Mesembs

Mesemb s (English edition, revision 0.3, 2004/02/13)

Sysnopsis Copyright (C) 1964-2003 Masaki Goro, Tanaka Kisata, Tanaka Masato. All rights reserved. English translated material Copyright (C) 2003 Kuroneko. All rights reserved. This document is the English edition of the book "Mesembs" originally written by; Masaki Gorou : "Generalities" Tanaka Kisata : "Particulars" Tanaka Masato : "Photographs" Publishing English edition is granted by courtesy of Mr.Tanaka Shinji. The main subject of the book is globular Mesembs. The book was published 1964/08/01 by Nishikien with support of Shinsyuu shaboten sennmonka renmei. You can read the original in the following site. "Conophytum", http://www.shiojiri.ne.jp/~tanaka/mesen/index.html The latest version can be downloaded from the following site. "Evolution Green", http://www.h5.dion.ne.jp/~paw/succulents/index.htm

Generalities "Mesembryanthema" "Ficoidaceae Juss. emend.Hutchinson" After the establishment of genus Mesembryanthemum L, there were a lot of discussions for classification. Omitting the twists and turns, the conclusion is the above, for now. The one who cultivates and appreciates Mesembs may have to bear this in mind. In short, Mesembs is the generic term which indicates 4 sub-families related to Ficoidaceae. However, we do not discuss this any further. Germans abbreviate this longsome scientific name as 'Mesembs' and Japanese apply 'Mesen' to it. Kanji characters that denote "female cactus" are also applied for the word according to the pronunciation. This application seems appropriate for the appearances of Mesembs and sounds pretty. The scientific name means "midday flower". However, about 200 of them bloom in the evening or in the night. Mesembs consists of over 120 genera and 3,000 species. It is reported that about 800 species have been imported in Japan and about 400 species

would exist still now. Although some of them are annual plants, most of them are perennial plants. They have small tree-like or grass-like figures. About 60% of them are easy to cultivate and if protection against cold is given, cultivation in the open air is possible as a subject of gardening. Unfortunately, it will take some time to be popular among ordinary gardeners. Some

of

Mesembs

have

globular shape as the result of highly thickened leaves, which present ultimate beauty with peculiar appearance in all plants. Lightly thickened ones have only a little thicker leaves than usual plants. Medium ones have thicker leaves whose cross section is triangle or round. Highly thickened ones have only one leaf which originally was two leaves and the shapes are diverse; cylindrical, spindle-shaped, oval, egg-shaped, globular or a like. "globular Mesembs" is the general term for these. Almost all thickening begin as the projection of the underside of the leaves. In the case of globular Mesembs, the part which we tend to think "the top and the side" are the underside in deed. There are factors for appreciation in this part; color, pattern, window and hair. On the other hand, the original upper side of the leaves has changed into only a fissure and is not attractive. The

beauty

of

globular

Mesembs lies in the back view. The forms of globular Mesembs

are

a

kind

of

mimicry. They imitate a stone and gravel of their habitats for getting rid of animals and exploiters.

I

assume

the

globular Mesembs at

their

habitats are covered with dirt

and

hide

themselves

among stones. It is common that plants rest their growth in

seasons

of

hard

conditions for growth. Low temperature

and

low humidity are the factors

for

dormancy.

Mesembs rest in the dry season and it depends on the habitat whether the season is summer or winter. They surely will rest when the time comes even if we continue watering. This means they interpret the temperature as the humidity and the logic of the interpretation differs by species. The appearances of Conophytum in the dormancy are extraordinary. Leaves gradually lose moisture and change into thin skins, and these skins cover newly forming leaves during dormancy. With the beginning of growth, new leaves appear shedding off the old skins. It is quite a view to look at the birth of new life. The habitat of Mesembs is the dry area of South Africa. South Africa is vast and the climates vary from severe dry desert climate to mild coastal climate. There are a great number of species and those species including

Mesembs

and

other

succulents have extraordinary and fantastic appearance. Although only the small part of them has been discovered and introduced as subjects for gardening, many of them have been unrevealed as precious stones yet.

Centering South Africa, Mesembs have the distribution area in North Africa, the Mediterranean Sea area, the Atlantic Ocean area, Arabia, the Near East, Australia, South America and North America. In the habitat of Mesembs, there is no frost and the precipitation is extremely little. Furthermore, the dry season alternates with the rainy season. Such a climate determines period of the growth and the dormancy. Since the difference of temperature between day and night is considerable, condensation occurs in the night even in the dry season. For Mesembs which aspire after water, this is an important source of water. The habitat of a species is determined by the difference of the geographical features and the soil, and it stays in a limited local area. As the usual pattern of dry areas in the middle of continents, the pH of the soil is neutral to alkaline. This makes the soil for cultivation should be added a bit of limestone as an ingredient.

Varieties There are problems of how to classify Mesembs in the genetic aspects and the name.

The

outlook

for

solving these problems for the future is bleak. From the point of view of classification, the "socalled variety" of Mesemb corresponds to the layer of 'species'. It is skeptical that amateurs concept.

understand

this

Unfortunately,

Amateurs do not have any academic background and follow authorities meekly without any objection. More often than not, this does not cause any serious trouble. However, when one of them gets a question and tries to solve the problem, he/she may begin to study or may combat with the existing theory. It is like "the blind men who touched just part of an elephant and tried from that to describe the whole animal". Plants are classified mainly by the features of flowers and fruits, and subsequently by the other factors. Furthermore, cytological analysis is often used. Thus, if amateurs try to classify in perspective of the differences of the forms or patterns of leaves that are the main factors for appreciation, sometimes inconsistency occurs in their claims. For instance, they claim that the same species as different species, and vice versa. Scientific names are entitled with the setting of species. Even if two plants have the same species name, the appearances may differ by the localities, individuals and cultivating conditions. They can be seen different for the eyes of amateurs. This misunderstanding comes from a kind of prejudice. Putting a lot of Lithops As and Bs side by side in a line according to the colors and patterns, the right side of Lithops A and the left side of Lithops B resemble each other and telling which is which is impossible. Also there are changes of the scientific names. Someone who meets a plant whose name is new to him or her and misunderstands the plant as a new species. He/She buys it and gets angry afterward. According to merge of species, names of species can be revised or vanished too.

Another problem arises from the common names in Japanese.

They

were

named by amateurs and nurseries freely. They tried to make the most beautiful name. Some names are so beautiful

that

attracted

by

we the

are names

before seeing them, and some names are the results of the lack of literary sense. It might be not a good idea to criticize those names after all. Although there was a case that a plant was imported with a wrong scientific name, a common name in Japanese was given. Since the fact exists as is already, it is too hard to solve these problems mentioned above. We tried to avoid these kinds of problems in the explanations of "Particulars" section of this book, there may be some errors. Please be generous for those. As for common names in Japanese, my friend Mr. Keizou Yasuhara gave us advice. We are deeply grateful for him.

Cultivation (in general) The conditions of the habitat should suit a species. However, those are not always necessary and sufficient for them. Because it is not rare that plants can grow better under the different conditions in a foreign nursery. Thus, it is hasty of us that we resign ourselves to cultivate plants because of the limitation of facility and technique. Even if the conditions we can give them are poor, they might get over the difficulty with the ability of adaptation. In short, there is no need for the conditions which are almost equal to those of the habitat, however, ignoring those are wrong. Those should be studied at a difficulty in cultivation. Popular plants which have been studied deeply are rare, let alone Mesembs. Thus, it is natural that there is not the established way of cultivation of Mesembs. Documents about cultivation of Mesembs can hardly be seen both domestically and internationally. In Japan, cultivation of Mesembs was similar to the one of cactus at first and it failed, because Mesembs cannot be tolerant such a hard transpiration which cactus can get over. Thus, it is common that Mesembs must not be cultivated in the same glasshouse of cactus nowadays.

