• IRMA S. ROMBAUER
o.
MARION ROMBAUER BECKER
°
ETHAN BECKER
. C09king
AMERICA'S CLASSIC COOKBOOK ... NOW WITH M...
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• IRMA S. ROMBAUER
o.
MARION ROMBAUER BECKER
°
ETHAN BECKER
. C09king
AMERICA'S CLASSIC COOKBOOK ... NOW WITH MORE THAN 150 PHOTOGRAPHS
ALL ABOUT
PIES
&TARTS
•
ALL ABOUT
PIES
& TARTS IRMA S. ROMBAUER MARION ROMBAUER BECKER ETHAN BECKER PHOTOGRAPHY BY TUCKER & HOSSLER
SCRIBNER NEWYORK . LONDON. TORONTO. SYDNEY. SINGAPORE
SCRIBNER 1230 Avenue of the Americas NewYork,NY 10010 C opyright
© 2002 b y Simon & Schuster Inc.,
The Joy of Cooking Trust and The MRB Revocable Trust
Al rights reserved, including
the right of
reproduction in whole or in part in any form ScIl B)\.U and design are lrademarks of Macmillan Library Reference USA, inc ,
used under license by Simon & Schuster,
u
the p b lishe r of this work
Jor Of COOKING is a
registered trademark
of The Joy of Cookin g Trust and The MRB
Re vocable Trust
WELDON OWEN INC Chief Executive Officer; John Owen
President: Terry Ne..vell
Chief Operating Officer: Larrr Partington
Vice President, International Sales: Stuart Laurence
u sher : Roger Shaw
P bli
Creative Director: Gaye Allen
Associate Publisher
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Senior Edilor Sarah Lema:; ASsOOate Editor: Anna Mmtzaris Consulting Editor: Barbara Ottenhoff
An Director Ramsey Rickart Designer: Sarah Gifr d Photo Editor Lisa Lee
Production Manager Chris Hemcsath
Sh pping and Production Coordinator
Libby Temple
Production: Joan Olsun
Fo Stylist Dan Becker Assistant r'O Stylist Leslie Busch Step by St ep Photographer: Mike Fakoner Step by Step Fo Stylist: Andrea Ludch
s
Joy of Cooking A l Aooul er ies \"laS deSigned and produced by Weldon o.ven Inc
814 Montgomery Street. San Francisco, Californiil. 94133 SCt in Joanna MT and Gil l Sans Separations by Bright Arts Singapore
Printed in Singapore by Tien Wah Press (Pte ) Ltd
10987654321 Ubrary of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data Rombo""r lrnuvon5lutloTT,1877 1961, Jayoftooling An�boml ieS&t:>rL\/JrmlS R()mblucr
,Etl"Il&cker
p.o:m
{Joyofcuoking..uahoouscri.,.)
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1 Pi<s LTItkAJlahoutpie:s&tuts D lle<;ur M" onRo",bau.".,HLlIoeckcr.ELh.n l�T tle \'Seri",
TX773 R6S2001 «-LII'6S2-do:;ll
ReCipe shown on
Rec
half t tle page: Cherry Pi�. 4-3 HaJ( Cow:rro Berry french 71
shown on tille page: anclYta5lm
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CONTENTS 6
FOREWORD
8
ABOUT PIES & TARTS
13
ABOUT CRUSTS
33
ABOUT COVERED FRUIT PIES
57
ABOUT SINGLE-CRUST FRUIT PIES & TARTS
73
ABOUT CREAM PIES
85
ABOUT C USTARD PIES
97
ABOUT CITRUS PIES & TARTS
103
ABOUT CHOCOLATE PIES & TARTS
109
ABOUT SAVORY PIES & TARTS
126
INDEX
128
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
FOREWORD The world offers us a profusion
ofpies, from Cornish pasties to Mexican tomales,
French torts to German strudels. And we have the good luck that they all have mode their way to the United
States. Our love of pies is almost a tenet of our
patritotisrn My own love of pies led rne to boycott cheesecake long ago, which in my view, too much space on menus. At our table we continue to enjoy the some kinds of pies Granny Rom and Mom used to bake: peach custard, pecan, banana cream, and lemon merngue, my childhood favorite. Pies are too good not to eat more often-whet her savor y Greek spanikopita or American apple pie. As you glance through these pages, we are certain that temptation will win and you will be headed kitchenward. This collection of kitchen tested recipes joy of Cooking. Just as our family
is adopted from the latest edition of the
has done for generations, we have worked to
make this version of JOY a little bit better than the lost As a result, you'll find that some notes, recipes, and techniques have been changed to improve their clarity and usefulness. Since I 931, the joy of Cooking has constantly evolved. And now, the All About series has token JOY to a whole new stage, as you will see from the beautiful color photographs of finished treats and clearly illustrated instructions for preparing and
enjoying them Granny Rom and M om would have
been delighted. I'm sure you'll find All About Pies & Tarts
companion in your kitchen. Enjoy!
6 PIES & TARTS
to be both a useful and on enduring
••
..,. . ....
• 1.11, ".r•••
... ... .. .
• 4000,."."
I t.1�1.'J:.. Oyt' .'1)(1 ]t ,�.. 120011 11.0<1,•• N lllnlu!iou
• 'SOd,_".
by IRMA S.IWMBAUER and MARION ROMBAUlIR BECK
Ethan Becker pictured with his grandmother; Irma von StarkJoff Rombauer (left), and his mother; Marion
Rombauer Becker (right). Irma Rombauer published the first Joy of Cooking at her own expense in 193/. Marion Rombauer Becker became coauthor in 195/. JOY as it has progressed through the decades (from top left to bottom right): the 1931 edition with Marion's depiction of St. Martho of Bethany; soid to be the patron saint of cooking, "slaying the dragon of kitchen drudgery"; the 1943 e i o the 1951 ed Jon; the 1962 edition; the J 975 edition: and the 1997 edition.
d ti n;
it
FOREWORD 7
About Pies & Tarts Pies came to America with the
name tart for large pastries baked in
but you can also serve savory tarts
Pilgrims, and our love affair with
tart pans and tben unmolded before
in a number of ways: Cut bite-size
these desserts has continued ever
serving. While pie and tart methods
pieces to present as hors d' oeuvres,
since Southerners dote on pecan,
overlap and crusts and fillings are
or pair large wedges with a salad of
chess, and sweet pmaro pies, New
often interchangeable, American
mixed greens for an elegant lunch.
Englanders adore pumpkin pie, and
tarts display a distinctly French style.
the Pennsylvania Dutch never need
Just as a French sandwich puts as
While savory tarts have bonom crusts, savory pies are either com
an excuse to make shoof y pie. But
much emphasis on the bread as it
pletely encased in pastry
pie-making has kept pace with
does on the filling, a French tart bal
Latin American empanadas. Italian
changing times as well In the last
ances a small amount of filling widl
pizza [usdca, and English pasties
century, refrigeration made possible
a superb crust. The wide, shallow
or covered just on top by a golden
such as
cream and chiffon pies, and now
tart shell provides an elegant base
crust-sucb as American pot pies.
pies are f lled with chocolate (lots of
for arranging the fruit.
In both cases, the pastry protects
it), peanut butter, caramel, coffee,
Some of the very same f aky,
the meat or vegetable srufg by
ice cream, or any mousse imagina
unsweetened crusrs used to make
ble. Though still based on traditional
dessen tarrs do double duty as the
a crisp counterpart to the ,varm,
reCipes, contemporary fruit pies
bases for savory tarts. Choose a light.
favorful f lling.
comain more fruit and less sugar
custard f lling studded with bacon
We used (0 think of rarlS as small
for a satisfying quiche, or opt for
locking in moisture. It also provides
So just as you'll find classic, cov ered sweet pies in these pages, �o
pies; they were usually open, and
thinly sliced tomatoes, cheese, and
too will you encounter their savory
meant for individual servings Today
herbs for a summertime treat. Not
eqUivalents, which likewise hearken
we call these tanlets. reserving the
only can you play around with filgs,
back to America's beginnings.
8 PIES & TARTS
Eq u i pme nt for Pies and Tarts There are two kinds of rolling
Marble pins also work well. Hollow
use Some home bakers cover the
pins-the American pin with han
metal pins filled with ice water sweat;
edge of a pie with a shield to pre
dles, and the European pole. If you
glass pins are beautiful to behold
vent overbrowning, bur this has
have never rolled out crust before,
but fragile
limited effect; the same benefit can
choose an American pin of a size
A pastry blender, a tool consisting
and weight you find comfortable.
of f ve or six bowed metal blades for
European rolling pins are made
blending f our and fat in flaky pastry,
either thick and uniformly cylindri
is essential. Also useful are a ruler
be achieved with a ring cut from heavy aluminum foil.
American pie pans come in two standard diameters, 9 inches and
cal or slender and tapered at the ends.
to measure the thickness and width
10 inches; the former has a capaCity
Once you ge t the hang of rolling
of the dough, a futed pastry wheel
out dough, you will want a tapered
(pastry j agger) for cutting decorative
of around 41/2 cups, and the latter,
pin for the way it allows you to
lattices, and a metal dough scraper.
wonderfully brown, crisp crusts, and they also let you check on the
6 cu ps. Glass pie pans produce
maneuver the dough to any effect,
For weighting unfilled "blind-baked"
but many beginners find this one
crusts, metal pie weights are a good
progress of the crust during baking,
awkward to work with. Wood is the
alternative to raw beans or rice,
but heavy metal pans, whether
perfect material for all rolling pins.
which burn and grow musty with
matte, shiny, or black finish, are
1 0 PIES & TARTS
perfectly acceptable. Do not use
diameter and about 1 inch deep for
deep-dish glass pie pans for an ordi
4V, to 6 cups f lling. If you unmold
or f uted They are made in virrually
nary pie, because they lack the f ared
a tart for serving, the pan must be
every shape imaginable. Speaking
rim needed to form the edge of the
a (Wo-piece construction with a
broadly, buy wider shallow tarrIet
crusc Also avoid the flimsy nonstick
removable bottom. All two-piece
pans, as crusts tend to lose their
their sides may be either smooth
metal pans often sold in supermar
tan pans are meta Black-f nish tan
shape during baking when formed
kets; they are too shallow to hold a
pans may produce slightly browner
in deep, narrow pans. Muffin pans,
standard amount of pie f lling. We wish some enterprising man ufacturer would design tart pans that
crusts, but crusts are less likely 1O
ramekins, and baking cups can be
stick in shiny metal pans.
substituted for tartlet pans. You can
Tartler pans come in a great num
either line these molds with dough
correlate predsely in capacity with
ber of sizes, from ll/l-inch miniature
on (he inside in the usual way, or
standard America n pie pans. Until
pans used to make hors d'oeuvre
tlin them upside down and line
that day comes, use a tart pan meas
cases to 41/1-inch pans for individual
the outside. If you choose the lauer,
uring 91h or 10 inches across and I
tarrlers. They may be of one-piece or
use Flaky Croom Cheese Pasrry Dough, 18;
1O 1 1,4 inches deep for 4 to 41h cups
two-piece construction; they may
other doughs have a tendency to
f lling, and a tart pan 1 1 inches in
have straight or sloping sides, and
melt and split during baking.
ABOUT PIES & TARTS I I
ABOUT CRUSTS S
ome people are intimidated by the prospect of making a home made pie crust, so instead, they rush to the supermarket and
ra y
purchase e d ma de dough. While these products are certainly con venient in a pinch, they pale in comparison to a pie crust you m ode yourself
If you're looking for simplicity, try Pat in the Pan Butter Crust, 26, and Crumb Crust, 30.
The more experenced baker will be delighted with
recipes for Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry Dough, 17, and Meringue Pie Crust, 3 I. While
most dough is quick and easy
to
make by hand,
the food processor makes short work of some recipes, 16. The step-by-step illustrations in this chapter toke the guesswork out
of making tarts and pies. You will learn how to mix, roll, shope, and
a
bake crusts from the simplest to the most eleg nt.
Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry Dough (P6te Brisee),
17
I)
Flaky Pastry (Pate Bri see) Well-made flaky pastry is a para
dough. For tenderness, pie pastry
and feel at all stages nor confer the
dox
depends on fat, which, if properly
fabled "touch." Th;s comes (and it
firm and crisp on the one
hand but tender, light, and f aky on
mixed, prevems too much gluten
does come) only with practice. Still,
the other. It derives its strength from
from developing and separates the
f aky pastry is much less diffcult to
gluten, a tough, weblike structure
dough into paper-dun sheets, help
make than a novice baker often
that forms when flour is moistened
ing to create the f aky effect. No one
imagines. W hat follows is a step-by
with water and then handled during
recipe can precisely convey a sense
step overview of the entire process.
the mixing and rolling of (he
of the way the dough should look
Making Flaky Pastry Dough There are (wo steps i n the making of
the pastry intO myriad faky ledges.
f aky pastry dough. In the first step,
Inexperienced pie makers tend to
reqUired varies depending on the
the goal is to cut the fat into the dry
oveT\'vork the four and fat mixture
moisture content of the flour, the
ingredients either by chopping vig
into a soft, greasy paste, resulting in
rype of fat used, the degree of
orously with a pastry blender
pastry that is mealy and dense, like
blending of fat and flour, and (he
(below) or by culting in opposite
shortbread, radler than crisp and faky.
ambient temperature and humidity.
directions vvith 2 knives, one held in
The age-old advice remains the best:
As a general rule, the four and fat mixture should be moistened only
and breadHke. The amount of water
each hand. This leaves the fat in
Have tile butter or lard cold (solid
firm, separate pieces, some fine and
vegetable shortening, which resists
to the point where it forms small
crumblike and the rest the size of
melting, may be at room temperature)
balls that hold tOgether when
peas. The finer particles of fat cQat the
and work quickly and purposefully.
grains of flour, partially blocking the
In the second step, the binding of
pressed together with your fingers. If the mixture gathers into a mass
penetration of water and hindering
the dough with water, the trick is to
on its own, without pressure, it is
the formation of gluten. The larger
add enough water [Q make the dough
too wet. Beginners should probably
chunks of fat melt during baking,
cohere but not so much as to cause
err on the side of overmoistening,
leaving gaps in the dough that fill up
gluten to form, which will produce
as
with steam and expand, and separating
pastry that is either hard or chewy
crumble when rolled.
1 4 PIES & TARTS
a
very dry dough will split or
Flaky Pastry Dough Two or
9-inch pie
IO-inch
tort
covered pie
crusts, o r two 912-
crusts, or one 9-inch
crust
This
dough makes a ligh, fiaky crust touch of a fork Before beginning please read Flaky Pastry, opposite, and Making Flaky Pastry Dough, oppos�e. If you want to make the dough in a food processor, see page 16. If you need only a single pie or tart crus, decrease all ingredients by half or {i"eeze half the dough for fUture use. that crumbles delicately at the
Using a rubber sp atula , thoroughl y mix in a large bowL
2 VI cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon white sugar or 1 tablespoon powdered sugar 1 teaspoon salt Add:
1
cup solid vegetable shortening, or
� cup
shortening and 8 table
spoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter
Break th e shorte ning iDlO large chunks; if using butter, cm it into small pieces, then add it to the flour . mixture. Using a pastry blender or 2 knives , cut the fat into the dry ingredients. As you work, periodi ca lly stir dry f our up from the bottom of the bowl and scrape
small balls. Press down on the dough
and pr eferably for several hours, or
clul ging fat off the pastry bl en der
with the flat side of the spatula. If
[or up to 2 days before rolling The
or knives. Whe n you are through.
some of the fat should remain in
pea - sized pieces; the rest should be
the balls of dough Slick togethe r,
and frozen for up to 6 months; thaw
they do not, drizzle over the top:
completely before rolling.
red uced to the consistency of coarse
1 to 2 tablespoons ice water
crumbs or cornmeal. The mixture
Cut in the water, again using th e
should seem dry and powder y and
dough can also be wrapped airt ight
you have added enough water; if
blade of the spa tula, then press with
LARD FLAKY PASTRY DOUGH
not pasty o r greasy. Drizzle over the
your hands tmtil the dou gh coheres
f our and fat mixture:
The dough should look rough, nOl
This very tender crust is best reserved for covered (ruit pies. Prepare Flaky Pastry Dough. above. substituting I cup of cold or frozen lard. cut into pieces. for the fat
!i) cup plus 1 tablespoon ice water
smooth. Divide [he dough in half,
the blade side unt l the mixture looks
disk, and wrap tightly in plastic
Using the rubber spa rula . cut with
evenly moistened and begins to form
press each half into a thic k, flat
Refrigera te for at least 30 mi nu tes ,
ABOUT CRUSTS I S
Fats Used i n Flaky Pastry Dough Solid vegetable sh ortening i s easy to
Dough,
work with, because it resists melting
butter. Leaf lard. rendered from the
17,
which is almost emirely
To measure bulk fats. like s hor ten ing, butter, or lea f lard, use th e dis
and disperses easily in dry ingredi
fat of the pig that surrounds the
placement method. If you put these
ents. It also has a tenderizing effect
kidneys, produc es a wonderfully
fats in dry measuring cups, p ockets
on f our and thus ass ures a tender
flaky crust and is traditional f or
of air can form and throw off the
f avor; use it in combination with
to f nd. Supermarket lard, whic h
i s process ed from vari ous parts of
III cup shortening, fill a i-cup liquid
unsalted butter if you want more f avor in the crust. For a very buttery
the animal, has a mor e pronounced
add the fat until the water reaches
crust, make Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry
flavor than leaf lard.
the 1-cup mark. Pour off the water.
crust. Shortening, h owever. has litde
HOWTO MAKE FLAKY PASTRY DOUGH USING A FOOD PROCESSOR These instructions pertain to Flaky Pastry Dough, i 5,
as
Deluxe Butter F/o,lc.y
and their variations, well os to Flaky Cream Cheese
Pastry Dough,
I 7.
Pastry Dough, 18 Have 01/ fats and cream cheese cold, preferably frozen. I Combine the dry ingredients in the food processor and process for
I 0 seconds. Cut the fat (and cream cheese) into Yl-inch chunks and, with the machine off. scatter over the top.
2 Pulse in
1
to 2-second bursts until
most of the fat is the size of peas.
3 With the machine turned off, drizzle the liquid evenl y over the top. Pulse until no dry patches remain and the dough begins to clump into small balls.
4 Try to p ress the do ugh togeth er with your fingers: if it will not cohere. sprinkle on a bit more liquid. pulse. and try again. Do not allow the dough to gather into a single mass during processing.Wrap and refrigerate
as
1 6 PIES & TARTS
directed.
covered frui t pies but is difficult
measurement. Instead, if you want
measure half full with water, then
Del uxe Butter Flaky Pastry Dough (Pate Brisee) Two 9-inch p i e crusts, o r two 91'2- or IO-inch tort crusts, o r one 9-inch covered pie crust This dough is richer In (ot thon ordinary
begin to clump; it must remain dry
flaky postry and is thus sofier and
and p owdery. Drizzle over the four
more difficult to handle, but it Yields Q
and f;ou mixtme:
DOUGH
marvelously tender. flaky crust with a
Yl cup plus
Cornmeal odds
superb butter flavor While it is possible
Cut with the blade side of the rub
to make this dough with butter only,
ber spatula until the mixture looks
o small amount of shortening makes
evenly moistened and begins to
1
tablespoon ice water
balls . Press dOV"ll
on the
CORNMEAL FLAKY PASTRY
crunch and lightness
to crusts. Use for fresh fuit torts made
with berries, peaches, or nectarines. Prepare Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry Dough, left, subst itut ing y:; cup yel
it flaJ<jer without interfering with the
form small
buttery taste. Since thIS dough tends
dough with the f at side of the spat
low cornmeal for X cup of the
to pUff out o( shope dunng b aking. you
ula. If the
a l l- pu r pose flour and i n creasin g
balls of dough stick
should not use it to make 0 crust with
tog ether, you have added enough
a tightly fluted or braided edge. Be(ore
water; if they do not, drizzle over
beginning please reod Flak y Past r y, 14,
the LOp:
and
1 to 2 tablespoons ice water
Making
Flaky Pastry
Dough, 14
I(you want to make this In a food processor, see opposite. Ifyou need
Cut in the water, then press with
only Q single pie or tort crust, decrease
The dough should look rough, not
all Ingredients by hal( or (reeze half
smooth.
the dough (or future use.
press each half into a thick, f at
Us ing a rubb er spatula, thoroughly mix in a larg e bowL
hands until the dough coheres.
Divide the dough in half,
disk, and wrap tightly in plastic .
Refrigerate for at leas t 30 minutes, prefer ably for several hours, or for
2 % cups all-pillpose flour 1 teaspoon white sugar or
your
1
table-
spoon powdered sugar
up to 2 days
b efore
rolling. The
dough can also be VI'Yapped air tight
and frozen for up to 6 months ; thaw
1 teaspoon salt
Working quickly to prevent soften
completely before rolling
ing, cut into Y4-inch pieces: y, pound (2 sticks) cold unsalted butter
NUT FLAKY PASTRY DOUGH Pre pa re Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry
Dough, lert. adding Y; cup finely chop pe d or coarsely ground wal
nuts or pecans to the dr y ingredi
ents and increasing the powdered sugar to n cup. You ca n also a dd
I teaspoon grated lemon zest with the nut s. SWEET FLAKY PASTRY DOUGH
This pa str y is delicious but burns easily. Use
it only (or
pies and torts boking after
that require litVe or no
being filled. Prepare Deluxe Butter Flaky Pasery Dough, left, increasing the pow dered sugar to :x cup.
Add the butter to the dry ingredients. Using a pastry blender or 2 knives,
chop the butter into pea-sized pieces. Add: 14 cup solid vegetable shortening With a few quick swipes of the pas try blender, cut the shortening into larg e chunks and distribute through out the bowl. Continue to
the powdered sugar to n cup.
chop
BUTTER Use all store bought butter within
1 week of the date stamped on the carton Because butter readily absorbs odors, store it well wrapped in the refrigerator and a\-vay from other foods. Unopened lU1salted butter lasts about 8 weeks, salted up to 12 Use al opened butter within
until the mixture resembles coarse
3 weeks You also can freeze buner
crumbs ..vi th some p ea- sized pieces.
[or up
lO
6 months.
WHOLE-WHEAT FLAKY PASTRY DOUGH
Prepare Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry Dough. left, subst itut in g I cup who le- whe at pastry flour for
[
cup of the all-purpose flour and
inc reasing the powdered sugar to
n cu p. For extra tenderness, beat in I large egg yolk with the f rst addition of ice water.
Do not let the mixture soften and
ABOUT CRUSTS I 7
Flaky Cream Cheese Pastry Dough One 9 - o r
IO-inch pie
IO-inch tart
crust
o r 9!0- or
crust
Cream cheese pastry is rich and tangy, and it seems to turn out tender and flaky no matter whot To make thiS in a (ood processo" see page 16 ThIS rec pe can be doubled and used to make 0 covered or lattice-top pi e. Use this dough when moking tortlet crusts,
since it will hold
baking
its shape better dUring raky pastry doughs.
thon other
Whisk together in a large bowl:
1
cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon white sugar or 2 tablespoons powdered sugar V. teaspoon sa)t Cut inra Y.-inch pieces and add:
the dry ingredjents until the mixture
6 tablespoons ('4 stick) cold
resembles coarse crumbs with some
unsalted bu tter
dough begins to gather imo moist clumps. Press the dough inco a
pea-sized pi eces . Drizzle over the top:
thick, Bat dis k , wrap tightly in plastic, and refrigerate for at least
3 ounces cold cre;un cheese
2 to 3 tablespoons cold heavy cream
Using a pastry blender or 2 knives,
ell[ with the blade side of a rubber
cut the butter and cream cheese into
spatula or stir with a fork until the
1 ho ur or up to 2 days.
SWEETENING AND FLAVORING FLAKY PASTRY DOUGHS
Our basic recipes for Flaky Pastry Dough, 15, and Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry Dough, I 7, call for just a hint d sugar. Howeve� both doughs can be sweetened more if you prefer. Except when used in tiny amounts, ordinary granulated sugar makes flaky pastry
doughs sticky and hard to h andl e , 50 use powdered sugar instead, One
Crusts
out crun chy rather than
the
recipe
or if
you
are making Flaky Cream Cheese
Pastry
flaky
Dough.
above.
o
o
Nuts: YJ to Y1 cup c ars el y gr und
You may fiavor
any fiaky pastry dough
lowing into the flour and other dry ingredients. W th all these additions, you should sweeten the dough with least y.; cup powdered sugar. These
to 211 cups of flour will impart a light background sweetness: :x cup will make the crust noticeably sweet
amounts are
or finely chopped Sesame or poppy seeds: 2 table
by whisking one or more of the fol
quarter to Yl cup powdered sugar
1 8 PIES & TARTS
you are h alvin g
made with more than :x cup
powdered sugar may burn and turn
spoons Anise, caraway, or coriander
at
for a full rec ipe of Flaky Pastry Dough or Deluxe Butter Fl aky Pastry Dough; use on ly half as much if
seeds: I tablespoon finely crushed Orange or lemon zest: I to 2 tea
spoons grated Cinnamon, ginger, cardamom, or nutmeg:!4 teaspoon ground
HOWTO ROLL OUT PASTRY D OUGH
The secret to rol ing dough is to leon into the pin rather than down on it: The gool is to enlarge the dough, not to press and crush it. You can roll dough on a wood or plastic pastry board or on 0 marble slab (which retains cold and thus helps keep the dough from softening) or directly on a clean smooth countertop Do not roll dough next to the oven or in Q hot corner of the kitchen. or the fot will melt. If the dough has been chilled for longer thon 30 minutes, let it stand until It feels firm yet pliab/e. If too cold, the dough will crock around the edges when rolled. If the dough becomes too soft during roiling slide a rimless cookie sheet beneath it and re fri gerate unOI it frrms up. I Flour the work surface-lightly if you are an experienced pastry maker
but a bit more genemusly if you are start ng out. Excessive flouring toughens dough, but sticking is a disaster. Place the dough in the center of the floured surface and flour the dough as well. 2 Exerting even pressure on the pin,
roll the dough from the center out in a[1 directions, stopping just short of the edge [n order to keep the dough in a circular shape, each stroke should be made in the opposite direction from the one that preceded it. You can do this by rotating the dough itself rather than by moving the pin If the dough assumes an irregular shape, cut off the protruding piece, moisten the edge with cold water and press it over the short spot Check the dough for stick ing periodically; strew a l ttle flour on the work surface as necessary
3 Seal cracks and splits by pressing the
dough together.lrthe split reopens, your dough is probably too dry. Dab the edges of the split with cold water, overlap the edges slightly, and press firmly with your fingertips, sprinkling a little flour over the repaired area if it feels moist and sticky. 4 Roll the dough 3 to 4 inches wider
than your pan. This will allow plenty of dough for constructing a rim Place the pan (right side up for a tart pan, inverted for a pie pan) in the center of the dough to calculate the width by eye. (For beginners and those who find sticking a prob lem, see step 3 of How to Pat Dough into the Pon, 27, for instructions on rolling dough between 2 pieces of waxed paper
ABOUT CRUSTS 1 9
HOWTO FIT THE DOUGH INTO THE PAN I Transfer the dough to the pan by rolling it loosely around the pin. Center the pin over the pan, and then unroll the dough.
2 Alternatively, you can fold the dough in halves or quarters, place it in the pan, and unfold it to cover It is important to press the dough over the botom and into the cor ,ners before you mold it against the pan sides. Otherwise, you will end up with stretched corners that may tear when the shell is weighted for prebaking or is filled.
J Patch any holes or cracks with dough scraps, first lightly moistening the scraps with cold water: 4 When you are satisfied that the
pan is completely covered, trim the edges of the dough with scissors, leaving an overhang of ¥4 inch all around the sides of the pan. Wrap and refrigerate all scraps.These will come in handy if the shell shrinks or splits when baked.
Resti ng, Stori ng, and Freezing Unbaked Crusts In order to relax the dough and
in vIleighring the shell, 22. A crust
minimize shrinkage, pie and tart
may also be frozen for up to 6
crusts must be chilled for at least
months. Either freeze it in the pan,
30 minutes before baking. A rest of
wrapped airtight in foil and then
3 to 24 hours is preferable if you
sealed in a plastic bag, or freeze it
have designed an elaborate crust
solid, then pry it out of the pan and
rim. To keep the pastry from drying
wrap. Frozen crusts need not be
out, wrap crusts that are refrigerated
thavved before baking. T hey will
for more than 3 hours in plastic or
require a few minutes longer in
cover with the foil liner to be used
the oven.
20 PIES & TARTS
HOWTO M AKE A PIE OR TART CRUST
The following directions apply to any roky pastry dough I
To Make
Pie Crust: Tuck the over inch of pastry dough underneath itself to make a doubled r m, then rest the rim on the flared edge of th e pie pan. 0
hanging ?4
2 To crimp the rim, press it all around with the tines the blunt side of
a
of a
fork or
k ni fe.
