The Complete Home Veterinary Guide
THE COMPLETE HOME VETERINARY GUIDE Chris C. Pinney, DVM
Third Edition
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Copyright © 2004 by Chris C. Pinney. All rights reserved. Manufactured in the United States of America. Except as permitted under the United States Copyright Act of 1976, no part of this publication may be reproduced or distributed in any form or by any means, or stored in a database or retrieval system, without the prior written permission of the publisher. 0-07-143395-3 The material in this eBook also appears in the print version of this title: 0-07-141272-7 All trademarks are trademarks of their respective owners. Rather than put a trademark symbol after every occurrence of a trademarked name, we use names in an editorial fashion only, and to the benefit of the trademark owner, with no intention of infringement of the trademark. Where such designations appear in this book, they have been printed with initial caps. McGraw-Hill eBooks are available at special quantity discounts to use as premiums and sales promotions, or for use in corporate training programs. For more information, please contact George Hoare, Special Sales, at
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CONTENTS
Introduction
xix
Part I Dogs and Cats
1
Chapter 1
Chapter 2
History of the Dog History of the Cat
1 2
Choosing the Right Pet for You
5
Housing Considerations Pets and Children New Pets and Other Pets The Responsible Pet Owner Finding the Right Dog or Cat for You The Prepurchase Exam Petproofing Your Home Your Dog’s Outdoor Home Naming Your Pet Introducing Your Pet to Its New Home Special Considerations for Cats First Encounters Rules of Play
10 12 14 14 16 18 22 23 24 24 25 26 26
Training Essentials
29
Main Principles of Training Socializing and Desensitizing Your Pet Basic Training for Dogs Housebreaking Your Puppy Basic Training for Cats
30 33 37 41 43
v
vi
CONTENTS
Chapter 3
Chapter 4
Chapter 5
Chapter 6
Litter Training Your Kitten Solving Challenging Behaviors Canine Behavioral Disorders Feline Behavioral Disorders
44 45 45 58
Traveling with Your Dog or Cat
65
Traveling by Car Traveling by Air Vacation Planning
65 67 68
Preventive Health Care
71
At-Home Physical Exam Vaccinations and the ABCs of Immunity Controlling Internal Parasites Controlling Fleas and Ticks Preventing Heartworm Disease Dental Care Feeding Your Pet Battling Obesity in Dogs and Cats Caring for the Canine Ear Maintaining a Healthy Skin and Coat Nail Trimming Expressing Anal Sacs
71 72 81 82 87 89 92 100 105 108 112 114
Elective Surgeries in Dogs and Cats
115
The Facts Concerning Anesthesia Neutering Tail Docking and Dewclaw Removal (Dogs) Cosmetic Ear Trimming (Dogs) Declawing (Cats) Postsurgical Care for Dogs and Cats
115 117 119 120 121 123
Infectious Diseases
125
Infectious Diseases in Dogs Canine Distemper Parvovirus
125 125 129
CONTENTS
Chapter 7
Chapter 8
vii
Coronavirus Infectious Canine Hepatitis (ICH) Canine Contagious Respiratory Disease (CCRD) Herpesvirus Leptospirosis Rabies Bacterial Disease Ringworm and Fungal Disease Infectious Disease in Cats Parvovirus (Panleukopenia; Feline Distemper) Feline Infectious Peritonitis Enteric Coronavirus (EC) Feline Upper Respiratory Disease (URD) Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) Rabies Bacterial Disease Higher Bacterial and Fungal Disease
131 131 132 134 135 136 140 140 142 142 143 146 146 150 153 155 156 156
Parasitic Disease
159
Fleas Ticks Mites Tapeworms Roundworms Hookworms Whipworms Warbles Heartworms Coccidia Ehrlichiosis Lyme Disease Cytauxzoonosis Hemobartonellosis
159 160 161 164 166 169 171 172 173 178 179 181 182 182
The Immune System
185
Anatomy and Physiology Immunosuppression Allergies and Autoimmune Disease
186 189 189
viii
CONTENTS
Chapter 9
Chapter 10
Chapter 11
The Cardiovascular and Hemolymphatic Systems
191
Anatomy and Physiology Heart Disease and Heart Failure Arterial Thromboembolism (Cats) Anemia Bleeding Disorders
191 194 200 201 202
The Respiratory System
205
Anatomy and Physiology Rhinitis Nasal Foreign Bodies Nasopharyngeal Polyps (Cats) Tracheobronchitis (Dogs) Collapsed Trachea (Dogs) Feline Asthma Pleural Effusion Pneumonia Chronic Obstructed Pulmonary Disease (COPD) Metastatic Lung Disease
205 207 207 208 209 209 210 211 212 213 214
The Digestive System
215
Anatomy and Physiology Gastrointestinal Response to Disease and Treatment Disorders of the Teeth and Oral Cavity Esophageal Disorders Gastric Dilatation–Volvulus Complex (Dogs) Gastrointestinal Ulcers Hairballs (Cats) Hemorrhagic Gastroenteritis (Dogs) Intussusception Intestinal Obstructions Inflammatory Bowel Disease (IBD) Colitis Megacolon (Cats)
215 218 220 228 230 231 232 233 234 236 236 237 239
CONTENTS
Chapter 12
Chapter 13
Chapter 14
ix
Anal Sac Disease Pancreatitis Hepatitis and Liver Disease
239 241 243
The Urinary System
247
Anatomy and Physiology Kidney Disease Urinary Incontinence Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD) Canine Urolithiasis (Urinary Stones) Urinary Tract Infections
247 248 251 251 255 258
The Reproductive System
261
Anatomy and Physiology Accidental Mating (Mismating) False Pregnancy Eclampsia Vaginitis and Metritis Cystic Endometrial Hyperplasia (Pyometra) Phimosis and Paraphimosis (Dogs) Prostate Disorders
261 265 266 267 268 269 270 271
The Skin and Haircoat
273
Anatomy and Physiology The Itchy Pet Hair Loss (Alopecia) Seborrhea Acanthosis Nigricans (Dogs) Bacterial Skin Disease Miliary Dermatitis (Cats) Eosinophilic Granuloma Complex (Cats) Feline Acne Neurodermatitis (Cats) Solar Dermatitis Skin Lumps and Masses
273 274 281 284 285 285 289 290 291 292 292 293
x
CONTENTS
Chapter 15
Chapter 16
Chapter 17
The Eyes and Ears
297
The Eyes Anatomy and Physiology Corneal Ulcers Conjunctivitis Glaucoma Cataracts Keratoconjunctivitis Sicca (Dry Eye) Retinal Degeneration and Disease Prolapse of the Third-Eyelid Gland (Cherry Eye) Entropion Ectropion Masses Involving the Eyelids The Ears Anatomy and Physiology Otitis Externa Ear Mites Otitis Media and Interna Ruptured Eardrums Deafness Aural Hematomas
297 298 300 302 303 305 305 306 308 308 309 310 310 311 313 316 317 318 318 320
The Musculoskeletal System
321
Anatomy and Physiology Arthritis and Degenerative Joint Disease Patellar Luxation (Dogs) Torn Knee Ligaments (Cruciate Injuries) Hip Luxation Fractures Osteomyelitis Spondylosis Deformans (Dogs) Metabolic Bone Disease Mucopolysaccharidosis (Cats) Myositis and Myopathies Hernias
321 322 327 329 330 330 331 331 332 333 333 336
The Nervous System
339
Anatomy and Physiology Seizures Paralysis
339 341 344
CONTENTS
Chapter 18
xi
Degenerative Disk Disease (DDD) Vertebral Instability (Canine Wobbler Syndrome) Myelopathies Vestibular Disease Feline Hyperesthesia Syndrome Ischemic Encephalopathy (Cats)
344 349 349 350 351 352
The Endocrine System
353
Anatomy and Physiology Hypothyroidism (Dogs) Hyperthyroidism (Cats) Hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing’s Disease) Hypoadrenocorticism (Addison’s Disease) Diabetes Mellitus Diabetes Insipidus
353 355 357 359 361 363 366
Part II Birds
369
Chapter 19
Choosing the Right Bird for You
371
Factors to Consider Taming and Training Your Pet Bird Proper Nutrition Housing Your Pet Bird
371 379 381 384
Avian Anatomy and Physiology
389
The Digestive System The Respiratory System The Urogenital System “Sexing” Your Bird The Endocrine, Circulatory, and Nervous Systems The Musculoskeletal System The Integumentary System Vision and Hearing
389 390 391 392 393 393 394 396
Preventive Health Care
397
Preventing Injury or Accidental Poisoning Restraint
399 400
Chapter 20
Chapter 21
xii
CONTENTS
Chapter 22
Chapter 23
At-Home Physical Exam Nail Trimming Beak Care Feather Clipping Bathing
402 406 407 407 409
Avian Diseases and Disorders
411
Respiratory Tract Diseases Digestive System Disease Neurologic Disorders Cardiovascular Diseases Endocrine Malfunctions Eye Disorders Ear Problems Disorders of the Skin and Feathers Hormone-Induced Feather Loss Musculoskeletal Disorders Reproductive Disorders Infectious Diseases Bacterial Infections
412 414 418 419 420 420 421 421 425 427 429 430 433
General Treatment of Sick Birds
435
Care for Sick Birds Tube Feeding Hand-Raising Baby Birds Emergency and First Aid Procedures in Birds
435 436 440 441
Part III Exotic Pets
445
Chapter 24
Rabbits
447
Restraint Housing Nutrition Reproduction Preventive Health Care Diseases and Disorders
447 448 450 451 452 453
CONTENTS
Chapter 25
Chapter 26
Chapter 27
Chapter 28
Chapter 29
xiii
Guinea Pigs
457
Restraint Housing Nutrition Reproduction Preventive Health Care Diseases and Disorders
458 458 459 459 461 461
Hamsters and Gerbils
467
Restraint Housing Nutrition Reproduction Preventive Health Care Diseases and Disorders
468 469 470 471 472 472
Mice and Rats
477
Restraint Housing Nutrition Reproduction Preventive Health Care Diseases and Disorders
477 478 479 479 480 480
Chinchillas
483
Restraint Housing Nutrition Reproduction Preventive Health Care Diseases and Disorders
484 484 487 488 488 489
Prairie Dogs
493
Restraint Housing
495 495
xiv
CONTENTS
Chapter 30
Chapter 31
Chapter 32
Chapter 33
Nutrition Reproduction Preventive Health Care Diseases and Disorders
496 496 497 497
Hedgehogs
501
Restraint Housing Nutrition Reproduction Preventive Health Care Diseases and Disorders
502 503 504 504 505 505
Sugar Gliders
509
Restraint Housing Nutrition Reproduction Preventive Health Care Diseases and Disorders
510 510 511 512 512 512
Ferrets
515
Restraint Housing Nutrition Reproduction Preventive Health Care Diseases and Disorders
516 516 517 518 519 521
Miniature Pot-Bellied Pigs
525
Restraint Housing Training Nutrition Reproduction
526 527 527 527 528
CONTENTS
Chapter 34
Chapter 35
Chapter 36
xv
Preventive Health Care Diseases and Disorders
528 530
Reptiles
537
Care of Snakes Restraint Housing Nutrition Shedding Care of Lizards Restraint Housing Nutrition Care of the Pet Chelonian Restraint Housing Nutrition Preventive Health Care for Reptiles Diseases and Disorders
537 538 538 540 541 542 542 543 546 547 548 548 549 550 550
Amphibians
553
Restraint Housing Nutrition Preventive Health Care Diseases and Disorders
555 556 559 559 560
Invertebrates
563
Tarantulas and Scorpions Restraint Housing Nutrition Molting Preventive Health Care Hermit Crabs Restraint Housing Nutrition
563 564 566 568 568 569 569 570 570 571
xvi
CONTENTS
Chapter 37
Molting Preventive Health Care Diseases and Disorders of Invertebrates
572 572 572
Tropical Fish
575
Getting Started Water-Quality Control Selecting Fish for Your Aquarium Diseases and Disorders
577 580 584 587
Part IV Other Interesting Pet Topics Chapter 38
Chapter 39
Chapter 40
Chapter 41
First Aid for Dogs and Cats
593
The Five Goals of First Aid for Pets What to Do When You Encounter an Emergency Situation Planning for the Emergency General First Aid Procedures Addressing Immediate Life-Threatening Conditions Managing Trauma in Pets Managing Poisoning in Pets Other Common Emergencies in Pets
593
602 607 610 613
Caring for Injured and Orphaned Wildlife
633
Caring for Injured or Ill Wildlife Caring for Orphaned Wildlife
634 636
Geriatrics: Caring for Your Older Pet
641
Physical Challenges in Older Pets Saying Good-bye to an Older or Terminally Ill Pet Grieving for a Lost Pet
642 647 647
Increasing Your Pet’s Longevity
651
594 596 598
CONTENTS
Chapter 42
Chapter 43
Chapter 44
Chapter 45
Chapter 46
xvii
Reducing Stress and Promoting Mental Wellness in Dogs and Cats
657
Cancer in Companion Animals
663
Tumor Definition and Types Causes, Occurrence, and Diagnosis of Cancer in Pets Treating Cancer in Pets Specific Types of Neoplasia in Dogs and Cats
664 666 670 674
Zoonotic Diseases
685
Animal Bites and Scratches Rabies Intestinal Worms Heartworms Ringworm Infectious Diarrhea Toxoplasmosis Leptospirosis Flea- and Tickborne Illnesses Mites Psittacosis Control Summary
685 686 690 691 692 692 693 693 693 695 695 695
An Introduction to Holistic Pet Care
699
Botanical (Herbal) Medicine Nutritional Medicine Homeopathy Chiropractic Care Acupuncture
701 706 708 713 716
Ten Super Strategies for Reducing the Cost of Pet Ownership
723
xviii
CONTENTS
Appendix A Clinical Signs and Complaints in Dogs and Cats
733
Appendix B Medications for Dogs and Cats
749
Glossary
761
Index
779
INTRODUCTION
W
elcome to the Third Edition of The Complete Home Veterinary Guide, your one-stop resource for information on companion animal husbandry and health care. This Third Edition has been completely updated and contains many new and exciting features, including a newly formatted and expanded section on pet first aid, a glossary of veterinary terms, a listing of the most common drugs and medications prescribed for pets, a section on injured or orphaned wildlife, and much, much more! It’s no secret that pets are an integral part of our society today, as evidenced by the billions of dollars spent each year on food, supplies, housing, and pet care services. And of the over 60 million households that contain companion animals in this country alone, many are home to more than one pet, and oftentimes these pets are of differing species. Because of this, a resource was needed that contained information on a variety of companion animal species, all condensed into one easy-to-read volume. Hence, The Complete Home Veterinary Guide, a comprehensive, up-to-date guide to caring for companion house pets, was created. The Complete Home Veterinary Guide is loaded with illustrations and covers important topics concerning husbandry and health care for all popular species of pets. Written
xix
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INTRODUCTION
from a veterinary perspective, this book provides an objective “nutsand-bolts” look at pet care. It doesn’t matter if you own one pet or multiple species of pets, The Complete Home Veterinary Guide covers them all. Here are just a few of the subjects presented and questions answered in this expanded Third Edition: ■ Simple steps that you can take to improve your pet’s mental
health and well-being ■ Matching clinical signs and complaints to disease conditions in
dogs and cats ■ Ten strategies for reducing pet care costs that you can imple-
ment today ■ How to treat annoying behavioral problems in dogs and cats ■ Complementary medicine and holistic approaches to pet care ■ What to do if you find an injured or orphaned bird or wild animal ■ The vaccination controversy: What is a pet owner to do? ■ How to treat skin challenges without steroids ■ The universal warning signs of illness in pet birds ■ Vital
first-aid procedures, all of which could save your pet’s life someday
■ Seven ways to help our
pets live longer and healthier lives ■ Protecting your family and
yourself from zoonotic (petborne) diseases ■ The care and husbandry
of exotic pets, from sugar gliders to tarantulas
INTRODUCTION
xxi
■ How to maintain high
water quality in aquariums Part I of this book deals with dogs and cats. Information ranging from selecting a pet to preventing disease is covered in this section. Fighting fleas, managing allergies, and coping with various medical conditions such as arthritis and diabetes are just a few of the topics that will prove valuable to everone who owns one or more of these tried and true companions. The popularity of pet birds is quickly closing the gap on that of dogs and cats. Part II covers important information regarding the selection, housing, feeding, and preventive health care of pet birds, as well as select diseases and disorders. There are even sections on hand raising baby birds and on emergency and first aid procedures for our feathered friends. For those pet fanciers who prefer less conventional choices for companionship, Part III is where it’s at! This section deals with exotic or alternative pets, including rabbits, guinea pigs, small rodents, chinchillas, prairie dogs, hedgehogs, sugar gliders, ferrets, miniature potbellied pigs, reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates. For tropical fish lovers, there’s also a chapter on aquarium maintenance and disease prevention in fish.
xxii
INTRODUCTION
Part IV presents a variety of topics of interest to pet owners. You may have wondered how to administer cardiopulmonary resuscitation to a dog or cat, or what to do if your pet swallows a poison. Chapter 38 covers those and other important topics regarding emergencies and first aid procedures for dogs and cats. In fact, this could very well be the most important section of the book, since, in emergency situations, timing is of the essence. As a result, foreknowledge of the material presented in this chapter could very well save your pet’s life one day. Other interesting and useful information presented in this section includes caring for orphaned or injured wildlife, caring for the older pet,
INTRODUCTION
increasing your pet’s longevity, reducing stress and promoting mental wellness in pets, and understanding cancer in dogs and cats. The chapter covering zoonotic diseases, or diseases that can be transmitted from pets to people, is sure to open some eyes! Although the chances of transmission can be minimized through good preventive health care, many pet owners fail to realize the importance of such care. As a result, they can inadvertently place their health and, indeed, that of their families, in jeopardy. With the growth in popularity of holistic approaches to health care among people, it is no wonder that many satisfied followers are seeking such approaches for their pets. As a result, therapies such as acupuncture, herbal medicine, homeopathy, chiropractic, and nutritional medicine, as they relate to the health and wellbeing of our pets, are presented in Chapter 45. What you read may surprise you! Saving money seems to be first and foremost on
xxiii
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INTRODUCTION
everyone’s mind these days. And by following the 10 superstrategies suggested in Chapter 46 for reducing the cost of pet ownership, you’ll quickly realize that this book is one of the best investments you’ll ever make! Of course, despite all the information mentioned above, this book is not designed to replace quality veterinary care for pets, but rather to supplement it. If your pet is exhibiting signs of injury or illness, always consult your veterinarian. Remember: The sooner a correct diagnosis can be made by a qualified veterinarian, the greater the chances are for a successful treatment. Now get set for an informative voyage into the world of pets with The Complete Home Veterinary Guide as your tour leader. Regardless of your pet fancy, this book is sure to increase your “pet savvy” as well as enrich the relationship you have with your loving companion(s)!
PART
1
DOGS AND CATS A
ccording to a recent (as of 2003) study conducted by the American Veterinary Medical Association, there are over 110 million cats and dogs living in the United States alone. Pet owners spend billions of dollars each on veterinary medical services and supplies for their four-legged companions. And this figure does not even include the food they feed them! There is no doubt that, in American society at least, dogs and cats are here to stay.
History of the Dog For over 10,000 years, the dog has been an integral player in man’s social and cultural development. It’s blood and toil have helped humans discover new lands and build civilizations, and its use in war has helped topple the same. It has hunted alongside humans for centuries and has been hunted by man for food. As eyes for the blind and ears for the deaf, the dog has become an indispensable member of our modern society. But what really sets the dog apart from all the rest? Millions of dog lovers will agree that it’s the special loyalty and devotion the dog exhibits toward members of our own species—a characteristic that has justly earned it the proper title of “[hu]man’s best friend.”
1
2
DOGS AND CATS
DID YOU KNOW ?
The modern-day dog (Canis familiaris) descenDogs are believed to be the first ded from the wolf, with animals ever domesticated by humans. four distinct groups recognized. The first group, the dingo group, is descended from the wolves of Asia. Its members were dispersed throughout the Asian, African, and Australian continents. Modern-day descendants of this group include Rhodesian ridgebacks, basenjis, and the dingoes of Australia. One distinguishing characteristic of this group is that they don’t like to bark too much. A second group of dogs, the greyhound group, is believed to have evolved from wolves inhabiting the open plains of central Asia, Africa, and the Middle East. The oldest member of this group, the saluki, is thought to have originated prior to 1400 B.C.! Distinguishing features of the greyhound group include keen eyesight and incredible speed, two characteristics that the Egyptians found especially useful for hunting purposes. Besides the saluki, other modern representatives include the Afghan hound, the borzoi, and, of course, the greyhound. The Northern dog group is believed to have evolved from the large gray wolf of northern Europe. Generally regarded as one-master dogs, descendants of this group have been used for a variety of functions, including pulling sleds (Alaskan malamutes, Siberian huskies), hunting game (Norwegian elk hound), and guarding flocks (collies). A final group, the mastiff group, arose from wolves occupying the mountainous regions of Eurasia. Gifted with a keen sense of smell, members of this group were commonly used as war dogs and as hunting dogs. We still utilize the hunting skills of retrievers, setters, and pointers today. The mastiff, the St. Bernard, and the Great Pyrenees are a few of the more sizable members of this group.
History of the Cat Like the dog, the cat is thought to also have wolflike ancestors. The modern cat, Felis catus, is a direct descendent of Felis libyca, the African wildcat, and Felis sylvestris, a European wildcat with a tabbylike appearance.
DOGS AND CATS
3
Interestingly, over the years, the domestic cat has undergone only limited selective breeding. As a result, it has the closest ties to its “wild” ancestors when compared to other domesticated animals. Evidence of this phenomenon can be seen in the similar size and anatomic features of all cats. Except for variations in characteristics such as muzzle and coat length and color, different breeds of cats generally look alike. Compare this, if you will, to the dog, which comes in a multitude of sizes, shapes, and varieties, all brought on by selective breeding. Cats first associated with humans back in the Stone Age, where they probably hung around camp for food scraps and leftovers. It was not until ancient Egyptian times that humans and felines became true companions. Cats were used to hunt birds and catch fish for the Egyptians, and to rid their granaries of rats and mice. So revered did the cat become in early Egyptian society that goddesses were fashioned after its image, and separate burial grounds were set aside for the mummified remains of those felines that departed from this world. As the world trade routes opened up and the high seas became an important means of interaction between countries and peoples, the cat spread throughout the civilized world. Longhaired varieties soon developed, and became highly favored in the European community until the Dark Ages, when superstition began to run rampant and cats became symbols of evil and witchcraft. They quickly lost their preferred status, and the European cat population fell into decline. Unfortunately, when the Crusaders returned from the Holy Land carrying plague-laden brown rats with them on their ships, there were few cats around to meet this threat. As the bubonic plague devastated Europe, the importance of the predatory nature of the cat increased, and numbers were soon back on the rise. As they regained their status in society, cats found their way back into the farmers’ granaries and into the courts of royalty. DID YOU KNOW To this day, in the eyes of millions of cat fanciers, The first evidence of feline domesticathey still command a royal tion dates back over 9000 years! status in our society!
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CHAPTER
1
Choosing the Right Pet for You B
ecause dogs and cats come in all types of shapes, sizes, colors, coat lengths, and personalities, how do you know which one is going to be just right for you and for your particular situation? Here are several questions you should be asking yourself before you take the plunge: Why do I want a pet and what type do I want? Is it going to be an indoor pet or an outdoor pet? How will this pet interact with my children or other pets in the household? Am I willing to devote the time and money needed to raise this pet? If you are simply looking for companionship, then you need only to choose a furry individual
FIGURE 1.1
Dogs are believed to be descended
from wolves.
