Sewing Teacher Resources, Everything Reproducible For Your Classroom

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Sewing Teachers Resources This books contains puzzles, diagrams, stitching sheets, life skills, curriculum guides and activites to help reinforce, build confidence, and make your time with your student more productive. You may copy any of the pages in this book for use in your own classroom.

Published and Distributed By: Bunkhouse Books JoAnn Gagnon 607 Lower Hogeye Road Waistburg, WA 99361 1-800-337-8845 www.bunkhousesewing.com 2

Table of Contents Reproducible Puzzle Pages Pattern Markings Scramble 4 Sewing Supplies Crossword 5 Identify the Parts of the Sewing Machine 6 Sewing Terms Word Search 7 Sewing Knowledge Fill in the Blank 8 Seam Finish Match-up 9 Textile Terminology 10 Answer Keys 11 Practice Stitching Sheets Straight Lines and Corners Stitching Maze Curves Swan Sheet

13 15 16 17

Hands on Activities Make a Simple Loom Seam Finish Notebook Tie Dying Scrapbooking Your Projects

20 21 22 24

Instructional Handouts The Sewing Machine The Serger Serger Basics Sewing Supplies Seams and Seam Finishes Hand Sewing About Fabric Patterns Measurement/Sizing Charts Pinning

25 27 28 30 32 34 35 37 38 40

Life Skills Sewing on a Button Mending a Rip or Tear Ironing a Shirt

41 42 43

Curriculum Guides Stitches & Pins Buckles & Bobbins

44 45 47

Free Project Sheets

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Sewing Tips

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The Bunkhouse

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PATTERN MARKINGS SCRAMBLE A.

A. ENINLIRAG WORAR __________________________

B. B. CALPE NO LFOD __________________________ C.

C. NRETEC NROFT __________________________

D. D. CESTONH __________________________

E. F.

E. TOSD __________________________ F. NTITUCG ELNI __________________________ G. TRNEAPT MEAN __________________________

G.

Vest I.

H.

Front

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H. NTTERAP CEEPI __________________________ I. AMES CEWLALOAN __________________________

Sewing Supplies Crossword Puzzle

ACROSS: DOWN: 4. Stretches and is used in waistbands. 1. Tool used to help poke out corners. 6. Marking tool for dark colored fabrics. 2. 60 inch plastic coated tape. 9. A short metal ruler, 6 inches long. 3. Material you make garments from. 12. Magnetic pin holder. 5. Used for snipping, clipping, and trimming. 14. Tool used for pressing. 7. Fine, sharp, glass headed tools to help 15. Marking tool for light colored fabrics. hold fabric, patterns, etc. in place. 8. Tool used for cutting fabric. 10. Used to remove unwanted stitches. 11. Used to lay garments and fabrics on to press. 13. Comes on a spool, is used for stitching. 16. Tool used for hand sewing. 5

Do you know the parts of your sewing machine???

Fill in the blanks as you identify the different parts of the sewing machine: 1.______________________________2.________________________________ 3.______________________________4.________________________________ 5.______________________________6.________________________________ 7._____________________________ 8.________________________________ 9._____________________________ 10. _______________________________ 11. ____________________________ 12. _______________________________ 13. ____________________________ 6

Sewing Terms from: “Stitches and Pins” and “Buckles and Bobbins”

WORD SEARCH: Find the following words, up and down, back and forth, or diagonally in the above chart. Draw an oval line around the words when you find them. The word “hem” has been found to show you how to mark your puzzle.

WORD LIST: backstitch, bias, bias tape, binding, borders, casing, clipping, cotton, crosswise, curves, cutting line, elastic, fabric, facing, fiber, fold, grainline, hem, interfacing, lengthwise, notches, organize, pattern, preshrink, pressing, projects, quilters grid, quilting, seam allowance, seam finish, selvage, sewing, slip stitch, snap, thread, topstitching, understitching, woven, zigzag. 7

Sewing Knowledge Fill in the Blank 1. The woven edge of the fabric is called the ____________. 2. The ___________ _____ holds the fabric in place during the sewing process. 3. A standard ________ inch width is used for most seam allowances. 4. The diagonal direction of the fabric is called the _____________. 5. An important sewing supply, the __________ ________ is a short, metal ruler, generally 6 inches long. 6. Yarns that run across the fabric from one selvage to the other is referred to as the _______________________ ________. 7. Cotton, wool, silk, and flax are all examples of _______________ fibers. 8. A __________________ _________ is a temporary stitch that holds two piece of fabric together. 9. A tool to help remove unwanted stitches is called a __________ _________. 10. At the beginning and end of a seam, you _________________ to secure the threads. 11. The long part of the fabric running parallel to the selvage is called the____________________ _. 12. On your pattern, a long line with arrows on both ends denotes the ________________. 13. When stitching, you will ___________ with the needle down to turn the fabric. 14. If your machine is not stitching properly, the first thing to do is ________________ ____ _____________. 15. For straight stitching, always use a __________ stitch length. 16. You machine needle should be in the _______________ position when beginning anding a seam. 17. Always _____________ your fabric before cutting it out, and to avoid shrinkage after it is made. 18. You ____________ an inside curve, and ____________ an outside curve. 19. __________________ is used in stress areas of garments to maintain shape end enhance the stability of the fabric. 20. Trimming seam allowances to different widths is called _________________ the seam. 8

Seams and Seam Finishes - Match-up A. B. C.

D.

E.

F.

G.

H.

I.

J.

K.

