 Jan, 25 Mar, Easter Sun, 1 May, 25, 26 Dec. limited.

Entrance to Ancient Rhodes exhibition.!!,

The Chamber of the Nine Muses .'8'1'9+

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First CrossVaulted Chamber

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Entrance Street of the Knights

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Grand staircase

The First Chamber).4/789'118,+' 9:7+8'1'9++11+3/89/)248'/) Entrance to Medieval Rhodes exhibition.!!,

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A Visitors’ Checklist "&#$

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STAR FEATURES

THE FIRST GRAND MASTER $.+,/7897'3*'89+747'-3:8'-/89+7 4,9.+3/-.98<'84:10+8*+%/11'7+9 ? '7+3).03/-.9+3+-49/'9+* 94(:>".4*+8,7429.+47*4,9.+4*+) '3+8+*2/7'1%/-3414*+%/-341/$./81+,9 9.+3/-.98 (+)'2+7+2'/3+*.+7+ :39/19.+/7+=5:18/43/3

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Central Courtyard Medusa Chamber Main Gate

Foulkes de Villaret

Greece’s top sights

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INTRODUCING THE GREEK ISLANDS

DISCOVERING THE GREEK ISLANDS 1011 CHOOSING YOUR ISLAND 1213 PUTTING GREECE ON THE MAP 1415 A PORTRAIT OF THE GREEK ISLANDS 1625 THE HISTORY OF GREECE 2645 THE GREEK ISLANDS THROUGH THE YEAR 4651

!

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6*'05#4'10.;*1745#9#; THE SPORADES AND EVVOIA • First-class beachlife • Island tradition on Skýros • Unspoilt hinterland of Evvoia

Agios Nikítas beach and harbour on Lefkáda, Ionian Islands

THE IONIAN ISLANDS • Majestic island scenery • Buzzing resorts and nightlife • Corfu’s Venetian architecture

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24'66;8+..#)'59*+.'Lefkáda 1(('455*'.6'4'& $#;5$75;9+6*9+0&574('45 THE ARGO-SARONIC ISLANDS • Chic harbour towns • Kýthira’s deserted beauty • Daytrips to Athens

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View of Livádi harbour, overlooked by Chóra, on Sérifos

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Ydra harbour, surrounded by 18thcentury ship-owners’ mansions

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The fortified towers of the Palace of the Master, on Rhodes

THE NORTHEAST AEGEAN ISLANDS • Uncrowded beaches • Ancient and medieval sites • Eastern flavour of Lésvos

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Minoan Palace of Knosós, Crete, built around 1700 BC

THE CYCLADES CRETE • Pretty hilltop villages • Chic bars and nightclubs • Ancient temples on Delos

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• Spring flowers and wildlife • Minoan palaces • Hiking the Samariá Gorge

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THE DODECANESE • Ideal for island-hopping • Monastery of St-John • Rhodes’ sun, sand and sights

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The crystal waters of Síkinos, typical of the Cyclades

Available

•

Excellent

WATERSPORTS

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KEY DAY TRIPS

DIVING

SNORKELLING

•

•

•

•

• •

• •

•

• •

THE IONIAN ISLANDS CORFU PAXOS LEFKADA ITHACA KEFALLONIA ZAKYNTHOS THE ARGO-SARONIC ISLANDS

•

SALAMINA AIGINA POROS

BULGARIA

YDRA

FYR OF MACEDONIA

SPETSES KYTHIRA

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THE SPORADES AND EVVOIA SKIATHOS

ALBANIA

SKOPELOS

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ALONNISOS SKYROS

EAN

AEG

MAINLAND GREECE

TURKEY

EVVOIA

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THE NORTHEAST AEGEAN ISLANDS

SEA

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THASOS SAMOTHRAKI LIMNOS

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LESVOS CHIOS IKARIA

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SAMOS THE DODECANESE PATMOS LIPSI

LEROS

KALYMNOS

KEY The Ionian Islands The Argo-Saronic Islands The Sporades and Evvoia The Northeast Aegean Islands The Dodecanese The Cyclades Crete

KOS ASTYPALAIA NISRYOS TILOS SYMI RHODES

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CHALKI

KASTELLORIZO

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KARPATHOS THE CYCLADES ANDROS TINOS MYKONOS

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DELOS SYROS KEA KYTHNOS

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SERIFOS

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SIFNOS PAROS

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NAXOS AMORGOS IOS SIKINOS FOLEGANDROS MILOS

Kayaks for hire in Skiáthos, The Sporades and Evvoia

SANTORINI

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MAJOR AIRPORT

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SHOPPING

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UNSPOILT ISLANDS

NIGHTLIFE

ARCHAEOLOGY

WINE

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RESTAURANTS

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CYCLING

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KAYAKING

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MARINE LIFE

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SAILING/BOAT HIRE

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BIRDWATCHING

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SWIMMING

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HORSERIDING

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Fishermen mending their nets on Páros in the Cyclades A backstreet in Anógeia on Crete

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Traditional houses by the sea on Kefalloniá, the Ionian Islands

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Windmills at Olympos on the island of Kárpathos, in the Dodecanese

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HOME LIFE 7. 8-:;76)4 .:1-6,;018; $0- .)514A 1; ;<144 <0- )6, 7..1+1)4 +76<)+<; *);1+ :--3 ;7+1)4 =61< $0- +4);;1+ 8741<1+)4 %6,-: <:),1<176)4 1;4)6, ,-;1/6)<176; 7. "1/0< 4)6, ,1;<:1*=<176 )6, )6, -.< 0)>- 764A )/:1+=4<=:)4 8:)+<1+-; )+9=1:-, <0-1: +76>-6 76- .)514A +7=4, ;7? <176)4 5-)616/; 16 847=/0)6,:-)81<;7?6 :--+-;16+-<0- ; .1-4,; ?1<07=< <0- 0-48 576/ 8741<1+1)6; <0- 7. +778-:)<1>- ?7:3 ,7516)6< .1/=:- 7. <0- 8):<1-; $7,)A; .)514A -):4A <0 +-6<=:A ?); :=6 *=;16-;;-; ):- ;<144 <0- )6<1:7A)41;< 1*-:)4 <0- 67:5 16 <0- 5)6A 4-.<0G:17; &-61BG47; Thriving Pythagóreio harbour 87:< <7?6; ::)6/-, ?07 +)5- .:75 :-<- on the island of Sámos 5)::1)/-; )6, /:)6<16/ $0- A-):; ;16+- '7:4, '):0)>-*--67>-:;0),7?-,*A 7.,7?:1-;<07=/067<>-:A+75576 - ?1<0 <0-1: 8):-6<; 7: )67<0-: 0-), 7. <0- !)60-44-61+ #7+1)41;< :-4)<1>- =6<14 5)::1)/- )6, 7=<;1,- 7>-5-6< !# )6, <0- 4)<- <0- 4):/-;< =61>-:;1)<1>- 8:-51-: 76;<)6-: :--+- ,):- <7 +70)*1< C16 4773; 57:- <0)6 413-4A <7 );;-:< 1<; ;16E 014,:-6 .:75 =6,-:4A16/ )43)6 1,-6<1- ?014- 8):<1+=4):4A ?1<0 4*)61) 0)>- )<<-6,16/ ;-+76,):A 158:7>-, +76;1,-:)*4A ;16+- <0- .)44 ;+0774 76 <0- 4):/-: at Crete’s 7. <0- 755=61;< :-/15- <0-:- 16 1;4)6,; -;81<- <0- Fish Réthymno market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man with his donkey in Męykonos town in the Cyclades

+ %$,&(+#$- -.+ /+$ ,"+ -&2 / ( -0 (( $"#).+$("$,&(, - ,*$- -# !--#--# " ( +$$,&(#)., ) ,()- 1$,--# + + ,#+ #+- +$,-$, 0$-#$(( -0 ($,&("+).*,# ( -$(,$( + - -# 2& ,)($( ,&(,( ) ( , (-# --)'(,$( -# )+-# ,- " (,-+)("&2$(!&. ( -# $($" ().,.$&$(",-2& , / &)* 2 / +(.&+.$& +, Venetian-style external chimney

View of the town of Chóra on Astypálaia in the Dodecanese, with the kástro above Sash windows with shutters

Carved stone ornamentation

The top floor

0,!)+ + $/$(" ". ,-,( ,& *$("

Sachnísia)+

)/ +#(",0 + .$&-)!&-#( *&,- +( ,.**)+- 2 0)) ((-$& / +,

The kitchen

0,)(-# '$& ,-)+ 2 Venetian-style town houses%$ '))'%#$ ( ))% )$)*'.%*&) %$)$ * ")'%*$%*').') '%*$"%%',(*(%'()%'

The stone ground floor

Arcade on ground floor supporting veranda

#)., ($'&, (-))&, Lesvian pýrgoi '%') )%,',"" $())$)'%'# $ ()) '()* ") $))$)*'. #%()(*'+ + $-#&"(' )$)*'. $%*$$'.) "2$ )%,$

Rainwater gutter

Double “French” windows of the parlour

Sífnos archontiká%')%,$%*((' %*$).& "". $0()'% ')#3$($ )+)2.'),%()%'.( %&&%()%)%$()%'.'*'"%))

KASTRO ARCHITECTURE # %3,-+))+!)+-+ ,,0 &&$(")! (-5*+),- ,!+)'-# -# (-.+2 -$,-# *.+ ,-!)+')! ( -$( *$+- ,! -)0(*&($(-# 2& , Central cistern for rainwater

Chimneypot from broken urn

Stairway to central court

Plaster and whitewash surface

Houses facing inwards on to the central court

Single entrance

Plan of a courtyard kástro

Kástro housefronts, )) '' )$"() '(( )'%$ )%$)'"%*').'%'' %$''%,"$(, )" # )(( '%#%*)( (,',""(+) $., $%,(0()'' %*$%$2! $%(2#%"%(2$%( $)2&'%($%"1$'%(

The flat roof

The roof$,)!-

( ., !)++2$(" !+.$-$(-# ,.'' +

$,' )! )'*- +-#+ ( ,( , 0 Decorated plates on the walls Corner fireplace Choklákia

* & '),$ !&))+,+ #+- +$,-$)! -# ) ( , This Rhodian house interior

(( # "')%)%( $%*((%$ !4'%($')$".)# $%%' $, $%,( $)'%$),""%&$ $%$)% )+"2%'%*').'") $" )',' ,, $%,()%#!)()*(% ,""(&$)%# $ # /(*' ).' (!(

Side and back walls#/ ()

0$()0, The raised sleeping platform#,

The canvas sails0

+ !.+& )+$("-)-# 0$(,,-+ ("-#

,-)+" # ,- ( -#

The soaring arch

-#-$/$ ,-# $(- +$)+& ("-#0$, $,&,)!).($( + -(#)., ,

Thatched roof

Windmills'%*$%$

#%()%) ("$( $) ."($%$( ))',) '%,$' $ # ""(*$) %$ &' $ &"".),$*".$ &)#')')'+(),,%'! )%.-&)(" + $#*(*#(

The masts and roof section).& +)--

-)! -# *+ /$&$("0$(

Stone walls

LOCAL BUILDING METHODS AND MATERIALS /',)(+2$,!).()(-# /)&($$,&(, )!4,/),5'(),5,2+),(5&),# / +,-$& ( ,$&2,*&$-,#$,-$,., $(-# 2& ,0#$& &$"#-0 $"#-&-#(*&,- + $($- ,--)'($(!&. ( ($,*+ /& (- )(3'),4,/),-# *)+ ,()-# + ()+-# +($,&(,.(+.& )(,-+.-$)($,)'')()(&&-# $,&(, !)+') ,-0 &&$(",,$,-# 3#)+!&- +))!)!-+ -+.(%,,.**)+-$("*% + Unmortared wall of ( ,)/ +&$0$-#, 0 ( +-# schist slabs

Masoned volcanic boulders

Slate (or “fish-scale”) roof

Arched buttresses for earthquake protection

Pantiled roof, found in the Dodecanese

Flat earthen roof or dóma

2)(#,-(+,-" #-++(((!(+ ,'&&/#+-.&&2&(&)%,, 0#-"(++)0-#&+(!"#, '(,-"-+&-#/&2&#--&'+#( &# #,1*),-&)0-#&-").!" ),-&*&(-,(,")+&#(#+, Triton +) -(.((- )0/+# shell 2).,()+%&&),-)-",")+)+ #/&)0-",.+ ) -"3.+),-& 0-+,0&-") *&(-((#'&&# ( ).("+-.+,+(!#(,#3 +)' '2+#,")&,) -#(2 #,"(#(-2, ,&.!,-)!#(-'+#(-.+-&,".! #,"( #'*),#(!,*#++,

The great pipefish’s#(""(

"#!!#"&# %"!""&# !#!"&&#!"## &"! Sea spurge

Mediterranean gull

Masked crab

Tama risk Yellowhorned poppy

The spiny spider crab" $(&!%! &#!$#"$!!"( "#%#"# "&#### !"#(!$"( Neptune grass (Posidonia)

Fan mussels Red mullet

TOP SNORKELLING AREAS ()+%&&#(!(($)2&'),- (20"++).(-" +% ),-&-").!"+')-++,+ !(+&&2')++0+#(! 4 &&)(#5(5%2(-"),2). '2 #(++&)!!+"-.+-& ") -",-),- 4"),0#/+#-2) #,"(+ 6(),)(-","&-+,-),- 4 //)#-","&-+0-+,) -"0,-),-"+).+,*)(!, 4(-)+6(#-"/)&(#+)%) -"&+",,"+* +)*) ,-)1*&)+

Codium bursa Sea slug

Murex

The octopus

#"#"!(!" ""&## !&"&!$"$!" #"#"# "#"$!" $) #!$##"#!%"

The sea turtle!!""( "#(#"""( #(##!$"#$!"#" & !"#"!&% !!##!"#$!

This jellyfish*(#&"!+$"" $(#####&" !""#" #!"&#&"#$ ## &!"&! %# ##!##"" ""#$"#"

Redshank Sea balls

Sea horses!"$!!"( #""!$

! (#% ""!""$!#! #"!$##"#!% !!$"$(! "#("&!#!# %!$ &$#"""! Pilchard Bath sponge

Moray eel

Violet sea snail Shore crab

A John Dory"

"#"#"# #!" "!!"#" ##% "( !("#" !"! #"""# !"$#!'# "%$" !!( #% $"#%

Red gurnard

The swimming crab"#"# !""%!"# $#"&$"### #"#""

SAFETY TIPS FOR SNORKELLING 4#-++((,-)+',(++#/).-) ()0"+ ,),%&)&/#).-0-"+(,0#''#(! )(#-#)(, )+2).!),()+%&&#(! 4 )()-!),()+%&&#(!# $&&2 #,"+#(-"+ 4%2).+)0(,()+%&(',%0#-"2).-) (,.+2)..,)(-"- #-,*+)*+&2 4/+,()+%&.()'*(# 4+,"#+-)+0-,.#--)/)#,.(.+( 4/)#,0#''#(!(++#/+').-",( "+).+,"0-+,0#&&&).2(-"+ '2+#,%, +)')-,(*)&&.-#)( 4&02,,-#%&),-)-",")+("%2).+ *),#-#)( +)'-#'-)-#'

! " !

! !% 83 (314*8* ;.8- 8-* !-* -.7836= 3+ 6**(* .7 8831&27+36(3286303+8-* 8-&8 3+ & 2&8.32 238 3+ & .14368&28 86&)* 6398*7 .2 0&2) 8-* 6**/ .)*& 3+ 8-* 32.&2 &2) *,*&2 2&8.32&0.8= .7 ,3:*62*) '= 7*&7 :*289&00= 8-* 6*&0. 0&2,9&,* 6*0.,.32 )*7(*28 >&8.32 8-&8 .8 ;&7 8-* &2) (978317 238 73 19(- )*13(6&(= 3+ 0&77.(&0 '= 03(&8.32 &60= 6**/ 8-*27 8-&8 -&) .274.6*) -.7836= .7 8-* 7836= 3+ .28*62&07869,,0*7+6318-* Alexander the Great, by 731&2=6*:3098.327&'63&) =(*2&*&2 &2) .23&2 the folk artist Theófilos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

;-*2 2 ;-*2 3278&28.2340* +*00 8&0= 6*8962*) 8-* 3)*(&2*7* 3; 838-*8831&27 6**(*).7&44*&6*) &2*78&'0.7-*))*13(6&(=&2)1*1 &7 & 430.8.(&0 *28.8= !-* #*2*8.&2 '*63+8-*9634*&2"2.32 6**(*7 6*49'0.(59.(/0=*78&'0.7-*)+3686*77*7 +36892*77**183-&:*(31*+900(.6 32 8-* (3&78 &2) .70&2)7 .2 36)*6 (0*&+8*6=*&673++36*.,2690*

A map of Greece from the 1595 Atlas of Abraham Ortelius called Theatrum Orbis Terrarum

The Knights of the Order of St John from a 15th-century history of the siege of Rhodes

63+/)5*'30/:')'5*3''4'1#3#5' %+7+-+:#5+0/4(-063+4*'&+/3''%' 5*'9%-#&+% &63+/)5*'3&.+--'//+6. 5*'+/0#/$#4'& 0/ 3'5'$658+5*#/+/(-6'/%'5*#5413'#& 5*306)*0655*'')'#/ 4-#/&4 #/&5*' 9%'/#'#/8*+%*8#4$#4'&0/5*'.#+/-#/& Mycenaean gold $65413'#&503'5'+/#$065 8*'/5*' brooch +/0#/48'/5+/50&'%-+/'05*5*'+/0#/ #/&9%'/#'#/%6-563'4(06/&5*'+31'#,+/5*'#-#%' 1'3+0&40(5*'/&.+--'//+6.8*'/ 5*'98'3'&0.+/#5'&$9#%'/53#-+:'&3'-+)+0/ #/&$63'#6%3#%9

PREHISTORIC GREECE Areas settled in the Bronze Age

%&/#&$1."3/#,1+!,+ ):++&/,/&+0%"-,.!"/0 -.,)5."-."/"+0/ #".0&)&05$,!!"//3%,3/ 3,./%&--"!5 #.*"./0,"+/1." $,,!%.2"/0 %"/"#&$1."/&+! & 0" ".0&+ /0&)&05&+".)5 ,**1+&0&"/ The town is unwalled,4*08+/)5*#5 +/*#$+5#/54&+&/05('#3#55#%,

! .)"/001"//1 %/0%&/ -.,!1 "!&+0%".,+6"$" #.,*,10 0, %2"""+#,1+!&++1*". ,#0,*/&+0%"5 )!"/ Multistorey houses

%&/05-",# ,##&+ !0&+$0, &/ #,1+!,+)5&+&+,+.0 03/-.,)51/"!#,. %&$%/001/1.&) TIMELINE 7000 '0-+5*+%

(#3.'34+//035*'3/ 3''%'

200,000 BC

5000 BC

3200 ')+//+/)40( 30/:')'%6-563'4 +/ 9%-#&'4#/& 3'5'

4000 BC

3'',41'#,'340/ .#+/-#/& 3''%'

3000 BC 2800–2300 <304

200,000 7+&'/%'0(

#-#'0-+5*+%%+7+-+:#5+0/+/ /035*'3/3''%'#/& *'44#-9

2000 33+7#-0((+345

7.5&+$+9 2"//")#.,* ;.,/

8

?304%6-563' (-063+4*'4+/9%-#&'4

2000 6+-&+/)0(1#-#%'4$')+/4+/

3'5'+/+5+#5+/)+345 #-#%'1'3+0&

2000 BC

"

! .$"*,1+0/,# 3,.("!$,)!3"." !&/ ,2"."!&+0%" "),-,++"/"0 5 "+"0%" + &"+0 &05,# $*"*+,+ /(/)&("0%&/ 3".")&!,2".0%" # "/,#0%"!"! Forested hills

The inhabitants

#3'0/ (3+'/&-9 5'3.48+5* 5*'7+4+5034

WHERE TO SEE PREHISTORIC GREECE *'64'6.0(9%-#&+% 35 +/ 5*'/4 /""- *#45*' -'#&+/)%0--'%5+0/0(9%-#&+% (+)63+/'4+/3''%'/5*' #5+0/#- 3%*#'0-0)+%#- 64'6. - 9%'/#'#/ )0-&#/&05*'313'*+4503+% #35+(#%54#3'0/&+41-#9 ,305=3+- 0/#/503=/+ +/5*'9%-#&'4*#4+/0#/ $6+-&+/)44637+7+/)61505*' 5*+3&4503'9*'%+590(*9-# ,01+0/=-04- #-40*#4 9%'/#'#/8#--4+/)50 3'5'5*'%'/53'0( +/0#/%+7+-+:#5+0/*#45*' 1#-#%'40(/04>4 -- 8 *#'4504 -- 8#/&)=# 3+;&# -

! 5 "+"+ &0!")// 0%&/,+"0&.5+/&+0%" "),-,++"/"3".""+ &. )"!53))/,#/0,+" /,).$"0%0)0". &2&)& 60&,+/")&"2"!0%"5%! ""+1&)05$&+0/0&/ 1+ )".3%"0%".0%" 3))/3"."1/"!#,.!" #"+ ",.'1/00,&*-."// Oared sailing ships

!

%&/ 0% "+01.5 2/"/!" , .0&,+#,)),3/ 0%"/%-",#0%" -,0"/0.&+"!+! /5**"0.& )&0 ,+0./0/3&0%.")4"! &+,+-.,0,05-"/

MINOAN SEA SCENE *'8#--1#+/5+/)40/#/503=/+/"" -- 8 8'3'13'4'37'&$95*'70-%#/+% '3615+0/#55*''/&0(5*'5*%'/5639 *+44'%5+0/4*0844*+14&'1#35+/) (30.#%0#45#-508//%0/53#45505*' 8#3-+,'9%'/#'#/4+/0#/#353'(-'%54# .03'45#$-'%0..6/+598*+%*&0.+/#5'& 5*'')'#/5*306)*53#&'/05%0/26'45

1250–120030$#$-'&'4536%5+0/0(309

1750–1700

5#350('%0/& #-#%'1'3+0& #/&)0-&'/#)' 0(+/0#/ %6-563'+/3'5'

1525!0-%#/+%'3615+0/

0/ #/503=/+&'7#45#5'4 5*'3')+0/

1800 BC 1730 '4536%5+0/0(

+/0#/1#-#%'4 '/& 0(+345#-#%'1'3+0& 1600')+//+/)0(*+)*1'3+0&0( 9%'/#'#/13041'3+59#/&&0.+/#/%'

1600 BC

#(5'3#$&6%5+0/0('-'/ /""-

14509%'/#'#/45#,'

07'3 /04>4 64'0(+/'#34%3+15 1400 BC &+,+ #&$1.&+",# /+("$,!!"//

")"+,# .,5

1200 BC 1200 0--#14'0( 9%'/#'#/%6-563' 1370–50#-#%'0(/04>40/

3'5'&'45309'&(034'%0/&5+.'

."#/54 2&&$& &.4&2&%"0&2*/%/'%"2+ .&33)&2&7"37*%&302&"% 0/6&2494)&0/05,"4*/. %&$2&"3&%".%-".93+*,,3 7&2&,/34$5,452",2&6*6",*. Silver coin "#/54 "$$/-0".*&%4)& from Athens &-&2(&.$&/'4)&$*4934"4&3 "$2/332&&$&".%*.30*2&%.&7349,&3/' 7"2'"2&"24".%0/,*4*$32&&+$/,/.*&3 7&2&&34"#,*3)&%"3'"2"7"9"34)&,"$+ &"02&3&.4%"9 92*" /24) '2*$"".% 4)&7&34&2.&%*4&22".&".2&&$&7"3 %&'*.&%#97)&2&2&&+3,*6&%

/A2/*4#/##/)6 *,+2*#+1)*)#+2"# 0112#0"#)'7#"/#-/# 0#+11',+0/1&#/1&+ -,/1/'101@#/#'+0-'/#" 6%6-1'+0112#0$/,* Bronze 4&'!&1=(#1&#'/ breastplate $/,+1)$,/4/" 01#--'+%-,0#

MEDITERRANEAN AREA, 479 BC Areas of Greek influence The double flute0,"9&2+&04

4)&-&.-"2$)*.(*.4*-& Bronze greaves

02/4&$4&%4)&,&(3

8 ,),+40--,'+1#"1, 1&#&'%*%'01#/') -,0'1',+'+1&#+0'0 )#%)#!,+,*'!+" -,)'1'!)/#$,/*0 &#/)"#" "#*,!/!6

HOPLITE WARRIORS )&;)*(*<6"3&'2/-/2*.4)%"4*.(4/ "#/54 *3/.&/'4)&&"2,*&34$,&"2 %&0*$4*/.3/'4)&.&7349,&/'7"2'"2&4)"4 &6/,6&%"44)"40&2*/%)*32&15*2&% 2*(/2/53,942"*.&%".%)&"6*,9"2-&% *.'".429-&.$",,&%)/0,*4&34/'*()4*." -"33&%'/2-"4*/./20)",".8)&2*3&/' 4)&$*4934"4&-"9#&,*.+&%4/4)&30*2*4 /'&15",*49'&,4#9$*4*:&.)/0,*4&3'*()4*.( '/24)&*2/7.$/--5.*49

TIMELINE 900 00&"2".$& /''*234 &/-&42*$ 0/44&29

0#$/%*#+1 0&,4'+% +"0,$ "'01'+!1'3#%#,*#1/'! )'+#-11#/+0 1100 BC 1100 *(2"4*/.3/' %*''&2&.40&/0,&3 4)2/5()/544)& 2&&+7/2,%

1000 BC 1000–850 /2-"4*/. /'4)&/-&2*$ +*.(%/-3

900 BC

!

WHERE TO SEE ARCHAIC GREECE 8"-0,&3/'(,9/,'$".#&'/5.%*. 4)& "4*/.", 2$)"&/,/(*$",53&5- 0##- ".%*.4)&$2/0/,*3 53&5-- #/4)*.4)&.3 )&"4*/.",2$)"&/,/(*$",53&5- ",3/)/53&34)&."4*/.",$/,,&$4*/. /' 2&&+&/-&42*$2&%'*(52&".% #,"$+'*(52&6"3&3,% (,9/,',*&*. 4)&/,%-"2#,&15"229/.=8/3 -- 8

=-/3#/"3434)&*- 02&33*6&'0",?.&*/45..&,- ".%"$/,,&$4*/./'(,9/,' - &,/3)"3"4&22"$&/'2$)"*$,*/.3 -- 8".%4)&/2*$4&-0,&/' 0)"*"/.?(*."*37&,,02&3&26&% --8","*@+"342//.?392/3 )"3)5(&'/24*'*$"4*/.3-

&'0 ,4)+2"4&2 $,/*'5'+%4'+# +"41#/1 #)#%+1$#010'0+ #/)6#5*-)#,$1&# /1,$30#-'+1'+% 1"#-'!10*61&,),%'!) +"&#/,'!0!#+#0 Bronze helmets for protection

Spears7&2&53&%'/2 4)2534*.(

The phalanxes

3)/6&%".% 053)&%"*-*.(4/ -"*.4"*.". 5.#2/+&.3)*&,% 7",,"35$$&33'5, .&74&$).*15&

Gorgon’s head decoration

Characteristic round shields

2+1'+%$,/&/#0 "##/,/4')" ,/40 +/'01,!/1'!0-,/1 -2/02#" 6/##(+, )#0 ,+$,,14'1&",%00 "#-'!1#",+1&'0!2-

776 2"%*4*/.",%"4&'/24)& '*234,9-0*$"-&3 675 9+/52(/3*.*4*"4&3 "534&2&2&'/2-3*.0"24" 800 BC

700 BC 750–700 /-&22& $/2%3&0*$4",&3/'4)& )'"".%"600#6 770 2&&+334"24'/5.%*.( -/1+ 3,1'3# $/,/.*&3*.4",9(904 $'%2/'+# ".%&,3&7)&2&

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500 BC

546 &23*".3("*.$/.42/, /6&2/.*".2&&+3 4)&.3 ',/52*3)&35.%&24)&492".4 &*3*342"4/3".% )*33/.3 630 /&4"00)/ 72*4*.(*.>36/3

480 4)&.3%&342/9&%#9 &23*".37)/%&'&"4 0"24".3"4)&2-/09,"& 2&&+6*$4/29"4 ","-*3

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CLASSICAL GREECE, 440 BC Athens and her allies Sparta and her allies

Theatre used in Pythian Games

Temple of Apollo

Siphnian Treasury

%&./% "*/0-4-""' ,&*/"!1." +)".#-+) "#(7&*& &(4-$",-/. +#/%"&.(*!2"-"&*%&/"! 4-""'.2%+2"-"+0*! 4 +))+* 0(/0-" -"(&$&+**!(*$0$"

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431–404&,/0/..&2*".

"1&.%*.(6*3)3)&'",, /' 3)&.2".%23"13/' 8&"10&1*/%/' 0"13".%/-*.".$&

462 0)*",3&221&'/1-2

0"5&3)&6"8'/11"%*$", %&-/$1"$8*. 3)&.2 475 BC

478 *3)3)& 451–429&1*+,&2 '/1-"3*/./'3)& 1*2&23/01/-*.&.$& &,*".&"(4& 3)&.2 *. 3)&.2".% 3"+&2/5&1,&"%&12)*0 ,"4.$)&2","5*2) /' 1&&+$*3*&2 #4*,%*.(01/(1"--&

450 BC

c.424 &"3)/'

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425 BC

447 /.2314$3*/./' 3)&"13)&./.#&(*.2

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WHERE TO SEE CLASSICAL GREECE

3)&.2*2%/-*."3&%#83)&

$1/0/,*2".%*321&,*(*/42 #4*,%*.(2*.$,4%*.(3)& "13)&./.&1&$3&%"20"13 /'&1*+,&22-*% 3)$&.3418 #4*,%*.(01/(1"--& ."",, 6 )&*2,".%/' &,/23)&-83)/,/(*$",#*13) 0,"$&/' 13&-*2".% 0/,,/ 6"23)&$&.31&'/13)&&,*". &"(4&3)&'*123 3)&.*". ."5",,&"(4&)&2*3&$/. 3"*.2&7"-0,&2/' 3)$&.3418 2$4,0341&,, 6 . )/%&23)& 3)$&.3418 &-0,&/' 3)&.""3:.%/2 ,, 6 *26&,,01&2&15&%

Votive of the Rhodians

Stoa of the Athenians

Sacred Way

%&.+)* +,4+# .//0"4%"&!&. 6 /%" . 0(,/+-&* %-$"/ /%" -+,+(&.!",& /. /%"$+!!"..,-+/" /+- +#/%"*.&**&!"( -/%"-/%*-"(&./& 24/4,& (+#/%" (..& (./4("&*-/

Athenian Treasury

(1".2"-"#0*! )"*/(/+/%"-""' " +*+)4*!0."! #+-((/4,".+#2+-' *4.(1".2"-" #+-"&$*/%&.++/ +4 )"#-+). #-.#-&

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*.(/'"$&%/.

400 BC

350 BC

375 BC

338 1&&+2%&'&"3&%#8)*,*0/' 399 1*",".% &7&$43*/./'/$1"3&2

"$&%/."3"33,&/')"*1/.&*"

371 0"13"%&'&"3&%#8)&#&2

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# "

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Pélla<'89.+(/79.51')+4,1+='3*+7 '3*)'5/9'14,')+*43

• Pélla • Athens

ASIA MINOR Mausoleum of Halicarnassus

• Issus

Ishtar Gate in Babylon Ammon

! #$-)'* $$(')-$-#)1-.# ,-$(& ,)0 ,1# &' . --/-$(

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Lighthouse at Alexandria

Alexander */+*/3

'(>143/3

EGYPT

ARABIA

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1+='3*+794 (+*/;/3+ Alexandria,4:3*+*(>

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KEY Alexander’s route Alexander’s empire Dependent regions

TIMELINE 3331+='3*+79.+7+'9*+,+'98

9.++78/'30/3-'7/:8'3* *+)1'7+8./28+1,0/3-4,8/'

323+'9.4,1+='3*+7 '3*4,/4-+3+8

325 BC 322+'9.

4,7/89491+ 3311+='3*+7,4:3*8

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301'991+4,58:8(+9<++3 1+='3*+787/;'18:))+88478 1+'*8949.+(7+'0:54,./8 +25/7+/3949.7++0/3-*428

300 BC

268–261

.7+243/*+'3%'7 +3*/3-
287–275?>77./)

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250 BC

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&

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WHERE TO SEE HELLENISTIC GREECE ".++-+'3<'87:1+*(>9.+ 941+2/+8/39.+7*'3* 3* )+39:7/+8,742'3)/+39 ".B7'43!'3947B3/<.+7+ 9.+7+'7++11+3/89/)7+2'/38 9.+!'3)9:'7>4,79+2B*4748 4,+7-+9.+ 4>'1479/)4 '3*9.+"+251+4,941+2> - * 3 .4*+8 94<39.+485/9'14, 9.+3/-.9834<9.+ 7).'+414-/)'1:8+:2 *.4:8+8')411+)9/43 4,+11+3/89/)8):159:7+ ".+801+5/+/434348 * <'89.+8+'94,'3 47*+74,2+*/)'157/+898".+ "4<+74,9.+%/3*8* /39.+38<'8(:/19(>9.+ ')+*43/'3'8974342+7 3*743/048>77+89+8

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4='3+,742'243- !4-*/'3)'59/;+8/3

SOGDIANI

Roxane

• Alexandropolis

• Taxil

Battle elephants<+7+:8+*'-'/389

9.+3*/'3/3-4748/3

BACTRIA

Alexander’s army9:73+* (')0'99.+ /;+7+'8

PERSIA

• Susa

Bea

s

War elephant Sculpture from Persepolis

INDIA

GEDROSIA

The Persian religious)+397+4, +78+541/8/324*+737'3,+1194 1+='3*+7/3

Alexander’s'72>8:,,+7+*.+';>

1488+8/39.++*748/'*+8+79

ALEXANDER THE GREAT’S EMPIRE 3,472/3-./8+25/7+1+='3*+7)4;+7+*.:-+*/89'3)+8 ,9+7*+,+'9/3-9.++78/'38/38/'.+24;+*94->59 9.+37+9:73+*948/'945:78:+'7/:8'3*9.+3./82:7 *+7+78/394')97/'3

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22741488:8

4, .4*+8 *+8974>+*(> +'79.6:'0+

225 BC

222')+*43 )7:8.+8!5'79'

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197 42'38*+,+'9./1/5$

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175 BC

150 BC 168')+*43/'38*+,+'9+* (> 42'38'9>*3'

)'()$( )'' '),.$(")'( 0$.),3)0 ,.# )($(-

!

THRACIA MACEDONIA

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EPIRUS

ASIA

ACHAIA

CRETE

ROMAN PROVINCES, AD 211

Roman basilica

St Paul spoke

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Springs of Peirene, the source of water

RECONSTRUCTION OF ROMAN CORINTH

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Baths of Eurycles

TIMELINE +&*+# ("+,/- 0""*+# $4,/

49–31 BC20)5'-8-/

9%45)1(9-6,6,)()*)%6 2*%4.1621;%1( /)23%64%%6'6-70-1 4))')

100 BC 86 BC20%1 '200%1()47//% '%3674)56,)15

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AD 100

AD 1 AD 66–703)424 )42627454))') 46 BC24-16,

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Temple of Octavia

Odeion or Roman covered theatre

Greek open-air theatre

Archaic Greek Temple of Apollo

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# ! $ # ! " "

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•

•

CONSTANTINOPLE

THESSALONIKI

•

ATHENS

BYZANTINE GREECE IN THE 10TH CENTURY Chapel

Watchtower of Tsimiskís

Refectory

GREAT LAVRA

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400

600 529819:6:3-9)5,

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Cypress tree of Agios Athanásios

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WHERE TO SEE BYZANTINE AND CRUSADER GREECE 5:0-59:0--5A21 ;9-;4-!!+ +65 :)1591+6594-:)3=682 9+;37:;8-)5,:->:13-95 A:469:0-:8-)9;8?6. :0-65)9:-8?6.":605 .6;5,-,15 ++ 4 19:0-81+0-9:6;:91,- 6;5::069#0- :0 +-5:;8?+65<-5:6.B) 65C650C69++ 4 0)94)/51.1+-5:/63, /86;5,469)1+9#0- 4-,1-<)3)8+01:-+:;8-6. :0- )3)+-6.:0-8)5, )9:-89)5,:0-":8--:6. :0-51/0:965!06,-9 ++ 4197)8:1+;3)83? .15-;13,15/9*?:0- 51/0:96569++4 )8-)396=68:09--15/#0- %-5-:1)5+)9:3-65 A869 + ,):-9.864

Fortified walls

Chapel of Agios Athanásios, founder of Great Lávra

The katholikón:0-4)15

+0;8+0158-):A<8)0)9:0- 469:4)/51.1+-5:?@)5:15- 4;8)39656;5::069

Combined library and treasury

1054 ):81)8+06.

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1400

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GREECE IN 1493 Areas occupied by Venetians Areas occupied by Ottomans

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ARRIVAL OF TURKISH PRINCE CEM ON RHODES &'/ 0&!#+01.4'!,+'/ 04-'!),$0&#/04)#"#2#),-#" 4.##(.0'/0/'+0&#!&,,) ,$.#0#!0'2#1+0')0&# 00,*+/0,,(.#0#'+

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06>-=-9"06,-: .-33;6;0- ;;64)5:).;-9):1-/-

TIMELINE 1453-04-;+)7;<9-:

65:;)5;156763->01+01:9- 5)4-,:;)5*<3)5,4),- +)71;)36.;0- ;;64)54719-

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1503 ;;64)5$<92:>15

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1500

1550

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1456 ;;64)5$<92:

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1600 .#0+!&'+*').*,1. $.,*0&# 0&!#+01.4

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WHERE TO SEE VENETIAN AND OTTOMAN ARCHITECTURE $0-651)5:3)5,:)9- 7)9;1+<3)93@91+015*<13,15/: ,);15/.964;0-&-5-;1)5 6++<7);165$0-63,;6>5 6.69.6 &-5-;1)5.69;9-::-:$0- +1;),-315(C2@5;06:-1: )3:6&-5-;1)59-;-0):) 5<4*-96.&-5-;1)5 *<13,15/:;0-63,769;6. 9C23-16-- 5)5,:64- 6.;0-*)+2:;9--;:6.0)51C -- 5 +65=-@)5 6=-9>0-3415/.--315/ 6.&-51+-9C23-16:.69; >1;0:;66,;0-9-);#1-/-6. B#64- ;;64)5-9) 06<:-::<9=1=-65$0C:6: - #-=-9)346:8<-:)5, 6;0-9 ;;64)5*<13,15/: 15+3<,15/)31*9)9@)5, &****);0:+)5*- :--515"06,-:63,;6>5 -- 5

The Knights6.#;605,-.1-,

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The massive fortifications

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1800 180191-A-

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,) 5))/#%53*2()4)2()2') 1%5/)(7,)39)57,53:3*7,)7731%26 %2(7,)67%573*7,)>5)%7()%?%2 %1&-7-386453.)'773&5-2+%005))/ 4)340)82()532)*0%+125,5 ,) 40%26*35);4%26-32:)5)-2-7-%00< Flag with the 68'')66*80%2((85-2+7,) 7,')2785< symbols of the 7,) 5))/668''))()(-2(38&0-2+7,)-5 Filikí Etaireía 2%7-32%07)55-735<%2(5)%66)57-2+5))/ 639)5)-+27<39)51%2<3*7,)-60%2(63:)9)5 %2%77)147737%/)7,)'-7<3* THE EMERGING GREEK STATE 3267%27-2340)&<*35')%*7)5 Greece in 1832 #350(#%5)2()(-2(-6%67)5 Areas gained 1832–1923 -2 1-00-3263*5))/6 :)5));4)00)(*5311<52%-2 Klephts13827%-2&5-+%2(6 85/-6, 2%730-%)2(-2+ :)5)7,)&%6-63*7,) 7,386%2(63*<)%563* 2()4)2()2')139)1)27 5))/45)6)2')-26-%

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4((&(5(2/$55,&$/3$4/,$0(16%7,/',1*,16+(15 9$56+(5,6(2)6+((&/$4$6,212)6+(2156,676,21,1 69$5%7,/6$56+( 2;$/$/$&()244((&(5),456 021$4&+,1*662,16+( 5 TIMELINE 1824 ,)43)735(<532(-)63*%*)9)5%7)630D2+1831

5)6-()27 %43(C675-%6 %66%66-2%7)(

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1830 1828 3@22-6%43(C675-%6 &)'31)6*-5675)6-()273* 5))')

1821 5))/*0%+3*-2()4)2()2')

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1840

1850 ,1*66247/(' =

1860

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WHERE TO SEE 19THCENTURY GREECE 2 5)7)32C 5/%(C38 5((3 -67,)6-7)3*1%66 68-'-()&<*5))(31*-+,7)56 -2

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FLAG RAISING OF 1821 REVOLUTION 27,)5))/6)'5)763'-)7<,/,.>6$,4(>$:%6 &),-2(%5)9307&<5))/3**-')56:,-',0)(73%27- 85/845-6-2+67,538+,3877,))034322)6) 5%(-7-32 '5)(-765',&-6,34)51%2D63*@75%:-7,5%-6-2+ 7,)5)&)0*0%+2)%5%0@95<7%-27,))034322)6)32 %5', ,) 6758++0)*35 -2()4)2()2') ,%(&)+82

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1893 4)2-2+3*

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1890 1899 57,85 9%26 &)+-26);'%9%7-326 %7236D6

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1900

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67%27-2)-6 ()436)( 5))') .3-26#350(#%5 1910

1912–13 5))') );7)2(6-76&35()56 (85-2+7,)%0/%2#%56

1922 85/-6,

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1920 1920 5)%7<3*

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1958 %##"9/7,(9,48 7,,*,<09/,*54530* 8(4*905480-$ 308802,80489(22,+

1946

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1945 D158 (?(49?B108 6:)208/,8 2(9,7 3(+,0495 (-023

1933 ,(9/5-

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1967 "0./9 <04.*5254,28 -573:49( -57*04.04. 5489(4904, 0495,=02,

1957 58(0*8-5:4+)> */(4*,(9!/02068 6(2(*,(9!C22(

1925

1935

1945

1955

1965

1925

1935

1945

1955

1965

1951

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1932 7089592,

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1948

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1960 >67:8

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1944 /:7*/022;08098 9/,48958/5
1963 ,E7.058

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1973 %40;,7809> 89:+,49804 9/,487,),2 (.(0489+0*9( 9578/06(4+(7, *7:8/,+ )>30209(7> -57*,8#9(79 5-+,*204, 0465<,75- +0*9(9578/06

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2002 7(*/3(

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1981

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2004 1994 ,*(:8,5-9/,

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1975

1985

1995

2005

2010

1975

1985

1995

2005

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1975

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1990 ,< ,35*7(*> ;59,+049565<,7 5489(49D458(7(3(42D8 ),*53,8!7,80+,49

2004

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1998

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1997 9/,48 08(<(7+,+ 9/, 2>360*8 1994 :756,(42,(+,78

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1996

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MARCH

SPRING

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24

(84)

(75)

18 (64)

9

17 14 (57)

(48)

(63) 5 (41)

8

14

7

5

hrs

hrs

hrs

hrs

54

0

91

153

mm

mm

mm

mm

month Apr

Jul

Oct

Jan

Average monthly maximum temperature Average monthly minimum temperature

!

THE NORTHEAST AEGEAN ISLANDS 34 °C

(93)

(F) 23 (73)

26 (79)

17 (63)

5

17 10

(63)

(50)

0 (32)

41) 8

12

7

3

hrs

hrs

hrs

hrs

28

11

50

96

mm

mm

mm

mm

month Apr

Jul

Oct

Jan

THE SPORADES AND EVVOIA

Average daily hours of sunshine Average monthly rainfall

45 (113)

°C (F)

34

33

(93)

(91)

25 (77)

14 (57)

THE ARGOSARONIC ISLANDS 42 (108) °C

32

(F)

(90)

4

1 (34)

Athens •

21 16 (61)

(70)

7

11

6

3

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hrs

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32

2

36

41

mm

mm

mm

mm

month Apr

Jul

Oct

Jan

7 (45)

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8

12

6

4

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23

6

51

62

mm

mm

mm

mm

month Apr

Jul

Oct

Jan

THE CYCLADES

CRETE

THE DODECANESE 40

(F)

35

33

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(91) 20 (68)

10 (50)

°C

29

(F)

(84)

30 (86)

19 13

(66)

(55)

6 (43)

(95)

31

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31

(88)

(F)

(88)

(64) 8

(104)

33 (91) 22

21

18 12 (54)

(46)

(72)

15

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(59) 5

5

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(41)

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19

2

45

91

26

1

64

95

25

3

61

149

mm

mm

mm

mm

mm

mm

mm

mm

mm

mm

mm

mm

month Apr

Jul

Oct

Jan

month Apr

Jul

Oct

Jan

month Apr

Jul

Oct

Jan

ANCIENT GREECE

GODS, GODDESSES AND HEROES 5455 THE TROJAN WAR 5657 GREEK WRITERS AND PHILOSOPHERS 5859 TEMPLE ARCHITECTURE 6061 VASES AND VASE PAINTING 6263

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"-*8947>4+9-*"74/&3$&7+.789 3&77&9*).39-* 42*789- (*39:7>*5.(54*29*118 -4<9-*7**0884:,-994&;*3,* 9-*(&59:7*4+*1*3<.+*4+ *3*1&48.3,4+!5&79&'>9-* Ajax carrying the "74/&357.3(*&7.8"-* 42&3<7.9*7 body of the dead #.7,.19&0*8:59-*8947>.39-* Achilles <-*7*-*9*1184+9-*8&(04+"74>&3) 9-*+4:3).3,4+ 42* *(*39&7(-&*414,.(&1*;.)*3(* Achilles binding up the battle 4+9-*7*2&.384+&(.9>.)*39.+.*)<.9-&3(.*39"74>.3 wounds of his friend Patroklos 24)*73":70*>8:,,*8989-&99-*2>9-2&>-&;*& '&8.8.3+&(9&3>4+9-*&3(.*398.9*8.39-**14543 PATROKLOS AVENGED 3*8*8:(-&8>(*3&*&3)>148&7*9-4:,-994'* 9-*(.9.*84+842*4+9-*-*74*84+9-*"74/&3$&7 *+:8.3,*(9478)>.3, <.8-94&114<-.8'4)>94 -45.3,+47&)*(.8.;*;.(947> '*7&3842*)(-.11*8 9-* 7**0(&25.89473&5&79 .389*&)-.9(-*8.9:594-.8 GATHERING OF THE '>9-*+:7>4+(-.11*84;*7 HEROES (-&7.49'>9-*&301*8&3) ,&2*234387*24;&14+-.8 )7&,8.974:3)9-*<&1184+ 81&;*,.717.8*.8"-*-*74 $-*3&7.8 "74>9-*39&0*8.9'&(094 9&0*894-.89*39&3)7*+:8*8 9-* 7**0(&253(4397&89 (&77.*8*1*3'&(0 &)&2&391>94+.,-9 94 "74>-*7-:8'&3).3, &9740148.8,.;*39-*2489 *3*1&488:22438&3&72> *1&'47&9*+:3*7&15488.'1* *57.;*)4+9-*.7,7*&9*89 4+ 7**00.3,8&3)-*74*894 <&77.479-*7**08&7*)7.;*3 <.9-&-:,*5>7*8&(7.+.(*8 &;*3,*9-.8(7.2*.8'749- '&(0'>9-*"74/&383)*8 4+&3.2&18&3)"74/&357.8 *7.3,,&2*23434+ 5*7&9.43&97401485*78:&)*8 43*78&3)+:3*7&1,&2*8 >(*3&*1*&)89-*+47(*.98 -.8+7.*3)(-.11*8941*9-.2 !9.11:38&9.8+.*)+47 )&>8 7&308.3(1:)*>4:3,(-.11*8 '4774<-.8&7 (-.11*8)7&,8 )*89.3*)94).*&9"74> 24:7(-.11*8 9-*(4758* &,7**8&3) 9 :1.89-*.7)*5&79:7*.8 4+*(947 )*1&>*)'>&(4397&7><.3) &97401481*&)8 &74:3) 31>9-*8&(7.+.(*9479*2.8 9-*>72.)438 &97401488 4+ 5-.,*3*.&9-*>4:3,*89 (-.11*8974458 +:3*7&124:3) 4+ ,&2*23438)&:,-9*78 .394'&991*"-* :39.19-*,4)8 &114<89-*+1**994)*5&79 9.)*.89:73*)':9 &7*+47(*)94 &9740148.80.11*) .39*7;*3*4;*7 .39-*+.,-9.3,'> King Priam begging Achilles -.8(&114:8 for the body of his son FIGHTING AT TROY *(9478434+ '*-&;.4:7 .3,7.&24+ "-* 1.&)45*38<.9-9-* "74><-42.89&0*8-.2+47 7**0&72>4:98.)*"74> (-.11*8.11*)<.9-7*2478*&9 PRIAM VISITS ACHILLES 2&.39&.3.3,&8.*,*9-&9-&8 9-*3*<84+-.8+7.*3)8)*&9- &17*&)>'**3.3574,7*88+47 (-.11*87*9:73894'&991*+.3)8 39-*.3897:(9.4384+ *(947&3)0.118-.2 3.3*>*&78".7*)4++.,-9 %*:87.&28*984+++479-* .37*;*3,* .3,>*989.11 7**0(&25-41).3,& 7&3842+479-*'4)>4+-.8 )*&)843$.9-9-*-*154+ 9-*,4)*72*8-*7*&(-*8 (-.11*89*39:3)*9*(9*) 39*7.3,-*51*&)8<.9- (-.11*8949-.304+-.84<3 +&9-*7&3)948-4<2*7(> (-.11*87*1*398&3)&114<8 *(94794'*9&0*3'&(094 "74>+47&+:3*7&1&3)':7.&1 19-4:,-9-*7**0-*74*8 <*7*,7*&9*79-&32479&18 9-*><*7*54797&>*)&8 +&11.'1*'*.3,8<.9--:2&3 *249.438<-4-&)94+&(* Greeks and Trojans, in bronze armour, locked in combat :3.;*78&1247&1).1*22&8

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ACHILLES KILLS THE AMAZON QUEEN *39-*8.1*.&<&89-*:**3 4+9-*2&?438&97.'*4+ <&71.0*<42*37*5:9*)94 (:94++9-*.77.,-9'7*&89894 2&0*.9*&8.*794<.*1)9-*.7 <*&5438 "-*>(42*949-* 8:554794+9-*"74/&3839-* '&991* (-.11*8+.3)8-.28*1+ +&(*94+&(*<.9-*39-*8.1*.& &3))*&18-*7&+&9&1'14< 3*;*78.434+9-*8947>-&8 .99-&9&89-*.7*>*82**9&9 9-*242*394+-*7)*&9- 9-*>+&11.314;*"-* 7**0 .)*&4+14;*&3))*&9- <4:1)'**=5147*) >*&781&9*7'>9-*58> (-414,.898:3,&3)7*:)

An early image of the Horse of Troy, from a 7th-century BC clay vase

43;*3,*&3(*+479-*)*&9- 4+-*7)&:,-9*75-.,*3*.& 1>9*23*897&7*(*.;*8-*7 -:8'&3)<.9-&97.:25-&1 <*1(42*&3)9-*3'7:9&11> 2:7)*78-.2<.9-9-*-*15 4+ .,.89-48 ,&2*23438 +&9*<&8&7*8:194+&(:78* 1&.)43-.8+&9-*797*:8 DEATH OF AGAMEMNON <-.(-<&8+.3&11>*=5.&9*) '>9-*2:7)*74+'49- 1>9*23*897&9-*<.+*4+ 1>9*23*897&&3).,.89-48 '>-*78437*89*8&3) ,&2*2343-&)7:1*) >(*3&*.39-*9*3>*&789-&9 )&:,-9*7 1*097& 39-*8* -*-&)'**3&<&>+.,-9.3,.3 2>9-89-*<.114+9-*,4)8 "74>!-*<&8&((425&3.*) '49-8-&5*8&3)4;*77.)*8 '> .,.89-48-*714;*739*39 9-&94+-*74*8&3)2479&18 9-*"74/&38:7;.;478.8*3*&8 <-4*8(&5*8949&1>&3) +4:3)89-*7&(*4+ 42&38 & 8*(43) "74>"-*3*=95&79 4+9-*8947>9-* 9*118 4+9-*-*74*8&);*39:7*843 9-*.7<&>-42*

Achilles killing the Amazon Queen Penthesileia in battle

THE WOODEN HORSE OF TROY 8<&8+47*941)(-.11*8 .80.11*)&9"74>'> &3&774<.3-.8-**1+742 &7.88'4<$.9-9-.8<*&0*3 .3,4+9-*.72.1.9&7>897*3,9- 9-* 7**087*847994,:.1* *+47*8&.1.3,&<&>9-*> ':.1)&,7*&9<44)*3-478* .3<-.(-9-*>(43(*&1842* 4+9-*.7'*89+.,-9*78"-* 7:24:7.85:94:99-&99-.8.8 &,.+9949-*,4))*889-*3& &3)9-&9.+9-*-478**39*78 "74>9-*(.9>(&33*;*7'* 9&0*3 +9*7842*)4:'98 ':98<&>*)'>8:5*73&9:7&1 42*389-*"74/&38)7&,9-* -478*.38.)*9-*<&118"-&9 3.,-99-*7**088&.1'&(0 9-*841).*78(7**54:94+9-* -478*&3)"74>.85:9949-* 947(-7.&2<.9-2&3> 49-*78.82:7)*7*)243,

GREEK MYTHS IN WESTERN ART 7429-* *3&.88&3(*43 <&7)89-*7**02>9-8-&;* '**3&54<*7+:1.385.7&9.43 +47&79.898&3)8(:159478 .3,8&3)6:**38-&;*-&) 9-*28*1;*854797&>*)&8,4)8 &3),4))*88*8<.9-9-*.7 8>2'41.(&997.':9*84+14;* 47<&7>9-8-&;*&184'**3 &3.385.7&9.43+47&79.89894 5&.399-*3:)*471&88.(&11> )7&5*)+.,:7*"-.8<&897:* 4+9-* 9-(*39:7>&79.8947) *.,-943<-48*)*5.(9.434+ 9-*-:2&3'4)>7*+1*(989-* 1&88.(&1.)*&184+'*&:9> .897&,.(+.,:7*4+1*097& .88-4<3-*7* Elektra mourning the death of her father Agamemnon at his tomb

# !

#.+2/:+8':;8+5,8++)+(+-'4=/:. 254-+6/)65+39'))5;4:95,='8'4* '*<+4:;8+=./).+9:'(2/9.+*:.+ 8+2':/549./65,:.+'4)/+4:8++19:5:.+/8 -5*9 #.+:8'-+*?'4*)53+*?./9:58? '4*6./25956./)'2*/'25-;+95,:.+ :. Playwrights '4* :.)+4:;8/+9(+)'3+:.+('9/9 Aristophanes and Sophocles 5,&+9:+842/:+8'8?);2:;8+;).5,5;8 145=2+*-+5,:.+8++1=582*/9 *+8/<+*,8538++12/:+8':;8+ ';9'4/'99 =8/::+4/4:.+!53'46+8/5*'4*;9+*(? !53'4:5;8/9:9/9'1+?:5:.+6.?9/)'28+3'/49 45:./4-8+2/'(2+/9145=4 +9/5*=.59+359:,'35;9 65+39/4)2;*+:.+ './9:58?5,:.+-5*9'4* :.+ 54.5= :52/<+'4.54+9:2/,+'295 2/<+*'85;4*$42/1+ 53+8+9/5*/9:.5;-.: :5.'<+=8/::+4*5=4./9 65+39'2:.5;-.:.+8+/945 ,/83+
5,:.+2/,+5,'<+8?)53 6+:/:/<++2/:+"/4)+ =+8+'4'2359:+>)2;9/<+2? 3'2+*53'/4:.+8+/9' 9:854-+2+3+4:5,3/95-?4? /43;).5,:./965+:8?4 )54:8'9::.+,8'-3+4:95, 65+39*/9)5<+8+*(?:.+ 65+:"'66.5=.52/<+*54 :.+/92'4*5,D9<59'8+ +>)+6:/54'2,589.5=/4-' =53'4)536+:/4-/4' 2/:+8'8?'8+'/4:.+3'2+ *53/4':+*95)/+:?5,'4)/+4: 8++)+'4*,58*+9)8/(/4- =/:.-8+':/4:+49/:?.+8 6'99/549,585:.+8=53+4 HISTORY

$4:/2:.+ :.)+4:;8? 2/::2+ 8++12/:+8':;8+='9 )53659+*/46859+B+<+4 +'82?6./25956.?='9/4 <+89+ 4:.+2'::+86'8:5,:.+

:.)+4:;8?'4+=:8'*/:/54 5,2+4-:.?6859+./9:58/+9 2551/4-':8+)+4:58);88+4: PASSIONATE POETRY +<+4:9='9+9:'(2/9.+*=/:. +85*5:;99'))5;4:5,:.+ 5868/<':+5))'9/549'4* -8+':='8(+:=++48++)+ 6'8:/);2'82?:5+4:+8:'/4 '4* +89/' B +85*5:;96;::.+)2'9. -;+9:9'::.+);2:/<':+* (+:=++48++19'4* +89/'49 *8/41/4-6'8:/+9145=4'9 /4:5')54:+>:'4*/4)2;*+* Hesiod with the nine Muses who 9.58:+865+:/) inspired his poetry '4+:.45-8'6./) ,5839=+8+*+<+256+* '))5;4:5,:.+<'9: #.+9+65+39=+8+5,:+4 ,;225,6'99/54=.+:.+8 +89/'4 36/8+ +'::+36:+*:5 EPIC POETRY 25<+58.':8+*'4*)5;2* 8+)58*5(0+):/<+2? (+6+8954'2585,:+4 9,'8(')1'9:.+ 4* ./-.2?652/:/)'2;).5, =.':6+562+9'/* 3/22+44/;3(+,58+ :./965+:8?(?=8/:+89 '(5;::.+6'9: +<+4:.+(;/2*/4-5,:.+ 9;).'98)./25).;9 #.;)?*/*+9:551 ?)+4'+'46'2')+965+:9 '4'885=+8'4* /4./9'))5;4: Herodotus, the historian 5,:.+254-?+'89 :.+ 8++1.+85+9'4*-5*9 "'66.59;8
! & ! # ! "

The orator Demosthenes in a Staffordshire figurine of 1790

ORATORY ;(2/)'8-;3+4:='9('9/):5 8++1652/:/)'22/,++<+4/4 :.+ 8).'/)6+8/5*4:.+ 2':+86'8:5,:.+ :.)+4:;8? :.+:+).4/7;+95, 6+89;'9/<+96++).(+-'4:5 (+9:;*/+*/4:.+/85=48/-.: 853:.'::/3+54953+ 58':589(+-'4:56;(2/9. :.+/896++).+946'8:/);2'8

"

:./9/4)2;*+*:.59+=/9./4- :5'*<+8:/9+:.+/891/229/4 )53659/4-96++).+9,58:.+ 2'=)5;8:99;).'9?9/'9 '4*+359:.+4+9#.+:+>:9 :.':9;8
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62'?=8/-.:9*+<+256+*'4 /4:+8+9:/4/4*/
&./2+ :.)+4:;8? )53+*?/9,;225,*/8+): 8+,+8+4)+9:5)54:+3658'8? 2/,+'4**/8:?051+9:.+ A4+=C)53+*?*+<+256+* /4:.+ :.)+4:;8?/9 +99+4:/'22?9/:;':/54)53+*? +3625?/4-).'8'):+8:?6+9

DRAMA 2359:'22:.+9;8
GREEK PHILOSOPHERS #.+:.+4/'4"5)8':+9='98+)5-4/@+*/4 :.+2':+ :.)+4:;8?'9'358'2'8(/:+8 +=85:+45:./4-./39+2,(;:=+145=5, ./9'3/4/4-:.+ )54)+6:95,0;9:/)+
Vase painting of two costumed actors from around 370 BC

/96;6/28/9:5:2+,5;4*+*:.+?)+;3:5 :+').9;(0+):9,853(/525-?:5+:./)9'4* .+26+*:5:;84:.+49/4:554+5,:.+,/89: ;4/<+89/:?)/:/+94 B !'6.'+26'/4:+* :./9
'-+4/;9,589)/+4:/,/)5(9+8<':/54 Euclid2'/* :.+8;2+95, -+53+:8? /4'85;4*

Plato9'=A:.+

9+':5,/*+'9C /4.+'<+4

Epicurus

'*<5)':+* :.+6;89;/: 5,62+'9;8+

Socrates:';-.:(?*+(':/4-./9/*+'9

Diogenes:.+?4/)2/<+*2/1+'(+--'8

%-0,%26%1%3(%-/23)-0/13!.304",)# "4),$).'2).!.#)%.31%%#%,!1'%,8"%#!42% 1%,)')/.6!2!#%.31!,0!13/&%5%18$!8,)&% &3%.0,!#%$).01/-).%.30/2)3)/.23%-0,%2 6%1%!,2/23!3%-%.32!"/430/,)3)#!,!.$$)5).% 0/6%1(%%!1,)%233%-0,%2).3(%3(#%.3418 6%1%"4),3/&6//$!.$24.$1)%$"1)#+2 !.8/&3(%)1&%!341%26%1%#/0)%$).-!1",% Pheidias, sculptor of the Parthenon, at work "4),$).'2&1/-3(% 3(#%.3418/.6!1$2 The cella/1)..%12!.#34-

TEMPLE CONSTRUCTION ()2$1!6).')2/&!. )$%!,)9%$/1)#3%-0,% 2(/6).'(/6)3 6!2"4),3!.$ 42%$

(/42%$3(%#4,323!34%

The cult statue6!2/&3(%'/$/1 '/$$%223/6(/-3(%3%-0,% 6!2$%$)#!3%$

The pediment31)!.'4,!1).

2(!0%/&3%.(%,$2#4,0341%

Fluting on the columns6!2#!15%$!%

)!*+'4)$%$"83(!3/.3(% 3/0!.$"/33/-$14-2

A ramp

,%$403/3(% 3%-0,%%.31!.#%

The column drums6%1%).)3)!,,8

The stepped platform6!2

#!15%$6)3("/22%2&/1,)&3).' 3(%-).3/0,!#%

"4),3/.!23/.%&/4.$!3)/.

TIMELINE OF TEMPLE CONSTRUCTION 477–3903(%.)!.%-0,%/& 0/,,/%,/2)'' / 522%-0,%/& %1!<-/2 /.)# )'

700 BC

600 BC

447–405%-0,%2/&3(% #1/0/,)23(%.2 3(%.! )+%/.)#!13(%./. /1)#1%#(3(%)/. /.)#)'' / *!#&* (* %&%'!$%*

400 BC

500 BC

Late 4th century BC 4th century BC 490%-0,%/&0(!)!=').!

/1)# )''/

%-0,%/&).$)!. 3(%.!=.$/2 #1/0/,)2(/$%2 /1)# 2'' /

!.#34!18/&3(% 1%!3/$2 !-/3(1<+)/1)# 2'' /

300 BC

The gable ends of the roof

6%1%241-/4.3%$"8 23!34%2+./6.!2 "(&*(!).3()2#!2%/&! )+%/1: ).'%$)#3/18; ,-/23./400%10/13)/.2 /&1%%+3%-0,%22415)5% The roof6!2

2400/13%$/. 6//$%."%!-2 !.$#/5%1%$). 1/62/&3%11!#/33! 3),%2%!#(%.$).' ).!.401)'(3 !.3%&)7

THE DEVELOPMENT OF TEMPLE ARCHITECTURE 1%%+3%-0,%!1#()3%#341%)2$)5)$%$).3/3(1%%238,%26()#(%5/,5%$ #(1/./,/')#!,,8!.$!1%-/23%!2),8$)23).'4)2(%$"83(%#/,4-.#!0)3!,2 Doric*$'#)-()+((&+%.)*+(. &#+$%)-!* '#!%'!*#)%%&)) )* (#!)*)*.#&)*&%+!#!%)* . (##-&&%'(&*&*.') Triangular pediment filled with sculpture

Guttae)-)3!3%$3(%0%'2 &/1&!23%.).'3(%6//$%. 1//&"%!-2 Triglyphs

1%2%-",%$ 3(%%.$2 //22 "%!-2 Metopes

#/4,$ #/.3!). 2#4,0341%

Ionic*$'#)!((&$&(!!%* !( *%%.*& ,$&(&#+$%)& !(%*&($ '!*# )'!(& ,&#+*)#!"($) &(%)(&%*%"

Doric capital

Akroteria!33(%1//& #/1.%12#/4,$,//+ %12)!.).238,%

The Ionic architrave The frieze6!2! #/.3).4/42"!.$/& $%#/1!3)/.

6!224"$)5)$%$).3/ 01/*%#3).'"!.$2 The Ionic frieze

Stone blocks6%1%

2-//3(,8&)33%$3/'%3(%1 !.$(%,$"8-%3!, #,!-02!.$$/6%,2 ./ -/13!16!242%$).3(% 3%-0,%2#/.2314#3)/. The ground plan6!2 $%1)5%$&1/-3(%-%'!1/. /&3(%8#%.!%!.(/42% !1%#3!.'4,!1(!,,6)3(! &1/.30/1#(2400/13%$"8 #/,4-.2

Caryatids &(!+()& -&$%-( +)!%)*& &#+$%)!% * ( * !&%* * %)(& '&#!)% * %)&( 2%%0 *(!*&%) # !) # +$% (*+() -(+)

3//+3(% 0,!#%/& /1)# *(!#.' ) !.$ $*&') Ionic capital

Corinthian*$'#)!%(-(+!#*+%( * &$%)%&%#.!%* %) .*+( &#+$%)-!* )#%() *)%#&(* '!*#)&(*-!* %* +)#,)

The pediment

6!2$%#/1!3%$ 6)3(!5!1)%38/& -/4,$).'2

Akroterion in the shape of a griffin The cella entrance6!2!3

3(%%!23%.$

The entablature

6!2%5%183().' !"/5%3(%#!0)3!,2

Acanthus leaf capital

%"%&/0+.5+#.""'2/",&*0&*$ +*0&*1"!3&0%+10."'#.+) 0+"(("*&/0& 0&)"/%")&* "*0."+# ,.+!1 0&+*3/0%"*/3%& %3//+ /1 "//#1(0%050%"".(5 0% "*01.5 &03//"*!&*$&0/%&$%-1(&05( ' *!."!#&$1."3."/0+"2".5,.0+#0%" Donkey .""'3+.(!%"0%"*&*,+00"./-1.0". cup +#".)"&'8/&*0%"3"/0+#0%" &05 */0&(( "2&/&0"!0+!5"10(3+.'/+#.0&*0%"&.+3* .&$%00%",&*0"!2/"/."0%" (+/"/03" *$"00+ 0%"2*&/%"!3((,&*0&*$/3&0%3%& %* &"*0.""'/ !" +.0"!0%"&.%+1/"/(0%+1$% 2/"/ +1(!."'!1.&*$"2".5!5 1/"#+.3%& %0%"53"."&*0"*!"! %1$"*1)"./0&((/1.2&2"&*0 0+. &*."//")("!,&" "/

This 6th-century BC blackfigure vase+ '/+(',+!&

-+!&&.*11+!,-,!'& .++(!,*%5!.&& ,/+, /'%&+,+#,'!$$ , %/!, /,**'%+(*!&+ '*(-$!'-&,!&+

The naked woman%+(!&*$#1$!0

&/,.+(5#(10"$&.(+.,.+/0&010" The white-ground lekythos/+

.$'(!&, , &,-*1 +&'!$$+#'**.'*!&+ 1/*-+-$$1'*, /!, -&*$+&+&, !+ '&1, !$$+!&,* + '/+/'%&($!& $'/*+,*.

THE SYMPOSION %"/"",&/+!"/+#)+/0(5 )("#"/0&*$*!!.&*' &*$3"."(/++ /&+*/#+. ,(5&*$0%"$)"+# #',,'+*0%""40".&+. +#0%&/0% "*01.5 #1$!0."!",& 0&+*/+#)"* %+(!&*$ 1,/."!50+#(& ' +100%"!."$/00.$"0 THE DEVELOPMENT OF PAINTING STYLES body of the dead /",&*0&*$." %"!&0/,"'&* The man&/ ..&"!+* 0%*!0% "*01.5 0%"*/ &".5)+1.*"./ *0%",+00"./3+.'/%+,#&."! 2/"3+1(!",//"!0+,&*0". 0+"!" +.0"!. %"+(+$&/0/ %2"""*("0+&!"*02%" 2.5&*$/05("/+#)*5&*!&2&!1( ,&*0"./+#+0%( '#&$1."*! ."!#&$1."3." Geometric style *,*!2+, *$!+,*#.++*'%*'-& ,'

!&/ ! , '*,!'&!+!& &+'!-*+&'%,*!(,,*&+ !+ , &,-*1.+($'&*.+ %*#*!+'.* % , ! &(!,+ , !*&-&*$*!,+'%&

The geometric design&/,.+0+

05,"+#0%"(0". 6.""''"57 ,00".*

Chariots and warriors#+.)0%"

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THE GREEK ISLANDS AREA BY AREA

THE GREEK ISLANDS AT A GLANCE 6667 THE IONIAN ISLANDS 6891 THE ARGOSARONIC ISLANDS 92103 THE SPORADES AND EVVOIA 104123 THE NORTHEAST AEGEAN ISLANDS 124157 THE DODECANESE 158203 THE CYCLADES 204243 CRETE 244281 A SHORT STAY IN ATHENS 282295

!

)& 1&&+*2,".%21".(&*.2*9&'1/-3*.84.*. )"#*3&%1/$+23/3)&24#23".3*",*2,".%2/'1&3&".% 55/*"5&13)&$&.341*&23)&2&")"2#1/4()3 2&33,&12".%*.5"%&12".%01/5*%&%3)&*.)"#*3".32 6*3)3)&*16"8/',*'&*3./6"331"$32-*,,*/.2/' 5*2*3/12"$)*2,".%)"2%&5&,/0&%*32/6.$)"1"$3&1 3)1/4()"-*7/',".%2$"0&$,*-"3&".%$4,341", )&1*3"(&26&,,"23)&2$"33&1&%)*23/1*$",2*3&23)&1& *2&./4()1&-/3&14((&%3&11"*.3/2"3*2'83)&-/23 %*2$&1.*.(6",+&1".% /'$/412&3)&5"1*&38/' #&"$)&2*2&731"/1%*."18 Corfu

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KEY The Ionian Islands pp68–91 The Argo-Saronic Islands pp92–103 The Sporades and Evvoia pp104–23 The Northeast Aegean Islands pp124–157 Athens

The Dodecanese pp158–203

The Cyclades pp204–43 Crete pp244–81

Aígina

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Watching from the shade as a ship comes into Sámi town, Kefalloniá

The islet of Vlachérna with its small convent, reached by a short causeway from Corfu island

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11 < 11 <

Looking down on Plateía Dimarcheíou in Corfu town with the Town Hall on the left

KEY Motorway Main road Minor road Scenic route High-season, direct ferry route Summit

0 kilometres

A typical house by the roadside in Stavrós village on Ithaca

For additional map symbols see back flap

0 miles

25 25

LOCATOR MAP

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

1ÈSHB The mountain landscape of Lefkáda

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Afiónas

Ano Korakiána

Skriperó

Lákones

Palaiokastrítsa Liapádes

Angelókastro

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Glyfáda

# %&/('"&/%2"* #+.3&(!(&#"*!&//", .0"!#.+)0%"+*&* "+*(55/+)" "10(" %"/

KEY For key to map see back flap

# %."")&* +2"/ (1/0"..+1*!0%& '(53++!"!%"! (*!0(&+'/0.:0/0&/*+3+*"+#0%")+/0,+,1(. /,+0/+*0%"&/(*!*!&/*&!"(/"#+.#)&(&"/3&0% 30"./,+.0/2&(("*!#.&"*!(50)+/,%"." For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–4 and pp330–31

0 kilometres

5

0 miles

3

STAR SIGHTS

Corfu Town

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 100,000. 3 km (2 miles) S of Corfu town. Xenofóntos Stratigoú, Corfu town. Corfu town (26610 37637/8, [email protected]). Cultural festival at Ano Korakiána: 1–15 Aug; festival at Benítses: 17 July

Kassiópi

" %&/&/0%"%&$%"/0 ,+&*0+*+.#1*! +##"./"4 "(("*02&"3/ +2".0%"&/(*!*! +* (".!5/ #./0(5

Avláki

Kouloúra

Perítheia

Petália

Mount Kalámi Pantokrátor

Spartýlas

Nisáki

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Pyrgí

Ypsos

Dasiá

Gouviá PTICHIA

CORFU TOWN

Kanóni Vlachérna

Igoumenítsa, Paxos, Pátra

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Potamós

Pontikonísi

Achílleion Palace

Benítses

Strongylí Agios Mattháios

Moraïtika

Mesongí

Chlomós Korisíon Lagoon

Alykés

Argyrádes

Igoumenítsa

Gardíki Castle9%5

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Lefkímmi

Perivóli

Dragótina

Kávos

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STAR SIGHTS

Palace of St Michael and St George

The Liston Agios Spyrídon Town Hall (see p76)

The Paper Money Museum

*#4#%0--'%5+0/0( 3'',/05'4#/&5'--4 03(64*+4503:5*306)* +54%*#/)'40(%633'/%: *'3'+4#-40#&+41-#: 0/.0&'3/$#/,/05' 130&6%5+0/*(

Archaeological Museum (see pp78–9)

)'%$)0'+ !* ,) !*+ +$$*+'&'),+.*,!$+!& &!++'+ !*$&* (+)'&*!&+. '**)'( ,*!*",*+ +'+ )! +'+ $+) 4''1 For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–4 and pp330–31

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST The Corfu Reading Society

Byzantine museum (see p77)

+4*064'&+/5*+4$6+-&+/)*' 40%+'5:8#4(06/&'&+/

#/&8#4.0&'--'&0/5*' '#&+/) 0%+'5:0('/'7# 5 +45*'0-&'45%6-563#-+/45+565+0/ +/.0&'3/3''%'

30,000. 2 km (1 mile) SW. Xenofóntos Stratigoú. Avramíou (around Corfu town), Plateía Theotóki (suburbs of Corfu town & nearby towns). 26610 37637/8. daily: New Fortress. Mon Repos 1.5 km (1 mile) S, Myrtiótissa 10 km (6 miles) W, Ypsos 11 km (7 miles) NW.

KEY Suggested route

0 metres 0 yards

250 250

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Old Fortress (see p78)

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762-<>66.;=1.7*;;8@<=;..=<8/8;/><85-=8@7 6*B+.9*,4.-@2=1?2<2=8;<+>==1.;.*;.*5@*B<:>2.= 95*,.<=8+./8>7--8@7*55.B@*B<*7-<1*-B,8++5.- <:>*;.<%1.8;/28=18><.@2?.<<=;270@*<1270*,;8<<=1. <=;..= %1.8=J42=1.<8>=1.;7+8>7-*;B8/ =1.85-=8@7=1.;.*;.<.?.;*5 .5.0*7=*;,*-.-<.,=287<>25=+B =1.;.7,1=1.B*;.78@186.=8 <8>?.72;<189<,1*9.5<*7-,1>;,1.< "*;=<8/=1.<>;;8>7-2707.@=8@7*;. :>2=.68-.;7+>=6*7B8/=1.+>25-270< Corfu town by horse and trap -*=.+*,4=8;.7,1*7-;2=2<1;>5. @1.71.2<<*2-=81*?. 1.59.--;2?.=1.%>;4005.- =8@.;8/028<$9B;I-870>2-.< /;8687<=*7=27895.3><= =1.?2<2=8;=8=12<,1>;,1=1. +./8;.=1.%>;42<18,,>9*=287 1852.<=95*,.87=1.2<5*7- 8/ =@*<875B+B,1*7,. =1*=2=,*6.=88;/>@1.;. 7<2-.27*<25?.;,*<4.=2< =1.6>662/2.-+8-B8/=1. =1.9;.<.7=,1>;,1@*<+>25= ;.?.;.-<*27=*/=.;@186 27 =818><.12<,8//27 6*7B8;/28=6.7*;.7*6.- %1.,1>;,12<*5<8@8;=1 <..270/8;=1.266.7<. $9B;I-87126<.5/@*<78= /;868;/>+>=/;86B9;>< *68>7=8/<25?.;@*;.+;8>01= @1.;.1.@*<;*2<.-*<*<1.9 +B=1.,87<=*7=<=;.*68/ 1.;- *=.;1..7=.;.-=1. 9250;26<!7/8>;8,,*<287< ,1>;,1*7-;8<.=8=1.;*74 .*,1B.*;"*56$>7-*B 8/+2<189.2<+.52.?.-=8 *<=.;$*=>;-*B >0><=*7- 1*?.9.;/8;6.-6*7B62;*,5.< =1./2;<=$>7-*B27 8?.6+.; +./8;.12<-.*=127 =1.<*27=<;.6*27<*;.,*;;2.- *7-8=1.;<<27,.E78=5.*<=27 *58/==1;8>01=1.<=;..=< Agios Spyrídon Agíou Spyrídonos. Tel 26610 33059. daily.

Agios Spyrídon, seen down one of the many small shopping alleyways For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–4 and pp330–31

Esplanade

%12<62A=>;.8/9*;4*7- =8@7<:>*;.2<87.8/=1. ;.*<87<8;/>=8@7;.6*27< <>,1*7*==;*,=2?.95*,. 78@7*<=1.<95*7*-.8; $92*7G-*2=8//.;<;.52.//;86 =1.9*,4.-<=;..=<27<>66.; .2=1.;87*9*;4+.7,18;27 87.8/=1..5.0*7=,*/H<527270 =1.<:>*;.87The Liston 8?.;5884270=1.,;2,4.=92=,1 %1. 2<=87@*<-.<207.-+B *;.7,16*7*=12.>-. .<<.9<@18+>25=2=27 %1.7*6.2<=87,86.[email protected]=89;86.7*-.1.;. %1.;.*;.*7>6+.;8/ 687>6.7=<27*7-*;8>7- =1. <95*7*-. .*;=1. /8>7=*272<=1.Enosis Monument=1.@8;- 6.*7<>72/2,*=287*7-=12< ,.5.+;*=.<=1. >72878/ =1. 872*7 <5*7-<@2=1=1. ;.<=8/;..,.@1.7;2=2<1 ;>5.,*6.=8*7.7-%1. 6*;+5.687>6.7=1*< ,*;?270<8/=1..8/Ioánnis Kapodístrias68-.;7 ;..,.<=*7-< *==1..7-8/=1.<=;..==1*= /5*74<=1.<95*7*-.*7-+.*;<

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Byzantine Museum Prosfórou 30 & Arseníou. Tel 26610 38313. 8:30am–2:30pm Tue–Sun. main public hols.

A game of cricket on the pitch by the Esplanade

12<7*6..@*<*<<*<<27*=.- 27 G/952827=1.".589877.<. 27 +B=@8;.=*7<@18<. >7,5.1.1*-269;2<87.- *,270=12<2<=1.Maitland Rotunda *6.68;2*5 =8 $2;%186*<*2=5*7-@18 +.,*6.;2=*27 */=.;=1.2<5*7-+.,*6.* ;2=2<1";8=.,=8;*=.27 =18>017.2=1.;1.78;12< 9852,2.<@.;.6>,1524.- Palace of St Michael and

St George Plateía Spianáda. Tel 26610 30443. Tue–Sun. main public hols.