Temperature The air is insensitive to temperature; not heated easily and not cooled down easily too. Plants, pots and the soil are opposite to this. Thus, the former is cooler than the latter in the daytime and hotter in the night. In the daytime, plants and the air around

them

are

hotter

than

the

temperature of the air above plants without

fairy

good

ventilation.

Unexpectedly, the heat exchange effect of convection of the air is rather poor. This phenomenon has relation with the humidity of the air which will be discussed later and should not be left negligible. Micro-meteological observation like this should be taken into account when dealing with low-profile plants. In the case of cultivating Mesembs, it is considered preferable that the temperature of the daytime and the night differs a lot. This seems understandable from the conditions of habitats of Mesembs. Thus, it is reasonable making a temperature gap by applying good ventilation except winter. It is considered that the suitable temperature for Mesembs is between 15 and 25 degree Celsius. Keeping this condition in spring and autumn is not difficult by proper ventilation. In summer, temperature should be kept in this range by utilizing ventilation fully and shielding the sunlight. In winter of a cold district, temperature should be kept above 5 degree Celsius utilizing straw or vinyl mat, so that plants continue their growth. However, it is harmful to apply too much heat intending to make them grow faster. In a warm district, there is no need of any cold protection, but sometimes unexpected cold waves may come. In these situations without any preparation, a sheet of newspaper covering plants would save them. Mesembs are hardy and even if they got frozen, they can revive except extreme situations. In such a case, gradual thawing by blocking the sunlight is needed. In confusion, wrong path should not be taken. The treat is the same as dealing with a human victim of frostbite.

Humidity The saturation level of the moisture in the air depends on the temperature of the air. The saturation level in the high temperature is higher than the one in the low temperature. Being near the saturation level means high humidity. Although the air is dry in the high temperature of the daytime, humidity goes high after the sunset because of lowering of the temperature. This tendency continues until the morning. If the temperature goes too low and beyond the saturation point, condensation occurs. Even in a desert where extremely dry atmosphere is dominant, condensation occurs in the night and dew is formed. No wonder since the gap of the temperatures between the daytime and the night reaches over 30 degree Celsius. The gap of humidity is considerable too. Desert should be regarded hot and dry in the daytime, cool and humid in the night. The high humidity in proper range encourages the growth of plants and if it goes too much, overgrowth occurs and corruption could be caused. This is the cause of "the drown of Mesembs in the air". Since watering is frequent in the case of cultivation of flowers and

vegetables in a glasshouse, good ventilation with great care is

usually

necessary.

Compared with this, only the low humidity is required in the case of Mesembs and it is easier than the other plants. However,

failures

can

be

caused by the carelessness. The point is not to regard the overgrowth Although

as cactus

preferable. can

be

cultivated in such a way, it is a gateway

to

corruption

for

Mesembs. The humidity around Mesembs should be considered very high like temperature near the soil, if there is not much ventilation, especially after the watering. In the case of cultivation in a glasshouse other than Mesembs, it is usual to water on passages or benches for getting high humidity, expecting better growth of plants. This is clearly coming from the consideration to distinguish humidity and moisture of the soil. When we come across growing disorders of Mesembs, we tend to assume the cause is the excess moisture of the soil. Since excess moisture of the soil necessarily results in excess humidity especially in a glasshouse, such a hasty conclusion is tend to be drown. The only way to solve the problem coming from the high humidity is ventilation. Ventilation lowers both humidity and the amount of moisture of the soil. According to the season, it lowers the temperature too. Some people are afraid of the possible delay of the growth caused by this lowering of the temperature and hesitate

to

ventilate

well.

However,

compared with the possible risks, it is clear which should be given the high priority. The effect of high humidity on plants

is

remarkable

under

the

circumstance

of

temperature.

Ventilation

should

be

high

utilized

for

lowering both humidity and temperature. From spring to autumn, ventilation

is

required.

Especially, ventilation required after

in

enough should

be

summer

and

watering.

winter,

Even

ventilation

in

after

watering is reasonable. It is popular misunderstanding that evaporation is accelerated keeping temperature high in an airtight condition. Considering the movement of the heat in a constant volume of a glasshouse, it is understandable. In general, plants for appreciation are cultivated in the high humidity and it is assumed that juicy plants are preferable. Experts of cultivating Mesembs follow this idea too and the humidity in their glasshouse is considerably high. The art on the verge of corruption can be seen there. The machinelike exquisite skill makes such an artistic temperature and humidity control possible. Beginners should not follow this. It will be described later, in the case of unavoidable high humidity coming from the structure of a glasshouse or the circumstance, considerable effort and scheme are required for the management. Sunlight Sunlight led into a glasshouse should be shaded at a certain level except winter. The degree of the shading

should

be

controlled

according to the intensity of the sunlight. In the case of a glasshouse, painting white paint on the outside of glass is popular method of shading. If the thickness of the paint is thin or

uneven, plants get unexpected burn. Valuable young seedlings or brags may be lost at a time. Especially, this kind of accident occurs in the early spring or in the early autumn. Since in these periods, the sunlight and glass make an almost right angle and certain amount of the sunlight penetrates glass without enough reflection. Furthermore, since the plants in the early stage of the growth are delicate, they can be burnt easily. Disaster can be caused on a sunny day. In such an accident, beginners become desperate and experts ridicule themselves with a wry smile. It is often the case that a great baldness appears in a few hours in a beautifully grown colony of Conophytum which likes mild sunlight. Shading using paint is controlled by changing the thickness of the paint according to the season, so that everyday maintenance is not applicable. Contrary to this, blinds are ideal but the management is troublesome. The white paint is made of hydrated lime and water. If sticking substance is added, it cannot be peeled off easily. Notice should be paid after a heavy rain. When white paint cannot be scraped off easily, diluted hydrochloric acid works. Since drops of hydrochloric acid damage plants, some means are needed to prevent this. After removing the paint, hydrochloric acid should be removed enough. Wiping with diluted ammonia neutralizes hydrochloric acid and subsequent washing with water several times makes it thorough. In the case of ordinary white paint, there is almost no need of peeling off. However, scraping is only the way of removing and it is a heavy job. The intensity of sunlight varies in some degree at places even in a glasshouse. The nearer the place is to glass, the stronger the sunlight is. However,

the

intensity

of

the

sunlight stays almost constant in the range over 40-50cm from glass. Thus, Lithops should be placed near glass and Conophytum should be placed far from glass.

