Mexican Cookery (Illustrated)

Barbara Hansen

CONTENTS , Bienvenidos! What is it? Chiles

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Bebidas (Drinks)

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Aperitivos y Botanas (Appetizers & Snacks) Salsas (Sauces) Sopas (Soups)

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Ensaladas y Verduras (Salads & Vegetables) Platos con Tortillas (Tortilla Dishes) Carnes y Aves (Meats & Poultry)

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Postres (Desserts) Index

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Arroz y Frijoles (Rice & Beans) Panes (Breads)

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Pescados y Mariscos (Fish & Shellfish) Huevos (Eggs)

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2 5 6 10 22 32 41 55 73 104 124 133 139 154 168 187 .

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ANOTHER BEST-SELLING COOKERY VOLUME FROM H.P. ROOKS Publisher: Helen Fisher; Editors: Carlene Tejada, Carroll Latham; Art Director: Don Burton; Book Assembly: Aspen Green, Tom Jakeway; Typography: Cindy Coatsworth, Joanne Porter, Kris Spitler; Food Stylist: Mable HolT­ man; Photography: George deGennaro Studios.

Published by H.P. Books, P.O. Box 5367, Tucson, AZ 85703602/888-2150 ISBN 0-89586-038-4 Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 80-80168 "1980 Fisher Publishing, Inc. Printed in U.S.A. Cover Photo: Enchiladas de Polio {Deluxe Chicken Enchiladas}, page 80

i BIENVENIDOS! Welcome to M exican cooking! M e x ico ' s food is as exciting and colorful as its art and music, as dramatic as its h istory and as appealing as its l ive­ ly, warm-hearted people . It is also immense ly practical , good for you and so varied that monotony is i mpossible. Yet what is known beyond the Mex ican border about this entrancing food scarcely amounts to the crumb of a tortilla. Ta c o s , ta m a les a n d e n c h i la da s a r e t a s t y ambassadors. But these and the few other dishes featured by Mexican restaurants outside the country only hint at greater riches. Over the centuries, resourceful Mexican cooks have made the most of whatever the land pro­ duced. Squash flowers go into soups, and squash seeds are ground for sauces� banana leaves are wrapped around barbecued meats and tamales; nopales, or diced cactus, are added to salads and stews� and avocado leaves flavor some dishes. Native herbs and plants such as cilantro and epazote are not dismissed as weeds, but used to give some dishes their distinctive flavors. And the m ost basic of all M e xican i ngredients- corn and chiles- are used with i ncredible variety. Some cuisines reach their peak i n ornate dishes req u i r i ng c o m p licated sauces and e x pe ns ive ingredients. But the sim plest Mex ican dishes are as n otable as fiesta specialties that take hou rs to prepare. The aromas and flavors o f fresh corn tor­ tillas, really good refried beans, rice seasoned to perfection , and the wonderful soft rolls called Boli/los (French Ro lls) , page 1 6 I , are d ifficult to surpass. On my first trip to M e x ico , I was struck by the charm and i ngenui ty o f the food. The basket of pan dulce, or sweet bread, served for breakfast in Guanajuato was a revelation . Plump, sweet Guanajuato strawbe rries smothered with thick cream and sprinkled with coarse sugar were something to sigh over. And why did no one at home spice and sweeten coffee in the manner of Cafe de alia (Clay Pot Coffee) - served in rustic pottery mugs? The recipe is o n page 20. 2

Mexico's Many Cuisines I t ' s difficult to generalize about M ex ican food , because there is not one cuisin e - but many. Dishes vary markedly from region to regio n . Each t o w n a n d c i t y h a s i t s o w n version of regional specialties and i ndividual cooks add their own touches. A lthough i ntriguing dishes are found throughout the country , Puebla, Veracruz, Oax­ aca and Yucatan are especially noted for their cuisines. Puebla, Veracruz and Oaxaca are also the names of large cities within their respective states.

PUEBLA Mole Poblano (Mole Puebla-Style ) , page 1 1 6 , is considered the national dish of Mexico. This baroque creation consists of turkey or chicken in a dark sauce flavored with chocolate and a multitude of chiles and spices. What could be more imaginative than Chiles en Nogada (Chiles in Nut Sauce) , page 64, fresh chiles stuffed with meat and fruits, topped with a creamy n u t sauce and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds? This dish was created i n the city of Puebla in 1 8 2 1 to honor General Agustin Iturbide after he had signed the treaties proclaiming Mexico's independence from Spai n . Its colors represent the red, white and green o f the M e xican flag. VERACRUZ A spectacular drive leads from Puebla to the city of Veracruz where you can find a wealth of seafood . Famous Huachinango a la Veracruzana (Red S napper Veracruz-Style ) , page 1 2 8 , origi­ nated here. You'll also fin d succulent tamales wrapped i n banana leaves , an abundance of tropi­ cal fru its and possibly the best coffee in the world. Papantla, just n orth of Veracruz, gives us Mex­ ico's heady van illa. I t is produced from orchid pods harvested by the Totonac Indians.

OAXACA The cooking of Oaxaca - pronou nced wah-HA­ ka-is not as easy to u ncover beca use it flo urishes in homes - n ot in restaurants. The o nly Oaxacan cookbook I could find was a handwritten heir­ loom belonging to a local fam ily. H owever, a few restaurants offer typical dishes. Oaxaca is noted for the variety and excellence of its moles, for chocolate, coffee and cheese. A Oaxacan version of string cheese called quesillo comes in thin strips rolled into coils. It is here that the potent, smoke­ flavored liquo r called mezcal is distilled fro m the maguey plan t . YUCAT A N Mexico 's most distinctive cuisine is probably that o f Yucatfm. One specialty is Polio Pibil (Baked C h i c k en ) , page 1 2 0 , c h i c k e n coated w i t h seasoned r e d paste, wrapped i n banana leaves and cooked in pits dug in the ground. Also typical are Sopa de Lima (Lime & Tortilla Soup) , page 4 5 , a n d Panuchos Merida (Panuchos Merida-Style) , page 1 00, smal l tortillas topped with black beans and gar n ishes. Lebanese restaurants i n Merida, Yucatan 's capital, add even m ore variety by serv­ ing A rabic pocket bread in stead of tortillas or boli/los with a meal. NORT H ERN M EXICO The northern part of the country is the regio n of flour tortillas, tamales wrapped in hojas, or dried corn husks, instead of banana leaves, and the spicy meat and chile dishes that spilled over into the southwestern United States. Flo ur tor­ tillas origin ated in the state of Sonora , and enor­ mous tortillas so thin they are alm ost transparent can be found there and in neighboring A rizona. PAC I F I C COAST Th e west coast of Mexico abounds in seafood. I n En senada, you can have chorizo made with abalone, excellent lobster dishes and tacos co n­ taining deep-fried , batter-coated nuggets o f fish. Turtle is a Baja California specialty , while Mazat­ Ian o ffers a great variety of shrimp dishes includ­ ing Coctel de Ca marones Mazattan (S h r i m p C ocktail Mazatlan -Style ) , page 1 2 6. Acapulco i s noted for ceviche, an appetizer of marinated fish . Ceviche de A lberto (Alberto's Mari nated Fish ) , is on page 1 2 5 . UNITED STATES BORDER The regional character of Mex ican food can also be seen in the Un ited S tates. California,

Arizona, New Mexico and Texas rest on the Mex ican border and each has its own approach to Mexican food. RESTAURANT FARE Mexican combination plates, common in the Un ited S tates, are overwhelming and often heavi­ ly sauced m eals: enchiladas, tacos, tamales, chiles rellenos, rice and beans - all on one plate ! No one eats that way in M exico. Tacos and tamales are sn ack foods. The main m eal, served i n the early afterno o n , consists of seve ral courses fro m soup through dessert. Many restaurants offer the ca­ mida corrida. This fixed-price luncheon with a set menu of several courses demonstrates how Mex­ ican people really eat. Lu nch one day at D ona El pidia 's, a home-style restau rant in the city o f Oaxaca, started with an appetizer plate of chicharrones, or pork cracklings, barbecued ribs and an empanada, or turnover, filled with sauteed onion, a l ittle chile and the herb, epazote. Nex t came a soup o f verm icelli i n tomato juice. A rroz a la Mexicana (R ice Mexican­ S tyle) , page 1 40, followed as a separate cou rse. The waitress then brought a plate of Mole Cola­ rado de Oaxaca (Oaxacan R ed Mole), page 1 1 2. Beans cooked with bacon and served in their broth appeared after the meat. D esse rt was the small orange fru it , tejocote, served in syrup. A cup of strong, fragrant coffee ended this sumptuous but m odestly priced comida, o r luncheon. Lunch was simpler at the Neveria Gypsy, a lit­ tle cafe o n the main plaza of Tlaxcala. Here the menu included broth containing a choice of rice or pasta followed by a pork chop in tomato sauce with chiles, a plate o f beans and, for dessert, A rroz con Leche (Rice Pudding) , page 17 2. A t P r e n d es, a restaurant i n t h e c i ty o f Veracruz, I had cream of corn s o u p followed by paella-style rice and Pescado A leman (Fish �er­ man-Style) , page 13 2 , with boli/los, chiles and lime wedges on the side. Dessert was Flan Napolitano de Veracruz (Neapolitan Flan from Veracruz) , page 17 1 , and coffee. HOME COO KING H o me-style m eals can be as elaborate as restau rant fare. Bertha De lfin de Rod riguez, my friend in Veracruz, serves generous comidas to her fam ily during the long mid-day break. One day we had a Oaxacan-style mole resembling Mole Poblano (Mole Puebla-Style) , page 116, but swe e t e r . S e rved with i t were A rroz a la Veracruzana (R ice Veracru z-S tyle) , page 1 46 , Fri­ joles Negros (Black Beans) , page 1 5 1, a cho ice of 3

tortillas o r b r e a d a n d A gua de Na ranja (Orangeade) , page 2 1 . For dessert, we ate mangos from the tree that shades the patio and Pan Tity (Tity's Cake) , page 1 80, made by Bertha's daughter. M e x ican cooks p re fe r fre s h i n gre d i e n t s , a l t h o u g h supermarkets s t o c k i n s t a n t re fr i e d beans, baking m ix es, frozen pael/a and o t h e r con­ venience products. I n general, the national taste for freshly prepared foods makes Mexican cuisine healthfu l and natural. Mexican cooks seem to k n ow instinct ively wh a t is beneficial . Beans sprinkled with shredded cheese are rich in pro­ tei n . And tacos are perfect little meals, combining meat, fresh vegetable garnishes and cheese i n a neat tortilla package . No matter how hu mble a dish, i t is always fresh , tasty and prettily garnished, for Mex ican

cooks are a rtists at heart. They will add a slice of tomato, a bit o f cilantro, a lime wedge here , a thin carrot curl there and a ruffle of lettuce before they feel the dish is fit to serve . Fortu nately, i ngredients for Mex ican cook ing are becom i ng widely available in other parts of the world . Even unus ual vegetables such as chayotes, jIcamas and the little green tomatoes called tomatil/os are finding their way into the world's markets. H owever, you need only a few basic foods to prepare a wide variety of dishes: chiles, wh ich can be fresh or canned, cheese and i nstant masa. Many reci pes i n this book requi re no special i ngredients at all. Nevertheless, they are authentically M e x ican , acquired from good cooks o n both sides of the border during many years o f delightful dining. I k now you will e njoy them.

BARBARA HAN SEN Barbara has always e njoyed Mex ican cooking. She even taught herself Spanish so she could read original recipes and talk about food with Mex ican cooks. A staff writer for the food department of the Los A ngeles Times, Barbara writes " Border Line , " a col u m n o n Mexican food n ow appearing i n many newspapers. Mexican Cookery is her third cookbook . B a r b a r a t r a v e l s w i d e l y a n d fr e q u e n t l y throughout Mexico , visiting markets, studying the produce and asking vendors how to prepare various foods. She d iscusses regional dishes with waiters and chefs i n well-known restaurants as well as in n eighborhood cafes. When she returns to her home in Los A ngeles, Barbara searches the markets for Mexican foods and their substitutes. The n , i n her own kitchen, she tests and duplicates the recipes discovered in her travels. Perhaps o n your Mexican vacation, you'll enter a restaurant and recognize Barbara as one of the diners. I f she is carefu lly sampling the food while a chef and waiter hover anxiously, you'll know she is o n the track of a new recipe. 4

WHAT IS IT? Achiote (ah-chee-OH-tay) -Dark red seeds from the annatto tree. Achiote is used for coloring and flavoring and is available in both seed and paste forms. Biznaga (biz-NAH-ga) -Candied cactus. It is eaten as a sweet or chopped and used in desserts and other dishes. Citron may be substituted. Candied pineapple, although different in flavor, is close in texture. Chayote (chy-OH-tay) -Delicately flavored, pear­ shaped, light green squash. It may be large or small, spiny or smooth. The seed is flat and edible. The peel is not edible. Pattypan squash may be substituted. Chorizo (chor-EE-so) -Spicy sausage. It may be made with either pork or beef. Chorizo labeled Spanish-style is milder than Mexican-style. Cilantro (see-LAHN -tro) -Fresh coriander. It is commonly used in Mexico as a flavoring and garnish. You can grow your own. Buy the seeds (coriander) from the spice department in a supermarket. Plant them during warm weather after all danger of frost is past. Cilantro is also available in Oriental markets where it is called Chinese parsley. E pazote (ay-pah-ZOH-tay) -A medicinal-tasting herb used in cooking black beans and often added to quesadillas. It grows wild in some areas. Its botanical name is Chenopodium am bros ioides. Hojas (OH-hass) -Dried corn husks used as a wrap­ ping for tamales. Rectangles of aluminum foil can be substituted. Jamaica (ha-MIKE-ah) -Dried red hibiscus flowers. They are soaked in water to make a refreshing drink that has a light acid flavor. On the island of Jamaica, the flowers are called roselle. Another Caribbean name is sorrel. Their botanical name is Hibiscus sabdariffa. Jicama (HEE-kah-mah) -A crisp, sweet, white root vegetable shaped somewhat like a turnip and covered with a brown skin. They range from small to very large. They are peeled, sliced and eaten raw. Masa (MAH-sah) -Corn dough used for tortillas, tamales and other dishes. To make masa, dried corn kernels are cooked with calcium oxide, or lime, until the skins loosen. When the skins are removed, the corn is called nixtamal which is then ground to make masa. Instant masa is dried corn flour. It is mixed with water to make regular masa. Mole (MOH- I ay) - H ighly flavored sauce made from a paste of chiles, chocolate and other ingredients. The paste is available in stores selling Mexican foods.

Nopales

(noh-PAH-Iays) or Nopalitos

(noh-pah­

LEE-tohs) -Small pads or leaves of the prickly pear cactus. They should be handled very carefully as the needles are painfully sharp and must be removed before using. Pepitas (peh-PEE-tahs) -Hulled unsalted pumpkin seeds or squash seeds. They are salted and served as a snack, ground for sauces and sometimes used to make candy. Look for them in health food stores. Piloncillo (pee-Ion-SEE-yoh) - Unrefined brown sugar in the form of hard cones. The cones come in a variety of sizes. It is also called panocha. Dark brown sugar is a good substitute. PJatanos (PLAH-tan-ohs) -Bananas. Mexico grows many varieties which differ in size, color and flavor. Queso Fresco (KAY-soh FRES-coh) -Soft, white, crumbly cheese made from cow's milk. It is used in cooking or sprinkled over foods as a garnish. It is pro­ duced in Mexico as well as in areas that specialize in Mexican food. Other commonly used cheeses are Monterey Jack cheese and Cheddar cheese. Rajas de Chiles (RAH-hass day CHEE-Iays) -Strips of peeled roasted green chiles. Used in cooking. Recado Colorado (ray-KAH-doh cohl-or-AH-doh)­ A paste of achiote, see above, and seasonings such as pepper, cloves, cumin, garlic, oregano, salt and vinegar. Used extensively in Yucatan, it is also availa­ ble in some Mexican markets outside the country. It may be called adobo de achiote, achiote condimentado or recado rojo. Tamarindo (tah-mar-EEN-doh) -Fruit of the tamarind tree. It comes in brown pods with the pulp clinging to large seeds inside. It is also used in Indian and Southeast Asian cooking. Tomatillos (toh-mah-TEE-yohs) -Small, firm green tomatoes. They are covered with a paper-like husk which is removed before they are cooked. Tomatillos may be as small as a marble or as large as a lime. Their distinctive acid flavor makes them excellent for sauces. They are available in many areas fresh or canned. Tortillas (tor-TEE-yahs) - Flat bread made of corn flour or white flour. Considered the national bread of Mexico, they are used to make enchiladas, tacos, bur­ ritos, totopos, quesadillas and other Mexican foods. Verba Buena (YER-bah BWA Y-nah) -Spearmint. It is widely used in Mexican cooking. Plain mint may be substituted but the flavor is slightly different.

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CHILES The most characteristic seasoning in Me xican cuisine is the chile. Fresh or dried , m ild or hot, chiles appear in a multitude of dishes from the intricately spiced Mole Poblano (Mole Puebla­ S tyle ) , page 1 1 6 , to Chile con Queso (Chile with C heese ) , page 24, a simple party dip. The use of a particu lar chile in certain Mexican dishes is t raditional. However, all chiles do not grow in any one region so cooks use whatever chiles are available in their area. A differen t chile may change the flavor of the dish only slightly. Most o f us cannot de tect these subtle flavor differences. As you become acqu ain ted with chiles and the flavor and amount of heat each con­ tributes, you will be able to su bstitute one chile for another, or one form o f chile for another ' depending on what you have available . I f you can 't buy fresh chiles, use canned chiles. If poblano chiles are not available , use fresh or canned California chiles. Substitute jalapenos for serranos and vice versa. And if no hot chiles are available, u se cru shed dried chiles, ground red pepper or hot pepper sauce. Substitute chili powder for whole dried chiles in

KNOW YOUR C HILES

dishes in which the chiles are pureed , allowing about one ta blespoon of powder for each large chile. Use pure ground chile, if it 's avai lable , rather than the powders containing add itional season ings. The following information will help you decide which available chiles are best for the dish you want to prepare. California or Anaheim -Mild, long green chiles are named for the area near Los A ngeles where they were once cultivated. You can buy them can­ ned - whole or cho pped . They are marketed fresh in some areas. Jalapeno- Small, hot jalapeno chiles are named for Jalapa , the capital of Veracruz. They are wide­ ly distributed fresh , canned o r pickled. Serrano- Smaller and slimmer than jalapeno chiles and very hot , serrano chiles are available canned and sometimes fresh. Poblano, Ancho or Pas i l l a - Fresh chiles include mild t o m edium hot, plump, dark green poblano chiles, also called ancho or pasilla chiles. They are ideal for stuffing with cheese or meat mix tures. Giiero - N ot widely available, small hot guero chiles can be recognized by their pale yellow color . They are sometimes called wax chiles. BEAT T H E H EAT A popular m isconception about chiles is that the hottest part is the seeds. The heat act ually comes from a su bstance called capsaicin in the veins. A n y t h i ng t o u ching capsaicin, such as y o u r fingers , may b e irritated.

CAUTION After h andling chiles, do not touch you r face. Capsaicin stings sensitive areas such as eyes and lips If you're processing a large quantity of chiles, or if you have sensitive skin, wear ru bber gloves , avai lable at drug stores .

1 2 3 4

5

6 7

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Fresh Poblano Chiles Canned California Chile Serrano Chiles Jalapeno Chiles New Mexico Chile Guajillo Chiles Canned Chipolle Chiles Dried Chipolle Chile

Pasilla Negro Chile Dried California Chile Dried Ancho Chile Mulato Chile Dried Japones Chiles Fresh California Chiles 15 GUero Chiles

9 10 11 12 13 14

Chiles are u n predictable. A chile from a variety that is normally mild may possess ex treme heat. As a precautio n , sample mild Califo rnia and pob­ lano chiles before adding them to other foods. I f they are hotter than y o u wis h , reduce t h e quan­ tity used . Some Me xican coo ks reduce the heat in chiles by soaking peeled roasted chiles in salted water fo r several hours. Then they rinse the chiles thoro ughly before using them. Another way to main tain the flavor and appearance of the chile, while reducing the heat, is to substit ute sweet green pepper for half the amount of chile called for in the reci pe . 7

B lister fresh chiles in a broiler, turning as needed.

O r, toast them on a rack over a stove-top burner u ntil bl istered.

How To Roast & Peel Chiles

Or, deep-fry fresh chiles in hot oil until blistered.

8

Then place hot chiles in a plastic bag to steam. When cooled, pull off loosened peel.

HOW TO P E E L FRESH CHILES Before chiles can be peeled , their skins must be loosened. Do this by broiling, grilling or frying. Broiling-Place chiles on a baking sheet in the broiler 3 t o 4 inches from the h eat. Broil until they are blistered o n all sides, turning o ften with tongs. Remove chiles and place them in a plastic bag or brown paper bag. Let them steam in the bag for 1 0 t o 1 5 m i nu tes, then strip o ff the peel with your fingers or the tip o f a knife . Grilling -Place a w ire rack o ver y o u r stove burner. Place the chiles on the rack and cook until they are blistered all o ver, turning frequently. Place them i n a plastic bag o r brown paper bag to steam for 10 t o 1 5 m i n u tes before peeling. Fryi ng-Fry chiles i n h o t o il in a saucepan or skillet until pale blisters appear o n all sides. D rai n , cool them slightly and peel. Use extreme caution because the spattering hot oil can cause severe burns. USE & STORA G E To use a chile wh ole, cu t a s m a l l s l it in one side and carefully r inse i t u nder running cold water to remove the seeds. You can freeze peeled chiles. If you plan to u se only one or two at a time, wrap them individually in plastic wrap, then p lace them in a plastic bag , seal and freeze. To use chiles i n bulk, pack them u nwrapped in freezer cartons. You can also freeze

chiles that are blistered but u n peeled. They peel easily when thawed.

Dried Chiles In Mexico , the most frequently used dried chiles are ancho, mulato and pasilla chiles. They are not markedly hot . If you 're looking for a fiery dried chile, pico de pajaro, arbol, tepfn, serrano, cascabel, guajillos and japones chiles add more fire than most people can take! Chipotle chiles have a d istinctive smoky flavor. They can be bought dried or canned in a marinade called adobo. Packages of dried California and New Mexico chiles look alike, but New Mexico chiles are hotter than the California variety. HOW TO PREPAR E D R I ED CHILE S For most dishes, d ried chiles must be soaked until they are soft and then pu reed. To soften dried chiles, place them in a saucepan, cover with water and bring to a boil. Remove the saucepan fro m the heat and let the chiles soak in the hot water until softened. The papery peel may remain somewhat stiff, but t he pulp will becom e tender. To puree, remove the stems and seeds. Process the chiles in a blender or food processor with just enough liquid to make a paste. Press the pureed chiles through a sieve to remove any bits of peel, then use the puree as d irected .

How To Prepare Dried Chiles Soak chiles in water until softened a nd pliable.

P uree soaked chiles i n a blender. P ress through a sieve.

9

"" Beb·das Drinks

Mex ico is a wonderful place to be thirsty. When the brilliant sun makes you long for a cooling drink, there's a multitude of choices. Markets and snack stands display huge jars filled with spar­ kling fru i t drinks called aguas jrescas, or cool waters. One of the most popular is orange juice made fro m Mexico's naturally sweet oranges. Try a ticuado, made by blending bananas, pa payas , strawberries or other fruits with milk, ice and sugar. The version here is Licuado de Fresas (Whi pped Strawberry Dri nk) . Veracruz, Oaxaca and Chiapas are the impor­ tant coffee-producing states, but wherever you are in Mexico , you m ust start the day with a cu p of smooth, rich coffee. Many mornings I have awakened in my hotel room in Veracruz to the sou nds fro m the nearby Gran Cafe de la Parro­ quia. C ustomers clink m etal spoons against heavy glasses to summon an apron-clad man who car­ ries a kettle in each hand . He pours a little coffee into a customer's glass fro m one kettle and fills it with hot milk fro m the other. Then the customer stirs i n sugar and drinks unsurpassed coffee!

C O C KTA I L

Mexican hot chocolate is traditio nally made of chocolate blended with sugar, cinnamon and some times ground almonds. I have an old recipe describ ing how toasted cacao beans are ground with sugar and cinnamon o n the slanted grinding stone, or metate. Fire u nder the metate m elts the m ixture t o a paste that is m olded into tablets, then dried . To make a su bstitute for Mexican chocolate tablets, see page 1 3 . Hot chocolate is beaten with a molinillo until frothy. The molinillo is a carved wooden beater with loose rings that whirl thro ugh t he chocolate as you spin the han­ dle back and forth between your palms, page 1 9 . A tole is a hot, thick gruel of masa, or corn dough , diluted with water or milk. It may be plain or sweetened. When flavored with chocolate, it is called champurrado. A tole de Francisco Morales (Francisco Morales' A tole) and Champurrado de Marfa (Maria's Champurrado) are i ncluded here . Mexico has excellent beers, wines, brandies, rums and liqueurs. Kahlua, the country's famous coffee liqueur, is delicious poured over ice cream or served as an after-dinner drink.

(JF F ET

Margarita (Margarita) Agua de Jamaica (Jamaica Flower Water) Agua de Limon (Limeade) Chile con Queso (Chile with Cheese) Botana de Frijol (Bean Dip) Empanadas de Picadillo (Meat Turnovers) Botana de Jicama (Jicama Snack) Taquitos (Little Tacos) Guacamole (Avocado Sauce) Ensalada Tropical (Tropical Salad)

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12 17 21 24 24 31 27 90 40 61

Drinks

Marga rita

Photo on page 1 1 .

Ma rga rita

Mexico 's classic cocktail.

1 lime wedge Salt 2 oz. tequila

3/4 oz. Triple Sec 1 tablespoon lime j u ice Ice cubes

Rub rim of a glass with lime wedge, then swirl in salt to coat rim. Combine remaining ingredients in a cocktail s haker. S hake vigorously, then strain into prepared glass. Makes 1 serving. Variations M argarita de Granada (Pomegranate Margarita) : S hake 1 teaspoon pomegranate seeds with mixture in cocktail shaker. M argarita de N aranj a (Orange M argarita) : Omit Triple Sec. Add 2 tablespoons orange juice and 2 teaspoons Simple Syrup, page 2 1 , to ingredients in cocktail shaker. Shake thoroughly.

Tequila Tijuana del Sol Teq u i la S u nrise

This Tequila Sunrise has more flavor than most versions.

1-1/2 oz. tequila 2 teaspoons lime j u ice 2 teaspoons gren adine

1/4 cup strai ned orange juice (2 oz.) Ice cubes

Combine tequ ila, lime j u ice , grenadine and o range j u ice in cocktail glass and stir. Add ice cubes. Makes 1 serving.

Tequila Daiquiri Teq u i la Daiq u i ri

The variation is from Leon, Gua najua to.

1-1/2 oz. tequila 1-1/2 teaspoons lime j uice

1 teaspoon sugar Ice cubes

Combine tequ ila, lime juice and sugar with ice cubes in a cocktail shaker. Shake thoroughly and pour into a cocktail glass . Makes 1 serving. Variation Mulata (Tawny Daiquiri) : S ubstitute gold rum for the tequila. Increase the lime juice to 1 table­ spoon . Blend all ingredients thoroughly in a blender. S erve in a cocktail glass.

12

On the preceding page, from top to bottom: Margarita de G ra nada (Pomegranate Margarita ) , Margarita de Naranja (Orange Margarita ) , a n d a plain Margarita.

Drinks

Ponche de Gra nada Pomegra nate Punch

A delightful aperitif to stimulate your appetite, or a soothing after-dinner drink.

4 l arge pomegranates 8 oz. gold tequ ila 1/2 cup sugar

1/4 cu p water 1 cinn amon stick

Cut pomegranates in half. Peel back skins and remove seeds with your fi ngers or a spoo n . Place seeds in food processor or blender. Grind until pulp is pu reed and ju ice ex tracted. Turn i n to a sieve over a bowl . Press pulp with back of spoon to extract all juice. Discard seeds. Strain juice through a fin e sieve, then through a fine cloth or paper coffee filter to remove bits of pulp. There should be about 2 cups juice . In a medium bowl, combine pomegranate ju ice and tequila. Place sugar and water in a saucepan and heat until sugar is disso lved and syru p is clear. Add syrup to j uice m i xt ure. Pour into a sterilized I -quart jar. Add cinnamon stick . S eal and let stand in a dark place 1 month . To serve, strain mixture and serve as an aperitif or an after-dinner dri n k . Makes about 3 - 1 /3 cups.

S a ngrita Guadalaj a ra Sa ngrita G uada lajara -Style

Serve this s weet and spicy-hot fruit drink beside another liqueur glass of straight tequila.

1 cup orange j uice 2 t ablespoons plus 2 teaspoons lime j uice 4 teaspoon s grenadine

1/4 teaspoon freshly grou nd pepper Salt 1/2 teaspoon hot pepper sauce, or to t aste

I n a small pitcher, com bine orange juice , lime juice , grenadine, pepper, salt to taste and enough hot pepper sauce t o give a decidedly spicy taste . Serve i n shot glasses or liqueur glasses as an accompaniment to tequila. Makes 1 - 1 /3 cups.

MEXICAN SPICED CHOCOLATE Mex icans use tablets of spiced chocolate to make beverages and i n cooking. For the equiva­ lent of one 3 -o u nce tablet of Mex ican chocolate,

use 3 ou nces of sem isweet chocolate , 2 table­ spoons of sugar, 114 teaspoon of van illa extract and 11 2 teaspoon of cinnam o n .

13

Dri nks

Sang rita de Tomate T ornata Sangrita

To make a Bloody Mary, follo w the instructions in the variation.

4 s mall tomatoes, peeled , seeded (1 Ib J 1/2 cup orange j u ice 3 tablespoons chopped onion 1 serrano chile or other small hot chile, seeded

1 tablespoon lime j u ice 2 teaspoons sugar 1/4 teaspoon salt

Combine tomatoes, orange juice , o nion , chile, lime juice, sugar and salt in a blender. Blend until pureed. Add more salt if needed. Serve in shot or liqu eur glasses as an accom paniment to tequila. Makes 2 cups. Variation Sangrita Maria (Bloody M ary) : Pou r 3 ou nces Sangrita de Tomate into a cocktail glass. S tir in 1 ounce vodka. Add ice cu bes . Squeeze j uice from a lime wedge into sangrita mixtu re then d rop lime wedge i n t o mixture. M akes 1 serving.

Licor de Cafe Coffee Liqueur

For a more authentic KahlLJa fla vor, use Mexican instant coffee granules.

1/4 cup M exican Nescafe or other instant coffee granules 2 cups sugar

1 cu p boiling water 1-2/3 cups brandy 1 small vanilla bean

Sterilize a I -quart canning jar and lid according to manufacturer 's instru ctions. Place coffee gra­ nules and sugar in blender. Add boiling water and brandy. Blend at low to medium speed 5 to 1 0 minutes turning blender off occasionally. I f blender begins t o overflow, reduce speed . Pour into sterilized jar. Add vanilla bean . Cover tightly with sterilized lid . Let stand in a cool dark place 4 to 6 weeks. Remove vanil1a bean . Makes 1 qu art .

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Drinks

Cazuela Cassero le Cocktai l

It takes a big thirst to handle this enormous drink.

1 orange, halved 1/2 small grapefruit 2 to 3 oz. vodka 1/2 cup Squirt

6 tablespoons strai ned orange j u ice or 6 ice cubes Few grains coarse salt

5

Squeeze j uice fro m half o f o range into a shallow 4 to 5 -cup casserole or large brandy snifter. Cut 2 thin slices from remain ing orange half� set aside . R eserve remaining orange for another use. Squeeze juice from grapefruit into casserole. Add vodka, Squirt, orange j u ice and ice cubes. Sprinkle with salt� stir. Float o range slices on top of m ixture . Serve with a straw. Makes I serving.

Mexican Sling Mexican S l i ng

If you 're in the mood for a tall, cool, exotic drink, try this.

3/4 cup Agua de Jam aica, page 17 1-1/2 to 2 oz. vodka 1 tablespoon lime j uice 1-1/2 teaspoons gren adine

3 or 4 ice cubes 1/2 orange slice 1 m araschino cherry M int sprigs

Prepare Agua de Jamaica. In a tall glass, combine vodka, lime ju ice , grenadine and Agua de Jamaica. Add ice cubes; stir. Spear orange slice and cherry on a long cocktail pick. Place pick in glass. Garnish glass with mint sprigs. M akes I serv ing.

Kahhla' Aleja ndro Kah lua Alexander

Smooth, cool and not too sweet. Besito, the dessert variation, is fun to watch.

1 oz. Kahlua 1 oz. gin

2 tablespoons Wh ipping cream 3 or 4 ice cubes

Combine Kah lua , gin and cream in a cocktail shaker with ice cubes. Shake vigorously. St rain into a stemmed cocktail glass . M akes I serv ing. Variat ion Besito (Kiss) : Fill a liqueur glass half fu ll with Kah lua. Spoon abo u t 2 teaspoons evaporated milk on top. The Kah lua will boil up into the milk.

15

Dri nks

Cafe ]V\exicano Mexican Coffee

A wonderflll, warming drink for frosty weather.

Dash ground cinnamon Hot coffee Sweetened whipped cream

1 oz. Kahlua 1/2 oz. brandy 1 teaspoon chocolate syrup

Place Kah lua , brandy , chocolate syrup and cinnamon in a coffee cu p or m ug. Fill with hot coffee . S t i r to blend . T o p with sweetened whipped cream . Ma kes 1 serving.

Rompope R u m Eggnog

Serve in liqueur glasses as an after-dinner drink or make Mousse de Rompope, page 1 82.

3 cups milk 1-1/2 cups sugar 6 egg yolks

1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract 6 oz. rum

Combine milk and sugar i n a large saucepan . Stir constan tly over medium heat until mi xture boils. Continue stirring until m ixture is reduced to 2- 1 /2 cups, abo u t 30 minutes. Remove fro m heat� cool. In a small bowl , beat egg yolks u ntil light a n d lemo n-colored. Beat i n to cooled milk m ixture. Return to heat. S tirring constantly , bring to boiling point. D o not boil. Remove from heat� stir i n vanilla. Cool abo u t 1 0 m inutes. Beat in ru m . Pou r into a I -quart jar. Cover and chill before serving or store in refrigerator. M akes abo u t 3 - 1 /3 cups.

How To Make Rompope Boil milk and sugar until slightly thickened.

Add egg yolks, vanilla and rum, then chi l l and serve.

Drinks

Sangria

Photo o n page 25.

Sa ngria

Mexico's wine cooler is the perfect beverage for spicy food and a hot climate.

1/3 cup Simple Syru p , page 21 1 fift h dry red wine, chilled 2 oz. brandy 1 lime, thinly sl iced 1 lemon , thinly s liced

1 orange, thinly sliced Juice of 1 orange 1 cup club soda , chilled Ice cubes

Prepare S imple Syrup. Combine wine, brandy, syrup, lime slices, lemon slices and orange slices and o range j uice in a large pitcher. Refrigerate no longer than 1 hour or peels will make drink taste bitter. To serve , stir in club soda and pour over ice cubes i n tall glasses or large wine glasses. Add a few o f the fruit sl ices to each glass. M akes 6 servings. Variations Sangria con Jugos (Ci trus Sangri a) : Stir 1 quart water and 1 cup sugar in a large pitcher u ntil sugar is d issolved. Add 1 6 ounces dry red wine, 1 cup orange j uice and 1 12 cup lime ju ice. R elrigerate 1 hour. Serve over ice i n tumblers or large wine glasses. M akes 8 to 1 0 servings. Sangria Preparada (Sangria Collins) : S tir 2 tablespoons lime j u ice, 1 ou nce gin and 5 teaspoons sugar i n a tall glass u n til sugar is dissolved. Stir i n 3 o unces club soda. Add 3 or 4 ice cubes. Tilt glass and carefu lly pour i n 2 ou nces dry red wine to form a separate layer on top. S erve with a straw. Stir before dri n k i ng. M akes 1 serving. Sangria de Jam aica (Jamaica Sangria) : Combine 1 12 cup Agua de Jamaica, below, 4 ou nces dry red wine and 1 /4 cup orange j uice in a tall glass. Add 3 or 4 ice cubes; stir. Makes 1 serving.

Agua de Jam aica Jamai ca F lower Water

You see big jars of this bright red drink, pronounced ha -MIKE-a, in Mexican marketplaces.

1/2 cup loosely packed dried red j am aica flowers 4 cups w ater

1/2 cup sugar 2 tablespoons lime j u ice

R inse jamaica flowers; drain. Place in a saucepan with 2 cu ps water. Bring to a boil . Remove from heat and let stand until cooled and flowers are no longer red , 1 to 2 hours. Strain liquid into a pitcher. Discard flowers. Add remaining 2 cu ps water. Stir in sugar until d issolved . Stir in lime j uice. Chill. Makes 4 servings.

17

Drinks

Agua de Tam a rindo Ta marind Water

Fruit of the tamarind tree has an acidic flavor which is refreshing in hot weather.

8 tamarind pods 1 qt. water

to 6 tablespoons sugar Ice cubes

5

Peel tamarind pods. Place peeled pods in a deep bowl� add water. Squeeze tamarind pods until water beco mes amber-colored and flavor is e xtracted . Strain into a pitcher� discard seeds. Stir in sugar to taste . Add ice cubes. Makes 4 servings.

L icuado de F resas Whipped Stra wberry Drin k

This is typical of the frothy fruit drinks sold at juice shops in Mexico.

1 0 medium strawberries , washed, h u l led 3/4 cup cold m i l k

2 tablespoons sugar

Combine strawberries, milk and sugar in blender. Process until strawberries are pureed and drink is frothy. Pour into a tall glass . M akes 1 serving. Variation Atole de Fresas (Strawberry Atole) : Stir 1 tablespoo n cornstarch into 1 14 cup cold water. Add to strawberry m i xture in blender. Process until frothy. Pour i n to a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook and stir until mixture comes to a boil and thickens. Serve hot. Makes 2 servings.

leJe7eJC§j(3)d!J(§)i21eJe:tsG2JeJ®®C2lG!le7eJC§)C31d!JeJi21eJe:tsG2JeJ®®i§) Ifyour supermarket doesn 't ha ve ingredients you needfor a recipe, ask the manager to place all order. If no one asks for a product, the store manager doesn 't kno w it 's in demand.

18

Drinks

Choco late Mexica no Mexican Chocolate

For the best fla vor, use the special chocolate produced in Mexico.

1 circul ar t ablet M exican spiced chocolate (3 oz.) or 3 oz. semisweet chocolate, 2 t ablespoons sugar, 1/2 teaspoon cinn amon and 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 cups m i l k

Place ch ocolate tablet or sem isweet chocolate with flavorings a n d m i l k in a saucepan . Bring to a boil. When chocolate has softened , beat mix ture with a molinillo or a rotary beater until blended and m ixture stops boiling. Bring to a boil again and beat well over heat . Bring to a boil a third time and beat over heat to produce as much foam as possible . Pour into cups and serve immed iately. Makes 4 servings.

Variation

Each circle of M e x ican chocolate is divided into 8 triangles. For an individual serving of choco­ late, melt 2 triangles with 3/4 cup milk and beat as directed.

How To Make Chocolate Mexicano Mexican chocolate comes in various sha pes. The wooden molinillo is used to beat the chocolate.

Roll the molinillo between your palms beating the milk and chocolate until frothy.

Drinks

Champurrado de M a rla Maria 's Cham purrado

Champurrado is similar to atole but it contains chocolate. See the variation below.

4 cups water 1 large cinnamon stick 1 cup instant masa 1-1/4 cups water 1/2 circular tablet Mex ican spiced chocol ate (1- 1/2 oz.) or 1-1/2 oz. semisweet chocol ate plus 1 tablespoon sugar, pi nch of cinn amon and 3 or 4 drops vanilla extract

1 cup fi rmly packed brown sugar 1 or 2 whole cloves 1 (1 3-oz.) can evaporated milk

Combine 4 cups water and cinnamon stick i n a large saucepan over m ediu m-high heat. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat. Cover and let stand 1 hour. Remove cinnamon stick. Gradually blend instant masa into 1 - 1 /4 cups water until smooth. S t rain masa through a sieve i n to cinnamon water. Add brown sugar, chocolate tablet or chocolate with flavori ngs , cloves and brown sugar . Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly. When m i xture has t hickened, add m il k. C ook a n d s t i r u n t i l hot. A dd water o r m il k for a t hin n er drink. M akes 6 to 8 servi ngs. Vari ations

To use fresh masa, omit 1 12 cup of the water added to instant masa. Blend fresh masa with 3/4 cup water until smooth. Proceed as di rected above. Atole de Francisco Morales {Francisco Morales' Atole} : Combine 6 cups water and 2 cinnamon sticks i n a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat and let stand until water is a cinnamon-brown color, about 1 hour. Remove cinnamon sticks. Stir 1 cup instant masa i n to 1 /2 cup water. Stir masa m i xture and sugar into cinnamon-water u ntil blended. Cook and stir over medium heat u ntil m ixture boils and thickens. Serve immediately. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Cafe de Olla Clay Pot Coffee

Spicy sweet coffee is traditionally served in a pottery mug.

6 cups water 1 /4 lb. piloncillo or 1 / 2 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar

2 cin n amon sticks 4 whole cloves 1/2 cup ground coffee

In a large saucepan over high heat, bring water , piloncillo or brown sugar, cinnamon sticks and cloves to a boil; lower heat. Cover and simmer 15 m inutes. Stir i n coffee. Return to a boil for 1 minute. Remov e from heat and let stand covered 1 minute. Strain and serve. Makes 6 servings. Variation Cafe al ln stante (In stant Coffee) : Omit coffee. Strain m ixture and keep hot or prepare in advance and reheat. Place 1 heapi ng teaspoon i nstant coffee in each coffee cup or mug. Stir in hot spiced water. 20

Dri nks

Agua de Limon Li meade

Fresh limeade is often served with Mexican meals.

3/4 cup lime j uice 1/2 cu p sugar

6 cups water Ice

Combine lime j uice and sugar in a large pitcher. Add water. Stir until sugar is dissolved . Serve with ice . Makes 6 servings.

Agua de N a ra nja Orangeade

Orange juice becomes more thirst-quenching when diluted with water.

2 cups orange j u i ce (7 to 10 oranges) 4- 1/2 cups water

About 1/2 cup sugar Ice

Combine o range j u ice and water in a large pi tcher. Stir i n sugar until dissolved, adjusting the amount according to the sweetness of the oranges. Serve with ice. Makes 6 servings.

SIMPLE SYRUP Here's a simple syrup you can use to sweeten drinks sllch as Sangria, page J 7.

Combine 1 cup sugar and 1 cup water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and coo k until the sugar is dissolved and the m i xture is clear. Pour the syrup into a container with a tight-fitting lid. Store it in the refrigerator up to 3 weeks.

21

Aperitivos y Botanas Appetizers A ppetizers in M exico are called entremeses, botanas, aperitivos or bocadillos. They may be as simple as roasted peanuts or salted squash seeds, called pepitas. So many roasted peanuts are con­ sumed i n M e x ico that great mounds o f them are heaped for sale in some markets. M i niature versions of M e xican snacks can be sensational appetizers. S erve Taquitos (Little Tacos) cut in half with Guacamole (Avocado Sauce) , page 40, as a dip. Or bring out a big platter of Tostaditas (Cocktail Tostadas). Corn chips, or totopos, are made by cutting corn tortillas into wedges and deep-frying them until crisp. The thinner the tortillas, the crisper the totopos. Serve them as scoops for guacamole and other dips. Or , top them with cheese and chiles and put them u nder the broiler to melt the cheese . Totopos can also be dipped i n to any of the

& Snacks

salsas o n pages 32 to 40. These are called Nachos (Cheese & Chile Corn Chips) . Jfcama, a crisp, sweet vegetable is refreshing on a hot day. Street vendors sell it with carved cucu m bers, mangos on sticks and other fruits and vegetables. When you buy them, the vendor sprin kles your purchase generously with lime ju ice and chili powder. If you want to avoid calo­ ries, use jIcama sticks or other crisp vegetables instead of corn chips as dippers with guacamole. Botana de Aguacate (Avocado A ppetizer) , page 5 6 , is a refreshing salad you can also serve as an appetizer. Ceviche de A lberto (Alberto's M arinated Fish) , page 1 2 5 , is a typical west coast appetizer of raw marinated fish. D o n ' t d ismiss ceviche u nt il you 've tried it . People who d on 't usually like fish go out o f their way t o eat in a restaurant serving ceviche.

M I DNIGHT S{lPPER Tostad itas (Cocktail Tostadas) H uevos Revueltos a la Mexicana (Mexican Scrambled Eggs) Molletes (Broiled Bean Sandwiches) Chocolate Mexicano (Mexican Chocolate)

22

page page page page

23 1 36 27 19

Appetizers & Snacks

Tosta d itas

Photo on page 25.

Cockta i l T ostadas

Use a 3-inch cookie cutter to cut small corn tortillas from larger ones, or make your own, page 74.

1 - 1 /2 cups Guacamole, page 40 Oil for frying 20 {3-inch} corn tort il las 1 /4 lb. chorizo 1/2 lb. ground beef 1 cup canned or homem ade refried beans , heated

2 large tom atoes , diced (3/4 lb.) Finely sh redded lettuce G rated Parmesan cheese Sliced pick led j al apeno chiles, if desi red

Prepare Guacamole; set aside. Pour oil 1 to 2 inches deep in a medium saucepan. Heat oil to 365°F ( 1 8 5 °C) . Fry tortillas i n hot oil u ntil crisp, turning once . Drain o n paper towels. If not using im mediately, store in an airtigh t container. Remove casing from chorizo. Fry in a large skillet until browned and cru mbly. Push to one side and add beef. Cook and stir until beef is browned and cru mbly. M i x meats in skillet. S pread each cooked tortilla with about 2 teaspoons refried beans, then about 1 tables poon meat m i xture. Add a few pieces of tomato, a layer of lettuce and a mound of guacamole. Sprinkle generously with cheese . Garnish with a jalapeno chile slice , if desired. Place a small piece of tomato i n center. Makes 20 appetizers.

Quesad illa s Cheese Turnovers

Fill these golden brown turnovers with cheese, meat or beans.

1 cu p instant masa 1 / 2 cu p all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1 /4 teaspoon salt 1 / 2 cup water 1 /4 cu p m i l k

8 oz. Monterey J ack cheese, fi nely shredded (2 cups) Canned chopped green ch iles or epazote to taste Oil for fryi ng

Combine i nstant masa, flour, baking powder and salt in a medium bowl . Blend in water. Add m i l k ; stir well. Knead to make a smooth dough . Line bottom of tortilla press with plastic wrap. Divide dough i n to quarters. Divide each quarter into 4 equal parts, making 1 6 equal pieces in all. Work with 1 piece of dough at a time, keeping remainder covered in bowl. Shape each piece of dough into a ball. Place on tortilla press. Place another piece o f plas tic wrap on top of dough . Press with the palm of your hand to flatten ball slightly. Close tortilla press firm ly and then open. Tor­ tilla should be about 4- 1 /2 inches in diameter. Remove plastic wrap from both sides of tortilla. If necessary , loosen tortilla with a spatula. Place tortillas on a flat su rface. Place a spoonful of cheese off-center on each tortilla. Press cheese down and top with chile or epazote to taste. Fold tortilla in half. Press edges together with your fi ngers. Turn edges and press to seal secu rely. Press edges with a fork or crimp to make a decorative edge . Keep uncooked qu esadillas covered with a cloth towel to prevent them from drying ou t . Pour oil about ) inch deep into a heavy skillet. Heat to 360°F ( 1 8 5 °C ) . Fry a few quesadillas at a time in hot oil un til browned on each side. Drain on paper towels. Serve hot. Makes 16 appetizers.

23

Appetizers & Snacks

Ch ile con Queso Chi le with Cheese

A terrific party dip for tortilla chips. Keep it hot in a chafing dish or other warmer.

2 1 2 4

tablespoon s vegetable oil cup chopped onions small garlic cloves, m inced fres h California chiles , roasted , peeled, chopped or 1 (4-oz . ) can chopped green chi les 1 to 2 j alapeno, ch iles or other small hot chiles, roasted, peeled , chopped

1 (8-oz.) can stewed tom atoes 8 oz. Monterey Jack cheese, shredded (2 cups) 8 oz. Longhorn cheese, shredded (2 cups) 1 cup dairy sour cream

Heat o i l in a large saucepan. Add onions and garlic. Cook until tender, but not browned. Add chiles and tomatoes, breaking up tomatoes with a spoon. Lower heat. Add cheeses and cook until melted. Stir i n sour crea m . Cook just until heated� d o not boil. Makes 4 cups of dip.

Botana de Frijol Bean Dip

This spicy bean dip was created by Flor Silvestre, one of Mexico 's leading singers.

1 cup dried pinto beans Hot w ater for soaking 1/2 cup chopped onion 1 l arge garlic clove, pressed 1 / 2 teaspoon ground cu m i n 1 - 1 /2 t ablespoons bacon drippings or lard

1 - 1 /2 tablespoons chi l i powder 1 /2 teaspoon salt 1 /4 cup butter, softened 2 oz . sharp C heddar cheese , shredded (1/2 cup) Dash hot pepper sauce, if desired

Cover beans with hot water and let soak overnight. The next day, drain and rinse beans. Cover with fresh hot water and bring to a boil. Add onion , garlic, cumin and bacon drippings or lard. Cover and sim mer 2 hours. Add chil i powder and 1 12 teaspoon salt. Cover and simmer 2 hours longer or until very tender. There should be only enough water left to keep beans from sticking. If too m uch water remains , u ncover and boil down. Add butter and cheese� stir until m elted . Turn into a blender or food processor and process until pureed . Taste and add salt as needed and hot pepper sauce , i f desired. If chili powder is spicy, hot pepper sauce will not be needed. Serve hot. If m ixture becom es too thick , add water 1 tablespoon at a time. Makes 3 cups of dip.

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A tray o f Mexican appetizers i ncludes Chile c o n Q ueso (Chile with Cheese) surrounded b y slices o f jicama a nd Totopos (Corn Chips) , page 3 0. Tostaditas (Cockta il Tostada s), page 23, a re on the right of the tray and Sangria, page 1 7 , is top left.

Appetizers £, Snacks

Bota na de Chile Chile Dip Salt and garlic can be mashed on a piece of wax paper instead of in a bo wl.

1 garlic clove 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 (I-Ib.) can peeled whole tom atoes 3 s lices bacon 2 medium onions, finely chopped 3 California chiles , roasted , peeled , chopped , or 6 tablespoons canned chopped green chi les

1 /2 teaspoon sugar Hot pepper sauce to t aste 4 oz. sharp Cheddar cheese, shredded (I cup)

In a small bowl , mash garlic and salt to a paste. Drain tomatoes, reserving liquid. Chop tomatoes. Slice bacon crosswise and brown i n a large skillet over medi u m heat . Add garlic paste and onions. Cook until onions are golde n. Add chopped tomatoes, reserved liquid, chiles and sugar. Stir over mediu m-low heat 1 5 m inutes. Add hot pepper sauce to taste . Turn into a heated I -quart casserole and top with cheese . M akes 2 cu ps of dip.

Bota na de Salmon Sa lmon Snack

Prepare these snacks ahead and serve them as a part of a cold buffet.

1 (I5-1 /2-oz .) can p i n k sal mon 6 pimiento-stuffed green olives, chopped 2 teaspoons capers 3 green onions, chopped 1 pickled jalapeno chile, chopped

1 /4 cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon whipping cream Fres h l y grou nd pepper Salt Crackers or toast rou nds Sliced stuffed olives, i f desi red

Drain and flake salmon. Place in a medium bowl. Add chopped olives, capers, on ions and chile . Blend mayonnaise and cream in a small bowl. Stir into salmon m i x ture. Season with pepper to taste. Refrigerate at least 2 hours to let flavors blend. Taste and add salt if needed. S erve on crackers or toast rounds. Garnish with stuffed olive slices, if desired. M akes 2 cups of spread .

26

Appetizers [, Snacks

Ca napes de Sardinas Sa rdi ne Ca napes

Sardines paired with jalapeno chiles make a snappy canape.

1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 / 4 medium onion, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, minced 1 {3-3/4-oz.} can sardines, drained 2 tablespoons dry white wine

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley 15 sal ted crackers 2 or 3 pickled j alapeno ch iles , s liced

Heat oil in a small sk iI1et. Add onion and garl ic. Cook until tender but not browned . Add sar­ dines, wine and parsley, stirring to break up sardines. Cook until heated th rough . Place teaspoon­ fuls of m i xture on salted crack ers. Top each canape with a slice of pickled jalapeno chile. Serve hot. Makes 1 5 smal1 canapes.

Botan a de Jicama Jicama Snack

A refreshing a nd low-calorie appetizer or snack.