3 For a fluted rim, press your thumb and i ndex finger; held abo u t I inch apart, against the outside of the rim, then poke a dent through the space from the i n side of the pie crust with the index fi nger of your other hand. Continue evenly all around the rim of the
pan.
4 For a coiled or braided design on the rim, roll dough tr mmings into long thin ropes, then twist or braid the ropes to your choosing. Flatten the rim
of the pi e crust th e pan, brush
against the edge of
the
r m with cold water, and press
the
fancy rope into
place.
5 To Make G Tort Crust: Lightly brush the sides of the tart crust w th cold water: Fold the dough overhanging the pan down over the sides and press firml y, doubling the thickness of the upper part of the crust wall 6 Squeeze any noticeably thicker parts of the sides towards the
top of the pan with your ingers, the n trim the pro trudi ng spots flush with the rest of the top using k itchen scissors.
ABOUT CRUSTS 2 1
Prebaki ng and Weighting Crusts In previous editions of JOY, we called
to pay for a deliciously criSp and
for only I"'rtial prebaking of flaky
flaky crust.
pastry crusts thal would be retLUned
When pastry crusts are baked
they tend
to the oven and baked again with
unfilled
the flling, as in p umpkin or pecan
ro puff up and slip down the sides
"blind baked"
pie . OUT theory was that the second
of the pan
baking v.muld finish what the first
beans or rice or metal pie wei ghts
un less
weighted with raw
had begun, but time and time again,
(top photo) during the firs t 2 0 min
our theory was refuted by a soggy,
utes of baking Instead of using
undercooked crust. We now believe
weights, you may keep the dough in
that all prebaked pastry crUSts must
place by nesting a pie pan of identi
be fully baked before filli ng. Defying
cal size in the crust. If you choose
logic, the baked shells do not burn
this memod, you must be content
when baked a second time v.ith
wim a simple crimped rim, for the
d,eir flling , though the edge does sometimes darken
a smal price
second pan
will flatten
a fluted or
braided rim
Baked Flaky Pastry Crust One 9-inch pie crust or 9 Y2- or I O-inch tort crust The pastry doughs listed here are 011-
beans or rice or metal pie weights,
purpose doughs and may be used inter
banking the weights against the
changeably in any rec pe coiling (or a
sides of the crust if you do not have
baked flaky pastry crust. Be(ore begin
enough to fll the crust to the brim
ning, please read How to Roll Out
Bake the crust for 2 0 minutes.
Pastry Dough, 1 9, and Prebaking and
Carefully lift out the foil with the
Weighting Crusts, above.
weights inside. Prick the crust thor
Prepare:
oughly with a fork, return
I', recipe Flaky Pastry Dough. 15.
oven, and bake until the crust i s
I', recipe Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry Dough. 17 . or I recipe Flaky Cream Cheese Pastry Dough. 18 Roll o u t the dough and fit it into a
it to the
golden brov"n all over, S t o 1 0 min
utes more. Check
the crust periodi
cally; if it puffs along the bottom, prick it with a fork, then press down
9 -inch pie pan or 91h_ or 1 0-inch
gendy widl the back of a spoon. If
two-piece tan pan Refrigerate the
you are filling
crust for at least 3 a minutes.
uncooked mixture that requires fur
the crust
with an
Position a rack in the lower third of
ther bakin g, whisk tog ether, then
the oven . Preheat the oven to 400°F
brush the inside with:
Smooth a sheet of heavy-duty alu
I large egg yolk
minum foil, shiny side down, over
Pinch of salt
the bottom and sides of the crust,
Return to the oven until [he egg
faring the excess foil, hke an awning,
glaze sees, 1 [Q 2 minutes. Fill the
over the crust edge
she]] a( once, while still hot, or let
to keep it from
overbrovming. Fill the liner with raw
cool as specifed in the recipe.
Baked Flaky Pastry Tartlet Crusts About nine 3Y2-inch or six 4Y2-inch crusts Tanlet pans come in an array of sizes, shapes, and designs. The (allowing instructions assume that you will be using 3Y2- to 4Y2-inch pans with shollow, straight sides, wh ich produce crusts o( a size suitable for individual (rrst course or dessert tartlets. I(you are using smallee slope-sided pons to make dessert-troy tartlet.s or ho rs d'oeuvre cases, roll the do ugh thinner ('I" inch, i(you con man age It) and do not double the crust sides. Obviously, the baking times and yield will also vary. While it is possible to make tart/et crusts with Flaky Pastry Dough, 1 5, or even Del uxe Buter Flaky Pastry Dough, 1 7, these doughs tend to both
puff and shrink down the sides o( the pons durng baking diminishing the holding capacity o( the crusts. These problems con be solved by prebaking the crusts with weights, as one does (or large shells. We prefer cream cheese pastry dough (or tartlet shells, since it holds its shape better dUring baking.
fold the overhanging dough itself over the crust sides, their
thickness
back on doubling
Press the doubled
dough frmly to seal, then thor oughly prick the sides
and bottoms Arrange the crusts on a b aki n g sheet and refrigerate for
with
a
fork
at least 3 0 minutes
Prepare :
Position
Flaky Cream Cheese Pastry Dough, 18
oven. Preheat the oven to 40Q°F.
On a lightly f oured work surface,
to 7 minutes, that have puffed. Continue to bake until the crusts are golden brown and firm to the touch, 1 2 ro I S min utes more. Cool completely and unmold
dough abom 1/8 inch thick, then cut into rounds wide enough to cover the bo([om and sides of your tartlet pans, with 1 to 1 112 inches extra dough to spare. Press the dough rounds into the pans, then
roll the
a rack in the center of the
Bake the crusts for 5
then prick the borroms of any
before flling
ABOUT CRUSTS 13
Moisture proofi ng the Crust Crusts that are to hold uncooked
2 teaspoons of unsalted butter to
fllings and then be baked should
the consistency of mayonnaise,
be glazed ",vith egg yolk to prevent
then brush or spread it very thinly
sogginess: Whisk together 1 large
over the bottom and sides of the
egg yolk and a pinch of salt Use a
baked shell.
pastry brush to lightly coat the bot
Chocolate: Melt semisweet, bit
tom and sides of the crust with the
tersweet' milk, or white chocolate,
glaze. Baked crusts that will be f lled
and spread it thinly over the inside
with cooked mixtures can be glazed
of the crust with a knife or the back
·with yolk or, if the f lling will be
of a spoon Refrigerate the crust
poured in cold, glazed with one
until the chocolate hardens. Moisture
of the following :
Fruit glaze: Melt j elly, j a m , or preserves in a small saucepan over Imv heat, then strain out any solids. Brush the warm glaze over the bot
proof shells with chocolate only when its f avor is compatible with the pie or tart f lling.
Chocolate Ganache Glaze, below: This is as effective as choco
tom and the sides of the shell. If you
late in mOisture-proof ng a shell
are making a fresh fruit tart, you can
and, because it is soft, may be
brush the fruits on top of the tart
applied in a much thicker layer.
with the same glaze that you applied
Banana cream pie, peanut butter
to the shell.
pje, and fresh raspberry tarts are
Butter: Unsalted butter makes an effective and virtually unnotice
particularly good with ganache glazed shells.
able protective coat. Soften about
Chocolate Ganache G l aze About I 12 cups Ganache is a French term that refers to any combination o( chocolate and cream. It is smooth on the palate and rich in flavor. Bring to a boil in a sma l sauce pan:
the mixture cools to 85° to 95°F. For
:x cup heavy cream
fr osting, l et stand until spreadable . f
R emov e from the heat and add:
8 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
I tablespoon l iqueur, or more to taste (optional)
For a pourable glaz e, let stand at room temperature, stirring occasionally, until
the f rosting bec om es too stif,f set the pan in a larger pan of hot water and stir until softened: or remelt and c o ol
Stir until most of the chocolate is
to 85° to 95°F for use as a glaze. This
melted. Cover and let stand for I 0
keeps for up to
minutes. Stir or whisk very gently unt l
ature, I week refrigerated. or 3 m onths
completely smooth. Stir in:
frozen. S oft en or melt before using.
3 days at room temper
HOW TO PATCH A BLIND-BAKED CRUST Pastry crusts sometimes develop a split
or pumpkin pie-ll cracks need to be
with your fingers or the back of a
along the bottom (usually during the
potched, or the {llIing wi l leak through.
small spoon over the tear The crust
down the sides of the pon (usually
I
only long enough to harden and dry
weighted phose
of baking)
or shrink
needs to be returned to the oven Using you r fingertips, press the
after the weights have been removed).
reserved dough scraps into the required
the patch, not to brown it and bake
I(the crust is to hold a thick (ully
shape. lightly moisten one side with
it through.
cooked mixture-s in cream, chifon,
water. and press the moistened side over
or lemon meringue pie-smo/l imper
the problem area of the baked crust.
fections can be ignored. But if you ore f/ling the crust with an uncooked liquid
2 If you have no scraps, make a thick
mixture-as in custard, pecan, chess,
paste with flour and water and smear it
3 f glazing the crust with egg yo k before filling, be sure that the edges of the patch are completely sealed wrth yolk
ABOUT CRUSTS 2 5
Pat in-the Pan Crusts The success of faky pastry depends
not absorb the liquid needed to
upon the expert management of
produce glmen. Al pac-in-[he pan
crostatas). Note also that these crusts
gluten Pat-in-the-pan doughs are
crusts are crumbly, rather than faky
must be glazed with egg yolk or
made in such a way that virtually no
Pat-in -the-pan crusts are usually
known as galettes (or. in Italian.
another glaze (see MOisture-proofing the
gluten develops. The fat is softened
baked before t:hey are f lled. There
Crust,
and [horoughly blended inco t:he
fore they cannot be used to make
and further baked, as in pecan or
24)
when [hey are [0 be filled
flour, not cut in as for faky pastry
covered fruit pies, though short
pumpkin pies; otherwise, the crusts
dough. As a result, the four ends up
bread doughs can be used to make
will soak up the f lling and adhere
mOisture-proofed by the fat and can
the f at, free-form dessert tarts
Lo Lhe pan
Pat in-the-Pan Butter Crust One 9�nch pie or 9Yz- or / o-inch tart crust Those who are daunted by �aky pastry will find this simple altemative more than satisfactory. This dough will also make about eight 3 Yz-inch tartlet crusts. Press the dough over the bottom and up the sides of the tortlet molds and bake until firm and golden, about 1 5 minutes. pricking
the dough severol times during baking with a fork.
Add: 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted
Position a rack in the center of the
butter, softened, cut into 8
oven. Preheat the oven to 40Q°F.
pieces
Whisk together in a bowl or process for 10 seconds in
a
food processor:
11ft cups all-purpose four Yl teaspoon salt
Mash with the back of a fork or process in a food processor until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Drizzle over the top:
2
to 3 tablespoons heavy cream
Stir or process until the crumbs look damp and hold together when
pinched. Transfer the mixture to a 9 inch pie pan or 91/t- or 1 0-inch two-piece tart pan (opposite) . Pat
evenly over the bOllom and sides with your fingertips If making a
pie, form a crust edge and crimp or flute. Prick the bottom and sides with a fork. Bake until the crust is
golden brown, 1 8 to 22 minutes, pricking the bottom once or twice if it bubbles. If you are f lling [he crust with an uncooked mixture that
requires further baking, whisk together: 1 large egg yolk Pinch of salt Brush the inside of the crust with the egg yolk glaze. Return [Q t:he
oven and bake until the egg glaze sets, 1 to 2 minutes.
26 PIES & TARTS
HOW TO PAT DOUGH INTO THE PAN Although patting out
Q
crust is
Q
si mple
procedure, it must be done carefully if
the crust is
to be of an even thickness,
To form the sides of the crust, aga n
3 To ro l out th e dough , lightly flour
press the dough from the center of
both sides of th e dough and
the pan in a l directions until an even
betwee n two
builds up against the the dough
12 -in c h
set it
squares of wax
Statt by patting the dough into on even
ring of dough
4-inch dIsk. If it is soft and sticky, re(ng
pan sides. Evenly flatten
erate it unul It becomes manageable;
ring aga nst the pan sides to form the
If the paper wrinkles as you roll. peel
If It IS
crust sides.
it off and smooth it back nto
cold and hard, let it stand at
paper. Working from the center out, roll the dough into a 1 2-inch circle.
place.
room temperature until malleable, like modeling cloy.
If you are comfortable
and proficient with the pin, you may f nd
In form i ng a pi e crust, you can push
sides slightly beyond th e pan and crimp or fl ute the
the top of the
it easier to produce a crust of an even
r m of the
thickness by rolling the dough rather
crust edge.
than pating it Since these doughs lend
Remove the top sheet of wax paper. Ho ldi ng the bottom sheet by the
comers. pi ck up the dough
and
fli p
it paper side up, into the pan. then carefu lly
peel off the paper.
to be sticky, soft, and crumbly, they must
2 For a tart crust, press down on the
be rolled between sheets or wax paper.
top of the sides with th e thumb of one
4 The do ugh may not end up cen
p ressi ng agai nst the inside edge with the forefi nge r of your other hand. You wi ll thus make the top of the sides flat and of th e same thickness as the b ase. which not only strengthens the sides but also gives the crust an
tered in the pan. and
attractive look.
the crust as directed above.
hand while
I Set the dough n the center of your pi e or tart pan. Always working
from the center out press down on the dough in all directions until it covers the entire bottom of the pan in an
even
layer:
it
may tear and
crumble. but none of this matters.
Simply press the dough into the pan's contours and then repair any
holes by pushing the dough together with your fingers. Finish the edge of
ABOUT CRUSTS 17
Shortbread Crust One 9-inch pie or 912- or f O-inch tort crust This rich, sweet dough resembles a
the pan with four, tilt to coat the
until the dough comes together in a
shortbread cookie. Use it for 0 cream
bottom, then tap out the excess. (If
ball. If the dough is too soft and
pie, a lemon tart, a fresh fruit tort with
using a tart pan, pop out the bot
sticky to work with, refrigerate for
pastry cream, or any other pie or tort
tom, wedge it between your palms,
at least 3 0 minutes or up to
With a creamy or buttery (Illing, or to
and tap.)
Pat (he dough evenly over the bot
make approximately eight
3 n-inch
tartlet crusts. For tortiets, press the dough into your molds and bake until firm and golden, about
1 5 minutes,
prrckmg with a (ark severol times during baking. I( you make this in 0 (ood
2
days.
Whisk together in a bowl or process
tom and sides of the prepared pan,
for 1 a seconds in a food processor:
or roll it betvveen sheets of wax
1 14 cups all-purpose four
paper and ft.ip it into the pan (see
� cup sugar
How to Pat Dough into the Pan, 27). Do
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
(optional)
not attempt to crimp or ft.ute the edge. Thoroughly prick the bottom
processor using cold butter; it will be
14 teaspoon salt
firm enough to form into 0 crust ot
Add:
once; i( mode by hond with softened
8 tablespoons
and sides with a fork. Bake until deep golden brown, 1 8 to
(1
stick) Wlsalted
22
min
utes. If you are f lling the crust with
butter the dough will require brie(chill
butter, softened if working by
an uncooked mixture that requires
Ing be(ore (arming.
hand, cut into 8 pieces
further baking, whisk together, then
Position a rack in the center of the
Mash ·with the back of a fork or
oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
process until the mixture resembles
1 large egg yolk
Grease or butter the bottom, but not
coarse crumbs. Add:
Pinch of salt
brush the inside with:
the sides, of a 9-inch pie pan or 9 V2-
1 large egg yolk
Return to the oven until the egg
or l O -inch two-piece tart pan. Dust
Mix with a spatula or process just
glaze sets,
28 PIES & TARTS
1
to 2 minutes.
Vegetable O i l Crust One 9-inch pie or 9Y2- or I O-inch tart crust This firm, sandy-textured crust is easier
Mix in a cup until creamy :
to roll than to pat. The flavor of the oil
I!J cup plus 1 tablespoon vegetable
tends to become pronounced with pro
oil
making a pie, crimp or f ute the edge. Thoroughly prick the sides and bottom with a fork. Bake until the
longed baking, so save this crust for
y. cup cold milk
pies that don't need to be baked after
Pour the oil mixture over the dry
minutes. If you are filling the crust
filling, such as cream pies, Key lime pie,
ingredients and stir with a fork until
with
blended. Pat the dough evenly over
requires further baking, whisk
Position a rack in the lower third of
the bottom and sides of a 9-inch pie
together, then brush he inside with:
the oven. Preheat the oven to 425°F.
pan or 9Y2- or l O-inch two-piece
1 large egg yolk
Whisk together thoro ughly :
tart pan. or roll it be tween sheets of
Pinch of salt
1 Ifl cups all-purpose four
wax paper and f ip il into the pan
Remrn to the oven Wltil the egg
Yz teaspoon salt
(see How to Pat Dough into the Pon, 27). If
glaze sets, I to 2 minutes.
or lemon meringue pie.
crust is golden brown , 12 to 1 8 an
uncooked mixture that
G l uten Free Crust Two 9-inch pie crusts Many people love this wheat-free crust
3 tablespoons very cold tap water
one disk of dough on t11e parchment
because it is easy to make, freezes well,
You may shape and bake the pie
and roll from the center out to a
and tastes like French tart dough. You
crusts immediately or freeze the
l O-inch round. Invert a 9-inch pie
may sprinkle the scraps with cinnamon
dough
pan over the dough and invert the
and sugar and bake them into cookies,
To bake i m media tely, lightly grease
parchment with the dough into the
if you wish. Xanthan gum can be found
two 9-inch pans. With wet hands,
pan. Par the dough evenly in the pan,
in health-food stores and online. Remem
place half the dough in each pan.
removing the paper. Shape a rim and
ber to have the cream cheese and eggs
Evenly pat the dough across the bot
prick al over with a fork Bake as
at room temperature before you start
tom and up the sides, and form a
directed above.
Pulse 4 or 5 times in a food proces
rim at the top. Decorate the rim by
sor to combine:
pressing it with the tines of a fork.
1 cup white rice four
Prick the shell all over \ivith a fork.
0/. cup potato starch
Freeze while preheating the oven to
1f2 cup tapioca four
425°F. Bake until the edges are gold
1 tablespoon sugar
en
1 teaspoon salt
To freeze and bake at a later date,
y. teaspoon xanthan gmn
divide the dough in half and place
brown, about 1 5 minutes.
Add and process until well blended:
each half on a large sheet of plastic
4- ounces cream cheese, softened,
\-wap. Pat each into a 1/2-inch-thick
cut into cubes
disk. Cover tightly with the plastiC
� cup vegetable shortening
wrap, place in freezer bags, and
Add and process until a smooth
freeze for up to 3 montl1s. When
dough forms:
you are ready to use it, thaw [he
1 large egg. at room temperature
dough for about I Y1. hours at room
2 large egg yolks, at room
temperature. Sprinkle potato starch
temperature 1 teaspoon gluten-free vanilla
lightly over a large sheet of parch ment paper and a rolling pin. Place
ABOUT CRUSTS 29
Cru m b and N ut Crusts The sweet crunchiness of these easy
crumbs must be quite fine, or the
the sides of the pan during baking
to-make cr usts provides a delicious
crust is likely to crumble when cut.
and turn out hard and candylike
contrast to creamy fllings. Graham
You can freeze these crusts for 20
(Should the
crackers are rhe usual base, but
minutes before f lling and not bake
ing baking, it can usually be
crust slip or bu bble dur
chocolate and vanilla wafers, ginger
them, bur they are indisputably
smoothed into place with the back
snaps, and zwieback also make ',von
crunchier and more favorful when
of a spoon.) To prevent sticking,
derful crumb crusts. If you are start
baked. Measure the butter and sugar
lightly grease or oil the pan before
ing with crackers or cookies, grind
carefull y. If there is too little of
patting the crust into the pan If the
them in a food processor or put
either, the crumbs will not cohere
crust sticks nonetheless, set the bot
them in a sturdy plastiC bag and pul
when patted into the pan. If there is
tom of the pan in a bowl of warm
verize them wi th a rolling pin. The
too much, the crust may slip down
water for 1 minute.
The proportions here ore ample for 0
Mix toge ther with a fork or pul se in
pan. Using your f ngertips or the fiat
1 0-inch pie pon or a 1 0- to 1 2-inch
a food proc essor until all the ingre
bottom of a drinking glass, firmly
springform pon, and very generous for
dients are moistened:
press the mixture over the bottom
Q 9-inch pie pon or on
9-inch
1 Yz cups fine crwnbs made from
and Y2 inch up the sides of a pie pan
springform pon. For the smaller size
grahanl crackers, chocolate or
or over the bo ttom of a springform
pons, you con reduce quantities to I y,;
vanilla wafers, or gingersnaps
pan. Freeze for 20 minutes or bake
Cru mb Crust One I O-inch pie crust
8- to
cups crumbs, 5 tablespoons butter, and
3
tablespoons sugar
6 tablespoons (0/. stick) melted butter, warm or cool
until the crust is lightly browned and fnn to the touch, 1 0 to 1 5
If you wish to bake the crust, pre
Y4 cup sugar
minutes Let cool thoroughly if fll
heat the oven to 3 5 0 °F. Lightly
if. teaspoon ground cinnamon
ing with a cooked mixture, but use
grease or oil a pie pan or spring
hot if fill in g with a mixture that
(optional) Spread the mixture evenly in the
form pan.
requires baking.
N ut Crust One 1 0-inch pie crust To make this crust in 0 food processor;
2 cups walnuts or pecans
sides of a pie pan or over the bot
combine nut halves or pieces with the
Add and mix
tom and Y2 inch up the sides of a
,,'lith a fork until uni
butter, sugar, and salt and pulse until
formly moistened :
springform pan. Bake until the crust
the nuts ore fmely chopped
4 tablespoons (IA stick) unsalted
is richly browned, 10 to 15 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 3 75°F. Grease a 9 - or 1 Q-inch pie pan or an
8-
to
butter, softened
3 tablespoons sugar
Check the crust periodically during baking; if the crust has slipped down
1 Q inch springform pan.
v. teaspoon salt
the sides of the pal), smooth it into
Chop to the consistency of coarse
Using your fingertips or the flat bot
place with the back of a spoon and
crumbs, either by hand or in a
tom of a drinking glass, press the
continue baking. Let cool completely
food processor:
mixture evenly over the bottom and
on a wire rack before f lling.
30 PIES & TARTS
Meri ngue Pie Crust One I O-inch p ie
crust
Pure white, sweet crisp, and (at (ree,
Prepare :
meringue is
on excellent crust for ice cream and (rozen yogurt pies or (or
Soft Meringue Topping. right
torts mode with fiesh
(ruit and whipped cream. Meringue shells con be
lOrn and sides of the prepared pie
Soft Meringue Topping
pan with the back of a spoon Bake
Covers one 9·jnch pie or makes one
mode in small
pons o( any size
or
(armed on a baking sheet using a
Spread the meringue over the bOl
until the interior of the meringue seems just slightly sticky when
spoon or a pastry bog. Note the long
probed with the point of a paring
boking-<md long storing-time.
knife, 1 VI to 2 hours. Turn off the
Position a rack in the lower third of
oven and let the crust cool com
the oven. Preheat dIe oven to 225°F.
pletely inside the oven. Wrap the
Very generously grease, with solid
crust airtight and store at room rem
vegetable short ening , both the inside
perarure until needed It will keep
and the rim of a 1 O -inch pie pan,
indefnitely. If it becomes soft during
preferably glass. Dust the pan with
s torage. bake unwrapped in a
f our, tilt in all directions to coat,
oven for I hour to recrisp.
then tap out the excess
200°F
I O inch crust This meringue is excellent ror topping
pies os well as making meringue
crusts. Becaus e it is sWbilized by
starch. when this meringue is us ed as a topping. it does
not weep. leak.
or deflate even when re(ngerated for several doys. In a small saucepan thoroughly mix:
I tablespoon cornstarch I tablespoon sugar Gradual ly stir in. making a smooth, runny paste: Y3 cup water
Bring to a boil over medium heat, st rring briskly al l the wh le, then boil for
15
second s until a thick,
translucent paste is formed.
Remove from the heat and cover with a lid or saucer. In a clean. grease·free glass or metal bowl, beat on medium speed until foamy:
4 large egg whites (Y2 cup), at room temperature
Add and beat until soft but definite peaks form: Y2 teaspoon vanilla
� teaspoon cream of tartar Very gradua ly beat in:
h cup sugar, preferably superfine Beat on high speed unt l the peaks
are very stiff and glossy but not dry Reduce the speed to low and beat in the comstarch paste I tablespoon at a t ime . When all the paste is incorporated. increase the sp eed to medium and beat for 10 seconds . Bake as directed in your recipe.
ABOUT CRUSTS J I
ABOUT COVERE D FRU IT PI ES A
hundred years ago, fruit pies were eaten for breakfast as well as supper During those times, American housewives often baked a
dozen or more fruit pies every week. Today many home bakers have never made a covered fruit pie, but this chapter will teach you the basics and
beyond.
Fruit pies are often less than picture perfect. They might bubble over during
baking, brown unevenly; stick
to
the pan, or yield somewhat
runny slices. No matter what you do you might also end
up with a pie
whose undercrust turns out slightly soft on the side facing the fruit.
But
don't be discouraged. These are normal occurrences in the baking of fruit pies, and certainly do not affect the unforgettable taste of an old fashioned covered fruit pie.
Blueberry Pie, 40
F i l l i ngs for Fru it Pies A covered fruit pie is simply fruit
ensure that the top crust will not
you are partial to pies that slice neatly
baked between two crusts, the upper
sink and the f lling will seem ample.
and are willin g to risk a slightly
one of which is a single pastry sheet
The measuring cup should be lev
solid flling, add the greater amount
or multiple strips of pastry arranged
eled, not heaped. Alth ough it is pos
in a lattice. Other than the fruit,
sible (and tempting) to mound 6 to
of thickener called for.
which may be canned, frozen, dried,
7 cups of fruit into a 9-inch crust,
choice for thickener among home
or precooked as well as fresh and
it is not wise to do so, for the pie is
cooks, cornstarch or quick-cooking
raw, the flling usually contains sugar
certain to gush juices as it bakes,
tapioca produces clearer fillings and
and a thickener such as f our, corn
and it may not hold together well
a smoother, more melting consis
starch, or quick cooking tapioca
when sliced.
tency. The exception is apple pie,
Older recipes, our own included,
Ideally, the amount of sugar and
generally call for 4 cups of sliced
thickener added to the flling should
While f our is still a popular
which seems to benef t from the creaminess that f our imparts. Of
fresh fruit or berries for a 9 inch
be adjusted according to the sweet
course, you may thicken any fruit
fruit pie, which is the approximate
ness, acidity, and juiciness of the
pie with four. Use twice as much f our as cornstarch or tapioca
amount that a standard 9-inch pie
fruit. Sugar is a simple issue, but
pan will hold when lined with pas
deciding how much thickener to
try. However, since raw fruit shrinks
add is tricky. In general , we lean
Once mixed, fruit pie fllings should not stand longer than
when cooked, we now prefer to
toward the lesser quantity of thick
IS minutes before being turned
start with 5 cups of fruit, or even
ener suggested in the recipes when
into the crust, or else they may
more in the case of apples, to
there is a choice given. However, if
become too juiCy.
CORNSTARCH AND TAPIOCA A pure starch with almost t\\iice
the thickening power of four, cornstarch is an excellent and relatively unobtrusive thickening agent Unlike four, it adds no f oury taste. Tapioca is derived from the root of the tropical cassava plant, which in many parts of the world is boiled and eaten as a starch Most supermarkets today cany qUick cooking tapioca, a precooked form that comes in tiny grains and is used to thicken fruit pie f llings. If you are making a pie with a lattice LOp, it's best to use corn starch rather than quick-cooking tapioca The exposed tapioca grains sometimes do not cook and melt n i to the fruit, resulting in a watery, grainy filling bubbling over the lattice strips.
