Frommer's Chicago with Kids, 4th Ed (Frommer's With Kids)

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Chicago with Kids

4th Edition

by Laura Tiebert Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —BOOKLIST

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —GLAMOUR MAGAZINE

“Hotel information is close to ency clopedic.” —DES MOINES SUNDAY REGISTER

“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving y ou a real feel for a place.” —KNIGHT RIDDER NEWSPAPERS

A B O U T T H E AU T H O R Laura Tiebert is a freelance writer whose travels have taken her from the frozen tundra of Dawson City in Yukon Territory to the wide beaches of Muscat, Oman. A native Midwesterner, she lived in N ew York City for y ears before returning to Chicago . Today, she stays a bit closer to home in Wilmette, Illinois, where she lives with her husband, Andrew, and two young sons.

Published by:

WILEY PUBLISHING, INC. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2009 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights r eserved. No part of this publication may be r eproduced, stored in a r etrieval system or transmitted in any form or b y any means, electr onic, mechanical, photocopying, r ecording, scanning or other wise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 U nited States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the P ublisher, or authorization thr ough payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, 201/748-6011, fax 201/748-6008, or online at http://www .wiley.com/go/ permissions. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any pr oduct or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 978-0-470-39324-6 Editor: William Travis Production Editor: M. Faunette Johnston Cartographer: Guy Ruggiero Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: The Loop Kapoor Sculpture Cloud: Children looking at their reflections Back cover photo: Chicago skyline For information on our other pr oducts and services or to obtain technical suppor t, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 877/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/ 572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a v ariety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 54321

CONTENTS

LIST OF MAPS

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1 HOW TO FEEL LIKE A CHICAGO FAMILY 1 Favorite Chicago Family Experiences. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 2 The Best Hotel Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

The Best Chicago Websites . . . . . . . . . . . 7 3 The Best Dining Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

2 PLANNING A FAMILY TRIP TO CHICAGO 1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Destination Chicago: Red Alert Checklist. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 2 What to Pack. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Flying or Driving with Kids . . . . . . . . . . 15 3 Entry Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 Cut to the Front of the Airport Security Line as a Registered Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 4 When to Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Kids’ Favorite Chicago Events . . . . . . . 19 5 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Air Travel Security Measures. . . . . . . . . 30 In-Flight Fun for Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Flying with Film & Video. . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 6 Money & Costs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 What Things Cost in Chicago . . . . . . . 41 7 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

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8 Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 9 Sustainable Tourism. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 It’s Easy Being Green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 1 0 Traveling Safely with Kids in Chicago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 1 1 Staying Connected. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47 1 2 Getting to Know Chicago . . . . . . . . .48 A River Runs Through It . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Neighborhoods in Brief. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Frommer’s Favorite Oh-SoChicago Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 1 3 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 Sky Train: Chicago’s El . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 1 4 Getting Kids Interested in Chicago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65

3 SUGGESTED CHICAGO ITINERARIES 1 The Best of Chicago in 1 Day. . . . . .66 2 The Best of Chicago in 2 Days . . . . .70

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3 The Best of Chicago in 3 Days . . . . .71

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4 FAMILY-FRIENDLY ACCOMMODATIONS Major Convention Dates . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 1 The Loop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75 2 South Loop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82 3 Near North & the Magnificent Mile. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84

Making the Most of the Concierge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 4 River North . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 5 The Gold Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 6 Lincoln Park & the North Side . . . 101

CO N T E N T S

C H I C AG O W I T H K I D S

5 FAMILY-FRIENDLY DINING 1 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . . . . . 108 2 The Loop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Ethnic Dining near the Loop . . . . . . .114 Suburban Safaris. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .121 3 West Loop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 4 The Magnificent Mile & the Gold Coast. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Dining Out in (Relative) Peace . . . . .124

107 5 River North . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Breakfast & Brunch. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132 6 Lincoln Park. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 Dining Alfresco. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .144 7 Wrigleyville & the North Side. . . . 148 8 Wicker Park/Bucktown . . . . . . . . . . 150 9 Only in Chicago. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154

6 EXPLORING CHICAGO WITH YOUR KIDS 1 Sights by Neighborhood . . . . . . . . 156 2 Kids’ Top 10 Attractions . . . . . . . . . 157 Do-It-Yourself Sightseeing. . . . . . . . . .166 Museum Free Days. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .175 3 Best Views . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 4 More Chicago Museums . . . . . . . . 178 For Train Lovers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .188 5 Best Rides. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190

7 NEIGHBORHOOD STROLLS 1 Near North/Magnificent Mile. . . . 208 Walk This Way: Chicago’s Underground Pedway . . . . . . . . . . . . .209 2 The Loop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 3 The Gold Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 4 Old Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211

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6 Historic Houses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 The (Frank Lloyd) Wright Stuff. . . . . .192 The Pride of Prairie Avenue . . . . . . . . .196 7 Zoos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 8 Gardens & Conservatories . . . . . . . 199 9 Nature Centers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 1 0 Water Parks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 1 1 Kid-Friendly Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201

208 Chicago & the Great Black Migration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .212 5 Lincoln Park. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 6 Andersonville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 7 Bucktown/Wicker Park . . . . . . . . . . 215

8 FOR THE ACTIVE FAMILY

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1 Enjoying Chicago’s Beaches . . . . . 216 2 Green Chicago: City Parks . . . . . . . 217 3 Playgrounds in the City Center . . . 222

4 Sports & Games . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 5 Indoor Playgrounds . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 6 Classes & Workshops . . . . . . . . . . . . 230

9 SHOPPING WITH YOUR KIDS 1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 2 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241

232 From Chicago with Love . . . . . . . . . . .246

282 4 DuPage Children’s Museum . . . . . 286 5 Wonder Works . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287 6 Cuneo Museum & Gardens. . . . . . 288

APPENDIX: FAST FACTS, TOLL-FREE NUMBERS & WEBSITES 1 Fast Facts: Chicago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289

INDEX General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298 Accommodations Index. . . . . . . . . 307

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2 Toll-Free Numbers & Websites . . . 295

298 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308

CO N T E N T S

4 Concerts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 Chuckling the Night Away at a Comedy Club . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .272 5 Movies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 6 Dance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 7 Puppet Shows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 8 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277 9 Story Hours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 1 0 Arcades . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280

11 SIDE TRIPS FROM CHICAGO 1 Indiana Dunes State Park. . . . . . . . 282 2 Kohl Children’s Museum. . . . . . . . . 283 3 Chicago Botanic Garden . . . . . . . . 285

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10 ENTERTAINMENT FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY Scoring the Elusive Ticket. . . . . . . . . . .258 1 The Big Venues. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259 Going to the Show by El or Bus. . . . .260 If You Have a Sitter: The Music Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .262 2 Seasonal Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 3 Theater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267 A Brief Primer on Theater Etiquette for Kids. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .269

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LIST OF MAPS Chicago & Vicinity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Chicago Neighborhoods . . . . . . . . . . 53 Downtown El & Subway Stations . . .61 Suggested Chicago Itineraries . . . . 68 Central Chicago Accommodations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Near North & River North Accommodations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Lincoln Park & North Side Accommodations . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Central Chicago Dining . . . . . . . . . . 112 Dining in Lincoln Park & Wrigleyville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Dining in Wicker Park/ Bucktown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Central Chicago Attractions . . . . . . 158 South Michigan Avenue & Grant Park Attractions . . . . . . . . 161

Hyde Park Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . 163 The Field Museum of Natural History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 The Loop Sculpture Tour . . . . . . . . . 169 Museum of Science & Industry . . . 172 Oak Park Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 Lincoln Park Zoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 Grant Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 Lincoln Park. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Magnificent Mile Shopping . . . . . . 233 Shopping in Wicker Park/ Bucktown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 Entertainment in the Loop & Magnificent Mile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254 Entertainment in Lincoln Park & Wrigleyville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256

A N I N V I TAT I O N TO T H E R E A D E R In researching this book, w e discovered many wonder ful places—hotels, r estaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Chicago with Kids, 4th Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

A N A D D I T I O N A L N OT E Please be advised that trav el information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held r esponsible for the experiences of r eaders while trav eling. Your safety is impor tant to us, ho wever, so w e encourage you to stay aler t and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close ey e on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.

Other Great Guides for Your Trip: Frommer’s Chicago Frommer’s Memorable Walks in Chicago Frommer’s Irreverent Guide Chicago Frommer’s Portable Chicago Chicago For Dummies Frommer’s Chicago Day by Day The Unofficial Guide to Chicago

F R O M M E R ’S S TA R R AT I N G S, I CO N S & A B B R E V I AT I O N S Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality , value, service, amenities, and special featur es using a star-rating system. I n countr y, state, and regional guides, w e also rate to wns and r egions to help y ou narrow down your choices and budget y our time accor dingly. H otels and r estaurants ar e rated on a scale of z ero (r ecommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, to wns, and regions are rated accor ding to the follo wing scale: z ero stars (r ecommended), one star (highly r ecommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, w e also use six feature icons that point y ou to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate trav elers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for:

Finds

Special finds—those places only insiders kno w about

Fun Facts

Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

Moments

Special moments—those experiences that memories ar e made of

Overrated

Places or experiences not wor th your time or money

Tips

Insider tips—great ways to save time and money

Value

Great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC D iscover DC D iners Club MC M asterCard

V Visa

F R O M M E R S.CO M Now that y ou have this guidebook to help y ou plan a gr eat trip, visit our w ebsite at www . frommers.com for additional travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features r egularly to giv e y ou instant access to the most curr ent trip-planning information available. A t Frommers.com, y ou’ll find scoops on the best air fares, lodging rates, and car rental bargains. You can ev en book y our trav el online thr ough our r eliable trav el booking partners. Other popular features include: • • • • • •

Online updates of our most popular guidebooks Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways Newsletters highlighting the hottest travel trends Podcasts, interactive maps, and up-to-the-minute events listings Opinionated blog entries by Arthur Frommer himself Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions

How to Feel Like a Chicago Family What’s the best par t about visiting Chicago with y our k ids? On the

positive side, Chicago is a big city . You’ll find a rich div ersity of cultures and languages and the oppor tunity to expose y our kids to many differ ent sights, sounds, and people. Free activities abound: P arks, a z oo, and the beach ar e a fe w of Chicago kids ’ favorite things—and they won’t cost you a penny. Transportation is easy: Kids love the “El,” carriage rides, trolley cars, and buses. And most activities are located around a compact city center—a brief bus or train ride fr om hotels on the M agnificent Mile, in Riv er North, or the Loop will get y ou to any of the do wntown museums or the Lincoln P ark Zoo. You’ll always find a coffee shop just ar ound the corner, great restaurants and shopping, and miles of walkable terrain for y ou and your kids. The negatives? Again, Chicago is a big city. Streets, shops, and museums can get crowded in the summer. Panhandlers can be a problem in certain congested downtown areas. Traffic can be hazar dous—you’ll need to be extra car eful around busy intersections. ( Warning: Cabs will not slow down for anyone—even families with kids.) The El is not always strollerfriendly and getting thr ough the station onto the train can be challenging. You may find yourself having to walk up flights of stairs carr ying the diaper bag, stroller, and more. Is it worth it? Millions of visitors who flock to our city ev ery year can’t be wrong. As I wrote the first edition of this book, my husband and I were preparing to welcome our first child. As I write the four th edition, we are seasoned parents of two, and w e’ve road-tested many of this ne w edition’s suggestions for experiencing Chicago with kids. As we became part of the community of Chicago parents, many of them shared valuable been-there, done-that advice. I have those Chicago parents to thank for the wide variety of activities and opinions you’ll find in these pages. In this book I am wor king on thr ee assumptions: O ne is that when y ou travel with kids, there has to be something in it for them. You can’t expect kids to enjo y a vacation filled with adult activities. (I n fact, take a kid into a fancy depar tment store or to a fine French restaurant and the par ents are unlikely to enjo y it either!) B ut while we want to keep the kids happy , the goal of this book is to find activities that offer something for parents and kids alike. The second assumption is a pr eference for the simple o ver the complex. Take your 3-year-old to the zoo and she may wind up spending more time watching squirrels chase each other across the lawn than the big cats emerging fr om their dens. And that ’s okay. Later on, she ’ll appr eciate the larger animals! I n this book I emphasiz e some off-thebeaten track, simple (and often inexpensiv e) ideas for enter taining your kids. M any of these ideas have been contributed by a cadre of Chicago parents. The third is that y ou will seek out activities that ar e unique to Chicago . Now, some people are comfortable going to Hard Rock Cafe or Six Flags because they have them in their own city—and their kids like that sor t of predictability. More power to you—and those places are certainly listed in this guidebook. M y focus, however, is on transpor tation, museums, and food that say “Chicago .”

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Insiders in the travel business sometimes whisper that Chicago is to the United States as Frankfurt, Germany, is to E urope: a hub for conv entions, a business destination, but otherwise often consider ed flyover or airpor t layover territory. In this book I intend to demonstrate to ev en the most sophisticated trav elers that Chicago is a wor thy destination. This city can be a magical place for families, filled with new discoveries and favorite places y ou’ll want to visit again and again o ver the y ears. M any of my friends r ecall annual trips to Chicago with great fondness. Colleen Moore’s Fairy Castle at the Museum of Science and Industry, Buckingham Fountain’s invigorating spray on a windy day—for this generation, Millennium Park’s bedazzling “bean” sculpture and its fun-house r eflections will become part of your family lore as well.

1 FAV O R I T E C H I C AG O FA M I LY E X P E R I E N C E S Chicago has made vast strides in beautifying the city and developing visitor-friendly attractions. M illennium P ark, a worldclass destination on 25 acr es near M ichigan Avenue and the Art Institute, is one of the city ’s biggest tourist attractions. The architectural highlight of the par k is the Frank G ehry–designed P ritzker M usic Pavilion, home of the fr ee summer music concerts per formed b y the G rant P ark Symphony O rchestra. Another popular attraction is the huge elliptical sculptur e Cloudgate (immediately dubbed “the bean” by Chicagoans) b y B ritish ar tist Anish Kapoor—his first public work in the U.S. The dazzling $450-million par k added to the already excellent facilities for families, including Museum Campus, no w (in my humble opinion) the number-one collection of museums on one walkable campus in the countr y. The city cr eated the campus by linking three great Chicago institutions—the F ield M useum of N atural History, J ohn G. S hedd A quarium, and Adler P lanetarium & Astr onomy Museum—by r erouting major str eets to make the area more pedestrian-friendly. Chicago continues to wor k on its cultural institutions, many of which hav e launched fundraising driv es to impr ove and enhance their facilities for visitors. Navy Pier was rehabilitated and opened in the mid-1990s, quickly becoming the city’s number-one tourist destination. The

North Loop theater district has risen from a decades-long slumber . And the r etail expansion along the city ’s fabled Magnificent Mile has y et to slo w down. Is it any wonder that nativ es of the city hav e the reputation of nev er wanting to liv e anywhere else? From the simple pleasur es of summer baseball to the complexities of the world of science, her e ar e my fav orite Chicago experiences for families: • Encountering Jurassic Wonders: Sue, the largest T-rex skeleton ev er unco vered, has made the F ield Museum her home. (D on’t be taken aback b y her intimidating presence in the museum ’s grand entry hall.) But don’t be surprised if your kids ar e just as much in aw e of the Field’s many classic kid charmers: a life-size E gyptian tomb , r ooms of glittering gemstones, the r oyal Camer oon palace fr om Africa, and hundr eds of stuffed animals (not of the teddy bear variety) in their habitat. B eware of the Field’s mesmerizing qualities on adults and kids alike: A friend of mine began meditating in an I ndian tepee, only to open his ey es and find the museum closed! See p. 162. • Exploring Underwater Life: Most kids have a fascination for life under the sea, and an afternoon watching dolphins frolic and color ful tr opical fish swim

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• Riding the “El”: L is not only the 12th letter of the alphabet, but also the greatest, least expensiv e enter tainment your kids will enjoy in Chicago. Fares for the El (and for CTA buses) are $2, with an additional 25¢ for a transfer that allows CTA riders to make two transfers on the bus or El within 2 hours of r eceipt. Children 6 and under ride fr ee, and those between the ages of 7 and 11 pay $1. H op a southbound B rown Line elevated train to ward the Loop , and watch the city unfold as the train crosses the Chicago River and screeches through downtown canyons. See “KidFriendly Tours,” in chapter 6. • Cruising Chicago ’s Waterways: A Chicago River cr uise should be one of your first stops in our fair city . I didn’t step aboard until I’d lived in the city for 2 years—and boy, did I miss out! Kids and adults alike will lo ve the Chicago Architecture F oundation’s riv er cr uise. Or head to N avy Pier and hop on one of the myriad vessels that stand ready to chauffeur y ou ar ound Lake M ichigan. Whatever way you go, the best v antage point for vie wing Chicago ’s worldrenowned architecture is from the water. See “Kid-Friendly Tours,” in chapter 6. • Ogling O ur I nland O cean: Chicago’s magnificent lakefr ont is an emerald strand of parks and sand beaches, linked by running, walking, rollerblading, and biking trails. You’ll appreciate the for esight of Chicago’s forefathers even more when y ou compar e our fr ee and open public lakefront to that of other G reat Lakes cities like Toronto, wher e much of the lakefr ont is used for industrial purposes or is priv ately owned. And at 22,300 square miles in siz e and r eaching depths of 900 feet, our gr eat lake will look mor e like the ocean to y our kids. I t’s the only G reat Lake that lies wholly in U.S. territory, and Chicago is blessed with 29 miles of lakefr ont for biking, ’blading, or simply being. So get

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circles around a mammoth tank is sur e to enthrall. J ohn G. S hedd A quarium, with its all-time-fav orite dolphin sho w and precious beluga whales, is a surefire winner with kids. See p. 165. • Marveling at the I nnovations of Science and Industry: You can’t go wrong at the Museum of Science and Industry, Chicago’s per ennial kids ’ fav orite. Watch chicks hatch in an incubator . Catch an IMAX mo vie at the H enry Crown space theater . S tep aboar d a retired 727 U nited Airlines jetliner . Travel deep into a replica of a Southern Illinois coal mine. And explor e the newly restored and always classic exhibit of a captured German U-boat. With so much to do, y ou might want to divide and conquer b y spending a couple of afternoons here. See p. 170. • Taking to the Water from Navy Pier: Chicago’s number-one tourist attraction is home to another kids’ favorite— the Chicago Childr en’s Museum. Navy Pier is also the jumping-off point for many of the boat tours of Lake M ichigan, so find a v essel that’s y our speed, from powerboats to tall-masted schooners, and take to the water! S ee p. 174. • Talking to the Animals: Located within Chicago’s famous lakefront park, the Lincoln P ark Z oo is conv enient, compact, and charming. And what ’s not to lo ve about a place that ’s open 365 days a year and never charges a cent for admission? This, the nation’s oldest zoo, is famous for its major collection of gorillas, who liv e in the ne wly r ebuilt Great Ape House, which giv es its r esidents mor e outdoor living space (and the ability to control the temperature in their habitat, believ e it or not). The adjoining F arm-in-the-Zoo allo ws urban kids to wander a wor king farm and meet cows, pigs, horses, chicks, and goats. A t Pritzker Children’s Zoo, kids can watch otters play and pet tor toises. See p. 197.

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THE BEST HOTEL BETS

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out there and enjoy the country’s “third • Rooting for the H ome Team: Win or lose (and sorry to say, historically speakcoast.” See “Enjoying the ‘Third Coast’: ing, it’s usually lose—but as always, this Chicago’s Beaches,” in chapter 8. may be our year!), an afternoon at Wrig• Getting the B lues: E ven kids can get ley Field is a thrill for kids and adults the blues, thanks to alcohol- and smokealike. Even if the C ubbies aren’t hitting free nights at B lue Chicago (p . 270), them out of the park, hot dogs, peanuts one of the city’s many fabled blues venin the shell, and a r ousing rendition of ues. The blues is the first original music “Take Me Out to the Ballgame” are sure of America and the basis for r ock ‘ n’ to please. This most charming of majorroll. It’s an authentic piece of Chicago ’s league ballparks is a slice of Americana heart and soul that y ou absolutely that y ou should not miss. O ne aftershould not miss. I f y ou want to learn noon spent in the embrace of the more befor e y our arriv al in Chicago, Friendly Confines will have you hooked read Blues for Dummies, written b y the on the sheer magic of Wrigley Field. See father-and-son team of Lonnie B rooks p. 278. and Wayne Baker Brooks, two of Chicago’s beloved blues musicians.

2 THE BEST HOTEL BETS Renovation, expansion, and new construction hav e been the name of the game in the Chicago lodging world for sev eral years. F rom hip boutique hotels to huge facilities for conv ention-goers, plus a nice crop of family-friendly hotels, y ou’ll find something to suit y our needs. The downside: R oom rates keep rising, making budget lodgings har der to find. O n the luxury-hotel fr ont, Trump I nternational Hotel and Tower has opened to impressive reviews (and impr essive prices), while the former House of Blues Hotel underwent a major r enovation to become bohemian Hotel S ax. F amily-friendly options abound, with mainstays like the familyowned Talbott Hotel offering large suites, some with multiple bathr ooms. The hotel is ideally located near M ichigan A venue shopping (p. 93). • Most F amily-Friendly: W ith cribs, laundry ser vice, fr ee br eakfast, and every room a suite, the Embassy Suites Hotel Chicago—D owntown, 600 N. State St. ( & 800/362-2779), or its sister hotel, Embassy S uites H otel Chicago—Downtown/Lakeshore, 511 N. Columbus Dr. (& 312/836-5900), are

ideal for families looking for a little more space than the typical hotel r oom provides. The in-r oom N intendo, indoor pool, and location near a couple of popular kid-friendly v enues—ESPN Zone and the Hard Rock Cafe—should keep Junior happy, too. (The Lakeshore hotel also has a wonderful location near Navy P ier and in a complex that includes a huge cinema and P.J. Clarke’s restaurant.) See p. 97. • Newer Family-Friendly Hotel: I always say that any hotel that ’s built recently is a good bet. N ew constr uction means fresh linens, fr esh decor, updated heating and cooling systems—y ou get my drift. Although it’s a couple of y ears old now, you’ll still get all these benefits at the city ’s most r ecent family-friendly addition, Four P oints b y S heraton— Chicago Downtown/Magnificent Mile (630 N. R ush St. ( & 312/981-6600), plus a great location just 1 block west of Michigan A venue in the hear t of the Magnificent M ile. There’s also a pool, where you and the kids can unwind after a busy day of touring. S ee p. 95.

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The Best Chicago Websites

• www.chicago.citysearch.com off ers r eviews of r estaurants, bars , sho ws, and shops.

H O W TO F E E L L I K E A C H I C AG O FA M I LY

The World Wide Web makes vacation planning simple . These Chicago-based sites pr ovide up -to-date listings on ev erything fr om r estaurants t o walk ing tours. • www.choosechicago.com is y our best bet f or c omprehensive t ourism information on hot els, special pr omotions, and cit ywide ev ents fr om the Chicago C onvention & Tourism Bur eau (and & 877/CHICAGO [244-2246] also happens to be the phone number for the bureau’s tourism information line).

• Two good general sit es ar e www.explorechicago.org ( Chicago O ffice of Tourism) and www.enjoyillinois.com (I llinois Bureau of Tourism).

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• www.metromix.com is the Chicago Tribune’s ent ertainment-oriented sit e. • www.encyclopediaofchicago.com is a c ollaboration bet ween the Newberry Librar y and the Chicago H istorical S ociety that is chock -full of fun facts and useful inf ormation about our cit y’s history, architecture, and the lives of some of our cit y’s famous and infamous personalities .

its small size—and sense of whimsy—to cater to kids. Hotel B urnham, 1 W. Washington, at S tate S treet ( & 877/ 294-9712), keeps wee ones entertained with special offers for tea at American Girl Place Cafe and deals at the museums and theaters. D uring holidays, you’ll find special activities in the hotel lobby, including decorating gingerbread men at Christmas and hunting for eggs at Easter. Diaper bags, cribs, highchairs, changing tables, and mor e are available upon r equest. R ooms ar e clubb y but glamorous, with plush beds, mahogany writing desks, and chaise longues— even the family pet is w elcome. S ee p. 79. • When Price Is No Object: The attention to detail, r egal pampering, and well-connected concierges you will find at both the ultralux e Ritz-Carlton Chicago, 160 E. P earson St. ( & 800/ 621-6906; p . 88), and Four S easons Hotel Chicago, 120 E. Delaware Place

THE BEST HOTEL BETS

• Best N eighborhood H otel: Childr en 12 and under stay fr ee at Best Western Hawthorne T errace Hotel, 3434 N. Broadway ( & 888/401-8781). Rooms in this small hotel (just 59 r ooms and junior suites) hav e refrigerators, microwaves, and irons. Best of all, par king is a bargain at $20 a day—about half the going rate at Chicago ’s do wntown hotels. See p. 104. • Best Views: This isn’t an easy call. The astounding altitude offer ed b y the Trump International Plaza Hotel and Tower, 401 N. Wabash ( & 877/4587867), plus its riv erside per ch, make this hotel a str ong new contender. But consider sev eral other hotels for their mix of lake and city vie ws: Four S easons H otel Chicago (p . 84), The Drake (p . 89), the Ritz-Carlton Chicago (p. 88), and Park Hyatt Chicago (p. 86). • When H ipness I s I mportant: A hip hotel that’s known for romance is using

H O W TO F E E L L I K E A C H I C AG O FA M I LY

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THE BEST DINING BETS

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(& 800/332-3442; p. 84), make them the hotels of choice for trav elers who want to feel like r oyalty while in to wn. the Peninsula Chicago, 108 E. S uperior S t. ( & 866/288-8889; p. 88), is also a major play er on the luxury scene in Chicago. • When Price Is Your Main Object: Red Roof Inn Chicago Downtown, 162 E. Ontario St. ( & 800/733-7663; p. 97), offers a fabulous location for a bargain price. But the Hampton Inn & Suites Chicago—Downtown, 33 W. I llinois St. ( & 800/HAMPTON [426-7866]; p. 99), gets bonus points for being a bargain stay, plus having a pool, which is not the case with many do wntown chains. • Best P ool: With its dazzling all-tile junior O lympic–size pool, constr ucted in 1929, the InterContinental Chicago, 505 N. M ichigan Ave. ( & 800/ 327-0200), takes this awar d easily. See p. 90. • Best H otel R estaurant for K ids: Go for Atwood Cafe, the stylish and funky

restaurant fr onting S tate S treet inside the Hotel Burnham, 1 W. Washington (& 877/294-9712). Amazingly , this eclectic r estaurant with a gr own-up sophistication w elcomes kids and features a special kids’ menu. See p. 111. • Tops for Teens: For a bohemian boutique feel, the Hotel Sax, 333 N. Dearborn S t. ( & 800/235-6397), can’t be beat, and its access to nearb y House of Blues and 10pin Bo wling Alley should score with teens, too . See p. 98. Teens might also enjo y the r ock-‘n’-roll attitude of the Hard Rock Hotel Chicago, 230 N. M ichigan A ve. ( & 866/9665166), in the historic, distinctiv e, and recently renovated Carbon Carbide skyscraper. See p. 78. • Tops for Toddlers: Homewood Suites, 40 E. G rand A ve. ( & 800/CALLHOME [225-5466]), offers cribs, highchairs, and bab ysitting ser vices in a great location in River North—all great amenities for the toddling set. S ee p. 96.

3 THE BEST DINING BETS With pizza and hot dogs among the city ’s signature dishes, Chicago is food heav en for kids. Before you run out and buy a case of antacids, however, take hear t: Wonderful cuisine to please adults abounds, too . And I’m going to send y ou in that dir ection, right after I grab a garlic- and pepper-laden hot dog. • Best Views: A location right on the Magnificent M ile means the obser vation deck of the Hancock O bservatory, 875 N. Michigan Ave., is the ideal spot to get an up-close-and-personal view of the M agnificent M ile and its many high-rises. F or lunch, visit the observatory’s Signature R oom at the 95th (& 312/787-9596), a sleek r estaurant that ser ves a discounted lunch buffet for kids. O n a clear day y ou can

see 50 miles and part of three surrounding states—M ichigan, I ndiana, and Wisconsin. (M oms and daughters, make sur e to visit the women ’s r estroom—it’s got the best vie ws in the restaurant!) See p. 175. • Best I ce C ream: S ince the 1920s, Margie’s C andies, 1960 N. Western Ave., at Armitage A venue in Bucktown (& 773/384-1035), has been ser ving up mammoth sundaes in conch shell– shaped dishes. You might still find family members manning the cash r egister. Don’t miss the homemade hot fudge, real butterscotch, and caramel. The place hasn’t changed much since 1940, and is stuffed with kitschy dolls, bo xes of homemade candy , stuffed animals, and news clippings through the years. A

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1 THE BEST DINING BETS

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peas over rice), grilled ham, corn muffins, and home fries among the offerings. See p. 122. Best Burgers: The hamburger at Mike Ditka’s R estaurant, 100 E. Chestnut St. (& 312/587-8989), tastes more like chopped steak and can easily feed two . Sports fans will be enter tained by football memorabilia and B ears fans can relive the glor y days of former Coach Mike Ditka, who o wns the place. Take your kids to the main-lev el dining room, though, because the upstairs dining area is a little mor e adult-oriented, with liv e musical enter tainment that tends to ward F rank S inatra fav orites (and, often, bachelor par ties dining in the adjacent priv ate r ooms). S ee p. 124. Best B arbecue: O ld Town neighborhood institution Twin Anchors Tavern (1655 N. S edgwick S t., & 312/2661616) is as unpr etentious as its ribs ar e delicious. Tender bab y back por k ribs and crispy onion rings are accompanied by coleslaw and dar k r ye br ead. Kids will go for the burgers and the daily cheesecake special. G et there early and grab a r ed formica-topped table in the back room, away from the bar area. See p. 148. Best B reakfast: Although the r estaurant is located in the young professional haven of Lincoln P ark, par ents r eport that the managers and staff at Toast, 746 W. Webster S t., at H alsted S treet (& 773/935-5600), are baby- and kidcrazy. The pancakes and waffles ar e pretty crazy, too: S tacks arriv e co vered in fr uit, y ogurt, po wdered sugar , and more. Go for brunch starting at 8am on weekends. See p. 147. Best Family-Style Dining: Maggiano’s Little Italy, 516 N. Clar k St. ( & 312/ 644-7700), is a mecca for I talian family-style dining. Heaping plates of pasta meant to be shar ed make M aggiano’s a good choice for a budget-conscious

H O W TO F E E L L I K E A C H I C AG O FA M I LY

second location, with a homey , r etro decor, has opened in the N orth Center neighborhood at 1813 W. M ontrose Ave. (& 773/348-0400). See p. 250. • Best Outdoor Eating: Long tables and family-style dining reign in Greektown, making it a comfor table and fun destination for families and large groups; see “The West Loop ,” in chapter 5. A t Pegasus, 130 S. H alsted S t. ( & 312/ 226-3377), a r ooftop gar den pr ovides diners with a panoramic vie w of the Chicago skyline. The r estaurant is so family- and large gr oup–oriented, in fact, that when I called to make a reservation for a gr oup of 10, the host replied, “ Ten is not a big gr oup!” S ee p. 115. • Most Kid-Friendly Service: Scoozi, an Italian restaurant in River North at 410 W. H uron ( & 312/943-5900), is a family favorite for its Sunday-afternoon pizza-making event that lets kids loose with tomato sauce and cheese to cr eate their own pizzas (under the super vision of Scoozi chefs, who keep mess to a minimum and pop finished pizzas into the wood-burning o ven). The ev ening is gr eat for par ents, too—they get a short break while their kids play chef to enjoy their meal and some gr own-up conversation. M ake a r eservation, because your window of opportunity is small: The restaurant runs the program on S unday only , fr om 5 to 6:30pm, and it’s free for kids 11 and under . See p. 134. • Best K ids’ M enu: H ow many times have y ou seen the big thr ee on kids ’ menus? B urgers, chicken fingers, and buttered noodles ar e gr eat, but when you want to expand y our horiz ons (just a little), head for Wishbone, 1001 Washington S t., at M organ S treet (& 312/850-2663), or 3300 N. Lincoln A ve. ( & 773/549-2663). Y ou’ll find a little S outhern flair to the kids ’ menu, with hoppin ’ J ohn (black-ey ed

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THE BEST DINING BETS

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family. In fact, everything on the menu is supersize. Most steaks ar e more than a pound, and the full pasta dishes weigh in at o ver 25 ounces. ( You can also get half-portions, which ar e still plentiful.) You’re expected to shar e dishes, pass things ar ound, and tr y a little bit of everything. See p. 133. • Best A sian F ood: I f y ou eat at Big Bowl, 6 E. Cedar S t., at R ush S treet (& 312/640-8888), at the beginning of y our visit to Chicago, I guarantee you will make a r epeat visit befor e you leave. The food here is addictive. From noodle soups to pad Thai (try the tofu and veggie version), your kids will find tons to lo ve her e. Each child gets a small bo wl of white rice, and cray ons upon being seated. The restaurant bustles and kids will blend right in with the activity. Make sure to grab a handful of individually wrapped for tune cookies on your way out! See p. 128. • Best Hot Dog: Gold Coast Dogs, 159 N. Wabash A ve. ( & 312/917-1677). This River North fast-food stand serves up the authentic item, meaning a Vienna All-B eef F rank slather ed with mustard, gr een r elish, chopped onion, sliced tomato, hot peppers, and celer y salt. Your kids might be brav e enough to ask for and receive ketchup, but as an adult, I wouldn’t risk the disappr oving, raised-eyebrow look you’ll get from the counter staff . You can r ound out the meal with cheese fries, made fr om Idaho potatoes and topped with a generous glob of Wisconsin cheddar . S ee p. 155. • Best P izza: I n the to wn wher e deepdish pies w ere born, Chicagoans take their out-of-town relatives to either The Original G ino’s East of Chicago, 633 N. Wells S t. ( & 312/943-1124; p. 136), or Lou M alnati’s P izzeria, 439 N. Wells S t. ( & 312/828-9800; p. 154), to taste the r eal thing: mouthwatering slabs of pizza loaded with fresh

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ingredients atop delectably sweet crusts. Lou’s fan base is so enamor ed that the restaurant has even instituted a popular overnight mail-or der business to get expatriate Chicagoans with a deep-dish jones over the hump. Best Fast Food: Even though y ou’re in the hometown of McDonald’s, our vote goes to foodlife in Water Tower Place, 835 N. M ichigan A ve. ( & 312/3353663), a food cour t ex emplar with everything from Asian noodles to pizza to smoothies. See p. 129. Best B runch: Cajun and S outhern cooking is in store for you at Wishbone, 1001 W . W ashington Blvd. (& 312/ 850-2663). Primitive art, bright colors, and a bustling cr owd make this a gr eat place for kids. A div erse cr owd, fr om Harpo S tudios emplo yees (O prah is headquartered right around the corner) to businesspeople in suits and ad agency types, fr equent the place. F or br unch, try the salmon cakes. See p. 122. Best G irls’ D ay O ut: Can ’t help but notice those dar k r ed bags that girls carry like badges of honor up and down Michigan A venue? They come fr om American G irl P lace, 835 N. M ichigan Ave., on the first and second floors of Water Tower Place Mall (& 877/2475223), which also featur es a cafe. Call well in advance for breakfast, lunch, or afternoon tea r eservations, or simply take your American girl and her doll to the stor e for a war drobe makeo ver, a photo session, or a visit to the hair salon (dolls can ev en hav e their ears pier ced here!). See p. 123. Best B oys’ N ight O ut: What redblooded American kid doesn ’t lo ve baseball? Catch a ballgame at Wrigley Field or U.S. Cellular F ield, then head downtown to Harry C aray’s, 33 W. Kinzie St. ( & 312/828-0966), one of Chicago’s most flambo yant eateries, filled with uniforms, helmets, car ds, and photographs. B e sure to check out

• Best Retro Diner: Get back to the ‘70s at Kitsch’n River North, 600 W. Chicago A ve. ( & 312/644-1500), which features shag carpeting and one of the best kids’ menus in the city (and Tang martinis for the gr own-ups). Comfor t foods like fried chicken and waffles, puff pastry pot pies, and green eggs and ham (the gr een is actually pr ovided by spinach pesto) should keep the kids happy. I f the w eather’s fine, sit on the large outdoor patio, enjo y a Twinkie tiramisu dessert, and imagine this huge riverside building as the former home of r etailing giant M ontgomery Ward. The original location, in the neighborhood of R oscoe Village, is smaller but just as kitschy and filled with families (2005 W. R oscoe S t., & 773/2487372). See p. 137.

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the bar—it measur es 60 feet, 6 inches, the exact distance from the plate on the pitcher’s mound to home plate in a major-league park. See p. 131. • Best N eighborhood H angout: S tanley’s K itchen and Tap, 1970 N. Lincoln A ve. ( & 312/642-0007), is a classic Lincoln P ark r estaurant with a family-friendly bent. There’s a bar near the entrance, but the adjacent dining room, decorated with photos, quilts, bowling tr ophies, and childr en’s drawings, feels like someone ’s family r oom. This popular family spot has a special kids’ menu. O n S aturday and S unday from 11am to 4pm, ther e’s an all-y oucan-eat brunch buffet, featuring makeyour-own omelets, build-y our-own Belgian waffles, home-fried potatoes, fried chicken, and mashed potatoes. Daily specials ar e posted on the chalkboard out front. See p. 147.

1 THE BEST DINING BETS

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Planning a Family Trip to Chicago Planning a trip is half the fun—and when kids are involved, planning

is a chance to make them active participants in the upcoming family adventure. Ward off any potential kid meltdo wns (“I didn ’t kno w w e w ere going to do that!”) b y talking through the activities y ou all can enjo y. In this chapter w e’ll look at ho w to find up-todate information on those activities, when to go, and ho w to get here.

