Frommer's Chicago Day by Day, 2nd Edition

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Chicago

d ay d ay BY

2nd Edition

By Laura Tiebert

™

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Contents 1 6 Fav o r i t e M o m e n t s

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1 T h e B e s t Fu l l - D ay To u rs

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The Best in One Day 8 The Best in Two Days 12 The Best in Three Days 18

2 T h e B e s t S p e c i a l - I n t e re s t To u rs

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The Loop: An Architectural Tour 26 Mag Mile: An Architectural Tour 32 Navy Pier 36 The Art Institute of Chicago 38 Museum of Science & Industry 42

3 T h e B e s t N e i g h b o r h o o d Wa l k s The Gold Coast 46 Old Town 50 Bucktown & Wicker Park Andersonville 60 Hyde Park 64

4 The Best Shopping

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69

Shopping Best Bets 70 Shopping A to Z 75

5 T h e B e s t o f t h e O u t d o o rs Indiana Dunes 86 Chicago Lakeshore 90

6 The Best Dining

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Dining Best Bets 96 Restaurants A to Z 100

85

45

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Nightlife Best Bets 108 Nightlife A to Z 113

8 The Best Ar ts & Enter tainment Arts & Entertainment Best Bets 120 Arts & Entertainment A to Z 125

9 The Best Hotels

131

Hotel Best Bets 132 Hotels A to Z 136

1 0 T h e B e s t D ay Tr i p s & E xc u rs i o n s 1 4 5 Oak Park 146 Evanston 150

T h e S av v y Trav e l e r

153

Before You Go 154 Getting There 157 Getting Around 158 Fast Facts 160 Chicago: A Brief History 169 Chicago’s Architecture 171 Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 176

I n d ex

178

119

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Published by:

W i l ey P u b l i s h i n g , I n c . 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2009 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572-4355, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley, the Wiley Publishing logo, and Day by Day are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 978-0-470-42208-3 Editor: Anuja Madar Production Editor: Jonathan Scott Photo Editor: Richard Fox Cartographer: Roberta Stockwell Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in China 5

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A N o t e f ro m t h e E d i t o r i a l D i re c t o r Organizing your time. That’s what this guide is all about. Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and then expect you to fit the pieces together. The Day by Day guides are different. These guides tell you the best of everything, and then they show you how to see it in the smartest, most time-efficient way. Our authors have designed detailed itineraries organized by time, neighborhood, or special interest. And each tour comes with a bulleted map that takes you from stop to stop. Hoping to see the magnificent architecture of the Windy City, or to tour the highlights of the Museum of Science and Industry? Planning a walk through the Gold Coast, or a whirlwind tour of the very best that Chicago has to offer? Whatever your interest or schedule, the Day by Days give you the smartest routes to follow. Not only do we take you to the top attractions, hotels, and restaurants, but we also help you access those special moments that locals get to experience—those “finds” that turn tourists into travelers. The Day by Days are also your top choice if you’re looking for one complete guide for all your travel needs. The best hotels and restaurants for every budget, the greatest shopping values, the wildest nightlife—it’s all here. Why should you trust our judgment? Because our authors personally visit each place they write about. They say what they think and would never include places they wouldn’t recommend to their best friends. They’re also open to suggestions from readers. If you’d like to contact them, please send your comments our way at [email protected], and we’ll pass them on. Enjoy your Day by Day guide—the most helpful travel companion you can buy. And have the trip of a lifetime. Warm regards,

Kelly Regan Editorial Director Frommer’s Travel Guides

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About the Author La u ra T i e b e r t is a freelance writer whose travels have taken her from the frozen tundra of Dawson City in Yukon Territory to the wide sand beaches of Muscat, Oman. Today, she stays a bit closer to home in Wilmette, Illinois, where she lives with her husband and two sons. She is the author of Frommer’s Chicago with Kids and Chicago For Dummies.

A c k n ow l e d g m e n t s This book is better because of the insightful editing of Anuja Madar and Naomi Kraus. Thank you!

An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time— and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings.

S t a r R a t i n g s , I c o n s & A b b re v i a t i o n s Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a s t a r-ra t i n g s ys t e m . Hotels, restaurants, attractions, shopping, and nightlife are rated on a scale of zero stars (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). In addition i c o n to point out the best bets to the star-rating system, we also use a for families. Within each tour, we recommend cafes, bars, or restaurants where you can take a break. Each of these stops appears in a shaded box marked with a coffee-cup-shaped bullet .

=

P

The following a b b re v i a t i o n s are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

V Visa

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F r o m m e rs . c o m Now that you have this guidebook to help you plan a great trip, visit our website at w w w. f ro m m e rs . c o m for additional travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features regularly to give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll find scoops on the best airfares, lodging rates, and car rental bargains. You can even book your travel online through our reliable travel booking partners. Other popular features include:

A Note on Prices In the “Take a Break” and “Best Bets” sections of this book, we have used a system of dollar signs to show a range of costs for 1 night in a hotel (the price of a double-occupancy room) or the cost of an entree at a restaurant. Use the following table to decipher the dollar signs: Cost $ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$

Hotels under $125 $125–$300 $300–$450 $450–$600 over $600

R e s t a u ra n t s under $15 $15–$30 $30–$45 $45–$60 over $60

An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Chicago Day by Day, 2nd Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

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r a n k S i n a t ra o n c e p ro c l a i m e d C h i c a g o h i s k i n d o f t o w n . It’s mine, as well. Awaiting you in the Windy City are new discoveries and favorite places you’ll want to visit again and again, from riding the “El” to singing along with the crowds at Wrigley Field’s seventh-inning stretch. In this section, I describe some quintessential Chicago experiences that just might become part of your family’s vacation lore. They may make Chicago your kind of town, too.

1 Ta ke yo u rs e l f o u t t o t h e b a l lg a m e a t Wr i g l ey F i e l d . Our historic ballpark approaches perfection with its ivy-covered walls, hand-operated scoreboard, and view of the jadecolored, glassy waters of Lake Michigan from the upper decks. Now that lights have been installed, the Cubs play night games, but Wrigley is still best experienced on a summer afternoon, when you’ll be surrounded by plenty of natives playing hooky from work—a Windy City tradition. See p 17, #

2 Ta ke a r i d e o n o u r fa m o u s “ E l ” t ra i n . Our elevated train is not only the least expensive ride in town, it’s an experience that can be had only in Chicago. For the best views, board the Brown Line at Washington/Wells, and ride it around the Loop through the canyons of office buildings (you’ll be close enough to peer into some of them). It’ll take less than 30 minutes of your touring time, and kids love it. See p 9, 1.

Historic Wrigley Field, home of the Chicago Cubs and the best seventh-inning stretch in baseball.

foods that will appear on plates in the best restaurants in town. There’s music, live cooking demonstrations, and a chance to sample French-style crepes made to order with market ingredients. See p 17, 0.

4 M a r ve l a t t h e i n t r i c a t e p o i n t i l -

l i s m o f S e u ra t ’s A S u n d ay o n La G ra n d e J a t t e and other masterpieces at Chicago’s grande dame of museums, the Art Institute. You’ll find Seurat’s work in the renowned Impressionist collection, which also features one of the world’s largest 3 S a m p l e t h e M i d west’s b e s t collections of Monet paintings. Your fa r m - g row n fo o d s second stop at the Chicago Georges Seurat’s pointillist masterpiece, should be the G re e n C i t y M a rA Sunday on La Grande Jatte. collections k e t . Founded of European by prominent and AmeriChicago can contemchefs, this Linporary art, coln Park marhome to ket allows works by regular folks Picasso, to buy the Matisse, same organic Dalí, Pollock, and sustainand Warhol. ably grown See p 38.

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5 c i t y ’s m a n y g re a t m u s i c j o i n t s . At B.L.U.E.S., stellar female performers are the draw. At Buddy Guy’s Legends, the Louisiana-style soul food and barbecue makes it worth arriving early and settling in for the evening. If you visit Chicago in January, don’t miss out on a performance by the legendary guitarist who owns this place; but book ahead— the shows sell out well in advance. See p 116.

6 S t ro l l t h e l a ke f ro n t a n d o g l e o u r i n l a n d o c e a n . Chicago’s forefathers had the foresight to keep the city’s 29 miles (47km) of lakefront free and clear of development. As a result, you can bike, rollerblade, jog, or walk along Lake Michigan and enjoy a chain of parks that includes Chicago’s signature Lincoln Park and Grant Park. See p 90.

7 A d m i re our re n ow n e d s k y l i n e on a boat cruise along the Chicago R i ve r a n d La ke M i c h i g a n . The best way to get a perspective on Chicago’s history and learn about the dramatic buildings that form the city’s skyline is to take an architecture boat tour. Some of the best are run by the Chicago Architecture Foundation, covering some 40 buildings with entertaining and enlightening narrative from an army of well-versed docents. See p 14, 1.

8 C h e c k o u t t h e wa re s o n t h e M a g n i f i c e n t M i l e . Shopping is the thing on Michigan Avenue, and you can easily while away a day browsing and buying your way up the avenue. Other areas of the city offer chic boutiques and hard-to-find antiques and vintage clothing, but for a huge selection offering something for everyone, the Magnificent Mile is your best bet. See p 71.

9 E x p l o re t h e o u t d o o r a rc h i t e c t u ra l m u s e u m t h a t i s O a k Pa r k . If you have a passion for architecture

or literature, you’ll find plenty of sights to see in this suburb on the western border of the city. Ernest Hemingway was born here, and his home and a museum offer insight into Oak Park’s most famous native son. But most visitors are drawn to the Frank Lloyd Wright Home & Studio, and to the homes lining Oak Park’s well-maintained streets that the famous architect designed. See p 148.

0 S h a re a laugh at The Second City. Training ground for the country’s best comedians, The Second City excels in long-form improvisational comedy. Ensembles change frequently, so check the local newspapers for reviews of the latest offering. And, if you like your history mixed with humor (and who doesn’t?), don’t miss The Second City’s Neighborhood Tours, guided by actors, in cooperation with the Chicago Historical Society. See p 126.

! G r i p t h e e d g e o f yo u r s e a t a t a C h i c a g o t h e a t e r c o m p a n y p e rf o r m a n c e . Whether you choose a production by the Steppenwolf Theatre Company, Goodman Theatre, or a smaller venue such as Victory Gardens Theatre, don’t miss a chance to see what might be the Frank Lloyd Wright’s Unity Temple in Oak Park, noted for its Prairie School design.

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5 Get the blues at one of the

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next big hit to move to Broadway. See p 127.

@ Climb aboard a captured Uboat at the Museum of Science and Industry, the granddaddy of interactive museums. The U-505, captured in 1944 and brought to the museum 10 years later, is only one of 2,000 exhibits. It’s easy to spend a day here, especially if you take in an Omnimax movie, located in the Henry Crown Space Center, where you can also hop aboard a simulator to experience a space shuttle flight. See p 42.

# Explore Hyde Park’s Gothic quadrangle and magnificent mansions. Home to the University of Chicago, with its 73 Nobel laureates, intimidating buildings with Gothic spires, and hallowed academic halls, Hyde Park is sure to impress. Off-campus, Hyde Park is an integrated, cosmopolitan neighborhood that’s home to one of Frank Lloyd Wright’s finest works, the Robie House. See p 64.

$ Take in jazz or a poetry slam at Green Mill. This popular watering hole of the 1920s and 1930s still retains its speak-easy flavor. On Check out your reflection in Millennium Park’s Cloud Gate sculpture.

A WWII U-boat, on display at the Museum of Science and Industry.

Sunday night, Green Mill hosts the Uptown Poetry Slam, where poets vie for the open mic. Most nights, though, jazz is on the menu from about 9pm ’til the wee hours, so sink into a plush velvet booth and enjoy. See p 129.

% Get snout-to-nose with the baby belugas at John G. Shedd Aquarium. The world’s largest indoor aquarium is a city treasure. Don’t miss the Oceanarium, which re-creates a Pacific Northwest coastal environment and features a wall of windows that reveals the lake outside and creates the illusion of one uninterrupted expanse of sea (that’s where you’ll find those baby belugas). See p 21, 8.

^ Interact with the sculpture at Millennium Park, the city’s newest urban showpiece. One of the most popular attractions is Cloud Gate, the huge elliptical sculpture by British artist Anish Kapoor, in which you can examine your reflection in funhouse-like distortions. While you’re here, don’t miss the stunning Frank Gehry–designed Pritzker Music Pavilion, home to free summer concerts performed by the Grant Park Symphony Orchestra. See p 10, 8.

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ith 1 day to spend in Chicago, focus on the heart of the city. The Loop is a collection of commercial, governmental, and cultural buildings contained within a corral of elevated train tracks. Here you’ll find classic Chicago experiences, plus the chance to glimpse the city’s future in its newest urban showcase, Millennium Park. START: Washington/Wells El Station.

1 ★★★ = Ride the Brown Line “El” (Elevated Train) around the Loop. Board the Brown Line at Washington/Wells, and ride it around the Loop through the canyons of office buildings (you’ll be close enough to peer into some of them). Stop off at Randolph/Wabash (or, if you don’t mind a longer walk, ride to Clark/Lake).

@ 30 min. Avoid rush-hour boarding before 9am and from 3:30–6:30pm. y 888/YOURCTA. www.transit chicago.com. Tickets $1.75 per ride, 85¢ for kids 7–11 and seniors, free for kids under 7. El: Brown Line to Washington/Wells. 2 Macy’s. In 2006, the former Marshall Field’s became Macy’s, much to locals’ chagrin. This department store’s clock is one of the city’s most-recognized icons. Browse the store’s famous windows, or stop in for Frango Mints, a favorite Chicago souvenir. Head inside to check out Joan Miro’s Chicago is just one of many world-class sculptures found in the Loop.

A ride on the city’s famous “El” train is a quintessential Chicago experience.

the largest Tiffany glass mosaic dome in the United States. @ 5 min.– 2 hr. (if you want to shop). 111 N. State St. at Randolph St. y 312/7811000. Hours vary seasonally; call ahead. El: Red Line to Washington.

3

Quench your thirst at the classic soda fountain in Macy’s, and add a twist of lemon, cherry, or vanilla flavor to your soft drink. 111 N. State St. y 312/781-1000. $.

E. Balbo Dr.

4 Miro’s C h i c a g o . Originally called The Sun, the Moon and One Star, Joan Miro’s Chicago was unveiled in 1981. This 40-foot-tall sculptural representation of a woman with outstretched arms sits in the Brunswick Plaza on Washington Street, and overlooks the Picasso sculpture at the Daley Center. @ 5 min. On the plaza of 69 W. Washington St. El: Red Line to Washington.

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5 R e l i a n c e B u i l d i n g. Now the Hotel Burnham, this building, with a terra cotta and glass exterior, was one of the world’s first skyscrapers. Stop inside to admire the terrazzo tile floors, white marble wainscoting, and mahogany door and window frames. Room numbers painted on the translucent doors recall the structure’s days as an office building. Today, the Hotel Burnham features eclectic decor and an excellent ground-floor restaurant with a view onto State Street (p 100). @ 15 min. 1 W. Washington St. y 312/782-1111. El: Red Line to Washington.

6 = C h i c a g o P u b l i c L i b ra r y / H a ro l d Wa s h i n g t o n L i b ra r y C e n t e r. This hulking Italian Renaissance building is the world’s largest public library. Named for the city’s first and only African-American mayor, who died of a heart attack in 1987 while still in office, the building fills an entire city block. On the second floor, the Thomas Hughes Children’s Library makes an excellent resting spot for families traveling with kids. @ 30 min. 400 S. State St. y 312/747-4300. www.chipublib.org. Free admission. Mon–Thurs The Chicago Public Library is the largest public library in the world.

Built in 1890, the Reliance Building features a landmark Gothic exterior.

9am–7pm; Fri–Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 1–5pm. Closed holidays. El: Brown or Purple line to Library.

7 ★★★ A r t I n s t i t u t e o f C h i c a g o . Stop in to view the Impressionist collection on the second floor, a highlight of this, Chicago’s grande dame of museums. With 33 paintings by Claude Monet, dancers by Degas, and Seurat’s legendary masterpiece, A Sunday Afternoon on La Grande Jatte, this museum is a must for any art lover. @ 1 hr. See p 38.

8 ★★★ = M i l l e n n i u m Pa r k . When Chicago’s newest showpiece debuted in summer 2004, it won raves for its winning combination of beautiful landscaping, elegant classically inspired architecture, and public entertainment spaces. Today, it’s become a favorite tourist destination, second only to Navy Pier. A tourist rite of passage is having a photo taken in the reflection of “The Bean,” which has become Chicagoans’ unofficial favorite sculpture. And, the spectacular Frank Gehry–designed Jay Pritzker Pavilion is host to the nation’s only free, outdoor, municipally-supported classical music series, the Grant Park Music Festival.

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If the weather is fine, you can make a picnic out of the sandwiches Pa r k and salads served at the G r i l l & C a fe (11 N. Michigan Ave.; y 312/521-7275; $). + The Cro w n F o u n t a i n , and its two towers of glass blocks with a shallow reflecting pool between them, is perfect for kids to splash around in warm weather (late at night, you’ll find revelers doing the same). Faces of Chicagoans are projected through the glass—and their mouths spew water when you least expect it. { The C l o u d G a t e is an elliptical sculpture made of highly polished steel that reflects the nearby skyline, landscape, and lights. For the most mind-bending funhouse view, stand underneath the sculpture. The park’s centerpiece is the

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} J ay P r i t z ke r Pav i l i o n , an outdoor music venue designed by Frank Gehry; massive stainless steel ribbons top the stage. Another Gehry-designed standout, | B P Pe d e s t r i a n B r i d g e , curves and winds its way over Columbus Drive, providing changing views of the cityscape as you walk. Finally, stroll : T h e L u r i e G a r d e n , where 250 varieties of native perennial plants re-create a Midwestern prairie. @ 2 hr. Michigan Ave. from Randolph St. on the north end to Monroe St. on the south, and west to Columbus Dr. y 312/752-1168. www.millenniumpark.org. Free admission. Daily 6am–11pm. El: Blue Line to Washington, Red Line to Lake and Brown, Green, Orange, or Purple line to Randolph.

The Best i n O n e D ay

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12 Fullerton Avenue Bridge 13 Wrigley Field

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n y o u r s e c o n d d ay i n C h i c a g o , t a k e t o t h e w a t e r f o r a b o a t c r u i s e , and gain insight into the people and events that shaped the city’s famous skyline. Stroll the Magnificent Mile, with its glittering array of shops, and finish your day in scenic Lincoln Park, with its charming centerpiece, Lincoln Park Zoo. STA RT: S o u t h e a s t c o r n e r o f t h e M i c h i g a n Av e n u e B r i d g e . B u s : 1 5 1 ( M i c h i g a n Av e . ) t o I l l i n o i s S t re e t .

1 ★★★ C h i c a g o A rchitecture Fo u n d a t i o n ’s A rchitecture R i ver Cruise. You’ll see more than 50 buildings from a unique perspective as you glide along the north and south branches of the Chicago River. Narration is provided by docents, who do a good job of making the cruise enjoyable for all visitors, no matter what their level of architectural knowledge. In addition to pointing out famous buildings—Marina City, the Civic Opera house, the Sears Tower, and Merchandise Mart, to name a few—they approach the sites thematically, explaining, for example, how Chicagoans’ use of the river has changed in the past 2 centuries. If you have very young kids, you may prefer the shorter (and less expensive) tours by Wendella Sightseeing Boats. Kids’ tickets cost $12, and the tours last 1 hour. @ 11⁄2 hr. Southeast corner of Michigan Ave. bridge. Tickets $28 per person weekdays, $30 on weekends and holidays. Daily June– Oct 11am–3pm (weekends only May and Nov). Purchase tickets in advance through Ticketmaster (y 312/902The Michigan Avenue Bridge offers some of the city’s best photo ops.

A cruise along the Chicago River is one of the best ways to see the city’s fabulous architecture.

1500), or avoid the service charge and buy your tickets at the ArchiCenter, 224 S. Michigan Ave. (www. architecture.org), or at the boat launch. Wendella Sightseeing Boats depart from Michigan Ave. bridge (on the northwest side, at the Wrigley Building). y 312/337-1446. www. wendellaboats.com. Tickets $23 adults, $21 seniors, $12 children under 12. Daily Apr–Oct. Bus: 151.

2 ★ M i c h i g a n Ave n u e B r i d g e . Gaze up at the Gothic splendor of the Tribune Tower and the white brilliance of the William J. Wrigley Jr. Building from Chicago’s most famous bridge, one of many that span the Chicago River. Designed to improve transportation and enhance the riverfront, the bridge was completed in 1920, followed by the Wacker Drive

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esplanade (1926). Together, they provided an impressive gateway to North Michigan Avenue and led to its development as one of the city’s premier thoroughfares. Views from every direction are stunning, but for one of the city’s best photo ops, look west down the Chicago River. @ 15 min. El: Green, Purple, Brown, or Orange line to State.

3 Tr i b u n e To w e r. This Gothic design was the result of an international competition to create “the most beautiful office building in the world,” held in 1922 by the Chicago Tribune newspaper. The winning entry, with a crowning tower and flying buttresses, was based on the design of the French cathedral at Rouen. The base of the building is studded with more than 120 stones from famous sites and structures in all 50 states and dozens of foreign countries—from the Parthenon to Bunker Hill. The lobby and gift shop of the Tribune Tower are worthy stops for Cubs fans (the baseball team is owned by the Tribune Company). @ 15 min. 435 N. Michigan Ave. y 312/222-3232. Bus: 151. The Tin Man, one of many Wizard of Oz sculptures inside Oz Park.

The eye-catching Tribune Tower combines Gothic elements with traditional skyscraper design.

4 Puck’s, a cafe operated by Wolfgang Puck of Spago restaurant fame, has seating overlooking the Museum of Contemporary Art’s 1-acre terraced sculpture garden. Mediterranean and Asian influences enliven classic dishes, as exemplified by the three-bean salad with shrimp, lime, and cilantro, and the smoked shrimp pizza with sun-dried tomatoes and leeks. Inside the Museum of Contemporary Art, 220 E. Chicago Ave. (1 block east of Michigan Ave.). y 312/280-2660. www.mcachicago. org. $$. El: Red Line to Chicago.

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5 O z Pa r k . One of Lincoln Park’s most famous residents was L. Frank Baum (1856–1919), the author of The Wonderful Wizard of Oz, who settled in Chicago in 1891. Take a quick stroll through this 13-acre park, created in 1967 in his honor. You’ll find larger-than-life statues of many Wizard-related characters, including, most prominently, The Tin Man, designed by metal sculptor John Kearney. The paths are perfect for walking off your meal. There’s an “Emerald Garden” for strolling, and

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“Dorothy’s Playlot,” a shady, sprawling playground with wooden climbing structures. @ 30 min. 2021 N. Burling St. (at Lincoln Ave.) y 312/ 747-2200. Free admission. Open daily until dusk. El: Brown Line to Armitage.

6 L i n c o l n Pa r k C o n s e r va t o r y. If the weather’s uncooperative, a visit to this conservatory’s climatecontrolled environs can be a real mood-lifter. It’s comprised of four greenhouses—the Palm house, the Fernery, the Tropical house, and the Show house—that offer seasonal displays. Even on the coldest day of winter, the Azalea and Camellia show that begins in late January is sure to put a spring in your step. Outside the front doors of the conservatory is an expansive lawn with a French garden: Photo opportunity! Don’t miss the lovely Bates Fountain on the conservatory’s south side, designed by famous sculptor Augustus Saint-Gaudens. @ 30 min. Fullerton Ave. (at Stockton Dr.). y 312/742-7736. The best way to get to Lincoln Park from the Miracle Mile is to stroll the lakefront from Oak St. Beach to North Ave. Beach, then cross the pedestrian bridge over Lake Shore Dr. and into the park. Free admission. Daily 9am–5pm. Bus: 73, 151, or 156.

7 ★★★ = L i n c o l n Pa r k Z o o . The nation’s oldest zoo, founded in 1868, is also one of the last free zoos in the country. You’ll want to A Siberian tiger; one of the many big cats found at the Lincoln Park Zoo.

The Lincoln Park Conservatory’s indoor gardens are lush even in winter.

meander a while among the landmark Georgian revival buildings and modern structures set amid gently rolling pathways, verdant lawns, and a profusion of flower gardens. The star attraction is the G re a t A p e h o u s e , where you can watch ape families interact. Also worth a stop is the R e g e n s t e i n A f r i c a n J o u rn ey, home to elephants, giraffes, rhinos, and other large mammals. Kids flock to the ever-popular S e a L i o n Po o l , and there’s a P r i t z ke r C h i l d re n ’s Z o o and Fa r m - i n - t h e Z o o , where children are encouraged to touch a variety of small animals under the supervision of zookeepers. T h e Fa r m is a working reproduction of a Midwestern farm, complete with chicken coops and demonstrations of butter churning. Finish off your visit with a ride on the truly lovely E n d a n g e re d S p e c i e s C a ro u s e l . @ 2–3 hr. 2200 N. Cannon Dr. (at Fullerton Pkwy.). y 312/742-2000. www.lpzoo.com. Free admission. Buildings daily 10am–5pm (until 6:30pm Sat–Sun Memorial Day to Labor Day); grounds 9am–6pm (until 7pm Memorial Day to Labor Day and until 5pm Nov 1–May 31). Bus: 151. Inside the Lincoln Park Zoo, the Pa r k P l a c e C a f é food court (near the Lion house; $) is a good option for some quick refreshment.

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For a snack with a view, try the Big Cats Café rooftop eatery, (near the Birds of Prey exhibit; $), which offers muffins, scones, focaccia sandwiches, salads, and flatbreads.

9

0 C h i c a g o G re e n C i t y M a r k e t . Chefs from Chicago’s best restaurants load up their trucks with organic foods sold at this outdoor market, which takes place Wednesday and Saturday mornings along the path between 1750 North Clark St. and Stockton Drive. You can browse the stalls right along with the pros. You might find fresh goat cheese or (in season) freshly picked blueberries; if you’re hungry, you can get a made-to-order Frenchstyle crepe. Live music is also featured. @ 30 min.–1 hr. In Lincoln Park, between 1750 N. Clark St. and Stockton Dr. www.chicagogreencity market.org. May–Oct Wed and Sat 7am–1:30pm. Bus: 151.

! = Pe g g y N o t e b a e r t

Chicagoans flock to the Green City Market in summer for fresh produce.

homes with power sources miles away. @ 1 hr. Fullerton Ave. and Cannon Dr. y 773/755-5100. www.chias. org. Admission $9 adults, $7 seniors and students, $6 kids 3–12, free for kids under 3; free admission Thurs. Mon–Fri 9am–4:30pm; Sat–Sun 10am–5pm. Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25, and Jan 1. Bus: 151.

@ F u l l e r t o n Av e n u e B r i d g e . Take advantage of a wonderful photo opportunity at the bridge that runs over the lagoon, just before you get to Lake Shore Drive. Standing on the south side of Fullerton, you’ll have a great view of the skyline and Lincoln Park (especially at sunset)—it’s the perfect place to take a final snapshot to commemorate your day. @ 5 min. Bus: 151 or 156.