_____ 1. Overcast Seam Finish

_____ 7. French Seam

_____ 2. Welt Seam

_____ 8. Plain Seam Finish

_____ 3. Pinked Seam Finish

_____ 9. Edge Stitched

_____ 4. Flat Felled Seam

_____ 10. Serger Seam

_____5. Double Stitched Seam

_____ 11. Bound Seam Finish

_____ 6. Clean Finish Seam Finish 9

For intermediate to advanced students Across: 7. Looks similar to wool, man made, pills 9. Fabric with 2 interlocking layers knitted together 10. Fabrics already shrunk prior to purchase 11. Warm animal fiber 13. High stretch, four ways 15. Yarns that have been interlooped to make fabric 16. Fabric weave - one over, one under 17. Fabric weave - heavier yarns woven two over, two under 18. Fabric weave - diagonal effect from crosswise yarns going over several yarns 20. Fabric knit - like hand knitting, ribs on outside, ridges on back Down: 1. Separating and cleaning raw fibers 2. Combination of 2 or more fibers to make fabric 3. Fabric retains its color 4. Fibers that come from animals and plants 5. Thick textures fabric made with 3 sets of yarns 6. Manmade fiber, easy care, wrinkle resistant, commonly used 8. Common natural plant fiber 10. Little balls of fiber on fabric caused from wear 12. Method of applying color 13. Fabric weave - yarns under one, over 4 or more creating luster 14. Loss of color during washing 19. Fibers made from chemicals 21. 10 Ability to recover original size after stress

Answer Key Parts of the sewing machine: 1. Needle 2. Presser Foot 3. Presser Foot Lifter 4. Feed dog 5. Hand Wheel 6. Spool Pin 7. Tension Control 8. Thread take-up lever 9. Stitch length regulator 10. Stitch width regulator 11. Throat Plate 12. Bobbin 13. Foot Control

Sewing Supplies Crossword Puzzle

Stitching Maze:

Sewing Terms Word Search:

Pattern Markings Scramble: A. Grainline Arrow B. Place on Fold C. Center Front D. Notches E. Dots F. Cutting Line G. Pattern Name H. Pattern Piece I. Seam Allowance 11

Answer Key Seam Finish Match: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

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D I B H K

6. E 7. G 8. A 9. C 10. J 11. F

Sewing Knowledge: 1. Selvage 2. Presser foot 3. 5/8 4. Bias

11. Lengthwise grain 12. Straight of grain 13. Pivot 14. Rethread the machine 5. Seam gauge 15. 2.5 6. Crosswise Grain 16. Highest 7. Natural 17. Preshrink 8. Basting stitch 18. Clip, notch 9. Seam ripper 19. Interfacing 10. Backstitch 20. Grading

You may duplicate this sheet. Use it to practice your straight and zig-zag stitching.

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Straight stitching and curves stitching sheet

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Stitching Maze - Can you find Raggedy Ann and Andy?

Draw through the maze with a pencil beginning from the outside and reaching the center. Now take this puzzle to the sewing machine and stitch, with a straight stitch, your way through the maze. 15

Curve stitching sheet

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Curve stitching sheet

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Straight, curve, and corners stitching sheet

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Turn this practice stitching sheet into a project. Apply fusible interfacing to the back of a 10 X 13 inch piece of fabric. Pin your paper pattern to the front of the fabric. Decrease your stitch length to 2.0, and stitch. Tear away the paper, add a sequin or dot of slick paint for the eye, and frame!

“Swans”

A challenging stitching project with lots of curves and corners.

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Make a Loom Understanding how fabric is woven Materials needed: ..Styrofoam meat tray ..Yarn - colors ..Paper scissors

..Permanent ink marker ..Bobby pin

Directions: 1. Mark slits 1/4 inch apart (use 1/2 inch if you have young children) on the long sides of your styrofoam tray. 2. With paper scissors, snip in about 1/2 inch on each mark. 3. Knot one end of your yarn and hook it into the first slot on one side of the tray. 4. String the yarn across the tray into the first slot, string it back to the 2nd slot, across and back continuously until you have yarns covering your tray. 5. Make a slit on one side of one end. Using a different color of yarn, tie a knot in the end and hook it into the slot. 6. Tie a Bobby pin to the other end of your yarn. 7. Weave this yarn over and under, over and under, until you fill in one entire side. This is a plain weave. 8. On the backside, make a basket weave, going over two, under two, with two strands of yarn. 9. Now thread up a second loom, following the above procedure, and weave a satin weave on one side, by going over 4 threads and under one. Be sure to start each the next row two threads in. 10. Your final weave is to make a twill weave, going over two or more lengthwise yarns, creating a diagonal looking effect. Plain Weave

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Twill Weave

Basket Weave

Satin Weave

Make a Seam Finish Notebook A Very Handy Reference Materials and Supplies: ..1/4 yard white fabric ..1 spool dark colored thread ..pinking shears

..Colored paper for background ..Sheet protectors ..Spray starch

Instructions: 1. Press and starch your fabric. 2. With pinking shears, cut your fabric into 22 rectangles, 3 1/2” wide by 4 1/2” long. 3. Using 2 pieces of fabric for each, stitch out all of the following seams and seam finishes: Plain Seam; Pinked seam finish; Edge stitched seam finish; Overcast seam finish; Clean finish seam finish; Bound seam finish; French seam; Flat felled seam; Welt seam; Serged seam; Double stitched seam. 4. Press each flat. 5. On a sheet of colored paper, write the name of the seam on the left hand side, and glue the stitched sample to the right side. On the bottom half, write out when you would consider using this particular finish or seam, in one color of ink, and in another color of ink, write out how the seam was made. 6. Repeat this for all 11 seams and finishes. 7. In the front of the book write out a page on the purposes of using seam finishes, and a page on considerations in selecting a seam finish. 8. Slip each page into a sheet protector, and put into a notebook.

Sample pages from one young students notebook.