5
6
DOGS AND CATS
DID YOU KNOW ?
that strikes your fancy. Both purebreds and those Over 95 percent of felines in the of “questionable ancestry” United States are hybrids! can make great pets, and the decision concerning genetic purity is entirely up to you (Figs. 1.1 and 1.2). If you choose to go the purebred route, expect to pay more up front for your purchase. In addition, you run greater risk of facing genetic disorders inherent to that particular breed. Being very cautious and prudent in your selection process can minimize this risk. If you are like many pet lovers, you might be less finicky about a lengthy pedigree and instead prefer a pet with a more mysterious gene pool. In fact, there are several advantages to owning mixed-breed dog and cats (also known as domestic shorthairs, domestic mediumhairs, and domestic longhairs). First, because of their diluted, colorful ancestries, they exhibit a unique genetic phenomenon known as hybrid vigor. Because of hybrid vigor, genetically blended pets, as a group, tend to be healthier and live longer than their purebred cousins. Another obvious advantage of choosing a hybrid is F I G U R E 1 . 2 Cats can be just as social and loving as dogs. that they cost less to purchase than do their papered peers. Ask yourself, “What F A C T OR F I C T I O N type of purebred breed(s) do I A dog with AKC “papers” is of higher like best?” Then start looking quality than one without papers. F I C in newspapers, pet stores, F I C T I O N . Because the AKC has no and pounds and other animal real regulatory enforcement of quality shelters for crosses that constandards outside its sanctioned tain the genes of your favored events, purchasing a pet with “papers” breed. In many instances, the is not a guarantee of quality. genetic makeup of the par-
CHOOSING THE RIGHT PET FOR YOU
7
ents is not known, yet you can usually guess the genetic background of the candidate by its anatomic features or by its behavior. For instance, let’s say you notice that a dog’s ears stand erect, yet are folded halfway. There is a good chance that this mystery breed is part terrier. Does the dog enjoy lounging around in its water dish? It could contain some retriever blood. Does the cat appear to be slightly cross-eyed? No doubt it is part Siamese. Odds are that the individual you encounter will be a cross between one or more of this country’s top 10 most popular dog or cat breeds. Of course, space limitations will play an important role in the type of dog or cat you’ll ultimately choose. For example, apartment dwellers will usually want to limit themselves to a cat or small dog, whereas those with larger living spaces will have more options. However, there are exceptions to every rule! F I G U R E 1 . 3 Companionship is the number one Are you looking for an reason for dog ownership. exercise companion (Fig. 1.3)? If so, you will want to DID YOU KNOW choose a dog breed with a The excellent tracking skills of hunting stride length and aerobic dogs arise in part from their ability to capacity that won’t slow detect distinct volatile fatty acids you down. On the other located on the surface of game or left hand, you might want a cute over on the ground, brush, and/or trees. lap warmer just to keep you
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8
DOGS AND CATS
company. If so, a cat or toy poodle will fulfill that need quite nicely. If you are in the market for a hunting dog, there are many from which to choose (Fig. 1.4). Setters, pointers, retrievers, hounds, and spaniels come in a wide variety of types, shapes, sizes, and abilities. For upland game hunting, setters, pointers, and spaniels fit the bill. For waterfowl, retrievers won’t hesitate to plunge into the water to retrieve a fallen bird. For tracking larger game, one of the keen-scented hound F I G U R E 1 . 4 As hunting partners, dogs have no breeds might be what you equals! require. Some hunting dogs will do it all! Keeping your particular needs in mind, research your options thoroughly, and talk with local gun club, hunting club, and/or breed club members to assist you in the decision-making process. Perhaps you want a dog for protection purposes. If you envision your new acquisition roaming your backyard, lunging and snarling at anyone or anything that approaches your gate, then forget it. Obtaining a dog under such pretenses is only asking for trouble (and a lawsuit), and is heartily discouraged. If, on the other hand, you plan to treat your dog as a true companion and household member, as well as protector, then your qualifications for ownership are acceptable. It stands to reason that an 85-pound rottweiler with glistening white teeth would certainly be more imposing to an intruder than would an 11-pound Lhasa apso (not that the latter wouldn’t tear into the former— Lhasa apsos were originally bred for this purpose)! However, it is instinctive that all dogs, regardless of breed or size, will actively defend
CHOOSING THE RIGHT PET FOR YOU
9
pack members (and, like it or F A C T OR F I C T I O N not, you are a pack member) Cats are loners by nature.F FI CI CT TI OI ONN . or territory if threatened. Research has shown that feral cats, If you want your dog to proespecially females, will actually exhibit tect you, it is important that pack behavior similar to dogs, groomit recognize what does and ing and taking care of one another! does not constitute a threat. Only about 15 percent of cats will And this is where profesrefuse to socialize at all with humans. sional protection training will come in handy. All dogs to be used for protection purposes must be properly socialized with people. Military and police dogs are perfect examples. These dogs are trained to attack on command only. Off duty, most are gentle as lambs. This is how your dog should be. This will not only ensure your safety and that of your family and friends but also might prevent a lawsuit! Remember: A socialized dog can be a great protector; an unsocialized dog is downright dangerous! Unless you are planning to become (or are already) a professional breeder, don’t purchase a dog or cat with visions of large profits from the sale of future litters. Most novices find out quickly that breeding operations, if done correctly and humanely (as they should always be), represent a considerable investment in time and money. Be sure to find out what these investments are prior to plunging into the pet breeding business. If you are a novice, confine your efforts to one of the more popular breeds rather than to some exotic, delicate breed. As a rule, you’ll be rewarded with larger litters and fewer problems with dystocia (difficult or complicated birthing). In addition, the more popular the breed, the greater the demand will be for the offspring, resulting in greater financial rewards. But breeder beware: When selecting your initial breeding stock, closely scrutinize the pedigree of the dog or cat in question. All that it takes is one genetic defect to appear in one or more of the offspring, and your reputation as a breeder could be shattered! For many, the pleasure of dog or cat ownership is compounded by the thrill of competition in the field or show ring (Fig. 1.5). Thousands of events are sanctioned each year by national, state, and local clubs
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FIGURE 1.5
The thrill of competition.
that bring owners and their performers in from all over the country. Breeders are motivated by these events as well, for earning a reputation for producing show champions is rewarding not only to the ego but also to the pocketbook.
Housing Considerations Where are you planning to house your new pet? Hopefully, your answer is “indoors.” For some reason, many cat owners are under the false impression that a cat cannot be happy unless it is roaming free outdoors. Although this might have been the standard of thinking years back, it is
CHOOSING THE RIGHT PET FOR YOU
?
11
time that cat owners change DID YOU KNOW their attitudes toward this The average cat will sleep well over subject. Aside from the half its life away. obvious health hazards to outdoor cats, such as car fenders and fan belts, hostile dogs, hostile humans, and infectious diseases, there is another important reason: an increased threat of zoonotic disease transmission. As a result, although it is fine to allow your cat to spend some time outside, it should spend the majority of the day (and all of the night) inside. Dogs raised as housepets will respond more favorably to training and generally have less behavioral problems than those that are perpetually banished to the backyard from day 1. This is because dogs crave the attention and company of people, and, in most instances, a backyard existence does not fulfill this need. Problem behaviors and disobedience frequently result from such discontent. In decisions regarding the housing of dogs, excitability, size, and coat length are certainly three important considerations (Fig. 1.6). As a rule, the more excitable the dog, the more attention that dog will crave. Isolate an excitable dog in a backyard away from human contact, and you are just begging for behavioral problems. At the same time, selecting a large dog for a housepet and failing to housetrain or command-train it properly could lead to some very disturbing and destructive confrontations. If you are not willing to devote the time to properly train an indoor dog, you should stick to one of the smaller breeds in order to limit the damage that is bound to befall your carpet and furniture! Depending on the type of climate in which you live, haircoat length becomes an important factor to consider when deciding on indoors versus outdoor housing. In colder climates, dogs with long coats and dense undercoats can withstand the outdoor chill much better than can their shorthaired counterparts. Conversely, dogs such as the Siberian husky and the chow chow may have a difficult time coping with southern heat without the benefits of air conditioning. Outdoor dogs with long haircoats will also require more grooming time and effort to keep their coats healthy than if they were housed indoors. Are you willing to devote this time each day? If not, either select a dog with a shorter coat, or plan on housing your dog indoors.
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F I G U R E 1 . 6 Dogs with long coats and/or thick undercoats should not be housed outdoors in hot climates.
If you plan on housing a dog outside when it becomes an adult, be sure that it is housetrained as a puppy. That way, if the need ever arises to bring the dog indoors, it will be easier (and certainly more sanitary) to accomplish such a conversion.
Pets and Children Dogs and cats can serve as great teachers to educate children about responsibility and unconditional love! However, wait until your children are at least 5 years old before acquiring a new pet. Younger children, some of who might just be starting to crawl or walk, stand a greater chance of being accidentally hurt or scratched by a housepet
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13
than do older children. On the contrary, older children are better equipped to learn about and/or undertake responsibilities associated with pet ownership, and can become active participants in the care of the new family member. When selecting a pet for a child, choose one with an outgoing personality, one that can stand up to the rigors of ownership by a child (Fig. 1.7). Shy, introverted puppies and kittens rarely satisfy the energy requirements of children. Such pets might be difficult to socialize and could turn aggressive if mentally traumatized by an overzealous child. With dogs, medium to medium-large breeds are FIGURE 1.7 Dog ownership is an excellent way to teach children about responsibility and uncondipreferred for children. tional love! Small dogs and toy breeds, because of their small stature, are more susceptible to accidental injury at the hands and feet of young ones. They are also more likely to become aggressive if mishandled. On the other hand, while one of the giant breeds can be gentle as a lamb, such a pet could still pose a significant health threat to your child because of its sheer mass. Personality features to look for in dogs include low aggressiveness, high tolerance, and low excitability. Golden retrievers are a favorite among parents, owing to their reputation for gentleness with children. Basset hounds, Labrador retrievers, and collies are also popular picks for children. Finally, when purchasing a puppy or kitten, limit your selection to one that is between 8 and 12 weeks old. Because socialization
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naturally occurs during this time, a greater bond will form between it and your child.
New Pets and Other Pets Before bringing home a new dog or cat, consider your other pets that are already in your household. Jealousies or incompatibilities (e.g., cats and birds) could arise that need to be anticipated ahead of time. Be sure the new addition has been properly socialized to other pets, and vice versa! For example, if your existing dog is the type that attacks anything that barks or moves on four legs, it might do the same to your new arrival. Unsocialized dogs and cats (and even some that are properly socialized) might refuse to accept another of their kind into their territory without a fight. All newcomers should be gradually introduced to existing pets one day at a time. Keep your new pet in a separate room or enclosure, allowing initial interactions to take place only under your direct supervision. These gradual encounters should eventually help break the ice between the two and help establish a social pecking order within your furry family.
The Responsible Pet Owner Pet ownership comes with major responsibilities in terms of both time and money. For instance, dogs are pack animals and crave attention from their human pack members (Fig. 1.8). Certainly one of the easiest ways to upset a dog is to habitually ignore it. In fact, this lack of owner attention underlies many of the problem behaviors seen in dogs. Regardless of whether you keep your dog indoors or outdoors, consider how much quality time you will be able to spend with it each day. If your projections are low because of your job or other commitments, two dogs are often better than one. The company that one provides the other while you are away can be an effective substitute for your affections. Another factor to consider with a dog is how much time you will have to devote to training. It cannot be stressed enough how important this is to your future relationship with your dog. One major cause of
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FIGURE 1.8
15
Dogs are pack animals, and they crave attention.
owner dissatisfaction is an unruly pet. As a result, training is definitely one aspect of pet ownership that should never be neglected. Reduced time requirement is a major reason for the increasing preference for cats over dogs as pets. Cats are indeed fairly self-sufficient, seemingly needing only food, water, a clean litterbox, and very little training. While this is true in many instances, you are still not off the hook! All cats still need a daily dose of attention and grooming. The financial aspects owning a dog or cat, including food, supplies, training, and veterinary care, can cost hundreds of dollars each year, and that’s assuming that it stays healthy (see Chap. 46). Are you willing
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DID YOU KNOW ?
to accept financial responsibility for your pet’s preA dog and cat that are correctly ventive health care or for socialized to one another can become treatment in an event of best of buddies, whereas the same an injury or illness? If not, two animals, if socialization does not you are not ready for pet occur, often become bitter enemies! ownership. On a final note, although your intentions might be pure, never surprise someone with a new dog or cat unless you are positively, absolutely sure that they want one in the first place. Think about it: Your gift to them includes not only that furry bundle of energy but also a hearty commitment to training, time, and money (Fig. 1.9). Unfortunately, too many people do fail to think F I G U R E 1 . 9 Plan on brushing your dog every about it that way, and as a day! result, our nation’s pounds and shelters are overflowing with unwanted pets turned in by disgruntled or disinterested gift recipients. As a result, it is always best to allow other people to come to a decision about pet ownership by themselves, and not to force it on them by your good intentions. Believe me, everyone will be happier in the long run!
Finding the Right Dog or Cat for You Once you have decided on a particular type of dog or cat, now is the time to start your search. Newspapers, pet stores, veterinary hospitals, the Internet, and word of mouth are all fruitful avenues for information. If you’re not interested in a registered pet, check with the local humane
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society or animal shelter in DR. P’S VET TIP your area. These are excelTo determine the age of lent places to start and a young kitten, use a are often jam-packed with scale. Kittens under 6 months of age canines and felines of all will usually gain about a pound per types, all eager to be adopted month of life. For instance, a 3-monthinto happy homes. Usually, old kitten usually weighs around 3 one can be yours to love for pounds, and a 4-month-old kitten will only a nominal adoption fee. generally weigh in at about 4 pounds. As an added benefit, you will feel good knowing that you’ve saved an unwanted pet from an uncertain future. If a purebred fits your fancy, check pet stores or contact breeders, preferably within your area. Local veterinarians and groomers can often provide specific recommendations. Magazines catering to dog and cat owners can also be excellent reference sources for professional breeders. Finally, shows and other competitive events provide a means of giving you a firsthand glimpse of the cream of the crop and can give you the opportunity to meet prominent breeders in person. Before you go shopping, do your homework. Find out what the going rate is for the particular breed you want. Beware of the smalltime operator who advertises or offers you a great deal on a “registered” pup. These so-called great deals can end up costing you more in the long run in medical bills and emotional drain. Where quality counts, stick with reputable breeders who can provide you with the complete pedigrees of both parents and references of satisfied clients. This rule holds true for pet store purchases as well. Before buying from a pet store, ask where the puppy or kitten came from and who the breeder was. Ask to see the pedigrees of both parents. Reputable pet stores will have all this information readily available for your inspection. And don’t hesitate to ask for references from satisfied customers. If the store is unwilling or unable to divulge such information, look elsewhere. Whatever you do, don’t rush your decision. Remember that you are making a long-term commitment. Take your time, and pick out that special individual just right for you!
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The Prepurchase Exam Once you think you’ve finally found the perfect companion, now what? For starters, you want to be sure you are getting a healthy specimen. Be sure to inquire as to vaccination and deworming history. You might be told that all of the “shots” and dewormings have been given. This might be true, but don’t hesitate to ask for, in writing, dates and names of products used. Your veterinarian can then review this list for completeness during the professional prepurchase exam. Even before your veterinarian gets involved, you should perform your own prepurchase exam on the prospect. It is easy to do on site and will help illuminate many problems that might otherwise elude the untrained eye. 1. Environment. For starters, take note of the surrounding environment in which the puppy or kitten is being kept. Does it look and smell clean, or is it filthy, with uncleaned litterboxes or urine and feces lying all around? If the latter is true, you should question the integrity of the seller. Observe all the individuals in the litter or group. Do any appear sickly, depressed, or otherwise unhealthy? An infectious disease can run rampant through such a congregation of young dogs and cats, and it could be just beginning to rear its ugly head within the group. 2. Attitude. Now focus your attention on the actual candidate. Start with overall attitude. Does it appear active and healthy, or is it lethargic and depressed? Are breathing problems evident? Does it seem friendly and outgoing to people and to the other animals in the group, or does it seem shy and introverted? Dogs and cats destined to be good pets should take an instant fancy to people, and should outwardly display this affection. At the same time, avoid those individuals with overbearing and domineering personalities. Observe how your favorite treats other members of its group. Domineering personalities are usually quite evident. As a general rule, choose one that is “middle of the road”—not too domineering yet not too shy. 3. Skin and coat. Once attitude and personality have been evaluated, check out the skin and coat. Any fleas or ticks present? How about any hair loss, scabs, or signs of infection? These could be indicators of diseases such as mange or ringworm, both of which can be zoonotic. Cats
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especially are meticulous self-groomers. As a result, an unkempt haircoat could signify parasitism or some other underlying health disorder. 4. Lumps, bumps, or swellings. Run your hands over the umbilical area and, on both sides, over the points where the inner thighs connect with the abdominal wall. Do you notice any soft, fluctuant masses? These could be herniations. Run you hands over the entire body surface, feeling for other types of lumps and bumps. Note the location of any you find. Does the belly seem distended (swollen)? If so, it could be full of food, or it could be full of worms. Check beneath the tail, looking for tapeworm segments and for evidence of diarrhea. Soiling on and around the hair in this area should tip you off to a potential intestinal disorder. 5. Other anatomical considerations. Observe leg conformation and the way the puppy or kitten walks and runs. Any obvious deformity and/or lameness should be noted. In male dogs, check for descent of the testicles. Both testicles should be present at birth. If they aren’t, be prepared to neuter at a later date, not only for health reasons but also to prevent the passage of this inheritable trait to future generations. Fortunately, cryptorchidism is rare in cats. 6. Head region. Now focus in on the head region. Using your eyes and your nose, check the ears for discharges or strong odors (usually a sign of infection). Both eyes should be free of matter, with no cloudiness or redness. Compare both eyes, making sure that they are of the same size, and that the pupils are of the same diameter. Glance at the nose, noting any discharges or crusts. Finally, look into the mouth. The gums should be pink. If they are white, the dog or cat could be anemic. Look for any severe underbites or overbites, or any missing teeth. Also glance at the roof of the mouth. Cleft palate is a serious birth defect (see Table 1.1), and unless it is surgically corrected, it will lead to secondary aspiration pneumonia and ultimately death.
Consulting a Veterinarian Let’s say you’ve completed the exam described above and have found some potential problem areas. What do you do next? First, don’t get discouraged. Many of these conditions have quick, inexpensive solutions. This is where a veterinarian comes in handy.
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Table 1.1 Congenital or Inherited Disorders in Dogs* Eyes
Microphthalmia (small eyes) Juvenile cataracts Entropion/ectropion Glaucoma Prolapsed third eyelid Tear duct deformity
Ears
Congenital deafness
Nervous system
Epilepsy Brain underdevelopment Hydrocephalus Invertebral disk disease
Integument
Umbilical hernia Inguinal hernia Demodectic mange
Digestive system
Cleft palate Abnormal dentition Overbite or underbite
Musculoskeletal system
Dwarfism Joint dislocations Patellar luxation
Cardiovascular system
Blood-clotting disorders Heart murmurs Anemia
Respiratory system
Collapsed trachea
Reproductive system
Retained testicles (cryptorchidism)
*For ethical purposes, all pets with congenital or inherited disorders should be neutered.
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Don’t feel awkward about asking the seller to pick up the tab (pay) for a professional prepurchase exam [and for cats, feline leukemia virus (FeLV) and feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV) testing] by a veterinarian of your choice. Sellers who are confident in the quality of their pets should have no qualms about this. If they balk, a warning light should flash in your head. And don’t get suckered into a “moneyback” or “lifetime” guarantee on a pet as an alternative to a professional prepurchase screen. Such a guarantee doesn’t protect you against the emotional distress caused by having to return a pet to which you’ve already grown attached. Follow your veterinarian’s recommendations as to the purchase quality of the dog or cat in question. If the one you have your heart set on does have medical problems that can be easily corrected, ask the seller to deduct these costs from the purchase price. They aren’t obligated but by character to do so; as a result, you must decide on your next move if they refuse or fail to compromise. The extra expense (including cost of supplies and required documents in addition to initial purchase price of the pet; see Tables 1.2 and 1.3) out of your own pocketbook might be worth it if you think you have truly found the pet of your dreams! You be the judge.
Table 1.2 Supply Checklist for Your New Cat Food and water bowl
Brush
Cat (kitten) food
Comb
Collar or harness
Bed or cathouse
Leash
Travel kennel
Claw trimmers
Flea control products
Identification tag
Scratching post
City license (if required)
Toothbrush/paste
Proof of rabies vaccination
Toys
Litterbox
Heartworm preventive agent
Litter
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Table 1.3 Supply Checklist for Your New Dog
Petproofing Your Home
If you choose to allow your new pet to have the run of Dog (puppy) food Comb the house, be sure to take Collar Bed or doghouse proper steps to petproof your home. For instance, Leash Travel kennel keep all electrical cords well Training lead and Nail trimmers out of reach. This might rope mean banishing your playIdentification tag Ear cleanser ful pet from certain areas of the house, but it is a minor City license Toothbrush/paste inconvenience compared to (if required) a potentially fatal accident. Proof of rabies Toys Puppies especially love to vaccination chew, and electrical cords Heartworm Flea control products can be mighty appetizing. preventative Puppies explore with their mouths, and will pick up anything. Keep everything that’s not a toy out of reach, including spare change. Also, be careful when putting out cockroach or rat poisons, as these can attract curious mouths. You will probably want to confine unsupervised puppies to noncarpeted floors until proper housetraining has been accomplished. Even so-called stain-resistant carpets can buckle under the strain of repeated bombardments. Keep all plants out of reach. Many dogs and cats love to chew on foliage, and if they decide to F A C T OR F I C T I O N nibble on a harmful ornamented variety of plant, they Cats love to play with strings and ribbons. F A C T . Unfortunately, string could poison themselves. foreign body intestinal obstructions Cats will also enjoy using are relatively common feline medical potting soil as litter, and cat emergencies seen by veterinarians. As urine has the unique ability a result, keep these items well out of to quickly dispatch even the reach of your cat! heartiest of house plants! Food and water bowls
Brush
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Cats love to jump onto ledges, windowsills, and furniture. As a result, be sure all opened windows are screened, and that all lamps, pictures, and collectibles are secured. Open washers/dryers, drawers, high ledges or balconies, hot irons on ironing boards, and stovetop burners left on can all be insidious dangers to your cat’s health. Pins, needles, rubber bands, yarn, string, ribbons, aluminum foil, cellophane, and holiday tinsel are just a few items that could cause serious health problems if eaten by dogs or cats. Inquisitive cats have been known to get their heads lodged within open cans and jars, and because cats possess a strange attraction to bags of all types, plastic bags can become death traps if entered.
Your Dog’s Outdoor Home No doubt there will undoubtedly be special situations which prohibit the indoor dwelling of a grown dog. In these instances, outdoor accommodations provided for your pet must take into account its comfort and well-being. Remember that dogs get hot and cold just as we do, and when housed outdoors, need to be provided a means of protection against extremes in the weather. Your friend is entitled to a sturdy, well-insulated shelter. The doghouse should be positioned in a relatively shady area of the yard, and should also be elevated a few inches off of the ground using bricks or wood to prevent flooding in the event of a rainstorm. Ideally, the shelter should have a short, enclosed porch which leads into the main house. This will help keep wind drafts from penetrating into the main living area. The main living quarters should be large enough to allow your dog to turn around comfortably within, yet confined enough to provide it a sense of security and to concentrate heat during cold winter days. Finally, a ramp should be included to allow your dog easy access into its elevated home. If you build the doghouse yourself, select sturdy building materials, remembering that they must be able to withstand constant punishment from teeth and claws. If fiberglass insulation is to be used, make certain that it remains well contained and sealed within the walls and roof, since such material can cause severe gastrointestinal upset if swallowed.
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If you plan on further confining your dog to a pen or run, use a smooth concrete or quarry tile as flooring on which to place the doghouse. Although such surfaces may not be the most comfortable for your pet, they are the most sanitary and easy to clean. Floors consisting of grass, sand, pebbles, and/or just plain dirt only serve to trap and accumulate filth and disease, and should be avoided. The fence surrounding the enclosure should be made of wire chain link and be tall enough to prevent escape. Exposed metal points from the chain links at the top of the fencing material should not extend above the metal support bar in order to prevent injuries if your dog does try to jump. The same rule applies for the bottom perimeter of the fence as well, just in case your dog tries to squeeze its way out.
Naming Your Pet Naming your new pet should be fun and involve the entire family. You can even find entire books dedicated to choosing the right name for your dog or cat at your favorite bookstore. When deciding on a name, stick to one that has two syllables. This is especially important for dogs, enabling them to tell the difference between their name and those one-syllable commands they must learn. You can further set its name apart from potential commands or reprimands by adding a vowel sound to the end of it. Just be creative!
Introducing Your Pet to Its New Home You will want to do everything in your power to make your new pet feel comfortable and secure in its new home. Establish an area in the house that your pet can call its own, and completely petproof it. When you first get your pet home, introduce it to its special room immediately. Allow it some time to scope out the new surroundings, including the sleeping accommodations you have provided. This should include a cushioned bed, basket, or travel kennel. For kittens, cardboard or plastic boxes work just fine, assuming that easy access into these enclosures is provided. Be sure that your pet’s
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sleeping area is in a part of the house far from noise and other disturbances.
Special Considerations for Cats Your cat’s litterbox should also be placed in an area in the house where interruptions are not likely to occur. For very small kittens, an aluminum pan or shallow tray may be used; for larger kittens and adult cats, your standard plastic varieties available from a pet shop work just fine. Avoid using boxes or other cardboard devices for a litterbox. Not only do they have a tendency to leak, but their porous nature is most unsanitary to your cat. Covered litterboxes have the advantage of keeping the litter from being strewn across the floor—assuming, of course, that your cat feels comfortable enough to enter such an enclosure! Try to match the type of litter used in your cat’s previous home, but be sure that it is dust-free. Also, avoid products containing chlorophyll to mask odors, as this substance can irritate your cat’s nose and prevent it from using the box. Fill the box with about 11Ⲑ2 inches of litter. For sanitation purposes as well as aesthetics within the house, make a habit of scooping out solids from your cat’s litterbox on a daily basis. (Note: Pregnant women should pass this duty on to someone else, in order to reduce their risk of exposure to toxoplasmosis.) Both coarse-grained and fine-grained (“clumping”) litters can be spot-cleaned daily without having to dump out the entire box. However, regardless of litter type used, litterboxes should be emptied completely and cleaned with soap and water at least once a week to maintain sanitary conditions and to control odor. Unless you plan to have your cat declawed at a young age, you will also need to invest in a good scratching post to spare your furniture and fixtures from the ravages of your cat’s claws. Clawing comes naturally to cats, which use such behavior to keep their nails in top condition and to mark their territory. The scratching post should be made of sturdy material and be heavy enough or braced so that it doesn’t fall
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over when the cat attempts to scratch. A sturdy piece of soft wood is ideal for this purpose. Other commercial varieties can be obtained from a local pet store. Avoid those posts lined with thick, compliant carpet, as this might not satisfy your cat’s needs, causing it to look elsewhere for a surface that will.