Watering It is said that knowing the knack of watering takes 3 years. Experts say, "The complexion of a plant tells its thirst". Beginners should be prudent. Watering is a delicate job. The plants which prefer dry atmosphere like Mesembs need a little water and a lot of air. If the amount of water is excess, a lot more air is needed. In the condition of the latter, hydroponics is utilized for cultivating cactus and it would be applicable for Mesembs. However, in the case of normal cultivation using soil, providing excess amount of water makes lack of the air. Thus, taking the conditions of the former is the only way. It is a tough question to put the range of the suitable moisture of the soil for Mesembs into figures or words. However, it is similar to that of cactus and makes normal plants withered. It is the time to water, when humidity gets the lower limit of the suitable range. The amount of given water should excess the suitable range so that water reach all around the pot evenly. When the soil becomes old and permeation becomes poor, more water is required. Although there is difference according to watering skill, the soil is in excess

moisture watering

after in

any

case. The amount of moisture comes in the suitable range in 1-3 days. The faster, the better.

time

The

suitable

for

watering

can be known from the

color

of

the

surface of the soil or the terra-cotta pots. More precise time can be known by digging a hole in the soil and checking inside. Although certain amount of water is needed for proper watering, enough and minimum is preferable. It is not easy and the skill can be acquired from experience. If water comes out from the bottom of a pot, it is over-watering. The proper amount of water makes the soil of the bottom of a pot wet a little. Digging and checking the soil should be done and the watering skill will be refined. If the same soil is used for all the pots, estimation becomes easier. As for the watering during the dormancy of Mesembs, there are two opinions; need or no need. Since there is no reliable and precise test data, the conclusion is refrained here. Both parties have their own accounts. However, it is hard to conclude physiology with necessary and sufficient proof and it seems that both accounts have defects. This subject has close relationship to temperature and humidity, and watering alone should not be argued. The reason of the latter is avoiding the death of roots coming from complete drying. Among such ideas, there is an idea that watering should be done after the sunset, avoiding the high temperature and high humidity in the daytime. It seems reasonable that watering after sunset has the similar effect of dew of the habitat. Anyway watering during dormancy needs prudence and it is an uphill task rather than the one of the growing season. Incidentally, the author belongs to the no watering party. There is a proverb; "Let sleeping dogs lie."

Glasshouse Details of variety and structures of glasshouses are not stated and the observation specialized in Mesembs is the subject here. A glasshouse is not isolated completely from the outside environment. The outside environment has strong influence and sometimes it is critical. Buildings and trees nearby function as wind protection or make ventilation poor and temperature high. Sometimes it works positively

and

sometimes

negatively

according

to

the

it

works season.

Especially, intrusion of the transpiration from outside bush, trees and grass is not negligible. The garden surrounded by dense forest may possibly get a certain amount of sunlight but the high humidity would cause a problem.

Frame There are varieties of frames; penthouse/gambrel gentle/steep small/large

slant

roof, of

volume and so

roof, on.

Although each has advantages and disadvantages, detail is not stated here. Frames which are directly built on the ground tend to be humid because

of

moisture

from

the

ground and the humid air of the lower air layer. The deeper a frame is built under the ground or the higher the ground water level, the stronger the tendency is. It is a method to shut out moisture from the ground by putting biggish gravel on the floor. Frames built over a building do not suffer such a trouble. Furthermore, the air of upper layer is dry. Those frames tend to be rather too dry. Too much dryness should be prevented by occasional sprinkling on the sand or charcoal placed on the floor. Attacks from pests are extremely fewer than the ground level frames. However, protections against cold and strong wind are required. Since frames have less volume than glasshouses, fluctuations in temperature and humidity is more sudden than glasshouses and more frequent window management is required.

Glasshouse Generally,

glasshouses

made for cactus are used. Since the height of cactus is low, the height of the roof is near

the

ground

and

the

passage is dug under the ground.

This

structure

is

reasonable from the point of view of keeping temperature warm but not reasonable from the point of view of ventilation. Usually, the skylights are small and few. As nurseries are trying to improve the structural defects to get better ventilation, we would like to complain of insensitivity to design such a structure. On the other hand, it is surprising that experts handle them effectively. I am not sure whether the experts know Mesembs have such adaptation ability against environment, but their bold deed indicates their skill as masters which could not be attained easily.

Pots For cultivation of Mesembs, it is better to choose pots which are fast to dry. However, the degree of the moisture of soil comes from the composition and coarseness of the soil and watering habit, to put extremely, any pot can be used with sufficient skill. Empirically, square hard-baked pots like Tokoname-ware are suitable for an assortment of seedlings and terra-cotta pots and Raku-ware are suitable for general use. Raku-ware is expensive, broken easily and people have likes and dislikes against it from the point of view of appreciation. However, it is most preferable from the point of view of the cultivation. Terra cotta is thin and has coarse surface. Too much dryness can be improved by outside glazing. The drainage hole of the bottom is designed large. Since Terra cotta does not have any defect, it is recommendable for beginners. Square hard-baked pots are used for assortment, cutting and germination. It is an advantage that they can be put without dead space.

The proper size pot seems a little small in contrast with the size of a plant. Sheer beginners tend to use big pots and it is wrong. It may come from shallow thought like this; "Big pots should grow plants well" or "Since it is big enough, troublesome transplanting is not necessary for a while". Seeking good ventilation, roots grow toward the periphery and bottom of the pot and thin roots are formed at the ends. Although the main function of roots is taking water in, thick roots which are in the center of the pot only work as pipes. Big pots are rather harmful because they need a lot of soil and plumbing in vain and make ventilation and drainage poor. It is reasonable from the fact mentioned above that an almost similar size pot is proper for transplantation in a certain case. From the artistic viewpoint, the unbalance seems rather funny. On the other hand, too small pots are hard to control the moisture of the soil. Thus, certain volume is required for pots. If a plant is too small, put other plants together in a pot so that the size of pot gets proper. In the case of terra cotta, the minimum size of a pot is 3 inch in diameter. Thus, an assortment should be formed for seedlings. Sort of cramming makes the growth fine. Although the size of the drainage hole tends to be seen negligible, it has close relationship to drainage and ventilation. There are pots which have small drainage hole or biased small hole. If it is too small, it can be enlarged with a hammer easily.

Crocks Crocks are put between the drainage hole and the soil. They prevent leakage of the soil and

make

drainage

and

ventilation good. Broken pieces of charcoal, pots, bricks, clods and a mixture of these are used. Proper amount of crocks for a pot seems sort of too much in the eyes of beginners. It is a good example that experts of bonsai (dwarf tree in a pot) use considerable crocks for such a small and shallow pot. Pebbles and gravel have good drainage and ventilation ability but should be avoided because they do not keep water well. In the case of clods, they must be strong enough not to be broken into small pieces. It is not easy to find such thing. The amount of crocks used for a pot is about 1/4-1/3 to the height of the pot. Small pots need less and big pots need more than this. Big crocks should be used for the lower layer and small ones should be used for the upper layer. Diligence will be rewarded. Watering Can Ideal stream is thin, still and even. Thus, the tip of the watering matters most. The tip should have the shape of a lotus flower, be made of cooper or brass, and have fine holes that do not make streams crossed. Since smooth watering streams are not made without considerably strong water pressure, the pipe of the watering can should be long. Popular watering can made in English is designed fine from the point of

view of

these. A

needle

or

something hard should not be used when holes are choked. Such dealing enlarges

holes

or

makes

water

streams in wrong direction. Cheap watering cans used for sprinkling a garden or a street are not designed for cultivation use.

Soil Soil which is taken from the habitat does not necessarily work well. There is an old example; the soil brought all the way from Mexico for cultivation of cactus did not work well. There is no expert of bonsai who cultivates bonsais in the soil of pinewood. The

study

of

soil

has

progressed, but it will take long time that cultivators assimilate theories as common knowledge. For now, funny opinions far from the truth are rampant. It is common that a mixture of soil, sand and compost is used for a potted plant. This is reasonable theoretically and empirically. In short, demands of plants are met by giving them the composite soil which has characteristics of each materials. Composite soil is used for Mesembs too. "The more fertile, the better"; this is too lay thinking and it is similar that incompetent farmers give vegetables too much fertilizer and hunt the latest fertilizers. Agriculture has stepped into the times of soil from the times of fertilizer. The composite soil for Mesembs requires good drainage, good ventilation and good water holding ability. As these conditions are the same with other plants, there is no need to emphasize. However, it is

often

normal

the

case

that

plants

can

somehow survive, even if they are not given the three conditions

at

time.

the

In

Mesembs,

the

same

case

these

of

three

conditions could be crucial. Mesembs

requires

the

composite soil which tends to be rather dry but does not dry up completely for a long time.