N a t u re M u s e u m . This environmental museum, built into the rise of an ancient sand dune that was once the shore of Lake Michigan, features rooftop-level walkways offering a view of birds and other urban wildlife below. Paths wind through gardens planted with native # ★★★ W r i g l ey F i e l d . Midwestern wildflowers and There’s no better way to create family grasses, and trace the shoreline of lore than a game at Wrigley, where Lincoln Park’s newly restored North your kids (or you) can stuff themPond. The best exhibit is the B u t selves with hot dogs, licorice t e r f l y H av e n , a greenhouse whips, and peanuts and habitat that’s home to begin their careers as about 25 Midwestern future Cubs fans. If you species of butterflies are bringing kids, due to and moths. Another the noise levels and exhibit, C i t y S c i e n c e , general commotion of displays the inner workgetting in and out of the ings of a 3,000-squarestadium, I’d recommend foot, two-story “house,” this only for children where visitors can The butterfly haven at the Peggy ages 5 and older. For view the pipes and more on Wrigley Field, Notebaert Nature Museum is ducts that connect see p 24 and p 130. home to many colorful species.

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n yo u r t h i r d d ay i n C h i c a g o , s t ro l l t h e “ M i c h i g a n Av e n u e C l i f f , ” known for its imposing wall of grand buildings. In warmer months, stop in Grant Park and stand in the refreshing spray of Buckingham Fountain, then head to Museum Campus, a green expanse that comprises one of the most impressive collections of museums in the country. STA RT: C h i c a g o C u l t u ra l C e n t e r, c o r n e r o f S o u t h M i c h ig a n Av e n u e a n d Wa s h i n g t o n S t re e t . E l : R a n d o l p h o r Wa s h i n g t o n / S t a t e El station.

1 ★★ C h i c a g o C u l t u ra l C e n t e r. Built in 1897 as the city’s library, this National Historic Landmark’s basic Beaux Arts exterior doesn’t begin to hint at the building’s sumptuous interior. Inside you’ll find rare marble; fine hardwoods; stained glass; polished brass; and mosaics of Favrile glass, colored stone, and mother-of-pearl inlaid in white marble. The crowning centerpiece is the world’s largest Louis Comfort Tiffany art glass dome, newly renovated in 2008, in Preston Bradley Hall—it’s dazzling. The Cultural Center houses one of the Chicago Office of Tourism’s main visitor centers, which makes it an ideal place to start your day. @ 30 min. 78 E. Washington St. y 312/744-6630. www.cityofchicago. org/exploringchicago. Free admission. Mon–Thurs 10am–7pm; Fri 10am–6pm; Sat 10am–5pm; Sun 11am–5pm. Closed holidays. El: Brown, Green, Orange, or Purple Stop off at the Chicago ArchiCenter for information on guided tours and the city’s architecture.

The exquisite interior and Tiffany Dome of the Chicago Cultural Center.

line to Randolph, or Red Line to Washington/State.

2 ★★★ C h i c a g o A rc h i C e n t e r. The Chicago Architecture Foundation’s shop and tour center is intended to help everyone appreciate the city’s main claim to fame. Exhibits include a scale model of downtown Chicago, profiles of the people and buildings that shaped the city’s look, and a searchable database with pictures and information on many of Chicago’s bestknown skyscrapers. The best gift shop in the city offers architecturefocused books, decorative accessories, and gifts. “Architecture ambassadors” provide information on a wide range of available tours. @ 30 min. 224 S. Michigan Ave. y 312/922-3432. www. architecture.org. Free admission. Exhibits daily 9:30am–4pm; shop and tour desk Mon–Sat 9am– 6:30pm, Sun 9am–6pm. El: Red Line to Jackson.

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language, has been headquartered in Chicago since the mid-1930s. @ 5 min. 310 S. Michigan Ave. y 312/347-7159. El: Red Line to Jackson.

5 T h e F i n e A r t s B u i l d i n g. This 1885 building was originally a showroom for Studebaker carriages. Converted into an arts center in 1898, the building provided offices and studios for the likes of Wizard of Oz author L. Frank Baum and Frank Lloyd Wright. Take a quick walk through the marble-and-wood lobby, and, if you like, ride the vintage elevators to the top floor to view walls of spectacular murals that date from the building’s conversion. @ 30 min. 410 S. Michigan Ave. y 312/427-7602. Free admission. Daily 7am–10pm. El: Brown Line to Library.

6 ★ Auditorium Building and The distinctive Britannica Centre is best known for its pyramidal peak.

3

C o r n e r B a ke r y, a casual restaurant and bakery, offers sweet treats (don’t miss the tart lemon bars dusted with powdered sugar), plus a range of substantial salads and sandwiches (try the ham and Swiss on pretzel bread). 224 S. Michigan Ave. (at Jackson). y 312/ 431-7600. $.

4 B r i t a n n i c a C e n t re . To view this building’s highlight, look up. A part of Michigan Avenue’s distinctive wall of buildings since 1924, Britannica Centre, originally known as the Straus Building and then as the Continental National Insurance Company building, is known for the glass, blue-lighted “beehive” ornament atop its pyramidal peak. The venerable Encyclopaedia Britannica, the oldest continuously published reference work in the English

T h e a t re . Designed and built in 1889 by Louis Sullivan and Dankmar Adler, the Auditorium was an architectural wonder of its time: the heaviest and most massive edifice on earth, the most fireproof building ever constructed, and the tallest Scenic Lake Shore Drive offers marvelous views of Lake Michigan (see p 90).

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8 ★★★ = J o h n G . S h e d d

The Auditorium Building and Theatre features exquisite interior ornamentation.

building in Chicago. Today, the 4,000-seat theater hosts touring Broadway productions. One-hour tours on Mondays allow visitors time to marvel at the gorgeous arched design (lit by thousands of bulbs) that Sullivan created using his trademark ornamentation—in this case, elaborate golden stenciling and gold plaster medallions. @ 30 min. (1 hr. if you take a tour). 50 E. Congress Pkwy. y 312/9222110. www.auditoriumtheatre.org. 1-hr. guided tour Mon 10am and noon (call y 312/431-2389 ext. 0 to make reservations) for $8 per person. El: Brown Line to Library.

A q u a r i u m . The first thing you’ll see as you enter the world’s largest indoor aquarium is the 90,000-gallon tank occupying the Beaux Arts–style central rotunda. The Caribbean Coral Reef exhibit features nurse sharks, barracudas, stingrays, and a hawksbill sea turtle. The next don’tmiss exhibit is Amazon Rising: Seasons of the River, displaying piranhas, birds, sloths, insects, spiders, snakes, caiman lizards, and monkeys. Wild Reef–Sharks at Shedd features 26 interconnected habitats (more than 750,000 gallons of water) that encompass a Philippine coral reef patrolled by sharks and other predators. Another highlight is the 3-million-gallon saltwater O c e an a r i u m , a stunning indoor marine mammal pavilion that re-creates a Pacific Northwest coastal environment. Here, a crew of friendly trainers puts dolphins through their paces during daily scheduled performances. @ 1 hr. 1200 S. Lake Shore Dr. y 312/939-2438.

7 B u c k i n g h a m Fo u n t a i n . Grant Park’s immense baroque centerpiece—the starting point for the famous Route 66 to Los Angeles—is constructed of pink Georgia marble and patterned after the Latona Fountain at Versailles (although Buckingham is twice its size). The fountain, donated to the city of Chicago by philanthropist Kate Buckingham, first opened in 1927. From April through October, the fountain spurts columns of water

Catch the nightly sound and light show at Buckingham Fountain in summer.

The Best i n T h re e D ay s

up to 150 feet in the air every hour on the hour; beginning at 4pm, a whirl of colored lights and music makes for quite a show (the fountain shuts down at 11pm). If you visit in spring, be sure to stroll the adjacent esplanades and their lovely rose gardens. @ 10 min. Inside Grant Park, at Columbus Dr. and Congress Pkwy. www.chicagoparkdistrict.com. Apr– Oct daily 10am–11pm. Bus: 6 or 146.

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W a l ke r ’s Wa r n i n g Though Chicago is a great city to explore on foot, Lake Shore Drive is no place for pedestrians. People have been seriously injured and even killed attempting to dodge the traffic on this busy road. Near Grant Park, cross only in crosswalks at Jackson Boulevard or Randolph, East Monroe, or East Balbo drives, or by using the underpass on the Museum Campus. North of the river, utilize underpasses or bridges at East Ohio Street, Chicago Avenue, Oak Street, and North Avenue.

World’s Columbian Exposition. A wonderful new addition, the Cro w n Fa m i l y P l ay l a b , caters to the young set with hands-on digs for dinosaur bones, a dress-up station where kids can don a coyote costume to trot through a mock-up of the Illinois woodlands, and a science lab, where kids can examine insects in amber, fossils, and animal skulls. The Oceanarium’s Beluga whales at the John G. Shedd Aquarium.

www.sheddaquarium.org. Oceanarium is closed at press time; call or visit the website for updated information. The Total Experience Pass (to the Wild Reef, Amazon Rising, Caribbean Reef, Waters of the World, a pet show and a choice of the 4-D experience) is $18 for adults, $14 seniors and kids 3–11. Free admission to aquarium Mon–Tues Sept–Nov, 1 week in June and 1 week in Oct. See website for more info. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm (until 6pm Memorial Day to Labor Day); Sat–Sun 9am–6pm. Bus: 6 or 146.

9 ★ = Field Museum of N a t u ra l H i s t o r y. Indulge your inner Indiana Jones while exploring this renowned museum’s 9 acres of exhibits. The museum was founded in 1893 to house natural history collections brought to Chicago for the

“Sue,” the famous Tyrannosaurus rex fossil at the Field Museum of Natural History.

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i Life Over Time

China Hall of Gems GRANGER GALLERY

Earth Sciences

ts of Plan orld W the

Moving Earth

D

UPPER LEVEL

Fossil Prep Lab

The Sue Store

The Art Lacquer of Japan

ur osa Din all H

More on Sue

Plants of the World

Elevator

MM

E E N W E ST TRA NC

Information

The Field Museum Store

A

ians t Ind oas

Kid’s Field Trip Store

i

WC

MAIN LEVEL

nd N

Bird Reptiles & Habitats Amphibians Animal Biology

Dining

os a

North American Indians

i

E

MA

Stairs

B

World of Birds Nature Walk Mammals of Asia

Eskim

A LS

NORTH ENTRANCE

SOUTH ENTRANCE

VENDING MACHINES The Siragusa Center

Crown Family PlayLab

G F Food Court

C

Underground Adventure

GROUND FLOOR

Standing proudly at the north side of the grand ? S t a n l ey F i e l d H a l l is the largest, most complete Tyrannosaurus rex fossil ever unearthed. The $8.4-million specimen is named Á ★★ “ S u e ” for the paleontologist who found it in South Dakota in 1990. Head downstairs to ª ★ I n s i d e A n c i e n t E g y p t , a spellbinding exhibit that realistically depicts scenes from Egyptian funeral, religious, and other social practices. £ Trav e l i n g t h e Pa c i f i c re-creates scenes of island life in the South Pacific; there’s even a full-scale model of a Maori meeting house. ¢ A f r i c a is an assemblage of African artifacts and provocative, interactive multimedia presentations. Two other signature highlights: the

taxidermied bodies of ° B u s h m a n (a legendary lowland gorilla from the city’s Lincoln Park Zoo) and the ¤ M a n - Ea t i n g L i o n s o f Ts av o (the pair of male lions who munched nearly 140 British railway workers constructing a bridge in East Africa in 1898). @ 2–3 hr. Roosevelt Rd. and Lake Shore Dr. y 312/922-9410. www.fieldmuseum.org. Admission $14 adults, $11 seniors and students with ID, $9 kids 4–11; free for teachers, armed forces personnel in uniform, and kids 2 and under. Free admission in Feb, plus second Mon in Mar–Dec and a week each in Sept and Oct (see website for info). Daily 9am–5pm; last admission 4pm. Closed Dec 25 and Jan 1. Bus: 6, 10, 12, 130, or 146.

The Best i n T h re e D ay s

Field Museum of Natural History

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style, which is the most magnificent in the city. @ 15 min. 720 S. Michigan Ave. (at Balbo Dr.). y 312/ 922-4400. www.hilton.com. El: Red Line to Harrison/State.

! K i tty O’Shea’s is one of the

The massive Chicago Hilton and Towers has been a fixture in Chicago since 1927.

0 C h i c a g o H i l t o n a n d To w e rs . This massive brick and stone building was the largest hotel in the world when it opened in 1927. It’s worth a stop to gaze at the Grand Stair lobby, done in a classical-rococo

most authentic Irish pubs in town (even though it’s a hotel bar), with imported Irish bartenders and traditional Irish music. Pick up an Irish/American newspaper at the entrance, then relax with a pint in a cozy booth. If you’ve worked up an appetite, the lamb stew, shepherd’s pie, or fish and chips will keep you feeling as if you’ve landed on the Emerald Isle. 720 S. Michigan Ave. y 312/294-6860. $.

•

Ta k i n g Yo u rs e l f O u t t o a B a l l g a m e It’s been a long dry spell: The Cubbies haven’t made a World Series since 1945, and haven’t been World Champs since 1908, but that never deters die-hard Cubs fans, who are perennial optimists. Each April, they show up for opening day at Wrigley Field in what is almost certainly inclement weather, sure that their team’s year has arrived. (Wrigley Field, 1060 W. Addison St.; y 773/404-CUBS; www. cubs.mlb.com; see p 130.) Win or lose, a day at Wrigley is a don’t-miss Chicago experience (and tickets tend to sell out accordingly). From the ivy-covered outfield walls to the hand-operated scoreboard and “W” or “L” flag announcing the outcome of the game to the unfortunates who couldn’t attend, Wrigley Field is a pure slice of Americana. Buy a hot dog and some Cracker Jack, and join in the chorus of “Take Me Out to the Ballgame” during the seventh-inning stretch (since the death of longtime announcer Harry Caray, the crowd is led by a guest singer, often a visiting celebrity). Because Wrigley Field is small, just about every seat is decent. Families, however, might want to avoid the bleacher seats, because fans there can get a little overzealous in their rooting for the home team (and drinking).

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g Kin N.

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The Best S p e c i a l - I n t e re s t To u rs

ury sb

T h e Lo o p : An Architectural Tour W. Hubbard St. W. Hubbard St.

W. Kinzie St.

4

N. Michigan Ave.

N. Wabash Ave.

N. State St.

13

E. Lake St.

11 12

MILLENNIUM PARK

6

N. Dearborn St.

5 N. Clark St.

N. LaSalle St.

W. Lake St.

St.

W. Madison St.

THE E. Monroe Dr.

W. Monroe St.

LOOP St.

E. Adams St.

G R A N TP A R K

W. Jackson Blvd. 8

0

41

94 90

W. Van Buren St.

W. Congress Pkwy.

Wrigley Field

igan

C H I C A G O E. Congress Pkwy.

Post Office

U.S. Cellular Field E. Balbo

55

Ave.

Midway

E. 8th St.

90

8 Chicago Board of Trade 9 Monadnock Block

3 333 W. Wacker Drive

10 Marquette Building

4 The Merchandise Mart

11 Reliance Building (Hotel Burnham) E. E. 11th 11thSt.St. 12 Café Atwood

E. E. 9th 9thSt.St.

13 North Loop Theater District

Previous page: A walk around The Loop is a must for architecture fans.

S.S.Wabash Ave. Wabash Ave. e.

6 City Hall/County Building 7 Rookery Building

41

94

2 Civic Opera Building

5 The James R. Thompson Center

S. Michigan Ave.

S. State St.

S. Dearborn St.

290

S.S.Michigan Ave. Michigan Ave. e.

SOUTH LOOP

1 Sears Tower

S. Federal St.

S. Clark St.

S. Sherman St.

S. Wells St.

S. LaSalle St.

Map area

W. Harrison St.

W. Polk St.

3 mi

9

ch e Mi

Eisenhower Expwy.

W. Adams St. 7

Lak

S. Franklin

Sears 1 Tower

Art Institute of Chicago

10

S. Plymouth Ct.

N. Wacker Dr.

2

S. Wacker Dr.

ch Chicago River South Bran

W. Washington

E. Wacker Pl.

W. Wacker Dr.

W. Randolph St.

S. Canal S. CanalSt.St.

River

N

0.25 km

Chicago River

3

N. N.Canal CanalSt.St.

1/4 mi

0 0

N. Wells St.

anch r e h Br Nortago Riv Chic

Merchandise Mart

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River

r c h i t e c t u r e b u f f s a n d l ay p e o p l e a l i k e w i l l r e v e l i n t h e Lo o p ’s a r ray o f o u t s t a n d i n g l a n d m a r k b u i l d i n g s . The structures found in this area represent a variety of important and influential historical styles, from the rounded arches and thick walls of Richardsonian Romanesque (1870–1900) to the stark simplicity and functionalism of International Style (1932–45). These buildings were the blueprints for many similar structures in North America. STA RT: W a c ke r D r i v e i n f ro n t o f t h e C i v i c O p e ra H o u s e . E l : B ro w n L i n e t o W ashington Station.

Pl.

N. Michigan Ave.

E. Lake St.

oe Dr.

Art Institute of Chicago

ms St.

A N TP A R K

The immense Civic Opera Building, home to the Lyric Opera of Chicago.

S. Michigan Ave.

O ress y.

r do

1 S e a rs To w e r. This 110-story building was the tallest building in the world when it opened in 1973, but has since been eclipsed by the Burj Dubai in Dubai. For what it’s worth, the Sears Tower still holds the record in the category of “tallest skyscraper measured to the top of the antenna.” It’s still a marvel of engineering, but nowadays it’s just a really, really tall office building that isn’t even home to Sears, Roebuck & Company anymore (they moved out in 1992). The Skydeck on the 103rd floor does offer exceptional views (on a clear day, visibility extends up to 50 miles/80.5km), but the expensive elevator ride to the top is a

t.

The Sears Tower, the tallest building in North America.

horror for anyone with claustrophobic tendencies, and the amount of time you have to wait in the sluggish lines to get to the top is better spent elsewhere. My recommendation for this overrated tourist magnet: Take a quick look at the building and move on. @ 5 min. 233 S. Wacker Dr. (enter on Jackson Blvd.). y 312/875-9696. www.the-skydeck.com. Admission $13 adults, $9.50 kids 3–11. May–Sept daily 10am–10pm; Oct–Apr daily 10am–8pm. El: Brown, Purple, or Orange line to Quincy.

2 ★ C i v i c O p e ra B u i l d i n g.

. St.

S.S.Michigan Ave. Michigan Ave.

. St.

Fronting the broad roadway of Wacker Drive (named after Charles Wacker, a civic-minded brewer and a director of the World’s Columbian Exposition of 1893), this Art Deco/ French Renaissance building was completed in 1929. Utility magnate Samuel Insull, the president of the

T h e Lo o p

A

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Chicago Civic Opera Association in the ‘20s, installed a 3,500-seat opera house and a 900-seat theater in this 45-story office building so the property’s commercial rents would subsidize the arts. The Grand Foyer of the opera house, with its 40-foot-high (12m) ceiling and gold leaf–topped marble columns, is worth a peek when the building is open. The building is home to the Lyric Opera of Chicago (p 127); the season runs from late September to March. @ 5 min. 20 N. Wacker Dr. y 312/ 332-2244. www.lyricopera.org. El: Brown Line to Washington.

3 3 3 3 W. Wa c ke r D r i ve . The green-hued facade of this 36-story building reflects the Chicago River like a massive looking glass. The post-modern structure was designed to blend with its surroundings, and the curved exterior artfully echoes the curve in the river. Indeed, the best way to view this building is from the river (you’ll be able to experience this on an architectural river tour—see p 14, 1). Designed by Kohn Pedersen Fox in 1983, the building was squeezed onto a triangular lot that was previously thought suitable only for a parking lot. Another good vantage point for viewing the edifice is from the Franklin Street Bridge. @ 5 min. The Merchandise Mart is the world’s largest commercial building.

The reflective facade of 333 W. Wacker Dr.

333 W. Wacker Dr. (at Lake St.). El: Brown, Purple, or Orange line to Washington.

4 T h e M e rc h a n d i s e M a r t . The world’s largest commercial building (it’s second in size only to the Pentagon) was built by Marshall Field as a wholesale emporium and completed in 1931. The design elements are discreetly Art Deco. If you view the building from across the river, you’ll see a line of pillars upon which rest oversize busts of the icons of American merchandising, including Marshall Field, Edward A. Filene, Frank Winfield Woolworth, Julius Rosenwald (Sears), and Aaron Montgomery Ward. Today the Mart serves as a showcase for dealers in furnishings, and most of the interior is open to dealers only. The public, however, can explore the lobby and ground floor, which features Luxe Home, an eye-popping array of high-end home decorating shops, including Christopher Peacock’s kitchen design showroom. @ 15 min. Wells and Kinzie sts. www.merchandisemart.com. El: Brown Line to Merchandise Mart.

5 The James R. Thompson C e n t e r. Chicagoans still refer to this cascading glass-and-steel building— the work of celebrated contemporary architect Helmut Jahn—by its original name, the State of Illinois Building. That’s fitting, as the 16-story structure houses the Chicago branches of the state government. The glass walls that enclose the

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T h e Lo o p

offices are said to be a symbolic reference to “open government.” For spectacular views, ride the glass elevator to the top—not a pleasant experience for anyone with a fear of heights. The Illinois Bureau of Tourism operates an information desk near the main entrance. @ 10 min. 100 W. Randolph St. (at LaSalle St.). y 312/814-9600. Tourism Information Desk open Mon–Fri 8:30am– 4:30pm. El: Brown Line to Clark/Lake.

6 C i t y H a l l / C o u n t y B u i l d i n g. This landmark Classical Revival building, dating back to 1911, is composed of two sections: City Hall fronts LaSalle Street on the western side, and The County Building, the older and more classically inspired edifice, faces Clark Street on the east. The county section’s exterior, with its 75-foot (23m) Corinthian columns, is the more notable of the two, designed in part by one of Chicago’s legendary architectural firms, Holabird & Roche. The public meetings of the volatile Chicago City Council, held in the council chambers of City Hall, are worth a visit. Call ahead to find out when the council is in session. @ 10 min. Washington, LaSalle, Randolph, and Clark sts. The Rookery Building’s ornate spiral staircase was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright.

Decorative exterior detail on the edifice of the City Hall/County Building.

y 312/744-6871. Free admission; open when City Council is in session. El: Brown Line to Washington.

7 ★★★ R o o ke r y B u i l d i n g. This relic of Old Chicago, completed in 1888, was named for a demolished city hall building that once stood on this site—the roost of many pigeons and politicians. The rough granite base and turrets show the influence of the heavy Romanesque style of H. H. Richardson. Venetian and Moorish influences are evident on the exterior. I wholly recommend seeing the open interior court (designed by Frank Lloyd Wright) that rises the full height of the landmark building’s 11 stories. The ornately decorated space was constructed from iron, copper, marble, glass, and terra cotta. @ 15 min. 209 S. LaSalle St. El: Brown Line to Quincy.

8 ★ C h i c a g o B o a r d o f Tra d e . This streamlined Art Deco building, one of the best examples of that style in the city, opened in 1930. It houses the raucous economic free-for-all that is the world’s largest commodities exchange, where corn, wheat, and other futures contracts are traded. Along the landmark building’s rear wall, a postmodern addition by Helmut Jahn offers a repetition of the pyramid-shaped roof. The statue of the Roman

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! ★★★ goddess Reliance Ceres on the Building top of the 45(Hotel Burnfloor struch a m ) . This proture strikes a quirky architotype of the tectural modern skynote—she was left The Monadnock Block is notable for scraper was made its continuity of style, even though possible by the faceless because its buildings were constructed using development of the designers figtwo very different methods. ured nobody high-speed elevawould get close tors and steel framenough to see her features. Due to ing. The terra cotta and glass security restrictions, the public is facade gives the 1895 building a not permitted inside the building. modern appearance. Its window design—a large central pane of @ 5 min. 141 W. Jackson Blvd. glass flanked by two smaller, douy 312/435-3590. www.cbot.com. El: Blue Line to Jackson/Dearborn. ble-hung windows for ventilation— eventually became known as the 9 ★ M o n a d n o c k B l o c k . This Chicago Window. It’s now home to significant block actually consists of the Hotel Burnham (named for the two buildings, built 2 years apart building’s famous architect, Daniel using two very different construction Burnham). Fans of architectural methods. M o n a d n o c k I , on the design should take the elevator to northern end, was built by Burnham the splendid upper floors (those and Root between 1889 and 1891, above the eighth floor are original). with deeply recessed windows at @ 20 min. 1 W. Washington St. (at street level, encased by walls up to State St.). y 312/782-1111. www. 8 feet (2.5m) thick. It was the last burnhamhotel.com. El: Red Line to skyscraper in the United States to Washington. use this method of construction. M o n a d n o c k I I , built by Holabird & Roche in 1893, is one of the counIdeal for a pick-me-up, the eclectic try’s first steel-framed buildings, but ★★★ C a f é At wo o d serves is noteworthy in that it maintains a American comfort food. The grilled continuity of style with Monadnock I. flatbread with caramelized onions @ 10 min. 53 W. Jackson Blvd. and wild mushrooms is a standout. El: Blue Line to Jackson/Dearborn. When the weather is fine, eat in the sidewalk seating area and watch the 0 ★ M a rq u e t t e B u i l d i n g. parade of passers-by. In the Hotel Named for Jacques Marquette, a Burnham (p 100). y 312/368-1900. French Jesuit explorer who was one www.atwoodcafe.com. $$. of the first Europeans to record the

@

existence of the area now known as Chicago, this 1895 building was one of the country’s first commercial skyscrapers. The marble lobby, which is worth seeing, commemorates the spirit of exploration with a series of explorer-themed relief sculptures and Tiffany windows. @ 10 min. 140 S. Dearborn St. El: Blue Line to Jackson/Dearborn.

# ★ N o r t h Lo o p T h e a t e r D i s t r i c t . This row of renovated historic theaters along Randolph Street was a long-time dream of city planners, and on this short tour, you’ll see why: Their colorful, glitzy facades and over-the-top decor give each a unique character.

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E W. Lower Wacker Dr. N. Garvey Ct.

W. Haddock Pl.

E. Lake St.

Macy’s

W. Washington St. W. Calhoun Pl. 0 0

1/8 mile

N

100 meters

A

W. Madison St. E. Madison St.

Cadillac The Versailles-inspired Pa l a c e T h e a t re is a former movie palace that now hosts touring musicals, dance performances, and concerts. Another former movie palace, the specFo r d tacular C e n t e r fo r t h e Pe r fo r m i n g A r t s O r i e n t a l T h e a t re, opened in 1926 and was restored in the 1980s to its original over-thetop Indian-inspired decor; it’s worth seeing, no matter what’s playing on The landmark Chicago Theatre is the stage. Marked the oldest Beaux by a nostalgic Arts building in orange-lettered the city. marquee, the landC h i c a g o T h e a t re was once mark the crown jewel of the movie theater

B

C

MILLENNIUM PARK

Daley Civic Center

N. Garfield St.

N. State St.

St.

Chicago City Hall

W. Court Pl.

W. Couch Pl. E. Benton Pl. D C B E E. Randolph St. W. Randolph St.

N. Michigan Ave.

Chicago Title

N. Wabash Ave.

A

N. La Salle

James R. Thompson Center

N. Clark St.

W. Lake St.

E. Haddock Pl.

N. Upper Michigan Ave.

Ri v e r

Chicago W. Upper Wacker Dr.

. Dr er k ac W er w o .L

T h e Lo o p

North Loop Theater District

empire of Balaban & Katz. It’s the oldest Beaux Arts building in the city. The 3,800-seat hall opened in 1928 and was restored in 1986 as a showplace for Broadway musicals, concerts, and dramas. All three theaters use a number run by Broadway in Chicago (y 312/977 1700). Home of the city’s oldest resident theater G o o d m a n T h e a t re company, the opened in 2000, incorporating the landmark neo-Georgian and Palladian facades of the old Harris and Selwyn theaters. The facility includes 850and 400-seat theaters (y 312/443 -3800; www.goodman-theatre.org). Pe t t e r i n o ’s (150 The large bar at N. Dearborn St.; y 312/422-0150; $$), once frequented by Sinatra and Bogart, is ideal for a quick bite. Try the “shrimp de jonghe” appetizer, a Chicago original featuring six shrimp coated in garlicky bread crumbs. @ 15 min. El: Red Line to Randolph.

