Pintucks & Lace, Using Heirloom Techniques on Today's Styles

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Heirloom sewing is exquisite...fine fabrics, delicate, detailed stitches; and beautiful. The purpose of this book is to teach the lovely stitches that can be made by machine, replicating the true heirloom look, and to showcase techniques that can then be applied to the making of baby dresses, wedding gowns, and special occasion outfits, and to add a touch of femininity to other items in a fraction of the time it took our ancestors to make a garment.

In sewing heirloom you will apply heirloom techniques on the fabric first, and then cut out the pattern. You will be using lighter weight fabrics, special sewing machine feet, starch and stabilizers, as you complete a lot of precision details. Heirloom sewing is not difficult once you know the stitches and procedures, but it takes time, patience, and skill at the machine. The end result is well worth the time and effort to learn the techniques! 4

© 2006 Bunkhouse Books No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any other information storage and retrieval system, without the written permission of the publisher, with this exception: Bunkhouse Books grants permission to photocopy all pattern sheets for purchasers’ personal use.

Published and Distributed by: Bunkhouse Books JoAnn Gagnon Toll Free (800) 337-8845 www.bunkhousesewing.com

Designed and Written by: JoAnn Gagnon Corrie Gagnon Berneking

Illustrated by: Kelli Voth

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gtuÄx Éy VÉÇàxÇàá Fabrics, Laces, and Supplies: Sewing Supplies Rotary Cutting Supplies Starching Fabrics Fabrics, Laces, and Threads Stabilizers Solving Sewing Machine Problems

Projects: 7 9 9 11 11 22

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Techniques: Rotary Cutting Clipping Curves and Points How to Tie a Square Knot Pintucks Lace Insertion Pin Stitching Puffing Fancy Machine Stitches Lace Shaping Joining Fabric & Laces Sharks Teeth Turned Edge Appliqué Machine Shell Stitching Seam Finishes Making Tucks Stitch-In-The-Ditch Topstitching Sewing on a Button Making Buttonholes Gathering Fabric Piping a Seam Hand Embroidery Stitches Embroidery Designs

10 13 13 14 16 16 17 17 18 19 21 23 24 24 48 56 56 58 55 62 63 94 97

6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24.

Size Charts: Baby Sizes Girls Sizes Misses Sizes

64 64 64

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Fancy Gift Bag Sweet Lavender Sachet Dressy Half Slip Classy Straight Skirt Exquisite Sampler Quilt ..Block 1 ..Block 2 ..Block 3 ..Block 4 ..Block 5 ..Block 6 ..Block 7 ..Block 8 ..Block 9 ..Sashing ..Sashing Squares ..Completing the Top ..Outside Ruffle ..Layering ..Quilting Pretty Eyeglass Case Simple Bookmarks Old Fashioned Pillow Sweet Baby Dress Frilly Socks Special Occasion Dress Dainty Baby Slip Darling Pinafore Cute Baby Bonnet Pretty Headband Ribbon Bow Lacy Panties Nifty Booties Lovely Shrug Beautiful Tiered Skirt Lacy Blouse Embroidered Tea Cozy Tea Time Table Topper Matching Napkins

25 26 27 28 29 32 34 37 38 40 41 43 46 47 51 52 53 54 55 57 45 55 60 65 68 69 74 75 78 79 79 80 83 85 87 89 90 92 93

[x|ÜÄÉÉÅ fxã|Çz fâÑÑÄ|xá There are a few specialty sewing supplies you will want to purchase and use in heirloom sewing. They will all be needed to complete the projects in this book. Double Needle - stitches two rows of threads at once Use a 2.0 width for making pintucks on projects in this book.

Wing Needle - a wing needle is very wide at the “eye” and has a thicker than normal shank. It will spread the fibers as it goes through the fabric and leaves a ‘hole” when the needle passes through several times. Use for entredeux and pinstitching.

Edge Joining foot - butts and stitches two finished edges together precisely and evenly. You will use this foot for stitching laces together.

Open Toed Foot - Use this foot to see what you’re stitching! Great for appliqué and fancy machine stitches.

Pintuck Foot - This foot has several grooves (3, 5, or 7) under the bottom of the foot. The groove directly under the needle allows room for the fabric to be taken up into a pintuck. The other grooves ensure even spacing between pintucks when a previously stitched pintuck is put under another groove.

Walking Foot –a special machine presser foot that feeds from the top. Great for thick and slick fabrics.

Wonder Tape - double sided sticky tape that can be stitched through, then washes away.

Shape ’N Press Board - 24” X 28” rectangular shaped ‘ironing board’ with grid marks and shaped templates (hearts, teardrops, diamonds, loops, scallops) for easy lace shaping.

Spray Starch - adds body to fabrics. You will use this on your batiste for all your projects. 7

Dressmaking Shears - These shears can be identified because one handle is larger than the other. They have longer, stronger blades than scissors, and will be used primarily for cutting fabric. Cutting paper with your shears will dull the blade.

4” Rounded End Pocket Scissors - These scissors are used to trim the fabric out from behind lace. The blunt point prevents you from catching your lace and cutting it with the scissor points.

Duck Bill Scissors - These nifty scissors have bent handles and a flat D shaped blade. They allow you to lay your fabric flat to trim away from stitching without cutting the wrong fabric or lace.

Glass Head Pins - Pins should have glass heads. In heirloom sewing you will be pressing over the pins. Glass heads don’t melt! They should be fine, sharp and rustproof so they won’t damage your fabric.

Washout Marking Pen - This works well on heirloom fabrics and other light colors. The pen writes in blue ink, which remains until you rinse it away with water.

Seam Gauge - This is a 6” metal ruler with a plastic, movable piece, used to keep distances even when using in different applications.

Seam Ripper - Use to remove unwanted stitches. It has a point that will go under the stitched thread. As you push it under, its sharp edge cuts the thread. You need to be extra careful not to accidentally cut your fabric threads.

Wash Away Basting Thread - This thread is water soluble and helps you avoid the frustration of removing basting stitches. It dissolves easily in water and is wonderful for machine and hand basting. We will be using it for turned edge appliqué projects.

Iron - It’s ideal to have an iron that can be used either with steam or dry. You will be using a steam iron on all the projects in this book. Always turn off and unplug an iron when you are finished with your sewing for the day.

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eÉàtÜç Vâàà|Çz fâÑÑÄ|xá Accuracy in cutting is essential for success with quilting and heirloom projects. The rotary cutting supplies below help you cut precisely and make perfect squares. There are many specialty shapes and sizes, but you can complete most projects with these basics:

Quilters Square - This is a see through square with 1 inch pieced grid lines. You will use it to straighten project blocks into perfect squares. Squares come in several sizes…..I prefer the 12 1/2” X 12 1/2” size, it can be used with smaller sizes as well. Quilters Ruler - These rulers provide a straight edge to run the rotary cutter along, and are used in many ways similar to a tape measure. They come in several sizes…..I find the 6” X 24” size most versatile. Matt Board - This cutting board protects your table. Most have a plain side and a gridded side to them. They are made to be used with the rotary cutter, and are self-healing after use. Cutting is much easier on a larger board. Rotary Cutter - This tool makes cutting fast and fun. A very sharp, round blade cuts fabric in open position. For safety, the blade locks in closed position. Most have ergonomically designed handles for comfort, and can be used with either the right or left hand.

fxã|Çz g|щ g|щfàtÜv{|Çz çÉâÜ YtuÜ|vá Spray starch is used extensively on your fabrics for heirloom sewing. It makes the fabric easier to work with by adding sizing, and helps to prevent it from bunching when stitching. You’ll want to keep the can a distance of 12” - 14” away from your fabric when spraying. Spray smoothly and apply a thin coat. Press the top side dry, and then apply to the back side. It is much better to apply several light coats rather than one heavy coat. Your fabric must be dry before marking or stitching. Too much starch can turn your fabric brown in spots. Not to worry - it will washout with water. If you do not have a Teflon coated iron, you will want to cool your iron and clean the sole plate periodically. Starch can build up on it, too, and the resulting build-up can transfer to your fabric. 9

[Éã gÉ háx g{x eÉàtÜç VâààxÜ TÇw `tàà Using a Rotary Cutter and Matt Board: • Fold your fabric lengthwise, on the fold, selvages together. 1. • Place your fabric onto your rotary matt with the selvages next to you and the fold away from you. The length of your fabric runs side to side. • Place the edge of a quilters square on the fold line, near the cut edge. • Place the longer quilters ruler next to it as shown in Diagram 1. • Hold the ruler in position with your left hand, 2. fingers spread. • Pick up the rotary cutter with your right hand, and expose the blade. Hold it straight up, and following the edge of the longer quilters ruler, slowly apply a small amount of pressure to the cutter, trimming your fabric so it is perfectly “squared” (2, 3). • If you are making a long cut, you may pause with your cutter, and move your left hand fingers farther up the ruler to stabilize your cutting edge. (4). • Always roll the cutter away from you, and be sure to 3. keep your fingers out of the way! • If you find that the ruler moves on you, you may want to purchase some small grips to stick on the underside of your ruler to grip to the fabric. • Reverse this process if you are left-handed. Cutting Strips: • Most fabric cuts will be made from selvage to selvage. 4. This is why it is important to begin with a perfectly straight, “squared” strip. • Once your fabric has been “squared”, you may now cut straight lengths of fabric from this edge. • Your ruler has see-through grid marks. If you would like to cut a 4” wide strip, line up the 4” line on the ruler with the trimmed edge of fabric. Using the rotary cutter, cut along the edge of the ruler, using your left hand to hold the ruler in place. 5. • You may want to periodically open up your fabric to check that the strip is still straight. If not, re-square your fabric (5). • Cutting through several thicknesses at once does save time, but you will be compromising accuracy In the process. I limit myself to 4 thickness of cotton fabric. 10

Straight like this. Not like this.

[x|ÜÄÉÉÅ YtuÜ|vá? _tvxá? tÇw g{Üxtwá Heirloom Laces Insertion Lace -

Has two straight edges, solid lace pattern in the middle, and must be joined on both edges.

Beading Lace -

Has two straight edges. This lace has holes to thread ribbon through it. It must be joined on both edges.

Edging Lace -

Has one straight edge, and one uneven edge. It is used as an outside edge finish, and can lay flat or be gathered.

Entredeux -

Has two fabric edges. May be sewn to fabric, or trimmed and joined to lace.

For true heirloom, always use 100% cotton laces. Nylon and polyester laces in general are not what you want to use. They can’t take the heat of an iron, don’t last as long, and are stiff for shaping.

Heirloom Fabrics Heirloom Sewing, also called French Sewing by machine, encompasses many embellishing techniques unique to very fine, lightweight, cotton fabrics. You should purchase the best quality fabrics and laces you can afford. Better quality is easier to sew with and will look better when you are finished. Some of the most popular and commonly available fabrics include: • •

• •

Swiss Batiste - 100% cotton fabric, lightweight, made in Switzerland. I use Swiss Batiste for smaller items and for those that will become true heirlooms to be passed on. Symphony Broadcloth - polyester/cotton blend, lightweight. I generally purchase this fabric for garments. Though this blend is not truly an heirloom fabric, I appreciate that it will not wrinkle. When I put this much time into a fancy dress, I want to see it worn...and people in general don’t like to press. Linens - Handkerchiefs, tablecloths, and articles that need a little heavier weights. It does wrinkle, so is great for flat items that are easily pressed. Organdy - Is a sheer, can be embroidered on, and is nice for collars.

Threads For Heirloom Sewing We always try to match all our notions to our fabrics. Cotton thread is the best. You will use a finer, lighter weight thread for batiste to match the finer, lighter weight threads in the fabric. I personally use Coats & Clarks Extra Fine because of the availability. Mettler 60 weight, 2 ply, Art. 240 works well, also.

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fàtu|Ä|éxÜá You will be working with fine laces and lightweight fabrics. Stabilizers are required for heirloom sewing to prevent your fabrics from being caught up and chewed by your machine. They also help to eliminate puckering, stretching and distortion of stitches. You will want to work a sample before starting your project to see that you have the right stabilizer for the job. Here is a brief overview and names of a few of the different stabilizers I have used.

Tear Away •

•

Stitch and Ditch Stabilizer - my personal favorite. I use it for all my lightweight heirloom sewing. It is the lightest weight stabilizer that I know of. It tears off easily after your stitching has been completed, and comes in 8” and 3” widths. Acid neutral, it is safe with all your delicate fabrics. I have found a very satisfactory product similar in weight and texture to Stitch and Ditch that you can purchase inexpensively from your doctor....the paper from the exam table! Ask if they will give or sell you a roll. Sulky Tear Easy - another soft, lightweight stabilizer. I don’t find this one to tear away as easily and completely as Stitch and Ditch, and it is a bit more expensive.

Wash Away •

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Sulky Solvy - One advantage to wash away stabilizers is that they leave no extra thickness or bulk. They simply disappear when put into warm water. Solvy is a semi-transparent plastic film used for stabilizing, monogramming and machine embroidery. It is sold with full instructions on its use. It can be used on top of or underneath your fabric. I find that it takes several soakings to dissolve. Your fabric becomes stiff if it is not totally dissolved. Sulky Fabri Solvy - This is actually a fabric that washes away nicely. It is lightweight, and can be used for machine embroidery or stitching.

Cut Away •

Cut away stabilizers become a permanent part of your project. You simply trim them next to your stitching. They are not generally used on heirloom sewing projects. They are mid to heavier weight and are mainly used in machine embroidery, appliqués and monogramming. They are sold with full instructions enclosed.

Sticky •

Sulky Sticky - is used primarily for machine embroidery. It holds your fabric without having to hoop it, and then tears away.

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VâÜäxá tÇw cÉ|Çàá You will need to know how to clip and notch seams for turning on several projects. Below are the basic guidelines on what to do where.

Clipping Techniques for curves: Clip inside curves

• • •

Notch outside curves

The purpose of clipping and trimming your curved seam lines is to make your fabric lay flat after it is turned and pressed. Clipping means taking short “snips” with the scissors into the seam line. You will snip straight into, but not through the stitching on inside curves. Be careful. On outside curves, you will actually notch the fabric, so that when it is turned, there will not be too much fullness on the seam for the fabric to lay flat. You will again snip into, but not through the stitching, this time at an angle, using 2 snips to make a cut out V shape.

Clipping Corners: Clip into inside corners Clip across outside corners •

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You also need to eliminate extra fabric when an outside corner is turned. This time you will actually be clipping clear across the corner, at a 45’ angle, being careful not to clip your threads. Simply clip into an inside corner, but not through your stitching.

If you accidentally clip the thread in your stitching, re-stitch over the top of your first stitching prior to turning.

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[Éã àÉ g|x t fÖâtÜx ^ÇÉà

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Hold A in your left hand and cross over B (right hand). Wrap A once to the right around B, just like the first step in tying your shoelace (1). Cross A over B again. Wrap A to the left around B (2). Pull the free ends to tighten the knot. Remember it this way: Left over right and under; right over left and under.

2.

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c|Çàâv~á Pintucks make a beautiful addition to garments and heirloom sewing projects. Pintuck presser feet are available for most machines, and make stitching pintucks quick, easy, and effortless! Three items are essential for success in making pintucks. The Pintuck Presser Foot - Has several grooves (3, 5, or 7) under the bottom of the foot. The groove directly under the needle allows room for the fabric to be taken up into a pintuck. The other grooves ensure even spacing between pintucks when a previously stitched pintuck is put under another groove. The Double Needle - Thread your machine using two spools of thread, making sure one thread goes on each side of the tension disc, and then run a thread through each needle. Your bobbin stays the same. The bobbin will catch both threads, pulling them together to create the tuck. Double needles come in different sizes. The wider the needles, the deeper the pintuck. I find that a number 2.0 double needle makes a very nice pintuck on batiste fabric for heirloom sewing projects. Spray Starch - Spray the starch onto your fabric and press dry to stiffen the fabric and give a crisp pintuck that does not pucker.

Straight Pintucks • •

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Spray your fabric with spray starch. Press until dry. Mark with a washout marking pen, exactly where you want your first row to be placed. Mark your center pintuck first and work out from both sides. Insert double needle and thread machine with 2 spools of thread. Be sure threads go on each side of tension disc. Put pintuck foot onto your machine. Change upper thread tension to about 5—6. Use a stitch length of about 1.5 - 2.0. Always practice first to make sure that these are the correct adjustments for your machine. Stitch your first row. Turn your fabric around so you will be stitching in the opposite direction. Place the first stitched row into an outer groove on your foot, and use it as a guide for stitching the next row. Stitch the next row on the other side of the center. 14

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Continue stitching, working from side to side, and turning your fabric in opposite directions for stitching, until you have completed as many rows as you desire. Changing stitching directions will keep your fabric even, and prevent it from stretching out of shape. For the most pleasing look, always stitch an uneven number of pintucks within a group...3,5, or 7.