Varieties of composite soils which have different ingredients and different ratio of ingredients are used for Mesembs. Apart from price and facility, the effectiveness for growth is not so different. Beginners tend to find difficulty which composite soil they should use, but the popular composite soil which also masters of Mesembs are using should be tried first and for the time being. Now take a look at the popular composite soil which is a mixture of sand, compost and limestone, and new type of soil which seems preferable from these few years of my experience and theories. Sand has a good drainage and good ventilation. Compost has good water holding ability and drainage and ventilation are not so bad, if it is not so fine. Thus, the mixture of these two fills all the required conditions. Although soil has unique characteristics, it also has defects. Furthermore, it is difficult to arrange the same characteristics because the characteristics of soil differ according to the locality. Certainly, the characteristic of sand differs according to the locality too, but the difference is not so much. Thus, standardization of composite based on sand should be an excellent idea. This idea might have come from the cultivation technique of bonsai.

Sand Although the sand which is taken from riverbed is the best, the sand

taken

from

mountain

is

applicable. It is said that the sand which is taken from the riverbed of the upper stream and has sharp corners are preferable. Sand may be

different

according

to

the

locality, that is going too far to seek better sand. As a substitute or expecting other effect, new materials like Vermiculite can be used. Red clay of Kantou plane is all right too. The size of sand should be bigger than the one for concrete. 0.5-3.0 mm in diameter is preferable. There is an argument whether extremely fine sand should be removed. Since it has relationship to the habit of watering, there is no generalization for this issue. Sand should be washed before use. There is an opinion that washing is not needed, since sand is not dirty from the first and it is troublesome. However, certain impurities should be implied and cleanliness cannot bear such a thing. Since there is no harm caused by washing, it is recommended.

Compost Compost implies organic matter and minerals, and unapprehended factors

can

be

expected.

Most

important characteristic is it adds the good water holding ability and the good drainage ability to the composite soil. After the early rapid fermentation accompanying matures

very

the

fever,

slowly.

compost

Thus,

the

effectiveness is kept for a long time during cultivation. There are varieties of compost and the characteristics vary. The one which implies substances which cause problems or seeds of weeds should be avoided. Also too fermented and soft one should be avoided because it does not have any good characteristics any more. As compost which is made from cottonseeds, Peat is a well-known product. The main material is cottonseed. Organic matter, minerals and limestone are added, and the mixture

is fermented. Since the main characteristics are coming from the cottonseeds, other materials are not necessarily needed. I think it is the best compost because of its shape, structure, lightweight and good handling. The lees of the cottonseed oil can be used as the material. The recipe of compost is like this. Soak leaves or seeds into water. The proper amount of water makes a trickle when it is clasped by a hand. The moisture lost by fermentation should be added from time to time. It should be piled over 2 to 3 times so that the fermentation proceeds evenly and continuously. If the moisture is maintained properly, the procedure completes in about 3 months and the result will be fine. Too long fermentation is nonsense. Although there is an opinion claiming the need of half a year fermentation, it must come from poor skill or timidity. After fermentation, it should be dried enough and can be stored. It is said that the preferable trees for compost are evergreens like oak and chinquapin or deciduous trees like Japanese oak. Good compost is fermented enough but the shape of leaf is kept and could be cut by hands easily. The one which does not have original shape of leaf any more and seems like mud should be avoided. Adding a little nitrogen and superphosphate of lime makes compost plump and soft. Lime Shells, limestone

mortar

and

powder

are

used. Although there are some opinions about the superiority and inferiority of these materials, those are not coming from precise experimental data and it seems only narration.

the

Since

art

of

oyster

shells for chicken farming is easy to get, it is used in general.

Charcoal Charcoal husks

made

from

rice

is

popular.

It

makes

ventilation,

drainage

and

water

holding ability good, includes a little minerals, makes the temperature of the composite soil warm, makes the composite soil plump and soft. Although there are people who do not use it, it is too good to be left. Composition Popular composition of materials is 70% of sand, 20% of compost and 10% of charcoal. Not so strict. It is a wrong thought that a little more compost raises plants well. It will make plants leggy. Mixing them is done in a moisturized state. If materials are dry, they do not mingle together evenly. The completed composite soil should be moist; not slip off from a hand but not adhesive to a hand. In this state, it can be used for potting immediately. If it dries up, add some water and mix it well again. Sterilization It is all right that sand and compost are sterilized by airing in the sunlight. However, perfect sterilization is not expected from the sunlight. Sterilization should be done in the composite state. Chemicals can be used but it also needs troublesome process. Steam sterilization is recommendable method especially for an amateur who uses only small amount. Put composition into a cloth bag and steam the bag in a rice cooker for 30 minutes. There is no chance the nourishment

volatilizes.

There

is

another method; roasting on a hot plate. However, the sterilization is done completely, compost tend to be burnt. If sterilization is done in the degree that compost is not burnt, the sterilization tends to be not enough. It is naive to think that fire is stronger than steam.

New soil Although

new

composition

is

stated in "particulars" section, some are added here. The composite soil for Mesembs inevitably implies soil in foreign

countries.

apprehended

Since

and

soil

has

unapprehended

effects on plants, adoption of soil should be considered. However, unlike sand, there are varieties of soil and the characteristics are different. So the choice

of

the

soil

matters.

Most

required characteristics are the lump of the soil should not corrupt easily. The soil which has such a characteristics cannot

be

Furthermore,

gotten notice

everywhere. is

required

because soil can bring in germs unlike sand. As for the lumping matter, a newly developed soil conditioner can control the size of the lump. Lumping composite soil is hard to do in the case of sandy soil and is easy if the soil has certain viscosity. Detail is omitted.

Transplantation Best

time

for

transplantation of Mesembs is the beginning of growth after dormancy. However, it is all right to

transplant

growing

them

season

in

for

their some

reason. Annual transplantation is necessary and semiannual transplantation is better. Foreign documents claim transplantation in 2 to 3 years. Although the climate and the cultivation habit are different from those of Japan, it is sort of surprising. A lot of experiences in Japan indicate the effectiveness of transplanting. With the passing of time, soil changes plump and soft to solid and hard, water absorbing ability lowers and nutrition is drained. This makes the growth of plants poor. However, transplantation improves the situation and also gives us a good opportunity to find and cure pests and disease around roots and to check the state of roots. Beforehand with transplanting, damaged parts of roots and considerable thin parts are cut and the wounds should be dried in the shade for a few days not to rotten from there. Since roots have strong regenerative potential, new parts extend in a few days. The soil for transplantation should be moist, plump and soft. This softness is important so that there are enough space for good ventilation and water supply. Thus, the soil should not be pressed by fingers. The lower part of plants is apt to rot, so that the soil should not touch the part by placing a layer of gravel. The pot should be moisturized enough with water before transplanting. In the case of dried pot, it absorbs water from the soil even if water is given on the soil. Namely, it takes time that the water balance among the pot, the soil and watering settles down, like a love triangle. Although it is possible to water immediately after transplanting, it is safe to wait a few days. Especially it is a little risky, if the wound was not dried in the shade for some reason or other. Shading by putting a sheet of thin white paper on the plant for a few days is also needed.