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Tie Dyeing A T-shirt This is an activity that is more controlled one-on-one, but a whole lot more fun in a group! I would suggest you work with no more than 4 children at a time unless you have other adlut help!Tie dyeing is a fun activity, but can be a bit messy. Make sure everyone wears clothing protection and rubber gloves. Materials and Supplies: • 100% Cotton T-shirt • Rubber bands (lots) • Fabric dye (several colors) • Salt • Garbage bags, newspaper • Hanger

• • • • •

Apron or protective clothing Large pots Latex or rubber gloves Long handled Spoons Craft scissors

Tie Dyeing how-to: • Natural fibers (cotton, wool, silk) dye best. For this project we will be using a 100% cotton T-shirt. • Pre-wash the shirt to remove finishes ro stains. White and light colors will give you the truest dye colors. • At a table, have each student lay the T shirt out flat in front of them. • Using rubber bands, tie your T-shirt according to one of the variations on the next page. Keep in mind that the area where the rubber band is placed will remain the same color as the original shirt. Outside edges and unbanded areas will absorb the dye. • Lay plastic garbage bags over your work area, then cover with several layers of newspaper. • Following the package directions, prepare dye in in pots on the stove. Once the dye is ready, you may place them in the center of your work surface, or leave them on the stove to work from. • Using salt is optional. Salt helps to set the dye as well as brightening and deepening colors. • Drop you entire T-shirt into the dye bath. Periodically swirl it around so it will dye evenly. • Follow the dye directions for times. When your time is up, remove it from the hat bath, onto a plate and take it to the sink. • Rinse with cool water until the water is clear. Gently wring out excess moisture. • With scissors, carefully cut away the rubber bands. • Hang your shirt up to dry. • Once dry, rinse the shirt, let dry before wearing. 22

Circles - Pinch and pull up both layers of the T-shirt. Wrap rubber bands around the bottom of the bumps. These can be made as deep (larger circles) or as short (smaller circles) as you like. You can also create a donut shape by pushing the tip back into the rubber band. Multicolors are possible by dipping areas at a time. Just be sure to fully rinse after each color so you don’t ruin the color of the dye in the next bath. Swirl - Lay the T-shirt out flat. Pinch the center of the shirt and twist, and twist, and twist until the entire shirt is caught up into a spiral. Wrap the rubber bands around the outside of your swirl to hold in place. It should lay fairly rounded, but flat.

Stripes - Gather your shirt together, and place rubber bands where you want your stripe to be. Dye the entire shirt in the lightest stripe color. Rinse your shirt. Now dip the ends into the darker color bath, being careful to keep the light stripe out of the dye. Hold it in this position for about 5 minutes.

Nesting Circles - Pinch and pull up both layers of the T-shirt in the middle. Wrap a rubber band about 1 - 1 1/2” down. Gently run your hand down the rest of the fold to gather them together. Evenly space rubber bands all the way down the gathers. Marbled - Take your T-shirt and bunch it up into a ball. Wrap rubber bands around it. Put into dye bath. The yellow diagram shows one dipping. To get more color, dip two or three times, bunching it each time so as to cover more of the light area. A wooden drying rack is ideal to dry your finished shirts or fabric on. Be sure to place a towel on the floor to catch the drips, and any possble dye left in the fabric. Can you think of other applications for tie dyeing? How about pillowcases, curtains, quilt fabric, other articles of clothing? 23

Scrapbooking Your Projects Keeping a record of the projects your students make serves not only as an encouragement to them, but it is fun to do, and fun to look back on and evaluate. Materials and supplies: • One page for each project • A picture of the project • Fabric samples • Misc. supplies - glue, paper scissor’s pinking shears, stickers, etc. Scrapbooking how to: • Start first by placing, and gluing your picture on your page - anywhere! You may leave it in the rectangular shape, or cut it out. This goes first since it is the largest item. • Cut out a fabric sample from your left-over pieces with pinking shears. Place and glue it onto your page. • At the top of the page write the name of the project, with the date you made it written on the second line • Near the fabric sample write out the fiber content, how much you purchased, and the cost. • Near the picture write out the pattern name and number, or what book it came from, and what size you made it up in. • Write any other comments you would like - was it fun? did you have difficulty with anything? would you do anything different? how will you launder it? did you keep it or give it as a gift? will you make it again? • Add stickers, lines, color to jazz it up!

Sample using my granddaughter’s first project

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The Sewing Machine

1. Needle 2. Presser Foot 3. Presser Foot Lifter 4. Feed Dog 5. Hand Wheel 6. Spool Pin 7. Tension Control 8. Thread Take-up Lever 9. Stitch Length Regulator 10. Stitch Width Regulator 11. Throat Plate 12. Bobbin 13. Foot Control

Your machine is your most valuable tool. It is important that you understand your machine, and how to thread and run it properly. All machines are different, but they operate in the same basic way. Be sure to read your owners manual to learn more about your particular machine. Here is your opportunity to learn the function of the different buttons and knobs.

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1. Needle - it has an eye (hole) near the point for threading. It takes the thread through the fabric and back up again. 2. Presser Foot - holds the fabric in place during the sewing process. 3. Presser Foot Lifter - is located in back of the machine. It raises and lowers the presser foot; tension is released when lifted. 4. Feed Dog - holds fabric tight against the presser foot, and feeds the fabric through the machine when stitching. 5. Hand Wheel - makes a turn with each stitch. Moving this wheel by hand will raise and lower your needle. 6. Spool Pin - holds the spool of thread. 7.

Tension Control - controls the tightness of the upper thread. It can be either a dial or a disc depending on your machine. When tension is correct, your stitches will be smooth and even. Once your tension is correct, you will very seldom need to change it.

8. Thread Take-up - moves up and down with the needle, and takes up the slack of thread between stitches. Always stop with this lever in the highest position. 9. Stitch Length Regulator - adjusts to make your stitches longer or shorter. 10. Stitch Width Regulator - adjusts the width of your zig-zag stitch. 11. Throat Plate - has guidelines to help you keep your stitching straight. 12. Bobbin - is under the machine, and holds the lower thread. 13. Foot Control - is like a gas pedal. You control how fast or slow your machine stitches by pressing on this.

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The Serger

Needle Thread Guides

Looper Thread Guides

Thread Tension Controls Thread Tension Controls

Thread Cones

1

1 2 3 4 5

1 2 3 4 5

1 2 3 4 5

2 3 4 5

Thread Guides

Side Cover Presser Foot

Cutter Blade

Front Cover

Inside Side Cover: Needle Bar Stitch Length Control

Inside Front Cover: Upper looper Lower Looper Moving Cover 27

Serger Basics 1

1 2 3 4 5

1 2 3 4 5

1 2 3 4 5

2 3 4 5

The serger, which is sometimes called an overlock machine, is a machine that stitches, trims and finishes a seam all in one step. A serger can simplify your sewing steps and save you time. Depending on the type of serger and the seam being sewn, you will need 2 to 5 spools of thread. A lot of thread is used in making overlock stitches and it is wise to purchase the larger cones of thread. These threads are lighter in weight than standard threads, and are not recommended for sewing machines. You need to refer to your instruction manual to find out how to thread your serger, for instructions in using it, and as a guide for tension adjustments for different types of fabrics. Do not unthread your machine once it is threaded. Tie your old and new threads together at the top and pull through when changing thread colors.