Curved Pintucks • • •

Starch fabric well. With washout marking pen, draw lines where you want the pintucks to be. Stitch, following the lines. Because you will be crossing different grain lines when stitching a curve, stitching at a faster than normal speed, as well as keeping a steady speed, will help to keep the amount of fabric taken up into the pintuck more even.

Joining both ends of a pintuck • • •

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Begin stitching your pintuck as you normally would, keeping the tail threads in back of your presser foot. Stop stitching about 3” before you are ready to meet your beginning stitching. Pull the beginning top threads through to the back side by pulling on the bobbin thread until the top loops show, and then pulling these loops through to the backside. With a square knot (page 10), tie all three threads together. Trim threads to 1/4” long. Now stitch directly over your first stitching, overlapping about 1/2 inch. Pull your ending threads through to the wrong side; tie a square knot and trim threads to 1/4”. If you are doing several rows of pintucks, move your starting and stopping spot several inches away from the first one. Your overlap should not show from the right side if you follow the directions above.

Pintuck points/corners •

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If you need to turn a corner, put your needle in down position, raise the presser foot, and twist your fabric to the new direction. Begin stitching once again. The ‘pucker’ will press out later. 15

_tvx \ÇáxÜà|ÉÇ Lace inserted into the design of a garment or article adds a touch of femininity, elegance and beauty. Inserting lace is really quite simple. • • • •

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Press your lace and starch the fabric you will be inserting it into. Lay the lace in exact position. Pin down the middle to hold in position. Place stabilizer under the area to be stitched. Stitch down both sides of the lace, in the same direction. --Use a short, narrow zigzag stitch or --If you have access to a newer machine, use the pinstitch, which is an heirloom machine stitch which looks similar to a blanket stitch. A wing needle is recommended for pinstitching. Do not backstitch. Tie the ends together and trim. Tear away the stabilizer on the back. Carefully trim out the fabric from behind the lace, using pocket scissors.

c|Ç fà|àv{|Çz Pinstitching looks similar to a blanket stitch. The straight edge goes just out side the lace edge into your fabric, and the crosswise stitches go over the edge and into the lace. • • • • • • • • • • •

Lay your insertion lace over the top of your fabric. Thread the top of your machine with a shiny rayon thread. You do not need to change the bobbin. Change your presser foot to the appliqué foot or a wide zigzag foot. Insert a wing needle. If your machine has built in heirloom stitches, set it to the pinstitch stitch. Set the tension to around 3.0. Use a stitch length of 2.0 and a 2.0 stitch width. Turning the hand wheel, lower the needle position. Make sure the needle will connect with the fabric and stitch sideways into the lace. Place stabilizer under your fabric and lace. Stitch your lace to your fabric. Tear away the stabilizer. Carefully cut away the fabric from underneath the lace. 16

câyy|Çz Puffing strips add a lot of interest to your project. They are basically strips that have been gathered evenly from both edges and pressed flat. You control the amount of fullness in them. Follow the directions below to make puffing strips that can be sewn into your projects: •

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Tear across the width of your fabric rather than cutting so you will be working with the true straight of grain. One width will give you a nice 15” - 18” puffing. Cut enough strips to equal about three times longer than you want your finished length to be. Make your strip 2 1/2” wide. Trim off excess threads from the tear. Press your strip - do not starch, yet. Because we are working with lightweight fabrics, set your stitch length at 2.5—3.0. Stitch down each side (only through one thickness) in the same direction. Do not backstitch. Stitch 1/2” from the edge of the strip (1). Stitch both rows from the top side. At the same time gently pull both bottom threads from the same end to create gathers. Keep pulling until you reach the desired fullness and gathers are even on both sides (2). Pin your gathered strip to your ironing board on the stitching at both ends. Spray your strip with starch. Gently set a warm iron down onto the gathered strip to flatten the gathers (3). Let dry completely before sewing onto your project.

YtÇvç `tv{|Çx fà|àv{xá • • •

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•

Find a stitch on your machine that you like. Re-thread the top thread with a rayon thread. Rayon is shiny. We recommend “Sulky”. Refer to your machine’s manual on adjustments to make for the stitch you have chosen. Adjust your tension, stitch width, stitch length, and change to the proper presser foot for the stitch you have chosen. Place a piece of stabilizer under your fabric, which will prevent your fabric from puckering. Stitch out a sample. When you have completed the fancy stitches on your projects, carefully tear away the stabilizer from the backside. Press with spray starch from the backside only. 17

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_tvx f{tÑ|Çz Laces can be curved and shaped into almost any design to add interest and richness to your project. • • • • •

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1.

Cut your piece of fabric, spray with starch and press dry. Do not starch your lace. Press a centerfold lengthwise and crosswise on your fabric to use for placement. With a washout marking pen, trace the outline of the design 2. onto your fabric, centering it with the centerfold creases. Place your fabric over a lace shaping board which is made for you to pin into as well as press on. Pin the outside edge of the lace all the way around the design. 3. Begin on a corner when possible, and leave the lace extended about 1” beyond the start of the design. Do not stretch the lace as you pin (1). On an inside point or corner, pin the lace where it lays naturally at the point, fold the lace back over itself, pin the outside point, and then continue pinning from the outside, 4. around your shape. Once you are all the way around the design, cut lace ends, leaving a 1” tail. Your insertion lace will have some thread in little loops on both of the outside edges. Pull this thread about three loops in from the end, on the inside lace edge (2). Gently pull this thread and it will gather in the excess lace until 5. it lays flat. You may need to adjust the gathers to make them even. Spray with starch and carefully press until dry. Once the lace dries, take the pins off from the shaping board, and lay them flat onto the lace to hold in place for stitching (3). Take your entire piece off the board. 6. Using a pinstitch on your machine, or a zigzag if you do not have that stitch, stitch around the outside of your design. Stitch only the shape. Do not stitch the extended beginning and ending lace (4). Be sure to use stabilizer underneath. Zigzag stitch the inside edge of the lace with extra fine sewing thread. Use a 1.5 stitch length, and 2.5 stitch width. Straight edges, as in squares Carefully trim away the fabric from behind the lace, and the or diamonds, need only be beginning and ending lace extensions (5). pinned on the outside and Zigzag stitch down the overlap on corners and points, and inside corners. Follow all carefully trim away any excess lace (6). other instructions. Press and starch a final time. 7. To miter an outside corner, place a pin on the outside corner, fold the lace back on itself, place pin on the inside corner. Continue on around curve or to next corner (7).

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]É|Ç|Çz YtuÜ|vá? _tvxá tÇw XÇàÜxwxâå Below are techniques for joining different mediums together. Your goal is to have secure seams, narrow and well finished, which do not show from the top side. Insertion laces and beading are treated the same. Fabric to Entredeux: • • • • • •

• • •

Do not trim fabric edge from the entredeux. Pin the entredeux and fabric right sides together. Stitch as close as possible to the edge of the entredeux hole border edge. Use a 2.0 stitch length. Cut off excess seam allowance by trimming to 1/4 inch from stitching. Zigzag the raw edges together, using a 1.5 stitch length and a 1.5 stitch width. Remember, when you zigzag, the zig goes into the fabric, and the zag goes just off the edge of the seam allowance. Your fabric should roll under the zigzag (1). Press the seam flat, as machine stitched. Open up your fabric and entredeux, and press the seam allowance toward the fabric (2). Handle gathered fabric (including puffing) the same as you handle flat fabric.

1.

2.

3.

Flat Lace to Entredeux: • • •

•

Trim the batiste from the edge of your entredeux next to the stitching (3). If you have one, put the edge joining foot onto your machine. With tear away stabilizer underneath, match the lace and entredeux edge, and zigzag stitch, with a stitch length 1.5, and stitch width 2.5. Be sure that the zig goes into as many holes on the entredeux as possible, and that the zag goes into the insertion lace heading (4). Tear away the stabilizer.

Flat Lace to Flat Lace: • •

Butt the two edges of laces together, side by side, but don’t overlap them. With tear away stabilizer underneath, zigzag the laces together using a 1.5 stitch length, and a 1.5 stitch width (5). Be sure that you catch both sides of the insertion lace heading.

Gathered Edging Lace to Flat Lace: •

4.

5.

6.

Heirloom edging laces have loop thread in the heading. You can gather the lace by gently pulling on this loop thread (6). 19

• •

Pull thread to gather the lace, distributing the gathers evenly. Butt the edges of the lace together, and with stabilizer underneath, zigzag stitch, with stitch length 1.5 and stitch width 2.5. Be sure to catch both lace headings in your stitching (7).

7.

Embroidered Lace to Fabric: • • • • •

• •

•

Because neither the lace nor the fabric has a finished edge, you will be making a narrow seam. Pin the embroidered lace and fabric right sides together. Stitch this seam at 1/4” seam allowance. Use a 2.0 stitch length. Cut off excess seam allowance by trimming to 1/8 inch from stitching. Zigzag the raw edges together, using a 1.5 stitch length and a 1.5 stitch width. Remember, when you zigzag, the zig goes into the fabric, and the zag goes just off the edge of the seam allowance (8). Press the seam flat. Open up the fabric and lace, and press the seam toward the fabric. Handle gathered fabric (including puffing) the same as you handle flat fabric.

Fabric to Insertion Lace: • • • • • • •

Follow the directions for “Pinstitching” on page 13 if you have a machine with built in stitches. Use a wing needle. You may also zigzag stitch your lace to fabric. Lay your insertion lace over your fabric. Pin in place. Place stabilizer under your fabric and lace. Zigzag stitch your lace to your fabric. Stitch length 1.5, stitch width 2.5. Tear away the stabilizer from the backside. Carefully cut away the fabric from underneath the lace (9).

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Other Notes: •

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If you find that after you have torn away your stabilizer that you have some skips, just go back and stitch over the skipped area again with extra fine sewing thread. No need to take out the previous stitching - it should not show. When gathering a lightweight, fine batiste fabric, use a regular stitch length of 2.0. Pull up the gathers and disperse evenly. If you are joining them to lace, they need to be pressed with the tip of the iron to flatten them. When ever you have lace crossing lace, the lace on the top side of the fabric will be the dominant lace, and everything underneath it will be trimmed away. Do not sew where the dominant lace crosses or you will not be able to trim underneath.

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f{tÜ~á gxxà{ Sharks teeth are one of the most outstanding techniques in heirloom. This technique looks especially nice on the skirt of a little girl’s dress. It is fun and easy to do, and requires only fabric and a ruler.

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• •

•

If you wish to make a row of five 1” tucks, you will need to cut your batiste about 10” longer than you normally would to allow for the fabrics taken up by the tucks. See the chart on the next page for different width tucks. Begin by starching and pressing your fabric. Starch both sides and press your fabric well. Draw a line with a washout marking pen all the way across the fabric, where you want the middle tuck to begin. Press a crease on this line. Mark with your washout marking pen two lines on each side of the center crease. For 1” tucks, mark lines 3” and 6” on both sides. Press a crease on these lines (1). For other sizes, see the chart on the next page. Fold the fabric back on the crease and machine stitch each individual tuck. In this case, you will stitch 1” from the crease edge. Continue to stitch all five tucks (2). Press the tucks individually to set the stitches. Then turn the fabric over, and from the backside, press all the tucks in one direction. The bottom of each tuck should meet the stitched edge of the next tuck (3). Starting at the top row, clip a straight cut the depth of the tuck in the exact center. Fold the cut edges up under the tuck, all the way to the seam allowance, forming an upside down V. Press. It sometimes helps to fold the tuck up to position the cut edge; this enables you to make sharper points. Place a small piece of Wonder Tape on the folded piece to hold it in place. Repeat for row two, clipping where the two bottom edges of the upside down V meet the second row. This distance should match the clip spacing on the chart on the next page. Accuracy and patience will produce nice sharp points (4). Repeat this for the next three rows. Turn the edges up, press, and hold in place with Wonder Tape (5). Thread machine with rayon thread, and select either a pinstitch (without a wing needle) or another decorative stitch. A zigzag with extra fine sewing thread will also work. You will pinstitch just inside the original stitching on the tuck, catching the turned up edges that make the sharks teeth. Stitch the entire length of the tuck with stabilizer underneath (6). Be careful not to catch the tuck above in your stitching.

21

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

•

•

Check to make sure you caught all the turned up edges in your stitching. If not, tack by hand. If your stitching goes outside the original tuck, the tuck will not lay flat and even. Starch and press your fabric and tucks from the backside (7).

Chart Explanation: A. Select the size tucks you A. would like to make. Size of B. Cut your fabric this Tucks much longer than your pattern to allow extra fabric for the tucks. C. This is the distance 1” between the creases you mark and press. 3/4” D. This is the seam allowance you will 1/2” stitch from each creased edge to form the tuck. E. This is the distance between each clip mark on the same tuck. See pattern in box. F. If you plan to repeat the pattern several times, as in making a skirt, you may want to start from the bottom, or you may distance the top points this far apart.

7.

Measurements for 5 row Sharks Teeth B. C. Cut Fabric Distance longer between creases

D. Width of stitching

E. Clip spacing

2”

F. Distance between starting points

10”

3”

1”

10”

8”

2 1/4”

3/4”

1 1/2”

7.5”

6”

1 1/2”

1/2”

1”

5”

Clip into your tucks following this pattern.

fxã|Çz g|щ g|щfxã|Çz `tv{|Çx cÜÉuÄxÅá • • • • • •

The first thing to do if you are experiencing problems with your sewing machine is rethread your machine. This generally takes care of a most problems. Change your needles often...whenever you begin a new project. You may need to change three or four times before completing your quilt project. Keep your machine clean. Using a soft brush, clean the lint from the lower part of your machine after each project. Lint collects around the bobbin casing and can cause problems. If using a twin needle for pintucks, be sure each thread goes on different sides of the tension disc when threading. Make sure your bobbin is correctly inserted. Never change the tension on the bobbin case. Keep your machine oiled. We suggest oiling every three months. 22

gâÜÇxw Xwzx TÑÑÄ|Öâ° With Wash Away Basting Thread This is a wonderful, simple technique for smooth and accurately turned appliqué edges. • • • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • •

You will need 2 pieces of fabric cut the same size. Starch and press dry your appliqué fabric pieces, front and backing. Trace the pattern stitching lines onto your front fabric (1). Draw the cutting line onto your fabric, but do not cut out on this line until later. Set your machine up with wash away basting thread threaded on the top. Set your stitch length at 2.5. Stitch on the stitching line using stabilizer underneath. Remove the stabilizer and cut out on the cutting line, which will be 1/4” from the stitched edge (2). Clip and notch where needed for it to turn and lay smoothly. See page 10 (3). Carefully cut a small slit in the back fabric, near the center, to turn your appliqué right side out. Turn right side out, carefully poke out points, and press into shape with a dry iron (4). Put a small amount of water into a bowl. With your fingers, dampen the seam line. The upper stitches will dissolve. You may need to add a bit more if they don’t dissolve right away. Don’t force the layers to separate. Just add more water. Open up and you have your appliqué with all the edges turned perfectly. Press completely dry. Place and center your appliqué piece onto your fabric. Pin in place. Keep pins away from the edges to be stitched. Lay stabilizer behind your fabric, and pin to fabric near outer edges. You have the choice of finishing the appliqué edge several ways: pin stitch, straight stitch, zigzag, or hand blind stitch the appliqué. Stitch the appliqué in place (6). Tear off stabilizer from behind the fabric. Starch and press well.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

23

`tv{|Çx f{xÄÄ Xwz|Çz This stitch makes a cute edging for gathered ruffles, as well as a sweet finish for baby garment necklines, sleeves, and hems. • • •

•

•

Lightly starch and press your fabric. Fold in half lengthwise. Set your machine for the blind hem stitch, setting the stitch length at 2.0, and the stitch width at 4.0. Change the tension to between 6 and 7. You will also need to mirror image the pattern so that the “bite” of the stitch falls towards the fold of the fabric. Practice on a sample first. The straight stitches will stitch parallel to the fabric, and the zigzag should just go over the fold of the fabric. Because of the tension change, this zigzag stitch will pull the fabric in, creating a shell, or scalloped looking edge. For single thicknesses, use a rolled hem foot and roll and stitch the hem in one step.

fxtÅ Y|Ç|á{xá yÉÜ [x|ÜÄÉÉÅ cÜÉ}xvàá A.

French Seam (A)

Joining Seams (B)

French seams are finished seams that are used wherever a seam might show. For 1/4” seams, zigzag stitch against the edge of the seam, wrong sides together. Use a stitch length of 1.5, and stitch width of 2.5. The fabric should roll under the zigzag. Press open, and crease back over the zigzagged seam. The right sides are now together. Straight stitch a scant 1/4” seam allowance. Using the zigzag for the first seam helps eliminate small threads in the final seam.