1 V I S I TO R I N F O R M AT I O N SOURCES OF INFORMATION

The best source of information is the Chicago Conv ention and Tourism B ureau, which operates an information line at & 877/CHICAGO (244-2246) and a very helpful and up-to-date w ebsite at www.choosechicago.com. The Chicago Office of Tourism, Chicago C ultural Center, 78 E. Washington St., Chicago, IL 60602 ( & 312/744-2400 or TTY 312/ 744-2947; www.explorechicago.org), will mail y ou a packet of materials with information on upcoming ev ents and attractions. The Illinois Bureau of Tourism (& 800/2CONNECT [226-6632] or TTY 800/406-6418; www.enjoyillinois. com) will also send y ou a packet of information about Chicago and other I llinois destinations. The number-one publication for families in the Chicago area is Chicago Parent (& 708/386-5555), a monthly magazine that has won many awards as best regional

parenting publication in the nation. Contact the magazine to r equest a copy of its June issue, which is the annual “G oing Places” guide, a compr ehensive listing of what to do with kids in the six-county metro area.

HELPFUL WEBSITES

Aside from official, go vernment-run websites, some Chicago publications and other organizations hav e wonder ful w ebsites, some targeted to families. Check out Chicago P arent magazine ’s w ebsite, www. chicagoparent.com, prior to your visit, for a look at the calendar of ev ents and ex cellent features on exploring Chicago with kids. In addition, www.gocitykids.com provides a w ealth of information, including current calendars of ev ents for Chicago . You can sear ch for activities, r estaurants, and hotels, and see what ’s happening in specific neighborhoods. Go to http://chicago.citysearch.com for the local edition of the national Citysearch, which has r eviews of r estaurants,

13

Destination Chicago: Red Alert Checklist

Many of the city ’s per forming ar ts groups sell tickets online thr ough www. ticketweb.com, so y ou can r eserve seats before leaving home. Part of the City of Chicago ’s w ebsite, www.cityofchicago.org/Landmarks/, includes definitions of Chicago ar chitectural styles, tour information, and maps.

2 V I S I TO R I N I F O R M AT I O N

bars, shops, and shows. For entertainment news, check out www.centerstage.net, or www.metromix.com, the Chicago T ribune’s enter tainment-oriented site. Also check out www.chireader.com, the site of the Chicago R eader, the city ’s alternativ e weekly paper. For a blogger ’s vie w of the city, check out www.chicagoist.com.

P L A N N I N G A FA M I LY T R I P TO C H I C AG O

• If you’re driving, do you have all the dir ections you need and detailed r oad maps? I f y ou’re flying , ar e y ou carr ying a curr ent, go vernment-issued ID , such as a driv er’s lic ense or passpor t? • Do an y theat er, r estaurant, or tra vel r eservations need t o be booked in advance? • Did y ou make sur e y our fa vorite attrac tion is open, or v erify the dat es of any special ev ents you plan t o attend? Call ahead f or opening and closing times. • If y ou pur chased tra veler’s checks , ha ve y ou r ecorded the check numbers and stored the documentation separat ely from the checks? • Did you stop the newspaper and mail deliv ery, and leave a set of key s with someone reliable? • Did you pack y our camera, bring along y our char ger, pack an ex tra set of camera batteries, and pur chase enough film? • Do you have a saf e, ac cessible plac e t o st ore money? • Did y ou bring y our ID car ds that c ould entitle y ou t o disc ounts, such as AAA and AARP car ds, student IDs , and the like? • Did y ou bring emer gency drug pr escriptions and ex tra glasses and/or contact lenses? • Did you find out y our daily A TM withdrawal limit? • Do y ou ha ve y our cr edit car d PINs? Is ther e a daily withdra wal limit on credit card cash advanc es? • To check in at a k iosk with an e -ticket, do y ou ha ve the cr edit car d y ou bought your ticket with or a fr equent-flier card? • Did you leave a c opy of y our itinerar y with someone at home? • Do you have the measur ements for those people y ou plan t o buy clothes for on y our trip?

P L A N N I N G A FA M I LY T R I P TO C H I C AG O

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W H AT TO PAC K

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2 W H AT TO PAC K As you have heard too many times already, Chicago’s weather is changeable. S o while I can giv e y ou general guidelines for packing for v arious seasons, always check out www.weather.com or www.chicago tribune.com for the long-range for ecast. (Granted, in Chicago they seem to hav e it wrong at least half of the time, but it’s better than a complete shot in the dar k.) Ask yourself what you’d wear in your own city in this w eather, and pack it. B ut leav e some r oom in the suitcase, because y ou will undoubtedly buy items while trav eling. In fact, one seasoned-trav eler trick is to pack an empty nylon duffel bag in your suitcase. On the way home, y ou can stuff it with souvenirs and other Chicago loot. Because you are apt to hit four seasons in just one Chicago day , her e ar e some packing tips: • Pack a light sw eater and jacket, even for summer. The Windy City can get quite breezy, and that lake air has a chill at night. Theaters and r estaurants can also o verdo the air-conditioning, so a light sw eater helps y ou ward off ar ctic chill. • You are not too stylish to bring practical headgear to Chicago in the winter. B elieve me, y ou will appr eciate this advice later . When it gets cold in Chicago, no one goes without head covering. Tips Quick

• P ack shorts for a late-spring or earlyfall trip as w ell as for summer . You can always pair them with a sw eatshirt if it gets chilly. • Bring layers. You can always stuff that jacket into y our backpack, but if y ou skip it altogether , y ou may end up regretting it. This way, you’ll be able to stay out all day without r unning back to y our hotel for fr equent war drobe adjustments. As far as dress codes go, unless you and your kids are planning a big night out, like at the P ump Room at the O mni Ambassador East Hotel, for example, you will be just fine in “ nice casual” attire. For men, that means a dress shirt, sports jacket, and tie for the fanciest places. F or women, a long skir t with boots and a nice sw eater goes just about anywhere in the winter. In the summer y ou’ll be comfor table in cool slacks and cotton tops with sandals. If you are planning a v ery special night out, check to see if the r estaurant enfor ces a dress code. O therwise, you might end up borrowing a less-than-attractiv e tie and jacket from the maitr e d’. You’ll find that people dress more conservatively here than in New York or Los Angeles, and as a traveler you can blend in easily with a suitcase full of the basics: khakis, jeans, shor ts, sandals, boots, and sweaters.

ID

Tie a colorful ribbon or piece of yarn around your luggage handle, or slap a distinctive sticker on the side of y our bag. This makes it less likely that someone will mistakenly appropriate it. And if your luggage gets lost, it will be easier t o find.

15

Flying or Driving with Kids FOR A PLANE TRIP When tra veling with k ids, c onsider pack ing the f ollowing in y our carr y-on bag:

For more comprehensive advice on flying with children, see “Getting There,” later in this chapt er, and pick up a c opy of Frommer’s F ly S afe, F ly Smar t, by Sascha S egan ( Wiley, 2002).

• A c ooler with drinks , snacks, fruits, and v eggies. • A flashlight t o help locat e it ems that ha ve r olled under y our seat f or the 10th time in the last 5 minut es. • Window shades f or the sun. • Audiotapes of st ories or childr en’s songs . M any par ents put a TV/VCR in between the two front seats so kids can watch videos, which can be a great help for long str etches with nothing t o do. Other it ems t o c onsider bring ing include a first-aid k it, a bo x of wipes f or cleanups, blankets, plastic bags f or motion sick ness, and a change of clothes . Always have a cellphone in case of emergencies

3 ENTRY REQUIREMENTS PASSPORTS

New regulations issued by the Department of Homeland Security now require vir tually every air trav eler entering the U.S. to show a passpor t. As of J anuary 23, 2007,

all persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air betw een the U nited States and Canada, M exico, Central and S outh America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. As of

2 ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

FOR A CAR TRIP If you will be r enting a car in Chicago , inquire about r eserving a child saf ety seat; most major r ental-car agencies have these available for a small f ee (Avis, for example, charges $5 per day or $25 per week). Driving to Chicago? Long-distance car travel with kids presents a completely different packing challenge. Pack the f ollowing to help y our car trip go mor e smoothly:

P L A N N I N G A FA M I LY T R I P TO C H I C AG O

• The number of diapers y our child w ears in a da y, plus an ex tra three • A chang ing pad in case the tin y r estroom in the airplane has no pullout changing table • A minimal number of t oys—one c oloring book and a stuff ed animal will suffice, not 10 of each! • Bottles for infants, sippy cups and snacks f or t oddlers • A goodie bag with surprises , like a Discman with a CD of music or st ories, books, or small plastic t oys

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ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

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January 31, 2008, U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U. S. at land and sea ports of entr y fr om within the Western Hemisphere will need to pr esent go vernment-issued proof of citizenship, such as a birth certificate, along with a governmentissued photo ID, such as a driv er’s license. A passpor t is not r equired for U.S. or Canadian citizens entering by land or sea, but y ou ar e highly encouraged to carr y one. For information on ho w to obtain a passport, go to “Passports” in the “Fast Facts” section of the appendix (p . 293).

VISAS

The U.S. S tate D epartment has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the follo wing countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, A ustralia, A ustria, Belgium, B runei, D enmark, F inland, France, G ermany, I celand, I reland, I taly, Japan, Liechtenstein, L uxembourg, Monaco, the N etherlands, New Z ealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. (Note: This list was accurate at press time; for the most up-todate list of countries in the VWP, consult www.travel.state.gov/visa.) Even though a visa isn’t necessary, in an effort to help U.S. officials check trav elers against terror watch lists before they arrive at U.S. bor ders, as of J anuary 12, 2009, visitors from VWP countries must register online before boarding a plane or a boat to the U.S. Travelers will complete an electronic application providing basic personal and trav el eligibility information. The Department of H omeland S ecurity r ecommends filling out the form at least 3 days befor e trav eling. A uthorizations will be valid for up to 2 years or until the traveler’s passpor t expir es, whichev er comes first. C urrently, ther e is no fee for the online application. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas; they

will need to show passports (if traveling by air) and proof of residence, however. Note: Any passpor t issued on or after O ctober 26, 2006, b y a VWP country must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. e-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the r equired digital photograph of the holder. (You can identify an e-P assport by the symbol on the bottom center co ver of your passpor t.) I f y our passpor t doesn ’t have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if it is a v alid passpor t issued before O ctober 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone, or between October 26, 2005, and O ctober 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph. F or mor e information, go to www.travel.state.gov/ visa. Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a v alid passpor t that expir es at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S., and (2) a tourist visa. To obtain a visa, applicants must schedule an appointment with a U.S. consulate or embassy , fill out the application forms (av ailable fr om www . travel.state.gov/visa), and pay a $131 fee. Wait times can be lengthy , so it ’s best to initiate the process as soon as possible. As of January 2004, many international visitors trav eling on visas to the U nited States will be photographed and fingerprinted on arriv al at C ustoms in airpor ts and on cr uise ships in a pr ogram created by the Department of Homeland Security called US-VISIT. E xempt fr om the extra scrutiny ar e visitors entering b y land or those who don ’t r equire a visa for shor tterm visits. F or mor e information, go to the H omeland S ecurity w ebsite at www. dhs.gov/dhspublic. For specifics on how to get a visa, go to “Visas” in the “Fast Facts” section of the appendix (p. 294).

17

Cut to the Front of the Airport Security Line as a Registered Traveler

MEDICAL REQUIREMENTS

Unless you’re arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or y ellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not r equired for entr y into the United States.

CUSTOMS

What You Can Bring into the U.S.

Every visitor mor e than 21 y ears of age may bring in, fr ee of duty, the follo wing: (1) 1 liter of wine or har d liquor; (2) 200

2 ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

—David A. L ytle

P L A N N I N G A FA M I LY T R I P TO C H I C AG O

In 2003, the Transportation S ecurity A dministration (TSA; w ww.tsa.gov) approved a pilot program to help ease the time spent in line for airport security screenings. In exchange for information and a fee, persons can be prescreened as registered travelers, granting them a front-of-the-line position when they fly. The program is run through private firms—the largest and most well-known is Steven Brill ’s Clear (w ww.flyclear.com), and it w orks like this: Travelers c omplete an online application pr oviding specific points of personal inf ormation including name, addresses for the previous 5 years, birth date, Social Security number, driver’s license number, and a valid credit card (you’re not charged the $99 fee until your application is approved). Print out the completed form and take it, along with pr oper ID, with y ou to an “enrollment station” (this can be found in mor e than 20 par ticipating airpor ts and in a g rowing number of American Expr ess offic es ar ound the c ountry, f or example). I t’s at this point where it gets seemingly sci-fi. At the enrollment station, a Clear representative will r ecord y our biometrics nec essary f or clearanc e; in this case , y our fingerprints and your irises will be digitally recorded. Once y our application has been scr eened against no -fly lists , outstanding warrants, and other security measures, you’ll be issued a clear plastic card that holds a chip containing your information. Each time you fly through participating airports (and the numbers ar e steadily growing), go t o the Clear P ass station locat ed nex t t o the standar d TSA scr eening line . Her e y ou’ll inser t y our card into a slot and plac e your finger on a scanner t o read your print—when the information matches up, you’re cleared to cut t o the fr ont of the securit y line. You’ll still have to follow all the pr ocedures of the da y like removing your shoes and walk ing thr ough the X -ray machine, but Clear pr omises t o cut 30 minutes off your wait time at the airpor t. On a personal not e: Each time I use m y Clear P ass, my travel c ompanions are still waiting to go through security while I’m already sitting down, reading the paper, and sipping m y o verpriced smoothie. Grant ed, r egistered tra veler programs ar e not f or the infr equent tra veler, but f or those of us who fly on a regular basis, it ’s a perk I’ m willing t o pay for.

P L A N N I N G A FA M I LY T R I P TO C H I C AG O

18

W H E N TO G O

2

cigarettes, 100 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to trav elers who spend at least 72 hours in the U nited States and who hav e not claimed them within the pr eceding 6 months. It is forbidden to bring into the country almost any meat products (including canned, fresh, and dried meat products such as bouillon, soup mix es, and so forth). G enerally, condiments including vinegars, oils, spices, coffee, tea, and some cheeses and baked goods ar e permitted. Avoid rice products, as rice can often harbor insects. Bringing fruits and vegetables is not advised, though not pr ohibited. Customs will allow produce depending on where y ou got it and wher e y ou’re going after you arrive in the U.S. Foreign tourists may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or for eign curr ency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs on entering or leaving, which includes filing form CM 4790. For details regarding U.S. C ustoms and Bor der Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (www.cbp. gov).

What You Can Take Home from Chicago

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summar y of Canadian r ules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency ( & 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www .cbsa-asfc.gc. ca). U.K. C itizens: F or information, contact HM Customs & E xcise at & 0845/ 010-9000 (fr om outside the U.K., 020/ 8929-0152), or consult their w ebsite at www.hmce.gov.uk. Australian C itizens: A helpful br ochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at & 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au. New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a fr ee pamphlet av ailable at New Z ealand consulates and C ustoms offices: New Z ealand C ustoms G uide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17–21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, W ellington (& 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

4 W H E N TO G O When should y ou go to Chicago? That depends on what kind of weather you like. Chicago has it all—heat and humidity , subzero temps, and wind, wind, wind. The city has a r eputation for being r eally cold in the winter . In reality, it’s about as cold as any other northern city. Maybe it’s that wind that makes the cold seem mor e bitter. S till, most visitors pr efer planning trips to Chicago in late spring thr ough early fall. If you can’t make it during prime time, err on the side of arriving later in fall rather than early in spring. S pring in Chicago can be notoriously late and fickle, but fall offers beautiful days that can extend to Thanksgiving.

Don’t be afraid to tr y the off season: Museums are wide open, shops hav e sales (especially in J an), and the str eets ar en’t clogged with pedestrians. Chicago is definitely a four-season destination; its inhabitants ar e har dy enough to be out and about even in the depths of winter . As an added incentiv e to “ off-season” trav elers, hotel rates ar e r ock-bottom during the winter. One thing is cer tain: Whenever y ou decide to go, y ou should be pr epared for changeable w eather. Chicagoans like to joke that if you don’t like the weather here, just wait an hour . One beautiful summer afternoon, I left my apartment in jeans and

Chicago’s Average Temperatures & Precipitation Feb Mar 33.9 44.3 1.0 6.8 18.1 27.6 –7.7 –2.4 1.3 2.6

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Apr May June July Aug 58.8 70.0 79.4 85.3 82.1 14.9 21.1 26.3 29.6 27.8 38.8 48.1 57.7 62.7 61.7 3.8 8.9 14.3 17 16.5 3.7 3.2 4.1 3.6 3.5

a T-shirt, only to hav e to buy a sw eatshirt downtown when the wind shifted and the temperature plummeted 15 degr ees in 15 minutes. S o ev en in J uly, make sur e that you bring a light jacket or sweater. (And in the winter , ho wever fashionable y ou ar e

Sept 75.5 24.4 53.9 12.2 3.4

Oct Nov 64.1 48.2 17.8 9.0 42.0 31.4 5.6 –0.3 2.3 2.1

Dec 35.0 1.7 20.3 –6.5 2.1

trying to be, don ’t think y ou can get b y without a hat.) For curr ent conditions and forecasts, check www.chicagotribune.com and www. weather.com.

KIDS’ FAVORITE CHICAGO EVENTS

J ANUARY Chicago C ubs Conv ention. Ev en though A pril and O pening D ay seem (and are) very far away in January, Cubs fans dr eam of next season at this convention, the kickoff to spring training, which is held at the H ilton Chicago, 720 S. Michigan Ave. Players sign autographs and collectors buy, sell, and swap memorabilia. Call & 773/404-CUBS (404-2827) or go to http://chicago. cubs.mlb.com for mor e information. Mid-January.

Winter Delights. Throughout January and February, the city’s Office of Tourism ( & 877/CHICAGO [244-2246]; www.choosechicago.com) offers special travel deals to lur e visitors during tourism’s lo w season. I ncentives include bargain-priced hotel packages, affor dable prix-fixe dinners at downtown restaurants, and special music and theater performances. Families with cabin fever should seek gr eat deals on hotels with pools—it’s a gr eat weekend away fr om

2 K I D S’ FAV O R I T E C H I C AG O E V E N T S

Chicago is a f estival city, with ethnic parades , food, music, art and flo wer fairs, and street celebrations packing the calendar. Particularly in the summer, it can be tough to choose among ac tivities. I n wint er y ou’ll ha ve f ewer choic es, but some of the perennial favorites take place then. To disc over the lat est and g reatest special ev ents in the cit y, ask the Chicago Office of Tourism (& 877/CHICAGO [244-2246]; www.choosechicago.com) or the Illinois Bur eau of Tourism (& 800/2CONNECT [226-6632]; www.enjoyillinois. com) to mail you a copy of the Chicago Visitor’s Guide, an excellent quarterly publication that surveys special events, including parades and street festivals, concerts and theatrical productions, and museum exhibitions. Also ask to be sent the latest materials produced by the Mayor’s Office of Special E vents (& 312/744-3315, or the Special Events Hot Line 312/744-3370, TTY 312/744-2964; w ww.cityofchicago.org/ specialevents), which keeps current with citywide and neighborhood festivals. You’ll find food, music and flower fairs, garden walks, and more. Remember that new ev ents might be added ev ery y ear, and that oc casionally special ev ents ar e disc ontinued or r escheduled. S o, t o a void disappointment, be sure to telephone in advance or check the w ebsite of the sponsoring or ganization, the Chicago Office of Tourism, or the Mayor’s Office of Special Events to verify dates, times, and locations.

P L A N N I N G A FA M I LY T R I P TO C H I C AG O

High °F °C Low °F °C Rainfall (in.)

Jan 20.2 –6.5 13.6 –10.2 1.6

P L A N N I N G A FA M I LY T R I P TO C H I C AG O

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K I D S’ FAV O R I T E C H I C AG O E V E N T S

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the sno w and cold. Early J anuary through February. Chicago Boat, RV & O utdoor Show, McCormick Place, 23rd Street and Lake Shore Drive ( & 312/946-6200; www. chicagoboatshow.com). This extravaganza has been a Chicago tradition for nearly 70 years. All the latest boats and recreational vehicles are on display, plus there’s tr out fishing, a climbing wall, boating-safety seminars, and big-time entertainment. Late January. FEBRUARY Chinese New Year Parade, Wentworth and Cermak streets (& 312/326-5320; www.chicagochinatown.org). The twisting dragon is sur e to please kids as it winds do wn the str eet at this annual celebration. Call to v erify the date, which varies from year to year, depending on the lunar calendar (usually btw . Jan 21 and Feb 19). Chicago A uto S how, M cCormick Place, 23rd Street and Lake Shore Drive (& 630/495-2282; www .chicagoauto show.com). More than a thousand cars and tr ucks, domestic and for eign, ar e on display at this show, a tradition since 1901. Kids can get behind the wheel of the latest models at this ev ent, which draws nearly a million car o wners or wannabe owners a year. Look for packages at hotels that include tickets. M idFebruary. International Cluster of D og S hows, McCormick P lace S outh, 23r d S treet and South Lake S hore Drive ( & 773/ 237-5100; www.ikcdogshow.com). See canines great and small strut their stuff. They’re all adorable, but only one can win B est in S how. M ore than 10,000 AKC (American K ennel Club) pur ebred dogs of all br eeds heat up the competition. It’s quite a scene, par ticularly in the poodle ar ea, where you can see dogs getting their hair blo w-dried until they look like canine r ock stars. Third week in February.

M ARCH Spring Flower Shows. Spring is sprung a little earlier in the conservatories than it is outside in the real world, and thank goodness. See the lilies, daffodils, tulips, pansies, and other flo wering perennials at Lincoln Park Conservatory (& 312/ 742-7737) and Garfield Park Conservatory (& 312/746-5100). Throughout March and April. St. P atrick’s D ay P arade. E ven the Chicago River puts on the green for St. Patrick’s D ay—it’s actually dy ed K elly green for the occasion. The parade runs along D earborn S treet fr om Wacker Drive to Van B uren; the best place to view it is around Wacker and Dearborn. Saturday closest to March 17. A PRIL Opening Day. Bundle up the kids and join the die-har d fans at the ballpar k (and die-har d fans kno w to w ear long underwear, so follo w their lead). O ptimism r eigns supr eme and fans hope again that this will be their season. And even if it ’s not, hot dogs and peanuts will take some of the edge off . For the Cubs, call & 773/404-CUBS (4042827) or visit www.cubs.mlb.com; for the White S ox, call & 312/674-1000 or visit www.whitesox.mlb.com. Early April. M AY Buckingham F ountain Color Light Show, in Grant Park, at Congress Parkway and Lake S hore D rive. The water and the ev er-changing color ed lights put on their sho w in the landmar k fountain nightly until 11pm. M ay 1 through October 1. The F erris Wheel and C arousel at Navy Pier, 600 E. Grand Ave. (& 312/ 595-PIER [595-7437]; www .navypier. com). Give your kids a bir d’s-eye vie w of Chicago from the Ferris wheel (those who ar e slightly less fond of heights can stay closer to earth on the carousel), when it star ts spinning again after a

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2 K I D S’ FAV O R I T E C H I C AG O E V E N T S

J UNE Ravinia Festival, Ravinia Park, in suburban Highland Park, north of Chicago (& 847/266-5100 for ticket r eservations; www .ravinia.com). S ummer wouldn’t be summer without Ravinia, a Chicago tradition. Basically, it’s an outdoor concer t v enue with a co vered pavilion and plenty of lawn seating. Offerings range fr om classical to pop . Kids can enjo y a picnic on the lawn while parents revel in the music of the Chicago S ymphony O rchestra. P ack a picnic, jump on the M etra commuter railroad, and join the cr owds sitting under the stars on the lawn. One warning: Ravinia is so popular that many of the first-rate visiting or chestras, chamber ensembles, pop ar tists, and dance companies sell out in adv ance. J une through September. Chicago Blues Festival, Petrillo Music Shell, at J ackson and Columbus driv es in Grant Park (& 312/744-3315). The lineup looks better ev ery y ear at this festival. Admission is free, but get there in the afternoon to stake out a spot on the lawn for the ev ening sho ws. You’ll discover y oung up-and-coming blues

stars (including some who ar e the offspring of blues greats, such as Shamekia Copeland, daughter of J ohnny Copeland). A shuttle bus will take y ou from the park to blues clubs. Call for information. First week in June. 57th Street Art Fair, at 57th and Kimbark streets in Hyde Park (& 773/4933247; www.57thstreetartfair.org). This is the oldest juried ar t fair in the M idwest—in 2007, it celebrated its 60th anniversary. Kids will especially enjo y the arts and crafts pr ojects and the fun rides. First weekend in June. Chicago G ospel F estival, P etrillo Music Shell, at J ackson and Columbus drives in G rant P ark ( & 312/7443315). This is the largest outdoor, freeadmission event of its kind. B lues may be the city ’s mor e famous musical export, but Chicago is also the bir thplace of gospel music: Thomas Dorsey, the “ father of gospel music, ” and the greatest gospel singer ev er, M ahalia Jackson, w ere S outhsiders. This 3-day festival offers music on three stages with more than 40 per formances. Early June. Printers Row Book Fair, on Dearborn Street from Congress to Polk ( & 312/ 222-3986). One of the largest free outdoor book fairs in the countr y, this weekend-long ev ent featur es r eadings by childr en’s-book authors, book signings, and panel discussions on ev erything fr om writing y our first no vel to finding an agent. Also on offer are more than 150 booksellers displaying ne w, used, and antiquarian books for sale; a poetry tent; and special activities for children. Early June. Old Town Art Fair, historic Old Town neighborhood, at Lincoln P ark West and Wisconsin S treet ( & 312/3371938; www .oldtowntriangle.com). Children’s ar t activities abound at this fair; adults can appr eciate the mor e

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long winter ’s sleep . F rom M emorial Day to Labor Day, Navy Pier also hosts twice-weekly fir eworks sho ws Wednesday nights at 9:30pm and S aturday nights at 10:15pm. M ay thr ough October. Wright Plus Tour, at the F rank Lloyd Wright Home & S tudio ( & 708/8481976; www .wrightplus.org). G limpse inside the brilliant mind of Frank Lloyd Wright on this annual tour , which features 10 buildings in Oak Park, including F rank Llo yd Wright’s home and studio, the U nity Temple, and sev eral other notable O ak P ark buildings in both Prairie and Victorian styles. Tickets go on sale M arch 1 and can sell out within 6 w eeks. Third S aturday in May.

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than 200 painters, sculptors, and je welry designers fr om the M idwest and around the countr y. The fair also features an art auction, a garden walk, and food and drink. S econd w eekend in June. Wells Street Ar t Festival, Wells Street from North Avenue to D ivision Street (& 312/951-6106; www .oldtown chicago.org). H eld on the same w eekend as the O ld Town Art Fair, this ar ts fest is lots of fun, with 200 ar ts and crafts vendors, food, music, and carnival rides. Second weekend in June. Andersonville M idsommarfest, along Clark S treet fr om F oster to B almoral avenues ( & 773/728-2995). You can relive the Scandinavian heritage of Andersonville, once Chicago’s principal Swedish community. Parents rave about the S wedish American M useum’s kids ’ exhibits; the tr eats at the S wedish Bakery, across the street from the museum, are not to be missed. S econd weekend in June. Puerto Rican F est, H umboldt P ark, Division Street and S acramento Boulevard ( & 773/292-1414; www .pr paradechicago.com). O ne of Chicago ’s animated Latino street celebrations, this festival includes 5 days of liv e music, theater, games, food, and bev erages. It peaks with a parade that w ends its way from Wacker D rive and D earborn Street to the West S ide P uerto Rican enclave of Humboldt Park. Mid-June. Jammin’ at the Zoo, Lincoln Park Zoo, 2200 N. Cannon D r., at F ullerton Parkway ( & 312/742-2000; www . lpzoo.com). Family fun is the emphasis at this concer t; however, depending on the featur ed musical act (which could be rock, zydeco, or r eggae music), y ou might find that singles ar e more dominant at this per fect date v enue. The lovely lawn south of the zoo’s Park Place Café is cer tainly one of the mor e

unusual outdoor venues in the city. The first of thr ee summer concer ts (ticket prices vary) is held in late June. Grant P ark M usic F estival, P ritzker Music P avilion, in M illennium P ark (& 312/742-7638; www .grantpark musicfestival.com). The fr ee outdoor musical concer ts in the par k begin the last week in June and continue through August. If your kids ar e old enough to stay up past 10, call to find out about the movies in the park, shown outdoors on a large screen. Taste of Chicago, Grant Park (& 312/ 744-3315). The largest fr ee outdoor food fest in the nation (according to the City of Chicago), “ The Taste,” as it ’s known to locals, can be hot, sweaty, and claustrophobic. If your kids are small or don’t do well in crowds, avoid it. Going on a w eekday morning will help y ou miss the heaviest cr owds. Three-and-ahalf million people eat their way through cheesecake, ribs, pizza, and more, all car ted to food stands set up throughout the par k by scores of Chicago restaurants. On the evening of July 3, things get pretty hairy when Chicago launches its I ndependence D ay fir eworks, and cr owds ar e at their sw eaty peak. Admission is free; you pay for the sampling, of course. Late J une and the first week of July. Chicago Countr y M usic F estival, Petrillo M usic S hell, at J ackson and Columbus drives in Grant Park (& 312/ 744-3315), is less claustr ophobic than Taste of Chicago and ther efore mor e kid-friendly. And it’s free! You’ll see bigname enter tainers of the countr y-andwestern genr e. Late J une (during the first weekend of Taste of Chicago). Gay & Lesbian Pride Parade, on Halsted S treet, fr om B elmont A venue to Broadway, south to D iversey P arkway, and east to Lincoln P ark ( & 773/3488243; www .chicagopridecalendar.org).

K I D S’ FAV O R I T E C H I C AG O E V E N T S

J ULY Independence D ay Celebration (& 312/744-3315). Celebrated in Chicago on J uly 3, concer ts and fir eworks are the highlights of the festivities in G rant P ark. The sight of fir eworks exploding o ver and r eflecting off of Lake M ichigan is w ell wor th braving the cr owd. Take public transpor tation, or walk. Irish-American H eritage F estival, Irish-American H eritage Center , 4626 N. Kno x A ve., at M ontrose A venue (& 773/282-7035). I f y our kids ar e into I rish dancing, made famous b y Riverdance, make sure to check out this festival, featuring I rish music, dance, food, readings, and children’s entertainment. Second weekend in July. Sheffield G arden Walk, star ting at S heffield and Webster av enues (& 773/929-WALK [929-9255]; www. sheffieldfestivals.org). One of Chicago’s largest street parties, the S heffield Garden Walk sounds a bit mor e r efined than it actually is—but her e’s y our chance to snoop into the lush backyards of Lincoln Park homeowners. There are also live bands, children’s activities, and food and drink v endors on tap . M idJuly.

Chicago Yacht Club’s Race to Macki- 23 nac I sland (& 312/861-7777; www . chicagoyachtclub.org). Kids who lo ve boats will get a kick out of watching the start of this 3-day competition. A t Monroe Street Harbor, boats set sail on Saturday for the grandest of the inland water races. Mid-July. Chicago S ummerDance, east side of South Michigan Avenue between Balbo and H arrison str eets ( & 312/7424007). F rom J uly to early S eptember, the city’s Department of Cultural Affairs transforms a patch of Grant Park into a lighted outdoor dance venue on Thursday, F riday, and S aturday fr om 6 to 9:30pm, and S unday fr om 4 to 7pm; ethnic dance lessons for kids are offered Saturday fr om 4 to 5pm. The 3,500square-foot dance floor pr ovides ample room for thr owing do wn mo ves while live bands play music—fr om ballroom, jazz, klezmer, and countr y and w estern 2 to samba, zydeco, blues, and soul. Onehour lessons are offered from 6 to 7pm. Free admission. Taste of Lincoln Avenue, Lincoln Park, between Fullerton Avenue and Wellington S treet ( & 773/868-3010; www . wrightwoodneighbors.org). This is one of the largest and most popular of Chicago’s many neighborhood str eet fairs; it featur es 50 bands per forming music on fiv e stages. N eighborhood r estaurants staff the food stands, and ther e’s also a kids ’ carnival. Third weekend in July. Venetian Night, from Monroe Harbor to the Adler Planetarium (& 312/7443315). Whimsical decorations on a carnival of illuminated boats make this a great kids’ event. Fireworks and synchronized music b y the G rant P ark Symphony O rchestra complete the scene. Watch from the shor eline, or, if you can swing it, get onboar d a friend’s boat. Last Saturday in July.

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This parade is flamboyant and colorful, the culmination of a month of activities by Chicago ’s gay and lesbian community. The floats, mar ching units, and colorful characters will keep y ou entertained, so pick a spot on B roadway for the best view. Last Sunday in June. Farmers mar kets open at two doz en sites all o ver the city at the end of the month and continue w eekly thr ough October. D owntown sites ar e D aley Plaza (ev ery other Thurs) and F ederal Plaza (ev ery Tues). For other locations and times, call & 312/744-3315.

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Newberry Librar y B ook F air and Bughouse S quare D ebates, 69 W. Walton S t. and Washington S quare Park ( & 312/255-3501; www . newberry.org). For teens with an interest in history or a love of books, this fair will be a hit. A t the fair , held o ver 4 days, N ewberry Librar y sells tens of thousands of used books, most under $2. The highlight is soapbo x orators re-creating the B ughouse S quare Debates in Washington S quare P ark, just across the street. Late July. A UGUST Chicago Air & Water S how, N orth Avenue B each ( & 312/744-3315). Kids lo ve this hugely popular sho w, held on the lake at North Avenue Beach and o verhead, wher e y ou’ll see S tealth bombers, F-16s, and special appearances b y the U.S. Air F orce Thunderbirds and N avy S eals. B ecause the crowds ar e intense at N orth A venue Beach, tr y grabbing a por table radio and hanging at Oak Street Beach, along the Gold Coast. Admission is free. MidAugust. Viva! Chicago Latin M usic F estival, Petrillo M usic S hell, at J ackson and Columbus drives in Grant Park (& 312/ 744-3370). Salsa, mambo, and the latest Latin r ock gr oups hit the stage for this fr ee festiv al. Last w eekend in August. S EPTEMBER Boulevard Lakefront Bike Tour (Chicagoland B icycle F ederation; & 312/ 42-PEDAL [427-3325]). This 10-mile leisurely tour especially for families lets you explor e the city , fr om neighborhoods and the lakefr ont to Chicago ’s historic link of par ks and boulev ards. It star ts and ends at the U niversity of Chicago in H yde Park, which hosts the annual B ike E xpo, with v endors and entertainment, the same day. MidSeptember.

Chicago J azz F estival, P etrillo M usic Shell, Jackson and Columbus driv es in Grant P ark ( & 312/744-3315). This festival features Chicago-style jazz, with several national headliners always on hand. The ev ent is fr ee; kids ar e w elcome. First weekend in September. Mexican I ndependence D ay P arade, along Dearborn Street between Wacker Drive and Van B uren S treet ( & 312/ 744-3315). Chicago is home to the nation’s second-largest Mexican-American population, and that makes for a great parade. Another parade is held on the next day on 26th Street in the Little Village neighborhood ( & 773/5215387). Mid-September. World M usic F estival Chicago, v arious locations ar ound the city ( & 312/ 742-1938; www .cityofchicago.org/ worldmusic). This r elatively ne w and enormously popular festiv al is a major undertaking b y the city ’s D epartment of Cultural Affairs. Call ahead for tickets, because many ev ents sell out. The festival is held at venues around town— notably, the Chicago C ultural Center , Museum of Contemporar y Ar t, O ld Town School of F olk Music, and H ot House. You’ll see top per formers fr om Zimbabwe to H ungary to S ri Lanka performing traditional, contemporar y, and fusion music. S hows ar e a mix of free and ticketed ($10 or less) ev ents. Call for information and to r eceive updates on scheduled per formances. Late September. Celtic F est Chicago, P etrillo M usic Shell, J ackson and Columbus driv es in G rant P ark ( & 312/744-3315). The city ’s ne west music festiv al celebrates the music and dance of Celtic traditions from around the world. MidSeptember.

Disney characters makes its way south along M ichigan A venue, fr om O ak Street to the Chicago Riv er, with holiday lights being illuminated block b y block as the procession passes. Carolers, elves, and minstr els appear with S anta along the av enue thr oughout the day and into the ev ening, and many of the retailers ser ve hot chocolate and other treats. Saturday before Thanksgiving. Christmas Tree Lighting, Daley Center P laza, in the Loop ( & 312/7443315). The switch is flipped on the day after Thanksgiving, around dusk. Zoo Lights Festival, Lincoln Park Zoo, 2200 N. Cannon D r. ( & 312/7422000). Color ful illuminated displays brighten long nights during the holidays. Another special tradition is the annual Caroling to the Animals, a daylong songfest on a Saturday early in the month. Late N ovember thr ough the first week in January.

2 K I D S’ FAV O R I T E C H I C AG O E V E N T S

D ECEMBER A Christmas Carol, Goodman Theatre, 170 N. D earborn S t. ( & 312/4433800; www.goodman-theatre.org). This is both a seasonal fav orite and a Chicago institution; it’s been performed for more than 2 decades. The sho w r uns from ar ound Thanksgiving to the end of December. The Nutcracker, Joffrey Ballet of Chicago, Auditorium Theatre, 50 E. Congress Pkwy . The esteemed company performs its Victorian-American twist on this holiday classic. F or tickets, call the J offrey office at & 312/7390120; www.joffrey.com, or Ticketmaster (& 312/559-1212). The production runs for 3 weeks from late November to mid-December.