Sewing Seams With Your Serger • When using the serger to sew knit or woven fabrics, cut the garment out with the 5/8” seam allowance allowed on a standard pattern. The knife blades located under the bed of the machine will trim away excess seam allowances, leaving about a 1/4” overlocked seam (A). Use This Seam For: • Most knit garments. • Loose fitting garments. • When seam allowances don’t need to be pressed open. • To retain a full seam allowance, use a serger in conjunction with your sewing machine by sewing a regular straight-stitched seam that has been edge finished with a serger (B). The serger does not trim off any fabric. Use This Seam Finish For: • Heavier, more bulky fabrics. • Wider seam allowances for zippers and pockets. • When you may need to alter seams. • When seams must be flat and pressed open. 28

Pinning Serged Seams: • Place pins the same direction as the seam and remove them as you stitch, far enough away from the presser foot so there is no chance of the knife blade or the presser foot hitting a pin (A). Hitting a pin will throw the machine timing off, causing improper stitches, and require a technician to fix it.

1

1 2 3 4 5

1 2 3 4 5

1 2 3 4 5

2 3 4 5

Securing the Ends of an Overlock Seam: • Since you cannot backstitch on a serger, you must secure your ends in another manner. • Sew past the length of the fabric to form a “chain” of thread. • Secure the threads one of three ways: --Put a dab of Fray Check on the end of the seam to seal the threads. Cut off the thread tail after it dries (B). --Thread this chain into a tapestry needle and run it back through the stitches about 1”. Trim off excess threads (C). --Pull on 2 threads to form a knot. Taking Out a Serged Seam: • Taking apart a serged seam is not an easy process. There are a few sergers that if you pull the right threads, the stitching will pull out easily. Check your instruction manual to see if yours will. Otherwise, follow the following procedure (D): --Cut through the loops on one side of the seam, or carefully trim away the outer ridge that has been formed along the seam’s outside edge. Be extra careful not to cut the fabric! --Pick out the cut thread ends. --When re-stitching, remember you are working with a 1/4” seam allowance. Maintaining Your Serger: • Lint buildup is the most common factor in machine malfunction. Brush it out after the completion of each project (E). • Regularly oil your machine (following directions in your owner’s manual) on a monthly basis (F).

OIL 29

Sewing Supplies Good work requires the right tools and the knowledge to use them. A complete sewing supplies kit is available at our website.

Measuring Tools: Tape Measure - is a plastic coated tape, 60 inches long, with metal tips and numbers on both sides. It should be pliable and able to bend easily, but not stretch. Seam Gauge - is a short, metal ruler, generally 6 inches long. It is helpful in measuring hems and small lengths. It has a plastic, movable piece to keep distances even when using it in different applications.

Sewing Tools: Pins - should be fine, sharp and rustproof so they won’t damage your fabric. You will find that pins with ball heads are the easiest to use. Glass head pins are preferable because they won’t melt when the iron touches them. Always throw away bent pins. A variety of sizes of safety pins should be included as part of your sewing supplies, too. Grabbit - is a magnetic pin holder. It easily picks up stray pins and keeps them handy. Pincushions keep your pins together, and are a good alternative. Seam Ripper - removes unwanted stitches. It has a point that will go under the thread. As you push it under, it’s sharp edge cuts the thread. You need to be extra careful not to accidently cut the fabric yarns (threads). Needles - are for hand sewing. They come in many sizes. Just make sure they are small enough to slip through the fabric easily, yet large enough for you to have good hand control. Large Knitting Needle (size 8, 5mm. or larger) - use this for poking out stitched corners so that they will lay bulk free and square. 30

Cutting Tools: Small Scissors - are handy for snipping threads, cutting corners, and trimming seams. Keep these by your machine. Dressmaker Shears - can be identified because one handle is larger than the other. They have longer, stronger blades than scissors, and will be used primarily for cutting fabric. Do not ever use these to cut paper. The handles on shears are molded for either right or left handed users. Be sure to purchase the correct ones for you.

Marking Tools: Soap Slivers - our favorite! Snatch up that little bit of soap left in the shower, dry it out, and the narrow, sharp edge makes a wonderful marking tool. Use on darker fabrics. This always washes out nicely - and doesn’t cost anything either. Water Soluble Marking Pen - our choice when working with light colored fabrics. It writes in blue ink, which remains until you wash it away with water. Color Coded Dots - available at office supply stores, are great for marking - just stick ‘em on! Markings you will be transferring include: notches, hemlines, darts and pleats, center front and center back, dots, squares, and button and pocket placements. Markings are usually made on the wrong side of the fabric. Mark both layers.

Pressing Tools: Iron - it’s ideal to have an iron that can be used either with steam or dry. You should use a steam iron on all the projects you will be making in this book. You should always turn off and unplug an iron when you are finished with your sewing for the day. Ironing Board - boards come in all sizes. Use whatever you have at home, as long as it is a comfortable height for pressing. Always press as you sew. This makes the next step easier and keeps your garment looking its best. Keep your iron and ironing board set up whenever you are at the machine. Press each seam, and because you are using cotton fabrics, use steam. 31

Seams and Seam Finishes Because woven fabrics ravel, a seam finish needs to be applied to the edge of the fabric to prevent fraying and extend the life of the garment. Seam finishes are not only functional, but can be decorative as well. I suggest you cut out several 4” by 6” pieces of muslin, and make samples of the different seams and seam finishes listed below. Organize these samples in a binder for future reference. Considerations in selecting the correct seam finish for your garment include: 1. The type of fabric - only woven fabrics need seam finishes. 2. The weight of the fabric. 3. How much the fabric frays. 4. The pattern design (what you are making). 5. Where the seam is located. 6. How much it will be worn. 7. How it will be laundered, and how often.

