Romancing the Roads: A Driving Diva's Firsthand Guide, East of the Mississippi (Volume 1)

ROMANCING THE ROADS 11_155_Davis.indb i 5/31/11 2:46 PM 11_155_Davis.indb ii 5/31/11 2:46 PM ROMANCING THE ROA...

Author: Gerry Hempel Davis

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ROMANCING THE

ROADS

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ROMANCING THE

ROADS

A DRIVING DIVA’S FIRSTHAND GUIDE Volume I: East of the Mississippi

GERRY HEMPEL DAVIS

TAYLOR TRADE PUBLISHING

Lanham • New York • Boulder • Toronto • Plymouth, UK

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Published by Taylor Trade Publishing An imprint of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc. 4501 Forbes Boulevard, Suite 200, Lanham, Maryland 20706 http://www.rlpgtrade.com Estover Road, Plymouth PL6 7PY, United Kingdom Distributed by NATIONAL BOOK NETWORK Copyright © 2011 by Gerry Hempel Davis All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote passages in a review. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Information Available Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Davis, Gerry Romancing the roads : a driving diva’s firsthand guide, volume I : east of the Mississippi / Gerry Hempel Davis. p. cm. Includes index. ISBN 978-1-58979-619-5 (pbk. : alk. paper) — ISBN 978-1-58979-620-1 (electronic) 1. United States—Description and travel. 2. Davis, Gerry—Travel— United States. 3. Automobile travel—Northeastern States—Guidebooks. 4. Automobile travel—Southeastern States—Guidebooks. I. Title. E169.Z83D38 2011 917.304—dc22 2011004551 ™ The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992. Printed in the United States of America

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CONTENTS

Acknowledgments

vii

Introduction

ix

Maine

1

Massachusetts

8

Connecticut

11

Rhode Island

18

New York

23

New Jersey

59

Pennsylvania

65

Delaware

72

Maryland

74

Washington, DC

77

Virginia

81

West Virginia

141

Kentucky

150

Tennessee

162

North Carolina

180

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vi | Contents

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South Carolina

195

Georgia

218

Florida: East Coast

241

Florida: West Coast

340

Alabama

364

Ohio

368

Michigan

375

Illinois

385

Wisconsin

389

Contributors

397

Index

399

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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

ithout the enthusiastic encouragement of my sons, Mark and Clint, and my daughters-in-law, Michelle and Chris, and the youthful exuberance of grandchildren Alex, Heyden, and Sawyer, I would just be floundering hither and yon. My sons have always kept me focused on whatever path I am pursuing, even in home tasks. Their words have always gotten me from point one to wherever I thought I might go, and I hope I have also done the same for them. Thank you, one and all, with my entire heart and soul. Each of you is my life.

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––––– Rick Rinehart, publisher, with his pithy words and literary acumen, has been, to me, most appreciated. I thank him for taking me on, putting my words in print, and just being there when my words and directions were more loopy than on target. We got there and have books to prove it. Thank you, RR. ––––– Thank you to each place and person that has come on board for this project: the major hotels, the bed-and-breakfasts, the shops of all varieties, the holes-in-the-wall, the roadside places, the restaurants, the national parks, vii

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viii | Acknowledgments

and more. Everyone helped. I have enjoyed meeting each person and seeing your properties of all sizes, and I appreciate all you have done in my pursuit to document what you allowed me to see and discover. Thank you again. PS: Janice Braunstein and Flannery Scott are exceptional in dealing with publishing agendas and getting the tasks accomplished. Also they are most patient with this author. Accolades and applauds to each of you. I am grateful to you both. Jennifer Kelland Fagan who edited my words and double-checked so many inputs. You are very good. Thank you.

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INTRODUCTION

his compendium of facts, observations, discoveries, reviews, serendipities, humor, logic, experiences, and more is intended for not only the road traveler but the armchair traveler as well. It reads not as a phone book but more as a shared diary of discoveries. Some facts will surprise. Some places will make you want to gas up the car and go. Some tidbits will enhance your conversations. Unless noted, I have been to every place included and seen firsthand what I relate. Apologies to Vermont, New Hampshire, Mississippi, and Indiana. They are on my “to visit” agenda, but as of this writing, I have not explored and discovered enough to include them. As a sign of our times, several places have recently closed, and production of this book was not able to keep pace. I wish them well in their endeavors. Even if you cannot get in the car and discover for yourself, you will gain a better understanding of our wonderful United States. Whether reading about a launch at Cape Canaveral, the unique House on the Rock, an outstanding group of consignment shops, a haunt known primarily by the Natives, a special bed-and-breakfast, an ultra hotel, or a national park, you will be fascinated. And there’s so much more. Enjoy this road trip. The weather is always good, the information is firsthand, and you need not fear a flat tire. Make notes, get a road map, and plan your trip. By seeing our awesome USA, you will be changed forever.

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PRESERVE IT. PRAISE IT. BE PROUD.

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MAINE

riving Maine—America’s only one syllable state—is a delight. With a population of over 1.25 million and more than thirty-three thousand square miles of land area, the state is not crowded . . . yet. It is beautiful and very clean—at least all the places I have seen are. It is cold in the winter but has pleasant temperatures the rest of the year. The nights are crisp. Jackets and sweaters are clothing essentials. The colors of the flowers are vibrant, perhaps due to the brisk temperatures as well as the soil. With a thirty-five-hundred-mile coastline and six thousand lakes and ponds, the water is an ever-present feature of the Maine lifestyle. The state supplies more than forty million pounds of lobster a year! When in Maine, have a lobster or two or three ASAP. I-95 will take you from the bottom almost to the top of the state. It’s a good road, although the traffic in the lower part of the state tends to be congested.

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FREEPORT

L. L. Bean 95 Main St. 877-552-3268 www.llbean.com

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This is the flagship store. Don’t worry about getting there before the shop closes as it is open twenty-four hours a day, 365 days a year. L. L. Bean is an institution of sorts. What an organization! You feel quite confident in the quality of items. The company’s canvas bags are indispensable— regardless of your age or lifestyle. You might not see anything that you need, but just having an L. L. Bean on-site experience is worth a stop. From Freeport you can stay on I-95 to Bangor, then on to the Canadian border. I suggest taking U.S. 1 at Brunswick, a very short distance from Freeport, straight up the Maine coast. Try not to be in a rush because there are so many charming stops to make—places to see, eat, buy, browse, and chat while you visit.

CAMDEN This quaint but sophisticated town has definitely been discovered, so it might not stay so quaint for very long.

Whitehall Inn 52 High St. 207-236-3391 or 800-789-6565 www.whitehall-inn.com

Open from May to October, this wonderful property, with its big porch and inviting demeanor, had been operated by the Dewing family for over thirty-four years. As of this writing, the Whitehall is now owned and operated by Greg and Sue Marquise. Upon arriving on the tree-lined street and seeing this beautiful white inn, you know you are about to enjoy nostalgic charms of varied varieties. There are forty-five rooms: king, queen, double, and twin. I liked the single room for one person. My room was so cozy and just right. The inn has modern amenities, including high-speed Internet, but I adored the still-in-use telephone-switchboard system. Greg Marquise told me that they had added a small waterfall out front, and all agree that it enhances the garden. In 1912, a young girl named Edna St. Vincent Millay recited one of her poems here for the guests, one of whom was so impressed with the talents

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Maine | 3

of this twelve-year-old that she sponsored her college education. One might say that the career of one of America’s favorite poets was launched at Whitehall Inn. Many items from the poet’s collections can be enjoyed here. The meals at Whitehall are praised by all. The breakfast muffins and breads are baked daily, and the homemade soups and local seafood from the inn’s Down East kitchen will not disappoint. Most of the fruits, vegetables, and eggs are from local farms. There is a lot to do during your visit. Check with the very informed and pleasant staff for what to do and see in the area. Reservations are suggested, even if you are just having dinner at the Whitehall Inn. Rates range from $99 to $199. Children are welcome, but there is no smoking, and no pets are allowed.

U.S. 1 The towns of Belfast, Searsport, Bucksport, and Ellsworth are all on U.S. 1. In Searsport, a small sign enticed me. I really do not remember what it said, but I drove into the driveway, got out of the car, and walked into an open garage. What treasures I found! There, on about eight long tables, were boxes with title cards categorizing topics of articles from magazines, newspapers, and the like. As I found out later, Sandra Baker, the owner and organizer of all this, called her business “Visual Images and Articles on Any Subject.” The Baker business has closed, but I relate this to illustrate why not to hesitate to follow a tempting sign. Continuing on U.S. 1, you will find larger Maine places—Blue Hill, Southwest Harbor, Northeast Harbor, Bar Harbor, and Acadia National Park—but the tiny, in-between places are real gems and not to be overlooked. Many of the more populated places can be pricey.

NORTHEAST HARBOR I knew nothing about this wonderful place when I was asked to help with a project for the summer in Northeast. Here, I found a quietly sophisticated,

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somewhat elite, charming, and posh oasis that, in its own way, is quaint and homey. Northeast Harbor, part of the town of Mount Desert and located on the southern end of Mount Desert Island, is situated at the entrance of Somes Sound—the only fjord (a long narrow arm of the sea bordered by steep cliffs) on the East Coast of the United States. It has a gorgeous, protected harbor full of the most beautiful sailing and yachting vessels. Constraints on the budget may keep one from staying in Northeast Harbor, but there is no charge to shop and dine in Northeast and generally admire the town. There are also beautiful gardens to visit. You should check with the Mount Desert Chamber of Commerce (207-276-5040).

Cranberry Island and Little Cranberry Island To get to these gems you must take your own boat or use the Beal & Bunker Mail Boat (202-244-3575), Delight Water Taxi (207-244-5724), or another service. Adult fare is approximately $24 round-trip; children ages three to eleven travel for $12; children under three ride free. Bicycles are $7. There are restaurants on the islands. Several cruises on the Sea Princess, leaving from the Northeast Harbor dock and ranging in length from one to three hours, are available and highly recommended. These cruises are in calm, wonderful waters. A professional who brings everything alive narrates. The wildlife sightings are often exceptional. I have never had a bad time on any of the cruises. If you have time for only one, I vote for the trip to Cranberry Island (www .islesford.com will give you information).

Acadia National Park Acadia National Park Mount Desert Island 207-288-3338 www.nps.gov/acad

This magnificent national park is a unique jewel and not to be missed. It is open year-round, although the Visitors Center is only open from May through early October. Most of the park is on Mount Desert Island. The entrance fees vary, ranging from $5 for an individual, $20 for a car, to $40 for

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Maine | 5

an annual pass. Be sure to drive, bike, or walk the twenty-seven-mile Park Loop Road, which will take you to Cadillac Mountain; this 1,530-foot-high peak is the highest on the eastern seaboard. Drive up to the peak before dawn and experience the earliest sunrise in the United States. The loop will also take you to Sand Beach and Otter Cliffs. There are many places to stop and view the awe-inspiring scenery. You will see a Maine mix of jagged coastlines with crashing waves. Then there are the lakes, ponds, and spectacular vistas. The wildlife sightings are frequent and wonderful. You will not want to rush while you visit this special place. The weather varies, so check conditions and take that extra sweater or parka. Each U.S. national park is unique. We must preserve these treasures of which the United States is so lucky to be the custodian. While in Maine, if your polar bear genes surface, you can go for a swim in the beautiful waters. Call for more information or visit the website.

Hotels

Asticou Inn 15 Peabody Dr. 207-276-3344 or 800-258-3373 www.asticou.com

The Asticou is definitely a place to stay or at least visit. Steeped in Maine history, this property is beautifully situated overlooking the sparkling blue waters of Northeast Harbor. Victorian elegance is evident. I had a nice evening at the inn at a wonderfully civil and enjoyable summer dance. I found everything I saw charming. I am certain, from what I have read and been told, that if they are anything on a par with the public rooms, any of the forty-six rooms will not disappoint.

Maison Suisse Inn Main Street, PO Box 1090 207-276-5223 www.bedbreakfasthome.com/maisonsuisse

A gravel lane on the left side of this property leads you to the parking lot behind the inn, where bright flowers accent the area. The inn is located on Main Street, a stone’s throw from the downtown shops and restaurants of

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Northeast Harbor. Maison Suisse is small and charming. The setting of the inn is flower full, and the garden seating is inviting. The decor is Maine unostentatious, but all is graciously sufficient for the guest’s desires. My room with a four-poster canopy bed was cozy and comfortable. A full breakfast is included with your accommodations. Rates in season range from $85 to $395 per night. There is an additional charge for children depending on their age and if an additional bed or crib is requested. Babies under two are free. The state of Maine imposes an additional 7 percent room tax. Maison Suisse is nonsmoking except on the terrace. Once on the property, you can easily see why it has received so many recommendations.

Shopping and Seeing There are many wonderful shops of all varieties in Northeast. Bargains are not easily discovered, but the mix of items is a treat and ever so tempting. Look for notices of a church fair or similar event. These are “must attend.”

Romantic Room Main Street 800-360-3989 www.theromanticroom.com

This intriguing shop is chockablock with wonderful items and is a favorite of mine. It has a colorful and eclectic mix of pieces for every room and for you.

BAR HARBOR Bar Harbor is worth a visit, but be prepared for summer crowds and tourist traps. Originally, it was an escape oasis for the affluent, and although many have remained, there are now summer tourist crowds of hundreds. Despite an influx of people and items to buy, the charms of the original Bar Harbor are still evident. “Open” all year, Bar Harbor is attracting more and more visitors in the winter.

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BLUE HILL This Maine town is a year-round community. It has a little of everything, from galleries, to lodgings, to many, many shops and restaurants. Blue Hill Memorial Hospital (207-374-2836) has a staff of twenty-four physicians. When in Blue Hill, I stayed with a friend—so you are on your own as far as lodging is concerned, but it does exist. I found Blue Hill a delightful town, one where it would be easy to spend more than just a fleeting visit all the while making discoveries. Note: If, during your Maine drives, you pass a farm and see cows in a field that look like no other cow you have ever seen, do not think you have lost it. You are looking at Belted Galloway cattle, which are black with a broad white band circling their midriffs—if that is what you call the middle part of a cow. I learned that these cows are hardier, leaner, and sweeter than many other cows. They are easy to raise and resist most all bovine diseases.

If you are in York Harbor Maine, call Dede Cadieux (207-363-3016) or visit her website at www.dedecadieux.com. Her jewelry designs are affordable, wearable, creative, and multifaceted. Watch for her trunk and boutique shows.

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MASSACHUSETTS

ith apologies to Massachusetts, I am just going to say, Go and visit. It has been a long time since I have been to this state, but I will relate miscellaneous information from my Boston experience and details about a most unique new hotel.

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BOSTON Boston is a hub of colleges and universities. The museums are noteworthy, and the many neighborhoods have distinctive characters. Don’t skip visiting Faneuil Hall Marketplace. Faneuil Hall has almost everything you can imagine—to see, to eat, to buy, to totally enjoy. FYI: I was on my first book tour for The Moving Experience. Younger and overflowing with enthusiasm for what I had accomplished, I was scheduled to be in Boston for TV segments and a book signing. I was booked into what was then called the Ritz-Carlton Boston, 15 Arlington St. (617-5365700). Even then, with my novice traveler’s eyes, I knew I was staying in a gem, and, of course, the name gives a clue. It was old-world charm to the max. This might have been my first hotel with heated towel bars.

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Massachusetts | 9 The Ritz Boston has now become the Taj Boston, and I am sure that it maintains its original credentials, as well as the hot towel bars. I was told that the Ritz was known for many things, but the blueberry muffins and the chocolate chip cookies were not to be overlooked. Sitting at a window table, although alone, in the Café, enjoying a simple breakfast of a blueberry muffin and coffee, I was glad to have been informed. While at this beautiful property, I was informed that the Ritz Bar was famous for its martinis, and the Ritz Fizz was created here. During this trip, a big snowstorm caused schedules to be canceled, and I was on my own to discover the city. As I was close to fashionable Newbury Street, I bundled up and walked around, then strolled over to the Public Garden. The new snow was beautiful. I was on a mission to visit a Boston landmark—Filene’s Basement. The youthful me wondered, “Do I ask the concierge at the Ritz how to get to Filene’s?” I couldn’t bring myself to ask, but somehow I found the famous store on my own, and it proved a happening. The bargains were constant, as was the quality of the clothing. The original Filene’s Basement, the first of its kind, was a merchandizing icon. It started in 1908, and although the original Downtown Crossing location has closed, there is a Filene’s at 497 Boylston St. Still, no present-day Filene’s is like the original. Note: Sales tax on clothing and food in Massachusetts is lower than in other places.

Liberty Hotel 215 Charles St., Beacon Hill 866-507-5245 (JAIL) www.libertyhotel.com

The new, ultraluxurious Liberty Hotel was once the notorious Boston jail. The original catwalks where guards paraded remain, and I have been told that if you look closely, you can see the holes where the bars were in the windows. It took a mere $150 million in renovation. The names of the various hotel sites reflect jailhouse lingo: the hotel bar is the Alibi; the restaurants are called Clink and Scampo (Italian for “escape”).

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The Liberty Hotel offers outdoor movies and Yappier Hour, when you can bring your furry friends to the Yard and order a Puptail or a Muttini. There are guided walking tours, summer yoga, kayaking and sailing, bike rentals, picnics, and guided runs. On Tuesday night, there are displays from prominent local artists, and on most Thursdays, the fashion minded attend Fashionably Late, where models parade through the lobby, and the crowd judges the fashions. I loudly applaud the fortitude of the owners and the unquestionable creativity that has been implemented throughout. You might have to rob several piggy banks to spend the night in jail, but I believe it is worth every penny.

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CONNECTICUT

his small state is a mix of fabulous shorelines, bucolic settings, estates, industrial cities belching smoke, major college campuses, abandoned mill towns, ski areas, and a few unpretentious villages that progress seems to have bypassed. Towns like manicured Greenwich, Darien, and New Canaan are so close to New York City that they take on an almost urban aura, while places like Essex, Madison, Litchfield, Salisbury, and Lakeville attempt to preserve their country charm, albeit in a quiet, sophisticated way. Connecticut’s main drag is the infamous I-95, which, on the weekends in summer, can become a parking lot. It also gets easily congested during rush hour, bad weather, construction, or “just because.” You can work around I-95 by taking the Merritt Parkway, unless, of course, everybody else has decided to do the same thing. Once you are in the country, road travel is better—usually. Connecticut is notorious for winding, twisting, hilly roads. So be it, as they lead to some charming towns with antique shops, boutiques, yard sales, country auctions, and church fairs. Check newspapers and bulletin boards and ask people for upcoming events. You don’t want to miss a country sale or local happening. The coastline has a lot to offer, with charming towns like Madison, Guilford, Old Saybrook, and Essex, the latter of which is actually on the Connecticut River. Charming Essex, called by some “The Best Small Town in America,” will not let you down. Only 10.4 square miles in size and with a population

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of about seven thousand, Essex was one of the earliest settlements in Connecticut. Though farming was the original occupation of most residents, it wasn’t long before Essex became a maritime town. Today, the waters are still filled with boats of all sizes, but mostly of the pleasure variety, and the town’s narrow streets are filled with shops, restaurants, and bed-and-breakfasts.

BOOM 63 Pilots Point Dr., Westbrook 860-399-2322 www.boomrestaurant.net

What a charming restaurant! BOOM has an outdoor deck and outdoor dining. The atmosphere, food, and people are all delightful. Call for directions. I have learned that there is another BOOM in Old Lyme, Connecticut. A very short drive from Essex is Fenwick. In this charming tiny area on the water, I saw where the one-and-only Katharine Hepburn lived. Even as renovations were being done by the new owners, it still oozed KH. The Long Island Sound is wonderfully vivid, and on a clear day you can see across to its namesake.

MADISON With a population of over sixteen thousand and covering thirty-six square miles, Madison, on the Long Island Sound, is a thriving community. Before finding where my Madison friend lived, I found a very useful enterprise:

Dino’s Auto Spa 209 Boston Post Rd. 203-318-9274

This state-of-the-art car wash will make your automobile look new. Car washes range from $10 to $23 and up. Car washes have come a long way, Baby. I did not realize that the Madison area played a big part in the Revolutionary War, and the huge waterfront area is now Hammonasset Beach State Park, which is the largest shoreline in Connecticut.

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Hammonasset Beach State Park 1288 Boston Post Rd. (Exit 62 off I-95) 203-245-2785 or 866-287-2757

CONNECTICUT, AKA THE CASINO STATE In 1970 the Mashantucket Pequot (Foxwoods) and Mohegan (Mohegan Sun) tribes reclaimed previously seized lands with the help of the Native American Rights Fund and Indian Rights Association. With their sovereignty over these lands, the tribes legalized gambling and built two huge, glamorous casino resorts that welcome over forty thousand visitors a day. (That’s not a misprint, and recently the number has probably grown.) Both casinos are centrally located and easy to get to from New York, Boston, Providence, and Hartford. As my younger son said, “You won’t need directions. Just follow the limos and buses.”

Foxwoods 350 Trolley Line Blvd., Route 2, Mashantucket 800-369-9663 www.foxwoods.com

Foxwoods is the largest casino in the world with over 340,000 square feet of gaming space. The complex, itself 4.7 million square feet, comprises the casino and three hotels—Grand Pequot Tower, Great Cedar Hotel, and Two Trees Inn—with over fourteen hundred rooms. My room in the Grand Pequot Tower commanded a beautiful view of the Connecticut countryside. There are twenty-six restaurants and eateries at Foxwoods, several of which I tried. (Needless to say, I didn’t eat at all twenty-six during my short stay.) Paragon Restaurant, a Four Diamond, purports to offer “the ultimate experience in gourmet dining,” but I was a bit disappointed. Though the service was excellent, the restaurant was noisy, and my plate had too much food and too many sauces. The potatoes didn’t go with the meal. I don’t think the restaurant really deserved four diamonds on this particular night. It takes more than edible orchids and warm towels to win accolades, but I’m an admittedly tough critic. I was also disappointed by the casual dress of some of my fellow diners, but that’s not the restaurant’s fault.

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The gambling ambiance is colorful and noisy. With seventy-two hundred slot machines, Foxwoods has more than any other casino in the world, and there are 380 gaming tables. I like the slots because there’s no need to think—just pray. If you happen to win, there are plenty of shops along the concourse where you can spend your money on things you didn’t know you had been looking for. If you happen to lose, there’s a wonderful spa where you can physically or mentally distract yourself from your losses. My massage was very nice. The Mashantucket tribe has put its profits to good use in a spectacular Indian museum less than a mile away. Set aside the better part of a day for a visit; it will take you back in time for a re-creation of pre-whitesettlement Connecticut. In fact, the exhibits go so far back that the tour actually starts with the last ice age.

Spa at Norwich Inn 607 W. Thames St., Norwich 860-886-2401 www.thespaatnorwichinn.com

Also owned by the Mashantucket Pequot tribe just ten miles from Foxwoods, the Spa at Norwich Inn is small but delightful. Located off I-395 and Route 2, it is situated on forty-two acres and has one hundred guest rooms, including inn rooms, country suites, and four signature suites. The fully equipped spa is beautiful. Compared to the behemoths up the road—there’s not a thing wrong with behemoth; it’s just different—the spa is intimate, which possibly explains why so many (including celebrities) choose this oasis. Indeed, it feels more like a prestigious private property than a hotel spa. My accommodations were very attractive and comfortable, though the bathroom did have those toilets seats that I don’t like, and there was no magnifying mirror—which can be a plus. A sign by the bed explains that the linens are changed every other day in order to conserve water and preserve the environment. This is becoming almost universal. Villas with a galley kitchen, fireplace, and more privacy are also available. Kensington’s, the main dining room, naturally stresses healthy eating. The almond-crusted shrimp I ordered was delicious. The live cabaret music à la Bobby Short helped offset the noisy chatter, which would have

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been annoying if not for the music. Once again, though, a fair share of diners were shabbily dressed, including one man who didn’t bother to remove his baseball cap. I would have understood if he wore the cap for a specific reason. He appeared to have a head of hair, so I rate the reason as simple impropriety. Unfortunately, I have seen this impropriety more times than I wish to remember. Breakfast was only adequate. The half grapefruit was served with a soup spoon, and the eggs were overcooked. Breakfast seems to be a problem for many “fine” restaurants. I have just learned that the Kensington dining room has recently been redecorated. The full-service Spa is very attractive and well run. I recommend enjoying it as many times as possible. I had the pleasure of a wonderful massage wrap.

Mohegan Sun Resort 1 Mohegan Sun Blvd., Uncasville 888-226-7711 www.mohegansun.com

This impressive complex of imposing glass buildings rises from the bucolic Connecticut countryside. With three hundred thousand square feet of gaming space, Mohegan Sun is the second-largest casino in the world. Owned and operated, of course, by the Mohegan tribe (Mohegan means “wolf people”), it opened in 1996 and hasn’t stopped growing. Much of the decor on the property has a meaning to the Mohegan people. For example, the woven panels surrounding the outer edge of the lobby “symbolize the importance of basketry to the eastern woodland Indians.” If you didn’t know this, you would probably think that it was just a very original design element. Then there is the Three Sisters terrazzo flooring, the “three sisters” being corn, beans, and squash—staples to many Algonquian and Iroquoian people. The backlit opalescent glass designs represent the aurora borealis, and beadwork is displayed at the Casino of the Sky. You enter this impressive property on a large balcony level overlooking the downstairs, whose centerpiece is a ten-thousand-pound sculpture by Dale Chihuly. This glass artwork resembles (to me) the spout of a tornado and consists of twenty-five hundred handblown glass components, all assembled on-site. It is definitely awesome and impressive.

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Shoppingwise, Mohegan Sun has something for everyone, from Imus Brothers’ Coffee Shop to Chico’s, Cache, Brookstone, and Big Bubba’s BBQ. It’s like being at an upscale mall with a theme park ambiance and casinos that are open 24/7. There are twelve hundred luxury rooms in the thirty-four-story hotel tower. My room was spacious, comfortable, and attractive, with all the amenities you could want and a beautiful view from the large window. As an added measure of security, guards check your key before you go up to your room. There are twenty-nine dining venues, ranging from gourmet restaurants to casual dining to food courts. I dined one evening under the Taughannick waterfalls at Todd English’s Tuscany, which offered authentic regional Italian selections and specialized in the freshness and quality of its vegetables. Both the food and the service were good. Since I visited Mohegan Sun, many new and sensational attractions have been added. The sixty-four-thousand-square-foot Casino of the Wind has opened. There are forty-five thousand square feet of gaming, including over seven hundred slot machines, a forty-five-table poker room, and twenty-five additional table games. The Mohegan tribe’s traditions are represented throughout. To me, this adds a special historic and personal touch. Located in Casino of the Wind is Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville. As I’m a Florida Keys aficionado, Mr. Buffett, here I come! Chef Bobby Flay, adding his creativity and talents, has opened Bobby’s Burger Palace and Bar Americain. Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana and Fidelia’s Market (Fidelia mean “flying bird” and was also the name of a revered Mohegan woman) are also new additions that I hope to visit. The Elemis Spa at the Mohegan Sun is attractive, well run, and comfortable. Founded in Great Britain in 1990, Elemis products and spa treatments stress minimal environmental intrusion. The massage I had was certainly relaxing with no noticeable “intrusions.” Mohegan Sun also has a wonderful area for children staffed by professionals trained in CPR and first aid. They take children from six weeks (!) to twelve years old. More expansions are on the drawing boards, and they are not small.

Delamar 500 Steamboat Rd., Greenwich 203-661-9800

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I have not heard a derogatory word about this property; therefore, I include it. Also, I knew a previous general manager and respect his properties. Delamar is added as an FYI. It receives superb ratings, and not a thing is out of place. Because it is on the beautiful Greenwich Harbor, this property’s placement has a very special dimension and ambiance. I look forward to verifying my Delamar info.

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RHODE ISLAND

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or such a tiny state, not only is Rhode Island charming, but it offers a lot for all.

NEWPORT The drive to Newport from New York City (approximately 185 miles) is easy, provided you avoid summer weekend traffic. Also, be sure to get exact directions, regardless of your mode of transportation. Once you cross the Newport Bridge, you will quickly discover you are in a special and different (as in very nice) place. You will find streets that change their names after a few blocks and streets that change their traffic direction from one way to another way. Do not be perturbed. Walking around Newport is a delight. Around almost every corner, there is something to discover. Newport boasts one of the finest “collections” of grand mansions of the Gilded Age—opulent, extraordinary, and magnificent edifices created by the industrial barons of the era. Quaintly (and wrongly) referred to as “cottages,” they are as grand as you could possibly envision. A number of them can be found along Bellevue Avenue. Many are open to the public, and visiting is quite an experience. What was

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once “normal” for some will elicit several expressions of “Oh my!” from us mere mortals today. Thames Street is the main street by the water. Only in the winter will you find it empty. The small but elite houses in the surrounding area are maintained to perfection, retaining their original beauty and grace. Newport boasts over four hundred pre–Revolutionary War houses—more than any other town in the United States. Touro Synagogue, the oldest synagogue in America, is within a short walk’s distance from the older section of Newport. This town is also home to the Tennis Hall of Fame and Newport Casino. Both are worth visiting. It’s a pleasure to walk around the waterfront in the evening. Get an ice cream or a coffee, and find a bench. There is plenty of people watching to do.

Newport Candlelight Tour of Historic Homes For over thirty-six years, this most spectacular tour of historic Newport homes has been held on the three days after Christmas (December 26 to 28). A small donation is requested at each house, and reservations are not necessary. For details, call 401-849-6454 or visit www.christmasinnewport.org. Have fun. That is easy to do in Newport.

Eateries Mama Leone’s Pizza and Italian Restaurant 150 Connell Highway #1 401-847-7272 www.mamaleones.net

Be certain that you are hungry if you go to this Italian restaurant. The aromas are everything you would expect, the service and atmosphere are pleasant, and the prices are right. While waiting and chatting, I saw mounds of food go by, and although I was tempted, I decided to get something I always like but do not take the time to cook—eggplant parmesan. When the piping-hot plate was put in front of me, I knew I had made the right decision. It proved delicious, and I ate the whole thing!

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There are lots of eateries in Newport, so be adventurous. You might put on a little weight, but you’ll lose it walking. Enjoy!

Hotels

Viking Hotel 1 Bellevue Ave. 401-847-3300 www.hotelviking.com

Privately owned for many years, this conveniently located hotel is now operated under the aegis of Noble House. What an excellent marriage. On this stately and luxurious property, originally built in 1926, I enjoyed a selection of delicious hors d’oeuvres and a drink in what is now called One Bellevue Restaurant. A multi-million-dollar renovation has taken place. Spa Terre is waiting, and knowing the owners’ ways with their many outstanding properties, I am certain the experience at the Viking Hotel will only be superb.

Vanderbilt Hall Hotel 41 Mary St. 401-846-6200 www.vanderbilthall.com

I did not stay at the hotel as remodeling and decorating were taking place, but I did have a chance to walk around. Upscale and very attractive, it has all the accoutrements of a property built when construction was exceptional. Extensive renovations have been done, and the hotel is now also becoming a residence club with ownership of suites available. This wonderful property was given by the Vanderbilts to the YMCA. The original pool is still being used. The dining room is elegant. The only mansion hotel in Newport, it is also part private club.

Shopping Griffon Shop at the Newport Art Museum 76 Bellevue Ave. 401-848-8200 www.newportartmuseum.org

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This consignment antiques and collectibles boutique must be visited for two reasons. First, it is small in space but large in the number of items it carries. Second, it is in the museum, which is a treasure trove. It would not be hard to spend a lot of time and coins here. The shop’s advertising card states, “Life’s luxuries at real-life prices. Original art and fine crafts by local artists. Icons, souvenirs and ornaments from around the world.” Hours: Tuesday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Sunday, 1 p.m. to 4 p.m.; closed Monday.

Closet Revival 51 Marlborough St. 401-845-0592

Conveniently located, this shop is a mix of vintage and current fashions for women and men. It is owned by two women, who have been in business for twenty years. They run a good shop. The Brick Market Place is a mix of shops of all varieties. If your time permits, enjoy walking and tempting yourself in one shop, then another.

Pleasant Surprise 121 Swinburne Row 401-846-1202

This fun, funky, and frisky shop has an eclectic mix, and I do mean eclectic! All price ranges are available. It is hard to leave without purchasing something that will put a smile on your face. I called to check facts and spoke with the owner’s son, Constantine, who added the following: “The owners, my parents, Dorothy Hopkins-Simon and Eli Simon have opened PS TOO. All is going very well, and they are opening a shop in Providence.” Three cheers!

Christmas Tree Shop 19 E. Main Rd., Aquidneck Centre, Middletown 401-841-5100 www.christmastreeshop.com

This shop has a large potpourri of things that you might need and others you might not. The selections are varied, and the bargains are many. Bring your Christmas list, even if you are only visiting Newport and the temperature is 90 degrees.

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Oatley’s 1717 Ten Rod Rd., North Kingstown 401-295-5126

Oatley’s offers a wonderful step back in time, but with all the accoutrements of a family restaurant that is thriving in today’s world. The ambiance, the food, and the prices are right. Enjoy! A short distance from Newport is quaint, residential, and quiet Tiverton. This unpretentious town seems “just right,” especially if you like little stores, antique shops, and a genuinely friendly ambiance. From Tiverton drive to Little Compton and Sakonnet. You will not want to rush. Heading southish from Newport, you can get on Route 102. This is a very pleasant and bucolic area.

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NEW YORK

NEW YORK CITY (MANHATTAN) riving into New York City, especially for the first time, can be a bit of a challenge. Try not to do so at rush hour. If you are entering from the New Jersey Turnpike, be alert as drivers are fearless and constantly jockey for position. Do not let honking horns, hand gestures, or facial expressions distract you. As my driving instructor told me years ago, “Keep your mind on the road. Look where you want to go. Horns, hands, and faces will not hurt you.” Both tunnels into New York (the Lincoln at midtown and the Holland downtown) have tolls, as does the George Washington Bridge. As of this writing, the tolls are about $8 round-trip. You pay going into the city but not out. My late father told me that when the tunnels were being built, it was stated that one day there would be no tolls. So much for political statements. When you are driving in and around the city, your head must be on a swivel at all times. Do not use cell phones while behind the wheel. Be alert, fearless, and don’t get upset with road rudeness. Today’s New York City taxi drivers think they own the streets and drive accordingly.

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Personal Tidbit: When I was a bit younger, a parent could feel it was perfectly safe to put her daughter in a taxi cab alone to go to a friend’s house or to dancing school. When I was a little older, I remember discussing the

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24 | Romancing the Roads issues of the day or whatever with the taxi driver. Today, that isn’t done as the majority of drivers really don’t speak English. Every so often, I have been fortunate to get into a cab driven by one of the “originals,” and that is a treat. You can have an interesting conversation—often about the good old days. You get to your destination, the meter stops, you pay the fare, and you get out of the cab feeling better for a therapeutic conversation with someone you’ll never see again. So much for the way it was!

Regardless of where you are in the city, drivers consider an inch between cars to be a safe driving distance. Remember, an inch is like a foot, just narrower! Do not get into a dither or a panic, and fear not—most of the time. Parking in New York is a hassle. If you park on the street, be aware that the parking rules are strictly enforced. Street parking works if you park in a sensible area and the parking rules fit your schedule. Never leave any items of any kind in view.

Driving Diva Alert: My car was burglarized in broad daylight in front of a building with a doorman. These crooks are fast. They watch for when they can “move and take” in seconds. Even worse, my brother’s entire car was stolen. It turns out that often older cars are stolen for hard-to-find parts.

Garage parking is expensive, more so in busy and popular areas. Consider parking in a garage above Eighty-Sixth Street because prices are somewhat lower. Use your street sense when choosing a garage. I use the Ninety-Fourth Street Garage between Second and Third avenues (231–243 E. Ninety-Fourth St., 212-722-4600). If you have a friend in the city, get his or her advice. Many hotels have a garage or are affiliated with one, but using it will cost you many dollars. Some people have told me they leave their car at a suburban rail station in Connecticut or New Jersey and take the train into town. Another possibility is to stay in a suburban hotel and use the train or bus to get into the city. Planning is key; be sure to check the train schedules carefully, especially late at night. You do not want to get stranded.

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New York has everything you could possibly want and a bit that you might not. This city is well laid out and not difficult to find your way around, once you know the order of the streets and avenues. Get a city map with bus and subway routes; it will be extremely useful. Mark the places you wish to visit on your map before starting out. New York is a great walking city if you are so inclined. The buses and subways are easy and a bargain. You must have exact change for the bus. I recommend that you get a MetroCard, which you can use on the subways and the buses. They can be obtained at any subway station and some newsstands. The card—which can be a day, week, or other length pass—will eliminate the need to carry pounds of quarters around with you. I must confess that when I am in the city for a short time, I do carry a roll of quarters. Driving Diva Tip: The MetroCards do expire. Don’t forget that transfers are free when you pay a fare. You just ask the driver for one. You can take an “avenue” bus, then transfer to a “crosstown” one, and vice versa. Look carefully at the front sign on the bus. Some are marked “limited,” which means they only stop at certain places. This is great if the bus is going where you want. If it’s not, you will probably have to walk a few blocks to your desired destination.

The name New York City brings certain sights immediately to mind. The following are many of my favorites: the Empire State Building, the Statue of Liberty, Central Park with its zoo and merry-go-round, Park Avenue, Fifth Avenue, Madison Avenue, Third Avenue, Wall Street, Broadway, the United Nations, the museums, Chinatown, SoHo, Radio City Music Hall, Rockefeller Plaza, Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, Brooks Brothers, Cartier, Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s, the East Side, the West Side, and everything above, below, sideways, and upside down. There is nothing quite like the Big Apple (details below). It is so easy, even for the experienced traveler or the native New Yorker, to get sidetracked and detoured. Stay focused. Do not wear lots of jewelry, and keep your pocketbook on your shoulder and tucked under your arm at all times. Carry change and your MetroCard in an easy-access pocket

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so you don’t have to scrounge around in your bag for it. That also applies to your cell phone.

Grand Central Station 87 E. Forty-Second St. 212-340-2583 www.grandcentralterminal.com

This magnificent New York landmark has an impressive architecture and can never be duplicated. In the late 1950s, an old, six-story structure at the rear of the terminal was demolished, and the impressive Pan Am Building was constructed and connected to Grand Central Station. Every day at Grand Central Station, about five hundred thousand commuters walk or run to their trains, which run under Park Avenue and arrive here. First, look from the balcony off Vanderbilt Avenue. Then, go down the steps to the main floor to the well-known information booth and look up, down, and around. The ceiling is awesome. You will be amazed as the obvious presents itself: they don’t make them like this any more. Read its history. Walk its floors. It is magnificent. It is awesome. The more you look, the more you see. Thank goodness talk of demolishing this grand edifice was quelled. There are fine shops and restaurants (see below) in Grand Central (see restaurants); the grand daddy of them all being the famous Oyster Bar & Restaurant, which opened the same year as the terminal, circa 1858. Don’t rush, just go. Watch and see, wide-eyed and slowly.

HOTELS To list all the hotels of New York City would take pages. The following lists a small mix of unique or noteworthy establishments. I share firsthand observations.

Waldorf=Astoria 301 Park Ave. 212-355-3000 www.waldorfastoria.com

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Distinguished and elegant, this grand dame is a legend and an icon. Occupying an entire city block from Park to Lexington avenues and FortyNinth to Fiftieth streets, the building challenges description. One only has to walk from the Park Avenue entrance through the famous lobby and out the Lexington Avenue side to realize why it has achieved such high acclaim. The 1,245 guest rooms include 197 suites. The exclusive Astoria Level offers ultraluxurious accommodations, with “deluxe” being the given status of the twenty-sixth floor. The rooms are all well appointed, and some definitely have a “way-back-when” aura evocative of genuine old-world charm and dignity. As you ingest the magnificence of the Waldorf=Astoria, be sure to walk slowly, enjoy the art, and possibly sit in the lobby near the famous clock and watch the scene. You will not be disappointed. Dining at the Waldorf=Astoria is an occasion. There are several restaurants to choose from, be it the Bull and Bear Steakhouse, the famous Oscar’s Brasserie, or the elite Peacock Alley. For years, Waldorf=Astoria executive chef John Doherty, now retired, served as major domo and orchestrated workings in his domain with precision; he was exemplary in whatever he prepared, be it rack of lamb or marinated chicken breast, an appetizer or a dessert. I was fortunate to meet him and tour his kitchens. The kitchen world, with so many parts, is like a city. There are several bars to enjoy a refresher, and tea is served in the afternoon on the Cocktail Terrace. Although the days of dressing up to dine have faded, “proper attire” is still the dress code. You are at the Waldorf=Astoria. Eric Long has been at the helm of the Waldorf=Astoria for many years. He is a master at overseeing—on so many different levels—this impressive grand dame. Driving Diva Factoids: The piano on the Cocktail Terrace belonged to Cole Porter. Also, if you think that the “=” between Waldorf and Astoria is a typo, it is not. Originally there were two hotels, the Waldorf and the Astoria, owned by cousins. The hotels were on Thirty-Fourth Street, where the Empire State Building now stands. When the two owners decided to join forces and move to the present site, the “=” was inserted and continues to this day.

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The Plaza 768 Fifth Ave. (at Fifty-Ninth St. and Central Park) 212-588-8000 www.theplaza.com

This exceptional building is not just a property. In need of a major rehab, this grand dame of hotels was purchased in 2005. A $400 million restoration began immediately, and it was announced that this magnificent edifice would be both hotel and condominium. I have known the hotel very well for years. Hopefully the new owners will remember that it’s not what you do but how you do it. An owner has a responsibility to research carefully when such a grand hotel is under his or her aegis. Visit this beaux arts masterpiece. You can walk around the ground floor, have tea or a meal in the Palm Court, and, of course, stay at this renowned hotel. The famed Oak Room and Oak Bar, Grand Ballroom, and Terrace Room are open. This impressive building oozes grandeur, its walls filled with pomp, history, and probably a ghost or two. Here is another perfect example of “if walls could talk.” I visited the Plaza in May 2008, and my dormant, but indelible, wonderful memories surfaced immediately. I smiled and reflected. Restoration has been completed, but as with any grand dame, there is always something to do and rehab. I am certain that the Plaza is again in the elite category to be enjoyed and appreciated for many generations. Visit the Plaza, a building of grandeur and history.

St. Regis Hotel 2 E. Fifty-Fifth St. 212-753-4500 www.stregis.com

A true grand dame, this New York City landmark hotel exudes ultra refinement. Built by John Jacob Astor, it opened in 1907. It was the epitome of luxury, where personal butlers were at one’s beck and call. In spite of the more relaxed formats of today, the St. Regis has maintained its style and sophistication. Having grown up in New York City, I have known this hotel forever. Recently, I stayed at this beautiful property, and I had many instant memories as I entered. Years ago, evenings out were more formal, and it was a

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very special occasion when your date took you to the St. Regis’s Maisonette—an evening that would include dancing. Those were the days. The King Cole Bar was a favorite place, and its popularity has not faltered. Although the actual bar is still used, its location in the hotel has moved many times. The famous King Cole mural by Maxfield Parrish can still be seen. The Bloody Mary was invented here, although it was originally called the Red Snapper. The original name was changed due to the opinion that it was too “rustic” and that Bloody Mary was more appealing. (I wonder what all the Marys thought!) The Astor Court, on the ground floor near the King Cole Bar, serves traditional tea in the afternoon as well as breakfast and lunch. This is a wonderful meeting place. A new restaurant at the hotel has opened: Adour Alain Ducasse (212-710-2277, www.adour-stregis.com). I have not had the pleasure of dining at Adour with Alain Ducasse, but I look forward to meeting him and his culinary team. Adour is only open for dinner. Call or go online for reservations. Observation: The St. Regis’s guests are impressive, well dressed, and attractive. It is obvious that the hotel’s true sumptuousness is appreciated by the cognoscente and the aficionado.

Carlyle Hotel 35 E. Seventy-Sixth St. 212-744-1600 www.thecarlyle.com

Included at this ultimate, refined property is the Carlyle Restaurant (212-570-7192), Café Carlyle, and Bemelmans Bar. The Carlyle Restaurant is elegant, with its signature huge floral arrangement, proper table settings, and quiet ambiance. Dining here has always been superb. “Gracious” is another word that applies. Café Carlyle is wonderful. You might have to pinch yourself just to be sure you are not in a movie as you enjoy the performing talent. I think the presence of the legendary late Bobby Short, who enthralled audiences for over thirty-five years, is still felt. Bemelmans Bar is quite the bar. Ludwig Bemelmans, creator of the

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classic Madeline children’s book series, painted the wonderful murals that give it a special ambiance. The prices at the Carlyle are what you would expect at a property so dignified and refined—substantial. Be sure to look carefully, from top to bottom, at this beautiful property.

The Surrey 20 E. Seventy-Sixth St. 212-288-3700 www.thesurreyhotel.com

Delightfully exclusive in so many ways, the Surrey was built in 1928 as a residence hotel. Over the years, celebrities, as well as savvy travelers, have called it home. It has never been ostentatious and remains quietly modest, with a refrained opulence in its demeanor and accoutrements. The Surrey is a gem, and its renovations are impressive. The rooms are nicely appointed, and the decor is subdued modern. The attention to detail is evident. The bathrooms are roomy and have none of my annoyances—except more hooks would be useful. An attractive roof garden is available only to guests and patron members of the neighborhood. This is a perfect place for private meetings, corporate meetings, or just meetings. There is an inviting bar—not too large. The dining is superb at Café Boulud where chef Gavin Kaysen is at the helm. What a talent! Not only did I see his kitchen, but he prepared a sampling for me to taste at the bar. It was late, and a sampling was perfect. The tarte flambée and Alasacian flatbread with delicious toppings were exceptional. The restaurant was crowed, so if you plan to dine here, be sure to make a reservation. The hotel’s halls are an art gallery as there are impressive collections throughout the property. Two of my favorites, Chuck Close and Claes Oldenburg, are displayed. The Spa at the Surrey (646-358-3600) has all the popular treatments as well as some signature ones. Everything is here. Go and enjoy. Call for an appointment.

The Alex 205 E. Forty-Fifth St. 212-867-5100 www.thealexhotel.com

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There are hundreds of hotels in Manhattan, but one of the newest and trendiest is the Alex, which opened in 2004. In 2006 it was awarded four diamonds and became a member of Leading Hotels of the World. Situated on E. Forty-Fifth Street, it is centrally located. Designed by David Rockwell, this thirty-three-story tower has 203 guest rooms and suites. The Alex’s motto is “overnight or over time.” The decor is modern but not austere, and the blending of Japanese and American styles is easily discerned. There is a lot to be impressed by at the Alex. One of my favorites is the multiuse furnishings. As the saying goes, they “maximize space and minimize clutter.” Also, the Alex’s signature Business Cart, a fully equipped “office on wheels,” can be brought to your room. It’s sort of an office on demand, and you can get away from the office by just rolling it away. The furnishings are all very creative. The amenities—such as the Frette linens, Frédéric Fekkai bath products, DVD player, and flat-panel television in every living room, bedroom, and bath—only show how focused the owners are on making everything guest friendly. The suites have fully equipped kitchens with state-of-the-art appliances. You can build the best of properties, but it takes a special general manager (GM) to maintain and continually fine-tune; here, the GM, Mary Lou Pollack, does all that with enthusiasm and know-how. In 2007 she won the Frank W. Berkman tourism award for GM of the Year in New York City as well as two other awards. She does her job well. Riingo at the Alex is also Four Diamond. This attractive restaurant, which offers both inside and outside dining, is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner and brunch on weekends. The name Riingo is derived from the Japanese word for “apple.” How smart! New York City is the Big Apple, and the Alex is in New York City! The cuisine is an interesting and delicious mix, and you will find something for everyone of every age. I was impressed by the fact that although Riingo is upscale, it also invites family dining. Enjoying lunch when I was there was a most attractive family, with well-mannered teenagers. Nice to see. The decor in Riingo is modern yet soothing. Although the entire dining area is not huge, it feels larger as it is on two levels. The sensible-size bar and lounge area with floor-to-ceiling windows are on the main level as you enter. Upstairs, referred to as the mezzanine, is another dining area. The eight-seat sushi bar is a favorite.

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The Alex also has a fully equipped fitness center. If you need anything during your stay, your requests will be fulfilled by an attentive staff. It is a normal procedure at the Alex to obtain a guest’s profile. By learning about a guest’s routines and desires, the staff can try to accommodate them on each visit. Arrangements can be made to have the refrigerator stocked on arrival. This special hotel makes its guests feel special. FYI: The sister property of the Alex is the Mark.

The Mark Madison Ave. at Seventy-Seventh St. 212-744-4300 www.themarkhotel.com

This landmark hotel, built in 1927, is from all reports an ultimate in every way. Not a thing is out of place. Jean Georges Vongerichen, the multi-award-winning chef, is at the helm of the restaurants.

Hotel Wales 1295 Madison Ave. 212-876-6000 www.waleshotel.com

To know the Hotel Wales reveals either that you are a New Yorker from the Upper East Side or that you know a real New Yorker. This charming property opened in 1902 as the small but upscale Hotel Chastaigneray. It went through several changes, and in 1940 it became the Hotel Wales. Recent renovations were completed in 2003. I can attest to the Hotel Wales as being a charmer with a delightful ambiance and most attractive rooms. The room I stayed in was just right, with sensible furnishing and all the in-room appointments you could need. The Belgian cotton bed linens were wonderfully crisp, and the bathroom, albeit small, was as white as white can be. I liked the wooden Venetian blinds on the windows, and the moldings and door trims were impressive. The touches of fresh flowers and plants were a delight. My accommodations also had a small sitting area with pullout couch, chairs, and coffee table. It was a perfect room for a family.

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When the Hotel Wales was built, life had a different tempo and perspective. This boutique hotel, as it has been classified in modern terminology, had a presence in the Carnegie Hill area, which was and remains unique. The friendliness of the Hotel Wales is immediately felt as one checks in. No glitz or polyester fills the area. You immediately feel comfortable. There have been many renovations, from the polished marble floors to the fresh wall treatments. On the second floor in the Carnegie Hill room, complimentary espresso, cappuccino, and tea are available twentyfour hours a day. A continental breakfast is also served in this room each morning. The room rates are sensible. The Hotel Wales has a wonderful roof garden with a wide view of Central Park and the surrounding area. Check with the front desk to see if any special events are being held. In the immediate area, you will find a mix of everything—museums, restaurants, boutiques, and so much more. After an eventful day, you can order room service, which is supplied by Sarabeth’s (next door), or you can walk a few steps and eat in at this favorite spot. Spa services are also available. For a little eighty-seven-room hotel, the Hotel Wales gives a lot to each guest. To stay there is to promise yourself a delightful experience. Driving Diva Factoid: Andrew Carnegie built his home on Ninety-First Street and Fifth Avenue. His home is now the Cooper-Hewitt Museum (details below). People and proprietors followed the prominent gentleman to this neighborhood, which remains one of the most sophisticated, aristocratic, and charming in New York City.

Le Parker Meridien 119 W. Fifty-Sixth St. 212-245-5000 www.parkermeridien.com

This busy hotel in a very convenient area advertises “ergonomically inspired rooms and suites.” “Ergonomic” means designed for comfort, efficiency, safety, and ease. There are 730 such rooms. The cherry and cedar woods, overall decor, and amenities are all well done and definitely

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not glitzy. My modern room was appealing, and there is no question that it was well thought out. There are two hotel restaurants: Norma’s, named by New York Magazine as the “Best Breakfast in New York,” and The Burger Joint.

Marriott Marquis 1535 Broadway 212-398-1900 www.marriott.com

This impressive and glitzy Broadway hotel is bright and bustling. Not having stayed in one of its rooms, I can only surmise that the hotel is up to Marriott par. I have experienced the View Lounge, New York City’s only revolving cocktail lounge on the forty-eighth floor, above the restaurant on the forty-seventh. My literary agent took me there originally, and I enjoyed the uniqueness. Subsequently, I took my vivacious, young-at-heart, eightysome-year-old mother without telling her about the revolving aspect. What laughs we had! This exceptional, unique lounge revolves very slowly, and the views of Manhattan over to New Jersey are fantastic. Go and enjoy.

RESTAURANTS

“21” 21 W. Fifty-Second St. 800-721-2582 (CLUB) www.21club.com

There are many landmark restaurants in New York, but few are as unique, exemplary, and celebrated as “21.” This restaurant was founded by two cousins, Jack Kriendler and Charlie Berns. Both passed away at relatively early ages, but not without passing on one of the most famous and fabulous restaurants in New York, if not in the world. The history of “21” reads like a mix of encyclopedia data and a Mickey Spillane novel. Once upon a time, during Prohibition, it was a speakeasy. The establishment experienced several raids—they weren’t the only ones!—but due to creativity and ingenuity, “21” escaped having anything

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pinned on them. How did they escape? On the first word of a raid, a clever system of pulleys and levers swept the bottles from the bar shelves, and the smashed remains were sent down a shoot into the New York City sewer system. (Could this have contributed to making New York City’s water [as some say] some of the best?) During this clandestinely wicked time, the famous secret wine cellar was built. Today, it is not only a wine cellar but a room for private parties. Actually, this cellar is not in “21” but in Building 19. To gain entrance into the cellar, the famous two-ton brick door is opened as they did when being raided during Prohibition, by inserting a length of wire—some bios call it a slender 18-inch meat skewer—into a certain brick with a tiny hole to release the lock lever on the other side. Illegality breeds all sorts of creativity! Pulleys and levers and a meat skewer key! Would it work today? The cognoscenti know that “21” is named for its address: 21 W. FiftySecond Street. The decor and ambiance of this famed restaurant are those of a private club. The restaurant’s emblem is the jockeys by the front door. The “21” history is a fabulous read—be it gossip, actual observations, past and present true facts, or cinema trivia, such as which movies were filmed at “21.” Then there are the star facts; for instance, Lauren Bacall and Humphrey Bogart became engaged at table 30. Regardless, “21” facts are fascinating. To enter “21,” you walk down a few steps, which, to me, adds to the character. A very savvy host greets, directs, and escorts you to your table. The pulse of “21” is in the Bar Room. Representatives of practically every recognizable, presentable walk of life have been in this room. The handsome mahogany bar on the south wall is one of the places to rendezvous, be it for professional business or monkey business. The tables are small, private islands for formal discussions, friendly chats, or just fascinating people watching. The Bar Room is also well known for its decorations, which are attached to the ceiling. They are toys, memorabilia from the world of sports, and gifts to “21.” There is also Upstairs at “21” on the second floor, a very private, thirty-two-seat enclave. Most attractive murals of New York decorate the walls. The menus at “21” are exceptional. To elaborate would require more pages than the publisher will allow. The famous “21” hamburger in 1950

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cost $2.75. Prices have changed! Suffice it to say, you will enjoy, savor, and remember dining at “21.” How fortunate for the “21” legacy that in 1995 James Sherwood, owner of Orient-Express Hotels, purchased the club, which celebrated its eightieth birthday in 2010. Here’s to the next eighty. Note: When dining at “21,” parking is $5.

P. J. Clarke’s 915 Third Ave. 212-317-1616 www.pjclarkes.com

This modest, 120-year-old building on the corner of Fifty-Fifth Street is a true landmark. It is an icon, a star. Though dwarfed by huge skyscrapers, it has kept its place despite modernization all around. P. J. Clarke’s has held fast, and all who know this joint are proud. You immediately feel its ambiance as soon as you walk through the front door. Whether it is the Irish touches or the smell of delicious food from the back, you are glad to be at P. J. Clarke’s. The main dining areas are in the middle room and the larger back room. The menu is on a mammoth chalkboard. The prices are sensible. I look forward to one of their chopped steaks with mushroom gravy. There are many other items to choose from, and they do know how to make a drink. Food is served till 3 a.m., and the bar stays open until 4 a.m. (a tiny clue about one aspect of P. J. Clarke’s!).

Trattoria Dell’Arte 900 Seventh Ave. 212-245-9800 www.trattoriadellarte.com

What a vibrant, bright restaurant! It is attractive with a clientele that represents an eclectic mix of everyday and influential people. You will probably recognize a celebrity or two or more—but no autograph requests please. The food is delicious. I discovered that the antipasto bar is the largest in New York. There is nothing petite about the servings or this very Tuscany-inspired and -decorated restaurant. I am always impressed with

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the pleasant and prompt service. At the end of your meal, you are served a big tray with an array of small goodies, be they chocolate-chip cookies, a tiny cake, or a piece of something that is very hard to resist. The prices are sensible. Trattoria Dell’Arte is a delightful experience where good food and smiles abound.

Table d’Hôte 44 E. Ninety-Second St. 212-348-8125

Located just off of Madison Avenue, this tiny—and I do mean tiny, as there are twelve tables total—restaurant is chic, cozy, and cuisine good. Chef Vivek Bandhu and his staff are efficient, quick, and friendly. This most pleasant spot is not pricey. I applaud a restaurant that offers half glasses of wine and half portions of an entrée. Table d’Hôte is excellent. You will enjoy.

Luca Restaurant 1712 First Ave. 212-987-9260

This neighborhood favorite is convenient and always friendly. You will find couples, singles, and families. You don’t feel crowded even when every table is filled. The à la carte menu is good, but the bill adds up quickly. An excellent prix fixe option is not to be overlooked and is very tasty as well.

Tavern on the Green Central Park at W. Sixty-Seventh St. 212-873-3200

Tavern on the Green was once a happening place and a unique oasis located in the one-and-only Central Park. You felt as if you were in a fantasyland as you settled in for a most special time. This is all history, but I’ll reflect for a minute about this special place. As a native New Yorker, I have known Tavern on the Green forever. Many years ago I had my first on-site experience, and with subsequent visits I can say that I was never disappointed. The food was always good, the ambiance exceptional, and the dancing under the stars magnificent. The

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menu could be classified as moderate to almost expensive. Tavern on the Green sat over one thousand guests in its six dining rooms. The last time I was there, my escort and I arrived in a New York City horse and buggy, and we danced and enjoyed the atmosphere. Tavern on the Green was shuttered in January 2010 for reasons too involved to go into here. Suffice it to say, negotiations floundered. Mayor Michael Bloomberg announced that the spot must be put to use and that it would become a visitors center and snack bar. Driving Diva Factoid: It is interesting to note that Tavern on the Green was originally built in 1870 to house sheep. In 1934 it became a restaurant, but it was not until famed restaurateur Warner LeRoy took over in 1974 and invested $10 million dollars that this sheep house was transformed into the famed establishment. I have been informed it was the highestgrossing independently owned restaurant in the United States, with annual revenues of over $40 million, thanks to the over half million visitors each year. I hope some of you readers enjoyed the fantasy, the magic that only a restaurant enveloped by New York City’s Central Park could create.

Carino 1710 Second Ave. 212-860-0566

If you want a touch of real Italy with Sicilian specialties and wonderful, old-world Mama, the owner, to greet you, then Carino should be high on your list. It is small in size but big in atmosphere and delicious food. I adore this little place. Mama, a no-guff lady who makes you feel welcome, is quick to offer her homemade selection of the night. Even if Mama is not on-site, she has trained her staff well, and they do it just as Mama would. Prices are very sensible.

Vespa 1625 Second Ave. 212-472-2050

I found this restaurant on a cool spring night with a friend as we walked and wondered where we should eat. In the middle of a block, we stopped

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outside Vespa, looked inside, and motioned to the people seated by the window to give us a thumbs-up or -down. We received a thumbs-up. They turned out to be right. Upon entering, we squished our way by the smiling crowd at the bar, and miraculously, in spite of the crowd, we were seated in the next room. The two-top table must have been waiting for us. There is a totally upbeat atmosphere here. Our server greeted us almost immediately, and bread was placed on the table. The shared salad was crisp and delicious, and the two main courses were exceptional. The contents of the chosen bottle of wine (which was above average) vanished as we ate, then we sipped the perfectly brewed decaf coffee. FYI: Food is served until midnight and drinks until 2 a.m. There is a charming outdoor garden.

Pio Pio 1746 First Ave. 212-426-5800 www.piopionyc.com

I doubt if I were just walking by, I would have noticed Pio Pio. A friend brought me, and I found the food different—not objectionable—in this small South American–fare restaurant. I was unsure about what to order and, of course, defaulted to the recommended Peruvian rotisserie chicken. I discovered that it had been marinated for twelve hours in cumin, garlic, Peruvian beer, and other secret ingredients. It was alright, and the side dishes and drinks were also different, but enjoyably so. Only wine and beer are available.

Sarabeth’s Kitchen 1295 Madison Ave. 212-410-7335 www.sarabeth.com

There is also a Sarabeth’s on Fifty-Seventh Street and Central Park, two more at the Whitney Museum and Chelsea Market, the original on Amsterdam at Eightieth Street, and one in Key West, Florida. I would bet that

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they all have the same excellent fare. Each has a bakery, so taking home a Sarabeth delight is a delight. In 1981, the energetic Sarabeth Levine, with a $100 investment, ventured into the world of gourmet marmalades and, as the saying goes, “The rest is history.” She uses a secret family recipe, which includes only the best fruit. Her store became an instant success, and the restaurants soon followed. I have always enjoyed eating at Sarabeth’s, but I suggest that you not be in a rush. The Madison Avenue restaurant is a bit noisy, and waiting for a table is the norm. Regardless, the waiting is worth your while. Your experience will be joyfully delicious. Reservations are definitely a good idea, or just arrive when the doors open. The prices are moderate (New York City normal), and the atmosphere is bright. From my observations, there is a trendy neighborhood following for Sarabeth’s.

Barbaresco 843 Lexington Ave. 212-517-2288

This is a convenient spot to enjoy a drink or eats after a day of shopping in the area. To start off my experience at Barbaresco, I had one of the best vodka gimlets I have ever had. Probably any alcohol would have tasted good as I had been delayed in the Lincoln Tunnel due to a major traffic accident and was late arriving to meet my classmate and her husband. This is not a large restaurant, but it is delightful in atmosphere, and everything I tasted was delicious. The selections are sensibly priced, and the waiter most attentive. From my one visit, I recommend this attractive restaurant, and I look forward to going back. I am certain you will enjoy.

Lumi 963 Lexington Ave. 212-570-2335 www.luminyc.com

This is an absolutely delightful restaurant. Hido Holli and Lumi Hadri, the talented husband-and-wife team, serve a superb array of fantastic Italian selections. The food and ambiance are enhanced by the fact that you

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are dining in an attractive townhouse properly appointed with chandeliers, fireplaces, and paintings. The enthusiasm of all involved is immediately perceived. Aside from the very delicious fare, I liked the fact that everyone was dressed properly for an evening of delicious dining. The prices are respectable. Lumi should not be missed.

Stage Delicatessen 834 Seventh Ave. 800-782-4369 (STAGENY) www.stagedeli.com

This is a real deli with true New York City flair, and I consider it a Manhattan landmark. The food is delicious, and you will probably sight a Broadway star, a media personality, or a politico. The main prerequisite for going to the Stage is to be hungry, very hungry. The sandwiches are huge and stacked high. The meats are the finest, the breads fresh, and the pickles great. The sandwiches are named after celebrities. The world-famous cheese blintzes and the strawberry shortcake are fabulous. The Stage Deli was started in 1937 by the quick-witted Max Asnas who, though sometimes considered gruff, became the toast of Broadway regardless. Max has passed on, but his legacy has not faltered. The Stage is not fancy, but it is absolutely delicious, and you must go. But I warn you, go hungry.

Nectar 82 Restaurant 1090 Madison Ave. 212-772-0916

This is a real coffee shop open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

E.A.T. 1064 Madison Ave. 212-772-0022 www.elizabar.com

Owned by Eli Zabar, this is a sandwich shop, a bakery, a coffeehouse, a deli, a market, and a gift store all in one. This type of work and enterprise is in Zabar’s genes. His parents founded the landmark Zabar’s Delicatessen on the West Side. Be sure to stop at E.A.T.; enjoy, rest, and take home some of the wonderful breads. Also, this entrepreneur has an unbelievable

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two-story market at 1411 Third Ave. and the Vinegar Factory at 431 E. Ninety-First St. Mr. Eli Z. probably doesn’t remember, but when I was opening The Food and Fun Shop in Millbrook, New York, he was just establishing himself on Madison Avenue. He was most helpful. I was grateful.

Papaya King 179 E. Eighty-Sixth St. 212-369-0648 www.papayaking.com

A business success and a fortune from papaya—now that is something. In 1923, alone and penniless, sixteen-year-old Gus Poulos arrived from Athens, Greece, possessing only drive and determination. He obtained a job in a deli in New York’s Yorkville neighborhood, and within three years he bought the business. Soon after the business flourished, and he was able to take his first real vacation to Florida. There, he was immersed in the native fresh fruits, which he missed dearly after he returned to New York. And so, fruit became Gus’s next endeavor. He hired waitresses and put them in colorful Hawaiian attire to hand out free fruit drinks. A fruit drink fad was born! Lines began to form at Gus’s, and he received the nickname “Papaya King.” His first store on Eighty-Sixth and Third is still there. By the 1950s, Papaya King’s fame had spread from coast to coast and even around the world. Gus passed away in 1988, but his family has maintained his place in history. The price, flavors, and nostalgia are all just right.

York Grill 1690 York Ave. 212-772-0261

To find a smart, sophisticated, well-decorated, friendly restaurant with an excellent menu is always a delight. York Grill is all that and more. The Greco brothers, Tony, Charles, and Donnie, are responsible for this neighborhood eatery. Chef Joel Reiss absolutely knows his trade, and each item is perfectly prepared. I had been traveling all day and decided to order a light pasta dish. It was delicious. My dining companion had crusted halibut, and that was also delicious. The breads were tempting and not heavy. Service

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was excellent. Instead of dessert, we had a Moscadoro Piemonte Muscato, a sweet wine—the perfect finish to a perfect meal. One could call the menu “American fusion” with continental flairs. Reservations are recommended. I noticed many were eating at the bar in the front of the restaurant. From my observations, this is a friendly place. Every Sunday there is a brunch from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. The meal comes with your choice of champagne, a mimosa, or a Bloody Mary. When I’m in New York City, the York Grill brunch is always on my must-do list.

Pinocchio Ristorante 1748 First Ave. (between Ninetieth and Ninety-First streets) 212-828-5810

This small ristorante is without a doubt big in service, menu selections, and atmosphere. The food prices range from approximately $9.50 to $24.50. Mark and Regina are the owners, and their know-how and exuberance are undeniable.

Grand Central Eateries 87 E. Forty-Second St. www.grandcentralterminal.com

There are more than twenty eateries on the dining concourse, and practically every type of cuisine is offered. A sampling follows: • • • • • • •

Cipriani Dolci Junior’s Restaurant Métrazur Michael Jordan’s The Steak House N.Y.C. Oyster Bar & Restaurant Two Boots Zócalo

Ted’s Montana Grill Time-Life Building, 110 W. Fifty-First St. 212-245-5220 www.tedsmontanagrill.com

Any restaurant that states, “Eat Great. Do Good,” definitely has the right mantra and is the place to dine. Ted Turner, the environmentalist

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always in the forefront of promoting climate control, wildlife protection, nuclear, chemical, and biological awareness, and in general a better world, started Ted’s Montana Grill. His partner, George McKerrow Jr., and he have, as of this writing, opened fifty-five “Eat Great. Do Good” restaurants. They feature menus printed on recycled paper, and recycled brown paper covers the tables, obviating the need to wash tablecloths. Coca-Cola is served in recyclable glass bottles. (It tastes so much better that way!) To-go cups look like plastic but are actually made from cornstarch. Biodegradable Boraxo soap is used, and each restaurant is nonsmoking. Driving Diva Factoid: I adore this next one: paper straws! When was the last time you sipped from a paper straw? Ted’s Montana Grill’s drinking straws are made with a special wax-coated paper. Note: A factory founded in 1833 invented the paper straw. The factory had all but closed, but it still had the old machinery. When asked if it could possibly make paper straws, the factory devised several prototypes and finally created an ecofriendly, polymer-coated straw that stays sturdy in liquid for up to two hours. Ted’s Montana Grill ordered 5.2 million straws in 2007 and more in 2008. Aardvark Paper Drinking Straws is back in business producing straws for many companies. Thank you, Ted’s Montana Grill. We are so overused to plastic that we forget how nice nonplastic is!

At the restaurant, the decor is western throughout, accented with exceptional western art, a large bison’s head on the wall, and western tunes playing quietly in the background. There is an open kitchen and an inviting bar. Before you decide to have a beverage, be aware of Big Sky Wines, which are exclusive to Ted’s Montana Grill. The one I enjoyed was excellent. Now for the really important subject: the food. Everything is fresh and made from scratch. Nothing is microwaved or boiled in a bag. Nothing is artificial. The meats—the bison, beef, chicken, and pork—are all natural, and, of course, the fish is absolutely fresh. I enjoyed a tiny sampling from the chef as a starter. A morsel of bison pot roast was perfect. The salt-and-pepper onion rings were good, and the

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bison meatloaf was excellent. The real meal arrived. The bison strip was good, the asparagus was just right, the creamy spinach was good (maybe a bit too creamy), and the sweet potato was filling but also good. It was truly all good, good, good, and good. The breads are warm and tasty. Driving Diva “Slides”: I was convinced to try a Bar None Slider. Two arrived. A “slider” is a mini burger. I chose the bison slider on a warm yeast roll. It was fantastically delicious! Don’t let a slider slide away! If bison can melt in one’s mouth, then that is what I experienced with this bison slider. I was “oversampled” with food and took one slider home. Real test: I heated it and enjoyed it for breakfast. It was still juicy.

My dessert was again a small sampling: fudge brownie, key lime pie, apple cobbler, and one of each of their featured fresh-baked, “scratch” cookies: snickerdoodle, oatmeal, raisin, chocolate chip, and peanut butter. Ice cream is available. Rarely can one say this in New York City or any big city, but the prices at Ted’s Montana Grill are sensible and, considering the entire experience, almost a big bargain. Also important: This is a restaurant where a female can dine alone or a family can bring the children—there is a children’s menu—and all are comfortable. Driving Diva’s No Beef about Bison: Bison is not so thick in body or flavor. It is gentler and not so filling. Bison is higher in iron and protein and has less cholesterol and sodium and fewer calories per ounce than chicken. Just don’t overcook it! Addendum: Any restaurant that has on its menu Coke floats, malts, shakes, and Barq’s root beer floats is doing something right. Lots right! Thank you, Ted Turner.

Ted’s Montana Grill is a chain, but know that the man himself and his partner are overseeing everything. Also realize that you are not getting froufrou presentations. You get what I describe above. Did I find a hiccup? Two very minor ones at the New York City restaurant. The awning outside

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should be more prominent; I don’t mean flashier, but perhaps bolder. The ladies’ room needed a bit of attention and sprucing up on the evening I was there—which could just be a “that night” glitch. I spoke with several friends who have dined at Ted’s Montana Grill in Florida, Rhode Island, and the Washington, DC, area, and their review is, “It’s quite acceptable.” As I cross the country, you may be certain I will have a listing of Ted’s Montana Grills and review as I go coast to coast. I will probably gain weight and will, if I have the courage, apply for a job on one of Mr. T’s ranches to work off a bit of bison.

SHOPPING Few places in the world have shopping like New York City. From the ultimate to the trendy to the thrifty to the pseudo to the bargains to the junk, it can all be found here. Most everything is presented well. If you want a luxurious, vicarious thrill, then the Fifty-Seventh Street area of Fifth Avenue is the place to go.

Tiffany & Co. 727 Fifth Ave. 212-755-8000 www.tiffany.com

Tiffany & Co. is a four-story jewelry box. The jewels on the first floor are exquisite. The china and silver upstairs are beautiful. Go and look, even if you don’t buy.

Bergdorf Goodman 754 Fifth Ave. (at Fifty-Eighth St.) 212-872-2526 www.bergdorfgoodman.com

Simply and accurately put, this is a beautiful store. The seventh floor— my favorite—has gifts, antiques, old hotel ware, old ship items, books, and stationery. The fashion floors are exquisite, but some of the fashions are

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over the top and designed for petite women. Also on the seventh floor is the BG Restaurant (212-872-8977), a pricey, in spot. Everything is expensive at Bergdorf’s . . . but it is a wonderful store, and a long visit can be very therapeutic. Driving Diva Factoid: There is a spacious ladies’ room on the seventh floor.

Van Cleef & Arpels 744 Fifth Ave. 877-826-2533 www.vancleef-arpels.com

On Fifth Avenue next to Bergdorf Goodman, this ultra jewelry store is famous for its jewels worn by celebrities over the years. It costs nothing to look. Just visit their official website. It’s magnificent.

Cartier 653 Fifth Ave. 212-446-3400 www.cartier.com

Ultrabeautiful is their jewelry. Visit this special Fifty-Second Street gem. One year at Christmas, visiting Cartier, I, for various reasons, tried on a large canary diamond ring. Oh my! It was a perfect fit. The sales person cheered, “Omen!” I had simply planned to check out a Cartier rolling ring that has been popular since my school days. This signature ring is feminine but sporty and supposedly makes a statement—if making a statement is your goal. See this signature ring about which some say, “Its audacious simplicity is a cult jewel.” It is now called the Trinity ring. Look carefully, and enjoy all that Cartier has displayed. Driving Diva Suggestion: With comfortable footwear, venture along FiftySeventh Street from First to Seventh avenues. Visit the boutiques and upscale stores, art galleries, restaurants, and more—even if you’re only window peeking.

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Madison Avenue Madison Avenue has unequaled boutiques, and just window shopping will make your eyes pop. For the serious, start at Fifty-Seventh Street, and try to make your way up to Ninety-Sixth Street.

Steuben 667 Madison Ave. 212-752-1441 www.steuben.com

This is not only Steuben’s flagship store but a museum of sorts. Steuben is synonymous with some of the most exemplary and exceptional glass ever created. Surrounded by Steuben glass displayed on three levels, one feels a sense of serenity; yet, realizing how these masterpieces were made also leaves you in awe. Put a piece of Steuben in a empty room, on a table, or in a display cabinet, and it will make a statement. Visit the Steuben store, and see for yourself.

Ralph Lauren 867 Madison Ave. 212-606-2100 www.ralphlauren.com

This is one of my favorite stores to visit and shop in. Items are pricey, but they are superb and make a statement. Walk through this building slowly to take in its magnificence. Originally a private home commissioned in 1895 by Gertrude Rhinelander Waldo, it was one of the largest private residences in New York City. The beautiful house is an eclectic mix of motifs, each impressive in its own way. Mrs. Waldo, a bit impetuous and eccentric, never lived here, and the collection of items purchased in her worldly travels remained in cartons unopened. Upon her death, there were unpaid taxes and a lot of brouhaha, and before long the bank owned the magnificent mansion. After many months of bank and lawyer back-andforth, the building was subdivided, with apartments upstairs and stores on the first floor. Only a handful of people could and would do this mansion justice, in toto, the present owner being one—Ralph Lauren. In the mid-1980s, the mansion became the flagship “residence” of Polo/Ralph Lauren. (“Shop” and “store” are too trite to use in this con-

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text.) What a perfect marriage of the ultra fashion designer, lifestyle innovator, and businessman extraordinaire with the ultra mansion.