D

E

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M a g M i l e : An Architectural Tour E. Bellevue Pl.

W. Huron St.

E. Huron St.

N. Rush St.

Chicago Place

W. Erie St.

E. Erie St.

W. Ontario St.

E. Ontario St.

W. Kinzie St.

N. Michigan Ave.

Ave. N. Wabash

N. State St.

Wrigley Building Chi

Map area 290

U.S. Cellular Field

10

cago

Pl.

VILLE Wrigley Field

C H I C ATo G Navy O Pier

11

W. Hubbard St.

RIVER NORTH

94 90

E. Grand Ave. Westfield North Bridge E. Illinois St.

55

Midway

River

1 The Drake Hotel

7 Women's Athletic Club

2 Palmolive Building

8 Medinah Temple

3 Fourth Presbyterian Church 4 L'Appetito 5 John Hancock Center 6 Chicago Water Tower and Pumping Station

3 mi

igan

N. Dearborn St.

8 E. Ohio St.

0

S41T R E E T E R -

ch e Mi

W. Illinois St.

7

Lak

M

Museum of Contemporary Art

N. Fairbanks Ct.

E. Superior St.

N. DeWitt

6 Water Tower Place E. Pearson St. Old Water Tower E. Chicago Ave.

Pl.

Dr.

W. Superior St.

GRAND

5

Co l u mb u s

N. Michigan Ave.

4

N. St. Clair St.

M

9

E. Delaware

.

CHICAGO

2

E. Chestnut St.

t sh S

N. Dearborn St.

W. Chestnut St.

N. Wabash Ave.

3

1

MAGNIFICENT MILE

N. State St.

E. Walton St. 900 North Michigan Shops

eS h

r. eD or

Washington Square Park

E. Oak St.

N. La k

an

N

100 meters

0

Lake M ic h ig

41

Mies van der Rohe Way

1/10 mile

0

u N. R

The Best S p e c i a l - I n t e re s t To u rs

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9 Tree Studios 10 William Wrigley Jr. Building 11 Billy Goat Tavern

90

41

94 E. North

Water St.

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Lake

Sh

r. eD or

a n y o f t h e s i g n a t u re b u i l d i n g s C h i c a g o i s f a m o u s f o r a re f o u n d a l o n g t h e s t re t c h o f M i c h i g a n Av e n u e k n ow n a s t h e M a g n i f i c e n t M i l e , and hold a special place in the hearts of locals. From private clubs to posh condominiums and historic churches, this entire area rose from the ashes after the Great Fire of 1871. It is today one of the most architecturally significant avenues in the country. STA RT: C h i c a g o / S t a t e E l S t a t i o n o r B u s 1 5 1 ( M i c h i g a n

Pl.

A v e . ) t o Wa l t o n S t re e t .

N. DeWitt

2 ★ Pa l m o l i ve B u i l d i n g. This “monument to cleanliness” was built in 1929 for Colgate–Palmolive, the world’s leading soap manufacturer, but was known as the Playboy Building from 1965 to 1989, when it housed the famous skin mag (whose headquarters is now located at 680 N. Lake Shore Dr.). The picturesque Art Deco landmark was Chicago’s first commercial skyscraper built outside the Loop. It has since been redeveloped and now houses luxury condos. @ 5 min. 919 N. Michigan Ave. www.palmolivebuilding.com. El: Red Line to Chicago/State.

N. Fairbanks Ct.

of rary

3 ★★★ F o u r t h P re s by t e r i a n The Drake’s Palm Court is one of the city’s best spots for afternoon tea.

O

1 ★★ The Dra ke Hotel. Located at the transition point between the Gold Coast and Downtown Chicago, this landmark 13-story building was constructed in 1920 of Bedford limestone in a design inspired by the Italian palazzos of the late Renaissance. You can stroll through the ornate lobby or stop in for a cuppa at the serene Palm Court, one of the city’s top spots for afternoon tea ($25 per person). @ 20 min. 140 E. Walton St. www.the drakehotel.com. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. See p 137.

C h u rc h . This church, built in 1914, was the creation of Ralph Adams Cram—America’s leading Gothic Revival architect, best known for New York’s Cathedral of St. John the Divine—and parishioner Howard Van Doren Shaw (a prominent architect in his own right). The church is an amalgam of English and French Gothic styles, while the parish buildings are Tudor in form. The ornate sanctuary is generally open during the day and sometimes hosts concerts (signs outside will alert you to the latest offering, or you can check the website). The courtyard, known as the “garth” to A stained glass window at the ornate Fourth Presbyterian Church.

Mag Mile

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Presbyterians, is a charming photo spot. @ 15 min. 866 N. Michigan Ave. (at Delaware St.). www.fourth church.org. El: Red Line to Chicago/ State. I recommend drinks and snacks at ★ L’ A p p e t i t o , on the lower level of the John Hancock Center. This family-owned Italian deli is known for its vast array of freshly baked Italian cookies. 875 N. Michigan Ave., plaza level. y 312/3370691. $.

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5 ★★★ J o h n H a n c o c k C e n t e r. The first giant on the Chicago skyline was erected in 1969 and featured several structural innovations, including crisscross steel framing a tapering form that creates an illusion of super proportions, making the building look larger than it really is. The Hancock Observatory on the 94th floor offers spectacular views and is open to the public, as is a decent bar and restaurant duplex between the 95th and 96th floors. @ 1 hr., if you visit the observatory. 875 N. Michigan Ave. y 312/751-3681. Admission (to observatory) $15 adults, $13 seniors, $9 kids. Daily 9am–11pm. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. The John Hancock Center is notable for its crisscross steel framing.

The castellated Chicago Water Tower was the inspiration for White Castle’s famous logo.

6 ★ C h i c a g o Wa t e r Tow e r a n d P u m p i n g S t a t i o n . Built in a castellated Gothic style that was wildly popular in the 1860s, these two National Historic Landmarks, which sit across from each other on Michigan Avenue (the Pumping Station on the east side, the Water Tower on the west), were the only ones in the area to survive the Great Fire of 1871. Why the duo escaped unscathed when virtually every other building in the vicinity was wiped out remains a mystery. Made of a distinct yellowtinted Illinois limestone, the buildings now house a city art gallery (in the Water Tower), the Lookingglass Theatre Company (p 129), and a visitor center (in the old Pumping Station). @ 30 min. Michigan Ave. at Chicago Ave. Visitor center open daily 7:30am–7pm, except Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. El: Red Line to Chicago/State.

7 ★ W o m e n ’s At h l e t i c C l u b . Modeled on elegant Parisian

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The Queen Anne–style buildings feature retail stores on the street level and artists’ studios upstairs (the latter aren’t open to the public).

@ 5 min. 626 N. Michigan Ave. El:

0 ★★★ William Wrigley Jr.

Red Line to Grand.

8 ★★ Medinah Temple. Built in 1912, this Moorish-style palace was the regional headquarters of the Shriners and site of their annual circus until 1998. The building, one of the finest examples of the Islamic Revival style in the country, nearly fell into ruin before it was declared a historic landmark and restored as a Bloomingdale’s furniture store.

@ 5 min. 600 N. Wabash Ave. El: Red Line to Grand. 9 Tree Studios. To encourage visiting artists working on the 1893 Columbian Exposition to stay in Chicago, this row of cottagelike buildings—the oldest artist studios in the country—was built in 1894. This sculpture, by Pablo Picasso, dominates the Daley Plaza.

@ 5 min. 601–623 N. State St. El: Red Line to Grand. Building. The Wrigley family, of chewing-gum fame, owns and operates this building (actually, two towers set side by side and connected via skywalks), which was erected between 1919 and 1924. Its white, terra cotta cladding (more than 250,000 tiles worth) glitters in the sunlight and reflects the water of the nearby river. Six shades of white, darkest at the base and lightening up to the roofline, distinguish the exterior tiles. The shading is especially beautiful when the building is illuminated after dark. Another highlight is the south tower’s immense, four-faced clock, which was inspired by the Giralda Tower in Seville, Spain.

@ 15 min. 400 and 410 N. Michigan Ave. www.wrigley.com/about_us/the_ wrigley_building.do. El: Red Line to Grand.

Look for a staircase from the Michigan Avenue sidewalk that descends to the street below. Here you’ll find ★ Billy Goat a tap room, the Tavern, immortalized by John Belushi, who portrayed a cranky Greek short-order cook on Saturday Night Live (“cheezborger, cheezborger, no Coke, Pepsi”). Yes, you can still get a darned good cheeseburger here, though the quirky atmosphere is the best part of the experience. This local institution is especially popular with journalists (check out the wall honoring such famous columnists as Roger Ebert and the late, great Mike Royko). 430

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N. Michigan Ave. y 312/222-1525. $. El: Red Line to Grand.

Mag Mile

buildings, this 1928 creation of Philip B. Maher (1894–1981) is marked by French Second Empire influences. The nine-story structure houses a private club and the oldest women’s athletic facility in the United States.

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N av y P i e r Lake Michigan 1

Family Pavilion IMAX Theater

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h i c a g o ’s n u m b e r- o n e t o u r i s t a t t ra c t i o n , this 3,000-foot-long (900m) pier was built during World War I and has served as a ballroom, a training center for navy pilots during World War II, and a satellite campus of the University of Illinois. It’s hugely popular with families, as it combines a carnival, food court, and boat dock. The pier is a fun place to stroll (if you don’t mind crowds), though the commercialism of the place might be too much for some. STA RT: R e d L i n e t o G ra n d / S t a t e E l S t a t i o n , t h e n N av y P i e r ’s f re e t ro l l ey b u s ; o r t a ke Bus 29, 56, 65, or 66.

N av y P i e r T i p Unless otherwise noted, all the attractions in this section are open Sunday through Thursday from 10am to 10pm, and Friday through Saturday from 10am to midnight. For more information on the Pier’s many dining, shopping, and sightseeing opportunities, head online to w w w. n av y p i e r. c o m.

1 ★★★ = O l i ve Pa r k . Roam the most scenic sliver of parkland in the city. Fronted by a small beach, Olive Park is beloved by adults for its lovely city and lake vistas, and by kids, who like to point out the various boats that ply the waters of our Great Lake. @ 30 min. Just north and west of Navy Pier, 600 N. Michigan Ave. y 312/742-PLAY (Chicago Park District).

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2 ★★ = Chicago Childre n ’s M u s e u m . This three-story museum is one of Chicago’s most popular cultural attractions. It has areas designed especially for preschoolers as well as for children up to age 10. Several permanent exhibits allow kids a maximum of hands-on fun, and creative temporary exhibitions are always on tap as well. Don’t miss D i n o s a u r E x p e d i t i o n , which re-creates an expedition to the Sahara, allowing kids to conduct scientific research and dig for the bones of a Saharan dinosaur. W a t e r Way s allows visitors to learn about the uses and benefits of water resources by constructing fountains and teaming up with others to blast a stream of water 50 feet (15m) in the air. Finally, a trilevel S c h o o n e r lets kids climb from the crow’s nest to the gangplank. @ 2 hr. On Navy Pier, 700 E. Grand Ave. y 312/527-1000. www.chi childrensmuseum.org. Admission $9 adults and kids, $8 seniors; free admission Thurs 5–8pm. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm (Thurs until 8pm.)

3 Cr ystal Gardens. Rest your feet and soak up the tropical atmosphere in this relatively quiet six-story glass atrium, home to 70 full-size palm trees, dancing fountains, and other flora. @ 10 min. Free admission.

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4 ★★ F e r r i s W h e e l . The pier’s 15-story model is a replica of One of the colorful displays at the Smith Museum of Stained Glass Windows.

The 15-story Ferris wheel at Navy Pier.

the world’s first, which debuted at Chicago’s 1893 World’s Fair. Hop aboard this kid-magnet for fabulous views of the city and lakefront. @ 10 min. $5 per ride.

5 ★ = C a ro u s e l . This colorful work of art features 36 hand-painted animals, fashioned in a variety of historical styles. The running boards depict scenes from Navy Pier’s history. Young kids will be charmed; so will you. @ 10 min., though lines can build up on busy days. $3 per ride.

6 ★ Smith Museum of S t a i n e d G l a s s W i n d ow s . This remarkable installation of 150 colorful stained-glass windows (the only museum of its kind in the U.S.), set in illuminated display cases, will wow even a jaded visitor. The artists represented include Frank Lloyd Wright, Louis Sullivan, and Louis Comfort Tiffany. @ 30 min. y 312/ 595-5024. Free admission.

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Grab lunch or a snack at J o e’s B e - B o p C a f é & J a z z E m p or i u m , a casual Southern-style barbecue restaurant with a full kids’ menu and a lively New Orleans– style atmosphere with a spicy jambalaya to match. y 312/595-5299. www.joesbebop.com. $$.

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1 Impressionist Collection 2 Galleries of Modern Art FOR ACCESS BETWEEN BUILDINGS, GO UP TO FIRST LEVEL.

3 The European Decorative Arts Collection 4 Arthur Rubloff Collection of Paperweights 5 Thorne Miniature Rooms 6 Kraft Education Center 7 The Café 8 Original Trading Floor of the Old Chicago Stock Exchange

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h i c a g o ’s p r i d e a n d j oy i s a wa r m , we l c o m i n g m u s e u m that’s surprisingly unstuffy (during the holidays, the famous lion sculptures that guard its entrance sport wreaths around their necks). Founded in 1879 as the Chicago Academy of Fine Arts, the institute contains one of the world’s great collections (more than 5,000 years’ worth) of antiquities, paintings, and sculpture. Its current Beaux Arts home was constructed as a conference venue for the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition. In May 2009, the Art Institute will open its Modern Wing, a 264,000-square-foot (23,760-sq.-m) addition, the largest in the museum’s history. A pedestrian bridge that leads from Millennium Park to the addition will also open in May 2009. STA RT: M o n ro e / S t a t e o r J a c k s o n / S t a t e E l s t a t i o n s .

through Willem de Kooning, Jackson Pollock, and Andy Warhol. Grant Wood’s iconic American Gothic and Edward Hopper’s Nighthawks are two very famous pieces that elicit double-takes from many visitors. René Magritte’s thought-provoking Time Transfixed is another highlight. @ 45 min. Second floor.

3 ★★ T h e E u ro p e a n D e c o ra Vincent van Gogh’s Bedroom at Arles.

t i ve A r t s C o l l e c t i o n . This extensive collection includes 25,000 objects (dating from A.D. 1100 to the

1 ★★★ I m p re s s i o n i s t C o l l e c-

Grant Wood’s famous American Gothic.

t i o n . This is one of the more renowned, and therefore, highly trafficked, areas of the museum. It includes one of the world’s largest collections of Monet paintings (the museum’s Arrival of the Normandy Train, Gare Saint-Lazare is a rare urban scene by the painter). Other artists represented include Renoir, van Gogh, Manet, and Degas. Among the many treasures here is Seurat’s pointillist masterpiece Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte. @ 45 min. Second floor.

2 ★★★ G a l l e r i e s o f M o d e r n A r t . One of the world’s greatest collections of modern art (more than 1,000 works). Items include paintings, sculpture, and mixedmedia works from Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse, and Salvador Dalí

A r t Institute of Chicago

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German sitting room (1815–1850) from the Thorne Miniature Rooms. Courtesy the Art Institute of Chicago ©.

present day), with special strengths in ceramics, glass, silver, and furniture. Highlights include a 1903 Viennese A r t N o u ve a u c a s e c l o c k (note the metal bas-relief work); the 18th-century R o c o c o Tre d e g a r C u p by Paul Lamerie, the most famous English silversmith of his day; an Oriental-themed 17th-century M e i s s e n p o rc e l a i n c e n t e r p i e c e ; and the Lo n d o n d e r r y Va s e , a Sèvres porcelain masterpiece (and one of the finest examples of Empire style in the world) that was presented in 1814 to the Marquess of Londonderry by Louis XVIII. @ 20 min. Lower level.

4 ★ A r thur Rubloff Collection o f Pa p e r we i g h t s . Don’t miss this quirky collection, donated to the museum by Chicago real estate magnate Arthur Rubloff (1902–1983) in 1978. You’ll find more than 1,500 of these charming and useful objects (most made of multi-colored glass), which became popular in the mid–19th century, when the establishment of a mail service made letter-writing, and letter-writing accessories, highly fashionable. @ 15 min. Lower level.

5 ★★★ = T h o r n e M i n i a t u re R o o m s . Particularly entrancing to children and dollhouse fanatics, this must-see gallery

features 68 miniature rooms (the scale ranges from about 1 in./2.5cm to 1 ft./30cm) designed from 1937 to 1940 by Narcissa Ward Thorne, a miniaturist and the daughter-in-law of the founder of Montgomery Ward and Company. Each room is filled with tiny reproductions of furnished interiors from periods in European and American history. Styles run the gamut from the medieval 1300s to the modern 1930s. Especially noteworthy are the Louis XVI salon (inspired by Versailles’s Petit Trianon) and the Georgian English Drawing Room (the keys on that tiny harpsichord actually move). The level of detail and masterful craftsmanship is extraordinary. @ 20 min. Lower level.

A r t Institute Tips Some tips for avoiding the rush hour: Many people don’t realize the museum is open on Monday; keep this secret to yourself, and visit when the galleries are relatively subdued. Also, many visitors aren’t aware that the museum stays open late on Thursdays, so consider stopping by after an early dinner.

6 = K ra f t E d u c a t i o n C e n t e r. Adjacent to the Thorne Miniature Rooms and under the Institute’s Grand Staircase, this center offers special exhibits and games for kids. It also features numerous scheduled activities, which might include storytelling, puppet making, and poster drawing. All family programs are included in your admission fee. @ 30 min. Lower level. A paperweight from the Rubloff Collection. Courtesy the Art Institute of Chicago ©.

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A r t Institute of Chicago

Set inside an airy dining room, T h e C a f é offers self-service dining that’s a step above a typical museum’s cafeteria in both quality and atmosphere. The menu features fresh fish, sandwiches, pizzas, Caesar salad, and a dessert station. In warm weather, take your meal outside to the seating area in McKinlock Court, a picturesque courtyard. Lower level. $.

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8 ★ O r i g i n a l Tra d i n g F l o o r o f the Old Chicago Stock E xc h a n g e . This room, originally built between 1893 and 1894, was salvaged and then reconstructed here when the Stock Exchange building was demolished in 1972. The room’s elaborate stenciled decorations, molded plaster capitals, and art glass illustrate the work of Dankmar Adler and Louis Sullivan, two of Chicago’s most important early architects. @ 15 min. First level.

9 T h e G re a t H a l l o f E u ro p e a n A r m s a n d A r m o r. At press time, it was uncertain where this exhibit would be located in the newly

One of the famous lion statues guarding the entrance to the Art Institute.

expanded museum, but it will be displayed in some form. The museum possesses 1,500 pieces of armor, one of the largest assemblages of its kind in North America. Most items are European and date from the 15th to the 19th centuries. Displays feature horse equipment, full and partial suits of armor, swords, daggers, and maces. There are also examples of armor from the Middle East and the Americas. @ 30 min.

P ra c t i c a l M a t t e rs The Art Institute of Chicago (y 312/443-3600; www.artic.edu) is located at 111 S. Michigan Ave. (at Adams St.). Take Bus 3, 4, 60, 145, 147, or 151 to Michigan Avenue and Jackson Street or the Red Line El to the Jackson/State or Monroe/State stations. Suggested admission is $12 for adults and $7 for seniors, children, and students with ID. Children 11 and under are free. There’s an additional cost for special exhibitions. Admission is free on Thursday and Friday from 5 to 9pm. The museum is open Monday and Wednesday 10:30am to 5pm, Tuesday and Thursday 10:30am to 8pm (with free admission from 5 to 8pm on Thursday), and Friday, Saturday, and Sunday from 10am to 5pm. It’s closed on Thanksgiving, December 25, and January 1.

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Museum of S c i e n c e & I n d u s t r y Reusable City

Regenstein Hall of Chemistry

Take Flight

Grainger Hall of Basic Science

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AIDS: The War Within

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1 U-505 2 The Coal Mine 3 Finnigan's Ice Cream Parlor

BALCO NY 3 Yesterday’s Main Street

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The Great Train Story Genetics: Decoding Life

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u i l t a s t h e o n l y p e r m a n e n t s t r u c t u re fo r t h e 1 8 9 3 Wo r l d C o l u m b i a n E x p o s i t i o n , the classical-style Palace of Fine Arts building is now home to 14 acres (5.6 hectares) of scientific wonders. Generations of children recount fond memories of this world-famous museum—the granddaddy of interactive museums, with some 2,000 exhibits. The good news: It still thrills kids (and adults, too). STA RT: B u s 6 o r M e t ra E l e c t r i c t ra i n t o 5 7 t h S t re e t a n d La ke Pa r k Av e n u e .

1 ★★★ U-505. The highlight of this 35,000-square-foot (3,252-sq.-m) exhibit is a German submarine (known as a U-boat) that sank a number of Allied ships during World War II before it was captured by the U.S. Navy in 1944. It was installed here in 1954 and remains the only German submarine on display in North America. The exhibit offers a fascinating look at the claustrophobic reality of underwater naval life. You have to pay $5 extra for a guided tour of the sub’s interior, but this is still worth your time even if you don’t go inside the actual submarine; there are interesting photos and exhibits that surround the sub. @ 30 min. To avoid serious crowds, come at museum opening. Ground floor. Optional 15-min. guided tours cost $5. Auditorium

2 ★★ The Coal Mine. This exhibit, which dates back to 1934, now incorporates modern mining techniques—but the best part is a simulated trip down into a dark, mysterious re-created mine that’s very lifelike (and not for the claustrophobic). Interactive stations focus on energy and conservation. A stop here is worth the inevitable theme park–like lines you’ll face. @ 30 min. First floor.

3 F i n n i g a n ’s Ice Cre a m Par l o r is modeled on a real Hyde Park icecream shop that opened in 1917. Soak up the turn-of-the-20th-century atmosphere and indulge in awesome sundaes and shakes. For heartier appetites, there are sandwiches and chips, and great coffee. Main floor, near the Coal Mine. $.

Various transportation displays at the Museum of Science and Industry.

4 ★ = A l l A b o a r d t h e S i l ve r S t re a k . The Burlington Pioneer Zephyr—the world’s first streamlined, diesel-electric train—was built in the 1930s and revolutionized train design. The 197-foot (60m) train, nicknamed the Silver Streak, is installed (along with a simulated train station) in the museum’s threestory underground parking garage. This is a must for train buffs. @ 15 min. Great Hall.

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5 Ta ke F l i g h t . This aviationthemed exhibit features a full-size Boeing 727 airplane that revs up its engines and replays voice recordings from a San Francisco–Chicago flight periodically throughout the day. Visitors can explore the interior and try some of the controls. @ 15 min. Balcony. 6 ★★ = C o l l e e n M o o re’s Fa i r y C a s t l e . Colleen Moore, a

Museum of S c i e n c e & I n d u s t r y

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popular silent film actress and miniatures fan, set out in 1928 to create her version of a dream dollhouse. It took more than 7 years and 700 craftsmen to create this lavishly decorated miniature palace, filled with priceless treasures. The rooms, filled with more than 2,000 miniatures, sport fairy-tale motifs and are incredibly detailed: King Arthur’s Round Table in the dining room is set with a real gold service, and the princess’s bathroom has running water. @ 20 min. Ground floor.

7 ★★★ H e n r y Crow n S p a c e Center. The story of space exploration is documented in copious detail inside this 35,000-square-foot Classical statues on the exterior of the Museum of Science and Industry.

The dining room in Colleen Moore’s Fairy Castle is set with gold tableware.

(3,150-sq.-m) addition to the museum—a must for space buffs. A highlight here is the A p o l l o 8 C o mm a n d M o d u l e , the first manned craft to orbit the moon (check the exterior, and you’ll spot the bumps and bruises it accumulated during the course of its journey to and from space). Other items of interest include astronaut training gear and a moon rock. Best of all is a 20-minute simulated space-shuttle experience at the center’s five-story O m n i m a x Theater. Other science-related IMAX films are also screened at the theater; call the museum or check the website for show times. @ 40 min. (more, if you see a film). Off ground level.

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P ra c t i c a l I n f o r m a t i o n The Museum of Science and Industry (y 800/468-6674 or 773/ 684-1414; www.msichicago.org) is located at 57th Street and Lake Shore Drive. Take Bus 6 or the Metra Rail to 57th Street and Lake Park Avenue. Admission to the museum only is $13 adults, $12 seniors, $9 kids 3 to 11, and free for children under 3. Admission is free during various times of the year, especially in September and January. Check the website under “admission prices” for a full listing. Combination tickets to the museum and Omnimax Theater cost $20 adults, $19 seniors, $14 kids 3 to 11, and free for kids under 3 on an adult’s lap. The museum is open Monday through Saturday 9:30am to 5:30pm, and Sunday from 11am to 5:30pm. It is closed December 25.

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of the Roman Catholic 1 Residence E. Oak St. Archbishop of Chicago 2 Madlener House 3 Patterson-McCormick Mansion 4 1525 N. Astor Street 5 1451 N. Astor Street 6 1449 N. Astor Street 7 Charnley-Persky House 8 Astor Court 9 Playboy Mansion 10 1310 N. Astor Street 11 Three Arts Club

Previous page: The Gold Coast neighborhood.

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h i s s c e n i c a n d ex c l u s i ve n e i g h b o r h o o d o f l e a f y s t re e t s a n d h i s t o r i c m a n s i o n s f ro n t s La ke M i c h i g a n and is home to some of Chicago’s most famous and moneyed families. It dates back to the 1880s, when retailing wizard Potter Palmer built a lakeshore castle in the midst of what was then wild marshland (his spectacular home, at what is now 1450 N. Lake Shore Dr., was eventually torn down and a high-rise complex built in its place). After buying up the neighboring land, Palmer watched the city’s most prominent social families follow his lead, turning his marshland into real estate gold. STA RT: O a k S t re e t B e a c h , L a ke S h o re D r i ve j u s t s o u t h o f O a k S t re e t . B u s : 1 5 1 .

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1 Residence of the Roman C a t h o l i c A rc h b i s h o p o f C h i c a g o . This 21⁄2-story Queen Anne–style mansion dates back to 1880 and stands on the grounds of a former cemetery. One of the oldest and most notable residences on the Gold Coast, it’s also one of the best preserved. Note the elaborate chimneys—there are 19 of them. The redbrick structure is the current home of Cardinal Francis George. 1555 N. State Pkwy. (at North Ave.).

2 M a d l e n e r H o u s e . Designed as a private residence by Richard E. Schmidt in 1902, this National Historic Landmark foreshadowed the Art Deco style that would not emerge in Chicago for another 20 Madlener House is noted for both its Prairie and Chicago school influences.

The stately Residence of the Roman Catholic Archbishop in Chicago is one of the best-preserved mansions in Chicago.

years. The brick-and-limestone structure’s clean lines and its doorways ornamented with delicate bronze grillwork offer hints of both the Prairie and Chicago schools of design. It’s currently home to the Graham Foundation for Advanced Studies in the Fine Arts, which has installed a collection of fragments from famous Chicago buildings in the courtyard. It’s a must for architecture buffs and historic home fans. @ 90 min. for guided tour. 4 W. Burton Place. y 312/787-4071. www.graham foundation.org. Tours run by Society of Architectural Historians; for tour

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48 information, www.sah.org, y 312/ 573-1365. Tours of interior are offered Sat in conjunction with guided tour of local historic homes. $10 adults, $5 seniors and kids.