First Encounters Your new pet’s first encounters with the rest of your family are important. Be sure that initial introductions, be they with children or other adults in the family, turn out to be positive ones. Carefully supervise child-pet interactions, and stress to your children the importance of gentle play and handling. Instruct your children and other adults on the proper way to pick up and hold a new puppy or kitten. Pets should not be picked up solely by the front legs or by the neck. Instead, the entire body should be picked up as one unit, with the hind end supported, not left dangling in midair. Picking a cat up by grasping the skin over the back of the neck is acceptable as long as the hind end is supported as well. If they had it their way, most children, and some adults, for that matter, would choose to play with a new puppy or kitten 24 hours a day. However, you need to stress the importance of a rest time after periods of play, and lay down strict ground rules against disturbing the pet during this downtime (Fig. 1.10).
Rules of Play
FIGURE 1.10
Puppies need their rest, too.
Puppies and kittens love to play. In fact, it’s part of their normal behavioral development. However, realize that there is a right way and a wrong way to go about it. Follow these “rules of play” to be sure that your approach is the correct one.
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For dogs, toys should be made of nylon, rawhide, or hard rubber. Of the three materials, hard nylon or compressed rawhide is most desirable because it is most easily digested if swallowed. Regular rawhides, pig ears, and similar substances are fine if the dog takes its time and chews slowly. For those dogs that don’t take the time to chew, avoid giving these items altogether because they can cause serious stomach upset and even intestinal blockage if swallowed whole. Also, some dogs have difficulty differentiating rawhide from refined leather, which could put your new pair of shoes in serious jeopardy! Rubber chew toys should be solid and sturdy so that they cannot be easily ripped apart by sharp puppy teeth. Avoid chew toys with plastic “squeaks” in them. Most dogs can extract these mechanisms too easily, only to swallow them or aspirate them into their airways Regardless of the type of chew toy you pick, choose it as you would a child’s toy. If its design is such that it could cause suffocation or serious problems if swallowed, put it back and choose a safer one. Avoid using old socks, shoes, or sweatshirts as substitute toys for your dog because it won’t be able to tell the difference between old and new. Allow a puppy to chew on an old shoe or sweatshirt while still an adolescent, and you might find it fancying your expensive leather shoes or tennis warmups when it grows up. When selecting toys for your new kitten or cat, be sure that they cannot be torn apart easily and that they do not contain small parts that could be swallowed. Wrinkled paper and shoeboxes are intriguing to most cats. Rubber balls or mice too large to swallow, as well as catnip toys (again, constructed for safety), are also considered safe toys. If a string is attached to a toy in order to entice a cat to play, always remove it after the play session is over. Along the same lines, never use ribbon or laces as play items. If a cat swallows such items, they could damage their intestines and have to be removed surgically. It is fine to play intensely with a puppy or kitten, but overt roughhousing should be avoided. If a play session progresses from a friendly romp to an all-out frontal assault, end it immediately. Your pet needs to learn how to keep its activity level to a socially acceptable intensity. Also, be sure that the youngster gets plenty of time to rest after an especially active play period.
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The same rules of moderation apply to chewing. It is perfectly natural for a puppy to want to explore its environment with its mouth. During play, there will be times when the pup will bite and nip too much or too hard. When this occurs, shout “No,” pull your arm or leg away, and provide a chew toy as a substitute. In essence, what you want to tell your pup is that it is fine to use its mouth to explore, just as long as it knows its limits (Fig. 1.11). You’ll be surprised how quickly they learn! FIGURE 1.11
Make sure that your puppy learns the rules of play early!
CHAPTER
2
Training Essentials
P
roper training is definitely the key to a happy owner-pet relationship. It establishes your dominance in the relationship between you and your pet right from the start, and it can help prevent many behavioral challenges from rearing their ugly heads later on. Solid training can also keep your pet out of troublesome situations that could threaten both its health and yours (Fig. 2.1)! There is one characteristic exhibited by every good trainer: patience. Without this virtue, you’re going to have a tough time teaching your pet anything. You need to set aside time each day for training and resolve to stick to it. Keep in mind that it will only be a temporary dip into your time budget. After all, the more time you devote from the start, the quicker and more satisfying the results will be. What about training school? Is it worth the time and the money? The answer is “Yes” if it will motivate you to devote the time for the task at hand. You still have to be physically present during the training (you can’t have someone else train your dog, and then expect your star pupil to respond likewise to your commands). If you choose this route, enroll in an active-participation class in which an instructor directs you and your dog through the training session. However, keep in mind that such a class doesn’t relieve you of your homework duties. You still need to practice with your pooch daily on your home turf.
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Main Principles of Training For any training method to be effective, it must follow some basic principles to ensure its success. Some of these principles are described in the following paragraphs.
Consistency and Repetition
FIGURE 2.1 Proper training will enhance your relationship with your dog.
DID YOU KNOW ? Dogs learn in primarily two ways. The most basic type of learning, called habituation, is characterized by a diminishing response to a repeated stimulus over time. In the second type of learning, called associative learning, a dog creates a “link” between two or more different types of actions, results, and/or stimuli (e.g., food rewards for desired behavior). Socialization is regarded as a form of this associative learning.
The magic success formula for all training endeavors is derived from two key concepts: consistency and repetition. Consistency provides the building blocks; repetition is the mortar that holds the program together. Without the two, you might as well try to teach a rock how to fetch. The results will be the same! Consistency means more than just using the same commands over and over again. It also means using the same praises and corrections each time and keeping your voice tones consistently unique for each. Even your body language and postures used during training should remain uniform between sessions. As trivial
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as it might seem, pets pick up on stuff like that. Dogs and cats also like routine, so stick to it. Train at the same hour each day and for the same length of time for each daily session. Just as important as consistency to a dog or cat’s learning process is repetition. Repeating an action or training drill over and over will help reinforce the positive response you are looking F I G U R E 2 . 2 All cats should be trained to a harfor. Furthermore, the more ness and leash. repetition you implement into training, the leaner and more refined your pet’s learned skills become (Fig. 2.2).
Verbal Praise Use verbal praise instead of physical pain in your training sessions. Food treats are fine as a reward supplement, but they should never replace verbal compliments. Punishment might be warranted if your pet purposely disobeys a command or commits an undesirable act, but this should never take the form of physical punishment. There are alternative means, each of which is at least just as effective as physical violence.
Punishment Dogs and cats can be reprimanded effectively with a sharp verbal “No.” Water sprayers, air horns, a can full of coins, handheld vacuums, and so on can all be used to gain your pet’s attention quickly DR. P’S VET TIP without inflicting any pain. When training, always end If you decide to use punyour session on a positive ishment, be sure to institute note. This will greatly accelerate your it quickly, preferably within results. 5 seconds of the act. If you
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F
ACT
OR
FICTION
Sticking a dog’s nose in its stool or urine is an effective form of punishment. F I C T I O N . C’mon, who thought of this one! For some reason, this type of punishment is still quite popular among pet owners, even though it serves no useful purpose. Dogs are attracted to the smell of this stuff, anyway!
don’t apply it before this time expires, any punishment thereafter might satisfy your anger, but it will serve no useful training purpose. Don’t extend your punishment past a few seconds. Prolonged exhortations will only confuse your pet (and might cause you to lose your voice).
Never use your pet’s name during the negative reinforcement. If you do, your pet might start to associate its name with the bad act and eventually become a basket case whenever the name is called. Reserve this name calling for positive, happy experiences only. If you do punish, always follow it up shortly thereafter with a command or drill that will lead to a praise situation. Remember that the most effective training programs rely on praise more than on punishment. For some dogs, simply withholding praise from them is punishment enough to modify their behavior! By rewarding your pet for doing good rather than punishing it for doing bad, you’ll get the positive results you are looking for much faster.
Other Suggestions 1. Get the whole family involved. In any training situation, always try to involve all members of the family. An all-too-common scenario is one in which a pet virtually ignores the commands of anyone but the one person who trained it. To avoid this, get the whole family involved. Just be sure to remain consistent within the family with regard to the training methods and commands used. 2. Use short commands. All verbal commands you employ need to be kept short and sweet. Using slightly different voice tones for each command will help prevent confusion. If verbal punishment is to be used, make certain that it is totally different in tone and in presentation than the other commands. 3. Start young. Always start your pet’s training at an early age. While it is true that certain advanced training techniques can be best
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taught at around 6 months of age, basic training, including housetraining for dogs, should be started as early as 8 weeks of age. If basic command training is not taught this early in life, bad habits arise later on, some of which can put a damper on future training efforts. 4. Keep training sessions short. Try to keep the training sessions short and to the point. For puppies and kittens 8 to 12 weeks of age, devoting 10 minutes two to three times daily will yield excellent results. As your pet matures, the length of each of these sessions can increase. Let your pet’s attitude be your judge. If it seems bored or indifferent, or has become totally unruly, you have probably exceeded its attention span. 5. End on a good note. Always end your training session on a good note. Doing so is very constructive in terms of your pet’s mental development, and effectively sets the tone for the next session.
Socializing and Desensitizing Your Pet There is no doubt that the most important time in a new puppy or kitten’s life is between the ages of 3 and 12 weeks. During this short timespan, the adolescent will learn who it is, who you are, and who and what all of those other living, moving beings surrounding it are as well. This stage of life in which such vital learning takes place is called the socialization period (Fig. 2.3). If for some reason a puppy or kitten fails to be properly introduced to members of its own species or to other species (including children) during this time, then there is a good chance that it will not recognize
FIGURE 2.3
Dogs and cats can become best of friends if socialized at an early age.
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these individuals for what or who they are, and it might even show aggressiveness toward them. For example, dogs intended for breeding purposes must be properly socialized to members of their own species if they are to be expected to breed with one of these members. Also, prime examples of dogs not properly socialized include those that show extreme aggressiveness to men only, or those aggressive to children. Dogs in particular see people as two species: big people and little people. As F I G U R E 2 . 4 All dogs must be properly social- a result, while a dog might ized to children. recognize an adult person as the one who feeds and commands it, it might not recognize a small toddler as one who commands the same respect if the pet is never properly socialized to small children (Fig. 2.4). Some dogs aren’t fit for any type of human interaction at all. These have absolutely no socialization whatsoever and could pose a threat to humans. Improper or negative socialization is even worse than no socialization at all. Any traumatic experience or physical punishment that occurs before 12 weeks of age could permanently scar a pet’s personality to a specific group or species for life. For instance, dogs or cats that exhibit a fear of men were most likely abused by a member of this sex during the socialization period. This is one reason why all physical punishment should be avoided during this time in your pet’s life. Such activity could damage its relationship with the person doing the punishing for life! The existence of this socialization period is one reason why you should select puppies and kittens less than 12 weeks of age when choosing a new companion. If you don’t, you have no way of knowing
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whether proper socialization has taken place, and you might be faced with behavioral problems in the future. Socializing a pet is not difficult if you remember to keep all interactions positive and F I G U R E 2 . 5 Socialization is just as important to guard against any physi- for cats as it is for dogs. cally and emotionally traumatic situations (Fig. 2.5). DID YOU KNOW Before introducing a new puppy or kitten to other aniCats may socialize to one breed of dog but not to another! mals, be sure that it and the other animals are current on vaccinations and dewormings. In addition, always be sure that the animals you are planning to introduce it to are socialized themselves, or else you could have a battle on your hands. Weekend excursions to a park and/or neighborhood strolls are some of the more opportune ways of introducing your new pet to other animals and to other adults and children. Allow children to freely interact with your puppy or kitten, but again, be sure that none gets too rough. For best results, you should repeat such encounters throughout its socialization period. And by all means praise your pet for good behavior during these interactions. It will leave a lasting impression on its personality (Fig. 2.6)! One word of caution: Socialization, like any personality skill, can eventually be lost if it is not reinforced periodically. As a result, even as your dog or cat matures, don’t just discard those trips to the park or strolls through the neighborhood. Remember: You have to use it or lose it! Desensitization training is often overlooked by most new pet owners, yet it can be one of the most valuable tools for preventing stress F I G U R E 2 . 6 The power of socialization!
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and behavioral problems as their dog or cat matures. There are three types of desensitization that need to be accomplished: (1) contact desensitization, (2) separation desensitization, and (3) noise desensitization. The first two types should be instituted at 8 weeks of age, and the third should commence at 16 weeks of age. The first type, contact desensitization training, will condition your pet to allow its haircoat, feet, ears, and mouth region to be handled. This is vitally important for your pet’s preventive health care program, for it will allow you to brush hair, trim nails, brush teeth, and clean ears without a fight! When interacting with your puppy or kitten, make a special effort to gently touch these regions with your fingers several times a day. Don’t attempt to perform any of the grooming procedures mentioned above with the actual utensils; instead, simply go through the motions with your hands and fingers. Soon, your puppy or kitten won’t think twice when you reach out and grasp a paw or an earflap. Once it has been desensitized to your touch, then you graduate up to actual grooming utensils. Just remember to temporarily discontinue your efforts if a struggle ensues. Any negative or painful experience involving these regions during your initial training efforts can produce the exact opposite effect and create an individual that will struggle vehemently when attempts are made to perform these simple procedures. The goal of separation desensitization training is to desensitize a pet to being left alone by itself. This is especially important in dogs because of their “pack” mentality; however, it can apply to cats as well. As far as dogs are concerned, separation desensitization training will help prevent one of the most common behavioral disorders seen in the species: separation anxiety. You can start by placing your puppy in its travel kennel and leaving the house for a predetermined period of time (a few minutes at a time for the first day, then gradually working up over several weeks to 20 to 30 minutes departures each day), being careful not to make a fuss over your puppy or respond to its protests before you leave. In addition, when you reenter the house, wait several minutes before you let your pet out of its kennel, doing your best to ignore its pleas. When you do finally let it out, take it immediately outside to use the bathroom. Act as though your arrivals and departures are “nothing special,” and your puppy will soon acquiesce to being left alone (see discussion of behavioral disorders).
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Desensitization to strange or loud noises should also be performed when a puppy or kitten is still young. The easiest method for accomplishing this training is to regularly expose your young pet to recordings of various sounds, such as thunder, lightning, and fireworks. Compact disks containing these sounds and others are available at most book and record stores, or can be tracked down over the Internet. Playing these recordings while in the presence of your pet for 15 minutes daily, adjusting the volume up over a 3- to 6-week period, will usually achieve the desired desensitization
Basic Training for Dogs Some tools of the trade you’ll want to acquire to assist you in your canine training efforts include a leash, a 20- to 25-foot rope with an end clasp attached, and a sturdy collar or harness. If you decide to use a slip or choke chain collar, read the package directions and make certain that you know how to use it properly; otherwise, serious damage to your pet’s neck and trachea could result. Because this device can be easily misused, many veterinarians recommend not using them unless you are a seasoned trainer. A better alternative is to use a head collar (i.e., a Gentle Leader ®). This device applies pressure to the back of the neck and to the muzzle (without inflicting pain or pressure on the trachea), allowing you to effectively control your dog’s head during training. If your new puppy or dog is not used to wearing a collar (halter), harness, or leash, you must get it accustomed to them prior to any training efforts. Start by placing a collar, halter, or harness on your dog and allowing it to wear it around the house for several days. Once you think your dog feels fairly comfortable with it on, attach a leash to the clasp and allow your dog to walk around with the leash dragging behind. To protect your dog from snagging furniture or other objects with the leash and hurting itself, you should supervise these sessions. After about six to eight sessions over the course of 2 days, your dog should feel more comfortable with its leash being attached to its collar, halter, or harness, and should be ready for further instruction (Fig. 2.7a).
Heel The first command you will teach your four-legged student is to heel, or walk at your side (Fig. 2.7b). To begin, position yourself on your
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dog’s right side facing forward, with its shoulders even with your left knee. Take up the slack on the leash to prevent your dog from becoming entangled in the excess. Now, in simultaneous fashion, give a quick forward tug on the lead, say “heel,” and start forward with your left foot leading. As your dog follows, keep its head level and in control using the leash. Start out by going 5 yards at a time, then stopping to praise for a job well done. If your dog refuses to move on your initial command, go back to the starting line and set up again. This time, if needed, follow the quick tug with an encouraging pull on the lead to initiate movement. Start and stop frequently, praising as you go. As your dog starts to catch on, increase the distance you go each time. The ultimate goal is to have your dog walk briskly by F I G U R E 2 . 7 a All dogs should be taught your side until a command is to walk on a leash. given to do otherwise. If your dog gets too far out in front of you, a quick, backward tug on the lead should be used to correct the discrepancy. For those trainees more interested in playing rather than learning, stop the training session temporarily until your dog settles down. Don’t scold or show any other acknowledgment of its antics. It will soon learn that you mean business! Once your dog has become comfortable walking in straight lines by your side, take it through some turns both to the right and to the left. During the turns, your dog’s shoulder should remain aligned with your knee.
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Stop Once your dog responds favorably to the heel command, it is time to teach it the command “stop.” With your dog heeling at your side, give a sharp backward tug on the leash as you say “stop,” and halt your forward motion. (The verbal exclamation differentiates this from the backward tug used to slow an overenergized heeler.) Hold the stop for 3 seconds, then praise heavily for compliance. Afterward, have your dog heel again, and repeat the process over and over again, gradually increasing the amount of time you require your pet to remain still.
Sit and Stay
FIGURE 2.7b
Teaching your dog to “heel.”
From the “stop” position, pull upward on your dog’s lead while at the same time saying “sit,” and pushing down on its rear end to achieve the sitting position (Fig. 2.8). Have your dog maintain this posture for a good 5 seconds, then break into a heel. Gradually increase the sitting interval as your training progresses. When your dog has learned what “sit” and “stop” mean, it’s time to teach the “stay” command (Fig. 2.9). This is where your 20-foot rope lead comes in handy. Attach this to the collar and walk your dog again through the heel-stop-sit routine. Once your dog is in the sitting position, place your left hand in front of its face and say “stay.” Now slowly walk about 3 yards away, keeping your back to your dog. If it breaks its “stay” when you move, reel your dog in with the lead, and make it immediately return to the sitting position. Then try again.
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If the student stays in place even for 3 seconds after you walk away, heap on bundles of praise. If your dog still disobeys, walk it through your heel-stop-sit routine a few more times before returning to the “stay” command. As your pet starts to catch on, you can begin increasing the distances you go and time intervals for it to stay put.
Other Commands “Heel,” “stop,” “sit,” and “stay” are the basic obedience commands that you should start teaching your dog as early as 8 weeks of age. Two other commands that are optional, yet could come in handy in certain instances, are “down” and “come.” “Down” should be included as an adjunct to the “sit” command. After your dog is in the sitting position, utter the command while applying downward pressure with your free hand to its shoulder region. Note the F I G U R E 2 . 9 The “stay” command. difference from the “sit” command, in which downward pressure is applied to the hind end. Now, from this down position, you can proceed into the “stay” drill. FIGURE 2.8
The “sit” command.
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“Come” can be taught as a continuation of the “stay” command. With your dog sitting or lying at rope’s length, give a quick forward tug while saying the command “come.” Again, use the lead to reel it in if it decides to wander off track. Praise your dog only if it comes directly to you from its original starting position. When, and only when, your dog has mastered these commands and responds to them consistently can you discard the leash or lead. For off-leash training, repeat each command sequence as before. Don’t hesitate to put the lead back on if your dog fails to cooperate. At first, it is especially important to hold all off-leash training sessions in fenced-in yards or other enclosed areas to prevent you star pupil from dashing off into the sunset!
Housebreaking Your Puppy Puppies should be housebroken at an early age, preferably as close to 8 weeks old as possible (Fig. 2.10) because this is when the period of stable learning begins in adolescent dogs. Their minds are wide open to suggestions, and they learn quite quickly at this early stage of life. If you expect to yield successful results, you must be willing to devote some quality time to the task. Recognize that puppies have four fairly predictable elimination times: 1. After waking 2. After eating 3. After exercising 4. Just before retiring for the night Make a concerted effort to take your puppy outside at these times, and every 3 to 4 hours in between. When you suspect that it has to go, take your pup outside and set it down in the grass.
F I G U R E 2 . 1 0 When housebreaking a puppy, use lots of praise and avoid punishment.
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If elimination takes place, praise your puppy, and then take it immediately back inside the house. By doing so, you will help it associate the act with the location. If a minute passes and your puppy hasn’t gone, take it back inside. Don’t leave it outside to play or roam. Puppies trained in this manner soon realize that their primary business for being outside is to eliminate, not to play. What happens if you catch your puppy in midact? If this is the case, go ahead and rush it outside. The puppy might finish what it started before you make it out the door, but don’t get upset. Again, praise it immensely for going outside, and then bring it immediately back inside. If you happen to miss an accident altogether, don’t fret. If you saw it happen, a verbal punishment is warranted. On the other hand, if you didn’t see it happen, do nothing. Simply try to be more attentive next time. Other housetraining tips to remember are 1. Be sure that your puppy is current on its vaccines (since it will be going outside) and is free of intestinal parasites. The latter is very important because the presence of worms in the intestinal tract will cause unpredictable urges to eliminate. 2. Always use lots of praise; never physically punish. Again, remember that puppies crave praise, and if they don’t get it, they feel punished. Give plenty of praise when they deserve it; hold it back when they don’t. 3. When verbal punishment is indicated, avoid associating your puppy’s name with the reprimand. For instance, simply say “bad,” instead of “bad dog, Sugar.” By leaving names out of it, the puppy won’t associate its name with the bad behavior. 4. Establish a regular feeding schedule for your new puppy. Feed no more than twice daily, and take your puppy outside after it finishes each meal. It is preferable to feed the evening portion before 6:00 P.M. in order to help reduce the number of overnight accidents that can occur otherwise. 5. To help prevent accidents, keep your puppy in a confined area at night. It should be puppyproofed and have a floor that won’t
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be damaged if a slipup occurs. Utility rooms and half-bathrooms work well for this purpose, as do kitchens if they can be cornered off. If accidents occurs during the night or while you are away, don’t get upset. As your training sessions progress, you’ll find that this will become less and less of a problem. A natural instinct of any canine is to keep its “den” clean. These inherent instincts, combined with correct housetraining efforts on your part, will help fuel the success of your training efforts. 6. When cleaning up an accident, always use an odor neutralizer rather than a deodorizer on the area in question. These are available at most pet stores, and will usually eliminate any lingering scents that can lure your pet back to the same spot. Avoid using ammonia-based cleaners, since ammonia is a normal component of canine urine. Such cleaners might serve to attract, rather than to repel, repeat offenders.
Basic Training for Cats Contrary to popular belief, some cats can be just as trainable as dogs. Keep in mind, though, that the independent nature of cats can make certain training procedures a bit tricky, but if you maintain an understanding attitude toward your task, your frustrations will be minimal and your rewards plentiful. As with dogs, all cats should be trained to walk on a leash at an early age. Why? By teaching your cat to accept a leash and harness, you will be able to institute a daily exercise program for it, keeping it fit and healthy. In addition, since allowing a cat to roam freely outdoors these days is becoming more dangerous, a leash-trained cat can enjoy the same benefits of the great outdoors, yet without the risks. Finally, many travelers find that leash training comes in quite handy at rest stops during lengthy trips. Before you attach a leash to your kitten or cat, it must become accustomed to a halter. Because halters provide more control and security than do collars, the latter should not be used to walk a cat on a leash. Place the new halter on your cat and allow it to wear it around the house for 10 to 15 minutes at a time. Then take it off, and repeat the process at 3-hour intervals throughout the day. Eventually lengthen
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the time you leave the halter on until your cat will wear it all day without a fuss. At this point, attach a leash to the halter and allow your cat to drag the leash around for 10 to 15 minutes at a time before removing it. Repeat this procedure throughout the day for a week or so. Do not allow your cat to walk around unsupervised with the leash dangling free. If the leash becomes snagged, your cat could seriously injure itself. Once you feel that your cat has become accustomed to the leash, practice walking with it indoors using the lead for a week or two. Only after your cat gives you total compliance should you attempt the same maneuver outdoors. If everything goes as planned, be sure to reward your cat for a job well done. A scratch behind the ears or under the chin, or a favorite food treat, does wonders to help solidify and promote such desired behavior. If you so desire, teach your cat commands as you would a dog. Remember: Because of the very nature of the feline, you can’t always expect 100 percent compliance; simply take all successes and run with them! One helpful tip is to hold your training sessions when your cat is hungry. If you do so, food rewards become powerful motivators for good behavior.
Litter Training Your Kitten Kittens will be instinctively drawn to litter or dirt in which to eliminate as early as 4 to 6 weeks of age. As a result, housebreaking a kitten usually involves minimal effort on an owner’s part (Fig. 2.11). Allowing access of your new kitten to its litterbox after eating, playing, waking up, or just before bedtime will help encourage repeat use. If your cat doesn’t seem to catch on, there might be some reason for its reluctance to use the F I G U R E 2 . 1 1 Most kittens will learn to use a litterbox. If so, it is your job to find out why. litterbox without your help.