14 PIES & TARTS
Crusts for Fru it Pies Crusts for covered fruit pies must be made with a f aky pastry dough. Flaky Pastry Dough, 15, made either with shortening Or with a combina tion of butter and shortening, and
1 7, are suitable for any fruit pie. Lard Fioky Pastry Dough, IS, is particularly good with apple pies but works as well with other fruit pies, so Long as you appreci ate the flavor of lard Flaky Cream Cheese Pastry Dough, 18, is also a good all- purpose dough, though Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry Dough,
Form i ng Roll
out
a
the bottom crust, fit i t into
to %.
a bit too tangy with tart fruits such as sour cherries and rhu barb. If you like, use Cornmeal Flaky Pastry Dough, 1 7, for blueberry or blackberry pies or Nut Flaky Pastry Dough, 1 7, with stone fruits, such as peaches or cherries. Be aware, how
ever, that these dough s tend to leak baking. Sweet Flaky Pastry Dough, 1 7, is not good for covered fruit pies, as it is likely to char during the long baking. during
In making the dough for a covered
fruit pie, it is better to add slightly more liquid than is needed rather than too little. If the dough is dry and crumbly, the filling is likel y to seep through the bottom crust, even when there are no visible cracks or holes. When you divide the finished dough before wrapping and chilling, allow a sli ghtly larger portion for the bottom crus t than for the top. The bottom crust needs to be rolled a tad thick to withstand the juices released
by
the fruit during baking
Covered Fru it Pie
the pan, and trim the overhanging
dough
you may f nd it
inch all around (see How
to Roll Out Pastry Dough, 1 9 ) . Patch any
holes, tears, or thin spots \\'ith dough scraps, dabbing them on one side \vith cold water and then firmly pressing them, moistened side down, into place. Cover any short spots in the overhang in the same manner; if the pie is to be well sealed, you must have a wide overhang all around. Carefully transfer the lined pan to the refrigerator. Roll the remaining half of the dough into a 1 2 -inch round,
slip
a
rimless cookie sheet beneath
it, and
refrigerate il. (To make a plain or woven lattice top, see How to Make Q Lattice Top, 4 1.) Prepare the filling a s your reCipe directs. Remove the bottom crust
from the refrig erator and f ll it. Dot
the
top
with butter if your redpe Brush the overhanging edge of the bottom crust with cold water and place the top crust over calls for it.
the pie. Firmly pinch the edges of
bo th crusts together with your fingers to seaL Trim th e doubled edge to make an even overhang of
% inch, then tuck the overhang underneath itself ( I ) so that the folded edge is fush with the rim of the pie pan Crimp or f ute the edge as for a single-crust pie (see page 2 1 ) ; a high f uted rim will help to contain any juices that bubble through the top crust. Cut three or four 2-inch
slashes in the top crust (2) to allow steam to escape during baking. If you \;vish, cut scraps of dou gh into decorative shapes, brush lightly with cold water, and press onto the top crust (3).
Baki ng the Pie Fruit pies must be baked as soon as
Do not declare the pie done unti1
they are f lled and assembled, or the
the top has turned a deep, rich
juicy f lling ·will begin to soften the
brown, almost the color of a hazel
bottom crust. Thoroughly preheat
nut shell, and thick juices bubble
dle oven and place the pie on the
enthusiastically through the steam
lowest oven rack to brown and crisp
vents or lattice Remember that pies
the undercrust and prevent the
glazed with egg, milk, or cream
upper crust from becoming too
will often brown vvithin the f rst
dark. Fruit pies made with raw f ll
30 minutes of baking, long before
ings are baked at a high temperature
they are baked through. You can
for 30 minutes to set the crust, then
slow, though not srop, the brov,ming
baked about 30 minutes more at a
process by laying a sheet of alu
moderate temperature to cook the
minum foil loosely over the top
filling. Pies made with precooked
crust Fruit pies are apt to char
f llings are baked at a high tempera
around the edge, especially when
ture throughout, generally for some
the pies spill over Do not worry. A
what less time than for raw fruit fll
charred rim is a small price to pay
ings. The downfall of untold fruie
for a well-baked crust.
pies is a fabby, underbaked crust.
Maki ng a Pie with Any Fru it One 9-lnch pie;
6 to 8 servings
Once you develop a feel for making fruit pies, you can virtually dispense
1 tablespoon strained fresh lemon juice
with recipes. A 9-inch pie (opposite)
Ys teaspoon salt
needs about 5 cups of fresh fruit or
2 to 3 tablespoons unsalted butter,
berries plus sugar, thickener, and a little butter. You will seJdom go wrong if you use the formula below
cut into small pieces Mix the fruit, sugar, thickener, lemon juice, and salt and let stand for
There are, of course, special cases.
1 5 minutes before pouring i t into
Tart fruits such as sour cherries,
the pie crust. Dot the butter over the
rhubarb, cranberries, gooseberries,
f lling. Brush the edge of the bottom
blackberries, fresh currants, and
crust with cold water, then cover
green romatoes require 1 to 1 12 cups
with the top crust or lattice. Seal the
sugar. Apples need only half as much
edge, trim, and crimp or fute. Cut
thickener, while j uicy berries may
steam vents in the top crust.
require one-third more, especially if they are heavily svveetened. 5 cups sliced fruit, peeled if neces sary, or berries
Bake the pie in the lower third of a 4 2 5 °F oven for 30 minutes; then slip a baking sheet beneath it, reduce the oven temperature to
1,4 cup sugar
350°F, and bake the pie until thick
3 tablespoons quick-cooking
juices bubble through the vents,
tapioca or cornstarch
about 30 minutes more.
ABOUT COVERED FRUIT PIES 3 7
Apple Pie I One 9-inch pie; 6 to 8 servings We like uSing Golden Delicious apples
the oven. Preheat the oven to
in this pie because they retain their
Peel, core, and slice y� inch thick
texture and do not �ood the pie with jUice. Gala and Fuji are also good Classic alternatives are: Newton Pippin, Rhode Island Greening Win esap, Northern Spy, and Jonathon We do not recommend Granny Smiths; although cnsp when raw, all too often they tum mushy when baked in 0 pie with both 0 top and 0 bottom crust. Apple pie is best with a nch crust. A lord crust IS superb; on ordinary �oky
2 y, pounds apples (5 to 6 medium-
Ys teaspoon salt
steam vent and du ck juices have
pastry crust mode entirely with veg
let stand for 1 5 minutes, stirring
begun to bubble through the vents,
etable shortening makes a surprisingly close facsimile. Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry Dough, 1 7, is also very good. Because the filling storts out heaped, a lattice top IS not feasible; if you wont a lattice, make Apple Pie I I , 40, In which the filling is partially cooked before going into the p e . It is crucial to slice the apples about � inch thick measured at the thicker end If the apple slices are thinner the filling is opt to turn m ushy; if thicker the pie will not hold together when it is cut ReSISt the temptation to odd other spices or flavorings A hint of cinnamon is all that is needed Before beginning, please read the material on pages 34 to 35, and Apples, right. Prepare: Flaky Pastry Dough, IS, Lard Flaky Pastry
Dough, 15, or Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry Dough, 1 7
425°F.
Brush the edge of the bottom crust vvith cold water Cover with the top
large)
crust, then seal the edge, trUn, and crimp or f ute. Cut steam vents and
Measure 6 cups. Combine the apples
sprinkle with:
with:
2 teaspoons sugar
* cup sugar
Ys
2 to
Bake the pie for 30 minutes. Slip a
3 tablespoons all-purpose
flour
teaspoon ground cinnamon
baking sheet beneath it, reduce tlle
1 tablespoon strained fresh lemon juice (optional)
oven temperature to 3 5 0°F, and bake until the fruit feels just tender -vhen
'fz teaspoon ground cinon
a knife or skewer is poked through a
several times, so that the apples
30 to 45 minutes more. For the
soften slightly and will better f l into
f lling to thicken properly, the pie
the crust. Pour the mixture into the
must cool completely on a rack, 3 to
bottom crust and gently level with
4 hours. If you wish to serve the pie
the back of a spoon. Dot the top
warm, place it in a 3 5 0°F oven for
with:
about 1 5 minutes. The pie is best the
2
tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
day it is baked, but it can be kept for
2
to 3 days at room temperature.
APPLES Apples are classed according to how
When buying apples, look for
they are used Eating apples are, as a
fruit with fesh that feels frm and
rule, crisp or crunchy juicy, sweet or
tight beneath the skin There should
s·weet tart with an intriguing aroma
be no soft spots, dark bruises, or
,
and complex favor Cooking apples are
holes. Do not be deceived by size.
usually frmer and on the tart side,
Larger apples tend to mature faster
although they may be juicy and
and thus can be mealier than small
touched with sweetness Most apples
ones For fast ripening, keep apples at
contain between 10 and 14 percent
room temperature For longest keep
sugar Tart apples just contain more
ing, refrigerate sound 'apples in per
malic acid, which blunts their sweet
forated plastiC bags or keep in a dry,
Roll half the dough into a 1 3 -inch
ness The texture of an apple's cooked
round, fit it into a 9-inch pie pan,
fesh can be fuffy, as in a baked Rome
favor of cooking apples by leaving
and trim the overhanging dough to
Beauty; tender but intact, as in a
them at room temperature for a day
3j� inch al around. Refrigerate. Roll
Jonagold; or thick, as in Newton Pippin
or tw"o before using.
the other half of the dough into a 1 2-inch round for the top crust and refrigerate it. Position a rack in the lower third of
,)8 PIES & TARTS
applesauce A few splendid varieties like
cold place�32"F to 40°F Mellow he t
To peel an apple, use a svvivel
Golden Delicious and Gravenstein are
bladed vegetable peeler�a knife
suited to both eating and cooking
takes too much f esh
-"
ABOUT COVERED FRUIT PIES 3 9
Apple Pie I I One 9 lnch pie; 6
to 8 servings
Because row opples shrink a great deal
and (rim the overhanging dough to
apples at a rapid boil until the juices
dunng baking apple pies tend to develop
% inch all around. Refrigerate. Roll
become thick and syrupy, about
a gop
and fruit, the top crust (0 crumble when
between the top crust
causing
the other half into a 1 2-inch round
3 minutes. Immediately spread the
for the {OP crust and refrigerate it.
apples in a tllin layer on a baking
the pie is sliced. In this recipe, the filling
For a lattice top, see opposite.
sheet and let them cool.
is precooked and thus preshrunk. elimi
Peel, core, and sUce a little thicker
Position a rack in the lower third of
nating the gop and producing a beauti
than Y4 inch:
{ully full, compact pie that slices like a
3 pounds apples (about 6
charm. Precooking a/so allows you to cover the pie with
a lattice top
if you
Measure 7 cups. In a very v.ride skil
tom crust. Brush the overhanging edge of the bottom crust with cold
sizzling and fragrant:
made with raw apples. On the other hand, since the filling requires
3 no
Pour the apple mixture into the bot
let or pot, heat over high heat until
choose. This pie is slighdy softer than one
the oven. Preheat the oven to 425 °F. large)
tablespoons unsalted butter
Add the apples and toss until glazed
water Cover with the top crust or lattice, then seal me edge, [Tim, and crimp or f ute. If using a closed top
thickener, the pie has a lovely frUity
with the butter. Reduce the heat to
crust, Cut steam vems. Bake until
taste. To select opples for a pie, see
medium, cover tightly, and cook,
the crust is richly browned and the
page
stirring frequently, UTItil the apples
flling has begun to bubble, 40 to
38. Before beginning please
read
the material on pages 34 to 35.
are softened but still slightly
50 minutes. Let cool completely on
Prepare :
crunchy, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in:
a rack, 3 to 4 hours. If you wish to
Flaky Pasrry Dough, 15, Lard Flaky Pastry
¥. cup sugar
serve the pie warm, place it in a
Dough, 15, or Deluxe Butter Flaky
Yi teaspoon ground cinnamon
350°F oven for about 1 5 minutes.
Pasrry Dough, 1 7
% teaspoon salt
The pie is best the day it is baked,
Roll half the dough into a 1 3 -inch
Increase the heat to high a nd, stir
but it can be kept at room tempera
round, tit it into a 9-inch pie pan,
ring to prevent scorching, cook the
ture for 2 to 3 days.
dough into a 1 2 -inch round for
crust and dO[ wilh:
the top crust and refrigerate it. For
1 to 2 tablespoons unsalted butter,
Bl ueberry Pie One 9-inch pie; 8 servings If you are constructing 0 lattice, use cornstarch, ond
the
greater amount
suggested, to prevent a granular or
a lattice top, see oppOSite.
watery filling from bubbling over the
Position a rack in the lower third of
Brush the edge of the bottom crust
strips. Before beginning please read the moteral on pages 34 to 35.
the oven. Preheat the oven {0 425°F.
with cold water. Cover with me top
Combine and let stand 1 5 minutes:
crust or lattice, then seal the edge,
5 cups blueberries. picked over l,4 to 1 cup sugar
trim, and crimp or f ute. If using a
3 Y2 [0 4 tablespoons quick-cooking
Bake the pie for 30 minutes. Slip a
Prepare:
Flaky Pasrry Dough, 15, Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry Dough, 17, Cornmeal Flaky Pastry Dough, 17, or double recipe Flaky Cream Cheese
Pastry Dough, 1 8 Roll half the dough into a 1 3 -inch round, fit it into a 9-inch pie pan,
tapioca or cornstarch
1 tablespoon strained fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest (optional)
cut into small pieces
closed top crust, cut steam vems. baking sheet beneath it, reduce the oven temperature (0 3 5 0°F, and bake uutil thick juices bubble drrough rhe vents, 25 (0 35 minutes more. Let cooL The pie is best the day it is
and trim, leaving a lJ.-inch overhang.
y. teaspoon salt
baked, but it can be stored at room
Refrigerate. Roll the other half of the
Pour the mixture into the bottom
temperature for up to
40 PIES & TARTS
1
day.
HOWTO MAKE A LATTICE TOP
Lattice tops ore (un to make. A plain lattice, which simply entails laying strips of dough in Q crisscross pattern over the top of the pie, requires less patience than a woven lattice, but
crust. Fold th e edge of the bottom crust up, coveri ng the ends of the lattice strips, then cri m p or flute
the edge.
both are easy. To measure and cut
3 To Form a Woven Lattice Top: For
the strips,
a 9 inch pie pan, roll the dough
you wi/! n eed a ruler and a small, sharp kni[e. A decorative pastry wheel (pastry jogger) will put a pretty edge on the strips, but this tool is not necessary. To pick up and move the strips, a metal dough scraper is helpful
rese rved for the top crust i nto
a 1 3Yt-inch round and trim the round to make a I O inch square.
Cut the sq uare into e i ghteen %-inch strips. Arrange 9 of the strips Y2 inch apart on a floured rimless cookie
bu(' again. not essential.
sheet (or on the back of a baking
Woven lattices tend to soften and become juice-soaked when formed directly on the pie, so construct them on Q cookie sheet and then transfer them, chilled. to the pie. Since tapioca granules that are exposed in the spaces of a lattice sometimes fail
ro
soften, it s wise to thicken fillings (or lattice-top pies with cornstarch (or
pan). Fold every other stri p h alfway
back. m aki ng the ends meet. then place I str p crosswise just beyond the fo lded ed ge . Return the folded
strips to their original flat position over the perpendicular strip Fold back the strips that you just left flat and then place a second strip cross
wise just beyond the folded edge. Unfold strips over the second per
�our) instead.
pen d i cular stri p. Repeat until you I To Form
a P lain
Lattice Top: For a
9-inch pie pan, roll the dough
have woven 5 crosswi se strips into the lattice, completing one half.
reserved for the top crust into a
Now weave the remaining 4 cross
1 3.�-inch round and trim the round
wise strips into the lattice starting
to make a I O-inch square. Cut the
on the other side of the center
square of dough into 1 8 str ps, each
crosswi se strip , completing the
about 11 inch wide. Spoon the filling
other ha f. Refr gerate th e l atti ce
i nto the bottom crust of the pie and
un ti l fi rm .
brush the edge of the bottom crust with cold water. Place 9 of the dough
4 Fill the bottom crust of the pie and
strips Y2 inch apart on top of the
brush the exposed edge with cold
pie, then arrange the rema ning
water. Slide the lattice off the sheet
dough stri ps over th ese. either on a
onto the pi e. Tri m the latti ce stri ps so
di agonal or in a perpen dicu lar criss
that th ey hang over the edge of th e
cross patte rn .
bottom crust at least Y; i n ch on each
2 Trim the lattice strips so that they
bottom crust Fold the edge of the
end. Press the stri ps against the
hang over the edge of the bottom
bottom crust up, cover ng the ends
crust at least X inch on each end.
of the latt ce strips, then crimp or
Press the stri ps agai n st the bottom
nute the edge.
ABOUT COVERED FRUIT PIES 4 1
Cherry Pie 8 servmgs
One
9-lnch pie;
Sour
cherries make the best pie. They
for the top crust and refrig erate it.
Pour the mixture into the bottom
ore tastier after cooking, since they are highly acidic and heat helps them absorb sweeteners. In lieu of sour cher ries, use ripe Bing cherries. A cherry or olive pitte, a device that looks lke a paper punch, is Q welcome time-saver here. Before beg nnmg, please read the material on pages 34 to 35.
For a lanice top, see page 4 1 .
crust and dot with:
Posi tion a rack i n the lower third of
2 to 3 tablespoons unsalted butter,
Prepare:
Flaky Pastry Dough, 15, Lard Floky Pastry Dough, 15, Deluxe Butter Floky Posrry Dough, 1 7, or double red pe Flaky Cream Cheese Pastry Dough, 18 Roll half the dough into a 1 3 -inch round, f t it into a 9-inch pie pan,
the oven. Preheat the oven to 425°F, Combine and let stand for I S minutes: S cups pitted sour or Bing cherries
(2 to 2 \" pounds)
cut into small pieces Brush the overhangin g edge of the bottom crust with cold water. Cover with the top crust or lattice, then
1 V. cups sugar for sour cherries, or
seal the edge, trim, and crimp or
¥. cup sugar for Bing cherries
f ute. If usin g a closed top crust,
3 to 3 Y, tablespoons quick-cooking
cut steam vents. Bake the pie for
tapioca or cornstarch (use the
3 0 minutes. Slip a baking sheet
greater amount of cQrnstarch
beneath it, reduce the oven tempera
for a lattice pie)
ture to 3 5 0°F, and bake umil thick
2 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon strained fresh lemon
juices bubble through the vents, 25 to
35
minutes more. let cool
completely on a rack before serving.
juice
and aim the overhanging dough to
v. teaspoon almond extract
Store at room temperature for up
3/.. inch all around. Refrigerate. Roll
1 to 2 drops red food coloring
to 1 day
the other half inre a 1 2 inch round
SOUR CHERRIES Although most commercial sour cherries, also called pie or tart
(optional)
/ http ://www .kuharka .ru
cherries, are canned, you may find fresh morellos, delightful with their red juice, or amareUes, with their clear juice, close to where they are grovvn. Sour cherries ripen a couple of weeks after sweet cherries. Montmorency, a morello, is the principal sour cherry in this country. It is predominantly grown in New England, around the Great Lakes, and on the Great Plains. Heart-shaped Duke cherries are a sweet-and-sour cross. Their sprightly yenow f esh is good for cooking and for preserves. Sour cherries are sent to market ripe. Choose them indiVidually (never packaged) after tasting one for Aa vor. Select the largest, glOSSiest, plumpest , brightest, and firmest with the greenest stems.
ABOUT COVER.ED FRUIT PIES 43
Can n ed Fru it Pies Conned fruits, preferably pocked in unsweetenedjuice, make acceptable pies. For Cherry Pie with Canned or Bottled Fruit, see opposite; for Winter Peach Pie, see page 47. Otherwise use the formula below.
Pour into a
Shake the fruit lighdy to drain.
bottom cruSt with
Prepare :
Measure 3 % cups fruit and % cup
with the top crUSt or lattice. then
Flaky Pastty Dough, 1 5
juice and
sieve set
over a bowl:
3 pounds canned fruit. such as sliced pears or peaches, halved apricots, chopped pineapple, or whole plums
combine in a bowl with:
a little of the fruit and liquid. Dot with:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter. cut into small pieces Brush the
overhanging edge of the cold water. Cover
seal the edge. trim, and crimp or
1 3 -inch round, f t it into a 9-inch
VI to 3,4 cup sugar 3 tablespoons quick-cooking
pie pan, and trim the overhanging
tapioca or cornstarch (use
3 0 minutes . Slip a baking sheet
dough to 3/4 inch all around. Refrig
cornstarch for a lattice pie)
beneath the pan, reduce the oven
Roll
half of the dough into a
erate. Roll the other half imo a 1 2-inch round for the top crust and
2 tablespoons strained fresh lemon juice
f ute. If using a closed top crust, cut steam vents. Bake the pie for
temperature to 3 5 0°F, and bake until thiCk juices
bubble through
refrigerate it. If you wish to make a
Let the mixture stand for 1 5 min
the vents, 25 to 35 minutes more.
lanice top, see page 4 1 .
utes. then pour into the bottom
Let cool completely on a rack
Position a rack in the lower third of
crust. If the
before serving.
the oven. Preheat
44 PIES & TARTS
the oven to 425°F.
crust seems too full to
be covered with a pastry lid. remove
Cherry Pie with Canned or Bottled Fru it One 9-inch pie; 8 servings Conned or bottled sour cherries make
Position a rack in the lower third of
Let stand for 1 5 minutes, then pour
a more flavorful pie thon conned or
the oven. Preheat the oven to 425°F.
into the bottom crust and dot with:
bottled sweet ones.Adjust the sugar
Pour into a sieve set over
2 to 3 tablespoons butter. cut into
depending on which type you have
3 pounds bottled or canned. pitted
ond the pochng liquid used Before
a bowl:
cherries
small pieces Brush the overhanging edge of the
beginning, please reod the material
Shake the cherries Ughtly to drain.
bottom crust with cold water. Cover
on poges 34 to 35.
Measure 4 cups fruit and V2 cup
with the top crust or lattice, then
Prepare:
juice and combine with:
seal the edge, trim, and crimp or
Flaky Pastry Dough, 15, Lard Flaky Pastry
Yz cup sugar for sweet cherries in syrup. % cup sugar for sour
fute. If using
Dough, 15, Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry
a
closed top crust,
cut steam vents. Bake the pie for
Dough, 1 7, or double recipe Flaky
cherries in light syrup. or
3 0 minutes. Slip a baking sheet
Cream Cheese Pastry Dough, 18
1 % cups sugar for sour cherries
beneath it, reduce the oven tempera
packed in water
ture to 3 5 0 °F, and bake until thick
Roll half the dough into a 1 3 inch
3 tablespoons quick-cooking
juices bubble thro ugh the vents,
and trim the overhanging dough to
tapioca or cornstarch (use
25 to 3 5 minutes more. Let cool
%- inch all around . Refrigerate. Roll
cornstarch for a lattice pie)
round, f t it into a 9-inch pie pan,
the other half into a 1 2 -inch round for the top crust and refrigerate it. For a lattice top, see page 4 1 .
1 tablespoon strained fresh lemon juice
completely on a rack before serving. Store at room temperature for up to 1 day.
% teaspoon almond extract
FREEZING FRUIT PIES
Fruit pies, except those made with custard freeze surpris ngly well. For best results. freeze the pies before bak ng. Form the pie in a pan lined with plastic wrap. Do not cut steam vents in the top or apply a glaze. Freeze the pie solid. then pry it out of the pan and peel off the wrap Wrap the pie a rtight in foil. seal it in a plastic bag. and freeze for up to 6 months. When you are ready to bake the pie, return it. still frozen but unwrapped, to its origi nal pan and glaze it if you wish. Bake the pie at 425°F for 1 0 m n utes, cut vents in the top, and bake for 20 minutes more. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F and bake the pie until thick juices bubble through the vents about I
hour longer.
ABOUT COVERED FRUIT PIES 4S
Peach Pie One 9-inch pie; 8 servings Whether freestone or clingstone, yel/ow or white, peaches make Q luscious pie. Before beginning please read the materia! on pages 34 to 35. For tips on peeling peaches, see page 65. Prepare:
Flaky Pastry Dough, 15, Lard Floky Pastry Dough,
15, Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry
Dough, 17, or double recipe Flaky Cremu Cheese Pastry Dough,
18
Roll half the dough into a 1 3 inch round, fit it into a 9-inch pie pan
Peel, pit, and slice Y.. inch chick :
bottom crust with cold water. Cover
2 Yl pounds peaches
with the top crust or lanice, then
Measure 5 cups and combine with :
seal the edge, trim, and crimp or
YI to :y. cup sugar 3 to 3 YI tablespoons quick-cooking
fure. If using a closed top crust, cut steam vents. Lightly brush the top
tapioca or cornstarch (use the
of tlle pie with:
greater amount of cornstarch
Milk or cream
for a lattice pie)
Sprinkle with:
3 tablespoons strained fresh lemon juice
Y.. teaspoon almond extract (optional)
2 teaspoons sugar Bake the pie for 30 minutes. Slip a bakin g sheet beneath it, reduce the oven temperature to 3 5 0op, and bake until thick juices bubble through
and trim the overhanging dough to
% teaspoon salt
l/.. inch all around. Refrigerate. Roll
Let stand for 1 5 minutes , stirring
me vents, 25 to 35 minutes more.
the other half inro a I 2 inch round
occasionally. Pour into the bo[tom
Let cool completely on a rack before
for the top cruSt and refrigerate iL
crust and dot with:
serving. This pie (oppOSite) is best
2 to 3 tablespoons unsalted butter,
the day it is baked, but it can be
For a lattice top. see page 4 1 .
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 425°F.
cut into small pieces
stored at room temperature for up
Brush the overhanging edge of the
to 1 day.
2 YI pounds calUled sliced peaches,
2 to
Winter Peach Pie One\9-inch
pie; 8 servings
This
pie con also be mode in the summer with 5 cups sliced fresh peaches in place of the canned. It is gorgeous with a lattce top. Before beginning please read the material on pages 34 to 35.
Shake the peaches hghtly to drain.
Prepare:
l!J cup dark raisins
Flaky Pastry Dough, IS, Lard Flaky Pastry
'h cup firmly packed light brown
Dough, IS, Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry Dough, 1 7, or double recipe Flaky Cream Cheese Pastry Dough,
18
Roll half the dough into a 1 3 -inch round, fit it into a 9-inch pie pan, and trim the overhanging dough to
%- inch all around. Refrig erate. Roll
packed in juice
3
tablespoons unsalted butter.
cut into small pieces
Brush the overhanging edge of the
Measure 3 cu ps fr uit and IA cup
bo[(om crust with cold water. Cover
juice and combine with:
with the top crust or lattice, then
sugar
3 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca or cornstarch (use cornstarch for a lattice pie)
2 tablespoons strained fresh lemon juice lh teaspoon ground ginger
seal the edge, trim, and crimp or
f ute If using a closed top crust , cut steam vents. Whisk together,
then lightly brush the top of the
pie with: 1 large egg yolk
Ys teaspoon water Bake the pie for 30 minutes. Slip a baking sheet beneath it, reduce the
the other half into a 1 2 -inch round
y. teaspoon groWld CiIlllaITlOn
oven temperature to 3 5 0°F, and bake
for the top crust and refrigerate it
y. teaspoon ground mace or freshly
until thick juices bubble through the
For a lattice top, see page
41.
Position a rack i n the lower third of
grated or ground nuoneg
% teaspoon ground cloves
vents, 25 to 35 minutes more. Let cool completely on a rack before
the oven Preheat the oven to 425°F.
Let stand for 1 5 minutes , then pour
serving. Store at room temperature
Pour into a sieve set over a bowl:
into the bottom crust and dot with:
for up to J day.
ABOUT COVERED FRUIT PIES 47
48 PIES & TARTS
Com b i n atio n F i l l i ngs Fruit pies filled with combinations
3 V2 cups sliced peeled pears and
of fruits and berries are infinite in
1 % cups raspberries, cranberries,
posSibility and oft�n magical in
or dark raisins
result. However, those who demand predictability should not venture out onto this limb. It is tricky to gauge the thickening and sweetening
3 % cups sliced peeled peaches and 1 1/2 cups blueberries or raspber
required for combination fllings,
2 %. cups diced rhubarb 4 cups pitted sour or sweet
cherries and 1 cup dark raisins 2 % cups sliced strawberries and 2 V2 cups gooseberries
ries 3 cups sliced peeled apples and
and the colors are sometimes star
2 VI cups pitted sour cherries and
2 cups sliced green tomatoes
31, cups sliced peeled apples and
tling. We recommend the following
1 V2 cups raspberries, blackberries,
combinations :
or fresh currants
4 cups diced fresh pineapple and 1 cup dark raisins or sliced strawberries 2V2 cups sliced bananas and 2 V2 cups blueberries or sliced strawberries
Rh u barb Pie One 9-inch pie; 8 servings
If possible, make this pie early in
the
season, when the stalks are still thin skinned, pink, and no thicker than your
Grated zest of
1 % teaspoon salt
orange (optional)
Let stand for 1 5 minutes, stirring
thumb. Only mature rhubarb Will require
occasionally. Pour into the bottom
the greater amount of sugar suggested.
crust and dot with:
Before beginning, please read the
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut
motenol on pages 34 to 35.
Flaky Pastry Dough,
into small pieces Brush the overhanging edge of the
Prepare :
15, Lard Flaky Pastry
Dough, 1 5 , Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry
bottom crust with cold water. Cover with the top crust or lattice, then
Dough, 1 7 , or double recipe Flaky
seal the edge. trim, and crimp or
Cream Cheese Pastry Dough, 1 8
fute.
Roll half the dough into a 1 3 -inch
If using
a closed top crust. cm
steam vents. Lightly brush the top of
round, f t it into a 9-inch pie pan,
the pie with:
and trim the overhanging dough to
Milk or cream
3(. inch al around. Refrigera(e Roll
Sprinkle with:
the other half into a 1 2 -inch round
2 teaspoons sugar
for the top crust and refrigerate it.