B.

24

Joining seams are used in heirloom to attach two fabrics together. For 1/4” seams, stitch the first seam at 1/4” seam allowance. Zigzag the edges together. The fabric should roll under the zigzag, giving you about a 1/8” finished seam allowance.

YtÇvç Z|yà Utz Finished size: 8” X 12” A lovely gift bag anyone would like to receive. You will be surprised how beautiful and easy heirloom sewing is. Materials and Supplies: • 1/3 yard batiste • 1/2 yard edging lace • Colored rayon thread

• • •

1/4 yard insertion lace 2 yards of 1/8” ribbon 1/2 yard beading lace 1.

Instructions: • Cut a piece of batiste 10 1/2” X 20” for the bag body. • Cut a piece of batiste 1 1/2” X 20” for the header. • Starch the entire body piece and header piece. • With washout marking pen, mark a line 5” in from one end of the body piece (1). • Lay a piece of insertion lace down the middle of this line. Follow the directions on page 13. Be sure to use stabilizer underneath. Remove the stabilizer after stitching, before beginning the pintucks. • Draw five lines on each side of the insertion lace, spacing them a distance of 3/8” from each other. • Stitch out two rows of pintucks on each side of the lace insertion, as well as the two outside rows on each side. Set your machine up with a double needle and two spools of thread on the top. Follow the instructions on page 11 for the machine settings and information on stitching the pintucks (2). • Find a fancy machine stitch on your machine, put the single needle back in, place stabilizer on the back, and stitch a fancy machine stitch down the third line from the lace insertion. Also stitch down the middle of the header piece (3). • Trim your bag to 10” X 17”. • Lay the bag piece out flat, and sew the beading lace to the top. Follow lace insertion directions. • Sew the header batiste piece to the beading. • Now stitch the edging lace to the other edge of the header (4). • Fold the bag in half, right side out, and using a French seam, page 21, sew the bottom of the bag and all the way up the side of the bag. • Beginning on the seam edge, run a ribbon through the holes in the beading all the way around for closure. Run a second ribbon from the other side (5). 25

2.

3.

4

5.

fãxxà _täxÇwxÜ ftv{xà Finished size: 7 1/2” X 7 1/2” Heirloom stitched sachets look lovely in closets and dresser drawers….the sweet fragrance helps to freshen and protect your clothing. Materials and Supplies: • 1/4 yard batiste • 1/4 yard ribbon • 1 cup lavender potpourri

1.

Instructions: • Cut a 7” X 7” square of fabric. Starch and press well. • With washout marking pen, mark a line down the center of your square. • Center beading on this square, and either pin stitch or zigzag in place. • Mark lines on both sides of beading, 1/4” away from outside edge. • Select a fancy machine stitch to stitch down both sides. • Set your machine up to do pintucks. Follow instructions on page 11. • Mark a line 3/8” away from the fancy machine stitch on each side. • Stitch your first row on this line. Using the outside groove in your pintuck foot as a guide, put in two more rows of pintucks on each side. • Press and starch well. • Insert ribbon into your beading lace (1). • Trim your square to 5 1/2” X 5 1/2”. • Cut a 2” X 45” strip of fabric (the width of the fabric) for borders. • Sew the strip to the two sides of your square at 1/4” seam allowance, and trim the ends even. • Now sew the strip to the top and bottom edges. Trim the ends even (2). • Cut two more pieces of fabric, approximately 8” X 8”, or the exact size of the top square. One piece is the top lining, the other the sachet back. • Layer these pieces together...lining, top fabric (right side up), then backing (3). • Pin and stitch the outside edges at 1/4” seam allowance. Leave a 3” opening on one side edge to insert lavender. • Clip corners, turn right side out, and press (4). • Stitch in the ditch (page 53) on the seam attaching the borders. Leave a 3” opening, on the same side as the outer opening (5). • Lightly stuff the center section with 1 cup of sweet lavender potpourri. • Now machine stitch the border opening closed. • By hand, slip stitch the outside opening edge closed (6). • Cut the remaining ribbon in half. Holding the two pieces together, tie into a bow. Hand tack it to the top of your sachet, letting the strings dangle down. You may purchase sweet lavender buds at our website under sewing supplies. Please go to www.bunkhousesewing.com 26

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

WÜxááç [tÄy fÄ|Ñ A nice, lightweight, cotton, great for summer, half slip is difficult to find. This simple project shows you how to make your own...and much prettier than you’ll find in the stores. Materials and Supplies: • 2 1/2 yards of cotton fabric • Laces

• • •

Wash away basting thread Lingerie elastic (waist measure - 5”) Rayon thread

Make Your Pattern: • Take your hip measurement and add 8”. Divide this in half for panel width measurement. • Determine what you want the finished length to be, and add 7” to allow for casing, hem and tucks. • Cut two pieces, on the bias (1), the length and width above (1, 2). Instructions: • Cut out your pattern. We will make the turned edge appliqué hemline first. • With washout marking pen, trace the scallops from the table topper project on page 88 onto the bottom edge of one piece with the tips of the scallops 1/2” from the edge of the fabric. • Pin both pieces of fabric together along the scallop lines (3). • Thread your machine with wash away basting thread. • Stitch on the scallop line using 2.5 stitch length. • Trim this seam to 1/4” seam allowance. • Clip across the points, and clip along the curved edges. • Turn right side out and press. Gently poke out the points for nicely shaped scallops. • With your fingers, apply a small amount of water along the stitching edge to dissolve the basting thread. If it does not dissolve, add a bit more water. • Gently open up both skirt pieces. You should have beautifully shaped scallops, with nicely turned edges. • Turn the bottom scalloped edge up so that the points of the scallops are 3” from the fold edge. • Press bottom hemline fold in place, and press scallops completely dry before stitching (5). • Pin the scallops in place, then stitch in place. You may pinstitch, or straight stitch with your machine (6). With washout marking pen, mark each skirt piece as follows: 1st line - 4 1/2” from hemline for 1/4” tuck; 2nd line - 5 1/2” for 1/4” tuck; 3rd line - 6 1/2” for 1/4” tuck; 4th line - 7” for fancy machine stitching; 5th line - 7 1/2” for edge of 3/4” lace insertion; 6th line - 8 3/4” for fancy machine stitching; 27

1.

2.

3.

4.

6.

7.

8.

5.

• • • • • • • • •

7th line - 9” for pintuck; 8th line - 9 1/2” for pintuck; Mark five more rows, 1/4” apart for a grouping of pintucks; Mark a row 1/2” up, then another 1/2” for 2 more pintucks; Mark your last line 1” from the last pintuck for a fancy machine stitch. Stitch out each of the above techniques on the lines you marked on both fabric pieces. This will give you a pretty 10 1/2” slip border (7). Stitch side seams at 5/8” seam allowance from top edge to within 10” from the bottom (the open area will become the bottom side slits). Press seam open, and continue pressing the 5/8” seam allowance to the hemline (8). Topstitch the slits in place using presser foot width (9). Cut elastic 5” shorter than your waist measurement (3” for children). Sew elastic ends together (10). Divide elastic into fourths, and fabric into fourths. Pin each section together (11). Stretch elastic and zigzag stitch the elastic to the fabric, stretching and stitching from pin to pin. Trim away excess fabric on the underside of the slip, above the zigzag (12).

9.

10

11.

12.

Turn your slip pattern into a

VÄtááç fàÜt|z{à f~|Üà • • •

1.

With a few adjustments, you can make yourself a fancy straight skirt! Select a heavier cotton/polyester fabric rather than batiste. Add 1” to length to make an elastic casing at the top.

Skirt Embellishment: • Make your scallops for the bottom hemline as in the half slip. • Stitch the skirt pieces together on one side seam only. • Stitch 3 rows of 1/4” tucks, followed by three rows of fancy stitches. • Stitch the other side seam, leaving a 6” opening. Topstitch the opening. Elastic Waistline: • Press the top edge under 1” to the back side. • Stitch 7/8” from the fold line, leaving a 3” opening to insert elastic. • Measure your waist and subtract 2”. Cut 3/4” non-roll elastic this length. • Insert elastic through the casing (2). • Overlap ends and zigzag stitch together (3). • Slide elastic back into casing, and stitch opening closed. 28

2.

3.

You can make this exquisite

[x|ÜÄÉÉÅ ftÅÑÄxÜ dâ|Äà Finished Size: 51” X 51”

Yardage, Notions and Guidelines for Heirloom Quilt Laces

Yardage & Notions Batiste Fabric: Yardage is given individually if you would like to use different colors for different parts of the quilt. • • • • •

Lace yardage is approximately what is needed for completing the quilt. You will need either insertion or beading lace for the sashing, but not both.

Blocks - 2 1/2 yards Small sashing squares - 1/2 yard Sashing - 1 yard Outside ruffle - 1 yard Backing and top underlay - 3 yards

Insertion Lace: • Blocks - 8 yards • Sashing - 10 yards Beading Lace: • Blocks - 2 yards • Sashing - 10 yards

Batting: Match the fiber content of the batting to the fiber content of your fabric. •

Edging Lace: • We give directions to make our own outside ruffle. If you would like to purchase flat lace to make your ruffle: • Outside ruffle - 6 yards • If you would like to purchase pregathered lace instead: • Outside ruffle - 3 yards

1 1/2 yards batting

Thread: • • •

•

6 spools extra fine white 3 spools rayon white 3 colored rayon for machine Embroidery stitches OR Hand embroidery threads - several skeins of three pastel colors

Entredeux: • Blocks - 4 yards Silk Ribbon: • Blocks - 2 yards • Sashing (when using beading) - 10 yards

29

You will be making each of the following nine squares, while you learn a variety of heirloom sewing techniques. Each square may be embellished with a touch of embroidery, either by machine or by hand, and silk ribbon. Traditional heirloom used soft, pastel colors. Block 1

Block 2

Block 3

Pintucks, Lace Insertion, Machine Embroidery

Lace Shaping

Pintucks, Lace Shaping

Block 4

Block 5

Block 6

Lace Shaping, Embroidery, Curved Pintucks

Entredeux, Joining Laces

Puffing, Entredeux, Lace Shaping

Block 7

Block 8

Block 9

Sharks Teeth, Embroidery

Turned Edge Appliqué, Bias Pintucks, Embroidery

Pintucks, Turned Edge Appliqué, Lace Shaping

30

Zâ|wxÄ|Çxá yÉÜ VÉÇáàÜâvà|Çz lÉâÜ dâ|Äà •

You will always be asked to cut your blocks larger than you want them finished. Many of the stitches will take up extra fabric, plus you cannot start a lot of stitches right on the edge. It’s much easier to trim your block to size than to have to remake the block because it is too small!

•

You will always be asked to spray starch your block and press it completely dry before you begin working with it. The exception to this rule will be in preparing and making your puffing strips.

•

Because we are dealing with lightweight fabric, you should always use stabilizer under your fabric and laces when stitching them on the sewing machine. The exception to this rule is when you are stitching pintucks, and preparing your puffing strips for gathering. I prefer a tear-away stabilizer, like Stitch and Ditch.

•

Use a washout marking pen for all marking.

•

Refer to the more detailed instruction pages if you have questions when stitching the blocks.

•

If your spray starch turns brown on your fabric, you are applying it too thick. Several light coats are better than one heavy coat. The brown spots will washout with water, so please don’t throw your work away to start over!

•

Be creative—learn the techniques and you can make the block any way you want.

•

I suggest you pace yourself. We want you to enjoy this project. Make just one block each week. Once you know how to do lace insertion you may want to cut your sashing, and complete one sashing strip each week along with your block. • Feel free to add embellishments to the finished blocks. Hand and/or machine embroidery is very nice. Traditionally, embellishments are done in soft, pastel colors. Instructions on how to make the different hand embroidery stitches as well as patterns are at the end of the book. • Do not backstitch anywhere it may show. Instead, leave long tails and pull the top thread through to the back side, tie with a square knot (page 10), and trim threads to 1/4”. • Purchase the best quality fabrics and laces you can afford. Quality does affect the final appearance. 31

dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ cÜÉ}xvà 6D

1.

Lace Insertion - Pintucks - Machine Embroidery 2.

• • • • • •

• • • •

•

• • •

Cut out a 17” X 17” square of batiste. Starch the entire block piece, on both sides. Let dry very well. Do not use a steam iron (1). Press crease down the center (lengthwise) of the fabric block. Lay insertion lace down middle of block, centering on crease. Pin stitch (or zigzag stitch) in place following the directions on page 13. With a washout marking pen, mark 1” on each side of lace. Following the marks on each side of the lace, stitch a row of pintucks ( see page 11). Placing the last stitched pintuck in the outside groove of your presser foot, stitch pintucks until you have a group of three on each side. From last row of pintucks, mark a line 2” away with washout marking pen. Stitch a group of five pintucks on each side. Your pintucks are now complete. From back side, press pintucks, and re-starch fabric. Draw a line between lace insertion and first set of pintucks. Also, draw a line between the two sets of pintucks on each side of your block. Find a fancy machine stitch on your machine, and stitch down the rows you have just marked. Be sure to use stabilizer underneath. You may want to use some colored rayon thread. If you do not have a machine embroidery stitch, select one of the hand embroidery stitches at the end of the book to stitch onto your block. Using water, remove the washout marking pen markings from your block. Press and starch your block. Trim to a 13” finished square.

Feel free to change the order of the techniques - be creative! Just be sure to use all three techniques on this block.

32

3.

4.

5.

6.

Placement Lines for Quilt Block #1 1/4 of finished square

Pintucks

Fancy Machine Stitch

Pintucks

Fancy Machine Stitch

Center—Align with lengthwise crease

Insertion Lace

Top

Center—Align with crosswise crease

This represents 1/4 of the square. This is a suggestion only. Feel free to design your own.

33

dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ cÜÉ}xvà 6E Lace Shaping - Pin Stitching

1.

• • • •

•

• • • • • • • • • •

Cut a 17” X 17” square of batiste. Spray starch your block and press dry. Press a centerfold lengthwise and crosswise in your fabric. With a washout marking pen, trace the design from the next page onto your block, lining the center lines up with the creased folds (1). Following the lace shaping directions on page 15, pin the outside edge, gather the inside to fit, and starch, press and repin your hearts to prepare for stitching them (2). Pinstitch with rayon thread (or zigzag) the outside, and then zigzag the inside edges of your hearts with extra fine sewing thread. Stitch only the shape. Do not stitch the lace that extends beyond the bottom of the heart. This will be trimmed away (3). Carefully, trim the fabric from behind the lace. Trim off the extra lace overlapping the bottom point (4). Zigzag stitch (1.5 stitch length and 1.5 stitch width) down the center of the overlap on the top and bottom point of the heart (5). Carefully, trim the excess lace from these two points (6). Repeat this procedure for all four hearts. When all are completed remove markings, using water. Press and starch entire block. Trim block to a finished 13” square, with the hearts centered (8). Feel free to add some embroidery embellishment to this square (by machine or hand). Directions and designs for hand embroidery begin on page 93.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

34

Placement Lines for Quilt Block #2 1/4 of finished block Top

Center—Align with lengthwise crease

Pattern—Actual Heart Size and Shape This heart is a pattern only. Follow those on fold for placement.

Center—Align with crosswise crease.

This is 1/4 the size of your block. Make four actual size hearts, placing them according to this diagram. 35

dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6F Lace Shaping - Pintuck Insertion 1.

• • •

•

• • •

Cut a 17” X 17” square of batiste for your block. Spray starch and press dry (1). Press a crease lengthwise and crosswise in your fabric. This will help you in placing your two hearts. Carefully find the placement for your overlapping hearts, using the heart placement and guidelines on the next page. Trace onto your fabric with a washout marking pen. Follow lace shaping directions as in your last project. Pinstitch (or zigzag only the outside edges of your lace hearts. Do not stitch the inside curves (2). Trim away all the fabric from inside of the hearts, and cut off the lace that extended beyond the bottom point. Zigzag the points of the lace at the top and bottom points (3). Trim away the excess lace from behind the points (4).

2.

3.

4.

5.

• • • • • • • • • • •

Cut another piece of fabric, 17” X 8”. Starch and press dry. Prepare your machine for pintucks. Pintuck this entire piece of fabric, lengthwise, placing pintucks 1/2” apart (5). Cut the fabric in half. This will give you two pieces of pintucked fabric, one for each heart, each approximately 7” X 8”. Lay the pintuck fabric behind the heart, and pin in place (6). Zigzag stitch the inside curve of the lace to the pintuck fabric. Trim off excess pintuck fabric from behind the lace (7). Repeat for second heart. Starch and press your block well from the backside. Trim block to a finished 13” square (8). Feel free to add some embroidery to the two outside corners of this design.

36

6.

7.