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O CTOBER Chicago M arathon (& 888/2433344 or 312/904-9800; www .chicago marathon.com). Whether or not you or your kids ar e r unners, cheering on the harriers is an uplifting experience. Sponsored b y LaS alle B ank, Chicago ’s marathon is a major event on the international long-distance r unning cir cuit, with some of the world ’s top r unners competing. It begins and ends in Grant Park, but can be viewed from any number of v antage points along the race route. Second Sunday in October. Spooky Zoo Spectacular, Lincoln Park Zoo, 2200 N. Cannon Dr. at Fullerton Parkway ( & 312/742-2000; www . lpzoo.com). D ress y our tots in their Halloween finest for the fr ee treats that are dispensed at v arious animal habitats. Boz o the Clo wn—himself a Chicago nativ e—kicks things off with a parade thr ough the z oo gr ounds. Late October. N OVEMBER The Big Top, United Center, 1901 W. Madison S t. ( & 312/455-4500); and the Allstate Arena, 6920 N. Mannheim Rd., R osemont ( & 847/635-6601). This is the month that Ringling B ros. and B arnum & B ailey comes to Chicago to set up its tent. Tickets are available fr om Ticketmaster ( & 312/5591212). Throughout November. State S treet Thanksgiving P arade (& 312/781-5681) is an annual ev ent that takes place on Thanksgiving morning beginning at 8:30am. The parade marches up State Street, from Congress to Randolph. Magnificent M ile Lights F estival (& 312/642-3570; www.gnmaa.com). Beginning at dusk, a color ful parade of

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5 GETTING THERE BY PLANE

P L A N N I N G A FA M I LY T R I P TO C H I C AG O

The Major Airlines

GETTING THERE

2

Domestic carriers that fly r egularly to O’Hare include American (& 800/4337300; www.aa.com), Continental (& 800/ 525-0280; www .continental.com), Delta (& 800/221-1212; www .delta.com), Northwest (& 800/225-2525; www.nwa. com), United (& 800/241-6522; www . united.com) and discount offshoot Ted (& 800/CALL TED [225-5833]; www . flyted.com), and US Airways (& 800/4284322; www .usairways.com). Commuter service is also pr ovided by several regional airlines. Airlines that fly to Chicago ’s Midway Airpor t ar e AirTran Air ways (& 800/247-8726; www .airtran.com), America West (& 800/235-9292; www . americawest.com), Continental (& 800/ 525-0280; www .continental.com), Frontier (& 800/432-1359; www .frontier airlines.com), Northwest (& 800/2252525; www .nwa.com), and Southwest (& 800/435-9792; www.southwest.com). The toll-free numbers listed ar e for use in the United States and Canada.

Arriving at the Airport IMMIGRATION & CUST OMS CLEARANCE International visitors arriving b y

air, no matter what the por Tips

t of entr y,

should cultiv ate patience and r esignation before setting foot on U.S. soil. U.S. airports have considerably beefed up security clearances in the y ears since the terr orist attacks of S eptember 11, and clearing Customs and I mmigration can take as long as 2 hours.

Long-Haul Flights: How to Stay Comfortable • Your choice of airline and airplane will definitely affect y our legr oom. F ind more details about U.S. airlines at www.seatguru.com. F or international airlines, the r esearch firm S kytrax has posted a list of av erage seat pitches at www.airlinequality.com. • Emergency exit seats and bulkhead seats typically have the most legroom. Emergency exit seats ar e usually left unassigned until the day of a flight (to ensure that someone able-bodied fills the seats); it’s worth checking in online at home (if the airline offers that option) or getting to the ticket counter early to snag one of these spots for a long flight. Many passengers find that bulkhead seating offers mor e legr oom, but keep in mind that bulkhead seats hav e no storage space on the floor in fr ont of you.

Kids with Colds

It’s more difficult for kids to make their ears pop during takeoff and landing than it is for adults. The eustachian tube is especially narrow in children; the passage is even tighter when mucous membranes are swollen. This can make ascent and descent especially painful—even dangerous—for a child with congested sinuses. If your little one is suffering from a cold or the flu, it’s best to keep him grounded until he recuperates, if that’s an option. If you must travel with your child as scheduled, give him an oral child’s decongestant an hour before ascent and descent or administer a spray decongestant before and during takeoff and landing.

Tips

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Don’t Stow It—Ship It

• Drink water befor e, during, and after your flight to combat the lack of humidity in airplane cabins. A void caffeine and alcohol, which will dehydrate you.

Flying for Less: Tips for Getting the Best Airfares

Airfares are a gr eat example of capitalism at wor k: P assengers within the same airplane cabin rar ely pay the same far e for their seats. Rather , each pays what the market will bear . B usiness trav elers who need to purchase tickets at the last minute, change their itinerar y at a moment ’s notice, or get home befor e the w eekend pay the pr emium rate, kno wn as the full fare. Passengers who can book their ticket long in adv ance, who don ’t mind staying over Saturday night, or who ar e willing to travel on a Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday after 7pm will pay a fraction of the full fare. O n most flights, ev en the shor test hops, the full fare is close to $1,000, but a 7-day or 14-day advance purchase ticket is closer to $200 to $300. H ere ar e a fe w other easy ways to save: • Periodically, airlines lo wer prices on their most popular r outes. Check y our newspaper for adv ertised discounts, or

2 GETTING THERE

• To have two seats for yourself in a threeseat row, try for an aisle seat in a center section to ward the back of coach. I f you’re trav eling with a companion, book an aisle and a windo w seat. Middle seats ar e usually booked last, so chances ar e good y ou’ll end up with three seats to y ourselves. And in the event that a thir d passenger is assigned the middle seat, he or she will pr obably be more than happy to trade for a window or an aisle. • To sleep, avoid the last r ow of any section or the r ow in fr ont of an emergency exit, as these seats ar e the least likely to recline. Avoid seats near highly trafficked toilet areas. Avoid seats in the back of many jets—these can be narrower than those in the r est of coach. Or r eserve a windo w seat so y ou can rest your head and avoid being bumped in the aisle. • Get up, walk around, and stretch every 60 to 90 minutes to keep y our blood flowing. This helps av oid deep v ein thrombosis, or “ economy-class syndrome.” S ee the bo x “Avoiding ‘E conomy Class Syndrome,’” p. 42.

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If ease of travel is your main concern and money is no objec t, you can ship your luggage and sports equipment with one of the g rowing number of luggageservice companies that pick up, track, and deliver your luggage (often through couriers such as Federal Express) with minimum hassle for you. Traveling luggage free may be ultraconvenient, but it’s not cheap: One-way overnight shipping can cost from $100 to $200, depending on what you’re sending. Still, for some people, especially the elderly or the infirm, it ’s a sensible solution to lugging heavy baggage. Specialists in door-to-door luggage delivery are Virtual Bellhop (& 877/235-5467; www.virtualbellhop.com), SkyCap International (& 877/7759227; www.skycapinternational.com), Luggage Express (& 866/744-7224; www. usxpluggageexpress.com), and Sports Express (& 800/357-4174; www.sports express.com).

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GETTING THERE

2

Tips

Coping with Jet Lag

Jet lag is a pitfall of tra veling across time zones. If you’re flying north-south and you feel sluggish when you touch down, your symptoms will be the result of dehydration and the general stress of air travel. When you travel east-west or vice-versa, your body becomes confused about what time it is, and everything from your digestive system to your brain is knocked for a loop. Traveling east is more difficult on your internal clock than traveling west because most peoples’ bodies are more inclined to stay up late than to fall asleep early. Here are some tips for combating jet lag: • Reset your watch to your destination time before you board the plane. • Drink lots of water before, during, and after your flight. Avoid alcohol. • Exercise and sleep well for a few days before your trip. • If you have trouble sleeping on planes, fly eastward on morning flights. • Daylight is the key to resetting your body clock. At the website for Outside In (www.bodyclock.com), you can get a customized plan of when to seek and avoid light.

call the airlines dir ectly and ask if any promotional rates or special far es ar e available. You’ll almost nev er see a sale during the peak summer v acation months of J uly and A ugust, or during the Thanksgiving or Christmas seasons; in periods of lo w-volume trav el, ho wever, y ou should pay no mor e than $400 for a cr oss-country flight. I f your schedule is flexible, ask if you can secure a cheaper fare by staying an extra day or by flying midweek. (Many airlines won’t volunteer this information.) I f y ou already hold a ticket when a sale breaks, it may even pay to exchange your ticket, but keep in mind y ou’ll usually incur a change fee of as much as $100 to do so. Note: The lowest-priced fares often ar e nonrefundable, r equire adv ance purchase of 1 to 3 w eeks and a cer tain length of stay , and carr y penalties for changing dates of travel. • Consolidators, also kno wn as bucket shops, ar e gr eat sour ces for international tickets, although they usually can’t beat I nternet far es within N orth America. S tart b y looking in S unday

newspaper travel sections; U.S. travelers should focus on the New York T imes, Los A ngeles Times, and Miami H erald. U.K. trav elers should sear ch in the Independent, the Guardian, or the Observer. Beware: B ucket shop tickets are usually nonr efundable or rigged with stiff cancellation penalties, often as high as 50% to 75% of the ticket price, and some put y ou on char ter airlines, which may leav e at inconv enient times and experience delays. S everal r eliable consolidators ar e worldwide and av ailable online. STA Travel has been the world’s lead consolidator for students since pur chasing Council Travel, but their fares are competitive for trav elers of all ages. Flights.com (& 800/TRAV800 [872-8800]; www .flights.com) has ex cellent far es worldwide, par ticularly to E urope. They also hav e “local” websites in 12 countries. FlyCheap (& 800/FLY-CHEAP [359-2432]; www.1800flycheap.com) has especially good far es to sunny destinations. Air Tickets D irect (& 800/778-3447; www.airticketsdirect.com) is based in Montreal and lev erages the curr ently weak Canadian dollar for lo w far es;

The one experience most Chicago visitors share is O’Hare I nternational Airpor t (& 773/686-2200). O’H are has long battled with A tlanta’s H artsfield for the title of the world ’s busiest airpor t. The airport reigns as a major hub for making connections worldwide. O’H are has its own police force, zip code, medical center, cemetery, and chapel.

GETTING THERE

Chicago’s Airports

O’Hare is northwest of the city pr oper, 29 about a 25- to 30-minute driv e fr om downtown, depending, of course, on the traffic. A cab ride into the city will cost you about $30 to $35. You can also ask the taxi-stand attendant to arrange a shar ed ride for you, which will cost about $15 per person. For $1.75, you can take the El (vernacular for the elev ated train), which will efficiently get you downtown in about 40 minutes, regardless of traffic. Trains leave every 6 to 10 minutes during the day, and every half-hour in the ev ening and o vernight. O’Hare also has outposts for ev ery major car-r ental company (see “G etting Around,” later in this chapter, for details). O’Hare has information booths in all five terminals, most located on the baggage lev el. The multilingual personnel, who are outfitted in r ed jackets, can assist travelers with ev erything fr om arranging ground transportation to getting informa2 tion about local hotels. The booths also offer a plethora of useful tourism br ochures. The booths, labeled airpor t informa tion, ar e open daily from 9am to 8pm. On the opposite end of the city , the southwest side, is Chicago ’s other major airport, Midway (& 773/838-0600). A new terminal has eased considerable crowding pr oblems and expanded the selection of r estaurants and shops. Although it ’s smaller than O’H are and fewer airlines have routes here, Midway is closer to the Loop and you may be able to get a cheaper far e flying into this airpor t. (Always check far es flying into both airports if y ou want to find the best deal.) The E l O range Line extends to M idway, so y ou can make it do wntown in about half an hour for $1.75. Please note that the Orange Line stops operating each night at about 11:30pm and r esumes ser vice b y 5am. Trains leave the station every 6 to 15 minutes. Most major car-rental companies have counters at Midway as well.

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they also book trips to places that U.S. travel agents won ’t touch, such as Cuba. • S earch the I nternet for cheap far es. Great last-minute deals ar e av ailable through free weekly e-mail services provided dir ectly b y the airlines. Websites such as Frommers.com (www . frommers.com), Travelocity (www . travelocity.com), Expedia (www . expedia.com), Qixo (www .qixo.com), and Orbitz (www .orbitz.com) allo w consumers to comparison-shop for airfares, access special bargains, book flights, and r eserve hotel r ooms and rental cars. • Join a trav el club such as Moment’s Notice (& 718/234-6295; www . moments-notice.com) or Travelers Advantage (& 877/259-2691; www . travelersadvantage.com), which supply unsold tickets at discounted prices. You pay an annual membership fee to get the club’s hot line number . O f course, you’re limited to what’s available, so you have to be flexible. • J oin frequent-flier clubs. I t’s best to accrue miles on one pr ogram, so y ou can rack up free flights and achieve elite status faster. But it makes sense to open as many accounts as possible, no matter how seldom you fly a particular airline. It’s free, and you’ll get the best choice of seats, faster response to phone inquiries, and prompter service if y our luggage is stolen, if y our flight is canceled or delayed, or if y ou want to change y our seat.

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Air Travel Security Measures

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In the wake of the t errorist attacks of S eptember 11, 2001, the airline industry implemented sweeping security measures in airports. Although regulations vary from airline t o airline, you can expedit e the check -in process and alleviate airpor t stress by tak ing the f ollowing steps: • Arrive early. Times var y fr om airpor t t o airpor t, depending on their siz e. Figure on arriving f or check -in an ywhere fr om a minimum of an hour in advance to at least 2 hours bef ore your scheduled flight. • Don’t c ount on curbside check-in. S ome airlines and airpor ts ha ve stopped curbside check -in altogether, whereas others off er it on a limit ed basis. For up -to-date information, check with the individual airline . • Be sure to carr y plenty of documen tation. An up -to-date, go vernmentissued photo ID (f ederal, state, or local) is no w required. You may need t o show this at various check points. With an e -ticket, you may be r equired to have with y ou print ed c onfirmation of pur chase, and perhaps ev en the credit car d with which y ou bought y our ticket. This varies fr om airline t o airline, so call ahead t o make sur e you have the pr oper documentation. • Know what you can carry on—and what you can’t. Travelers in the United States ar e no w limit ed t o one carr y-on bag , plus one personal bag (such as a purse or a brief case). The Transportation S ecurity A dministration (TSA) has also issued a list of banned carr y-on items; for more information, check the TSA w ebsite at w ww.tsa.gov. Your airline ma y ha ve additional restrictions on carr y-on it ems, so call ahead t o avoid problems. • Prepare to be sear ched. Expec t spot- checks. Elec tronic it ems (such as a laptop or c ellphone) should be r eadied f or additional scr eening. Be pr epared to place your jewelry, loose change, and any other metallic it ems on your person in bins bef ore you go thr ough securit y. • It’s no jok e. I f an yone asks y ou securit y-related questions , don ’t be flip . The agents will not hesitat e to call securit y.

You can find the latest information on both airpor ts at the city ’s D epartment of Aviation website: www.ohare.com.

Airport Transfers

Continental Airpor t E xpress (& 800/ 654-7871 or 312/454-7800; www.airport express.com) ser ves most first-class hotels in Chicago with its blue-and-white Airport E xpress v ans; ticket counters ar e located at both airpor ts near the baggage claim (outside C ustoms at the international terminal at O’H are). For transportation to the airpor t, r eserve a spot fr om

one of the hotels (check with the bell captain). The cost is $21 one-way ($39 roundtrip) to or from O’Hare and $16 one-way ($30 round-trip) to or fr om Midway. The shuttles operate fr om 6am to 11:30pm. For limo ser vice fr om either O’H are or Midway, call Carey Limousine of Chicago (& 773/769-0009; www .ecarey. com) or Chicago Limousine S ervices (& 312/726-1035). D epending on the number of passengers and whether y ou opt for a sedan or a str etch limo, the service will cost about $100 to $150, including gratuity and tax.

Safe Seats for Kids

Fun Facts

Child Seats: They’re a Must

According to Consumer Reports Travel Letter, the N ational Transportation S afety Board says that, since 1991, the deaths of five childr en and injuries to four could have been prevented had the children been sitting in r estraint systems during their flights. E ven in the ev ent of moderate turbulence, childr en sitting on a par ent’s lap can be thr ust for ward and injur ed. When y ou consider that a commer cial aircraft hits a significant amount of turbulence at least once a day on av erage, you’d do well to think about investing in a safety seat. The F AA r ecommends that childr en under 20 pounds ride in a r ear-facing child-restraint system, and says childr en who weigh 20 to 40 pounds should sit in a for ward-facing child-r estraint system.

O’Hare, Oh My

Chicago’s O’Hare International Airport comes in second place (after HartsfieldJackson Atlanta International Airport) as the busiest airpor t in the world. Approximately 970,000 planes take off and land at O ’Hare each year, generating about 500,000 jobs for the region. O’Hare is completely self-supporting, requiring no local taxpayer dollars to keep it going.

2 GETTING THERE

The practice of allowing children younger than 2 to ride for free on a parent’s lap may be prohibited by the time you read this. At press time the FAA was writing a rule that would r equire all childr en under 40 pounds to hav e their o wn tickets and be secured in a child seat. All the major American airlines ex cept Delta now offer discounted infant tickets for children 2 y ears of age or y ounger, to make it more affordable for you to reserve a separate adjacent seat for y our baby and a restraining device. (Most airlines require that an infant be 2 w eeks old to trav el—bring a bir th certificate. American and Continental only require that the child be 7 days old. Alaska lets babies fly as soon as they ’re born.) For no w, if a seat adjacent to y ours is available, your lap child can sit ther e free of charge. When you check in, ask if the flight is cr owded. I f it isn ’t, explain y our situation to the agent and ask if y ou can reserve two seats—or simply mo ve to two empty adjacent seats once the plane is boarded. You might want to shop ar ound before y ou buy y our ticket and deliberately book a flight that’s not very busy. Ask the reservationist which flights tend to be most full and av oid those. Only one extra

child is allowed in each row, however, due 31 to the limited number of o xygen masks. On flights o verseas a lap far e usually costs 10% of the par ent’s ticket price. Children who meet the airline ’s age limit (which ranges from 11 to 15 years old) can purchase international far es at 50% to 75% of the lo west coach far e in cer tain markets. Some of the foreign carriers make even greater allowances for children. Children riding for free will usually not be granted any baggage allowance. All airlines offer child meals if requested in advance. Ticketed babies can get “infant meals” on America West, D elta, and US Airways, and all major airlines ex cept Alaska and S outhwest will warm bottles on request.

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With 1 week’s notice, CTA Paratransit offers door-to-door lift ser vices to and from O’Hare for travelers with disabilities. Visitors must be r egistered with a similar program in their home city . For information, call & 312/432-7025 or TTY 312/917-1338.

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The Custody Trap Because of concern about parental abductions, special requirements exist for children flying to many foreign countries, including Mexico. If they’re with one parent, they must bring a notarized consent document from the other parent— even if the missing parent is the one waving goodbye at the airport! A decree of sole custody or parental death certificate will also do. Minors traveling alone to these countries must bring either two consent forms, a decree of sole custody and one consent form, or applicable death certificates. Ask your airline what’s required when you book the ticket.

Children o ver 40 pounds should sit in a regular seat and wear a seat belt. All child seats manufactured after 1985 are certified for airline use, but make sur e your chair will fit in an airline seat—it must be less than 16 inches wide. You may not use booster seats or seatless v ests or harness systems. S afety seats must be placed in windo w seats—ex cept in exit rows, where they are prohibited, so as not to block the passage of other trav elers in the case of an emergency. The airlines themselv es should carr y child safety seats onboar d. Unfortunately, most don’t. To make matters worse, o verzealous flight attendants have been known to try to keep safety seats off planes. O ne traveler r ecounts in the N ovember 2001 issue of Consumer Reports Travel Letter how a Southwest attendant attempted to block use of a seat because the r ed label cer tifying it as safe for airline use had flaked off . That traveler won her case by bringing the owner’s manual and appealing to the pilot—you should do the same. Getting safety seats on an international flight may be ev en mor e difficult. Ask to make sur e y ou can use y our safety seat when y ou book a flight on a for eign airline. Until the ne w F AA r ule comes into effect, if y ou can’t afford the expense of a separate ticket, book a ticket to ward the back of the plane at a time when air trav el is likely to be slowest—and the seat next to

you is most likely to be empty . The reservationist should also be able to r ecommend the best (meaning the least busy) time for you to fly.

Children Traveling Solo

Although individual airline policies differ (check with the specific airline for details), for the most part children ages 5 to 11 pay the regular adult fare and can travel alone as unaccompanied minors on domestic flights only with an escor t fr om the airlines—a flight attendant who seats the child, usually near the galley , wher e the flight cr ew is stationed; watches over the child during the flight; and escorts the child to the appropriate connecting gate or to the adult who will be picking up the child. U naccompanied minors typically board first and disembar k last. On domestic flights, the ser vice costs between $30 and $75, depending on the airline and whether the child will hav e to change planes. O n all the major airlines, several childr en trav eling together fr om the same family will hav e to pay only one fee. Unaccompanied children are never left alone; escorts stay with them until turning them over to an escor t on the connecting flight or to a designated guardian. Airlines require attending adults to furnish a name, address, and government-issued photo ID. The adult who dr ops the child off at the airport must then designate the name and

you receive the ticket, review it yourself to make sure the city of origin and the destination ar e accurate. R eview the ticket carefully with your child and explain simply how it works. If you’re booking a flight for your child, the airlines will r equest y our name, telephone number, and addr ess—along with the name, number , and addr ess of the guardian who will meet y our child at the destination city. An adult guar dian must accompany the child to the gate or plane, furnish r easonable pr oof that another adult will meet the child at the final destination, and remain at the airport until the plane is in the air . The accompanying adult at the destination will hav e to sign a release form and furnish go vernmentissued photo identification, such as a license or passpor t. If a child is unusually big or small, it ’s wise to bring a bir th certificate to the airport as proof of age.

Minor Orientation With stricter security measures at airports, parents must no w get a pass fr om the

2 GETTING THERE

Solo Minors on International Flights Major carriers’ policies for minors trav eling alone ar e basically the same for both domestic and international travel, although fees ar e higher on international flights. Children may be pr ohibited fr om boarding an international flight under poor weather conditions that could require that the plane be rerouted. Parents should seriously consider using European airlines for international trips because of the extra ser vices they pr ovide for kids. British Airways has a toy chest on its planes, and Virgin A tlantic treats kids like r oyalty, with special enter tainment channels, toys, and treats. If you’re booking a ticket for a minor on an international flight, you should call the consulate of the destination countr y to find out about visas and other special entry requirements.

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address of the adult who is authoriz ed to pick the child up . At the destination city , the airline will not r elease the child to anyone but the authoriz ed adult, after receiving a signatur e and seeing a photo ID. Children ages 5 to 7 generally may travel unaccompanied on nonstop flights only; in other wor ds, they’re not allo wed to change planes for connecting flights at that age. (N orthwest and D elta allo w all children to trav el on connecting flights.) Children ages 8 to 11 may make connecting flights with an escor t, with the ex ception of S outhwest and America West, which do not allo w any unaccompanied child under the age of 12 to take a connecting flight. America West’s policy is relatively ne w, star ted in 2001 after two embarrassing incidents in which the airline sent one child to the wr ong destination and neglected to tell a par ent about another child’s flight delay. Children over the age of 12 ar e considered adults and may trav el without an escort on ev ery major carrier but N orthwest, which r equires escor ts until age 14. They still qualify for assistance fr om the airline for the extra fee. S outhwest is the only airline that does not allow children to use the escort service once they are able to fly without one, at age 12. Because airlines want to av oid the responsibility of having to shepher d children overnight, minors are usually not allowed to take the last connecting flight of the day , when the risk of missed connections is greatest. Minors are usually not allowed to trav el on standb y, and they must have confirmed reservations. On connecting flights, ask when y ou book if the child will be flying on mor e than one airline. ( With the ne w airline alliances, y our child may end up on a Northwest air craft, ev en though y ou booked the flight through Continental.) If so, make sur e y ou kno w each airline ’s policy for unaccompanied minors. O nce

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ticket agent for permission to escor t their children to the depar ture gate. (A dults picking up unaccompanied minors at arrival gates also need this permission slip.) If your child has never flown before, it makes sense to sho w up at the airpor t a little early to wander ar ound, watch other planes take off and land, and prepare your child in advance for how flight is going to feel. Be sure to discuss the danger of talking to strangers—even if you have had the same discussion before. You will be allowed to escor t y our child to the gate, but not onto the plane. Some airlines allo w unaccompanied minors to board first, so the flight crew has more time to meet the child, orient the child to the location of bathr ooms and emergency exits, stor e carr y-ons, r eview safety pr ocedures, and—kids lo ve this part—introduce the child to the cockpit crew. M ake sur e minors understand that they should contact an attendant in case of any type of pr oblem—from sickness to a malfunctioning headset to a bothersome neighbor. If you can’t make it all the way on to the plane, be sur e to introduce your child to the gate attendant and ensure that the child will r eceive help boar ding if necessary. Some airlines offer special meals for children, such as hamburgers, hot dogs, or peanut butter sandwiches, which must be ordered in adv ance, when y ou make the reservation. It’s still wise to send your child off with a bagged lunch, snack, and drinks. Also pack books and other enter tainment in a carr y-on and make sur e y our child knows ho w to get at them onboar d the plane. Make sur e y our child has cash and knows how to make a collect phone call. In one place, r ecord y our child ’s name, your own name, address, and phone number, along with the names and phone number of y our child ’s hosts at the final destination. Review the information with your child and place it in a safe purse, pocket, or neck pouch. B e sure, however,

that y our child kno ws not to shar e this information with strangers—not ev en a friendly neighbor in the cabin. If y our child is taking medication, it may be wise to postpone the trip unless you ar e cer tain y our child is r esponsible for self-administering dosages pr operly. Flight attendants ar e not allo wed to administer drugs to minors.

Easing Travel with the Tots in Tow

Several books on the mar ket have tips to help y ou trav el with kids. M ost concentrate on the U.S., but two, Family Travel & Resorts: The C omplete Guide (Lanier Publishing I nternational; $19.95) and How to Take Great Trips with Your Kids (The Harvard Common Press; $9.95), are full of good general advice that can apply to travel anywhere. Another reliable tome, with a worldwide focus, is Adventuring with Children (Foghorn Press; $14.95). Family T ravel T imes (& 888/8224FTT [822-4388]; www.familytraveltimes. com) is an ex cellent online ne wsletter updated twice monthly. Subscriptions are $39 a year, $49 for 2 years. Sample articles are available on the newsletter’s website. If y ou plan car efully, y ou can actually make it fun to travel with kids: • If you’re traveling with childr en, you’ll save yourself a good bit of aggrav ation by reserving a seat in the bulkhead row. You’ll hav e mor e legr oom, and your children will be able to spr ead out and play on the floor under foot. You’re also mor e likely to find sympathetic company in the bulkhead area, as families with childr en tend to be seated there. • Be sur e to pack items for y our children in your carry-on luggage. In case you’re forced to check one of y our carry-ons, consolidate the childr en’s things in one bag or in y our purse. When y ou’re deciding what to bring, ready yourself for the worst: long, unexpected delays without food, bathr ooms

to nod off . You will also pr otect y our 35 child from jostling passersby and falling objects—in the rar e but entir ely possible instance that an o verhead bin pops open. In the ev ent of an accident, unr estrained children often don’t make it— even when the par ent does. E xperience has shown that it’s impossible for a parent to hold onto a child in the ev ent of a crash, and children often die of impact injuries. For the same reason, sudden turbulence is also a danger to a child who is not buckled into his o wn seat belt or seat restraint. According to Consumer Reports Travel Letter, the most common flying injuries result when unanticipated turbulence strikes and hur tles passengers from their seats. (S ee “Child S eats: They’re a Must,” above, for suggestions regarding FAA-promoted child-restraint systems.) 2 • Try to sit near the lav atory, though not so close that y our children are jostled by the cr owds that tend to gather there. Consolidate trips ther e as much as possible. • T ry to accompany childr en to the lavatory. They can be easily bumped and possibly injured as they make their way do wn tight aisles. I t’s especially dangerous for children to wander while flight attendants ar e blocking passage with their ser vice car ts. O n cr owded flights, the flight cr ew may need as much as an hour to ser ve dinner . I t’s wise to encourage y our kids to use the restroom as you see the attendants pr eparing to serve. • Be sure to bring clean, self-containing compact to ys. Leav e electr onic games at home. They can inter fere with the aircraft navigational system, and their noisiness, ho wever lulling to childr en’s ears, will sur ely not win the fav or of your adult neighbors. Magnetic checker sets, on the other hand, ar e a per fect

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without changing tables, airline meals that feature your children’s least favorite dishes. • Ha ve a long talk with y our childr en before y ou depar t for y our trip . I f they’ve nev er flo wn befor e, explain to them what to expect. I f they ’re old enough, you may even want to describe how flight wor ks and ho w air trav el is even safer than riding in a car . Explain to y our kids the impor tance of good behavior in the air—ho w their o wn safety can depend upon their being quiet and staying in their seats during the trip. • Pay extra car eful attention to the safety instr uctions befor e takeoff . Consult the safety chart behind the seat in fr ont of y ou and sho w it to y our children. B e sur e y ou kno w ho w to operate the o xygen masks, as y ou will be expected to secur e y ours first and then help your children with theirs. B e especially mindful of the location of emergency exits. B efore takeoff , plot out an ev acuation strategy for y ou and your children in your mind’s eye. • Ask the flight attendant if the plane has any special safety equipment for children. Make a member of the cr ew aware of any medical pr oblems y our children have that could manifest during flight. • Be sur e y ou’ve slept sufficiently for your trip. If you fall asleep in the air and your child manages to break away, there are all sor ts of sharp objects that could cause injur y. Especially during mealtimes, it ’s danger ous for a child to be crawling or walking ar ound the cabin unaccompanied by an adult. • Be sure your child’s seat belt r emains fastened pr operly, and tr y to r eserve the seat closest to the aisle for y ourself. This will make it har der for y our children to wander off—in case, for instance, you’re taking the r ed-eye or a long flight overseas and you do happen

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In-Flight Fun for Kids

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With one of these childr en’s game books onboar d, ev en the longest plane ride will go fast er.

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Great Games for Kids on the Go: O ver 240 T ravel Games to Play on T rains, Planes, and Automobiles by Penny Warner Retail price: $12.95 Ages 4 to 8 This book is full of ent ertaining educational games t o help y our kids while away the miles . Each game is highly engag ing and ent ertaining and r equires few mat erials and v ery little spac e. Brain Quest for the Car: 1,100 Questions and Answers All About America by Sharon Gold Retail price: $10.95 Ages 7 to 12 This book features cards with questions about American geography, culture, and cust oms. Vacation Fun Mad Libs: World’s Greatest Party Game by Roger Price Retail price: $3.99 Ages 8 and up As suggested by the title , this book is chock -full of M ad Libs. Your kids will want to keep playing even after you’ve touched down.

distraction, and small coloring books and crayons also wor k well, as do car d games like Go Fish. Visit the librar y before you leave home and check out childr en’s books about flying or airplane trav el. G eographyrelated books and coloring books that include their departure point and destination will also help engage them during air travel. A Walkman with a fe w favorite recordings will also come in handy—especially if you throw in some sleepy-time tunes. By all means, don’t leave home without a fav orite blanket or stuffed animal— especially if it’s your kid’s best friend at bedtime. • S ome airlines serve childr en’s meals first. When y ou boar d, ask a flight attendant if this is possible, especially if

your children are very young or seated toward the back of the plane. After all, if your kids hav e a happy flight experience, everyone else in the cabin is more likely to as well. • You’ll certainly be grateful to yourself for packing tidy snacks like r olled dried fruit, which are much less sticky and wet and mor e compact and packable than actual fr uit. B lueberry or raisin bagels also make for a neat, healthy sw eet and yield fe wer cr umbs than cookies or cakes. G inger snaps, crisp and not as crumbly as softer cookies, will also help curb mild cases of motion sickness. And don’t forget to stash a fe w r esealable plastic bags in y our purse. They’ll prove invaluable for storing ev erything fr om half-eaten crackers and fr uit to checker pieces and Matchbox cars.

Most airlines have cut back on food service recently—and even if you do get a “meal” on a domestic flight, it’s likely to be a limp turkey sandwich. Your best bet is to brown-bag homemade sandwiches. Unlike fruit, for example, they hav e no lefto ver parts to throw away, and you won’t have to tussle with airport security over silverware. But if y ou insist on eating economy-class cuisine, here are some tips: • Order a special meal. M ost airlines allow coach-class passengers to or der from a range of special meals, including low-fat, low-cholesterol, vegetarian, and children’s meals (usually a hamburger or hot dog). These meals aren’t necessarily fresher than the standar d ones, but at least y ou’ll kno w what ’s in them. Call

The Economy-Class Meal Policies of Major A irlines • Alaska: F ood ser ved on flights of 2 hours or mor e. Breakfast 6 to 8:30am; lunch 10:30am to 1:30pm; dinner 4 to 7pm. • America W est: F ood ser ved only on flights betw een the East Coast and Phoenix. B reakfast 6 to 9am; lunch 11am to 1pm; dinner 5 to 7pm. • American: F ood ser ved only on nonstop, transcontinental flights. B reakfast 5 to 8:30am; lunch noon to 1pm; dinner 5:30 to 7pm.

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2 GETTING THERE

Tasteless: Dealing with Airline Food

your airline 2 days before your flight to secure y our meal. Then double-check when you check in. • Become a v egetarian. D ieticians and frequent fliers say v egetarian and vegan meals ar e often better than standar d airline far e. Vegan meals skip cheese and sw eets, leading to a healthier but more spartan platter. • Fly a tasty airline. The Zagat organization rates airline food annually . F or 2001, M idwest E xpress had the best economy-class meals (including fr esh chocolate-chip cookies and r eal plates), while America West rated the worst of the airlines that actually ser ve meals (think that afor ementioned tur key sandwich). In general, coach-class passengers no w get meals only on flights cr ossing twothirds of the countr y or mor e; ev eryone else gets peanuts or other minibags of snacks. (Continental and Alaska ar e w elcome ex ceptions, but “ meals” on Continental flights under 3 1/2 hours ar e of the dreaded turkey sandwich variety.) Most lo w-fare airlines generally ser ve only snacks (except for Midwest Express), even on cr oss-country flights. B ut some offer better snacks than others. S outhwest offers a nonyummy bag of salted peanuts. But jetB lue ser ves up classy blue potato chips, and Frontier goes even further with chicken wraps and specialty bagels.

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• Juice or cookies will not only keep them distracted during ascent and descent—often the scariest par ts of flight for a child—but also help their little ears pop as cabin air pressure shifts rapidly. Juice (paper cartons travel best) will also keep them swallo wing and help them to stay pr operly hy drated. Avoid giving y oung childr en gum or hard candies, since sudden turbulence may cause them to choke. • If your children are very young, bring pacifiers. The act of sucking will keep their ears clear. By the same logic, takeoff and landing are the perfect times for feedings. Your kids will be distracted from the deafening cabin noise, and their ears will pop mor e easily. If your schedule won ’t allo w this, tr y placing drops of water on an infant’s tongue, to facilitate swallo wing. D on’t forget to pack bottles and extra milk or formula as well, as these are unavailable on most aircraft. M any airlines pr ohibit flight attendants fr om pr eparing formula, so it ’s best to pack y our bab y’s food premixed.

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Flying with Film & Video

GETTING THERE

2

Never pack film— developed or undev eloped—in checked bags , as the new , more powerful scanners in U .S. airpor ts can f og film. The film y ou carr y with you can be damaged b y scanners as w ell. X -ray damage is cumulativ e; the faster the film and the more times you put it through a scanner, the more likely the damage. Film under 800 ASA is usually saf e for up t o five scans. I f you’re taking y our film thr ough additional scans , U .S. r egulations permit y ou t o demand hand inspections. In international airports, you’re at the mer cy of airport officials. On international flights, store your film in transparent baggies, so you can r emove it easily bef ore you go thr ough scanners. Keep in mind that airports are not the only plac es where your camera ma y be scanned: H ighly trafficked attractions are X-raying visitors’ bags with increasing frequency. Most photo supply stores sell protective pouches designed to block damaging X-rays. The pouches fit both film and loaded cameras . They should protect your film in checked baggage , but they also ma y raise alarms and r esult in a hand inspection. You’ll have little t o worry about if y ou are traveling with digital cameras. Unlike film, which is sensitive to light, the digital camera and storage cards are not aff ected b y airpor t X -rays, ac cording t o N ikon. Still , if y ou plan t o tra vel extensively, y ou ma y want t o pla y it saf e and hand- carry y our dig ital equip ment or ask that it be inspec ted by hand. Carry-on scanners will not damage videotape in video cameras , but the magnetic fields emitted by the walk-through security gateways and hand-held inspection wands will . Always place your loaded camc order on the scr eening conveyor belt or ha ve it hand-inspec ted. Be sur e your batt eries are char ged, as you may be required to turn the device on to ensure that it’s what it appears to be.

• Continental: Food served on flights of 2 hours or mor e. B reakfast 7 to 9am; lunch 11am to 1pm; dinner 5 to 7pm. • Delta: F ood ser ved only on flights of more than 1,750 miles. B reakfast 5 to 8:30am; lunch noon to 1pm; dinner 6:30 to 7:30pm. • Northwest: Food served only on flights between D etroit/Minneapolis/Memphis and the West Coast. Breakfast 6 to 9:45am; lunch 11am to 1:15pm; dinner 4:30 to 7:15pm. • United: Food served only on flights of more than 1,635 miles. B reakfast 5 to 9:59am; lunch 11am to 1:29pm; dinner 4:50 to 7:29pm.

• US Airways: Food served only on nonstop, transcontinental flights. B reakfast 6 to 10am; lunch 11am to 1pm; dinner 4 to 7pm.

BY C AR

Chicago is ser ved b y interstate highways from all major points on the compass. I-80 and I-90 approach from the east, cr ossing the nor thern sector of I llinois, with I-90 splitting off and emptying into Chicago via the Skyway and the Dan Ryan Expressway. F rom her e, I-90 r uns thr ough Wisconsin, follo wing a nor thern r oute to Seattle. I-55 snakes up the Mississippi Valley from the vicinity of N ew Orleans and

BY TRAIN

BY BUS

The Greyhound Bus Station in Chicago is at 630 W. Harrison ( & 800/231-2222 travel information; www.greyhound.com), not far fr om U nion S tation. S everal city buses (nos. 60, 125, 156, and 157) pass in front of the terminal building, and the nearest E l stop is at Clinton S treet and Congress Parkway on the Blue Line.