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%1.BC*7=27.><.>6 89.7.-27 *7-2<18><.- 27=1.;.78?*=.-,1>;,18/ "*7*0I*7=2?8>72J=2<<*@12,1 9;8?2-.-<86.8/=1..A12+2=< %1.6><.>6,87=*27<*+8>= 2,87<-*=270+*,4=8=1. =1 ,.7=>;B=*5<81*<@8;4+B *;=2<=*<2=@*<* ,87?.72.7=<=8992708//9827= 87=1.38>;7.B[email protected];.=. *7-'.72,./;86=1. =1=8 =1. =1,.7=>;2.<->;270=1. 9.;28-8/'.7.=2*7;>5.

8//.;.-125-;.=2;.*7-+.,86.,>;*=8; Paper Money Museum Ionikí Trápeza, Plateía Iróon 8/=1.6><.>6&7/8;=>7*=.5B 1.-2.-+./8;.1.,8>5- Kypriakoú Agóna. Tel 26610 ;.*52C.12<*6+2=287%1. 41552. Tue, Thu. main .A12+2=<27,5>-.<=*=>.< public hols. <,;..7<*;68>;<254 %12<,8695.=.,855., *7-,.;*62,7=;2.< =1.2<5*7-< 7/;87=8/=1. ,>;;.7,B1*<*5=.;.- +>25-2702<* *<8;/><<8,2.=B <=*=>.8/Sir *7-;>5.;<,1*70.- Frederick Adam %1./2;<=+*7478=. =1. ;2=2<1 201 87=1.2<5*7-@*< 8662<<287.;=8 2<<>.-27;2=2<1 8;/>/;86 E 98>7-<@125.5*=.; .+>25==1.87 78=.<<18@=1. #.98<'255*

.;6*7*7-=*52*7 =8=1.<8>=18/=8@7 ,>;;.7,B8/=1.@*; Statue of Sir *7-@*<*5<8;.<987 Frederick Adam B.*;< 78=1.;27=;2 0>270-2<95*B<18@< <2+5./8;989>5*;2C270 =1.@.<=,8*<=;.<8;=8/"*5*28 =1.9;8,.<<8/9;8->,270* 4*<=;I=<*

87.8/12< 78=./;86=1.*;=2<=2,-.<207 /*?8>;2=.<98=<87=1.2<5*7- =8.70;*?270*7-9;27=270

Maitland Rotunda situated in the Esplanade

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The Old Fortress towering above the sea on the eastern side of Corfu town

Old Fortress Tel 26610 48310. Apr–Oct: 8am– 7pm daily. main public hols. except Sun. limited.

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New Fortress Plateía Solomoú. Tel 26610 27370. Apr–Oct: daily.

%1.'.7.=2*7<+.0*7+>25-270 =1. .@8;=;.<<8; D8 ;8G;2827 =8/>;=1.; <=;.70=1.7=1.=8@7<-./.7,.< =@*<78=,8695.=.->7=25 B.*;<*/=.;=1.!5- 8;=;.<<1.7,.=1.2;;.<9.,=2?. 7*6.< %1./8;=;.<<2<><.-+B =1. ;..47*?B*<*=;*27270 +*<.@125.=1.<>;;8>7-270 68*=2<=1.<.==270/8;=1. =8@7<6*;4.=

-.-2,*=.-=8$= %1.8-8;** /8;6.;BC*7=27..69;.<< @18<.;.6*27<@.;.+;8>01= =88;/>*==1.<*6.=26.*< =18<.8/$=$9B;E-87.;+8-B 2<27*<25?.;,8//277.*;=1.*5=*; Plateía Dimarcheíou Town Hall Tel 26610 40402. daily. main public hols. Agios Iákovos daily.

(2=127=12<.5.0*7=<:>*;. <=*7-<=1.Town Hall =2< *0;*7-'.7.=2*7+>25-270 @12,1+.0*752/.27 *< *<2705.<=8;.B8; Mitrópoli 6..=27095*,./8;=1.78+252=B Mitropóleos. Tel 26610 39409. =@*<=1.7,87?.;=.-27=8 daily. =1. $*7 2*,868 %1.*=;.27 %1. ;..4!;=18-8A,1>;,1 @12,16*-.2==1./2;<= 8/=1."*7*0E*$9252F=2<<*8; 68-.;7=1.*=;.27;..,. '2;027*;B8/=1.*?.@*< %1. ;2=2<1*--.-=1.<.,87- +>25=27 =+.,*6.8;/>< /588;27 @1.72=+.,*6. ,*=1.-;*527 @1.7=1. =1. %8@7 *55 7*?.@*<.A=.7-.-=2< -3*,.7==82=2<=1.*=1852, ,*=1.-;*5 Agios Iákovos*5<8 478@7+B2=<=*52*77*6.8/ $*7 2*,868 >25=27 *7-,87<.,;*=.-27 2=@*< +*-5B-*6*0.-+B+86+270 27 @2=1875B=1.+.55 =8@.;<>;?2?27027=*,=$.;?2,.< *;.1.5-.?.;B-*B@2=1=1;.. *<<.<87$>7-*B< Archaeological Museum Vraïla 1. Tel 26610 30680. Tue– Sun. main public hols.

The 17th-century Catholic cathedral Agios Iákovos in Plateía Dimarcheíou For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–4 and pp320–31

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3><=8//=1.,8*<='5*,1D;7* @2=12=<=27B@12=.,87?.7=2< */*68><5*7-6*;4*7-,*7 +.;.*,1.-+B*,*><.@*B7 <>66.;+8*=<08=8"87=2 The Gorgon frieze in Corfu town’s Archaeological Museum 487E<28;8><.<5*7-<*2- =8+.!-B<<.><<<129=>;7.- /;2.C.*6*<<2?. 6 /= 5*=.;9*<<.-=8=1.;..4;8B*5 =8<=87.+B"8<.2-87%12< 58702<78=<..7>7=25=1. /*625B %1.;.6*27<8/=1. ,*><.-!-B<<.><=8+.<129 /27*5;886%1.6><.>6*5<8 Temple of Artemis52.7.*;+B @;.,4.-87"1*.*,2*=1. -2<95*B<8=1.;/27-;B;>27<8/Agía Kerkýra 8;/>2786.;< .A,*?*=287<*=87#.98<'255* =1.,1>;,18/=1.85-,2=B Mon Repos Villa 718>;<@*548;*<18;= Tel 26610 20980. April–Oct: Environs +><;2-.<8>=18/8;/>=8@7 Tue–Sun (gardens open daily). *;E=<* *B<@..9<<8>=18/ 2< Kanóni@2=1=1.2<5*7-<8/ 8;/>=8@7@2=1=1.<>+>;+ 8/ 7.6F6258;B,1>;,18/Agion Iásonos kai Sosipátrou<*27=< *<87*7-$8<<29*=.; %1.<. -2<,295.<8/$="*>5+;8>01= 1;2<=2*72=B=88;/>27=1. <= ,.7=>;B 7<2-.*;./*-.- @*559*27=270<27,5>-270*7 =1,.7=>;B/;.<,8 $8>=18/7.6F6258<225=27 +B$2;;.-.;2,4-*6 =1.<.,87-2018662<<287.; 8/=1.872*7<=*=.*<* 9;.<.7=/8;12<@2/.*7-@*< The church of Agion Iásonos kai Sosipátrou

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37 km (23 miles) N of Corfu town. 600. Avláki 2 km (1 mile) S.

);;1G810);,->-478-,16<7 76-7.7:.=;*=;1-;<0741,)A +-6<:-;?1<07=<47;16/-1<0-: 1<;+0):57:+0):)+<-:<1; View looking southwards over the beach at Kalámi Bay ;-<):7=6,)0):*7=:<0)<41-; *-1;1<7:;.:75 0741,)A5)3-:;<0-:-):-67 0741,)A:-;7:<;<0:76/01; 26 km (16 miles) NE of Corfu town. 01/0:1;-07<-4;<7;8714<0- C8-)+-.=4.1;016/>144)/-D 18. to Kassiópi. 51/0< =::-44.)14<7:-+7/61B- ;-<<16/$0-0-):<7.<0-<7?6 )4E51>144)/-0);:-<)16-,1<; <0-84)+-6<0-->-616/;)6, 1;)<1<;0):*7=:?1<0<)>-:6); 7=<;1,-<0-576<0;7.=4A +0):5,-;81<-1<;878=4):1-61:;078;7>-:4773 )6, =/=;<67:5)411;1<7:;0)6,.=47. <)>-:6);416-1<;;)6,)6, )476/;1,-57<7:*7)<;.:75 ;016/4-*-)+0?014-*-016, <0-5)6A?)<-:;87:<;;+0774; <0-5+A8:-;;<:--;)6,741>- 6<0- ;<+-6<=:A<0- /:7>-;+415*=8<7<0-47?-: 58-:7:-:71;;)1,<70)>- >1;1<-,)$-584-7.=81<-: ;478-;7.7=6-: 35 514-)+:7;; ?-;<-:6;1,-7.<0-0):*7=: )4E51 )A 7=617=;)88-)4 pítissa67?;<)6,;$0-:=16; 6)5-5-)6;C<0-451/0144)/-16 7.7:.=<:1;-;;7;<--84A<0)< ;07:
Fishing boats moored in Kassiópi harbour, east of the castle ruins For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–4 and pp330–31

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Caretaker monk at Moní Theotókou, Palaiokastrítsa

31 km (20 miles) NW of Corfu town. 300. Róda 6 km (4 miles) E.

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WRITERS AND ARTISTS IN CORFU $0-87-<176H;17; #7475G;41>-,767:.=.:75 =6<1401;,-)<016 -1;*-;<367?6.7:01;87-5 A56<7:--,758):<7.?01+0?);),78<-,);<0- 6)<176)4)6<0-5).<-:6,-8-6,-6+- <0-:?:1<-:;0)>- )4;7.7=6,16;81:)<176767:.=16+4=,16/<0-:1<1;087-< )6,):<1;<,?):, -):?07>1;1<-,<0-1;4)6,16<0- <0 +-6<=:A)6,<0-=::-44*:7<0-:;?07*7<0?:7<-)*7=< 7:.=-:)4,,-;+:1*-,01;1,A441+ ;+014,077,16 ?014-)?:-6+-8:7,=+-,

16 -?:7<-<01;?014-;<)A16/16 )4E51?0-:-0-?);>1;1<-,*A-6:A144-:?07;- *773 1;76-7.<0-57;<)++=:)<- )6,-6,-):16/*773;)*7=<:--+-

26 km (16 miles) NW of Corfu town. 600.

!)4)173);<:F<;)1;76-7.7:.=; 57;<878=4):;87<;$0:--5)16 +7>-;+4=;<-:):7=6,)?77,-, 0-),4)6,,1>1,16/16<76=5 -:7=;7<0-:*-)+0-;?01+0 ):-878=4):?1<0.)5141-; *-+)=;-;?15516/1;;).- ')<-:;87:<;):-)>)14)*4-);

A view from the Benítses road near Gastoúri, by Edward Lear

& $ % ! % $ * $

/>2/ /==79?8>+389?=,?>792+8>2/89<>2 381>>2/A+>/<=/.1/+C90A+./<==?-2+==+8. =9?>2/<89<0?/8-97:+==/=/8I>=/=A36.8312>630/ :3:/<=+8.+@9-/>=/1=+8. +8.>2/=2CA36.630/90>2/9<3=I98+1998 ?-290 9<0?=:<9.?-/1<9A=38>2/0/<>36/$J:+#6+3889<>290 3,3=69A/<=38-6?./=/+.+009 (H>9=&9>2/=9?>263/= C<>3J>3==+98-/./=-<3,/.+=>2/ .36=+8./<=/C9<-23.= A9<6.=79=>,/+?>30?6,/+-2?==/<@3-/=+>9 63/=679=> 57 736/89<>2 Gardíki Castle,?36>38 /B:692/,/+>/8><+-5C9?A3668//.C9?<9A8-+< >2/ >2-/8>?2>2/9A/<=+8. 9?>/<-+=>6/A+66==>366=>+8.381 &2/=3>/3=+6=9589A809<+ 038.90#+6/963>23-
14 km (9 miles) S of Corfu town. 1,400. Benítses.

/8I>=/=2+=,/-97/>2/ +<-2/>C:+6:+-5+1/2963.+C 0<97A23-2+3=/<)362/67 >=+::/+63=>9C9?81 :/9:6/+8.89>>9>29=/ 90/<7+8C69@/.>9A+>-2 >2/=?8=/>A236/=>+C381+>>2/ =//5381:/+-/+8.;?3/>9<+ 24 km (15 miles) W of Corfu town. /<=:9<>+8. 8>2/2366=3./@366+1/90(H>9= +>>2/2/312>90>2/=/+=98+2/A23>/A+=2/.29?=/=A3>2

/B>630/ 069A/<,/./-5/.,+6-983/=900/< 3=+6=9@/2/,+<=+8. 42 km (26 miles) S of Corfu town. .3=-9=-69=/+,9?>>2/=+7/ +><+.3>398+637+1/9037/+=>2/69-+603=2/<7/8 (H>9=2+=>A9>+@/<8+=+8.+ 2+8.0?690=29:=+8.2+=79=> &2/9<3=I98+19983=+ 57 ?<80<97>2/3<8312>+>=/+ 736/=>-290A+>/<=/:+ &2/=90 6C+38>/.,C>2/ <+>/.0<97>2/=/+,C=97/90 38>/38/8I>=/=9>2/<>2+8 37:+->90>9?<3=7<97>2/ @366+1/+=>//:-637,6/+.=?: >2/79=>,/+?>30?6.?8/=+8. >2/2 29?=/8/+<>2/2+<,9?<=;?+2/79?8>+38=3./>9>2/>9:90 ,/+-2/=989<0?&2/6+5/ 139=/J<139= 7 0>/69A63/=>2/0/<>36/$J:+ #6+38+8.+,/+-2+><798/= View inland over the freshwater Korisíon Lagoon

Environs

&2/169<39?=,/+-2+> Myrtiótissa 57 736/ =9?>290(H>9=3=8+7/.+0>/< >2/ >2-/8>?/./.3-+>/.>9#+8+1I+ C<>3J>3==+"?<+.C90>2/ C<>6/=&2/,/+-23=+6981 196./8=A//:90=+8.,+-5/. A3>2-C:2/+9 C<>3J>3==++=E:/<2+:=>2/ 69@/63/=>,/+-238>2/A9<6.G %9?>290(H>9=63/=Pélekas +89>2/<:3->?2366=3./@366+1/>= ><+.3>398+629?=/=>?7,6/ .9A8A99./.=69:/=>9>2/ =7+66+8.=/-6?./.,/+-2 ,/69A,9@/>23=3=>2/ Kaiser’s Throne>2/2366>9:

A whitewashed house in the attractive village of Vátos

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–4 and pp330–31

" $ '

19 km (12 miles) SW of Corfu town. Tel 26610 56210. Palace & gardens daily.

:9:?6+<.+C><3:0<97+8C 909<0?==3=>9>2/ -2I66/398#+6+-/>A+=,?36> 38 F ,C>2/>+63+8+<-23 >/->$+:2+/6+<3>+09<>2/ 7:290?=><3+ F09<7/<6C63D+,/>2 90+@+<3+%2/?=/.3>+=+ :/<=98+60<97>2/ :<9,6/7==2/A+=/8.?<381+> >2/+:=,?<1-9?<>/<2/+6>2 A+=:99<+8.2/<2?=,+8. 7:/<9<<+8D9=/089>9<3 The outer entrance to the Achílleion’s gardens 9?=6C?80+3>20?60>/<>2/ +==+==38+>39890>2/7:2,C+8>+63+8+8+<-23=> >2/A+66=+2 >2/7+==3@/ 7 0>2312 -969?<0?6,9?1+38@366/++8.+ -+=>3<98031?2/:+6+-/6+C :<90?=39890:+67>C09<8/+<6C+./-+./ )362/67 1+<./8=+>/. ?8>363>A+=,9?12>,C A3>28?7/<9?==>+>?/= +3=/<)362/6738 /=:/-3+66C90-2366/=A29 The Palace &2/-2I66/3983= 0+79?=+=>2/=/>?=/. A+=>2//7:2/-+=38938>2/ +0>/2/:+6+-/ +>>/7:>=>9./=-<3,/>2/ +7/=98.0367 3=8+7/."8/79@381 -2I66/398=+<-23>/->?<+6=>C6/ ,<98D/90>2/ <+813810<97!/96+==3-+6>9 3= &/?>983-+6>29?12+A2//<7+8 ?<2<312> The Gardens =-?6:>9<<8=> +8../-6+E+798=><9?= &2/6?=21/<&2/=>+>?/ ,?36.381G&2//7:29?12>>92+@/ 89>:+<>3-?6+<6C:6/+=/.A3>2 of Elizabeth of Bavaria >2/:+6+-/+9>2/ >2/0383=2/.,?36.381,?>2/< by Franz Xavier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chilles victoriously dragging the body of Hector around the walls of Troy +8.>2/=:/-3+63>C 5?7;?+>63;?/?<

!

Local fishing boats moored at the eastern end of the harbour at Gáïos

Παξο

2,700. Gáïos, Lákka. Gáïos. Gáïos (26620 32222). Mogonísi 3 km (2 miles) SE of Gáïos.

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$0"45"-508/*4#"$,&%#:0-*7& (307&4"/%1*/&$07&3&%)*--4 <,,"*41016-"38*5)%": 53*11&34'30.03'6#65"5 /*()5*53&563/450#&*/("26*&5 '*4)*/(7*--"(&8*5)"'&8 300.4503&/5"/%0/-:"4$"5 5&3*/(0'3&45"63"/54"/%$"'=4 05)&&"45*45)&4."--7*- -"(&0'Pórto Longós8)*$) *45)&.045"553"$5*7&0'5)& *4-"/%44&55-&.&/545)"4" 1&##-&#&"$)")"/%'6-0' )064&4"'&84)014"/% 5"7&3/"48)04&5"#-&445"/%"5 5)&8"5&34&%(&@3500/(@4 *4"1&"$&'6-1-"$&8)&3&5)& "33*7"-0'5)�"5#3*/(*/( '36*5"/%7&(&5"#-&4&7&3:'&8 %":4*4"."+03&7&/5"5)4 '30.5)&7*--"(&-&"%5)306() 0-*7&(307&4504&7&3"-26*&5 $07&4(00%'0348*..*/( Outlying Islands

306/%1&01-&-*7& 0/ Antípaxos4065)0' "9@4"/%.045-:*/ (3"1*%*<"-5)06() 5)&3&"3&"'&8)".-&54*/ Around the Island -"/%)&*4-"/%*46/646"- /&."*/30"%(0&4 */5)"50-*7&53&&4"3& '30.5)&4065)505)& &"4*-:065/6.#&3&%#: /035)0'5)&*4-"/% 7*/&48)*$)130%6$& )&3&"3&'&8$"34"/% /5>1"9044105&/5 "/%(00%26"-*5: 5)&#&458":50(&5 8*/&)&3&*4-*55-& "#065*4#:#*$:$-&03 5063*4."/%/0 .01&%"/: Gaios 1-&"4"/553"$,4-&"% Statue of Pyropolitís on "$$0..0%"5*0/ the waterfront in Gáïos "7"*-"#-&"-5)06()
View overlooking Lákka to the south For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–4 and pp330–31

1)0/0(3"1)4)&4."--Folk Museum)"4-0$"-$0456.&4 "/%0-%1)050(3"1)40'*4-"/% -*'& #07&5)&508/Moní Faneroménis8"4'06/%&%*/ 5)& 5)$&/563:5)06()5)& 13&4&/5#6*-%*/(4%"5&'30.5)& 5)$&/563:54*$0/0'5)& "/"(>"*4"-40 5)$&/563:

Phonograph Museum Konstantínou Kalkáni 10. daily. main public hols.

Folk Museum Theódoro Strátou. Tel 26450 33443. call for opening times. main public hols.

Houses on a hillside near Kalamítsi

Lefkada Town

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Λευκδα

25,000. Nydrí, Vasilikí. Dimitroú Golémi, Lefkáda town. Lefkáda town (26450 29379). Lefkáda town: daily.

&',"%"0''&347"3*&5:'30. .06/5"*/7*--"(&450#&"$) 3&403545)"4)"%"563#6-&/5 )*4503:5:1*$"-0'5)&0/*"/ 4-"/%44*/$&5)&03*/5)*"/4 500,$0/530-0'5)&*4-"/% '30.5)& ,"3/"/*"/4 */ 3*()561 6/5*-5)& 3*5*4)-&'5 5)&*4-"/% */

•

Moní Faneroménis • Agios Nikítas

Meganísi)"43&5"*/&%*54363"- -*'&45:-&045#0"54'30. :%3>4501"5 "5)A5)&."*/ 10358)04&)"3#063)"4 $)"1&-40/&"$)4*%&"/% 4&7&3"-5"7&3/"41)*--5)& 4."--7*--"(&0'"50.=3*)"4 5)&*4-"/%40/-:)05&-

• Kalamítsi

Outlying Islands

Nydrí •

1,157m 3,795ft

SPARTI SKORPIOS

Eláti Stavrotá

• Agios Pétros

Vathý • • Spartochóri

•Vasilikí

MEGANISI Ithaca, Kefalloniá Kefalloniá

KEY For key to map see back flap

0 kilometres

5

0 miles

3

Sailing boats off the white-sand beach at Vasilikí

#

$1'!$7+B%(&$0(7+(&$3,7$/ ,17+( 7+&(1785<(6752<(' %<$1($57+48$.(,1 ,7 :$65(&216758&7('$1''(&/$5(' $75$',7,21$/6(77/(0(17:+,&+ 5(48,5(6$//1(:%8,/',1*672 0$7&+(;,67,1*67
Ιθκη

4,000. Vathý. Vathý (26740 33733). Pólis Bay 20 km (12 miles) NW of Vathý.

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Exogi •

Platreithiás • Lefkáda • Fríkes li i k á t a • • Stavrós Pólis • Kióni Bay

P

Kefalloniá

• Léfki

• Anogí

Astakós

• Agios Ioánnis

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0 kilometres

Around the Island

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Kefalloniá Pátras

•VATHY • Píso Aetós • Perachóri

Archaeological Museum Behind OTE office. Tel 26740 32200. Tue–Sun. main public hols.

0 miles

5 2

Archaeological Museum Stavrós. Tel 26740 23955. variable.

Mon, main public hols.

Kefalloniá

• Taxiárchis

Filiatró •

KEY For key to map see back flap

The red-domed roof of a church in Stavrós

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–4 and pp330–31

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Around The Island

Κεφαλλονι

;;)2-:;14-;6;9)=-3)96<5, -.)33651B;0-3)9/-:;6.;0- 9+0)-636/1+)3.15,:,);--.)33651B:.19:;150)*1;)5;: 651)5 :3)5,: -:71;-;01: ,91=15/1:9->)9,15/>1;0:64- ;6)*6<; 5@+-5)-)5;14-:;0-1:3)5, .36<91:0-,)5,9-4)15-,9--2<5;13;0- 5,+-5;<9@ *-)<;1.<3:76;:;6,1:+6=-9$0- >0-51;>):+)7;<9-,*@;0-"64)5: ;>)::8<)**3-, 1:3)5,:31=-31-:;73)+-:)9- Lássi)5,;0-:6<;0+6):; 6=-9*@4)5@76>-9:*<;.964 ;6 1;:0)9-, ;0- 651)5:01:;69@6.%-5-;1)56++<7);165-.)33651B: 9-:69;:-3:->0-9-;0-9-)9- 8<1-;=133)/-:)5,;0-:+-5-9@ );;9)+;165:9)5/-.964*<:@*-)+09-:69;:;66<5;C56: 1::;<5515/*<::-9=1+- );165)3!)92>01+0:<996<5,:;0-651)5:01/0-:;7-)2 3152: 9/6:;D31>1;046:; 7)9;:6.;0-1:3)5, )71;)36.-.)33651B<5;13 $0-5-)9*@Archaeological Museum15+3<,-:.15,:.964 ;0->01;->):0-,=133)/- ;0- #)5+;<)9@6.!)5*):-,); 6.Kástro:;133.36<91:0-:6<; :1,-;0-@A)5;15-.69;9-::6. ;0--31::B51)=-)2-)5, )51479-::1=-9,+-5;<9@ /16:-D9/16:$0-%-5-;1)5: *965A-0-),6.)4)5.6<5, 9-56=);-,;0-.69;9-::15 *<;1;>):,)4)/-,*@-)9;0 ); #B41964;0->);-9.965; @6<+)5:--;0-Drápanos 8<)2-:15 )5, )5, Bridge*<13;,<915/91;1:0 ;0- -)9;08<)2-.15)33@ 9<3-15 9<15-,1;$0-3)9/-)5,6=-9 /96>515;-91691:)0)=-5.69 Historical and Folk :>)336>;)13*<;;-9.31-: Museum 5 ;0-9->): Ilía Zervoú 12. Tel 26710 28835. )+65=-5;65;0- 9am–2pm Mon–Sat. Dec or Lefkáda A church tower in the countryside :1;-6.Moní Jan for cleaning, main public hols. Agíou Andréa between Argostóli and Kástro Archaeological Museum Fiskárdo $0-691/15)3 Rókkou Vergotí. Tel 26710 28300. +0<9+0>): Argostoli 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun. *1/*<:@;6>5>1;03<:0 main public hols. Ithaca :<996<5,15/+6<5;9@:1,- (Píso Aetós) -.)33651B:+)71;)31::1;<);-, *@)*)@>1;05)996>:;9--;: 91:15/<7;0-0-),3)5,65>01+0 Asos 1;:;)5,:;:;9),1;165)3)77-)9 Agios )5+-1:,-+-7;1=-):9/6:;D31 Spyrídon >):,-:;96@-,15;0- Mýrtou Bay -)9;08<)2-)5,9-*<13;>1;0 ,65);165:.964-41/9)5;: Zóla $0-,-:;9<+;165)5,9- Sinióri *<13,15/1::06>515) Kardakáta Agía Efthimía 706;6/9)701++633-+ Ithaca ;165);;0-Historical Agía Thékla

and Folk Museum ;0-9

Fársa

Dilináta

Sámi

Pátra

ARGOSTOLI

Drogkaráti Cave Lássi

Ithaca (Vathý)

Agriliá

Lixoúri

Melissáni Cave-Lake

-?01*1;:9)5/- .9649<:;1+ .)9415/ 1473-4-5;:;6 ;9),1;165)3.632 +6:;<4-:

Agios Dimítrios

(Píso Aetós)

Ithaca (Vathý)

Fragkáta Kástro

Miniés

Forest Station

Kyllíni

Peratáta

Moní Agíou Vlacháta Andréa Mount Aínos Pessáda 0 kilometres 5

Zákynthos

1,630 m 5,350 ft

0 miles

10

Póros

Pástra Atsoupádes Markópoulo

Kyllíni

KEY For key to map see back flap For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–4 and pp330–31

Néa Skála

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 31,000. 9 km (5.5 miles) S of Argostóli. Argostóli, Fiskárdo, Agía Efthimía, Sámi, Póros, Pessáda. Ioánnou Metaxá, Argostóli. Waterfront, Argostóli (26710 22248). daily, Argostóli. Panagía or Snake Festival at Markópoulo: 15 Aug; Wine Festival at Fragáta: 1st Sat after 15 Aug.

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A view overlooking Asos in the northwest of the island

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Byzantine Museum Tel 26950 42714. Tue–Sun. main public hols.

Solomós Museum Tel 26950 48982. daily. main public hols.

Statue of the poet Solomós in the main square, Zákynthos town

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Zákynthos Town

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kinári Blue Caves

Kefalloniá

Koríthi

Agios Nikólaos

Volímes

Alykés

Tsiliví

Katastári

Moní tis Panagías

tis Anafonítrias

Kampí

Around the Island

<;:0+,;/,4(059,:69;:;/,9, 0:30;;3,;6<90:;+,=,3674,5; 65'C2@5;/6:;0:76::0)3,;6 +90=,(96<5+;/,0:3(5+05( +(@(:46:;6-;/,96(+:(9, 05.66+*65+0;0650905.(

Kyllíni

Plános

ZAKYNTHOS TOWN

Lagópodo

Vasilikós

Mouzáki

Agalás

Argási

Geráki

Laganás

KEY For key to map see back flap For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–4 and pp330–31

5

0 miles

Kerí 0 kilometres

5

#

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 30,000. 4 km (2 miles) S of Zákynthos town. Zákynthos town; Agios Nikólaos. Zákynthos town. Tzouláti 2, Zákynthos town (26950 42064). Zákynthos town Festival: Jul.

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The Blue Caves of Zákynthos on the northern tip of the island

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The chapel of Agios Nikólaos on Aígina

Póros town with the mountains of the Peloponnese in the background

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The harbour in Aígina town

ISLANDS AT A GLANCE

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KEY Main road Minor road Scenic route High season, direct ferry route

SEE ALSO

Summit

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Σαλαμνα

23,000. Paloúkia & Selínia. Salamína town. Thu at Salamína town, Sat at Aiánteio.

#*5*6G7*2<=1.5*;0.<=8/ =1. #*;872,>5/2<5*7-<*7- <8,58<.=8=1.7<=1*=68<= ;..4<,87<2-.;2=9*;=8/=1. 6*275*7- $1.2<5*7- 26252*=270<201=8/12< Fishing boats sailing into Aígina harbour ,>6+.;<86.<129<+.270 -.<=;8B.-27#*5*62< *B =;*99.-+B=1./*<=.;=;2;.6.< %.7.=2*7;>5.*7-=1.,87<=*7= 8/*<6*55.;;..4/5..=>7-.; 95*0>.8/92;*,B8@.?.; Αγινα $1.62<=845.< $1.2<5*7- G027*.738B.-/*6.*0*27/8; =8-*B2<*,1..;/>56.-5.B8/ 12,400. Aígina town. *+;2./9.;28-27 @1.7 1852-*B186.<266*,>5*=.5B Leonárdou Ladá, Aígina town 8E772<*98-G<=;2*< D @12=.@*<1.-,1>;,1.<*7- -.,5*;.-2==1./2;<= (22970 27777). ,1.*9=*?.;7*<*5=18>012=< ,*92=*58/68-.;7;..,. 75B 46 625.< .*<=,8*<=2<527.-@2=1* <8>=1@.<=8/=1.98;=8/ <=;2708/6*;27.<,;*9B*;-< *7-7*?*5+*<.< !2;*.>< G027*1*<+..727 $1.@.<=,8*<=,*92=*58/ 1*+2=.-/8;8?.; B.*;< Salamína town2<*,1*;65.<< *7-1*<;.6*27.-*72698; 95*,.<=;*--5270*72<=16><8/ =*7=<.==5.6.7==1;8>018>= /5*=5*7-/255.-@2=1?27.B*;-< =1*==26.,,8;-270=8;..4 8=1=1.=8@7*7-=1.2<5*7- 6B=18580B=1.2<5*7-<7*6. @*<,1*70.-/;86 27I72=8 *;.478@7*<8J58>;272,4 7*6.-*/=.;*+2<,>2==1*= G027*@18@*<=1.-*>01=.; ;.<.6+5.<=1.2<5*7-<<1*9. 8/=1.;2?.;08-<89I< *<=8/#*5*6G7*=8@7 */=.;).><27<=*55.-1.;87 Agios Nikólaos1*;B ,.7=>;B6*7<287<527270 =1.<.,87-5*;0.<= =1.:>*B<2-.*7-<6*55 #*;872,2<5*7-@*<=1. /2;<=95*,.27>;89. ,*H:>.<8//58*-270 =8627=2=<8@7<25?.; =1.2;,*=,18//2<1 The ruinous Venetian Pýrgos ,827<@12,1+.,*6. ;8*-/;86!*58J42* Markéllou in Aígina town *,,.9=.-,>;;.7,B 6.*7-.;<*,;8<<=1. =1;8>018>==1.;..4 <8>=18/=1.2<5*7-=8 <9.*4270@8;5-!5B270 Aigina Town =1.?255*0.<8/#.5G72* $12<92,=>;.<:>.2<5*7-=8@7 2E7=.28*7-!.;2<=F;2* =1..-2=.;;*7.*7*7- 7=1.78;=1@.<=8/=1. =1. 5*,4 #.*=1.9.895. 2<186.=86*7B,1>;,1.< #*5*6G7*=1. =1,.7=>;B 8/ G027*,87=;855.-68<= 27,5>-270=1.9;.==B =1 Moní Faneroménis5884< ,.7=>;B Agía Triáda7.A==8 /8;.207=;*-.27;..,. *,;8<<*7*;;8@0>5/=8 8@.?.;=1.2;5.0.7-*;B =1./2<16*;4.=8?.;5884270 7*>=2,*5<4255<*7-?*<= 7,2.7= 5.><2<87=1. =1.1*;+8>;==1.:>*B<2-. @.*5=1/27*55B27,>;;.- 18;<.-;*@7,*;;2*0.<=*4. ==2,,8*<=$1.687*< =.;B@*<><.-->;270 ?2<2=8;<=1;8>017*;;8@<=;..=< =1.@;*=18/7.201 Shrine opposite Moní +8>;270 =1.7<@18 =1.&*;8/7-.9.7 8/ .85*<<2,*56*7<287<=8 Faneroménis <.==5.-=1.5870=.;6 -.7,. =1.%.7.=2*7=8@.;Pýrgos ;2?*5;B+B,87:>.;270 Markéllou7.*;=1.,*=1.-;*5 *<*12-27095*,./8; Agios Nektários,*=1.-;*5 =1.2<5*7-27 G027*< ;..4/;..-86/201=.;<=< 27*>0>;*=.-27 2<<*2-=8 BC*7=27.,1>;,1@*<;.<=8;.- 68<=/*68><<2=.2<=1.@.55 +B=1.%.7.=2*7<*7-1*;B/;.<,8.;,1*/=.;0G* +>25=27*+8>= -.92,=270=1. #8/G*27<=*7+>5 ,=89><.< 9;28;=8=1.72*7 $8-*B7>7<@.5,86.?2<2=8;< ,87=;85*=.;=1.2<5*7--. *;.1>708>==8-;B*==*?.; *7-=.7-=1.0*;-.7<186. 7*<27=1.<=;..=5.*-270=8 ,527.-->;270=1.,.7=>;2.< =8*7>6+.;8/9.*,8,4< 8/*5=.;7*=270$>;42<1*7- =1./2<16*;4.=$8=1.78;=1

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–6 and pp331–2

Piraeus

Piraeus

Vath´y

Kypséli

Livádi

Palaiochóra

Omorfi Agios

AIGINA TOWN

Ekklisiá

Fáros

Marathónas

Anítsaio

Méthana

Metóchi

Mount Oros

MONI

AGKISTRI

Skála

Agkístri

Agía Marína

Nektários

Vaïa

Temple of Aphaia

Souvála

530 m 1,750 ft

Pérdika

Sfikári

Limenária

@*<-.<=;8B.-+B*;+*;8<<* =1.0.7.;*58/#>5=*7#>5.26*7 27 $1.*;.**;8>7-=1. 0 kilometres 2 =8@7@*<*+*7-87.-27 #8>=1/;86G027*=8@7=1. KEY ;8*-1>0<=1.<18;.+.7.*=1 For key to map see back flap =1.<1*-8@8/Mount Oros*=

6 /=!*<<270=1. =1,.7=>;BBC*7=27.,1>;,1 92<=*,1288;,1*;-<*7-=1. Omorfi Ekklisiá@12,11*< /2<12701*;+8>;8/E;8<=12< <86./27./;.<,8.<!250;26< <,.72,;8>=..7-<*=Pérdika =*4.=12<;8*-=89*B186*0. *==1.<8>=1@.<=.;7=298/=1. 2<5*7- ?.;5884270=1.1*; *= Agios Nektários ;,1 +2<189 .4=E;28< D +8>;=12<<6*5592,=>;.<:>. @*<=1./2;<=6*7=8+.,*787 /2<1270?255*0.1*<<86..A 2C.-2768-.;7=26.< ,.55.7=/2<1=*?.;7*<=1*=*;. +B=1. ;=18-8A1>;,1 9*,4.-*=@..4.7-<@2=1 Agios Nektários cathedral %2<2=8;<,*7<..12<:>*;=.;< =1.72*7<8?.;/8;*-*B=;29 in Aígina town *7-=1.,1*9.5@1.;.1.;.<=< 7=1.8998<2=.1255<2-.*;. Outlying Islands @.<=9*<=<189<<.5527092<=* =1.;.6*27<8/=1.-.<.;=.- ><= 627>=.<+B,*H:>. ,1287>=<*7-.*;=1.7@*;. /;86!F;-24*2<=1.2<5*7-8/ =8@78/Palaiochóra!89> 5*=.-<27,.BC*7=27.=26.<2= Moní989>5*;/8;2=<.6.;*5- 3>0<*;.=1.;.6*27<8/=1. 0;..7@*=.;<<.,5>-.- =1,.7=>;B Temple of Apollo $1.=1,.7=>;B ,8?.<*7-12--.7,*?.< Agkístri2<.*<25B*,,.< #9127A8/G027*78@27 =1.Aígina Museum@*< <2+5.+B,*H:>./;86 -2<,8?.;.-1.;. G027*=8@78;+B/.;;B /;86!2;*.>< ;2027*55B

Aígina Museum <.==5.-+B5+*72*7<=8 Kolóna 8. Tel 22970 22637. -*B=12<2<5*7-2<,85872C.- Tue–Sun. main public +B.;6*7<@181*?. hols. +8>01=68<=8/=1.18><.< Environs 27=1.?255*0.8/.=I,12 8;=18/G027*=8@727 3><=*+8?.#4E5*98;= 2?E-2*95*:>.6*;4< 5=18>016*7B18=.5< =1.18><.@1.;.G48< *9*;=6.7=<*7-+*;<1*?. *C*7=CE42<@;8=. +..7+>25=27#4E5**7- G58<2=<8=1.;6*2798;= =1.;.<=8/=12<1255B927. Around the Island ,5*-2<5*7-;.6*27<5*;0.5B >7<9825=26.7E;2*27=1. G027**=875B46 <8>=18/=1.2<5*7-2<* 625.<*,;8<<2<.*5 .A958;.+B+2,B,5.><= ,866>72=B8//*;6.;< The scattered ruins of Byzantine chapels 8//=1.6*27;8*-.*<= *7-/2<1.;6.7 around the deserted town of Palaiochóra /;86G027*=8@72<=1. 0 miles

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52205/&'&$91+/'42''30/#*+--401#$06'4*'$5392'3024 0( );##2;/#4*''.1-'0( 1*#+#+30/'0(4*'$'34 12'3'26'&02+%4'.1-'3+/2''%' # *'12'3'/4 4'.1-''3(20.#205/& $544*'3+4'+3,/07/40*#6' $''/#1-#%'0(7023*+1(20.4*' 4*%'/4529/ 4*' '2.#/#2%*#'0-0)+34 &0-(5247:/)-'2(05/&#/+/3%2+14+0/ 404*')0&&'33 1*#+#&+31206+/)4*'02+'34*#44*'4'.1-' 7#3&'&+%#4'&40 4*'/# -4*05)*3.#--'24*'$5+-&+/)+3 3+.+-#2404*'4'.1-'0("'53#4-9.1+#$5+-4 9'#23-#4'2 ! !

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The east pediment sculptures7+4*

2%*#+%+/349-'

Aerial view of the site from the south Triglyph Metope Architrave

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! Ramp from

" altar to temple

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! " For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–6 and pp331–2

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! ! The roof7#3

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Opisthodomos, or rear porch

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 12 km (7 miles) E of Aígina town. Tel 22970 32398. Site Apr– Oct: 8:15am–7pm daily; Nov–Mar: 8:15am–5pm daily. Museum 9am–1pm Tue–Sun (entry at 9am, 11am, noon, 1pm only). 1 Jan, 25 Mar, Good Fri am, Easter Sun, 1 May, 25, 26 Dec.

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RECONSTRUCTION OF THE TEMPLE OF APHAIA

Cult statue of the goddess Aphaia

The pool of olive oil7#3#

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TEMPLE PEDIMENTS *'(#.0533%5-1452'3(20.4*'1'&+.'/430(4*'4'.1-' 0( 1*#+#7'2'&+3%06'2'&$9#)20510(2+4+3*#/& '2.#/#2%*+4'%43#/+343+/%-5&+/)0*/034'2 0%,'2'--#/&#20/#--'260/#--'234'+/+/ 12+- *'97'2'-#4'230-&404*'207/2+/%'0( #6#2+##4#5%4+0/#/'/07*053'&+/4*' -91404*',+/5/+%**'910242#94*'3425))-'3 0(6#2+053.94*0-0)+%#-*'20'3*'3%5-1452'3 (20.4*'7'341'&+.'/4'(20.#205/&

#/'+/4*'-#4' 2%*#+%349-' *03'(20.4*''#347+4*4*'+2.02' (-5+&.06'.'/43#/&3'2+053'812'33+0/3 '(20.#11208+.#4'-9 #/& Reconstruction of the Warriors (02'3*#&074*'-#33+%#-349-' sculpture from the west pediment

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4,000. Póros town.

Póros town (22980 22462). Fri (am) at Paidikí Chará.

"I;8<=*4.<2=<7*6./;86=1. 6 /=9*<<*0. <.9*;*=2702=/;86=1. 6*275*7-*=*5*=F<"I;8<2< 27/*,==@82<5*7-<3827.-+B *,*><.@*B927.<@*=1.*5F?;2*=8=1.78;=1*7-=1. <6*55.;?85,*72,2<5.=8/$/*2;H* 27=1.<8>=18?.;@12,1 Póros town2<+>25=7<92=.8/ 6>,1=8>;2<=-.?.5896.7= =1.=8@72<*7*99.*5270 95*,..A=.7-270*5870=1. 7*;;8@<=;*2=<+>;B 18><.<,526+27=2.;<=82=< *9.A*=*,58,4=8@.; %1. National Naval Academy78;=1@.<=8/=1. ,*><.@*B*7-"I;8<=8@7 @*<<.=>927 785- +*==5.<1292<><>*55B*=*7,18; =1.;./8;=;*272707*?*5,*-.=< %1.*==;*,=2?. =1,.7=>;B Moní Zoödóchou Pigís,*7+. /8>7-87*5F?;2*+>25= *;8>7-=1.2<5*7-<875B<9;270 %1.;.*;.=1.;>27<8/*=1 ,.7=>;B1255=89Temple of Poseidon7.*;=1.,.7=;.8/ *5F?;2*7.A==8@12,1=1. 8;*=8; .68<=1.7.<982<87.- 126<.5/27 ;*=1.;=1*7 <>;;.7-.;=8=1.*,.-872*7< 7*7=2:>2=B=1.<2=.@*< 5274.-=8*7,2.7=%;8.C.727 =1.".589877.<.%1.=.695. 1*<>75262=.-*,,.<<

The busy waterfront on Ydra

3,000. Ydra town.

Ydra town (22980 52205). Mandráki 1.5 km (1 mile) NE of Ydra town; Vlychós 2 km (1 mile) SW of Ydra town.

58707*;;8@6*<<8/ +*;;.7;8,4(-;*1*- 52==5.12<=8;B+./8;.=1. =1,.7=>;B@1.72= @*<<.==5.-+B!;=18 -8A 5+*72*7<@18 =1.7=>;7.-=8=1.<.* /8;*52?270(-;*=8@7 @*<+>25=27*+;2./ 9.;28-8/9;8<9.;2=B27 =1.5*=. =1*7-.*;5B =1,.7=>;2.<+88<=.- +B+58,4*-.;>77270 ->;270=1. *985.872, @*;< /=.; 7-.9.7 -.7,. (-;*5*9<.- 27=88+<,>;2=B*0*27 >7=25/8;.207.;<

Póros town, its houses clustered on the hillside of Sfairía For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–6 and pp331–2

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Bell tower of Ydra’s Panagía church

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+>25=+B2=27.;*7=,;*/=<6.7 [email protected] *7- !7 =1..*<=<2-.8/=1.1*;+8>; =1. Tsamadoú mansion2< 78@=1. *=287*5.;,1*7= *;27. ,*-.6B!7=1. @.<==1.Tompázi mansion2< * $,18858/27.;=<><= +.127-=1.,.7=;.8/=1. 6*;+5.9*?.-:>*B2<=1.687 *<=2,,1>;,18/=1.Panagía +>25=[email protected] *7- ><2706*<87;B/;86"I;8<< %.695.8/"8<.2-87%1. 6*;+5.+.5/;B2<=18>01==8 1*?.+..7.;.,=.-+B*6*< =.;<=87.6*<87/;86%H78< Around the Island

&2<2=8;<6><=@*54?2;=>*55B The old harbour of Báltiza on Spétses .?.;B@1.;.87(-;*8;12;. 27 *7-=1.7+B5+*72*7< @*=.;=*A2<=808*5870=1. ->;270=1. =1,.7=>;B=1. ,8*<= Kamíni 627>=.< 2<5*7--.?.589.-*<*7*?*5 @*54<8>=1@.<=*5870=1. 98@.;*7-<>9952.-*/5..=/8; <18;.=;*,41*<+..7(-;*< 6*27/2<127098;=<27,.=1. =1.;..4;.?85>=287*;B.//8;= =1,.7=>;B%1./*;61*65.= "8<<2+5B=1.68<=/*68>< 8/ Episkopí27=1./*;<8>=1 $9.=<28=@*<*<4*;H7* @.<=8/=1.2<5*7-><.-=8 8>+8>5H7*=1. *-62;*5@186.7 +.*<>66.;;./>0.*7- *,.-=1.%>;4< *1>7=270;.<8;=/8;=1. /;861.;/5*0<129 >99.;,5*<<.<718>;< *7- <=..9124.*+8?.=1. ;.9>=.-5B<.->,.- =8@72<=1.,87?.7= 6.7*=0>79827= 8/ Agía Efpraxía @12,1<=25518><.< $1.@*<<18=27

+B=1./*=1.;8/*02;5 7>7<@18*;.4..7 1.;<871*-.589.- =8<.55B8>1*7-2,;*/=< @2=1 >;270=1. < %1.*-3*,.7= =1 *7-<$9G=<.<@*<* ,.7=>;B Profítis Ilías /*<1287*+5.;.<8;=/8; />7,=287<*<*687 *<=.;B 7=1.2<5*7-< ;2=2<1.A9*=;2*=.<*7- .*<=.;71*5/?2<2+5. *70589125.;..4<%1. +*787?.12,5.<2<78= /;86";8/H=2<5H*< *;.=1;..>7271*+2=.- =8=*5689.-<*7- 687*<=.;2.<-*=270 18;<.,*+<,*7+. /;86=1. =1*7- 12;.-27=8@7*7- =1,.7=>;2.<%1.B =1.;.*;.+><.<=8 6*;4=1.*;->8>< =1.+.*,1.< 18>;5870;8>=. Statue of =8 Moní Panagía Spétses Town Bouboulína in $9G=<.<=8@7;>7< <2=>*=.-8>=7.*; Spétses town *5870=1.,8*<=/8; *9.)8J;?*<=8=1. 46 625.=<,.7=;. 78;=1.*<=8/=1.2<5*7- 52.<*= =F92*:>*B/;270.- +B,*/G<%1. 8/ 1*=C22F772<GA2<-*=270 /;86 2<78@=1.Chatzi Giánnis Méxis Museum 8>+8>5H7*<,8//272<87 3,700. Spétses town. -2<95*B*<@.55*;.1.*-<

Spétses town (22980 73100). /;861.;<129.;/8;6.; Wed at Kokinária. 186.2<78@=1.9;2?*=.5B;>7 $9G=<.<2<*,8;;>9=2878/ Bouboulína Museum "2=B8J<<*8;D"27.BE=1. $8>=1.*<=/;861.;.52.<=1. 85-1*;+8>;*=Báltiza275.= *7,2.7=7*6./8;=12<;8>7- 0;..72<5*7-!,,>92.-+B=1. @1.;.@88-.7+8*=<*;.<=255 &.7.=2*7<27

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6.=18-< +8?.=1.1*;+8>; 2<=1.*==;*,=2?. =1,.7=>;B ,1>;,18/Agios Nikólaos @12,11*<<86./27.9.++5. 68<*2,<*7-*+.5/;B6*-.+B ,;*/=<6.7/;86%H78< Chatzi-Giánnis Méxis

Museum 300 m (985 ft) from the port. Tel 22980 72994. Tue–Sun. main public hols. Bouboulína Museum Behind Plateía Ntápia. Tel 22980 72416. 25 Mar–28 Oct: 9:30am–9pm daily.

Around the Island

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Pebble mosaic from the church of Agios Nikólaos, Spétses town

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Κθηρα

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Kapsáli harbour seen from Chóra

Chóra

0I:)0);*--6J<01:); +)81<)4764A;16+-<0-,-;<:=+ <1767.")4)1I+07:)16 <;5)/61.1+-6/I1;4-< Moní Agíou Theodórou Crete Diakófti• Douriánika <07=/0<<7*-<0- • • • Friligkiánika *1:<084)+-7. Agía 80:7,1<-1; Agios Geórgios • Sofía Cave =6:1>)44-,<0:7=/0 • Mitáta • Avlémonas Mylopótamos 7=<<0-:--3 • • Palaiópoli • Káto • • 1;4)6,;5)/6-< • Chóra Fónissa Kastrí .7:?-)4<0A<0-61)6; • • • Frátsia <0-)88-)416/47?-: Limniónas Kaladí <7?6?1<01<;;741,4A Limnária *=14<.4)<:77.-,5)6;176; • • ,)<-;.:75<0- <0<7 <0 • Kalokairinés +-6<=:1-;%0- Archaeological Komponáda Livádi • Museum2=;<7=<;1,-0I:) 0);.16,;.:75A+-6)-)6 5 Kálamos )6,167)6;1<-; Moní • Fyrí 84=;/:)>-;<76-; 3 Agios Ioánnis Ammos • sto Gkremó ,)<16/.:75<0- Melidóni • • CHORA :1<1;07++=8)<1767. Kapsáli • Chalkós D

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KEY

For key to map see back flap

0 miles

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Archaeological Museum Tel 27360 31739. 8:45am–2pm Tue–Sat, 9:30am–1pm Sun. main public hols.

Environs

The houses of Chóra clustered on the hillside at dusk For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp304–6 and pp331–2

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 3,000. 22 km (14 miles) NE of Chóra. Agía Pelagía & Kapsáli. runs between Agía Pelagía & Kapsáli and between Diakófti & Kapsáli. 27360 33222. Sun at Potamós.

*--65=+0)4<-:-,)6,<0- ):79=-:-41-.84)9=-7>-:<0- ,77:1;):):1-7);1; 13-5)6A:--31;4)6,;<0- ;<76-;<:)<)<<0--6<:)6+-) >144)/-?1<0+4=;<-:;7.07=;-; *-;-:0)6/16/<0-;<--8*)63; 1;*A+):8):<1+=4):4A);1<1; <0+-6<=:A0-:51<,-81+<; 7.);<:-)5>)44-A 9=1<-57=6<)167=;*=; 74A'1;,75)6,<0:-- :=6;<7<0-5)16<7?6;76+-) )<<-6,)6<>1:<=-;")4)17+0I:) Agía Sofía Cave Mylopótamos. Tel 27360 33754. ,)A,=:16/<0-;=55-: <0-AB)6<16-C+)81<)4E7. Tue–Sun. Nov–Mar. J<01:)).<-: ?);;1<-, .:75/H)"-4)/H)<7 Jul & Aug. ;7);<7*-6-):4A16>1;1*4- )8;F41 Avlémonas ?1<01<;>)=4<-, .:75<0-;-)*=<<0-81:)<- Outlying Islands ?):-07=;-;)6, ):*):7;;),-<-+<-,)6, 1:-+<4A67:<07.J<01:)<0- ,7=*4-0):*7=: ,-;<:7A-,1<16 %0- *)::-61;4-<7.Elafonísi1; .7:5;)6)<<:)+<1>- :=16;7.<0-<7?68-:+076 >1;1<-,57;<4A*A:--3;.7:1<; .1;016/87:<)<<0- <787.);0--: 5

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35514-;;7=<0-);<7. <0-+)::A16/ <0+-6<=:A Agía Varvára %7<0-;7=<0Moní Agíou <0-87:<<7?6%0-:-57<- 5)6A7.<0-4/16 Theodórou1;<0-;-)<7. ):*4-;;)6316 1;4)6,7.Antikýthira;7=<0 J<01:);*1;078%0-+0=:+0 -);<7.J<01:)0);)<16A @+-44-6< *-)+0-;-@<-6,<7 7:1/16)44A <0+-6<=:A0); 878=4)<176)6,67*-)+0-; -1<0-:;1,-7. );<:H8716<%0- Roadside shrine <0+-6<=:A0144 on Kýthira <78+0=:+07. Agios Geórgios ?01+00);)57;)1+.477:;1<; 01/0)*7>->4G576); !6<0-7<0-:;1,-7.<0- 1;4)6,1;Mylopótamos:75 0-:-)<:)+34-),;?-;<<7<0- ;5)44I61;;)?)<-:.)44,7?6 ;<:-)5.:75?01+01;)5144 07=;-)6,)<16A;<76-*:1,/- 61<;*4=..<78;1<=)<176?1<0 ;<--8,:78;<7<0-67:<0)6, ?-;<)6,)+4=<+07.47+3-, +0)8-4;<0-&-6-<1)63F;<:7 )< Káto Chóra;=8-:.1+1)44A :-;-5*4-;")4)1I+07:)-:<0--6<:)6+- 6-):*A)66/41;0*=14<;+0774 7.

1;*-16/:-;<7:-, Agía Sofía Cave 35 514-;.:75F<70I:) )6, 5 .<)*7>-<0- View to the east across a gorge from Palaióchora

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Castel Rosso near Kárystos on Evvoia The harbour of Agnóntas on Skópelos in the evening sun

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A house in Stení on Evvoia, with Mount Dírfys in the background

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SEE ALSO 00 : 0 The harbour of Skópelos town

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GETTING AROUND +?2/3".%+*;4)/3"2&#/4)$/..&$4&% 7*4)4)&.3#9*.4&2.",',*()43+*;4)/33 *.4&2."4*/.","*20/24",3/$"4&23'/2 $)"24&2',*()433,".%)/00*.(*3 &"39*.4)&35--&23&"3/.7*4) '2&15&.4'&22*&3".%,9*.( .ØMPT /,0)*.)9%2/'/*,30,9*.( 4LâSPT5PXO #&47&&.4)&0/2"%&3 3KâROS 66/*"".%4)&-"*. ,".% 4*3",3/0/33*#,& 4/$/..&$4#9'&229 +OCHâLAS 7*4)4)&9$,"%&3".% M )&33",/.<+* ;2934/3 *34)&#&34#"3&'/24/52 3ARAKINI *.(4)&3/54)/'66/*" 34"9"4?-*'/24)&&"34 $/"34".%<-.*/2/542; *%*03/>'/2"4/52/'4)& ./24))&2&"2&(//%2/"%3 "2/5.%66/*"".%"'2&15&.4 2&,*"#,ȕ&26*$&

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View of Skýros town from the kástro

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"1/A:.59.'9'2='?9(++4'4;4'9.'3+*2? .+*54/9:/)/92'4*,853/:9+'82?:5;8/9: *+<+2563+4:/4:.+ 9=.+4/:'::8'):+*:.+ 8/).'4*,'35;9=/:./:92+-+4*'8?(+').+9:5 /:9);88+4:852+'9(;)1+:'4*96'*+6'8'*/9+,58 ,'3/2?6')1'-+:5;892:.5;-.:.+/4:85*;):/54 5,*/8+):6')1'-+,2/-.:9.'9*/3/4/9.+* "1/A:.599+>)2;9/<+9:':;9:.+2;>;8??').:9'8+ 9:/22/4+
The sweeping bay of Koukounariés

)';9+='?#.+6/4+)5<+8+* /92+:54)+',58:8+99/945=' );2:;8'2)+4:8+'4*.59:9:.+ '44;'2+-+'4,+9:/<'25, Kástro *'4)+:.+':8+'4*)54)+8: • Lalária • 6+8,583'4)+9+').9;33+8 • Moní Agíou Charalámpou 5;8:@//9*53/4':+*(?' Panagía • Moní Evangelismoú .'4*953++52'99/)'2 Kardási• (;/2*/4-=/:.'9:':;+5, Taxiárchis :.+,'35;98++1 Agios Apóstolos Thessaloníki, 45<+2/9:2B>'4*859 Skópelos '6'*/'3A4:/9 Profítis Ilías • Loutráki 9:'4*/4--;'8* /,+/4"1/A:.59 • Kechriá SKIATHOS ARGOS :5=4)+4:8+9 TOWN Agios Ioánnis 54:.+254- • Asélinos • • Fteliá 9=++6/4-7;'? Andros 9/*+92/4+*=/:. Moní Panagías • Sýros, Kounístras 4;3+85;9! Vólos Tínos 96+)/'2/@/4-/4 Mandráki • 93'22 TSOUGKRIA .54+?+*,8/::+894 :.++<+4/4-9:.+ Kalamáki • TSOUGRIAKI Koukounariés • =':+89/*+'::8'):9 Troúllos 3'4?6+562+,58'9:8522 Máratha /4:.+)5524/-.:'/8;8/4:.+*'?:.+8+/9:.+96+):')2+ ,589.566/4-,;225,'853':/) 5,'88/)+22+4: )+22+4: View of Skiáthos town from the church of Profítis Ilías

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp306–7 and p332

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 5,000. 2 km (1 mile) NE of Skiáthos town. Harbourfront, Skiáthos town. 24270 23172. Aegean Festival of Dance, Skiáthos town: Jul.

9:;44/4-'4*85958'D:/*/9:.+ =8/:+896+4:./92'9:*'?9.+8+ '9'3541/4:.++'82? 9 ;9:95;:.5,.+8+/9Moní An ornate fresco in the Christós sto Kástro church Evangelismoú5;4*+*/4 (?35419,8535;4: 9;).'95;15;4'8/B9'4* 6599/(2+:5,/4**+9+8:+* :.59/:62'?+*')8;)/'2852+ '2A8/'58:5:.+4+'8(? (+').+9'4*)5<+99)'::+8+* /4:.+%'85,4*+6+4*+4)+ /92'4*95,#95;-18/A'4*8-59 '254-:.+458:.+84)5'9:'4? ./*/4-3'4? ,8++*53,/-.:+89 +./4*:.+.'8(5;8/9:.+ 5,:.+9+9;).'9Kechriá Papadiamántis Museum '4* Mandráki)'4542?(+ #5:.+95;:.5,54C-C5; .'8'2A365;54:.+='? ,583+8.53+5,:.+25)'22? );89/549 (58445<+2/9:=.59+4'3+ 9:56,58',+=.5;8954:.+/8 (')1:5"1/A:.59:5=4/9:.+ (+';:/,;2).;8).5,Taxiárchis /::'1+92:.5;-.:/4?:.+ *'?:8/69'85;4*:.+/92'4* 3;9+;39.5=9:.+9/362/)/:? #.+3'/485'*95;:.,853 :/9)5<+8+*/462':+9/4:.+ 9.'6+5,')8599'4*:.+(+9: 5,25)'2/92'4*2/,+68/58:5:.+ "1/A:.59:5=46'99+9:+2/A '4*(8'4).+9:5:.+=+9:0;9: 3/4+8'2968/4-=':+854:.+ /4<'9/545,:5;8/93 (+,58+#85F2259,589B2/459 /92'4*,25=95;:5,':'6:.': Papadiamántis Museum (+').'4*Moní Panagías /9(?:.+).;8). Tel 24270 23843. May–Oct. Kounístras#.+3541=.5 ,5;4*+*:./9 :.)+4:;8? ALEXANDROS 354'9:+8?58/-/4'22?)'22+* PAPADIAMANTIS '4'-C'/154C9:8/'*/9)5<+8+* #.+/92'4*9359:,'35;9 '3/8');25;9/)54/4'4+'8(? 4':/<+/954+5,8++)+9 :8++#.+/)54/91+6:/4#8/E4 5;:9:'4*/4-2/:+8'8?,/-;8+9 +8'8).E4/4"1/A:.59:5=4 2B>'4*859 '6'*/'3A4:/9 #.+6':.458:.,853.+8+ 96+4:./9+'82?)./2*.55* 2+'*9:5Agios Ioánnis=.+8+ 54:.+/92'4*=/:.,/<+ /:/9);9:53'8?:59:56'4* (85:.+89'4*9/9:+89(+,58+ 8/4-:.+).;8).(+22',:+8 2+'
Moní Agíou Charalámpou, set in .5;9+9'8+9:/22
:.)+4:;8?).;8).5, 5,(/8*2/,+#./9/9/4)54:8'9: '::.+'-+5, :5:.+5<+8*+<+256+* Profítis Ilías=./)..'9' 95;:.+84)5'9::/99:/22 -55*:'<+84'4+'8(?=/:. Kalamáki beach, Skiáthos

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The way up to Panagía tou Pýrgou above Skópelos town

KEY

Glóssa

8,) ,-7-*%1-0=-28,) 8, ')2896=8,)'%780)78%2(732 8,)7-8)3*8,) 8,')2896= Loutráki Loutráki %'63430-73*%2'-)28!/F4)037 Skiáthos, Vólos ",)',96',2)%6)788,)'%780) Mount Délfi -7 Agios Athanásios 8 Glystéri Alónnisos ;%7&9-08-28,) 8, 680 m Elios 2,230 ft ')2896=&988,) Moní Timíou *392(%8-327 Prodrómou Moní (%8)*6318,) Metamórfosis SKOPELOS 8,')2896= DASIA TOWN Miliá Moní • tou Sotíros ",)6)%6) Evangelistrías Adrína 731)*-2) Mount Paloúki Pánormos 8,')2896= Moní Taxiarchón *6)7'3)7-27-() 385 m ",) Folk Art 1,260 ft Limnonári Museum-7 Velóna 7-89%8)(&),-2(8,) Stáfylos Agnóntas ,%6&396*6328-2% 8, ')2896=1%27-32-)')7 3**962-896)%2()<%140)73* 86%(-8-32%003'%0'37891)7%2( 0 kilometres 5 )1&63-()6=%6)32(-740%=

Skópelos town, Skiáthos

For key to map see back flap

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Skópelos Town

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'6%*871%2 28F2-37 +36%78F7 )6',)(32%'0-**834%&3:) 8,)83;28,)0%2(1%6/',96', 3* Panagía tou Pýrgou;-8, -877,-2-2+*-7,7'%0)633* 3:)6033/78,),%6&396 ",)30(59%68)63*!/F4)037 83;28,)B78637-87%&3:) 8,)13()6283;2%2(-7 8344)(&=8,)6)1%-273* 8,)#)2)8-%2castle 9-08&=

Folk Art Museum Chatzistamáti. Tel 24240 23494. Nov–May: 8:30am–2:30pm daily; Jun–Oct: 10:30am–2:30 pm & 6–10:30pm daily.

Environs

28,),-007%&3:)!/F4)037 83;28,)6)%6)291)6397 -146)77-:)132%78)6-)7 )%',)(&=8,)63%(+3-2+ )%783983*8,)83;28,)=%00

The attractive bay of Skópelos town, viewed from the Kástro

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp306–7 and p332

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 5,000. Skópelos town. Harbourfront (24240 23221). Panagía: 15 Aug.

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Two of the old houses in Palaiá Alónnisos in the process of restoration

3,000. Patitíri. Kokkinókastro 6 km (4 miles) N of Patitíri.

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An example of traditional Skýrian embroidery in the Faltáits Museum

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Archaeological Museum Plateía Brooke. Tel 22220 91327. Tue–Sun. main public hols.

Faltáits Museum Palaiópyrgos. Tel 22220 91232. daily. Skýros Centre Tel 020-7267 4424 (contact London office for bookings, www.skyros.co.uk). Apr–Oct.

Environs

The Castle of Lykomedes towering above Skýros town For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp306–7 and p332

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

For key to map see back flap

3,000. 18 km (11 miles) NW of Skýros town. Linariá. Skýros town. 22220 91600. Carnival around island: end Feb–early Mar.

Meroí

Mólos

SKYROS TOWN

#

Atsítsa

Magaziá Pouriá

Kyrá Panagiá

&

Agios Fokás

Ormos Achíli

"

K O U LO U R I

Péfkos

Linariá

ERINIA

Kalamítsa

#

Sea Caves

VA L A S A Evvoia

Vo u n ó 0 kilometres

5

Treís Mpoúkes

0 miles

KEY

Kalogriá

3

))+99:5%5;4F:.+35;4 :'/45;995;:.+846'8:5,:.+ /92'4*/9:.85;-.'4'885= ,+8:/2+<'22+?95;:.5,Ormos Achíli(+:=++4:.+/92'4*9 :=5.'2<+9$.+85'*)54:/4;+9 95;:.:5Kalamítsa('?'4* (+?54*:5Treís Mpoúkes' 4':;8'2*++6=':+8.'8(5;8 ;9+*(?6/8':+9/4:.+6'9: '4*:.+8++1'
SARAKINI

:=52++='8*(+').+99.+2:+8+* ,853:.+ 458:.=/4* 853.+8+:.+85'*2+'*9:5 :.+93'22)2;9/<+2? :,5839:.+)+4:8+6/+)+5,:.+68++4:+4 54#1G8599/4)+'4)/+4: ,+9:/

Εβοια

"/!- -!/!11*%%.-!!!.'-#!./%.') /%. #!)!-''40).+*%'/4/*0-%.() %/. %1!-.! ') .+!) $%./*-4(&!%/(%-**.(*"/$! 2$*'!*0)/-4-*(! *)%)-0'!%) /* 0-&%.$#*1!-)(!)/0)/%' /$!%.') $..0""!-! ()4*0+/%*).-!.*"11*%.(%3! $%./*-4-!2% !'4!1% !)/"-*(/$! Cape Artemísio -)#!*"-!'%#%*0.0'/0-!.%) $'&6 /*/$! !.!) )/. %&0&01%"0&1",#1%" Agriovótano *"/$!)/0-4 ')%) 11)",#/1"*&0&2* Istiaía Psaropoúli Gl´yfa %((%#-)/.2$*./%'' 4%& %1,,(-) " Paralía Kotsikiás .+!&/$!%-*2) &+

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Loutrá Agios Giáltron Geórgios

Agios Vasíleios

Loutrá Aidipsoú

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Arkítsa

Mantoúdi

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Moní Galatáki

Prokópi Mount Pixariá

Giáltra

Mount Kandíli

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1,361m 4,464ft

1,343 m 4,405 ft

Nerotriviá Néa Artáki

CHALKÍDA

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STAR SIGHTS

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Loutrá Aidipsoú Kárystos

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 208,000. Agiókampos, Erétria, Kárystos, Loutrá Aidipsoú, Marmári, Néa Stýra, Paralía Kýmis. Chalkída. Chalkída (22210 77777). Summer Drama Festival in Chalkída: May–Sep.

# 4")1%6-,/1&+ 1%"

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Kými

Mount Dírfys

Attáli

Paralía Kýmis Platána

1,745 m 5,720 ft

1,172 m 3,844 ft

Ancient Erétria Erétria

Paralía

Mourterí

Ochthoniá

Avlonári

Alivéri

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Skála Oropoú

Néa Stýra

Kalérgo

Agía Marína

Stýra

Stení

Mount Olympos

Skýros

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Mount Ochi Mount Ochi

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75,000. Athinón. corner of Athanasíou Diákou & Frízi. 22210 77777. Mon–Sat. Agía Paraskeví celebrations: 26 Jul–1 Aug.

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)'8'362+95,:.+9+/4)2;*+ :.+ :.)+4:;8?synagogue 54 G:95;:.+(+';:/,;2 :. )+4:;8?3597;+Emir Zade Chalkída’s waterfront market /4:.+97;'8+3'81/4-:.+ +4:8'4)+:5:.+B9:85'4* Exploring Chalkída :.+).;8).5,Agía Paraskeví 2:.5;-.3;).5,35*+84 $.+3597;+/9;9;'22? )259+*(;:5;:9/*+/9'4 .'21E*'/9*53/4':+*(? )533+8)/'2'):/:+8/58 .'9'(;9:2/4-+4)259+* 3'81+:=.+8+,'83+89,853 :.+4+/-.(5;8/4-
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The 15th-century mosque in the Kástro, home to some Byzantine relics

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp306–7 and p332

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Picturesque Kárystos harbour, with Mount Ochi in the background

Environs

130 km (80 miles) SE of Chalkída. 4,600.

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!'9: Alivéri=/:./:9 3+*/+<'2)'9:2+'4*;-2? Folk Museum 65=+89:':/54:.+ 50 m (165 ft) from >)'<':/549(+-;4/4:.+ 85'**/+9'4*6'4:.+89 9:8;):;8+9(;/2::.+3 '9:+362+9/4'85;4* Archaeological Museum On the road from Chalkída to Alivéri. :.+:.)+4:;8?

22 km (14 miles) SE of Chalkída.

Tel 22290 62206. Tue–Sun.

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Scenic road running through olive groves between Ochthoniá and Avlonári

;018;.:75M51841-,<0- -/-)6;-):7=<-;#0- 6)::7?;<:--<;7.-4-/)6<-7 90 km (56 miles) E of Chalkída. 4);;1+)407=;-;<-;<1.A<71<; 1,140. 8);144)/-7. ;8:16/?)<-:.:756-):*A >476G:1?1<0<0-1:-7 076-.<13J)6,);<)<=- 4);;1+)407=;-;+4=;<-:-, 16<0-5)16;9=):-7.: ):7=6,:=16-,%-6- -J:/17; )8)61374G7= <1)6<7?-:;):-:-516 M51;57;<.)57=; 1;+-6<7.8:7<-+<-, ;76)6,16>-6<7:7.<0- $5*:1)60144<7?6; +-:>1+)4;5-):C )8 :)631;0+);<4- <-;<E6-@<-6;1>-)6, 7>-:4773;<0->144)/- ?-447:/)61B-,Folk Dr Papanikoláou Museum+76<)16; 7.+0<0761G)6, (1883–1962) 5)6A-@01*1<;.:75 2=;476G:1 1;<0-,1;<16+<1>- <0 A51)641.-;=+0);) +-6<=:A*);141+)7./17; .16-+744-+<1767.=619=- 15I<:17;?01+01;<0-4):/-;< +7+776-5*:71,-:1-;)6, AB)6<16-+0=:+016>>71) +7;<=5-;6<0-:7),67:<0 7.M51<0- <0+-6<=:A -A76,<0-.-:<14-.1-4,;<0)< Moní Metamórfosis tou ;=::7=6,<0-;->144)/-;?14, Sotíra67?160)*1<-,*A *-)+0-;;=+0);<07;-)< /17;-:37K:1;)6,7=:<-:I 6=6;8-:+0-;76<0-+41..-,/- ;<:-<+07=<<7?):,;<0-.7:*1, ,16/+41..;7.)8-+0<0761G Folk Museum

Tel 22220 22011. by appointment only. main public hols.

31 km (20 miles) NE of Chalkída. 1,250.

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90 km (56 miles) NE of Chalkída. 4,000. Sat. Platána 7 km (4.5 miles) S.

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Moní Sotíra in the mountains near Kými overlooking the sea

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp306–7 and p332

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52 km (32 miles) NW of Chalkída. 1,200. Sun. Krýa Vrýsi 15 km (9 miles) N.

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View across the beach at Cape Artemísio

105 km (65 miles) NW of Chalkída. to Agriovótano. Agriovótano (22260 41720) Psaropoúli 15 km (9 miles) SE.

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90 km (56 miles) NW of Chalkída. 5,000. 22260 22456. Mon–Sat Giáltra 20 km (12 miles) SW.

Façade of the mansion on the Noel Baker Kandíli estate, Prokópi

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87 km (54 miles) NW of Chalkída. 2,100. 22270 32111.

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Mólyvos harbour, Lésvos, overlooked by the town’s 14th-century Genoese castle The broad, sandy beach near the village of Kámpos, Ikaría

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Exterior of the Archaeological Museum, Thásos

Ancient Thásos Site & Museum Tel 25930 22180. Tue–Sun. main public hols.

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THASOS TOWN

1>0D • Néos B8974 Prínos *,B14 &?&;D9. 43D 7(-&3,C14:.(-&E1 • Skala 49&2.B Sotíras Sotíra !49D7&8 "-B848 "4<3 "-*41F,48

Megálo Kazavíti

• Chrysí Ammoudiá

• Skála Potamiás

Potamiá

Mount Ipsário

1,200 m 3,950 ft

Kástro

Theológos

• Loutrá

Moní Archangélou Michaïl Astrís •

For key to map see back flap For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp307–9 and pp333–4

Limenária Tripití • • • Pefkári • Potós

KEY

Panagiá •

Alykí

0 kilometres

5

0 miles

3

" ! !

PLAN OF ANCIENT THASOS

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 16,000. Thásos town. Panagiá: 15 Aug.

KEY TO PLAN 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Archaeological Museum Agora Temple of Dionysos Theatre Citadel Walls Temple to Athena Poliouchos Shrine to Pan Gate of Parmenon

'**37**7*(9*).9.8*&8> 9497&(*9-**88*39.&184+ &3(.*39(.;.(1.+*.3(1:).3, 8*;*7&19*251*894,4)8&3) )*.+.*) 42&3*25*7478 +4:3)&9.4384+-*74*8243: 2*398&3)9-**=9*38.;* )7&.3&,*8>89*2 4:3)&9.4384+&Temple of Dionysos<-*7*& 7)(*39:7> 2&7'1*-*&)4+9-*,4) <&8+4:3)2&709-*89&794+ 9-*5&9-:5949-*&(74541.8 &791>4;*7,74<3'>4&089-* *11*3.89.( theatre-&885*( 9&(:1&7;.*<84:9948*&"-* 42&38&)&59*)9-*89&,*&7*& +479-*.7'144)>85*(9&(1*8.9.8 34<'*.3,*=(&;&9*)<.9-9-* .39*394+(4251*9*7*8947&9.43 "-*&3(.*39citadel43(*9-* 14(&9.434+&3541149*251* <&87*':.19):7.3,9-* 9- (*39:7>'>9-*#*3*9.&38&3) >?&39.3*8 9<&89-*3(*)*) '> 25*747&3:*1&1&.4 1F,48949-**34*8*&9*11:?. (1&3.3<-4*31&7,*) &3)4((:5.*).9:39.1 *(>(1*)&3(.*392&8437>.8 (4385.(:4:8&99-*84:9-,&9* <&> >9-*1&9* 9-(*39:7> 8:'89&39.&1<&1184+247* 9-&302 2.1*88:7 74:3)*)9-*(.9>9-*8*(9.438

0 kilometres 0 miles

5 3

'>9-*8*&-&;.3,'**324891> <7*(0*)439-*47)*784+ ;.(947.4:8'*8.*,*78.3 &3) 4:3)&9.4384+&Temple to Athena Poliouchos&9743*88 4+9-*.9>)&9*)949-**&71> 9-(*39:7>&7*/:89'*14< 9-*&(74541.88:22.92&88.;* 7*9&.3.3,<&1188:554799-*8.9* 9*77&(* (&;.9>-*<3.39-* 74(0>4:9(745'*>43)8*7;*)

The Gate of Parmenon in the south wall of Ancient Thásos

&8&shrine to Pan.39-* 7) (*39:7> -*.8)*5.(9*).3 +&.397*1.*+51&>.3,-.85.5*8 *-.3)9-*8:22.954.39& 89**5 9-(*39:7> 89&.7<&> )*8(*3)8949-*Gate of Parmenon.39-*(.9><&11 "-*,&9*7*9&.38.981.39*1&3) 9&0*8.983&2*+742&3.3 8(7.59.43@&72*343&)**A )*349.3,.982&84343& 3*&7'><&1181&'

Columns of the agora, with the town church in the background

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Boats in the peaceful harbour of Skála Potamiás

9 km (6 miles) S of Thásos town. 1,000. daily. Loutrá 12 km (7 miles) S; Chrysí Ammoudiá 5 km (3 miles) E.

1*<*52?.5B<:>*;.*7-6*7B 8/2=< =1,.7=>;B18><.<1*?. +..79;.<.;?.-8;;.<=8;.-

29 km (18 miles) S of Thásos town. Astrís 12 km (7 miles) W.

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
./8;.12<-.*=1=1.*;=2<=+. :>.*=1.-68<=8/12<@8;4<=8 =1.;..4<=*=.*7-=1.B*;. 78@87-2<95*B*==1.<6*55 Vágis Museum<2=>*=.-27=1. ?255*0.,.7=;.2<@8;41*< *6B=12,-;.*6524.:>*52=B =1.68<=,869.55270<,>59=>;.< *;.;.9;.<.7=*=287<8/+2;-< /2<1=>;=5.<*7-018<=5B/*,.< @12,11.,*;?.-87=8 +8>5-.;<8;<6*55.;<=87.<

*6.-*/=.;=1.9.;.772*5;2?.; 27=1.?*55.B+.127-"8=*62G2< *<6*55?255*0.@2=187.8/=1. 68<=989>5*;9*=1<5.*-270=8 =1. 6 /=<>662= 8/8>7=955-8C.;=;*,4<>9<=;.*6 Tel 25930 61400. Tue–Sun. +;270=8=1.=;*251.*- /8;=1.*<,.7= Environs @12,12<* *7B?2<2=8;<<=*B 18>;.A,>;<287 *7-.738B=1. *5=18>01=1.9*=1 =;*-2=287*5;..4 2<@*B6*;4.-+B /88-*=Skála =1.;..45927. Potamiás46 5>+2=2<27988; ,87-2=287 625.<.*<=8/ %1.<,>59=8;*7- "8=*62G=18>01 9*27=.;"85L078=8< Panagiá 46 'G02< E 625.78;=12<=1. @*<*7*=2?.8/=1. 68<=?2<2=.-8/=1. =8@7*5=18>011. 275*7-?255*0.<=2< .620;*=.-=86.;2,* Blue-washed house <>9.;+5B<2=>*=.- in Panagiá *=*7.*;5B*0. *+8?.*<*7-B+*B For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp307–9 and pp333–4

Moní Archangélou Michaïl, perched on its clifftop

34 km (21 miles) S of Thásos town. Tel 25930 31500. daily.

!?.;1*70270=1.<.*46 625.<@.<=8/5B4I87I ;,1*70H58>2,1*J5@*<

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Slate-roofed house with characteristically large chimney pots, Theológos

50 km (31 miles) S of Thásos town. 900. daily. Potós 10 km (6 miles) SW.

(.55275*7-<.,>;./;86 *==*,4+B92;*=.<%1.85K08< @*<=1.!==86*7.;*,*92=*5 8/%1G<8<%2.;.-18><.<<=255 .A12+2==1.2;=B92,*55B5*;0. ,1267.B<*7-<5*=.;88/< .7.;8><0*;-.7<*7- ,8>;=B*;-<02?.=1.?255*0.* 0;..7*7-89.7*<9.,= ;>27.-=8@.;*7-58@@*55< 87=1.1255<2-.8998<2=.*;. .?2-.7,.8/%1.85K08<< 8;2027*5 =1,.7=>;B/8>7 -*=287+B;..4;./>0..< /;8687<=*7=27895.

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=;..<@*=.;.-+B*=;295. /8>7=*27=1.=*+5.<8/*<6*55 =*?.;7*/255=1.;.5*A.- +*5,87B524.<:>*;.%1.;>27 *+8?.=1.,1>;,1@*<* 58-0./8;.;6*7627.;< @18<..A958;*=8;B<1*/=<<=255 B*@787=1.;2-0.8998<2=.

23 km (14 miles) SW of Thásos town. 12 Skála Sotíra 3 km (2 miles) E.

45 km (28 miles) SW of Thásos town. 6. Tripití 13 km (8 miles) W of Limenária.