8.

f{tÑx yÉÜ dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6F

This is the actual size of the heart. Trace 2 hearts, overlapping them, onto your block.

37

dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 G Curved Pintucks - Lace Shaping - Embroidery

• • • •

•

• • • • •

•

• • •

• •

Cut a 17” X 17” square of batiste. Starch and press well. Press a crease on your fabric, lengthwise and crosswise (1). Slide the large oval pattern on the next page under your fabric and with a washout marking pen, draw the design onto your fabric piece. Using the lace shaping techniques, pin outside edge of lace on the line, pull threads to make inside edge fit, starch and re-pin lace to fabric (2). Pinstitch outside edge with a wing needle. Pinstitch the inside edge with a regular needle, or zigzag the edge. Do not cut out behind the lace - this comes later. Give your fabric a good starching and pressing. Set your machine up for pintucks. Line up the edge of your pintuck presser foot next to the outside edge of the lace. Stitch around the oval to within 3” of your starting point. Pull your starting threads through to the backside, tie a square knot (page 10), and trim ends to 1/4”. Now, continue stitching until you overlap your first stitching about 3/4”. Leave tail ends long. Pull to the backside, tie a square knot, and trim to 1/4”. Line up your second row by putting the first row in the last slot on your pintuck foot. Begin at a different place on the oval, and end by overlapping stitching as above. Stitch a third row, lining up the same as the second (3). Starch and press from the wrong side. Set your machine up for machine embroidery, or find a picture in the embroidery designs section to transfer onto your fabric for hand embroidery. Be sure to center the design on your square. Hand embroidery stitching instructions can be found on page 93. Once embroidery is complete, starch and press from the backside. Trim to a 13” finished square (4).

38

1.

2.

3.

4.

Large Oval Placement and Lines for Block #4 and Lovely Shrug, misses size

Small Oval Placement and Lines for Lovely Shrug, girls size

Lengthwise crease

Crosswise Crease

39

dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ H Joining Laces - Entredeux

•

• •

•

•

•

•

• • • • • • • • • •

Cut a variety of laces, beading, entredeux and fabrics about 16 inches long. Cut enough that when they are sewn together they will make a sewn strip at least seven inches wide. Lay your laces in an interesting placement. It’s nice to use entredeux next to fabrics and embroidered lace (1). Press and starch your laces and fabric. Following the directions on page 16 and 17, stitch your laces together. Look for specific directions on the following: ..Joining fabric to entredeux ..Joining flat lace to entredeux ..Joining flat lace to flat lace (2,3) ..Joining embroidered lace to fabric ..Joining fabric to lace insertion Be sure to note the stitch length and stitch width for each application. If you “missed” a spot when stitching, simply go over it again. If you are using extra fine sewing thread that matches your fabric, it will not show and you need not take the original stitching out. Always use a stabilizer underneath your fabric, and begin with the center lace. Remember that after you stitch on a piece of lace, turn your block and stitch the next piece of lace from the other direction. This will prevent your piece from shifting. If you used a fabric strip, you may want to add pintucks or fancy machine stitches to make it more interesting. Complete that process at this time. If you used beading, insert your ribbon now. Remove stabilizer (4). Your strip is now approximately 7”+ wide and about 16” long. Press and starch well. Cut your strip into two, 7” squares (5). Cut two, 7” square fabric pieces. Press and starch these fabric pieces. Lay them out in the four square pattern shown (6). Stitch the top lace and plain square together. Repeat for the bottom. Now, stitch the top and bottom rectangles together. Starch, press and trim to a 13” finished square (7). Add embroidery embellishment on the plain squares if desired.

40

1.

2.

3.

4.

5

6.

7.

dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 I

1.

Puffing - Lace Shaping

•

• • • • •

• • • • • • • • •

•

10.

2.

Cut a 17 X 7” piece of batiste for center diamonds, and two 17” X 3” pieces batiste for the outside edges. Starch all three pieces well. Cut two pieces of batiste, 2 1/2” wide by the width of the fabric (42 - 45” long). Do not starch; these pieces are for the puffing. Cut four pieces of entredeux 17” long. Fold in half, and press a crease down the middle, lengthwise and crosswise, of your 17” X 7” center fabric (1). 4. Trace the lines for the lace shaping diamonds on the next page onto your fabric, centering on the crease. Following the lace shaping guidelines on page 15, pin in place and stitch the diamonds. Use a pinstitch on the outside edges, and a narrow zigzag on the insides using extra fine sewing thread (2). Carefully cut out the fabric from behind the lace (3). Using water, remove the markings from your fabric. Starch well, and then trim your piece to 17” X 6” (4). Prepare your 2 strips of puffing according to the directions on page 6. 14. Starch the finished puffing well (5, 6, 7).). Apply entredeux to both sides of the puffing, treating the puffing as you would a piece of fabric. Be sure to press your seam allowance toward the puffing. The holes for entredeux must “show”, with no fabric behind (8). Once the puffing and entredeux are complete, sew a strip to each side of the center diamond section (9). Now sew the outside fabric pieces (17” X 3”) onto the outside 8. edge of the puffing entredeux (10). Starch a final time and trim your block to a 13” finished square, centering the diamonds. You should have 1/2” seam allowance on the outside edge of the top and bottom diamond (11). A small embroidery embellishment in each of the diamonds makes a nice finish (12). 11.

12.

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3.

5.

7.

9.

Placement Guidelines for Puffing Square 1/4 of quilt block

Top

Entredeux

Puffing

Entredeux

Center—Align with lengthwise crease

Lace Shaping Outside Edge

Center—Align with crosswise crease

42

Pintucks or Machine Embroidery on Fabric

dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 J Sharks Teeth—A favorite of all, as well as quick and easy. 1.

We will be stitching one sharks tooth, 5 row pattern in a 1” width. You will want to refer to the detailed instructions on page 18 for making sharks teeth. 2. • • • • •

•

• • • •

Cut a piece of batiste 24” X 17”. Starch and press both sides. With washout marking pen, mark and press creases according to the chart for 1” tucks on page 19 (1). Stitch all five tucks, using a 2.5 stitch length, and a 1” seam allowance (2). Press each tuck individually to set the stitches, and then all in one 3. direction from the back side (3). Clip and turn edges up to form upside down V’s (4). Press in place, and secure with a piece of Wonder Tape. Work with these to produce nice sharp teeth. See detailed instructions and follow the chart on page 18 (5). Pin stitch or decorative stitch just inside your prior stitching line on each tuck, to secure turned up teeth sections (6). Check, after stitching, to see that all edges were caught in the stitching. If not, 4. hand stitch in place. With water, remove original line markings. Starch and press entire piece from backside. Trim to a 13” finished square (7). You may add some decorative hand or machine embroidery on the top or bottom of the square if you desire (8).

6.

8.

7.

43

5.

dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 K Bias Pintucks Turned Edge Border Appliqué You will have an opportunity to learn to stitch pintucks on the bias, and the wonderful use of wash away basting thread for all kinds of appliqué applications. • • •

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• • • • • • • • • • • •

•

Cut two 17” X 17” squares of batiste. One will be for the pintucks, the other for the appliqué. Starch and press both fabric pieces well. We will make the pintucks first. Fold the square in half diagonally, corner to opposite corner, and press. Fold in half the other way and press. Draw a 12 1/2” square box in the middle of the square, on the straight of grain (1). Use these lines as a guide for where to start and stop your pintucks. Be sure to start and stop outside the box. Using one of your pressed diagonal creases, draw lines 1” apart with your washout marking pen. Repeat for the other diagonal. Set your machine up for pintucks. Stitch all the pintucks on one diagonal direction, then stitch the pintucks going the other direction. Remember to stitch alternating rows in opposite directions to prevent shifting (1). Using water, remove the marking pen lines. Lightly press pintucks from backside. Set aside this section while you make the appliqué. Fold the second 17” square of fabric in half and press. Trace the pattern stitching and cutting lines, page 43, onto your 4. folded fabric (2). Do not cut out on cutting line until later. Set your machine up with wash away basting thread threaded on the top. Set your stitch length at 2.5. Stitch, using stabilizer under your fabric, on the dark stitching line (3). Remove the stabilizer and cut out on the cutting line (4). Clip where needed for appliqué to turn and lay smoothly. 5. Follow the guide on page 43. See instructions on page 10. Turn right side out, carefully poke out points, and press into shape with a dry iron. Pour a small amount of water into a bowl. With your fingers, dampen the seam line. The stitches will dissolve. You may need to add a bit more if they don’t dissolve right away. Open up and you have your border appliqué with all the edges turned perfectly (5). 44

1.

2.

3.

6. • • • •

• • • • •

Place and center your appliqué piece over the top of the lattice pintucked piece. Pin in place well. Keep pins away from turned edges, where you will be stitching (6). Lay stabilizer behind your block, and pin it near the outer edges. Using rayon thread on the top and a regular bobbin, pin stitch, straight stitch, zigzag, or hand blind stitch the appliqué in place. A needle down position is helpful if your machine has one because of the numerous points and corners in this design (7). Tear off stabilizer from behind block. Trim excess pintuck fabric from back side of block, next to the stitching. Press block from the wrong side. Trim block, centering appliqué to a finished 13” square. Feel free to add decorative stitching around the outside edge to emphasize the design, or add an embroidery (by hand or machine) in the middle (8).

7.

8.

cÜxààç XçxzÄtáá Vtáx Use this pretty case for storing your sunglasses and preventing scratches. • • • • •

•

• • • • • • •

Cut 8” X 9” rectangles from batting, backing, and underlining. Cut 10” X 10” square from outer fabric. Following the instructions on page 22, stitch out the decorative stitching for the fancy gift bag on your 10” square of batiste. After it has been stitched, trim it to 8” X 9”, the length of the rectangle parallel to the stitching (1). Pin together and treat the decorative top piece and the interlining as one piece (A). Pin and treat the batting and backing fabric as one piece (B). Placing the right sides together, sew the top of A and B at 1/2” seam allowance (2). Trim off batting from seam allowance and topstitch the seam (3). Fold this long rectangle in half lengthwise and pin, right sides together. Stitch the side and batiste bottom edge at 1/2” seam allowance, leaving open the lining end for turning it right side out (4). Clip corners, trim off batting from seam allowance, and zigzag the edges. Turn right side out (5). Turn under the seam allowance of the lining opening and stitch closed with a hand whip stitch (5). Push the lining inside the outer piece (6). Wow - that was quick and fun! 45

9”

Top edge

1. 8”

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

Quilt Block # 8 Turned Edge Border Appliqué Draw onto 17” X 17”square fabric piece. Do not cut out until after stitching is completed.

Stitching Line

Full Size Appliqué Pattern

After stitching, clip into, but not through the stitching lines in the places shown below.

Place on Fold

Clip into inside corners, across outside corners, and into curves. This allows your fabric to lay flat once it has been turned.

Cutting Line

6

46

dâ|Äà UÄÉv~ 6 L Pintucks - Turned Edge Appliqué Lace Shaping Cut a 17” X 17” square of batiste. Starch well and press. We will make the pintucks first. Fold the square in half and mark the center line with a washout marking pen. From there, mark 1” from both sides of the center line until the entire square has been marked. • Follow the directions for pintucks on page 11, and stitch out on all the marked lines (1). • Press lightly from the back side. • Find the center pintuck, and mark the lace shaping design on page 46 onto the block. • Using the lace shaping techniques, directions on page 15, pin the outside edge, pull the inside edge, starch and re-pin the lace to your fabric. • Pinstitch, using stabilizer underneath, the outside edge with a wing needle. Be sure to stitch both sides of the bottom loop extensions See pattern for edges to be pinstitched (2). • Trim out behind the lace, next to the pinstitching of the loop and the extensions. • Cut out, starch, and press a 12” square piece of fabric. • Lay this fabric under the open loop, and pinstitch or zigzag stitch the inside edge (3). • Trim away excess fabric next to the zigzag edge, from under the lace. Turned Edge Appliqué: • Cut two 6” fabric squares for the appliqué. • Press and starch. Trace bow design (page 46) onto the top square using washout marking pen (4). The design is reversed from the final appliqué. Do not cut out on the cutting line. • Set your machine up with wash away basting thread on the top. • Stitch on this line using wash away basting thread. • Once you have stitched your bow, trim to a 1/4” seam allowance around the outside edge cutting line (5). • Refer to the sheet on clipping and notching points and curves on page 10. Clip and notch the edges of your bow before turning (6). • Make a small slit on the back fabric piece of your bow. Carefully turn right side out through this slit. Using a knitting needle, gently poke out all the points and curves. Press. • Apply water to the edge of the stitching, and pull the two pieces of fabric apart. Discard the back fabric piece with slit. • Press dry (7).

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• • •

47

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Position the bow in the center of your lace shaping loop, and stitch in place. I used an appliqué machine stitch set at 1.5 stitch length, and 2.5 stitch width (looks similar to a blanket stitch). Be sure to use stabilizer underneath. This can be machine zigzagged, straight stitched, pinstitched or hand stitched (8). Find the completed bow pattern, page 47, and trace, with a washout marking pen, the rest of the design lines onto your bow. Stitch the design lines using rayon thread with a small zigzag stitch set at 0.5 stitch length and 1.5 stitch width (9). Starch, press, and trim to a 13” finished block (10). 9.

7.

8.

10.

`t~|Çz gâv~á Nothing is more impressive than rows of folded tucks! Making tucks is one of the easiest heirloom techniques. Here’s how: • With washout marking pen, draw a line where you want the fold of the tuck to be. • Press a crease on this fold. • Straight stitch the appropriate width from the fold on your machine. • Press the tuck downward from the backside. Some guidelines for making beautiful tucks: • Tucks go in best when place on the lengthwise or crosswise grain line of your fabric. Bias tucks work, but will require extra care. • Curved tucks work only on gentle curves and tucks that are 1/4” or less. • Accurate markings are essential. Use a fine washout marking pen to draw your lines. • Stitching must be straight to prevent waves. You will need a guide. If you do not have a computerized machine, you may like to use a magnetic seam guide. If you use your needle plate guide, lengthen the guide lines with a piece of painter’s removable tape. For narrower tucks, you can use the width of the presser foot. • You can have control of narrow tucks by moving your needle position, left or right, letting your presser foot hold the fabric. • Use a presser foot with a flat underside and a wide area to move needle position.

48

Quilt Block # 9

Trace this design onto your fabric, centering on the center pintuck, for lace shaping.

Lengthwise Fold

Bold line is pinstitching line, dotted line is inside or second stitching line.

49

Heart Appliqué—Block # 9 1. Trace this bow design onto one of your 6” fabric squares. 2. Once you have stitched your bow, trim 1/4” away from the stitching on the outside edge.

4. Trace the rest of the lines onto your bow with a washout marking pen.

3. Clip and notch before turning.

50

`t~|Çz çÉâÜ ftá{|Çz fàÜ|Ñá You may choose from two different applications on your sashing. You may use lace insertion in the middle of your strip, or you may choose to insert beading with a narrow ribbon, giving your quilt a little more color.

1.

You will need 24 strips, finished 13” long. • • • • • •

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• • • • • •

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•

Cut 8 pieces of batiste, 4” wide by the width of your fabric. Starch and press well. With washout marking pen, mark a line down the length of the fabric, 2 1/4” from one edge (1). Cut enough 2” wide stabilizer strips until you have about 10 yards. Prewind 3 to 5 bobbins. Prepare your machine for lace insertion. Put in a wing needle, rayon thread on the top, and set up for pinstitching. You may use a zigzag if your machine does not have the pinstitch. Place the stabilizer under the first strip of fabric. Line the insertion lace (or beading) on top of the fabric, next to the line 3. you have drawn. Stitch down this side, the full length of the strip. Repeat on the other side of the lace. Repeat the above until all 8 strips have been sewn (2). Remove stabilizer. Carefully cut-away fabric from behind lace. With water, remove lines. Starch and press fabric again. Set your machine up for pintucks. Insert the double needle, 2.0 width, thread two spools of thread on the top, and wind at least three bobbins. Stitch length should be between 1.5 and 2.0. Change the upper tension to 5 - 6. Stitch a row of pintucks on each side of the lace insertion. Stitch 4. a total of three rows on each side, placing the last pintuck in the outside groove of the pintuck foot. Repeat until this is completed on all eight strips (3). The pintucks will take up about 1/2” fabric, leaving you an exact 3 1/2” wide strip. Press. Cut each strip into three 13” long strips. Trim your width to an exact 3 1/2”. When finished you will have 24, 13” long, by 3 1/2” wide strips (4). Set aside while you make the small sashing squares.

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2.

`t~|Çz à{x fÅtÄÄ ftá{|Çz fÖâtÜxá These small squares add interest and tie the quilt together.

1.

You are going to need 16 , 3 1/2” squares to stitch between the sashing and blocks.