Seam Finishes for a Plain, 5/8” Seam Seam Finish:

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Where Used:

Plain Seam - no finish: Stitch your seam, press open.

Use on inside of lined garments, and on knits and non-wovens.

Pinked - stitch seam. With pinking shears, cut along the outer 1/8” edge of fabric.

Simplest finish. Use on fabrics that do not fray a lot.

Edge Stitched - straight stitch 1/8” from the edge of the fabric. Use short stitches - about 15 per inch.

Use on cotton and medium weight blends, on fabrics that do not fray much.

Overcast - Zigzag stitch the outer edge of the fabric. You may also use the serger for this. Then stitch seam.

Simple, can use on all seams. Will tend to pull on lightweight fabrics.

Seam Finish:

Where Used:

Clean Finish - Press under 1/8” towards the wrong side of the fabric. Machine stitch in place.

Use on straight seams. Looks very nice on the inside. Does not work with heavy fabrics.

Bound Seam Finish - Lay edge of fabric inside fold of bias tape, and either straight or zigzag stitch in place.

Use on heavier weight, unlined garments. Looks very nice on the inside.

Seams For Special Applications and Decoration French Seam - Stitch 1/4” seam allowance, wrong sides together. Press open, and crease back on seam. Right sides now together. Stitch 3/8” seam allowance.

Beautiful on light weight fabrics where narrow seam is desired. Use on straight seams, and very gentle curves. There are no raw edges.

Flat Felled Seam - Stitch 5/8” seam wrong sides together. Trim one side of seam to 1/4”. Press other seam edge under 1/4”. Press to side, and topstitch.

Decorative, 2 rows stitching show on outside. Use on pajamas and western wear, and only on straight seams. Entire seam is enclosed.

Welt Seam (mock flat-felled) Stitch 5/8” seam. Press to one side. Topstitch through seam and outer garment 1/2” from seamline.

Use for decorative purposes. Holds seam flat.

Serged - Trim seam to 3/8”. Serge the seam together.

Very durable. Can be used on almost any fabric. Quick and easy.

Double Stitched - Stitch a plain 5/8 seam. Stitch a second row, 1/8” inside the first row. Trim, zigzag edge.

Added durability in stress areas. Good for armhole and crotch seams. 33

Hand Sewing Threading a Needle: • Cut your thread at a slant. Holding the needle in one hand, bring the thread to and through the eye of the needle as shown:

• To tie the knot, wrap the end of the thread around the end of your index finger. Roll the crossed end into a loop as you push the loop off the end of your finger with your thumb. As you do this, pull the knot down to the end of the thread.

Basic Hand Stitches: • The RUNNING STITCH is used for basting, gathering and mending. • Take several stitches forward, weaving the needle in and out of the fabric. • Your end use is what decides the size of the stitches you take.

Running Stitch

Slip Stitch

• The SLIP STITCH is what you use when you don’t want the stitches to show. It’s how you will hand stitch openings closed, as well as hem. • Slip the needle through the edge of the fold of the top fabric. Then, with a small stitch, pick up a thread of the lower fabric. Stitches through the fold should be about 1/4 inch long, spaced evenly. Check to see that the thread doesn’t show or pull on the right side. Every 3 inches take an extra stitch in the folded fabric to reinforce and prevent a snag from pulling out your entire stitching. 34

About Your Fabric Knowing about fabrics before you walk into a fabric store will help you in selecting your project materials. You will need woven, cotton and cotton blend fabrics for all the projects in this book. Plain and print fabrics are great choices, but please don’t use stripes or plaids.

Woven Fabrics: In woven fabrics, the yarns go over and under one another, as shown in the diagram. Examples of woven fabrics are denim, corduroy, and broadcloth.

Fiber Content: •

Natural Fibers - include cottons, wools, rayon, silk, and flax. They derive from natural sources, such as cotton plants, sheep, etc. Natural fibers are more comfortable to wear because they are breathable.

•

Man-made Fibers - include nylon, acrylic and polyester. They are made from chemical solutions. These fibers are generally warm to wear and do not wrinkle.

•

Blends - are natural and man-made fibers blended together into a nice fabric for increased comfort and wearability, as well as wrinkle resistance and special effects.

Selvage - this is the narrow, tightly woven finished edge on the long side of your fabric. This edge will not fray.

•

Lengthwise Grain - this refers to the direction of the yarns that run the same way as your selvage. These yarns are usually the strongest, and are used as the up and down yarns in your garments.

Lengthwise grain

•

Selvage

Fabric Grainlines:

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•

•

Crosswise Grain - refers to the yarns that run across the fabric from one selvage to the other. These yarns will generally stretch more than your lengthwise ones, and will usually go around your body in garment construction. Bias - refers to a diagonal line between the lengthwise and crosswise grains. Bias has a lot of stretch. To find the true bias, measure an equal distance on the selvage and the crosswise grain. This diagonal is considered the true bias.

Crosswise grain

Bias

Preshrinking Fabrics: Most fabrics shrink the first time they are washed and dried, and since you want your garments to fit after the first time you wear them, you will need to preshrink your fabric as soon as you bring it home. Preshrinking will also eliminate some of the chemicals used in making the fabric, which can irritate the skin. How To Preshrink: The way you launder your sewing project after it is made is how you should preshrink the fabric before it is made. Run it through the washer and dryer at the heat settings you normally use.

Right and Wrong Sides of Your Fabric: Usually there is no problem in determining the right or wrong side of your fabric because the design has been printed onto it, and the dye is stronger on the right side. When in doubt, as on some plain fabrics, the right side is generally folded to the inside when it comes from the bolt. When you are preshrinking your fabric, mark the right side with a safety pin since the fold line will wash out. 36

Patterns Patterns help you take a piece of fabric and turn it into something wonderful. All patterns are consistent in their markings. You must know what these markings mean when you cut out your fabric. Patterns included with this book will be marked in standard form. Here are some things to look for on your pattern: 1. Name of Pattern

(Example: Vest)

2. Pattern piece identification

(Example: Front)

3. Cutting lines and seam allowances Vest Front

4. Symbols: •

Grainline - place on the straight grain line of your fabric, which is parallel to the selvage.