1 small j icama Lime j u ice

Chili powder Salt

Peel jicama. Using a fluted cutter, cut in 1 /2-inch thick slices, then cut each slice into 1 I2-inch thick sticks. Se rve sticks plain or spri nk le with lime ju ice and chili powder, adding a little salt, if desired . Makes 2 to 3 servings.

Molletes Bro i l ed Bea n Sandwiches

These open-face bean sandwiches are very popular in Mexico.

6 l arge French roBs or Bol i l los, page 1 6 1 3/4 cup Salsa Fresca, page 33, Salsa Mexican a, page 33, or other salsa

About 3/4 cu p canned or homem ade refried beans 12 oz. Cheddar cheese, shredded {3 cu ps}

Prepare Bolillos and salsa, if used. For each sandwich , cut a roll or Bolillo i n half. Spread each half with refried beans. Top with 1 /4 cup cheese . Re peat with remaining rolls or Bolillos. Broil 4 to 5 inches from heat until cheese is me lted and bubbly. Serve topped with salsa. Makes 1 2 servings.

27

Appetizers & Snacks

Tostada de Queso Cheese Crisp

These tortilla-based snacks resemble hot open-face sandwiches.

1 {I2-inch} flour tortilla 4 oz. Monterey Jack or Cheddar Cheese , shredded (I cup)

2 tablespoons can ned or homem ade salsa

Preheat broiler. Place tortilla on a bak i ng sheet. S prinkle with cheese and dot with salsa . Broil until cheese is mel ted and bubbly. Serve at once. To serve , tear apart or cut i n wedges with scissors or a sharp k n i fe . Makes 4 servings. Variations

Brush tortillas with butter. Brown lightly u nder broiler , then top with cheese and broil to melt cheese. Top with salsa before serving. Top with chile strips and diced fresh tomatoes before broiling. Top with Carnitas a la Casera, page 1 1 5 , before broiling.

Tortas Mercado Central Centra l Market Sa ndwic hes

Shred your lefto ver Sunday roast to make the meat filling.

6 l arge French rol l s or Bol illos, page 1 6 1 1 - 1 / 2 t o 2 cups fi l li n g such as M achaca, page 88; Carnitas a l a Casera, page 1 1 5 ; Carne Des hebrada, page 109; Chile Verde a l a Fay, page 1 1 0 ; or Bistec P icado, page 1 05 Canned or homem ade salsa

H ot melted l ard About 3/4 cup canned or homemade refried beans, heated 1 - 1 /2 cu ps shredded lettuce 1 medium tom ato, chopped 1 /2 cup chopped onion Coarsely chopped fresh cil antro leaves 1 avocado, thinly s liced Dairy sour cream

Prepare Bolillos, if used, desired filling and salsa. Preheat a griddle to 3 2 5 °F ( l 65°C ) . For each san dwich , cu t a roll or Bolillo in half. Pull out a little of the soft center from each half; and discard. Dip cu t surfaces i n hot lard or brush with lard. Place cut sides down on preheated griddle and heat until cut sides are flecked with brow n . S pread cut side of bottom of roll with refried beans. Top with a generous spoonful of filling, draining meat if t here is too m uch sauce. Top meat with shredded lettuce, then add a little tomato , onion and cilantro . Add salsa to taste. Top with an avocado slice. Spread cu t side of top of roll with sour cream and place over filling to make a sand­ wich . Repeat with remain ing i ngredients. Se rve i m m ed iately. Makes 6 servings.

28

Appetizers & Snacks

Nachos Cheese & Chile Corn C h i ps

Use packaged tortilla or corn chips instead of Totopos if you don 't ha ve time to prepare your own.

Totopos , page 30 8 oz. M o nterey J ack or Cheddar cheese, shredded (2 cu ps)

1 /2 cup sliced fresh or can ned j al apeno chiles or hot ch ile salsa

Prepare Totopos. Preheat broiler. Top each totopo with a mound o f cheese and a chile slice or a little hot salsa. Place on a baking sheet and broil until cheese is just melted. Serve at once. Ma kes about 48 nachos.

Variations Nachos con Salsa (Cheese & Chile Corn Chips with Sauce) : Substitute Salsa Fresca , page 3 3 , for jalapeno chiles or h o t chile salsa. Top with a sprinkle of chopped green onions. Nachos con Frij oles (Cheese & C hi le Corn Chips with Beans) : Place a spoonful of canned or homemade refried beans on each totopo before adding cheese.

How To Make Nachos With a scissors or k nife cut the tortillas into 8 triangles, then deep-fry until crisp.

Top deep- fried torti lla tria ngles with yel low cheese and salsa. B roil and top with chopped green onion.

Appetizers & Snacks

Totopos

Photo o n page 25.

Corn Ch i ps

Use these as dippers for salsas and guacamole or to garnish Frijoles Refritos, page 1 4 9. 6 corn tortillas 2 teaspoons salt d issolved i n 1 /4 cup water

Oil for deep-frying

Using k itchen scissors or a sharp k nife , cut tortillas into eight triangles. Brush tortilla triangles on each side with salt water m i xture . Tortillas may be cut in advance and let stand uncovered 3 hours or overnight to dry out slightly. The salt water wash may be omitted, i f desired . Pour oil 2 to 3 i nches deep in a medium saucepan. Heat oil to 3 6 5 °F ( I 8 5 °C) over medium-h igh heat. Add tortilla chips a handful at a time and fry u ntil l ightly browned and crisp. D rain o n paper towels. Store i n an airtight container. Makes 48 corn chips.

Queso Fundido Melted Cheese

Melt cheese in a pottery casserole, then fold it in a tortilla with salsa.

About 1 /4 cup Salsa Fresca, page 33, or other tom ato salsa Abou t 1 /4 cup Salsa Verde, page 36

6 corn tortillas cut in half 6 oz. Monterey J ack cheese, thinly sl iced

Prepare salsas� set aside. Preheat oven to 400°F (205°C) . Wrap tortilla halves in foil. Place cheese in a medium pottery casserole or other baking dish . D o not use a small casserole or cheese layer will be too thick. Bake 8 to 1 0 m i nutes, until cheese is melted and bubbly. Bake wrapped tortillas with cheese 5 to 7 m i n u tes u ntil heated through . Pou r salsas into se parate small bowls. Serve immed iately. S poon cheese from casserole onto a tortilla half. Tear tortilla half into 2 pieces, if desired . Add about 1 tablespoon of each salsa� fold and eat. Makes 4 appetizer servings.

30

Appetizers f, Snacks

E m panadas de Picadillo Meat Turnovers

Make these tender meat pies in advance and reheat them for 5 to J 0 minutes at 3 75 °F (J 90 °C).

1 - 1 /2 cups P icadillo, page 1 08 2 cu ps all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons s ugar 1 /2 teaspoon salt 2/3 cup shorten ing

2 tablespoons butter About 1 /4 cu p ice water 1 egg, separated 1 teaspoon water 2 teaspoons milk

Prepare Picad illo� set aside. Mix flour, sugar and salt i n a medium bowl. Cut in shorte ning and butter with a pastry blender or 2 kn ives until mixture is thoroughly m ixed with some pea-sized crumbs. Gradually add enough ice water to form a dough that will hold together. Preheat oven to 3 7 5 ° F ( l 90°C) . Lightly grease 2 baking sheets. Lightly beat egg white with I teaspoon water i n a small bowl. Beat egg yolk with m il k in another small bowl� set aside. On a lightly floured surface , roll out dough to slightly less than 1 /8 inch th ick . Cut in circles with a 3- to 3 - 1 /2-inch cutter. Gather scraps together. Roll out and cut into more circles until all dough is used . Place a rounded teaspoonful of Picad illo on each pastry circle. Brush edges with egg white mixture. Fold circles in half and press edges with a fork to seal. Place on bak ing sheets. When all empanadas are pre­ pared, brush with egg yolk mix ture. Bake abo ut 20 m i n u tes or until browned . Place immed iately on a rack to cool slightly. Serve warm . Makes about 26 empanadas. Variation Empanadas D ulces (Sweet Turnovers) : Cut pastry dough into 4- to 5 - inch circles. Fill with jam or preserves, guava paste, m incemeat or canned pumpkin pie filling. I f desired, sprinkle empanadas with gran ul ated sugar before baking.

Bota na de F rutas Fru i t Cup

Spice this fruit cocktai/ to your taste at the table.

2 cups watermelon pieces 2 cups can taloupe p ieces 1 or 2 l i mes, cu t in wedges

2 tablespoons crushed dried chiles or chi l i powder Salt

Arrange watermelon and cantalo upe pieces on a platter or in a large bowl . Serve lime wedges and crushed dried chiles or chili powder in se parate bowls . Ta ke fruit as desired . Squeeze lime j u ice over fr uit� sprinkle with dried chiles or chili powder and salt to taste. Makes 6 servings.

31

Salsas Sa uces

Most salsas, or sauces, in this section are to be spooned over meats, tacos, eggs and beans , spic­ ing them to individual taste. They may also be served as a dip with totopos, or corn chips. Salsa para Enchiladas ( Enchilada Sauce) and Salsa de Chile en Polvo ( Chile Powder Sauce) are poured over enchiladas before baking. Cebollas Yucatecas (Onions Yucatan-Style) are a relish-like topping addi ng just the right touch to Panuchos Merida (Panuchos Merida-Style) , page 1 00 , and m eat d ishes. Cilantro is an herb often used in Mexican cook­ ing. It's the same as fresh coriander or Chinese parsley and is also common in C h inese and Southeast Asian dishes. D ri ed cilantro is some­ times available and may be substituted for fresh. When i t is used as a garnish, you m us t have fresh sprigs or substitute fresh parsley , preferably the flat-leaf variety. Salsas made with tomatoes are red and are called salsas rojas. Salsas verdes, or green sauces, acquire their color and distinctive acid flavor from green tomatillos. This little tomato-like vegetable, also called miltomate and tomate de cascara, is covered with a parchment-like husk and contains many tiny seeds. Fresh tomatillos are available i n some places b u t i t m ay b e easier to find them can­ ned. One 1 3-ounce can equals abou t 3/4 pound of

fresh tomatillos. Salsas and guacamoles are traditionally ground i n a molcajete, a bowl-shaped, rough stone mortar with a fat , tapered grinding stone. The broad end of the stone is used for grinding. Molcajetes grind easi ly and rapidly and give a chu n ky texture rather than the foamy puree made by a blender. If yo u bring home a molcajete from Mex ico , be sure to grin d some u ncooked rice i n it fi rst to smooth off loose b i ts of stone. Otherwise your first salsa will be gritty ! To grind salsa i n your blender, turn it rapidly o n and off several times j ust to chop the i ngre­ dients. D o n ' t pu ree the m . A n exception to this is American-style taco sauce, which is finely ground so i t can be poured easily rather than spooned fro m a bowl. Many salsas i mprove in flavor after they stand for a few hours. Guacamole is an exception. I t may turn black i n half an hour. Various m ethods are supposed to prevent blackening, i ncluding adding lime j u ice to the m i x ture, mashing the avocado with a plastic fork, placing the avocado pit i n the m i x t ure, and spread i ng a thin film o f oil or mayon naise o ver the surface of the guacamole. The o n ly reliable way I have fou nd to keep guacamole fresh and green i s to make i t just before serving.

L ATE -NIGHT SNAC K Queso Fundido (Melted Cheese) Tortillas de Malz (Corn Tortillas) Salsa Mexicana (Mexican Sauce) Salsa Fresca (Fresh Sauce) Salsa Verde (Green Sauce) Chocolate Mexicano (Mexican Chocolate)

32

page page page page page page

30 74 33 33 36 19

Sauces

Salsa Mexicana

Photo on page 35.

Mexican Sauce

This basic sauce goes with many Mexican dishes.

2 sm all tomatoes, peeled, chopped (t/2 lb.) 1 serrano chile, or other small hot chile, seeded , chopped

1 /4 cup cilantro leaves, chopped 1 /3 cup chopped onion 1 /4 teaspoon salt

In a medium bowl, combine tomatoes , chile, cilantro , onion and salt. Serve at room temperature. Makes 1 - 1 /4 cups.

Variation

Omit cilantro leaves and add a dash o f lime ju ice.

Salsa F resca Fresh Sauce

Tomatoes will peel easily if immersed in boiling water for 30 seconds, then dipped in cold water.

4 s mall tomatoes , peeled, chopped (t lb.) 1 /2 cup finely chopped onion 1 j al apeno chile, seeded , finely chopped 2 teaspoons olive oil

1 teaspoon v inegar 1 teaspoon l ime j uice 1 / 2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crushed 1 / 2 teaspoon salt

In a medium bowl, combine tomatoes, onion and chile. Add olive oil, vinegar, lime ju ice , oregano and salt . M ix well. Let sauce stand 2 hours to blend flavors. Serve at room temperature. Makes 2 cu ps.

Salsa de Chile y Jitom ate C h i le & Tomato Sauce

Excellent fla vor and not too hot.

4 small tom atoes, peeled, fi nely chopped ( t lb.) 2 Cali forni a chiles, peeled, finely chopped, or 1 /3 cup canned chopped green chiles

1/2 j alapeno chile, minced 1/2 mediu m onion, fi nely chopped 1 /4 cup cilantro leaves, chopped 1 large garlic clove 1/2 teaspoon salt

Combine tomatoes , chiles , onion and cilantro i n a medium bowl. Mash garl ic with salt to make a paste. Stir garlic paste i n to tomato m ixture . Let sauce stand 2 hours to blend flavors. Serve at room temperature. Makes about 2- 1 /2 cups. 33

Sauces

Salsa Favorita Favorite Sa uce

Phil Villa, who raises chiles ill California, says this is his fa vorite salsa.

6 gliero chiles or other sm all hot chiles 1 l arge or 2 small green peppers 5 med ium-l arge tomatoes, peeled (1 - 1 /2 lbs . >

1 / 2 small o n i o n , finely grated 1 /2 garlic clove, pressed 1/2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, cru s hed 1 /4 to 1 /2 teaspoon salt

D ice u npeeled chiles , green pepper and tomatoes into 1 I4-inch pieces. D rain tomatoes. Combine diced chiles, green pepper and tomatoes with onion, garlic, oregano and salt . Cover and refriger­ ate o vernight before serving. Makes about 4 cups.

P ico de Gallo Rooster's Beak

This fresh vegetable salsa from Veracruz enhances meats.

2 small tomatoes, diced (1/2 lb.) 1 sm all onion, chopped 2/3 cu p diced cucu mber 6 small radishes, d iced 1 /2 cup loosely packed cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped

3 or 4 serrano chiles or other small hot chiles, seeded, finely chopped Juice of 1 / 2 small l i me S alt

Mix tomatoes, onion , cucu m ber, radishes, cilantro and chiles. Squeeze lime juice over vegeta­ bles. Add salt to taste� stir. S erve i m mediately or refrigerate. Makes about 2 - 1 14 cups.

Salsa P ica nte H o t Sauce

Make this sauce with pickled chiles - as many as you can take!

2 small tomatoes , peeled (1/2 lb.) 1 /4 cup chopped onion 1 garli c clove 1 /2 to 1 canned pick led j al apeno chile 1 teaspoon vegetable oil

•

34

1/2 teaspoon l i qu i d from canned p ickled j al apeno chiles 1 /4 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, cru s hed 1 /4 teaspoon salt

Combine tomatoes, onion, garlic and chile i n blender or food processor. Blend u ntil pureed. Heat oil i n a small saucepan . Add tomato m ixture, chile liqu id, oregano and salt . Bring to a boil. Cook gently 10 minutes. Rem ove from heat. Let sauce stand 2 hours. Makes abou t 3 /4 cup. Garnish a n d flavor Mexican food with colorful sauces. Sa lsa Mexicana (Mexican Sauce ) , page 33, is at the top. S alsa Verde (Green Sauce), page 36, is on the left. Salsa Favorita (Favorite Sa uce) is on the right.

Sauces

Salsa Verde

P hoto on page 35.

G reen Sauce

Tomatillos give special fla vor to this make-ahead sauce.

2 or 4 j alapeno chiles or other small hot chiles , roasted , peeled 1 lb. fres h tomatillos or 1 -3 /4 cups can ned tomatillos

5 ci lantro sprigs 1 garlic clove Salt

Remove stems from chiles; do not remo ve seeds. Set chiles aside. Remove papery husks from tomatillos. I f u s i n g fresh tomatillos, place i n a m e d iu m saucepan . Add c old water to cover. Bring to a boil; drain. If using canned tomatillos, drain . Place chiles, tomatillos, cilantro sprigs and garlic in blender or food processor. Blend until fi nely ground. Turn into a m ed iu m bowl. Cover and refrigerate overnigh t . Before serving, add salt to taste. Makes 2 cups.

Salsa P icante de Carmen Carmen's Hot Sauce

For a milder salsa, use 1 or 2 chiles.

4 small tom atoes, peeled (1 lb.) 1 onion, coarsely chopped 1 garlic clove

4 j a l apeno chiles , peeled , seeded 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1/2 teaspoon salt

Cut tomatoes i n half and cu t out stems. Place i n blender or food processor with onion and garlic. Blend just u ntil tomatoes are chopped but not pureed. Add chiles. Blend a few seconds or u ntil chopped . Heat oil in a medium sauce pan . Add chile m ix ture and salt. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. S i m mer uncovered 10 m in u tes. Cool and serve at room temperatu re . Makes 2 cups.

Salsa de los M achos Extra -Hot C h i le Sauce

Grind the chiles with a mortar and pestle or molcajete. Serve the sauce with Carne A sada, page 1 06. 9 j alapeno chi les or other small hot chiles (about 1 /4 lb.) 1 garlic clove

1 /4 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon lime j uice

Roast chiles on an ungreased griddle over medium heat u ntil blistered on all sides. C u t off stems but do not peel. Grind chiles with garlic and salt in a mortar or molcajete. Add lime j uice and con­ tinue grinding until pu lverized. Makes abo u t 1 14 cup blazingly hot salsa .

36

Sauces

Salsa para E nchiladas Enchi lada Sauce

If dried chiles aren 't a vailable, try Salsa de Chile en Polvo, page 3 9.

8 dried Californi a chiles Water 1 - 1 /2 tablespoons lard or vegetable oil 1 garlic clove 1 tablespoon all-purpose flou r

1 teaspoon vinegar 3/4 teaspoon salt 1 /4 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, cru s hed 1 /4 teaspoon grou nd cu m i n 1 /8 teaspoon garlic powder

Wash ch iles thoro ughly. Place in a large saucepan and cover generously with water. Cover and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and let stand. 45 m i n utes or until softened . Drain chiles, reserving soaking liquid. Pull off stems, slit chiles open and rinse off seeds. Place ch iles and 1 cup soaki n g liquid i n blender o r food processor. Process until pureed . Turn i n to a sieve and rub through sieve i n to bowl to eliminate small bits of peel. R i nse blender with an add i tional 1 cup soaki n g liquid and pour over re mai ning pulp in sieve. Heat lard or oil and garlic in a medi um saucepa n . When lard or oil is fragrant with garlic, discard garlic clove. Stir in flour u n til mix ture is smooth. Cook about 1 m i nute. Add pu reed chile mixt ure and remain ing ingred ients. Bring to a boi l � red uce h eat. Cook and stir until slightly th ickened . Taste and add more salt if n eeded . Makes about 2 - 1 / 3 cups.

Variations

For a hotter sauce, substitute 2 or 3 dried New Mexico ch iles for 2 or 3 of the California chiles. Substitute 1 /2 to 1 cup broth for an equal amount of chile soaking liqu i d . Substitute 1 1 2 cup tomato j u ice or tomato sauce for 1 12 cu p of the soaking liqu id.

rcaJ®eJE?J(3)eJ'eJC21eJeJi.§Ji2JeJ®®@§1®eJ(§}(3)eJ'J®i2JeJ®®i2J When you ha ve leftover salsas, be sllre to store them in the refrigerator. Most sauces improve ill flavor after 24 hOllrs.

37

Sauces

Salsa de Chile GUero G Uero Chile Sauce If you do not ha ve a molcajete, use your blender to grind the ingredients.

2 gtiero chiles or other small hot chiles Boil ing water 1 large garlic clove 1 /4 teaspoon salt 2 small tomatoes , peeled , cored (1/2 lb.)

1 /2 cup canned tom ato sauce 1 / 2 cup w ater 1/2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, cru s hed

Boil chiles i n water to cover 1 5 m i n u tes . D rain and cool slightly. Remove peel. D iscard peel and stems but retain seeds . Place garlic and salt in molcaje te and grind u ntil pureed . Add chiles; grind . A d d tomatoes o n e at a t i m e , grinding after each add ition. If molcajete becomes t o o full, scrape contents into a bowl and set aside until all ingredients are ground, then m i x well. Stir tomato sauce and 1 12 cu p water into ground m i xture. Stir in oregano. Let sauce stand 2 hours to blend flavors. Makes 1 - 1 12 cups.

How To Make Salsa de Chile GUero Peel cooked gUero ch iles. Carefully remove stems but not seeds.

G ri nd chiles and tomatoes with garlic and salt in a mo/caje te or blender.

Sauces

Salsa de J itom ate de Elva Elva 's Tomato Sauce

The perfect sauce for those who don 'f like hot chile.

1 (l5-oz . ) can tomato s auce 1 / 2 cu p water 1/2 small onion

3/4 teaspoon garl ic salt 1/2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crushed

Pour tomato sauce into a medium saucepan . Pour water into tomato sauce can to d issolve all bits of sauce. Pour water i nto blender or food processor. Add onion; blend until pureed. Add to tomato sauce. S tir in garlic salt and oregano. Bring to a boil; reduce heat . Simmer gently 1 5 m i n utes. Makes 2 cups.

Salsa de Chile en Polvo Chili Powder Sauce An easy and mild enchilada sa uce.

3 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 / 4 cup m i ld , or California red ch i l i powder 2 cups beef broth 2 (lO-I /2-oz .) cans tom ato puree

1 / 2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, cru shed 1 /4 teaspoon grou nd cu m i n 1 /4 teaspoon garlic powder Salt

H eat oil i n a large saucepan. Stir in flour and cook 1 m i nute. Stir in chili powder. Add beef broth , tom ato pu ree , oregan o, cum i n and garlic powder. Taste and add salt if needed. Simmer 1 5 m inutes. Makes about 4-2/3 cu ps of sauce, enough for 1 2 enchiladas .

Cebollas Yucatecas Onions Yucata n- Style

Pickled red onions garnish meats and other dishes in Yucatan.

1 med i u m , red onion Boiling water 2 tablespoons white vi negar 1 s m al l garli c clove, crushed

1/8 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crushed 4 peppercorns 1/8 teaspoon salt

Peel onion. Cut i n half through stem end, then slice thinly. Place in a small saucepan. Po ur bo il­ ing water over onions and im mediately turn into a colander to drain. Return drained onion slices to saucepan . Add vinegar, garl ic, oregano, pepperco rns and salt. Bring to a boil. I m med iately turn into a serv ing bowl and let stand un til cooled , stirring occasionally. Makes about 1 - 1 12 cups.

39

Sauces

Guaca m ole Avocado Sauce

Deliciolls as a dip or as a garnish for other dishes.

2 medium avocados 1 small tomato, chopped 2 t ablespoons m inced onion

1 teaspoon lime or lemon j u ice 1 / 2 teaspoon garli c powder 1/2 teaspoon salt

Peel avocados. Mash with a fork in a medium bowl. Stir in tomato , onion, lime or lemon j u ice, garlic powder and salt. S erve at once. Makes 6 servings.

Variations

Substitute 1 small garlic clove for garlic powder. Mash garlic with salt to make a paste, then stir i n to avocado m i xture. Gu acamole de Mar la Elen a (M aria E lena's Avocado S auce) : Stir together 2 peeled mashed avocados, 1 peeled fine ly chopped tomato, 1 seeded m inced serrano chile or other small hot chile and 1 12 teaspoon salt. Makes about 2 cups. Gu acamole a l a Veracru zana (Avocado Sauce Veracruz-Style) : Beat together 2 peeled mashed avocados, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 2 teaspoons lime j u ice and 1 /2 teaspoon salt. Stir i n 2 table­ spoons m inced onion and 1 teaspoon m inced j alapeno chile or other small hot chile. Makes about 2 cups. Guacamole del Conquistador (Conqu istador Hotel ' s Avocado S auce) : Stir together 2 peeled mashed avocados, 2 chopped small tomatoes, 4 m inced small green onions, 2 seeded m inced ser­ rano chiles or other small hot chiles, 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves, 1 12 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Makes 2 to 3 cups. Gu acamole con Tom atil los (Avocado S auce with Tomatillos) : Simmer 6 h usked tomatillos i n l ­ inch deep water for 1 0 m in u tes. Drain , cool and finely chop. I f using can n ed tomatillos, drain and fi nely chop . Combine fi nely chopped tomatillos, 2 peeled mashed large avocados, 2 garlic cloves mashed with 1 12 teaspoon salt, 1 14 cup fi nely chopped onion, 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves, 1 14 to 1 1 2 m inced small jalapeno chile or other small hot chile and freshly grou nd pepper to taste. Makes about 3 cups.

rG!JeJeJC§1C2JeJC§1i21eJeJeJi2JeJ®ceJ@JC3JeJ'eJ§JC2JeJeJi21eJeJeJi2JeJ®ceJi§) Chile po wder or Chili powder: The Spanish word is chile (CHEE-Iay). In English-speaking countries, chili (CHILL -ee) is the most common usage.

40

"" Sopa s Soups M e x ico is justly famous for its soups. They are rich in variety and flavor - a delight to weary tra­ velers in need of a restorative. Two types of soups are responsible for some c o n fu s i o n among M e x i co ' s v i s i t o r s : Sopas aguadas are wet soups, the type covered i n these recipes. Sopas secas are dry soups m ade with rice, pasta or tortillas. Sopa Seca de A rroz ( Dry Rice Soup) is on page 1 43 . R estaurant menus do not always make this distinct io n , m uch to the chagrin of the tourist who asks for a bowl of soothing rice soup and receives a plate of dry rice. H earty s o u p s l i k e Cocido (Vegetable- Beef Soup) , Pozole Blanco (White Hom iny Soup) and Menudo (Tripe Soup) are m eals i n themselves with BoWlos (French Rolls) , page 1 6 1 , or tortillas and a salad o n the side. Cocido is a soup-stew loaded with vegetables, m eat and always sporting a chunk or two of corn-on-the-cob. Pozole can b e red with chile or clear, as i n Pozole Blanco (Golden Hominy Soup) , a recipe from G uadalajara. T h i s simply seasoned pork, chicken and h o mi n y soup is topped with a bright array of garnishes to give considerable dash and fresh flavor. Menudo (Tripe Soup) is famous as a hangover remedy. And it really works, says V ivian Flores, who keeps her restaurant in East Los A ngeles

open after hours o n weekends to d ispe nse gallons of this nourishing soup. I ts effectiveness is cre­ dited to i ts h igh protein content. Caldo de Queso (Cheese S oup) is an e x traordin­ ary soup flavored with tomatoes and chiles. Gazpacho a la Guadalajara (Cold Soup Guadala­ jara-Style) is a n ovel version o f gazpacho i nclud­ ing both corn and avocado. One Mexican sou p theme with many variations is shredded chicken in broth. Add lime juice and tortilla croutons and you have Sopa de Lima (Lime & Tortilla Soup) . Add vermicelli to make Sopa de Polio y Fideos (Ch icken & Vermicelli Soup) . Put i n herbs and vegetables such as cilantro, green onions, avocado and green chile for Caldo Xochitl (Xochitl Chicken Soup) . Xochitl is a girl's name and an Indian word for flower. Caldo Tlalpeno (Chicken Soup fro m Tlalpan) has many varia­ tions. My version is fro m Tij uana o n the Mexico­ California border. It contains garbanzo beans, rice and the smoke-flavored chipotle chile. Chop­ ped fresh jalapeno chiles can be served o n t he side if the chipotle chile does n ' t su pply enough heat ! Caldo Largo de Veracruz ( Fish Soup Veracruz­ Style) also contains chile. However, most Mex­ ican soups are m ildly seasoned and easy on the palate. You season them to taste with hot salsa from the table and a squeeze of lime juice.

C INCO D E M AYO P A R TY Caldo de Albondigas (Meatball Soup) Mole Poblano (Mole Puebla-Style) Arroz a la Mexicana (Rice Mexican-Style) Ensalada de Ejotes (Green Bean Salad) Pie de L imon (Lime Pie)

page page page page page

43 1 16 1 40 57 1 78

41

Soups

Cocido Vegetable- Beef Sou p

Ifyou can 'f find cilantro sprigs

fa

garnish this colorful dish, lise parsley sprigs.

3 lbs . beef chuck neck bones 9 cu ps water Salt Arroz Rojo, page 142 1 l arge potato, peeled , cut i n I - inch cubes 1 l arge carrot , cut in I /2-inch p ieces 2 ears corn, cu t in 8 pieces

2 zucchi n i , cu t in thick s li ces 1 large celery stalk, cu t in half lengthwise, then i n 2-inch length s C hopped on ion C i l antro sprigs Lime wedges Can ned or homem ade salsa

Place beef bones i n a large pot or D u tch oven. Add water and salt to taste. Bring to a boil. S kim foam fro m su rface. Cover loosely and simmer 2 to 2- 1 /2 hours or u ntil m eat is very tender. Let meat cool in broth . Prepare Arroz R ojo; set aside. Remove m eat from bones and cut in large chunks; d iscard bones. Strain broth through a fine sieve . Return meat and broth to pot. Bring to a boil ; reduce heat . Add potato and carrot. Cover and simmer abou t 2 5 m i n utes. Add corn and zucch i n i . Cover and simmer 1 5 m in utes. Add celery. Cover and con t inue to simmer 5 to 1 0 minutes or u ntil celery is tender. Taste and add salt if n eeded. To serve , ladle broth , meat and some of each vegetable into large soup bowls. Top each serving with a generous spoonfu l of Arroz R ojo, 1 or 2 tablespoons chopped on ion and 2 or 3 cilan tro sprigs. Serve with lime wedges and salsa. Makes 8 servings.

How To Make Cocido Remove corn husks. Cut each corn cob into quarters.

Mound A rroz Rojo in center of soup and top with onions and a cilantro sprig.

Soups

Ca ldo de Albondigas Meatba l l Sou p

A popular dish at A ntonio 's Restaurant in Los A ngeles.

1 lb. extra-lean grou nd beef 2 eggs, beaten 1 / 2 canned pim iento, chopped 1/3 cup loosel y packed cilantro leaves, chopped 2 garl ic cloves , m i nced 1 /2 teaspoon ground cu m i n 1 /2 teaspoon salt

Dash pepper 2 qt s . beef brot h 1 medium onion, chopped 2 medium carrots, d iced 2 medi u m zucch i n i , diced 1 /3 head cabbage, s l iced Salt

Mix beef, eggs , p i m iento, cilantro, garlic, cu m i n , salt and pepper in a large bowl. M i x ture will be very soft. Form i n to balls about 1 i nch i n diameter . Heat b roth in a large pot or Du tch oven until boiling. Lower m eatballs gently into broth a few at a time. Bri ng to a bo il again . Skim foam from surface . Add onion, carrots and zucch i n i . Bring to a boil; reduce heat. S immer uncovered 25 min utes. Add cabbage . Cook 5 m i nutes longer or until all vegetables are tender. Taste and add salt if n eeded . Makes 8 servings.

Cal d o de Queso C heese Soup

A prize recipe from Ernesto Navarro of EI Nuevo Mexico Cafe in Los A ngeles.

2 1 4 1 4

t ablespoons veget able oil onion, finely chopped green onions, fi nely chopped garl ic clove, minced medium tom atoes peeled, chopped (1 - 1 /4 Ibs.) 6 peeled fres h Californ i a chiles or canned chiles, cut i n thin strips 1 /2 cup loosely packed cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped

1 cu p water 1 teaspoon salt Pepper to taste 1 qt . milk 8 oz. Monterey J ack cheese, shredded (2 cups) 4 oz. Longhorn cheese, shredded (1 cup) 1 /4 lb. bu tter

Heat oil i n a large saucepan. Add onion, green o n i o ns and garlic. Cook until tender but not browned. Add tomatoes. Cook gen tly abo u t 1 5 m i nu tes. Stir in chile str ips and cilantro. Add water, salt and pepper to taste. Keep warm . In ano the r large saucepan , combine milk, Monterey Jack and Longhorn cheeses and butter. Stir over medium heat just until cheeses and butter are melted. Add tomato m i xture. Stir over medium heat just until mixture comes to boiling point. Do not boil or cheese may cu rdle. Serve at once. Makes 8 servings.

43

...) Soups

Sopa de Tortilla Mazatlan

Tort i l l a Soup Mazatlan-StyJe

Crumbled toasted chiles add distinctive fla vor to this soup.

2 lbs . meaty beef soup bones 1 qt. water 6 peppercorns 1 bay leaf 1 /4 sm all onion 1 /2 teaspoon salt 2 dried pasilla chiles 4 corn torti l l as Oil for frying

1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 sm all onion, cut i n h alf lengthwise, thinly sliced 1 garlic clove, m inced 2 tom atoes, peeled, finely chopped ( 1 /2 lb.) Freshly grou n d pepper S alt 1 /4 cu p finely d iced celery 1 /4 cup finely d iced carrot

Place bones in a large pot or D utch oven . Add water, peppercorns, bay leaf, 114 o n ion and 1 12 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil. S k i m foam fro m surface . Cover and simm er 2 hours, skimming again i f n ecessary . Strain broth and let cool. Spoon off fat . Toast pasilla chiles i n an u ngreased medium s killet o ver medium h eat 3 o r 4 m i n utes, turning frequently. Do not sco rch . Let cool . Break i n half and remove seeds. Cru mble chiles and place in a s mall dish. Cut tortillas in 2 " x 1 12 " strips. P o u r oi l for frying l -inch' deep i n t o a small saucepan . H eat to 3 6 5 ° F ( I 8 5 °C) . F r y tortilla strips i n hot oil u ntil l ightly browned and crisp. D rain o n paper towels. H eat 1 tablespoon vegeta­ ble oil in a large saucepan. Add sliced onion and garlic. Cook slowly u ntil o nion is very tender but not browned. S t ir i n tomatoes and pepper to taste. Cook slowly 10 t o 1 5 m in utes. Add reserved strained broth and salt to taste. S im mer gently 1 5 m i n utes. Add celery and carrot. Simmer 1 5 m inutes longer. To serve , place a handful o f fried tortilla strips i n each bowl; add soup. Top with crum bled chiles as desired. Makes 4 servings.

Caldo Tlalpeno Chicken Sou p from T l a J pa n

If you like the smoky fla vor of the chipotle chile, float a whole chile i n each bowl.

1 whole chicken breast or 2 half chicken breasts 6 cups water or chicken broth 1 /4 mediu m onion 1 bay leaf 1 garlic clove Salt

8 peppercorn s 2 dried or canned chi potle chiles Water 1 (8-3/4-oz . ) can garbanzo beans, drained 1 /3 cup uncooked long-grai n r ice 4 l arge green onions, chopped

Place chicken breast in a large saucepan. Add water or broth , 1 14 medium onion, bay leaf, garlic, salt to taste and peppercorns. Bring to a boil; reduce heat . Cover and simmer 45 m in u tes. If using dried chipotle chiles, place in a small saucepan . Add water to cover and bring to a boil. Remove from heat . Let stand until softened , 45 m i nutes to 1 hour. D rain and slice . If using canned chipo­ tIe chiles, drain and slice . Remove chicken fro m broth; shred , discarding skin and bones. Strain brot h ; return strained broth to saucepan . Add shredded chicken; bring to a boil. Add garbanzo beans and rice. Cover and simmer 20 m i nutes or u ntil rice is tender. Place a few chile slices in each soup bowl , add soup and sprinkle with green onions. M akes 6 servings. 44

Soups

Sopa de L i m a

Photo on pa ges 1 2 2 a n d 1 2 3 .

Li me & Tortilla Soup

A famous soup of Yucatan. This version is ji·om the Casa del Balam in Merida.

2 corn tortillas Oil for frying 2 teaspoons vegetable oil 1 /3 cup chopped onion 1 Cal i fornia chi le, roasted, peeled , chopped, or 1 / 4 cup canned chopped green chi les

4 cups chicken broth 1 cup s hredded cooked chicken Salt 1 tomato, chopped 1 tablespoon l i me juice 4 l arge l i me slices

Cut tortillas in 2 " x I / 2 " strips. Pour oil for frying 1 12 i nch deep into a small saucepan or skillet. Heat t o 3 6 5 °F (I 8 5 °C) . Fry tortilla strips i n hot oil until browned and crisp. D rain on paper towels. H eat 2 teaspoons vegetable oil i n a large saucepan . Add onion and chile. Saute until onion is tender but not browned. Add broth, chicken and salt to taste. Cover and simmer 20 min u tes. Add tomato; simmer 5 m i nutes longer. Stir i n lime juice . Taste and add more lime j u ice if desired. To serve, ladle soup i n to bowls and add some fried tortilla strips. Float a lime slice i n the center of each serving. Makes 4 servings.

Sopa de PolIo y F ideo

Chicken & Ve r m ice lli Soup

Ifyou ha ve an 8-ounce package of vermicelli, use abollt 1/8 of it for this recipe.

1 l arge chicken breast 6 cups water 1/4 small onion 1 garli c clove Salt 8 peppercorn s 1/2 small onion, t h i n l y sliced

2 teaspoons vegetable oil 1 l arge tomato, peeled, seeded , chopped 2 Californi a chiles, roasted , peeled , seeded, chopped, or 1 /3 cup canned chopped chi les 6 ci l antro sprigs or parsley sprigs 1 oz. verm icel l i

Place chicken breast in a large saucepan . Add water, 1 14 onion, garlic, salt to taste a n d pepper­ corns . Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Cover and simmer 45 minutes. Let cool slightly. Remove chicken . S hred chicken m eat discarding skin and bones. Strain broth ; return chicken to broth. Cook sliced o nion in oil i n a small skillet until tender but not browned. Add to soup. Bring to a boil. Add tomato, chiles, cilantro sprigs or parsley sprigs and verm icelli. Cook 1 5 m i n utes. Taste and add salt if n eeded. M akes 6 servings.

45

Soups

Pozole Bla nco Golden H o m i ny Soup

Pozole isn 't complete until you garnish it lavishly.

1 lb. boneless lean pork 6 ch icken thighs 1 /2 medium onion 2 garlic cloves 2 teaspoon s salt Garnishes: Salsa Fresca, page 33, Salsa Mexicana, page 33 or or other salsa 1 /2 medium onion, chopped 6 to 8 radi shes , sliced

12 peppercorn s 6 cu ps water Garni shes, see below 1 {I-lb . , 1 3-oz . } can golden hom i n y

1 / 2 head lettuce, sh redded 1 avocado, sliced 2 tablespoon s dried leaf oregano, cru shed 6 small limes, hal ved

Cut pork in I -inch cubes and place in a large saucepan . Place chicken thighs in another large saucepan . C u t onion half into 2 pieces . In each saucepan , place 1 piece of onion, 1 garlic clove, 1 teaspoon salt, 6 peppercorns and 3 cups water. Bring each to a boil. S kim foam fro m surface. Cover pork and simmer 1 hour. Cover chicken and sim mer 45 m in utes. Prepare salsa and vegeta­ bles for Garnishes. Remove cooked pork and chicken fro m broths with a slotted spoon and place in a large pot o r D utch oven. S train broths and add to meat. D rain and rinse hominy and add to meat. Bring to a boil; reduce h eat. Cover and simmer 30 minutes. Taste pozole and add m ore salt if needed. Serve pozole in large soup bowls. Add garn ishes to soup as desired. M akes 6 servings. G arn i shes : A rrange salsa, onion, radishes, lettuce , avocado, oregano and limes in separate bowls.

Caldo Xochill Xochitl Chicken Soup

Chile slices make the soup quite hot and can be omitted.

4 cups strong chicken broth 1 - 1 /2 cu ps s hredded cooked chicken Salt 1 small avocado, peeled , s liced

12 to 16 cilantro sprigs 1 serrano chile or other small hot chile, thinly s liced, i f desired 3 green onions, chopped

Combine broth and chicken in a large saucepan . S eason with salt to taste and bring to a boil. In each of 4 broad shallow soup bowls, place one-fourth of the avocado slices, 3 or 4 cilantro sprigs and a few chile slices, if desired. Add hot broth and chicke n . Sprinkle each serving with chopped green onion. Makes 4 servings.

46

Pozole Bla nco (Golden Hominy Soup)

Soups

Gazpacho a la Guadalaj a ra Cold Soup G uada lajara-Style

Be sure the tomatoes you use are ripe and juicy.

2 l arge ears corn or 2 cups frozen w hole-kernel corn, thawed Boiling salted water 2 medium cucumbers 2 avocados , peeled . cut i n smal l p ieces

5 medium tom atoes, seeded , finely chopped 0 - 1/2 Ibs.} 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly grou nd pepper Can ned or homem ade hot chile salsa

Cook ears of corn o r thawed frozen corn i n boiling salted water 5 m in u tes; drain. If using fresh cor n , slice kernels fro m cobs. Scrape cobs with a sharp spoon ; discard cobs. Place corn in a tureen or serving bowl. Peel cucumbers. C u t i n half lengthwise and scrape o u t seeds. Cut cucu mbers i nto small pieces. Add cucum ber pieces , avocado pieces and tomato to corn. Add salt and pepper; mix well. Taste and add more season i ng i f needed. Add chile salsa to taste or serve salsa separate­ ly in a small bowl. Refrigerate 1 hour. Serve cold. Makes 1 0 to 1 2 servings.

Sopa d e E l ote y Chayote Corn & Squash Soup

Chayote is rare in many areas. You might substitute zucchini or pattypan squash.

Salsa Mexicana, page 33, or other hot salsa 2 l arge ears corn or 2 cups frozen w hole-kernel corn , t hawed 2 tablespoon s butter 1 l arge celery stalk, chopped 1 garlic clove m inced

2 large green onions, white part only, chopped 1 /4 to 1 /3 cup diced carrot 3 cups chicken broth S al t 1 cu p cubed cooked chayote

Prepare salsa; set aside. If using fresh corn, cut kernels fro m cobs , then scrape cobs with a sharp spoon . D iscard cobs. H eat butter in a large saucepan . Add cor n , celery , garlic and onions. Saute 1 0 m i n utes. Add carrot, broth and salt to taste. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Cover and simmer gently 4 5 m i n u tes. Add chayote. Cook until heated thro ugh . Serve i n soup bowls. Serve salsa separately. M akes 6 servings.

48

Soups

Sopa de Col iflor y Cha mpinones Cau l i flower & Mush room Soup

Make a different cauliflower soup by adding chile.

2 cups cauliflowerets Boiling salted water 3 tablespoon s butter 1 slice onion, minced 1 cup sliced mush room s 2 tablespoon s all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon wh ite pepper 2 beef bouillon cubes 3 cu ps milk Can ned chipotle ch i les , sliced , if desired

Wash and drain caulitlowerets. Slice larger flowerets. Cook in boiling salted wate r 8 minutes o r u ntil barely tender. Drai n . M elt butter in a large saucepan . A d d o n i o n a n d m ushroo ms. Cook u ntil onion is tender but not browned. Stir in tlour� cook 1 mi nute. Add salt, white pepper, bouillon cubes and milk. Cook and stir until hot and slightly th ickened . Add caulitlowerets. Cook u ntil heated through . To serve , spoon into individual soup bowls. Float a slice of chipotle chile on top o f each serving if desired. Serve at once . If soup is allowed to stand and becomes too thick , thin with a little m i lk or broth . Makes 4 servings.

Crema de Ca la bacitas Crea m o f Zucc h i n i Soup

This creamy, pale green soup is especially good served cold.

4 medi u m zucch i n i ( 1 lb.) 2 cups water Salt 2 tablespoons cilantro leaves or parsley leaves 2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons fi nely chopped onion 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 1 (I 3-oz.) can evaporated milk 1 cup ch icken broth Cilantro leaves or parsley leaves for garn ish

Wash zucch i n i . Cut off stem ends, then cut in large pieces. Place in a large saucepan . Add wate r and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil. Cover and cook until tend er, about 20 minu tes. Cool zucch ini in cooking liquid. Place zucchi n i , 1 cup cooking liqu id and 2 tablespoons cilantro o r parsley in blender� process u ntil pu reed . Heat butter in a medium saucepan . Add onion. Cook until tender but not browned. Stir in tlour. Cook and stir 1 m inute. Add pu reed zucch ini mix ture , evaporated milk and chicken broth. Stir to blend . Season with salt if needed. Stir over medium heat until soup comes to a boil. Serve at once or chill and serve cold . Garnish each serving with a few whole cilantro leaves or parsley leaves. Makes 6 servings.

49

Soups

Crema de Cham pinones Crea m o f Mushroo m Soup

Clean mushrooms by immersing them briefly in cold water then parting d,y in a cloth to wel.

1 lb. mushrooms (2 to 3 cups) Water 4 cups m i l k

2 tablespoons butter 1/2 small onion, finely chopped 1 teaspoon salt

Clean mushrooms and cut off ends of stems. Pour water 1 14 i nch deep in a medium saucepan. Add mushrooms. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Cover and simmer until tender , 7 to 10 minutes. D rai n , discarding coo king liquid. Place half the cooked m ushrooms in blender with 2 cups milk. Blend until pureed . Slice or chop remaining mushrooms. Melt butter i n a medium saucepan . Add onion. Cook until tender but not browned . Add pu reed m ushroom mixture, sliced or cho pped mushrooms, re maining 2 cups milk and salt. Bring to a boil. Cover and simmer 20 m in utes. M akes 6 servings.

Sopa de Frijol Maya Mayan Bean Soup

Serve this simple soup from Yucat(m with fried tortilla strips as croutons.

1 cup dried black beans H ot water for soaking 5 cups hot water 1 /4 medium onion 1 garlic clove 1/2 teaspoon salt

1 /2 medium onion, chopped 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 2 sm all tomatoes , peeled , chopped (1/2 Ib.) 1 /2 teaspoon salt

Place beans i n a large saucepan . Pour ho t water for soaking over beans to cover ge nerously. Let beans soak overnight. D rain and rinse beans. Add 5 cups hot water, 1 14 onion, and garlic. Bring to a boil. Cover and simmer 2 hours. Add 112 teaspoon salt. Simmer 2 hours longer o r until very tender. Cool beans in their liquid, then puree a cu p at a time with liquid in blender. Press through a sieve to remove skins. Return to large saucepan . In a medium saucepan , cook chopped onion in oil u n til tender but not browned. A dd tomatoes. Cook u ntil softened. Puree tomato m ixture i n blender or food processor . A d d to beans w i t h 1 12 teaspoon salt . Sim mer 1 5 minutes longer. Soup should not be too thick . If necessary, thin with a little water . Makes 6 servings.

50

Soups

Sopa de Elote Corn S o u p

Ground corn adds to the creamy appearance of this delicious soup.

3 sm all ears corn or 1 - 1 /2 cups frozen whole-kernel corn , thawed 1 garlic clove 1 /2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon butter 1 sm all onion, chopped 3 small tom atoes, peel ed, chopped (3/4 I b J

1 q t . beef broth 1 /2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crushed 1 /4 cup whipping cream Cilantro leaves or parsley leaves

If using fresh corn, cut kernels from cobs. Scrape cobs with a sharp spoon; d iscard cobs. Measure corn . You should have about 1 - 1 /2 cups. Reserve excess corn for another use. Puree 3/4 cu p corn i n blender or food processor; set aside. Mash garlic with salt to make a paste . Melt butter in a large saucepa n . Add on ion and garlic paste . Cook until onion is tender but not browned . Add tomatoes. Cook slowly 1 0 minutes, mashing tomatoes with a spoon. Add broth , oregano , pureed corn and whole corn kernels. Taste and add salt if needed. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Cover and simmer 3 0 m inutes. Stir in cream . Cook until heated through . To serve, pour into soup bowls and garn ish with cilantro or parsley. M akes 6 servings. Variat io n

Add 1 chopped , peeled, roasted California c hil e or 2 tablespoons canned cho pped green ch iles to the soup with the broth.

How To Make Sopa de Elote After cutting corn from cob, scrape cob with a spoon to remove milky residue.

Stir cream into cooked soup base. H eat without boiling until hot.

Soups

Potaje de Ha bas Fava Bea n So up

Fa va beans are also called broad beans.

1 - 1 /2 cups dried fava beans (8 oz,) 5-1/2 cups water 1/2 onion, cut in 2 pieces 2 garlic cloves 1 tom ato 1/4 medium onion 2 s lices t hick sliced bacon or 3 slices regular bacon , diced

1 Spanish-style chorizo l i n k , thinly s liced 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon salt 1 spearm int or m int sprig, if des ired

Wash beans and place in a large sau cepan . Add water and bring to a boil. Add onion pieces and garlic. Cover and simmer until beans are tender, about I hour. Remove onion from beans; dis­ card . Puree beans i n blender, adding enough cooking liquid to blend smoothly. Press through a sieve to remove skins. Return to saucepan . Roast tomato and 1 14 medium on ion on an ungreased griddle until tomato is blistered all over and o nion is flecked with brown . Puree roasted tomato and onion in blender. In a medium ski llet , brown bacon and chorizo in olive oil. Add pureed tomato m i x ture. Cook 2 to 3 minutes. Add bacon mi xture, salt and spearmint or mint i f desired to bean s. Bring to a boil and simmer unco vered until thickened as desi red , 30 to 45 m i nutes. Taste and add more salt if needed. Makes 6 servings.

Sopa de Aguacate Avocado Soup

An elegant first cOllrse for a dinner party.

1 large avocado, peeled, cut in half 1/2 cu p w h ipping cream 1/2 cup m i l k 1 cup chicken broth 1 teaspoon l i me j u ice

1 /2 teaspoon Maggi seasoning Dash white pepper Salt D airy sour cream Chopped fres h chives

Place avocado in blender or food processor. Add whi pping cream , milk , broth, lime ju ice, M aggi seasoning, white pepper and salt to taste. Blend until smooth. Chill. Serve i n small bowls. Top with a spoonful of sour cream . Sprinkle with chi ves. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

52

Soups

Menudo Tripe Soup

It 's traditional to recover from a night on the to wn with a bracing bowl of menudo.

2-1 /2 lbs. tripe 1 /2 calf' s foot 1 /3 cup vinegar Cold water 2 garlic cloves 1/2 small onion About 3 qts . water Salt

1 - 1/2 cu ps hominy Red Chile Puree, see below , or 1 cup can ned red chile sauce Fi nely chopped green onions Chopped cilantro l eaves Lemon wedges Corn tort i l l as, heated

Red Chile Puree: 8 Cali fornia chiles ( 1 /4 lb,) 2/3 cup water

Scrape off any fat from tripe. Cut tripe into I - inch squares. Place tripe and calfs foot in a large bowl . Add vi n egar and cold water to cover generously. Let stand 3 hours. Drain. Rinse tripe and calfs foo t thoroughly. Place i n a large pot. Add garlic and onion. Pour i n water to cover ingre­ dients plus 1 to 1 - 1 /2 i nches, about 3 quarts. Add salt to taste. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Cover and simmer abou t 6 hours or until tripe is tender. After 1 hour, skim foam from surface of soup. Skim again as n eeded . Add m o re water i f liquid evaporates. Prepare Red Chile Puree. Add hominy and Red Chile Puree during last hour of cooking. Ladle into large bowls. Serve chopped green onions, cilan tro, lemon wedges and hot corn tortillas separately. Makes 10 to 1 5 servi ngs . Red Chile Pu ree : Remove stems from chiles. Break chiles open and rinse out seeds. Place in a saucepan with water to cover. Bring to a boil. Continue to boil until ch iles are softened, about 5 m i n u tes. Drai n ; dis­ card water. Place chiles i n blender; puree. Add enough water to make puree the consistency of tom ato sauce. Press pu reed chi les through a sieve to remove bits of pee l. Makes about 1 cup. Variat ion

Substitute 1 - 1 / 2 cups nix tarnal (cooked dried corn ) for can ned hominy. Combine with soaked tripe and calfs foo t , garlic, onion and wate r. Cook as directed above .