• • •

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• • • • •

Cut a piece of batiste, 18” X 18”. Starch and press well. Fold over, corner to opposite corner, for the true bias as shown. Press a crease. Now press the other direction, and press a crease. Bias refers to the diagonal between the lengthwise and crosswise grain lines (1). With a washout marking pen, draw a line on each fold. Starting with one of the lines, draw continuous parallel lines on both sides of the original, 1” apart. Repeat this for the line going the opposite direction (2). Stitch pintucks on each of these lines. To save time and threads, stitch to the end of a line, lift the presser foot lever to release the tension, lift the needles, shift fabric, and begin in the opposite direction. Stitch again to the end of the line, lift the presser foot and needles, shift fabric, and stitch a line in another direction. Keep repeating this until all your lines have been stitched. Because you want to finish with 1/2” pintucks, you need to go back and pintuck between all the rows. Just eyeball it, running your presser foot down the middle of each row until all the rows have been filled in (3). Press lightly. With washout marking pen, draw 16, 3 1/2” squares on your pintucked fabric, using your quilters grid ruler. If you want to embellish these squares, it is easiest to complete it now prior to their being cut apart. Cut out the squares from your pintucked piece (5). Set aside until you are ready to put the entire quilt top together.

52

2.

3.

4.

5.

câàà|Çz lÉâÜ dâ|Äà gÉÑ gÉzxà{xÜ It’s exciting to see it come together! • •

• • •

• •

• •

Gather up all your pieces, and lay your quilt top out on a large surface. You have nine large, 13” square blocks - you may arrange these in any position you would like. I like to position them separating the techniques, colors, or size of design...whatever is pleasing to you. You have 24 strips for sashing. These strips go between the blocks. You have 16 small, bias pintuck squares. These will go in between the sashing strips. Once you have decided upon your block placement, stitch a sashing strip to the right side of every square. You may want to do this one row at a time so you don’t lose your placement. Use a 1/4” seam allowance. Now sew the left hand strip onto the first block in each row, and stitch the rest of the row together. Stitch a long row of horizontal strips together, with the small bias blocks in between each one, and on the end. Your will have small block, strip, small block, strip, small block, strip, and small block. Make 4 of these longer strips. Stitch the longer strips to the rows of squares, taking care in matching the small center blocks with the vertical strips. Your quilt top is complete! You are now ready to prepare the ruffled edge.

53

cÜxÑtÜ|Çz à{x bâàá|wx eâyyÄx You have three options for the outside ruffle. You may make your own out of your fabric, following the directions below, or you may purchase pregathered lace to sew on, or you may purchase flat lace which you will gather and then sew on. •

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

•

• •

Cut nine strips of batiste, the width of the fabric (42” - 45”), by 4” wide. Nine strips will make 1 1/2 time fullness. If you like lots of gathers, you will need to prepare 12 strips for double fullness. Sew all of the strips together in a long line, using 1/4” seam allowance. Press and starch the entire length. With washout marking pen, mark a line 1 3/8” in from the edge to use as a guide for your fancy machine stitch (1). Stitch out your fancy machine stitch using stabilizer underneath (2). Remove the stabilizer. Remove the water marks. Press your strip, stretching if necessary for fabric to lay flat. Stitch the two ends together to form a circle. Press the width of the entire piece in half so your piece is now 2” wide (3). Following the instructions on page 21, apply the machine shell stitch to the folded edge of the ruffle. Stitch two rows of gathering threads with a stitch length of 4.0, 1/8” and 3/8” from the edge, gathering page 59 (4). Divide the length of the ruffle into eight equal parts and mark each point with a pin. Now mark the center of each side of your quilt top with a pin. Match the pins on the ruffle to the four corners and the four center pins on the quilt top. Pull the bobbin threads and gather the extra fullness in to fit. Adjust the gathers evenly, allowing more fullness in the corners so the ruffle will lay flat when turned outward. Pin to hold the gathers in place. Stitch 1/4” from edge all the way around the quilt. I like to serge or zigzag this edge after stitching to prevent fraying and to help hold the gathers straight (5, 6). Remove any original gathering stitches that show on the ruffle finished side after it has been stitched on. You are now ready to put the layers together.

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câàà|Çz à{x dâ|Äà _tçxÜá gÉzxà{xÜ • •

•

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• • •

Measure the length and width of your quilt top. Cut backing fabric, batting, and interlining fabric the exact size of your quilt top. You may do this by measurements, or by actually laying the quilt top on top of the pieces to be cut. Lay the four layers together in this order: Batting on the bottom Underlining fabric Quilt top, facing up Backing fabric, facing down Pin the four layers together, all the way around the quilt. Stitch, using a 1/4” seam allowance all the way around the quilt. This stitching should be exactly over the ruffle stitching. Leave a 12” opening on one side to allow you to turn it right side out. Clip across the corners to prevent bulk when turning. Turn the quilt right side out through the opening. Hand slip stitch the opening closed.

UÉÉ~ÅtÜ~á YÜÉÅ lÉâÜ fvÜtÑá Always save your scraps and edges you may have cut off when sewing heirloom. You can easily turn them into lovely bookmarks...and they are great to have on hand for gift giving. • • • • • • •

Begin with a 3” X 7” fabric scrap. Stitch your favorite techniques to decorate it. Do not trim out your laces from the backside. Follow the package directions, and apply Heat’n’Bond Ultra Hold to the back side of your fabric. Peel off the paper backing and adhere to your backing fabric. Trim your bookmark to 2” wide by 6 1/2” long. You may add embroidery floss or silk ribbon to the top end. Variations: Try rounding the corners, changing the size, or laminating.

55

fà|àv{ \Ç g{x W|àv{ dâ|Äà|Çz Stitch in the ditch is a technique you will be using in garment sewing as well as for quilting projects. It is used to secure, to hide stitching, and to attach layers of fabrics together.

To stitch in the ditch, you stitch from the top side of your fabric into the ditch (or groove) made from your seam after it has been pressed to one side. This stitching will actually go into the stitching of the original seam. It will blend in and not be noticeable from the top side if you stitch straight, and if your thread closely matches your fabric.

gÉÑáà|àv{|Çz bÇ lÉâÜ dâ|Äà Topstitching is stitching applied to the right side of the fabric. It is used for decoration as well as to help hold the different layers of fabric and batting in place. Traditionally, you would match your thread color to the color of your quilt, but if you want to make the topstitching stand out and add detail, you may use a different colored thread. How to Topstitch: • •

• •

Increase the length of your stitches to 3.5. Line the edge of the presser foot up with the seam line or your outline. This will make your stitching 3/8” away from the seam or object. Move your needle position to make the stitching wider or narrower. Stitch, being careful that your stitching is straight, as it will show. Do not backstitch, as it will show from the right side. When possible, pull your top thread through to the backside and tie a square knot (page 10). Thread the thread tail ends onto a hand sewing needle and run it between the layers of fabric. Then clip threads close to fabric.

56

dâ|Äà|Çz lÉâÜ dâ|Äà This is the last step to completing your quilt….and you’ll be surprised how quickly this step goes. Congratulations, you have a beautiful quilt! • • • •

• • •

Lay your quilt out flat on a large surface area. To prevent your layers from moving on you while quilting the layers together, carefully place safety pins near all seam lines where you will be quilting. Also, put safety pins within the blocks to prevent shifting. The key is to use lots of pins. Once everything is pinned, take your quilt to your machine. Increase the stitch length to 3.5. A walking foot for your machine will make the stitching much easier and smoother, and will pull the fabrics through evenly. Using the stitch-in-the-ditch method, page 53, stitch all the sashing and sashing square seam lines. Topstitch within each block according to the diagrams below. When finished, you’ll want to be sure to spray your quilt with water to remove any traces of the washout marking pen.

57

fxã|Çz ÉÇ t UâààÉÇ You will be making garments that will require you to know how to sew on buttons and make buttonholes. There are 2 types of buttons: shank and sew-through. You must make your own shank when using flat, sew-through buttons.

Buttons with shanks have a part which extends below the button and allows room for the buttonhole to fit without puckering.

Flat, sew-through buttons with holes and without shanks are more common. There are usually two or four holes in a flat button. You will need to make your own thread shank when sewing flat buttons.

For both types, start with a double strand of thread in your needle, about 20 inches long. Tie a knot in the end of the thread.

From the wrong side of the fabric, bring up the needle and thread exactly where you want the center of the button.

For shank buttons: bring the thread through the hole in the shank, then down through the fabric very close to where the first thread entered.

Repeat this procedure, up from the bottom, through the shank, down the fabric, five or six times.

For a flat button: bring the needle and thread up through the fabric where you want the center of the button to be placed, and then through one hole in the button.

Place a toothpick on top of the button, between the holes. Sew over the toothpick as you take the thread down through the other holes and on through the fabric. Repeat this process five times.

Wind the thread tightly around that thread space, three times to form the shank. Take your needle back through to the back side of your fabric.

Secure the threads underneath by taking about three small stitches in one spot, then running the needle between the layers of fabric and back down to the wrong side, about 1/2 inch away. Clip your thread.

Secure the threads underneath the button by taking about three small stitches in one place, then running the needle between the layers of fabric and back down to the wrong side, about 1/2 inch away. Clip the thread.

Bring up the thread through the fabric, but not the button. Remove the toothpick. Lift the button to the top of the stitches, and you will notice that there is a thread space between the button and fabric.

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`t~|Çz UâààÉÇ{ÉÄxá You will be making machine buttonholes on your garments. They are suitable for almost all fabrics, and are durable. Every machine has different buttonhole features, so you must follow the directions in your machine handbook. A Few Tips on Buttonholes: • • •

• • • •

Buttonholes should always be made before sewing on buttons. Horizontal buttonholes should be used at points of strain, such as down the front of your garment, cuffs and waistbands. Confine your use of vertical buttonholes to loosely fitting garments, as a decorative feature, or down a front band. They tend to come undone when the opening is put under strain. When using a series of buttons, always use an odd number (3, 5 or 7, not 6). Always use interfacing between the layers of your fabric and facing to prevent bulging buttonholes. Your buttonholes will also turn out straighter. For a stronger buttonhole, stitch over the buttonhole a second time after cutting it open. Use a matching permanent ink marking pen on the inside of the buttonhole to prevent the white interfacing threads from showing on colored fabrics.

Calculating and Marking your Buttonholes: •

• •

• •

1.

The length of the buttonhole is determined by measuring the diameter of the button (1) and adding to this measurement the thickness of the button (2). It is best to make a trial sample on a scrap of fabric to check the length and see if the button will slide through it nicely. Mark your buttonholes from the placement guidelines on your pattern. You will mark three placement lines on your garment for each buttonhole (3). Mark the beginning and the end of the buttonhole, and directly down the middle. As a rule of thumb, the beginning of each horizontal buttonhole should begin 5/8” from the edge. This is approximately 1/8” past the garment center front or center back. Vertical buttonholes should be exactly on the center line. Practice stitching out several buttonholes according to the directions in your instruction manual (4). Carefully use a seam ripper to open your buttonhole. Place a pin across each end at the bar tacks to help prevent cutting too far (5). 59

2.

3.

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5.

bÄw Ytá{|ÉÇxw c|ÄÄÉã We have chosen Block 5, and turned it into a pinwheel design to make this side buttoned throw pillow. You may select your favorite block to make this pillow. Materials and Supplies: • 1 1/2 yard batiste • Stuffing

1.

• •

12 buttons (1/2”) Rayon thread

• •

18” X 18” batting Laces

Make Your Fabric and Lace Block: • Cut a variety of laces, beading, entredeux and fabrics about 16” long. 2. Cut enough so that when they are sewn together they will make a sewn strip at least 7” wide. • Lay your laces out into an interesting placement. It’s nice to use entredeux next to fabrics and embroidered lace (1). • Press your all your laces, and press and starch the fabric. 3. • Following the directions on page 16 and 17, stitch your laces together. Look for specific directions on the following: ..Joining fabric to entredeux ..Joining flat lace to entredeux ..Joining flat lace to flat lace (2, 3) ..Joining embroidered lace to fabric 4. ..Joining fabric to lace insertion • Be sure to note the stitch length and stitch width for each application. If you “missed” a spot when stitching, simply go over it again. If you are use an extra fine sewing thread that matches your fabric, it will not show and you need not take the original stitching out. 5. • Always use stabilizer, and begin in the middle or center lace. Remember that after you stitch on a piece of lace, turn and stitch the next lace in the other direction. This will prevent your piece from shifting. • If you used a fabric strip, you may want to add pintucks or machine embroidery to make it more interesting. Complete that process at this time. 7. • If you used beading, insert your ribbon now. Remove stabilizer (4). • Your strip is now approximately 7” wide and about 16” long. • Press and starch well. • Cut your strip into two, 7” squares (5). • Now cut your squares in half diagonally (6). • Cut two, 7” square fabric pieces. • Press and starch these fabric pieces. 8. • Cut these fabric squares in half diagonally. • Lay your fabric pieces and lace pieces out as in the design shown (7). • Stitch the diagonal pieces together first. Trim seams to 1/8” and zigzag the edges. Press toward the fabric. • Sew the squares together, pressing toward fabric. • Add any embellishment to your block at this time. 60

6.

Trim your block to a finished 13’” square. Give the block a good starching and pressing. Make the Pillow Cover: • Cut a 2” wide strip of fabric, the width of your fabric (45”) for borders. • Sew the strip to two sides of your square at 1/4” seam allowance, and trim ends even. • Now sew the strip to the top and bottom edges. Trim ends even (8). • Mark a line 1/2” from the inside border seam line. • Stitch a fancy machine stitch all the way around. Be sure to use stabilizer. • Cut two more pieces of fabric, and one piece of batting the exact size of this top square. • Layer: Top block facing down, lining, batting, and then backing. • Turn all layers over as one, and pin in place. You will be treating these as one piece from now on (9). • Quilt this layered piece by stitching in the ditch, page 53, along all seams. • Cut: two 33” X 8 1/2” pieces of fabric, two 33” X 8 1/4” pieces of interfacing. Starch and press fabric. • Draw a line on the fabric pieces, with washout marking pen, 3 3/4” from the outside edge (10). • Stitch a fancy machine stitch along this line (11), using stabilizer. • Press a fold down the middle of the length of the strips. • Apply a machine shell stitch to the folded edge—see page 21 (12). • Insert interfacing. Pin in place. • Draw a line with washout marking pen 2” from folded edge, on the right side of the fabric. Press a crease on this line. • Stitch a tuck, 1/4” from the crease. Press tuck towards outer edge (13). Set these pieces aside for the moment. • Cut a backing piece of fabric, the exact size of your quilted square. • Line up the back and front pieces. Pin and stitch one edge using a 1/4” seam allowance and then zigzagging the edge. Press (14). • Lay your square and backing open, and stitch the side pieces onto both sides (15). • Top side up, measure, mark, and stitch six buttonholes, lengthwise direction, down both side fronts. Place these 3/4” from the seam line. See page 56 (16). • Pin and stitch the bottom edge of the pillow top together, 1/4”, and zigzag the edge. • Mark button placement, and sew on buttons (17). See page 55. Make the Pillow Form: Finished Size: 13” X 13” square • Cut two pieces of fabric, 13 1/2” X 13 1/2” square. • Lay out and pin together. Stitch around outside edge, leaving a 4” opening on one side for stuffing the pillow (18). 18. • Clip corners and turn right side out. • Stuff with batting. • By hand, slip stitch opening closed. • •

61

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17.

Ztà{xÜ|Çz YtuÜ|v Gathering (also easing), is what you do to make a longer piece of fabric fit a shorter piece of fabric. It is used in many applications, including waistlines, sleeves, ruffles, and edging. The following steps will produce nice looking, evenly spaced gathers that will lay flat. How to Gather: • Do not starch your fabric. • To baste stitch, set the stitch length to about 4 or 5. This should give you around six stitches per inch. • Stitch one row of baste stitching on the piece to be gathered, right side up, 1/2” from the edge of the fabric, and another row 3/4” from the edge of the fabric. • Do not backstitch, and leave the thread tails long (1). • With right sides together, pin the section to be gathered to the shorter one, matching and pinning at notches, seams, and markings (2). • Fasten the bobbin threads at one end by wrapping them around a pin in a figure 8 fashion (3). • Gently pull the bobbin threads from the other end of the gathering piece until it fits the shorter section (4). • Distribute the gathers evenly and pin in place. Place your pins into the body of the fabric (5). • Stitch with the gathered side up, right down the middle of the two basting rows (6). This will make the finished stitching at 5/8”. Be careful to not let tucks form. • Once you are satisfied with your finished seam, take the pin with the wrapped thread ends out, and pull once again on the bobbin threads from the other end until they are removed. You may now simply lift off the top layer of basting threads, leaving a nicely finished seam (7). • If you like, you may stitch basting threads in a contrasting color, since they will be removed, making it easier to see where to put the final stitching. 6.