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Solving Challenging Behaviors When searching for the leading cause of dissatisfaction among pet owners, problem behaviors top the list. Each year, a multitude of dogs and cats are abandoned, evicted from their homes, or even put to sleep because of annoying behavioral activity. However, by understanding and employing special training techniques and/or therapy to correct such vices, and by allowing veterinarians to play active roles in the treatment process, pet owners can often avoid such drastic actions.
Canine Behavioral Disorders The most common behavioral disorders you may encounter with your dog include separation anxiety, nuisance barking, inappropriate elimination, digging, destructive chewing, jumping, fear of loud noises, and aggressiveness.
Separation Anxiety It has happened to many of us: We leave the house, sometimes for only a few minutes, and our “best friend” proceeds to chew up the furniture, bark or howl, and/or eliminate in the house. If your dog behaves this way when you leave your home, it is probably suffering from the behavioral problem known as separation anxiety. (Note: Medical problems can be the cause of such aberrant behavior; these must be ruled out before you can safely assume that you are dealing with a case of separation anxiety.) Before you can successfully treat a problem like separation anxiety, it is helpful to know what causes it. Dogs are considered pack animals; that is, they prefer to associate in groups rather than act as loners. Because you are its owner, a dog will consider you part of its “pack” and will constantly want to associate with you. When you leave, you separate the dog DR. P’S VET TIP from its pack, and this creFor cases of separation anxiates separation anxiety (Fig. ety that are refractory to 2.12). This behavior will be conventional management, veterinarians magnified if you tend to can prescribe specific antianxiety medmake a big fuss over the dog ications to help effect a cure. when leaving or returning
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to the house. Furthermore, certain other behavioral patterns on your part, such as rattling the car keys or turning off the television, can be associated to your departure by the dog. When treating separation anxiety, you must remember that it is an instinctive behavior; it is not due to disobedience and/or lack of training. As a result, overt F I G U R E 2 . 1 2 Dogs enjoy spending time with punishment for the act tends other members of their “pack.” to be unrewarding. In fact, most of these dogs would rather be punished than left alone! The key to treating this problem lies in planning short-term departures, then gradually lengthening them until your dog gets used to your absence. Begin by stepping out of the house for 10 seconds at a time for the first few days or so. Hopefully this will allow your dog to get used to you leaving the house, since it will learn that you will return soon. Vary your training session times throughout the day. The idea is to gradually lengthen your absences (30 seconds at first, then 1 minute, then 2 minutes, etc.) so that your departures soon become second nature to the dog. Points to keep in mind when attempting to break your dog of this annoying behavior are as follows: 1. Don’t make a fuss over your dog within 5 to 10 minutes of your arrival to or departure from home. This will help keep the excitement and anxiety levels in your dog to a minimum. During your training sessions, try not to reenter the house while the dog is performing the undesirable act. Doing so will only serve to encourage the dog to repeat the act. 2. Eliminate any behavior that might key the dog off to your departure, such as rattling your car keys or saying “goodbye” to your dog.
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3. For the dog that likes to chew a lot, provide plenty of nylon chew bones to occupy its time. 4. Leaving the television or radio on while you’re gone seems to help in some cases. For severe cases of separation anxiety that fail to respond to desensitization training, an antianxiety medication, prescribed by a veterinarian, may be necessary.
Excessive (Nuisance) Barking Let’s face it: Some dogs just love to hear their own voices! Unfortunately, most owners and their neighbors hardly share the same adoration. There is no doubt that dogs that bark excessively are a nuisance and can cause many a sleepless night. For this reason, correction of the problem is essential to your sanity, and that of those who live around you. A dog might bark excessively for a number of reasons. The first is boredom. Dogs that have nothing else to do might simply “sing” to themselves to whittle time away. Another potential cause is territoriality. Outsiders, whether human or animal, will almost always elicit a bark out of a dog if threatening to encroach on its territory. Dogs can also use the bark indiscriminately as a communiqué to other outsiders to stay away. In such instances, the far-off bay of a neighborhood dog or the slamming of a car door down the street can trigger a barking episode. Separation anxiety is another common source of nuisance barking. Some dogs have it so bad that they bark continuously when their owner leaves them, even for a short period of time. Often, owners return home to find their dogs hoarse from so much barking. When attempting to break your dog of this annoying habit, always remember this one principle: If you respond to your dog’s barking fit by yelling at it or physically punishing it, you will make the problem worse. Dogs that are isolated from their owners for most of the day don’t care about what kind of attention they receive (positive or negative), as long as they get some. Dogs that are barking because of boredom or separation anxiety will soon learn that their actions will eventually get them attention, and they’ll keep doing it. Even dogs that are barking for other reasons can catch on quickly that such vocalization will bring
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them a bonus of attention from their beloved owners. As a result, no matter how mad you get, or how sleepy you are, avoid the urge to punish your dog for its barking. The first thing you need to determine is whether separation anxiety has anything to do with the problem. If you think it does, treat it as you would any other case of separation anxiety. In many cases, dogs that bark for this reason alone can be cured of their habit. Keep in mind, though, that the source of the barking might involve a combination of the factors, not just one. Dogs that bark for reasons other than separation anxiety need to be given more attention throughout the day. A dog that tends to bark through the night should be given plenty of exercise in the evening to encourage a good night’s sleep. A nylon or rawhide chew bone can be helpful at diverting its attention. Feeding the dog its daily ration later in the evening can also promote contentment for the night. For those times of the day or night when the barking seems the worst, consider bringing the dog inside the house or the garage. This, of course, will not be possible if you failed to instruct your dog as to the ways of household living when it was a puppy. Nevertheless, removing your dog from its primary territory and/or increasing the amount of contact with members of its pack can help curb the urge to bark. Also, if possible, encourage your neighbors to keep their pets indoors at night, since nighttime roaming of neighborhood dogs and cats is a major cause of nuisance barking.
Inappropriate Elimination It has happened to all of us: the early morning encounter in the family room or the unexpected (or sometimes expected) surprise awaiting our arrival home from work—house soiling. It is a dirty habit, yet one that millions of pet owners have to put up with each day. In many of these cases, the problem has an origin traceable to puppyhood; for others, it results from developmental behavioral and/or health problems. Regardless of the cause, pet owners can take an active role in most cases to minimize or stop completely this annoying habit. Don’t think that you will break your dog of this nasty habit by sticking its face and nose in the excrement after the fact. Not only is this action illogical and inappropriate for the particular situation; some dogs
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might even enjoy it! Instead, pet owners need to take a more rational approach to identifying the cause and solving the problem. To do that, you must first determine what is causing it. LACK OF OR INADEQUATE HOUSETRAINING
The most common cause of house soiling is undoubt- F I G U R E 2 . 1 3 The cause of house soiling must be determined before effective treatment can be edly the failure of an owner instituted. to housetrain the dog properly during its puppyhood (Fig. 2.13). Many pet owners can’t understand why their puppy has no problems going on newspaper, but just can’t get the knack of going outside. They seem to forget that, to a puppy, newspaper and grass are two different surfaces with different smells. To paper-train a puppy and then expect it to switch easily to another type of surface is asking a lot, and this often presents a confusing dilemma to the poor creature. Puppies need to be taught right from the start to go outside to use the bathroom instead of encouraging them to go within the confines of the home. At the same time, dogs that will be spending a great deal of time outside need to be housetrained as puppies, in case the need arises later in life to bring them indoors for whatever reason. If you miss this chance when it is a puppy, you could be in for trouble later on. Contrary to popular opinion, you can teach an old dog new tricks; it just takes longer! With older canines that weren’t properly pottytrained, proceed with training or retraining as you would with a puppy. Along with lots of praise, a favorite treat or snack can also be used to reinforce desired behavior. For those times you can’t be at home to monitor indoor activity, confine your dog to a travel kennel or small bathroom, since dogs are less likely to have premeditated accidents in such confined spaces. Just be reasonable as to the amount of time you make it wait between eliminations.
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SEPARATION ANXIETY
Inappropriate elimination activity can, as do many other behavioral problems, result from separation anxiety. Dogs left alone may become frustrated and soil one or more parts of the house. Some dogs can even become downright spiteful, targeting favorite furniture, bedding, and, if kept in the garage, even the roofs of automobiles. If your dog is truly suffering from separation anxiety, most of its adverse behavior will occur within 15 to 20 minutes of your departure. This predictability can assist in efforts to correct the problem. Treat this as you would any other case of separation anxiety. DESIRE TO DELINEATE TERRITORY
The desire to delineate territory is another reason why a dog may choose to urinate (or sometimes defecate) indiscriminately. Certainly, intact (nonneutered) male dogs are more prone to this instinctive activity. Dogs have such a keen sense of smell that the mere presence of a canine trespasser around the perimeter of the home can set off a urine-marking binge. Owners who move into preowned homes often find out the hard way that the previous owners had a poorly trained or highly territorial pet housed within. Neutering your pet may or may not help solve this problem, depending on its age. In many older males, house soiling has become more habitual than hormonal, and neutering does little to prevent it. Use of a pet odor neutralizer on the carpet and baseboards is warranted if you suspect that a previous occupant is to blame. Use of fencing or dog repellent (not poison!) around the perimeter of the house may also help keep persistent urine-markers away from your house. EXTREMELY SUBMISSIVE BEHAVIOR
Extremely submissive behavior often results in a cowering dog that urinates whenever anyone approaches. This type of adverse elimination is common in dogs that have been abused as puppies or have spent most of their growing years in a kennel or pound facility. Management of such behavior depends on your actions and body language when approaching or greeting such a dog. Try to avoid direct eye contact and sudden physical contact with such dogs, for by doing so, you can send them into immediate submissiveness. If you’ve been gone
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from the house for a while, avoid sudden and exuberant greetings when you get home. By ignoring your dog initially, you’ll lower its excitement level, reduce the immediate threat, and give it no reason to urinate. One trick you can try is to immediately and casually walk over to your dog’s food bowl and place some food or treats in it. The idea is to distract your dog’s attention away from the excitement of your arrival and create a more comfortable, pleasing situation for it. Once you’ve been home a while, then you can (and should) offer more of your attention. ILLNESS OR DISEASE
Finally, don’t forget that some diseases or illnesses can cause a pet to urinate or defecate indiscriminately. For instance, dogs that tend to defecate inside the house should be checked for internal parasites. Diets with increased fiber content can also increase the number of trips your pet will need to take outdoors. Certainly if the stools are semiformed or seem to differ from normal appearance or consistency, an underlying medical reason should be suspected. In addition, some of the conditions that can increase the frequency and/or urge to urinate include urinary tract infections, kidney disease, and diabetes mellitus. Urinary incontinence, characterized by the inability of the bladder to retain urine because of poor sphincter function, is common in older dogs. For these reasons, don’t just assume that your dog’s soiling problem is purely mental. Have the potential medical causes ruled out first; then you can concentrate on behavioral modification. Just a word about cleaning up an accident in the house. When using cleaners to tackle the initial mess, be sure that they don’t contain ammonia. Dog urine contains a form of ammonia, and such products might actually attract your dog back to the same spot later on. Along this same line, after the initial manual cleaning, your next job is to ensure that residual smell doesn’t attract your pet back to the same spot. To accomplish this, you need to employ a product containing odor neutralizers specifically targeted for dogs. These products are available at grocery stores or pet shops. Deodorizers should not be used, for it is virtually impossible to completely mask or hide a scent from the keen canine nose.
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Digging
F I G U R E 2 . 1 4 Digging behavior is often caused by instinct or by sheer boredom.
Although separation anxiety can cause digging episodes, its influence on this behavior is much less than with other problem behaviors. Instead, sheer boredom and/ or instinctive behavior are the two common states of mind that compel a dog to dig (Fig. 2.14).
Dogs with nothing else to do might opt for yard excavation just to help pass the time or to use up extra energy. The urge to break out of confinement and roam the neighborhood can also compel a dog to start digging. Finally, as you might have already experienced, many dogs like to bury personal items such as bones or toys for exhumation at a later date. Such instinctive behavior, although aggravating, can hardly be considered abnormal, and is difficult to totally eliminate. Increasing your dog’s daily dose of exercise could be just what the doctor ordered to help resolve its boredom and release any pentup energy. Diverting the attention of a chronic digger is another plausible treatment approach. For instance, some troublesome cases have responded very well to the addition of another canine playmate. Rawhide bones and other chewing devices can also be used as attentiongrabbers, but only if they don’t end up underground themselves. If most of the digging occurs at night, overnight confinement to the garage might be the answer to spare your yard from the ravages of claws. Finally, if you haven’t already done it, neutering can sometimes help snuff out the strong urge to dig in those dogs wanting to escape the yard and roam the neighborhood.
Destructive Chewing Many canines are literally “in the doghouse” with their owners because of their destructive chewing. No one wants a pet that seeks and destroys any inanimate object into which it can sink its teeth. However, the urgency for dealing with such behavior is not governed merely by personal property damage. Many of these chewers also end up in
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veterinary hospitals suffering from gastroenteritis or intestinal obstructions. Hence, such adverse activity can cost more than just replacement value of furniture or fixtures. It can even sometimes cost the life of a pet! In puppies, destructive chewing can easily arise from lack of training and from inappropriate selection of toys (Fig. 2.15). Although puppies are naturally going to explore their environment with their mouths, they need to learn at an early age what is and isn’t acceptable to chew on. Solid command training is a must in these little guys. FI G U R E 2 . 1 5 Destructive chewing is an annoyAvoid providing normal ing behavior that can lead to serious health challenges. household items such as old shoes, T-shirts, or sweatshirts as toys to play with. Puppies can’t tell the difference between old and new shoes, and they might decide to try out your new pair for a snack one afternoon! Objects that repeatedly bear the brunt of your dog’s teeth should be placed as far out of reach as possible. For furniture or immovable objects, special pet repellents should be sprayed around their perimeters to make a mischievous puppy think twice before sinking its teeth into the item. In young to middle-aged adults, separation anxiety is probably the number one cause of destructive chewing. As with all cases of separation anxiety and the behavior it provokes, correction of the problem should focus on correction of the anxiety attack. Finally, as with problem barking, boredom plays a leading role in destructive chewing in some adult dogs. If you think this might be the case, increase your dog’s daily activity, and provide it with plenty of alternative targets, such as rawhides or nylon bones, on which to chew. Divert its attention, and most likely it will divert its chewing.
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Other Causes and Forms of Aberrant Behavior JUMPING
Talk about annoying behavior! Jumping is right up there with house soiling and incessant barking. Jumpers are usually right there at the door when visitors call and have this innate tendency to spoil a perfectly cordial greeting. After all, nobody wants a dog with dirty paws to jump on their nice, clean clothes, especially if the dog weighs 50 pounds or more (Fig. 2.16)! This is one challenging behavior that should never be allowed to gain a firm root in a puppy. Probably the best way to assure this is through strict command training, starting at an early age. Until it learns its commands, be sure to discourage your dog from jumping on you or family members when the occasion arises. When it does jump at or on you, quickly push it off with your hands and shout “No!” Or, as an alternative, flex your knee and make sudden contact with its chest, making it fall backwards. Just don’t overdo it and hurt your pet! For adult dogs that never learned their manners, a refresher course in command training is the most effective method of curing the chronic jumper. Sometimes dogs that jump are simply trying to tell their owners that they want more attention. In such cases, a few more moments of your time devoted to your furry friend each day is an important adjunct to therapy. FEAR OF LOUD NOISES
F I G U R E 2 . 1 6 Proper obedience training is the key to curing the “jumper.”
Fear induced by loud noises such as thunder or gunshots can be a common cause of aberrant behavior in canines.
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Many people argue that because of the ultrasensitive hearing of dogs, pain induced by the noise or a pressure change might play a bigger role than fear itself. Regardless of the reason, when confronted with the disturbing sound, these dogs often become hysterical and quite destructive in their attempts to escape. Many might even injure themselves or their owners in the process. In the case of the hunting dog that shies away when a gun is fired, training sessions involving repeated, gradual increases in exposure to the sound of gunfire are an effective method of ridding the dog of its fear. For dogs that fear the sound of thunder, fireworks, and other loud noises, owners must avoid direct attempts at comforting the pet, since doing so would be indirectly rewarding the undesirable behavior. If your dog is the type that comes unglued in these situations, consider letting it “ride out the storm” in a travel kennel. In addition, playing a radio or television loudly in the room where your pet is present might help muffle some of the fearful sounds, as well as make your dog feel more at ease. Your veterinarian can prescribe antianxiety medications for your dog if it has an exceptional fear of loud noises. In any event, these should be used sparingly and only as needed. The best treatment is prevention through the use of proper desensitization training. AGGRESSIVENESS
Of all the undesirable behaviors a dog can exhibit, this one is certainly the most disturbing and the most unacceptable. Aggressiveness can be directed toward other dogs or toward other species, including humans. Certainly dogs harboring an uncontrollable inherent aggressiveness toward the latter pose special problems to their owners in terms of liability as well. DOMINANCE
This certainly plays an important role in canine aggressiveness. Some dogs refuse to submit to authority and will lash out at anyone or anything that attempts to exert such. In many instances, these dogs were not properly socialized and/or trained when they were young. In others, sex hormones—namely, testosterone—can exert a strong influence as well. Treatment for such aggressiveness consists of a return to basic command and obedience training. In addition, exercises designed to reestablish dominance should be performed as well. If the aggression
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is directed toward a particular person, that person should be included in these exercises. Remember: Extreme caution and a good, strong muzzle are both advised before any attempts at such dominance assertion are made! For domineering male dogs, neutering is recommended prior to any attempts at retraining. FEAR AND PAIN
These are the two other common causes of aggressive showings in canines. If a dog feels threatened or overwhelmingly fearful, it naturally experiences a “fight or flight” syndrome, and might choose the former option over the latter, depending on how it perceives its situation. In addition, dogs have been known to naturally lash out in fear at humans or other animals on being startled, or more frequently, when they are experiencing pain. For this reason, sudden aggressive changes in personality with or without other signs of illness warrant a complete checkup by a veterinarian. Treating fear-induced aggression is aimed at reducing the threat you or others pose to your pet. If fear aggression is induced by some outside stimulus, such as thunder, then proper restraint and isolation are recommended while the stimulus lasts. If a dog suffers from a vision or hearing deficit, attempts should be made to capture the dog’s attention prior to approach. Also, remember that physical punishment not only is a useless tool for training but it also, by itself, can lead to natural, aggressive backlashes due to pain (and fear). This is just one more reason why such punishment should be avoided. Finally, for those dogs suffering from injuries or illnesses, owners should remember to always approach and handle them with caution, for although they might not mean to, they could exhibit aggressive tendencies due to the pain associated with the disease. TERRITORIAL DEFENSE
Dogs, male or female, will certainly defend that property they deem theirs, and they might not hesitate to fight for it. Territorial aggressiveness toward unwelcome animals or people is not uncommon, as any utility-meter reader would attest to! Such aggressive behavior can be just as easily sparked by a perceived encroachment while the dog is eating, or while it is playing with its favorite toy. Many bite wounds to humans have been inflicted because of such actions.
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Again, a return to the basics of command training should help curb some of the territorial aggressiveness that might be exhibited by some canines. Certainly, showing some respect for a dog’s “private property” (toys, bowls, etc.) and its eating privacy is a commonsense way to avoid this type of aggressive behavior. It is important to impress this concept on children, too, because they are often the most frequent violators of this rule. If a dog seems particularly possessive over toys, bones, and other objects, then the number of these objects should be reduced to only one or two items. Also, consider feeding the dog in an isolated area of the home, free from interruptions. “MEAN STREAKS”
Finally, certain breeds and canine family lines can have inherent “mean streaks” in them. For instance, chow chows are notorious among veterinary circles for their aggressiveness toward strangers. In addition, pit bull terriers, because of selective breeding, pose a real threat to any other dog that might cross their paths. In many instances, this inherent aggressiveness can be harnessed by way of proper socialization and by strict command training. Neutering can be of assistance as well in select instances. TREATMENT
The best treatment for most types of aggression is prevention. By adhering to the principles of proper socialization and by proper command training, most behavioral problems related to aggressiveness can be controlled or avoided altogether. However, for any dog exhibiting aggressiveness, a thorough physical examination and consultation with a veterinarian is warranted. Ruling out underlying medical causes is certainly one reason for this; the other is that your veterinarian might choose to prescribe medications to assist in retraining efforts or as a direct attempt to curb the psychological aspects of your dog’s aggressiveness. Antianxiety medications and behavior modification drugs are now commonly used in veterinary medicine to help assist in the correction of many behavioral problems, including aggressiveness. Don’t hesitate to ask your veterinarian for more details.
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Feline Behavioral Disorders Among cats, the three most common behavioral disorders seen include inappropriate eliminations, destructive scratching, and aggressiveness.
Inappropriate Elimination Cats exhibit two types of normal elimination behavior. The first involves urine spraying to delineate territories (the typical feline territory encompasses over one-tenth of a square mile) and to attract members of the opposite sex (see Fig. 2.17). The second type is called covering behavior, in which a cat digs a hole in the soil (or litter), eliminates in it, and then covers it to mask the scent. Most inappropriate house soiling that occurs with cats involves indulgences or deviations in one or the other. The most frequent cause of house soiling deals with the first type, territoriality and sexual behavior. Both male and female cats, neutered or not, can spray urine. A new cat in the neighborhood or a female in heat can quickly set off instinctive behavior in a male cat kept indoors and lead to inappropriate markings. Even moving into a new house or apartment in which a cat previously lived might entice your cat to go around the dwelling and mark those areas in which a scent from the previous inhabitant is picked up. Neutering might help control urine spraying in the repeat offender, yet, as mentioned before, it is not necessarily a cure-all. If there is a particular area in the house that your cat fancies the most for its sprayF I G U R E 2 . 1 7 Cats will often spray urine to ing activities, do your best mark their territories.
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to prevent its access to that part of the house. Or if you can, catch your cat in the act and punish it using a squirt from a water sprayer or a blast of air from a compressed air canister. Then leave the sprayer or canister sitting beside the soiled object or in the room for a few days. Chances are that your cat will get the drift and will abandon its tendencies to repeat the action. [Note: If plain water from your spray bottle seems to have little impact with your cat, adding a small amount of vinegar or lemon juice (2 tablespoons per cup of water) to it will impart to it an odor that is offensive to most cats.] Feline odor neutralizers can be used on carpets and furniture to help eliminate those lingering odors that might be causing the problem behavior. They should also be used anytime an elimination accident occurs outside the litterbox. These odor neutralizers are available from a veterinary clinic or a pet supply store. Household cleaners designed to simply mask odors or those containing ammonia are of no use; in fact, the latter might actually attract your cat back to the same spot. For those tough cases of urine spraying in which nothing seems to work, special drug therapy prescribed by a veterinarian might provide a satisfactory solution to the problem. However, such agents should be used only after other training methods have failed. REFUSAL TO USE THE LITTERBOX
What about the cat that has stopped using the litterbox? There could be a number of reasons for this behavior. Some cats may not like the type or brand of litter that was put in the box. Have you changed brands lately? If so, switch back to the brand you were using before the house soiling started. Remember that the texture and scent of a litter are two factors that can influence your cat’s reaction to it. Some cats become upset if too much litter is placed in the box. Cats should be able to reach the bottom of the pan when digging. If you have one of these fickle cats, restocking the box with just a 1-inch layer of litter might do the trick. Still other cats will refuse to use a litterbox that, in their minds, is dirty. Check your frequency of litter changes. If the litter is not being replaced every day, this could be the problem. If so, step up the frequency. Also, do not use strong cleansers when doing your weekly
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litterbox cleaning, as the residual scents from these might be just enough to send your cat off searching for another place to do its business. Refusal to use a litterbox may also be linked to some traumatic incident, emotionally or physically, that occurred while your cat was using the box on a previous occasion. Because of this, it now associates the box or its location with the unpleasant incident. Obviously, the best way to find out if this is indeed the cause is to move the litterbox to a different location, one that is quiet and away from disturbances. For those cats that are especially emotional, buying new litterboxes might be required. Not all causes of house soiling are psychological in nature. For instance, the presence of feline lower urinary tract disease can be the underlying cause of abnormal elimination behavior in felines. Since some of the diseases causing abnormal elimination can be lifethreatening, always let a veterinarian rule out any medical causes before concentrating on behavioral causes.
Destructive Scratching Scratching comes naturally to cats, which use this behavior to keep their retractable claws manicured and to mark their territories. As a result, scratching, though it might become destructive and annoying, should be viewed as a perfectly natural behavior. If your cat is engaged in destructive scratching, you haven’t satisfied a basic need. A scratching post is a required tool for anyone who owns a cat (Fig. 2.18). In fact, it is preferable to train a cat on a scratching post right from the start instead of bringing one in F I G U R E 2 . 1 8 A scratching post can be used to spare you furniture from the ravages of your cat’s to offset problem scratching activity. If your cat seems to claws!
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fancy one or more particular pieces of furniture in your home, see if you can catch it in the act. If you do, use a blast of water or compressed air from a sprayer or canister to reprimand it, then leave the sprayer or canister sitting beside or on top of the piece of furniture for several days. Most cats will avoid that piece of furniture like the plague from that point on. Some persons recommend commercial cat repellents or vinegar be used on furniture to discourage scratching, but these can be messy and could stain your furniture. For that feline that seems refractory to punishment, try placing the scratching post near its favorite piece of furniture and allow it to make a choice. Make the scratching post as plush and tempting as possible. Catnip attached to the post can help lure a reluctant cat to its new scratching post. Be sure to reward your cat for making the switch. Special nail covers are available through veterinarians and pet stores and can be applied to the nails of your cat to prevent scratching. Surgical removal of its front claws can also be considered to spare your house from total destruction.