6 M O N E Y & CO S T S ATMS

ATMs in Chicago are linked to a national network that most likely includes y our bank at home. Cirrus (& 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (& 800/ 843-7587; www .visa.com) ar e the two most popular networks; check the back of your ATM card to see which network your bank belongs to. Use the toll-free numbers to locate ATMs in Chicago. When you ask for dir ections to an A TM, Chicagoans may point y ou to the near est “Cash S tation,” our local term (Cash S tation is the biggest ATM network in the city); almost every machine labeled “Cash S tation” is part of the Cirrus or PLUS network.

Be sure to check y our daily withdrawal limit befor e y ou leav e for y our trip . And note that many banks hav e begun to impose a fee for transactions, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5) than for domestic ones (rarely mor e than $2). I n addition, y our own bank may also charge y ou a fee for using ATMs fr om other banks. To compare banks’ ATM fees, use www.bankrate. com. Visitors from outside the U.S. should also find out whether their bank assesses a 1% to 3% fee on charges incurr ed abroad.

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2 M O N E Y & CO S T S

Rail passenger ser vice, although it may never approach the grandeur of its heyday, has made enormous adv ances in ser vice, comfort, and efficiency since the cr eation of Amtrak in 1971. As in the past, but on a reduced scale, Chicago r emains the hub of the national passenger rail system. Traveling gr eat distances b y train is cer tainly not the quickest way to go, nor always the

most conv enient. But many trav elers still prefer it to flying or driving. For tickets, consult your travel agent or call Amtrak (& 800/USA-RAIL [8727245]; www.amtrak.com). Ask the r eservations agent to send y ou Amtrak’s useful travel planner, with information on train accommodations and package tours. When you arrive in Chicago, the train will pull into Union S tation at 210 S. Canal, between Adams and Jackson streets (& 312/655-2385). Bus nos. 1, 60, 125, 151, and 156 all stop at the station, which is just west across the river from the Loop. The near est E l stop is at Clinton S treet and Congress Parkway (on the Blue Line), which is a fair walk away , especially when you’re carrying luggage.

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enters Chicago fr om the w est along the Stevenson Expressway, and in the opposite direction it pr ovides an outlet to the Southwest. I-57 originates in southern Illinois and forms par t of the interstate linkage to Florida and the South, connecting within Chicago on the w est leg of the Dan R yan. I-94 links D etroit with Chicago, arriving on the Calumet E xpressway and leaving the city via the K ennedy Expressway en route to the Northwest. Here ar e a fe w appr oximate driving distances in miles to Chicago: fr om Milwaukee, 92; fr om St. Louis, 297; fr om Detroit, 286; fr om Denver, 1,011; fr om Atlanta, 716; fr om Washington, D.C., 715; from New York City, 821; and fr om Los Angeles, 2,034.

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Tips Small

Change

P L A N N I N G A FA M I LY T R I P TO C H I C AG O

Make sure you’re carrying some small bills or loose change . Petty cash will come in handy for tipping and public transpor tation. Consider keeping the change separate from your larger bills so that it ’s readily accessible and you’ll be less of a target for theft.

M O N E Y & CO S T S

2

CREDIT CARDS

Credit cards are the most widely used form of payment in the U nited S tates: Visa (Barclaycard in B ritain), MasterCard (EuroCard in E urope, A ccess in B ritain, Chargex in Canada), American E xpress, Diners Club, and Discover. They also provide a conv enient r ecord of all y our expenses, and offer r elatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances fr om y our credit cards at banks or ATMs, but high fees make cr edit card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. It’s highly recommended that you travel with at least one major cr edit car d. You must have one to rent a car, and hotels and airlines usually r equire a cr edit car d imprint as a deposit against expenses. ATM car ds with major cr edit car d backing, known as “debit cards,” are now a commonly acceptable form of payment in most stores and restaurants. Debit cards draw money dir ectly fr om y our checking account. Some stores enable you to receive cash back on y our debit card purchases as well. The same is tr ue at most U.S. post offices. These days ev eryone pays with plastic, even for the smallest pur chase. S o go ahead and use your card for a cup of coffee and a bagel—fe w mer chants will bat an eye. You can use just about any credit card here; one that might be mor e popular around Chicago than in other par ts of the country is Discover.

TRAVELER’S CHECKS

Though cr edit car ds and debit car ds ar e more often used, trav eler’s checks ar e still

widely accepted in the U.S. F oreign visitors should make sure that traveler’s checks are denominated in U.S. dollars; for eigncurrency checks ar e often difficult to exchange. In Chicago, you should have no trouble using them at most hotels and downtown r estaurants (places that ar e used to accommodating international visitors), but they may not be accepted at smaller businesses in the city ’s r esidential neighborhoods. You can buy trav eler’s checks at most banks. Most are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. G enerally, y ou’ll pay a ser vice charge ranging from 1% to 4%. The most popular trav eler’s checks ar e offered b y American E xpress (& 800/ 807-6233; 800/221-7282 for car dholders—this number accepts collect calls, offers service in sev eral foreign languages, and ex empts AmE x gold and platinum cardholders fr om the 1% fee); Visa (& 800/732-1322; AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee—for checks up to $1,500—at most AAA offices or by calling 866/339-3378); and MasterCard (& 800/223-9920). Be sure to keep a copy of the trav eler’s checks’ serial numbers separate fr om your checks in the ev ent that they ar e stolen or lost. You’ll get a refund faster if you know the numbers. Another option is the ne w prepaid traveler’s check car ds, r eloadable car ds that work much like debit cards but aren’t linked to y our checking account. The American E xpress Travelers Cheque Card, for example, r equires a minimum

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What Things Cost in Chicago

40.00 30.00 25.00 20.00 2.00 25¢ 11 adults, 6.50 kids Ticket to Sears Tower Skydeck 12 adults, 8.50 kids Hot dog at Gold Coast Dogs 2.40 Movie ticket 9.50 adults, 6.50 kids 20-ounce soft drink at drug or c onvenience store 1.29 16-ounce apple juice 1.39 Weekday Chicago Tribune 50¢ Weekday Chicago Sun-Times 50¢ Package of Pampers at drugstore 12.99 32-ounce bottle prepared Similac formula 4.99

WHAT TO DO IF YOUR WALLET IS LOST OR STOLEN

Almost every credit card company has an emergency toll-fr ee number that y ou can call if your wallet or purse is lost or stolen. A representative may be able to wire you a

20.20 15.15 12.60 10.10 1.00 15p 5.55 adults , 3.25 kids 6.05 adults, 4.30 kids 1.20 4.80 adults , 5.55 kids 65p 70p 25p 25p 6.55 2.50

cash advance off your credit card immediately and, in many places, can deliv er an emergency credit card in a day or two. The toll-free information directory will pr ovide the issuing bank ’s toll-free number if you dial & 800/555-1212. Citicorp Visa’s U.S. emergency number is & 800/3368472. American Express cardholders and traveler’s check holders should call & 800/ 221-7282 for all money emergencies. MasterCard holders should call & 800/ 307-7309. If you do carry traveler’s checks, be sur e to keep a r ecord of their serial numbers, separate fr om the checks, of course, so that y ou’re guaranteed a r efund in just such an emergency.

7 H E A LT H STAYING HEALTHY

You won’t need to take any unusual pr ecautions when trav eling to Chicago . The

regular assor tment of antacids, antidiarrheals, and some acetaminophen or ibuprofen for headaches should suffice. Lake

2 H E A LT H

deposit ($300), sets a maximum balance ($2,750), and has a one-time issuance fee of $15. You can withdraw money from an ATM ($2.50 per transaction, not including bank fees), and the funds can be purchased in dollars, euros, or pounds. If you lose the car d, your available funds will be refunded within 24 hours.

UK£

P L A N N I N G A FA M I LY T R I P TO C H I C AG O

Cab from O’Hare Airport to downtown hotel Cab from Midway Airport to downtown hotel Shuttle from O’Hare to downtown hotel Shuttle from Midway to downtown hotel Subway or bus ride Transfer (good for two additional rides) Ticket to John Hancock Center Observatory

US$

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SAFETY

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Avoiding “Economy Class Syndrome” Deep vein thrombosis, or as it’s known in the world of flying, “economy class syndrome,” is a blood clot that dev elops in a deep vein. It’s a potentially deadly condition that can be caused by sitting in cramped conditions—such as an airplane cabin—for too long. During a flight (especially a long-haul flight), get up , walk around, and stretch your legs every 60 to 90 minutes to keep your blood flowing. Other preventive measures include frequent flexing of the legs while sitting, drinking lots of water, and avoiding alcohol and sleeping pills. If you have a history of deep vein thrombosis, heart disease, or other condition that puts you at high risk, some experts recommend wearing compression stockings or taking anticoagulants when you fly; always ask your physician about the best course for you. Symptoms of deep vein thrombosis include leg pain or swelling, or even shortness of breath.

Michigan rar ely gets r ough enough to advise bringing motion sickness medication for boat tours; however, if you or your kids ar e par ticularly susceptible, or if you’re planning a long fishing ex cursion, you may want to add some to y our bag. Pack pr escription medications in y our carry-on luggage, and keep them in their original containers. Also bring along copies of y our pr escriptions in case y ou lose your pills or r un out. And don ’t forget sunglasses and an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses.

Where to Go If You Get Sick Away from Home

In downtown Chicago, the most centrally located hospital is Northwestern Memorial Hospital, 251 E. Huron St. ( & 312/ 926-2000), just east of Michigan Avenue. Their physician referral service is & 312/ 926-8000. The emergency depar tment is at 250 E. E rie S t., near F airbanks Cour t (& 312/926-5188).

8 SAFETY Chicago has all the crime problems of any urban center, so use y our common sense and stay cautious and aler t. At night y ou might want to stick to w ell-lighted streets along the Magnificent Mile, River North, Gold Coast, and Lincoln Park (stay out of the park proper after dark, though), which are all high-traffic areas late into the night. Don’t walk alone at night, and avoid wandering down dark residential streets, even those that seem per fectly safe. M uggings can—and do—happen anywhere. After dar k, y ou might want to avoid neighborhoods such as H yde Park, Wicker Park (beyond the busy intersection

of Milwaukee, Damen, and N orth aves.), and Pilsen, which bor der areas with mor e troublesome reputations. You can also ask the concierge at y our hotel or an agent at the tourist visitor center for r ecommendations about visiting a particular area of the city. The E l is generally quite safe, ev en at night, although some of the do wntown stations can feel eerily deser ted late in the evening. When you’re traveling with kids, I always r ecommend that when in doubt, spring for a taxi. B uses are a safe option, too, especially nos. 146 and 151, which pick up along N orth M ichigan A venue

station at Chicago A venue and LaS alle 43 Street in the hopping r estaurant-andentertainment mecca of Riv er North, and the 24th District station (known as Town Hall) at Addison and Halsted streets, near the busy strip of sports bars and nightclubs in Wrigleyville.

9 S U S TA I N A B L E TO U R I S M economies and communities, regardless of location. You can embrace ethical tourism by staying at a locally o wned hotel or shopping at a stor e that emplo ys local workers and sells locally produced goods. Responsible T ravel (www .responsible travel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is r un by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable T ravel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators ar ound the world. In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www. tourismconcern.org.uk) wor ks to r educe social and envir onmental pr oblems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent T our Operators (AITO) (www.aito.co.uk) is a gr oup of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable. Volunteer trav el has become incr easingly popular among those who want to venture bey ond the standar d gr oup-tour experience to learn languages, interact with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation. Volunteer travel usually doesn’t r equire special skills—just a willingness to work hard—and programs vary in length fr om a fe w days to a number of weeks. Some programs provide free housing and food, but many require volunteers to pay for trav el expenses, which can add up quickly.

2 S U S TA I N A B L E TO U R I S M

Sustainable tourism is conscientious travel. I t means being car eful with the environments you explore, and r especting the communities y ou visit. Two o verlapping components of sustainable trav el are ecotourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines ecotourism as responsible travel to natural ar eas that conser ves the envir onment and improves the well-being of local people. TIES suggests that ecotourists follow these principles: • Minimize environmental impact. • Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect. • Provide positiv e experiences for both visitors and hosts. • Provide dir ect financial benefits for conservation and for local people. • Raise sensitivity to host countries’ political, environmental, and social climates. • Support international human rights and labor agreements. You can find some eco-friendly trav el tips and statistics, as w ell as touring companies and associations—listed by destination under “ Travel Choice”—at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org. Also check out Ecotravel.com, which lets y ou search for sustainable touring companies in several categories (water-based, land-based, spiritually oriented, and so on). While much of the focus of eco-tourism is about r educing impacts on the natural environment, ethical tourism concentrates on ways to pr eserve and enhance local

P L A N N I N G A FA M I LY T R I P TO C H I C AG O

and State Street and connect to the North Side via Lincoln Park. Blue-and-white police cars ar e a common sight, and officers also patr ol b y bicycle downtown and along the lakefront and b y horseback at special ev ents and parades. There are police stations in busy nightlife ar eas, such as the 18th D istrict

44 Tips

It’s Easy Being Green

P L A N N I N G A FA M I LY T R I P TO C H I C AG O

Here are a few simple ways you can help c onserve fuel and ener gy when you travel:

T R AV E L I N G S A F E LY W I T H K I D S I N C H I C AG O

2

• Each time y ou take a flight or driv e a car g reenhouse gases r elease int o the atmosphere. You can help neutraliz e this danger t o the planet thr ough “carbon off setting”—paying someone t o in vest y our money in pr ograms that r educe y our g reenhouse gas emissions b y the same amount y ou’ve added. Before buying carbon offset credits, just make sure that you’re using a reputable company, one with a proven program that invests in renewable energy. Reliable carbon off set c ompanies include Carbonfund ( www. carbonfund.org), TerraPass (w ww.terrapass.org), and Carbon Neutr al (www.carbonneutral.org). • Whenever possible, choose nonstop flights; they generally r equire less fuel than indir ect flights that st op and take off again. Try t o fly during the day—some scientists estimat e that nigh ttime flights ar e t wice as harmful to the en vironment. And pack light— each 15 pounds of luggage on a 5,000-mile flight adds up t o 50 pounds of carbon dio xide emitt ed. • Where you stay during your travels can have a major environmental impact. To determine the g reen credentials of a pr operty, ask about trash disposal and recycling, water conservation, and energy use; also question if sustainable materials were used in the c onstruction of the pr operty. The website

For general info on v olunteer trav el, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www. idealist.org. Before you commit to a v olunteer pr ogram, it ’s impor tant to make sure any money you’re giving is truly going back to the local community , and that

the work you’ll be doing will be a good fit for y ou. Volunteer I nternational (www. volunteerinternational.org) has a helpful list of questions to ask to determine the intentions and the natur e of a v olunteer program.

1 0 T R AV E L I N G S A F E LY W I T H K I D S I N C H I C AG O The easiest way to stay safe in Chicago is to hold hands with y our kids. I t’s safe and fun, without being o verly protective. Keep your kids close and within ey eshot, and be extra car eful around busy intersections. Cabs will not slo w do wn for anyone—even families with kids. D o not cross anywher e but at traffic lights (it sounds obvious, but I’ve seen parents with strollers cr ossing in the middle of busy streets). Again, driv ers won’t stop for y ou

in the city just because you have a stroller. Stay on major str eets and av oid construction sites. Visitors should steer clear of situations where kids could get lost in a cr owd. A t the ballpark, at the end of the game, wait until most of the cr owd files out so kids can go at their o wn pace. R emember, Michigan A venue and major attractions can get cr owded in the summer . Make contingency plans for r euniting, ev en

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•

•

•

major attractions, y ou may be able to avoid taking a stroller because most places rent them. If you do feel the need to bring a stroller, make sure it’s light and narrow— some of the stur dy but wide str ollers ar e hard to maneuver through city crowds and narrow store aisles. Several books on the market offer additional tips to help y ou trav el with kids. How to Take Great Trips with Your Kids (The H arvard Common P ress; $9.95) is full of good general advice that can apply to travel anywhere. Family Travel Times (& 888/822-4FTT [822-4388]; www . familytraveltimes.com) is an ex cellent online newsletter updated twice monthly . Subscriptions ar e $39 a y ear, $49 for 2 years. Sample articles are available on the newsletter’s website. Other recommended family travel Internet sites include Family Travel F orum (www .familytravelforum. com), a compr ehensive site that offers

2 T R AV E L I N G S A F E LY W I T H K I D S I N C H I C AG O

in the most or dinary situations. S tart at the information desk at whatev er attraction y ou’re visiting, and make a plan to meet there in case y ou and y our kids get split up. Another tip is to use public transportation. I f y ou ar e driving in to the city , park in a central location and walk or take the El or bus. D on’t plan on taking a cab with small childr en unless y ou want to carry a car seat with y ou. S ome par ents find trains to be easier with childr en than buses because y ou can r oll str ollers right onto trains, and you don’t have to stand on a busy str eet corner as y ou would if waiting for the bus. Finally, travel light and av oid being overburdened or distracted b y too much gear. Carry water, juice, and snacks (downtown, y ou will pay a ton to buy these items). Also, be pr epared for a lack of chain fast-food outlets. When visiting

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•

www.greenhotels.com r ecommends g reen-rated member hot els ar ound the world that fulfill the c ompany’s stringent en vironmental requirements. Also c onsult www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com f or mor e g reen accommodation ratings. At hotels, request that your sheets and t owels not be changed daily . (Many hotels alr eady ha ve pr ograms like this in plac e.) Turn off the lights and air-conditioner (or heat er) when y ou leave your room. Use public transport where possible—trains, buses and even taxis are more energy-efficient f orms of transpor t than driving . E ven bett er is t o walk or c ycle; y ou’ll pr oduce z ero emissions and sta y fit and health y on y our travels. If r enting a car is nec essary, ask the r ental agent f or a h ybrid, or r ent the most fuel- efficient car a vailable. You’ll use less gas and sa ve money at the tank. Eat at locally o wned and operat ed restaurants that use pr oduce g rown in the ar ea. This c ontributes t o the local ec onomy and cuts do wn on g reenhouse gas emissions by supporting restaurants where the food is not flown or trucked in acr oss long distanc es. Visit Sustain Lane (w ww.sustainlane. org) t o find sustainable eating and drink ing choic es ar ound the U .S.; also check out www.eatwellguide.org for tips on eating sustainably in the U .S. and Canada.

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P L A N N I N G A FA M I LY T R I P TO C H I C AG O

Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource

T R AV E L I N G S A F E LY W I T H K I D S I N C H I C AG O

2

It should go without saying, but we highly recommend Frommers.com, voted Best Travel Site by PC Magazine. We think you’ll find our expert advice and tips; independent r eviews of hot els, r estaurants, attractions, and pr eferred shop ping and nightlif e v enues; vacation g iveaways; and an online book ing t ool indispensable before, during, and af ter your travels. We publish the c omplete contents of more than 128 travel guides in our Destinations section, covering nearly 3,800 plac es worldwide t o help y ou plan y our trip. Each w eekday, we publish original articles reporting on Deals and News via our free Frommers. com Newsletter to help y ou save time and money and tra vel smar ter. We’re betting y ou’ll find our new Events listings (http://ev ents.frommers.com) an invaluable resource; it’s an up-to-the-minute roster of what’s happening in cities ev erywhere—including c oncerts, f estivals, lec tures, and mor e. We’ve also added w eekly Podcasts, in teractive maps , and hundr eds of new images across the sit e. Check out our Travel Talk ar ea, f eaturing Message B oards where you can join in conversations with thousands of fellow Frommer’s travelers and post your trip report once you return.

customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an award-winning site that provides travel features, deals, and tips; andFamily Travel Files (www .thefamilytravelfiles.com), which has an online magazine and a directory of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour operators for families.

PLANNING YOUR OUTINGS

Planning a day of touring a city with kids is a little like mapping out a military campaign: You should hav e a list of sights to hit, and a precise idea of how you will get from one activity to the next, leaving time in betw een for potty br eaks and snack stops. If you plan car efully and center all your days’ activities in close proximity, you can sav e y ourself a lot of wasted transit time. Prime ar eas for families include the Magnificent M ile, with the J ohn H ancock Center , American G irl P lace, The Apple S tore, N iketown, and other shopping destinations; Streeterville, home of

Navy Pier and the Museum of Contemporary Art; River North, with lots of chain establishments, including ESPN Z one, Hard R ock Cafe, R ock ’n’ R oll M cDonald’s, The Rainforest Café, and Ed Debevic’s; Lincoln Park, with the park, zoo, and botanical gar dens; Museum C ampus, with four museums within walking distance of each other; and Hyde Park, home to the Museum of Science and Industry.

FINDING A RESTROOM

The number-one tip for visitors from Chicago par ents: Kno w wher e the near est restroom is at all times! First order of business: Always use the bathr oom at y our hotel befor e y ou leav e, and stop in the restroom before you leave any museum or restaurant. Failing that, key r estrooms in prime locations include 900 N. Michigan Avenue mall, on the second and fifth floors; John H ancock Center , in the lower level; Water Tower Place; and Nordstrom, in the Shops at North Bridge mall on M ichigan A venue, just south of the Chicago Riv er. M ost Starbucks coffee

bathrooms according to cleanliness, safety, and aesthetic beauty (believe it or not!).

NURSING MOMS & INFANTS

Chicago is like any other city—it ’s made up of all kinds of people. While most people will see a nursing mom and look the other way, some might star e rudely. If you need to br east-feed an infant, y ou’ll probably feel most comfor table in women’s lounges in major depar tment stor es (Nordstrom is best).

1 1 S TAY I N G CO N N E C T E D TELEPHONES

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 and then the ar ea code and number; an operator will come on the line, and y ou should specify whether y ou are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator. For local directory assistance (“information”), dial 411; for long-distance information, dial 1, then the appr opriate area code, and 555-1212.

CELLPHONES

Just because your cellphone works at home doesn’t mean it ’ll work everywhere in the U.S. (thanks to our nation ’s fragmented cellphone system). It’s a good bet that your phone will work in major cities, but take a look at y our wir eless company ’s co verage map on its w ebsite befor e heading out; T-Mobile, Sprint, and N extel are particularly w eak in r ural ar eas. I f y ou need to stay in touch at a destination wher e y ou know y our phone won ’t wor k, rent a phone that does fr om InTouch USA (& 800/872-7626; www .intouchglobal. com) or a rental-car location, but be aware that y ou’ll pay $1 a minute or mor e for airtime.

2 S TAY I N G CO N N E C T E D

Generally, hotel sur charges on long-distance and local calls ar e astr onomical, so you’re better off using your cellphone or a public pay telephone. Many convenience groceries and packaging ser vices sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50; for international visitors, these can be the least expensiv e way to call home. Many public pay phones at airpor ts now accept American E xpress, M asterCard, and Visa cr edit car ds. Local calls made from pay phones in most locales cost 50¢ (no pennies, please). Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed dir ectly fr om any phone. For calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the sev en-digit number . For other inter national calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and number you are calling. Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 ar e toll-fr ee. H owever, calls to ar ea codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, “dating” ser vices, and so on) can be very expensive—usually a charge of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute, and they sometimes have minimum charges that can run as high as $15 or mor e.

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shops have restrooms—just ask the barista for the key. Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores typically hav e bathrooms near the children’s section. Major hotel lobbies are also good bets. M ost r estaurants will take pity on a distr essed child, so just ask; some store owners may do the same. If you are r eally concerned about mapping out nearby bathr ooms, ther e’s ev en a w ebsite dedicated to the topic. The B athroom Diaries (www .thebathroomdiaries.com) lists 10,000 bathrooms around the world, everywhere from Cambodia to Antarctica, with a focus on the U.S. R eaders rank

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G E T T I N G TO K N O W C H I C AG O

2

Tips

Hey, Google, did you get my text message?

It’s bound to happen: The day you leave this guidebook back at the hot el for an unencumbered stroll through [neighborhood in your destination], you’ll forget the address of the lunch spot you had earmarked. If you’re traveling with a mobile device, send a text message to & 46645 (GOOGL) for a lightning-fast response. For instance, type “carnegie deli new york” and within 10 seconds you’ll receive a text message with the address and phone number. This nifty trick works in a range of search categories: Look up weather (“weather philadelphia”), language translations (“translate goodbye in spanish”), currency conversions (“10 usd in pounds”), movie times (“harry potter 60605”), and more. If your search results are off, be more specific (“the abbey gay bar west hollywood”). For more tips and search options, see www.google.com/intl/en_us/mobile/sms. Regular text message charges apply.

If y ou’re not fr om the U.S., y ou’ll be appalled at the poor r each of our GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications) wireless network, which is used by much of the rest of the world. Your phone will pr obably wor k in most major U.S. cities; it definitely won ’t wor k in many rural ar eas. To see wher e GSM phones work in the U.S., check out www.t-mobile. com/coverage/national_popup.asp. And you may or may not be able to send SMS (text messaging) home.

INTERNET/E-MAIL

Without Your Own Computer

To find cyber cafes in y our destination, check www.cybercaptive.com and www. cybercafe.com. Most major airpor ts hav e Internet kiosks that provide basic Web access for a per-minute fee that ’s usually higher than cybercafe prices. Check out copy shops like Kinko’s (F edEx O ffice), which offer computer stations with fully loaded software (as well as Wi-Fi).

With Your Own Computer

More and mor e hotels, r esorts, airpor ts, cafes, and r etailers are going Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity), becoming “hotspots ” that offer fr ee high-speed Wi-Fi access or charge a small fee for usage. Wi-Fi is even found in campgr ounds, R V par ks, and entire towns. Most laptops sold today have built-in wireless capability. To find public Wi-Fi hotspots at y our destination, go to www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world’s largest directory of public wireless hotspots. For dial-up access, most business-class hotels in the U.S. offer datapor ts for laptop modems, and a few thousand hotels in the U.S. and E urope now offer fr ee highspeed Internet access. Wherever y ou go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cor d, and a spar e Ethernet network cable—or find out whether y our hotel supplies them to guests. For information on electrical curr ency conversions, see “E lectricity,” in the “F ast Facts” section of the appendix.

1 2 G E T T I N G TO K N O W C H I C AG O The best advice on orienting y ourself on Chicago’s str eets? Look for our inland

ocean. Whenever you spot Lake Michigan dead ahead, y ou ar e facing east. Another

VISITOR INFORMATION

G E T T I N G TO K N O W C H I C AG O

The Chicago Conv ention and Tourism Bureau r uns a toll-fr ee visitor hot line (& 877/CHICAGO [244-2246] or TTY 866/710-0294; www .choosechicago.com) and operates two visitor information centers staffed with people who can answ er questions. Stop her e to stock up on br ochures on area attractions, including materials on everything from museums and city landmarks to lakefr ont biking maps and even fishing spots. The main visitor center, located in the Loop and conv enient to many places that you’ll likely be visiting, is on the first floor of the Chicago Cultural Center, 78 E. Washington St. (at M ichigan Ave.). The center has a phone that you can use to make hotel r eservations, and several couches and a cafe wher e you can study maps and plan y our itinerar y. The center is open M onday thr ough F riday from 10am to 6pm, S aturday from 10am to 5pm, and S unday from 11am to 5pm; it’s closed on holidays. A second, smaller center is located in the heart of the city’s shopping district, in the old pumping station at M ichigan and Chicago av enues. R ecently r enamed the Chicago Water Works Visitor Center, its entrance is on the P earson S treet side of the building, across from the Water Tower Place mall. It’s open daily 7:30am to 7pm. This location has the added draw of housing a location of Hot Tix, which sells both half-price day-of-per formance and fullprice tickets to many theater pr oductions around the city, as w ell as a gift shop and a Chicago Flat Sammies restaurant. Part of

49 the building has been conv erted into a theater, including a small cabar et space for tourist-oriented sho ws and a larger playhouse for the acclaimed Lookingglass Theatre. The Illinois B ureau of Tourism (& 800/2CONNECT [226-6632] or TTY 800/406-6418; www .enjoyillinois. com) can pr ovide general and specific information 24 hours a day . Many of the bureau’s br ochures can be or dered online or picked up at the Water Works Visitor Center (see above). INFORMATION BY TELEPHONE The Mayor’s Office of Special Events operates a recorded hot line ( & 312/744-3370 or TTY 312/744-2964; www .cityofchicago. org), which lists curr ent special ev ents, festivals, and parades occurring thr oughout the city. PUBLICATIONS Pick up a free copy of Chicago Parent magazine at any bookstore, 2 public librar y, par k district building, or children’s specialty shop. You will also find copies in ne wspaper v ending bo xes on Michigan A venue. Each issue includes a daily calendar of ev ents and a museum page that keeps r eaders abr east of ne w openings of interest to kids. Each June, the magazine publishes its annual Going Places guide. Call the magazine ’s offices in O ak Park at & 708/386-5555 to order one. Chicago’s major daily ne wspapers ar e the Tribune and the Sun-Times. Both have cultural listings, including mo vies, theaters, and liv e music, not to mention reviews of the latest r estaurants that ar e sure to have appeared in the city since this guidebook went to pr ess. The Friday editions of both papers contain special pullout sections with more detailed, up-to-date information on special ev ents happening over the w eekend. The Tribune also publishes Red Eye, a weekday tabloid aimed at younger readers with a mix of “lite ” news items, enter tainment ne ws, and quir ky features.

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directional no-brainer? I f y ou ar e on the Magnificent Mile, or in the Loop, look up. The tallest building ar ound is that black glass behemoth, the S ears Tower, and it ’s to the south. The orderly configuration of Chicago’s str eets and the ex cellent public transportation system make this city mor e accessible than most of the world ’s other large cities.

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Value Insider

Tours—for Free!

Want your kids to see the city from a native’s point of view? Chicago Greeter, a program run by the Chicago Office of Tourism, matches tourists with local Chicagoans who serve as volunteer guides. Visitors can request a specific neighborhood or theme (everything from Polish heritage sites to Chicago movie locations), and a greeter gives a free 2- to 4-hour tour. (Greeters won’t escort groups of more than six people.) Kids of all ages are welcome (bringing newborns on the tours, however, is discouraged). When you call, please specify that you will be using a stroller so that your guide can plan accordingly for accessing public transportation. Chicago Greeter offers a special “Kids Activities” tour that includes Navy Pier. Other popular family tours include Lincoln Park Zoo and the Shedd Aquarium (see the website or call for details). Specific requests for these kid-friendly tours should be made at least a w eek in advance, but “InstaGreeters” are also available on a first-come, first-served basis, for 60-minute walking visits, at the Chicago Cultural Center, 77 E. Randolph St., from 10am to 4pm Friday through Sunday. For details, call & 312/744-8000 or visit www.chicagogreeter. com. Millennium Park Greeter service originates from the Millennium Park Welcome Center (201 E. Randolph St.) and offers a free walking tour of the 24.5-acre park.

Chicago magazine is an upscale monthly with good r estaurant listings. E ven better for short-term visitors is the w eekly magazine Time O ut Chicago , which lists just about ev erything going on ar ound to wn during the week, from art openings to theater per formances. For a look at the city ’s beautiful people, pick up CS (formerly Chicago Social), a glossy monthly magazine filled with photos fr om charity galas and ads for high-priced local boutiques. In a class by itself is the Chicago Reader (& 312/828-0350; www .chicagoreader. com), a fr ee w eekly that is an inv aluable source of enter tainment listings, classifieds, and w ell-written ar ticles on contemporary issues of inter est in Chicago . Published every Thursday (except the last week of D ec), the w eekly has a wide distribution downtown and on the N orth Side; it is av ailable in many r etail stor es, in building lobbies, and at the paper ’s offices, 11 E. I llinois S t., b y about noon on Thursday.

Another free weekly, New City (& 312/ 243-8786; www .newcitychicago.com), also publishes ex cellent compr ehensive listings of enter tainment options. A ppealing to a slightly younger audience than the Reader, New C ity has an editorial tone tending to ward the edgy and irr everent. Published ev ery Wednesday, it ’s av ailable in the same neighborhoods and locations as the Reader. Most Chicago hotels stock their r ooms or lobbies with at least one informational magazine, such as Where Chicago, that lists the city ’s enter tainment, shopping, and dining locales.

CITY LAYOUT

The Chicago River forms a Y that divides the city into its thr ee geographic z ones: North S ide, S outh S ide, and West S ide (Lake M ichigan is wher e the East S ide would be). The do wntown financial district is called the Loop. The city ’s key shopping str eet is North M ichigan Avenue, also known as the Magnificent Mile

people no w liv e within a day ’s driv e of 51 Chicago. The r eal signatur e of Chicago, however, is found betw een the suburbs and the Loop, where a colorful patchwork quilt of r esidential neighborhoods giv es the city a character all its o wn. FINDING AN ADDRESS H aving been a part of the Northwest Territory, Chicago is laid out in a grid system, with the streets neatly lined up as if on a giant piece of graph paper. Because the city itself isn’t rectangular (it ’s rather elongated), the shape is a bit irr egular, but the perpendicular pattern r emains. Easing mo vement through the city ar e a half-doz en or so major diagonal thoroughfares. Point zero is at the downtown intersection of S tate and M adison str eets. State Street divides east and west addresses, and Madison S treet divides nor th and south addresses. F rom her e, Chicago ’s highly

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(Michigan Ave. is home to 600 stores!). In addition to department stores and vertical malls, this stretch of property north of the river houses many of the city ’s most elegant hotels. N orth and south of this downtown z one, Chicago str etches along 29 miles of Lake M ichigan shoreline that is, by and large, fr ee of commercial development, r eserved for public use as gr een space and parkland from one end of to wn to the other. Chicago pr oper today has 3 million inhabitants living in an ar ea about twothirds the siz e of N ew York City; another 5 million make the suburbs their home. The villages north of Chicago now stretch in an unbr oken mass nearly to the Wisconsin bor der; the city ’s w estern suburbs extend 30 miles to N aperville, one of the fastest-growing to wns in the nation o ver the past 2 decades. A total of 59 million

2

A River Runs Through It

The Chicago R iver remains one of the most visible of the cit y’s major physical features. It’s spanned by more movable bridges (52 at last count) than any city in the w orld. An almost-m ystical moment oc curs do wntown when all the bridges spanning the main and south branches—connecting the Loop to both the near West Side and the near Nor th Side—are raised, allowing for the passage of some ship or bar ge or c ontingent of high-mast ed sailboats. The Chicago R iver has long outliv ed the critical c ommercial func tion that it onc e performed. Most of the remaining millworks that still occupy its banks no longer depend on the riv er alone for the transport of their materials, raw and finished. The river’s main function today is to serve as a fluvial conduit for sewage, which, owing to an eng ineering feat that r eversed its flo w inland in 1900, no longer pollutes the waters of Lake Michigan. Recently, Chicagoans have begun to disc over another r ole f or the riv er—a leisur e r esource, pr oviding shor t cruises on its wat er, park areas, cafes, and public ar t installations on its banks , and the beginnings of a riverside bike path that connects to the lakefront route near Wacker Drive. Actually, today’s developers aren’t the first t o wonder why the river couldn’t be Chicago ’s S eine. A look at the early-20th- century Beaux Arts balustrades lining the riv er along Wacker Drive, complete with c omfortably spac ed benches—as w ell as P arisian-style bridge houses—sho ws that Chicago-based ar chitect Daniel Burnham k new full w ell what a tr easure the city had.

G E T T I N G TO K N O W C H I C AG O

Fun Facts

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predictable addr essing system begins. Making use of this grid, it is relatively easy to plot the distance in miles betw een any two points in the city. All of Chicago ’s principal nor th-south and east-west arteries are spaced b y increments of 400 in the addr essing system— regardless of the number of smaller str eets nestled between them. And each addition or subtraction of 400 numbers to an address is equiv alent to a half-mile. Thus, starting at point z ero on M adison S treet and traveling north along State Street for 1 mile, y ou will come to 800 N. S tate St., which intersects Chicago A venue. Continue upto wn for another half-mile and you arriv e at the 1200 block of N orth State S treet at D ivision S treet. And so it goes, right to the city line, with suburban Evanston at the 7600 block nor th, 9 1/2 miles from point zero. The same rule applies when you’re traveling south, or east to west. Thus, heading west fr om S tate S treet along M adison Street, H alsted S treet—at 800 W. M adison St.—is a mile’s distance, while Racine Avenue, at the 1200 block of West Madison S treet, is 1 1/2 miles fr om the center . Madison S treet then continues w estward

to Chicago’s boundary with the near suburb of O ak P ark along A ustin A venue, which, at 6000 W. M adison, is appr oximately 71/2 miles from point zero. The key to understanding the grid is that the side of any squar e formed b y the principal avenues (noted in dark or red ink on most maps) r epresents a distance of half a mile in any dir ection. Understanding how Chicago’s grid system wor ks is of particular impor tance to those visitors who want to do a lot of walking in the city’s many neighborhoods and who want to plot in adv ance the distances inv olved in trekking from one locale to another. The other ingeniously conv enient aspect of the grid is that ev ery major road uses the same numerical system. I n other words, the cr oss str eet (D ivision S t.) at 1200 N. Lake S hore D r. is the same as at 1200 N. Clark St., which is the same as at 1200 N. LaSalle St., and so on. STREET MAPS Maps ar e av ailable at the city’s visitor information centers at the Chicago C ultural Center and the Chicago W ater W orks Visitor Center (see “Visitor Information,” near the beginning of this chapter).

NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF T HE L OOP & VICINITY Downtown In the case of Chicago, downtown means the Loop . The Loop refers literally to a cor e of primarily commercial, governmental, and cultural buildings contained within a corral of elevated train tracks. H owever, gr eater downtown Chicago o verflows these confines and is bounded b y the Chicago Riv er to the nor th and w est, b y Michigan A venue to the east, and b y Roosevelt A venue to the south. The main attractions for families in the Loop ar e M illennium P ark, the Ar t Institute, the C ultural Center, and the Harold Washington Library. If you are

catching a sho w, you’ll find the r evitalized theater district in the N orth Loop. Macy’s on S tate S treet, famous for its window decorations during the holidays, anchors a strip of r etail shopping. T HE N ORTH S IDE Near North/Magnificent M ile N orth Michigan Avenue is known as the Magnificent Mile, from the bridge spanning the Chicago River to its northern tip at Oak S treet. M any of the city ’s best hotels, shops, and r estaurants are to be found on and ar ound elegant N orth Michigan A venue. The ar ea str etching east of M ichigan A venue to the lake is also sometimes r eferred to as

Devon Ave. e.