Traditional stone houses with

*,270=1.<>7<.=$8=I;*<1*< timber balconies, Megálo Kazavíti =1.68<=*55>;270<2=.8/*55=1. 275*7-?255*0.927=1.68>7=*27< @181*?.6*-.=1.2;186.< 22 km (14 miles) SW of Thásos town. =1.?255*0.8/G<=;8@*<.?.7 1.;.&7-.;020*7=2,95*7. 1,650. daily. Néos Prínos 6 km (4 miles) NE.

Taverna overhung by plane trees in Sotíras village

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Chóra

@05. 24403,: ,(:;6-(4(90I;0::( ;/,4(05769;6-;/, 2,700. Kamariótissa. 0:3(5+/I9(0:;/, Pachiá Ammos 15 km (9 miles) *(70;(36-$(46;/9F20 SW of Kamariótissa. %/,;6>5(346:;-033: &0;/=09;<(33@563,=,3;,99(05 (705,-3,*2,+/6336> ,?*,7;-69;/,>,:;,95*(7, >/0*/9,5+,9:0;05 =0:0)3,-964;/,:,( $(46;/9F200::@565@46<: >0;/;/,)<326-6<5; &0;/0;:3()@905;/05, )(A((9(5+*6))3,+ ,5.F90 5;/,965A,., ;/,0:3(5+>(:6**<70,+)@ :;9,,;:;/9,(+05.7(:; :,;;3,9:-964%/9(*, %/,09 :;<9+@;03,966-,+ 9,30.0656-;/,9,(;6+: /6<:,:/I9(0:;/, >(:05*69769(;,+05;6;/, 46:;/(5+:64, *<3;<9,6-;/,9,,2*63650:;: =033(.,65;/,0:3(5+ 05(5+:<9=0=,+<5+,9 )96(+*,5;9(3 The town of Chóra with the remains of its #64(57(;965(.,<5;03;/, :8<(9,>0;/;>6 ;/*,5;<9@ %/,9(>5,:: ;(=,95(:796=0+,:(5 Genoese castle in the background 6-;/,>,(;/,9:,,4:;6.6 ,3,.(5;=(5;(.,7605; /(5+05/(5+>0;/;/,)966+ 366205.6<;;6:,(),@65+;/, >(@9,4(05:;/6<./469, 05.3(5+:*(7,4(205.0;,(:@ ,56,:, castle +(7;,+-964 :<):;(5;0(3-69;0-0*(;065:*(5 ;6:,,/6>),30,-05;/,9,(; (5,(930,9@A(5;05,-69;30;;3, ),-6<5++6>5/033(;/I9(: 6;/,9;/(5;/,*(:;3,:.(;, 6+:,5+<9,+ 79,+,*,::69Palaiópoli/,9,

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

$(#%*('! * !%!*&(.& $&* (/"!&% &(** &+%*!%*-) !)&,(.* (% !% %!) %&-&%!)'#.!%* &+,((!) The stoa0:4 -;365.(5+ +(;,:;6;/,,(93@ 9+*,5;<9@ Hall for votive offerings

The theatre/,3+

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 6 km (4 miles) NE of Kamariótissa. to Palaiópoli. Site & Museum Tel 25510 41474. 8:30am– 3pm (site till 8:30pm May–Sep) Tue–Sun. main public hols.

!)+!#!%-)- ( 4@,:0:* !()*)*& !%!*!*!&%!%*&* +#**&&" '# !)!%,&#,&%** -!* * 2()090$!*. '(!&(!%!*!*)

The Temenos

0:(9,*;(5.<3(9 :7(*,>/,9, -,(:;:>,9, 796)()3@/,3+ Small theatre

The Propylon Museum

465<4,5;(3.(;, >(:+,+0*(;,+)@ ";63,4@ 6-.@7; 05

DEITIES AND MYSTERIES OF SAMOTHRAKI &/,5 $(46;/9F20>(:*63650A,+)@9,,2:05;/, :,;;3,9:*64)05,+3(;,9!3@470(5+,0;0,:>0;/;/6:,;/,@ -6<5+/,9,%/,7905*07(3+,0;@6-%/9(*,>(:?0,96:;/, 9,(;6;/,9(5,(9;/.6++,::>/64;/,9,,2:0+,5;0-0,+ >0;/,4,;,97/96+0;,(5+,2(;,,9*65:69;>(:;/, -,9;030;@.6+(+4036:(5+;/,09;>056--:7905.>,9,;/, "!(!C($,40;0*>69+4,(505.B9,(;!5,:D>/0*/:665 *(4,;64,(5;/,,5;09,+0=05,-(403@ %/,:,;>6+,0;0,:>,9,3(;,99,*6.50A,+ (:;/,!&)"&+(!(:;69(5+"633/6:,,4)3,4:>,9,:5(2,:(5+( :;(9%/,*<3;>(:67,5;6(33*64,9: 6-(5@(.,69.,5+,9-9,,69:3(=, 9,,269)(9)(90(5,;(03:6-;/, 4@:;,90,:(9,<5256>5(:(+/,9,5;: /656<9,+(=6> 6-:03,5*, The twin kabiri, Castor and Pollux

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Λ#μνο

12,000. 22 km (14 miles)

NE of Mýrina. Mýrina. $0-5A<0747/1+)44)6,16/84)+-7.-80)1;<7;<0 Plateía Kída, Mýrina. Town /7,7.5-<)4?7:316/+);<7=<7. 4A587;*A(-=; Hall, on the waterfront Mýrina E567;1;)88:78:1)<-4A>74+)61+<0-4)>);714+:=5*4-; (22540 22996). 15 Aug. 16<7*:7),*-)+0-;)6,/:7?;-@+-44-6-*--6;-6<<7 )6,<0-$=:3;=6,-:?0751<8:7;8-:-,);)<:),16/ <0-6;07?->-: ;<)<176$0-:--35141<):A;<144+76<:74;5=+07. 4-)>16/ <0-1;4)6,*=<7<0-:?1;-1<1;0):,<7 )+744-+<176 Pláka 15)/16-)57:-8-)+-.=484)+- ,7516)<-,*A

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp307–9 and pp333–4

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The volcanic landscape of Límnos, viewed from the village of Kontiás

Around the Island

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Looking down on the remains of a Roman theatre, Ifaisteía

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 90,000. 8 km (5 miles) S of Mytilíni. Pávlou Kountourióti, Mytilíni. Mytilíni (around island). Mytilíni (22510 42512, [email protected]). Panigýri at Agiásos: 15 Aug.

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Tsónia

Lepétymnos

968 m 3,176 ft

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Agiásos

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968 m 3,176 ft

Melínta

Agios Ermogénis

Charamída

Plomári

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STAR SIGHTS

Mólyvos Mytilíni

Oinoússes & Chíos

Agios Isídoros

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Μυτιλ#νη

6+,95@;03E50/(:(::<4,+ )6;/;/,5(4,(5+:0;,6-;/, (5*0,5;;6>5;:;(5+:65(:367, +,:*,5+05.;6(50:;/4<:)9(*2 ,;,+)@(7(096-/(9)6<9:5 Ottoman inscription ,?(405(;0656-946H9,=,(3:;/, above the castle gate /,(9;6-(30=,3@)(A((9;::6<;/ ,5+0:/64,;6(-0:/4(92,;:,3305.:7,*0,:9(9,3@:,,5 ,3:,>/,9,>/03,(;;/,569;/,5+;/,966-3,:::/,336- ;/, ,5E %A(4E4(92:;/,,+.,6-;/,-694,9%<920:/ 8<(9;,9%/, %<92:9<3,+-964 ;6 (5+ !;;64(5/6<:,::;033305,;/,5(996>3(5,:),;>,,5 946H(5+;/,*(:;3,90:,%/,:03/6<,;;,:6-:<*/ 0$#%)*/<9*/,:(:.060 %/,G+6960(5+.06: %/,9C76570,9*,;/,;03,966-,+:2@305,

30,000. 8 km (5 miles) S.

Pávlou Kountourióti. Aristárchou 6 (22510 42512). Agios Ermogénis 12 km (7 miles) S; Charamída 14 km (9 miles) S. 15 Jul–15 Aug.

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The dome of Agios Therápon

Kástro Tel 22510 27970. Tue–Sun.

main public hols.

Byzantine Museum Agios Therápon. Tel 22510 28916. mid-May–mid-Oct: Mon–Sat.

Mikrás Asías, Vareiá. Tel 22510 41644. Tue–Sun. main public hols.

Tériade Museum Vareiá. Tel 22510 23372. daily.

main public hols.

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42 km (26 miles) SW of Mytilíni. 3,600. Mon–Sat. Agios Isídoros, 3 km (2 miles) NE; Melínta, 6 km (4 miles) NW.

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28 km (17 miles) W of Mytilíni. 3,500. Mon–Sat. Vaterá, 31 km (19 miles) S.

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Plomári, viewed from the extended jetty For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp307–9 and pp333–4

OUZO ;@5/9:.+8++1<+89/54 5,'96/8/:,5;4*:.85;-.5;: :.++*/:+88'4+'4#.+ 8+9/*;+5,-8'6+91/492+,: 5<+8,853=/4+68+99/4-/9 (5/2+*/4')566+89:/22:5 3'1+'*/9:/22':+58/-/4'22? )'22+*8'1/#.+:+835;@5 3'?*+8/<+,853:.+:'2/'4 ;9+*:52'(+2 +'82?9./63+4:92+'

36 km (22 miles) NW of Mytilíni. 1,500. Mon–Sat. Tsónia, 12 km (7 miles) N.

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Fishing boats at Mólyvos harbour with the castle in the background

8'4-+5,9/@+9'4*)525;89,853 -/'4: 52/<+5/2)54 :'/4+89:593'22+8 )+8'3/)=':+80;-9

65+:'4*:.+9/:+5,:.+-8'<+ 5, '2'3+*+9:.+).'/'4 ='88/58(;8/+*(?)./22+9 ))58*/4-:52+-+4*)./22+9 (+9/+-+*:.+)/:?;4:/2:.+ 1/4-9*';-.:+8,+22/425<+ =/:../3'4*56+4+*:.+ -':+9B:.5;-..+1/22+*.+8 46 km (29 miles) NW of Mytilíni. ,58.+8:8+').+8?#.+8+/9 300. Mon–Sat. Kágia 2/::2+2+,:5,:.+'4)/+4::5=4 4 km (2 miles) E; Skála Sykaminiás, '6'8:,853:.+:53(9+>)' 2 km (1 mile) N. <':+*4+'8:.+:5;8/9:5,,/)+ 2'41+*(?'*++6<'22+?'4* (;:/:9'4)/+4:4'3+ 5<+82551/4-:.+9:8'/:9:5:.+ F:.?34'.'9(++48+
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Colourfully restored Ottoman-style houses in Mólyvos

Tiered stone houses rising above the picturesque harbour of Mólyvos

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76 km (47 miles) NW of Mytilíni. 1,410. daily. Kámpos 4 km (2.5 miles) S.

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40 km (25 miles) NW of Mytilíni. 1,600. Mon–Sat. Skála Kallonís 2 km (1 mile) S.

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Frescoes adorning the narthex of Moní Perivolís

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp307-9 and pp333-4

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62 km (39 miles) NW of Mytilíni. Tel 22530 56259. daily.

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The peaceful harbour of Sígri

89 km (55 miles) W of Mytilíni town. 1,500.

Triple bell tower of Moní Ypsiloú

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93 km (58 miles) NW of Mytilíni. 400.

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Shopfront in Chíos town bazaar

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Mastic Villages

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KEY For key to map see back flap

Mestá Ol´ympoi

Sámos Piraeus

Armólia Pyrgí

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SIGHTS AT A GLANCE

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp307–9 and pp333–4

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 45,000. 4 km (2 miles) S of Chíos town.

Chíos town. Chíos town (22710 44389).

=1. 8;*H<52+;*;B<2=>*=.-87 =1.0;8>7-/588;,87<2<=<8/* 7>6+.;8/+884<*7-6*7> <,;29=<+.:>.*=1.-+B=1. ,>5=>;*5;.?85>=287*;B*7- 27=.55.,=>*5 -*6E7=28< 8;*H< D =1.<.27,5>-. @8;4<02?.7+B *985.87 Environs

Chíos town waterfront with the dome and minaret of the Mecidiye Mosque

!==86*7,.6.=.;B,*7+. /8>7- %1.5*==.;,87=*27< =1.0;*?.*7-1.*-<=87.8/ -62;*5 *;* 52@18,86 6*7-.-=1.6*<<*,;.8/

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Byzantine Museum Plateía Vounakíou. Tel 22710 26866.

for renovation until 2007.

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Porta Maggiora, the southwesterly entrance to the kástro

Justiniani Museum Kástro. Tel 22710 22819. Tue–Sun. main public hols.

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Agios Geórgios Sykoúsis

•

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•

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MAIN MASTIC VILLAGES

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 28 km (17 miles) SW of Chíos town. Pyrgí: 1,200; Mestá: 400; Olýmpoi: 350. Mestá. Mávra Vólia & Kómi 5 km (3 miles) SE of Pyrgí.

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STAR FEATURES

Anástasis Christ Washing the Disciples’ Feet

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp307–9 and pp333–4

St Joachim mosaic

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 11 km (7 miles) W of Chíos town. Tel 22710 79391. Apr– Oct: 7am–noon, 4–7pm daily; Nov–Mar: 7am–noon, 4–6pm daily. limited.

St Mark the Evangelist mosaic

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Cabinet containing the skulls of the Chian martyrs of 1822

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-.,*-.;;1.44;7/17=;.;+4.6- 26<7<1.8*42;*-.76?12,1<1.A 8.:,17>.:47732607,,*;276 20 km (12 miles) W of Chíos town. *44A<.6-.-82;<*,1277:,1*:-; 15. Elínta 7 km (4 miles) W. %1.>244*0.?*;<1.;,.6.7/* %12;2;<1.,47;.;<;.<<4.5.6< 8*:<2,=4*:4A<:*=5*<2,26,2-.6< <7 F*76G " -=:260<1.*<:7,2<2.;7/

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One of the many restored stone houses of Avgónyma

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47;.<7<1.>244*0.7/Agio Gála 35 524.;67:<1 ?.;<7/'742;;H;.:66.*: <1.<787/*,42//%1.;5*44.: 126-57;<,1*8.42;<1.57:. 26<.:.;<2607/<1..+7*;<;*626<:2,*<.,*:>.- #7:*4<*:;,:..6027 E4*,*6+.:.*,1.-+A+=; /:75'742;;H;*6-*-52;;276 <7<1.,1=:,1.;;17=4-+. 5*-.>2*<1.:.;2-.6
The largely deserted town of Anávatos with the few inhabited dwellings in the foreground For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp307–9 and pp333–4

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35 km (22 miles) NW of Chíos town. Tel 22740 21230. to Volissós. daily (ask for key at first house in Diefha village).

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The remains of a Hellenistic tower near Fanári, Ikaría

-=:260<1. <1,.6<=:A<7 0=*:-*8*;;76<1.:7*-<7 !267.%1.764A7<1.:?.44 8:.;.:>.-/7:<2/2,*<2762;* 9,000. Agios Kýrikos. :-,.6<=:AHellenistic 22750 22202. Fanári 16 km tower (Drakánou)76,.*6 (10 miles) NE of Agios Kírykos. *6,2.6<4201<17=;.6.*:*6E:2 A260 35 524.; %26A Armenistís?2<12<; ;7=<17/1G7;3*:G*2; ;=::7=6-260/7:.;<;*6-/26. 6*5.-*/<.:<1.3*:7;7/4.0 +.*,1.;;=,1*;2>E-2*6- .6-?17/4.?<776.*:<1.;=6 .;;*3:78H47;:<.52; 12;?*@+26-260;5.4<.- 26,*:6*<.-*;<1.8*<:76.;;7/ Agios Kírykos<1.,*82<*4 +=44;42. 35 524.;?.;< *6-5*2687:<2;*84.*;*6< 75.<7<1.57;<*,<2>./2;1 <7?6/4*63.-+A.4A<1*62<;;5*44;2B. >2;2<.-*-247;*>244*0.87:<76 *6-";24G557;+.*,1.; /.?524.;.*;<7/1G7;<7?6 <1.67:<1,7*;<42.;<1. >244*0.7/Kámpos< 2;-.,.8<2>.4A1=5+4./7:2< +7*;<;*+:7*-;*6-A 2;<1.?.*4<12.;<<.::2<7:A26 +.*,1*6-+.;2-.<1. :..,.77-+.*,1.;,*6 +./7=6-<7.2<1.:;2-.7/<1. :=26;7/* <1,.6<=:A 87:<*6-26<1.67:<1?.;<7/ ,1=:,1<1.:.5*26;7/* <1.2;4*6-2;<1.>*60.42;57I AB*6<26.5*67:17=;. ,76>.6<.6-7?.-+A<1. ,*6+.;..6%1.+=24-260 :.,*44;*<25.?1.6<1. "*<.:*;/*524A 2;4*6-?*;,76;2-.:.-* =,17/Psará 35 1=5*6.84*,.7/.@24. 524.;<7<1.?.;<?*; /7:-2;0:*,.-67+4.5.6 :=26.-26<1.:..3(*:7/ <1.:.?*;*4*:0.;.<<4. 6-.8.6-.6,." *;*:.;=4<<1.;2604.<7?6 5.6<7/;=,17//2,2*4;26 +=24<26*8*;<2,1.7/2;4*6- E587;;5*445=;.=5 ,76<*26;*:<2/*,<;/:75<1. *:,12<.,<=:*4;.7;7G32 26/.:<24.<17=01<1.:.*:. >244*0. 35524.;26 077-+.*,1.;<7>2;2<.*;<7/ <1.1*:+7=:*6-76G7G52;2; 4*6-<1.AB*6<26.,*;<4. Coastal town of Agios Kírykos, the capital of Ikaría <2;%1.7

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

32,000. 4 km (2 miles) W of Pythagóreio. Vathý, Karlóvasi, Pythagóreio. Vathý (22730 28582). Wine Festival: August; Fishermen’s Festival, Pythagóreio: June or July.

%.==5.-.*;5B8@270=82=<7*=>;*5;2,17.<<*7-.*<.8/ *,,.<;B*7-.738B.-*085-.7*0.>7-.; =1.;>5.8/#85B4;*=.< D

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5,700. Ioánnou Lekáti. 25 Martíou 4 (22730 28582). daily. Psilí Ammos 8 km (5 miles) SE; Mykáli 6 km (4 miles) S.

&18>01=1.85-?255*0.8/ 78(*=1J.A2<=.-27=1. < =8-*B<=8@72<;.,.7==1.1*; +8>;:>*;=.;0;.@>9875B*/=.; @1.7=1.=8@7+.,*6. =1.,*92=*58/=1.2<5*7-><= 5*;0..78>01=89;8?2-.*55 *6.72=2.<272=<+*C**;58@.; (*=1J,*=.;<=8=8>;2<=<@125. ,8++5.5*7.-78(*=1J,*;;2.< 878+52?28><=8=1.,866.;,. 27=1.<=;..=<+.58@ &1. %E68< Archaeological Museum,87=*27<*;=2/*,=< /;86=1..A,*?*=287<*==1. .;*287<*7,=>*;B .,*><.8/=1./*;/5>708;2027< 8/=1.9250;26<@18?2<2=.-=1. <1;27.=1.,855.,=2878/<6*55 ?8=2?.8//.;270<2<87.8/=1. ;2,1.<=27;..,.D*6870 =1.6*;.*+;87C.<=*=>.==.8/ *7';*;=2*708-<; 27.<*7-*72?8;B6272*=>;.8/

Fishermen at Vathý harbour

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE /9*5H7.28";B06* .;*287 *;5I?*<2 844E;2 87H .0E52<#*7*0H*< 8>7= .;4.=G/< #B=1*0I;.28 (*=1J

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Chíos

Metamórfosis

Ikaría, Foúrnoi

Archaeological Museum Kapetán Gymnasiárchou Katevéni. Tel 22730 27469. Tue–Sun.

main public hols.

Agios Konstantínos Agathonísi • Lemonákia Tsamadoú Manolátes • Karlóvasi Vourliótes Kokkári Mount Ampelos

Moní Theotókou • Mount Kerketéfs

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Potámi

Assyrian bronaze horse figurine, Vathý Archaeological Museum

Moní Evangelistrías

Marathókampos

Votsalákia Limniónas

VATHY

1,150 m 3,775 ft

Moní Panagías Spilianís Potokáki

Moní Megális Panagías

Efpalíneio Orygma

Mykáli

Psilí Ammos Pythagóreio

Heraion KEY For key to map see back flap For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp307–9 and pp333–4

Agathonísi Foúrnoi

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%E68<1*<*9*?.-;8*-*;8>7-=1.2<5*7-+>=+><.<*;. /;.:>.7=875B[email protected]#B=1*0I;.28*7-*;5I?*<2?2* (*=1J(.12,5.12;.2<.*016*7B9827=<,*7+. ;.*,1.-875B+B3..98;/88=7=1.<8>=1*7-@.<==1.;. *;.6*7B;8>01-2;=;8*-<@1.;.,*>=2872<7.,.<<*;B

15 km (9 miles) SW of Vathý. Tel 22730 61400. Tue–Sun.

main public hols.

/9*5H7.28";B06*>9*5278<< =>77.52<* 6 /= *:>.->,=;*74270*<87.8/ =1.9;.62.;.7027..;270/.*=< 8/=1.*7,2.7=@8;5-.<207.- +B=1..7027..;>9*5278<*7- +>25=+B1>7-;.-<8/<5*?.< [email protected] *7- =1. =>77.50>*;*7=..-*7,2.7= %E68<*@*=.;<>995B27=26.< 8/<2.0.*7-;.6*27.-27><. >7=25=12<,.7=>;B>9*5278<< <>;?.B270@*<<8*,,>;*=.=1*= @1.7=1.@8;4,;.@<6.= 1*?270+.0>7/;868998<2=. <2-.<8/=1.68>7=*27=1.2; ?.;=2,*5.;;8;@*<725 (2<2=8;<6*B@*54*5870=1. 5.-0.><.-=8;.68?.;>++5. /;86=1.,1*77.5/*;+.58@ *5/=1.=8=*55.70=12<89.7=8 =1.9>+52,@2=10;255.<=89;8 =.,=B8>/;86=1.@8;<=-;89<

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27 km (17 miles) W of Vathý. May–Oct: daily.

8>7-.-27 +B!H58<*7- 287J<28<=@81.;62=;?2?270 Roman Baths<=255@2=1*/.@ /;.<,8.;=1.;@.<= ,.7=;*5,1>;,12<8;2.7=*=.- -2*087*55B@2=127=1.<:>*;. =1. 8;B<<* *B5>A>;B,86 95.A<=*7-<*+8?.=1.<25=.-27 ,8698>7-8/,.55<78@;.< =8;.-9;8+*+5B+>25=-2;.,=5B *;.*8/=1.;,1*2,1*;+8>; *55=1*=;.6*27<2<5B/E-*5*4. *+8?.*=.695.8/;=.62< ,;8<<.-+B*,*><.@*B @12,12=;.95*,.-%*-5B=1. *;.*@*<;*?*0.-+B/2;.27 Roman Baths <18;=5B*/=.;=1.5*<=6874 W of Pythagóreio. Tel 22730 61400. -2.-(2<2=27018>;<-.9.7- variable. 87=1.@1268/=1.,*;.=*4.;

13 km (8 miles) SW of Vathý. 1,500. Lykoúrgou Logothéti (22730 61389). Potokáki 3 km (2 miles) W.

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Fresco of Jesus washing the apostles’ feet, Moní Megális Panagías

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The single remaining column of Polykrates’ temple, Heraion

21 km (13 miles) SW of Vathý. Tel 22730 95277. Iraío. Tue–Sun. main public hols.

.-:<141)47.A+-6)-)6 +74761;<;

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=6,-:);)+:-,7;1-:?1447? <07=/0764A-:)0-:;-4.0), <:--76<0-*)63;7.<0- );)+:1.1+1)4)4<):!14/:15; 5>:);7;)6,+-4-*:)<-,0-: +7=4,)88:7)+0.:75<0-)6 6=8<1)4;?1<0(-=;)576/<0- +1-6<+)81<)4)476/) 5 7;1-:;0-:-16<0-,)6/-:7=; .< #)+:-,&)A 8:- 4A581)6,)A;?0-6 -;81<-,141/-6< <0 +-6<=:A -:5)6-@+)>)<176; :767;;<144:=4-, 5=+07.<0-;)6+<=):A1;+76 5.<476/<-584- *=14<16<0-<0+-6<=:A?); .=;16/ AB)6<16-)6,5-,1 :-84)+-,16<0-<0+-6<=:A ->)45);76;:-57>-,:-),A +=<;<76-.7::-=;-16<0-1: *A);<76-76-7.<0-761+ *=14,16/;4-)>16/764A76- 7:,-:84)66-,*A"07137;) 47+)4):+01<-+< ?16/<7-):<0 +74=56=6<7=+0-,):4A16 9=)3-;7:),-;1/6.)=4<<01; <0- <0+-6<=:A0:1;<1)6 5);76;*=14<)*);141+),-,1 +744)8;-,,=:16/<0-:-1/67. +)<-,<7)6-?57<0-:.1/=:- !74A3:)<-;?077:,-:-,) <0-%1:/16):A<;.7=6,)<176; /:)6,:-84)+-5-6<,-;1/6-, 41--);<7.<0-:-)<$-584- *A"07137;;;76$0-7,7:7; -*-/)6<0-6-?<-584-16

5 .
=14,16/+76<16=-,7..)6,76 10 km (6 miles) W of Vathý. 1,000. .7:5)6A+-6<=:1-;*=<<0->);< Agíou Nikoláou (22730 ;<:=+<=:-?);6->-:+75 92333). Tsamadoú & Lemonákia 2 84-<-, $0-16<-:17:.=447. km (1 mile) W. >7<1>-7..-:16/;?);,-;+:1*-, *A>1;1<7:;161<;0-A,)A);) =14<76)6,*-016,-:1<)*4-):
,)<- +=4<1>)<-,2=;<164)6, .:75<0-<0<7<0- $7,)A1<1;<0-1;4)6,; <01:,:-;7:<).<-: <0+-6<=:1-; !A<0)/G:-17)6, ?0-6<0-;)6+ <=):A?);)<<0- %)<0H?1<01<;?16, 0-1/0<7.1<; *47?647+)<176 8:-;<1/-$0-8:- <=:6-,<7),>)6<)/- +16+-:)4<-584-; Plinth from Polykrates’ <7?6;
THE CULT OF HERA -:)?);?7:;0188-,);<0-5)16+=4<7. )6=5*-:7.:--3+1<1-;16+4=,16/:/7; 76<0-5)164)6,)6,)4?)A;)<7=<7.<7?6 ;)6+<=):1-; -.7:-<0- ;<5144-661=5 ;0-?);>-6-:)<-,16<0-.7:57.);1584- ?77,-6*7):,?01+0?);4)<-:)=/5-6<-,

Hera, led by peacocks, and depicted on Samian coins

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

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp307–9 and pp333–4

#

#

The beach and harbour of Kokkári, flanked by its twin headlands

).<-: #C7;76#)57<0:C31 6 )61;4)6,7<0-:?1;-+7587;-, 7.;577<0;-,15-6<):A:7+3 <0-8):<4A>74+)61+57=6<)16 1;)6)675)4A?1<02)//-, :7+3;)6,*7<<754-;;+0);5; -:3--;7+<=:6)4/47?16/; )<<0-+)>-57=<0;?-:-16<-: 8:-<-,*A;)147:;);<0-;81:1<; 7.,-8):<-,;)16<;7:<0-)=:) 7.;75-074A1+76)?)1<16/,1; +7>-:A$7,)A)44-A 76<0-67:<0-);<;1,- -;81<-:-+-6<.7:-;<.1:-; Marathókampos. Votsalákia, 2 km )6,<0-8)>16/7.):7),<7 :-57<->144)/-;?-;<7.<0- (1 mile) S of Marathókampos; ;=551<7=6<-:3-- 7. #C57; 5 .< 7=6< -:3-
01/0-;<8-)316<0--/-)6

<=+3-,16<7)?77,-,:)>16- ;=:.*)<<-:-,*=<<0-8)>-, 9=)A)6,1<;?)<-:;1,-<)>-:6); 7>-:4773-,*A<0-4)6,5):3 0144<78+0=:+07.Agía Triáda ):-<0-*=;A.7+=;7.61/0<41.- <0-764A;<:=+<=:-1667 >1;1*4-.:75<0-;-) Environs $07=/05)6A7.#C57;;0144 >144)/-;):-*-+7516/,-;-:<-, Environs Vourliótes1;)6-@+-8<176 607=:;?)43.:7567 <0:1>16/<0)63;<71<;7:+0):,; ):4G>);1164)6,.:75 )6,>16-A):,;$0-81+<=:-;9=- !7)4;-<<4-5-6< 57;<*-)=<1.=476<0-1;4)6, <;57;<;=*;<)6<1)4<:)+-; ?1<07=<,77:;-)<16/)<1<;.7=: 16+4=,-<0- <0+-6<=:A <)>-:6);%7=:41G<-;1;;1<=)<-, +0=:+07.Metamórfosis )<)5)27:2=6+<17616<0-):-); <0-74,-;<76<0-1;4)6, 6-- +75-=8.:75733C:1,- ;+-6,<7/17;76;<)6<E67; )6,+415*<7)674C<-;?01+0 1;<0-<:)140-),.7:<0-);+-6< 7.7=6<58-47;).1>- 07=::7=6,<:18 50 km (31 miles) W of Vathý. to

33 km (20 miles) NW of Vathý. 5,000. Potámi 2 km (1 mile) W.

#8:)?416/,75-;<1+):4G>);1 /)<-?)A<7?-;<-:6#C57; )6,<0-1;4)6,;;-+76,<7?6 ,1>1,-;16<7.7=:;-8):)<-,1; <:1+<;D7):4G>);1;-:>-,); )5)27:4-)<0-:8:7,=+<176 +-6<:-*-);176 )0144)+:7;;<0-:1>-:1;57:- )<<:)+<1>-*=<57;<>1;1<7:; ;<)A)<<0-0):*7=:7.15E6 ?1<01<;<)>-:6);)6,41>-4A *7)-<0-87:< 677:!)4)1G):4G>);11;

Mount Kerketéfs, seen from the island of Ikaría

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One monk’s method of travelling around on the holy island of Pátmos

A façade on the waterfront of Sými town’s harbour

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ISLANDS AT A GLANCE 3490<,!)! (<,+) <,9-./3 <20!4(/3 !34%,,?2):/ /3 =2/3 )03> >392/3 <4-/3 @-) >,/3

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"SLÈTB !RMÈTHIA The domed entrance to the New Market in Rhodes town

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For additional map symbols see back flap

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An aerial view of Sými town with its Neo-Classical houses 3IPEFT 5SJÈOEB ,PTLJOPÞ

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56>5(:;/,,9<:(3,46-;/,,.,(5 B;46::9,30.6<::0.50-0*(5*,+(;,:-964 Lámpi ";6/5:(990=(305 (5+;/, -6<5+05.6-;/,65(:;,9@6-"; 3 Christós / 6/5 05 Livádi Kalogíron Kámpos 65(:;0**65;963+,*305,+(:;/, Vagiá 4 Kámpos 0:3(5+,9:.9,>90*/;/96<./:/07 Léfkes ! beach )<03+05.(5+;9(+,(5+05 ;/, 3(@4,5(5+4652:+0=0+,+;/,3(5+ #6+(@ B;46:;90,:;64(05;(050;:,3-(:( Agathonísi *,5;9,-69)6;/703.904:(5+;6<90:;: Melói

0

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Lipsí

Piraeus,

Léros ,990,:@(*/;:(5+*9<0:, Sámos, SKALA :/07:+6*2(;"2B3(;/, M´ykonos, Holy Cave of 0:3(5+:769;(5+4(05 Astypálaia Kastélli the Apocalypse ;6>5>/0*/:;9,;*/,: Monastery of St John (96<5+(>0+,:/,3;,9,+ Chóra Gríkos )(@ :;/,9,(9,4(5@ ,?*3<:0=,.0-;:/67:(5+ TRAGONISI )6<;08<,: "2B3(/(:( :4(9;<74(92,;-,,3 Diakófti #/,9,(9,:,=,9(3;9(=,3 (5+:/07705.(.,5*0,: Mount Prásino B Psilí Ammos Q KEY (365.;/,/(9)6<9-965; F 775 m ( "2B3(::6*0(330-,*,5;9,:65 For key to map see back flap FO 2,540 ft ;/,*(-C)(9(,6 PÞ QBT 3(::0*(3)<03+05.;/(;+6<)3,: 0 kilometres 2 (:(4,,;05.73(*,(5+ >(0;05.7605;-69-,990,:964 0 miles =0,>:;6"B46:(5+2(9D((9, 1 ;/,/(9)6<9-965;*(E8<,:(5+ (473,9,>(9+-69;/,365. :4(33*9<0:,)6(;:3,(=,+(03@ #/,9,4(05:05*3<+,( ;9,24(A,6->/0;,5(996> 3(5,:>0;/6=,9465(:;,9 -69;/,0:3(5+:4(05),(*/,: ,33,50:;0*>(33#/,30;;3, */(7,36-Agios Konstantínos 0,:(5+*/(7,3:/F9(0:( Environs 0:7,9*/,+65;/,:<440; .,46-@A(5;05,(9*/0;,* #/,:(5+@;6>5),(*/*(5.,; >/,9,;/,>65+,9-<3=0,>:(; ;<9,(5@6-;/,)<03+05.: =,9@*96>+,+#6;/,569;/ :<5:,;4(2,;/,/02,<7-964 /(=,+0:;05*;0=,>05+6> (96<5+;/,)(@30,:;/, C90*/(:(@>,33>69;/>/03, 46<3+05.:69 :/05.3@:/(+,+),(*/(;Melói +,*69(;,+>0;/(@A(5;05, #/,9,0:(5,?*,33,5;*(47:0;, Chóra *96::365.;/,;>0:;05. (5+;(=,95((5+;(?0)6(;: 964"2B3((563+*6))3,+ (33,@::64,+669>(@:3,(+ (3:69<5)(*2;6"2B3( )6=, 7(;/>(@3,(+:<7;6;/, 05;6=(:;:,(*(7;(05:4(5 "2B3(30,;/,9<05:6-;/, 65(:;,9@6-";6/5 :065:69 ;/(; (5*0,5;(*967630:(;Kastélli #/,7(569(40* >,9,)<03;;62,,74(9(<+05.

$

View of Skála from the Monastery of St John For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp309–12 and pp334–6

# "

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 3,500. Skála. Skála. Skála (22470 31666). Niptír at the Monastery of St John: Maundy Thu; Panagía at Kámpos: 15 Aug.

Stall owners selling souvenirs on the pathway to the Monastery of St John

),,5/6336>,+6<;;64(2, 9664:76::0)3@)@;/ *,5;<9@4652:690;*6<3+ /(=,),,5;/, ;/*,5;<9@ /,940;(.,4,5;065,+05;/, >90;05.:6-/90:;6+6<36: 5;/,:6<;/>,:;,95*6(:; 0:;/,0:3(5+:),:;),(*/Psilí Ammos>0;/0;::;9,;*/6- -05,:(5+(5+:>,,705.+<5,: ;0:;/,<56--0*0(35<+0:;),(*/ (5+0:(3:6767<3(9>0;/ *(47,9: *96::;/,)(@;/, !6*26-,56G7(:0:4(92,+ )@(9,+)<6@#/0:0:>/,9, (**69+05.;63,.,5+;/,,=03 4(.0*0(5,56G7(:*/(33,5.,+ ";6/5;6(+<,36-409(*3,: ,56G7(:73<5.,+05;6;/, :,(;6)905.)(*2,--0.0,:6- ;/,+,(+)<;6+;/,5;<95,+ /04;6:;65,(7,,56G7(: /(:(.96;;6;/(;0::(0+;6), >/,9,;/,>0A(9+30=,+ "0;<(;,+05;/,469,-,9;03, -(9405.9,.06505;/,569;/6- ;/,0:3(5+Kámpos),(*/ 9,(*/,+=0(;/,30;;3,/033=033(., 6-B476:0:(56;/,9767<3(9 ),(*/>0;/>(;,9:769;:(5+( -,>;(=,95(:964B476:( ;9(*23,(+:,(:;>(9+:;6;/, .66+7,))3,),(*/,:(;Vagiá, Geranoú(5+Livádi %05+@Lámpi65;/,569;/ *6(:;0:-(46<:-690;:*636<9,+ (5+4<3;07(;;,95,+7,))3,: #/,9,(9,;>6.(9+,5;(=,95(: (5+(30;;3,*/(7,3:,;)(*2 -964;/,9,,+),+:'6<*(5 >(32/,9,-964;/,/(43,;6- /90:;F:()6=,B476:

Holy Cave of the 709(;,:(;)(@6>5;/,7(;/ Apocalypse ;6"2B3(0:;/,*/<9*/6-Agía Between Skála and Chóra. Anna";,7:+,*2,+>0;/ Tel 22470 31234. daily. -36>,9:3,(++6>5-964;/,

Simantíris House 7(;/;6;/,*/<9*/ Chóra. daily. >/0*/0:+,+0*(;,+ ;6;/,46;/,96- Around the ;/,$09.05(9@ Island 5:0+,;/,*/<9*/0: B;46:/(::64, ;/,Holy Cave of the Apocalypse <5:7603,+),(*/,: >/,9,";6/5:(> (5+(9<..,+05;,9069 ;/,=0:0656--09, >0;/-,9;03,=(33,@: (5+)904:;65,(5+ ?*<9:065)6(;:9<5 +0*;(;,+;/,)662 ;646:;),(*/,:(5+ 6- ;6/0: )<:,:-964"2B3( +0:*073, 9F*/696: :,9=, B476: 5=0,>0:;/,96*2 9D26:(5+/F9( >/,9,;/,)6626- #/,0:3(5+:4(05 Votive offerings from >(: 9,:69;0:Gríkos:,; pilgrims to Pátmos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

Simantíris House 79,:,9=,+(:(632<:,<4 <03;05 )@.3(E5F: 6<:6+B20:(>,(3;/@4,9 */(5;0;:;033/(:;/,690.05(3 -<950:/05.:(5+*65;(05:6) 1,*;:-9646<:6+B20::;9(=,3: :<*/(:!<::0(5:(46=(9: ,(9)@;/,;9(58<03*65 =,5;6-Zoödóchou Pigís )<03;05 /(::64,-05, -9,:*6,:(5+0*65:(5+0::,; Holy Cave of the Apocalypse where St John lived and worked 057,(*,-<3.(9+,5:

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)& 5)$&/563:0/"45&3:0'50)/*40/& 0'5)&.045*.1035"/51-"$&40'8034)*1".0/( 35)0%09"/% &45&3/)3*45*"/'"*5)'6-"-*,& 58"4'06/%&%*/

#:".0/,5)&-&44&% )3*450%06-04*/)0/0630'50)/5)&*7*/& "65)030'5)�,0'.$,"'&/&0'5)& 3*$)&45"/%.045*/'-6&/5*"-.0/"45&3*&4*/ 3&&$&*54508&34"/%#6553&44&4.",& *5-00,-*,&"'"*3:5"-&$"45-&#658&3*-5 501305&$5*543&-*(*06453&"463&48)*$)"3& /085)&45"3"553"$5*0/'035)&5)064"/%40' 1*-(3*.4"/%5063*454 Kitchens

Monastery of St John above Chóra Chapel of John the Baptist

Inner courtyard

!"+"+'&',!%'+,"%('*,&, ',!,!&,-*1*+'+,!, /*'-&"&,!!($',! & 3!1!& ("&,'.*-,/**.$ ,*&*,!)-#"& The monks’ refectory)"4580 5"#-&4."%&0'."3#-&5",&/'30. 5)&&.1-&0'35&.*48)*$) 03*(*/"--:0$$61*&%5)&4*5&

The Chapel of Christodoulos

!"+,!&,-*1"'&"+,! %'+,*.*"&,!%'&+,*1 &"+!'-+"&,!,"5)0-*,=/ ,!%'&+,*1+%"&!-*!

$0/5"*/45)& 50.#"/% 4*-7&33&-*26"3: 0'5)&-&44&% )3*450%06-04

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp309–12 and pp334–6

STAR FEATURES

Main Courtyard Icon of St John

!"+"+'&',! %'&+,*1+,& !($+-"$, -+!-*! $/'*++ "& !*%'* ,!&'&1"& ,!+%!($

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Chóra, 4 km (2.5 miles) S of Skála. Tel 22470 31398. Monastery & Treasury 8am–1:30pm Mon–Thu, Sat & Sun (4–6pm Tue, Thu & Sun). treasury only.

!"++*'$$'"&,! ,*+-*1"+,!%'&+,*1+ '-&,"'&+$"& '$1,!12&,"&% (*'* $0"'+'%&&'+ The treasury)064&4

07&3 *$0/4 1*&$&40'4*-7&38"3& "/%"%";;-*/( $0--&$5*0/0' +&8&-4

*+'+','!&*'%,! ,!&,-*1'*&,!'-,* &*,!0',!,"5)0-*,=/ /!'+*+'*%& "&, *$(*,',!'-*,1* The Chapel of the Holy Apostles-*&4+6450654*%&

5)&("5&0'5)&.0/"45&3:

The main entrance)"44-*54

'031063*/(#0*-*/(0*-07&3 ."3"6%&34 )*4 5) $&/563:("5&8":-&"%46150 5)&$0##-&%."*/$0635:"3%

NIPTIR CEREMONY )&35)0%09"45&3$&-"5*0/40/ <5.04"3&40.&0'5)&.045*.1035"/5 */3&&$&6/%3&%40'1&01-&1"$, )=3"508"5$)5)&"(,3* 8"4)*/($&3&.0/:0/"6/%: )634%": )&"##050'5)& 0/"45&3:0'50)/16#-*$-: 8"4)&45)&'&&50' .0/,43& &/"$5*/()3*4548"4)*/(0'*4 %*4$*1-&4'&&5#&'03&5)&"45 Embroidery of 611&3)&3*5&8"40/$& Christ 1&3'03.&%#:5)&:;"/5*/& washing the &.1&3034"4"/"$50')6.*-*5: disciples’ feet

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Agios Ioánnis church in Lipsí village

Λειψο

Λ ρο

@1.7=1.B+>25=7*?*5 +*<.<27*44I+*B&7-.; .;6*7;>5./;86 >7=25 =1.552.-52+.;*=287H;8<@*< .?.7=>*55B>72=.-@2=1;..,. 27 (1.7=1.6252=*;B >7=*=88498@.;27 =1.B .A25.-9852=2,*5-2<<2-.7=<=8 H;8<<9;2<87,*69< %8-*B H;8<2<4..7=8 .691*<2<.2=<<=;870,>5=>;*5 *7-.->,*=287*51.;2=*0. *68><2,2*7<*7- 98.=<=1.2<5*7-1*<9;.<.;?.- =;*-2=287*5/854-*7,.*7- 6><2,=1;8>01;=.62<=1. B8>=1,>5=>;*5<8,2.=B Lakkí

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email protected] 58@4.B %1.18< *<,2<=-;.*6 =8@7 *44I2<* +B=1.687*<=.;B*="G=68< 92=*5<<=2559;8?2-. 018<==8@7->;270 <27,. BC*7=27.=26.<29;,.8/ 1*<.A,.55.7=+.*,1.<*7-2< .6958B6.7=/8; =1.-*B+>==1. 989>5*;/8;-*B.A,>;<287< <.*/;87=,*/H< =1.58,*5<8@ /;86"G=68<*7-G5B678< ,86.=852/.27=1. .?.;52/.1.;.2< %1.2<5*7-2<875B <:46 =;*-2=287*5*7- .?.7270 ;8>7- Neo-Classical façade of <:625.<*7-;.6*27<* =1.+*B*=H92-* =1.9.895.*;. 1*?.7/8;=;*-2=287*5;..4 ?.;B@.5,86270 Maliamate villa, Agía Marína =1./8;6.;=*52*7 7*?*5+*<.78@ 2<5*7-52/.9;8->,270<86. *7-/;2.7-5B 088-58,*5@27.<*7-,1..<.< %1.2<5*7-@*<8,,>92.-+B 18><.<=1.$=*=.%1.;*9.> =1.7201=<8/$=81727 =2,*58<92=*5*7-@2=127=1. %1.6*27<.==5.6.7=Lipsí ,8695.A2<*6*7<28787,. town2<+*<.-*;8>7-=1. +B=1.%>;4
=8 ><.-*<><<85272<<>66.; 1*;+8>;.;.=1.+5>.-86.- *7-+B=1.=*52*7<27 ,1>;,18/Agios Ioánnis 185-<*/*68><2,878/=1. THE ART DECO ARCHITECTURE OF LAKKI "*7*0I* 7,2.7=5252.<@2=127 =1./;*6.62;*,>58><5B<9;270 ><<852720><==1. 27 @1.7=*52*7*;,12=.,=<*7-=8@795*77.;<=>;7.- /.*<=8/=1.)2.5-2708/=1. =1.2;.7.;02.<=8+>25-270=1.7.@=8@7:>2=.;.6*;4*+5. .A*695.8/;= .,8*;,12=.,=>;.*44I@*<+>25=*;8>7- 77>7,2*=287 7=1.=8@7 1*55=1.Nikofóreion Eccle@2-.+8>5.?*;-<+B=1..7027..;<$*;-.52*7-*.<*;82< siastical Museum/.*=>;.<*7 *7 ><=;2*7 %1.68-.5=8@7@*<*55,>;?.<*7-/.*=>;.-* 8--,855.,=2878//27-</;86 <*>,.;<1*9.-6*;4.=+>25-270@2=1*,58,4=8@.; ,8695.=.-27 *,B527-;2,*5 7.*=5B5*+.55.-+8==5.<8/185B %8@7*55*7-*<,2<=,.7=;. @*=.;=8=;*-2=287*5,8<=>6.< -*=270=8 E *7-=1. %1.<.<201=<*;.*55<207 ?*<= 5+.;08#86*7*5*=.; 98<=.-/;86=1.1*;+8>;*7- =1.;.*;.27/8;6*5=*A2<.;?2,.< =1. H;8<"*5*,.8=.5 %1. =8=1.68;.-2<=*7=+*B<*7- 5+.;08@2=1=1.,27.6* *7-=1.*=;.,8695.A@*< +.*,1.<8/Platýs Gialós, Monodéntri*7-=1.<=;2708/ ,8695.=.-27 /8;?2<2=270 <*7-B,8?.<*=Katsadiás =*52*79.;/8;6.;<%1.<. -*B<=1.6*38;2=B8/=1. Nikofóreion Lakkí’s Art Deco +>25-270<*;.,;>6+5270 Ecclesiastical Museum cinema building *7-7.05.,=.-

650. Lipsí town. Town hall, Lipsí (22470 41185). Platýs Gialós 4 km (2.5 miles) N of Lipsí town.

8,000. Parthéni. Lakkí, Agía Marína (hydrofoils). Plateía Plátanos, Plátanos. Harbourfront, Lakkí (22470 22109).

May–Sep: daily.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp309–12 and pp334–6

% !

A R C H A N G E LO S

$

TRIPITI STONGILLI

Parthén • Temple of Artemis

•

Plefoúti

•

0 kilometres

Alinta Agios Isídoros Sikea• • • • Krithóni Goúrnas Bay • • Agía Marína Kástro Drymónas • Plátanos • • Lipsí, • Pantéli • Pátmos Vromólithos

0 miles

4 2

%1.;8*-78;=1 5.*-<=80I* *;I7**7-2< 527.-@2=1269 ;.<<2?. .8 5*<<2,*56*7< LAKKI 287<+>25= [email protected] *7- Agía Marína2<=1. Lépida • 9;27,29*598;= • /8;1B-;8/825< Kálymnos, Palaiókastro • Xirókampos Psérimos 8558@270=1. P I G A N O U S S A ,8*<=*5;8*- 78;=1=8 ;2=1J72=1.British War Cemetery2<*<2=. KEY 8/9250;26*0./8;=18<. For key to map see back flap @1858<=;.5*=2?.<27=1. *==5.8/H;8< ;.<2-.7,.5<827H92-*2< .*,1.<527.=1.;8*-5.*- =1. =1,.7=>;B,1>;,18/ 270/>;=1.;78;=1=8Álinda Agios Ioánnis Theológos =1.2<5*7-<6*27;.<8;= $=817=1.2?27.+>25= @12,11*<*5870+.*,1@2=1 8?.;=1.;.6*27<8/*BC*7 @*=.;<98;=<*7-<.*/;87= =27.,1>;,1+B=1.6874 ,*/H< 527=*< 1;2<=8-8>58< Historic and Folk Museum2< 18><.-27=1.=@27=8@.;.- Around the Island .5H72<*<=5.+>25=+B*7 H;8<2<*9;.==B0;..72<5*7- .A9*=;2*=.+.7./*,=8;"*;I<<2< @2=1*727-.7=.-,8*<=527. .5H72< 2==5.;.6*27<8/=1. <@..927027=8?*<=0>5/<=1. 87,.98@.;/>5%.695.8/ D/8>;<.*7=;B %8-./B=1.=*52*7<=1. .;2*7<*+*7-87.-*44I*7- 6*-.=1.?255*0.8/Plátanos =1.,*92=*5$=;*--5270*1255=89 2=<18><.<<9255-8@7=8=1. 52==5.98;=8/"*7=H52*7-=8=1. /2<1270?255*0.8/0I**;I7* ".;,1.-*+8?."5G=*78<=1. BC*7=27.4G<=;88//.;<.<=1.,1>;,18/

;=.62<78@8?.;5884270=1. *2;98;=*="*;=1H7227=1. 78;=1 %1.;.*;.*/.@,*;?.- +58,4<8/<=87.*7-/;*06.7=< 8/9255*;<%1.08--.<<<=255 1*<<86.27/5>.7,.27H;8< 18@.?.;*<9;89.;=B9*<<.< -8@7=1./.6*5./*625B527. *;5B1;2<=2*7+*<252,*< 1*?.+..7/8>7-27=1.*;.* *7-<8>=18/=1.*2;98;==1. =1,.7=>;B,1>;,18/Agios Geórgios+>25=+B=1.6874 1;2<=8-8>58< ><270=.695.,85>67<1*<* /;.<,88/=1.<*27= Agios Isídoros87=1.@.<= ,8*<=*+8?.<*7-B8K;7*< *B1*<*@12=.,1*9.587*7 2<5.==1*=,*7+.;.*,1.-+B 6.*7<8/*7*;;8@,*><.@*B = ;B6J7*<@2=12=<,8?.< *7-85.*7-.;08;0.2<=1. ,1>;,18/=1.Panagía Gourlomáta@12,1=;*7<5*=.< *<=1.D08005..B.-'2;027F #.,87<=;>,=.-27 /;86 *7 =1,.7=>;B,1*9.5=1. ,1>;,1=*4.<2=<7*6./;86 =1.@2-..B.-.A9;.<<2878/ =1.*-877*<..72787.8/ 2==18/ =1.2<5*7-2<8?.;5884.-+B *7,2.7="*5*2J4*<=;8=1. /8;6.;<2=.8/=1.;-,.7=>;B ,*<=5.8/H92-* %1.1>0. B,589.*7@*55<;.6*27*7- @2=127=1.62<=1.,1>;,18/ "*7*0I*=1*=2<186.=8<86. /27.68<*2,< Historic and Folk

Museum Belénis Castle, Alínda May–Sep: daily.

Megalóchari or Kyrá tou Kástrou=1.*-877*8/=1.

*<=5./*68>58><2,87 .*;+B"*7=H522< */2<1270?255*0.@2=1*=;.. /;270.-+.*,1*7-1*;+8>;

Plátanos village with the kástro in the background

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Κλυμνο

&24:894)&>&89-*8543,*+.8-.3,.81&3)@1>23488 -.8947>(&3'*97&(*)'&(094&*41.9-.(8*991*2*39.3 #49-F34.3*&7D9-.&.9<&8(4143.?*)&+9*79-* )*;&89&9.434+7*9*"-*5*451*-&;*'**3034<3+47 9-*.77*8.1.*3(*8.3(*9-* 9-(*39:7>2&88&(7*'> 9-*!*1/:0":708<-.(- &+*<8:7;.;*).3 +479.+.*)&89A11.

1&;.8-1>7*(43897:(9*)&3)9-*7* .8&(411*(9.434+*41.9-.(&3) 743?*,*+.3)8+7429-* .81&3)51:814(&12*247&'.1.& "-* Sponge Factory/:894++ 1&9*B&1*+9-*7B&8-&8&(42 51*9*-.8947>4+8543,*8 Archaeological Museum Near Plateía Kýprou. Tel 22430 23113. Tue–Sun. main public hols. Sponge Factory Plateía Eleftherías. Tel 22430 28501. daily. main public hols.

Around the Island

Emporeiós

@1>2348.8*&8>94,*9&74:3) <.9-&,44)':88*7;.(*949-* ;.11&,*8&3)3:2*74:89&=.8 Kolonóstilo "-.874(0>.81&3)-&89-7** 24:39&.37&3,*89-*5*&08 Kastélli 4++8*9'>)**5+/47)1.0*.31*98 Arginónta 479-<*894+D9-.&9-*8:' TELEN D O S Armeós • Drasónia :7'4+F14.<.9-.989-7** Masoúri )*7*1.(9<.3)2.118'1*3)8.394 Myrtiés Chorió9-*57*99><-.9*94<3 &3)+472*7(&5.9&1 Armiés Metóchi 39-*<&>89&3) Kamári Plátanos Pánormos .3,949-*1*+9.89-* Rína Péra Daskalió 7:.3*) Castle of the Kástro Cave Chorió Cave of Knights&3)&'4;* Seven Virgins ;.&89*58+742-47.D Castle of .89-*(.9&)*14+Péra POTHIA the Knights Kástro4114<.3,& ":70.8-&99&(09-.8 Vothýnoi Kos, +479.+.*);.11&,* Nísyros, <&8.3-&'.9*) Psérimos Piraeus +7429-* 9-94 NERA 9-* 9-(*39:7>9 "-.8 9-(*39:7> (&9-*)7&1-&8&7*7*)48 The Mermaid at -&8,44);.*<8&3) 8(7**3'*-.3)9-*&19&7 Póthia harbour 3.3*<-.9*(-&5*18 Léros Astypálaia 89&3)439-*(7&,8 '>.&334E1.8-&1*5@8 KEY #!"-*"&99-* "-* Cave of Seven Virgins For key to map see back flap 59@&79-A3438-4<897&(*8 -&7'4:7.843*4+ <4708 4+3>25-<478-.5*,*3)-&8 9-&9<*7*)43&9*)949-* .81&3)'>14(&18(:1594787*3* .99-&99-*8*;*3;.7,.38-.)-*7* 0 kilometres 5 &3).([email protected]D00.348 +7425.7&9*8':9).8&55*&7*).3 "-* Archaeological 9-*'499421*88(-&33*1'*14< 0 miles 3 Museum-4:8*).3&*4 "-*2&.37*84798439-* Póthia 1&88.(&12&38.43-&8'**3 .81&3)&7*897:3,4:9&143,9-* "-*(&5.9&1&3)2&.354794+ 9-*.81&3).8&':8><470.3, -&7'4:7$*),*)'*9<**3 9<424:39&.389-*94<38 '7.,-91>5&.39*)-4:8*8(:7;* &74:3)9-*'&> D9-.&.8-42*947**(*8 1&898543,*+1**9&3)9-*7*.8& 8543,*).;.3,8(-441439-* *&89*738.)*4+9-*-&7'4:7 "-*<&9*7+7439.81.3*)<.9- (&+A8&3)9-*2&.31&3)2&708 &7*9-*5.30)42*)9&1.&3&9* ':.1).3,8.3(1:).3,9-*41) Governor’s Palace<-.(-34< -4:8*89-*2&70*9&3)9-* 8.1;*7)42*)(&9-*)7&14+ Agios Christós41>-7.89 View of Póthia and harbour Palaiónissos

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp309–12 and pp334–6

" !

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 14,000. Póthia. behind marketplace, Póthia. Plateía Taxi, Póthia (22430 59141). Póthia: Mon–Sat. Easter celebrations around island: Easter Sat; Sponge week at Póthia: week following Greek Easter.

The deep Vathý inlet with the settlement of Rína at its head

<*89(4&89"-*8:38*94;*7 9-*.81*94+"A1*3)48+742 Myrtiés.843*4+@1>23488 2489+&24:88.,-9819-4:,- >79.A8&3)3*.,-'4:7.3, &84E7.-&;*34<,74<3.394 34.8>94:7.89(*397*89-* 72*D8*3)4+&84E7..81*88 +7*3*9.("49-*3479-.89-* +479.+.*) Kastélli9-*7*+:,*4+ 8:7;.;478+7429-* 9-(*39:7> ":70.8-2&88&(7*"-*(4&89 74&)+742-*7*.885*(9&(:1&7 5&88.3,+.8-+&728.31*98 &3)9-*+/47)1.0*'*&(-&9 Arginónta;.8.9949-* 3479-*732489+.8-.3,-&21*9 Emporeiós2&0*8&,44))&> 4:9&3).8.3(7&,,><&10.3,

&C6:*8+742 B3&;.8.99-* Daskalió Cave.39-*8.)*4+ 9-*8-**7.31*9&3)72.A8 7&8D3.&&3)&1&.D3.8848 '*&(-*8439-**&89(4&89

(4:397>%4:(&3<&1094

Outlying Islands

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Mastichári

Κω

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Moni +:)<-;<-)+016/; Agiou

16+:-);-,<0- Ioánni 0 kilometres 5 1;4)6,;:-67?6A<0- <0+-6<=:A7;?); 0 miles 3 );<:76/<:),16/87?-: <07=/01<,-+416-,).<-:<0-$75)6;)::1>-,16 &0-61/0<;7.%<706:=4-,.:75 )6,<0-&=:3; /7>-:6-,.:75

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Antimácheia

Chelóna

Kardámaina

KEY For key to map see back flap

8:7*)*4A),-;+-6,-6<7.<0- 7:1/16)4&0-6-):*A.7=6<)16 ?);*=14<16 *A<0-&=:3 1;0/7>-:67:),21);;)6<7 ;-:>-<0- 7;9=-7.<0-7/ /1)&0-?)<-:/=;0-,16<7)6 )6+1-6<5):*4-;):+780)/=; Yachts moored in the harbour at Kos town

)<61/0<41<=8*A;<:7*-;)6, 4);-:;1887+:)<-;)6+1-6< 84)6-<:--16#4)<-H)#4)-*--684)6<-, tou. Vasiléos Georgíou 1 (22420 *A015 A-):;)/7 28724). daily. Kos town. -;81<-1<; 5 .<,1) 5-<-:<0-8:-;-6<<:--1;764A 7516)<-,*A1<;);<4-7.<0- )*7=< A-):;74,)6,1; 61/0<;74,7;<7?6?); ,-;<:7A-,16<0- -):<0 9=)3-&01;:->-)4-,5)6A )6+1-6<:=16;?01+0<0-<)41)6; -@+)>)<-,)6,:-;<7:-, &0-0):*7=:*:1;<4-;?1<0 A)+0<;)6,-@+=:;176*7)<; )6,8)>-5-6<+).G;416-<0- ;<:--<<61/0<1601/0;-);76 A7=+)6)457;
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp309–12 and pp334–6

Antimácheia Castle

Castle of Knights Plateía Platánou. Tel 22420 28326. Tue–Sun. main public hols.

&0- <0+-6<=:A+);<4-/)<- ?)A1;+):>-,?1<0/):/7A4-; )6,)6-):41-:+7)<7.):5;7. -:6F6,-B,--:-,1)<0- :)6, );<-:.:75 <7 &0-7=<-:3--8)6, *)<<4-5-6<;?-:-*=14<*-1-?; Ancient Agora South of Plateía Platánou.

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Marmári

Alykés Saltpans

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Lámpi

Zipári

Sámos, Sýros

Palaió Pylí Pylí Asfendíou Villages

Elaion

Psérimos,Kálymnos, Piraeus

Tigkáki

Platáni Asklepieíon

Agios Dimítrios

Mount Dikaíos

KOS TOWN

Tolári

Nísyros, Rhodes

27,000. 27 km (16 miles) W of Kos town. Aktí Koudouriótou, Kos town. Kos town. Kos town (22420 28724, kosinfo@ kos.forthnet.gr). Hippocrates Cultural Festival: Jul–Sep; Panagía at Kardámaina: 8 Sep; Agios Geórgios Festival at Palaió Pylí: 23 Apr.

846m 2,775ft

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE 6<15F+0-1) ;.-6,H7='144)/-; ;34-81-H76 )5F:1 ):,F5)16) 7;&7?6 #)4)1I#A4H &1/3F31

<0-:,+-6<=:A;<7) )5F:)<7=I:7=:+),-7. <0-7:=5<0-:,+-6<=:A &-584-7.-:)34-;57;)1+ .477:;,-81+<16/":80-=;)6, -:)34-;)6,:=16;7.<0- &-584-7.#F6,-57;80:7 ,1<- <0+-6<=:A0:1;<1)6 *);141+)?);)4;7,1;+7>-:-, )476/?1<0<0-$75)6/7:) Archaeological Museum Plateía Eleftherías. Tel 22420 28326. Tue–Sun. main public hols.

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Psalídi Thérmes

Agios Fokás

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Kos lettuce on a market stall in Plateía Eleftherías

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Rows of marble benches for the Roman audiences that came to the ancient odeion

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14 km (9 miles) W of Kos town.

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12 km (7 miles) W of Kos town. Tigkáki.

The seven restored columns of the Temple of Apollo at the Asklepieíon

4 km (2.5 miles) NW of Kos town. Tel 22420 28763. Jul–Oct 8am–6:30pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Jun: 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun.

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$0-878=4)::-;7:<;7.$1/3F31 )6,6-1/0*7=:16/):5F:1 0)>-476/?01<-;)6,*-)+0-; 1,-)4.7:?16,;=:.16/)6,7<0-: ?)<-:;87:<; 7)<<:18;):- )>)14)*4-.:75$1/3F31<7<0- 1;4)6,7.!;G:157;7887;1<- $0-6-):*AAlykés Saltpans ):-)8-:.-+<84)+-.7:*1:, ?)<+016/$0-5)6A?-<4)6, ;8-+1-;0-:-16+4=,-;5)44 ?),-:;413-<0-)>7+-<)6, <0-*4)+3?16/-,;<14
HIPPOCRATES $0-.1:;<0741;<1+0-)4-:)6,C.)<0-:7. 57,-:65-,1+16-E1887+:)<-;?);*7:6 76 7;16 )6,,1-,16$0-;;)4A16 )*7=< -;=887;-,4A+)5-.:75 )416-7.0-)416/,-51/7,;)6,0-4-):6-, 5-,1+16-.:7501;.)<0-:)6,/:)6,.)<0-: 01;.)<0-:?);),1:-+<,-;+-6,)6<7. ;34-817;<0-/7,7.0-)416/01;57<0-: 7.-:)34-;-?);<0-.1:;<80A;1+1)6<7 +4);;1.A,1;-);-;)6,16<:7,=+-,6-? 5-<07,;7.,1)/67;1;)6,<:-)<5-6<- <)=/0<767;*-.7:-<0-;34-81-H76?); -;<)*41;0-,)6,?:7<-<0-1887+:)<1+ )<0 <7+=:-:)<0-:<0)60):5;<144;?7:6*A 5-,1+)48:)+<1<176-:;?7:4,?1,-

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp309–12 and pp334–6

#

15 km (9 miles) SW of Kos town. Paradise 7 km (4 miles) E.

)5F:11;)/77,*);-.7: -@847:16/<0-;7=<0?-;< +7);<?0-:-<0-1;4)6,;*-;< *-)+0-;+)6*-.7=6,7;<4A :-)+0-,>1);<--8<:)+3;.:75 <0-5)16:7),<0-57;< .)57=;1;!):),1;-*-)+0?1<0 .16-?01<-;)6,;)5F:1 *-)+04-),;<7<0- <0+-6<=:A Palaió Pylí castle perched precariously on a cliff’s edge 0:1;<1)6*);141+)7./17; #
); )8:1;7616<0- <0+-6<=:A Environs 15 km (9 miles) W of Kos town. )6,?);+76;<)6<4A*75*):, Kéfalos76<0-57=6<)167=; to Pylí. -,*A81:)<-;<;5);;1>- 8-616;=4)164)6,.:75)5F:1 1;367?6.7:1<;<0A5-076-A $0-,-;-:<-,AB)6<16-<7?6 +:-6-44)<-,*)<<4-5-6<;)6, )6,+0--;-;#1/0<;16+4=,-<0- 7.!)4)1I!A4H1;8-:+0-,76) ;9=)<<7?-:67?7>-:4773 :=16-,);<4-7.<0-61/0<; +:)/ 35 514-;)*7>-<0- )6):5A*);-)6,<0-:- ;)1,<7*-<0-4)1:7.),:)/76 .):516/>144)/-7.!A4H?1<0<0- ):-/77,>1-?;<7?):,; ++7:,16/<74-/-6,1887 :-5)16;7.1<;+);<4-?)44; ):,F5)16)$0-166-:/)<- +:)<-;,)=/0 *=14<16<7<0-:7+3-:-<0- ?)A;<144*-):; <-:?);<:)6; 4-;;-,0:1;<7,7=47;*=14< <0-+7)<7. .7:5-,16<7) <0- <0+-6<=:A+0=:+07.<0- ):5;7.<0- ,:)/76*A:< '8)8)6,H;!:-;-6<)<1767. :)6,);<-: -;=;*-.7:-0-?-6<<7 -51;)6, !1-::- !F<57;

6!A4H41-; ,=*=;;76 )?)1<;<0-31;; <0-4);;1+)4 <75*7.<0- D 7.)361/0<<7 5A<01+)40-:7316/0F:5A47; )6,<0-:-):- :-;=5-0=5)6 <0); =6,-:/:7=6,+:A8<; ?01+0):-67?;=:57=6<-, G.)47;1;<0- +0)8-4;?1<016 *A<0-+0=:+07.#<)>:I; ?16,51447. <0-?)44; Antimácheia castle battlements !)8)>);H41; Environs )6,6-):*A)< $0-:7),67:<0.:75 !)4F<1)):-<0-:-5)16;7. Astypálaia<0-*1:<084)+-7. 6<15F+0-1)4-),;<7<0- +0):516/87:<7.Mastichári 1887+:)<-; -1/0*7=:16/ 26 km (16 miles) SW of Kos town. $0-:-):-/77,.1;0<)>-:6); ;8:1!G<:)+)>-0);A1-4,-, Kardámaina. 0-:-)6,)476/;)6,A*-)+0 :-5)16;$0-27=:6-A<7Moní 6+-)9=1-<.1;016/>144)/- <0)<;?--8;16<7,=6-;)<<0- Agíou Ioánni35 514-; 67<-,.7:1<;+-:)51+; ;7=<07.G.)47;8);;-; ?-;<-:6-6, 6<0-?)A<7 <0:7=/0,:)5)<1+;+-6-:A ):,F5)16)1;<0-1;4)6,; <0-,=6-;<0-:=16;7.)6 *1//-;<:-;7:1)6<7=:1;<;< 0);514-;7.+:7?,-,/74,-6 ;)6,;)6,);?16/16/61/0<41.- <1;9=1-<-:.=:<0-:;7=<0?1<0 ;75--@+4=;1>-,->-4785-6<; #1/0<;16+4=,-)AB)6<16+0=:+0)6,<0-:-5)16;7. )-44-61;<1+<0-)<:-

25 km (16 miles) W of Kos town.

$0->144)/-7.6<15F+0-1)1; ,7516)<-,*A1<;%-6-<1)6 +);<4-)6,?16,5144;$0- +);<4-47+)<-,6-):<0-

Music bars and clubs in the resort of Kardámaina

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Chóra overlooking Astypálaia’s main harbour, Skála

?*55.B@2=1,2=;><0;8?.< *7-,8;7/2.5-<=1*<*5870 +.*,1&1.7>-2<=1*>7=8/ Tzanáki52.<*<18;=-2<=*7,. 1,100. 11 km (7 miles) E of =8=1.<8>=1;862?F-2* Astypálaia town. Astypálaia -2;==;*,45.*-<78;=1=8Agios town. near Kástro, Astypálaia Andréas*;.68=.*7-*==;*, town (22430 61778). =2?.,8?.*718>;*7-* (2=12=<-*CC5270@12=. 1*5/<=;.4*@*B /8;=2/2.-=8@78/1J;**7-2=< 8;=18/1J;*87=1.7*; <,.72,,8*<=527.=1.2<5*7-8/ ;8@5*7-+;2-0.[email protected]=1. <=B9F5*2*;.=*27<*7.A:>2<2=. =@8<2-.<8/=1.2<5*7-52.< Maltezána*5<8478@7*< ,1*;6+*,4@*=.;27 5*<<2,*5=26.<<=B9F5*2* 7F529<2=1./*<=.<=0;8@270 /58>;2<1.-27=1.2--5.0.< ;.<8;=87=1.2<5*7- *6.- @1.7=1.'.7.=2*7#>2;272 */=.;=1.6*;*>-27092;*=.< /*625B;>5.-/;86 =8

@1887,./;.:>.7=.-2= &1.68<=@.<=.;5B8/=1. *5=.CF7*@*<@1.;.=1. ;.7,1*9=*27208=<.=/2;. 8-.,*7.<.2=2<*;.68=. =812<<12927 =89;.?.7= 2<5*7-@2=11201,52//<*7-* 1255B27=.;28;&1.;.*;.6*7B 2=+.270,*9=>;.- ,8?.<*7-<*7-B+*B<*5870 !7=1.78;=1.*<=.;79.727 =1.,8*<=@12,1@*<87,. <>5*2<=1.D58<=5*0887E*-..9 =1.5*2;8/*5=.<.92;*=.< 275.=*==1.1*65.=8/Vathý Astypálaia town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gios Ioánnis*7-2=<0><1270@*=.; A typical housefront in Mandráki /*55 Livádi=1.6*27;.<8;= 52.<<8>=18/1J;*27*/.;=25. on Nísyros

Αστυπλαια

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp309–12 and pp334–6

Νσυρο

1,000. Mandráki harbour. Gialiskári 2 km (1 mile) E of Mandráki; Páloi 4 km (2 miles) E of Mandráki.

568<=,2;,>5*; H01H027*"J;8< H58<*7-%*7=8;H727

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Tílos, Rhodes

MANDRAKI

%

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Páloi

Loutrá

Kolkáki

Palaiókastro

Emporeiós

Liés Pachiá Ammos

Profítis Ilías

698 m 2,290 ft

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Nikiá

Agios Ioánnis Theológos

KEY For key to map see back flap

Around the Island

Argos

H<1*7-0;..7@2=1 =.;;*,.<8/852?.</20<*7- Avláki *5687-=;..<,87=;*<=270@2=1 0 kilometres 3 =1.<=;*70.0;.B*7-B.558@ 6887<,*9.8/=1.,;*=.;< 0 miles 1 8?2<2=@8>5-+.,8695.=. 8;,1*;-=8=1.6*27<:>*;. @2=18>=*7.A,>;<287=8=1. "5*=.H*524286G787=7201= ?85,*78*7-+B-*B=1.2<5*7- =1.*;.*2<+><=5270<189<=1*= 2<<@*69.-@2=1?2<2=8;< ;.<.6+5.18><.<*;.89.7 /;868<8@.?.;2=2< @2=1=;*-2=287*59*27=.-<207< :>2.=@1.7=1..A,>;<287 +8*=<1*?.5./= -.92,=270=1.2;@*;.<&1. +8?.*7-;F4252.<=1. 5*7.<+.,86.7*;;8@*7- Palaiókastro=1.*,;89852< 68;.@27-270* 8/*7,2.7= H-.B,589.*7@*55< *70F-2*;.*=1.+*5,872.< 6*-./;866*<<2?.+58,4< 87=1.18><.<*568<==8>,1 *,;8<<=1.<=;..= ,*;?.-/;86=1.?85,*72, &1.6*38;*==;*,=287<27 ;8,4*7-8;2,,85>67< *7-;F42*;.=1. =1,.7=>;B H<=27,5>-.=1.9;.==B?255*0. The main square in Nikiá with 7201=<8/%=817 8/ Nikiá@2=12=< its choklákia mosaic

68<*2,27=1.;8>7- +>25=27

1201 D<:>*;.E*7-*+*7-87.- >9=1.,52///*,.&1.687*< &1.Historical and Folk Museum87=1.@*B>9=8=1. Emporeiós@12,1,5270<=8 =.;B Moní Panagías Spilianís 52.<@2=127=1.4F<=;8*7- 4F<=;81*<*;.,87<=;>,=.- =1.;268/=1.,;*=.; -*=.7- =;*-2=287*52<5*7-42=,1.7 &8=1..*<=8/*7-;F42 7<2-.*/27.5B,*;?.-2,87 .6+;82-.;2.<*7-*<6*55,85 Páloi2<*9;.==B/2<1270?255*0. @2=1088-=*?.;7*<*7-*<=;270 8<=*<2<185-<*$><<2*7<=B5. 5.,=2878/58,*5918=80;*91< 8/-*;4?85,*72,<*7-+.*,1.< 2,87-.,4.-27085-*7-<25?.; A,>;<287+8*=<8//.;=;29< /;86*7-;F42=8Gyalí*7- &@842586.=;.< 625.@.<= 8//.;270<8/=1.'2;027*7- 8/=1.?255*0.*=Loutrá*7 125-&1./*6.8/=1.,1>;,1 =1.=27BAgios Antónios2<5.= +.B87-8=1-.<=27*=287< *+*7-87.-<9*,*7+./8>7- 0;.@*/=.;%*;*,.7;.8/<25?.;12- /2.;,.5B87 H6 Museum .*<=8/"F582,*78/=.7+. Kástro. May–Sep: daily. +.;8/.,,5.<2*<=2,*5=;.*<>;.< 52==.;.-@2=1-.+;2<

View of Mandráki, the capital of Nísyros

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NISYROS CALDERA

The Stéfanos crater?12,12;5 /
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300. Livádia. Megálo Chorió (22460 44212). Eristós 10 km (6 miles) NW of Livádia.

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The pebble beach at Livádia

".:,1.-76*,42//76<1.?.;< ,7*;<<1.AB*6<26. Moní Agíou Panteleïmonos2; <1.2;4*6-;5*26;201<6* ,4=;<.:7/<:..;<12;/7:<2/2.- 576*;<.:A?2<1:.-8*6<24.- :77/;2;/*57=;/7: 2<;;=6;.<>2.?; =24<26 2<1*; ,2:,=4*:,1*8.4;* 57;*2,,7=:*45763; ,.44; &1.-75.7/ <1.,1=:,11*;* Livádia >2;2767/ "#$ 2>F-2*<1.5*26;.<<4.5.6< $ "*$ " 1*;*<:../:260.-8.++4.+.*,1 Palaeontological +A :.07:A7/%J52 !<1.:2587:<*6< Museum1*;52-0.< ;?..8260:7=6-2<;+*A&1. +4=.*6-?12<.,1=:,17/Agios /7;;242B.-5*;<7-76 *:<2/*,<;26,4=-. Nikólaos-7526*<.;<1.?*<.: .4.81*6<+76.;/:75 <1,.6<=:A8*26< Detail of the War /:76<*6-1*;*62,767;<*;2; <1.2;*:2F:.0276 260;7/"*:*-2;.*6- Memorial at Livádia ,*:>.-26 +A*<*;F:2; *6-*074-<:.*;=:. <1.*87;<4.;*6-* /:75$17-.;!6<1.+.*,1 <:7>./7=6-26* ,*:>.-2,767;<*;2; :7*-<1.<26A.*:4A1:2;<2*6 .44.62;<2,<75+26<1..6F <1*<-*<.;/:75 :.02767/<1.2;4*6- +*;242,*7/Agios Panteleïmon &1./7;;242B.-+76.;7/5262 &1.,1=:,17/:,1F60.47; 5*;<7-76;/:75?.:. kai Polýkarpos1*;*6 2,1*H4 ?*;+=24<*0*26;< -2;,7>.:.-26<1.Charkadió *<<:*,<2>.57;*2,/477: <1.3F;<:7?*44; Grotto*:*>26.26<1.2;*:2F <1*;;24>.:2,76; *:.*&1.:=26.-/7:<:.;;7/ /:75<1.7:2026*4 2;*:2F5*:3;<1.;87< Mikró Chorió+.47? &*@2F:,12;,1=:,1 *024-.- <1,.6 2;*:2F1*;*+7=<

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp309–12 and pp334–6

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NIMOS

Tílos

Σμη

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Sými Town

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Marathoúnta

Panormítis

Moní Taxiárchi Michaïl Panormíti TEFTLOYSA

KEY For key to map see back flap

0 kilometres 0 miles

4 2

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Nov–Apr. @'4:/4+kástro'4*3+*/+<'2 Sými Museum ='229+-B2/!'4'-D').;8). :.+0+=+25,:.+1B9:85.'9'4 Chorió. Tel 22460 72568. /3658:'4:659:?@'4:/4+/)54 Tue–Sun. main public hols.

The pastel-coloured houses of Chorió on the ancient acropolis overlooking Sými’s harbour For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp309–12 and pp334–6

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#

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 2,500. Gialós, Sými town. Sými town (22460 72100). Orthodox Easter celebrations around the island; Parade for signing of Dodecanese Treaty at Gialós: 8 May.

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KEY For key to map see back flap

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Skála Kameírou

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp309–12 and pp334–6

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 100,000. 25 km (16 miles) SW of Rhodes town. Commercial harbour, Rhodes town. Rhodes town (22410 23655). Rodíni Park Wine Festival, outskirts of Rhodes town: end Aug.

S´ymi, Kos

Chálki, Piraeus, Astypálaia

Kastellórizo

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Archángelos Stégna

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Hammam

(Turkish %#'"! baths) %"0%"0.",."/"*0/0.!&0&+*( #+('!* "/%+3/*!+##"./("//+*/ Tower of the Virgin Agíou Athanasíou gate

Koskinoú (St John’s) gate

!& $!" %&/ "*0.(/-1."&* #.+*0+#0%".&*" 0"%/)"!&"2( #+1*0&* Square of the Jewish Martyrs Synagogue and Jewish quarter Tower of Italy Karetoú (Akantiá) gate

Panagías (Virgin’s) gate

! %&/$0"8(&$7/&'0".7*&/3&0% 03&*0+3"./&/0%")&*.+10"&*0+0%" (!+3*#.+)+))". &(%.+1. For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp309–12 and pp334–6

St Catherine’s gate 0 metres 0 yards

100 100

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Tower of Spain Ottoman Library

"" &./01&(0&* &0 +) )")+.0"/1("&)*/ +*-1"/0 +#%+!"/5((2 Agíou Georgíou (St George’s) tower

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 42,000. Paradísi 25 km (16 miles) SW of Rhodes town. Commercial harbour. Mandráki. Sat at Zéfiros, Wed at Víronas. Rodíni Park Wine Festival, Rhodes town: end Aug. Psaropoúla 1 km (0.5 mile) SW.

Tilevólon (St Anthony’s) gate Ampouáz (d’Amboise) gate

!!! ! &*&*$0%&//0.""0."0%" 2.&+1/**/+#0%"*&$%0/ %"1/0"."$0"350+0%" **+#.* "&//%+3* %"."5((22;

St Peter’s tower

Temple of Aphrodite Eleftherías (Liberty) gate Byzantine Museum (see p180) Decorative Arts Museum (see p180)

St Paul’s tower Navarcheíou gate

Arsenal gate

The walls'$6,0*

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STAR SIGHTS

)41/

$4(7261 Palace of the Grand /)66+,&-$0' Masters -/ /,.(5.10* "174556$46$66+($.$&( Street of the Knights 1)6+(4$0'$56(45

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Archaeological Museum Plateía Mouseíou. Tel 22410 25500. Tue–Sun. main public hols.