Aggressiveness Because of the inherent nature of the cat, a display of aggression toward another member of its own species, especially if a territory has been violated, is somewhat common. Aggressiveness toward humans, on the other hand, can be influenced by a number of factors, including personality defects, fear, play activity, and medical disorders. Cats that have not been properly socialized to people can be expected to show some degree of aggressiveness when feeling threatened. It is also a well-known fact that even some socialized cats just want to be left alone at times and may become aggressive if disturbed. PERSONALITY DEFECTS
Personality defects can lead to true aggressive tendencies in cats. These are cats that have been poorly socialized to humans, or have experienced negative socialization. Nervous or hyperexcitable cats or those with extremely domineering personalities can also show aggressiveness at times as well. An agitated or angry cat will flag its tail and flatten its ears against its head when approached or touched. A lowpitched growl or hiss is usually heard as well.
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All aggressive cats, especially males, should be neutered or spayed. If neutering doesn’t eliminate the problem, then antianxiety medications can be used to help “take the edge off” the pugnacious feline. FEAR-INDUCED AGGRESSION
Fear-induced aggression rarely responds to training or reprimand. In fact, if such actions are attempted while the cat is in such a state, serious injury to an owner could result! The self-defense posture caused by fear-induced aggressive behavior is characterized by piloerection (hair standing on end), arched back, flattened ears, and hissing or spitting. Cats that feel threatened will lash out with their claws, and make short, sharp lunges at their adversaries. If they really sense danger, they often roll over on their backs, and assume a defense posture that will allow them to utilize the claws on all four feet. Obviously, eliminating the source of fear is the first step in managing such aggression. Afterwards, give your cat plenty of time alone to calm down and relax. A special food treat can be offered as well to help take its mind off the incident. PLAYFUL AGGRESSION
Playful aggression must be differentiated from the two previous types of aggression, since it is by far the easiest to address. This type of aggression is seen primarily in younger cats filled with youthful energy and curiosity. These cats may stalk house guests or ambush unexpecting owners when they arrive home. This behavior provides them a way to release excess energy and to practice their instinctive hunting skills. Most bites inflicted during this type of play are not meant to break the skin; however, this can certainly be a function of the game’s intensity. One physical characteristic of a mischievous cat or kitten is that they often carry their tail arched up over their back or in an inverted “U” position during these play episodes. Playful aggression can be managed by allowing your cat greater access to toys such as paper bags, ping pong balls, or windup, moving figures. If you play action games with your cat using strings attached to toys, be sure to remove these strings following a play session. Finally, taking your cat out for more walks during the day can help expend some of its pent-up energy.
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Negative reinforcement utilizing water sprayers or compressed-air canisters can also be used to break overzealous cats of their bad habits. As a last resort, simply isolating your rambunctious feline in another room while you have guests over will ensure that they are not met with any unexpected surprises! MEDICAL CAUSES
Let us not forget about medical causes for aggressiveness in cats. Cats that don’t feel good often just want to be left alone, and if they are disturbed, they may show aggressiveness. Diseases that affect the nervous system (including rabies), metabolic disorders, and pain can all have a negative effect on a cat’s personality. If your cat has experienced a gradual or sudden change in personality, have it examined by a veterinarian in order to rule out possible medical causes for the change.
CHAPTER
3
Traveling with Your Dog or Cat A
s a rule, most pets are good travel companions. Rarely do they become hysterical or sick to their stomachs when placed inside a moving object! However, whenever you plan on traveling with your dog or cat, be it on an extended vacation or a short trip to the local grocery store, there are some guidelines that you should follow to ensure a safe, pleasant experience.
Traveling by Car When traveling with your pet by automobile, always keep the safety and comfort of both driver and passenger in mind. As a result, always use a travel carrier when transporting your four-legged friend by car (Fig. 3.1). Not only will your pet feel more secure in a carrier, helping to reduce stress associated with the ride, but it will help minimize jostling and jolting movements that could injure your pet. If you have a dog that is too large to fit comfortably into one of these carriers, or if the carrier is too big for your car, then the backseat is the place to be, not the frontseat! An excited or stressed-out, unrestrained pet in the passenger seat of an automobile creates a very dangerous driving condition. In addition, dogs and cats allowed to ride in frontseats can suffer serious or even lethal injuries should airbags deploy in an accident.
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Special restraint harnesses or seatbelts are available commercially and should be used to secure your pet to its assigned seat. Even though most dogs love to stick their heads out of car windows while cars are in motion (it reminds them of the wind in their face while they are chasing prey), don’t let yours do it. Cats should always be transFIGURE 3.1 Dogs with long, floppy ears ported in sturdy carriers. can suffer trauma to their earflaps. Also, both ear and eye injuries from insects and flying road debris can easily occur in dogs allowed such freedoms. For truck owners, never allow any dog to ride in the bed of a pickup truck unless it is confined to a carrier. Many of the dogs you see lying dead along the highway met their fate as a result of owners failing to heed such commonsense advice! Keep the interior of your car cool and well ventilated. Dogs and cats that are excited and forced to travel in hot stuffy cars or those filled with cigarette smoke can hyperventilate and overheat. Cigarette smoke in itself can be quite irritating to the eyes, nose, and mucous membranes of your pet, and has even been linked to cancer in cats! Also, car exhaust fumes can quickly overcome a pet left inside an idling car. If you become stuck in traffic, be sure to crack the windows and keep the air circulating within the car. And never leave a dog or cat unattended in a parked car if outside temperatures exceed 72 degrees Fahrenheit or drop below 55 degrees Fahrenheit (Fig. 3.2). If you do, your pet could succumb to heat stroke or hypothermia, respectively. For trips over 2 hours, be sure to take plenty of breaks DID YOU KNOW to give your pet water and Second-hand cigarette smoke, either to relieve itself (for felines, inhaled or licked from the fur, has keep a clean absorbent towel been linked to cancer in cats! lining the floor of the carrier,
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Leaving your dog in a parked car even with the windows cracked can FIGURE 3.2 be hazardous to its health.
since many cats on long trips will refuse to use a litterbox if offered one). Crushed ice is a neat and spillproof way to quench a thirsty traveler’s thirst. If your pet gets car sick, try feeding a small amount of food about 30 minutes prior to your trip. Often, an empty stomach coupled with stress can predispose a pet to motion sickness. If this fails to work, an antihistamine may be administered prior to travel. Contact your veterinarian concerning the various over-the-counter medications you can use and their dosages. For those pets absolutely terrified of the car, a stronger tranquilizer prescribed by a veterinarian may be needed. Although this should be used only as a last resort, it can be an effective tool for taking the edge off your phobic friend and thereby making the ride much less stressful for everyone concerned.
Traveling by Air If you are planning to transport your pet by plane, consult a veterinarian before your trip to determine whether your pet has any medical condi-
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tions that may prohibit such travel. For example, should significant temperature and/or pressure fluctuations occur during flight, they could be harmful to a pet suffering from an underlying heart condition. Since different companies may have different policies, check ahead of time with the airline concerning its travel rules and requirements for pets. Many airlines will allow you to take a cat or small dog into the cabin with you; however, realize that for the comfort of you and fellow passengers, it must be well behaved and silent during the trip. If you fear that these two criteria will not be met, your pet should travel cargo. If your dog or cat is to travel cargo, book either an early evening or early morning flight during the summer months and midday flights during winter months to protect it from exposure to temperature extremes. Also, book direct flights only so that there’s no chance of “lost baggage.” If possible, plan on arriving early enough at the gate so that you can observe your pet being loaded onto the plane. If you own a pet carrier that is not fit for air travel, most airlines have carriers for rent; however, be sure that the carrier selected for your pet is the proper size for its safety during the flight. Call ahead of time to confirm carrier availability. You will want to pad the inside of the carrier liberally with large blankets and/or towels. And don’t forget to throw in one of your dog or cat’s favorite toys! A “live animal” sticker, as well as your name, address, and phone number, should be attached conspicuously to the outside of the carrier. Avoid feeding your pet solid food within 6 hours of the plane trip. Provide a constant source of water during the flight by freezing water in a water bowl the night prior to your trip and placDR. P’S VET TIP ing this in your pet’s carrier When transporting your prior to the flight. pet by air, book nonstop flights to reduce the chances of your pet becoming lost lugVacation Planning gage. In addition, during the summer, Prior to leaving on a vacabook flights early in the mornings or tion, there are certain items late in the evenings to avoid exposing that need to be taken care of your pet to midday heat. first. To begin, be sure you
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are aware of all the requirements necessary for taking your dog or cat to its intended destination, including required health certificates, quarantines, and customs. When traveling domestically and interstate with your pet, two items you should always have with you are your pet’s vaccination record and a current health certificate. A licensed veterinarian must issue this health certificate within 10 days of your trip. If traveling overseas, the embassy of the country of destination can inform you of all the necessary requirements for the safe and legal transport of your pet. Be sure that the carrier you have for your dog or cat is sturdy and in good condition. Also, make sure that your pet’s collar has identification tags, including a phone number, if possible, of where you’ll be staying just in case your pet gets lost. Of course, you’ll want to take a leash along for daily exercise, as well as your pet’s brush and/or comb for daily grooming. Finally, plan on taking plenty of your pet’s food along with you, just in case the brand you normally feed your pet is not available at your destination. Consult travel guides or travel agents to find listing of those motels, hotels, and campgrounds that accept pets, and plan your overnight stops around these locations. Finally, when you arrive at your destination, look in the local phone directory for the name and number of a local veterinarian in the area, in case of emergency. Try not to leave your pet unattended in your motel or hotel room. If you do, be sure to place the “Do not disturb” sign on the front door so that your pet doesn’t accidentally escape if housekeeping comes to clean your room while you are away. When camping with your pet, don’t allow it to roam or to interact with wild animals. Cats especially, being the natural-bred hunters that they are, could get themselves in trouble real quick! It’s also a great idea to have your pet checked out by a veterinarian following these camping trips to be sure that it didn’t pick up any unwanted parasites from the local fauna. Finally, there will be times when your dog or cat will be better off staying at home rather than traveling with you. In these instances, choose a kennel facility for your dog or cat as you would a hotel for yourself, making sure that it is clean, well ventilated, and staffed by a caring group of people. Many newer facilities are equipped with interactive
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cameras attached to each run or pen that can be accessed over the Internet, allowing you to check in on your pet even if you happen to be on the other side of the world! Although it costs more to board a pet at such a facility, many owners feel it is well worth the price. Another great alternative is to let your dog or cat stay home and hire a pet sitter to check in on it throughout the day. If you can’t find a neighbor or friend to oblige, check your phone book for a reliable professional pet sitter near you, or ask someone at a local veterinary clinic to recommend one to you.
CHAPTER
4
Preventive Health Care
W
hen it comes to health, pets are just like people. Some will go through their entire lives without any health problems along the way; others just seem to be prone to every illness that comes along. A number of factors play a role in the susceptibility of dogs and cats to illness, including genetics, environment, nutrition, immune system competence, and, very importantly, the extent of preventive health care provided to them by their owners. In fact, for a pet that is genetically prone to illness, this latter factor can do wonders to help counteract some of these inherent effects. Unfortunately, many pet owners fail to realize the importance of preventive health care; as a result, their pet can ultimately pay the price later in life.
At-Home Physical Exam Do you worry about your pet’s health even when it appears healthy? Your veterinarian can ensure that your dog or cat is thriving by performing a thorough checkup, but what can you do between visits? Pets cannot verbalize their discomforts, and people often worry that they’ll miss the early signs of illness. If you learn to examine your pet at home, you can have that all-important peace of mind between visits to the vet (Fig. 4.1).
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During your next visit to pet clinic, the veterinarian will probably begin with an examination of your pet. Watch how your veterinarian performs the exam and ask to participate in the process. Discuss your desire to supplement the vet’s exams with at-home checks that you will make. The veterinarian should be pleased with your desire to provide such attention to your pet’s health and should be happy to help develop your skills (Fig. 4.2). Your teamwork will provide the consistent Periodic physical exams perattention to details that FIGURE 4.1 formed at home are a vital part of your pet’s precould prevent a tragedy. ventive health care program. At-home examinations are no substitute for a veterinary checkup, but doing them might one day give you a jump on treating a minor or serious condition. For convenience, these exams can be combined with regular grooming sessions. Use the physical exam checklist in Table 4.1 as your guide. Also, see Fig. 4.3 for instructions on how to take your pet’s temperature (see also Table 4.2), pulse, and respiratory readings. Finally, get into the habit of weighing your pet every 3 months and recording your readings. Unexplained weight loss or weight gain or a pattern of continual loss or gain should prompt you to contact your veterinarian. Also check for other signs of illness, such as a visible “third eyelid” in cats (Fig. 4.4).
Vaccinations and the ABCs of Immunity The theory behind vaccinating any pet is to provide artificial exposure to certain disease-causing organisms, thereby priming the body’s immune system before actual exposure occurs (Fig. 4.5). Doing so will
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FIGURE 4.2
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Preventive health care can help your cat live a happy and healthy
life.
allow for a rapid, effective immune response if this exposure does happen, without the lag time associated with a first exposure. If the mother has been properly vaccinated prior to pregnancy, most puppies and kittens receive protective antibodies from their mother through nursing, primarily during the first 24 hours of life. These “passive” antibodies are important, since the immune system of a neonate less than 6 weeks of age is incapable of mounting an effective response to any antigen (foreign organism or substance). Around 8 weeks of age, levels of these antibodies begin to taper off, leaving the pet to fend for itself. If a puppy or kitten that still has adequate levels of passive antibodies present in its system is immunized, the vaccination will be rendered ineffective. For this reason, initial vaccinations are usually given around
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Table 4.1 Physical Exam Checklist for Dogs and Cats Date
Temperature
Weight
General evaluation —Alert
—Disinterested
—Active
—Lethargic
—Healthy appetite
—Poor appetite
—Playful
—Weight loss/gain
—Lameness
—Abnormal posture
—Abnormal aggressiveness Skin and haircoat —Appear normal
—Shedding
—Hair loss
—Mats
—Dull; unkempt
—Tumors or warts
—Scaly
—Parasites
—Dry
—Abnormal lumps under the skin
—Oily
—Crusts on neck and head
—Itching Eyes —Appear normal
—Haziness/cloudiness
—Clear discharge
—Unequal pupil size
—Mucus discharge
—Discoloration
—Redness
—Squinting
—Eyelid abnormalities
—Protruding third eyelids
Ears —Appear normal
—Hair loss on pinnae
—Red; swollen
—Bad odor
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Table 4.1 Physical Exam Checklist for Dogs and Cats (Continued) —Itchy
—Masses
—Creamy, yellow discharge
—Tender
—Brown to black discharge
—Head tilt
—Head shaking Nose and throat —Appear normal
—Ulceration on nose
—Nasal discharge
—Crusty nose
—Enlarged lymph nodes (feel on either side of the neck just under the jaw) Mouth, teeth, and gums —Appear normal
—Tooth loss
—Broken, discolored, or loose teeth
—Inflamed gums
—Foul odor
—Excess salivation
—Tartar accumulation
—Pale gums
—Growths or masses
—Ulcers
—Base of tongue inflamed
—Foreign body noted
Miscellaneous —Abdominal tenderness
—Increased water consumption
—Coughing
—Decreased water consumption
—Breathing difficulties
—Genital discharge
—Abnormal stools
—Mammary lumps
—Straining to urinate
—Swollen limb
8 weeks of age, when levels of passive antibodies begin to decrease. Vaccination as early as 6 weeks of age may be indicated in those instances where the mother has not been vaccinated, or if lack of passive antibody absorption is a possibility (i.e., inadequate nursing during the first hours of life).
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FIGURE 4.3
Use a digital thermometer to obtain your pet’s temperature.
Vaccinating Your Dog Table 4.2 Potential Causes of Elevated Body Temperature in Dogs and Cats Fear or excitement High environmental temperature Exercise Infection Tissue inflammation or trauma Autoimmune disease Cancer Drug reactions Endocrine disorders (e.g., hyperthyroidism)
Four core vaccines should be administered to all dogs. These include those protecting against distemper, parvovirus, adenovirus (infectious canine hepatitis), and rabies. Other vaccines, including those against parainfluenza, canine contagious respiratory disease (kennel cough; Bordetella), leptospirosis, coronavirus, lyme disease, and Giardia are optional, and should be administered only upon
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the recommendation of your veterinarian. See Table 4.3 for current recommendations.
Vaccinating Your Cat Five core vaccines should be administered to all cats. These include vaccines against panleukopenia (parvovirus), herpesvirus (viral rhinotracheitis), calicivirus, feline leukemia (FeLV), and rabies. Other vaccines, inProtrusion of the third eyelids cluding those for the feline F I G U R E 4 . 4 is a sign of illness in cats. immunodeficiency virus (feline AIDS), feline infectious peritonitis (FIP), ringworm, Chlamydophila, and Bordetella are optional, and should be administered only on veterinary recommendation. Table 4.4 lists current vaccination recommendations for cats. As you can see from Tables 4.3 and 4.4, the school of thought regarding Immunizations are an imporcanine and feline immuniza- F I G U R E 4 . 5 tant line of defense against disease. tions has changed. Many veterinary practitioners and veterinary schools are using extended vaccination schedules in lieu of the traditional “yearly booster” approach. These changes in traditional protocol are based on research findings indicating that ■ Certain vaccines may provide extended immunity and, in some
cases, lifelong immunity after an initial series of immunizations.
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F
ACT
OR
FICTION
Vaccines given to puppies 8 weeks of age or younger are generally ineffective. F A C T . Vaccines administered before a puppy is 8 weeks old are rendered useless by antibodies that the puppy received from its mother while nursing. In addition, even if the puppy did not receive such antibodies, its immune system is often too immature at 6 weeks of age to respond effectively to antigenic stimulations.
■ Vaccines
administered after this immunity has been established may be neutralized and rendered ineffective by the pet’s immune system.
■ Repeated immunization
using certain vaccine agents, especially those that contain adjuvants (chemical compounds designed to increase the effectiveness of the vaccine), has been linked to allergic reactions, autoimmune disease, and feline sarcoma, a deadly form of cancer in cats.
Discussion Research also suggests that individual vaccines that provide protection against a single type of disease (“univalent” vaccines) should be administered in lieu of those containing multiple agents that stimulate immunity against more than one type of disease (“multivalent” vaccines). The traditional “5-way” and “7-way” vaccines used in pets for years are examples of multivalent vaccines. Even though it may mean more needles for your pet, the protection conferred by univalent vaccines is deemed superior to that of the multivalent varieties. Regardless of types of vaccines used and frequency of immunizations, such a protocol must be one that provides maximum protection with minimum risk to the pet. One option that many veterinarians are now offering prior to vaccinating a pet is antibody titer testing. With such testing, levels of antibodies to the various disease agents are measured in a blood sample. If a specific antibody titer (the level of antibodies in the blood) is deemed protective, no vaccination is necessary. However, if this level is too low, then a vaccine can be given to stimulate the body to produce a protective level once again. Be sure to ask your veterinarian about titer testing and about the latest research findings regarding canine and feline immunology. Your pet’s health depends on it!
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Table 4.3 Canine Vaccine Schedule Vaccine
Initial series
Booster interval
16 weeks
Every 1–3 years, depending on the state in which you live
Core group Rabies
1 year ⫹ 4 months Distemper
8 weeks
Every 3–7 years or as recommended by veterinarian
12 weeks 16 weeks 1 year ⫹ 4 months Parvovirus
8 weeks
Every 3–7 years or as recommended by veterinarian
12 weeks 16 weeks 1 year ⫹ 4 months Adenovirus
8 weeks
Every 3–7 years or as recommended by veterinarian
Bordetella (intranasal)
10 days prior to boarding, grooming, and dog shows
Every 6 months as needed
Parainfluenza
As recommended by veterinarian
Leptospirosis
As recommended by veterinarian
Lyme disease
As recommended by veterinarian
Giardia
As recommended by veterinarian
Coronavirus
As recommended by veterinarian
Noncore group
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Table 4.4 Feline Vaccine Schedule Vaccine
Initial series
Interval for boosters
16 weeks
Every 1–3 years, depending on state
Core group Rabies
1 year ⫹ 4 months Herpes/calicivirus 8 weeks
Intranasal vaccine an nually or as recommended by veterinarian
12 weeks 16 weeks 1 year ⫹ 4 months Panleukopenia
8 weeks
As recommended by veterinarian
12 weeks 16 weeks 1 year ⫹ 4 months Feline leukemia
9–12 weeks 12–16 weeks
Noncore group Chlamydophila
As recommended by veterinarian
Bordetella
As recommended by veterinarian
Feline infectious peritonitis (FIP)
As recommended by veterinarian
Feline immuodeficiency virus
As recommended by veterinarian
As recommended by veterinarian
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Controlling Internal Parasites Left undetected and untreated, intestinal parasites can rob your dog or cat of much-needed nutrients, can cause severe gastrointestinal upset, and can predispose it to secondary disease. Internal parasites are widespread throughout the pet population. To make matters worse, many internal parasites of dogs and cats are also classified as zoonotic diseases; that is, they can be directly communicable to humans, especially children. As a result, controlling intestinal parasites is a vital part of any preventive health care program. Management of intestinal worms should begin when a puppy or kitten is as young as 3 weeks of age. At this age, these infants can harbor immature hookworms and roundworms without any evidence of eggs shed in the stool. Puppies and kittens should receive medications for these parasites at 3, 6, and 9 weeks of age, regardless of whether eggs are detected in their stool.
Stool Examinations More treatments might be necessary for those puppies or kittens found to be actually harboring worms. Stool examinations on such a pet should be performed by a veterinarian at 6, 9, and 12 weeks of age to ensure that it is indeed free of these parasites and is not shedding eggs into the environment. Frequent stool checks such as these will also assist in the detection of two other common intestinal parasites: tapeworms and coccidia. The latter parasite can especially cause severe gastroenteritis and sometimes even neurological problems in puppies and kittens if left undetected and untreated. Most heartworm preventives available for dogs also contain medication to protect against common canine intestinal parasites. As a result, if your pet is taking such medication (and it should be!), it does not need to be routinely dewormed. However, your pet’s stools should still be examined for parasite eggs at least once a year, just to be safe. Stool exams should also be conducted on any ill animal, regardless of clinical signs. Even when the worms do not directly cause the illness, their mere presence and effect on the host’s immune system can exacerbate any disease, regardless of cause.
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Environmental Sanitation Aside from routine stool checks, good environmental sanitation is another way to lessen the impact of intestinal parasites. Many parasite eggs that are shed into the environment via feces take days of sitting in the sunlight or in other favorable environmental conditions before becoming infective to other pets. As a result, keeping all fecal matter (either your pet’s or that of an unwelcome visitor) cleaned up out of your pet’s environment (or litterbox) on a daily basis is a very effective way of protecting your pet (and yourself) from these worms.
Controlling Fleas and Ticks Much confusion exists about the proper approaches to external parasite control and prevention in pets. Many different products are now available for external parasite control. The key to successful control is to choose and properly use the products that provide the best possible results for the specific external parasite and environment involved.
Flea Control Fleas are by far the most common external parasites with which your dog or cat will have to contend. Effective flea control entails not only treatment for fleas on the pet but environmental control as well (Fig. 4.6). Consult with your veterinarian concerning the best approach to take to relieve your pet of these pesky parasites. INSECTICIDE SPRAYS, POWDERS, COLLARS, AND DIPS
Once serving as the vanguard in the war against fleas and ticks, these products are being replaced by newer, more effective agents. However, some can still be helpful in certain situations, and warDID YOU KNOW rant mention here. Not only can their annoying bites Flea and tick sprays, produce extreme discomfort and even available in both liquid and allergic reactions, fleas are also the aerosol forms, are useful for source of the most common tapeworm spot treatments. Sprays conthat affect cats, Dipylidium caninum. taining natural chemicals
?
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called pyrethrins, derived from chrysanthemums, are the preferred products over others for flea control because of their safety and efficacy if used properly. The major advantage of natural pyrethrins is that they are relatively safe for use on pets of all ages. The disadvantage is that they have poor residual flea-fighting activity, lasting only a day or so. Newer, synthetic pyrethrin products available on the market today have improved this residual F I G U R E 4 . 6 With the advent of sophistiactivity while still main- cated methods and products, flea control has never been easier! taining a good safety margin. If pyrethrin products are used, frequent spray application, both on the pet and in its environment (bedding, carpeting, etc.), is imperative for effective flea control. In some instances, this means on a daily basis. Just be sure before doing so to check the label on the particular product you are using to confirm the safety of this practice. If you are in doubt, always follow label directions! As with the sprays, pyrethrin-containing powders are preferred over others because of their low toxicity potentials. Powders do not evaporate like liquid prodDR. P’S VET TIP ucts; therefore, under dry When applying any type conditions, powders stay of spray to the haircoat of active on the hair and skin a cat, avoid spraying it somewhat longer than do directly on the coat. sprays. Again, frequent Instead, saturate a washcloth or towel application is required for with the solution and then rub it on best results. Exposure to the haircoat. Your cat is much less water inactivates most likely to object to treatment that way. insecticide powders.