Fertilizer The growth of Mesembs is very slow, so that very little fertilizer is enough for them. Furthermore, little watering does not drain the fertilizer unlike the other plants, so that the fertilization would not be needed until the next transplantation that will be held half a year or a year later. Thus, the claim that especial fertilization is not needed seems reasonable. However, in the case that the soil has little nutrition like Peat or certain nutrition is consumed particularly, additional fertilizer may be needed. Too frequent fertilization is harmful and moderate frequency is safe. It is often the case that too high concentrated liquid fertilizer causes trouble. Ignorance and greed are the source of the cause. The wrong use of fertilizer makes slanders against fertilizer general or certain fertilizers. In the first place, liquid fertilizer is designed to be used diluted. Ignoring this causes troubles and makes a phobia for chemical fertilizer. For general plants chemical fertilizer should be diluted 1/1000, so that 3 to 5 times thinner dilution than the manual says suits Mesembs. The amount which seems extremely little is enough and more than that is risky. Once in 2 to 3 weeks is enough. Oilcake should be diluted so that the diluted liquid has slight color. Kneaded fertilizer is the solid fertilizer made from fermented organic matter. It is recommendable for its convenience that it can be preserved. There are some recipes to make it and here is an example. Mix rape oil and soil at 1 to 3-5 ratio. Knead the mixture with water and make it into sticks like pencils and make them fermented in a box for avoiding harm from pests. During this process, supply moisture sometimes and it will be completed in a few months. If 1/5 of rape oil is replaced with rice hulls and charcoal, it reasonably adds phosphate and potassium. Crack the sticks into a proper size and mix small amount of them in to soil at use. In the case of chemical fertilizer, avoid putting them in soil without dilution. The proper amount is little volume and it is hard to deliver such a small amount even.

Diseases and Pests The progress of pesticides and medicines is remarkable and it is completely different from before the war. Although we tend to be afraid of side effects, it should be used. Since side effects relate to the density of pesticide, notice should be taken. It lowers the risk to apply the sample to some pots for testing. Since pests intrude all the time, periodical supplement of pesticide is required. As for medicines, they aim prevention and not a curative effect, occasional sprinkling is required. Since certain medicines cause side effects, notice should be taken. In the case of disease of roots of Lithops and the like, it can be cured by cutting the affected part in the early stage.

Appreciation and Collection Everyone has the own way of appreciation and collection. Although it may not get the agreement of majority, my opinion is as follows. The goal is to make gigantic colonies. Long-term earnest cultivation is required for this. It may be lovely to cultivate all varieties of Lithops one by one. In the case of cactus, one can be instantaneous great collector, getting a lot of specimen with money through certain connection. However, in the case of Mesembs, this does not work, at least, for now. The colony

maximum differs

size

of

according

to

species. For instance, most of Argyroderma do not split often. The size of leaves of a colony tends to be smaller than the one of solitary plant and some

people

detest

this

tendency. Also there are people who love the bigger plants. Big plants could be cultivated by

giving a lot of fertilizer and water with risk. However, it is almost unavoidable that plants lose their particular color and patterns. Such a conduct comes from distorted aesthetics. As for collection, one plant for each species is not enough. At least, two plants for each species is needed. The way to gigantic colonies is long and it is often the case to study from failures. Knowing the habit of each species and getting the knack of cultivation is required.

PARTICULARS (extracts) This section describes varieties of Mesembs and the cultivating tips.

Lithops Lithops is a succulent plant whose habitat is Great Namaqualand and Little Namaqualand in southeast of Africa. Lithops consists of as many as about 80 species. It is reported that about 80% of them have been imported in Japan. Lithops has no stem and clumps well. A pair of leaves is united into one body which is cylindrical or conical. The fissure at the top indicates the vestige of two leaves. The shape of the top is flat or convex, or slightly concave in particular cases. The top has a lot of variations: some have transparent windows which cover the top partly or fully, some have dots, and some have lines. The color of the body is brownish, bluish, or

whitish. The patterns and windows are dark green, reddish brown, crimson, or grayish green. The shape, color and pattern are mimicry of stones of the habitat and it is quite rare for a plant. A flower appears from the fissure on the top and the color is white or yellow. The period of flowering is long. The size of flower is 3-4cm in diameter. Some of Lithops grow in winter and the others grow in summer. Winter growers begin to grow in September and enter the dormancy in May. Summer growers begin to grow in March and enter the dormancy in October. The flowering season of winter growers is autumn (September to November) and the dormant period is summer (July to August). The flowering season of summer growers is June to July and the dormancy period is winter. Some species are classified neither a winter grower nor a summer grower. In such a case, either treatment suits them. The growing cycle mentioned above is the case of central Japan. According to German documents, most of species grow in summer. It seems that cultivation in winter is hard in a region which is much higher in latitudes than central Japan. As the geography of

Japan north

extends to

from

south

and

climates

vary,

the

difference

should

be

taken into account. The new body of Lithops appears from the fissure at the top, or sometimes from the side of the old body. The new one

assimilates

the

nourishment of the old body. Consequently, the old body changes into thin skin. This regeneration is commonly called ecdysis in Japan, and the season is early spring in the case of winter growers and May to June in the case of summer growers. Although once a year is normal, seedlings tend to regenerate 2-3 times a year. Even adults sometimes regenerate twice a year, however, it is not healthy growth. Regenearation is a peculiar growing process to globular Mesembs and extremely bizarre and fascinating. A fully-grown Lithops often splits into two heads when regenerates. As the result, even it is rare but a colony of 30 heads is formed. Although there is difference among species, multiplication does not occur without healthy growth of the previous year. 10 single heads which flowered autumn split into 20 heads the next spring. The 20 heads split into 40 heads, the 40 head splits into 80 heads, the 80 heads split into 160 heads with age. Of course, this is a dream of cultivators and Lithops

does

necessarily

not increase

twofold. Anyway, it is often the

case

that

Lithops

increases year after year and forms a marvelous colony. A large colony into which

many

years

are

poured has high appreciation value. Although the number of heads in a colony depends on species, species which have small body, species whose bodies are bluish, and winter growers tend to multiply well. There is a colony of bluish species which consists of over 50 heads in my nursery. It seems such a multiplication is limited only in Japan and there is no similar case in the habitat or foreign countries. Dr. Jacobsen of Germany described, "Lithops appears to be happy in Japan" in his great book "A Handbook of Succulent Plants". Although the climate of Japan does not seem best for Lithops, the climate is blessed a little better than Germany and glasshouses enable to reproduce the similar conditions of the habitat to a certain degree. Since every Japanese has good manual dexterity and delicate sensitivity coming from the national characteristics, these facilitate the dealing of seedlings. All these things may have had him describe such a comment. Watering, temperature and exposure to the sunlight are points to notice for cultivating Lithops. Although Lithops requires moisture in the soil in its growing season, alternation between wet and dry is desirable. In the case of half or fully grown up Lithops, both dryness which makes the roots thin and the body withered and water which overflows from the drainage hole are sometimes needed. Frequent unsatisfactory watering does not fit Lithops. It is important to reduce the occasions to wet the body and the surface of the soil. Small ones need more frequent watering and much more water than adults. Light watering is desirable not to wither

seedlings

extremely

during

dormancy. However, in the case of adults or a colony, water should be cut off completely to give them sound sleep. When

the

season

of

dormancy

comes, Lithops gradually loses its vigor, and the body gets withered afterward. Although no false sympathy is needed, occasional water spray after sunset in the

extremely

hot

period

makes

temperature a little low and relieves the shrink. It also softens the mind of the cultivator. As mentioned before, dormancy is indispensable growing process for Mesembs

including

Lithops.