3 Pa t t e r s o n – M c C o r m i c k M a n s i o n . Designed by New York architect Stanford White, this palazzo-style mansion was commissioned in 1893 by Joseph Medill, owner of the Chicago Tribune, as a wedding present for his daughter. The Georgian structure is faced with Roman bricks of burnt yellow and terra cotta trim, and marked the beginning of an architectural movement towards classical exteriors. The home was purchased in 1914 by Cyrus McCormick, Jr., son of the inventor of the reaper and the first president of International Harvester. McCormick had it enlarged to its current size in 1927. The building now houses condominiums. 20 E. Burton Place.

4 ★★ 1 5 2 5 N . A s t o r S t re e t . This attractive town house (on a block full of multimillon-dollar homes) is the former home of Robert Todd Lincoln (1843–1926), the son of Abraham and Mary Todd Lincoln. Lincoln operated a private law practice in Chicago before moving on to serve as secretary of war to presidents Garfield and Arthur. Upon the death of George Pullman, The 1893 palazzo-style Patterson– McCormick mansion marked the start of a Chicago trend focusing on Classic exteriors.

Frank Lloyd Wright called the CharnleyPersky House “the first modern house in America.”

one of his clients, Lincoln became president of the Palace Car Company in 1897.

5 ★★ 1 4 5 1 N . A s t o r S t re e t . Designed by Howard Van Doren Shaw, who built several of the mansions on ritzy Astor Street, this mansion showcases the unique “Jacobethan” style (a mixture of 16th- and 17th-c. features of Elizabethan and Jacobean architecture). It was originally built for brewer Peter Fortune in 1912.

6 ★★ 1 4 4 9 N . A s t o r S t re e t . The origins of this grandiose château remain a mystery, though it was definitely built around 1890. The exterior features, including an intimidating stone porch, decorative friezes, and a large front bay make for worthwhile viewing.

7 ★★ C h a r n l ey - Pe rs k y H o u s e . This 1892 National Historic Landmark was built by the firm of Adler and Sullivan, back when a 19-year-old draftsman named Frank Lloyd Wright was laboring there in obscurity. Wright’s role in designing the building (he called it “the first modern house in America”) is evident in its progressive shape, especially when

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8 A s t o r C o u r t . If this building evokes images of England when you look at it, that’s because of its Georgian formality, typical of the architecture you’d find in London. It was designed in 1914 by Howard Van Doren Shaw, the architect also responsible for the Goodman Theatre (p 128). Look up at the ornament over the central drive, which leads to a formal inner court surrounded by residential units: The ornament is the source of the structure’s nickname, “The Court of the Golden Hands.” 1355 N. Astor St. The almost sedate-looking Playboy Mansion was home to Hugh Hefner and his bunnies during Playboy’s heyday.

9 P l ay b oy M a n s i o n . Built in 1899, this very traditional-looking mansion was home to Playboy’s Hugh Hefner during his Chicago heyday in the 1960s. The building has been converted into private condos, so you’ll need your imagination to envision Hugh romping here with his bunnies. (Playboy Enterprises, now run by Hugh’s daughter, Christie Hefner, is still headquartered in Chicago.) 1340 N. State Pkwy.

0 1 3 1 0 N . A s t o r S t re e t . John Wellborn Root (1850–91), one of the founders of the Chicago School of Architecture and a former director of the American Institute of Architects, is best known for his work on skyscrapers with Daniel Burnham (their collaborations include the Monadnock and Rookery buildings). But this lovely brick town house, built by Root in 1887, must have struck a chord with the architect— he moved in and lived here with his family (including his son, John Root, Jr., a renowned architect in his own right) until he died of pneumonia at the young age of 41.

! T h re e A r t s C l u b . Currently under renovation to become a luxury hotel and club, this four-story Chicago landmark was built in 1914 by architect John Holabird to house a club dedicated to providing women with a suitable environment for the study of painting, music, and drama. Many of the club’s founders were prominent women of the time, including social reformer Jane Addams and socialite Edith Rockefeller McCormick. The club’s residential units were arranged around a central courtyard, much in the style of a Tuscan villa (a lot of the exterior ornamentation is also Byzantine in nature). The ornamental mosaics over the terra cotta entrance salute the three branches of the arts that the club is named for. 1300 N. Dearborn St.

The G o l d C o a s t

compared to its fanciful neighbors, homes that drew on styles based in antiquity. Even today, this home is an excellent illustration of the timelessness of Wright’s ideas. Charles Persky donated the building to the Society of Architectural Historians in 1995, and the society runs public tours on Wednesdays (45 min.) and Saturdays (90 min.). Call for information. @ 1 hr. 1365 N. Astor St. y 312/915-0105. www.sah.org. Tours are free Wed. at noon; Sat tours at 10am include other historic neighborhood residences and cost $10 adults, $5 seniors and kids.

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5 Twin Anchors Tavern W. Division St. 6 Anton Franzen House

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2 Moody Memorial Church 3 Crilly Court 4 315 & 319 W. Eugenie Street

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l d To w n i s a n e c l e c t i c re s i d e n t i a l n e i g h b o r h o o d that mixes frame cottages, brick town houses, historic taverns, and churches. Home to the city’s German immigrant population at the turn of the 20th century, Old Town became famous in the ’60s as a Hippie Haven (a time that saw the birth of the area’s most famous landmark, The Second City comedy theater). After falling down on its luck in the ’70s, the area has been gentrified and is now a top destination for boutique shopping, dining, and theater. STA RT: I n t e rs e c t i o n o f C l a r k S t re e t a n d N o r t h Av e n u e . B u s : 2 2 ( C l a r k ) .

1 G e r m a n i a C l u b . This lovely red-brick building, built in 1889, was the original home of a GermanAmerican Sangverein (singing society), a social outlet for immigrants in Chicago. Today, it’s home to a bank and several stores. Note the elaborate terra cotta ornamentation on the exterior and the oversize, arched windows on the second floor. 1536 N. Clark St.

2 M o o d y M e m o r i a l C h u rc h .

N. Clark St.

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Dwight L. Moody came to Chicago from Massachusetts in 1856 to work as a shoe salesman, but eventually became one of the city’s most colorful evangelists. He worked as a missionary mostly in the city’s poorer sections, notably the area that later became known as Cabrini Green, one of the nation’s most notorious housing projects (located at Clybourn St., Cabrini Green is nearly disassembled, and its residents have moved to low-rise, mixedincome housing). The church he founded was originally at Chicago Avenue and LaSalle Drive, where the Moody Bible Institute is now located. This building, dating from 1925, incorporates Byzantine (the decorative exterior) and Romanesque (the arched stainedglass windows) designs. Visitors are welcome to attend services. A free tour of the building is offered after the Sunday morning service. 1630 N. Clark St. y 312/943-0466. www.moodychurch.org.

Moody Memorial Church incorporates both Romanesque and Byzantine elements in its design.

3 C r i l l y C o u r t . Resembling homes in an old quarter of New Orleans (complete with wroughtiron balconies in the back), these well-maintained row houses sit on one of Chicago’s oldest streets. The houses (and the apartment buildings opposite them) were built by contractor Daniel F. Crilly around 1885, when he cut a lane, named it for himself, and offered cottages to working families on the lower end of the economic scale. The owl-eyed among you might spot the names of the Crilly’s children carved into the entrances to the Queen Anne–style buildings. Block of Eugenie St., just west of Wells St.

4 3 1 5 & 3 1 9 W. E u g e n i e S t re e t . These privately owned homes are excellent examples of the wooden dwellings built outside the city limits in the years immediately following the Great Fire (wooden buildings were outlawed in the city proper following the conflagration).

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A little taste of the Big Easy can be found amidst the wrought-iron balconies of Crilly Court.

They are noteworthy for their fanciful exterior trim work, not a rare sight in this immigrant neighborhood, where so many skilled artisans once made their homes. ★★★ Stop in for a burger at Tw i n A n c h o rs Tav e r n, a neighborhood watering hole. This down-home spot, decorated with memorabilia dating back to the days when Frank Sinatra was a frequent visitor, is a favorite of locals. I suspect you’ll feel at home here, too. 1655 N. Sedgwick St. y 312/266-1616. www.twin anchorsribs.com. $.

5

6 A n t o n Fra n z e n H o u s e . This classic Chicago cottage measures a story and a half and features a broad gabled facade. Built in 1880 of brick (as opposed to the prevailing wood), it is not so different in appearance from Frank Lloyd Wright’s original Oak Park cottage (p 147). If you want to see a prime example of the typical late–19thcentury Chicago house, this is it. 1726 N. Hudson Ave.

7 ★★ S t . M i c h a e l ’s C h u rc h . It’s said that if you can hear the bells of St. Michael’s, you know that you’re

in Old Town. Indeed, the clock tower of this monumental church presides over the neighborhood, casting a long shadow over the courtyard that leads to the entrance. Historically a German parish (as opposed to the Irish parishes found elsewhere in the city during the early 1900s), St. Michael’s (named for the Archangel who drove Adam and Eve from paradise) is a massive Romanesque church that reveals a strong southern European influence. The latter is especially evident in the stainedglass windows, embellished with Catholic iconography, that were imported from Munich at the turn of the 20th century. 1633 N. Cleveland Ave. (between North Ave. and Eugenie St.). y 312/642-2498. www. st-mikes.org.

8 ★★ A N ew Le a f . North Wells Street offers great window shopping, and this store is a standout. The loft-style space is filled with cut flowers, vintage plant varieties, tropical foliage, succulents, and everything else you need to make a house a home, including candles in a rainbow of colors, ribbons to match, votive holders, and other tabletop necessities. 1818 N. Wells St. y 312/642-8553.

9 P i p e r ’s A l l ey. This entertainment space was the site of a bakery owned by Henry Piper in 1880. During the 1960s, it was Old Town’s Frank Sinatra was a regular at the historic Twin Anchors Tavern, which still remains a local favorite.

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@ ★ Chicago History

Monumental St. Michael’s Church presides over Old Town.

most popular tourist zone, filled with boutiques and bead shops. Today it’s home to an art film cinema, several theaters and shops, and, since the 1950s, The Second City comedy club (p 126). 1616 N. Wells St.

0 Tw i s t e d S i s t e r B a ke r y. Located just south of North Avenue on Wells Street, this bakery’s appearance—marble tabletops, exposed brick walls, hardwood floors—suggests “cozy neighborhood bakery,” but the treats are a cut above. Pull a chair up to the fireplace and enjoy your choice of cupcakes, cookies, eclairs, cakes, and tarts, with a cup of Chicago’s best local brew, Intelligensia Coffee. 1543 N. Wells St. y 312/932-1128. www.twistedsisterbakery.com.

! W e s t B u r t o n P l a c e . What was once a short block of cookiecutter Victorian homes was remodeled in 1927 into inspired apartment buildings by Sol Kogen and Edgar Miller, two Old Town artists who had studied together at the Art Institute in 1917. The heavily embellished

M u s e u m . Founded in 1856, the History Museum (formerly the Chicago Historical Society) is one of Chicago’s oldest cultural institutions. Its handsome Georgian redbrick headquarters on the southwestern tip of Lincoln Park (just on the edge of Old Town) recently underwent a massive renovation. New galleries feature interactive exhibits, including a re-creation of an 1890s El station; an exhibit on “Chicago in Crisis” (covering everything from the Great Chicago Fire of 1871 to the Democratic Convention riots in 1968); and a section on Illinois’s most famous native son, Abraham Lincoln. There’s a special gallery just for kids, where you can dress up like a giant Chicago hot dog with all the fixings and admire yourself, hot peppers and all, in the mirror. 1601 N. Clark St. (at North Ave.). y 312/642-4600. www.chicagohistory.org. Kids love the interactive hot dog exhibit at the Chicago History Museum.

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structures were rehabbed with an assortment of salvaged materials (glass, marble, terra cotta, and so on) from various demolished buildings in the area. Miller’s masterpiece is 155 W. Burton Place (observe the bounty of transparent stained glass—Miller’s favorite medium). Leases on the apartments within are zealously guarded.

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i c ke r Pa r k i s a n a r t i s t s ’ c o m m u n i t y f i l l e d w i t h t re n d y s h o p s , f u n k y re s t a u ra n t s , and side streets lined with pricey mansions and other examples of Victorian architecture. Bucktown, traditionally working-class, is alive with new development. Both are favorite nighttime destinations of Chicagoans in search of the latest and greatest clubs and bars, but many don’t get to see the neighborhoods’ historic architecture, which is best viewed during the day.

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N. Paulina St.

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ingdale Ave.

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park in the city (a mere 4 acres/1.6 hectares) gave its name to one of Chicago’s most famous neighborhoods. The park was donated to the city around 1870 by siblings Charles (an alderman who made his money building railroads) and Joel Wicker. The brothers had extensive real estate holdings in the area and figured the park could only enhance the value of their property. At the intersection of N. Damen Ave. and Schiller St.

2 1 9 5 9 – 1 9 6 1 W. S c h i l l e r S t re e t . This double home was built in 1886 in the fashionable Second Empire–style (note the large mansard roof and decorative sawtooth pattern in the brickwork). Its owner was a ship’s captain and medical doctor. In the 1920s it

Built in the Second Empire–style, 1959–1961 W. Schiller has been restored to its original splendor.

became a rooming house. It has thankfully been restored with lively Victorian colors.

3 1 9 5 1 W. S c h i l l e r S t re e t . Built as the residence of Dr. Nels T. Quales, a Norwegian immigrant and humanitarian who founded Chicago’s Lutheran Deaconess Hospital, this house dates from 1873

Picturesque Wicker Park is the namesake for one of the city’s most famous neighborhoods.

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and features Italianate styling and a Romanesque exterior noted for its use of arches and truncated columns. The addition of Moorish windows on the first and second stories altered the facade around 1890, and the house is currently being restored to its original condition.

4 H a r r i s C o h n H o u s e . This mansion (built in 1890–91) was the home of a partner in the Cohn Brothers Clothing Company. The Italian Romanesque facade features square columns of granite (polished to resemble marble) and a turret resting on a shell-shaped base. Stonework on the second-floor balcony follows a checkerboard pattern, and handrails are scrolled with a motif of oak leaves. The residence was reconverted from a boarding house into a single-family home after a fire damaged it around 1980, and underwent extensive interior restoration and beautification in the 1990s. 1941 W. Schiller St.

5 N e l s o n A l g re n H o u s e . The exterior stonework on this threestory home is worth a look, but more interesting than the facade is The Harris Cohn House features topnotch stone- and woodwork.

The cannon in the yard of 1558 N. Hoyne Ave. is a remnant of the home’s time as an American Legion headquarters.

the fact that novelist Nelson Algren (1909–1981) lived in one of the building’s third-floor apartments from 1959 to 1975. The National Book Award–winner (for his landmark The Man with the Golden Arm) and journalist drew inspiration for his writing from the surrounding neighborhood. A sidewalk marker provides info about Algren’s life and writings. 1958 W. Evergreen St.

6 P r i t z ke r S c h o o l . This Chicago public school is named for its most famous alumnus. A. N. Pritzker, the son of a Russian immigrant, grew up in the neighborhood and graduated from this school when it was known as Wicker Park School (Pritzker’s family went on to found the Hyatt hotel chain). 2009 W. Schiller St.

7 1 4 0 7 N . H oy n e Av e n u e . In the late 19th century, so many vintners and brewers built mansions along the stretch of Hoyne running from Evergreen Avenue to North Avenue, that it became known as B e e r B a ro n R ow. This mansion, built in 1880 by German wine merchant John Rapp, was the largest

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8 1 5 2 1 N . H oy n e Av e n u e . German manufacturing executive Adolph Borgmeier was definitely behind the design of this fetching mansion, built in 1890 (though some claim it was actually built by a war profiteer who scammed the federal government for millions during the Civil War). The design is a brilliant mix of Romanesque and Queen Anne elements; look closely at the metal trim, and you’ll spot a host of decorative symbols (flowers, scrolls, and so on). The likeness of a woman carved into the exterior is a typical embellishment on German-built houses.

9 1 5 5 8 N . H oy n e Av e n u e . Ever fearful of another conflagration after the events of the Great Fire of 1871, the designers of this 1877 mansion stuck to ornamental pressed metal when creating its decorative trim. The Queen Anne–style home was originally built for Hermann Plautz, the president of the Northwestern Brewing Company. From 1927 to 1972, it served as the headquarters for the local American Legion (which is why that seemingly out-of-place cannon is still in the front yard).

0 H e r m a n n We i n h a r d t H o u s e . When furniture company exec Hermann Weinhardt commissioned a home that would remind him of his German roots, this mustsee mix of fairy-tale Victorian and Bavarian gingerbread was the result. The 1888 mansion features three stories of extraordinary detailing, including an elaborately carved balcony and an unusual juxtaposition of green stone and redbrick limestone. 2135 W. Pierce Ave. (between N. Hoyne Ave. and N. Leavitt St.).

! H a n s D . R u n g e H o u s e . This 1884 home, built by the treasurer of the Wolf Brothers Milling Company, is considered a prime example of the intricate Eastlake style (named for 19th-c. English designer Charles Eastlake) of ornamentation and features lots of elaborate woodwork. Architecture aside, the house is best known for a 1930 concert given by the great Polish pianist and statesman Ignacy Paderewski from the upper level of the building’s twostory porch, when the home functioned as the Polish consulate. 2138 W. Pierce Ave. (between N. Hoyne Ave. and N. Leavitt St.). Paderewski gave a piano concert on the Hans D. Runge House’s balcony in 1930.

B u c k t ow n & W i c ke r Pa r k

single-family estate in Wicker Park at the time (the estate’s Coach House is now a separate residence at 2044 W. Schiller St.). The mansard roof and wrought-iron fence are characteristic of the Second Empire–style of the estate. For all of its grandeur, however, this was not a happy home: Rapp was murdered here by his bookkeeper, his wife went insane, and their son was convicted of embezzlement. Note that locals refer to this place as either the Goldblatt or Wieboldt Mansion, though no member of these two prominent Chicago mercantile families (both Wicker Park fixtures) ever resided here.

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% N o r t h we s t To w e r B u i l d i n g.

The Northwest Tower Building is one of the finest examples of Art Deco architecture in Chicago.

@ 2 1 5 6 W. C a t o n S t re e t . Import-export entrepreneur Ole Thorpe built this German-influenced Romanesque mansion in 1892. The most obvious feature is the round, domed turret rising from the flared and rough-surfaced foundations. Other highlights include a host of stained-glass windows and a notable sunburst design over the door on the secondstory porch.

# F l a t I ro n B u i l d i n g. Wicker Park is known for its artistic bent, and this office building, designed in 1929 by the firm of Holabird & Root, is best known as the home of many artists’ lofts and galleries (most are open to the public, so feel free to wander around inside). 1569 N. Milwaukee Ave. (at W. North Ave.). $ L u xo r B a t h s . Also known as the North Avenue Baths, this building dates back to the 1920s, when public baths were all the rage. The baths were a popular meeting spot for wheelers and dealers back in the day, and, according to legend, were also a mob hangout. The gleaming terra cotta exterior is all that remains of the past; the interior has been transformed into a bunch of private yuppie apartments. 2041 W. North Ave.

One of the finest examples of Art Deco architecture in Chicago, this handsome 12-story office building was built in 1929 and was the tallest structure outside of the downtown area at the time. It’s often called the Coyote Building because it’s the site of the annual “Around the Coyote” arts festival. During the Prohibition era, the building was the terminus for a secret underground tunnel (now closed) that allowed patrons to escape a speak-easy across the street during raids. 1600 N. Milwaukee Ave.

^ = 1 9 3 4 W. N o r t h A v e n u e . The coolness quotient of the Wicker Park/Bucktown area may have soared in 2001, when MTV selected it as the site of that season’s hit reality soap opera, The Real World, but quite a number of The Flat Iron Building is home to many artists’ lofts and galleries.

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( St. Mary of the Angels.

Picturesque St. Mary of the Angels dominates the Bucktown skyline.

locals were anything but thrilled by the accompanying publicity. This Wicker Park loft apartment will be familiar to viewers as the spot where the young and the restless lived during filming (several of the seven cast members worked a few doors down, at the hip pizzeria, Piece).

& W i n d ow - s h o p a l o n g D a m e n Av e n u e . The best way to travel from Wicker Park into Bucktown is to window-shop along Damen Avenue, the street that marks the heart of the neighborhood. Start at its intersection with North Avenue and work your way up. The busy thoroughfare is loaded with vintage and designer clothing stores, cozy coffee shops, and trendy bars. Good shopping bets include B e l l y D a n c e M a t e r n i t y (p 77), R i l ey (p 79), and P s yc h o b a by (p 78). It’s also fabulous for people-watching.

The dome on this Renaissance-style Roman Catholic church dominates the neighborhood’s skyline, and was modeled on the Vatican’s St. Peter’s Basilica. The immense building—it takes up an entire block—opened in 1920 to serve Bucktown’s Polish parish, but by the 1980s had deteriorated to the point that it had been slated for demolition. A massive outcry from the local community led instead to a huge restoration campaign (the repairs cost more than the price of the original construction). Today, the church, from the carved angels on its rooftop to its stainedglass windows, is in picture-perfect shape. 1850 N. Hermitage Ave. (at W. Cordlandt St.). y 773/278-2644. www.smachicago.org. Window-shop your way down Bucktown’s major commercial street, Damen Avenue.

B u c k t ow n & W i c ke r Pa r k

★ Caff é d e The warmly lit L u c a features deep wooden booths and aims to replicate the small town of Cindente, Italy. Almond sodas, pastries, coffee, gelato, plus a selection of beers and wines are on the menu, and you can sit outside in good weather. 1721 N. Damen Ave. y 773/342-6000. $.

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1 The Swedish Bakery 2 Svea 3 Kopi Café 4 Ann Sather 5 Swedish-American Museum Center 6 Women and Children First 7 Middle Eastern Bakery 8 Hopleaf Bar 9 Ebenezer Lutheran Church

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h i c a g o ’s S we d i s h i m m i g ra n t s l e f t t h e i r m a r k o n t h i s n ow g e n t r i f i e d n e i g h b o r h o o d , which has the feel of a small Midwestern village—albeit with an eclectic mix of Middle Eastern restaurants and a burgeoning gay and lesbian community. The architecture isn’t particularly special, though on the side streets east of Clark Street, you’ll find typical Chicago-style redbrick three-flats (three-floor buildings, one apartment to a floor) and bungalows. Come here to stroll, shop, eat, people-watch, and soak up a unique neighborhood’s flavor. STA RT: C l a r k a n d Fo s t e r s t re e t s . E l : R e d L i n e to Berwyn.

1 ★★★ T h e S we d i s h B a ke r y. Many locals consider this 80-yearold bakery the best in Chicago. Handmade Swedish butter cookies are available year-round, and at the holidays, you’ll find festive heartshaped spicy ginger cookies (pepparkakor), spice cookies (pfeffernuesse), and marzariner almond tarts. Don’t let the crowds of loyal customers dissuade you; take a number and get in line—it moves quickly. 5348 N. Clark St. y 773/561-8919. www.swedish bakery.com.

2

S ve a serves The storefront only breakfast and lunch, featuring honest, simple home cooking: crepelike Swedish pancakes with lingonberry sauce; grilled falukorv, a mild pork sausage; and, of course, Swedish meatballs. 5236 N. Clark St. y 773/275-7738. $. The Swedish Bakery’s cakes and cookies make it a favorite with locals.

3 K o p i C a f é . Plan your next travel adventure at this travel bookstore, global boutique, and coffeehouse. It has a worldly charm (and a sort of Moroccan atmosphere), with pillows and floor-level tables for lounging, and boutique items (many are travel-themed) for browsing. Clocks on the walls keep the time for several countries around the world. They make a mean mango smoothie. 5317 N. Clark St. y 773/989-5674. 4 ★★ A n n S a t h e r. Say the words “Ann Sather” to a Chicagoan, and the reply will be “cinnamon buns.” The gigantic, gooey buns (two for $3) are synonymous with one of the city’s most popular brunch spots (there are additional locations on Belmont, Broadway, and Southport). For my money, though, the pecan rolls are even better, and best of all are the heavenly Swedish pancakes with lingonberries. Swedish folk art murals provide the ideal backdrop for your meal. There will be a wait, but don’t worry: lines move quickly. 5207 N. Clark St. y 773/271-6677. www.annsather.com.

5 = W o m e n a n d C h i l d re n F i rs t . This feminist and children’s bookstore holds a huge selection of titles (more than 30,000) for, by, and about women. Better yet, it’s a warm, inviting place that welcomes browsers. The store often sponsors

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K e e p i n g Wa r m w i t h S we d i s h G l ö g g Swedes and Chicagoans have one major thing in common: cold weather—and plenty of it. When icy winds blow off Lake Michigan, head to Andersonville for a piping-hot mug of glögg at Simon’s Tavern, 5210 N. Clark St. (y 773/878-0894). The Swedish-inspired bar (originally owned by a Swedish immigrant, then run by his son until 1994, when it was sold to some very friendly folks) mixes up quite a concoction of port wine, brandy, oranges, raisins, and spices, served in a glass coffee mug with almonds and wine-soaked raisins. While you’re sipping, make sure to check out the bulletproof glass booth, where the original owner, acting as a bootlegger, cashed people’s paychecks during Prohibition. When you’re touring and the temp starts dropping, Simon’s is the perfect spot for staying warm.

writing workshops and events featuring notable feminist authors (past guests have included Margaret Atwood and Maxine Hong Kingston). 5233 N. Clark St. (between Foster and The striking Gothic Ebenezer Lutheran Church, known as the “Swedish Cathedral.”

Bryn Mawr aves.). y 773/769-9299. www.womenandchildrenfirst.com.

6 ★★ = S we d i s h - A m e r i c a n M u s e u m C e n t e r. This storefront museum chronicles the Swedish immigrant contribution to American life. The museum is a hub of activity, offering cultural lectures, concerts, classes, and folk dancing geared to Swedish Americans, some of whom still live in the surrounding Andersonville neighborhood. On the third floor, you’ll find a highly worthwhile C h i l d re n ’s M u s e u m o f I m m i g ra t i o n , where Swedish craft demonstrations and classes, as well as language classes, are offered. Geared toward kindergarteners through sixth graders, the museum lets kids experience the journey to North America from the Old World. They can step inside an authentic Swedish farmhouse, board a steamship for America, and begin a new life in a log cabin. There’s also a nice gift shop that offers Orrefors glassware; books on Swedish folk art, decorating, and cooking; children’s toys; and holiday knickknacks. @ 30 min. 5211 N. Clark St. (near Foster Ave.). y 773/728-8111.

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No visit to Anne Sather is complete without its famous cinnamon buns.

www.samac.org. Admission $4 adults, $3 seniors and kids over age 3, free for kids under 3. Tues–Fri 10am–4pm; Sat–Sun 11am–4pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Bryn Mawr.

This striking, Gothic-style limestone church (nicknamed the “Swedish Cathedral”) was built in 1908 by the neighborhood’s Swedish Lutherans (the congregation, however, was founded in 1892). During the height of the Scandinavian immigration wave in the late 1890s and early 1900s, it served as a center for religion, culture, and family activities. Today, the church serves quite a diverse congregation (from Swedes to Nigerians) and is known for welcoming gays and lesbians. You will, however, still find evidence of the congregation’s Swedish heritage: On December 13, there’s a St. Lucia Day celebration, and on Christmas morning, there’s a traditional service conducted in Swedish. 1650 W. Foster Ave. y 773/561-8496. www. ebenezerchurch.org.