An arched street in the Old Town

&2/7?=/?73=29?=/.38>2/ 9>23-9=:3>+690>2/8312>= Medieval Rhodes and ,?36>38 E 9=>0+79?= Ancient Rhodes Exhibitions Palace of the Grand Masters. 90>2//B23,3>=3=>2/ => -/8>?2/<1/7=38-6?./ main public hols. 9>290>2/=/:/<7+8/8> + 8.-/8>?2/%?89..3=-9@/398=-+8,/=//8+= +>>2/&/7:6/90/639=98>2/ :+<>90+>9?<90>2/"+6+-/ 8/+<,C23669098>/%73>2 90>2/<+8.+=>/<= &2/1<+@/ &2//.3/@+6 0<97>2/8/-<9:963= $29./=/B23,3>3983= 90F7/3<9=13@/+ >3>6/.$29./=0<97 199.38=312>38>9 >2/ >2-/8>?9

>2-/8>?2/&?<53=298;?/=> The imposing 16th-century B23,3>=+6=938-6?./

>13@/=+838 d’Amboise gate

E

=312>38>9><+./+8. /@/38/+8.7/.3/@+6 -938=4/A/66/2/%>90 -/<+73-=0<97>2/ >37/=A3>2CD+8>38/ >2/8312>= +8. C-/8+/+81<+@/=+> 3-98=>+63+8+8. >2/"+6+-/90>2/<+8.+=>/<= 8/+<,C+6C==I= %:+83=2-/<+73-= &2/7+381+>/= Aphrodite of Rhodes, +<79?<+8.7363>+<3+ Archaeological

Decorative 90/8>2/8/A>9A8 &2/8-3/8>$29./= Museum Arts Museum +/+8.>2/ /B23,3>398/8>3>6/. 6/0>2/C1+>/&2/ Plateía Argyrokástrou. 8-3/8>$29./= Tel 22410 75674. Tue–Sun. 09<7/38 ,C C/+<=3==3>?+>/.900>2/388/< main public hols. <+8.+=>/<.7,93=/ -9?<>>./>+36= C/+<=90 &23=3=+8/B-/66/8>0965 6/+.3810<973795<+>H+=>9 +<-2+/96913-+638@/=>31+>398= 7?=/?70/+>?<38138.3+8 >2/:+6+-/&2/6/0>2/2/3=6+8.A3>2+7+<@/669?= :6+>/=+8.>36/=+A3./<+81/ -966/->39890038.= 1+>/A+=,?36>,C>2/>+63+8= 903=6+8.-9=>?7/=+8.+ +8.6/+.=0<976/0>2/9

Byzantine Museum /.><+.3>398+6 "6+>/H+%K73=8+<-2A+C Apéllou. Tel 22410 27657. Tue– $29.3+829?=/ 6/+.=0<972/9:/669J Sun. main public hols.

Courtyard at the Knights’ Hospital, now the Archaeological Museum For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp309–12 and pp334–6

+>3810<97>2/ >2-/8>?23=CD+8>38/-2?<-2,/-+7/ >2/8312>=-+>2/.<+6,?>A+= -98@/<>/.?8./<&?<53=29>2/9=;?/908./2/$/. 9=;?/ 9A+7?=/?73> 29?=/=+038/-966/->39890 3-98=+8.02//B23,3>=+<35381 /B+7:6/=90 >2-/8>?381=38>2/.C8+73- 978/83+8=>C6/0<9798H &2F<<3 +8.6+>/ >2-/8>?2/+,+8.98/.-2?<-290 139=*+-2+
$ ! %

Medieval City Walls Tours from the Palace of the Grand Masters. Tue & Fri: 2.45pm.

7+=>/<:3/-/90 7/.3/@+67363>+/->?2/2?1/ A+66=-2/98=90 <+8.+=>/<= +8.8312>=

8312>=38 +0>/<>2/ '3<1382+.+::/+9 >2/738=:3<381@3->92/&?<5= Mosque of Suleiman

the Magnificent Orféos Sokrátous. under renovation.

&2/:38579=;?/A+= -98=>/.38

>9 -977/79<+>/>2/ The Bourg’s clocktower %?6>+8=@3->92/8312>=$/,?36>38 69=/>9.7,93=/1+>/3=>2/ ?=3817+>/<3+60<97>2/ 99A/<A23-2 9<3138+679=;?/3>@3/A=>A+= 90>2/>9A8=7+49<6+8.7+<5= ,?36>38 98>2/=3>/90+ >==?:/<,,?>?8=+0/738+ CD+8>38/>9A/<+8.7+<5= 2+.>9,/2//8.90>2/966+-23?7 +8.>2/98-/7312>C79=;?/ &2/9?<1=6+,C<38>290 3=89A-3==+.6C -69=/.>9>2/:?,63- =>=,/138=+>%959?= >2/96./836/90,+D++< Library of Ahmet Havuz =>C6/=29:=900A23-263/ =2+.C=;?+2:+@/7/8> Orféos Sokrátous. Tel 22410 74090. -+0G=+8.>+@/<8+=&2/+<-23 Mar–Oct: 9:30am–4pm Mon–Sat. Nov–Feb; main public hols. >/->?+@?D /96+==3-+6+8./@+8>38/ />A//8>2/29?=/=A3>2<3-5 29?=/=>2/-2<983-6/ 90>2/=3/1/90$29./=38 />CA99./8,+6-983/=!>>9

&23=3=+-966/->39890 7+879=;?/=-+8,/09?8. !>2/<>2+8>2/7+49<=312>= @//.,/69A>2/9=:3-/90 7+8?=-<3:>=38-6?.381 >2/&981?/90>+6C ,/+?>30?66C366?738+>/. >2 983=>238H9?3=A9<>2+@3=3> +8. >2-/8>?2/"+8+1H+>3= H53= A23-2A/99>2/ !?<+.C90'3->9 63,<+2//+<6C = =>+8.=8/+<%>+>2/<38/= 2+@381,//8=>96/8>2/8 /+8.A+=,?36>,C>2/

Nélly Dimóglou Theatre 7 Andrónikou. Tel 22410 20157. mid-May–mid-Oct: Mon, Wed & Fri.

&2/ G66C37I169?&2/+>2/8>3- =1+<./8= +=+8.:/<09<7+8-/= ,/138+> :7/@/9<3.+C Hammam Plateía Aríonos. Tel 22410 27739. Mon & Sun.

&2/ 9<&?<53=2 ,+>2=A/,C?=>+:2+ "+=2+38 9<./-+./=+ 0+79?=:6+-/90+8.39809<+=>/<889,363>C >2/ 3=89A?=/. ,C9?<3=>=+8.>2/ &?<53=27389<3>C)9?<9A8 =9+:+8.>9A/6=+3+6 +8.=/B/=+/. Mosque of Ibrahim Pasha Plátanos. Tel 22410 73410. daily. donation.

%3>?+>/.900%90956G9?=>2/ 9=;?/90,<+237"+=2+A+= ,?36>38 +8./38>/<39< Mosque of Rejep Pasha Ekátonos. under renovation.

?36>38 $/4/:"+=2+3= 98/90>2/79=>=><3538190 >2/ 9<=979=;?/=>9,/ 09?8.38>2/!6.&9A8&2/ 79=;?/A23-22+=+09?8>+38 7+./0<97CD+8>38/+8. 7/.3/@+6-2?<-2-96?78= -98>+38=>2/=+<-9:2+1?=90 >2/"+=2+&2/>38CCD+8>38/ -2?<-290139=+89J<39=3= =3>?+>/.-69=/,C The Jewish Quarter

+=>0<973::9-<+>/=%;?+2/9?<1/7,<+-/=!@<3+5H &23=A+=>2//A3=2#?+<>/< 0<97>2/ =>-/8>?36 /<7+89--?:+>39838 A2/8>2//A3=2:9:?6+>398 A+=><+8=:9<>/.>9?=-2A3>D +=>+6981<3=>9>G69?=3= Plateía Evraíon Mart’yron

The dome of the Mosque of Suleiman the Magnificent

%;?+2//A3=2+<>C<= 8+7/.387/7929=/ A29:/<3=2/.38>2/-98-/8><+ >398-+7:=&2/+3838>2/ -/8>9>2/89<>23= .73<+6>C9?=/+837:9= 3817/.3/@+6,?36.381&2/ %C8+191?/3=98%37H9?

$ " # # " & "

,4797+88/98:7;/;+*+'79.6:'0+ '3*8/+-+(:9<'8(14<3:5 (>'3'))/*+39'1+=5148/43/3 9<'87+8947+*(>9.+ 9'1/'38/39.+ 8,47 :8841/3/'3*/3-%/)947 Gilded angel 22'3:+1$.+5'1')+ candleholder .'8842+57/)+1+88248'/)8 ,7428/9+8/348',9+7<./). 842+4,9.+74428'7+3'2+*9'184 .4:8+89<4+=./(/9/438+*/+;'1 '3*3)/+39".4*+8.!!,

2+!(!#*/+(+** !..0,,+-//$!-++"* /$!-!%. /$!*/0-3 Chamber of the !-(3$-%./%*)+.% Thyrsus Chamber

The Second Cross-Vaulted Chamber

43)+:8+*'89.+-4;+734784,,/)+/8 5';+**+)47'9+* +'71>.7/89/'3248'/)4,9.+ 9. )+39:7>,74248

First CrossVaulted Chamber

$!)3/$%(+-#+* ! 0.2%/$$%-+" 2-%/$%*#.!-,!*/."+-). /$!!*/-!,%!!+"/$%. %),+-/*/(/!!((!*%./% )+.%$!$)!-(.+ "!/0-!.$%*!.!* .()%1.!.

+,3+"/$!.0(,/0-!+"/$! !/$+"/$!-+&*++5* * $%..+*. +)%*/!./$! $(($!./!*/0-3 +-%#%*(3$+ %*)./!-. /$!*+ +-+.#!.* -+.* +(3 +-+.%.%*/$!/%* For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp309–12 and pp334–6

Sea Horse and Nymph

"

#

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The battlements

'3*.+';>,479/ ,/)'9/4384,9.+ 5'1')+<+7+94 (+9.+1'891/3+ 4,*+,+3)+/39.+ +;+394,9.+)/9> <'118(+/3- (7+').+*

Ippotón. Tel 22410 23359. Aug–Sep: 8am–7pm Tue– Sun; Oct–Jul: 8:30am–3pm Tue– Sun; 12–3pm Good Fri. 1 Jan, 25 Mar, Easter Sun, 1 May, 25, 26 Dec. limited.

$!,(!%.0%(/-+0* +0-/3- ,1! 2%/$#!+)!/-%)-(!/%(!.$! *+-/$.% !%.(%*! 2%/$!((!*%./% .//0!./'!*"-+)/$! !%+*%* +. 8++5 Entrance to Ancient Rhodes exhibition.!!,

The Chamber of the Nine Muses.'8'1'9+

+11+3/89/)248'/) ,+'9:7/3-(:898 4,9.+/3+ :8+84, 7++0 2>9.

$%.%),+.%*#!*/-*! 0%(/3/$!*%#$/.$./2%* $+-.!.$+!.$,! /+2!-.2%/$ .2((+2/%(/0--!/.$!+/ +"-).%./$/+"-* ./!- !(%((!*!01!2$+ -0(! "-+) /+

Entrance Street of the Knights

.!!,, 4 The First Chamber
9.)+39:7>).4/789'118,+' 9:7+8'1'9++11+3/89/)248'/) Entrance to Medieval Rhodes exhibition.!!,

The Second Chamber.'8

'1'9++11+ 3/89/)248'/) '3*)'7;+* ).4/789'118

STAR FEATURES

THE FIRST GRAND MASTER $.+,/7897'3*'89+747'-3:8'-/89+7 4,9.+3/-.98<'84:10+8*+%/11'7+9 ? '7+3).03/-.9+3+-49/'9+* 94(:>".4*+8,7429.+47*4,9.+4*+) '3+8+*2/7'1%/-3414*+%/-341/$./81+,9 9.+3/-.98 (+)'2+7+2'/3+*.+7+ :39/19.+/7+=5:18/43/3

$.+%/11'7+9 3'2+1/;+843/3 %/11'7@43+4, 9.+/81'3*8 <./9+
Central Courtyard Medusa Chamber Main Gate

Foulkes de Villaret

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Access to the Turkish garden

SOUTH SIDE

The Archaeological Museum

3%%0 :%625-+-1%//<7,) ): 263-7%/2*7,)1-+,76

To Inn of England

The Inn of Provence(!3#/!43/&!2-33%4).4(%7!,,

(%92%02%3%.44(%2$%2/&4(%.)'(43/&4/(. 4(%/9!,/53%/&2!.#%2!.$!34%2 $%,!22%44/!.$4(%.)'(4$%,/4! Agía Triáda, or French Chapel

NORTH SIDE Palace of the Grand Masters

Arched bridge connecting Inn of Spain and Inn of Provence

281()(-17,) 7,')1785<&<0)5 ',%176*5200%/*-7,)5()52* 263-7%//)562*7,)1-+,762*!72,1 +8%5()(7,)2/< !)38/',5)%1(7)1()( ,5-67-%13-/+5-06-1)586%/)0",)< &)'%0)%0-/-7%5<25()5%*7)57,)-567 Coat of arms 586%() =&87,%(727%.)5)*8+) of Foulkes de -1<3586:,)1)586%/)0*)//-1 Villaret, first ",)<7,)1&28+,7 ,2()6*5207,) Grand Master )12)6)3-5%7)(0-5%/#-+12/--1 %1()9)178%//<'2148)5)(7,) ,2(-%16-1 5%1(%67)5:%6)/)'7)(*25/-*)72+29)517,)5()5 The Knights7%2%$2!7.&2/- :,-',:%6(-9-()(-1726)9)1"21+8)6251%7-21%/-7-)6 ./",%/-!.!4(/,)#&!-),)%3 (/3%7(/%.4%2%$4(%2$%2/& 5%1')7%/<1+/%1()50%1<529)1')!3%-1%1( 4(%.)'(43/&4/(.37/2% 89)5+1)%',"21+8)3527)'7)(%1%5)%2*'-7<:%// 6/73/&#(!34)49/"%$)%.#%!.$ .12:1%6%857%-1",) 1-+,76*257-*-)(7,)2()'% 0/6%249,4(/5'(+.)'(43(%,$ 1)6):-7,%5281('%67/)6%1(7,)-5()*)1')6%5)620) !,,4(%-!*/2/&&)#%34(%2%7%2% 2*7,)*-1)67);%03/)62*0)(-)9%/0-/-7%5<%5',-7)'785) !,3/,!9"2/4(%23

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp309–12 and pp334–6

!

Odos Ippotón4(%42%%4/&4(%.)'(43,)%3 !,/.'!3%#4)/./&!.#)%.42/!$4(!4,%$!,, 4(%7!9$/7.4/4(%(!2"/5247!3(%2%4(!4 4(%.)'(437/5,$-534%2).4)-%3/&!44!#+

Archway to Ippárchou

Palace of the Grand Masters Arched bridge connecting Inn of Spain and Inn of Provence Archway to Láchitos

The Inn of Spain)3/.%/&4(%,!2'%34)..3 43!33%-",9(!,,7!3/6%2 31- 31&4.4(%%84%2)/24(%2%)3!3-!,,!.$ 3)-0,%#/!4/&!2-3/&4(%0!.)3( /.'5%

The Inn of France’s!2-/2)!, "%!2).'3!2%4(%2%.#(2/9!, &,%52$%,93!.$4(/3%/&2!.$ !34%2%4253$-"/)3% The Inn of Italy(!3!-!2",% %3#54#(%/."%!2).'4(%!2-3/& 4(%2!.$!34%2!"2)#)53 $%,!22%44/

Palace of Grand Master Villiers de l’Isle Adam (1521–34)

The Great Siege of Rhodes).

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Inn of Auvergne

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Government House, previously the Italian Governor’s Palace

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26 km (16 miles) SW of Rhodes town.

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&1. <*42*6:.,76;<:=,<2767/<1. <*42*6;=;.-2<*0*26/7:0=6 87;2<276;-=:260(7:4-(*: 6201<; <1,.6<=:A,1=:,1 7/<1.'2:026 *:A&1. &1.764A:.56*6<7/<1. *,:78742;2;<1.:-,.6<=:A ,1=:,12;*,7584.@7//7=: 36 km (22 miles) SW of Rhodes town. Temple of Athena Polias ,1*8.4;<1.5*2676.+=24< Tel 22410 40037. Tue–Sun. and Zeus Poliefs+A<1. 26 4.*-;<7<1:..7<1.:; main public hols. to lower ,1=:,17/027;.J:027;&1. &1.266.:57;<,1*8.41*;* sections only. :.;<7:.-42761.*-/7=6<*26<7 AB*6<26./477:-.,7:*<.- ?2<1*:.-57;*2,/2;1 2;,7>.:.-26 <12;7:2, <1.;7=<12; <1,.6<=:A ,2260,755=62.-4*;;2,*4:..3,2<2.; &1.:.*:.:.5*26;7/*:- ,.6<=:A7:2,<.584.*6 *4<*:<7.427;8=+42,+*<1;*6- *<1,.6<=:A,2;<.:6?12,1 ;=8842.- /*5242.;&1.<1 ,.6<=:A&.584.7/<1.6* #742*;2;76<1.<78<.::*,. +.47??12,1*:.:.5*26;7/<1. Moní Filerímou in its woodland setting 7:2,;<7* 5 /<4760 For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp309–12 and pp334–6

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Monólithos castle in its precarious position overlooking the sea

50 km (30 miles) SW of Rhodes town. 100.

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55 km (34 miles) SW of Rhodes town. 1,500.

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Environs

.244*0.7/Siána2;/*57=;/7: 2<;176.A*6-/2.:A D* 326-7/0:*8.;82:2<423.<1. !*5.-*/<.:2<; 76742<1* :.<*6:*32&1.>244*0.:;?.:. ,:*0?2<1*-:*5*<2, 5 0:*6<.-*42,.6,.+A<1. <*42*6;<75*3.<1.;82:2<*6- /<-:78<7<1.;.* 76J42<17;2;<1.57;<2587: A7=,*6;*584.+7<1<1./2:. ?*<.:*6-176.A*<<1.:7*- <*6<>244*0.26<1.;7=<1?.;< %2<=*<.-*<<1./77<7/ 7=6< ;2-.,*/G;&1.>244*0.17=;.; 3:*5L<2;<1.>244*0.2; 35 1*>.<:*-2<276*4,4*A:77/; 524./:75Monólithos *6-<1.-75.-,1=:,17/ castle&12;258:.06*+4. <1 Agios Panteleïmon1*;:. ,.6<=:A/7:<:.;;+=24<+A:*6- ;<7:.- <1,.6<=:A/:.;,7.; *;<.:-=+=;;762;8.:,1.- ;8.,<*,=4*:4A76<1.>*;<0:.A :7,3<;5*;;2>.?*44;.6,47;.
Tel 22440 46006. to Apolakkiá. daily.

Sunset over the village of Emponas and Mount Attávyros

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40 km (25 miles) S of Rhodes town. to Laérma. daily.

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33 km (20 miles) S of Rhodes town. 3,000. Stégna 3 km (2 miles) E.

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Charáki village with the castle of Faraklós in the background For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp309–12 and pp334–6

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85)1?Ladikó Bay/9=58:.'

10 km (6 miles) S of Rhodes town. 1,200. Réni Koskinoú 2 km (1 mile) NE.

The sandy beach at Tsampíka

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26 km (16 miles) S of Rhodes town. to Kolýmpia. Tsampíka 5 km (3 miles) SE.

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15 km (9 miles) S of Rhodes town. 400.

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Environs

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A church with a tiered bell tower in Koskinoú village

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A traditional Líndian doorway

Exploring Líndos Village

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Líndos lace seller on the steps to the acropolis

THE ACROPOLIS AT LINDOS !+7).+*43'8.++757+)/5/)+

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp309–12 and pp334–6

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 1 km (0.5 mile) E of Líndos village. Tel 22440 31900. Jul–Sep: 8am–7pm Tue–Sun, noon– 7pm Mon; Oct–Jun: 8:30am– 3:20pm Tue–Sun. main public hols.

Environs

The acropolis overlooking Líndos town and bay

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Vaulted structures

The Doric stoa<'8(:/19 /39.+7*)+39:7>

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Temple of Lindian Athena, 4th century BC

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Propylaia

Doric stoa

The palace4,9.+ )422'3*+74, 9.+,4797+88<'8 '**+*/39.+ 5+7/4*4,9.+ 3/-.98

Medieval entrance to the acropolis

Roman temple of Diocletian, 3rd century AD

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Nimporió with Agios Nikólaos church towering above the surrounding buildings

%/,4(05:0./;05 047690D0: ;6>5/(33(5+76:;6--0*,73<:( -05,:;65,*36*2;6>,9 ,(9)@ ;/,*/<9*/6-Agios Nikólaos >0;/0;:,3,.(5;),33;6>,9;/, 0::(5+@Póntamos),(*/ /0./,:;05;/,6+,*(5,:, >/0*/0:8<0,;(5+:/(336> 280. Nimporió. Piátsa, ;0,9,+302,(>,++05.*(2, (5+:<0;()3,-69*/03+9,5 Nimporió (22460 45333). Chorió: %/,*/<9*/0:(3:6256>5-69 Panagía 15 Aug. Nimporió. Around the Island 0;:4(.50-0*,5;)3(*2(5+ www.chalki.gr >/0;, 7,))3,46:(0* %/,0:3(5+0:(346:;;9(--0* /B320>(:65*,(;/90=05. *6<9;@(9++,70*;05.)09+:(5+ -9,,:60;0:0+,(3-69>(32,9: :765.,-0:/05.0:3(5+)<;>(: ;/,;9,,6-30-,%/,>(;*/-<3 5/6<9:>(32<7/033-964 =09;<(33@()(5+65,+>/,50;: ,@,7(05;,+6=,9;/,4(05 047690D0:;/,()(5+65,+ :765.,+0=,9:,40.9(;,+;6 +6690:;6>(9+6--,=03:7090;: -694,9*(70;(36-Chorió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imporió )<;6**(:065(33@9,++0:/>,+.,+ /B320:/(9)6<9(5+653@ ;6.,;/,9;6-694(2(3,0+6:*67, :,;;3,4,5; 047690D0:( 6-9(0:,+7(;;,95:,7;>,;;/, 8<0,;(5+70*;<9,:8<,=033(., 46:(0*:(3:6/,37,+;62,,7 >0;/( ,63(::0*(3-3(=6<9 /6<:,:*66305;/,/,(; (93@,?(473,:-,(;<9,+():;9(*; -694(3(5+4(053@.,64,;90* +,:0.5::<*/(:*09*3,:(;,965 A choklákia mosaic outside ;/,+,*69(;065:),*(4,469, Moní Taxiárchi in Sými -3(4)6@(5;>0;/-369(37(;;,95: (5+:@4)63:+,70*;05.;/,30=,: 6-;/,/6<:,/63+,9:>0;/:/07: -0:/(5+;9,,::0+,-964 /B320;/,/6<:,:6-C5+6: (3:6/(=,-05,46:(0*:

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Χλκη

journey home For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp309–12 and pp334–6

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A traditional housefront in Kastellórizo town

6>,=,9)<03+05.:(9,),05. 9,:;69,+(:;6<90:4+,=,367: %/, ;(30(5-034 >(::,;/,9,(5+:05*,;/,5 ;/,0:3(5+/(:(;;9(*;,+4(5@ ;(30(5;6<90:;: 0./30./;:>69;/:,,05. 05*3<+,;/,,3,.(5;*(;/,+9(3 6- Agioi Konstantínos kai Eléni05*69769(;05..9(50;, *63<45:-964;/,%,473,6- 7633605"(;(9(5(;630( 964;6>5(7(;/3,(+:<7 ;6-6<9>/0;,*/<9*/,:(5+ ;/, Palaiókastro%/0:690* -69;9,::(5+(*967630:/(:( 9+*,5;<9@05:*907;06565 ;/,.(;,9,-,9905.;6,.C:;0 )6(;;907:6<;/,(:;-964 (:;,33D90A6;6>5;6;/, :7,*;(*<3(9 Parastá Cave :/6<3+56;),40::,+0;0: -(4,+-690;::;(3(*;0;,:(5+ ;/,:;9(5.,30./;,--,*;:65 ;/,=0=0+)3<,>(;,9: Castle Museum Kastellórizo town. Tel 22460 49283. Tue–Sun. main public hols.

Καστελλριζο

275. 2.5 km (1.5 miles) S of Kastellórizo town. Kastellórizo town. 500 m (1,640 ft) N of port (22460 49333).

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Kastellórizo town with Turkey in the background

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SARIA

Κρπαθο

Chálki, Rhodes

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Vroukoúnda

Avlóna•

Olympos • • Diafáni

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Kárpathos Town

Apélla

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D97(;/6:;6>5(3:6256>5 Kalí Límni Lefkós (:!0.D+0(0:;/,0:3(5+:4(05 769;(5+*(70;(3:/,3;,9,+05 685 m • Kyrá 2,250 ft ;/,:6<;/,(:;6-%9G5;0:)(@ Panagiá Apéri 5*,(569+05(9@>69205. Othos ;6>50;56>/(:/6;,3::;9<5. 6<;(33(96<5+;/,)(@$/, >(;,9-965;0:)<:;305.>0;/ KARPATHOS TOWN *(-E:(5+9,:;(<9(5;:;/(; Menetés :,9=,05;,95(;065(3-(9, 0 kilometres 5 776:0;,;/,;(30(5(;, Arkása Profítis Ilías • Amoopí ;6>5/(33Kárpathos 0 miles 3 510 m park/(:(567,5 A R M AT H I A 1,670 ft Crete (09+0:73(@6-(5*0,5; (Siteía) Fr´y 6)1,*;: ?/0)0;: Agía Marína 05*3<+,(5,(93@ /90:;0(54(9)3, KASOS -65;(5+6)1,*;: Crete +0:*6=,9,+05 (Siteía, Irákleio) ),(*/,: )6=, Around the Island

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The historical village of Olympos, sitting high in the hills of northern Kárpathos

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 5,000. 17 km (11 miles) S of Kárpathos town. Kárpathos town, Diáfani. corner of 28th Oktovríou & Dimokratías, Kárpathos town. Kárpathos town (22450 22222). Panagía at Olympos: 15 Aug.

Outlying Islands

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Nov–Mar. /69:,:/6,)(@:6->/0;,:(5+ 6- Armáthia 5;/,,(:;*6(:;Kyrá Panagiá>0;/0;:7052+64,+ THE TRADITIONS OF OLYMPOS */<9*/0:(56;/,9),(<;0-<3 $/,*6:;<4,6-;/,>64,56- 3@476: *6=,6--05,>/0;,:(5+ *65:0:;:6->/0;,7(5;(3665:>0;/(5 Apélla;/,5,?;),(*/(365. ,4)960+,9,+;<50*69(+(92:209;>0;/( 0:(:;<5505.*9,:*,5;6-:(5+ 365.7(;;,95,+(7965()90*:(9,/,(=03@ >0;/(A<9,>(;,9 ,4)960+,9,+05304,.9,,5:03=,9(5+ Diafáni(:4(33*636<9-<3 )90./;7052:(<./;,9:>,(9(*633(96- =033(.,65;/,569;/,(:;*6(:; .63+*605:(5+*/(05:;605+0*(;,;/,09 /(:(/(5+-<36-;(=,95(:(5+ :;(;<:(5+(;;9(*;:<0;69:$/,:6*0,;@ /6;,3:(5+)6;/:(5+(5+ >(:65*,:;90*;3@4(;90(9*/(3$6+(@;/, :/05.3,),(*/,: 405<;, 46;/,97(::,:65/,97967,9;@;6;/, Matriarch at the )<:90+,(>(@0:;/,=033(.,6- -09:;)695+(<./;,9(5+;/,-(;/,9;6/0: Olympos windmills Olympos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nterior of an Olympos house ;9(*23,(+:569;/;6Avlóna 05/()0;,+653@05;/,/(9=,:; For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp309–12 and pp334–6

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The tiered, whitewashed houses of Triandáros village, Tínos

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Káto Kástro and Plateía Ríva

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)6,.16,; $0-+)81<)46,:7; 16;<:=5-6<;76,1;84)A1; .:75<0- <0 <7?67:0J:)1;47+)<-, +-6<=:A +1:17 ):+01<-+<=:)4144=;<:)<176;

)6,,-,1+)<-,<7 6-4-/)6<<7?6?1<0 )6,)4):/-+744-+<1767. <0-%1:/16):A 5)/61.1+1-6< -7 4);;1+)4*=14,16/;1< +-:)51+; -/-6,0);1<<0)< 1;<0-075-7.;75- <0-8:1-;<+7=4, $0- Museum of Modern Art?01+0 7. :--+-;?-)4<0 67<)..7:,<0- 1-;<;0187?6-:; ?);-6,7?-,*A<0- ?77,.7:<0- $0-8-,-;<:1)61B-, 7=4)6,:H;.)514A0); +0=:+0:77.;7<0- 5)16;<:--<1; )6-@+-44-6<+744-+ ;018,-41>-:16/<0- 8)>-,?1<0 <1767.8)16<16/; ?77,;-<;)14)/)16 5):*4-;4)*; *A <0+-6<=:A <:)616<7);<7:5 The Hermes of Andros, in )6,416-,?1<0 )6,<0-+:-?8:)A-, ):<1;<;;=+0); the Archaeological Museum Statue of the 74,5)6;176; <7<0-%1:/16.7: !1+);;7)6, Unknown :)9=-)6,4-), 0-488:751;16/<7 +76>-:<-,16<7 Sailor :-<=:6<0-+):/7<7 16/ :--3):<1;<;;=+0); 8=*41+7..1+-;)576/<0- 4G37;);1)6J;$0-;+=48<=:- 6,:7;$0-;-); )6,;5)44;078; /):,-60);?7:3;*A1+0F41; ?-:-51:)+=47=;4A+)45-,)6, Plateía Kaïri <0-+0=:+0*-+)5-367?6); $J58:7; D $01;1;<0-5)16;9=):-16<0- $0-7;3G8);<15-)616/ Archaeological Museum <7?6; "H>),1;<:1+<)6,1; C;0-4<-:-,*A7,E Plateía Kaïri. Tel 22820 23664. 075-<7<0-Archaeological Tue–Sun. Mon, main Maritime Museum Museum*=14<16 $0public hols. Plateía Ríva. Tel 22820 22275. 5=;-=5;57;<.)57=; Apr–Sep: Wed–Mon; Oct–Mar: Museum of Modern Art -@01*1<1;<0- 6,+-6<=:A Fri–Sun. main public hols. Plateía Kaïri. Tel 22820 22444. ).16- 5):*4-+78A7.<0- <0+-6<=:A Wed–Mon. main public hols. except Sun. Environs *:76B-7:1/16)4 <0-: Steniés35 514-; 67:<0?-;<7.6,:7;<7?6 1;>-:A*-)=<1.=4)6,878=4): ?1<0?-)4<0A;018816/.)5141-; 1.<--6516=<-;?)43;7=<0 ?-;<7.#<-61G;<0- <0 +-6<=:A8H;<1;7=>-4F; <7?-:1;).16--@)584-7. )6 6,:17<07=;- -47? #<-61G;41-;Giália *-)+0?0-:-<0-:-1;).1;0 <)>-:6))6,<:--;.7:;0),- 6 Apoíkia35 514-; ?-;<516-:)4?)<-:1;*7<<4-, .:75<0-#F:1B);8:16/'7=+)6 <);<-<0-?)<-:;)<<0-;8:16/ Typical white houses and a small church in Káto Kástro

$0-67:<0-:657;<7.<0-A+4),-;6,:7;1;4=;0 )6,/:--616<0-;7=<0;+7:+0-,)6,*)::-616<0- 67:<0 $0-.1-4,;):-,1>1,-,*A,1;<16+<1>-,:A;<76- ?)44; $0-1;4)6,?);.1:;<+74761B-,*A<0-761)6;16 6<0- <0+-6<=:A 6,:7;;1,-,?1<0 #8):<),=:16/<0-!-478766-;1)6&): .<-: %-6-<1)6:=4-<0-$=:3;<77387?-:16 =6<14 <0-&):7.6,-8-6,-6+- 6,:7;0);476/*--6<0- 0741,)A0)=6<7.?-)4<0A<0-61)6;018816/.)5141-;

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp313–7 and pp336–8

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

!:7;8-:7=;6-)<)6,,7<<-,?1<05)6A ?01<-,7>-+7<-;.1:;<*=14<*A<0- %-6-<1)6;6,:7;:-<)16;1<;<:),1<176)4 +0):5?014-84)A16/07;<<716<-:6)<176)4 0741,)A5)3-:;$0-:-):-)6=5*-:7. =6;8714-,;)6,A*-)+0-;?)<-:;87:< Lion’s head fountain in Ménites .)+141<1-;?14,57=6<)16;)6,)/77, 6--:=64-;; A7=):-)3--6<:-33-:+):7:*13-01:-1;-;;-6<1)4 );<0-*=;;-:>1+-1;9=1<-4151<-,

9,000. Gávrio. 22820 22275. Agios Panteleïmon Festival at Moní Panachrántou: 27 Jul.

12 km (7 miles) SW of Andros town. Tel 22820 51090. daily.

$01;;8-+<)+=4):576);<-:A1; 8-:+0-, 5

.<)*7>- 367?6*7<0.7:1<;61/0<16 ;-)4->-416<0-57=6<)16; /)4-;)6,.7:<0-<)>-:6) ;7=<0?-;<7.6,:7;<7?6 7>-:477316/);<:-)5#<-8; <+)6*-:-)+0-,-1<0-:*A) 8 km (5 miles) SW of Andros town. 4-),=8<7<0-8:-<)4 !4-6<1.=4<07=/0<<7*-*=14< 144)/-7.-;):1F?1<0:=16-, 76<0-;1<-7.)6)6+1-6< 131.J:7;73F;?074)<-: *-+)5- AB)6<16- 58-:7:); <7?-:07=;-;)6,<0-8)6<14-, $-584-7.176A;7; :-?):,.7:01;0-48 AB)6<16-+0=:+07.<0- 16<0-41*-:)<1767. Taxiárchis*=14<*A58-:7: :-<-.:75:)* 5)6=-4756-6=;16 )6,:-+-6<4A:-;<7:-, 7++=8)<176 $0.7:<1.1-,576);<-:A #8:16/;/=;0.:755):*4- 4176;0-),.7=6<)16;16<0- 1;*=14<16AB)6 4-).A>144)/-7.Ménites2=;< <16-;--;):1FG61<-;1; <7,)A07=;-;2=;< <0:--5763;$0SIGHTS AT A GLANCE +0=:+0074,;5)6A <:-);=:-;16+4=,16/ 6,:7;$7?6 <0-;3=447./17; F>:17 !)6<-4-I576 -;):1F *-41->-,<70)>- 76H!)6)+0:F6<7= 0-)416/87?-:; 8)<;H %1;1<7:;.47+30-:- !)4)1J3);<:7 <7;--<0-;3=4476 <0-;)16<;)66=)4 Moní Panachrántou overlooking the valley .-;<1>)4,)A

Kalyvári

Aténi Agios Giália Apoíkia Steniés Pétros Ano Gávrio Zoödóchos Varsamiá ANDROS TOWN Pigí Arnás Ménites Káto Fellós Gávrio Katákoilos Mesariá Mpatsí Delavógias Rafína, Skiáthos Moní Panachrántou Ancient Palaiókastro Palaiópoli Kórthio

S´yros, Tinos

KEY For key to map see back flap

0 kilometres

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6+562+35<+*:5 +9'8/D(& : ='92'8-+2?*+9:85?+* 18 km (11 miles) SW of Andros town. /4:.+ :.)+4:;8? unrestricted access. (?'4+'8:.7;'1+(;: /-.54'85)1?62':+'; 6'8:5,:.+')85652/9 /42'4*/9:.+8;/4+*$+4+:/'4 /99:/22
9:'4*9 3,:./-./4'4 ':3596.+8+#.+3'/4(+'). Γαριο 52/<+-85<+(+25=:.+.'32+: /9656;2'8=/:.,'3/2/+9=./2+ 450. Fellós 4 km (2.5 5,D:5-/59 E:859#.+ Delavógias(+').95;:. ;66+89:58+?95,:.+:5=+8 miles) NW. '254-:.+)5'9:'2:8')1/9' =+8+8+').+*(?,55:.52*9 D<8/5/9'8':.+8).'8'):+8 ,'<5;8/:+=/:.4':;8/9:9-F' '4*'4/4:+84'22'**+8'4*/:9 2+99658:=./).':=++1+4*9 /44+8.'22='954)+)85=4+* '8F4',;8:.+8'254-.'9' (+)53+96')1+*=/:.:.+4 (?')58(+22+**53+#.+ ,8/+4*2?,'3/2?8;4:'<+84' /'49.+'*/4-,58:.+/8.52/*'? 6;8659+5,:.+:5=+88+3'/49 Environs .53+9#.+8+/9'(+').' '3?9:+8?'2:.5;-./:3'? "5;:.5,6':9F:.+58/-/4'2 -55*)'369/:+'4*62+4:?5, .'<+(++4(;/2::59+8<+'9 )'6/:'25,4*859Ancient :'<+84'9;8/4-:.+./-. '=':).:5=+8:5-;'8*:.+ Palaiópoli='9/4.'(/:+*;4:/2 9+'954/:)'4(+:.+542? 4+'8(?3/4+9,853'::')1(? '85;4* =.+4:.+ 62')+=/:.85539'<'/2'(2+'9 3'8';*/4-6/8':+9 58:.5,D<8/5:.+8+'8+ -55*(+').+9(+?54*:.+
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp313–7 and pp336–8

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?:B93,>9,==:B>?=00?>B34?0 /@=492?30=006),=:19/0 B,>30/3:@>0>,9/,-@>?7492 ;09/09.0 %4>?0=#07,2H,, ;:=?7490/B4?3=0>?,@=,9?> 9@9,? :9H0.3=:A:@9H:@ ,9/3:?07> 3,/A4>4:9>:1?30(4=249 ,=D >3:B492B30=0,94.:93,/ Panagía Evangelístria -009-@=40/9 ,.?492 :9?309@9>/4=0.?4:9>0C.,A Church & museums daily. Tel 22830 22256. ,?4:9>=0A0,70/?304.:9:1?30 %4?@,?0/,??30?:;:1 02,7I [email protected],?4:9:1?30=.3,9207 .3,=4?308,49>?=00??3,?=@9> ,-=407@9>.,?30/,1?0= @;1=:8?3010==D#,9,2H, D0,=>@9/0=2=:@9/9:B949 A,9207H>?=4,?30.3@=.3:1 =00.0,>?30 02,7I.3,=4 ?30 [email protected],?4:9/:849,?0> ?30 =0,?:D?304.:9B,> 1:@9/?:3,A030,7492;:B0=> &H9:>?:B9&30;0/0>?=4,9 ,9/?30.3@=.3-0.,80 4E0/ A,9 ,;472=48,20.09?=0 2074>?=H,> 1:="=?3:/:C B34.3=@9> ;,=,7707?: Pánormos 02,7I.3,=4 Pýrgos 4>;,.60/B4?3 Pilgrim crawling to the >?,77>1@77:14.:9> Panagía Evangelístria Kolympíthres • ,9/A:?4A0:110= • 492> @47?49 Istérnia

Τ#νο

• Kalloní Mýkonos, Vólos

• Kómi

Kámpos • Kiónia • Stavrós •

KEY For key to map see back flap

0 kilometres 0 miles

5 3

TINOS TOWN

Sýros, Páros

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp313–7 and pp336–8

Exómpourgo • Potamiá Santa • • Margarita Kechrovouníou •

Moní

• Agios Ioánnis • Agios Fokás Andros, Skiáthos, Thessaloníki

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 9,000. Tínos town. Quay, Tínos town. corner of Kioníon & Vlacháki, Tínos town (22830 29146). Annunciation & Panagía at Panagía Evangelístrias, Tínos town: 25 Mar & 15 Aug.

:1 %? 709, @47?-D?3034>4 1,847D,1?0=?30:203,9/0/ :A0=?304>7,9/?:?30849 ?301:=?=0>>B,>?30?:@230>? >?=:923:7/49?30D.7,/0> @9?474?>@==09/0=0/?:?30 The pretty village of Pýrgos in the north of the island &@=6>49 *:@.,9>00 =08,49>:1,10B,9.409?B,77> Kechrovouníou:90:1?30 :9?30.=,280/40A,73:@>0> 7>:B4?349?30.:8;70C4> 7,=20>?.:9A09?>49=00.0 ,1:@9?,49,9/?3=00.3@=.30> ,8@>0@8B4?34?08>-D =:8I84?:?309:=?3, *:@.,9A4>4??30.077B30=0 7:.,7>.@7;?:=>,9/;,49?0=> 49.7@/492B:=6>-D>.@7;?:=> %4>?0=#07,2H,3,/30=A4>4:9> A,770D=@9>/:B9?:?30>0,,? KolympíthresB4?3?B:>,9/D ,9/?30.30>?B30=030=08 9?I94:> %I.3:> 0I=24:> -,D>:904>/0>0=?0/?30:?30= (4?G74>,9/:G994>(:K72,=4> -,780/30,/4>60;? ? 8 1?3423?30 3,>=::8>,9/?,A0=9,> &30,=?2,770=D3,>B:=6>:1 ?30:94,9%.3::7,$@-09>, 2=0,?=:.6:1Exómpourgo "A0=7::6492?303,=-:@=:1 B,>?30>4?0:1?30=.3,4. #G9:=8:>49?309:=?3B0>?:1 $08-=,9/?,9/ ?3.09?@=D B:=6>-D49?0=9,?4:9,7,=?4>?> .4?D:1&H9:>,9/7,?0=-0.,80 ?304>7,9/?30;=0??DA477,20 3:80?:?30(090?4,91:=?=0>> :1 Pýrgos4>1,8:@>1:=4?> Archaeological Museum >.@7;?@=0>.3::7&30,=0,4> 69:B91:=4?>2=0098,=-70 Megalóchari Tel 22830 22670. Tue–Sun. main public hols. ,9/?30>?:90B:=630=04> "9 02,7I.3,=490,=?30 ,8:92?301490>?49?304>7,9/> .3@=.34>?30=.3,0:7:24.,7 4>?49.?4A0.,=A0/8,=-701,9 @>0@8B34.33,>/4>;7,D> 7423?>,9/-,7.:940>/0.:=,?0 :1>.@7;?@=0>:190=04/>>0, ?304>7,9/A477,20>&30=0,=0 9D8;3>,9//:7;349>1:@9/ 0C,8;70>,??304,99:K74> ,??30%,9.?@,=D:1#:>04/:9 3,70;G> @>0@83:@>0/ ,9/ 8;34?=4?0 &30=04>,7>: 49?301:=80=3:80:1?30 , >?.09?@=D >@9/4,7-D 4>7,9/>=09:B90/>.@7;?:= 9/=:946:>D==0>?0>B3: F &30:7/2=,88,= >.3::74>9:B?30%.3::7:1 /0>4290/?309>&:B0=:1?30 )49/>

,9/>:80 490 =?>,9/,>3:;49?30 3@20?3.09?@=D >?:=,20 8,49><@,=00C34-4?>,9/>077> 5,=>1=:8,9.409?&H9:>:9 B:=6>-D?30>?@/09?> ?30=:.6:1CI8;:@=2: Giannoúlis Chalepás

Environs

,>?:1?:B9?30.7:>0>? -0,.34>>34927DAgios Fokás &:?30B0>?4>?30;:;@7,= -0,.3,?StavrósB4?3,50??D ?3,?B,>-@47?497,>>4.,7 ?480>&:?309:=?390,=4I94, ,=0?301:@9/,?4:9>:1?30 ?3 .09?@=D Sanctuary of Poseidon and Amphitrite34> >0,9D8;3-=4/0&300C.,A, ?4:9>30=03,A0D407/0/8,9D .:7@89>:= ,1?0=B34.3 ?30>@==:@9/492,=0,4>9,80/ Around the Island

&H9:>4>0,>D?:0C;7:=0,>?30=0 ,=0;709?D:1?,C4>,9/,2::/ -@>>0=A4.0,=:@9/?304>7,9/ !:=?3:1&H9:>?:B94>?30 ?3.09?@=DB,770/Moní

The interior of the 12th-century Moní Kechrovouníou

Museum Pýrgos. daily. Oct–Apr.

THE PERISTERIONES (DOVECOTES) OF TINOS &30A477,20>:1&H9:>,=0 >?@//0/B4?3,=:@9/ -0,@?41@7B34?0/:A0.:?0> ,7707,-:=,?07D /0.:=,?0/ &30D3,A0?B: >?:=0D>?307:B0=17::=4>1:= >?:=,20?30@;;0=3:@>0>?30 /:A0>,9/4>@>@,77D?:;;0/ B4?3>?D74E0/B4920/1494,7>:= 8:.6/:A0>&30-=00/492:1 /:A0>B,>49?=:/@.0/-D?30 (090?4,9>7?3:@23,7>:1:@9/ :9?304>7,9/>:19/=:>,9/ %H19:>?30 :1 A dovecote in Kámpos with &H9:>,=0.:9>4/0=0/?301490>? traditional elaborate patterns

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Μκονο

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The famous Paraportianí church

Archaeological Museum Harbourfront. Tel 22890 22325. Tue–Sun. main public hols.

Folk Museum Harbourfront. Tel 22890 22591. Apr–Oct: 5–8pm Mon–Sat.

Maritime Museum of the Aegean Enóplon Dynámeon. Tel 22890 22700. Apr–Oct: daily. main public hols.

Lena’s House Enóplon Dynámeon. Apr–Oct: daily. limited.

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 4,500. 3 km (1.5 mile) SE of Mýkonos town. Mýkonos town. Polykandrióti, Mýkonos town (for north of island); on road to Ornós, Mýkonos town (for south of island). Harbourfront, Mýkonos town (22890 22201); Plateía Karaóli & Dimitríou. Fishermen’s Festival, Mýkonos town: 30 Jun. www.mykonos.gr

7.<0->144)/-1;!)4)1H3);<:7 014476+-+:7?6-,*A)&-6- <1)6+);<4-<1;<07=/0<<7*- <0-;1<-7.76-7.<0-)6+1-6< +1<1-;7.I3767;$7,)A1<1; 075-<7<0- <0+-6<=:A ?7:316/ Moní Palaiokástrou $7<0-67:<0?-;<16<0-8:-<144)/-7.Maráthi1;76F /F7=!)6<-4-G576).7=6,-, 16 :750-:-<0-:7), 4-),;<7Pánormos Bay)6, Fteliá)?16,;=:.-:;8):),1;-

Municipal Art Gallery Matogiánni. Tel 22890 22615. Apr–Oct: daily.

Around the Island

Platýs Gialós beach, one of the best on Mýkonos

Pánormos Bay

Agios Stéfanos

Moní Fteliá Palaiokástrou Maráthi

MYKONOS TOWN

Páros, Donoúsa

Plat´ys Gialós

Kalafáti

Super Paradise

Agios Ioánnis

Ano Merá Panagía i Tourlianí

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KEY For key to map see back flap

The old houses of Little Venice, Mýkonos town

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp313–7 and pp336–8

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 2.5 km (1 mile) SW of Mýkonos town. Tel 22890 22259. 8–10am daily from Mýkonos town returning 12–2pm. 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun. 1 Jan, 25 Mar, Good Fri am, Easter Sun, Mon, 1 May, 25, 26 Dec.

Mount Kýnthos

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KEY Theatre quarter

STAR SIGHTS

Theatre Lion Terrace Theatre Quarter

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Σρο

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Town hall, designed by Ernst Ziller

8./.,C>2/@+=>/9 6+==3-+6town hall ./=318/.,C>2//<7+8 +<-23>/-><8=>*366/< $2/ Archaeological Museum?:>2/=>/:=>9>2/ 6/0>90>2/>9A82+6629?=/= ,<98D/+8.7+<,6/?>/8=36= 0<97>2/C-6+.3- =/>>6/7/8>902+6+8.<3+8I 6=998.3=:6+C++>?/>>/=+8."97+8038.= /0>90>2/>9A82+663=>2/ Historical Archives Office

:3DD/<3+=>2/1<+8.=;?+2/-3>C=2?,+8.7//>381 :6+-//=:/-3+66C09<>2/ /@/8381=><9669< $2/+8. +8.+=>+>?/./.3-+>/.>9>2/ 398+
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SIGHTS AT A GLANCE

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Ερμοπολη

13,000. Aktí Ethnikís Antístassis. Thymáton Sperchíon 11 (22810 86725).

6/1+8> <79K:9638+7/. +0>/< /<7/=>2/19.90 -977/<-/3=>2/6+<1/=>-3>C 38>2/C-6+./=8>2/ >2 -/8>?A+=+8.+7+49<-9+6381 =>+>398A3>2+2?1/8+>?<+6 2+<,9?<+8.>2<3@381=23:C+<. <9A8/.,C>2/>A38:/+5= 90+>2963-89 #L<9=>9>2/ 89<>2+8.>2/ <>29.9B &<98>F.9>9>2/=9?>2>2/-3>C 3=,?36>635/+8+7:23>2/+>2/2+<,9?< The Lower Town

Statue of Andréas Miaoúlis

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The twin peaks of Ermoúpoli: Ano Sýros and Vrondádo

Grámmata Bay

KEY

S´yringas

Sykamiá Kastrí

For key to map see back flap

Chalandrianí 0 kilometres

4

0 miles

2

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Delfíni Chartiána

Kíni

Armeós Galissás

Agía Varvára

Foínikas

Rafína, Skiáthos

Profítis Ilías

9

ERMOUPOLI

2

/

Agathopés

Agía Pákou

3

Agía Paraskeví

Poseidonía

Chroússa

3

Mégas Gialós

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp313–7 and pp336–8

Andros, Tínos

Vári

Mýkonos, Náxos, Páros

# ) "

MARKOS VAMVAKARIS 8/90>2/1/=> /B:98/8>=90 >2/ 22+=2 ./8=+8.>2/69A630/ A+=>2/7?=3- 90>2/?<,+8?8./<-6+== '3>2=><981CD+8>38/+8. =6+73-3806?/8-/=3>3= 90>/8:6+C/.98>2/ 9<>2/,9?D9?53 &+7@+5F<3=A+=+7+=>/< 90>2/,9?D9?53+=A/66+= +89>/.-97:9=/< @/< 2//+<63/=>90 A23-2.+>/=,+-5>9>2/ =,?=>90&+7@+5F<3= 6995=9?>>9=/+0<97>2/ =7+66=;?+/< 2373889 #L<9=

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 23,000. 1 km (0.5 miles) SE of Ermoúpoli. Ermoúpoli. Ermoúpoli (22810 86725). Ermoúpoli Maritime Festival: Jul; Agios Nikólaos processions at Ermoúpoli: 6 Dec.

#L<9=>2/+<9;?/Aï-Giórgis 589A8+=>2/-+>2/.<+690#> /9<1/A+=,?36>98>2/=3>/ 90+ >2-/8>?+38=038/3-98= $2//=?3>-693=>/2/-2?<-290 Marble iconostasis by Vitális, in the ?< +.C90+<7369? church of Agios Nikólaos +8.29?=/=,995=+8. 7+8?=-<3:>=383>=63,<+9 >2/-9+=>638/+,9@/>2/>9A8= 3>>2/+:?-238-98@/8>90 Agios IoánnisA+=+7//> ;?+C=+8.799<381=+> 381:6+-/+8.+<3++8. 0<97:3<+>/=>=-2?<-2 139= 35J6+9= A+=09?8./.,C9?3= $2/-2+<7381.3=><3-> 90 Vrontádo98>2/ (90<+8-/+=+ /+=>/<8:/+52+=+ :99<29?=/ 8?7,/<90/B-/66/8> Archaeological >+@/<8+==: Museum 983>==69:/=+>8312> Plateía Miaoúli. Tel 22810 $2/ CD+8>38/-2?<-2 88487. Tue–Sun.

A ceiling in one 90>2/Anástasis98 main public hols. limited. of Ermoúpoli’s >9:90>2/23662+= Historical Archives mansions @3/A=>9$I89=+8. Office L5989= Plateía Miaoúli. Tel 22810 86891. 2+6029?<=-637,+6981 73<9K9<+,<3/0,?=<3./3= 8:30am–2pm Mon–Fri. >2/09<>303/.7/.3/@+6;?+<>/< main public hols. Vamvakáris Museum 90 Ano Sýros98>2/A/=>/<8 :/+5>3=+6=9589A8+=:F89 Plateía Vamvakári, Ano Sýros. 2J<+9<F=><9 8>2/A+C3= Tel 22810 82934. Jun–Sep: daily. main public hols. >2/ <>29.9B-/7/>/381=909D+<> Agios GeórgiosA3>2 +8.&/<.3+8.3==>366?=/.09< 3>=/6+,9<+>/7+<,6/ :6+C=+8.-98-/<>= 7+?=96/?7= 89 -<9==>2/=>>2/ #L<9=3=+7+D/90 Velissarópoulos Mansion A23>/A+=2/.:+= 89A29?=381>2/+,9?< =+1/=+<-2/=+8. %83982+=+8/6+,9<+>/ =>/:=09<7381+ 7+<,6/0+G+./+8.=:6/8.3. 2?..6/9038>/<6385381 :+38>/.-/36381=+8.7?<+6= 29?=/= $2/+<-23>/- /C98.2/2/-2?<-290 >?2+ >2/79=>9073837+6 7+<,6/3-989=>+=3=,C>2/ >2 =:+-/A3>2 -/8>?9<&3>F63=6=9 =6+>/9<=><+A<990= ,C&3>F63=3=>2/A9<6.=03<=> +8.>312>-9<8/<=$2/ 798?7/8>90>2/?8589A8 7+38/8><+8-/38>9 =96.3/<380<98>90>2/-2?<-2 89 #L<9=3=+7F<+ +8+8-3/8>:+==+1/ A+C6/+.38138>9>2/ The Upper Town $2/>A38,/66>9A/<=+8..3= 7+38<9+.9=+ >38->3@/,6?/+8.196..97/90 $2/ Vamvakáris 139= 35J6+9=7+<5>2/=>+<> Museum./.3-+>/. 90>2/Vapória.3=><3->/9>2/630/+8.A9<5 #L<9===23:9A8/<=,?36>>2/3< 90F<59=&+7@+ /96+==3-+67+8=398=A3>2 5F<3=3==3>?+>/. =97/90>2/038/=>:6+=>/900>23=<9+. A typical street in the Ano Sýros quarter 0>2/>9:9089

% # $ $ # ( #

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$I:7;0);6=5-:7=;)<<:)+<1>-+7>-;);?-44);878=4): :-;7:<;413-)41;;D;)6,F61%0-4)6,;+)8-1;>):1-, ?1<08)45<:--;)6,<-::)+-,.1-4,;6<0-67:<0-:6:-/176 7.8D67-:1D<0-<:),1<176)4.):5;*=14<<707=;-*7<0 .)5141-;)6,)615)4;):-16<7<)4+76<:);<<7<0-<)41)6)<- Γαλησσ 5)6;176;)6,0741,)A075-;7.<0-;7=<0$I:7;0); 7 km (4 miles) W of Ermoúpoli. /77,:7),;-;8-+1)44A16<0-;7=<0)6,1;-);A<7-@ 847:-*A+):7:*13-%0-:-1;):-/=4):*=;.:75<0-0): 500. Armeós beach 1 km (0.5 miles) N. *7=:<767$I:7;<0-5)16:-;7:<;)6,7=<4A16/>144)/-;

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Kíni Bay and the town’s harbour

Κνι

9 km (6 miles) NW of Ermoúpoli. 300. Delfíni 3 km (2 miles) N.

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The red-tiles roofs of Agía Varvára convent near Kíni

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp313–7 and pp336–8

Sweeping Foínikas bay on the southwest coast of Sýros

Ποσειδωνα

12 km (7 miles) SW of Ermoúpoli. 700. Agathopés 1 km (0.5 miles) S.

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1;*);-,16).16--74);;1+)4 07=;-<;,1;84)A;16+4=,-)6 16<-:-;<16/+744-+<1767. 167)6.16,;.:75/F)1:F61 ):<1.)+<;.:75<0-.7=:)6+1-6< +1<1-;A+4),1+.1/=:16-;)6, +-:)51+;)6,)+78A7.<0- ;<=6616/5):*4-<0+-6<=:A 7.E)%0-;51416/ <0+-6<=:ALion of Kéa1; +):>-,16<7<0-:7+3 5 .<67:<07.<0-<7?6 Archaeological Museum Tel 22880 22079. Tue–Sun. main public hols.

An Italianate mansion in Poseidonía

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.:75:57H Ioulís %0-+)81<)47=4F;7:7=4F,) 8741<0:7=/0!7;-1,76F)<7 7F613);%0-)..4=-6<>144)/- ?1<01<;:-,<-::)+7<<)<14-, +76<)16;;75-<)41)6)<-5)6 :77.;)6,?16,16/)44-A?)A; 1;8-:+0-,76)0144;1,- 35 ;176;?01+0):-<0-+7=6<:A 514-;)*7>-7:1;;F) :-<:-)<;7.?-)4<0A1;4)6,-:; ;07:1-?;.:750-:- %0- Archaeological Museum

Around the Island

%0-87:<7.Korissía+)6*- 8)+3-,?1<0:--3.)5141-; 760741,)A*:-)3;);+)6 Vourkári)6)<<:)+<1>-)6, 878=4)::-;7:<.=:<0-:67:<0 76<0-1;4)6,<0)<1;.)57=; .7:1<;.1;0<)>-:6); %0-):+0)-747/1+)4;1<-7. Agía Eiríni1;<788-,*A<0- +0)8-47.<0-;)5-6)5-%0- :76B-/-;-<<4-5-6)<-, .:75 <7 1:;<7++= 81-,)<<0--6,7.<0--741<01+ 8-:17,):7=6,<0- <7?6?);.7:<1.1-,
Κ α

1,600. Korissía. 22880 21100. Gialiskári 6 km (4 miles) NW of Ioulís

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A Hellenistic tower at Moní Agías Marínas on Kéa

% # $

Κθνο

1,500. Mérichas. 22810 31201.

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(7=+)6?)43<7Dryopída) /77,07=:;7=<07.0I:) ,7?6<0-)6+1-6<+7**4-,?)A ?1<0,:)5)<1+>1-?;%0<7?6?);6)5-,).<-:<0- )6+1-6< :A78-;<:1*-?07;- 316/ K<067;/)>-<0-1;4)6, 1<;6)5-%0-+0):516/:-, :77.-,>144)/-1;,1>1,-,16<7 -: >)44-A"G:)#7J/)1;4=;0 ?1<0+:78;?014-)4)-;8:=6/=8*A<0-+0=:+0 7.")6)/H))6F4),-,1+)<-, <7<0-&1:/16):A<0-1;4)6,; Interior of the church of Panagía 8)<:76;)16<$-<16)<<:)+<1>- ;0),-,81+61+/:7=6,;<0- Kanála in Kanála town on Kýthnos +0=:+007=;-;K<067;;57;< >-6-:)<-,1+767.<0-&1:/16 Around the Island %0-:7),6-1-?;<7$G:1.7; %0-:-5)1616/):-);7.<0- 1;4)6,):-57;<4A )6, $K:7;)6, <0-:-):-/77, ?1<016)?)43)*4- *-)+0-;6-):*A ,1;<)6+-7.<0-;- Loutrá1;) 8716<; Mérichas76 <0-?-;<+7);<0); ;<:)//416/:-;7:<76 );5)445):16))6, <0-67:<0-);<+7);< <:--.:16/-,*-)+0 ?1<0?16,;?-8< 416-,?1<0;5)4407<-4; *-)+0-; <;;8) )6,<)>-:6);=;<<7 ?)<-:;):-;)<=:)<-, <0-67:<0<0-;)6,A ?1<01:76)6,;16+- *-)+07.Martinákia )6+1-6<<15-;<0- 1;878=4):?1<0.)51 ;8:16/;7.F3)>7; Potter at work in Dryopída 41-;=:<0-:)476/<0- )6, /171 6F:/A:71 +7);<):-<0-47>-4A 0)>-*--6=;-,); *-)+0-;)-:4773-,*A .:75/7=<:0-=5)<1;5)6, Vryókastro<0--44-61;<1+ -+B-5)<7/A6)-+747/1+)4 :=16;7.)6+1-6<K<067; 8:7*4-5;%0-'-6H)7<-4 ;1<=)<-,6-@<,77:<7<0- -@+-44-6<A,:7<0-:)8A-6<:- 0);4)<- <0+-6<=:A5):*4- *)<0;16;1,--;741<01+ ;-<<4-5-6<<7<0-67:<0,)<16/ .:75 D1;<0- 74,-;<16<0-A+4),-;

Σ ριφο

1,100. Livádi. 22810 51210.

The red-roofed village of Dryopída on Kýthnos For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp313–7 and pp336–8

65A<0747/A<0-16.)6< "-:;-=;)6,01;57<0-: )6)-?-:-?);0-,=876 <0-;07:-;7.:7+3A$G:1.7; 367?6);C<0-*)::-676-E !6+-:1+0161:76)6,+788-: 516-;<0-1;4)6,0);*):-0144;

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Around the Island

$H.67;1;);5)440144A1;4)6, 878=4):?1<0?)43-:;=;-; .:75)5F:-;87:<+766-+<1< ?1<0 874476H))6,F;<:776 <0--);<+7);<Artemónas1; 874476H);144)/-<0- ;-+76,4):/-;<76$H.67;?1<0 158:-;;1>-&-6-<1)607=;-; ;87:<16/,1;<16+<1>-+0156-A; %0- <0+-6<=:A+0=:+0 /17; -I:/17;<7=.G6,1 +76<)16;;->-:)4.16-1+76; .:75<0-8-:17,%0-+0=:+0 7.")6)/H)I6+01?1<01<; +4=;<-:7.,75-;?);*=14<76 The whitewashed village of Chóra on Sérifos <0-;1<-7.)<-584-7.:<-51; Kástro35 514-;-);< ?1<0;5)44.-:<14->)44-A;)6, *-)+0-; 6)6+1-6<<15-; 7. :<-5I6);7>-:4773;<0- $H.67;?);:-67?6-,.7:1<; ;-)<0-*)+3;7.1<;07=;-; 476/;)6,A*-)+0-; .7:516/5);;1>-7=<-:?)44; -::1-;,7+3)-:6);7447?<0- )44-A;*-):&-6-<1)6 ;<76-;<-8;=8.:751>F,17: A-):<0-A+0-)<-, +7)<;7.):5;%0-:- =;-<0-;87:),1+*=;;-:>1+- )6,;-6<)/14,-, ):-:=16;7.)4);;1+)4 <7:-)+0<0-,)BB416/?01<- :7+316;<-),16+=: )+:78741;16<0->144)/- Chóra01/0)*7>-76<0- :16/ 87447;+=:;- %0- Archaeological Museum0);)+744-+ ;<--80144;1,-<1;<788-,*A %0-/74,516-;?-:- <1767.:+0)1+)6, <0-:=16;7.) <0+-6<=:A .477,-,<0-1;4)6, &-6-<1)63F;<:7)6A7.1<; -44-61;<1+;+=48<=:- :=16-,)6,.:75<0-6 A fountain in 5-,1->)4+=*-;0)8-,07=;-; 76?);367?6); )6,-75-<:1+)6, ;75-16+7:87:)<16/;<76-.:75 5-)616/-58-*--6:-67>) %0-87:<7.Kamáres Apollonia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useum of Popular Arts and Folklore

Σφνο

Plateía Iróön. Apr–Oct: 9am–10pm daily.

Archaeological Museum Kástro. Tel 22840 31022. Tue–Sun. main public hols.

1,950. Kamáres. 22840 31977. www.sifnos.gr

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A chapel with steps leading down to a small quay at Platýs Gialós, Sífnos

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Προ

+8:/2+:.?3+9)+4:+* A859/9:.+:./8*2'8-+9: ?)2'*/)/92'4*"/4)+'4:/7;/:?/:.'9(++4,'35;9,58/:9 =./:+3'8(2+=./).+49;8+*:.+/92'4*968596+8/:? ,853:.++'82??)2'*/)'-+:.85;-.:5!53'4:/3+94 :.+ :.)+4:;8? A859='98;2+*(?:.+$+4+:/'4;1+9 5, A>59:.+4(?:.+#;819,853 ;4:/2:.+8++1 %'85,4*+6+4*+4)+ A859/9:.+.;(5, :.+?)2'*/),+88?9?9:+3'4*/9(;9?/4./-.9+'954 ;,,+:+*(?9:854-=/4*9/4;2?'4*;-;9:/:/9'=/4* 9;8,+896'8'*/9+#.+8+'8+9+<+8'28+958:9(;:/:8+:'/49 /:9).'83=/:../22
The famous windmill beside Paroikiá’s busy port

Παροικι

3,000. harbour.

22840 21673. Apr–Oct. Kriós 3 km (2 miles) N.

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Ekatontapylianí W Paroikiá. Tel 22840 21243. daily.

#.+ 1':54:'6?2/'4C.;8). 5,';4*8+*5589/4:.+ =+9:5,:5=4/9:.+52*+9:/4 8++)+/4)54:/4;5;9;9+'4*

Fishing boats, Paroikiá harbour

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp313–17 and pp336–8

! "

KEY

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

For key to map see back flap

10,300. Alykí. Paroikiá. Paroikiá (22840 21673). Fish & Wine Festival at Náousa: 6 Aug; Festival of the Dormition of the Virgin at Paroikiá: 15 Aug; Agía Theoktísti Saint’s Day: 9 Nov.

Náxos, Kos, Kálymnos, Ikaría

Lágeri

Náousa S´yros, Tínos

Kamínia

M´ykonos

Moní Longovárdas

Kriós Trís Ekklisíes

Kástro

;/2:/4 54:.+9/:+5, :.+'4)/+4:')85652/9:.+ $+4+:/'41A9:852/+954' Kéfalos Moní Christoú 93'22./22'::.++4*5, Mármara tou Dásous :.+3'/49:8++:5,:.+ Léfkes Mólos :5=4 #.+$+4+:/'49 Pródromos Moní Agíou ;9+*:.+3'8(2+8+3'/49 Petaloúdes Antoníou Márpissa ,853:.+2'99/)'2 Antíparos town Poúnta :+362+95,65225'4* Poúnta Píso Livádi +3+:+8:5)549:8;)::.+ Dryós Chrysí Aktí 9;8::5:.+ 0 kilometres 5 9/:+5,:.+#+362+ ')./+<+3+4:95, 5, 652259:'4*9 '4)/+4: 8++)+;6 0 miles 2 :.+?+'852* :5 :/9 SIGHTS AT A GLANCE )'8<+*54'3'8(2+ (2;+*53+*).;8). 5, Agía Eléni A Greco-Roman frieze :'(2+:'4*='9 B,1+9 in the Archaeological and Agios */9)5<+8+*/4:.+ A5;9' Museum 1A9:85='229*;8/4- Konstantínos '85/1/A :.+ :.)+4:;8? +:'25E*+9 Environs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

Archaeological Museum '4*2/<+*'254+/4:.+=55*9,58 ?+'892+'*/4-'6/5;9 W Paroikiá. Tel 22840 21231. '4*,8;-'22/,+5;4*(?'.;4:+89.+'91+*./3:5(8/4- Tue–Sun. main public hols. .+8953+533;4/54(8+'*%.+4.+8+:;84+*=/:.:.+ #.+3;9+;3)'4(+,5;4* (8+'*9.+2'?*5=4'4**/+*!+'2/@/4-9.+='9'9'/4:.+ (+./4* 1':54:'6?2/'4C4+ );:5,,.+8.'4*:5:'1+'9'8+2/)(;:,5;4*.+)5;2*45: 5,/:93'/4+>./(/:9/96'8:5, 2+'<+ A859;4:/2.+8+;4/:+*.+8.'4*=/:..+8(5*? :.+68/)+2+99 '8/'4.854/)2+

Maráthi quarries PAROIKIA

Ios, Piraeus

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The mountain village of Léfkes, the medieval capital of Páros

1;<0-1;4)6,;;-+76,4):/-;< <7?6)6,<0-84)+-<7;1<)6,

?)<+0<0-:1+0)6,<0-*-)=<1.=4 3 km (2 miles) NE of Paroikiá. 8):),-+01+,-;1/6-:+47<0-; )476/<0-?)<-:.:76< 7:<07."):7131C<0- :7),<7 C7=;)8);;-; %0-+747=:.=40):*7=: <0-:-5)16;7.<0:-- 0);)=619=-*:-)3 <0+-6<=:A+0=:+0-; ?)<-:16<0-0)4. %:1;3341;E-;),)8<-, ;=*5-:/-,:=167. .:75)67:1/16)4<0 )&-6-<1)6+);<4- +-6<=:A*);141+)%0)< ?01+00);;47?4A ?);16<=:6*=14<.:75 *--6;16316/?1<0 <0-5):*4-7.) <0 <0-+7);<416- +-6<=:A >-:AA-):76 Main door at Moní <0-->-616/7. 7:0-:7;;0:16- Longovárdas <75*7.<0-"):1)6 =/=;< <7:+041< 87-< :+0147+0=; .1;016/+)F9=-; 6<0-57=6<)16;.=:<0-: );;-5*4-<7:--6)+<<0-*)<<4- 67:<0<0-:-57<- <0 7. *--7.)+<1>1-:,1;+7=:)/-,)6, ?75-6):-*)66-,

10 km (6 miles) SE of Paroikiá. 850.

%0-57=6<)16:7),<7D.3-; <0-1;4)6,;01/0-;<>144)/- 8);;-;<0-)*)6,76-,5):*4- 9=)::1-;)<):C<014);144)/- ?1<05-,1->)407=;-;) 4)*A:16<07.)44-A; 16 ;0),-,;9=):-;)6,:-;<)=:)6<; ?1<0<-::)+-;7>-:477316/<0- /:--6>)44-A*-47?$078; ;<7+347+)4?-)>16/)6, +-:)51+0)6,1+:).<;)6,<0- <7?60);)<16A743=;-=5 Folk Museum Apr–Oct: daily; Nov–Mar: key at town hall.

Environs

:75<0-?16,5144;7>-:4773 16/ D.3-;)AB)6<165):*4-8)<0?)A4-),;35 514-;;7=<0-);<<7 Pródromos)674,.7:<1.1-, .):516/>144)/-')43).=:<0-: 516=<-;8);<741>-/:7>-; <7:-)+0Mármara>144)/-?1<0 1<;5):*4-8)>-,;<:--<;%08:-<
12 km (7 miles) NE of Paroikiá. 2,100. Lageri 5 km (3 miles) NE.

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Caïques at the attractive fishing harbour at Náousa

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp313–17 and pp336–8

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Outlying Islands

%0-1;4)6,7.Antíparos=;-, <7*-2716-,<7"C:7;*A) +)=;-?)A%0-;-,)A;);5)44 .-::A4163;<0-1
*-)+035 514-;;7=<01; 81:)<-)<<)+3; Chrysí Aktí74,-6 -)+0 %0->144)/-)4;70);)6/-41;5G; 50. to Márpissa. Poúnta 1 km .)5141-; <1;)4;7)?-44 %0-1;4)6,0);.16-*-)+0-; (0.5 mile) S. 367?6+-6<:-.7:?)<-:;87:<; *=<<0-;<):)<<:)+<1761;<0- $1<=)<-,*-47?D.3-;76<0- )6,0);07;<-,<0-?7:4, 5);;1>- Cave of Antíparos -);<+7);<7.<0-1;4)6,<0- ?1<0)*:-)<0<)316/)::)A7. ?16,;=:.16/+0)58176;018; Dryós 35 514-.=:<0-: ;<)4)+<1<-;)6,;<)4)/51<-; .1;016/>144)/-7."E;71>C,1 ?1<01<;;0-4<-:-,;)6,A ;7=<0?-;<1;)6-@8)6,16/ ,1;+7>-:-,,=:16/4-@)6,-: *-)+00);/:7?616<7)41>-4A :-;7:<*=<)<1<;0-):<1;) <0- :-)<;:-1/66;=55-: ;5)44:-;7:<-.:75 8:-<144)/-?1<0),=+3 87:<.7:"C:7;;0144>144)/-; 6<E8):7;<7?6)6,"7H6<)76 876,<)>-:6););5)44 )6,<0-1;4)6,;5):*4-9=): 0):*7=:?1<0)8-**4A*-)+0 "C:7;:75?0-:-<0-*7)< :1-;<7,)A<0-:-):-;-:>1+-; ,7+3;1<1;)0)4.07=:?)43 )6,);<:16/7.;)6,A+7>-; 78-:)<-,7>-:<76-):*A/E) =8<0-01447./17; 7C661; <7<0-+)>-57=<0<0-6) 66) 76 C@7; 1;4)6, %0-;5)440):*7=:0); ,:)5)<1+5 .<,-;+-6< )?1,-:)6/-7.*):;)6, 16<7<0-+)>-:67:, A:76 <)>-:6);?1<0),1;+76-):*A )6,7<0-:>1;1<7:;0)>-+):>-, 6 km (4 miles) SW of Paroikía. )6,7++);176)447+)4)+<1>1<1-; 1 Jun–20 Sep: daily. <0-1:6)5-;76<0-?)44;6 <0-:-6+0)5*);;),7: )6,-6<-:<)165-6<; "-<)47H,-;7:<0-&)44-A7. <0-):9=1;,- 716<-40-4, )0:1;<5););;0-:-.7: <0- =<<-:.41-;76<0-;478-; 7.";A+0781)6C1;-);14A .:1-6,; %0-+0=:+07=<;1,- :-)+0-,.:75"):7131C%01; /17; 7C661; $8141G<1;?); 4=;0/:--67);1;1;075-<7 *=14<16 ;?):5;7.-:;-A <1/-:57<0;.:75 )A<7=/=;< ?01+0.4=<<-:.:75 <0-.741)/-?0-6 ,1;<=:*-, %0-:-):- 5=4-<:-3;)476/ <0-,763-A8)<0; <0)<+:7;;<0- The beautiful and fashionable >)44-A*7=< 35 beach at Poúnta 514-67:<07. "-<)47H,-;<0- <0 Environs +-6<=:A+76>-6<7. Mólos35 514-;67:<0 Moní Christoú tou Dásous0:1;<7. 0);)476/;)6,A*-)+0?1<0 <0-'77,;1;?7:<0 ,=6-;<)>-:6);)6,)?16, ;=:.16/+-6<:-=;<<7<0-;7=<0 <0-?)43)4<07=/0 41-;Poúnta67<<7*-+76.=;-, ?75-6764A):- ?1<0<0->144)/-7."7H6<)76 )447?-,16<7<0- <0-?-;<+7);<76-7.<0-*-;< ;)6+<=):A"C:7;; )6,57;<.);0176)*4-*-)+0-; ;-+76,8)<:76;)16< 16<0-A+4),-;?1<0)<:-6,A /17; :;D617; 4)1,*)+3*-)+0*):%0<-)+0-:)6,)**7< 1;4)6,;57;<.)57=;-);<+7);< 1;)4;7*=:1-,0-:- Bougainvillea on a house in Antíparos town

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Mosaic from the Archaeological Museum in Náxos town

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Archaeological Museum

/(:(50*656:;(:0:7(05;,+)@ >/0*//(:65,6-;/,),:; 04D;906:$B3=0:6-;/,9,;(5 *633,*;065:6-@*3(+0*4(9)3, !*/66305 -0.<905,: 05;/, #7/03330,:;/,0476:05. 9,,20:3(5+:(:>,33(: 4,+0,=(3569;/.(;,6-;/, :64,),(<;0-<3 64(546:(0*: -69;0-0,+ B:;96)<03;05 Archaeological Museum )@(9*6!(5<+653@;>6 Palace of Sanoúdo. Tel 22850 22725. 6-;/,690.05(3:,=,5.(;, Tue–Sun. main public hols. ;6>,9:9,4(050;;3,0:3,-;6- ;/, ;/*,5;<9@6<;,9>(33: )<;;/,055,9>(33::;033:;(5+ Environs *(<:,>(@3,(+:;6;/,Grótta 796;,*;05. 0479,::0=, /6<:,: "/,:,),(9;/,*6(;: (9,(569;/6-B?6:;6>5 6-(94:6-;/,$,5,;0(556)3,: 5(4,+(-;,90;:5<4,96<::,( >/630=,+;/,9,(5+4(5@6- *(=,:"6;/,:6<;/;/,3(.665 ;/,79,:,5;+(@9,:0+,5;:(9, 302,)(@6-Agios Geórgios0: +,:*,5+,+-964;/,:,-(4030,: ;/,4(05/630+(@9,:69;>0;/ .63+,5:(5+:(5+:/(336> "/,099,4(05:(9,/6<:,+05 ;/, ;/*,5;<9@(;/630* >(;,9"/,),:;),(*/,:(9, cathedral05;/, 6<;6-;6>5(365. The Portára gateway from the B:;96),5,(;/ ;/,>,:;*6(:;Agía unfinished Temple of Apollo 4(9)3,:3():+(;05. Anna0:(73,(:(5; )(*2;6 :4(339,:69;>0;/ <905.;/,"<920:/ :03=,9:(5+:(5+ 6**<7(;065B?6:>(: >(;,9:769;:69469, 15,000. Harbourfront -(46<:-690;::*/663: :630;<+,/,(+:6<;/ Harbourfront (22850 25201). "/,4(.50-0*,5; 24 403,:6=,9;/, Angel from the Roman Catholic 69;/6-;/,769;(5+9,(*/,+ (3(*,6-!(56F+6 +<5,:;6Pláka;/, cathedral +(;05.-964 )@(*(<:,>(@0:;/,/<., ),:;),(*/65;/, >/0*/05*69769(;,: 4(9)3,69;B9(.(;,>(@65 0:3(5+(5+4(053@ 7(9;6-;/,$,5,;0(5-69;0-0*( ;/,0:3,;6-(3B;0(>/0*/ 5<+0:;<9;/,9:6<;/;/,7<9, ;065:/6<:,+;/,9,5*/ +6405(;,:;/,/(9)6<96- >/0;,:(5+:6-Mikrí Vígla (5+ Kastráki5(4,+(-;,9( :*/663 "/,46:;-(46<: B?6:;6>569/E9(<03; 7<703>(:9,;(556=,30:; 9<05,+@*,5(,(5-69;9,::(9, 05

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he remote and beautiful Pláka beach south of Náxos town For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp313–17 and pp336–8

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

20,000. 2 km (1 mile) S 53(5+ B?6:0:(+9(4(;0*7(;*/>6926-90*/.(9+,5: Náxos town. Náxos town. =05,@(9+:69*/(9+:(5+=033(.,:"/,:,(9,)(*2,+)@ Náxos town (22850 25201). >03+*9(.:(5++6;;,+>0;/$,5,;0(5>(;*/;6>,9:(5+( Agios Nikódimos Folk Festival, >,(3;/6-/0:;690*(3:0;,:3;/6<./;/,9,(9,69.(50A,+ Náxos town: 14 Jul; Dionysiac ;6<9:-964B?6:;6>5(5+(.66+36*(3)<::,9=0*,( Festival, Náxos town: 1st week of /09,+*(90:(+=0:()3,;6,?7369,;/,0:3(5+-<33@"/, Aug; Diorvoia Festival: Jul–Aug. "9(.(D(9,.0650: /6>,=,9(>(32,9: 7(9(+0:, ,33650(:;6>,9-09:;6-;/,

-69;0-0,+4(5:065:65B?6: "/,*/(7,36-.06: 6B550: G96<3(:0556 !(.9D:6<;/ 6- 305B+60:)<03;6=,9;/, 9<05:6-(;,473,6-,4,;,9

Moní village in the Tragaía valley, surrounded by olive groves

15 km (9 miles) SE of Náxos town.