However, they do not idle away the dormancy period in vain. A flower bud and new leaves are being formed at the bottom of the inner body. The shrink coming from dormancy is the contraction before the leap. Watering during regeneration should be prudent. As the swollen new body breaks through the slit of the old body by force, certain laceration is inevitable. In proportion to the growth of the new body, the old body withers. Water should not be poured onto the wound or between the old body and the new body until the new body takes the place of the old body. The watering can which has a small spout or a pitcher is preferable. In the case of seedlings, the recovery is fast and inconsiderate watering pouring onto the heads does not cause serious damage. If water is not given for 1-2 weeks during regeneration, the new

body absorbs the water only from the old body and it accelerates the shift. This is a clever way to return to the normal status as fast as possible. As for temperature, the temperature which human beings feel comfortable suits Lithops. However, summer growers flower in the temperature which is 5-10 degree Celsius hotter than that, it seems that they prefer a little hotter atmosphere. The growing season of winter growers is autumn to spring and it is not so difficult to put them under the proper temperature range using cold protection. It is not necessarily fatal to be exposed to a few degrees below the freezing point or 35-40 degree Celsius, if they are gradually acclimated to such a hard condition. Temperature tolerance is different according to species. Anyway, cold protection with straw mats during night is needed in the north of central Japan in winter, and heat protection with maximum ventilation and shading is needed all over Japan in summer. Lithops likes sunlight so that it is called "children of the sun". The habitat Namaqualand seems that the temperature is high, the soil and the air are dry, and the sunlight is strong in the greater part of the year and we assume Lithops to be exposed to the strong sunlight all the time. However, as it does not have thorns or hair which protects the body from the sunlight like a cactus, it grows among the rocks or among the other plants to protect the naked body. Even if it is a child of the sun, it is too hard to live receiving the strong sunlight almost right on the equator all day long. The sunlight in Japan is far milder than that of the habitat,

and

the

sunlight

coming through the glass is comfortable except summer.

To cultivate them artistically, sunlight and heat protection using shading is needed during May to September. It is handy to paint limewater or to use bamboo blinds for shading. Although the one which is dormant or a seedling needs the shading of a certain degree in summer, light shading Although

is

enough

there

is

in a

general. time

lag

according to regions, there is no need of shading during the later half of September to early half of May in Nagano. As the day is short and the sunlight is weak in winter, the sunbathing should be as long as possible on a sunny day, especially in the region with heavy snowfall. Insufficient sunlight makes the body leggy and atypical, and the color fades. As winter is growing season for winter growers, dust on the glass should be brushed off occasionally with affection. As for the soil, although a lot of troublesome suggestions were proposed, it is a rare plant which demands least for its soil through all succulent plants in deed. Although Lithops is a plant for appreciation and certain amount of fertilizer should be given, there is no need to give a lot of fertilizer and excess fertilizer is rather harmful. Although 80% of sand from riverbed and 20% of peat is safest composition, 1/3 of clod of earth as the bottom layer improves the growth. There is almost no need of worry for drainage. Lithops does not get root rot easily like cacti. The weakest part is the bottom of the body, so that the soil rather needs water-holding ability. It is the best soil which has high viscosity for the clod, almost any soil has enough water holding ability. The proper size of clod is the size of a pea to a thumb. The

main

purpose

of

transplantation is the renewal of the soil. The nutrition of a potted plant

comes only from the soil and the soil should be renewed for the healthy growth. The permeation and the drainage of the soil gradually get worse and watering in a year drains the nutrition. Furthermore, the size of the pot becomes small for the plant as the result of growth. The

best

time

for

transplantation is right after the dormancy and beginning of the growth. If there are a lot of plants, it is impossible to transplant them all at a time during the time. However, there is no harm to transplant them during the growing season. Although a transplantation a year is needed, it seems more than once does not do any good. Famous European authorities claim transplantation in a few years is enough. As they cannot deal with small seedlings because they are too clumsy to use chopsticks, there is no help for it. However, it is strange that they also claim fully-grown up Lithops need transplantation once in a few years. When transplanting a plant, withered roots and too long roots should be cut without hesitation. It makes transplantation easy and growth of new roots fast. If pests are found around the root, pesticide should be sprinkled. Although seed propagation is

common

for

Lithops,

propagation by cutting an offset is possible too. Buying seeds from a reliable nursery is the shortcut. However, it is difficult to get seeds which have high germination foreign

ratio

even

nurseries. It

is

from very

interesting to collect seeds from your own plants. As a Lithops does not pollinate itself, two or more Lithops which have grown

up from seeds are needed for pollination. The parents should be selected carefully because the characters of the pedigrees appear on the children clearly. It is important to select with deep consideration in terms of shape, color and pattern. Although it is sometimes hard to distinguish the species in the case of Lithops, Conophytum and Argyroderma, the features can be known by observation throughout a year. The parent plants are to be cultivated in the same environment and to be made flower at the same period for artificial pollination. As it is difficult to adjust the timing of flowering, it is better to prepare 3-4 or more candidates. In the case of a colony, the flowering period of each head has a time lag and preparing two colonies makes pollination easy. Hybridization without specific scientific purpose should be avoided. Horticulturists must not lose respect to purity of species. If the flowering periods disagree, put down the brush for pollination gracefully and wait until next year with horticultural conscience and serenity. Autumnal Lithops continues to flower a week or more even under fine weather. The pistil opens into a star-shape a few days after flowering, and it is the time to pollinate. Pollen taken from stamen is put on stigma by a soft brush or an edge of a small paper string. As stigma is very small and soft especially at the edge, pollination should be done quite carefully. Pollinated ovary swells day after day and matures completely in 6-7 months. Completed seeds should be taken as it is with the shell and stored for more 5-6 months. If the seeds are sewn without maturity procedure, the germination ratio is very low and the growth is very uneven. Conversely, the seeds completed maturity procedure has quite good germination ratio. The best time for sowing is autumn or spring. September to November or March to April is the preferable time.

If

temperature

can

be

maintained high enough, winter is also

exploitable.

Although

germination starts 5-6 days after sowing to the clean sand taken from a riverbed, sometimes it

takes 1 month to complete. As there are cases that 2-3 months to complete,

quite

long-term

management should be tried for valuable species. The soil for germination is pure sand without any nourishment and

seedlings

should

be

transplanted to the soil which has nutrition to accelerate the growth. Although the soil for seedlings is the same one for grown-ups, the surface should be covered with the layer of sand of 1-2cm in depth. As seedlings are very small and soft, the first transplantation should be done carefully. As all Japanese can use chopsticks well, the skill should be brought into full play. The seeds of Mesembs are small in general. The seeds of Dinteranthus are smallest and the seeds of Conophytum, Lithops, and Ophthalmophyllum follow. The size of a seedling is proportional to the seed and it is about the size of a grain of millet or rice at the first transplantation. The growth after the transplantation is fast and the seedling which is sown in spring sheds off the skin in summer and the diameter reaches 1cm in a year. It takes 3-4 years for flowering from the germination and multiplication into two comes the next year at best. Furthermore, it takes a few more years to reach 5-6 heads. Thus, a large colony is valuable and its value is proportional to the numbers of heads. However, it is safe to divide for multiplication in the case of valuable and vulnerable species. Dividing an offset is easy; cut a head from the roots by a sharp knife, dry the wound for a few days in shade and plant it on sand. Roots extend after 1-2 weeks later and transplant it to the soil which has nutrition

and

cultivate

it

ordinarily.

Although the best time for cutting is the beginning of the growth after dormancy, roots extend during all the growing season.

Conophytum Conophytum is the one of the two noblest families ranked with Lithops in Mesembs. The habitat is the same to that of Lithops; Great Namaqualnad and Little Namaqualand. According to documents, the family consists of about 300 species. It was introduced to Japan almost at the same time as Lithops was. Some of round-shaped Conophytum, L.pseudotruncatella and L.pseudotrurcatella "Mundtii" were imported on the heels of the other. Although there are not enough records to tell how many species have been imported to Japan, about 100 species have got Japanese names. Some of them have multiple names, and some of them have different names but they are identical in deed. Furthermore, some of them have scientific name only. Thus, it is difficult to grasp the real figure. Also a lot of new species have been introduced recently, Conophytum family is getting larger than Lithops family these days. It is very difficult to explain the shapes of Conophytum. Dr.Jacobsen has classified Conophytum into 45 types. Shapes of Conophytum differ by the way of cultivation. Also Conophytum changes its shape according to the season. It seems there is no end if details

are

taken

into

account.