• Solid Line with Bent Arrows - place this

on the fold line of your fabric. •

Center front or center back of garment.

•

Notches - single notches denote the front, double notches, the back.

•

Dots

•

Cutting line - this is a bold line

You will be told in the directions how to lay your pattern pieces on your fabrics, and which symbols you need to transfer to your fabric. You will notice that some of the projects do not require pattern pieces. This is because you will be cutting a square or rectangle. Use your tape measure to make these project patterns.

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Measurements/Sizing Chart Sewing patterns sizes run different from purchased clothing sizes. Please match your pattern size to the charts below, and not the size you would normally purchase. You will need only 4 measurements to determine your pattern size. Find someone to help you take your body measurements. It is best if you measure in your undergarments. For some, your measurements will match the charts. For others, you will need to find the closest match. If you are sewing the pajamas or vest, match your size to the larger of the bust or hip measurement. For pajama bottoms or shorts, match your size to the larger of the waist or hip measurement.

Taking Measurements: •

Make sure the tape measure is held snugly - but not tight against your body, and parallel to the floor.

• The chart at the right shows you where to measure. For Girls and Misses: • Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest part (A). A.

• Waist - Measure around the body at the natural waistline (B). • Hip - Measure around the body at the fullest part (C).

D. B. C.

• Back Waist Length - Measure from the bone at the base of the neck to the natural waistline (D). For Men and Boys: •

Neckband - the distance around the base of the neck.

•

Chest - the distance around the fullest part of the chest.

• Waist - Measure around the body at the natural waist. • Hip - the distance around the fullest part of the hip • Shirt sleeve - with bent elbow, measure the distance from the back base of the neck

(at the bone), across the shoulder and around the bent elbow to the wrist. 38

Girls Sizes: Girls patterns are designed for the girls who have not yet begun to mature. Size Breast (bust) Waist Hip Back Waist Length Height without shoes

8 27 23 1/2 28 12 52

10 28 1/2 24 1/2 30 12 3/4 56

12 30 25 1/2 32 13 1/2 58 1/2

14 32 26 1/2 34 14 1/2 61

16 34 27 1/2 36 15 61 1/2

Misses Sizes: Misses patterns are designed for a well proportioned figure, about 5’5” to 5’6” tall without shoes. Size Chest Bust Waist Hip Back Waist Length

8 29 1/2 31 1/2 24 33 1/2 15 3/4

10 30 1/2 32 1/2 25 34 1/2 16

12 32 34 26 1/2 36 16 1/4

14 34 36 28 38 16 1/2

16 36 38 30 40 16 3/4

Boys Sizes: Boys’/Teen Boys’ for growing boys and young men who have not yet reached full adult stature. See chart below for approximate heights without shoes. Size

7

8

10

12

14

16

Chest

26

27

28

30

32

33 1/2

Waist

23

24

25

26

27

28

Hip (Seat)

27

28

29 1/2

31

32 1/2

34 1/2

Neckband

11 3/4

12

12 1/2

13

13 1/2

14

Record Your Measurements Here: (fill in those that apply) Chest______ Bust______ Waist______ Hip______ Back Waist Length______ Height______ Neckband______

Pattern Type:__________ Pattern Size:________ 39

Pinning • Pins are used to secure multiple layers of fabric or fabric and patterns

together. Dressmaker pins are preferable. Quilters pins are longer and easier to put into a piece of fabric, however, they will leave holes in your fabric. If you forget to pull the pin out and stitch over it, it will surely break a needle. We recommend that you purchase fine, sharp, dressmaker pins with glass heads. A magnetic “Grabbit” is much nicer and easier to use than a pincushion. Either way, you will need to keep your pins handy. • To pin, hold the ball end of the pin in one hand. Poke the sharp end of the pin

down through all the layers you wish to secure in position. Then, direct the pin back to the top of the fabric. There are specific places and directions you should place your pins. They are:

1.

Securing pattern pieces to fabric for cutting: • Pin one end of the straight of grain arrow.

• • • •

•

2.

After checking the distance from the selvage, pin the other end of the arrow. Pin each corner on your pattern diagonally. Pin straight edges every 6 - 8 inches, placing your pins on the stitching lines. Pin curves every 3 - 4 inches, placing the pin points to the outside edge. Pin along fold line, even though you are not going to cut it out. Extend ball end of your pins over the edge of the pattern so you don’t accidentally cut this edge. Never let a pin extend over the cutting line.

Securing fabric pieces together for stitching: • On a table, lay the fabric edges you will join together. • Pin from the garment body towards the outside

seam line. This will hold your fabric more securely, and if you should happen to stitch over a pin, it will stitch over the thinnest part. You can eliminate having to remove your pins at all by placing the pins further back on your garment so they do not fall into the seamline. • Remove pins with your left hand. • Do not stitch over the top of pins. 40

How to Sew on a Button Throughout your life, your garments will lose buttons. Knowing how to sew the button back on is a better option than throwing the garment away, and will only take about 5 minutes of your time.

Buttons with shanks have a part which extends below the button this allows room for the buttonhole to fit with out puckering.

Flat, see-through buttons with holes and without shanks are more common. There are usually 2 or 4 holes in this button. You will need to make your own thread shank when sewing flat buttons.

For both types, start with a double strand of thread in your needle, about 20 inches long. Tie a knot in the end of the thread.

From the wrong side of the fabric, bring up the needle and thread exactly where you want the center of the button.

For shank buttons: bring the thread through the hole in the shank, then down through the fabric very close to where the first thread entered.

Repeat this procedure, up from the bottom, through the shank, down the fabric, five or six times.

Secure the threads underneath the button by taking a few small stitches in one place, then running the needle between the layers of fabric and back through about 1/2 inch away. Clip the thread.

For a flat button: bring the needle and thread up through the fabric where you want the center of the button to be placed, and then through one hole in the button.