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Insecticide shampoos and collars are common items in both retail stores and in most veterinary clinics. However, since frequent shampooing can lead to excessively dry skin, and collars are of little use to begin with, these products are not recommended for flea control. Dips, which are simply highly concentrated preparations of insecticides, are also no longer recommended for flea and tick control, because of their highly toxic nature and the advent of newer, safer products. SECOND-GENERATION (ONCE-A-MONTH) PRODUCTS
When treating for parasites on your dog or cat, a number of products designed to be administered only once per month are now available. For instance, fipronil (Frontline®) kills adult fleas on pets and helps to break the flea life cycle by killing immature fleas before they can lay eggs. This product is also effective against ticks that your pet may encounter in the woods or field. Applied as a spray or topical drops, fipronil collects within the hair follicles and sebaceous glands of the skin, providing good residual action after initial application. Imidacloprid (Advantage®) is yet another addition to the flea-control arsenal that can be incorporated into a comprehensive flea-control program. Imidacloprid works by killing adult fleas on contact, before they can lay eggs. Applied as topical drops on the back, according to the manufacturer, this product retains its effectiveness even after shampooing or repeated swimming. Lufenuron (Program®, Sentinel®) is a product designed to be taken internally by your dog. Available in tablet form, lufenuron exerts its flea control action by sterilizing the fleas that bite the dog. Since they cannot reproduce, fleas are eventually eliminated (in a contained environment) via attrition. It is important to remember that lufenuron does not actually kill fleas. As a result, products that kill adult fleas must be used in conjunction with this treatment in order to achieve effective flea control. As one might expect, many veterinarians recommend this product only for those dogs kept in an indoor (contained) DID YOU KNOW environment. Since the advent of newer, safer flea-
?
control products, the incidence of insecticide-related poisoning in cats has decreased dramatically!
NATURAL REMEDIES
Throughout the years, countless natural remedies
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for parasite control have been touted as effective alternatives to insecticides. Some of these substances or devices are worn or applied externally; some are designed to be taken internally. Products such as brewer’s yeast, garlic, and B vitamins have all been implicated at one time or another as flea-control remedies. Unfortunately, controlled scientific studies indicate little to no benefit in flea control with these products. In addition, some natural substances can be highly toxic to cats. Check with a veterinarian before giving any natural remedy to your cat. Certain products containing abrasive-type ingredients (e.g., silica gel and diatomaceous earth) are available for external flea control. These noninsecticidal products act by damaging the chitin exoskeleton of the flea, leading to desiccation (drying up) and death of the flea. Moderate success has been reported with these abrasive-type products. Drying and/or mild irritation of the pet’s skin may occur with these products. Frequent application (four to seven times weekly) is required if these are to be used. Electronic flea collars have limited popularity, as well as limited benefits. Although manufacturers may stand by their efficacy, scientific studies have shown that their worth in controlling external parasites is minimal. The idea behind them is that the device emits a high-pitched sound that can’t be heard by humans or pets, yet it drives fleas away. Unfortunately, aside from their relative ineffectiveness, some models might indeed deliver an audible pitch that can be heard by—and might be quite discomforting to—the dog or cat wearing the collar. ENVIRONMENTAL CONTROL
Environmental control of fleas begins in the home (Fig. 4.7). You can use insecticidal foggers to get the job done, or you can employ a professional exterminator. For excellent results, you can also use polymerized borate compounds, available under various brand names from a veterinary clinic or pet supply store. Sprinkled on the carpets, baseboards, and/or furniture, these compounds will kill all fleas that come in contact with them. Noticeable results are usually obtained within a week after application. Best of all, these powders are odorless, easy to use, and safe for pets and children. Under normal conditions, application of
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this product must be performed every 6 to 12 months. Carpets must remain dry for continued efficacy; if the carpet becomes damp or is shampooed, reapplication will be necessary. Your yard should be treated with insecticidal granules every 6 to 8 weeks during the warm months of the year. Alternating the types of insecticidal granules used with each treatment (several different types are available commercially) can improve effectiveness of your overall control program.
Tick Control Besides fleas, the next most prevalent external parasite that your dog or cat will likely encounter is the tick. Dogs are more likely than cats to be parasitized by ticks, since cats, because of their meticulous grooming habits, rarely afford a tick the time it needs to attach itself. Regardless, controlling ticks on your pet and in your environment is important not only for your pet’s health but for yours as well. These unsightly parasites, which attach themselves to their host via sucking mouthparts, can transmit serious diseases such as Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever and Lyme disease to pets and to people. As far as their four-legged hosts are concerned, untreated infestations can also lead to skin irritation and in severe cases, blood-loss anemia. Female ticks lay their eggs in and under sheltered areas in the environment, such as wood stumps, rocks, and wall crevices. Once hatched, the larvae, called “seed ticks,” will crawl up onto grass stems or bushes and attach themselves to a host that may happen to pass by. Depending on their life cycle, immature ticks may seek out one to three different host animals to complete the maturation process into an adult. Since ticks are sensitive Environmental treatment is FIGURE 4.7 to the same type of chemirequired for effective flea control.
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cals as are fleas, treatment and control are basically the same. Certain topical once-a-month treatments for fleas in dogs and cats can be effective in controlling ticks as well. Ask a veterinarian for details. Flea and tick collars can be effective at keeping ticks out of the ears. Just be sure that if you plan to use one on your cat, it is of the “breakaway” variety that is designed to snap apart in case it gets snagged on a fence or tree branch. A pyrethrin spray or powder can also be applied to your pet’s haircoat prior to a trip outdoors to discourage ticks from attaching. Certainly a thorough and consistent treatment of the yard (and sometimes the house) with an approved insecticide is the cornerstone of an effective control program. Since ticks can live for months in their surrounding habitat without a blood meal, treatment should be performed every 2 to 4 weeks during the peak tick seasons in your area. If a tick happens to attach itself to your pet, use a pyrethrin spray to kill it. Never attempt to remove ticks from your dog or cat by applying manual pressure alone, or by applying a hot match or needle to the tick’s body. Most ticks first killed by the application of a pyrethrin spray will fall off with time once they die. In some cases, you may need to manually remove the dead tick after spraying. When picking them off your pet, never use your bare hands, in order to prevent accidental exposure to disease. Instead, use a pair of gloves and tweezers to grasp the dead tick as close to its attachment site as possible, then pull straight up using constant tension. Once the tick is freed, wash the bite wound with soap and water and then apply a first aid cream or ointment to prevent infection. Again, be sure that the tick is completely dead before removal; this will ensure that the tick’s mouthparts come out attached to the rest of the body. If left behind, the mouthparts can cause an irritating localized skin reaction.
Preventing Heartworm Disease Heartworm disease is a devastating illness of dogs, responsible for tens of thousands of deaths each year. Most of these occur due to the destruction that these worms do to not just the heart, but the lungs, liver, and kidneys as well. In some cases, the worm burden within the heart and blood vessels can become so great that circulation of blood is actually compro-
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mised, resulting in sudden death. Other infected dogs Even if the heartworm can go years without showpreventive medication is ing any signs of heartworm not required year-round disease, seemingly forming in your area, you should still give it to a symbiotic relationship your pet all throughout the year. The with the parasites. Regardreason: Most preventives sold on the less of its presentation, the market today also prevent infestations presence of heartworm diswith intestinal parasites (some of ease puts a tremendous burwhich can be zoonotic, including den on the body’s organs roundworms), providing an important and immune system (Fig. source of continual protection not only 4.8). (For more information for your dog but for you and your family as well. regarding canine heartworm disease, see Chapter 7.) The good news is that this destructive disease is completely and easily preventable! The most popular heartworm preventive medications come in tablet form or as topical “spot-ons” and are designed to be given just once a month. If your dog is not currently on a heartworm prevention program, call right now and schedule an appointment with your veterinarian to start one (Fig. 4.9). As a responsible pet owner, you owe it to your companion! In warmer clients where mosquitoes are present nearly year-round, the heartworm preventive must be given 12 months out of the year. In contrast, in those regions that experience seasonal changes and lower temperatures, the preventive need not be given for the entire year but only during the warmer mosquito season. Be sure to consult your veterinarian as to the proper preventive schedule to follow in your particular area. Before starting a dog on heartworm preventive medication, a simple blood test needs to be performed to determine if exposure to The mosquito is the vector for FIGURE 4.8 heartworms has already both feline and canine heartworm disease.
DR. P’S VET TIP
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occurred (Fig. 4.10). If the test results are negative, then your dog may be started on a preventive. However, if the test returns positive for heartworms, then treatment options must be discussed. Furthermore, if you are currently giving your pet preventive medication and you miss a scheduled administration, consult a veterinarian before resuming the treatments. Depending on how late you are on the treat- F I G U R E 4 . 9 All dogs should be taking ment, retesting may be rec- heartworm preventive medicine. ommended. For those dogs on a seasonal prevention program, blood retesting should be performed before the first preventive medication of the season is given. Although cats are not the natural host of heartworms, they can infest the heart and vessels of this species as well, with serious consequences. Even though the number of worms typically found in an infected feline’s heart is usually small, these worms still take up a lot of space and interfere with proper heart function. The challenge is that cats afflicted with this parasitism are difficult to treat, because killing the adult worms in the relatively small heart and lungs of cats (when compared to dogs) can cause life-threatening blockages to proper blood circulation. As a result, preventing this disease from the start is the key. And the good news is that, as in dogs, it is easy to do so. Feline heartworm preventive medication comes in tablet form, and is designed to be given just once a month as well. Ask a veterinarian for details.
Dental Care Periodontal disease, or tooth-and-gum disease, is one of the most common diseases affecting pets today. In fact, most dogs and cats show
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FIGURE 4.10
Drawing blood for a heartworm test.
some signs of this disease by 3 years of age. Signs can include tender, swollen gums, excessive drooling, loss of appetite, and bad breath. A complete dental exam should be performed on all pets at least once a year. For smaller breeds more prone to periodontal disease, these exams should be done every 6 months. If dental calculus is present at the gumline, the veterinarian should professionally clean the teeth (Fig. 4.11). Because this cleaning can be a painful procedure, especially if periodontal disease already exists, a short-acting sedative or anesthetic is essential for your pet’s comfort and safety. An ultrasonic dental scaler, combined with manual scaling instruments, is used to break apart and remove the hard calculus and deposits from the tooth surfaces. Afterward, the teeth are polished with a special paste to restore their natural smooth surfaces. Your pet’s dental care doesn’t stop there, though! At-home aftercare is a vital part of your pet’s dental health. Toothpaste, gels, and rinses
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formulated for use in pets are readily available from pet stores or from veterinary offices. Choose one that contains chlorhexidine, as this antibacterial compound can remain effective for up to 12 hours after application. Human toothpaste should not be used, as it can cause stomach upset if swallowed by Professional cleaning will be your pet. Also, the much- F I G U R E 4 . 1 1 needed to effectively remove dental calculus advocated home formula from your pet’s teeth. mixing baking soda and salt in water can be effective as a toothpaste alternative, yet, because of the high sodium content of this mixture, it should not be used in older pets or in those pets suffering from heart ailments. A regular, soft-bristled, human toothbrush can be used to apply the dental product. For cats and smaller dogs, a child’s toothbrush can be substituted. However, for best result, purchase a special “finger” brush that fits on the end of your finger (Fig. 4.12). These can be purchased at any pet supply store. Apply the paste, gel, or solution to the brush, and proceed to brush as you would your own teeth, concentrating on the gumline as well as the outsides of the large premolars and canine teeth. No rinsing is necessary. What about flossing? Yes, you can floss your dog’s teeth, but not in the conventional way. Flossing devices in the form of chew toys have been developed to assist in dental hygiene (Fig. 4.13). Don’t laugh; such devices can have a significant impact on dental health, assuming, of course, that your pet will play with them. Rawhides, nylon chew bones, and urethane chewing devices can also prove helpful in mechanically removing plaque from canine dental surfaces. Contrary to popular belief, feeding hard chew biscuits does little by itself to prevent periodontal disease; in fact, the starchy nature of such food items can promote plaque formation. The same holds true for most hard dry foods, although most contain substantially less
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You can use your finger to FIGURE 4.12 apply dental paste along the gumline to help prevent periodontal disease.
plaque-promoting sugar than do their moist counterparts. Special diets do exist that contain ingredients to help control tartar buildup in dogs and cats. Ask a veterinarian if such a diet would be right for your pet. Remember: Good dental hygiene is important to the health of your pet. In fact, it can help it live a longer, happier life. If you have any questions concerning your pet’s dental health, don’t hesitate to confer with a veterinarian.
Feeding Your Pet There can be little doubt that proper nutrition is the cornerstone of a long, healthy life for all pets. As our understanding of the link between diet and health increases each day, so does the quality of foods that are available to feed your pet. Not long ago, the diet of most dogs and cats consisted primarily of table scraps, supplemented by whatever other
FIGURE 4.13
Dental floss for dogs.
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foods they could find while roaming freely. Today, our pets more often than not live indoors with us, and it is much more practical to feed them commercially prepared food that is complete and balanced for the particular stage of life of each pet. While the quality of nutrition for dogs and cats has improved considerably with the increasing use of prepared pet foods, there remains a great deal you should know about choosing the proper diet for your pet from among the many thousands of brands available in this country alone. Because dogs and cats move through several “life stages” as they age, it is easiest to discuss the nutritional needs of these different life stages separately and in the order in which the pet experiences them.
Nutrition for Puppies and Kittens For most dogs and cats, childhood lasts for about 1 year, although very large breed dogs (Great Danes, Newfoundlands, St. Bernards, etc.) may continue to grow rapidly until they are 18 to 24 months of age. During this time, puppies and kittens requires higher levels of minerals such as calcium and phosphorus, protein, vitamins, and energy (calories) than they will as an adult. Therefore, foods fed to young, growing pets should contain these higher levels in balance with each other and with all other dietary nutrients. Such a pet food will carry a designation such as “canine growth,” or “kitten food,” to distinguish it from diets that contain levels of nutrients that are right for other stages of life. Please note that the commonly held belief that if “a little is good, more must be better” is not true when it comes to feeding pets. Diets that contain very high levels of minerals, protein, and some vitamins are not superior to those that contain only the DR. P’S VET TIP amounts required for growth. Be careful not to overfeed Excesses can actually be growing puppies, espeharmful to the growing cially fast-growing large breeds. To do pups and kittens, as can the so could lead to arthritis later in life. practice of supplementing a As far as how much to feed, follow the good growth diet with varimanufacturer’s recommendation for the ous human foods or vitaparticular food you are using. min/mineral preparations.
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For instance, scientific studies have shown that high calcium and phosphorus intake by young dogs can lead to a variety of bone problems, especially in large, rapidly growing dogs. In addition, research has also shown that allowing your puppy to overeat even a high-quality, wellbalanced growth diet can lead to some of these same problems because the pup grows too rapidly as a result of the increased food intake. To be sure that your puppy or kitten gets all the good nutrition it needs for good growth and development, but never too much, follow these simple guidelines: 1. Feed a high-quality, balanced commercial puppy food for puppies or kitten food for kittens. A veterinarian can recommend an appropriate brand. Remember that your pet’s nutrition will influence its lifelong health and happiness. It is very important that you invest in good nutrition at this crucial life stage. 2. If you own a large breed puppy that will have an adult weight exceeding 55 pounds, consider feeding it a diet specially designed for its growth needs. These diets contain controlled levels of fat, calories, and minerals when compared to conventional puppy foods in order to promote a proper growth rate, thereby guarding against bone and skeletal disorders that can be caused by extrafast growth in large breed puppies. Ask a veterinarian to recommend such a diet for your dog. 3. Do not supplement a quality, balanced food; you will almost certainly create an imbalance in your pet’s diet if you do. Avoid giving table food, table scraps, or treats and snacks to your puppy or kitten for the same reason (Fig. 4.14). 4. Kittens can be fed free-choice; however, follow the daily recommendations given on the food bag or can and don’t offer more than these amounts. Do not feed puppies free-choice. Most pups are very eager eaters and will tend to eat too much of a high-quality, highly palatable (good-tasting) diet. It is much better to put down one-half of the recommended daily ration amount (as stated on the bag or can) for a limited time period, say, 30 minutes. Allow your pup to eat all that it wishes to eat in that time, and then pick up any uneaten food and save it until the next feeding. Later on in the day, feed the second half of the daily ration, along with the food not eaten at the first sitting.
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5. Keep fresh, clean water (preferably filtered) available at all times (Fig. 4.15).
Nutrition for Adults At about 12 months of age, switch your pet to a maintenance diet for adults. Once your puppy or kitten is grown, its nutritional needs are reduced considerably from those during the rapid development of that first year. Continuing to feed your adult pet high levels of minerals (particularly calcium and phosphorus), protein, and energy (calories) could lead to problems later in life. Just as we are finding that excess intake of certain dietary nutrients (like phosphorus, sodium, and fat) are harmful for humans over long periods, certain excesses might also contribute to diseases such as kidney failure, heart failure, obesity, and diabetes in adult and senior pets. Also, we know that reducing the level of key nutrients in the adult’s diet to meet but not greatly exceed its needs is never harmful. Good quality, scientifically designed,
Feeding table scraps will proFIGURE 4.14 mote an annoying begging habit.
For better health, consider FIGURE 4.15 offering your dog filtered water instead of plain tap water.
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adult-maintenance diets always contain these reduced and balanced nutrient levels. Guidelines for feeding adult dogs and cats include 1. Feed a high-quality, complete, and balanced diet specifically designed for adults. Be aware that foods that say they are “complete and balanced for all life stages” are actually designed for puppies and kittens, since they have been formulated to meet the needs of the most demanding life stage, namely, growth. They contain excesses of most nutrients for adults and seniors. 2. It is best not to give supplements or treats to your adult dog or cat. If you must give an occasional food snack, use either a small amount of the regular food, or fresh, unsalted vegetables cut up in bite-size pieces. 3. Most dogs can receive their allotted daily ration at one sitting. Adult cats can be fed free-choice. Use the manufacturer’s recommended feeding amounts as a starting point only. If your pet gains weight, reduce the portion offered. If your pet starts to lose weight, increase the amount you feed. A veterinarian can help you decide what your pet’s optimum weight should be. Once you know this, weigh your pet periodically to prevent weight loss or gain from becoming a problem. 4. Some pets show a pronounced tendency to gain weight as they grow older, despite eating only moderate amounts of an adult maintenance diet. For these, follow the instructions for DID YOU KNOW overweight pets in this Cats can starve themselves to death. chapter. Whereas otherwise healthy dogs will 5. Dogs that are very active, eventually give in to hunger pressures, work regularly, have nercats can be more stubborn. If they go vous dispositions, or are without food long enough, they can simply not eager eaters develop life-threatening malnutrition should be fed a ration that and hepatic lipidosis! contains extra calories. In
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addition, pregnant dogs and cats will need extra nutrition during the last few weeks of pregnancy and throughout lactation (Fig. 4.16). Growth diets fulfill this role well. Feed such a food starting in the last trimester of pregnancy and continue it until all puppies or kittens are weaned. Also, feed her free-choice, and do not add vitamin/mineral supplements unless your veterinarian recommends it.
Pregnant and lactating females should be fed a “growth” formula to FIGURE 4.16 provide added nutritional support.
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6. Keep fresh, clean water (preferably filtered) available at all times. A word about bones: To get to the point, natural bones should not be fed to dogs. Now some might scoff at this, saying that dogs have been surviving on bones for centuries. While this is true, we still don’t know how many of those dogs succumbed to impactions and to intestinal perforations. Why take a chance? Bones, regardless of type, can splinter, causing penetrating wounds within the gastrointestinal tract. They can also add unwanted amounts of minerals to the diet. Nylon and/or compressed rawhide substitutes more than adequately satisfy that bone-chewing urge and are much safer (Fig. 4.17).
Nutrition for the Older Pet Once your pet is 7 years old (5 years old for large breed dogs), another dietary change becomes necessary. As people and animals age, many organ systems begin to show the effects of wear and tear. The kidneys especially begin to lose the ability to handle waste materials that must be removed from the bloodstream and excreted in the urine. Even older dogs and cats that appear to be in perfect health could have kidneys that function much less effectively than they used to. DR. P’S VET TIP Guidelines for feeding Feeding your cat a highthe older pets include quality, highly digestible 1. Feed a high-quality pet diet will cut down on litfood specifically designed terbox odor as well as litterbox mess. for the senior pet. A veterinarian can advise you of any special health problems that your pet already has and any other dietary changes that might be necessary. In many cases of “old age” diseases, special Rawhide bones are relatively FIGURE 4.17 safe alternatives to real bones. foods can be prescribed
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along with medication to help manage these conditions. For instance, studies have shown that feeding a diet rich in antioxidants can help lessen age-related senility.
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DR. P’S VET TIP Food palatability can be enhanced by increasing a food’s odor or changing its texture. Odor can be enhanced by warming the food or by adding bouillon or gravy to it. The texture of a ration can be changed by blending it or cooking it further.
2. If you notice your older pet gaining or losing weight, consult with a veterinarian about any changes in diet that can correct the problem. At the same time, the vet will check for any medical problem that might be contributing to the change in weight. 3. Do not supplement your older pet’s diet with anything unless a veterinarian specifically recommends it. Senior digestive systems are even more sensitive than younger ones to the unbalancing effects of frequent snacks, treats, and table food added to the diet. 4. Take your “senior” for regular (at least once a year) medical checkups to catch problems early or prevent them altogether. The right diet throughout life is an important part of a sound preventive medicine program to safeguard the health and long life of your treasured pet. 5. Keep fresh, clean, filtered water available at all times.
Dietary Management of Disease For years, medical research has been telling us about the benefits of eating a well-balanced diet for good health. In addition, we also know that special modification of the dietary intake in the presence of a disease state can be helpful in the treatment and/or long-term management of the condition. This same nutritional health concept can be applied to dogs and cats as well. Many disease conditions in dogs and cats, such as obesity (yes, obesity is a disease!), heart disease, kidney disease, and gastrointestinal
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disease, can be effectively controlled, and sometimes even cured, through diet modification alone. For example, obesity, constipation, certain types of colitis, and diabetes mellitus all warrant an increase in the amount of fiber present in the ration. Dogs suffering from diarrhea, excessive gas production, and/or pancreatic problems can benefit from diets that are more easily digestible than standard maintenance rations. Cats suffering from certain types of feline lower urinary tract disease benefit from diets that acidify the urine and contain low levels of magnesium and other trace minerals. Finally, recommended management of dogs and cats suffering from kidney disease includes diets low in phosphorus and containing only the highest quality proteins. These special diets or rations aimed at fighting or counteracting diseases can be purchased through a veterinarian, or can be prepared at home via veterinary-supplied recipes. In general, the commercially prepared products are preferred over the homemade rations. The cost of these diets is negligible when compared to continuing veterinary bills and the poor quality of life that would result by not feeding them. Just remember to follow the veterinarian’s directions closely as to amounts and frequency of feeding of these diets if they are indeed used.
Battling Obesity in Dogs and Cats Obesity is certainly one of the most prevalent diseases affecting the pet population today. For years, the frequency of this health disorder was skyrocketing at an alarming pace, owing primarily to improper feeding practices and inadequate time spent exercising due to owners’ perceived lack of time (Fig. 4.18). Sounds a lot like the cause of most obesity in humans, doesn’t it? In fact, dogs and cats are not much different from us in this respect. The problem, however, is that most overweight pets were made that way not by themselves, but by their owners! Unfortunately, few owners realize that by encouraging their pet to get fat, they are at the same time endangering its health and unfairly reducing its quality of life. The health-related ramifications in dogs and cats are the same as in people. Although pets don’t suffer from atherosclerosis and “heart attacks” as we do, obesity does place a great strain on their car-
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diovascular systems. Other internal organs suffer the consequences as well. For instance, obesity promotes pancreatitis in dogs and liver disease in cats. Obese canines seem to suffer from more skin ailments and coat disorders than do their slim and trim counterparts. Musculoskeletal disorders, including intervertebral disk disease, occur with greater frequency in dogs carrying around excessive weight. In summary, it is safe to say that the overall quality of and length of life for these pets is reduced, owing to these side effects of obesity. F I G U R E 4 . 1 8 While automatic feeders may Visually, dogs that are be convenient, they can predispose dogs to overweight will sport a obesity. waist that is barely discernable. In addition, their ribs can barely be felt when their chest is touched, and their abdomens may be noticeably distended. Finally, fat dogs will carry prominent fat deposits along the hips and at the base of their tails. The average adult cat weighs anywhere from 8 to 15 pounds. Not only will fat cats tip the scale to the heavy side, but they will usually appear round and their bellies may sag under the weight of their excess adipose tissue.