Bake the pie for 30 minutes. Slip a
For a lattice top, see page 4 1 .
baking sheet beneath it, reduce the
Position a rack in the lower third of
oven temperature to 3 5 0°F, and bake
the oven. Preheat the oven to 425°F.
until thick juices bubble through the
Cut into I -inch lengths:
vents, 25 to 35 minutes more. Let
1% to 2 pOWlds rhubarb stalks
cool completely on a rack before
Measure 5 cups and combine with:
serving. This pie is best eaten the day
1 % to 1 VI cups sugar
it is baked. but it can be stored at
y. cup quick-cooking tapioca or
room temperattue for up to 1 day.
STRAWBERRY RHUBARB PIE This
pie (opposite) tastes more or
strawberries than of rhubarb. Prepare Rhubarb Pie, lef� substi tuting 212 cups strawberries, hulled and halved lengthwise. for 212 cups of the rhubarb. Decrease the sugar to I cup and omit the
orange zest
cornstarch (use cornstarch for a lattice pie)
ABOUT COVERED FRUIT PIES 49
Rai sin Pie One 9-inch pie; 8 servings Some raisin pies ore made with cream, sour cream, and eggs ond ore similar to cream or chess pies. This one consists almost entirely of raisins. You con substi tute dried sour cherries for up to half of the raisins. Before beginning please read the material on pages 34 to 35. Prepare:
Flaky Pastry Dough, 15, Lard Flaky Pastry Dough,
15, Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry
4 cups
( 1 Y, pounds)
dark raisins,
or 2 cups dark raisins and 2 cups
oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
golden raisins
2 Vl cups water
Turn the flling imo the bottom
Reduce the heat and gently simmer for
5
cool to room temperature. Position a rack in the center of the
minutes. Remove the saucepan
crust. Brush the overhanging bottom crust with cold water. Cover with
from the heat. Mix thoroughly, then
the top crust or lattice, then seal the
stir into the raisins :
edge, trim, and crimp or f ute If
1 cup frmly packed light or dark brown sugar
using a closed top crust, cur steam vents. If you Wish, brush the top of
Dough, 1 7, or double recipe Flaky
y. cup all-pW"pose HoW"
the pie with :
Cream Cheese Pastry Dough,
% teaspoon ground
1
18
Roll half o f the dough into a
cinnamon
(optional)
large egg yolk beaten with
y. teaspoon water
13 -inch round, ft it into a 9 inch
%. teaspoon salt
Bake the pie until the crust is richly
pie pan, and trim the overhanging
Add:
browned and the
dough to 3/4 inch aU around.
3
tablespoons unsalted butter, cut
dough into a 1 2 inch round for the
1
tablespoon sttained fresh lemon
lattice top, see page 4 1 .
Bring to a simmer over medium
into bits
Refrigerate. Roll the other half of the top crust and refrigerate it. For a
Bring to a boil i n a medium sauce pan over high heat :
juice or any kind of vinegar hear, stirring constantly, then con
filling is bubbly,
40 to 45 minutes. Let cool com pletely on a rack Store at room tem perature for up to 2 days. Accompany with:
Whipped Cream, 76, or vanilla ice cream
tinue to simmer for 1 minute. Let
RAISINS Raisins, which, of course, are simply dried grapes, are classified as seed less, which grow Wilhout seeds, and
i
seeded, wh ch have had (he seeds
removed. Dark seedless raisins are sun-dried principally from green
Thompson Seedless grapes, the same ones
we
buy at dle market. Monukka
raisins are made from large green
r
grapes with a riche flavor than Thompson. Golden seedless raisins
v
are also Thompsons but ha e been
oven dried and treated with sulfur
ultanas are also golden,
dioxide S
sweet, and seedless bur are dried from a yellow green Turkish grape. They are tbe standard pale raisin abroad and somelimes can be found
in fancy groceries
SO PIES & TARTS
Concord Grape Pie One 9-inch pie; 8 servings 1 tablespoon strained fresh lemon
Use only Concord grapes or a related variety whose skins slip off when pinched. Before beginning, please read the material on pages 34 to 35.
Let cool, then whisk in:
Prepare :
2 Y1. to 3 tablespoons quick-cooking
juice VB teaspoon salt
Flaky Pastry Dough,
tapioca or cornstarch (use the
Roll half o f the dough into a 1 3-inch
for a lattice pie)
15, or Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry Dough, 1 7
round, f t it into a 9-inch pie pan,
greater aJIlount of cornstarch Position a rack in the lower third of the
and trim the overhanging dough to
oven. Preheat the oven to 42S'F. Turn
1f. inch all around. Refrigerate. Roll
the filg into the bmtom crust. Brush
the other half of the dough into a
the overhanging edge of the bottom
I 2-inch round for the top crust and
crust with cold water. Cover with tOP
refrig erate it. For a lattice rap. see
crust or lattice, then seal the edge,
page 4 1 .
rrim, and crimp or f ule. If using a
GRAPES
Rinse. stem, and pick over:
closed top crust, cut steam vents. If you
Grapes native to this country have
4 cups Concord grapes (about
wish, brush the top of the pie wth,
2 pounds) One at a time, pinch the grapes to
1
large egg yolk beaten with Va teaspoon water
And sprinkle with:
skins and pulp. Simmer the pulp in
2 teaspoons sugar (optional)
a saucepan over medium heat until
Bake the pie for
the seeds loosen, about 5 minutes.
baking sheet beneath it, reduce the
Strain through a coarse sieve into a
oven temperature to 3 S O°F, and bake
bowl and discard the seeds. Add the
until thick juices bubble through the
skins to the pulp, then whisk in:
vents ,
% to
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter. cut into bits
25
to
35
easily from the pulp-they are often called slipskins-than those from abroad. Fox grapes, native
slip off the skins, reserving both
30
comparatively thicker skin that slips
minutes . Slip a
minutes longer. Let
cool completely on a rack. The pie can be stored at room temperature
from New England to Georgia to Indiana, are the principal American species. Foxes may be sweet bUl are usually astringent, with a spicy musky aroma and come
(0
a
favor that has
be described as "foxy."
Concords-the grapes of commer
cial jelly and purple juice-are a superlative example of fox grapes.
for up [Q 1 day.
F i l l i ngs with Frozen Fru it If you buy frozen fruits such as
must be measured by a special pro
flling into the crust at once, with
peaches, cherries, or berries, choose
cedure. Separate the pieces and
out the usual I S -minute standing
those thar are "individually frozen"
knock off clinging ice , but do not
time. If the fruit is al lowed to thaw,
or "dry-packed," meaning that they
thaw. Pour the fru i t into a 4-cup
it will release a flood
have been processed without sugar
measure, shake to settle it as much
make the crust soggy. Do not glaze
and come in lo ose pieces rather than
as possible, and measure 4 level
the top crust with sugar or egg.
a block.
cups. Measure out 1 more cup in a
Bake the pie at 400°F for 50 min
0I juice and
I -cup measure. Toss the still-frozen
utes; then slip a baking sheet
fresh fruit, substituting an equal
fruit with the other ingredients,
beneath it and bake at 3S0oF until
volume of frozen fruit. Since frozen
using the maximum amount of
thick juices bubble through the
fruit resists settling in dle cup, it
thickening called for, and spoon the
vents, 25 [Q 40 minutes more.
Follow any recipe calling for
ABOUT COVERED FRUIT PIES S I
Deep-Dish Fru it Pies Deep-dish pies are simply covered
pies with more
fruj( pies baked without a
choose a glass or ceramic casserole.
bottom crust. Despite their name, these pies shou ld be baked in dishes that are relatively wide and shallow rather than narrow and deep, so that there is enough crust in relation to fruit . The I O-inch Pyrex dishes made expressly for deep- di sh pies
they
lack the fared rim of ordinary
pie
pans-are serviceable for recip es
made with up
to 6 cups fruit For
Any
generous fillings.
fruit pie in
this chapter can
shape as, but a little wider than, the top of the dish, lay it over the filling , and tuck the edges against the inside
be baked as a deep-dish pie. Since
of the dish. Cut
the
top. If you wish, sprinkle the crust
filling need not be firm enough
to slice
deep-dish pies are served
ith a spoon-you
steam vents
in the
with sugar or glaze with an egg yolk
decrea se the
beaten with
1/8 teaspoon water. Set
thickening by up to half. For the top
the pie on a
baking sheet and
crust,
use a
can
hal f recipe
of any fl aky
bake
in the center of a preheated 3 7 5°F
pastry dough, 1 5 to I 7, or a full
oven
recipe of Flaky Cream Cheese Pastry
browned and j uices bubble through
Dough, I S . Roll
the vents, about 1 hour.
the dough
the same
until the crust is nicely
Deep D i sh Apple Pie with Cheddar Crust One 9-inch pie; 8 servings
Combine and
lOSS together:
'4 cup lightly packed grated
extra-sharp Cheddar cheese 'f, cup all-purpose four 6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into Y..-inch pieces
the mixture with a pastry blender to the consistency of coarse crumbs, then press tog ether with your fingers and knead in the bowl until a cohesive dough forms. Flatten the dough into a 4-inch disk, wrap in plastic, and refrig erate until Chop
firm but malleable, 30 to 60 min� utes. Flour the dough lightly, then roll into a 9-inch round between sheets of wax paper. Sl ip a rimless cookie sheet beneath the dough and refrigerate until frm, about
rack in the
IJi teaspoon salt VI teaspoon freshly grated or ground nuttneg V. teaspoon ground cinnamon V4 teaspoon grolUld cloves
30 minutes.
Position a
Strained juice of 1 large lemon % cup brandy (optional)
center of the
Boil over high heat,
stirring
occa�
oven. Preheat the oven to 3 7 S°F.
sionally, until the juices thicken to
Heat over high heat in a very wide skillet (not cast iron) until sizzling and fragrant: 6 tablespoons (% stick) unsalted
the consistency of maple syrup. Pour
butter
9-inch
pie pan.
the dough, then flip
the dough onto
the filling and peel off the bottom
sheet Let the dough soften slightly,
Add:
2 pounds
the mixture into a
Peel the top sheet of wax paper off
Golden Delicious, Gala,
then tuck
the edges inside the rim cut two 2�inch steam
Fuji, or Newton Pippin apples
of the pan and
(about 4 medium-large) peeled,
vents. Place the pie on a baking
cored, ad sliced Y.. inch thick
wooden spoon until the apples release their j uice and are ten� der, 5 to 7 minutes; reduce the heat if the apples begin to color. Stir in: 1 cup dark raisins (optional) � cup chopped walnuts or pecans
Toss with a
YI CUP sugar Grated zest of 1 large lemon
sheet
and bake until the crust is
gold en
brown and the f lling
is bub
bly, 30 to 40 minutes. Let cool
slightly
before serving. The pie can
be made up to 1 2 hours ahead and warmed in a 3S0°F oven for I O ta 15 minutes Accompany with:
Vanil ice cream
Deep Dish Pear Pie with Cranberries and Apples One 1 0- to 1 2-inch pie; 8 to 1 0 servings 2 Y1.
Prepare:
dish pie pan, combine :
cups (8 ounces) cranberries, picked over 1 Yl cups sugar % cup all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon strained fresh lemon juice % teaspoon salt
3 Y1. pOWlds
Stir gently until well blended. If you
%. recipe Flaky Pastry Dough, 15
or
Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry Dough, 1 7 Position
a
rack i n the center o f the
oven. Preheat the oven to 3 7 5°F. In a 1 0 to 1 2 -inch ( 2 VI quart) deep
firm ripe pears (about 7 large), peeled, cored, and cut into %-inch-thick slices I y, pounds firm tart apples (about 3 large). peeled, cored, and cut into Ys-inch-thick slices
in the edges. Cut 3 or 4 steam vents in the crust. Brush the top with: 2
tablespoons beaten egg (y, large)
Place the pie on
a
baking sheet and
bake until the crust is golden brown and juices bubble through the vents, about 1 hour. Let cool on a rack. The pie can be stored at room tempera
wish, dot the top with:
ture for up to 1 day. Serve warm or
2
at room temperature with:
to 4 tablespoons Wlsalted butter, cut into small pieces
Vanilla ice cream
Roll the dough to f t the top of the dish, lay it over the f lling, and tuck
ABOUT COVERED FRUIT PIES S 3
S4 PIES & TARTS
M i nce Pie Mince pie dates back to medieval
chopped meat, usually beef but
English baking and came to America
sometimes veal or venison
with the f rst settlers. Until the late
the name. In our grandmother's
nineteendl century, Americans
meatless mince pies were still
sidered it
con
the choicest of all pies
CINNAMON
hence
day, the
True cinnamon is the bark of a tree
exception rather than the norm, bur
tremely mild Most of the cinnamon
that fourishes in Ceylon It is
ex
an obligatory dessert at Thanksgiving
most contemporary versions do not
on me market is really cassia, a
and Christmas Originally, the central
contain
much less delicately flavored relative.
ingredient was
meat.
minced or finely
M i n ce Pie One 9-inch pie; 8 servings
A
handsome pie with a delicious
flavor
quite unlike that of commercial mince meats. Before beginning please read
to 35.
the material on pages 34
15,
Flaky Pastry Dough,
Hard Sauce About 212 cups; 16 servings
groWld nuuneg
Y. teaspoon ground cloves
Prepare :
Floky Pastry Dough,
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon Y2 teaspoon freshly grated or
or Deluxe Butter
17
Roll half the dough into a 1 3 -inch
Bring to a boil over high hear.
When spooned onto the hot pie,
Reduce the heat (Q low and gently
port of the sauce melts, bathing the
simmer, stirring frequently, until
mincemeat in a warm, buttery glaze,
bottom of the pot is almost
while the rest remains a delightfully
the dry and
round, f t it into a 9-inch pie pan,
the fruits are glazed with a thick,
cool and creamy (roth, like whipped
and trim the overhanging dough to
molasses-like syrup,
cream
% inch all around. Refrigerate. Roll
utes. Let cool to room temperature.
Combine in a large
the other half into a
Position a
Y2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted
1 2-inch round
rack in
20
to 30 min
the center of the
for the top crust and refrigerate it.
oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
For a lattice top, see page 4 1 .
Pour the filling into the bottom
Combine i n a medium,
heavy
pot or
crust. Brush the overhanging
edge
saucepan:
the bottom crust with cold water.
3 medium-large Golden Delicious
Cover with the top crust or lattice,
of
then
into 14-inch chllllks
or fute. If using a closed top crust,
1 Yt cups dark raisins,
coarsely
cup walnuts or pecans, coarsely
cut steam vents. Whisk together.
1 large egg yolk Va teaspoon water
chopped
Bake the pie for 30 minutes.
1 cup sugar
Vt cup apple juice or cider y. cup brandy or apple juice
4 tablespoons (IS. stick)
the edge, trim, and crimp
then brush the top of the pie with:
chopped
1
butter, softened but cool
3 cups powdered sugar, sifted if
apples, peeled, cored, and cut
seal
unsalted
bowl:
lumpy 2 teaspoons vanilla
Y2 teaspoon freshly grated or ground nutmeg Beat on high speed u ntil light and fluffy but st ll thick enough to hold a firm shape, 6 to 10 minutes St ll beating, very slowly add:
� cup brandy, Cognac, dark rum, or fresh orange juice
Reduce the oven temperature to 3SQoF and bake until the crust is richly browned,
wish to add:
30 to 40 minutes more. Let cool
Grated zest of I orange
Especially if you have opted for a nonalcoholic sauce, you may also
completely on a rack, then refriger
Use at once or cover tightly and
Grated zest of � lemon
ate for up to I week. Before serving,
refrigerate for up to 3 days. Soften
Strained juice of � lemon
warm
the cold sauce at room tempera
1 1
tablespoon cider vinegar
about 20 minutes. Serve with:
teaspoon salt
Hard Sauce, right, or vanilla ice cream
butter
the pie in
a 30QoF oven for
ture unt l spreadabl e.
ABOUT COVERED FRUIT PIES S S
ABOUT SI N G LE-CRUST FRUIT PI ES & TARTS I
f you have little experience In baking pies, try your hand at a single
crust pie or tort. Unlike covered fruit pies, which must be mode from
a rolled, flaky pastry dough, open fruit pies con be mode with a sim pler pat in the pan dough. Unless the fruit will be obscured by streusel, arrange it on the dough with as much core and precision as your patience and time allow. The result will be a pie or tort that begUiles the eye as well as the palate.
Torte Totin.
64
Fresh Fru it Pastry Cream Tart One 9 v,-
or
I Q-lOch tart; 8 servings
A (resh fruit postry cream tart consIsts
3
tablespoons currant, raspberry,
medium heat until the custard is
of uncooked bernes or thinly sliced (ruit
or strawberry jelly, melted, or
art(ully arranged over a thin layer o( pastry creom in a tort crust Almost any berries and (ruits will do, including rasp
1
Refrigerate the shell for 1 0 minutes
spatula , scrape the custard into
berries, strawberries. blueberries, plums,
to set the glaze or butter.
clean bowl. If you have not used the
peaches, nectarines, kJwis. and star
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, beat
vanilla bean, stir in:
(rUits. Avoid only veryJuicy (ruits
such as
me/on, hard or crisp (ruits such os apples and pears, and bananas, which blacken You can bake the crust and prepare the pastry cream up to 2 days in advance, but do not assemble the tart until shortly before serving lest the crust soften and the (ruit Wilt
tablespoon unsalted butter,
thickened and begins to bubble. Then continue to cook. whisking, for 45 to 60 seconds. Using a clean
softened
a
on high speed until thick and pale
V2. teaspoon vanilla
yellow, about 2 minutes:
Cover the surface of the custard with
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons
a piece of wax or parchment paper to prevent
sugar
1 1
tablespoon all-purpose floW" tablespoon cornstarch
a skin from forming. Let
cool, then refrigerate for at least
1 hour before using.
2 large egg yolks
Spread the pastry cream evenly over
Meanwhile, combine in a medium
the crust and arrange over the cream
Both �aky pastry and shortbread crusts
stainless-steel or enamel saucepan
in a Single layer:
are suitable. I( you prefer the
and bring to
2 cups whole small berries. sliced
make the crust with
Deluxe
Flaky Pastry Dough, 1 7,
(ormer. Butter
or Sweet
a.
simmer:
Y2 cup plus 2 % tablespoons ntilk y, vanilla bean, split (optional)
strawberries. or thinly sliced fruit
Flaky Pastry Dough, 1 7.
Fish out the vanilla bean if you used
If you wish, brush the f uit lightly
Prepare in a 9Yl- or 1 O-inch two
it. Gradually pour about one-third of
with:
piece tart pan, glazing with the egg
the hot milk into the egg mixture,
2 to 3 tablespoons jelly, mel ted
yolk:
stirring to combine. Scrape the egg
Otherwise, just before serving. dust
Baked Flaky Pastry Crust, 22, or Shortbread Crust, 28
mixture back into the pan and cook,
the tart very lightly with:
Let cool completely. To moisture-proof
the bottom and corners of the
the crust, brush over the bottom:
to prevent scorching, over low to
whisking constantly and scraping
pan
Powdered sugar
If not serving immediately. store in the refrigeramr for no longer than 6 hours
FRESH FRUIT CREAM TARTLETS
Prepare Fresh
Fruit Pastry Cream Tart above, substituting Baked Flaky Pastry TanJet Crusts, 23. for the large tart shell. Depend ng on the
exact size and shape of your tart let shells. you may need sl ightly more or less glaze, pastry cream, and fruit. Sliced fruit that fits the tartlet shell in
a
single layer pin
wheel. such as peaches. makes an especially effective presentation.
58 PIES & TARTS
ABOUT SINGLE CRUST FRUIT PIES & TARTS 59
Fresh Strawberry Pie One 9-inch pie; 8 servings One of Americo's most popular desserts, this pie is {illed wi th uncooked straw berries bound together with a thickened berry puree. This is only as good as the bernes you start with. Red or block raspberries con also be used. Prepare in a 9 inch pie pan:
Baked Flaky Pastry Crust, Pan Butter Crust,
26,
22, Pal-in-the
or Crumb Crust,
30, made with graham crackers
not rinse the raspberries. Measure
Bring the mixture to a simmer over
4 cups of berries and set aside. Puree
medium high heat, stirring con
me remaining 2 cups berries in a
stantly, and cook for 1 minute. Pour
blender or food processor. Whisk
half of the reserved berries into the
together in a medium saucepan:
crust and spoon half of the hot
1
cup sugar
berry mixture over them. Gently
1,4 cup cornstarch
shake the pie pan to coat the berries
Ys teaspoon salt
evenly. Cover with the remaining
Whisk in:
berries, spoon the remaining hot
Yt cup water
berry mixture over them, and gently
Stir in the pureed berries along
shake the pan as before. Refrigerate
Pick over:
with:
the pie for at least 4 hours to set.
6 cups strawberries or red or black
2
This pie is best served the day it is
or vanilla wafers
tablespoons strained fresh lemon juice
raspberries Rinse, dry, and hull the strawberries;
2
made. Serve with:
tablespoons unsalted butter, cut
Whipped Cream, 76
into small pieces
cut any very large ones in half. Do
Apricot Frangi pane Tart One 9Yi-
or
/ O-inch tart; 8
servings
Fresh apricots make Q spectacular tort {illing, especially when paired with a rich almond custard. Prepare in a 9'1z- or l O - inch two piece tart pan, glazing with the egg
yolk :
Baked Flaky Prutry Crust, Shortbread Crust,
22, or
28
Let cool completely. Position a rack in the lower third of
the oven. Preheat the oven to
3 5 0°F
Spread on a baking sheet:
1
cup slivered blanched almonds
Toast the nuts, stirring once or
twice, until golden, about 7 min utes. Let cool to room temperature,
Beat in thoroughly :
then coarsely chop. In a medium
1
bowl, cream with the back of a
Stir in the nuts. Spread the mixture
wooden spoon until light and fuffy :
4 tablespoons
(\'. stick) unsalted
butter, softened
ping the slices slightly. Brush with:
large egg. at room temperatuxe
2
to 3 tablespoons strained warmed apricot jam
over the bottom of the tart crust. Pit
Bake the tart until the nut custard is
and slice % inch thick:
set,
4 large or 6 medium apricots
rack. Serve slightly warm or at room
20
to 2 5 minutes. Let cool on a
y, cup sugar
Arrange the apricots in concentric
temperature. Store refrigerated for
y. teaspoon almond extract
circles over the nut mixture, overlap -
up 10 I day
ABOUT SINGLE CRUST FRUIT PIES & TARTS 6 1
Pear Streusel Tart One 91:2- or I O-inch tort:
8 servings
Prepare in a 9 1/2_ or I O -inch tart
Measure 3 cups pears and toss with:
pan, glazing with the egg yolk:
1) cup sugar
Baked Flaky Pastry Crust, 22, or Pat-in-
2
tablespoons all-purpose four
Distribute the pear mixture in the
tbe-Pan Butter Crust, 26 Let cool completely.
tart crust. Cover evenly with:
Position a rack in the center of the
Streusel, below
oven. Preheat the oven to 35 DOE
Bake the tart until the pears feel ten
Peel, core, and slice 1/4 inch thick:
der when pierced with a fork, 40 to
1 Yz pounds f rm ripe pears
(about
5 D minutes Let cool completely on
3 medium-large), preferably
a rack. Serve the tart on the day it is
Bose or Anjon
made (opposite) .
Raspberry Streusel Tart PEARS European pears-fragile when ripe but sturdy while green-are the
One 91:2- or I O-inch tort; 8 servings You con make this tort with any sum mer berry or with a mixture of berries.
ideal growers' fruit, since the pears
Prepare in a 9 1/2_ or I O-inch two
must fipen off the tree On the
piece tart pan, glazing with the egg yolk:
Baked Flaky Pastry Cmst,
ural peak season is August through ripe pears at the market. A pear is ripe when it smells like a pear and gives to gentle pressure applied at the stem end Because some pears will rot before they ripen, it is "vise to select the ripest pears avail
tablespoons cornstarch tablespoon strained fresh lemon juice
Distribute the raspberry mixture evenly in the tart crust. Sprinkle over
tree, the fruit (Urns mealy Pears are available year-round, but their nat Oelober. Sometimes you wiD fnd
2 1
22,
or
Shortbread Crust, 28
the berries:
Streusel, below
Let cool completely.
Bake the tart until the streusel has
Position a rack in the center of the
browned and thick juices bubble up
oven. Preheat the oven to 35 OOE
near the center,
Stir together just until combined:
Let cool completely on a rack Serve
3 cups raspberries
the tart the day it is made.
45
to 60 minutes.
Yi cup sugar
able. Examine pears carefully [or bruises. Superf cial scrapes and blemishes are not important, but avoid pears with dark or soft spots or any shriveling. For the most part
Streusel
(Anjou is an exception) , yellow
About 2 cups
pears deepen from green to yellow fork or pulse in a food
as they ripen, but red pears are red
Blend with
before they are ripe. Bartlett,
processor unt l the
Comice, Concorde, and Seckel will
coarse
a
mixture
resembles
crumbs·
ripen to melting softness, but serve
Y3 cup all-purpose flour
Anjou, Bose, and Red Clapp's
.Y3 cup finely chopped walnuts or
Favorite, and cook Winter Nellis, while slightly crisp.
62 PIES & TARTS
pecans
73 cup sugar or packed light brown sugar, or a combination
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
I teaspoon ground cinnamon
\4 teaspoon salt
Tarte Tati n 8 servings This classic French upside-<Jown apple
round , slip a rimless cookie sheet
tart is named for the Tarin sisters, who
beneath it, and refrigerate.
point of a paring knife, and fip
served it ot their hotel in the Loire
Position a rack in the upper third of
them onto their uncooked sides.
spear the apples with a fork or the
Volley. The apples are cut in quarters
the oven . Preheat the oven to 37 Sop.
Return the skillet to high heat and
ond arranged in circles over the bottom
Peel, core, and quarter lengthwise:
boil 5 minutes more. Remove the
of a cost-iron skillet containing sugar
6 medium-large Golden Delicious
and melted butter The apples are
apples (about 3 pounds)
skillet from the heat and slide the prepared crust onto the apples.
cooked on the stove over high heat
Melt in the skillet chosen for the tart
Being careful not to burn your
until theirjuices begin to darken and
(see note, left) :
gers, gently tuck the edges of the
then covered with 0 pastry crust ond
8 tablespoons
baked. When the tart is turned out of
( 1 stick) unsalted
butter
fin
dough against the inner sides of the skillet.
skille< the crust becomes a bose for dazzling concentric circles of translu
Remove from the heat and sprinkle
Bake the tart until the crust is richly
evenly over the bottom:
browned, 25 to 3 5 minutes. Let cool
cen< caramelized apples. Prepare torte
1 cup sugar
on a rack for 20 minutes, then loosen
Tatin in any ovenproof, deep, heavy skil let measuring 7 to 8 inches across the
Arrange a ring of apple quarters
the sides with a knife and invert the
the
against the sides of the pan, standing
tart omo a serving plate that can
the apples on the thin edge of their
withstand heat. Return any apples
top. The filling does not react with cast iron, but you may find a cost-iron skillet
cut side so
that stick to the skillet to their prop
ble. Fill in the center of the skillet
er place on top of the tart. Serve
cumbersome and heavy to flip when
with the remaining apple quarters.
immediately or let stand at room
unmalding the tart Pons mode specially (or torte Tatin are available at some
You may have a piece or two of
temperature for up to 8 hours.
apple left over.
When ready to serve, warm the tart
bottom and
I 0 to
I I inches across the
as
to fit as many as possi
cookware stores.
Place the skillet over the highest
to tepid in an oven heated at the
Prepare:
possible heat and cook until the
lowest setting. Accompany with:
juices turn from butterscotch to
Sour CreurnWhipped Topping, below,
%. recipe Deluxe Burrer Flaky
Pasoy
Dough, 1 7 Roll the dough into a 1 2 -inch
deep amber, 1 0 to 1 2 minutes.
creme fraiche. or vanilla ice
Remove the skillet from the heat,
cream
Sour Cream Whipped Topping About 2 ¥1 cups; 8 to 1 2 servings A tangy topping that is lovely with a warm
apple
or
pear tort
Comb ne in a medium bowl: I cup cold heavy cream
Y2
cup cold sour cream
Beat on high speed unt l 50ft but def nite peaks form. Do not
attempt to whip unti l stiff Use at once, or cover and refrigerate for
up to I day
64 PIES & TARTS
Open Faced Peach Custard Pie One 9-inch pie; 8 servings A JOY classic.