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NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF

Ave.

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Moments

NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF

2

Frommer’s Favorite Oh-So-Chicago Experiences

• Strolling the Lak efront. Chicagoans use the lakefr ont in ev ery possible way: for walking, rollerblading, biking, running, swimming, picnicking, and playing volleyball. Summers on the lakefr ont can get a little cr owded, but that’s part of the fun. E ven in wint er, you can see har dy souls out f or a run while waves crash onto the shoreline. Most activity takes place around Oak Street Beach and Nor th Avenue Beach. • Sightseeing on the Chicago R iver and Lak e M ichigan. By far the best way to scope out the cit y is b y tak ing a boat t our. Getting ont o the wat er gives y ou a fr esh perspec tive on a cit y that g rew up ar ound a lake and a river. Options include dinner cruises , speedboats, architectural tours, water taxis, and tall ships . S ee “Kid-Friendly Tours,” in chapt er 6, f or suggestions. • Cheering the C ubbies. Wrigley Field is not t o be missed . In fact, Chicagoans regularly play hooky to hang out in the bleachers on a per fect summer afternoon. Eat a hot dog . Ex ercise y our lungs during the sing ing of “Take Me Out t o the Ball G ame.” I’ m sur e y ou’ll lea ve ag reeing with me that Wrigley Field is the most charming ballpark in America. • Riding the El . The noisy , dir ty El ( Chicago’s elevat ed train), which blocks sunlight fr om the str eets beneath its tracks , is a quint essential par t of Chicago. E ven if y ou ha ve no where in par ticular t o go, hop on the El and ride around the L oop. The Brown Line heading south takes y ou on an up close-and-personal view of Chicago’s financial center. See “Getting Around,” below, for more on riding the El . Also see the bo x “Sky Train: Chicago’s El ” for more on the hist ory of the trains (p . 62).

“Streeterville”—the legacy of G eorge Wellington “Cap” Streeter, an eccentric, bankrupt showman who staked out 200 acres of self-created landfill here about a century ago after his steamship had run aground on the shore, and then declared himself “ governor” of the “D istrict of Lake Michigan.” True story. River N orth J ust to the w est of the Mag Mile’s zone of high life and sophistication is an old war ehouse district called Riv er North. It’s also the site of most chain restaurants that cater to the kid set. Ov er the past 15 to 20 y ears, the area has experienced a rebirth as one of the city ’s most vital commer cial districts, and today it is filled with many of

the city’s hottest restaurants, nightspots, art galleries, and loft dw ellings. Several large-scale r esidential loft-conv ersion developments hav e lately been spr outing on its w estern and southw estern fringes. The G old Coast Some of Chicago ’s most desirable r eal estate and historic architecture are found along Lake Shore Drive, betw een O ak S treet and N orth Avenue and along the adjacent side streets. Despite trendy little pockets of real estate popping up else where, the moneyed class still prefers to live by the lake. This r esidential ar ea doesn’t offer much for kids, but it does hav e beautiful scenic str eets for walking. O n the

55

neighborhood’s w estern edge, the northern str etch of S tate S treet just south of D ivision Street has, in r ecent years, developed into a thriving zone of restaurants, bars, and nightclubs. Old Town West of LaSalle Street, principally on N orth Wells S treet betw een Division S treet and N orth A venue, is the nightlife district of O ld Town. On Wells Street, and a fe w blocks east and a fe w blocks w est on N orth A venue, you’ll find plenty of families and str ollers during the day . This ar ea was a hippie hav en in the 1960s and 1970s, but in r ecent y ears its r esidential ar eas have been rapidly gentrified as Cabrini

Green, America’s most notorious housing pr oject, has finally fallen to the wrecking ball. Old Town’s biggest claim to fame, the legendar y S econd City comedy club, has ser ved up the lighter side of life to Chicagoans for more than 30 years. Lincoln Park Chicago’s most popular residential neighborhood is fashionable Lincoln P ark. The neighborhood is notable for visiting families because it is bordered on the east b y the huge par k of the same name, which is home to two major museums and one of the nation’s oldest z oos (established in 1868). The trapezoid formed b y Clark

2 NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF

• Discovering Wonders at Chicago’s Museums. Generations of Chicagoans recall permanent exhibits at Chicago museums with nostalg ia. I r emember Colleen M oore’s Fairy Castle at the Museum of S cience and I ndustry—the most fantastic dollhouse y ou’ll ev er see . M y br other will nev er f orget the Model Railway at the same museum. Whatever your family’s fancy, you can find an exhibit about it somewher e among the A dler Planetarium & Astronomy Museum, F ield Museum of Natural H istory, Ar t I nstitute of Chicago, Museum of S cience and I ndustry, John G. Shedd A quarium, or Museum of C ontemporary Ar t. And don’t miss out on Chicago ’s Museum C ampus—a landscaped 57-acr e area with t erraced gar dens and br oad walk ways that ’s home t o the F ield Museum of Natural H istory, John G. Shedd A quarium, and the A dler Planetarium & A stronomy Museum. I n my humble opinion, the Museum C ampus is the most impr essive c ollection of museums in the most beautiful setting anywhere in the c ountry. For more on Chicago ’s museums, see chapt er 6.

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• Getting the Blues . This most American of music f orms is v enerated b y Chicagoans, who keep the blues aliv e nightly in the cit y’s clubs . Chicago style blues is what most people think of when y ou mention liv e blues played in a nightclub setting. Catching a blues act is a great way for grownups t o spend a night out on the t own (see the bo x “If You Ha ve a Sitt er: The Music S cene” in chapt er 10).

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Street, Armitage Avenue, Halsted Street, and D iversey P arkway also contains many of Chicago ’s most happening bars, r estaurants, r etail stor es, music clubs, and off-Loop theaters—including the nationally acclaimed S teppenwolf Theatre Company. Lakeview & Wrigleyville W rigleyville is the name giv en to the neighborhood in the vicinity of Wrigley Field—home of the Chicago Cubs—at Sheffield Avenue and A ddison S treet. M any homesteaders hav e mo ved into these ar eas in r ecent y ears, and a sle w of nightclubs and r estaurants hav e follo wed in their wake. M idway up the city ’s North S ide is a one-time blue-collar , now mainstr eam middle-class and bohemian quar ter called Lakevie w. I t has become the neighborhood of choice for many gays and lesbians, r ecent college graduates, and a gr owing number of residents priced out of Lincoln P ark. The main thor oughfare is B elmont Avenue, betw een B roadway and S heffield Avenue. Uptown & Andersonville U ptown, along the lake and about as far north as Foster Avenue, is wher e the latest wav e of immigrants—including internal migrants fr om A ppalachia and the Native American reservations—has settled. Vietnamese and Chinese immigrants hav e transformed Argyle S treet between Broadway and S heridan Road into a teeming mar ket for fr esh meat, fish, and all kinds of ex otic vegetables. Slightly to the north and west is the old Scandinavian neighborhood of Andersonville, whose main drag is Clar k Street, between Foster and B ryn Mawr avenues. This neighborhood is friendly to families, with the feel of a small Midwestern village, albeit one with an eclectic mix of M iddle Eastern r estaurants, a distinct cluster of women-o wned businesses, and a burgeoning gay and

lesbian community . You’ll find Ann Sather r estaurant, the S wedish-American Museum, the S wedish Bakery, and Women and Childr en F irst, a gr eat bookstore. Lincoln Square Families flock to O ld Town School of F olk M usic’s theater and education center, a beautiful r estoration of a former librar y building, in this neighborhood w est of Andersonville and slightly to the south, wher e Lincoln, Western, and Lawr ence av enues intersect. Lincoln S quare was the home to Chicago ’s once-v ast G ermanAmerican community. Lincoln S quare is hopping with hot r estaurants and chic shops as the surrounding leafy residential streets are now experiencing an influx of white middle-class families. Rogers Park Rogers Park, which begins at D evon A venue, is on the nor thern fringes of the city bor dering suburban Evanston. I ts w estern half has been a Jewish neighborhood for decades. The eastern half, dominated by Loyola University’s lakefr ont campus, has become the most cosmopolitan enclav e in the entire city: Asians, East I ndians, R ussian Jews, and G erman Americans liv e side by side with African Americans and the ethnically mix ed student population drawn to the Catholic univ ersity. Much of R ogers Park has a neo-hippie ambience, but the w estern str etch of Devon Avenue is a M idwestern slice of Calcutta, settled b y I ndians who ’ve transformed the str eet into a v eritable restaurant row of tandoori chicken and curry-flavored dishes. T HE WEST S IDE West Loop Also kno wn as the N ear West Side, the neighborhood just across the Chicago River from the Loop is the city’s newest gentrification target, as old warehouses and once-v acant lots ar e transformed into tr endy condos. The stretch of Randolph S treet just w est of

However, in r ecent y ears, its pr ospects 57 have turned around. The South Loop— stretching fr om H arrison S treet’s historic P rinters R ow south to Cermak Road (wher e Chinato wn begins), and from Lake S hore D rive w est to the south branch of the Chicago Riv er—is one of the fastest-gr owing r esidential neighborhoods in the city. Pilsen Originally home to the nation ’s largest settlement of Bohemian-Americans, P ilsen (which deriv es its name from a city in Bohemia) was for decades the principal entry point in Chicago for immigrants of every ethnic stripe. Centered at H alsted and 18th str eets just southwest of the Loop , it is no w the second-largest Mexican-American community in the United States. One of the city’s most vibrant and color ful neighborhoods, P ilsen has been happily invaded b y the outdoor mural mo vement launched y ears earlier in M exico, 2 and it has a pr ofusion of authentic taquerias and bakeries. The neighborhood’s annual Day of the Dead celebration, which begins in S eptember, is an elaborate festival that r uns for 8 w eeks. The ar tistic spirit that permeates the community isn ’t confined to Latin American ar t. In recent years a div erse group of ar tists, drawn par tly b y the availability of loft space in P ilsen, have nurtured a small but thriving ar tists’ colony. Bridgeport & Canaryville B ridgeport, whose main intersection is 35th and Halsted streets, has been the neighborhood of two M ayor Daleys, father and son (the son moved not too long ago to the ne w Central S tation dev elopment in the S outh Loop ar ea). After the old Comiskey P ark was torn do wn, the Chicago White S ox stay ed in B ridgeport, inaugurating their ne w stadium there. N earby Canar yville, just south and west, is typical of the “back of the

P L A N N I N G A FA M I LY T R I P TO C H I C AG O NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF

Hwy. 90/94 and the surrounding blocks are known as “Restaurant Row” for the many dining spots that cluster ther e. Nearby, on H alsted S treet betw een Adams and Monroe streets, is Chicago’s old “Greek Town,” still the G reek culinary center of the city. Much of the old Italian neighborhood in this vicinity was the victim of urban r enewal, but remnants still sur vive on Taylor Street; the same is tr ue for a fe w old delis and shops on M axwell S treet, dating fr om the turn of the 20th centur y, when a large J ewish community liv ed in the area. Bucktown/Wicker P ark Center ed near the confluence of N orth, Damen, and Milwaukee avenues, where the Ar t Deco N orthwest Tower is the tallest thing for miles, this r esurgent ar ea is said to be home to the thir d-largest concentration of ar tists in the countr y. Over the past centur y, the ar ea has hosted wav es of G erman, Polish, and, most r ecently, Spanish-speaking immigrants (not to mention writer N elson Algren). In recent years, it has morphed into a bastion of hot ne w r estaurants, alternative cultur e, and loft-dw elling yuppies surfing the gentrification wav e that’s washing over this still-some whatgritty neighborhood. T HE S OUTH S IDE South Loop The generically r echristened S outh Loop ar ea was Chicago ’s original “Gold Coast” in the late 19th century, with P rairie A venue (no w a historic district) as its most ex clusive address. B ut in the wake of the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition in Hyde Park, and continuing thr ough the P rohibition era of the 1920s, the ar ea was infamous for its Lev ee vice district, home to gambling and pr ostitution, some of the most corr upt politicians in Chicago history, and Al Capone’s headquarters at the old Lexington H otel.

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yard,” blue-collar neighborhoods that once surr ounded the Chicago S tockyards. Neither ar ea offers much to the typical visitor; in fact, “outsiders” aren’t all that welcome. Hyde P ark Hyde P ark’s main attraction for families is the world-famous Museum of Science and I ndustry. Hyde Park is like an independent village within the confines of Chicago, right off Lake Michigan and r oughly a 30-minute train ride from the Loop. The main

drag is 57th S treet, and the U niversity of Chicago—with all its attendant shops and restaurants—is the neighborhood ’s principal tenant. The most successful racially integrated community in the city, H yde P ark is an oasis of furious intellectual activity and liberalism that, ironically, is hemmed in on all sides b y neighborhoods suffering some of the highest crime rates in Chicago.

13 GET TING AROUND The best way to tour Chicago is b y walking its str eets. Fortunately, it’s also one of the easiest ways to get ar ound with kids. But when walking is not practical—such as when mo ving betw een distant neighborhoods or getting around on cold winter days—Chicago’s public train and bus systems are efficient modes of transportation. In fact, they may be the least expensiv e way of entertaining your child while visiting the city.

BY PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION

The Chicago Transit A uthority (CT A) operates an extensiv e system of trains and buses throughout the city of Chicago. The sturdy system carries about 1.5 million passengers a day . S ubways and elev ated trains (known as the E l) are generally safe and r eliable, although it ’s advisable to avoid long rides through unfamiliar neighborhoods late at night. The bus and the E l each hav e pros and cons when traveling with kids. Parents with infants might prefer the El, since carrying a baby and a str oller up the bus steps (then paying the fare and finding a seat as the bus lurches into traffic) requires strength, coordination, and ner ves of steel. U ntil y our child can climb up steps, the easy-on, easyoff advantage of the E l makes it the better choice (in spite of the fact that y ou might

have to carr y y our str oller up and do wn stairs to reach the train platform). Fares for the bus, sub way, and E l ar e $2, with an additional 25¢ for a transfer that allows CTA riders to make two transfers on the bus or E l within 2 hours of receipt. Childr en 6 and under ride fr ee, and those betw een the ages of 7 and 11 pay $1 (15¢ for transfers). S eniors can also r eceive the r educed far e if they hav e the appr opriate r educed-fare permit (call & 312/836-7000 for details on ho w to obtain one, although this is probably not a realistic option for a shor t-term visitor). However, if y ou pur chase a Chicago Card (the CT A’s cr edit car d–sized far e cards that automatically deduct the exact fare each time you take a ride), the cost per ride is less—$1.75 per ride. The reusable cards can be purchased with a preset value already stored, or riders can obtain cards at vending machines located at all CTA train stations and charge them with whatev er amount they choose (a minimum of $2 and up to $100). If within 2 hours of your first ride y ou transfer to a bus or the E l, the turnstiles at the El stations and the fare boxes on buses will automatically deduct from your card just the cost of a transfer (25¢). I f y ou make a second transfer within 2 hours, it’s free. The same card can be recharged continuously.

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Ticket to Ride

still av ailable at some E l stations to offer customer assistance. BY THE EL & THE SUBWAY The rapid transit system operates sev en major lines, which the CTA recently began identifying by color (although Chicagoans often still refer to them by their points of origin): the Red Line (also known as the Howard/Dan Ryan Line) r uns nor th-south; the Green Line (also kno wn as the Lake S t. Line) runs w est-south; the Blue Line (also known as the O’H are Line) r uns w estnorthwest to O’H are Airport; the Brown Line (also kno wn as the Rav enswood Line) runs in a nor thern zigzag r oute; the Orange Line r uns southw est, ser ving Midway airpor t, and the Pink Line r uns east-west fr om the loop , ser ving Cicer o. The Purple Line, which runs on the same Loop elev ated tracks as the O range and Green lines, ser ves north suburban E vanston only during rush hour. Study your CTA map car efully (there’s one printed on the inside back co ver of this guide) befor e boar ding any train. Most trains r un ev ery 5 to 20 minutes, decreasing in fr equency in the off-peak and o vernight hours, but some stations close after work hours (as early as 8:30pm) and r emain closed on S aturday, S unday, and holidays. O nly two lines operate 24

2 GETTING AROUND

Fare car ds can be used on buses, but you can’t buy a card on the bus. If you get on the bus without a fare card, you’ll have to pay $2 cash (either in coins or in dollar bills); the bus drivers cannot make change, so make sur e that y ou’ve got the right amount before hopping onboard. CTA INFORMA TION The CT A operates a useful telephone information service (& 312/836-7000 or TTY 312/8364949 fr om any ar ea code in the city and suburbs) that functions daily from 5am to 1am. When you want to know how to get from where you are to where you want to go, call the CT A. M ake sur e that y ou specify any conditions you might require— the fastest r oute, for example, or the simplest (the route with the fewest transfers or the least amount of walking), and so forth. You can also check out the CT A’s website at www.transitchicago.com. E xcellent comprehensive CTA maps, which include both El and bus r outes, are usually av ailable at subway or El stations, or by calling the CTA. The CTA also has added a tollfree customer ser vice hot line ( & 888/ YOUR-CTA [968-7282] or TTY 888/ CTA-TTY1 [282-8891] M on–Fri 7am– 8pm, with v oice mail operating afterhours) to field questions and feedback. Although the far e-box system has eliminated the need for ticket agents, agents are

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Visitors may consider buying a Visitor Pass, which works like a fare card and allows individual users unlimited rides on the El and C TA buses over a 24-hour period. The 1-day cards cost $5 and are sold at airports, hotels, museums, Hot Tix outlets, transportation hubs, and Chicago Office of Tourism visitor information centers. You can also buy them in advanc e online at www.transitchicago.com or by calling & 888/YOUR-CTA (968-7282). Also available now are 2-, 3-, and 5- day passes (they cost $9, $12, and $18, respectively). Although the passes save you the trouble of feeding the fare machines yourself, remember that they’re economical only if you plan to make at least three distinct trips at least 2 or mor e hours apart. (You get two additional transfers for an additional 25¢ on a r egular fare.)

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Tips F ree Ride During the summer, the city of Chicago operates kid-pleasing free trolleys daily between Michigan Avenue and the Museum Campus (site of the Adler Planetarium, the Field Museum of Natural History, and the Shedd Aquarium); the trolleys run only on weekends in the fall and spring. Free trolleys also run year-round between Navy Pier and the Grand/State Street El station on the Red Line . The trolleys are supposed to make stops every 30 minutes, but waits can be far longer during peak tourist season—and the trolleys aren’t air-conditioned. If you get tired of waiting, remember that CTA public buses travel the same routes for only $2 per person.

hours a day. The CTA has posted timetables on the E l platforms so that y ou can determine when the next train should arrive. BY BUS Chicago’s compr ehensive system of public buses means vir tually every place in the city is within close walking distance of a bus stop. Other than on foot or bicy cle, the best way to get ar ound Chicago’s warr en of neighborhoods—the best way to actually see what ’s ar ound you—is by riding a public bus. ( The view from the elevated trains can be pretty dramatic, too; the differ ence is that on the trains you get the backyar ds, while on the bus you see the buildings’ facades and the street life.) Look for the blue-and-white signs to locate bus stops, which are spaced about 2 blocks apart. A few buses that ar e particularly handy for many visitors are the no. 146 Marine/ Michigan, an expr ess bus fr om B elmont Avenue on the N orth S ide that cr uises down N orth Lake S hore D rive (and through Lincoln P ark during nonpeak times) to N orth M ichigan A venue, S tate Street, and the G rant Park museum campus; the no. 151 S heridan, which passes through Lincoln P ark en r oute to inner Lake S hore D rive and then trav els along Michigan A venue as far south as A dams Street, where it turns w est into the Loop (and stops at U nion Station); and the no. 156 LaSalle, which goes thr ough Lincoln

Park and then into the Loop ’s financial district on LaSalle Street. If you need a bus that r uns east-w est, the no. 66 Chicago (Ave.) runs through the heart of the Magnificent Mile (a popular place to hop on is just w est of M ichigan A ve. at Chicago Ave.). Pace buses (& 312/836-7000 fr om any Chicago area code, or 847/364-7223, Mon–Fri 8am–5pm; www .pacebus.com) cover the suburban z ones that surr ound Chicago. They run every 20 to 30 minutes during rush hour, operating until midevening M onday thr ough F riday and early evening on weekends. Suburban bus routes are marked no. 208 and abo ve, and v ehicles may be flagged do wn at intersections because few of the lines have bus stops that are marked.

BY COMMUTER TRAIN

If you plan to visit suburban destinations, your best public transpor tation bet is the Metra commuter railr oad ( & 312/3226777 or TTY 312/322-6774 M on–Fri 8am–5pm; at other times, call R egional Transportation Authority [RTA] at & 312/ 836-7000 or TTY 312/836-4949; www . metrarail.com). The Metra ser ves the sixcounty suburban ar ea ar ound Chicago with 12 train lines. S everal terminals ar e located downtown, including Union Station at A dams and Canal str eets, LaSalle Street S tation at LaS alle and Van B uren streets, Ogilvy T ransportation Center

Downtown El & Subway Stations Clark

State

LAKE ST.

RANDOLPH ST.

Washington

Washington

Randolph WASHINGTON ST.

GRANT

Madison

T H E

MADISON ST.

Monroe MONROE ST.

L O O P

Quincy QUINCY

Adams Art Institute of Chicago

ADAMS ST.

Jackson

ST.

LaSalle

PARK

JACKSON BLVD.

(formerly known as Northwestern Station and still referred to as such b y many Chicagoans) at M adison and Canal str eets, and Randolph S treet S tation at Randolph Street and Michigan Avenue. To visit some of the most affluent suburbs in the countr y, take the Union Pacific North Line (previously known as the North Western train), which departs at the N orth Western S tation, and select from among the follo wing destinations: Kenilworth, Winnetka, G lencoe, H ighland Park, and Lake Forest. The Metra Electric (once known as the Illinois Central–Gulf Railroad, or the IC) runs close to Lake M ichigan on a track that occupies some of the most v aluable

WABASH AVE.

STATE ST.

DEARBORN ST.

CLARK ST.

ST. LASALLE

WELLS ST.

LaSalle

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Library CONGRESS PKWY.

Free Train Connections

real estate in Chicago . I t will take y ou to H yde P ark. You can catch the M etra Electric in the Loop at the Randolph Street Station and at the Van Buren Street Station at Van B uren S treet and M ichigan A venue (both of these stations ar e underground). Commuter trains hav e graduated far e schedules based on the distance y ou ride. On weekends and holidays and during the summer, M etra offers a family discount that allows up to three children under age 12 to ride free when accompanying a paid adult. The commuter railroad also offers a $5 w eekend pass for unlimited rides on Saturday and Sunday.

GETTING AROUND

FRANKLINST.

VAN BUREN ST.

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Purple Line (Evanston Express) Red Line Blue Line (O’Hare Airport) Brown Line Orange Line (Midway Airport) Green Line

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Fun Facts

GETTING AROUND

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Sky Train: Chicago’s El

It’s a rare Hollywood film or TV series set in the Windy City that doesn’t frame its stars against that most ar chetypal of Chicago images: the cit y’s elevat ed train sy stem, mor e c ommonly k nown as the “El.” But the orig in of the El has nothing t o do with its c elebrated g ritty, rumbling , rail-scr eeching urban aesthetic. Chicago made a miraculous recovery after the Great Fire of 1871—within 20 years, a sea of neighborhoods appear ed on f ormer prairies and swamps , and the downtown district overflowed with people, streetcars, wagons, horses, and horse droppings. The boom cr eated t wo problems: I t was har d to get do wntown quickly in the pr e-automobile era, and onc e you got do wntown, it was impossible to actually move around. So Chicago t ook t o the sk y, building a sy stem of elevat ed trains 15 f eet above all the madness. The South Side line (part of today’s Green Line) was the first, opening in 1892 and running t o 39th Str eet, about 5 miles south fr om downtown; the following year, the line was extended to Jackson Park, bringing commuters to the World’s Fair. In 1893, the Lake Street line (also part of today’s Green Line) began running t o the West Side, and the M etropolitan West Side Elevated (par t of t oday’s Blue Line , ser ving the Nor thwest and West sides) opened in 1895. The first El trains on the S outh Side and Lake Str eet lines w ere steam-powered, but the Metropolitan West Side Line debuted with a newfangled elec tric style of train. The cleaner, quieter trains w ere a hit, and the other El lines f ollowed the West Side’s lead. In 1896, the Lake Street Line started using electricity, and the S outh Side Line got wir ed in 1898. These lines w ere run b y competing companies, and each line had its o wn terminal on the outsk irts of downtown; so c ommuters still had t o negotiat e the traffic and the filth of downtown streets once they got off the train. In 1895, the three El companies collaborated to build a set of tracks into and around the central business district that all the lines would then share. By 1897, the “Loop” was up and running , but it w ould take almost 100 y ears before the “El” would connect the whole city. Chicago’s El wasn ’t the nation ’s first. That honor belongs t o New York Cit y, which started running its elevated trains in 1867, 25 y ears before Chicago. But the New York El has almost disappear ed, mo ving under ground and turning into a subway early last c entury. With 289 miles of track , Chicago has the biggest El in the country, and the second-largest public transportation system.

BY TAXI

I don ’t r ecommend taking taxis with infants and v ery y oung childr en because unless the taxi is a ne w model, y ou may not be able to latch y our car seat in the back. With older childr en, however, taxis

are a pr etty affordable way to get ar ound the Loop and to get to the dining, shopping, and enter tainment options found beyond do wntown, such as on the near North S ide, in O ld Town and Lincoln

BY C AR

GETTING AROUND

Chicago is laid out so logically that it ’s relatively easy for visitors to get around the city b y car . Although r ush-hour traffic jams ar e just as fr ustrating as they ar e in other large U.S. cities, traffic r uns fairly smoothly at most times of the day . The combination of wide str eets and strategically spaced expr essways makes for generally easy riding. B ut Chicagoans hav e learned to be pr epared for unexpected delays; it seems that at least one major highway and several downtown streets are under r epair thr oughout the spring and summer months. (S ome say w e have two seasons here: winter and construction.) Diagonal corridors—such as Lincoln Avenue, Clark Street, and Milwaukee Avenue—slice through the grid pattern at key points in the city and shor ten many a trip that would other wise be tedious on the checkerboard sur face of the Chicago streets. Lake Shore Drive (also kno wn as the Outer Dr.) has to be one of the most scenic and useful urban thor oughfares anywhere. You can travel the length of the city (and bey ond), nev er far fr om the Great Lake that is Chicago ’s most aw esome natural feature.

DRIVING RULES One bizarre anomaly 63 in the organization of Chicago ’s traffic is the occasional absence of signal lights off the principal avenues, notably in the River North and S treeterville neighborhoods. A block east or west of the Magnificent Mile (North Michigan Ave.)—one of the most traveled str eets in the city—y ou will in some cases encounter only stop signs to control the flo w of traffic. O nce y ou’ve become accustomed to the system, it works v ery smoothly, with all—pedestrians and motorists alike—adv ancing in their proper turn. Unless otherwise posted, a right turn on red is allo wed after stopping and signaling. PARKING Parking r egulations ar e vigorously enforced throughout the city. Read signs carefully: The streets around Michigan A venue hav e no-par king r estrictions during r ush hour—and believ e me, y our car will be to wed immediately . M any 2 neighborhoods have adopted resident-only parking that prohibits others from parking on their streets, usually after 6pm each day (even all day in a fe w ar eas, such as O ld Town). The neighborhood ar ound Wrigley F ield is off-limits during C ubs night games, so look for y ellow side walk signs alerting driv ers during the doz en-and-ahalf or so times the Cubs play under lights. You can par k in r esident-only permit zones if y ou’re visiting a friend, who can provide y ou with a pass to stick on y our windshield. B eware of to w z ones, and, if visiting in winter , make note of curbside warnings regarding snow plowing. A safe bet is v alet parking, which most restaurants pr ovide for ar ound $10. Downtown you can also opt to par k in a public garage, but y ou might hav e to pay the premium prices common in any metropolitan area. (Several garages connected with malls or other major attractions offer discounted par king with a v alidated ticket.)

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Park, and on the near West Side. But for longer distances, the fares will add up. Taxis ar e easy to hail in the Loop , on the Magnificent Mile and the Gold Coast, in River North, and in Lincoln P ark, but if y ou go much bey ond these key ar eas, you might need to call. Cab companies include Flash C ab (& 773/561-1444), Yellow C ab (& 312/TAXI-CAB [8294222]), and Checker C ab (& 312/ CHECKER [243-2537]). The meter in Chicago cabs curr ently starts at $2.25 and costs 20¢ for each 1/9 of a mile, and 20¢ for each 36 seconds of time elapsed, with a $1 sur charge for the first additional passenger, and 50¢ for each person after that.

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The very best parking deal in the Loop is the East M onroe G arage (www .grant parkparking.com), which charges $13 for 12 hours or fe wer (enter on Columbus Dr., 1 block east of M ichigan Ave., btw. Monroe and Randolph sts.). Also r elatively affor dable and super convenient ar e the r emaining public par king lots underneath Grant Park (including Grant Park South, G rant P ark N orth, and Millennium P ark garages) with entrances at Michigan Avenue at Van Buren Street and Michigan Avenue at Madison Street. Parking v aries for each garage, but some can cost up to $25 for an 8- to 24-hour stay . You’ll find higher prices at most other downtown lots, including McCormick Place P arking, 2301 S. Lake S hore D r. Midcontinental (& 312/791-7000); Plaza Garage, 55 E. Monroe St. (& 312/ 986-6821); and Navy Pier Parking, 600 E. Grand Ave. (& 312/595-7437). CAR RENT AL Hertz (& 800/6543131), Avis (& 800/831-2847), National (& 800/227-7368), and Budget (& 800/ 527-0700) all hav e offices at O’H are Airport and at M idway Airpor t. Each company also has at least one office downtown: Hertz at 401 N. S tate St., Avis at 214 N. Clark St., National at 203 N. LaS alle St., and B udget at 714 S. Wabash St. B efore you r ent, please be awar e that Chicago ’s sales tax on car rentals is a steep 20%.

BY B OAT

Boat transport is a great way to get around with kids. And boat traffic in Chicago has been stirring up a bigger wake r ecently. Shoreline S ightseeing (& 312/2229328; shor elinesightseeing.com) ferries passengers on the Chicago Riv er between Sears Tower, Michigan Avenue, Navy Pier, and M useum Campus for rates ranging from $3 to $13 for adults (depending on the distance of the trip) and $2 to $7 for kids. The water taxis operate daily Memorial Day to Labor Day from 10am to 6pm about every half-hour.

If y ou ar e staying in the suburbs and traveling to the M agnificent M ile, kids will lo ve a ride on the M etra commuter train followed by a ride on a shuttle boat operated b y Wendella Commuter B oats (& 312/337-1446; www .wendellaboats. com), which float daily A pril thr ough October betw een a dock at M ichigan Avenue, LaS alle/Clark S treet, M adison Street, and Chinato wn. The ride, which costs $2 each way (or $3 round-trip), takes about 10 minutes and is popular with both visitors and commuters. An all-day pass is $4. The ser vice operates about every 20 minutes from 6:30am to 7pm.

BY BICYCLE

I wouldn ’t r ecommend tr ying to ride bicycles on the city str eets with kids. Although the city of Chicago has earned kudos for its efforts to improve conditions for bicy cling (designated bike lanes hav e been installed on str etches of Wells S t., Roosevelt Rd., E lston A ve., and H alsted St.), it can still be rough trying to compete with cars and their driv ers, who ar en’t always so willing to shar e the road. If you are determined to bike with y our kids, though, y ou might want to take to the lakefront path or ar ea par ks. M ake sur e you wear a helmet at all times! Bike Chicago (& 888/BIKE-WAY [245-3929] or & 312/729-1000; www . bikechicago.com) has four locations, including N avy P ier, M illennium P ark, North A venue B each, and F oster B each. The shops rent all sorts of bikes, including tandems and four-seater “ quadcycles,” baby seats, in-line skates, and S egways. Bikes rent for as little as $8 an hour or up to $40 a day (rates ar e $6 for kids ’ bikes, and $25 for the day). H elmets, pads, and locks ar e fr ee. H ours v ary b y location (Millennium P ark’s location opens at 6:30am while F oster Beach’s doesn’t open until 11am), so check the w ebsite or call. The Chicagoland B icycle F ederation (& 312/427-3325; www.biketraffic.org),

a nonpr ofit adv ocacy gr oup, is a good resource for bicy clists. The gr oup publishes several bicycling maps with tips on

recommended on-str eet r outes and par kland routes, and a guide to safe cy cling in the city.

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1 4 G E T T I N G K I D S I N T E R E S T E D I N C H I C AG O

2 G E T T I N G K I D S I N T E R E S T E D I N C H I C AG O

Columbian Exposition; Playoff Dreams, by Fred Bo wen, in which a bo y attends a ballgame with his uncle at Wrigley F ield and learns the story of the legendary Cubs player and H all of F ame member E rnie Banks; and The Dr agon of N avy P ier, by Kate N oble, in which Charlie, a y oung dragon on a car ousel, comes aliv e one night and sets out to explor e Navy Pier. Show your kids photos of landmar ks— Wrigley Field is a familiar sight to most of us. You might also find photos of S oldier Field, U nited Center (with its statue of Michael J ordan), the soaring J ohn H ancock Center (with its gir ded black Xs crisscrossing all the way up the building), the Chicago Water Tower (the only building to sur vive the fir e of 1871, allegedly started b y Mrs. O’Lear y’s co w), S ears Tower, and the lakefr ont. D iscuss the E l trains and show kids photos of the elevated tracks. S how them the Chicago bridges that rise and lo wer, stopping traffic so boats can make their way to the lake. Tell them that the Chicago Riv er that these bridges span r uns fr om the lake (rather than into it, as most rivers do)—and about the engineering mar vel that r eversed its flow.

P L A N N I N G A FA M I LY T R I P TO C H I C AG O

Kids will be most inter ested in y our upcoming adventure when they have input into the activities y ou plan. Use this book to tell your kids about the great adventures awaiting them in Chicago—riding the E l, climbing into a captur ed World War II U-boat at the M useum of Science and Industry, riding a high-speed elev ator to see the sights fr om the J ohn H ancock Center, or going to a M cDonald’s that ’s also a rock-‘n’-roll museum. Movie-wise, you can rent Blues Brothers (1979) and show Jake and Elmo jumping the bridge acr oss the riv er and car eening down the str eet under the E l tracks. The movie features a classic multicar pileup in the center of downtown Daley Plaza. Ferris Bueller’s D ay O ff (1985) is the ultimate teenage wish-fulfillment movie, set in Chicago and the suburbs. I n fact, most of the John Hughes movies (Pretty in P ink, Sixteen Candles, and The Breakfast Club) are set in the Chicago area. Children’s books set in Chicago that will be r eadily av ailable at y our local library or bookstor e include Fair Weather, by Richard Peck, in which a 19th-centur y farming family is turned upside down by a visit to Chicago for the 1893 World’s

3

Suggested Chicago Itineraries Chicago’s sprawling nature means

that reaching outlying neighborhoods and suburbs r equires a fair amount of trav el, but these itineraries aim to keep the walking and E l- or taxi-riding to a minimum by keeping y ou near the city center—the Loop. When touring on your own, remember to bear in mind the travel time between

sights or neighborhoods. The tours below seek to balance monumental ar chitectural highlights with visits to the city ’s best museums and z oo. Along the way , y ou’ll get intimate glimpses into what life as a Chicagoan might be and what makes Chicago run.

1 T H E B E S T O F C H I C AG O I N 1 D AY Capturing Chicago in 1 day means sur veying the scene in the most efficient way possible—via our inland ocean, Lake M ichigan, and its tributar y, the Chicago Riv er—and branching out fr om there to experience what I feel is Chicago ’s best museum for kids. Bring good walking shoes and as much energy as you can muster. This itinerary takes you on a tour boat (always a kid-pleaser), into the depths of the M useum of Science and Industry, and leav es you to explor e the M agnificent Mile at leisur e, with its glittering shops and r estaurants and highly enter taining people-watching. Start: B us 151 to Michigan Avenue Bridge or Red Line to Grand/State, then head to the boat tour stop of y our choice. Two of the most popular ar e Wendella Boats (on the nor thwest corner of the bridge) and the Chicago Architectural Foundation tours (on the southeast cor ner). 1 Boat Tours

Start the day with a boat tour of the Chicago Riv er and Lake M ichigan. E ven if your kids ar e small, they ’ll love being on the water, while y ou mar vel at our spectacular ar chitecture. (Chicago is a sho wcase of modern ar chitecture; for mor e on our best buildings, pick up Frommer’s Chicago.) S ome tours take y ou up and down the Chicago Riv er, then thr ough locks that r elease the boat into Lake Michigan. If you just want to get out on the water and don ’t car e about a guided tour, hop on one of the water taxis that cruise from Ogilvy Transportation Center (many locals will refer to this train station

as “Northwestern S tation”) to N avy P ier, with stops at Wabash Street and Michigan Avenue, and mor e. A t $2 a ride, it ’s the best deal on the river. See p. 204. 2 Museum of Science and Industry Back on land, head to the Museum of Science and I ndustry, the classic Chicago kids’ attraction that never fails to enthrall. Don’t miss seeing two of the all-time and favorite exhibits—the U-505 Coal M ine . B est for older kids (the preschool set might be frightened b y the darkness and cramped spaces), the U-505 is a German submarine that was captur ed

3 The Art Institute

Walk nor th along M ichigan A venue and you’ll come to this bridge, which spans the Chicago River. Stop here for a great photo op looking west to the ne west addition to the city’s skyline, the Trump International Tower and Hotel.