7.

62

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c|Ñ|Çz T fxtÅ Piping is used to accentuate a construction feature or design lines on your garment. It gives your garment a lovely, tailored, expensive look. You may select a matching or contrasting color, depending upon the application. Though you can make your own piping, it is fairly inexpensive to purchase ready made. Piping is made by folding a bias strip around a cotton filler cord, and stitching it onto your garment next to the cord. Applying Piping to Your Garment: • •

• • • •

•

• •

1.

Put a zipper foot onto your machine. This foot will allow you to stitch close to the cording (1). Pin and stitch the piping to the right side of your garment on the seam line, using a normal stitch length. Lay the corded edge towards the main body of the piece, and place the bias edge into the seam line (2). To finish the ends, pull fabric back 1 1/2” on the piping, exposing the filler cord (3). Cut the filler cord off just inside the end of the opening, leaving the fabric covering intact (4). Fold in the bias ends and re-stitch the piping enclosing the filler cord (5). Pin in place, right sides together, the other garment piece that is to be joined to the piped edge (6). Stitch with the side that shows your previous stitching on the top, over the same line of stitching (7). Clip or notch curves and corners. Press.

Apply piping on an edge without a closing: • • • • •

2.

3. 4.

5. 6.

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Take out some stitches, and pull the fabric back 1 1/2” on the piping, exposing the filler cord. Cut filler cord off just inside the end of the opening, leaving the fabric covering intact (8). Fold the bias tape end inside itself 1/2”. Bring the other end up and clip it off just where it meets the clipped end of the filler cord (9). Fold the loose bias over the top of this end, and stitch in place (10).

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`xtáâÜxÅxÇàá tÇw f|éxá Utuç XÇáxÅuÄx @ \ÇytÇà f|é|Çz The next few pages will show you how to make a baby bonnet, panties, slip, dresses, booties, and headbands. All of these patterns will be based on the following measurements and baby weights. Baby Size

Size

Baby Weight

Baby Height

0-3 months 6 months 9 months 12 months 18 months

NB S M L XL

8 - 12 lbs 13 - 17 lbs 18 - 21 lbs 22 - 25 lbs 26 - 29 lbs

18 25 27 29 31

-

24” 26” 28” 30” 32”

After weighing and measuring your baby, compare your baby’s measurements with the measurements on this chart to find out what size pattern you will want to cut out.

fàtÇwtÜw `xtáâÜxÅxÇàá tÇw f|é|Çz V{tÜà Use these charts to determine your size for patterns in this book. Girls sizes in inches Size

6

8

10

12

14

16

Chest Waist

25 22

27 23 1/2

28 1/2 24 1/2

30 25 1/2

32 26 1/2

34 27 1/2

Misses Sizes in Inches Size

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

20

Bust Waist

30 1/2 23

31 1/2 24

32 1/2 25

34 26 1/2

36 28

38 30

40 32

42 34

64

fãxxà Utuç WÜxáá Little girl dresses are fun to make. We show you two different versions using the same pattern, simply changing the color, stitches, ribbon, and other embellishments. Materials and Supplies: • 2 yards batiste • 1 1/4 yards edging lace • 5 yards 1/4” ribbon • Rayon thread • 3 flat buttons • 1/4 yard of sew-in interfacing • 1/8” wide elastic

Finished Skirt Length Newborn Small Medium Large X Large

10 1/2” 11 1/2” 12 1/2” 13 1/2” 14 1/2”

Elastic Length 13” 13 1/2” 14” 14 1/2” 15”

Instructions: • From fabric, cut out one front piece on fold, and two back pieces on fold. Patterns are on pages 67 and 68. • From fabric cut one rectangular piece on the fold, for the embellished front, 1” taller than the height of the bodice front pattern, and 3” wider than the width of the bodice front pattern. • Cut two fabric rectangles on fold, 1” wider and 1/2” taller than the sleeve pattern on page 69. • Embellish the bodice front rectangles as follows: 1. Purple dress: Figure 1 ..With washout marking pen draw the bodice front onto your rectangle. ..Draw a line 2 1/2” up from lower edge of the bodice. ..Starting at the center front, draw 30 degree diagonal lines 3/4” apart between the line and the lower edge of bodice, making a sideways diamond shape. ..Satin stitch, with rayon thread, using a 0.3 stitch length and 4.0 stitch width, over the diagonal lines. Be sure to use stabilizer underneath. ..Sew 1/4” ribbon to the straight line at the top of the diamonds, stitching both edges of the ribbon with a straight stitch. 2. Mint dress: Figure 2 ..Find some fancy machine stitches, and stitch a grouping of stitches 3” wide, centered on the center front fold. ..With washout marking pen, mark a line 5/8” from the last fancy stitch, on both sides. ..Straight stitch 3/16” from the fold. This makes your first tuck. 65

• • •

• • • • • • •

•

..Mark five more continuous fold lines, 7/8” from the first 3. one, and stitch 3/16” tucks on each one. Repeat for the other side. ..Press all tucks toward the outside from the center. From your embellished rectangle, cut out a front piece, centering on the fold (3). Starch and press the fronts flat, starch and press the backs in half on 4. the fold. To make the optional collar - purple dress: ..Cut two rectangles, 2” wider and 2” longer than the collar pattern. ..Trace the pattern onto the top layer of fabric. 5. ..Using stabilizer underneath, satin stitch with rayon thread, and using a 6.0 stitch width, 0.3 stitch length, over the outside collar edge (4). ..Change your stitch width to 3.0 and satin stitch the inner 6. design line. ..Fray check the outside stitching from the back side. Let dry completely (5). ..Trim away the fabric right next to the stitching, then satin stitch it again on the trimmed edge, using same settings. Front ..Lay this over your embellished bodice front, and sew it into the shoulder seams with your front and back pieces (6). 7. Pin front and back shoulder seams (with optional collar) and stitch at 5/8” (7). back back Trim all 4 seams to 1/4” and press open. Right sides together, fold in half, folding at the center back fold line. Pin a 1” X 4” piece of interfacing, next to the bodice back center fold line. This is reinforcement for the buttons and buttonholes. Front Pin and stitch at 5/8”, the neckline seam (8). Clip the neckline curve, trim the seam to 1/4”, turn right side out, 8. and press. To make the round, lace-edged neckline - mint dress: Figure 9. ..Stitch lace around the neckline edge, 1/4” from edge. ..Satin stitch, stitch length 0.3 and stitch width 4.0 over the neck edge and edge of lace, or you may use 1/8” ribbon to cover the stitched edge of the lace. 9. Find the two sleeve rectangles, and embellish them as follows: Purple dress: Figure 10. ..Mark two straight lines, 1” on each side of the center fold. ..Draw diagonal lines between these 2 lines 3/4” apart at a 30 degree angle. ..Satin stitch on these diagonal lines, this time using a 3.0 10. stitch width, and 0.3 stitch length. Be sure to use stabilizer underneath. ..Stitch ribbon onto the straight lines on both sides of the diagonal. 66

• • •

•

• •

Mint dress: Figure 11 ..Mark a line right on the center fold. ..Stitch a fancy machine stitch on this line. ..Mark lines for three tucks on each side of the fancy stitching, making them all 7/8” apart. ..Individually, press each of them back, and stitch a 3/16” tuck. ..Press all tucks toward the outside from the center. Take your sleeve pattern, and cut out your sleeves from the embellished rectangles (12). Apply edging lace to the bottom of the sleeve. Zigzag lace edge to sleeve edge, right sides together. Press toward fabric and topstitch. Stitch 1/8” elastic to the sleeve, placing it 1/4” above the lace edging. Cut the elastic to length (see chart), and stretch it as you sew it on with a narrow zigzag stitch (13). Gather the top edge of the sleeve, between notches, and sew the sleeve seam at 5/8” seam allowance, treating the bodice fabric and lining as one piece. See gathering instructions on page 59 (14). Trim seam to 1/4”, and serge or zigzag the edges together. Seam lays into the sleeve. Sew the underarm sleeve and underarm bodice seams. Trim and zigzag or serge finish the edge (15).

Making the skirt: • Take your leftover fabric, and square up one end. • Stitch ends of leftover fabric piece on the squared end (page 7) at 5/8” seam allowance, 6” up from the bottom edge (16). • Turn and press up the bottom hem, 2” all the way around the skirt. Now fold it under again and press. • Take the hem to your machine, and stitch 1/4” from the fold edge of the last turn (17). You now have your first row of 3 tucks, and the hem is enclosed inside of it. • Open up the skirt, and press this tuck downward. • Mark a line 3/4” above the tuck stitching line. Fold and press this line. • Stitch 1/4” from the edge of the fold. Open up and press downward. • Repeat this same step one more time so you have three rows of tucks. • With washout marking pen, mark a line 1/4” above the stitching from the last row of tucks. • Stitch 1/4” ribbon on this line. • Mark another line 1/2” above the ribbon line. • Find a fancy machine stitch to stitch out on this line. • Cut length according to the chart, page 62, and add 5/8” for seam allowance. • Finish sewing up the back to within 3” of the top. • Press seam open, and continue pressing the 5/8” all the way up the 3” area left unstitched (20). 67

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16

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21.

• • •

• • •

•

•

Topstitch 1/4” from the fold, the 3” open end to make a center back opening (21). Stitch gathering threads at 1/2” and 3/4” along the top of the skirt. Adjust gathering threads on the width of the skirt piece along the top 22. edge. Pin and stitch it to the lower edge of the bodice, beginning by offsetting the skirt piece 3/4” in on the right back side only, and continuing to the seam on the left side back (22, 23). Once it is stitched in place, trim the seam, zigzag or serge the edge, and press the seam upward. Topstitch the seam in place. Sew 1/4” ribbon around the entire bodice placing the lower edge of 23. the ribbon on the bodice/skirt seam. Straight stitch both edges of the ribbon. Finish the dress by stitching the buttonholes into the bodice back (page 56). Make 3 buttonholes, with the top one placed 5/8” from the neckline finished edge, the bottom one 5/8” from skirt seam, and 24. the third one half way between the two. Set them 1/2” in on the left back fold. Sew the buttons on by hand, (page 55). Cute dress completed! (24)

YÜ|ÄÄç fÉv~á

1.

Quick! Fun! Cute! A must for all little girls. Materials and Supplies: • 1 yard flat lace, polyester or rayon...not cotton (it wrinkles!). • 1 pair of socks, with a cuff...any color • 1/2 yard colored 1/4” ribbon. 2.

Instructions: • Beginning at the center back, stretch the bottom edge of the cuff and zigzag stitch, the edge of the lace to the cuff using machine settings of about 1.5 stitch length and 2.0 stitch width (2). • When finished, overlap ends of the lace and zigzag down the middle of the overlap. Trim off excess on each side of the overlap. 3. • You may stitch up to three rows of lace, 1/4” apart, for a fuller look (allow one extra yard of lace for each additional row). Or, you may purchase wider, double edge lace, and stitch it onto the sock. Stitch down the middle of the lace. • You may add a ribbon bow to the outside cuff (3). • Note: Pregathered lace is not satisfactory. The stitching edge is too heavy or too wide, and makes the lace edge too bulky. 68

fÑxv|tÄ bvvtá|ÉÇ Utuç WÜxáá Turn this dress into a baptismal or dedication gown, or just dress it up for a special occasion! Use the patterns, and follow the instructions for the Sweet Baby Dress version making the following adjustments and additions: • Cut the skirt length according to the chart to the right. This finished length is for a dedication gown. If your child is walking, you may want to use the chart on page 62. Feel free to cut it out of eyelet lace for a different look. • Bodice embellishment: Figure 1. ..Stitch a fancy machine stitch down the center front of your rectangular piece. ..Make five rows of tucks on each side of your fancy stitching. 1. ..Begin by marking lines 3/4” apart on each side of the center front with a washout marking pen. ..Press back on each of these lines, and straight stitch 3/16” from the folded edge. Repeat for all 5 tucks on each side of center. ..Press all the tucks from the center toward the outside. ..Center the pattern on the rectangle and cut out bodice front. 2. • Sleeve embellishment: Figure 2. ..Using the same fancy stitch, stitch it out on the sleeve center fold. ..Press and then stitch out one tuck on each side of the fancy stitch. Mark the line for the fold 5/8” from the center of the 3. fancy stitch and stitch it as a 3/16” tuck. • Longer Christening or Dedication gown: Figure 3. ..If you are adding length to the skirt, you will want to add more details at the hemline. Add an additional 6” to your chosen finished length. (measurement from chart, extra length, plus 6”) ..Instead of three rows of tucks, stitch five rows. 4. ..Add three rows of pintucks. ..One row of 1/8” ribbon. ..Finish the embellishing with one or two rows of fancy machine stitching. 5. • Make ties for the back, cutting a width of fabric, 3” wide. ..Using the double rolled hem foot on your sewing machine, make a narrow hem on both sides of the long edges. ..Cut the strip in the middle (4). ..Cut the other end of the strip at a 45 degree angle, so you are cutting off the starts of your rolled hem. ..Zigzag stitch lace onto the 45 degree angle (do not cut lace ends). 6. ..Mark a line 1/2” up from the lace, and stitch on a row of 1/8” ribbon. ..Fray check the ends of the ribbon and lace. Let dry completely and then trim them even with the folded edge (5). ..Tuck the other end of the tie strip, and insert it into the bodice side seam, stitching it in place when you stitch the side seam (6). 69

Finished Length: NB S M L XL

18” 19 1/2” 21” 22 1/2” 2”

Size/Cutting Line Guide: X Large Large Medium Small Newborn

Pintucks & Lace Sweet Baby Dress Special Occasion Dress

Cut 1 on Fold Cut 1 on Fold from Embellished Rectangle 5/8” seam allowance Sizes NB - X L

70

Place on Fold

Bodice Front

Size/Cutting Line Guide: X Large Large Medium Small Newborn

Pintucks & Lace Sweet Baby Dress Special Occasion Dress Place on Fold

Bodice Back Cut 2 on Fold 5/8” seam allowance Sizes NB - X L

Center Back 71

Place on Fold

Pintucks & Lace Sweet Baby Dress Special Occasion Dress Sleeve Cut 2 on Fold from Embellished Rectangle 5/8” seam allowance Sizes NB - X L

Size/Cutting Line Guide: X Large Large Medium Small Newborn

72

Place on Fold

You will be cutting a rectangle on the fold. Trace your pattern size onto one rectangle.

Sweet Baby Dress Collar Cut 2 Fabric on Fold Cut 1 Interfacing on Fold Sizes Newborn, Medium X Large

Bold black lines are the outside satin stitching line.

Sweet Baby Dress

Gray lines are the inside satin stitching line

Collar Cut 2 Fabric on Fold Cut 1 Interfacing on Fold Sizes Small, Large

Size Guidelines: X Large Large Medium Small Newborn

Place on Fold

73

Wt|Çàç Utuç fÄ|Ñ 1.

Just as pretty as the overdress! Materials and Supplies: • 1 yards batiste • 2 flat buttons • 1 1/2” X 4” piece of sew-in interfacing • 2 yards of 1/8” ribbon • 1 1/4 yards edging lace

Skirt lengths for slip and pinafore Newborn: Small: Medium: Large: X Large:

8” 9” 10” 11” 12”

Instructions: • Cut out two front pieces on fold, and two back pieces on fold. Patterns are on pages 73 and 74. • Pin front and back shoulder seams and stitch at 5/8” (1). • Trim seams to 1/4” and press open. • Right sides together, fold in half, folding at the center back fold line. • Place a 1 1/2” X 4” piece of interfacing, on the bodice back fold, and pin in place. • Pin and stitch at 5/8”, the neckline and armhole seams (2). • Clip all the curves, trim the seam to 1/4”, turn right side out, and press (3). • With washout marking pen, draw a line around the neckline, 1/4” from the seam edge. • Pin and stitch 1/8” ribbon around the neckline on this line (4). • Open up the side seam fold, and stitch the lining and front side seams in one stitching. Again, trim to 1/4”, press open, and re-press armhole seam (5). • Topstitch armhole seam. • To make the slip skirt, cut a rectangular shape using the width of the fabric and whatever length you have left (you will cut it to the correct length after the embellishments). • Stitch short ends of rectangular skirt piece together at 5/8” seam allowance, about 6 - 8” up from the bottom end. • Press seam open. • Turn and press up the bottom hem, 2” all the way around the skirt. Now fold it under again and press. • Take the hem to your machine, and stitch 3/8” from the fold edge (6). You now have a tuck, and the hem is enclosed inside of it. • Open up the skirt, and press this tuck downward. • Mark a line 1/2” above the stitching line of the tuck (8). • Sew ribbon onto this line. • Mark another row 1/2” above the ribbon line. • Find a fancy machine stitch, and stitch out a design on this line. Be sure to use stabilizer under the fabric (9). 74

2.