3
to 4 fresh peaches. peeled and
Prepare in a 9-inch pie pan, glazing
halved, or 6 to 8 drained canned
PEELING PEACHES
with the egg yolk:
peach halves
To peel
Baked Flaky Pastry Crust,
22
Pour t he egg mixture over the
Position a rack in the lower third of
peaches Bake the pie for 1 0 min
the oven. Preheat the oven to 40Q°F.
utes. Reduce the oven temperature
Whisk together until well blended:
1 large egg or
2
large egg yolks
to 30QoF and bake until the custard is brown and crusty on top and
% cup sugar
appears firmly set in the center
6 tablespoons (% stick) unsalted
when the pan is shaker:t, about
butter, melted
1 hour longer. Let cool on a rack.
a
peach, dip the fruit in
boiling water for 20 to 60 sec onds. depending on the size and density of the fruit, lift out and drop in cold water [0 cool, then slip off the skin Because peach fesh darkens when exposed to
air. peel a peach at the last min ute or, to prevent browning: Sprinkle any citrus juice over
Yl cup all-purpose four
Serve warm or at room temperature.
the ±ruit and gently toss to coaL
1 teaspoon vanilla
The pie can be stored refrigerated
all surfaces; or drop the fruit
V. teaspoon salt
for up to 1 day. If you \'Ilish, accom
in a bowl of water acidulated
Arrange in a single layer, cut side
pany with:
with lemon juice
down, over the bottom of the crust:
Whipped Cream,
76
ABOUT SINGLE CRUST FRUIT PIES & TARTS 65
Li nzertorte One 9 !0.-inch tone; 8 to 10 servings 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
wax paper. Remove the top sheet of
y. teaspoon ground cloves
plastic or paper and cut the dough
v. teaspoon salt
into 8 to 1 2 strips of equal width. If
Named ofter the Austrian town of Linz, the troditionol linzertorte is 0 lattice-top tort made with 0 rich and crumbly nut crust and (riled with raspberry or cur rant jam. Other jams, preserves, and marmolodes con be substituted, as con fruit butters. Linzertorte actually Improves In rovor (or 2 to 3 doys otter baking Qnd keeps (or ot leost I week
Mix on low speed with an electric
thick. Carefully arran ge half of the
Position a rack in the center of the
mixer or cream with the back of a
dough strips on the tart at equal dis
wooden spoon until a smooth dough
tance from each other; pinch the
oven. Preheat the oven to
3S Q°F.
Add;
the strips are too soft to handle,
1 0 tablespoons (1 V. sticks)
refrigerate or freeze them until f rm. Spread evenly over the crust:
unsalted butter, softened
2 large egg yolks
1 % cups raspberry jam
Grated zest of I medium lemon
The layer should be about V. inch
Spread on a baking sheet:
forms. Press the dough into a thick,
ends onto the crust. Arrange the
% cup slivered blanched ahnonds
f at disk, wrap in plastic, and refrig
remaining strips on top at right
or whole hazelnuts
Toast in the oven, stirring occasion
erate for at least 2 hours or up to
angles to those beneath, forming a
2 days.
crisscross lattice If the strips break
ally, until golden, S to 7 minutes. If
Position a rack in the center of the
using hazelnuts with skins, rub the
oven. Preheat the oven to
nuts a handful a time in a thick
Have ready a two-piece 9 Y2- or
during handling, simply piece them together; they will fuse during bak
3 5 0°F.
ing. Bake until the lattice is golden to 45 minutes. Let cool
towel to remove as much of the
l O -inch tart pan.
brown,
skins as possible. Turn off the oven.
Let the dough vvarm at room tem
completely on a rack Remove the
Let the nuts cool completely, then
perature umil malleable but f rm,
side of tbe pan, leaving the bottom
fnely grind in a blender or food
3 0 minutes to 1 hour. Set aside one
in place beneath the torre. Wrap air
40
processor. Remove to a large bowl
quarter of the dough for the lattice.
tight and store in the refrigerator
and whisk in thoroughly :
With your hands , press the remaining
for up to 1 week or freeze for up to
IV! cups all-purpose four
dough evenly over the bottom and
1 month. Let warm to room temper
v� cup powdered sugar
sides of the tart pan. Roll the remain
ature before serving mit Schlag, that
I tablespoon unsweetened cocoa
ing dough into a l a-inch square
is, with:
between 2 sheets of plastic 'wrap or
Whipped Cream, 76
(optional)
ABOUT SINGLE CRUST FRUIT PIES & TARTS 67
Galettes cream. Most gal ettes, however, are
crust over the filling to catch drips;
consists of a f at crust of pastry or
more simply made and rustic in look.
otherwise, simply double up the
bread dough covered with sugar,
They are, in effect, dessert pizzas.
crust edge, then crimp or flute if
A galette
or in Italian, a CfQstatu
pastry cream, or a thin layer of fruit.
Since galettes are baked on a f at
you wish. The redpes that follow
The famed French Golette des Rois, or
baking sheer rather than in a pie or
convey the basic technique. Use
Twelfth Night cake, is made with
tart mold, they may be made in any
them to create your own varia
puff pastry. Sometimes it is baked
shape, such as a square, rectangle. or
tions, remembering that the galette
with an elaborately decorated top
circle, that appeals to you. If the fll
or Clostala topping should be spare
crust and flled with a rich almond
ing is juicy, bring the edge of the
so as not to overvvhelm the crust.
This is a bit like a P'ZZO, with thinly
the oven. Preheat the oven to 425°F.
Brush a thin coat of butter over the
sliced apples on a
On a sheet of parchment paper or
pastry, reserving the rest. Sprinkle
aluminum foil, roll the dough into
the pastry with:
App l e Galette 8 servings
buttery crust Please
read the note for Apple Pie other suitable pie apples.
I, 38, for
an
1 1 - to 1 2 -inch round Pick up
1 tablespoon sugar
Prepare:
the edges of the paper and transfer
Peel, core, and slice 'Is inch thick:
Y1. recipe Deluxe Buner Flaky Pastry
with the dough to a baking sheet.
2 large firm apples, such as Golden
Dough, 1 7 Position a rack i n the lower third of
Delicious
Melt and cool to lukewarm:
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
Leaving bare a I -inch border at the edge, arrange the apple slices in slightly overlapping concentric rings on the pastry Fold the border of dough over the edge of the apples. Brush or drizzle all but about 2 teaspoons of the remaining melted butter over the apples. Combine, then sprinkle over the apples:
3
tablespoons sugar
Vi teaspoon ground cinnamon Bake until the pasrry begins to color, 1 5 to 20 minmes. Reduce the oven temperature to 3 5 0°F and bake unti] the pastry is golden brown and sounds crisp when poked with a skewer, 2 0 to 30 minutes more. Set the pan on a rack, brush the apples with (he remaining butter, and let cool. Serve warm or at room temperature. The galette is best served the day it is made.
68 PIES & TARTS
Fru it Crostata 8
servings
In Italy, chenshed recipes (or this favorite rusuc tort ore handed down from generation to generation. This reCipe colis (or a pat-in-the-pon short bread crust instead o( the typicol flaky pastry crust. Use ripe frUit picked at the peak of the season.
to 3 7 5°F
4 medium plums or
Lightly f our the dough, then roll it into an I I -inch round between 2 sheets of parchment paper (avail
2
peeled
medium peaches, pitted and cut into 'h-inch pieces
VI cup raspberries or blueberries
able at kitchen supply stores) . Peel
(optional)
off the top sheet of paper Lift the
2
dough on the bottom sheet of paper
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon
Prepare [he dough for:
onto a large baking sheet. Leaving
Shortbread Crust. 28
bare a I -inch border at the edge,
tablespoons sugar all-purpose flour
Distribute the fruit mixture over the
Refrigerate the dough until f rm
spread evenly over the crust:
jam. Bake the crosrata until the crust
but malleable, like modeling clay.
Y. cup raspberry or other jam
is golden brow and the fruit juices
Position a rack in .the lower third of the oven. Preheat the oven
Fold over the border to form a rim.
have thickened, 25 to 35 minutes.
Toss together gently:
Let cool slightly before serving.
ABOUT SINGLE CRUST FRUIT PIES & TARTS 69
Yeasted French Galette 8 servings
lar to the Moravlon sugar coke of
unsalted butter, softened cup sugar 1 large egg Grated zest of 2 lemons
Pennsylvania Dutch baking. Yeasty,
Stir in the yeast mixture, then beat
remove the plastic wrap. Fold over
buttery, light and airy, this French
in:
the edge % inch to form a rim all
Each region of France has its own spe cial version of this rich, yeasted golette, which turns out to be surprisingly simi
dough onto the prepared baking
�
sheet and sprinkle lightly with sugar. Cover with plastic wrap and press into an 1 I -inch round. Carefully
galette (opposite, (ront) IS a cross
1 %-
around. Dot the top of the galette
betvveen coke and bread. Serve the
Vs
with:
cups all-purpose four teaspoon salt
go/ette os on informal dessert, or ot
Cover the bowl tightly vvith plastic
breakfast or brunch, or with teo or
wrap and let the dough stand in a
3
tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into '4-inch bits
coffee.
warm place for 3 hours. It will
Sprinkle with:
Stir together in a small bowl and let
become slightly spongy but it will
2
stand 1 0 minutes:
not rise
Refrigerate the galette for 1 0 min
Yl cup lukewarm water
Position a rack in the center of the
utes, then bake until golden brown,
tablespoons sugar
oven Preheat the oven to 450°F.
8 to 1 0 minutes. Let cool on a wire
In a medium bowl, cream with the
Butter a large baking sheet, sprinkle
rack Serve warm or at room tem
back of a spoon until smooth:
with sugar, and tilt in all directions
perature. The galette is best served
until evenly coated. Scrape the
the day it is made.
1
envelope active dry yeast
12
tablespoons (I II. sticks)
Half Covered Berry or Peach Galette 8 servings In making thiS golette (opposite, back).
1 % cups blueberries andlor
you roll the crust extra wide and then
raspberries, or thinly sliced peeled peaches
(old the edges over the (ruit, leaving the
BLUEBERRIES Blueberries are �weet \-vith enough
fruit exposed in the center. A cornmeal
Scatter evenly over the fruit
tang to make them interesting Blue
crust works well here.
2 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
on the outside and light green on
Fold the border of dough over the
bears Choose plump, sound berries
Prepare:
Y2 recipe Cornmeal
Flaky Pastry Dough, 1 7, or Y2 recipe Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry Dough, 1 7
Position a rack i n the lower third of
fruit, forming a pleated half cover, with rhe fruit exposed in the center.
the oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Light brush the dough with:
On a well-f oured work surface, roll
Milk
the dough into
Sprinkle with:
a
1 3 -inch round.
the inside, cultivated blueberries are much larger than their wild fore nicely covered with bloom, a whitish coating that preserves the moisture in blueberries and helps them keep longer than most other berries. As delicious as blueberries are raw, they are the perfect baking
Carefully sHde a rimless cookie sheet
1
beneath the dough, letting the edges
Bake the galette until golden brown,
of the dough overhang the sides
25 to 3S minutes. Let cool on a
Blueberries bod1 freeze and dry
of the sheet. Leaving bare a 2 - to
rack. Serve warm or at room tem
superbly and are good canned
3-inch border, arrange in the center
perature. The galette is best served
as well
of the dough:
the day it is made
to 2 teaspoons sugar
berry-from pies and pancakes
to muffins and cheesecake topping.
ABOUT SINGLE CRUST FRUIT PIES & TARTS 7 1
ABOUT CREAM PI ES
C
ream pies are simply prebaked crusts filled with easy to-make stove top cornstarch puddings. Once chilled, they are topped with
whimsical swirls of fluffy meringue or whipped cream
Ch iffo n, mousse, and ice cream pies all have feathe rwei gh t flflings that are poured into prebaked crusts and then chilled, just like cream pies. Chiffon pie is mode of a custard sauce stiffened with gelatin and lightene d with whipped egg whites. Mousse pies have airy, melt on the-tongue flflings. Ice cream p ies are the ultimate no fuss dessert Quick to assemble, they are guaranteed to bring smiles to the table. All of these pies are perfect for entertaining since they need time in the refrigerator (or freeze" for Ice cream pies) for their
fillings to set
Make them in advance and then spend time with your guests instead of in the kitchen.
Vanilla Cream Pie, 74
73
Fi l l i ngs for Cream Pies Cream pie filling is simply a corn
nor done, amylase, an enzyme in the
starch pudding made on top of the
egg yolks, will reaCt with the starch,
stove and enriched with egg yolks.
thinning out and discolorin g the fill
In order to avoid scorching. stir the
ing within 24 hours. The filling is
filling constantly as it cooks with a wooden spoon or healproof r ubber
also likely lO lhin our if allowed to
spatula, reaching all corners of the
crust, so spoon the filling into the
cool before being poured into the
saucepan. To prevent lumps, remove
crust immediately after cooking.
the flling from the
Contrary to popular belief, hot fill
heat as
it
approaches the simmer and begins
ing does not cause the crust to
to thicken, and whisk vigorously.
become soggy. The cream pies in
After whisking, relurn the flling to
this section can be made up to 1 day
{he heat, bring it to a full simmer,
ahead and refrigerated
and cook for 30 seconds . If this is
BANANA CREAM PIE To keep the bananas from browning, slice them just before riling the pie.
Prepare the crust and filling for slice 2 to 4 firm ripe bananas, en ough to measure I Yz to 2 cups. Spoon a third of the fi ll ing nto the pi e shell and scatter half of the bananas over the top. Cover with another th rd of the filling and then the rest of the bananas. Spread the remai n i ng filling over the top (opposite, back). Vanilla Cream Pie, left. Thinly
Van i l la Cream Pie
CHOCOLATE CREAM PIE
One 9-inch pie; 8 servings
old fashioned pie With a whipped
This not only is Q scrumptious pie
but a/so provides the three dossic variations, right
its own
bose
on for
We can never deCIde if we prefer this
saucepan with the spoon or spatula, and whisk until smooth. Return to the heat and, whisking constantly,
If topping the pie with meringue,
bring LO a simmer and cook for
posiLion a rack in the center of the
3 a seconds. Remove the pan from
oven and preheat the oven LO 3 2 5 °F.
the hea t and whisk in :
Prepare in a 9-inch pie pan:
2 to 3 tablespoons unsalted butter,
Baked Flaky Pastry Crust, 22, a pat-in the-pan crust, 26 to 29. or Crumb Crust, 30
1 tablespoon vanilla Spoon the filling into the prepared
Whisk in a medium, heavy saucepan
crust and press a sheet of plastiC
until well blended:
v·nap directly on the surface. If you
2A cup sugar
are covering the pie with meringue,
cut into small pieces
If. cup cornstarch
proceed at once to prepare :
if. teaspoon salt Gradually whisk in:
Saft Meringue Tapping, 3 1 Remove the plastic wrap and
2 Yl cups whole milk
[he meringue over the top of the pie,
Vigorously whisk in until the egg
anchoring it to the crust rim on all
cream
or a
meringue topping.
Whipped creom has the edge (or those who like to decorate the top with grated semisweet chaco/ate.
Prepare Vanilla Cream Pie, left but increase the s ugar to I cup and decrease the cornstarch to 3 table spoons. Finely chop 4 ounces unsweetened baking chocolate . add it with the butter. and stir until the
chocolate
melts.
COCONUT CREAM PIE Wonderful served with Caramel
Sauce Cockaigne, 83,
or Q chocolate
sauce.
spread
Spread
I
to I Y,
cups shredded
spoon or heatproof rubber spatula ,
for at least 3 hours to f rm the filling.
in a 9inch cake pan and toast, sti rri ng occasionally, in a 300°F oven until golden brown. 20 to 30 m i nutes Prepare Van lla Cream Pie, left, adding the coconu� to the filling along with the butter (opposite,
bring the mixrure to a bare sim mer
Shortly before serving, remove the
front).
over medium heat. Remove from the
plastic wrap and cover the pie with:
heat, scrape the corners of the
Whipped Cream, 76
yolks are completely blended and no
sides. Bake the pie for 20 Ini nu tes,
yellow streaks remain:
let cool completely on a rack, and
5 large egg yolks
then refrigerate. If not using
Stirring constantly with a wooden
meringue, simply refrigerate the pie
74 PIES & TARTS
a
sweetened dried coconut
Black Bottom Pie One / O-inch pie; 8 to / 0 servings A JOY classic first appearing in the 1 946 edition. this two-toned. whipped cream topped. chocolate and vanilla rum cream pie continues to please today. Before beginning. please read Egg Safety. 79.
Vigorously whisk in until no yellow
3 large egg whites
streaks remain :
Add;
Prepare and bake in a I O-inch pie
4 large egg yolks
y. teaspoon cream of tartar
pan;
Stirring constantly with a wooden
Continue to beat wuil soft peaks
spoon or heatproof rubber spatula,
form, then gradually beat in:
Crumb Crust, 30,
preferably made
4 teaspoons cornstarch
the custard i n the pan:
Gradually whisk in:
2 tablespoons dark rum
2 cups light cream, or 1 cup milk
2 teaspoons vanilla
and 1 cup heavy cream
Beat on medium speed until foamy:
bring the mixrure to a simmer over
Yl cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
Pour into a small cup:
medium heat and cook for 30 sec
Increase the speed to high and beat
with gingersnaps
y. cup cold water
onds. Remove from the heat.
Wltil the peaks are stiff and glossy.
Sprinkle over the top and let stand
Immediately stir I cup of the mixture
Using a large rubber spatula, gently
for 5 minutes:
into the chocolate. Add the softened
fold the egg whites into the custard
1 'lS. teaspoons p;. envelope) Wlfla
gelatin to the remaining mixture
mixnrre Spoon the filling over the
in the pan and stir for
chocolate mixture. Refrigerate for at
vored gelatin
30
seconds to
Place in a small bowl;
dissolve the gelatin. Vigorously stir
least 3 hours or up to 1 day. Shortly
6 ounces bittersweet or semisweet
the chocolate mixmre until smooth;
before serving. spread over the top
I
if the chocolale fails to melt com
of the pie:
cup semisweet chocolate chips
pletely, set the bottom of the bowl
chocolate, finely chopped, or
in
Whipped Cream, below
Whisk together thoroughly in a
very hot water. Spread the chocolate
If you wish. sprinkle with:
medium, heavy saucepan:
mixmre evenly over the bottom of
1 ounce bittersweet or semisweet
1jJ cup sugar
the pie crust and refrigerate. Stir into
chocolate, grated or shaved
Whipped Cream 2 to 2i1 cups In a ch lled bowl with chilled
beaters, beat until thickened: I cup cold heavy cream
If you Wish. add and beat to
the
desired consistency:
2 teaspoons to
2 tablespoons
sugar, I to 4 tablespoons sifted powdered sugar, or 2 teaspoons honey (optional)
Y2 teaspoon vanilla (optional) Use immediately or cover and refrigerate up to several hours.
76 PIES & TARTS
Lemon or Lime Chiffon Pie One 9-inch pie; 6 to 8 servings A chiffon pie is one whose fll/ing is based on a custard sauce stiffened with gelatin. The secret is a deft, gentle hand in folding the aerated egg whites in to the gelatin fil/ing. Tort and sprightly, this has long been Americo's favonte chiffon pie. Before begmning, please read Egg
heat over medium heat until the mixture begins to steam and coats the spoon or spatula fairly heavily
Do not allow to simmer, or it will become grainy. Immediately pour the mixture into a large bowl and refrigerate for 45 minutes to 1 hour,
Safety, opposite.
or until it forms ]j ttle mounds when
Prepare in a 9-inch pie pan:
dropped from a spoon. Be careful
Baked Flaky Pastry Crust, 22, a pat-in the-pan crust, 26 to 29, or Crumb
not to let the gelatin set coo firmly.
Crust, 30
Beat in a clean mixer bowl on medium speed until foamy:
Pour into a small , heavy saucepan:
4 large egg whites
Y. cup water
Add:
Sprinkle over the cop and let stand
%- teaspoon cream of tartar
for 5 minutes:
Continue to beat until the egg
1 envelope (2 � teaspoons)
whites form soft peaks ( I ) , then gradually beat in:
unflvored gelatin
Whisk in:
V2 cup sugar
VI cup water
Increase the speed co high and
Yz cup
strained fresh lemon or lime
beat until the peaks are stiff and glossy
juice 1 teaspoon grated lemon or lime
(2). Using a large rubber
sparula, genrly fold the egg whites
into the gelatin mixture
zest
(3) . Spo on
Yl cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
the flling into the crust, m oun ding
4 large egg yolks
it in the center, and refrigerale for
Stirring constantly with a wooden
at least 4 hours or up to 1 day.
spoon or heatproof rubber spatula,
SOAKING AND DISSOLVING G E L ATIN Gelatin dishes will develop a grany. rubbery skin and may
unless the gelat n
refuse to set
is handled in two
distinct steps. F rst, soak the
gelatin in a small amount of cold liquid for at least 5 mi nutes to allow the granules to soften an d swell; then dissolve the ge l ati n completely in hot liquid. If the mixture is tran sparent, you can
allowing the liquid to run off: The glaze on the spoon will be completely clear, without any sign of beading.
tell if the gelatin has dissolved simply
In the case of an opaque mixture, stir until t he spoon or spatu la seems to slip and slide over the bottom of the bowl or pot. As long as the gelatin is fully softened and your liquid is steam ing hot the gelatin is virtually guaranteed to melt after 30 seconds
by dipping in a metal spoon and
of gentle stirring
Chocolate M ousse Pie One I O-lnch pie: 1 0 servings In contrast to chiffon pies,
IS
If the
(riling
not stiffened with gelotin, coli it 0
2 tablespoons liquor, liqueur, coffee, or water
Increase the speed to high and beat until the peaks are stiff Using a
mousse Mousse pies soften quickly at
1 teaspoon vanilla if using water
room temperature and become impos
Set the bowl in the water bath and
of the egg whites into the chocolate
sible to slice neatly, so leave them in
stir until the chocolate is melted.
mixture to lighten it, then gently
the refrigerator until just before serving
Remove from the \vater and set
fold in the remaining whites. In
This pie has become on American
aside. Whisk together thoroughly in
another bowl, beat on medium�high
favorite. A plain chocolote mousse
a heatproo[ bowl:
speed until soft peaks form :
makes
3 large egg yolks
'h. cup cold heavy creaIIl
Q
soft, lush filling:
Q
chocolate
large rubber spatula, stir one�quarter
mousse with gelatm yields 0 slightly
3 tablespoons coffee or water
Gently but thoroughly fold the
stiffer filling thot holds its shope well
3 tablespoons sugar
cream into the chocolate mixture.
This dessert is mode with uncooked
Set the bowl in the \vater bath and,
Spread the f lling in the pie sheD.
eggs: see Egg Safety, below.
whisking constantly, heat the mixture
Refrigerate the pie for at least
Prepare and bake in a 1 0-incb pie pan:
until thick and puffy, like marshmal
3 hours to set the flling. Shortly
Crumb Crust, 30, made with
low sauce, and warm to the touch.
before serving, beat on medium
Remove from the water bath and
speed until thickened:
chocolate wafers
Let the crust cool completely.
whisk thoroughly into the melted
1 cup cold heavy creaIIl
Heat 1 inch water in a large skillet
chocolate. Let cool to room tempera
Add:
over low heat until bubbles form
ture. In a separate bowl, beat on
Y+ cup powdered sugar
along the bottom; adjust the heat
medium speed UTIlil foamy:
'h. teaspoon vanilla
to maintain the water at this temper
3 large egg whites, at room
Whip until stiff peaks form. Spread
ature. Combine in a large heatproof bO\\'I:
6
ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate. chopped
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
temperature
the whipped cream over the top of
Add and beat unlil soft peaks form:
the pie If you Wish, sprinkle with:
Y. teaspoon creaIIl of tartar
1
Gradually beat in: Y. cup sugar
EGG SAFETY
ounce bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, grated or shaved
Store refrigerated for up to 1 day.
CHOCOLATE MOUSSE PIE
The bacteria Salmonellll enteritidis,
immune system Buy refrigerated
\vhiCh can cause illness and even
eggs and get them to your Q\.vn
death, is occasionally found in raw
refrigerator as quickly as possible
eggs, even uncracked eggs While
Never use a doubtful egg When
the risk remains extren1ely low (it is
cracking or separating eggs, make
estimated that 1 in 1 0 ,000 eggs is
sure that the fresh egg never touches
infected, and even infected eggs
the exterior of the shell, which is
may not cause problems if properly
more apt to carry contamination.
stored and cooked) , we recommend
Before and after handling eggs,
handling eggs carefully, particularly
wash your hands and any utensils
when cooking for young children,
or equipment that may have come
the elderly, pregnant 'Nomen, or
into contact with either the shell
anyone with a compromised
or the contents
WITH GELATI N
Gelotin (rrms u p the (riling ond makes for neater slices.
Sprinkle I n teaspoons (73 enve lope) unflavored gelat n over 3 tablespoons cold coffee or water and let soak for at least 5 minutes. Prepare Chocolote Mousse Pie, above, substituting the gelatin mixture for the 3 table spoons plain coffee or water added to the egg yolks.
ABOUT CREAM PIES 79
Choco l ate Almond Candy Bar Pie One I O-inch pie; 1 0 servings A gooey chocolote mousse in a thick, crunchy crust mode (nom cream-filled chocolate sandwich cookies. Position a rack in the center of (he
24 large marshmallows
retaining as much air in the mixture
Chop into V. inch pieces:
as possible. (There may be a few
I
unblended bitS of marshmallow.)
pOWId milk chocolate candy bars with. almonds
Pour the filling into the
crUSt
and
oven . Preheat the oven (0 400°F.
Stirring willi a wooden spoon or
refrigerate for 4 hours . If not serving
the pi e at once, press a sheet of plas�
Lightly butter a 1 O-inch pie pan.
h eatproof rubber spatula, bring to
Place in a sturdy plastic bag:
a boil in a large saucepan over
tic wrap directly onto the surface
30 cream-f lled chocolate sand-
medium heat :
and refri gerate for up to 2 days .
1 cup heavy cream
Shortly before serving, beat on
Crush with a rolling pin to coarse
Se t asid e 3 table spoons of the
medium speed until thickened:
wich cookies Y4-inch pieces. Transfer to a mixing
cbopped chocolate bars for decorat
1 cup cold heavy cream
bowl and combine well with:
ing. Add the remaming to the boiling
Add:
6 tablespoons (% stick) WIsalted
cream and stir until the chocolate
y. cup powdered sugar
melts. Remove the pan from the heat ,
Yz teaspoon vanilla
Pat the mixture over the bottom and
stir in the marshmallows, tightly
Whip until stiff peaks form. Spread
sides of the pie pan. Bake for 7 min
cover, and let stand for 5 minmes .
the whipped cream over the top of
utes, then let cool completely on a
Very gently fold the softened marsh
the pie. Sprinkle with the reserved
rack. Tear or snip inco quarters:
mallows into the chocolate mixture ,
chopped chocolate bars (opposite) .
butter, melted
Peanut Butter Pie One I O-lnch pie; 8
to
10
servings
This may sound like kJds' stuff but t's not The filling is mousselike and surprsingly subde in flavor. and the chocolate gloze gives the pie a finished, elegant look.
Spread the mixture evenly in [h.e pie
Prepare and bake in a I O-inch pie pan:
Stirring, bring to a boil in a mediwn
Crumb Crust, 30, made with graham
saucepan over high heat:
crackers or chocolate wafers
crust. Press a sheet of plastic wrap
CREAM
directly on the surface and refriger�
Cream is made from the fat that
ate until f rm, about 4 hours .
l!J cup heavy cream
Beat on medium speed just until
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
smoothly blended :
Remove from the heat and inlmedi�
8 ounces cream cheese, softened
ate1y stir in until smooth:
J cup Chil or smooth peanut
4 ounces bittersweet or semisweet
butter
chocolate, fnely cbopped
rises to the surface of nonhomoge nized milk Sweet , or noncultured ,
creams are sold in pasteurized and ultrapasteurized forms. Heavy cream contains at least
36 percent milk fat and is the richest cream available in most stores It is often labled "whipping cream." It is normally used in
desserts. Light cream contains 3 0
3 6 percent butterfat. Use heavy
% cup sugar
Let cool to lukewarm, then pour the
(0
2 teaspoons vanilla
glaze over the top of the pie and
cream for whipping. It mounds
In a separate bowl, .beat on medium
spread evenly. If you wish, sprinkle
high speed until stiff peaks form:
with :
I cup cold heavy cream
Ih cup chopped salted peanuts
Using a large rubber spatula, fold
Refrigerate for a( least I hour or up
half of the whipped cream into the
to 3 days. Accompany with:
peanut butter mixture to lighten it,
Whipped Cream, 76
then fold in the remaining cream .
80 PIES & TARTS
eaSily and holds its shape well. It is used in all maImer of dessert
preparations. Before beginning (0 whip the cream, first chill the cream, bowl, and whisk or beaters to facilitate
the dlickening process.
Ice Cream Pies Pies filled 'with ice cream
or frozen
thoroughly before filling it, or the
to the point where it can eaSily be
yogurt, sherbet, or sorbet
are
ice cream will melt along the bot
packed into the shell, but do not let
quick and simple to assemble, and
tom, soaking inco the crust and fus
it liquefy, or it will turn coarse and
you can create as many differem
ing it to the pie pan It is essential to
icy when it refreezes. About 30 minutes before serving,
varieties as there are flavors of ice
use a premium brand of ice cream.
cream in your grocer 's freezer case.