Guild Antiques II 1089 Madison Ave. 212-717-1810 1095 Madison Ave. 212-472-0830 www.guildantiques.com

Mr. Rich told me it is his family business started in 1978. The collection of antiques, English porcelains, Chinese exports, and so much more will not disappoint.

Blue Tree 1283 Madison Ave. 212-369-2583 (BLUE) www.bluetreeny.com

This unique store’s motto is “No Place Like Blue Tree,” and I agree. Phoebe Cates and her group created and manage Blue Tree, and they, like their wares, are special. Know that you will find only the unusual here, and many items are one of a kind. Until I checked the store’s website, I didn’t know what an oyas was—it’s a necklace of crocheted flowers—or how much I might need one (if I sell enough books!). They’re not inexpensive, but what a conversation piece! An oyas would look great in many ways. This is a fun shop for many reasons. Go!

Shopping the scavenger way in New York City • Cancer Care on Third Avenue and Eighty-Fifth Street has lots of treasures and a friendly staff. • On Third Avenue between Eighty-Fifth and Seventy-Ninth streets, there are several wonderful thrift shops. • Visit the Memorial Sloan-Kettering Thrift Shop at Eighty-Fourth Street and Third Avenue. • Check out the Spence Chapin Thrift Shop at Second Avenue and Ninety-Fifth Street and also at Third Avenue between Eighty-Third and Eighty-Fourth streets.

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• The National Council of Jewish Women Thrift Shop is between Second and Third avenues on Eighty-Fourth Street. • Housing Works Thrift Shop on Second Avenue at Ninetieth Street deserves a checking. Housing Works has five other shops too.

Encore 1132 Madison Ave. 212-879-2858 www.encoreresale.com

This grandmother of New York City consignment shops has been in business since 1954. The first upscale resale shop in the United States, Encore is well organized and thoroughly clean. It has a wonderful mix of exquisite clothes for day, evening, or night. Everything sells at a fraction of its original cost.

Designer Resale 324 and 322 E. Eighty-First St. 212-734-3639 www.designerresaleconsignment.com

Although it has a large selection of upscale clothing for women and men, I found the shop a bit pricey.

MUSEUMS, BUILDINGS, LANDMARKS, AND GENERAL DISCOVERIES The New York City museums are exceptional. I counted over eighty-five when I Googled “museums.” Here are a few that I recommend as musts:

Metropolitan Museum of Art 1000 Fifth Ave. (at Eighty-Second St.) 212-535-7710 www.metmuseum.org

Museum of Natural History Central Park West (at Seventy-Ninth St.) 212-769-5606 www.amnh.org

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Museum of Modern Art (MOMA) 11 W. Fifty-Third St. (between Fifth and Sixth avenues) 212-708-9400 www.moma.org

Whitney Museum of American Art 945 Madison Ave. (at Seventy-Fifth St.) 212-570-3676 www.whitney.org

Cooper-Hewitt 2 E. Ninety-First St. (at Fifth Ave.) 212-849-8386 www.cooperhewitt.org

Museum of the City of New York 1220 Fifth Ave. 212-534-1672 www.mcny.org

Guggenheim 1071 Fifth Ave. 212-423-3500 www.guggenheim.org

Museum of Television and Radio 25 W. Fifty-Second St. 212-621-6600 www.paleycenter.org

Frick 1 E. Seventieth St. (between Madison and Fifth avenues) 212-628-4417 www.frick.org

Southstreet Seaport Pier 17, Lower Manhattan 212-732-8257 www.southstreetseaport.com

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This outdoor, indoor, everything place has events, shops, and restaurants. There are exhibits of all varieties as well as cruises to take. The seaport has cobblestone streets, so comfortable shoes are a must. In the early morning, there is no doubt that you are near Fulton’s Fish Market. The best time to arrive at the seaport is around 11 a.m. Tip: I had a wonderful time getting on a bus around Eighty-Fifth Street and riding all the way down to the seaport. I was told it would take me way over an hour and that I was crazy not to take the subway. Undaunted, the next day I climbed aboard the York Avenue bus. The nice and informative bus driver told me I should transfer to an M15 South Ferry Limited. This done, I settled into my window seat with a notepad and a real motion picture to watch as I traveled. What a fabulous bus ride! And it took only forty-two minutes. What did I see? I saw restaurants of every ethnic variety as well as some of questionable format. I saw drugstores, churches, apartment buildings, parks, colorful and elaborate graffiti, and grocery stores also of all ethnic varieties. Then, as the bus turned, there were many tiny streets to view for a second before I arrived in Chinatown. On this ride I saw two places that I share with you.

New York’s Best Egg Cream Second Avenue and Eighth Street (Since I saw this place from the bus, I only know the avenue and street. Take the bus and discover!)

FYI: An egg cream is an ice-cream soda without the ice cream. It can be one of the most refreshing and delicious drinks.

Professor Thom’s Restaurant 219 Second Ave. 212-260-9480 www.professorthoms.com

Professor Thom’s evoked a special feeling. It wasn’t fancy, with its maroon front, but on Googling it, I didn’t find a single bad or iffy review. Ratings are from four to five stars. It is a sports bar, and the prices are very

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reasonable. I’ll wager that there won’t be any saucy confetti designs on the plate, but there will be good food and smiles.

ONLY IN THE BIG APPLE

Trump Tower 721 Fifth Ave. (at Fifty-Sixth St.) www.trump.com

This distinctive, sixty-eight-story, mixed-use building is magnificent. It has shops, cafes, and an impressive waterfall with a pedestrian bridge that crosses over the waterfall’s pool. There is a large skylight. Purportedly, Donald Trump lives in the triplex penthouse, which is valued at $50 million. There are perks when you own the building. Forbes magazine in 2006 valued the building at $318 million. You will be impressed. It would be hard not to be—especially when you study how the building was designed and constructed.

Carnegie Hall 881 Seventh Ave. (at Fifty-Seventh St.) 212-247-7800 www.carnegiehall.org

In this baronial building, excellence is seen, and you will not forget the experience. Call for performance schedules. Memory Lane: I was very young. I was a member of Anita Zahn’s Duncan dance class (Isadora Duncan). The dance class recital was presented in Carnegie Hall. I remember the huge stage and Leon Barzan conducting the orchestra. Dancing barefoot on that wooden stage was more impressive in my memory than probably at the actual time. It is a wonderful memory.

Steinway Hall 109 W. Fifty-Seventh St. 212-246-1100 www.steinwayhall.com

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Anyone who has taken piano lessons or even played “Chopsticks” must visit this beautiful center for the finest pianos. These Steinway instruments are masterpieces—works of art. The hall itself is beautiful. Just walk in and immerse yourself in the splendor.

Empire State Building 350 Fifth Ave. (at Thirty-Fourth St.) 212-736-3100 www.empirestatebuilding.com

The Empire State Building is a one-of-a-kind edifice of beauty. There is an admission fee and an additional charge to go onto the observation deck. There are also restrictions as to the size of bags you can carry. If spending the coins does not suit, then at least go into the building and walk around. Admission begins at 8 a.m., and the last elevator is at 11:15 p.m.

Statue of Liberty Liberty Island 877-523-9849 (LADY-TIX) www.statueofliberty.org

The Statue of Liberty is operated under the auspices of the National Park Service. Go, see, and experience this fantastic lady.

MISCELLANEOUS

CBS’s The Early Show “The Early Show” Plaza at Fifty-Ninth St. and Fifth Ave. 212-975-2515 www.cbsnews.com/sections/earlyshow/main500202.shtml

Be an early riser and go see all the activity. The outdoor studio is at Fifth Avenue and Fifty-Ninth Street. No tickets are needed. You can possibly be near the cast and chat with the exuberant, wonderful weatherman. What a way to start your day, and it’s free! After The Early Show you can visit FAO Schwartz.

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FAO Schwartz Fifth Ave. and Fifty-Eighth St. 800-426-8697 www.fao.com

This famed toy store has been in business since 1862. Although it has downsized, you are certain to find something for children of all ages. Further down on Fifth Avenue is Rockefeller Center, a city unto itself.

Rockefeller Center Forty-Eighth to Fifty-First streets and Fifth to Sixth avenues 212-632-3975

Take a tour if possible. If you enter at 30 Rockefeller Plaza (the entrance facing the ice-skating rink), be sure to look up at the ceiling mural of Atlas. Focus on his head as you walk from the left side to the right. Watch out! Someone is watching you. You can eat, shop, and tour all at this famous plaza.

The Today Show Studio 1A, Rockefeller Center 212-664-4444

Here’s another way to start off your day: watch The Today Show from its new stage out on the Plaza. Sylvester “Pat” Weaver, a true creative genius in the early days of television, “invented” The Today Show, which first aired in 1952. Many of his shows and concepts are still in play. Special Experience: For several years, I was a lifestyle contributor on The Today Show. It was a wonderful and awesome experience.

ABC’s Good Morning America Forty-Fourth St. and Broadway (Times Square) 800-221-7386

Visit Good Morning America’s new studios at Times Square. To be part of the inside audience, you must call the network or visit the website

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(http://abcnews.go.com/GMA). If you want to be part of the outside audience, then just wake up early and get to Forty-Fourth Street and Broadway. Chaotic, colorful, contagious, and corrupting Broadway is a must-see. It is walkable from Fifty-Seventh Street, but taking the bus is a sensible alternative. As you explore Broadway, see the Ed Sullivan Theater.

Ed Sullivan Theater 1697 Broadway (between Fifty-Third and Fifty-Fourth streets) 212-247-6497

The Ed Sullivan Theater is now home to The Late Show with David Letterman, for which tickets are required if you decide to go.

Personal Note: I have a very special feeling for this theater since I was the youngest—or close to it—assistant producer for Kodak on the Ed Sullivan Show. Back then, live TV was really live and wonderfully unpredictable; nothing would be aired if the censor had not approved it. There were clothing and neckline regulations. The performing elephants would often leave their “calling card” while on air. Brooms were ever ready. Oh, the stories I can relate. This is a beautiful theater inside and out. I recently went back and walked around my original TV site. Indeed, it is a stately theater with the original architecture, although some has been covered—but not removed. The modernization is in the electronics, which were very visible when I was in the present-day control room. Get tickets for The Late Show with David Letterman. You will enjoy.

I recommend two other sensible ways to see the city:

Gray Line Tours (Bus) 1560 Broadway 212-445-0848 www.grayline.com

Circle Line Sightseeing Cruises Pier 83 (at West Forty-Second St.)

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212-563-3200 www.circleline42.com

AREAS NEAR THE BIG APPLE Long Island There is no question that Long Island is no longer a quiet area of farmed fields, duck farms, and quaint villages with the ocean just a stone’s throw away. Getting there from New York City can be a hassle as well, especially on a summer weekend. A few precious enclaves remain, particularly the Hamptons. Travel during off-hours as the Long Island Expressway is a bear at rush hour.

Upstate New York If you have a car, take a drive on the Taconic Parkway, which is beautiful but, I warn you, full of curves. Dutchess County (where I lived for many years) has become very popular due to its proximity to New York City. The beautiful countryside and great homes are also attractions. Many acres of the old estates have been sold off. Modern homes have been built, but they do seem to blend with the old. Millbrook has become more readily recognized compared to when it was a quiet, upscale village. Equestrian pursuits and hunting are among the most popular hobbies. There are restaurants, vineyards, bed-andbreakfasts, and more. Clinton Corners, just a hill or two away, is charming. I adored living in Millbrook and Clinton Corners—except when I was waiting for the snowplow. Millerton (I lived there too) is nice and very friendly. At first glance, you might think it not particularly tuned up. It is not a showy place, and the natives as well as the weekenders like it that way. These areas are an easy drive—and not far—from New York City. Make the trip. You will enjoy.

Culinary Institute of America 1946 Campus Drive (Route 9), Hyde Park

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845-471-6608 www.ciachef.edu

Student chefs and teachers run and oversee a fantastic restaurant. I definitely recommend going there. Make a reservation and enjoy.

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NEW JERSEY

his small Garden State is a mix of rolling hills, flatlands, waterways, rural and congested areas, beautiful beaches, and so forth and so on. Due to its proximity to New York City, people often live in New Jersey and work in Manhattan. Some of the most prestigious colleges and major corporations are in New Jersey. It is a nice state, and you can often tell New Jerseyites by their accent. New Jersey has a lot to offer, but the Garden State Parkway needs major tuning and totally new signage. I found out that I am not alone in these thoughts. The New Jersey Turnpike has expensive tolls, but the travel is good.

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NEW JERSEY SHORE About sixty minutes from Manhattan, there is a string of small seashore towns with a diverse population. The unifying factor is that they are beautifully situated on the Atlantic Ocean. For years, these little towns were summer getaways for the more affluent. You would see the summer crowds dressed to the nines. Hotels for the summer guests were many and varied. These hotels were truly just summer hotels that closed in the winter. I first visited this summer getaway when I was around three years old. Many small photos reveal that my mother was trim and attractive, but the

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material in her beach attire would probably make three bathing suits today. Dress was different back then. I have pictures of my tall, handsome father in his white or seersucker suit, a cigarette in his hand, even if the temperature was hot. Dad would arrive on Friday afternoons to spend the weekend with his beloved family. As a teenager summering in New Jersey, I laboriously convinced my mother to allow me to wear blue jeans rolled up to mid-calf. How the fashions have changed—as well as a lot of other things. I have a soft spot in my heart for New Jersey. Each place I enjoyed, and I always cried when the summer was over and we headed back to Manhattan. For this project, I wanted to go back to the Jersey Shore, where I had not been for over thirty years. Revisiting was a trip down nostalgia lane for me. We should all try to visit those places from our youth. Immediately I could see that the Jersey Shore is still very nice, but some areas have succumbed to absolute negligence, and very major tuning needs to be done. The ocean and the beach remain glorious.

OCEAN GROVE Driving into this small, seaside town and down many of the streets where I once rode my bicycle, I noticed the gingerbread decor of the small, colorful dwellings was much the same. This has never been a very fancy town, and everyone is friendly and relaxed. A lot of the cottages are being restored. One of the largest collections of authentic Victorian architecture in the United States is here. The town has the honor of being on the National Register of Historic Places. In 1869 the Ocean Grove Camp Meeting Association was formed. In the Great Auditorium, which has grown over the years and is now the size of a football field, the greatest preachers and evangelists have addressed the congregation. In my teens I heard Billy Graham, and even then could not help but be impressed. Also in the Great Auditorium, one of the world’s largest pipe organs can be heard. There are three main meeting places: the Great Auditorium, the Youth Chapel, and Thornley Chapel.

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In the early years at Ocean Grove, tents were the main housing. Today, there are 114 tent structures around the Great Auditorium. The tents for many families pass from generation to generation. There is a twenty-year waiting list to rent a tent for the summer! By the way, these tents have indoor plumbing and full kitchens. You’re not really roughing it! Ocean Grove is unique, and there is a lot going on.

Laingdon Hotel (B&B) 8 Ocean Ave. 800-775-9568 www.laingdonhotel.com

This hotel, originally built in 1875, was restored in 2004 with appropriate Victorian charm. It is not fancy or upscale. There is only one way to get up the stairs, and that is by foot. There are no elevators. It is really not too bad as there are landings between the sets of steps. The room decor is plain Victorian. There is a mini refrigerator, a modern bathroom, and a working replica telephone in each room, and if you are in one of the ocean rooms, you will also find binoculars. Some rooms even have a gas-burning fireplace. Above the room doors are the original transoms, and the original oak floors have been preserved. Sitting on the porch or upstairs terrace, you will be taken to another era, all the while lolled by the ocean’s music. Breakfast, served on the porch, is casual and pleasant. Prices are moderate. Although a seashore storm looked forthcoming, I decided to take a nostalgic walk. I recommend getting a bicycle and touring Ocean Avenue and its side streets. The distance between many of the seaside towns is perfect for biking. Several hotels supply bicycles. Main Street, the commercial hub of Ocean Grove, has a lot of small shops, which I enjoyed poking around in.

Comfort Zone 44–46 Main Ave. 732-869-9990 www.comfortzoneoceangrove.com

At this shop, I found a pair of candlesticks like some I had received as a wedding present! Of course, I purchased them.

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Nagles Apothecary Café 43 Main Ave. 732-776-9797

Established in 1801, this is a definite meeting spot. Originally a drugstore with a soda fountain, now it is a wonderful café, but the soda fountain remains. I definitely recommend the turkey Reuben sandwich. The prices are very reasonable, and the menu is an absolute winner.

AVON BY THE SEA This Victorian seaside community in Monmouth County is another town to enjoy biking. The beach is beautiful, the houses are pretty, and the area is not too congested.

Main One Marina Inc. 1 Main St. 732-776-5992 maineionemarina.com

At this attractive, clean, full-service marina, individualized professional attention is given to your needs. The dive shop is top-drawer. The owner is a quiet, efficient woman (whom I knew from school days), who obviously runs a good business. I enjoyed visiting this marina. It was impressive, as many marinas are not.

SPRING LAKE Spring Lake is really just as I remember it, with manicured lawns and large houses with gingerbread decor. We used to stay in one of two hotels: the Monmouth and the Essex-Sussex. Now only the latter’s building still stands, and it has been made into condominiums. Spring Lake has not really changed from my perspective. The boardwalk is the same. The occasional square, covered seating areas are the same too.

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New Jersey | 63 Driving Diva Tip: Pay attention to parking regulations. Cars parked overnight in Spring Lake must be vertical to the ocean to facilitate street cleaning. Fines will be given if cars are not properly parked. During the day, you can park horizontally.

The Breakers 1507 Ocean Ave. 732-449-7700 www.breakershotel.com

There are many places to stay, but I decided to stay at the Breakers, a full-service, year-round hotel in Spring Lake. Located on the corner of Ocean Avenue, this attractive, moderately sized hotel is easy to find. Its wraparound porches with forever-comfortable rocking chairs are all too inviting. This seaside property began its life in the late 1800s and has been through many renovations, but it has always maintained its Victorian style and ambiance. Upon entering the lobby you see crystal chandeliers, etched glass windows, and a seaside comfortable style. The dining room serves an early bird dinner starting at 5 p.m. and is open to the public. I discovered that the cocktail lounge has live piano music—a favorite of mine. My room was large, with all the usual hotel appointments. I found the decor a bit drab, without much happening on the walls or around the room. The bath was large with a Jacuzzi tub. There was no lighted magnifying mirror, which was fine. I was shown one of the top-floor suites, which was nice and, again, not fancy. The hotel has a lovely swimming pool. The dining room is attractive, and the ballroom is a popular spot for weddings and parties. The staff was very friendly. I do not hesitate to recommend the Breakers.

Victoria House (B&B) 214 Monmouth Ave. 732-974-1882

Unfortunately, when planning my itinerary, I was unable to get a reservation at this popular bed-and-breakfast, but I did visit the property. I

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think I have become a good judge of places even from walk-throughs. This Manhattan couple has done it right. Victoria House’s porch, with its inviting seating, greets you first. Inside, everything is Victorian chic, as were the rooms I was later shown. The chef-owner shares many of her delicious culinary delights, be it at breakfast, at tea, or during dessert, when you can order homemade ice cream or an evening cordial augmented with a decadent piece of chocolate.

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PENNSYLVANIA

STATE COLLEGE have spent a bit of time in this thriving college town. It is vibrant, with all the students, but it has a lot of history too, along with interesting areas and a mix of shops. A short distance from downtown, the scenery becomes bucolic, which is very attractive. So many places and signs say, “Nittany,” which means “single mountain.” Twenty-four campuses are located throughout the state for a total enrollment of eighty-four thousand students. State College is home to Penn State, with a student enrollment of thirty-five thousand. Penn State is among the ten largest public universities in the United States. If there is a draw back to State College, Pennsylvania, it is driving there in the winter when the weather has been feisty, which can be often. The roads have improved but care is still imperative. Check the weather conditions before you venture.

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Nittany Lion Inn 200 W. Park Ave. 814-865-8500 www.pshs.psu.edu/nittanylioninn

This charming colonial hotel in the heart of State College is run by the Hospitality Services Department of Penn State. They do it well, and it is

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a delight to stay on the property, which I have done several times. There are 223 well-appointed rooms and two main dining facilities: The Dining Room (814-865-8590) and Whiskers (814-865-8580), which is the more casual of the two, are attractive. Early reservations are a must, especially on football weekends and during graduation.

Penn Stater 215 Innovation Blvd. 814-863-5000 www.pshs.psu.edu/PennStater

This sister property of the Nittany Lion Inn is not as close to downtown, but nor is it too far away. I have stayed here, and it is most pleasant. It seems more attuned as a conference center than its sister property.

DENVER (POPULATION UNDER 4,000) This very attractive rural area within sixteen miles of Reading and seventy miles from Philadelphia is almost a suburb of both. It seems well planned, and obvious growth and development are taking place. It is farm country with city attributes—but not too many. It is definitely Amish country. I enjoy seeing the Amish as I respect their approach to life. I read that the Amish religion is actually a branch of the Swiss Mennonite denomination and that Mennonites are more open to visitors than the Amish. Driving Diva Learning Experience: Riding on the Pikes Peak Colo. train, I sat opposite parents belonging to one of the sects who were traveling with their numerous children and some of their children’s peers. Conversation was not immediate, but on the return down the “peak,” we began to converse. We had a fascinating discussion about raising children. For all, raising children is a challenge, but with their most disciplined lifestyle, the modern communications tools that their children have access to render it particularly so.

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There is a lot to learn from these Amish communities. Life moves at a slower pace. It is nice to view. The farms still use four- and six-mule teams to pull their machinery. Handmade clothing hangs on the clotheslines, blowing in the wind. I could not help but notice the smooth complexions of women of all ages. They all display a genuine politeness.

Sadie’s Bake Shop 489 Lambert Rd., Narvon 717-445-595

During a Christmas-time visit, I was taken to this tiny, wonderful, simple shop. As we drove into the side driveway, yes, there were clothes drying on the clothesline, and the entrance door was nondescript. The bake shop seemed to be an add-on to the main house. Upon entering, you are welcomed by a smiling young girl, and the aroma of fresh-baked items fills the air. I don’t think there was a speck of anything synthetic used in the shop. Speaking with the young girl, I learned that baking starts around 5 a.m. or earlier—a custom that (I think) her grandmother began. There was a large and varied selection of loaves of breads, pies, doughnuts, and the like. A day-old loaf of bread sold for around a $1. Oh my! Everything was so fresh and proved absolutely delicious. Sadie’s is a must, as is calling to get directions. You will be glad.

LITITZ During this same trip, I enjoyed a visit to Lititz, which was charming, historic, and delightful. It was Christmas Eve afternoon, and a lot of the shops had understandably closed. A few were open.

Tiger’s Eye 49 E. Main St. 717-626-2244 www.tigerseyelititz.com

What a pleasant, upscale boutique with a varied selection of apparel! Beautiful clothing, wearable art, unique accessories—the owner, Nadine Buch Poling, obviously knows how to buy.

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Matthew 25 Thrift Shop 48 E. Main St. 717-626-4451

This nice thrift shop is clean, well organized, not too pricey, and staffed with helpful and very friendly people. I think this is all due to the manager, Nancy Reece. When I called to check some data, she recalled me as the woman who travels hither and yon finding interesting places. It’s always nice to be remembered. The shop had lots of items of all varieties. The funds raised go to help those in need in Lancaster County. No credit or charge cards are accepted, just local bank checks and cash.

Spill the Beans 43 E. Main St. 717-627-7827

This proved a perfect spot for a light lunch and a good cup of coffee. In another ten minutes, they too would have been closed. The owners were most friendly, the prices were right, and the atmosphere was coffeehouse nice. I noticed quite a few bed-and-breakfasts, including the 250-year-old historic General Sutter Inn.

General Sutter Inn 14 E. Main St. 717-626-2115 www.generalsutterinn.com

I imagine that each place would be a treat to visit, as is the entire area. Just don’t rush.

SHAWNEE ON DELAWARE About seventy-five miles from New York City, one hundred miles from Philadelphia, and two hundred miles from Washington, DC, this resort area is thriving.

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Shawnee Inn and Golf Resort 1 River Rd. 570-424-4000 www.shawneeinn.com

It has been more years than I wish to count since I was at the Shawnee Inn, but the memories are vivid. In considering whether to include it, I researched the property, and although there was devastation from a flood, restoration has been completed, and the thesis and ambiance of this grand property have endured. The history is interesting and worth an Internet check, even if a visit is not on the agenda. In 1727 Nicholas Depuy, the original owner, purchased three thousand acres. His home was turned into a fort during the French and Indian War, thus becoming Fort Depuy. Development was taking place, and in 1740 the small village of Shawnee had begun to grow. In the late 1890s, Charles Campbell Worthington, a successful New York businessman who wanted to live in the country, began to spend more and more time in Shawnee. Before long, he had started to execute his dream to build an exclusive resort. In time, the exclusive resort of Buckwood Inn was established and continued to expand, with A. W. Tillinghast hired to design an eighteen-hole golf course. Once that was finished, the challenge became its proper maintenance. The struggle to keep the fairways trim yielded a most novel idea: a Scotsman with a flock of sheep and dogs was hired to maintain them. Needless to say, the tactic did not work. Frustrated by the challenges of the course’s upkeep and being an engineer and inventor, Worthington designed the very successful gang mower, which gave rise to the Shawnee Mower Factory. Soon it was selling gang mowers all over the United States. With a beautiful golf course, Worthington invited a group of professional golfers, and soon—according to rumor—the formation of the Professional Golfers’ Association (PGA) and the first PGA championships followed. Over the years, many famous professional golfers have played the course. The Great Depression came and went, and new vacation formats ensued. In 1943, at the age of ninety, Worthington sold the property to Fred Waring, the famous entertainer, at which point Shawnee on the Delaware

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was born. With his impressive coterie of celebrity friends, all avid golfers, Shawnee became the place to be, and new dimensions of the property began to emerge. Here, Waring’s popular group rehearsed and broadcast his famous radio show from the stage in Worthington Hall, which later became the Shawnee Playhouse. Golf was the sport at Shawnee. I read that Jackie Gleason learned to golf here. I spent part of several summer vacations here and always enjoyed my stay, as Shawnee was another large, beautiful resort—the kind my mother particularly enjoyed and one my father could easily get to on the weekends. I saw Jackie Gleason one day during a visit. What a treat for this young girl! The Shawnee Resort has undergone many upgrades. In 2003 the Tillinghast Golf Academy was started, and in 2004 Sam Snead’s Tavern opened. The tavern memorializes a man who played at Shawnee for many years. Karl Hope, the inn’s next owner, opened a time-sharing addition, then in 1977 sold the resort to the Charles Kirkwoods, who have continued to enhance what in 1944 was renamed the Shawnee Inn and Golf Resort. There is a lot to do here besides playing golf. There is canoeing, kayaking, rafting, fishing, and skiing about two miles up the road. Of course, you can add the spa to your itinerary or choose to do nothing, which might include dreaming—not such a bad thing as you enjoy the Shawnee.

PHILADELPHIA This is the city of brotherly love, the Liberty Bell, the famous scene from Rocky—Balboa running up the steps of the Philadelphia Museum of Art— and so much more. I did not have the time to visit Philadelphia for this project. A big city, with lots to see, places to eat, and things to do, Philly is steeped in history and a place to learn, enjoy, and discover. I look forward to revisiting the city and the beautiful areas just outside it. The distance from downtown Philadelphia to downtown New York City is approximately eighty miles. I did visit the charming town of St. Davids about fifteen miles from Philadelphia, and I look forward to returning and exploring.

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Chelsea House Ltd. 45 Haverford Station Rd., Haverford 610-896-5554

Many savvy people have told me that Chelsea House is exceptionally special—a touch eclectic with many wonderful, creative, upscale, and colorful items. I know the owner (a fantastic designer) and her husband, and many invitations have been extended. I look forward to accepting their invitation and visiting Chelsea House and probably purchasing items that I had not planned to but could not resist. It’s my kind of shop!

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DELAWARE

have often taken U.S. 13 to get to Delaware from the eastern shore of Virginia. This good (well-patrolled) road goes through Laurel, Seaford, and Harrington before reaching Dover. Antique shops, variety stores, and stands dotted along U.S. 13 are all the more appealing because Delaware has no sales tax. On U.S. 13 is charming Odessa, a tiny, historic town worth at least a drive-through. It will not take you very long to explore. In December, Odessa hosts a Christmas program that includes historic tours. Take U.S. 13 North from Laurel, to Dover, to Odessa, to Wilmington. You will see more and more development each time you travel this road. The newish Delaware Turnpike, a toll road accessible from a number of places, eventually takes you over to the long and high Delaware Memorial Bridge and onto the New Jersey Turnpike. Also relatively new is the timesaving Delaware Turnpike Bridge. Toll. U.S. 301 through Delaware—which you can access in Virginia and Maryland—is a very bucolic road with ample service areas. Check your map. It is not congested and usually saves time.

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MIDDLETOWN As there’s a lot of construction happening on 301, I decided on one trip to turn off that highway after getting gas at a Wawa. As a result, I discovered 72

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Middletown. The more original part of town, the Main Street area, is in the process of rehabbing and restoring. I visited two shops:

Hattitude Tearoom and Gifts 109 W. Main St. 302-378-1170

This shop sells all sorts of items and hats of many varieties. Owner Deborah Fletcher said she is adding a tearoom. It’s a perfect spot. Open Wednesday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. A little further down is Windfall Antiques.

Windfall Antiques 115 W. Main St. 410-755-6259

I met owners Phyllis and Brodie Crawford. Brodie told me he is a long-haul truck driver when not polishing tables, as he was doing when I stopped in. Several of the downstairs rooms are filled with antiques. Middletown now has a new and burgeoning shopping area. I picked up a copy of the Middletown Flier. Indeed, a lot is going on in Middletown— perhaps because Wilmington and Annapolis are not too far away. The Atlantic Ocean and Delaware Bay smack at the shoreline of this tiny state just a short distance from Washington, DC, Philadelphia, and Baltimore, which will probably cause it to become more and more congested each time I drive by.

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MARYLAND

aryland is a multifaceted state, with many areas experiencing a lot of growth. From the south, well-patrolled U.S. 13 enters Maryland and proceeds to Salisbury, a hub of highways that offers a number of attractive options. Staying on U.S. 13 will put you in Delaware; U.S. 50 West will take you to the beautiful areas of Cambridge, Oxford, St. Michaels, and Easton on the Chesapeake Bay, then north to the Chesapeake Bay Bridge (not to be confused with the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel to Virginia Beach) and into Annapolis. For years, when I traveled the Chesapeake Bay Bridge, I found it awful and insisted that my boys not say a word until we were across. The bridge’s side rails were very open, and the road surface was like a steel grate. I felt like I could easily plunge into the water. I was not alone in these feelings; thus, bridge conditions have improved, and driving is much better. U.S. 50 west of Salisbury takes you to popular Ocean City, which can be a zoo on weekends in the summer.

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ANNAPOLIS Annapolis seems to grow and get more crowded each year. A charming town with seaport amenities, crooked little streets, and a potpourri of historic buildings, Annapolis is called America’s Sailing Capital. It is home to the

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U.S. Naval Academy, founded in 1845, and to St. John’s College, founded in 1696 as the King William School, the third-oldest institution of higher learning in the United States. The National Sailing Hall of Fame and the well-known boat shows are both in Annapolis. I took my boys there many years ago, and each time the visit was delightful with much to see in terms of both history and present-day happenings. U.S. 301 heading south starts in Delaware and is quite bucolic; then, it becomes more congested in Maryland by Waldorf, White Plains, and La Plata. But there are lots of shopping places and sizeable malls in this area. The same holds heading north. Baltimore, once a “gritty city,” has given itself a facelift in recent years and is worth visiting, especially the Inner Harbor, where you can tour the U.S. Constellation and visit the wonderful National Aquarium. The town of Frederick is very pretty with an interesting history. Near two cities, Baltimore and Washington, DC, it is now a suburb of Washington. You should know about Route 301 North because it can save you time from Virginia. Once you cross the Dalgren Bridge, you will be traveling in a very rural area by A. P. Hill, the military installation. As you head north, there are pockets of tremendous density, full of malls and shopping areas. You will go through Waldorf, White Plains, and La Plata. If you are traveling at any time close to early morning or late afternoon, you will not be able to travel quickly, but that will probably be true if you take I-95. I suggest acknowledging this, studying the map, and then just going for it. On 301 you will see signs for Chestertown and Centerville.

CHESTERTOWN Chestertown is a historic colonial town with many brick houses dating back to the eighteenth century. The beautiful homes in town, particularly along the waterfront, were built by early wealthy merchants. The National Trust for Historic Preservation added Chestertown to its list of America’s Distinctive Destinations. It is definitely a cared-for and preserved community.

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Washington College adds a lively academic dimension. One cannot help but enjoy Chestertown.

CENTREVILLE (POPULATION APPROXIMATELY 2,000) This tiny, most attractive town bears mentioning, in case you are not too far away and want to drive to a charming town.

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WASHINGTON, DC

agnificent and beautiful Washington, DC, is our nation’s proud capital. Before tackling the city, it definitely helps to read up on the myriad of fantastic places to see. Beware, as the roads into Washington can be confusing and congested. Get intelligent and accurate instructions and learn the designated exits. I-495, called the Capital Beltway or simply the Beltway, can be a real doozy. This sixty-four-mile interstate circling Washington, DC, consists of two roadways of four lanes each. There is no way to slow down, except by pulling off onto the shoulder, and getting back onto the road can be hazardous. Traveling clockwise, the Beltway is termed the Inner Loop. Traveling counterclockwise, it is the Outer Loop. Bottlenecks there are, and confusion can reign. Don’t feel intimidated if someone dares to wonder why you are Beltway confused. You are not alone. Once in Washington, I suggest you park your car and walk, take a taxi or bus, or use the metro. The latter, with its vaulted ceilings and attractive and informative directions, can be the way to go. A tour bus is a consideration.

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Tidbit: President George H. W. Bush’s inaugural was very civilized and organized. The day was unseasonably warm, people walked, and all went on with great aplomb. For President George W. Bush’s inauguration the crowds were huge, the weather was very cold and wet, and the metro was the way to travel. I used it, as did throngs of others. Formal attire definitely

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78 | Romancing the Roads added to the ambiance on the metro. There was lots of camaraderie among the riders.

The museums are spectacular and the monuments impressive. The National Mall (www.nps.gov/nama) extends from the U.S. Capitol Building (www.visitthecapitol.gov) to the Lincoln Memorial (www.nps.gov/linc). Arlington National Cemetery (703-607-8000, www.arlingtoncemetery .mil) is imposing. You can tour the White House (www.whitehouse.gov), but planning is imperative. You must contact your member of Congress and request tickets. This may take several weeks. Tours are self-guided. Hours: Tuesday through Saturday, 7:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. Plan and plan ahead of your arrival, and you will have a spectacular visit.

Willard InterContinental 1401 Pennsylvania Ave. NW 202-628-9100 or 866-487-2537 http://washington.intercontinental.com

The magnificent Willard on Pennsylvania Avenue, a historic gem, was almost demolished. Here, the last negotiations of the Civil War were held. The Northerners would only walk through the north door and the southerners through the south door. Walk through this impressive Willard Hotel and have a drink at the landmark Round Robin & Scotch Bar. Traditional tea is served in the afternoon in Peacock Alley—a very special delight. Café du Parc, an exceptional restaurant with an emphasis on French cuisine, has been rated as one of the top in the area. The Willard is a masterpiece, with history, legacies, secrets, and probably a ghost or two. Visit and see this exceptional property.

Occidental Grill & Seafood 1475 Pennsylvania Ave. NW 202-783-1475 www.occidentaldc.com

The Occidental celebrated its hundredth anniversary in 2006. Adjacent to the Willard, it is another historic property one should see. The Old Post Office Pavilion is across the street from the Willard.

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Old Post Office Pavilion 1100 Pennsylvania Ave. NW 202-289-4225 www.oldpostofficedc.com

This most impressive building is now full of shops and restaurants.

Old Ebbitt Grill 675 Fifteenth St. NW 202-347-4800 www.ebbitt.com

The oldest saloon in Washington (established 1856), the Ebbitt is within walking distance of the Willard. This saloon has character and wonderful ambiance.

M&S Grill 600 Thirteenth St. N 202-347-1500 www.mccormickandschmicks.com

The food was delicious, and sitting down was utopia as I was so tired I could hardly walk another step. It had been an interesting Washington visit, and my escort and I had just kept walking, thinking each destination was closer than it really was. Fatigue accumulated. The beverage and meal were consumed very slowly as the body needed to recoup. I recommend this grill even if you are not as tired as I was. The following are three recommended restaurants I include for your information. I anticipate seeing each. I do know the owner, and he does successfully bring a creative touch to his endeavors. The reviews are good from others.

Molly Malone’s Barrack Row 713 Eighth St. SE 202-547-1222 www.mollymalonescapitolhillsaloon.com

I like their tagline: “Real Drinks. Real Food. Real People.”

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Chesapeake Room 501 Eighth St. SE 202-543-1445 www.thechesapeakeroom.com

Here the fare is primarily organic, sustainable, and free-range. The passion for our beautiful mid-Atlantic waters and farms is important.

Lola’s Barracks Bar and Grill 711 Eighth St. SE 202-547-5652 www.lolasbarracksbarandgrill.com

Lola’s serves traditional American food. FYI: Barracks Row Main Street (www.barracksrow.org) is a nonprofit organization founded in 1997 to revitalize Eighth Street SE, Washington’s oldest commercial corridor.

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VIRGINIA

irginia is full of history and beauty. The roads are excellent and well marked, and the scenic drives are magnificent, particularly in the fall. The highways, specifically the Blue Ridge Parkway and the Skyline Drive, can be brake burners in places, so be prepared. I consider Virginia a gentle and civilized state. My mother was born there; my parents met in Virginia and are now buried there in Hollywood Cemetery (see below). Raised in New York City, I was called a Yankee by Richmond relatives. Then as now, I adore Virginia. Be sure to go, enjoy, and discover what a special state it is. The Atlantic Ocean, Chesapeake Bay, and James, Elizabeth, Rappahannock, and Potomac rivers all create beautiful river edges and coastlines in Virginia. The beaches are clean, the waters spectacular, the mountains impressive, and the land fertile.

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RICHMOND Richmond, the attractive and diversified capital city of Virginia, has a tremendous amount of history. Below are some of Richmond’s historical highlights: • 1861: The Civil War breaks out. • 1865: The Confederate capital, Richmond, Virginia, lies in ruins. Thousands of young Southern men have been laid to rest at Hollywood 81

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Cemetery. The spirit of Richmond is drained. The process of rehabbing both the city and its citizens will take time and patience. • 1890: The devastation and scars from the Civil War are fading but not forgotten. It is becoming a major center of commerce. In the over one hundred years since Richmond’s restoration, a lot has happened. Its growth and development and all else that went along with progress are worth reading about. The city has prospered, stagnated briefly, then returned to an upward and onward agenda. Applause is due its perseverance. History books all include the Virginia icons of politics, the statesmen who created our ultimate governing policies, and the outstanding athletics that all have Virginia as their lineage. There is another figure of merit, particularly for this book, whose impact on Richmond is without question: Lewis Ginter. He, as his birth certificate reveals, was a Yankee. Here is a précis on this Renaissance man. New York born in 1824, Ginter was a marketing genius who made his initial fortune in linens in Richmond. Soon after the outbreak of the Civil War, he joined the army and was decorated for his actions. After the war, Richmond businesses tumbled, and money was worthless. His wealth depleted, Ginter returned to New York, where he prospered in the banking business, only to have that wealth swept away by the schemes of Jay Gould on “Black Friday” in 1873. Ginter returned to his beloved Richmond, where once again he became successful and influential, this time in the tobacco business with a new product—cigarettes! Grateful and indebted, modest Ginter decided to give back to the beloved adopted city that had afforded him so much. He decided to go into the hotel business. In spite of time-consuming modes of transportation, Ginter had traveled extensively throughout the world and the United States. He had stayed in some of the finest hotels and seen some of the most exceptional art. Realizing Richmond did not have a truly first-class hotel, he decided to rectify the situation and contacted New York architects John Merven Carrère and Thomas Hastings. The site Ginter decided upon was not considered appropriate because it straddled both the residential and business areas. His reasoning for choosing this location was that he intended his magnificent hotel to be not just be a temporary abode for transients but an

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acclaimed destination for the snow birds who would use it as a temporary resort while traveling to warmer climates in the winter and returning home in spring. It would also be the social center of Richmond. Though the tides of opinions were against him, his decision prevailed. This exceptional philanthropist brought to his hotel concepts he had learned in his travels. In addition to acquiring fine art from all over the world, he saw to it that every modern convenience was installed and incorporated, including electric elevators, electric lights, hot and cold running water in each room, and a teleseme (an early sort of telephone) to summon room service. The hotel derives its name from the man Ginter admired most: Thomas Jefferson. Ginter was humble but proud of his landmark. When he passed away in 1897, he left a monumental mark on his beloved city of Richmond. He is buried in Hollywood Cemetery.

Hotels

Jefferson Hotel 101 W. Franklin St. 804-788-8000 www.jeffersonhotel.com

Award winning and of major distinction, the magnificent, state-of-theart, “beaux arts eclectic” Jefferson is a 342-room hotel that opened to rave reviews and today has added to the applause, having received the Forbes (Mobil) Five Star and AAA Five Diamond. When the hotel first opened, the snow bunnies traveling by train would spend time there. Heading north, children would bring a “souvenir” from Florida of the four-legged reptile variety. These souvenirs never quite made it home but were placed quietly in the large fountain in the upper lobby. They became quite a resident attraction, but as they didn’t stay small, something had to be done. Properly given a more appropriate home, they were replaced with stone alligators. Over the years, the Jefferson Hotel has weathered challenging times. At one point, a wrecking ball was within inches of its walls. Try to visit this exceptional property, even if only to walk through. Visit its small museum and archives in the lobby, walk down the huge and majestic staircase, then

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sit and observe the Jefferson today. Repeat: it is exceptional. You might not easily visualize this, but Elvis rode his motorcycle through the lobby, albeit in an era when the hotel was not at its dressy finest. From all reports, every one of the 226 rooms is comfortable and well appointed. The amenities are generous. Deluxe, superior, and standard are the choices of room size. The decor is in absolute good taste and very proper.

Dining For fine dining, Lemaire at the Jefferson is excellent. Although this restaurant seats 158 guests, when I was there, creative separate dining areas made you feel as if you were in more intimate surroundings. Lemaire, I have been told, has been completely renovated, with updated decor, warmer colors, and new lighting. Also added is a new bar and lounge. The menu is appropriate to today’s dining and offers new small plates starting at about $5, as well as the more familiar entrées. FYI: No entrée is over $30. The wine list is broad, and selections are offered by the glass or half bottle. There is an emphasis on local fare, be it from the waters, the trees, or the gardens. Indeed “farm to table” and absolute freshness are paramount. I adore this recent addition: an urban garden now grows in the Jefferson’s parking lot! It includes a variety of vegetables and herbs. So sensational!

TJ’s, a more casual and relaxed restaurant, is very popular. The menu includes southern favorites like peanut soup and oyster chowder, as well as preparations that have Mediterranean flair and Asian touches. Tea: This delightful respite from all the previous hours in your day is to be enjoyed slowly and frequently. Here, in the most beautiful of surroundings, you will find a large selection of teas, sandwiches, and scones, all of them delicious. If possible, attend Teddy Bear Tea, held the first Sunday of every month to benefit the Children’s Hospital of Richmond. The Sunday Champagne Brunch is a special tradition. The chef changes the theme weekly. Reservations are recommended (804-649-4677). Having stayed at the Jefferson’s sister properties, the Hermitage in Nashville, Tennessee, and the Sanctuary on Kiawah Island, South Caro-

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lina, I can definitely say both are exemplary. I review both in their respective state chapters.

Linden Row Inn 100 E. Franklin St. 804-783-7000 www.lindenrowinn.com

I give Linden Row good reviews on many counts. I toured this property of seventy rooms and was surprised by what I discovered. The front of Linden Row (facing Franklin Street) looks like a row of individual houses; inside, however, it is one long building with a beautiful courtyard, attractive foliage, and a fountain. The entire property is lovely, and the rooms are all decorated in keeping with the turn of the century. Aside from the main row of rooms, there are small individual buildings in the courtyard. The history of Linden Row is interesting. Several special events on the property are open to the public. Call for schedules. According to the guest information card, there are a complimentary continental breakfast, free shuttle service to area destinations, health club privileges at the YMCA just a block away, and much more.

Berkeley Hotel 1200 E. Cary St. 804-780-1300 www.berkeleyhotel.com

Although I have not stayed at the property, I have eaten in the dining room. It has received a AAA Four Diamond Award (see Shockoe Slip below). Whole books are written about the treasures of Richmond—its fine buildings, architecture, museums, schools, and inhabitants. This is just a cursory review of discoveries that might entice you to visit this historyfilled city, once the capital of the Confederacy and now home to many Fortune 500 companies and special people.

John Marshall Hotel 101 N. 5th St. 804-780-3030 www.johnmarshallresidences.com

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The old downtown John Marshall Hotel, named after the Supreme Court chief justice, opened in 1929. It was a landmark, a hub of the day’s social and political scenes. It closed in 1988, reopened briefly in 1999, then closed again in 2004. It was like a monument to earlier times—stately and bold, its name prominently displayed in neon lights that I never saw turned on. In 2010, thanks to Dominion Reality Partners, the John Marshall Hotel’s renaissance is commencing. It was confirmed that a $66 million renovation project will begin, and the landmark building will offer various-size rental units, the ballrooms will be redone and readied for gala events, and the old roof sign will be turned on, stating this grand dame is back in business. Memories: I used to stay at the John Marshall with my parents when we came to Richmond. We would take a taxi from the train station to the hotel, which seemed very large to me. It was in their gift shop that I (about six years old) got a pair of dressed ants! What a hit they were at school as we looked under a microscope to see if they really were ants. (I’m not sure if there was ever a definitive answer, but it was fun to think they were ants.) They still might be in one of my umpteen boxes of “treasures.” Across the street was Ewart’s Cafeteria. Mother could get her favorite spoonbread, and I, like all children eating at Ewart’s, could reach into the treasure chest and get a toy when leaving. Also very close by were the famed department stores Miller & Rhodes and Talheimer’s—the former had a tearoom where we’d go for lunch, dressed most properly, and watch a casual fashion show as we ate. There was the exclusive Montaldo’s for elite female fashions, as well as an authentic Woolworth’s five-and-dime store. What fun and what memories!

Richmond Neighborhoods and Places of Interest Monument Avenue There is a mix of architecture on Monument Avenue: Greek revival, Victorian, antebellum, Federal, “just southern,” and semimodern. This avenue has been called “America’s most beautiful boulevard.” There are six monuments just a few blocks apart, each of a man who made his own statement: Robert E. Lee, Major J. F. B. Stuart, Jefferson Davis, Stonewall

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Jackson, Matthew Fontaine Maury, and Arthur Ashe. Whether you are driving or walking, Monument Avenue is particularly beautiful at dusk. It is the only street in the United States that is a National Historic Landmark. The Fan District This area is dedicated to the preservation and restoration of the urban residential areas. Cary Street Be sure to drive the very diverse Cary Street. For this review, I am going to start at Thompson and Cary going east. This area is called Carytown. Upon entering Carytown, you will see two grocery stores, Martin’s and Kroger. Several banks are in the area. Carytown is a wonderful, eclectic mix of shops, restaurants, and other wonders. More information on Carytown eateries and shopping follows.

Byrd Theatre 2908 W. Cary St. 804-353-9911 www.byrdtheatre.com

This wonderful, original, big movie theater has been maintained as it was for all to enjoy and to respect those bygone days. On Saturdays before the evening show, Bob Gulledge plays the Mighty Wurlitzer. The organ music is definitely mood setting as it fills the theater. Continuing east (going downtown) on Cary Street, you will pass through little areas where the original buildings are being redone, some in an attractive, funky fashion. The Junior League Clothes Rack #1 is on your right (see “Scavenger Shopping” below). You will see the ever-expanding Virginia Commonwealth University to your left and, in some places, on your right. You know you are going downtown as the Jefferson Hotel’s sign is seen skyward.

Landmark Theater 6 N. Laurel St. 804-646-0546 www.landmarktheater.net

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Originally called the Mosque, this shimmering, shining, and opulently designed and decorated building was erected in 1926. Be sure to check for performances. As you continue on Cary, you will zigzag due to construction and street design. Keep heading east, and you will get to downtown and a few other neighborhoods along the way. The massive turrets of the Jefferson Hotel can be seen and are good landmarks. Shockoe Slip, Cary Street, and Canal Street from Tenth to Fifteenth In this shopping and eating mecca, the streets are cobblestone and the sidewalks made of fairly smooth bricks. Some buildings and roads date back to the late 1870s. This was the original mercantile district, but the original buildings did not survive the Civil War. You are now in downtown Richmond. Shockoe Bottom stretches east from Fifteenth to Twenty-First streets and southbound from Broad Street to Dock Street.

Downtown

The Capitol 910 Capitol St. 804-698-1788

Designed by Thomas Jefferson, this impressive building can be toured. Call for details.

St. Paul’s Church 815 Grace St. 804-643-3589 www.stpauls-episcopal.org

Built in 1845, this beautiful church, with its magnificent stained glass windows, is immersed in history. Jefferson Davis, General Robert E. Lee, and Edgar Allan Poe all visited St. Paul’s. It is a very short distance from the Capitol.

St. John’s Church 2401 E. Broad St.

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804-649-7938 www.visitrichmondva.com

Built in 1741, this is the oldest church in Richmond. Here, Patrick Henry gave his unforgettable speech, which ended with the words, “Give me liberty, or give me death.”

17th Street Farmer’s Market 100 N. Seventeenth St. (at Main St.) 804-646-0477 www.richmondgov.com

This market has great selections of all varieties of food—food the way it’s supposed to taste. When you head back west, you will have to take Main Street, which is one-way. When Main Street dead-ends, you will see on your right a Walgreens and, up a smidgen, an ABC Store (reading this you may think I’ve purchased and consumed their products, but I promise I have not). Ellwood Thompson’s is directly ahead of you.

Ellwood Thompson’s Natural Market 4 N. Thompson St. 804-359-7525 www.ellwoodthompsons.com

You will feel healthier just being in this store, the largest natural market in Virginia. The Richmond store uses American wind for 100 percent of its energy needs. The products are delicious and natural. The website provides information about natural health and food products. Go to the deli department in the back of the store and get one of the prepared salads or pasta dishes. You will be glad you did. In this same “complex” is the Hall Tree.

The Hall Tree 12 S. Thompson St. 804-358-9985 www.thehalltreerichmond.com

This is the grandparent of Richmond’s consignment shops (see “Scavenger Shopping” below).

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Back to Cary and Thompson Going west: Now two and four lanes, Cary Street passes through a dignified residential area. For a short time, Cary becomes River Road, and then over the James River, it becomes Huguenot (so much for confusion). There are two “collections” of upscale shops on each side of the road. On the right you will find two unique eateries: Azzurro and Mosaic Café (see “Restaurants” below.) After continuing for about two miles, you will see the Belgrade Shopping Center on your right. Then a mile or so on your left, you see Huguenot Village. This may all sound complicated, but when you actually do it, it will not be. Hopefully.

Williams & Sherrill Interiors 2003 Huguenot Rd. 804-320-1730 www.williamsandsherrill.com

Fifteen years ago, this tiny shop specializing in exceptional fabrics and wallpaper opened. Expansion has taken place not only in its contents but in the scope of its reputation. It stocks twenty-five thousand square feet of fantastic fabrics, and as the Washington Post has stated, “decorators driving from New Jersey to Florida” come to this treasure trove of decorating options. Aside from fabrics, the shop now also sells furniture, decorative art, and amusing bric-a-brac. Remember to bring measurements and pictures; you might just find what you are looking for. Also in Huguenot Village, the Interior Outlet operates under the aegis of Williams & Sherrill. Continuing on Huguenot Road, follow signs for Stony Point Fashion Park (9200 Stony Point). It is about two miles from the turn off onto Huguenot. This upscale, attractive mall is enjoyable just to walk around. But I warn you, you will be tempted. Restoration Hardware and Anthropologie, two of my favorite stores, are here, and there are others. Going back and continuing again on Huguenot, you will arrive at Chesterfield Towne Center, where there are more shops on your left and right. I mention the following as it is very new. In the area there are many places to enjoy.

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Back into Richmond Museums

Valentine Richmond History Center 1015 E. Clay St. 804-649-0711 www.richmondhistorycenter.com

Housed in a beautiful building, this diverse, informative, and charming museum is diminutive in size but big in collections and knowledge. The fantastic costume collection includes over twenty women’s gowns from the eighteenth century, General Robert E. Lee’s boots from when he was at West Point, designer clothing from the late nineteenth century to the present, and so much more. There is also a collection of flat textiles, such as quilts, embroidered samplers, household linens, and such. Here, you will learn a lot about Richmond’s past that has contributed to our lives today. There is also the charming Wickham’s Garden Café (see below).

Virginia Museum of Fine Arts (VMFA) 200 N. Boulevard 804-340-1400 www.vmfa.museum

This absolutely magnificent museum has over twenty thousand works of art. The collections are diverse and very impressive. There are pieces in the spirit of art nouveau, modern, contemporary, French impressionist, and British, as well as others representing the finest in South Asian, Himalayan, and African art. The Fabergé jeweled objects and English silver are exceptional. There is a tremendous number of items to see and admire. You will not be intimidated by the presentations, though perhaps in awe of and slightly mind-boggled by what you see and experience. The settings are truly most exemplary. The VMFA Café can provide delicious sustenance and help maintain energy at interludes during your tour. Check for hours and special exhibits.

Science Museum of Virginia 2500 W. Broad St. 804-864-1400 www.smv.org

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Formerly the Broad Street Railroad Station, a busy train hub in and out of Richmond, the building that houses these wonderful, exceptional displays and interactive exhibits is in itself exceptional. In their heyday, major-city train stations were large and impressive edifices. At its peak, during World War II, this station transited an average of fifty-seven trains a day! In 1943, on any given day, thirty-three thousand passengers arrived or departed through Broad Street! How brilliant to place this impressive museum in an equally impressive building! Try to make this a must-visit.

Children’s Museum 2626 W. Broad St. (next to the Science Museum) 804-474-7000 www.c-mor.org

This is an impressive, well-designed, hands-on, see-and-do museum for children of all ages. Fascinating, it brings out or inspires dormant creative tendencies in all, and there is never a sad expression at the Children’s Museum. Go and enjoy. There are a lot of special events. Call for details. There is an admission fee, but your experience will be worth every penny.

Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden 1800 Lakeside Ave. 804-262-9887 www.lewisginter.org

Whether your thumbs are green or not, the beautiful Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden is not to be missed. Plan to spend as much time as possible and to dine in the Garden Café or Tea House. Before you leave the gardens, you should stop in at the Garden Shop. The merchandise is of all garden varieties, colorful, sometimes fanciful, and tempting—even if you do not have a garden. There are many scheduled events, as well as an admission fee; therefore, a call for details is recommended.

Maymont 1700 Hampton St. 804-358-7188 www.maymont.org

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Visit this magnificent, elegant home of James Dooley, an impressive railroad magnate of his day, and his wife. Not only will you be impressed, but you will learn a lot about the life and times. The gardens are beautiful, the carriage collection is grand, and if you call ahead, you can have your own carriage ride. The Children’s Farm is enjoyed by all. Admission is free although a donation is suggested. Call for hours and specific information. Note: The following is included among the listed museums as I consider it a museum in its own way. It is exceptional.

Hollywood Cemetery 412 S. Cherry St. 804-648-8501 www.hollywoodcemetery.org

One of the most beautiful in the country, this cemetery is well worth a drive around. Obtain a history at the office when you enter the gates. Presidents James Monroe and John Tyler are buried here, as is Confederate president Jefferson Davis. Be sure to see the Confederate Soldiers Section, where approximately eighteen thousand soldiers are buried. Look at the ages on the stones. Adjacent is the impressive pyramid, a ninety-foot granite memorial to the soldiers buried opposite the monument. At twilight this site is more than impressive. As you tour the beautiful grounds, go slowly and look at the statuary as well as the names and the dates. Observation: To visit this beautiful cemetery is very good for the soul. I experience this when I visit my parents and then go one more time to look at the Confederate graves and the pyramid.

Street Speciﬁcs At Broad Street will find a bit of everything, from gas stations, upand downscale restaurants, fast-food places, boutiques, bookstores, and

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practically every major-chain retail store. Continuing west you will come upon Short Pump Town Center, which has over one hundred shops.

Short Pump Town Center 11800 W. Broad St. 804-360-1700 www.shortpumpmall.com

Grove is a long avenue that crosses Libbie, with many restaurants, shops, and so forth. For more, see “Shopping.” Restaurants

Perly’s 111 E. Grace St. 804-649-2779

Try the Brunswick stew and a hot dog with the works. Save room for dessert. This small, fun place can easily become habit-forming, especially if one works or lives nearby. Prices are very sensible.

Arcade Café 5810 Grove Ave. 804-288-9439

This café, delightful in ambiance and delicious in fare, will not disappoint in any way. Everything was fresh, including the oh-so-good homemade cookies and brownies.

Azzurro 6221 River Rd. (River Road Shopping Center) 804-282-1509

Friendly, with good Italian food and moderate prices, this is a happening place—especially given the gregarious clientele usually at the bar. You can dine inside or out or, if you choose, gregariously at the bar. This is a happy environment, and the menu selections will please, regardless of your palate’s desires. Wes Spaniol, general manager extraordinaire, manages the scene with finesse, pizzazz, and efficiency.

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Mosaic Café 6229-A River Rd. (River Road Shopping Center) 804-288-7482

Mosaic serves good, healthy, American foods that are sensibly priced.

Mrs. Marshall’s 3125 W. Cary St. (Carytown) 804-355-1305 www.MrsMarshalls.com

This establishment is not fancy but very good. Most everything on the menu is homemade. The box lunch includes a sandwich, deviled egg, potato salad, and yummy dessert. This is an excellent place to get carryout or party platters.

Can Can 3120 W. Cary (Carytown) 804-358-7274 (PARIS) www.cancanbrasserie.com

Lunch and dinner include a traditional menu with an emphasis on French cuisine. I enjoyed having light fare at the bar. Dining at a table has been pleasant. The fish choices are very good. The energies of all are evident, and the atmosphere is very nice and upbeat. Prices are sensible. There is a popular Sunday brunch.

La Grotta 1218 E. Cary St. (Shockoe Slip) 804-644-2466 www.lagrottaristorante.com

This most appealing restaurant definitely has a “grottoesque” decor and ambiance. The service was good, and the food was delicious. The staff paired delicious wines with the meal.

Millie’s 2603 E. Main St. 804-643-5512 www.milliesdiner.com

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This place is exceptional, unique, fun, delicious . . . Add about umpteen more good adjectives, and you will just start to describe this wonderful, colorful eatery. Everything is cooked in front of you, and if you are at the counter, you will see it all cooked from scratch right there. Creative is an understatement for the menu choices. Waiting to get in on Sundays is part of the ritual. If you do not like to talk to other Homo sapiens, then move on as no one is really a stranger at Millie’s. Casual with a smile and a laugh is the modus operandi.

Robins Tea House at the Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden 1800 Lakeside Ave. 804-262-9887 www.lewisginter.org

This charming garden café is self-service, with both indoor and outdoor seating. What a delightful place to enjoy a light lunch!

Mamma Zu 501 S. Pine St. 804-788-4205 www.myspace.com/mammazu

Looks are deceiving here; continue into Mamma Zu because you will not be disappointed. Chef-owner Ed Vasaio creates interesting Italian selections, which you will wish you could duplicate at home. This is not fancy; it’s just plain good.

Davis & Main 2501 W. Main St. 804-353-6641

A neighborhood-type restaurant that is not just for the neighborhood, Davis & Main combines good cuisine with a friendly atmosphere, full bar, and reasonable prices.

Maggianno’s 11800 W. Broad St. 804-253-0900 www.maggianos.com

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Not knowing what to expect, but having heard glowing comments, I discovered Maggianno’s is a fantastic dining experience along with a spirited happening. The fare is primarily superb Italian, although steaks, veal, chops, and seafood are included in traditional preparations as well as with Italian flair. The restaurant is big, but you do not feel lost. Attention to service is professional and on time and the servers’ attitude, I have found, is ultrafriendly. One can order family style or one dish at a time. Half orders are available, which is so smart. There is a children’s menu. Portions are large, and prices are normal. You will enjoy taking home what is left, and they are prepared to fix your “travel fare” in perfect style, allowing the “reheat” to taste almost as perfect as the initial serving on-site. You cannot help but enjoy, but it definitely helps to be very hungry when you dine at Maggianno’s.

River City Diner 7 N. Seventeenth St. 804-644-9418

The prices are very reasonable. There are two other River City Diners, one at 803 E. Parham Rd. (804-266-1500) off I-95 and the other at the Shoppes at Bellgrade, 11430 Huguenot Rd. (804-897-9518).

8½ 401 Strawberry St. 804-644-9418

8½ serves only takeout food, but what you take out is outrageously delicious. Entrées like eggplant parmigiana, vegetable lasagna, red or white pizza, heroes, and so much more are the best! The prices are rather sensible, but the portions are large. The problem comes when you can’t decide what to choose. You take not one but two or more dishes home, and the bill adds up. Reheated, the food still tastes wonderful. 8½ is owned by Ed Vasaio, who owns Mamma Zu and Edo’s Squid.

Strawberry Street Café 421 N. Strawberry St. 804-353-6860 www.strawberrystreetcafe.com

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A favorite of all ages and professions, this attractive and comfortable café is very popular. The selections for lunch and dinner are well prepared and sensibly priced. The bathtub salad bar is unique. The representation of wines is exceptional. Notice the chalkboards all over the walls filled with artwork by members of the staff.

Tobacco Co. 1201 E. Cary St. 804-782-9555 www.thetobaccocompany.com

This gathering spot for young business executives has a three-story atrium and an exposed antique elevator. This was an abandoned warehouse. Look online for the Sunday Supper Club menu: $16.95. I adore their statement “An overall well-groomed appearance required.” It can be a bit noisy with exuberant voices, but it is a special place.

Baker’s Crust 3553 W. Cary St. (Carytown) 804-213-0800 www.bakerscrust.com

I expected the breads to be wonderful, but this proved inaccurate. My soup and sandwich were only alright. The bread was too thick. The service was fine, but the atmosphere was noisy. There are always a lot of cars out front, so maybe my experience is not typical. FYI: There is another Baker’s Crust at the Short Pump Town Center (804377-9060). I recently ate there, and it was very good.

Edo’s Squid 411 N. Harrison St., 2nd floor 804-864-5488

It is owned by Ed Vasaio. Need I say more? The food is EV delicious. (Remember, EV is also the owner of 8½ and Mamma Zu.) The prices are so reasonable. I requested to sample a few entrées for my dinner. I started

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with squid and arugula with garlic and lemon served in a large soup bowl. The delicious crusty bread was only enhanced by the absorption of the garlic-lemon juice. The squid was very tasty and not too tough. I also had fried oysters. The batter coating was just right, and the angel hair pasta with tomato sauce was light. Then I enjoyed one of the best pieces of rockfish I have ever eaten. Needless to say, I took several small boxes of food home to enjoy. I saw others do the same. Edo’s Squid is in the heart of Virginia Commonwealth University. What a treat for faculty and students to have this unpretentious but delicious restaurant in their neighborhood! Parking can be a bit time-consuming. There is on-street parking with meters.

Bacchus 2 N. Meadow St. 804-355-9919 www.bacchusonmain.com

Open for dinner seven days a week beginning at 5 p.m., this small but very comfortable restaurant is a favorite with all dining enthusiasts. There is a long bar and a few tables and booths that seat about thirty-five. None of the tables are too close together, and the acoustics keep the restaurant pretty quiet, at least it did when I was there. The decor is plain but attractive. Dress is casual. The open kitchen (there is a prep kitchen behind the scenes) lets the fabulous aromas permeate the air, but not in an overpowering manner. Owner-chef Chris Dilauro was cooking the night I was there. (Lucky me!) I had samplings, and they were delicious! The calamari sautéed in olive oil with lemon, garlic, and capers was perfect. The sauté of broccolini in olive oil with garlic and parmesan was also delicious. Seared scallops with prosciutto and truffle oil were prepared to perfection. If you think that I am raving about all that I tried, you are correct. The people next to me were having Dijon-crusted rack of lamb, pan-seared rockfish, and shrimp with saffron beurre blanc—all items were highly recommended. I was rather stuffed, but Chris insisted I try his white-chocolate bread pudding with raspberry sauce. I hesitated to comply, but, oh, am I glad I did. Not too heavy or too sweet, it was delicious. With a good cup of decaf coffee, I was on my way. Try Bacchus. The prices are sensible, the food sensational.

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Five Guys 1601 Willow Lawn Dr. 804-282-5595 www.fiveguys.com

Five Guys has the best hamburgers and fries as well as hot dogs and grilled cheese sandwiches. All the toppings you can imagine are free, and you can get free drink refills too. Prices range from $2.69 to $4.89. The french fries are unbelievable. One serving, regular ($1.89) or large ($3.79), will suffice for the group. This restaurant stresses quality, service, and cleanliness. FYI: There are other Five Guys restaurants in Richmond as well as in Staunton and many other states. To find a store near you, look them up and go enjoy.

Arianna’s Grill and Pizza 700 N. Sheppard St. 804-353-6002

This is a delicious and not-expensive discovery. The pasta dishes and baked Italian specialties are well prepared, without too many Italian spices. I enjoyed mussels, clams, and shrimp, each in their own distinctive sauce. Oh my, the hot bread dipped in the sauces was so good. Antonio Altadonna, the creator and owner of this corner eatery, is absolutely hands-on, and he obviously knows the business, which he told me he was introduced to at a very early age. I also learned that this building, slightly off the main thoroughfare, sat vacant for years. Antonio saw the potential of this former drugstore, and, as the saying goes, the rest is history. I particularly like the fact that you are not squeezed close to others. In fact, the booths are roomy and large enough to seat six comfortably. Whether you choose pasta, pizza, or another Italian selection, you will enjoy.

Positive Vibe Café 2825 Hathaway Rd. 804-560-9622 www.myspace.com/positivevibecafe

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Just to rave and boast about this wonderful café would only be the tip of the iceberg in acclamations that I want to give it. The ambiance is wonderful, as are the menu selections and the prices. What is so very special is the premise of this café. Founded in 2002, it provides meaningful employment in food services to individuals with physical and developmental challenges. They learn hands-on, getting on-the-job training. Founder Garth Larsen was inspired by his son Max to create Positive Vibe Café, and with the help of many of the area’s best chefs, this exceptional eatery was established. Whether enjoying a cup of delicious soup, one of the healthy buffalo, seafood, beef, jambalaya, or salad selections, or a decadent, delectable dessert, you will only be glad to have been to Positive Vibe Café. You’ll be anxious to return. The selection of restaurants in the Richmond area is huge. Enjoy! Shopping

Irresistibles 5814 Grove Ave. 804-285-4765

Irresistibles has delightful, colorful, and creative women’s wear.

Peter Blair 5718 Grove Ave. 804-288-8123 www.peter-blair.com

This shop has top-quality men’s wear and an unbelievable selection of men’s ties.

Shops at 5807 5807 Patterson 804-288-5807 www.shop5807.com

This is a very upscale collection of twenty or so shops, which are as attractive and upbeat as the personnel that oversee them. There is an eclectic assortment of items, many of them pricey. You will find very few items you do not wish to take home.

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Garden Shop at the Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden 1800 Lakeside Ave. 804-262-9887 www.lewisginter.org

You feel as if you are in a garden, and you will see many items for your garden and for gifts. This is truly a beautiful shop.

Sheppard Street Antiques 103 S. Sheppard St. (Carytown) 804-355-7454 www.sheppardstreetantiques.com

There are four parts to this attractive shop: the Garden Room, Second Time Around, Gale & Gale Antiques, and Antico. Lots of nifty items are available in all price ranges.

Fraiche 304 Libbie Ave. 804-405-5677 www.fraichehome.com

This attractive-to-the-max shop is a gem. What a vibrant mix of alluring items of all varieties! You’ll find upscale, crisp, beautiful flowers, monogrammed items, sparkling crystal, table settings, and so much more. Owners Vickie Blanchard and Lou Gambill are creative, enthusiastic owners. Go enjoy and be tempted.

Renew 4 You 5600 Patterson Ave. 804-929-8185 www.renew4you.net

I just discovered this delightful store during final edits, and since it is my kind of shop, I had to share. George and Monica Nickolaou custompaint old, new, and debatable furniture. They also upholster. Really quite talented, they are doing what I like to do, only they do it one hundred plus times better.

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Scavenger Shopping: A Condition That Is Easy to Acquire

Butterfly Consignment Boutique 5726 Patterson Ave. #B 804-288-4700

This shop sells lots of clothing of every variety, including St. John suits along with well-known designer tops, skirts, and slacks. The shoes and boots were many. The selection is good. This jewel of a shop is not glamorous but full of finds. The owner is chic-savvy with a nonstop sense of style and humor.

Junior League Clothes Rack #1 2618 W. Cary St. 804-358-4693 www.jlrichmond.org

With a mix for all ages, don’t be surprised if you find a treasure. The shop also has a selection of home items. Enjoy!

Junior League Clothes Rack #2 6780 Forest Hill Ave. 804-323-6270 www.jlrichmond.org

Each Junior League Clothes Rack, or CR, is a treat to visit. This CR might be a bit more upscale. Both CRs are well managed by Mark Gaddis and have a wonderful selection of items delightfully presented.

The Hall Tree 12 S. Thompson St. 804-358-9985 www.thehalltreerichmond.com

After thirty-three years and thirty thousand consignors (eight hundred to one thousand each year), I think one can say this is an established “tree.” It carries clothing for ladies, men, children, and infants. The Hall

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Tree does not sell shoes but does have jewelry of all types. Check out the items and the bargains of the ultra ilk—originally these items may have cost $1,000, but now they cost only $100.

Consignment Connection 5517 Lakeside Ave. 804-261-3600

You will find rooms and rooms of items.

Halcyon: Experienced Clothing 117 N. Robinson St. 804-358-1311

This is the shop for children, ladies, gentlemen—anyone who enjoys clothes of the “experienced” variety, which definitely means vintage. Connie Carroll is the creator of this place, and I am so glad that I could not find the house sale I was looking for and found Halcyon instead. It is not hard to look at the collections, even the well-displayed collections that reflect our parent’s times as well as the very vintage. This is a delightful shop, and you will not be disappointed when you visit and probably buy. Hours: Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Sunday, 1 p.m. to 5 p.m.

The Attic 1348 Gaskins Rd. (Grayton Crossing Shopping Center) 804-740-9040

A haven for the buyer and a convenience for the seller, this was another surprise find that pulled at me, and, of course, in I went. This large shop, with items upon items, has everything for decorating a home. I did see some very interesting costume jewelry and attractive handbags. There was some clothing, but since there are no dressing rooms, the items cannot be tried on. I found the prices very sensible—no gouging and everything is well displayed. What a good place to get rid of an item that, for you, has served its time and get another! Hours: Monday through Saturday, 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.

Baggio Gayton Crossing Shopping Center 804-754-1163 www.baggioconsignment.com

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It will be hard not to find a designer treasure here. Oh my, the shoes and accessories! Name-drop your favorite designer, and you will probably find it here. Owner Norma Santamaria, obviously a lover of fine clothes, has a well-organized consignment shop for “appreciated designer clothing.” There is no question, the feel, design, and craftsmanship of fine clothes make you feel special, and at Baggio you just might get that special feeling for a small price compared to the original. The associates are friendly and not pushy. You will have a good time here, and the music playing in the background is very conducive and adds to the designer ambiance.

Bradley’s Antiques 101 E. Main St. 804-644-7305

Immediately upon entering, you know you are in a real antique shop. To say Bradley’s is full of treasures is an outright understatement. It is stuffed to the max, although “stuffed” is not a word sophisticated and erudite enough for the collection of items you will see within the four walls. Organized it is not, but you will find wonderful decorative arts. Save a fair amount of time for Bradley’s. You will not be sorry. You just might find something you have wished for or simply cannot resist. Enjoy! Miscellaneous Worth a small king’s ransom if needed:

Mango Hair Salon 123 Libbie Ave. 804-285-2800 www.mangosalon.com

This salon is one of the very best. Trust me on this; I have been to a few. Bobbie Heaney, a fantastic stylist, and her businessman husband, Patrick—childhood sweethearts from Montana—have created a place many nationally well-known hair salons would envy. Do no expect to get an appointment with Bobbie as she is booked months in advance. Running Mango is a big job, and her schedule is very full. All the staff is talented at Mango, which also offers manicures, pedicures, and body waxing. Just make an appointment. You will become a new you. Fabulous!

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Mango Hair Salon II 11118 W. Broad St. 804-285-2800 www.mangosalon.com

The opening of Mango II has made a lot of people happy. All the same excellent services are available at the new salon.

Village Exxon 7100 Patterson Ave. 804-288-4065

If by any chance, while you are in Richmond, your car needs “attention,” this is the place. Many times over, I have found everyone friendly and knowledgeable, with Warren overseeing all. My experiences at Village Exxon have never revealed any gouging or skimpy service. It is a good gas station—and they are hard to find.

S&S Body Shop 5001 W. Clay St. 804-288-2935

Heaven forbid you need an auto body shop during your sojourn in Richmond, but if you do, here is one I recommend. I was involved in a hit-and-run, and S&S was recommended. Very hesitant about such places, I took my car there. The staff was not only efficient but pleasant to work with; my car was rehabbed, and I am pleased. Good luck, and may you not need an auto body shop.

Fifth Avenue Cleaners 4916 W. Broad St. 804-355-6081

Under new and excellent management, this establishment is clean and efficient with friendly staff. Clothes are cleaned and ready by 5 p.m. on the day after you leave them, and the staff will try to accommodate urgent requests or instructions like “no crease.” The beauty here is that cleaning each garment costs approximately $2.

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Dr. Elizabeth Wilson, Dentist 7204 Glen Forest Dr., Suite 203 804-282-7260

When traveling in Richmond, you hopefully will not need a dentist, but if you do, this is the place to go. The service is good, painless, and friendly.

Westwood Pharmacy 5819 Patterson Ave. 804-288-1933

This is a real pharmacy, with a soda fountain and booths, where you can enjoy a positively delicious breakfast or lunch. You can also find all sorts of other items and gifts. There’s a great card collection, and don’t miss the “dollar aisle.” The store has expanded, so there is more at Westwood.

Buford Pharmacy 2608 Buford Rd. 804-272-1423

What a place! This is a one-stop shop for everything from your prescription needs, to presents of all varieties, to funky “whatevers.” Buford Road is off of Huguenot. Turn on Forest Hill.

Colonial Plating 9 S. First St. (between Main and Cary streets) 804-648-6276

Just in case you need anything silver or metal repaired or replated, consider this three-generation family-owned shop. It’s not fancy, but they do a good job.