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5.

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7.

8.

•

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• •

Determine the finished length you would like the skirt slip to be, and cut it to this length and add 5/8”. You may want to consult the dress length chart (page 62), and make the skirt 1” shorter if it is going underneath, or 1” longer if you want the slip to show. Continue stitching the back seam up to within 3” of the top (9). Press seam open, and continue pressing the 5/8” all the way up the 3” left unstitched. Topstitch, presser foot width from the fold, the 3” open end to make a center back opening (10). Using a straight stitch, stitch a row of lace around the bottom edge. Following the directions for gathering on page 59, run gathering threads on the width of the skirt piece, beginning at the 3” opening and finishing at the other end of this opening. Pin and stitch it to the outside lower edge of the bodice at 5/8” seam allowance. Do not stitch it to the lining (11). Once it is stitched in place, trim the seam, and press the seam upward into the bodice. Turn the lining edge under 5/8”, and hand baste it over the top of the gathering seam, giving you a very clean finish on the inside of your garment (12).

9.

10.

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12.

WtÜÄ|Çz Utuç c|ÇtyÉÜx Cute pinafore makes the dress more versatile You will be using the same pattern and directions as for the baby slip, making the following additions: • • • • • • • • •

Find a cute embroidery for the front bodice and either stitch it on by hand or machine (1). Make ties for the back, cutting a width of fabric, 3” wide. Using the double rolled hem foot on your sewing machine, make a narrow hem on both of the long edges. Cut the strip in the middle. Cut the other end of the strip at a 45 degree angle, so you are cutting off the starts of your rolled hem (2). Zigzag stitch lace onto the 45 degree angle (do not cut lace ends yet). Mark a line 1/2” up from the lace, and stitch on a row of 1/8” ribbon. Fray check the ends of the ribbon and lace. Let dry completely and them trim them even with the folded edge (3, 4). Tuck the other end of the tie strip, and insert it into the bodice side seam, stitching it in place when you stitch the side seam. 75

1.

2.

3.

4.

Size/Cutting Line Guide: X Large Large Medium Small Newborn

Need to mark buttons and buttonholes on this.

Pintucks & Lace

Cut 2 on Fold 5/8” seam allowance Sizes NB - X L

76

Place on Fold

Bodice Back

Center Back

Slip - Pinafore

Size/Cutting Line Guide: X Large Large Medium Small Newborn

Pintucks & Lace

Bodice Front Cut 2 on Fold 5/8” seam allowance Sizes NB - X L

77

Place on Fold

Slip - Pinafore

Vâàx Utuç UÉÇÇxà This style bonnet is quick, easy, and very cute! 1.

Materials and Supplies: • 1/3 yard batiste • 1/2 yard of 1/2” wide insertion lace • 1 yard edging lace • 2 yards ribbon

Size of fabric rectangle NB - S 13” X 7 1/2” M - L 14” X 8 3/4” XL 15” X 9” 2.

Instructions: • Cut out a rectangle according to the sizing chart above. • From one of the long ends (this will be the front), with a washout marking pen, mark a series of lines, and stitch the following: (1) 3/4” - pintuck 1 1/8” - pintuck 1 1/2” - pintuck 2 1/4” - center of lace insertion 3” - pintuck 3 3/8” - pintuck 3 3/4” - pintuck • Gather edging lace by pulling the loopy thread on the top (2). Adjust the gathers to fit the length of the front edge. • Zigzag the lace to the front edge. • Press under the sides, at 1/4” and then again at 1/4”. • Stitch next to the inside fold (3). • On the other long end (the back), turn under and press 1/4”, then again 1/2”. • Stitch next to the fold to form the ribbon casing (4). • With washout marking pen, mark a line 2” from the back. • Stitch a very small tuck (1/8”), on the wrong side of bonnet, on this line. • Insert ribbon through the back casing, and draw up to fit the head (5). • Attach ribbons with a loop at the lower front corners to tie it on (6). • You’re done! This cute bonnet was very simple and is very sweet.

78

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5.

6.

cÜxààç [xtwutÇw Materials and Supplies: • 2 1/4” X 22 1/2” fabric • 3/4” soft elastic

Headband Elastic Length Newborn - 15” 6 months - 16” 12 months - 17 1/2” 18 months - 19”

Instructions: • Cut a 2 1/4” by 22 1/2” piece of fabric. • Fold fabric in half lengthwise. Stitch 1/4” seam allowance, lengthwise to within 2” of each end (1). • Slip a safety pin through the end fold, and feed through the fabric, turning the “tube” right side out. • Pin ends together, and stitch at 1/4” seam allowance (2). • Insert the elastic through the opening. • Stitch elastic ends together (3). • Hand sew the fabric opening closed (4). • Make and add the ribbon bow (directions below) (5). • Hand sew the bow to the band, covering the seam line. • For older girls, measure the head for elastic length and use full width of fabric.

1. 2.

3.

4.

5.

VÉÉÄ e|uuÉÇ UÉã 1.

Materials and Supplies: • Hairpin lace frame • 1/8” ribbon (see chart)

Size:

Baby Toddler Girls

Set frame:

2” 2 1/2” 3”

Length of 2 ribbons 2 yards each 3 yards each 5 yards each

Instructions: • Set the width of the hairpin lace frame according to chart. • Wrap the ribbon on the frame, leaving 5” tails. • Using a very short straight stitch length (1.0), place the frame under the sewing machine foot, and stitch down the middle of the ribbon (2). • Remove the ribbon from the frame. • Fold ribbon in half along the seam, and stitch again, close to the original stitching (3). • Roll the ribbon up, and tack bottom edge by hand (4). • Add more ribbon streamers if you like (5). • Hand tack your ribbon bow to your headband. • For older girls, you may want to set your frame up with a wider width, and use more ribbon to make it fuller. 79

2.

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4.

5.

YtÇvç ctÇà|xá Frilly and lacy - and oh so cute!

Materials and Supplies: • 13” fabric • 2 yards gathered lace • elastic - 1/2” (waist) and 1/4” (leg)

NB Leg Waist

Elastic Chart S

9 3/4” 16”

(in inches) M L

10 10 1/4 16 1/2 17

10 1/2 18

XL 10 3/4 19 2.

Instructions: • Cut out two front pieces and two back pieces from the patterns on pages 78 and 79. • Sew the center back seam at 5/8” seam allowance. Trim to 1/4” wide, zigzag the edge and press to one side (1). • Using a washout marking pen draw a line 5” from the top edge. • Sew edging lace on this line. • Using 1/4” ribbon, sew both sides of the ribbon over the edge of the lace. • Find a fancy machine stitch to stitch above the ribbon. Be sure to use stabilizer under the fabric (2). • Sew the center front seam at 5/8” seam allowance. Trim to 1/4” wide, zigzag the edge, and press to one side (3). • Zigzag finish the top and leg edges of front and back. • Mark and turn down 3/4” along the top edge and the bottom edges of the front and back. Press to crease the edges. • Sew the side seams at 1/4” seam allowance, then zigzag finish the edges, press one direction (4). • Sew a casing on the top edge, stitching 5/8” from the fold line, leaving a 1/2” opening to insert the elastic (5). • Insert the elastic (6). • Overlap and stitch the ends of the elastic together (7). • Finish stitching the casing closed. • Sew two rows of stitching on the bottom leg edge for casing. Stitch one row at 5/8” seam allowance, and the other 3/8” seam allowance. • Sew edging lace along the fold (8). • Insert elastic into the casing, pinning the elastic at both ends of casings to hold in place. • Sew the crotch seam at 5/8”. Stitch over the elastic three times (forward and reverse) for reinforcement. Trim to 1/4” wide, and zigzag the edge (9). • Use water to remove washout marking pen lines. • Turn right side out and try on (10). 80

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Extend the pattern 5” straight up from the top of this line

Pintucks & Lace Panty Front Cut 2 Sizes NB - X L

Size/Cutting Line Guide: X Large Large Medium Small Newborn

Side seam 1/4”

81

Pintucks & Lace

Cut 2 Sizes NB - X L

Size/Cutting Line Guide: X Large Large Medium Small Newborn

82

Side seam 1/4”

Extend the pattern 5” straight up from the top of this line

Panty Back

a|yàç UÉÉà|xá Keep those little piggies warm! These booties are shaped to stay on. 1.

Materials and Supplies: • Outside fabric - use leftovers from dress • 1/4 yard flannel for lining • 4” gripper fabric for soles • 1/4” elastic according to chart • Ribbon - use leftovers from dress • Lace - use leftovers from dress • Rayon thread

Ankle Elastic Chart NB S M L XL

7 1/4” 7 3/4” 8 1/4” 8 3/4” 8 3/4”

Instructions: • Using the pattern on the next page, cut out two bootie tops from the outside fabric, and two from lining fabric; Cut two bootie soles from gripper fabric or two lining fabric and two outer fabric. • With washout marking pen draw casing lines on the lining at 2 1/8” and 1 3/4” from the top (1). Set aside. • Press outer fabric bootie in half (2). Sew ribbon over pressed line, using stabilizer underneath. Find and select a fancy machine stitch to stitch on both sides of the ribbon, stitching presser foot width away (3). • Sew the center back seam, right sides together, of outer fabric and lining fabric, at 5/8” seam allowance. Trim to 1/4” and press seam open (4). • Sew the lining to the outer fabric around the top edge, matching the center back seam (5). Trim to 1/4”, turn, and press. • Sew on the casing line you previously marked, leaving an opening in the lower row for inserting the elastic (6). • Sew edging lace along the top edge (7). • Insert elastic into the casing and finish stitching the casing closed (7). • You will be stitching the sole next. If you are not using gripper fabric, lay the fabric and the lining together for each bootie, and treat as one fabric. • Sew the sole onto the bootie with a 5/8” seam allowance, matching the toes and heels, and pinning well. You may need to clip the upper fabric to get them to fit together well (8). • Trim and zigzag this seam. 9. • Turn right side out and enjoy (9).

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Place on Fold Bootie Sole Cut 2 on Fold

Size/Cutting Line Guide: X Large Large Medium Small Newborn

Pintucks & Lace Bootie Top Cut 2 Outside Fabric Cut 2 Lining Fabric

Casing Lines

Center back

Place on Fold

5/8” seam allowance

5/8” Stitching Line

Top of bootie

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_ÉäxÄç f{Üâz Shawls, and wraps make great cover-ups. This shrug pattern dresses up an outfit and can be made from most any fabric. Depending on the weight of the fabric, you may make it single thickness or add a lining to it. Materials and Supplies: • Fabric, according to the size chart. • Variety of laces • Interfacing, 1 1/2” by 15” • Extra fine sewing thread • Rayon colored thread • 4 yards piping (if lining) Making the pattern: • Determine your pattern size from the chart on page 61. • Make a rectangle paper pattern using the measurements listed for your size. • Following the diagram, angle the ends in about 2” down and 8” across for Misses, 1” down and 4” across for Girls.

Girls Sizes Small (6-8) Medium (10-12) Large (14-16) Misses Sizes Small (6-8) Medium (10-12) Large (14-16) X-Large (18-20)

Fabric Width

Fabric Depth

Band Size

28”

14”

3” X 9”

34”

16”

3” X 10”

1 yd

40”

20”

3” X 11”

1 1/8 yd

Fabric Width

Fabric Depth

Band Size

40”

20”

3” X 10”

1 1/4 yd

42 1/2”

22”

3” X 11”

1 1/3 yd

45”

24”

3” X 12 1/2”

1 1/2 yd

3” X 14”

1 5/8 yd

Cutting out your fabric: 49” 28” • Cut a large rectangle, 2” longer than the width of your pattern, and 2” longer than the depth of your pattern for your outside piece. You will cut it to pattern size after you have completed the embellishment. Embellishment is optional. If you opt not to, simply cut the pattern out accurately. Lining is also optional. If you wish to line your wrap, double the yardage, and cut 2 pattern pieces. • Cut two band pieces. • Cut one band piece for interfacing. Then cut again in half lengthwise, making two pieces (1). Sewing and embellishing: • Press and starch all of your fabric pieces. • Draw a line down the center back on one of your large rectangles. • Divide the width of the back by five, and place the crosswise line 2/5 of the way down from the neckline. 85

Yardage Needed

1 yd

Yardage Needed

1.

Center Back Line 2.

2/5 3/5

• • • • • •

Follow the directions for quilt block 4 on page 35 to embellish the 2. back of the wrap with lace, embroidery and pintucks (2). Press and starch. Recut to exact pattern size. Turn both long edges under 1/4” and then again 1/4” and press. Do 3. not turn under the angled ends (3). Find a fancy machine stitch to topstitch these turned edges. Run gathering threads at 1/2” and 3/4” along the rectangle ends.

Prepare your band: 4. • Press band in half, lengthwise. • Press under one edge of the band, 1/4”. • Lay interfacing next to the other edge of the band (4). • With the band opened up flat, stitch a fancy machine stitch on the edge with the interfacing, stitching presser foot width away from 5. the crease. • Following the directions on gathering, page 59, gather and stitch the extra fullness in the sleeve to fit the band/interfacing edge. • Stitch the band and angled edges together using a 1/4” seam allowance and zigzag the edge (5). 6. • Stitch in place, and press seam allowance toward sleeve band (6). • Fold the other edge of the band to the inside, matching the turned edge with the original stitching line. • Hand tack in place, putting your stitches next to the stitching, but into the seam allowance so they don’t show from the right side (7).

8.

Directions for lined shrug: • Follow above directions through the embellishment. • Sew piping along the two long straight edges only (not angled ends) (8). • Right sides together, sew the outside piece to the inside piece, stitching directly over the original piping stitching (9). • Turn, press and topstitch with a fancy machine stitch (10). • Run your gathering thread on the ends, and then follow the directions above for preparing and stitching the band on. • Enjoy wearing!

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Uxtâà|yâÄ g|xÜxw f~|Üà The tiered skirt is very cute, comfy, and popular. We give you instructions using three tiers, with heirloom embellishment techniques on the bottom two. This can be sewn up in children’s sizes or for adults. Materials and Supplies: • Fabric - about 2 1/2 yards up to about a 40” hip measurement. • 3/4” flat edging lace—length equal to length of last tier. • Piping—length of 1st and 2nd tiers combined.

• • •

Thread Rayon thread 3/4” non-roll elastic

Your Pattern: • Measure your waist and hips. Take the largest measurement and add 4”. This will be the width of the first tier. • The 2nd tier will be 1 1/2 times the width of the first. • The 3rd tier will be 1 1/2 times the width of the 2nd. • Measure from your waist to the length you would like the skirt to finish. Divide this measurement by 3. This is your base height for each tier. For the first tier, add 1 1/2” to this measurement; for the 2nd tier, add 1/4” to the base measurement; for the 3rd tier, add 3 1/2” to this measurement. Hip + 4” A.

Tier 1

1/3 finished length + 1 1/2”

B width = 1 1/2 times length of A. Divide in half to make two even size panels.

B.

Tier 2

Tier 3

B.

1/3 finished length +1/4”

C—1 1/2 times length of B. Divide by 3 or 4 to make even size panels.

C.

C.

C.

Instructions: • Serge or zigzag all edges of all pieces. Tier 1: • Sew side seam at 1/2” seam allowance (1). Press open. • Sew piping to the bottom edge (2). See instructions on page 60. • Press the top edge under 1” to the wrong side. • Stitch 7/8” from the fold line, leaving a 3” opening to insert elastic. • Measure your waist and subtract 2”. Cut 3/4” non-roll elastic to this length. 87

1/3 finished length + 3 1/2” 1.

2.

• Insert elastic through the casing (3). 3. • Overlap ends and zigzag stitch together (4). • Slide elastic back into casing, and stitch opening closed. Tier 2: • Starch and press both tier 2 pieces. • Sew side seams together at 1/2”. Press open. • Run long gathering stitch, 4 or 5, around top edge (5). • With a washout marking pen, mark a line 1” up from the bottom edge. • Place a row of pintucks, (page 11), on the first line. Continue pintucking two more rows, putting the last row in the outside groove of your pintuck foot (5). • Find a fancy machine stitch and stitch it 1/2” from the last pintuck. • Sew piping to the bottom edge of Tier 1 and Tier 2 (5). • Gather the top edge to fit the piped edge of tier 1 (6). See gathering information on page 59. The top tier seam will be in the center back. Line the 2 seams in the second tier up as side seams. • Stitch together, stitching over the top of the wrong side of the piping stitching (7). • Remove any gathering threads that show from the right side. Tier 3: • Starch and press all tier 3 pieces. • Sew side seams together at 1/2”. Press open. • Run a long gathering stitch around the top edge (8). • With a washout marking pen, mark lines up from the bottom edge at 1 3/4”, 2 3/4”, 3 3/4” and 4 1/4”. • Fold on the first line, press a crease, and stitch a 1/4” tuck. • Press downward from back side. • Fold on the next line, crease, and stitch another tuck. • Press downward. • Fold on the third line and make another tuck. • Press downward (8). • Use the same fancy machine stitch as in tier 2. Stitch it out on the fourth line. You may add additional rows of fancy stitching. • Lay flat edging lace, right sides together, next to the bottom edge, and stitch in place with a 3/8” seam allowance (9). • Press the seam up into the tier, with lace becoming the bottom edge. • Topstitch to hold in place (10). • Gather the top edge to fit the piped edge of Tier 2. Line one of the three seams up in line with the center back seam on the top tier. • Stitch together, stitching over the top of the wrong side of the piping stitching. • Remove any gathering threads that show from the right side. • Finished! Press it up and try it on (11). 88

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_tvç UÄÉâáx Use your favorite blouse pattern to make this lovely blouse. You will be adding the lace to the bodice front pieces, following the techniques below. 1.