7 M i d d l e Ea s t e r n B a ke r y. This grocery is known for its deli counter, which features spinach pies, fresh falafel, trays of baklava, pickled vegetables, olives, and soups. If you’re looking to stock up on snacks to carry on your travels or something to munch on as you stroll the neighborhood, you’ll find plenty of bulk goods in wooden barrels: dried fruits, nuts, and candies. 1512 W. Foster Ave. y 773/561-2224.

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H o p l e a f B a r, a EuropeanThe style pub, is the perfect spot to end your shopping tour of Clark Street. Choose a Belgian brew (there’s a selection of 200 varieties) and a plate of some of the best fries in the city—perfectly crispy and served with sides of aioli (garlicky mayonnaise) and ketchup. 5148 N. Clark St. y 773/334-9851. $$.

Andersonville’s Hopleaf Bar serves some of the best fries in the city.

A n d e rs o n v i l l e

9 E b e n e z e r L u t h e ra n C h u rc h .

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y d e Pa r k c o m b i n e s a t o p a t t ra c t i o n fo r k i d s—The Museum of Science and Industry—with the University of Chicago’s 175 acres of gorgeous Gothic buildings and some of the city’s most distinctive residential architecture. It’s a truly racially integrated neighborhood and well worth visiting, but be aware that just beyond its borders lie some of the blighted areas of the city. STA RT: Ta ke t h e

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1 M i d way P l a i s a n c e . The heart of the University of Chicago campus is a broad (1-block wide), grassy thoroughfare designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, the famous landscape architect behind New York City’s Central Park. The mile-long (1.6km) stretch was the site of the 1893 World Columbian Exposition’s Bazaar of Nations, which featured the world’s first Ferris wheel and carnival sideshow attractions. The term “midway” has been used ever since to refer to the heart of a carnival. At 60th St. and Stony Island Ave., west to Cottage Grove Ave. 2 ★★★ R o b i e H o u s e . Considered a masterpiece of 20th-century American architecture, this National Historic Landmark features the open layout, linear geometry of form, and craftsmanship that are typical of Frank Lloyd Wright’s Prairie School design. Completed in 1909 for inventor Frederick Robie, a bicycle and motorcycle manufacturer, the home is also notable for its exquisite leaded- and stained-glass doors and windows. It’s also among the last of Wright’s Prairie School–style homes: During its construction, Wright abandoned both his family and his Oak Park practice to follow other pursuits, most prominently the realization of his Taliesin home and studio in Spring Green, Wisconsin. Docents from Oak Park’s Frank Lloyd Wright Home & Studio Foundation (p 147, 2) lead tours here, even though the house is currently undergoing a massive, 10-year restoration. A Wright specialty bookshop is

located in the building’s former three-car garage—a structure that was highly unusual for the time in which it was built. @ 2 hr. 5757 S. Woodlawn Ave. (at 58th St.). y 773/ 834-1847. www.wrightplus.org. Admission $12 adults, $10 seniors and $5 kids 4–10. Mon–Fri tours at 11am, 1pm, and 3pm; Sat–Sun every half-hour 11am–3:30pm. Bookshop open daily 10am–5pm. Bus: 6.

3 ★★★ R o c ke fe l l e r M e m o r i a l C h a p e l . John D. Rockefeller founded the University of Chicago in cooperation with the American Baptist Society, and his bequest to the university included funds for this magnificent Gothic minicathedral (a mere chapel, it isn’t). The building was designed by Bertram Goodhue (who was also the architect behind Cal Tech’s campus) and dedicated in 1928; it was renamed for its benefactor upon his death in 1937. Outstanding features include the Robie House, among the last of Frank Lloyd Wright’s Prairie School–style homes.

H yd e Pa r k

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66 http://oi.uchicago.edu. Free admission; suggested donation $5 adults, $2 children under 12. Tues and Thurs–Sat 10am–6pm; Wed 10am– 8:30pm; Sun noon–6pm. Bus: 6.

5

The Assyrian winged bull from the palace of Sargon II, at the Oriental Institute.

circular stained-glass window high above the main altar, a series of statues depicting important figures in religion, and the world’s secondlargest carillon (72 bells). 5850 S. Woodlawn Ave. y 773/702-2100. http://rockefeller.uchicago.edu. Free admission. Daily 8am–4pm. Bus: 6.

4 ★★ T h e O r i e n t a l I n s t i t u t e . The Oriental Institute houses one of the world’s major collections of Near Eastern art (some of the exhibits here date back to 9000 B.C.). Many of the galleries have been renovated since the Institute’s opening in 1931, but this is still a traditional museum: lots of glass cases, very few interactive exhibits. The must-see Egyptian Gallery includes a monumental 17foot (5.2m) solid-quartzite statue of King Tutankhamen (the boy king who ruled Egypt from about 1335–24 B.C.), the largest Egyptian sculpture in the Western Hemisphere (tipping the scales at 6 tons/5,443k). The highlight of the Mesopotamian Gallery is a massive, 16-foot-tall (4.9m) sculpture of a winged bull with a human head, which once stood in the palace of Assyrian King Sargon II. Many of the gallery’s other works have become one-of-a-kind since the looting of the National Museum in Baghdad in 2003. @ 1 hr. 1155 E. 58th St. (at University Ave.). y 773/702-9514.

M e d i c i R e s t a u ra n t , The casual near the university campus, has fed generations of students, who’ve carved their names into the tables while chowing down on the house specialty—pizza. Great salads and baked goods, too. 1327 E. 57th St. y 773/667-7394. $.

6 C o b b G a t e . Enter the campus of the world-renowned University of Chicago (more than 75 Nobel Laureates have graced its halls) through Cobb Gate (movie buffs might recognize it as the place where Harry met Sally in When Harry Met Sally), which features lots of Gothic detailing. The mythic figures climbing to the tip of the gate’s pointed gable are said to represent the admissions counselor and college examiner, defying students an easy passage into the university. You, however, can pass through without problem, and can stroll around the campus’s dramatic stone buildings (most of them designed by renowned Gothic architect Henry Ives Cobb), The University of Chicago’s Rockefeller Memorial Chapel, a Gothic masterpiece.

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patterned after England’s Oxford University. 57th St. between Ellis and University aves.

7 J o s e p h R e g e n s t e i n L i b ra r y. This building is a behemoth that was ostensibly designed to blend in with its neighbors, but does nothing of the sort. The building’s textured limestone (it looks like slab concrete) and vertical glass windows are not beloved by critics, but the users of this seven-floor research library (the largest on campus) give it high marks. It is home to one of the most extensive map collections in the world. The library is generally closed to the public, but out-of-state visitors with a valid photo ID can get a day pass at the library’s Privileges Office (worth it if you’re a bookworm or a map fan). 1100 E. 57th St. (between S. University and S. Ellis aves.). y 773/702-8782. www.lib.uchicago.edu.

The Cobb Gate entrance to the University of Chicago campus.

0 C o b b Le c t u re H a l l . This distinctive Gothic building, the first sculpture (representing a skull and a of 19 that Henry I. Cobb mushroom cloud) by Henry (1859–1931) designed for Moore was installed in 1967 the campus, was all there to commemorate the site of was to the University of the world’s first controlled Chicago when it opened nuclear chain reaction. In for business in 1892. 1942, Nobel Laureate Enrico Classes are still held Fermi supervised that historic here today (the interior event in a makeshift underwas revamped in 1963), ground laboratory beneath and the building is also what was then the grandhome to the Renaisstand of the university’s sance Society, Nuclear Energy marks the site Stagg Field sports staChicago’s oldest dium. Ellis Ave. between of the world’s first controlled contemporary art nuclear chain reaction. 56th and 57th sts. museum (founded in 1915). The Society holds frequent exhibitions that are open to the pubJ i m m y ’s Wo o d l aw n Ta p is lic in the Bregman Gallery on the the University of Chicago’s most fourth floor. 5811 S. Ellis Ave. famous watering hole. This 50y 773/702-8670. www.renaissance year-old bar and grill doesn’t offer much in the way of atmosphere (it’s society.org. Free admission. Gallery famously rough around the edges), open Tues–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat–Sun noon–5pm. but it’s a great place to grab a 8 N u c l e a r E n e r g y. This abstract

9

drink, burger, or barbecue beef or reuben sandwich. 1172 E. 55th St. y 773/643-5516. $.

! ★★ J o s e p h B o n d C h a p e l . Even nonbelievers applaud the exquisite interiors of this showcase

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for ecclesiastical architecture. The 300-seat chapel was donated to the university in 1926 in honor of the memory of Joseph Bond, a former trustee of the Baptist Theological Union, a precursor to the university’s Divinity School (which uses the building for services on Wed mornings). The structure is richly decorated with detailed carvings, etchings, sculptures, stained glass, and detailed woodwork—all of it themed to messages from the New Testament and the Gospels. The picturesque chapel is a very popular venue for weddings. 1050 E. 59th St. y 773/702-8200. http://divinity.uchicago.edu/student/ bond.shtml.

@ R o s a l i e V i l l a s . In 1883, a developer named Rosalie Buckingham purchased this land and planned to build a subdivision of 42 houses on spacious lots to re-create One of the eclectically designed and visually striking Rosalie Villas.

a semi-rural environment. She hired George Pullman’s architect, Solon S. Berman, who had recently completed building the Pullman planned community, just to the south. Today, many of the cottages they constructed remain, in various states of repair, and line both sides of the block. Their eclectic color schemes and overgrown gardens give the street a distinctive countercultural flavor. Harper Ave. between 59th and 57th sts.

# J a c k s o n Pa r k . Originally known as South Park (in 1880 it was renamed in honor of President Andrew Jackson), this 1,055-acre (4.3-sq.-km) park was laid out in 1871 by Olmsted and Vaux, the team that designed Central Park in New York City. The full plan for the park, however, wasn’t carried out until 1890, when Olmsted returned to Chicago to work with Daniel Burnham on the World’s Columbian Exposition. Together, the two architects mapped out broad boulevards and built fountains and temporary, ornate, white buildings (the park was nicknamed The White City during the fair). Today, few of the Beaux Arts structures and gardens erected for the Exposition remain (an exception is the Fine Arts Palace, which now houses the Museum of Science and Industry; see p 42), though the park has aged quite gracefully and is a popular spot for strolling, fishing, golf, tennis, and boating. 6401 S. Stony Island Ave. Bus: 1 or 6.

$ ★★★ = M u s e u m o f S c ie n c e a n d I n d u s t r y. Cap your walking tour with a stop at this museum’s stellar Henry Crown Space Center. If time allows, rest your legs while taking in a movie at the center’s Omnimax Theater. See p 44, 7.

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S h o p p i n g Best Bets Best Place for Ta ke - H o m e G i f t s ★★★ Chicago ArchiCenter, 224 S. Michigan Ave. (p 81)

Best B a rg a i n S h o e s ★★ Lori’s Discount Designer Shoes, 824 W. Armitage Ave. (p 78)

Best A r t S u p p l i e s ★★ Pearl Paint Art Supplies, 255 W. Chicago Ave. (p 75)

Best H o m e Fu r n i s h i n g s ★★★ Primitive Art Works, 130 N. Jefferson St. (p 82)

Best W o o d Fu r n i t u re ★★★ Sawbridge Studios, 153 W. Ohio St. (p 82)

Biggest C o l l e c t i o n o f B l u e s and Jazz

Best Place for M e n ’s H i g h Fa s h i o n Ultimo, 116 E. Oak St. (p 79)

Best Place for W o m e n ’s H i g h Fa s h i o n Ikram, 873 N. Rush St. (p 77)

Best H i p a n d We a ra b l e W o m e n ’s Fa s h i o n ★★ Sugar Magnolia, 34 E. Oak St. (p 79)

Best W i n e S t o re ★★ House of Glunz, 1206 N. Wells St. (p 81)

Best M u s e u m S h o p ★★ Art Institute of Chicago, 111 S. Michigan Ave. (p 81)

Best V i n t a g e C l o t h i n g

★★★ Jazz Record Mart, 27 E. Illinois St. (p 83)

★★★ Wacky Cats, 3012 N. Lincoln Ave. (p 79)

Best A r t G a l l e r y

Best D e s i g n e r V i n t a g e

★★★ Rhona Hoffman Gallery, 118 N. Peoria St. (p 82)

★★★ McShane’s Exchange, 815 W. Armitage Ave. (p 78)

Best Va r i e t y o f C l o t h i n g

Best P l a c e fo r A n t i q u e s

★★★ Mark Shale, 900 N. Michigan Ave. (p 78)

★★★ Griffins & Gargoyles Ltd., 2140 N. Lawrence Ave. (p 75)

Best D e p a r t m e n t S t o re Va l u e s

Best G o u r m e t Fo o d S t o re

Nordstrom, 55 E. Grand Ave. (on Michigan Ave., p 80)

★★★ Fox & Obel Food Market, 401 E. Illinois St. (p 80)

Best G l a s s wa re

Best C h o c o l a t e s

★★ P.O.S.H., 613 N. State St. (p 82)

★★★ Vosges Haut-Chocolat, 520 N. Michigan Ave. (p 81)

Best C h i l d re n ’s B o o k s Unabridged Bookstore, 3251 N. Broadway (p 77)

Fox & Obel Food Market, the city’s top spot for gourmet foods.

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p 69: The Paper Source in River North.




.

American Girl Place 15 Antiquarians Building 28
17 The AppleMuseum Store 22of Old Water Contemporary
18 Tower CHICAGO Aveda 14 Art E. Chicago Ave. Barnes & Noble 1 M
19 Barneys New York 8 20 Bloomingdale’s 13 W. Superior St. E. Superior St. Blue Chicago Store 27 Chicago 21 22 Border’s 16 Place Chicago Place 21 W. Huron St. E. Huron St. Elements 17 23 Fox & Obel 31 W. Erie St. E. Erie St. Georg Jensen 10 24 Glove Me Tender 13 The Goddess and Grocer/Cru W. Ontario St. E. Ontario St. Wine Bar and Café 11 25 Hermès Chicago 6
26 Ikram 12 E. Ohio St. Jazz Record Mart 29 Jonathan Adler 24
27 GRAND Kate Spade 9 E. Grand Ave. M Westfield 30 Mark Shale 13
28 31 North Bridge Material Possessions 23 29 E. Illinois St. W. Illinois St. Neiman Marcus 20 0 3 mi 900 North Michigan Avenue 13 Nordstrom 30 94 S T41 REETERPaper Source 18 W. V Kinzie St.V E R R I I L L E 90 Wrigley Pearl Paint Art Supplies 19 Wrigley Building NORTH Field Prada 3 P.O.S.H. 25 C H I C A G O R i v o e r Sabon 2 ag To Navy Pier Chic Map area Saks Fifth Avenue 21 Sawbridge Studios 26 290 Sugar Magnolia 4 Ultimo 7 U.S. Cellular Vosges Haut-Chocolate 26 Field 55 0 1/10 mile Water Tower Place 15 90 41 Westfield North Bridge Mall 26 94 E. North Midway Midway 100 meters Water St. 0 Wolford 5

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Antiques The Antiquarians Building RIVER NORTH Some 30 dealers on four floors proffer fine antiques for big bucks. Offerings include silver, jewelry, and Asian, Art Deco, Old English, and mid–20th-century furnishings. 159 W. Kinzie St. y 312/ 527-0533. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Brown Line to Merchandise Mart. Map p 71.

A n t i q u e R e s o u rc e s WEST LAKEVIEW This spot specializes in antique lighting fixtures, especially French chandeliers, and also features a good array of Georgian furniture. 1741 W. Belmont Ave. y 773/ 871-4242. www.antiqueresources inc.com. MC, V. El: Red or Brown line to Belmont. Map p 72. B ro a d w a y A n t i q u e M a r ke t WEST LAKEVIEW Two floors of funky, fun, and somewhat pricey antiques and collectibles. 6130 N. Broadway. y 773/743-5444. www. bamchicago.com. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Granville. Map p 72.

Fa t h e r T i m e A n t i q u e s WEST LAKEVIEW This family-owned shop, in business since 1979, sells the Midwest’s largest variety of antique timepieces. 2108 W. Belmont Ave. y 773/880-5599. www. fathertimeantiques.com. MC, V. El: Red or Brown line to Belmont. Map p 72. ★★★ G r i f f i n s & G a rg oy l e s L t d . RAVENSWOOD Family-owned since 1975, this shop specializes in Western European furniture dating from 1880 to 1930. Come for dining tables, bureaus and dressers, benches, and cabinets. Customizing is one of their specialties: a friend recently had a wonderful kitchen table fashioned from a zinc top and a whitewashed picnic table-style

base. 2140 W. Lawrence Ave. (at Diversey Pkwy.). y 773/769-1255. www.griffins-gargoyles.com. MC, V. El: Brown Line to Diversey. Map p 72.

A r t Supplies ★★ Pa p e r S o u rc e RIVER NORTH Now a national chain, Chicago is home to the original Paper Source store. Learn how to make your own scrapbooks, buy cards and small gifts, choose among reams of exotic papers, or add to your collection of rubber stamps. 232 W. Chicago Ave. y 312/337-0798. www.paper-source. com. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Brown Line to Chicago. Map p 71. ★★ Pe a r l Pa i n t A r t S u p p l i e s RIVER NORTH The Midwestern outpost of New York’s famous Canal Street store carries everything from canvases and egg-tempera paints for serious artists to glue guns and glitter for rainy-day arts and crafts. 255 W. Chicago Ave. (at Franklin St.). y 312/915-0200. www.pearlpaint. com. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Brown Line to Chicago. Map p 71. Father Time Antiques offers a quality selection of antique clocks and watches.

S h o p p i n g A to Z

S h o p p i n g A to Z

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S h o p p i n g i n C h i c a g o : J u s t t h e Fa c t s Chicago stores usually open for business at 9 or 10am. Smaller stores usually close by 5 or 6pm. Traditionally, larger stores stay open latest—until 8pm or so—on Thursday night. On all other nights, except Sundays, when they open around 11am and close around 6pm, department stores stay open until about 7pm. The biggest sales of the year take place in January, when retailers slash prices on winter clothing to make room for spring offerings. This is the best time to shop (if you didn’t blow all your bucks over the holidays), especially because Chicago has the highest total sales tax of any major city in the country at 10.25%. Car rentals are taxed at 20%, hotel rooms at 15.4%, and soft drinks 13.25%. Ouch. Grocery items and medications are much less, at 2%.

B e a u t y P ro d u c t s & C o s m e t i c s Av e d a MAGNIFICENT MILE This branch of the eco-friendly Minnesotabased cosmetics company sells allnatural scents, lotions, hair care products, and makeup. Come here and breathe in the aromatherapy. 875 N. Michigan Ave., in the plaza of the John Hancock Center Observatory. y 312/664-0417. www.aveda.com. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 71. ★★★ B l u e M e rc u r y LINCOLN PARK Both a luxury apothecary and spa chain, this shop carries a huge range of cosmetics, from Diptyque, Fresh, Creed, Laura Mercier, and more, including hard-to-find brands. 2208 N. Halsted St. y 773/ 327-6900. www.bluemercury.com. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Brown Line to Armitage. Map p 72.

S a b o n GOLD COAST Known for its body scrubs and minimalist packaging, this is the place to pop into for a free Dead Sea hand scrub. You’ll also find home scents, facial bars, and—perfect for those long Chicago winters—a deep moisturizing body butter. 1152–1154 N. State St. y 312/981-1234.

www.sabonchicago.com. MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 71.

Books & Stationery B a r b a ra’s B o o k s t o re WEST LOOP This flagship store of a popular local chain is known for hosting numerous author readings for kids and adults. 1218 S. Halsted (at Roosevelt Rd.). y 312/413-2665. www. barbarasbookstore.com. AE, DISC, MC, V. Subway/El: Blue Line to UIC/ Halsted. Map p 72.

B a r n e s & N o b l e GOLD COAST Buy a book and sip coffee at the ground-level cafe in this well-situated store, just steps away from the hustle and bustle of Michigan Avenue. 1130 N. State St. y 312/280-8155. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Clark/ Division. Map p 71. B o r d e rs MAGNIFICENT MILE This enormously popular and well-trafficked bookstore has a cafe that overlooks Michigan Avenue and a lower level offering a colorful selection of writing accessories. 830 N. Michigan Ave. y 312/573-0564. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/ State. Map p 71.

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★★ Pa p e r B oy WRIGLEYVILLE A card and gift store with some of the most offbeat and artsy greeting cards in the city, plus exquisite gift wrap and stationery. 1351 W. Belmont Ave. y 773/388-8811. AE, MC, V. El: Brown Line to Southport. Map p 72.

= U n a b r i d g e d B o o k s t o re LAKEVIEW This independent bookseller is known for its gay and lesbian specialty section, and also its award-winning range of children’s books. Their full-time, knowledgeable staff handwrites recommendations. Chicago’s largest children’s bookstore is a must-see, and features special events such as sidewalk chalk drawing and visits from book characters and authors. 3251 N. Broadway. y 773/883-9119. www. unabridgedbookstore.com. AE, MC, V. El: Red Line to Addison. Map p 72.

Clothing & Shoes ★★★ B a r n ey s N ew Yo r k MAGNIFICENT MILE A miniversion of New York’s Barneys, this is the place in town to buy top-of-the-line men’s suits. Not for those who faint at high prices, but excellent for spotting trends and people-watching. (For items skewing younger and lowerpriced, check out the Barney’s Coop at 2209-11 N. Halsted St.) 25 E. Oak St. y 312/587-1700. www. barneys.com. MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 71. ★★ B e l l y D a n c e M a t e r n i t y BUCKTOWN/WICKER PARK Hip maternity clothes for stylish momsto-be, from Japanese Weekend, Michael Stars, Earl Jeans, and Citizens of Humanity. The Storksak diaper bags and blankets from Little Giraffe make great baby shower gifts. 1647 N. Damen Ave. y 773/ 862-1133. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Blue Line to Damen. Map p 72.

Head for Glove Me Tender to stock up on accessories that will help you combat the city’s windy winters.

★★ E l e m e n t s MAGNIFICENT MILE High-end, high-design gifts, jewelry, handbags, kitchen and bath accessories, and tabletop items are what you’ll find at this cutting-edge retailer. 741 N. Wells St. y 312/6426574. AE, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 71.

G l ov e M e Te n d e r MAGNIFICENT MILE If you lost your mittens somewhere in your travels up and down Michigan Avenue, this boutique has a huge selection to help you replace them—along with hats, scarves, and other accessories. 900 N. Michigan Ave., 5th Floor. y 312/ 664-4022. www.glovemetender.com. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 71. ★★★ H e r m è s C h i c a g o MAGNIFICENT MILE Hermès makes the world’s most sought-after scarves and ties. Don’t be intimidated, even if you’re not buying: It’s fun to walk through and gaze at the colorful designs that make these silk scarves and ties perennial favorites. 110 E. Oak St. y 312/787-8175. www. hermes.com. AE, DC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 71.

I k ra m MAGNIFICENT MILE This boutique stocks all the big names, from Valentino to Yves St. Laurent. Among the high-priced offerings are jewelry, stationery, and decorative

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accessories that give the place a personal touch. 873 N. Rush St. y 312/587-1000. www.ikramonline. com. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 71. ★★ K a t e S p a d e MAGNIFICENT MILE Head here for designer handbags, ranging in style from plaid and gingham to snakeskin and basic black. Her shoes and stationery goods are adorable, too. 101 E. Oak St. y 312/654-8853. www.kate spade.com. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 71. ★★ Lo r i ’s D i s c o u n t D e s i g n e r S h o e s LINCOLN PARK This mecca for shoe lovers features discounted footwear from major designers. On weekends, the store swarms with shoppers. Happy hunting! 824 W. Armitage Ave. y 773/281-5655. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Brown Line to Armitage. Map p 72. ★★★ M a r k S h a l e MAGNIFICENT MILE Chicago’s own upscale clothing chain, with a fine selection of men’s and women’s casual and dressy clothing and labels you won’t find in most department stores. The menswear is especially good, and the service is excellent. 900 N. Michigan Ave., 3rd and 4th floors. y 312/ 440-0720. www.markshale.com. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 71. ★★★ M c S h a n e’s E xc h a n g e LINCOLN PARK This consignment shop sells designer clothes at realperson prices. Sorry guys: They only carry women’s clothing. 815 W. Armitage Ave. y 773/525-0282. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Brown Line to Armitage. Map p 72. ★★ N i c h e Fo o t we a r BUCKTOWN/ WICKER PARK Fashionable European footwear, including Moma boots from Italy, Chie Mahara from Spain, Paul Smith from the U.K., and France’s Costume National. You

might even find a pair of boots that are warm enough to stand up to Chicago winters while being cute enough to stand out in a crowd. 1566 N. Damen Ave. y 773/4892001. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Blue Line to Damen. Map p 72.

P ra d a MAGNIFICENT MILE A boutique so chic it’s almost painful. Chicago’s top spot for buying the famous Italian designer’s signature bags. 30 E. Oak St. y 312/951-1113. AE, DC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 71. P s yc h o b a by BUCKTOWN/WICKER PARK Cool, crazy clothing for babies and kids up to size 6X. Everything your creative kid needs to express his or her individuality, from shoes to toys to T-shirts that read “Half-Pint Hipster.” 1630 N. Damen Ave. y 773/772-2815. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Blue Line to Damen. Map p 72. The Red Head Boutique WRIGLEYVILLE Women’s specialty boutique featuring trendy clothes, purses, and jewelry. 3450 N. Southport Ave. y 773/325-9898. www. redheadboutique.com. AE, MC, V. El: Brown Line to Southport. Map p 72. Psychobaby sells hip clothes for the young set.

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★ S h e O n e WRIGLEYVILLE Shop at this boutique for chic yet inexpensive women’s clothing. 3402 N. Southport Ave. y 773/549-9698. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Brown Line to Southport. Map p 72. ★★ S u g a r M a g n o l i a MAGNIFICENT MILE This women’s clothing boutique sells casual attire for relaxing, and sexy clothes for going out. It also offers small gifts, jewelry, and handbags. 34 E. Oak St. y 312/9440885. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 71.

U l t i m o MAGNIFICENT MILE Chicago’s best-known upscale clothier offers women’s clothing by bigtime labels such as John Galliano, Dolce & Gabbana, and Agnona. 114 E. Oak St. y 312/787-1171. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 71. ★★★ W a c k y C a t s LAKEVIEW Mannequins in various eccentric outfits greet you at this shop, featuring such 1950s-era vintage items as taffeta cocktail dresses and bowling shirts. 3012 N. Lincoln Ave. (at Wellington Ave.). y 773/929-6701. www.wackycats.com. AE, MC, V. El: Brown Line to Wellington. Map p 72.

W o l fo r d MAGNIFICENT MILE Slip into this lingerie boutique for sleek bodysuits and durable hosiery from Europe. 54 E. Oak St. y 312/6428787. MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/ State. Map p 71.

S h o p p i n g A to Z

★★ R i l ey BUCKTOWN/WICKER PARK Modern, casual clothing for men and women in a clean-cut store, with ochre wood and black leather furniture. Popular picks for men include Jet Lag cargos and separates by Phil Moor and Kenneth Cole. For women, you’ll find a huge selection of Michael Stars T-shirts. 1659 N. Damen Ave. y 773/4890101. MC, V. El: Blue Line to Damen. Map p 72.

Stylish moms-to-be flock to Belly Dance Maternity for hip attire.

C o n s u m e r E l e c t ro n i c s T h e A p p l e S t o re MAGNIFICENT MILE The four-story mecca for all technological gadgets beginning with “i”: iPod, iMac, and more. The prices are retail, but the store offers in-house computer (Macs only, of course) workshops and an extremely knowledgeable sales staff. 679 N. Michigan Ave. y 312/981-4104. www.apple.com. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Grand/State. Map p 71.