Bargain brands are fluffed up with
allow the pie to soften slightly in the refrigerator. If, as often happens , the
Start with a Crumb Crust, 30, or
air and will def ate, losing as much
Meringue Pie Crust, 3 1 ; other crusts are
as half their volume, when softened
pie sticks to the pan when sliced,
favorless and rock hard when
and packed into th e shell. Let the ice
hold the bottom of the pan in a bowl
frozen. Freeze the baked pie shell
cream or other frozen product soften
of warm water for about 30 seconds.
Use this basic recipe as a starting point
pie and freeze until solid, at least 2
Decora(e with:
ond give your imagination
hours or up to 2 days. About 3 0
Crushed cookies, chopped candies,
Ice Cream Pie One / O-inch pie; 8 to I 0 servings
free rein.
Bake in a l O-inch pie pan:
minutes before serving, transfer the
Crumb Crust, 3D, or Meringue Pie
pie to the refrigerator to allow it to
Serve the pie with:
soften slightly. If you wish, use a
A chocolate sauce, a caramel sauce
Crust, 3 1
or toasted nuts (optional)
Let cool t o room temperature, then
pastry bag f tted with a larg e star
such as Caramel Sauce
freeze for at leas t I hour before fll
tip to pipe over the top of the pie :
(opposite),
ing. Meanwhile, let stand in the
Whipped Cream, 76
cooked fruit sauce
refrigerator until just soft enough to pack: 1 � to 2 quarts ice creaIIl, frozen yogurt, sherbet, or sorbet
If you wish, have ready: 1 to 1 %. cups crushed cream-filled chocolate sandwich cookies, chopped nougat-filled candy bars, or chocolate-covered peanut butter cups Working quickly, pack half of the ice cream into the shell with the back of a large spoon. If you afe using them, sprlnkle half of the crushed cookies or chopped candies over the top and press in firmly. Pack the remaining ice cream in rhe shell, mounding it in the center, then sprinkle with the rest of the cookies or candies and again press them in Smooth a sheet of plastic wrap on the surface of the
82 PIES & TARTS
Cockaigne
a fresh fruit sauce, or a
Caramel Sauce Cockaigne About I Y2 cups; 8 to I 0 servings
One of the most luxurious versions or caramel sauce. Place in a small, heavy saucepan: I cup sugar
Pour evenly over the top: � cup water
Place the pan over medium h gh heat and, without st rrng, sw rl the saucepan gently by the handle until the sugar is dissolved and the syrup is clear.Avoid letting the syrup boil unt l the sugar is completely d ssolved Increase the heat to high, cover the
saucepan tightly, and boil the syrup for 2 minutes. Uncover the saucepan and continue to boil the syrup until it begins to darken around the edges. Gently swirl the pan by the handle until the syrup turns a deep amber and begins to smoke. Remove from the heat and add carefully (the mixture will splatter): 8 tablespoons (I stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces
Gently mix until the butter is incorpo rated. Stir n:
Y2 cup heavy cream
If the sauce becomes lumpy, set the pan over low heat and stir until smooth.Turn of the heat and stir n: 2 teaspoons vanilla Pinch of salt
Serve warm or at room temperature. The sauce can be covered and refrig erated for up to I month; it w ll become solid. Reheat in a double boil er or n a heavy saucepan over very low heat, adding a bit of water if it is too thick
ABOUT CREAM PIES 81
ABOUT CUSTARD PI ES
C
ustard pies are what most people think of as quintessentially
American. There IS the traditional and deeply satisfying Custard
Pie, 86
composed of eggs, sugar and milk perfumed with vanilla
and nutmeg Then there are the Pumpkin and Sweet Potato Pies, 88
to 9 I , without which holiday tables at Thanksgiving would
be woefully incomplete. Pecan, Chess, and even the distantly related, not so {:ustardy Shoofly Pies, 93 to 95
longtime Southem favorites
round out the custard pie family. Custard pies are treasured for their sweet, creamy. smooth filling The trick to baking a custard pie with a perfect consistency the slightest trace of graininess
without
is actually quite Simple: Make
sure the prebaked pie crust is warm before pouring in the filling. If the crust is cool, slip it into a warm oven for severol minutes and then proceed.
Coconut Custard Pie, 86 85
Custard Pie filling from overcooking and turn
Lik e all custards, fllings for custard
make custard pie in a more conven
pies need w be baked at a relatively
tional way and stin get excellent
ing grainy around the edges. custard
low temperature to keep from
results. The uick is to have both the
pie must be removed from the oven
curdling, but lhe crust tends to
custard an d the crust hot wh en the
when the cemer is still quivery, like
become soggy unless the pie is
pie is assembled. This allows the cus
gelatin. The f lling will continue to
baked at a high heat . In our 1 9 7 5
tard to set quickly at the comfortably
cook on stored heat as the pie
edi tion w e suggested b aking the
low temperature it favors, and thus
stands and will th icken fur ther
custard and crust separately in 2 pie
the crust does not become soaked.
upon cooling. Because custard pie
pans of identical size
For this Lrick to work, you must use
is highly susceptible to spoilage ,
and
then slip
ping the filling into the shell just
a flaky pastry crust, fully baked and
refrigerate it as soon as it has cooled
before serving This sleight of-hand
carefully mOisture-proofed with egg
to room temperature. Serve th e pie
works surprisingly wetl, but we have
yolk ; pat-in-the-pan crusts tn evitably
within a day of baking, or the crust
since discovered that it is possible to
become sodden. To prevent the
will soften.
Custard Pie One 9-inch pie; 6 to 8 servings A thoroughly satisfYing pie that has changed little since its {lrst appearance
in American cookbooks nearly
two cen
Va teaspoon salt Stirring, bring to a simmer in a small
saucepan over medium heat:
cups whole milk
turies ago.
2
POSition a rack in the center of the
Gently whisking all the while, grad
CHOCOLATE-FROSTED CUSTARD PIE A
great favorite in our grandmother'S
day and overdue for a revival
oven. Preheat the oven to 325°F.
ually add the milk to the egg nlixture.
Prepare
Prepare in a 9-illCh pie pan, prefer
Immediately pour the hot custard into
the n utmeg: let cool to room tem
ably glass , glazing with the egg yolk:
the warmed crust. Dust the top with:
perature. Finely chop 3 ounces
% to 1 teaspoon freshly grated or
bittersweet or sem isweet chocolate.
Baked
Flaky Pastry Crust, 22
If rhe crust has cooled. warm it in the oven for up to 1 0 minutes while
ground nutmeg
Bake un til the center of the custard
you prepare the filling. Whisk
seems set but quivery, like gelatin,
together just umil blended:
when the pan is nudged, 25 to 3 5
3 large eggs
minutes. Let cool co mpletely o n a
2 to 3 large egg yolks
rack, then refrigerate for up [Q 1 day.
Yl cup sugar
Let warm to room temperature for
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 hour before serving.
Custard Pie, left, omitting
Bring YJ cup heavy cream and
2 tablespoons sugar to a boil in a small saucepan, stirring to dissolve the sugar: Remove from the heat, add the chocolate, and stir until melted Let cool slightly, then spread over the top of the pie. Refrigerate until the glaze sets. COCONUT CUSTARD PIE This classic pie has a
NUTMEG Nutmeg comes from the brown, oval seed of a fruit resembling an apricot,
ing Several weeks afrer harvest, when the kernel has shrunk in the seed shell,
the crust with
which grows on a tropical evergreen
the thin shell is cracked and th e kernel
tree. Wrapped around (he shell of
removed This is nutmeg-brown,
the seed is a lacy sheath-the spice
solid. and hard. Nunneg is a warm
mace-which is ground before pack-
spice besl when freshly graled.
86 PIES & TARTS
delicious, subtle
coconut ffavor Prepare Custard Pie, left sprinkling
I
to I y.; cups shred
ded sweetened dried coco nut or
finely shredded fresh coconut before pouring in the custard.
ABOUT CUSTARD PIES 87
Pum pki n , Sweet Potato, and Sq uash Pies Although these pies are made ",vith
cools. Eat d,e pie within a day of bak
cooked vegetable purees, sITucmrally
ing. or the crust will soften.
1 Yl. hours. Scrape our the flesh and
speaking they are acrually custard pies
Fresh Pumpkin: Jack o ' lantern
puree in a food processor. If tbe
bake at 325°F until very soft, about
and should be handled in a similar
pumpkins make poor pies; look for
puree seerns loose and wet, drain in
way. To set the flling quickly and thus
an eating variety, such as Small Sugar,
cheesecloth for 30 to 60 minutes, or
prevent a soggy crust, have the flling
at a spectalty market. You will need 5
until it reaches the same consistency
at room temperature and the crust
to 6 pounds pumpkin to make 4 cups
as the ca1U1ed kind.
warm. If the pie is overbaked, the fll
of puree, or enough for 2 pies. Split
FreshWinter Squash: Prepare fresh
ing will be coarse and watery around
the pumpkins into quarters, cur out
squash as for pumpkin , using
the edges, so remove the pie from
the stem, scrape out the pulp, and
dense, sweet v ariety such as butternut
a
firm,
the oven as soon as the center quivers
hack into 4-inch pieces. Place rind
or Hubbard. Squash is quite moist
like gelatin when the pan is nudged.
side down in an oiled roasting pan,
and requires thorough draining in
The pie will continue to set up as it
cover tightly witl1 alwninum foil, and
cheesecloth as directed for pumpkin.
1 % cups light cream or evaporated
filling stand at room temperature
Pum pki n Pie One 9-inch pie; 8 servings Use 3 eggs (or Q soft, (ustardy filling 2 (or Q firmer pie. Position a rack in the center of the
milk, or % cup nlilk and 1,4 cnp
in the meantime. Pour the pumpkin
heavy cream
mixture into the crust and bake until
oven. Preheat the oven to 37 Sop.
Yl. cnp sugar
the center of the flling seems set
Building up a high f uted rim, pre
II cup firmly packed light or dark
but quivery, like gelatin, when the
pare in a 9-inch pie pan, preferably
brown sugar
pan is nudged, 35 to 45 minutes.
glass, glazing with the egg yolk:
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
let cool completely on a rack, then
Baked Flaky Pastry Crust, 22, or Pat-in-
1 teaspoon ground ginger
refrigerate for up to 1 day. Serve
Yz teaspoon freshly grated or
cold, at room temperature, or
the-Pan Burrer Crust, 26 Whisk thoroughly i n a large bowl:
ground nutmeg
2 to 3 large eggs (see note)
y. teaspoon ground cloves or allspice
Whisk in thoroughly:
Y:t teaspoon salt
2 cups freshly cooked or canned
Warm the pie crust in the oven until
pumpkin puree
it is hOl to
slightly warmed. Accompany with:
Whipped Cream, 76, and/or Hot Brandy Sauce, below
the touch, letting the
Hot Brandy Sauce simmer. Cook until thickened,
Melt over low heat in a small, heavy
Va teaspoon salt
to
saucepan:
Cook. stirring, until the sugar is dis
about I minute. The sauce will not
8 tablespoons unsalted butter
solved and the mixtu re is blended
curdle. Serve at once, set aside at
Stir in, using a wooden spoon:
Remove from the heat.Whisk until
I cup sugar
light and frothy:
or let cool, then cover and refrigerate
for up to 3 days. Reh�at over low
a
room temperature for up to 8 hou rs,
Yo. cup brandy or Cognac
I large egg
2 tablespoons water
Vigorously whisk the egg nto the
heat stilTing; if the sauce separates,
If. teaspoon freshly grated or ground
liquor mixture. Set the sauce over
remove from the heat and whisk in a
medium heat and. stining gently, br ng
Irttle warm water.
nutmeg
88 PIES & TARTS
Sour Cream Pum pki n Pie One 9-inch pie; 8 servings A
tangy pe with 0 light, souffle/ ke texture (Opposite, (ront), Position a rack in the center of the oyen. Preheat the oven to 3 5 OaF. Building up a high futed rim, pre pare in a 9-inch pan, preferably glass, glazing with the egg yolk: Baked Flaky Pastry Crust,
22, or
Pat-in-
the-Pan Butter Crust, 2 6
teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground ginger Y2 teaspoon freshly grated or ground nutmeg Y4 teaspoon ground cloves or allspice % teaspoon salt 1
form, then gradually beat in:
Y2
14 cup sugar Increase the speed to high and beat until the peaks are stiff and glossy. Using a large rubber spatula, gently fold the egg whites into the pump kin mixture. Pour the flling into the
Whisking constantly, heat over
prepared crust. Bake until the top
medium heat until just v,rarm to the
has browned lightly and feels softly
I n a large, heavy saucepan, whisk
touch. Beat on medium speed until
set when touch ed, 40 to 50 min
together thoroughly:
foamy:
utes. Let cool completely on a rack.
1 Y2
3
cups freshly cooked or canned pumpkin puree 8 ounces (scant 1 cup) sour cream l,4 cup sugar 3 large egg yolks
large egg whites, at room temperature
At this point the pie can be refriger ated for up to 1 day. Let warm at
Add:
room temperature for 30 minutes
% teaspoon cream of tartar
before serving. Serve with:
Continue to beat until soft peaks
Whipped Cream, 76
Sweet Potato Pie One 9-inch pie; 8 servings A
moist and creamy version of this Southern (avorite (opposite, bock),
Whisk in the s\veet palata puree,
completely on a rack, then refriger
then whisk in:
ate for up to 1 day. Serve at room
Position a rack in the center of the
1
and steam in a basket over boiling
cup light cream or evaporated milk, or Y2 cup milk and % cup heavy cream 4 tablespoons (Y2 stick) unsalted butter, melted 4 teaspoons strained fresh lemon juice 1 % teaspoons vanilla 0/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon lf4 teaspoon freshly grated or ground nutmeg % teaspoon salt
water until very render, about 2 0
Warm the pie crust in the oven until
minutes Puree i n a food processor
it is hot to the touch. Pour in the
oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Building up a high f uted rim, pre pare in a 9-inch pie pan, preferably glass, glazing with the egg yolk: Baked Flaky Pastry Crust,
22, or Pat-in-
the-Pan Butter Crust, 2 6
Peel deeply, remOVi Jlg both skin and the pale, fbro us layer beneath it: 2
pounds sweet potatoes
Cut crosswise into I -inch chunks
or force through a f ne-mesh sieve
filling and bake for 20 minutes
with the back of a spoon. Measure
Reduce the oven temperature to
1 Y3 cups puree. Whisk together thor
3 2 5 °F and bake until the center of
temperature or warmed. Accompany with: Whipped Cream, 76
SWEET POTATO PUDDING
By baking a dish of custard in a larger of water--o water bath-the cook partiolly insulates the custard from the oven's heat and thereby protects t from overcooking pan
Double the recipe for Sweet Potato
Pie above
omitt ng the crust Pour
the filling nto a buttered shallow
2- to
3-quart baking d sh. Bake at
350°F n a larger baking pan filled halfway with hot water until fi rm
oughly in a medium bowl :
the flling seems set but quivery, like
in the center; 45 to 60 minutes
4 large eggs
gelatin, when the pan is nudged,
Serve with Hot Brandy Sauce. 88
VI cup sugar
about 20 minutes more. let cool
ABOUT CUSTARD PIES 9 1
92 PIES & TARTS
Pecan , Chess, and Shoofly Pies The flling of pecan pie i s actually a
by the time tile pie has cooled to
sort of custard composed of sugar,
room temperature.
butter, and eggs, and like all cus
pies, are highly heat sensitive, and the same precautions must be
Chess pies, now chiefly a South
observed when baking them.
tards, it will curdle and break if sub
ern specialty, are essentially pecan
jected to excessive heat. The tTick is
pies without the nuts. There are
to pull the pie from the oven as
countless varieties and much has
a distant relative of me pecan and
soon as the filling has thickened to a
been written about them but their
chess family. Because the f lling is
Shoof y pie, a famous dessert of Pennsylvania Dutch country, is
gelatin-like consistency in the center.
origins remain unknown . All are
thickened by a sort of streusel , it
Although soft coming out of the
rich and intensely sweet, approxj
more closely resembles cake than
oven, the tilling will f rm up nicely
mating candy. Chess pies, like pecan
custard and is not prone to curdling.
Stir in the toasted nuts. Warm tbe
or at room temperature with:
pie crust in the oven until it is hot
Whipped Cream, 76,
Pecan Pie One 9-inch pie; 8 servings Mode w'th white sugar and light corn syrup, the pecan pie has a mild, sweet, buttery �avor. For a dork pecan pie with a caramel-like caste, substitute light or dark brown sugar andlor dark corn syrup. Building up a high futed rim to hold all the filling, prepare in a 9-inch pie pan, preferably glass,
to the {Ouch, then immediately pour
or vanilla ice
creaIll The pie can be made up to 2 days
in the filling Bake until the edges are firm and the center seems set but
ahead Store in the refrigerator, but
quivery, like gelatin, when the pan is
let warm to room temperature or
nudged,
warm in a 27 SCF oven for 1 S min
3S
to 45 minutes. let cool
utes before serving.
on a rack for at least 1 V2 hours before slicing. Serve the pie warm
glazing with the egg yolk:
Baked Flaky Pastry Crust, 22, or Pat-inthe-Pan BUHer Crust, 26 Position a rack in the center of the
CHOCOLATE PECAN PIE
CHOCOLATE CHIP OR CHUNK
oven. Preheat the oven to 3 7 5 °F.
Chop 6 ou nces bittersweet or semi
PECAN PIE
Spread on a baking sheec:
sweet chocolate: met! in the top of a
2 cups pecans. coarsely chopped Toast the nutS in the oven . stirring occasionally, until golden and fragrant, 6 to 1 0 minutes. Whisk until blended: 3 large eggs 1 cup sugar 1 cup light corn syrup
5
tablespoons unsalted butter. melted
1 teaspoon vanilla or 1 tablespoon dark rum
double boiler over barely simmering water: or microwave on medium for I Yz to 2 mi nutes. Prepare Pecan Pie, above, decreasing the com syrup to
This pie is softer and lighter in texWre Pie but even richer. Prepare Pecan Pie, obove, decreasing
than Choc% te Pecan
the pecans to I cup and stirring in
IS: cup and the butter to I tablespoo n .
I cup chocolate chips or 2 ounces
Whisk one
each dark, milk, and white chocolate, cut i nto .!i.I �inch ch u nks, along with the nuts. Bake as directed
quarter of the fi lli n g into
the melted chocolate, then blend the resu lt into the remaining
filling. Stir
in
the nuts. Proceed as directed. Bake
Refrigerate the pie until cold and
until the edges of the pie
hard, then slice. Before serving, warm
puffed
the slices in a 275°F
are slightly and the center seems set but
still soft, 25 to 30 m nutes.
chocolate just
oven unt l the begins to soften,
Yi teaspoon salt
ABOUT CUSTARD PIES 93
Chess Pie One 9-inch pie; 8 servings Egg yolks give this filling a sparkling
Scatter over the top:
when the pan is nudged, 2 5 to 40
trunslucency and a smooth, soft and
6 tablespoons (I stick) unsalted
minutes. Remove the pie from the
melting texture.
butter. cut into small pieces
oven, increase the oven temperature
Bring 1 inch of water to a simmer in
to 3 2 5 °F, and proceed at once to
a skillet. Set tbe bowl in the skillet
f nish the meringue. Spread a band
Baked Flaky Pastry Crust, 2 Z
and gently whisk the mixture umil
of meringue around the edges of the
Position a rack i n the center o f the
shiny and warm to the touch. Stif in:
pie, where the filling is f rmest,
oven. Preheat the oven to 2 7 5 ° F.
Yi to 0/. cup chopped walnuts or
anchoring the meringue to the crust
Prepare in a 9-inch pie pan, glazing with
the egg
yolk:
Warm the pie crust in the oven while you prepare the flling. Whisk
pecans, toasted (optional)
at all points. Drop the remaining
Pour (he filling into the crust. You
meringue in dollops over the center
in a heatproof bowl just until no
now have two options. For a pie
of the flling and gently spread it to
yellow streaks remain:
vvithout meringue, bake until the
make a smooth, cohesive topping.
edges are firm and the center looks
Return the meringue-topped pie (Q
I
large egg
4 large egg yolks
set but quivery, like gelatin , when
the oven and bake for 20 minutes.
% cup sugar
the pan is gently nudged, 50 to 65
Let cool completely on a rack before
y, cup firmly packed light browu
minutes. For a pie with a meringue,
slicing. Store the pie in the refrigera
as soon as the pie goes into tbe oven,
[Or for up (Q 3 days but bring it to room temperature before serving. If
sugar
Yi teaspoon salt
measure out all the ingredients (and
Whisk in:
prepare the cornstarch paste) for:
you have not topped the pie with
% cup light creanl or evaporated
Soft Meringue Topping, 3 J
meringue, you may wish to accom
milk, or 'h cup milk and % cup
Bake the pj e
pany it with:
heavy cream
resembles corn syrup in consistency
just until the center
Whipped Cream, 76
BUTTERMILK CHESS PIE To some Southerners, this is the only
true chess pie.
Prepare Chess Pie, above, substituting
7'3 cup additional granulated sugar for the brown sugar and 7'3 cup butter milk for the light cream. Stir Y2 cup each chopped raisins and chopped
pecans or walnuts into the filling.
evaporated milk. Omit the nuts, or stir in Y2 cup shredded sweetened dried
coconut. Decrease the bak ng time to
25 to 40 minutes If using a meringue, apply it after 10 to 1 5 minutes' baking. JEFF DAVIS PIE This is a spicy, fruited chess pie, usually topped with a
LEMON CHESS PIE Lemon Chess Pie
94 PIES & TARTS
meringue.
Prepare Chess Pie, above, adding
(tiling tastes very much
/'2 teaspoon ground ci nnamon, Y:;. tea
like lemon curd.
spoon freshly grated or ground nut
Prepare Chess Pie, above, but substi
meg, and )Ii teaspoon ground cloves
tute Yo cup additional granu lated sugar
to the egg mixture. Stir into the
for the brown sugar; the grated zest of
fi ling Y2 cup each chopped dates,
1 lemon for the salt. and 1) cup
chopped raisins, and chopped toasted
heavy
cream plus 1) cu p strained fresh
pecans or wal nuts in place of the
lemon juice for the light cream or
optional nuts.
Shoofly Pie One
9-lnch pie; 8 servings
are both "dry-bottom" and "wet bottom" versions of this Pennsylvania
% cup frmly packed dark brown
Dutch specialty. The (armer are almost
5
There
like soft gingerbread in
a crus, while
Sti[ half of the crumb mixture into the molasses mixture and pour into
sugar tablespoons unsalted butter,
the prepared crust. Sprinkle the remaining crumb mixture evenly
softened
the latter consist of a tender molasses
Mash with a fork or chop with a
over the top. Bake for 1 0 minutes.
custard topped with crumbs. This ver sion is ''wet''
pastry blender until the mixture is
Reduce the oven temperature to
crumbly. In
Prepare in a 9-inch pie pan:
with a large spoon until thoroughly
Baked Flaky Pastry Crust, 22, or Pat-in-
blended:
firm in the center, 20 to 30 minutes
1 cup light molasses
more. Let cool completely on a rack
the-Pan Butter Crust, 26
a
separate bowl, beat
350°F and bake until the pie filling has puffed around the sides and feels
Position a rack in the center of the
I large egg
before slicing Store at room
oven. Preheat the oven to 40Q°F.
I teaspoon baking soda
perature for up to 3 days. Accom
Combine in a bowl:
Stir in thoroughly:
pany with:
I cup all-purpose four
1 cup boiling water
Whipped Cream, 76
tem
ABOUT CUSTARD PIES 95
ABOUT CI TRUS P I ES & TARTS hink of preparing these favorites when you're having company
T
over
even on a weeknight
since all of the recipes in this chap
ter con be made ahead and refrigerated. Sweet, tart, and refreshing, lemon and lime pies and torts make wonderful desserts. Ifyou are going to make a lemon or lime pie or tort from scratch, toke the time to grate the zest and squeeze the juice from fresh citrus fruits. Citrus zest contains pungent oils essential to a delicious filling, and fresh juice tastes incomparably better than frozen or bottled. Remember that the lemon or lime juice isn't being used here to boost the flavor of another fruit in the recipe; it's the star of the show, and you wont a pure, clean citrus flavor to burst forth in every mouth waterng bite.
Lemon Meringue Pie, 98 97
Lemo n M eri ngue Pie One 9-inch
pie; 8 servings
Prepare in a 9-inch pie pan:
2 to 3 teaspoons grated lemon zest
Baked Flaky Pastry Crust, 22, or a pat-in-the-pan crust, 26 to 29
Whisk in until no yellow streaks
surface. Immediately prepare :
remain:
Soft Meringue Topping, 3 1
Position a rack in the upper third of
4
tbe oven Preheat the oven to 3 2 5 °F
Add:
Whisk thoroughly in a saucepan:
2
1 %. cups sugar
large egg yolks to 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
sheet of plastic vvrap directly on the
Remove the plastic wrap from the pie and spread the meringue on top. anchoring the meringue to the edge of the crust at all points. Bake for
� cup cornstarch
Stirring constantly with a wooden
2 0 minutes. Let cool completely on
Vs teaspoon salt
spoon or rubber spatula, bring the
a rack, then refrigerate. The pie can
Whisk in, blending well:
mixture to a simmer over medium
be stored for up to 3 days in the
I Ih cups water
heat, then cook for 1 minute. The
refrigerator. Serve at room tempera
filling should be very dUck. Pour the
ture or cold.
% cup strained fresh lemon juice
(from 2 to 3 lemons)
f lling imo the pie crust and press a
O h i o Lemon Pie One 9-Jnch pie; 8 servings
This pie (opposite) is ofen associated
of whole lemons, including the white
Position a rack in the lower third of
with the Shakers, a nineteenth-century
pith, sliced paper-thin and macerated
the oven. Preheat the oven [Q 425°F.
religious group, though
in sugar until tender and swe et Before beginning, please read the material on pages 34 to 35.
4
Prepare:
4
it was popular among all Americans by the time the Shakers adopted it. The filling consists
large eggs
Whisk in:
Roll half the dough into a 1 3 -inch
tablespoons (I> stick) butter, melted 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour Stir the lemon mixture into the egg
round, f t it into a 9�inch pie pan,
mixture. Pour the flling into the
and trim the overhanging dough to
bottom crust and level with the
Flaky Pastry Dough, 15, or Deluxe Butler Flaky Pastry Dough, 1 7
% inch all around. Refrigerate. Roll
back of a spoon. Brush the overhang
the other half into a 1 2-inch round
ing bottom crust with cold water.
for the top crust and refrigerate it.
Cover with the top crust, aim, and
Grate the zest from:
crimp or flute the edge. Cut steam
2
vents in the top crust. Bake the pie
large or medium lemons
Slice the lemons paper-thin, remov
for 30 minutes. Reduce the oven
ing the seeds as you do so. In a glass
temperature to 3SQoF and bake until
or stainless-steel bowl, combine the
the top crust has puffed and a knife
lemon slices and grated zest with:
inserted into the center comes Ollt
2 cups sugar
clean, 20 to 30 minutes more. Let
Y4- teaspoon salt
cool completely on a rack. The pie
Cover and let stand at room temper
can be stored in the refrigerator for
ature for 2 to 24 hours. stirring
up to 2 days, but let it warm [Q
occasionall)� The longer the lemons
room temperature before serving
macerate, the better.
98 P ES & TARTS
Whisk until frothy:
Key Li me Pie One 9-inch pie; 8 servings If you do
3 to 4 teaspoons grated lime zest
For a pie with a meringue topping,
limes.
The mixture will thicken as the milk
let the unbaked pie stand at room
find the smolie( round Key you may need as many os 0 dozen to yield Y, cup ofjuice. Either a whipped creom or a meringue topping is on option here.
For a pie without a meringue tOp
starch paste) for:
Prepare in a 9-inch pie pan:
ping, bake the pie until tbe center
Soft Meringue Topping,
Baked Flaky Pasrry Crust, 22, or Crumb Crust, 30, made with graham
looks set but still quivery, like gela
Bake the pie until the f lling rhickens
tin, when the pan is nudged, 15 to
just enough to support the topping,
1 7 minutes Let cool completely on
5 to 7 minutes, but no longer.
crackers and baked
reacts with the acidic citrus juice.
temperature while you measure lhe
Pour the filling into the pie crust.
ingredients (and prepare the corn 31
Position a rack in the center of the
a rack, then refrigerate until cold or
Meanwhile, f nish the meringue.
oven. Preheat the oven to
for up to 1 day. Shortly before serv
Spread a band of meringue around
ing, whip until thickened:
the edges of the f lling, anchoring it
325°F.