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96456 !(.9D;/,96(+ ;>0:;:;6;/,"9(.(D(=(33,@ "/,-09:;=033(.,05;/,=(33,@ 10 km (6 miles) S of Náxos town. Chalkí0:;/,46:;70*;<9,:8<, to Kinídaros. >0;/0;:$,5,;0(5(9*/0;,*;<9, "/,96(+:6<;/6-B?6:;6>5 (5+;/,63+@A(5;05,9(.E Environs 76<36:;6>,9050;:*,5;9, 7(::,:;/96<./;/,0=B+0 =(33,@;/,/,(9;6-(5*0,5; !6<;/,(:;6-B?6:;6>50: 964/(32D(96(+3,(+:<7 4(9)3,*6<5;9@;6;/,C3(5,: Glinádo/64,;6;/,$,5,;0(5 ;665D/64,6-;/,46:; <5<:<(3*/<9*/65B?6: =033(.,: 5 Kournochóri;/, SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Panagía Drosianí (;05.-964 -09:;=033(.,0:;/,$,5,;0(5 ;/, ;/*,5;<9@0;:+64,:(9, ,33( 6**(;6>,9; Mýloi 7,D9(5;/6: 5,(9;/,(5*0,5;4(9)3,8<(99@ 7E3365 4(+,-964-0,3+:;65,: Filóti0:(;9(+0;065(3=033(., (;3,90E30,;>6 ;/*,5;<9@ 640(2D ;/,3(9.,:;05;/,9,.065;:0;: C3(5,:$(33,@ 65;/,:367,:6-6<5;'(: B?6:;6>5 >/0*/(; 4-; Pátmos "9(.(D($(33,@ Ikaría 0:;/,/0./,:;05;/,@*3(+,:

Kos

Páros,S´yros Santoríni Irakleion,Ios

NAXOS TOWN Agios Geórgios Agía Anna

For key to map see back flap

Kournochóri

Kastráki

Myrsíni Komiakí

Mélanes Valley

Glinádo M´yloi

Kinídaros

%

Ano Sagrí

Kóronos

!

Moní

Chalkí

Mikrí Vígla

Apóllon

Pláka

KEY

Ormos Abrám

Moní Galíni Faneroménis

Apeíranthos

Filóti

Tragaía Valley

Moutsoúna

Mount Zas

Koúros in a private garden in Mýloi in the Mélanes valley

Agiá

Amorgós Donoússa

1,000 m 3,300 ft

0 kilometres 0 miles

5 3

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Απλλων

49 km (30 miles) NE of Náxos town. 100.

!7/-/3'11>',/8./3-;/11'-+ 9.'9/8814<1>9:73/3-/394' 7+84795E1143-+98(:8>/3 9.+8:22+7,+89/;'1 /39.+;/11'-+,47#94.39.+ '59/8943 :-:89 Environs Terraced fields outside the village of Komiakí

Απερανθο

Κωμιακ#

25 km (16 miles) SE of Náxos town. 1,500.

42 km (26 miles) E of Náxos town. 500.

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rchaeological 89'794,43+4,9.+,/3+89 Museum.'8')411+)9/434, 57494>)1'*/)2'7(1+51'6:+8 <'10843 B=48 $.+<'10 9'0+8>4:*4<3/3949.+1:8. *+5/)9/3-8)+3+8,742*'/1> 1/,+'8<+11'8 +41/9./),/3*8 ;'11+>'3*9.+).'72/3-4'8/8 $.+7+/8'184'82'11Geologi- .'21+94,Myrsíni cal Museum439.+8+)43* ,14474,9.+;/11'-+8).441 +14<9.+;/11'-+/89.+5479 4, Moutsoúna<.+7+8./58 <+7+43)+14'*+* (+,47+9.+/3*:897>8*+)1/3+ $.+,/3+(+')./834<1/3+* ;/11'8

Archaeological Museum Off main road. Tel 22850 61361. daily. main public hols.

Geological Museum Village school. Tel 22850 61361. daily. main public hols.

The harbour at Moutsoúna, Náxos

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp313–17 and pp336–8

9 -/B 022/1+8<+89 4, 5E114389'3*89.+Cocco Pýrgos(:/19(>9.+%+3+9/'3 4))4)1'3'99.+(+-/33/3- 4,9.+/77:1+4,3479.+73 B=48 /3 '7+,479/,/+* <'9).94<+789.'9<+7+(:/19 *:7/3-9.+%+3+9/'34)):5'9/43 4, B=48:79.+7'143-9.+ 3479.)4'8974'*1/+89.+/*>11/) (+').'9Ormos Abrám7:39';+73' '9/3-,742 9.+'('3 *43+* Moní Faneroménis /8 022/1+884:9.43 9.+74'*,:79.+784:9.94<'7*8 '1C3/'74'*1+'*8:594 9.+2489,'24:8 9.+ High Tower4,9.+4))4)1'3 9<'8(:/19/3 /3')42 2'3*/3-548/9/434;+71440/3- ';'11+>:7/3-9.+ 9.)+3 9:7>','2/1>,+:*(+9<++3 9.+!79.4*4=4))4'3*9.+ '9.41/) '74??/,'2/1/+8

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9.+74)0.4:8/3-9.+2/7') :14:8/)434,9.+%/7-/3'7> 4:3*+*/3 (>9.+ >?'39/3+ 25+7471+=/48 423+3489.+243'89+7>.'8 '1/(7'7>
$.+(+89<'>94-+9'74:3* 9.+/81'3*/8(>(4'947<'10 /3-'19.4:-.9.+7+/8'1/2/9+* (:88+7;/)+$.+2'/354794, The huge koúros in Apóllon’s ancient quarries Katápola/39.+84:9.<+89/8 8+9/3'.478+8.4+8.'5+*('> (740+4:9'8'7+8:194,'3 Αμοργ (42('7*2+394,9.+/-. (+').$.+.'7(4:7'7+'1/308 9.7++;/11'-+8'9B541'/39.+ $4<+7<.+3''74??/<42'3 1,800. Katápola & Aigiáli. 2/**1+<.+7+9.+,+77/+8*4)0 5+78:'*+*.+7.:8('3*<.4 Katápola & Aigiáli harbours. 6:/+9+7Xylokeratídi949.+ <'8''19+8+57/;'9++794 Katápola quay (22850 71278). 3479.'3*Rachídi439.+./11 (+8/+-+/9$.+4))4)1'3 Ormos Aigiális 12 km (7 miles) NE 2'3'-+*94.41*4:9(:99.+ of Amorgós town. 8/*+'(4;+97')01+'*8,742 ;+3*+99')439/3:+*947'-+ '9B541'949.+./119457:/38 7'2'9/)'11>7:--+*9.+ 4,9.+'3)/+39)/9>4,Minoa ,47'349.+7 >+'78:39/1' 2'77/'-++;+39:'11>:3/9+* 82'11/81'3*4,247-E8/8 119.'97+2'/38'7+9.+ 3'774<'3*143-)145+'3<'1189.+->23'8/ 9.+9<4,'2/1/+8 (+').+8 3.'(/9+*,742'8 :2'3*9.+,4:3*'9/4384, +'71>'8/985+'0<'8 9.+ $+251+4,54114 *:7/3-9.+>)1'*/))/;/1/?'9/43 $.+3479.+7354794,Ormos <.+39.+7+<+7+9.7++)/9/+8 Aigiális/89.+/81'3*82'/3 7+8479545:1'7,47/988'3*> /34' 70+8/3/'3*-/'1/ 3 ',/3*4,)+7'2/)8'3* (+'). 9/8<479.,4114(4;+9.+94<3 /8 Apáno Kástro' Irakliá'3*Schinoússa9.+ @')0 81'3*8A $.+>'11.';+ %+3+9/'3,4797+88 74428947+39'5489'3* <./).<'8(:/19 94:7/894,,/)+(:934('308 (> +7+2/'./8/ 7'01/B9.+1'7-+89(4'898 /3 .E7' /257+88/;+89'1')9/9+8/39.+ '184(4'8989.+ ';+4,D/B33/'8<+11'8 82'11+89).:7)./3 >)1'*/)7+2'/384:,43C88/ 7++)+9.+9/3> Agios Fanoúrios )438/8984,9<4/81'3*834 :55+79.+2489*+;+145+* 4,9.+')081'3*8(+').+8'3*9.+ #9'7'997')9/4343 :3/3.'(/9+* B9414<+7 9.+/81'3*/89.+ #)./34F88'.'8?'39/3+ Moní (1+*2:1+97')08434F88' Panagías 9.+24893479.+71>4,9.+ Chozoviótissas ).'/3/8247+/841'9+*'3* (+14<.E7'43 ,44*)'3(+8)'7)+8+991+ 9.++'89)4'89$.+ 2+39,7429.++42+97/)+7' 89'70<./9+243 <'8+=)';'9+*439.+/81'3* '89+7>)1/3-894 9.+ 2 ,9 (:924894,/98;/8/9478)42+ ,479.+,/3+8'3*>(+').+8'9 )1/,,89/8'.:-+ ,4797+88(:/19/394 The cliff-top Moní Chozoviótissas Kéntros'3*Livádi

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300. Aloprónoia. Síkinos town. Kástro, Síkinos town (22860 51222). Agios Geórgios 7 km (3 miles) NE of Síkinos town.

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7;<7?6)6,<0-;=8-:* ):-;75-0741,)A075-; Mylopótas*-)+0?01+00); <0-:-1;41<<4-5);;<7=:1;5 1,654. Gialós. Ios town. Síkinos town1;,1>1,-,16<7 144)/-;C;<:7)6,<0- 91505). Mylopótas 2 km (1 mile) 8:-<-:477316/<0-;-)C;<:71; *-)+0)-:-,167)3?77,;4)<-: <<0--6<:)6+-<7<0->144)/-1; 7>-:4773-,*A<0-5-,1->)4 =;-,.7:;018*=14,16/$0- 761)6;*=14<+1<1-;)<<0-87:< :=16;7.!)4)1G3);<:7.7:<:-;; !4)<-E)C;<:7=?0-:-<0-?)44; 7. <0+-6<=:A;<76-5)6;176; .-;<1>)41;0-4,)<6-):*A 7.1)4G;)6,)<7;<7?6 Moní Agías Theodótis76 .7:5-,)*);<1767.,-.-6+- 4)<-:<7*-=;-,);%-6-<1)6 #-8<-5*-:<75):3 $0-+0=:+07.<0-!)61+<7:A .7:5;<0-.7+)48716<)6, )4;7367?6);<0- 7>-:5-,1->)4 )576/<0-:=16-,07=;-;1;) *=:1)484)+-7. 81:)<-; '7=+)6;-- 0=/-5):*4-87:<1+7 75-:)6, )A <0-,77:<0-81:)<-; $0-8):<4A:=16-,76E 1;<0- 5E:1)7: *:73-<0:7=/0764A (7H,G+07=!1/E;.7:<1.1-, 75-:.-;<1>)4 47+)4;8-+1)41- ;1514):<7);7.< 75-:;<75*1; 0G:))6,0);1+76;*A<0- ;=887;-,4A16<0- <0+-6<=:A5);<-:#37:,E41; +:-)5+0--;- 67:<0))40G:)<0-:-1;) 7;1;:-67?6-, 8:1>)<- Folk Museum?01+0 .7:1<;61/0<41.-)6, )6)6+1-6<761)6 1;16<0-.)514A075-7.)6 );):-;=4<1;)5)/ <7?6?01+00); Windmill above Ios town 5-:1+)6-@8)<:1)<-<0);)6 6-<.7:<0-A7=6/ ;4188-,,7?6<0- 741>-8:-;;)6,)?1,-:)6/- 7?->-:1<:-5)16;) +41..;7>-:<0-)/-; 7.47+)4,75-;<1+)6,)/:1 *-)=<1.=41;4)6,<;57=6<)16 75-:,1-,76<0-1;4)6, +=4<=:)4):<1.)+<; 7=;+7);<416-0);7>-: ).<-:01;;018?);.7:+-,<7 :750G:))8)<04-),; +0)8-4;)6,;75-7.<0-.16-;< ,7+3-6:7=<-<7<0-6;$0- ;)6,;16<0-A+4),-; <75*-6<:)6+-:=16-,07=;-; 8);<<0-:=16-,)6+1-6< Ios town)4;7367?6); A+478-)6?)44;;7=<0?-;< )6,<0-:-5)16;7.<0- <0-%144)/-1;),)BB416/51@ -44-61;<1+ Psarópyrgos tower <7 Moní Episkopís)/77, +)6*-;--6<7,)A 07=:;<:-3&1<07:1+ 7.?01<-07=;-;)6,*4=- ,75-,+0=:+0-;.);<*-16/ ;?)58-,*A,1;+7;)6,*):; $0-:-):-:=16;7.<0-%-6-<1)6 .7:<:-;;*=14<16 *A):+7 :1;81:-5)16;7.)6+1-6< ?)44;)6, ?16,5144;)*7>- <0-<7?6 $0-87:<7.Gialós7: :57;0);)*=;A0):*7=: ?1<0A)+0<;)6,.1;016/*7)<; /77,.1;0<)>-:6);)6,9=1-< -:)++7557,)<176<0)67; <7?6$0-*-)+00-:-1; ?16,A)4<07=/0) 516=<- ?)43?-;<4-),;<7<0-;)6,A The golden sands of Mylopótas beach, Ios

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp313–17 and pp336–8

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The sleepy port of Aloprónoia

650. Karavostásis. Chóra (22860 41249). Agáli 2 km (1 mile) W of Folégandros town.

4-)3)6,):1,74D/)6,:7; 1;76-7.<0-;5)44-;<160)*1< -,1;4)6,;16<0-A+4),-;< )8<4A<)3-;1<;6)5-.:75<0- !07-61+1)6.7::7+3A$:),1<176 )44A)84)+-7.-@14-<01; :-57<-1;4)6,8);;-,9=1-<4A =6,-:<0--/-)6;>):17=; :=4-:;;=..-:16/764A.:75<0- <0:-)<7.81:)<-)<<)+3 !78=4):?1<0807<7/:)80-:; )6,):<1;<;.7:1<;;0--:+41..; <-::)+-,.1-4,;)6,;<:1316/ 0G:)1<+)6*-*=;A168-)3 ;-);76*=<1;;<144)/77, 84)+-.7:?)43-:;?1<0)?14,

Koímisis tis Theotókou in Folégandros town

*-)=- 878=4):;1/0<<0-Chrysospiliá 7:74,-6)>-)5-,).<-: <0-;-)<7)>71,81:)<-;1; ;8-+<)+=4):<,1>1,-;16<7<0- <0-/74,-6;0),-7.1<;;<)4)+ <1<-;)6,;<)4)/51<-;<0-/:7<<7 .7:<1.1-, C;<:79=):<-: 41-;2=;<*-47?;-)4->-416<0- )6,0G:)7:5)16 67:<0-);<+41..; >144)/- C;<:7*=14<16<0- Ano Meriá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cology and Folk ;)>-,*A)61;4)6,-:.:75 5-,1->)481:)<-;?07,:7?6-, Museum Ano Meriá. Jul–mid-Sep: daily. 16);<7:57:516/8):<7. <0-)6+1-6<<7?6 ?)44;1<1;<07=/0< <70)>-76+-*--6 <0-;1<-7.)4);;1+)4 <-584-7.:<-51; -::1-;,7+3)< Karavostási76<0- -);<+7);<)<16A 0):*7=:?1<0) <:--.:16/-,8-**4- *-)+0:-;<)=:)6<; 07<-4;)6,:775; $0-:-1;)*=;<7 0G:))6,Livádi *-)+01;);07:< ?)43.:75<0-87:< 6;-);76<0-:):--@+=:;176; )>)14)*4-<7<0- ?-;<-:6*-)+0-; )< Agáli, Agios Traditional houses in Kástro, Folégandros town

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PLAKA 09?8.98J69=%2/ Crete Adámas Trypití -966/->39838-6?./= /963>23Langáda 038.=:+<>3-?6+<6C9,=3.3+8 Zefyría C-/8+/+8:9>>//. -/<+73-=+8.>/<<+-9>>+

Emporeiós

Chivadolímni

Raláki

Agía Kyriakí

Provatás

KEY For key to map see back flap 0 kilometres 0 miles

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp313–17 and pp336–8

5 3

% * $

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 4,500. 7 km (4 miles) SE of Adámas. Adámas. Adámas. Harbourfront, Adámas (22870 21370 ext 112). Nautical week: end Jun–beg Jul; Panagía at Zefyría: 15 Aug.

The twin rocks, known as The Bears, on the approach to Adámas

3+8,+:>3=7+6 098>0<97+CD+8>38/,+=363-+ #97+8+7:23>2/+>366?=/.09<:/<09<7+8-/=

Archaeological Museum Main square. Tel 22870 21620. Tue–Sun. 1 May.

History and Folk Museum Pláka. Tel 22870 21292. Tue–Sat & Sun am. main public hols.

,9?12>+=+130>09<9?3=)' 98 +<-2 %2/=>+>?/3= 89A98=29A38>2/9?@29?12>>92+@/,//869=>38 >2/=>
Around the Island

Inside the Christian Catacombs

Environs

8>2/8/+<,C>9A890%J +-/8>?9>2/2366=3./>2/ 7+==3@/-97:6/B901+66/<3/= 2+=>97,=38+<-2/.83-2/= /+-298/-98>+38381?:>9 =/@/8,9.3/=%2/-+>+-97, 8/>A9<53= 7 0>6981 A3>2 >97,=<-2+/96913=>= ,/63/@/>2+>+=7+8C+= ,9.3/=A//<2/-+>+-97,=+><+-5 6/+.=>9>2/:6+-/A2/2/

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GEOLOGY OF MILOS ?/>93>=@96-+83-9<3138= J69=3=<3-238738/<+6= +8.2+==97/=:/->+-?6+< <9-509<7+>398=9+>>9?<= 0<97.H7+=19>9>2/ //<3/:?73-/7998=-+:/ 90$+<+5J835909<7/.>A9 >9>22/6+@+09<7+>398=589A8 +=>2/E9<1+8:3:/=F90 6+<98J=3+900=292/=?6 :2?<9?=,6?/A+>/<+> "+:H0<+15+=/9>2/<7+6 +->3982+=:<9@3./.+ A/+6>29029>=:<381=38 =97/+2/H@<+52/=/+-+82/=?<0+-/

Mineral mine at Voúdia, still in operation

The white pumice landscape at Sarakíniko

The sulphurous blue water at Papáfragkas

# ! " " ! & !

Σαντορνη

5254/@+*(?:.+/45'49/4:./9 <52)'4/)/92'4*+8;6:+*/4 ,583/4- "'4:58C4/9)8+9)+4:9.'6+#.+/92'4*/9 =/*+2?(+2/+<+*:5(+')'4*/*':+,58:.+259: 1/4-*535,:2'4:/9'3+*#.C8'(?:.+ 58/'49=.+4:.+?9+::2+*.+8+/4:.+:.)+4:;8? /:='98+4'3+*"'4:58C4/',:+8":8+4+(? :.+$+4+:/'49=.5)547;+8+*:.+/92'4*/4:.+ :.)+4:;8?+96/:+:5;8/93"'4:58C4/8+3'/49' Early Cycladic 9:;44/4-/92'4*=/:./:9=./:+
One of the many cliffside bars in Firá, with views over the caldera

)5((2+*'22+?9#.+:5=49 +405?:.+3'-4/,/)+4:

Páros, Ios

Ammoúdi

Arméni

185:C8/ 4)/+4:#.C8' /8A C'

Oía

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE

Imerovígli

3

Skála Firón Folégandros, Crete

PALAIA KAMENI

Monólithos

NEA KAMENI

0 miles

5

FIRA

For key to map see back flap

Kanakári

KEY

0 kilometres

THIRASIA

Athiniós

Kamári

ASPRO NISI

Moní Profítou Ilía

Mount Profítis

Emporeió Akrotíri

Almyrá

Vlycháda

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp313–17 and pp336–8

Períssa

Kókkini Ammos

565 m 1,855 ft

Ancient Thíra

" # !

:');2'89:8++:-C5; VISITORS’ CHECKLIST /4A8;4995;:. 12,500. 5 km (3 miles) SE '254-:.++*-+5, of Firá. Skála Firón. :.+)'2*+8':5:.+

Firá (22860 22231). :.)+4:;8?).;8). Classical Music, Firá: Aug & Sep. 5,Agíos Minás %/:./:9*/9:/4):/<+ (2;+*53+'4*/:9 =./:+(+22:5=+8/: 7;'1+3;).5,/:9'857;+ .'9(+)53+:.+ /4:+8/58.'945=(++48+9:58+* 9?3(525,"'4:58C4/ Archaeological Museum #.+ Archaeological Opposite cable car. Tel 22860 Museum.5;9+9 22217. 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun. ,/4*9,853185:C8/ main public hols. %# '4*:.+ Mégaro Ghísi Museum '4)/+4:)/:?5,B9' Detail of bright orange volcanic cliff in Firá Near cable car. Tel 22860 23077. $5;4D%# May–late Oct: daily. (+22:5=+89'4*3;8'29(?:.+ /4)2;*/4-+'82??)2'*/) New Archaeological '8:/9:.8/9:D,58599/3C9 ,/-;8/4+9,5;4*/425)'2 Museum #.+(+22:5=+85,:.+Dómos 6;3/)+3/4+9#.+New Near Firá central square. Tel 22860 *53/4':+9:.+458:.5,:5=4 Archeological Museum)54 23217. 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun. :'/49:.+)525;8,;2/8A,8+9)5+9 54-C5;5A445;#.5;-. main public hols. 58-/4'22?:.5;-.::5(+,853 9+<+8+2?*'3'-+*/4:.++'8:. :.+3?:./)'2)/:?5,:2'4:/9 5;9+*/4'(+';:/,;2 :. GEOLOGICAL HISTORY OF SANTORINI )+4:;8?3'49/54:.+Mégaro "'4:58C4//954+5,9+<+8'2'4)/+4:<52)'45+92?/4-54:.+ Ghísi Museum/4:.+458:.+84 95;:.+84+-+'4<52)'4/)'8);8/4-:.+/45'4+8''85;4* 6'8:5,:.+:5=4.52*93'4; :.+8+='9'.;-++8;6:/54=./).(+-'4"'4:58C4/9 9)8/6:9,853:.+ :.:5 :. :8'49,583':/54:5.5==+9++/::5*'? )+4:;8/+93'696'/4:/4-9'4* 6.5:5-8'6.95,/8A(+,58+ !&"$-!)% '4*',:+8:.++'8:.7;'1+ $'$("! +96/:+:.+ +'8:.7;'1+ %!"$& ?5;)'49:/229++<+9:/-+95, %%($'#&"!&& /8A9'8)./:+):;8'2-258?,853 )"'&&% :.+ :.'4* :.)+4:;8/+9 5453/15E'4*8?:.85E The volcano='9'):/<+ ":'<85E=.+8+9+<+8'2 ,58)+4:;8/+9(;/2*/4-;6 3'49/549.'<+(++48+9:58+* :5:.+ +>6259/54 #.+68+::?5).8+).'6+25, Agios Stylianós)2/4-/4-:5 :.++*-+5,:.+)2/,,/9=58:. Crater of 22 sq km Clouds)54:'/4/4-352:+485)1 ' '$&$"$ cathedral/9*+*/)':+*:5:.+ $$'%")&$ &6'6'4:C:.+ 8+9+4:':/545, !&"&("$& .8/9:/4:.+#+362+;/2: &)("$:9;4'3/) /4 /:/9'4/3659/4- (%&&!"!$& 5).8+(;/2*/4-=/:.:=5

1

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A huge volume of lava

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3

A donkey ride up the steps from Skála Firón to Firá

Volcano walls up to 300 m (985 ft) high

Thirasía

Aspro Nisí

Palaiá Kaméni

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#(5;69E50/(:4<*/;66--,9(7(9;-964;/,-9,8<,5;3@ 7/6;6.9(7/,+(;;9(*;065:6-09C$/,9,(9,:64, */(9405.053(5+=033(.,:(5+,?*,33,5;),(*/,:(; (4C90(5+!,9E::(>0;/;/,09365.:;9,;*/,:6-)3(*2:(5+ &6<*(5(3:6=0:0;:64,6-#(5;69E50:>05,90,:69;(2, (-,99@69)6(;;6;/,:4(33,90:3(5+:$/,9,(9,.66+)<: :,9=0*,:)<;(*(969)02,>033(336>@6<469,-9,,+64 ;6,?7369,(169:0;,::<*/(:5*0,5;$/E9((5+296;E90 /(=,-9,8<,5;)<:6969.(50A,+;6<9:,9=0*,: 04769;(5;(5+>,(3;/@ Ancient Thíra, situated at the end *644,9*0(3*,5;9,),-69,0; of the Mésa Vounó peninsula >(:)(+3@+(4(.,+05;/, ,(9;/8<(2, $6+(@ E(0:+,:0.5(;,+( ;9(+0;065(3:,;;3,4,5;/(=05.

),,5*(9,-<33@9,*65:;9<*;,+ (-;,9;/,,(9;/8<(2,;:>/0;, 11 km (7 miles) SW of Firá. to Kamári. 8am-2pm Tue– (5+7(:;,3*636<9,+/6<:,: >0;/9,+7,))3,>(33:*305.;6 Sun. main public hols. Períssa A blue and ochre painted ;/,*30---(*,>0;/;/,-(46<: 200 m (600 ft) below. housefront in Oía 644(5+05.;/,96*2@/,(+ "*(=,/6<:,:(5+)3<, +64,+*/<9*/,:#64,6-;/, 3(5+6-D:(%6<5F4 ,63(::0*(34(5:065:)<03;)@ -;<765;/,

:/076>5,9:*(5:;033),:,,5 :6<;/,(:;*6(:;;/, 11 km (7 miles) NW of Firá. 4(9)3,7(=,+7(;/>(@:209;: 9<05:6-;/,690(5 400. ;/,,+.,6-;/,*(3+,9(;609C ;6>56-5*0,5; ;;/,569;/,95;076-;/, #;(09*(:,:3,(++6>5;6 $/E9((9,:;033=0:0)3, 0:3(5+;/,),(<;0-<3;6>56- 94D50(5+ ",*63650A,+(-;,9 ;/,5,(9)@ E(0:-(46<:-690;::7,*;(* ;/,.9,(;,9<7;065 <3(9:<5:,;:767<3(90:3(5+ -0:/05./(9)6<9 ;/,9<05: ,?*<9:0650:;6/(=,+055,905 (;Ammoúdi>0;/0;: :;(5+65;,99(*,:6=,9 -36(;05.7<40*,:;65,: 65,6-;/,4(5@9,:;(<9(5;: 366205.;/,:,( (;;/,,+.,6-;/,()@::(:;/, (5+9,+7,))3,),(*/ Rock carving ?*(=(;,+)@;/, in Ancient ,94(5(9*/(,636.0:; :<5:052:),/05+;/,*(3+,9( $/,;9(+0;0656-)6(; Thíra 033,9=6569;905.,505 )<03+05.*65;05<,:(; **69+05.;63,.,5+;/, ;/, :46:;6-;/, (;46:7/,90*;6>50:/(<5;,+ 94D50::4(33-,99@+6*2 (5+/64,;6=(4709,: (;;/,)(:,6-;/,*30--(3;/6<./ 9<05:+(;,-964;/,!;63,40,: >/6)<03;;,473,:;6;/, ",(*/,+)@65,6-;/, ;/,769;0:56>4(053@<:,+ 46:;;69;<6<:96(+:05;/, .@7;0(5.6+:05;/, ;/(5+ )@;6<90:;)6(;:+,7(9;05. @*3(+,: E(0:;/,0:3(5+: 9+*,5;<90,:$/,9,(9, +(03@-69;/,:4(330:3(5+ ;/09+769;(5+>(:(5 (3:6 ,33,50:;0*(5+"64(5 6-$/09(:E( 9,4(05:$/,;/*,5;<9@ #(5;69E50=(:,:;/(;>,9, +0:*6=,9,+/,9,(9,56> /6<:,+0509C:9*/(,6 36.0*(3<:,<4 7(;/;/96<./;/,:0;, 7(::,:(5,(93@/90:;0(5 )(:030*(9,4(05:6-790=(;, /6<:,::64,>0;/46:(0*: ;/,(.69(694(92,;(5+( ;/,(;9,>0;/(:/,,9=0,> +6>5;6;/,:,( 5;/,-(9 >,:;0:(9+*,5;<9@ :(5*;<(9@*<;05;6;/,96*2 -6<5+,+)@9;,4E+696:6- !,9.,(5(+409(36-;/, !;63,4(0*-3,,;;-,(;<9,: 9,30,-*(9=05.:6-(5,(.3,( 3065(+637/05(5+(7/(33<: :@4)630A05.;/,.6+:',<: 76336!6:,0+65(5+!90(7<: $6;/,,(:;65;/,$,99(*, Ammoúdi fishing village overlooked by Oía on the clifftop above 6-,3,)9(;065:@6<*(5-05+ For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp313–17 and pp336–8

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A local in Réthymno wearing traditional Cretan boots and headdress

A palm-fringed estuary meets the sea at Préveli Beach on Crete’s southern coast

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WILDLIFE TOUR OPERATORS Honeyguide Wildlife Holidays 36 Thunder Lane, Norwich, Norfolk NR7 0PX. Tel 01603 300552. www.honeyguide.co.uk The colourful yellow bee orchid

The catchfly with its sticky stems

Cretan ebony, endemic to Crete

Naturetrek Cheriton Mill, Cheriton, Alresford, Hampshire SO24 0NG. Tel 01962 733051. www.naturetrek.co.uk

WILD FLOWERS ON CRETE 27$1,6769,6,75(7(,17+(,57+286$1'6($&+;($572 (1-2;7+(63(&7$&8/$5',63/$;2):,/')/2:(56"+(;$5( $77+(,5%(67$1',1*5($7(67352)86,21)520(%58$5; 72$;;/$7(81(:,7+7+(681$7,76+,*+(67,17+( 6.;0$1;+$9(:,7+(5('$1'7851('%52:12672) 7+26(7+$781'(5*27+,675$16)250$7,216859,9(7+( 6800(5$681'(5*5281'%8/%62578%(56

Pure Crete 79 George St, Croydon, Surrey CR0 1LD. Tel 020-8760 0879. www.purecrete.com

Wildlife Travel The Manor House, Broad St, Great Cambourne, Cambridge CB3 6DH. Tel 01954 713575. www. wildlife-travel.co.uk

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The magnificent beach of Falásarna with its long stretch of sand and turquoise waters

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Moní Chrysoskalítissas near Palaióchora

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp317–20 and pp338–40

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THE BATTLE OF CRETE (1941) 6336>15/;0-6++<7);1656.9--+-15&693,&)9 -94)5.69+-:15=),-,9-;-$06<:)5,:6.-94)5;9667: >-9-7)9)+0<;-,15;6;0-0)51B,1:;91+;>0-9-;0-@:-1A-, B3-4-)19769;65 )@ $0- );;3-6.9-;-9)/-, .1-9+-3@.69;-5,)@:>1;001/0 +):<)3;1-:65*6;0:1,-:331-, ;9667:9-;9-);-,;0960-9->1;0;0-0-376.36+)3:;0-@ >-9--=)+<);-,.964;0-1:3)5, 6<9@-)9:6.-94)56++<7);165 .6336>-,,<915/>01+0;14- 1473)+)*3-36+)39-:1:;)5+-2-7; <7;0-79-::<9-65;0-15=),-9: <5;13;0-19.15)3:<99-5,-915

See pp252–3.

6 km (3.5 miles) NW of Chaniá. Soúda. Chaniá & Soúda. Stavrós 14 km (9 miles) N of Chaniá. Maráthi 10 km (6 miles) E of Chaniá.

3);*@9-;)5:;)5,)9,:;0- 296;D91!-515:<3)31-:*- ;>--5"C;0@456

)5,0)51B

;1;:*):-65;676.!96.D;1: German parachutists in Crete, 1941 3D):01331:):0915-;69-;-: 5);165)30-963-.;0C916: %-51AC36:

1:;64* ):;<5515/3)5,:+)7-6. 1:)73)+-6.713/914)/-.691; #;133/96>15/):)9-:69;;0- ;-99)+-,0133:)5,46<5;)15 =133)/-0):9664:;69-5;)5, >):0-9-;0);9-;)59-*-3: =133)/-:56;-,.69;0-19 9)1:-,;0-9--2.3)/15 ).->;)=-95):)5,*)9:$0@A)5;15-+0<9+0-:$0*-)+01:365/)5,7-**3@;1: 15,-.1)5+-6.;0-9-); +36:-:;6.;0-:-1:Anýdri 24 6=-93662-,*@;0-=133)/- !6>-9: 413-:-):;6.!)3)1E+069) +0<9+0>01+01:*<13;65;67 $0-9-)9-:-=-9)3 >1;0;0- ;0+-5;<9@,6<*3- 6.)@A)5;15-:;9<+;<9- 465):;-91-:15;0-569;0 >06:-46:)1+.3669:0)=- -):;-950133:6.;0-7-515:<3) 5)=-,+0<9+06.Agios *--53)9/-3@9-46=-, Moní Agías Triádas>01+00): Geórgios+65;)1515/ .9-:+6-:*@6B551: )51479-::1=-4<3;1,64-, !)/64C56:605;0- Environs +0<9+01: ;0+-5;<9@>013- 96A-5.964 <:;6=-9)506<9: Moní Gouvernétou,);-:*)+2 5:<44-9),)13@ >)32>-:;6.#6F/1) ;6;0--)93@%-5-;1)56++< *6);:-9=1+-9<5:;6 ;0-)5+1-5;+1;@:;);- 7);165652::;133150)*1; Elafonísi)3)/665 6. Lissós>):) *6;0 -)9*@*<;)++-::1*3- 312-*-)+06./63,-5 .36<91:015/+644-9+1)3 653@65.66;;0-)*)5,65-, Moní Katholikoú1:7)9;3@ :)5,)5,*91331)5;*3<- +-5;9-15-33-51:;1+ +)9=-,6<;6.;0-96+2 >);-99640-9-) )5, "64)5;14-: #1;<);-,);;0-5-+26.;0- 24413->)32569;0 Fresco by Ioánnis 465/;0-9-4)15: 7-515:<3)1:)4131;)9@*):- )9-;>6.15- ;0 ;)2-:@6<;6Moní Pagoménos, Agios Geórgios +-5;<9@091:;1)5 Chrysoskalítissas )5,;0-Commonwealth War 63,-5 #;-75)4-, *):131+):)9,+-5;<9@ Cemetery*<91)3/96<5,6. .69;0-:;-7:3-),15/<7;6 :23-71-165;-473-6. 6=-9 91;1:0 <:;9)31)5 1;:+0<9+065-6.>01+01: 0-)315/)5,):)5+;<)9@$0- )5, ->(-)3)5,:63,1-9: :)1,;6)77-)9/63,-5);3-):; 96<;-;61::E:3-),:<7 2133-,15;0-);;3-6.9-;- 15;0--@-:6.;0-=19;<6<:; ;0961;0-?7-91-5+-,

24 413-::6<;06. 012-9:73)5:)9-<5,-9>)@;6 Cemetery 4 km (2.5 miles) SE of Chaniá ):;C331 1::B46<964 ,-=-367;0-/69/-)365/;0- daily. !)3)1E+069)*6);;917:4)2- 315-:6.;0-#)4)91B 69/- ;0-96
Chaniá. 270. Soúgia; Lissós 3 km (1.5 miles) W.

5+-1:63);-,.964;0-9-:; 6.;0->693,);;0-46<;06. ;0- /D) 19D51 69/-;0- 0)43-;6.#6F/1)1:56> 3152-,>1;00)51B)5,;0- 569;0+6):;*@)/66,96),

Goats grazing on the Akrotíri Peninsula

!

$

)8%+%-278%74)'8%'90%6&%'/(6343* 1%.)78-'13928%-27%2(%59%1%6-2)7)%7 ,%2-@-732)3*8,)-70%2(71378%44)%0-2+ '-8-)7%2(%+33(&%7)*631;,-',83 )<4036);)78)626)8)8778%8)0=)3 0%77-'%01%27-327%2(1%77-:)")2)8-%2 Olive oil tin, *368-*-'%8-3278)78-*=838,)'-8=7896&90)28 %2((-:)67)4%782')8,)-23%27)880) Chaniá covered 1)283*%2'-)28=(32-%,%2-@,%7&))2 market *39+,83:)6%2('3286300)(&=31%27 =>%28-2)7")2)8-%27)23)7)!96/7%2( +=48-%273003;-2+92-*-'%8-32;-8,6))')-2 8,)-70%2(7%;=)8%238,)6-2:%7-32(96-2+#360(#%6 ?8,-78-1)&=8,))61%2%61=-2 ;,)28,) %880)3*6)8)6%+)(%6392(,%2-@

The Venetian Fort Firkás overlooking Chaniá’s outer harbour

28,)38,)67-()3*8,)398)6 ,%6&3968,)Mosque of the 3783*8,)'-8=7-28)6)78-2+ Janissaries(%8)7&%'/838,) 7-+,87%6)83&)*392(-28,) %66-:%03*8,)!96/7-2 30(")2)8-%259%68)6%6392( 8,),%6&396%2(7966392(-2+ %2(-78,)30()788831%2 &9-0(-2+328,)-70%2(8;%7 %00)=;%=788,)2368,;)78 (%1%+)((96-2+#360(#%6 43-283*8,)398)6,%6&396 8,) Naval Museum7'300)'8-32 %2(6)'327869'8)(7332%*8)6 3*13()07,-47%2(38,)6 ),-2(8,)13759)6-7)78,) 1%6-8-1)%68-*%'87-7(-740%=)( ,-0083459%68)63*%78A00-8,) 30()784%683*8,)'-8=;,)6) -28,);)006)7836)(")2)8-%2 8,)-23%27)880)1)283* 368-6/@7?%0738,)7)88-2+ Kydonia-792()6+3-2+)<'% *368,)%86)%2():)2-2+73* 86%(-8-32%0(%2')-27911)6 :%8-32!,)7-8)'037)(838,) The Harbour

A tranquil view of Chanía’s old harbour at dawn For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp317–20 and pp338–40

The Mosque of the Janissaries

49&0-'&98'0)%60=:-7-&0)*631 8,)63%(-7%4463%',)(%032+ B8,-232%786))80-2)(;-8, 362%8)")2)8-%2(336;%=7 %2=3*8,)*-2(7*6318,) 7-8)%6)32(-740%=-2,%2-@7 6',%)303+-'%097)91 -2'09(-2+%'300)'8-323*'0%= 8%&0)87-27'6-&)(;-8,-23%2 -2)%67'6-48 =8,)-22)6,%6&39678%2( 8,)23;()6)0-'8 8,')2896= ")2)8-%2%67)2%07;,)6) 7,-47;)6)32')7836)(%2( 6)4%-6)(!,)")2)8-%20-+,8 ,397)%88,))2(3*8,)7)% ;%003**)67794)6&:-);73:)6 ,%2-@ Naval Museum Fort Firkás, Aktí Kountourióti. Tel 28210 91875. daily.

main public hols.

Around the Covered Market

322)'8)(838,),%6&396 &=,@0-(328,-789623*8,) ')2896='3:)6)(1%6/)8,%7 %;-():%6-)8=3*03'%0*69-8%2( :)+)8%&0)7327%0))%',(%= %7;)00%76)8%2739:)2-67 032+7-()8,)'3:)6)(1%6/)8 8,)&9780-2+ /D=(03836 8-:%2@(-/%%&392(7-27,347

!

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Chaniá. 50,000. 16 km (10 miles) E of Chaniá. Soúda bay. Kydonías (long distance), Plateía Agorás (around Chaniá). Kriári 40 (28210 92943). Mon–Thu, Sat (veg & clothes). Nautical Week (end June). Agía Marína 9 km (6 miles) W; Plataniás 11 km (7 miles) W.

The atmospheric backstreets of the old Splántzia quarter

3''94%8-32;-8,6)&)00-327 %2(-2:%7-32787)<,-&-87 -2'09()4,383+6%4,7%2( 0)88)673*8,)*%139778%8)7 1%20)*8,A6-37")2->A037 ? %7;)00%71%2= 38,)6,-7836-'%06)'36(7

Historical Museum and 7)00-2+%1-7')00%2=3*0)%8,)6 1-2%6)8%2(2)%6&=%6)8,) Archives +33(7-2'09(-2+86%(-8-32%0 8,')2896=',96',3*Agioi Sfakianáki 20. Tel 28210 52606. Anárgyroi;-8,-87&)%98-*90 6)8%2&3387%2(1%()83 Mon–Fri. main public hols. 1)%796)7%2(%07!,)2)%6&= -'327%2(4%-28-2+7%2(8,) Archaeological Museum-7 ',96',3*San Rocco;,-', Environs ,397)(-28,)")2)8-%2',96', ;%7&9-08-2 7)6-)73*7%2(=&)%',)7 3* %26%2')7'3%2((-740%=7 Outside the City Walls 786)8',)7;)78*631,%2-@%00 %68-*%'87*631;)78)626)8) 398,3*8,)'3:)6)(1%6/)8 8,);%=838,)%+6-'90896%0 -2'09(-2+4388)6=7'904896) %032+!>%2%/@/-%6)8,) 83;23*!%:632B8-7 /1 137%-'7%2('3-278,%8(%8) Public Gardens 1-0)7%;%=7,368;%0/;)78 *631)30-8,-'8-1)7 838,)31%2)6% !,)=;)6)0%-(398 3*,%2-@8,)7%2(=&)%',3* -89%8)(2)<883 -28,) 8,')2896= +-3-4C78303--759-)8)6%2( 8,)197)91-7% &=%!96/-7, 0)77():)034)(8,%28,)'-8= &)%',)7 71%00+%6()28,%8 +3:)6236!,) 968,)6;)788,);)008)2()( '328%-27%!96/-7, +%6()27-2'09()% *3928%-2 )8&%'/ 13()78>33;,-', German War Cemetery78%2(7 ;-82)77838,)%-6&362)0%2(-2+ -28,)759%6)32 ,397)7%*); 8,)34437-8)7-() %2-1%07-2'09(-2+ %8@0)1)3*8,))61%2%61= 838,)197)91-7 -2 9-08-283 8,) 8,) 8,) 8,')2896= 6)8%2;-0(+3%8 8,)7-()3*%,-008,)4)%')*90 !,)+%6()27%073 '%8,)(6%03* 7)88-2+-7,31)833:)6 Dionysos and Ariadne mosaic, Chaniá Agía Triáda 3**)6%',-0(6)27 +6%:)7;,37)7-140)7832) Archaeological Museum 1%6/)67033/3983:)68,) 40%=%6)%%'%*A Archaeological )(-8)66%2)%271%00 %2(%234)2%-6 Museum 4%:-0-32&=8,))286%2')83 %9(-836-91;,-',-73*8)2 Chálidon 21. Tel 28210 90334. 97)(*3603'%0')6)132-)7%2( 8,)')1)8)6=,397)7%(-740%= 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun. '311)136%8-2+8,)):)28 '90896%04)6*361%2')7!,)

main public hols. 2)%6&= Historical Museum German War Cemetery and Archives-7,397)(-2% 19 km (12 miles) W of Chaniá. The Splántzia Quarter )30%77-'%0&9-0(-2+%2(-7 Tel 28210 62296. daily. 368,)%783*8,)1%6/)8 ():38)(838,)6)8%246) 8,) 40@28>-%59%68)6-7% 4-'896)759)%6)%3*8,)30( 83;2;,)6),397)7;-8, ;33()2&%0'32-)73:)6,%2+ 8,)'3&&0)(&%'/786))87 !,)86))0-2)(759%6) /23;2%7Plateía 1821 '311)136%8)7%6)&)00-32 %+%-2788,)3''94=-2+!96/7 (96-2+;,-',%268,3(3< &-7,34;%7,%2+)(32 8,)7438:)6033/-2+ 8,)759%6)78%2(78,) ")2)8-%2',96',3*Agios The sandy beach of Agioi Apóstoloi, a short walk west of Chaniá Nikólaos;-8,-878692'%8)(

(%,.121/%#2!#3+!0+!-$1#!/% )-0%2%+)%1!+.-'2(%!,!0)7 .0'%2(%+.-'%120!4)-%)- 30./%(%-2(%'.0'%5!1 %12!"+)1(%$!1!-!2).-!+/!0*)- 2(%)-(!")2!-21.& /!12.0!+!,!0)74)++!'% ,.4%$%+1%5(%0%+%!4)-' Paeonia clusii, "%()-$2(%2)-6#(!/%+11%%- Samariá Gorge 2.$!6 2!02)-'&0.,2(% 6+:1*!+. *,,)+%11.32(.& (!-)7!5%++20.$$%-20!)++%!$1$.5-! 2.023.31 *,,)+%#.301%2.2(% 1%!1)$%4)++!'%.&'9!.3,8+)(%5!+* 2!*%1&0.,&)4%2.1%4%-(.301!2%0 &.3-2!)-1#!-"%&.3-$%-0.32%!-$ 1230$61(.%11(.3+$"%5.0-

$ $)!2&)!*) -!+ 0#5*"#&1!1 '+ .!+ .&&% %)!#* . ! )&'**+)!% $ +!%+ !)*+ "$$!#&+ .#"

Facing east across the spectacular Samariá Gorge

Omalós Plateau

$ !*+!%0 '#%*+#*,%) + * &'!%*%0')*** %)+ &++&$&+ 0#5*"#&

THE KRI-KRI (CRETAN WILD GOAT) .3-$)-.-+6!&%5!0%!1.&0%2%-.2!"+62(%!,!0)7 .0'%2(%0%2!-5)+$'.!2)12(.3'(22."%!203+65)+$ 0%+!2)4%.&2(%!++2..-3,%0.31&%0!+'.!212(!2 !0%&.3-$2(0.3'(.322(%%$)2%00!-%!-0%').- !15%++!1)-.2(%0/!021.&2(%5.0+$ /0.2%#2%$1/%#)%12(%0%2!-5)+$ '.!2)1-),"+%!-$130%&..2%$.- 03''%$2%00!)-!220)"32%12(!2(%+/ '3!0$!'!)-12!22!#*1"6.2(%0 /0%$!2.01!230%!$3+21(!4% !220!#2)4%+6,!0*%$#.!21!-$ (.0-15)2(2(0%%0)-'1!+.-' 2(%)0+%-'2(

0 kilometres

2

A kri-kri on rocky terrain

0 miles

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp317–20 and pp338–40

1

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 44 km (27 miles) S of Chaniá, Chaniá. to Xylóskalo. Agía Rouméli to Sfakíá (via Loutró); to Palaiochóra (via Soúgia); last boat back leaves at 5pm. Gorge May–mid-Oct: 6am–4pm daily (10 Apr–31 Oct if weather permits).

Agios Geórgios

Osía María!

2)-6#(30#( 12!-$)-'!22(% &..2.&! 12%%/#+)&& #.-2!)-1 &0%1#.%1 $!2)-'2. 2(% 2( #%-2306

Agios Christós Metamórphosis

$ + "$ $!#*#&%+ &) + )&,+*(,1*+.%+.&+&.) !%)&".##*&%#0 $+')+ &)$!%+ $&,*)&%+*+ %))&.*+')+&+ &)

Agía Paraskeví Agios Geórgios Agía Rouméli (Old Village)

#" &.(,!''.!+ +-)%*%&$2+! )&&$*+&#++ **!-!##&4 &,$3#!.*&%+ ,%+&'!)+*% + '&)+,*+&/'&)+0')**.&&+&0'+

KEY Tourist information Parking Natural spring (drinking water)

STAR SIGHTS

Xylóskalo (Wooden Stairs)

Asphalt road Park boundary Path Viewpoint

Samariá Village Sideróportes (Iron Gates)

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! !

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rchaeological Museum +74398*7;*8&843*,7*&94:9 )447(&+*9*7.&(&9*7.3,&12489 4((:5.*8&(43;*79*)":70.8- '&89.4398(411*(9.43.88*94:9 *=(1:8.;*1>+4794:7.8989.8 80.79*)&143,24894+.981*3,9- (-743414,.(&11>+742*41.9-.( '>&,44)8&3)>'*&(-':9 9-74:,-.34&394 42&3 &9.98<*89*73*3)1.*8&82&11 9.2*8&3).3(1:)*8&79.+&(98 .33*7-&7'4:77*8947*) +742(*2*9*7.*88&3(9:&7.*8 &3)(&;*8.39-*7*,.43 9-(*39:7> lighthouse 89&3)843.98'7*&0<&9*7 .,-1.,-98.3(1:)*9-* "-* Fortétsa 1&9*.34&3':7.&1 )42.3&9*89-*94<3 (&80*98 &'4;*9-*.33*7 &3),7&;*,44)8 -&7'4:7*8.,3*) "-*41)94<3 '>&11&;.(.3..39-* (1:89*78'*-.3)9-* 8.9<&8':.19 479D98&(-&7&( 9*7.?*)'>&2&?*4+ 94)*+*3)9-*5479 3&774<;.3*(&345.*) &,&.3895.7&9*&99&(08 897**98&3).98#*3*9.&3 &7'&7488&-&) Traditional &3)9942&3-4:8*8 )*;&89&9*)9-*94<3 weaving in the .3 &3)9-*9-7*&9 <.9-<74:,-9.743'&1 Historical and 4+*=5&38.43.89":708 (43.*8++1&9*E& Folk Art Museum "E94:*4(-C0..89-* "-*7&25&798&7*89.11 Nerantzés Mosque 1&7,*1>.39&(9$.9-.3 "-.8.89-*'*8957*8*7;*) 9-*2&2486:*&82&11 2486:*.39-*(.9>:.19&8& (-:7(-&3)5&7984+9-*,4; *734786:&79*78(&389.11'* (-:7(-'>9-*#*3*9.&38.9 8**39-4:,-2489&7*34< <&8(43;*79*).3 .394& .37:.38:7.3,9-*8:22*7 2486:*'>9-*":708934< 9-*7*&7*45*3&.7(43(*798 8*7;*8&89-*(.9>8(43(*79-&11 Exploring Réthymno

The 17th-century Nerantzés Mosque

3&1&.41F,4:9-* 9- (*39:7>#*3*9.&3Rimóndi Fountain<.9-1.43-*&)*) 854:9889&3)8&143,8.)*':8> (&+D8&3)8-4588*11.3,+7*8- 574):(*"-**1*,&39 9- (*39:7>#*3*9.&3Lótzia 4,,.&(&3&184'*8**3-*7* "-*82&11Historical and Folk Art Museum.8-4:8*).3 &#*3*9.&32&38.433 ).851&>-*7*&7*14(&1(7&+98 .3(1:).3,842*'7.11.&391> (414:7*)<*&;.3,5499*7> 1&(*&3)/*<*11*7> Fortétsa Katecháki. Tel 28310 28101. May– Oct: daily. main public hols. Archaeological Museum Cheimárras. Tel 28310 54668. Tue–Sun. main public hols.

Lótzia Palaiológou & Arkadíou. Tel 28310 53270. Mar–Sep: Mon–Fri. main public hols. Historical and Folk

Art Museum Vernárdou 30. Tel 28310 23398. May–Oct: Mon–Sat. main public hols.

Tavernas and bars along Réthymno’s waterfront, the focus of the town’s activity Fishing boats lining the picturesque Venetian harbour of Réthymno

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Réthymno. 24,000. off Plateía Karaolí. Kefalogiánnidon. Elefthériou Venizélou (28310 29148). Mon at Askoútsi. Wine Festival: mid-Jul; Renaissance festival: mid–end Jul.

Environs

&894+ D9->23494<&7)8 C3472489-*7*8479)*;*145 2*398+14<43*.394&349-*7 <-.1*<*894+9-*(.9>& 02 2.1*897*9(-4+7*1&9.;*1> :3(74<)*)'*&(-(:12.3&9*8 The magnificent shell of Frangokástello set against a dramatic backdrop .39-*;.11&,*4+Georgioúpoli *85.9*<-41*8&1*94:7.89 548.9.43&89-*1&89(4&89&1 +:1+.1*;*7>97&;*11*78+&39&8> (422:3.9>4+&3>8.?*:39.1 4+&@7*&1B7**0;.11&,*3 )*;*1452*399-.882&11 &1&.F(-47&

8:22*7&)4?*39&;*73&8 (422:3.9>89.117*9&.38842* :94+++7429-*4:98.)* &3)-4:8*8574;.)*74428 4+.9897&).9.43&1&9248 <471):39.17*(*391>.9.8 &3)2*&18+4794:7.898!2&11 5-*7*&88.;**:(&1>59:8 1.991*<43)*79-&9-.8947. '4&98&7*&;&.1&'1*949&0* 97**81.3*9-*897**98&3) 94:7.898943*&7'>C;)48 (&11>9-*14(&1!+&0.49 &5.(9:7*86:*9:791* .3-&'.9*)7.;*7+14<8 (1&382*3*3/4>9-*.7 .81&3)&3)9-*'7*&9-9&0.3, 51&(.)1>)4<3949-*8*& 7*5:9&9.43+477:,,*)8*1+ '&>&74:3)!<**9<&9*7'*&(- Lake Kournás 02 8:++.(.*3(>&3).3).;. 2.1*8.31&3)+742 ):&1.82&1'*.9&((42 *47,.4G541..88*9.3 5&3.*)'>9-*34947.4:8 &-4114<&243,9-* +*:).3,"-*;.11&,* 94)&>.81&7,*1>)*;49*) 89**51>7.8.3,-.118 14 km (9 miles) E of Sfakiá, Chaniá. 9494:7.82&3)2&0*8& *)&14*8<.3)8:7+8 daily. ,44)89*55.3,4++54.39 &3)(&34*8(&3'* +479-*84:9-<*89(4&89 -.7*)&99-*1&0*&3) A Sfakiot in :.19'>9-*#*3*9.&38&8& &+*<8-&)>9&;*73&8 traditional dress Environs ':1<&70&,&.3895.7&9*8&3) 4++*77*+7*8-2*398 $*894+!+&0.C&12489.257*, :37:1>!+&0.498.3 1.991* 372D34.439-*2&.3 D9->234A,E&&1E3.74&) 3&'1*24:39&.3851:22*9.394 7*2&.384+9-*.39*7.474+ 9-*7*.8&3*=9*38.;*1&9* 9-*.'>&3!*&&114<.3,85&(* 7&3,40C89*1144<*;*7.98 Minoan cemetery<-*7*& +47/:89&(4:51*4+9.3>8*991* (:79&.3<&118&7*<*1157*8*7;*) 1&7,*3:2'*74+,7&;*8-&;* 2*398&((*88.'1*431>'>'4&9 &3)+742&'4;*9-*84:9- 4743+449&143,9-* (4&89&1 *397&3(*9-*#*3*9.&3.434+ '**3*=(&;&9*)842*<.9- 5&9-"-*(148*894+9-*8*.8 .2548.3,1>143,*397&3(*8 !9&70144084:9948*& 243,9-*(439*398:3*&79-*) Loutró&(-&72.3,&3)7*249* 4C33.8&80&14,.C33.89-* !+&0.491*&)*78:77*3)*7*) 8549<-48*8-*19*7*)(4;* &7*'743?*<*&5438;&8*8 &3)':7.&1(&80*98 (:7;.3,'*&(-&3)1.991*<-.9* -*7*.3 &3)<&8+1&>*) &1.;*.37C01*.4'>-.8":70.8- 34<43;.*<.39-*&7(-&*4 -4:8*8<.9-'1:*8-:99*78 (&59478.+9>>*&781&9*7 14,.(&12:8*:284+-&3.C -&9?.2.(-C1.8&1.C3.8&

&3) D9->234 7**0+7**)42+.,-9*7<7*89*) Minoan Cemetery 9-*+479+7429-*":708&3) 9 km (6 miles) S of Réthymno. 97.*)94-41).9<.9-&3&72>4+ Tue–Sun. main public hols. /:89 2*345*1*881> 4:93:2'*7*)-*&3)&11-.8 +4114<*78<*7*2&88&(7*)'> 9-*5.9.1*88":708*,*3)-&8.9

9-&9&99-**3)4+&>&9)&<3 9-*.7841*238-&)4<8(&3'* Chaniá. 400. 28250 8**3(1.2'.3,:5949-*(&891* 91205. Sweetwater 3 km (2 miles) .7*(91>'*14<9-*+4797*88 W of Loutró. .8&8&3)>'*&(-<-48*<&9*78 &7*8-&114<&3)<&72&3.)*&1 ;*71440.3,9-*.'>&3 8549+47+&2.1.*8<.9->4:3, !*&&99-*24:9-4+9-* (-.1)7*38(&99*7.3,4+-49*18 '7*&9-9&0.3,2574847,* The quiet bay and whitewashed &3)9&;*73&8(&9*7+47-41.)&> !+&0.C&184034<3&8-F7& 2&0*78&3)5&88.3,24947.898 !+&0E43*3/4>8&(422&3).3, houses of Loutró

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp317–20 and pp338–40

% # $ $ # ( #

;9--:)6,+@89-::-:)9/-4@ 9-*<14;);;0--6,7.;0- ;0 +-6;<9@;0-57:;1589-::1=- 7.1;:*<14,16/:1:;0-,7<*4- 6)=-,+0<9+0>1;0)6796);- &-6-;1)6.)C),->01+0,);-: *)+3;7 %0-576):;-9@897=1,-,) :).-0)=-6.791;:.7447>-9:16 ;15-:7.9-41/17<:8-9:-+<;176 *@47+)4<:415: 67=-5 *-9 >0-61;:*<14,16/: >-9-+97>,-,>1;00<6,9-,: Boats lining the small harbour at Plakiás 7.9-.,-9:;79-9775314416/ +-6;<9@Moní Agíou 091:;1)6)6,<:415 Ioánnou67>367>6 Réthymno. 100. Damnóni )413- %0--6:<16/ ): B;7!9D=-41>): 3 km (2 miles) E. +)96)/-+9-);-, .7<6,-,*@**7; 16:;)6;5)9;@9:.79 6+-):1584-.1:016/0)9*7<9 !9D=-41)6,)*)6 .9--,75>07:- :-9=16/;0-=144)/-:7.H9;017: ,76-,16;0- ;0 :)+91.1+-1:67; )6,$-441B!4)31B:0):/97>6 +-6;<9@16.)=7<9 16;7).<44:+)4-9-:79;>1;0)44 .79/7;;-6 7.;0-579:+<48;<9-7<;:1,- ;0-<:<)4.)+141;1-:;:/9-@ :;9);-/1+87:1;176 :)6,@*-)+01:6-)94@ 35 7.;0-89-:-6; ;0-576):;-9@ Venetian façade of the 514-476/$1;-,);;0-57<;0 ,-81+;:;0-764@ 576):;-9@ *7<; 7.;0-7;:@.7G79/-)6, 35 514--):; church at Moní Arkadíou :<9=1=16//194)6, >1;0/77,97),+766-+;176: ;0-)**7;>0741; 7.76E!9D=-41) !4)31B:5)3-:)6-?+-44-6; ;0-/<687>,-9%7,)@) :;--88);04-),:;7Préveli :5)445<:-<5,1:84)@: *):-.79-?847916/;0-9-/176 *-)+0)4:7367>6):7<9 :)+9)5-6;)4=-::-4:1+76: ;)41F;13779!)45-)+0) Environs +9@:;)4+4-)98)45.916/-,7):1: 89)@-9*773:=-:;5-6;:)6, 516<;-,91=-79):+-61+ ;91*<;-:;7;0-5)9;@9: >)43)97<6,;0-0-),4)6, Environs 4-),:-):;;7;0-*-)+07. Damnóni%16@+7=-:*-@76, ; 9+0)E)4D.;0-96) 35 1;7..-9/77,:>15516/ 514-:679;0-):;7.76E 741,)@)8)9;5-6;:)9-*-16/ 24 km (15 miles) SE of Réthymno, 93),E7<41-;0-9<16:7.;0- Réthymno. to Réthymno. *<14;76;0-),271616/0144 )6+1-6;+1;@:;);-7.Eléftherna daily. museum only. "<1-;Soúda*-)+041-:35 7<6,-,16)44;0); monastery only. 9-5)16:1:);7>-976)97+3@ 514-:>-:;7.!4)31B: 91,/-)6,),-9-41+;-44-61:;1+ *91,/-16;0-=)44-@*-47> %0- ;0+-6;<9@576):;-9@ 79;0-):;7.4D.;0-96);0- 7. 93),E7<:;)6,:);;0- ;787.)>16,16//79/-);;0- =144)/-7.Margarítes1:>-44 -,/-7.).-9;14-9-/1767..9<1; 367>6.791;:87;;-9@

14 km (9 miles) E of Plakiás, Réthymno. Tel 28320 31246. daily. museum only.

++-::1*4-*@97),;09779316/576):;-9@7.!9D=-41 :;)6,:16)61:74);-,*<; *-)<;1.<4:87;7=-9477316/;0- :-);84)@-,)897516-6;974- 16;0--=)+<);1767.441-, .79+-:.9756-)9*@*-)+0-: ,<916/'794,')9 %0-*<14,16/:+4<:;-9)97<6, )4)9/-+-6;9)4+7<9;@)9,,);16/ .975 %0-9-1:) ;0 +-6;<9@+0<9+0)6,):5)44 5<:-<5,1:84)@16/9-41/17<: )9;1.)+;:16+4<,16/:14=-9 +)6,4-:;1+3:)6,:75-01/04@

The isolated buildings of Moní Préveli, nestled into the rocks

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp317–20 and pp338–40

# %

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+)6 *- :--6 7<;:1,- &)44-@ 7..-9: :;)//-916/ =1->: ;0- 47+)4 ;)=-96): %0- )9-) 1: 7=-9 ;0- 9-/176: 97+3:;9->6 ,7;;-, >1;0 :0916-: +0<9+0-: 8-)3:*97),/9--6=)44-@:)6, )6, 576):;-91-: 0)9*7<916/ ,9)5);1+ /79/-: %>1:;16/ @A)6;16- .9-:+7-: )6, Detail from the church of *<; >-448)=-, 97),: 4163 the Panagía at Méronas 1+76: %9),1;176)44@ )6 )9-) ;0- 5)6@ :5)44 )/91+<4;<9)4 7.9-;)69-:1:;)6+-5)6@7. +755<61;1-:7.;0-5B91>0-9--=-6 ;0- 5B91 =144)/-: >-9- ,-:;97@-, ;7,)@57<:;)+017-,5-61636--01/0 ,<916/'794,')9 Thrónos 1

%0-*-)<;1.<44@.9-:+7-, +0<9+07.;0-!)6)/E)); %09F67:,);-:*)+3;7;0- ;0+-6;<9@;:;144*-)9: ;9)+-:7.57:)1+:.975)6 -)94@091:;1)6*):141+) *<14;16;0- ;0+-6;<9@ Olive groves in the Amári Valley

Moní Asomáton 2

Méronas 8

%0-&-6-;1)6*<14,16/:7. Moní Asomáton67>)6 )/91+<4;<9)4+744-/-:;)6, 16)4<:07):1:7.8)45 84)6-)6,-<+)4@8;<:;9--:

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Gerakári 7

1

Amári 3

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$$ -9)3B911: .)57<:.791;: .9-:0)6, *7;;4-,+0-991-: 8 )6,+0-99@ *9)6,@

2

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Vizári 4

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#

7

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TIPS FOR DRIVERS

Ano Méros 5

Length: 92 km (57 miles). Stopping-off points: There are local tavernas in every village en route. The taverna at Ano Méros offers spectacular views over the valley. Opposite the ruined church outside Kardáki is a shaded area and water fountain, an ideal stop in the heat of summer (see also p370).

4)9/-5)9*4- >)95-5791)4 2<:;7<;:1,-67 KEY D97:,-81+;:) Tour route >75)60->16/ Other roads 7<;;0-6)5-:7. '794,')9 Viewpoint #-:1:;)6+-0-97-:

#

! "

5

Kardáki 6

4

%

0 kilometres 0 miles

5 2

For additional map symbols see back flap

& $ % ! % $ ) $

Réthymno. to Anógeia & Kamáres.

> 70>>2/ =9+<381:/+5=90 9?8>.3 9<#=3693=+2/-<9A8 3811692/7+==3@/ #=3693=<+81/&2/2312/=> 79?8>+3838/3>3=297/ >97+8C=+8->?+<3/=38-6?.381 >2/0+79?=.+3+8+@/ <978H1/3++:+@/.<9+. 6/+.=>9>2/Nída Plateau+ 49?<8/C90 57 736/= >2<9?12<9-5C>/<<+38:?8- >?+>/.,C>2/9--+=398+6=>98/ =2/:2/<.=2?>/+@/<8+-+>/<=>9@3=3>9<=/8 <9?>/>9>2/Idaian Cave+ 0?<>2/< 738?>/235/?:>2/ 2366&23=2?1/-+@/<8A2/30+->=38-6?.381=97/ 3810<97-%97/ 90>2/+<>30+->=-+8,/=//838 >2/<E56/39<-2+/96913-+6 ?=/?7 <97 >2/:6+>/+?7+<5/.><+36=6/+. ?:>9>2/:/+590Mount Idi A236/+=29<>.3=>+8-/+A+C+ >38C=539:/<+>/=+> A//5/8.=-98.3>398=:/<73> >3810<97/-/7,/<>9 +<-2 "8>2/79?8>+38==9?>2/<8 0+-/+29?<=-<+7,6/0<97 +7E9>2/ Kamáres Cave /2/ 0+79?= 389+8:9>>/2/<E56/39 <-2+/96913-+6 ?=/?7

CRETAN CAVES AND THE MYTH OF ZEUS &2/3=6+8.90/3=297/>9 -+@/=+8.:9>296/= 90A23-2=97/ 2+@/,//8/B:6923>37/=-+@/=2+@/,//8?=/.+=-?6>-/8>2+8-3/8>+87C>29691C>2/35>3+8 +8..+3+8-+@/=+A990>2/3=6+8.=79=>@3=3>/. --9<.381>96/1/8.$2/+1+@/,3<>2>9>2/380+8>19.*/?= 38>2/35>3+8+@/A2//->/.,C A+<<39<=+8.8?<>? /A+=>2/8-98-/+6/. +8.<+3=/.38>2/.+3+8+@/ >9:<9>/->2370<9723=0+>2/< <989=A292+.=A+669A/. 23=9>2/<900=:<381+0>/<+ A+<8381>2+>2/A9?6.,/ ./>2<98/.,C98/9023= =98= &2/ .+3+8+@/A+=+8 37:9<>+8>:361<37+1/-/8>37/= Stalagmites in the Diktian Cave (see p273), Lasíthi

+,<98D/=>+>?/90++8 2/<938><+.3>398+6.2/7/79<3+6+2/79=>=318303-+8>.+>/=38 Réthymno. 2,300. /=:+=> 312?:38>2/#=3693= /<902<3=>3+8+38<+81/>2/=7+66 @366+1/908H1/3+.+>/=,+-5 +> 98G<5+.G9? >9>2/ >2-/8>?3980<97/<7+8 2+==?00/?<,?6/8>:+=> 9--?:+>398 &+@/<8+==29:= 2+@381,//8./=><9C/.,C>2/ +8.,+85=+?+>/. 38>23=:+<>90>9A8 &?<5=38 +8. +8. >2/8-97:6/>/6C+0>/< &2/96.@366+1/>?7,6/= .9A8>2/=>//:=69:/=38>9+ ./=>398,C>2//<7+8 +<7C38 A+</::/. 9./<88H1/3+37+>/6C-98@/<1381 +<9-5C<3.1/A3>23>=9A8 98+63>>6/=;?++66=+8. =;?++@/<8+=/

The Nída Plateau between Anógeia village and the Idaian Cave, Mount Idi For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp317-20 and pp338-40

$ &

Woman selling locally made rugs and lace in Anógeia

9069-+6:963>3-3+8'+=G6/39= %59?6E==>+8.=8/B>>9+6/== 09<7+6A99.-+<@3819023= 0<3/8.'/83DF69= ,C 69-+6+<>3=> +8H63=%59?6E= &2/=>+66=38>2/96.:+<>90 >2/@366+1/+,9?8.3869-+66C 7+.//7,<93./6C-969?/=7+38-/8>+@/<8+==/<@/ 1<366/.19+>=7/+>+8.9>2/< +8=:/-3+63>3/= ?=3-/8 >2?=3+=>=-+8:+C>2/3<= +>>2/=2<38/90!G59=(C69I<3= + =0965=381/+8/+<6C+1/+8.A29=/ 63>>6/A23>/A+=2/.29?=/ 9@/<6995=>2/7+38=;?+
Préveli,/+-2+> 98G#9>2/ Paximádia islandsA2/2/
+6609?8.38>23=+>2/<E56/39 <-2+/96913-+6 ?=/?7 @3./8-/90>2/ @366+=37:9<>+8-/3=:<9@3./. ,C+038.90-6+C=/+6=+8.<++,6/>=,/+<381>2/?8./-3 :2/ 9669A381>2/@366+=./=>398,C0398>2/=3>/&2/ >6/7/8>>9>2/89<>2 A3>23>=?83;?/:9<>3-9/.<9A 90=29:=.+>/=79=>6C0<97 >23=:/<39.+=.9/=>2/7+1 8303-/8>:+38>/.=+<-9:2+1?= >2+>A+=09?8.38>2/-/7/ >/9>2/89<>2&2/:+38> A9<598>2/=+<-9:2+1?= ./:3->=+,?<3+6:<9-/==3983> -+8,/=//838>2/<E56/39 <-2+/96913-+6 ?=/?7

3 km (2 miles) W of Phaestos, Irákleio. to Phaestos. Tel 28920 91564. daily. main public hols. Kómo 10 km (6 miles) SW; Mátala 15 km (9 miles) SW.

&2/ 389+8@366+901G+ &<3E.+A+=/B-+@+>/.,C>2/ >+63+8=0<97 >9 8 =2+:/.=>?A+=,?36> +<9?8. >2/>37/90 >2/ %/-98.#+6+-/:/<39. 9@/= :<3@+>/+:+<>7/8>=+8.:?,63- 398<997=+/. 38>2/+816/90>2/9@/< Réthymno. 1,040. Agía 6995381+<9+.>2+>7+C2+@/ Galíni. 6/.>9>2/=/+C:=?70+-381 +8.7+18303-/8>0?+>/.+>>2/=9?>2/<8/8.90 >9+.9<8>2/A+66=90>2/=/ >2/7E<3'+66/C1G++6G833= <997=$3-2 389+8>2/-+<@/.=>98/ >9.+C+0?66,69A8>9?<3=> +<@/=>/<'+=/9B/< $2C>98 &2/9<3138+6@366+1/ 4?1+8.23/0>+38?:A/=3= .A+<0/.,C>2/7+==902963 .+C+:+<>7/8>==>-2381?: >2/-9+=>&2/2+<,9?<0<98> 3=+63@/A3>2,?=C>+@/<8+= =8?116/.,/>A//8>2/A+>/< +8.-6300=?=>,/C98.>2/ 2+<,9?<>2/=7+66=+8.C,/+-2 3=:9:?6+2=?8,+>2/<=

Agía Triáda archaeological site

Environs

>>2/@366+1/90'H<9357 736/=89<>2/+=>901G+ &<3E.+3=>2/0+=-38+>381 Museum of Cretan Ethnology 3=:6+C/.2/398 90>996=+8.7+>/<3+6=?=/.38 >2//@// ?:>9>2//+<6C >2-/8>?
Ethnology Tel 28920 91394. Apr–Oct: daily; Nov–Mar: Mon–Fri. main public hols.

Environs

&+B3,9+>><3:==+36.+36C0<97 1G+ +6G83=2+<,9?<>9>2/ 8/312,9?<381,/+-2/=90 Agios Geórgios+8.Agios Pávlos+8.0?<>2/<=>366>9

Agía Galíni resort, nestled into the rocks at the foot of the Amári Valley

!

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See pp266–7.

Γρτυ

Irákleio. Tel 28920 31144. 8am–7pm daily. main public hols.

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp317–20 and pp338–40

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The bema (area behind altar) of Agios Títos basilica, Górtys

Exploring the Ruins

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$562)C46;5,16+(1($4%; 8,//$*(2)Agioi Déka,56+( 6+&(1674;;<$16,1(&+74&+ 2)6+(5$0(1$0(69$5%7,/6 216+(53269+(4(6(1($4/; +4,56,$14(6$159(4(0$46;4(' ,1 )246+(,423325,6,21 626+(20$103(424(&,75 16+(1$8(2)6+(&+74&+,5$1 ,&2132464$;,1*6+(6(10$4;645

13th-century icon of the ten martyrs, Agioi Déka church

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The ruins of the praetorium, the once-grand palace complex of the governor of the province, Górtys

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North court

First Palace shrine complex

"#+&('-&',%+,#* +/"#"%+-) ,()*()1%(')(*" '(%(''%#!", /%%/+,"&#' ',*',(,")% THE PHAESTOS DISC )*32/5.%$,"9%*3$ $- *.$)&3*.%*"-&4&2 7"3%*3$/6&2&%"4)"&34/3*. .3$2*#&%/. #/4)3*%&37*4)0*$4/2*", 39-#/,34)"430*2",'2/- 4)&$*2$5-'&2&.$&*.4/ 4)&$&.42&.//.& )"39&4#&&."#,&4/ %&$*0)&2*43-&".*.( /2*%&.4*'9*43/2*(*.3 4)/5()*4*30/33*#,9 "3"$2&%)9-. )&%*3$*3/.&/' 4)&-/34*-0/24".4 &8)*#*43"44)&2;+,&*/ 2$)"&/,/(*$",53&5- +)) 2 For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp317–20 and pp338–40

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 65 km (40 miles) SW of Irákleio. Tel 28920 42315. May– Oct: 8am–7pm daily; Nov–Apr: 8am–5pm. 1 Jan, 25 Mar, Good Fri am, Easter Sun, 1 May, 25, 26 Dec.

The main hall*3

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STAR SIGHTS

Grand Staircase Central Court

RECONSTRUCTION OF SECOND PALACE Storerooms

Engraved stones room Royal apartments

Workshops Central court

Peristyle hall Grand staircase North court

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West court and theatre area

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>/7=;<7=<0-74,0):*7=:1; ,7516)<-,*A<0-&-6-<1)6 fortress?07;-,)=6<16/4A 5);;1>-;<:=+<=:-;=++-;;.=44A :-8=4;-,8:7476/-,);;)=4<; *A<0-16>),16/$=:3;16<0- <0+-6<=:A)5-,<0- 7:<76<0-#-)*A Irákleio’s boat-lined harbour, dominated by the vast Venetian fortress For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp317–20 and pp338–40

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Irákleio. 116,000. 5 km (3 miles) E. E of Venetian harbour. Leofóros Papadimitríou (for Réthymno, Chaniá, Agios Nikólaos and Ierápetra); Plateía Kóraka (for Mátala). Xanthoudídou 1 (2810 246299, [email protected]). Sat.

Summer Festival: Jul–Sep. Amoudára 10 km (6 miles) W.

The Bembo drinking fountain, Plateía Kornárou

<0+-6<=:A Bembo fountain );<)476/>E:7.!4)<-F) 4-.<0-:F);:--,75#9=):- 1;,7516)<-,*A);<)<=-7. 4-.<0E:17;&-61BE47; C <0-8741<1+1)6+-6<:)4<7 :-<-;=6176?1<0:--+- .. <0-;9=):-<0-8-,-;<:1)61B-, )1,D47=1;/77,.7:;078;)6, :-;<)=:)6<;=;<<7<0-67:<01; <0- Irákleio Archaeological Museum ")6, 5)16<7=:1;<7..1+-$0--);< ;1,-7.<0-;9=):-)*=<;<0- &-6-<1)6:)58):<;.:75?01+0 <0-:-):-/77,>1-?; #7=<07.<0-<7?6*-A76, <0-74,+1
Museum of Natural History

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Neória. Tel 2810 324711. Tue–Sun.

Environs

Loggia 25 Avgoústou. Tel 2810 245245. Mon–Sat. main public hols.

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Fortress Venetian harbour. Tue–Sun. main public hols. Historical Museum Lysimáchou Kalokairinoú 7. Tel 2810 283219. Apr–Nov: Mon–Sat. main public hols. Museum of Religious Art Agía Aikateríni of Sinai, Plateía Agías Aikaterínis. Tel 2810 288825. Mon–Sat. main public hols.

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Phaestos Disc Bull’s Head Rhyton Snake Goddesses

Minoan vase with double axe motif

! %&0#&+")1" &+,+30" #/,*)9 (01/,4&& 1 &0 !" ,/1"! 4&1%&*$"0 #/,*1%"0"

Stairs to first floor

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

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp317–20 and pp338–40

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST %&0/"/"01"!#"*)"4&1% Corner of Xanthoudídi & Mpofór, 0+("&+"&1%"/%+!&01%" 0*))"/,#14,#:"+ "#&$2/&+"0 Plateía Eleftherías, Irákleio. Tel 2810 224630. 1%,2$%11,/"-/"0"+11%"0+(" closed for renovation $,!!"00,/-/&"01"00-"/#,/*&+$ until end 2008. /")&$&,20/&12)0,1%!1"#/,*/,2+! ground floor only. +!4"/"#,2+!1+,0;0

First floor

%"#*,20&+,+#/"0 ,"0+!,1%"/ 02-/"*""5*-)"0,#&+,+/1 +" #,2+!&+1%&0/,,*%"!&0-)6&+ )2!"0 1%&0"),/1")6#/"0 ,"!$9/&8! 0/ ,-%$20!1&+$#/,*/,2+!

KEY TO FLOORPLAN Neolithic and early Minoan Middle Minoan Middle–late Minoan Late Minoan Geometric The Ring of Minos and the Minoan Gold Rings Archaic and Greco-Roman

The Hall of the Sarcophagi

$0/5"*/4%&$03"5&%$0''*/4 '30.7"3*064"3$)"&0-0(*$"- 4*5&4"306/%3&5&

Non-exhibition space

GALLERY GUIDE Gardens Entrance

%"$/,2+!#),,/$))"/&"0/"//+$"! %/,+,),$& ))6#/,* ",)&1%& 1%/,2$%1,,*+1&*"0))"/6 ,+1&+0 )61)"10 &+0 /&"!&+&+"/+!1&/0#/,*$))"/6 )"!1,1%" #&/01#),,/4%"/"1%"&+,+#/"0 ,"0/""5%&&1"!&+$))"/&"0 +! ))"/6(+,4+01%")),#1%"/"0 ,"0 %,20"0*,!"),#1%") ",#+,0;0

4(+3 1.4-# 3'$%(123/ + "$.% -.2:26 2#$231.7$#!7 -$ 13'04 *$ (- !.43 -#6 22..- ".,/+$3$+71$!4(+3'$1$23.1$#14(-2 5(2(!+$3.# 7 1$ +,.23$-3(1$+7%1.,3'(2 2$".-#/ + "$'$%." +/.(-3.%3'$2(3$ (2(325 23-.13'82.43' +(&-$#$-31 + .413.%%6'("'+($, -7.%3'$/ + "$2 ,.23(,/.13 -3 1$ 2,** 3'$ .1(&(- +%1$2".$2 1$(-3'$ 1"' $.+.&(" + 42$4,.%19*+$(.,** 3

View across the Central Court towards the northeast

Stairs to Piano Nobile (upper floor)

Kouloúres (storage pits) Modern entrance

West Court West Magazines

To Theatre and Royal Road

The Tripartite Shrine

%.1,$1+7/1.3$"3$#!7 1..%6 2.-$.%, -7 2'1(-$2% "(-&.-3.3'$ $-31 +.413

Bust of Sir Arthur Evans

#--#(!)(-",).-" 4-",+,-)+ ")+(,+,2')&) -",+.&&( 0).&)("/ )+(-"-)* ) -"*&

The South House,

/ 13+71$23.1$#6 2 .-"$3'1$$23.1$72 '(&'36 2/1.! !+7 3'$1$2(#$-"$.% / + "$.%%("( +

Corridor of the Procession

(-+(-)-"*&0,-"+).!"-"#,')(.'(-& *#&&+!-02)+-0#-"+*&#) -"4/ $ 1$1 #!.+-#& +)'-"1."$22(.- +,) For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp317–20 and pp338–40

"#,+*&#) -"1($23(-& +,)&,)%()0(,-" 1(-"$.%3'$(+($2#,-#& +)'-"1."$22(.- +,) (*#-, #!.+0+#(! +)0() &#&#,( -"+,

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 5 km (3 miles) S of Irákleio, Irákleio. Tel 2810 231940. May–Oct: 8am–7pm daily; Nov–Apr: 8am–6pm daily. 1 Jan, 25 Mar, Good Fri am, Easter Sun, 1 May, 25, 26 Dec.