Batteries Plus 9422 W. Broad St. 804-934-0200

These are the battery professionals. They carry batteries of every variety. The staff are friendly and efficient. Hours: Monday through Friday, 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.

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JAMES RIVER PLANTATIONS Virginia’s plantations are outstanding. Many are open to the public. In historic Charles City County along Route 5, a short distance from Richmond, the James River plantations are exceptional. Some particulars are listed below. For more information, call 800-704-5423 or visit www.jamesriver plantations.org. The James River plantations include the following:

Belle Air Plantation 11800 John Tyler Memorial Hwy., Charles City 804-829-2431

Berkeley Plantation 12602 Harrison Landing Rd., Charles City 804-829-6018 www.berkeleyplantation.com

Evelynton Plantation 6701 John Tyler Hwy., Charles City 804-829-5075 www.jamesriverplantations.org/Evelynton.html

Sherwood Forest Plantation 14501 John Tyler Memorial Hwy., Charles City 804-829-5377 www.sherwoodforest.org

Shirley Plantation 501 Shirley Plantation Rd., Charles City 804-829-5121 www.shirleyplantation.com

Westover Plantation 7000 Westover Rd., Charles City 804-829-2882 www.jamesriverplantations.org/Westover.html

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Dining

Indian Fields Tavern 9220 John Tyler Memorial Hwy., Charles City 804-829-5004

Coach House Tavern 12604 Harrison Landing Rd., Charles City 804-829-6003

Bed-and-Breakfasts Edgewood Plantation 4800 John Tyler Memorial Hwy., Charles City 804-829-2962 www.edgewoodplantation.com

North Bend Plantation 12200 Weyanoke Rd., Charles City 804-829-5176 www.northbendplantation.com

Piney Grove at Southall’s Plantation 16920 Southall Plantation Ln., Charles City 804-829-2480 www.pineygrove.com

HISTORIC TRIANGLE The towns of Williamsburg, Jamestown, and Yorktown make up the Historic Triangle. Call 800-447-8679 (HISTORY) for all inquiries.

Williamsburg Williamsburg is a treasure with many components, each a treasure in its own right. Colonial Williamsburg, an authentic restoration of the actual

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historic site, should be toured at least once, both inside and out (buildings, shops, and so forth). It is an experience. By the time you have visited a couple of the sites, you will feel as though you have stepped back in time. You will not want to rush through your visit, so do your homework before hand—this is important. Tickets for admission are a little pricey, but to maintain and preserve this treasure, admission fees are a necessity. If the detailed tour does not suit your schedule, you can always just walk around. You will see a lot of people looking, peeking, and observing. Regardless of how you visit, wear very comfortable shoes. They are essential with all of the cobblestones. The College of William and Mary (757-221-2628) is the secondoldest institution of higher learning in the nation. There is a lot to see on this campus that twines itself through Colonial Williamsburg. Impressive trails wind through the College Woods. Call for details.

Williamsburg Pottery 6692 Richmond Rd. 757-564-3326 www.williamsburgpottery.com

In 1938, James Maloney began reproducing eighteenth-century saltglaze items. Soon after, he added reduced-priced china and glassware to the inventory, and the bargain shoppers quickly arrived, then returned and returned. Now, seventy thousand items are “held” on two hundred acres in thirty-two buildings. Start with the Solar Building, which contains china, glass, plants, and such. I have always found more things that I hadn’t thought to look for, much less buy, in this building. I was disappointed with my last visit to this pottery. I think everyone else was as well. It seemed to have become disorganized, with no highquality or tempting items. Reports are that a redo is in the works. On Richmond Road you will find lots of shops and outlets. Just remember “outlet” does not necessarily mean “bargain.” There are lots of restaurants and motels.

Busch Gardens Williamsburg One Busch Gardens Blvd., Williamsburg 757-253-3350 www.buschgardens.com

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Busch Gardens Williamsburg has been voted “most beautiful park” by Theme Parks Magazine. One admission price covers all rides, shows, and regularly scheduled attractions. Approximate prices are $64 for adults and $54 for children.

Water Country USA 176 Water Country Pkwy. 800-343-7946 www.watercountryusa.com

Several ticket options include individual, group, day, and year. Check for details and directions.

Jamestown and Yorktown These towns have many indoor and outdoor exhibits. You will be standing where history was made and lived. Call and research.

NEWPORT NEWS

Mariner’s Museum 100 Museum Dr. 757-596-2222 www.mariner.org

An easy drive off of I-64 with well-marked directions, this museum is a favorite of mine. Though not large, it is one of the most extensive and comprehensive maritime museums in the world.

Christopher Newport College 1 University Pl. 757-594-7000 www.cnu.edu

In 1996, when Paul Trible became president of this small liberal arts college, the freshman class numbered approximately 543. Ten years later, there were 1,187 freshmen, and all the statistics concerning the institution

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are more than impressive. President Trible’s accomplishment is truly striking. The campus structures are imposing.

HAMPTON

Virginia Air and Space Center 600 Settlers Landing Rd. 757-727-0900 www.vasc.org

This official visitors’ center of NASA’s Langley Research Center is definitely worth a visit. The exhibits are interesting and well presented. There is an IMAX theater as well.

NORFOLK Originally known primarily for the huge, omnipresent naval base, Norfolk has grown into a highly diversified city. Its claims to fame now include cultural and performing arts, museums, historical sites, a diverse population, a beautiful waterfront, good schools, fun events, and, most recently, a cruise-ship port. FYI: To be savvy, when you say the word “Norfolk,” do not pronounce the l.

Chrysler Museum 245 W. Olney Rd. 757-664-6200 www.chrysler.org

This artistic jewel is Norfolk’s world-class museum. This treasure, with its exceptional collections, should not be overlooked. The Steuben, Tiffany, and Chihuly glass collection is brilliant. Egyptian, Asian, African, Pre-Columbian, and Greco-Roman artwork is displayed. The Chrysler’s

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collections of European paintings, sculptures, decorative arts, and photography by the masters are outstanding. The beautiful Worchester porcelain collection is a favorite of mine. Its display is as impressive as the porcelain itself. Gratitude is due to the late Mr. and Mrs. Henry Clay Hofheimer II, who lovingly collected the Worchester porcelains. The delightful restaurant at the Chrysler is Cuisine & Company (757-333-6291). Its reputation is noteworthy. Though not large, dining space is comfortable. The delicious and creative menu selections are excellent. The prices are reasonable. Digest the art sightings as well as a delicious lunch. The Chrysler Museum also operates two historic houses a short distance from downtown.

Moses Myers House 331 Bank St. 757-441-1526 www.chrysler.org/Myers_house.asp

Moses Myers was a prosperous Jewish merchant who lived with his family in this nonostentatious but elegant home, built circa 1792. Quite uniquely, the house retains 70 percent of its original contents. This is an important collection.

Willoughby-Baylor House 601 E. Freemason St. 757-441-1526 www.chrysler.org/WB_house.asp

Home to the Norfolk History Museum, Willoughby-Baylor House displays a lot of the area’s architectural, commercial, naval, and military heritage.

Virginia Zoo in Norfolk 3500 Granby St. 757-441-2374 www.virginiazoo.org

Impressive for its size, this zoo has some amazing exhibits. It invites you just to amble and admire. The landscaping is most attractive.

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Waterside, an eclectic mix of shopping and eating, is a festival marketplace that overlooks the Elizabeth River. During one of the major scheduled events, this is the place to be. You will definitely not be alone. Waterside has spiraled down, but the town fathers are working to rectify this. One can take a ferry, the Carrie B, from Waterside over to Portsmouth and walk around Olde Towne Portsmouth. While there, visit the outstanding Children’s Museum and other attractions.

Children’s Museum 221 High St. 757-393-5258 www.childrensmuseumva.com

This is definitely recommended. In season, you can also take the sightseeing boat for a tour of the Elizabeth River. More extended water tours and dining is available on the Spirit of Norfolk. Reservations are required.

Nauticus at the National Maritime Center 1 Waterside Dr. 757-664-1000 www.thenmc.org

Nauticus’s position on the Elizabeth River only enhances this interesting maritime center. An added attraction, the battleship Wisconsin is berthed alongside.

MacArthur Memorial MacArthur Square (Downtown) 757-441-2965 www.macarthurmemorial.org

Admission is free, and here one can view General Douglas MacArthur’s five thousand books and 2 million items of correspondence, as well as a twenty-four-minute film on the life of this controversial man. You should see the movie first. You can’t miss finding the impressive MacArthur Mall in downtown. It teams with wonderful stores and a well-run food court.

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Educational Institutions There are many others in the world of academia; here are a few: • • • • • •

Old Dominion University Norfolk State University Virginia Wesleyan College Eastern Virginia Medical School Norfolk Collegiate Norfolk Academy (Serving grades 1 through 12 and founded in 1728, this is one of the nation’s oldest private schools.)

Restaurants

Kincaid’s 300 Monticello Ave. #147 757-622-8000

Kincaid’s has a very extensive menu featuring seafood and chops, plus all the usual choices for both lunch and dinner. The restaurant is nestled into a corner of MacArthur Mall, which is on Monticello Avenue. Parking is in the mall garage. Kincaid’s has first-come, first-served seating, so dine early, dine well, and dine for less than $20.

Rowena’s 758 W. Twenty-Second St. 800-980-2253 (CAKE) www.rowenas.com

Over twenty years ago, a petite, energetic, and creative woman launched Rowena’s Inc. Whether due to the prodding of friends or her own desire to share what she did so well, she launched this gourmet dessert shop, which now boasts a long list of specialties, including almond pound cake, lemon pound cake, lemon curd, and carrot jam. Believe it or not, carrot jam goes well with so many items from chicken to ice cream—I mean it!—that it should become a staple in your kitchen. Visit the tearoom and have a cup of tea—an ideal place to recharge your batteries and sample some of the delicious delights before or after you tour the facilities. There is no charge for the tour, but reservations are

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required. Be sure to learn how to brew a proper pot of tea and remember not to extend your pinky while drinking it.

Todd Jurich’s Bistro 150 W. Main St. 757-622-3210 www.toddjurichsbistro.com

There are restaurants, and then there are restaurants. This is one of the restaurants. In one hundred thousand miles or more, I have eaten in many establishments of all sizes, types, fares, and decors. Without fail, this bistro is one of the best. I could ramble on about the seafood from the Chesapeake Bay and the fresh-from-the-garden produce, but I’ll let you find out for yourself. Do dress appropriately. Reservations are recommended, and valet parking is available. Driving Tip: When leaving the Norfolk area, check your map carefully. If you plan to head west on I-64, there are two ways to approach the interstate, including the Hampton Roads Bridge Tunnel or the Monitor Merrimack Bridge. During rush hour, the latter is the way to go. Huge delays often occur on the Hampton Roads Bridge Tunnel, and there is no turning around.

VIRGINIA BEACH Virginia Beach has a little bit of everything. The beachfront area in the summer affords a full array of beach life. There is a concrete boardwalk as well as a bicycle trail. The restaurants are numerous and varied, as are the shops. Although summer is a vibrant time at “The Beach,” with lots of people and lots of sand and sea, the best time, I think, to visit Virginia Beach is early fall and spring. Once mainly a summer oasis, Virginia Beach is now a thriving yearround community. Guinness World Records states, “Virginia Beach has the longest pleasure beach in the world.” Hotels crowd every inch of the Atlantic Avenue beachfront. Across the avenue, there are the honky-tonk shops as well as boutique shops. You will find plenty to see and do.

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Area historic sights include the Old Coast Guard Station, the oldest government-built lighthouse, at Cape Henry and the First Landing Cross, which marks where the first settlers arrived in 1607.

Virginia Aquarium and Marine Science Center 717 General Booth Blvd. 757-385-7777 www.virginiaaquarium.com

This museum is outstanding. You will see amazing sea life and exhibits of interesting marine facts and happenings. The huge aquarium will fascinate. From the end of December and through March, public boats go out whale watching. Of course, there are no guarantees, but sighting a whale is a happening. Call the Chamber of Commerce for details on this and many other attractions (757-664-2575). The Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel: Driving north from Virginia Beach, you cross this magnificent bridge and tunnel, an impressive engineering feat spanning nineteen miles of the Chesapeake Bay from Virginia Beach to Virginia’s Eastern Shore. The toll seems high, but the charm and time saved make it worthwhile. When the bridge-tunnel opened, it also opened the Eastern Shore to the mainland. Before that, access to the mainland was by ferryboat or driving up to Maryland to cross the Chesapeake Bay Bridge into Annapolis. The Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel is an experience, and as you drive across, picture how it was constructed. It is mind-boggling. This bridge changed the Eastern Shore forever. Tidbit: I had two unusual experiences on the bridge—alone! One was at night. I was in the middle of the bridge-tunnel when most, if not all, of the lights went out! Instantly, you remember what is on each side of you: the deep, dark water of the bay. I drove as close to the center as possible. Another time, a truck jumped the guardrail, and all traffic was stopped on the bridge. Everyone got out of his or her car to watch. You could feel the bridge move up and down. As an engineer’s daughter, I could not help but wonder if the designers had planned for so many cars to be stopped on the bridge at once. They must have, as we all finally drove on.

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EASTERN SHORE The Eastern Shore of Virginia is becoming more popular. A peninsula with the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Chesapeake Bay on the other, it is (for now) a truly beautiful rural area. Farming has been the main industry. Potatoes and soybeans are the principle crops. For years it was isolated, but when the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel was built, life on the Eastern Shore changed emphatically forever. Arriving on the Eastern Shore via the bridge-tunnel, you are on Route 13, which takes you north through many small towns. The first main town is small, historic Cape Charles, with a beautiful waterfront on the Chesapeake. Today, many of the large old homes are becoming bed-andbreakfasts. In Melfa, be sure to look for the Blue Crab Bay Co.

Blue Crab Bay Co. 29368 Atlantic Dr., Melfa 800-221-2722 www.bluecrabbay.com

Here you can find exceptional “shore-themed” products. You saw these products in the opening scene of Julia Roberts’s film Sleeping with the Enemy. While at her kitchen table, dynamic Pam Barefoot envisioned a company that would create and sell the best of products from the Chesapeake and its areas. She has, as they say, “done good.” Due to her determination and newly acquired business acumen, Blue Crab Bay has not stopped growing and delighting crowds from coast to coast. Stop in at the shop if you can, and if it isn’t on the agenda, visit the website or call for a catalogue. Driving Factoid: Just in case you should need it:

Riverside Shore Memorial Hospital 9507 Hospital Ave., Nassawadox 757-414-8000 www.shorehealthservices.org

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Head north on Route 13 to Wachapreague, aka Flounder Capital of the World (there will be signs). This formerly thriving resort community now has the Island House Restaurant.

Island House Restaurant 17 Atlantic Ave. 757-787-4242 www.wachapreague.com/theislandhouse.html

This restaurant is catty-corner to the thirty-room Wachapreague Inn.

Wachapreague Inn 1 Main St. 757-787-2105 www.wachapreagueinn.com

Back on Route 13 you will pass signs for Exmor; continue north to Onley.

Turner Sculpture Museum and Foundry 27316 Lankford Hwy. 757-787-2818 www.turnersculpture.com

The Turner Museum and Foundry is not to be missed. This father-andson team of William and David Turner is talented and has become very well known. Their magnificent sculptures are more than impressive.

CONTINUING NORTH Onancock You cannot miss Onancock as you head up Route 13. You should stop and stroll around the area, which continues to grow. Immediately, you will notice the heritage that the original inhabitants established. There are lots of little (and fairly big) shops. Nothing is synonymous with the Eastern Shore like the Willie C. Crocket family. Father Willie C., the patriarch, is a talented artist, teacher,

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and poet and a definite character. His art is the Eastern Shore. Even hung miles away, his paintings allow you to feel the area. Try to meet Willie. You will not forget him.

Tangier Island Tangier Island warrants a visit. It will be one of your more memorable stops. Truly a step back in time, it is located twelve miles west of the Onancock dock. When you arrive, you can rent a bicycle or golf cart, either of which must be reserved. Check at the dock or on the island. Here, life is lived as in few other spots, if any. There are several places to stay on the island such as Shirley’s Bay View Inn (757-891-2396). There are two small grocery stores. Restaurants include Hilda Crockett’s Chesapeake House (757-891-2331), Fishermans Corner (757-891-2900), Waterfront Restaurant (757-891-2248), and The Channel Marker Restaurant (757-891-2220). The Channel Marker is the only restaurant on the island open year-round. You really don’t know what Chesapeake seafood tastes like until you eat on Tangier Island. Of course, the unique atmosphere has a bit to do with your enjoyment. The island speech is Tangier English, and sometimes it takes a while to get used to. A wildlife wonderland, Tangier Island is beautiful, restful, and unique. As the sun sets on the island, you will sigh and be glad. You can’t go many places where the crime rate is zero. For more information about Tangier Island, visit www.tangierisland-va.com. On Route 13 there are many places to stop, including produce and seafood stands and antique shops. Schedule a visit to Chincoteague to see the National Wildlife Refuge and famous wild ponies. This beautiful place has definitely become a bit touristy, so going in the off-season is ideal.

Northern Neck While in the Norfolk-Richmond area, I highly recommend making a detour off of I-64 onto Route 17. Here you will find lots of antique and thrift shops of all varieties. You will cross the Coleman Bridge, where there is a toll,

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but you pay it only once on the northbound side. Get explicit directions for this visit.

Irvington Charming is an understatement for this most special town, with its subtle sophistication, savvy smarts, and whimsy. It’s fairly close to many larger cities, but when there you feel as if you have traveled to another time—and in some ways you have. The town of Irvington consists of only a few blocks. There are several truly wonderful shops, but I only had time to stop into a few. Allow for plenty of time to explore.

Hope and Glory Inn 634 King Carter Dr. 804-438-6053 www.hopeandglory.com

Originally a school in the 1890s, this unique structure has been renovated into the wonderful Hope and Glory Inn. As soon as you walk into the lobby, originally several first-floor classrooms, you feel as special as all that surrounds you. The center stairway beckons to the upstairs, where individual accommodations are attractively appointed—each with its own personality. If I were to give Hope and Glory an award to add to its others, it would be my “snuggle award.” Cozy, warm, and very comfortable, it has been recognized as one of the “101 Best Hotels in the World” by the Tatler/Cunard Travel Guide. It has earned other richly deserved accolades as well. There are seven rooms in the main building and six quaint, very English cottages. Then there are seven carpenter Gothic cottages called “the tents.” Music wafts through the gardens. How many other places have a moon garden that only blooms in the evening? There is the Meeting House for retreats and conferences, often booked by a Fortune 500 company or one that is soon to be. If a cruise on the Chesapeake Bay beckons, tell the Hope and Glory captain to book you a trip on the Faded Glory, an authentic Chesapeake

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Bay “dead rise” workboat. You can dine on Saturday evenings at the Chef’s Table or take a Crab Cruise on Fridays. The rates at Hope and Glory are not exorbitant and include a homemade breakfast—as well as an experience you will not forget. If you were told about the inn or saw it in a movie, you would wonder if such a place really existed in today’s world. It does indeed, and only by visiting Irvington and seeing it will you too have knowledge of its “specialness.”

Nate’s Trick Dog Café 4357 Irvington Rd. 804-438-6363 www.trickdogcafe.com

What a fun and joyous restaurant with delicious food! I adored the decor from the moment I walked through the picket fence gate. Then, you enter an enclosed porch area with a sparkling chandelier and many pithy statements on the walls. What a greeting. Wally and son Nate are the present owner and chef. With their culinary expertise, Nate’s Trick Dog is a must. Although I have not eaten here recently, from all I have heard, excellence and exuberance continue to be the fare at Trick Dog. There is also an actual black Trick Dog statue. The story goes that the original Trick Dog survived a fire in 1917 and was found in the basement of the opera house. Petting the statue is considered good luck. The statue is recognized throughout the restaurant, including in the bar, where the menu states. “Sit and stay.”

Tides Inn 480 King Carter Dr. 804-438-5000 www.tidesinn.com

The famous Tides Inn has new owners; from all I hear, they have brought it back to life, and the upgrades have been rampant. I have enjoyed many times at the inn, but it had become worn. With its setting on the water, its buildings, and its history, I would venture to say that the Tides Inn today is everything the original owners envisioned and then some. Sedona Resorts is the managing partner.

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This 480-acre waterfront property on the Chesapeake Bay with 106 guest rooms is a gem. Sportswise, swimming, croquet, shuffleboard, basketball, bicycling, and golf are available. The complimentary par-3 golf course and Golden Eagle Golf Club are enticing to all golfers. To me, the main attraction is the Chesapeake Bay. For years, the 127-foot vintage yacht Miss Ann was a Tides Inn fixture that took guests on beautiful cruises in the nearby waters. I adored the trips. Remembered by many, the boat was a delightful perk, but age took its toll, and she was retired. Visit the new Tides Inn to see and enjoy this most special of places with old-world charm and updated amenities. FYI: Sedona Resorts also has under their aegis Enchantment Resort. I have heard that it is only magical.

The Dandelion 4372 Irvington Rd. 804-438-5194 www.thedandelion.com

Here you will find just what you have secretly wanted to add to your wardrobe.

WEST FROM RICHMOND TOWARD CHARLOTTESVILLE

Keswick Hall 701 Club Dr., Keswick 434-979-3440 www.keswick.com

An hour west of Richmond on I-64 and about a half hour south of Charlottesville is magnificent Keswick Hall. To the gates it is about a mile or so from Exit 129. Once you drive through the gates, you realize you are in very special surroundings. Follow the road a few miles, passing impressive private homes, and suddenly you will see Keswick Hall. An impressive

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structure in itself, it is not unlike a British castle, and the rolling hills and scenery only add to the picture and exceptional ambiance. Upon entering, you gaze in wide-eyed silence at the beauty that surrounds you. A beverage table greets you with a welcoming libation appropriate to the time of year. On one of my visits, there was delicious hot cider. As you peruse the setting, you see fabrics that mix floral prints and bright companion solids. Parquet floors and Oriental rugs are throughout. The artwork and statuary are excellent, and the fresh flowers give just the perfect added touch from nature. There is nothing out of place or even slightly incongruous. Keswick Hall has only forty-eight rooms. On purchasing the property about six years ago, Orient-Express Hotels knew it had a gem that needed to be polished, upgraded, reorganized, and delicately sharpened to fit the new owner’s standards and criteria. All this it has done—and done well. Among the many attentions to detail, one of my favorites is the elevator door painted like a real door with the doorknob painted in the appropriate place. As of this writing, the general manager is Matthias Smith, who not only has talent but an exceptional vision for preserving and constantly improving the property.

Accommodations The keys to these excellent and very attractive rooms are real, not temperamental pieces of plastic. The decor is upscale but not too fancy. The mahogany furniture, brocade fabrics, silk-fringed pillows accenting the sofas, oil paintings, guilt mirrors, and view of the rolling hillsides and golf course are all very hard to surpass. There are heated towel bars in the tub area, and the towels are wonderfully large and very white. Again, the added touch of fresh flowers in the bathroom is nice. The bed was comfortable and aided in achieving a fast slumber, despite the tempting flat-screen TV.

Dining Tea in the library is served in the proper manner. Once seated, you are presented with a box of various teas. If you like, you may smell each variety

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and choose the one you wish. The tea tray of small sandwiches and scones is brought to you, a delicious, gentle, sophisticated tradition. Tea is served every afternoon in Villa Crawford. Dinner is served in Fossett’s Restaurant. This beautiful dining room, with its ceiling-to-floor windows, brings in the outdoors, resulting in a most attractive ambiance. Fossett’s is (at the time of this writing) directly behind, but not too close, to the main lobby. The menu offers an excellent selection. The night I visited, I enjoyed a tasting menu, which started with white bean soup with duck confit and ahi tuna crudo and ended with the best chocolate soufflé I have ever had. I ate the whole thing, and I am not a chocolate aficionado. Breakfast was again at Fossett’s. The rolling hills engulfed in the mountain air under the clear sky made for a beautiful morning setting. I had one egg served with Virginia bacon and piping-hot grits with a touch of chive sprinkled on top. I added a dollop of butter, and there was no question all was delicious. The coffee was good, and I enjoyed a second cup—not wanting to rush through breakfast. A buffet lunch was served in Villa Crawford and the two adjoining rooms. This meal is at the top of my lunch experiences. This buffet is not presented in the ordinary fashion. Seating is in clusters of wing chairs separated by small, circular tables. There is also a sofa flocked by a couple of chairs, and you can bring up and set your plate on a tufted bench. Once seated, you are brought a small portion of soup. The day I was there, the delicious soup was vegetable and root. The baby grand piano in the room is covered with a beautiful cloth, and you choose from salads placed on different levels. There is a chef at the “hot table.” I had an excellent piece of braised beef with steamed vegetables. The dessert table is created on one of the mahogany rectangle tables on the sidewall. The selections are just the right size. I had to choose from crème brûlée, tapioca pudding, a dollop of a chocolate delight served on an individual white porcelain spoon, and an array of tiny cookies. The executive pastry chef saw me trying to decide and said, “Try one of each.” I do what I am told—most of the time. Oh my! A good cup of coffee completed one of the most delightful lunches I’ve ever had. Guests at Keswick Hall may also dine in the Palmer Room Restaurant at the Keswick Club.

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Keswick Club There are many sports to challenge active types: shooting, fly-fishing, horseback riding, mountain biking, ballooning, and hiking, and there are five lighted tennis courts for day or evening play. There is a tennis dress code. (Yes!) All white is not required, but proper attire is expected. There are three swimming pools, a well-equipped fitness center, and, of course, the Arnold Palmer golf course. Arnold Palmer himself is quoted as saying, “These are the best greens in Virginia, probably on the East Coast.” At Keswick Club you can schedule a tee time, arrange sporting agendas, and get a massage. The spa is small, but my experience was excellent. I had a top-of-the-line massage. Although I have not yet had the pleasure, I look forward to getting the hot-poultice massage. I am sure it will be special. When visiting the property for the first time, I met Keswick Hall’s consummate general manager at the time, Anthony McHale. Hailing from Bath, England, he said that Keswick’s Virginia surroundings were much like his native turf. During his tenure McHale instigated the production of authentic, homemade English toffee, which became very popular. Keswick English toffee remains available. McHale has since moved to a property across the pond, though he stays in touch with Keswick Hall. If staying on property is not feasible, perhaps lunch or dinner and an on-site tour will fit your agenda. Like all Orient-Express holdings that I have been to, there is little doubt they know how to make the most special into a superlative.

CHARLOTTESVILLE AND ENVIRONS (EAST AND WEST) This lovely town has history and style. In 2004 it was ranked as the best place to live in the United States. It would be easy to fill pages about Charlottesville, but I am just going give the highlights. The city is a mix of compelling people, interesting historic buildings (many restored and renovated), shops of all varieties, eclectic restaurants, and an intense focus on the arts of all types. The historic downtown area

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is one of the most successful and popular pedestrian malls in the country. The medical facilities are outstanding. The countryside is beautiful. Charlottesville is growing rapidly—perhaps too rapidly.

University of Virginia 434-924-0311 www.virginia.edu

One of Thomas Jefferson’s creations at the University of Virginia is the Academical Village on the Lawn, with its pavilions, serpentine brick walls, gardens, and magnificent Rotunda. The university is known for its excellence and purpose, an unfaltering honor system, and its prowess in the world of academia. Its history is impressive. Visit the campus, walk the lawn, and see the very special Rotunda. The more you explore this unique university, the more you will appreciate it. Thank you, Thomas Jefferson and many who followed.

Monticello 931 Thomas Jefferson Pkwy. 434-984-9822 www.monticello.org

This is not just another beautiful home owned by a president or a statesman. This is the Monticello. I always feel inspired and honored to be at the home of President Thomas Jefferson, an exceptional gentleman who actually lived and worked where visitors now can walk and try to assimilate even a smattering of his brilliance. Jefferson was born in 1743. Peter Jefferson, his father, originally owned one thousand acres. Thomas Jefferson attended the College of William and Mary, and after his father’s death, he received his inheritance at age twenty-one. Law practice, marriage, the birth of his daughter, and the construction of Monticello began sequentially. Little did Jefferson or anyone else surmise what he had begun. In his early forties, Jefferson retired from law practice. He inherited eleven thousand acres and 135 slaves from his father-in-law. His mother died. His life was full, organized, and rewarding for him and for all—but it was not without challenges and sorrow. Another child was born and died. From 1801 to 1809, he served as president of the United States. Monticello continued to expand. Over the years Jefferson released several

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slaves. In 1826 Thomas Jefferson died, but not without leaving a legacy that includes the Declaration of Independence, practical inventions still used today, and a personal philosophy that we all should emulate: rise with the sun and work full tilt all day. Regardless of your philosophy, be sure to save the better part of a day to tour Monticello. The history is impressive. Nothing is enhanced with modern-day technologies. The grounds are also magnificent. You will be inspired. Ingest Monticello slowly, assiduously, and with respect. Thomas Jefferson does not infiltrate our lives often, but here you can absorb just what a force this man was and remains.

Michie Tavern 683 Thomas Jefferson Pkwy. 434-977-1234 www.michietavern.com

Established circa 1784, this place is one mile from I-64’s Exit 121 and one mile from Monticello on Route 53. Michie Tavern is a step back in time. The eighteenth century is in evidence as the staff dresses in period costumes and the meal fare is southern hearty (e.g., colonial fried chicken, hickory-smoked pork barbecue, stewed tomatoes, black-eyed peas, homemade biscuits, cornbread, and fruit cobbler for dessert). The dining room is called the “Ordinary” and arriving guests are called “strangers”—an eighteenth-century term for travelers. Be sure to tour the tavern and the outside attractions as you will need the walk after Michie’s delicious fare.

Boar’s Head Inn 200 Ednam Dr. 434-296-2181 www.boarsheadinn.com

This well-known Charlottesville inn has 170 rooms and suites, four restaurants, event spaces, championship golf, tennis facilities, swimming pools, and a spa. The Old Mill Room provides fine dining and for twenty years has received the AAA Four Diamond Award. The Café is casual with light fare. The Birdwood Grill and Bistro 1834 are both casual and closed during the slow season. Over the years, I have stayed at the Boar’s Head Inn several times. The old-world southern charm is evident in the hospitality, decor, and total

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Boar’s Head experience. Upgrades are taking place at the inn. If you are planning a weekend in Charlottesville, book your room reservations early. There are probably twenty vineyards in the surrounding Charlottesville area, but here are two alphabetically noted.

Blenheim Vineyards 31 Blenheim Farm 434-293-5366 www.blenheimvineyards.com

This small vineyard started in 2000. In 2004 Blenheim Vineyards won the Monticello Wine Cup Competition with its 2002 Petit Verdot, and obviously its reputation is expanding rapidly, a sip at a time. Tours and tastings are daily. The tastings are $5, and the extended tasting hosted by winemaker Kirsty Harmon is $25. You are given your glass to keep, and that serves as your ticket to future tastings. Blenheim is family owned and operated by the Matthews family (as in Dave Matthews). Blenheim is easy to find as it is off of I-64 and about ten miles on a windy country road that takes you through beautiful scenery and exceptional properties. Go and enjoy this petite, precocious vineyard. Kluge Estate Winery and Vineyard is a “once upon a time.” There were big hopes and dreams but a wake-up buzzer sounded, the best plans fizzled, and now the bank is at the helm. The new title is Grand Cru. You can still visit and enjoy the Farm Shop, and I definitely recommend you do so, as the foods are delicious and the setting charming.

Grand Cru 3550 Blenheim Farm 434-984-4855 www.klugeestate.com

ORANGE About thirty minutes from Charlottesville, quietly unique Orange is full of history and growing rapidly. There is a lot to see and do in this small town, and there are many little places to discover in the area.

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Willow Grove Inn 14079 Plantation Way 540-672-7001 www.bedandbreakfast.com/va-orange-theinnatwillowgrove.com

This gorgeous new inn is obviously a labor of love. The current owners, David and Charlene Scibal, hope to make it the best in Virginia, if not the United States. There is not a thing they have failed to consider or execute in the most beautiful, upscale fashion, in some instances with unique creativity. Angela Malloy and her late husband, Richard Brown, discovered this desperately needy property. In spite of its condition, they could tell it was potentially a gem. They made this gem shine, in the food, the decor, and the ambiance, but after Richard’s death, it became too much, and the property was sold. The new owners, the Scibals, have fallen so in love with their Willow Grove project that they anticipate making it an ultimate inn in every way possible. This is not an easy task, and it has required enormous funds, but it is obvious that their love and determination will soon be enjoyed by all.

Montpelier 11407 Constitution Hwy., Montpelier Station 540-672-2728 www.montpelier.org

James Madison Sr. built Montpelier in 1760. Much history about events, people, and general facts is intertwined with the history of Montpelier. Not until 1801 did James Madison Jr. inherit the property. Born in 1751, he began his political career after college and eventually became the fourth president of the United States, serving from 1809 to 1817. In 1794, he married Dolley Madison, who became not only his wife but his political partner. During the War of 1812, Dolley had many prized antiques removed from the White House for safety, including the famed portrait of George Washington by Gilbert Stuart and original drafts of the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution. Beginning in 1817, James and Dolley Madison lived at Montpelier full-time. In his latter years, he was unable to write due to severe arthritis, and Dolley took his dictation. James Madison died in 1836 at age eighty-five. After he passed

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away, Dolley moved back to Washington, DC, remaining involved in the political scene. She passed away in 1849 at age eighty-one. I consider Dolley a very positive, talented, independent woman, long before woman’s liberation and female prowess were standard, visible credentials. Dolley was obviously a strength to her husband and his endeavors, political and private, and a positive force . . . especially for a female in the 1800s. Today, Montpelier has been restored to replicate with impressive accuracy its original structure and substance. Thank goodness Montpelier was not razed. The Montpelier Foundation is now in charge. It is impressive and merits a long, slow visit.

Blue Ridge Parkway Going west on I-64 from Charlottesville, Waynesboro will be your first big town. This is where you can get on the Blue Ridge Parkway, but before doing so, be sure to have a full tank of gas and check all “checkables.” The Blue Ridge Parkway can be a brake burner, and so you should plan accordingly. This road was not built for speed. It is about 485 miles long, with 250 places to pull off the road and more than 500 other places to admire the majesty that you are privy to. There are unique restaurants and lodgings along this awesome road, as well as many places to learn and enjoy. Plan carefully and just enjoy.

STAUNTON Staunton (pronounced “STAN-ton”) is an attractive, historic city that has grown too big to call quaint. Museums, a historic area, and lots of antique shops all make this city appealing, particularly for those interested in history as Staunton was unscathed by the Civil War. There are several places of note to visit.

The Woodrow Wilson Presidential Library and Museum 20 N. Coalter St. 540-885-0897 or 888-496-6376 www.woodrowwilson.org

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This museum is easy to find.

Museum of American Frontier Culture 1290 Richmond Ave. 540-332-7850 www.frontiermuseum.org

Statler Brothers Museum 501 Thornrose Ave. 540-885-7297

The museum is about a mile from downtown. Mary Baldwin College is also in Staunton. The arrival of the Virginia Central Railroad made Staunton a transportation hub. Aside from the above-mentioned destinations, there are also the Gospel Hill Historic District and the Downtown Historic District. Indeed, there is a lot to see and do in Staunton.

Five Guys 1013 Richmond Ave. 540-885-5561 www.fiveguys.com

This is a delicious place to stop and enjoy the most delicious and basic food—hamburger and fries. (Five Guys is also mentioned in the Richmond section of this chapter.)

HOT SPRINGS

The Homestead 1766 Homestead Dr. 866-354-4653 www.thehomestead.com

This is a most special historic resort. In the 1600s, a warm spring was discovered, and this continually bubbling, natural warm-water phenom-

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enon was to change the area forever. The Native American habitants of the area were bewildered by the magic waters. In the 1700s, a white man reached this warm, bubbling pool, and the rest was soon to be history. The Homestead is said to have been founded in 1766. In 1791, Warm Springs, as it was now officially called, became the seat of Bath County. Dr. Thomas Goode acquired the Homestead in 1832 and claimed that the warm spring water could cure practically any ailment. Cabins were built, and the rush to this cure-all property began. In 1891, M. E. Ingalls, president of the C&O, acquired forty-seven hundred acres, and this land was never the same again. Ingalls and a group of financiers, in a totally private venture, purchased Warm Springs, Healing Springs, and Hot Springs. The Ingalls family owned and ran the Homestead until it was sold to Club Resorts chairman Robert Dedman. The Homestead was one of his favorite properties, and he wanted it to flourish as never before. After Mr. Dedman passed away, the ongoing responsibilities and challenges of the Homestead did not fit Club Resorts’ agenda, and it was sold to KSL Resorts. Today, this huge, elegant luxury resort offers fantastic happenings for all who visit. Seeing this structure for the first time, be it in spring, summer, fall, or winter, you will be in awe. Upon arriving you are greeted by attendants, many of whom have been there for years and years. As you enter, the long Grand Hall, with its high ceiling and massive columns, dwarfs you. You immediately feel the Homestead’s warmth, old-world charm, sophistication, and character. Nothing is ostentatious. Check-in is efficient, and you are shown quickly to your room to begin a most memorable visit.

Accommodations The rooms come in all sizes. All are attractive, and the views from most are mountain supreme. For a few years, the rooms were not kept up to snuff. Upgrades were needed. In the bathrooms there was little space for placing toiletries. Many of the obvious had been overlooked. As of this writing, I am told that the rooms have been redone with plenty of attention to detail. I have total faith that KSL will make all the upgrades without sacrificing the traditions and old-world character of this wonderful grand dame.

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Dining Breakfast consists of a lavish buffet served in the Main Dining Room. There is also an omelet station. All enjoy the joyful voices, the sun shining through the big windows, the early-morning enthusiasm, and seeing friends and family. Lunch is served in various places. Check with the concierge. Dinner in the Main Dining Room is a delight. The service is good, the menu excellent, and the dance floor inviting. Seeing grandchildren dancing with a parent or grandparent is special. Dancing in the dining room is a tradition. Be sure to make a reservation. The chic 1766 Grille is also a delightful place to have dinner, with its piano music and upscale ambiance. Here, too, be sure to make a reservation. After dinner there are the President’s Lounge and Player’s Pub, where the DJ keeps all dancing and the ambiance is robust. Tea, served with sandwiches and cookies, is a wonderful Homestead tradition. Everyone congregates in the Grand Hall, coming in from skiing, skating, or other activities. Music fills the air. It is a wonderful way to warm up, regroup, and then take a swim or a nap before dinner.

Sports and Activities A shuttle bus leaves every fifteen minutes or so from the front of the hotel, goes up to the ski area, and returns. Skiing: The slopes are not the most difficult, but they can still be a challenge. In the ski area, you can snowboard, and there is also tubing. The snowmaking machines, when temperatures permit, keep the slopes in shape. The ski instructors are very good for all ages. This area is excellent for young children to learn the sport. There is a place to eat and warm up, as well as a wonderful deck to sit, bundled up in the sun, and just watch the skiers and skaters with pink cheek and big smiles. Ice-skating: The setting is picturesque, and the ice is excellently maintained. If skating is not on your agenda, then go and watch. It is most enjoyable. Fill your lungs with the cold air and get that cold weather glow, but without tired ankles. Spa: A full spa is on property for your enjoyment. I found it enjoyable. You can have a manicure and a pedicure and also visit the beauty parlor. Reservations are necessary.

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The Jefferson Pools: These are a must. The hotel offers a complementary shuttle there and back. The Jefferson Pools are the originals. They are warm, spring-fed pools—one for ladies and one for men. There are two circular wooden buildings with small cubicles for changing (they are not heated, brrrr). An attendant gives you a big towel and shows you where to go. Bathing can be done au naturel if you like. “Taking the waters” is supposed to be absolutely beneficial to one, inside and outside, as the waters contain a large variety of minerals. The water temperature is about 98 degrees. Once in the water, you are very comfortable—especially when the weather is chilly. If you indulge in the winter, forget fashion and take extrawarm clothes, socks, boots, gloves, and a hat to put on as fast as you can when you get out. Cold Weather Suggestion: Leave clothes in such a way that you can get quickly dressed—and I do mean quickly. Your warm, relaxed body stays warm in cold weather about as long as it takes you to say “warm.” Hat, gloves, socks, and scarf feel mighty good. Personal Cold Note: One December I had a school friend with me, and I convinced her to join me in the Jefferson Pools. The weather was very cold. After our soak, as we waited for the shuttle back to the hotel, we had our picture taken holding our bathing suits, which had quickly frozen stiff. It was very cold.

Other activities: There is golf, horseback riding for all ages and levels, skeet and trap shooting, falconry, fly-fishing, hiking, bowling, and more. There are also indoor activities, which can range from wine tastings to cooking classes, fashion shows, and dancing lessons. Check the hotel schedule and with the concierge for events for both children and adults. There are several tempting shops in the hotel and on Cottage Row, which are individual shops outside the main building. Driving Diva Note: I have a very long association with the Homestead. As a young girl, I would get on the train in New York with my family, ride in the sleeper car, and sleep in the Pullman beds. When we woke up, we were

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136 | Romancing the Roads at the Homestead. The Homestead Pullman car would be left at the Hot Springs station, and the train went on. It was a very civilized train trip. Unfortunately, the train service stopped. As the years progressed, I exposed my boys to the Homestead tradition, and now grandchildren are enjoying it as well. The Homestead is very special, and I am not alone in thinking so.

Hot Springs Proper The walk into the tiny town is short. There is the original drugstore, the Hot Springs Pharmacy. When I was a little girl, I felt so grown up when I was allowed to walk down to the pharmacy by myself to get a coke at the soda fountain (now closed). The local boys and girls were there! Oh, to have pictures of my soda fountain adventure. Today, the town has a post office and an ABC store. Along Main Street, there are the William M. Grover Galleries (540-839-2399), the DuckIn Deli & Subway (540-839-3000), and Quilts Unlimited (540-8395955).

Laura’s Boutique & Loft 2840 Main St. 540-839-2619

What a creative collection of apparel, shoes, and accessories! There is something for every season and everyone, including a beautiful selection of formal wear. There is a real Laura, and what an excellent job of buying she does. You may not find what you are looking for in upscale chains, but there is a good chance you’ll find it in Laura’s Boutique. Of course, Laura’s smile and personality are not lost in her special shop.

Sam Snead’s Tavern 2849 Main St. 540-839-7666 www.samsneadstavern.com

This is a tavern to enjoy. Operated under the Homestead’s auspices, it is not fancy, but the food is delicious and fine. Of course, if you are a golfer, you will wish that a bit of “Slammin’ Sam’s” talent would swing your way.

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He was quite a man, a great raconteur and joke teller, and what a golfer. Go and enjoy this tavern.

Homestead Market 7749 Sam Snead Hwy. 540-839-7845

This market has fancy foods and such. In the area, there are several bed-and-breakfasts and a motel or two.

Chamber of Commerce/Visitors Center 2696 Main St., Ste. 4 540-839-5409 www.discoverbath.com

This is at the far end of town by the firehouse, where the old Homestead stables used to be. The staff will be glad to see you and answer any questions.

ABINGDON (POPULATION APPROXIMATELY 8,000) Just over the border from Tennessee, this enchanting town in the highlands of Virginia is easily accessible from I-81 and many other highways. Abingdon is absolutely charming. The first time I visited, I was immediately enamored and have remained so with each subsequent trip. The downtown historic district has many shops, some even depicting life in the pre–Civil War era. There is also the renowned Barter Theatre.

Barter Theatre 127 W. Main St. 276-628-3991 www.bartertheatre.com

In 1933, enterprising actor Robert Porterfield offered, “With vegetables you cannot sell, you can buy a good laugh.” Admission was forty

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cents or the equal in produce. That first year, the theater made $4.35 and numerous pounds of veggies. And so it started. Today, the Barter is one of the oldest professional theaters in the nation. It no longer accepts produce. Real cash gets the ticket, a good show, and possibly a laugh or two.

Martha Washington Inn 150 W. Main St. 276-628-3161 www.marthawashingtoninn.com

I have stayed at this charming, well-appointed, beautiful, and friendly inn several times and recommend it highly. The former residence of General and Mrs. Francis Preston and their nine children, this beautiful home was built in 1832 for $15,000. When the Prestons sold it in 1858, the price was $21,000. It then became the upscale Martha Washington College for women, called “The Martha” by students and locals. For over seventy years the college functioned—throughout the Civil War and the Depression—until it closed in 1932. In 1935, the building reopened as a hotel and was used as a residence for performing actors such as Ned Beatty, Patricia Neal, and Ernest Borgnine. Of course, there were also hotel guest, such as President Harry Truman, Elizabeth Taylor, and Eleanor Roosevelt. A ghost or two purportedly still reside there. In 1984 a group of serious businessmen, realizing the importance of the property and its outstanding structure, purchased the building and started an $8 million renovation. Today, the Martha Washington has truly outdone itself. A natatorium (an indoor swimming pool, which I look forward to seeing) has been built, and from the pictures, it is truly beautiful. The glass enclosed pool area with retractable ceiling is state-of-the-art. A spa, six treatment rooms, and an outstanding fitness center have also been added. It is not hard to enjoy the Martha Washington, the only problem being that your stay will not be long enough. The accommodations are attractive and comfortable with the appropriate decor and amenities. The southern ambiance and dining are delightful and delicious. The hotel and spa packages offer exceptional value. If you cannot stay on property, be sure to visit and see the Martha in all its beauty.

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Moonlite Drive-In Movie Theater 17555 Lee Hwy. 276-628-7881

This movie theater has been open from April through October since 1948. Everyone should go to a drive-in at least once in his or her lifetime. Beware, you just might become addicted as it is truly a fun way to see a movie and, if with a date, snitch a smooch. This drive-in is only a few miles outside of Abingdon. Just ask; everyone knows the Moonlite. Have fun.

ROANOKE This Blue Ridge Mountain town has more aspects to it than I initially realized, so exploring and discovering should be on your agenda. On my first visit, I stayed at the Hotel Roanoke.

Hotel Roanoke 110 Shenandoah Ave. 540-985-5900 www.hotelroanoke.com

This large hotel built in 1882 is indeed impressive and has been renovated. I cannot give an updated observation as it was sold out during my last visit.

Colony House Motor Lodge 3560 Franklin Rd. 540-345-0411 www.colonyhousemotorlodge.com

This well-run, unpretentious, clean, and friendly lodge is a nice place to stay. It is convenient to the Tanglewood shopping area, which is only a couple of miles from downtown and provides easy access off the interstate. The rooms are a nice size, and some have a microwave and refrigerator. There is a swimming pool on the property. The rates are very sensible and include a casual continental breakfast. Of course, parking is on property.

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There are seventy-two units, and I was informed that there are coinoperated washers and dryers. This lodge was built in the 1950s, so enjoy a step back in time with up-to-date amenities.

Table 50 309 Market St. 540-904-2350 www.table50roanoke.com

Table 50 is a wonderful, not-too-large restaurant in historic downtown Roanoke. Eric DiLauro and Michael Caudill are the chefs-owners. From the moment I walked in, friendliness and laughter permeated the air. The staff was efficient and friendly. I came to Table 50 for a celebration the night before a wedding. What a joyous place! The hors d’oeuvres were plentiful and a wonderful mix. Dinner was absolutely superb. We started with sautéed mushrooms in puff pastry followed by the most perfect filet mignon, spoonbread, and French green beans. My notes are scant for the rest of the evening as so much was going on. All I can say is that everything was perfect. Table 50 is open for lunch, dinner, and private events. Make a reservation. You’ll be glad.

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WEST VIRGINIA

est Virginia’s highways pass through beautiful countryside, but there are long stretches without service areas or anything around. Plan accordingly.

W

The Greenbrier 300 W. Main St., White Sulphur Springs 304-536-1110 or 800-453-4858 www.greenbrier.com

There is no question that the Greenbrier is among the top resorts in the United States. It is in a unique and special category. A, it is awesome; B, it is beautiful; C, it is colossal; D, it is delightful; E, it is exceptional; F, it is fashionably flamboyant; G, it is the Greenbrier, and there is nothing quite like it. It is a Four Star, Five Diamond resort on a mere sixty-five hundred acres. The Greenbrier, also referred to as the Old White, was owned for years by the C&O Railroad and its successor, CSX. During World War II, it served as a hospital and relocation center for a few years. For a while, it was on tenuous ground, and in 2009 the hotel went into bankruptcy. Then, shall we say, a miracle took place in the name of Jim Justice. This West Virginia entrepreneur purchased the Greenbrier, settled the brouhaha involving the Marriot Corporation, and resolved all debts. This was a totally new enterprise for Justice, but it was quickly observed that he had nothing

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but the very best interests of the Old White on his agenda. Paramount was keeping the style, ambiance, and caliber undiminished, yet making the necessary upgrades. The newest addition is the fantastic Casino Club (see below).

Background What started as a resort for the elite, with therapeutic mineral waters and staff to meet guests’ every need, has grown and expanded while maintaining the original goals. After World War II, Dorothy Draper, a creative and innovative New York interior decorator, was given the huge task of reviving and refurbishing the Greenbrier. Her artistic mixes of brilliant colors in flamboyant but elite and chic presentations were spectacular and innovative. The public rooms are huge and lend themselves to these presentations extremely well. This decor also conveys a feeling of joy. Upon entering the Old White, you know you have arrived at a most special place. Carlton Varney, Draper’s protégé now at the helm of Dorothy Draper & Co., has continued with the colorful, brilliant palate and the boisterously beautiful and unique presentations. The more you look, the more wide-eyed and appreciative you become. Many may find this decor perplexing at first. In time you will enjoy it and be glad to have experienced this unique garden of oversized flowers, plants, and designs that cover the massive walls.

Accommodations There are 643 guest rooms as well as suites and cottages. The accommodations are beautiful. The bedrooms are spacious, colorful, and comfortable. From the moment I walk into a Greenbrier bedroom, I feel calm, special, and joyous. Details of all sizes are in place have been attended to (i.e., in the bathrooms, the plumbing under the sinks is hidden behind louvered doors). I have stayed in several different rooms, and each room is different. With children and family, a cottage is ideal. If you find flaws at the Old White, they will probably be small, and they will probably be the only small things you find at this brilliant, huge property.

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Dining The Main Dining Room is a delight for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Appropriate dress is the format; yes, you dress up for dinner, though whether you opt for black tie is up to you. (It is not a requirement.) It is well organized. Soft music plays in the background, and there is dancing on the weekends. The warm cornbread served soon after you sit down is soft and delicious. It is easy to eat too much before the meal. Don’t! You feel regal dining when the table is set with two or three forks, two knives, and two spoons, and all are shining. The dining room decor is old-world, with portraits and mahogany furniture. There are fifteen eating venues. I adore the Main Dining Room, and Draper’s is also delightful. The new Prime 44 West is steak house scrumptious. I am sure that no eating spot on property will disappoint.

Casino Elegant, with a challenging, competitive atmosphere, the new 103,000-square-foot Casino Club at the Greenbrier is a sensational addition to the grand dame. This world-class gaming club offers live entertainment, gourmet dining, and exquisite boutiques. There are 320 state-of-the-art slot machines and thirty-seven table games: blackjack, roulette, baccarat, three-card poker, craps, and Texas hold ’em. Opened while the Casino Club was being built, the thirty-sevenhundred-square-foot Tavern Casino, below Prime 44 West, has table games as well as slots. It is perfect for smaller groups or private gatherings. While I have been to the Tavern Casino, the Casino Club was not completed when I visited. Good Luck! Note: Jackets are required for men; dress pants, skirts, or dresses are a must for ladies.

Activities Practically every sport imaginable is available. If you golf, you will be playing where most of the greats have also played. There are three eighteen-hole golf

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courses. Sam Snead, for the last years of his life, was the resort’s emeritus pro. Now Tom Watson holds the title. The Ryder and Solheim cups have both been held at the Greenbrier. There is the palatial indoor swimming pool as well as the beautiful outdoor pool. You’ll find tennis, horseback riding, hiking, and more. During the winter, there is outdoor ice-skating. Shopping, in a way, is a sporting activity. There are many shops to enjoy and indulge in.

Spa Here you will enjoy every second as you are rejuvenated in toto. Take a sulfur soak or get a massage. The spa area is quiet, restful, and very professionally run. The decor is of subdued colors. I recently enjoyed “Kate’s Mountain Kur,” a wonderful eighty-minute treatment. It could have lasted many times longer with no complaint from me. It starts with a mineral bath followed by a signature black walnut scrub. Then, all is completed with a petite massage using the spa’s signature finishing lotion. The spa is another Greenbrier “must,” so call for an appointment—even better, appointments. A very special aspect of the Greenbrier is the staff. Every member is loyal, proficient, and exceptional. Each is so essential. Many have been on property for years. See the commemorative plaques. Lynn Swann is director of public relations. The property is lucky to have this knowledgeable and experienced person on the staff.

Bunker This once-secret bunker was built to house members of Congress in case of a nuclear attack. An absolutely fascinating engineering masterpiece, this underground city is open to the public, and I recommend that you visit. The bunker was fully readied and stocked for over thirty years, but it was never used. When you see the medical and communication centers and all the other facilities, you will be amazed that its existence was a secret. Little did hotel guests getting off the elevator on the “E” level, for the Exhibition Hall, realize that behind a hidden panel was a

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door to the bunker. In 1992 the Washington Post revealed the facility’s existence, and it was decommissioned. Be sure to tour the Bunker, as you will be in awe.

Clinic

Greenbrier Clinic 320 W. Main St. 800-362-7798 www.greenbrier.com

To rave about the Clinic would take pages. Suffice it to say that I think this “Oasis of Diagnostic Excellence since 1948” is probably unmatchable. Whether you are noticing a symptom or feeling splendid, a checkup will not hurt. FYI: While at the Clinic, you might be put on a special liquid diet. Have no fear. You still eat in the Main Dining Room, and your chosen liquid diet is served subtly in silver dishes, and Jell-O comes in a beautiful goblet. Amazing how these “bland items” take on a different character when served in such a manner.

Personal story: At the Clinic they found something “extra” in my throat. In time, I had surgery, and I am here to write about it. The kicker is that I had recently had a total physical where I lived, and the zit was missed. The Clinic found it. Thank you, Greenbrier Clinic! A visit to the Greenbrier is a wonderful and memorable experience. There are few resorts of its ilk. Leaving the Greenbrier and heading west on I-64, here are some places you’ll pass. • • • • •

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Exit 169: Lewisburg Historic District Exit 156: Sam Black Church Exit after 156: Lick Duck Baptist Church Exit 60: Plum Orchard Lake Wildlife Management Area Exit 44/45: Tamarack

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146 | Romancing the Roads Driving Diva Note: Stop at Tamarack! It is a special place.

Tamarack One Tamarack Park, Beckley 304-256-6843 or 888-262-7225 (88-TAMARACK) www.tamarackwv.com

Enjoy the best of West Virginia. Upon entering this large circular building, you are greeted at the information desk by a friendly, knowledgeable staff ready to answer your questions. Here you will find beautiful, one-of-a kind items made by West Virginia artisans. The variety is extensive. The aromas will alert you to the culinary items there to tempt you too. These West Virginia products make wonderful gifts. Tamarack is one of the best roadside places to enjoy a meal. It is cafeteria style with foods furnished by the Greenbrier. So delicious! Whether you chose a big meal or light fare, it will be tasty. Save room for dessert. The prices are not exorbitant. Meal recommendation: Try a loaded hot dog and beverage, followed by a dessert of freestone peaches and ice cream with a Greenbrier cup of coffee. FYI: The restrooms are excellent.

BECKLEY (POPULATION APPROXIMATELY 18,000)

Merritt House B&B 1518 Harper Rd. 304-253-5944

This bed-and-breakfast is easy to find off Exit 44, although it sits back off the road surrounded by boxwoods, rhododendrons, and big trees. A large 1920s home named for its long-time owners Dr. and Mrs. Charles Merritt, it is now owned by Sallie and Ron Shrewsbury, who will immediately make you feel welcome. The main floor has a large living room and

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nice-size dining room. The bedrooms (there are three) are a comfortable size with all the amenities. Breakfast was huge and delicious. The prices are very reasonable. From reports, there are quite a few places to visit in the area.

Daniel Vineyards 200 Twin Oaks Rd., Crab Orchard 304-252-9750 or 877-378-1990 www.danielvineyards.com

Daniel Vineyards is located three miles south of Beckley.

Exhibition Coal Mine 513 Ewart Ave. 304-256-1747 www.beckley.org/exhibition_coal_mine

Youth Museum of Southern West Virginia 509 Ewart Ave. 304-252-3730 www.beckley.org/youth_museum

Little Brick House 1818 Harper Rd. 304-253-7242 www.mtstgolf.com

Mountain State Miniature Golf 1818 Harper Rd. 304-253-7242 www.mtstgolf.com

I hear this venue is unique and creative.

HUNTINGTON (POPULATION APPROXIMATELY 51,500) In this town of about fifteen square miles, construction was prevalent when I visited. Immediately you can see that downtown Huntington is a city with

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a past, and some structural relics remain. One building that stands out is the old, historic Keith-Albee Theatre.

Keith-Albee Theatre 925 4th Ave. 304-525-4440

Pullman Plaza 1001 Third Ave. 304-525-1001

Formerly the Radisson Hotel, Pullman Plaza changed its name because, after twenty years, it needed to attune itself more to the area and its landmarks. This hotel is easy to find. Valet parking is available, or if lucky, you will find street parking on the block across from the hotel. The staff was friendly and knowledgeable. Though not a fancy property, it is a comfortable one. The lobby is attractive, as is everything at the hotel. The Pullman’s goal is 100 percent guest satisfaction. My room was clean and the decor satisfactory. A large desk had computer outlets and a lamp. I liked the long wall mirror. In theory, the wall lights on each side of the bed were good, but the on-off switch was far too high. I enjoyed a great view of the working Ohio River, which is just a short distance from the hotel. The bathroom was clean, but the knobs on the tub were mismarked. There was a Jacuzzi and a good safety bar by the tub. Oh my! A horseshoe toilet seat! Not good. The magnifying mirror was nice; just don’t look too closely. This nice hotel is convenient to downtown, and all travelers to the area should consider it.

Shopping The Village Collection 900 Fourth Ave. 304-525-2204

This shop was very attractive and had a very good selection of apparel.

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I was told of antique shops on Fourteenth Street, but I did not have time to shop there. I drove by the area, and indeed there were quite a few.

DRIVING DIVA’S WEST VIRGINIA IMPORTANT ROAD INFO • I-77 is the West Virginia Turnpike: “Barrier” is their word for tollbooth. • Pay strict attention to signs reading, “Warning Curves Ahead: 55 mph.” Obey! • “Transponder Only”: This is another way of saying “EZPass.” • Those mounds of sand on the roadsides are “runaway ramps.” When a truck gets going too fast, the driver can run it up the sand to slow it down.

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KENTUCKY

he interstates in Kentucky are generally very good, and the scenery is beautiful. There are long stretches of interstate without much around, so be sure to keep track of identification markers—just in case you have to let someone know where you are. I speak from experience!

T

Interstate Happening: My front tire peeled flat. Heart beating in double time, I called a state trooper. I was among the first to experience the huge tire glitch facing the industry. It was late in the afternoon, and I was anxious to get to my destination. In a firm voice, a state trooper asked, “Where are you? Do you see any signs? What was the last thing you saw?” I knew that I was on the interstate, and the last thing I had taken notice of was lots of trees—very stupid me! “Stay there, Lady. We’ll find you. Don’t get out of your car, and don’t open your windows if someone comes by.” The minutes dragged, and sure enough, some man in a pickup stopped and shouted, “Can I help you?” I motioned no. When I saw that state trooper’s car, I was ecstatic. Thank you! AAA came. On a donut tire, I made it to the next town, and—thank you, God!—there was a tire place open. With two new tires, I was on my way! Strangely, I put the two bad tires in the car. I was going to show them to the dealer when I returned home. One tire I kept, but somewhere during the odyssey, I was informed that tires were needed for fencing. Well, I helped build a fence.

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The moral of this story is that glitches can happen when you travel. Be as prepared as possible. Know where you are, and keep track of identifying markers. Renew your AAA membership. Help if you can as you travel.

HARRODSBURG Established in 1774, Harrodsburg, Kentucky’s oldest town, was the first permanent settlement in the United States west of the Alleghenies. You can experience living history at Old Fort Harrod State Park.

Old Fort Harrod State Park 100 S. College St. 859-734-3314 www.stateparks.com/old_fort_harrod.html

Here, you can see original artifacts and people in period costumes performing such tasks as tin smithing, doll making, blacksmithing, and broom making. Also on the grounds are the Mansion Museum and the James Harrod Amphitheater.

Beaumont Inn 638 Beaumont Inn Dr. 800-352-3992 www.beaumontinn.com

An absolutely delightful place to stay in the heart of bluegrass country, the Beaumont Inn has been welcoming guests since the 1800s. As you drive toward the inn, you will pass some of the most famous racing stables in the country, if not in the world. Originally built as a girls’ school, the Beaumont became an inn around 1880. It has been run by the Dedman family for four generations. The Victorian decor blends with an abundant mix of antiques and southern hospitality, and the culinary presentations are outrageously delicious. The menu includes such items as fried chicken and country ham served with green beans, whipped potatoes, and corn pudding; or choose a double-thick, stuffed, French-cut pork chop, steak, or herb-crusted sole filet. Dessert includes flourless chocolate cake served

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with crème Chantilly and raspberry sauce, orange-lemon cake served à la mode, or prune cake served à la mode with bourbon sauce. Of course, there is a “take-home special”—a dozen biscuits filled with chopped country ham. There is nothing pretentious about this property; the people are easygoing and the whole experience is like a step back in time, from the soft peal of the dinner bell to the “Beaumont cocktail”—a glass of ice water placed by your bed at night. In case you want to sample a little bit of the Beaumont Inn at home, here is one of the most often requested recipes:

Beaumont Inn’s Corn Pudding 2 cups white, whole-kernel corn or fresh corn cut off the cob 4 eggs 8 level tablespoons flour 1 quart milk 4 rounded teaspoons sugar 4 tablespoons butter, melted 1 teaspoon salt Stir together the corn, flour, salt, sugar, and butter. Beat the eggs well; put them into the milk, then stir into the corn and put mixture into a pan or Pyrex dish. Bake at 450 degrees for about forty to forty-five minutes. Stir the mixture vigorously with a long-pronged fork three times, at approximately ten-minute intervals, while baking, disturbing the top as little as possible. (I must learn this technique.) The Beaumont Inn has a new addition, the Old Owl Tavern. The name derives from the Dedman family’s Kentucky Owl Bourbon Whiskey, which was distilled along the Kentucky River before Prohibition. The building originally housed the carriages and horses that brought the young girls to the prestigious school. (Remember the Beaumont Inn was formerly a girls’ school.) Much of the original structure remains, which only adds to the ambiance of the Old Owl Tavern. Billed as providing “Casual Food. Casual Prices. Casual Atmosphere,” it sounds to me like another must. Driving in Kentucky you will see honest-to-goodness bluegrass. No, it is not royal blue, but it is bluer than real green.

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LEXINGTON There are two main roads into Lexington, Versailles (pronounced “Versells”) and Harrodsburg (pronounced “Harrodsburg”). Both take you through beautiful rolling countryside, with horses grazing on the legendary bluegrass.

Campbell House (now Crowne Plaza) 1375 Harrodsburg Rd. 859-255-4281

Since its inception as the Campbell House, this destination property has had several revivals. Whether as a landmark hotel, a prom-night center, or a good old boy’s hotel, it’s always been a happening place, where people have carried on with or without the help of Kentucky bourbon. When I visited, the hotel was undergoing a renovation, a restoration, a rebirth—a mighty challenge since the property, with all of its lives, had not been taken care of. I was told that I would be welcome but would have to put up with major construction. Southern hospitality was in abundance from the beginning to the end of my stay. Notwithstanding the construction equipment around the place, parking and check-in were relatively easy. The main lobby is large and rather formal with a lot of dark woods and heavy decor. This is a big building, and it takes a bit of memorizing to find your way around (more signage, please!). The halls (then) tended to be very long and drab. I had one of the big suites, which, despite being a nice treat, had a look that I call movie-set Mafia: dark, heavy, and filled with brocades and many large accessories. My accommodation was roomy and comfortable. I tried to no avail to contact some of the hotel’s associates to see what upgrades have taken place. Here are a few of my observations; many have probably been taken care of. There was no door on the bathroom, the Jacuzzi switch was out of reach, and there was no separate switch for the bathroom fan and no place to put the very heavy bedspread. The fact that the side doors of the hotel were not locked at night did not give a good feeling. There should also be phones in the hallways in case of emergency or to ask for directions back to your room.

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This property has one of the best hotel gift shops I’ve ever enjoyed. Shop owner Madonna’s inventory is tasteful, colorful, well-chosen, and more sensibly priced than not. It’s hard to walk out without buying something. Kilbern’s, the large dining room near the main lobby, is open for lunch and dinner. My dinner was fine—maybe a little too robust in quantity and presentation. The idea that a lot of froufrou and a packed dinner plate is appealing is lost on me. Less is more! Update: It has been a few of years since I was at the Campbell House, and it is now part of the Crowne Plaza chain. From all reviews and reports, a lot has been done to the property. From the photos, the pool area and public rooms are improved, and a martini bar has been added. The gift shop is still under the auspices of Madonna, but it now is called the Crowne Plaza Gift Shop.

Places of Interest

Stephan Lawrence Ltd. 1200 S. Broadway 859-231-7707 www.sllupscaleresale.com

Located across from the Crowne Plaza, this gem of a place is an upscale resale boutique and more! What a delightful, well-organized, sensibly priced shop, which also sells furniture! I found a treasure or two there. When checking, I discovered there are two other shops under the aegis of owner Connie Broom Hall.

Stephan Lawrence Ltd. 2051 Richmond Rd. 859-293-5430 www.sllupscaleresale.com

Après Vous 183 Moore Dr. 859-275-5577 www.sllupscaleresale.com

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Ashland 120 Sycamore Rd. 859-266-8581 www.henryclay.org

This historic estate of Henry Clay is a gem. Rather than overpowering, it is intimate enough that you can easily put yourself in the Clay household of the early 1800s. I recommend visiting the estate in the morning and then enjoying a box lunch from the Ginkgo Tree Café (859-221-5666) nearby. If you’re into history, check out these other historic sites in Lexington:

Hunt-Morgan House 201 N. Mill St. 859-253-0362 www.bluegrasstrust.org/hunt-morgan.htm

Waveland State Historic Site 225 Waveland Museum Ln. 859-272-3611 www.parks.ky.gov/findparks/histparks/wl

Mary Todd Lincoln House 578 W. Main St. 859-233-9999 www.mtlhouse.org

Keeneland Race Course 4201 Versailles Rd. 859-254-3412 or 800-456-3412 www.keeneland.com

This beautiful place is an alternative site for enjoying the Kentucky Derby (on television, of course). Little has changed since it was built in 1935. It was the setting for many of the scenes in the 2003 film Seabiscuit. Whether it is Derby Day or not, a visit to the Keeneland Race Course will give you a touch of the real Kentucky racing world. Driving Diva Factoid: In 1789 Kentucky had more horses than people.

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156 | Romancing the Roads Driving Diva Tip: A proper Kentucky mint julep is not an open-the-bottleand-pour type of drink. Some preparation is required. To be absolutely proper, use a bright, polished, sterling silver julep cup, and have on hand crushed ice and an extra sprig of fresh mint covered in powdered sugar. Take a handful of fresh mint and crush it in your hands. Place it in 1 cup of water and 1⁄3 cup sugar. Boil and then strain. You now have real mint syrup. Pour the syrup into your silver cup with 1.5 ounces of bourbon and mix. Fill with crushed ice and top with a sprig of fresh mint dipped in powdered sugar. The second and third juleps are easier to make.

Richmond Road in Lexington takes you to several interesting shops.

Sassy Fox 3101 Richmond Rd. #312 859-266-5138

This pretty serious consignment shop has a large selection of bridal gowns—if you are in the market for such. There are lots of tempting items. In another part of town, the Talbots Surplus store might be of interest.

Talbots Surplus Vendor Way 859-264-8725 www.talbots.com

Aside from horses, what could be more Kentucky than bourbon?

Buffalo Trace Distillery 113 Great Buffalo Trace, Frankfort (Franklin County) 502-696-5926 or 800-654-8471 www.buffalotrace.com

Definitely worth a visit, this world-class distillery got its name from the paths (“traces”) made by buffalo along the Kentucky River. You can learn a lot about bourbon in very nice surroundings at this distillery. The sampling of the product was a nice perk, and there is a big selection of company products in the gift shop. Call for tour hours, directions, and the like.

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LOUISVILLE Louisville is an upscale city with a lot of old-world charm. I am most familiar with its Fourth Avenue and West Broadway area, where the Brown, the Seelbach, and the Louisville Palace Theater are located.

Louisville Palace Theater 625 S. Fourth St. 502-583-4555 www.louisvillepalace.com

The Palace Theater is a magnificent, ornate masterpiece. Even without a performance on stage, the theater will give you a show in itself. The acoustics are superb, and the theater awesome. Within walking distance is the Fourth Street Live! complex.

Fourth Street Live! 400 S. Fourth St. 502-584-7170 www.4thstlive.com

Once a hub, then a ghost town, this area is now having a renaissance. It vibrates with many entertainment, retail, and dining choices.

The Brown 335 W. Broadway 502-583-1234 www.brownhotel.com

To stay at this fabulous boutique hotel is to experience excellence on every level. Everything is manicured and maintained. The service is professional and friendly. If staying on property is not on the agenda, then one should at least visit this fine hotel to see the antiques, brocades, and Oriental rugs that adorn the lobby. Punctuating the large lobby area are potted palms and large Oriental vases with green foliage. Be sure to note the two “courting” chairs and the two massive, tall Oriental urns. All combined, the lobby is a work of art. Originally built in 1923, the Brown has had many successes, challenges, and closings. What matters is that it has survived; in 1990 the

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Camberley Hotel Company purchased the property and returned it to its magnificent splendor. As of 2008, it is owned by 1859 Historic Hotels. The Brown Hotel is where the famous “Hot Brown” (an open-faced turkey sandwich covered with Mornay sauce) was created, and you can enjoy this outstanding treat at J. Graham’s Café. There are other culinary choices in this more informal setting. The English Grill, a AAA Four Diamond restaurant, deserves the accolade. Reservations are required and jackets recommended. The Thoroughbred Room is now used primarily for private dining and special occasions. The Lobby Bar is a favorite meeting place. It is small but just right, and on Friday and Saturday evenings, piano music plays in the background. Delightful! The Brown Hotel, located in downtown, is a four-diamond, four-star property with 293 attractively appointed rooms. Each room has Egyptian cotton sheets, a white, goose-down comforter, and a throw featuring horses racing at the Derby—a very apropos and attractive touch. The excellent service includes such amenities as a complementary shoe shine and a hot water bottle placed in your bed at turn down (if you wish it). One can always find some detail that could be fined-tuned, but basically all is excellent here at this wonderful boutique hotel. The fabric skirt on the sink, hiding the pipes, is most attractive and should be copied by other properties. Plumbing does not enhance the decor. The Club Floor is excellent in so many ways. It is attractively decorated, the selection of foods and beverages is well considered, and the staff is very helpful and knowledgeable. Throughout this property, southern graciousness prevails. Dress appropriately. The Brown Hotel is easy to find, and parking is convenient. The Brown Gift/Antique Shop is among the several exquisite shops on the property.

Seelbach Hilton 500 Fourth Ave. 502-585-3200 www.seelbachhilton.com

This historic grand hotel is situated on Fourth Avenue. In the late 1870s, Louis Seelbach opened his Seelbach’s Restaurant, then, with the help of his younger brother in 1886, opened a new thirty-room hotel. In 1902 the brothers and local investors, sparing no expense, began building

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the Seelbach. The marble, bronzes, hardwoods, linens, and rugs were all the finest. The hotel cost the then unheard-of sum of $950,000. It opened in 1905 to huge fanfares and such success that a 154-room addition was completed in 1907. The public rooms were extravagant. The Bavarianstyle Rathskeller, with its rare Rookwood pottery tiles, can still be seen today. Also to be seen is the Al Capone Room, with its spring door and secret panel. In 1926, the hotel was sold, but its history continued. In 1956 and 1968, it was sold again; then, it closed in 1975. In 1976, a Baltimore investor bought the Seelbach and another hotel for $245,000 but could not raise the funds for renovations. In 1978, it was sold again, followed by more financial dealings, stock options, and so forth. In 1982 it was restored to its former grandeur and received many awards. Today, it operates under the aegis of the Hilton Corporation. Today, I find that the Seelbach retains its original opulence, but commercialism has taken hold. The front-desk and concierge service was first-rate. Dining in the Oakroom was excellent and expensive. (I have learned that there is now a new chef.) I liked the touch of sprinkling a few rose petals on the table, which accents the silver mint julep cup filled with roses. Otto’s Café is attractive with horse-racing decor, and there is a Starbuck’s coffee shop. My room accommodations were okay. I liked the old, heavy mahogany main doors. The doors of the entertainment cabinet were annoying as they did not fold out of the way. The bathroom needs fine tuning and definitely a table or shelf as the marble sink top is too small to hold many items and the glass shelf was not wide (mine was loose from the wall). Lighting was not great. FYI: When you make your reservation, state whether you want a tub, shower, or both. If you don’t, you’ll get what they select.

The Concierge Level was a minus, a minus, and another minus! (Hopefully this report is now incorrect.) I went several times and received no greeting or help. I asked for water and was told, “In the kitchen in the concierge area!” The coffee was weak and served in Styrofoam cups! The

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pastries were huge, unattractive, not tasty, and not healthy. The plates were too small to put a huge bagel on. Nothing was warm! The Seelbach is an attractive property with a great history. I dislike criticizing such a grand dame, but this is how I found it. There were definitely more pluses than minuses, but the minuses were there. Be sure to visit and take a tour. Hopefully fine tuning has started and is ongoing. Note: Fourth Street has lots of small trinket shops, a major drugstore, and such. Walking is fine in the daytime; from what I saw, I wouldn’t recommend doing so late at night—especially not for females alone. Observation: When checking data, sources alternately referred to Fourth “Street” or “Avenue.” You figure.

There are all sorts of shops in the area—the regulars and standards— but then there is Seng Jewelers.

Seng Jewelers 453 S. Fourth Ave. 502-585-5109 www.sengjewelers.com

On your right as you walk toward the mall, Seng is that special kind of shop where you have to ring the doorbell to enter, and a guard’s eyes are constantly watching. You may not buy anything, but it certainly is worth a long look around. Enjoy! I visited several arty places, but in checking data for this book, I learned that many are gone.

Lionheart Gallery 313 S. Fourth St. 502-568-3030

I could not get any response when I tried to contact the Lionheart for updates. This gallery was the result of a mother and daughter’s dream to own a gallery. You could find beautiful items of all varieties and price

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ranges. Hopefully they have retired by choice and not because of our loopy economy. During my first trip to the Brown, I decided to explore the area and learned that, just a short distance away, I would find a very attractive residential area. I was told that the Conrad-Caldwell House was open for touring and that if I drove, I would surely find a parking place. All of this proved true.