Conophytum are grouped into 3 types in Japan; round type, saddle type and mitten type. This grouping is only for the sake of convenience; some fit for the name really well and some does not fit so much. Also difference can be seen in each type. As for round type, there are difference in size, width, height, degree of roundness, and flatness of the top. As for saddle type, there are two humps, however, the depth of the dent varies. Mitten type has prominent two projections and there is a ditch between them and the depth of the ditch varies, too. In general, mitten type is bigger than the other types. The skin of Conophytum is flat and smooth or has velvety cilia. Dots, lines, pattern and the color differ by species. The skin and the odd-looking shape display various expressions; smile, doze, shyness, coquettishness and so on. It is really full of expression. Besides, it changes the expression when it gets swelling by watering. The shape and color of flowers of Conophytum are also full of variety. The diameter varies from 3cm to less than 1cm. The color is yellow, white, purple, red, pink, brown, rosy and so on, and the variety is richer than that of Lithops. 1/3 of Conophytum are nocturnal, and some of them present the group dancing of nymphs in cool autumn nights for a few weeks. The

form

of

Conophytum

in

dormancy is more distinct than any other Mesembs. In general, the dormant season is summer except some species like C.frutescens. The body withers and becomes

grayish

white

without

exception. The newly growing body has already been tucked up inside the old

body. The dormant period is about 3 months long; from the end of May to the end of August. However, there is a little difference among districts and species. The growth resumes in the lingering summer heat. The new body appears by breaking through its old skin after 1-2 watering in the season. Literally, it is regeneration. As it is often the case that multiplication into two or more can be observed, it is quite pleasant season. A colony of round type can reach 60 heads and that of mitten type can reach 40 heads. Multiplication is the result of the healthy growth of the previous year and there are cases that an old individual does not multiple. Increase of heads means a gain in appreciation value and it is pleasure for both professionals and amateurs. It depends on the species and the cultivation technique but heads usually increase twofold. Starting single head, the count of heads reaches 32 heads in 5 years, 128 heads in 7 years, 1024 heads in 10 years. As mentioned above, Conophytum have lovely and beautiful forms, display colorful flowers, the extraordinary growing process, and gorgeous colonies with age. Furthermore it increases twofold. Conophytum are plants of living treasure indeed. The

cultivation

of

Conophytum is similar to that of Lithops. However it is a little easier than Lithops in general. Although Conophytum should be moist during the growing season, occasional cutoff of water is needed as a short rest and for its health and beauty. Watering

during

dormancy

should be prudent. Although species which has large body like mitten type has stamina which is proportional to its volume and complete cutoff of

water does not cause any trouble, 3 months of cutoff of water may kill the small one like round type or saddle type. It depends on the sunlight, temperature, ventilation

humidity during

and

dormancy,

however, occasional watering to prevent excess withering is needed. As Conophytum is far more complicated species than Lithops as it can be seen in their forms and their sizes, it is obvious that the growing

seasons

and

dormant

seasons are not uniform. Although there are species whose growing periods are very short from their appearances, somehow it seems a little improper to leave them in half dormancy without water during the rest of the time. In the countries which have comparatively clear four seasons like Japan, the growing cycle of plants is similar to the calendar of human beings. However, in the country which has extremely ambiguous change of the season from the viewpoint of temperature, it seems

that

perennial

plants

follow the cycle of humidity. However, it might be wrong to

leave

which

small

has

Conophytum

extremely

short

growing period in half dormancy for a long time. Although there are not many documents which state the detail of the climate of the habitat, it is what cultivators of Mesembs want to know most. There are some species in large

mitten

type

like

C.frutescens which has a unique growing

cycle.

This

species

begins its growing cycle in June, regenerates

immediately,

and

comes into bud at the same time and flower in June to July. The growth stops in September and there is no change until the next June. It is really an odd species. However, it is better to water occasionally

even

during

dormancy. It is very smart of them to minimize transpiration by covering the body with the old skin completely. Middle and large size species can live for 3 months without water. If the rainy season is long and humidity is high, or there is unexpected water supply coming from the leak from the roof or whimsical watering, the new body comes out from the old skin. Without any water supply, transpiration makes the soft new body withered extremely. Thus, in such a case, occasional watering is required. The body should be kept as dry as possible during watering. Especially, as a cluster has a lot of old skins and does not dry easily, attention should be paid. However, if there

are a lot of pots, it cannot be helped to water them from over the heads at a time according to the limitation of time and labor. In such a case, watering on a sunny day is the best option and water on the surface and among bodies should be dried as fast as possible utilizing ventilation except in mid winter. The one which consists of a few heads or less can be watered from over the heads. Conophytum is also a "children of the sun" and it needs a lot of sunlight. However, it needs a little weaker sunlight than Lithops; 80% of that of Lithops seems suitable. As mentioned before, the size and form of Conophytum vary and proper amount of sunlight varies too. Although it is considered common that large species need much sunlight than small ones, the color of the body and the flower should be taken into account. Yellow and white reflect sunlight well and it is considered that the one which has one of these colors lives in considerably strong sunlight in the habitat. The one which has brown, pink or red flower follows these, and purple is the next. As Lithops has flower of yellow or white only, mitten type Conophytum which has large body and yellow flower should be put under the sunlight almost the same level to that of Lithops. Species which has flower of dark color should be put under weaker sunlight.

Although it is the same to Lithops that full sunlight in the growing season and shading in the dormancy are suitable, small species needs heavier shading than that of Lithops. The shortage of sunlight in the growing season not only makes the body leggy, the form atypical, and the color fades, but also makes them weak and induces rot. Therefore, cultivation under the glass without any shading is desirable during its peak of growth, namely between late autumn to winter. Cold tolerance is similar to that of winter growing Lithops; kind of hardy. The minimum temperature is the freezing point. Heat tolerance is much higher than that of Lithops which rests without skin in summer. The soil for Conophytum is similar to that of Lithops. However, as small round pots are often used for Conophytum, adding granular soil is effective. As there is almost no worry of root rot, like Lithops, it is sensible to reduce the frequency of watering applying the soil which has sort of good water holding ability. The suitable season for transplantation is September to October which is the early stage of the growth. However, any time in the growing period is fine. Although foreign documents state transplantation once a few years is enough, once a year is required because nutrition is lost, the acid from the root induces oxidization, and drainage gets worse in the case of small pot cultivation. Mentioned before, the growth in its peak is remarkable and fresh soil becomes new growth. The withered thin roots and old soil should be removed from

the plant which is taken out from a pot. If lice are found around roots, pesticide should be sprinkled. Also it is a chance to remove the old skin and divide offset from rootstock. Although certain amount of the old skin in a cluster has a kind of beauty, it should be removed not to keep the base part wet. Removing the old skin is also preferable from the viewpoint of the standard aesthetics. As Conophytum has short roots, it should be planted in shallow. Tall ones should be supported with small gravel. Propagation can be done by seed or division. Conophytum is the species which multiplies very well, dividing offsets is popular propagation method. The suitable season for division is early September when is the early stage of the growth. Although the divided offset extends the root in 2 weeks, it takes more time for some species, if the timing is late. In the case of Lithops, division is rarely done without some exception. However, in the case of Conophytum, it is often the case that multiplication rate gets worse, the individuals become small, long or thin, the form of the colony becomes bad after a colony reaches its limit. In such a case, division should be done. In the case of especial propagation, the one which has good multiplication ability should be chosen. The limit of quantity of heads in a colony differs by species. In general, species which has small body tends to form a large colony and species which has large body tends to