#-"#-,$)#(#(!(-"'+(&.,-+&,#(-""+)( ))'#,&#/-)"/,+/,,"+#(")+#!#(& ,-)(-"+)(-").!"--)-"-) *+#,-,,#,!.+2 +,-)+ +,)) !+# #(,,+,2')&,#(#()(-#', North Lustral Basin

Charging Bull fresco

North entrance

North Pillar Hall (Customs House)

The magazines of the giant pithoi".-3 (-) 12

# 3(-&%1.,3'$(123 + "$ /$1(.#" Hall of the Royal Guard

/+!#(-/(3'.( ,-)+!$+,0+ .(+-"- (),5,"$+, 0+.,-) ,-)+*& ,.**&#,

King’s Megaron (Hall of the Double Axes)

Central Court Grand Staircase

STAR SIGHTS

Priest-King Fresco Throne Room Giant Pithoi Royal Apartments

Queen’s Megaron

",+))',#(&. -"#(!,!+)(&,) %()0(,-"&&) -" ).&1, -".(, !+)(0"#"#, )+-0#-")*2) -" ').,)&*"#( +,)(",($24(3$-"+))' (-" +(-#+,

!

$

"20-/)38,)6-23%27-8)78,)%0%')3*237B7;%7 -1%+-2%8-:)0=6)7836)(&= -6 68,96 :%27&)8;))2 %2( #,-0),-7-28)646)8%8-327%6)8,)79&.)'8 3*%'%()1-''32863:)67=,-76)'327869'8-3273*8,) 7)'32(4%0%')(3+-:)8,):-7-836%2-146)77-323*0-*) -2-23%26)8)8,%8'%223873)%7-0=&)+%-2)(*631 8,)38,)64%0%')7328,)-70%2( 78)470)%(94838,)6)'32 7869'8)( Piano Nobile8,) 2%1)+-:)2&= -668,96:%27 838,)463&%&0)03'%8-323*8,) !,)4%0%')'3140)<-7)2 +6%2(78%8)%4%681)287%2( 8)6)(:-%8,)West Court8,) 6)')48-32,%007 832):%7)7 *392(-28,-74%683*8,)4%0%') 36-+-2%0')6)132-%0)286%2') ;)6)97)(*366-89%0496437)7 23;1%6/)(&=%&9783* -6 %2(-2(-'%8)8,)')286%0-8=3* 68,96 :%27 !38,)0)*8%6) 8,6))'-6'90%64-87/23;2%7 6)0-+-32834%0%')0-*)!,) '037)0-2/&)8;))27)'90%6 ;,-',463&%&0= %2(7%'6)(43;)6-7 7)6:)(%7+6%2%6-)7 ,)%(%032+8,)0)2+8, %0736)-2*36')(&= 3*8,);)78*%?%()%6) 8,) Throne Room 8,) West Magazines ;,)6)6-89%0&%8,-2+ !,)7)'328%-2)( -2%09786%0&%7-2 291)63970%6+)7836%+) 792/)2&%8,-7 .%67 %2( 8,39+,883,%:) %032+;-8,8,) 8%/)240%') 8)47 +6%2%6-)7+-:)%2 0)%(*6318,) -146)77-323*,3; !,632)331838,) 32')4%:)(Central -14368%288,)'328630 Court 3;34)283 3*6)7396')7%2( Shield motif, Knosós 8,))0)1)2878,-7 7836%+);%7%7% &%7-7*368,)43;)6 ;390(,%:)32') 3*8,)4%0%') &))2*0%2/)(&=,-+,&9-0( 88,)*%66-+,8,%2('362)6 -2+732%00*3967-()7 3*8,)#)7839688,);)78 )286%2')0)%(7838,)Corridor THE ROYAL APARTMENTS of the Procession 3;'98 7,368&=)637-323*8,),-007-() 8,)'366-(367*6)7'3)7()4-'8 28,))%787-()3*8,) )286%039680-)633173* -2+%7)6-)73*+-*8&)%6)67 7))1836)*0)'88,)')6)132= 79',7->)%2()0)+%2')8,%8 8,%8%''314%2-)(78%8)%2( 8,)=,%:)&))2-()28-*-)(%7 6)0-+-397):)287%88,)4%0%') 8,) 3=%0 4%681)287 !,) !,-7-7*968,)66):)%0)(-28,) %4%681)287%6)&9-08-2838,) *6)7'3)73*8,)South 7-()3*8,),-00%2(%'')77)(&= Propylon83;,-',32) 8,) Grand Staircase32)3* &6%2',3*8,)'366-(360)( 8,)1378-146)77-:)796:-:-2+ 6318,) 398,634=032 %6',-8)'896%0*)%896)73*8,) AROUND THE SOUTH PROPYLON

Restored clay bath tub adjacent to the Queen’s Megaron

4%0%')!,)*0-+,873*+=4791 78%-67()7')2(83%'30322%()( '3968=%6(463:-(-2+%7396') 3*0-+,8838,)03;)67836)=7 !,)7)0-+,8;)007;)6)%8=4-'%0 *)%896)3*-23%2%6',-8)'896) (6%-2%+)7=78)1;%7463 :-()(*368,)83-0)8&)7-() 8,) Queen’s Megaron;,-', )2.3=)(8,)09<96=3*%2 &%8,6331'3140)8);-8, '0%=&%8,89&366-(367%2( 63317%0-/)-28,-7%6)%;)6) ()'36%8)(;-8,*6)7'3)73* *036%0%2(%2-1%0138-*7!,) ;%0073*8,)Hall of the Royal Guard%,)%:-0=+9%6()( 0%2(-2+0)%(-2+838,)3=%0 4%681)287;)6)()'36%8)( ;-8,%7,-)0(138-*!,) King’s Megaron%073/23;2 %78,)%003*8,)39&0) <)78%/)7-872%1)*6318,) *-2)(39&0)%<)7=1&307 -2'-7)(-283-877832);%007 !,)0%6+)783*8,)63317-2 8,) 3=%0 4%681)2878,) -2+7)+%632'390(&) (-:-()(&=1908-40)(3367 +-:-2+-8+6)%8*0)<-&-0-8=3* 74%') )1%-273*;,%81%= ,%:)&))2%40%78)68,632) ;)6)*392(,)6)79++)78-2+ 8,%88,)6331;%7%07397)( *36731)78%8)*92'8-327 NORTH AND WEST OF THE CENTRAL COURT

Replica of the celebrated Charging Bull fresco For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp317–20 and pp338–40

!,)2368,)286%2')3*8,) )286%03968;%7%(362)( ;-8,6)1%6/%&0)*-+96%8-:) ()'36%8-32!3(%=%6)40-'%3* 8,) *6)7'3'%2 &)7))2327-8)!,)2368,

)286%2')0)%(7838,)North Pillar Hall2%1)(%78,) 978317 397)&= -6 68,96 :%27;,3&)0-):)(1)6',%2 (-7);%7-274)'8)(,)6)!,) ,%00-7%2%((-8-323*8,) )'32(%0%')4)6-3(' 11)(-%8)0=838,);)78 -7%6331;-8,6)7836)(78)47 0)%(-2+-283%4330/23;2%7 8,) North Lustral Basin !6%')73*&962-2+%2(*-2(7 3*3-0.%6779++)788,%88,37) '31-2+838,)4%0%');)6) 496-*-)(%2(%223-28)(,)6) &)*36))28)6-2+968,)6;)78 -78,)Theatre%78)44)( '3968;,37)437-8-32%8 8,))2(3*8,)3=%0 3%( 79++)7878,%86-89%07'322)'8)( ;-8,8,)6)')48-323*:-7-8367

The stepped court of the theatre

1%=,%:)3''966)(,)6)!,) Royal Road;,-',0)%(7 %;%=*6318,)%0%')838,) -23%283;23*237B7;%7 0-2)(;-8,,397)79783**8,) 3=%0 3%(0-)78,)73'%00)(

Little Palace !,-7&9-0(-2+

,%7&))2)<'%:%8)(&98-7 23834)2838,)49&0-'8-7 %6',-8)'896%00=:)6=7-1-0%6 838,)1%-24%0%')%2(;%7 ()7863=)(%88,)7%1)8-1)

THE HISTORY OF KNOSOS !,)'%4-8%03*-23%26)8)237B7;%78,)0%6+)78%2(1378734,-78-'%8)( 3*8,)4%0%')7328,)-70%2(8'328%-2)(3:)6 63317%2()2.3=)( 8,)'31*36873*%2)0%&36%8)(6%-2%+)7=78)1*097,-2+83-0)87%2(4%:)( 63%(720)+)2(237B7;%7&)0-):)(83&)8,)7)88-2+3*%292()6+6392( 0%&=6-28,()7-+2)(83-146-7328,)-238%96!,-7,%0*1%2,%0*&900;%7 &3623*-2+-2377;-*)%7-4,%@%2(70%-2&=!,)7)97!,-76)'327869' 8-327,3;78,)7)'32(4%0%')%7-81-+,8,%:)033/)(-2%&398 Labyrinth symbol on a coin from Knosós

Stairs to Piano Nobile (upper floor)

Royal Apartments

Throne Room

Corridor of the Procession

Grand Staircase

TIMELINE 7000 BC

66-:%03*8,) *-678-2,%&-8%287 3* 237B7

c.1450 )'32(4%0%')(%1%+)(

4377-&0=&=-28)62%0;%6*%6) %0%')4)6-3( '327869'8-323* 8,)4%0%')

7000 BC

2000

AD 1878

c.1370 BC

)'32( 4%0%') ()7863=)( &=*-6)

c.2000 BC-678

1500

c.800 BC

-8=78%8) 3* 237B7 )1)6+)7

1000

1750–1700 BC-6784%0%')()7863=)(

&=)%68,59%/) )'32(%0%') 4)6-3( '327869'8-323*8,) 7)'32(4%0%') c.1450–1250 BC=')2%)%27

8%/)'3286303*237B7

c.1100 BC

36-%2-2:%7-32 3* 6))')2( 3* 632>)+) %2(&)+-22-2+ 3* %6/ +)7

67 BC 6',%)303+-78 31%2 A237 %03 '3259)78 /%-6-2B7&)+-27 3*6)8) )<'%:%8-327 3*8,)7-8)

500

AD 1 AD 1900 -6 68,96 :%27 &9=70%2(%2( 78%687)< '%:%8-327

$ " # # " & "

The modern seafront of Chersónisos, the busiest of Crete’s package-holiday resorts

Irákleio. 4,000. 2810 246296 (Irákleio office).

>(@-9649,;,:*6(:;(3 /630+(@9,:69;:9*/E5,:0:( +6>5;6,(9;/-(9405.*,5;9, >/,9,630=,.96=,:(5+:4(33 =05,@(9+:*/,8<,9;/,963305. 3(5+:*(7,@05.(;;/,-66; 6-;/,:(*9,+Mount Gioúchtas)<90(373(*,6- ',<:(**69+05.;636*(3 ;9(+0;0659*/E5,:>(:( ;/90=05.(5+04769;(5;:,;;3, 4,5;05056(5;04,: 5 ;/,9,4(05:6-( 056(5 palace>,9,-6<5+05 ;/,;6>56-$6<926.,0;650E :/69;>(326<;6-;6>565 6<95G/033;6;/,569;/30,:(5 ,?;,5:0=, Minoan cemetery 465.;/,;9,(:<9,:<5,(9;/,+ /,9,>(:;/,;64)6-( 7905*,::>0;/409969(5+.63+ +0(+,40573(*,(:>,33(: ,?8<0:0;,3@,5.9(=,+:0.5,; 905.:#64,6-;/,:,(9,56> 65+0:73(@(;;/,Archaeological Museum6-9*/E5,:

Minoan cemetery Fourní hill. Mon, Wed–Sun. main public hols.

Archaeological Museum Kalochristianáki. Mon, Wed–Sun. main public hols.

Irákleio. 4,050. 28970 22764. Chersónisos.

-36<90:/05.(5+)<:@769; -9643(::0*(3;6,(93@ Environs @A(5;05,;04,:/,9:H50:6: 5;/,569;/:367,6-6<5; :;90*;3@04F5(:/,9:65G:6< 06I*/;(:0:;/,:0;,6-( 0:;6+(@;/,*,5;9,6-;/, 056(5:(5*;<(9@(; 7(*2(.,/630+(@)<:05,:: Anemospiliá?*(=(;065: 40+;/,73,;/69(6-;(=,95(: <5,(9;/,+(:/6*205.:*,5, :6<=,509:/67:(5++0:*6: 6-/<4(5:(*90-0*,/,9, ;/,/(9)6<9:;0339,;(05: :,,405.3@05;,99<7;,+)@ -(05;05;04(;065:6- (5,(9;/8<(2,(96<5+ ;/,63+/,9:H50:6: 365.;/,>(;,9-965; >/0*/2033,+(33 (7@9(40+:/(7,+ -6<97(9;0*07(5;:$/6<./ "64(5 fountain>0;/ 30;;3,9,4(05:;6),:,,5 ;6+(@:,5:(;065(3=0,>:6- Hard Rock -0:/46:(0*:+(;,:-964 6<5;+0 *(5), Café sign at ;/, 5+C9+*,5;<9@ ,516@,+-964;/,:(5*;<(9@ Chersónisos #64,9,4(05:6- ;/, Roman harbour $/,Kazantzákis Museum (;@9;0E+0:73(@:4,469()030( 56>46:;3@:<)4,9.,+*(5 6-;/,(<;/696- (3:6),:,,5/,9,$9(+0;065(3 9,;(530-,0:9,*9,(;,+(;;/,

Kazantzákis Museum Cretan Open-Air Museum69 Myrtiá, 14 km (9 miles) E of B@*/56:;E;0:D>/,9,,?/0)0;: Archánes. Tel 2810 742451. 05*3<+,(>05+4033(:;65, Mar–Oct: daily; Nov–Feb: Sun. /6<:,(5+(.(33,9@$/, main public hols. Museum of Rural Life/6<:,+ 05( ;/*,5;<9@630=,6034033 +0:73(@:(9(5.,6-;9(+0;065(3 NIKOS KAZANTZAKIS -(9405.;663:<:,+),-69, 964;/,=033(.,6-@9;0EG26:(A(5;AE20: C ;/,05;96+<*;0656-46+,95 >(:9,;,:.9,(;,:;>90;,9,+0*(;,+;6;/,9,;(5:;9<..3, ;,*/5636.@$6*6636--;/, -69-9,,+64-964$<920:/9<3,/,>96;,76,4:7/036:67/0*(3 Aqua Splash Water Park0:( ,::(@:73(@:(5+56=,3:05*3<+05. (5+ 73(@.96<5+6-7663:>(;,9 :30+,:(5+>(;,9-(33: )6;/4(+,05;6

Cretan Open-Air Museum -034:?*644<50*(;,+ Lychnostátis. Tel 28970 23660. )@;/, 9;/6+6?*/<9*/ Apr–Oct: Mon–Fri & Sun. ;/,,70;(7/65/0:.9(=, main public hols. 059E23,06*65:0:;:6-

Museum of Rural Life /0:6>5>69+:B/67, Piskopianá. Tel 28970 23303. -6956;/05.-,(9 Apr– Oct: daily. 56;/05.(4-9,,D Poster of the 1960s film version of Zorba the Greek

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp317–20 and pp338–40

Aqua Splash Water Park 5 km (3 miles) S of National Highway. Tel 28970 24950. May–Oct: daily.

" $

36 km (22 miles) E of Irákleio. 2,700. Stalída 3 km (2 miles) NW.

$/,E30(6-7(*2(.,/630+(@ -(4,)<:;3,:560:03@>0;/:<5 :,,2,9:/,33),5;65,516@05. ;/,*96>+,+),(*/,:)@ +(@(5+;/,*(*67/65@6- *647,;05.+0:*6:)@50./; 54(92,+*65;9(:;;/,3,:: =0:0;,+056(5Palace of Mália 30,:058<0,;9<05:(365.;/, *6(:;(373(05;6;/,,(:;$/, -09:;7(3(*,>(:)<03;05 )<;302,(33;/,6;/,94(169 7(3(*,:0;:<--,9,++,:;9<*;065 05 (5+(.(0505 $/, :0;,05*69769(;,: 4(5@-,(;<9,: */(9(*;,90:;0*6- 6;/,9056(5 7(3(*,:C;/, .9,(;*,5;9(3*6<9; >0;/0;::(*90-0*0(3 (3;(996@(3(7(9; 4,5;:3<:;9(3)(:05: >(;,97663:(5+ Giant pithos 30./;>,33:*6<9; at the Palace @(9+:5(:4(33 of Mália :(5*;<(9@05;/, >,:;>05.6-;/, 7(3(*,;/,056(59,30.06<: :@4)636-;/,+6<)3,(?, *(5),:,,505:*90),+ 65;>057033(9: ,@65+;/,7(3(*,9,4(05: ;/6<./;;6),6-(;6>5(9, *<99,5;3@<5+,9,?*(=(;065 >/03,-<9;/,9569;/30,:;/, )<90(3:0;,6-Chrysólakkos 70;6-.63+4769;(5; ;9,(:<9,:>,9,9,*6=,9,+ /,9,05*3<+05.;/,-(46<: .63+),,7,5+(5;+0:73(@,+ 05;/,9E23,069*/(,636.0*(3 <:,<4

The chequered landscape of the agricultural plateau of Lasíthi

Palace of Mália 3 km (2 miles) E of Mália. Tel 28970 31597. Tue–Sun; Jul–Oct: daily. 28 Oct, main public hols.

Environs

$/,-(:;+,=,36705.=033(.,6- Sísi0::0;<(;,+ 24 403,: ,(:;6-E30(65;05<05.,(:; >(9+::;<5505.=0,>:4(92;/, +,:*,5;;6G3(;6:964/,9, (>,33:0.576:;,+;9(033,(+: ;6;/,Mílatos Cave>/,9,( :/905,(5+.3(::-965;,+ *(:2,;6-)65,:(9,(4,4690(3 ;6;/6:,4(::(*9,+/,9,)@ ;/,$<92:05 +<905.;/, 9,,2%(96-5+,7,5+,5*,

Díkti mountains, Irákleio. to Tzermiádo.

0./<705;/,-6940+()3, G2;046<5;(05:;/,)6>3 :/(7,+73(056-(:G;/0>(:-69 *,5;<90,::/<;6---964;/, 6<;:0+,>693+96>6-:;65,

>05+4033:(;;/,#F3047F36< !(::4(92:;/,4(05,5;9@;6 ;/,73(;,(<(-3(;(.90*<3;<9(3 (9,(3@05.4 -; ()6=,:,(3,=,3(5+,5*09*3,+ )@46<5;(05:9<0;76;(;6,: (5+*,9,(3:(9,;/,4(05*967: /,9,;/(52:;6;/,-,9;03,(33< =0(3:603>(:/,++6>5-964 ;/,46<5;(05:-,>*36;/ :(03,+>05+4033:(9,:;033<:,+ ;6+(@;67<470990.(;065>(;,9 365.;/,7,904,;,96-;/, 73(05(9,:,=,9(3=033(.,:;/, 3(9.,:;6->/0*/0:Tzermiádo >0;/.66+;6<90:;-(*030;0,: 7(;/-964$A,940E+6;6;/, Trápeza Cave(3:6256>5(: 9H5,065(=,0::0.576:;,+ -964;/,=033(.,*,5;9,;;/, >,:;,5+6-;/,=033(.,(96<./ 96(+1<:;6=,9(5/6<9:>(32 3,(+:<7;6;/,(9*/(,636.0*(3 :0;,6-Karfí;/,3(:;9,;9,(;6- 056(5*0=030A(;065 5;/, :6<;/,95,+.,6-;/,73(05 ;/,=033(.,6-Agios Geórgios /(:(:4(33Folk Museum:,; 05;>663+=033(.,/6<:,:(5+ +0:73(@05.(*633,*;0656- ,4)960+,9@7(05;05.:(5+ (A(5;AE20:4,469()030( $/,/0./30./;6-(=0:0;;6 (:G;/00:;/,*304);6;/, Diktian Cave(;!:@*/9H )09;/73(*,6-',<: >,(3;/6-(9;0-(*;:/(=, ),,5<5,(9;/,+/,9,05*3<+05. =6;0=,6--,905.:+6<)3,(?,: (5+)965A,:;(;<,;;,:56>05 ;/,9E23,069*/(,636.0*(3 <:,<4

Folk Museum Agios Geórgios. Mar–Oct: daily.

A small shrine in the multichambered Mílatos Cave

Diktian Cave Psychró. Tel 28440 31316. daily. 27 Sep, 28 Oct, public hols.

% # $

$ # ( #

/58>;2<1270,2=2.<,*55.-*=J *=J9;8<*6G;*=8@*;-<=1. *;,1*7-*=J=H;*!=1.; *=8*?270-.,527.-27 2698;=*7,.>7-.;&.7.=2*7 ;>5.2=@*<78=>7=25=1. =1 ,.7=>;B=1*=68-.;7028< 24J5*8<+.0*7=8-.?.589 8@*=1;2?270;.<8;=2=< ,.7=;.2<=1.1*;+8>;*7- @2=1*-.9=18/ 6 /= =1.56B;I*4.8;&8>52<6H72 !?.;5884270=1.5*4.=1.Folk The fortified islet of Spinalónga off the coast of Eloúnta Museum18><.<*,858>;/>5 -2<95*B8/=;*-2=287*5;.=*7 Environs ,;*/=<*7--86.<=2,2=.6<><= %1.<6*551*65.=8/Pláka 78;=18/=8@727=1.0;8>7-< 46625.<78;=18/58K7=* 8/=1.I78<"*5*,.8=.52< 6*4.;B Lasíthi. 1,500. 28410 /;86=1.+><=5.8/58K7=* ,1>;,18/Agios Nikólaos*/=.; 42464. Tue. Eloúnta. 27.87/;.<1/2<1*==1.@*=.; @12,1=1.=8@72<7*6.- !7,.=1.<2=.8/=1.*7,2.7= 58<.=8<.?.;*52698;=*7= /;87=@1.;.+8*==;29<*;. ,2=B<=*=.8/!58K<=1.=8@7 *?*25*+5.=8$927*5J70*2<5*7- 278*7<2=.<=1.Archaeological Museum*=028< 8/58K7=*@*<-.?.589.-+B 24J5*8<98<<.<<.<*=;.*<>;. =1.&.7.=2*7<27 *<* =;8?.8/*;=2/*,=<.-1.;. 2<*@.55.<=*+52<1.-1852-*B 27,5>-.,*;?.-<=87.?*<.< ;.<8;=2-B552,*55B<2=>*=.-87 085-[email protected].;B/;86=1.278*7 =1.2;*+H558>*B%1.=8@7 <2=.8/J,158<7.*;8>;72G 2<+5.<<.-@2=1*==;*,=2?. <*7-B,8?.<*7-8//.;<*088- *7-98==.;B27,5>-270=1. ;*70.8/*,,8668-*=287 -;274270?.<<.5478@7*< *<=8/=1.?255*0.*72<=16>< =1.8--.<<8/L;=8<!7. >72:>..A12+2=2<=1.<4>558/* 3827<=1.6*275*7-=8=1.5870 Skull and wreath, Archaeological 6*7=18>01==8+.*7*=15.=. <=;298/5*7-/8;6270=1. Museum, Agios Nikólaos ,8695.=.@2=1*@;.*=16*-. $927*5J70*9.727<>5*.;. 8/085-5*>;.55.*?.<*7-* ;.6*27<8/=1.;.,8#86*7 <25?.;,827/8;12<*7-;=.62< =1.6B=12,*5#2?.;$=BA ,*7+.-2<,.;7.-3><=+.58@ 7<>66.;+8*==;29<;>7=8 =1.@*=.;<<>;/*,.%8=1. $927*5J70*2<5*7-*7-0282 Lasíthi. 10,000. 78;=18/=1.9.727<>5*2<=1. "G7=.<*72<5*7-;./>0./8; Koundoúrou 21 (28410 22357). <6*552<5*7-8/Spinalónga Wed. Almyrós 2 km (1.5 miles) =1.;.=*7@25-08*==1. @1.;.*/8;+2--270 =1

E; Chavánia 3 km (2 miles) W. ,.7=>;B&.7.=2*7/8;=;.<<78@

Folk Museum <=*7-<-.<.;=.-*?270@2=1 !7.8/=1.68<=-.5201=/>5 Koúndourou 23. Tel 28410 25093. 1852-*B,.7=;.<27;.=. <=88-*<<*>5=/;86=1.%>;4< May–Oct: Sun–Fri. main /8;6*7BB.*;<2=<5*<=/>7,=287 028< 24J5*8<+8*<=<*<>9.;+ public hols. @*<*<*5.9.;,8587B>7=25=1. <.==27087=1.2;*+H558>*B 62- <%8-*B+8*=<;.0> 7.55.72<=2,=26.<*,,8;-270 Archaeological Museum Palaiológou 68. Tel 28410 24943. 5*;5B/.;;B=8>;2<=<=8=1.2<5*7- =827<,;29=287<-*=270+*,4=8 Tue–Sun. main public hols. =12<@*<87.8/=@8 /;8658K7=**7-.5<.@1.;.

The attractive inner harbour of Agios Nikólaos, with Lake Voulisméni in the foreground For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp317–20 and pp338–40

# %

Section of the Paradise fresco at Panagía Kerá in Kritsá

Lasíthi. 2,500. Mon. Ammoudára 11 km (7 miles) E; Istro 15 km (9 miles) SE.

$.=*==1./88=8/=1.*7=*27<;2=018>= ;.=./8;2=<BC*7=27. ,1>;,15<8*989>5*;,.7=;. /8;;.=*7,;*/=<2=<6*27<=;..= 2<*@*<1@2=15*,..5*+8;*=.5B @8?.7;>0<*7-.6+;82-.;.- =*+5.,58=1<->;270=1.<>66.; 687=1<;86=1.,*/H<*7- =*?.;7*<*5870=1.6*27 <=;..=/27.?2.@<8/=1.?*55.B 5.*-270-8@7=8=1.,8*<=,*7 +..738B.-B 8?.6+.; ;2=*=.-3><= 8//=1.;8*-*6870852?. 0;8?.<=1.1*[email protected] =1 ,.7=>;B,1>;,18/Panagía Kerá,87=*27<<86.8/=1. /27.<=/;.<,8.<27;.=.-*=270 /;86=1. =1=862- =1 ,.7=>;B%1.+>25-2702<=;295. *2<5.-@2=1=1.,.7=;*5*2<5. +.270=1.85-.<=.*>=2/>5 ;.9;.<.7=*=287<8/=1.52/.8/ 1;2<=*7-=1.&2;027*;B ,8?.;=1.27=.;28; Environs

8;=18/;2=27<8/ */8;=2/2.-,2=B/8>7-.-+B=1. 8;2*7<27=1.=1,.7=>;B Lató Etéra/58>;2<1.->7=25 5*<<2,*5=26.<@1.72=7.<-.,527.->7-.;#86*7 ;>5.2=@*<<>9.;<.-.-+B=1.

68;..*<25B ;.*,1.-98;=8/ *=J9;8<*6G;* =8-*B<028< 24J5*8<$2==270 9.;,1.-87* <*--5.[email protected] =@89.*4<=1. <2=.8//.;*B 9*?.-;8*- @2=1@8;4<189< *7-18><.<,5>< =.;.-87=1.;201= ,526+<>9=8* ,.7=;*5*08;*8; 6*;4.=95*,.@2=1 *,2<=.;7=8,855.,= ;*27@*=.;*7-* <1;27.!7=1.78;=1<2-. 8/=1.*08;**<=*2;,*<. /5*74.-+B=@8=8@.;<5.*-< =8=1.95*,.@1.;.=1.,2=B< *;,12?.<@8>5-87,.1*?. +..7<=8;.-%8=1.<8>=18/ =1.*08;**=.695.*7-* =1.*=;.,*7+.<..7 Lató 4 km (2 miles) N of Kritsá. Tue–Sun. main public hols.

Lace shop on Kritsá’s main street

Lasíthi. 15,000. Adrianoú (28420 22246). Sat. Agiá Fotiá 17 km (11 miles) E; Makr´ys Gialós 30 km (19 miles) E.

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=.695.<*6912=1.*=;.<*7- 2698<270+>25-270<=1.=8@7 =8-*B1*<*7*2;8/-.,527. 87.*;.*55<207<8/2=<*7,2.7= 12<=8;B=1*74<9*;=5B=89*<= 9255*0.*7-68;.;.,.7=5B =868-.;7D-.?.5896.7=F %1..7=;*7,.=8=1.85-1*; +8>;2<0>*;-.-+B*7.*;5B =1,.7=>;B&.7.=2*7fortress '.<=8/=1./8;=;.<<2<=1. *==;*,=2?.%>;42<1:>*;=.; @1.;.*;.<=8;.-mosque*7- .5.0*7=!==86*7/8>7=*27,*7 +.<..75<827=12<*;.*87 8>028>6=CG422<=1. =1 ,.7=>;B,1>;,18/Aféntis Christós*7-8//$*68>I5 Napoleon’s House@1.;.1. 2<<*2-=81*?.<9.7=*7201=.7 ;8>=.=80B9=27 %8-*B 2=2<78=89.7=8=1.9>+52, %1.<6*55Archaeological Museum27=1.,.7=;.8/=8@7 -2<95*B<*,855.,=2878/58,*5 *;=2/*,=<=1*=6*7*0.-=8<>; ?2?.6*;*>-.;<*7-?*;28>< *;,1*.85802,*59;.-*=8;<%1. .A12+2=<-*=./;86278*7=8 #86*7=26.<*7-27,5>-. +>;2*5,*<4.=< <=8;*0.3*;<<=*=>.<+;87C. *A.<*7-<=87.,*;?270< 7*568<=>7+;84.7527. 8/<*7-B+.*,1.<<=;.=,1.< .*<=@*;-;*7=<;86.;G9.=;*< 1*;+8>;*-*25B+8*=<.;?2,. ;>7<=8=1.2-B552,@12=.<*7-< *7-,.-*;/8;.<=<8/=1. >7271*+2=.- Chrysí2<5*7- Fortress Old port. daily. main public hols.

Archaeological Museum Adrianoú Koustoúla. Tel 28420 28721. Tue–Sun. main public hols.

Mosque and Ottoman fountain in Ierápetra’s old Turkish quarter

# ! " " ! & !

/(9)6<9>0;/;(=,95(:(5+ *(-F:*3<:;,905.(96<5+0;: ,+.,: )6=,;/,569;/,5+ Lasíthi. 7,500. 6-;/,/(9)6<9;/,9,:;69,+ Tue. Siteía. $,5,;0(5fort56><:,+(: (567,5(09;/,(;9,0:(33;/(; 9,4(05:6-;/,65*,,?;,5:0=, "5(205.0;:>(@;/96<./;/, -69;0-0*(;065:6-;/,;6>5 46<5;(05:),;>,,56<950D **<7@05.(9,56=(;,+63+ (5+ "0;,G(;/,(;065(3 0./ >(@;9(=,9:,::64,6-;/, /6<:,5,(9;/,/(9)6<9-965; 46:;4(.50-0*,5;:*,5,9@ ;/, Folk Museum+0:73(@:(5 05;,9,:;05.*633,*;0656-36*(3 059,;,#6>(9+: "0;,G( ;/,3(5+:*(7,.0=,:>(@;6 *6:;<4,:(5+>,(=05. )(99,5/033:(5+=05,@(9+: 5;/,:6<;/,956<;:209;: 6-;6>5;/,Archaeological 3;/6<./;/,9,0:,=0+,5*, 6-(3(9.,9,*6!64(5*0;@05 Museum+0:73(@:(9;0-(*;: ;/,9,.06546+,95"0;,G(+(;,: -964;/,"0;,G(+0:;90*;?/0)0;: Gourniá archaeological site -964;/, ;/*,5;<9@; 9(5.,-964,630;/0*;6!64(5 ;04,:(5+05*3<+,(5,?8<0:0;, -36<90:/,+<5+,9@A(5;05, (5+,(93@$,5,;0(59<3,)<;0;: 056(50=69@:;(;<,;;,256>5 -69;<5,:;662(+6>5;<9505 (:;/, ;/, ;/*,5;<9@(:(9,:<3;6- #/,9,(9,76;;,9@-05+:-964 18.5 km (11 miles) E of Agios ,(9;/8<(2,:(5+709(;,(;;(*2: (336=,9;/,9,.06505*3<+05.( Nikólaos, Lasíthi. Tue–Sun. %/,59,)<03+05.;66273(*, 3(9.,*633,*;0656-4(;,90(3

main public hols. Istro 8 km 05;/, :"0;,G(),.(5;6 -964'D296: (3(*, (5 miles) W. 796:7,965*,(.(05 Folk Museum #6+(@;/,796+<*;0656- #/,056(5:0;,6-6<950D Kapetán Sífi 33. Tel 28430 22861. >05,(5+630=,6030:04769 :;(5+:65(36>/0336=,9 May–Sep: Mon–Fri. main 366205.;/,;9(58<0309()F336< ;(5;;6;/,;6>5:,*6564@ public hols. ground floor. (5+;/,40+<.<:; "<3;(5( (@ ?*(=(;,+)@;/, 4,90*(5(9*/(,636.0:;(990,; ,:;0=(3*,3,)9(;,:0;::<**,:: Archaeological Museum Piskokefálou 3. Tel 28430 23917. (:(:<3;(5(,?769;,9 6@+(>,:),;>,,5 Tue–Sun. main public hols. (5+ 6<950D0:;/,),:; ;;/,*,5;9,6-"0;,G(:63+ 8<(9;,930,:(70*;<9,:8<, 79,:,9=,+056(5;6>505 9,;,40507(3(*,65,;,5;/ ;/,:0A,6-56:I:4(92:0;: *,5;9,:<996<5+,+)@(3()@ 905;/6-5(996>:;,77,+:;9,,;: (5+65,9664+>,3305.:#/, :0;,>(:05/()0;,+(:,(93@(: ;/,9+4033,550<4;/6<./ >/(;9,4(05:+(;,:-964;/, ",*65+ (3(*,7,906+(96<5+ -09, *(<:,+)@:,0:40*(*;0=0;@05 (96<5+ +,:;96@,+ ;/,:,;;3,4,5;(;6<950D

Environs

365.;/,(;065(30./>(@ 24 403,:>,:;6-6<950D (563+*65*9,;,96(+;<95:3,-; <7(:7,*;(*<3(924 403, *304);6Moní Faneroménis ,9,;/, ;/*,5;<9@*/(7,3 6-;/,Panagía/(:),,5)<03; 05;6(+,,7*(=,(5+0:;/, 9,76:0;69@-69:(*9,+(5+ :64,:(@409(*<36<:0*65: (:;(365.;/,(;065(3 0./>(@(3,-;;<9505.-964 "-D2(3,(+:+6>5;6;/, +,30./;-<3-0:/05.=033(.,6- Móchlos #/,:4(330:3(5+ 6-I*/36:65*,1605,+;6 ;/,4(053(5+)@(5(996> 0:;/4<:0:;/,:0;,6-(056(5 :,;;3,4,5;(5+*,4,;,9@

Siteía’s old quarter on the hillside overlooking the tree-lined harbour

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp317–20 and pp338–40

! #

16 km (10 miles) W of Siteía, Lasíthi. Tel 28430 61226. to Váï. Site & Museum daily. Itanos 7.5 km (4.5 miles) NE.

6<5+,+05;/, ;/*,5;<9@ 65G #6736J0:56>65,6- ;/,>,(3;/0,:;(5+46:;05-3< ,5;0(3465(:;,90,:059,;, #/,79,:,5;)<03+05.:+(;, -964$,5,;0(5;04,:>/,5;/, 465(:;,9@>(:-69;0-0,+(.(05:; 709(;,(;;(*2:#/, #<920:/ Zákros archaeological site, situated behind the hamlet of Káto Zákros 5(4,B#6736,9,;9(5:40;;,+ ;/696<./3@*644,9*0(30A,+ -964;/,465(:;,9@(5(*;-69 >0;/6=,9790*,+;(=,95(:(5+ >/0*/ ))6; "030.25D20:>(: ;/,*65:;(5;(990=(36-;6<9 Káto Zákros, Lasíthi. Tel 28430 ,?,*<;,+)@,94(5-69*,: )<:,:.9,(;*(9,0:;(2,5;6 93338. Tue–Sun. main 5,(9/(50D 796;,*;;/,7(34;9,,: public hols. Káto Zákros; #/9,,3,=,3:6-*,33:6=,93662 Xerókampos 13 km (8 miles) S. ;/,055,9*6<9;@(9+>/,9,( Environs :4(33 ;/*,5;<9@*/<9*/ 5;/,+,:63(;,3(5+:*(7, 24 5 9,;(5(9*/(,636.0:; *65;(05:-9,:*6,:(5+0*65: 403,569;/6-$DH;/,9<05: 02I3(6: 3D;65+0:*6=,9,+ #/,46:;-(46<:6-;/,:, ;/,<573<5+,9,+056(5 6-;/,(5*0,5;*0;@:;(;,6- 0:;/, Itanos:;(5+65(/033 7(3(*,6-'D296:#/,-6<9;/ 3(9.,:;6-;/,7(3(*,:0;>(: 0*65 ),;>,,5;>6 )<03;(96<5+ (5+ *6473,;,+05 :(5+@*6=,: +,:;96@,+05;/,0:3(5+>0+, )@;/, 056(5 +0:(:;,96- ;:0+,(3 (9;0:; 6D550: 9,*6 695D96:5 !64(5(5+ 36*(;0654(+,0;(*,5;9,6- ;9(+,>0;/;/,0++3,(:; ;/,-(E(+,6- @A(5;05, #/,;>6:;690,+7(3(*,>(: ;/,*/<9*/ 9,4(05: (99(5.,+(96<5+(*,5;9(3 (505:*907;065 /(=, 9,*69+:;/, ),,5,? *6<9;@(9+;/,,(:;:0+,6- >/0*/*65;(05,+;/,96@(3 9)0;9(;065 *(=(;,+ 6-(.5,:0(05 Lord, Thou Art Great ;/,:*(5;;9(*,:6- (7(9;4,5;: !,4(05:6-( icon by Ioánnis Kornáros, #/0:>(:(5 >/0*/*(5),:,,5 *63655(+,+*0:;,95/(33*(5:;033 Moní Toploú 69+,9;/(;:,;;3,+( ;6+(@05*3<+05.( ),:,,5(5+(:;65,305,+ >,3305>/0*/:64,7,9-,*;3@ +0:7<;,),;>,,5;/,90=(3*0;@ @A(5;05,)(:030*((5+;/, :;(;,:6-,9(7@;5(;6+(@: 9<05:6-:64,3(::0*(3;,473,: 79,:,9=,+@,(963+630=,: ,9D7,;9((5+;(56:6=,9;/, #/,(.90*<3;<9(3;6>56- >,9,-6<5+05 #/,4(05 /(33>692:/67:(5+:;69, *65;9636-;/,#,473,6-',<: Palaíkastro, 24403,: :6<;/6-$DH0:;/,*,5;9,6-(5 9664:(9,05;/,>,:;>05. 02;(06:(; (3(G2(:;96#/, 05:*907;065:;65,>(:<:,+ 05+:-964;/,7(3(*,05*3<+, ,?7(5+05.630=,)<:05,::; 690.05(33@(:(;64):;65,#/, ;/,:6<;/,5+6-/0I5(),(*/ (5,?8<0:0;,96*2*9@:;(31<. 465(:;,9@::4(334<:,<4

24 403,;6;/,,(:;;/, (5+5<4,96<:=(:,:56>05 /6<:,:,;*/05.:(5+ ;/;6 056(5:0;,6- (3(G2(:;960: ;/, 9D23,06 9*/(,636.0*(3 ;/*,5;<9@0*65: <:,<4 79,:,5;3@<5+,9,?*(=(;065

28 km (17 miles) NE of Siteía, Lasíthi.

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Váï Beach with its calm waters and native palms

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp320–21 and pp340–41

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Main entrance at Adrianoú, Monastiráki. Tel 210 321 0185. Thiseío, Monastiráki. Museum and site 8am–7pm Tue–Sun, noon–3pm Good Fri. main public hols. limited.

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The rooftop of the church of Agios Nikólaos Ragavás, Pláka

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See pp288–9.

Monastiráki. 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 10, 11, 12, 15, 18.

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The façade of the Hephaisteion in the Ancient Agora

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The Acropolis with the Temple of Olympian Zeus in the foreground

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STAR SIGHTS

Parthenon Porch of the Caryatids

Temple of Athena Nike

Pathway to Acropolis from ticket office

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp320–21 and pp340–41

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Dionysíou Areopagítou (main entrance), Pláka. Map 6 D2. Site Tel 210 321 0219. Museum Tel 210 323 6665. Acropolis. 230, 231. Site & Museum Apr–Oct: 8am–6:30pm daily, Nov–Mar: 8am–2:30pm daily. 1 Jan, 25 Mar, Easter Sun, 1 May, 25, 26 Dec. www.culture.gr

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Shrine of Asklepios Stoa of Eumenes

The Acropolis rock

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View of the Parthenon from the southwest at sunrise For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp320–21 and pp340–41

The Moschophoros (or CalfBearer) in the Acropolis Museum

Acropolis Museum

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Neof’ytou Doúka 4 (new wing at Irodótou 1), Kolonáki. Tel 210 722 8321. 3, 7, 8, 13. 10am–4pm Mon & Wed–Fri, 10am–3pm Sun. main public hols.

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Icon of the Adoration of the Magi from the Benáki Museum

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National Archaeological Museum

Plateía Omonoías

National Historical Museum

National Gallery of Art

Monastiráki

Plateía Syntágmatos

Bus A5

Bus 230 Trolleybus 1 Acropolis

Trolleybus 3

Trolleybus 7 Benáki Museum

Trolleybus 8 Trolleybus 9 Metro

Pláka

Museum of Cycladic Art

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Archaeological remains on display at Sýntagma metro station

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Yellow Athens taxi

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Kosmos Tel 18300.

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Visitors to Athens, walking up Areopagos Hill

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TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY 298321 WHERE TO EAT 322341 SHOPPING IN GREECE 342343 SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 344347 BEACHES AND WATERSPORTS 348349

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Hotel Alykí (see p312), with boats at the waterfront, on Sými Stení Valá Taverna on the island of Alónnisos

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RESTORED SETTLEMENTS AND BUILDINGS 685-8'33+/4/:/':+*(?:.+ ":.+8++1':/54'2 "5;8/9:,,/)+*;8/4-:.+ 9+4)5;8'-+*:.+ 8+9:58':/545,3'4?*+8+2/): +>'362+95,:8'*/:/54'2 '8)./:+):;8+,58;9+'9 -;+9:.5;9+958+8+)+4:2? -8'4:9'4*:'>(8+'19.'<+ +4)5;8'-+*:.+5=4+895, 3'4?,/4+52*(;/2*/4-9:5 )54<+8:358+5,:.+9+/4:5 '))5335*':/54!:'4*'8*9 85539/@+9'4*,')/2/:/+9<'8? =/*+2?*+6+4*/4-54:.+ )549:8'/4:95,68+9+8

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Volissos Traditional Apartments (see p307) at Volissós, Chíos

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YOUTH HOSTELS

Monastery of Agios Geórgios on Skýros (see pp116–17)

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Self-catering apartment on Santoríni

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Lakka Paxi Camping, on the Ionian Islands

Green Hotel (see p320) in Spíli, Crete

DISABLED TRAVELLERS ,)25+%1-6%7-21Tourism For All352(8')6%1-1*250%7-21 6,))72175%9)/%5281(5))') *25(-6%&/)(3)23/)7,)5 25+%1-=%7-2163529-(-1+86)*8/ -1*250%7-21%&287%'')6672 ,27)/6%1(3/%')62*-17)5)67-1 5))')-1'/8()SATH2'-)7< *257,)(9%1')0)172* 5%9)/ *257,)%1(-'%33)(%1( Door to Door%121/-1)75%9)/ +8-()1/<7,)/%5+)67%1( 026702()51,27)/6-15))') ,%9))9)17,)0267&%6-' *%'-/-7-)668',%6/-*76%1( :,))/',%-5%'')66-&/)72-/)76 *253)23/):-7,(-6%&-/-7-)61 7,),27)//-67-1+62*7,-6+8-() :),%9)-1(-'%7)(:,-',

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DIRECTORY CHAIN HOTELS

Tel 357 225 88007. www.louishotels.com

Aldemar Hotels

Mamidakis Hotels of Greece

262 Kifissiás Avenue, Kifissiá, 14562 Athens. Tel 210 623 6150. www.aldermarhotels.com

Astir Hotels www.astir-palace.com

Capsis Hotels 10 Parnonos St, Marousi, 15125 Athens. Tel 210 614 2083. www.capsis.gr

Grecotel Emanoúil Portalioú 23, 74100 Réthymno, Crete. Tel 28310 71002 (Crete). Tel 210 725 0920 (Athens).

Louis Hotels Louis House, 20 Amphipoleos St, 2025 Strovolos, Nicosia, Cyprus.

Panepistimíou 56, 10678 Athens. Tel 210 381 9781-6.

YOUTH HOSTELS IYHF (UK) 1st Floor, Fountain House, Parkway, Welwyn Garden City, Herts AL8 6JH. Tel 01707 324170.

IYHF (Greece) Víktoros Ougó 16, 10438 Athens. Tel 210 523 2049. [email protected]

MOUNTAIN REFUGES EOS (Ellinikós Orivatikós Sýndesmos)

(Greek Alpine Club) Filadelfías 126, 13671 Acharnés, Attica. Tel 210 246 1528.

Tourism For All

CAMPING

Tel 08451 249971.

c/o Vitalise, Sharp Road Industrial Estate, Kendal, Cumbria LA9 6NZ. www.tourismforall.

Greek Camping Association

org.uk

Sólonos 102, 10680 Athens. Tel 210 362 1560. www.panhelleniccamping-union.gr

FURTHER INFORMATION

DISABLED TRAVELLERS

Psýlla 6, 10557 Athens.

Greek Travel Pages Tel 210 324 7511. www.gtp.gr

Door to Door www.dptac.gov.uk/ door-to-door/

SATH 347 Fifth Avenue, Suite 610, New York, NY 10016. Tel 212 447 7284. www.sath.org

Hellenic Chamber of Hotels Stadiou 24, 10564 Athens. Tel 210 331 2535. [email protected]

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PRICE CATEGORIES Price categories are for a standard double room for one night in peak season, including tax, service charges and breakfast: under 50 euros 50–80 euros 80–120 euros 120–180 euros over 180 euros

THE IONIAN ISLANDS

CORFU Pink Palace

Agios Gordios, Sinaradhes, 49084 Tel 26610 53103 Fax 26610 53025 Rooms 20 A legend among fun-seeking budget travellers for more than 20 years, the Pink Palace is strictly for the young and uninhibited. On one of Corfu’s best sandy beaches, it has comfortable single, double, multi-occupancy and dormitory rooms and rates include breakfast and three course dinner. Closed Oct–Apr. www.thepinkpalace.com

CORFU Casa Lucia

Sgombou, 49083 Tel 26610 91419 Fax 26610 91732 Rooms 10 Located 3 km (2 miles) from the busy resort of Gouviá, English-owned Casa Lucia offers pretty, self-catering cottages set in well-kept gardens. Each cottage is simply furnished and has its own section of patio with table, chairs and sun umbrellas. Car recommended. www.casa-lucia-corfu.com

CORFU Cavalieri

Kapodistriou 4, 49100 Tel 26610 39336 Fax 26610 39238 Rooms 50 Striking 17th-century Venetian townhouse overlooking Corfu town’s main public green space, the Spianádha. Public rooms are decorated in Venetian style and furnished with antique and reproduction furniture. Guest rooms have high ceilings, some with balconies, but are a little on the small side. www.cavalieri.com

CORFU Fundana Villas

Palaiokastrítsa, 49083 Tel 26630 22532 Fax 26630 22453 Rooms 21 The old farm buildings of this complex have been converted into cottages and villas sleeping 2–7 people. The complex boasts a peaceful setting with fine views over woods and vineyards. Two pools, one large and one for toddlers. Access to Palaiokastrítsa beach, restaurants and shops is by car. www.fundanavillas.com

CORFU Akrotiri Beach

T Desylla 155, Palaiokastrítsa, 49100 Tel 26630 41237 Fax 26630 41277 Rooms 127 Largest and best of the hotels around popular Palaiokastrítsa. The hotel offers a plethora of facilities including 2 pools, restaurant, 3 bars, live entertainment, and watersports including scuba diving nearby. Comfortable, wellequipped rooms with balconies and some of Corfu’s best views. Closed Oct–Apr. www.akrotiri-beach.com

CORFU Bella Venezia

N. Zambeli 4, Corfu Town, 49100 Tel 26610 46500 Fax 26610 20707 Rooms 32 Close to the centre of Corfu town, this dignified Neo-Classical mansion has been restored and converted into a pleasant boutique hotel. High-ceilinged rooms are comfortable and tasteful without being extravagant. Hospitable, friendly staff. Public areas and some rooms are wheelchair-accessible. www.bellaveneziahotel.com

CORFU Louis Corcyra Beach

Gouviá, 49100 Tel 26610 90196 Fax 26610 91591 Rooms 260 Large, luxury resort complex near the lively resort of Gouviá. Accommodation includes rooms, studios, suites and bungalows in vast wooded grounds 8 km (5 miles) from Corfu town. The resort boasts five semi-private beaches, three pools and live entertainment. All-inclusive packages available. Closed Oct–Apr. www.louishotels.com

CORFU San Stefano

Seafront, Benítses, 49084 Tel 26610 71118 Fax 26610 71124 Rooms 250 Large, first class hotel at a bargain price. The low rates reflect the hotel’s location in less fashionable Benitses. All rooms have balconies with views and there is a good choice of activities including tennis and watersports. Studios, suites and bungalows as well as double or twin rooms. Closed Oct–Apr.

CORFU Corfu Palace

Dimoktratias 2, Corfu Town, 49100 Tel 26610 39485 Fax 26610 31749 Rooms 115 The “grande dame” of Corfu hotels, built in 1954 and still the best place to stay in Corfu town. The marble bathrooms, cheerfully decorated rooms and suites, and grand public areas lend a touch of class. The rooms at the front have fine sea views. Large pool with shaded terrace. www.corfupalace.com Key to Symbols see back cover flap

CORFU Grecotel Corfu Imperial

Kommeno, 49100 Tel 26610 88400 Fax 26610 91881 Rooms 320 One of the most luxurious resort hotel complexes on Corfu, offering bungalows, villas and suites as well as standard double rooms. The rooms here are more imaginatively furnished than most big resorts. Good choice of watersports and other activities and several bars and restaurants. Closed Oct–Apr. www.grecotel.gr

CORFU Pelecas Country Club

Pelekas, 49100 Tel 26610 52239 Fax 26610 52919 Rooms 10 Formal gardens surround this fabulous 19th-century manor, with luxurious suites and studios, all furnished with Venetian and Corfiot antiques. The club is favoured by some of the wealthiest people in Greece for its seclusion and attentive personal service. Excellent pool. Closed Nov–Apr. www.country-club.gr

CORFU Villa Regency

Between Perama and Gastouni, 8km from Corfu Town, 49084 Tel 26610 71212 Fax 26610 71219 Rooms 6 Six double rooms in three self-contained floors of this luxury villa – each apartment can be rented separately, or the house can be rented as a whole. The villa is set in extensive grounds, and facilities include a jacuzzi and daily maid service. Self-catering, but catering staff available on request. Internet access. www.louishotels.com

CORFU Divani Palace

Nafsiká 20, Corfu Town, 49100 Tel 26610 38996 Fax 26610 35929 Rooms 162 Probably the most expensive hotel in Corfu, but with a range of facilities and services that justify the high price, including a choice of restaurants, health and beauty facilities, and attentive staff. Standing on a wooded hillside overlooking the lagoon of Kanóni, 3km (2 miles) outside Corfu Town. Closed Oct–Apr. www.divanis.gr

ITHAKI Mentor

Paralía, Vathý, 28300 Tel 26740 33033 Fax 26740 32293 Rooms 36 Small, family run hotel with fine harbour views from some rooms. Services include a café-bar with a terrace overlooking the harbour, and an internet corner. Rooms are clean and comfortable and the service good. No restaurant, but there are plenty to choose from in nearby Vathý. There is a sandy beach 800 metres (2,600 ft) away. www.hotelmentor.gr

ITHAKI Perantzada 1811

Odissea Androutsou, Vathý, 28300 Tel 26740 23914 Fax 26740 33493 Rooms 12 Neo-Classical with a 21st century twist, this stylish small hotel is located on the harbour front. The 19th-century façade disguises a pop-art interior, with rooms painted white and brightened by vivid striped fabrics in bright greens, blues, pink and orange. Renowned for its designer chic. Great food and service. www.arthotel.gr

KEFALLONIA Linardos

Asos, 28085 Tel 26740 51563 Fax 26740 51563 Rooms 12 Located in the centre of the pretty village of Asos, Linardos offers rooms with fine views across the bay to the ruins of the Venetian castle. A choice of doubles, triples, twins and family rooms, each with a well-equipped mini-kitchen. Hire a motor boat at the harbour to explore the nearby coast. Closed Oct–May. www.linardosapartments.gr

KEFALLONIA Olga

Antoni Tritsi 82, Argostóli, 28100 Tel 26710 24981 Fax 26710 24985 Rooms 43 A small, modern hotel in the centre of Argostóli with a mix of double, twin and family rooms, each with its own balcony. All have fridges, phones and en-suite shower and WC. Well priced for those who want to stay in the centre of Argostóli. The beach, however, is 3 km (2 miles) from the hotel. www.olgahotel.gr

KEFALLONIA Louis Apostolata

Skála, 28082 Tel 26710 83581 Fax 26710 83583 Rooms 73 Set on a hillside 3 km (2 miles) from Skála village, this is the first luxury all-inclusive resort hotel on Kefallonia. Rooms are stylish and comfortable with panoramic sea or mountain views. Buffet meals, snacks, local drinks and entertainment are all included in the rate. Excellent facilities. Closed Oct–Apr. www.louishotels.com

KEFALLONIA Emelisse Art Hotel

Eblisi, Fiskárdo, 28084 Tel 26740 41200 Fax 26740 41026 Rooms 65 Fourteen traditional-style stone houses with stylish rooms boasting four-poster beds and private terraces. Facilities include a poolside bar and restaurant, breakfast terrace, tennis court, gym and billiards. Mountain bikes are also available for guests to use. Good views over bay area. Closed Oct–Apr. www.arthotel.gr

LEFKADA Ostria

Agios Nikítas, 31100 Tel 26450 97483 Fax 26450 97300 Rooms 12 This small hotel, 12 km (7 miles) from Lefkáda town, is well priced and attractively located. Rooms are decorated with traditional-style furniture. The beach is in nearby Agios Nikítas where you will also find a good choice of restaurants and cafés.

LEFKADA Agios Nikitas

Agios Nikítas, 31100 Tel 26450 97460 Fax 26450 97462 Rooms 36 This attractive small hotel comprises 28 twin and double rooms and eight suites, all with large balconies. The rooms occupy three traditional-style buildings that overlook the beach and harbour at Agios Nikítas, just 150 metres (490 ft) away. Pleasant gardens and sea views from most rooms. Closed Nov–Apr. www.hotelagiosnikitas.gr

LEFKADA Porto Fico

Vasilikí, 31100 Tel 26450 31402 Fax 26450 31467 Rooms 20 This is the best hotel in the pretty, peaceful village of Vasilikí, 38 km (24 miles) from Lefkáda town. All rooms have balconies with sea or mountain views. Pondi beach, a long sweep of sand and white pebbles, is only 60 metres (1,968 ft) from the hotel. Two pools including separate children’s pool. Closed Oct–Apr. www.portoficohotel.com

MEGANISI Porto Vathi Studios

Vathý, Meganísi, 31083 Tel 26450 51622 Rooms 15 Located on the tiny island of Meganísi, a few minutes across the water from Lefkáda, Vathý Studios offers basic self-catering accommodation decorated in typical island style – white walls, blue woodwork, pine ceilings. Pretty views, plenty of peace and quiet. Closed Oct–May. [email protected]

PAXOS Paxos Beach Hotel

Gáïos, 49082 Tel 26620 32211 Fax 26620 32695 Rooms 42 Popular, family-run hotel offering well-appointed, simply decorated, comfortable rooms with sea and mountain views. Facilities include a private beach, tennis court and wind-surfing equipment. There is also a jetty where you can rent a motor boat to explore the island. Closed Nov–Apr. www.paxosbeachhotel.gr

PAXOS Paxos Club

Gáïos, 49082 Tel 26620 32451 Fax 26620 32097 Rooms 26 This comfortable, family-run hotel comprises 26 purpose-built studios and two-room apartments sleeping up to five people. Each has its own veranda or balcony overlooking the gardens or large pool. Rooms are clean with well-equipped mini-kitchens. Closed Oct–Apr. www.paxosclub.gr

ZAKYNTHOS Tsivouli Park

Lithákia, 29100 Tel 26950 55018 Rooms 7 Surrounded by unspoilt farmland, Tsivouli Park offers whitewashed rooms with iron beds and balconies in traditionalstyle stone cottages. The owners keep their own livestock here and grow fruit and vegetables. Full board is reasonably priced and is by prior arrangement. Pretty beach within easy walking distance.

ZAKYNTHOS Leedas Village

Lithákia, Agios Sóstis, 29092 Tel 26950 51305 Fax 26950 53491 Rooms 20 Self-catering apartments for 2–9 people in 5 attractive stone villas, all with terraces. Apartments are plain and cool, with terracotta paved floors and fully equipped kitchens. The villas are set in pretty, flower-filled gardens and are a short walk from the beach. Children’s playground. Closed Nov–Apr. www.leedas-village.com

ZAKYNTHOS Villa Tzogia

Kambí, 29100 Tel 26950 92275 Fax 26950 94060 Rooms 4 Located on the outskirts of a small village, on the unspoilt west side of the island, Villa Tzogia comprises a villa and apartments sleeping 2–4 people. Set in lush gardens with views over rolling hills and vineyards. Shared pool and a couple of tavernas nearby. Closed Oct–Apr. www.tzogia.gr

ZAKYNTHOS Paliokaliva Village

Tragaki, 29100 Tel 26950 63770 Fax 26950 65144 Rooms 10 Rooms in ten stone cottages set around a pool and among olive trees. Each villa has its own terrace and is furnished with wrought-iron beds and simple wooden furniture. All have basic self-catering facilities, but there is also a good bar-restaurant that serves lunch and dinner. Sandy beach less than 2 km (1 mile) away. www.paliokaliva.gr

THE ARGO-SARONIC ISLANDS

AIGINA Pension Rena

Agía Iríni, Aígina Town, 18910 Tel 22970 24760 Fax 22970 24244 Rooms 8 Quirky, friendly and affordable, Pension Rena has a loyal following. The rooms are plain but attractive, light and airy – book early for those on the second floor which have balconies and views over the Gulf. There are also several restaurants and a beach nearby. www.pensionrena.gr

AIGINA Aeginitikou Archontiko

Ag. Nikólaou and Thomaidou 1, 18910 Tel 22970 24968 Fax 22970 26716 Rooms 10 Built in the early 19th century, this delightful island mansion has played host to Orthodox saints, sea-captains, poets and musicians. Superbly restored, it boasts marvelous painted ceilings, stained-glass windows, flagstoned floors and two tranquil interior courtyards. Closed Nov–Mar.

AIGINA Nafsiká

N Kazantzaki 55, Aígina Town, 18910 Tel 22970 22333 Fax 22970 22477 Rooms 36 The Nafsiká is a village-style resort with comfortable rooms, some with views of the Gulf and the ruins of the Temple of Apollo. The hotel boasts lushly-filled courtyards and a large pool. It is only 50m (164 ft) from the island’s best beach. Closed Nov–Mar. www.hotelnafsika.com Key to Price Guide see p302 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

KYTHIRA Kamares Apartments

Aroniadika, 80200 Tel 27360 33420 Fax 27360 34124 Rooms 7 This sturdy stone building with its blue-painted shutters and arched ceilings looks out over a plateau of vineyards and terraced fields. Apartments have basic kitchenettes with fridge and two-ring cooker. A Greek buffet breakfast is served in the courtyard. Beaches are a 20–30-minute walk away. Closed Nov–Mar. www.kamareshotel.gr

KYTHIRA Margarita

Chóra, 80100 Tel 27360 31711 Fax 27360 31325 Rooms 11 Located on the outskirts of Kýthira’s beautiful main village with dazzling views of the sea, Margarita has whitewashed walls and blue wooden shutters. Bedrooms are bright and modern with plain furniture, and there is a sunny flagstoned terrace. Beaches are 1.5 km (1 mile) below the village. www.hotel-margarita.com

KYTHIRA Nostos Inn

Chóra, 80100 Tel 27360 31056 Fax 27360 31834 Rooms 6 In the heart of one of the Aegean’s most beautiful villages, Nostos is an inn in the proper sense, with a cheery barcafé on the ground floor and spotless rooms on the upper floor. Some rooms look out over the village to the sea, all have high ceilings, polished wood floors and modern amenities. Closed Oct–Mar. www.nostos-kythera.gr

KYTHIRA Vasilis Bungalows

Chóra, 80100 Tel 27360 31125 Fax 27360 31553 Rooms 12 Twelve bungalows, some with self-catering facilities, set among olive trees just outside the harbour village of Kapsáli. White walls, painted woodwork, stylish bedrooms and spacious breakfast room. Several bars and restaurants in nearby Kapsáli. Closed Nov–Mar. www.kythirabungalowsvasili.gr

POROS Sto Roloi

Póros, 18020 Tel 22980 25808 Rooms 5 Typical island house divided into three well-equipped self-catering apartments sleeping 2–7 people. Accommodation can be rented separately, in combination, or as a whole house. The separate Anemone House, close to the main building, has its own swimming pool. Plenty of bars and restaurants nearby. www.storoloi-poros.gr

SPETSES Possidonion

Ntapia, outskirts of Spétses Town, 18050 Tel 22980 72908 Fax 22980 72208 Rooms 55 Faded 19th-century grandeur is the keynote of this old hotel – the first to be built on Spétses. Rooms are spacious, with high windows and balconies, but insist on a sea-facing room as the view across to the Argolid peninsula is the main reason for staying here. Five minutes walk from town. Closed Nov–Mar.

SPETSES Orloff

Yiali, Spetses, 18050 Tel 22980 75444 Fax 22980 74470 Rooms 20 Named for an 18th-century Russian adventurer and would-be liberator of Greece, this is a welcome addition to the Spétses hotel scene. Super pool within high stone walls, a mix of twin and double rooms, self-catering studios, suites and a separate villa that sleeps up to 10 people. Stylishly decorated rooms. Closed Dec–Mar. www.orloffresort.com

SPETSES Economou Mansion

Kounoupitsa, Spétses Town, 18050 Tel 22980 73400 Fax 22980 74074 Rooms 8 Wonderful, family run luxury guesthouse within a dynastic mansion. Large rooms with beamed ceilings, marble floors and soft-coloured rugs. The two suites also have kitchenettes and sea-view balconies. Breakfast is served on the terrace. About 10 minutes’ walk from Spétses Town. Closed Nov–Mar.

SPETSES Zoe’s Club

Spétses Town, 18050 Tel 22980 74447 Fax 22980 72841 Rooms 23 Delightful, modern complex of 11 studios, 8 suites and 4 maisonettes surrounding a large pool on the outskirts of Spétses Town. Prettily designed, well managed, and in a quiet location but within easy distance of the harbour area with its tavernas, bars and cafes. Excellent base for a long family holiday. Closed Oct–Apr. www.zoesclub.gr

YDRA Delfini

Harbour, Ydra Town, 18040 Tel 22980 52082 Fax 22980 53828 Rooms 11 The cheapest spot for a short stay in Ydra, and only a few steps from the ferry quay. Rooms are clean and basic, some have en-suite WC and shower. A couple of rooms look out over the harbour, but are exposed to a lot of early morning noise as boats and hydrofoils arrive outside. Closed Oct–Apr.

YDRA Hydra

Ydra Town, 18040 Tel 22980 52102 Fax 22980 53085 Rooms 18 Affordable, at least by Ydra standards, and good value. Rooms with harbour views, carpeted floors and modern amenities including TV and air conditioning. Friendly English-speaking management, and a location high above the daytime noise and bustle of the harbour.

YDRA Nefeli

Tsamadoú 8-14, Ydra Town, 18040 Tel 22980 53297 Fax 22980 53297 Rooms 9 This tiny hotel is perched above Ydra’s pretty harbour. All rooms have good views and are set above three little courtyard terraces where breakfast is served. As the climb up from the harbour is steep, it is not suitable for small children or people with disabilities, but it is a pleasant place for a short stay. Closed Nov–Feb.

YDRA Leto

Chóra, Ydra, 18040 Tel 22980 53385 Fax 22980 53806 Rooms 27 Argo-Saronic grandeur is the keynote of this boutique hotel housed in an old Ydriot mansion. Antiques grace public areas and bedrooms, the best of which look out onto the paved courtyard. One of very few island hotels to offer dedicated accommodation for wheelchair users and their partners. Closed Nov–Mar. www.letohydra.gr

YDRA Orloff

Ydra Town, 18040 Tel 22980 52564 Fax 22980 53532 Rooms 9 One of the very first comfortable hotels on Ydra, the Orloff is named after an 18th-century Russian adventurer and combines style with authenticity – rooms and public areas have antique furniture, lamps and mirrors as well as modern amenities. Located on a quiet square, with its own pretty courtyard. Closed Nov–Mar. www.orloff.gr

YDRA Angelica

Ydra town, 18040 Tel 22980 53202 Fax 22980 53264 Rooms 14 Traditional Ydriot house which has been sensitively transformed into a stylish small hotel. The rooms have stone walls, beamed ceilings, wood or marble floors and some have balconies that look out over Ydra Town and the harbour. Well managed, quiet and with plenty of places to eat and drink nearby. www.angelica.gr

YDRA Bratsera

Chóra, Ydra, 18040 Tel 22980 53971 Fax 22980 53626 Rooms 28 Compared with boutique hotels elsewhere, the Bratsera is amazingly affordable and boasts a big pool, breezy public areas and excellent restaurant. The individually decorated rooms have polished wood floors, tall windows and antique furnishings. It is worth visiting Ydra just to stay here. Closed Nov–Mar. www.bratserahotel.com

YDRA Xelidonia

Chóra, Ydra, 18040 Tel 00 32 234 75814 Fax 00 32 234 36880 Rooms 3 Superb self-catering apartment-mansion sleeping up to six people in three bedrooms, high above Ydra’s scenic harbour. Rooms have iron four-poster beds, white linen and wood or tiled floors. The terrace boasts unbeatable views over Ydra Town and harbour. Closed Nov–Feb. www.xelidonia.com

THE SPORADES AND EVVOIA

ALONISSOS Haravgi

Patitíri, 37005 Tel 24240 65090 Fax 24240 65189 Rooms 18 Alónnisos has a limited range of accommodation and the Haravgi is a no-frills hotel offering simple but clean rooms, all with balconies. Acceptable for a short stay for those planning on island hopping around the Sporades, but not the best choice for a stay of more than a few days. Closed Nov–Mar.

ALONISSOS Konstantintas Studios

2 km from Patitíri, 37005 Tel 24240 66165 Fax 24240 66165 Rooms 9 Traditionally-designed studios and rooms in the old village of Alónissos, but with modern facilities including en-suite shower and WC, fridge and basic kitchen amenities. Good value for money and an excellent base for exploring the island or for a short island-hopping stopover. Closed Nov–Mar. www.konstantinasstudios.gr

EVVOIA Béis

Kými Beach, 34003 Tel 22220 22604 Fax 22220 29113 Rooms 38 This comfortable hotel has rooms with good views of the port. All rooms have en-suite shower and WC and there is an excellent restaurant serving freshly-caught fish. The hotel is located close to the beach and offers watersports facilities. Wheelchair accessible.

EVVOIA Apollon

Kárystos Bay, 34001 Tel 22240 22045 Fax 22240 22049 Rooms 36 Situated on the edge of a lush bay, this modern hotel offers suites sleeping up to five people. Rooms have en-suite shower and WC and overlook the sea. There is also a terrace with views and a lovely garden. Facilities include a restaurant and watersports. Close to beach. Closed Nov–Mar.

EVVOIA Candíli

1 km (0.5 miles) from seafront, Prokópi, 34004 Tel 69740 62100 Rooms 12 Set in a splendid estate, Candíli is a hotel and seminar centre offering creative courses in mosaics and painting. The estate comprises a manor house (suitable for families), two cottages and charming bedrooms in converted granaries and stables. Well-equipped art studio, dining and games room. A landrover is available for use. www.candili.co.uk

SKIATHOS Atrium

Paralía Platanias, Agía Paraskeví, 73002 Tel 24270 49345 Fax 24270 49444 Rooms 75 Large, well-appointed modern hotel on a pine-covered hillside, 150 metres (492 ft) above the sandy beach at Paralías. Built with a package-tour clientele in mind, it has a large pool and excellent choice of watersports. Some distance from the restaurants and nightlife of Skiáthos Town. Closed Nov–Apr. www.atriumhotel.gr Key to Price Guide see p302 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

SKIATHOS Esperides

Achládia, 73002 Tel 24270 22535 Fax 24270 21580 Rooms 181 Huge resort hotel overlooking a sandy beach, with excellent facilities including tennis courts. The rooms are spacious and those in front have fine views. The Esperides is a full-service hotel with a wide choice of restaurants and bars. Closed Nov–Apr. www.esperidesbeach.gr

SKIATHOS Palace

Koukounariés Beach, 37002 Tel 24270 49700 Fax 24270 49666 Rooms 2 Situated on a white sandy beach backed by pine trees, this resort-style hotel enjoys fantastic sea views. All rooms have ensuite bathroom and WC, satellite TV, direct dial phone, a fridge and balcony or terrace. Site facilities include a gift shop, mini-market, indoor and outdoor bars, tennis courts and sauna. Closed Nov–Mar.

SKIATHOS Aegean Suites

Fteliá, 73002 Tel 24270 24068 Fax 24270 24070 Rooms 20 A stylish, purpose-built hotel enjoying views out to sea and over a large pool. The price reflects the attentive service and state-of-the-art facilities. This hotel is more geared towards romantic couples than those on family holidays. Closed Nov–Apr. www.aegeansuites.com

SKOPELOS Aegeon

Skópelos Town, 37003 Tel 24240 22619 Fax 24240 22194 Rooms 15 Small, cheerful and affordable hotel with bright rooms, all with balconies overlooking Skópelos Town and its bay. The rooms, all in a three-storey building in mock-traditional style, are simple but bright and clean, with en-suite shower and WC. Below the hotel is a terraced garden and a children’s play area. Closed Oct–Apr.

SKOPELOS Pleoussa Studios

Ambeliki, 37003 Tel 24240 23141 Fax 24240 23844 Rooms 10 A small complex of ten pretty, self-catering studios, painted in ochre and cream and built around an arcaded courtyard which is paved in typical Skopelos fashion. Upper-floor rooms have attractive wooden balconies with views of the sea. 50 metres (164 ft) from a pebbly beach. Closed Oct–Apr. www.pleoussa-skopelos.gr

SKOPELOS Zanetta

Skópelos Town, 37003 Tel 24240 22859 Fax 24240 23556 Rooms 55 Medium-sized complex of self-catering studios and apartments designed in mock-traditional style and laid out around a large pool. The Zanetta offers good facilities for families and enjoys an attractive location. Reasonably priced. Closed Oct–Apr. www.zanetahotel.gr

SKYROS Nefeli

Plagia, Skýros Town, 34007 Tel 22220 91964 Fax 22220 92061 Rooms 22 A well designed and serviced hotel, with double or twin-bedded rooms, two suites and four self-catering studio apartments laid out in low-rise buildings around an attractive pool. Not far from the island’s unspoilt main town, which has plenty of restaurants, and within walking distance of the beach. www.skyros-nefeli.gr

THE NORTHEAST AEGEAN ISLANDS CHIOS Marko’s Place

Karfás, 82100 Tel 22710 31990 Fax 22710 31990 Rooms 14 Plain and whitewashed rooms in little stone cottages, with twin or small double beds, with four shared shower rooms and WCs. Outside, a shaded terrace has views of the sea, and Karfas beach is just a short walk away. Basic accommodation in a peaceful setting. Closed Nov–Apr. www.markos-place.com

CHIOS Plaka Studios

Karfás, 82100 Tel 22710 32955 Fax 22710 32966 Rooms 10 Small, well-appointed studios with self-catering facilities and balconies with sea views. All rooms have TV, kitchenette with fridge and small cooker and there is a small breakfast bar. Next to Karfas beach, the island’s best beach. Well-priced, especially by Chiot standards.

CHIOS Aeriko

Karfas, 82100 Tel 22710 32336 Fax 22710 32335 Rooms 6 Within walking distance of a pebbly beach at Karfas, this small pension stands among olive groves. Traditional buildings around a pleasant pool where breakfast is served at iron tables under shady trees. Family run and friendly, Aeriko is a good base from which to explore the island or just laze. Closed Nov–Mar. www.benovias.gr

CHIOS Volissos Traditional Apartments

Volissós, 82100 Tel 22740 21421 Fax 22740 21522 Rooms 24 Designer and sculptor Stella Tsakiri has lovingly restored these old-fashioned cottages. All have self-catering facilities, larger cottages have two bedrooms, some with views of the sea or surrounding countryside. Inside are exposed beams and stonework, whitewashed walls, platform beds and traditional fabrics. Closed Nov–Mar. www.volissostravel.gr

CHIOS Perleas Mansion

Odos Vitiadou, Kámbos, 82100 Tel 22710 32217 Fax 22710 32364 Rooms 7 Large rooms with iron beds, polished wood floors and spotless linen in the stone buildings of a former farm, hidden away in the Chiot countryside among olive trees. There are lovely, pine-shaded terraces and a lily pond which was formerly the farmhouse reservoir. www.perleas.gr

CHIOS Argentikon

Odos Argenti, Kámbos, 82100 Tel 22710 33111 Fax 22710 31645 Rooms 8 One of the most lavishly luxurious places to stay in the Greek islands. No expense has been spared in this former mansion of a dynasty of Chiot-Genoese aristocrats. Fine dining, a pool in a stone-walled courtyard, and opulent surroundings make a stay here an experience to savour. www.argentikon.gr

CHIOS Ta Petrina

Volissós, 82103 Tel 22740 21128 Fax 22740 21013 Rooms 18 This collection of stone houses stands above the hillside village of Volissós in the midst of island farmland, olive groves and vineyards. Family run, with rooms in a mini-village of six cottages available separately, in combination or as a whole. A charming mix of old and new, with modern kitchen facilities. Closed Dec–Mar. www.tapetrina.gr

IKARIA Cavos Bay

Armenistís, 83301 Tel 22750 71381 Fax 22750 71380 Rooms 63 A good value hotel with modern facilities, a large pool and world class views. Rooms have satellite TV and balconies with views; only the studios have air conditioning. Located on the outskirts of the village and about 10 minutes’ walk from an excellent sandy beach. Closed Nov–Apr. www.cavosbay.com.gr

IKARIA Erofili Beach

Armenistís, 83301 Tel 22750 71058 Fax 22750 71483 Rooms 31 Unpretentious small hotel with a great location above a huge sweep of white sandy beach. All rooms have balconies with good views. The hotel sits on the outskirts of the village where there are plenty of cafés, bars and restaurants. Can be a little noisy at night in high season. Closed Oct–Apr.

IKARIA Messakti Village

Gialiskari, 83301 Tel 22750 71331 Fax 22750 71330 Rooms 60 This is a modern hotel next to a fabulous sandy beach. The interior boasts exposed stonework, flagstoned floors, wooden beams and sleeping galleries. A mix of large studio rooms and apartments, with two suites built into an old stone tower. Shared WC and bathrooms. Closed Nov–Apr. www.mesakti-village.com

LESVOS Nassos Guest House

Mólyvos, 81108 Tel 22530 71432 Rooms 7 This guesthouse is located in the centre of Mólyvos, one of the nicest villages on Lésvos. The simple pretty rooms are decorated in pastel colours. The best rooms are those with views over the village roofs to the sea. One large double has en-suite WC and shower. www.nassosguesthouse.com

LESVOS Olive Press

Mólyvos Beach, 81108 Tel 22530 71205 Fax 22530 71647 Rooms 41 Charming hotel converted from an old olive press with rooms and self-catering studios around a grassy, shady courtyard. Located next to a clean, pebbly beach and close to the many restaurants and bars of Mólyvos. Some rooms have balconies overhanging the beach. Closed Nov–Mar. www.olivepress-hotel.com

LESVOS Vaterá Beach

Vaterá Beach, 81300 Tel 22520 61212 Fax 22520 61164 Rooms 24 A modern, medium sized family-run establishment located on an excellent beach. The comfortable rooms are light and breezy with tall windows and pine furniture. There are some family rooms and some with self-catering facilities. Good restaurant. Internet access. Closed Nov–Apr.

LESVOS Clara

Avláki, Pétra, 81109 Tel 22530 41532 Fax 22530 41535 Rooms 42 Not far from Pétra’s long sweep of beach and lively village, the Clara is a medium-sized resort with a wide range of facilities including tennis courts and pool. Rooms are plain but well-equipped and all have balconies with views of the sea and of Mólyvos. A comfortable place for a longer stay. Closed Oct–Mar.