Conrad-Caldwell House 1402 St. James Ct. 502-636-5023 www.conradcaldwell.org

“Conrad’s Castle,” as it is known, is an exceptional show of, as the blurb states, “Richardsonian Romanesque architecture.” Walk around the castle and see the massive arches, swags, gargoyles, stained glass, fixtures, and such. The original construction price was $35,000. The admission fee is small but call to be certain of hours.

LEAVING LOUISVILLE BACK ON I-64 TO ST. LOUIS Although no signs said so (at least that I saw), you will go through Indiana. I always think it is nice to know what state you are in, physically and mentally. Services are available and both the road and area are beautiful. About two hundred miles from Louisville, you will see farmed fields and an occasional oil drill. Depending on time of year, there might be a time change. You can always use an extra hour as they go by so fast after thirty-nine! After leaving Louisville, I was checking the radio for weather conditions, when I heard it stated that if you want to build a house, this particular radio station would give you the lot! I don’t remember the station or the place, but I certainly remember that unusual offer.

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TENNESSEE

MEMPHIS favorite spot of mine, which I discovered a few years ago, Memphis is a sophisticated and savvy as well as happy, singing, and swinging city. How could it be anything else when it is the home of so many great musicians? The two main thoroughfares in Memphis that I use as compass points are Union and Popular avenues. It seems that if I can get to either and know which way is downtown or uptown, I have a good chance of finding my destination. My Memphis discoveries are many and mixed with delights. Without the Belz family, one can only wonder if downtown Memphis would be what it is today. Doubtful, I say. Father Philip and son Jack purchased the Peabody Hotel, initiating the downtown renaissance. There is no question that the multifaceted Belz Enterprises is a class act.

A

Peabody Hotel 149 Union Ave. 901-529-4000 www.peabodymemphis.com

This special, historic hotel is a magnificent structure. The staff is excellent, and whether you are staying at the Peabody or just visiting, it is a must. You cannot help but feel happy on this property.

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The Peabody Hotel is where the famous Peabody ducks reside. Each day, a few minutes before 11 a.m., the red carpet is rolled out from the elevator to the fountain. At exactly 11 a.m., escorted by the Duck Master with a John Philip Sousa march playing, the ducks exit the elevator onto the red carpet and proceed to the lobby’s massive marble fountain, where they swim and preen the day away. At 5 p.m., the procedure is reversed, and they return for the night to their penthouse, which you can visit. It is not too shabby. In fact, special flooring had to be installed to protect their sensitive feet.

History In 1930, when the Peabody’s general manager Frank Schutt and his good friend Chip Barwick stopped at the Peabody for a few posthunting nips, they carried in their live decoys (live decoys were legal back then). In typical prankish hunter fashion, they placed them where short legs and webbed feet would be comfortable—in the fountain! Our hunters nipped the evening away and left, forgetting their decoys. Discovered the next day, the ducks in their newfound swimming hole were an instant success. Hotel staffer Edward Pembroke hatched the idea that the ducks should live permanently in the Peabody fountain. He agreed to march them in and out daily. Indeed, it was a quacking good idea. Pembroke served as Duck Master for more than fifty years (1940–1991) and created a format for the duck presentation that has continued to this day. Pembroke was a unique individual whose contributions to the hotel have not been forgotten. To be the Duck Master at the Peabody is an honor. In the words of historian David Cohn, “The Mississippi Delta begins in the lobby of The Peabody . . . and ultimately you will see everybody who is anybody in the Delta.”

Lobby Bar Why this Lobby Bar is such a favorite place for so many I cannot really say, but it is. At any time of day, congeniality and conversations are rampant. Music always fills the air in the Peabody lobby. The Peabody also has one of the best memorabilia rooms of any hotel. You step back in time with a taped narration that begins with the music

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“Thanks for the Memories” and continues with the history of the Peabody. The glass showcases surrounding the room are filled with wonderful, fascinating objects from years ago. The more you look, the more you see, and the more you know about this special hotel.

Accommodations My rooms were always pleasant, despite needing a little fine tuning. Recently, the Peabody has completed major renovations that upgraded not only the rooms but the halls, elevators, and grand lobby. I am certain you will not be disappointed.

Dining The restaurants have changed in format and name since I was there a few years ago. Peabody Deli & Desserts serves light fare and, most importantly, Peabody’s signature vanilla muffins. I adore a good vanilla muffin, and though these are the signature version, I think they could be lighter and smaller. The muffins should remain—always. Capriccio Grill (901-529-4199), an Italian steak house with pasta dishes, is now in place. The Corner Bar is a meeting place, and foods can be ordered from Capriccio. At Chez Phillipe (901-529-4188) you will have an ultimate dining experience. Its size, sophisticated decor, and menu are exceptional. Though it has fewer than one hundred seats, a reservation is essential. Perhaps everything works so perfectly because the dining room is not too big and the chef is so skilled. I still remember a delicious lamb dinner that was one of the finest I have ever enjoyed. Driving Diva Tidbit: I was invited during one visit to a private lunch in the kitchen. The entrée was a small tenderloin of buffalo enclosed by a “fence” of long french fries. Impressed, I smiled at this unique and perfect presentation. There was also a vegetable and a small salad. I share this as you might want to try it at home.

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Gould’s Day Spa & Salon (901-578-8868), located on the Peabody’s lower level, is very convenient to all guests and to everyone in the Memphis area as well. I was able to get a spur-of-the-moment manicure and a tour of the salon. The staff was very professional, and the facilities were most attractive. Be sure to call ahead for an appointment. I learned that the original Gould’s started over fifty years ago. You cannot be at the Peabody and not visit Lansky’s Haberdashery (901-844-1913), located in the hotel’s lobby. Bernard Lansky, now in his late seventies, has seen a lot and clothed many right in his store. He even dressed Elvis Presley, who always referred to this clothier as Mr. B. Originally, he started out on Beale Street at a used-clothing store bought by his father, which Bernard shared with his five brothers. He did not like the business and so tried army-surplus clothing, which he did not like either. He decided that upscale fashions might be the answer, and from there Bernard Lansky was launched. Mr. B would deliver clothes to Graceland for the King. He’d breakfast with Gladys and Vernon Presley, Elvis’s mother and father. Their friendship was ongoing. It was Mr. B who said about Elvis, “I put him in his first suit, and I put him in his last.” Today at Lansky’s, you will see the best fashions as well as memorabilia from Elvis, Johnny Cash, and Jimmy Dean. Mr. B is still holding the fort and is at the shop by 6 a.m. His son, Hal, is also in residence and will keep Lansky’s open for the next “king” to arrive.

Other Sights and Sounds With the Peabody as your focal point, you will be able to walk around and see a lot of the area. You will find an eclectic mix of shops. With a little bit of everything, Peabody Place is a retail and entertainment hub adjacent to the Peabody; you can enter directly and spend a long time, strolling, eating, going to a movie, or shopping. Beale Street A very short walk from the Peabody is Beale Street—the street where the blues was born. It opens its arms to the world. What a street it is! Music fills its air 24/7. The clubs line each side of the street, and anything not

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a club is probably a tourist, music, or history shop of sorts. There are lots of eateries. Be sure to enjoy an Elvis sandwich (peanut butter and jelly– fried). If you are looking for voodoo potions, you’ll probably find some here on lively, musical, historic Beale Street.

A. Schwab Dry Goods Store 163 Beale St. 901-523-9782

Opened in 1876, Schwab’s is a Beale Street institution. Its motto says it all: “If you can’t find it at Schwab’s, you’re better off without it.” You will get a small, free bag of Schwab goodies just for visiting. As you walk around on the creaky wooden floors, you will probably purchase something you did not think you wanted or needed—possibly would even find. Upstairs, a museum has relics of old Schwab’s and Memphis. Every time I’ve visited Beale Street, I’ve been entertained by a group of young Memphis boys called the Beale Street Flippers. They perform unbelievable gymnastic feats on the street with no padding and no nets. They are truly amazing.

Madison Hotel 79 Madison Ave. 901-333-1200 www.madisonhotelmemphis.com

My interest in this property stems from the fact that the managing partner and general manager is Mohamad Hakimian, whom I met when he was general manager at the Peabody. He is a true hotelier. I heard fabulous reports about the Madison, and when I visited, they all proved true. Originally a bank building that has been transformed into a luxury boutique hotel, the Madison is well situated in relation to many downtown attractions. The decor is a mix of sophisticated and upscale art deco with apropos musical decorations playing off each other. I toured the property, and it is without a doubt attractive and impressive. The rooms are comfortable in size and decor with original tidbits. A rooftop terrace has beautiful views that include the nearby, rolling Mississippi River. The fitness center is in the old bank vault, and there is an indoor swimming pool. Everything is chic and savvy.

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The sophisticated and cozy Grill 83 (901-333-1224 ) is adjacent to the hotel, and fine dining is the norm for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Both the hotel and restaurant are delightful and delicious gems. The Madison has received awards from Condé Nast. From everything I saw, and based on who is at the helm, I do not hesitate to recommend the Madison.

Museums and Galleries Belz Museum of Asian and Judaic Art 119 S. Main St. 901-523-2787 (ARTS) www.belzmuseum.org

A couple of blocks from the Peabody, this museum has an exceptional Chinese art collection, and it happens to be the country’s largest collection of nineteenth-century Chinese art. Also on exhibit are Judaica, Russian lacquer boxes, contemporary glass, Italian mosaics, fossils, and more. The collection included some of Israel’s most celebrated contemporary artists, Ofra Friedland and Daniel Kafri.

Dixon Gallery and Gardens 4339 Park Ave. 901-761-5250 www.dixon.org

Located in beautiful East Memphis on Park Avenue between Getwell and Perkins across from the Audubon Park, the Dixon is not hard to find if you are driving. This small, charming art gallery adjoining the former Dixon residence is a gem. I rate it as one of my very favorites. Aside from viewing an outstanding collection, you get an inside view of the beautiful Dixon home. Hugo and Margaret Dixon were community leaders and philanthropists who bequeathed their home, gardens, and collection of French impressionist paintings to the people of Memphis for the enjoyment of all who visit the gallery. The Dixons established the foundation that runs the museum and also acquires works of art fitting for exhibition there. In 1976 the painting collection totaled twenty-six. Over the years, the collection has grown to over two thousand paintings. American, French, and postimpressionist painters are represented, as

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are eighteenth- and nineteenth-century British artists. Extraordinary is the Wanda Stevens Stout collection of six hundred pieces of eighteenthcentury German porcelain. This outstanding collection was bequeathed to the museum in 1985. Now the porcelain collection includes eighteenthand nineteenth-century French decorative arts and more. The Dixon Museum is a treasure, enhanced by beautiful gardens brilliant in content and when in bloom. In its thirty years, this wonderful museum has acquired many private collections, an impressive accomplishment to say the least. You must see the Dixon and forever enjoy it in your reflective mind’s eye. There is a small admission fee; call for hours and special events that might be taking place.

Sun Studio 706 Union Ave. 901-525-8055 www.sunstudio.com

This is the place! This small, nondescript, brick building was opened by Sam Phillips as Sun Studio in the 1950s. Little did he know what he was doing in his recording studio as he had no rules and would crank up amps and let music and spirit flow. He was changing music forever. Sun, now a historic landmark, became the recording studio of Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash, Roy Orbison, Charlie Rich, and so many more. When a tall, lanky eighteen-year-old arrived at Sun Studio, he was asked, “Who do you sound like?” He responded, “I don’t sound like nobody.” That understatement was uttered by Elvis, and how true it was. Could this little place on Union Avenue be called a shrine? Probably so. Each year Sun Studio receives 125,000 tourists who wish to touch the microphone and stand where the stars once stood. I did, and it was rather special. Bands who wish to produce their own CDs can rent the studio (equipped with an actual engineer) by the hour. Tourists can also make their own recordings karaoke style. Can you image making your own recording right where Elvis did? There is a small admission fee, but children aged five to eleven get in for free. Parking is in the rear. There is a free shuttle to and from Graceland.

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Graceland 3734 Elvis Presley Blvd. 800-238-2010 www.elvis.com

Whether you are an Elvis fan or not, his home, Graceland, is a mustsee. From the ticket office, guests are shuttled across Elvis Presley Boulevard, where they then begin the tour of the fourteen-acre Elvis estate. If you saw the house and didn’t know whom it belonged to, you would say it was just a nice big Colonial house. Because it was the King’s house, it takes on different dimensions. You will see at least eight rooms in the house that have not changed since Elvis lived there. A large collection of his costumes (from his early to his late sizes) and other personal artifacts are displayed. Behind the house you will see his racquet ball building and the Elvis Presley Car Museum, which houses several of his cars—the 1955 pink Cadillac, the 1956 purple Cadillac, and the red MG he drove in the movie Blue Hawaii, to name a few—as well as his Harley Davidson motorcycles. Also on display are some of his leather motorcycle jackets and his driver’s license. The Lisa Marie, his jet, can be toured too. He referred to this as his flying Graceland. You can see all the customized rooms on board as well as his private bedroom. The tour ends with a visit to the Meditation Garden, where Elvis and members of his family are buried. Admirers still send flowers daily. Graceland is the most visited private home next to the White House. Approximately six hundred thousand people tour it each year. In 2002, on the anniversary of Elvis’s death, about forty thousand paraded past his grave. Visiting Graceland is an experience. The tour takes approximately three hours, but that is going through once. You can go through several times, because the more you see, the more you are in awe of this boy from Tupelo, Mississippi, who was an absolute phenomenon and changed the music industry forever. He remains one of the rare Homo sapiens in the world who is universally recognized by one name: Elvis.

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Cooper Young Neighborhood This fun, eclectic mix of an area is not just upscale but up many scales. Driving up the streets, I was hesitant at first, but when I saw what was there, I think I started to hyperventilate! Even from a casual, initial glance, I could tell that the only thing to do was to park, walk, and discover. I am told about a lot of places I should visit and a lot of people I should meet. I am grateful for the input, but little did I know that in the CooperYoung area I would meet one of the most interesting, creative females I have had the pleasure to encounter in thousands of miles of travel: Karen Blockman Carrier. She has created unbelievably original, delightful, delicious haunts that all ooze with her expert culinary talents and vivacious personality.

Beauty Shop Restaurant and Lounge 966 S. Cooper 901-272-7111 www.thebeautyshoprestaurant.com

Owned, designed, and operated by chef Karen B. Carrier, this restaurant is one of her many entrepreneurial successes. Upon entering, you have no question that this was once a real beauty shop. One could not improve on the authentic decor. How smart to leave the irreplaceable beauty shop as it was! Behind the bar area are the original pale-green beauty shop sinks. Further into the restaurant are the original beauty booths—Priscilla Presley had her bouffant hair done at one of them. In the course of my visit, I learned that Priscilla had recently come with a friend to show where she used to have her hair styled! I was seated at a table under a raised vintage hair dryer. How chic can I get! To my delight, chef and owner Karen arrived at my table. Immediately I knew I was in the presence of a very friendly and creative dynamo. We immediately began to talk, and soon a brilliant Bloody Mary appeared in front of me. Before I knew it, I was tasting all sorts of samples from Karen’s creative menu. The BLTA—a bacon, lettuce, tomato, and avocado sandwich—was fantastic! I also sampled the Thai Cobb salad. The prices, food, and ambiance are all excellent.

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Mollie Fontaine Lounge 679 Adams Ave. 901-524-1886

I have not been to Mollie Fontaine’s, but based on Karen’s reputation and what I have seen firsthand at two of her other creations, I would gamble that you will not be disappointed. The restaurant is in a big Victorian mansion, but the Victorian ends at the front door. Inside, everything is comfy, with cobalt blue lights and lots of candles. There are three dining rooms, and jazz music fills the air. Does this not sound like a special place? I look forward to finding out for sure the next time I am in Memphis.

Do Sushi and Noodles 964 S. Cooper 901-272-0830 www.dosushimemphis.com

This small sushi bar is located next to the Beauty Shop is under the aegis of “The Karen.”

Shopping

Woman’s Exchange 88 Racine St. 901-327-5681

This charming shop has absolutely beautiful handmade items. There are special gift items and consignment items as well. The tearoom is delightful and each choice so very delicious. This gem of a place is a bit hard to find but you will be glad you arrived.

Second Time Around Flea Market 3437 Summer Ave. 901-725-1257

An eclectic hodgepodge of major proportions, this shop had been at the same spot for over twenty years when I originally found it in the

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Cooper-Young area, but later it moved due to major rent increases. With determination, I tracked the new shop down and spoke with the unique owner, Warren Gillispie. I asked him how he moved all the those things, and he said he took what he wanted and gave the rest away. He still has a humongous amount of stuff of every size, shape, and variety, he proudly told me. If you are looking to purchase something at his shop, be patient. You just have to keep looking.

Repeat Boutique: The Junior League of Memphis 3586 Summer Ave. 901-327-4777

In this well-organized, clean, and friendly shop, the merchandize is well displayed and attractive. I admit that I left a few coins there because I learned all proceeds go back to the community. Driving Diva Mileage: Reluctantly, I left Memphis for Nashville on a Sunday morning. It was easy to get back on the interstate, and the road was fairly empty. On this particular odyssey, I had so far driven nine thousand miles!

NASHVILLE Every time I have been to Nashville, my visits have been most pleasant. A friendly place, it is definitely Tennessee southern, and I mean that in a complimentary way. With each visit I have seen improvements. Nashville is music, with country music being at the top of the list.

Ryman Auditorium 116 Fifth Ave. N 615-889-3060 www.ryman.com

Opened in 1892 by Capt. Thomas Ryman, the Ryman Auditorium, the “Mother Church of Country Music,” is where so much country music and so many of its stars began. The Grand Ole Opry started here in 1925.

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From the first time I looked upon this unimpressive, almost humble building, it was obvious it looks like a church, and that spiritual ambiance is evident. Indeed, I was looking at a shrine. In 1994 the Ryman was restored. This national showplace, with its exceptional acoustics and history, should not be missed. During the day it is open as a museum. Check the schedule, and see a performance or two. In 1974, the Grand Ole Opry moved from the Ryman Auditorium to Opryland.

Opryland 2804 Opryland Dr. 615-871-6779 (OPRY) www.opry.com

This icon is a must-see—even if you go alone, I bet you won’t feel alone. As you get seated and before you get too comfortable, you will probably be talking with the people around you. What an unbelievable experience to be at the Opry! The auditorium is huge, with seating capacity for forty-four hundred. It’s not fancy—just a big stage where scenery is not needed as there is so much talent to watch. The Grand Ole Opry is eighty years old. Although there have been many obstacles, including questioning of its present-day appropriateness, there ain’t nothing like it, be it for the performer or the audience. How can such a homespun, folksy, hayseed production survive? Talent and realness—I say. Patsy Cline, Johnny Cash, Minnie Pearl, Hank Williams, and Elvis have performed here, and the list goes on. Everyone—from performer to patron—has contributed to its survival and made it the number one, longest-running continuous radio show in the country, as well as the most popular presentation of its kind. It is fabulous. Today’s performers include Little Jimmy Dickens—what a dynamo in a small package, who was singing the night I was there. I couldn’t stop applauding for everyone who got on stage. Go and enjoy!

Observation: I was thrilled to go back stage. Again, it was nothing fancy, but what talent I was surrounded by! I noticed that some of the performers were very senior and had passed the running-and-skipping age, but by

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174 | Romancing the Roads Jove, when they went on stage, they became rejuvenated and walked out with pride and alacrity. It was a joy to see.

When the show begins, the performers are introduced with enthusiasm. There is a fabulous backup group. The names of the specific sponsors of the acts are flashed on the marquee across the stage. Tickets are sort of pricey but worth every cent. Allow plenty of time to get to the Grand Ole Opry. Unless you really know the roads, I suggest taking a cab—especially if you are staying downtown. It may seem expensive, but you will be glad you taxied it. Check with your hotel, which might have transportation.

Gaylord’s Opryland 2800 Opryland Dr. 615-889-1000 www.gaylordhotels.com

The highway directions to Gaylord’s Opryland could be improved. As with so many directional signs, be they on highways or in towns, they are designed and placed by the natives of the area. They do not see things the way a stranger does. Directions cannot be too explicit—for the visitors. During one trip, when I had OnStar, I called to be sure I was on the right road. “We” arrived at Opryland after a corrected turn or two. You are actually not that far from downtown Nashville, but the route is a bit circuitous—particularly for a visitor. Gaylord’s Opryland is a huge enterprise—it’s the largest nongaming casino in the world. (Yes, a casino can be nongaming.) Immediately you will realize that this is one big, organized organization—if there is a superlative for organization, apply it here. At the covered front entrance, you will see cars, buses, SUVs—anything on wheels—and lots of people. Opryland attendants will greet you and take your car or show you where to park. There is a charge for valet parking—as well as “you” parking. Upon entering the hotel, called Cascades, you will probably wonder where to begin—and understandably so. Check in. You will be glad for the bellman as finding your room the first time can be a challenge.

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Tennessee | 175 Note: Opryland is huge—as they say, “Everything in one place. So you can have it all.” Because there is so much in one place, I am only going to guide you through the main points and comment on my experiences.

The Gaylord Opryland Complex is divided into four main areas: Cascade, Garden Conservatory, Delta, and Magnolia. In the Cascade’s atrium, you walk under tall palm trees, along pathways lined with lush foliage all under a glass ceiling. On Delta Island, magnificent foliage abounds, and waterfalls echo. There are also Delta River Flatboat tours, as well as eating spots on Delta Island. It is a big spectacle, and you are inside though you could feel like you were outside. Throughout Opryland, gaiety prevails with music constantly in the background. Everything is extremely clean, and lots of smiles are exchanged. Many room accommodations with balconies overlook Delta Island. My room was one such, and although it was not fancy, it was comfortable. I enjoyed sitting on the balcony, watching the throngs meander around the Delta. It is also nice to open the room’s balcony door and listen to the sounds of the fountains and waterfalls as you lay in bed. There are at least twenty places of all varieties for dining. I would rate the food I tried “alright.” My room service for a club sandwich was pricey—and with all the add-ons, very pricy. Rachel’s home-style restaurant in the Magnolia area proved very efficient. Prices were moderate at $12.95. There is a little bit of everything at Opryland—even a Kinko’s Business Center. Be aware that nothing is inexpensive inside the complex, but everyone is friendly.

Opry Mills Within a short walking distance is Opry Mills, which replaced Opryland Theme Park—much to the dismay of many. I walked over to this million plus square feet of places of every variety; needless to say, I did not see every square foot, but enough was enough. It is just a huge mall. Is another mall needed? The theme park seems to be a lost Opry tradition—sad.

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Downtown Nashville Union Station Hotel 1001 Broadway 615-726-1001 www.unionstationhotelnashville.com

A Wyndham Historic Hotel, this impressively renovated building was formerly a magnificent train station. Union Station Hotel should not be missed. The restoration of this magnificent train station is impressive. The focal point as one enters is the sixty-five-foot vaulted ceiling of Tiffany stained glass. There are also bas relief sculptures and impressive mirrors. This edifice is a relic of the era when train travel was elegant, and passengers were stylish. To truly see the total grandeur of this property, look at a picture taken from a distance showing the stateliness of the total building. I enjoyed my stay, and found the rooms most attractive. I was informed that few rooms are alike. There are several dining options at the hotel. This is a special historic property. See it, even if you cannot spend the night. A Tiny FYI: When I was at Union Station Hotel, a gentleman was waiting to polish gentlemen’s shoes. I am certain he does ladies’ shoes as well. So civilized!

Hermitage Hotel 231 Sixth Ave. N 615-244-3121 www.thehermitagehotel.com

The Hermitage Hotel is a sparkling gem. Commissioned by 250 Nashvillians in 1908, it opened in 1910. The finest materials available went into its construction, including Russian walnut, sienna marble, and brilliant stained glass. In 1940 the hotel’s advertising read, “Fireproof, noise proof and dustproof, $2.00 and up.” It was indeed a place to meet, whether you were a socialite, a business-ite, a neophyte, a traveler, or the president of the United States. It was also headquarters for Senator John F. Kennedy during his presidential campaign. The famous guest list takes up many

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long columns, and the who’s whos and the wannabes have all been to the Hermitage—as have those who just admire exceptional hotels. Remodeled in 2003, this small, but large in grandeur, property is a must-see. From the time you enter the lobby, the old-world charm that permeates the spaces envelopes you. You will realize how marvelous the elite fin-de-siècle lifestyle must have been. The vaulted ceiling, the arches, the seating arrangements, and the discreet display of opulence all combine to welcome the visitor in a most gracious manner. The rooms were attractive and, at the time of my stay, adequately appointed with all the usual amenities. All this has been enhanced with more attention to detail and more upgrades. Whether any of my hotel annoyances now prevail, I cannot say, but knowing the criteria of the Hermitage, I am sure they will be few. The Hermitage is a masterpiece. The Capitol Grille (615-345-7116) and adjacent Oak Bar are award winners. Before the latest upgrades and accolades, I enjoyed the dining, but now, with all the attention and awards, I am certain each morsel will outdo the previous. The Hermitage Hotel is ideally situated. You can walk out the door and get on the trolley or take a self-guided walking tour from the hotel. You can get a map at the front desk and follow the markings on the sidewalk outside the Hermitage. I wish more cities were this tourist friendly.

Note: The owners also own the Jefferson in Richmond, Virginia, and the Sanctuary on Kiawah Island, South Carolina. I can unequivocally say that each is magnificent in its own right. They do know how to do properties correctly and magnificently.

The Nashville Sightseeing Trolley You can walk to the corner by the Hermitage or in front of Union Station and catch a Nashville sightseeing trolley. It has many other designated stops throughout the city. An all-day pass cost about $3 when I was there. Get the trolley schedule. There are several different tours. You can simply get off the trolley if you want to stroll for a while and pick up another bus later. It’s a great way to sightsee—and to keep feet functioning.

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JACKSON A lot of places were advertised as well as seen from the interstate: Casey Jones Village, Cracker Barrel, Best Buy, and such. Jackson is obviously a growing place. The ratings I have read are excellent. What I know about Casey Jones Village is only hearsay or from comments on the billboards. Check it out before you go.

LYNCHBURG (POPULATION APPROXIMATELY 500) I report in anticipation of accepting the several invitations to visit this wonderful, tiny town of one stop light, home to the exceptional Miss Mary Bo Bo’s Boarding House Restaurant.

Miss Mary Bo Bo’s Boarding House Restaurant 295 Main St. 931-759-7394

Lynchburg is also home to the oldest registered distillery in the United States, the Jack Daniels Distillery. Jack Daniels is a Tennessee whiskey. Here’s the story.

Jack Daniels Mr. Jack, five feet, two inches tall, was born in 1850, one of thirteen children. Growing up, he worked with a minister who just happened to have a still. Jack became knowledgeable about the “still business.” In 1904, he entered his Tennessee sipping whiskey, Old No. 7, in the St. Louis Worlds Fair, and his was the only one to be honored with the fair’s gold medal for “world’s best whiskey.” Shortly thereafter, though, he broke his toe while angrily trying to kick open his safe. His toe became infected, and he soon died of blood poisoning. Mr. Jack had never married, and the distillery went to his nephew, Lem Motlow. Here’s a favorite recipe from the distillery.

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Jack Daniels Lynchburg Lemonade 1 part Jack Daniel’s Tennessee whiskey 1 part Triple Sec 1 part sour mix 4 parts lemon-lime soda Visit the distillery and see the fascinating process. Note that the distillery is in a dry county. No tastings are given, but purchases are welcomed. FYI: In October (usually the third week) Lynchburg hosts the Jack Daniel’s World Championship Invitational Barbecue Competition. In tiny Lynchburg, about 25,000 enthusiasts will join you for this smokin’ event. For details, visit www.jackdanielsbarbecuemedia.com

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NORTH CAROLINA

I

take I-95, the Northeast Corridor, both north and south as I drive through North Carolina.

SMITHFIELD One of my favorite stopping places is the Carolina Premium Outlets, which has about eighty brand-name stores, including my favorites: Carolina Pottery and Harry & David.

Carolina Pottery 1025 Industrial Dr. 919-934-0309 www.carolinapotteryusa.com

This family-owned business was established in 1983. The collection of items in this sixty-five-thousand-square-foot space is huge and of every conceivable description. Here you will probably find everything from the practical, to the necessities, to the “possibly I need that,” to the “Oh my gosh, I found it!” Walking around this huge space is what one needs when driving long distances, and the ladies’ room is always clean. (I assume the same holds true for the men’s room.) 180

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Harry & David 1025 Industrial Dr. 919-989-8757

Harry & David is universally known. Whenever I see one of these shops, a visit is a must. If you don’t leave with one of their products, there is something slightly wrong with you. Enjoy shopping. Enjoy what you purchase.

JR Discount Outlets 67 Jr Rd., Selma 919-965-5055 www.jrcigars.com

JR Discount Outlets are found in several places in North Carolina. The one on I-95 is across the interstate from Carolina Pottery. At JR Discounts, the price range is wide. If you look closely, you will definitely find bargains for cigars, perfume, and a lot of other stuff. The numerous billboards along the highways will tell you where and how to get to JR’s nearest door.

ASHEVILLE This sophisticated, hip, and artistic town has beautiful surroundings. Asheville boasts many attractive shops, great places to eat, and wonderful places to stay. The approach into Asheville on I-40 over Black Mountain is breathtaking in the fall. In spite of the colorful distractions, remember to keep your eyes on the road. Getting into downtown Asheville can be confusing, so obtain exact directions. Once you’re there, Asheville is easy to explore, and parking is not too difficult. Park, walk, explore, and enjoy.

Grove Park Inn Resort and Spa 290 Macon Ave. 828-252-2711 or 800-438-5800 www.groveparkinn.com

This unbelievable structure is a must-see attraction, even if you do not stay on the property. The historic Grove Park Inn Resort and Spa, built

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in 1913, was the creation of Edwin W. Grove, a pharmacist who invented Grove’s Tasteless Tonic as well as other medications. He became a real estate entrepreneur and millionaire. He and his son-in-law, Fred Seely, planned the construction of the Grove Park Inn—the inspiration being the grand lodges in Yellowstone National Park. It is mind-boggling how this mammoth structure was built, with some of the granite boulders weighing many tons. At their base, the walls are four feet thick, and they are six stories tall! From the first time you see this grand building, you cannot help but marvel at its construction. Within this huge building is the largest collection of mission-style oak furniture. The setting is magnificent, with the Blue Ridge Mountains as the backdrop. It is particularly beautiful in the fall, with the mountain foliage ablaze in bright colors. The fireplace in the baronial main hall is bigger than huge. Everything about this magnificent, unique structure is awesome. The Grove Park Inn, a 510-room property, has won many prestigious awards. There is a variety of rooms to choose from, even themed rooms on the Club Floor. I thoroughly enjoy visiting this grand and fabulous hotel. The bathrooms in the Club Floor rooms are spacious and include large Jacuzzi tubs and wonderful oversized showers with many knobs for all the water options—which can take a bit of time to master. More hooks would help in the bathroom, and I know this sounds old-fashioned, but a door to the toilet area would be nice! The quilt on the bed is attractive but heavy to remove for a midday nap before room service turns it down in the evening. The lighting is slightly dim. A very nice convenience in my room was a cupboard that hid a small refrigerator and microwave. You cannot help but relax in the rooms at the Grove Park. If you have a room with a view, the natural beauty is overwhelming, and it is hard not to be mesmerized by your surroundings. Opportunities for sports abound. Take your pick between golf, tennis, swimming, biking, and more—or just sit and look out over the magnificent mountains. The staff at the hotel is friendly, knowledgeable, and a delight to speak with. Statesmen, dignitaries, inventors, legends, and celebrities have all stayed at the Grove Park Inn. Add your name to the roster, and enjoy a very special experience.

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Dining The hotel has several dining facilities with different price ranges. The pièce de résistance is the Horizons Dining Room, with its impeccable service and diverse, first-rate menu. Enjoyment is guaranteed. The prices are respectably pricey, but one (usually) gets what one pays for. The selections are prix fixe, and the attendants are gourmet knowledgeable, several having been at Horizons for many years. Do not hesitate to ask their advice. There is music and dancing in the evening in the Great Hall. You do not have to be staying at the Grove Park to enjoy an evening at this unique property. The annual Gingerbread House Competition in November is a real happening. Each of the approximately three hundred entries from all over the United States is a masterpiece. Judging is not easy, and the criteria are overall appearance, creativity, difficulty, precision, and consistency of theme. There are four categories: adult, teen, youth, and child. If the judges (I am one) discover that any part of an entry is not edible, the house is disqualified. Usually, four professional chefs are judges. Worldrenowned chef Nicholas Lodge can find a secreted “nonedible” in the middle of a masterpiece. What a wonderful competition for all ages. After the competition, the houses are spaced throughout the hotel for all to enjoy. If seeing these special houses in person is not feasible for you, be sure to watch the coverage on TV. The competition has been featured on the Food Channel and Good Morning America and in print. Call the hotel or check the Internet for special events. The hotel hosts a wonderful array, but call early as they are popular. Visiting the Grove Park Inn during one of the events only adds to the overall experience.

Grove Park Spa The spa opened in 2001 to rave reviews, and everyone is still raving and applauding. This forty-thousand-square-foot subterranean facility is considered one of the finest spas in North America. When you get off the elevator on the spa floor, you feel like you are walking into a different realm. Large granite rocks appear all over this cavernous spa, which is, despite its size, quite cozy.

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The spa’s selections are many and varied. The aromatherapy massage is relaxing and soothing, and the Grove Park custom facial is fantastic. Pedicures and manicures do wonders for your limbs. Everything at the spa is enjoyable and relaxing to the nth degree. Before and after a treatment, one can sit in the Relaxation Lounge in a comfy, voluminous chair. If your eyelids aren’t overly relaxed, you can look at one of the many magazines and enjoy a healthy drink and nibbles. The spa also has a boutique that sells some of the same products used in the treatments. There is also a small spa restaurant with a delicious and sensible menu. One cannot “talk” about the Grove Park Inn without mentioning Craig Madison, who started his association with Grove Park via his advertising agency in 1979. As his success became more widespread over fifteen years and his Grove Park Inn affiliations became more entrenched, in 1999 he was made general manager; then, in 2003 he became president and CEO. Without question, Grove Park and Craig Madison are synonymous, and what a team they are!

Biltmore Estate One Approach Rd. 282-225-1333 www.biltmore.com

The famed Biltmore estate is a very short, easy drive from downtown Asheville. It is worth every turn of your tires to see how one of the most affluent families lived in such a grand manner—not all that unlike European royalty. This 250-room French Renaissance building is the largest private home in the United States. Built by George Washington Vanderbilt and opened in 1895, it is totally self-sufficient and absolutely magnificent. A tour of the estate is memorable and should definitely be done in a relaxed fashion. There is so much to see and digest. Start early, wear comfortable shoes, and do not rush. Famed architect Richard Morris Hunt was inspired in his design by three sixteenth-century French châteaux. This château would have 250 rooms, 34 bedrooms, 43 bathrooms, and 65 fireplaces. The basement is practically a city, with its kitchen, swimming pool, gymnasium, changing rooms, servants’ quarters, bowling alley, pantry, and more. The grounds

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were landscaped by the famed designer of New York’s Central Park, Frederick Law Olmsted. Only superlatives apply to the Biltmore estate. Enjoy lunch in the Bistro. Sampling a selection or two from the on-site winery is also a treat. The Stable Shops are full of wonderful items. Touring the estate is a memorable experience, particularly during the holidays. Before you visit, it is a good idea to read the history of the Biltmore estate as there is so much to absorb. Buy a copy of the beautiful Biltmore guidebook. You will not possibly remember all you saw, and quietly reflecting with the book is most enjoyable.

The Inn on Biltmore Estate 1 Approach Rd. 828-225-1600 www.biltmore.com

The inn is a recent addition to the estate. One can check in and enjoy a small taste of the Vanderbilts’ elegant hospitality, graciousness, and ambiance. Enjoy afternoon tea in the library. As of this writing, I have not stayed on property, but from all I have heard, it will not disappoint.

Haywood Park Hotel 1 Battery Park Ave. 800-228-2522 www.haywoodpark.com

This small, delightful property is unique because it was originally a downtown department store called Ivey’s. The approximately thirty suites are all enhanced with crown moldings, recessed ceilings, and artwork. I found the rooms spacious. In my room there was a sofa area with a desk. The decor is dark, but because of the size of the room, it is not drab. I have stayed on the property twice. The only flaw I saw (the last time) were the plastic flowers on a pedestal in the corner. Maybe they have been changed. They looked like they were from a quickie wedding chapel in Vegas. The following should be copied. The large TV is concealed behind a door, and an adjacent door conceals storage shelves. There is also a large closet, a refrigerator, and a small wet bar, which is all very nice. The bathroom is more than spacious, and mine had a TV. There is also a dressing room. The toiletries are excellent, and when I was there, they

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included the standards as well as a razor, toothbrush, and toothpaste. For a nominal charge, you can have a light breakfast served in your room. There is parking in the hotel garage. There are tempting shops in the hotel, and the entire property is convenient to other downtown destinations. On property, the Flying Frog Café (828-254-9411) and the Flying Frog Deli and Wine Bar (828-225-4857) both offer a pleasant dining experience.

Grand Bohemian Hotel Asheville 11 Boston Way 828-505-2949 www.bohemianhotelasheville.com

If this property weren’t part of the Kessler Collection, I would not begin to include it in this book. I have been to several Kessler properties, and each is outstanding. I have not been to the property, but let me share what I know and have been told by friends who have been to Grand Bohemian Hotel Asheville. There are 104 beautifully appointed, luxurious guest rooms and suites. That is all I can say about the rooms, and I do not know the particulars about the bathrooms or extras. Again, I say if it is a Kessler, it is a winner. There is, of course, an impressive art gallery with works from local as well as more international artists. Firsthand reports about the Red Stag Grill (828-398-5600) are more than complimentary. The spa and fitness center are state-of-the-art. What else can I say, except that I am certain you will not be disappointed.

Sightseeing in Asheville Put on your good walking shoes and explore downtown. Some areas are quite hilly. Biltmore Avenue, the main street, has a little bit of everything, from restaurants to shopping to theater.

Dining Gourmet Perks Coffee Shop and Café 165 Merrimon Ave. 828-254-4777

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This fun, eclectic, and casual restaurant has delicious fare. It is very reasonably priced. The proprietor, Karen Griffin, runs a good show. If there is any glitch at Gourmet Perks, it involves trying to get in and out of the crowded parking lot.

Limones Mexican & California Cuisine 13 Eagle St. 828-252-2327 www.limonesrestaurant.com

Limones has an upbeat atmosphere and serves fresh food from a large menu. To begin, the salsa sampler with topes was very good. I enjoyed the roasted all-natural pork chop as my main meal. I was tempted to try the grilled coconut shrimp but decided to save that dish for next time. Everything looked so good and was served with alacrity. The prices were reasonable, and the ambiance was just right. Limones is downtown on a tiny side street. It is gaining a big following.

Bistro 1896 7 Pack Square SW 828-251-1300 www.bistro1896.com

With a large and varied menu, extensive wine selections, and wonderful atmosphere, this “bistro” continues to gain applause. The menu has something for everyone’s palate. It is causal, but the food is fine. Whether for lunch, dinner, or Sunday brunch, go and enjoy.

French Broad Chocolates 10 S. Lexington Ave. 828-252-4181 www.frenchbroadchocolates.com

I’ll explain the name below, but in the meantime, I’ll try to describe this deliciously decadent little place. I am not an ardent chocolate aficionado, but after a nibble or two of one of this shop’s delights, you too will probably be corrupted and join the throngs of devotees, just as I did. There are large dollops with flavors like lavender and honey, masala chai, fresh raspberry, Indian kulfi, and vanilla bourbon; there is salted honey caramel and milk chocolate; the selections go on and on. See the pictures on the website.

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There are other items: tea, coffee, wine and beer, and ice cream. I cannot believe that I enjoyed brown sugar maple bacon ice cream and that I can’t wait to have another! Thank you so much, owners Dan and Jael Rattigan, for all these “temptations” that I now enjoy. Now, about the name “French Broad” and the double entendre. This is the name of a river that runs from Rosman, North Carolina, into Tennessee and is considered the headwater of the Tennessee River. The “French” part comes from the fact that there were originally two broad rivers, one that flowed into the French Territory and the other into English Territory— now they are simply called the Broad River. You can see the two names on old maps and now on the sign at this special decadent oasis.

Shopping In this mountain town, with its eclectic mix of upscale, hippy, and oldworld collections, one can shop and select from various price points. The organic foods are top-drawer.

Mast General Store 15 Biltmore Ave. 828-232-1883 www.mastgeneralstore.com

This chockablock full store has been restored to its 1940s heyday. It carries a large selection of outdoor clothing and so much more. The decorations from “back when” are fun to peruse. The best part is the more than five hundred old-fashioned and hard-to-find candies. As you walk around downtown Asheville, look at some of the vintage buildings, such as the Kress Emporium. They don’t build them like that any more. On the side streets, more shops of every variety abound. I found most all of the shopkeepers extremely friendly, and they did not mind if you just browsed.

Grove Arcade 1 Page St. 828-252-7799 www.grovearcade.com

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The Grove Arcade was the idea of E. W. Grove, who began this project after he completed the Grove Park Inn. He wanted it to be the most elegant building in America. His concept of a downtown retail area was inventive and a success. Although the building was evacuated and used for World War II endeavors, in 2002, after many debates, the Grove Arcade was restored and reopened to become western North Carolina’s largest commercial building and Asheville’s new public market. There are several consignment and secondhand shops in Asheville. Obtain a tourist map from one of the many places in town to locate them all. Here are a few:

Clothes Encounters 340 Merriman Ave. 828-251-5651 www.clothesencounters.net

The merchandise is modern and average. Everything is sensibly priced. The accessories are attractively displayed. Evening gowns are plentiful, as are wedding gowns. You will find real bargains.

Excellent Seconds 959 Merriman Ave. 828-251-2332

The merchandise is nice and sensibly priced. There were some designer items. Though high-end and a bit pricey, the items were chic. Tami Michael, the owner, informed me that they had been in business since 1986.

A Miscellany That You Might Find of Interest Old Edwards Inn and Spa 445 Main St., Highland 866-526-8008 www.oldedwardsinn.com

Knowing the director and the director of sales—their credentials, personae, and modus operandi—I do not hesitate to include this inn and spa although the info is not firsthand. In the heart of the beautiful Smoky Mountains, this charming and highly acclaimed oasis is exceptional. Food,

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service, and atmosphere all fall under the ultra umbrella of accolades. Without a negative—and I have searched around for even half of one—I recommend Old Edwards Inn. It is a gem from every syllable I have heard. Interstate 85/40 Take Exit 132 and visit Replacements Ltd.

Replacements Ltd. 1089 Know Rd., Greensboro 800-737-5223 www.replacements.com

The motto of this unique place is “We replace the irreplaceable.” The large billboard will direct you to the exit. Be alert, as the sign for Replacements Ltd. is small. There is plenty of parking, and this twelve-thousandsquare-foot showroom houses a huge plethora of items. Founded in 1981 by Bob Page, the store sells china, porcelain, silver, glassware, stoneware, stainless steel, and so much more. With an inventory of ten million pieces, Replacements receives ten thousand telephone calls per day inquiring about “something.” Tours are given regularly, and shopping here is always an adventure. If visiting the showroom is not feasible, you can send Replacements a picture or crystal pattern rubbing for identification of what you are looking for. There is a very good chance they will stock it or can find it. They can also tell you about a piece of silver or cut glass or whatever you show them. I think they have a most efficient system of locating, or possibly having, that desired piece you thought you would never find. You can work with them over the phone or on the spot. Either way, you will be impressed. As you travel I-40 and I-85, you will see signs for wholesale furniture and clothing stores. You can always stop and look, just in case.

CHARLOTTE (POPULATION APPROXIMATELY 2 MILLION) This North Carolina city is a real hub. It mixes big-city commerce with small-town charms. There are all ages in this fast-growing city.

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Ballantyne Hotel-Lodge 10000 Ballantyne Commons Pkwy. 704-248-4000 www.ballantyneresort.com

This large and relatively new property was built in 2001 and remodeled in 2005. It is impressive. It has class and style with a new and attractive commercial ambiance. As you drive into the circular driveway, the big building with its 214 rooms is welcoming. A parking lot for self-parking is but yards away from the entrance, and there is also valet service. When you enter the lobby, the very high, vaulted ceilings, furniture groupings, arched and columned architecture, and long hallways all convey elegance. Check-in was friendly and efficient. As I followed the bellman to the elevators and to my room, I noticed that more signage would have been helpful. The rooms are conservatively decorated, and I don’t mean that derogatorily. They are just not flamboyant in decor. They are restful, and necessary and upscale amenities are all in place. The bathroom is large, with both a tub and individual shower. The area below the basin is put to good use as there is a shelf for your cosmetic overflows, and although you can see the plumbing beneath the sink, it is not too offensive.

Gallery Restaurant Dining was a pleasure, but finding the dining room would be facilitated by a sign or two. Pleasant and inviting, the dining room is not overly upscale, and many of the guests were more casual than I like to see. The suggested petite tastings were delicious. The yellow fin tuna tartar, caramelized scallops, Hudson Valley fois gras, Alaskan king crab with truffle ravioli, and filet mignon were all well presented and perfect to the palate. Dessert was a delicious first for me: petite pearl tapioca with mango jelly. The evening’s culinary fare was outstanding. I also had an excellent breakfast in the Gallery Restaurant. As a freshgrapefruit aficionado, I enjoyed one of the best hotel dining room grapefruits of my life. It was perfect to the taste and impeccably cut. (The latter isn’t always the case.) Afternoon tea is served Tuesdays through Saturdays

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from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. It is a wonderful custom that can’t be enjoyed too often.

Spa Conveniently located at the end of a long hall off of the lobby, I found this full-service spa, which has been ranked among the top spas in North America, to be first-rate and well run. It has eighteen treatment rooms and offers a large selection of experiences to choose from. I enjoyed a body wrap that used Carolina red clay—a signature treatment. There are lap pools, saunas, an indoor grotto pool, and a whirlpool. All the pamperyourself facilities you could ever want are here. The prices are normal. There is a five-star, eighteen-hole, par-seventy-one golf course, as well as the Dana Rader Golf School on the property. Of course, tennis courts and swimming pools are there to enjoy as well.

OUTER BANKS The Outer Banks—a string of barrier islands that begins just over the Virginia state line and extends approximately two hundred miles to Cape Lookout—front the Atlantic Ocean on one side and Pamlico Sound on the other. These islands are particularly beautiful when the summer season is over, and the area is not quite so crowded. Aside from the usual seaside opportunities, which are many and wonderful, the fishing is fantastic, kite flying is a popular pastime, and, of course, hang gliding is available. Do not be embarrassed if you just want to sit on the beach and do nothing. It’s so special. As with most beautiful seaside resorts, nature is being squeezed out and squatted upon. Natural beauty has been too frequently usurped by the proliferation of all sizes of development and convenience stores, which often prove overdone.

Kitty Hawk There is a lot to see in the Outer Banks, including the Wright Brothers’ Memorial that tops the big Kill Devil Hill at Kitty Hawk. The memorial

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is especially impressive when you learn more about Orville and Wilbur Wright. This is where aviation really began and not that long ago! The Wright Brothers changed the world forever. Tip: Go to the top of the hill at sunset. It is beautiful, and the view of the vast ocean only enhances the sight.

Duck Duck is charming, although it too has been inundated with Homo sapiens. Suffice it to say that many of the recently built houses in Duck are anything but seaside cottages!

Sanderling Resort & Spa 1461 Duck Rd. 252-261-4111 www.thesanderling.com

I visited this most attractive place to stay several years ago, and it was special then. I hear that it has grown. To me, it seems that this resort has done so sensibly and caringly. I was impressed with the most appropriate decor and the extensive wildlife art and sculpture collection, which happens to be one of the best in the country. The twelve-acre resort includes the Main Inn, where all accommodations are beautifully appointed. All rooms have kitchenettes, and depending on your room, you may have a porch with an unobstructed view of the ocean. Delightful! Bring a few fixings, and you could just hibernate for a bit, never leaving your room. The restaurant and bar are casual, offering the best of local seafood. The health club is open year-round with an indoor swimming pool, which features retractable roof panels to let in the sea breezes but not the sand. Of course, swimming or wading in the ocean is hard to avoid. Beware: If traveling in the summer, be advised that Saturday is changeover day, or the day rental houses change hands, and the traffic from Norfolk down to the bridge at Kitty Hawk can be awful . . . a parking lot.

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Ocracoke Island Although it’s a bit of a drive (to put it mildly) to reach the ferry to the island, this barrier island is worth a trip. There is something about driving your car onto the ferry and heading for an island only accessible by air or water. You will realize why the pirate Blackbeard felt safe as he walked the island. It is charming and quaint. I was there one Halloween and watched costumed children trick-or-treating up and down the small streets. The restaurants were charming, and the food was delicious but not too fancy. The accommodations were appealing. I particularly enjoyed some of the antique shops, which were made special by the locals I talked to. I learned about living on the island firsthand. I was impressed by its educational system and the students’ impressive life goals as related by several of the teachers I spoke with. This island is wonderful. A visit will be memorable, and you don’t need a passport.

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SOUTH CAROLINA

-95, heading north or south, will take you right through South Carolina. You know you are getting close to the northern border of South Carolina when you see the numerous amusing billboards emblazoned with slogans like “You never sausage a place!” and “Your sheep are all counted at South of the Border.”

I

South of the Border 3346 Highway 301 North, Dillon 800-845-6011 www.thesouthoftheborder.com

You should stop at this hokey, colorful, and pleasant place just off of I-95 at least once. The landmark Sombrero Tower beckons you to experience “SOB,” as it is called by the natives. At your next social gathering, just mention that you have stayed at SOB, and witness the response. Some will be envious, some will be incredulous, and everyone will want to know about your visit. In 1950 Alan Schafer, a man of vision, started here with just a beer stand. When he had supplies shipped to the stand, the package label read “Schafer, South of the (North Carolina) Border.” And with a Boom! it started. He convinced two Mexican boys to come work for him. One was called Pedro and the other Pancho; a theme was established, and as they say, the rest is history. Shortly thereafter, they began to import Mexican souvenirs. The complex evolved rather quickly, and soon there were many 195

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buildings in the area, including Pedro’s Pleasure Dome, with its pool, steam room, Jacuzzi, and wedding chapel. There are three hundred motel rooms and a RV campground. After parking my car, I headed to the front desk. I felt as though I were in a sort of amusement park. I was actually going to spend the night at SOB! Variety is the spice of life. There are no bellmen. My room was close by, and that was consoling. The lobby was attractive, and the check-in experience was professional. I found my room, and to my surprise it was large, and though definitely not fancy, it was clean. The dressing room area with double sinks was separate from the bathroom. The shower was appealing. Then it was time to explore SOB. My first stop on the property was the big Sombrero Tower. I decided not to take a ride, but I did go into the Mexico Shop East, which has a zillion trinkets of all varieties: junky, funky, risqué, and stupid. There are several restaurants, and I chose Pedro’s Diner. It was just a short walk. I ordered a southern fried chicken dinner cooked to order by Lois Ann. I requested my meal to go, and while I waited, I enjoyed people watching and talking to members of the staff as they passed by the counter where I was sitting. When I got back to my room, I was surprised at the amount of freshly fried chicken I had to enjoy. A first: I found a thick piece of white bread beneath the chicken to absorb the grease. I confess that the perfectly fried chicken was very good! There were also two vegetables. FYI: I did not eat the white bread, which was now considerably heavier than when first put on the plate.

I ate my dinner on the bed and turned on the TV. To my dismay, there were only three stations. Oh well. I did sleep comfortably, although I definitely suggest that SOB purchase a new mattress. Now I can say I have really stayed at SOB. Friends who knew I planned to stop there called me as I traveled north, as did others when I got home. I know they wanted to hear what I thought of the SOB experience—or were they calling to see that I had gotten home safely? Stop at SOB, and see the shops or spend the night. Consider it a learning experience.

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SANTEE

Clark’s Inn & Restaurant 114 Bradford Blvd (8910 Old Highway 86) 803-854-2141 www.clarksinnandrestaurant.com

Just off of I-95, this is a delightful inn! Everything is in place, and everyone on property is extremely polite and friendly. The rooms are attractive and clean. The dining rooms and the bar are well done, and the food is delicious. This small area of South Carolina is becoming very popular. The small population is growing rapidly, as Santee is close to many interesting places, and there are lots of golf courses. Clark’s Inn will not disappoint. The fabulous gift shop, Whimsy, has an excellent selection of gifts and home accessories. Investigate the area, and make a reservation at Clark’s. You will be glad you did.

Santee General Store 8912 Old Number Six Hwy. 803-854-2105

Even if only getting the newspaper, you will not be able to walk in without taking a look around. You will probably find something you need or suddenly want. Trinkets, jam, jellies, caps, shirts, soup and nuts, and more—this is the perfect place to get a souvenir. Enjoy! Detouring can be interesting, surprising, and even awesome. As you drive I-95, you might consider taking I-26 West to Summerville, known as “the flower town in the pines” because there are so many beautiful gardens in the area.

Woodlands Resort and Inn 125 Parson Rd., Summerville 800-774-9999 www.woodlandsinn.com

This elite historic property is exceptional. The nineteen rooms are tuned to perfection, as is the entire inn. This restored 1906 plantation is one of only four lodgings to earn the Mobil Five Star and the AAA Five

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Diamond awards for both lodging and dining. Approaching the property and seeing the impressive brick building with its four gleaming white pillars, inviting porch, and very manicured fourteen surrounding acres, you are delighted to be at Woodlands Inn. The Dining Room (843-308-2115) is more formal than the casual Pines Bar & Café, but each is a gourmet delight to please the most astute epicure. In September 2010, local attorney Johnny Linton purchased the property. He and his family are truly passionate about Woodlands and maintaining its agendas, although they have some exciting plans for their treasure. Visiting or staying at Woodlands will only be a perfect experience. Suggestion: Please make the directional signage to Woodlands more visitor friendly, especially for first timers.

CHARLESTON Read about Charleston’s impressive history, so important in the annals of the South, before visiting. It will bring this unique city alive as you explore. Voted, albeit unofficially, the best-mannered city in the nation—an accolade I will not dispute—Charleston is indeed a polite city, an attractive city, a well-dressed city, and a city of treasures. In the mid-1800s, the rich here lived an opulent life of unprecedented luxury, power, and parties. There was a mix of people. The English were in the majority, although there were many immigrants from France, Germany, Italy, and Ireland. Many religious denominations were represented. The first shots of the Civil War were fired at Fort Sumter in Charleston’s harbor. It was here that one-third of the nation’s slaves arrived in the New World to be sold on the riverfront at the market. In spite of this dark mark in history, there was a large number of free blacks in the area. It must not be overlooked these inhabitants came with skills, one of the most impressive being iron working. This is evident throughout the city. Notice the iron gates and balconies all around. In the late 1800s, Charleston faced major setbacks, including fire, invasion by Union troops, the earthquake of 1886, and the decline of the

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plantation economy as well as the cotton market. Not until World War II did Charleston regain its stature as an important port and naval base. Then, the focus turned toward preservation, restoration, and tourism. Although thwacked in 1989 by Hurricane Hugo, resilient Charleston has persevered, and it is again a wonderful city to visit and enjoy.

Sightseeing Tommy Dew’s Walking History Tour on the Market Market and Meeting streets 843-853-8687 www.onthemarkettours.com

Beginning at 11 a.m. at Market and Meeting streets, this hour-andforty-five minute tour went too quickly. I did not want it to stop. Tommy Dew, tour guide extraordinaire, brought everything I saw and heard to life. Not only does he know the area—past and present—but he obviously enjoys what he does, and you will too. Call for reservations. Charleston’s homes are impressive. A walk along the Battery will show you what magnificence prevailed in the city years ago and is still enjoyed by the lucky, present-day inhabitants. Thank goodness these buildings have been preserved. Throughout the city, you will see on many of the houses a plaque reading, “Carolopolis Award.” This award is given to individuals and organizations that have contributed to the preservation, restoration, rehabilitation, and creation of buildings in Charleston. Indeed, the natives are proud of their city, and rightly so.

French Protestant (Huguenot) Church 44 Queen St. 843-722-4385 www.frenchchurch.org

This Huguenot church located on the corner of Church and Queen streets is worth a visit. Built in 1687, the present-day church occupies the original site. In 1796 a neighborhood fire demolished the original structure, but in 1800 another Huguenot church rose in its place. The history of this beautiful, small church is a bit of a roller coaster of happenings. Visit the church, and if your schedule permits attend a service.

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Shopping King Street is a woman’s haven. Bargains are few and far between, but tempting treasures are bountiful. Antique shops are numerous and pricey.

Helen S. Martin Antiques 69 King St. 843-577-6533

Livingston Antiques 163 King St. 843-723-9697

George C. Williams 15 King St. 843-377-0290

Geo. C. Birlant & Co. 191 King St. 843-722-3842 www.birlant.com

At Birlant, a large shipment had just arrived. I could have spent hours just looking.

Book & Gift Shop of the Preservation Society of Charleston 147 King Street 843-722-4630 www.preservationsociety.org

Here you might find a few items to purchase.

Bob Ellis Shoe Store 332 King St. 843-722-2515 www.bobellisshoes.com

This emporium has more exorbitantly priced, stylistically over-the-top shoes than I have ever seen in one place. I did not see one pair of shoes

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for under $100 (maybe a hyperbole), but there were many for around $500. Take a walk around, and see these famed unique shoes. Bob Ellis’s specializes not only in the ultra shoe but also in obtaining hard-to-find sizes. There are shoes for both men and women. While speaking with vice president Barry I. Kalinsky, I learned that the store was started by his father. Obviously, the business runs in the family, as brother Jeffery opened Just Jeffrey Inc. in New York City’s Meatpacking District in 1999. How original and cutting edge can one be? The goal is for all Kalinsky stores to stress top-of-the-line customer service as well as top-of-the-line merchandise. Although MooRoo on King Street has closed, its creative owner and designer, Mary Norton, should not be left out. Her creative handbags, scarves, shoes, and the like were, yes, over the top, but her creative items had a sizeable celebrity following. Whether she expanded too quickly from her original worktable—her dining room table—or got bad advice and fell victim to the economy, the sad news is that bankruptcy was filed. I can’t be too sure, but I think we’ll see more of this creative Mary Norton. Good luck, Lady.

Nancy’s Totally You, Yet Totally New 342 King St. 843-722-1272 www.nancysofcharleston.com

This funky boutique carries decorated jeans as well as other unique items to enhance your bod. Hopefully the owner, Nancy Lerner, will be on the premises when you visit. If she is, you will see how similar the owner and the shop are. Both are a delight.

Affordables 305 King St. 843-577-6369

What a fun store! Affordables has a nice collection of apparel as well as shoes. Most all of the items I saw live up to the store’s name. I confess. I bought three pairs of shoes, unfortunately none of them from the sale shelves in the back. I left the store delighted with my creative shoe purchases. Hope you have luck.

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To elaborate in detail about King Street would fill a book in itself. From the above, I hope you get a picture of what King Street is all about. Yes, you are going to find many of the upscale chains there, but I have to say, they are not ostentatious in signage and blend in rather well. It is the unique little shops that I like to discover and explore.

City Market 188 Meeting St. 843-937-0920 www.thecharlestoncitymarket.com

Here, three different buildings house a mix of vendors, many selling wares from the area. It is interesting to watch women and men weaving handmade sweetgrass baskets—an area original. These baskets are pricey, but when you see how they are made and the time it takes, you will understand the price. The City Market is in the historic district on South Market Street, which runs parallel to the market. You will find other stores lining the street, such as the following:

Pineapples & Pelicans 99 S. Market St. 843-723-0058

Carolina Gourmet 99 S. Market St. 843-723-0058

At the above two shops you can buy postcards and do some Christmas shopping as there are many local items to choose from.

Round Robin Ltd. 1703 Savannah Hwy. 843-763-7855

This is Charleston’s leading consignment shop, and the oldest such shop in the area. It is full of items, and some are very interesting. The prices are sensible, and the shop is very clean.

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South Carolina | 203 Driving Diva Tip: I do not recommend traveling alone late at night on unfamiliar rural South Carolina roads (or on any barren road!). There are long stretches with virtually nothing. This is true too on the South Carolina interstate. You would not want to get stranded.

Hotels

Charleston Place 205 Meeting St. 843-722-4900 www.charlestonplacehotel.com

This special property is under the umbrella of Orient-Express Hotels. A fabulous hotel, it has received many awards—and rightly so. The attention to detail in the building, the decoration, and the training of the staff are exemplary. Arriving at the front door you are professionally greeted. You cannot help but be impressed by the commissioned fountain in the courtyard. This huge signature piece includes four nine-foot bronze horses topped with a sculpture of an indigenous, though now extinct, Carolina bird of prey. Upon entering the lobby, you will notice that the huge, handblown Venetian glass chandelier, the impressive Georgian open-arm staircase, the large pillars, the flowers, the marble floors, and the rather secluded reception desk all work well together. These are impressive, and the surroundings are opulent. Driving Diva Factoids: The chandelier weighs approximately 2.5 tons! The design of the staircase is a welcoming gesture in itself. It was originally designed so that the ladies could go up one side and single men the other. That way, the men could not glimpse the ankles of the ladies. The acoustics are such that one can whisper from one side of the staircase and be heard on the other. Be careful what you say!

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The rooms are large, extremely comfortable, and well appointed, with style and luxury. They have all the amenities you might want. There are single lamps by each side of the bed, which is all right but not great. The bathrooms are comfortable, and the counter space is ample. (There are no horseshoe seats, thank you!) As always, more hooks would help. The ultrawhite, crisp bed linens are 440-thread-count Egyptian cotton. Comfy! A stay at Charleston Place is already luxurious, but if you want to spoil yourself with the pièce de résistance request accommodations on the Club Floor. This does cost a bit more, but it is a most special place. The Club Floor, which occupies the top two floors, is exceptional, and the service is ongoing: complimentary breakfast, afternoon tea, cocktails and hors d’oeuvres, and after-dinner cordials are all perfectly presented. Arrangements for theater tickets and attendance at other events can be taken care of by the Club Floor staff. This floor is one of the most exceptional and attractive I have enjoyed. Indulging yourself is not all bad. Have a margarita made by talented bartender Frank Mouton, aka “the Raging Cajun.” I do not think I have ever enjoyed a more delicious margarita. He has taught his staff well, so you will not be disappointed with drinks made by his colleagues. The knowledgeable and obliging concierges gave me wonderful information on the area, as well as recommended books set in the area to read (Why We Never Dance the Charleston and The German Officer’s Boy). Spoiling the Driving Diva: One concierge went off-site (close by) to get me some fingernail-polish remover! Thank you.

On the main floor there are two galleries, which include twenty-eight upscale shops. Spa There is a very attractive, full-service spa. The treatment I enjoyed was pleasant and excellent. I adore the beautiful and inviting pool area, which has a retractable ceiling that makes it all-weather serviceable. I so admire

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that type of design. There is also a rooftop tennis court. With all these facilities, it is hard to believe you are in downtown Charleston! Dining The Charleston Grill (843-577-4522) is not to be missed, and it is to be enjoyed slowly. Dress up to do justice to this special dining experience. Bring a camera (hopefully not one with a bright flash), and take pictures of the food presentations as they are works of art. Dining at the Charleston Grill is a super experience from the time you enter the door to the time you walk back out at the end of your meal. The tablecloths and napkins are Frette linens, and the dining plates are specially designed and made for this restaurant. There is live music at the Charleston Grill, which is most pleasant. A tiny suggestion: include more romantic, Cole Porter–type selections, and turn the volume down a bit. The thousand different labels of wine, with an estimated value of $2 million, will satisfy any enologist. Another favorite is the more informal Palmetto Café on the lobby floor. You will pass by it on the way to the grill. The Thoroughbred Club is a new addition to the property. It is casual and a pleasant place to meet or just sit with a refresher in hand and a plate of nibbles. Even if you do not plan to stay at Charleston Place, take a walk-through and have a drink at the Thoroughbred Club. You will be glad you did. Congratulations to Orient-Express Hotels for being so upscale creative. Kudos also go to Paul Stracey, the general manager, who runs a very tight and very impressive ship.

Wentworth Mansion 149 Wentworth St. 843-853-1886 www.wentworthmansion.com

A jewel! An elegant and refined masterpiece! As soon as you see this magnificent building, once a private home, you know you are about to enjoy a very special encounter. Parking is in a lovely parking lot at the back of the mansion, which is where you will enter. Walk up the steps and

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into the lobby. Luxury in a quiet, private manner and a perfect ambiance surround you. The walls, the moldings (some of the most impressive I have ever seen), the floors, the windows, the chandeliers, the pressed tin ceilings, and the Tiffany stained glass are all exceptional and distinctive. If you are wondering whether I found a glitch or an oversight, the answer is no. We are speaking about a well-thought-out and perfectly maintained, magnificent property. The placement of the furniture in the rooms is excellent. The groupings divide the room into seating and sleeping areas. The king-size sleigh beds with ultra bedding provide comfort extraordinaire. The original marble fireplaces now frame ready-to-use gas logs. The bathroom is spacious with a whirlpool tub and large glass-enclosed shower. I note that the glass shower doors are some of the best fitting I have used. There is plenty of vanity space for all of your items. When I was there, the morning guests were treated to a southern-style breakfast buffet served on the enclosed porch. This is the domain of Betty Murray, who has been on the job for over thirty years. This fascinating lady will not hesitate to tell you of her encounters with the ghost of the original owner, who built the mansion. In the afternoon, tea, lemonade, and sherry are served. In the evening, wine and hors d’oeuvres are served in the parlor. Be sure to go up to the rooftop cupola with its fantastic 360-degree view of Charleston. With all the applause and accolades for the Wentworth Mansion, I am certain that the same is applicable for Circa 1886 (843853-7828, www.circa1886.com), the gourmet restaurant located in the original carriage house on the property. Some say it is the most elegant, comfortable, and prettiest restaurant in Charleston. It certainly looks as such. I did not have time to dine at Circa 1886. There is now also a spa on property, creatively located in the former stables. Small as it is, it offers all the “usuals,” just without so many rooms or agendas. The mansion is under the umbrella of Charming Inns of Charleston (800-720-2688, www.charminginns.com). Other hotels operated by this company include the John Rutledge House Inn, Kings Courtyard Inn, Victoria House Inn, and Fulton Lane Inn.

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ISLE OF PALMS

Wild Dunes Resort 4600 Palm Blvd. 888-778-1876 www.wilddunes.com

About thirty minutes from downtown Charleston, this is a private, sixteenhundred-acre oceanfront property. On one side is the Atlantic Ocean, and on the other is the Intercostal Waterway. Managed by Destination Hotels & Resorts, this property truly has a little bit of something for everyone. The beach is exceptional. The resort has two world-class golf courses and seventeen Har-Tru tennis courts, five of which are lighted for night play.

Boardwalk Inn 4600 Palm Blvd. 843-886-6000 www.wilddunes.com/isle-of-palms-vacation-rentals.php

This hotel has ninety-three rooms. A competent bellman drove my car to the complimentary parking lot nearby. Check-in was routine, but a bellman was not immediately available (due to a rush of activities), so I carried my bag and easily found my room. Not a problem. Apologies were profuse. The rooms were most pleasant but not fancy. The bedside lamps were not great for reading. The TV channel guide could have been on a more substantial card rather than a regular piece of paper. Housekeeping should be reminded to look behind the nightstands for candy wrappers and the like. The bathroom was a nice size, but it had a horseshoe toilet seat. The bath towels were ample. There was a coffeemaker, which I used and enjoyed. During my time at Wild Dunes, it rained intermittently for two days. Still, the resort’s potentials could not be hidden. I had a fabulous time kayaking.

Coastal Expeditions Forty-First Ave. 843-886-9590 www.coastalexpeditions.com

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My guide, Brad Floyd, was excellent. Obviously a skilled kayaker and waterman, he was also knowledgeable about the low country and all we visited. As we said our goodbyes, he gave me a book titled Exploring Bull Island: Sailing and Walking around a South Carolina Sea Island. I then learned that he is also an excellent photographer. His photos enhance the book. Driving Diva Tip: Kayaking is a must. Don’t worry if you have never done this fun sport or if being in shape is a condition of your past. There are kayaks for two. This means it’s really the guide who keeps things moving. I can attest to that from my kayaking experience.

The spa at Wild Dunes is well run and enjoyable, although better signage could signal where it is located. The treatment I had was pleasant. I hear that a new spa has been built, and upgrades and such have been made. There is complimentary limo service to and from places at Wild Dunes. I used the service several times, especially to go to dinner at Edgar’s.

Dining Dinner at the Sea Island Grill (843-886-2260) at the Boardwalk Inn was delightful. The appetizer of crabmeat was tasty. The entrée of lamb was delicious. My dinner date, Andressa Fonvielle Chapman, director of marketing communications, filled me with interesting information of all varieties about Wild Dunes and the area. Edgar’s (843-886-2296) serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Located in the Links Clubhouse, it is a pleasant, casual restaurant with a bar adjacent to the main dining room. The menu consists of Italian as well as Low-Country cuisine. I had decided that a tiny meal would be sensible. I definitely recommend Edgar’s Low-Country she-crab soup. It was just right. I also enjoyed the Italian-style house salad. It was just the perfect combination after a busy two days. The prices were sensible. The Dunes Deli & Pizzeria (843-886-2233), located next to the Harbor Golf Shop, offers deli-style sandwiches. It is a casual place with the usual casual fare. I enjoyed a BLT.

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In the past three years, there have been a lot of upgrades; four-star rooms have been added, and attention to the ever-present beach erosion is ongoing. Many new additions have been tackled at this attractive, comfortable family beach resort.

KIAWAH ISLAND

The Sanctuary One Sanctuary Beach Dr. 843-768-6000 www.thesanctuary.com

What a masterpiece located about forty minutes from Charleston! The Sanctuary’s doors opened in August 2004. After an easy, at times a bucolic, drive (just follow the signs), you will be greeted at the gate and then directed to the spacious main entrance, which can accommodate a lot of cars arriving at the same time. This shows very good planning! From the time you arrive, efficiency and professionalism are evident. I particularly like the fact that there is a parking lot close by, and access at any time to your car is easy. Valet parking is also available. Upon entering the main lobby, you see that construction of this relatively new property received tremendous thought. The ambiance is similar to that of an old-world castle that has been meticulously maintained. Be sure to take a tour of the property and learn about the Sanctuary. After checking in, I was shown to my room, where the bags had already arrived. Walking to my room, I could not help but notice the attention to detail and artistic accoutrements all around. The hallways and carpeting are perfect. The two alternating patterns of the carpets were obviously chosen carefully. The rooms are well appointed—not garish or trendy but tastefully planned. In the room there is a sofa area. The draperies, curtains, and sheers form a very nice treatment that covers the entire wall, including the very wide glass doors to the balcony. The view is of the garden and ocean. You see other porches and people, but they are not too close.

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The bathrooms are spacious and among the best I’ve seen. The tub was the perfect size (long and narrow), and the sides were not too high to get in and out easily. By the tub, a louvered window opened into the bedroom. This seems to be a trendy decorative touch. By closing the louvers, you can loll in the tub privately; if you leave them open, you can watch TV while soaking—or speak to whomever might be in the room. The glass shower is large, and the showerhead is excellent. There is a private water closet with phone and no horseshoe seat! The existing bathroom light is not the best for precise application of makeup. Perhaps supplying a handheld beauty mirror would suffice. The towels are excellent in thickness and size. With 255 guest rooms, there are many choices for accommodations, including standard rooms, junior suites, an executive suite, and the thirtyone-hundred-square-foot presidential suite. Dining at the Sanctuary is an absolute wonderful experience. The Jasmine Porch (843-768-6253), the more informal dining room, is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Tall hanging draperies tied back portion off the large and well-appointed dining area. You don’t feel dwarfed by the size of the room, which is in fact really quite pleasant. For breakfast there is the large buffet and a made-to-order omelet station. Speaking from experience, lunch was just right. I had the roasted corn and she-crab soup plus the toasted lobster salad wrap. At dinner, after I was seated, the host, knowing I was alone, asked me if I would like a newspaper. I said, “No, thank you,” but it was a thoughtful offer. Dinner was nearly perfect from the time the host greeted me until the last sip of an after-dinner decaf demitasse. To begin with, I had fried green tomatoes that had a tiny bit too much batter but were still good. Next was the baby spinach salad with goat cheese, and that was fine. The entrée was a signature shrimp and grits meal, and it was superb. I was pleasantly surprised that it wasn’t extremely filling. For dessert the recommended key lime crème brûlée was delicious. The style and demeanor of the staff, who walk often with hands behind their backs and with definite assuredness and pleasant expressions, are nice to watch. These men and women are definitely well trained and seem to like their positions. The Jasmine Porch was quite full, but there were no long delays, and service was prompt and friendly.

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The Ocean Room (843-768-6253) at the Sanctuary is the more formal dining room, and it is exceptional. The attention to detail is outstanding— from the black dinner napkins to the small bench placed next to the chair to hold a lady’s pocketbook. Few details are overlooked. Dinner was a delicious delight in every way possible. I took some of the suggestions of the hostess and waitress. Delicious, warm, soft breads were served with a three-division plate for a butterball, some oil, and a calamari cream cheese ball. The appetizer was a seared diver scallop with fennel-pear mousseline and petite golden purslane salad. The crispness of the scallop was so perfect, and the combination of the additions made for an ultimate appetizer. For a not too big appetite, two servings of this appetizer with a cup of soup would be just right. Between courses, a dollop of a chef’s delight is served. A corn truffle on a small Oriental spoon was one. A delicious shiraz was served. A grilled filet mignon with mushroom mousseline, herbed goat cheese fritter, and asparagus under a black truffle–red wine vinaigrette proved a superb entrée. For dessert I asked if it would be possible to have a tiny sampling of the offerings. Brilliant! What delicious dollops of decadence. The ice creams are homemade, and they serve a coke float! A cup of decaf espresso finished my delicious dining experience at the Ocean Room. The Lobby Bar is an excellent meeting place. Here you can enjoy signature cocktails and piano melodies at the end of your evening. The Loggerhead Grill (843-768-6253) is open seasonally from 11 a.m. onward. The Grill overlooks the pools and the Atlantic Ocean and it is a good place for informal and easy dining. There is also Beaches & Cream, Tomasso at Turtle Point Club House, Osprey Point Grill, Haulover Creek Bar & Grill, and The Market at Town Center in East Beach Village. Complimentary coffee and tea are served in the morning in the lobby by the reception desk. Whole fresh fruit is also available. I took my morning coffee onto the porch, and it was delightful. There are several interesting shops. Be sure to visit the Signature Shop. You can obtain Mascioni bedding used at the Sanctuary, robes, bedspreads, and shams, as well as the furniture used in the rooms. There is the Kiawah Golf Shop, the Sanctuary Gourmet Shop and Sanctuary Home, Boutique Julie, and the Wells Gallery.