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5 The Magnificent Mile

The 14-block stretch of Michigan Avenue from the river to Oak Street, known as the “Magnificent Mile,” is shopping central, a dense concentration of high-rise malls, designer boutiques, and practically ev ery mass-market clothing brand. R estaurants also abound: O ne perennial kid-pleaser is The Cheesecake F actory, on the lo wer level of the J ohn H ancock Center. Walk off that rich cheesecake with a str oll along Michigan Avenue, going north toward the lakefront walking path. Although y ou won’t see the sun set over the lake (remember, the lake is always to the east), the colors can be spectacular anyway. (On the other side of the lake, those in M ichigan and Indiana have the opposite vie w: They never see the sun rise o ver the lake, only set.) See p. 208. 6 The Hancock Observatory

The view from the top of Chicago’s thirdtallest building is enough to satisfy , but some high-tech additions ar e her e to enhance y our experience. “ Talking telescopes” pr ovide sound effects and narration in four languages; histor y walls illustrate the gr owth of the city; and the Skywalk open-air vie wing deck—a “screened por ch”—allows visitors to feel the r ush of the wind at 1,000 feet. Kids can also check out the building ’s infrastructure on computers and find 80 Chicago attractions on virtual-reality television screens, or take a multimedia “ sky tour.” See p. 175.

3 T H E B E S T O F C H I C AG O I N 1 D AY

The Ar t I nstitute goes the extra mile to help kids get thr ough a fe w hours her e without even a hint of boredom. With the addition of the Modern Wing (it opens in spring 2009), ther e will be an ev en larger space for families. The R yan E ducation Center, which co vers the entir e first floor of the east pavilion of the M odern Wing, is dedicated to kids, with its own galleries, studio space, and mor e. Even better is the fact that families can enter the space without paying admission to the museum—an amazing deal! Another kid fav orite is the Thorne M iniature R ooms, with its tiny r eproductions of furnished interiors from European and American histor y. See p. 178.

4 Michigan Avenue Bridge

S U G G E S T E D C H I C AG O I T I N E R A R I E S

in 1944 and br ought to the museum 10 years later. Your kids will undoubtedly join the legions who hav e been fascinated b y the claustr ophobic r eality of under water naval life. The full-scale Coal Mine, which dates back to 1934, no w incorporates modern mining techniques into the exhibit. M ore lo w-tech—but fun for kids—are The Farm (where children can sit at the wheel of a giant combine) and the chick hatcher y inside the exhibit Genetics: Decoding Life. Here, y ou can watch as tiny ne wborn chicks poke their way out of eggs. G irls (myself included) tend to lo ve Colleen Moore’s Fairy Castle, a lavishly decorated miniatur e palace filled with priceless tr easures. ( Yes, those are real diamonds and pearls in the chandeliers.) When you’ve worked up an appetite, you can visit the F ood Court, which has an ex cellent selection of amazingly healthy and tasty choices—follo w it up with a decadent stop at F innegan’s I ce Cream Parlor. See p. 170.

N. Fremont St.

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DAY THREE Lincoln Park Zoo 1 Farm-in-the-Zoo 2 Big Cats Café 3 North Avenue Beach 4 Armitage Avenue 5 Bucktown 6 Northside Café 7 Second City 8A ImprovOlympic 8B ComedySportz 8C

ARMITAGE

S U G G E S T E D C H I C AG O I T I N E R A R I E S

e L a k

DAY TWO Field Museum of Natural History 1 Buckingham Fountain 2 Lake Michigan or Chicago River cruise/ Shoreline Sightseeing 3 Navy Pier/ Chicago Children's Museum 4 Joe's Be-Bop Café & Jazz Emporium 5 Wrigley Field 6 Julius Meinl 7 Southport Avenue 8 Buddy Guy's Legends 9 Kingston Mines 9A Blue Chicago 9B B.L.U.E.S. 9C

M

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DAY ONE Chicago ArchiCenter 1 The Art Institute 2 Millenium Park 3 Park Grill 4 Michigan Avenue Bridge 5 The Magnificent Mile 6 Hancock Observatory 7 Oak Street Beach 8 Third Coast 9 The Gold Coast 10

T H E B E S T O F C H I C AG O I N 1 D AY

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Suggested Chicago Itineraries

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Take a Break Graceland Cemetery

W. Grand Ave. N. M W. Hubbard St. ilw au W. Kinzie St. ke N. Sangamon St. e Av N. Peoria St. e. N. Green St. W. Fulton St.

s bu N. Stetson Ave.

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2 T H E B E S T O F C H I C AG O I N 2 D AYS

S U G G E S T E D C H I C AG O I T I N E R A R I E S

Use your second day in Chicago to experience spectacular M illennium Park. Then head over to the countr y’s largest aquarium, the S hedd Aquarium, and take in the dolphin show. Spend the ev ening cheering on the home team at one of America ’s venerable old ballparks, Wrigley Field. Start: Red Line to R andolph/State or B us 151 to M ichigan and Randolph.

T H E B E S T O F C H I C AG O I N 2 D AYS

3

1 Millennium Park

Chicago’s latest and greatest public project has proven to be a wonder fully interactive park for kids. E ven the sculptur e is interactive—the “bean ” b y Anish Kapoor is essentially a gigantic 3-D mirr or with its reflective sur face and house-of-mirr ors qualities. At the Crown Fountain, another kid favorite, faces of Chicagoans ar e projected through the glass blocks and change at r egular inter vals—watch out, because water spews from their mouths when y ou least expect it. I n warm w eather, it ’s a wonderful place to take your shoes off and splash. The par k’s centerpiece is the J ay Pritzker P avilion, with its F rank G ehry– designed ribbons of silv er steel; the ar chitect also designed the adjoining serpentine bridge. See p. 168. PARK GRILL

Take a lunch br eak at the P ark Grill ( & 312/521-7275; www . parkgrillchicago.com; daily 11am–10:30pm), an eatery overlooking the McCormick Tribune Plaza ic e-skating rink. Next door t o the g rill, P ark C afé off ers takeout picnic baskets, salads , and sandwiches . P arking is easy , t oo, with plentiful under ground lots at the bar gain rate of $12, one of the better deals in the city.

2 Navy Pier

Yes, it ’s touristy . Yes, it ’s cr owded. B ut Navy Pier is also full of energy—and if you stroll all the way to the end, y ou’ll be rewarded with gr eat vie ws of do wntown. Stopping at N avy P ier is pr etty much

mandatory when visiting Chicago with kids; there’s a carousel and other carniv altype rides and lots of boats to admir e, not to mention the Chicago Childr en’s Museum. See p. 174. JOE’S BE-BOP CAFE & JAZZ EMPORIUM

Owned by the same family that runs Jazz Sho wcase, one of the best jazz clubs in t own, this Na vy Pier cafe offers a fun atmospher e (with plent y of out door seating), Southern barbecue, and a g reat soundtrack. 600 E. Grand A ve. & 312/ 595-5299. See p. 273.

3 John G. Shedd Aquarium

First things first: Make sure you buy tickets for the dolphin sho w upon y our arriv al. While you wait for the sho w, walk ar ound the Caribbean Coral R eef exhibit. This 90,000-gallon cir cular tank occupies the Beaux Arts–style central rotunda, entertaining spectators who press up against the glass to ogle divers feeding nurse sharks, barracudas, stingrays, and a hawksbill sea tur tle. The dolphin sho w takes place in the 3-million-gallon saltwater Oceanar, an indoor marine mammal ium pavilion that re-creates a Pacific Northwest coastal envir onment and also happens to be the largest of its kind in the world. Soundings, the r estaurant inside the aquarium, has a spectacular vie w of Lake Michigan. See p. 165. 4 Wrigley Field

In the ev ening, if the C ubs ar e in to wn, take the El uptown and catch a night game

at Wrigley F ield. D ine on hot dogs or bratwurst while you sip a beer and the kids polish off cotton candy and licorice whips,

and cheer on the C ubs with the other perennially hopeful fans. See p. 278.

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3 T H E B E S T O F C H I C AG O I N 3 D AYS

1 Lincoln Park Zoo

ZOO EATS Between exhibits, stop for lunch at the Park Place Café food court, located in a historic building that originally was Chicago’s first aquarium. Alternately, you can stop at Big Cats Café, a rooftop eatery in the Mahon Theobold Pavilion. It opens at 8am (1 hr. before the exhibits do) and serves fresh-baked muf fins and scones, focaccia sandwiches, salads, and flatbreads.

2 Farm-in-the-Zoo

Just south of the z oo, this re-creation of a working farm gets children in touch (literally) with animals. B ut the highlight for many little ones seems to be the giant John Deere tractor; y ou’ll usually find a line of kids waiting to be hoisted up to sit behind the massive steering wheel. See p. 197. 3 Oak Street Beach

Where Michigan Avenue merges into Lake Shore Drive at Oak Street, head down the underpass to get to O ak S treet B each, a curved stretch of sand that’s a summertime hot spot. B ikers, skaters, and joggers fill the paths, while kids play in the sand. Think of it as Chicago ’s o wn minir esort getaway—but unless y ou’re visiting us in the heat of June, July, or August, I wouldn’t plan on swimming in the generally frigid water. See p. 168. 4 The Field Museum of Natural History You’ll feel as though you’ve entered a truly grand place when y ou walk into the museum’s massiv e S tanley F ield H all. Indeed, the Field Museum is one of those classic something-for-ev eryone institutions, with ev erything from animal dioramas to S ue, the largest Tyrannosaurus r ex fossil ever discovered. The Field upped the ante for kids when it added the C rown

3 T H E B E S T O F C H I C AG O I N 3 D AYS

This charming urban z oo is so compact that a tour of the v arious habitats takes all of 2 or 3 hours—a conv enience factor even mor e enticing when y ou consider that the nation’s oldest zoo (it was founded in 1868) stays open 365 days a year and is one of the last fr ee z oos in the countr y. The star attraction is the lo wland gorillas at the Regenstein Center for African Apes . The zoo has had remarkable success in br eeding both gorillas and chimpanzees, and watching these ape families is mesmerizing. The popular Sea Lion Pool is home to harbor seals, gray seals, and California sea lions. Finish your visit with a ride (y ou’ll pay a fe w dollars per rider , and the price is w ell worth it) on the gorgeous Endangered Species Carousel. See p. 197.

S U G G E S T E D C H I C AG O I T I N E R A R I E S

Use your third day in Chicago to amble around the lovely grounds of one of the country’s oldest (and, thankfully, still fr ee of charge) z oos, or, if y our kids ar e older, head to the Museum Campus to visit the Field Museum. End your day with an evening of theater at one of the N orth Loop Theater D istrict’s many r estored historic theaters, or at B riar Street Theatre, home to B lue Man Group’s popular sho w (but only for kids age 5 and over, please). Start: Bus 151 to Lincoln Park Zoo.

S U G G E S T E D C H I C AG O I T I N E R A R I E S

72

T H E B E S T O F C H I C AG O I N 3 D AYS

3

Family P laylab, wher e kids can dr ess up like a local animal and star in their o wn nature play , explor e a pueblo home, or examine insects in amber . The I nside Ancient E gypt exhibit is mor e than just mummies: I t’s a complete r e-creation of ancient daily life, including a marketplace, a r oyal barge, and r eligious shrines (with lots of hands-on activities for kids). The second-floor African and S outh P acific exhibits are also worth a stop, with beautifully designed interactive displays that feel like movie sets. See p. 162.

5 Briar Street Theatre

The kid-pleasing Blue M an G roup, at Briar Street Theatre in Lincoln Park, mixes percussion, per formance ar t, mime, and rock ’n’ roll. The three strangely endearing performers, whose faces and heads ar e covered in latex and blue paint, know how to get the audience involved. I dare you to find a kid who doesn ’t get a kick out of seeing the Blue Men stuff their faces (literally) with marshmallo ws. Of all the longrunning hits in Chicago, this is the one to beat—and the best kid-pleaser in to wn. See p. 259.

Family-Friendly Accommodations Downtown Chicago is packed with

hotels, and the good ne ws for families is that although most of the hotels ar e oriented to the city’s convention trade, plenty cater to families. I n fact, you won’t have a problem finding midrange, family-friendly hotels in the most conv enient neighborhoods, such as Riv er North and ev en the Magnificent Mile, with the R ed Roof Inn and Cour tyard b y M arriott M agnificent Mile taking their places near the luxur y hotels. I n the high-end mar ket, a r ecent building boom has br ought international players such as the Peninsula and Sofitel to the Midwest (and most recently, Mr. Donald Trump and his Trump I nternational Hotel and Tower), but these wonder ful hotels are not the kind that most families can afford. And though Chicago is not a city wher e luxur y hotels hav e dibs on all the prime r eal estate, budget lodgings ar e becoming har der to find anywher e near downtown. Because Chicago ’s hospitality industr y caters first and for emost to the business traveler, hotels tend to empty out b y Friday. Thus, hotels are sometimes willing to reduce prices on the w eekends to push up their occupancy rate. (K eep in mind, though, that r ooms ar e sometimes av ailable at r ock-bottom rates during conv entions if a hotel is unable to book to capacity.) And many hotels kno wn as “business hotels” have made efforts to add family-friendly amenities to entice families to stay the weekend. Still, the hotel industry has been so strong in Chicago in recent years that y ou won ’t find r eservations agents as willing or able to wheel and deal as they once were.

Warning: You never know when a huge convention will gobble up all the desirable rooms in the city , ev en on a w eekend. Check the conv ention schedule on p . 19, and make sur e to book a r oom w ell in advance whenever you plan to visit. If the city has a slo w season, it ’s the depth of winter , when outsiders tend to shy away fr om the cold and the thr eat of being sno wed in at O’H are. S erious bargain hunters might choose to visit then. The Chicago Conv ention & Tourism Bureau usually offers a special promotion, “Winter D elights,” fr om J anuary to March. Call & 877/244-2246 for a br ochure, or check out www .choosechicago. com. The pr omotion includes discounts on many of Chicago ’s leading hotels and restaurants. Tip: If you’d like to watch your pennies but the idea of trav eling in the dead of winter—and bundling the kids up 20 times a day as y ou pop in and out of attractions, restaurants, and y our hotel— doesn’t appeal to you, another option is to stay in a less expensiv e hotel during the week and mo ve into sw ell digs for the weekend finale. ACCESSIBILITY Most hotels ar e pr epared to accommodate not only trav elers with physical disabilities but also families traveling with childr en and the accompanying strollers and other equipment. You should, however, always inquire when you make r eservations to make sur e that the hotel can meet your particular needs. RESERVE IN AD VANCE Whatev er hotel or hotels y ou choose, r egardless of season, making reservations well in advance

4

FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY A CCO M M O D AT I O N S

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4

will help ensure that you get the best rate available. I’ ve pr ovided toll-fr ee phone numbers for all the hotels r eviewed in this chapter , but y ou might find better rates b y calling the hotel ’s r eservations office directly. Most hotels have check-in times somewhere between 3 and 6pm; if you ar e going to be delay ed, call ahead and r econfirm y our r eservation to pr event cancellation. RESERVATION SER VICES F or discounted r ooms at mor e than 30 do wntown hotels, tr y Hot R ooms (& 800/ 468-3500 or 773/468-7666; www .hot rooms.com). I’ve used this service and was very pleased to get a night in a top-rated downtown hotel for about half the r egular price—and that was during the height of the busy summer season. The service is free, but if y ou cancel a r eservation (and y ou must adhere to each individual hotel ’s cancellation policy), y ou’re assessed a fee. Another source of information on r eservations is the annual Illinois H otel-Motel Directory, which also pr ovides information about weekend packages. Call the Illinois Bureau of Tourism at & 800/2CONNECT (226-6632) for a copy. Chicago’s Conv ention and Tourism Bureau’s w ebsite, www.choosechicago. com, allows you to book hotels as w ell as complete weekend packages. BED & BREAKF AST RESER VATIONS

A centralized reservations service called At Home I nn Chicago, P .O. Bo x 14088, Chicago, IL 60614 ( & 800/375-7084 or 312/640-1050; www .athomeinnchicago. com), lists more than 70 accommodations in Chicago . I f y ou’re of an adv enturous bent, y ou’ll find options ranging fr om high-rise and loft apar tments to guest rooms car ved fr om a former priv ate club on the 40th floor of a Loop office building. Most lie within 3 miles of do wntown (many are located in the G old Coast, Old Town, and Lincoln Park) and will run you

$150 to $350 for apar tments, and as lo w as $100 for guest rooms in private homes. A gr oup of local B&B o wners has formed the Chicago Bed and B reakfast Association, with a w ebsite that links to various pr operties thr oughout the city: www.chicago-bed-breakfast.com. Note: Most B&Bs r equire a minimum stay of 2 or 3 nights; also, many hav e restrictions on children. Some accept children only o ver age 10, for example, and others will not accept kids of any age. I t’s always wise to ask if childr en are welcome when making reservations. LANDING THE BEST ROOM S omebody has to get the best room in the house; it might as w ell be y ou. You can star t b y joining the hotel ’s frequent-guest program, which may make you eligible for upgrades. A hotel-branded credit card usually gives its owner “silver” or “gold” status in fr equentguest pr ograms for fr ee. Always ask about corner r ooms. They’re often larger and quieter, with more windows and light, and they often cost the same as standard rooms. When you make your reservation, ask if the hotel is r enovating; if it is, r equest a r oom away fr om the constr uction. Ask about nonsmoking r ooms, r ooms with vie ws, rooms with twin, queen-, or king-size beds. If you’re a light sleeper, request a quiet room away fr om v ending machines, elev ators, restaurants, bars, and discos. Ask for a room that has been most r ecently r enovated or redecorated. If y ou ar en’t happy with y our r oom when y ou arriv e, ask for another one. Most lodgings will be willing to accommodate you. A NOTE ABOUT PRICES In this chapter I’ve divided hotels into four price categories: Very E xpensive means double-occupancy r ooms typically cost upwards of $400 per night; Expensive rooms, $200 and up to ar ound $350 or $400; Moderate, less than $200 a night; and Inexpensive, less than $150.

75

Major Convention Dates

EVENT

2009 DATES

International Home and Housewar es Show Kitchen/Bath Industry Show National Restaurant Association Show Neo-Con—World’s Trade Fair International Manufacturing Technology Show Graph Expo Radiological Society of North America

Mar 16–18

EXPECTED ATTENDANCE 60,000

Apr 11–13 May 17–20 June 9–11 Sept 8–13 Oct 26–29

60,000 75,000 40,000 90,000 40,000

Nov 30–Dec 5

60,000

vary accor ding to day of the w eek and seasonally. ( The lo wer rates tend to be offered Jan–Mar and on nonholiday weekends.)

1 T H E LO O P Strictly speaking, “downtown” in Chicago means the Loop—the central business district, a 6×8-block r ectangle env eloped b y elev ated tracks on all four sides. An outer cir cle beyond this literal loop of tracks is bounded on the north and west by the Chicago River and its south branch, forming an elbo w on two sides; on the east b y Michigan Avenue running along the edge of M illennium Park and G rant Park; and on the south b y the Congress Expressway. Within these confines ar e the city’s financial institutions, trading markets, and municipal government buildings, making for, as you might expect, quite a lot of hustle and bustle M onday through Friday. Come Saturday and Sunday, however, the Loop is pretty dead, despite the fact that it is also home to major music and theater venues and is near the Art Institute. On a nice day, it’s easy to walk south from the Loop to the M useum Campus, home to the F ield Museum of N atural History and J ohn G. Shedd Aquarium. For visitors who want a real “city” experience, the Loop offers dramatic urban vistas or skyscrapers and a feeling that y ou’re in the center of w eekday action. The Loop has an

4 T H E LO O P

The rates giv en in this chapter ar e per night and do not include tax es, which are quite steep at 14.9%, or any discounts. Prices are always subject to availability and

FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY A CCO M M O D AT I O N S

Listed belo w ar e Chicago ’s major (30,000 visit ors or mor e) c onventions f or 2009, with projected attendance figures. Many of them take plac e here annually, ar ound the same time each y ear. Plan ahead because hot el r ooms and restaurant r eservations can be har d t o c ome b y when the big sho ws ar e in town—and even if y ou snag a r oom, you’ll be pa ying t op pric e. Contact the Chicago C onvention and Tourism Bur eau (& 877/CHICAGO [244-2246]; www.choosechicago.com) to double-check the lat est info before you commit to your travel dates as c onvention schedules can change .

M Ambassador East 1 ARMITAGE Best Western River North Hotel 18 Conrad Chicago 22 Courtyard by Marriott Chicago Downtown/Magnificent Mile 17 Doubletree Chicago Magnificent Mile 24 The Drake 4 Embassy Suites Hotel Chicago – Downtown 14 Fairmont Hotel 33 Four Points by Sheraton – Chicago Downtown/Magnificent Mile 15 Four Seasons Hotel Chicago 5 Hampton Inn & Suites Chicago – Downtown 25 Hard Rock Hotel Chicago 32 Hilton Chicago 38 Hilton Garden Inn 19 Homewood Suites 20 Hotel Allegro 34 Hotel Burnham 35 Hotel Indigo 2 Hotel Monaco 31 Hotel Sax 29 InterContinental Chicago 23 The James Hotel 21 Millennium Knickerbocker Hotel 9 Park Hyatt Chicago 12 The Peninsula Chicago 13 Red Roof Inn Chicago Downtown 16 Renaissance Chicago Hotel 30 The Ritz-Carlton Chicago 11

W. Armitage Ave.

Orchard St.

N. Burling St.

N. Halsted St.

N. Fremont St.

N. Sheffield Ave.

N. Larrabee St.

rn ou yb l C N. N. Halsted St. e. Av

N. Dayton St.

Ho

e ok

rS Oak St.

N. Orleans St.

S sby Cro N.

t.

N. Franklin St. N. LaSalle St.

t.

N. Larrabee St.

h

14

M

CHICAGO

6

3

8

4

N. Michigan Ave.

M

N Subway/El stop

0.25 km

1/4 mi

9 E. Walton Pl. 10

E. Oak St. N. DeWitt Pl.

See also “Near North & River North Accommodations” map

Lake Michigan

0

0

12 13

Rush 15

16 17

41

E. Erie St. E. Ontario St.

E. Superior St. E. Huron St.

11 E. Chicago Ave.

P.F.C. Milton Lee Olive III Park

E. Delaware Pl. 7 John Hancock Center E. Chestnut St. Mies van der Rohe Way E. Pearson St.

5

Bellevue Pl.

E. Cedar St.

E. Elm St.

1

GOLD COAST

N.

W. Erie St. W. Ontario St.

W. Superior St. W. Huron St.

2

Ave.

Clark St.

W. M Chicago

CHICAGO

Locust St.

CLARK/DIVISION M

W.Goethe St.

Dearborn St.

Chicago Riv er

Cleveland Ave. N.

t. sh S

W. Chicago Ave.

N. N.

u N. R N. State St.

c

N. Mohawk St. N. Sedgwick St.

Pkwy.

N. Bra n

N. Hudson Ave. W. Schiller St.

N. Lake Shore Dr.

Seward Park

Park Ave.

W. Scott St.

r. 64

N. State

W. Division St.

N. Wells St.

OLD TOWN

lle D

North Blvd.

La Sa

PARK

LINCOLN

N. Astor St.

Stanton Park

M

SEDGWICK

St.

W. Blackhawk St.

W. North 64 Ave.

NORTH/CLYBOURN

N. Dayton St. N.

M

N. Howe St. W. Eugenie St.

W. Menomonee St.

41

FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY A CCO M M O D AT I O N S

lark N. C . e Av ln co iL n

W. Willow St.

4

W. Wisconsin St.

T H E LO O P

76

Central Chicago Accommodations

N.Fairbanks Ct. N. St. Clair St.

N. Wabash Ave.

N. Hudson Ave. N. Sedgwick St.

N. Halsted St.

St.

S.

W. Taylor St.

S. Des Plaines St. Rd.

E. 11th St.

E. 9th St.

S.

S. Wells St.

Halsted

W. Roosevelt Rd.

M

M

ROOSEVELT/WABASH

SOUTH LOOP

E. 8th St.

38

37

Dr.

M

41

Field Museum of Natural History

ROOSEVELT RD. STATION

PARK

E. Balbo

E. Harrison St.

GRANT

E. Jackson Dr.

Art Institute of Chicago

E. Monroe Dr.

S. Michigan Ave.

W. Roosevelt

94

90

W. Polk St.

M LIBRARY

M JACKSON

HARRISON M

E. Randolph Dr.

33

MILLENNIUM PARK MADISON M

ADAMS M

36

W. Congress Pkwy. E. Congress Pkwy.

LASALLE M

LASALLE M

S. LaSalle St. S. Sherman St.

94

i g a n M i c h

41

at Chicago

of Illinois

M CLINTON

MONROE M

W. Adams St. M Sears Tower QUINCY

M

M WASHINGTON

S. State St. S. Plymouth Ct.

Midway

90

Harrison St.

HALSTED/U OF I University

W. M

Eisenhower Expwy.

S. Wacker Dr. S. Federal St. S. Clark St.

55

e L a k

Columbus Dr.

U.S. Cellular Field

S. Morgan St. St.

290

S. Peoria St.

290

W. Van Buren St.

Union Station W. Jackson Blvd.

W. Monroe St.

THE LOOP

32

RANDOLPH

John G. Shedd Aquarium

Ha rbor

M on roe

E. Wacke r Dr.

River

E. North Water St.

27

S. Lake Shore Dr.

S. Jefferson St. S. Clinton St.

T H E LO O P

N. Morgan St. N. Carpenter St.

S. Green St.

THE LOOP

N. Green St. N. Peoria St. S. Dearborn

Map area

N. Halsted St.

C H I C A G O

St.

Wrigley Field

N. Des Plaines

90

St.

41

N. Clinton St.

94

N. Jefferson

W. Adams St.

N. Canal St.

W. Monroe St.

N. Wacker Dr.

GREEKTOWN

N. LaSalle St.

3 mi

N. Clark St.

3 km

N. Wells St. Ave.

0

N. Dearborn St.

0

N. Franklin St. St.

W. Madison St.

35

M

STATE 31

N. State

St.

M

30

N. Wabash

WASHINGTON

34

M

CLARK/LAKE

W. Wacker Dr.

Chicago

E. Ohio St. E. Grand Ave. 24 STREETER23 E. Illinois St. VILLE

Dr.

W. Lake St.

21 22

20

Field Blvd.

W. Madison

ury gsb 28 29

25 26 W. Hubbard St. NORTH W. Kinzie St. MERCH MART M

W. Ohio St. 19 W. Grand Ave. 18 GRAND M W. Illinois St. RIVER

bus

N. Stetson Ave.

in .K Colum Harbor Dr.

Wabash A Ave.

River anch Chicago S. Br

St.

FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY A CCO M M O D AT I O N S

N

Sheraton Chicago Hotel W. Grand Ave. N. & Towers 27 W. Hubbard Milw St. The Silversmith Hotel & Suites 36 W. Kinzie auk St. Sofitel Chicago Water Tower 6 ee Av Talbott Hotel 3 e. Travelodge Chicago Downtown 37 W. Fulton St. Tremont Hotel 7 CLINTON Trump International Hotel W. Lake St. 90 M & Tower 30 94 W. Randolph St. Westin Chicago Michigan Avenue 8 W. Washington St. Westin Chicago River North 28

77

S. Canal St.

4

78

interesting mix of grand hotels, such as the F airmont, and brash ne w upstar ts, most notably the hip triad run by the West Coast–based Kimpton Group: the Hotel Burnham, Hotel Monaco, and Hotel Allegro. Despite their differences, all offer undeniable conv enience for families who prefer to be at the center of the city .

VERY EXPENSIVE

FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY A CCO M M O D AT I O N S

Fairmont Hotel

T H E LO O P

4

The Fairmont is easily one of the city ’s most luxurious hotels, offering an array of deluxe amenities and services. This is the kind of place that regularly hosts high-level politicians and CEOs (but not rock stars). The overall effect is chic but a bit impersonal. The entrance looks out on anonymous office to wers, and you’re likely to wander the cir cular lobby a bit befor e finding the check-in desk. S till, families rav e about the huge r ooms and bend-o ver-backwards ser vice; although families ar en’t the hotel’s primary market, you will be made to feel mor e than welcome. The large rooms are decorated in a comfortable, upscale style. (Ask for one with a lake view, although even the city vie w rooms offer some distance fr om neighboring offices.) The posh bathrooms feature extra large tubs, separate v anity areas, and swivel TVs. The windows even open (a rarity in high-rise hotels), so you can enjoy the breeze drifting off Lake Michigan. Suites have one or two bedr ooms, a living r oom, a dining ar ea, and a built-in bar—and all come with lake vie ws. For $20 a day, guests can access Lakeshor e Athletic Club without walking outside. The club has a pool, but unfor tunately the club is open to children only after 2pm on Saturday and all day on Sunday. The hotel is connected to the city’s underground pedway system (one of my favorite activities to do with kids), through which you can walk all the way to M acy’s (formerly Marshall Field’s) on State Street on inclement days without stepping outside.

200 N. C olumbus Dr. (at Lake St.), Chicago , IL 60601. & 800/526-2008 or 312/565-8000. F ax 312/8561032. www.fairmont.com. 692 units. $129–$389 double; $229–$539 suite. Kids 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways $20/night; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $41 with in/out privileges. Subway/El: Red, Green, Orange, Brown, or Blue Line t o State/Lake. Small pets ac cepted for a $25 fee. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; ac cess t o nearb y health club; business c enter; salon; 24-hr . r oom service; babysitting; laundry service; 24-hr. dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, CD pla yer, fax, high-speed Internet access, minibar, hair dryer, iron.

EXPENSIVE

Hard Rock Hotel Chicago

The good news: This hotel is not located on top of the supertouristy Hard Rock Cafe, which is about a mile away in River North. In fact, the hotel is a relatively restrained rehab of one of the city’s historic skyscrapers, the 40-story Carbide and Carbon B uilding. As y ou might expect, the theme her e is music: P op tunes echo through the lobby, TV monitors show videos, and glass cases display pop-star memorabilia. If your kids ar e in the age range that considers w earing a H ard Rock T-shirt from exotic locales a badge of honor, they may well get a kick from a stay here. But for the grown-ups in your crowd, the mix of old and new can be somewhat jarring. The black-and-gray lobby feels like a nightclub , but the marble-and-gold-trimmed elev ator bank still says “high-rise office building.” Don’t expect too much rock-star attitude; to date, the Hard Rock appears to be populated by youngish business travelers and families. The guest rooms are neutral in decor with modern furnishings. The building’s larger-than-average windows let in plenty of natural light. The so-called Hard Rock Rooms on the corners of each floor ar e larger than the standard double r ooms and featur e chaise longues for str etching out. F amilies might inquire about the suites, located in the to wer at the top of the building, which come in various one- and two-bedroom configurations and allow an added layer of privacy (with only one or two suites per floor, you’re separated from the masses).

The hotel’s restaurant, China Bar & Grill, serves Asian fusion cuisine in a high-energy setting, and the lobby starts swinging after dark, when music gets going at the street-level bar, Base (open until 4am, it featur es live music and DJs most nights). And because the hotel actively courts rock bands who come thr ough town on tour, you never know who you’ll see stopping in for a drink.

Hotel Burnham

1 W. Washington (at State St.), Chicago, IL 60602. & 877/294-9712 or 312/782-1111. Fax 312/782-0899. www.burnhamhotel.com. 122 units. $179–$299 double; $229–$399 suite. Kids 17 and under stay free in parent’s r oom. No r ollaways; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet park ing $40 with in/out privileges . Subway: Red or Blue Line t o Washington/State. Pets allowed. Amenities: Restaurant; small fitness r oom (and access to nearby health club); concierge; business services; 24-hr. room service; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, fax, dataport, free high-speed Internet access, minibar, hair dryer, iron.

Hotel Monaco This 14-story hotel deftly manages to straddle the line betw een fun and conser vative. The stylish decor has a funky feel that adds to the hotel ’s playful

4 T H E LO O P

Here’s my pick for Chicago’s most distinctive hotel, one that took a historic location and jazz ed it up with a dash of color ful modern style. This hip hotel uses its sense of whimsy to embrace, not exclude, families. Don’t come to the Burnham if you’re looking for extensive amenities—the lobby is tiny, as is the ex ercise room, and there’s no pool. B ut it’s my top choice for families in this price categor y, provided you book a suite, which will offer y our family plenty of space. The result of a brilliant restoration of the historic Reliance Building—one of the first skyscrapers ever built and a highly significant ar chitectural treasure—this intimate boutique hotel (named for D aniel Burnham, whose firm designed the R eliance Building in 1895) is the wor k of the Kimpton G roup, the tr endsetting West Coast–based chain behind the Allegro and Monaco hotels (both r eviewed later in this section). I t occupies a prime spot in the hear t of State Street, across from Macy’s (formerly Marshall Field’s) and 1 block south of the hopping N orth Loop theater district. The Burnham is a must for architecture buffs: Wherever possible, the restoration retains period elements—most obviously in the hallways, which r ecall the original office corridors with terrazz o tile floors, white marble wainscoting, mahogany door and windo w frames, and r oom numbers painted on the translucent glass doors. Rooms ar e clubb y but glamor ous, with plush beds, mahogany writing desks, and chaise longues. The hotel’s 19 suites featur e a separate living r oom area and CD ster eo systems. To keep w ee ones enter tained, ask the hotel for coloring books and cray ons, games, and S uper Nintendo. During holidays y ou’ll find special activities in the hotel lobby, including decorating gingerbread men around Christmas and hunting for eggs at Easter. D iaper bags, cribs, high chairs, changing tables, and mor e ar e av ailable upon request. And ther e’s a turndo wn ser vice with cookies and milk. The hotel’s restaurant offers a children’s menu. Ask the concierge for special offers for tea at American Girl Place Cafe and deals at the museums and theaters. And don ’t leav e Fido at home: P ets ar e positively welcomed here. The hotel provides pet beds, treats, food and water bowls, and dog-walking services (and they’ll even clean out your in-room kitty litter box!).

FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY A CCO M M O D AT I O N S

230 N. M ichigan Ave. (at Lake St.), Chicago , IL 60601. & 866/966-5166 or 312/345-1000. F ax 312/3451012. www.hardrockhotelchicago.com. 381 units. $169–$349 double; fr om $1,500 suite. Weekend rates available. Kids 11 and under stay free in parent’s room. No rollaways; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $39 with in/out privileges . Sub way/El: Red or Blue Line t o Lake . Amenities: Restaurant; bar ; exercise room; concierge; business services; 24-hr. room service; same-day laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/DVD pla yer and video games , CD pla yer, free high-speed I nternet access, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

79

FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY A CCO M M O D AT I O N S

80

T H E LO O P

4

spirit, which may be why it attracts a y ounger clientele, with an overall vibe that is laidback and friendly rather than so-hip-it-hur ts. (This is Chicago, after all, not N ew York.) The plush, je wel-toned 1930s F rench D eco decor at the Kimpton G roup’s most upscale Chicago pr operty infuses sizable r ooms resembling theatrical set pieces; eclectic furnishings include deep-red headboards and green-striped walls, while the lobby—with its gold decorative accents and zebra-striped chairs—looks like a 1930s-era salon. F amilies will enjoy the suites, some of which adjoin r ooms with two double beds. R ooms on the top thr ee floors giv e you a vista of the Chicago Riv er and surr ounding skyscrapers. (If you’re taller than average, you can request a Tall Room, with longer beds.) All r ooms include “meditation stations”—comfy seats tucked into the larger-than-average windows, which are perfect for taking in the cityscape outside (ask for a river view). The cozy lobby is the spot for fr ee morning coffee and an ev ening wine r eception. You’ll find the concierge happy to help with a list of kid-friendly attractions. And feel fr ee to bring the family pet along—the hotel has welcomed every creature from parrots to poodles. Make sure to tell them about y our pet when y ou make a r eservation, as pet food and dogwalking services are available, too. (The Hotels Burnham and Allegro, sister hotels to the Monaco, offer similar services for traveling pets.) 225 N. Wabash Ave. (at Wacker Dr.), Chicago, IL 60601. & 800/397-7661 or 312/960-8500. F ax 312/9601883. www.monaco-chicago.com. 192 units. $169–$329 double; $279–$429 suit e. Kids 17 and under sta y free in parent’s room. Rollaways and cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $38 with in/out privileges. Subway/El: Brown, Green, or Orange Line to Randolph/Washington or Red Line to State/Lake. Pets allowed. Amenities: Restaurant (American); small fitness r oom (and access to nearby health club); c oncierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; in-room massage; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, fax, high-speed Internet access, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

Renaissance Chicago Hotel The Renaissance is the most understated upscale hotel in the city, located at the top of S tate Street, just across the bridge fr om the Magnificent Mile and steps fr om the Loop’s attractions. Although business trav elers are the Renaissance’s bread and butter, I was happy to disco ver that the hotel made a big effor t to accommodate families trav eling with children. One huge plus: A pool on the four th floor is open fr om 6:30am to 10pm, with no r estrictions on childr en’s use. The hotel’s restaurants offer kids ’ menus for br eakfast, lunch, and dinner , serving everything from French toast to ravioli. PlayStation games on the television can keep kids enter tained. The hotel embraces its location with bay windows offering stunning views of the river and the towers of North Michigan Avenue. Standard double rooms include a small sitting area with an armchair and desk; families might pr efer the delux e doubles, which have much bigger bathr ooms (some with separate sho wers and bathtubs) and two couches. Club-level rooms, located on the top four floors, are half a room larger and have their own concierge in a private lounge, where complimentary continental breakfast and evening hors d’oeuvres are served. Families often request connecting rooms, one of which has a king-siz e bed; the other , two queen-siz e beds. R equest a riv er vie w for the best cityscape (corner suites also hav e excellent vie ws of both the Chicago Riv er and Lake Michigan). 1 W. Wacker Dr. (at State St.), Chicago, IL 60601. & 800/HOTELS-1 (468-3571) or 312/372-7200. Fax 312/ 372-0093. www.marriott.com. 553 units . $199–$399 double; $249–$389 club -level double; suit es from $500. Weekend rat es a vailable. K ids 11 and under sta y fr ee in par ent’s r oom. Rolla ways fr ee in Club Lounge rooms only; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $40 with in/out privileges . Subway/El: Brown Line to State/Lake, or Red Line to Washington/State. Small pets accepted. Amenities: Restaurant (American); lounge; indoor pool w/sk ylights; health club w/sauna and st eam r oom; c oncierge; FedEx Office locat ed in lobb y; 24-hr. r oom ser vice; bab ysitting; same -day laundr y ser vice and dr y cleaning;

club-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies and PlayStation, CD player, high-speed Internet access, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

10 S. Wabash Ave. (at Madison St.), Chicago, IL 60603. & 312/372-7696. Fax 312/372-7320. www.silversmith chicagohotel.com. 143 units . $179–$359 double; fr om $289 suit e. Weekend rat es a vailable. Rolla ways $25/night; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet park ing $30 with in/out privileges . Subway/El: Brown, Green, or Orange Line t o M adison/Wabash, or Red Line t o Washington/State. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; tiny fitness r oom (w/access to nearby health club f or $10/day); concierge; business c enter and secretarial services; limited room service; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning; club-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

This sleek, modern hotel is all business and may ther efore feel a bit icy to some families, but you won’t believe the fantastic deals available when the business travelers clear out for the w eekend and the atmosphere lightens up. The hotel’s triangular design gives every room a panoramic vista of Lake Michigan, Grant Park, and/ or the Chicago Riv er. Spacious rooms let families spr ead out with separate sitting ar eas and warm contemporar y furnishings. While business trav elers appr eciate the o versize desks, families dining in appreciate that the desk converts into a dining room table. Some rooms come equipped with CD play ers and high-speed and Wi-Fi I nternet access. Families might request an executive suite, with wonderful 180-degree views, and separate sleeping areas. Active parents will want to break a sweat in the lofty environs of the Penthouse Health Club and Spa, perched on the 42nd floor. And if you decide to splurge on a parents-only dinner out, make sur e to book a table at the ultimate steak-and-lobster r estaurant, the on-site outpost of New York’s The Palm.