53

Soups

Ca ldo Largo de Veracruz Fish Soup Verac ruz- Style

fl epa::ote is lIot a vailable, top each servinR with a sprig of cilantro or parsley. 1 5 1 4 1 3

fish head or 1 /2 lb. fish scraps cups water teaspooon salt small tom atoes (I IbJ small onion garlic cloves, un peel ed

1 dried small hot chile 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 or 2 epazote sprigs 1 - 1 /2 Ibs. red snapper or other wh ite fish fil lets

Wash fish head or scraps. Place in a large pot or D u tch oven . Add water and salt . Bring to a boil; reduce heat. S immer uncovered 30 m i nutes. R emove fish head or scraps ; d iscard . Strain broth and return to pot. Heat a large heavy skillet over medium heat. Place tomatoes, onion, garlic cloves and chile i n skillet. Toast lightly. If chile begins to burn, remove fro m skillet. Remove gar­ lic cloves as soon as pee l starts to brown. Toast tomatoes and onion until scorched on all sides. Peel toasted garlic and scorched tomatoes. Combine with scorched onion and toasted chile in blender or food processor; puree . H eat olive oil i n sk illet. Add tom ato pu ree. Cook 5 m inutes over medium heat. Add cooked tomato puree and epazote to fish broth. R inse fish fi llets. Cut into chunks. Bring fish broth m i xture to a boil. Add fish. Bring to a boil again ; reduce heat. Sim­ mer u ncovered ] 0 minutes. Taste and add more salt if needed . Serve soup i n large bowls. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Sopa de Nuez de Nogal Walnut Sou p

Soaking the walnuts in hot water helps loosen any thick, tough skins.

1 cup walnuts Boil ing water 1/2 medium onion, coarsely chopped 3 cu ps ch icken broth 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 - 1 /2 cu ps h alf-and-half 1 bay leaf 1 /8 teaspoon white pepper Salt Parsley leaves or chopped fresh chives

Cover walnuts with bo iling water and let stand 5 m in utes; d rain . Pull off any dark loose skins. Combine drained walnuts , on ion and ] cu p broth in blender or food processor; puree. Melt but­ ter in a large saucepan . Stir i n flou r . Cook and stir 1 m inute. Stir i n half-and-half. Add bay leaf. Cook and stir u ntil mixture comes to a boil and th ickens. Add walnut mi xture and remaining chicken broth. Add white pepper and salt to taste. Stir frequently over medium heat until so up is slightly thickened , 30 to 45 minutes. Remove bay leaf. Serve hot or chilled , garn ished with parsley or ch ives. Makes 4 to 6 servi ngs .

54

Ensaladas y Verduras Salads

& Vegetables

Mexican markets fairly bloom with produce that makes you long for a salad bowl . But salads and cooked vegetables are likely to be piled on top of or around your main course - not in a salad bowl . The sauteed fish fillets I had in Yucatan came sprinkled with peas, topped with potatoes and garnished with lime halves, a tomato slice , a long slice of cooked carrot, another of crisp cucumber and a lettuce leaf. Even a taco boasts a salad in the form of lettuce , onions and tomatoes stuffed inside. More formal salads do exist. Fo r the spectacu ­ lar Ensalada de Nochebuena (Christmas Eve Salad) , beets , lettuce and an assortment of fruits and nuts are arranged on a platter. The i ngre­ dients may be tossed with cooking liquid from the beets to make them a deep pink. Sometimes pomegranate seeds or little colored candies called colaciones are sprinkled over the salad . Mexican salads are not always served with d ressing. There may be a lime cut i n half on the side so you can squeeze lime juice to taste over your salad. M e x ican corn is tougher and chewier than corn in some other parts of the world . I f corn is one of your favorite vegetables , be sure to try Tarnal de

Elote en Cazuela (Green Corn Tamale Casserole) i n this section and SoujJle de Elote (Corn Souffle) , page 1 3 6 . Although c or n is basic to Mexico's cuisine, tomatoes , onion and garlic are just as important , for t hey a r e sauteed a s a begi nning to many dishes. You may see Indian women i n Oaxacan markets weari ng garlic wreaths on their heads ! Squash is also popular. Varieties include pear­ shaped chayotes with a delicate but distinctive flavor. They are available in some areas ou tside Mexico . I f you can ' t locate chayote, substitute scalloped pattypan squash. Several recipes for chiles reI/enos, or stuffed chiles, appear in this section . Chiles can be stuffed with meat and potatoes, with tuna or shrimp salad , with vegetables , beans or cheese , or with Picadillo (Minced Meat) , page 1 08 . Large dried chiles may be soaked until they' re softened , then stuffed with a typical filling. Stuffed chiles may be batter-coated and fried or served plain. If fresh chiles are not available, use cann ed whole green chiles o r bell peppers. However, bell peppers must be boi led o r steamed until they are tender so they will have a text ure similar to a roasted chile.

PAT I O BAR B E C U E Carne Asada (Grilled Steak) page 1 06 page 6 2 Tarnal de Elote en Cazuela (Green Corn Tamale Casserole) page 1 49 Frijoles al Horno (Baked Beans) page 6 1 Ensalada Tropical (Tropical Salad) Ensalada d e Papas con Chile Poblano (Potato Salad with Poblano Sauce) page 6 5 Sang ria (Sangria) page 1 7 Agua de Na ranja (Orangeade) page 2 1 Volteado de Piiia (Pineapple Upside-Down Cake) page 1 8 1

55

Salads & Vegetables

En salada de Aguacate Uxmal Uxmal Avocado Sa lad

A hotel near the ruins of Uxmal ill Yucatan serves this salad.

2 tablespoons wh i te vinegar 2 teaspoons prepared mu st ard 1 /4 teaspoon salt

1 /2 cup olive oil 3 small avocados Lettuce leaves

Combine vinegar, mustard and salt in a small bowl. S lowly beat in olive oil with a whisk until dressing is blended and thickened. D o not peel avocad os. lust before serving, cut avocados in half and remove pits. Place an avocado half on a lettuce leaf on each salad plate. Fi ll cen ters with dressing. M akes 6 servings.

Ensalada Mixta Uxmal

Photo o n pages 1 22 a n d 1 23 .

U x m a l Mixed Sa lad

Mounds of brightly colored vegetables are linked with an a vocado slice.

3 tablespoons wh ite v inegar 1 tablespoon prepared mustard 1/4 teaspoon salt, heaping 3/4 cup olive oi l

Lettuce leaves 2 medium carrots , peeled, grated ! (l-Ib.) can j u l ienned beets , drained 1 small avocado, sliced

Combine vinegar, m ustard and salt in a mediu m bowl. Gradually beat in olive oil with a whisk until d ressing is blended and thickened. Line 6 salad plates with lettuce leaves. Place a mound of carrots on lettuce . Place a m o u nd of beets beside carrot mound. Place an avocado slice across the top. Serve dressi ng separately to be spooned over salad as desired. Makes 6 servings.

Botana de Aguacate Avocado Snack

An a vocado cocktail with unusual fla vor.

1 /2 cup diced, seeded, peeled cucumber 2 green onions with tops, chopped 1 tablespoon chopped fresh pars ley 1 tomato, chopped, drained 1 medium avocado, peeled, diced

2 teaspoons Maggi seasoning 2 teaspoons ol ive oil 1 teaspoon cider v inegar 1 teaspoon lime j u ice Lettuce leaves

Com bine cucumber, green onions and parsley in a medium bowl� chill. Place tomato i n a small bowl � chill. lust before serving, add tomato and avocado to cucum ber m ixture. Combine Maggi seasoning, olive oil , vinegar and lime juice in a small bowl. M i x well and pour over salad . Toss gently. Line stemmed glasses or small dishes with a portion o f lettuce leaf. S poo n salad into let­ tuce leaf. Serve as a first cou rse . Makes 4 servings.

56

Sa lads [,. Vegetables

Ensalada Guanajuato Five- Bean Sa lad G ua najuato - Style

A ccording to the cooks in the colonial town of GlIanajuato. the more kinds of beans. the better.

1 cup drai ned or canned cooked pinto beans 1 cup drai ned cooked black beans 1 (8-3/4-oz.) can garbanzo beans, drained 1 (8-oz.) can cut green beans, drai ned 1 cup drai ned canned wax beans 1 /2 green pepper, cut in thin strips 1/4 red onion , thinly sliced

6 tablespoons vegetable oil 3 tablespoons vinegar 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 /4 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, cru shed 1/8 teaspoon garl ic powder Freshly grou nd black pepper 1 tomato, chopped, drai ned 3 tablespoons mayonnaise

If cooking your own pinto and black beans, cook until firm -tender and not mushy. Combine pin­ to beans, black beans, garbanzo beans, green beans and wax beans i n a large bowl. Add green pepper and red onion. In a small bowl, mix o i l , vi negar, sal t , oregano , garlic powder and black pepper to taste. Pou r over salad and toss ge ntly but thoroughly . Cover and refrigerate overnight . J ust before serving, add tomato and mayonnaise. Toss until blended . Makes 6 to 8 servings.

E n salada de Ej otes G reen Bean Salad

If you ha ve fresh oregano. use it to give this salad a special touch.

1 lb. fres h green beans Boiling s alted water 1/3 cu p olive oil 2 tablespoons white w i ne vinegar

Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 cup water 1/2 medium red onion, thinly sl iced 1/2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, cru shed

Wash green beans and snap off tips. Cut beans in thin diagonal slices. Cook sl iced beans in quart o r m ore boiling salted water 8 to 10 m i nutes, until tende r. Turn into a si eve . R i nse well with cold water. D rain tho roughly. Beat olive oil and vinegar together i n a small bowl . Po ur over beans. Add salt and pe pper to taste� toss. Bring 2 cu ps water to a boil in a small saucepan . Drop in onion . Stir� d rain i m m ediately. A rrange onion sl ices over beans. Sprin kle oregano ove r salad . Chill. M akes 4 to 6 servi ngs .

57

Salads [. Vegetables

Ensalada de Nochebuena Christmas Eve Sa lad

A spectacular combination offruits and nuts topped with ruby pomegranate seeds.

4 small beets Water 2 tablespoons sugar 1 /4 lb. j icama or 1 addi t ional red apple 1 orange 2 to 3 tablespoons l ime j u ice or lemon j u ice 1 red apple

2 small bananas 6 l arge romaine lettuce leaves, fi nely shredded 3 tablespoons roasted unsalted peanuts 2 tablespoons pine nuts 1/4 cu p pomegran ate seeds 2 tablespoons sugar 1 /4 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons white vinegar

Cut off beet tops, leaving about 1 i nch of stems. Do not remove root. Scrub beets and place in a small saucepan. Add water to cover and 2 tablespoons sugar. Bring to a boil� red uce heat. Cover and simmer 45 minutes o r until beets are tende r. Drain and ri nse with cold water. Rub off skins u nder cold running water. Refrigerate beets until serving time. Before serving, peel jicama and cut i n thin small wedges. I f using apple , leave u n peeled. Peel orange and cut i n thin slices. Cut each slice i n half. Place lime j u ice or lemon ju ice i n a small bowl . Cut unpeeled apple into t hi n wedges . Di p each wedge in j u ice to prevent discoloratio n . Peel banana a n d cut into thin slices. Dip into j uice. Cut cooked and peeled beets into thin slices. L i ne a broad shallow salad bowl with shredded romaine lettuce . Arrange j icama, orange , beet, apple and banana slices in alternating circles or o ther pattern o n lettuce. Sprin kle with peanuts and pine n uts. Top with pomegranate seeds. In a small bowl ; ble nd 2 tablespoons sugar, salt and vinegar until sugar is dissolved. Drizzle over salad just before serving. Makes 6 servings. Variation

R eserve cooking l iquid from beets. Cu t j icama, apple, orange , bananas and beets into small chunks. Combine with n uts and pomegranate seeds. Add dressing and enough beet liquid to col­ or mixture a bright pink. Toss gen tly and arrange on romaine leaves. Serve i m mediately.

Gelatin a de Sangrita Sa ng rita Salad Mo ld

A spicy Mexican version of tomato aspic.

2 cups Sangrita de Tomate, page 1 4 1 (6-oz.) p k g . lemon flavored gel atin 2 cu ps boiling water

Mayon n aise Lime slices

Prepare Sangrita de Tomate. M i x gelatin and boiling water in a medium bowl. Refrigerate until gelatin starts to set , then stir i n Sangrita Tomate. Turn into a 5 or 6-cu p mold. Refrigerate until firm. To unmold, dip bottom of mold in warm water abou t 1 0 seconds. Invert mold onto a plat­ ter. Remove mold . Garnish salad with mayonnaise and lime slices. Makes 8 servings.

58

Ensalada de Nochebuena (Christmas Eve Salad)

Salads [;. Vegetables

Ensalada de Col iflor Ca u l i flower Sa lad

Colors of the Mexican flag appear ill this pretty salad from Zihuatanejo.

1 medium cau liflower (about 1 - 1 /2 lbs.) Boi ling salted water 1 /3 cup veget able oil Whi te vi negar

1/2 teas poon salt 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley 1 tablespoon chopped can ned pimiento 2 tablespoons finely diced hard-cooked egg white

Separate cauliflower i nto cauliflowerets. Wash and drain . Generously cover with boiling salted water. Cook until crisp-tender, 6 to 7 minutes longer. D rain and rinse with cold water. Drain well. Pour 1 /3 cup oil i nto a measuring cup. Add enough vinegar to measure 1 /2 cu p. Add salt, parsley, pimiento and egg white . Stir dressing well. Pour over cau liflowerets� toss to mix. Chill. Toss again before serving. M akes 4 servings.

Ensalada de Berenjenas Egg plant Sa lad

A different salad with Middle East origins.

1 ( 1 - lb.) eggplant 1 garlic clove 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons fi nely d iced , peeled , roasted California chile or canned chopped green chiles 1/2 cup fi nely diced green pepper

1 tables poon chopped fresh parsley 2 tom atoes , peeled , chopped (1/2 lb.) 2 tablespoons l i me juice 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Freshly ground black pepper Salt Lettuce leaves

Preheat oven to 450°F (230°C) . Pierce eggplant several times with a fork. Bake eggplan t in an 8 i nch square baking dis h 30 m inu tes; coo l . P e e l an d c hop very fine. Mash garlic wit h salt to m a k e a paste . Combine garlic pas te , chile , green pepper, parsley and tomatoes i n a medium bowl. Add chopped eggplan t . Toss to m i x . Add lime ju ice, oil, black pe pper to taste and additional salt , if needed . Toss to m ix . Cover and refrigerate several hours. Serve o n lettuce . M akes 4 servings.

Aderezo de H ierbas Herb D ressi ng

This salad dressing is deliciolls on most tossed salads.

1/2 cup vegetable oil 2 tablespoons cider vi negar 1 tablespoon l i me j u ice 1 /2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crushed

1 sm all pi ece bay leaf, crumbled 1 /4 teaspoon minced garlic 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 /8 teaspoon fres hly ground pepper

Combine all ingredients in a jar with a tight- fitting lid. Cover and shake thoroughly. Let stand several h ours or overnight to blend flavors. Shake well before using. M akes about 2/3 cu p. 60

Salads f, Vegetables

E nsalada Tropical Tropica l Sa l ad

Street vendors in Mexico sell fruits and vegetables seasoned this way.

1 /2 lb. j icama 2 cups t h i n l y sliced fresh pineapple 1 medium cucu mber

2 tablespoons l i me j u ice 1 /4 teaspoon salt 3/4 teaspoon chi l i powder

Peel jicama and cut into thin slices . Peel cucu mbe r and slice crosswise in thin circles. On a large platter, arrange cucumber, j icama and pineapple slices in ci rcles . Drizzle lime ju ice over sa lad . Sprinkle with salt and chili powder . M akes 8 servings.

Ensalada de Frutas Fru i t Sa lad

A health-food restaurant in Merida serves this breakfast-ifl-a-dish.

1 1 1 1 1

sma)) papaya, peeled , seeded red apple, u n peeled or 2 bananas sma)) pi neapple, peel ed, cored cup coarsely diced fresh coconut

2 cups plain yogurt 1 - 1 /2 cu ps granola 1 /2 cup chopped wal nuts 6 to 8 tablespoons honey

Cu t papaya, apple and banana in bite-size pieces. Cut pineapple in wedges. For each serving, place som e of the papaya, apple , banana, pineapple and coconut in layers on a platter. Po ur yogurt over fruit. Top with a generous layer of granola. Sprinkle with nuts. Drizzle with honey. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Cal a ba c itas con Crema Zucc h i n i w i t h Cream

Cream gives a rich fla vor to this vegetable casserole.

8 medium zucchi n i (2 Ibs .) Boi ling sal ted water 4 oz. Monterey Jack cheese, shredded (t cup)

3/4 cu p whipping cream 1 /4 cup fi ne dry breadcrumbs Salt 2 tablespoons butter

Cook zucch ini in boiling salted water until crisp- tender, about 1 0 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water. Preheat oven to 3 5 0°F (1 75 °C) . Buttcr an 8-inch square baking dish . Cut zucch ini in diagonal slices. Laye r half the sl ices in buttered baking dish. Top with half of the cheese , half of the cream , and half of the breadcru mbs. S prinkle with salt to taste. Laye r remai ning zu cch ini slices. Top with remaining ch eese , cream , breadcru mbs and salt to taste. Dot with buttc r. Bake uncovered 3 0 m i n u tes o r until cheese is me lted and begi ns to brown. Ma kes 6 servi ngs.

61

Sa lads [, Vegetables

Ca labacitas con Elote Zucch i n i W i t h Corn

Combining squash and com is popular in Mexican cooking.

3 large ears corn or 3 cups thawed frozen whole- kernel corn 6 medium zucchi n i ( 1 - 1 / 2 Ibs.) 2 poblano or California chiles, roasted , peeled, or 2 can ned whole green chiles

3 small tomatoes, peeled (3/4 I b . ) 1/4 medium onion 1 - 1 /2 tablespoons butter 1 /4 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crus hed 3/4 teas poon salt Pepper

If using fresh corn , slice kernels off cobs, then scrape cobs with a sharp spoo n . Discard cobs. Cut zucchini i n to 1 1 2- to 3/4-inch cubes. Cut chiles into short thin strips. Puree tomatoes with onion in blender or food processor. Melt butter i n a large saucepan or D u tch oven. Add corn kernels and zucch ini cubes. Cook over medium-low heat u n til zucch ini is crisp-ten der , about 3 minutes. Add chile strips, tomato m ixture, oregano , salt and pepper to taste; stir. Cover and cook over medium heat 5 to 1 0 min utes un til zucch ini is tender. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Variation

For a spicy flavor, substitute 2 pick led jalapeno chiles, sliced , for the peeled or canned chiles.

Tarnal de E l ote en Cazuela G reen Corn Tamale Casserole

Green com means fresh corn, but you can use frozen kernels

1 (4-oz . ) ca n whole green chiles 3 cups fresh corn kernels or frozen whole-kernel corn 1 /3 cu p yel low corn meal 2 tablespoons butter, mel ted

/00.

2 teaspoons sugar 1/2 to 1 teaspoon salt 4 oz. Cheddar cheese, shredded (I cup) 1 (I-lbJ can stewed tomatoes 1 / 2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, cru shed

Preheat oven to 3 5 0°F ( l 7 5°C ) . Butter a I -quart baking dish; set aside . R inse chiles and cut i n wide strips. Combi ne corn kernels, cornmeal, butter, sugar a n d salt in blender or food processor. Grind u ntil corn is fi ne. If using a blender, yo u may have to grind 1 /4 to 1 12 cup at a time. Layer half the corn mix ture i n bu ttered baking dish. Top even ly with all the chile strips. Cover with cheese. Top with remai ning corn mi xture. Cover with foil; bake I hour. Heat stewed tomatoes and oregano in a small saucepan. Serve as a sauce with the casserole . M akes 4 servi ngs.

62

Sa lads 0 Vegetables

Bufiuelos de Coliflor Ca uliflower Fritters Oil will stay hot if you cook only 3 or 4 pieces offood at a time.

1 ( l -I b . ) cau l i flower, broken i nto med i u m flowerets Oil for frying 1 egg 3/4 cup m i l k

3 / 4 cu p all -pu rpose flour 1 teaspoon sugar 3/4 teaspoon bak i ng powder 1 /4 teaspoon salt P inch nutmeg

Cook cau liflowerets in boiling salted wate r 6 to 7 m in utes or until j ust tender� drain . Pour oil I inch deep into a m ed i u m saucepan. Heat oil to 3 65°F ( I 85°C) . Beat egg with m ilk in a small bowl. Combine flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and nu tmeg in a med iu m bowl. Gradually stir m ilk mi xture i n to flour m i xture. Beat until s m ooth . Dip cauliflowerets i n to batter. Fry i n hot oil until golden brown on each side. D rain on paper towels . Serve i m m ediately . Makes 6 servings .

How To Make Bufiuelos de Coliflor Dip cooked cauliflowerets in batter. Drain slightly.

Deep - fry them in hot oil until golden brown.

Salads [,. Vegetables

Ch iles en Nogada Chi les i n N u t Sauce

To make this famous red, white and green dish from Puebla, cook the chiles several hours ahead.

8 poblano chi les or California chiles, roasted, peeled 4 cups water 1 tablespoon salt 1 sm all garlic clove 1 /2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon veget able oil 3/4 lb. grou nd pork 1/2 medium onion , finely chopped 1 smal l pear, peeled , d iced 1 smal l tart apple, peeled, diced Nogada (Nut Sauce) : 1 - 1 / 2 cups chopped walnuts 1 (3-oz .) pkg. cream cheese, softened 1 tablespoon sugar

1 /4 cup raisins, plu mped i n hot water, drained 2 small tom atoes , peeled, diced ( 1 /2 lb.) 1 /4 cup slivered almonds, diced 1 /4 cup finely diced candied cactus (biznaga) , citro n , or candied pineapple N ogada, see below Seeds of 1 l arge pomegranate

3 tablespoons brandy 3/4 cup milk

Cut as small a slit as possible i n one side of each chile to remove seeds. Leave stems o n . Place chiles i n a large saucepan. Add water and 1 tablespoon salt . Bring to a boil and boil 1 minute. Remove from heat and let stand several hours or refrigerate overnight . D rain chiles� rinse and drain again. M ash garlic with 1 12 teaspoon salt to make a paste. Heat oil i n a large skillet. Add pork. Cook until browned, stirring to crumble. Add garlic paste and onion. Cook until onion is tender. Add pear, apple , raisins, tomatoes, almonds and candied cactus, citron , or pineapple. Simmer 1 5 m i nutes, stirring occasionally. Prepare Nogada . Taste meat m i xture and add more salt if needed. Let cool slightly. Spoon m eat m i xture i nto chiles. To serve , top chiles with Nogada and sprinkle with pomegranate seeds. Serve warm or at room tem perature . Makes 8 servings.

Nogada (Nut Sauce) : Combine all ingredients i n blender or food processor. Process until smooth.

Zanahorias con Tequila Carrots Flamed with Teq u i la

Ignite the tequila at a side table to a void any accidents.

3 medium carrots (1 lb.) Boil ing salted water 3 tablespoons butter

1 /4 teaspoon dried dill weed , crushed Salt and pepper 1 /4 cup tequila (2 oz.)

Peel carrots and cut i n thin diagonal slices. Cook i n boiling salted water 1 0 minu tes� drain. Melt butter i n a large stovetop casserole , a large skillet, or a presentation pan . Add carrot slices. Saute 2 to 3 minutes, sprinkling with dill and salt and pepper to taste. Add tequila� ignite. When flames die down, stir and serve . M akes 4 servings. 64

Salads [, Vegetables

E n salada de Papas con Chile Poblano Potato Salad with Pobla no Sauce

Chiles add new fla vor to potato salad.

6 medi u m boi ling potatoes (2 Ibs . ) Boi ling salted water 1 - 1 /3 cups mayonn ai se 3 t ablespoon s m i l k 4 poblano chi les, roasted , peeled , or 4 can ned whole green chi l es

1 /2 medium onion , fi nely chopped 6 oz . Monterey J ack cheese, shredded 0 - 1 /2 cu ps) 2 teaspoons l emon j u ice Salt and pepper

Peel potatoes. Cook in boiling salted water to cover until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and cool. Cut potatoes in I I2-inch cubes. Blend mayonnaise and m ilk in a small bowl� set aside. Cut chiles i n thin strips about 1 - 1 /2 inches long. Combine cubed coo ked potatoes, chile strips, onion and 2/3 of the cheese in a large bowl. S prinkle with lemon j u ice. Add salt and pepper to taste. Pour mayonn aise m i xture over salad . Toss gently but thoroughly . Turn into a serving bowl and spri nkle LOP with remaining cheese . Makes 10 serv ings.

E n salada de Papas con Cam a rones Potato Salad w ith Shri m p

A delicate a n d different potato salad.

(4- 1 /4-oz . ) cans tiny shri m p tablespoons H me or l e m o n juice garlic clove cu ps diced, cooked boi l i ng potatoes (about 3 potatoes) 1 / 2 cu p diced celery 1/4 cu p chopped green onion

2 2 1 4

1/2 cup dairy sour cream 1/2 cup mayonnaise 1 teaspoon salt 1 /2 teaspoon dry mustard 1 /4 teaspoon dried l eaf tarragon, cru shed 1 /4 teaspoon white pep per

Drain shrimp� rinse and drain again . M i x w i t h l i m e j u ice in a small bowl� chill. R u b t h e inside of a large salad bowl with cut side of garlic clove. Discard garlic. Combine potatoes , celery and onion in bowl . Add shrimp. In a small bowl, combine sour cream , mayonnaise, salt, dry mustard , tar­ ragon and white pepper. M i x well. Add to potato mixture and stir gen tly. Refrigerate several hours. Taste and add m ore salt if needed. Makes 8 servings.

65

Salads [, Vegetables

Ensalada de Macaron y Queso Macaro n i & Cheese Sa lad

For directions on roasting and peeling chiles, see pages 7 to 9.

1 cup small elbow m acaroni , uncooked Boi l i ng salted water 1 teaspoon vegetable oil 1/2 cup drained canned or cooked fresh peas 2 tablespoons fi nely chopped red onion 1 cu p small-curd cottage cheese 1/2 cup m ayonnaise

1/2 cup diced cooked carrot , drained 1/4 cup diced peeled, roasted , pobl ano ch i les or can ned chopped green ch iles 1/2 teaspoon salt Lettuce leaves Tomato wedges

Cook macaroni in boiling salted water until tender, 8 to 1 0 m inutes. Drain and cool . Place in a medium bowl. Toss with oil. Add peas , onion, cottage cheese, mayonnaise, carrot , chile , and salt. Toss gently but thoroughly. Chill. L i ne 6 salad plates with lettuce leaves. Spoon macaron i mix­ ture onto lettuce leaves . Garnish with tomato wedges. Makes 6 servings.

Chiles Rellenos de Queso Cheese- Stuffed Chi les

By leaving on the stems, Mexican cooks show they lIsed fresh chiles.

Tomato Sauce, see below 6 Californ i a ch iles, roasted, peeled , or 6 canned whole green chiles 4 oz. Monterey Jack cheese Tomato Sauce: 4 small tomatoes, peeled (1 lb.) 1/2 medium onion or 1 small onion 1 garlic clove 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1/2 cu p ch icken broth 1/2 teaspoon salt

Oil for frying 3 eggs, separated Abou t 1/2 cup all-purpose flour

2 small California ch iles, peeled, seeded, chopped , or 1/4 cup can ned chopped green ch i les P i nch ground cloves P i nch ground cinnamon

Prepare Tomato Sauce� keep warm . Cut as small a slit as possible in one side of each chile to remove seeds. Leave on stems. Pat chiles dry with paper towels. Cut cheese in to 6 long thin sticks. Place 1 stick in each chile. Use more cheese if chiles are large . If chiles are loose and open , wrap around cheese and fasten with wooden picks. Pour oil 1 14 i nch deep into a large skillet. Heat oil to 3 6 5 ° F (I 8 5 °C ) . Beat egg whi tes i n a medium bowl until stiff. S lightly beat egg yolks in a small bowl. Add all at once to beaten egg whites. Fold in lightly but thoroughly. Roll chiles in flour, then dip in egg m ix ture to coat. Fry in hot oil u ntil golden brown , turning with a spatula. Drain on paper towels. Serve immediately topped with Tomato Sauce. Makes 6 servings. Tomato Sauce : Combine tomatoes, onion and garlic in blender or food processor� puree. Heat oil in a medium saucepan . Add tomato m i x ture . Cook 1 0 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add broth , sal t , chiles, cloves and cinnamon. Simmer gently 1 5 minutes. M akes abo u t 2 cups. 66

Sa lads G Vegetables

Chayotes

0

Queso

Chayotes w ith Cheese

Supermarkets that carry Latin A merican foods may ha ve queso fresco, Mexico 's white cheese.

1 - 1 /2 lb. ch ayotes Water 2 tablespoons butter 1 small onion, finely chopped 1 /2 to 1 serrano chile or other small chile, fi nely chopped, if desi red

Salt and fres hly ground pepper 4 oz. Monterey J ack cheese, sh redded or cru mbled queso fresco (t cup)

Cut chayotes in quarters. Place in a large saucepan with water to cover. Bring to a boil� reduce heat. Cover and boil ge ntly 30 min utes or until tender. Drain and cool. Remove seeds. Peel chayotes and cut i n large dice . Melt butter in a large skillet. Add onion and ch ile, if desired. Cook until onion is tender but not browned . Add diced , cooked chayotes. Toss to coat with onion mix­ ture. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper to taste . Cook until heated through. Top with cheese . Cover and cook u ntil cheese is melted , about 5 m in u tes. U ncover and stir gently. M akes 4 to 5 servi ngs.

How To Make Chiles Rellenos de Queso

Cut small slits i n 1 Remove seeds.

side of roasted, peeled chiles.

Stuff chiles with cheese strips before coating with flour and batter.

Salads [, Vegetables

Chiles Rellenos de Elote Chi les Stuffed with Corn

To show you the variety of Mexican-style stuffed chiles, here 's a baked version.

6 poblano ch i les , roasted, peeled , or 6 can ned whole green chiles Salted water 3 ears corn or 3 cups th awed frozen whole-kernel corn 1 garlic clove 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 t ablespoon vegetable oil 1 tablespoon butter Cheese Sauce: 2 tablespoon s butter 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1-1/2 cups m i l k 1/4 teaspoon salt

1 on ion , chopped 1 large tomato, peeled, chopped Freshly ground black pepper 1/4 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, cru shed 8 oz. Monterey Jack cheese, sh redded (2 cups) Cheese Sauce, see below 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Dash w hite pepper 1/2 cup reserved shredded Monterey J ack cheese

Cut as small a slit as possible in one side of each chile to remove seeds. Leave on stems. Soak poblano ch iles in salted water for 1 hour or longer. D o not soak canned chiles. If using fresh corn , cut kernels from corn cobs and set aside . M ash garlic with salt to make a paste. Heat oi l and butter i n a large skillet. Add garlic paste and onion. Cook until onion is tender but not browned. Add tomato, corn kernels, black pepper and oregano . Cook over medium heat 10 to 1 5 m i nutes, until corn is almost tender. Remove fro m heat . R eserve 1 12 cu p of shredded Monterey Jack cheese for Cheese Sauce. Stir remaining cheese into corn m i x ture� set aside. Prepare Cheese Sauce. Preheat oven to 3 50°F ( 1 7 5 °C ) . D rain poblano chiles� rinse and drain again. If using can ned whole green chiles , drain � rinse and drain again. Stuff chiles with corn mix ture and place in a large , shallow baking dish. Pour Cheese Sauce over stuffed chiles. S prin kle with Parmesan cheese. Bake 20 to 3 0 m i n utes until hot and lightly browned on top. M akes 6 servings. C heese Sauce : Melt butter in a medium saucepan . Stir i n flour. Gradually add milk, stirring until smooth. Cook and s tir until sauce boils and thickens. Stir in salt , pepper and reserved cheese. Cook and stir u ntil cheese is melted.

68

Sa lads [, Vegetables

Chayotes

ellenos

Stuffed Chayotes

Sometimes called vegetable pears, chayotes belong to the squash family.

2 large chayotes Water 1 garl ic c10ve 1 /2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon butter 1 small onion, chopped

2 small tomatoes , peeled , chopped , drai ned (I/2 Ib.) 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley 2 oz . Cheddar cheese, shredded , ( I /2 cu p) Fresh parsley

Cut chayotes in half lengthwise. Place in a large saucepan with water to cover. Bring to a boil� reduce heat. Cover and simmer u ntil chayotes are tender when pierced with a fork, 30 to 45 m inutes. Drain and cool. Scoop out pulp with a sharp spoon , being careful not to tear shells. Reserve shells. Dice pulp and set aside. Preheat oven to 3 5 0°F ( 1 75 °C ) . Mash ga rlic with salt to make a paste. Melt butter in a large skillet. Add garlic paste and o n io n . Cook until onion is tender but not browned . Add tomatoes, chayote pulp and 1 tablespoon parsley. S im mer 1 5 m inu tes or u ntil tomatoes are cooked and liquid is evaporated . Spoon m ix ture into reserved chayote shells. Sprinkle with cheese and top with add i tional chopped parsley. Bake 20 mi nu tes or until cheese is me lted and vegetables are heated through. Makes 4 servings.

How To Make Chayotes Rellenos

Cook chayote s until tender. Scoop pulp from cooked chayotes without tearing shell.

Spoon filling into shells, top with cheese and a parsley sprig. Bake until hot.

Salads & Vegetables

Chiles Rellenos de Atun Chi les Stu ffed w ith Tuna

A flew approach for tuna salad- serve it in a chile.

4 poblano ch iles or Californ ia chiles, roasted, peeled Salted water Tuna Salad , see below 1 medium carrot , peeled , thinly sl iced Boil ing salted water 2 t ablespoons ol i ve oil 1 small onion, sl iced Tuna Salad: 1 {6- 1 /2-oz . } can tuna, d rained, flaked 1 med ium celery stalk, chopped 1 - 1 / 2 tablespoons chopped onion

1 garlic clove, thinly sliced 1 bay leaf, cru mbled 1 /4 teaspoon d ried leaf oregano, cru shed Pinch dried leaf t hyme Salt and freshly grou nd pepper 2 tablespoons wh ite v inegar Parsley sprigs

1 - 1 /2 teaspoons lemon j u ice Salt and pepper 1 /4 cu p mayon n aise 1 tablespoon wh ipping cream

Cut as small a slit as possible i n one side of each chile to rem ove seeds. Leave on stems. Cover poblano chiles with salted water and let stand 1 hour or longer . D o not soak canned chiles. Pre­ pare Tuna Salad� chill. Cover and cook carrot i n boiling salted water 5 m i n utes� drai n . Heat olive oil in a large ski llet . Add onion and garl ic. Cook until onion is tender but not browned. Add coo ked carrot, bay leaf, o regano , thyme and salt and peppe r to taste . Cook a few min utes longer, but do not let vegetables brown . Stir i n vi negar� remove from heat . Drain chiles. R inse well and drain again. Stuff ch iles with chilled Tuna Salad. Place on a platter. Top with vegetable mixture and garn ish with parsley sprigs. Serve chi lled. Makes 4 servings. Tu n a Salad : I n a medi um bowl , combine tuna, celery, o ni on , lem on ju ice and salt and pepper to taste. Blend mayon naise and cream i n a small bowl. Add to tuna m i x ture. Toss with a fork.

Cam arones para Chiles Rellenos Shri m p Stuffi ng for Chi les

Use any chiles reI/enos recipe

2 2 6 2

10

prepare chiles. Then Sluff wilh this delectable shrimp.

tablespoons vegetable oil green onions, chopped oz. shrimp, cooked chopped tomatoes, peeled, seeded, chopped

2 tablespoons capers 1 tablespoon chopped pimiento-stuffed ol ives 1 /2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, cru shed

Heat oil in a medium ski llet. Saute onions until tende r. Add rem aining i ngredients. Cook over medium heat until thickened , 7 to 1 0 mi nutes. Makes en ough filling for 8 to 1 0 chiles.

70

Sa lads [, Vegetables

Jalapenos y

�r u r

Pickled Jalapeno C h i les & Vegetables

en E sca bec h e

Refrigerate these easy-to-make pickles and serve as a sallce or as a side dish.

Water Salt 1 /4 cup s l iced celery 1 /4 cup s l iced carrot 1 /2 cup small cau l i flowerets 1 /4 cup veget able oil 1 /4 medium onion, slivered 2 garlic cloves 1 cup w h ite v i negar

1 small bay leaf 1 /4 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, cru shed Pi nch dried leaf thyme, crushed 8 peppercorns 1 / 2 teaspoon salt 1 (6- 1 /2-oz . ) can j alapeno ch i les (not pickled)

Bring 1 to 2 cu ps salted water to a boil in a small saucepan. Drop in celery and immediately remove with a slot ted spoon. Drop in carrots and bo il 4 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold wate r. Bring another 1 t o 2 cups salted water to a boil. Add cauliflowerets. Bo i l 4 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water. Heat oil in a medium sauce pan . Add onion and garl ic. Cook until onion is crisp-tender but not browned. Add vinegar, bay leaf, oregano, thyme, peppercorns and sal t . Sim­ mer 5 mi nutes. Add jalapeno chiles with liqu id, celery, carrot and cau liflowerets. Bring to a boil and remove from heat . Spoon vege tables carefully into a clean hot jar. Cover with the hot cook­ ing liquid. Let cool � cover with a tight fi tting lid. Refrigerate 1 or 2 days before using to blend flavors. Oil in pickles will become cloudy in refrigerator. Let pickles stand at room temperature a few m i nutes before servi ng and cloudiness will disappear. Makes about 3 cups.

How To Make Jalapenos y Verd uras en Escabec he Cook celery, ca rrots and cauliflowerets. D r a i n and rinse ; drain again.

Spoon hot cooked vegeta bles into a jar. Cover with hot cook ing liquid.

Salads [, Vegetables

Chiles Rellenos de Guacamole G uaca m o le Stu ffed Chi les

Cooks in Mexico use limes more than they use lemons.

6 small poblano chiles or 4 fresh California chiles, roasted , peeled Salted water Vin aigrette Dressing, see below 2 mediu m avocados 1 small tomato, chopped

1/2 small onion , fi nely chopped 1 /2 teaspoon l i me j uice or lemon j u ice 1 /2 teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon ground cu m i n Lettuce leaves Tomato wedges

Vinaigrette Dressing: 6 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons white v inegar 1 /2 teapoon salt 1 /4 teaspoon paprika

1 /8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper 1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley 1/2 teaspoon chopped fres h chives

Cut as small a slit as possible in one side o t each ch ile or pepper to remove seeds. Leave on stems. Soak i n salted water 1 hour. Drain; rinse well and drai n again . Cover and refrigerate u n til serving time. Prepare Vinaigrette D ressing. Let stand to blend flavors. At serving time, peel avocados and slice into a medium bowl . M ash with a fork. Stir in tomat o, onion , lime j u ice or lemon juice , salt and cumin . Line a platter with lettuce leaves. Place a spoonful of avocado mix ture in each chile . Place stuffed chiles on lettuce leaves� garnish with tomato wedges. S hake dressing and pour over chiles. Makes 4 to 6 servings. Vin aigrette Dressing : Combine all ingredients in a jar with a tight- fitting lid . Shake well. S hake again before using.

E nsalada Verde de Vivian Vivian's G reen Sa lad

A hearty green salad good with anything from carne asada to enchiladas.

1 medium head butter lettuce 1 / 2 medium green pepper, cut i n thin slivers 1 /4 cu p cilantro leaves

1 /4 1 /4 1 /4 1 /4

cup s liced pi tted ripe olives cup drai ned canned garbanzo beans cup sliced green onions to 1 /3 cup Italian dressi ng

Rinse and drain lettuce. Tear into bite-size pieces. Place in a salad bowl. Add green pepper, cilantro , olives and garbanzo beans. Toss with enough I talian dressing to coat lightly. Makes 6 servings.

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P latos de Torti l las Torti l la Dishes Corn has always been importan t in the Mex­ ican k itchen . The M ayans believed man was cre­ ated from corn dough , or masa. The Aztecs worshipped corn gods. Many foods eaten today, includ ing tortillas, tamales and the corn beverage atole, were enjoyed by Mexican I ndians long before the S panish conquerors arrived . Although corn is no longer worshipped , it is still bad form to throw away a tortilla. Leftover tortillas are cu t up and fried to make Totopos (Corn C hips) , page 30, or they are cut into strips or squares, deep-fried and m i xed with sauce for Chilaquiles con Salsa Verde (To rtilla S trips with Green Sauce ) . Sometimes tortillas are ground and used to thicken or flavor a dish such as Mole Pob­ lano (Mole Puebla-Style) , page 1 1 6 . The most novel use of tortillas I ' ve seen was at a beachfront restaurant i n Zihuatanej o . Tortillas that appeared

to shingle the roof were being dried for bu rro feed ! Tacos, enchiladas and tamales, a s most o f us know them , are often made quite differently i n Mexico. I n add ition to crisp fried tacos, you'll fi nd soft tacos- m ade by wrapping filling in steamed torti llas. Enchiladas are usually rolled and served at once without baking. And they are frequently topped with crumbly Mex ican-style cheese rather than m elted cheese. Although they are eaten all y e a r, tama les are trad i t i o n a l fo r C h r i st m a s . Fam ilies gather to share in t h e preparation of dozens of tamales to serve to visiting family and friends during the holidays. My reci pes are only a sampling of tortilla foods. It is im possible to catalog all these dishes or to accou n t for regional customs and the variations of different cooks.

C O M PANY D IN N E R Pozole Blanco (Golden Hominy Soup) Tamales de Puerco (Pork Tamales) Salsa Fresca (Fresh Sauce) Ensalada Verde de Vivian (Vivian's Green Salad) Zanahoria s con Tequila (Carrots Flamed with Teq uila) Pie de Kahlua (Kahlua Pie)

page page page page page page

46 95 33 72 64 1 77

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Tortilla D ishes

Tortillas de M a {z Corn Torti l l as

Versatile tortillas can be folded, stacked, rolled or cut into chips and fried.

1 cup instant masa 1/2 cup water

Place i nstant masa in a medium bowl. Work in water with your fi ngers to make a soft dough. If do ugh is crumbly or dry, blend in a li ttle more water. S hape dough into a ball. Cover with a damp towel� let stand 20 minutes. Preheat an ungreased griddle or large heavy ski llet over medium heat. L i ne the bottom of a tortilla press with plastic wrap. If you're not using a tortilla press, place plastic wrap on a flat surface. D ivide dough into equal pieces according to the number and size tortillas desired. S hape each piece of dough i n to a ball and place on the lined tortilla press or flat su rface . Place another piece of plastic wrap on top of dough. Press with the palm of your hand to flatten ball sligh tly. Close tortilla press firmly and then open. Or flatten dough by pressing with the bottom of a small heavy skillet. I f necessary, press plastic with your fingers to flatten fu rther. Peel plastic from top and bottom o f torti lla. I f tortilla sticks , dough is too wet; work i n 1 teaspoon instan t masa. Add more masa, a little at a time, if n ecessary . If tortilla crumbles , dough is too dry� work in 1 teaspoon water. Add more water, a little at a time, if n ecessary. To bake tortillas , cook on preheated griddle or skillet until lightly spotted with brown on each side , turning once . Stack cooked tortillas and cover with a dry cloth towe l . Tortillas may feel stiff as they come from the griddle but will soften as they stand. Makes six 6-inch tortillas. H ow Much to M ake H ow M a n y ?

Mix I cup o f instan t masa w ith 1 12 cup of water a s directed above . Divide M as a I nto: 6 pieces 8 pieces 1 2 pieces 20 pieces

To M ak e : six 6-i nch tortillas eight 5 -i nch tort illas twelve 4-inch tortillas twenty 3-inch tortillas

CORN TORTILLAS I n Mex ico you buy hot fresh tortillas from the neighborhood tortilleria. You can also buy dough for tortillas, called !nasa. I n other countries , dried corn flour called instant !nasa is often available. I t is m ix ed w i t h water to m a k e !nasa for tortillas. One brand is M asa Harina, produced by the Quaker Oats Company . M e xican-style corn tor­ tillas and other corn prod ucts sh o uld be made

74

with this flo u r - not with cornmeal. S haping tortillas takes practice. S killed tortilla makers pat the dough into a thin circle between their hands. Some use a metal or wooden tortilla press. I f you d on 't have a tortilla press, use a h eavy, flat object such as an iron skillet to press the dough. Press the dough between pieces of plastic wrap to prevent sticking.

Work warm water into masa with your fi ngers to make a soft dough. Then shape dough into balls.

Flatten balls and place on torti lla press betwee n pieces of plastic wrap.

How To Make Tortillas de Maiz

Close tortilla press firmly ; open press.

""""' - , ......; . -

Peel plastic from top of tortilla. I nvert onto a flat sur­ face and remove bottom plastic.

Torti lla D ishes

Tortillas de H a rina Flour Tort i l las

Popular in Northern Mexico, flour tortillas are eaten like bread and used to make burritos.

About 1 /2 cup warm water Additional lard Additional flour

2 cups all- purpose flour 1 / 2 teaspoon salt 1 /4 cup lard

Combine 2 cups flour and salt i n a medi um bowl. Rub i n 1 14 cu p lard with your fi ngers until evenly m ixed. Gradually stir i n enough water to make a soft dough. D i vide dough into quarters. Di vide each quarter i nto 3 equal pieces, making 1 2 pieces of dough i n all. S hape each piece into a smooth ball. With your hands, smooth additional lard over each ball to coat generously. Place balls in a medium bowl� cover with a dry cloth towel. Let stand at least 1 5 m i n u tes. Preheat an u ngreased griddle or large h eavy skillet over medium heat. S hape each ball into a flat round patty. Spri n k le both sides of patties with flour. On a lightly flou red su rface, roll out each patty to an 8inch circle . Place each tortilla on preheated griddle. Cook u n til bubbles form on top and u nder­ side is flecked with brown. Turn torti lla and press down bu bbles with towel. Cook u n til bottom is flecked with brown . S tack cooked tortillas and cover with a dry cloth towel . Serve i mmed iately or wrap i n foil and reheat briefly i n o ve n before serving. Makes twelve 8-inch tortillas.

FLO UR TORTILLAS Only flour , shortening and water are used to make flour tortillas and they are rolled out with a rolling pin . H owever, as i n making corn tortillas, practice will i mprove the product . Flour tortillas can be bought i n several sizes : 4i nch and 6-inch or snack-size , 8 - inch or table­ size , and 1 2-inch o r I S -inch tortillas for burritos. When you make your own , you can make any size, but tortillas should be evenly shaped and

76

evenly cooked so the edges are not ragged or thin and d ry . Mexican cooks want their tortillas eaten at the height of perfection so they serve t hem directly from the griddle. Cold tortillas can be warmed on a griddle or wrapped i n foi l and h eated in the oven at 3 50°F ( 1 7 5°C ) for 1 5 m inutes. Experts warm them over an open flame, but i f you 're a novice, you may end up with a charred tortilla !

Tort i l l a Dishes

An enchilada is a corn tortilla rol led around a filling, baked in a sau ce and served with a variety of garnishes. The fi lling and sau ce are pre pared and cooked in advance . Wh e n the enchiladas are assembled, they are baked to melt the cheese and to heat thoroughly . H o w to Soften Tortillas Begin b y using tongs t o place tortillas o n e at a t i m e in hot oil o r h o t melted lard for just a few secon ds on each side. This will soften them so they can be rolled without crack­ ing and breaking. D rain the tortillas over the skillet or on paper towels. Some recipes call for dipping the tortillas in sa uce either before or afte r soften ing. This is not necessary but may add flavor to the tortillas. Filling & Rol ling - Place a soften ed tortilla on a plate or flat surface . S pread a spoonful of fi lling in a strip just below the ce nter. Roll up tightly and pl ace the enchilada seam -side down in a baking -

d ish . The baking d ish is not greased , but spoon­ ing a little sauce over the bottom of the dish may prevent the enchiladas from sticking. When all the enchiladas are fi lled and rol led , cover them with the sau ce so they wo n ' t beco me dry while baking. Be sure the enchilada ends are covered or they will be dry and tough . Preparing i n Advance - I f you fill and roll up enchiladas in advance , don't cover them with sauce . Enchiladas soaked in sauce will be m ushy. I nstead , spread a little sauce o n the edges and tops to keep them moist. Cover and refrigerate the prepared enchiladas until you 're ready to bake them. Pour the rest of the sauce over the enchiladas and top with sh redded cheese just before baking. Freezing - Leftover enchiladas freeze well wrap­ ped in foil. Thaw enchiladas 2 to 4 hours at room temperature and reheat them at 3 5 0°F (I 7 5 °C) .

E n c h i la d s de Leche Enchi ladas i n Milk Sauce

To keep assembled enchiladas warm, co ver them with foil and place them in a 200 °F (95 °C) o ven.

1 - 1 /4 cups Salsa para Enchiladas, page 37 8 oz. queso fresco or farmer cheese, room tem peratu re, cru mbled (2 cups) 1 med i u m onion, chopped

1 cu p milk 2 eggs, beaten Salt 1 /2 cup l ard 1 2 corn tortillas

Prepare Sa lsa para Ench iladas. Set aside about 1 12 cup cheese a nd a third of the o n i o n fo r toppi ng. Combine ench ilada sauce and milk in a shallow sauce pa n . Bri n g to a boil. G radually stir some of the hot sauce into beaten eggs . Pour egg mixture into saucepa n . Add salt to taste . H eat u nt il steaming bu t do not boil or sauce will curdle. Heat lard in a medium sk illet. Use tongs to d ip 1 tortilla at a time in sauce then in hot lard. H o ld in lard 3 to 5 seconds. Quickly turn tortilla and fry other side , 3 to 5 seco n ds. Place tortilla o n a plate. Add about 2 tablespoons of the cheese and abo ut I teaspoon of the o n ion. Roll up and place seam-side down on a warm platter� keep warm . When all enchiladas are prepared, top with remai n i ng sauce, the n rese rved cheese and oni on. Serve at once. Makes 1 2 enchiladas.

77

Torti lla D ishes

Enchiladas de PolIo en Mole Chicken Mole Enchi ladas

Mole paste can be bought in gourmet shops or Mexican food stores.

1 /2 cup mole paste 2 cups chicken broth 2 tablespoons toasted slivered almonds 1/2 oz. semisweet chocolate 1 /4 teaspoon M aggi seasoning

1 /3 cup plus 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 8 corn torti llas 2 cups s hredded cooked chicken 1 teaspoon sesame seeds

Combine mole paste, chicken broth , almonds, chocolate and Maggi seasoning in blender or food processor. Process u ntil smooth. Heat I tablespoon oil in a medium saucepan. Add mole paste mixture. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Simmer u ncovered until slightly th ickened, 5 to 1 0 minutes. Heat 1 /3 cup oil i n a medium skillet. With tongs, carefully place 1 tortilla at a time i n hot oil. Hold i n oil 3 to 5 seconds until softened. Quickly turn tortilla and soften other side , 3 to 5 seconds, then dip in mole sauce to coat. Lay coated tortilla on a plate and top with a spoonful of the ch icken . Roll up tightly and place seam-side down on a warm platter. Re peat with rem aining tortillas. Top ench iladas w ith rem aining sauce; sprin kle with sesame seeds . Serve im mediately. Makes 8 ench iladas. Variation

S u bstitute leftover sauce from M ole Poblano , page 1 1 6 , for the mole paste.

Enchiladas de Queso Cheese Enchi ladas

You 'll be proud to serve enchiladas with your o wn homemade sallce.

2 - 1 /3 cups Salsa para Enchiladas, page 37, or Salsa de Chile en Polvo, page 39 8 oz. cheese such as C heddar or a combin at ion of Cheddar and Monterey Jack, s hredded (2 cups)

1 /4 cup vegetable oil 6 corn tortillas 1 sm all onion , chopped 4 green onion s , chopped

Prepare salsa; heat i n a medium saucepan. Reserve about a th ird of the cheese for topping ench iladas . Heat oil i n a medium skillet. With tongs, carefully place 1 tortilla at a time in hot oil. Hold in oil 3 to 5 seco nds until softened. Quickly turn tortilla and soften other side, 3 to 5 seconds. Drain over ski llet or on paper towels. I m mediately dip tortilla in hot enchilada sauce; remove at once. Do not soak tortilla or it may tear. Place torti lla on a plate and arrange some of the cheese in a stri p j ust below the center. S prinkle cheese with chopped onion. Roll up tightly and place seam -side down in an 8-inch square or other shallow , medium baking dish. Preheat oven to 3 50°F ( I 7 5 °C) . When all enchiladas are prepared, cover with remaining sauce. Sprinkle with reserved cheese. Bake 1 5 to 20 min utes, until cheese is melted and enchiladas are heated through. Garnish with green onions and se rve at once . Makes 6 enchiladas .

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Tort i l la D ishes

Carefully dip tortillas i nto hot oil 3 to 5 seconds on each side.

How To Make Enchiladas de Queso

Then dip tortilla into sauce and remove at once.

P lace cheese and onion in a strip just below the center. Roll up tightly. Place seam- side down i n baking d ish.

Torti l l a D ishes

E nchiladas de PolIo

Photo on cover.

Deluxe Ch icken Enchi ladas

Company coming ? These enchiladas are plumper than most and perfect banquet food.