Place a toothpick on top of the button, between the holes. Sew over the toothpick as you take the thread down through the other hole(s) and on through the fabric. Repeat this process five times. 41

Bring up the thread through the fabric, but not the button. Remove the toothpick. Lift the button to the top of the stitches, and you will notice there is a thread space between the button and fabric.

Wind the thread tightly around that thread space, three times to form the shank. Take your needle back down to the back side of your fabric.

Secure the threads underneath by taking several small stitches in one spot, then running the needle between the layers of fabric and back up about 1/2 inch away. Clip your thread.

Mending Rips and Holes Mending with the sewing machine is the best way to get a good repair on a used garment. Sometimes, on small holes, a dab of “Fray Check” (available at fabric stores) on the spot is all it will take to keep the spot from fraying or getting larger. Other times you will need a patch. Taking time to mend will increase the life of your garment, saving you money in the long run. Important: never wash the garment prior to repair work, as this will fray the area and make mending much more complicated.

A small rip can be zig-zag stitched on the sewing machine. Be sure to use a matching thread color. Set your stitch width as wide as it will go, and your length at about .5. A single row of stitching should be sufficient if the rip was small. If not, go onto the next step.

To mend a larger tear, find a fabric similar to the garment fabric to use as a patch. Lay the pre-washed patch fabric underneath the tear and pin in place. (Make sure the patch fabric is prewashed so that it will not shrink later and pull away from the repair).

From the right side, zig-zag on one side of the tear, with the stitch width as wide as it will go, and your length at about .5. Repeat for the other side of the tear. Stitch in between as many times as you need to secure the tear area. Be sure to use matching thread and patch fabric.

Trim away the excess patch fabric from the back side to reduce the bulk in the repair area.

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How to Iron a Shirt Knowing how to iron a shirt is a life survival skill. Cuffs and collar are the most difficult parts to iron. Follow these steps and the shirt will be wrinkle free. Spray starch added to each area gives a crisp look.

Ironing:

Lay the collar flat on the ironing board. Press the back side first, then the top of the collar.

Laying the shirt over the end of the ironing board, press the front and back yoke area. Be sure to press all the way to the armhole seam.

Folding:

Follow the same procedure with the cuffs: unbutton the cuffs. Press the inside cuff first, then outside cuff. Roll the cuff as you press.

Lay the sleeve flat, with the seam along the lower edge, finger press flat, making a fold along the top edge. Hold firmly with right hand as you press with the left. Repeat on the other sleeve.

Laying the right front across the ironing board, iron it smooth. Be sure to press around and between the buttons. Repeat on left side. Give a little extra attention to the left center front band (Where the buttonholes are).

Iron the back of the shirt smooth.

You have a choice of hanging your shirt on a hanger, or folding it. Here is how to fold a shirt:

1. Button the shirt and lay it face down. 2. Fold 1/3 of the shirt back from each side. 3. Fold the sleeves back so that they lay in a straight line with the shirt. 4. Place your hand on the shirt 1/3 the distance up from the bottom and fold the bottom up. 5. Now place your hand on the shirt 1/3 the distance from the top, and fold the collar edge down.

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Curriculum Guides are for use with

Stitches & Pins, and Buckles & Bobbins

Stitches and Pins, A Beginning Sewing Book for Girls This learn to sew book starts at the very beginning, from getting acquainted with your machine, supplies, patterns, fabrics, etc. to stitching and creating projects to use or give. All 14 projects are presented with step-by-step directions, teaching you techniques then using those techniques through projects, with techniques and projects building upon one another. The student builds confidence as she masters new skills. The book includes all the patterns needed for girls sizes 8 - 16, and misses sizes 8 16. A wonderful resource for teaching beginning sewing! Curriculum guide on pages 45-46

Buckles and Bobbins, A Beginning Sewing Book For Boys Buckles and Bobbins follows the same format as Stitches and Pins, however the projects in this book have been adapted specifically for boys. Boys who love cargo pants, camouflage fishing and hunting vests and really cool gear cases, bags and packs, will enjoy working through the 16 projects in this book. Patterns for the boys sizes 8-16 are included. Curriculum guides for this book are on pages 48-49.

You may purchase these books on-line at: www.bunkhousesewing.com Or by calling: 1-800-337-8845, ask for JoAnn 44

45

46

47

48

49

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Tips for teaching children to sew (and adults, too!) There are a few steps you can take to insure a positive sewing experience for your child. Below are some ideas that will eliminate unforeseen problems, and make sewing fun! Patterns and Cutting: • Children struggle with putting in pins. It is only necessary to pin corners, and them have them weight areas in between. For weights, have them fill empty film containers with pennies, washers, or anything that has weight, put the lid on, and place these on your patterns. • Please purchase a good set of shears. If the scissors you have do not cut fabric for you, don’t expect your child to be able to cut fabric with them. They do make nice dressmaking shears in smaller sizes for children. We offer Gingher scissors on our site. • No need to cut notches, Color coding dots are a quick and easy way to mark important guides onto your fabrics. These 1/4” round dots can be purchased at most office supply stores. You simply stick them to your fabric where the markings need to be transferred from pattern to fabric. After you have used them for guides or stitching, you just peel them off. These dots are inexpensive, quick and easy , and actually fun to use. • The best marking tool to use when you are sewing is free! Save those slivers of soap left in the shower and use them to mark. Soap is quick and easy, and washes out nicely. • After your pattern pieces are in place, cut around (1/2” - 1” away) the individual pattern pieces. Children have difficulty cutting angles and curves. This way they can move the pattern piece around to best be able to cut it evenly. • Kids spill pins, and pin cushions are awkward. Invest in a magnetic pin holder. This is especially important if you are sewing over carpeting. • If it is difficult to identify the right side of your fabric, place a safety pin on the right side of each garment piece before removing the pattern for sewing. The Sewing Machine: • Too short? Find a pillow to put on your chair to sit taller. Then, find a box the right height to put the foot control pedal on, making it a comfortable height. Use duct tape and tape the pedal to the box. • Even adults have frustration with run-away foot pedals. To keep your foot pedal from wandering on you, purchase a piece of rubber matting to place the pedal on. It’s great to use under your machine, too, to keep it in place and cut down on the noise. Rubber matting can be purchased wherever area rugs are sold. • If you have problems controlling the speed of your machine, try putting a piece of foam between the base and the foot pedal lever. This will slow the machine down, and give your child better pressure foot control. • Teach your child to be neat with his threads from the beginning. Masking tape a folded down small paper sack to the table to the right side of the machine to put small snips and threads in.