323 E. Wacker Dr., Chicago, IL 60601. & 888/737-9477 or 312/565-0565. Fax 312/565-0540. www.swissotel chicago.com. 632 units . $159–$409 double; $395–$2,500 suit e. Rollaways $50/night; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $45 with in/out privileges . Subway/El: Red, Brown, Orange, or Gr een Line t o Randolph. Amenities: 2 restaurants (steakhouse, American); lounge; penthouse fitness center w/indoor pool, spa, Jacuzzi, and sauna; c oncierge; business center w/extensive meeting services; 24-hr. room service; massage; bab ysitting; laundry service; 24-hr. dry cleaning; ex ecutive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

4 T H E LO O P

Swissôtel Chicago

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Finds The Silversmith Hotel & Suites You might call the Silversmith a hidden gem. The landmark building, designed b y the celebrated firm of D. H. B urnham and Company, was built in 1897 to serve the jewelry and silver trade on Wabash Avenue, still known as Jeweler’s Row. You’ll be only a block south of Macy’s (formerly Marshall Field’s) on S tate S treet. While the hotel isn ’t a traditional family hotel, it does pr ovide cribs, babysitting service, and toys and games. Word about the S ilversmith has been slo w getting out (even many Loop office workers who pass by it every day don’t know it’s there), so it doesn’t book up as quickly as other hotter spots. That’s good ne ws for families on vacation because it means that the hotel is mor e willing to make a deal on r oom rates. (The suites—perfect for families—often get discounted, I hear.) There is also more likely to be room at this inn during the busy conv ention season. Rooms come in v arying configurations, with 12-foot-high ceilings, 10-foot pictur e windows, handsome Frank Lloyd Wright–inspired wrought-iron fixtures, armoires, and homey bedding; bathrooms are generously sized. Because buildings surround this urban hotel, most rooms along the hotel’s main corridor tend to be dark (with windows looking into neighboring office buildings). F or a better—and quintessentially Chicago—vie w, get a room at the front on the fifth floor or higher, overlooking Wabash Avenue and the El tracks. In the evening stop by the lobby for a wine-and-cheese reception and complimentary desserts (including Eli’s cheesecake, one of the city’s signature sweet treats).

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Hotel Allegro

S O U T H LO O P

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Value For families in search of a fun, light-hearted vibe, the Kimpton Group’s splashy Allegr o is a good v alue. Although its published rates ar e similar to those of its sister properties, the Hotel Monaco and Hotel Burnham (both listed above), the Allegro is far larger and ther efore more likely to offer special rates to fill space, especially on w eekends and in the winter . Guests enter a lobb y with plush, boldly color ed furnishings. That whimsical first impr ession segues into the cheer y, pink-walled guest rooms. Most rooms are small (without much space beyond the bed, an armoire, and one chair), but manage to feel cozy rather than cramped; the compact bathr ooms, annoyingly, have only pedestal sinks—meaning minimal counter space for kids ’ toothbrushes and mom’s makeup. Suites have separate bathrooms and foldout couches that come with robes and two-person Jacuzzi tubs. For a family of three or more, the hotel recommends a king suite with a J acuzzi tub; the r oom includes a living r oom and separate bedr oom with a king-size bed. As befits a place where the doorman hums along to the tunes playing on speakers out front, the Allegr o appeals to y ounger trav elers. The hotel ’s r estaurant, 312 Chicago, attracts nonguests in sear ch of ex cellent Italian cuisine. There’s no kids ’ menu, but the restaurant is accommodating to families. Like the other Kimpton G roup hotels in Chicago, Hotel Allegro welcomes pets. If your family is in town to catch some theater, make sure to ask about the Allegr o’s access to exclusive seats for high-profile downtown shows and its special theater packages.

171 W. Randolph St. (at LaSalle St.), Chicago, IL 60601. & 800/643-1500 or 312/236-0123. Fax 312/2360917. www.allegrochicago.com. 483 units. $149–$299 double; $225–$399 suit e. Kids 17 and under sta y free in par ent’s room. Rollaways free depending on r oom; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $30 with in/out privileges . Sub way/El: All lines t o Washington. P ets allo wed. Amenities: Restaurant (northern Italian); lounge; exercise room (and access to nearby health club w/indoor pool f or $10/day); concierge; business ser vices; salon; limit ed r oom ser vice; same -day laundr y ser vice; dr y cleaning . In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, free high-speed Internet access, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

2 S O U T H LO O P Unlike the ar ea surr ounding N orth M ichigan A venue—the “M ag M ile”—the S outh Loop is less about glamour and mor e about old Chicago . Running the length of G rant Park, S outh M ichigan Avenue is ideal for a long city str oll, passing grand museums, imposing architecture, and the park’s greenery and statuary. But although this stretch was once Chicago’s most regal hotel row, it’s certainly the worse for wear today. Over the past decade, however, the surr ounding neighborhood has been r evitalized, with the conv ersion of industrial buildings into loft apar tments. O ld-timers might complain about gentrification, but it’s good news for visitors, who now find more restaurant options and livelier street life. For families, the proximity to Millennium Park, Grant Park, and State Street shopping makes the ar ea attractive, particularly when summer music festiv als or holiday shopping is on the agenda.

VERY EXPENSIVE

Hilton Chicago

When it erupted onto Michigan Avenue in 1927, this massive brick-and-stone edifice billed itself as the largest hotel in the world. It certainly owns one

720 S. Michigan Ave. (at Balbo Dr.), Chicago, IL 60605. & 800/HILTONS [445-8667] or 312/922-4400. Fax 312/922-5240. www.hilton.com. 1,544 units. $129–$399 double; from $179 suite. Kids 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways $40/stay; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $45; self-parking $41. Subway/El: Red Line t o Harrison/State. Amenities: 4 r estaurants (cafe, American, st eakhouse, Irish pub w/live music); 2 lounges; indoor pool; health club w/indoor track , hot tubs, sauna, and steam room; concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; laundry service; 24-hr. dry cleaning. In r oom: A/C, TV w/pa y mo vies, high-speed and Wi-Fi I nternet ac cess, minibar, c offeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

INEXPENSIVE

Travelodge Chicago Downtown Value

65 E. Harrison St. (at S. Wabash Ave.), Chicago, IL 60605. & 888/515-6375 or 312/427-8000. Fax 312/4278261. www.travelodge.com. 250 units. $105–$165 double. Kids 17 and under sta y free in parent’s room. Rollaways $10/night; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Indoor garage parking $15 car or small van, includes 1 in/out per day at no charge. Subway/El: Red Line to State/Harrison. Amenities: 2 restaurants. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, fax, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

4 S O U T H LO O P

You won’t be reveling in luxury, but Travelodge promises and delivers neat, clean rooms at reasonable prices. The hotel’s location near the Loop and M useum Campus is ex cellent: You are half a block fr om Grant Park and all the summer festiv als, and only 4 blocks fr om the Field Museum. This 12-story hotel is one of fe w budget lodgings y ou’ll find in the hear t of the Loop . The hotel was built in 1925 as the H arrison Hotel, and for many y ears was one of the pr emier hotels in the city. Ever since Travelodge acquired the property, they’ve been promoting it as “a touch of old Chicago” and working to restore the property. To date, all guest rooms and the lobby have been renovated. Families should request one of the “S leepy Bear Den” rooms, which offer priv acy for parents and for kids—but not too much priv acy. The room is separated into two ar eas with an archway: On one side is a king-size bed for the parents, and on the other side is a double bed for the kids, specially decorated with whimsical curtains and bedding. Each side has its own television and VCR; the kids’ side is stocked with children’s movies. Also included are a micr owave and r efrigerator. Other rooms suitable for families offer two beds and two bathrooms. There’s no pool, but two in-hotel r estaurants cater to families: Chicago Carr y-Out offers full br eakfasts and sandwiches, and Charming Wok ser ves inexpensive Chinese fare from 11am to 11pm.

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of the most color ful histories of any Chicago hotel. G uests have included Queen Elizabeth, E mperor H irohito, and ev ery pr esident since FDR. The classical-r ococo public spaces—including the Versailles-inspired Grand Ballroom and G rand Stair Lobby—are magnificent, but the r est of the hotel is firmly entr enched in the pr esent. The hotel is a solid choice for families: Children 17 and under stay fr ee in their parent’s room. There’s plenty of space to wander , and it ’s close to all of the major museums and G rant Park (great for when the kids need to burn off some energy). E ven better, ther e’s a heated swimming pool and a fitness center with a whirlpool and sauna, all open to kids. Some rooms are on the small side, but all are comfortable and warm; and many of the standard rooms have two bathrooms—great for families. Adjoining rooms are available; ask when y ou call for r eservations. The vie ws fr om those higher up facing M ichigan Avenue offer a sw eeping view of G rant Park and the lake. The hotel’s Executive Level rooms offer a separate r egistration ar ea, upgraded amenities (including r obes), and a lounge serving complimentary continental br eakfast and ev ening hors d ’oeuvres (you’ll pay about $75 above the standard rate for these rooms).

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3 NEAR NORTH & THE MAGNIFICENT MILE Along the Magnificent Mile—a stretch of Michigan Avenue running north of the Chicago River to O ak Street—you’ll find most of the city ’s premium hotels. The location can’t be beat.

VERY EXPENSIVE

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Conrad Chicago

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Tucked into the back of Westfield N orth B ridge mall, the Conrad Chicago maintains a low profile. I’d recommend it for families seeking a luxurious option in the winter time, thanks to the conv enience of having a whole mall just a few steps away . You can get out without ev en bundling the kids up—an attractiv e proposition when it’s icy outside. A quick elev ator ride connects you with stores such as Nordstrom or the Lego Store or Chicago’s Magnificent Meal food court, where you can grab anything from a Fluky’s hot dog to Italian fare at Tuscany Cafe. This pr operty—part of the H ilton hotel gr oup’s ne w upscale “boutique ” brand—is determined to compete with the city ’s mor e established luxur y pr operties (with r oom rates to match). The overall vibe her e is old-money classiness rather than ne w-money flashiness, from the lobby filled with dark wood furniture to the deep brown curtains in the tranquil guest rooms. Rooms here are a bit small (especially the least expensiv e ones on the north side), but the amenities are top-of-the-line: flatscreen TVs and Bose sound systems. High rollers will want to book one of the suites o verlooking Michigan Avenue; a few even come with priv ate terraces, something fe w hotels in this city can offer . The Conrad can’t quite compete with the Park Hyatt or the Peninsula in the glamour department, but its cozy style should appeal to trav elers looking for something a little mor e personal. 521 N. Rush St. (at Grand St.), Chicago , IL 60611. & 800/HILTONS [445-8667] or 312/645-1500. F ax 312/645-1550. http://conradhotels1.hilton.com. 311 units . $325–$530 double; fr om $500 suit e. Kids 11 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways and cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $41 with in/out privileges. Subway/El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Pets accepted. Amenities: Restaurant (European bistro); bar; health club; c oncierge; business c enter; 24-hr. room service; in-room massage; bab ysitting; laundry service; same-day dry cleaning. In room: A/C, flatscreen TV w/pay movies and video games , CD player w/Bose sound sy stem, high-speed I nternet access, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dr yer, iron, safe, turndown service.

Four S easons Hotel Chicago A fabulous pool and indulgences for kids make this hotel a thumbs up for families in sear ch of luxur y. Consistently voted one of the top hotels in the world b y frequent travelers, the F our Seasons occupies a rar efied aerie between the 30th and 46th floors abo ve the Mag Mile’s most upscale vertical mall. The hotel has every conceivable luxury amenity, and in 2007 it underwent a $30-million renovation that changed its look from that of an English country manor to that of a sleek and modern getaway . The elegant r ooms featur e contemporar y furnishings, subdued colors, and modern ar tworks, and each has windo ws that open to let in the fr esh air. Bathrooms boast a lighted makeup mirr or, o versize to wels and r obes, scales, and L’Occitane toiletries. Kid-friendly services include child-siz e robes, tub amenities, boar d and video games, and a special r oom-service menu. The hotel has offer ed family packages, especially on weekends, which might include small gifts and discounts fr om kids’ retailers. With the package, in the past, childr en 11 and under hav e been able to eat fr ee fr om the kids ’ room-service menu—and receive a complimentary gift from the ice-cream man. Yes, it’s

Near North & River North Accommodations

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E. Oak St.

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E. Ontario St.

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W. Hubbard St.

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Best Western River North Hotel 17 Conrad Chicago 21 Courtyard by Marriott Chicago Downtown 24 Courtyard by Marriott Chicago Downtown/ Magnificent Mile 15 Doubletree Chicago Magnificent Mile 16 The Drake 1 Embassy Suites Hotel Chicago-Downtown 12

Pl. N. DeWitt

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E. Grand Ave. 20 21 Westfield North Bridge

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Wrigley Building

W. Kinzie St.

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N. State St.

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N. Michigan Ave.

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N. Wabash Ave.

E. Ohio St.

St.

W. Illinois St.

N. Clark St.

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C Four Points by Sheraton – Chicago Downtown/ Magnificent Mile 13 Four Seasons Hotel Chicago 4 Hampton Inn & Suites Chicago-Downtown 23 Hilton Garden Inn 18 Hilton Suites 5 Homewood Suites 19 Hotel Sax 26 InterContinental Chicago 22 The James Chicago 20 Millennium Knickerbocker Hotel 2

St.

E. North Water St. 27

Park Hyatt Chicago 10 The Peninsula Chicago 11 Red Roof Inn Chicago Downtown 14 The Ritz-Carlton Chicago 9 Sheraton Chicago Hotel & Towers 27 Sofitel Chicago Water Tower 8 Talbott Hotel 3 Tremont Hotel 6 Westin Chicago Michigan Avenue 7 Westin Chicago River North 25

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W. Grand Ave.

N. Dearborn St.

W. Ohio

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E. Erie St.

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E. Pearson St.

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N. Michigan Ave.

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Chicago Place

E. Delaware Pl.

Museum of Contemporary Art

MAGNIFICENT MILE

N. State St.

N. Wabash Ave.

Old Water Tower

E. Superior St.

W. Superior St.

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Water Tower Place 9

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CHICAGO W. Chicago Ave. M

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E. Chestnut

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N. Dearborn St.

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W. Waltonstop St. Subway/El

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W. Oak St. N

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true—as a special treat for wee ones, the hotel has an ice-cr eam man who will visit y our room and let kids choose an ice cr eam and toppings, including O reo pieces, gummy bears, M&Ms, sprinkles, freshly whipped cream, and chocolate sauce and caramel sauce. Most indulgent of all, however, are the twin beds—so soft that the hotel ’s gift shop sells about a hundred of them each year for $1,200 apiece. An 18-foot-high white marble fountain mar ks the entrance to the opulent S easons Restaurant (the hotel ’s other r estaurant, the Café, offers kids ’ menus). I’ d recommend that families make reservations for the Sunday brunch at Seasons, which takes place from 10:30am to 1:30pm. Childr en are welcome to join the fun in their o wn section of the restaurant, where a Harry Potter castle houses arts and crafts. The activities are supervised by a babysitter, and you can enjoy the best brunch in Chicago while your kids are within view. Kids can join y ou to eat, then r un off to enjo y their own experience in the castle. Bon appétit! 120 E. Delaware Place (at Michigan Ave.), Chicago, IL 60611. & 800/332-3442 or 312/280-8800. Fax 312/ 280-1748. www.fourseasons.com. 343 units. $495–$695 double; $735–$3,700 suite. Weekend rates from $385. Kids 17 and under sta y free in par ent’s room. Rollaways and cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $36 with in/out privileges; self-parking $30. Subway/El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Pets accepted. Amenities: 2 restaurants (New American, cafe); lounge; indoor pool (unrestricted access for kids); fitness center and spa; c oncierge; business c enter; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry service; 24-hr. dry cleaning. In r oom: A/C, TV/DVD w/pa y mo vies and video games , CD pla yer, fr ee high-speed I nternet access, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

Park Hy att Chicago

For those in sear ch of chic modern luxur y, the P ark Hyatt is the coolest hotel in town (as long as money is no object).The hotel occupies one of the most desirable spots on North Michigan Avenue, overlooking Water Tower Square, and the best r ooms are those that face east, o verlooking the bustle of M ichigan Avenue and the lake in the distance. Luxury might be the watchwor d here, but the look is anything but stuffy: The lobby feels like a sleek modern art gallery. German painter Gerhard Richter’s Piazza del Duomo Milan masterpiece is the visual centerpiece of the space, pr oviding ample evidence of what visual tr eats lie in stor e for guests. R ooms feature Eames and M ies van der R ohe reproduction furniture and window banquettes with stunning city views. (Another plus: The windows actually open.) The bathrooms are especially wonderful: You can pull back a sliding cherrywood wall and enjoy a view of the city while y ou soak in the oversize tub. Families often book connecting r ooms, one with a king-siz e bed and one with two double beds. Every room has CD and D VD players with a flatscr een TV, and the concierge will loan from the hotel’s library of DVDs (including kids’ movies) at no cost. The health club is open only to those over 16, but the pool welcomes kids—and it’s a stunner, with city vie ws looking south and br onze-colored tiles. I f you plan to spend significant time at American Girl Place, ask about the hotel’s special package, which includes breakfast for two at the hotel, outfits for the doll, and a special turndo wn service—for your child’s doll, too, of course. The hotel offers pr ograms for children up to age 14, and in the past, that has included a backpack with a camera, maps, and coupons to r edeem at the hotel, including a coupon for a tour of the behind-the-scenes wor kings of the hotel, which includes the kitchen (kids get a cookie and chef ’s hat), housekeeping, and more. The crown jewel of the Park Hyatt is NoMI, a restaurant nestled on the seventh floor. Serving F rench-inspired cuisine and featuring an Architectural Digest –worthy interior, with an adjoining outdoor terrace, N oMI (an acr onym for North Michigan) continues to r eceive stellar r eviews. I n the summer , y ou can sample appetiz ers and sip cocktails

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Making the Most of the Concierge

House C ars: Upper- end hot els of ten ha ve house cars a vailable t o dr op off guests in the L oop or elsewher e within 5 miles of the hot el. Businesspeople use the ser vice most, but an y guest can enjo y this perk . I f y ou want t o take the kids to watch the White Sox play at U .S. Cellular Field, or y ou need a ride to a r estaurant, request a house car thr ough the c oncierge desk. There’s usually no char ge, but y ou may tip the driv er at y our discretion. Restaurants: Every concierge will make dinner r eservations for guests, and I recommend ha ving the c oncierge phone ahead no matt er wher e y ou ar e dining. If a restaurant is booked, the concierge may have more pull squeezing you in than y ou would on y our own. But don ’t ask the c oncierge for any old restaurant recommendation. (I’ve been to some unremarkable, touristy places that wa y.) I t’s mor e eff ective t o name t wo or thr ee options and ha ve the concierge t ell you more about each one .

Solutions: Did a child get sick? Head right t o the c oncierge, who will make it a personal mission t o ensur e y our k id is seen b y a doc tor as soon as possible. C oncierges will also oblige less ur gent r equests, like r eserving doggy day care or finding a last-minut e gift. You don’t even have to be checked int o the hot el. You can fax and e -mail the c oncierge with y our arrival dat e and particular request. If he or she does go bey ond the call of dut y, gratuities are always appreciated—although never expec ted.

while checking out the skyline from an outdoor terrace. Parents will want to book a sitter for an evening out here—it’s far too chic to be kid-friendly. 800 N. M ichigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60611. & 800/233-1234 or 312/335-1234. F ax 312/239-4000. w ww. parkchicago.hyatt.com. 198 units. $385–$525 double; $695–$3,000 suit e. Kids 18 and under sta y free in parent’s r oom. No r ollaways; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet park ing $42 with in/out privileges . Subway/El: Red Line t o Chicago/State. Amenities: Restaurant (F rench/American); lounge; indoor pool; health club w/Jacuzzi and spa; c oncierge; business c enter w/computer technical suppor t; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; laundry service; 24-hr. dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/DVD player and pay movies, CD pla yer, fr ee high-speed I nternet ac cess, minibar , c offeemaker, hair dr yer, ir on, saf e, iP od connectivity.

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Other S ervices: You needn ’t limit r equests t o r estaurant r eservations. C oncierges can also book cruises on Lake M ichigan, car r entals, or ev en spa treatments—whatever requires a phone call . They can buy tickets t o a spor ting or ent ertainment venue or amend airline r eservations.

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Nearly all upscale hot els ha ve c oncierges, and man y smaller inns off er c oncierge ser vices from the fr ont desk. Too often, these people go underutiliz ed by guests who don ’t k now the full range of ser vices concierges can pr ovide. Beyond mer ely g iving dir ections t o Na vy P ier, c oncierges ar e ther e t o ac t as guests’ problem solvers. The best ones take r eal pleasure in helping , and the more challeng ing the r equest, the bett er. When y ou’re on vacation, wh y not truly r elax, and let the c oncierge be y our personal assistant during y our stay?

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The Peninsula Chicago

Taking design cues from the chain’s flagship Hong Kong hotel, the Peninsula Chicago mixes an Ar t Deco sensibility with modern, top-ofthe-line amenities. Service is practically a religion here. Rooms are average in size (except for the rather small “junior suites, ” which hav e living r ooms that can comfor tably seat only about four people). R ooms that ar e popular with families include suites with two double beds, or adjoining r ooms that combine one r oom with a king-siz e bed and one with two double beds. The hotel’s in-room technology is cutting edge: A small “ command station” by every bed allo ws guests to contr ol all the lights, TV, and r oom temperature without getting out fr om under the co vers. The marble-filled bathr ooms have separate shower stalls and tubs, spacious vanities, and another “command station” by the bathtub. A dd in the flatscr een TVs, and y ou’ve got a classic hotel that ’s v ery much attuned to the present. Kids’ amenities include a treat upon arrival: milk and cookies (or popcorn and soda if they prefer). Rooms can be equipped with video games, D VDs, and a librar y of kids ’ movies—make sure to r equest them when y ou make y our reservation. The bright, air y spa and fitness center fill the top two floors—check out the view from the outdoor deck. The spa has an Olympic-size pool, and one lane is always r eserved for family swim. The 20th-floor health club is also open to children, with no restrictions. You can obtain childcare services through the concierge. The sultry hotel bar—hidden from the lobby behind curved, leather-covered walls—is a top spot for a romantic evening with your mate. The Lobby is the best in-hotel restaurant bet for families, with a kids’ menu. Don’t miss breakfast at Pierre Gourmet, located just outside the hotel at the corner of S uperior and R ush streets, for some of the best baked goods on the M agnificent Mile. The hotel’s other restaurants, including the Avenue and Shanghai Terrace, do offer childr en’s menus, but I’d recommend that the meal be an adults-only affair.

108 E. Superior St. (at M ichigan Ave.), Chicago, IL 60611. & 866/288-8889 or 312/337-2888. F ax 312/ 751-2888. http://chicago.peninsula.com. 339 units . $525–$650 double; $795–$7,500 suit e. Kids 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways and cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $45 with in/ out privileges. Subway/El: Red Line t o Chicago/State. Pets accepted. Amenities: 4 restaurants (contemporary, Asian, eclectic, and European bakery); bar; indoor pool w/out door deck; fitness c enter; spa; hot tub; sauna; c oncierge; business c enter; 24-hr. room service; in-room massage; bab ysitting; laundry service; same -day dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV/DVD w/pay movies, fax, fr ee Wi-Fi, minibar, fridge (upon request), coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

The Ritz-Carlton Chicago Perched high atop Water Tower Place, the RitzCarlton casts a soothing presence on guests as they’re deposited into the airy 12th-floor lobby. Not surprisingly, the quality of the accommodations is of the highest caliber , although the standard rooms aren’t very large. Doubles have space for a lo ve seat and desk but not much more; the bathrooms are elegant but not huge. Suites are especially suited to families, with an additional living area furnished with a sofa and chair, a writing desk, a second TV, and a stereo. Lake views cost more but are spectacular (although in all the r ooms, you’re up high enough that y ou’re not staring into surr ounding condominium buildings). Families will find this luxury crash pad quite welcoming: Every child receives a gift and can borrow toys and games from a stash kept by the concierge. PlayStation and Nintendo are also available, and kids’ food can be deliv ered by room service 24 hours a day. Guests staying in suites are treated to a gratis wardrobe pressing upon arrival, personalized stationery, and fresh flowers. Service is the Ritz-Carlton’s selling point, whether it’s the “ compcierge” who helps guests with computer pr oblems or the allergy-sensitiv e

rooms that are cleaned with special nonirritating pr oducts and come stocked with nonfeather duvets and pillows, plus hypoallergenic bath products on request. Whether or not y ou stay here, the Ritz-Carlton is an elegant place for afternoon tea, served at 2:30 and 4:30pm in the lobb y. At one end of the lobb y is the Greenhouse restaurant, designed with a glass roof and wall that seems to jut out over the city. The hotel’s excellent Sunday brunch includes a special buffet for childr en replete with M&Ms, mac and cheese, chicken nuggets, and peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwiches.

20 E. Chestnut St. (at Wabash St.), Chicago, IL 60611. & 800/SOFITEL (763-4835) or 312/324-4000. F ax 312/324-4026. www.sofitel.com. 415 units. $240–$555 double; $370–$685 suit e. Kids 17 and under sta y free in parent’s room. No rollaways; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $40. Subway/El: Red Line to Chicago/Stat e. Small pets ac cepted. Amenities: Restaurant (F rench caf e); bar ; fitness c enter; c oncierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry service; same-day dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, high-speed Internet access, minibar, hair dryer, iron, safe.

EXPENSIVE

The Drake Hotel

If ever the term “grande dame” fit a hotel, it fitsThe Drake. Fronting East Lake Shore Drive with a prominent rooftop marquee that has a signatur e on the city’s skyline, the landmark building opened in 1920 and soon became one of the city’s finest hotels. Longtime Chicagoans still think of The Drake with possessive pride; it’s our version of New York’s Plaza or Paris’s Ritz. For all its old-time glamour, the hotel seems a bit dated when compar ed to gleaming newer upscale hotels such as the P ark Hyatt or the P eninsula (both r eviewed earlier in this chapter), but this, of course, is par t of The D rake’s charm. The D rake w elcomes

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Sofitel Chicago Water Tower Whether or not you stay here, you’ll quickly spot the Sofitel, thanks to its striking white stone-and-glass facade and geometric shape: A narrow prism tower rising from a square base. Located 1 block west of the Magnificent Mile, the S ofitel doesn’t cater specifically to families, but ser vice is so accommodating that you and your kids will be made to feel right at home. The place has a whimsical air that will appeal to kids: L uminescent floor tiles in the lobb y change color in a nev erending light sho w. The overall feel of the hotel is E uropean modern; most emplo yees seem to hail fr om exotic French-speaking locales such as M orocco, giving the hotel an international flair that y ou won’t find in most of Chicago ’s hotels. F oreign-language magazines are scattered on tables thr oughout the lobb y. The hotel’s bright, stylish Café des Architects has become a favorite business lunch spot for locals. Of the 415 rooms, 55 are suites that offer pullout sofas and striking vie ws of the lake and city. (To comfortably fit a crib in the room, you’ll want a suite.) Up to two children can stay in a r oom for no extra charge—tr y a suite or a standar d room with two double beds. And speaking of beds, they ’re outfitted with fabulously fluffy and inviting duv ets. Closets are spacious, and the bathtub is stocked with candles and fr esh flowers. Babysitting services are available upon request, and little guests r eceive their own Sofitel teddy bear.

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160 E. Pearson St., Chicago, IL 60611. & 800/621-6906 or 312/266-1000. F ax 312/266-1194. w ww.four seasons.com. 435 units . $495–$635 double; $710–$4,000 suit e. Weekend rates from $385. K ids 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways and cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $40 with in/ out privileges; self-park ing $32 with no in/out privileges . Sub way/El: Red Line t o Chicago/Stat e. P ets accepted. Amenities: 2 r estaurants (F rench, American); 2 lounges; indoor pool; health club w/spa, Jacuzzi, and sauna; childr en’s programs; concierge; business c enter; 24-hr. room ser vice; in-room massage; babysitting; laundr y ser vice; same -day dr y cleaning; pr emier suites. In room: A/C, TV/VCR w/pay movies, CD player, high-speed Internet access, minibar, hair dryer, iron, safe.

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families, but the lack of a pool, game r oom, or other kid-friendly amenities (many of which its competitors offer) may be a negativ e. Still, plenty of families hav e made it a tradition to stay here. Parents will be happy to know that the typical room is generous in size and furnished comfortably with a separate sitting area; some have two bathrooms. The lakeview rooms are lovely, and—no surprise—you’ll pay more for them. B e forewarned that “city view” rooms on lower floors look out onto another building, so you’ll probably be keeping your drapes shut. Even if you don’t stay at the hotel, take your older kids to the lavishly decorated Palm Court for afternoon tea, which is accompanied b y a harpist. The hotel ’s r estaurants include Drake Bros., an upscale r estaurant with gr eat vie ws of the lake and M ichigan Avenue; the Cape Cod Room, an old-time-style local favorite for seafood; and Coq d’Or, one of Chicago’s most atmospheric piano bars. All of the r estaurants have kids’ menus. 140 E. Walton Plac e (at M ichigan Ave.), Chicago, IL 60611. & 800/55-DRAKE (553-7253) or 312/7872200. Fax 312/787-1431. w ww.thedrakehotel.com. 535 units . $199–$425 double; $279–$495 ex ecutive floor; from $545 suite. Kids 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways and cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $32 with in/out privileges . Subway/El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Amenities: 3 restaurants (American, steakhouse, seafood); 2 lounges; fitness center; concierge; business center; shopping arcade (including a Chanel boutique); barbershop; 24-hr . room ser vice; in-room massage; bab ysitting; laundry service; 24-hr. dry cleaning; ex ecutive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, high-speed Internet access, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

Hilton Suites Chicago/Magnific ent Mile

This full-service all-suite hotel is a very good choice for families seeking something with a little less star ch. Best of all is its location: just off the Mag Mile and next door to the Hancock Building and Water Tower Place. Suites might not be huge, but they’re warm, inviting, and immaculate to boot. All include a separate living r oom (with pullout sofa) and bedr oom. The price depends on bed size, floor (some have spectacular lake views), and furnishings. The hotel doesn’t feel that differ ent fr om other H ilton Suites pr operties, but that consistency might be just what some people are looking for. The hotel’s high spot—literally—is the fitness center on the 30th floor , with a pool that’s surr ounded b y stunning vie ws of N avy Pier and the M agnificent Mile; kids ar e welcome at both. (Stop by on a summer Wed or Sat evening for a great view of the fireworks at Navy Pier.) The hotel also is home to Mrs. Park’s Tavern, a family-friendly place featuring creative American far e. The restaurant has a kids ’ menu and side walk seating that offers prime people-watching in the shado w of the John Hancock building.

198 E. Dela ware Place, Chicago, IL 60611. & 800/HILTON1 (445-8661) or 312/664-1100. F ax 312/6648627. www.hilton.com. 345 units . $159–$229 double . Kids 17 and under sta y free in par ent’s room. No rollaways (sofa beds in ev ery suite); cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $50 with in/out privileges. Subway/El: Red Line t o Chicago/State. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; indoor pool; fitness r oom; hot tub; sauna; concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry room; dry cleaning; free high-speed Internet access in public spaces. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

InterContinental Chicago

Newer hotels might get all the attention, but the InterContinental remains a sentimental fav orite for many Chicagoans, ranking right up there with The Drake in our affections. B uilt as the M edinah Athletic Club in 1929, the building’s original lobby features truly grand details: marble columns, hand-stenciled ceilings, and historic tapestries. The addition of a drab, impersonal modern tower in the 1960s added mor e r ooms but gav e the I nterContinental a some what schiz ophrenic quali ty. A

The James Hotel

One of the city’s newest hotels (opened in 2006), the J ames brought a much-needed small luxur y alternative to Chicago’s hotel scene. Yes, you’ll see more business travelers here than families, but well-heeled families in the know stay here, too (it’s probably best for kids 8 and older). Cool and stylish, the hotel has a small lobby. Rooms ar e a tribute to modern minimalism: dar k wood platform beds, leather cube stools, chocolate-colored carpeting, and slate-tiled bathr ooms complete the decor . The hotel’s strength is its amenities. There’s a good chance y our kids will har dly notice the decor when they see the 42-inch plasma television in the room. There’s also Wi-Fi and a stereo with an iP od dock. A small spa and gym ar e located on the lo wer level. Parents should get a sitter and tr y the hotel’s steakhouse, David Burke’s Primehouse, and check out the nightlife at adjoining J Bar. One downside is the lack of views. Make sure to ask for a street view, and you’ll be able to admire the famed Medinah Temple down the street; courtyard vie ws ar e dismal. F amilies might want to inquir e about the one-bedr oom corner apartments that include a w et bar; they star t at $329 per night. Loft r ooms are 550 square feet in size and feature artwork by Chicago artists.

55 E. Ontario St. (at Wabash Ave.), Chicago, IL 60611. & 877/526-3755 or 312/337-1000. w ww.james hotels.com. 297 units (including 52 studios). $189–$529 double; $229–$569 studio; $289–$629 lof t; $329–$669 apt; $1,400–$2,000 penthouse lof t. Kids 11 and under sta y free in par ent’s room. Rollaways

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505 N. M ichigan Ave. (at Grand A ve.), Chicago, IL 60611. & 800/327-0200 or 312/944-4100. F ax 312/ 944-1320. http://chicago.intercontinental.com. 790 units . $235–$350 double; fr om $500 suit e. K ids 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways only in historic South tower $25/night; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet park ing $43 with in/out privileges . Subway/El: Red Line t o Grand/State. Amenities: Restaurant (American); 2 lounges; indoor pool; fitness center w/sauna; concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; laundry service; same-day dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, high-speed and Wi-Fi Internet access, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

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2002 renovation integrated the two sides into a cohesiv e whole, giving the public spaces a more unified, upscale look. A soaring, four-stor y r otunda, topped b y a 50-foot-wide dome, ser ves as the entr y point to the hotel, providing a suitably dramatic welcome. Guest rooms have two distinct identities, depending on location. R ooms in what ’s called the M ain Building (the ’60s addition) have an elegant, urban style, with lots of dark wood, deep yellow walls, and red velvet banquettes. The bathrooms feel brand-ne w but ar en’t particularly spacious, with small tubs. Rooms in the H istoric Tower (the original building) hav e a more old-world feel: elaborately car ved headboar ds, gold accents, and deep-r ed-and-cream drapes and bedding. The bathrooms, however, are completely modern; most come with both a tub and a separate, larger shower stall. (You’ll pay about $50 more for rooms in the Historic Tower.) While you’re here, treat your kids to a swim in the city ’s best pool: The InterContinental’s main claim to fame is the junior Olympic-size pool on the top floor. One of the first aboveground swimming pools ev er built, it’s decorated in a lavish “ Venetian” style, with mosaics, marble columns, and painted tiles. Also be sur e to ask about the family packages when making y our r eservation. I n the past, the hotel has offer ed deals for families that include a backpack for your child, containing a T-shirt and other goodies, a coupon for a fr ee in-room movie, and a 50% discount on all kids ’ meals in the hotel. Complimentary parking has been par t of the package, as w ere complimentary milk and cookies at turndown time. The hotel’s restaurant, Zest, is the only str eet-level restaurant on M ichigan Avenue, and it offers a kids’ menu. (Try to grab a table b y the front windows to enjoy the neverending street scene.)

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$30/night; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $42 with in/out privileges. Subway/El: Red Line to Grand/State. Amenities: Restaurant (steakhouse); adjoining bar/lounge; fitness center w/sauna and spa; concierge; 24-hr. room service; laundry; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, stereo w/iPod/mp3player dock, fax, Wi-Fi, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

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Millennium Knick erbocker Hotel

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Another historic hotel that ’s undergone a face-lift, the Knickerbocker looks spiffy from the lobby but retains a shabby-chic feel on the guest floors. The epitome of J azz Age indulgence when built in 1927 as the D avis, the Knickerbocker has since undergone mor e transformations than M adonna. During the Capone era it was r umored to hav e shady under world connections. I n the 1970s Hugh Hefner turned it into the gaudy P layboy Towers and invited the leisure-suit set to a perpetual disco inferno on the hotel ’s famed illuminated ballr oom floor. By the time the 1980s rolled around, the Knickerbocker had been thr ough the wringer. A multimillion-dollar renovation in 2000 brought the hotel back to life, even if its past glamour has long since faded. Weekends are popular with families, thanks to the hotel’s superb location a block from Oak Street Beach and acr oss the str eet from The Drake. You’ll be in the hear t of M agnificent Mile shopping, and walking distance fr om the American Girl Place. The rooms aren’t especially spacious, but they ar e warm and comfortable. Bathrooms are small but nicely done. One caveat: Views are often rather dismal, but you can catch a glimpse of the lake in all r ooms ending in 14, and corner r ooms (ending in 28) look onto Michigan Avenue. Families might consider staying on the executive level, which has rooms that include separate sitting areas with sofa beds, larger bathrooms, and upgraded bath amenities, including robes and slippers. If you tell the staff that you’re traveling with kids, they will provide some family-friendly amenities such as milk and cookies at turndown. Pay-per-view movies always feature a children’s program.