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The pristine, ten-mile Kiawah beachfront is magnificent. Whether swimming, walking, bicycling, or just sitting, counting the waves, and feeling the sea breezes, you’ll enjoy contentment. The tennis courts have been rated among the best. There are twentythree clay courts and five hard courts as well as a practice court. The golf courses include the Ocean Course (which hosted the 1991 Ryder Cup and the 2007 Senior PGS Championship), Turtle Point, Osprey Point, Cougar Point, and Oat Point. There are also the Atlantic Room at the Ocean Course Club House. Swimming, be it in the ocean or pool, you will enjoy. There are paths all over the island for bicycling. The Spa at the Sanctuary is professional, well organized, and attractive. There are twelve spacious treatment rooms as well as the special privatetreatment suite, which accommodates two people. Several different spa services are offered, including the “Ocean Fossil Mineral Treatment,” “Island Infusion,” “Lowcountry Verbena Body Polish,” and “Toning Seaweed Body Treatment.” The signature massage is “Body Wraptures,” which features “warm grain and herb filled wraps that induce deep relaxation.” I enjoyed and recommend this wrapture. After obtaining the ultimate relaxed state with your massage, you can enjoy the waters. There is a vitality mineral whirlpool, plus steam rooms, saunas, a fitness center, and solariums for relaxation. After leaving the Sanctuary, I made a few stops and discoveries just off of Route 17.

JOHNS ISLAND

Stono Market 842 Main Rd. 843-559-9999 www.stonomarket.com

Rather than use my words, I’ll quote from the brochure: “Produce/ Shrimp/Prepared Food/Jellies & Jams/Special Gifts: Produce harvested fresh from our farm (and other farms too). Shrimp caught in our trawler. Our produce and shrimp are natural, healthy and unaltered or prepared deliciously with good taste and your health in mind. No preservatives used.”

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The fresh produce looked picture perfect, and though tempting to take, it would not have survived well on a long, hot drive. I purchased the Stono Market Garlic Vinaigrette with Olive Oil Dressing. Oh my goodness! It is so delicious. The market also has a lunch menu, which, each time I have had the pleasure, is delicious.

Charleston Tea Plantation 6617 Maybank Hwy., Wadmalaw Island 800-443-5987 www.charlestonteaplantation.com

This is America’s only tea plantation. Approximately twenty-five minutes outside of Charleston, it is just a short distance from Stono Market. Here, American Classic Tea is produced. Admission is free. An informative tour takes the visitor through the processing areas. It is not a long tour; nor is there a lot of walking. It is fascinating to see how tea is made. Enjoy the tea sampling and the opportunity to purchase tea and tea-related items. I thoroughly enjoyed the Charleston Tea Plantation and recommend a visit. I was just told about the Irvin House Vineyards on Wadmalow Island.

Irvin House Vineyards 6775 Bears Bluff Rd. 843-559-6867 www.charlestonwine.com

Of course, there is the wine, but now they have created Firefly Vodka— wine-infused vodka! Their newest is Firefly Sweet Tea. Oh my, I wonder— but reports state that both potions are very good. There is a bluegrass festival and a grape-stomping festival. Whoa! Fun indeed, I am sure.

Inn at Palmetto Bluff 476 Mount Pelia Rd., Bluffton 843-706-6500 www.palmettobluffresort.com

First, I must state that I have not been to this property, but I include it for several reasons. It is an Auberge Resort, and that group’s properties are among the select ultras. I have never heard a derogatory word about the

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Inn at Palmetto Bluff. I have been to other properties run by their general manager, and he does a fantastic job. The Inn at Palmetto Bluff, thirty minutes from the Savannah airport, has fifty individual guest cottages and cottage suites discreetly placed along the riverbank. Large “Village Homes” are also available. There are several places to dine, and the spa located on an adjoining island offers all the elite services. There is golf at the May River Golf Club. Guests have complimentary use of equipment for canoeing, kayaking, and fishing. There are equestrian facilities, tennis, croquet, bocce, and bicycling, or you can just sit on one of the wide porches and dream. In the beautiful Low Country of South Carolina, Palmetto Bluff, I am positive, will not disappoint.

YEMASSEE (POPULATION APPROXIMATELY 800) This very rural town is just a short distance off of I-95. I have learned about Yemassee because friends restored a wonderful historic plantation and working farm in this community. Every time I visit, I feel like I should be wearing a big hoop skirt. There are a lot of large and impressive properties as well as interesting history. Just off of I-95 by Yemassee, there is an outlet store for cutlery and cookware.

BEAUFORT In this very beautiful and charming place, time has not taken to the fast track. If you saw the movies The Prince of Tides or The Big Chill, then you’ve glimpsed Beaufort through the magic of the cinema. This rare, charismatic area has been called “the Newport of the South” due to the antebellum mansions built with style and prominence by wealthy planters and inhabitants. Many have colonnaded porches to make use of the available winds off the water. Live oaks with hanging strands of Spanish moss are everywhere. Everything is clean and attractive, at least from what I

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saw. Everyone is friendly. If you hear the clomping of horses’ hooves and the rolling of wooden wheels, these sounds come from the carriages available for touring. There are lots of little shops, and the ones I visited were attractive, not too overpriced, and very friendly. The waterfront area is a gem, as is Beaufort itself. Do I want to go back? Indeed, and probably often.

Rhett House Inn 1009 Craven St. 843-524-9030 www.rhetthouseinn.com

Beautiful, well run, and friendly, the Rhett House is within walking distance of practically everything. Upon my arrival, I found on-site parking at the back of the inn. Two big outdoor cats had draped themselves over the back steps and gave me a one-eyed welcome, but they didn’t budge. What a greeting! Alas, I have just learned that the two members of my welcoming committee have gone on to “catland,” but their spirits are still on property. Upon entering, you admire, and probably smile at, what you see. The high-gloss floors with Oriental rugs, the white upholstered chairs, and the dark-wood furniture against pastel walls are all placement perfect. In the living room, there is an honor bar. Soft drinks are complimentary, as are the tea and homemade cookies. There is a dining room with small tables, and there are more tables on the large porch, which is where I had a perfect Rhett House breakfast—among the best I have had. In the evening, desserts are served buffet style in the spacious kitchen/office area, and ice cream is available. (Oh yes!) Both breakfast and the desserts are complimentary and very delicious. FYI: These delicious delectables are prepared while you sleep and are as fresh as fresh can be.

My room on the second floor (there are rooms on the first floor as well) was comfortable and extremely well appointed and decorated. It had living room and sleeping areas. The bathroom was cozy and cheery. Interesting

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and upscale magazines were on the table, and more were on the table in the hall. Whether due to the talents of the owners who divide themselves between New York City and Beaufort or the people they have hired—probably both—the Rhett House is charming in practically every imaginable way.

Plum’s Café 901 Bay St. 843-525-1946 www.plumsrestaurant.com

This café I found to be deliciously, totally perfect. Chef extraordinaire and owner Lantz Price was cooking the night I was there. Oh my! I enjoyed the best steamed mussels I have ever devoured. Plum’s lump blue crab cake with wasabi coleslaw and Thai red chili sauce was another the best. “Homemade and fresh” is a Plum’s mantra. The bar is friendly, and the bartender was excellent. The prices at Plum’s Café are sensible. I have just learned that Plum’s has expanded. With good food and a good ambiance, popularity necessitates growth. Good going!

Saltus River Grill 802 Bay St. 843-379-3474 (FISH) www.saltusrivergrill.com

This grill is also owned by Lantz Price. Need I say more? Saltus is a vibrant and popular restaurant in historic downtown Beaufort. When I was there, it was full. I had just eaten at Plum’s, so I asked people about their meals. All comments rated the food excellent, and I believe them. I learned that the building is an old landmark and was originally the site of the Saltus and Talbird Shipyard. In the 1950s it was the Belk-Simpson Department Store. When Lantz Price purchased the building, he and designer Whitney Rietz maintained its historic integrity, and this focus is obvious throughout the establishment. A long bar is the imbibing hub of the restaurant. The roomy booths for dining are comfortable and attractive. I found the restaurant a bit noisy, but that was probably due to the enthusiasm of the diners. Looking at the menu, I saw all priced as you would expect. I look forward to dining at Saltus.

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Reservations for the dining room are a good idea. The patio and bar are seated on a first-come, first-served basis. Jim Spratling is the executive chef of Plum’s Inc. What an outstanding marriage for Chef Jim and Plum’s owner Lance P. Group.

Beaufort Inn 809 Port Republic St. 888-522-0250 www.beaufortinn.com

This inn gets the best recommendations. I look forward to seeing for myself, but it all looks and sounds just right. Foods are prepared by the highly acclaimed catering firm Southern Graces (www.southerngraces catering.com).

Nippy’s 310 West St. 843-379-8555

Common Ground Coffeehouse Market Café 102 West St. Ext. 843-252-7664

Common Ground has very good coffee, which I enjoyed, and the ambiance was perfect. It is a place to meet for chatter or to sit and read. It is not expensive, and the brews are delicious.

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GEORGIA

ucked into the northeastern corner of Georgia is Clarkesville, home to the Glen Ella Springs Inn, which friends had raved about and recommended that I visit. Finding the place was easier said than done. As instructed in an e-mail, I turned off of I-85, but I couldn’t immediately find any of the roads stated in my directions. I stopped and got directions at a nearby gas station, but then got lost again. This is not my usual format! The poor signage made me wonder if this area was intended for members of a witness-protection program.

T

Note: There is old 441 and new 441. Reluctantly but out of necessity, I called Glen Ella for directions. “When you make the turn, and the hard road stops, keep on the dirt road, and you will get to us.” This I did, and hurrah! There it was—a long, wooden building on my left festooned with long porches and rocking chairs. The immediate area was surrounded by beautiful trees and flowers. I had arrived at beautiful Glen Ella Springs Inn.

Glen Ella Springs Inn 1789 Bear Gap, Clarksville 706-754-7295 www.glenella.com

This bucolic oasis, created, owned, and operated by the very gracious Barrie and Bobby Aycock for over twenty-one years, is worth getting a 218

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little lost for. Since I visited, new owners have taken the helm—young Luci and Ed Kivett. They plan to retain the beauty, traditions, and charming qualities of this special and bucolic property. Glen Ella is lovely and relaxing. After I arrived, I was shown to my room and informed that dinner was being served. A few personal touches later, I promptly made my way to the dining room. The hostess greeted me, and then, as is the tradition, I was casually introduced to other guests. Once I was seated, the chef came to my table, and we decided that I would be delighted to try whatever he prepared, “just no blue cheese, please.” I learned that the county was dry, but a friendly and gregarious couple—who lived just down the road—offered me a glass of their wine. Delightful! The chef started me with an excellent cream soup, followed by a spinach salad. The main course was salmon on a “shingle” served with very large, tender asparagus and chopped tomatoes with herbs—a very nice presentation. Dessert was a molten chocolate cake, which is like a soufflé with a soft center. Although I’m not a chocoholic, this was delicious. Indeed, I enjoyed a delightful dinner. My room at the inn was country casual and very relaxing. There was no TV, but there was a phone. The bathroom had a long mirror on the door and a safety bar to hold on to in the bathtub area, two nice touches that are often overlooked. I decided that if you couldn’t sleep well in this charming, idyllic setting, then you needed to get your head examined. The next morning I opened my door to check the temperature and was greeted by singing birds, bright gardens, and the strong aroma of breakfast wafting toward me. Before I knew it, I was at the breakfast table ordering fresh fruit, waffles, juice, and coffee. The buttermilk waffles were so good that I was tempted to ask for more but refrained, although I did get a copy of the recipe. Glen Ella is recognized as the “best gourmet inn in the north Georgia mountains,” and I can’t argue with that. Tallulah Gorge State Park, a short drive from Glen Ella, is a spectacular chasm two miles long and almost one thousand feet deep. A succession of five beautiful waterfalls has been nicknamed “the Niagara of the South.” One can walk the roughly seven hundred steps to the bottom, but I recommend doing so only if the weather is conducive (that is, cool) and you’re in shape and not in a rush. This gorge has tempted a couple of tightrope walkers, most recently Karl Wallenda of the famous family of

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circus performers in 1970. This state park is not on the usual travel roster, although it should be. So, put it on yours, and go and enjoy.

ATLANTA Finding my way around this big, bustling city was, I thought, a bit confusing. A newcomer might consider parking the car and taking a bus or a taxi. For the shopper, the Buckhead neighborhood is the place to go. Also worth seeing is the Fox Theatre, a grand and ornate relic of the Depression era.

Fox Theatre 660 Peachtree St. NE 404-881-2100 www.foxtheatre.org

This was originally the Yaarab Temple Shrine Mosque, designed as headquarters for the Shriners organization. Gone with the Wind premiered at the Fox in 1939, and the star-studded reception was held next door in the grand ballroom of the landmark Georgian Terrace Hotel.

The Georgian Terrace 659 Peachtree St. NW 404-897-1991 www.thegeorgianterrace.com

At one time a grand dame, this hotel was pleasant when I was there but definitely needed some major upgrading. With new owners, I have discovered, lots has been done, and in fact a second phase is about to begin. Built in 1911, the hotel still shows its stateliness and charm. It indeed has a fashionable history. After hosting the reception for the premiere of Gone with the Wind in 1939, it has welcomed many celebrities, from Enrico Caruso to today’s rich and famous. There are 319 complete suites with a full kitchen, washer/dryer, and special bath amenities. The rooftop swimming pool, sun deck, and necessary accoutrements are enhanced by a panoramic view of Atlanta. There are new restaurants—

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new everything. The revamped and more glamorous Georgian Terrace is definitely a must-see. The area around the Fox Theatre and Georgian Terrace Hotel seems to be thriving. The following restaurants were there when I visited, but they seem to be closed for renovations.

Eno Restaurant and Wine Bar 800 Peachtree St. NE, #A 404-685-3191

Mary Mac’s Tea Room 224 Ponce de Leon Ave. 404-876-1800 www.marymac’s.com

A landmark institution since 1945, Mary Mac’s Tea Room is within walking distance of the Fox and the Georgian Terrace. Famous for homestyle southern cooking—it was called a “tearoom” because women did not open restaurants back then—Mary Mac’s is the last of the originals. In 1960 Mary Lupo bought the tearoom, and over the next thirty years, it grew in size and popularity. John Ferrell purchased Mary Mac’s in 1994, and it continues today with much of the original menu. I had to wait a bit for a table, and am I glad I did! The famous fried chicken, fried green tomatoes, and sweet potato soufflé (more like mashed sweets) all proved very, very delicious. Dessert was hot Georgian peach cobbler with ice cream, accompanied by a delicious cup of coffee. What a lunch! The prices are reasonable, the calories deliciously high, and the ambiance joyous.

The Lucky Exchange 212 Ponce De Leon Ave. 404-817-7715 www.luckyexchange.com

Just down from Mary Mac’s, I discovered this consignment shop owned by two women. It proved to be a cute, clean store with vintage items as well as racks of au courant fashions. I have learned that these ladies have opened another Lucky Exchange at 749 Moreland Ave. in Atlanta (404622-4849).

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CNN 1 CNN Center 404-827-2800 www.edition.cnn.com/tour/atlanta

This headquarters of the Cable News Network (CNN) has total TV facilities, such as newsrooms, studios, and the like. The office space is occupied by CNN and parent company Turner Broadcasting System, a division of Time Warner. It is very interesting to take a CNN tour. Tidbit: The atrium escalator is listed by Guinness World Records as the longest free-standing escalator in the world—supported only at the ends. Personal Sidebar: After my first book, The Moving Experience, was published, I was invited to appear on one of CNN’s shows. Younger and full of excitement—and chills—I arrived at CNN. The husband and wife team (if I remember correctly) was very glamorous and professional and made the entire experience very pleasant, although I am sure my nerves were exploding. Somehow, I got to see behind the scenes. During my time in the world of advertising and TV, I had been in many TV studios, but there was no question that CNN was state-of-the-art. I was very impressed. Indeed, Ted Turner knows how to do it! (I won’t define “it” when discussing this true Renaissance man.) I have often wondered if the man who waved and gestured at me as I drove away was the man himself. I have subsequently done other presentations on CNN, always delighted but not quite as full of chills as that first time.

One cannot write about Atlanta “properly” and not include Mr. Ted Turner. If the city ever has to change its name, it must be renamed “Turner” . . . Turner, Georgia. That definitely has the right ring. So much has been written about Turner, but one of his latest endeavors is among my favorites: Ted Turner’s Montana Grill. I adore the all-ecofriendly concept. The foods are delicious, and before you squinch up your nose at the thought of bison, try it. It is delicious and healthy. Everything at the Montana Grill is absolutely delectable. For more on this establishment, see the New York chapter, where I tell the super straw story.

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BRUNSWICK Mention Brunswick, Georgia, to I-95 regulars like “snow birds,” and they will undoubtedly refer to it as the place where they stop for the night on their treks south or north. For many years I was one of them, staying at the Hampton Inn and dining at KFC or Cracker Barrel, both nearby. It wasn’t until 2005 that I discovered historic downtown Brunswick, a small area centered at the intersection of Newcastle and Gloucester streets and a shopper’s mecca. Newcastle Street also boasts a relic from the five-andten-cent-store days, the impressive S. H. Kress building, and a full marina is right there on the waterway,

Main Street Gourmet Gift Baskets and Plants 1514 Newcastle St. 912-265-9696

Brown’s Antiques 1328 Newcastle St. 912-265-6099

Hattie’s Books 1531 Newcastle St. 912-554-8677 www.hattiesbooks.com

City Drug Store 1402 Newcastle St. 912-265-7630

Stay Focused Eye Care 1400 Newcastle St. 912-265-8852

Encore Consignment Boutique 5427 Altama Ave. 912-265-7101

Antiques Etc. 1601 Newcastle St. 912-265-3666

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You have a very good chance of finding the something you have wanted right here in this large collection of shops under one roof. Yes, there are many antiques but also lots and lots of et ceteras. There are some most attractive collections, and a visit is definitely worth the short drive off of I-95 to the historic district of Brunswick.

Entre Nous 1519 Newcastle St. 912-264-8444

I certainly didn’t expect to find such an attractive, upscale resale shop here. The variety of clothes and accessories is impressive. This is a mustvisit.

Cargo Portside Grill 1423 Newcastle St. 912-267-7330 www.cargoportsidegrill.com

At this wonderful, charming eatery, the food is splendid. Jason Ridinger is the owner and chef extraordinaire. I have never had anything that was not outrageously delicious. Jason and his wife, Christie, orchestrate everything brilliantly at this dining oasis. At the smallest mention of Cargo, conversation turns to questions of “Have you tried . . . ?” I could easily affix to every described morsel the adjective “superb.” Cargo Portside is one of those very special little restaurants that you can’t wait to return to and enjoy. Whether you are staying in Brunswick or not, a visit to Cargo is worth a detour. It would probably be best to call for a reservation, although this is one of those places where sitting at the bar is comfortable and enjoyable. FYI: Supposedly—and who am I to doubt it—Brunswick is famous for its stew. Here’s the recipe from the North Carolina Convention and Visitors Bureau. This is an all-day project, but it’s worth it.

Brunswick Stew 1 3-lb. chicken 1 lb. lean pork

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1 lb. lean beef 3 medium onions, chopped Place meat in a large, heavy pot. Season with salt and pepper. Add onions and cover with water. Cook until meat falls from the bones (several hours). Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Tear meat into shreds and return to stock. Add the following: 4 cans (16 oz.) tomatoes 5 T. Worchestershire sauce 1.5 bottles (14 oz.) ketchup 1 T. Tabasco 2 bay leaves 0.5 bottle (12 oz.) chili sauce 0.5 t. dry mustard 0.5 stick butter Cook for one hour, occasionally stirring to prevent sticking. Add the following: 3 T. vinegar 2 cans (16 oz.) small lima or butter beans 2 cans (16 oz.) cream-style corn 1 can (15 oz.) small English peas 3 small Irish potatoes, diced 1 box frozen okra, sliced (optional) Cook slowly until thick.

THE GOLDEN ISLES OF GEORGIA (LITTLE ST. SIMONS ISLAND, ST. SIMONS ISLAND, SEA ISLAND, AND JEKYLL ISLAND) Little St. Simons Island Reached only by boat, Little St. Simons Island is one of the few remaining privately owned barrier islands off the coast of Georgia. The lodge and cottages accommodate thirty guests in fifteen rooms. Rates may seem

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expensive, but when you consider that they include three gourmet meals, beverages of any variety, all sporting gear, activities like horseback riding, and access to ten thousand acres, the rate doesn’t sound so bad. Have a family reunion and take over the entire island! For more information, call 888-733-5774 or 912-638-7472 or visit www.littlestsimonsisland .com.

St. Simons Island The place to stay on St. Simons Island is the King and Prince Beach and Golf Resort.

King and Prince Beach and Golf Resort 201 Arnold Rd. 912-638-3631 www.kingandprince.com

Large but personable, the accommodations are delightful, and as soon as you open a window, your room fills with ocean sounds and sea air. A member of the Historic Hotels of America, this property opened in 1935, and in more recent years, it has been named “Georgia’s Favorite Resort” by Southern Living. Dinner in the dining room, King’s Tavern, was alright. The King and Prince does offer a beautiful beach, tennis, golf, pool activities, and probably more creative meals. This is definitely a place to visit. St. Simons is a beach town with a plethora of shops and restaurants. Though I haven’t eaten there (yet), Barbara Jean’s has an excellent reputation and is especially known for its signature crab cakes.

Barbara Jean’s 214 Mallory St. 912-634-6500 www.barbarajeans.com

Sea Island The following was written before “things” changed at Sea Island. I feel that in this instance, the history and credits should be mentioned, even if the

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plans for this unique property got zapped and took an unfathomable turn. Bankruptcy was declared in August 2010. The Jones family and the Sea Island Company have been generous supporters of the area, and all can only hope that the new owners will continue in that vein. Here is what it was like before. Sea Island is a privately owned five-mile-long island with the Atlantic Ocean on one side and a wide salt marsh separating it from St. Simons Island on the west. Beginning over seventy years ago, the Jones family meticulously designed, maintained, and regularly upgraded this island utopia under the auspices of the Sea Island Company. Four generations later, the family-owned enterprise led by Bill Jones III included the Cloister, the Lodge at Sea Island, the Lodge at Cabin Bluff, Ocean Forest Golf Club, Frederica Golf Club, and residential communities on Sea Island and St. Simons Island.

The Cloister at Sea Island 100 Cloister Dr. 912-638-3611 www.seaisland.com

The original Cloister was a special place. The old building is “history,” and a $350 million investment was made. The new Cloister was wisely built in the original’s classic Mediterranean style to create one of the finest resorts in North America. Inspired by the late renowned Palm Beach architect Addison Mizner, architect Peter Capone and interior designer Pamela Hughes have done a superb job of combining old-world charm with modern convenience. Your magical experience begins when you are cleared at the gate and pull under the Cloister’s porte cochere. Entering the grand three-story Colonial Lounge—festooned with gold filigree and chandeliers—you are in awe. The upholstered furniture is an old-world mix of baronial but inviting design fabrics. The Oriental rugs were commissioned, designed, and woven only for the Cloister by George Jevremovic’s Woven Legends of Philadelphia (215-849-8344, www.wovenlegends.com). Guest rooms occupy the second and third floors. Each of the 156 guest rooms had its own butler when I was there and, yes, twenty-four-hour service. As of this writing, the butlers have, for now, been put on sabbatical.

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The rooms themselves are beautifully appointed with art, antiques, and decorative accessories from around the world. The bathroom amenities include Bulgari toiletries, heated towel bars, thick, plush robes, and large, dense towels. (One item missing, at least in my room, was a full-length mirror.) The unique pièce de résistance of the room is stationery personalized for each guest. Superb is an understatement for the Cloister. There are many dining facilities. The Georgian Room (800-7324752, ext. 4347) features continental cuisine. A coat and tie are required at dinner. This should be a mandate for all restaurants offering upscale dining. 100 Hudson, formerly the Main Dining Room, features seafood and regional fare. It is a more casual atmosphere, and that applies to attire as well. FYI: The Hudson automobile was created by Howard Coffin, founder of the Sea Island Company.

The River Bar provides light fare all day and evening. There are also several dining options at the Beach Club and the Lodge. I absolutely enjoyed all my meals except for my “in-room dining.” I was tired and take part of the blame: due to fatigue, I ordered something relatively bland— spaghetti with shrimp. The spaghetti was dry and lacked flavor. The dessert cookie was more like a cake, but I confess that I ate the whole thing. Tip: Wherever you choose to dine, check dress code. That is true for all resorts you visit. A jacket is mandatory for males of all ages to pack and wear. Even at the festive and competitive traditional Cloister Bingo on Tuesdays and Thursdays, there is a dress code. As is printed, Manners Matter. That’s a given at this most special of places.

One of my favorite rooms at the Cloister is the Solarium; it’s bright and sunny with a mix of the best fabrics from Scalamandre, Clarence House, Cowtan and Tout, and more. Here you can enjoy morning coffee or afternoon tea. Cookies and lemonade or ice tea are also put out in the afternoon during the summer, and cider, coffee, and cookies are served in

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the winter. There is also a small chapel adjacent to the solarium. It’s so special and so wonderful. Sports at the Cloister include golf, fishing, water sports, sailing, tennis, horseback riding, building sand castles, thinking, and dreaming. Interestingly, the resort also has one of the finest shooting schools in the United States. Beach Club at the Cloister This beautiful beach has all the accoutrements one could desire, including 160,000 square feet of beauty, nature, fun, sea, and three pools. There are treats of all varieties: from supervised children’s activities to shuffleboard to ice-cream cones to just simply enjoying the beach. Your dining choices at the Beach Club include Big George’s Raw Bar and Grill, The Snack Bar, The Coffee Shop, Beach Bar, and The Ice Cream Parlor. I had a delicious breakfast at Big George’s. The designers of the Beach Club have thought of everything—even where to place the plants, chairs, and lounges. They had no choice about the placement of the Atlantic Ocean, but my, how it all blends together beautifully. Note: The spa is for both the Cloister and the Lodge as well as members. I place it here as it is on the Cloister property.

Spa The new spa opened in mid-November 2006. You cannot imagine what this sixty-five-thousand-square-foot building is like, and to describe it, concentrate as I may, I cannot find adequate words. It is unique and unbelievable. As you walk in, you are immediately transported to another realm. The sounds of running water, the foliage, the walls, the floors, and the floor areas of glass covered with grillwork and water flowing underneath are anything but run-of-the-mill! The underground waters flow north, south, east, and west. The huge preserved trees in the sunken entrance center, the fountain, the “everythings” are just wonderful. There are twenty-three treatment rooms, five studios for Pilates, yoga, and personal training, three squash courts, and an indoor pool. Everyone at the

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spa is professional and very knowledgeable. Your spa experience will be memorable. After your treatment with oils and such, it is time to go and have your hair washed and blown dry. Check the Salon’s schedules and availability. Not a thing has been overlooked. Make your reservations.

The Lodge at Sea Island Golf Club 100 Retreat Ave. 912-634-3992 www.seaisland.com

Opened in 2001 and achieving from its inception the AAA Five Diamond and Mobil Five Star accolades, the Lodge—inside and out—is truly awesome in the utmost sense of the word, with the ultimate traditions of golf ongoing. Upon entering, you are surrounded by old-world charm, style, and splendor. The Lodge has but forty rooms and two parlor suites. Each room is perfect in every way. Some of the rooms have balconies, and I can attest that it’s a delight to enjoy overlooking the fairways and the waters, especially at the end of the day when the majestic notes of the lone bagpiper fill the air. There is something singular about the strains of the bagpipe wafting over the marshes and filling the skies. Each person hears the bagpipes distinctively. The instrument is almost magical. If a guest needs anything, a meticulously trained butler is on call— around the clock. At your service, these men and women are discreet and anxious to serve. Golf at the Lodge is world-class. Not only do the fifty-four holes at Plantation, Seaside, and Retreat please, challenge, and at times probably frustrate the player, but there is something about the beautiful vistas that soothe. Dining Lunch at the Oak Room would be hard to surpass. I had a favorite, if not signature, selection—a cup of corn chowder and half a Golf Club Crabsino sandwich (crabmeat salad, made with huge, delicious chunks of crabmeat, butter, lettuce, and bacon on wheat toast). Do I say this was the best lunch I have ever had? It was certainly one of them. I had dinner in the main dining room, Colt & Alison. I took the server’s suggestions and

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was delighted. The appetizer was delicious and light, although I forget what it was (I was mesmerized and enjoying my dinner companion, and now I can’t find my notation). The entrée of filet was extraordinarily tasty, although the portion was a tiny bit too large for me to finish completely. Creamed spinach and creamed potatoes were the accompaniments. I have to relate the dessert “scene.” A very light dessert was the request. Shortly, a Lucite rack holding six small ice-cream cones filled with ice cream and sorbet was placed on the table. Is this not creatively perfect? It was a hard decision as to who took which one, but divvying the tiny delights was fun, delicious, and the perfect way to end a sumptuous meal. Shopping If you feel so inclined, the Cloister has specialty shops such as Ralph Lauren, Peter Millar’s Sea Island Lifestyles, Vera Wang, and The TIBI Collection for Sea Island. There are also the usual golf, tennis, and surf shops. You can go down to the village for more general shopping. In spite of its magnificence, the Cloister is extremely family oriented. To quote Chairman and CEO Bill Jones III, “We continue to treasure the timeless classics long associated with Sea Island—manners and family and attention to the finest details . . . a love of the sporting life.” Sea Island is very special. With the bankruptcy agendas in place, it is stated that the employees will keep their jobs, and Bill Jones III will remain as chairman and CEO. Here’s to rapid remedies and solutions. Optimism is guarded. Faith is strong and remains.

Jekyll Island

Jekyll Island Club P.O. Box 13186 877-453-5955 www.jekyllisland.com

Jekyll Island is the southernmost of the Golden Isles. This wonderful island was originally a casual winter getaway. The men had created an ideal hunting club. Soon after the turn of the century, Jekyll Island

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became the private retreat of not only prominent people but also many leading tycoons of industry. A beautiful club had been built. In 1940, with World War II and all the challenges and needs of that cause, as well as the questionable safety of the U.S. coast, the club closed. In 1947 the island was sold to the state of Georgia, which at first seemed not to know what to do with it and the white elephant of a building that had been the Jekyll Island Club. In 1951 a convicts’ camp was established on the island. The camp’s inhabitants worked on the property, refurbished the buildings, built drainage canals, and cleared lands. Before long, it was ready. The Jekyll Island Club Hotel reopened, this time to the public, and the island soon attracted other hotels and businesses as well. The white elephant was no more.

Jekyll Island Club Hotel 371 Riverview Dr. www.jekyllclub.com

The Jekyll Island Club Hotel is unique. There is no denying that it has tremendous history, old-world credentials, and wonderful “bones”; nor can it be denied that attentions to the property were in order when I visited. I have learned that in 2008, renovations began, and a lot of attention and many dollars have now gone into the property since I stayed there. This obviously had to be done if the establishment is to compete in today’s market. My visit—although I went several years ago, before the renovations—was enjoyable. My room decor was adequate—nothing fancy or bright. The bathroom needed a bit of attention and had those dreadful horseshoe seats. Regardless, I did enjoy the accommodations. Dining There are many dining options. The attractive Grand Dining Room is more formal, and here one enjoys gourmet meals with Victorian ambiance, candlelight, and music. The Courtyard at Crane’s is more casual. This beautiful home was originally owned by Richard T. Crane and evokes a not-so-casual lifestyle. One can choose to dine inside or outside. Café Solterra is the most casual and features pastries, fruit, cold cereal, and fresh coffee. There is also the Poolside Bar and Grill.

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There is a lot to do on Jeykll Island, such as touring the historic district and Jeykll Wharf and exploring the Intracoastal Waterway, vast marshlands, and gardens. Of course, there is also golf, tennis, swimming, horseback riding, fishing, kayaking, canoeing, and bicycling. Check the many extra happenings (i.e., the Cooking School). There is something special about being on an island. There are many pluses here at Jeykll, and you will enjoy.

SAVANNAH On his infamous march to the sea, General William Tecumseh Sherman thought this oldest city in Georgia so beautiful that he spared it from pillage. My first visit to Savannah was rather damp, since it rained buckets all day. Still, the charm of the area was unquestionable. The big houses, filled with antiques and crystal chandeliers, oozed etiquette and refinement and had probably seen a few clandestine shenanigans. The trees, cobblestone and brick sidewalks, park squares, cemeteries, and hanging moss all contributed to this city’s very southern ambiance. Driving Diva Alert: Do not grab or take home any hanging moss. It’s likely to be full of bugs. For a moss souvenir, you can purchase a bag of treated moss instead.

Eliza Thompson House 5 W. Jones St. 912-236-3620 or 800-348-9378 www.elizathompsonhouse.com

Built in 1847 on a lovely tree-lined street, Eliza Thompson House is an attractive and very well-run bed-and-breakfast. I enjoyed a delightful stay. Upon entering you feel as though you were stepping back in time, and in a most elegant fashion. The rooms are charming, with period decor, and the bathrooms have all the amenities. Mine was narrow and small but fine.

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234 | Romancing the Roads Sinus Note: There are no down quilts to affect your sinuses.

Wine and hors d’oeuvres are served in the afternoon in the living room, which is the hub of the house. The hot and cold hors d’oeuvres were delicious, and the wine was clearly not any old plonk from a jug. Later at night, a delicious dessert and coffee are served. A delightful and delicious breakfast is served in the garden. The exceptional staff is very friendly. Kevin, an architecture student who worked at this wonderful bed-and-breakfast when I was there, should be cloned.

Driving Diva Alert: Parking in Savannah (often) alternates from one side of the street to the other, and the signs are very hard to understand at first glance. Carefully note when it says a.m. and p.m., and remember that one second after midnight is a.m.

Mercer Williams House Museum 429 Bull St. 912-236-6352 www.mercerhouse.com

Originally built in 1860 for General Hugh Mercer (great-grandfather of songwriter Johnny Mercer), this house was made famous by the movie Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. The construction of the house from Philadelphia Reds, rose-colored bricks, was interrupted by the Civil War, then completed after the war by the new owner, John Wilder. In 1969, Jim Williams purchased the house (which had been vacant for ten years) and immediately began a two-year restoration. The Mercer Williams House Museum has only recently opened to the public. You can tour the garden and several very impressive first-floor rooms and hallways, as well as view the fantastic staircase and stained glass skylight. The garden is built on two levels of Savannah grey brick, with slate walkways and various plantings.

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Behind the main house is the Carriage Shop, which sells such wonderful items as Bird Girl statues, raw Tupelo honey, gourmet benne wafers, Johnny Mercer CDs, and books about Savannah.

Mansion on Forsyth Park 700 Drayton St. 912-238-5158 www.mansiononforsythpark.com

This can be a bit hard to find. I must say that my first impression, based on a quick walk-through, had been that it was slightly over the top in decor for Savannah. The next time I visited Savannah, I booked a room at the mansion, and my tune absolutely and emphatically changed. I found it a breath of bright, fresh air. When you first walk in, you are greeted right away by the concierge. Directly in front of you is the Marble Garden Courtyard and outdoor pool with waterfall, which pleasantly masks outside noises. The public rooms display over four hundred works of art by locally and internationally renowned artists. A favorite of mine is the portrait gallery. In the midst of the row of portraits is a framed mirror. Your portrait becomes a part of the line of portraits! So original! A huge glass case also houses a display of vintage hats. So creative! The mansion has 126 oversized rooms. Mine was very attractive and well appointed in a modern (but not too modern) style. The king-sized bed with glossy, white carved headboard had a brilliant, white, extra-thick duvet. I was immediately attracted to the mirrored chests with large, clear glass lamps on either side of the bed. At the far end of the room were a high-backed velvet sofa and large writing desk. The drapery treatment was excellent—the kind you wanted to emulate. The large and attractive bathroom was almost perfect. I adored the green fabric that hung under the sink area, just long enough to hide the pipes. The mirrors were excellent, as was the lighting. The large sauna tub had a trendy window with folding screen—opened you can see into the other room. The shower and toilet (no horseshoe seat, thank goodness!) were enclosed separately in wavy, opaque glass. It was not totally opaque, however; you could see out as well as in, so real privacy was (a tiny bit) elusive. The other flaw was the lack of hooks to hang your towels on.

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Interestingly, when the bellman showed me the room’s appointments, he made a point of demonstrating the “sensitivity” of the minibar. If you even touch an item, it might be automatically charged to your room. I must have breathed on a little bottle of chardonnay, because it ended up on my bill—although the charge was promptly removed with apologies. The hotel’s 700 Drayton Restaurant (912-721-5002) is attractive and well run. The specialties are many. I tried the local crab cake, which had its own fantastic texture and flavor. I asked if it had been slightly “treated,” but I was told no, that was the nature of the native crab. It was served with a bourbon demi-glace on top of a small cornbread waffle. Delicious is an understatement. Casimir’s Lounge, the upstairs bar, is the place to go, and as I was to discover, it is known for the best signature drinks in Savannah. There was also live music when I was there, which added to the perfect ambiance. The Mansion on Forsyth Park is a member of the Kessler Collection, owned by Richard Kessler. I have stayed at a number of his properties and can attest that they are uniformly creative, excellent, and well run. Go and enjoy.

Bohemian Hotel 102 W. Bay St. 912-721-3800 or 888-213-4024 www.bohemianhotelsavannah.com

I mention this property because the enthusiasm has been ongoing, and it is a Kessler property. Located on the waterfront of the Savannah River, it has a beautiful view. The seventy-five rooms from pictures are Kessler fine-tuned, and at the restaurant, Rocks on the Roof (912-721-3901), not an unsavory morsel is to be had. The sister property, the Mansion on Forsyth Park, is within walking distance, and what you don’t find here, you will probably find there.

Shops in Savannah There are so many! The following two are of note.

YTT Antiques: Yesterday, Today & Tomorrow 1 W. Victory Dr. 912-232-3472

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This consignment shop specialist also carries discount fabrics and custom upholstery. If you are redoing, this is the place to look. Of course, it helps if you live nearby and have the needed measurements in hand.

Paris Market & Brocante 36 W. Broughton St. (corner of Market and Broughton streets) 912-232-1500 www.parismarket.com

You will find this charming shop in Savannah’s recently revived retail corridor. The categories of the shop’s contents are “Boudoir,” “Powder Room,” “Vintage,” “Garden,” “Dressing Room,” “Office,” and “Connoisseur.” Each title has a saying, but my favorite is for “Connoisseur”: “So what if I can’t cook? At least it looks pretty.” This delightful place has been featured in many upscale magazines. You will enjoy and be inspired to take home an idea or two from this luxury shopping destination. There are also several antique shops on Jones Street.

Other Savannah Dining Choices

Gryphon Tea Room 337 Bull St. 912-525-5880

For seventy years, this building housed A. A. Solomons & Co., a turnof-the-century pharmacy, which not only filled prescriptions but served ice cream and sweet treats. In 1982, the space was purchased by the Savannah College of Art and Design, which transformed and put it to many uses. In 1998, the tearoom was opened. You will see many of the original features: Tiffany-style lamps, glass, rich mahogany woods. The tearoom’s name derives from the gryphon clock and light globe and brackets, which were original to the pharmacy. There are at least twenty-four choices of tea and several tea treats. The prices are reasonable: a pot of tea costs $3.75; tea sandwiches, scones with cream and jam, assorted pastries and sweet delights, and your choice of tea cost $12 when I was there. (Prices may have increased since then.)

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Saigon 4 W. Broughton St. 912-232-5288

This delicious, clean, friendly, and sensibly priced establishment was enjoyable. Does anybody on this planet not know the name Paula Deen? Here in Savannah she received her first, shall we say, culinary applauses. She has two restaurants in the area:

The Lady and Sons 102 W. Congress St. 912-233-2600 www.ladyandsons.com

Uncle Bubba’s Oyster House 104 Bryan Woods Rd. 912-897-6101 www.unclebubbas.com

FYI: I have not been to any of Paula Deen’s restaurants, but here’s an important tip: if your party is larger than ten, you must call to confirm your reservation. If it is less than ten, you must go to the restaurant at Congress and Whitaker. A hostess begins taking names at 9:30 a.m. You must appear in person to receive your priority seating.

Paula Deen now has a retail store, which I hear has a little bit of everything Paula Deen. It all sounds like a must-visit to me.

Parker’s Gas Station 325 Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. 912-447-0023

Parker’s is the place to get gas, sandwiches, gourmet products, and fun kitchen items. Yes, I got gas, a sandwich, and some fun napkins with “make you smile sayings and pictures.” Great place!

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Georgia | 239 Important Note: You are on a one-way street going to Parker’s, and getting to one of the pumps can be a tiny bit tricky if you pass the initial entrance. If you do miss it, you must drive around the block—not a big deal, except that you feel like a bit of a dummy. Don’t start backing up like I did! I recommend parking your car on the street, either before or after you get gas, and enjoying Parker’s.

TYBEE ISLAND To get to Tybee Island, take I-95 to U.S. 16. Driving thorough Savannah was quick and after a few turns, I was on the Island Expressway and viewing the salt marshes that surround Tybee Island. Once there, I could hear myself thinking, What a quaint, pretty place! Getting directions to my destination, I was told to watch out for some key places: George’s, a restaurant with lighted trees out front, and across the road, Tango, also a restaurant, also with lighted trees.

George’s 1105 U.S. 80 912-786-9730

Tango 1105 U.S. 80 912-786-8264

I soon passed the post office, then Waves Beach Wear Surf & Gifts.

Waves Beach Wear Surf & Gifts 705 First St. 912-786-0084

After the Quik Stop, my next marker was the Sugar Shack, an icecream shop.

Sugar Shack 301 First St. 912-786-4482 www.tybeesugarshack.com

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I could tell that this island was a wonderful place that would soon be too, too popular and lose its originality. The beachfront is most attractive, and the beach homes are of a mixed variety. I don’t think one will find too many real estate bargains, but perhaps Tybee will remain natural and unfroufroued for a while.

Breakfast Club 1500 Butler Ave. 912-786-5984 www.tybeeisland.com/dining/brclub/Default.htm

At the “world-famous” Breakfast Club, established in 1976, I found myself indulging in all sorts of breakfast delights. Oh my goodness! From homemade sausage, to eggs Florentine, to steak and eggs, to omelets, to grits, to waffles—whatever breakfast you want you’ll find it here. It is an open kitchen, so you watch the chefs creating. I didn’t find a thing over $8.95 on the menu. What friendly and fast service! After breakfast, I recommend exercise. You probably will not want lunch or possibly even dinner, but oh! did you enjoy breakfast! The Breakfast Club is family owned and operated. The owner-chef, a graduate from the Culinary Institute of America, assisted with the catering at John F. Kennedy Jr.’s wedding. FYI: The smallest church in America is south of I-95, on Highway 17 at Exit 67. They advertise that they are the smallest, and I am certain the church fathers would not misrepresent. The church, built in 1950, measures ten by fifteen feet.

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FLORIDA: EAST COAST

-95 goes straight down the east coast of Florida, presenting you with a hit parade of fabulous places to visit along the way.

I

AMELIA ISLAND Just across the Florida border on I-95, take Exit 373 to reach Amelia Island, though the sign reads Yulee Beach and Fernandina Beach. Billboards will advertise Amelia Island. Just be aware. From the interstate, drive about fifteen minutes to the island via the Amelia Island Parkway. Turn right, then turn left, and just down Route A1A South is Amelia Island Plantation. Be forewarned: the signage is poor to confusing. There are roundabouts that cause you to wonder, and possibly even wander, but eventually you will find your way to the front of the hotel.

Amelia Island Plantation Resort 6800 First Coast Hwy. 904-261-6161 www.aipfl.com

Amelia Island Plantation is a place so gated that you have to get a pass and check in at the Reception Center. There is valet parking (about $15 241

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per night) or, if you prefer, self-parking is within walking distance. After you’ve checked in, a bellman takes you right to your room. The plantation’s lobby area is large and attractive—not glitzy or showy. There is a bar at the far end and many seating areas in the large space. When I visited a nor’easter had blown in, making it unusually cold, with the winds bringing the wind chill factor down to “too cold.” But the fireplace was ablaze, making the indoors very comfortable. Even in inclement weather, there’s a lot to do at the plantation. Options include renting a golf cart and exploring, or if you are the more athletic type, you can rent a Segway and tour the island. Walking, if it’s not raining too hard, is most interesting and healthy. Going to the Nature Center is another option. Amelia Island Plantation is known for its Silver Medal golf courses, comprising fifty-four championship holes. It also has an outstanding tennis program. Of course, there is the beautiful beach, as well as fishing, bicycling, the fitness room, yoga, and the spa to keep you occupied. And there is always shopping—a sport indeed. The rooms I saw were most attractive and sizeable, decorated with light, comfortable colors. My room was all of that, with a nice view. A little village of sorts has shops and restaurants, and nearby is the Spa at Amelia Island Plantation. I toured the spa and was impressed with what I saw—it’s indeed a “retreat from reality,” as its advertising claims. In addition to the usual manicures and pedicures, the spa offers “Watsu and You” and “Amelia’s Way to the Beach” treatments. There are several places to dine, both indoors and out, but this night I opted to stay in and try the Ocean Grill. I had a sampling of grilled prawns and pumpkin lobster ravioli with fennel and thyme, then a tiny slice of pork loin with apples. Oh my goodness! It was delicious to the max. Very cleverly, the children’s menu offers “Ants on a Log,” which consists of celery sticks with peanut butter and dried cherries. Is that not a treat? Also on the plate are snow peas and carrots, with the carrots cut up and bent to look like spiders. Marche Burette (904-491-4834) was a very relaxed, pleasant culinary experience. A deli, gourmet market, butcher shop, and culinary gadget and wine collection store all in one, it offers breakfast and lunch and takeout delights at reasonable prices.

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Florida: East Coast | 243 Driving Diva Factoid: Amelia Island has been designated a Green Lodging Resort and has CardioReady certification.

Fernandina Beach, an easy, short drive of about fifteen minutes from the plantation, is a should-visit. There, the old meets the new in Fernandina’s many shops and restaurants. The architectural style is Victorian, whether the building went up one hundred years ago or yesterday. In one of the little stores, I asked about other shopping areas and, of course, consignment shops. I was told about one that was full of furniture, and then I was told about Fifi’s.

Fifi’s Fine Resale Apparel 1853 S. Eighth St. 904-277-4430 www.fifisconsignment.com

Fifi’s is a treasure trove for all bargain shopaholics. In an hour I was seen walking out with a bag full of super finds. I had obtained my daughter-in-law’s birthday presents as well as two items for her mother-inlaw—me! This place is a must. Read about Fifi’s at other locations. Enjoy! As you will discover, Florida is a long—very long—state. Below are some places to stop and stretch.

JACKSONVILLE This beautiful city has improved itself greatly over the years. The city skyline at dawn and dusk is particularly striking, and Jacksonville has most attractive commercial areas. The riverfront area, Jacksonville Landing, is a marketplace mix of restaurants, shops, attractions, and other delights. This city has a lot going on. For the latest, check with the Chamber of Commerce, the newspapers, and, of course, the Internet. If you are a fan of popular music and are traveling through the Jacksonville area, turn to 90.9 FM on your radio dial. This is WKTZ, the radio station of Jones College, which is one of my very favorites as it airs few

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commercials and plays real music that you can sing and reminisce to or just flex your hip muscles or tap your fingers to. It’s a great station! After Jacksonville, I often get off I-95 at Exit 318 and head over to the St. Augustine Premium Outlets. There are lots and lots of stores. Heading south it is on your right. Across I-95 is the Belz Outlet. Also at this exit there are several restaurants, and it is a lodging mecca. I have stayed at the Hampton Inn, which I have found convenient and clean, particularly with the then manager. Now?

ST. AUGUSTINE: HISTORIC AREA Exit 318 also takes you to historic St. Augustine. Years ago, I took my sons to the area to see the Oldest Wooden School House.

Oldest Wooden School House 14 St. George St. 888-653-7245 www.oldestwoodenschoolhouse.com

Here, the guide told of the strict discipline in the schools. There was a mannequin standing in the corner. The boys remembered this for quite a while, especially when I had them stand in the corner. We also went to Ripley’s Believe It or Not! and the Fountain of Youth.

Ripley’s Believe It or Not! 19 San Marco Ave. 904-824-1606 http://staugustine.ripleys.com

The Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park 11 Magnolia Ave. 904-829-3168 www.fountainofyouthflorida.com

All are still there for today’s visitors. Henry Flagler developed this area, and now it is without a doubt a special destination resort. Thank you, Mr. Flagler.

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Carriage Way Bed & Breakfast 70 Cuna St. 800-908-9832 www.carriageway.com

Heading north, and with a day or two to spare, I decided to stay again in St. Augustine. This time I booked in at the Carriage Way. “A good addition for your book,” I was told. After a call and an e-mail confirmation, the very efficient Bill Johnson told me, “You’ll probably be in the Cottage as the main house is full. I will e-mail you the directions.” I was looking forward to my Carriage Way discovery. The directions were excellent, but be sure to follow them carefully. Remember that getting from one block to another in historic St. Augustine can require driving an extra block or two as streets go one way and then another way. Don’t get annoyed. I arrived at Carriage Way and was greeted by the ever-so-friendly Bill Johnson. Shortly thereafter, I met his sons, Larry and John. My room was in the Cottage, which has two guest rooms and a large living room where one can watch TV and dine on the large dining table. A kitchen has the basics and a refrigerator stocked with complementary soft drinks. My accommodations were cozy and very comfortable, which I was to enjoy thoroughly after a walk downtown. (See “St. Augustine Historic Area Discoveries” below.) The original Carriage Way building was constructed circa 1883. In 1984 it was restored and remodeled to fulfill dreams and be enjoyed by every visiting guest. Diane’s Cozy Cottage, named for Bill Johnson’s late wife, was opened three doors down from the main building in 1998. There are nine guest rooms in the main inn and two in the cottage. All rooms are furnished with Victorian-era antiques or reproductions—which means everything is in muted colors and exudes a quiet charm. Rates range from about $89 to $199 per night, which includes a fabulous breakfast (details follow), bicycles for touring, newspapers, beverages, and a special dessert treat in the afternoon. Also, to this list I add genuine hospitality and friendliness from the Johnsons. I had planned to leave the following morning—hopefully by about 9 a.m. Son Larry, who prepares breakfasts, found this out and told me that he would have breakfast ready a bit earlier than usual so that I could be

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on my way. Well, let me tell you, I didn’t leave until closer to 10 a.m. because the breakfast was fabulous and delicious, and the conversations with the guests were so enjoyable. Breakfast rates ten stars! The fruits were absolutely fresh, the breads arrived right out of the oven, and the potato casserole was spectacular. Obviously the Johnsons have been asked for these recipes as I was given recipe cards for potato casserole, lemon poppy seed cake, and Carriage Way white bread. Whether I can duplicate Larry’s expertise has yet to be determined. I am going to try. I recommend you too enjoy the unpretentious Carriage Way. You will be calmed and refreshed. Enjoy! Sad PS: Bill Johnson passed away in January 2011. His sons carry on.

Casa Monica Hotel 95 Cordova St. 800-664-6835 www.casamonica.com

This hotel is not really hard to find, but do get instructions, and don’t get frustrated if you have to go around a block or two as the entrance where you park your car and enter the hotel is a little hidden and difficult to see the first time you visit. There is another entrance from the street in case you find it first or have been sightseeing and are walking back to the hotel. From the minute you are on the property, you will have no question that you are at a well-run, friendly, attractive hotel. Parking your car is convenient, and the charge is sensible. Upon entering the lobby, you notice the subtle, sophisticated decor. Check-in at the large, semicircular, mahogany front desk is conducted by efficient and most pleasant staff. The elevator to the guest floors is around the corner, just a short distance from the desk. You must have your room key card to make the elevator “work.” Getting the key card to work can take a bit of fussing, but it ultimately will. Just opposite the check-in desk is the most pleasant lobby bar, the Cobalt Lounge. Past the bar is the dining room, 95 Cordova (904-8106810). The atmosphere, the food, and the servers have all been exemplary

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when I have dined there. My favorite place to sit is on the slightly secluded tufted banquet, where you can see all. This room at dinnertime can be noisy. Soft background music would help. The accommodations at this wonderful property are very pleasant and comfortable. I have never had a bad room. One time there was a room glitch, but it was corrected quickly, and apologies were profuse. Unnecessary but most gracious was the reduction in my bill. In one of my rooms, I thought more hooks in the bathroom would have been useful, and in my notes I list, “Tub/shower handle too high; sheets not crisp; lighting by bed could be improved.” This stated, I have a feeling that the ongoing upgrading at the Kessler properties, of which this is one, has probably attended to my observations. The general manager confirmed that a lot has been done. Richard Kessler strives for perfection mixed with art and attention to detail. He is a spectacular owner of fine properties. There is a pool to enjoy in a most attractive setting. Within the hotel there is Café Cordova (904-827-1888), where you can enjoy light fare, be it breakfast, lunch, or dinner. I always find this café most inviting and perfect at any time. Built in 1888, the gently gracious Casa Monica Hotel recreates an era of grandeur while putting its guests at ease. This gem has been awarded four diamonds by AAA—and deservedly so.

St. Augustine Historic Area Discoveries There is a lot to see and do in historic St. Augustine, such as the carriage rides, walks through the historic areas, and visits to museums and art galleries. This time I discovered the Rising Moon.

Rising Moon 58 Spanish St. 904-829-0070

Here you will find all sorts of items from around the world. This is, as the shop’s card says, “An Uplifting, Global Shopping Experience.” I also discovered Go Fish.

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Go Fish Clothing and Jewelry Co. 63 Hypolita St. 904-819-5900 www.gofishretail.com

Go Fish features items from all over the world, including many developing countries. Helping and serving others is a guiding principle. Check out the website for interesting details. Many if the items are very sensibly priced, and I purchased two. As I was leaving St. Augustine, I made another discovery:

Old Drug Store 31 Orange St. 904-824-2269 www.tepee.com/drugstore.html

The Old Drug Store was registered in 1875, and data was deposited in the archives of the Smithsonian Institute. The Old Drug Store was acquired, and is still maintained, by the Harris family. You’ll have fun visiting this “emporium,” but I suggest being at The Café, which is in the Old Drug Store, for breakfast or lunch. I drooled as their burgers were described: half a pound of Black Angus beef, with or without trimmings. Two of their menu quotes I share: “If it looks like a cow, walks like a cow, talks like a cow, it probably needs a little more time on the grill,” and “If we’re not willing to settle for junk living, we certainly shouldn’t settle for junk food.” I look forward to lunch at The Café. Leaving St. Augustine, if time allows, you might want to take A1A South, then U.S. 1 for a short time, just to see the surrounding area and what used to be the road south. (Ladies, from what I saw, I would not recommend driving this at night and definitely not if you are alone.) This road takes you through some parts of Florida that you probably won’t see featured in the glossy brochures. I nostalgically recall many trips taken with my parents along this route. Little did I or my parents realize that I would be traveling it today, commenting and reflecting. This route is a shortcut to the interstate. Obtain directions. Heading south, many of the areas become less congested. Now, you begin to really realize how long the state of Florida is. You will get to where

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you’re going. Drive, stop occasionally, and just enjoy. Just don’t think how long it is until you reach your destination.

PALM COAST I had no idea that this most attractive enclave existed. Off of I-95 you drive along a very well-organized business area with a grocery store, drugstore, dry cleaner, and such. The shops are set in a designated area and not randomly sprinkled along the main thoroughfare. More places should see how nice this arrangement is for residents and visitors alike. There are lots of places to visit. The shopping village has a Beall’s Outlet, decorating shops, and more. Take the Palm Coast Parkway east over the bridge to the Hammock Beach Resort and surroundings. There is a $2 toll going to, but not leaving, the island. Get specific directions as there are several places with similar names, and deciding where to turn can be confusing.

Hammock Beach Resort 200 Ocean Crest Dr. 386-246-5500 www.hammockbeach.com

Hammock Beach is a big resort with all the amenities plus the ocean and a marina. The Lodge at Hammock Beach, with twenty guest rooms, is small but very large in ambiance and amenities. I recommend it as I had a perfect visit. Luxurious yet cozy, it is right on the Atlantic Ocean with stretching views of ocean beauty and sea air that fills your every breath. The rooms are beautifully appointed. The plantation shutters, dark woods, and uncluttered aura are pleasant; then add the Frette linens, twenty-ounce Egyptian cotton towels, special et ceteras, and the sounds of the ocean, and you realize you have without question found a small gem. One can also stay in one of the resort’s villas. A little unique and special touch at the lodge is that, instead of a sign reading, “Do Not Disturb,” you find in your room a metal shell on a small rope, which you hang on your door to signify the same. Perhaps because

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of its size, you feel personal attention to your visit and agenda. A walk on the beach, swim in the pool, or round on the magnificent golf course will not disappoint. FYI: Palm Coast is approximately sixty-one miles from Jacksonville, twenty-five miles from St. Augustine, and twenty-six miles from Daytona.

DAYTONA Daytona is a race-car mecca. Its popularity and development are largely due to the Daytona Race Speedway. If you are a race fan, this is your stopping place.

SPACE COAST The next area heading south along I-95 is called the Space Coast because of the Kennedy Space Center at Cape Canaveral. Before elaborating on the area, the following is a shared discovery as well as a personal happening, hopefully of interest.

Kennedy Space Center at Cape Canaveral Add this most unique place, just a short distance of I-95, to your list of the man-made wonders of the world. Words seem trite in describing this fantastic place. Its achievements are nothing short of man-made miracles.

Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex SR 405 321-449-4444 or 866-737-5235 www.kennedyspacecenter.com

You will be in awe of what you discover at the center. Admission is approximately $41 for adults and $31 for children. There is so much to

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see and do, and a day will easily be filled with the Kennedy Space Center experience, one you will never forget. Be sure to wear comfortable shoes and comfortable, cool attire. The many exhibits and sights bring the space world to you. In the Astronaut Encounter, you can meet with an astronaut, and there is an IMAX theater. Check schedules. The IMAX movie is an absolute must—fantastic and special. One can have lunch with an astronaut, but spaces are limited, so reserve early.

FYI: The food is very good and served in a very well-chosen buffet.

The Kennedy Space Center is a treasure. Get schedules. There might be lines, but the wait will be worth it. The staff is friendly and does try to keep the lines moving—but buses do not always get from stop to stop as fast as all would like. Aside from the standard tours, be sure to investigate the student programs if you have school-age children. After reading about them, I wanted to sign up, but I’m afraid I missed the launch agewise, as they are geared for those in grades two though twelve. This unique oasis is supported solely by its visitors. It is operated for NASA by Delaware North Companies Parks and Resorts. No tax dollars are used to fund the Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex facilities, staff, or operations. Aside from insisting that everyone should visit this complex, I am going to try to share my firsthand Space Center launch experience in the hope that it will give you a sense of being there. A Launch Experience It is almost surreal, awesome, and fantastic. It is all about the realization of the project, the excitement that covers you with goose bumps and the tears of pride you will have. You will experience this even if you are viewing the launch (as most do) from the highway or the beach. There was no way I was going to miss this opportunity. To be in the section reserved for the media for the launch was an honor and a fantastic experience. It would have been hard to get any closer to the launch pad unless

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you were part of the crew or the team. The launch was scheduled for July 1, 2006, but there was a nineteen-day window of opportunity because of the imponderables. If I had to endure several days of scrubbed launches, so be it. No disasters, please! As one of the spokesmen said about “scrubbing,” “The fact that we didn’t launch as scheduled won’t be remembered, but if we launch and it is hit by lightening, that will be remembered.” All was in order. I had been cleared and had the necessary pass. On Saturday, July 1, launch was scheduled for 3:29 p.m. I arrived by noon. My pass was checked and matched with two IDs, and there was a car check. I was cleared to enter. Car parked, I decided to explore. Looming near by was the Vehicle Assembly Building in which the orbiter is built. The building is a huge rectangular block with side flaps that open. It seems deceptively small. When told that each stripe of the American flag painted on the side is ten feet wide, you realize that the building is not large but huge. It was very hot, but there was an occasional, welcomed breeze. The media from all over the world were in place and ready to report. Across the water on the horizon you see it—the huge, orange external tank flanked by two solid rocket boosters with the orbiter. The orbiter lies piggyback on the external tank and the two boosters. It was the real thing, in spite of its surreal aura. At about 12:30, the Astrovan drove past within feet of where I stood. The van stopped, and three launch officials disembarked. The van’s windows were dark, but you knew that inside were the astronauts. There were cheers, and I signaled a thumbs-up. Privately I felt my eyes filling with tears, but the cheers quelled them. The van moved on, and I glanced at the large countdown clock, which registered several hours until launch. Out of sight, tightly choreographed events were taking place. The astronauts were now (probably) in the white area with the white-garbed team staff making final suit checks: “accessories”—clips, tubes, and so forth— are checked and tightened. Nothing is left to happenstance. Every miniscule part of a participating molecule is observed, attended to, checked, rechecked, and confirmed to be correct and perfect. Repeat: nothing is left to happenstance. Anticipation filled the air from everyone in attendance, even though their movements were, in truth, rather pseudorelaxed. The clock ticked on, yet the minutes seemed to drag. Whether you realized it or not, you

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constantly glanced at the sky. Clouds? Blue sky? You scanned the horizon. Before I knew it, the countdown had started. With less than fifteen minutes to launch, the mission was scrubbed. Weather was the factor. If there are storm clouds within a specified mile radius or anything looks iffy, the launch is cancelled. The next day, Sunday, the mission was again scrubbed. This time the announcement was made around noon. A piece of foam had cracked off and a few other considerations came into play. Monday would be used to check and recheck and repair, if necessary. The weather was still not perfect. There are so many unbelievable stats. Here are a few highlights: The shuttle system consists of orbiter, space shuttle main engines, external tank, and solid rocket booster. There are more than 2 million parts, 230 miles of wire, 1,060 plumbing valves and connections, about 500 circuit breakers, and more than 24,000 insulating tiles and thermal blankets. It is the most complex machine ever built. The orbiter is 122.17 feet long by 78.06 feet wide (wingspan). The Space Shuttle Main Engines “operate at greater temperature extremes than any mechanical system in common use today. The engine’s fuel, liquefied hydrogen, at −423 degrees, and the liquid oxygen are combined and combusted, the temperature in the main combustion chamber is 6,000 degrees. Each minute 64,000 gallons of fuel are consumed by the main engines. Although the shuttle weighs at launch more than 4,500,000 lbs it accelerates from zero to more than 17,500 miles per hour to attain Earth orbit in less than 9 minutes, breaking the sound barrier 52 seconds into flight.” (This info and so much more is from the Space Flight Notepad.) In the cargo bay, 28,120 pounds of equipment and supplies will be carried. There are video cameras placed in strategic places, giving everyone a glimpse of what is really happening. On TV an unbelievable coverage could be seen. In the white room, the astronauts get their final dressings before being strapped into the module/flight deck. As I watched, the astronauts were casual, smiling and seemingly joking with each other. Above all, they seemed relaxed! In fact, I believe I saw one astronaut taking a video of his teammates. The entire performance is mind-boggling! It is awesome. (That adjective is insufficient.) Waiting for the press conference with updates, when asked if he would go on the flight even if there were a problem, NASA astronaut David A.

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Wolf said without missing a beat, “In a heartbeat.” In talking about the launch, Wolf, as well as Deputy Program Manager John Shannon and External Tank Project Manager John Chapman, made what could have been total garble for the average person seem so very understandable. Thank you! Would the launch be on the Fourth of July? What a fabulous way to underscore Independence Day! Tuesday dawned. The weather was better. Updates were stating “go.” I was soon at my spot—an unobstructed view of the huge, surreal, magnificent, man-made contraption. If all continued as wished, shortly launch would take place, sending seven astronauts (two women and five men) into space at five miles per second! The destination was the space station where Thomas Reiter, a European Space Agency astronaut, would stay, establishing for the first time a three-person crew. The huge configuration that loomed on the horizon was ready for launch. Everything had been minutely scrutinized. The “arm” holding all in place and surrounding the structures resembled an advanced erector set. This arm was ready to move away. The clock ticked on. Everyone faced the launch pad. Silence, louder than ever, permeated the air. Rehearsals and simulations had taken place. Now it was the real thing. Silence. Hearts beat faster. Skins tensed. Everyone watched the clock. Minutes then seconds. Then, go! The thick, white clouds bellowed from the ignition, and a strong rumble filled the area. The space shuttle was launched. The two solid rocket boosters burned five tons of propellant per second. After about two minutes, at an altitude of about twenty-four miles, the boosters separated and descended by parachute into the ocean, where they were retrieved. In one of the interviews, it was said, “Space is so unforgiving.” I can only hope and pray that, for all teams, space is understood and managed. Good luck, and God speed. Everyone breathed a sigh. Some cried; others just walked, looking skyward. That huge looming “thing” was in the sky and out of sight. Your heart pounded. Consciously or subconsciously, I think, everyone said a prayer and was humbly proud. I think if “God Bless America” had been played over the loudspeakers at launch, there would not have been a dry eye. We cannot let this program falter. We have to back and support every molecule of the program and then some. What if Queen Isabella hadn’t

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supported Columbus? The Kennedy Space Center is a place that should be visited and admired. It is real and unbelievable.

BREVARD COUNTY This special area, also called the Space Coast because it encompasses Cape Canaveral, is rapidly being discovered. I-95 is the main thoroughfare on the mainland. If you look at a map, you will see, heading north to south, Titusville, Port St. John, Cocoa, Rockledge, Viera, Suntree, West Melbourne, Melbourne, Palm Bay, Malabar, Grant, and Sebastian Inlet. This mainland area is separated by the Indian River. There are several causeways over the Indian River to Merritt Island and then from Merritt Island over the Banana River to A1A, which parallels I-95 and the Atlantic Ocean. What an area! Cape Canaveral, Cocoa Beach, Patrick Air Force Base, Satellite Beach, Indian Harbor Beach, Indiatlantic, and Melbourne Beach are all on the A1A and west—varying in breadth at various points.

MERRITT ISLAND The Kennedy Space Center is at the north of this island. Driving out of the space center and heading south, you find yourself in a mix of commercial as well as residential areas, which is more the original style of the region. This is changing, however. Merritt Island has a very upscale residential area. Going to and from the Kennedy Space Center I took the Courtenay Parkway, which runs parallel to I-95. A short distance from Cape Canaveral, there is a commercial area with a little bit of everything.

Molly Mutt 1 Thrift Shop 2525 N. Courtenay Pkwy. 321-459-1525 www.crittersavers.com

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Proceeds support homeless animals. This chockablock full shop is worth a look and a search. I found a small designer scarf next to a stack of “somethings.” There is a Molly Mutt II in Melbourne, and both are under the auspices of Central Brevard Humane Society in Cocoa, Florida. Hours: Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Along the way there is a Dollar Tree, Tuesday Morning, Home Depot, and more and more. FYI: While in this area, seeing and discovering Cocoa Village might just be a detour you should take and enjoy. This artsy, funky, colorful, delightful “village” is full of history, eclectic shops and restaurants, and all those good things. It is six miles southwest of Cape Canaveral.

Courtenay Parkway Traveling on the Courtenay is interesting as it is a mix of places and goes “through” Merritt Island. When you get to its more southern parts, you are in an upscale area. The homes are mostly B&B—beautiful and big. Merritt Island is not wide, and many of the homes have the luxury of being on either the Banana River or Indian River. Courtenay bisects the 520 Causeway, which runs east to west. On 520, going east you, will see everything from Walgreens to CVS to TJ Maxx, and then you will arrive at the A1A. My landmark is Ron Jon’s. Yes, this is the Ron Jon you see advertised billboard after billboard as you travel I-95.

Ron Jon’s 4151 N. Atlantic Ave. (A1A), Cocoa Beach 321-799-8820 www.ronjonsurfshop.com

Even if you are not a surfer, visit this very unique and colorful store. Ron Jon’s is a one-of-a-kind surfing shop. The story of its inception is my type of story so I share it with you: “It was 1959 and on the New Jersey shore a bright young man named Ron DiMenna was just discovering the sport of surfing with fiberglass surfboards. His pastime soon became his passion and homemade surfboards would no longer do. When his Father

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heard that Ron wanted his own custom surfboard from California, he suggested, ‘Buy three, sell two at a profit, then yours will be free.’ Dad was right and Ron Jon Surf Shop was born.” Checking more into Ron Jon on the Internet, I discovered that “the original” is in Long Beach, New Jersey, and now there are other stores in Cocoa Beach, Fort Lauderdale, Orlando, and Key West, as well as elsewhere. I guess son just says, repeatedly, “Thank you, Dad!” FYI: There are places of interest and variety as you drive south on A1A from Ron Jon’s. There will be shopping areas, many anchored by a Publix grocery store or a Beall’s Department Store. There will be fast fooders and essential shops (e.g., barbershops and the like).

Grind for Life 2370 S. Atlantic Ave., Cocoa Beach 321-868-3933

Seek and you might find in this very full thrift shop. I have found some upscale slacks and a very good decorative item or two. The funds go to help people with cancer. Buy something!

Taco City 2955 S. Atlantic Ave., Cocoa Beach 321-784-1475 www.tacocity2.com

This is a beachy, delicious, inexpensive place to enjoy burritos, tostadas, quesadillas, appetizers, sides, and drinks. There is a sensible children’s menu. Look at the colorful website.

PATRICK AIR FORCE BASE This area of Brevard County is delightful. Its potentials are obvious, and its growth is unquestionable. With Patrick Air Force Base (AFB) firmly ensconced and with all of its ramifications, their presence is welcomed.

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Going south on A1A, you will see Patrick AFB, home to the Forty-Fifth Space Wing of the Air Force Space Command. The base was named after Maj. Gen. Mason M. Patrick, chief of the Army Air Station and chief of the Army Air Corp. Patrick AFB is the headquarters for military space launches and large missile tests on the East Coast. It has tracking stations and launch sites that reach from Patrick AFB to the Indian Ocean—ten thousand miles. There are five tracking stations in Florida, an air force air station 1,250 miles away on the island of Antigua, and one on Ascension Island, 5,000 miles away. Knowing what it does and represents, I am always impressed when I go by the base. What an area to be stationed!

SATELLITE BEACH (INCLUDING INDIAN HARBOUR BEACH) This true beach colony and area is, for the moment, fairly untouched. The ocean is the big attraction, of course. There ain’t nothin’ like the ocean, no matter what the surroundings. Yes, there are impressive condominiums, but they are not overly packed together. I hope that the town’s fathers instill growth parameters, building codes, and style. It will take work, but it will be worth it. The beach road is A1A. There are small malls with Publix grocery stores, Beall’s Department Stores or Outlets, Family Dollars, and other such shops. You really do not have to go very far for regular shopping.

We Care Thrift Store 1118 Highway A1A 321-777-0820

Owner Leslie told me, “100 percent of my profits are donated to charity.” Both of her parents and her aunt died of cancer, and one of her best friends is a survivor. There are many charities, but Leslie’s chosen ones are the H. Less Moffitt Cancer Center and Research Institute in Tampa and the Cancer Care Foundation in Melbourne. Go to this tiny store, hunt and pick, and buy something. The prices are very reasonable, and you too will be truly helping.

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Thrift for Life 946 Pinetree Dr., Indian Harbour Beach 321-720-7252 www.grindforlife.org

This is “a nonprofit thrift store helping people with cancer.” This little shop is an eclectic mix, but if you look carefully, you will find some “upscalers.” I was very pleased with the carved wall shelf I found.

Dining Beachy restaurants I have enjoyed include these:

Da Kine Diego’s Insane Burritos 1360 Highway A1A 321-779-8226

Here they state that you have bought “the finest burrito available on the market today.” I confess I am not a burrito authority, but I certainly enjoyed the food at Da Kine Diego’s, sitting outside in the most casual of atmospheres.

Long Doggers 1201 S. Patrick Dr. 321-773-5558 www.longdoggers.com

The beach boardwalk eatery calls itself a radically relaxed grill and brew. I am certain if I had tried everything on the menu, I would ramble on and on. The menu selections are categorized as “First Session,” “Getting Tossed,” “Mr. Zogg’s Grill,” “Long Doggers Dogs,” “Burgers,” “Sandwiches,” “LD’s Dinners,” “Hang 10 ‘on the Side’,” “For the Grommets” (Kids). (Admittedly, I do not understand the “grommets” reference). Nothing is over $13.95! My favorites are the hot dogs, $1.95 to $4.95, regular to a foot long. The Reuben is on my list as well. Next time, I am going to try the High Life Hot Dog, which includes “everything a man could want on a dog: chili, bacon, cheese, onion and jalapenos on the side.” (Excuse me but they could state “man or woman” . . . smile!)

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Sun on the Beach 1753 Highway A1A 321-777-9483 www.sotbfl.com

This family restaurant, open for breakfast and lunch, is great. You will see an eclectic, interesting group of people anxious for their next delicious meal at Sun on the Beach. The servings are more than ample. If they were any larger, they’d need bigger plates. Go and enjoy this most popular place.

Miscellaneous Driving south on A1A, you will get to a major intersection. On your right is State Road 518, aka Eau Gallie. There is a shopping plaza with Walmart and many more shops. Here at this shopping plaza is also Class Act, a consignment shop very well run by owner Michelle Vitaliano. There is also a Dollar Tree. Take SR 518 past stores of interesting varieties and over the causeway; if you continue, you will arrive at I-95. Back on A1A, at the intersection you will head south. Continue, and on your right, you will see a sign for Holy Name Thrift Store.

Holy Name Thrift Store 3050 N. Highway A1A 321-779-9320

This large shop sells furniture, clothing of all styles and for all ages, as well as some very chic items. An annex of sorts should not be overlooked. This is quite a shop, so go and hunt. FYI: You can head south on A1A all the way to Key West. Wherever you are on A1A, you will find a hotel or motel and more. FYI: Eau Gallie goes from the ocean to A1A then to I-95. There is a lot on Eau Gallie! Between A1A and the east side of the Eau Gallie Causeway, you will find the following, among many other establishments:

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Green Turtle Market and the Grapevine Café 855 E. Eau Gallie Blvd. 321-773-2001 www.greenturtlemarket.com

The market is an upscale produce store, while the café serves gourmet fare.

Michelle’s Closet 724 E. Eau Gallie Blvd., Indian Harbor Beach 321-777-5123

This is a trendy consignment shop. There are also many other restaurants, a Publix (what a fabulous grocery chain!), a Beall’s Outlet and Beall’s Department Store, an Office Max, gas stations, banks, and such. Across the Eau Gallie Causeway (going west), you will see a singular, attractive yellow condominium. You are now in Melbourne. The library is on your right.

Squid Lips Restaurant 1477 Pineapple Ave., Melbourne 321-259-3101 www.squidlipsgrill.com

Located on your right, the pastel building, the smiles, and the joyous voices give you a clue this is a fun place, and as you will find out, it has delicious fare. You can dine inside or out on the beach by the Indian River or just sit and sip in one of the pastel-colored Adirondack chairs. There is music, and the atmosphere is delightful. Everyone at Squid Lips strives to serve the best in an efficient, upbeat fashion—and they accomplish that task. Just down the street, past the library and a block over (the post office is around the corner), I discovered St. Paul’s United Methodist Church Thrift Shop.