LESVOS Loriet

Vareiá Beach, 81100 Tel 22510 43111 Fax 22510 41629 Rooms 35 A luxurious, stylish hotel located 2 kms (1 mile) from Mytilíni Town. The hotel is housed in a restored 19th-century mansion where there are seven luxury suites. Additional rooms and studio apartments occupy recently added wings. 24-hour room service, two restaurants and a poolside cocktail bar. www.loriet-hotel.com

LIMNOS Villa Afroditi

Platí Beach, Platí, 81400 Tel 22540 23141 Fax 22540 25031 Rooms 12 A small, well-run hotel offering clean, simple rooms at affordable prices. There are two suites and three apartments as well as twin rooms available but booking well ahead is essential. The attached restaurant is popular and facilities are good. Close to beach. Closed Nov–Apr. Key to Price Guide see p302 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

LIMNOS Akti Myrina Venta Club

Akti Myrina, 81400 Tel 22540 22681 Fax 22540 22947 Rooms 125 Formerly owned by a Greek shipping magnate, this luxury village-style resort is now part of a group of Italian-owned all-inclusive resorts. On offer is a wide range of land and water sports including tennis, waterskiing and parascending. There is also live entertainment daily and activities for children. Closed Nov–Apr. www.ventaglio.com

SAMOS Kalidon

Kokkári, 83100 Tel 22730 92605 Fax 22730 92608 Rooms 28 An attractive, small hotel offering well-designed rooms and friendly service. The owners also run the slightly larger and pricier Kalidon Palace nearby and the facilities there are open to guests of the Kalidon. Good value and a good base for exploring the rest of Sámos. Closed Nov–Apr. www.kalidon.gr

SAMOS Kerkis Bay

Ormos Marathokampos, 83102 Tel 22730 37202 Fax 22730 37372 Rooms 29 Located in the heart of a pleasantly relaxed harbour village and housed in an attractive, traditional-style building. The well-appointed rooms offer all modern comforts and there is an attractive leafy courtyard. Sun loungers and umbrellas on the pebbly beach a few steps away and excellent watersports nearby. Closed Nov–Mar.

SAMOS Olympia Beach

Kokkári Beach, 83100 Tel 22730 92420 Fax 22730 92457 Rooms 12 This charming, small hotel is built in traditional style and offers light and airy rooms, some with sea views. Located right on Kokkari’s clean, pebbly beach. An excellent base for a range of activities including climbing, mountain biking, sea kayaking, diving and windsurfing. Closed Oct–Apr. www.olympia-hotels.gr

SAMOS Arion

Kokkári, 83100 Tel 22730 92020 Fax 22730 92006 Rooms 108 Large but well-designed, low-rise resort hotel located on a tree-covered hillside on the outskirts of one of the island’s prettiest resort villages. Buffet restaurant, bars and good facilities for families. There are white pebble beaches nearby and plenty of restaurants and nightlife to choose from. Free shuttle service. Closed Oct–Apr. www.arion-hotel.gr

SAMOTHRAKI Kastro

Palaiópolis, 68002 Tel 25510 89400 Fax 25510 41000 Rooms 50 This modern, well-managed hotel is designed to fit in with the local architecture. It has a large pool and good range of facilities and is one of the few international-standard hotels on Samothraki, which suffers from a shortage of fullservice accommodation. Closed Oct–Apr. www.kastrohotel.gr

THASOS Arsinoe Cottages

Limenaria, 64002 Tel 25930 52796 Fax 25930 52295 Rooms 7 Beautiful stone cottages surrounded by lush greenery on a slope above a sandy beach. Accommodation is in five cottages – the smaller ones sleep two, the larger houses up to four. Inside are whitewashed walls, stone fireplaces, cast-iron beds, tiled floors and simple pine furniture. Shared kitchen. Closed Oct–Apr.

THASOS Alexandra Beach

Potós beach, 64004 Tel 25930 52391 Fax 25930 51185 Rooms 124 Large resort hotel on the beach at Potós, near Limenária, with accommodation in bungalows and twin and double rooms. Among the facilities are a restaurant, three bars and an array of sports, health and fitness activities including tennis, volleyball, windsurfing and waterskiing. Closed Nov–Apr.

THASOS Miramare

Skála Potamiás, 64004 Tel 25930 61040 Fax 25930 61043 Rooms 30 A modern, well-equipped hotel with a great location among pine woods at the southern end of Chryssí Ammoudiá, the most spectacular sandy beach on the island. Comfortable, reasonably-priced rooms, and a good place for a family holiday. Closed Oct–Apr. www.hotelmiramare.gr

THE DODECANESE ASTYPALAIA Australia Studios

Péra Gialós, 85900 Tel 22430 61275 Fax 22430 61067 Rooms 15 Modern, open-plan hotel with a choice of rooms sleeping 2–3, and self-catering studios sleeping up to 4. Balconies have sea views and there is a tree-shaded garden. Below the hotel is a restaurant offering fresh fish and meat grills. The beach is 50 metres (164 ft) away. Closed Nov–Apr.

CHALKI Argyrenia

Nimporió, 85101 Tel 22460 45205 Fax Rooms 8 Located midway between Nimporió and Potamós beach is this small, unassuming, pension-style guesthouse with simply furnished chalet-style rooms. Most rooms have terraces and there is a lovely, leafy garden. Numerous bars and restaurants within easy walking distance. Good value. Closed Oct–Apr.

CHALKI Captain’s House

Nimporió, 85110 Tel 22460 45201 Fax 22460 45201 Rooms 3 This tiny guesthouse has just one double and two twin-bedded rooms and is much in demand. Housed in an old-fashioned villa with red-tiled roof and large, simple rooms surrounding a shaded terrace-garden. There is a small sunbathing terrace. Rooms have fridges. Closed Oct-Apr.

CHALKI Villa Praxithea

Nimporió, 85110 Tel 22410 70172 Fax 22410 70175 Rooms 6 These two self-catering apartments sleep up to eight people and occupy an attractive seaside villa on the outskirts of Chálki’s main village. Floors are traditional tile or wood, rooms are painted in pale pastel colours and there is a small terrace for sunbathing. The upper rooms have harbour views. Closed Oct–Apr. www.villapraxithea.com

KALYMNOS Galini

Póthia, 85200 Tel 22430 31241 Fax 22430 31100 Rooms 14 This family-run pension has better than average facilities and overlooks Vathý Bay and the boatyard. Rooms are simple but comfortable and are good value for money. There is a pleasant terrace where breakfast is served and a restaurant for snacks and light meals. Closed Oct–Apr.

KALYMNOS Panorama

Póthia, 85200 Tel 22430 23138 Fax 22430 23138 Rooms 13 Set back from the bustling seafront at Póthia, the Panorama lives up to its name with great views of the bay. Bedrooms are comfortable, modern and simply furnished and most have balconies. The hotel has a small bar and breakfast restaurant and there are many tavernas and cafés nearby. Closed Oct–Apr.

KARPATHOS Amoopi Bay

Amoopí, 85700 Tel 22450 81184 Fax 22450 81105 Rooms 65 A well-appointed but unassuming small hotel offering reasonably-priced accommodation. All rooms have a balcony or terrace, phone and satellite TV, and the hotel has its own garden restaurant (rates including dinner are negotiable). 300 metres (984 ft) from sandy Amoopí beach. Closed Nov–Apr. www.alpatravel.com/karpathos/amoopi

KASTELLORIZO Karnayo

Kastellórizo Town, 85111 Tel 22460 70626 Fax 22460 49266 Rooms 8 The most stylish and attractive place to stay on Kastellórizo, this lovingly-restored traditional building has four rooms, some with wooden balconies, and four self-catering apartments. Set on a cobbled square with palm trees and bougainvillea. A bathing ladder gives access to the harbour.

KASTELLORIZO Mediterraneo

25 Martiou, Megísti, 85111 Tel 22460 49007 Fax 22460 49007 Rooms 9 One of the prettiest hotels in the Dodecanese, with colourful bedrooms in shades of blue and terracotta and a superb, huge suite on the ground floor. A bathing ladder gives access to clear blue water literally on the doorstep. Rooftop terrace serving breakfast and, on request, dinner. Fine views across the beautiful bay. www.medterraneopension.org

KOS Afendoulis

Evripidou 1, Kos Town, 85300 Tel 22420 25321 Fax 22420 25797 Rooms 23 A small, family hotel in the centre of Kos town with friendly, English-speaking management and comfortable, simple rooms. Fairly quiet (by Kos Town standards) and a short walk from the good town beach. Breakfast and drinks are served in a lovely garden filled with jasmine and bougainvillea. Closed Nov–Apr.

KOS Karavia Beach

Aginaropi, Marmári, 85300 Tel 22420 41291 Fax 22420 41215 Rooms 295 This vast, all-inclusive resort is favoured by Italian, German, Dutch and Belgian clientele. The resort offers a wide range of activities including boat trips and picnics on nearby islands such as Psérimos. Rate includes buffet breakfast, lunch and dinner, alcoholic and soft drinks, and watersports. Closed Nov–Apr.

KOS Porto Bello Beach

Kardámaina, 85302 Tel 22420 91217 Fax 22420 91168 Rooms 340 Billed as an ‘ultra all-inclusive’ resort, the luxury Porto Bello is located on a 5 km (3 miles) long beach, 2 km (1 mile) from Kardámaina. Rate includes buffet breakfast, lunch and dinner, snacks, drinks, non-motorised water sports, a wide range of land sports and live entertainment. Closed Nov–Apr.

KOS Grecotel Kos Imperial

Psalídi, 85300 Tel 22420 58000 Fax 22420 25192 Rooms 310 This hotel, 4 km (2.4 miles) from Kos town, is lavishly landscaped with free-form pools linked by flowing streams. Accommodation includes luxury villas, family suites, and double or twin rooms. All have a balcony or terrace and a choice of garden or sea views. There is a Thalassotherapy spa. Closed Nov–Apr. www.grecotel.gr

KOS Grecotel Kos Royal Park

Agios Geórgios, Marmári, 85300 Tel 22420 41488 Fax 22420 41373 Rooms 236 This well-appointed and well-located luxury resort on sandy Marmári beach, offers all-inclusive packages as well as standard rates. Facilities and activities include pools for adults and children, windsurfing, pedaloes, canoes, beach sports, and live entertainment. Bicycle rental and horse riding are available nearby. Closed Nov–Apr. www.grecotel.gr Key to Price Guide see p302 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

KOS Louis Helios Beach

Kardámaina, 85300 Tel 22420 91602 Fax 22420 91390 Rooms 108 Upgraded to ‘A’ (five star) category in 2001, this luxury resort on a semi-private beach is pleasingly aloof from the hubbub of Kardámaina. Excellent facilities and a wide range of activities for families. All-inclusive packages are available and the hotel offers a choice of sea, pool or mountain view rooms. Closed Nov–Mar. www.louishotels.com

LEROS The Nest

Agía Marína, 85400 Tel 00 39 051 234 974 Fax 00 39 051 239 086 Rooms 1 Probably the most delightful place to stay on Léros, this luxury cottage, on a hillside between the harbour and the castle, has a double bedroom with platform bed, and a sofa bed. Beautifully decorated with silk and soft linen curtains, and fine views from the terrace over the bay. Minimum 7-night stay. Closed Nov–Mar.

NISYROS Porfyris

Mandráki, 85303 Tel 22420 31376 Fax 22420 31176 Rooms 38 The most sophisticated option on Nísyros – a pleasant, reasonably-priced hotel set among citrus groves at Mandráki, close to the harbour. There are good views from the hotel terrace across to the coast of Kos and the tiny island of Gialíi. Rooms are comfortable and simply furnished. Closed Oct–Apr.

PATMOS Artemis

Gríkos, 85500 Tel 22470 31555 Fax 22470 34016 Rooms 24 This small, resort-style hotel on the outskirts of the island’s second largest seaside village offers rooms in a villagestyle array of whitewashed bungalows. Each room has its own balcony or terrace with views of the sea. Facilities are adequate and include satellite TV, direct dial phones and fridges. Closed Oct–Apr.

PATMOS Asteri

Merichas, Skála, 85500 Tel 22470 32465 Fax 22470 31347 Rooms 37 This pleasant, small family-run hotel overlooks Mérichas bay on the outskirts of Skála. Its rooms are comfortable and modern, 11 of them have been recently added to the original building. The hotel is in a quiet location within easy walking distance of the waterfront bars and restaurants, and ferry harbour. Closed Nov–Mar.

PATMOS Blue Bay

Skála, 85500 Tel 22470 31165 Fax 22470 32303 Rooms 27 A five-minute walk from the Skála ferry dock, the aptly named Blue Bay has a quiet location and is run by a friendly Greek-Australian family. Rooms are modern and comfortable, with twin beds, neutral furnishings and wooden shutters. Breakfast is served on the waterfront terrace. Internet access. Closed Oct–Apr. [email protected]

PATMOS 9 Muses

Sapsila, Gríkos, 85500 Tel 22470 34079 Fax 22470 33151 Rooms 9 Bungalow apartments with tiled floors and private balconies or terraces, plus fabulous views, snack bar, restaurant, baby sitting and wheelchair-accessible rooms. Gríkos, the nearest village with tavernas and a beach, is around 2 km (1 mile) away. Scooter rental and car parking available. Booking essential. Closed Nov–Apr. www.9muses-gr.com

RHODES Mango

Plateía Dorieos 3 (Old Town), 85100 Tel 22410 36957 Fax 22410 24877 Rooms 14 Situated on one of the Old Town’s quieter squares, Mango is clean, cheap and cheerful with basic en-suite rooms with fridges. There is a roof terrace with views of the Old Town, broadband internet access and cheap drinks. A favourite with scuba divers and yachties. Five-minute walk from ferry quay. Closed Nov–Mar. www.mango.gr

RHODES Paris

Agíou Fanouriou 88 (Old Town), 85100 Tel 22410 26356 Fax 22410 21095 Rooms 20 Basic, affordable rooms surrounding a small courtyard in the heart of the Old Town. Single, twin and three-bed rooms, some en-suite, some with shared shower and WC. Within walking distance of the ferry harbour, and (after the bar closes) quiet at night. Plenty of places to eat and drink nearby. Closed Nov–Mar.

RHODES Apollo

Omirou 82, 85100 Tel 22410 32003 Rooms 6 This restored old house has bright, breezy rooms with four-poster beds – spend a bit extra for the more expensive top-floor rooms at the front which have wonderful Old Town views. Set in a quieter part of the Old Town with a pretty inner courtyard. Short walk to sights and shopping. Closed Nov–Apr. www.apollo-touristhouse.com

RHODES Archontiko Angelou

Waterfront, Alínda, 85400 Tel 22470 22749 Fax 22470 24403 Rooms 8 Built in 1895, this lovely pink and white mansion has been prettily restored and is now a well-kept, family-run guesthouse with traditionally-furnished rooms. The guesthouse is set in an attractive garden full of jasmine and geraniums. No restaurant but picnic lunches can be arranged. Short walk to beach. Closed Nov–Mar. www.hotel-angelou-leros.com

RHODES Camelot

Themistokléous 18, 85100 Tel 22410 26649 Fax 22410 26549 Rooms 3 Small pension in a medieval building a short walk from the Old Town’s busy main squares. Choice of simple double or triple rooms with en-suite WC and shower or twin rooms with separate toilet and shower. Pretty pebbled inner courtyard, lavish breakfasts and attractive surroundings. Closed Nov–Apr. www.camelothotel.gr

RHODES Domus Rodos

Plateía Plátonos, Rhodes Old Town, 85100 Tel 2410 25965 Fax 2410 24766 Rooms 24 Good, quiet location on a square close to the centre of the Old Town. The building has antique features such as wooden ceilings and staircases, and rooms are simply furnished. No restaurant but several places to eat and drink just a few steps from the front door. Closed Nov–Apr. www.domusrodoshotel.gr

RHODES San Nikolis Hotel

Ipodamou, Rhodes Old Town, 85100 Tel 22410 34561 Fax 22410 32034 Rooms 18 Nestling under the walls of the Old Town is this charming, small hotel housed in an old Rhodian townhouse with stone walls covered with ivy and bougainvillea. Rooms are very comfortable, with antique furnishings, and some with balconies. Excellent views from the rooftop terrace. Closed Nov–Apr. www.s-nikolis.gr

RHODES Aldemar Paradise Royal Mare and Paradise Village

Koskinoú, 85100 Tel 22420 Fax 22420 Rooms 1270 This huge, all-inclusive resort, 6 km (3.5 miles) from Rhodes Town, combines two hotels, the five-storey Royal and the low-rise Paradise Village. There are nine pools, including two toddler pools, and a semi-private beach. Wheelchair access to all public areas plus five wheelchair-friendly poolside bungalows. Closed Nov–Mar. www.aldemarhotels.com

RHODES Annapolis Inn

28 Oktobríou and Ionos Dragoumi, Rhodes New Town, 85100 Tel 22410 24538 Fax 22410 31910 Rooms 44 This comfortable hotel in Rhodes New Town comprises 44 studios, suites and apartments with well-equipped mini-kitchens. All rooms have balconies and most have luxury bathrooms. Suites with wheelchair access are also available. Mini-market. 24-hour reception. www.annapolisinn.gr

RHODES Marco Polo Mansion

Agíou Fanouriou 40-42, Rhodes Old Town, 85100 Tel 22410 25562 Fax 22410 29115 Rooms 7 Gorgeously evocative of medieval Rhodes, with double and twin rooms in a superbly restored 16th-century Ottoman townhouse. Wooden floors, painted ceilings, gorgeous fabrics and a leafy inner courtyard where à la carte meals can be ordered. Closed Nov–Apr. www.marcopolomansion.web.com

RHODES Fashion Hotel Nikos Takis

Panetiou 26, Rhodes Old Town, 85100 Tel 22410 70773 Fax 22410 24643 Rooms 4 Colourful and stylish new hotel in the Old Town, owned by two of Greece’s best known fashion designers. Great location next to the Palace of the Grand Masters. Suites have four-poster beds, carved wooden furniture, embroidered silk soft furnishings and luxury bathrooms. Views over the Old Town. www.nikostakishotel.com

RHODES Melenos Lindos

Líndos, 85107 Tel 22440 32222 Fax 22440 31720 Rooms 12 Located in the village centre, Melenos is a haven of style and luxury. Its white, village-style rooms, with wooden furniture and comfortable platform beds, are in true Lindian style. There are flower-filled terraces and a fine rooftop restaurant. Closed Nov–Apr. www.melenoslindos.com

RHODES Rodos Palace

Leofóros Triádon, Ixia, 85100 Tel 22410 25222 Fax 22410 25350 Rooms 470 Built in the 1960s and completely renovated in 2001, the Rodos Palace is the island’s flagship luxury hotel. Rooms and suites surround a central 20-storey tower with world-class views from the upper floor rooms. Choice of bars and restaurants, indoor and outdoor pools, excellent leisure and business facilities. www.rodos-palace.gr

RHODES Rodos Park Suites

Riga Fereou 12, 85100 Tel 22410 24612 Fax 22410 24613 Rooms 60 The most luxurious hotel in Rhodes New Town, the Rodos Park Suites was opened in 1962 and was completely rebuilt in 2002. Excellent facilities including a fine pool and courtyard, a good restaurant, stylish bar, and rooms with modern facilities including satellite TV and internet access. 24-hour room service. www.rodospark.gr

SYMI Les Catherinettes & Marina Studios

Harani, Sými town, 85600 Tel 22460 71671 Fax 22460 72698 Rooms 12 A lovely old mansion overlooking the harbour (with a traditional taverna at street level). All twin rooms have fridges, high coffered and painted ceilings, tall windows and small balconies with views. Across the narrow alley, the studios and apartments sleep 2–4 and have fully-equipped kitchens and verandas. Closed Oct–Apr. [email protected]

SYMI Alyki

Waterfront, Sými town, 85600 Tel 22460 71665 Fax 22460 71655 Rooms 15 A delightful converted ship-owners’ mansion right on the waterfront. The bedrooms do not live up to the grandeur of the lobby, but the best have balconies and lovely harbour views. Café-terrace on the water’s edge, and a bathing ladder gives access to the clean water of the harbour. Quiet location. Closed Oct–Apr.

TELENDOS On the Rocks

Chochlakas, Télendos, 85200 Tel 22430 48260 Fax 22430 48261 Rooms 3 Three comfortable rooms with balconies overlooking the neighbouring island of Kálymnos. On the Rocks is situated right on the beach and has an excellent fish restaurant and small friendly bar. Only for those seeking real island peace and quiet. Closed Oct–Apr. Key to Price Guide see p302 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

THE CYCLADES AMORGOS Aegialis

On hillside above Aigiáli Village, 84008 Tel 22850 73393 Fax 22850 73395 Rooms 48 This is the smartest hotel in Aigiáli and boasts fine views of the sea and nearby islands from its hillside location. Ideal setting for a peaceful holiday with sandy beaches and village tavernas within walking distance. A good base for exploring Amorgós. www.amorgos-aegialis.com

AMORGOS Lakkí Village

Lakkí Beach, Aigiáli, 84008 Tel 22850 73506 Fax 22850 73244 Rooms 67 Delightful village of double rooms, suites, bungalows and family apartments in blue and white split-level buildings surrounding a garden of flowers and organic vegetables (served in the hotel’s own taverna). Children’s playground and shallow, clean, sandy beach nearby. Shuttle bus to harbour. Closed Nov–Apr. www.lakkivillage.gr

ANDROS Eleni Mansion

Empirikou 9, Chóra, 84500 Tel 22820 22270 Fax 22820 22294 Rooms 8 A fine example of an Andros sea-captain’s mansion, converted into a cosy hotel with single, twin and triple rooms. Rooms have tall ceilings and windows, wood floors, dark furniture and pink soft furnishings. Only the upstairs rooms have views, one room has its own roof terrace, and all have a small fridge. Closed Oct–Apr. www.elenimansion.gr

ANDROS Paradise Andros

Chóra, Andros, 84500 Tel 22820 22187 Fax 22820 22340 Rooms 44 This elegantly appointed hotel is set in a gracious Neo-Classical building with an ornate interior of antiques, chandeliers and mirrors. The hotel is favoured by well-off Athenians and is situated on the outskirts of Andros town, 700 metres (2,300 ft) from the beach. Good restaurant and attentive service. Closed Nov–Mar. www.paradiseandros.gr

ANTIPAROS Lilly’s

Chóra, Antíparos, 84007 Tel 22840 61411 Fax 22840 28328 Rooms 15 Tiny Antíparos is where you go to escape the summer bustle of neighbouring Páros and Lilly’s is the perfect retreat. Twin and double rooms, self-catering apartments, and two cottages sleeping up to four people are set around a small pool and garden with palm trees. The Cycladic-style rooms are bright and breezy. Closed Oct–Apr. www.lillyisland.com

FOLEGANDROS Kifines tou Aegaiou

Chóra, 84011 Tel 22860 41274 Fax 22860 41274 Rooms 8 Three studios sleeping up to four people and one split-level apartment sleeping up to five, amid fields just outside Chóra. All have basic kitchenettes and are prettily decorated in blues and yellows. Breakfast is served on the terrace and Chóra, 500 metres (1,640 ft) away, has plenty of restaurants, bars and cafés. Closed Nov–Apr. www.kifines.gr

FOLEGANDROS Anenomylos

Chóra, 84111 Tel 22860 41309 Fax 22860 41407 Rooms 17 This immaculate, clifftop complex of cottage apartments has views to match any in the Aegean. Each studio has a traditional stone platform bed and separate sitting area. The views from each balcony are stupendous. There is a small bar beside a circular pool. Closed Nov–Apr. www.anenomilosapartments.com

IOS Liostasi Ios

Germanoli, Chóra, 84001 Tel 22860 92140 Fax 22860 92680 Rooms 27 This stylish but affordable little resort is a good choice on budget-conscious Ios. There is a great pool with deck and bar, and all the rooms have balconies or verandas with harbour views. The nightlife of Chóra is just 1 km (0.5 miles) away. No extra charge for children under four sharing with parents. Closed Nov–Apr. www.liostasi.gr

KEA Brillante Zoi

Korissía, 84002 Tel 22880 22685 Fax 22880 22687 Rooms 22 An attractive small hotel on the way to one of Kéa’s better beaches and favoured by a clientele of Athenian weekenders. Rooms are large with colourful tiled bathrooms and a choice of sea and mountain views. Ioulis Village, 5 km (3 miles) away, has bars and tavernas. www.hotelbrillante.gr

KEA Keos Katikies

Korissía, 84002 Tel 22880 21661 Fax 22880 21659 Rooms 15 Beautiful sunset views from the west-facing rooms of this tiny, friendly hotel. Rooms with verandas or balconies overlook the bay and natural harbour below. The small café-bar, where breakfast and snacks are served, also has a fine panoramic outlook. Closed Oct–Apr. www.keos.gr

KYTHNOS Kalypso

Loutrá, 84006 Tel 22810 31418 Fax 22810 31163 Rooms 12 Set above the village of Loutrá, with its beach and hot springs, the Kalypso offers twin and double-bedded rooms, some with basic self-catering facilities including two-ring cooker and fridge. The building is in traditional Cycladic style, with stone, white plaster and blue woodwork. Tavernas and cafés nearby in Loutrá. Closed Oct–Apr.

KYTHNOS Porto Klaras

Loutrá Beach, 84006 Tel 22810 31276 Fax 22810 31600 Rooms 20 Well-appointed, small apartment complex near the beach and Kýthnos’s natural hot springs. The springs attract a steady flow of Greek sufferers from arthritis, rheumatism and other ailments, so the rooms have better than usual wheelchair access. Family suites, twins and doubles with sea views. Closed Nov–Apr. www.porto-klaras.gr

MILOS Seagull Apartments

Provatas, 84801 Tel 22870 23183 Fax 22870 22294 Rooms 12 Newly-built collection of apartments in Cycladic village-style cottages with wooden balconies, whitewashed terraces, and views of the village and the sea. Single, double and family apartments available, each with a fully-equipped kitchenette. Lagada beach is 100 metres (328 ft) away. Closed Oct–Apr.

MILOS Alba

Adámas, 84801 Tel 22870 23239 Fax 22870 23239 Rooms 5 Tiny, affordable and friendly, with stylish studios. Rooms have tiled floors, queen-sized beds, good bathrooms and a fully equipped mini-kitchen. Each has its own terrace with white sun umbrellas and wide views of the bay. Very good value for money. Closed Oct–Apr.

MILOS Popi’s Windmill

Off main square, Trypití, 84801 Tel 22870 22286 Fax 22870 22396 Rooms 8 Popi’s Windmill is a luxuriously converted windmill sleeping up to five people on three levels, with veranda and views towards Adamas port. There is a separate living room, dining room and kitchen, shared WC and shower room (but no bath) and twice-weekly maid service. Closed Sep–Jan.

MYKONOS Pension Matina

Chóra, 84600 Tel 22890 23049 Fax 22890 26423 Rooms 40 Situated on the outskirts of Mýkonos town, this small hotel complex has all modern conveniences including a goodsized swimming pool and rooms with air conditioning and balconies. Built in typical mock-Cycladic style, it is within walking distance of the restaurants and shops of Chóra. Closed Oct–Apr. www.pension-matina.gr

MYKONOS Rohari

Rohari, Chóra, 84600 Tel 22890 23107 Fax 22890 24307 Rooms 60 This mid-sized hotel on the outskirts of Mýkonos Town has light and breezy rooms, and views overlooking the white roofs of the village and the harbour. Relatively quiet, though some noise from the main road, and just under 1 km (0.6 miles) from the ferry port. Closed Nov–Mar.

MYKONOS Belvedere

Skoli Kalon Technon, Rohari, Chóra, 84801 Tel 22890 25122 Fax 22890 25126 Rooms 50 A pleasant boutique hotel with friendly, professional service. Rooms are in whitewashed buildings with green-painted shutters, those at the front look out over the roofs of Mýkonos Town to the sea. Good restaurant and bar, modern facilities including satellite TV. Quiet at night, but some traffic noise from main road at rear. www.belvedere.com

MYKONOS Cavo Tagoo

Thesi Tagkou, Mýkonos, 84600 Tel 22890 23692 Fax 22890 24923 Rooms 72 Located on a hillside about 2 km (1 mile) from the centre of Mýkonos Town, Cavo Tagoo stands in splendid isolation away from the bustle of the island capital, but within a short drive of its shops, restaurants and nightlife. Built in village style, with white walls and blue woodwork. Shady eucalyptus trees and fine views. Closed Nov–Mar. www.cavotagoo.gr

MYKONOS Villa Konstantin

Agios Vassílios, Chóra, 84600 Tel 22890 26204 Fax 22890 26205 Rooms 14 Fine hillside location overlooking Mýkonos Town, with flagstoned paths and a courtyard filled with geraniums and jasmine. A mix of apartments, double and triple rooms, all self-catering with fridge and small cooker. Each room has its own balcony or miniature terrace. Closed Oct–Mar. www.villakonstantin.com

MYKONOS Zorzis

Kalogeras, Chóra, 84600 Tel 22890 22167 Fax 22890 24169 Rooms 10 A charming small hotel with lots of individual style, located in the centre of Mýkonos town but on a quiet pedestrian street. The rooms have luxury en-suite shower and WC with power shower, Louis XV antique beds, beamed ceilings and roof fans. Small terrace on the street and another, more secluded, at rear. Closed Nov–Mar. www.zorzishotel.com

MYKONOS Mykonos Theoxenia

Chóra, 84600 Tel 22890 22230 Fax 22890 23800 Rooms 52 Stylish and colourful hotel operated by the Louis group. Designer rooms with luxury bathrooms and balconies overlooking the bay or the huge pool. Located beside the town’s famous row of windmills, five minutes walk from the centre. Excellent service, good food and pleasant atmosphere. Closed Nov–Mar. www.mykonostheoxenia.com

MYKONOS Princess of Mýkonos

Agios Stéfanos, 84600 Tel 22890 24713 Fax 22890 23031 Rooms 38 Situated on one of the island’s most exclusive beaches, 4 km (2.5 miles) from Mýkonos town, this hotel is chic and stylish. Its small size allows for personal, attentive service and, like most Mýkonos hotels, it is designed in mockCycladic style. The pool is on the small side, but the beach is nearby. Closed Nov–Mar. www.princessofmykonos.gr Key to Price Guide see p302 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

MYKONOS Semeli

Rohari, Chóra, 84600 Tel 22890 27466 Fax 22890 27467 Rooms 62 A very attractive hotel with the atmosphere of a private manor house. Rooms and public areas are beautifully light and breezy, decorated in off-white and pale green shades. Four-poster beds in some rooms. Large pool in a walled courtyard full of shrubs and potted flowers. 500 metres (1,640 ft) from the beach. Closed Oct–Apr.

MYKONOS Mýkonos Grand

Agios Ioánnis, 84600 Tel 22890 25555 Fax 22890 25111 Rooms 107 One of the very best hotels on Mýkonos, the Mýkonos Grand overlooks Agios Ioánnis Bay. Two-storey, village-style building with whitewashed walls, arches and terracotta pots full of flowering shrubs. Rooms are light and airy and very well-furnished. Excellent service and equally good food. Closed Nov–Mar. www.mykonosgrand.gr

NAXOS Castro

Kástro, Chóra, 84300 Tel 22850 25201 Fax 22850 25200 Rooms 2 Book well in advance to stay in one of the two apartments in this old whitewashed building inside the ramparts of the old Venetian town. Each has basic self-catering facilities and is furnished with antiques. Shared sun terrace and views over the roofs of the old town. Closed Nov–Apr.

NAXOS Chateau Zevgoli

Bourgos, Chóra, 84300 Tel 22850 25201 Fax 22850 25200 Rooms 9 Wonderfully atmospheric with whitewashed rooms in an old island home that overlooks a tiny flower-filled courtyard. The rooms are small but cosy and furnished with island antiques – stripy rugs and old wooden beds. Rooftop terrace with super views across the harbour. Closed Nov–Mar.

NAXOS Grotta

Náxos town, 84300 Tel 22850 22101 Fax 22850 22000 Rooms 40 Beautifully situated on a headland north of the Venetian Kástro, this hotel is built in the same style as the medieval castle and enjoys good views of the whitewashed town and the sea. Rooms are neutrally decorated, with traditional striped rugs and bedspreads, and have satellite TV and fridge. www.hotelgrotta.gr

NAXOS Kavos

Agios Prokopios, 84300 Tel 22850 23355 Fax 22850 26031 Rooms 19 Located on one of the best beaches in the Aegean, Kavos offers a collection of excellent value studios, apartments and suites with self catering facilities. Rooms are in simple white cottages, surrounded by greenery, and each has painted furniture and galleried bed spaces. Closed Nov–Mar. www.kavos-naxos.com

PAROS Dina

Main shopping street, Paroikia, 84400 Tel 22840 21325 Fax 22840 23525 Rooms 8 A small and friendly establishment, centrally placed on a bustling street in the heart of Paroikiá. Rooms have wrought iron balconies and fridges and some look out over the village rooftops or across to the old church of Agia Triada. Affordable comfort, plain clean rooms. Closed Nov–Apr. www.hoteldina.com

PAROS Anthippi

Paroikiá, 84400 Tel 22840 21601 Fax 22840 21601 Rooms 9 This pretty guesthouse is a bargain, with rooms decorated in beachcomber style – shells, model boats, driftwood and other finds from the sea – with mural paintings and beamed ceilings. Lots of greenery on the garden terrace and a small bar by the pool. Closed Oct–Apr. www.anthippi.com

PAROS Heaven Naoussa

Náousa, 84401 Tel 22840 51549 Fax 22840 51575 Rooms 9 Not far from the centre of Náousa, this complex of rooms in traditional-style stone cottages surrounds a walled pool. Rooms are light, airy, prettily decorated and furnished. Two self-catering apartments are also available by the week. Harbour-side shops and restaurants are just a couple of minutes’ walk away. Closed Sep–May. www.heaven-naoussa.gr

PAROS Lefkes Village

Léfkes, 84400 Tel 22840 41827 Fax 22840 42398 Rooms 20 Great location in the hills of Páros – some way from the beach but with a gorgeous pool and magnificent views to compensate. Neo-Classical style villas with spacious rooms, each with balcony, and four-poster beds. Set in lush gardens and with its own quirky museum of island life. Closed Oct–Apr. www.lefkesvillage.gr

PAROS Petres

Agios Andréas, Náousa, 84401 Tel 22840 52467 Fax 22840 52759 Rooms 17 The rooms here have high, beamed ceilings, whitewashed walls, big brass beds and antique wardrobes. Those at the front look out over the bay, others over lush gardens or a large pool surrounded by greenery. Snack bar, tennis court and gym. The beach is only a few steps away. Closed Oct–Apr. www.petres.gr

PAROS Astir of Páros

Kolympíthres, 84400 Tel 22840 51976 Fax 22840 51985 Rooms 57 Luxury is the hallmark of this village-style resort next to one of Paros’s best beaches. The resort is set in lush tropical grounds full of bougainvillea and palm trees. There is a children’s pool, sauna, putting green, tennis courts, choice of bars and restaurants, art gallery, shuttle bus to Paroikia and even a heli-pad. Closed Nov–Apr. www.astirofparos.gr

SANTORINI Keti

Thíra, 84700 Tel 22860 22324 Fax 22860 22380 Rooms 7 Just off the steep steps that lead from Thira Town to the harbour below, Hotel Keti shares the same stunning crater view as the much more costly boutique hotels elsewhere on the island. The whitewashed rooms have arched ceilings, marble floors and are simply furnished and decorated. Closed Oct–Apr. www.hotelketi.gr

SANTORINI Chelidonia

Oía, 84702 Tel 22860 71287 Fax 22860 71649 Rooms 16 Collection of nine traditional “cave-houses” restored by the owners since the early 1980s and now comprising a choice of two studios and seven houses sleeping up to four. Each has a private balcony and all are decorated in dazzling white, blue woodwork and splashes of yellow. Views to match any in Oía. www.chelidonia.com

SANTORINI Chromata

Imerovígli, 84700 Tel 22860 24850 Fax 22860 23728 Rooms 22 Dazzlingly colourful, with rooms decorated in hot pink or cool turquoise, and mock-leopard and zebra prints. A clear plexiglass platform spans the pool, and a table can be set on it for a floodlit dinner. Rooms are set in tiers, with small terraces. Under the same management as Katikies in Oia. Closed Nov–Mar. www.chromata-santorini.com

SANTORINI Artemis Villas

Imerovígli, 84700 Tel 22860 22712 Fax 22860 23638 Rooms 10 Friendly, affordable complex of Santorinian skaftes (cave houses), on the lip of the famous caldera and with the requisite soaring views over the crater and its islands. Rooms are whitewashed and have private balconies, furnishings are a mix of antique and modern. The sunset views are as good as any on Santoríni. www.artemisvillas.gr

SANTORINI Esperas

Oía, 84702 Tel 22860 71088 Fax 22860 71613 Rooms 20 Superb sunset views and bedrooms tunneled into the cliffside are features of this wonderful collection of studios, suites and villas. All en-suite, but shower rooms are small; each unit has a fridge and kitchenette. Apartments have gallery beds, villas have two bedrooms. An excellent pool with shady grottoes. Closed Nov–Mar. www.esperas.gr

SANTORINI Katikies

Oía, Santoríni, 84700 Tel 22860 71401 Fax 22860 71129 Rooms 22 Stunning views from the horizon pool make this the best hotel on Santoríni. The elegantly-appointed, traditional cave-rooms are whitewashed, each has a private terrace, some terraces also have whirlpools. Fine restaurant and attentive service. Closed Nov–Apr. www.slh.com

SANTORINI Notos Therme & Spa

Vlycháda, 84703 Tel 22860 81115 Fax 22860 81266 Rooms 28 Marvellous hillside location with views over the vineyards of Santoríni and its spectacular crater. Rooms are luxuriously but simply appointed in a mix of double or twin, superior double, junior and senior suites. Lovely poolside bar and outstanding programme of health and beauty therapeutic treatments. Closed Oct–May. www.snotos.com

SANTORINI Perivolas

Oía, 84702 Tel 22860 71308 Fax 22860 71309 Rooms 19 This is one of the boutique hotels which put Oía on the style map and it is immaculately designed and decorated with service and facilities to match. Some rooms have private whirlpool or plunge pool and there is a superb infinity pool overlooking the caldera. Gourmet restaurant. Closed Nov–Mar. www.perivolas.gr

SANTORINI Sun Rocks

Firostefani, 84700 Tel 22860 23241 Fax 22860 23991 Rooms 25 Strictly for romantic couples, Sun Rocks is one of the classiest operations on Santoríni, with four-poster beds in whitevaulted rooms, a pretty pool with breathtaking views, a pleasant bar from which to relish the scenery, and two excellent restaurants. Service to match, but it is a steep 150-step climb to the car park. Closed Nov–Mar. www.sunrocks.gr

SANTORINI Zannos Melathron

Pýrgos, 84700 Tel 22860 28220 Fax 22860 28229 Rooms 9 Superbly opulent hotel housed in a 19th-century mansion and retaining original features such as fine murals and painted ceilings. Located in the quiet village of Pýrgos, the hotel enjoys views of the surrounding vineyards from its terraces. Large rooms and suites. Caviar on the menu and fine cigars and vintages in the bar. Closed Oct–Apr. www.zannos.gr

SIFNOS Noble Apartments Kástro, Sífnos, 84003 Tel 62589 6953 Fax 13105 455140 Rooms 1

An authentic Sifniot village home, sleeping up to 3 people. Whitewashed stone walls, olive wood furniture, striped island fabrics and small but well-equipped kitchen. Available only by the week, but a unique island experience and good value for money. Must be booked well in advance. www.nobleapartments.com

SIFNOS Aperanto

Fáros, Sífnos, 84003 Tel 22840 71473 Fax 22840 71473 Rooms 9 Fabulous and affordable guesthouse with a great location in a charming village. Rooms are attractively furnished with iron or platform beds and decorated with island ceramics and some antique furniture. Peaceful village with a handful of tavernas. The guesthouse is a short walk away from Apokoftos beach. Closed Oct–Apr. Key to Price Guide see p302 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

SIFNOS Petali Village

Ano Petali, Apollonía, 84003 Tel 22840 33024 Fax 22840 33391 Rooms 20 Surpisingly modern within, belying its village-style architecture. Rooms are in plain, whitewashed cottages with luxury bathrooms and modern, neutral furnishings. Facilities include satellite TV, and a pleasant terrace restaurant. Located on the outksirts of Apollonía, some way from the beach. www.hotelpetali.gr

SYROS Apollonos

Apóllonos 8, Ermoupoli, 84100 Tel 22810 81387 Fax 22810 83082 Rooms 3 Extremely plush accommodation in a lovely Sýros mansion with wrought-iron balconies looking straight out over the harbour. Prettily painted ceilings, gleaming chandeliers, polished wood floors and antique dressers recreate the 19thcentury heyday of Ermoúpoli – once the wealthiest city in the islands. Book well ahead. [email protected]

TINOS Voreades

Foskolou 7, Chóra, 84200 Tel 22830 23845 Rooms 12 With its whitewashed walls, arched doorways, exposed patterned stonework and flagstoned floors, this little guesthouse is typically Tinos. Choice of single and double rooms and one two-bedroom suite, all with fridge and private balcony. Small café-bar and views of the sea and the nearby islands. Closed Nov–Feb. www.voreades.gr

TINOS Carlo

Agios Ioánnis, 84200 Tel 22830 24159 Fax 22830 24169 Rooms 24 This attractive small bungalow complex is in the familiar Cycladic style and sits on a hillside with fine views. Rooms have modern facilities including fridge, each has a balcony with views. Facilities include broadband internet access. Shuttle bus service to the island port. Closed Nov–Mar. www.bungalowscarlotinos.gr

CRETE

AGIA ROUMELI Tara-Calypso

Agía Rouméli, 73011 Tel 28250 91231 Fax 28250 91431 Rooms 30 Most people pass straight through Agía Rouméli after walking the Samariá Gorge. For those who want to linger a little longer, this small hotel is something of a bargain, with clean, simple rooms close to the beach, some of them with views out over the Libyan Sea. No restaurant, but plenty of tavernas in the village. Closed Nov–Mar.

AGIOS NIKOLAOS Minos Beach Art ‘Otel

Ammoudí, 72100 Tel 28410 22345 Fax 28410 22548 Rooms 180 A medium-sized complex of rooms and bungalows just outside Agios Nikólaos. The complex boasts a large pool, semi-private beaches, lush grounds with a collection of specially commissioned sculptures, and super views of the lovely Gulf of Mirabello. Seafront suites have private pools. Good restaurant. Closed Nov–Mar.

AGIOS NIKOLAOS St Nicolas Bay

Agios Nikólaos, 72100 Tel 28410 25041 Fax 28410 24556 Rooms 108 Magnificent complex of bungalows and luxury suites – some with private pool – on an enviable seaside site just outside Agios Nikólaos. Landscaped gardens full of citrus and olive trees surround the buildings and the hotel has its own virtually private beach. Watersports and choice of 8 restaurants and bars. Closed Nov–Mar. www.stnicolasbay.com

ARCHANES Villa Arhanes

Ano Archánes, 70100 Tel 28103 90770 Fax 28103 90778 Rooms 9 in 6 apartments This 19th-century farmhouse offers half-board or bed-and-breakfast accommodation. Rooms are cosy with traditional furnishings and antiques. There is a shared pool and views over the rolling vineyards. This professionallyrun villa is a short drive from Knossos and Irakleio. www.maris.gr

CHANIA Nostos

Zamnbeliou 46, 73113 Tel 28210 94743 Fax 28210 94740 Rooms 12 This charming, brightly painted little hotel sits on a traffic free lane in the heart of Chaniá’s old quarter. From its shaded roof terrace there are fine views out to sea and to the peaks of the White Mountains. Studio rooms have balconies and gallery beds. One block back from the harbour. www.greek-tourism.gr/nostos-hotel

CHANIA Palazzo di Pietro Agion Déka 13, 73100 Tel 28210 20410 Fax 28210 58338 Rooms 7 Housed in an 800-year-old townhouse in Chaniá’s most atmospheric, traffic-free street. Lovely studios and apartments with mini-kitchen, stone fireplaces, four-poster beds and designer bathrooms. No views, but on the plus side, none of the noise that you get when you stay on the waterfront. www.palazzodipietro.com

CHANIA Pandora Suites

Lithinon 27–29, 73132 Tel 28210 43588 Fax 28210 57864 Rooms 12 Eight double/twin rooms, plus four apartments, perched high above Chaniá harbour and with panoramic views of the White Mountains. Rooftop terrace, pretty interior courtyard with tropical plants, helpful and attentive staff, and the cafés and restaurants of the harbourfront just a short walk away. Closed Nov–Mar. www.pandorahotel.gr

CHANIA Amfora

Parodos Theotokopoulou 20, 73131 Tel 28210 93224 Fax 28210 93226 Rooms 21 This 13th-century Venetian mansion has tastefully appointed rooms and a charming roof terrace overlooking Chaniá’s picturesque harbour. Situated in the heart of Chaniá’s old quarter, on a mostly traffic free street just a few steps from the waterfront with its numerous restaurants, shops and bars.

CHANIA Villa Andromeda

Venizelou 150, 73133 Tel 28210 28300 Fax 28210 28303 Rooms 8 Oozing period dignity, this 19th-century building was once the German consulate. There are eight plainlyfurnished suites. The grand sitting rooms, by contrast, glow with yellow stucco. Large pool and terrace outside. Located 2 km (1 mile) from the harbour front. Closed Nov–Mar. www.villandromeda.gr

CHANIA Casa Delfino

Theofanou 9, 73100 Tel 28210 87400 Fax 28210 96500 Rooms 22 One of the most stylish and luxurious boutique hotels in Crete, with beautifully designed and furnished rooms and suites surrounding a fountain courtyard. Originally an aristocrat’s mansion, Casa Delfino has gleaming marble floors and serves truly splendid buffet breakfasts. The penthouse suite has harbour views. www.casadelfino.com

CHANIA Metohi Kindelis

Perivólia, Chaniá, 73100 Tel 28210 41321 Fax 28210 43930 Rooms 2 apartments Each of these superb villa apartments within a large Venetian farmhouse has its own pool, set in huge, lush gardens. Inside are cool marble floors, wood-burning fireplaces for cooler evenings, fully equipped kitchens and luxurious bathrooms. Extras include satellite TV and DVD players. www.metohi-kindelis.gr

CHANIA Perle Roi Hotel and Health Spa

Stavrós, Akoritíri, 73100 Tel 28210 39400 Fax 28210 39650 Rooms 126 Opened in 2002, the Perle Roi offers a range of health and beauty programmes, good facilities for children, comfortable rooms and suites, bars, a good restaurant, and an indoor heated pool as well as an outdoor pool. The nearest beach is at Stavros, 4 km (2.5 miles) from the hotel. Closed mid-Oct–Mar. www.perle-spa.com

CHERSONISOS Creta Maris

Chersónisos, 70014 Tel 28970 27000 Fax 28970 22130 Rooms 180 This is one of the area’s longest established luxury resort complexes, with comfortably appointed bungalows in wellmaintained grounds. Facilities and service are excellent, with a choice of bars, restaurants and activities. The resort even has its own outdoor theatre and open-air cinema. Good facilities for children. Closed Nov–Mar. www.maris.gr

CHERSONISOS Galaxy Villas

Agiou Konstantínou, Koutouloufari, 70014 Tel 28970 22910 Fax 28970 21074 Rooms 53 A low-rise resort of apartments, built in traditional style using natural materials. The resort is surrounded by lawns and palm trees and is only 1 km (0.6 miles) from Chersónisos. Each villa has a private veranda or patio with sea or mountain views. Facilities include children’s playground, billiards and TV room. Closed Nov–Mar. www.galaxy-villas.com.gr

ELOUNTA Eloúnda Island Villas

Kolokytha, 72053 Tel 28410 41274 Fax 28410 41276 Rooms 30 in 10 apartments Modern split-level apartments with basic self-catering facilities on their own island, connected with mainland Eloúnta by a bridge. Attractive terraces with beautiful views out to sea and a tiny, virtually private beach, as well as a tennis court. The bars and tavernas of Elounta are a 5–10 minute walk away. Closed Nov–Mar. www.eloundaisland.gr

ELOUNTA Eloúnda Beach Hotel

Eloúnta, 72053 Tel 28410 63000 Fax 28410 41373 Rooms 258 The “grande dame” of Greek resorts, the Eloúnda Beach offers luxurious villas – some with private pools – scattered around a picturesque headland and a private beach. Excellent water sports, fine dining, very attentive service. Closed Nov–Mar. www.eloundabeach.gr

ELOUNTA Eloúnda Mare Hotel

Eloúnta, 72053 Tel 28410 41102 Fax 28410 41307 Rooms 215 suites and villas One of Greece’s most luxurious resort hotels, with a mix of suites and villas set in lush grounds. Facilities include a choice of bars and restaurants, watersports and in-room extras such as satellite TV and DVD players. There is also a golf course and other activities nearby. Excellent service. Closed Nov–Mar. www.eloundabeach.gr

IERAPETRA Eden Rock

Agia Fotiá, 72200 Tel 28420 61723 Fax 28420 61734 Rooms 100 Very comfortable, mid-range hotel on a quiet beach, close to Galíni village and 15km (9 miles) west of Ierápetra Town. Accommodation is a mix of rooms with balconies, self-catering studios and apartments, and one grand villa. Rooms have satellite TV and the hotel is just a short walk from the beach. www.edenrock.gr

IRAKLEIO Lato Hotel

Epimenidou 15, 71202 Tel 28102 28103 Fax 28103 34955 Rooms 58 Formerly comfortable but undistinguished, the Lato – in the centre of the old town – has been reborn as Irákleio’s first boutique hotel. Its rooms are stylish with balconies, terraces or glassed-in mini-conservatories, satellite TV and internet access. There is also a roof garden, mini-gym and sauna. www.lato.gr Key to Price Guide see p302 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

IRAKLEIO Sofitel Capsis Palace Hotel and Capsis Beach Hotel

Agía Pelagía, 71000 Tel 28108 11112 Fax 28018 11314 Rooms 4 This huge, self-contained luxury complex stands on its own promontory and combines two hotels and a conference centre. The complex offers a full range of watersports and other facilities and activities, including its own zoo. Rooms range from standard doubles to large suites with private pool, butler and maid service. Private beach. www.capsis.gr

IRAKLEIO Villa Helidona

Episkopí, 70008 Tel 28102 88101 Fax 28102 88101 Rooms 4 One of the few villas with pools that can be rented independently by the week. Villa Helidona sits on the outskirts of a small market town among fields and vineyards, not far from Crete’s capital. There is a large pool and a fullyequipped kitchen. Shops and restaurants are nearby. www.villahelidona.com

KASTELLI KISSAMOU Mirtilos

Kastélli, 73400 Tel 28220 23079 Fax 28220 23079 Rooms 35 Comfortable if a little bland, this hotel offers well-appointed rooms in self-catering suites or apartments. Rooms have satellite TV and balcony or veranda with a choice of sea, mountain or garden view. There is a large pool surrounded by lawns and palm trees. Internet facilities available. Closed Nov–Mar. www.mirtilos.com

LASITHI Zeus’s House

Agios Konstantínos, 72052 Tel 28102 22218 Fax 28102 288240 Rooms 2 In the middle of the Lasíthi plateau, Zeus’s House offers apartment rooms in a beautiful restored traditional house with flagstone floors and stone arches. The rooms are decorated with local antiques and sleep up to four people. Good pool in a large, verdant garden. Closed Nov–Mar. www.cretanvillas.gr

LOUTRO Hotel Porto Loutró

Loutró, 73011 Tel 28250 01433 Fax 28250 91091 Rooms 45 Hotel Porto Loutró is in the heart of a tiny village that is only accessible by boat. The rooms are elegantly simple but very comfortable. All have a terrace or balcony; the best have views over the bay. This is a perfect base for exploring the White Mountains. Closed Nov–Mar. www.hotelportoloutro.com

LOUTRO The Blue House

Loutró, 73011 Tel 28250 91337 Fax 28250 91337 Rooms 15 For an affordable stay in Loutró, this prettily decorated, modest guesthouse is one of the best choices. It has its own taverna and bar, and most of the rooms have balconies looking out over the bay and the White Mountains. Particularly handy as an overnight stop. Closed Nov–Mar.

MAKRYGIALOS Aspros Potamos

Aspros Potamós, 72055 Tel 28430 51694 Fax 28430 52292 Rooms 17 Delightful, simple stone cottages with solar-powered electricity and stone fireplaces in the picturesque gorge of the Aspros Potamós, just inland from Makrýgialos Beach. Basic self-catering facilities, but plenty of restaurants and tavernas nearby. This is the perfect place for a peaceful holiday. www.asprospotamos.com

MAKRYGIALOS White River Cottages

Aspros Potamós, 72055 Tel 28430 51120 Fax 28430 51120 Rooms 17 A 15-minute walk from the beach, bars and restaurants of Makrýgialos, this village of little stone houses surrounds a small swimming pool and is in turn surrounded by olive groves, pines and rugged hillsides. Simple, stylish and peaceful, with self-catering facilities. Closed Nov–Mar. [email protected]

MALIA Malia Studios

Stalida Coastal Road, 70007 Tel 28970 31655 Fax 28102 13378 Rooms 9 Small, comfortable self-catering hotel with a mix of studios, one-bedroom apartments and larger split-level apartments, all with kitchenette. The hotel also has a snack bar and there is a mini market nearby. Close to the nightlife and watersports of Mália and 150 metres (492 ft) away from the beach. Closed Nov–Mar. www.malistudioshotel.com

PALAIOCHORA Hotel Rea

Antoníou Peraki, 73001 Tel 28230 41307 Fax 28230 41605 Rooms 14 Small, friendly, family-run hotel in the centre of peaceful Palaiochóra, about a five-minute walk from the village’s long, sandy beach. Breakfast and cold drinks are served on a shady, flower-decked terrace. This is an unpretentious little place offering good value for money. Closed Nov–Mar.

RETHYMNO Mythos Suites Hotel

Plateía Karáoli 12, 74100 Tel 28310 53917 Fax 28310 51036 Rooms 15 The most tranquil little haven in Réthymno, hidden away in a tiny back alley. The friendly and helpful owners have converted several old buildings into a delightful hotel, with cool, stylishly-furnished bedrooms set around a pretty courtyard and small pool – just big enough for an afternoon dip. Closed mid-Nov–mid-Mar. www.mythos-crete.gr

RETHYMNO Palazzino di Corina

Dambergi 7–9, 74100 Tel 28310 21205 Fax 28310 21204 Rooms 21 An excellent recent addition to Réthymno’s hotel portfolio. Inside the converted Venetian building are stylish, airconditioned suites – some of which are split-level – and most of which have their own balconies. Public areas are graced by stone arches, columns and antique furniture. There is a courtyard with a pool. www.corina.gr

RETHYMNO Palazzo Vecchio

Iroon Polytechníou/Melissinou, 74100 Tel 28310 35351 Fax 28310 25479 Rooms 23 New meets old in this 15th-century townhouse which has been converted into a stylishly grand modern hotel with inroom facilities including satellite TV, mini-kitchen and full-sized bathrooms (a rarity in most historic hotels in Réthymno). Pleasant courtyard bar with fountain, attentive service, central location. Closed Nov–Mar. www.palazzovecchio.gr

RETHYMNO Avli Suites Hotel

Xanthoudidou 22, 74100 Tel 28250 32690 Fax 28250 32693 Rooms 7 Seven colour-themed suites in an old Venetian mansion, above a good restaurant. The hotel opened in 2005 and the rooms have modern facilities including satellite TV and internet access. There are great views from the roof terrace, which also has a whirlpool big enough for ten people. Closed Nov–Mar.

SPILI Green Hotel

Spíli, 74100 Tel 28320 22225 Fax 28320 22225 Rooms 11 This small, simple hotel, in the centre of Spili, offers basic twin-bedded rooms with en-suite shower and WC, and balconies that overlook the main square of the village. In summer, the hotel is made colourful by huge tubs of geraniums. Services include sauna, massage and aromatherapy. Closed Nov–Mar. [email protected]

SPILI Villa Panorama

Agia Paraskeví, Kerames, 74053 Tel 21080 49602 Fax 21080 49602 Rooms 5 in 2 apartments This sturdy stone house has sweeping views over the Libyan Sea from its perch high above the south coast of Crete. Each apartment has a large living room, fully-equipped kitchen (with washing machine), and simply decorated bedrooms. There are shops and tavernas nearby at Spíli, Agia Fotiá or Kerames. www.villapanorama-crete.gr

STALIDA Villa Anna

PO Box 29, Stalída, 70014 Tel 28970 31506 Fax 28970 31985 Rooms 16 This small apartment complex offers excellent value for money, with a large pool and in-room facilities including mini-bar, safe and refrigerator. There is a snack bar, pool bar and breakfast room, and some rooms have sea or mountain views while others overlook the pool and garden. Closed mid-Oct–Apr. www.villamary-anna.gr

VLATOS Milia Traditional Settlement

Vlátos, 73012 Tel 28220 46774 Fax 28220 51569 Rooms 14 Perched high in the mountains of Crete’s wild west, this village of traditional stone cottages is a comfortable place to stay, with simple rooms featuring stone floors and old wood furniture. The restaurant serves great traditional food and local wine. The surrounding scenery is stunning. www.milia.gr

ATHENS AIRPORT Sofitel Athens Airport

Eleftheríos Venizélos International Airport, 19019 Tel 21035 44000 Fax 20135 Rooms 350 The most convenient overnight stop for those flying in late or leaving early, and used mainly by business travellers. Facilities include indoor pool, gym, restaurants, a bar, and business centre. All rooms have internet connection. Good value for money for leisure travellers too. Three non-smoking floors. www.sofitel.com

EKALI Life Gallery

Thisseos 103, 14565 Tel 21062 60400 Fax 21062 29353 Rooms 30 This ultra-stylish boutique hotel in Ekali, northwest of the centre, is a member of the Small Luxury Hotels consortium. Its rooms and suites have been individually designed and all have state of the art facilities. The hotel also has two pools and boasts a very good restaurant. Book well in advance. www.slh.com

KIFISSIA Kefalari Suites

Pendelis 1, 14562 Tel 21062 33333 Fax 21062 33330 Rooms 13 Quirky, colourful and luxurious, with themed suites in an eccentric 19th-century mansion. Suites have mini-kitchens, luxury bathrooms, and modern facilities including wireless internet connection. Most have their own balcony or veranda. The shared rooftop terrace features a whirlpool tub. www.kefalarisuites.gr

KIFISSIA Pentelikon

Deligiannis 66, 14562 Tel 21062 30650 Fax 21080 10314 Rooms 44 An opulent hotel in a grand Neo-Classical palace in fashionable Kefalari, on the outskirts of Kifissiá. Room facilities include PC and fax modem, internet access, satellite TV and mini-bar. The hotel is set in luxurious gardens and boasts one of Greece’s few Michelin-starred restaurants, Vardis. www.pentelikon.gr

KOLONAKI Saint George Lycabettus

Kleomenous 2, 10675 Tel 21072 90711 Fax 21072 90439 Rooms 162 This excellent hotel is a well-kept secret and can be good value for money in off-peak season. Located beneath Lykavittós Hill at the top end of Kolonáki, its rooftop pool terrace has super views, as does Le Grand Balcon restaurant. The service here is old-fashioned and attentive. The main sights are within walking distance. Key to Price Guide see p302 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

LAGONISSI Grand Resort Lagonissi

Kilometre 40, Athens-Soúnio Highway, 19010 Tel 22910 76000 Fax 22910 24514 Rooms 230 The grounds of this luxurious resort cover more than 120 acres of beach and gardens and offer a choice of rooms, suites with private beach decks and villas with heated pools. Facilities include whirlpool spas, DVD players and nine restaurants and bars. Limousine, yacht and executive jet charter service available. Closed Nov–Mar. www.grandresort.gr

OMONIA Amaryllis

Veranzerou 45/Septembríou 3, 10432 Tel 21052 38783 Fax 21052 25954 Rooms 57 This C-class city hotel is a real bargain for those on a short stay in Athens. Rooms have modern facilities including TV and direct dial phone, and all have a balcony. Luggage storage facilities also available. There is a small bar and breakfast room. Close to metro stations for connections to Piraeus. www.holidaycityeurope.com/amaryllis-athens

PLAKA Acropolis View

Webster 10, 11742 Tel 21092 17303 Fax 21092 30705 Rooms 32 Comfortable hotel conveniently close to the Acropolis and Pláka, but far enough away to escape most of the late night noise. Some rooms have a view of the Acroplis, most have balconies and there is a roof garden. Affordable and competently managed.

PLAKA Parthenon

Makri 6, 11742 Tel 21092 34594 Fax 21092 35797 Rooms 79 Close to the Acropolis metro station, this is one of the best-value and most convenient hotels in the heart of Athens. Rooms have satellite TV, minibar, trouser press, internet connection and tea and coffee-making facilities. There is a bar and restaurant, but is also close to many cafés, bars and tavernas in the area.

PLAKA Acropolis House

Kodrou 6–8, 10558 Tel 21032 227237 Fax 21032 44143 Rooms 19 This venerable pension has painted ceilings and lots of atmosphere to make up for its slightly old-fashioned facilities. It also has an excellent location for those who want to be in the heart of Pláka with its many bars and tavernas. Good value and very popular – booking essential.

PLAKA Art Gallery

Erechthiou 5, 11742 Tel 21092 38376 Fax 21092 33025 Rooms 22 Affordable, friendly, family-run pension on a quiet street within easy walking distance of the Acropolis and Pláka. Some rooms have balconies from which you can see the Parthenon and public areas are decorated with original paintings. Single, twin and triple rooms available. Helpful, Greek-Canadian management.

PLAKA Magna Grecia

Mitropoleos 54, 10563 Tel 21032 40314 Fax 21032 40317 Rooms 10 Remarkably good value for a four-star boutique hotel, and in an excellent location for a few days exploring the sights of Athens. Simply furnished and attractively decorated in neutral colours. Wooden floors add a homely touch, as do the original paintings that adorn each room. 24-hour reception and room service. www.magnagreciahotel.com

PLAKA Central Hotel

Apóllonos 21, 10557 Tel 21032 34537 Fax 21032 25244 Rooms 80 One of the capital’s more affordable yet stylish places to stay with glass and marble interior and designer touches. There is a roof terrace with whirlpool and bar and great views of the Acropolis. The rooms at the back of the hotel also have Acropolis views. Upper-floor rooms are quieter. www.centralhotel.gr

PSYRRI Arion

Agíou Dimitríou 18, 10554 Tel 21032 22707 Fax 21032 22412 Rooms 50 Stylish, friendly and affordable hotel in fashionable Psyrrí, with cleanly-designed rooms, en-suite bathrooms and roof terrace. The front-facing rooms on the upper floors have Acropolis views and are the most sought-after. There are also good views of the Acropolis from the rooftop bar. www.arionhotel.gr

SYNTAGMA Athens Hilton

Vas. Sofías 46, 11528 Tel 21072 81000 Fax 21072 81111 Rooms 527 Renovated in time for the 2004 Olympics, the Hilton has two large swimming pools, several restaurants and a location opposite the National Art Gallery. Full 24-hour service and stunning views of the Acropolis or Lykavittós from the upper floor rooms and from the rooftop Galaxy bar. www.hilton.co.uk

SYNTAGMA Grande Bretagne

Plateía Syntágma, 10563 Tel 21033 30000 Fax 21033 28034 Rooms 322 This grand, old hotel is located opposite the Parliament building on Syntágma and boasts a Neo-Classical façade, public areas and rooms furnished with fine antiques, and lots of marble, gilt and polished wood. There are indoor and outdoor pools, a spa and fine dining. Rooftop garden with magnificent views. www.grandebretagne.gr

VOULIAGMENI The Margi

Litous 11, 16671 Tel 21089 29000 Fax 21089 Rooms 88 Perfectly poised between the sights of central Athens and the stylish Vouliagméni seaside, this hotel exudes style and character. The bedrooms are light and airy, with opulent marble bathrooms, the best have lovely views of the Saronic Gulf. All have internet access, satellite TV, and mini-bar. Excellent restaurant. www.themargi.gr

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Outside diners at a taverna in Plakiás, Crete

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

Artemónas restaurant (see p338) on the island of Sífnos

!

WINE *')4#2'8#4+'6+'56*#6 #$170&+04''%'61&#; 241&7%'9+0'56*#6#4'37+6' &+56+0%6(41/6*15'1("'56'40 7412'19'8'44'56#74#6'745 #4'10.;019.'#40+0)61.11- #(6'4$166.'&9+0'5(6*'9+0' .+56%106#+056*'$'66'49+0'5 57%*#56+/#'4-1B4+'/A.+ 14 641(+.+@6*'24124+'614 241$#$.;-0195*1961.11- #(6'46*'/#0&+69+..$'5#(' 6114&'4#/14'':2'0 A waterside restaurant at Skála Sykaminiás, Lésvos 5+8'$166.'14#.+66.' FAST FOOD AND SNACKS (+4/5'5#/' .'55)11&8#.7'$166.'5 +0%.7&'6*'0#6+10#..; %18'4'&145.+)*6.;59''6 !+5+6145%#0$'(14)+8'0 -0190#/$@5#0& 41..5+04+0)51455*#2'514 (146*+0-+0)4''-50'8'4 176@4+9+0'5 2170&%#-'5(+..'&9+6* 5612'#6+0)(146*'4'5''/61 64#&+6+10#.*1/'/#&',#/ 4#&+6+10#.4'56#7 $'50#%-$#4510'8'4;564''6 .5'9*'4'#0&+0/#0; 4#065#0&6#8'40#5 6174+56%#(A56*+5*#5$''0 /#;10.;561%-%#4#(' #0&8'0&1455'..+0)59''65 076541..55'#510#.%140#0& 4'2.#%'&$;#.#4)'%721( 9+0'9*+%*+55'48'& $4'9'&%1((''#0&4'0%* 564#+)*6(41/6*' %*'560765#6'8'4;6740 56;.'%41+55#06514 .6*17)* /'4+%#0 $#44'.#0&+5#.9#;5 56;.'(#56(11&176.'65 &'.+%+175$4+1%*'56;.' +0':2'05+8'#4#(' Wine from &1/+0#6'6174+56 41..574+0)57//'4 9+0'5#4'1(6'01( Límnos 51/' 9+..56+.. 6*'4')+10#0&6*' %'064'5+6+5'#5;61 #81+&6*'/$;64;+0) 5'48'(4'5*(+)56*+%- 4''-415A+02#4 6*'64#&+6+10#.4''- ;1)*746270)'06*10'; 6+%7.#4+5016'&(14*#8+0)#0 70757#.$762.'#5+0)(.#8174 '#6'4+'5 4;6*'(11& Baklavás, a sweet #0&5.+)*6.;59''6 cake of wheat, 1(6*'':64'/'.; %744#06$4'#&#59'.. honey and nuts %*'#2 #5#8#4+'6;1(0).+5* HOW TO PAY 9*+%*1(('45#/156.; #0&%106+0'06#.$4'#- 6#-'#9#;5'48+%'1( (#56561%#6'4(148+5+61456#56'5 4''%'+58'4;/7%*#%#5* 51%+'6;(;170''&612#;$; %*70-51(/'#6 RESERVATIONS %4'&+6%#4&%*'%-(+4566*#66*' (+5*148')'6#$.'5)4+..'& 4'56#74#066#-'5;174%4'&+6 $41+.'&1441#56'&10# .6*17)*+5.#0&4'56#74#065 %#4&>/#0;24124+'6145&1 5-'9'4>9+6*(4'5*$4'#& *' 5'48'5 > )'0'4#..;*#8'#%#57#. 016#%%'266*'9*1.'4#0)' /'#6(41/#4'81.8+0)52+6+0 #6/152*'4'6*';%#01( #./1560'8'46#-' #2+66#$4'#&21%-'6*' %1745'$'8'4;2127.#4 +( %4'&+6%#4&5#0&%#(A$#45 (11&+551.&= ?+06*' +6+52155+$.'61/#-'#4'5'4 8'4;4#4'.;&1#.6*17)*/#0; 8#6+10+6+5241$#$.;$'5661 9+..$'*#22;616#-'64#8'. *#0&14616#-'#9#; #0;$#-'4+'55'..5#8174; &151.51+6+5.1%#.24#%6+%' .'45%*'37'517064;4'5 2+'5#0�#44#;1((.#8174(7. 618+5+66*'4'56#74#0614 6#74#0656#8'40#5 $4'#&41..5#0&+0$75;#4'#5 6#8'40#'#4.+'4+06*'&#; #0&$#459+..10.;#%%'26%#5* ;179+..#.9#;5$'#$.'61 61%*'%-106*'&+5*'561$' *'4'56#74#06.+56+0)5+0 6*+5)7+&'102#)'5

> (+0&#%#(A5'48+0)57$56#06+#. 5'48'& *'24124+'6149+.. +0&+%#6'9*'6*'414016 6*'06#-';17414&'4#0& 50#%-5#0&5#.#&5 %4'&+6%#4&5#4'#%%'26' 4'5'48'#0;52'%+#.&+5*6*#6 (;17*#8'#59''66116* ;179+...18'6*' ;174'37'56 '#%*'56#$.+5*/'06 .+6'4#..;=5*121(6*' 57)#45%7.2614?*'$#-'4 24'2#4'564#&+6+10#.59''6 $4'#&56+0;59''62#564+'5 #0 *1.'8#4+'6;1( (4#)4#06*10';%#-'5 BREAKFAST 144''-56*+5+56*'.'#56 +/2146#06/'#.1(6*'&#; 064#&+6+10#.*1/'5#0& #5/#..%721(4''- %1((''#%%1/2#0+'5 5.+%'51($4'#&475-514

Kástro’s bar (see p337) in the town of Mýkonos

"

6*'/5'.8'5%#0*#8'70'8'0 2#8'/'0655+&'9#.-5106*' +5.#0&5#0&/#0;4'56#74#065 *#8'0#4419&1149#;5#0& 56'25*'4'#4'5'8'4#.14)#0+ <#6+105(14#55+56+0)&+5#$.'& 8#%#6+10'45#0&6*15'.+56'& 102#)'5 #0& 2418+&' 52'%+(+%+0(14/#6+10(148+5+6145 64#8'..+0)616*'4''-+5.#0&5 VEGETARIAN FOOD 4''-%7+5+0'2418+&'5 2.'06;1(%*1+%'(148')' 6#4+#054''-5'0,1;#8#4+'6; 1(&+5*'5(14'#%*%1745'51 Views of the Acropolis from the marble roof terrace of Pil Poul (see p341) +6+5'#5;6114&'4,7568')'6#$.' SERVICE AND TIPPING CHILDREN &+5*'5+0#0;64#&+6+10#. 4'56#74#0656#8'40#514 4''-56#-'2.'06;1(6+/' *+.&4'0$'%1/'4'56#74#06 4''-8')'6#$.' 9*'06*';'#6176#0&':2'%6 #0&6#8'40#*#$+67A5#6# &+5*'5#4'57$56#06+#.+0':2'0 #*+)*.'8'.1(#66'06+10*+5 8'4;'#4.;#)'+04''%'>+6+5 5+8'#0&8'4;5#6+5(;+0) 57#..;6*';#4'24'2#4'&+0 /'#05#)4'#6&'#.1(4700+0) #0'55'06+#.2#461(6*'+4'&7%# 6+10105'37'06.;%*+.&4'0 +/#)+0#6+8'9#;561%1/2.' #4170&106*'2#461(6*' /'0614'0*#0%'6*'+4(.#8174 #4'9'.%1/''8'4;9*'4'+0 9#+6'4$76+04'67406*'; 4''%'':%'266*'&4+0-+0) !')#05/#;*#8'#.+66.' 4'%'+8')11&6+25> 2'4 /14'&+((+%7.6;$76#54''- $#450(14/#.4'56#74#065 %'06+(6*'5'48+%'*#5$''0 %11-+0)4'.+'58'4;.+66.'10 %*+.&4'0#4'':2'% '52'%+#..;#66'06+8' 6'&61$'9'.. 6*17)*/14' &#+4;241&7%65+6+52155+$.' $'*#8'&$76+0 61(1..19#8')#0&+'610#0; 1(6'0#6+2+5 57//'49*'0 1(6*'4''-+5.#0&5 #$176 2'4 6*'4''-5'0,1; %'064+%'5+0 PICNICS .10)*1745'#6+0) 64#&+6+10#. 1765+&'+6+52'4('%6.; '56#$.+5*/'065&1 *'$'566+/'612+%0+%+0 #%%'26#$.'(146*' +0%.7&'5'48+%'$76 6*'9#+6'4556+.. Basket of local bread %*+.&4'0612.#;#0& 4''%'+5+0524+0)9*'06*' from Rhodes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�&1.+8'5 /1-+0)+5%1//102.#%'+0 #4'6*'+&'#.$'#%*50#%-5 DRESS CODE 4''%'#0&706+.4'%'06.; '56#$.+5*/'065/#+06#+0+0)# *'4''-5&4'5537+6'(14 015/1-+0)21.+%;*#8'$''0 /#..;9*'0&+0+0)176 &+((+%7.661(+0&19'8'40'9 !+5+61455*17.&9'#49*#6'8'4 4')7.#6+105/#-'+61$.+)# 614;(14#..4'56#74#06561*#8' +5%1/(146#$.'$765-+/2; 015/1-+0)#4'#5024#%6+%' 6125#0&5*1465#0&#%6+8' 5214659'#4#4'757#..;10.; 1(%1745'%*#0)'+55.19$76 (14#6.'#56*#.(6*';'#4;17 #%%'26#$.'0'#46*'$'#%*> 6*17)*/1566174+56'56#$.+5* %#0#.9#;5&+0'176&1145 /'0654#4'.;6740#9#;%7561/ WHEELCHAIR ACCESS 1/'*16'.4'56#74#065*#8' 21.+%+'54'37'56+0)(14/#. &4'55 +06*'.+56+0)59' 0%17064;#4'#59*'4' +0&+%#6'9*+%*4'56#74#065 411/+52.'06+(7.6*'4' (#..+0616*+5%#6')14; #4'('9241$.'/5(149*''. 057//'4+(;17&+0'176 %*#+475'4576+0%419&'& 5+&'6#-'#,#%-'61459'#6'4 6174+564'56#74#065#%%'55+5 People drinking coffee at the Liston 1(6'04'564+%6'&*'564''65 (14.#6'4+06*''8'0+0) in Corfu town

(%!.#)%.42%%+32%'!2$%$#//+).'!3"/4(!3#)%.#%!.$ !.!24;%6%.!4/0)#&/20(),/3/0(9./54/&4(%7!90,!#%3 /.4(%-!).,!.$!.$/.4(%-/2%&!2&,5.')3,!.$39/5 7),,34),,&).$$)3(%3).'2%$)%.43!.$#5,).!29349,%3 5.4/5#(%$"94)-%,3%7(%2%2%%+#//+%29 (!3"%%.-5#().&,5%.#%$"94(%44/-!. -0)2%7)4()4330)#%$-%!4$)3(%3!.$&),,%$ 0!342)%3!.$6%'%4!",%3.4(%2%#%.40!342%%+ #5)3).%7!3/&4%.4(/5'(4/&!30%!3!.4&//$/$!9)4 )34(!46%293)-0,)#)49!.$)432%,)!.#%/.3%!3/.!,,/#!, Oregano and thyme 02/$5#%4(!4-!+%32%%+&//$3/0/05,!27)4(6)3)4/23 6!2)%$!34(%4%22!).&)3( &2/-4(%3%!!.$&2/-4(% -/5.4!).33(%%0'/!4!.$ '!-%2/-4(%(),,3#/-% 3%6%2!,6!2)%4)%3/&#(%%3% /,)6%3!.$(/.%9 CENTRAL AND NORTHERN GREECE

Island fisherman returning to harbour with the day’s catch

!).,!.$2%%#%7)4()43 ,/.'!.$#(%15%2%$()34/29 )3!0,!#%7(%2%2%')/.!, &//$"/5.$!2)%3!2%",522%$ !.$!6!2)%49/&#//+).' 42!$)4)/.3#/%8)34(%-%!4 Mussels

ATHENS AND THE PELOPONNESE (%#!0)4!,)3%33%.4)!,,9! #)49/&)--)'2!.43&2/-4(% #/5.4293)$%4(%)3,!.$3!.$ 4(%3(/2%3/&4(%%!34%2. %$)4%22!.%!. (!4$)6%23)49 )32%&,%#4%$).)43-!2+%43 !.$)43#5)3).%42%%4&//$ )3!15).4%33%.4)!,0!24/&

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Octopus

Sardines

!.$&25)4$)3(%3/&(%33!,/ .>+)3(/7!%7)3().&,5%.#% 4(%30)#%33!53!'%3!.$ /6%.#//+).'/&/<..).! 34%-&2/-44/-!.4)-%3 7(),%!,/6%/&3(%%03 #(%%3%0)%3!.$/&&!,#!-% 4/=43/6/!.$4(%0)253 -/5.4!).37)4(4(%,!#( 3(%0(%2$3 (%30)#9&//$ /&4(%/24()34(%,%'!#9/& 4(% 2%%+)--)'2!.43 &2/- 3)!)./27(),%4(% !,+!.).&,5%.#%)3/"6)/53 ).4(%53%/&0)#+,%37!,.543 !.$9/'524 Sea bass

Prawns

Crayfish Red mullet Clams

Selection of seafood from the clear waters of Greece

REGIONAL DISHES AND SPECIALITIES 7%%4335#(!3./5'!4"#*(/.%93%3!-% #!.$9 $-9%!34$/5'(.543).39250 !.$ %)"(!,6!/237%%4-%!43(!6% "%%.!0!24/&2%%+342%%4,)&%3).#%4(% $!93/& 2)34/4,% (%9!2%3/,$). 3-!,,3(/03/234!,,3+##"/20)%3 !2%!30%#)!,)49/&4(%7%34%2. 0)2532%')/.),,).'32!.'%&2/- '!-%/2/&&!,4/#(%%3%!.$6%'% 4!",%3/&4%.#/-").%$7)4(2)#%/2 Olives 0!34! %&,%#4).')$$,%!34%2. ).&,5%.#%3 $#($)!30%#)!,)49/&./24(%2.(2!#% !.$!#%$/.)!!2%-%!40!44)%3&,!6/52%$7)4(#/2)!.$%2 Fakés""$!" 0%00%2!.$#5-).!,!#,4(%#,!33)#$)3(/& "$!#" ).,!.$2%4%6),,!'%3)34()#+0/2+#54,%43"!+%$5.4), $!&%! 4%.$%27(),%.#'!+)3!35--%2(*"$%33%24/2 ##"!"% 3.!#+/&&2%3(&)'37)4((#.!#(%%3%-!$%&2/-7(%9

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Produce on sale in a typical Greek market

THE ISLANDS

FISH AND SEAFOOD

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Spetzofáï !#!

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Bread being baked in an outdoor communal oven

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Chickpea (garbanzo) purée Aubergine (eggplant) purée Vine leaves stuffed with rice

Stuffed baked aubergines (eggplant)

Choriátiki saláta

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Taramosaláta Melitzánes imám baïldí Typical selection of mezédes

Meat is more readily available on the mainland than on the islands Moussaka (minced lamb and aubergine baked in layers) Vegetables and salads often use wild produce Fried aubergines (eggplant) and courgettes (zucchini)

Keftédes " ! " !

Artichokes with potatoes, dill, lemon and oil Asparagus salad Desserts are simple affairs of pastry, fruit or yogurt. Fresh fruit Figs baked in sweet, spiced Mavrodaphne wine with orange-flower water

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PRICE CATEGORIES Price categories are for a threecourse meal for one, including a half-bottle of house wine, tax and service. Under 12 euros 12–18 euros 18–24 euros 24–32 euros over 32 euros

THE IONIAN ISLANDS CORFU Rouvas

St. Desillas 13, Corfu Town Tel 26610 31182 One of the most affordable traditional eating places in Corfu Town, with a well-established reputation for some of the best Greek, Corfiot and international dishes. Located in the centre of town, near the main produce market, so the ingredients are usually very fresh. Closed dinner; Sun.

CORFU Nikolas

Agni Tel 26630 91243 Located on a quiet, pebbly beach at Agni, 2 km (1 mile) west of Kalámi, Nikolas serves traditional Greek cuisine such as moussakás, grilled meats, grilled fish and a variety of salads. Catering to a mainly Greek clientele, it is a pleasant place for a protracted lunch or a leisurely dinner. Closed Oct–Apr.