D e p a r t m e n t S t o re s B l o o m i n g d a l e’s MAGNIFICENT MILE The first Midwestern branch of the famed upscale New York department store features six manageably sized floors of shopping. The store carries its own in-house brands as well as the full range of designers that you’d expect, with especially good shoe and jewelry selections. 900 N. Michigan Ave. (at Walton St.). y 312/440-4460. www.blooming dales.com. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 71.

M a cy ’s THE LOOP Federated Department Stores changed the legendary Marshall Field’s flagship store

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into a Macy’s in 2006 (many locals still refuse to use any name but the original). The name may be different, but this landmark (opened in 1852) still offers 73 acres (30 hectares) of shopping. Chicago traditions include meeting under the store’s clock and viewing the famous animated holiday window displays. Take afternoon tea in the gracious Walnut Room. 111 N. State St. y 312/781-1000. www.macys.com. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Randolph. Map p 74.

N e i m a n M a rc u s MAGNIFICENT MILE Yes, you’ll pay top dollar for designer names here, but Neiman’s has a broader price range than many of its critics care to admit. It also has some great sales. Once you’ve shopped ’til you’ve dropped, get your blood sugar back up by eating a popover in the Zodiac Room. 737 N. Michigan Ave. (at Superior St.). y 312/642-5900. www.neimanmarcus.com. AE. El: Red Line to Chicago. Map p 71. N o r d s t ro m MAGNIFICENT MILE A spacious, airy design and trendy touches complement this store’s famed focus on service. Cafe Nordstrom offers a shopping break, with salads and sandwiches. Westfield North Bridge Mall, 55 E. Grand Ave. (at Rush St.). y 312/464-1515. www.nordstrom.com. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Grand. Map p 71.

S a k s F i f t h Av e n u e MAGNIFICENT MILE This upscale department store is best known for its varied fragrance selection and designer collections. The men’s department gets high marks for personalized service and is located in a separate building on the east side of Michigan Avenue. Chicago Place, 700 N. Michigan Ave. (at Superior St.). y 312/944-6500. www.saksfifthavenue.com. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/ State. Map p 71. Fo o d , C h o c o l a t e s & W i n e ★★★ F ox & O b e l Fo o d M a r ke t STREETERVILLE This local gourmet store features a butcher, fresh fish counter, deli, bakery, produce market, and a prepared foods area. There’s even a cafe, which serves a knockout New York strip-loin sandwich. The hours (6am–midnight daily) will accommodate your urge for a late-night gourmet snack. 401 E. Illinois St. y 312/410-7301. www. fox-obel.com. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Bus: 151 to Illinois. Map p 71.

T h e G o d d e s s a n d G ro c e r / C r u W i n e B a r a n d C a fe MAGNIFICENT MILE At once a wine bar, restaurant, and upscale grocer, here you can pick up wine, liquor, beer, cheeses, pâtés, crackers, and anything else you might need to make a romantic picnic or a take-home

The venerable Marshall Field’s department store is now a Macy’s, but it still sells everything from crystal to Cubs shirts.

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From mid-May to late October, Chicago’s downtown plazas and neighborhoods overflow with fruits, vegetables, flowers, and food from farms outside the city—even from outside the state. Markets in residential neighborhoods, such as the gourmet market at Lincoln Park High School, 2001 N. Orchard, usually take place on Saturdays. The farmers’ markets that are held downtown—including those listed here—take place during the week. Schedules may vary, so contact the Mayor’s Office of Special Events (y 312/744-3315) for more information. Downtown markets include: • Daley Plaza, 55 W. Randolph St., on Thursdays • Federal Plaza, Adams Street and Jackson Street, on Tuesdays • Park at Jackson Street and Wacker Drive, across from the Sears Tower, on Thursdays • Prudential Plaza, 130 E. Randolph St., every other Tuesday

snack to eat in your hotel room. On the other side of the store, you’ll find Cru, a wine bar where you can nosh on cheese plates and the Cru Club sandwich, with lobster, avocado, and beef tenderloin. 888 N. Wabash St. y 312/337-4001. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 71. ★★ H o u s e o f G l u n z OLD TOWN Chicago’s oldest wine shop carries an inventory of some 1,500 wines, some of which date back to 1811. Ask the knowledgeable owners to steer you to the right bottle for your budget. 1206 N. Wells St. y 312/ 642-3000. www.houseofglunz.com. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Clark/ Division. Map p 72. ★★★ Vo s g e s H a u t - C h o c o l a t MAGNIFICENT MILE Exotic-flavored truffles (including paprika, candied violets, and Cointreau) in pretty packaging, and the best toffee I’ve ever had. 520 N. Michigan Ave. (Westfield North Bridge Mall). y 312/644-9450. www.vosgeschocolate.com. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Grand/State. Map p 71.

Gift Shops ★★ A r t I n s t i t u t e o f C h i c a g o THE LOOP This museum’s bustling gift shop is a great place to shop for jewelry, glassware, books, and quality reproductions. 111 S. Michigan Ave. y 312/443-3600. www.artic. edu. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Green, Brown, Purple, or Orange line to Adams, or Red Line to Monroe or Jackson. Map p 74. ★★★ C h i c a g o A rc h i C e n t e r THE LOOP The best gift shop in the city offers architecture-focused books, decorative accessories, and gifts. You’ll also find “Architecture Ambassadors” providing information on the wide range of tours on offer. 224 S. Michigan Ave. y 312/922-3432. www.architecture.org. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Monroe or Jackson. Map p 74.

G a l l e r y 3 7 S t o re THE LOOP The paintings, jewelry, ceramics, decorated furniture, textiles, and sculptures sold here are made by Chicago residents, ages 14 to 21, participating in a nonprofit arts training program. Proceeds benefit

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the program. 66 E. Randolph St. y 312/744-7274. www.gallery37. org. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Randolph. Map p 74.

H o u s e w a re s , F u r n i s h i n g s & Art ★★★ G e o rg J e n s e n MAGNIFICENT MILE This branch of the famous Danish company sells Scandinavian designs in silver, silverware, other household items, and jewelry. In The Drake Hotel, 959 N. Michigan Ave. y 312/642-9160. www.georg jensen.com. AE, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 71. ★★ J o n a t h a n A d l e r RIVER NORTH Known for his needlepoint throw pillows, you can find all of those “homemade” touches you need to make a house a very hip home. 676 N. Wabash St. y 312/274-9920. www .jonathanadler.com. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Grand. Map p 71. ★★ M a t e r i a l Po s s e s s i o n s RIVER NORTH Shop here for unusual table settings, including pottery and glass, custom dinnerware, and a selection of artistic jewelry. 704 N. Wabash St. y 312/280-4885. www. materialpossessions.com. AE, MC, V. El: Red Line to Grand. Map p 71. ★★ P.O.S.H. RIVER NORTH Neverused vintage silver and commercialgrade china from European and American hotels will inspire you to set a fun, quirky table. 613 N. State St. y 312/280-1602. www.posh chicago.com. MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago. Map p 71. ★★★ P r i m i t i ve A r t Wo r k s WEST LOOP Winding your way through this 31,000-square-foot (2,880-sq.-m) store, you’ll feel as if you’ve taken an exotic worldwide journey. Packed with furniture, rugs, jewelry, and beads from various cultures, this store might yield a giant Buddha head acquired from a Korean temple that was being destroyed on one

day; on another, you might discover an exquisite embroidered rug from Turkmenistan. 130 N. Jefferson St. y 312/575-9600. www.beprimitive. com. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Brown Line to Chicago. ★★★ R h o n a H o f f m a n G a l l e r y BUCKTOWN/WICKER PARK This gallery has a high profile on the international scene and is a purveyor of works by blue-chip players such as Cindy Sherman, Sol LeWitt, and Jenny Holzer. Hoffman has also added pieces by up-and-comers such as Dawoud Bey. 118 N. Peoria St. y 312/455-1990. No credit cards. Bus: 20 (Madison). Map p 74. ★★★ S aw b r i d g e S t u d i o s RIVER NORTH Stunningly crafted furniture with stunning prices to boot. Some of the most beautiful woodworking I’ve ever seen. 153 W. Ohio St. y 312/828-0055. www.sawbridge. com. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Brown Line to Merchandise Mart. Map p 74.

S h a b by C h i c LINCOLN PARK Everything you need to achieve the famous, feminine decorating look Quirky china and vintage silver are the major buys at P.O.S.H.

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= W estfield Nor th Bridge Sawbridge Studios sells magnificent woodwork and beautifully crafted furniture.

created by English designer Rachel Ashwell is for sale in this furniture and furnishings store. 2146 N. Halsted St. y 773/327-9372. www. shabbychic.com. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Brown Line to Armitage. Map p 72.

M i c h i g a n Av e n u e’s Ve r t i c a l Shopping Malls C h i c a g o P l a c e MAGNIFICENT MILE Inaugurated in 1991, Chicago Place has been looking for an identity ever since. The mall is mainly notable as the home of Saks Fifth Avenue. 700 N. Michigan Ave. y 312/266-7710. www.chicago-place.com. El: Red Line to State/Grand. Map p 71.

9 0 0 N o r t h M i c h i g a n Av e n u e MAGNIFICENT MILE The most upscale of the Magnificent Mile malls is often called the “Bloomingdale’s building” for its most prominent tenant. There are about 70 stores, a few good restaurants, and a chic salon named for well-known local hairdresser Mario Tricoci; book well in advance, as it’s always bustling. 900 N. Michigan Ave. y 312/915-3916. www.shop900.com. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 71.

W a t e r To w e r P l a c e MAGNIFICENT MILE Chicago’s first— and busiest—vertical mall, this

M a l l MAGNIFICENT MILE The best concentration of kids’ stores on the Mag Mile—The Lego Store (y 312/ 494-0760) being my top pick—is located on the third floor of this mall, anchored by Nordstrom. 520 N. Michigan Ave. y 312/327-2300. www.westfield.com/northbridge. El: Red Line to State/Grand. Map p 71. Music

= Blue Chicago Store RIVER NORTH Here’s a store that’s dedicated to teaching kids about the blues. Pick up some books and CDs, and consider attending the Saturday night dance-a-thons that are open to all ages. 534 N. Clark (at W. Grand Ave.). y 312/661-1003. www.blue chicago.com. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to State/Grand. Map p 71.

D u s t y G ro ov e A m e r i c a LAKEVIEW Soul, funk, jazz, Brazilian, lounge, Latin, and hip-hop music on new and used vinyl. All the new CDs are rare or imported—or both. 1120 N. Ashland Ave. y 773/342-5800. www.dustygroove.com. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Blue Line to Division. Map p 72. ★★★ J a z z R e c o r d M a r t RIVER NORTH Arguably the best jazz record store in the country, and confirmably the largest. The first of four rooms in this extensive store houses the “Killers Rack,” albums that the store’s owners consider essential to any jazz collection. 27 E. Illinois. y 312/222-1467. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Grand. Map p 71.

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seven-floor building has about 100 mostly upscale stores that reportedly account for roughly half of all the retail trade transacted along the Magnificent Mile. 835 N. Michigan Ave. y 312/440-3165. www.shop WaterTower.com. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 71.

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preteen set, this store recently moved to the former Lord & Taylor space in the Water Tower Place mall and lures in thousands of shoppers each year with selections of clothing, dolls, books, and accessories. Call ahead to book a lunch or afternoon tea in the cafe. 835 N. Michigan Ave. (Water Tower Place). y 312/2559876. www.americangirlplace.com. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 71.

There’s no better place in town for novelty goods than Uncle Fun.

To y s A m e r i c a n G i r l P l a c e MAGNIFICENT MILE

The “in” place for the

★★ U n c l e Fu n LAKEVIEW Uncle Fun and his staff travel the world to bring home bobbing head figurines, accordions, and stink bombs from all corners of the Earth—for the sole purpose of tickling your fancy. If you can’t make it in person, check out the “Famous 12-Step Plan for Fun” on the website. 1338 W. Belmont Ave. (near Southport Ave.). y 773/ 477-8223. www.unclefunchicago. com. AE, MC, V. El: Red or Brown line to Belmont. Map p 72.

•

A r t Fa i rs Browse alongside locals at these quality juried art fairs, for which artists from all over the country apply to be accepted: A ro u n d t h e C oy o t e , at the intersection of Damen, North, and Milwaukee avenues (y 773/342-6777; www.aroundthecoyote.org), takes place the second weekend in September. Your entrance fee entitles you to enter local art galleries, as well as many artists’ homes and studios in Wicker Park and Bucktown. B u c k t ow n A r t s Fe s t , near Fullerton and Western avenues (y 312/ 409-8305; www.bucktownartsfest.com), is held the last weekend in August in a comfortable park setting. The 5 7 t h S t re e t A r t Fa i r, 57th Street in downtown Hyde Park (y 773/493-3247; www.57thstreetartfair.org), is a long-standing fair that’s a natural outgrowth of the intellectual and artsy enclave of Hyde Park. The action takes place on the third weekend in June. O l d To w n A r t Fa i r, Lincoln Avenue and Wisconsin Street (y 312/ 337-1938; www.oldtownartfair.org), is held the second weekend in June. The most high-end of Chicago’s art-fair offerings, it boasts art prices to match.

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y fa v o r i t e o u t d o o r e s c a p e i s I n d i a n a D u n e s N a t i o n a l La ke s h o re , 53 miles (85km) southeast of Chicago. You may not associate the Midwest with sand dunes, but a trip here will change your mind. The landscape includes 15 miles (24km) of dunes and grasses fronting Lake Michigan, reminiscent of Cape Cod, as well as maple and oak forests, marshes, and bogs. STA RT: Yo u ’ l l n e e d t o d r i v e , s o t h i s i s t h e d ay t o r e n t a c a r i f y o u d i d n ’ t b r i n g y o u r s a l o n g . Ta ke I - 9 4 Ea s t t o I n d . 4 9 N o r t h ( e a s t o f Po r t e r ) . Fo l l ow I n d . 4 9 N o r t h t o R t e . 1 2 . Trav e l e a s t o n R t e . 1 2 fo r 3 m i l e s t o t h e D o ro t h y B u e l l M e m or i a l V i s i t o r C e n t e r.

1 D o ro t h y B u e l l M e m o r i a l V i s i t o r C e n t e r. Stop by the information desk for a free map covering the National Lakeshore. Both kids and adults will enjoy the 10-minute orientation slide show; there are also interactive video terminals for youngsters. You’ll also find restrooms and a gift shop. @ 20 min. y 219/926-7561, ext. 225. www. nps.gov/indu. Park admission $8 per vehicle. Open Memorial Day to Labor Day daily 8am–6pm; rest of the year daily 8am–5pm.

2 C a l u m e t D u n e Tra i l . Perfect for novices and the mobilityimpaired, this .8-mile (1.2km) paved trail starts behind the Dorothy Buell Memorial Visitor Center and winds through a forest of yellow sassafras and oaks. Signs describe the flora and fauna along the way. If you only have time for one short hike, this is the trail to walk to get a good, representative sample of the natural wonders of the lakeshore, from the gently rolling dunes to a swamp, and, finally, the majestic red and white oak trees that create a dense canopy in summer months. @ 20–30 min.

3 = Chellberg Fa r m. Those with a historical bent will enjoy touring this restored 1885 brick farmhouse, which belonged to a Swedish immigrant family that lived and worked on this farm for three generations. The Chellberg family sold their farm to the National Park Service in

You can step back into the 19th century when you visit the fully restored brick farmhouse on Chellberg Farm.

1927, and their home has been restored to its original late–19th-century appearance (forget electricity and indoor plumbing). There’s also a barn filled with farm animals; you can help farmers feed them on Saturdays and Sundays. @ 1 hr. www.nps.gov/ indu. For information on Chellberg Farm, see www.nps.gov/archive/indu/ history/chellberg.htm. Free admission. Open 8am to sunset year-round.

4 B a i l l y H o m e s t e a d . This National Historic Landmark, the former residence of a French Canadian fur trader, dates back to 1822, when it served as a meeting and trading center for Native Americans and Euro-Americans. On Sundays from 1 to 4pm, volunteers dress in period clothing and offer up lots of historical tidbits and insights into life on the homestead. For history buffs, this is a rare opportunity to catch a glimpse into the lives of early settlers. While you’re here, don’t miss the unusual family cemetery. @ 1 hr. www.nps.gov/indu. Open Memorial

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Day to Labor Day daily 11am–4:30pm; Mar 1 to Memorial Day and Labor Day to Oct Sat–Sun 11am–4:30pm.

5 M o u n t B a l d y. At 125 feet (38m), this is the largest “living” sand dune in the park, meaning that the dune is kept in constant motion by wind and water. Mt. Baldy actually creeps several inches (7.5cm) farther from Lake Michigan each year. It got its name thanks to its lack of vegetation, which is the reason why it’s mobile—there are no plants anchoring it. The dune is one of the best attractions in the park, popular with everyone from kids to experienced hikers. Climb to the top for a real aerobic workout; you’ll be rewarded with a sweeping view of the lake, and on a clear day, you can see all the way to Chicago. Kids love to race to the top; on the southern slope, you’ll see halfburied trees (as they move, the dunes bury forests, and erosion exposes them again). Once you climb down the “mountain,” head for the lake; if it’s July or August, the water will be warm enough for a refreshing dip. @ 30 min. Open May–Sept daily 6am–9pm; Oct–Apr daily 8am–sunset.

6 W e s t B e a c h . This top attraction is not only one of the lakeshore’s most popular beaches, but also the starting point for a scenic 3-mile (4.8km) boardwalk trail that leads you through dunes, an oak savanna, and jack pine forests on your way to Lake Michigan. It’s the perfect trail for sampling the many landscapes found in the National Lakeshore. The beach is my favorite at the lakeshore; it’s very popular with swimmers, though you should use caution, as the lake bottom can be uneven and there can be dangerous rip currents (a concern at all of the lakeshore’s beaches). This is the only beach where lifeguards are on duty (summer months only), and there’s a bathhouse, picnic facilities, vending

Take time to explore the many beaches along the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore.

machines, and restrooms, too.

@ 2 hr. y 219/926-7561, ext. 668 for swimming info. May–Sept $6 parking fee until 8pm; Oct–Apr free parking. Open May–Sept daily 9am–9pm; Oct–Apr daily 8am–sunset.

7 K e m i l B e a c h . If it’s beachgoing that you’re focused on, check out Kemil Beach, a long stretch of beautiful white sand. While West Beach is my favorite for swimming and sunbathing, this is the best spot in the national lakeshore to watch the sunset. If you get here early enough for one last hike before the sun goes down, don’t miss the Dune Ridge Trail, which starts right off the parking lot. This moderate, 1-mile loop requires some climbing, but is nothing a reasonably fit person can’t handle, and will take you through a lovely forested area. Restrooms are available. @ 1 hr. Open May–Sept daily 6am–9pm; Oct–Apr daily 8am–sunset. It’s nothing fancy, but there is a c o n c e s s i o n a n d c a m p g ro u n d g ro c e r y that’s open during the summer months (you can buy wood, ice, groceries, and picnic supplies), and a small fast-food outlet. The crowd tends to include a nice mix of older people, singles, teenagers, and families. 1600 N. Hwy. 25E, Chesterton, IN. y 219/ 926-1952. $.

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n e o f t h e t h i n g s C h i c a g o a n s l ov e m o s t a b o u t t h e i r c i t y i s t h e s c e n i c l a ke f ro n t p a t h that extends 18 miles (29km) along Lake Michigan’s shore, from Hollywood Beach in the north (the neighborhood of Edgewater) to the Museum of Science and Industry (Hyde Park) in the south. It’s perfect for biking, strolling, spreading a beach towel on the sand or grass, or simply sitting on a park bench and watching the world go by. If the weather is fine and you want to stop for a dip along the way, all beaches officially open about June 20 (although the water temperature is at its best in August, when it hovers just above 70°F/21°C). STA RT: H o l l y wo o d - A r d m o re B e a c h , B e r wyn El Station.

Tip For picnic supplies, do as the locals do and head to B o c k w i n ke l ’s , 222 N. Columbus Drive (y 312/4829900). Known for its lunch specials (sandwiches, a superior salad bar, and really great fruit), you’ll find it on the ground floor of the Park Millennium building, located one block north of Millennium Park, and one block east of Michigan Avenue.

1 Kathy Osterman Beach. Known to locals as Hollywood-Ardmore Beach, this lovely crescent of sand is less congested than many of the city’s other beaches. If you’re looking for relative quiet and seclusion (relative because this is a big city, after all), you’ll find a like-minded, tanned-and-toned crowd here, sunning themselves. The beach’s south end has steadily become popular with gays, who’ve moved up the lakefront from their longtime hangout at Belmont Rocks. Facilities include bathrooms and drinking fountains. This is one of the city’s nine wheelchair-accessible beaches. @ 30 min. 5700 N. Lake Shore Dr. (at Hollywood St.). y 312/742-PLAY. www.chicago parkdistrict.com.

2 M o n t ro s e B e a c h . This unsung treasure is midway between Hollywood-Ardmore and North Avenue beaches. Long popular with

the city’s Hispanic community, it offers an expanse of sand mostly uninterrupted by jetties or piers (unlike North Ave. Beach), a huge adjacent park with soccer fields, and one big hill that’s great for kite flying. If you’re interested in having some green space for tossing a baseball, or want to watch a soccer game, this beach is your best choice—no other beach in the area boasts such proximity to a park. As at North Avenue Beach, you’ll find bathrooms, drinking fountains, bike racks, and concession stands. It’s also a popular spot for fishing. @ 30 min. Lake Shore Dr. at Montrose Ave. y 312/742-PLAY. www.chicagoparkdistrict.com.

3 Doggie Beach at Belmont H a r b o r. Chicago is a town of dog The Chicago Lakeshore is a scenic spot for a stroll, bike ride, or picnic.

C h i c a g o L a ke s h o re

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92 and North Ave. y 312/742-PLAY. www.chicagoparkdistrict.com.

5 O a k S t re e t B e a c h . The city’s

Many a Chicagoan has taken a fourlegged friend to Doggie Beach for a game of fetch.

lovers, many of whom bring their pooches here for a dip. Nestled in a small corner of a harbor near Hawthorne and Lake Shore Drive, this is not so much a beach as an enclosed strip of sand where locals take their dogs to fetch sticks and play in the water. Facilities are minimal. @ 10 min. 3200 N. Lake Shore Dr. (just south of Addison St.). y 312/742-PLAY. www.chicagopark district.com.

4 N o r t h Av e n u e B e a c h . I’m one of many Chicagoans who can’t get enough of the view from the lakefront bike path here, looking south to the John Hancock Center— a view so famous it’s often featured on the cover of guide books. To get a snapshot of the picture-perfect scene, walk north on Lake Shore Drive to North Avenue, and take the tunnel to North Avenue Beach. Once on the lakefront path, turn south toward the city, and you will have your Kodak moment. (Just watch out for all the cyclists, skaters, runners, and dog walkers if it’s a nice summer day.) Accessible to both the mobility-impaired and to families toting strollers, the beach also offers an array of facilities, including restrooms, concession stands, drinking fountains, bike racks, volleyball courts, and a chess pavilion. @ 30 min. Lake Shore Dr.

best-known beach, and my personal favorite, is a perfect place to get back in touch with the world. Its location, at the northern tip of the Magnificent Mile, creates some interesting people-watching moments: In season, check out the local sun worshippers wearing flipflops and carrying coolers as they make their way up tony Michigan Avenue toward this curving slice of sand. The beach is accessible to families with strollers and the mobility-impaired, but this trendy spot can get crowded on summer afternoons. Facilities include volleyball courts and bathrooms. @ 30 min. Lake Shore Dr. and Oak St. y 312/742PLAY. www.chicagoparkdistrict.com. The warm-weather-only beachfront O a k S t re e t B e a c h s t ro , is cafe, set right on the sands of Oak Street Beach. It serves inventive cafe fare, including fresh seafood, sandwiches, and pastas. Beer and wine are available. 1000 N. Lake Shore Dr. at Oak Street Beach. y 312/915-4100. $$.

6

Unsung Montrose Beach is much loved by soccer players, who love to play in its adjacent park.

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A theme restaurant inspired by the Bubba film Forrest Gump, G u m p S h r i m p C o . & M a r ke t is a casual family seafood joint that looks just like a southern shrimp shack, complete with metal pails on the tables (for paper towels). Tasty smoothies for the kids (or try the speckled lemonade, freshly squeezed and made with strawberries), peel-and-eat shrimp, and hush puppies make this a great lunch stop at Navy Pier. 600 E. Grand Ave. (at Lake Michigan). y 312/252-4867. www.bubbagump.com. $$.

8=

The protected harbor of Ohio Street beach attracts many a sailor.

7 O h i o S t re e t B e a c h . If it’s seclusion you’re seeking, you’ll enjoy Ohio Street Beach, an intimate sliver of sand just west of Navy Pier. Thanks to buoys marking a 1-mile (1.6km) swimming course and a location in a protected harbor (making for calmer waters than you’ll find elsewhere on the lake), Ohio Street Beach is also the place for serious open-water swimming. On most summer mornings, you’ll see athletes (often in wet suits) training in the water, many of them preparing for the annual Chicago Triathlon in August. @ 20 min. 400 N. Lake

9 C o l u m b i a Ya c h t C l u b . Housed in a 372-foot (113m) Canadian icebreaker and ferry named Abegweit (often called Abby by locals), this private club dates back to 1891, and is now the premier spot for sailing lessons on Lake Michigan. Even if you’re not a yachting fan, the harbor area offers lovely views. @ 5 min., unless you’re taking a lesson. In Monroe Harbor, at the foot of Randolph Dr. and Lake

Pa r k P l a n n i n g Chicago’s lakefront is forever free and clear of development thanks in no small part to Daniel H. Burnham (1846–1912), a renowned architect and city planner. Burnham, architect of the Rookery (p 29, 7), the Monadnock Building (p 30, 9), the “White City” of the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition, New York’s Flatiron Building, and Washington, D.C.’s Union Station, presented his most ambitious work, the Plan of Chicago, in 1909 with architect Edward H. Bennett. (There’s a big centennial celebration planned for 2009, with two architects selected to build special pavilions in Millennium Park). The plan set the standard for urban design in the United States and anticipated the city’s need to control random urban growth and create a system of city parks and lakefront recreation areas.

C h i c a g o L a ke s h o re

Shore Dr. y 312/742-PLAY. www. chicagoparkdistrict.com.

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The Museum Campus is home to several major attractions, including the Adler Planetarium.

Shore Dr. y 312/938-3625. www. columbiayachtclub.com. Sailing school rates vary; contact the club or check the website.

0 M u s e u m C a m p u s . Created by the relocation of Lake Shore Drive, this beautiful park was opened in 1998 with the goal of being recognized as one of the most innovative cultural playgrounds in the country. The Campus connects three Chicago cultural institutions: The Adler Planetarium, Field Museum of Natural History (p 22, 9 ), and John G. Shedd Aquarium (p 21, 8). Today, broad walkways make it easier for pedestrians to visit the museums, and the reclaimed parkland and terraced gardens offer new space for picnicking, theater, and museum education activities. W o r d t o t h e w i s e : Traffic tends to get hectic and the Museum Campus congested on Chicago Bears game days (Soldier Field is just south of the Field Museum). Plan your visit accordingly. @ 30 min., more if you visit some of the museums. 18th St. and Lake Shore Dr. y 312/742-PLAY. www.museum campus.org. Bus: 12, 127, or 146.