2 w hole chicken breasts Water 1 /2 small onion 1 bay leaf 8 peppercorns Salt 1 /2 medium onion , chopped 3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese 4 oz. Monterey Jack cheese, shredded (I cup) 1 (4-oz.) can green chiles 1 (I3-oz.) can tomatillos, drained or 1 -3 /4 cups drained canned tomatoes

1 /4 cup cilantro leaves 3/4 cup w hipping cream 1 egg Salt 1 /4 cup lard 8 corn tortillas 4 oz. Cheddar or Monterey Jack cheese, shredded (I cup) G u acamole, page 40 1 cup dairy sour cream 3 or 4 radishes, s liced 2 cups s hredded lettuce 12 ripe olives

Place chicken breasts i n a large pot or D u tch oven. Add water to cover, onion , bay leaf, pepper­ corns and salt to taste. Bring to a boil� reduce heat . Cover and simmer 45 m in utes or u ntil tender. Cool chicken i n broth. Drai n , reserving broth for another use. S hred chicken with 2 forks or with your fingers. Mix shredded chicke n , chopped onion, Parmesan cheese and I cu p shredded Mon­ terey Jack cheese . Taste and add salt i f needed. Set aside. In blender or food processor, combine green chiles, tomatillos or tomatoes, cilantro , whipping cream and egg. Blend until smooth. Add sal t t o taste. Set aside. Preheat oven to 3 50°F (I 7 5 °C ) . Heat lard i n a small skillet. With tongs, carefully place I tortilla at a time i n hot lard . Hold i n lard 3 to 5 seconds u ntil softened. Qu ickly turn tortilla and soften other side , 3 to 5 seconds. D rain over skillet or o n paper towels. Place 1 /8 of the chicken m ixture o n each tortilla, pressing the m ixture to make it compact. Roll tightly and place seam-side down i n a 1 2 " x 7- 1 /2 " baking dish. Pour chile-cream mixture over enchiladas and sprinkle evenly with 1 cu p shredded C heddar or Monterey Jack cheese. Bake 20 m i n u tes, or until h eated through and bubbly. Prepare Guacamole. For each serving, place 2 enchiladas o n a plate and top w ith about 3 tablespoons sour cream . Place a mound of Guacamole over sour cream . Gar n is h with rad ish slices. Place 1 /2 cu p shredded lettuce next to ench i ladas, i f desired. Place a mound of Guacamole o n lettuce . Top Guacamole with 1 tablespoon sour cream and 2 ripe olives if desired. Makes 8 enchiladas.

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Tort i l la D ishes

Enchiladas Verdes Green E nc h i l adas

These enchiladas from Guadalajara are folded rather than rolled.

1 whole chicken breast Water 1/4 m edium onion Salt 3 peppercorns 1 lb. fresh tom atillos or 1 cup drained canned tomatillos Water

1 /2 mediu m onion 1 large garlic clove 1 tablespoon l ard 1 / 2 teaspoon salt 1 /4 cup l ard 6 corn tortillas Crumbled queso fresco or shredded Monterey Jack cheese

Place chicken breast i n a large saucepan. Add water to cover. Add on ion quarter, salt to taste and peppercorns. Bring t o a boil� reduce heat. Cover and simmer 45 m i nu tes. Cool chicken breast in broth. Drain , reserving 1 /4 cup broth . Reserve remaining broth fo r another use. Remove meat from bones and shred with 2 forks or your fingers. If using fresh t omatillos, remove papery husks. Wash h usked tomatillos and place i n a medium saucepan . Add 1 /2 inch water. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. C over and simmer 1 0 m inutes or u ntil tender; drain. Cool slightly. Do not cook canned tomatillos. Place cooked o r canned tomatillos i n blender or food processor with 1 12 onion and garlic. Process u ntil pureed. Heat 1 tablespoon lard i n a medium saucepan. Add pu reed tomatillo m ixture, reserved broth and 1 12 teaspoon salt . Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Cover and simmer sauce 1 5 m in utes. When ready to pre pare enchiladas, warm shredded chicken and bring sauce to a simmer. Heat 1 /4 cup lard in a medium skillet. With tongs, care fully place 1 tortilla at a time i n h ot lard . Hold in lard 3 to 5 seconds until softened. Q u ickly turn tortilla and soften other side, 3 t o 5 seconds. Drain o ver s killet o r on paper towels. Place a spoonful of the shredded chicken on each tortilla. Sprinkle with salt and add a spoonfu l of sauce. Fold tortilla i n half over filling. Place o n a warm plate. Top with more sauce and sprinkle with cru mbled queso fresco or M o nterey Jack cheese. S erve immediately. Makes 6 enchiladas.

Papadzules Egg - F i l led Enchi ladas

Enchiladas filled with hard-cooked eggs are popular in Yucatan.

4 hard-cooked eggs Tom ato S auce for Enchiladas Jaiba. page 83

Salt and pepper 1 /3 cup vegetable oil 8 corn tortillas

Prepare eggs; keep warm . Prepare Tomato Sauce� keep warm . J ust before serving. pee l and chop eggs. Add salt and pepper to taste. Heat oil in a medi u m skil let. With longs. carefully place I tor­ tilla at a time in hot oil. Ho ld in oil 3 to 5 seconds until softened. Q u ickly turn tortilla and soften other side, 3 to 5 seconds. Drain over skillet o r on paper towels. Place a spoo nful of the cho pped egg on each tortilla and roll up. Place 2 papadzules seam -side down on each plate and top with about 1 12 cu p Tomato Sauce. Serve immediately. Ma kes 8 enchiladas.

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Tortilla Dishes

Enchiladas Suiza s Swiss Enchi ladas

Suiza means the dish includes a dairy product.

1 whole chicken breast Water 1 /4 smal l onion 1 bay leaf 4 peppercorn s S a l t a n d pepper 1 lb . fresh tomatillos or 1 cup drained canned tomatillos Water 1/2 s mall onion 1 l arge garlic clove

1 tablespoon packed fresh cilantro leaves 1 serrano chile or other small hot chile, seeded 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 /2 teaspoon salt 1 /4 cup vegetable oil 6 corn tortillas 6 oz. M onterey J ack cheese, coarsely shredded 0 - 1 /2 cups) Dairy sour cream

P lace chicken breast in a large saucepan with water t o cover. Add 1 /4 onion, bay leaf, pepper­ corns and salt to taste. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Cover and simmer 45 m i n u tes. Cool chicken breast in broth. D rain , reserving 1 cup broth . Remove meat fro m bones and shred chicken with 2 forks o r with your fingers. Add salt and pepper to taste. If using fresh tomatillos, remove papery husks. Wash husked tomatillos and place in a mediu m saucepan . Add 1 12 inch water. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Cover and simmer 1 0 m in u tes or until tender; drain . Cool slightly. D o n o t cook canned tomatillos. Place cooked o r can n ed tomatillos i n blender or food processor with 1 12 o nion , garlic, cilantro and chile . Process u ntil pureed. H eat 2 tablespoons oil in a medium saucepan . Add pureed tomatillo m ix ture . Cook 2 t o 3 m i n utes. Add reserved chicken broth and 1 12 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil; reduce heat . Cover and simmer sauce 1 5 m i n u tes. Preheat oven to 3 5 00P ( 1 7 5 °C ) . Heat 1 /4 cup oil i n a medium skillet. With tongs , carefu lly place 1 tortilla at a time i n hot oil. Hold in o il 3 to 5 seconds until softened. Qu ickly turn tortilla and soften o ther side, 3 t o 5 seconds. D rain over skillet o r o n paper towels. Place a spoonfu l of the shredded chicken on tortilla. Roll up and place seam-side down in a shallow baking dish. When all ench iladas are assembled , cover with sauce and top with cheese. Bake 1 5 to 20 m i n utes, u n til cheese i s melted and bubbling. To serve , top each enchilada wit h a spoonfu l o f sou r cream. Makes 6 e nchiladas.

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Tortilla Dishes

E nchiladas Jaiba Crab Enchi ladas

For something really different, try these enchiladas from Veracruz.

Tom ato S au ce, see below Crab Filling, see below 1/4 cup vegetable oil 6 cor n tortillas Tomato Sauce: 4 s mall tomatoes, peeled (1 lb.) 1/2 m edium onion 1 garlic clove 1/4 to 1/2 j al apeno chile or other s m al l hot chile Crab Filling: 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1/2 medi u m onion, chopped 1 small garlic clove, m inced 6 oz. cooked or cann ed crab, drained, flaked 3 Spanish-style green olives, pitted, chopped

Dairy sou r cream 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley 1 tablespoon chopped almonds

1 t ablespoon vegetable oil 1/2 teaspoon salt

1 t ablespoon raisins, plumped in hot water, drained 1 t ablespoon chopped almonds 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 teaspoon capers Salt to taste

Prepare Tomato Sauce and keep warm . Prepare Crab Pilling. Preheat oven to 3 500P ( I 75°C ) . Heat oil i n a medium skillet. With tongs, carefully place 1 tortilla at a time in hot oil. Hold i n oil 3 to 5 seconds u ntil softened. Quickly turn tortilla and soften o ther side, 3 to 5 seconds. Drain over skillet or on paper towels. Place a generous spoonful o f Crab Pilling on each tortilla. Roll u p and place in a baking dish. When all enchiladas are prepared , cover with Tomato Sauce. Cover baki ng dish w i th foil. Bake 1 5 m i n u tes or until heated through. Garnish enchiladas with a generous spoonfu l of sour crea m . Sprinkle with parsley and almonds. Makes 6 e nchiladas . Tom ato S au ce : Combine tomatoes, onion, garlic and chile in blender or food processor and process until pureed. Heat oil in a medium saucepan . Add tomato m i x ture and salt. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Sim­ mer gently u ncovered 10 m inutes. Makes abo u t 2 cups. Crab Filling : Heat oil in a medium skillet. Add onion and garlic. Cook u ntil tender. S tir in remaining ingre­ dients. Cook over medium heat 3 to 5 m i nu tes.

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Torti l l a Dishes

E n chiladas Chata s de Nuevo Mexico New Mexica n Flat Enchi ladas

In New Mexico, each stack of tortillas, meat and beans would be topped with a fried egg.

1 / 2 cup dried pinto beans H ot water for soaking 1 medium onion 2 garlic cloves Water for cooking 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons vegetable oi l 1 O -lb . 3-oz.) can enchilad a s auce or 2 - 1 /4 cups Salsa para Enchiladas, p age 37 1 lb. ground beef 1 / 2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crushed

1 / 2 teaspoon ground cumin S alt 8 oz. Longhorn or mild Cheddar cheese, shredded (2 cups) 1/2 cup vegetable oil 1 2 corn tort i l l as 1 avocado, cut in 1 6 thin s lices 3/4 cup dairy sour cream 4 cups finely shredded lettuce 1 2 p itted ripe olives 2 small tomatoes 0 /2 lb.) , cu t i n 1 2 wedges

Sort beans to remove small stones and o ther foreign matter. Place beans with hot water to cover i n a medium saucepan. Cover and let s tand overnight or at least 8 hours. D rain beans and rinse well. Place soaked beans, 1 /8 of the o nio n and 1 garlic clove i n a 2-quart saucepan. Add fresh hot water t o cover generously. Bring to a boil; reduce heat . Cover with lid ajar and simmer 2 hours. Add 1 /2 teaspoon salt. S im mer 2 hours longer, u ntil beans are tender but n o t m ushy. Heat can­ n ed sauce or prepare Salsa para Enchiladas. Chop remaining onion . M ince remaining garlic clove. Heat 2 tablespoons oil i n a large, heavy skillet. Add beef. Cook u n ti l n o longer pink , stirring to crumble . Add chopped onion and m inced garlic. Cook until o nion is almost tender. Add 1 - 1 /4 cups enchilada sauce or salsa, oregano and cum i n . Add drained beans. S immer 5 minutes. Taste and add salt i f needed. D ivide cheese i n to fou r 1 /2-cup portions, one for each enchilada. Prepare each e nchilada in a 9-inch pie plate or o ther o ven proof plate. H eat 1 / 2 cup oil in a medium skillet. For each enchilada, use tongs to lower tortilla gently i n to hot oil. Hold i n oil 3 to 5 seconds until softened . Q uickly turn tortilla and soften other side, 3 to 5 seconds. D rain over skillet or o n paper towels. Place in pie plate. Cover evenly with 1 /3 cup m eat mixture and a little cheese. Soften another tortilla i n hot oil; drain and place o n top of cheese . Add another 1 /3 cup meat m ixture and a little cheese . Soften a third tortilla; d rain and place o n stack. Add another 1 /3 cup meat mixture and remaining portion of cheese. Cover evenly with 1 /4 cup remain i ng enchilada sauce . Prepare 3 more enchiladas. While preparing last e nchilada, preheat oven to 3 50°F ( 1 7 5 °C) . Bake enchiladas 1 0 to 15 m in u tes, o r u ntil cheese is melted. Top each stack with 4 avocado slices arranged like spokes of a wheel. Place a mound of sour cream in the center. Arrange shredded lettuce around each enchilada. Garnish with olives and tomato wedges. Makes 4 large servings.

Variation

Substitute 1 - 1 /2 cups drained canned pinto beans for cooked dried beans.

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T A CO PARTY Entertaining with tacos is fun and econo m ical. Arrange the food buffet-style on colorful painted trays and in wooden bowls. Glazed pottery and baskets of various sizes and shapes make mar­ velous and authentic serving containers and decorations. Set a festive mood with brightly col­ ored napkins, large paper flowers and candles. In this section you'll find recipes for Tacos de Pollo ( C h i c k e n T a c o s ) , Ta cos de Ma n uel ( Manuel's Tacos ) and Tacos de Machaca ( Shred­ ded Beef Tacos) . Or choose from fi llings such as Frijoles R efritos ( Refried Beans ) , page 1 49; Car­ nitas a la Casera ( Home-Style Meats ) , page 1 1 5 ; Carne Deshebrada (S h redded Meat ) , page 1 09; and Mole de Puerco ( Pork Mole) , page 1 1 4. Buy packages o f shaped taco shells or shape your own, page 90. I f you want to serve soft tacos, buy corn tortillas, wrap them i n foil and heat them i n a preheated 3 50°F ( l 75 °C ) oven for about 1 5 m i n u tes. S poon whatever fillings you want along one end o f a warm tortilla, roll it u p and eat it immed iately.

Refried beans are ex pected at a Mex ican meal, so if you don't serve them as a taco filling, be sure they appear as a side dish. Any of the rice recipes on pages l 3 9 to 1 47 will round out your tradi­ tional men u . Tacos are usually garnished w i t h shredded let­ tuce, chopped green onions, chopped tomatoes and canned or homemade salsa. See Salsas ( Sauces ) , pages 3 2 to 40. Sour cream and shred­ ded Cheddar or Monterey Jack cheese add to the i n t r i g u i n g fla v o r and t e x t u re c o n trasts. If avocados are in season, top your tacos with Guacamole ( Avocado Sauce ) , page 40. Many supermarkets carry guacamole or avocado dip in the frozen food section. Arrange the garn ishes in separate bowls or in a sectioned platter. Greet each guest with a Margarita, page 1 2 , or a glass of Sangria, page 1 7 . Sangria can be poured from a large iced pitcher or ladled fro m an elegant punch bowl . Ice cream topped with Kahlua pro­ vides an easy but satisfying dessert.

MENU Margaritas, page 1 2 Tacos de Polio (Chicken Tacos) , page 9 1 Shredded Lettuce Chopped G reen Onions Chopped Tomatoes Salsa Fresca (Fresh Sauce) , page 3 3 Sour Cream Shredded Cheddar Cheese Guacamole (Avocado Sauce) , page 40 Frijoles Refritos (Refried Beans) , page 1 49 Arroz a la Mexicana (Rice Mexican-Style) , page 1 40 Ice Cream with Kahlua

Tacos) , taco The Taco P a rty on the following pages shows from bottom left : Tacos de Polio (Chicken and Carne Oeshebrad a shells, M argaritas, filling for Tacos de Polio, Frijoles Refritos (Refrled Beans) shredded lettuce, chopped (Shredded Meat). O n the tray a re bowls of chopped onion, shredded cheese, Sauce). (Avocado tomato and G uacamole

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Tort i l l a Dishes

Tacos de Machaca Sh redded Beef Tacos

Machaca is spiced shredded beef It is often served by itself as a main dish.

M achaca, see below 6 to 8 corn tortil l as Machaca : 1 lb. boneless beef chuck 1 cu p w ater 6 peppercorns 1 /4 medium onion Salt 1 garlic clove 1 /4 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon vegetable oil Garnishes: Salsa Fresca, page 33, Salsa Mexicana, page 33, or other salsa 1 avocado Juice of 1 / 2 lime

G arnis hes , see below

1 /2 medium onion, chopped 1 California chile or 1 poblano chile, roasted, peeled or 1 canned w hole green chile 2 s m al l tomatoes, peeled , chopped ( 1 / 2 IbJ 1 /4 teaspoon grou nd cu min Freshly ground pepper

Salt 1 onion , chopped Cilantro leaves, chopped

Prepare M achaca. Preheat oven to 3 50°F ( I 7 5 °C) . Wrap tortillas in foi l and place i n oven u ntil softened, abo ut 15 minutes. Prepare Garnishes. For each taco, place a spoon fu l o f Machaca o n a warm tortilla. Top w ith avocado m i x t ure , onion, cilantro and salsa to taste. Fold tortilla around filling. Repeat with remain i ng i ngredients. Serve i mmediately. Makes 6 to 8 tacos. M achaca (Shredded Beef) : Place meat i n a large saucepan. Add water , peppercorns, 1 14 onion and salt to taste. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Cover and simmer u ntil meat is very tender, about 1 - 1 /2 hours. Cool meat i n broth. Drain, reserving 1 /3 c u p broth. S hred meat with 2 forks. M ash garlic with 1 14 teaspoon salt to make a paste. Heat oil i n a large skillet. Add chopped onion and garlic paste. Cook until onion is tender. C u t chile into short strips. Add chile strips and to matoes to cooked onion. Cook 3 to 4 m i n utes. Add meat, cumin and freshly ground pepper to taste. Cook and stir until meat is heated through. Stir i n reserved broth. Taste and add salt i f needed . Keep war m . G arnishes : Prepare salsa. Mash avocado in a small bowl. Stir i n lime j u ice and salt to taste. Beat until smooth. Place avocado m i x tu re , onion, cilantro and salsa i n separate bowls.

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Torti l l a D ishes

Tacos d e M a n uel Manuel ' s Tacos

These tacos are cooked with the filling inside. Freeze extra filling for another lise.

Steak & C horizo Filling , see below 16 to 20 corn tortillas Oil for fryi ng 1 small head lettuce, shredded 8 oz. Longhorn cheese, s hredded (2 cups) Steak & Chorizo Filling: 1 l b . flank steak Water Salt 1 potato (about 8 oz.) Boiling salted w ater

3 l arge tom atoes, chopped (t lb.) 1 (6-oz.) can pickled j alapeno chiles, drained, sl iced

2 t ablespoons vegetable oi l 2 oz. chorizo 1 /4 medi u m onion , chopped 1 (8-oz . ) can tom ato sauce Pepper

Prepare S teak & Chorizo Filling. Preheat oven to 3 5 0°F ( l 7 5°C ) . Wrap tortillas in foil, making 2 packets and place in oven until warmed and softened , about 1 5 m i n utes. Place about 2 tables­ poons filling in center of each warmed tortilla. Fold in half and fasten with wooden picks. Pou r oil ) 1 2 i nch deep into a large skillet. H eat to 365°F (I 85 °C ) . Fry filled tacos in hot oil until crisp. Drain over skillet or on paper towels. Remove wooden picks. Serve lettuce, cheese, to matoes and chiles i n se parate bowls to add to tacos as desired. Makes ) 6 to 20 tacos. S teak & Chorizo Filling : Place steak i n a large saucepa n. Cover with water� add salt to taste. Bring to a boil� reduce heat. Cover and simmer u ntil tender, about 1 hour. Let cool in broth; drain. Cut meat across the grain into ) - I /2-inch long pieces. Shred with 2 forks. Peel potato . Cook in boiling salted water until tender but not mushy, abo u t 2 0 m inutes. D rain and cool. Grate cold potato on a coarse grater. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet. Add sh redded cooked meat. Cook and stir 3 m i nutes. Remove meat fro m skillet. Remove chorizo from casing. Cook in skillet until cru mbly. Add onion to chorizo. Cook until onion is tender, stirring occasionally. Add cooked steak . Stir to blend with chorizo mi xture. Stir in grated potato and to mato sauce. Season with pepper to taste. S i m mer 5 m i n u tes, stirring occasionally. Makes about 3 cups.

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Tort i l la Dishes

Taquitos Little Tacos

Taquitos cut in half and served with guacamole for dipping make delightful appetizers.

About 1 - 1 /4 cups Steak & C horizo Filling for Tacos de M anuel, p age 89 16 to 2 0 corn tortillas

Oil for frying Guacamole, page 40

Prepare S teak & Chorizo Filling. Preheat o ve n t o 3 50°F (I 7 5 °C) . Wrap tortillas in foil, making 2 packets. Place i n oven u ntil softened, abo u t 1 5 m in utes. Place 1 tablespoon filling i n a narrow strip at one end o f each tortilla. Roll up tightly; fasten i n center with a wooden pick . Pour oil 1 12 i nch deep into a medium skillet. Heat to 3 65 °F ( I 8 5 °C) . Fry several taquitos at a time until crisp. D rain over skillet o r on paper towels. Remove wooden picks. To freeze, refrigerate taquitos about 1 hour immediately after frying. Wrap 1 0 chilled taquitos at a time i n heavy foil or freezer wrap; store in freezer. Use within 2 m o nths. To serve frozen taquitos, remove fro m freezer, unwrap and place i n a baking dish . Cover lightly with foil and bake in a preheated 3 50°F ( I 7 5 °C) oven 20 to 30 m i nutes u ntil heated through. Prepare G uacamole. Serve taqu itos to pped with G uacamole. Makes 1 6 to 20 taquitos.

HOW TO MAK E & FILL TA CO SHELLS No special equipment is needed to make taco shells. Y o u can buy devices to ho ld tortillas i n shape while being fried a n d racks to hold them while being stuffed, but they are not necessary . To make taco shells , heat 1 12 cup of lard or vegetable o i l i n a large skillet to 3 65 °F ( I 8 5 °C) . D i p a flat corn tortilla i n the ho t lard or oil o n both sides t o soften it. H olding i t with tongs, fold the softened tortilla i n h alf and fry i t u ntil crisp, turn­ in g o nce. D rain taco shells o n paper towels. To fill a taco shell, gen tly pull i t o pe n without breaking i t so you can drop i n a large spoonful o f

90

meat, beans or o t h e r filling. T o p the fi lling wit h garnishes such a s onion, lettuce a n d tomato . You can fry tacos after they are fi lled . Heat each tortilla on a griddle u n til softened or wrap a stack o f tortillas i n foil and place them in an oven prehe­ ated to 3 50°F ( I 7 5 °C) for about 1 5 minutes. Place a spoonfu l of filling on each warmed tortilla and fold in half. Fasten securely with wooden picks. Fry a few tacos at a time in hot oil u ntil they are crisp, turning as n ecessary. D rain tacos o n paper towels. Before serving, remove the wooden picks and add garnishes.

Tort i l la D ishes

Tacos de PolIo

Photo o n pages 8 6 and 8 7 .

Chicken Tacos

Try these after the holidays with leftover turkey.

1 garlic clove 1 /2 teaspoon s alt 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 onion , chopped 1 or 2 tomatoe s , peeled , chopped 1 or 2 C aliforn i a chiles , roasted , peeled , chopped , or 2 to 4 tablespoons canned chopped green chiles

Pi nch pepper 1 /8 teaspoon grou nd cumin 3-1/2 to 4 cups shredded cooked chicken 12 to 1 5 homemade or packaged t aco s hells 1/2 small head lettuce, shredded 5 oz. Longhorn cheese, shredded 0 - 1 /4 cups) D airy sour cream

Mash garlic with salt to make a paste. Heat oil in a large skillet. Add onion and garlic paste. Cook un ti l o n i on is tender. Add tomatoes, chiles, pepper and cum i n . Stir i n chicke n . Cook and stir un til m ixture i s fai rly dry. Taste and add more salt and cumin, i f desired. Fill t aco shells with chicken m ixture. Serve lettuce , cheese and sour cream i n separate bowls t o add to tacos as desired . M akes 12 to 15 tacos.

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HOW TO MAKE TAMALES Tamales are surprisingly easy to m ake . With a sim ple basic dough such as Masa Para Tamales (Tamale D ough ) , page 94, you can make any type o f tamale , large or small, flavored o r plai n , sweet or savory. Plain u n flavored tamales are often served as a bread substitute. You m ay be able to buy masa especially pre­ pared for tamales in your area, but the recipes in this book call for dried i nstant masa which is widely available. A lthough tamale dough is tradi­ tionally made with lard, you can use vegetable shortening i f you prefer. Corn Husks - Place the hojas, o r dried corn husks, i n a dishpan , sink o r bucket and cover them with hot water. Let them stand 1 hour or longer until they are softened. Just befo re using, rinse each corn husk separately and remove any silk. D rain them well and pat with paper towels to remove excess water. I f the husks are too wide for the size tamale you want, tear off 1 side. If the husks are too narrow, overlap 2 husks to make a wide one. I f dried corn husks aren' t available , use a 9 " x 7 " piece o f foil for each tamale, see How To Prepare Tamales i n Foil, page 94. Filling & Folding - To fill tamales, place a soaked, drained and dried corn husk in the palm of your h an d , point toward you. Place a spoonfu l of dough i n t h e center a n d spread i t slightly. Leave a 1 /2-inch m argin around the edge of the dough t o allow for folding the husk. Place a little filling o n the dough and spread i t sligh tly with your fi ngers. Fold the sides o f the husk to the center, enclosing the filling completely. Some cooks like to spread a little m ore dough over the filling before folding i n the sides o f the corn husk. After you have fo lded i n the sides o f the corn husk , fold the pointed end u nder, keeping the seam o n the outside. A t this poin t , you can stand the tamales on their folded ends i n the steamer with the open ends up.

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An other method of closing the tamales is to fold the wide end over the pointed end and tie each tamale with string around the center to secure the ends. For a primitive effect , tear a soaked corn husk into thin strips and use the strips as ties. A third method is t o tie both ends o f the tamales i nstead o f folding them , leaving some space i n each tamale for the d ough to expand as it steam s. Cooking Tam ales - You'll n e e d a large pot with a rack high enough to keep the tamales above water. Racks for steaming vegetables work well. I f y o u i m provise a rac k, you m a y have to pad i t with extra corn husks or cru mpled foil so the tamales will be well above the water level. After you pour water into the pot, stand the tamales upright on the rack. I f they are open at one end, cover them with more husks or foil to prevent water from dripping i n . Bri ng the water to a boil, cover the pot and steam 1 hour or until the tamale dough pulls away easily from the husk. To test, remove 1 tamale with tongs and ope n i t carefully. Keep in mind t hat the steam from t he tamale will be extremely hot ! Be sure the water does not boil away while the tamales are cooking. Add more water as needed . Storing & Reheating - Wrap leftover tamales i n foi l a n d store them i n t h e refrigerator for n o longer t h a n 3 or 4 days. If they are wrapped securely, they can be frozen. Thaw frozen tamales at roo m temperatu re before reheati ng. Wrap them in foi l and warm in an o ven preheated to 3 5 0°F ( 1 7 5°C ) . You can also steam them again , following t h e method discussed above. To reheat tamales i n a m icrowave oven, wrap them in waxed paper and microwave u ntil they feel soft and hot. If t hey overcook, the dough will be tough.

B eat lard or shortening into dough until light and fluffy.

How To Make Tamales

Top filling w ith more masa, if desired. Fold sides over filling, turn end u nder, keeping seam on outside.

Stand tama les o n a rack in a stea mer. Stand on folded ends with open ends up.

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Tort i l l a Dishes

Masa para Tamales Ta male Dough

With this dough and the recipes on the following pages, you can make a variety of tamales.

2 cups instant masa 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 /2 teaspoon s alt

1 - 1 /4 cups l ukewarm broth or water 2/3 cup l ard or vegetable shortening

Combine i nstant masa, baking powder and salt in a medium bowl. Work i n broth or water with your fingers to make a soft moist dough. In a small bowl, beat lard or shortening u ntil fluffy. Add to masa and beat until dough has a spo ngy texture. Place a cu pful of water nearby. Continue to beat dough u ntil a small piece placed o n the surface of water in the cup floats. Prepare tamales with desired filling. Makes enough dough for abo u t 1 6 small tamales.

Masa Fresca Para Tamales Fresh Ta male Dough

This version is closest to the fresh masa purchased in Mexican markets.

2 ( I -lb. 13-oz.) cans w h ite hominy (6 cups) 1 cup frozen w hole-kernel corn , t h awed

1/4 lb. l ard 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon bak i ng powder

Grind h o m i ny and corn a l ittle a t a time in a food grinder or food processor. Whip lard, salt and baking powder until fluffy. Beat lard mixture into h o m i ny m i xture. Use t o make tamales. Makes enough dough for 1 6 small tamales.

HOW TO PREPARE TAMALES IN FOIL Place masa and filling just above the cen ter of a 9" x T ' piece of foil. Fold foil i n half, enclosing masa and filling com pletely. Fold edges twice to make a secure seal. S tand tamale folded-edge

down on a rack over water in a large pot. Cover the pot and steam for 1 hour or until the dough pulls away easily from the foil.

rcareJeJC§JGaJeJeJEileJeJeJE!J§1eJ®C§JeJeJeJC§JGaJeJeJt21eJeJeJE!J§1eJ®c=;). 94

Tort i l la Dishes

Ta m a les de Puerco Pork Tama les Prepare the filling a day in advance for these mildly seasoned tamales.

1 lb. pork butt 2-1/2 cups water 1 /4 medi u m onion 1 garlic clove 1 bay leaf S alt

8 peppercorns 2/3 cup Salsa para Ench iladas, page 37 Corn husks or foil wrapping for 1 6 tamales Masa para Tamales prepared with warm pork broth , page 94

A day in advance , trim fat from m eat. Cut meat in chu nks and place in a large saucepan . Add water, onion , garlic, bay leaf, salt to taste and peppercorn s. Bring to a boil. S kim foam from sur­ face; reduce heat . Cover and simmer 1 hour. Prepare Salsa para Enchiladas. D rain meat , reserv­ i ng 1 - 1 /4 cups broth for tamale dough . With 2 forks, shred meat and mix with salsa . Refrigerate meat m i x ture and reserved broth overnight. Prepare foil wrapping or soak corn husks 1 hour in hot wate r . Soak a few additional husks to cover tamales. R inse and pat dry with paper towels. Pre­ pare M asa para Tamales with warm pork broth. Hold each corn husk with point toward you. Place a rounded tablespoon fu l of dough at large end of husk . Spread with fingers. Place 1 tablespoon pork filling o n dough. Top with another tablespoon of dough ; spread to cover filling. Fold sides of h us k over tamale. Fold pointed end of corn husk under with seam on outside. Stand tamales on folded ends on a rack o ver water in a large pot. Cover with additional husks or foil. Bring water to a boil; reduce heat. Cover and steam 1 hour or until dough pulls away easily from husk. Makes 1 6 tamales.

Tam ales de Queso y Ch ile Cheese & C h i le Tama les

' Savory tamales can take the pla ce of rice or bread.

Corn husks or foil wrapping for 1 6 tamales M as a para Tamales prepared with warm ch icken broth , page 94 6 oz. M onterey Jack cheese, cut in 16 cubes

4 California ch iles, roa sted , peeled , cut in strips, or 1 (4-oz.) can chopped green chi les

Prepare foi l wrapping or soak corn husks 1 hour in hot water. Soak a few additional h usks to cover tamales. R i nse and pat dry with paper towels. Prepare Masa para Tamales with warm chicken broth . H old each corn h usk with point toward you. Place I tablespoon dough at large end of husk. S pread with fingers. Place 1 cheese cube and a few chile strips or cho pped chiles i n center of dough . Top with another tablespoon dough� spread to cover filling. Fold sides of husk over tamale. Fold pointed end o f corn h usk under with seam on outside. Stand tamales on fo lded ends on rack over water in a large pot. Cover with add itional husks or foil. Bring water to a boil� red uce heat. Cover and steam 1 hour or until dough pulls away easily fro m husk. M akes 1 6 tamales.

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Tort i l l a Dishes

Ta m a les d e P ina Pi nea pple Tama les

Sweet fruit tamales are a breakfast treat as well as a dessert.

Corn husks or foil wrapping for 1 8 t am ales 1 (8-3/4-oz . ) can crushed pi neapple i n u nsweetened pineapple j u ice Water Masa para Tamales , page 94, prepared with w armed reserved pineapple j u ice and water

1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar 1 cup diced candied pineapple, cut in small pieces

Prepare foil wrapping or soak corn husks 1 hour in hot water. S oa k a few additional h u sks t o cover tamales. R i ns e and p a t d ry w i th paper towels. D rain pineapple thoroughly, reserving j uice. Add water to ju ice to make 1 - 1 /4 cups. Prepare Masa para Tamales, using warm ju ice mixture as liquid. When dough floats in water, beat in brown sugar, then drained pineapple. Hold each corn husk with point toward you. Place a rounded tablespoonfu l o f dough at large end of husk. Spread with fingers. Add several pieces of candied pineapple and top with another tablespoon dough ; spread to cover filling. Fold sides of h u sk over tamale. Fold pointed end of corn husk u nder with seam o n outside. Stand tamales o n folded ends o n a rack over water i n a large pot. Cover with additional husks o r foil. Bring water to a boil ; reduce heat. Cover and steam 1 hour or u ntil. dough pulls away easily fro m husk. Makes 1 8 tamales.

Tam ales Dulces Sweet Tamales

These tamales don 't have to be covered with corn husks while they are steaming.

Corn husks or foil wrapping for 1 6 or 1 7 tamales 1/2 cup lard or vegetable shortening 1 /4 cup sugar 1 - 1 / 2 cups instant masa 1 /4 teaspoon salt

1 cup water 1 /2 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 cu p fi nely diced citron 1 /2 cup raisins 1 /2 cup slivered almonds

Prepare foil wrapping o r soak corn husks 1 hour i n hot water. Beat lard or shortening i n a medium bowl until fluffy. Beat in sugar u ntil smooth and creamy. In another medium bowl, com­ bine instant masa, salt and water. S tir u n til blended into a very soft dough . Place a cupful o f water n earby. Add masa mixture to lard m i x ture. Beat dough u n til a small piece placed on the surface of the water in the cup floats. Beat i n baking powder. Hold each corn husk with point toward you. Place a tablespoo nfu l o f dough i n center of each corn husk. S pread with your fingers. Top with a few pieces of citron , a few raisins and a few almonds. Fold sides of husk over filling. Fold pointed end o f husk to center; fold top end over point. Tie each tamale arou n d the center t o h old ends in place. S tand tamales o n folded ends o n a rack over water i n a large pot. Bring water t o a boil; reduce heat. Cover and steam 1 hour o r u n til dough pulls away easily from husk or foil. Makes 1 6 or 1 7 tamales.

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B URRI TOS Burritos are made by wrappi ng a filling such as refried beans or a beef and bean m i xture i n a large flour tortilla. They are usually held like a sandwich and eaten plain, but are occasionally topped with sauce . Usually 1 2-inch flour tortillas are used but smaller 8-inch tortillas may also be used with less filling. Appetizer burritos require very little filling i n 6-inch tortillas. Dessert burritos are fi lled with canned or fresh

fru it - strawberries are especially popular -and d e e p - fried u n til crisp , t h e n spri n k led w i t h powdered sugar or topped w i t h whipped cream. Deep-fried burritos called chimichangas are a specialty of southern Arizona. They are made with paper-thin flour tortillas and filled with beans or a chicken or meat mi xture. Del ightfully crisp and flaky, t hey are served plain or topped with salsa, guacamole or sour cream .

B urritos Burritos

Chile Verde a la Fay, . page 1 1 0, or Machaca, page 88, can be substitllled for Carnitas a la Casera.

Carnitas a la Casera, page 1 1 5 1 / 2 cup Gu acamole, page 40, or 1 avocado, sliced 4 {t2-inch} flour tortillas

3/4 cup canned or homemade refried bean s , heated 1 cu p shredded lettuce 1/4 cup homem ade or can ned salsa

Prepare Carnitas a la Casera and Guacamole. For each burrito , heat a torti lla on a large ungreased griddle u ntil hot and pliable but not dry. Place about 1 12 cup m eat filling a little below center. Add about 3 tablespoons refried beans, a little shredded lettuce and about 2 tablespoons Guacamole or an avocado slice . Top with about 1 tablespoon salsa . Fold sides of torti lla over filling to center. Fold bottom o ver filling and roll up, enclosing filling com pletely. Repeat with remaining ingre­ dients. Serve immediately or burritos will be soggy. Makes 4 servings. Variation Dessert Burritos : Substitute frozen strawberries or apple pie filling for fi lling listed above . Heat 1 12 i nch oil in a large skillet to 365°F ( I 85 °C) . Fry burritos u ntil golden brown .

Burritos d e Chiles Rellenos Stuffed C h i le Burritos

R eheat stuffed chiles in fOil in a 350 °F (J 75 °C) o ven for J 5 minutes.

4 Chiles Rellenos de Queso, page 66 4 large {t 2-inch} flour tortillas

1 / 2 cup can ned or homemade refried beans, heated

Prepare Chiles Rellenos de Queso . Remove stems if made with whole fresh chiles. H eat each tor­ tilla on an u ngreased griddle until softe ned. Spread 2 tablespoons refried beans across tortilla about halfway between center and bottom. Place 1 stu ffed chile on top of beans. Fold sides of tor­ tilla over fi lling to center. Fold bottom o ver filling� roll up. Top each burrito with hot tomato sauce. M akes 4 servings. 97

Torti lIa Dishes

Tostadas de Carne Meat T ostadas

My friend Da ve eats these after dinner and considers them dessert.

2 cups Carnitas a la Casera, page 1 1 5 Salsa J itom ate d e Elva, page 3 9 O i l for frying

4 corn tortillas 4 oz. finely shredded Monterey Jack cheese (t cup)

Prepare Carnitas a la Casera and Salsa Jitomate de Elva. Heat oil i n a medium skillet. Fry tortillas in hot oil u ntil crisp and l ightly browned. D rain over skillet or on paper towels. Top each with 1 12 cup meat mi x ture, 1 14 cup cheese and a large spoonful of salsa. M akes 4 servings.

Ch ilaqu iles con Salsa Verde Torti l l a Strips with G reen Chile Sa uce

Do not mix chicken, sauce and tortilla chips in advance or chips will become too soft.

1 whole chicken breast 2-1/2 cups water 1/4 small onion 1 bay leaf Salt 4 peppercorns 1 lb. fresh tomatillos or 1 -3/4 cups drained canned tomatillos 1 j a lapeno chile or other small hot chile Water 1 small onion, coarsel y chopped

1 garlic clove 1 /4 cup fresh cilantro leaves , loosely packed 1/2 teaspoon salt Oil for frying 8 corn tortillas 1 / 2 cup dai ry sour cream, room temperature 4 oz. Monterey Jack cheese, s hredded (t cup) Cilantro sprigs

Place chicken breast in a medium saucepan. Add 2- 1 /2 cups water, 1 14 onion, bay leaf, salt to taste and peppercorns. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Cover and simmer u ntil chicken is tender, about 45 minutes. Cool chicken in broth. Drain, reserving broth. Shred m eat with 2 forks or with your fingers; set aside . Remove papery husks fro m tomatillos. Remove stem and seeds of chile . Wash fresh tomatillos and chile and place i n a medium saucepan . Add water almost to cover. Bring to a boil� reduce heat. Cover and simmer 1 0 m i nu tes� drain. D o not cook canned tomatillos. Place cooked or canned tomatillos, chile, chopped onion, garlic and cilantro in blender or food processor and process until pureed . Pour i n to same saucepan. Add 2 cups reserved chicken broth and 1 12 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Simmer gently u ncovered 30 mi nu tes. Keep sauce hot. Pour oil 1 14 i nch deep i n to a medium skillet. H eat to 3 65 ° F (I 8 5 °C ) . With k i tchen scissors, cut tortillas into 1 - 1 12 " x l " strips. Fry tortilla strips in hot oil until crisp and lightly browned. D rain on paper towels. Arrange fried tortilla strips in a large shallow baking dish. Add shredded chicken at room tem perature ; mix. Pour sauce over tortilla strips and chicken . Place sour cream i n a flat mound in center o f m i x ture. Cover with shredded cheese. Place baking dish u nder broiler until cheese is m elted and bub bly and ingredients are heated through . Garnish with cilantro sprigs; serve immediately. Makes 6 servings.

98

Torti lla Dishes

Tostadas Tostadas

To make tostadas, stack beans, meat and garnishes on a criSp fried tortilla.

2 cups finely s hredded Carnitas a la Casera, page 1 1 5 1 /3 to 1 / 2 cup Salsa Jitomate de Elva, page 39 3/4 cu p Guacamole, page 40

Oil for frying 6 corn tortillas 3/4 cup can ned or homemade refried bea ns 2 cu ps finely shredded lettuce 1/2 cup dairy sou r cream

Prepare Carnitas a la Casera, Salsa Jitomate de Elva and Guacamole. Pour oil 1 14 inch deep into a mediu m skillet. H eat to 3 65 °F ( l 8 5°C) . Fry each tortilla on both sides until browned and crisp. Drain o ver s ki llet or on paper towels. S pread each tortilla with refried beans� top with about 1 13 cup Carnitas a la Casera. Add a layer of lettuce, a large spoonful of Guacamole and a spoonful of sour cream . Top with Salsa Jitomate de Elva. M akes 6 servings. Variation

S ubstitute shredded chicken or beef for Carnitas a la Casera.

How To Make Chilaq uiles con Salsa Verde

Remove outer husk from tomatillos before using.

Cut corn torti llas into 1 - 1 / 2" x 1 " strips before frying in hot oil.

Tort i l l a Dishes

Panuchos Merida

Photo o n pages 1 2 2 a n d 1 2 3 .

Pa n uchos Me r ida - Sty l e

Merida Intemacional Cafe makes this version of Yucatan bean-stuffed tortillas.

1 cup shredded cooked chicken 2/3 cu p Frij oles R efritos made with black beans, page 1 49, heated 1 /3 cup Cebollas Yucatecas, page 39 1 cu p instant masa

1 /2 cu p w ater Oil for frying 1 tomato, chopped 3 or 4 canned pickled j alapeno chiles , cut in slivers

Prepare chicken , Frij oles Refritos and Cebol las Yucatecas. Mix i nstant masa and water with your fingers i n a small bowl. Add a little more water if needed to make a smooth do ugh . Line bottom of tortilla press with plastic wrap. D ivide dough into thirds. D ivide each t hird into 4 equal parts, mak ing 1 2 small pieces in all. Preheat an ungreased griddle over medium-h igh heat . Shape each piece of d ough into a ball. Place on tortilla press. Place another piece of plastic wrap on top of dough . Press with the palm of your hand to flatten slightly. Close tortilla press fi rmly, then open . Tortilla should be about 4 inches in diameter. Remove plastic from both sides of tortilla. Bake tortillas on hot griddle until each side is l igh tly spotted with brown but tortilla is still pliable. D o not o verbake . S tack a n d cover cooked tortillas with a dry cloth towel t o prevent them from dry­ ing. J ust befo re serving, pour oil 1 14 inch deep into a medium skillet . Heat to 3 65 ° F ( I 8 5°C) . Fry tortillas in hot oil u n til l ightly browned and crisp. D rain over skillet or on paper towels. To serve, spread each tortilla with hot beans and top with sh redded chicken , tomat o, chile slivers and Cebollas Yucatecas . Serve immediately. M akes 1 2 pan uchos.

Panuchos Campeche Panuchos Ca m peche-Style

Sandwich -style panuchos are made in the market of Campeche.

1 /4 cup Frijoles Refritos made with bl ack beans , page 1 49 Cebollas Yucatecas, page 39 1 cup instant masa 1 /2 cup water

1 /2 cup finely shredded cooked chicken Oil for frying 1 tom ato, chopped 2 or 3 pickled jalapeno chiles, cut in slivers

Prepare Frijoles Refritos and Cebollas Yucatecas. M i x i nstant masa and water with your fingers in a small bowl. Add a l ittle more water if needed to make a smooth dough . Line bottom of tortilla press with plastic wrap. D ivide dough into quarters� divide each quarter into 5 equal parts, mak­ ing 20 pieces i n all. Shape each piece into a ball. Place o n tortilla press. Place another piece of plastic wrap o n top of dough . Press with the palm of your hand to flatten ball slightly. Close tor­ tilla press firmly, then open. Tortilla should be abou t 3 inches in diameter. R e move plastic fro m both sides of tortilla. Place tortillas on a flat surface . Spread 1 teaspoon beans on t h e middle of each tortilla. Top with 1 or 2 tiny shreds of ch icken. Cover with another torti lla and press edges with your fingers or a fork to seal. Keep u ncoo ked panuchos cove red with a dry cloth towel to prevent them from drying. I f dough becomes dry and crumbly, add a few drops of water. Pour oil 1 14 i nch deep into a medium skillet. Heat to 365°F (I 8 5 °C) . Fry pan uchos in hot oil on both sides until crisp. Drain on paper towels. To serve, top with tomato , chile slivers and Cebollas Yucatecas. Serve i m mediately. Makes 1 0 panuchos.

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Tortilla D ishes

Sopes de Marla Elena Mary E l len's S o pes

Sopes, also called gorditas, are lillie fried masa cups filled with beans and garnishes.

Frij oles con Chorizo, page 1 5 2 , heated Salsa Mexicana, page 33 Guacamole, page 40 1 - 1 /2 cups instant masa 3/4 cu p w ater Oil for frying

8 oz . Cheddar cheese, shredded (2 cups) 1 /2 head iceberg lettuce, fi nely shredded 6 radishes , thinly sl iced Dairy sour cream

Prepare Frij oles con Chorizo , Salsa Mexicana and Guacamole. M i x instant masa and water with your fingers in a small bowl. Add a l ittle more water if needed to make a smooth dough. Line bot­ tom o f tortilla press with plastic wrap. Preheat an ungreased griddle over medium-high heat. Shape dough i n to 1 6 to 18 balls about I inch in diameter or slightly larger. Place I ball at a time on tortilla press. Place another piece of plastic wrap on top of dough . Press with the palm of yo ur hand to flatten slightly . Close tortilla press firmly and then open . Tortilla should be abo ut 3 - 1 /2 inches in diameter. Peel plastic from top and bottom of t ortilla. Bake tortillas one at a time on hot griddle 10 seconds o n each side� do not overbake. Remove fro m griddle and i m mediately fold up edges, pressing and pinch ing to form a fi r m rim 1 /3 to 1 12 inch high . Use a cloth towel if tortilla is too hot. Return to griddle and bake o n bottom 1 min ute. Just befo re serving, pou r oil 1 14 i nch deep i n to a medium skillet. Heat to 3 6soF ( I 8 S 0C) . Fry each sope base on both sides u n til lightly browned and crisp. D rain on paper towels. Fill with a spoonful of hot Frijoles con Chorizo. Add some of the cheese, lett uce and radish slices. Top with a spoonful of Salsa Mexicana, a spoonful of G uacamole and a l ittle sour cream . Serve immed iately. Mak es 16 to 1 8 sopes.

Quesadilla con Guaca mole Cheese Crisp with Avocado Sauce

Flour tortillas folded o ver a cheese filling are especially popular with youngsters.

Guacamole, page 40 1 (8-inch) flour tortilla 2 oz. C heddar or Longhorn cheese, s h redded (1/2 cup) 2 t ablespoons chopped tomato

1 tablespoon chopped green onion 1 - 1 /2 teaspoons chopped cilantro leaves Homemade or can ned hot salsa, if desi red 2 or 3 tomato wedges 1 ripe olive

Prepare Guacamole. Preheat oven to 3 S0°F (I 7 SOC ) . Sprin kle one half of the torti lla with cheese . Add chopped tomato and onion. Top with cilantro and hot salsa , if desired. Fo ld uncove red half of tortilla over toppings. Place on a baking sheet. Bake until cheese is melted . Cut into pie-shaped wedges. Arrange in a fan pattern on a round plate with a mound of Guacamole in the center. Gar­ n ish Guacamole with tomato wedges and an olive. Makes 1 serving.

101

Tort i l l a Dishes

Garnachas Open- Face Snacks

Beans adhere better to a chilled tortilla, so refrigerate baked tortillas o vernight.

1 cup i nstant masa 1 / 2 cu p water Frij oles Refritos made with black beans, page 149 Salsa Roj a for P icadas , page 1 0 3 , Salsa Verde for P icadas, page 1 03, heated 3 medium boi ling potatoes

Boiling salted water Milk Oil for frying 1 small onion, s liced, cut into slivers 12 oz. queso fresco, or farmer cheese, crumbled, or 6 oz. Monterey J ack cheese, sh redded (1 - 1 /2 cups)

The day before, mix instant masa and water with you r fingers i n a small bowl . Add more water if n eeded to make a smooth dough. Line bottom of tortilla press with plastic wrap. Preheat an u ngreased griddle over medium heat. D iv ide dough i n to 1 2 pieces. Shape each piece into a ball. Place o n tortilla press. Place another p iece of plastic wrap o n top of dough . Press with the pa lm of your hand to flatten slightly. Close tortilla press firmly and then open. Tortilla should be about 4 i nches in d iameter. Peel plastic from top and bottom of tortilla. Bake on hot griddle until each side i s lightly spotted with brown . Wrap tortillas and refrigerate o vernight. Prepare Frijoles Refritos and salsas. The next day, peel potatoes and cook i n boiling salted water until tender, abou t 3 0 minutes. Drain , peel and mash potatoes. Beat i n a little m ilk to hold potatoes together. Just before serving, pour oil 1 /4 inch deep into a large skillet. Heat to 3 6 5 °F ( I 8 5°C) . Spread each garnacha base with beans and top with mashed potato. Fry potato-side u p in hot oil until garnacha bases are browned, splashing a l ittle oil onto tops. D rain on paper towels. Top with Salsa Roja or Salsa Verde, a few onion slivers and a l ittle cheese. M akes 1 2 garnachas.

Quesadilla del Mercado Cheese Crisp Market-Style

Sandwiches don 't have to be made with bread!

1 oz. Monterey Jack cheese, shredded (1/4 cup) 2 corn tortillas 2 thin slices tomato

1 thin onion s lice 1 /4 cu p finely shredded lettuce H omem ade or canned hot salsa 1 s lice avocado

Preheat a lightly greased griddle o ver medium-h igh heat. Sprinkle cheese on a tortilla and top with another tortilla. Cook on each side on hot griddle u n til tortillas are hot and cheese is melted. Place o n a plate . Lift u p top tortilla. Place tomato slices, o nion , lettuce , salsa and avocado inside . Replace top; serve immed iately. Makes 1 serving.

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Tort i l la D ishes

Picadas Filled Tortilla Cups In Veracruz, picadas are served as snacks with fruit and a soft drink.

Salsa Roj a , see below Sal s a Verde, see below 1 cup instant masa 1/2 cup water Oil for frying 1 small on ion , s liced , cut into slivers Salsa Roja (Red Sauce) : 1 or 2 serrano chiles or other small hot chiles 2 sm all tom atoes (1/2 l b . ) 1 small garlic clove Salsa Verde (Green Sauce) : 3 or 4 serrano chi les or other small hot chiles 1/2 lb. tomatillos or 3/4 cup canned tomatillos, drained 1/2 sm all onion

4 oz. queso fresco or farmer cheese, crumbled, or 2 oz. Monterey Jack cheese, shredded (1/2 cup) 1/2 cup chopped cil antro leaves , if desired

1 /4 small onion 1 teaspoon vegetable oil Salt

1 l arge garlic clove 1 /2 cup loosely packed chopped cil antro leaves with some sprigs 1 teaspoon vegetable oil Salt

Prepare Salsa Roja and Salsa Verde; keep warm . M i x masa and water with your fingers in a small bowl. Add a little more water if needed to make a smooth dough. Line bottom of tortilla press with plastic wrap. Preheat an u ngreased griddle over medium -high heat. Divide dough into 8 pieces. S hape each piece into a ball. Place on tortilla press. Place another piece of plastic wrap o n t o p o f dough . Press w i t h t h e palm of y o u r hand to flatten slightly. Close tortilla press firmly and then open . Peel plastic from top and bottom of tortilla. Bake picada bases one at a time on hot griddle 1 0 seconds on each side or until partially cooked but not dry. Remove from griddle and imm ediately fold up edges, pressing and pinching to form a firm rim 1 13 to 1 /2 inch high. Use a cloth towel if tortilla is too hot. Pour oil 1 /4-i nch deep in a medium skillet. Heat to 365°F ( I 8 S0C) . Fry picada bases on both sides until lightly browned and crisp. Drain on paper towels. Fill picadas with Salsa R oja or Salsa Verde. Add a few onion shreds and I tablespoon cheese. Gar­ nish with cilantro, if desired. Serve immed iately. Makes 8 picadas. Salsa Roj a (Red Sauce) : Roast chi les on griddle over medium heat until blistered on all sides. Cut off stems but do not peel. Cut to matoes in half and cut out stem portions. Place roasted chiles , halved tomatoes, garlic and onion in blender or food processor and process u ntil pureed . Heat oil in a small saucepan over moderate heat. Add chile mi xture. Bring to a boil. Add salt to taste. Makes abo u t I cu p. Salsa Verde (G reen Sauce) : Roast chiles on griddle over medium heat until blistered on all sides. Cut off stems but do not peel. Remove papery husks from fresh tomatillos; wash. Cut tomatillos in half. Place roasted chiles, halved tomatillos or drained cann ed tomatillos, onion, garlic and cilantro in blender or food processor and process until pureed. Heat oil in a small saucepan over moderate heat . Add chile mixture. Bring to a boil. Add salt to taste. Makes about I cu p.