St. Paul’s United Methodist Church Thrift Shop 1598 Highland Ave., Melbourne 321-254-3290

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This real church thrift shop has all sorts of items, from the vintage to the modern and more. You’ll find a bargain or two or three, then look forward to returning. Back on Eau Gallie, you are now in the blossoming Art District. I feel positive in saying, “You ain’t seen nothing yet.” Several millions have been designated for the area. The following are a few of my finds:

Concepts on Highland Restaurant 1437 Highland Ave., Melbourne 321-610-7987

Concepts on Highland is situated in the old bank building on the corner. Every comment and review has been excellent, if not awesome. I am always delighted to dine here. The talented chef/owner and his wife are a perfect (hard-working) combo. Without hesitation I can state that I had one of the best crab cakes I have ever devoured. Everything is delicious and the ambiance delightful.

Elbow Creek: Garden and Gift 1482 Pineapple Ave., Melbourne 321-622-5726 www.elbowcreekgarden.com

You can quickly surmise that this is a special place just by looking at the colorful, tasteful, attractive structure that houses a wonderful collection of garden accessories, ideal gifts, and so much more. Owner Shelly McKinney has done a creative and masterful job with her new shop. Also available are a healthy and colorful selection of plants. Go and visit this special gem—it’s a definite mecca for gifts.

Miscellaneous Inputs about Surroundings What a thriving, growing area! I had no idea until I visited it. There is something for everyone and then some. Though this area is being discovered, for now the population is less than one hundred thousand. In no specific order I list some more of my discoveries—they are wonderful, special, and original.

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Cottage Rose 105 N. Riverside Dr., Indialantic 321-722-2626

This colorful little “cottage,” full of wonderful items, can become very addictive. The selection of clothes is large and of all varieties—high fashion, casual, sporty, dressy, and everything in between. Of course, there is a large selection of shoes and a whole lot of jewelry—chunky, delicate, colorful, and subdued. There is a fine and unique collection of household items, and sometimes you will find a beautiful set of dinner china, lamps, decorative items, and on and on. The prices are sensible. Just to walk around the “cottage” is very therapeutic and uplifting if you are experience a slump, and it is hard not to purchase a little item—or maybe items.

Old Time Pottery 1270 N. Wickham Rd., Melbourne (at Eau Gallie) 321-757-3600 www.oldtimepotery.com

If you have never walked though the doors of an Old Time Pottery, then all I can say is be prepared. Put on your comfortable shoes, have nourishment in your system, take a deep breath, and start. You cannot rush, so allow enough time—all day is fine. I suggest that you start all the way over, either on the left or right, and just go up and down each aisle, then decide what you are going to hone in on. Don’t be surprised if you suddenly decide to change your entire daily dining cutlery, plates, and glasses. You won’t be alone. You might also pick up some bedding, a lamp, or a rug. Have fun. I hope that the bargains will still be bargains in this awful economy.

Furniture and More Thrift Store 2939 W. New Haven Ave., West Melbourne 321-242-3110

The proceeds from this large, clean thrift shop help women in desperate need. You will find all sorts of items, furniture, decorative arts, clothing, and more.

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Consign and Design Interiors and Home Furnishing 225 King St., Cocoa 321-504-4133 www.consignanddesign.biz

This establishment carries a large collection of attractive furniture, accessories, and bric-a-brac.

Yellow Dog Café 905 U.S. Highway 1, Malabar 321-956-3334 www.yellowdogcafe.com

This very nice café is just right in ambiance, as well as delicious in fare, and has a spectacular view of the Indian River. It doesn’t look fancy from the outside, but appearances can definitely be deceiving—especially in beach communities. The line of parked cars on both sides of the café reveal that something is going on inside. Indeed, there are three inside dining areas and an outdoor covered porch, in all of which you can enjoy a delicious gourmet meal. My son and daughter-in-law told me about this café, and I dined there with a friend. Lunch prices range from $11 to $16. Dinner prices range from $22 to $39. Both menus are created daily to offer the best, be it in fish or meat. The selections are many and excellent, and the portions and presentations are perfect. As the owners state, “Comfort Food with a Flair.” Yellow Dog Café is closed on Mondays, and reservations are suggested.

PALM BAY I find Exit 70 in Palm Bay to be an excellent stopping point on the seemingly endless Florida drive. There are lots of stores of all varieties, plenty of fast-food places, and gas stations. FYI: Satellite Beach to Fort Pierce takes about one hour plus. Just before the Fort Pierce Exit are the Outlets at Vero Beach. There will be plenty of signs telling you where to exit.

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Outlets at Vero Beach 1824 Ninety-Fourth Dr., Vero Beach 772-770-0697 www.verobeachoutlets.com

Rather than describe this “outlet oasis,” I will quote from its website: Visit the Outlets at Vero Beach, the fashion retail resort of shopping, where every guest is a celebrity and where fashion inspires life. Immerse yourself in an atmosphere of chic elegance and lively expectation, where more than 65 premier fashion and high value retailers engage imagination and inspire expression of personal style. Focus on the fabulous, the fashionable, and the fun as you explore the latest styles and entertain your dreams. Whatever you are looking for, from the spirited to the sublime, from the casual to the convincing or from the inspiring to the evocative, The Outlets at Vero Beach embrace the spectrum of fashion nuance in an atmosphere of sophisticated fun with acclaimed designers and retailers.

This quote gives you an idea of what the Outlets at Vero Beach purports to be. Stop here, stretch, walk, and have a look-see. You will enjoy. I found some great books at the Borders Outlet. The Subway (772-794-3411) here is the perfect place to stop, snack or eat, and rest. I find this one of the largest, cleanest, and best of this chain—but they all are good. This one is just a little bigger and has coffee.

VERO BEACH I know of only a few places firsthand in Vero, although I seriously considered moving there years ago (over thirty-five!), when my boys were just starting school. From everything I have seen and experienced, it is very pleasant and accessible, upscale and attractive. Disney’s Vero Beach Resort is typical Disney—friendly, clean, and well organized—and I enjoyed a nice breakfast there.

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Disney’s Vero Beach Resort 9250 Island Grove Terrace 407-939-7828

Vero was home to spring training for several major-league baseball teams, one of which, the Los Angeles Dodgers, occupied a complex known as Dodgertown. The Vero Beach Dodgers, a Class A farm team, played all summer long at Holman Stadium. Sadly for Dodger enthusiasts, if you want to see the Dodgers in training, you now have to go to Arizona. There is a lot going on in Vero. One of the considerations, if time permits, is to visit the Vero Beach Museum of Art (as I say wherever there is a museum to see).

Vero Beach Museum of Art 3001 Riverside Park Dr. 772-231-0707

This museum has excellent exhibitions and lectures. The Okeechobee Exit in Fort Pierce, between I-95 and the Florida Turnpike, offers a large mix of fast-food restaurants and gas stations. On the way to the turnpike is a very good place to stop:

Boudrias Groves 8101 Okeechobee Rd. 772-465-2575 or 800-226-2575 www.boudriasgroves.com

I suggest stopping and getting bags of grapefruits and oranges. Boudrias Groves also has a selection of jellies, local produce, and miscellaneous Florida souvenirs. You can enjoy a free sample of one of the fruits. Gas is available here, and there is a clean restroom. The personnel are all very friendly. Pick up the catalogue for easy holiday shopping. Serious, Could-Have-Been-Worse, Hit-and-Run Incident: It was toward the end of the afternoon, and I was driving to Jacksonville to see my younger son. As I turned off the Florida Turnpike and was making a lefthand turn into Boudrias Groves, a car filled with (as it turned out “visiting”) farmworkers ran the light and hit me full force on the driver’s side of my station

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Florida: East Coast | 267 wagon. I remember spinning and seeing the front bumper bounce ahead. I turned into Boudrias Groves, the police arrived, and the car behind me (driven by a young couple) chased the offending car, got its license plate, and returned to give the info to the state trooper. I always wanted to send the couple a thank you gift, but they insisted no. The speeding car was unregistered and from out of town. So be it. I was lucky, and it is hard to fathom, but the car’s lights worked, and with a lot of duct tape, I made it to Jacksonville—again, thanking God over and over.

At Fort Pierce, you can leave I-95 and take the Florida Turnpike south or north. Tip: If you are going to the Palm Beach area, stay on I-95. If you are going south to Miami and further, take the Florida Turnpike, which is usually faster. Yes, there are lots of tolls. There are gas stations with food courts, and the facilities are clean. Beware, as there are police cars aplenty.

The Palm Beaches are easy to get to via either the Florida Turnpike or I-95.

WEST PALM BEACH The main thoroughfare in West Palm is Okeechobee Boulevard, accessible directly off the Florida Turnpike. Okeechobee is full of chain stores, boutiques, car dealers, fast-food places, and the like. From the turnpike, you will be heading east as you gaze at the plethora of shopping areas. West Palm Beach has exceptional homes and condominiums. Almost to Palm Beach is City Place, a unique shopping mecca.

City Place 700 S. Rosemary Ave. 561-820-0074 www.cityplace.com

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City Place is, as its motto states, “Unlike Any Place.” Upscale and very attractive, City Place actually consists of over seventy individual shops and restaurants arranged to create a small-town atmosphere. Every store imaginable is there, and the presentations are most attractive. As we all know, it is not what you do, but how you do it, and City Place does it well. The movie house resembles the Paris Opera House. The Harriet Himmel Theater for the performing arts is in a historic church. A trolley goes through City Place to the Clematis Street District. There is easy access to both areas. As stories relate, West Palm Beach was originally the service area for the staff of the early (ultra) population of the island of Palm Beach. Now, it is anything but. It is its own place with its own claims to fame. Indeed, it is special.

Clematis Street: Downtown West Palm Beach To quote Donald Trump in People magazine, “Clematis is the hottest street in Florida.” The Clematis Street District has wonderful shops and great eating places, including Sloan’s Ice Cream Parlor.

Sloan’s Ice Cream Parlor 112 Clematis St. 516-833-3335 www.sloansonline.com

Beware! The restroom holds a surprise for you and an embarrassing (for you) laugh from the other clients, if you forget to lock the door. Lock the door! As much as you should visit the Clematis Street District, be aware that you must stay in the center of the area as the fringe streets are not inviting; in fact, they are dicey. Perhaps this has changed from when I was there. You can never be too careful. Parking is convenient and many of the shops will validate parking tickets, making parking free.

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It is helpful, if not imperative, to check the newspapers and with friends to see what might be happening at one of the cultural venues. There are a lot of performing arts in West Palm Beach. Don’t miss out.

PALM BEACH I feel that “the” should preface the name. Only a handful of places in the world bear any resemblance to the island of Palm Beach, which has some of “the finest” in many categories. Almost every breathing creature on this island does not mind going for the ultra of whatever is deemed appropriate at the time. Luxury is a given. Indulging in the most upscale in life, be it one’s dwelling, fashion, decor, dining, or living—here it is all routine. Approximately two miles wide by twelve miles long, Palm Beach was discovered and developed by Henry Flagler, a creative baron of industry with unquestionable determination and farsightedness. He saw what this remote, wild, animal- and bug-infested strip of land could become. This entrepreneurial gentleman opened the entire east coast of Florida. With originality and perseverance, along with major wealth, Palm Beach groomed itself into ultraexceptional perfection, although in the past few years some of its fervent exclusivity has been diluted. Not only is everything manicured, but there is nothing that does not fit. Even the grocery store and post office blend in to the point of near invisibility. One feels safe in Palm Beach, and it is friendly. You many not immediately get a warm and fuzzy feeling, but do not let that hamper your experience. You are visiting a very close-knit community. It helps if you have a friend who is a native (as is true of a lot of places) who can show you around and introduce you. By all means, dress and act appropriately. You are in Palm Beach, and there is no question that Palm Beach is one of a kind. A look behind the tall hedges will reveal some of the most magnificent homes (maybe semimansions) on the East Coast. A few institutions are synonymous with this small barrier island. The three main ones are the Breakers, Worth Avenue, and the Flagler Museum. Others, such as the Brazilian Court, the Chesterfield, the

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Colony, and the Omphoy, also are impressive establishments on this impressive island.

Places to Stay

The Breakers 1 S. County Rd. 561-655-6611 www.thebreakers.com

Located on South County Road, this magnificent edifice overlooks the Atlantic Ocean. It looms from many different vantage points, but none will disappoint. From the second you turn down the long driveway, you feel privileged. This masterpiece has never lapsed in achieving its goal of perfection since the first brick was laid in circa 1925. Read its impressive history. The Breakers has expanded its facilities with such style and grace that the only adjectives to apply are “awesome” and “perfect.” There are 560 guest rooms, including fifty-seven suites. The Flagler Club comprises the restricted sixth and seventh floors, where the concierge service is superb. Even if you are not staying on the property, there are other ways to have a Breakers experience. Dining at one of the on-site facilities is a delicious experience, but remember, you are at the Breakers, and prices are appropriate to the surroundings. My short review of what is termed “the Breakers Restaurant Collection” is as follows: • The Circle (888-273-2537): Overlooking the ocean, this circular dining room, open only for breakfast, is a favorite of mine. Magnificent, with its hand-painted ceiling, it oozes history. This beautiful room is, to me, just the perfect upscale venue to start the day. FYI: For years heavy curtains covered these windows, blocking the magnificent ocean views. Hard to believe! Now all is exposed in its true magnificence.

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• L’Escalier (561-659-8480): Rated one of South Florida’s finest dining experiences, this is the Breakers’s signature restaurant. The French cuisine is magnifique. In season, jackets are recommended, as are reservations. Other restaurants include the Beach Club, the Flagler Steakhouse (888-273-2537), the Seafood Bar, the Italian Restaurant, the Ocean Grill, and the Tapestry Bar (561-659-8488). Also just a few minutes from the hotel is Echo.

Echo 230A Sunrise Ave. 561-802-4222 www.echopalmbeach.com

Under the aegis of the Breakers in the heart of Palm Beach, Echo serves very upscale Asian cuisine. The latest addition is Top of the Point.

Top of the Point 777 S. Flagler Dr., Club Level 561-832-2424

This restaurant is a short distance away from the Breakers on top of Phillips Point. Complimentary shuttle service to both off-property restaurants—which I have not been to—is available for hotel guests. The sporting facilities include golf courses, tennis courts, croquet lawn, swimming pool, and the ocean. Other water sports are available. I have toured the acclaimed Spa at the Breakers but have not had one of its treatments. It is attractive, well equipped, and from all reports excellent. Of course, there is a salon, so that everyday can be a “good hair day.” Shopping is a sport of sorts, and on-site there are about ten shopping spots. Getting a cup of coffee in the Breakers News & Gourmet and sitting in one of the oversized, white-wicker rocking chairs on the porch— morning, afternoon, or evening—is a delightful escape from any concerns. I adore this shop, and you will see why when you visit.

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There are Breaker visiting rules. Find out what the rules are for visitors who are not staying on property. One can sign up for a tour. Also tour the beautiful gardens. Everything at the Breakers is gorgeous and pricey, but remember where you are and what it has taken to build and maintain this magnificent property.

Brazilian Court 301 Australian Ave. 561-655-7740 www.braziliancourt.com

The Brazilian Court has been a destination since it opened in 1926. Its always-impressive fame has fluctuated, but now it has reached a very prestigious status. Awards. Applause. Originally only a hotel, in 2004 it became a condominium hotel property. Without sacrificing any of its prestigious ambiance, it now provides a duel opportunity to its clientele. The formerly 103 guest rooms have been reduced to 80 rooms and suites. You can still luxuriate on property as a hotel guest. The difference is on paper: your accommodations are privately owned. Just think of it as a reordering of the semantics. If you did not know that you had reserved a privately owned accommodation, you would still think you were in a hotel room at this original landmark hotel. High-season rates are pricey, but you are at the Brazilian Court. (Special prices are available and should be investigated.) Courtyard Beautiful and serene, this courtyard is an absolutely wonderful place to sit, contemplate, and possibly enjoy a drink. It is also very romantic. You feel as if you are in a manicured tropical oasis—but not too manicured. The oversized outdoor loveseats with overstuffed white cushions and pillows are perfect. Considering that there was a lot of damage from the last hurricane, what has been done in a relatively short time at this special property is impressive. Beach Opportunities A complimentary Beach Jeep will take you to the beach only three blocks away, and complimentary transportation will also take you about

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five miles to the Brazilian Court Beach Club, with all the standard amenities. If staying at the property is not an option, another possibility is to enjoy a meal or dessert at the fabulous Café Boulud (561-655-6060) located at the end of the lobby. This wonderful restaurant is under the auspices of renowned chef Daniel Boulud. I can attest to his magnificent culinary creativity. Magnifique! Chef de cuisine Zach Bell was the cuisine maestro the recent evening I was at Café Boulud. I have enjoyed a lot of unbelievably prepared meals, but what Chef Bell does to pompano is magic. How he gets the thin, crisp top on the delicate fish is his secret, but it is a must to enjoy. Before I forget, do not indulge too much in the very tempting, delicious homemade bread choices, which are gently placed on the table soon after you sit down. You want to be able to savor everything possible. Everything is so superb. My dessert was a mix of decadent delights and a cup of delicious decaf demitasse. Prices are reasonably high, but you are enjoying Chef Boulud’s culinary masterpieces as well as Zach Bell’s extraordinary delights. The dining room is attractive and vibrant. Consider sitting in at the bar or just outside the dining room in the sitting area with sofas and small tables. I noticed several women comfortably enjoying themselves at the bar. Sitting outside, you can definitely people watch in a respectable manner as other guests walk by—with different expressions, attitudes, and strides, also glancing around as they stroll to the dining room.

FYI: I recommend the Lemon martini, a Mojito, or a Palm Beach Lemonade, either by the bar or in the courtyard.

Wonderful music begins around 9 p.m., and more often than not, dancing ensues. Jackets are preferred at Café Boulud. As of my last visit, there was a prix fixe, three-course menu for lunch (approximately $30), as well as an à la carte menu. The breakfast à la carte menu was reasonable. The breakfast buffet cost about $22. Sitting outside, overlooking the gardens with the fountain burbling gently, is a beautiful experience.

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Also available is the full-service Frédéric Fekkai Spa and Salon (561-833-9930). I have not had the time to be pampered here, but I would venture to say that your experience will be a pleasure. Accommodations In all fairness to this project, I have to tell you about my first visit and the accommodations. I think all this is very interesting, and I hope you do too. (Subsequent visits ensued.) First visit: Because the Brazilian Court is the Brazilian Court on Australian Avenue and was undergoing major renovations, I was delighted to find that I would be staying in one of the original rooms yet to be redone. I have true empathy for old and restored hotels and am always interested in their original and authentic state. Something about staying in an original room adds a special feel. Perhaps it is the anticipation that a ghost from years gone by might present itself or that the walls might talk; maybe it’s simply the comparison of then with now. This original suite was roomy, but it did not match my expectations for a hotel of such aplomb—but then decor, along with much else, was very different back when. The bathroom with shower was tiny and lacked any vanity space. I attribute this to the fact that when this bathroom was originally designed, women did not travel with as much makeup and the like as they do today. It was nice to stay in one of the originals, and although I did not sense a ghost, I enjoyed the old-world ambiance. I think that whenever a prominent historic property is undergoing major renovations, one of the original rooms should be kept for viewing or possibly reserving by hotel-history buffs. During a latter visit, I saw one of the new suites. They are attractive and spacious, but, as with everything, you always see how you would have done something differently. I would have chosen lighter colors since Palm Beach is tropical. Still, the attractiveness cannot be denied. There are many different decors in the various rooms. The last time I stayed at this impressive hotel, I had a cozy, wonderful room. I was told it was the smallest room on property. They can put my name on the door any time. It was near perfection. I adore the spaces of this historic hotel. The narrow hallways are now lined with historic photos. Everything seems to flow with the courtyard at

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the center. For this exercise, my scrutiny revealed the following tiny suggestions: The bedside lamps are too big and hard to reach to turn off. Perhaps impressive wall lamps on a movable arm would be more convenient. The desk chair could be smaller. A TV card designating channel numbers by the bed would be useful. (I did find a listing in the room book, but then you have to take the book to bed with you.) The bathroom is attractive. The tub has hydrothermo massage, and the shower is large—although the glass door needs a fitting adjustment. A magnifying mirror would be nice, and wall shelves by the vanity would be useful as there is little space on the vanity itself. Note: An iron and ironing board are available by request.

A lot is going on at the Brazilian Court. During my last visit, under the tutelage of then general manager Deborah Carr, the property had achieved upscale, beautiful, sophisticated, friendly credentials. This general manager knows the necessary formats and is one of the best. The attendants at the front desk were well trained. Also, credit must go to the owner’s wife, Leslie Schlesinger. I learned of this and more from John Loring of Tiffany & Co’s Palm Beach book, which is in the room. Visit the chic Brazilian Court. The upgrades from the original hotel are well done, but the old-world charm still permeates the property, and it is a very proper property.

Omphoy Ocean Resort 2842 S. Ocean Blvd. 561-540-6440 www.obadonhotels.com

This is truly a special place—the only beachfront boutique hotel in Palm Beach. What foresight the owners had when they bought this old property. At the south end of Ocean Boulevard, away from the throngs, the Omphoy is close enough that you know you are still in the Palm Beach. From the time you drive onto the property, you feel a special aura. The lobby and the hotel in general have a gentle, spare, slightly Oriental decor—nothing is glitzy. Everything is in place, which for a brand-new hotel

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is quite an accomplishment. This is not to say that a bit of fine tuning isn’t needed, but that is to be expected. My spacious room was calming, and the decor was not gaudy, just comfortable. I am so impressed when I see the implementation of a new aspect, and here is my latest. The sliding glass door out to the porch, when opened, turns off the air conditioner! I do not think I have seen this before, and I think this feature should be mandatory in all hotels in tropical areas. The bathroom was small but fine, although—I am repeating myself—more hooks are needed. Congrats, as there was no horseshoe toilet seat. Dining was super superb. The dining room is large, and the night I was there, it was full of very happy dinner guests. It is a Michelle Brenstein restaurant, where now young gourmet chef extraordinaire Lindsay Autry is the executive chef. I had samplings of her preparations, and all I can say is that she is a creative culinary genius. Each item was more delicious than the last. I truly ate very slowly, not wanting to finish quickly. The dessert was a lemon meringue cake. Everything was perfect and absolutely scrumptious. Lindsay Autry has a brilliant future. Breakfast was on the expansive porch out to the beach. What a special way to start the day. This outdoor dining area is absolutely lovely. Note: The Omphoy belongs to the owners of the Brazilian Court. Bringing general manager extraordinaire Deborah Carr to orchestrate, oversee the massive renovations, and such was wise. She has again done a superb job. Yes, there is more to do, but with her at the helm, all will succeed.

You might wonder what omphoy means. It translates to “spiritual gift,” a perfect name for this beautiful property.

The Chesterfield 363 Cocoanut Row 516-659-5800 www.chesterfieldpb.com

This petit palace with fifty-three rooms and suites is located in one of the most convenient areas of Palm Beach. Upon entering, you immediately see why it has been awarded four stars by Mobil and four diamonds by

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AAA. The cheerful and charming lobby instantly evokes quiet sophistication. There is a wonderful homey touch: a three-tiered “server” filled with homemade cookies. To the left of the lobby is the Library. What an oasis of paneled walls, hunting prints, and leather sofas and chairs. After dinner, a cigar or port can be enjoyed in the Churchill Cigar Room. There is the Leopard Lounge, and the time of day determines which of its “spots” is most prevalent and popular. It is definitely a popular spot, with live entertainment each evening. In the evening, beware, as there is plenty of pouncing from one venue to another at the Leopard Lounge, but all in the most elite, glamorous, albeit sometimes glittering of formats, and the ambiance is very alive. Tea or champagne is enjoyed in the afternoon. Prices for tea range depending whether you have “traditional,” “cream,” or “a spot of . . .” The selections for breakfast, lunch, and dinner are exceptionally sensible not only in presentation but in price as well. Visiting chefs often add their special touches to the gourmet fares for the lucky guests. The rooms are well-appointed gems. I did not stay in one, but viewing them, I saw their evident quality. There are wonderful overtones of fantasy, but not without an equal amount of sophistication and posh style. The attention to detail is obvious. At the reception desk, you sit (no standing at a counter), the rooms are filled with fresh flowers, the amenities are lavish, and the complimentary valet service is efficient. And if you want to get back in the ultra shopping world of Palm Beach, Worth Avenue is just two blocks away. If the more realistic world beckons, shopping and dining at City Place, as well as museums, theaters, and such, are all very close by. The Chesterfield is three blocks from the ocean, but in the rear of the property is a small swimming pool to enjoy. It is quite a little oasis. Lord Chesterfield said, “Anything worth doing is worth doing well,” and the Chesterfield Palm Beach, part of the Red Carnation Hotel Collection, has been succeeding in its unquestionable emphasis on service since 1872. Enjoy! You will feel elegant.

The Colony 155 Hammon Ave. 561-655-5430 www.thecolonypalmbeach.com

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From the outside as well as when you walk inside, it is obvious that this charming, bright, and friendly boutique hotel, a block or so from the beach, was built circa 1950. There are ninety accommodations ranging from guest rooms to suites, penthouse suites, and two-bedroom villas. The rooms in the hotel are a good size, with Frette linens, pillow mattresses, and European duvets. The hallways are small, which is expected in older hotels. I would recommend this pleasant boutique hotel. It is not ultra fancy, but it is abundant in “ness”: friendliness, upbeatness, freshness, and niceness. The villa accommodations across from the hotel are nice and private. I stayed in a villa. Parking was on the side of the villas, which I like. There is also a private pool for the villas. The villa accommodations are like an apartment with a complete kitchen, living room, two bedrooms, and two baths. There was a long hallway with an entire wall of built-in drawers and closets—for all your Florida clothes. Obviously, one could spend the season in residence in a villa. The furnishings were nice. Observations: Bedside lamps are tall, and as you start to doze, turning the light off is a stretch. A cord switch would solve this. So many hotels need this advice. As I lolled in the Jacuzzi tub, I tried to turn the bubbles on, but no matter what I pushed, nothing happened. The next morning, as I lolled again, I repeated my search but made no discovery. I decided that perhaps this Jacuzzi had not been completely activated. The vanity area was outside the tub and toilet area, an excellent privacy arrangement. As I brushed my teeth, I noticed next to the light switches and wall plug a knob stating, “Jacuzzi Instructions.” Apparently, one fills up the tub, turns on the Jacuzzi, and proceeds to the tub. This different format is probably a very safe feature. I confess, with all Jacuzzis, I do wonder sometimes about the safety of the installation, as well as the initial recycled water when you turn it on. Just a crazy thought. In December 2006, the new Duke of Windsor Penthouse was unveiled. The duke and duchess stayed in this refurbished suite during the winter of 1961. I have not seen it, but I have learned that you can stay there for $2,000 a night. For these royal pennies you will enjoy 1,910 square feet of regal space. There is an incredible (so I hear) amount of closet space, a fully stocked wine cooler (whether imbibing is gratis, I don’t know), and a balcony with Palm Beach views.

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Some say Polo Steaks & Seafood (561-655-5430) is the best restaurant in South Florida. An entertaining addition to the Colony is the Royal Room Supper Club. Throughout the season, guest stars perform at this dinner theater. The charge for the evening for dinner and entertainment is about $75 per person; without dinner, it’s about $45. The Royal Room has been called “the best cabaret venue in South Florida, if not the entire country.” The night I was there, the Four Freshman (not the originals, of course, but their successors) performed. They were good! They sang all the original Freshman songs—you know, the wonderful dancing and romancing type. After their performance, these young, very personable guys with lots of talent came offstage and talked with the audience. The meal at the dinner theater was good. Recently I saw the exceptional and talented Christine Ebersole perform. Fantastic! The dining area by the pool is most pleasant. Breakfast was enjoyable as I sipped my coffee, glancing over the top of my newspaper at the overtanned, not always svelte Homo sapiens (male and female) finding their perches for another day. (Shame on me, people watching and not studying the political spirals of the day in the morning paper!) Recently opened is Café 155 for breakfast and lunch and—oh! so sensible—box lunches. There are bicycles for guests to use as well as other sport activities. Ocean bathing is but a short distance away. The Colony is (also) very convenient to Worth Avenue. Walk around the corner and about a block over, and there you are—a place to indulge, learn, copy, and admire in one of the ultra shopping areas of the world. Obtain copies of Ruth’s Little Black Book and The Palm Beach Guide. Since my visit to the Colony, congratulations are in order. The hotel has received the Four Diamond Award from AAA!

Palm Beach Historic Inn 365 S. County Rd. 516-832-4009 www.palmbeachhistoricinn.com

This charming inn in the historic Town Hall Square District is a perfect, unpretentious place to stay. As the brochure states, “Romance . . . Relax . . . Rejuvenate.” That will be achieved easily at this delightful

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property—a bed-and-breakfast of special merit. The inn is within walking distance of Worth Avenue and restaurants and is across the street from the Church Mouse (see below). Your comfort is obviously of utmost concern. The room appointments are tasteful and comfortable. “Ostentatious” is not an adjective used here; “small” and “nice” are accurate. Attention to detail is prevalent. Each morning, a complimentary breakfast is served in your room. It is not hard to get used to the inn and its morning routine. I thoroughly enjoyed my stay. Rates are sensible, especially in the offseason. Note: One has to walk up one set of stairs to the guest rooms.

Attractions The island of Palm Beach is an attraction in its self.

Flagler Museum One Whitehall Way 561-655-2833 www.flaglermuseum.us

This former home of Mr. and Mrs. Henry Morrison Flagler is a true treasure. Henry Flagler, who developed Palm Beach, built Whitehall for his bride, Mary Keenan. As you tour, you take a step back in time to the Gilded Age. This impressive wedding present spans fifty-five thousand square feet and includes a wide range of exceptional decorative styles. There are fiftyfive restored rooms in the three-story edifice. This “home”—elaborate, extravagant, and exceptional—was built to rival the mansions of Newport, Rhode Island. It succeeded. Visit this classic revival, which has become a National Historic Landmark. There is an admission fee.

Green’s Pharmacy 151 N. County Rd. 516-832-0304

This could be listed below under “Restaurants,” but it is also an attraction. Fancy-schmancy Palm Beach has an unadulterated, genuine, unfancy

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corner pharmacy with a lunch counter! Here you will get the best, most sensibly priced meal deal in town. Either at the long Formica counter-bar with chrome swivel-top stools or at tables with matching chairs, you can have a really delicious meal. It is popular with the locals as well as me. I enjoy sitting at the soda fountain–lunch counter and having a BLT and a coke. On one visit, I was there at the end of lunch and spoke freely with the lunch staff. There was a nice chatter. There is something about sitting on a stool that you can swivel from side to side on. I think it brings out the child in us. The counter, open for breakfast and lunch, serves homemade soups, daily entrée specials, and excellent milk shakes. Breakfast costs $2 to $5. A lunch of sandwiches, burgers, soups, and salads costs from $3 to $6. Of course, there is the pharmacy with its aisles of general items. Hours: Monday through Saturday, 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Shopping Worth Avenue and Royal Poinciana Way Everything on the island is a delight for female shoppers, so long as you aren’t intimidated by the price tags for a $500 belt or a $1,000 dress. Sugar daddies have no problem buying a token “thank you” or a “convincer” at either one of these shopping meccas. How else would the rents get paid? For the majority of Homo sapiens, go and enjoy shopping with your eyes. As my mother used to say, “Go, look, and learn.” There are glamorous streets all over the world, but among the top is Palm Beach’s Worth Avenue. On your first walk down these exceptional blocks, it is not hard to be overwhelmed. You might even find it hard to comprehend. How can there be so much that is upscale, over the top, outside the box along these blocks. The finest, the most expensive, the most creative, the most ultra, the most exorbitant, the most extreme, the most chic, the most abundant—all that is here on Worth Avenue. Over two hundred shops selected to be on this avenue must comply with the many high standards set by the Worth Avenue Association. Their attention to detail and level of quality make and maintain Worth Avenue as a most special of avenues. All of the shops are my favorites, even if just for looking. The following are in Worth Avenue and the area.

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Johnnie Brown’s 347 Worth Ave. 561-659-3394

Johnnie Brown’s has closed. Its owner, Didi Shields, retired but unquestionably it was a most wonderful, special shop, and I include it because it was a sensible Worth Avenue feature. Trivia FYI: Johnnie Brown was the name of unique architect Addison Mizner’s pet monkey.

Mariko 329 Worth Ave. 561-655-5770 www.marikopalmbeach.com

What a gem of a shop! Mariko has the best and widest collection of costume jewelry I have ever seen—it is probably fair to say in the world. I originally found this shop on Madison Avenue in New York City, back in the 1960s. The selection of earrings, bracelets, brooches, rings, and necklaces is so fantastic and sensibly priced that you will find it hard to choose. The quality of the items is first-rate. Have fun and enjoy.

Church Mouse 378 S. County Rd. 561-659-2154 www.bbts.org/churchmouse.shtml

The resale shop of the Bethesda-by-the-Sea Episcopal Church is a treasure trove of castoffs of the well-to-do, featuring donated clothing, objets d’art, and various other items. It is so well run and organized, you feel as if you are in a major upscale department store’s boutique. It definitely helps to be a tiny size. Hours: Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Closed during the summer.

Goodwill Embassy Boutique 210 Sunset Ave. 561-832-8199

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This is not your typical Goodwill thrift shop. Its location sets it apart, and of course a mix of upscale and not-so-upscale items can be found there. It is open all year. In either of the above two Palm Beach shops, it is so much fun to find something that fits because it has probably been worn for less than fifteen minutes! Treasure hunts are always fun. Beware, as sometimes the items in Palm Beach’s resale and thrift shops are overpriced. Just remember where you are and what they probably originally cost. Have fun.

Tanya Pierce 219 Royal Poinciana Way #3 (in the middle of the block on Sunset Ave.) 561-659-6333

This is the place to look for gifts, collectibles, and estate items.

Attitudes 212 Sunset Ave. 561-832-1666 www.attitudesofpalmbeach.com

This upscale ladies’ fashion consignee and resale is also worth a look. Do not leave the island without taking a drive up and down and all along South County Road and Ocean Boulevard. The houses are very definitely impressive, and many enjoy beautiful ocean views. Henry Flagler certainly was onto a good thing when he decided to develop this little island.

Restaurants The restaurants are numerous, the menus superb, and the prices Palm Beach normal. Only once did I have a bad meal on the island. My escort wanted it to be a nice, special evening. I knew he would probably not be pleased if I sent something back at this place—so I didn’t. The list of restaurants is long, so I mention a few of my favorites below.

Renato’s 87 Via Mizner 561-655-9752 www.renatospalmbeach.com

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At this very romantic restaurant, my escort had reserved a perfect table, with a view of the garden, in this most charming of settings. I noticed the feeling of privacy, even though you are in a public restaurant. None of the waiters hovered over you, but somehow one was always at hand if needed. Of course, other restaurants have this quality; I just wish more did, so I mention it in case others are listening. I had the signature center-cut veal chop, which was delicious but almost too much for this female on this special evening. The vegetables were just right. My companion and I split a crisp, cool salad. Renato’s is open for lunch, and you might try the signature lobster salad. I hear nothing but rave reviews, be it for the pasta preparations, the yellowtail snapper, or any of the other selections.

Trevini Ristorante 150 Worth Ave. 561-833-3883 www.treviniristorante.com

My meal consisted of the lemon sole, which was perfect. I just remember that everything was excellent during this lunch of mixed business and pleasure.

Bici 313 Worth Ave. 561-835-1600

A Bici restaurant has never disappointed me since I first discovered this excellent restaurant in New York City in the 1980s. What more can I say other than that the establishment on Worth Avenue followed suit.

Michael R. McCarty’s 50 Cocoanut Row 516-659-1899 www.michaelrmccartyspalmbeach.com

Some places just have it—whether “it” is the atmosphere, the food, the people, the decor, or the staff. Michael R. McCarty’s has it all and then some. It is so Palm Beach, but not overly so. Named for its owner, whose restaurant credentials are exceptional, this is the place to be—whenever

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possible. You can sit outside on the terrace, which I recommend, inhale the atmosphere, and do a little people watching, as you enjoy your selections from a very delicious menu. I was alone but felt very comfortable. The young server was most attentive, but not overly so. The very senior couple sitting to my left was truly amusing. I wasn’t intentionally listening (promise!), but they both spoke in upper-schooling syllables so they could hear each other—and so could I. They reminisced, chatting about friends and acquaintances past and present and their lives’ happenings. It was charming to sort of be included. Lunch with a Bloody Mary was perfect. I walked around the indoors part of the restaurant, and again everything was just right. Do I recommend this place to see and be seen? I do, but not on that premise. I do so because the food is excellent and the ambiance delightful.

DELRAY BEACH Take the Exit 42 (Atlantic Avenue) off I-95 or Exit 81 off the Florida Turnpike. If, while you are driving into downtown Delray on Atlantic Avenue (the main avenue), a joyous smile doesn’t cross your face, then you had better turn around. This obviously eclectic, colorful, subtly upscale, nonshowy Florida space is immediately welcoming. Delray Beach, at the southern end of Palm Beach County, is approximately halfway between Palm Beach and Fort Lauderdale. During my initial drive down Atlantic Avenue, I instantly wanted to park the car and discover—because you quickly see that there is a lot to discover. Do what is best for you, but know there is a lot to this place called Delray. Pace yourself, and be selective. Don’t go into every shop just to see—it will use up a lot of time and energy. Hopefully I have included some of the highlights to give you a jump start on your own discoveries. Note: There is an Atlantic Avenue in Delray and an Atlantic Avenue in Fort Lauderdale.

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On a recent visit I took Exit 81 off the Florida Turnpike. As I headed toward Delray Beach, I passed several shopping complexes as well as residential areas. Until this visit, I had not known they existed, as I usually took I-95 from the north into Delray Beach. For more information about Delray Beach, visit www.delraybeach.com.

Colony Hotel and Cabana Club 525 E. Atlantic Ave. 561-276-4123 www.thecolonyhotel.com

The sister property to the Colony Hotel in Kennebunkport, Maine, this Delray Beach hotel is one of those gems that you will feel glad to have experienced. It oozes original character and has a wonderful ambiance that mixes old and new. Its 1926 style and grace are evident, although modern updates abound. Its location on Atlantic Avenue allows for easy access to the multiple shops and dining venues the area offers. Another option is to sit on the porch, people watch, and possibly enjoy a beverage. Parking is behind the hotel in the establishment’s own parking lot. Everything is so well thought out at the Colony. Jestena Boughton, daughter of originator George Boughton, does an excellent job of overseeing the Colony properties. The decor is absolutely perfect for the hotel. It is basically the original style, with vintage tropical furniture and fabrics. Yes, the hotel’s furniture is original Ficks Reed wicker purchased from John Wanamaker’s store in Philadelphia in 1926. It is covered with Designers Guild Osborne & Little fabric. The lobby’s terrazzo floors are original. Nothing is uninviting. The original elevator, operated by a staff member, is charming—if such an adjective can apply to an elevator. George Boughton stored a large fireplace mantle for many years in the attic at the Kennebunkport Colony (there is no attic at the Florida property). Jestena decided that it needed to be brought back to its original site. Carefully packed and returned in 2003, it has now become, once again, a part of the lobby. It is a focal point. Six original (wooden) skylights add to the lightness of the area. The mix of colors—many of the Gerber Daisy variety—is absolutely fantastic: bright greens, orange, salmon, and blue, with white moldings and trim. This color theme is seen

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throughout the hotel. The flowers are in all the right places, including the hanging wall vases. There are seventy guest rooms, including twenty-two two-bedroom suites. The original hardwood floors of Dade County pine shine proudly. The decor is of the period. It is immaculate and cozy. All the usual amenities are found in each room, as are organic cotton sheets and white, all-cotton, matelassé bedspreads, as well as (I love this!) operable windows. My bedroom had individual wall lights on each side of the bed. So sensible. Hooks are needed in the bathroom, as are instructions for the air conditioner—but how minute can a critique be? A complimentary continental breakfast is served daily in the lobby. What a delightful and delicious way to start the day! Congratulations! The Colony focuses on the environment and has been awarded three green leaves by the Audubon International Green Leaf EcoRating Program for Hotels. On each guest floor, recycling stations have been set up. Special attention is given to what is purchased for the hotel and how it affects our environment. Located a mere two miles from the hotel is the Colony’s Cabana Club, which has a 250-foot, private sandy beach to enjoy as well as a saltwater pool that is heated environmentally. For hotel guest and club members, this beach oasis has a complimentary shuttle service, complimentary parking if you drive, and complimentary cabanas, chaises, and umbrellas. In season, “beach-style” lunches are served, or as a hotel guest or club member, you can bring your own fixings and grill, if so desired. Refrigeration is available. Everything has been considered. This special property in Delray is a wonderful gem. The tall, very attractive, slender owner nurtures the property with obvious love, devotion, and respect. You will see for yourself, so just be sure to visit the Colony or, even better, stay for a night or longer.

Sundy House 106 S. Swinton Ave. 561-272-5678 www.sundyhouse.com

Originally the home of Mayor and Mrs. John S. Sundy and their eight children, this beautiful Victorian building is the focal point of this special

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hotel located just a short distance from Atlantic Avenue. Once there, you forget you are in downtown Delray, much less in Florida. You just might feel that you have been whisked away to an exotic island. Arriving at the Sundy House, as you check in, you begin to feel relaxed and far from the crowds. You will be shown to your accommodations, which are initially a little hard to find as the pathways are circuitous. Signage is not prominent. Hidden in the acres of lush gardens are eleven luxurious hideaways, each individual and special. Six of the rooms are equestrian themed, perhaps because they are in the Stable Building. Four suites are in the Townhouse Building, and then there is the totally equipped luxury cottage. The amenities in each room and throughout the property are excellent. The Sundy House features the only freshwater hotel swimming pool in Florida. My room was a wonderful oasis—again with an exotic island atmosphere although the room theme was equestrian. It was well appointed and very attractive, although I did note four possible improvements: More hooks for towels would be nice. The lighting was poor, although I can imagine situations in this exotic room in which no lighting would be in order. My bed had an attractive canopy, but the sides blocked the light. Bedside lights were hard to turn off. None of this was major, so needless to say, I was very comfortable. Adding to the exotic ambiance when I was at Sundy House were the heavy rains playing their tunes on the roof and outdoors. Rain or shine, you will enjoy. An excellent place to start the evening or just meet is the Roux Bamboux Lounge with its inviting setting. The Sundy House Restaurant is adjacent to the lounge. The big, half-moon-shaped, marble-topped bar is a nice gathering place. I enjoyed that it was not too bar-like, and everyone was more than friendly. I met several interesting and gregarious people— the kind who are not afraid to talk to a female stranger. The female “bar server” kept everything going and lively, perhaps because she was so very attractive and adept at her tasks. There are three options for dining at the Sundy House Restaurant: the Gallery Room features local artists, and the presentations change monthly; the Mediterranean Room is themed as such and has a ceiling of grapevines and hanging grapes (not edible); the Fresco Room can

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provide either indoor or outdoor dining as the glass windows can be raised like garage doors. How creative! Sundy House is known for its Sunday brunch. Huge tables are filled with delights from soup to dessert. All the Champagne, Bloody Marys, and mimosas you want are served. The complete brunch package, gratuity included, costs approximately $50 per person. One evening, I enjoyed sample plates of various items that the chef chose, and each was absolutely delicious. Dinner prices range from $10 to $20 for starters and from $25 to $34 for entrées. Just what one would expect at such a special oasis, the prices were not over the top. Surrounding the Sundy House are the Taru Gardens, with “more than 5,000 plants and over 500 varieties from all over the world.” This special and impressive property is part of the Kessler collection.

Crane’s Beach House Hotel 82 Gleason St. 561-278-1700 www.cranesbeachhouse.com

A zillion people have probably walked by the foliage-covered front gate of this small, private oasis and never wondered what lay beyond. Nestled into this enclave is a tropical haven, where everything is nipped and tucked to perfection. Nothing is ostentatious. Quietly colorful, the two warm saline pools with cool misters are immediately tempting, and the tiki bar is inviting. Notice: happy hour on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays offers two-for-one on house wine and beer. Breakfast is served in the area. The rooms are island decor: pastel colors and a king-sized bed (mine was a four-poster). A perfect, huge palm tree is painted on the wall. Everything is soothing. My accommodations had a small living room, kitchen, and eating area. It definitely said, “You can move in if you want.” All rooms have kitchen facilities, and there are one- and two-bedroom suites. The living room sofa can be made into a bed. The modern-day necessities are in place. There are gated security entrances, as well as complimentary parking, and the property is pet friendly. Truly, all has been carefully considered.

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The beach is but a block away, as is downtown Delray. You do not need a passport to feel as if you are on a private island. Enjoy Crane’s and all it has to offer.

Restaurants

Caffé Luna Rosa 34 S. Ocean Blvd. 561-274-9404 www.caffelunarosa.com

Even if you usually do not eat breakfast, here at Caffé Luna Rosa you will. There are pancakes of many varieties and French toast of even more varieties. Omelets and XL egg dishes are numerous; plus, there are cereals, breads, and sides. Quote: “We proudly serve Caffé Luna Rosa coffee roasted and ground daily.” Pricing is creative. After some items, there is the price 5¾, 6, 3¾, 2½, and so forth. If you get a window table, you can not only watch the ocean but people as well. What a nice way to start the day! But get there early, and even then, be prepared to wait. It is worth it!

J&J Raw Bar and Grill 632 E. Atlantic Ave. 561-272-3390 www.jjseafooddelray.com

John and Tina Hutchinson run a wonderful raw bar with a good menu and a happy atmosphere. The first time I visited briefly, I enjoyed the delicious vichyssoise—or it could have been leek soup—served in a goblet. There is seating outside or in. It is open for lunch and dinner. The next time I was at J&J, Chef John had me taste several items. I emphatically stated small samples please, which he sort of complied with. I am not complaining, as everything was so good. The soup samples were cucumber cilantro with smoked salmon on the top and gazpacho with crabmeat. Oh my! Then I tried a piece of grilled pork loin—so juicy with homemade apple butter and sweet potatoes. Oh my! Then I sampled a pistachio-crusted yellowtail snapper with lime coconut sauce. Oh my again! Then I was forced to eat John’s bread pudding. Oh my, my, my! This was the best I have ever had. The caramel sauce

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that covered the pudding and the smooth consistency resulted in . . . Oh my, fantastic! There is no question that when John studied at the Culinary Institute of America, he learned his trade well. You will enjoy. Sonoma Café and Bistro has closed but the owners have opened Atlantique Café.

Atlantique Café 777 E. Atlantic Ave. 561-272-1170

Their ad reads, “World’s Best Home Made Soups: Open for Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.” An on-site critique is pending.

Shopping There is no shortage of places to shop in Delray. Here are a very few to get you started.

The Snappy Turtle 1100 E. Atlantic Ave. 561-276-8088 www.snappy-turtle.com

Over twenty-five years ago, Carol Harvey established this colorful, eclectic, over-the-top, fun, tempting, and sometimes outrageous shop. I hear that it is acknowledged as “the original pink-and-green preppy store.” As the saying goes, “You’ve come a long way, Baby”—from ribbons by the yard, stickers, and the like. Now daughters Carole, Caroline, and Meredith have taken the ball and run with it . . . big time. Go and enjoy. You will have fun and possibly buy an item or three. You’ll probably make a statement with what you purchase. Hours: Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.; Sunday 12 p.m. to 5 p.m.

Love Shack 137 E. Atlantic Ave. 561-276-7755 www.snappy-turtle.com

Like the Snappy Turtle, this shop is just plain fun.

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Harvey’s on First 102 NE First Ave. 561-278-6166 www.snappy-turtle.com

The slogan here is “Home Interiors for the Happy Homemaker!” Yes, indeed! To this, I add, “Or for the homemaker who wants to be happier.” Don’t miss the Snappy Turtle Outlet at this location! How smart to have an outlet to keep the merchandize moving. Everything is on sale. I have not been to the new “digs,” but I probably will have before this book gets into your hands as I can’t miss a sale.

Great Stuff 901 George Bush Blvd. #8 561-243-0010

Great Stuff has three large rooms full of wonderful, sensibly priced items that you will find hard to resist. The phrase “previously enjoyed” is a slogan of sorts. The shop carries a lot of items, from antique to modern to just decorative, so do not think you will just do a quick walk-through. Simply looking will give you lots of ideas, but you will probably see a few must-haves. Hours: Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Bethesda Bargain Box 12 NE Fifth Ave. (Southbound Federal Highway) 561-278-2401

To be safe, call for the hours they will be open and plan accordingly. This fun shop raises funds for a very worthy cause—the Bethesda Memorial Hospital. Manager Michelle Esposito has turned the shop around, creating its fabulous presence. I have definitely found some treasures and bargains here. Go snoop and buy. It is hard not to find something (usually some things) at this must-go-to. The Bargain Box is not only organized and clean, but I have found the staff to be superfriendly and helpful. Enjoy!

Turn Over Shop 10 NE Fifth Ave. 561-276-2073 www.stpaulsdelray.org/turnovershop.php

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This shop is worth a stop. My last visit proved it has definitely upgraded, and you just might find a treasure. The Turn Over Shop has expanded and improved over the years. Good luck!

Ginjer’s Designer Bargain 133 E. Atlantic Ave. 561-272-1033

Ginjer’s carries lots of tempting items of all varieties. Yes, the prices were sort of “bargain,” but my favorite items were for tiny adults—at least a size or two or more smaller than me.

Miscellaneous In Delray Beach, you will not be without shops of all sizes and varieties to enjoy. Every time I visit, there seems to be more and more. Be sure to drive up and down U.S. 1/Ocean Boulevard. There are huge homes, and it is an interesting drive.

BOCA RATON This ever-growing, attractive, upscale community has a very diverse population. The shopping of all varieties is excellent, especially for antiques and home accessories. There are consignment and thrift shops, but I did not review them this time. FYI: In Spanish boca raton means “mouse mouth.” In the early days, as sailors came through the inlet, their cables would be gnawed on, and soon the area received the name Boca Raton. Despite the translation, the reality of the area is as different as can be from that suggested by the name.

The huge and magnificent edifice of the area is the Boca Raton Resort and Club.

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Boca Raton Resort and Club 501 E. Camino Real 888-543-1277 www.bocaresort.com

Designed by legendary and unique architect Addison Mizner, this impressive inclusion in the Waldorf=Astoria collection is the epitome of a superb resort. I cannot think of a thing that is missing on this magnificent 356-acre property. You will be in awe the first time you approach this impressive pink building. The service is excellent, staff is knowledgeable, and the attention to detail is flawless. The accommodations are wonderful and comfortable, and there are lots to choose from. Double-check the Yacht Club, the newest wing that overlooks the impressive marina. There are also the Tower, Cloister, Boca Bungalows, and Boca Beach Club. Dining is outstanding on every level: The following three restaurants I thoroughly enjoyed. Cielo (561-447-3640) is located on the twentyseventh floor of the Tower. The decor and exceptional views enhance the superb culinary fare offered in this beautiful dining oasis. Serendipity (561-447-3640) is colorful and joyous. Familiar for years with the original Serendipity in New York City, I adored a casual but perfect lunch at the Boca location. The SeaGrille (561-447-3050) at the Beach Club is spectacular and delicious. The Palm Court (561-447-3640) was delightful for early drinks and discussions. Other dining venues I did not try this time include Morimoto Sushi Bar and Lucca. I would venture to say that “excellent” would be the adjective for each. Sports abound: tennis, golf, swimming at the beach or pool, sailing, fitness and health, or just mastering “nothing.” There are camps for children: Boca Tots for ages three to five; Boca Bunch for ages six to eight; Boca Beachcombers for ages nine to twelve; and Boca Teen for ages thirteen and older. Spa Palazzo (561-347-4772) is among the best spas I have had the pleasure to experience. It offers several signature treatments, and one must investigate and experience. You can be scrubbed, polished, and massaged, and each is superb.

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The Boca Raton Resort and Club is a masterpiece. I could go on and on. Suffice it to say unequivocally that you will enjoy to the max visiting or staying at this magnificent resort. Personal input: Many years ago I visited friends at the resort. It was big and not fine-tuned. Years later, I heard that it had qualified for a “just-so” ranking. Now all that is changed and I say, “Congratulations and loud applause for the Boca Raton Resort and Club of today.”

FORT LAUDERDALE Exit the Florida Turnpike at Sunrise Boulevard (Exit 58). You will be heading east toward the ocean. Immediately, you realize you are in a bustling area. I had not been to Fort Lauderdale for several years—except to the airport. Initially, I visited with my parents during spring break. We stayed in the Lauderdale Beach Hotel, now, I hear, a National Historic Landmark. Back then, spring break was not like it is today. We dressed for all meals in the dining room, and that protocol held up until not so long ago. Fort Lauderdale has a lot of history. In fact, during World War II it had a naval air station, which introduced a lot of troops to the area, and after the war they returned. Today, it is a thriving, rapidly expanding Florida city. The airport is one of the most popular in the area as it is slightly less hectic than Miami International. Arriving on Fort Lauderdale Boulevard, which parallels the ocean, hotels of all sizes abound in every direction, as do the throngs of people. The only thing that has not changed (from my youth) is the ocean. Driving around to see if anything looked familiar, I quickly realized that this is no small Florida beach town anymore. It is busy and bustling. A few blocks from the ocean there remain some small, possibly original houses; though now dwarfed by the mega structures, their charm is undeniable. Then, I found the street: Las Olas Boulevard. I had not been in Fort Lauderdale forty-five minutes, and I had found my kind of street

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and area with inviting, upscale boutiques and several consignment shops. Sometimes you just luck out!

Las Olas Carriage Trade Emporium Inc. 1306 E. Las Olas Blvd. 954-525-5353

Bohemian Style Design 1314 E. Las Olas Blvd. (in walkway behind the Mail Bag) 954-759-9144 www.bohemianstyledesign.net

Lillian Davis: Past and Present 1217 E. Las Olas Blvd. 954-523-2990

You could spend a long time on Las Olas Boulevard, with the restaurants and shops of all varieties. Check lasolasboulevard.com.

Atlantic Resort & Spa 601 N. Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd. 954-567-8020 www.atlantichotelfl.com

Excellently situated and easy to find, the Atlantic Hotel faces the ocean and is prominent. Although the entrance is on a side street, it is easily accessible. A most pleasant, efficient, and professional staff greets you. There is street-side parking if you can find a spot, but it is best to use the hotel’s valet parking. The format when I was there was as follows: The doorman lets the front desk know you have arrived. Then, as you enter, you are greeted and shown to the seating area of the lobby. You are quickly served an herbal, lavender-infused drink and presented with a chilled towel. The hotel features are explained as your information is obtained, and you are checked in. This is a nice procedure compared to standing in line at a counter, although there is a staffed front desk. The Atlantic’s lobby is modern in decor with hanging blue lights overhead. They work, but I am not sure they properly accent the impressive area. To me, they distract more than they attract. Each feature on its own is excellent, but together I have to give them another look.

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I was spoiled. My room was a spacious, luxurious suite, which, I found out, can be purchased. At the Atlantic, you can buy your home away from home, and if you like, you can have the management list it in the hotel’s guest inventory and rent it. The owner receives 50 percent of the revenue. This condominiumizing is becoming a prevalent arrangement in many hotels and is feasible for all concerned. The prices ranged then from $600,000 to $4 million. My accommodations included a full kitchen, dining room, living room, two bedrooms, and an office. The porch overlooking the Atlantic Ocean was inviting, and the ambiance romantic. There is nothing like the sound of the ocean. The rooms start at 575 square feet and go up to the oversized suite at 1,200 square feet. To say the rooms are spacious and attractive is an understatement. Fully equipped they are to the max. A little fine tuning is needed, but I would still rate the property as outstanding. The music playing when I entered the room was loud, and I could not figure out how to turn it down. Finally, I called a bellman, and together we discovered the covert switch. Maybe a sign would solve such dilemmas. Whether you are ready to move in, escape, entertain, work, or frolic, the suite is ready to accommodate. The bedroom with its light walls, darkwood trim, and views is inviting and soothing. There are DVD players, in room video games, an oversized desk with an all-in-one fax, copier, and printer. I will share one observation because it made me laugh, and I wondered about the architect. The wonderful large master bathroom is down the hall outside the bedroom. The bathroom has an oversized tub and large, separate shower. The toilet closet is roomy. There are double vanities in a long, marble top. It is a very attractive, very well-appointed bathroom. What amused me, for some reason, was that the distance from the bedroom to the bath was approximately eighteen feet. I paced it off. That is a long way to walk in the middle of the night! The organization of the hotel is excellent. The rooftop swimming pool overlooking the ocean is truly beautiful and most inviting. The fitness center is always open, and the European Spa Atlantic offers many features. The Trina Restaurant is attractive and trendy: “The Place to ‘Sea’ and Be Seen.” Sitting in the bar area is pleasant, and you do not feel crowded. I had a signature drink, the Trinatini.

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To make a little Atlantic Trinatini you mix vodka, Mandarine Napoléan, fresh lemon juice, verjus, lavender syrup, and pomegranate molasses. Considering the ingredients, perhaps this is a drink to order, not to make. The sampling of hors d’oeuvres was fair to good. Some did not remain tasty when not eaten right away. Others were too bready. The motto for Trina is “Where the Mediterranean Meets the Atlantic.” There is far more good than just okay at Trina’s. The Atlantic is a well-thought-out property and, I repeat, very attractive. It has luxury, and all the amenities that you might require are in place.

Lago Mar Resort and Club 1700 S. Ocean Ln. 954-523-6511 www.lagomar.com

What an exquisite, beautiful, charming property. Perhaps the fact that it is a family-owned resort (second generation) and all are involved in keeping everything pristine and perfect contributes to the positive fact that all works—and works well. From the time you go through the main door, see the beautiful, colorful sea-life mosaic artwork on the floor, and are greeted by the efficient staff, you know you are in a very special place. Everything is well thought out. Nothing is garish. The rooms are well appointed and sizable. One tiny zit: yes, the toilet seat is horseshoe! Two minor observations: I could not quickly read the script for hot and cold on the shower handles, and the fan should have a separate switch so it doesn’t have to run if not needed. The Spa at Lago Mar is state-of-the-art. I cannot speak from experience, but all reports are excellent. I can say that the prices are normal to high. The two pool areas are beautiful, but the beach is more than magnificent. There are tennis courts, miniature golf on-site, and nearby there are more sports to enjoy. The dining room is most pleasant, and meeting and chatting with other guests and members at the bar after dinner is a delightful ending to the evening. One cannot just walk in Lago Mar and dine or sightsee. One must be a hotel guest or a club member, and no cash is used on property, only your hotel or club card. Lago Mar is a fine treasure of a property.

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Turnberry Isle Resort 19999 W. Country Club Dr., Aventura (North Miami Beach) 305-932-6200 www.fairmont.com/turnberryisle

When referring to this resort, you should include “isle” as that will distinguish your meaning from other uses of the name Turnberry. Since I visited this huge and impressive property, I hear that $100 million plus has gone into various makeovers. I will just give the highlights of my visit knowing that all has improved—if that is possible. It was a good visit to a most special property, and I think positives should be repeated. Arriving at the property, you must be cleared at the gate. You will instantly realize that you are in an oasis, although a mere stone’s throw from congestion of all varieties. The front entrance is always busy. As I drove into the appropriate place, parking attendants and bellmen were quickly at hand, and my luggage and car were on their respective ways. I was shown to the front desk, where a most attentive staff member checked me in, and I was then shown to my room. Again, I noticed the signage was poor, and as I followed and chatted with my escort, I tried to remember distinctive marks to guide me when I would be on my own. Arriving at my room, I was immediately delighted with the accommodations. There was a living room area with a large entertainment center, a writing desk, and a porch overlooking the golf course. The bedroom area was in an alcove of sorts, the entertainment center servicing both areas. Soon I discovered the bathroom, which was large with plenty of counter space, a magnifying mirror, a TV, a large Jacuzzi, a large shower, and a toilet and bidet in a closeted area—with a phone, scale, and ash tray secured to the wall. The oversized white towels were more than ample to wrap around one’s torso. Within a couple of hours I was dressed for dinner. I confess that I pushed the wrong elevator button, but then a knowledgeable guest corrected me. Off the elevator I looked for signs to the Veranda Dining Room, now called Bourbon Steak (786-279-6600). Arriving, I was greeted and asked if a corner banquet would be suitable. Perfect! It was

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at the far end of the restaurant, and I could look down the entire room and people and food watch as well as take my notes. The restaurant is not huge. The peach-color decor, large chandeliers, and fresh flowers are all well done. If you are dining alone, remember that a corner banquet is the perfect table—regardless of the restaurant. Be sure to request it. The maître d’ asked if I would like anything special. I said I would like for him and the chef to choose—just no Roquefort cheese please. What a delightful and delicious meal I experienced! My first appetizer was pan-seared “Bobo Farms” fois gras: sweet plantain “tentacion,” toasted Cuban bread, toasted peanuts, jalapeno pesto, and Jerez reduction. When this beautiful appetizer arrived, it was different from what I expected. It was not the usual fois gras, a most delicate slice of liver. I asked about it and was told that it came from Hudson, New York, and was a special delicacy. I replied that indeed it was, and to add to the conversation, I talked about how I knew the area and would definitely look up Bobo Farms. I was certainly off to a good start. The waiter said that I should try, instead of a salad, another special being prepared as an appetizer: pan-seared diver scallops with soft herb risotto, crisp prosciutto, and pea sauce. The scallop was large and texture perfect and the soft herb risotto was excellent. The entire combination was outstanding. I was beginning to wonder if I would have room for what was described as a signature entrée: herb-crusted, roasted rack of lamb, goat cheese potato gratin, orange and mint compote, toasted almonds, and cumin jus. It proved superb. Lamb is one of my favorite dishes, and regardless of its preparation, I usually ask for some mint jelly—much to the chagrin of the connoisseurs. This time I did not, as the combinations were so perfect that all complimented each other. The wine I enjoyed was a New Zealand Brancott Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Reserve and a Coppola (yes, as in movie director Francis Ford) perfect red. Dessert was placed quietly in front of me: hazelnut chocolate with almonds under chocolate mousse, topped with chocolate ganache and tropical fruit sauces. It was decadent and delicious. Remember, these were my experiences when I was on property. In the hotel business, what is here today can be gone tomorrow. Since my dining experience was so delightful, I had to include it in this writing. I am sure the caliber has been maintained, even if names have been changed.

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Breakfast was in the same room as dinner, although the ambiance had changed. The doors were open so one could eat outside or in. Breakfast was fine, and it was a delightful way to start the day.

Spa I did not have time for a spa treatment, but I did tour this impressive spa. The decor was restful and the attention to detail evident. With the new makeover, I am certain that perfection is a given at Turnberry Isle. I look forward to verifying this assumption.

Mandarin Oriental 500 Brickell Key Dr. 305-913-8383 www.mandarinoriental.com

On an island near downtown Miami is the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Be certain you have explicit instructions as navigating to your destination through Miami can be difficult. As you are going to an island, you will be crossing a bridge, and finding it can be difficult. I had a bit of trouble, and it was Sunday, when there were not a lot of people around. I ended up driving through some iffy areas, though in my wanderings, I did pass a Marshalls and a Ross. (Smile!) On crossing the bridge, you see looming in front of you the signature fan-shaped Mandarin Oriental. There are several around the world, and the shape is similar. The welcoming attendants were friendly and helpful. As you enter, the sparseness of the Oriental decor is immediately evident. The lobby is large, and the view overlooks Biscayne Bay. It is most attractive. Check-in was friendly and efficient. The staff is bilingual, but I found it important to speak slowly and clearly. You are asked for your morning paper preference, which will be delivered to your door. I followed the bellmen to my room, noticing that the signage was scant. My attractive room overlooked the waterway. The view improved with darkness, as my window faced toward downtown Miami, and the nightlights glowed. The white quilt and oversized pillows on the king-size bed were attractive, and at the other end of the room, the white sofa and coffee table

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balanced the decor. Unfortunately, the coffee table was badly chipped. The furnishings were of a dark wood. The desk with the usual accessories also included a Bose music system. The bathroom was large but in need of improvements. There was hardly any space to put cosmetic essentials or travel items—although a small, three-tiered glass stand was minimally helpful. I discovered that two dark wooden boxes on the stand held tissues and amenities. Both the shower and the tub were large. The tub was not private as you viewed the bedroom when you soaked. The amenities (soap and so forth) are only in the brown boxes, so before starting to soak or shower, get the necessities. In my notes I say that it would be nice to turn the TV around and watch while you soak, but the faucets are in the way. The drain in the tub was a first. It is in the middle of the tub bottom, a fact I did not realize until it pinched me! Since I am supposed to be reviewing and stating my experiences, I must add that I noticed particles in the bottom of the tub, which I was not sure I wanted to share in the soak, so I had to give the tub a good rinse. The towels were wonderfully large and the robe cozy. I disliked placing these items on the floor, but there were few hooks or towel bars. The toilet was in a private room (nice), and there was a fancy scale. An iron, ironing board, umbrella, and flashlight were in the closet. More hotels should have flashlights. At turndown, a tray of items—a large, scented candle, a CD, and I think a breakfast menu—is placed on the bed. This is most attractive, but beware! You will be charged if you use the candle or open the CD. An information card should have been included because the additional cost was about $50. It would not be obtuse to assume that these items were for you to enjoy in the evening—especially since the room rates could easily include them gratis. I also thought about going off to sleep leaving the candle burning! So much for scented ambiance and the evening tray. Enjoying a meal at Café Sambal (305-913-8358) is not hard to do. I enjoyed breakfast sitting outside overlooking the bay. You can also sit inside. There is a small beach area, pool, walking path, and the Spa at Mandarin Oriental (305-913-8332). I walked through the spa, which seemed smallish but not unattractive. From the brochure, the services are many: the rates (then) range from $60 for a pedicure to $300 for specific mas-

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sages. There are classes in tai chi and belly dance at $20 for hotel guests and $25 for visitors. This 327-room waterfront hotel is attractive and well laid out, but I would not call it warm and cozy. It is not glitzy—but then, it is not meant to be. The spartan Oriental decor and ambiance have a soothing appeal, and it is quiet—excellent for the busy, tired guest. More hotels should consider creating this sort of atmosphere. For those who wish to travel with their pets, it is important to know that the Mandarin Oriental is pet friendly, provided the pet does not weigh more than thirty pounds. A $200 deposit is required, of which $100 is refunded upon checkout. This fee is for your entire stay. The Mandarin Oriental and its signature restaurant, Azul (305-9138358), have been awarded the AAA Five Diamond. FYI: On the island there is a small area with shops, such as a dry cleaner, market, drugstore, and restaurants.

Palm Restaurant 9650 E. Bay Harbor Dr., Bay Harbor Island 305-868-7256 www.thepalm.com

Started in New York City in 1926 by John Ganzi and Pio Bozzi, this family business became a small empire. Eating at a Palm Restaurant is a treat. Make a reservation. Every item on the menu is hugely delicious. The one problem is deciding what to eat. There are over twenty-five Palm Restaurants in the United States. Find, indulge, and enjoy.

Grove Isle Hotel & Spa 4 Grove Isle Dr., Coconut Grove 305-858-8300 www.groveisle.com

No passport is needed. Once you stop at the security gate and drive to the entrance of Grove Isle, you have a strong inkling that you are going to have a wonderful experience. And you definitely are. The attention to

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arriving guests (at least when I arrived) is instant both at car side and as you go up the few steps into the lobby. The Grove Isle property—a twenty-acre island—will immediately impart the aura of an island paradise. Upon entering the lobby you are impressed with the decor. Some positive changes have been made since I was there, but many of the former impressive accoutrements remain: marble floors, sophisticated, tropical murals, four large columns topped with huge architectural details reminiscent of the leaves of palm trees and illuminated at the top. Definitely impressive! Check-in is friendly and efficient. There are only forty-nine suites, making the property very manageable. Everything I initially viewed was exquisite, with strong and inviting romantic overtones. I was shown to my room, passing the bar and dining areas en route. Arriving at my tropical-themed room, I could hear myself sigh. It was a gem! There was the raised sleeping area, with the bed defined by wispy columns of fabric at each corner—a type of canopy bed. Stepping down, you were in the living area, with a sofa, chairs, and coffee table, a full entertainment center, and an inviting porch. The dark-green velvet sofa, side chairs, coffee table, and lamps were all perfectly placed on the large square-tile floor. Also, there was a round dining table with chairs. I was delighted to be in this oasis. There is no way you want to be aware of time, but since the real world exists, a (decorative) clock would have been useful. The bathroom was small but did not feel so. Every inch was put to perfect use. There was a toilet and a bidet. The chrome-and-glass hooks and toilet-paper holder were the most attractive I have seen—I just wish there were more hooks. The towels were wonderfully huge. There was a phone and a corner-mounted TV. The only thing I could not find was a soap dish. The small bottles of amenities are some of the most attractive of any property, and they smell wonderful. This cozy, well-organized space had everything. My room was a whimsical, tropical oasis, and although changes have been made, I am sure the newly designed room is one as well. Evenings on Grove Isle are special and romantic. The wonderful dull noises of the water, the lights on the mainland, the sky, the stars, and the sand all create the props for guests to enjoy.

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Renamed Gibraltar (305-857-5007), the old Baleen Restaurant and Monkey Bar have had a total transformation. Huge glass panels have replaced walls, allowing one to see out and across the bay, and the impressive panoramic vista is beautiful. Why all this was not done before, I don’t know, but now that it has, thank goodness. I saw the vista before, but in a totally different way, and now it is a showstopper. The decor, the truly original dining chairs, and all the other details are indeed impressive. FYI: You do not have to be a hotel guest to dine at Gibraltar, and you will not have to pay for parking—as at most restaurants. So smart.

The Spa at Grove Isle, from all I have gleaned, is only wonderful. That adjective probably applies to every inch of this island.

Mayfair 3000 Florida Ave., Coconut Grove 305-441-0000 www.mayfairhotelandspa.com

What an attractive and conveniently located property! The recently renovated Mayfair Hotel and Spa has much to offer. I was very pleasantly surprised, as a friend had said not to expect too much, although he had not been there for a while. Well, see it now! So much has happened at the Mayfair, and more is happening, as evidenced by the construction and redoing that is taking place. Check-in is convenient, and a concierge desk is close by if needed. There are 179 suites, and careful thought is being given to the property and its restoration. A large atrium is the hub of the hotel. You take a glass-enclosed elevator to your floor. The bellman takes you to your room, but finding it by yourself is not difficult. What an attractive room I had, and I was told that all the rooms are of this format and decor. The decor is more modern than traditional but not extreme. It is comfortable, with dark furniture juxtaposed against natural tones as well as whites and off-whites. The bedroom area was spacious, and then there was a living room area and a small private porch. Totally delightful. There was also a forty-two-inch plasma

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flat-screen TV (all Mayfair rooms have them), as well as DVD/CD players and other upscale amenities. The bathroom was large with lots of mirrors. It included a bathroom TV and no door on the toilet area. It could have used more outlets and hooks, as well as a more forceful shower. But the toilet seat was not horseshoe! (Yes!) The closet held the standard hotel safe as well as a microwave, an Avanti refrigerator, an iron, a coffeemaker, and two seersucker robes. There is no question one could easily enjoy a very long stay in these accommodations. A rooftop pool was being completed when I was there, but it looked beautiful, and every day in the late afternoon there is a complimentary wine hour for hotel guests. The wine was very good, and I found this a delightful time to meet and chat with guests or just take a magazine and escape. The Jurlique Spa (305-779-5135, www.jurlique.com ) in the hotel purports to be the only one of it kind in South Florida. Based in Australia, Jurlique offers two hundred organic, plant-based products for facial and body care. “We provide ‘scent-sensational’ aromatherapy with all massages. It is part of the holistic, relaxing environment.” The herbal, antioxidant blends are free of chemicals, animal content, and artificial fragrances and colors, making these products, Jurlique says, “the purest skin care on earth.” The spa is a nice size with seven treatment rooms and, as the brochure states, a Vichy water massage, manicure and pedicure stations, a couples massage room, and a hydrotub. Massage sessions can last thirty, sixty, or ninety minutes. Some of the treatments include “Citrus Salt Glow,” the “Foot Fetish” pedicure, and “Detox.” I enjoyed a pleasant massage. Dining is at Spartico, a gourmet restaurant that also features casual pizza choices. I have not eaten there, but I am sure it is a special place to eat and meet, based on my dining experiences at the Mayfair several years ago. Sidebar: The Mayfair is owned by the same owners as the Brazilian Court and the Omphoy in Palm Beach, which guarantees a wonderful if not magical experience. When I called for these updates, the phone was an-

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Florida: East Coast | 307 swered by Leticia. She was indeed a wealth of information. She has been at the hotel twenty-five years.

COCONUT GROVE “Coconut Grove” is the definitive spelling, although many spell it “Cocoanut Grove.” The Grove is definitely a place to visit, possibly indulge your senses, and use up some of your travel funds. If only a long walk around will suit, then that is fine too. It is a groovy grove with original, funky, colorful tidbits peaking out at you. This place has a lot of history and a lot of shops and restaurants. If time permits, visit the Barnacle, a historic state park built by Grove pioneer Commodore Ralph Munroe.

Barnacle Historic State Park 3485 Main Hwy. 305-442-6866 www.floridastateparks.org/thebarnacle

A short ride will take you to the magnificent Vizcaya.

Vizcaya 3251 S. Miami Ave. 305-250-9133 www.vizcayamuseum.org

This elaborate mansion and its beautiful gardens are fantastic. Created by John Deering as his winter retreat, this thirty-four-room home is spectacular. Do not rush as there is a lot to see. There is an admission fee. Call for details. Elaborating on all the different places in the Grove would probably have me spinning my wheels as every time I visit, something arrived or changed or moved. Just visit and enjoy. There is a lot to see and discover.