Causes of Obesity The causes of obesity in dogs and cats are numerous, but the first and foremost of them is plain, old dietary indiscretion [aka (also known as) too many table scraps]! Realize that when you feed 10-pound Ginger that tiny piece of hot dog, that is equivalent to you eating two to three
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hot dogs! In other words, it won’t take many of these tiny pieces to make Ginger fat. Feeding one innocent cheese curl to a dog or cat might be the same as eating half a bag ourselves, depending on the pet’s size! Table scraps do nothing but promote obesity and create an annoying beggar out of your pet. Feeding table scraps is no doubt the biggest culprit causing obesity in pets, but simply feeding the wrong type of food can do the same. Most pet food manufacturers produce products geared for different stages of a pet’s life. For instance, on the market today you have growth formulas, high-protein rations, “light” formulas, adult-maintenance formulas, geriatric formulas, and so on. The choices are so numerous that pet owners often become confused as to which type their particular pet should be on, and this could lead to improper feeding practices and obesity. The only pets that need to be on a growth formula of food are puppies and kittens under 1 year of age, pregnant and lactating pets, and, in certain instances, dogs and cats that are recovering from or fighting off illness. Because energy requirements drop considerably as a pet matures, feeding high-energy, high-calorie growth formulas to an otherwise healthy adult dog or cat can inadvertently cause obesity. The same holds true for geriatric pets over 8 years of age. These pets should be fed “less active” or senior-type diets containing higher fiber and fewer calories instead of the regular adult-maintenance rations. Failure to adjust dietary requirements to specific individual needs is another predisposing cause of obesity. As far as how much you should be feeding your pet, the first place to start is to consult a breed book or a veterinarian and find out what the ideal weight should be for your pet. Then look at the recommendations printed on the label of the pet food you are using. Even these printed guidelines should be considered averages, since the needs of each individual will vary, depending on individual metabolic rates, exercise levels, and eating habits. For adult and senior dogs, the best approach is to feed the recommended amount of food over a 3-week period, monitoring your dog’s weight each week. If weight gain is noted, cut back on the rations fed. If the opposite is true, then increase the rations slightly. For puppies and kittens, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations as to how much to feed. When your pet is still an adolescent,
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instilling solid feeding habits is more important than worrying about how much to feed.
Weight Reduction If your pet is overweight, simply cutting back on the amount you feed will not do the trick. In fact, doing so could conceivably lead to a mild state of malnutrition and cause your dog or cat to be constantly hungry (and begging!). Many dogs that are not receiving adequate nutrition will try to eat anything, which in itself can lead to a serious case of gastroenteritis. Cats that are malnourished can develop serious liver disease as a result. Instead of cutting back on its ration, switch your pet’s feed to one that is specially formulated for weight loss. Studies have shown that a high-protein, low-fat diet can promote weight loss while maintaining lean body mass. Such diets are readily available from a veterinary clinic. They might cost a bit more than what you are accustomed to paying for pet food, but the switch is only temporary and the benefits to your pet are immense. Also, most of these “diet” foods have a high fiber content, which allows for calorie reduction while still giving your pet that feeling of fullness after eating. A veterinarian can assist you in determining how much and how often to feed your pet. For dogs, spreading out the total daily food amount over two to three feedings during the day might help satisfy your pet even more. Be patient with the results. You might not realize it, but even 1 pound of weight loss is significant for both a dog or a cat. It is vital that during the weight reduction period that you remain consistent with the feedings and avoid giving any snacks (a few kibbles of the special diet now and then can make for an excellent snack substitute). For dogs, nylon or compressed rawhide bones are okay to give to chew on during this time, but keep in mind that hungry dogs may gulp down these items without properly chewing them, leaving them susceptible to gastritis and intestinal blockage. Make sure that your pet gets enough exercise. As with people, lack of exercise does its part to promote obesity. House dogs kept indoors most of the time are the ones at greatest risk. Many are lucky if they just get acknowledged when their owner steps in the door from a hard
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day’s work. When they do get to go outside, it is often just to go to the bathroom, then back inside. Regardless of whether your dog is kept indoors or out, make it a habit to devote a specific amount of time each day to social activity and exercise with your dog. It is important not only for its peace of mind but also to keep its body fit and keep the fat away. A brisk, 15-minute aerobic walk or jog twice a day is all that should be needed. When exercising your dog, just be sure not to overdo it. Stride for stride, most dogs need to work twice as hard to keep up with the pace you set. Avoid exercising during those times of the day when the heat and humidity are at their worst. And remember to keep plenty of water available for your dog. Drinking water prevents these dogs from becoming dehydrated, and provides a cooling mechanism for their body. Cats kept indoors rarely get enough exercise, unless, of course, they are leash-trained and can be taken for daily walks. However, simply playing with your cat more when you get home from work can do its part to help burn those calories! You should also rule out medical reasons for obesity. Finally, just to be fair, the pet owner can’t be saddled with the blame for his or her pet’s obesity in all cases. There can be medical reasons behind a pet’s weight challenge. For instance, hypothyroidism is a common condition in dogs, and it can lead to weight gain and lethargy by lowering the body’s metabolic rate. One unique finding in hypothyroid dogs is that these dogs will gain weight despite a poor appetite. The signs associated with this condition can be quite subtle and might lead you to believe that improper diet is the cause of your dog’s weight problem. For this reason, thyroid function tests should be administered to all dogs that have a weight problem. Most veterinarians now offer a simple, inexpensive inhouse thyroid screen that can detect problems if they exist. In these cases, supplementing thyroid hormone by mouth not only makes the pet feel better but also helps conquer the weight disorder. In summary, follow these guidelines to protect your pet from the health risks caused by obesity: 1. Be strict when it comes to your pet’s diet. Keep it regular and feed a formulation suited for your pet’s stage of life and physical activ-
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ity level. Avoid feeding table scraps! If your pet needs to lose weight, don’t just cut back on its ration. Switching to a specially formulated high-fiber diet is a must. Slow, steady weight loss is the goal. Eliminate all treats and special snacks during the weight reduction period, and never feed free-choice. 2. If you haven’t already done so, implement an exercise program for your dog or a regular playtime for your cat. Not only will you be helping control your pet’s weight, you’ll also be preventing potential behavioral problems. Don’t overdo the exercise, and keep plenty of water available at all times. 3. Always have a medical checkup performed on your pet before embarking on any weight-loss program. A veterinarian can tell you if your pet is actually overweight and can give you specific guidelines for weight reduction in your pet if needed.
Caring for the Canine Ear Because of the unique anatomy of the canine ear, routine preventive ear care, involving cleaning, drying, and, when applicable, plucking is recommended.
Cleaning Many different types of ear cleansers and drying agents are available from pet stores, pet supply houses, and veterinary offices (Fig. 4.19). Liquid cleansers are preferred over powders; powders can become quickly saturated with moisture, trapping them within the ear canal. Most liquid ear cleansers contain wax solvents as well as built-in astringents (drying agents) that help promote a healthy environment within the ear. Cotton balls, cotton tip applicators, and tissues are also helpful accessories to have available. These are used to clean around the outer portions of the ear canal and surrounding structures. In no instances should a cotton-tipped applicator be placed down into an ear canal; you’ll only serve to pack wax and debris down deep next to the eardrum or actually rupture the eardrum itself. Be sure to consult a veterinarian before putting any medications or solutions into your pet’s ears. This is especially important if those ears are inflamed or infected, since many solutions designed for use in
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healthy ears can cause serious problems if used in ears with unhealthy or ruptured eardrums.
Restraint during Cleaning or Treatment The most important part of any preventive or treatment program for the ears is proper restraint of the When cleaning your dog’s ear, FIGURE 4.19 patient. This is essential for pull the pinna straight out (not up) to allow the effective application of medication to get down deep into the ear canal. medications, as well for the safety of both owner and dog. If necessary, don’t hesitate to use a muzzle. Unfortunately, many dogs object to having their ears medicated, especially if the ears are already sore from inflammation. If at all possible, obtain assistance from a friend or family member for that extra set of hands. Smaller dogs can be placed atop tables or washing machines for a better working angle. This unfamiliar ground usually serves to pacify a fidgety protester. Use good judgment: If it looks like all-out war is likely, abandon your efforts and seek the assistance of a veterinarian. Having to make repeated weekly trips back and forth from the veterinary office might be inconvenient, but try to keep the benefits afforded to your pooch’s ears in mind. If your dog is suffering from an ear infection, consider leaving it at the hospital or clinic for a few days to make sure that those ears are treated properly.
Recommended Procedure The procedure for cleaning and/or applying medication to the ears is easy. To begin, the pinna (earflap) should be pulled gently toward the handler in an outward, not upward, direction. By extending it in this fashion, the external ear canal will be straightened, allowing easy access of the cleanser to the deep portions of the canal. On the other hand, if the pinna is pulled upward, the ear canal will become flattened against the skull, rendering cleansing efforts ineffective.
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Now carefully place the cleanser or medication into the external ear opening and squeeze a liberal amount of solution into the ear. The next step is to feel for the cartilage supporting the ear canal and, keeping the pinna extended outward, gently massage the ear canal for a good 15 to 20 seconds. Once this time is up, the dog should be allowed to shake its head before proceeding to the next ear. After both ears have been treated, cotton balls, cotton applicators, or tissue can be used to wipe up excess cleanser, medication, or waxy debris stuck to the inside folds of the pinnae and the very outer portions of the ear canals. Again, never stick anything down into the ear canal itself. Serious injury could result! Most commercial ear cleaners contain or come with drying agents, which makes manual drying of the ear canals unnecessary. HAIR IN THE EAR CANAL
In some breeds, hair can occlude the ear canal, predisposing to inflammation and infection. Poodles, terriers, and schnauzers are notorious for this. In cases where excessive hair is visualized in the ear canal, the veterinarian should perform an ear pluck (Fig. 4.20). Why not do it yourself? Well, there are three good reasons not to. First, ear plucking is a painful procedure, especially if inflammation is already a factor. As such, it requires effective restraint. In some instances, sedation might even be required to do the job. Second, if done properly, an ear pluck should be focused not just on the hair visibly occluding the outside of the ear canal, but on the hair down deep within the canal as well. Special instruments are needed for this, the kind used by a veterinarian. Finally, if done improperly, ear plucking can lead to infection within an ear canal. Since the act of forcibly removing DR. P’S VET TIP hairs from their follicles A 50:50 mixture of isocauses inflammation, the propyl alcohol and white entire length of the plucked vinegar can be used as a canal needs to be medicated routine ear cleanser for healthy ears or afterward to reduce this those with mild yeast infections. inflammation and prevent a (Caution: Alcohol will sting an secondary infection from inflamed ear.) occurring.
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The bottom line is this: Ear plucks done improperly and without proper medication afterward can actually do more harm than good! Routine weekly application of an ear solution can help keep ear canals healthy. In addition, using a drying agent in the ears after a pet goes swimming or receives a bath is also a good idea. Daily or everyother-day (alternate-day) preventive treatment is not needed unless prescribed by a veterinarian; in fact, such frequent application could conceivably alter the normal flora and environment within the ear enough to allow disease-causing bacteria to proliferate. Routine ear plucks should be performed on an as-needed basis. In most cases, this means every 4 to 6 weeks. If the ears are being treated for an infection, follow the dosage and frequency guidelines prescribed by your veterinarian for the particular medications you are using. See Chapter 15 for more information regarding diseases and disorders that can affect the canine ear.
Maintaining a Healthy Skin and Coat Routine grooming is essential for maintaining healthy hair and skin in dogs and cats. Be sure to allot some time each day to this task (Fig. 4.21).
Brushing
FIGURE 4.20 Excess hair occluding the external ear canal should be plucked.
Whether your dog or cat has short or long hair, brushing the coat thoroughly on a daily basis will aid in its appearance as well as promote healthy skin. It does this by
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Removing telogen (dead) hairs from the coat, making way for new ones to grow in.
■
Preventing tangles and mats
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■ Stimulating sebaceous
gland activity, which keeps the skin moisturized and the haircoat shiny. Brushing also helps to spread these oils across the entire skin and coat. ■
Contrary to popular belief, FIGURE 4.21 dogs do not need to be bathed on a regular basis.
Removing scale (excess keratin), which could lead to itching.
■ Increasing owner awareness of the presence of external para-
sites or other skin-related problems. Long-haired and/or thick-coated breeds require more diligent brushing than do shorter-coated dogs. Minor shedding is normal yearround in all breeds. However, because the shedding cycle in dogs and cats is stimulated by changes in day length, most will occur during the spring and fall months, when the days become longer and shorter, respectively. Be sure to choose the right type of brush for your pet. In general, the wider the bristles or pins are placed on the brush, the longer the coat it is designed to be used on. Brush medium- and long-haired dogs, as well as those breeds with thick coats, using a wire-pin brush. For dogs with short DID YOU KNOW haircoats, brushing with a bristle-type brush will work Dogs can’t sweat like people do; thus best (Fig. 4.22). Long-coated they pant to dissipate heat via the mouth and tongue. cats should be brushed using a wire-pin brush or
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comb. For shorthaired cats, a bristle-type brush or rubber Dogs should be bathed at least once a curry comb will do the trick. week F I C T I O N . Dogs with healthy In addition to the wireskin and haircoats rarely require roupin brush, the slicker brush tine bathing. Daily brushing and appliis another very popular type cation of a coat conditioner will of device used on dogs. accomplish the same results! In fact, Most of these consist of a indiscriminate bathing can dry out the square head containing lots skin and predispose an otherwise of tiny wire projections, and healthy skin to disease. they can be used on almost any type of haircoat for removing shed hair and tangles. Purchase of a comb is optional, unless you own a cat or one of the silky-fur breeds with a coat that might be too delicate for many standard brushes. Combs can also come in quite handy for removing tangles and mats when used in conjunction with scissors. Like brushes, the teeth of combs are set at different widths apart for different Be sure to use the right type FIGURE 4.22 of brush for your pet’s particular haircoat. types of coats: widely spaced for thicker coats and closely spaced for longer, silkier hair. Just keep in mind that using the wrong type of brush or comb can be painful to your pet and actually damage the haircoat. For this reason, choose grooming tools with care. Always use firm, short strokes when brushing, never forcing the brush through the coat. For dogs with short- to medium-length hair and all cats, brush with the grain of the hair. To help in the removal of shed hair, use towels or disposable gloves to buff the coat after
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brushing. For those canines with thick undercoats, the initial direction of brushing should be against the grain of the hair. Once the undercoat has been groomed, you can brush the outer coat with the grain. If you encounter a mat, don’t try to forcefully remove it with the brush. Instead, try to work it free with your fingers, using one hand to free the tangle and the other to stabilize the tuft of hair to keep it from pulling the skin. If the mat or tangle still can’t be freed, insert a comb between the mat and the skin surface; then take a pair of blunt-nosed scissors and snip as much of the mat off as you can between the comb and the free end of the hair. Don’t worry about cosmetic appearances. It will grow back! Mats that are left in place can promote infection involving the skin beneath. And always remember: If you brush your pet as often as you should, you won’t have a problem with matting!
Bathing Dogs and cats should be bathed when one or more of the following situations develop: ■ Accumulation of excessive dirt, grease, or other foreign sub-
stances on the skin and coat ■ Buildup of waxy sebum (seborrhea), which often leads to body
odor ■ Accumulation of skin scale (dandruff) ■ Skin infections
Dogs and cats with normal, healthy skin and haircoats really do not require routine bathing. As far as cats are concerned, DR. P’S VET TIP that’s welcome news, since To remove skunk odor, mix most cats abhor bathing! one quart of 3% hydrogen If a bath is indicated peroxide with 1Ⲑ4 cup of for your dog or cat, a hypobaking soda and 1 teaspoon of mild allergenic shampoo is recliquid dish soap. Apply liberally to the ommended. For medical coat, and then rinse thoroughly. conditions involving skin
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infections and seborrhea, use only those shampoos prescribed by a veterinarian. Using the wrong type of shampoo on such skin disorders will yield poor results and might even exacerbate them. Before you put your pet into the tub, brush its coat out thoroughly and remove any mats and tangles. In addition, always apply some type of protection to both eyes to prevent accidental soap burns. Mineral oil has been used for this purpose; however, a sterile ophthalmic ointment is preferred. Such ointment is readily available from a veterinary clinic or pet store, and provides greater eye protection than does plain mineral oil. After you’ve treated the eyes, stick some cotton balls into the outer portion of each ear canal to keep bath water out. If the nails need trimming or the anal sacs need emptying (dogs), do this before the bath as well. If you are bathing your cat, place a window screen or rubber mat in the tub to give your feline something to hold onto while getting scrubbed. Once these preparatory measures have been taken, you can proceed with the shampoo and rinse. If you are using a medicated shampoo, allow it to remain in contact with the skin for a good 10 minutes prior to rinsing. After rinsing, a towel, chamois cloth, or brush and blow dryer (dogs only—on the low heat setting only) can be used for drying.
Nail Trimming As part of a routine grooming program, you should perform a nail trim on your dog every 4 to 6 weeks and for cats, every 2 to 3 weeks (Fig. 4.23). The procedure itself is easy, assuming you have the right equipment and that your pet agrees to cooperate. If your pet refuses to hold still for its manicure, let a veterinary assistant perform the deed. It will be less stressful on both you and your pet. There are many types and styles of nail trimmers on the market today. The preferred choice is the guillotine-type nail trimmers with replaceable blades. These are available at pet stores everywhere. The procedure itself is simple on clear nails. Observe the nail to be clipped and identify the endpoint of the blood supply, or the quick. Then, staying just in front of the quick, snip off the end portion of the nail.
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On dark nails that don’t have readily identifiable quicks, start snipping back the end of the nail in small portions at a time. Stop when the nail is short enough as to not contact the ground when weight is placed on the paw (Fig. 4.24). Invariably, the time might come when you accidentally “quick” your pet’s nail, causing it to bleed. If this occurs, there is no cause 4.23 When trimming nails, trim back just for panic. Using a clean FIGURE far enough so that when your dog’s paw is flat cloth or gauze pad, apply against a surface, the nails are just off the surface. direct pressure to the bleeding nail for 5 minutes to stop the bleeding. Alternatively, you can apply clotting powder or clotting sticks, both of “Quick” of which can be purchased at the nail pet stores, to the end of the affected nail to quickly stop the bleeding. If none of these Third Phalanx are handy, ordinary flour can be used as an effective substitute. Cut here Occasionally, a dog’s nails might have grown so long that the quick has Keeping a cat’s nails trimmed FIGURE 4.24 extended far down the nail, short is one alternative to declawing. making it virtually impossible to clip without making it bleed. In these instances, you might wish to employ the help of a veterinarian, who can sedate your pet and perform a short nail trim.
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Expressing Anal Sacs The anal sacs are structures located on either side of the anal opening in dogs and cats. Filled with a foul-smelling fluid that is used for intraspecies identification, these sacs normally empty with each bowel movement. Contrary to popular belief, these do not have to be manually emptied on a routine basis whenever a dog is bathed. In fact, by manually expressing healthy anal sacs, you could inadvertently cause inflammation and predispose to secondary impaction. Anal sacs require attention only if a dog is showing signs of impaction or anal sac irritation (Fig. 4.25). These signs usually appear in the form of scooting the rear end across the floor or excessive licking of that region. Fortunately, cats rarely have trouble with their anal sacs. Mildly impacted anal sacs can be expressed by applying gentle, inward and upward pressure at the four o’clock and eight o’clock positions surrounding the anal opening, using your thumb and forefinger, respectively. If this fails to empty the sacs, or if F A C T OR F I C T I O N the sacs are especially tenA dog that scoots its rear end on the der, stop what you are floor has worms F I C T I O N . A dog that doing and call the veteriscoots its rear end on your floor has narian. In these instances distended anal sacs and is trying to the procedure is better perempty them on your floor or carpet! formed at the vet’s office. (Note: If you happen to get anal sac secretion on your skin or clothes, you might lose your friends quickly unless you take appropriate action to neutralize the odor. Isopropyl alcohol can be used to get rid of the smell. Better yet, many commercial odor neutralizers that are available at your favorite pet stores can do the job even Anal sacs should be expressed FIGURE 4.25 more effectively.) only if they are impacted.
CHAPTER
5
Elective Surgeries in Dogs and Cats S
ome of the more common elective surgeries (surgeries not prompted by disease or illness) performed in dogs and cats include neutering (ovariohysterectomy, castration), ear crops (dogs), tail dock/dewclaw removal (dogs), and declawing (cats). While there is sound medical and sociological reasoning behind neutering dogs and cats, many other elective surgical procedures commonly requested by pet owners offer no benefits whatsoever. As a result, ear cropping, tail docking, and even feline declawing have come under increasing public scrutiny as to their necessity and humaneness. Whether you decide to have an elective procedure performed on your pet is up to you (and current laws governing such practices), but before making a final decision, you are encouraged to communicate with your veterinarian, who will be able to answer your questions regarding benefits, risks, and controversy surrounding any particular elective surgery (Fig. 5.1).
The Facts Concerning Anesthesia Anesthesia is a word that tends to inspire uneasiness and fear in many people. In actuality, though, anesthesia is an indispensable tool in veterinary medicine (and human medicine, as well!). It is required for
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the painless performance of many important procedures, including surgery, dentistry, diagnostics, and restraint. There are basically two types of anesthetics that are used alone or in combination in elective and nonelective surgeries. Injectable anesthetics are used quite often for procedures lasting for only a short period of F I G U R E 5 . 1 With animal shelters overflowing with so many unwanted pets, neutering your pet time. For longer procedures, inhalation (gas) anesthesia is highly recommended. is used for maintenance. Newer, safer anesthetic agents are now available for use in pets. However, regardless of the type of anesthetic agent used, it is important to remember that none are totally risk-free. It is difficult to predict how each pet will react while under anesthesia, yet with strict monitoring and adherence to basic anesthetic principles, many problems can be avoided. Ideally, animals should be as healthy as possible prior to undergoing anesthesia. For this reason, laboratory work is often required to confirm the health status of your pet. Of course, certain situations will require the use of anesthesia in sick animals. It is easy to see how the risks of anesthesia tend to be greater in these patients. Older animals also tend to be at greater risk. Yet, again, with the proper laboratory workup and a good physical exam performed by a veterinarian prior to anesthesia, as well as close monitoring during the procedure, the risks associated with the anesthesia can be greatly minimized. Owners, too, have a responsibility to help ensure the safety of a pet undergoing anesthesia. Be sure to inform the veterinarian of all medications that your pet is currently taking, as well as any changes you have noted regarding your pet’s behavior (more frequent urination, exercise intolerance, etc.). Don’t hesitate to review your pet’s past medical history with the veterinarian and to ask questions concerning the anesthesia to be used.
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If the pet is to stay at home the night before the surgery, it is imperative that all food be taken away at least 12 to 18 hours prior to the scheduled procedure. Water, on the other hand, may usually be offered up to 4 hours before the scheduled anesthesia. Be sure to check with the veterinarian regarding this subject. If for some reason your pet does eat food or drink water when it’s not supposed to, it is important that you relate this information to your veterinarian.
Neutering Ovariohysterectomy (OHE) involves the surgical removal of the ovaries and uterus from an intact female dog or cat. The common term assigned to this procedure is “spaying.” OHE is a preferred method of birth control in pets, since it is easy to do and ensures 100 percent sterility. Most veterinarians require a dog or cat to be at least 6 months of age before undergoing such an operation, although some DID YOU KNOW will perform the procedure The feral cat population in the United as early as 12 weeks of age. States is estimated at over 50 million!
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Aside from birth control, there are many other reasons for performing an OHE on your female dog or cat. For instance, it can be lifesaving as treatment for or prevention of pyometra (accumulation of pus within the uterus) as an animal matures. In addition, it has been used as a behavioral modification tool to calm excited or overly aggressive pets (Fig. 5.2). Finally, and F A C T OR F I C T I O N very importantly, research Having a female dog spayed (OHE) when has actually shown that in she is young will help prevent mammary dogs, spaying at an early age cancer as she gets older. F A C T . In fact, can reduce the risks of that the most protection is afforded if the individual developing mamprocedure is performed prior to a dog’s mary cancer in the future. first heat cycle. With each consecutive The entire surgery takes cycle a dog undergoes, this protective anywhere from 10 to 20 minnature of an OHE declines until, by 21⁄2 years of age, this potential benefit is utes, depending on the skill lost altogether. of the surgeon and certain patient factors. For instance,
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the procedure normally takes longer if the pet is in heat at the time of surgery, owing to an increased blood supply to the reproductive tract, requiring additional care and ligatures. The same holds true for pregnant pets. Dogs and cats that are excessively overweight are more difficult to spay because increased fatty tissue within F I G U R E 5 . 2 Castrating tomcats can sometimes the abdomen obstructs the help curb aggressive tendencies. surgeon’s view. Finally, in the case of an OHE because of pyometra, the operation can take two to three times longer than it normally would, as the surgeon must use delicate care not to rupture the pus-filled uterus. For whatever reasons, veterinarians often are asked if they could just remove the ovaries and leave the uterus intact (or vice versa). While the intentions of such a request may be good, it lacks medical reasoning. Pets whose ovaries are removed without the uterus are still at risk of developing pyometra in the future. Similarly, pets whose ovaries are left intact, but have had their uterus removed, can still develop a pyometra in the stump of the uterus left behind. In addition, such an operation does little to reduce the risk of mammary cancer in that particular individual. The technical term for neutering a male canine is castration, which involves the surgical removal of the testicles. This procedure is commonly employed for birth control, and for reducing territoriality and aggressiveness in male dogs and cats. Castration is also employed in dogs as treatment for medical disorders that are directly influenced by testosterone, namely prostate disease, perineal hernias, and certain tumors. Retained testicles (testicles that have failed to descend into the scrotum) are also candidates for removal, since they have high incidence of becoming cancerous. In general, castrations can be safely performed on a dog or cat as early as 6 months of age.