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" Carnes y Aves Meats The Aztecs were eating flavorful moles- pro­ nounced moh-Iays- when the S paniards arrived i n the 1 6th centu ry. The most famous mole was developed in the convent of Santa R osa in Puebla toward the end of the 1 7th century i n honor of a visiting viceroy. After spending days in Puebla sampling different versions o f the dish, visiting the k i tchen of the convent and exam i n i ng o ld recipes , I was able to duplicate authentic choco­ late-colored Mole Poblano (Mole Puebla-Style). It is complicated to make but the flavor is e xtraor­ di nary . Just as sumptuous as Mole Poblano (Mole Puebla-Style) but much easier to prepare is Pa vo en Relleno Blanco (Tu rkey with White Stuffing) . It's stuffed with a m ixture of grou nd pork, almonds, o lives, capers and raisins. S erve it with two sauces : a white sauce containing virtually no fat and a tomato sauce flavored with the same ingreditmts as the pork stuffing. Although this version is made with a turkey breast , you could try it with a whole turkey for a large gathering. Carne asada, or grilled steak , is popular throughout M ex ico. The recipe for Carne A sada Tampiquefia (Grilled S teak Tam pico-Style) comes from the EI Conquistador H otel i n Tijuana.

& Pou ltry

When a fiesta is about to take place , your host may b utcher a hog. Chunks of pork are deep-fried in big copper cau ldrons to make Carnitas a la Casera (Home-Style Meats) . These are eaten plain or shredded for tacos and tostadas. The pig's skin is fried to make chicharrones, a crisp snack to enjoy with beer. This same pig also yields lard, Mexico's trad itional cooking agent. Hom e-ren­ dered lard is exceptio nally tasty and m ust be used to give certain d ishes their proper flavor. Nuts and seeds contribute subtle flavors to many m eat and chicken dishes. Ground squash seeds flavor Mole Verde de Puerco (Green Mole with Pork ) , a Oaxacan recipe. Ground sesame seeds are added to Mole Colorado de Oaxaca (Oaxacan Red Mole) . S quash seeds and sesame seeds enhance Polio en Pipian (Chicken in S quash Seed Sauce) . Almonds and sesame seeds go into Mole Poblano (Mole Puebla-Style) . I n the southwestern U nited S tates, m eat dishes such as Chile Verde a la Fay (Green Chile Stew) , Chile Colorado con Carne (Red Chile with Meat) and Bistec Picado (Steak S trips with Vegetables) are often used as filling for tacos, burritos and sandwiches.

,

Y U CATAN F I E STA Panuchos Merida (Panuchos Merida-Style) Sopa de Lima (Lime & Tortilla Soup) Pavo en Relleno Blanco (Turkey with White Stuffing) Arroz Guisado (Seasoned Rice) Ensalada M ixta {]xmal (Uxmal M ixed Salad) Torta de Cielo (Heavenly Torte)

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1 00 45

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1 46 56 1 80

Meats [, Poultry

Carne Asada a la Tam piquefia Gril led Steak Ta m pico- Style

Begin this full-course meal one or two days in advance.

2 garlic cloves 1 cup vegetable oil 4 (1 0-oz. ) tender steaks such as top si rloin or rib steak 2 teaspoons dried leaf oregano, cru shed Salt and coarsely grou nd pepper Rajas de Chile (Chile Strips) : 2 tablespoons reserved garlic oil 1 large onion, cut length wise, thinly s liced 1 /2 teaspoon d ri ed leaf oregano, cru shed

2 cu ps canned or homemade refried beans Totopos, page 30 4 Enchiladas de Polio en Mole, page 78 Guacamole del Conqu istador, page 40 Raj as de C hile, see below Shredded Monterey Jack or Chedd ar cheese

4 Cal ifornia chiles, roasted , peeled, cu t in long strips, or 4 canned w hole green chiles, cut in strips S alt

Begin 1 or 2 days i n ad vance by lightly crushing garlic cloves and combining with oil in a jar. Cover tightly and let stand to flavor oil. Garlic oil not used in preparing steak and Rajas may be used to refry beans. Several hours before cooking, marinate steaks in 1 /2 cup garlic oil, oregano and salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before cook ing. Prepare refried beans, Totopos, Enchiladas de Polio en Mole, Guacamole del Conquistador and Rajas de Chile. Grill steaks over coals as desired or cook in a very hot skillet greased with garlic oil. For each serving, place 1 steak on a heated platter. Place Rajas de Chile on top or at one side of each steak. Add a serving of refried beans. S prinkle beans with cheese and garnish with a totopo . Add an enchilada and a spoonfu l of guacamole. M akes 4 servings. Raj as de Chile (Chile Strips) : Heat reserved garlic oil in a medium skillet. Add onion. Cook u ntil ten der but not browned. Add oregano and chiles. Cook and stir gently until heated through . Season with salt to taste.

B i stec Picado Steak Strips with Vegetables

Serve these robustly fla vored steak strips with rice or roll them up in flour tortillas.

1 -3/4 lbs. round steak 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 medi u m green pepper, diced 1 small on ion , chopped 1 giiero chile, finel y chopped , or hot pepper sauce to taste

1 large garlic clove, mi nced 1 (8- 1 / 4-oz.) can stewed tom atoes 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon dried leaf oregano ,cru shed Salt and pepper

Cut meat in 1 - 1 12" x 1 14" strips. Heat oil in a large heavy ski llet over high heat. Add meat strips. Cook u ntil browned. R educe heat. Add green pepper, onio n , ch ile or hot pepper sauce and ga rlic. Cook until vegetables are limp. Add tomatoes, Worcestershire sauce , oregano and salt and pep­ per to taste. Cover and simmer 1 hour o r until meat is tender. M a kes 6 servings. 1 05

Meats & Poultry

Carne Asa da G r i l led Steak

Serve steak with beans and rice for a hearty meal or slice it thinly for a taco filling.

1 ( I -lb. 4-oz.) top sirloin steak 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1/2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crushed 1 /2 teaspoon salt

1 /4 teaspoon coarsely grou nd pepper 1 /4 cup orange j u ice 1 tablespoon lime j u ice 2 teaspoons cider vinegar 2 orange slices , cut 1 /2 inch thick

Place steak in a shallow glass baking dish. Rub oil on each side of steak . Sprinkle with oregano, salt and pepper. Sprinkle orange ju ice , l im e j uice and vin egar over steak . Cover and refrigerate overnight for best flavor or several hours, turning occasionally. To coo k , bring meat to room tem perature. Prepare and preheat charcoal grill. D rain meat, reserving marinade. Place steak on grill over hot coals. Top with orange sl ices. Occasionally spoon reserved marinade over steaks as they cook. Grill 3 to 4 m i nutes on each side , or u ntil medium-rare. Cook longer , if desired. Remove orange sl ices to turn steak. Replace orange sl ices on top of stea k. Makes 4 servings.

Chile Colorado con Carne Red Ch i le with Meat

This is the way they make chile in northern Mexico.

2 lbs. beef stew-meat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 -3/4 cu ps water 5 dried California chiles 1 dried New M ex ico chile Water 2 garlic cloves

1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 tablespoon all-pu rpose flour 1 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, cru shed 1 /4 teaspoon ground cu min

Cut meat i n to bite-size pieces. Heat 2 tablespoons oil i n a large heavy skillet or D u tch oven. Add meat. Cook u n til browned. Add water. Cover and simmer 1 hour. While meat is coo king, place both California and New M e x ico chiles in a medium saucepan. Add water to cover generously . Cover and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and let stand until softe ned , 45 m in u tes to 1 hour. Drain chiles. D iscard stems and seeds. Place chiles i n blender with about 1 12 cup cooking broth fro m meat. Blend until pureed . Press puree through a sieve to remove bits of peel. Add sieved puree to meat and broth. M ash garlic with salt to make a paste. Heat 1 tablespoo n oil in a medium sk illet. Add garlic paste and onion. Cook u ntil onion is very tender but not browned. Add flour. Cook and stir 1 m in u te . Add onion mixture, oregano and cum in to meat mixture. Cover and simmer 1 - 1 12 hours. Taste and add more salt i f needed. M akes 4 to 6 servings. Variation

For a hotter dish, substitute as many New Mex ico chiles as desi red for California chiles. If dried whole chiles are not available, substit ute 1 14 to 1 13 cup chili powder.

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Carne A sada

Meats [, Pou ltry

Carne de Res Guisada en Jitom ate Beef Stewed w i t h Tomatoes

Spicy seasonings are typical of the tropical east coast of Mexico.

2 lbs . beef chuck steak or ru m p roast 1 cu p water Salt 4 small tom atoes, peeled (l Ib.) 1 medium onion , quartered 1 large garlic clove 1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 bay leaf 1/4 teaspoon whole allspice 6 peppercorns 1/4 teaspoon sugar 12 to 1 5 pimiento-stuffed green olives 1 teaspoon capers Salt

Cut m eat in 1 " x 1 14" slices. Place i n a large saucepan . Add water and salt to taste. Bring to a boil� reduce h eat . Cover and simmer 1 hour. Combine tomatoes, onion and garlic i n blender or food processor. Blend until pureed . Heat oil in a medium saucepan. Add tomato puree , bay leaf, allspice , peppercorns and sugar. Bring to a boil� red uce h eat. S immer u ncovered 1 5 m i nutes. Add hot tomato puree, olives, capers and salt to taste to beef. Cover and simmer 1 hour. Uncover and simmer 1 /2 hour longer. M akes 4 to 6 servings. Variation

Add 1 large sliced or cu bed cooked potato to meat during last 1 12 hour of cooking time. Add 3/4 cup can ned or frozen peas during last 7 m inutes of cooking.

Picadillo M i nced Meat

Serve this piquant mixture with rice or use it as a filling for Empanadas de Picadillo, page 31.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1/2 lb. grou nd beef 1 /2 lb . ground pork 1 /2 small onion , chopped 1 large garlic clove , m inced 1 medium tomato, peeled , chopped 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

2 t ablespoons chopped blanched almonds 2 t ablespoons rai sins, soaked i n hot water u ntil softened 6 Spanish-style green olives, pitted, chopped 2 teaspoons capers 1 /4 teaspoon salt

Heat oil i n a large skillet. Add beef and pork. Cook u ntil m eat is n o longer pink, stirring to keep cru mbly. Add onion , garlic, tomato, parsley, alm onds, raisi ns, olives and capers. Cook over med ium h eat 8 m inutes, stirri ng frequently. Stir i n salt. Makes 4 servings.

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Meats & Poultry

Bistec a la Maya Steak Maya n- Style

The orange-lemon juice blend is a substitute for the sour orange juice lIsed in Yucatan.

Juice of 1 orange (6 to 8 tablespoon s) 2 t ab lespoons lemon j u ice 1 - 1 /2 lbs. chuck or round steak Salt 2 tab lespoons lard

1/2 medium onion , sl iced 1 garlic clove, minced 1/2 green pepper, cut in strips 2 tom atoes, sl iced Salt

Combine orange and lemon j u ices. Trim fat from meat. Cut meat in thin strips and place on a platter. Sprinkle with half the j u ice m ixture, about 1 14 cup , and salt . Let stand 30 min utes. H eat lard in a large heavy skillet. Add meat. Cook until m eat has browned and liquid has evaporated. Add onion , garlic, green pepper , tomatoes and 2 tablespoons of the reserved juice mi xture. Season with salt to taste . Cover and simmer 45 m inutes or until meat is tender. Makes 4 servings.

Carne Deshebrada

Photo o n pa ges 8 6 a n d 8 7 .

Shredded Meat

Mexican home cooking is simple and always tasty.

1 lb. beef stew-meat 1 - 1 /2 cups water Salt 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1/2 medium onion , thinly sl iced 1 garlic clove, mi nced 4 s m a l l tom atoes, peeled , chopped (1 lb.)

2 medium green peppers , cut i n thin strips (1/2 Ib.) 1 serrano chile or other small hot chile, mi nced , if desired Salt and pepper Cooked white rice

Combine beef, water and salt to taste in a large saucepan . Bring to a boil� red uce heat. Cover and simmer until m eat is tender, about 2 hours. Cool meat in broth . Drain meat, reserving broth . Use 2 forks to shred meat. Heat oil in a large skillet. Add onion and garlic. Cook until tender but not browned . Add tom atoes. Sim mer until tomatoes are cooked, 5 to 1 0 min utes. Stir in green peppers, meat and chile, if desired. Add 1 12 cup broth and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and simmer until green pepper is tender, about 1 5 m i nutes. Serve with rice . Makes 4 servings. Variation

For a drier m ix t ure, red uce quantity of broth or eliminate broth entirely. M i xture may then be used as burrito filling.

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Meats [, Poultry

Salpicon Cold Meat Sa lad

Ifyou can 't find Maggi seasoning, ask your supermarket manager to order some.

2 Ibs . flank steak 2 cups water 1/4 sm all onion 2 or 3 garlic cloves 1 /4 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crushed 1/4 teaspoon dried leaf spearmint or m int, crushed 1 teaspoon salt 3 or 4 peppercorns 3 medium boiling pot atoes (l Ib . ) Boiling salted water 3 poblano chiles, roasted, peeled, or 3 whole canned green chiles, cut i n thin strips

1/2 cu p ol ive oil 1 /4 cup white vinegar 1 teaspoon M aggi seasoning Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 /4 cu p olive oil, if desired 2 tablespoons vinegar , if desired 10 l arge romaine lettuce leaves 1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 t ablespoon s w hite v inegar, if desired 2 medium tomatoes, cut in wedges (3/4 Ib.) 1 sm all avocado, peeled, sliced 1 small red onion, thinly sliced Strips of queso fresco, Monterey Jack or Swiss cheese

Place steak in a large saucepan . Add water, onion , garlic, oregano , spearmint or mint, 1 teaspoon salt and peppercorns. Cover and simmer until m eat is tender , abo u t 1 hour 45 minutes. Let cool. Drai n , reserving broth for another use. Cut m eat across grain into 2-inch long pieces. Use 2 forks to shred meat. Peel potatoes and cook i n boiling salted water u ntil tender, about 30 m in u tes. Drai n � cool and cut into I /2-inch cu bes. Combine meat, cooked potatoes and chiles i n a large bowl . M i x 1 /2 cup olive o i l , 1 /4 cup vinegar and Maggi seasoning. Add to meat m ixt ure with salt and freshly gro und pepper to taste. Toss gen tly. Taste and add m ore seasoning, if needed . If m ore dressing is desired, add 1 14 cup o live oil and 2 tablespoons vinegar. Wash lettuce leaves and slice crosswise into 1 I2-inch pieces. P lace lettuce on a large platter. Sprinkle l ightly with 1 to 2 tables­ poons olive oil� toss. A rrange m eat m i xture on lettuce. Garnish with tomato wedges, avocado slices, red onion slices and cheese strips. Serve at room tem perature. Makes 8 servings.

Chile Verde a l a Fay Fay's G reen Chi le Stew

This version of chile verde features pork. You '/I enjoy it with flour tortillas.

2 2 1 1 2

Ibs. boneless pork butt tablespoons vegetable oil onion, chopped large garlic clove, m inced teaspoons all-purpose flour

1 (8-1 /4-oz .) can stewed tom atoes 1 (7 -oz.) can chopped green chiles 1 (l O-oz . ) can tom atoes with hot green chiles Salt and freshly ground pepper

Trim off fat and cut pork into I -inch cubes . H eat oil i n a large heavy pot or D u tch oven . Add pork and cook until browned . Add onion and garlic. Cook u ntil tender. Stir i n flour. Cook and stir 1 to 2 minutes. Add stewed tomatoes, chopped chiles and tomatoes with hot chiles, break i ng up tomatoes with a spoon. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and simmer gently 1 - 1 12 hours or until m eat is tender. M akes 4 servings.

1 10

Meats 0 Poultry

Birria con Vino Tinto La m b with Red Wine

R estaurateur A ntonio Gutierrez steams lamb and chile until the meat is so tender it lalls all the bone.

3 dried California chiles 3 dried pasHia chi les Water 1 cup dry red wine 2 thin slices fresh ginger, peeled , o r 1 /4 teaspoon ground ginger 2 garlic cloves

1 teaspoon ground cu min 1 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, cru shed 1 /2 teaspoon salt 4 Ibs . Iamb shanks 1 or 2 onions , chopped Canned or homemade salsa

Place both California and pasilla chiles in a saucepan . Cover with water. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat and let stand covered until softened , 45 minutes to 1 hour. Drain chiles. D iscard stems and seeds. Place softened chiles, wine, ginger, garlic, cum i n , oregano and salt in blender or food processor; puree. Press through a sieve to elim inate bits of peel . Place lamb shan ks in a baking pan . Coat with chile mixture, cover and marinate in refrigerator overnight or at least 4 hours. Bring to room temperatu re before cooking. Preheat oven to 3 5 0°F ( 1 7 5 °C) . Cover lamb shanks tightly with fo il. Bake 2- 1 /2 hours, or until very tender. Turn meat in marinade every hour, covering tightly each time. When m eat is cool e no ugh to handle, remove from bones; discard bones. Serve meat with chopped onion and salsa on the side. Makes 4 to 6 servings. Variation

I f dried whole chiles are not avai lable, su bstitute about 1 /3 cup chili powder.

Lomo de P uerco al H orno Baked Pork Loin

Mexicans not only drink Coca Cola. they cook with it!

2 dried chipotIe chi les 2 garlic cloves 1/2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, cru shed

1 ( 1 6-oz . ) bottle Coca Cola 1 (3- to 3-1 /2-lbJ pork loin roast Salt and pepper 3 tablespoons vegetable oil or lard

Place chiles in a small saucepan. Cover with wate r. Bring to a boil and let stand until softened , about 3 0 min utes. Drain ch i les. Rem ove stem s, seeds and veins. Process chiles with garl ic, oregano and 1 /4 bottle of Coca Cola in blender or food processor. Preh eat oven to 3 5 0°F ( 1 7 5 °C ) . Sprinkle pork roast evenly with salt and pepper. Heat oil or lard in a large heavy skillet. Add pork ; brown on all sides. Drain meat and place in a bak ing pan. Spread chile mixture over meat. Add remaining Coca Cola to meat . Bake uncovered 2 to 2- ] /2 hours or un til meat ther­ mometer reads 1 70°F (75°C) , basting often with Coca Cola in pan . Let meat stand 1 5 m i n utes before slicing. Serve remai ning pan liquid separately as a sauce . M akes 4 to 6 servings. Variation

]f dried chipotle chiles are not available, substitute 2 can ned c h i potlc chiles or powder.

I

tablespoon chili

111

Meats & Poultry

Mole Colorado d e Oaxaca Oaxacan Red Mole

Spicy enough for most of us without the extra-hot guajil/o chiles.

6 dried ancho chiles 5 dried guaj illo chiles, if desired 1 / 2 lb. pork sparerib s , cu t in 2-inch lengths 2 Ibs. pork butt 4 cu ps water 1 /4 l arge onion 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 /3 cu p sesame seed s , toasted 2 whole cloves

3 peppercorns 1 sma)) cinn amon stick 1/2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano 1 /8 teaspoon dried leaf thyme 1 medium onion , quartered 1 medium tomato, peeled, halved 1 tablespoon l ard 2 teaspoons sugar 3/4 teaspoon salt

Place dried chiles i n a large saucepan. Add water to cover generously. Bring to a boil. Remove fro m h eat and let stand I hour or until softened. Separate pork ribs. Trim fat fro m pork butt and cut meat i n 1- to 1 - 1 I2-inch cubes. Place ribs and cubed meat i n another large saucepan. Add water, II 4 onion and 1 12 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Cover and simmer I hour. Remove meat and strain broth; set aside. Grind sesame seeds, cloves, peppercorns, cinnam o n stick, oregano a n d thyme i n blender u ntil pulverized. R emove a n d s e t aside. D rain soaked chiles and remove stems and seeds. Puree chiles in blender. Press through a sieve i n to a medium bowl to remove peel. Without washing blender, pu ree onion and tomato. Heat lard i n a large skillet. Add m eat. Saut e quickly u ntil partially browned. Place browned meat i n a large saucepan. Add pureed tomato m ix ture and pureed chiles to drippings i n skillet. Cook over medium heat about 7 m inutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in sesame seed m ixture. Add 1 - 1 12 cups reserved broth , sugar and 3/4 teaspoon sal t . Add chile sauce to meat. Cover and simmer 30 m inutes. Add m ore broth if needed for desired consistency. Makes about 6 servings. Variation

I f dried chiles are not available, substitute about 1 13 cup chili powder.

Chorizo Spiced Pork Sausage

Mild chili powder is labeled California chili. Hot chili po wder is New Mexico chili.

1 1 2 2

l arge garlic clove teas poon salt tablespoons mild chi l i powder to 3 teaspoons hot chi li powder

1 /2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano 2 tablespoons vi negar 1 tablespoon water 1 lb. boneless pork

In a small bowl , mash garlic with salt to make a paste. Add chile powders. Crush oregano t o fine cru mbs and add to garlic m ixture w ith vinegar and water. Grind pork with fi n e blade of meat grinder or food processor. Add garlic m i x ture; mix well. Cover tightly and refrigerate 24 hours to blend flavors. Chorizo m ay be stored i n refrigerator 3 or 4 days before cooking. Freeze for longer storage . Makes I pou nd of chorizo.

112

Meats [, Poultry

Mole Verde de Puerco Green Mole with Pork Use a jalapeno chile in place of the California chile to make this Oaxaca-style mole hotter!

1 - 1 / 2 Ibs. pork butt 3 cups water 1 sm all onion , cut i n half 2 garlic cloves 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 /4 cup hu lled squash seeds 3/4 lb. fresh tomatillos or 1 (13-oz.) can tomatillos Boi ling water

1 large Cal ifornia ch ile, roasted, peeled , seeded, or 1 canned whole green chile 5 rom aine lettuce leaves 1 /4 cu p parsley leaves 2 tablespoons cilantro leaves 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon grou nd cu min

Trim fat from pork butt and cut m eat into I -i nch pieces. Place in a large sau cepan with 3 cups water, 1 / 2 onion , 1 garlic clove and 1 12 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil. Skim foam from surface. Reduce heat. Cover and simmer 1 hour. Toast squash seeds in a small skillet u n til lightly browned , stirring constantly. Cool slightly. Place in a blender and grind until pulverized; set aside. I f using fresh tomatillos , remove papery husks. Place fresh tomatillos in a medium saucepan . C over with boiling water. Cover and coo k 1 0 m in utes. D rain and cool. I f using can ned tomatillos, drain. Combine tomatillos, chile, lettuce, remaining garlic clove , remain ing onion half, parsley and cilantro i n blender or food processor. Blend until finely ground. D rain cooked meat. S train and reserve broth . Return m eat to saucepan . Heat oil in a large skillet. Add pulverized squash seeds. Saute over low heat 2 min utes. Do not burn. Add ground tomatillo mixture . Stir over low heat 5 minutes. Stir in 1 cup reserved brot h. Pour m ix ture over meat. Add 1 12 teaspoon salt and cumin. Sim mer gently uncovered 20 to 30 minutes. Add m ore broth i f sauce becomes too thick . M akes 4 servings.

Poc- Chuc Gril led Pork Los A lmendros R estaurant in Merida serves this charcoal-grilled pork dish.

1/2 teaspoon salt 1 - 1 / 2 lbs . boneless pork loin sirloin 1 j alapeno chile or other small chops or pork steaks hot chile, finely chopped , Cold water if desired 1 - 1 / 2 teaspoons s alt 4 m edi u m or 3 large red onions, peeled (1 Ib.) 1 - 1 /2 tablespoons white vinegar 1 /4 teaspoon salt 4 small tom atoes (1 lb.)

Place pork chops in a shallow dish . Add 4 cups cold water and 1 - 1 12 teaspoons salt. Let stand 1 hour. Drain chops; cover with fresh cold water and let stand until ready to coo k . Heat and oil grill. Cook whole onions o n grill about 40 minutes, turning until softened and charred on all sides. Cook tomatoes on grill 1 5 to 20 m i nutes , until tender. Drain pork ; pat dry with paper towels. Cook pork o n grill 1 5 m i nutes, turning once . Remove and keep warm . Peel and core gril led tom atoes. D iscard cores. Place peeled and cored tomatoes in a bowl. M ash with a fork. Stir in 1 /2 teaspoon salt. If desired , add chile to taste; set aside. Remove outer charred portions of onions. Cut onions into medium pieces. Place in a medium bo wl. Stir in vinegar and 1 14 teaspoon salt. To serve , top each portion of pork w i th tomato sauce, then with onion mixt ure. Ma kes 4 servings. 1 13

Meats & Poultry

Mole de Puerco Pork Mole Serve this Michoacan stew with corn tortillas. Or lise it as a taco filling.

2 lbs . boneless pork 3 cups water 1 /4 medium onion 1 bay leaf 6 peppercorns 5 dried guaj i l lo chiles or 3 dried California or New Mexico chiles Water 1 s lice white bread

1 tablespoon l ard 3 garlic cloves 1 /4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 /8 teaspoon grou nd cloves 1 /4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper 1 tables poon l ard 1 - 1 /2 teaspoons salt 2 teaspoons vinegar 2 teaspoons sugar

Trim fat from m eat and cu t in large pieces. Place in a large saucepan with 3 cu ps water, onion , bay leaf and peppercorns. Bring to a boil. Skim foam from su rface . R educe heat. Cover and simmer 45 mi n u tes. D rain meat, reserving broth. Place chiles i n a medium saucepan . Cover with water; bring to a boil. Let stand u ntil softened, about 1 hour. Drain chiles. Remove stems and seeds. Place in blender or food processor but do not process; set aside. In a large pot o r D utch ove n , fry bread in 1 tablespoon lard until golden brown on each side. Add fried bread , garlic and abo u t 2 tablespoons reserved broth to chiles. Puree; add m ore broth if n eeded . Press through a sieve to eliminate chile peel. Stir in cinnam o n , cloves and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon lard i n same pot or D utch oven. Stir in chile puree. Saute 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in cooked pork pieces. Strain 2 cups reserved broth into pork m ixture. Add salt, vin egar and sugar. Bring to a boil; reduce heat . Cover and simmer 45 m i n utes. If sauce is not thick enough, uncover and simmer 10 to 1 5 min utes longer. Serve i n soup bowls. Makes 4 to 8 servings. Variation

If dried whole chiles are not available, substitute 1 14 to 1 /3 cup chili powder.

ReIleno Puerco Pork Stuffi ng Gourmet stuffing for any fo wl, this is especially good with Pa vo en R elleno Blanco, page 121.

2 1 3 4

tablespoons veget able oil l b . grou nd lean pork tablespoons chopped b lanched al monds Spanish- style green o lives, pitted, chopped

2 t ablespoons raisins 1 tablespoon drained capers 1/4 teaspoon salt P inch pepper

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a medium s killet. Add por k . Cook u ntil no longer pink , stirring to cru m ­ b le. Add almonds, olives , raisins a nd capers. C ook gently 5 min utes. Add salt a n d pinch of pep­ per. Remove from heat. Makes about 2- 1 /2 cu ps of stuffing.

1 14

Meats [, Poultry

Carn ita s a a Ca sera Home- Style Meats

Pork cooked this way is used for tacos, burritos, tostadas alld sandwiches.

1 -3/4 to 2 Ibs. pork butt Water 1 /2 med i u m onion, cut i n half 1 large garlic clove

1 teaspoon salt 1 /4 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, cru s hed 1 /4 teaspoon ground cu m i n S a l t or garl ic salt

Place meat i n a 3 -quart saucepan . Add water to cover, onion, garlic, salt , oregano and cumin. Bring to a boil; reduce heat . Cover and simmer 2 hours. Preheat oven to 3 50°F ( 1 7 5°C) . Drain meat, reservi ng broth for another use. Place m eat in a baking pan . Sprinkle m eat evenly with salt or garl ic salt . Bake 4 5 m i n utes. R e move fro m ove n . While still warm , use 2 forks to sh red meat. Makes about 4 cups of shredded meat.

How To Make Carnitas a la Casera

Sprinkle boiled drained meat w ith salt or garlic salt before baking.

Shred warm baked meat with two forks.

Meats & Pou ltry

Recado Colorado Seasoned Achiote Paste

Packages of achiote seeds are a vailable in markets featuring Mexican food.

1 tablespoon cru s hed achiote seeds or New Mexico chili powder Pinch turmeric

2 tablespoons l ime j uice, lemon j u ice or vi negar

Combine all i ngredie nts and mash to make a paste. Makes about 3 tablespoons.

Mole Poblano Mole Puebla- Style

A uthentic Mole Poblano is complicated to make but worth the effort.

2 (3-lb.) broi ler-fryers , cut i n servi ng pieces Water 1 onion , cut in h alf 1 bay leaf 4 peppercorns Salt 2 dried ancho ch i les 4 dried mulato chi les 3 dried pasHia chi les 3 t ablespoons vegetable oil About 3/4 cup water 1 onion , coarsely chopped 2 garli c cloves 1 small tomato, peeled 1 t ablespoon vegetable oil 1 /2 slice white bread

1/2 corn tortilla 2 tablespoon s blanched almonds 2 tablespoon s toasted sesame seeds 2 tablespoons raisins, softened in hot water, drai ned 2 whole cloves 3 peppercorns 1 /4 teaspoon anise seeds 1 /4 teaspoon ground ci nnamon 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 oz. Mexican spiced chocol ate or 2 oz. sem isweet chocol ate, 4 teaspoons sugar, 1 /8 teaspoon cinnamon and 2 or 3 drops vanilla extract 1 tablespoon sugar Salt Sesame seeds for garnish

Place chicken pieces in a large pot or D u tch oven . Add water to cover, onion halves, bay leaf, 4 peppercorns and salt to taste. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Cover and simmer 1 hour. R i nse chiles; pat dry with paper towels. H eat 3 tablespoons oil i n large pot or D utch oven . Add chiles. Fry 5 m in utes, turning constantly. D rain o n paper towels. Process ch iles and about 3/4 cu p water in blender u ntil pureed, adding more water i f n eeded . Press through a sieve to elimi nate peel . Process chopped onion , garlic and tomato in blender u ntil smooth. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in the same pot or D u tch ove n. Stir bread, tortilla and almonds i n oil u ntil browned but not bu rned . Add browned bread mixture, sesame seeds, raisins, cloves, 3 peppercorns, anise seeds and cin­ namon to onion m ixture. Process u n til pu reed, adding abo u t 2 tablespoons water or broth from chicken as needed. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in clean pot or Dutch oven. Add pureed onion mix­ ture . Stir over medium heat 10 minutes. Add chile puree. Cook and stir 5 min utes. Gradually stir in 4 cups broth fro m chicken . Stir in chocolate and sugar until dissolved. Add salt to taste. Cover and simmer 1 hour 45 m i nutes. U ncover and cook 3 0 m i nutes longer or until thickened slightly. Add chicken pieces. S i m mer 30 minutes. To serve , place a piece of chicken on each plate . Cover with sauce; garnish with sesame seeds. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

1 16

Meats & Poultry

Po 1 0 a la

inagreta

Chic ken V i na i g rette

A spectacular company dish from Veracruz.

2 (3- to 3- 1 /2-lbJ broiler-fryers 1 cu p water Salt 3 bay leaves 12 peppercorns 1 /4 cup prepared mustard 1 /2 cu p white vinegar 6 to 8 small tomatoes, peeled, sliced (2 lbs . )

2 medium onions, sliced 4 small boi l i ng potatoes, peeled (1 lb.) Boi l i ng sal ted water Romaine or other leaf lettuce 2 or 3 h ard-cooked eggs , qu artered 1 /2 (8-ozJ can peas, drai ned, heated

Cut up chickens. Separate th ighs from legs. Cut off wings and di scard wing tips. Cut breasts and backs in half crosswise . Place chicken pieces in a large pot or Dutch oven . Add I cup wate r, salt to tast e , bay leaves and peppercorns. Bring to a boi l � reduce heat. Cover and simmer 30 m i nutes . Blend m ustard and vinegar. Stir i nto chicken broth. Top chicken pieces with tomatoes and onions. C over and simmer until vegetables are tender, about 30 m i n u tes. While tomatoes and onions coo k , s i m mer potatoes in boiling salted water until tender, about 30 m i nutes. Line a large platter with lettuce l eaves. Carefu lly lift chicken pieces from broth with a slotted spoon and arrange on lett uce. Top chicken with cooked tomato and onion . Cut cooked potatoes i n half and arrange around platter. Place egg quarters between potatoes and o n top of chicken . Top with peas . Pour some of the pan ju ices over chicken and vegetables. Remainder may be strai ned and served separately as a sauce . Makes 8 servings .

Polio Estofado Stewed Chicken

Mexicans serve this with rice or boiled potatoes to soak up the juices.

1 (3- 1 /2-lb J broiler-fryer 1 large garlic clove 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 /8 teaspoon coarsely grou nd pepper 3 tablespoons white vi negar 3 tablespoon s vegetable oil 2 tablespoons sweet sherry 1 medium onion, chopped

4 small tomatoes, peeled , chopped (1 I b J 1 2 Spanish -st yle green olives 2 teaspoons capers 1 /2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, cru shed 1 bay leaf 1 teas poon salt

Quarter chicken , wash and pat dry . Mash garlic with 1 /2 teaspoon salt to make a paste . Mix garl ic paste, pepper and vi negar. Rub chicken all o ver with garlic m i xture . Let stand at least I h o u r before coo k i ng. Heat oil in large skillet. A d d chicken quarters 2 at a time and brown on both sides. Place brown ed chicken i n a large pot or Dutch oven . Add she rry, onion , tomatoes, olives, capers , oregano , bay leaf and I teaspoon sal t. Bri ng to a boil� reduce heat. Cover and sim mer 1 hour, turning chicken pieces i n sauce. Makes 4 servings.

117

Meats f:J Poultry

Pol I o e n Pipian Chicken in Squash Seed Sauce

Unusual nutty sallce makes this Guadalajaran dish exceptional.

5 dried ancho chi les Water 2 O-lb.) chicken s , cut up Water 1/2 onion 1 bay leaf 8 peppercorns Salt

1 /4 lb. hulled squash seeds 1 /2 cup sesame seeds 1 tablespoon u ncooked long-grai n rice 1 tablespoon lard 1 sl ice white bread , broken up 1 corn tortilla, torn i n pieces 1 tablespoon lard 1 teaspoon salt

Place chiles i n a medium saucepan and add water to cover generously. Bring to a boil. R emove from heat and let stand until softened, about 1 hour. Place chicken pieces i n a large pot or D u tch oven with water to cover. Add on ion , bay leaf, peppercorns and salt to taste. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Cover and simmer 4 5 m i nutes. Drain chicken , reserving broth. Toast squash seeds in an ungreased, h eavy skillet until l ightly browned , stirring often . R emove from skillet; set aside. Add sesame seeds and rice to skillet. Cook and stir until browned. Add to toasted squash seeds. H eat 1 tablespoon lard i n skillet. Add broken bread and tortilla. Cook until browned. Add to squash seed m ixture. Grind toasted i ngredients 1 12 cup at a time in blender , stirring with a rubber spatu la so blender does n o t becom e clogged. Toasted i ngredients may be ground all at once in food processor. M ixture should be very fi n e. D rain chiles. Remove stems and seeds. Place in blender or food processor. Puree , adding a little chicken broth if needed. Press through a sieve to elim inate peel . Heat 1 tablespoon lard in a large pot or D u tch oven . Add gro und seed mixture and chile puree. Cook 1 m in u te . Stir i n 4 cups rese rved chicken broth and 1 teaspoon sal t . Add chicken pieces. Simmer 1 5 min utes. Taste and add more salt if needed. Sauce should be a medium consistency. Thi n with more bro th, if n eeded . Makes 6 servings. Variation

I f dried ancho chiles are not available, substitute about 5 tablespoons chili powder.

PolIo Yucateco Y ucatecan Chicken

Serve this red-coated chicken with rice or shred it and use to top Panuchos Merida, page 1 00.

1 (3-1 /2-lb.) broiler-fryer 5 cups water 1 /2 onion 1 garlic clove 3 cilantro sprigs, i ncluding stems

3 or 4 spearmint leaves 6 peppercorns Salt Recado Colorado, m ade with wh ite vi negar, page 1 1 6

Place whole chicken breast-side down i n a large pot o r Dutch ove n . Add water, onion , garlic, cilantro , spearm i nt, peppercorns and sal t to taste. Bring to a boil ; reduce heat. Cover and simmer 3 0 minu tes. Remove chicke n, reserving broth fo r another use . Let chicken cool slightly. Preheat oven to 3 5 0°F ( 1 7 5 °C ) . Prepare R ecado Co lorado. If too thick, add a l ittle water. Daub mi x ture over chicken . Place chicken in a baking dish. Bake 30 m i n u tes or until cooked but not dry. Makes 4 servings . 118

Meats f:J Poultry

Arroz con PolIo Chicken & Rice

Tasty but subtle seasonings make this an ideal party casserole.

2 w hole ch icken breasts 1 qt. water 1 /4 m ediu m onion 1 l arge garlic clove Salt 8 peppercorns 1 (8- 1 /2-oz.) can pea s , drai ned 18 l arge Span ish -style green olives

1 /2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, cru shed 1 teas poon salt Pepper 1 tablespoon bacon dri ppi ngs 1 cup uncooked long-grai n rice, rin sed , drai ned 1 cup can ned tomatoes , u ndrained

Place chicken breasts i n a large pot or D u tch ove n . Add water, onion , garl ic, salt to taste and pep­ percorn s . Bring t o a boil� reduce heat . Cover and simmer u ntil tender, about 45 m i n u tes. Drain chicke n , reserving broth. Coarsely shred meat with 2 forks or your fingers. Add peas, olives, oregano, 1 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste � set aside. Preheat oven to 3 50°F (I 7 5°C) . Heat bacon d rippings in a large skillet. Add rice. Saute until lightly browned. Add tomatoes� press int o rice with a spoo n . Si mmer 3 to 5 minutes. Turn i nto a 2- 1 /2- to 3-quart casserole . Add chicken mixture � mix gently. S train 2- 1 /2 cups broth into mixture. Add more if n eeded to cover mixture. Cover and bake I hour. Let stand cove red a few m i n u tes before serving. Makes 6 servings. Variation

To make 1 2 servings , double all ingredients. Use 1 ( 1 6-oz.) can whole tomatoes and 1 (5-oz.) jar S panish-style green olives.

PolIo con Pina a la Barbacoa Ba rbecued Chi cken With Pi nea pple

Choose a fairly firm, hea vy, light-colored pineapple that has plump, glossy eyes.

1 med i u m , fresh pi neapple 1 /4 cup honey 1 (l-Ib.) can tomato pu ree 1 /4 cu p canned pi neapple j u ice 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 tablespoon sugar 1 t ablespoon chopped fres h parsley

1 teaspoon salt 1 /2 teas poon ch i l i powder 1 /8 teaspoon hot pepper sauce 1 /8 teaspoon pepper 1 (3- to 3-1 /2-lbJ broiler-fryer 1 whole ch icken breast

Remove pineapple crown . Cut pineapple lengthwise in 8 sections. Cut core from each section but leave shell on. Place in a rectangular baking dish. Brush cut su rfaces with honey . Let stand I hour, turning occasionally to coat thoro ughly with honey. Pre pare grill. Combine tomato puree , pineapple j u ice , oi l , sugar, parsley , sa lt, chili powder, hot pepper sauce and pe ppe r. Cu t chicken into servi ng pieces , splitting breasts , if desired. Place chicken on grill over hot coals. Brush with tomato-pineap ple sauce . Cook 45 min utes to 1 hour, turning several times and brushing with sauce each time. Place pineapple wedges shell-side down on grill and cook 1 5 minutes or un til heated through . Se rve chicken with pin eapple on the side. Makes 4 or 5 servi ngs.

119

Meats (, Poultry

PolIo Pibil Ba ked Ch icken

If you don 'f ha ve banana leaves for this Yucatan specialty, use foil only.

Recado Colorado made with lime j u ice or lemon j u ice, page 1 1 6 1 garlic clove 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 med i u m onion, s l iced

4 large sections banana leaf, i ncluding center rib 1 (3-lb.) ch icken , quartered Salt

Prepare Recad o Colorado . Add garlic. Mash to blend� set aside. H eat 1 tablespoon oil i n a medium skillet. Add onion . Cook u ntil tender but not browned� set aside. Preheat oven to 3 50°F ( I 7 5 °C) . C u t fo ur 20-i nch sheets of alum i n u m fo il. Place 1 sheet o f foi l on a flat surface . Place banana leaf i n center of foil. R u b 1 chicken quarter with some of the remai n i ng o i l . Place chicken on banana leaf. Spread 1 /4 of the R ecado Co lorado m ixture over chicken with back of a spoon. Sprinkle with sal t. Add 1 /4 of the cooked onion . Wrap banana leaf around chicken to cover. Fold foi l o ver banana leaf and crimp to close securely. If you use small pieces o f banana leaf, overlap them to enclose chicken completely. Continue u ntil all chicken quarters are seasoned and wrap­ ped . Place in a single layer in a large baking pan . Bake 1 hour. Remove foil and drain off excess ju ices. Serve chicken wrapped i n the leaves . Mak es 4 servi ngs.

How To Make Pollo Pibil

P lace a chicken quarter on a banana leaf or foil, then smear chicken with Recado Colorado.

Sprinkle chicken with salt and top with 1 /4 of the cooked onions. Wrap in banana leaves, then i n foil.

Meats & Poultry

Pavo en Relleno Bla nco Tu rkey with White Stuffing

Sumptuous stuffed turkey breast is from Los A lmendros R estaurant in Merida.

1 (S-I b . ) turkey breast Cold w ater 3 medium or 2 l arge garlic cloves 1 teaspoon salt 1 /2 teaspoon w hite pepper 2 tabl espoons white v inegar Tomato Sauce: 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 s mall onions , chopped (1 /2 lb.) 2 small green peppers , chopped 4 smal l tomatoes, peel ed, chopped (I Ib.) 3 t ablespoons chopped bl anched almonds White Sauce: 1/2 cup alJ-pu rpose flour 3 cups chicken or turkey brot h , room temperature

Re) )eno Pu erco, page 1 1 4 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Tomato Sauce, see below White Sauce, see below G rated Parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons raisins 4 Spanish-style green ol ives, pitted, chopped 1 tablespoon drained capers Salt

3/4 cup Tom ato Sauce, see above

One hour before roasting, remove turkey breast from refrigerator. R inse with cold water and pat dry with paper towels. M ash garlic with 1 teaspoon salt to make a paste . Add pepper and vi negar; mix well. Rub su rface o f turkey breast with garlic m ixture. Let stand at room temperature u ntil ready to cook. Prepare Relleno Puerco . Preheat oven to 325 ° F ( I 65°C) . Place a piece of heavy foil slightly larger t h a n base o f turkey in a shallow roasting pan . Stuff a little of the pork stuffing into turkey breast. M o u n d remai ning stuffing in center of foil. Place stu ffed tu rkey breast , cavity-side down over stuffing mound . Crimp foil tightly around turkey. Coat top of tu rkey with 2 tables­ poons oil. Cover with a loose tent of additional foil. R oast 2 hours. Remove foil tent; roast I hour longer. Prepare Tomato Sauce; set aside. Remove turkey breast from oven . Grasp 2 opposite sides o f foi l and lift from pan onto a warm platter. Place platter in oven with heat off and door open. Let stand i n open oven 2 5 to 3 0 minutes before slicing. Prepare Wh ite Sauce . Reheat remaining Tomato Sauce. Before serving, lift turkey and foi1 from platter; place o n a bak i ng sheet. Drain off any drippings from stuffing. Spoon stuffing from fo il and turkey cav ity onto plat­ ter; m i x gently. Place turkey breast o n top of stuffing. To serve , slice turkey; top each serving with some stuffing, a generous amount of Wh ite Sauce and a spoonful of Tomato Sauce. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese . M akes 8 servings. Tomato Sauce : H eat oil in a small skillet. Add onions and green peppers. Cook unti1 on ions are very tender. Add tomatoes , almonds, raisins , o lives and capers. Cook over low heat 1 5 min utes, stirring occa­ sionally. Season with salt to taste. M akes 3 cups. White S auce : Place flour i n a jar with a tight-fitting lid. Add I cup broth . Cover and shake until ble nded. Strain into a 2-quart saucepan . Add remaining 2 cups broth. Bring to a boil, stirring constan tly. Add 3/4 cup Tomato Sauce. Simmer gently 1 5 minutes. Makes about 4 cups. Entertai n with a Yucatan Fiesta. Pavo en Relleno B lanco (Turkey with W hite Stuffing) is in the center with bowls of W hite S auce and Tomato Sauce. Clockwise from top right : Ensa lada M i xta U x ma l ( U x m a l Mixed Salad ) , page 5 6 ; Panuchos M erida (Pa nuc hos M erida - Style) , page 1 00 ; Sopa de L ima ( Lime & Tortilla Soup), page 45; and Torta de C ielo (Heavenly Torte) , page 1 80.

121

Pescados y Mariscos Fish

& Shel l fish

Two long coastlines and numerous lakes and rivers provide M e xicans with a variety of fish and shellfish. Because it's never far fro m the coast to any point i n the center o f the coun try, you can have good seafood almost anywhere in M e x ico. But freshly caugh t fish cooked and served at once with the surf whispering in the background is an exceptional treat. You can eat grilled fish on a stick at Puerto Vallarta or have a sizzling whole fish brought to you under a palm thatch at Zihuatanejo. A t most beach resorts, you can also order ceviche, an appetizer o f raw fish soaked i n lime j u ice. This soaking procedure cooks the fish just as thoroughly as if i t had been heated, so d o n ' t hesi tate t o try i t . Ceviche de A lberto (Alberto 's M arinated Fish) is a simple m ix ture served as a fi rs t course at a restaurant in M erida. A few slight changes and i t becom es ceviche as served at the Chato M oya, a rustic seafood cafe near the docks in Veracruz. Mariscos, or shellfis h, are much loved i n Mex-

ico and a seafood cocktail is a popu lar way to start a m eal. Choose a shrimp , crab or oyster cocktail or try a m ixture of shellfish - usually shrimp and oysters - called Campechana in honor of the coastal state of Campeche. A n attractive first cou rse is Camarones en Salpicon (Shri m p Salad) . My recipe is from H oraci o , a workman i n Mex ico City. This shrimp salad is served o n lettuce with mayo n naise on the side and lime j uice squeezed over it . T he best-known place for seafood in Mexico is pro bably Boca del Rio , a small town on t he out­ skirts o f Veracruz. Here you will fi nd a wide variety of seafood and the lively m usic of Veracruz. A lways o n the menu is Huachinango a la Veracruzana (Red S napper Veracruz-S tyle) , one o f Mexico's most famous fish dishes. One Veracruz chef adds wine and consomme. Others add jalapeiio chiles, but the dish usually has a mild flavo r. The si mple but authen tic recipe here comes from Bertha Delfin de Rod riguez of Veracruz.

G O L F C O A ST D INNER Camarones e n Salpicon (Shrimp Salad) Pescado Capeado en Caldillo (Fish in Gravy) Arroz con Chiles (Rice with Chiles) Ensalada de Coliflor (Cauliflower Salad) Aderezo de Hierbas (Herb Dressing) Flan Napolitano de Veracruz (Neapolitan Flan from Veracruz)

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F i s h & She l l fish

Ceviche d e

erto

Alberto's Marinated Fish

Marinating fish in lime juice several hOllrs or o vernight is almost like cooking it!

1 lb. w hite fi sh fi l lets such as h addock or sole 1 /2 cup l i me j u i ce

1 mediu m tomato, chopped 1 /4 cup fi nely chopped onion 1 /2 teaspoon salt

Wash fish and pat d ry with paper towe ls. Cut in ) 13- to I 12-inch square pieces. Place in a med ium bowl. Add lime ju ice� stir. Cover and refrigerate several hours or overn ight until fish beco mes opaque. Turn fish i n to a colander� drain . Rinse l ightly with cold wate r, but not enough to wash o u t the lime. D ra i n . Return fish to bowl . Stir in tomato , onion and sal t . Refrigerate at least 30 min utes for flavors to bl e nd. Serve i n seafood cocktail glasses a s a first course . Makes 6 servings. Variation Ceviche Chato Moya {Marinated Fish from the Chato Moya Restauran t} : When stirring i n tomato, a d d a d a s h o f pepper and thin sl ices of a serrano chile o r ot her sm a l l hot c hi l e to taste. Serve on indi vidual plates or in cocktail glasses.

How To Make Ceviche de Alberto

Cut raw fish into 1 /3 - to 1 / 2 - inch squares. Marinate in lime juice several hours or overnight.

Drain marinated fish, rinse sl ightly and mix with tomato, onion and salt. Refrigerate 30 minutes.

Fish f, Shell fish

Coctel de Ca marones Mazatlan Shri m p Cockta i l Mazatlan - Style

A treat from the beaches of western Mexico.

1 lb. u nshelled small shrimp 1 qt. water 2 onion s lices 1 bay leaf 1 tablespoon lime j uice 8 peppercorns 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 cup chopped onion

4 teaspoons chopped ci lantro leaves 1 /4 cu p diced cucu mber 1 /2 cup ketchup 1/4 cup lime j uice Few drops hot chile salsa or hot pepper sauce Freshly grou nd pepper Whole ci lantro leaves

Wash shrimp well; drain . Do not peel. Combine water, onion slices, bay leaf, 1 tablespoon lime juice, peppercorns and salt i n a large saucepan . Bring to a boil. Drop shrimp into boiling water. Cook 4 m i n u tes. Remove shrimp. S train and reserve liquid. Peel shrimp; slit backs and remove sand veins. Place i n a large bowl. Cover with reserved liquid; chill. In a medium bowl, combine chopped onion , cilan tro , cucu m ber, ketchup, 1 12 cup reserved shri mp liquid, 1 14 cup lime ju ice , hot chile salsa or ho t pepper sauce to taste and pepper to taste. Drain shrimp, discarding remai n ­ ing liqu i d . S t i r drained shrim p i n to onion m ixture . S p o o n i n to 4 seafood cocktail glasses. Garnish with whole cilantro leaves. Makes 4 servings. Variation

R ed uce shrimp liquid to 1 14 cu p. Add 1 14 cu p white wine. R ed uce lime juice to 2- 1 /2 teaspoons.

Coctel de Cama rones Sh ri m p Cockta i l

YOll 'II find this version of shrimp cocktail in Progreso, the port city of Yucatan.

1 /2 lb. peeled cooked small shrimp 1/2 cup water 2/3 cup ketchup 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped cil antro leaves

1 /4 cu p chopped onion Abou t 8 teaspoons m ayonn aise Fresh l y ground pepper Drained can ned or cooked fresh peas 2 l i mes, cut in h alf

Divide shrimp among 4 seafood cock tail glasses. Stir water i n to ketch u p and spoon equally over shrimp. Add 1 - 1 12 teaspoons cilantro and 1 tablespoon onion to each glass. Stir ligh tly . Top each cocktail with abou t 2 teaspoons mayonnaise. Sprinkle with pepper and garnish with a few peas. Serve limes on the side. M akes 4 servings.

Variation Coctel Cam pechana (Seafood Cocktail Cam peche-Style) : S ubstitute a m i xture of seafood such as shri m p and oysters o r shrimp, oysters and crabmeat for the shrimp.

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Fish G Shellfish

Ca m a o nes en Salpicon Shri m p Salad

A fresh and lively first course.

1 lb. fresh uns heHed medium shri mp 1 qt. water 1 tablespoon lime j u ice 1 bay leaf 6 peppercorns 1 /2 teaspoon salt 1 large California chile, roasted, peeled, chopped or 1 /4 cup canned chopped green chiles

1 small tomato, chopped 4 green onions, chopped 2 tablespoons chop ped cil antro leaves 1 tablespoon lime j u ice Salt and pepper 4 large lettuce leaves 4 tablespoons mayonnaise 4 lime wedges

Wash shrimp thoro ughly . Bring water to a boil in large saucepan. Add I tablespoon lime j u ice, bay leaf, peppercorns and 1 12 teaspoon sal t. Drop shrimp into boiling water. Cook 4 minutes. Drain shrimp, reserv i ng liquid. Peel shrimp� slit backs and remove sand veins. Place shri m p in a large bowl. Cover with reserved liquid� chill. Before serving, drain shrim p t horoughly. M i x drained s h r i m p w i t h ch ile , tomato, green on ions a n d cilantro . Sprinkle w i t h 1 tablespoon lime ju ice and salt and pepper to taste� stir. Arrange lettuce leaves on 4 plates. Spoon shrimp m ixture evenly onto lettuce leaves. M o u nd 1 tablespoon of mayonnaise beside shrimp. Garnish with a lime wedge . M akes 4 servings.