Whisk together until well blended: One
15 -ounce can sweetened
34, cup cold heavy cream
ro the crust at all points. Dollop the
Add:
skim milk 4 large egg yollks
14 cup powdered sugar
remaining meringue over the center and smooth the top. Bake for 20
Whip until stiff peaks form. Spread
minutes more. Let cool completely
Yz cup strained fresh lime juice
the whipped cream over the pie and
on a rack, then refrigerate until cold
serve.
or for up to 1 day.
condensed whole, low-fat. or
(from 3 to
4 limes)
1 00 PIES & TARTS
Lemon Ange l Pie One I O-inch pie; 8 s ervings the peaks are stiff:
Position a rack in the center of the
the prepared pie pan, bringing the
oven. Preheat the oven to 2 7 SOE
rim of the shell VI in ch higher than
1 cup cold heavy cream
Using solid vegetable shortening,
the pan . Bake the shell for 1 hour,
Fold V3 of the whipp ed cream into
very generously grease the inside and
then let cool on a rack.
the lemon mixture, then gently fold
the rim of a l O -inch pie pan, prefer
In the top of a double boiler, whisk:
in the remaining. Spread the flling
ably glass. Dust the pan with four,
4 large egg yolks
in the meringue shell, press a sheet
tilt to coat, then tap out the excess.
% cup sugar
of plastic wrap directly on the sur
In a large bowl, beat on medium
Beat in:
face, and refrig erate for 24 to 48
speed until soft peaks form:
2 to 3 teaspoons grated lemon zest
hours . No more than 8 hours before
II. cup egg whites (about 4 large
14 cup strained fresh lemon juice
serving, beat on medium-high speed
Set the pan over (not in) barely sim
until thickened:
whites)
1 teaspoon vanilla (optional)
mering water. Stirring gently, cook
1 cup cold heavy cream
% teaspoon creaJIl of tartar
the mixture until thickened and stiff
Gradually add and beat until the
Very grad ually add 1 tablespoon at a
enough to mound softly on a spoon,
peaks are stiff:
time, beating on high speed:
7 to 10 minutes. Place the top pan
Y2 cup powdered sugar
1 cup superfne sugar
in cold water and, stirring now and
Spread over the top of the pie. If you
Beat until the meringue holds very
then, let cool.
wish, decorate or serve the pie with:
stiff peaks. Spread the meringue in
Beat on medium high speed unlil
1 to 2 cups raspberries or blueberries
Lemon Tart One
912- or I O-inch tort; 8
servings
Prepare in a 9 V2 or 1 O-inch two
piece tart pan, glazing wi th the egg
Yz cup strained fresh lemon juice (from 2 to 3 lemons)
yolk:
Return the bowl to the skillet and,
Baked Flaky Pastry Crust, 22, made
stirring gently, heat the llixllire
with Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry
until thickened to the consistency of
Dough or Sweet Flaky Pastry Dough,
heavy cream (lightly coats a spoon) ,
17, or Shortbread Crust, 28
6 to 8 minutes . Strain the lemon
before serving. If you wish, accom pany with:
Fresh Raspberry Sauce, below
Fresh Raspberry Sauce About
I
cup; 6 to 8 servings
Position a rack in the center of the
mixture through a clean f ne-mesh
oven. Preheat the oven to 3 50°F.
sieve into a bowl, then stir in:
Puree in
Combin e in a heatproof bowl :
1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
I pint raspberries, or 12 ounces
1 cup sugar
Pour the flling into the tart crust
8 tablespoons
(1
stick) unsalted
butter, cut into small pieces
a
blender:
frozen raspberries, thawed
Bake the tart until the center looks
3 tablespoons sugar
set but still very quivery, like gelatin,
2 teaspoons strained fresh lemon
Bring 1 inch of water to a bare sim
when the pan is nudged, I S to 20
mer in a skillet. Set the bowl in the
minutes. If overbaked, the tart will
skillet and stir until the butter is
be grainy around the edges. Let cool
melted Remove the bowl from the
completely on a rack . Lightly oil a
skillet. Add and beat until no yellow
sheet of plastic wrap and press it
streaks remain:
directly on the flling. The tart can be
8 large egg yolks
stored in the refrigerator for up to 1
Stir in:
day. Let warm to room temperature
juice
Stra n through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing firmly with a ru bber spatula. Taste , then str in a little more sugar or lemon juice if needed. Serve at once, or cover and refrgerate for up to 3 days.
ABOUT CITRUS PIES & TARTS 1 0 1
ABOUT CH O CO LAT E P I ES & TARTS T
a
he to rts in this section differ in their basic structure but are similar in
their richness and inten sity. For inst nce. Crustless Fudge Pie, 1 07,
forms a crunchy bo rde r around the edges of the pie as it bakes, making a
traditional crust unnecessary.
Besides chocolate, the filling of Bittersweet Chocolate Tart, 1 06, calls for only two other ingredients: a cup of cream and on egg. This tort has on utterly indulgent flavor and a silken texture. Reserve your best cho co late for this treat.
For the ultimate showstopper. prepare Tart, I 05
Chocolate Glazed Caramel
0 definite must for those who love caramel filled chocolates.
a
Top with toasted almonds and serve this elegant dessert (or your next (ancy din ner p
rty.
Bittersweet Chaco/ate Tore / 06
1 03
Chocolate Chocolate comes from almond
cooking chocolate, is pure chocolate
shaped beans that grow inside the
with no added ingredients. It contains
pods of cacao trees in tropical areas
nearly equal parts cocoa butter and
near the equator Cocoa beans, as
cocoa solids, the meat of the cocoa
they are known in the United States,
bean, which is why it imparts
develop their distinctive chocolate
such a deep, rich chocolate favor.
f avor, color, and aroma only after
Unsweetened chocolate is combined
they have been fermented, dried, and
with sugar in baking.
roasted To make chocolate, the roasted
Extra-bittersweet, bittersweet,
beans are chopped into small pieces
semisweet , and sweet chocolates are
called nibs The nibs are rich in cocoa
made of chocolate liquor, not more
butter, a cream-colored, natural
than 1 2 percent milk solids, cocoa
vegetable fat that melts during the
butter, sugar, vanilla or vanillin, and
grinding process producing a dark
lecithin Bittersweet bars often have
brown, fuid mass called chocolate
a deeper chocolate flavor than those
liquor
the primary ingredient in
all forms of chocolate except white. Chocolate liquor, also known as unsweetened, bitter, baking, or
labeled semisweet, and they are apt
used interchangeably in most
to be less sweet (although the
recipes, but tl1eir differences can
amount of sugar they contain is not
alter the favor, texture, and appear
regulated) . These chocolates may be
ance of the f nished product.
Chocolate- G l azed Carame l Tart One 91'- or I O-inch tort; 10 to 12 servings Prepare in a 9112 or l a-inch two
that the syrup clarify before the boil is
1
piece tart pan, glazing with the egg
reached, so slide the pan on and off
Ys teaspoon salt
teaspoon vanilla
yolk:
the burner as necessary. Increase the
Gradually whisk in the caramel mix
Baked Flaky Pastry Crust, 22, or
heat to high and bring the syrup to
ture. Pour the flling into the prepared
a rolling boil. Cover the pan tightly
tart crust and bake until the edges
Shortbread Crust, 28 Position a rack in the lower third of
and boil for 2 minutes. Uncover the
darken and begin to bubble and the
the oven. Preheat the oven to 3 25°F
pan and cook the syrup until it
center looks almost set, 45 to 55 min
Spread on a baking sheet:
begins to darken. Once again gently
utes. Let cool completely on a rack.
Yz cup slivered blanched ahnonds
swirl the pan and cook the syrup
Heat in the top of a double boiler
Toast in the oven, stirring occasion
until it turns a deep amber Remove
over gently simmering water until
ally, until golden, 5 to 7 minutes. Let
the pan from the heat. Standing back
melted and smooth:
cool, then coarsely chop. Place in a
to avoid possible spatters, pour in:
3 OWlces bittersweet or semisweet
medium, heavy saucepan:
1 Y. cups heavy cream
1 Y2. cups sugar
Stir until smooth. If the caramel
Drizzle evenly over the top:
remains lumpy, place the saucepan
Spread the chocolate glaze over the
Yz cup water
over low heat and stir until smooth
caramel f1ling and sprinkle with the
chocolate, finely chopped
Y. cup heavy cream
Place the pan over medium heat
Let the mixture cool for 1 0 minutes.
toasted almonds. Refrigerate the tart
and, without stirring, very gently
In a medium bowl, whisk until frothy:
until f rm or for up to 2 days. Serve
swirl the pan by the handle until a
1 1
large egg
cold with:
large egg yolk
Whipped Cream, 76
clear syrup forms It is important
ABOUT CHOCOLATE PIES & TARTS l O S
Bittersweet Chocolate Tart One 912-
or
I O-inch tort; 8 to
10
servings
Prepare in a 9 V1.- or 1 0 -inch two piece lart pan:
Shortbread Crust, 28 Position a rack in th e lower third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 37 SOE In a small saucepan, bring to a
8 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate. finely chopped
tin, when the pan is n udged , 1 5 to
Whisk until the chocolate is com
1 8 minutes . Let cool on a rack. Serve slightly warm or at room tempera
pletely melted and the mixture is
ture with:
smooth, then whisk in:
Whipped Cream. 76
1
The tart is best served the day it is
large egg. lightly beaten
simmer:
Pour the chocolate mixture into the
1 cup heavy cream Remove from the heat and add:
tart shell . Bake until the center
2 to 3 days. Let warm to room tem
seems set but still qUivery, like gela-
perature before serving.
baked but it can be reffigerated for
HOWTO SHAVE AND MELT CHOCOLATE Shoved chocolate is often used to
dec
orate chocolate pies and torts. Melted chocolate is used to make fillings, Containers and stir ing utensils used for melting chocolate must
be
clean
and dry; do not let stray drops of water touch the chocolate Small amounts of water may couse melted chocolate to lose il.s gloss and tighten or "seize."
I To shave chocolate, warm it by setting it in a warm place or stroking it with your palm. Scrape the blade of a paring kn fe or vegetable peeler across it at a 45 degree angle.
2 To melt chocolate, first chop it into pieces with a sharp dry knfe
1 06 PIES & TARTS
3 To melt chocolate using a water bath. place one third of it in the top of a dcuble boiler or in a bowl that fits snugly over the top of a saucepan. Fill the bottom pan with enough hot tap water ( 1 30°F) to touch the bot tom of the top bowl, but not so much as to allow the bowl to float. Avoid splashing water into it. Begin stirring with a rubber spatula when the outside edges of the chocolate begin to liquet}'. Gradually add the rest of the chocolate. Carefully l ft the bowl of chocolate from the water bath when the chocolate is nearly melted. dry the bo tom. and continue stirring the chocolate until it is smooth and shiny.
To melt chocolate using the micro wave. select a dry, microwave safe plast c bowl and fill it no more than half full with chopped chocolate. Microwave I to 8 ounces of dark chocolate. uncovered. on medium power for I Y2 minutes to 3Y2 min utes. depending on the amount of chocolate. Use low power for milk and white chocolates. Stir the choco late with a rubber spatula after the first I n minutes, even if it appears firm. If necessary. continue microwav ing in increasingly shorter increments at the appropriate power level until most of the chocolate is melted. Stir until the chocolate is smooth and shiny.
Crustl ess Fudge Pie One 9-inch pie; 8 to 1 0 servings This superb
confection
has appeared
in
Let cool.
In a
medium
bowl,
cream
JOY since our 1 943 edition. We coli it
with the back of a wooden spoon
Q pie because it forms a sort of crust
until fuffy :
around the sides during baking, but it
1 cup sugar tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened Beat in the chocolate along with : 2 large egg yolks 1 teaspoon vanilla Stir just until blended : % cup all-purpose Hour Fold in : 1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts or pecans In a separate bowl, beat on mediurn high speed until foamy : 2 large egg whites, at room temperature Add: % teaspoon of cream of tartar
couldjust as apdy be considered a fudgy brownie It is
or dense chocolate cake devastatingly rich. but do not let
that deter you. Position a rack in
the center of the oven. Preheat the oven to 3 2 5 °F. Generously butter a 9-inch pie pan. Sprinkle the inside with flour, tilt the pan in all directions to coat, and tap out the excess Stirring from time to time, melt in the top of a double boiler over barely simmering water or in a microwave on 2
medium power (opposite) : ounces unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped
8
Increase the speed to high and beat until the peaks are stiff but not dry. Using a rubber spatula. fold the egg whites into the chocolate mixture.
Spread the baner evenly in the pre center feels almost frm when gently pressed, 25 to 3 5 minutes let cool completely on a rack before slicing. Serve the pie warm or at room tem perature wi th : Whipped Cream, 76. or vanilla ice cream The pie can be stored, loosely cov ered, at room temperature for up to 1 day. If you wish, warm it in a 300°F oven for about 1 0 minutes
pared pan and bake until the
before serving.
ABOUT CHOCOLATE PIES & TARTS 1 07
ABOUT SAVORY P I ES & TARTS hese savory pies and torts are sure to become family favoites.
T
They also make great dishes to bring to potluck parties because
they are easy to transport and reheat. From casual to elegant to hearty, these savory dishes are extremely versatile to serve. Cut large tarts into bite sized pieces for hors d'oeu vres. Pair a wedge of savory tart with a simple tossed salad for a sophisticated lunch. For a simple eventng meal with family and friends, serve a meaty pot pie. You'll notice that many of these recipes use crusts that you mastered for sweet pies. Some have their own doughs. All lend themselves
to
experimentation when it comes to their fillings. Try swapping the ground beeftn the Empanadas, 1 1 4, with ground turkey or even block beans. Toss some roasted red peppers or sauteed onions into the mix ture for Pizza Rustica, 1 1 7. Adopt these recipes to meet your family's tastes and to vary them from time to time.
Quiche Lorraine, I
10 1 09
Q u iche Lorrai ne One 9-inch quiche; 4 to
This brunch and lunch classIc is a
speCIOlty of the Lorraine region of northeostern France, where it WQS first mode as early as the sixteenth century. Traditional quiche Lorraine contains no cheese. For a more elegant presenta tion, it con 0150 be
baked as individual
tortlets. Preheat the oven to
3 75°F.
Prepare and bake in a 9 Vl- or I O-inch rnro-piece tart pan and
glaze with egg yolk: Flaky Pasr y Daugh, 1 5 Cook in a h eavy skillet over mediurn heat, stirring
HAM AND CHEESE QUICHE
6 servings
constantly, until th e fat
is almost rendered but the bacon is
4 ounces sliced bacon, cut
into
I-inch pieces Drain the bacon on paper towels. Beat together: 3 large eggs,
lightly beaten l 'A cups creme fraiche, heavy cream, or half cream and half milk 'A teaspoon salt y. teaspoon ground black pepper Pinch of freshly grated or ground nutmeg Arrange the bacon on the bottom of the shell and pour the custard over
it. Bake until the flling is browned and set, 25 to 3S minutes.
Prepare Quiche Lorraine, left, substi tuting I cup chopped ham for the cooked bacon and spreading I cup grated Gruyere or other cheese on the bottom of the
pi e shell
before adding the custard. BROCCOLI QUICHE
Saute Y2 red onion, chopped, and I clove garlic ,
minced, in olive
oil
until soft. Blanch and drain ¥3 cup broccoli florets. Prepare Quiche Lorraine, left, omitting the bacon. Spread the onions and broccoh,
and r.; cup grated Gruyere or other cheese on the bottom of the pie shell before adding the custard.
not yet crisp :
Leek Tart (Flam i che aux Poi reaux) One 9-inch tort; 6 servings
and cream pie from
This is a rich leek
northern France.
occasionally and redu cing the heat
as they cook, abom 3 0 minutes.
LEEKS
time,
with fat radler than hollow leaves,
After about 1 5 minutes of cooking
Prepare: y, recipe Flaky Posery
Dough, 15, or Deluxe Butter Flaky Pasrry Dough, 1 7
set a rack in the lowest posi
tion in [he oven . Preheat the oven
Roll out the dough '/a inch thick and
to 400°F.
fit into a buttered 9-inch qUiche,
Beat together
tart, or pie pan.
2
Refri gerate while
you prepare the fillin g. Melt in a medium skiUet over medium heat:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter Add: 2 pounds leeks, trimmed
until well combined:
large eggs y, cup heavy cream, half-and-half. or light cream V. teaspoon freshly grated or ground nutmeg Salt and ground black pepper to taste
Lookin g like enormous scallions leekS are
an
ancient member of the
onion family, milder and sweeter
than any others in the clan . When buying a bunch. be sure the leaves are bright, crisp, and not torn, and
the whi te parts are not discolored Store in perforated plastic vegetable bags in the refrigerator crisper
The layers of a leek can contain dirt, since dle white stalks are
to white and tender green parts only, split lengthwise, cleaned thoroughly, and cut into Y4-inch-thick slices (about 4 cups) Ih. teaspoon salt Ground black pepper to taste
done, add to the custard and transfer
cool water. Let them stand
[0 the prepared pastry shell. Bake
minutes while the dirt falls to the
Cover and cook until the leeks are
10
very soft, with little color, stirring
then cut into wedges and serve.
I 1 0 PIES & TARTS
Remove the pastry shell from the refrigerawr. When the leeks are
until golden and 20 to
30
the
custard is set,
minutes. Let rest for
minutes to settle (opposite),
"blanched," bmied in earth to
keep them pale. Swish julienned or sliced leeks in a large bowl of a
few
bottom, then lift them om with a suainer. Repeal if there is din left in the bowl
a
lot of
ABOUT SAVORY PIES & TARTS I I I
Tomato and Fo nti na Cheese Tart One 9-inch pie or I O-inch tat< 6 to 8 servings
in thin wedges as an appetizer or as a meatless main dish. Preheat the oven ro 400°F. Combine in a large bowl: 1:y. cups all-purpose flour Y. teaspoon salt 12 tablespoons (1 y, sticks) cold butter, cut into small pieces Work the butter into the flour with a pastry blender or your fingers until it resembles coarse crumbs. Stu in, Serve
I 1 2 PIES & TARTS
bit by bit, just until the pastry comes rogether: 4 tablespoons ice water Roll out the dough with a little four into a 1 2 -inch round, 1/8 inch thick. Fit into a I O-inch tart pan or a 9-inch pie plate. Brush the pascry with Y. cup Dijon mustard Cover with: 2 cups loosely packed shredded Fontina cheese
Layer over the cheese in overlapping, concentric circles, S mediwn tomatoes, thinly sliced Sprinkle with: 1 tablespoon chopped garlic 2 teaspoons chopped fresh marjoram 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil Bake for 40 minutes and let cool slightly before serving_
Tomato and Goat Cheese Quiche One 9-lnch qUiche; 6 servings
Prepare: y, recipe Flaky Pasrry Dough.
4 ounces fresh goat cheese
15.
or
Slowly mash in until smooth:
Deluxe Butter Flaky Pasrry Dough. 1 7 Roll out the dough 1/8 inch thick and f t inco a buttered 9-inch quiche, tart, or pie pan. Refrigerate while you prepare the f lling Set a rack in the lowest position in the oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F Core, quarter lengthwise. seed, and set aside :
y. cup half-and-half or heavy
1 pound plwn tomatoes (about 6)
If. teaspoon salt
Crumble into a bowl:
Plenty of ground black pepper
cream lh cup milk
Add and whisk lmtil
smooth:
3 large eggs
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley 1 % teaspoons chopped fresh thyme or savory or 3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
Remove the pastry shell from the refrigerator and arrange the tomaro quarters in the shell like the spokes of a wheel, wilh the pointed end (blossom end) toward the center of the quiche. Fill in the center with more tomato quarters. Pour the cheese mixture over the tomatoes and bake until the pastry and top are golden brown, 40 to 45 minutes. Let the quiche rest for 1 0 minutes to seltle, then cut into wedges and serve
Chard Tart One I I -inch tart; 6 to 8 servings
A springtime tradition in many parts o( Italy and France. Escarole leaves, spinach, or other spring vegetables can be mixed In or substituted (or the chord.
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 425°F. To prepare the pastry. whisk together in a medium bowl: 1 34 cups all-purpose four 14 teaspoon salt
StiT in with a fork until thoroughly blended :
2 tablespoons olive oil I red onion, finely diced Increase the heat to medium and add and cook until tender, 8 to 1 0 minutes: 1 pound chard leaves or other greens, stems removed. leaves well washed and chopped 2 cloves garlic. chopped
Season with: 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil.
is golden and firm. 25 to 35 min utes. let cool to room temperature before serving CHARD When you see the large, ruffled, rich green leaves of Swiss chard at the market, you might imagine they have a f amboyant favor to match In fact , chard has a more delica te taste than spinach, and
or l lh teaspoons dried. finely
very young chard leaves are as
crumbled
mild as lenuce, The Swiss is a puz
V:t cup extra-virgin olive oil
� teaspoon salt
zlement; there is nothing Sv.riss
Yi cup cold milk or water
% teaspoon ground black pepper
about this close relative of beets.
The dough wil be very crumbly and difficult to roll, so press it evenly into an I I -inch tart pan 'with a removable rim. Bake until the crust is set and lightly golden, 1 0 to 1 5 minutes, pricking the bottom once or ['wice if it bubbles. Meanwhile, cook in a large skillet over medium low heat until well softened, stirring occasionally, 1 0 to 1 5 minutes:
Pinch of ground red pepper. or
But there is more [0 this vegetable
to taste
Combine in a bowl: 3 large eggs. lightly beaten 'h cup heavy cream or half-andhalf
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese Add the
chard mixture, then scrape the mIxture into the prepared tart shell and spread evenly. Reduce the oven to 3 7 5°F. Bake until the filling
than leaves. The fleshy ribs can be prepared separately; they taste like earthy celery. Chard leaves may be green with white ribs or burgundy with crimson ribs. Select the bunch with the smallest, crispesl, brightest leaves and no yellOWing, lears, or holes S tore in perforated plastiC vegetable bags ill the refrig erator crisper
ABOUT SAVORY PIES & TARTS I I ];
Em panadas I O ta I 2 large empanadas These flaky meat pies are a much
Mix genuy with a fork until the
10
loved snack all through Latin America
f our mixrure is dampened enough
the heat to medium-high, and cook
Although they con be filled with any thing from fssh most common.
to
fruit, a meat
Lord
fslling is
makes the most
minutes. Uncover the pan, increase
to gather into a balL Shape into a
briefy to evaporate any pan juices.
thick, /lat disk, wrap tightly in plas
Remove from the heat and let cool
tic, and refrigerate for at least
completely.
1
navorful, noky crust, but solid vegetable
hour. For the flling, heat in a large
Preheat the oven to
shortening is certainly acceptable.
nonstick skillet over medium heat:
To shape the empanadas, roll out
400·F.
For the dough, place in a large bowl
1
or food processor:
Add
foured surface Cut 6-inch rounds
3
tablespoon vegetable oil
the dough y. inch thick on a lightly from the dough (You will have
cups all-purpose four 1 Y, teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon salt
2
1 medium onion, diced cloves garlic, minced
to reroll the scraps to get
Cook, stirring, until the onion is
12
Mix with a fork or pulse until com
translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in:
the filling Onto one side of each
bined. Add:
1 pound lean ground beef
round. Moisten the edges of the
10 tablespoons (1 Y. sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces VI cup lard or solid vegetable shortening, cut into small pieces
Cook until the beef is lightly
rounds with water, fold each one in
browned, about 8 minutes. Stir in:
half, and press the edges tOgether to completely enclose the f lling. Use
the mixture to a large bowl Drizzle
1 cup diced peeled potatoes 1 large tomato. cored and chopped � cup raisins (optional) % cup coarsely chopped pitted green olives (optional) 1 teaspoon dried oregano Yz teaspoon salt Y2 teaspoon ground black pepper Y.. teaspoon dried thyme
over the top:
Cook, covered, over medium heat
1 1 to 1 3 tab1espoons ice water
until the pmaroes are tender, about
Cut the butter and lard into the four mixture using a pastry blender or pulse in the food processor until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. If using the food processor, transfer
1 1 4 PIES & TARTS
rounds.) Spoon about
1 0 to Y. cup
of
[he tines of a fork to decoratively seal the edges. Place 2 inches apart on a baking sheet. Mix together and brush over the tops of the empanadas: 1
large egg. lightly beaten 1 tablespoon milk Pinch of salt Bake Wltil nicely browned, about
15
minutes. Let cool slightly on a
rack and serve warm.
1 1 6 PIES • TARTS
Tamale Pie 8
to I 0 servings Generously grease a 1 3 x 9-inch
Unlike many tamale pies, which have
gently, stirring occasionally, [or
top crust only, this one is completely enclosed in 0 cornmeal crust (opposite).
1 0 minutes . Remove from the heaL
baking dish, preferably glass .
Bring just to a boil in a small
Remove l lA cups of the cornmeal
saucepan:
baner and reserve. Using
Crumble into a large skillet and cook
1 � cups water
spatula, spread the remaining batter
a
a r ubber
over medium-high heat until the
1 cup vegetable or chicken stock
evenly over the bar tom and all the
meat is no longer pink, tho rou ghly
Cover and rem ove from the heat.
way up (he sides of the pan. Gent y
breaking up the meat with the back
Whisk together in a large bowl :
spoon the beef flling over the
of a spoon:
2 teaspoons baking powder
then cover evenly with:
I 1h. teaspoons salt
1 2 ounces grated sharp Cheddar
1 V:t POWlrS lean ground beef or ground mrkey
crust,
cheese (about 3 packed cups)
Whisk in:
If necessary, tilt the skillet and spoon
YI cup vegetable oil
out any fat. Stir in:
Then stir in, mixing until all the
v. cup hot water
3 cups tomato salsa
cornmeal is coated with the oil:
Then spread it in a thin, even layer
3 cups yellow cornmeal
over the top of the pie. The batter
Add the reserved stock mixture
will blend lightly with the cheese.
Yl cup chopped pimiento-stuffed green olives
Stir into the reserved batter:
pi e until nicely browned,
1 tablespoon chili powder
and stir well Let the batter stand
Bake the
1 tablespoon ground cumin
for 5 minutes. Mix in:
about 40 minutes. let stand for 15 minutes Cut the pie len gthwise
%. teaspoon grolllld cinnamon
2 large eggs
Bring the mixmre to a simmer.
Position a rack in the center of the
in half, then cut each half crosswise
Reduce the heat to low and simmer
oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
into 4 or 5 equal pieces.
Pizza Rustica (Ital ian Meat Pie) Sixteen 2-inch square servings two-thirds of the
The navor of this pizzo is best when served cold.
\t. cup finely chopped fresh Italian
Preheat the oven to 40Q°F.
Ground black pepper to taste
To prepare the flling, beat together
To prepare
until smooth:
board or in a bowl, combine:
2 pounds ricatta cheese
2 cups sifted all-purpose four
remaining dough and cover the top.
4 large eggs
� cup sugar
Trim the overhang and press the
Add and mix well
2 teaspoons baking powder
edges "'lith the tines of a fork. Prick
8 OWlees sweet Italian sausage,
With your fingers . break into the
the top crust with the fork to allow
lightly
flOUT about
dough and roll out to f t a 8
parsley
the pie
crust, on a pastry
x
8 x
2-inch pan, with a V2-inch overhang. Pour the meat
mixture into
the
pastry-lined pan. Roll o ut the
baked or fried. cooled, and
f our until the f our is mealy:
steam to escape. If deSired, brush
coarsely chopped
8 tablespoons (1 stick) butler
the top v.nth :
8 OWlees pork fllet or any other lean pork meat, cut into small cubes, fried, and cooled 8 OlUlces mozzarella cheese, cut
Make a well, and break into it:
1 egg yolk. well beaten
2 large eggs
Bake for 1 5 minutes. Reduce the
Beat the eggs with a fork. Blend imo
oven temperature to 3 2 5 °F and cook
the flour mixture, knead quickly,
for 4S to S 5 minutes more. Turn off
and gather into a balL Let rest for
the heat and let the pizza cool in th e
4 ounces prosciutto, diced
1 0 minu tes under a bowl. The
oven Cut into 2-inch squares and
Yz cup grated Parmesan cheese
dough will be soft and qUite
serve warm or cold.
into small cubes
sticky
ABOUT SAVOR.Y PIES & TARTS I 1 7
Greek Spi nach and Cheese Pie (Spanakopita) About thirty 2-inch squares or diamonds towel and cover the dry [Owe) with
For tiropetes. triangular-shaped. individ
Let stand until cool enoug h to
ual pockets. spoon small mounds of the filling onto 3-inch-wide strips of
handle, men squeeze to remove the
a damp towel Lay 1 sheet of phyllo
excess liquid . In a medium bowl,
in and up the sides of the prepared
phyllo. Fold up into triangles and bake
lightly beat:
pan and brush lightly witll melted
for 15 to 20 minutes.