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• A product called Wonder Tape can be purchased to hold seams, pocket, etc. in place of pins • Children need a better seam edge guide when sewing than that little 1/2” long indentation on your sewing machine plate. You may purchase a magnetic seam gauge guide, which you can move to any seam allowance. However, this guide should not be used on any computerized machine. We also use blue painters tape which can extend further in front for more accuracy. General: • Use empty film cases for bent pins and broken needles that need to be disposed of. • Never teach sewing when a child is tired. As a beginner, a child needs to focus and anticipate this as a fun experience. • Start children on the machine right away. There is a tendency to spend too much time on

information and practice, which tends to kill their initial excitement in learning to sew. • Plan projects for your children’s skill level. Let them see success before they tackle a project that is too difficult. Save those tiny doll clothes for later. • At about age nine, children are capable and wanting to learn to run the sewing machine. Starting them too young will cause frustration. Of course, if you have a child begging to begin, you may start them younger, just keep the sessions short. • Let your children choose their own fabrics. Don’t even practice on something out of grandmother’s supply or leftovers. The objective is that they learn to “Love to Sew”, which means projects made from fabrics they select themselves and will want to show off. • It’s fun for your children if you, or someone else, has time to sew with them. When I taught my daughter, I would make the project to show her how, and then she would make it. We sewed together and it was fun for both of us. • Limit your children’s time at the machine to two hours when beginning. You don’t want sewing time to be so long that it overwhelms them, and it’s wonderful to have them begging for the next session. • Make sure your machine is working well. Breakdowns discourage children, and prevent them from completing projects. • Do as little ripping out as possible. No one is an expert when learning. Choose projects that will forgive a stitching line that is a bit squiggly. When I teach, and even with my own daughter, I always ripped out the first time they made a mistake. If they made the same mistake again, they ripped it out. Rarely, did the same thing happen a third time! I hope these tips, along with the other puzzles and activities in this book, will make your time teaching children to sew a pleasant experience.

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From the Bunkhouse... Learn to sew. From plugging in the sewing machine to creating a pair of pajamas, Stitches & Pins guides the novice seamstress with clear, step-by-step instructions. 14 projects complete with patterns, girls sizes 8 - 16, are useful items the seamstress will be proud to use, wear, or give. Tote bags, vests, and blankets: each project focuses on mastering specific techniques, and builds upon skills learned. Special techniques - bias tape, quilting, embellishments - ensure the final creation will be as professionally constructed as it was fun to make.

Buckles & Bobbins, A Beginning Sewing Book for Boys, is replete with projects arranged from elementary - a pillowcase and laundry bag - to the more advanced - duffel bags, back packs, cargo pants, and a reversible sports vest that can be customized with pockets, mesh lining, and a zippered front closure. The step-by-step instructions and illustrations clearly present the chosen technique, with each project building upon techniques previously introduced. All patterns, boys sizes 8 - 16 are included! Pins & Needles continues what Stitches & Pins started, delving into more difficult sewing techniques like waistbands, zippers, and set-in sleeves. There are sections on polar fleece, heirloom sewing, quilting, and projects using the serger. In all, there are over 30 projects, something to be stitched or quilted for every season of the year. All the patterns, girls sizes 8 - 16 and misses sizes 8 - 16 are included in a handy pocket built into the back of the book.

Special occasions will reflect your creativity as you learn the simple techniques, stitches, and procedures involved in creating beautiful works of love. Pintucks and Lace walks you through the challenges of lace, applique, pintucks and other techniques used in creating heirloom style clothing. And it can be done in a fraction of the time that you would expect it to take. The 24 projects in this book, which includes patterns, are designed to help you master new skills and build confidence as you create your own heirlooms.

Make outfits for yourself, and matching ones for your doll with our 18 inch doll clothing patterns that coordinate with the sewing projects in each of our learn to sew books.

Make your own cloth doll from our 18 inch or 36 inch “Children of the World” doll patterns patterns. Each pattern contains directions for the doll and one outfit for each nationality.

Check out our website: www.bunkhousesewing.com or call us to order: 1-800-337-8845

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Quilting Patterns We offer quick and easy quilt patterns for the beginner, with a variety of themes for children as well as adult interests. Most projects use piecing and/or fusible applique. Projects include pillows, potholders, wall hangings, travel games, table runners, placemats, doll quilts, Christmas projects, and traditional quilts in all sizes. All 14 patterns can easily be completed by a beginning student. We have more challenging projects for the experienced, skilled quilter including gorgeous stained glass church banners, intricately pieced quilts, and inspirational designs. Seven beautiful patterns have been designed for the veteran quilt maker. Check out our website to view all of our quilting projects, in larger sizes, with complete descriptions and sizes for each project. We are adding new seasonal church banner designs to this section - so check back often.

NEW!!!

eBooks and ePatterns are now available at our website. Purchase at a discounted price, save shipping costs, and have your purchase in your email box within minutes. Most books and patterns available now.

Kits To Stitch We have put together kits for all of the projects in Stitches & Pins and Buckles & Bobbins Bobbins. All the materials, sewing notions, and thread are included in the kit for each project. Be sure to check out all the kits out on our website for more information and to make fabric selections.

Website www.bunkhousesewing.com All of our products, with complete descriptions and pictures, sample pages of books, prices and easy online ordering. For any additional information, or to call to order, contact JoAnn, 1-800-337-8845. 54

Sewing Supplies Gingher dressmaking scissors and shears wonder tape - quick bias - quilt fuse - and more! We offer our favorite sewing supplies for you at discounted prices on our website.

Activities & Teaching Aids Browse through our website - free puzzles, sewing tips, home school curriculum guide pages for Stitches & Pins and Buckles & Bobbins Bobbins, free sewing projects, and photo gallery. Great teacher resources!