How To Make Camarones en Salpic6n

Peel cooked shrimp; slit backs and remove sand veins.

Combine chil led, drained shrimp with chile, tomato, green onions and cilantro leaves.

Fish f, Shel l fish

Pescado al Mojo de Aj o Fish i n Garlic Sauce

For those who love garlic!

1 s m a l l lime 1 l b . white fi sh fi l lets such as haddock or sole Sal t and pepper

1/4 cu p olive oil 3 garlic cloves, chopped 1 /4 cup vegetable oil C hopped parsley

Squeeze lime ju ice over fish . Sprinkle with salt and pe pper to taste . Let stand while preparing gar­ lic oil. H eat ol ive oil and garlic in a small ski llet or saucepan over medium heat until olive oil is fragran t and garlic just starts to brown lightly. Keep garlic oil war m . H eat vegetable oil i n a large skillet. Add fish fillets. Sau te until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork, 7 to 1 0 min u tes, depending upon thickness of fish . Turn o nce. D ivide fish into 4 serving portions. Spoon some of the garlic oil onto each portio n . Sprin kle with parsley. M akes 4 servings.

H uach i nango a la Veracruza na Red Snapper Veracruz- Style

An authentic version of the famous Veracruz dish.

3 1 3 5

t ablespoons ol ive oil m edium onion , chopped garlic cloves, m inced mediu m tomatoes, peeled , chopped 0 - 1 / 2 lbs . ) 1 0 Spanish-style green ol ives, p itted , chopped

2 tablespoon s capers 3 bay leaves 6 peppercorns Salt 2 lbs. red snapper fil lets or other w hite fi s h fil lets Salt

H eat olive oil in a large saucepan . Add onion and garlic. Cook until tender but not browned. Add tomatoes, olives, capers, bay leaves, peppercorns and salt to taste. Bri ng to a boil� reduce heat. Simmer gen tly u ncovered 10 m inutes. Place fish fillets i n a large skillet and sprin kle with salt. Pour sauce over fish. Bring to a boil; reduce heat . Cover and simmer 10 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork. M akes 6 servings.

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Fish [. She l l fish

Pesca do Capeado en Ca l d i l l o Fish i n Gravy

MallY fish markets write their recipe-of-the-day on a blackboard. I sa w this one in Veracruz.

Tomato Sauce, see below 2 eggs, separated 1 lb. wh ite fish fillets such as h addock or sole Tomato Sauce: 6 to 8 s ma l l tomatoes, peeled (2 Ibs,) 1 /2 med i u m onion 2 garli c cloves 1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 /3 cu p vegetable oil Salt 1 /3 cup all-purpose flour

3 j a lapeno chi les or other small hot chiles 1 (2-inch) piece cinnamon stick 1 teaspoon salt

Prepare Tomato Sauce; set aside. Beat egg whites in a medium bowl until stiff. Add egg yolks and beat until blended; set aside. Cut fish into 4 serving-size pieces. Heat oil in a large skillet. S prin kle salt o n each side of fish. Coat with flour, then dip in beaten eggs. Fry in oil until lightly browned o n both sides. Add Tomato Sauce. Cover and simmer 5 m inutes. Makes 4 servings. Tom ato Sauce : Combine tomatoes, onion and garlic in blender or food processor and process until pureed. H eat oil i n a large sucepan . A dd tomato m ix ture, ch iles, cinnamon stick and salt. Bring to a boil� red uce heat. Simmer gen tly uncovered 3 0 min utes; keep hot. Remove chiles and cinnamon stick before serving. Makes about 4 cups.

How To Make Pescado Capeado en Caldillo Fry coated fish pieces in hot oil until golden brown.

Fish & She l l fish

Cam arones a la Veracruzana Shr i m p Ve rac r u z St y l e -

Shrimp cooked too long or left to stand in hot sauce will become tough.

1 1 1 1 5

lb. fres h medium shrimp l arge green pepper tablespoon vegetable oil small onion , chopped small tomatoes, peeled , chopped 0 - 1 /4 lbs . ) 1 2 pimiento-stuffed green olives

1 - 1 /2 teaspoons capers 1 bay leaf 1 / 2 teaspoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 tab lespoons vegetable oil Lime j u ice

Peel shrimp� slit backs and remove sand veins. Set aside. Cut green pepper into 1 - l /2 " x 1 /2" strips. H eat 1 tablespoon oil o n a large saucepan. Add onion and green pepper strips. Cook until onion is tender but not browned. Add tomatoes, olives, capers, bay leaf, sugar and salt . Bring to a boil; reduce heat . Cover and simmer 20 minutes. Taste sauce and add more salt if needed . Heat 2 tablespoons oil in another large skillet. Add cleaned shrimp. Cook over medium heat until pink, about 3 m i nu tes. Sprinkle a few drops of lime juice over shrimp. Add sauce. Cook and stir 3 to 4 minutes longer. S erve immediately. M akes 4 servings.

Pescado con Salsa de Aguacate Fish w i t h Avocado Sa uce

Mello w velvety A vocado Sauce is superb!

1 - 1 / 2 lbs. red snapper or other white fi sh fi l lets Water 6 peppercorns 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 bay leaf, crumbled A vocado Sauce: 1 l arge avocado 1 /2 cup whipping cream 1 /2 cu p m i l k 1 teaspoon l i me j uice 3/4 teaspoon M aggi seasoni ng

3 or 4 onion s lices Juice of 1 /2 small lime or lemon 0 - 1 /2 to 2 teaspoons) Avocado Sauce, see below P arsley

1 /2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 1 /2 teaspoon salt Dash white pepper 2 or 3 parsley sprigs

Place fish i n a large skillet. Add water to cover, peppercorns, salt , bay leaf, onion slices and lime j uice or lemon ju ice. Bring to a boil� red uce heat . Cover and simmer 1 0 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork. Prepare Avocado Sauce. Drain fish. Place on a warm platter and keep warm . Pou r over fish. Garnish with parsley ; serve immediately. Makes 6 servings. Avocado Sauce : Peel avocado and slice i n to blender. Add remaining ingredients. Cover and blend u n til smooth. Pour i n to a saucepan. H eat over medium heat. stirring frequently; do not boil.

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Camarones a la Veracruzana (Shrimp Verac ruz- Style)

Fish & Shellfish

Pescado Alem a n Fish Germa n- Style

Mustard and potatoes represent the German influence.

1 large boiling potato, peeled Boiling salted water 1 - 1 /2 to 2 lbs. fresh tuna or white fi sh fi l lets such as haddock Water Salt 8 peppercorns Ju ice of 1 / 2 small lime or lemon 0 - 1 /2 to 2 teaspoons) 3 or 4 onion slices 3 tablespoons butter

1 medium onion, cut i n half lengthwise, s liced 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 teaspoon s Dij on-style mu stard 1 /2 cup m i l k 1 b a y leaf 1 /8 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crushed 1 /8 teaspoon dried leaf thyme, cru shed Salt P i nch white pepper

Cook potato in boiling salted water 35 minutes or until tender. Drai n ; set aside. Place fish in a large skillet. Add water almost to cover. Add salt to taste , peppercorns, lime juice or lemon ju ice and 3 or 4 onion sl ices. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Cover and simmer 1 0 minutes or u ntil fish flakes easi ly when tested with a fork. Drain fish. Place on a warm platter and keep warm . S train fish stock , reserving 1 - 1 12 cups. Melt butter in a medium saucepan . Add sliced medium onion. Cook until tender but not browned. Stir i n flour and m ustard. Gradually stir in reserved fish stock. Add remaining ingredients. Cook and stir until mix ture boils and thickens. Slice cooked potato. Add to sauce; heat through. Pour over fish. Serve immediately. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Pescado en Salsa Verde Fish i n Green Sauce

Green tomatoes are not identical to tomatillos, but you can try them as a substitute

1 lb. fresh tom atillos or 1 -3/4 cu ps drai ned canned tomati l los 3 green onions, with some green tops 1 garlic clove 1 tablespoon chopped parsley leaves 1 small California chile, roasted , peeled, seeded , or 1 canned whole green ch i le

2 teaspoons vegetable oil Salt 1 - 1 /2 lbs. wh ite fi sh fi llets such as h addock or sole 3 tablespoon s lime j uice 1 /2 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons vegetable oil

Remove papery husks from tomatillos. Wash tomatillos. Pour water 1 /2 inch deep into a medium saucepan . Add fresh tomatillos. Bring to a boil; reduce heat . Cover and cook 1 0 minutes or until tender. Drain and coo l. D o not cook can ned tomatillos. Place tomatillos, green onions, garlic, parsley and chile in blender or food processor; process until pureed. Heat 2 teaspoons oil in a medium saucepan . Add puree and salt to taste. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Sim mer gently uncovered 1 5 minutes. Set sauce aside and keep warm . S prin kle fish with lime j u ice and 1 12 teas­ poon salt. Let stand 3 to 5 minutes. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a large skillet. Add fish. Cook I minute on each side. Add sauce. Cover and simmer 5 m in utes or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork. M akes 6 servings. 1 32

H uevos Eggs Eggs gain spicy character a n d lots of color when cooked with M e x ican i ngredients. D elicious co m­ binations of tomatoes, chiles, tortillas and eggs are endless. Fry a tortilla until it's crisp, top it with a fried egg and tomato sa/sa for Huevos Rancheros (Eggs Ranch-Style) . S witch from a red to a green sa/sa made with tomatillos for a dish with a different flavor and appearance . Sandwich fried eggs be­ tween two tortillas, place them on a mound of refried black beans and pour tomato sauce over the m . I t ' s cal led Huevos Motu/enos (Eggs Motul­ Style) . The trademark of this d ish is fried banana slices o n the side. If eggs are hard-cooked, wrapped i n a tortilla and topped with a sauce, they are Papadzu/es (Egg-Fi lled Enchiladas) , page 8 1 . The sauce is usually made of ground squash seeds, but you can also serve them with a tomato sauce .

Sometimes eggs are baked in a to mato sa uce as in Huevos a /a Ma/aguef7a (Eggs Malaga-Style) . A specialty of the Gran Cafe de la Parroquia in Ve racr u z , the recipe i n c l u des ham , baco n , asparagus and a whole chile. In the pleasant little patio of the Hotel Colon in M e r i d a , I o rdered Hue vos R e vue/tos A /ba ni! ( S t o n e m ason ' s Scram bled Eggs) . They are scram bled with beans. A sweet ro ll and Mex ican coffee added up to a tho roughly delightfu l break­ fast. You can also stir chorizo, spicy Mex ican sausage , into scramb led eggs , serve them on a plate o r roll them u p in a flour tortilla fo r a q u ick and easy breakfast burrito. Incidentally, you may see the word tortilla listed under eggs on a restaurant menu in Mexico. Tor­ tilla is the Spanish word for omelet as well as for the flat bread made of corn flour used to make tacos, enchiladas and other typical d ishes.

R

NCH

Pina Rebanada (Sliced Pineapple) Huevos con Papas Y Chorizo (Eggs with Potatoes £, Chorizo) Tortillas de Harina (Flour Tortillas) Gelatina de Sang rita (Sangrita Salad Mold) Pan de Naranja (Orange Bread) Cafe Mexicano (Mexican Coffee)

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Eggs

Huevos Motulenos Eggs Motul - Style

This egg dish from a town in Yucatan is a good way to use leftover refried beans.

3/4 cup Tomato Sauce for Pescado Capeado en Caldillo, page 1 29 1/4 cu p Frij oles Refritos made with bl ack bean s , page 149 Vegetable oil for frying 2 corn tortiilas

3 di agonal s lices banana or plantain 2 eggs 1 /2 t h in sl ice of cooked ham, diced 2 tablespoons drained can ned or cooked fres h peas, room temperature

Prepare Tomato Sauce� keep hot. H eat beans� keep hot. Pour oil 1 /4 inch deep into a medium skillet. H eat to 365°F (I 85 °C ) . Fry each tortilla until crisp and lightly browned. D rain on paper towels , reserving oil in skillet. Keep tortillas warm. Fry banana or plantain slices in reserved oil u ntil browned. D rain on paper towels, reserving oil in skillet. Keep fried banana or plantain warm . I n the same skille t , fry eggs sunny-side up. To asssem ble dish , spread some of the Tomato Sauce o n a warm plate . Place heated beans in the center. To p beans with 1 cooked tortilla. Place fried eggs side-by-side on the tortilla. Top eggs with a second cooked tortilla. Pour remaining Tomato Sauce over tortilla. Sprinkle with ham and peas . Arrange cooked banana or plantain slices o n top. Serve immediately. M akes 1 serving.

How To Make Huevos Motulenos

Spread some tomato sauce on a plate. Top with black beans and a fried torti lla.

Continue layering with fried eggs, a second tortilla, tomato sauce, ham, peas and banana or plantain sl ices.

Eggs

Huevos Ra ncheros Eggs Ranch -Style

Sprinkle refried beans with shredded cheese and serve on the side.

Sal sa P icante de Carmen , page 36 Veget able oil for fryi ng

6 corn tortil l as 1 2 eggs

Prepare salsa , red ucing chiles to 1 or 2 if a m ilder sauce is desired; keep hot. Pour oil 1 /4 i nch deep into a medium skillet. H eat to 365°F ( I 8 5°C ) . Fry tortillas until crisp and lightly browned . Drain on paper towels; keep warm. Remove all but a little oil from skillet. Fry eggs sunny-s ide up. Place 2 eggs on each tortilla. Top with 1 /3 cup salsa. Serve immediately. Makes 6 servings .

H uevos al Vallejo Eggs Val lejo-Sty le

Named for an old California family, this recipe has its origins in Spain.

1 tabl espoon butter 1 small onion , sl iced 2 Californ i a chiles, roasted, peeled , or 2 canned w hole green chiles, cut i nto s hort strips

1 (1 6-oz.) can whole tomatoes, undrai ned Salt and pepper 6 eggs

Heat butter in a large skillet. Add onion. Cook until tender but not browned. Stir in chile strips and tomatoes. Cook 5 m i nutes, breaking up tomatoes with a spoo n . Add salt and pepper to taste. Break eggs one at a time into a saucer and slide into hot tomato m ixture. Cover and simmer 5 min u tes or u n til egg whites are set; spoon sauce over eggs as they coo k. Makes 6 servi ngs. Variation

When eggs are almost set, top each with a slice of M on terey Jack cheese. Cover and cook until cheese is melted.

Huevos Revueltos Alban il Stonemason 's Scra mbled Eggs

Bali/los (French R olls), page 1 61, or plain white rolls are usually served with this hearty breakfast.

1 teaspoon butter or veget able oil 2 eggs, beaten

2 tablespoons fi nely mashed Frijoles Refritos made with bl ack beans, page 1 49

Heat butter or oil in skillet over medium-h igh heat. Add eggs . Cook and stir until set . Stir in beans. Cook u ntil heated through. Makes 1 serving.

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Eggs

Huevos a la Malaguena Eggs Malaga -Style

The name may be Spanish, but the chiles indicate this dish is Mexican.

3 cups Salsa Roja for Picadas, omitting hot chiles, page 1 03 4 Californ ia chiles , roasted , peeled, or 4 canned whole green chiles 2 thin s l ices cooked ham, diced

1 /4 cup drained can ned , cooked fresh, or th awed frozen peas 8 eggs 4 s l ices bacon, cooked 4 canned as paragus spears

Prepare Salsa Roja, omitti ng hot chiles. Cut stems from chiles. Cut as small a slit as possible in each chile and remove seeds and veins, leaving chiles whole. Preheat oven to 37 5 ° F ( l 90°C) . Place 3/4 cu p Salsa Roja i n each of 4 shallow i nd ividual baking d ishes. Add a fourth of the ham and 1 tablespoon peas to each dish; st ir. Break an egg into a saucer; slide egg gently i n to one bak­ ing d ish without breaking yolk. Break another egg into saucer; slide i t carefully into same baking dish. Repeat, placing 2 eggs side-by-side i n each dish. Top with a bacon slice, a whole chile and an asparagus spear. Ba ke 1 5 min utes o r until eggs are set as desired. Makes 4 servings.

Huevos Revueltos a la Mexicana Mexican Scra m bled Eggs

For several servings, remove vegetables before cooking eggs. Stir in vegetables as directed.

1 teaspoon vegetable oil 1 serrano ch i le or other small hot chile, seeded , chopped 1/2 small tomato, chopped

1 /4 small on ion , chopped 2 eggs, beaten Salt

H eat oil i n large skillet over medium-h igh heat. Add chile , tomato and onion. Stir-fry just until vegetables are heated through. Vegetables should remain crisp. Push vegetables to one side of skillet. Add eggs. Cook and sti r until eggs are almost set , then stir i n vegetables and cook 1 to 2 minutes lo nger. Season with salt to taste. Makes 1 serving.

Souffle de E l ote Corn Souffle

Sprinkling the baking dish with flour prevents souffle from sticking.

1 (I -lb. l -oz . > can whole- kernel corn 1/2 medium on ion , fi nely chopped 3 t ablespoons butter 3 eggs, separated

1/2 cu p chopped, peeled, roasted Californ i a chi les or canned chopped green chi les 1/2 teaspoon salt

Preheat oven to 3 7 5 ° F ( l 90°C) . Butter a 1 - 1 /2 -quart baking dish. Sprinkle lightly with flour; set aside. Drain corn . In a medium skillet, coo k onion in butter until tender. Combine drained corn , cooked onion and egg yolks in blender or food processor. Process until corn is fine. Turn out into a medium bow l. Stir in chiles and sal t . Beat egg whites in a small bowl until stiff. Fold gently but thoro ughly into corn m ixture. Turn into prepared baking d ish. Bake 1 0 m i nutes. Reduce heat to 3 50°F ( l 7 5 °C) and bake 20 to 30 minutes longer u ntil souffle is lightly browned and a knife i nserted off-center comes out clean . Cut into wedges. M akes 4 to 6 servings. 1 36

Huevos a la Malagueiia (Eggs Malaga - Style)

Eggs

fl uevos con Papas y Chorizo Eggs with Potatoes & Chorizo

Wake up to a hearty Mexican breakfast!

2 l arge baking potatoes, peeled 1 /2 l b . chorizo 1/2 cu p finely chopped onion

4 eggs 1 avocado, sliced C i lantro or parsley sprigs , if desi red

Cut potatoes into 1 I4-i nch thick slices and then in to 1 !4-inch dice . Remove chorizo from casing and place in a large skillet. Cook and mash chorizo until lightly browned and fat has melted. Add d iced potatoes and onion. Cover and cook over medium heat until potatoes are tender, about 1 5 mi n u tes. Remove lid. With the back o f a large spoo n , press 4 indentations i n m i xture. Break an egg i nto each indentation. Cover and cook u ntil eggs are set , about 5 m inutes. To serve, garnish with avocado slices and cilantro or parsley sprigs , if desi red . Makes 4 servings.

How To Make Huevos con Papas y Chorizo

Cut potatoes into 1 / 4 - inch thick slices, then 1 / 4 - i nch thick sticks before dicing.

Break eggs i nto indentations that have been made with a spoon. Cover and cook until eggs are set.

" A rroz y F rij o les Rice It' s difficult to i magine a M ex ican meal without rice and beans. They are often served se parate­ ly - rice preceding the m eat and beans following the meat. Mexican cooks are famous for their tender, dry, flaky rice - easy to d uplicate o nce you know the cooking method. R ice is often ti nted red with tomato, but that's only the beginning. Its flavor can vary fro m lightly seasoned A rroz Blanco (Wh ite R ice) to rich m i x tures with sausage , seafood and meat. So metimes the rice course is called Sopa Seca de A rroz (Dry Rice So up) which is confusing to tourists not accustomed to Mex­ ican culinary terms. Sopa here m eans a dry soup, not a wet one. For authentic M e x ican rice , use lo ng-grain rice prepared according to the method described in the fo llowing pages. In a typical M ex ican home, a pot of beans is

& Beans

always o n the stove . Beans are served whole i n their broth , plain or topped with garnishes such as cho pped onion and chile. Served this way they are Frijoles de la Gila (Beans from the Pot) . Or they may be fried and mashed in lard or oil to make Frijoles R efritos (Refried Beans) . Broth from beans is occasionally used to make so up or as a substitute for water or broth when making rice . While beans and rice are usually served separate­ ly, my Veracruz friends mix black beans and white rice and call the dish casamiento, or mar­ riage, the combining of the two ingred ients. M any types of beans are grown in Mexico. Some o f t heir names a re bayo gordo, parraleiio, 0)0 de liebre, flor de mayo and canario. Each bean type differs in appearance. In southern Mexico , black beans predominate . Elsewhere, pinto beans are co mmon. Unless I specify another type of bean , use pinto beans with the recipes in this book.

L UNCH AT THE B O R D E R Guacamole (Guacamole) Totopos (Corn Chips) Enchiladas de Queso (Cheese Enchiladas) Arroz Rojo (Red Rice) Frijoles Refritos (Refried Beans) Helado 0 N ieve (Ice Cream or Sherbet)

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1 39

Rice [, Beans

HOW TO COOK RI CE This method is only for long-grain rice - not con verted or instan t rice . U s e 2 cups of cooking liquid to I cu p of rice. I f y o u u s e tomato sauce or pureed tomatoes , measure them with the cooking liquid so you won 't have too much liquid. Ri nsing- Rice is en riched by coating the grains with n utrien ts. Altho ugh these n utrients are re m o v e d w h e n r ice is r i n sed , the m e t h o d described here is com m only used in Mex ico . With other methods, the rice will be starch ier than M e x ican rice. Place the rice in a large bowl and cover with very hot tap water. Let i t stand 1 0 t o 1 5 mi n utes. Then rub and squeeze rice with you r fingers un til the water is cloudy. D rain the rice i n a strainer. Return the rice to the bowl. Cover i t with cold water. Rub and squeeze it again , t h en drain . Re peat the 'cold water and drai n i ng process once more or as many times as it takes to get the water fairly clear. D rain the rice thoroughly and spread it on a platter to dry. You can use rice while i t is still wet, but there is danger

of spattering hot oil when wet rice is added to the skillet. R ice usually takes I hour or more to dry. Fryi ng - When you are ready to cook rice , heat the lard , oil or butter and oil in a large pot, D utch oven or deep skillet with a tight-fitting lid . Add the rice . Stir it frequently until it is lightly browned. If you are using onion and garlic, add them to the pot as the rice begins to brown . Con­ tinue to stir often. Cooki ng Li quid While the rice is browning, heat the cooking liquid to m in imize the danger of spattering and steaming when it contacts hot rice. When all the rice is lightly browned , carefully pour the hot cooking liquid into the pot. Cover and boil vigorously for 3 to 5 minu tes, until the liquid is absorbed by the rice but the rice is still quite m o ist. Steam ing - Place the pot over very low heat. If necessary , place an asbestos heat diffuser on the burner t o reduce the heat. Let the rice steam until it is tender, 3 0 to 45 m i nutes. Fluff steamed rice with a fork before servi ng. -

Arroz a la Mexicana Rice Mexican-Style

Traditional Mexican rice is colored with tomato and other vegetables.

1 cup long-grain rice 1 garlic clove 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons lard or vegetable oil 1 small onion , chopped 2 tomatoes , peeled, chopped (1/2 lb.)

1 cu p water 1 cup ch icken broth 1 /3 cu p frozen peas, th awed 1 small carrot , peeled , cooked , diced 1 /2 teaspoon salt

Prepare rice accord ing to the d irections above. Mash garlic with 1 1 2 teaspoon salt to make a paste � set aside. Heat lard or vegetable oil in a large pot or D u tch oven. Add rice. Cook and stir over medium heat until lightly browned. Add onion and garlic paste . Cook and stir until onion is tender. Add tomatoes. Cook and stir until tomatoes are softened and blended into rice mixture . A d d water. Cover a n d simmer u n t i l water is absorbed. S t i r i n broth, peas , carrot a n d 1 1 2 teas­ poon salt . Cover and �immer until most of the liquid is absorbed , 3 to 5 minutes. Red uce heat to very low and steam 30 to 45 minutes until rice is tender. Makes 4 servings. 1 40

Rice & Beans

Soak rice in hot water, then rub between your fingers. The water will become mi lky.

How To Cook Rice

Draining rice and spreading in a thin layer to dry reduces spattering when rice is fried.-

Fry and stir rice in oil, butter or lard until browned.

Rice f, Bea ns

Arroz Ch icano Rice Chicano- Style

A Mexican-A merican cook 's shortcut for A rroz a la Mexicana.

1 2 2 1

cup long-grain rice tablespoons vegetable oil cups hot w ater (to-1 /2-oz.) can vegetable beef soup

1 teaspoon onion salt 1 /4 teaspoon onion powder 1 /4 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crushed

Prepare rice according to How to Cook R ice , page 1 40. Heat oil in a large pot or D u tch ove n . Add rice. Cook and stir over medium heat u ntil browned. Add 1 cup hot water and soup. R inse soup can with remai ning 1 cup hot water and add to rice with onion salt, onion powder and o regano . Stir well. Cover a n d si mmer until m ost o f t h e liquid i s absorbed. Reduce heat t o very low and steam 30 to 45 minutes , u ntil rice is tender. Makes 4 servings.

Arroz Instante Qu ick Mexican Rice

When you don 't have time to cook rice from scratch, try this.

1 med i u m onion 1 garlic clove 1 /2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon bacon drippings 1 (8- 1 /4-oz . ) can stewed tomatoes

1/2 cup chicken broth 1 /2 teaspoon chi l i powder 1 /8 teaspoon ground cu m i n 1 c u p instant rice

Cut onion in h alf. Finely chop 1 half. Cut the other half i n very thin slices. M ash garlic with salt to make a paste. H eat bacon drippings i n a m edium saucepan . Add chopped on ion and garlic paste. Cook and stir u n til o nion is tender. Add stewed tomatoes, chicken broth , chile powder and cumi n . M ash tomatoes with a masher o r the back of a spoon . Bring m ixture to a boil. Stir i n rice and sliced onion. Cover and let stand over very low h eat 1 5 to 20 m in u tes or u ntil liquid is absorbed. Use an asbestos heat d i ffu ser if necessary to maintain very low heat . Makes 4 servings.

Arroz Rojo Red R ice

If the cooked rice is dry, sprinkle it with a little warm broth or water.

1 - 1 /2 cups long-grai n rice 1 garlic clove 3/4 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoon s vegetable oil

1 /2 medium onion , fi nely chopped 1 (8-oz.) can tomato sauce 2 cups ch icken broth

Prepare rice according to How to Cook R ice , page 1 40 . Mash garlic with salt to make a paste . Heat oil i n a large pot or Dutch oven. Add rice. Cook and stir over medium heat until lightly browned . Add onion and garlic paste . Cook and stir u ntil onion is tender. Stir in tomato sauce and chicken broth . Cover and simmer until m ost of the liquid is absorbed. Reduce heat to very low and steam 3 0 to 45 m i n utes u ntil rice is tender. M akes 6 servings. 1 42

Rice & Bean s

Sopa Seca de Arroz Dry Rice Sou p Sopas secas, o r d,y soups, are rice or pasta dishes served without broth or other liquid.

1 cup long-grain rice 1 garlic clove 1/2 teas poon salt 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 small onion, chopped 2 cups chicken broth 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 1 /2 teas poon chopped fresh marj oram or oregano, if desired .

Prepare rice accord ing to How to Cook R ice, page 1 40. M ash garlic with 1 12 teaspoon salt to make a paste; set aside. H eat butter and oil in a large pot or D u tch oven . Add rice. Cook and stir over medium heat u ntil lightly browned. Add onion and garlic paste. Cook and stir until onion is tender. Add chicken broth, parsley and marjoram or oregano, if desired. Cover and simmer u n til most of the liquid is absorbed. Taste and add more salt, if needed . Reduce heat to very low and steam 3 0 to 45 m i n utes , until rice is tender. M akes 4 servings.

Arroz con Chiles

R ice with Chi les

R ice with cheese and chiles as served at a restaurant in Guanajuato.

1 cup long-grain rice 2 California chiles, roasted, pee led, or 2 canned w hole green chiles 1 garlic clove 1/2 teaspoon salt

3 1 2 2

t ablespoons vegetable oil sm all onion , fi nely chopped cups chicken broth oz. Monterey J ack cheese, shredded ( I / 2 cup)

Prepare rice accord ing to How to Cook R ice , page 1 40 . Cut chiles into thin strips 1 to 1 - 1 /2 inches long. Mash garlic in 1 / 2 teaspoon salt to form a paste . H ea t oil i n a large pot or Dutch ove n . Add rice. Cook and stir u ntil ligh tly browned. Add onion and garlic paste . Cook and stir until o n ion is tender. Add chile strips and broth. Cover and simmer u ntil most of the liquid is absorbed. Reduce h eat t o very low; steam 3 0 to 45 m i nutes, u n til rice is tender. Taste and add more salt if needed. Before serving, toss rice with a fork and stir in cheese. Cover and steam over very low heat until cheese is melted, about 5 m i nutes. Makes 4 servings.

1 43

Rice G Beans

A rroz con Chorizo Rice w i th Chorizo

Use the oil below only with homemade Chorizo, page 1 1 2. Other chorizo has a lot offat.

1 cup long-grain rice 1/4 lb. chorizo 1 /4 cup vegetable o i l 1 /3 c u p chopped onion 1 med i u m tom ato, peeled , chopped

1 /4 cup frozen peas 2 cu ps chicken broth Salt Avocado s lices , if des ired Tomato wedges , if desired

Prepare rice acco rding to H o w to Cook R ice , page 1 40. Remove casing from chorizo � d iscard cas­ ing. H eat 2 tablespoons oil in a large pot or D u tch oven. Add chorizo . Fry over medium heat u n til browned, stirring to keep cru mbly. Remove chorizo fro m pot, set aside. Add remain ing 2 tables­ poons oil t o pot. Add rice . Cook and stir over medium heat 3 to 5 m inutes. Add onion . Cook and stir u ntil o nion is tender. Add tomato. Cook and stir u n til tomato can be mashed into rice. Add browned chorizo, peas and broth. Cover and simmer until m ost of the liqu id is absorbed . R ed uce heat to very low and steam 30 to 45 m inutes, until rice is tender. Taste and add salt, if n eeded. Garnish with avocado slices and tomato wedges, if desired. M akes 4 servings.

Arroz Cata l i n a R ice Catal i na - Style

You won 't be able to taste the mint, but it brings out the fla vor of the rice.

1 - 1 /2 cups long-grai n r ice 3 tablespoons butter 1 mediu m onion , fi nely chopped 3 cu ps strong chicken broth

1 mint sprig or 1 /4 teaspoon cru shed dried leaf mint Salt

Pre pare rice according to How to Cook Rice, page 1 40. Heat butter in a large pot or D u tch oven . Add rice . Cook and stir over medium heat u n til lightly browned. Add onion. Cook and stir until onion is tender. Add broth, m int and salt to taste. Cover and simmer u ntil most of the liquid is absorbed . Reduce heat and steam 3 0 to 45 minutes, u ntil rice is tender. Remove mint sprig� fluff rice with a fork. M akes 6 servings.

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A rroz con C horizo (Rice with C horizo)

Rice [,. Beans

Arroz Guisado Seasoned Rice

Clo ves and cinnamon add a pleasing and different taste.

1 cup long-grain rice 2 small tom atoes, peeled 0/2 lb,) 1/2 medium onion 1 garlic clove Pinch ground cloves 1/8 teaspoon grou nd cinnamon

2 tablespoons bacon drippings 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 - 1 /2 cups pork broth 1 teaspoon s alt 1 /3 cup frozen peas, thawed 1/2 cu p diced , peeled potato

Prepare rice accord ing to How to Cook Rice, page 1 40 . Combine tomatoes, onion , garlic, cloves and cinnamon in blender o r food processor� puree. H eat bacon drippings and oil i n a large pot or Dutch oven . Add rice. Cook and stir over medium h eat u ntil lightly browned . Add tomato mix­ ture. Cook and stir 3 minutes. Add broth and salt . Cover and simmer until most of the liquid is absorbed. Stir in peas and potato. Reduce heat to very low. Co ver and steam 30 to 45 m inu tes, until rice is tender. Makes 6 servings.

Arroz a la Veracruza na Rice Veracruz-Sty le Ifyou cannot reduce the heat to very low, place an asbestos heat diffuser under the pot.

1 cup long-grain rice 1 l arge garlic clove 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 med i u m onion , finely chopped

1 thin strip j al apeno chile or other small hot chile 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley 2 cu ps beef broth

Prepare rice acco rding to H ow to Cook Rice , page 1 40 . Mash garlic with salt to make a paste. H eat oil in a large pot or D u tch oven . Add rice. Cook and stir over medium heat until lightly browned. Add onion and garlic paste . Cook and stir until on ion is tender. Add chile strip, parsley and broth. Cover and simmer until most of the liquid is absorbed . Reduce heat to very low. Steam 30 to 45 mi nutes, until rice is tender. Add more sal t, i f n eeded. Makes 4 servings.

1 46

Rice [, Beans

Arroz Verde d e Zihuatanejo Green R ice from Z i h uata nejo.

Green pepper and parsley provide color.

1 cu p long-grain rice 1 large green pepper 1/2 m ediu m onion 2 garlic cloves

1 /4 cup fresh parsley leaves 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 cups ch icken broth 1 /2 teaspoon salt

Prepare rice acco rding to How to Cook Rice , page 1 40. Remove stem and seeds from green pep­ pe r. Process green pepper, onion, garlic and parsley in blender or food processor until fi nely groun d . H eat 1 tablespoon oil in a small saucepan. Add green pepper mixture. Cook and stir 2 to 3 m i n utes. H eat 2 tablespoons oil i n a large pot or D u tch oven . Add rice . Cook and stir over medium heat until ligh tly browned . Stir i n sau teed green pepper mi xture, broth and salt . Cover and simmer u ntil most of the liquid is absorbed. Reduce heat to very low. Steam 30 to 45 m i nu tes , u ntil rice is tender. Taste and add more sal t, if needed . Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Arroz Blanco Wh ite R i ce

Serve plain white rice with spicy foods or dishes that ha ve a lot of sauce.

1 cup long-grain rice 1 - 1 /2 tablespoons lard 2 medium garlic cloves , cru shed

2 cu ps water or ch icken broth 1 teaspoon salt

Prepare rice according to How to Cook R ice, page 1 40. H eat lard in a large pot or Dutch oven . Add garlic. C o ok until browned. R e m o ve garlic� discard . Ad d rice. Cook a n d st ir ov er medium heat u n til golde n . Add water or broth and salt. Cover and simmer until most of the liquid is absorbed. Red uce heat to very low. Steam 30 to 45 min utes, until rice is tender. Makes 4 serv­ ings. Variation Arroz Negro (Black Rice) : Saute 1 12 small onion , chopped , with the rice . Su bstitute black bean coo k i ng liquid for water o r broth.

�

ARROZ CON PLAT ANOS (RI CE W I T H BAN AN AS) M e x i co p ro d u ces many banana var i e t ie s , generally called pMtanos. A rroz can PMtanos (Rice with Bananas) is popu lar in the Veracruz area. There are two ways you can make this dish . The easiest way is to slice bananas di rectly on top of

coo ked rice as a garnish . Another method is to cu t bananas lengthwise into thin slices, saute them in butter or oil u n til they are browned , then place the sauteed bananas on top of cooked rice.

147

Rice [, Bea ns

HOW TO COOK BEAN S Sorting & Soak ing- Sort beans carefully to remove small stones, dirt and other foreign mat­ ter. Place the beans i n a large pot, deep saucepan or Dutch oven. Cover them generously with very hot water . Let them soak overnight. I f you don ' t have t i m e t o let them soak overnight, cover them with water and bring to a boil. Continue to boil for 2 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and let it stand for 1 hour. Soaking Liquid - Bean soaking liquid may be dis­ carded or used as cooking liquid. M ore nutrients will be retained i f beans are cooked i n their soak­ ing liquid. I f you choose this method, rinse the beans thoro ughly before soaking and cover them loosely to keep out d ust and o ther foreign matter. Cooking - Be sure beans are covered with liquid. Bring them to a boil. I f the recipe calls for garlic

and on ion , add them at this poin t . Reduce the heat. Place the lid slightly ajar on the pot. S i m mer 4 to 6 hours or until beans are completely tender when pie rced with a fork. Add hot water as needed to keep beans covered . Stir them occa­ sionally to prevent sticking and burning. S al t - There is no absolute rule to follow for adding salt to beans. Salt has a reputation for making beans tough so some cooks do not add salt until the beans are almost cooked. Others add salt during cooking, and a few cooks salt the beans when they put them in the pot. Lard - Many cooks add a spoonful of lard to beans as they cook to add flavor. I t also red uces the foam . M ost Mexican cooks use home-ren­ dered lard, which has more flavor than the pro­ cessed supermarket product.

Frijoles Sencillos Basic Beans

Follo w this method to cook any type of dried beans.

1 cu p dried pinto beans, bl ack beans or other beans H ot water 1 /4 medium onion , if desired

1 garlic clove, if desi red 1 tablesoon lard or bacon drippings Salt

Sort beans to remove rocks and other foreign matter. Place beans in a large saucepan . Add hot water to cover. Let stand covered overnight or at least 8 hours. Drain beans. R i nse� cover with fresh hot water. Bring to a boil. Add onion and garlic i f desired. Cover with lid ajar and simmer gently 2 hours. Add lard or bacon drippings and salt to taste. Cook 2 to 4 hours longer or until beans are very tender. Add more hot water if needed to keep beans covered . Makes 4 servings.

Frijoles de la Olla Beans fro m the Pot

Serve with warm f70ur tortillas or Totopos, page 30.

Frijoles Senci llos , above Salsa Mexicana, page 33, or other salsa

1 onion, chopped

Prepare Basic Beans and salsa. Serve beans with their cooking liquid in indi vidual soup bowls. Serve chopped onion and salsa separately. Makes 4 servings. 1 48

Rice [, Beans

Frijoles Refr itos

Photo on pages 86 and 8 7 .

Refried Bea ns

Topped with grated cheese and Totopos, page 30, R efried Beans are a traditional side dish.

Frij oles Sencillos , page 148 1 - 1 /2 tablespoons l ard, bacon dri ppings or vegetable oil

Sa1t

Prepare Frij oles Sencillos. Heat lard , baco n drippings or vege table oil in a large heavy skillet until very hot. Use a slotted spoon to place beans in skillet. Add a little cooking liquid. Mash beans with a potato masher or the back of a large spoon. Beans may be partial ly or completely mashed . Add salt to taste . S i m mer beans to desi red consistency , adding more cooking liquid , if needed. Stir beans frequently. M akes 4 servings. Variation

Fry beans as directed above until fairly dry. Season to taste with ch ili powder.

Frijoles al H orno Baked Beans

Look what happened to Boston baked beans in Mexico !

1 lb. dried Great Northern beans H ot w ater 1 (8-oz.) pork s houlder steak Water 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 /4 lb. cooked ham 3 s lices bacon 2 s mall tom atoes, peeled 0/2 IbJ 1 /4 cup w hi te vinegar 2 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons salt 6 peppercorns 4 whole allspice 2 whole cloves 1 O-inch} piece ci nnamon stick 1 /2 teaspoon dry mustard 1 /2 teaspoon Worcesters h i re sauce 1 bay leaf 1 medium onion

Sort beans to remove rocks and other foreign matter. Place beans in a large saucepan . Add hot water to cover. Let stand covered overnight or at least 8 hours. Drain beans and rinse wel l . Add fresh hot water to cover generously. Bring to a bo il; red uce heat . Cover with lid ajar and simmer I hour. Remove bone from pork steak. Place boned pork in a medium saucepan . Cover with wate r. Cover and cook 20 minutes. Drai n , add ing broth to bean s. Heat oil in a ski llet. Add cooked pork. Saute until browned and crisp o n the outside. Cut cooked and browned pork into small pieces. Dice ham and bacon ; set aside. Puree tomatoes in blender or food processor. Combine tomato p u re e , vi ne gar , s u g a r , sal t , pepperco rn s , al l s p i c e , c l o v e s , c i n n a m o n , d ry m u s tard , Worchestershire sauce and bay leaf in a medium saucepan . Bring to a boil; rem ove from heat. Preheat oven to 3 5 0°F (J 7 5°C) . Drain beans, reserving cooking liquid. Place beans in a large bea n pot. Stir in tomato puree mi xture , pork , ham and baco n. Place onion in center of beans. Add reserved bean liquid to cover. Cover and bake 3 to 4 ho urs, adding more bean liquid if needed. If there is too much liquid, uncover and ba ke 1 5 to 20 minu tes longer until liquid is reduced. Makes 10 servings.

1 49

Rice & Beans

Frijoles Especiales Speci a l Bea ns

R ichly seasoned beans are popular in central Mexico.

2 cups d ried pinto beans H ot water 1 small onion , cut in wedges 1 l a rge garlic clove 1 s lice bacon, diced 2 teaspoons salt

Totopos , page 30 2 tablespoons ch i l i powder 1/2 teaspoon ground cu min 2 tab lespoons l ard or vegetable oil 1 {5 . 33-oz.} can evaporated m i l k Grated Parmesan cheese

Sort beans to remove rocks and other foreign matter. Place beans in a large saucepan. Add hot water to cover. Let stand covered overn ight or at least 8 hours. D rain beans and rinse well. Add fresh hot water to cover generously. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Add onion, garlic and bacon . Cover w i t h lid ajar a n d s i m m e r 2 hours. A d d salt. S i mmer 4 ho urs longer or u n t i l beans a r e very tender. Add hot water as needed to keep beans covered. Prepare Totopos; set aside. Mix chili powder and cumin i n a small bowl. Remove 1 14 cup bean cooking liquid from saucepan. Add to chili powder mixture. M i x well and set aside. H eat lard or vegetable oil in a large heavy skillet. Use a slotted spoon to place beans in skillet. Mash until partially or completed pureed . Stir i n chili powder mixture. Add milk. Cook and stir until beans are as thick as desired . To serve , sprin kle with cheese and garnish with Totopos. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

How To Make Frijoles Especiales Blend chile powder and cumin with bean cooking liquid.

Garnish bea ns with Totopos and sprinkle w ith grated cheese.

Rice & Beans

Frij oles con Puerco Beans with Pork

To cook these Yucatan beans without soaking o vernight, see Ho w to Cook Beans, page J 48.

1 - 1 /2 cups dried black beans Hot water 1 smaJl onion 2 garlic cloves 1 lb. boneless pork

About 2 tablespoon s lime j u ice Salt 2 tablespoons lard 1 - 1 / 2 teaspoons salt Garnishes , see below

Garnishes: Salsa Roj a for Picadas, page 103. or other hot salsa 6 green onion s , with some tops , chopped Lime wedges

6 radis hes, diced 2 tomatoes , chopped (t/2 lb.) 2 fresh or pickled j alapeno chiles, sliced 1/2 cup coarsely chopped cil antro leaves

Sort beans to remove rocks and other foreign matter. Place beans in a large saucepan . Add hot water to cover. Let stand covered overnight or at least 8 hours. D rain beans and rinse well. Add fresh hot water to cover generously. Bring to a boil . Add onion and garlic. Cover with lid ajar and simmer 2 hours. Cut pork in medium ch unks. Rub each ch unk with lime juice and sprinkle light­ ly with sal t . Heat lard in a large heavy skillet. Add season ed pork. Cook until browned, about 5 minutes. Drain browned pork. Add to beans with 1 - 1 / 2 teaspoons salt. Cover and simmer 3 hours longer or until beans are tender. Add hot water as needed to keep beans covered. To ser ve , spoon pork and beans into shallow sou p bowls . Serve garn ishes separately to be added to pork and beans as desired. M akes 4 main-dish servings or 6 side-dish servings. Garni shes : Prepare Salsa R oja. Arrange green onions, lime wedges, radishes, tomatoes, chiles , cilan tro , and salsa in separate bowls.

Frijoles Negros Black Beans

It 's typical of Mexican cooking to fla vor the lard or oil with onion.

1 cup dried black beans Hot water 1 /2 sm all onion

3 tablespoons lard 1 teas poon salt 1 /3 cu p coarsely chopped onion

Sort beans to remove rocks and other foreign matter. Place beans in a large saucepan . Add hot water to cover. Let stand covered overnight or at least 8 hours. Drain beans and rinse well. Add fresh hot water to cover generously. Bring to a boil; reduce heat . Add onion half and 2 tables­ poons lard . Cover and si mmer 2 hours. Add salt. Cover and simmer 2 hours longer or until beans are tender. Add hot water as needed to keep beans co vered. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon lard in a large skillet. Add chopped onion . Cook un til browned. Remove onion from sk illet; discard onion. Add beans and their cooking liquid to sk illet . Mash to purree some but not all beans. Cook until th ickened but not dry. Makes 4 servings. 1 51

Rice [, Beans

Frijoles con Ch orizo Bea ns with Chorizo To make your o wn Chorizo. see page 1 1 2.

1 cup dried p into beans Hot water 1 / 2 small onion 1 l arge garlic clove

Salt Totopos , page 30 1 /4 lb. chorizo Grated Parmesan cheese

Sort beans to remove rocks and other fo reign matter. Place beans i n a large saucepan. Add hot water to cover. Let stand covered o vern ight or at least 8 hours. Drain beans and rinse well. Add fresh hot water to cover generously. Bring to a boil� red uce heat . Add onion and garlic. Cover with lid ajar and simmer 2 hours . Add salt to taste. S i m mer 2 to 4 hours longer or until beans are very tender. Add hot water as needed to keep beans covered. Prepare Totopos; set aside. Remove casing from chorizo. Fry chorizo in a large skillet until browned and crumbly. Use a slot­ ted spoon to add beans. Add a little cooking liquid. Mash beans i n to cooked chorizo with a Mex­ ican masher or po tato masher. Continue cooking to desired consistency. To serve , sprinkle with cheese and garnish with Totopos. Makes 4 servings.

How To Make Frijoles con Chorizo

Mash cooked beans into chorizo with a M e x ican masher or potato ma sher.

Rice & Bea ns

Frijoles Cola d a s Stra i ned Bea ns

Soupy black beans are often served with the main course in Yucatan.

1 cu p dried black beans Hot water 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 /2 cu p fi nely chopped onion 1 jalapeno chile or other small hot chile

Sort beans to remove rocks and other foreign matter. Place beans in a large saucepan . Add hot water to cover. Let stand covered overnight or at least 8 hours. D rain beans and rinse well. Add fresh hot water t o cover generously. Bring to a boil� red uce heat. Cover and simmer 2 hours. Add salt� cover and simmer 2 hours longer or until tender. Let cool. Turn beans with cooking liquid into blender� puree. S train through a sieve. Heat oil i n a medium saucepan . Add onion . Cook until onion is tende r. Add pureed beans and chile. Bring to a boil; red uce heat. Sim mer unco vered 1 5 m in utes o r unti l beans have th ickened slightly . Taste and add more salt i f needed. Remove chile . Serve beans i n small bowls as a side dish . Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Frijoles Ra ncheros Bea ns Ra nch-Style

These beans are delicious spooned o ver A rroz Blanco, page 1 4 7.

1 cup dried bl ack beans Hot water 1/4 small onion 1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 /4 small onion , finely chopped 3 or 4 thin sl ices j a lapeno chile or other small hot chile

Sort beans to remove rocks and other foreign matter. Place beans in a large saucepan . Add hot water to cover. Let stand covered overn ight or at least 8 hours. Drain beans and rinse well. Add fresh hot water to cover gen erously. Bring to a boil� red uce heat. Add onion quarter. Cover and simmer 2 hours. Add salt . Cover and simmer 2 to 4 hours longer or until beans are tender. Add hot water as n eeded to keep beans covered . H eat oil in a large sk illet. Add cho pped onion and chile. Cook over medium heat until onion is tender. Add beans and enough cooking liquid to almost cover. Mash down through beans a few times to th icken liquid. Leave most of the beans whole. Simmer u n t il th ickened but still soupy. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

1 53

Panes Breads Corn tortillas are the national bread of M exico. They are as basic to a meal as salt and salsa. But they are far fro m the o nly bread eaten in Mex­ ico - as any tourist knows. D irections fo r making corn and flour tortillas are o n pages 74 to 76. Especially popu lar are Boli/los (French Rolls) . They are softer and sweeter than Eu ropean-style French rolls. Restaurants i n Mex ico usually serve boli/los with m eals, while Mex ican restau rants outside the country stress tortillas. Then there is the imaginative array of sweet rolls, loaves, cakes and cookies k nown collective­ ly as pan dulce, or sweet bread. Each whim sically fashioned sweet bread has its own name. I have included Peineta (Com b Bread) , Cuernos (Horns) and Puros (Cigar-Shaped Rolls) and many others in this section. H otels and cafes usually offer some type o f pan dulce for breakfast , but it is more fu n to go the panaderfa, or bakery. To shop i n a panaderfa, you take a tray and tongs , then make your selection from trays heaped with bread. The en trancing variety makes i t hard to choose . You are likely to end u p with more than you can possibly eat ! Markets are good places t o see regional breads.

Roomfuls of bread at the old market near the center of Oaxaca and at the newer Mercado de A bastos are astonishing ! Particularly charming are round egg breads, each decorated with a painted face made of what looks like flour paste . Some breads are associated with important holidays. Pan de Muertos (Bread of the Dead) is baked for the Day of the Dead, celebrated November 1 and 2 . These breads are fancifully decorated with skulls, knobs, bones and tears made of dough . For Christmas, the Mexicans make Bunuelos (Fried Bread) by rolling out the dough as thin as possible and then stretching it even thinner. Bunuelos de Molde (M olded Fritters) are made by dipping a hot iron into batter and then into hot oil. The irons come in varied shapes and can be bought i n cookware departments. You can also use Scandi navian rosette irons. Traditional for Twelfth Nigh t - Janu ary 6 - is R osca de los R eyes (Ring of the Ki ngs) , a ring­ shaped bread with a tiny favor baked i nside . Accord ing to one custo m , the person who gets a slice of bread contain ing the favor must give a party on February 2, a religious holiday.

H O L I D AY BR UNCH Tijuana Tequila del sol (Tequila Sunrise) Botana de Frutas (Fruit Cup) Huevos a la JV\alaguena (Eggs Malaga-Style) Botana de Jicama (Jicama Snack) Pan de Naranja (Orange Bread) Rosca de los Reyes (Ring of the K ings) Puros (Cigar-Shaped Rolls) Cafe (Coffee)

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12 31 1 36 27 1 63 1 56 1 62

Breads

Pan de Muertos Bread of t h e Dead

Quaint dough sculpture decorates bread traditionally served on A II Soul 's Day.

1 cup milk 1 /2 cup butter, softened 1 / 2 cup sugar 1 - 1 / 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon finely grated orange peel 1 /2 teaspoon anise seeds, ground 1 envelope active dry yeast (1 t ab lespoon)

Pinch sugar 1 /4 cu p warm water 2 whole eggs 3 egg yolks 1 teaspoon water 5 - 1 /4 to 5 - 1 / 2 cups al l-pu rpose flour 2 tablespoons sugar

Scald milk by heating to just u nder boiling poin t, about 1 80°F (80°C ) . Pour over butter, 1 /2 cup sugar, salt , orange peel and ground anise seeds i n a large bowl . Stir until sugar is dissolved . Let cool. S t ir yeast and pinch of sugar into 1 14 cup warm water. Let stand until yeast is softened. Beat whole eggs and egg yolks in a small bowl. Spoon 2 tablespoons beaten eggs into another small bowl or a custard cup. Stir i n 1 teaspoon water. Refrigerate and use for glaze . Stir softened yeast and remaining beaten eggs into milk mixture. Stir eno ugh flour into m ilk mixture to make a stiff dough . Turn out onto a lightly floured su rface . Knead until smooth and elastic, at least 1 0 mi nutes, adding more flour is needed. Clean and grease bowl. Place dough i n bowl, turning to grease all s ides. C over with a dry cloth towel. Let stand i n a warm place free from drafts until doubled i n bulk, about 1 hour. Punch down dough and turn out onto surface . Let rest while greasing 2 small baking sheets. Divide dough in half. Set aside abo ut 1 /3 cup from each half. S hape large pieces of dough into smooth round loaves. Place on prepared baking sheets. Brush with some of reserved egg m ix ture. Divide 1 of the small pieces of dough into 3 equal pieces. Roll 2 pieces i n to 8- to 9-i nch ropes. S hape ends of ropes to resem ble knobs on bones. Cross bone shapes over top of one loaf, stretching to reach bottom of each side . Shape third piece of dough into a ball. M oisten bottom with egg mi xture. Place in center of crossbones , pressing fi rmly. Repeat with remain ing small piece of dough and remaining loaf. Cover loosely with towels. Let stand i n a warm place until doubled in bulk, about 45 m inutes. Preheat oven to 3 5 0°F ( l 75 °C) . Brush loaves evenly with egg mixture. Sprinkle each loaf with 1 tablespoon sugar. Bake 30 to 3 5 minutes or u ntil browned . R emove fro m baking sheet � cool on racks. Makes 2 loaves.