CORFU Rex

Kapodistriou 66, Corfu Town Tel 26610 39649 Housed in a mid-19th-century building, one block behind the arcades and cafés of the Spianádha, the Rex is a Corfu institution – a truly traditional Greek restaurant serving genuine Corfiot food. Specialities include swordfish bourthéto, a spicy fish stew with tomatoes, peppers and potatoes. Good, attentive service.

CORFU Eu-Lounge Café

Kapodistriou 32, Corfu Town Tel 26610 80670 Stylish, modern café-restaurant with tables indoors and out. The menu is Mediterranean-international, with a good choice of pasta dishes, appetisers and salads, and the wine list is extensive. An ideal spot for lunch or snacks on a visit to Corfu Town, or for an evening out in smart surroundings.

ITHACA Kantoúni

Limáni Tel 26740 32918 A simple taverna serving a reasonable selection of oven-cooked standard meals, along with a small selection of grilled meat dishes and the usual salads, tzatzíki and other trimmings. Close to the ferry pier and ideal for a meal or a snack while you await your boat to Kefalloniá or the mainland. Closed Oct–Apr.

KEFALLONIA Patsouras

Ioannou Metaxas 40, Argostóli Tel 26710 22779 Surprisingly cheap taverna in the centre of Kefalloniá’s island capital. Patsouras is family-run, and its menu includes all the traditional taverna favourites plus Kefallonian island specialties such as kreatópita (meat pie) and krasáto (pork in wine sauce). Enjoy lunch or dinner in a pleasant garden setting.

KEFALLONIA Platanos

Asos Tel 26740 51381 This small taverna is located – as its name suggests – beneath a plane tree in the centre of the pretty, unspoilt fishing village of Asos. Affordable, simple oven-cooked dishes, grilled meats, and salads. If you are staying in Asos, you will probably eat here more than once. Closed Oct–May.

KEFALLONIA Tassia

Limáni Fiskardou Tel 26740 41205 This internationally-acclaimed restaurant sits right on the harbour and features a good wine list which emphasizes some of Kefallonià’s own vintages, recognised as among the best in Greece. The menu includes fine seafood, simply but well-prepared, as well as pasta dishes, salads, appetizers, and desserts. Closed Oct–Apr.

LEFKADA Sto Molo

Golemi 12, Lefkáda town Tel 26450 24879 An attractive mezedopoleío serving an imaginative array of typical small dishes – fish, meat, sausage, cheese, fruit and vegetables – from which you can construct a light snack or settle down for a few hours of sampling, accompanied by ouzo, beer or wine from the cask. Key to Symbols see back cover flap

PAXOS Taka Taka

Gáïos Tel 26620 32329 A straightforward grill restaurant serving unpretentious meals – mainly fish, but also chicken, lamb, pork chops and beef rissoles, along with salads and a few oven-cooked vegetable dishes. Taka Taka is a long-standing favourite with the locals who come to dine in the delightful, vine-covered garden. Closed lunch; Oct–Jun.

PAXOS Nassos

Longós Tel 26620 31604 Located on the main square, this is one of the best places to eat in Longós. The menu usually features octopus (grilled as an appetizer or stewed with wine and onions) along with other seafood dishes, souvláki and other grilled meat dishes. Alternative options include casseroles, salads and pasta dishes. Closed lunch; Oct–Apr.

ZAKYNTHOS Zakanthi

Kalamáki Tel 26950 43586 This lively restaurant and bar is a good place to spend the evening whether you are looking for a light snack with drinks or something more substantial. The menu is eclectic, with a reasonable selection of Greek favourites along with pasta, pizza, burgers and other international dishes. Closed lunch; Oct–May.

THE ARGO-SARONIC ISLANDS AIGINA Agora

Fish market, Aígina Town Tel 22970 27308 This excellent, old-fashioned fish taverna has been in business for more the 40 years and is undoubtedly the best in town. No fancy dishes, but very fresh seafood – the menu depends on what the boats have brought in that day. Wine is from the barrel. Well worth making an excursion to.

AIGINA Antonis

Pérdikas Tel 22970 61443 Popular with Athenian weekend visitors – and justifiably so – Antonis is the best and the most expensive of several fish restaurants on the waterfront of Aígina’s most picturesque village. The fish is always fresh and is beautifully prepared and presented. Anyone staying on Aígina should eat here at least once.

KYTHIRA To Korali

Avlémonas Tel 27360 34173 This little eating place at Avlémonas, 26 km (15 miles) from Chóra, is everything an island fish taverna should be – tiny, welcoming, with rickety outdoor tables, affordable prices and a choice of fresh grilled seafood and oven-baked taverna dishes, as well as salads and wine from the barrel. An ideal spot for lunch or dinner. Closed Oct–Apr.

KYTHIRA Taverna Magos

Kapsáli Tel 27360 33722 This traditional taverna, in the pretty harbour village of Kapsáli, is deservedly popular with people from all over the island, as well as summer visitors. Offerings include freshly-caught seafood and a decent choice of vegetable dishes. Get there early in the evening if you want a table in July or August. Closed Nov–Feb.

POROS O Karavolos

Behind the cinema, Póros Town Tel 22980 26158 A traditional, family-run taverna offering typical Greek island cooking and fresh fish at excellent prices. More unusual menu items include snails, for which the restaurant is famous and from which it takes its name. These are much smaller than French escargots, and available only when in season. Closed lunch.

POROS Kathestos

Póros Town Tel 22980 24770 On the esplanade, Kathestos has good views from its outside tables and serves typical taverna dishes from the oven and a selection of seafood, some of it fresh off the boat. Good grills include chicken, lamb and pork chops; other offerings include salad and stuffed vegetable dishes. Prices are very affordable by Póros Town standards.

SPETSES Exedra

Palió Limáni, Spétses Town Tel 22980 73497 Situated on the waterfront, this traditional Greek taverna offers good local dishes such as shrimps saganáki and fish à la spetsiota (oven-baked with garlic and tomato sauce). Good value for money although the fish dishes do push the price up. Closed Nov–Feb.

YDRA Porphyra

Ydra Town Tel 22980 53660 One of the cheaper places to eat in Ydra, Porphyra has a straightforward Greek menu with all the usual favourites – grilled meat and seafood, oven-cooked pastítsio and moussakás. Also features a few representative international dishes such as spaghetti. A reasonably-priced choice for lunch or dinner. Closed Oct–Apr.

YDRA Kondylenia

Ydra Town Tel 22980 53520 One of this restaurant’s biggest selling points is its panoramic view across the Gulf to the mountains of the Peloponnese. The menu lives up to the view, with interesting recipes such as spinach, squid and prawn casserole as well as good fresh fish from the grill. A reasonable if not outstanding choice of wines. Closed Oct–Mar.

THE SPORADES AND EVVOIA ALONISSOS Bambis

Patitíri Tel 24240 66184 This small taverna on the outskirts of Patitíri village has sweeping views of the olive groves and wooded hillsides of Alónissos and across to nearby islands. The menu is traditional Greek taverna cooking at its best, with a leavening of grilled meat and fish dishes as well as a daily choice of hearty oven-cooked dishes. Closed lunch; Oct–May.

EVVOIA Kavo d’Oro

Parodos Sachtouri, Kárystos Tel 22240 22326 Simple and inexpensive old-fashioned taverna which serves good home cooking – most of the meals on offer are very hearty and filling. Rich vegetable and meat stews made with local olive oil, stuffed vine leaves and papoutsákia (baked aubergines with cheese, onion and tomato) are all worth sampling. Closed Oct–Feb.

EVVOIA Gkoúveris

Leofóros Mpoudoúri 20, Chalkída This traditional taverna enjoys a prime location right on the waterfront. The menu features all the mainstays of Greek cuisine as well as fresh fish such as sea bream and mackerel which are cooked on the outdoor grill. Salads, vegetables dishes and a good selection of local wines.

EVVOIA Skýros

Harbourfront, Kými Tel 22220 22624 A seafront setting and friendly service characterize this excellent taverna. Local grilled shrimps, octopus and wholefried baby barboúnia (red mullet) are on offer as well as oven-baked taverna dishes and salads. Choice of outdoor tables or seating in the air-conditioned interior. Local wines and live entertainment. Closed Nov–May.

SKIATHOS Windmill

Kotroni Hill, Skiáthos Town Tel 24270 24550 This charming restaurant is housed in an old windmill, up on a hill and with wonderful views over the harbour and Skiáthos Town. Customers dine on a lovely stepped terrace with traditional wooden chairs and tables. The menu here offers mainly international cuisine. Closed lunch; Oct–Apr

SKIATHOS Anemos

Old harbour front, Skiáthos Town Tel 24270 21003 Archetypal waterside eating place with views of the old harbour, the Bourtzi fortress islet, and the bay. Despite its old-fashioned appearance, the menu is modern and influenced by other Mediterranean cuisines, but most visitors still opt for the grilled fish dishes, which are excellent if on the expensive side. Closed lunch; Nov–Apr.

SKIATHOS Karnagio

Paraliaki, Skiáthos Town Tel 24270 22868 Karnagio is regularly commended as Skiáthos’s most outstanding restaurant, attracting a summer clientele that includes the occasional visiting celebrity. Wide choice of traditional Greek dishes, all very well prepared, and some of the best seafood around. Closed lunch; Oct–May.

SKOPELOS Molos

Limáni Skópelou Tel 24240 22551 This small taverna, situated beside the pier in Skópelos Town, serves fresh fish and good salads. The more unusual dishes include oven-cooked prawns with oregano. Attractive sea views from the outdoor tables and prices that are pleasantly modest. Closed Nov–Jan.

SKOPELOS Perivóli

Skópelos Town Tel 24240 23758 In the centre of town, Perivóli is a lively little restaurant-bar serving drinks, light snacks and full meals. Cooking combines local and international influences, and the wine list is extensive, with some examples of the better new-style Greek wines. No retsina from the barrel here. Closed lunch; Oct–May.

SKYROS O Liakos

Machairas, Skýros Town Tel 22220 93509 This roof garden taverna, with fantastic views over picturesque Skýros Town, serves traditional Greek dishes with imaginative touches. Specialities include tomatá keftedes (tomato fritters) and homemade cheese pies. The best time to go is early evening for sunset views and pre-dinner drinks. Key to Price Guide see p330 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

THE NORTHEAST AEGEAN ISLANDS CHIOS Chotsas

Georghiou Kondyis 3, Chíos Town Tel 22710 42787 Venerable family-run taverna with a large garden in the centre of Chíos Town. As well as the expected assortment of grilled meats, fish and oven-cooked dishes, the kitchen produces an array of vegetable dishes, dips, fritters and snacks. The proprietor makes his own wine and ouzo, both of which are on tap from the cask. Closed lunch; Sun.

CHIOS Mesaionas

Plateía Meston Tel 22710 76050 A highly recommended taverna, attractively situated in the main square of this picturesque village. Serves an interesting array of local island specialties such as aubergine pilaf as well as the usual gamut of grills and casserole dishes. A pleasant place to dine and popular with locals and visitors alike.

CHIOS Pýrgos

Kondari, 2 km (1 mile) north of Karfás Tel 22710 44740 The menu here combines Greek and international dishes, with imaginative seafood appetizers. Live traditional music most evenings in summer makes Pýrgos a good choice for a special night out. It is also conveniently located for those staying at Karfás, Chíos’s most popular beach resort area. Not cheap, nevertheless good value for money.

IKARIA Atsachas

Mesaktí, Armenistís Tel 22750 71049 Simple, family-run taverna perched on a headland between two beaches. The menu is uncomplicated, with a good choice of oven-cooked meat and vegetable dishes and a basic choice of grilled seafood (whitebait, squid, octopus, sea bass and the catch of the day). Local wine from the barrel. Closed Oct–May.

IKARIA Anna

Nas Tel 22750 71489 The best of a group of small eating places situated high above the white pebbly cove at Nas (popular with nude sunbathers). The restaurant – which also has rooms to rent – serves fish, grilled meats and oven-cooked dishes, as well as desserts, snacks and local wine. Quiet surroundings and good views. Closed Sep–May.

LESVOS Petra Women’s Agrotourism Co-operative

Pétra Village Tel 22530 41238 A visit to this sustainable tourism initiative, set up by local women, is an eye-opener for anyone who wants to know more about local food and produce. As well as the more familiar options, the cooks serve up the kind of hearty dishes that tourists rarely encounter. Strong on vegetable dishes, also sticky desserts. Closed Oct–Apr.

LESVOS Vafeios

Oikismos Vafeios, on road to Kaminia Tel 22530 71752 An extensive menu of local island dishes, reasonable prices and a lovely terrace setting with sweeping views make this a firm favourite with islanders and with holidaymakers from nearby Mólyvos. The cuisine is rich, with the emphasis on hearty oven-cooked dishes, so come with a big appetite. Closed Oct–May.

LESVOS I Skamnia

Harbourfront, Skála Sykaminiás Tel 22530 55319 Also known as I Mouria (the Mulberry Tree) this is a favourite with the locals. Sit under the shade of the eponymous tree in summer and dine on a choice of authentic seafood including sardines and anchovies from the Gulf of Plomári, squid, octopus, stuffed courgette flowers and grilled dishes.

LIMNOS O Glaros

Limáni, Mýrina Town Tel 22540 22220 This classic fish taverna on the harbour front at Mýrina overlooks a flotilla of fishing boats which deliver some of the best and freshest seafood in the Aegean. A wide range of fish from large grouper and skathari (bream) which will feed several people to whitebait, prawns, and langouste, and a good assortment of appetizers. Local wines.

SAMOS I Psarades

Agios Nikólaos, Kontakaiikia Tel 22730 32489 A wide variety of fish dishes, accompanied by a more limited selection of mezedés and salads. Food is served on an attractive terrace with views out to sea. The fish mostly comes from Karlóvasi harbour, 5 km (3 miles) east of the village, and the taverna is at its best in May, when the choice of fish is at its widest. Closed Oct–Apr.

SAMOS Marina

Waterfront, Kokkári Tel 22730 92692 In a village packed with restaurants catering almost entirely to summer tourists, Marina is one of the more authentic options, catering to local diners in low-season. The food is excellent and the menu has a wider choice of local specialities than most of its nearby rivals. Good range of vegetable and oven-cooked meat dishes. Closed Nov–Apr: Mon–Thu.

SAMOTHRAKI I Plateía

Plateía, Chóra Tel 22510 41224 Of the two restaurants on Chóra’s main square, Plateía is the better with a menu that includes imaginative dishes such as stuffed squid along with northern Aegean favourites such as mussels (farmed nearby) with saganáki cheese sauce. Views over the sea and the wooded slopes around and above the village. Closed Oct–Mar.

THASOS O Glaros

Alykí Bay Tel 25930 31547 This is the oldest of several tavernas in a pretty hamlet overlooking the sea. Fish, meat and grills, and salads can be enjoyed on a vine-shaded terrace with views across Alykí’s twin bays. A pleasant place for lunch within sight of the beach, or for dinner, with friendly service. The owners also have rooms to rent. Closed Oct–May.

THASOS Steki

Skála Potamiás Tel 25930 62312 Family-run, traditional grill-taverna which now panders mainly to the palates of visiting northern Europeans with grilled chicken, lamb, pork, fish dishes and simple omelettes and salads. Traditional dishes are also on offer, including Greek mainstays such as moussakás, stifádo and pastítsio (macaroni pie). Set in its own gardens.

THE DODECANESE ASTYPALAIA Australia

Limáni Tel 22430 61275 A typical island harbour taverna serving a plethora of Cycladic dishes, from courgette fritters to the freshest grilled fish. Justifiably popular, the taverna gets very busy on summer evenings, when it is best to book. Affordable dining and a great place to watch fishing boats come and go. Closed Nov–Apr.

CHALKI Althemenis

Nimporió, 85110 Tel 22460 31303 This popular taverna, in Chálki’s harbour village, is a reliable option with a menu that includes the usual array of seafood, grilled chicken, pork and lamb, moussakás, pastítsio (macoroni pie) and other oven-cooked dishes. Can be crowded in the evening in high season. Closed Oct–Apr.

CHALKI Liros

Nimporió, 85110 Tel 22460 31264 This cheap and cheerful family-run restaurant close to the quayside at Nimporió is an adequate choice for lunch or dinner in a location where there is little competition. The menu includes the usual Greek favourites with an attempt at some international dishes too. Pleasant location. Closed Oct–May.

KALYMNOS To Limanáki tou Vathý

Rína Tel 22430 31333 This small restaurant, standing above the quay at Rína, is a peaceful spot for lunch or dinner, serving standard taverna samplings including oven-cooked casseroles, grilled meat and grilled and fried fish. A good option, as much for its tranquil location and views as for its food and drink.

KALYMNOS Drossia

Limanáki Melitsacha, Masouri Tel 22430 48745 Beside a tiny, picturesque harbour, this fish restaurant serves up a menu of freshly caught whitebait, squid, prawns, octopus and other fishy appetizers. Main courses include swordfish, sea bass, red mullet and lobster (book a couple of days ahead). Fish dishes are grilled, and come with an assortment of dips. Local wine, ouzo and retsina.

KARPATHOS Anoisis

Diafáni Tel 22450 51226 A classic summer taverna serving old-fashioned island cooking such as oven-cooked meat and vegetable dishes, salads and meat grills – lamb, pork chops and chicken. Occasionally served are fish, stuffed peppers, and kid in red sauce with roast potatoes. Nice location by the harbour at Diafáni. Closed Oct–Jul.

KASTELLORIZO Lazarakis

Harbour, Kastellórizo Tel 22460 49730 A friendly restaurant with tables either under a vine trellis or on a little jetty in the yacht-filled harbour. Serves perfectly prepared fresh fish, prawns and lobster, good salads and island delicacies such as sea urchin roe. This is one of the classic island tavernas and highly recommended. Closed Nov–Mar.

KOS Limniónas

Limnionas Tel 69324 22002 Traditional fish restaurant beside a small fishing harbour in Limniónas, 48 km (30 miles) from Kos Town. Fresh fish is delivered daily and simply grilled to perfection. Well worth making the journey for, especially for a leisurely lunch beside the sea. Closed Nov–Apr. Key to Price Guide see p330 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

KOS O Makis

Mastichári Tel 22420 59061 One of the best little fish tavernas on the island, O Makis is located next to an attractive little fishing harbour from which comes most of the seafood that it serves. Expect sea-fresh tsipoura and fagri as well as prawns, squid, octopus and – for special occasions, and worth ordering a couple of days in advance – langouste. Closed lunch.

KOS Plátanos

Plateía Platanou Tel 22420 28991 Located on the square beside the Castle of Knights, this café-restaurant overlooks the ancient agora. More peaceful than Kos Town’s parade of harbour-side restaurants, it serves light meals, snacks and drinks, and is reasonably priced compared with many eating places in town. Closed Nov–May.

LEROS Petrino

Lakkí Tel 22470 24807 Surprisingly chic taverna with tables inside or outside on the terrace. The menu is traditional, with the emphasis on oven-cooked dishes and grilled meats, but there are imaginative twists to some of the old favourites. Even the chips are more flavoursome than you might expect.

LEROS Da Guisie e Marcello

Alínda (3 km/2 miles from Agia Marína village) Tel 22470 24888 A classic Italian trattoria that takes pride in creating fine classical cooking using only the best locally-sourced organic ingredients. Good choice of vegetarian dishes and authentic Italian pizzas together with a select few Greek wines and an array of organic Italian imported vintages. Good value. Closed Nov–Feb.

LIPSI Kalypso

Waterfront, Lipsí Town Tel 22470 41242 Grilled octopus and roast stuffed kid (in season) are among the better offerings at this lively restaurant with tables shaded by a vine covered trellis on the harbour side. Also on offer are most of the usual Greek favourites and a few more cosmopolitan dishes. Basic wine list. Closed Oct–Apr.

PATMOS Aspro

Paralía Asprís, Skála Tel 22470 32240 This sophisticated seafood restaurant, on the outskirts of Skála, has an extensive menu of fresh fish dishes (according to season and catch) served from the grill. Also on offer is a good array of accompaniments and starters and an excellent dessert trolley. Closed lunch; Oct–May.

PATMOS Giagia

Skála Tel 22470 33226 The menu here is an imaginative fusion of Indonesian and Greek-Mediterranean influences with the emphasis on local seafood and other produce. Dishes are treated in interesting new ways and generally served Southeast Asian-style, with spiced rice or noodles. Closed lunch; Nov–Apr.

RHODES Meltemi

Akti Koundourioti Newly-renovated, unpretentious family-run restaurant right on the beach. The simple menu has a good choice of hot and cold appetizers, grills and fish dishes – a basket of fresh hot bread is served with every meal. Its terrace with sea views makes it an ideal spot for lunch. Closed Nov–Mar.

RHODES La Casa 28 Mandilara, New Town Tel 22410 32926

La Casa offers a good, basic pizza and pasta menu that also includes a selection of grilled meat dishes and some Greek favourites. Not for those in search of an authentic Greek culinary experience but the portions and prices are reasonable and the service prompt and professional. Closed Nov–Mar.

RHODES Alexis

Sokratous 18, Old Town Tel 22410 29347 This wonderful restaurant in the heart of the picturesque Old Town has been specializing in seafood since it opened in 1957. A host of celebrity guests have come to enjoy the perfectly-grilled fresh fish, good wines and professional but friendly service. Choice of tables on two floors and sunny terrace. Better for dinner than lunch. Closed Nov–Mar.

RHODES Mavrikos

Kentriki Plateía, Líndos Tel 22440 31232 Run by two brothers, this award-winning restaurant attracts a host of celebrity diners. Squid in saffron sauce, skate and pine nuts, diced octopus with nutmeg and bulgur wheat are among the offerings, along with home-made ice cream. Located on the main square of Lindos, with sweeping views from the terrace. Closed Nov–Apr.

SYMI Mylopetra

Sými Tel 22460 72333 A gourmet restaurant with a passion for Mediterranean fusion cuisine and the best of Greek new-wave wines. The menu and wine list here are superb, the restauant housed in a sensitively restored Sými mansion with a lovely courtyard. Expensive, but well worth a visit. Closed lunch; Nov–Apr.

TILOS Pavlos

Livádia Tel 22460 44011 Small, friendly, family-run taverna and snack bar overlooking a pebbly beach. On the menu here are traditional Greek dishes as well as some international offerings. All meals are made from fresh, locally-sourced ingredients. This is one of the better places to eat on Tílos. Closed Oct–Apr.

THE CYCLADES AMORGOS Liotrisi

Chóra Tel 22850 71700 This delightful restaurant in the island capital serves oven-cooked traditional dishes as well as Amorgós specialities such as peppers stuffed with veal and cheese, rabbit stifádo and other typical dishes. Tables inside in the shade or outside under umbrellas .

AMORGOS Ambrosia

Tholária Tel 22850 73395 Serving Greek and international dishes (mainly pasta and pizza), Ambrosia is very popular with summer visitors to nearby Aigiáli. Fresh fish is always available, but if you want lobster let the restaurant know a day or so in advance. Reasonable wine list. Closed Oct–May: lunch.

ANDROS Nona

Plakoura, old harbour, Chóra Tel 22820 23577 This seasonal fish taverna stands beside the old harbour, below Andros’s main village. Served up are all the usual favourites, plus some more off-beat seafood choices such as fousta (sea violets) and sea urchin roe. At a stone’s throw from the sea you can expect the fish here to be very fresh, and it is. Closed Oct–Apr.

ANDROS Sirocco

Above the harbour, Mpatsí Tel 22820 41023 Housed in a 100-year-old building with a wooden interior, this restaurant offers a surprising array of international dishes as well as the expected Greek favourites. Choices include curry dishes such as chicken biriani, pizzas and pasta dishes. Pleasant seafront location and good service. Closed lunch.

FOLEGANDROS Kritikos

Main square, Chóra Tel 22860 41219 A cheerful, open-air grill house in the centre of the island’s picturesque main town. Offerings include grilled chicken, pork chops, lamb and beefburgers, with large salad portions, tsatsíki (yoghurt with cucumber) and wine by the bottle or from the barrel. Simple and affordable enough to suit all budgets. Closed Oct–May.

FOLEGANDROS I Melissa

Plateía Kontarini, Chóra Tel 22860 41067 The longest established restaurant on the island, I Melissa has been in business for almost half a century. The food is traditional taverna fare, with oven-cooked dishes such as moussakás and pastítsio, kid in lemon sauce, salads and fried and grilled meat dishes. Omelettes and rice pudding served in the mornings. Closed Sep–May.

IOS Lordos Byron

Chóra Tel 22860 92125 This is a traditional-style ouzeri and mezedopoleío with an interesting choice of snacks and small dishes to sample with your ouzo, raki, beer or retsina. The recorded background music is traditional rembétika. Closed lunch; Nov–Mar.

IOS Elpis

Mylopotamós Beach Tel 22860 91626 This long-established cafe-restaurant has a loyal following of guests. Opened in 1970 it has been a fixture on the Ios summer scene ever since, serving traditional meals, snacks and fish dishes. Best during the day, when it makes for the perfect spot to enjoy a long, lazy lunch not far from the beach. Closed Nov–Apr.

KYTHNOS To Kantoúni

Mérichas Bay Tel 22810 32220 This simple restaurant is perched at the water’s edge with a view across Mérichas Bay. The menu includes grilled meat and seafood, the usual oven-cooked meals, salads, and some local island specialties such as sfougata (deepfried egg and cheese croquettes). Good value for money. Closed Nov–Mar.

KYTHNOS Ostria

Harbour front, Mérichas Tel 22810 32263 This is an excellent harbour-side taverna with good fresh seafood, grills and salads and a menu packed with traditional dishes, well-prepared to meet the tastes of a demanding, mainly Athenian, clientele. Local specialities include sfougata (egg and cheese croquettes) and loukánika (spicy sausages). Good service. Closed Nov–Mar. Key to Price Guide see p330 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

MILOS Aragosta

Adámantas Tel 22870 22292 This summer off-shoot of the well-known Athens restaurant of the same name is the best on Mílos. Above-average seafood including lobster and crab, grilled fish dishes, and views over the bay of Adámantas from the terrace tables. Attached to the restaurant is an attractive cocktail bar for aperitifs or after-dinner drinks. Closed lunch; Oct–Apr.

MILOS Kapetan-Nikola

Apollonía Tel 22870 41212 Expensive but atmospheric fish taverna with a good seafood menu complemented by oven-cooked dishes (the kléftiko is highly recommended) and grills. There is also a good selection of imaginatively-prepared vegetable dishes. Book ahead, especially on summer weekends when it is very popular with visiting Athenians. Closed Dec.

MYKONOS Kastro

Kástro area, Little Venice, Mýkonos Town Tel 22890 23072 This legendary gay bar, overlooking the Kástro district of Mýkonos Town, is a relaxing place to sip strawberry daiquiris and listen to classical music. Laid-back, popular and a good place in Little Venice from which to watch the spectacular sunsets. Closed lunch; mid-Oct–Apr.

MYKONOS Sea Satin Market Caprice

Mýloi, Mýkonos Town Tel 22890 24676 This lively fish restaurant and traditional grill is located by the sea with open-air tables below the village’s famous windmills and with views of Little Venice. The restaurant is a delight for seafood lovers and carnivores alike, this is one of the few places you can get a really good steak. Closed lunch; Nov–Apr.

MYKONOS Katrine’s

Matogiannia Tel 22890 22169 Katrine’s enjoys a long-standing reputation for fine French and Greek cuisine and has an outstanding list of Greek and imported wines. A very good choice of Greek appetizers and more sophisticated main dishes, attentive service and a dressed-up clientele. Booking is advisable. Closed May–Sep: lunch; Nov–Mar.

NAXOS Manolis

Bourgos, Náxos Town Tel 22850 25168 This garden taverna, in the heart of the old town, serves traditional Greek cuisine in very pleasant surroundings. Dishes on offer include melitzánes (fried aubergines), skordaliá (potato and garlic purée) and other well-known favourites at prices to suit even smaller budgets. Closed lunch; Nov–Mar.

NAXOS The Old Inn

Náxos Town Tel 22850 26093 For those looking for something different, this restaurant in Náxos’s harbour village is an unusual find. A German bar-restaurant serving typically German snacks and dishes such as sausage and black bread, Wiener schnitzel, and more sophisticated international cuisine. Smaller portions available for children. Closed lunch.

NAXOS Classico

Náxos Town Tel 22850 26106 This restaurant is a little more stylish than most of its rivals on Náxos. The menu emphasizes classical Italian cuisine, as well as a number of Greek favourites. Tables are on the terrace or in an air-conditioned dining room making it a good choice for dinner whatever the weather. Closed lunch; Oct–Apr.

PAROS Porfyra

Waterfront, Paroikiá Tel 22840 23410 This friendly, family-run fish taverna is one of the best bargains in busy Paroikiá and as well as the usual assortment of more familiar fish dishes such as barboúnia (red mullet) and sea bream it also offers up some more unusual seafood options such as multi-coloured fousta (sea violets) and other shellfish.

PAROS Levantis

Paroikiá Tel 22840 23613 This smart restaurant serves international dishes and contemporary Greek cuisine using the best local produce. The menu changes seasonally to ensure freshness and the emphasis is on light, clean-tasting food. Exotic offerings from around the Mediterranean include North African dishes such as couscous. Closed Oct–Apr.

SANTORINI Iliovasilema

Ammoudí, Oía Tel 22860 71614 A delightfully simple quayside restaurant where the fish comes straight off the boat and onto the grill. The menu here mainly depends on the catch of the day which can be enjoyed at rickety wooden tables beside a tiny pebbly beach. Extremely good value. Closed Nov–Apr.

SANTORINI Nikolas

Erithrou Stavrou, Firá Tel 22860 24550 A long-established traditional taverna in the heart of Firá with an authentic Greek menu that makes few concessions to 21st-century influences. Fish, a good choice of local cheeses and salads, and island wines from the barrel. Good views and air-conditioning compensate for the lack of outdoor seating. Closed lunch Sun.

SANTORINI 1800

Main street, Oía Tel 22860 71485 Book ahead for an evening at Oía’s swankiest restaurant where the sophisticated menu blends Greek and European influences. There is an extensive wine list with a good sampling of Santorini’s more interesting labels and vintages. Not too formal, but not ideal for children. Closed lunch; Oct–Apr.

SERIFOS Takis

Waterfront, Livádi Tel 22810 51159 Takis is a sophisticated eating place with a large menu featuring plenty of excellent seafood dishes and salads. There is also an extensive wine list, with some of the better wines imported from the islands and the Greek mainland, as well as good local wine from the barrel. Closed Oct–Apr.

SIFNOS Artemónas

Agiou Kostantínou 3, Artemónas Tel 22840 31303 Located in the Artemónas hotel, this restaurant offers good home-made dishes using organic vegetables. Dine in the charming traditional interior with wooden furniture and blue and white tablecloths or sit in the hotel’s peaceful garden. Closed Oct–May.

SIFNOS Odos Oneiron

Apollonía Tel 22840 33389 This is Sífnos’s classiest and most expensive restaurant, offering a wide choice of Mediterranean fusion-influenced cooking alongside an array of Greek favourites including grilled seafood. The restaurant is housed in a renovated 19th century island mansion and is a delightful place for a romantic evening. Closed lunch; Oct–Apr.

SYROS Iliovasilema

Galissás Tel 22810 43325 This aptly named fish taverna at Galissás, 9km (6 miles) from Ermoúpoli, has an extensive menu of mainly fish dishes. On offer are some interesting seafood pasta recipes, and dishes such as stuffed squid, but the menu also features a reasonable choice of grills and traditional oven-cooked dishes. Closed Oct–Apr.

SYROS Lilis

Piatsa, Ano Sýros, Ermoúpolis Tel 22810 88087 Famous for its stunning views over the bay, this excellent restaurant features live bouzoúki and rembétika music at weekends. A local legend that is popular with islanders and visitors from Athens. Book ahead for a table on Saturday and Sunday evenings. Closed lunch; Nov–Feb.

TINOS Pallada

Kontogiorgi 7, Tínos Town Tel 22830 23526 Large, old-fashioned taverna with indoor and outdoor tables in the main market square of Tínos Town. Serves traditional taverna cuisine with plenty of oven-cooked dishes, grills, salads and loukánika (sausages). The local wine from the barrel is better than average, and a strong local clientele lends authenticity. Closed mid-Dec–end Feb.

TINOS Metaxi mas

Tínos Town Tel 22830 25945 A recent addition to Tínos’s portfolio of eating places, this classy mezedopoleío offers a good choice of snacks and larger meals, an array of classic ouzos to choose from and wine from the barrel or by the glass. Good assortment of dishes for vegetarians as well as meat-eaters, and a very lively atmosphere, especially in the evening.

CRETE AGIA ROUMELI To Farangi

Main square Tel 28250 91225 This family-run taverna is the best place to satisfy your appetite after a hike in the Samariá gorge. Specialities include sfakaníes pítes (pastries topped with honey, a favourite of the Sfakiá region). The menu also includes stuffed vegetables, vine leaves, grilled meat dishes and fresh fish from the nearby Libyan Sea. Closed Oct–May.

AGIOS NIKOLAOS To Koutouki

Lassithiou 4A Tel 28410 26877 Affordable mezedopoleío-ouzerí offering a wide range of mezédes and snacks that change seasonally. Staples include octopus, cheeses, sausage, shrimps and vegetable dips. Traditional drinks include ouzo and raki, and wine and retsina from the barrel or bottle. Good for a light lunch on a hot afternoon.

AGIOS NIKOLAOS Itanos

Plateía Venizélou Tel 28410 25340 Popular taverna in a lane just off Agios Nikólaos’s main square. The menu includes spit-roasted chicken, lamb and goat, oven-baked dishes, and an assortment of stuffed and stewed vegetables. Good value and a decent choice of local wines. Seats inside or out. Closed Nov–Mar. Key to Price Guide see p330 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

CHANIA Tholos

Agion Déka 36, 73100 Tel 28210 46725 This reasonably-priced restaurant enjoys a good reputation and uses ingredients sourced from the best local produce. Housed in a 14th-century building with tables set in a courtyard surrounded by old stone walls. Extensive wine list and very busy during the summer months. Closed Nov–Mar.

CHANIA To Pigadi tou Tourkou (The Well of the Turk) 1–3 Kallinikou Sarpaki, Splantzia, 73100 Tel 28210 54547

This cosy restaurant is housed in the arched stone cellar of an ancient Chaniá mansion, with candle-lit tables and Cretan and Levantine background music. The menu is more imaginative than most – try the aubergine meatballs, or the spicy stuffed squid – and uses local produce. Closed lunch; Wed; mid-Nov–Feb.

CHANIA Dínos

3 Akti Enoseos, 73100 Tel 28210 41865 One of Chaniá’s best seafood restaurants, Dínos is on the quayside of Chaniá’s delightful inner harbour. Sit at traditional blue wooden tables and chairs with white tablecloths and order from an extensive choice of seafood, from octopus and whitebait to langouste and sea bass. Closed Nov–Mar.

CHANIA To Karnagio

8 Katehaki, 73100 Tel 28210 53366 This old-style taverna on the harbour continues to serve good fish and solid traditional favourites including moussakás, pastítsio, grilled lamb, pork, chicken and large salads with feta cheese. Wine is served from the barrel. Good for a hearty meal on a limited budget. Closed Nov–Mar.

CHANIA Ela

42 Kondylaki, 73100 Tel 28210 74128 Ela’s is located within the stone-paved courtyard of an attractively restored Venetian mansion in the centre of Chaniá’s old quarter. A wide menu which includes the run-of-the-mill Greek offerings and a sprinkling of authentic Cretan dishes along with a range of options that owe much to its multi-national clientele. Closed Nov–Mar.

CHANIA Tamam

49 Zambeliou, 73100 Tel 28210 96080 Tamam serves a wide range of mainstream Greek, Cretan and eastern Mediterranean-influenced dishes. Lots of dips – hummus, fáva, tzatzíki – and cooked vegetable dishes (courgette fritters, fried chickpea balls) make this one of the few decent options for vegetarians in Crete. Closed Nov–Mar.

ELOUNTA Argo

Eloúnta Gulf Villas, Eloúnta Tel 28410 90300 This is the smart restaurant of the upmarket Eloúnta Gulf Villas resort, serving some outstanding and imaginative dishes with real Mediterranean flair, such as lobster and crayfish risotto. More traditional dishes, such as meat in filo pastry with yoghurt, are also on offer. Service is professional and the wine list good. Closed Nov–Mar.

ELOUNTA The Old Mill

Eloúnta Mare Hotel Tel 28410 41102 Located in one of the island’s grandest hotels, The Old Mill is the most luxurious restaurant in eastern Crete. The menu combines the best of Greek flavours and island produce with international cuisine, and the extensive wine list allows sampling of some of the finest vintages from Crete and elsewhere in Greece. Booking essential. Closed Nov–Mar.

IERAPETRA Odeion

Lasthenous 18 Tel 28420 27429 This stylish mezedopoleío and café-bar is housed in an elegant Neo-Classical mansion. Younger locals and summer visitors come for the range of cocktails, imported beers and local wines, as well as for the good selection of mezédes and light meals. Tables inside and out. Closed lunch; Sun in winter.

IRAKLEIO O Kyriákos

Leofóros Dimokratías 53 Tel 28102 22464 You will be beckoned into the kitchen of this old-fashioned restaurant to choose your meal from bubbling pots or glass cases filled with fish, vegetables and cuts of meat. O Kyriakós is an Irákleio institution, unpretentious and catering to a loyal local following. Wine from the barrel.

IRAKLEIO Loukoulos

Korai 5 Tel 28102 24435 A mainly Italian menu in up-market surroundings – with white linen tablecloths, candles in the evening, and a dining room decorated with antique prints and paintings. With its excellent food, Loukoulos has been regarded for years as one of the best restaurants in Irákleio.

MAKRYGIALOS Spilia tou Drakoú

Paralía Kaló Neró Tel 28430 51494 Above the beach at Kaló Neró, this is one of the better places to eat in Makrýgialos. Sofía and Vasíli Drakoú serve hearty, traditional grills and oven-cooked casserole dishes, as well as a choice of fish dishes and lighter snacks. Friendly atmosphere, and nice views of the sea and the surrounding hills. Closed Nov–Mar.

MARATHI Pandelis

Marathi Beach Tel 22470 32609 A simple beach taverna by a small sandy cove, and run by a Greek-Australian couple. There are tables among lots of shady greenery, and an imaginative menu – try the octopus with caper leaves, spit-roasted goat or the vegetable fritters. Also has several simple rooms to rent and serves breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Closed Nov-Apr.

PALAICHORA Oriental Bay

Anatoliko Paralía Tel 28230 41322 A little family restaurant beneath the palm trees of Palaiochora’s long, sandy eastern beach. On the menu is a reasonable choice of Cretan dishes, Greek standards and international favourites, all at affordable prices. This is a good spot for lunch beside the sea. Choice of Cretan and Greek wines. Closed Oct–Apr.

RETHYMNO Kyria Maria

20 Moschovitou, 74100 Tel 28310 29078 This colourful little taverna on a narrow lane in Rethymno’s old quarter has a small menu of plain, village-style cretan dishes. Its busy during the evenings (get there early to find a table) but quieter at lunchtime. Friendly service, good food and very good value. Closed Nov–Mar.

RETHYMNO Avlí

22 Xanthoudidou, 74100 Tel 28310 26213 This charming restaurant offers dining in vaulted rooms or in the courtyard of an old mansion. The menu consists mainly of grilled and roast meat and there is an extensive wine list featuring some of the best Greek wines. Attentive service and spotless interior.

RETHYMNO Veneto

Epimenidou 4 Tel 28310 56634 The fine dining restaurant of one of Rethymno’s smartest boutique hotels is the place to sample some of Greece’s best wines. The elegantly prepared meals include lamb in vine leaves, cuttlefish-ink pasta, prawns in saffron sauce, and Byzantine spicy meat balls. Tables indoors, in a cool, stone-vaulted cellar, or in a courtyard. Closed Nov–Apr.

SITEIA Zorbas

Harbour front, Siteía Tel 28430 22689 This traditional-style taverna on the waterfront is favoured as much for its attractive location as for its menu. On offer is the usual array of grilled meat and fish dishes, oven-baked moussakás, beans and salads. There are also more expensive choices such as grilled lobster, octopus and barboúnia (red mullet). Adequate choice of local wines.

VAMOS Sterna tou Bloumofisi

Vamos Tel 28250 22932 Perhaps the best place in Crete to sample the real Cretan diet, with dishes such as snails, shredded broad beans, wild artichokes, cuttlefish in fennel, rooster in wine, and oven-cooked rabbit, goat and chicken. Set in an authentic taverna dating from the 19th century. Fine selection of local wines. Closed Dec–Feb.

ATHENS EKALI Avenue 103

Thisseos 103, 14565 Tel 21062 60400 Modern, French-influenced cooking is the keynote of Avenue 103, the trendy restaurant of Athens’s newest “style” hotel in the up-and-coming suburb of Ekali. The menu here is influenced by the Greek seasons and there is also an excellent choice of Greek and imported wines.

GAZI Brothel

Orpheos 33 & Dekeleon, 11853 Tel 21034 70505 This happening bar-restaurant in the lively former industrial quarter of Gazi (gasworks), attracts a lively crowd of young Athenians. The décor, with the emphasis on red and black, is somewhat Gothic, and this is no place for a quiet evening. Imaginative menu. Closed lunch.

KIFISSIA Vardis

Pendelikón Hotel, Diligiannis 66, Kifissiá, 14562 Tel 21062 30650 You will probably want to dress up if you plan to eat at this grand hotel restaurant in the upmarket suburb of Kifissiá. Vardis is one of the elite few Michelin-starred eating places in Greece. Its menu focuses on contemporary French cooking with a Greek twist, using the best regionally sourced ingredients. Closed lunch; Sun.

KOLONAKI Le Grand Balcon

St George Lycabettus Hotel, 10675 Tel 21072 90711 It is worth visiting Le Grand Balcon, the St George Lycabettus Hotel’s rooftop restaurant-bar, if only for the magnificent view of Athens at night. The food is good too and the wine list features some of the better wines that have begun emerging from Greek vineyards in recent years. Good cocktails. Key to Price Guide see p330 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

LYKAVITTOS Orizontes Lykavittou

Lofos Lykavittou, 10673 Tel 21072 27065 A mainly Athenian clientele come to savour the modern cuisine and good wine list of this excellent restaurant. The service is attentive (and multi-lingual) and the food is modern Mediterranean. Wonderful views over the city from its location on Lykavittós Hill.

MAKRIGIANNI Strofi

25 Rovertou Galli, 11742 Tel 21092 14130 The view here is outstanding, especially at night, when your table has a prospect of the floodlit columns of the Acropolis. Good, solid, traditional Greek dishes and rapid service. Reservations recommended, especially during summer evenings. Closed lunch; Sun.

MONASTIRAKI Abyssinia

Plateia Abyssinias, 10555 Tel 21034 26794 Cheap, cheerful and lively mezedopoleío restaurant in an old building on a square cluttered with antique shops, in the heart of the flea market district. On the menu is a variety of good, small dishes. This is an excellent place to stop whether you want a snack or a more substantial meal. Closed Jul–Aug.

MONASTIRAKI To Koutí

Adrianou 23, 10555 Tel 21032 13229 A few steps from the flea-market area, To Koutí is a great place for a meal, a snack, or just coffee, with tables outside and inside an attractive old building with mellow painted walls and marble tables. This restaurant is good for salads and grilled meat dishes, with a laid-back atmosphere during the day.

OMONOIA Ideal

Panepistemiou 46, 10678 Tel 21033 03000 A grand, Art-Deco interior and a menu that includes international standard dishes as well as Greek classics such as milk-fed veal with aubergine, stuffed courgettes and artichokes in lemon juice. Ideal has been an Omonoia favourite since it opened in 1922. Closed Sun.

PANGRATI Spondi

Pyrronos 5, 11636 Tel 21075 20658 This Michelin-star restaurant combines Greek and French produce and influences, with a fusion à la carte menu that changes at least twice a year. It also boasts a remarkable wine list. Tables outdoors during summer in a paved courtyard, or indoors in a cool, vaulted cellar. Very stylish. Reservations recommended. Closed Sun.

PLAKA Eden

Lissiou 12, 10558 Tel 21032 48858 Eden opened in 1982 – the country’s first real vegetarian restaurant – and it still has no rivals in Athens. With a friendly atmosphere, it is good for snacks and soft drinks (including herbal teas and freshly squeezed organic juices) as well as more substantial meals.

PLAKA Scholarchio

Tripodon 14, 10558 Tel 21032 47605 A cheap and cheerful, split-level ouzerí-mezedopoleío located on a pedestrian street below the Acropolis. The food is uncomplicated and served in traditional fashion – you pick each dish from the waiter’s tray. Eat inside, or on a shaded terrace with fine views.

PLAKA O Damigos

Kydathinaion 41, 10558 Tel 21032 25084 A Plaka institution, this venerable basement restaurant (hidden away beneath a bar) is famous for cod and chips, Athenian-style, served with skordaliá (mashed garlic) and washed down with pungent retsina from the barrel. Inside, ancient stone pillars support its ceiling. Closed lunch.

PLAKA Daphne’s

Lysikratous 4, 10557 Tel 21032 27971 A grand, ornate restaurant with an impressive list of famous visitors, including several heads of state. Walls are graced by colourful frescoes, and there are tables in a choice of inner rooms or an outdoor courtyard. Stick to the simpler dishes such as grilled fish or meat. Extensive list of Greek wines. Closed lunch; first two weeks in Jan.

THISEIO Abibagio

Iraklidon 3, 11851 Tel 21034 26794 One of the capital’s best mezedopoleío restaurants where you can sample countless small dishes ranging from half a dozen kinds of cheese, salted and pickled anchovies and herrings, vegetable dishes, and dips such as taramasaláta, hummus, fáva and tsatsíki. Ouzo, beer and retsina are the favoured drinks.

THISEIO Pil Poul

Corner of Apostolou Pavlou & Poulopoulou, 11851 Tel 210 342 3665 Housed in a 1920s Neo-Classical mansion, Pil Poul serves fashionable Mediterranean cooking with a strong French influence. The magnificent views of the Acropolis from its rooftop terrace draw the crowds to this busy and expensive restaurant. Smart dress and reservations essential. Closed lunch.

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ARCHAEOLOGICAL TOURS

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Walkers climbing Mount Idi in central Crete

The Travelling Naturalist. Island Holidays5,,+899/3/2'82?:.+3+* ='21/4-:.85;-.5;::.+8++1 :5;89548+:+Simpson’s /92'4*9/4)2;*/4-953+5,:.+ Greece'295+>6258+:.+=/2*2/,+ 2+99+8
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A chameleon, found mainly on Crete

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685
Daytrip boats in Mandráki Harbour, Rhodes

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HORSE RIDING

DIRECTORY ARCHAEOLOGICAL TOURS Andante Travels The Old Barn, Old Road, Alderbury, Salisbury, SP5 3AR, UK Tel 01722 713800 www.andantetravels.co.uk

Filoxenia Castle Howard, York, YO60 7JU, UK Tel 01653 617755 www.filoxenia.co.uk

CREATIVE HOLIDAYS

Tel 01263 578143 www.limosaholidays.co.uk

Simpson’s Greece

CRUISES AND BOAT TRIPS

(see Creative Holidays)

Hellenic Holidays

The Travelling Naturalist

1501 Broadway, Suite 1512, New York, NY 10036, USA Tel 212 944 8288 www.hellenicholidays.com

PO Box 3141, Dorchester, Dorset, DT1 2XD, UK Tel 01305 267994 www.naturalist.co.uk

WALKING AND TREKKING Explore 55 Victoria Road, Farnborough, Hants, GU14 7PA, UK Tel 0870 333 4001 www.explore.co.uk

Metro Tours 484 Lowell St, Peabody, MA 01960, USA. Tel 800 221 2810 www.metrotours.com

Odyssey Sailing Greece

Freelance Holidays

Antonopoulo 158D, 38221 Volos. Tel 24210 36676/58116 www.odysseysailing.gr

Bolney Place, Cowfold Road, Bolney, West Sussex, RH17 5QT, UK Tel 01444 880380 www.laskarina.co.uk

www.freelanceholidays.co.uk

Star Clippers

Simpson’s Greece

Inntravel

Filoxenia (see Archaeological Tours)

Laskarina Holidays

44 Sheen Lane, East Sheen, London, SW14 8LP, UK Tel 0845 811 6502 www.simpsontravel.com

Travel à la Carte The White House, Drove Lane, Thatcham, RG18 9NL, UK Tel 01635 201250.

GREEK LANGUAGE COURSES Omilo PO Box 61070, 15101 Maroussi, Athens Tel 210 612 2896 www.omilo.com

Friends of the Ionian www.foi.org.uk Castle Howard, York, YO60 7JU, UK Tel 01653 617906 www.inntravel.co.uk

Ramblers Holidays Lemsford Mill, Lemsford Village, Welwyn Garden City, Herts, AL8 7TR, UK Tel 01707 331133 www.ramblersholidays. co.uk

Sherpa Expeditions

Crown House, Crown Street, Ipswich IP1 3HS, UK Tel 01473 292029 www.starclippers.co.uk

Swan Hellenic Cruises Richmond House, Perminus Terrace, Southampton SO14 3PN, UK Tel 0845 355 5111 www.swanhellenic.com

Unicorn Trails 2 Acorn Centre, Chestnut Avenue, Biggleswade, Beds, SG18 0RA, UK Tel 01767 600606 www.unicorntrails.com

GOLF AND TENNIS Bill Goff Golf Tours I75 King Street, South Shields, Tyne and Wear, NE33 1DP, UK Tel 0870 4012020 www.billgoff.com

Crete Golf Club PO Box 106, 70014 Hersonissos, Crete Tel 28970 2600 www.crete-golf.com

Golf Afandou Afántou Bay, Rhodes Tel 22410 51451 www.afandougolfcourse. com

Hellenic Golf Federation www.hgf.gr

Neilson Active Holidays

Travelsphere

Locksview, Brighton Marina, Brighton BN2 5HA Tel 0870 333 3356 www.neilson.co.uk

(see Walking and Trekking)

Porto Elounda Resort

Voyages of Discovery

Elounda, Crete 72053 Tel 28410 41903 www.portoelounda.gr

131a Heston Road, Hounslow, Middlesex, TW5 0RF, UK Tel 0208 577 2717 www.sherpaexpeditions. com

1 Victoria Way, Burgess Hill, W. Sussex, RH15 9NF, UK Tel 0845 612 9149 www.voyagesofdiscovery. com

Simply Crete

3D Golf 61 New Road, Ayr, Scotland KA8 8DA, UK Tel 01292 263331 www.3dgolf.com

NATURE HOLIDAYS

www.simplytravel.co.uk

CYCLING AND MOPEDS

NATURISM

Travelsphere

Explore

Vitromatis Hotel

Hellenic Ornithological Society

Compass House, Rockingham Road, Market Harborough, Leicestershire, LE16 7QD, UK Tel 0800 191418 www.travelsphere.co.uk

55 Victoria Road, Farnborough, Hants, GU14 7PA, UK Tel 0870 333 4001 www.explore.co.uk

Chora Sfakion, Crete Tel 282 509 1112 www.vritomartis.gr

Trekking Hellas

Simpson’s Greece (see Creative Holidays)

Arblaster and Clarke

Vasileos Irakleiou 24, 10682 Athens. Tel 210 822 7937 www.ornithologiki.gr/en/ enmain.htm

Island Holidays PO Box 26317, Comrie, Crieff PH6 2YL, UK. Tel 01764 670107. www.islandholidays.co.uk

Limosa Holidays Suffield House, Northrepps, Norfolk, NR27 0LZ, UK.

Filellinou 7, 10557 Athens Tel 210 331 0323 www.trekking.gr

HORSE RIDING

Waymark Holidays

Equitour

44 Windsor Road, Slough, Berkshire, SL1 2EJ Tel 01753 516477 www.waymarkholidays. com

Petershold Farm, Minstead, Lyndhurst, Hants, SO43 7GJ, UK Tel 0800 043 7942 www.equitour.co.uk

FOOD AND WINE

Farnham Road, West Liss, Hants, GU33 6JQ, UK Tel 01730 8933440 www.winetours.co.uk

Laskarina Holidays (see Creative Holidays)

Simpson’s Greece (see Creative Holidays)

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!

%#6')14+'5#4'$1#6 %*#46'4+59+6*176# 5-+22'414%4'9 #0&+5#8#+.#$.'61 6*15'9+6*24'8+175 5#+.+0)':2'4+'0%' %106#%66*'Hellenic Professional and Bareboat Yacht Owners’ Association)4'9'&

DIRECTORY USEFUL ORGANIZATIONS Department of Underwater Archaeology Kallispéri 30, 11742 Athens. Tel 210 924 7249.

Hire centre for watersports equipment, Rhodes

Greek Yacht Brokers’ and Consultants’ Association

SCUBA AND SNORKELLING

Marina Zeas, 185 36 Piraeus.

*'#/#<+0).;%.'#49#6'45 1(6*''&+6'44#0'#0#0&

')'#04'8'#.#914.&1(57$ /#4+0'.+('#0%*#'1.1)+%#. 4'/#+05014-'..+0) %#0$''0,1;'& #./156#0;9*'4'#.10)6*' %1#5656*17)*5%7$#&+8+0)+5 5'8'4'.;4'564+%6'&'5+)0#6'& #4'#5(14&+8+0)#4'#4170& 4'6'*1&'5?.;/015#0& B-1015#0&#.51#4170& /1561(6*'10+#05.#0&5 %1/2.'6'.+561(2.#%'59*'4' +6+52'4/+55+$.'61&+8'9+6* 1:;)'0'37+2/'06%#0$' 1$6#+0'&(41/6*'14 $;/#+.(41/6*'Department

%*#46'454#0)'(41/ 6*'/1&'565'48+%'5 1(#5-+22'4#55+56#0614%11- 61#;#%*69+6*#(7..%4'9 #+.+0)9+6*+0#(.16+..# 6;2+%#..;+0#)41721(#4170& 61 ;#%*652418+&'56*' 12214670+6;1(+0&'2'0&'06 5#+.+0)9+6*6*'57221461(# .'#&$1#6%106#%6#$.'$;4#&+1 Thomas Cook#0&Sunsail

Tel 210 453 3134.

Hellenic Professional and Bareboat Yacht Owners’ Association Marina Zeas, 185 36 Piraeus. Tel 210 452 6335 or 210 428 0465. Hellenic Water-ski Federation Leofóros Possidónos, 16777 Athens. Tel 210 994 4334.

Hellenic Yachting Federation Possidónos 51, Piraeus. Tel 210 940 4828.

of Underwater Archaeology

+0 6*'05!*'4'8'4;17)1 5014-'..+0)14&+8+0)+6+5 564+%6.;(14$+&&'0614'/18' #0;#06+37+6+'5;175''14 '8'0612*161)4#2*6*'/

YACHT CHARTER COMPANIES Sunsail Port House, Port Solent,

SAILING HOLIDAYS

Learning the techniques of sailing

#+.+0)8#%#6+105%#0$' $11-'&6*417)*;#%*6%*#46'4 %1/2#0+'5+04''%'14 #$41#&*'5'#5104705(41/

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Portsmouth PO6 4TH, England. Tel 02392 222222. [email protected]

Tenrag Yacht Charters Tenrag House, Preston, Canterbury, Kent CT3 1EB, England. Tel 01227 721874. [email protected]

Zeus Charter and Yacht Brokers Papada 2, 11525 Athens. Tel 210 691 9191.

Thomas Cook Holidays Tel 08705 666222 (direct booking).

Ulysses Tours Inc. 645 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10022. Tel 1-800-431-1424. www.ulyssestours.com Sailing aboard a yacht in the Greek seas

SURVIVAL GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 352361 TRAVEL INFORMATION 362371

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DIRECTORY GREEK TOURIST OFFICES (EOT) Greek National Tourist Board Internet Site www.gnto.gr

Athens Tsocha 24, Ambelokipi, 11521 Athens. Tel 210 870 7000. Amalías 26. Tel 210 331 0640.

Australia 37-49 Pitt St, Sydney, NSW 2000. Tel (612) 9241 1663.

Canada 91 Scollard St, 2nd Floor, Toronto, Ontario M5R 1G4. Tel (416) 968-2220.

United Kingdom and Republic of Ireland 4 Conduit St, London W1S 2DJ. Tel 020-7495 9300.

USA Olympic Tower, 645 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10022. Tel (212) 421-5777.

USEFUL ADDRESSES Aliens’ Bureau Antigónis 99, Kolonos, Athens. Tel 210 510 2813.

Hosteling International USA 8401 Colesville Road, Suite 600, Silver Spring, MD 20910. Tel (301) 495-1240.

Pacific Travel Níkis 26, 10557 Athens. Tel 210 324 1007 or 210 322 3213.

STA Travel 11 Goodge St, London W1T 2PF. Tel 08701 600599. www.statravel.co.uk 10 Downing St, New York, NY 10014. Tel (212) 627-3111.

SATH (Society for the Advancement of Travel for the Handicapped) 347 Fifth Ave, Suite 610, New York, NY 10016. Tel (212) 447-7284. www.sath.org

The Assisted Travel Service 1 Tank Lane, Purfleet, Essex RM19 1TA. Tel 01708 863198. www.assistedholidays.com

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TOURIST INFORMATION ADMISSION CHARGES (;A>5?@5:2;>9-@5;:5?-B-58 -.815:9-:E@;C:?-:0 B588-31?5:>11/115@41>5: @412;>9;23;B1>:91:@>A: $(;225/1?885:57I?$>3-: 5?9I?(;A>5?9;J;>@41 1881:5/(;A>5?9$>3-:5F -@5;:9A:5/5<-88E>A:@;A>5?@ ;225/1?@418;/-8@;A>5?@<;85/1 ;><>5B-@18E ;C:10@>-B18-31:/51?(41 $(>-E;2 @;A>5?@85@1>-@A>15:/8A05:3 9-;/4A>1?-:081-281@? ;:@>-:?<;>@-:0-//;9 9;0-@5;:G.1-C->1@4;A34 @4-@:;@-88;2@415>5:2;>9-@5;: 5?A<@;0-@1-:0>185-.81(41 -00>1??1?-:0<4;:1:A9.1>? ;2@41$(-:09A:5/5<-8 @;A>5?@;225/1?-?C188-?@41 @;A>5?@<;85/1->185?@10 @4>;A34;A@@45?3A501 GREEK TIME

Entry ticket to an archaeological site

OPENING HOURS $<1:5:34;A>?@1:0@;.1 B-3A15:>11/1B->E5:3 2>;90-E@;0-E?1-?;:@; ?1-?;:-:0<8-/1@;<8-/1@ 5?@41>12;>1-0B5?-.81@;A?1 @41@591?35B1:5:@45?.;;7 -?>;A343A50185:1?;:8E-:0 @;/41/7C5@48;/-85:2;>9- @5;:/1:@>1?2;>-//A>-@1@591? '@-@1>A:9A?1A9?-:0 ->/4-1;8;35/-8?5@1?31:1>-88E ;<1:2>;9->;A:0 -9@; <9@419-6;>;:1??@-E ;<1:-?8-@1-?;><95: @41?A991>9;:@4? ";:0-E?-:09-5:1@41 A?A-8/8;?5:30-E?2;>9;?@ @;A>5?@-@@>-/@5;:?!;/-88E>A: -:0<>5B-@19A?1A9?9-E.1 /8;?10;:-005@5;:-8
>11/15?-8C-E? 4;A>? -41-0;2>5@-5:"( 4;A>-41-0;2A>;<1-: /;A:@>51?;:1:@>-8A>;<1-: (591?A/4-?>-:/14;A>? -41-0;2#1C,;>7 4;A>?-41-0;2 !;?:3181?-:0 4;A>?.145:0'E0:1E ?>11/15?:;C<->@;2 @41)5@2;88;C?@41>A81 @4-@-88)/;A:@>51?9A?@ /8;/7?2;>C->0@; ?A991>@591-:0.-/7-3-5: @;C5:@1>@591;:@41?-91 0-E?5:;>01>@;-B;50-:E /;:2A?5;:C41:@>-B1885:3 .1@C11:/;A:@>51?(45? ?4;A8081??1:@41/4-:/1;2 95??5:3-21>>E;>28534@0A1 A períptero, or kiosk, with a wide array @;/;:2A?5;:;B1>@41@591 of papers and periodicals

";?@?@-@1>A:9A?1A9? -:0->/4-1;8;35/-8?5@1? /4->31-:1:@>-:/1211;2 .1@C11:-:01A>;? &10A/@5;:?->1-B-58-.81 4;C1B1>>-:35:32>;9 ->;A:0 <1>/1:@2;>) /5@5F1:?-310 E1->?-:0 ;B1>A?1E;A><-??<;>@-? <>;;2;2-31@; <1>/1:@ 2;>:;:)?@A01:@?->910 C5@4-:5:@1>:-@5;:-8?@A01:@ 501:@5@E/->0' (4;A349;?@9A?1A9?-:0 ?5@1?->1/8;?10;:19-5: ;<1:->12>11;2/4->31 EVENTS (411:385?48-:3A-31 <-<1> 4-?- +4-@?$:/;8A9:3-F1@@5:3 1B1:@?-88;B1>@41/5@E-:0 -8?;@4;?1;2?<1/5-85:@1>1?@ @;/4580>1:(41@;A>5?@;225/1 5:91>575?'@>11@4-?-2>11 9;:@48E:385?48-:3A-31 9-3-F5:1 C45/44-?01@-58?;2 /A8@A>-81B1:@?-:0 1:@1>@-5:91:@5: @41:?-?0;1?@41 C1178E(591$A@-:0>117 8-:3A-31 85?@;2>11721?@5B-8?-:0 /A8@A>-81B1:@?5?35B1:;: <-31?G .A@5@5?C;>@4 -?75:3E;A>:1->1?@@;A>5?@ ;225/1-.;A@C4-@?4-<<1:5:3 8;/-88E$@41>2;>9?;21:@1> @-5:91:@5:/8A01@41;A@0;;> /5:19-5:?A991>C45/45? B1>E<;C5@4@41>117? 9;?@2589?->15::385?4C5@4 >117?A.@5@81?(41>1->1-8?;

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>;A:0<5:?2;>-<<85-:/1? @4-@:110@;.11->@410(41 -0-<@;>?>1=A5>102;>>5@5?4 181/@>5/-8-<<85-:/1?->1 05225/A8@@;25:05:>11/1?; .>5:3;:1C5@4E;A'5958->8E @>-:?2;>91>?->1:110102;> #;>@491>5/-:1=A5<91:@ CONVERSION CHART

A typical sign about dress codes at a monastery

.->?05?/;?-:0:534@/8A.?5: @41>1?;>@?-?C188-?@-B1>:-? -:0 " /;2211?4;EB588-31-:0 ;2@1:@41/1:@>1;2?;/5-88521 RELIGION

81-B1.1@C11: -:0<1> /1:@%A.85/@;581@-@@1:0-:@? ?4;A80-8?;.1@5<<10(-D5 0>5B1>?0;:;@1D<1/@-@5<.A@ @41E->1:;@-B1>?1@;@419 15@41>8571C5?14;@18<;>@1>? -:0/4-9.1>9-50?

>11/15?-89;?@1:@5>18E PHOTOGRAPHY >117$>@4;0;D(41 %4;@;3>-<45/25895?>1-058E ?E9.;8?-:0>5@A-8?;2@41 -B-58-.815:>11/1@4;A345@ >18535;:->1011<8E>;;@105: 5?;2@1:=A5@11D<1:?5B15: >117/A8@A>1-:0->1B5?5 @;A>5?@->1-?-:0/8;?1@;@41 .811B1>EC41>1'-5:@?0-E? 9-6;>?534@? ->1/181.>-@10@4>;A34;A@ (-75:3<4;@;3>-<4? >11/1.;@4 8;/-88E-:0:-@5;:-88E 5:?501/4A>/41?-:0 9;:-?@1>51?5?;225/5-88E (418->31?@>18535;A? 95:;>5@51?->1@41"A?859? 2;>.5001:C5@45:9A?1A9? ;2&4;01?-:0 ;?-:0 <4;@;3>-<4E5?A?A-88E @41-@4;85/?;2'K>;?-:0 <1>95@@10.A@28-?41? (H:;?@4;A34@41E -:0@>5<;0?->1;2@1::;@ /;:?@5@A@181??@4-:<1> :9;?@/-?1?C41>1- /1:@;2@41/;A:@>E? ?@588?/-91>-5?-88;C10 -B501;/-91>-C588-8?; @;@-8<;:;:$>@4;0;D 4-B1@;<-E-:1D@>-211 <8-/1?;2C;>?45<->1 @?5@1?9A?1A9?;>>18535;A? ?5@A-@105:@41:? .A5805:3?5@5?.1?@@;3-5: ETIQUETTE <1>95??5;:.12;>1A?5:3- /-91>--?>A81?0;B->E !571-:EC41>118?1/;99;: ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES /;A>@1?E-:0>1?<1/@5? -<<>1/5-@105:>11/1?;@>E ?<1-75:3-21CC;>0?;2@41 8-:3A-311B1:52E;A>B;/-.A 8->E;:8E1D@1:0?-?2->-?@41 .-?5/? (4;A342;>9-8-@@5>15?>->18E :110109;01?@/8;@45:3@>;A ?1>?2;>91:-:0?75>@?2;> C;91:5? 2;>B5?5@? @;/4A>/41?-:09;:-?@1>51? (;<81???A:.-@45:35?31: Two-pin adaptor, for use with all 1>-88E@;81>-@10.A@:A01 .-@45:35?;225/5-88E>1?@>5/@10 British appliances when in Greece @;-21C01?53:-@10.1-/41? :>1?@-A>-:@?@41?1>B5/1 >11/18571;@41>A>; /4->315?-8C-E?5:/8A0105: <1-:/;A:@>51?>A:?;: @41.588.A@@51?@588 B;8@? F%8A3?4-B1 -<<>1/5-@10G@41/A?@;95?@; @C;>;A:0<5:?;>@4>11

>11/1A?1?@4191@>5/ ?E?@19C5@4@C;?9-88 1D/1<@5;:??1-05?@-:/1?->1 1D<>1??105::-A@5/-89581? -:08-:05?91-?A>105: ! @411=A5B-81:@;2 -.;A@ 4- -/>1 Imperial to Metric

5:/4 /1:@591@>1? 2;;@ /1:@591@>1? 9581758;91@>1? ;A:/1 3>-9? <;A:03>-9? <5:@ 85@>1? 3-88;:85@>1? Metric to Imperial

9588591@>1 5:/41? /1:@591@>1 5:/41? 91@>1 211@ 5:/41? 758;91@>1 9581? 3>-9 ;A:/1? 758;3>-9 <;A:0? 85@>1<5:@?

DIRECTORY EMBASSIES IN GREECE Australia Kifissias and Alexandras, 11523 Athens. Tel 210 870 4000.

Canada Gennadíou 4, 11521 Athens. Tel 210 727 3400.

Republic of Ireland Vassiléos Konstantínou 7, 10674 Athens. Tel 210 723 2771/2.

New Zealand Kifissias 76, 11232 Athens. Tel 210 692 4136.

United Kingdom Ploutárchou 1, 10675 Athens. Tel 210 727 2600.

USA Vasilíssis Sofías 91, 10160 Athens. Tel 210 721 2951.

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HEALTH PRECAUTIONS

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Athens’ new international airport

Check-in desks at Athens’ new Elefthérios Venizélos Airport

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ATHENS’ AIRPORT

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) *,#0.)'*(#- -/"-Aegean Airways ( Interjet*,)0##(! -,0#-.1(."((-)') ."'$), #-&(-.#(.#)(-,- ), )'-.# &#!".-,.&-. )/&."+/#0&(./- $)/,(3),%&-- ,,3 .,#*#%.-(.#'.&- ), &3'*# &#!".-,0#&& ,)'(3&3'*##,13- ) ##(,),,) -1&&- ,)'')-.'$), .,0&!(#--,0.#)(- ,--(.#&#(*%--)( Athens’ new airport, designed in the blue and white national colours &3'*##,13-)*,.- #,. &#!".- ,)'."(-.) FLIGHT CONNECTIONS /.)(&3 ,)'1#."#(/,)* )0,.1))4(#-&(-( IN GREECE ,-).",#(.,(.#)(& ,)'"--&)(8%#.",, #,*),.-,-,03",.,- #,.&3'*# &#!".-.)(#( -1&&-"0#(!."&,!-. )(&3!#(')-.&3 ,)' ) ."#-&(-(/',) (/',) #(.,(.#)(& 1#."#(/,)* #(.,#-&(-,0#-)*,. &#!".-#(,."(-&-) /,#(!."-/'',()/. DOMESTIC FLIGHTS "-."')-.)((.#(!#, )4() ."- &3.",)/!" )/.."3, -,0#-.)."#-&(- )." ,-)'-.##,&#( -'&&#,*),.*,./, #(.,(.#)(&()'-.# .2#-",!)()'-.# (.1),%#-2.(-#0 &#!".-()1,,#0.( &#!".-) .1( (

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FLIGHT CONNECTIONS WITHIN GREECE

Corfu

ATHENS

Santoríni Rhodes

KEY International airport Domestic airport Air route

Crete (Chaniá) Crete (Irákleio)

Crete (Siteía)

ISLAND

DISTANCE

FLYING TIME

ISLAND

DISTANCE

FLYING TIME

Corfu

381 km (237 miles)

40 minutes

Crete (Chaniá)

318 km (198 miles)

45 minutes

Rhodes

426 km (265 miles)

45 minutes

Santoríni

228 km (142 miles)

40 minutes

Skýros

128 km (80 miles)

40 minutes

Kos

324 km (201 miles)

45 minutes

Skiáthos

135 km (84 miles)

30 minutes

Mýkonos

153 km (95 miles)

30 minutes

Límnos

252 km (157 miles)

45 minutes

Páros

157 km (98 miles)

35 minutes

DIRECTORY ATHENS AIRPORT

Air Canada

Interjet

Syngroú 5, 11741 Athens.

Elefthériou

Oxygen Travel

Elefthérios Venizélos – Athens International Airport

Tel 210 900 6081.

Venizélou 32,

Eslin 4,

www.aircanada.ca

16675 Athens.

Athens.

Air France

Tel 210 961 2050.

Tel 210 641 0881.

Leof. Vouliagménis 18,

www.interjet.gr

[email protected]

16674 Athens.

Olympic Aviation

5th km Spáta-Loutsa Ave., 10904 Spáta. Tel 210 353 0000. Fax 210 369 8883. www.aia.gr

OLYMPIC AIRWAYS Arrivals and Departures Tel 210 353 0000. ± 1440. Tel 801 11 44444 (reservations).

Athens Office Syngroú 96, 11741 Athens. Tel 210 926 9111.

Tel 210 960 1100. www.airfrance.com

Syngroú 96,

OLYMPIC AIRWAYS OFFICES ABROAD

British Airways

11741 Athens.

Vouliagménis &

Tel 210 356 9111.

Australia

Themistokleous

(reservations),

37–49 Pitt Street,

1, 16674 Athens.

(or via Olympic Airways).

Suite 303,

Tel 801 11 56000.

Level 3,

TRAVEL AGENCIES IN ATHENS

Underwood House,

American Express Travel Services

Sydney,

Mesoghion 318,

Canada

EasyJet

15341 Athens.

80 Bloor Street,

Tel 210 353 0300.

Tel 210 324 4975.

Suite 502, Toronto,

www.ba.com

Delta Airlines Elefthérios Venizélos Airport. Tel 210 331 1678. www.delta.com

Royal Exchange, NSW 2001. Tel (02) 9251 1047.

Crete Office

www.easyjet.com

Plateía Eleftherías, Irákleio. Tel 2810 288073.

KLM

Blue Star Ferries

Tel 210 911 0000.

Attica Premium,

Tel (416) 964 2720.

www.klm.com

Attica Posidonos,

UK

Singapore Airlines

Piraeus.

11 Conduit Street,

Xenofóntos 9, 10557

Tel 210 891 9550.

London

Athens.

Dolphin Hellas Travel

W15 2LP.

Syngroú 16,

(reservations).

Rhodes Office Tel 22410 24555.

Thessaloníki Office Kountouriótou 3, Thessaloníki. Tel 2310 368 311. www.olympic airlines.com

OTHER AIRLINES Aegean Airlines Leof. Vouliagménis 572, 16451 Athens. Tel 801 11 20000. www.aegeanair.com

Tel 210 372 8000. www.singapore air.com

PRIVATE AIRLINES (FOR DOMESTIC TRAVEL)

11742 Athens. Tel 210 922 7772/3. www.dolphin-hellas.gr

Ontario M5S F2V1.

Tel 0870 606 0460

USA Satellite Airlines Terminal, 125 Park Avenue,

Aviator

Ginis Vacances

Syngroú 179, 17564

3rd floor,

NY 10017.

Athens.

Ermoú 23–25,

Tel (212) 867 0970.

Tel 210 353 3713.

10563 Athens.

Tel 800 223 1226

www.aviator.gr

Tel 210 325 0401.

(reservations).

New York,

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FERRY TICKETS

Motorcyclists waiting for a ferry at the port of Piraeus

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GA Ferries

Minoan Lines

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+-2-0!7!*#1 "4,!# --) ',%'1-$2#,#11#,2'*,"'2 '115#**2- --)1#0*71 -+#-$2&#'1*,"1!, # .-11' *#"30',%&'%&1#1-, 0#!&#" 70##!#1 '!)#210# -3%&2$0-+, -01-&7"0-$-'*1&#+', %#,2-0-,2&#/371'"# 32 -.#02-010#Flying Dolphin 00#*7-, -0"2#11#* 03, 7',-,',#1," '21#*$ -32#10#0-3,"2&# Dodecanese Hydrofoils +',*,","#*-.-,,#1# 2&-3%&**&7"0-$-'*10# !-121,"2-'1*,"%0-3.1 ),-5,*-!**719*7',% !*-1#2-2&#+',*,":2&# -*.&',1;0#25'!# 0%-0-,'!%0-3.44-' 1$121 ,"2&#.-0"#1," $#007 321 2-1#4#0*'1*,"15'2&', 2&#7!*"#1�#0# !-,1#/3#,!#0# *1-0-32#1 #25##, "-3 *#2&#.0'!# &#+(-0"05 &-"#1',2&#-"#! !)-$&7"0-$-'*1'1 ,#1#,"<+-12 2-32�,#,"-$ 2&2+-124#11#*1 Catamaran 2&#-02&#12 #%#, -,*7$3,!2'-,',2&# 2+0,10#+-0# 13++#0+-,2&1,"0#-$2#, !,!#**#"'$5#2�!-,"'2'-,1 0#!#,2',,-42'-,',0##!# 0#.--0,$!2-,1#12&2 -$$#0',%,'0*',#27.#1#04'!# 0#,72&',%-2&,!*+ ',2#0+1-$1#2',% 0$!'* &7"0-$-'*10#/3'2#1*-5," '2'#1,"-, -0"2#*#4'1'-, !,.0-4# "'"#$-02&-1# 0#*1- #22#0"#1'%,#" .0-,#2-1#1'!),#11 $-0&,"'!..#".11#,%#01 7"0-$-'*1!,!!-++-"2# �#0#1#04'!#10-3,"2&# 0-3," .11#,%#01 32 -,', 1*,"1," -32&*$ "-8#,!2+0,1-.#02',% &4#,-0--+$-0!01-0 HYDROFOILS AND CATAMARANS

An excursion caïque on the Dodecanese island of Sými

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LOCAL INTERISLAND FERRIES

DIRECTORY UK & US AGENTS

,""'2'-,2-2&# *0%#$#00'#12&2 !-4#02&#+', 0-32#12�#0# 1+**#0$#00'#1 +)',%',2#0'1*," !0-11',%1',2&# 13++#0-!* $#00'#10#%0"*#11 -$1'8#0#13 (#!2 2-%-4#0,+#,2 .0'!#!-,20-*1 32 -21!&02#0#" 7 2-30'12%#,!'#1!, !&0%#5&22 Taxi boat travelling around the coast of Spétses *')#,"-$2#, .0-4##6.#,1'4# # -21"-&-5#4#0.0- ,"12+**#124#11#*10# 4'"#"'0#!2!-,,#!2'-,15&'!& +-12.0-,#2-!,!#**2'-,', "4#01#1#!-,"'2'-,1 1&-02!32!'0!3'2-310-32#14' +',*,".-021 2#,"2- #+-0##6.#,1'4# 2&,$#00'#1%'4#,2&-02 TAXI BOATS "'12,!#1',4-*4#" 32-$2#, .0-4'"#0-32#5�#$#5-0 6' -21-0!>/3#10# ,--20#4'* *# #4#,+-0#"&-!1'*',% -32#1,"'2',#00'#10# 22&#"'1!0#2'-,-$2&# -2 *-,%!-12*',#1,"+)',% -5,#01,"2&#-,*7.*!# 1&-0220'.1 #25##,"(!#,2 '1*,"10#313**7-,*7 2-"#2#0+',#'$-,#'1%-',% 4'* *#"30',%&'%&1#1-, 7-3057'122&#/371'"#

Hellenic Holidays 1501 Broadway, Suite 1512, New York, NY 10036. Tel (212) 944-8288.

Viamare Travel Ltd Graphic House, 2 Sumatra Rd, London NW6 1PU. Tel 020-7431 4560. www.viamare.com

HYDROFOIL AND CATAMARAN SERVICES Blue Star Ferries Attica Premium, Attica Posidonos, Piraeus. Tel 210 891 9550. www.bluestarferries.com

Dodecanese Hydrofoils Australias 3, 85100 Rhodes. Tel 22410 78052.

Flying Dolphin Goúnari 2, Piraeus. Tel 210 422 4775.

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HIGH-SEASON CATAMARAN AND HYDROFOIL ROUTES

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You have priority

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RULES OF THE ROAD ;2?2702<87=1.;201=27 ;..,.*7-@2=1=1. .A,.9=2878/<86.;>;*5+*,4 ;8*-<;8*-<207<,87/8;6=8

Rack of bikes for hire, at the beach in Kos town

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DIRECTORY MOTORING ORGANIZATIONS AA Continental Road Service Tel 0870 6000371 (in UK).

RAC Tel 08705 722722 (in UK).

ELPA (Ellinikí Léschi Periigíseon kai Aftokinítou) Passengers aboard a taxi truck on the island of Lipsí

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TRAVELLING BY BUS AND COACH

Front view of a local bus on the island of Nísyros

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TRAVELLING BY TRAIN

Ground Floor, Athens Tower, Mesogeíon 2–4, 11527 Athens. Tel 210 606 8800. Tel 10400 (road assistance).

CAR HIRE AGENCIES Avis Leofóros Amalías 48, 10558 Athens. Tel 210 322 4951.

Budget Syngroú 8, 11742 Athens. Tel 210 921 4771.

COACHES AND BUSES Eurolines c/o National Express Ltd, Ensign Court, 4 Vicarage Rd, Edgbaston, Birmingham B15, England. Tel 08705 808080 www.nationalexpress.com

Bus terminals in Athens

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Terminal A: Kifisoú 100 Tel 210 512 4910. Terminal B: Liosíon 260 Tel 210 832 9585. 1440 (coach timetable). www.ktel.org

TRAINS Rail Europe (InterRail) 178 Piccadilly, London W1, England. Tel 08705 848848. www.raileurope.co.uk

OSE (information & reservations) Karólou 1, Athens. Tel 210 529 7002. www.ose.gr

Train stations in Athens

The distinctive front end of an express train

Laríssis station Tel 210 823 1514. Peloponnísou station Tel 210 513 1601. 1440 (train timetable).

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