•

B i ke s & S a f e t y Biking the Chicago lakefront is a wonderful way to while away a sunny afternoon. Except for an occasional construction barrier and the occasional crowd, the lakefront offers smooth and flat terrain that makes for an easy ride. The biggest challenge to riders is the wind, which can get downright nasty. Try to ride against the wind at the beginning of your ride when your legs are still fresh (this may mean shifting your route to ride north first—the wind is often out of the northwest). You might also encounter an east wind off the lake, which means you’ll be leaning to one side for the entire ride. Keep in mind that on very windy days, inexperienced cyclists have been known to take a spill. To rent bikes or in-line skates, head over to B i ke C h i c a g o (y 312/ 595-9600; www.bikechicago.com), which has locations at Millennium Park, Navy Pier, Riverwalk, North Avenue Beach, and Foster Beach. Bike rentals start at $8 an hour. The company also offers easy 2- to 3-hour bike tours of the lakefront; tours cost $30 adults, $25 seniors, $15 kids under 12. The latest and greatest addition is Segway tours, $49 for a 21⁄2 hour tour on the lakefront.

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D i n i n g Best Bets Best B ra z i l i a n S t e a k h o u s e

Best F re n c h B i s t ro

★ Texas de Brazil $$$ 51 E. Ohio St. (p 106)

★★ Bistro Campagne $ 4518 N. Lincoln Ave. (p 100)

Best B u rg e r

Best B a by B a c k R i b s

★★ Mike Ditka’s Restaurant $$$ 100 E. Chestnut St. (p 103)

★★ Twin Anchors Tavern $ 1655 N. Sedgwick St. (p 106)

Best F o n d u e

Most R o m a n t i c

★ Geja’s Cafe $$ 340 W. Armitage Ave. (p 101)

★★★ North Pond Café $$$ 2610 N. Cannon Dr. (p 104)

Best S u s h i

Best O u t d o o r D i n i n g

★★ Mirai Sushi $$$ 2020 W. Division St. (p 104)

★ Piccolo Sogno $$ 464 N. Halsted St. (p 104)

Best C h i c a g o - S t y l e P i z z a

Best I t a l i a n

★ Lou Malnati’s $ 439 N. Wells St. (p 103)

★★ Merlo $$ 2638 N. Lincoln Ave. (p 103)

Best C e l e b r i t y - C h e f M e a l

Best S t e a k h o u s e

★★★ Frontera Grill & Topolobampo $$–$$$ 445 N. Clark St. (p 101)

★★★ RL $$$ 115 E. Chicago Ave. (p 105)

Best S p e c i a l - O c c a s i o n R e s t a u ra n t

★★★ Shanghai Terrace (in the Peninsula Hotel) $$$ 108 E. Superior St. (p 105)

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★★★ L20 $$$$ 2300 N. Lincoln Park West (p 102) Chicago is renowned for its pizza, and there’s no better place to sample it than Lou Malnati’s.

N. Oakley

The Best D i n i n g

96

W. North A

Best A s i a n

W. Le Moy

Best B r u n c h ★ Milk & Honey Cafe $ 1920 W. Division St. (p 104)

W. Hirs

Best Ve g e t a r i a n ★★★ Green Zebra $ 1460 W. Chicago Ave. (p 102)

Best I c e C re a m ★ Margie’s Candies $ 1960 N. Western Ave. (p 103)

Best V i ew ★★★ Everest $$$$ 440 S. LaSalle St. (p 101)

Best P re -T h e a t e r M e a l ★★ Trattoria No. 10 $$ 10 N. Dearborn St. (p 106)

Previous page: Lou Mitchell’s, known for its generous and tasty breakfasts.




W. Haddo

W. Corte

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C h i c a g o Dining W. Scott St.

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R e s t a u ra n t s A to Z =

★ A t h e n i a n R o o m LINCOLN PARK GREEK Swing by this familyowned Greek taverna for chicken kalamata with a side of tasty fries smothered in olive oil, lemon, and red-wine vinegar, and topped with oregano, salt, and pepper. 807 W. Webster Ave. (at Halsted St.). y 773/348-5155. Entrees $4.50–$11. MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. El: Brown Line to Armitage. Map p 99. ★★ A t wo o d C a f é THE LOOP AMERICAN Colorful and offbeat, this stylish hotel restaurant serves fresh takes on American comfort food; try my personal favorite, the mussels in garlicky tomato sauce. In the Hotel Burnham, 1 W. Washington St. (at State St.). y 312/368-1900. www.atwoodcafe.com. Entrees $18–$26. AE, DISC, MC, V. Breakfast & lunch Mon–Sat; brunch Sun; dinner daily. El: Red Line to Washington/State. Map p 98. ★★★ A v e c RANDOLPH STREET MARKET DISTRICT FRENCH Dine in tight, modern quarters at this hot spot, which features small plates (the specialty of the house is homemade charcuterie) and matching wines, served carafe-style. 615 W. Randolph St. y 312/377-2002. Entrees $15–$25. AE, DC, MC, V. Dinner daily. El: Green Line to Clinton. Map p 98. ★★★ B i s t ro C a m p a g n e LINCOLN SQUARE FRENCH The best bistro in town sports a rich-wood, Prairieschool interior with a lovely garden space for outdoor dining. Expect excellently prepared but simple fare at a reasonable price. 4518 N. Lincoln Ave. y 773/271-6100. Entrees $8–$15. MC, V. Dinner daily; brunch Sun. El: Brown Line to Western. Map p 99.

The Hotel Burnham’s Atwood Café serves fresh takes on American comfort food.

=

★ B i s t ro 1 1 0 MAGNIFICENT MILE FRENCH A neighborhood crowd gathers here for tasty woodgrilled vegetable platters and bouillabaisse. The Sunday brunch offers a New Orleans flair and live jazz. 110 E. Pearson St. (just west of Michigan Ave.). y 312/266-3110. www.levy restaurants.com. Entrees $13–$28. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Mon–Sat; brunch Sun; dinner daily. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 98.

=

★ The Bongo Room WICKER PARK BREAKFAST This brightly colored brunch mecca offers tasty and creative treats such as lemon ricotta pancakes and bittersweet cocoa-espresso pancakes with Butterfinger-cashew butter. The menu changes every 4 months, so you’ll have to visit to discover their latest concoction. 1470 N. Milwaukee Ave. y 773/489-0690.

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★ C a fe I b e r i c o RIVER NORTH SPANISH This tapas joint is boisterous and crowded, but the food is authentic and inexpensive—perfect for a late-night dinner. 739 N. LaSalle St. (between Chicago Ave. and Superior St.). y 312/573-1510. www.cafe iberico.com. Entrees $8–$13; tapas $2–$7. DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. El: Red Line to Chicago/ State. Map p 98. ★★ C h e z J o ë l LITTLE ITALY FRENCH Cozy and romantic, this tiny piece of France serves up such classics as steak frites, braised lamb shank, and coq au vin. 1119 W. Taylor. y 312/ 226-6479. Entrees $12–$22. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Mon–Fri; dinner daily. El: Blue Line to Polk. Map p 98. ★★★ Ev e re s t THE LOOP FRENCH Forty stories above Chicago, this stylish Relais & Châteaux member astounds with spectacular views and earthy Alsatian cuisine to match. 440 S. LaSalle St. (at Congress Pkwy.). y 312/663-8920. www.everest restaurant.com. Reservations required. Entrees $27–$46. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Dinner Tues–Sat. El: Brown Line to LaSalle/Van Buren or Red Line to Adams. Map p 98. ★★★ F ro n t e ra G r i l l & To p o l o b a m p o RIVER NORTH MEXICAN Owners Rick and Deann Bayless run one of North America’s best Mexican restaurants. The older Frontera Grill dining room offers a casual atmosphere and classic cuisine; the newer and dressier Topolobampo room features more upscale fare. 445 N. Clark St. (between Illinois and Hubbard sts.). y 312/661-1434. www.frontera kitchens.com. Reservations accepted at Topolobampo; call Frontera at 8:30am the day-of for a limited

number of reservations. Entrees: Frontera $15–$25; Topolobampo $24–$35. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Frontera Grill: Lunch Tues–Fri; brunch Sat–Sun; dinner Tues–Sat. Topolobampo: Lunch Tues–Fri; dinner Tues–Sat. El: Red Line to Grand/State. Map p 98.

★ G e j a’s C a fe LINCOLN PARK FONDUE A dark, romantic hideaway, Geja’s (pronounced gay-haz) might strike some as too gloomy, and the cook-it-yourself technique won’t appeal to everyone, but for fondue fans, it’s heaven. Choose the Prince Geja’s combination dinner, the best Geja’s has to offer, including cheese fondue appetizer, followed by a platter of raw lobster, shrimp, chicken, beef, and scallops to cook at your table, plus veggies and dipping sauces. When the flaming chocolate fondue arrives for dessert, with fresh fruit and pound cake for dipping and marshmallows for roasting, you’ll want to beg for mercy. 340 W. Armitage Ave. (between Lincoln Ave. and Clark St.). y 773/281-9101. www.gejascafe.com. 3-course dinners $25–$45 per person. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri 5–11:30pm; Sat 5pm–midnight; Sun The stylish Topolobampo is one of the best Mexican restaurants in the country.

R e s t a u ra n t s A to Z

www.bongoroom.com. Entrees $8–$15. MC, V. Breakfast/brunch daily until 2:30pm. El: Blue Line to Damen. Map p 97.

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102 4:30–9:30pm. Subway/El: Brown Line to Armitage. Map p 99.

★ G i b s o n ’s S t e a k h o u s e GOLD COAST STEAKHOUSE Chicagoans come to this steakhouse to see and be seen (check out the celebrity photo wall). Giant-size, well-aged steaks are the stars of the show. 1028 N. Rush St. (at Bellevue Place). y 312/266-8999. www.gibsons steakhouse.com. Entrees $22–$35. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. El: Red Line to Clark/Division. Map p 98. ★ G re e n Z e b ra WEST TOWN VEGETARIAN A “small plates” approach offers creative veggie delights; count on ordering two miniportions if you want to fill up. The menu has a few chicken dishes, so it’s a good compromise for groups with both carnivores and vegetarians. 1460 W. Chicago Ave. (at Greenview St.). y 312/243-7100. www.greenzebrachicago.com. Entrees $7–$14. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Dinner daily. Bus: 66. Map p 98.

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★ H a r r y C a ray ’s RIVER NORTH ITALIAN/STEAKHOUSE Named for the legendary Chicago Cubs announcer, this restaurant’s showcases are filled with baseball memorabilia. The good steaks, chops, and Italian basics are served in enormous portions. 33 W. Kinzie St. (at Dearborn St.). y 312/8280966. www.harrycarays.com. Entrees $11–$33. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. El: Brown Line to Merchandise Mart, or Red Line to Grand/ State. Map p 98.

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★★ H e av e n o n S ev e n THE LOOP CAJUN The best Cajun and Creole cooking north of New Orleans. Opt for the po’ boy sandwiches (oyster and soft-shell crab). 111 N. Wabash Ave. (at Washington St.), 7th floor. y 312/263-6443. www.heavenonseven.com. Entrees $8–$11. No credit cards. Breakfast

Celebrate a Cubs win with Harry Caray’s enormous portions of Italian food.

Mon–Fri; brunch Sat; dinner 3rd Fri of each month. El: Orange, Brown, or Green line to Madison/Wabash. Map p 98.

★★ J a n e’s BUCKTOWN/WICKER PARK AMERICAN Bucktown residents pack this place (set inside an old but charming two-story home) for its pan-roasted grouper and goat cheese, and the herb-stuffed chicken breast. 1655 W. Cortland St. (west of Ashland Ave.). y 773/8625263. Entrees $9–$20. AE, MC, V. Brunch Sat–Sun; dinner daily. El: Blue Line to Damen. Map p 97. ★★★ L 2 0 LINCOLN PARK Pronounced el-two-oh, this seafood-centric spot has replaced Ambria as the jewel in the crown of Lettuce Entertain You’s restaurant chain. Your choices are $110 for a four-course prix-fixe menu or $165 for a 12course menu, with raw, warm, and main courses, all set in splendorous surroundings. 2300 N. Lincoln Park West (in the Belden-Stratford Hotel). y 773/868-0002. www.l20restaurant. com. Prix fixe. Dinner daily. Closed Tues. Bus: 151 to Belden. Jackets recommended for men. Map p 99.

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★ Lo u M i t c h e l l ’s THE LOOP AMERICAN/DINER A Chicago tradition since 1923, this quirky restaurant features attentive service and large portions. The airy omelets served in sizzling skillets (you’ll double your pleasure—and cholesterol—with Mitchell’s use of double-yolk eggs) are a standout. 565 W. Jackson Blvd. (at Jefferson St.). y 312/939-3111. Entrees $5–$12. No credit cards. Breakfast & lunch daily. El: Blue Line to Clinton St. Map p 98.

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★★★ M a rg i e’s C a n d i e s BUCKTOWN ICE CREAM A kitschy ice-cream parlor circa 1921 that serves sundaes in giant-size conch shell dishes and makes its own hot fudge, butterscotch, and caramel. It also serves a limited menu of

sandwiches and salads. 1960 N. Western Ave. (at Armitage Ave.). y 773/ 384-1035. Entrees $8–$15. V. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. El: Blue Line to Milwaukee/Western. Map p 97. ★ M e r l o LINCOLN PARK SOUTHERN ITALIAN Dine on authentic (the owners hail from Bologna) Bolognese cuisine in a re-created salon from an Emilia-Romagna villa. House specialties include tagliatelle with Bolognese ragu, and torta della nonna (a cake with cream filling and wild berry cream sauce). 2638 N. Lincoln Ave. y 773/529-0747. Entrees $15–$25. AE, DISC, MC, V. Dinner daily. El: Red Line to Fullerton or Brown Line to Diversey. Map p 99. ★★ M i ke D i t k a’s R e s t a u ra n t MAGNIFICENT MILE STEAKHOUSE Named for “Da Coach” of the 1985 Super Bowl champ Bears, this football memorabilia-filled gathering place attracts local celebs and a sophisticated crowd. Go for the “fullback size” filet mignon with spinach and homemade onion rings. 100 E. Chestnut St. y 312/587-8989. www. mikeditkaschicago.com. Entrees $15–$30. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Mon–Fri; brunch Sat–Sun; dinner

Giant, well-aged steaks steal the show at Gibson’s Steakhouse.

R e s t a u ra n t s A to Z

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★★★ Lo u M a l n a t i ’s RIVER NORTH PIZZA Choose between Chicago deep dish or thin crust pizza at this branch of the popular Illinois chain. If you find yourself hooked, you can have a frozen pie mailed to your home. 439 N. Wells St. y 312/ 828-9800. www.loumalnatis.com. Pizzas start at $11. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. El: Brown Line to Merchandise Mart. Map p 98.

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104 daily. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 98.

★ M i l k & H o n ey C a f é UKRAINIAN VILLAGE BREAKFAST Set on a hopping strip of restaurants and shops in this newly gentrified neighborhood, this cafe offers a refreshing twist on breakfast and lunch in a bright and airy setting. Don’t miss the orange brioche French toast or crab cake with chipotle mayo on a baguette. 1920 W. Division St. y 773/395-9434. Entrees under $9. AE, MC, V. Breakfast & lunch daily from 8am; weekend brunch from 8am. Map p 97. ★★★ M i ra i S u s h i BUCKTOWN/WICKER PARK JAPANESE Blending a serious devotion to sushi and sake with a youthful and funky ambience, here’s the best place in town to slurp down sushi and “red ones,” the house cocktail of vodka with passion fruit, lime, and cranberry juices. 2020 W. Division St. y 773/862-8500. Sushi $1.75–$4 per piece. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Dinner daily. El: Blue Line to Division. Map p 97. ★★★ N o r t h Po n d C a f é LINCOLN PARK AMERICAN This secluded, Arts and Crafts–style retreat offers dramatic vistas from its location inside Lincoln Park. Meals are crafted from organic, locally grown ingredients. The All-American wine list focuses on boutique vintages. 2610 N. Cannon Dr. (south of Diversey Pkwy.). y 773/477-5845. www.northpondrestaurant.com. Entrees $24–$30. AE, DC, MC, V. Dinner Tues–Sun; brunch Sun. Bus: 151. Map p 99.

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★★ O ra n g e LAKEVIEW AMERICAN Breakfast, lunch, and multiple combinations of the two is all that this casual (and orange) restaurant serves. Creative variations on traditional favorites include panseared cut oatmeal with dried fruit compote and apple cider–brown

sugar syrup. 3231 N. Clark (north of Belmont). y 773/549-4400. Entrees $5–$12. DISC, MC, V. Breakfast & lunch Tues–Sun. El: Red Line to Belmont. Map p 99.

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★★ T h e P h o e n i x CHINATOWN CHINESE/DIM SUM Expect speedy and friendly service, immense dining rooms, and tables filled with families enjoying Cantonese cuisine ranging from shrimp dumplings to sticky rice wrapped in leaves. Arrive early if you want to sample the dim sum. 2131 S. Archer Ave. y 312/328-0848. Entrees $8–$15. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. Dim sum service: Mon–Fri 9am–3pm, Sat–Sun 8am–3pm. El: Red Line to Cermak/ Chinatown. Map p 98. ★★ P i c c o l o S o g n o WEST TOWN ECLECTIC The most beautiful alfresco dining spot in the city is the 150-seat garden full of plants and light-illuminated trees at this Italian restaurant. Try the wood-fired white pizza or slow-roasted pork. 464 N. Halsted St. (at Grand Ave.). y 312/ 2421-0077. Entrees $15–$25. AE, DC, MC, V. Dinner daily. El: Blue Line to Grand Ave. Map p 98. Posh RL is a prime dining spot for steaks and other classic American dishes.

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= Po t b e l l y S a n d w i c h

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★

W o r k s MAGNIFICENT MILE SANDWICHES This popular branch of a local chain serves up a mean grilled sub sandwich, prepared on homemade rolls with turkey, Italian meats, veggies, and more. 520 N. Michigan Ave. (in the Westfield North Bridge shopping center). y 312/664-1008. www.potbelly.com. Sandwiches under $5. No credit cards. Lunch & dinner daily. El: Red Line to Grand/State. Map p 98.

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★★★ R e d H e n B re a d WICKER PARK BAKERY Choose from more than 24 varieties of freshly baked breads, including multigrain, Italian roasted garlic ring, and chocolate. You can also order tasty sandwiches or pastries and eat them at this tiny storefront shop. They’ve also opened a Lakeview location, at 500 W. Diversey St. (y 773/248-6025). 1623 N. Milwaukee Ave. y 773/342-6823. Loaves under $5. AE, MC, V. Open 7am–7pm Mon–Sat; 8am–5pm Sun. El: Blue Line to Damen. Map p 97. ★★★ R L MAGNIFICENT MILE STEAKHOUSE Ralph Lauren’s first venture into the restaurant business is this posh and clubby spot adjacent to his Michigan Avenue emporium. It serves excellent steaks and classic American retro dishes (flaming steak Diane, Waldorf salad, Dover sole). 115 E. Chicago Ave. y 312/475-1100. www.rlrestaurant.com. Entrees $15– $31. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 98. ★★ S a l o o n S t e a k h o u s e STREETERVILLE STEAKHOUSE Warm and cheery, this place is usually filled with happy, animated carnivores eating the specialty 16-ounce bone-in filet mignon and bacon-scallion mashed potatoes. 200 E. Chestnut St. (at Mies van der Rohe Way). y 312/280-5454.

Fresh crabs are just one of the many tasty seafood offerings on the menu at Shaw’s Crab House.

www.saloonsteakhouse.com. Entrees $13–$35. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Mon–Fri; dinner daily. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 98.

★★★ S h a n g h a i Te r ra c e MAGNIFICENT MILE ASIAN The Cantonese cuisine and Shanghai supper club decor reflect the Peninsula Hotel Group’s renowned Asian properties. The outdoor terrace overlooking Michigan Avenue is ideal for a warm-weather cocktail. In the Peninsula Hotel, 108 E. Superior St. (at Michigan Ave.). y 312/337-2888. Reservations recommended. Entrees $15–$25. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Dinner Tues–Sat. El: Red Line to Chicago/ State. Map p 98. ★ S h aw ’s C ra b H o u s e a n d B l u e C ra b Lo u n g e RIVER NORTH SEAFOOD A 1940s-style local institution, Shaw’s has a lively atmosphere and an extensive seafood menu featuring fried smelt, sautéed sea scallops, and grilled fish, among other fare. The adjacent Blue Crab Lounge offers an extensive raw bar that will please even the most sophisticated seafood lover, and live

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jazz or blues. 21 E. Hubbard St. (at State St.). y 312/527-2722. www. shawscrabhouse.com/chicago.html. Reservations accepted. Entrees $14–$31. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Mon–Fri; dinner daily. El: Red Line to State/Grand. Map p 98. ★ S u s h i S a m b a R i o RIVER NORTH ASIAN/SOUTH AMERICAN A mix of Japanese-Brazilian-Peruvian cuisine, a dramatic dining room, a sushi bar, and a caipirinha (traditional Brazilian cocktail) bar makes this one of the trendiest restaurants in town. 504 N. Wells St. y 312/595-2300. www. sushisamba.com. Reservations required for main dining room. Entrees $15–$25. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. El: Brown Line to Chicago. Map p 98. ★★ Te x a s d e B ra z i l RIVER NORTH STEAKHOUSE This crazy-huge restaurant seats 500 guests and features aerial wine artists, who bring your bottle while affixed to a trapeze-like system. That, plus an unending supply of grilled meats and 75-item salad bar, makes this $48 prix-fixe deal entertaining as well as filling. 51 E. Ohio St. y 312/ 670-1006. Prix fixe. $28 salad bar only. AE, DISC, MC, V. Dinner nightly. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 98. ★★ Tra t t o r i a N o . 1 0 THE LOOP ITALIAN This ideal pre-theater dinner spot has a Tuscan feel, with a warm, orangey glow. The real bargain is the wonderful (and cheap) after-work (5–8pm) all-you-can-eat buffet. 10 N. Dearborn St. (at Madison St.). y 312/984-1718. Entrees $14–$27; buffet $12, with a $6 drink minimum. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Mon–Fri; dinner Mon–Sat. El: Red or Blue line to Dearborn. Map p 98.

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★★★ Tw i n A n c h o rs Tav e r n OLD TOWN BARBECUE This

Italian favorites complement the al fresco dining space at Piccolo Sogno.

unpretentious pub dates back to Prohibition and preserves the style of old Chicago in dark mahogany and serviceable Formica. The restaurant’s slow-cooked baby back ribs (go for the zesty sauce) keep people coming back. 1655 N. Sedgwick St. (1 block north of North Ave.). y 312/266-1616. www. twinanchorsribs.com. Entrees $10–$20. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Sat–Sun; dinner daily. El: Brown Line to Sedgwick. Map p 99.

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★★★ W i s h b o n e RANDOLPH STREET MARKET DISTRICT CAJUN/ SOUTHERN Primitive art decorates this bright, open restaurant, which is always bustling with loyal locals. The down-home Southern fare is reasonably priced and hearty, and the excellent Sunday brunch is justifiably popular (but can get very crowded). 1001 W. Washington St. (at Morgan St.). y 312/850-2663. www.wishbonechicago.com. Entrees $5.25–$14. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Breakfast & lunch daily; dinner Tues–Sat. Bus: 20. Map p 98.

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N i g h t l i fe Best Bets Best V i e n n e s e C o f f e e ★★ Julius Meinl Café, 3601 N. Southport Ave. and 4363 N. Lincoln Ave. (p 117)

Best B a r Fo o d ★★ The Hopleaf Bar, 5148 N. Clark St. (p 63)

Most K i t s c h ★ Marie’s Rip Tide Lounge, 1745 W. Armitage Ave. (p 114)

Best H a p py H o u r ★★ J Bar, in The James Hotel, 610 N. Rush St. (p 114)

The Green Mill is the place in Chicago for jazz music.

Best La t e - N i g h t N o s h i n g ★★★ BIN 36, 339 N. Dearborn St. (p 113)

Best V i ew ★★ Signature Lounge, 875 N. Michigan Ave. (p 115)

Best I r i s h P u b ★★ Kitty O’Shea’s, 720 S. Michigan Ave. (p 114)

Best Place to W a t c h S o c c e r ★★ Sheffield’s, 3258 N. Sheffield Ave. (p 115)

Best R o c k C l u b ★★ Elbo Room, 2871 N. Lincoln Ave. (p 118)

Best R e s t o re d Tav e r n ★★★ The California Clipper, 1002 N. California Ave. (p 118)

Best B l u e s C l u b ★★★ Buddy Guy’s Legends, 754 S. Wabash Ave. (p 116)

Best S p o r t s B a r ★ Cubby Bear, 1059 W. Addison St. (p 113)

Best N e i g h b o r h o o d H a n g o u t ★ Old Town Ale House, 219 W. North Ave. (p 115)

Best S c o t t i s h P u b ★ The Duke of Perth, 2913 N. Clark St. (p 113)

Best C h a m p a g n e B a r ★★ Pops for Champagne, 601 N. State St. (p 115)

Best M a r t i n i ★★ The Matchbox, 770 N. Milwaukee Ave. (p 115)

Best B ow l i n g a n d Lo u n g e Combo ★★ 10pin 330 N. State St. (p 116)

Best W i n e B a r ★★★ Bin 36, 339 N. Dearborn St. (p 113), and Bin Wine Café, 1559 N. Milwaukee Ave. (p 113)

Best M e c c a fo r B e e r Lo v e rs ★★★ The Map Room, 1949 N. Hoyne Ave. (p 114)

Best F i n d ★★★ The Hideout, 1354 W. Wabansia Ave. (p 118)

Best H o t e l B a r ★★★ J Bar, in The James Hotel, 610 N. Rush St. (p 114)

Best J a z z C l u b ★★★ The Green Mill, 4802 N. Broadway (p 118)

Previous page: The blues can be heard at venues around the city.

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E. 11th St. Piano Bar 1 The Berghoff 16 Fado 4 Redhead Bin 36 14 House of Blues 15 Rockit Bar & Grill 11 Blue Chicago 3 J Bar 8 Signature Lounge 9 Buddy Guy’s Legends 18 W. Roosevelt Jilly’s 6 Rd. Sound-Bar 2 Celtic Crossings 5 Kitty O’Shea’s 17 Sugar 12 Coq d’Or 7 Pops for Champagne 10 10pin 13 S. Wabash Ave.

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★★ T h e B e rg h o f f THE LOOP This local institution attracts an older, pinstripe-wearing crowd, and holds Chicago liquor license no. 1, issued at the end of Prohibition. It features a good selection of German beers, 20-foot (6m) ceilings, a checked linoleum floor, and sepia photos of old Chicago. German and Austrian food, plus some standard American items, are on the menu. Don’t hesitate—go for the schnitzel. 17 W. Adams St. (at State St.). y 312/4273170. www.berghoff.com. El: Red or Blue line to Jackson/State or Monroe/State. Map p 112.