163 E. Walton Place ( 1/2 block east of M ichigan Ave.), Chicago, IL 60611. & 800/621-8140 or 312/7518100. Fax 312/751-9663. w ww.milleniumhotels.com. 305 units . $169–$299 double; $285–$1,000 suit e. Kids 16 and under sta y free in par ent’s room. Rollaways $20/night; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $40 with in/out privileges. Subway/El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Amenities: Restaurant (American); bar; exercise room; concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, high-speed I nternet access, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dr yer, iron, safe, turndown service.

Sheraton Chicago Hotel & Towers Here’s a beautifully situated hotel, perched on the riverfront with a vie w of the lake. You’re only a shor t walk away fr om Navy Pier and steps from Michigan Avenue, with all its shopping and enter tainment, and buses to whisk you to the Museum Campus. You’re also close to walking paths along the river and lakefront, the Michigan Avenue Bridge, and a few blocks from Millennium Park. You can request a room with views of the Chicago Riv er, Lake Michigan, or the city skyline, and suites are available. The indoor pool and sun deck on the sev enth floor has wraparound views; the pool has r ecently been r enovated. There’s a charge for using the fully equipped health club, with treadmills, Lifecycles, elliptical cross-trainers, life steps, and weight training, plus a sauna and massage therapy. If parents want to spend time on their own, babysitting services are available through the concierge. The hotel has five restaurants and lounges, including Shula’s Steakhouse. For families wanting a quick bite, there’s also a snack bar and cafe. 301 E. Nor th Water St., Chicago, IL 60611. & 877/242-2558 or 312/464-1000. Fax 312/464-9140. www. sheratonchicago.com. 1,209 units. $299 double; from $450 suite. Kids 17 and under sta y free in parent’s room. Rollaways $25/night; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $40 with in/out privileges . Bus:

151 to Michigan Ave. Bridge; walk east. Amenities: 3 restaurants and lounges; indoor pool; health club; sauna; business center; 24-hr. room service; massage. In room: A/C, TV w/video games, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

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Talbott Hotel

Tremont Hotel

Slightly mor e upscale than the Talbott but with the same small, European-style feel, the Tremont caters mainly to adults. Suites are the only realistic family option, as most guest r ooms tend to be on the small (or shall w e say, “intimate”) side. In fact, all rooms except the suites hav e only one bed and accommodate two people. R ooms in the Tremont H ouse—a separate building next door—hav e kitchenettes. S uites ar e designed so one room includes a king-size bed with its o wn television, minibar, and bathroom. The adjoining living r oom includes a sofa bed, television, minibar , and bathr oom. The cozy lobby with a fir eplace sets the mood fr om the start. The furnishings are tasteful without being somber, and rooms are cheery, with yellow walls and large windows. The steak-and-chops restaurant off the lobb y, the memorabilia-filled Mike Ditka’s Restaurant (p. 124), is co-owned by the legendary former Chicago Bears football coach.

100 E. Chestnut St. (1 block w est of M ichigan Ave.), Chicago, IL 60611. & 800/621-8133 or 312/7511900. Fax 312/751-8650. www.tremontchicago.com. 130 units. $119–$279 double; $199–$299 suite. Kids 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. No rollaways (most rooms are too small); cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $40. Sub way/El: Red Line t o Chicago/State. Amenities: Restaurant; small ex ercise room (and ac cess t o nearb y health club); c oncierge; business ser vices; massage; bab ysitting; laundr y service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV/VCR, CD player, high-speed Internet access, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

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20 E. Delaware Place (btw. Rush and Stat e sts.), Chicago, IL 60611. & 800/TALBOTT (825-2688) or 312/ 944-4970. Fax 312/944-7241. w ww.talbotthotel.com. 149 units . $169–$449 standar d k ings; $260–$671 suites. Kids 17 and under sta y free in parent’s room. Rollaways $20/night; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $40 with in/out privileges; self-parking $30. Subway/El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Amenities: Restaurant (I talian); lounge; c omplimentary access to nearby health club; c oncierge; business services; 24-hr. room service; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C; TV, high-speed and Wi-Fi Internet access, minibar, hair dryer, iron, safe.

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Finds The family-owned Talbott is a small, European-style gem that’s one of the city ’s best small, independent hotels, and a fine choice for families. Constructed in the 1920s as an apartment building, the Talbott was converted to a hotel in 1989. That’s great news for families, because the hotel has many suites with two bedrooms and two bathr ooms, plus kitchen facilities. The location just off the M agnificent Mile is superb , and it ’s acr oss the str eet fr om an upscale gr ocer, G oddess and G rocer, which makes it easy to pick up snacks and drinks to stock y our kitchen. The hotel ’s wood-paneled lobb y, decorated with leather sofas and v elvety armchairs, two wor king fireplaces, tapestries, and numer ous French horns used for fo x hunts, is intimate and inviting. Kids ’ amenities ar e sparser her e than at some larger hotels, but the homey , nonchain hotel atmospher e, large suites, av ailability of kitchens, and prime location make this one of my fav orites for families. Rooms are decorated in neutral tones, with furnitur e chosen for its r esidential feel, such as car ved wooden desks, plus E uropean linens and plasma TVs. They vary in size, so ask when making r eservations. Suites and the hotel ’s king r ooms entice with J acuzzi tubs; suites have separate sitting areas with sofa beds and dining tables. The Talbott is not for families in need of extensiv e hotel facilities, but the cozy atmospher e and personal level of ser vice appeal to visitors looking for the feeling of a small inn rather than a sprawling, corporate hotel.

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Courtyard b y Marriott Chicago Do wntown

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Marriott’s budget chain offers families good v alue in the hear t of Riv er N orth. You’re a shor t walk fr om M ichigan Avenue, the Loop, and the many theme restaurants of River North, including the ESPN Zone. The trolley to Navy Pier stops a block from the hotel (on State St.). Plus, you’ll get access to an indoor pool, a fitness center (kids 12 and under must be super vised by an adult), a whirlpool, a sauna, and a sun deck. G uest rooms feature granite vanities, highspeed I nternet access, and sofas, some with pullout beds. R ooms especially good for families include connecting rooms (both double-bedded and king-size) and suites which offer a bedroom plus a sitting room with a sofa bed. The 30 East Café and Lounge has a breakfast buffet (with a special price of $7 for kids), lunch, dinner , and r oom ser vice. There’s no kids’ menu, but most kids will be able to find something they like among the kid-friendly, sandwich-and-soup options on the r egular menu.

30 E. Hubbard St. (at State St.), Chicago, IL 60611. & 800/321-2211 or 312/329-2500. Fax 312/329-0293. www.marriott.com. 337 units . $119–$209 double; $159–$400 suit e. Kids 18 and under sta y free in parent’s room. Rollaways and cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $33 with in/out privileges; selfparking $21. Sub way/El: Red Line t o Grand/State. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; indoor pool; ex ercise room; concierge; room service; laundry service and self-service laundry. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport, high-speed Internet access, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

Courtyard b y Marriott Chicago Do wntown/Magnificent M ile A half-block east of the Magnificent Mile, this hotel is not the place to indulge in luxuries. H owever, it’s a great choice for families, with a killer location plus that rar est of rarities in do wntown hotels: a pool, on the 10th floor. There’s even a large fitness room with great views. Rooms here are generally larger than those at the Courtyard’s sister hotel in River North. Double rooms with two beds featur e two queen-size beds (not two double beds, which is standard in the industry)—a nice option for families of four. King suites have a kitchen with a refrigerator and microwave, plus a pullout couch in the living ar ea. Rooms offer city views, some of Michigan Avenue. Another family-friendly feature in the room design is the shower and bathtub area, which is separate from the vanity and dressing area, a plus when multiple people ar e tr ying to get r eady in the morning. The lobby decor is Ar t Deco, and the r oom decor is pr etty standar d; but ev erything is clean and ne w. An American cafe, Viand Bar & Kitchen, is kid-friendly and also provides room service. And when mom and dad need a pick-me-up, they can get a cup of coffee fr om the Starbucks in the lobby. 165 E. Ontario St. ( just east of M ichigan Ave.), Chicago, IL 60611. & 312/573-0800. Fax 312/573-0573. www.marriott.com. 306 units. $249 double; $309 king suite. Kids 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways and cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $35 with in/out privileges; self-park ing $25 with no in/out privileges . Subway/El: Red Line t o Grand/State. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; indoor pool; exercise room; concierge; room service; laundry service and self-ser vice laundry. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron. Value The soaring modern Doubletree Chicago —Magnificent M ile atrium lobby is impr essive, as is the location east of the M agnificent Mile and close to the Ohio Street Beach and N avy Pier. Although the public spaces hav e the impersonal feel of a conference center, the rooms are cheerily decorated, and the large windows allow sweeping city views from the upper floors. (I recommend the rooms on the north side of the building, which look toward the Hancock Building.) But it’s the amenities that help this hotel stand out, making it one of the best v alues in the city.

Fitness dev otees will delight in the fact that the hotel adjoins the Lakeshor e A thletic Club, where guests may enjo y the extensiv e facilities fr ee of charge (including an indoor pool, fitness classes, and a sauna); you don’t even have to go outside to get there. The hotel also has its own spacious outdoor pool and sun deck; in the summer y ou can sit back and enjoy a drink at the outdoor bar . (Be forewarned, however, that the hotel fills up during summer v acation; book as far in adv ance as possible for J uly–Aug). R ooms on the two Priority Floors include upgraded amenities, a daily ne wspaper, and feather pillows. The Doubletree is a good bet for the budget-conscious family , as kids 17 and under stay free in their parent’s room. Leave the pay-per-view movies one night and head to the massive AMC theaters next door, where all 21 screens offer stadium seating.

Four P oints b y Sher aton—Chicago Do wntown/Magnificent M ile

630 N. Rush St. (just west of Michigan Ave.), Chicago, IL 60611. & 312/981-6600. www.starwoodhotels. com. 226 units . $185 double; $215 junior suit e; $245 k ing suite. Kids 14 and under sta y free in par ent’s room. Rollaways $25; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Self-parking $28 with no in/out privileges . Subway/ El: Red Line to Grand/State. Amenities: Snack bar; indoor pool and whirlpool; fitness room; room service. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, free Internet access, fridge, microwave, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

Hilton Garden Inn

Although it might seem out of place in these urban climes, this Hilton Garden Inn, located on prime r eal estate betw een North Michigan Avenue and the Riv er North neighborhood, is ev ery inch a big-city play er. The hotel caters to business types, but families certainly won’t feel out of place here: The building is adjacent to ESPN Zone, a Virgin Megastore, and the Shops at North Bridge mall. The hotel offers weekend packages for families, so ask for curr ent deals when you call. The hotel doesn’t have much personality—the lobby is strictly business and feels cold. What the place does have going for it—besides location—is a high-rise sensibility that should appeal to families looking for an urban experience. The ample rooms are located between the 13th and the 23rd floors. Views higher up, especially on the east side and fr om corner suites facing north and south, afford dramatic vistas of the cityscape and skyline. The hotel’s six suites include a parlor area, wet bar, and dining table, with possible connections to adjacent rooms.

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This hotel’s location puts y ou and your kids in the hear t of the action—just 1 block w est of the heart of M ichigan Avenue, with its shopping and gr eat restaurants. You’ll also be a block from the stop for the no. 151 bus, which will whisk you south to Millennium Park and the Ar t Institute, or the no . 146, the expr ess bus that goes to M useum Campus. Hotel staff is friendly and accommodating to families: I f American Girl Place is on your list of things to do, the hotel will provide miniature beds for your little girl’s dolls. Rooms feature whirlpool tubs and flatscr een TVs—some come equipped with r efrigerators and microwaves, so make sur e to ask about those amenities. F amilies might want to book a junior suite with two double beds, which also pr ovides a separate sitting ar ea. The pool and whirlpool area is bright and air y. Room service comes from Lawry’s Prime Rib, the venerable steakhouse across the street. At press time, room rates were quite reasonable— I’ve heard as low as $160 for a junior suite in the high season—and self-par king is only $28, a bargain compared to many Magnificent Mile hotels.

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300 E. Ohio St. (at F airbanks C ourt), Chicago , IL 60611. & 312/787-6100. F ax 312/787-6259. w ww. doubletreemagmile.com. 500 units . $109–$270 double . Rollaways $20; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Self-parking $38. Subway/El: Red Line to Grand. Amenities: 2 restaurants (American, cafe); bar; outdoor and indoor pools; complimentary access to nearby health club w/whirlpool and sauna; c oncierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry room; dry cleaning; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies and video games, high-speed Internet access, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

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10 E. Grand A ve. (at Stat e St.), Chicago , IL 60611. & 800/HILTONS (445-8667) or 312/595-0000. F ax 312/595-0955. www.hilton.com. 357 units. $169–$309 double; $400–$700 suit e. Kids 18 and under sta y free in parent’s room. Rollaways $20/night; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $34 with in/out privileges; self-park ing $20 with no in/out privileges . Subway/El: Red Line t o Grand/State. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; indoor pool; fitness c enter w/Jacuzzi and sauna; c oncierge; business center; limited room service; babysitting; laundry service; same-day dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

Homewood Suites An ex cellent choice for families, this hotel offers a handy location and fresh, clean rooms with some nice extras. Because all of the rooms are suites with full kitchens, y ou can pr epare your own meals, and ther e’s plenty of r oom in the suite for ev eryone to spr ead out. H oused just off the M ag Mile in a sleek to wer above retail shops, offices, and a health club—and adjacent to ESPN Z one—the hotel’s design aesthetic is best described as “I talian R enaissance meets C rate & B arrel.” D istressedleather sofas, Mediterranean stone tile, wrought-iron chandeliers, and beaded lampshades adorn its sixth-floor lobby. Rooms—one- and two-bedroom suites and a handful of double-double suites, which can connect to king suites—featur e velvet sofas that ar e all sleepers, and the beds hav e big, thick mattresses. Each comes with a dining room table that doubles as a workspace, and decent-siz e bathr ooms. The hotel pr ovides a complimentar y buffet br eakfast and beverages and hors d’oeuvres every evening; there is also a fr ee grocery-shopping service and free access to an excellent health club next door. 40 E. Grand Ave. (at Wabash St.), Chicago, IL 60611. & 800/CALL-HOME (225-5466) or 312/644-2222. Fax 312/644-7777. w ww.homewoodsuiteschicago.com. 233 units . $109–$359 2-r oom suit e. K ids 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways and cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $35 with in/ out privileges. Subway/El: Red Line t o Grand/State. Amenities: Fitness room w/small pool and view s of the city; concierge; business services; babysitting; laundry machines on all floors; dr y cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, high-speed Internet access, kitchen, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

Westin Chicago M ichigan Avenue Located across the street from the John Hancock Center, this hotel is right on the M agnificent Mile, steps from Bloomingdale’s and Water Tower Place. In past y ears the Westin looked a bit shabb y, but r enovations have spruced up the lobb y, fitness center, and guest r ooms. Rooms were recently renovated and feature a marble foyer, an expanded bathroom, and carpeting. This hotel offers the Westin Kids Club for kids 12 and under . Other notable family amenities ar e the many bab y and toddler accessories av ailable to guests, fr om bottle warmers and cribs to night lights and electrical outlet covers. Kids are greeted with Westin Kids Club sports bottles or sippy cups, which are filled with complimentary beverages at meals. Also av ailable are coloring books, bathtub to ys, and a stor y line on the hotel phone that plays age-appropriate bedtime stories when you dial a four-digit number. The hotel r estaurant will make sur e kids ’ meals ar e r eady when y ou arriv e if y ou call in advance, and special menus are available through room service, too. Older kids can while away the hours with in-room PlayStations. The Grill on the Alley, which serves American cuisine in a contemporary atmosphere, has been winning gr eat reviews. You’ll be comfor table bringing the kids her e, and the kids’ menu featur es pastas and burgers. A lobb y cafe is a good stop for br eakfast. The small fitness center is open to kids and includes fr ee weights, treadmills, Lifecycles, and StairMasters, and men’s and women’s locker rooms feature saunas. 909 N. M ichigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60611. & 800/228-3000 or 312/943-7200. F ax 312/397-5580. w ww. thewestinmichiganavenue.com. 751 units. $179–$250 double; $600–$800 suit e. Kids 18 and under sta y free in parent’s room. Rollaways $25/night; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $33 with in/out

privileges. Bus: 151 to Delaware St. Pets accepted with $25 fee. Amenities: Restaurant (American); cafe; health club; sauna; children’s programs; 24-hr. room service. In room: A/C, TV w/video games, high-speed Internet access, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

97

INEXPENSIVE

Red Roof Inn Chicago Do wntown

162 E. Ontario St. (1/2 block east of Michigan Ave.), Chicago, IL 60611. & 800/733-7663 or 312/787-3580. Fax 312/787-1299. www.redroof-chicago-downtown.com. 195 units. $100–$140 double; $110–$159 king suite. Kids 17 and under sta y free in par ent’s room. No r ollaways; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $28 with no in/out privileges. Subway/El: Red Line to Grand/State. Amenities: Business services; free morning coffee in lobby. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport, hair dryer, iron.

4 RIVER NORTH

EXPENSIVE

Embassy Suites Hotel Chicago —Downtown

You might fancy y ourself in Florida when you first set foot in this hotel, where a gushing waterfall and palm- and fernlined landscaped ponds lie at the bottom of the huge central atrium. B ut you’re not in the Tropics: You’re in one of Chicago’s most family-friendly hotels, even though it bills itself as a business hotel and does a healthy conv ention business. A ccommodations are spacious enough for parents and kids: All guest rooms are suites, which have two rooms, consisting of a living r oom with a sleeper sofa, a r ound table, and four chairs; and a bedr oom with either a king-siz e bed or two double beds. G uests staying on the VIP floor get nightly turndown service and in-room fax machines and robes. At one end of the atrium, the hotel serves a complimentar y cooked-to-order breakfast and, at the other end, it supplies complimentary cocktails and snacks in the ev ening. And yes, there’s a pool. On the weekends, step into the elevator and you’ll find plenty of Chicago-area families with kids wrapped in towels making good use of the hotel as a w eekend getaway.

4 RIVER NORTH

The name “River North” designates a vast area parallel to the Magnificent Mile. The zone is bounded b y the riv er to the w est and south, and r oughly by Clark Street to the east and by Chicago Avenue to the north. The earthy red-brick buildings that characterize the area were once war ehouses of v arious kinds and today form the cor e of Chicago ’s ar tgallery district. The neighborhood also has spawned many of the city ’s trendiest restaurants. You’ll find many of the city ’s family-friendly hotels her e. That, coupled with the proximity of tourist draws such as the H ard R ock Cafe, Rainfor est Café, and ESPN Zone, means River North is an area families should consider when booking a hotel.

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Value This hotel is y our best bet for the lowest-priced lodgings in downtown Chicago. The location is its main selling point: right off the M agnificent Mile (and within blocks of the Ritz-Carlton and P eninsula, where rooms will cost y ou at least four times as much). The guest r ooms are stark and small (much like the off-the-highway Red Roof Inns), but the hotel makes continual efforts to update linens and r oom decor. Ask for a r oom facing O ntario Street, where you’ll get western exposure and some natural light (rooms in other parts of the hotel look right into neighboring office buildings). For a family of thr ee or four, go for the king suite, which has a sofa bed, microwave, and refrigerator. Room service is available through Coco Pazzo Café (p. 127), an excellent northern Italian restaurant around the corner from the hotel’s front door.

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RIVER NORTH

4

Off the lobby is an excellent restaurant, Osteria Via Stato, and next door is a Starbucks outlet with outdoor seating. Embassy Suites has a second do wntown location at 511 N. Columbus D r. ( & 312/ 836-5900), just a few blocks from Navy Pier. Highly recommended! 600 N. Stat e St. (at W. Ohio St.), Chicago , IL 60610. & 800/EMBASSY (362-2779) or 312/943-3800. F ax 312/943-7629. w ww.embassysuiteschicago.com. 366 units . $139–$279 k ing suit e; $169–$319 double suite. Kids 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Few rollaways available, ask upon check-in (sofa beds in every suite); cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $38 with in/out privileges . Subway/El: Red Line to Grand/State. Amenities: Restaurant (Italian); coffee bar; indoor pool; exercise room w/whirlpool; concierge; business c enter; limited room service; babysitting; laundry machines; dr y cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies and video games, high-speed Internet access, kitchenette, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

Hotel Sax Chicago In 2007, a $17-million renovation transformed the former House of Blues Hotel into the ne w Hotel Sax Chicago, a luxur y property with a bohemian boutique feel. While the lobb y is cer tainly grand—with Italian marble floors and trompe l ’oeil candelabras—the adjoining lounge, C rimson, goes for a M iddle Eastern vibe, with ex otic rugs, jewel-tone colors, and floor-to-ceiling scr eens and mirr ors. This eclectic sensibility carries over to the guest rooms, which feature wingback chairs covered in snakeskin and side tables constr ucted entir ely of mirr ored panels. D espite the ey ecatching decor , one of the hotel ’s biggest selling points r emains its location in the entertainment-packed Marina Towers complex. Within steps of the hotel, y ou’ve got a bowling alley, a marina with boat r entals, the riv erside Smith & Wollensky steakhouse (an outpost of the New York restaurant), the innovative Bin 36 wine bar and restaurant, and the House of Blues music hall and r estaurant (p. 272; don’t miss its gospel br unch on Sun). 333 N. Dearborn St. (at the riv er), Chicago, IL 60610. & 877/569-3742 or 312/245-0333. F ax 312/9232444. www.hotelsaxchicago.com. 353 units. $269–$449 double; $629–$849 suite. Kids 18 and under stay free in parents’ room. Rollaways $20/night; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $40 with in/out privileges. Subway/El: Brown Line to Clark/Lake, or Red Line to Grand. Pets accepted. Amenities: Lounge; access to Crunch fitness center for $15/day; concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry service; same-day dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies and video games, Wi-Fi, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe, multiline telephone.

Westin Chicago River North Located on the northern bank of the Chicago River, the Westin River North has the personality of a business hotel but has made an effort to be family-friendly. Especially notable are the many baby and toddler accessories available to guests, fr om bottle warmers and cribs to night lights, jogging str ollers, and electrical-outlet covers. Like the Westin Michigan Avenue (reviewed in the previous section), this hotel offers the Westin Kids Club for kids 12 and under. Kids are greeted with Westin Kids Club spor ts bottles or sippy cups, which ar e filled with complimentar y beverages at meals. Other perks include coloring books, bathtub toys, and a story line on the hotel phone that plays age-appr opriate bedtime stories when y ou dial a four-digit number. Kids’ meals are available at the hotel restaurant with advance notice, and special menus are available through room service. Rooms are handsome, and the whole hotel has a slight Japanese feel to it (years ago, it was the Japanese-owned Hotel Nikko), with a Zen rock garden at the rear of the lobby; the lobby’s Hana Lounge also offers a sushi menu. R ooms are handsome, with furniture and artwork that giv e them a r esidential feel. F or the best vie w, request a r oom facing south, overlooking the Chicago Riv er. For those who feel like splurging, a suite on the

19th floor more than satisfies, with thr ee enormous rooms, including a huge bathr oom and a large window offering a side vie w of the river.

99

320 N. Dearborn St. (on the riv er), Chicago, IL 60610. & 800/WESTIN1 (937-8461) or 312/744-1900. Fax 312/527-9650. www.westinchicago.com. 424 units . $199–$350 double; $400–$2,800 suit e. Kids 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways $25/night; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $39 with in/out privileges; self-parking $16. Subway/El: Brown, Orange, or Green Line to State/Lake. Amenities: Restaurant (c ontemporary American); lounge; fitness c enter; c oncierge; business c enter; 24-hr . room ser vice; babysitting; laundr y ser vice; same -day dr y cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies and video games, fax, high-speed Internet access, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

MODERATE

This former motor lodge and cold-storage structure conceals a very attractive, sharply designed interior that scar cely resembles any Best Western in which you’re likely to have spent the night. One of the few hotels located right in the midst of one of the busiest nightlife and r estaurant zones in the city, it lies within easy walking distance of inter esting boutiques and Chicago ’s art-gallery district. Rooms are spacious, and the bathrooms are spotless (though no-frills). One-room suites have a sitting ar ea, while other suites hav e a separate bedr oom; all suites come with a sleeper sofa (the F amily Suite has two separate bedr ooms and two bathr ooms). A big selling point for families is the indoor pool, with an adjoining outdoor oof r deck (a smallish fitness room looks out onto the pool). The Best Western’s reasonable rates will appeal to families on a budget—and the almost-unhear d-of free parking can add up to significant savings for any one who driv es her e for a visit. There’s a 2-night minimum for weekend stays May through October.

Hampton Inn & Suites Chicago—Downtown

Value The Hampton, with its combination of rooms, two-room suites, and studios, is a smart choice for families. Kids will appreciate the indoor pool and in-r oom video games and VCRs after a busy day of sightseeing. You won’t have far to go to find dinner: The Hard Rock Cafe and Rainforest Café are both a few blocks’ walk away. Though built in 1998, the hotel still feels brandnew; the Prairie-style lobby and breakfast lounge give the place a tranquil feel. The rooms have an urban look, with dar k wood furnitur e and plush duv ets. Request a r oom overlooking I llinois or D earborn str eets if y ou crav e natural light; most r ooms don’t offer much of a vie w. The standar d r ooms include a desk, an armchair and an ottoman; a studio has a micr owave, sink and minifridge along one wall; and the apar tment-style suites feature galley kitchens with fridges, microwaves, dishwashers, and cooking utensils, and a separate bedroom. Nice touches for families include a nightlight in the bathr oom and clock radios with guides to local radio stations. You won’t have to cook breakfast in your kitchenette—the hotel offers a complimentary breakfast buffet, with two hot items per day. Off the lobb y is an I talian restaurant, and a second-floor skywalk connects to Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse next door.

33 W. Illinois St. (at Dearborn St.), Chicago, IL 60610. & 800/HAMPTON (426-7866) or 312/832-0330. Fax 312/832-0333. www.hamptoninn.com. 230 units. $159–$199 double; $199–$309 suite. Kids 17 and under stay free in par ent’s room. Rollaways $10/night; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet park ing $38 with

4 RIVER NORTH

125 W. Ohio St. (at LaSalle St.), Chicago, IL 60610. & 800/528-1234 or 312/467-0800. Fax 312/467-1665. www.rivernorthhotel.com. 150 units. $159–$199 double; $225–$295 suite. Kids 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways $10/night; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free park ing for guests (1 car per room) with in/out privileges . Sub way/El: Red Line t o Grand/Stat e. Amenities: Restaurant (pizz eria); lounge; indoor pool w/sun deck; exercise room; room service; laundry service; same-day dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies and video games , high-speed and Wi-Fi Internet access, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY A CCO M M O D AT I O N S

Best Western River North Hotel Value

100 in/out privileges. Subway/El: Red Line t o Grand/State. Amenities: Restaurant (I talian); indoor pool w/

Jacuzzi and sun deck ; exercise room w/sauna; business c enter; room service; laundry and dr y-cleaning service. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies and video games , high-speed I nternet access, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY A CCO M M O D AT I O N S

5 T H E G O L D CO A S T

T H E G O L D CO A S T

4

The G old Coast begins appr oximately at D ivision Street and extends nor th to N orth Avenue, bounded on the w est b y Clar k S treet and on the east b y the lake. The ar ea encompasses a short strip of some of the city’s priciest real estate along Lake Shore Drive. From the standpoint of social status, the str eets cluster ed her e ar e among the finest addresses in Chicago . It’s a lo vely neighborhood for a str oll among the graceful to wn houses and the several lavish mansions that remain relics from a glitzier past. The hotels here tend to be upscale without hitting the peak that some of the nearb y M ichigan Avenue hotels reach. To locate these hotels, see the “Central Chicago A ccommodations” map on p. 76.

EXPENSIVE

Ambassador East

The ring-a-ding glory days of the Ambassador East, when stars including Frank Sinatra, Humphrey Bogart, and Liza M innelli shacked up her e during layovers or touring stops in Chicago, ar e ancient histor y. B ut ev en though big-name celebs tend to ensconce themselves at the Peninsula or Park Hyatt these days, the Ambassador name still ev okes images of high glamour in these par ts. For the past 50 y ears, celebrities who hav e come to to wn to mingle with Chicago ’s Gold Coast society hav e done so most publicly from the revered Booth One in the ritzy Pump Room restaurant. Less pricey than the Peninsula or Park Hyatt, and located on a beautiful tree-lined street in the Gold Coast, the Ambassador East is a good choice for families looking for accommodations near, but not on, the M agnificent Mile. The Ambassador still retains a sense of elegance, from the large floral arrangements in the lobby to the mahogany four-poster beds in the king-size rooms. Executive suites have separate sitting areas; celebrity suites (named for the stars who’ve crashed in them) come with a separate bedr oom, two bathr ooms, and a dining r oom. Most extravagant is the Presidential Suite, which has a canopied terrace, a marble fir eplace and an o val dining room. One nod to modern times ar e the “G et Fit” rooms, which come with tr eadmills and a minibar stocked with healthy snacks. 1301 N. State Pkwy. (1 block north of Division St.), Chicago, IL 60610. & 888/506-3471 or 312/787-7200. Fax 312/787-4760. w ww.theambassadoreasthotel.com. 285 units . $189–$299 double; fr om $400 suit e. Kids 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways and cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $34 with in/out privileges. Subway/El: Red Line to Clark/Division. Amenities: Restaurant (contemporary American); small fitness room; concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; 24-hr. laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, high-speed I nternet access, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

MODERATE

Hotel Indigo

Finds An accessible v ersion of the boutique hotel concept, the Indigo is perfect for families with older kids looking for a cool (but not too edgy) alternative to the cookie-cutter chain hotel. The bright, beachy decor makes the place feel more like a tropical resort than an urban hotel; the small lobby has oversize Adirondack chairs

6 L I N CO L N PA R K & T H E N O R T H S I D E If you prefer the feel of living amid real Chicagoans in a residential neighborhood, several options await you in Lincoln Park and farther north. Not only do these hotels tend to be more affordable than those closer to downtown, but they also provide a different vantage point from which to vie w Chicago. If you stay at the M ajestic Hotel or the City S uites Hotel, for example, y ou can join the locals on a pedestrian pilgrimage to Wrigley Field for a Cubs game. The area is flush with restaurants, and public transportation via the El or buses is a snap.

EXPENSIVE

The Belden-Stratford

Finds This north-side hotel is a gr eat option for families who want to do as the nativ es do in a neighborhood atmospher e. Actually a condominium building that offers 25 hotel rooms, the two-story lobby feels grandly European, and paneled entry doors lead the way to airy rooms with 9-foot-high ceilings, crown molding, and plush carpeting. Rooms are large, the doorman gr eets you as if you were a resident, and Lincoln Park, where kids can run free, is across the street. You are right across from

4 L I N CO L N PA R K & T H E N O R T H S I D E

1244 N. Dearborn St. (1 block nor th of Division St.), Chicago , IL 60610. & 866/2-INDIGO (246-3446) or 312/787-4980. Fax 312/787-4069. w ww.goldcoastchicagohotel.com. 165 units . $169–$269 double . Kids 18 and under stay free in parents’ room. Rollaways $20/night; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $35 with in/out privileges . Subway/El: Red Line t o Clark/Division. Pets accepted. Amenities: Restaurant (American); lounge; exercise room; spa services; concierge; business center; room service; same-day dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies and video games, high-speed and Wi-Fi Internet access, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

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and walls painted in shades of blue, peach, and gr een, and pineapple-shaped chairs line 101 the bar. But it’s the guest rooms that really make an impact. Rather than the dark wood furniture and generic carpeting found in so many chain hotels, rooms here are light and bright with blonde har dwood floors and white wood furnitur e. Walls have splashes of bright color and giant photomurals of seashells, fruit, and other “relaxing” images. Because this is a conversion of an older pr operty, room sizes vary. The king rooms on the nor th side of the building tend to be larger (with separate entry halls and sitting areas), but they also look out on neighboring buildings (and, in some cases, the fire escape). If you don’t need a lot of room to spread out, the queen rooms (on the south side of the building) are small but have lovely views of do wntown and plenty of natural light. B athrooms have glasswalled shower stalls (no tubs, thus my r ecommendation that this hotel is best suited to families with older childr en only) and spa-style sho wer heads; they ’re fairly small, but have lots of storage space (multiple wall hooks and a granite storage ledge above the sink). There are also three suites, which have separate sitting rooms and working fireplaces. Hotel Indigo won’t overwhelm you with facilities; the hotel ’s restaurant and bar ar e both quite small, but ther e’s a decent-size fitness room and—very unusual in a hotel of this size—a salon/spa with separate facial and massage tr eatment rooms. Though Hotel Indigo is tucked on a residential street, it’s close to restaurants and shopping, and within walking distance of M ichigan Avenue, Division Street, and Lincoln P ark’s many attractions. The surrounding neighborhood of elegant to wn houses makes a gr eat place for a stroll—without the traffic and noise of other do wntown neighborhoods.

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104 the Lincoln Park Zoo and the Conservatory, and steps from the lake and buses that will take you downtown in a matter of minutes. Be sure to ask for a r oom with a par k view so that y ou can watch r unners pass and couples stroll. (Some rooms feature wraparound views with south, w est, and east exposures.) Even though it ’s a condominium building, ther e’s maid and v alet ser vice and a rooftop sun deck. One downside: Because the Belden-Stratford is not a full-service hotel, there’s no room service or concierge.

L I N CO L N PA R K & T H E N O R T H S I D E

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2300 N. Lincoln Park W., Chicago, IL 60614. & 800/800-6261 or 773/281-2900. Fax 773/880-2039. www. beldenstratford.com. 25 units. $209–$299 double. Kids 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways $20/night; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $25 with in/out privileges. Subway/El: Red Line to Fullerton. Amenities: Fitness center; spa; salon; c oin-op laundr y. In room: A/C, TV; hair dr yer and ir on upon request.

MODERATE

Best Western Hawthorne Terrace

Value A fantastic bargain for families who don’t mind staying a bit nor th of the beaten track, this hotel offers plenty of space for a great price. Located in Lakevie w—within walking distance of Wrigley F ield, Lake Michigan, and the Lincoln Park walking and bike paths—the hotel is set back from busy Broadway Avenue, thanks to a charmingly landscaped terrace (a good spot to enjoy your complimentary continental breakfast when the weather’s nice). Inside, the relatively large rooms—decorated in standard motel decor—won’t win extra style points, but most ar e bright and cheer y, with spotless bathr ooms (another plus: many r ooms have two windows, a bonus if y ou crave natural light). Junior suites provide a room with two double beds, and an adjoining living room with a pullout couch; families of four will fit comfortably in one of these suites, which can also accommodate a crib. The spacious “Whirlpool King” r ooms come with whirlpool bathtubs, D VD play ers, pay-per-vie w mo vies, and great views out onto the str eet. The ground-level exercise room is especially w elcoming, with large windows to let light in and a glass-enclosed hot tub . Best of all? P arking is a bargain at $20 a day—about half the going rate of most do wntown hotels.

3434 N. Broadway (at Hawthorne Place), Chicago, IL 60657. & 888/401-8781 or 773/244-3434. Fax 773/ 244-3435. www.hawthorneterrace.com. 59 units. $149–$229 double and suit es. Rates include continental breakfast. Kids 12 and under sta y free in parent’s room. Rollaways free (sofa beds pr ovided in junior suites); cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $20 with in/out privileges . Subway/El: Red Line t o Belmont. Amenities: Exercise room w/hot tub and sauna; c oncierge; business ser vices; same -day dr y cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, free Wi-Fi, fridge, microwave, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron. Finds Windy City Urban Inn Children over the age of 10 ar e welcome at this grand 1886 home, located on a tranquil side str eet just blocks away fr om busy Clar k Street and Lincoln A venue—both chock-full of shops, r estaurants, and bars. The inn is charming enough, but the tr ue selling point of the Windy City I nn is hosts Andy and Mary Shaw. He’s a w ell-known political r eporter, and she has 20 y ears of experience in the Chicago bed-and-breakfast business. Together, they are excellent resources for anyone who wants to get bey ond the usual tourist sites. S ubtle Chicago touches giv e guests a distinctive experience: B lues and jazz play during the buffet br eakfast, and local food favorites offered to guests include the famous cinnamon buns fr om Ann Sather’s restaurant and beer from Goose Island Brewery. The remodeled building has a mor e open feel than the typical Victorian home. The five rooms in the main house and three apartments in a coach house are each named after Chicago writers. Families should choose one of the two coach-house apartments that can

sleep four: two in an upstairs bedr oom and two on a bed that folds up against the wall. 105 (Custom-made for the S haws, these featur e top-quality mattr esses, making them much more comfortable than the Murphy beds of old.) These apartments have kitchens and are wonderfully cozy with their fireplaces and Jacuzzi tubs. In good weather, guests are invited to eat breakfast on the back porch or in the garden between the main house and the coach house. There, you can sit back and imagine that you’re living in your very own Chicago mansion—the type of home that many Chicagoans wish they could live in themselves.

INEXPENSIVE

City Suites Hotel Value

933 W. Belmont Ave. (at Sheffield Ave.), Chicago, IL 60657. & 800/248-9108 or 773/404-3400. Fax 773/ 404-3405. w ww.cityinns.com. 45 units . $149–$249 double; $199–$409 suit e. R ates include c ontinental breakfast. Kids 12 and under sta y free in parent’s room. No rollaways (sofa beds in suit es);