form a small colony in number. In my experience, C.notatum and C.pictum

reach

C.elishae

reaches

200

heads,

40

heads,

C.springbokense C.muscosipapillatum

and reach

30

heads. Dividing the offset of the lower part of the colony which has reached the limit keeps the growth well and the form of the colony beautiful. Transplantation is also a good time to divide offsets. The heads should be cut by scissors at first. Subsequently, the wound should be cut by a safety razor cleanly. In the case of small species, 2-3 heads can be divided and planted together. However, in the case of dividing a new body of mitten type, notice should be paid. Although the suitable place for cutting is the nearest part of the body, root does not extend from there if the tissues of the cutting part are damaged. The divided head should be dried in shade for a few days and planted in clean sand from a riverbed. Root extends soon. It begins to grow vigorously after being transplanted to ordinary soil. It is difficult to get seeds of certain species. Conophytum does not self-pollinate itself generally like Lithops, and another individual of the same species is needed. As it is often the case that offsets from an individual have spread throughout Japan, it is difficult to pollinate even if another individual can be gotten somehow. Especially, round type which multiplies easily falls into this case. Adults of some mitten type and saddle type which are raised from seeds can be gotten and it is pleasure to raise them from seeds.

Purity of species is important from the viewpoint of horticultural conscience and

cross-pollination

should

be

abstained like the case of Lithops. Although the way of pollination and the timing are the same to those of Lithops, the growth is much slower than that of Lithops. In the case of mitten type, the shape is round the first year, the center bulges a little and red line of the keel appears the second year, and it looks like mitten in some way the third year. Although it takes two more years to form the particular shape, cutting accelerates it relatively. Multiplication occurs in 3 years in the case of early grower but it is difficult to distinguish the species from such a seedling. Like this, the growth of Conophytum from seeds is much slower than the other plants. However, it is pleasure to live with the seedling and observe it calmly. It takes 5 years from seed to flowering and 5 more years to grow to complete adult. Although most cultivators have to wait 5 to 7 years, thankfully, it seems God gives them extra lifetime. Seedlings are very small and should be kept in the proper moisture not to dry for about 2 years. It seems reasonable to acclimate to the ordinary environment from the third year. Healthy Conophytum almost does not suffer from diseases. Although too long high humidity period makes the bottom of the body rot, small gravel laid on the surface of the soil prevents rot as mentioned before. Much moisture of the soil, high humidity, and shortage of sunlight induce fungus. Germicide is effective in such a case. Although some of mitten type suffers from a black spot, the cause and the remedy have not been found yet. Fortunately, this disease is not infectious and the spot does not spread. However, the spot will not disappear completely

even

after

several

times

of

regeneration. As for pests, except root lice mentioned before, red lice gather to the body. Pesticide should be used in such a case.

Ophthalmophyllum The habitat is southeast of Africa

and

Stunted,

no

Great

Namaqualand.

stem

and

highly

thickened. The body consists of a pair of leaves merged into one. The shape is cylindrical or conical. The top

is

swollen

and

transparent.

Although the skin is either smooth or mastoidal, both types have velvety cilia. The body is elastic like rubber. Some species form a colony of about 10 heads, but Ophthalmophyllum does not form a large colony like Lithops or Conophytum. Flower is white, light vermilion, crimson or greenish rosy and about 2cm in diameter, and charming. It flowers in October to November and lasts long. Although propagation by seeds is typical, divided offsets and cutting grow the root easily. Most seedlings flower in 3 years. The growing season is autumn (September) to spring (May). Although adult needs complete cutoff of water for dormancy in summer, it is better not to cutoff water completely in the case of seedlings younger than 3 years old. Generally, cultivation is similar to that of Lithops. However, it is smaller than Lithops, sunlight during dormancy should be shaded to the level which is proper for Conophytum. According to the documents, it seems there are about 17 species. Although there is a record that 10 species

were

imported

in

Japan before the 2nd World War, it seems about half species exist including the species imported afterward. As there are a lot of species which look very alike, the confusion remains

of

classification still

Ophthalmophyllum

now. is

an

excellent species in pretty and beautiful flowers.

Dinteranthus The habitat is Great Namaqualand. No stem and highly thickened. A pair of leaves merged into one at the base. The top is hemispheric and keels are there. The color of the body is greenish light gray and a subtle tinge of brown and red can be seen. Some species have dark spots on the surface. The skin is smooth or wrinkled. When it reaches fully adult, it splits and make a colony. The flower is vivid yellow, big and beautiful. The efflorescence is autumn. Although there are only 6 species in this genus, every one of them is extremely dignified. The cultivation is similar to that of Lithops, however, it seems Dinteranthus likes a little more dryness and high temperature. Propagation is done by seeds which are minutest through all the Mesembs and close attention should be required. The best season to sow is mid summer (August).

Gibbaeum The

habitat

is

Karoo desert. It has

extremely short stem and grow densely around the stem. A pair of leaves merged into one at the base. Some have wide opening and some have almost no opening as the fissure on the top. The body shows odd appearance because the tow leaves are asymmetrical more or less. The color of the flower is white, rosy or crimson. Each flower has short calyx. Although the growing season varies, most of them grow from autumn to spring and rest in summer. Cultivation is similar to the other Mesembs. However it is a robust genus, no need to worry. Although propagation from seeds is easy, a divided offset grows the root easily. This genus displays its real beauty as a colony which consists of many heads. The particular forms and charming flowers are prestigious through all Mesembs.

Argyroderma The

habitat

is

Karoo

desert, Little Namaqualand. It has no stem and has highly thickened leaves. Generally, it is single head. However, when it reaches maturity, it makes a colony which consists of 2-10 heads. The body consists of a pair of leaves which merge into one at the base. There is a wide or narrow fissure at the top. The form is spherical, ovoid or oval. Some species have keels on the back. The color of the body has shade of light and dark green tinged with gray contrast. According to the season and species, light red or brown tinge are added to the color. The skin is extremely smooth and immaculate like porcelain. A big flower with a lot of petals and a short stem appears from the slit. The color of the flower is mostly yellow. However, there are elegant species which have the flower of pink, carmine or rosy. Species which have unknown colors and have not been imported to Japan is expected. Well-known species like Argyroderma roseum have dignified form and wonderful feeling of massiveness. It is a really unique species. Cultivation is similar to that of other Mesembs. As it is a robust genus, no special attention is needed. The growing season is autumn to spring and the dormant season is summer. Almost complete cutoff of water is safe during dormancy. Although sometimes cracks appear on the surface, it is natural phenomenon and no need to worry. About 50 species appear in foreign documents. However, there are a lot of very similar species in the genus and considerable confusion can be seen in the classification of the scientific names and Japanese common names. The color of the flower which comes from an individual is not necessarily the same. Far more strict classification and study of this genus are left in the future.

Pleiospilos The habitat is Karoo desert. It has no stem and highly thickened leaves. The body consists of 1-2 pairs of thick leaves. The color is grayish green or dark green. There are transparent spots on the surface.

The

top

is

flat

and

underside

is

considerably convex. There exists round type and elongated type. Round type grows into clusters of 2-3 heads and elongated type grows into clusters of about 10 heads. The color of the flower is gold or light orange. The size of flower is big. Each flower has a short stem and 1-3 flowers come from a body. Although most of species grow autumn to winter, there are species which do not rest in summer completely. The flowering seasons vary according to the species. This genus is robust and easy to cultivate. There are some 30 species in the genus.