How To Make Pan de Muertos

Flatten e nds of ropes to resemble k nobs on bones. C ross and stretch ropes over top of loaf.

Breads

Rosca d e los Reyes R in g of the K i ngs

R ing-shaped s weet bread is usually served on Twelfth Night.

1 /3 cup water 1 teaspoon anise seeds 1 envelope active dry yeast ( 1 tablespoon) Pinch granulated sugar 1 /3 cup warm m i l k About 4 c u p s all-purpose flour 2 whole eggs

4 egg yolks 1 teaspoon water 1 /4 lb. butter, softened 1 /4 cu p granulated sugar 1 /2 teas poon salt 1/4 lb. m ixed candied fru it, chopped 2 to 3 tablespoons powdered sugar

Bring water and anise seeds to a boil in a small saucepan . R emove from heat� let cool. Strai n � dis­ card seeds . Reheat water until warm to your fingers . Stir in yeast and pi nch of granulated sugar. Let stand until yeast is softened. Combine softened yeast, m il k and 1 cup flour i n a medium bowl , beating until blended. Cover and let stand u ntil mixture rises and beco mes spongy. Beat whole eggs and egg yolks in a small bowl. Spoon 2 tablespoons beaten eggs into another small bowl or a custard cup. Stir in 1 teaspoon water. Refrigerate and use to glaze bread before bak ing. I n a large bow l , beat butter, remaining beaten eggs , 1 14 cup gran ulated sugar and salt to combine. Stir in sponge mi xture. Add enough remai ning flour to make a stiff dough . Turn out onto a light­ ly floured surface. Knead at least 10 m inutes or until smooth and elastic. Add additional flour if needed . Clean and grease bowl. Place dough in bowl, turning to grease all sides. Cover with a dry cloth towel. Let stand i n a warm place free fro m drafts u ntil doubled in bulk, about 1 hour. Punch down dough . Turn out onto surface and k nead 5 times. Let rest while greasing a large baking sheet . Roll out dough to a 24" x 1 0" rectangle . Sprinkle evenly with candied fru i t , leaving edges clear. Roll up jelly-roll fashion from long edge . Place on prepared bak ing sheet seam-side down, bringing ends together to form a ring. Pinch e nds to seal. Lightly cover with towel. Let stand u ntil almost doubled in bulk , abou t 1 hour. Preheat oven to 3 50°F (I 7 5 °C) . Before baking, brush loaf evenly with reserved egg m ix ture. Sift powdered sugar over loaf. Bake 3 5 to 45 m inutes or until browned. I f loaf becomes dark brown befo re 3 5 m in utes, cover loosely with foil to prevent add i­ tional brown i ng . Remove from baking sheet immediately. Cool o n a rack . Makes 1 loaf.

1 56

Breads

Sem a s Semas

Like tortillas, these sweet round loa ves have no equivalent name in English.

1 cu p m i l k 6 tablespoons butter, softened 1 / 2 cup sugar 1 teas poon salt 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 en velope acti ve dry yeast (1 tablespoon)

Pi nch sugar 1 /4 cu p warm water About 4- 1 / 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 egg yolks 1 egg, separated 2 teas poon s water

Scald milk by heat ing to j ust under boiling po int abo ut 1 8 0°F (80°C ) . Pour hot scalded milk over butter, 1 12 cup sugar and salt i n a large bowl. Stir to dissolve sugar. Cool to lu kewarm . Stir in vanilla. Stir yeast and pinch of sugar into 1 /4 cup warm water. Let stand until yeast is softe ned. Beat 2 cups o f flour i nto cooled m ilk mi xture. Beat in softened yeast and 3 egg yolks Refrigerate egg white. Add enough remai ni ng flour to milk m ixture to make a stiff dough . Turn out onto a lightly flou red surface . Knead until smooth and elastic, at least 1 0 minutes. Add more flour if needed . Clean and grease bowl. Place dough in bowl , turning to grease all sides. Cover with a dry cloth towel. Let stan d in a warm place free from drafts until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour. Punch down dough . Turn o u t onto surface and knead 5 times. Let dough rest while greasing 2 bak ing sheets. D ivide dough in half. Knead each half 5 times. Roll out 1 piece of dough to an 8-inch cir­ cle . Use a razor blade or very sharp k n ife to make four l /2-i nch deep slashes 4 inches long, mark­ ing a 4-i nch square in center of loaf. Repeat with remain ing dough. Place loaves on prepared bak­ ing sheets. Cover loosely with towels . Let stand i n a warm place until dou bled in bulk , about 45 minutes. Preh eat oven to 3 50°F (J 7 5 °C) . Beat reserved egg white with 2 teaspoons water. Brush loaves even ly with egg white m ixture. Bake 25 to 30 minutes or until browned and loaves sound hollow when tapped on top. Remove fro m bak ing sheets. Cool on racks. Makes 2 loaves.

Chu rros Mex ica n Crul lers

Brought to Mexico by the Spaniards, Ihese crullers are often served wilh hOI chocolale.

Oil for frying 1 cup water 6 tablespoons butter 1/8 teas poon salt

1 cup all-purpose flour 3 eggs 1 /4 teaspoon cinn amon or nutmeg About 1 cu p powde red sugar

Pour oil 1 inch deep into a 1 0- i nch skillet. H eat to 3 7 0°F ( J 90°C) . Bring water to a boil in a 2quart saucepan . Add butter and salt. H eat until butter is melted. Add flour all at once ; rem ove from heat . Beat until m i x ture is sm ooth and is the consistency of mashed potatoes. Beat in one egg at a time. When smooth, beat i n cinnamon or nu tmeg. Turn mixture into a pastry bag fitted with a star tip. Squeeze directly into hot oil, mak ing chu rros abo u t 8 inches long. Cook 3 or 4 at a time u ntil a deep golden brown� turn occasionally . Drain over skil let, then on pape r towels . Sift powdered sugar over churros . Se rve immed iately. Do not store . Makes 1 6 ch urros.

1 57

Breads

Peineta Com b Bread

The shape of this bread inspired the name peineta, which means a large, fancy comb.

1 cu p m i l k 1 /2 c u p vegetable shortening 2 tablespoons sugar 2 teaspoons salt 3/4 cup hot tap water Pinch sugar

1 envelope active dry yeast (t tablespoon) 1 /4 cup warm water About 5-3/4 cu ps all-purpose fl our 1 egg

Scald m il k by heating to j ust u nder boiling point, about 1 80°F (80°C ) . Pour hot scalded milk over shorten ing, 2 tablespoons sugar and salt in a large bowl. Stir u ntil sugar is dissolved . Stir i n 3/4 cup hot tap water� shortening does not need to melt. Cool to lukewarm . Stir pinch o f sugar and yeast into 1 14 cup warm water. Let stand until yeast is softened. Beat 2 cups flour into cooled milk mi xture. Beat i n softened yeast and egg. Add enough remaining flour to make a stiff dough . Turn out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until smooth and elastic, at least 10 minutes. Add more flo ur if needed. Clean and grease bowl. Place dough in bowl, turning to grease all sides. Cover with a dry cloth towe l . Let stand in a warm place free from drafts u ntil dou bled i n bulk, abou t 1 hour. Pu nch down dough . Turn out onto su rface. Knead 5 times. Let dough rest while greasing 1 large and 1 small baking sheet. D ivide dough into 3 pieces. Roll out 1 piece of dough to a 9-inch circle. Use sharp k itchen shears o r a sharp knife to make 3/4-inch long cuts every 1 12 inch around edge of circle. Fold circle i n half, bringing upper edge even with ends of cuts i n bottom edge of dough . Repeat with remaining dough . Place 2 loaves on prepared large baking sheet and 1 loaf on prepared small bak i ng sheet. Shape fo lded side of each loaf making a sharp crescen t with cut edges o n the outside . Cover with towel. Let stand i n a warm place u ntil dou bled in bulk, about 45 minutes. Preheat oven to 3 5 0°F (I 7 5 °C) . Place 1 bak ing sheet i n oven at a time. Bake 2 5 minutes or u ntil loaves are browned and sound hollow when tapped on top. Remove bread from baking sheets immediately. Cool on racks. M akes 3 loaves.

How To Make Peineta

Make 3/4- inch long cuts every 1 /2 inch around edge of dough. Fold nearly i n half; shape like a curved comb. 1 58

Breads

Sem ita s

Photo on page 1 60.

Whole-Wheat Rolls

Sugaty toppings add to the appeal of these rich, dark rolls.

3/4 cup m i l k 1 (3- i n ch) ci n n amon stick 1 /2 cup packed dark brown sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 /4 cup vegetable shorte n i ng 3 /4 cup warm water

1 en velope act ive dry yeast (I t ablespoon) Pi nch granulated sugar 1 /4 cup warm water 2 - 1 /2 cups all-purpose flou r , 2-1 / 2 cups whole-wheat flour Brown Sugar Gl aze, see below

Brown Sugar Glaze: 1 /2 cu p packed dark brown sugar 1 /4 cup water

Scald milk by heating to just under boiling poin t, about 1 80°F (80°C ) . Place cinnamon stick in blender and process at high speed u ntil fine ly ground. Cinnamon will be flakes- not powder. Pour hot scalded mi l k over 1 teaspoon flaked cinnam o n , brown sugar, sal t and shorten ing in a large bowl . Reserve remaining cinnamon for another use. Stir until sugar is dissol ved and shor­ teni ng is softened; shortening does not need to melt. Add 3/4 cu p warm water. Let stand u n til cooled . Stir yeast and pinch gran ulated sugar into 1 14 cup warm water. Let stand until yeast is softened. Stir softened yeast into cooled milk mix ture. S tir all-pu rpose flour into milk m i xture to make a thick batter; beat well. Cover with a dry cloth towel. Let stand i n a warm place free from drafts until batter rises and becom es spongy. Beat agai n . Stir in enough whole-w heat flour to make a stiff dough. Turn out o n to a surface sprinkled with whole-wheat flour. Knead dough u ntil smooth and elastic, at least 10 minutes. Add more whole-wheat flour if needed. Clean and grease bowl . Place dough in bowl, turning to grease all sides. Cover with towel. Let stand in a warm place u n til doubled in bul k , abou t 1 hour. Pu nch down do ugh . Turn out onto su rface and knead 5 times. Let rest while greas ing 2 baking sheets. D i vide dough into 1 8 pieces. Sh ape each piece into a smooth ball. Place balls on prepared baking sheets. Press down with heel of hand to flatten . Cover loosely wi t h towel. Let stand in a warm place u n t il doubled in b u lk, abou t 45 min utes. Preheat oven to 3 5 0° F (I 7 5 °C) . Bake 20 min utes or until rolls are golden brown. Prepare Brown Sugar Glaze ; keep warm . Brush hot baked rolls with glaze . Remove glazed rolls from baking sheets. Cool o n racks. M akes 18 rolls. Brown Sugar Gl aze : Bring sugar and water to a boil in a small saucepan . Boil about 1 minu te. Vari ations

Mound 1 1 2 teaspoon brown sugar on center top o f each roll before baking. Bake 20 min utes. Brush bare portions of rolls with warm glaze . M ound 3/4 teaspoon brown sugar on top of each baked roll . Carefully drop 1 or 2 drops water onto sugar. Bake 2 mi nutes. Do not glaze . Cool o n racks .

1 59

Breads

Bolillos French Rolls

Mexican-style French rolls should not be o verbaked or they 'll become hard.

1 - 1 /2 cups boiling water 1 /4 cu p l ard 2 t ablespoons sugar 1 - 1 /2 teaspoons salt 1 envelope active dry yeast (1 tablespoon)

P i nch sugar 1 /4 cup warm water Abou t 5 cups all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon salt di ssol ved i n 4 teaspoons water

Pour 1 - 1 12 cu ps boiling water over lard , 2 tablespoons sugar and 1 - 1 12 teaspoons salt in a large bowl. S tir u ntil sugar and salt are dissolved . Let stand until lard m elts and mix ture cools. Stir yeast and pinch of sugar into 1 14 cu p warm water. Let stand u ntil yeast is softened . Add softened yeast to cooled lard m ix ture. Beat in 2- 1 /2 cups flour to make a stiff batter. Cover and let stand in a warm place u n til batter rises and becom es spongy. Stir i n enough flour to make a stiff dough . Turn o u t o n to a lightly flo ured surface . Knead until smooth and elastic, about 1 0 m inutes. Add additional flour i f n eeded . Clean and grease bowl. Place dough i n bowl, turning to grease all sides. Cover with a dry cloth towel. Let stand i n a warm place free from drafts until dou bled in bulk, about 1 h o ur. Punch down dough. Turn out onto su rface and knead 5 times. Let rest while greas­ ing 2 baking sheets. D i vide dough into 1 0 pieces . Shape each piece of dough into a rectangle, pinching and pulling ends into points. Place rolls on prepared baking sheets. Cover loosely with towel. Let rise u n til doubled i n bulk , about 45 m i nutes. Preheat o ven to 3 7 5 °F ( I 90°C) . Before baking, brush each roll lightly with salt water. Bake 20 to 25 minutes or until browned and crusty. Remove fro m baking sheets. Cool on racks. M akes 1 0 rolls.

Torrej a s Bread Fritters

Prepare the syrup the night be/ore, then serve Torrejas like French toast.

3 Bolillos , above, or French roll s 1 / 2 lb. piloncillo or 1 c u p p l u s 2 tablespoons packed b rown sugar 1 - 1 / 2 cups water 1 teaspoon anise seeds

2 tablespoons brandy 3 eggs, separated M ilk Oil for deep-frying

Stir pilconcillo o r brown sugar, water and anise seeds in a medium saucepan over medium heat until a sy rup forms. Remove from heat. Stir i n brandy; cool. Strain syrup; discard seeds. Cut off pointed ends of each bolillo or French roll. Cut vertically in I / 3 -inch thick slices. Beat egg whites in a medium bowl u n til stiff. Beat egg yolks i n a small bowl. Stir into beaten egg white until just blended . Pour o i l about 1 /2 inch deep into a large skillet. Heat oil to 365°F ( 1 85°F) . Dip each bread slice in milk. D rain slightly. Use a spatula to spread egg mixt ure over both sides of bread. Fry bread slices i n hot oil until golden brown on each side. Drain on paper towels, then arrange on platter. H eat syrup and spoon over slices. Let stand until syrup is absorbed. Makes 4 servings.

O n the silver bread tray from left to right are Pan de N a ranja (Orange Bread), page 1 63 ; Bolil los (French Rolls), a bove ; P icones (Oval Rolls), page 1 64, and Semitas (Whole-Wheat Rolls), page 1 59 .

1 61

Breads

P U fOS Cigar-Shaped Rol l s Raspberry jam is the surprise filling.

3/4 cu p m i l k 1 tablespoon molasses 1 /4 cup packed dark brow n sugar 1 /4 cu p vegetable shortening 1 teaspoon salt 3/4 cu p hot water 1 envelope active dry yeast (1 tablespoon)

P inch granu lated sugar 1 /4 cu p warm water 2 cu ps whole-wheat flour 1 egg About 3- 1 /3 cu ps all-purpose flour About 1 /3 cu p ras pberry j am 1 egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon water Sesame seeds

Scald milk by heating to just u nder boiling point, about 1 80°F (80°C) . Pou r hot scalded milk over molasses , brown sugar, shortening and salt in a large bowl . Stir until brown sugar dissolves; shor­ ten ing does not need to melt. Add 3/4 cu p hot water . Let m ixture stand until lu kewarm . Stir yeast and pinch of granulated sugar into 1 14 cup warm water. Let stand until yeast is softened. Beat whole-wheat flour into milk m ix ture . Beat in softened yeast and 1 egg. Stir in enough all­ purpose flour to make a stiff dough. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface . Knead until smooth and elastic, abo u t 10 m inutes. Add additio nal flour if needed. Clean and grease bowl. Place dough i n bowl , turn ing to grease all s ides. Cover with a dry cloth towel. Let stand i n a warm place free fro m drafts. u n ti l doubled in bulk, abo u t 1 hour. Line 2 large baking sheets with foi l . Grease foil; set aside. Pu nch do w n dough . Turn out o nto surface a nd knead 5 t im e s. D ivide dough int o 3 parts. Work with 1 part at a time, keeping rest of dough covered . Divide 1 part into 7 pieces. On a lightly floured board , roll o u t each piece to a 6 " x 3 - 1 12 " oval. Spread 3 /4 teaspoon jam o ff­ cen ter down length of each oval , keeping ends clear. S tarting from long side of dough nearest jam , roll u p jelly-roll fashion. Place seam-side down on prepared baking sheets. Repeat with remaining dough . Cover rolls loosely with towel. Let stand in a warm place u n til just dou bled in bu lk , a b ou t 45 m inu tes. Preheat o ve n to 3 5 0° F ( 1 7 5 °C) . Before baking, brush rolls wit h egg­ water m i xture. S prinkle lightly with sesame seeds. Bake 20 minutes or until browned well and rolls sound h ollow when tapped on top. Remove from baking sheets immediately. Cool on racks. Makes 21 rolls.

How To Make Puros

Spread jam off-center down length of each ova l ; rol l u p . P lace seam - side d o w n on prepared baking sheets. 1 62

Breads

Pan de Na ra nja

Photo o n page 1 60.

Ora nge Bread YOll 'II love these tender, ora nge-jla vored s weet rolls.

1 /2 cup m i l k 1 / 2 cu p sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 /4 cup lard or butter 1 teaspoon grated orange peel 1 /4 cu p orange j u ice 1 envelope active dry yeast (I t ablespoon)

Pi nch sugar 1/2 cup warm water 5 - 1 /2 to 5-3/4 cups al l- purpose flour 3 eggs 1 tablespoon orange j u ice Granulated sugar

Scald milk by heating to just under boiling point, about 1 80°F (80°C ) . Pour hot scalded milk over 1 12 cup sugar, sal t , lard o r butter and orange peel i n a large bowl. Stir until sugar is dissolved . Let stand until lard is almost melted. Stir i n 1 14 cup orange j u ice . Let cool to lukewarm . Stir yeast and pinch o f sugar i n to warm water . Let stan d un til yeast is softened. Add softe ned yeast to milk mix­ ture. Beat in en ough flour to make a thick batter, about 2- 1 12 cups. Cover and let stand until mix­ ture rises and becomes spongy. Beat eggs in a small bowl . S poon 1 tablespoon beaten eggs into another s mall bowl o r a custard cup� refrigerate. Stir down sponge . Stir beaten eggs into sponge. Add enough remaining flour to make a stiff dough . Turn dough out onto a ligh tly flou red surface. Knead until smooth and elastic, about 1 0 minutes. Add additional flour if needed . Clean and grease bowl. Place dough in bowl , turning to grease all sides. Cover with a dry cloth towel. Let stand in a warm place free from drafts u n til do ubled i n bul k , about I hour. Punch down do ugh . Turn out onto surface and knead 5 times. Let rest while greasing 2 or 3 baki ng sheets. D ivide dough into 1 8 pieces. Gen tly roll each piece o f dough into a 1 2- to 1 4-inch rope, keeping hands lightly greased with lard while rolling. S hape each rope i n to a coil, tucking end underneath . Place on baking sheets. Cover loosely with towels. Let stand in a warm place until doubled in bulk, about 45 mi n utes. Preheat oven to 3 5 0°F (I 75 °C) . Stir 1 tablespoon orange ju ice into reserved beaten eggs . Brush rolls lightly with egg m i xture, then sprinkle evenly with gran ulated sugar. Bake 1 5 m i n u tes o r until lightly browned. Remove from baking sheets immed iately. Cool on rack s. Makes 1 8 large rolls.

1 63

Breads

Picones

Photo o n page 1 60.

Ova l Rolls

Look for red sugar crystals in the cake decorating section of the supermarket.

1 cup m i l k 6 tablespoons butter, softened 1 /2 cup sugar 1 teaspoon s alt 1 envelope active dry yeast, (t tablespoon) P i nch sugar Topping: 4 tablespoons butter 1 / 2 cup sugar

1 /4 cup warm water About 4-1/2 cu ps all-purpose flour 3 egg yolks Topping, see below Beaten egg , reserved from topping 1 to 2 teaspoons red sugar crystals

2 eggs, beaten 1/2 cu p all-purpose flour

Scald milk by heating to just u nder boiling point, about 1 80°F ( 80°C ) . Pou r hot scalded milk over butter, 1 12 cu p sugar and salt i n a large bowl. Stir u n til sugar d issolves. Let stand until cooled. Stir yeast and pinch of sugar into warm water. Let stan d until yeast is softened. Beat 2 cups of flour into cooled milk m i x ture . Beat in egg yolks 1 at a time. Stir i n softe ned yeast. Add enough remaining flour t o make a stiff dough . Turn out onto a l ightly flou red su rface. Knead until smooth an"d elastic, at least 10 minutes. Add more flour i f needed. Clean and grease bowl. Place dough in bowl, turning to grease all sides. Cover with a dry cloth towel . Let stand in a warm place free from drafts until dou bled in bulk, about I hour. Punch down dough . Turn out onto surface and k nead 5 times. Let rest while greasing 2 baking sheets. Divide dough into 1 2 pieces. Shape each piece into an oval, pinching and pulling ends into po ints. Place on baking sheets, pressing with heel of hand to flatte n. Cover loosely with a towel. Let stand i n a warm place until do ubled in bulk, about 45 minutes. Preheat oven to 3 5 0°F (I 7 5°C ) . Prepare Topping. When rolls have risen , bru s h wi t h reserved e g g fro m Topping. D i vide topping into 1 2 parts. S hape each part i n t o a flat oval. Place 1 oval on ce nter top of each roll. Sprinkle rolls and topping with red sugar crystals. Bake 20 to 25 minutes or until rolls are browned . Remove from baking sheets. Cool on racks. Makes 1 2 rolls. Toppin g : Cream butter a n d sugar in a small bowl. Stir 2 teaspoons beaten egg i n to butter mixture. Reserve remai n ing beaten egg to glaze rolls before baking. Use a fork to press flour i n to butter m ixture un til smooth.

1 64

Breads

Cuernos Horns

Crescent-shaped loa ves are made with an ullusual cut-out desigll.

1 cup m i l k 6 tablespoons butter, softened 2 tablespoons sugar 1 - 1 / 2 teaspoons salt 1 envelope act ive dry yeast (I tablespoon)

Pinch sugar 1 /4 cu p warm water Abou t 5 - 1 / 4 cu ps all-purpose flour 4 eggs 1 teaspoon water

Scald m i l k by heating to just under boiling point, about 1 80°F (80°C) . Pour hot scalded milk over butter, sugar and salt i n a large bowl. Stir until sugar and salt are d issolved . Let stand to cool. Mix yeast and pinch of sugar with 1 14 cu p warm water. Let stand until yeast is softened. Beat 1 - ] /2 cups flour into m ilk mi xt ure. Beat in 3 eggs one at a time. Reserve 1 egg . Add softened yeast to milk mix ture. Stir in enough flour to m ake a stiff do ugh . Turn out onto a lightly floured su rface. Knead until smooth and elastic. Add additio nal flour if needed . C lean and grease bow l. Place dough in bowl, turn i ng to grease all sides. Cover with a dry cloth towel. Let stand in a warm place away fro m drafts u ntil doubled in bulk, abo u t 1 hour. Punch down dough . Turn out onto surface and knead 5 times. Let rest while greasing 2 baking sheets. Divide dough in 3 parts. R oll out 1 part to a 1 0-inch circle. Cut circle in half, then cut each half into 3 triangles. From center of each triangle, cut o u t a small triangle about 2 - 1 /2 i nches long; start cutting about 3/4 inch in from tip. Leave sides of large triangle at least 1 /2 i nch wide and curved edge about 1 - 1 /4 inches wide. Place cut o u t dough back in bowl . Pat and shape each la rge triangle to make smooth and even . Roll up fro m cu rved edge to tip. C urve slightly to make ends look l i ke horns. Place on pre pared baking sheets. Re peat with remaining balls of dough . Knead center cut-outs and roll out to a circle. If cir­ cle is smaller than those ro lled previously, cut into 4 triangles. Cut do ugh as directed and roll up. Shape any remaining cu t-out centers into a bun. Cover rolls loosely with towel. Let stand in a warm place u ntil dou bled in bulk, abo u t 45 minutes. Preheat oven to 3 50°F ( l 75 °C) . Beat reserved egg with 1 teaspoon water. Brush rolls with egg m ixture . Bake 1 5 mi nu tes or until golden brown. Remove from baking sheets. Cool on racks. M akes 22 to 24 rolls.

How To Make Cuernos

/

Cut a sma l l triangle from the center of each larger triangle. Roll up from curved edge to tip. 1 65

Breads

Sopa ipillas Fried Breads with Honey

Golden fried puffs are usually served with honey for dessert. Try them with cinnamon and sugar.

2 cu ps all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 tablespoon shortening

3/4 cup warm water Oil for deep-frying H oney

In a m edi u m bow l , mix flour, salt and bak i ng powder. Cut i n shortening with 2 kn ives u ntil mix­ ture resembles cornmeal. Stir in warm water until all i ngredients are moist. Turn dough out onto a lightly flo ured surface . Knead until smooth, about 5 m in utes. Cover dough with plastic wrap or a dr y towel . Let re s t at least 3 0 m i n u tes. Fo r later use, d ough m a y be placed in a plastic b a g and refrigerated 24 hours . Cut dough i n half. On a l ightly floured surface , roll out dough about 1 14 inch thick. C u t into 3- or 4-inch squares. Pour oil 3 inches deep i n to a saucepan or deep fryer. Heat to 400°F (205°C ) . Carefully drop dough squares 1 at a time into hot oil. Cook until puffed and golden brown , turning once. I f sopaipi llas do not puff i m mediately, oil is not hot enough. Drain cooked sopaipillas o n paper towels. Serve immed iately with honey. Makes 3 5 to 40.

Bufiuelos Fried Bread

Sugar-sprinkled fried pastries are traditional for Christmas alld fiestas.

Abou t 1 - 1 /4 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons sugar 1 /4 teaspoon baking powder 1 /4 teaspoon salt 1 egg

1 /4 cup m i l k 1 - 1 /2 tablespoons butter, mel ted 1 /2 cu p sugar 1 /2 teaspoon cin n amon Oil for frying

Combine 1 cup flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in a large bowl. Beat egg and milk i n a small bowl. Stir in butter. Add m il k m ixture to flou r m ixture, stirring until smooth. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead in about 2 tablespoons additional flour to make a very soft dough. Knead until smooth . D ivide dough into 8 parts. S hape each part into a ball . Return to bowl and cover with a dry cloth towel. Let rest 20 m i nutes. Mix 1 12 cup sugar and cinnam on ; set aside. Place 1 ball o f dough on a l ightly flo ured su rface . Press into a flat circle. Roll out into as large a cir­ cle as possible. Pick up circle and stretch gently all aro und to mak e as thin as possible. Re peat with remaining dough. Let circles rest abou t 5 minutes before frying. Pour oil I inch deep i n to a 1 0- or 1 2 -inch skillet. H eat to 3 60°F ( I 80°C ) . Carefully place J bunuelo at a time i n oil. Fry until underside i s lightly browned. Press each bunuelo down i n to oil and scoop oil over top. Turn bunuelos with tongs and fry other side u n til crisp . D rain on paper towels. Sprinkle hot bunuelos i m med iately with cinnamon -sugar m ixture. Continue u ntil all bunu elos are fried. S tore in an air­ tight container. M ak es 8 bunuelos.

1 66

Breads

Bunuelos de Molde Molded Fritters If you don 't ha ve a bWluelo iron, make these feather-light pastries with a rosette iron.

2 eggs 1 cup m il k 1 / 4 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 cup sifted all-pu rpose flour 1 tablespoon sugar

1/2 Oil 1 /2 1 /2

teaspoon salt for frying cup sugar teaspoon cin namon

Beat eggs i n a deep medium bowl. Beat i n m ilk and vanilla. Combine flour , 1 tablespoon sugar and salt in sifter. Si ft into egg m ixture. Beat thoroughly. Let stand while heating oil. Pou r oil 3/4 inch deep into a medium saucepan. H eat to 36 5 ° F ( I 8 5 °C) . Combine 1 1 2 cup sugar and cin­ namon in a small bow l; set aside. H o ld bunuelo iron o r rosette iron i n hot oil u ntil heated . Drain well, then quickly dip in batter. Let batter come all the way u p sides of i ro n but not over top or bun uelos will cling to iron. Remove immed iately from batter and place again in hot oil. As soon as batter fi rms slightly , pry bunuelo from iron with a sharp knife; set iron aside . Fry bun uelo in hot oil u ntil golden. Lift from oil with a fork; drain over saucepan then place on paper towels. S prinkle i mmed iately w ith cinnamon -sugar. Repeat with remaining batter. Serve immediately or store in an airt ight container. Makes about sixty 4-inch bunuelos.

How To Make Bufi uelos de Molde

Heat iron in hot oil. Dip in batter to coat bottom of iron.

P lace coated iron in hot oil. When batter becomes firm, carefu lly pry from iron and fry until golden brown.

Postres Desserts If you j udge by restaurant menus, the most com m o n Mex ican desserts are flan, o r caramel­ coated custard� arroz con leche, o r rice pudding� chongos, or sweetened cu rds and whey� canned fruit and ice cream. Good as they are , these desserts only hint at the vast num ber of sweets produced by native artistry and inventive ness. Some desserts are seasonal . D u ring Lent, you m u s t h a v e capirotada, or b r e a d p u d d i n g . Margarita Jimenez, from San Juan d e Los Lagos in the state of Jalisco, makes an extravagant dessert using pan dulce, or sweet bread. I ' ve included it i n this book as Capirotada de Margarita (Margarita's Bread Pudding) . A more com mon versio n , Capirotada con Queso (Bread Pudding with Cheese) , is made with leftover boli/los, or French rolls, sliced and layered with cheese, nuts and raisins, then drenched with syrup made from pi/oncil/o, or brown sugar. Cinnamon is a popular flavoring for M e x ican desserts. All markets sell bundles of cinnamon sticks, which are more widely used than the ground spice . S trong vanilla extract from Papantla i n the state of Veracruz flavors flan and other desserts. In the city of Veracruz , you may see I nd ians in

baggy white pants and voluminous white shirts. These are the Totonac I ndians who come from Papan tla bringing vanilla to sell on the streets. Vanilla is available i n supermarkets throughout Mexico. M an y desserts reflect foreign influence. French pastries are fashionable . The best pecan pie I ' ve tasted is Pie de Pacana served at the Restaurant Los Portales, a L ebanese restau rant i n Merida. Pie de L imon (Lime Pie) comes from Culiadm, the capital of the state of Sinaloa. Cajeta de Celaya (Cara m e l Candy fro m Celaya) , a soft brown candy resembling caramel topping, is ex quisite over ice cream or as a filling for crepes. A t a christening party , I had cajeta spread o n soda crackers - an excellent combina­ tion. A specialty of Celaya in the state of Guana­ juato, cajeta is made by boiling goat's m ilk , cow's milk and sugar i n an u nlined copper pot. However, it can be made entirely with cow's milk, and an ordinary saucepan will do if you don ' t have the traditional Mexican copper pot. Making cajeta is a lesson in patience because it m ust be stirred continuously , but i t is delicious and worth the effort. You can buy cajeta in several flavors in Mex ican grocery stores.

CH R I S T M A S E V E D I N N E R EnsaIada de Nochebuena (Christmas Eve Salad) PolIo a Ia Vinagreta (Chicken Vinaigrette) Arroz a Ia Mexicana (Rice Mexican-Style) Bolillos (French Rolls) Mousse de Rompope (Rum Eggnog Mousse) Cafe de Olla (Clay Pot Coffee)

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58 117 1 40 161 1 82 20

Desserts

HOW TO MAK E FLAN Caramelizing the Mold- Allow 1 12 cup sugar for a I -quart mold. For a 1 - 1 12- to 2-quart mold, use 2/3 to 3/4 cu p sugar. Place the sugar i n a 7-inch s k illet. Heat over mediu m -h igh heat until the sugar begins to melt. Reduce the heat to med i u m . Heat until the sugar is melted and golden brow n , stirring occasionally. If your ski llet or burner has a "hot spo t , " stirring w ill equalize the heat and help prevent the caramel from burning. I m m ediately spoon hot caramel over the sides and bottom of the mold; cool . Add the flan m ixture. B ak in g Place the m old containing the flan i n a large baki ng pan . Place the baking pan on the m iddle or lower rack of your oven . Pour hot water into the baking pan at least half way up the mold . Bake until a k n ife i n serted off-center comes out clean . To prevent overcooking, test the flan before the end o f the baking time, then -

test at i ntervals . Remove the flan at once fro m i ts hot-water bath and place it on a rack to cool. Refrigerate cooled flan several hours or until it's firm enough to turn out onto a serving plate. Flans in this book are baked at 3 2 5 °F ( I 65°C ) . Some cooks prefer to bake them at 3 50°F ( I 75°C ) for a shorter time. In either case, if. it begins t o brown too m uch before it is set , cover it loosely with foil. Unmoldin g - To prepare a flan for u n molding, carefu lly run a thin sharp knife around top edge to be sure it 's not sticking t o the mold. Shake gently. Place a serving plate upside-down on top of the mold, then i nvert quickly. Flan and caramel will slide onto plate. Scrape additional caramel from m old and spoon onto flan. Serve at once . Flan can be unmolded in advance and refrigerated before serving.

Flan de Cafe Coffee Fla n

A silky custard with light coffee fla vor.

1 /2 cup sugar 2 whole eggs 2 egg yolks

1 cup milk 1 ( 1 4-oz . ) can sweetened condensed milk 1 teaspoon in stant coffee powder

Heat sugar in a 7-inch skillet over m edium-high heat. When sugar begins to melt, reduce heat to med i u m . Continue to cook sugar, stirring occasionally. When sugar is melted and browned, immediately spoon over bottom and sides of a shallow I -quart baking dish . Set aside for caramel to cool. Preheat oven to 32 5 ° F ( I 6 5°C ) . Place whole eggs and egg yolks in blender. Process until smooth. Add milk, condensed milk and coffee powder. Blend thoroughly. Pour into baking dish lined with caramelized sugar. Place baking dish in a baking pa n . Pour hot water into pan half way u p sides of baking dish . Bake about 1 - 1 12 hours or until a knife in serted off-center comes out clean . Cover flan loosely with foil if necessary to prevent excessive brown ing. Remove baking dish from pan of hot water. Cool, then refrigerate at least 3 hours . To serve , run a knife around top edge and i n vert flan o n to a serving plate . Ma kes 6 servings.

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Desserts

Flan E special Spec i a l Custa rd

You may want to caramelize sugar o ver slightly lower heat. Burned caramel tastes terrible!

1 medium orange l Hme 1 qt . m i l k 3 / 4 cup sugar

P inch salt 3/4 cup sugar 6 eggs

Use a sharp knife or peeler to peel orange and lime in thin strips. Leave as m uch white pith as possible on the frui t. R eserve orange and lime for another use. Combine orange and lime peels, m ilk , 3 /4 cup sugar and salt in a large saucepan . Bring to a boil and cook gently until liquid is reduced to 3 cups. Stir occasionally to break up any fi lm that forms on the surface . Strain and cool slightly. Heat 3 /4 cu p sugar in a 7-inch ski llet over mediu m-high heat . When sugar begins to melt , reduce h eat to m ed i u m . Continue to cook sugar , stirring occasionally. When sugar is melted and brown , i m mediately spoon over bottom and sides of a shallow 1 - 1 /2-quart baking d ish. Set aside to cool. Preheat oven to 3 2 5 °F (I 6 5 °C ) . Beat eggs i n a large bowl. Gradually add warm m i lk m ixture to eggs ; beat well. Pour into baking dish lined with caramelized sugar. Place baki ng dish in a baking pan. Pour hot water into pan halfway up sides of baking dish. Bake about 1 - 1 /2 hours or until a knife inserted o ff-ce nter comes out clean. Cover flan loosely with fo il if necessary t o prevent excessi ve brown ing. Remove baking dish from pan of hot water. Cool, then refrigerate at least 3 hours . To serve , run a knife aro und top edge and i n vert flan onto a serving plate. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

How To Make Flan Especial Cook sugar, stirring occasional ly, until melted and brown.

Pour custard m ixture into bak ing dish lined with car­ melized sugar. P lace in a pan of water to bake.

Desserts

Flan Napol ita no de Veracruz Neapol i tan Flan from Veracruz

Outstanding for its creamy smooth texture, and very rich.

3/4 cup sugar 1 (14-oz.) can sweetened condensed milk 1 cup whipping cream

1/2 cu p milk 4 eggs 1 cinnamon stick

Heat s ugar in a 7 -inch s killet over medium-high heat. When sugar begins to melt, reduce heat to medium . Continue to cook sugar, stirring occasionally. When sugar is melted and browned, immediately spoon over bottom and sides o f a shallow I - I /2-quart baking dish. Set aside for caramel to cool. Preheat oven to 3 2 5 °F ( I 6 5 °C) . Combine condensed milk, cream, milk and eggs in blender. Process until thoroughly mixed . Pour into baking dish lined with caramelized sugar. Drop cinnamon stick into middle of mixture. Place baking dish in a baking pan. Pour hot water into pan halfway up sides o f baking dis h. Bake abo ut 1 hour 5 0 min utes or until a k nife inserted off-center comes out clean. Cover flan loosely with foil if necessary to preven t excessive brown ­ ing. Remove baking dis h from pan of hot water. Cool, then refrigerate at least 3 hours. To serve, run a k nife around top edge and invert flan onto a serving plate. Makes 8 servings.

Chongos Zam oranos Cu rds i n Syrup

Use household-style rennet tablets to make these milk squares, or chongos, from Michoacan.

2 egg yolks 1 qt . milk 2 ren net tablets

1 tablespoon water 1 cup sugar 1 or 2 cinnamon sticks

In a small bowl, beat egg yolks with a little o f the milk. Combine egg yolk mixture and remaining milk in a 1 0-inch skillet. Heat gen tly u ntil lukewarm 1 1 0°F (45°C ) ; remove from heat. While milk mixture is heating, place rennet tablets i n I tablespoon water. Let stand u ntil dissolved. Stir rennet solution into lukewarm milk mix ture in skillet. Let stand ·about 45 minutes, or until mix­ ture has set. With a sharp k nife, cut through milk mixture to make 2-inch squares . Sprinkle sugar over cut squares; add cinnamon sticks. Cook gently without boiling over very low heat about 2 hours, until sugar and whey have formed a syrup and milk squares or chongos have become firm . Do n o t boil or chongos will break up. I f necessary , place an asbestos heat diffuser under pan . Remove s killet fro m heat. With a slotted spoon, l i ft out chongos a n d place in a 2-quart casserole. Return s killet with syrup to heat and boil u ntil slightly reduced . Strain and pour over chongos. Chill thoro ughly. Makes 6 servings. Variation

If substituting commercial cheese rennet for household rennet, use 1 14 tablet.

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Desserts

Arroz con Leche Rice Pudding

Old-fashioned rice pudding spiced with cinnamon is a Mexican fa vorite.

1 /3 cu p rice 1 - 1 / 2 cu ps water P inch s alt 2 cups hot m ilk 1 / 2 cu p sugar

1 cinnamon stick P inch salt 2 egg yolks 3 tablespoons rai sins plumped i n hot water G round cinnamon

Prepare rice according to How To Cook R ice , page 1 40 , but do not dry rice. Turn rice into a 2quart saucepan . Add 1 - 1 12 cups water and a pinch of salt . Bring to a boil, reduce heat. Cover and boil gently about 20 m inutes, until water is almost absorbed. Add hot milk, sugar, cinnamon stick and a pinch of salt to cooked rice. Cook and stir over medi u m heat u ntil mi xture is very th ick but still soft and moist; do not overcook. Remove fro m heat . Remove cin namon stick. With a large spoon, rapidly beat in egg yolks one at a time. Stir in raisins. To serve, turn into a 1 quart casserole and sprinkle with gro und cinnamo n . Let cool slightly but serve warm . Makes 6 servings.

Capirotada con Queso Bread Pudding w ith Cheese

Capiro/ada is traditional for Lent. This version is layered with cheese, raisins, nuts and bananas.

1 / 2 (I-lb.) loaf French bread 4 tablespoons butter 4 cu ps water 8 oz. piloncillo or 1 - 1 /2 cups packed brow n sugar 2 cinn amon sticks 2 w hole cloves 1 tablespoon butter

8 oz. Longhorn or m i ld Cheddar cheese , shredded (2 cups) 1/2 cup roasted u nsalted peanuts 1 / 4 cup slivered blanched almonds 1/2 cup rai s i n s 1 large b a n a n a , t h i n l y sliced Ground cinnamon

Preheat oven to 3 5 0°F ( 1 7 5°C ) . Cut a thin slice off heel of bread; reserve for another use. Cut remain ing bread in 1 I 2- inch slices. Butter slices on 1 side with 4 tablespoons butter. Place but­ tered-side u p in a si ngle layer on 1 or 2 baking sheets. Bake 1 5 minu tes, until lightly toasted and dry. Remove and cool. Combine water, piloncillo or brown sugar, cinnamon sticks and cloves in a large saucepan . Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Simmer syru p uncovered 20 minutes. Strain out cinnamon sticks and cloves; set syrup aside. Capirotada may be prepared in advance to this point and the bread left out overnight to dry. Grease a deep 2 - 1 I2-quart baking dish with about 1 12 tab­ lespoon butter. R eserve remaining 1 12 tablespoon butter, 1 /4 cup cheese and 2 tablespoons peanuts for topping. In prepared baking dish, layer i ngredients in the following order : a third of the toasted bread slices, half of the remai ning pean uts, half of the almonds, half of the raisins and half of the banana slices. Cover with half of the remain ing cheese. Pour 1 cu p syrup evenly over cheese. Layer another third o f the bread , remaining pean uts, almonds, raisins and banana slices. Cover with remaining cheese. Again po ur 1 cup syrup evenly over cheese. Top with remain ing bread. Sprinkle with reserved cheese and pean uts. Pour remaining syrup evenly over pudding. Dot with remain ing . butter and sprinkle l ightly with gro u nd cinnamo n . Cover and bake 45 m inutes. Let stand covered 30 m in utes to 1 hour before serving. M akes 8 to 1 0 servings. 1 72

Desserts

Capirota da de M a rga rita Ma rgarita 's Bread Pudding

Candied cactus, or biznaga, may be found in Mexican food stores or gourmet shops.

1 loaf Serna, page 1 57 or 1 (I-lb. 4-oz.) loaf sweet egg bread 1 /4 cu p butter 6 cu ps milk 1-3/4 cu ps sugar 2 cinn amon sticks 6 eggs , separated

1 cu p raisins 1 cu p shredded coconut 1 cu p diced candied cactus (biznaga) , citron or candied pineapple 1 (8-3/4-oz.) can fruit cocktail, drai ned 1 / 2 cu p chopped pecans

Cut loaf i n to 1 I2-i nch thick slices. Trim crust fro m end pieces. Butter each sl ice lightly on one side, using about 3 tablepoons butter. With remaining butter, grease a shallow 4-quart square or rectangular bak ing dish; set aside. Combine milk, sugar and cinnamon sticks i n a large saucepan. Bring to a boil. Boil gently 10 m i nutes, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Beat egg yolks in a small bowl. G radually blend some o f the hot m i xture into egg yolks. Add egg yolk m i xture to m ilk m i x ­ ture . Remove sauce fro m heat i m m ed iately. L e t cool slightly. Remove cinnamon sticks. Beat egg wh ites u n ti l stiff; fold i n to sauce . M ake a layer of buttered bread in prepared baking dish. Top with half each of the raisins, coconut, candied cactus, citron or candied pineapple, fruit cocktail and pecans. Pour about a third of the sauce evenly over layers. Make another layer of bread, then top with remaining raisins, cocon ut, candied cactus, citron or candied pineapple, fruit cocktail and pecans. Pour another third of the sauce evenly over layers. Top with remaining bread and then remaining sauce . Let stand while preheating oven to 3 5 0°F ( 1 7 5 °C ) . Bake pudding 45 m i n utes, un til browned and puffy . Cool i n baking dish o n a rack. Serve war m . Makes 1 5 servings.

How To Make Capirotada de Margarita G e nerously butter 1 / 2 - inch thick s lices of bread. P lace in a buttered baking dish.

Add layers of fruit, coconut, raisins and nuts. Pour 1 /3 of the custard over pudding. Repeat layering.

Desserts

Almendrado A l mond Pudding

The colors of this delicate dessert represent the red, white and green Mexican flag.

1 envelope unfl avored gelatin powder 1 /2 cup water 6 egg whites 1 /2 cup sugar 1 teaspoon almond extract

Red and green food coloring 1 (2-3/4 oz.) pkg. chopped almonds (3/4 cup) N atillas de Almendrado, page 1 84

Stir gelatin into water in a small saucepan. Stir gently o ver medium heat u ntil gelati n d issolves. Remove fro m heat. Cool on a rack 1 5 m inutes. Beat egg whites in a large bowl until frothy. Gra­ dually beat d issolved gelatin into frothy egg whites. Slowly beat in sugar. Continue beating until mixture forms stiff peaks. Beat i n almond e xtract . Divide m i xture evenly into 3 medium bowls. Add red food coloring 1 drop at a time to 1 /3 of the gelatin mixture to make bright pink. Add green food coloring 1 drop at a time to another third o f the gelatin mixture to make bright green. Fold n uts into uncolored portion of gelatin mixture. S pread pink mixture evenly i n a I -quart loaf pan . Without d isturbing pink layer, spread uncolored mixture over pink layer. Top with green mixtu re . Refrigerate until set, at least 2 hours. Prepare Natillas de Almendrado; refrigerate. Cut gelatin mixture into 8 crosswise slices. Place slices on dessert plates. Spoon Natillas de Almendrado o ver slices. Makes 8 servings.

Cala baza en Jara be Pumpkin i n Syrup

Make this old-fashioned Mexican dessert for Halloween. Serve it with a little cream.

1 (2-lb) pumpkin 1 lb. piloncil lo or 1 /2 l b . each light and dark brown sugar 1 orange

1 cinnamon stick 1 bay leaf 1 cup water P inch salt

Cut pumpkin into wedges. Remove seeds and strings. Cut wedges into 1 - 1 /2 to 2-inch pieces; peel. If necessary, place piloncillo or brown sugars inside a double plastic bag and pound with a hammer to break up. Cut off ends of orange , then cu t into thin slices. In a 3 -quart saucepan , layer peeled pumpkin pieces, broken up piloncillo or brown sugars and orange slices. Add cinnamon stick , bay leaf, water and salt . Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Cover and simmer gently 2 hours. Boil gently u ncovered 30 to 4 5 minutes longer to reduce syrup. D o not stir. Serve in small bowls at room temperature or chilled . Makes 6 to 8 servings.

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Desserts

Pie de L im on Lime Pie

The luscious and refreshing filling will not become as firm as fillings made with gelatin.

1 - 1 /4 cups vanilla wafer cru mbs (40 wafers) 6 tablespoons butter, melted 4 egg yolks 2-2/3 cups milk 3/4 cu p sugar Lime Meringue: 4 egg wh ites 1 /4 teaspoon cream of tartar

3 tablespoons cornstarch 1 teaspoon grated lime peel 1 /4 teaspoon salt 1 /3 cup lime j u ice Lime M eringue, see below

1 /2 cup sugar 1 - 1 /2 teaspoon s lime j u ice

Preheat oven to 3 50°F ( 1 7 5 °C) . M i x wafer crumbs and butter. Pat over bottom and sides of a 9inch pie plate. Bake 6 m i nutes. Cool thoroughly before add ing filling. Combine egg yolks, milk , sugar, cornstarch, lime peel and salt in blender. Process u n til smooth. Pour into a medium saucepa n . Cook and stir over medium heat u ntil m i xture boils , beco mes very thick and se parates when a spoon is drawn through it. Stir i n lime j uice . Cook and stir until mixture again becomes very thick . Remove fro m heat and cool thoroughly. Prepare Lime Meringue. Turn cooled filling into pie shell. Swirl meringue onto pie, spreading to edges and sealing to pie shell. Bake 1 2 to 1 5 minutes u ntil meringue is browned. Cool pie. Chill before cutting. M akes one 9-i nch pie . Lime M eri ngue: I n a medi u m bowl , beat egg whites and cream of tartar u ntil soft peaks form. While beating, add one tablespoon of sugar at a time. Beat until stiff. Beat i n lime juice .

Pie de P iiia Pinea pple P i e

Fresh and canned pineapple ha ve very different fla vors, but either one makes a delicious pie.

1 fresh medium pineapple or 1 (I-lb. 4-oz') can chu n k pineapple packed in j u ice, drained Pastry for 1 double-cru st 8-inch pie 1/2 cu p sugar 1 tablespoon cornstarch

Pinch salt 1 tablespoon butter Pinch grou nd cinnamon About 1 tablespoon whipping cream or milk 1 - 1 /2 teaspoons sugar

Quarter pineapple lengthwise. Remove core fro m each quarter. Cut fruit from shell , using a curved , serrated pineapple knife or grapefruit knife . Dice pineapple . There should be about 3 cups. D rain off any juice. Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C) . Prepare pastry� cut in half. Roll ou t half of pastry into a I O- I !2-i nch circle. Line an 8-inch pie plate with rolled out pastry. Arrange drained pineapple e venly i n pastry shell. In a small bowl , blend 1 12 cup sugar, cornstarch and sal t , break­ ing up any lu mps. Sprinkle evenly over pineapple . Dot with butter and sprinkle lightly with cin­ nam o n . Roll out remaining half of pastry. Place over filling. S eal and nute edges. Cut slits in top of pie to let steam escape. Brush pie lightly with cream or milk� sprin kle with 1 - 1 !2 teaspoons sugar. Bake 1 0 minutes. Reduce heat to 3 5 0°C ( l 7 5 °C) and bake 3 5 min utes longer. Cool in pie plate o n a rack. Serve warm . M akes one 8-inch pie . 1 75

Desserts

P ie de Jicama J icama Pie

A nother word for pie in spanish is pastel.

1 (9-inch) pie s hel l , baked 1 O /2-lb.) j icama, peel ed , coarsely shredded (abou t 2 cups) 1/2 cup sherry 1 /2 cu p water 3/4 cup sugar 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 /4 teaspoon salt

3 egg yolks 2 cups milk 1 cinn amon s tick 1 - 1 / 2 teaspoons butter 1 /4 teaspoon grou nd ci n n amon 2 teaspoons sugar 1 teaspoon butter

Prepare pie shell; set aside . Combine shredded j icama , sherry and water in a saucepan . Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Cover and boil gen tly 45 m inutes or until most of liquid has evaporated. D rain th�roughly; set aside. Mix 3/4 cup sugar, flour and salt i n a medium saucepan . Beat egg yolks and 1 cu p milk in a small bowl. Stir into sugar m ixture. Add remain ing milk and cinnamon stick. Stir over medium heat u ntil mixture boils, beco mes very thick and separates when a spoon is drawn through it. Remove ci nnamon stic k . Add jicama m i x ture to milk mixture. Cook and stir 1 or 2 m i nu tes longer, until ' very thick. Stir i n 1 - 1 12 teaspoons butter. Remove from heat and cool slightly . Turn mix ture into pie shell . Sprinkle lightly with ground cinnamon and 2 teaspoons sugar. Cut 1 teaspoon butter into small pieces. Place over filling. Broil 3 inches from heat u ntil butter and sugar are m elted and bubbly. Watch carefully and do n o t let crust burn . Cool pie slightly. Serve warm or at room tempe rature. Makes one 9-inch pie .

Panque de Arroz R i ce Flour Cake

Call specialty shops in your area to find rice flour.

1 /2 lb. butter, softened 1 - 1 /4 cups sugar 5 eggs 1 - 1 /2 cups rice flou r

2 teaspoons b a k i n g powder 2 oz . Edam or Monterey Jack cheese, shredded 0/2 cup) 1 /2 cup m i l k

Preheat ov en to 3 50°F ( I 7 5 °C) . G rease a nd flour a 9-inch square baking pan ; set aside. B ea t but­ ter until soft and creamy. Beat in sugar u ntil mixture is flu ffy. Add eggs one at a time, beating after each addition. I n a sifter, combine rice flo ur and baking powder. Sift i n to butter m ixture. Stir in cheese and milk. Turn into prepared pan . Bake about 40 minutes u ntil su rface springs back when touched with your fingers. Cool cake in pan on a rack 1 0 min utes. Remove cake from pan. Cool completely on rack. M akes one 9-inch cake.