Off the Grille Bistro 12578 SW Eighty-Eighth St. 305-274-2300

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This gem is a tiny bit hard to find, but it is worth it—very worth it! Call and get directions. The food is delicious and very sensibly priced. Salads, hot wraps, and sandwiches start at $5.99, pasta at $6.99, and entrées at $7.99. My curry chicken hot wrap was delicious, as were the plantain chips. This tiny place is attractive; each wall is a different color, and there are vintage pictures of movie stars. It is clean with friendly staff. I met owner Robert Gordo, a most pleasant person, who was eating with his son. Several brothers are involved with this delightful bistro. Hours: They open during the week at 11:30 a.m. and, depending on the day, close at 8 p.m., 9 p.m., or 10 p.m.; Sunday, 12 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Two Chefs 8287 S. Dixie Hwy. (U.S. 1) 305-663-2100

Since Two Chefs’ inception about nine years ago, owner Juan Jorgensen has carved out an impressive place in the Miami culinary scene. He features seasonal foods, serves with classic American culinary style flavored with international tweaks. The prices are what you would expect, and the ambiance is upscale casual. Two Chefs offers hands-on cooking classes. The one that I participated in was called “Cooking with Spirits.” We chopped, stirred, sautéed, added, and then poured quantities of “spirits.” There is no question the sauces are important. When we had all completed the recipe’s instructions under the tutelage of the chefs, who continually checked our progress and advised us, we then plated our creations and were ready to enjoy the meal we had prepared. This cooking class was fun, as I presume all the classes are at Two Chefs. Also, you meet other novice chefs and spend a lot of time chatting and tasting, not to mention imbibing, if you want. Whether for a cooking class or an evening out, make a reservation and go and enjoy. Free parking is within steps of the front door. FYI: U.S. 1 is full of shops, restaurants, gas stations, grocery stores, and so much more. Kendall Drive, which extends from U.S. 1 West, has a lot of places as well, including all the chain stores and the et ceteras. There is a Town & Country, a Marshalls (this one has a Mega shoe department), a Ross, and on and on.

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SOUTH OF MIAMI I like taking U.S. 1 South as there is more to see, although it’s not found in most tourist books. You will pass all the standard stores and malls, but an area at the intersection of the South Dixie Highway with SW 224th St. definitely needs mentioning.

Cauley Square Cauley Square Historic Village 22400 Old Dixie Hwy. 305-258-3543 www.cauleysquare.com

Established in 1903, this delightful historic village gives visitors a glimpse of old South Florida. The square was built in the 1920s by William H. Cauley. Some of the houses that remain were hand-built by the early settlers. Now, there are antique shops, boutiques, art galleries, and such. Weekends feature live music and pony and carriage rides around Cauley Village’s scenic grounds. I know of people who have lived for years within an hour of this little village and never been to visit. Be sure to go, as it is different. I recommend doing a little Cauley Village shopping before noon, then having lunch at Cauley Square Tea Room or the new (more upscale) Village Chalet Restaurant.

Cauley Square Tea Room 12310 SW 224th St. 305-258-0044

Here is a bona fide tearoom serving soups, quiches, specials, and desserts. It has the definite charm that only a tearoom exudes. The prices are very sensible. The highest-priced item each time I have been there has cost around $10. Hours: Sunday through Saturday, 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.

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Village Chalet Restaurant 12312 SW 224th St. 305-258-8900

This restaurant (opened circa 2006) is a gem that serves fresh, delicious, and original selections. Samples of the black bean soup and clam chowder were very good. I had the chicken curry ($12.95), which was just right. The chicken was real and chunky, and the sauce was not too spicy. The rice was of the proper consistency. The crème brûlée was suggested for dessert, but I opted for a thin slice of the guava cheesecake. Oh, it was so good. Everything is fresh and prepared perfectly at Village Chalet. I must be accurate: On a subsequent visit, I took a friend. Of course, I had raved about the restaurant. The owner was not there, and the preparation was not tops. This can happen at the biggest and most elaborate places. I look forward to returning and trying the pasta served with garlic bread; then, I’ll succumb to the temptation of the crème brûlée. Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. FYI:

Goodwill Shop 24311 S. Dixie Hwy. (U.S. 1), Princeton 305-258-1068

At this perfect place to stretch your legs, there is a good chance you’ll find an item or two. Look carefully. Much you will see comes from upscale Miami areas.

Homestead and Florida City Homestead-Miami Speedway 1 Speedway Blvd., Homestead 305-230-7223 www.homesteadmiamispeedway.com

The Homestead-Miami Speedway was originally conceived in 1992 to help the area recover from Hurricane Andrew. When it opened in 1995, it had short, “chute” straightaways. There were further improvements from

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an $8 million renovation, and then with another $12 million infusion, the speedway became what it is today, hosting some of the most important NASCAR events as well as the Ford Championship Weekend. Check the schedules and attend. Varoom, varoom, varoom . . .

Coral Castle 28655 S. Dixie Hwy. 305-248-6345

Be sure to visit this true wonder! Here is a coral castle built by one man, Edward Leedskalnin. A small man with determination and engineering know-how, Leedskalnin came from Latvia and built this castle for his sweetheart, Agnes Scuffs. Just before the wedding, she decided she did not want to marry him, telling him he was too old. He believed that because he’d only had a few years of schooling and had no money, she had fallen for someone else. It is amazing that this coral castle was built by one five-foot-tall man. How he cut the pieces of coral and moved them to the site, usually at night, is mind-boggling. (That is putting it mildly.) Go and see this wonder, but remember, too, that it tells a love story. Often I suggest to friends, “Let’s go to Coral Castle,” and they show no interest. With effort I get them there, and then I have a hard time getting them to leave. U.S. 1 has a bit of everything: Publix, Marshalls, Dollar Tree, Walgreens, CVS, fast food, car dealerships, Home Depot, Walmart, Office Depot, and such. There is also the Florida Keys Outlet Center in Florida City (see below). Homestead has experienced a renaissance thanks to Hurricane Andrew. Actually, ill winds can blow some good. Homestead has become a thriving community of approximately thirty-two thousand people, the majority of whom are Hispanic. Construction of Henry Flagler’s railroad opened the area, and many of the workers stayed in Homestead after its completion. The town’s main areas are off of U.S. 1, heading both west and east. If you turn off of U.S. 1, take Campbell Drive going west, and you will pass various shops. Then head over to Krome Avenue—the heart of Homestead. Since Andrew this area has received a lot of attention. Some of the original buildings have been restored. There are lots of shops, as well as an antique mall at 115 N. Krome Ave.

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Everglades Alligator Farm 40351 SW 192nd St., Homestead 305-247-2628 www.everglades.com

This is a real farm for alligators. It has about three thousand resident alligators and a display of local snakes. Included in the admission price is an airboat tour.

Florida Keys Outlet Center 250 E. Palm Drive, Florida City 305-248-4727 or 877-466-8853 www.premiumoutlets.com/outlets/outlet.asp?id=93

If you need something or just feel like spending time looking and shopping, then this is the place to go. With its plethora of shops, this particular outlet is more than welcome as shopping in this area for so long was very scant. Closed Easter, Thanksgiving, and Christmas.

Everglades National Park 40001 State Road 9336, Florida City 305-242-7700 www.nps.gov/ever and www.everglades.national-park.com

From Florida City, you will turn off U.S. 1 at the sign for Everglades National Park. Turn right at the first traffic light (Palm Drive). Drive straight until you get to Robert’s fruit and vegetable stand, famous for its fruit shakes. Make a left at Robert’s, drive for a few miles, and then make a right. Shortly, you will be at the gate of the Everglades National Park. The cost to enter the park is $10 for a private, noncommercial vehicle. Entry on bike or foot costs $5. Remember, if “mature,” you can get a Gold Card for $10, which will take you into any and all national parks. It’s one of the very best deals in the entire universe. Due to the Florida hurricanes in 2005, many of the facilities were damaged, but most have thankfully reopened. Full of rustic beauty, this national park is an oasis. There is only one Everglades, so do not miss the experience—even if you have to visit in the buggy season. From December through April, the Everglades are pleasant. A cold front sometimes zooms

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in, but it doesn’t last long. Thunderstorms are numerous, humidity is high, and mosquitoes come in the droves in the summer. The rainy season is June through October (summer through fall), and that is when more mosquitoes visit. If you are lucky, a wind will be blowing when you are there. Regardless, if you are lucky enough to have a few days to explore and experience the beauties of wildlife and nature in this secluded park, you will be glad you did. There is camping, fishing, canoeing, boating, hiking, and all sorts of other activities. Unfortunately, the Flamingo Lodge and Marina has been closed. I had the most wonderful stay at this rustic, secluded lodge, which was an absolute fantastic treat and experience. Hopefully it will reopen someday. This park covers twenty-five hundred square miles (not acres!), making it the largest subtropical wilderness in the United States. Rare and endangered species call it home. There are currently only camping facilities. Perhaps one day a lodge will be open as this park is special—but then, all national parks are. Contact the park for particulars.

FLORIDA KEYS Remember: Mile markers (MMs) get lower as you head south. The Keys are divided into Key Largo, Islamorada, Marathon, Lower Keys, and Key West. Each of the divisions contains areas. With forty-two bridges connecting the islands, some people call this eighty-five-mile stretch “paradise.” It is pretty special. The blue hues of the waters that glisten in different ways throughout the day and evening, the turquoise of the sky, the tropical breezes—yes, it’s paradise. Hopefully it will remain so, but zoning and such must be implemented.

U.S. 1 South U.S. 1 runs from the top of the United States all the way to the southernmost point of Key West. It used to be one of the highways of the United States.

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Here, in the southern part of Florida (the Keys), it remains the major highway. In many places, it has only two lanes, which can get very congested, particularly on weekends. Some areas can be very unforgiving as there are no real shoulders to veer onto if necessary—just the ocean or the bay. Heading south off of the Florida Turnpike, which ends just south of Homestead in Florida City, you find yourself on U.S. 1. If you are heading to Key Largo and further south, you stay on U.S. 1, which is also called the Overseas Highway. If you want to take the more roundabout way, get in the left lane and turn left at the sign for Card Sound Road ($1 toll), which runs about nineteen miles through the mangroves. Everyone should do this at least once. At the end of Card Sound, you will make a right at the light onto Route 905, which will take you back to U.S. 1. If you take Card Sound, about two-thirds of the way along, you will pass some “dwellings.” Many of the owners live here full-time. It is a real community and definitely unique. You will find a most unique restaurant.

Alabama Jacks 58000 Card Sound Rd. 305-248-8741 www.alabamajacks.com

Dining at Alabama Jacks is an experience. There are the regular customers, but then there are the others. The cast of people at Alabama Jacks is unique. Many characters (none dangerous that I have seen) walk in and out. There are the Saturday and Sunday cyclists, the tourist, the natives, the bodies covered with more tattoos than clothing, the females whose curves you wish you had, the men whom you want on your team in case of an argument, and occasionally a celebrity or two. People arrive by boat as well as by land. The prices are very reasonable, and one of the best items on the menu is the crab cakes, although I’ve heard some people drive there just for the conch fritters. Realize that you will not experience fine but good dining here in an ambiance that would be hard to copy. On weekends, there is live music, which can lead to all sorts of “shows”—dancing and singing. By 7 or 7:30 p.m., Alabama Jack’s closes. That is when the mosquitoes arrive. When a restaurant cannot put up roadside advertising—due to county regulations that signage must be on the actual building—and people still

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arrive in droves, then you know the restaurant is doing something right— probably a lot right! That is the Buzzard’s Roost. Note: To get to Buzzard’s Roost, take Card Sound Road to end and turn right at the blinking light onto Route 905 or take U.S. 1 into Key Largo. At the gas station take a left onto Route 905. You can also call to get directions.

Buzzard’s Roost U.S. 1 MM 106.5, Oceanside; Route 905; 21 Garden Cove Dr. (Garden Cove Marina), Key Largo 305-453-3746 www.buzzardsroostkeylargo.com

As the restaurant states, “Don’t buzz by, buzz on in!” Buzzard’s Roost is one of those places that you do not want to change. It isn’t fancy, and it is slightly hard to find. Once you do get to this special waterside oasis, you will be glad you did. It is a delightful, casual grill and pub on the edge of a working marina. It serves excellent food in a most caring and friendly manner. The prices are very reasonable. As the menu and brochure state, it has “an extensive wine list and ten ice cold beers on tap.” My first visit was for the Champagne Sunday brunch. Aside from Champagne, sangria is also offered. My sangria was among the best I have ever enjoyed. Compliments to the woman who prepared it! For brunch, I had eggs Sardou: poached eggs with creamed spinach, artichokes, and hollandaise sauce on an English muffin. A bowl of fresh fruit was the included “appetizer.” Not bad for about $10! You will quickly realize why roadside advertising is not essential. The casual waterfront dining with its fabulous food, wine, beer, and atmosphere keeps people buzzing in . . . rather than buzzing by. (I took liberty with what is on their website.) Tip: Take the phone number with you in case you can’t find it. You won’t be the first or the last to call for directions.

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316 | Romancing the Roads Note: Overseas Highway is the last long section of U.S. 1, and either name is used.

Key Largo Many consider Key Largo the diving capital of the world, with John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park being a main attraction.

John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park U.S. 1 MM 102.6; 102601 Overseas Hwy. 305-451-9970 www.pennekamppark.com

The park is underwater, and snorkeling and scuba diving are the best ways to appreciate it. If that is not feasible, then take one of the glassbottom boats and enjoy. Any avid fisherman will tell you that in these waters you will experience some of the best fishing, be it for bone, permit, tarpon, and so on. Key Largo is a thriving area and becoming more popular with every sunset.

Caribbean Club U.S. 1 MM 104, Bayside 305-451-9970

This bar is not fancy, just the real thing. Some scenes in the movie Key Largo with Humphrey Bogart and Katharine Hepburn were filmed at the Caribbean Bar.

African Queen 99701 Overseas Hwy. 305-451-9970

This boat from the movie The African Queen, starring Humphrey Bogart and Katharine Hepburn, is on free public display.

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Florida: East Coast | 317 FYI: This Key Largo area, originally called Rock Harbor, was renamed in 1948 by developers who wanted to entice potential visitors and buyers to the area.

Shell World U.S. 1 MM 106 305-451-9797 www.shellworldflkeys.com

It’s worth a stop just to see so many fantastic shells. Shell World has more than just shells and items made out of them. You will be surprised by how expensive some of the more exotic shells are, but they are works of art by God.

Key Largo Proper Of course, you’ll find the Walgreens, Publix, CVS, and standard stores of that ilk. I won’t list all as they are easy to find—except for the post office, which you have to look carefully for as the sign to turn right (if you’re heading south) is small. The following are discoveries I have made in the area. Some you might not find listed in a travel book.

Sundowners U.S. 1 MM 103.9 (on the right as you head south) 305-451-4502 www.sundownerskeylargo.com

You are not alone if you have trouble finding this place—especially the first time. Find it! It is a landmark for good seafood, great atmosphere, and beautiful sunsets. Make a reservation and arrive about fifteen minutes before sunset. I enjoy sitting outside, where you can watch the boats and anyone on them. Neither the sunset nor my recommendation will be responsible for what could result from such an experience. It is quite thought provoking as well as romantic. The seafood selections are excellent, and the prices are normal.

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The Fish House Restaurant & Seafood Market U.S. 1 MM 102.4, Oceanside; 102401 Overseas Hwy. 305-451-4665 (HOOK) www.fishhouse.com

If you want to get into Fish House mode, visit the website. This casual Keys-style restaurant offers large portions of excellent fish selections. You can have your fish prepared in any way desired, and if you want smoked fish, it is smoked on the premises. I am always amazed by how fast the service is. Seating is quite close together, but that is fine as everyone is very convivial. Yes, you can also buy very fresh fish at their seafood market, but I doubt that you will be able to duplicate the preparation you will enjoy on the premises.

The Fish House Encore Restaurant, Sushi Bar & Lounge U.S. 1 MM 102.4, Oceanside; 102341 Overseas Hwy. 305-451-0605 www.fishhouse.com

As the advertisement states, this restaurant is “just a long cast away from The Original Fish House.” Encore is a bit upscale but still casual. You can dine inside or out. The service is good, and the prices are what you would expect. Of course, the seafood is excellent, but you can also get delicious steaks, chicken, and pasta entrées, if by chance you have become “overfished.” The piano bar adds that special ambiance, and is “on” from Wednesday through Sunday, 7 p.m. to closing.

Tower of Pizza U.S. 1 MM 100.5; 100600 Overseas Hwy. 305-451-1461

The Tower of Pizza’s logo is “Enjoy pizza in paradise.” For years I have enjoyed this place. The original Greek owner used to sit in the corner, speaking with another gentleman, and as they talked their fingers rolled “worry beads.” Their presence added to the total ambiance. Son Ilias now runs the Tower. It is not fancy or upscale, the lasagna and Greek salad are so delicious. You will agree. Go and enjoy this little restaurant, but don’t be surprised if there is a crowd.

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Denny’s Latin Café U.S. 1 MM 99.6, Bayside; 99600 Overseas Hwy. 305-451-3665

Denny’s ad states, “Key Largo’s Only Authentic Cuban Cuisine.” This place has a lot of oomph and smiles, and I enjoyed both my visit and the few samples I tasted. At the light, U.S. 1 divides into two lanes heading south, two lanes heading north.

Mrs. Mac’s Kitchen U.S. 1 MM 99.4; 99336 Overseas Hwy. 305-451-3722 www.mrsmacskitchen.com

This small, special gem of a restaurant is the realm of owner Angela Wittke and operating manager Paula Wittke. I met Paula, who has been on hand for eighteen years! (She doesn’t look much older than that!) She suggested I have a small fish plate. The fish was so fresh and prepared gently and perfectly. The sauces are exactly measured to add just a touch of pizzazz—not too spicy and not too heavy. I sat at the counter, and as I enjoyed every mouthful, I spoke with the girls on the job. Four women are the waitresses, and six to eight men tend the kitchen. Everyone is happy now that Mrs. Mac’s has reopened after a kitchen fire forced its closing. Despite refurbishments and some expansion, the menu has not changed. In 1976, Jeff MacFarland originally opened the restaurant, naming it after his mother, who had taught him how to cook. Angie worked for Jeff. In 1989, Jeff moved to Vero Beach and offered to sell the restaurant to Angie. Angie had a bit of a problem in the beginning, as people didn’t trust her culinary skills. She was a woman. What did she know? She soon proved them wrong. The menu is outstanding and full of choices. The most expensive item on the lunch menu costs around $5.95. A lot has changed in the thirty years Mrs. Mac’s has been open, yet much has not. The food is exceptional. The atmosphere is exceptional. The decor is delightful. The ambiance is delightful. The prices are right. Mrs. Mac’s is right. When

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speaking with Paula, while I ate one of the best light lunches I’ve had, she insisted I try the key lime pie, which was absolutely excellent. Are there more kudos I can give Mrs. Mac’s? Just go, eat, enjoy, and add your own kudos.

Keys Art & Furniture 99275 Overseas Hwy. 305-451-1232 www.keysartandfurniture.com

Colorful is an understatement for what you will discover in this very “Keys-ey” shop. The Adirondack chairs in bright colors create a cheery, nonconservative ambiance—unlike their darker ancestors. This shop carries wall plaques, pictures, and useful and funky signs—or Keys Art will custom-paint a sign for you. Plus, there’s so much more in this colorful shop.

Mr. C’s U.S. 1 MM 98; 98900 Overseas Hwy. 305-453-4256

Mr. C’s will be on your left heading south. We have all had ice cream— well-known brands, weak brands, and homemade. I am not an ice-cream aficionado, but Mr. C’s ice cream is in a creamy class all by itself. It’s so good, I became a convert! Bob Cangelosi, aka Mr. C, is a large man with a New York accent and a hesitant smile, but he greets all with a friendly welcome. He knows you are going to be thrilled with your Mr. C’s ice-cream experience, and he is right. In the display case is a collection of homemade ice creams and sorbets. You’ll probably stand and stare, trying to decide which flavor to choose. Mr. C will offer you a taste and a taste and a taste—just like the ice-cream chain stores. The offering of a free sample is where the similarity to chains stops abruptly. After trying several samples, I decided to have a cup of half coconut and half coffee ice cream. “Ohhhhh!” I heard myself say. “This is not ice cream. It is a cold, creamy, flavorful, delicious delight—under the umbrella title of ‘ice cream.’” The one problem with Mr. C’s creations is that

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they could become addictive in a very short time. I also sampled some of the sorbets. Just try the lemon. Oh my! On one of my next visits, the aroma of a hot dog caused me to say, “Oh yes! I’ll have a hot dog with a coke.” Let me tell you, that this was one of the best hot dogs I have had—ever! What a lunch! A loaded hot dog, cold coke, and a dish of Mr. C’s ice cream. All rate at least five stars. Mr. C also serves burgers and hot wraps, but for now I’ll stay with the loaded hot dog. How much better can a lunch be, and it costs less than $7? So good! In the background music from the 1950s plays quietly. On one visit, a video was playing. Think it was Casablanca or possibly Some Like It Hot. I can’t swear to what the movie was, but it did add to the ambiance. Don’t miss stopping at MM 98.9! You must go to Pink Junktique! Heading south on U.S. 1, a bit past Mr. C’s, turn at Anthony’s Wms. Apparel and go over to U.S. 1 North.

Pink Junktique U.S. 1 MM 98.2, Oceanside 305-853-2620 www.pinkjuntique.com

Look for the pink flamingo. This gem is a treasure trove of great clothing, from the funky to the fabulous. Also a back room is full of vintage home accessories, and look carefully as there are more accessories throughout the store. Owner Mary O. certainly has a following of consignors as well as shoppers. She obtains some of the best designer clothes, thanks to a bona fide, compulsive, totally upscale shopaholic consignor. Too bad this shopaholic creature’s size is “tiny.” Hopefully, this spunky Minnesota woman will be in the shop when you are there as she, like her emporium, is a gem.

DRIVING DIVA’S OBSERVATIONS GOING SOUTH ON U.S. 1

Harriette’s U.S. 1 MM 95.6; 95710 Overseas Hwy. 305-852-8689

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Here you will enjoy real home cooking and a wonderful atmosphere. Harriette’s is one of those most delightful, cozy places, and the food is so good you don’t realize how much you are eating. Hours: Open every day from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. A rather unique place is the Wild Bird Center.

Florida Keys Wild Bird Center U.S. 1 MM 93.6; 93600 Overseas Hwy., Tavernier 305-852-4486 www.fkwbc.org

This center takes in birds that have been hurt and tries to heal them. It is interesting, and monetary donations are appreciated. Admission is free. Driving Diva’s Just So You Know: Conch is pronounced “konk.” Stone crab claws are in season from October 15 to May 15. They come in three sizes: medium, large, and jumbo, which commands the highest price. Florida lobster yields sweet white meat from the wide tail. They are easier to eat than Maine lobsters. You can tell a Florida lobster by its enormous antennae and lack of claws. They are in season August through April. Key West pink shrimp are fabulous. They are in season during the cooler months. Yellowtail snapper is so delicate and native only to the Keys. Do not confuse it with yellowtail tuna. The two are not similar in any way except that both are fish. Key lime pie is made from the yellow, strong, tart key lime.

Places to know about along U.S. 1, just in case, include the following:

ACE Hardware 30317 Overseas Hwy., Big Pine Key 305-872-2992

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ACE Hardware MM 82.5, Islamorada 305-664-8823

Mariner Hospital U.S. 1 MM 91.5, Bayside; 91500 Overseas Hwy., Tavernier 305-434-3000 www.baptisthealth.net/en/facilities/mariners-hospital

There is also a shopping mall with grocery store, movies, book stores, general stores, and the like. You’ll also see many churches.

Islamorada Islamorada is considered by many the “Sport Fishing Capital of the World.” Everyone interested in sport fishing has fished here or wishes to.

The Rain Barrel U.S. 1 MM 86.7, Bayside; 86700 Overseas Hwy., Plantation Key 305-852-3084 www.keysdirectory.com/rainbarrel

This is a good place to stop and learn about the talents of Keys artists and craftsmen. The Rain Barrel calls itself “A Village of Artists & Craftsmen.” As soon as you walk in, you are immersed in an artsy Keys atmosphere. There are many shops selling clothing, paintings, drawings, photographs, and sculptures. There is also a place to sit quietly and have a beverage. It’s well worth the stop. As you cross Snake Creek, look at the beautiful homes along the shore.

Theater of the Sea U.S. 1 MM 84.5 305-664-2431 www.theaterofthesea.com

This stop is fun and educational for all. As they say, “You’ve got to sea it to believe it!” The ticket counter opens at 9:30 a.m., and it will be late afternoon before you know it. Aside from the various sights and shows to watch, you can also have lunch and take a dip, snorkeling with tropical

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fish. Use of the beach, chaise lounges, and towels is included in the price of admission.

Ziggie & Mad Dog’s U.S. 1 MM 83, Bayside; 83000 Overseas Hwy., Islamorada 305-664-3391 www.ziggieandmaddogs.com

Originally opened in 1962 by the legendary Sigmund “Ziggie” Stockie, this was once one of the places. (There were not so many restaurants in the Keys back then.) The actual building was built in the 1930s on a local pineapple plantation. In the 1940s, police and questionable Homo sapiens knew where this establishment was on MM 83. Then, in 1962, when Ziggie took over, the “joint” changed, becoming the place to be. Ziggie passed away in 1977, and his wife and son carried on until they passed away in 1991 and 1992, respectively. The restaurant tried to reopen, but it didn’t work. In 2006, Jim “Mad Dog” Mandich, jock talk host and former tight end for the Miami Dolphins, resurrected the old place with South Florida sportscaster Randy Kassewitz and experienced restaurateur and bon vivant John Atkinson. Although the old ways are gone, old Ziggie’s aura is still prevalent, but now with the zip and jazz of today. I stopped by on a warm March evening in 2007, and Ziggie’s was packed. The atmosphere was vibrant and jovial. And as it is said, “The bar was jumpin’.” Just wanting a nibble, I tried the lamb soup, which was really more a stew. It was delicious. I don’t think there was a sullen face in the entire restaurant. I returned in spring of 2008, and I join the many who rave about the steaks; my dinner companion did the same about the fish. Call, make a reservation, and enjoy.

World Wide Sportsman U.S. 1 MM 81.5, Bayside; 81756 Overseas Hwy., Islamorada 305-664-4615

Whether you are an avid sportsman or -woman or just appreciative of the outdoors, this mecca will have whatever you need. You cannot help but enjoy this special place. You can arrive by land or sea. Equipment for freshwater and saltwater fishing, as well as fly-fishing, guides, apparel (from head to toe), gifts, foods, artifacts, dining—it is all here and then some. Once inside this unique building, you find it hard to leave because

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you keep seeing something else of interest. Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 9:00 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 9:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. Marina hours: Sunday through Saturday, 6:00 a.m. to 5:45 p.m. Open 364 days a year. Closed Christmas Day.

Green Turtle U.S. 1 MM 81, Oceanside 305-664-2006 www.greenturtlekeys.com

I was told that this landmark was one of the few to survive the 1935 hurricane. Its history is Keys unique. The new Green Turtle opened in the beginning of 2007. It is sort of an upscale deli, the bar area being prominent. A bit more hip than its predecessor, it’s definitely a place to enjoy. When I stopped by on a Saturday night, it was full with a joyous crowd.

Uncle’s Restaurant U.S. 1 MM 81; 80930 Overseas Hwy., Islamorada 305-664-4402 www.keysdining.com/uncles

I was driving back from a day trip to Key West with a New York City friend. He was starving. (I think I walked him too much in Key West.) Without a doubt, it was food time, and when Uncle’s presented itself, and he said, “Stop!” I am delighted he uttered that four-letter word. Uncle’s is definitely a Keys place, and dinner was good. Looking at the card I picked up on leaving, I learn of the eclectic mix of fare one can order: Uncle’s serves Italian specialties, Florida seafood, and wild game, and provides a full-service bar. “Uncle” is definitely an uncle, and he was a fishing guide for thirty years before becoming an award-winning chef.

Casa Morada U.S. MM 82, Bayside; 136 Maderia Rd., Islamorada 305-664-0044 www.casamorada.com

A charming, quaint, romantic, and beautiful oasis, Casa Morada is a boutique property that you will glad to have found. It is a hideaway and a little hard to find. Local county rules do not allow signage except on

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the building in question, and the Casa is off the highway. Take the phone number, and get directions from wherever you are. The flawless, minimal decor immediately sets the tone. The large vase of orchids, the desk with just the right accessories, and the simple but large check-in table all fit perfectly as you are greeted by an owner or staff member. Thank goodness! The Casa is definitely not commercially slick and perfunctory. Nothing is flamboyant; everything is tasteful and soothing. From the main building, you can walk down and across a bridge onto an island of sorts, where there is a beautiful pool and sandy beach—and of course a hammock and inviting chaises shaded by large palm trees. The tropical foliage is perfect. (I have used that adjective a lot.) Between the beach and the main area, there is a covered deck with a cushy nook and lots of pillows that invite you to recline, sleep, dream, read. (No computers, please!) At various times I have seen several of the rooms. The decor is modern cozy and not ostentatious, but all the amenities you might need are present. Each time I visit, Casa Morada gets better. Rates start around $250 per night. There are sixteen suites in a relaxed, upscale atmosphere. It is quiet, pristine, secluded, and very attractive. Forget your U.S. passport and those hyped places thousands of miles away, where arriving and departing can be a hassle. Here at Casa Morada, you will think you are miles away when you are actually at a tiny oasis off of U.S. 1 in the United States. FYI: This oasis is ninety minutes from Miami and ninety minutes from Key West. You can arrive by car or boat—or hitchhike if you like. However you get there, you will be very glad you did.

The three women who purchased this property a few years ago truly gave it a renaissance. Granted, they had been well schooled in the upscale, competitive hotel world, but to come to the Keys and create this oasis took spunk. But they did it and did it well.

Lorelei Restaurant and Cabana Bar U.S. 1 MM 82, Bayside; 81924 Overseas Hwy., Islamorada 305-664-4656 www.loreleifloridakeys.com

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What a fun place for breakfast, lunch, or dinner! You could easily spend the day here, arriving by car, foot, bicycle, or boat. There are delicious foods—some of the best from the sea—and drinks as well as live entertainment. The prices are sensible. Here, in this idyllic, casual setting, it is hard not to have a good time. As one of the Lorelei’s ads says, “Let yourself be enchanted.”

Morada Bay Beach Café 81600 Overseas Hwy., Islamorada 305-664-0604 www.moradabay-restaurant.com

This café is most attractive and has a good setting. When I stopped by the first time, “friendly” was not on the personal menu of the person I spoke to. The staff’s demeanor was okay, which I would have understood if they were busy, but it was early, and the lunch crowd had yet to arrive. Then, I went back a year later and had a delightful experience. There are tables and chairs on the beach for dining—this is good for patrons but extra work for the staff. There are also tables not on the beach. The setting is very pleasant, and the menu is good, as are the prices. This is a definite must-stop. Do not be in a hurry—just savor and enjoy. It is so nice and so à la Keys.

Pierre’s U.S. 1 MM 81.6, Bayside, Islamorada 305-664-3225 www.pierres-restaurant.com

I have yet to dine at Pierre’s, which is owned by the Morada Bay team, but I look forward to doing so. I have never heard a bad word about this beautiful, elegant, upscale restaurant. Just look at the pictures on the website; they will speak to you, and you will call for a reservation. I highly approve of the dress code and the way it is stated: “casual Neat.” Jackets and ties are not required, but no ripped or inappropriate jeans or shorts.

Ms Cellaneous U.S. 1 MM 82.7, Oceanside; 82751 Overseas Hwy., Islamorada 305-517-9990

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This attractive “quality consignment shop” is filled with all sorts of items. The clothing is very nice, as are the accessories. You will also find a selection of jewelry, gifts, and whatnots. Look for the shop carefully as Ms Cellaneous is set back in a small strip-type row of stores, but it’s definitely worth the stop. Hours: Tuesday through Saturday, 11 a.m.

Cheeca Lodge & Spa U.S. 1 MM 82; 81801 Overseas Hwy., Islamorada 305-664-4651 www.cheeca.com

This special property was built in 1946, when the Keys were rather rural, and fishing was the order of the day. A fire demolished the hotel. In the 1960s, the Twitchell family purchased the property and built a resort they named the Cheeca Lodge. Years ago, I came to Cheeca, thanks to a schoolmate whose unique aunt owned the property. I discovered a wonderful establishment, full of old-world, upscale charms, mixed with the owner’s chic, savvy, and eclecticism, yet with an undeniable Florida Keys tempo and weather. It was a distinctive place, albeit in the then rural and relatively undiscovered Keys. It was a haven for the cognoscenti who liked fishing and what the Keys had to offer. In the 1970s, the Cheeca Lodge was sold, and then there were more turnovers and ups and downs. Competition was nipping at its heels. A property cannot maintain itself on its uniqueness alone. It takes proper, experienced management plus love and respect. Lacking in many ways for many years, these upscale credentials seem now to be in place. Over the years I have watched Cheeca’s rollercoaster ride. A few years ago, fine tuning was taking place and more. I haven’t visited in over a year, but I am delighted by what I’ve been told and the new pictures I have seen. With new management/ownership and the return of the dynamic general manager, Cheeca Lodge has experienced an undeniable total renaissance. From the time you drive into the property, you feel as if you are onto something special. The courtyard is inviting, with abundant landscaping. When you enter the main lobby, you look through the dining room area and out to the ocean. You are enthralled and elated by what you see. From the public areas to the individual rooms, the decor is primarily West Indies with accents of beautiful flower arrangements. All the room amenities a

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guest could want are in place—flat-screen TVs, Frette linens, the works. The bathrooms are sensibly designed to perfection. I didn’t see any horseshoe seats. When I stayed on property, before the advent of the present management, it was most enjoyable. My room was attractive and comfortable. Much more has been done. The George Bush Presidential Suite is an ultimate. (FYI: Cheeca was a favorite fishing haunt of the president.) The dining choices have always been good. The Curt Gowdy Lounge with vintage photos is a favorite of mine. The pool areas are relaxing and attractive, and one is for adults only. Here, there are private poolside cabanas to rent for a half or full day. Each cabana rental includes two cushioned lounge chairs, a flat-screen TV with remote, a refrigerator stocked with complimentary beverages, a ceiling paddle fan, two complimentary fruit smoothies, a complimentary fruit plate, and a spa butler for additional services. The spa is a full-service facility—not large, just nice. Some of the treatments use natural Keys fruit crops, such as key lime and mango. These I look forward to enjoying. The Cheeca has achieved a deserved Four Diamond/Five Star award. Staying on property, I surmise, is now better than ever. The Cheeca has also become a condominium hotel—most ideal for residents of Miami and environs. There are activities for adults and children. Note: The Cheeca Lodge & Spa sign on U.S. 1 is a little hard to see initially. I am told they are working on this, so be prepared to miss the entrance the first time. It’s not a big deal. What is a big deal is what awaits you at the Cheeca.

Bob’s Bunz Islamorada Restaurant & Bakery U.S. 1 MM 81.6, Bayside; 81620 Overseas Hwy. 305-664-8363 www.bobsbunz.com

As you pass some places, a special aura attracts you, even sort of pulls you with a magnetism or a smell of fresh baking. As I headed south on U.S. 1, I noticed a sign that said Restaurant & Bakery. My destination was further south, so I did not stop. On my way back north, I thought maybe it

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would be a good lunch stop. As I turned in, there were a lot of cars—a good sign—so I headed to the back parking area. I felt the stop would be worth it. If so many people were there, the chances were good that the food was an attraction—unless, of course, there was a pool table or a one-armed bandit. As I walked in, I knew immediately that I had made a good decision. I was greeted in a most friendly fashion by an attractive young girl, Gloria Teague. As I asked if the owner was there, chef Robert Spencer appeared with a broad smile, and we introduced ourselves. The two escorted me to a booth. The chef sat opposite me. He was so friendly and open and appeared genuinely glad that I was there. Of course, I did mention I planned to include his establishment in my upcoming book. I learned that he was originally from Philadelphia and had graduated from the Restaurant School with a degree as a pastry chef. Pulled by the warm weather, he had found his way to the Keys and worked in places with bakeries. Repeatedly, when his talents were confirmed, he became the head pastry chef, and adding to his responsibilities (as if there were any more time in his day), he sometimes also took on the tasks of manager! It soon became evident that talented Robert was being overworked and underpaid. To make a long story short, he landed in Islamorada at 81620 Overseas Highway, and the rest is history. The team of Robert Spencer and Gloria Teague has firmly established Bob’s Bunz, much to the delight of all who dine there. Robert’s artistry in creating wedding cakes is extraordinary. Rumor has it that the beauty of these masterpieces is only surpassed by their deliciousness. Look on the Internet to see just how creative and gorgeous a cake can be. I had one of his potato chip cookies, similar to a large sugar cookie, and it was light and absolutely delicious. The menu also includes the BBS (Bob’s Best Seller), huevos rancheros, the morning Gloria, Bob’s eight-inch omelets, homemade soups, and more. Go and discover. Breakfast or lunch is served anytime, and nothing costs more than about $10. Hours: 6:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.

The Banyan Tree U.S. 1 MM 81.2, Oceanside; 81197 Overseas Hwy., Islamorada 305-664-3433 www.banyantreegarden.com

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Charming, beautiful, and exotic: these are just a few of the adjectives that apply to this wonderful garden, antique, and gift shop. Walking through the garden, where all sorts of plants are displayed in abundance, I decided to adopt some and hope that they would maintain their beauty. Spiky cactus, groups of greens—nondescript, large, small, and variegated—orchids, flowering plants, night-blooming series, and bamboo, to name but a few— they all looked so perfect. Containers of all varieties are available. Throughout the garden and inside the shop, you are surrounded by a mix of old and new decorative arts—from plates, to lamps, to candles, to French furniture, linens, and more. Everything indoors and out is displayed so well, you cannot help but find some ideas and take home an item or three.

Marathon Marathon is growing and, in some ways, is a hub. When entrepreneur extraordinaire Henry Flagler, who “opened” Florida, was getting on in years, this area was a base camp for the builders of his railroad. Flagler did not want to die before seeing his railroad lines reach Key West. He made a plea to the workers to finish the job. After two years of “marathon” work by all, the railroad was completed, and the area got its name. By the way, Flagler’s railroad concept was called Flagler’s Folly. Oh, what an inaccurate moniker! The Museum of Natural History of the Florida Keys is here.

Museum of Natural History of the Florida Keys 5550 Overseas Hwy. 305-743-9100 www.cranepoint.net

I did my first serious fishing in Marathon. It was not a fancy place, but it was a haven for fishing. I stayed at Captain Bill Thompson’s, where I remember tarpon scales were on the wall where you checked in. Each scale stated the tarpon’s size, the name of the person who caught it, and the date. Oh my, has Marathon grown since those quieter days. It now even has an airport. From Marathon to Big Pine Key, you cross Seven Mile Bridge. Sunrise and sunset are beautiful times to cross the bridge, feel the expanse

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of all the water around you, and watch the waves dancing and reflecting the sun or the moon and the clouds. This bridge will take you directly to Bahia Honda State Park.

Bahia Honda State Park U.S. 1 MM 37; 36850 Overseas Hwy., Big Pine Key 305-872-3210 www.bahiahondapark.com

This park is considered to have a most beautiful beach. Once over the bridge, you will be at around MM 30 and in the lower Keys, of which Big Pine Key is the largest. Big Pine Key is home to two wildlife refuges.

National Key Deer Refuge 28950 Watson Blvd., Big Pine Key 305-872-2239 www.fws.gov/nationalkeydeer

A key deer is small, with a height of about two feet and a weight of forty-five to seventy-five pounds.

Great White Heron Wildlife Refuge 28950 Watson Blvd., Big Pine Key 305-872-0774 www.fws.gov/nationalkeydeer/greatwhiteheron

Divers from all over also come to this area to see the coral reef formations.

Hawks Cay Resort 61 Hawks Cay Blvd., Duck Key 305-743-7000 www.hawkscay.com

This is a true, sixty-acre island oasis. Located between Islamorada and Marathon, ninety miles south of Miami, Hawks Cay is a paradise with all the amenities you could desire. I visited when it was just out of its embryonic stages, and the potentials were obvious. Developers developed, but in

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time it floundered and fizzled. Fast-forward to 2010, and Hawks Cay is a sparkling gem. When I last saw it a few years ago, it was just beginning to shine. Now, from all I have read and heard, it is a masterpiece. My sources I trust. The pictures, although probably air-brushed here and there, reveal that the more than $35 million invested has resulted in tropical luxury, elegance, and barefooted delight. The water sports are many, as there are five pools and a saltwater lagoon: Guests can go game fishing, snorkeling, diving, or kayaking. There is a marina, and the comments about the Calm Water Spa are magnificent. The atmosphere is superb, and a world-class culinary team has been assembled. I can say no more, except that I hope to add to and underscore all I have stated with more recent, firsthand comments (perhaps for a next edition).

Little Palm Island U.S. 1 MM 28.5; 28500 Overseas Hwy., Little Torch Key 305-872-2524; for reservations: 800-343-8567 (3-GET-LOST) www.littlepalmisland.com

To get to this island, you take a tender—the thirty-five-foot launch The Truman—from the mainland. Little Palm has undeniable charm, exclusivity, and ultra style, comfort, and luxury. For this and so much more, you will pay—but it is worth it. There are no clocks, radios, televisions, or phones in the thirty spacious suites, though you will find air-conditioning, beautiful decor, and amenities. There are only two phones on the island and one TV. There is electricity, so business machines are available, if needed. (You’re crazy to even contemplate using them.) Children under sixteen are not allowed. Smoking is permitted outside; in fact, high-quality cigars are available for purchase. The man-made decor and ambiance, mixed with the abundant, lush tropical foliage, make this island a treasure of a hideaway. The beach is beautiful, but nothing here isn’t—and you are in the United States. It has been a couple of years since I was on Little Palm Island. It was special then, and I am certain all has remained the same, if not improved. Recently, when in the area, I tried repeatedly to get updates or have data sent to me, but to no avail. I mention this as I might be leaving out a detail or two. Visit the island, and you will see if I have overlooked anything. I don’t think so.

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The dining under the auspices of chef Luis Pous is fantastic. I hear that the general manager says, “There is lots of sunshine in chef’s cooking.” I do not remember what I ate on the island as I was mesmerized by the setting and company. I do remember that it was memorably delicious. What do you do on the island after you satisfy your all desires and imagination? Well, there is a lot. There is boating of all varieties, fishing, water-skiing, and snorkeling. Of course, there are board games and cards. (How civilized!) In the Zen Garden, you can truthfully think about yourself and your place in life. (Ah, what a gift, to see ourselves as others see us!) In the Great Room Library, you can enjoy a book from cover to cover or even just peripherally. Then there is the Noble House signature SpaTerre, which offers the “Balinese Spa Treatment,” “Thai Body Rituals,” and more fabulous treatments. It is hard to capsulate in a few paragraphs all that this island has to offer. It is an island paradise. FYI: Little Palm Island is 120 miles from Miami, 22 miles from Marathon, and 28.5 miles from Key West. Of course, you can arrive on your boat.

Mangrove Mama’s U.S. 1 MM 20; 19991 Overseas Hwy, Sugarloaf Key 305-745-3030 www.mangrovemamasrestaurant.com

Casual and delicious, this is one of my favorite little restaurants. You can eat inside, but the best seating is in the garden. I usually have steamed shrimp and a nibble of whatever my dinner partner orders. I’ve never had a bad meal, and it’s not expensive. Be prepared, as by 6 p.m. Mangrove Mama’s begins to get very crowded.

Key West To describe Key West, you need a plethora of adjectives that run the gamut from the familiar to the esoteric. It is a one-of-a-kind place, to state it mildly. Every minute you’ll see something that causes you to look twice, wonder if you really saw what you thought you did, then possibly smile, raise your

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eyebrows, and keep on looking. Merriments are key to everyday life. The streets are narrow, and the houses unique and close together. Don’t let the outside of a dwelling fool you, because the inside is probably a masterpiece of decorative charm. Key West, this unique place in the sun, is crowded, entertaining, and attractive in its own, personal way, and it should be visited at least once in a lifetime. Don’t be surprised if you get hooked and need a Key West fix every year or so. It is a hoot. If you allow yourself, you just might enjoy an inner calm resulting from this unique place. Chicago claims to be a town that never sleeps; well, Key West never closes. Key West is the southern most point on the U.S. continent, and MM 0 is at the corner of Fleming and Whitehead streets. A mecca for all, regardless of size, shape, background, attitude, or personality, Key West is a gathering oasis for gays and lesbians, which only adds to making Key West what it is. These groups are creative, kooky, flamboyant, understanding, and so much more. Key West is firmly on the map, but it wouldn’t be what it is if these distinctive groups were not in residence. Years ago “they” seemed different, and anyone or anything that differed from the established formats, be it in art, decorating, fashion, music, or whatever, was questioned. Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí, Frank Lloyd Wright, Andy Warhol, and Elton John are among the thousands who have received this treatment. What a loss it would be to fail to recognize their talent and the ways in which they have enriched our lives. The Pink Triangle is one of the special gay areas. Fantasy Feast, a major celebration, is something to see! Plan, go, and see. Whether you are in Key West for the day or longer, park your car so that you can take advantage of every minute. Get a map, wear comfortable shoes, have a hat for when the sun finds you, and get ready for an experience. It is important to know that there is public transportation (aside from the trolleys). For about $6, you can buy a three-day bus pass. I recommend getting on the bus and seeing everything you can as it drives around, then using it again to visit to the places you wish and probably didn’t realize you were seeing the first time.

Old Town Trolley Tour 201 Front St. 305-296-6688 www.trolleytours.com/key-west

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There is free parking at the Key West Welcome Center, where you can get the bus. This ninety-minute tour is completely and professionally narrated. You can get on and off to shop, dine, drink, and sightsee; every thirty minutes the bus will return and on you go. This tour is fun for children—I remember taking my boys on it—and it was informative and a rest for all. I read that there is a gay and lesbian tour, but that is all I know. Duval Street, the main, central thoroughfare, is approximately two miles long and goes from the Atlantic Ocean to the Gulf at Mallory Square. There are shops, bars, restaurants, art galleries, and then some on Duval. You find everything from brand-name items to bins of T-shirts and mixes of stuff. From the normal to the slightly tilted to even the majorly tilted, you will find it here in the one-and-only Key West, USA. On Duval, start at the upper end, and midway along, stop at the landmark Sloppy Joe’s.

Sloppy Joe’s Bar 201 Duval St. 305-294-5717 www.sloppyjoes.com

Alan S. Maltz Gallery 1210 Duval St. 305-294-0005 www.alanmaltz.com

This wonderful gallery shows fantastic photography! Alan Maltz has been designated the “Official Fine Art Photographer for the State of Florida” by Visit Florida and “The Official Wildlife Photographer of Florida” by the Wildlife Foundation of Florida. You will see why when you see his work. Consider purchasing one of his books if buying one of his photographs is not feasible.

Island Style 620 Duval St. 305-292-7800 www.islandstylegalleries.com

This little shop is full of interesting and fun contemporary American crafts. It has been open fourteen years.

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St. Paul’s Episcopal Church 401 Duval St. 305-296-5146 www.stpaulskeywest.org

This beautiful, small church is a treasure with magnificent stained glass windows, each of which has a story. After putting something in the coffer, take a copy of the well-done pamphlet Self-Guided Tour—The Stained Glass Windows. Just sit and look. Enjoy and pray. There is much to be thankful for. By late afternoon you’ll end up at Mallory Square. This is your focal point and where, if you get separated from your friends, everyone should meet. There are lots of people, some selling products, some performing—juggling, singing, and the like. Walk around and see what is going on. There are places to eat and drink, but most of all you can take in the sunset and the people. After your day’s explorations, you will want to sit, watch, and perhaps imbibe.

Ocean Key Resort Zero Duval St. 305-296-7701 www.oceankey.com

I have only toured this property, looking in the rooms and all around. It is a charming, delightful mix of South Florida and Cuban styles with a well-done eclecticism. There are one hundred rooms, some with water views, and a wonderful atmosphere to enjoy. Certainly not too inexpensive, Ocean Key is part of the Noble House group, so you know it will be special.

The Hemingway Home 907 Whitehead St. 305-294-1575 www.hemingwayhome.com

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Thanks to writer John Dos Passos, Hemingway and his then wife, Pauline, came to Key West via Cuba. Soon after their arrival, friend Charles Thompson introduced Ernest Hemingway to big game fishing. As the saying goes, “And the rest was history.” It seems that Pauline’s uncle subsidized the Hemingways and even helped buy their house on Whitehead Street. It is interesting to visit and picture Papa (Hemingway’s nickname) writing in the cool of the mornings, and as you walk through the house, you see exactly how he lived. There are collections of items from the couple’s travels—antiques, animal-skin rugs, trophies, and the like fill the house. And then there are the cats—lots of cats. As the story goes, a sea captain was leaving and gave Papa his six-toed tomcat. Its relatives still live at the house, many six-toed. Look at the pool; on the side is a penny that Hemingway pushed into the cement. It won’t surprise you that a group of Hemingway friends was called the “Key West Mob.” The “mob,” as well as the locals, be they well-to-do or not, became characters in his novels. Be it A Farewell to Arms, To Have and Have Not, For Whom the Bell Tolls, or any of the required reading from one’s schooldays, after visiting his house, the novels take on an added dimension. There is a lot of Hemingway history. Pauline and Ernest divorced in 1939, but the story goes on and on. Just be sure to visit the Hemingway Home. Hours: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Open 365 days a year.

Mel Fisher Museum 200 Green St. 305-296-6533 www.melfisher.com

Mel Fisher (1922–1998) persevered and in 1985 found his dream, the priceless treasures of the lost Spanish galleon Atocha. It took sixteen years. Over forty tons of silver and gold, one hundred thousand Spanish silver coins (pieces of eight), more than one thousand silver bars, emeralds, gold and silver objects, and more had been at the bottom of the ocean for hundreds of years. Seeds were found, and can you believe that they sprouted! Mel and his crew—many were family members—had salvaged a lot over the years, but this time they had found the “mother lode”! The value of the treasures is in the mega millions. Go visit the museum, and think about Mel’s words: “I think that perseverance has paid. That is one

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of the main things, just hang in there and do your thing and when people try to tear you down or get jealous, just let it go in one ear and out the other and keep on going.” Mel’s motto was “Today’s the day!”

Café Tropical 218 Whitehead St. 305-294-7622

On the side porch of the Mel Fisher Museum is this small, delightful eatery. Patricia and Steve masterminded this alfresco dining gem with birdsong and low jazz music wafting through the air—in addition to the cackles of a rooster or chicken. Remember you are in Key West, and the chickens and roosters claim residency everywhere. The menu has wonderful selections. When I visited, the soup of the day was Conch Chowder, and I recommend it. I was tempted to try the homemade crab cake or the grouper but decided to save them for next time. Nothing on the menu costs much over $10, and you can choose from a variety of beverages. Enjoy! This is the perfect place to dine and rest before your next Key West discovery.

5 Brothers Grocery and Sandwich Shop 930 Southard St. 305-296-5205 http://5brothersgrocery.tripod.com

You should not miss going to this shop. It is a favorite, and I visit every time I am in Key West. The headings on the menu are “Breakfast,” “Pastry,” “Coffee,” “Side Orders,” “Daily Soups,” “Daily Special,” “Sandwiches,” and “Souvenirs.” Everything edible is so delicious, and all is sensibly priced. Many of the choices are Cuban specialties. Enjoy! Available are groceries as well as kitchen utensils and a Cuban mop—a must-have, even if only as a conversation piece or for wall decor. Hours: Monday through Friday, 6 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Saturday, 6 a.m. to 5 p.m. There is so much to see and do in Key West. Read about this place before you go, and then be selective. Enjoy and plan to return.

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FLORIDA: WEST COAST

y discoveries on the west coast of Florida start at the southern part of the state, in Naples. From there I head north to St. Petersburg, then on to Arcadia, at which point I head back to the East Coast. The drive from coast to coast is easy and almost boring. I-75, also referred to as Alligator Alley, is an excellent interstate, but there are long stretches without services. Don’t run out of gas and get stranded. Double-check exits, especially for Naples. As of this writing, I hear that another exit is being added. Even if you miss one Naples exit, as I did, you will not have to drive far out of your way. I asked at the first filling station and was almost where I wanted to go.

M

This Might Help: Off of I-75, Exit 107 takes you to Highway 896, which is Pine Ridge Road. If you’re coming from the south, turn left at the bottom of the exit, and Pine Ridge Road will take you to Highway 41, which is Tamiami Trail and becomes Ninth Street. I used Highway 41 and Pine Ridge as landmarks during my visit. Hopefully this will help you get to your destination. FYI: The name “Tamiami” is a combination of Tampa and Miami.

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NAPLES This thriving, continually expanding city definitely has an upscale presence. There are lots of places to see and things to do—from beaching to shopping to sightseeing. Shopping can be tackled on many different levels as Naples has lots of places for indulging in that activity. There are the standard shopping malls or enclaves. For upscale shopping, there is Third Street South, where one can ultra shop and dine. For a shopping treasure, see the Naples Trail of Treasures below.

Lemon Tree Inn 250 Ninth St., South Naples 239-262-1414 www.lemontreeinn.com

This charming hotel oozes with colorful charm that is obvious once you turn into the parking lot just off Ninth Street. Look carefully for the entrance because it’s easy to overlook on your first visit. At the friendly, attractive, funky, and cozy Lemon Tree, you immediately feel at home and comfortable. The rooms horseshoe around the pool area. Each has a different decor, and each is colorful and roomy, with a small efficiency kitchen. One could easily spend the season here. Larger towels and glasstopped dressers and side tables are friendly suggestions. A complimentary continental breakfast poolside is a wonderful way to start the day and to meet other lucky guests who are enjoying this property. The rates are very sensible, and you are close to so many popular attractions. You are within walking distance (comfortable shoes required) of both the beach and the cafes and boutiques of the Third Street shops. Almost next door is a CVS. The Lemon Tree Inn is a delight, and you will wish you could stay longer. Girls of all ages, check out the Girls’ Getaway package. Close by is the Naples Trail of Treasures. You could walk. It’s a bit far, and you are bound to find something—or some things—in this special area (see below), so you had best take the car.

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Ritz-Carlton 280 Vanderbilt Beach Rd. 239-598-3300 www.ritzcarlton.com

A Ritz is a Ritz is a Ritz: upscale, beautiful, formal, well run, and pricey. I explored the main areas, and it is just as described. Ritz-Carlton Naples is a beautiful property. I had lunch at the Poolside Café and chose a signature item served only in season: a bento box. This is a Japanese-inspired selection, and you can choose from a long list what you want in your bento box. Visit the Ritz-Carlton Naples if you are in the area.

Naples Trail of Treasures On Tenth Street South, one block over from U.S. 41/Ninth Street (sort of opposite the Lemon Tree), you will find a fabulous group—twenty-four in all!—of thrift, resale, fabric, and antique shops, known as the Naples Trail of Treasures. First thing, obtain a Trail of Treasures brochure at any of the shops. My time was limited, and it was getting late, but had the shops been open at night, I would have gladly missed dinner.

Options Thrift Shoppe 968 Second Ave. N 239-434-7115

This fantastic shop is well organized and clean, and the staff is friendly. What a collection of furniture, clothing, decorative accessories, and brica-brac! Your purchases benefit the shelter for abused women and children. This is one of the best shops on the Trail of Treasures.

Encore 28 Tenth St. S 239-262-5558

Encore supports the David Lawrence Centers for mental health and substance abuse services.

LOVE at 2nd Site 100 Tenth St. N 239-659-5682 (LOV2)

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Featuring preloved furnishings and accessories and Joan Stewart rag rugs, this mini shop is charming. Donations benefit the Make-A-Wish Foundation.

Guadalupe Resale 121 Tenth St. S 239-261-2696

This shop benefits the Guadalupe Center of Immokalee.

Conservancy of Naples Upscale Resale Shoppe 764 Ninth St. N 239-263-0717 www.conservancy.org

This shop sells only furniture. Hours: Monday through Saturday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Sunday, 12 p.m. to 4 p.m.

Audry’s Attic 104 Tenth St. N 239-403-8322

This is another treasure spot.

Another’s Man Treasures 173 Tenth St. S 239-643-6331

This shop has lots of very eclectic items.

Goodwill 99 Ninth St. S 239-434-0347

This shop helps the handicapped with training, housing, and job placements.

All About Moving and More 997 2nd Ave. N 239-682-9099

This team can deliver any oversized treasures you find.

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There are many more places on the Trail of Treasures, so start early, wear comfortable shoes, and have a great time treasure hunting. Do not feel guilty about spending a little bit of your children’s inheritance. There are also shops for coffee and lunch along the way.

Clothes by Consignment 4596 N. Tamiami Trail 239-261-8630

This is an elegant and well-organized resale shop. When I was checking out with my find, I discovered that this shop was the first in the area— opening twenty-seven years ago circa 1983.

New to You Consignment 933 Creech Rd. 239-262-6869

This shop carries name brands and treasures. I called to check that this shop still exists, remembering that the cute owner and her husband were going to sell. They did, but it is still there. I had my sales slip, which only gave the number of the article I purchased, and for the life of me, I could not remember what it was. Lo and behold, the girl who answered was able to look it up based on the number on my slip. Was I impressed! She told me exactly which jacket I had brought. Good shop!

Classy Collections 4530 Tamiami Trail 239-262-6005

This is an extremely upscale and pricey resale boutique. When double-checking the above information, I found pages of listings for Naples resale shops. You might want to print out the pages and have them with you when you visit and the urge to treasure hunt comes over you.

Sandpiper Clothier 3639 N. Tamiami Trail (Park Shore Center) 239-434-8228 www.sandpiperclothiers.com

An large, attractive mix of clothing can be found at the upscale Sandpiper. It has been a while since I have been in this store, I often visit the

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one in Key Largo—but knowing the owner/buyer, the shop will not disappoint.

USEPPA ISLAND As the island’s ad states, “No Bridges. No Cars. No Crowds.” It is a pleasant drive from I-75 (get directions) to the marina, where you take the launch over to the island. There is parking at the marina and scheduled boats to the island. You can also visit Useppa with your own boat. Useppa Island is a private club with private homes. The hundred-yearold Collier Inn has been restored, and there are eleven immaculately decorated and appointed rooms for the discriminating guest. Immediately upon arrival on the island, you sigh and smile. It has a special island aura. For more information about this historic island, call 239-283-1061 or visit www.useppa.com. What to do: There are exceptional tarpon fishing packages. Call 888-7356335 or 239-283-1061. There is tennis, a heated swimming pool with a large deck, a hot tub, and a championship, international, six-wicket croquet court. There is also a nine-wicket court for the less experienced player. Birdwatchers will see a lot, especially the many pairs of ospreys. There are also trails for walking and many places just to sit and contemplate or read. You can start off the evening by having a beverage of your choice delivered to your room, then take a short walk to your dining venue, which you will find exceptional. Notable politicians, movie stars, writers, and barons of industry have visited Useppa. At one time the island was abandoned and used by the government as a base for the Bay of Pigs invasion. In 1976 Gar Beckstead purchased the island and started its restoration. His exceptional decorating style and culinary taste have made this a most special island.

PALM ISLAND

Palm Island Resort 7092 Placida Rd., Cape Haze 941-697-4800 or 800-824-5412 www.palmisland.com

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Palm Island is located in Cape Haze, north of Boca Grande and south of Englewood. To get to Palm Island, you take a mini ferry, with or without your car, that takes about twelve minutes from embarking to docking. You are on your way to a real island. No passports are needed, but you do feel as if you have traveled to a far-off oasis once you arrive. The ferry holds (I think) six cars and probably twenty free-standing people. I was driving off the ferry almost before I realized it was moving. How fortunate for both Palm and Useppa islands, as well as for all associates and visitors, that they are owned and operated by Gar and Dean Beckstead—two gentlemen with respect for the outdoors and nature, as well as taste, style, and the know-how to make these two island resorts so fantastic. Once you dock, park your car, and check in—all of these steps are in close proximity to each other—you will then be taken to your accommodations by golf cart. Crushed shells surface the roads. There are 154 resort villas (of one to three bedrooms) decorated in Old Florida–style decor but with all the modern-day amenities. The living and dining area opens onto an enclosed porch. These accommodations have full kitchens. Remember that you are on an island, and you must bring any supplies that you need—although there is the Rum Bay Store. The Rum Bay Restaurant is the restaurant, bar, and meeting spot. Delicious foods and a friendly, casual atmosphere prevail. One night I ordered from the restaurant, took my meal back to my room, and sat watching the ocean, the birds, and the approach of evening. Utopia! At the Coconut Cafe and Recreation Center, you can get hot dogs, pizza, subs, and ice cream. Recently available is a five-bedroom, five-bathroom house to rent—when you decide to bring the entire gang. Whether your accommodation overlooks the beach or is just close by, you hear the ocean’s music, see the dance of the sea birds, and are swathed in the sea’s breezes. The beach is fantastic—wide, long, beautiful, and peppered with an abundance of lovely shells, which make perfect souvenirs. There are five swimming pools and eleven tennis courts. You can bicycle, canoe, kayak, snorkel, or just do nothing. For a retreat, an escape, or whatever reason— whether you are alone or with the family or a special friend—Palm Island is idyllic for everyone and for all ages. The ferry takes you back to the mainland. I suggest getting directions before leaving the island. I was heading south and wanted to find I-75,

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which can be a bit confusing. I did find my way (okay, I had to ask at one point), but it was interesting seeing this part of Florida.

CABBAGE KEY

Cabbage Key Inn and Restaurant PO Box 200 239-283-2278 www.cabbagekey.com

Cabbage Key is accessible only by boat, seaplane, or helicopter. From Punta Gorda, Pine Island, and Captiva Island, regularly scheduled boats take you to the key. Realize that on Cabbage Key there is only one way to do things, and that is the Cabbage Key way. Don’t miss going, but know that this is a very popular place, so reserve a marina spot or inn accommodations early. Bring dollar bills (details follow), and bring a flashlight. If you are staying on the island and not going to the restaurant for all your meals, then bring your supplies as there is no general store. The Cabbage Key Inn and Restaurant was built in the 1930s by the family of Mary Roberts Rinehart, playwright and novelist. If you are not familiar with this ahead-of-her-times woman, then rectify that void as soon as possible. The old house has six air-conditioned rooms, each with its own style and bath; some have fireplaces. The rates are sensible. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and the food is as fresh and delicious as can be delivered to the island. Breads and pastries are made on the spot. Your eyes are not fooling you—yes, there are signed dollar bills stuck all over the walls and ceilings of the dining room and bar. The total is estimated to be about $65,000; add yours, and it goes up. Your dollar bill will be in good company with those of presidents, celebrities, moguls, and just us folk. How did this all start? A little-known, fun-loving bar room singer taped the first dollar bill on the piano and signed it Jimmy Buffett—and so it started. When Buffett sings about Cabbage Key in his hit song “Cheeseburger in Paradise,” little does anyone realize that over five hundred visitors come each day to little old Cabbage Key to see the place and enjoy a cheeseburger in paradise.

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On the island there is lots to do—like hiking or climbing the stairs of the sixty-foot wooden water tower and watching the sunset. One of my favorite activities is to get into a small boat (you can rent one with a beach mat and umbrella for the entire day for approximately $55) and go (in the small boat) over to the nearby Cayo Costa barrier island. I like go down the canal through the tunnel of mangroves, which then takes you to a fabulous, deserted beach that is about six miles long. What a way to spend the day! (I don’t know if overnights are permitted.) FYI: Mary Roberts Rinehart (1876–1958) authored more than fifty books, eight plays, and hundreds of short stories, poems, short articles, and travelogues. She wrote everything in longhand! She was married at nineteen to a doctor and raised three sons. Born left-handed—viewed in those days as unladylike—she had her left hand tied behind her in order to become “proper” and learn to write with her right hand. I somehow believe that if this switch had not been accomplished, this talented lady would still have achieved her many successes. She was ahead of her time. More famous than her British counterpart, Agatha Christie, Mary Roberts Rinehart actually first penned the phrase “The butler did it.” Her immediate family was lucky because it was she who got them through the Depression and its financial challenges. They moved to Washington, DC, when Dr. Rinehart became a consultant with the Veteran’s Bureau. One of her favorite places was Bar Harbor, Maine. Her house there, which she named Fairview, was beloved by all her family. Unfortunately, Fairview burned along with 250 other homes when a grass fire got out of control. After her husband’s death, Mary Roberts Rinehart moved to New York City, where she was prominent in the social world as well as the literary and theatrical realms. In her detective series, she never used a character more than once; she obviously thought that people in the lower social strata had more substance, but, to me, one of Mary Roberts Rinehart’s strongest suits was her early feminist themes. It seems that her husband resented his wife’s success and thought her writings not serious—even though she did pull the family through financial glitches. In her writings, she characterizes males as chauvinist, philandering, intolerant, and controlling—possibly reflecting her relationship with the doctor. Regardless, she was very close to her three boys.

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Florida: West Coast | 349 Mary Roberts Rinehart should be read by all modern women. Someday, when I am not aspiring to be a miniscule version of her, I will begin my trek through her literary legacy, starting with her Tish stories.

SARASOTA AND SURROUNDINGS Sarasota This major and thriving city has art from fine to fun, fashions for every pocketbook and dress size, and restaurants of all types. American, Italian, French, Oriental, fusion, eclectic: Whatever the palate craves you will find. My first visit to Sarasota was brief, and I stayed with friends. The lady of the house, my pal for years, gave me a tour of the city. All sorts of places were discovered. I did not have time to visit the John and Mable Ringling Museum, but I drove by and read about it and stopped in on a subsequent trip.

John and Mable Ringling Museum of Art 5401 Bay Shore Rd. 941-351-1660 www.ringling.org

P. T. Barnum and James Bailey teamed up in 1888 to form the “Greatest Show on Earth.” In 1906, Bailey’s unexpected death left the circus floundering. In 1907 in London, Barnum & Bailey Ltd. sold out to Ringling Brothers. This was a huge enterprise, and the two were run separately until 1919, when they combined to form the Ringling Brothers Barnum & Bailey Circus—and for years that is just what it was. This museum is a must-visit. It is definitely a great display of showmanship. John and Mable Ringling’s waterfront mansion, Cà d’Zan, is a museum with an impressive collection of Peter Paul Rubens and works by others. There’s so much to see. The rose garden is beautiful. The Ringling Museum of American Circus is fantastic, as is the largest miniature circus created by Howard Tibbals. It is totally awesome and inspiring. It would take pages to describe all you will see at the Ringling Museum, and the experience you will not forget.

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Sarasota, surrounded by thirty-five miles of beachfront, has lots of malls, golf courses, and museums. It is a big Florida city, so you will probably find just what you are looking for.

St. Armands Circle 300 Madison Dr. 941-388-1554 www.starmandscircleassoc.com

St. Armands Circle is an island shopping center of about 130 shops and restaurants. It’s also a good place to people watch. In 1893, Charles St. Amand was the first resident of the island, purchasing three tracts of land for $21.71 each, for a total of 131.89 acres. He worked the land and raised produce, which went to the mainland via boat. In later deeds, his name was misspelled, hence today’s “St. Armand” spelling. In 1917 John Ringling purchased the property with the intention of developing residential as well as commercial areas to be arranged in a circle. There were no bridges, so his paddle steamer, The Success, brought crews and materials. The curbs of the streets were rose colored. In 1925, the building of the causeway to join St. Armands Key to the mainland began. The circus elephants hauled the timbers for construction. A year later, the John Ringling Causeway and Ringling Estates development opened. Visionary entrepreneur John Ringling led the parade with great fanfare across the causeway as the circus band played from the middle of St. Armands Circle. The excitement and sale of properties were huge that first day, but then the Depression hit, and sales stopped. Now Sarasota is booming and blossoming.

Long Boat Key This island, surrounded by the Gulf of Mexico on the west and Sarasota Bay on the east, is, from what I discovered, attractive, popular, upscale, and quite populated. You access the key via bridges. It is close to Sarasota and therefore has city opportunities to enjoy. Note: It’s hard to believe, but as of this writing, the following beautiful property has closed its doors. For how long, nobody knows. I include this précis just for your information.

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The Colony Beach and Tennis Resort 1620 Gulf of Mexico Dr., Longboat Key 941-383-6464 www.colonybeachresort.com

For eight years, the Colony was acclaimed as the number one tennis resort in the nation by Tennis magazine. There are ten soft courts (two lighted) and eleven hard-surface courts, which are complimentary for resort guests. There are tennis programs, pros, and much more for all tennis aficionados, regardless of age or skill level. The beach is beautiful, as is the entire property. The shops are ultra and tempting. Tastebuds Gourmet Market & Wine Shop (941-383-5558) is a perfect place to get your sandwich or miscellaneous items. You can dine outdoors at the Monkey Room Patio and Bar, but the Colony Dining Room, which offers spectacular views of the Gulf of Mexico plus an award-winning menu, is not to be missed. I can attest to this as each item I tasted outdid the previous. It is open for lunch, dinner, and Sunday brunch. The accommodations are most attractive. My room was superb— clean and spacious with attractive decor. The headboard with laminated fabric was attractive and practical. There were three crisp sheets on the beds and excellent bedding. The swing arm lights at each side of the bed were the best. The bathroom was attractive with no horseshoe seat. The air-conditioning vent needed a deflector. My accommodations included a living room with bar and kitchen—fully equipped. There was a Murphy bed—so very smart—but I did not find a full-length mirror. The fuse panel should have an attractive cover for camouflage. These are minor flaws. The full-service spa is most attractive and has programs for all. The staff is attentive and friendly. Whether you are practicing your backstroke, watching a child learn the game of tennis, or participating in other Colony activities, this is a special place. The Colony Beach and Tennis Resort is a family affair. Dr. M. J. Klauber, known as “Murf,” took this property and made it what it is today. His philosophy that fitness leads to excellence in sports as well as life is never overlooked. Daughter Katie Moulton has taken over for Dr. Klauber and has been recognized as one of the top in her field. Son Tom owns Pattigeorge’s.

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Pattigeorge’s 4120 Gulf of Mexico Dr., Longboat Key 941-383-5711 www.pattigeorges.com

The food is well prepared and I enjoyed my meal. Son Michael runs Michael’s on East.

Michael’s on East 1212 East Ave, Sarasota 941-366-0007 www.michaelsoneast.com

This establishment has received a AAA Four Diamond Award. All reviews have been most complimentary. PS: It’s so sad to know that the Colony has closed. It is hard not to believe that there will be a future for the Colony.

Places to Stay

The Cypress 621 Gulfstream Ave. S, Sarasota 941-955-4683 www.cypressbb.com

This charming bed-and-breakfast in downtown Sarasota overlooks Sarasota Bay, and within its walls, you will find a perfect gem. With only five sleeping quarters, tastefully decorated with antiques and absolute appeal, you will enjoy every minute of your stay and probably wish you could stay longer. The Cypress is near everything, and your preferred sports can be arranged. Nina, Vick, and Robert are the hosts and orchestrators of this attractive oasis. They all escaped the North. In the evening, there are cocktails and hors d’oeuvres, and be sure to indulge in Robert’s Mango Fantango. Everyone meets and enjoys the exchange of stories. A British couple had been at the Cypress for more than thirty months—I am not sure if all in one stay. The closing statement from all, knowing this was my first visit, was “Wait till you have breakfast. It is fabulous.” They were so right. Breakfast on the

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cheerful porch was very delicious—and I am not a big breakfast person. How do glazed mango-pecan muffins sound? All three of your hosts are excellent self-taught gourmet chefs. The Cypress is for everyone, and pets are welcome, but you must arrange their reservation at the same time you make yours. Have a good time, and plan to visit this delightful bed-and-breakfast.

Hotel Ranola 118 Indian Pl. #6, Sarasota 866-951-0111 www.hotelranola.com

I was not quite sure what I would be writing about when I decided to stay at Hotel Ranola in the heart of downtown Sarasota. Parking in front, I still wasn’t quite sure. Originally built as an apartment building in 1926, it is indeed just a stone’s throw from many Sarasota attractions. Oh my, what a delightful surprise as I entered this now hip boutique hotel with nine rooms and one royal suite. I was shown to my room on the second floor. I thought I was looking at a page from a modern decorating magazine. It was plush, colorful, and subtly slick—you could immediately tell the decorator know what to do and did it well. The full kitchen was perfect, and the bed was fluffy and inviting. All the Internet necessities were in place, and there was a twenty-seven-inch wall-hung plasma TV. I took special notes on the room’s accoutrements. Make a reservation. You’ll be glad.

Ritz-Carlton Sarasota 1111 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Sarasota 941-309-2000 www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/Sarasota

Take all the ultrasuperlative adjectives and apply them to this beautiful property. It is indeed magnificent. The hand-carved stone fountain greets you. From the time you enter, you are enthralled. The five shades of marble comprising the intricately patterned floor shine, the crystal chandeliers sparkle, and the huge flower centerpiece is beautiful. The staff is knowledgeable, and the service perfect. Truly, it is palatial, in a most refined manner. The art collections are impressive. It is a Ritz, but one without a flaw that I could find.

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Accommodations are spacious with solid, quiet decor, and the gleaming white bathrooms are appointments perfect. The Ritz-Carlton Club Level offers a more private presentation of complimentary foods and beverages throughout the day. Dining venues are several. Vernona (941-309-2008) has a Mediterranean villa ambiance and features a delicious menu with a sophisticated emphasis on fresh, organic, locally grown produce. Vernona has been named the “best overall” restaurant in Florida by Florida International Magazine. Ca D’Zan Lounge is sophisticated and has music and dancing from Wednesday through Sunday. The Beach Club Grill offers simple yet stylish cuisine. The Golf Club Grille and Bayview Burger both offer more general fare. The Lobby Lounge serves cocktails as well as afternoon tea. Guests at the hotel can enjoy the white sand beach of the Members Beach Club overlooking the Gulf of Mexico, as well as the heated pool and Jacuzzi. Golf is available at the Members Golf Club fourteen miles away. The shops are elaborate, excellent, and extravagant. The spa is luxurious with the most special, relaxing rituals. The salon is also full-service. There are services for the Privileged Pup, including massage services. FYI: The hotel pet policy states that all pets must be carried through public areas and are not allowed in any food outlets. There is a twenty pound weight limit and a “$125 maintenance and restoration fee.”

The Ritz-Carlton Sarasota is exceptional in every way. It is easy to see why its awards are many.

Miscellaneous

Lido Grille 328 John Ringling Blvd., St. Armands Circle, Sarasota 941-388-0155

This impromptu stop proved very good, casual, and not expensive.

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Shopping

Designing Women Boutique 1226 N. Tamiami Trail, Ste. 101 941-366-5293

At this very upscale boutique of consignment apparel and home furnishings, items are sensibly priced and attractively presented. The shop’s mission is to help fund community arts.

Note: There are many consignment shops in the area. Seek and you will find and spend.

Treasure Chest 1426 Fruitville Rd. 941-953-7800

The store’s card reads, “Sarasota’s Finest Resale Shop.” It has a huge number of items: furniture, collectibles, antiques, art, jewelry, and more. Proceeds benefit the Safe Place and Rape Crisis Center.

FYI: You can usually obtain a copy of the brochure “Guide to Consignment Shops” Sarasota/Bradenton at a shop or at your hotel.

Sarasota Cay Club 7150 S. Tamiami Trail 941-355-2781

This property with a marina is full of potential. My one-night stay proved a bit of a sketchy experience. The area is a little scruffy. Supposedly major renovations are planned. I hope it all works. For now, just be aware.

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ST. PETERSBURG What an attractive area! It is known as the “City of the Arts,” an accurate label and quickly apparent as you visit the museums, art galleries, and such, particularly in the downtown area. I was in awe of the Salvador Dalí Museum (see below). Get a free Downtown St. Petersburg Guide & Map. Take a ride on the Looper, the downtown trolley that goes all around and lets you on and off at designated stops. It cost (then) twenty-five cents per person each time you board and approximately ten cents for seniors. Exact fare is appreciated. Tip: Take a ride on the Looper to get the lay of the land and make note of places you want to visit. Then go around again, getting off where you want.