Materials and Supplies: • Your favorite blouse pattern • 5 buttons • 3” sew-in interfacing • Fabric - see yardage on pattern envelope, plus 2” additional bodice front length • Variety of laces, beading, entredeux, and ribbon 2.

Instructions: • Cut out two fabric rectangles, 2” wider and 2” taller than your bodice front pattern. These rectangle fabric pieces will serve as the base to apply your laces. 3. • Lay your pattern piece onto each rectangle (don’t forget to turn it over for the second one), and trace 1” away from the pattern edge with washout marking pen onto the fabric. Your lace must cover this area (1). • Lay your rectangles out with center fronts together. Begin laying laces, entredeux and beading out in an order that is pleasing to you, on the right side. The order should be the same, except in mirror image on the left side (2). • Cut two sheets of stabilizer as large as your fabric rectangle. Pin the stabilizer to the fabric near the edges and away from the pattern area (3). Stabilizer is essential. • You will stitch your laces together, and onto the fabric base at the same time. You will need to plan ahead to trim, or to join laces that will need trimming prior to attaching them to the fabric. Refer to instructions on joining laces on page 16. • Begin stitching your laces onto the base, working from the center front toward the side seams, using a rayon thread and wing needle. Cover the entire pattern area. Repeat for the second side, double checking as you go to make sure the laces are in the same, mirrored image order (4). • If you have a skip, you need not take the stitching out. After all your stitching has been completed, simply come back and zigzag with extra fine sewing thread over the skip areas...it will not show. • You may now take your bodice front pattern piece, lay it over the fabric/lace rectangle and cut it out (5). • Proceed to sew your blouse together, following the directions that came with your pattern. 89

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XÅuÜÉ|wxÜxw gxt VÉéç Materials and Supplies: • 1/2 yard outer fabric • 1/2 yard lining fabric • 1/2 yard batting

• •

Piping 3 colors embroidery thread or floss

Instructions: • Measure the height, depth, and width of your teapot. • To make the pattern, add the following to these measurements: Height, add 1 1/2”. Width, add 1/2”. Depth, do not add any • Mark a rectangle for the front and back, using the height and width measurements (1). Then round the top corners, using a wide mouth canning jar lid. Cut out two each of outer fabric, lining, and batting. • Measure the distance around the sides and top of the D shape This distance will be the length of the insert, and your depth measurement the width (2). Cut out one each of outer fabric, lining and batting. • Draw a line down the center of the inset outer fabric, and trace the large design on page 88. • Satin stitch the design using the stitch widths indicated on the pattern (2).. • Either machine embroider or hand embroider a design that will go nicely with your teapot, in the colors of your teapot. Center the design as shown in (3). • Following the piping directions on page 60, sew piping onto the D shaped edges of your cozy, both outside pieces (3). • Draw a line around all edges, 5/8” from the piping. • Place small intersecting marks 1” apart on this line (4). By machine, using either a straight stitch or a back stitch, curve your stitching in and out along the line, intersecting at the marks. Use two different colors of thread for this. If you have problems, see the middle illustration on page 88. • With marking pen, draw a third line intersecting between the others, weaving in and out as above. Stitch this line with the lightest color thread (5). • Stitch the inset to the D shaped pieces. You will need to clip the inset to go around the curve of the outer fabric. Stitch from the outer side, directly over the first piping stitching. • Clip/notch the curves so they will lay properly when right side out (6). • Trim these two seams to 1/4”, and serge or zigzag the edge. • Topstitch the seam in place, at 1/8” seam allowance, onto the inset piece. Use thread that matches the fabric (7). Set aside. • Treat the lining and batting as one fabric. • As above, pin and stitch the inset to the D shaped pieces, lining fabric right sides together. Clip and notch as needed. Trim to 1/4” and finish the edge. • Cut off 1” from the open bottom edge of batting/lining piece (8). • Put batting/lining inside of outer piece, lining facing inside, batting in the middle, and outside fabric right side on the outside (9). • Turn the lower edge of the cozy inside and slip-stitch it to the lining or machine stitch 3/4” from bottom fold. • Place the cozy over the teapot. 90

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Satin Stitch Ribbon Pattern For Table Topper and Tea Cozy

Scallop pattern for Dressy Half Slip, Classy Straight Skirt, and Tea Time Table Topper.

Line dotted line up with line down the middle of the inset for tea cozy.

Line dotted line up 4” from the edge for the table topper.

Wide Ribbon Pattern: Darkest Color: 4.0 s.w. Medium Color: 2.5 s.w. Lightest Color: 2.0 s.w. Set Stitch Length at 0.35

Fold line for Tea Topper

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gxt g|Åx gtuÄx gÉÑÑxÜ Finished size: 49” X 49” Make tea time special with a table topper that coordinates with your tea set. Materials and Supplies: • 1 2/3 yards of linen fabric • Wash away basting thread • 3 colors of rayon thread

1.

Instructions: • Cut your fabric to a perfect 54” square. • Fold the square of fabric in half. • Trace the scalloped stitching line, page 88, onto one edge of your lengthwise folded fabric (1). • Do not cut out the scallops until later. • Set your machine up with wash away basting thread threaded on the top. Set your stitch length at 2.5. • Stitch, using stabilizer on the underneath side, on the stitching line. • Remove the stabilizer and cut out 1/4” from the stitching. • Clip where needed for scallops to turn and lay smoothly (2). See instructions on page 10. • Turn right side out, carefully poke out points, and press into shape with a dry iron (3). • Pour a small amount of water into a bowl. With your fingers, dampen the seam line. The stitches will dissolve. You may need to add a bit more if they don’t dissolve right away. • Once again, refold the width direction and repeat the above (4). • Open up and you have your border appliqué with all the edges turned perfectly. • Press well, and let these pieces dry completely before proceeding to the next step. • After pieces are dry, turn your border up so that the points of the scallops are 2 1/4” from the edge, and press in place (5). • Fold the corners according to the diagram to make a mitered corner. Mark the 45 degree angle on both sides of each corner where they meet with a washout marking pen (5). • Turn the corner inside out and stitch exactly on the marks (6). • Trim to 1/4”, and fold back into position. Press. • Pin the scallop tips in place, and using a wing needle and rayon thread, pinstitch the border in place (7). • Place an embroidery in each corner, stitching by either machine or by hand. Try to match your dishes, tea set, etc., in color and design. • Draw a line on each side of your table topper, 4” from the edge, and to within 1” of your embroidered design (8).

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b. 6.

7.

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d.

c.

•

•

• •

Using the large ribbon border pattern on page 88, draw lines onto your fabric using washout marking pen. You may now satin stitch this design, using the following machine settings: ..Darkest thread: stitch length of 0.35, stitch width of 4.0 ..Medium thread: stitch length of 0.35, stitch width of 3.0 ..Lightest thread: stitch length of 0.35, stitch width of 2.5 Your stitches will be more even if you use a walking foot. Be sure to use stabilizer underneath. Starch and press your tablecloth...enjoy!

fÑxv|tÄ atÑ~|Çá Finished size: 17” X 17” Complete your tea time ensemble with these matching napkins. Materials and Supplies: • 1/2 yard of linen fabric • 3 colors of rayon thread Instructions: • Cut fabric into two 18” square pieces. • Turn the edges under 1/4”, then again 1/4” for outside hem. • Select a fancy machine stitch and stitch the hem. • Stitch an embroidery in one corner, either by machine or hand. • Draw a line around all edges, 1 1/4” from outside edge, and 1” away from the embroidery, with washout marking pen. • Place small intersecting marks 1” apart on this line. By machine, using either a straight stitch or a back stitch, curve your stitching in and out along the line, intersecting at the marks. Use two different colors of thread for this. If you have problems, see the middle illustration on page 88. Be sure to use stabilizer under your fabric. • With marking pen, draw a third line intersecting between the others, weaving in and out as above. Stitch this line with the lightest color thread. • Starch and press your napkins. 93

[tÇw XÅuÜÉ|wxÜç fà|àv{xá Even if you don’t have a machine with fancy stitches, you can still embellish and make beautiful heirloom items by learning hand embroidery. Below are instructions for the basic stitches.

Chain Stitch

Using two strands of floss, bring needle up from the backside. Form a loop of thread in front of you. Put your needle into the fabric very close to where it came out. All in one motion, bring it back up about 1/4” away, pulling thread up over the top of the original thread loop. Repeat this sequence. Anchor the last stitch by going over the top thread and taking your needle

Chevron Stitch

The decorative chevron stitch is made using backstitches. Using two strands of floss, bring your thread up from the back side at 1. Take your needle through the fabric from 2 to 3, again through your fabric from 4 to 5, then from 6 to 4, then from 7 to 8. You are now back at 1 and may continue to repeat this sequence.

Back Stitch

The back stitch is used mainly for outlining. Using two strands of floss, bring your thread up from the backside about 1/8” in from the starting point of the design. In all one motion, put your needle down at the starting point, and bring it back up 1/8” beyond your original thread. Keep repeating this sequence. Work to make your stitches come to, but not into any existing stitches.

Satin Stitch

Satin stitches fill in an area. Using two strands of floss, and beginning from the wrong side of your fabric, bring the needle up at the end of your design. Stitch straight stitches closely together to fill in a solid shape. You may angle the stitches however you desire. Floss should be close, but not overlapping. 94

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Stem Stitch

The stem stitch can also be used as an outline stitch. Using two strands of floss, bring the needle up from the backside. Take a short back stitch while holding the loop of the floss to one side. Bring the needle halfway back along the stitch, pulling the stitch into place, while taking another small stitch. Pull this stitch into place, and follow the sequence of taking small stitches halfway back from the stitch you just made. Consistently hold the loop on either the inside or outside edge of the design.

Blanket Stitch

This is a nice stitch for appliqué as well as for finishing edges. Using two strands of floss, bring the needle up at A. You will insert at B and come out at C all in one stitch. B will be located about 1/4” away from the last stitch, and goes through the fabric. C is where it simply hooks under the thread from the last stitch. C becomes A for the next stitch. Repeat this sequence.

B. C. A.

Eyelet Stitch

Using two strands of floss, and beginning from the wrong side of your fabric, bring the needle up at #1, and go back down in the center. Repeat the rest of the way around, always coming up from the back, and going down in the center. Tension on your thread will create a hole in the middle, creating an “eyelet”. Draw the pattern for this onto your fabric in the shape of a square.

Feather Stitch

The looped feather stitch is a fun to make, decorative stitch. Draw lines on your fabric as shown, using a washout marking pen. Using two strands of floss and beginning at the top, bring your needle up from the backside on 1. All in one motion, insert your needle at 2, and bring it back up at 3, passing the floss under the needle point. Put your needle through at 4 and bring up at 5, again keeping the thread under the needle point. Repeat this sequence, making your feathers 3 to 5 stitches wide and then changing directions. 95

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Lazy Daisy Stitch

Cute flowers! Using two strands of floss, bring your needle up from the backside on a dot near the middle of your flower. Form a loop of thread in front of you. Put your needle into the fabric very close to where it came out. All in one motion, bring it back up about 1/4” away, pulling thread up over the top of the original thread loop. Make a small anchor stitch over the top of the floss loop to hold it in place. Bring your thread up at the next tiny dot and repeat this sequence.

French Knots

French knots are used for a variety of things...eyes, flower stamen, etc. Depending upon the size of your desired knot, use two - four strands of floss. Bring your needle up from the bottom side exactly where you want your knot to be. Holding your floss with one hand, take your needle and wrap the floss around it three or four times. Now direct your needle back down through the fabric, only a thread or two away from where you came up, and holding the floss taunt, pull it through.

Herringbone Stitch

The decorative herringbone stitch is a simple, interwoven stitch, which is worked left to right, with backstitches. Using two strands of floss, bring your needle up from the back side at 1. Take your needle through the fabric from 2 to 3, and again through the fabric at 4 to 5. You are now where you began the pattern., and you may continue to repeat this sequence.

Couching Stitch

The couching stitch is an easy stitch used to accent or outline a design. Using two strands of floss, bring your needle up from the back side, and lay your thread down following your design line from the back and moving forward. Cut your floss, leaving enough to finish your line. Bring another needle with floss up and put a small stitch over the top of your main thread, which you are holding in place with your thumb. Repeat these stitches about 1/4” apart.

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XÅuÜÉ|wxÜç Wxá|zÇá Here are a few designs you can hand embroider onto your squares for embellishment. You may outline stitch the designs or fill in. Feel free to enlarge or decrease the design as needed. Remember, true heirloom used pastel colors. I would suggest finding three soft colors, one main one that you can match with silk ribbon for the beading.

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YÜÉÅ à{x UâÇ~{ÉâáxAAA Learn to sew. From plugging in the sewing machine to creating a pair of pajamas, Stitches & Pins guides the novice seamstress with clear, step-by-step instructions. 14 projects complete with patterns, girls sizes 8 - 16, are useful items the seamstress will be proud to use, wear, or give. Tote bags, vests, and blankets: each project focuses on mastering specific techniques, and builds upon skills learned. Special techniques - bias tape, quilting, embellishments ensure the final creation will be as professionally constructed as it was fun to make. Buckles & Bobbins, A Beginning Sewing Book for Boys, is complete with projects arranged from elementary - a pillowcase and laundry bag - to the more advanced - duffel bags, back packs, cargo pants, and a reversible sports vest that can be customized with pockets, mesh lining, and a zippered front closure. The stepby-step instructions and illustrations clearly present the chosen technique, with each project building upon techniques previously introduced. All patterns, boys sizes 8 - 16 are included! Pins & Needles continues what Stitches & Pins started, delving into more difficult sewing techniques like waistbands, zippers, and set-in sleeves. There are sections on polar fleece, heirloom sewing, quilting, and projects using the serger. In all, there are over 30 projects, something to be stitched or quilted for every season of the year. All the patterns, girls sizes 8 - 16 and misses sizes 8 - 16 are included in a handy pocket built into the back of the book. Make outfits for yourself, and matching ones for your doll with our 18” doll clothing patterns that coordinate with the sewing projects in each of our learn to sew books.

Make your own cloth doll from our 18” or 36” “Children of the World” doll patterns. Each pattern contains directions for the doll and one outfit for each nationality.

Check out our website: www.bunkhousesewing.com or call us to order: 1-800-337-8845

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dâ|Äà|Çz ctààxÜÇá We offer quick and easy quilt patterns for the beginner, with a variety of themes for children as well as adult interests. Most projects use piecing and/or fusible appliqué. Projects include pillows, potholders, wall hangings, travel games, table runners, placemats, doll quilts, Christmas projects, and traditional quilts in all sizes. All 14 patterns can easily be completed by a beginning student. We have more challenging projects for the experienced, skilled quilter including gorgeous stained glass church banners, intricately pieced quilts, and inspirational designs. Seven beautiful patterns have been designed for the veteran quilt maker. Check out our website to view all of our quilting projects, in larger sizes, with complete descriptions and sizes for each project. We are adding new seasonal church banner designs to this section - so check back often.

fxã|Çz fâÑÑÄ|xá

Tvà|ä|àç Utzá Cute, fun, and simple beginning sewing projects in a bag. Quick, too! Includes fabrics and supplies - all at a price you can afford!

Gingher dressmaking scissors and shears - Wonder Tape - Quick Bias - Quilt Fuse - and more! We offer our favorite sewing supplies for you at discounted prices on our website.

jxuá|àx www.bunkhousesewing.com All of our products, with complete descriptions and pictures, sample pages of books, prices and easy online ordering. For any additional information, or to call to order, contact JoAnn, 1-800-337-8845.

Tvà|ä|à|xá 9 gxtv{|Çz T|wá Browse through our website - free puzzles, sewing tips, home school curriculum guide pages for Stitches & Pins and Buckles & Bobbins, free sewing projects, and photo gallery. Great teacher resources! 99

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