4 large eggs
butter. Top with 7 more phyllo
Stem, wash well , and coarsely chop:
Add the cooked spinach mixture
sheets, brushing each one lightly
2
along with:
with butter Spread the spinach mix
ounces feta cheese. crwnbled tablespoons grated kefalotiri (Greek grating cheese) or Parmesan cheese Y2 teaspoon salt Several grinds of black pepper Pinch offreshly grated or groWld nutmeg Lightly oil a 1 3 x 9- inch baking pan.
ture over [he layered phyllo Top with
pOWlds spinach
Heat in a large skillet over medium 2 tablespoons
olive oil
Add and cook until softened. 5 to 7 minutes:
large onion, finely dlOpped 4 scallions, finely chopped 1
Add the chopped spinach a handful at a time. Cook un til the spinach is wilted and
8
2
heat:
the
liquid is released,
Melt:
5 minutes Increase the heat to high
8
and cook, stirring often, until the
Unroll on a dry work surface:
liquid is evaporated and the spinach
1
is dry, 7 to 1 0 minutes. Stir in: y. cup snipped fresh
dill or chopped fresh parsley
tablespoons (I stick) butter pound phyllo dough, thawed if frozen
8 more sheets, brushing each one \-vith butter, including the top sheet. Roll the overhanging phyllo from the sides [0 form a border all the way around. With a thin, sharp knife, cut me pie into squares or diamonds, but do not cut through the bottom or the filling will leak onto the pan. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 37 SOF. Bake the spinach pie until criSp and golden, about 4S minutes . Remove from the oven and let stand for
a
Trim 1 inch from the edges of he
few minutes. Cut right through to
phyllo dough. Cover with a dry
the bottom and serve
PHYLLO Phyllo, literally leaf in Greek, can be
reqUired for rhe recipe ; rewrap the
made by hand, but we do not rec
remaining sheets in plastiC wrap and
onunend it; it is an arduous and
reUlm them to the refrigerator or
tricky process th at yields resuhs no
freezer Stack the sheets to be used on
bener than what is commercially
a tray or a sheet of plastic wrap, cover
available frozen in most grocery
the stack with a sheet of plastiC wrap,
stores or fresh from Greek and
and cover the wrap with a damp towel
Middle Eastern bakeries Store
(Do nOl allow the damp tOwel to touch
bought phyllo is easy to work with,
the phyno, or it will dissolve into
but it is essential to keep the thin
paste ) A sheet of phyllo left uncovered
sheets from drying out. If using
dries out in just a minute and \vi11
frozen phyl lo, thaw it slowly, without
crack when yo u try to use it. Remove
unwrapping, in the refrigerator for
from the covered stack only the num
several hours or overnight. Once it
ber of sheets of phyllo immediately
is thawed, unwrap the phyllo and
called for and qUickly re cover the
remove only the number of sheets
Slack before proceeding
ABOUT SAVORY PIES & TARTS I 1 9
C h icken o r Tu rkey Pot Pie 6 to 8 servings This pot pie has a top crust only, which
then reduce the heat so that the
may be either biscuit or pie pastry.
poaching liquid barely bubbles.
2 to
3
pinches of freshly grated or
ground nutmeg
Sauteing the vegetables separately
Partially cover and cook until the
Prepare:
instead of cooking them with the chicken
meat releases clear juices when
ensures thot they will retain their tex
pierced with a fork, 2 S to 30 minutes
ture and color This recipe includes
for chicken parts, 8 to 1 2 minutes
Basic Biscuit Dough, 122, VI recipe Flaky Pasry Dough, IS, or Vz recipe Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry Dough, 1 7
for boneless, skinless chicken or
Refrigerate the biscuit o r pastry
directions for poaching raw poultry. You con also use
4
cups d ced or shredded
skinless cooked poultry. Just substitute
2
cups canned chicken broth for the
turkey breast. Remove the meat from
dough.
the stock and let stand until cool
Position a rack in the upper third of
enough to handle. If using chicken
the oven . Preheat the oven to 40Q°F.
reserved poaching broth.
parts, remove and discard the skin
Butter a 13 x 9-inch baking pan or
3 V2. pounds chicken parts or 1 Y;r. pounds boneless. skinless
and bones. Cut or shred the meat into
other shallow baking dish.
bite-sized pieces. Skim the fat from
Heat in a large skillet over medium
chicken breast or turkey breast
the stock wHh a spoon. Melt in a
high heat until the foam begins to
cutlets or tenders
large saucepan over medium-low heat:
subside:
Place the chicken in a Dutch oven. Add:
1 ],4 to 2
4 tablespoons
(Yz stick) unsalted
butter cups chicken stock
2 tablespoons unsalted butter Add and cook, stirring often, until
Add and whisk until smooth:
barely tender, about S minutes:
Pour in just enough water to cover
VI cup all-purpose four
1 medium onion, chopped
the pieces. Chicken pans may require
Cook, whisking constantly, for
3 medium carrots, peeled and sliced 1,4 inch thick
as much as 3 cups water to be
1 minute. Remove the pan from the
covered, while boneless, skinless
heat. Add 2 cups of the chicken
breasts may not need any at all.
stock and vvhisk until smootb.
Bring to a simmer over high heat,
Whisk in:
Stir the vegetables into the creamed
1 Vz cups whole milk, half-and-
chicken along with:
half, or light cream
Y4 inch
thick
%. cup frozen peas, thawed
Increase the heat to medium and
3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
bring the mixture just to a simmer,
Pour the chicken mixture into the
whisking constantly. Remove the pan
prepared pan. If using biscuit dough,
from the heat, scrape the inside of
for rolled biscuits, roll out the dough
the saucepan with a wooden spoon
ifz inch thick, then cut into 2 inch
or heatproof ru bber spatula, and
rounds and arrange on top of the
whisk vigorously to break up any
chicken, overlapping the biscuits if
lumps. Return the pan to the heat
necessary; for drop biscuits, simply
and, whisking, bring to a simmer
drop small biscuits on the top. If
and cook for
1
minute. Stir in the
using pie dough, roll it out into the
cooked poultry along with:
shape of the pan, place on top of the
2 to 3 tablespoons sherry
chicken, and n.lCk the edges in against
(optional)
the pan sides. For a golden brown
Cook for 1 minute. Remove from
glaze, brush the top with:
the heat and season to taste with:
2 tablespoons beaten egg (y, large)
Several drops of lemon juice
Bake until the chicken is bubbly and
Salt and ground white or black
the topping is nicely brovmed, 2S to
pepper
1 20 PIES & TARTS
2 snlall celery stalks, sliced
3S minutes.
ABOUT SAVORY PIES & TARTS I 2 I
Vegetabl e Pot Pie with Cheddar Bisc u it Crust 8
to 12 servings
This dish makes wonderful party food because it serves a crowd and the veg etables con be prepared up to I day ahead: Cut up, brown, and place the vegetables in the bakmg diSh, The crust con be mode up to 2 hours ahead and kept covered at room temperature. Keep the vegetables in large chunks as directed in the recipe so thot they remain intact and do not cook down to Q puree. Prepare and keep each vegetable in
1 butternut squash (about
2'h pOWlds), peeled and cut into
5 to 7 minutes , transfer to the bowl,
I -inch pieces
1 acorn squash (about peeled and cut into
pan, then add the carrots and par snips. Brown , stirring frequendy, for
1 % pounds), 1- inch
pieces
8 ounces portobello mushrooms, cut into thick slices and slices halved crosswise
and season with salt and pepper. Repeat, adding oil and butter as needed , with the celery root and squashes, browning them all sepa rately and seasoning with salt and pepper as you place them in the
Have ready:
bowl. Add the mushrooms to the
3 or 4 tablespoons olive oil
pan with more oil and butter if
3 or
needed, turn the heat to high, and
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
separate bowls:
Heat Vz tablespoon oil and Vz table
2 medium red onions (about
spoon butter in a large skillet over
about
medium high hear. Add the on .on
and season with salt and pepper.
slices and cook until browned, about
Preheat the oven to 400 °F.
3 minutes on each side. Transfer to a
Add to the vegetables:
large bowl and season with:
2 tablespoon chopped fresh
1
pound) , cut into thick slices
3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into I -inch pieces
3 parsnips, peeled and cut into I -inch pieces 1 celery root. peeled and cut into I -inch pieces
Salt and ground black pepper to taste Add a bit more oil and butter to the
brown them well, tossing frequently,
5
to 7 minutes . Add to the bowl
marjoram, or
1
tablespoon dried
Gently mix the herb and vegetables together, transfer to a 13 x 9-inch baking dish, and spread evenly in ] layer. Pour over the vegetables:
4 cups vegetable or chicken stock Cover the dish and bake until the
BasIc Biscuit Dou gh About twenty biscuits
Whisk together thoroughly in a large bowl:
vegetables are just tender when
Drop in:
classic fluffY biscuits. continue to cut in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Do not allow the butter to melt or form a paste with the flour. Add all at once:
5 to 6 tablespoons cold unsalted
% cup milk
2 cups all· purpose flour 2V2 teaspoons baking powder
Y2 to % teaspoon salt
butter, cut into pieces
Cut in the butter w th 2 knives or a pastry blende� tossing the pieces with the flour mixture to coat and separate them as you work For biscuits with crunchy edges and a fla� layered structure, continue to cut in the butter until the largest pieces are the size of peas and the rest resemble breadcrumbs. For
Mix with a rubber spatula, wooden spoon, or fork just until most of the dry ingredients are mo stened. With a l ghtly floured hand, gather the dough nto a bell and knead it gently against the sides and bottom of the bowl 5 to 1 0 times, tuming and pressing any loose pieces Into the dough each t me until they adhere and the bowl is fairly clean.
p ierced with the tip of a sharp knife, 30 to 45 minutes . While the vege
tables bake, prepare: 1 recipe Basic Biscuit Dough, left
using heavy cream in place of the milk and adding with the cream:
0/4 cup grated Cheddar cheese 2 teaspoons minced garlic (optional)
V. teaspoon cracked black pepper Set aside. After the vegetables have cooked for 30 to 45 minutes , uncov er the dish and spoon dollops of biscuit dough over the vegetables (opposite). Continue baking until the biscuits are browned, 20 to 25 min utes more. Remove from the oven, let stand for 1 0 minutes, and serve.
1 22 PIES & TARTS
Pasties 6 pasties When the copper boom was at its
1
peak in Michigan's Upper Peninsula
2 medium onions, coarsely
work surface Divide into 6 portions
in the 1 800s, immigrants from Finland
and roll out each to form an 8-inch
in the mines. While the nome "pasty"
chopped Salt and ground black pepper to taste
is originally
Cover and set aside. Mix together in
Divide the f ll ing among the
and England �ooded the area to work
from Cornwall, both groups
cup VI-inch cubes peeled carrots
combined Turn oU( onto a f oured
round
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
baked their own version of pasty. The
a large bowl:
6 rounds, spooning the flling onto
Finnish often used a thin rye crust
4 cups all-purpose four
half of each dough round. Fold the
stuffed with fIsh or rice. Ours is more
1
reminiscent of the Cornish-style pasty.
Yz teaspoon salt
tablespoon sugar
dough over the filling and ruck it
under the flling. Moisten me
Both provided the miners with the
Cut in with a pastry blender or
exposed edge and bring it up [Q
perfea portable lunch.
2 knives until the mixture resembles
meet the tucked edge, pinching
Combine well :
coarse crumbs :
1 y. pounds beef round steak, cut
1 % cups solid vegetable
into %-inch cubes, or ground chuck 2Vl cups �-inch cubes pee,led rutabagas or turnips 2 Yz cups Yl-inch cubes peeled potatoes
Mix tog ether:
ball, f attened on the bottom side.)
7S.
Cut a slit in the top of each pasty
1 1
the dough tOgether to seal it. (Each
shortening
cup water large egg tablespoon white vinegar
Add the liqUid ingredients to the
dry ingredien ts and mix just until
pasty should resemble a small foot
and place on an ungreased baking sheet Bake until the crust is golden, 50 to 60 minutes. Serve warm or
at room temperature.
ABOUT SAVORY PIES & TARTS 1 1 3
Steak and M ushroom Pie 4 to 6 servings This version of the English
pub classic,
3
steak and kidney pie, is made with
tablespoons butter, rendered beef fat, or vegetable oil
Return the pan to medium heat. Add and co ok until softened, about
mushrooms, whose rich
Add th e meat in 2 batches and
3 minutes:
flavor complements
brown well on all si des, being care
medium If the pan is dry, add:
tablespoons butter cups finely chopped onions Pinch of salt Pinch of ground black pepper Pinch of dried thyme
2
Add and cook, stirring , lffitil even ly
and earthy the beer
Preheat the oven to 3 5 0°F.
ful not to crowd the pan, about 3 to
Pat dry and cut into 2-inch pi eces: 2 pounds beef·round. rump.
or
chuck steak Season wim: 1 1
teaspoon salt teaspoon ground black pepper
Dredge in: Yz cup all-purpose
4 minutes. Remove the meat with a
slotted spoon. Reduce the heat to
browned, about 2 minutes: 1
flour
Shake off rhe excess. Heat in a large skillet over high heat:
tablespoons butter
Add and cook, stirring, until
pound portobello, cremini, or white mushrooms. wiped clean and thickly sliced
Transfer to a plate and set aside.
3
2
incorporated 3
tablespoons all-purpose four
Add to the pan:
2 1
cups dry red wine or ale cup beef stock
Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and
simmer until slightly thickened Butter an 8- to 1 O-inch ovenproof casserole with a 2- to 3 -quart capadty.
Spoon the meat into the bottom and cover yyjth the mushrooms. Pour the thickened stock and onion mix
ture over all Bake, covered, for 1 to 1 1/1 hours. Taste and adj ust the sea
sonings If deSired, add: y. cup chopped fresh parsley 2
tablespoons snipped fresh chives
Cool completely. At this point, the filling can be refrigeraled for up to 2 days. To finish the pie, preheat the oven to 425°F.
MUSHROOMS Mushrooms lend bOlh elegance and
and all close to the same size. If the
earthiness to a dish. While we are
gills are open, the mushrooms are
grateful for the abundance of culti
more mature and their favor will be
vated small button mushrooms, wild
stronger, and with a wild mushroom,
mushrooms have considerably more
this may be a plus. Open-gilled mush
Roll out and cover the filling in the
casserole with: 1fz recipe Deluxe Butter Flaky Pastry
Dough, 17, or the dough for Basic Rolled Biscuits. 122
character, and an assorunem of them
rooms should be used as soon as possi
Whisk together and brush lightly
is available in specialty groceries and
ble. A trick When a costly mushroom
over the top of the dough:
supermarkets. Choose mushrooms
is needed to f avor a rush, buy one or
1 large egg
that are heavy for their size, with dry,
two, depending on the intensity of its
2
firm caps and stems-nothing damp
favor, then fill in with neutral tasting
or shriveled, no dark or soft spms ,
Bake until the pastry is golden and
bUlCon mushrooms.
tablespoons milk
fu lly cooked, 25 to 30 minutes.
Serve at once.
1 14 PIES & TARTS
I ndex Bold type indicates that a recipe has an accompanyin g photograph.
Deep-Dish Pear Pie with Cranberries and, 5 3
51
Galette, 68 Pies, 38, 40, 52
TarteTatin, 56-57.64 61
Banana Cream Pie. 74, 75 Biscuit Dough, 1 2 2
Black Bottom Pie. 76. 7 7
Canned. 44 crusts for, 3 5
-Glazed Caramel Tart, 1 04. 105
deep dish. 5 2 53
Mousse Pie, 79
fillings for, 34, 49 5 I
Mousse wilh Gelalin, 7 9 Pecan Pie, 9 3
Half-Covered GaJeue, 70, 7 1 Pie. 32-33, 40 Brandy Sauce, Hot, 88 10
Butter 1 7
Flaky Pastry (Pate Brisee). 12-13, 1 7
Coconut
Fudge Pie, Crustless, 107 Galettes, 6 8 - 7 1
Cream Pie. 74
Apple, 68
Custard Pie, 84 -85. 86
tr
Cornmeal Flaky Pas y,
I
Fruit Crostata. 69
7
Half-Covered Berry or Peach, 70, 71
Cornslarch. 34
Yeasted French, 70, 7 1
Cranberries, Deep Dish Pear Pie with
Pal in the Pan Crust, 2 6
uiche. I I 3
Goat Cheese and Tomato Q
Whipped, 76
Grapes, 5 1
P
Cream Cheese astry Dough. 1 8
Cros{ata, Fruit. 69
Ham and Cheese Quiche. I
Crumb Crust, 30
Hard Sauce 55
for fruit pies, 3 5
o
Chard 1 1 3 Tart, 1 1 3 Cheddar
Biscuit Crust,Vegetable Pot Pie with, 122. 123 Crust. Deep Dish Apple Pie with, 5 2 Cheese and Ham Quiche. 1 1 0
and Spinach Pie (Spanakopita). 1 1 8. 1 1 9 Fontina,andTomatoTart. 1 1 2 Goat, andTomato Quiche, 1 1 3
Vegetable POl Pie. with Cheddar Biscuit Crust, I22
is
Cherr e
Pies, 42,43,45 sour, 43 Chess Pies, 9 3 , 94
Chicken PotPie. 120, 1 2 1 Chiffon Pie, Lemon or Lime, 78
lOS
Almond Candy Bar Pie. 80, 8 1 BittersweetTart, 1 02-3, 1 0 6 Black Bottom Pie, 76. 7 7
Cream Pie, 74
1 26 PIES & TARTS
I0
Crusts, 20-31
Caramel
Chocolate-Glazed Tart, 104, 105
Concord, Pie, 5 1
Cream Pies. 72-77
Baked Flaky Pastry. 22-23
Sauce C ckaigne, 8 3
Gelatin, soaking and dissolving, 78 Glaze, Chocolate Ganache. 24
Cream, 80
Buttermilk Chess Pie, 94
Chocoiale,
forming covered. 3 5 freezing, 45
t
shaving and mel ing , 1 06
Apples and. 5 3
Blueberries, 7 1
I
Basic Recipe. 36, 3 7
Cinnamon, 55
Apricot FrangipaneTan,
Broccoli Quiche,
Frosted Custard Pie, 86 Ganache Glaze, 24
Apples. 38
Deep-Dish Pie with Cheddar Crust,
Crusdess Fudge Pie, I 07
Ice Cream Pie. 82, 83
Crumb, 3 0
JeffDavis Pie, 94
Gluten Free, 2 9 lattice tops, 4 1
Key lime Pie. 1 0 0
making, 2 1 Meringue. 3 1
Lard Flaky Pastry Dough,
moisture proofing, 24
Leeks, 1 1 0
Nut, 30
puching blind
15
Tart (Flamiche aux Poireaux) . 1 1 0, I I I baked. 25
Lemons Angel Pie, 1 0 I
pat in the-pan, 26-27 prebaking and weighting. 2 2
zi
Chess Pie. 94
resting, storing. and free ng. 2 0
Chiffon Pie, 78
Shortbread, 28
Meringue Pie. 96-97, 98
Vegetable Oil, 2 9
Ohio Pie, 98, 99
Set
also Pastry, Flaky
Custard Pies, 8+-86
Tart, 1 0 1 Limes Chiffon Pie. 78
Egg safety, 79
Empanadas. 1 14, 1 1 5
Key, Pie. 1 0 0 linzertorte. 66. 6 7
Equipment, 1 0-1 1 Meat
Fontina Cheese andTomato Tart. 1 1 2
Empanadas, 1 1 4. 1 1 5
Fruit. Sle also specific fruits
Italian Pie (Pizza R
usrica) , 1 17
CreamTartletS. 5 8
Pasties. 1 2 3
Crostata. 6 9
Steak and Mushroom Pie. I 24. 1 2 5
Pastry CreamTan, 5 8 Fruit Pies. Set also s�dfic fruits b.king. 3 6
Tamale Pie, 1 1 6, 1 1 7
Meringues
lemon Pie, 96-97. 98
Pie Crust, 3 1
Chess, 93, 94-
Soft. Topping, 3 I
Chiffon, 7 8
Pie, 49 Strawberry Pie, 48,49
Mince Pie, 54, 55
Chocolate, 7 4 , 79-81, 86, 93, 102-107
Mousses
Sauces
Cream, 7 2-7 7
Caramel Cockaigne, 83
Chocolate Pie, 7 9
Custard, 84-86
Hard, 5 5
Chocolate with Gelatin, 7 9
Deep Dish. 52-53
Hot Brandy, 8 8
Fruit, 36, 3 7 , 44
Raspberry, I 0 1
J 24
Mushrooms,
and Steak Pie, 114, 1 2 5
Fudge. 1 0 7
Shoolly Pie, 9 3 , 95
Grape, 5 1
Shortbread Crust,
Nutmeg 86
Ice Cream, 82, 8 3
Sour Cream
Nuts.Ste also sptdfie nuts Crust, 3 0
Ilalian Meat JefTDavis, 94
Flaky Pastry Dough, [ 7
Lemon or lime, 96-1 0 1
(Pizza Rustca), 1 1 7
Pumpkin Pie, 90, 91 WhippedTopping, 64 Spinach and Cheese Pie (Spanakopita), 1 1 8. 1 1 9
Mince, 54, 55 Peanut Buner. 80
Paslies, l13 Pamy, Flaky,
Strawberries
Peach. 46,47,65
Pans, 1 0- 1 1
J 4-20 22-23
Pie. 6 0 . 6 1 Rhubarb Pie. 4 8 , 49
Pear. 53
Baked Crust,
Pecan. 92. 93
Streusel, 62 Sweet POtatoes
Basic Recipe, 1 5
Pumpkin. 88-91
Butter (PateBrisee), 1 2- 1 3 , 1 7
Raisin, SO
Pie, 90. 9 1
Cornmeal, 1 7
Rhubarb, 49
Pudding, 91
Cream Cheese, 1 8
Shoolly, 95
fats used in 1 6 fitting into pan, 20
Spinach and Cheese (Spanakopita).
making, 14, 1 6
Strawberry, 48, 49. 6 0 . 6 1
Nut, 1 7
Sweet Potato, 9 0 , 9 1
rolling out, 1 9
Pizza Rustica (Italian Meat Pie)
sweetening and favoring, 1 8
Pm Pies
Crusts, Baked Flaky Pastry, 2 3 Fruit Cream, 5 8 117
Whole-Wheat, 1 7
Chicken or Turkey, 1 20, 1 1 1
see also
Vegetable, with Cheddar Biscuit Crust.
Crusts
122.123
Peaches
I 16, I 1 7
Tardets
Tarts
Tamale. 1 1 6, 1 1 7
Sweet, 1 7
Tamale Pie, Tapioca, 34
1 1 8, 1 1 9 Steak and Mushroom. 114, 1 2 5
Lard, 15
28
Apricot Frangipane 6 1 Bittersweet Chocolate. 1 02-3. 1 0 6 Chard, I 1 3 Chocolate-Glazed Caramel, 1 04. 1 0 5 Fruit Pastry Cream, 5 8
Half-Covered Galeue, 7 I
Pudding, Sweet Potato, 9 1
Leek (Flanlicheaux Poireaux), 1 1 0, I I I
Open Faced Custard Pie, 65
Pumpkin, 88
Lemon, 1 0 1
peeling, 65
Pie. 88, 89
Linzertorte, 6 6 . 6 7
Pies, 46,47,65
Sour Cream Pie, 90. 91
Pear Streusel, 6 2 , 63 Raspberry Slreusel 62
PeanUl Buuer Pie, 80 Pears, 62
QUiches
Deep Dish Pie with Cranberries and Apples. 5 3 StreusclTart, 61,63
Pecans
Broccoli 1 1 0 Ham and Cheese, 1 I 0 Lorraine. 1 08-9. 1 1 0 Tomato and Goat Cheese, I 1 3
Chocolate Pie, 93
Tomato and Fontina Cheese. 1 1 1 and Fontina Cheese Tart. 1 1 1 and Goat Cheese Quiche,
I 13
Turkey Pot Pie, 120, 1 2 1
Raisins, SO
Pie, 92, 93 PhylJo, 1 1 9
Pie, 5 0
Pie crusts, see Crusts; Pastry, Flaky
Raspberries Half-Covered Galette. 70, 7 1
Pies Apple, 3 8 , 40,
TarteTatin,56-57.64 T omatoes
52
Blac.k Bottom, 7 6 , 77 Blueberry, 32-33,40 Cherry. 42, 43. 45
Linzertorte, 66, 6 7
Vanilla Cream Pie,
n. 74-
Vegetable Oil Crust 29 Vegetable Pot Pie with Cheddar Biscuit Crust. 112, 1 2 3
Sauce, 1 0 1 StreuselTart, 62 Rhubarb
Whipped Cream, 7 6 Whole Wheat flaky Pastry Dough, 1 7
INDEX 1 27
Acknowl edgments Special thanks to my wife and editor in residence, Susan; and our friends and agents, Gene Winick and Sam Pinkus. Much appreciation also goes to Simon & Schuster, Scribner, and Weldon Owen for their devotion to this project. Thank you Carolyn, Susan, Beth, Rica, Bill, Moroh, John, Terry, Roger. Gaye, Vol, and all the other capable and talented folks who gave a port of themselves to the J oy of Cook ng All About series. My eternal appreciation goes to the food experts, writers, and editors whose contributions and
collaborations are at the heart ofJoy
especiolly Stephen Schmidt. He was to the
1 997
edition
whot Chef Pierre Adrian was to Mom's (tnal editions of Joy. Thank you one and all. Ethan Becker
FOOD EXPERTS. WRITERS, AND EDITORS S elma Abra m s, Jady Adoms, Somio Ahod Bruce A idells, Katherine Alford, Deirdre Allen, Pom Anderson, Elizabeth Andoh, Phillip Andres, Alice Arndt, John Ash Noncy Boggett Rick and Deonn Bayless, Lee E Benning Rose Levy 8eranboum Brigit Legere Binns, Jock Bishop, Corole Bloom, Arthur Boehm. Ed Brown, jeanMarie Brownson, Lorry Catanzaro, Vol Cipollone, Polly Clingerman, Elaine Corn, Bruce Cost. Amy Cotler, B rion Crawley, Gail Damerow, Lindo Do nn, D eirdre Davis, jane S pencer Davis, Erica De Mane Susan Derecskey Abiga iljohnson Dodge,jim Dodge, A urora Esther, Michele Fagerroos, Eva Forson, Ma rgaret Fox, B et ty Fussel' Mary Gilbert, Dorm Goldst ein, E la in e Go nzalez, Dorie Greenspon Mono Guornaschelli, Helen Gustafson, Pot Ho ley, Gord on Hamersley, M elissa Hamilton, jessica Har ris, Hollie Harron, Nao Houser, Willia m H oy, Lorry H oyden, Kate Hays, Marcello Hazan, Tim Healea, jan ie H ib ler, Lee Hofstetter, Paulo Hogan, Rosemary Howe, M ik e Hughes,jennifer H umphr ies, Dona jacob ,i Stephen j ohnson, Lynne Rossetto Kasper; Denis Kelly, Fran Kennedy,johanne Killeen and George Germ on, Shirley King, Mayo Klein, Dion e M Kochila s, PhylliS Kohn, Aglaia Kremezl, Mildred Kroll, Loni Kuhn, Corby Kummer, Virginia Law rence, jill Leigh, Koren Levin, Lori Longbotham Susan Hermann Loomis, E m ily L uch etti, S tephanie Lyness, Koren MacN eil, Deborah Madison, Lindo Marino, Kathleen McAndrews, Alice Medrich, Anne M endelson, L isa M onten egro, Cindy Mushet Marion Nestle, Toby Oksman,joyce O'Neill, Suzen O'Rourke, Russ Parsons, Holly Pearson,
james Peterson, Morino Petrokos, Mary Placek. Maricel P resil la, Marion K. Pruitt Adom Rapoport, Mardee Haidin R egan Peter Reinhart, Sarah Anne Reynolds, Madge R osenbe rg, Nicole R outh ier;jon R owley, Nancy Ross Ryan Chris Schlesinger; Stephen Schmidt Lisa Schumacher, M arie Simm ons, N na Si m onds, A Cart S inn es, S ue Spitler, Marah Stets, M olly S teven s, Christopher Stoye, Susan Stuck. Sylvia Thomp son, jean and Pierre Trolsgros,jillVan Cleave Patricia Wells, Lourie Wenk Caroline Wheoton jasperWhite jonothan White, Mari lyn Wilkens on, Carlo Williams, Virginia Willis, john Willoughby, Deborah Winson, L isa Yockelson
Weldon Owen wishes to thank the following people for their generous assistance and support in producing this book Desne Ahlers, Brynn Breuner Ken Del/oPenta, Arin Hailey, and Norman Kolpos. The photographers wish to thank Chomp DeMar, Son Francisco; Caruso/Woods, Santo Barbaro; Beau R,vage, Santo Barbara; Nancy White; RubyLane.com; and Chrome Works.
1 28 PIES & TARTS
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Recipes for all of the pies and tarts the American home cook will ever need: covered fruit pies; single-crust fruit pies and tarts; cream and chiffon pies; custard pies; and chocolate, citrus, and savory pies and tarts
•
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