St. Petersburg has the largest city marina in the United States, so needless to say there is a lot of sea to see. The Pier is a pleasure for shopping, eating, and seeing.

The Pier 800 Second Ave. NE 727-821-6443 www.stpetepier.com

There is also the Pier Aquarium (727-895-7437, ext. 209; www.pier aquarium.org), or take a trip on the Dolphin Queen.

Pier Dolphin Cruises 800 Second Ave. NE 727-647-1538 www.pierdolphincruises.net

I did not have time to explore the colorful, shop-filled streets that I saw from the Looper.

Renaissance Vinoy Resort and Golf Club 501 Fifth Ave. NE

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727-894-1000 www.vinoyrenaissanceresort.com

Whether you stay at or just visit this huge, historic pink hotel, it is definitely something to see and a very special property. As I arrived at the front of the Vinoy, the attendants, garbed most attractively in knickers and argyle socks, were most efficient. You could use the valet parking or park by yourself in the adjoining garage. Upon entering the lobby, you are impressed by the high, vaulted ceilings, the tile floors occasionally covered with an Oriental rug, and the glistening chandeliers. You sigh at its beauty. I liked the fact that the front desk, where you check in, was not too grandiose but, instead, rather modest. The year 1923 saw the first inklings of what was to come to pass. Aymer Vinoy Laughner built the hotel. In February 1925, construction began, and on New Year’s Eve, the hotel opened to the public. During World War II, like so many hotels, the Vinoy was occupied by the U.S. War Department from 1942 to 1944. It then returned to its original hotel status. In the 1970s, the suffering grand hotel closed its doors. The 1980s found it occupied by vagrants and also used as a practice field for SWAT teams. A plan to save the hotel was begun, in 1987 progress was made, and by 1990 restoration had begun. With $93 million in restorations, in 1992 the restored Vinoy Resort opened amid great celebration. Updates are continual. In 2002 $4 million was put into restoration of the rooms. The rooms today are nice. My room could have used a little fine tuning. Dining in Marchand’s Bar, the Vinoy’s signature restaurant, was most pleasant and delicious. For breakfast, I was convinced to have the excellent signature lobster quiche. There are several dining facilities on property: Fred’s, a steak house, Alfresco’s, and the Promenade Lounge and Coffee Bar. I ordered a club sandwich from room service, which was okay. Golf, tennis, and swimming, as well as the fitness center, spa, and marina, are all convenient. The gift shop was very nice, and the ladies’ room was attractive, in spite of the horseshoe toilet seats (though they did have paper seat covers). A favorite (for me) at the Vinoy is the great front porch where you can sit and think and dream. This 347-room property is impressive. Thank

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goodness it was saved and restored. The Vinoy is a prize and not to be missed.

Salvador Dalí Museum 1000 Third St. S 727-823-3767 www.salvadordalimuseum.org

This fantastic museum is totally Dalí. There are ninety-six oils, over one hundred watercolors and drawings, and more than thirteen hundred graphics, sculptures, objets d’art, and photographs. You will leave the museum not only mesmerized by Dalí but in total awe. It is interesting how this incredible collection found its home in St. Petersburg. Reynolds and Eleanor R. Morse from Cleveland, Ohio, had, from the time they were married, a strong friendship with Dalí and his wife, Gala. Over the years, their collection grew, and finally a museum was built near Morse’s business, Injection Molders Supply Company. Before long, a larger facility was needed. It is hard to believe that this project was not grabbed up by an existing museum. In 1980 a Wall Street Journal headline read, “Art World Dilly Dallies over Dalís.” An astute St. Petersburg attorney, James Martin, learned of the situation and rallied a group. The rest, as they say, is history. I am sure excuses were abundant from those who missed this unbelievable opportunity to have the collection on their turf. They say that with most great art, the more you look, the more you see. This is an understatement with Dalí. Take your time, and learn to see the many aspects of each painting. It sometimes takes a while. Regardless of how much time you have, do not miss seeing this extraordinary museum. Admission is approximately $17 for adults. You will want to return many times and then some more. Driving Diva Sidebar: In my college studio-art class in New York City, a small man with a long, thin moustache and walking stick (used more as a dramatic prop) would visit our class. He was a friend of the art teacher. In truth, he was fascinated by one of the students—a tall, flaming-red-haired woman. Yes, I knew his name, but lots of artists visited our class. Oh my, the man himself was right there: Dalí!

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Dickens House B&B 335 Eighth Ave. NE 727-822-8622 www.dickenshouse.com

This delightful and comfortable Arts and Crafts home was built in 1912 by early settlers in the area, Henry and Sadie Dickens. It was near the developing downtown area but also in the attractive residential section. This residential area is now St. Petersburg’s historic district, and it is convenient to downtown and interesting parts of town. In 1995, muralist Ed Caldwell purchased the Dickens House. His creative talents are evident, although it took him five years to bring to fruition the restoration of the house. It is now an unostentatious, comfortable bed-and-breakfast with an absolutely genuine friendliness that the owner ensures everyone experiences. The open Dickens House kitchen is the hub. Here Ed prepares a large and delicious breakfast. Guests sit around a long table and chat. If you choose, you can have your breakfast on the veranda. There are five suites and rooms, three on the second floor and two on the third. I saw several rooms. Mine was the Orange Blossom Room on the third floor. Cozy and about the size of an orange blossom, it was just right. Even though it was tiny, I could not have enjoyed it more, and the tiny bath with whirlpool tub was comfortable. Prices start at around $129 per night. You will like your Dickens House visit. Make reservations as soon as possible.

ARCADIA (POPULATION APPROXIMATELY 6,900) In the two years since I first discovered Arcadia, so much has changed. Whoa! It is, shall we say, being rediscovered and growing. Listed among the one hundred best small towns in America, it is a short distance from Sarasota and St. Petersburg and two hours plus from West Palm Beach. During my last trip, I saw a Walmart, Walgreens, and Dollar Tree, among other stores in the new shopping area.

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The road to Palm Beach County bisected citrus groves, sod farms, a few homes, and some prison confines, and it was obvious development had begun. Gated communities are being built, and the area is blossoming. I mention Arcadia to people, and I am surprised by how many were there during Word War II. In 1905 a fire destroyed the town, which had no working water system or fire department. There was no loss of life, but damages were estimated at $250,000 (in 1905 dollars!). From 1917 to 1922, Arcadia was home to Carlstgrom Field, a grass field used for pilot training. In 1941 the site became an airfield for flight training operated by what became the Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University. It closed in 1945.The university is now located in Daytona. Today the local economy is primarily agricultural. There is a surge in home development. The historic district is the hub of Arcadia. Approximate three blocks on both sides of are filled with antique shops. You are bound to find a treasure, but it will take a bit of looking—I am sure there is one there. Four of the shops I went into, and I do plan to go back!

Treasure Alley 215 W. Oak St. 863-993-1838 www.treasurealleyarcadia.com

Antiques on Oak 33 W. Oak St. 863-494-2038

Cory’s Antiques 29 W. Oak St. 863-494-5959

Antiques & Books 23 E. Oak St. 863-491-0250

On the fourth Saturday of every month, there is the Arcadia Antique Fair (www.arcadiaflantiques.com). Another Arcadia happening is the Arcadia All-Florida Championship Rodeo.

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Arcadia All-Florida Championship Rodeo 124 Heard St. 863-494-2014 www.arcadiarodeo.com

In May there is the annual Watermelon Festival. The historic Peace River is popular for fishing, swimming, canoeing, fossil hunting, and kayaking.

Brenda Lee’s Deli Café 26 W. Oak St. 863-494-3898

On the menu under the title is, “Blees Inc. Brenda Strickland—President.” Here are the facts: The owner is Brenda Lee Strickland. She is not the country singer Brenda Lee, although items from the singer are included in the deli’s decor. Obviously there are two creative and talented Brenda Lees. How many restaurants have you been to that have the menu taped to a Brenda Lee 78 rpm record? You do know the name Brenda Lee? If you know country music, you know this talented, tiny, four-foot, ten-inch Georgia native is a family woman with her original husband, two daughters, and now grandchildren. She has been inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and the Country Music Hall of Fame. We all know her songs and what an influence she has been in the music world. Here, I discovered two of my very favorite deli sandwiches: #2 Cuban or #7 Hometown Folk, grilled. All sandwiches are served with your choice of potato chips or potato salad, and, of course, there are soups, salads, pie, tea, coffee, soft drinks, and selections for children. Nothing on the menu costs much over $5, and the atmosphere is aromatic deli and full of smiles. I will drive out of my way, and so should you, to enjoy Brenda Lee’s Deli Café.

Arcadia Tea Room 117 W. Oak St. 863-494-2424

I have not had a chance to eat here as each time I’ve tried, it has been too crowded—which is a good sign.

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Historic Parker House B&B 427 W. Hickory St. 863-494-1060 www.historicparkerhouse.com

This historic house was built by cattle baron Jasper Parker in the late 1890s. The present owners, Kay and Leonard Higley, have kept as well as recaptured the elegance of the early days with authentic antique furnishings and decor. There are five guest rooms, each with private bath, cable TV, and telephone. On the big veranda, you can sit and enjoy the one-hundred-year-old oak trees and the sights around. There is off-street parking. Children over ten are welcome. All guest rooms are on the second floor. I have not been to the Parker House, but from all I hear, it must be most enjoyable. I include it so that if you are in the area, you know about it and can enjoy. I will look forward to doing likewise. If you cross over the railroad tracks, you enter the commercial part of Arcadia. You are on Route 70, which is a good road but has only two lanes. There are trucks, so pay careful attention. As a state trooper reminded me as we stood in line at Brenda Lee’s, gas up, as there are long stretches with nada! The first “town” with more than a gas station is Okeechobee, which had a CVS and Walgreens, a bank, a Century 21, and restaurants of the chain variety. Route 70 at Okeechobee goes north to Fort Pierce. When I saw a sign saying seventy-four miles to West Palm Beach, I realized that, due to its proximity, this is indeed a growing area. Also, the new highways give you a clue as well. At the post office in Canal Point, I mailed letters and discovered that there are new superhighways just ahead: 441 South, then 98 East and 80 East. FYI: Canal Point in 2000 had a population of 525. From my passing observation, I don’t think this stat will hold.

Once on the new roads, before you know it you are in busy civilization, and the leisurely driving tempo and bucolic scenery are things of the past.

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The many-facetted state of Florida is big, long, and rather wide with a real mix of qualities. It’s key ingredients are the weather and its waters. The Florida sun can be warm, hot, soothing, or burning. Above all, it should always be respected. It is wonderfully powerful. Florida is one of a kind.

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ALABAMA

his pleasant southern state has many things to offer. Getting to Birmingham from Atlanta I-20 was easy. Then, U.S. 78, a decent stretch of road, leads you out of Birmingham to Jasper (population thirteen thousand), where I discovered a shopping mecca, Bud’s Discount Center. The car went on automatic pilot, and within a few minutes I found myself in a building the size of an airplane hanger. I found a little bit of everything there, but the big bag of treasures I purchased probably cost all of $25. (As of this writing, I cannot find this mecca online, but since it is a true road happening, I thought I’d relate the experience.) Back to the serious stuff! On my way to Vincent, Alabama, an easy drive off U.S. 20, I took the Pell City Exit and headed south on Highway 231. I had stopped to get gas when I saw . . . a mirage? No! There in front of me was a small strip mall with a store that jogged my memory: Shoe Department.

T

Shoe Department 81 Vaughan Ln., Pell City 205-338-0097 www.shoedept.com

I could not believe it. Shoe Department had a store near where I used to live, and I had bought more pairs than I care to count there. Which do you think I did first, pumped gas or looked at shoes? Before you could say “high-heel pumps,” I was scrutinizing the stock available in a size 364

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8.5 or 9. In a relatively short time, I found myself at the checkout with five unbelievable selections that were all on sale! I had hardly begun my six-thousand-mile odyssey and here I already had five super new pairs of shoes. Could this be a hint of things to come? I pumped the gas with alacrity and a smile. Shoes have special powers. After a short drive in a very bucolic setting, I was nearing my destination, which I had heard so much about.

Blue Spring Manor 2870 Highway 83, Vincent 205-672-9955 www.bluespringmanor.com

What a welcoming place! Right away, I was warmly greeted by Doris Harris; she and her husband, Ray, are the innkeepers. You could quickly tell she enjoyed what she did, and I knew I was in for a delightful, if brief, stay. The large main room was comfortably appointed and led out to a back porch surrounded by flowers. In the backyard were a pool and hot tub. The open kitchen was to the right of the main room, and there I beheld huge, bright-red tomatoes fresh from the garden. You knew immediately that they would not taste like the cardboard balls you buy in desperation at the grocery store. The kitchen had various other fresh produce as well as a big basket of breads. The aromas portended a delicious meal to come. After some chatter and viewing the downstairs, Doris showed me upstairs to my room, the Kilimanjaro Suite. My hostess told me a bit of the manor’s history, pointing out that the artwork was local and for sale and that each room had a different theme. Befitting its name, my room was Africa themed, nicely appointed, and not overdone. The creative colors all blended perfectly. The bathroom was very nice, with a sauna and a toilet closet for privacy with a basket of magazines. The towels were large, and the miscellaneous amenities useful. It was perfect. The view from my room was of the backyard, swimming pool, and hot tub. Blue Spring Manor has four guest rooms and four suites complete with telephone, cable TV and VCR, and whirlpool tubs. A licensed massage therapist with a variety of spa skills is also available. I did not feel as if I was in someone’s home at all—it was more like a comfortable and friendly country manor.

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Dinner was delicious, and the guests were friendly and talkative. Each had a different reason for staying at Blue Spring Manor: a getaway for a mother and daughter; a stop for a family on its way home from a summer vacation; a Blue Spring Manor weekend for a couple from Birmingham. After dinner I sat on the porch and enjoyed the fresh flowers and clear air. I have learned that a koi pond has been added. Doris took my breakfast order just before I returned to my room. Sleep came quickly in that most comfortable setting. Breakfast was another delicious fare. It had been a delightful stay. I envy those who live near Vincent and Blue Spring Manor and can often frequent this charming oasis. Ray gave me direct, native-savvy directions that took me through beautiful countryside and onto the interstate.

MOBILE (POPULATION APPROXIMATELY 200,000) Although I’m not a history buff, there is real history in the air in Mobile. You know that if the huge, grand, and very old live oaks lining many of the streets could talk, they would have a wealth of tales to share. Exploring Mobile is fairly easy, and I anticipate going back and really seeing this most titillating city. Finding my next destination, the Kate Shepard House, was not difficult. The directions they provided were excellent.

Kate Shepard House (B&B) 1552 Monterey Place 251-479-7048 www.kateshepardhouse.com

This big, impressive Victorian home, built in 1897 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places, sits on Monterey Place in the historic district. As you go into the side parking area, its impressive facade immediately gives you the feeling that you might be stepping back in time. Note: The correct pronunciation of Mobile is “MO-beeel” as in “automobile.”

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Hundred-year-old magnolia trees and the house’s big front porch add to the ambiance. Upon entering, you do step back into a different era as you find yourself viewing original mantles, pristine hardwood floors, and stained glass windows. Owner Wendy James greeted me, and we immediately felt a special rapport. She and her husband purchased the property a few years ago. A vivacious hostess, Wendy is knowledgeable about the area and makes you feel immediately at home. Kate Shepard used the grand structure, originally built by her father, C. M. Shepherd, as a private boarding and day school for children of prominent Mobile families. Today, the bed-and-breakfast acknowledges this legacy with memorabilia from the school days of yesteryear. Other historic items on display in the house—the Jameses have preserved them as they are treasures—reveal a lot about Mobile history. There are two main guest rooms in this Victorian bed-and-breakfast. Isabelle’s Room was my oasis: large, well furnished, and cozy. The bed was comfy with crisp linens, and the bathroom was well appointed. While driving around, viewing and discovering, I decided to have an early dinner at a spot that Wendy had enthusiastically recommended.

Cousin Vinny’s 351 George St. 251-694-0606

This restaurant was casually attractive, with a delicious, sensibly priced menu. Appetizers generally cost $3.95 to $5.95; salads, $5.95 to $8.95; eight-inch sandwiches on homemade baguette, $6.50 to $7.50; calzones and strombolis, $8.95; and pizzas: $8.95 to $16.95. I had a delicious small pepperoni pizza ($8.95). An upscale version on the same site is Guido’s. Note: Alas, the above two have been sold. I was informed that the original Cousin Vinny’s and Guido’s are open and thriving in Daphne, Alabama, fifteen miles from the ones I visited.

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OHIO

hio is one of those states that you know is there, and you know bits and pieces about it—but that’s about all. Not until I visited did I discover how big a state it is and how beautiful it can be on Lake Erie and along the Ohio River. Many small and quaint towns are delights to tour.

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MARIETTA (POPULATION APPROXIMATELY 15,000) Located on the Ohio River, this charming town is clean, quiet, and attractive with an ambiance that only a river town can achieve.

Lafayette Hotel 101 Front St. 740-373-5522 www.lafayettehotel.com

This small, triangular property opened in 1911 and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The decor includes many antiques, but few are more impressive than the eleven-foot pilot wheel from the steamboat J. D. Ayres, which is featured in the lobby. It is one of the very few of its size in existence today. Also to be observed are the two benchmarks that indicate the water levels in the hotel during the floods of 1936 368

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and 1937. The hotel also endured floods in 2004 and 2005. The rooms are Victorian in decor and comfortable in size. The Gun Room Restaurant (800-331-9336), known for its fine menu, is equally famous for a long rifle collection displayed on the walls. These handcrafted rifles date back to 1880. The provenance of each is stated. Other nautical memorabilia are on display. An original call-bell system is displayed as you enter the hotel. Removed from another Marietta property, it certainly warrants being on display. The bell system informed the maid of what room needed her attention by ringing the individual room number. I adore this type of item and only wish it could talk. I thoroughly enjoyed walking Marietta’s clean, quiet streets and exploring the antique shops. These shopkeepers seem glad to see you whether you buy something or not. The Delta Queen, American Queen, and Mississippi Queen riverboats all stop in Marietta. The dock is but a stone’s throw from the hotel.

CINCINNATI Cincinnati is an interesting river town with a lot to see and do, although my experiences have been limited to the downtown area.

Cincinnatian Hotel 601 Vine St. 513-381-3000 www.cincinnatianhotel.com

With an unpretentious though well-attended entrance on Vine Street, this hotel is said to be the “Best in Cincinnati.” I saw perfection, graciousness, and elegance on every level. Check-in was friendly and efficient. The rooms are a nice size and very comfortable. When built in 1882, it was called the Palace Hotel and had three hundred guest rooms with shared bathrooms at either end of each corridor. With elevators, incandescent lighting, a hitching post outside, and at a convenient location, the Palace Hotel was the finest in the city. In 1987, a $25 million renovation reduced the accommodations to 146, expanded the plumbing, and refurbished all

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the rooms. The old-world charms and architectural details were maintained. Attention to detail is pervasive. The cords from lamps are covered in a fabric and do not hang loose. The bedding is most comfortable. Tip: The air vent over the bed (in my room) needed a diffuser. The attractive, large, and marble-slick bathroom needed rugs with nonslip backing. Regardless of these small suggestions, this property is excellent, as well as elegant, special, and safe.

The Palace Restaurant is superb. The maître d’ leaves nothing unattended. As you enter, a side table presents two beautiful mahogany trays, one with a collection of perfectly displayed reading glasses (if you forget yours) and the other a collection of shawls (in case you feel chilly). What thoughtful extras! You do not feel crowded in this beautiful dining room. The tables are well placed, and the settings are correct, as is the service. The menu selections are excellent. The breads arrived at the table truly hot. It is not hard to overindulge on these hot morsels. The presentations for every course were exceptional. One of the delicious entrées I enjoyed included asparagus served in a grid formation. Here’s to creative presentations. The sorbet is served in a hibiscus-shaped glass—very attractive. Your dining experience at the Palace Restaurant will be memorable, be it for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or just dessert. The Cricket Lounge is modern in design and decor. The eight-story atrium—not what I expected to see in this old-world building—was very refreshing. Lunch consists of light-fare selections and is sensibly priced. The appetizer menu is one of the best. There is harp music in the afternoons; in the evenings there is piano, and on the weekends a jazz trio performs. This is a delightful and casual oasis. Traditional tea is served in the Cricket Lounge in December. This is a most refined way to end a hectic holiday day. Even if you do not spend the night at this elegant destination, you must see it and enjoy a meal or tea. The Cincinnatian has been awarded Mobil Four Star and AAA Four Diamond awards. Perhaps the prime explana-

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tion for the hotel’s achievements and attention to the needs and wishes of women is that its general manager is a woman, and she does an exceptional job. Applause to Denise Vandersall, who definitely deserves many accolades for being at helm of this beautiful property.

Hilton Cincinnati Netherland Plaza (formerly the Omni Netherland Plaza Hotel) 35 W. Fifth St. 513-421-9100 www.cincinnatihilton.com

Located in downtown Cincinnati, this is an exceptional example of French art deco. The decorative materials are a mix of rosewood, nickel, silver, marble, and brass. Extremely talented artisans created this powerful and unquestionably admirable display. The more you look, the more you see, no matter where you are in this magnificent art deco building. The original lobby space is now the residence for Orchids at Palm Court, an award-winning fine-dining venue. The Grille at Palm Court is a casual spot for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The Bar at Palm Court offers a Sunday brunch, and the PC Express (Palm Court Express) is located near the registration desk for express items and service. The room I stayed in and the others that I saw were comfortable and well appointed but not colorful. The bedding is layered and plush. There have been major upgrades since Hilton has taken the helm. For the right price, one can stay at the Belvedere Club, which is the club floor and also open to Hilton Gold and Diamond members. The club floor has several complimentary perks. Of course, there is a health and fitness center on-site for all guests. The hotel itself is a part of Carew Tower, the “city within a city.” Here you will find shops, department stores, restaurants, and parking. Interestingly, this concept preceded Rockefeller Plaza in New York by four years. Walking around downtown Cincinnati is enjoyable, and there are plenty of art galleries and shops to see, plus many of the standards.

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CLEVELAND Many interstates lead to Cleveland, including I-77, I-71, and I-90. It is not hard getting to downtown or in and out of the city—just get directions from a knowledgeable person. Cleveland is enjoying a renaissance, albeit on sort of a roller coaster. It just hasn’t really gotten there yet. It has much to offer, and its downtown is pleasant. But as with any major city, one should always inquire about safe places to explore. The new ballpark, Jacobs Field, has done a lot to contribute to the revival of downtown and restore some civic pride. But if you are going to be in town and wish to go to a Cleveland Indians game, you had best get your tickets ahead of time. FYI: The names Tower City and Terminal Tower confuse me. Tower City is the entire mall area. Terminal Tower houses the offices and has the observation deck.

Renaissance Cleveland Hotel 24 Public Square 216-696-5600

This hotel was built in 1918. The style, interior details, and architectural features reveal the undeniable craftsmanship put into this big edifice. The first time I stayed at this hotel, it was under another company’s aegis, and it was still more 1918 than twenty-first century. I was on my first book promotion, excited but hesitant and a novice. I was alone, and the hotel seemed so very big. There was no hairdryer, but one was delivered promptly. The halls were dark, but all was clean and the staff helpful. Today, the hotel is impressive and the magnificent original features remain but have been spruced up. My recent stay showed a beautiful renaissance to the Renaissance Cleveland Hotel. The lobby and check-in desk are upstairs from the ground level. Immediately you see the splendor of years past. The marble, the signature fountain, and the arched windows all welcome you. The hotel is comfortable, and the rooms are attractive. It is a favorite hotel for the business traveler and all other visitors to Cleveland. Tower City and the hotel are connected.

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Ritz-Carlton Cleveland 1515 W. Third St. 216-623-1300 www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/Cleveland

Located in Terminal Tower, this beautiful Ritz, with all the amenities, is accessible by taking an elevator to the main level of the hotel. As I only visited and did not stay on property, I can only comment from observations. What I viewed was most attractive. Their restaurant, Muse (216-902-5255), is on the sixth floor. The menu combines passion, innovation, and fresh products with each choice being an ultimate. Muse is open for all three meals. The prices are sensible. Also on the sixth floor is the Lobby Lounge on 6. On weekends tea is served. Reservations are required. This is the place for happy hour and light fare. This lounge is also home to the Martini Hall of Fame and Rocktails, Cleveland’s most unique musical drinks, inspired by songs from each of the years the hotel has been open. This is a Ritz Hotel; therefore, you know the ultimate in service is achieved. There is a lot to see and do in Cleveland.

Cleveland Museum of Art 11150 East Blvd. 216-421-7350 www.clevelandart.org

Western Reserve Historical Society 10825 East Blvd. 216-721-5722 www.wrhs.org

Rock and Roll Hall of Fame 1100 Rock and Roll Blvd. 216-781-7625 (ROCK) www.rockhall.com Driving Diva Tip: The roads leaving Cleveland are a little confusing. Note that the interstate west from Cleveland has two numbers, I-80 (coming in from the southeast) and I-90 (coming in from the north).

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LIMA During one of my adventures along I-75 through Ohio, I came across the United States Plastic Corporation in Lima. The company boasts “the Worlds Largest Assortments of Plastics.” What a find! I bought plastic items in all shapes and sizes and not for very much money. Empty or filled, they make ideal presents.

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MICHIGAN

M

ichigan is a big, beautiful state with good roads and an extremely diverse economic and social population.

DETROIT Detroit is trying to experience a much-needed renaissance on every possible level. It hasn’t been accomplished yet, so women traveling alone should be very careful. Everyone needs to be alert and cautious. Be sure to have good directions to your destination, since roads and streets are not particularly well marked, and it is easy to end up in an unsafe neighborhood. I did, and it was definitely not comfortable.

Greektown This area is worth visiting for the ethnic foods and ambiance. There are many restaurants on Monroe Street.

Fishbone 400 Monroe St. 313-965-4600 www.fishbonesusa.com 375

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Mosaic 501 Monroe St. 313-962-9366 www.mosaic-detroit.com

Pegasus 558 Monroe St. 313-964-6800 www.pegasustavernas.com

Pappy’s 517 Monroe St. 313-983-4000

Atheneum Suite Hotel 1000 Brush St. 313-962-2323 www.atheneumsuites.com

Pronounced “ath-a-nay-um,” which is Greek for “gathering place,” this most attractive AAA Four Diamond hotel is right in the heart of Greektown. The lobby is outstanding, with its marble and bold decor. There are 174 rooms. I felt safe and comfortable. My room, called the Premium Suite, was spacious and contained an open Jacuzzi that overlooked the sunken bedroom. (That was a first!) The hotel has had a total, multi-million-dollar overhaul. I found the Atheneum most accommodating, and there is a shuttle to Greektown. Fishbone is a popular restaurant that connects directly to the hotel. The most popular items are the Cajun selections. The Greektown Casino is adjacent.

Greektown Casino 555 E. Lafayette Blvd. 888-771-4386 www.greektowncasino.com

Good Luck!

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Omni Detroit Hotel River Place 1000 River Pl. 313-259-9500 www.omnihotels.com

The hotel was sold and has now reopened. Here is my review when I visited, and I am certain only improvements have been made. It is a delightful, beautiful boutique hotel! I was absolutely surprised when I arrived and saw this charming property. There are only 108 rooms in this oasis on Detroit’s historic waterfront. I found the property perfect and serendipitous. It was not difficult to find, once I had very explicit directions. Once there, leave your car and enjoy the hotel’s complimentary limo service to downtown Detroit. The rooms are attractive and homelike. There is a heated indoor swimming pool and health club. Do not overlook this property.

DEARBORN Dearborn is a pleasant city and boasts the world headquarters of the Ford Motor Company and General Motors. The complexes of these behemoth corporations dominate the skyline. I have visited both corporations, and indeed they are impressive. Whether so many people need to be on staff, I query. And do there need to be so many (same staff) daily meetings? The U.S. automobile industries are paramount to our economy. I am happy to have worked with both and have been impressed. I look forward to the experiences again.

Henry Ford Estate 4901 Evergreen Rd. 313-593-5590 www.henryfordestate.org

The Ford Museum is now closed, and transfer of ownership will soon be announced. My comments about this charming property follow so you too can have a feel for the Ford family lifestyle. The museum is impressive but not flamboyant. Each room is sensible and livable. I quote Mrs. Ford as her statement was so like one my mother

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would make: “I never object when my husband puts his feet on a fine chair or table and scratches it. . . . Our home is not a showplace, but a place to live in and enjoy.” Both Henry Ford and my father were inventors. My father was very principled, exceptionally creative, hard working to the max, and devoted to his family. Inventors are extremely interesting. The presentation and introduction to Ford and his family are interesting. Fair Lane, as the Ford estate was named, is impressive but not ostentatious. The four thousand books in the library were primarily chosen for appearance. Mr. and Mrs. Ford often ate at a small table in the alcove of the dining room and not at the big table. Ford was a proponent of healthy foods and an original experimenter with soybeans.

Hyatt 600 Town Center Dr. 313-593-1234 www.dearborn.hyatt.com

I found this impressive 772-room commercial property friendly and very comfortable, in spite of its size. The staff welcomes all, but I was impressed with the attention given to a female traveling alone and to safety concerns. Parking is very convenient, located on the property in the adjacent lot. In 2001, there was a $25 million upgrade, making the style of the property very contemporary with clean lines and granite appointments. More upgrades have continued, including the addition of five glass elevators, which are obvious focal points and something a little different and to be enjoyed. Accommodations are attractive. The rooftop bar is now for private functions. Giulio and Sons is the restaurant. This award-winning property is commercial, correct, and comfortable. Fairlane Town Center is across from the Hyatt. How very convenient!

Fairlane Town Center 18900 Michigan Ave. 800-992-9500 www.shopfairlane.com

This tony shopping complex has a lot of my favorite places. When I was last shopping at Fairlane, at the top of my list was Off Fifth, the outlet for discounted Saks Fifth Avenue merchandise. DSW has been added,

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which is a favorite. This shopping complex is excellent to escape to after a tedious day of meetings or sightseeing.

GRAND RAPIDS Grand Rapids is an easy drive from Chicago via I-94 to Benton Harbor. You will be following the Lake Michigan coastline through some absolutely picturesque small towns with quaint stores and attractive antique shops. In spring and summer, flowers are bright and abundant. People are friendly, and everything is very clean. At Benton Harbor, I-96 leaves the coast and takes you directly into Grand Rapids. The city’s large size was a surprise for me. The roads are well marked and converge on downtown.

Amway Grand Plaza Hotel 187 Monroe NW 616-774-2000 www.amwaygrand.com

This large property of over six hundred rooms is attractive and people friendly. The decorating style is North Michigan—by which I mean strong and bold, with no ruffles or frills. There is impressive artwork with one main theme being “America at Work.” There are seven restaurants, including the AAA Five Diamond 1913 Room, considered the crown jewel. The Grill at 1913 is casual, and the prices sensible. Cygnus 27 is contemporary with sensible prices and available for private parties. Cornucopia is a deli, again with sensible pricing. GP Sports and Bentham’s are also for your choice. There are several shops with excellent selections. There is much to keep one occupied in the hotel and, of course, while discovering Grand Rapids.

MACKINAW CITY AND MACKINAC ISLAND From the west coast of Michigan, I-196 takes you north to where you can get on I-75 and proceed directly to Mackinaw City. From the east coast of

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Lake Michigan, I-75 goes straight up to Mackinaw City. If you are ready for an unbelievably special experience, then continue onward. In Mackinaw City you leave your car and board the ferry to Mackinac Island, where cars are not permitted. The twenty-minute ferry to the island is worth every penny. The scenery is beautiful and the ride truly puts you in the mood for the exceptional experience you are about to enjoy. There is no question that Mackinac Island is a must-do in one’s lifetime, even if just for a day trip.

Grand Hotel 286 Grand Ave. 800-334-7263 www.grandhotel.com

“The” does not precede “Grand Hotel.” Few places are as unique, beautiful, romantic, soothing, and hypnotic as this most special island property. The Musser family created this magnificent hotel and has kept and maintained it for three generations. Thank you! You have a gem. Note to All: Read about the building of Grand Hotel. It is mind-boggling, and the end result is spectacular.

As you approach the island, you view the massive white structure up on the bluff. There is no doubt that it is grand. The rocking chairs lining the enormous porch, the abundant, vibrant, bright-red geraniums, the billowing American flags, the carriages, and the clomping sounds of horses’ hooves all blend to create a magical experience. (And that is almost an understatement!) Once the ferry docks, you are greeted by Grand Hotel staff and horsedrawn carriages that will take you to the hotel. Everything has a beautiful crispness and sparkle. Check-in is efficient and friendly. The 385 rooms are exquisite, and no two are the same. Carlton Varney, interior designer extraordinaire, has used his exceptional creative talents to the max, but not without preserving historic themes. Many of the rooms are named. Six suites bear the names of the U.S. first ladies who helped decorate them. Breakfast and a five-course dinner are included with your night’s stay.

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Children under eleven years old stay and dine free. This is a wonderful family spot and, plain and simply, a superb destination for all. Tipping is not permitted at Grand Hotel, but an additional gratuity is applied to your daily rate. You are expected to dress properly and that (definitely) includes “dressing” for dinner. In the Main Dining Room, gentlemen must wear a coat and tie, and ladies must wear dresses or appropriate pantsuits. This wonderful tradition has survived (thank goodness) our inexcusable lapse into informality. If you are dining alone, I recommend a window table, where you can watch people strolling on the porch or just become enthralled by the scenery—outside and in. Guests can now choose other dining locations, if the five-course Main Dining Room dinner is not desired. The dining staff is most attentive. I have never had an off meal at Grand Hotel’s Salle à Manger. Your grand experience is not complete until you have enjoyed a Grand Pecan Ball. In 2009 over sixty-five thousand Grand Pecan Balls were served. Conceived in 1948, the pecan ball used to be served in a plain glass dish. In the 1960s Dan Musser decided a more distinctive vessel was needed for the hotel’s signature dessert. The pewter pickle dish was chosen (yes, that is the name) as it kept the dessert colder and was more durable. This delicious dessert could be served in a plastic dish (a hyperbole) and still be delicious. At the beginning of each season, the fudge is checked and tweaked by the Musser family and staff to be sure the quality and original taste are maintained. Speaking of decadent delights, Grand Hotel’s fudge is unbelievably scrumptious. Because the hotel is closed for a few of the cold months (from the end of October through the end of April), its owners have the luxury of constantly upgrading, allowing them to maintain perfection. And maintained and upgraded this establishment is. There have been upgrades at the Old French Outpost, now called the Gate House, a restaurant and bar with music. Other places to dine include • The Jockey Club: This venue is casual both foodwise and attirewise. • Woods: Under the aegis of the hotel, it is just a short carriage ride away. This restaurant was originally part of the Stonecliffe Mansion. Its ambiance, style, and decor are Bavarian.

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• Bobby’s Bar is at Woods. It is next to the original duckpin bowling alley. This is the original duckpin bowling alley. Imagine, a bowling alley in a mansion! It is a delight to dine here, and the experience should not be missed. FYI: Bobby is the name of one of the Mussers’ dogs. Decor is appropriate.

• Carleton’s Tea Store: The perfect place for lunch, Carleton’s serves homemade soups, sandwiches, salads, and delicious desserts. You can also stock up on Grand Hotel’s fudge, plus cookbooks, teas, and coffees.

Activities Golf, tennis, horseback riding, and cycling are all available. Swimming in the heated, five-hundred-thousand-gallon Esther Williams Swimming Pool should not be overlooked. Of course, there are carriage tours and a tour of Fort Mackinac. Even if you cannot spend a night at Grand Hotel, you can enjoy a tour for a minimal charge or indulge in afternoon tea, which is presented and served to perfection. Numerous movie stars have been to Grand Hotel, and the movie Somewhere in Time was filmed on property. If you are part of the Somewhere in Time cult, be sure to try to attend the “Somewhere in Time Weekend.” There are many special weekends. Here are just a few: Music Festival, Fudge Festival, Hickory Stick Golf Tournament, Lazy Day Jazz Weekend, Carlton Varney’s Antique & Design Festival, Girlfriends’ Getaway Weekend, Murder Mystery Weekend, and Ballroom Dance Weekend. The history of the hotel’s construction is truly mind-boggling and will leave you in awe. Take the hotel tour given by concierge and hotel historian Bob Tagatz, who not only is an authority on the subject but brings the history alive with every syllable. Sadie, a Grand Addendum: The Mussers have been breeding and showing terriers since the 1960s. For this addendum we applaud CH Roundtown Mercedes of Maryscot, a Scottish terrier known in the family as Sadie. Sadie has many awards on her wall, and in 2010 she won “Best

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in Show” at the 134th Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show at Madison Square Garden. How esteemed can one dog be? After affixing her ribbon and accepting the prestigious cup, Sadie appeared on The Early Show, Good Morning America, The Today Show, and The View. She visited with Donald Trump, and with the help of Dan Musser III, she rang the opening bell at the New York Stock Exchange. Sadie’s handler, Gabriel Rangel, his wife, and their team of professionals deserve a lot of credit for Sadie’s achievements. Retire when you are ahead—that is what Sadie is doing, but not without spending a bit of time being bred. You know those puppies will be winners. Again, congratulations Sadie! Driving Diva Tip: Grand Hotel is such a must to visit, check for reduced rates and itineraries.

Mackinac Island itself is a bit touristy, but the charm of the place is still evident. The little trinket shops are fine to look at quickly, but getting to know the island and its past is a must. Mackinac has a fascinating history, so I’d recommend obtaining a map, stepping into some sturdy, comfortable walking shoes, and giving yourself a tour. Although the terrain is not totally flat, it is not too difficult. You can also rent a bicycle and tour the island if you are in bicycling shape.

ON THE MAINLAND Once back on the mainland and in your car, you may wish to take I-75 South toward Flint, and I highly recommend a stop at Birch Run Prime Outlets (Exit 136).

Birch Run Prime Outlets 12240 S. Beyer Rd. 989-624-6226 www.premiumoutlets.com/outlets/outlet.asp?id=82

I-75 itself is a great highway and very scenic. Billboards announce attractions for the avid hunter, and yes, a Federal Facility sign reminds,

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“Do not to pick up hitchhikers.” There are stretches with no facilities, so be sure to keep your gas tank at least half full and let people know where you are traveling.

SAUGATUCK

Wickwood Inn 510 Butler St. 269-857-1465 www.wickwoodinn.com

I have little doubt that this inn is an absolute, full-blown treasure. I have never been to Saugatuck and had not heard about it until my friend Julee transplanted herself from New York City. I have never seen Julee create something that was not perfect. Cofounder in the 1970s of the Silver Palate, the hugely successful gourmet takeout emporium only 165 square feet in size, she has authored five cookbooks, one now in the Cookbook Hall of Fame. Julee can put plaids and tulips together, and they look perfect. She can put a collection of cake molds together on a wall, and they look like works of art. Julee and her husband, Bill Miller, have created a masterpiece, practicing what they state: “Follow your passion and call it work.” Just look at the website, and you will see that I am telling the gospel truth. Julee and Bill hope to see you soon.

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ILLINOIS

CHICAGO here is something about this state, particularly Chicago, that I adore. Maybe it’s because my father was from Chicago, my grandparents (who died before I was born) are buried in Chicago’s oldest cemetery, and my grandfather wrote the song “Cubs on Parade” for the Chicago Cubs the last time they won the World Series—in 1908. (Perhaps that song, if played now, will do the trick.) Even if all that were not part of my heritage, I’d still adore Chicago and its tempo, people, history, and culture. I found on my last trip that Chicago can be difficult to get into by car (especially if the weather’s bad), and signage can be ambiguous and confusing. One time, when trying to get to downtown, I asked a policeman directing traffic how to find a specific street. Even he did not know where I was talking about (granted, he was helping for an event and from another area). At least he told the truth and directed me to a more knowledgeable policeman. Once you reach your destination, I find it is best to leave your car and explore the city by foot or using the excellent public transportation system.

T

Hilton Chicago 720 S. Michigan Ave. 312-922-4400 www.hiltonchicagohotel.com

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This hotel is a favorite. Originally the Stevens Hotel, it was at one time the largest hotel in the world. It opened its doors in May 1927 and was designed as a self-sufficient city within a city. In addition to its over four thousand rooms, the hotel once boasted a bowling alley, nursery, library, barbershop, and even a rooftop putting green. Remodeled in the 1980s, the hotel now features 1,544 quiet, comfortable, and refined rooms. Something is always going on at the Hilton. There can be a wedding reception in one ballroom and at the same time a big convention downstairs in the basement meeting rooms. Probably the most hectic and congested event I have ever attended was the annual Chicago Cub Convention held at the Hilton Chicago in January. Many movies have been shot at this unique property, including The Fugitive, Home Alone, My Best Friend’s Wedding, and The Road to Perdition, and whenever a helicopter lands on the roof of the hospital on ER, you’re actually looking at the roof of the Chicago Hilton. The hotel’s featured restaurants: For casual dining, visit the Pavilion, or enjoy authentic Irish pub food at Kitty O’Shea’s. The Lakeside Green Lounge is a very pleasant place to have a drink alone and also doubles as a “grab-and-go” breakfast bar in the morning. The Hilton offers a broad range of rooms and suites; it’s best to consult the website to find the best rate and learn about any special promotions. The Hilton Chicago is very centrally located and provides a convenient, complimentary shopping shuttle to the Magnificent Mile and other designated stops—a tremendous amenity for guests. I adore it! It’s also a stone’s throw from the Cultural Mile and Grant Park.

Drake Hotel 140 E. Walton Pl. 312-787-2200 www.thedrakehotel.com

The Drake, another great place to stay, is now also a part of the Hilton chain. The Drake has 535 stylish rooms, and its elegance has attracted the likes of the emperor of Japan and Princess Diana. Its four exceptional restaurants are Coq d’Or, the Cape Cod Room, Drake Bros., and Palm Court.

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Overlooking Oak Street Beach and Lake Michigan, the Drake is ideally situated to access the Magnificent Mile as well as other popular attractions. Applause, applause: Among its many goals and focuses, the Drake is very green oriented and concerned about the future of our environment. I also love that they give unused guest room amenities to a local shelter.

Palmer House 17 E. Monroe 312-726-7500 www.palmerhousehiltonhotel.com

The Palmer House, yet another Chicago landmark, is also owned by Hilton. For a while, it lost a bit of its original opulence, and a major renovation took place. I have not seen its new glory in person, but from every picture, the Palmer House has regained its beauty and charm and is a gem. The picture of the lobby with its vaulted ceiling and uncluttered decor is beautiful. There is the inviting Lobby Bar, and for dining there are Potter’s Lounge and the Lockwood Restaurant (312-917-3404). I am sure there are more updates. I tried to reach the powers that be to no avail. Chicago is a shopper’s Utopia. The Magnificent Mile on North Michigan Avenue is full of delights, from Neiman Marcus to the corner drugstore. State Street still has echoes of “that great street” and at one time contained two of the remaining old-world major department stores, Marshall Fields and Carson Pirie Scott & Co. (alas, Marshall Fields is now a Macy’s, and Carson Pirie Scott & Co. closed in 2007). One of my greatest shopping finds in Chicago, however, was not a department store but Hidden Treasures.

Hidden Treasures 46 E. Chicago Ave. #1 312-943-7761

This specialty retail shop supports hospital programs. I tried to verify its status, but the phone did not answer. Good Luck.

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Leaving Chicago can be almost as difficult as entering. Before venturing out, be sure to double-check the directions for getting to your desired highway. From downtown to the interstate, there are areas where a woman wouldn’t feel comfortable asking for directions. I did get terribly lost in a questionable area once, but thanks to a friendly police officer whose first name was Champagne, I was able to pop out of the city like a cork leaving a bottle. Thank you, Champagne. Driving Diva Tip: If you happen to be traveling through southern Illinois, check out Dobbs Bargain Town in Mount Vernon, a unique department store in a very large building that looks like an airplane hangar. Dobbs has everything from cheapie items to necessities—the latter, however, seemed to me a bit pricey.

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WISCONSIN

he highways throughout Wisconsin are good. Even the back roads that I traveled were manageable. I did not realize that the Mississippi River outlines the western boundary of the state, and Lake Michigan outlines a lot of the eastern border. No question: There is a whole lot I did not and do not realize about this state, but soon I hopefully will.

T

MILWAUKEE Milwaukee was not what I expected. It has charm and energy, although some more zing and color could be incorporated. The shoreline along Lake Michigan was a beautiful surprise. What a pretty discovery. This city hosts many festivals, even one of the world’s largest music festivals: Summerfest. Arriving in Milwaukee, I was greeted and shown around by a school friend named Kit. It was delightful to have her as a tour guide. We had really only communicated via Christmas cards until I called and said I was heading to Milwaukee. Needless to say, we talked a lot, and she pulled out all the stops, making me feel very special. Thank you, Lady Kit. There seemed to be a lot of young people—up-and-coming business executives and newlyweds. The places I saw and dined in were trendy, but not too much so. This city definitely needs another visit. 389

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Milwaukee has a wonderful historic hotel

The Pfister 424 E. Wisconsin Ave. 414-273-8222 or 800-558-8222 www.thepfisterhotel.com

I tried several times, but our schedules and maybe their interest in my project did not jell. I am sorry not to include a review, but there might be a next time. Driving Diva Factoid: Milwaukee is the home of Harley-Davidson motorcycles and Miller beer. As of this writing, labor negotiations are causing a huge brouhaha, and Harley-Davidson may be moving.

SPRING GREEN AND DODGEVILLE Spring Green is approximately 130 miles from Milwaukee. Having had the illuminating pleasure of visiting this most unique spot, I am not certain I can describe it adequately, but I can say without a doubt that you should visit House on the Rock for sure. It is definitely a unique must! Check on the Internet, and call for more particulars.

House on the Rock 5754 State Rd. 23, Spring Green 608-935-3639 www.houseontherock.com

If you are a pack rat or just a semisensible accumulator of “anythings,” you will feel right at home. This house contains art of every description and not just one of every kind. A glass collection has hundreds of pieces. The three-story bookcase is full of rare books. Then there are bronzes, stained glass lamps, antique weapons, toy collections, doll collections, musical instruments, a huge pipe organ, and the purported largest carousel in the world—and this describes only a miniscule part of this huge, unique collection in the house and on-site.

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Then there is the Infinity Room, which projects 218 feet out over a valley! You can see 156 feet below and to the horizon—although, at certain times of the year, viewing is over nature’s shrubbery. Alex Jordan envisioned and accomplished this amazing feat overlooking the beautiful Wyoming Valley. He began with a fourteen-room house that he added on and on and on to. His total land purchase encompassed two hundred acres. Prior to his death in 1989, Jordon sold his masterpiece to a friend, Art Donaldson, who was of the same ilk as he. Donaldson has kept House on the Rock thriving. Thank You! You will not be able, or want, to rush, so allow plenty of time. There are provisions for those who are claustrophobic and acrophobic. Tours have been divided into three parts, allowing you to take one, two, or three. Go for them all. This place is unique and memorable. You will talk about your visit to House on the Rock for a long time. FYI: You will now look at your own clutter differently.

Since my visit, a restaurant at Inspiration Point has opened. Look on the Internet for many details, and then plan to visit. I also learned that a hotel is now located seven miles from House on the Rock:

House on the Rock Inn 3591 Highway 23, Dodgeville 608-935-3711 www.houseontherock.com

Taliesin Highway 23 and County Road C, Spring Green 608-588-7900 www.taliesinpreservation.org

At this enclave of Frank Lloyd Wright, you will learn and get to know the master architect’s works of a lifetime. You will feel his genius even if you do not understand it. It is a place to discover. Several tours are available. They run from one hour to four hours and vary in price. Walking shoes are a must. There is a café on-site. Call for information.

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KOHLER (POPULATION APPROXIMATELY 2,000) Two and a half hours from Chicago and an hour from Milwaukee, this is the eponymous “company town” of the well-known manufacturer of exceptional plumbing fixtures and supplies. Manicured, extremely clean, pristine, and safe, it is quite close to a modern-day fiefdom dominated with thought and care by the Kohlers.

American Club 419 Highland Dr. 800-344-2838 www.americanclub.com

Originally established as lodging facilities for the craftsmen Mr. Walter J. Kohler brought from Europe to work in his factory, the restored and refurbished American Club is a truly magnificent property. What began in 1918 has been maintained and expanded for guests to admire and enjoy— always under the aegis of the Kohler family. This charming, beautiful, AAA Five Diamond resort hotel quite naturally contains state-of-the-art bath fixtures, which themselves are worth a night’s tariff to experience! Whirlpool baths, a master shower tower with four showerheads and ten push-button electronic keypad controls, a whitecap shower, and a foot whirlpool with steam enclosure are some of the possibilities. Do not get frustrated if at first you do not master all the knobs and plumbing possibilities. This will be a delightful Kohler experience. As functional and modern as your bathroom might be at home, it will never again seem adequate. The accommodations at the American Club are spacious with a wonderful mix of dark woods and floral fabrics. My room has a comfortable sitting area, a grand armoire to hide the TV, and perfectly appointed, refined amenities, be it the linens or small touches throughout the room. The property is beautiful, sophisticated, friendly, and gracious. The main areas are inviting and well planned. The dining facilities are excellent. The Immigrant Restaurant is the American Club’s award-winning showcase restaurant, and reservations are recommended. Jackets are required for men. The original dining room for

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the immigrant workers is now the Wisconsin Room (open for lunch and dinner). I found it very historic and enjoyed reading the displayed John Ruskin quote, favored as the Kohler Co. motto by the company’s founder: “Life without labor is guilt; labor without art is brutality.” There are other eateries, but for charm and a quaint atmosphere, chose the Greenhouse, where you can indulge in homemade ice cream, special coffees, and pastries. The American Club’s hand-dipped, original-recipe chocolates, made on the property, are delicious (www.kohlercandies.com). Investigate the other eateries and enjoy. FYI: Remember Cucina Italian Restaurant (920-452-3888) at the Shops at Woodlake.

The Kohler Water Spa was recently expanded by 9,045 square feet to total over 23,000 square feet. It includes a six-hundred-square-foot open-air top deck with an oversized whirlpool and a sixteen-foot, low-tothe-ground, cozy fireplace. There are also whirlpool and shower amenities on the deck. The ten immersion suites are very popular. Each suite offers an in-room massage and treatment area, a whirlpool for two with chromatherapy, a shower, a plasma-screen TV, and a sitting area. I have not visited yet, but since it has been included in the top fifty spas, I would be remiss not to include it. Golf is synonymous with the American Club. Blackwolf Run, site of the 1998 U.S. Women’s Open, will host the event again in 2012. Whistling Straits has been awarded the 2015 PGA Championship and the 2020 Ryder Cup. These courses will please, and possibly frustrate, the golfer. Driving Diva Factoid: In 2004 Kohler purchased the Old Course Hotel, Golf, Resort & Spa and Duke’s Course in St. Andrews, Scotland. There are 144 guest rooms and thirty-five suites (www.oldcoursehotel.co.uk).

There is much to do in this most special Wisconsin town of about fivesquare miles. The Kohler Plant, a must to tour, is directly opposite the American Club. Reservations are an absolute must. Contact the hotel. I

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confess that I was hesitant to tour a “plant,” but I was so wrong. It is fascinating. You actually see how the plumbing items are made to perfection with not a stray finger mark to be found. If even a scratch or miniscule zit is found, the item is cracked to pieces and remade. You see all the steps taken to manufacture these outstanding Kohler products until they are ready for sale. Seeing a new tub come out of the oven is a happening. I would take the tour again, as there is so much to observe.

Kohler Design Center 101 Upper Rd. 920-457-3699 www.us.kohler.com

This is open to the public. The display of Kohler products is extreme and wonderful. You will never look at plumbing fixtures in the same way once you have seen the Kohler Design Center.

Shops at Woodlake 725 Woodlake Rd., #Q 920-459-1713 or 877-860-4441

This wonderful shopping experience should be cloned. The approximately twenty-seven shops are located around a tree-lined lake. The facades blend aesthetically. Save time to visit the shops. PS: As a teenager I learned the Wisconsin football team song “On Wisconsin! On Wisconsin!” Little did I realize what an attractive state it was. I probably only knew its whereabouts for a geography quiz. Now added to my must-see list are Appleton, Oshkosh, Sheboygan, Wausau, and more. Wisconsin, here I come . . . but not in the winter. Addendum: As previously stated, I have personally visited every inclusion in this book, except when noted. The following addendums are included because I find them definitely worth knowing and are from a most reputable source: my daughter-in-law Chris, who is from Wisconsin.

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APPLETON (POPULATION APPROXIMATELY 70,000) Appleton had the first house with lights and the first indoor mall. Houdini and his wife lived here, where he claimed to have been born, although he was actually a native of Hungary. Money magazine listed this as one of the best places to live in 2010.

CEDARBURG (POPULATION APPROXIMATELY 11,000) Cedarburg is in Ozaukee County. (I love those names!) Many of the original stone and brick buildings have been saved. This special community takes a definite pride in preserving the old. By 1893, Cedarburg had the largest woolen mill west of Philadelphia. In 2008 it was voted the number one best little town for shopping. So much about this little town makes it a must-visit.

DOOR COUNTY (POPULATION APPROXIMATELY 30,000) This very popular tourist destination derives its name from the strait between Door Peninsula and Washington Island. Early explorers quickly realized the hazards of the strait. Many shipwrecks lie at its bottom. Door County is a favorite for many reasons. Enjoy a boil fish or picking and eating the famous delicious, big cherries. I have learned not only that Wisconsin is a very dynamic state but that its inhabitants are friendly, interesting, and quite athletic—they even go ice fishing. I was once considered quite athletic, but would I try ice fishing? Well, for a little bit . . . maybe.

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One more tidbit:

National Mustard Museum 7477 Hubbard Ave., Middleton 800-438-6878 www.mustardmuseum.com

This unique museum is located west of Madison in Middleton and was created by former Wisconsin assistant attorney general Barry Levenson. The story of how he became the CMO (chief mustard officer) is inspiring and interesting, at least to me, and I give him a creative chutzpah award. Who would have thought that this yellow stuff would have a museum in its honor? Well, all I can say is, Wisconsin here I come.

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CONTRIBUTORS

Kodak: The Kodak Easy Share V610 dual-lens digital camera is fantastic. It has helped me keep track of all I have seen. I recommend it and acknowledge that it can do more than I know how to take advantage of. It is the world’s smallest 10x optical zoom digital camera. Given how quickly products develop, I am sure a new model is on the scene. Regardless, it is a gem of a camera. Thank you, Kodak. GM: The Rendezvous that GM loaned me to drive round-trip, coast to coast, was an interesting vehicle and totally surprised me. In my mind’s eye, I did not think the Rendezvous, as a Buick, would have a youthful ambiance. How wrong I was. Not only was it comfortable and roomy, but I had OnStar on board. What technology! OnStar gives you a consoling feeling as a representative is with you at the push of a button. I enjoyed hyping the Rendezvous and OnStar as I traveled cross-country. Thank you, GM, for the experience. Magellan GPS: Thank you for introducing me to your product. This was my first GPS. Not being GPS savvy, it was a bit confusing for me, but thank you for the experience. I am sure all sorts of upgrades have been made. I appreciate your interest in my project. Garmin: Thank you, Garmin. I got this GPS to work, and it is amazing. I used it up, down, and around the eastern seaboard over thousands of miles. What a helpful driving companion! LifeHammer: Every car should have a LifeHammer. It alone can save your life in an accident in the water or on land. This special seven-inch 397

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398 | Romancing the Roads

item has two precisely machined steel hammerheads designed to break a side window. The razor-sharp safety blade will cut through a seat belt. Thank you, LifeHammer, for your support. For more information, visit www.lifehammer.com. Buckwheat Pillow: All-natural, nonallergenic, buckwheat-hull-filled Makura pillows come in various sizes. They are the perfect pillow, conforming to your head and neck without compressing or causing strain in your neck. This pillow should be on every bed and in every car. They are ideal for when you stop and take a short snooze. For more information, visit www.theoriginalmakura.com. My Car: Over and over I am asked what car I drive. I am presently driving a Ford, which is serving me well. It is a little challenging mastering all the new, state-of-the-art features, but you are glad to have them. Ford has gotten me from coast to coast and border to border—one hundred thousand miles and more. Thank you.

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INDEX

5 Brothers Grocery and Sandwich Shop, 339 5th Avenue Cleaners, 106 8½, 97 “21”, 34 17th Street Farmer’s Market, 89 Acadia National Park, 4 Ace Hardware, 322–23 Affordables, 201 African Queen, 316 Alabama Jacks, 314 Alan S. Maltz Gallery, 336 The Alex, 30 All About Moving and More, 343 Amelia Island Plantation Resort, 241 Amway Grand Plaza Hotel, 379 Another’s Man Treasures, 343 Après Vous, 154 Arcade Café, 94 Arcadia All-Florida Championship Rodeo, 361 Arcadia Tea Room, 361 Arianna’s Grill and Pizza, 100 A. Schwab Dry Goods Store, 166 Ashland, 155 Asticou Inn, 5

Atheneum Suite Hotel, 376 Atlantic Resort & Spa, 296 Atlantique Café, 291 The Attic, 104 Attitudes, 283 Audry’s Attic, 343 Azzurro, 94 Bacchus, 99 Baggio, 104 Bahia Honda State Park, 332 Baker’s Crust, 98 Ballantyne Hotel-Lodge, 191 The Banyan Tree, 330 Barbara Jean’s, 226 Barbaresco, 40 Barnacle Historic State Park, 307 Barter Theatre, 137 Batteries Plus, 107 Beale Street, 165 Beale Street Flippers, 166 Beaufort Inn, 217 Beaumont Inn, 151 Beauty Shop Restaurant and Lounge, 170 Belz Museum of Asian and Judaic Art, 167 Bergdorf Goodman, 46 Berkeley Hotel, 85

399

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400 | Index Bethesda Bargain Box, 292 Bici, 284 Biltmore Estate, 184 Birch Run Prime Outlets, 383 Bistro 1896, 187 Blenheim Vineyards, 129 Blue Crab Bay Co., 118 Blue Ridge Parkway, 131 Blue Spring Manor, 365 Blue Tree, 49 Boardwalk Inn, 207 Boar’s Head Inn, 128 Bob Ellis Shoe Store, 200 Bob’s Bunz Islamorada Restaurant & Bakery, 329 Boca Raton Resort and Club, 294 Bohemian Hotel, 236 Book & Gift Shop of the Preservation Society of Charleston, 200 BOOM, 12 Boudrias Groves, 266 Bradley’s Antiques, 105 Brazilian Court, 272 Breakfast Club, 240 Breakers (NJ), 63 The Breakers (Palm Beach), 270 Brenda Lee’s Deli Café, 361 The Brown, 157 Buffalo Trace Distillery, 156 Buford Pharmacy, 107 Bunker, 144 Busch Gardens Williamsburg, 110 Butterfly Consignment Boutique, 103 Buzzard’s Roost, 315 Byrd Theatre, 87 Cabbage Key Inn and Restaurant, 347 Café Tropical, 339 Caffé Luna Rosa, 290 Campbell House (now Crowne Plaza), 153 Can Can, 95 Cape Canaveral, 250

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Capitol building (Richmond, VA), 88 Cargo Portside Grill, 224 Caribbean Club, 316 Carino, 38 Carlyle Hotel, 29 Carnegie Hall, 53 Carolina Gourmet, 202 Carolina Pottery, 180 Carriage Way Bed & Breakfast, 245 Cartier, 47 Casa Monica Hotel, 246 Casa Morada, 325 Cauley Square Historic Village, 309 Charleston Place, 203 Charleston Tea Plantation, 213 Cheeca Lodge & Spa, 328 Chelsea House Ltd., 71 Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel (VA), 117 The Chesterfield, 276 Children’s Museum, 92 Christmas Tree Shop, 21 Chrysler Museum, 112 Church Mouse, 282 Cincinnatian Hotel, 369 Circle Line Sightseeing Tours, 56 City Market, 202 City Place, 267 Clark’s Inn & Restaurant, 197 Class Act, 260 Classy Collections, 344 Clematis Street, 268 Cleveland Museum of Art, 373 The Cloister at Sea Island, 227 Closet Revival, 21 Clothes by Consignment, 344 Clothes Encounters, 189 CNN, 222 Coconut Grove, 307 Colonial Plating, 107 The Colony (Palm Beach), 277 The Colony Beach and Tennis Resort, 351

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Index | 401 Colony Hotel and Cabana Club (Delray), 286 Colony House Motor Lodge, 139 Comfort Zone, 61 Common Ground Coffeehouse Market Café, 217 Concepts on Highland Restaurant, 262 Conrad-Caldwell House, 161 Conservancy of Naples, 343 Consign and Design Interiors and Home Furnishing, 264 Consignment Connection, 104 Cooper Young Neighborhood, 170 Coral Castle, 311 Cottage Rose, 263 Cousin Vinny’s, 367 Cranberry Island and Little Cranberry Island, 4 Crane’s Beach House Hotel, 289 Culinary Institute of America, 57 The Cypress, 352 Da Kine Diego’s Insane Burritos, 259 The Dandelion, 123 Davis & Main, 96 Dede Cadieux Jewelry, 7 Delamar, 16 Denny’s Latin Café, 319 dentist: Dr. Elizabeth Wilson, 107 Designer Resale, 50 Designing Women Boutique, 355 Dickens House B&B, 359 Dino’s Auto Spa, 12 Disney’s Vero Beach Resort, 266 Dixon Gallery and Gardens, 167 Do Sushi and Noodles, 171 Drake Hotel, 386 Duval Street, 336 The Early Show, 54 E.A.T., 41 Echo (Palm Beach), 271

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Edo’s Squid, 98 Ed Sullivan Theater, Late Show with David Letterman, 56 Eliza Thompson House, 233 Ellwood Thompson’s Natural Market, 89 Empire State Building, 54 Encore (Naples), 342 Encore (NYC), 50 Eno Restaurant and Wine Bar, 221 Entre Nous, 224 Everglades Alligator Farm, 312 Everglades National Park, 312 Excellent Seconds, 189 Fairlane Town Center, 378 FAO Schwartz, 55 Fifi’s Fine Resale Apparel, 243 Fifth Avenue Cleaners, 106 Fishbone, 375 Fishermans Corner, 120 The Fish House Encore Restaurant, Sushi Bar & Lounge, 318 The Fish House Restaurant & Seafood Market, 318 Five Guys, 100, 132 Flagler Museum, 280 Florida Keys Outlet Center, 312 Florida Keys Wild Bird Center, 322 The Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park, 244 Fox Theatre, 220 Foxwoods, 13 Fraiche, 102 French Broad Chocolates, 187 French Protestant (Huguenot0 Church, 199 Furniture and More Thrift Store, 263 Garden Shop at the Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden, 102 Gaylord’s Opryland, 174 Geo. C. Birlant & Co., 200

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402 | Index George C. Williams, 200 The Georgian Terrace, 220 Ginjer’s Designer Bargain, 293 Glen Ella Springs Inn, 218 Go Fish Clothing and Jewelry Co., 248 Good Morning America, 55 Goodwill (Naples), 343 Goodwill Embassy Boutique (Palm Beach), 282 Goodwill Shop (U.S. 1), 310 Gould’s Day Spa & Salon, 165 Gourmet Perks Coffee Shop and Café, 186 Graceland, 169 Grand Bohemian Hotel Asheville, 186 Grand Central Eateries, 43 Grand Central Station, 26 Grand Hotel, 380 Gray Line Tours (bus), 56 Great Stuff, 292 Great White Heron Wildlife Refuge, 332 Greektown, 375 Greektown Casino, 376 The Greenbrier, 141 Greenbrier Clinic, 145 Green Turtle (FL Keys), 325 Green Turtle Market and the Grapevine Café, 261 Green’s Pharmacy, 280 Griffon Shop at the Newport Art Museum, 20 Grind for Life, 257 Grove Arcade, 188 Grove Isle Hotel & Spa, 303 Grove Park Inn Resort and Spa, 181 Gryphon Tea Room, 237 Guadalupe Resale, 343 Guild Antiques II, 49 Halcyon Experienced Clothing, 104 The Hall Tree, 89 Hammock Beach Resort, 249 Hammonasset State Park, 13

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Harriette’s, 321 Harry & David, 181 Harvey’s on First, 292 Hattitude Tearoom and Gifts, 73 Hawks Cay Resort, 332 Haywood Park Hotel, 185 Helen S. Martin Antiques, 200 The Hemingway Home, 337 Henry Ford Estate, 377 Hermitage Hotel, 176 Hidden Treasures, 387 Hilda Crockett’s Chesapeake House, 120 Hilton Chicago, 385 Hilton Cincinnati Netherland Plaza, 371 Historic Parker House B&B, 362 Hollywood Cemetery, 93 Holy Name Thrift Store, 260 The Homestead (Hot Springs, VA), 132 Homestead-Miami Speedway, 310 Hope and Glory Inn, 121 Hotel Ranola, 353 Hotel Wales, 32 House on the Rock, 390 Hyatt (Town Center), 378 The Inn on Biltmore Estate, 185 Inn at Palmetto Bluff, 213 Irresistibles, 101 Island House Restaurant, 119 Island Style, 336 J&J Raw Bar and Grill, 290 Jack Daniel’s World Championship Invitational Barbecue Competition (TN), 179 Jack Daniels, 178 Jefferson Hotel, 83 Jefferson Pools, 135 Jekyll Island Club, 231 Jekyll Island Club Hotel, 232 John and Mable Ringling Museum of Art, 349

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Index | 403 John Marshall Hotel, 85 John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, 316 JR Discount Outlets, 181 Junior League Clothes Rack #1 and #2, 103 Kate Shepard House (B&B), 366 Keeneland Race Course, 155 Keith-Albee Theatre, 148 Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex, 250 Keswick Hall, 123 Kincaid’s, 115 King and Prince Beach and Golf Resort, 226 Kohler Design Center, 394 La Grotto, 95 The Lady and Sons Restaurant (Paula Deen), 238 Lafayette Hotel, 368 Lago Mar Resort and Club, 298 Laingdon Hotel (B&B), 61 Landmark Theater, 87 Lansky’s Haberdashery, 165 Laura’s Boutique & Loft, 136 Lemaire Restaurant, 84 Lemon Tree Inn, 341 Le Parker Meridien, 33 Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden, 92 Liberty Hotel, 9 Lido Grille, 354 Limones Mexican & California Cuisine, 187 Linden Row Inn, 85 Lionheart Gallery, 160 Little Palm Island, 333 Livingston Antiques, 200 L. L. Bean, 1 Long Doggers, 259 Lorelei Restaurant and Cabana Bar, 326

LOVE at 2nd Site, 342 Love Shack, 291 Luca Restaurant, 37 The Lucky Exchange, 221 Lumi ,40 M&S Grill, 79 MacArthur Mall, 114 MacArthur Memorial, 114 Madison Hotel, 166 Maggianno’s, 96 Magnificent Mile, 386 Main One Marina Inc., 62 Maison Suisse Inn, 5 Mallory Square, 337 Mama Leone’s Pizza and Italian Restaurant, 19 Mamma Zu, 96 Mandarin Oriental, 301 Mango Hair Salon I & II, 105, 106 Mangrove Mama’s, 334 Mansion on Forsyth Park, 235 Marche Burette, 242 Mariko, 282 Mariner Hospital, 323 Mariner’s Museum, 111 The Mark, 32 Marriott Marquis, 34 Martha Washington Inn, 138 Mary Mac’s Tea Room, 221 Mast General Store, 188 Matthew 25 Thrift Shop, 68 Mayfair, 305 Maymount, 92 Mel Fisher Museum, 338 Mercer Williams House Museum, 234 Merritt House B&B, 146 Michael R. McCarty’s, 284 Michie Tavern, 128 Millie’s, 95 Miss Mary Bo Bo’s Boarding House Restaurant, 178

404 | Index Mollie Fontaine Lounge, 171 Molly Mutt 1 Thrift Shop, 255 Mohegan Sun Resort, 15 Monticello, 127 Montpelier, 130 Moonlite Drive-In Movie Theater, 139 Morada Bay Beach Café, 327 Mosaic Café, 95 Moses Myers House, 113 Mr. C’s, 320 Mrs. Mac’s Kitchen, 319 Mrs. Marshall’s, 95 Museum of Natural History of the Florida Keys, 331 Nagles Apothecary Café, 62 Nancy’s Totally You, Yet Totally New, 201 Naples Trail of Treasures, 342 Nate’s Trick Dog Café, 122 National Key Deer Refuge, 332 National Mustard Museum, 396 Nauticus at the National Maritime Center, 114 Nectar 82 Restaurant, 41 Newport Candlelight Tour of Historic Homes, 19 New to You Consignment, 344 New York’s Best Egg Cream, 52 Nippy’s, 217 Nittany Lion Inn, 65 Oatley’s Restaurant, 22 Occidental Grill & Seafood, 78 Ocean Key Resort, 337 Off the Grille Bistro, 307 Old Drug Store, 248 Old Ebbitt Grill, 79 Old Edwards Inn and Spa, 189 Old Post Office Pavilion, 79 Old Time Pottery, 263 Old Town Trolley Tour, 335 Oldest Wooden School House, 244

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Omni Detroit Hotel River Place, 377 Omphoy Ocean Resort, 275 Opryland, 173 Options Thrift Shoppe, 342 Outlets at Vero Beach, 265 P. J. Clarke’s, 36 Palm Beach Historic Inn, 279 Palm Island Resort, 345 Palm Restaurant, 303 Palmer House, 387 Papaya King, 42 Pappy’s, 376 Paris Market & Brocante, 237 Parker’s Gas Station, 238 Pattigeorge’s, 352 Peabody Hotel, 162 Peabody Place, 165 Penn Stater, 66 Perly’s, 94 Peter Blair, 101 The Pfister, 390 The Pier, 356 Pier Dolphin Cruises, 356 Pierre’s, 327 Pineapples & Pelicans, 202 Pink Junktique, 321 Pinocchio Ristorante, 43 Pio Pio, 39 plantations (VA), 108 The Plaza, 28 Pleasant Surprise, 21 Plum’s Café, 216 Positive Vibe Café, 100 Professor Thom’s Restaurant, 52 Pullman Plaza (historic district), 148 The Rain Barrel, 323 Ralph Lauren, 48 Renaissance Cleveland Hotel, 372 Renaissance Vinoy Resort and Golf Club, 356

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Index | 405 Renato’s, 283 Renew 4 You, 102 Repeat Boutique: The Junior League of Memphis, 172 Replacements Ltd., 190 Rhett House Inn, 215 Ripley’s Believe It or Not!, 244 Rising Moon, 247 Ritz-Carlton Cleveland, 373 Ritz-Carlton Naples, 342 Ritz-Carlton Sarasota, 353 River City Diner, 97 Riverside Shore Memorial Hospital, 118 Robins Tea House at the Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden, 96 Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, 373 Rockefeller Center, 55 Romantic Room, 6 Ron Jon’s, 256 Round Robin Ltd., 202 Rowena’s, 115 Royal Poinciana Way, 281 Ryman Auditorium, 172 S&S Body Shop, 106 Sadie Bake Shop, 67 Saigon, 238 Saltus River Grill, 216 Salvador Dalí Museum, 358 Sam Snead’s Tavern, 136 The Sanctuary, 209 Sanderling Resort & Spa, 193 Sandpiper Clothier, 344 Sarabeth’s Kitchen, 39 Sassy Fox, 156 Science Museum of Virginia, 91 Second Time Around Flea Market, 171 Seelbach Hilton, 158 Seng Jewelers, 160 Seven Mile Bridge (FL Keys), 331 Shell World, 317 Shawnee Inn and Golf Resort, 69

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Sheppard Street Antiques, 102 Shirley’s Bay View Inn, 120 Shockoe Slip, Cary Street, Canal Street, 88 Shoe Department, 364 Shops at 5807, 101 Shops at Woodlake, 394 Sloan’s Ice Cream Parlor, 268 The Snappy Turtle, 291 South of the Border, 195 Southern Graces, 217 Spa at Norwich Inn, 14 Spa Palazzo (Boca Raton), 294 Spill the Beans, 68 Squid Lips Restaurant, 261 Stage Delicatessen, 41 St. Armands Circle, 350 St. John’s Church, 88 St. Paul’s Church, 88 St. Paul’s Episcopal Church (Key West), 337 St. Paul’s United Methodist Church Thrift Shop, 261 St. Regis Hotel, 28 Statue of Liberty, 54 Steinway Hall, 53 Stephan Lawrence Ltd., 154 Steuben, 48 Stono Market, 212 Stony Point Fashion Park, 90 Strawberry Street Café, 97 Sundowners, 317 Sun on the Beach, 260 Sun Studio, 168 Sundy House, 287 The Surrey, 30 Table 50, 140 Table d’Hôte, 37 Taco City, 257 Talbots Surplus, 156 Taliesin, 391 Tallulah Gorge State Park, 219

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406 | Index Tamarack, 146 Tanya Pierce, 283 Tavern on the Green, 37 Ted’s Montana Grill, 43 Thrift for Life, 259 Tides Inn, 122 Tiffany & Co., 46 Tiger’s Eye, 67 Tobacco Co., 98 The Today Show, 55 Todd Jurich’s Bistro, 116 Tommy Dew’s Walking History Tour on the Market, 199 Top of the Point, 271 Tower of Pizza, 318 Trattoria Dell’Arte, 36 Treasure Chest, 355 Trevini Ristorante, 284 Trump Tower, 53 Turnberry Isle Resort, 299 Turner Sculpture Museum and Foundry, 119 Turn Over Shop, 292 Two Chefs, 308 Uncle Bubba’s Oyster House, 238 Uncle’s Restaurant, 325 Union Station Hotel, 176 Valentine Richmond History Center, 91 Van Cleef & Arpels, 47 Vanderbilt Hall Hotel, 20 Vero Beach Museum of Art, 266 Vespa, 38 Victoria House (B&B), 63

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Viking Hotel, 20 Village Chalet Restaurant, 310 The Village Collection, 148 Village Exxon, 106 Virginia Air and Space Center, 112 Virginia Aquarium and Maritime Science Center, 117 Virginia Museum of Fine Arts, 91 Virginia Zoo (Norfolk), 113 Vizcaya, 307 Waldorf=Astoria, 26 Water Country USA, 111 We Care Thrift Store, 258 Wentworth Mansion, 205 Western Reserve Historical Society, 373 Westwood Pharmacy, 107 Whitehall Inn, 2 Wickwood Inn, 384 Wild Dunes Resort, 207 Williamsburg Pottery, 110 William & Sherrill Interiors, 90 Willow Grove Inn, 130 Windfall Antiques, 73 Woman’s Exchange, 171 The Woodrow Wilson Presidential Library and Museum, 131 World Wide Sportsman, 324 Worth Avenue, 281 Yellow Dog Café, 264 York Grill, 42 YTT Antiques, 236 Ziggie & Mad Dog’s, 324

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