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Desserts

Pie d e Pacana Pecan Pie

Extraordinary pecan pie is a specialty of the R estaurant Portales in Merida.

2 cups all-purpose flour Pinch salt 1 / 2 cup plus 2 tablespoons butter

1 /3 cup sweetened conden sed milk 2 egg yolks Pecan Filling, see below

Pecan Filling: 1 - 1 /2 cups shelled pecans 1/2 cup bu tter 1 - 1 /3 cups sugar 1 /4 cup m aple-fl avored syrup

3 whole eggs 2 egg whites 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Combine flour and salt in a medium bowl. Cut in b u tter with 2 knives or a pastry blender u ntil evenly blended . Add condensed milk and egg yolks. Mix well. D o ugh will be too soft to roll out. Turn into a 9-inch pie plate . S hape into a ball. Press dough fro m center out until pie plate is even­ ly covered and enough dough e xtends above plate to for m a flu ted rim. Flute edge. Cover with plastic wrap; refrigerate. Preheat oven to 3 50°F ( 1 7 5 °C) . Prepare Pecan Filling. Turn fi lling into prepared pie shell. Bake pie 2 0 m i nutes u n til flu ted edge is lightly browned. Cut 4 curved strips of foil abou t 1 - 1 12 inches wide. Carefu lly fold foil strips over edge to preven t excessive browning. Do not let foil touch filling. Bake 2 0 to 25 minu tes longer or u ntil filling is set. Cool o n a rack. Serve pie slightly warm or at room temperature . Makes one 9-inch pie. Pecan Filli n g : G ri nd pecans in blender o r food processor until fine; set aside. Combine butter, sugar a n d syrup in a large saucepan . Bring to a boil over medi um heat, stirring to blend. Beat whole eggs, egg whites and vanilla in a medium bow l . Gradually beat hot mixture into eggs. Stir in ground pecans.

Pie de Kahlua Ka h l ua Pie

Kahlua is the coffee liqueur produced in Mexico.

1 (9-inch) pie shell, baked 4 egg yolks 1 /2 cup sugar 2 (l -oz .) s qu ares sem isweet chocolate 1 /4 cup water 1 envelope unflavored gelatin powder

1 /4 cup cold water 1 /4 cup Kahhia 1 - 1/4 cups whipping cream 2 t ablespoon s sugar 2 egg whites C hopped toasted al monds

Prepare pie shell and set aside. S lightly beat egg yolks in top of a double boiler. Add 1 12 cups sugar. Place over simmering water. Cook and stir u n til sugar is dissolved. Melt chocolate with 1 /4 cu p water in a small saucepan. S tir m elted chocolate mixture into egg yolks. Cook and stir u n til mixture begins to thicken . Soften gelatin i n 1 14 cu p cold water. Add to thickened chocolate mix­ ture. S tir well and remove from heat. Add Kahlua. Place pan with mixture in a bowl of ice water to cool. In a small bowl, beat cream with 2 tablespoons sugar u ntil stiff. In another small bowl, beat egg whites until stiff. When chocolate mixture begins to thicke n , fo ld in half of the whipped cream, then fold in s tiffly beaten egg whites. Refrigerate remaining whipped cream. Turn choco­ late m ix t u re into pie shell; chill. Top pie with remaining whipped cream and almonds. Makes one 9-inch pie. Pie de Kahlua (Ka hlua P ie ) is pictured on t h e following pages.

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Desserts

Torta d e Cielo

Photo o n pages 1 22 a n d 1 23 .

Heavenly Torte

R efrigerate any leftover cake. It will taste even better a few days later.

1/2 lb. unblanched almonds Water 1 - 1 /3 cups sugar 6 eggs , separated Pinch s alt

1 t ablespoon all-purpose flour 1 t ablespoon dark ru m 1 /4 teaspoon cream of tartar 4 to 6 b lanched almonds, coursely chopped

The n ight before, place 1 /2 pound almonds i n a medium saucepan. Cover with water and bring to a boil. Remove fro m heat and let stand 5 minutes; drain. Press soaked almonds between your fingers to remove skins. Return skinned almonds to saucepan. Cover with cold water and let stand o vernight. Just before making torte , drain almonds and pat d ry with paper towels. Grease a 9- 1 /2 inch springform pan . Line bottom with waxed paper. Grease paper; set pan aside. Preheat oven to 3 50°F (I 7 5 °C ) . In blender o r food processor, grind almo nds with 2/3 cup sugar until very fine, almost a paste. I n a large bowl, beat egg yolks, remaining 2/3 cup sugar and salt u n til light and creamy. Beat in flour, then rum . Beat in almond mixture. I n a large bowl, beat egg whites with cream o f tartar u ntil stiff. Fold 1 /3 of the egg whites into nut mixture, then fold in remaining egg whites lightly but thoro ughly. Turn into prepared pan. Bake 35 minutes or until browned and cake has begun t o shrink fro m side o f pan. Cake will rise as it bakes, begin t o settle in the center and settle further as i t cools. Cool in pan o n a rack. When t orte is completely cool, run a knife around edge of pan to loosen. Remove side of pan. C u t in wedges and place o n a serving plate. Decorate each wedge with a few pieces o f coursely chopped almonds. Makes 8 servings.

Pan Tity

Tity ' s Cake

Delightful served plain, you can also split this cake horizontally and fill it with jam.

2 eggs, separated 1 cup sugar 1/2 cup milk 1 /2 cup vegetable oil

1 - 1 / 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1 - 1 / 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 t ablespoon baking powder 1 /4 teaspoon salt

G rease and flour an 8-inch square baking pan; set aside. Preheat oven t o 400°F ( 205°C ) . Place egg yolks, sugar, milk and oil i n a medium bowl. Beat 1 m inu te with electric mixer on h igh speed. Add vanilla. I n a sifter, combine flour, baking powder and salt. Sift into egg yolk mixture. Beat at low speed u ntil thoroughly combined scraping sides o f bowl with a rubber spatu la. Beat egg whites in a small bowl u ntil stiff. Fold beaten egg whites into batter. Turn batter into prepared pan . Place in oven and i mmediately reduce heat to 3 7 5 °F ( I 90°C ) . Bake u ntil cake has doubled i n size, about 1 0 minutes; reduce heat to 3 50°F ( I 7 5 °C ) . Bake about 3 0 minu tes longer u ntil a wooden pick inserted in center comes o u t clean. Cool cake in pan o n a rack 1 0 minutes. Remove fro m pan and cool completely o n rack . Makes one 8-inch square cake.

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Desserts

Pastel a l a Federico

Federico ' s Chi ffon Cake

A fluffy, citrus-flavored cake developed by a baker from Merida.

1 cup all-purpose flour 1/2 cup cornstarch 1 - 1 /2 cups sugar 1 tablespoon baking powder 1 /2 teaspoon s alt 3/4 cu p vegetable oil 8 eggs , separated

1 /4 cup fres h tangeri ne j u ice or orange j u ice 1 / 2 cup sugar 1 /3 cup lime j uice Grated peel of 1 tangerine or 1 small orange 0 - 1 /2 to 2 teaspoons)

Grease and flour a l a-inch tube pan ; set aside. Preheat o ven to 3 50°F (I 7 5 °C) . In a sifter, com ­ bine flour, cornstarch , 1 - 1 1 2 cups sugar, baking powder and salt. Sift into a large bowl. Add oil , egg yolks and tangerine juice or o range juice. Beat with electric m ixer on high speed until thoroughly m i xed. Beat egg w hites i n a large bowl u ntil stiff. Fold batter into egg whites gently but thoroughly. Turn into prepared pan . Bake 40 m i nutes. M i x 1 12 cup sugar, lime juice and tangerine peel or orange peel. Spoon m i xture evenly o ver cake and bake 5 minutes longer. Remove cake fro m oven and i nvert pan over the neck of a thin bottle. Let cake hang on bottle until thoroughly cooled , about 3 hours. If a bottle is not available, invert pan with edges resting o n custard cups. Run a k n ife or spatula around sides of cake and tap bottom of pan on hard sur­ face until cak e is loosened. Invert onto a large plate , then invert again onto a serving plate. Do not frost. Makes one l a- inch tube cake.

Voltead o d e Piiia Pineapple Upside- Down Cake

A cooking demonstration by Lucy Lopez y Simon in Merida yielded this recipe.

3/4 cup butter, softened 1 /3 cup sugar 1 O-Ib. 4-oz.} can sliced p ineapple i n heavy syrup Pitted prunes Pecan halves

1 cup sugar 3 eggs 1 /2 cup evaporated m ilk 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 - 1 /2 teaspoon s baking powder 1 /4 teaspoon salt

Preheat oven to 3 50°F (I 7 5 °C) . Coat bottom and sides of a 9- 1 I2-inch springform pan with 3 ta­ blespoons of the butter. S prinkle with 1 13 cup sugar. D rain pineapple, reserving 1 12 cup syru p. Arrange pineapple slices in an attractive pattern to cover bottom of pan . Cut any extra slices in half and stand at sides of pan . Place a prune in the center of each pi neapple slice. Fill in spaces be­ tween slices with pecan halves with rou nded sides down. Set pan aside. Place remaining butter and 1 cup sugar in a large bowl. Beat with electric m ixer on medium speed until mixture is light and creamy. Add eggs . Beat until fluffy. Add m ilk and reserved pineapple syrup. Beat until blended. In a sifter, combine flour, baking powder and salt. Sift in 3 parts into creamed m ixture, beating after each addition until just blended. Beat at high speed I m inute. Carefully pour batter over p i neapple in prepared pan , spreading evenly. Bake 45 to 5 5 minutes, until a wooden pick inserted in center o f cake com es out clean. Cool in pan on a rack. Remove side of pan. Invert cake on a serving plate. Remove pan bottom . Makes one 9- 1 /2-inch cake. 1 81

Desserts

Mousse de Rom pope R u m Eggnog Mousse

This sophisticated dessert is lightly flavored with rum.

1 cup Rompope, page 1 6 , room temperature 1 envelope unflavored gelatin powder 1 /4 cup cold water

1 /2 cup wh ipping cream 4 egg whites Fresh strawberries mashed w ith sugar or crushed th awed frozen strawberries

Prepare Rompope. Pour gelatin onto cold water in m easuring cup. Let stand 5 minutes to soften. Place measuring cup in a bowl of hot wate r. Stir gelatin m ixture to d issolve. Gradually beat gelatin m ix ture into Rompope. Refrigerate only until m i xture begins to thicken and has the con­ sistency o f u nbeaten egg whites, 20 to 4 5 minutes. In a small bowl, whip cream u n til stiff. In another s ma ll b o w l , beat egg whites until stiff. F old whipped cream, t hen beaten egg whites into Rompope mixture. R efrigerate until firm . To serve , spoon m ousse into dessert glasses. Top with strawberries. M akes 6 servings.

M ousse de Kahlua Kahlua Mousse

Cream whips best when the bo wl, beaters and the cream itself are ice-cold.

1 cup w hipping cream 1 /2 teaspoon i nstant coffee powder 1/4 cup Kahlua 2 tab lepoons sugar

1 egg white 2 teaspoons sugar Chocol ate sprinkles

Chill bowl and beater before beating cream. Combine cream and coffee powder in a medium ' bowl. Beat until stiff. Add Kahh.la and 2 tablespoons suga r. Beat until very stiff. In a small bowl, beat egg white to soft peaks. Add 2 teaspoons sugar. Beat u ntil stiff. Fold egg white into whipped cream m ixture. Cover and chill . To serve, mound i n dessert glasses and decorate with choc01ate spri nkles. M a kes 6 servings.

Postre de Mango Mango Dessert

Use your blender to prepare this unusual dessert.

1 (IS-oz.) can s liced m angoes in heavy syrup 1 ( I4-oz. ) can sweetened condensed milk 2 tablepoons d a r k rum

1 envelope u nflavored gelatin powder Whipped cream C hopped w alnuts M araschino cherries

Drain mangoes , reserving 1 14 cup syrup in a measuring cup. Combine drained m angoes, con­ densed milk and rum in blender� puree. Add gelatin to reserved 1 14 cup syru p. Let stand 5 mi nutes to soften . Place measuring cup in a bowl of hot water. Stir to d iss01ve gelatin. Add to mango mi xture; blend . Pour into 6 small dessert glasses. Refrigerate until set. To serve , top with whipped cream and walnuts. Garnish with maraschino cherries. M akes 6 servings, 1 82

M ousse de Rompope (Rum Eggnog Mousse)

Desserts

Budin de Zanahorias Ca rrot Pudding

An incredibly rich, brandy-soaked carrot pudding.

3/4 cup butter 1 ( 14-oz . ) can sweetened conden sed milk 4 eggs 1 cup finely shredded raw carrots

5 tablespoons fine dry breadcrumbs 1 /4 teaspoon v an i l l a extract 2/3 cup sugar 1 /4 cu p water 1 /4 cup brandy

Preheat oven to 3 500P ( 1 7 5 °C ) . Butter and flour an 8-inch round glass cake pan ; set aside. Cream butter u ntil fluffy. Beat in condensed milk. Beat in eggs one at a time. Stir in carrots, breadcrumbs and vanilla. Mix well. Turn into prepared cake pan . Bake 30 to 35 minu tes, u ntil a knife i nserted in center comes out clean. Cool com pletely in pan on a rack. Bring sugar and water to a boil i n a small sauce pan. Boil 2 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in brandy. Cool slightly. Spoon evenly over cooled carrot pudding. Refrigerate 1 hour. Cut into wedges. Mak es 8 to 1 0 servings.

Natillas de Almendrado Almond Custard

Top A lmendrado, page 1 74, with this rich sauce.

6 egg yolks 1/8 teaspoon salt 1 /4 cup sugar

2 cups hot m ilk 1 /2 teaspoon almond extract s auce 1 (2-3/4 oz.) pkg. chopped almonds (3/4 cup)

I n a medium bow l , beat egg yolks, salt and sugar until blended. S tirring constantly, slowly add hot m i l k . Pour into top of a double-boiler. Cook over simmering water u ntil m i x tu re coats a metal spoo n , about 1 0 m inutes. R emove from heat. S ti r in alm ond e xtract and chopped almonds. Cool on a rack, then refrigerate at least 30 m inutes. Makes about 3 cups.

Cajeta de Celaya Caramel Candy from Celaya

A cajeta is a box. In Celaya, where this candy is made, it is packaged in wooden boxes.

2 cups cow ' s m i l k 2 c u p s goat's m i l k o r additional cow ' s m i l k 2 teaspoons corn starch 1/8 teaspoon baking soda

1 -1 /2 cups sugar 1 cinnamon s tick 1 fig leaf, i f available 1 t ablespoon sweet sherry, if desi red

In a s mall bowl, blend 1 tablespoon milk , cornstarch and baking soda. Combine remaining milk in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil . Stir in cornstarch m i x ture, sugar, cinnamon stick and fig leaf. Boi l , stirring constantly, until m i x ture thickens and bottom of pan can be seen clearly when spoon is scraped across it, about 1 hour. After 30 m i n utes o f boiling and stirring, remo ve cin­ namon stick and fig leaf. When candy is very thick , stir in sherry. Cook 1 minute longer. Pour into a heatproof container or serving dish; cool . Candy should be soft but not runny. S erve in dessert dishes, or use as a soda cracker spread, dessert topping or crepe filling. Makes 1 - 1 / 2 cups. 1 84

Desserts

Jam oncillo de Fruta s M i l k Fudge with Fruit

Long boiling gives this confection a marvelous fla vor. Make it the day before you plan to serve it.

1 /4 lb. chopped mixed candied fru it 1 /4 cup orange-flavored liqueur 1 qt. milk

3 cups s ugar 1 /2 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 /4 teaspoon baking soda

Combine fruit and liqueur in a small bowl ; stir. Let stand 3 to 5 hours u n til l iqueur is absorbed, stirring occasionally. Butter an 8-inch square baking pan ; set aside. Place milk in a deep medium saucepan . Add sugar, vanilla and baking soda. Bring to a boi l . Continue to boil over m edium -low heat u nt i l thickened, stirring occasionally. Stir thickened m ix tu re constantly until m ixture separ­ ates when a spoon is drawn through i t . R emove from heat. Let cool slightly, then beat vigorously until candy stiffens. Stir in frui t m ixture. S pread in prepared pan . Cover candy with plastic wrap or foi l and let stand overn ight. Candy will be quite soft , particularly if weather is warm. For firmer texture , refrigerate candy. To serve, cut into rectangles or shape into balls and place i n fl uted paper cups. Makes about 2 5 pieces. Variation J amoncillo de Nuez (Milk Fudge with Nuts) : S ubstitute 1 12 cup chopped walnuts for the can ­ died fru i t . O m i t t h e liqueur.

How To Make Jamoncillo de Frutas Cook candy until bottom of pa n can be seen whe n a spoon is drawn through mixture.

B eat candy until it stiffens, then stir in fru its. Spread m ixture in a pan to cool.

Desserts

Sevillanas Sevi lle Cookies A friend in Tucson couldn 't find pineapple fla voring, so she used lemon extract.

1 /2 cu p b utter or s hortening, softened 1 cup granu l ated sugar 1 whole egg 1 egg yolk 2 cups sifted all-pu rpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder

1 /4 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon pineapple flavoring Yellow food coloring 1/2 teapoon vanilla extract Red food coloring Powdered sugar

Cream butter or shortening and granulated sugar i n a medium bowl until smooth. Add whole egg and egg yolk . Beat u ntil fluffy. Add flour, baking powder and salt; mix well. D ivide dough in half. To one h alf, add pineapple flavoring and enough yellow food coloring to make dough bright yellow. Knead flavoring and food coloring into dough by hand t o blend evenly. To other half of dough , add vanilla and enough red food coloring to make dough pink. Knead t o blend thorough­ ly. Wrap each half o f colored dough in waxed paper or plastic wrap . Refrigerate until firm enough to roll out, at least 1 hour. Preheat oven to 3 2 5 °P ( I 6 5 °C) . Line baking sheets with foil; set aside. Work with 1 color dough at a time. On a lightly floured surface , roll out dough 1 18 i nch t hick, sprinkling with flour when n ecessary. Cut o ut cookies with a 2- 1 I2-inch round cutter. Cookies made with a larger cutter will be difficult to handle. Pick up scraps; k nead and roll out again until all dough is used. Place cookies on prepared baking sheets and bake 10 to 1 5 m inutes. D o not let edges brown. Remove immediately from foil with a large spatula and cool on racks. Sift powdered sugar o ver half the cookies. To serve, alternate sugar-topped and plain cookies in a circle on a serving plate. Makes about 3 6 cook ies.

Bes itos de M erengue Meringue Kisses Mexican spiced chocolate fla vors exquisite meringue cookies.

1 /2 circle M ex ican spiced chocolate 0 - 1 / 2 oz.) , or 1 - 1 /2 oz. semi sweet chocolate and pinch of cinnamon 2 egg whites

1 /8 1 /4 1 /4 3/4

teaspoon salt teaspoon cream of tartar teaspoon vanilla extract cup sugar

Preheat oven to 3 5 00P (I 7 5 °C) . Grate chocolate or shave with a knife ; set aside. Beat egg whites until frothy. Add salt and cream of tartar. Beat until stiff. Beat in cinnamon if semisweet chocolate is used . Add vanilla. Beat i n sugar 1 tablespoon at a time. Beat until m eringue is stiff and glossy. Stir in grated or shaved chocolate. D rop m ixture by teaspoonfuls on u ngreased baking sheets , swirling tops to a point. Place in oven and i mmediately turn off heat . Leave in oven 3 hours with­ ou t opening door. Remove baking sheets and tap to loosen meringues. Remove and store i n air­ tight containers . Makes 48 cookies.

1 86

I n d ex

A Achiote 5 Achiote Paste , Seasoned 1 1 6 A derezo de Hierbas 60 Agua de Jamaica 1 7 Agua de Limon 2 1 Agua de Naranja 2 1 Agua de Tamarindo 1 8 Alberto's Marinated Fish 1 2 5 Alexander, Kahlua 1 5 A lmendrado 1 74 Almond Custard 1 84 Almond Pudding 1 74 Aperitivos y Botanas 2 2-3 1 Appetizers & Snacks 2 2-3 1 A rroz a la Mexicana 1 40 A rroz a la Veracruzana 1 66 A rroz Blanco 1 47 A rroz Catalina 1 44 A rroz Chicano 1 42 A rroz con Chiles 1 43 A rroz con Chorizo 1 44 A rroz con Leche 1 7 2 A rroz con PIGtanos 1 47 A rroz con Polio 1 1 9 A rroz Guisado 1 46 A rroz Instante 1 42 A rroz R ojo 1 42 A rroz Verde de Zihuatanejo 1 47 A rroz y Frijoles 1 3 9- 1 5 3 A tole de Francisco Morales 2 0 A tole de Fresas 1 8 Avocado Salad, U xmal 5 6 A vocado Sauce 40

Avocado Avocado A vocado A vocado

Sauce, Cheese Crisp with 1 0 ] Sauce, Fish with 1 3 0 Snack 5 6 Soup 5 2

B Baked Beans 1 49 Baked Ch icken 1 20 Baked Pork Loin 1 1 1 Bananas, Rice with 1 47 Barbacoa de Polio con Pina 1 1 9

Barbecued Ch icken with Pineapple 1 1 9 Basic Beans 1 4 8 Bean D i p 24 Bean Salad , G reen 5 7 Bean Salad , Guanajuato-Style 5 7 Bean Sandwiches, Broiled , 2 7 Bean Soup, Fava 5 2

Bean Soup, Mayan 50 Beans, see R ice & Beans Beans from the Pot 1 4 8 Beans, H o w to Cook 1 4 8 Beans Ranch-Style 1 5 3 Beans with Chorizo 1 5 2 Beans with Pork 1 5 1 Bebidas 1 0-2 1

Beef Stewed with Tomatoes 1 08 Beef Tacos, Shredded 8 8 Besitos de Merengue 1 86 Birria con Vino Tinto I I I Bistec a la Maya 1 09 Bistec Picado ] 05 Biznaga 5 Black Beans 1 5 1 Boli/los 1 54, 1 6 1 Botana de Aguacate 5 6 Botana de Chile 2 6 Botana de Frijol 24 Botana de Frutas 3 1 Botana de Jicama 2 7 Botana de Salmon 2 6 Bread Fritters 1 6 1 Bread o f the Dead 1 5 5

Bread Pudding with Cheese 1 7 2 Bread Pudding, Margarita's 1 7 3 Breads 1 54- 1 6 7 Broiled Bean Sandwiches 2 7 Budin de Zanahorias 1 84 Bunuelos 1 66 Bunuelos de Coliflor 63 Buiiuelos de Molde 1 54, 1 67 Burritos 97 Burritos de Chile R elleno 97 Burritos. Stuffed Chile 9 7

c Caje de aI/a 20 Caje Mexicano 1 6 Cajeta de Celaya 1 68 , 1 84

Cake, Cake , Cake, Ca ke,

Federico's Chiffon 1 8 1 Pi neapple Upside- Down 1 8 1 R ice Flour 1 7 6 Tity's 1 80

Calabacitas con Crema 6 1 Calabacitas con Elote 62 Calabaza en Jarabe 1 74 Caldo de A lbOndigas 43 Caldo de Queso 43 Caldo Largo de Veracruz 54 Caldo Tlalpeno 44 Caldo Xochitl 46 Camarones a la Veracruzana 1 3 0

Camarones en Salpicon 1 2 7 Camarones para Chiles Rellenos 69 Campeche-Style Panuchos 1 00 Canapes de Sardinas 2 7 Canapes, Sardine 2 7 Candy from Celaya, Caramel 1 68 , 1 84 Capirotada con Queso 1 7 2 Capirotada de Margarita 1 7 3 Caramel Candy from Celaya 1 68 , 1 84 Ca rmen's H ot Sauce 36 Carne Asada 1 06 Carne A sada a la Tampiquena 1 05 Carne de Res Guisada en Jitomate 1 0 8 Carne Deshebrada 1 09 Carnes y A ves 1 04- 1 23 Carnitas a la Casera 1 1 5 Carrot Pudding 1 84 Carrots Flamed with Tequila 64 Casserole Cocktail 1 5 Catalina-Style Rice 1 44 Cauliflower & Mushroom Soup 49 Cauliflower Fritters 63 Cauliflower Salad 60 Cazuela 1 5 Cebollas Yucatecas 3 9 Celaya, Caramel Candy from 1 68 , 1 84 Central M arket Sandwiches 2 8 Ceviche de A lberto 1 2 5 Champurrado de Maria 20 Champurrado, Maria's 20 Chayote 5, 5 5 Chayotes con Queso 67 Chayotes Rellenos 69 Chayotes, S tuffed 69 Chayotes with Cheese 67 Cheese & Chile Corn Chips 29 Cheese & Chile Tamales 95 Cheese, Bread Pudding with 1 7 2 Cheese, Chayotes with 67 Cheese, Chile with 24 Cheese, Chiles Stuffed with 66 Cheese Crisp 28 Cheese Crisp Market-Style 1 02

Cheese Crisp with Avocado Sauce 1 0 1 Cheese Enchiladas 7 8 Cheese, M elted, 3 0 Cheese Salad , Macaroni & 66 Cheese Soup 43 Cheese Turnovers 23 Chicano-Style Rice 1 4 2 Chicharrones 1 04

Chicken & Rice 1 1 9 Chicken & Vermicelli Soup 45 Chicken, Baked 1 20 Chicken Enchiladas, Deluxe 80 Chicken in Squash Seed Sauce 1 1 8 Chicken Mole Enchiladas 78 Chicken Soup From Tlalpan 44

1 87

I n d ex

Chicken Soup, Xochitl 46 Chicken , S tewed 1 1 7 Chicken Tacos 9 1 Chicken Vinaigrette 1 1 7 Chicken with Pineapple, Barbecued 1 1 9 Chicken , Yucatecan 1 1 8 Chiffon Cake, Federico's 1 8 1 Chilaquiles can Salsa Verde 9 8 , 99 Chile & Tomato Sauce 3 3 Chile Burritos, Stuffed 9 7 Chile Colorado can Carne 1 06 Chile con Queso 24 Chile Corn Chips , Cheese & 2 9 Chile Dip 26 Chile Powder Sauce 39 Chile Sauce , Extra- Hot 3 6 Chile Sauce, Giiero 3 8 Chile Stew, Fay 's Green 1 1 0 Chile Tamales, Cheese & 95 Chile Verde a la Fay 1 1 0 Chile with Cheese 24 Chile with Meat, Red 1 06 Chiles & Vegetables, Pickled Jalapeno 7 1 Chiles 6-9 Chiles, D ri ed 9 Chiles en Nogada 64 Chiles, H ow to Peel Fresh 8 - 9 Chiles in Nut Sauce 6 4 Chiles R eI/enos 5 5 Chiles ReI/enos de A tim 70 Chiles ReI/enos de Elote 68 Chiles ReI/enos de Guacamole 7 2 Chiles ReI/enos de Queso 6 6 Chiles, R ice with 1 43 Chiles, Shrimp Stuffing for 69 Chiles stuffed 5 5 Chiles Stuffed with Cheese 66 Chiles Stuffed with Corn 68 Chiles Stuffed with Guacamole 72 Chiles Stuffed with Tuna 70 Chimichangas 97 Chips , Cheese & Chile Corn 29 Chips , Corn 30 Chocolate Mexicano 1 9 Chocolate, M e xican Spiced 1 3 Chongos Zamoranos 1 7 1 Chorizo 5 , 1 1 2 Chorizo, Beans with 1 5 2 Chorizo, Eggs with Potatoes & 1 3 8 Chorizo, Rice with 1 44 Christmas Eve Salad 5 8 Churros 1 5 8 Cigar-Shaped Rolls 1 62 Cilantro 5, 3 2 Cinnamon 1 68 Clay Pot Coffee 20 Cocido 42

Cocktail, Casserole I S

1 88

Cocktail Mazatlan-Style, Shrimp 1 26 Cocktail, Shrimp 1 26 Cocktail Tostadas 23 Coctel de Camarones 1 26 Coctel de Camarones Mazatlan 1 26 Coffee, Clay Pot 20 Coffee Flan 1 69 Coffee Liqueur 1 4 Coffee, Mexican 1 6 Cold M eat Salad 1 1 0 Cold Soup Guadalajara-Style 4 8 C o m b Bread 1 5 7 Cookies, Seville 1 8 6 Corn & Squash Soup 48 Corn , Chiles Stuffed with 6 8 Corn Chips 30 Corn Chips , Cheese & Chile 29 Corn Souffle 1 3 6 Corn Soup 5 1 Corn Tamale Casserole, Green 62 Corn Tortillas 74 Corn , Zucchini with 62 Crab Enchi ladas 8 3 Cream of M ushroom S o u p 50 Cream of Zucchini Soup 49 Cream , Zucchini with 6 1 Crema de Calabacitas 49 Crema de Champdiones 50 Crullers, Mexican 1 5 8 Cuernos 1 65 Cups, Filled Tortilla 1 03 Curds in Syrup 1 7 1 Custard, A lmond 1 84 Custard, Special 1 70

D Daiquiri , Tequi la 1 2 Dead, Bread of the 1 5 5 Deluxe Chicken Enchiladas 80 Dessert, M ango 1 82 Desserts 1 68 - 1 8 6 Dip, B e a n 2 4 Dip, Chile 2 6 Dough, Fresh Tamale 94 Dough, Tamale 94 Dressing, H erb 60 Dried Chiles 9 Dried Chiles, How to Prepare 9 Drinks 1 0- 2 1 Dry Rice Soup 1 43 Dry soups 4 1

E Egg-Filled Enchiladas 8 1 Eggnog M ousse, Rum 1 8 2 Eggnog, Rum 1 6 Eggplant Salad 60 Eggs 1 3 3 - 1 3 8 Eggs Malaga-Style 1 3 6 Eggs, M e xican Scrambled 1 3 6 Eggs M otul-Style 1 3 4 Eggs Ranch-Style 1 3 5 Eggs, Stone mason's Scrambled 1 3 5 Eggs Vallejo-Style 1 3 5 Eggs with Potatoes & Chorizo 1 3 8 Elva 's Tomato Sauce 3 9 Empanadas de Picadillo 3 1 Empanadas Dulces 3 1 Enchilada Sauce 3 7 Enchiladas 7 3 , 7 7 - 8 4 Enchiladas Chatas de Nuevo Mexico 8 4 Enchiladas, Cheese 7 8 Enchiladas, Chicken Mole 7 8 Enchiladas, Crab 8 3 Enchiladas de Leche 7 7 Enchiladas de Pol/o 8 0 Enchiladas de Pol/o e n Mole 7 8 Enchiladas de Queso 7 8 Enchiladas, Deluxe Chicken 8 0 Enchiladas, Egg-Filled 8 1 Enchiladas, Green 8 1 Enchiladas i n M ilk Sauce 7 7 Enchiladas Jaiba 83 Enchiladas, New Mexican Flat 84 Enchiladas Suizas 82 Enchiladas, Swiss 82 Enchiladas Verdes 8 1 Ensalada de Aguacate Uxmal 5 6 Ensalada de Berenjenas 6 0 Ensalada de Coliflor 6 0 Ensalada de Ejotes 5 7 Ensalada de Frutas 6 1 Ensalada de Macar6n y Queso 66 Ensalada de Nochebuena 5 8 Ensalada de Papas con Camarones 6 5 Ensalada de Papas con Chile Poblano 65 Ensalada Guanajuato 5 7 Ensalada Mixta Uxmal 5 6 Ensalada Tropical 6 1 Ensalada Verde de Vivian 7 2 Ensaladas y Verduras 5 5 - 7 2 Epazote 5 Extra-Hot Chile Sauce 3 6

I n d ex

F Fava Bean Soup 5 2 Favorite Sauce 3 4 Fay's G reen Chile Stew 1 1 0 Federico's Chiffon Cake 1 8 1 Fiesta. Yucatan 1 04, 1 2 2 - 1 23 Filled Tortilla Cups 1 03 Fish & Shellfish 1 24- 1 3 2 Fish German-Style 1 3 2 Fish i n Garlic Sauce 1 2 8 Fish in G ravy 1 29 Fish in G reen Sauce 1 3 2 Fish Soup Veracruz-Style 54 Fish with Avocado Sauce 1 30 Five-Bean Salad Guanajuato-Style 5 7 Flan. Coffee 1 69 Flan de Caje 1 69 Flan Especial 1 70 Flan from Veracru z, Neapolitan 1 7 1 Flan. How to M ake 1 69 Flan Napolitano de Veracruz 1 7 1 Flat Enchiladas, New Mexican 84 Flour Tortillas 7 6 Flower Water, Jamaica 1 7 French Rolls 1 6 1 Fresh Sauce 3 3 Fresh Tamale Dough 9 4 Fried Breads 1 66 Fried Breads with Honey 1 66 Frijoles al Homo 1 49 Frijoles con Chorizo 1 5 2 Frijole con Puerco 1 5 1 Frijoles Colados 1 5 3 Frijoles de la alia 1 48 Frijoles Especiales 1 50 Frijoles Negros 1 5 1 Frijoles Rancheros 1 5 3 Frijoles Refritos 1 49 Frijoles Sencillos 1 48 Fritters , Bread 1 6 1 Fritters, Cauliflower 63 Fritters, M olded 1 54 , 1 67 Fruit Cup 3 1 Fruit Salad 6 1 Fudge with Fruit, Milk 1 8 5

G Garlic Sauce , Fish in 1 28 Gamachas 1 02 Gazpacho a la Guadalajara 48 Gelatina de Sangrita 58 German-Style Fish 1 3 2

Golden Hominy Soup 46 Gorditas 1 0 1

G ravy, Fish in 1 2 9 Green Bean Salad 5 7 Green Chile Sauce , Tortilla Strips with 98 Green Chile Stew, Fay's 1 1 0 Green Corn Tamale Casserole 6 2 Green Enchiladas 8 1 Green Mole with Pork 1 1 3 Green Rice from Zihuatanejo 1 47 Green Salad, Vivian's 7 2 Green Sauce 3 6 Green Sauce , Fish in 1 3 2 Grilled Pork 1 1 3 Grilled Steak 1 06 Grilled S teak Tampico-Style 1 05 Guacamole 40 Guacamole. Chiles Stuffed with 7 2 Guacamole. prevent blackening 3 2 G uadalajara-Style Cold Soup 4 8 Guadalajara-Style Sangrita 1 3

Guanajuato-Style Five-Bean Salad 5 7 GUero Chile Sauce 3 8

H Heavenly Torte 1 80 Herb Dressing 60

I Instant masa 74

J Jalapeno Chiles & Vegetables, Pickled 7 1 Jalapenos y Verduras en Escabeche 7 1 Jamaica 5 Jamaica Flower Water 1 7 Jamoncillo de Frutas 1 8 5 Jicama 5 , 2 2 Jicama Pie 1 76 Jicama Snack 2 7

K Kahlua Alejandro 1 5 Kahlua Alexander 1 5 Kahlua Mousse 1 82 Kahlua Pie 1 7 7 - 1 79 Kings, Ring of the 1 54, 1 5 6 Kisses, Meringue 1 86

Hojas 5

Home-Style M eats 1 1 5 Hominy Soup, Golden 46 Horns 1 65 Hot Sauce 34 Hot Sauce, Carmen's 36 How to Cook Beans 1 48 How to Cook Rice 1 40- 1 4 1 How t o Make & Fill Taco Shells 90 How to M ake Flan 1 69 How to M ake Tamales 92-93 How to Peel Fresh Chiles 8 - 9 How to Prepare Dried Chiles 9 How to Prepare Tamales in Foil 94 Huachinango a la Veracruzana 1 28 Huevos 1 3 3 - 1 3 8 Huevos Motulenos 1 34 Huevos Rancheros 1 3 5 Huevos Revueltos a la Mexicana 1 3 6 Huevos a la Malaguena 1 3 6 Huevos al Vallejo 1 3 5 Huevos con Papas y Chorizo 1 3 8 Huevos Revueltos A Ibanil 1 3 5

L Lamb with Red Wine I I I Licor de Caje 1 4 Licuado de Fresas 1 8 Lime & Tortilla Soup 45 Lime Pie 1 7 5 L imeade 2 1 Liqueur, Coffee 1 4 Little Tacos 90 Lomo de Puerco al Homo I I I

M Macaroni & Cheese Salad 66 Machaca 88

Malaga-Style, Eggs 1 3 6 Mango Dessert 1 8 2 Manuel's Tacos 8 9 Margarita 1 2

1 89

Index

Margari ta's Bread Pudding 1 7 3 Maria' s Champurrado 2 0 Marinated Fish, Alberto's 1 25 Mariscos y Pescados 1 24- 1 3 2 Mary Ellen's Sopes 1 0 1 Masa 5 , 7 3 , 74 Masa Fresca para Tamales 94 Masa. instant 74 Masa para Tamales 94 Mayan Bean Soup 50 Mayan-Style Steak 1 09

Mazatlan-Style Shrimp Cocktail 1 26 Meat, Minced 1 08 Meat, Red Chile with 1 06 Meat Salad, Cold 1 1 0 Meat, Shredded 1 09 Meat Tostadas 9 8 Meat Turnovers 3 1 Meatball Soup 43 Meats & Poultry 1 04- 1 23 Meats, Home-Style 1 1 5 Melted Cheese 30 Menudo 4 1 , 53

Merida-Style Panuchos 1 00 Meringue Kisses 1 8 6 Mexican Chocolate 1 9 Mexican Coffee 1 6 Mex ican Crullers 1 5 8 Mexican R ice, Quick 1 42 Mexican Sauce 3 3 Mexican Scrambled Eggs 1 3 6 Mexican Sling 1 5 Mexican Spiced Chocolate 1 3 Mexican-Style R ice 1 40 Milk Fudge with Fruit 1 85 Minced Meat 1 08 Mi xed Salad , Uxmal 56 Molcajete 32

Mold, Sangrita Salad 58 Molded Fritters 1 5 4, 1 67 Mole 5, 1 04 Mole Colorado de Oaxaca 1 1 2 Mole de Puerco 1 1 4 Mole Enchiladas. Chicken 7 8 Mole. Oaxacan R e d 1 1 2 Mole Poblano 2, 1 1 6 Mole, Pork 1 1 4 Mole Puebla-Style 2, 1 1 6 Mole Verde de Puerco 1 1 3 Mole with Pork, Green 1 1 3 Molletes 2 7 Motul-Style Eggs 1 3 4 Mousse de Kahlua 1 8 2 Mousse de R ompope 1 8 2 Mousse, Kahlua 1 82 Mousse, Rum Eggnog 1 8 2

Mushroom Soup, Cauliflower & 49 Mushroom Soup, Cream of 50

1 90

N Nachos 2 9 Natillas de A lmendrado 1 84 Neapolitan Flan from Veracruz 1 7 1 New Mexican Flat Enchiladas 84 Nogada 64 Nopales 5 Nopalitos 5 Nut Sauce 64 Nut Sauce, Chiles in 64

o Oaxacan Red Mole 1 1 2 Onions Yucatan-Style 3 9 Open-Face Snacks 1 02 Orange Bread 1 63 Orangeade 2 1 Oval Rolls 1 64

p Pan de Muertos 1 5 5 Pan de Naranja 1 63 Pan dulce 1 54 Pan Tity 1 80 Panaderia 1 54 Panes 1 54- 1 67 Panque de A rroz 1 76 Panuchos Campeche 1 00 Panuchos Merida 1 00 Papadzules 8 1 Party , Taco 8 5 - 8 7 Pastel a la Federico 1 8 1 Pavo en R elleno Blanco 1 2 1 Pecan Pie 1 7 7 Peineta 1 5 7 Pepitas 5 Pescado al Mojo de Ajo 1 2 8 Pescado A leman 1 3 2 Pescado Capeado en Caldillo 1 29 Pescado con Salsa de Aguacate 1 3 0 Pescado en Salsa Verde 1 3 2 Picadas 1 03 Picadillo 1 08 Pickled Jalapeno Chiles & Vegetables 7 1 Pico de Gallo 34 Picones 1 64 Pie de Jicama 1 76 Pie de Kahlua 1 7 7 - 1 7 9

Pie de Limon 1 7 5 Pie de Pacana 1 7 7 Pie de Pina 1 7 5 Pie, Jicama 1 76 Pie, Kahlua 1 7 7 - 1 7 9 Pie, Lime 1 7 5 Pie , Pecan 1 7 7 Pie , Pineapple 1 75 Pi/oncillo 5

Pineapple, Barbecued Chicken with 1 1 9 Pineapple Pie 1 75 Pineapple Tamales 96 Pineapple Upside- Down Cake 1 8 1 Platanos 5 Platos con Tortillas 7 3 - 1 03 Poblano Sauce, Potato Salad with 65 Poc-Chuc 1 1 3 Polio a la Vinagreta 1 1 7 Polio en Pipian 1 1 8 Polio Estofado 1 1 7 Polio Pibi/ 1 20 Polio Yucateco 1 1 8 Pomegranate Punch 1 3 Ponche de Granada 1 3 Pork, Beans with 1 5 1 Pork, Green Mole with 1 1 3 Pork, Grilled 1 1 3 Pork Loin, Baked 1 1 1 Pork Mole 1 1 4 Pork Sausage, Spiced 1 1 2 Pork Stuffing 1 1 4 Pork Tamales 95 Postre de Mango 1 8 2 Postres 1 68- 1 86 Potaje de Habas 5 2 Potato Salad with Poblano Sauce 6 5 Potato Salad with Shrimp 6 5 Potatoes & Chorizo, Eggs with 1 3 8

Poultry, see Meats & Poultry Pozole Bla nco 46 Press, tortilla 74-75 Pudding, Almond 1 7 4 Pudding, Carrot 1 84

Pudding, Margarita's Bread 1 7 3 Pudding, Rice 1 7 2 Pudding with Cheese, Bread 1 7 2 Puebla-Style Mole 1 1 6 Pumpkin in Syrup 1 74 Punch, Pomegranate 1 3 Puros 1 62

I n d ex

Q Quesadillas 2 3 Quesadillas con Guacamole 1 0 1 Quesadillas del Mercado 1 02 Queso Derritido 3 0 Queso fresco 5 Qu ick Mexican Rice 1 42

R Rajas de Chiles 5, 1 05

Ranch-Style Beans 1 5 3 Ranch-Style Eggs 1 3 5 R ecado Colorado 5, 1 1 6 Red Chile with M eat 1 06 Red Mole, Oaxacan 1 1 2 Red R ice 1 42

Red Snapper Veracruz-Style 1 2 8 Red Wine, Lamb with 1 1 1 Refried Beans 1 49 Relleno Puerco 1 1 4

Rice & Beans 1 39- 1 5 3 R ice Catalina-Style 1 44 R ice Ch icano-Style 1 42 Rice, Chicken & 1 1 9 Rice, H ow to Cook 1 40- 1 4 1 Rice Mexican-Style 1 40 Rice Pudding 1 7 2 Rice Soup, Dry 1 43 Rice Veracruz-Style 1 46 Rice with Bananas 1 47 Rice with Chiles 1 43 R ice with Chorizo 1 44 Rice Flour Cake 1 76 R ing of the Kings 1 5 4, 1 5 6 Rolls, Cigar-Shaped 1 62 Rolls, French 1 6 1 Rolls, Oval 1 64 Rolls, Whole-Wheat 1 59 Rompope 1 6

Rooster's Beak 34 Rosca de los Reyes 1 54 , 1 56

Rum Eggnog 1 6 Rum Eggnog M ousse 1 8 2

s Salad, Cold Meat 1 1 0 Salad Mold, Sangrita 5 8 Salads & Vegetables 5 5 - 7 2

Salmon Snack 2 6 Salpicon 1 1 0 Salsa de Chile Gliero 3 8 Salsa de Chile e n Polvo 3 9 Salsa de Chile y Jitomate 3 3 Salsa de los Machos 3 6 Salsa Favorita 34 Salsa Fresca 3 3 Salsa Jitomate de Elva 3 9 Salsa Mexicana 3 3 Salsa para Enchiladas 3 7 Salsa Picante 3 4 Salsa Picante de Carmen 3 6 Salsa Verde 3 6 Salsas 3 2 -40 Sandwiches , Broiled Bean 27

Sandwiches, Central Market, 28 Sangria 1 7 Sangrita de Tomate 1 4 Sangrita Guadalajara 1 3 Sangrita Guadalajara-Style 1 3 Sangrita Salad Mold 5 8 Sangrita. Tomato 1 4 Sardine Canapes 2 7 Sauces 3 2 -40 Sausage , Spiced Pork 1 1 2 Scram bled Eggs, Mexican 1 3 6 Scrambled Eggs, Stonemason 's 1 3 5 Seasoned A chiote Paste 1 1 6 Seasoned Rice 1 46 Semas 1 5 8 Semitas 1 59 Sevillanas 1 86

Seville Cook ies 1 86 Shellfish & Fish 1 24- 1 3 2 Shredded Beef Tacos 8 8 Shredded M e a t 1 09 Shrimp Cocktail 1 26 Shrimp Cocktail Mazatlfm-Style 1 26 Shrimp, Potato Salad with 65 Shrimp Salad 1 27 Shrimp Stuffing for Chiles 69 Shrimp Veracruz-Style 1 3 0 Simple Syrup 2 1 Sling, Mexican 1 5 Snack, Avocado 56 Snack, Jicama 27 Snack, Salmon 2 6 Snacks, see A ppetizers & Snacks Snacks, Open-Face 1 02 Sopa Sopa Sopa Sopa Sopa Sopa Sopa Sopa

de de de de de de de de

Aguacate 5 2 Coliflor y Champiiiones 4 9 Elote 5 1 Elole y Chayote 48 Frijol Maya 50 Lima 45 Nuez de Nogal 54 Polio y Fideo 45

Sopa de Tortilla Mazallan 44 Sopa Seca de A rroz 1 43 Sopaipillas 1 66 Sopas 4 1 -54 Sopes de Maria Elena 1 0 1 Sopes. M ary Ellen's 1 0 1 Souffle, Corn 1 3 6 Souffle de Elote 1 3 6 Soups 4 1 -54 Soups, dry and wet 4 1 , 1 3 9 Special Beans 1 50 Special Custard 1 70

Spiced Chocolate, Mexican 1 3 Spiced Pork Sausage 1 1 2 Squash Seed Sauce , Chicken in 1 1 8 Squash Soup, Corn & 48 Steak, Grilled 1 06 Steak Mayan-Style 1 09 Steak Strips with Vegetables 1 05 Steak Tampico-Style, Grilled 1 05 Stew, Fay 's Green Chile 1 1 0 Stewed Chicken 1 1 7 Stonemason 's Scrambled Eggs 1 3 5 Strained Beans 1 5 3 Strawberry A tole 1 8 Strawberry Drink, Whipped 1 8 Stuffed Chayotes 69 Stuffed Chile Burritos 97 Stuffed chiles 5 5 Stuffing, Pork 1 1 4 Sweet Tamales 96 Sweet Turnovers 3 1 Swiss Enchiladas 8 2 Syrup, Simple 2 1

T Taco Party 8 5 - 8 7 Taco Shells, H o w t o M a k e & F i l l 90 Tacos 7 3 , 8 5 - 9 1 Tacos. Chicken 9 1 Tacos de Machaca 8 8 Tacos de Manuel 89 Tacos de Polio 9 1 Tacos. Chicken 9 1 Tacos. Little 90 Tacos. Manuel's 89 Tacos. Shredded Beef 8 8 Tarnal de Elote e n Cazuela 6 2 Tamale Casse role , Green Corn 6 2 Tamale Dough 94 Tamale Dough, Fresh 94 Tamales 7 3 , 92-96 Tamales. Cheese & Chile 95 Tamales de Pi;;a 96

1 91

I n dex

Tamales de Puerco 95 Tamales de Queso y Chile 9 5 Tamales Dulces 9 6 Tamales, H o w to Make 92-93 Tamales in Foil , H ow to Prepare 94 Tamales, Pineapple 96 Tamales, Pork 95 Tamales, Sweet 96 Tamarind Water 1 8 Tamarindo 5 Tampico-Style Grilled Steak 1 05 Taquitos 90 Tequila, Carrots Flamed with 64 Tequila Daiquiri 1 2 Tequila Sunrise 1 2 Tijuana Tequila del Sol 1 2

Tity's Cake 1 80 Tomatillos 5, 3 2

Tomato Sangrita 1 4 Tomato Sauce, Chile & 3 3 Tomato Sauce , Elva's 3 9 Tomatoes, B e e f Stewed w i t h 1 08 Torrejas 1 6 1 Torta de Cielo 1 80 Tortas Mercado Central 2 8 Torte, H eavenly 1 80 Tortilla Cups, Fi lled 1 03 Tortilla Dishes 7 3 - 1 03 Tortilla press 74-75 Tortilla Soup Mazatlan-Style 44 Tortilla Soup, Lime & 45 Tortilla Strips with Green Chile Sauce 98, 99 Tortillas 5, 73, 74-76 Tortillas, Corn 7 4 Tortillas de Harina 7 6 Tortillas de Maiz 74 Tortillas, Flour 7 6 Tostada de Queso 2 8 Tostadas 9 9 Tostadas, Cocktail 2 3 Tostadas de Carne 98 Tostadas, Meat 9 8 Tostaditos 2 3 Totopos 30 Tripe Soup 5 3 Tropical Salad 6 1 Tuna, Chiles Stuffed with 70

Turkey Breast with White Stuffing 1 2 1 Turnovers, Cheese 2 3 Turnovers, Meat 3 1 Turnovers, Sweet 3 1

{] U x mal Avocado Salad 56 U xmal M ixed Salad 56

y Yerba buena 5

Yucatan Fiesta 1 04, 1 2 2- 1 23 Yucatan-Style Onions 3 9 Yucatecan Chicken 1 1 8

v Vallejo-Style Eggs 1 3 5 Vanilla 2 , 1 68 Vegetable-Beef Soup 42 Vegetables, see Salads & Vegetables Vegeta bles, Pickled Jalapeno Chiles & 7 1 Vegetables, Steak Strips with 1 05 Veracruz, Neapolitan Flan from 1 7 1 Veracruz-Style Fish Soup 54 Veracruz-Style Red Snapper 1 2 8 Veracruz-Style R ice 1 46 Veracruz-Style Shrimp 1 30 Vermicelli Soup, Chicken & 45 Vinaigrette, Chicken 1 1 7 Vivian's Green Salad 7 2

z Zanahorias con Tequila 64

Zihuatanejo, Green R ice from 1 47 Zucchini Soup, Cream of 49 Zucchini with Corn 62 Zucchini with Cream 6 1

Volteado de Pina 1 8 1

w Walnut Soup 54 Wet soups 4 1 Whipped S trawberry Drink 1 8 White R ice 1 47 White S tuffing, Tu rkey with 1 2 1 Whole-Wheat Rolls 1 5 9

x Xochitl Chicken Soup 46

The recipes for Mole Poblano (Mole Puebla-Style) , Frijoles con Puerco (Beans with Pork) , Sopa de Lima (Lime & Tortilla S o u p ) , Pa n u chos Merida ( Pa n uchos M erida-Style) and Pescado en Salsa Verde (Fish in Green Sauce) first appeared in Home, the magazine supplement of the Los A ngeles Times. The recipe for Tamal de E10te en Cazuela (Green Corn Tamale Casserole) first appeared in "The Big Cheese News . "

The author wishes to thank Richard Merrill, Instituto Moderno d e Lenguas Extranjeras, Leon, Guanajuato; Maria Marquez de Merrill; Bertha Delfin de Rodriquez; Tity Rodriquez Delfin; Escuela Industrial Adolfo Lopez Mateos, Veracruz; Humphreys Family Center, Garfield Community Adult School, East Los Angeles, and the many cooks in Mexico and the southwestern United States who contributed to this book. NOTICE: The information contained in this book is true and complete to the best of our knowledge. All recommen­ dations are made without any guarantees on the part of the author or HPBooks. The author and publisher disclaim all liability incurred in connection with the use of this information.

1 92

1 2 . 2 2 5 1 8 6 3 2 7 5 3 2 8

i DELICIOSO !

Preparing fresh chiles, pages 8 and 9

Chayotes Rellenos (St�ffed Chayotes), page 69

Enchiladas de Queso (Cheese Enchiladas), page 78

Huevos Moteleiios (Eggs Motul-Style), page 1 34

Now you can prepare authentic home-style Mexican food right in your own kitchen. It's easy, inexpensive, and you'll love the results. Serve tacos, tortillas and enchiladas. Serve genuine corn tamales, homemade salsa and delicious carne as ada. Enj oy Mexican holiday breads, colorful fruit drinks and superb salads. Your family and friends will shout, "iFantastico l "

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BIPAD 681 1 2 I S B N 0-89586-038-4 Caplrotada de Margarita (Margarita's Bread Pudding), page 1 7 3

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