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Rather than having to have surgery performed at all, pets may soon be sterilized with a series of special injections. Chemicals that render the reproductive organs nonfunctional have been developed, and offer a safer, more affordable way to neuter a pet. Ask the veterinarian for details.
Common Concerns about Neutering One common misconception about spaying a dog or cat is the belief that a female needs to go through at least one heat cycle or have at least one litter before the deed is performed. Many feel that this is necessary for the proper emotional development of their pet, but in fact, it isn’t. On the contrary, spaying before the first heat cycle will have no adverse effect on a pet’s’s mental well-being, and, as mentioned earlier, can offer significant medical benefits, especially in dogs. Another concern that many pet owners harbor is that neutering will cause their pets to gain weight. However, poor feeding practices, lack of exercise, or certain medical conditions (such as hypothyroidism) cause obesity, not the act of neutering. By addressing these issues, you can keep your neutered pet slim, trim, and healthy!
Tail Docking and Dewclaw Removal (Dogs) Established conformational standards dictate that select breeds of dogs have artificially shortened tails and be free of dewclaws. Tail docking originated in centuries past as a way to prevent hunting and sporting dogs from traumatizing their tails while working in thick woods or underbrush (Fig. 5.3). Even as certain sporting dogs have evolved into lap dogs, tail docking still remains in vogue as a cosmetic standard for many of these breeds. Medical necessities might also warrant amputation of the tail. Trauma, infections, and tumors involving the tail may best be resolved by partial or complete amputation. Dewclaws are actually functionless remnants of the first digit on each paw. Many puppies are born without any dewclaws at all; others are born with them on the front paws, but not the back, or vice versa. Conformational standards are not the only reason for removing these structures when a puppy is young. Dewclaws have a nasty habit of getting snagged and torn on carpet, furniture, and underbrush. Secondary
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FIGURE 5.3
Tails are docked on many hunting breeds to prevent injury in the brush.
infections can develop if this trauma is repeated. For this reason, removal of dewclaws is a good idea if this is the case. Tail docking and dewclaw removal are best performed within the first week of life (Fig. 5.4). The operations simply involve snipping off the dewclaws and the desired length of tail (per breed standards) with surgical scissors. One to two sutures are usually placed in the tail; the site of the dewclaw removal is often cauterized and left open. If tail docking/dewclaw removal is not performed within 7 days after birth, anesthesia will be required for the surgery. As a result, the procedures must be postponed until the pet is 5 to 6 months of age.
Cosmetic Ear Trimming (Dogs) Cosmetic ear trimming, or ear cropping, is the surgical alteration of the normal anatomy of the ear pinnae in dogs to conform to accepted breed standards. Many people feel that ear trimming puts a dog through needless pain and suffering. Veterinarians and veterinary organizations are
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even joining the bandwagon and are advising against cosmetic ear trims, since they serve no useful purpose. In certain countries, cropped ears are no longer considered an acceptable breed standard, and cosmetic ear trimming has been officially banned (Fig. 5.5). The choice of whether to have it done or not is strictly up to you. If your pet’s breed standard calls for it and you plan on com- F I G U R E 5 . 4 If desired, tails should be docked peting on the show circuit, and dewclaws removed prior to 1 week of age. then you’ll need to have your dog’s ears cropped. In these cases, the surgery is best performed between 12 and 14 weeks of age. If, on the other hand, your dog is strictly for companionship, then such a procedure is not necessary.
Declawing (Cats) The decision as to whether to have a cat declawed is certainly a controversial one, yet it is one that needs to be made based on individual circumstances. For indoor cats that refuse to stick to their scratching post, declawing is certainly a better
FIGURE 5.5
Cosmetic ear trimming has sparked much controversy among the dog-owning population.
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F I G U R E 5 . 6 Declawing your cat may become necessary if it refuses to limit its scratching activities to its scratching post.
solution than drug therapy or worse yet, eviction from the home. Also, for predominately outdoor cats that spend their time indoors destroying the furniture with their claws, declawing might be the answer (Fig. 5.6). It is important to remember, however, that cats without their front claws cannot climb as well (although they can still climb!) as they could with them, and they might have trouble avoiding hostile dogs or fellow cats that they might encounter. Declawing can be performed as early as 12 weeks of age. In fact, younger cats seem to recover much faster from the surgery than do older cats, primarily due to the immature development of the blood supply and other supporting structures to the nails at a younger age. Before the decision is made to declaw your cat, try to train it to a scratching post first. If done correctly, you might find that it just may solve the problem. Also, consider keeping your cat’s nails clipped short to minimize the damage caused by its scratching activity. Since the nails of cats are somewhat fragile, be sure that the nail clippers you use are sharp. Guillotine-type clippers available from pet stores work best.
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When clipping the nail F A C T OR F I C T I O N back, be sure to stop short of Cats that are declawed in front can’t the pink “quick,” which condefend themselves. F I C T I O N . A cat tains the blood supply to the in true defense mode will utilize its nail. However, if an accident back claws with utmost efficiency! does happen, the bleeding What renders a feline truly defenseless can be controlled with direct is to remove these rear claws, which pressure to the site through will also take away its ability to climb. the use of clotting powder, As a result, remove only the front again available at a local pet claws, never the back ones. store. Finally, special nail covers are also available to minimize the damage associated with scratching activity. However, if none of the aforementioned options work, then removal of the front claws might be the only choice left to preserve that happy owner-pet relationship.
Postsurgical Care for Dogs and Cats Following any type of surgery, you should receive specific instructions from your veterinarian as to the type of postsurgical care your pet requires. It is important to follow these instructions closely to ensure an uneventful recovery. Postsurgical instructions include ■ Do not give your pet food or water for 30 minutes after arriving
at home. To do so can cause nausea and vomiting. ■ Restrict your pet’s activity for 8 to 10 days or until the sutures
are removed. Protect your pet from stress, such as extreme exertion, excitement, temperature fluctuations, and drafts. Traveling should be kept to a minimum. ■ Check incision sites twice daily for any swelling and/or dis-
charge. Keep them clean and dry at all times. Avoid bathing your pet until all sutures have been removed. ■ Unless otherwise instructed, return to your veterinarian in 8 to
10 days for suture removal. ■ If medications are dispensed, follow all label directions closely. ■ Don’t hesitate to call the veterinarian if any problems arise or if
you have any questions regarding your pet’s recovery.
CHAPTER
6
Infectious Diseases
I
nfectious diseases are those diseases directly communicable between pets. They are certainly among the most common canine illnesses seen by veterinarians. Infectious organisms responsible for diseases in dogs and cats include a multitude of viruses, bacteria and bacterialike organisms, and fungi. Multiple organ systems (see Figs. 6.1 and 6.2) can be affected when an infectious disease is involved, resulting in a potpourri of clinical signs.
INFECTIOUS DISEASES IN DOGS Viruses certainly account for the majority of infectious disease seen in dogs. Treatment for these agents is usually supportive in nature, owing to a lack of specific antiviral medications. Fortunately, most can be prevented through proper vaccination. As far as bacterial and fungal infections are concerned, most can be treated effectively with antibiotics and antifungal medications if recognized soon enough.
Canine Distemper This infamous viral disease of dogs used to be one of the leading causes of death in unvaccinated puppies throughout the world.
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Kidney Stomach Liver
Ureter Colon
Trachea
Lungs Bladder
Heart
Small intestines Spleen
FIGURE 6.1
The internal organs of the dog.
Kidney
Stomach
Ureter
Colon
Bladder
Trachea Lungs Liver Spleen Heart
FIGURE 6.2
The internal cat.
Small intestine
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Although the incidence of this disease has decreased dramatically over the years because of vaccination programs, the distemper virus is still out there and can strike without warning. The virus itself is related to the human measles virus and can produce a number of different disease patterns in canines. Infected dogs shed the disease in all body excretions, and transmission usually occurs via airborne means. As a result, like canine cough, it is highly contagious and can travel some distance on an air current. Distemper is considered a multifaceted disease; that is, it can affect a number of different body systems, including the respiratory, gastrointestinal, and nervous systems. Early signs of the disease include fever, loss of appetite, and a mild conjunctivitis (eye inflammation). These signs can come and go, lasting only a few days. As a result, pet owners often miss or ignore this early phase of the disease. As the disease progresses, signs become more serious and extensive. They can include coughing, breathing difficulties, eye and nose discharges, vomiting and diarrhea, blindness, paralysis, and seizures. The seizures associated with this disease often have their own unique presentation, called “chewing gum fits.” As the name implies, pets stricken as such will look as if they are chewing gum during the attack. In fact, many owners, when they see this, immediately think of rabies. The final outcome of an infection with the canine distemper depends on the extent of exposure, the strain of the virus involved, and the ability of the dog’s immune system to mount a defense against the virus (with the help of supportive treatment). Depending on these factors, the outcome of such an infection can present itself in one of four ways: 1. Death 2. Recovery with no lasting side effects 3. Recovery, with non-life-threatening side effects 4. Recovery, with life-threatening sequelae Outcomes 1 and 2 are fairly self-explanatory. Non-life-threatening side effects that can result from distemper can include such conditions as
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hard pad and enamel hypoplasia. The former is characterized by a prominent thickening and proliferation of the pads of the feet; hence the name. Enamel hypoplasia is a term used to describe the lack of normal enamel covering the tooth surfaces. This occurs in puppies stricken with distemper at an early age, before their permanent teeth have erupted. What happens is the virus attacks and kills off those cells responsible for manufacturing the tooth enamel; hence the new teeth grow in lacking this vital component. Needless to say, teeth lacking enamel are not very strong and tend to erode quickly, becoming brownish in color. These innocuous side effects might be all that linger, or they might be coupled with more serious sequelae. One such side effect that could become life-threatening to some recovered cases is a degeneration of the nervous system, which can occur slowly or very rapidly. Dogs so affected sometimes show a progressive deterioration of both their motor skills and mental abilities. Rhythmic muscle twitching can become so bad that it totally disables the unfortunate pet. Seizures, paralysis, and incoordination can also become factors as progression proceeds. A diagnosis of canine distemper is based on a history of exposure, the absence of proper vaccination, and classical clinical signs associated with the disease (eye and nasal discharges, chewing gum fits, enamel hypoplasia, hard pad, etc.). In addition, direct microscopic evidence of the virus within blood cells, or within scrapings of the conjunctiva of the eye or tonsils, can help the veterinarian in the diagnosis. There is no specific treatment for the canine distemper virus; as a result, supportive care with antibiotics, fluids, and anticonvulsants is indicated. Unfortunately, the overall prognosis is poor, with over 50 percent of dogs that exhibit severe signs dying in spite of good supportive care. Of those dogs that do recover, about 50 percent of them can be expected to develop some form of nervous system complication down the line. With recent advancements in veterinary dentistry, enamel restoration with artificial compounds has become available for those cases suffering from hypoplasia, and it is a viable way to prevent further tooth deterioration.
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Immunization at an early age with a canine distemper vaccine is the cornerstone for preventing this disease. Any puppy or dog suspected of having the disease should be immediately isolated from its pack members. Disinfection of the contaminated premises with bleach (1 part bleach to 30 parts water) will also help reduce spread.
Parvovirus First identified in 1977, this virus, which is related to the feline panleukopenia virus, usually strikes young, unvaccinated puppies under the age of 6 weeks, although all ages can be susceptible to infection. It is highly contagious, spreading from host to host via oral contamination with infected feces. Parvovirus affects the intestines, the immune system, and/or the heart of infected canines and can quickly be fatal if neglected. The parvovirus is attracted to those areas of the body in which normal cells are actively dividing and multiplying. In dogs, the lining of the intestines, lymph nodes, and bone marrow are targeted areas. In addition, in puppies less than 6 weeks of age, the virus can infect heart cells, causing irreparable damage to this organ. The intestinal form of the disease is by far the most common. Signs seen include loss of appetite, persistent vomiting, and profuse, odiferous diarrhea, often streaked with blood (Fig. 6.3). In severe cases, the actual lining of the intestines may be shed in the stool. As these signs develop, dehydration and secondary bacterial infection can rapidly occur, especially in the young pup. If not treated immediately, both conditions can lead to organ failure and death. The cardiac, or heart, form of the disease is usually characterized by sudden death for no apparent reason, and often with no outward signs to indicate involveF I G U R E 6 . 3 Bloody diarrhea accompanies acute ment of the virus. In a few parvovirus infections.
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cases, severe breathing problems may arise as the heart is attacked, which may then be followed up by vomiting and diarrhea as the disease progresses into its intestinal stage. Diagnosis of parvovirus infection is based on clinical signs, vaccination history, and laboratory tests. A declining white blood cell count, which reflects the virus’s invasion into the bone marrow, is one of the most consistent signs seen with parvovirus. In fact, this parameter is used as a prognostic indicator by veterinary clinicians for determining the severity of a particular infection. In general, if this white cell count continues to fall even after 3 days from the onset of clinical signs, the prognosis for recovery is poor. On the other hand, if the count rebounds, and starts its way back up by day 3, recovery can usually be expected, provided, of course, supportive treatment is continued. Because there are no specific antiviral agents available for this disease, treatment for parvovirus infection involves supportive care and the prevention of secondary complications. Success of treatment depends on many factors, including how quickly it is instituted after the onset of signs, how aggressively treatment is applied, and which strain of the virus is involved. Intravenous fluids are a must in treating existing dehydration and preventing further dehydration from occurring. Supplementation with potassium, a substance vital to the normal motility of the intestinal tract, is also used to replace the amount that was lost from vomiting and diarrhea. Since an infected puppy or dog cannot keep any food down, a dextrose or sugar supplement and vitamins may be given intravenously as well. Antibiotics and drugs designed to control vomiting are also part of the support plan. Good nursing care to maintain an adequate body temperature and reduce stress is also a must. Finally, injections with special preparations of antibodies (immunoglobulin injections) that actively fight the parvovirus are showing great promise in the active treatment of parvovirus infections. Whole-blood transfusions with blood from vaccinated dogs can help achieve a similar effect. Starting immunizations at a young age is the most effective way to prevent serious complications associated with parvovirus exposure and infection. To help reduce the chances of puppies coming down with the heart form of this disease, bitches should be current on vaccinations
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prior to breeding in order to ensure that optimum amounts of protective maternal antibodies will be passed on to the offspring. Minimizing exposure is also an important control measure for parvovirus. This virus survives relatively well in the environment outside its host, so its contagiousness can last for weeks. All puppies and dogs, even those vaccinated, should be kept well away from dogs infected with the virus. Owners should also realize that some of these infected dogs can even shed the virus in their stools for weeks after clinical recovery. Puppies should be restricted in their contact with other dogs and with stressful situations until their vaccination program is complete. Contaminated environments can be cleaned with a 1:30 dilution of bleach to help inactivate the virus.
Coronavirus Coronavirus infection is a highly contagious disease of puppies that can cause minor gastrointestinal illness. The virus is transmitted via contact with shed fecal material containing the virus. This can present a problem when large groups of puppies are housed together, since viral shedding from one infected animal can continue for several weeks even after clinical signs have abated. Coronavirus causes mild, self-limiting diarrhea and occasional vomiting in affected puppies. However, if a puppy contracts parvovirus, the resulting immune suppression can allow the coronavirus to replicate unchecked and exacerbate the clinical signs seen as a result of the parvovirus. Diagnosis is afforded by a thorough history, clinical signs seen, and laboratory tests. There is no specific treatment for coronavirus itself. If coupled with parvovirus, treatment approaches will be the same as those for the latter disease. The need for vaccination against coronavirus is questionable. As a rule, puppies that are properly vaccinated against parvovirus rarely suffer from coronavirus enteritis.
Infectious Canine Hepatitis (ICH) This disease is caused by the canine adenovirus 1, an organism found worldwide and known for its stability outside its host environment (it
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can survive for up to 2 weeks!). The virus is shed in all body excretions, and can be found in the urine of a recovered dog for up to 6 months. Direct contact with such secretions by an unsuspecting dog, usually under 1 year of age and unvaccinated, is the method of disease transmission. As the name implies, once the organism enters the body, it can set up a severe inflammation of the liver, or hepatitis. ICH does not, however, stop there. Other organ systems, including the eyes and kidneys, can be affected as well. Loss of appetite, depression, and fever, sometimes reaching 106 degrees Fahrenheit, are initial symptoms seen. Enlargement of the tonsils and other lymph nodes occurs as the virus multiplies in these regions. As the liver is attacked, abdominal pain and jaundice become evident. In addition, inflammation of the blood vessels within the body can lead to clotting problems and internal bleeding. One characteristic lesion of infectious canine hepatitis that can develop later as the disease progresses is called “blue eye.” In this condition, one or both eyes can take on a blue appearance due to fluid buildup and inflammation within the eye(s). Diagnosis of infectious canine hepatitis is based on the age of the animal involved, vaccination history, and laboratory data. Such data will reveal elevated liver enzyme levels, a lowered white blood cell count, and increased clotting time. Biopsy samples might reveal the actual presence of the virus within the tissue itself. Treatment aims are preventing secondary complications, such as bacterial infections, and giving intravenous fluids to combat dehydration. In severe cases, blood transfusions could be required. Even when vigorous therapy is instituted, prognosis for recovery remains very guarded in the majority of cases. Vaccination is the best way to prevent this disease.
Canine Contagious Respiratory Disease (CCRD) CCRD (also known as “canine cough” and “kennel cough”) is a highly contagious disease transmitted by air and wind currents contaminated with cough and sneeze droplets from infected canines. It occurs with
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high frequency in boarding kennels, dog shows, and other areas where dogs may be congregated. There is no one organism on which to solely place the blame for this disease. In fact, over six different causative agents have been isolated, including several types of adenoviruses and reoviruses, the canine herpes virus, the parainfluenza virus, and a bacterium called Bordetella bronchiseptica. All of these agents can cause disease by themselves or in combination with the others. The Bordetella organism is related to the bacterium that causes whooping cough in humans, and can cause permanent damage to the airways of affected dogs if not detected and treated soon enough. The classic clinical sign associated with an uncomplicated case of CCRD includes a relentless dry, hacking cough, usually nonproductive (Fig. 6.4). Occasionally, a clear discharge from the nose might appear. Gagging or retching might be noted at the end of a coughing spell and is often mistaken for vomiting. Affected dogs rarely run a fever or seem to “feel bad,” nor is it common for them to lose their appetite—that is, if the case doesn’t become complicated with secondary infections. Complicated cases of CCRD are characterized by a greenish eye and nasal discharge, and by obvious breathing difficulties as pneumonia rears its ugly head. In these instances, affected animals do run fevers, do lose their appetites, and do appear sick. Diagnosis of CCRD is based on the presence of the classic clinical signs, plus a recent history of exposure to other dogs. Radiographs might be required to evaluate the extent of the lung and airway involvement in complicated cases. Bacterial cultures are also indicated in these latter instances. Treatment of the disease consists of antibiotic therapy, and, in the case of nonproductive coughs, cough suppressants. Owners need to realize that coughing can persist for up to 3 weeks, even after treatment. If complications exist, F I G U R E 6 . 4 A dry, hacking cough is charactermore specific therapy will be istic of “kennel cough.”
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needed to battle the pneumonia and fever and to prevent dehydration. Vaporizers are often used to liquefy secretions in the airway, allowing for greater ease of passage. A similar effect can be obtained by placing the affected pet in a steam-filled bathroom for 10 to 15 minutes. Just be sure that the temperature within the room doesn’t get too hot; drinking water should be provided to the dog to help prevent overheating. An intranasal vaccine can be administered to provide some protection against CCRD. If a dog has not been vaccinated within the past 6 months, it should be administered no later than 1 week prior to a scheduled boarding or event.
Herpes Virus This virus poses no real threat to adult dogs. In fact, it is thought to be a natural inhabitant of the respiratory tract and sometimes the reproductive tracts of these adults. Its main importance rests in the disease it causes in puppies under 2 weeks of age. As it turns out, this herpes virus does not multiply well in the higher body temperatures normally found in adult dogs. However, neonatal puppies, whose ability to maintain this body temperature is poor, are prime targets for the virus. They can become infected with it directly inside the mother’s uterus, or they can become exposed after birth. Unfortunately, once clinical signs appear in these young puppies, there is not much that can be done to save them. The time from exposure to the appearance of clinical signs is about 7 to 10 days. Afflicted puppies will cry constantly, become depressed, and stop nursing. Death usually occurs within 24 hours after the signs begin. Because of its age specificity, herpes virus infection should be suspected anytime puppies under 2 weeks of age become ill and cry constantly. Further diagnostics performed on tissue samples after death can help confirm the diagnosis and shift focus on saving the remaining members of the litter. As mentioned before, once signs appear in an individual, death is inevitable. However, there are steps owners can take to try and spare the other puppies in the litter from the same fate. Be sure to provide a source of heat (remember—never allow a heating pad to come in direct contact with the body surface, and always keep heating pads on their low
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setting!) to the puppies to maintain their body temperatures above 100 degrees Fahrenheit. This will help slow the multiplication of the virus. If indicated, supportive fluids and forcefeeding can be helpful as well. There is no vaccine available to help combat this disease.
Leptospirosis Canine leptospirosis is a bacterial disease of dogs characterized by jaundice, vomiting, and kidney failure. At least four different groups of leptospirosis organisms, all belonging to the genus Leptospira, have been implicated in this disease in dogs. Remarkably, most infections are subclinical; that is, few show clinical signs of disease. When clinical signs do arise, however, the results can be serious, even life-threatening. Leptospirosis becomes more of a problem in kennels where animals are kept together under poor sanitary conditions. Animals become infected with the organisms through contact with infected urine. Leptospirosis is found primarily in young animals between the ages of 1 and 4 years. In addition, males seem to be more commonly affected than females. Signs associated with the disease reflect the damage done by the organisms to the body’s blood, liver, and kidneys. Fever, depression, vomiting, and diarrhea might be early signs that become noticeable. Anemia might set in as red blood cells are destroyed by the invading organisms, and distinct bruising on the skin surface becomes evident as the body’s blood clotting mechanisms are impaired. In severe cases, liver failure and/or kidney failure appear, leading to rapid dehydration and to a urine with an orange-brown color, a feature characteristic of this disease. Left untreated, this disease will often result in death. To diagnose this disease, veterinarians rely on a thorough history (including potential exposure to livestock), clinical signs, and special laboratory tests. The white blood cell count is usually elevated, in contrast to those seen with viral diseases. Blood and urine cultures might be used to confirm a diagnosis. Antibody levels measured at 2-week intervals have been used as well for this purpose. Treatment of leptospirosis consists of high levels of specific antibiotics, combined with fluid therapy to combat dehydration and medications to stimulate kidney function. Unfortunately, unless treated
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early enough, the kidneys could suffer irreparable damage, leading to unavoidable failure. Because of the serious nature of this disease, dog owners need to focus their attention on prevention. Since cross-protection against this disease is not afforded by most leptospirosis vaccines, prevention is aimed at limiting access to potentially infected livestock and the water sources they may frequent.
Rabies If there was ever a disease to strike fear into the hearts and minds of pet owners everywhere, this is it! Rabies is a deadly viral disease that can infect any warm-blooded mammal, including domesticated animals such as dogs, cats, horses, and cattle. As a disease to be avoided, rabies is one of the earliest to ever be recorded, dating back to almost 2000 B.C. It is found worldwide, except in a few countries, such as Great Britain and Japan, which have strict laws designed to keep the countries rabies-free. The incidence of rabies within the United States varies with each state, depending on the normal fauna found in that state and on existing vaccination laws. It is estimated that over 86 percent of all rabies cases occur in wildlife species of animals, with about 14 percent spilling over into the domestic pet and livestock population. It is certainly these latter groups that pose the greatest threat to public health. Species that are commonly culprits of spreading wildlife rabies include skunks, raccoons, coyotes, foxes, and bats. Opossums are noted for their resistance to this virus, and they rarely become infected. Rodents, such as rats and mice, are not significant carriers of the disease, either, since few survive encounters with rabid animals in the first DID YOU KNOW place. Contrary to popular belief, a bite wound Skunk rabies is most or direct contamination of an open prevalent in the midwestern wound isn’t the only way a person can and southwestern states and be exposed to the rabies virus. Aerosol California; raccoon rabies, transmission has been known to occur in the mid-Atlantic and as well (e.g., breathing air in caves southeastern United States; heavily populated by bats). fox rabies, in the eastern
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states; and bat rabies—well, it’s found in all states. Most cases seem to occur during the spring and fall months of the year. The rabies virus is usually transmitted via the infected saliva of affected animals through a bite wound or contamination therewith of an open wound or mucous membranes. The disease is uniformly fatal once contracted. Dogs are a leading host for this killer, and serve as a major vector for transmission of the disease to humans. Studies have shown that rabies occurs in higher incidence in younger dogs; the median age is about 1 year. In addition, due to hormonally related roaming and territorial instincts, male dogs are at greater risk of exposure than are females. Traditionally, when speaking of rabies, most people visualize a snarling, frothing dog snapping at anything in sight. While this is true in some instances, pet owners should understand that this represents only one of three stages that are part of the overall disease process. Depending on each individual case, viciousness might take on a prominent role, or might not occur at all. These three stages of rabies include the prodromal stage, the furious stage, and the dumb or paralytic stage. The first stage,