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★★★ B i n 3 6 RIVER NORTH It’s all about wine at this bistro, located in a lofty, airy space in the Marina Towers complex that attracts young professionals and others on their way to concerts at the adjacent House of Blues. Several wine flights (four halfglasses of various vintages) are available, or try one of the suggested wine-and-cheese pairings (they serve a huge selection of American artisan cheeses until 1:30am and make for ideal late-night noshing). A second location, the Bin Wine Café, has opened in Wicker Park at 1559 N. Milwaukee Ave. (y 773/486-2233). 339 N. Dearborn St. y 312/755-9463. www.bin36.com. El: Red Line to Grand/State. Map p 112. ★★ C e l t i c C ro s s i n g s RIVER NORTH A diverse crowd of the young and the old, the corporate and the artistically minded, gathers around this Irish pub’s fireplaces for quiet conversation over pints of Guinness and Harp. 751 N. Clark St. (near Chicago Ave.). y 312/337-1005. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 112. ★ C u b by B e a r WRIGLEYVILLE Cubs fans and the surrounding

neighborhood’s young professionals head to this tri-level landmark to vent before and/or after games. Pool tables, darts, and TV screens offer diversions. At night, the club is one of Chicago’s premier rock venues. 1059 W. Addison St. (across from Wrigley Field). y 773/3271662. www.cubbybear.com. Concert tickets under $10. El: Red Line to Addison. Map p 110. ★★★ C u l l e n ’s B a r a n d G r i l l LAKEVIEW This Irish watering hole attracts a diverse crowd, from singles to families, and features a large selection of beer and great food, including tasty grilled shrimp and huge Caesar salads. After you’ve downed a pint or two, stick around for the live Celtic music or take in a movie at the old-time Music Box Theatre next door (p 127). 3741 N. Southport Ave. y 773/975-0600. El: Brown Line to Southport. Map p 110. ★ D u ke o f Pe r t h LINCOLN PARK This congenial Scottish pub attracts a young crowd with its reasonably priced all-you-can-eat fish-and-chips special on Wednesdays and Fridays, its selection of single-malt scotch, The Berghoff, a local institution, got the first liquor license in Chicago after Prohibition ended.

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and an outdoor beer garden that’s inviting on summer nights. 2913 N. Clark St. (at Wellington Ave.). y 773/ 477-1741. El: Brown Line to Diversey. Map p 110.

Fa d o RIVER NORTH This multilevel reproduction of an Irish pub features various themed rooms (country cottage, Victorian Dublin, and so on) bursting with people drinking Guinness and eating standard pub grub. Live, traditional Irish music is featured on many nights. 100 W. Grand Ave. (at Clark St.). y 312/836-0066. www.fadoirishpub.com. El: Red Line to State/Grand. Map p 112.

= G o o s e I s l a n d B re w i n g C o m p a n y WRIGLEYVILLE

★★★

The best-known brewpub in town has its own brews on tap (sample three for $5). The enclosed patio is especially family-friendly and provides a beautiful setting for casual dining. There’s a kids’ menu (the baked mac and cheese is popular) if you couldn’t snag a babysitter for the night. Don’t miss the freshly baked pretzels with a choice of Dusseldorf mustard, cheese spread, or marinara sauce. 3535 N. Clark St. (at Sheffield Ave.). y 773/832-9040. www.gooseisland.com. El: Red Line to Addison. Map p 110.

H o l i d ay C l u b UPTOWN Home to Chicago’s most diverse jukebox, plus Golden Tee golf and video poker. This laid-back joint attracts a good-looking young crowd and shakes out gallons of martinis and Manhattans every night. 4000 N. Sheridan Rd. y 773/486-0686. www. swingersmecca.com. El: Red Line to Sheridan. ★★ J B a r The gathering place for stylish locals in their 20s and 30s, this lounge is just off the lobby of The James Hotel. Low-slung leather couches and high-concept drinks (the house martini blends blue raspberry vodka and elderflower cordial)

Head over to Fado for live Irish music, pub grub, and a pint of Guinness.

give this the vibe of an upscale urban club. 610 N. Rush St. (at Wabash Ave.) y 312/660-7200. El: Red Line to Grand. Map p 112. ★★ K i t t y O ’ S h e a’s THE LOOP The brogues at this hotel bar are as authentic as the Guinness on tap. You’ll find live Irish entertainment, a jukebox stacked with favorite Gaelic tunes, and an older crowd enjoying the excellent Irish pub food. In the Chicago Hilton and Towers, 720 S. Michigan Ave. (between Balbo and 8th sts.). y 312/922-4400. El: Red Line to Harrison. Map p 112. ★★★ T h e M a p R o o m BUCKTOWN/WICKER PARK Nearly 200 beers are offered (20 or so are on tap) at this tavern, frequented by an artistic and eclectic crowd of 30somethings from the neighborhood. In the morning, this is a coffee bar; in the late afternoon, the drinks start flowing. Sunday night at 8pm is movie night. 1949 N. Hoyne Ave. (at Armitage Ave.). y 773/252-7636. www.maproom.com. El: Blue Line to Damen. Map p 109. ★ M a r i e’s R i p T i d e Lo u n g e BUCKTOWN/WICKER PARK The retro cool of this late-night dive bar on the after-dark circuit makes

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★★ T h e M a t c h b ox RIVER WEST This tiny corner bar (3 ft./.9m wide at its narrowest; 10 ft./3m at its widest) claims to be “Chicago’s most intimate bar.” It’s not for the claustrophobic, but it’s the perfect spot for a late-night martini. 770 N. Milwaukee Ave. (at Ogden Ave.). y 312/666-9292. El: Blue Line to Chicago. Map p 110. ★ O l d To w n A l e H o u s e OLD TOWN This legendary saloon has played host to many a Second City comedian, including John Belushi, who commanded the pinball machines here during his Second City (p 126) days. A bit dingy, but full of local flavor. 219 W. North Ave. (at Wells St.). y 312/944-7020. El: Brown Line to Sedgwick. Map p 110. ★★ Po p s fo r C h a m p a g n e RIVER NORTH A hot date spot for everyone from 20-somethings on up, this romantic lounge offers more than 100 labels of bubbly, plus live jazz at 9pm nightly in the downstairs jazz lounge. Courtyard and sidewalk cafe, raw bar, jazz lounge—this place has it all. 601 N. State St. (at Ontario St.). y 312/ 266-7677. www.popsforchampagne. com. Jazz lounge cover varies. El: Red Line to Grand. Map p 112. ★★ R o c k i t B a r & G r i l l RIVER NORTH This former lamp factory has exposed brick walls, beams, and a 75-foot (23m) skylight. Dine on upscale grill items (a Kobe beef burger topped with foie gras), then grab a cocktail and hit the pool tables and plasma TVs in the lounge

upstairs. 22 W. Hubbard St. y 312/ 645-6000. El: Brown Line to Merchandise Mart. Map p 112. ★★ R o s c o e’s Ta v e r n LAKEVIEW One of Chicago’s best-known gay nightspots (though everyone’s welcome) has six bars, a huge dance floor, and an antique tavern decor. Check out the patio garden when the weather’s cooperative. 3356 N. Halsted St. (at Roscoe St.). y 773/281-3355. www.roscoes. com. $4 cover after 10pm on Sat. El: Red, Brown, or Purple line to Belmont. Map p 110. ★★ S h e f f i e l d ’s LINCOLN PARK Play pool, golf, or board games at this welcoming neighborhood bar. In the winter, cozy up to the fireplace; in the summer, the outdoor beer garden is one of the city’s best. Choose from 100 beers, including the tongue-in-cheek “bad beer” (think cheap domestic) of the month. 3258 N. Sheffield Ave. (at Belmont Ave.). y 773/281-4989. www.sheffieldschicago.com. El: Red or Brown line to Belmont. Map p 110. ★★ S i g n a t u re Lo u n g e MAGNIFICENT MILE On the 95th floor of the John Hancock Center, this bar is a good place to perch for a drink before or after dinner. Because the A hot spot for romance, Pops for Champagne serves more than 100 varieties of bubbly.

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Marie’s a hoot. It seems like everything here (from the decor to the jukebox music) hasn’t been updated since the ‘60s, though charming owners Shirley and Marie do decorate for the holidays—don’t miss their Christmas and Valentine’s Day decor. 1745 W. Armitage Ave. (at Hermitage Ave.). y 773/278-7317. El: Blue Line to Damen. Map p 109.

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restaurant is on the pricey side, it attracts an older crowd. The view, as you’d expect, is dazzling. 875 N. Michigan Ave. y 312/7877230. www.signatureroom.com. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 112.

★★ 10pin RIVER NORTH A modern interpretation of the classic bowling alley, this lounge is tucked away under the Marina Towers complex on the Chicago River. Everything feels bright and new, and there’s a full menu of designer beers and upscale snacks. A giant video screen overlooking the 24 bowling lanes give the place a nightclub vibe. 330 N. State St. (between Kinzie St. and the Chicago River). y 312/6640300. www.10pinchicago.com. El: Red Line to Grand or Brown Line to Merchandise Mart. Map p 112.

Blues Clubs Blue Chicago RIVER NORTH This popular tourist spot features exposed brick walls, a good sound system, and an intimate atmosphere. It showcases top female blues talent. 736 and 536 N. Clark St. y 312/642-6261. www.blue chicago.com. $5–$8 cover. El: Red Line to State/Grand. Map p 112.

B.L.U.E.S. LINCOLN PARK Live music plays 365 days a year in a dark, narrow club that seats patrons up close to the performers. 2519 N. Halsted St. (at Wrightwood Ave.).

y 773/528-1012. $5–$8 cover. El: Brown Line to Diversey. Map p 110.

★★★ Buddy Guy’s Legends THE LOOP If Chicago is the body and soul of blues music, then this club— owned and operated by rock-’n’-roll Hall-of-Famer Buddy Guy—is its heart. The club’s renowned guitar collection features instruments played by the likes of Eric Clapton and John Lee Hooker. 754 S. Wabash Ave. (between Balbo and 8th sts.).

Mojo Mama, a mural by artist John Carroll Doyle at Blue Chicago, one of the city’s top clubs for female blues artists.

y 312/427-0333. www.buddyguys. com. Usually under $10 cover. El: Red Line to Harrison/State. Map p 112. ★★★ House of Blues RIVER NORTH One of Chicago’s premier concert venues, this multi-level music hall books a wide variety of acts. It stages a popular Sunday gospel brunch featuring good southern fare ($43, with seatings at 10am and 12:30pm; reservations highly recommended). 329 N. Dearborn St. (at Kinzie St.). y 312/9232000. Tickets $10–$50. El: Red Line to State/Grand. Map p 112.

Kingston Mines LINCOLN PARK This veteran roadhouse attracts hard-core fans and celebs with two stages’ worth of down-home blues. Performances last until 4am on Saturdays. 2548 N. Halsted St. (at Wrightwood Ave.). y 773/477-4646. www.kingstonmines.com. $12 cover Sat–Wed. El: Brown Line to Diversey. Map p 110.

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C a b a re t & P i a n o B a rs C o q d ’ O r MAGNIFICENT MILE This piano bar and lounge showcases pianists and vocalists 7 nights a week, from 9:30pm to 1:30am. It’s a classy place, where you can join the older crowd and indulge in a martini, a specialty of the house, and enjoy the dark, speak-easy atmosphere. In The Drake Hotel, 140 E. Walton St. y 312/787-2200. No cover. El: Red Line to Chicago/ State. Map p 112.

J i l l y ’s GOLD COAST Jazz trios and piano stylists play this dark room, named after Frank Sinatra’s manager. It attracts a middle-aged crowd, as well as the occasional celeb. Drink prices aren’t cheap, but there’s no cover charge. 1007 N. Rush St. (at Oak St.). y 312/6641001. www.jillyschicago.com. No cover. El: Red Line to Clark/Divison. Map p 112. R e d h e a d P i a n o B a r RIVER NORTH A favorite with locals, this upscale lounge features top-notch pianists and makes a great spot for after-dinner cocktails. Dress well. 16 W. Ontario. y 312/640-1000. www. redheadpianobar.com. El: Red Line to State/Grand. Map p 112. ★ Z e b ra Lo u n g e GOLD COAST Black-and-white striped walls are the key to the decor at this shoe

box–size piano bar. The multi-generational, loyal crowd gets raucous late in the evening; arrive by 9:30pm if you want to get a seat. 1220 N. State Pkwy. (between Division and Goethe sts.). y 312/642-5140. Subway/El: Red Line to Clark/Division. Map p 110.

C a fe s ★★ J u l i u s M e i n l C a f é LAKEVIEW The venerable Austrian coffee empire chose Chicago for its first attempt at re-creating a Viennese coffeehouse in the U.S., and has since opened a second location. The excellent coffee is served on a silver tray with a glass of water, but the luscious desserts are why locals flock here. 3601 N. Southport Ave. (at Addison St.; y 773/868-1857), and 4363 N. Lincoln Ave. (y 773/ 868-1876). www.meinl.com. El: Brown Line to Southport. Map p 110. ★★★ U n c o m m o n G ro u n d WRIGLEYVILLE More than just a coffeehouse, this bohemian cafe’s soul-warming bowls of coffee are accompanied by California-influenced cuisine that’s heavy on vegetarian dishes, accompanied by live music nightly. Local artists display their work here on a rotating basis. A second location has opened in Edgewater. 3800 N. Clark St. (at Grace St.; y 773/929-3680), and 1401 W. Devon Ave. (y 773/4659801). www.uncommonground.com. El: Red Line to Addison. Map p 110. A local favorite, the Redhead Piano Bar features top-notch pianists.

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★★ S m o ke D a d d y R h y t h m a n d B a r- B - Q u e BUCKTOWN/ WICKER PARK A great bar with live music 7 nights a week (mostly gritty, Chicago-style blues and jazz, played by small combos, due to the bar’s intimate size). Arrive early if you want to sample the excellent slowcooked barbecue, which arrives in retro plastic baskets. 1804 W. Division St. y 773/772-6656. No cover with dinner; cover varies for entertainment only. El: Blue Line to Damen. Map p 109.

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L i ve M u s i c ★★★ T h e C a l i fo r n i a C l i p p e r HUMBOLDT PARK This lovingly restored 1940s tavern, with a gorgeous Art Deco bar and red walls, is worth a trip out to Humboldt Park on the weekends for its live rockabilly and “country swing.” 1002 N. California Ave. y 773/384-2547. www.californiaclipper.com. El: Blue Line to California, then take a cab. Map p 110. ★★ E l b o R o o m LINCOLN PARK The eclectic acts at this small live music venue range from hip-hop to Goth to rockabilly. The crowds are equally diverse. 2871 N. Lincoln Ave. (at George St.). y 773/549-5549. www.elboroomchicago.com. $3 and up cover; no cover in the upstairs lounge. El: Brown Line to Diversey. Map p 110. ★★★ T h e G re e n M i l l UPTOWN Known for offering great jazz in a historical setting, this former speakeasy was established in 1907 and frequented by infamous mobster Al Capone. Today you can hear Latin jazz, big band jazz, jazz piano, and more. Sunday nights it hosts the famous Uptown Poetry Slam with Though it’s off the beaten path, The Hideout features a friendly crowd and the best folk bands in the city.

Marc Smith (p. 129). 4802 N. Broadway (at Lawrence Ave.). y 773/8785552. Free–$8 cover. El: Red Line to Lawrence. Map p 110. ★★★ T h e H i d e o u t NEAR NORTH SIDE Head to this friendly tavern for the best lineup of folk and “alt country” bands in the city. The location epitomizes the term “out of the way,” but it’s worth the trip (about a $10 cab ride from the Magnificent Mile). 1354 W. Wabansia Ave. (between Elston Ave. and Throop St.). y 773/ 227-4433. www.hideoutchicago.com. Usually $5–$10 cover. El: Blue Line to Damen. Map p 109.

Nightclubs ★★★ S m a r t B a r WRIGLEYVILLE One of the coolest clubs in Chicago is tucked away in the dimly lit basement of Metro, one of Chicago’s best live rock venues. DJs here do some serious spinning; every night features a different style of music. 3730 N. Clark St. y 773/549-0203. www.smartbarchicago.com. Cover usually $5–$15. El: Red Line to Addison. Map p 110. ★ S o u n d - B a r RIVER NORTH DJs are the draw at this multilevel, hightech dance club, which prides itself on booking top nightlife names. The young, club-savvy crowd comes for electronic dance, trance, and house music. If you want a primer on Chicago house music, this is a good place to start. 226 W. Ontario St. (at Franklin St.). y 312/787-4480.Cover $10–$20. El: Red Line to Grand. Map p 112.

T h e W i l d H a re WRIGLEYVILLE Dreadlocks and Red Stripe beer abound at Chicago’s premier reggae club, which has hosted such notables as the Wailers and Yellowman. 3530 N. Clark St. (at Addison St.). y 773/327-4273. No cover until 9:30pm Mon–Tues; otherwise $8–$12. El: Red Line to Addison. Map p 110.

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★★★ Music Box Theatre, 3733 W. Southport Ave. (p 127)

★★ Hubbard Street Dance Chicago, 205 E. Randolph St. (p 126)

Best S y m p h o n y ★★ Chicago Symphony Orchestra, 220 S. Michigan Ave. (p 125)

Best La t e - N i g h t C o m e d y Late-Nite Catechism, 1641 N. Halsted St. (p 129)

Best G u a ra n t e e d La u g h ★★★ Blue Man Group, 3133 N. Halsted St. (p 127)

Best U p - a n d - C o m i n g Comedians ★★★ ImprovOlympic, 3541 N. Clark St. (p 125) If you need a good laugh, the Blue Man Group’s the best place in town to get it.

Best Ve n u e fo r Wo r l d P re m i e re T h e a t e r ★★★ Victory Gardens Biograph Theater, 2243 N. Lincoln Ave. (p 130)

r

Best C h i l d re n ’s F i l m Fe s t i va l Facets Multi-Media, 1517 W. Fullerton Ave. (p 126)

Best D i n n e r T h e a t e r S h ow Tommy Gun’s Garage, 2114 S. Wabash Ave. (p 129)

Union Station

Best Ve n u e fo r Po p u l a r M u s i c ★★ Park West, 322 W. Armitage Ave. (p 125)

Best S p o r t s E x p e r i e n c e ★★★ Wrigley Field, 1060 W. Addison St. (p 130)

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Best S u n d ay N i g h t A c t i v i t y ★★ Uptown Poetry Slam with Marc Smith, 4802 N. Broadway (p 129)

Best C h e a p T i c ke t i n To w n Too Much Light Makes the Baby Go Blind, 5153 N. Ashland Ave. (p 129)

Best C h i l d re n ’s T h e a t e r ★★ Emerald City Theater Company, 2540 N. Lincoln Ave. (p 128)

Previous page: Hubbard Street Dance Chicago.

S. Canal St.

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Classical Music & Concer ts ★ C h i c a g o C u l t u ra l C e n t e r THE LOOP Free Dame Myra Hess Memorial classical concerts take place every Wednesday in the Preston Bradley Hall. Other free concerts are often staged here in the afternoons; check the events line for current schedules. See p 19, 1. 78 E. Washington St. y 312/744-6630, or 312/FINE-ART for weekly events. El: Brown Line to Randolph, or Red Line to Washington/State. Map p 121. ★★ C h i c a g o S y m p h o n y O rchestra THE LOOP One of the best and oldest symphony orchestras in the world performs a varied repertoire of classical works at Orchestra Hall from September to June. The “Symphony Center Presents” series features top jazz, world beat, Latin, and cabaret artists. Symphony Center, 220 S. Michigan Ave. (at Jackson St.). y 312/294-3000. www.cso.org. Tickets $25–$135. El: Red Line to Jackson/State. Map p 121.

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★ N o r t h S h o re C e n t e r f o r t h e Pe r fo r m i n g A r t s SUBURBAN SKOKIE Opened in 1996, this stateof-the-art complex has earned comparisons to Washington, D.C.’s Kennedy Center. It’s currently the home of the respected Northlight Theater, the Skokie Valley Symphony Orchestra, and a series of touring acts, including comics, dance troupes, and children’s programs. 9501 Skokie Blvd. (at Golf Rd.). y 847/673-6300. www.north shorecenter.org. Tickets $25–$50. Take I-90 to Old Orchard Rd. exit; turn right on Old Orchard Rd., and drive past Old Orchard Mall. Turn right on Skokie Blvd. Map p 124. ★★ Pa r k We s t LINCOLN PARK Performers love this venue’s excellent sound system and cabaret-style

The Chicago Symphony Orchestra, under the direction of Daniel Barenboim, is one of the finest in the world.

seating. You can hear artists such as Sarah McLachlan and Tori Amos to their best advantage here. 322 W. Armitage Ave. y 773/929-5959. www.parkwestchicago.com. Tickets $25 and up, depending on the act. Subway/El: Brown Line to Armitage. Map p 122. ★★★ R av i n i a Fe s t i va l SUBURBAN HIGHLAND PARK Locals flock to this do-not-miss outdoor festival from mid-June through Labor Day. The park is the unofficial summer home of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra. Performances by dance troupes and jazz and pop performers round out the calendar. 418 Sheridan Rd., Highland Park. y 847/ 266-5100. www.ravinia.org. Tickets $10 for lawn seating, $25–$50 for the pavilion. Map p 124.

Comedy Clubs ★★★ I m p ro v O l y m p i c WRIGLEYVILLE See some of Chicago’s top comedic talent stretch their wings. Performances here engage the audience as the talented cast solicits suggestions and

A r t s & E n t e r t a i n m e n t A to Z

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creates original sketches. 3541 N. Clark St. (at Addison St.). y 773/ 880-0199. Cover $5–$14. El: Red Line to Addison. Map p 122. ★★★ Th e S e c o n d C i t y OLD TOWN Comedians ranging from Mike Nichols to Dan Ackroyd have studied and performed at this Chicago institution. Two sketchcomedy productions run on the main stage and at ETC (et cetera), a smaller venue. If you just want a quick sampling, free improv sessions take place every night except Friday after the main show. 1616 N. Wells St. (at North Ave.). y 312/337-3992. www.secondcity.com. Cover $8–$19. El: Brown Line to Sedgwick. Map p 122.

Z a n i e s C o m e d y N i t e C l u b OLD TOWN High-caliber comedians treat sold-out houses to the best in traditional stand-up. 1548 N. Wells St. (at North Ave.). y 312/337-4027. www. chicago.zanies.com. Cover $19–$20, with a 2-item food/drink minimum. Guests must be age 21 or older to enter. El: Brown Line to Sedgwick. Map p 122. A Chicago institution, The Second City stages performances by some of the finest comedians in the country.

Dance ★★ H u b b a r d S t re e t D a n c e C h i c a g o THE LOOP This 22-member troupe, Chicago’s best-known dance company, incorporates elements of jazz, ballet, theater, and modern dance into its exhilarating performances. At the Joan W. and Irving B. Harris Theater for Music and Dance, 205 E. Randolph St. (Millennium Park). y 312/334-7777. www.hubbardstreetdance.com. Tickets about $35. El: Red Line to Lake or Brown Line to Randolph. Map p 121. ★★ J o f f re y B a l l e t o f C h i c a g o SOUTH LOOP Founded in 1956 in New York, the Joffrey moved into the Joffrey Tower, its new home, in 2008. Each December, Joffrey stages a popular rendition of the holiday favorite, The Nutcracker. Other performances focus on classic works of the 20th century. 10 E. Randolph St. y 312/386-8907. www.joffrey.com. Tickets about $75. Map p 121.

Film

= Fa c e t s M u l t i - M e d i a LAKEVIEW This nonprofit group screens independent and experimental films from around the world at its Cinematheque Theatre. Its collection of children’s films is the most extensive in the U.S., and it also hosts the Chicago International Children’s Film Festival (Oct–Nov), the largest such festival in the country. 1517 W. Fullerton Ave. y 773/281-9075; 773/281-4114 for program information and showtimes. www.facets.org. Tickets $9. El: Red or Brown line to Fullerton. Map p 122. ★ G e n e S i s ke l F i l m C e n t e r THE LOOP Named after the late Chicago Tribune film critic, this theater for serious film buffs is part of the School of the Art Institute of Chicago. It offers an array of foreign, art, and experimental films, as well as lectures and discussions with

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Bargain hunters rejoice: The Le a g u e o f C h i c a g o T h e a t re s (y 312/554-9800; www.chicagoplays.com) operates a telephone hotline that features a daily listing of discounted shows. The call costs $1 per minute, with calls lasting an average of 3 minutes. H o t T i x (y 312/554-9800; www.hottix.org), operated by the League of Chicago Theatres, sells same-day, half-price tickets, online and in person. On Friday, you can buy tickets for weekend productions. Tickets are available at two locations (they must be bought in person), off of Michigan Avenue at the Water Works Visitor Center, 163 E. Pearson St., and in the Loop at 78 W. Randolph St., just east of Clark Street. Hot Tix now accepts major credits cards. The Steppenwolf Theatre Company’s box office usually sells a limited number of half-price, same-day seats. The “Tix at Six” program at the Goodman Theatre offers half-price, day-of-show tickets at the box office at 6pm for evening performances, noon for matinees.

filmmakers. 164 N. State St. y 312/ 846-2600. www.siskelfilmcenter.org. Tickets $4–$9. El: Red Line to Washington or Brown Line to Randolph. Map p 121. ★★★ M u s i c B ox T h e a t re LAKEVIEW This atmospheric movie house, designed to re-create the open-air feeling of an Italian courtyard, opened in 1929. The nowrestored theater screens cult, independent, classic, and foreign films. 3733 W. Southport Ave. y 773/871-6604. www.musicbox theatre.com. Tickets $9. El: Brown Line to Southport. Map p 122.

704-8414. www.chicagooperatheater. org. Tickets $35–$115. El: Red Line to Randolph. Map p 121.

★★★ Ly r i c O p e ra o f C h i c a g o THE LOOP One of the country’s premier opera companies stages lavish productions headlined by the world’s top talent. It sells out its season (Sept–Mar) far in advance, but you can usually get turn-back tickets just before a performance. Civic Opera House, 20 N. Wacker Dr. y 312/332-2244. www.lyricopera. org. Tickets $40–$600. El: Brown Line to Washington. Map p 121.

Theater O p e ra C h i c a g o O p e ra T h e a t e r THE LOOP English-language productions and relatively low ticket prices appeal to this opera company’s broad audience. The season runs from February to May and usually focuses on the works of American composers. At the Joan W. and Irving B. Harris Theater for Music and Dance, 205 E. Randolph Dr. (Millennium Park). y 312/

★★★ B l u e M a n G ro u p LINCOLN PARK Originally an off-Broadway show that ripped early 1990s performance art (all in good fun), the Blue Man Group’s mix of percussion, mime, and music has taken on a life of its own. The troupe has been so successful that they bought their own theater—so expect them to be in Chicago a good long while. At Briar Street Theatre, 3133 N. Halsted

A r t s & E n t e r t a i n m e n t A to Z

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128 St. (at Briar St.). y 773/348-4000. Tickets $49–$59. El: Brown Line to Wellington. Map p 122.

★★★ C h i c a g o S h a ke s p e a re T h e a t e r NAVY PIER A stunning 525-seat theater—patterned loosely after the Swan Theatre in StratfordUpon-Avon—is the backdrop for top-notch performances of Shakespeare’s works. Avoid the upper balcony seats if you’re not fond of heights. 800 E. Grand Ave. (at the tip of Navy Pier). y 312/595-5600. www.chicagoshakes.com. Tickets $48–$65. El: Red Line to State/ Grand then free trolley to Navy Pier. Map p 121. ★★ E m e ra l d C i t y T h e a t re C o m p a n y LAKEVIEW This relative newcomer to the kids’ theater scene, named for The Wizard of Oz, stages four shows a year for kids age 2 and up. Productions range from Tarzan and Jane to Dr. Seuss classics. At the Apollo Theater, 2540 N. Lincoln Ave. y 773/935-6100. www.emerald citytheatre.com. Tickets $15 for

The Emerald City Theatre Company stages productions aimed at the young set.

adults; $12 for kids. El: Red or Brown line to Fullerton. Map p 122.

★★★ G o o d m a n T h e a t re THE LOOP Dean of the legitimate theaters in Chicago, the Goodman produces both original works and familiar standards in a customdesigned home (p 31, ). Production values are top-notch and the acting first-rate (Denzel Washington,

D

F i n d i n g O u t W h a t ’s P l ay i n g Getting connected to the Chicago fine-arts scene requires only a phone call to T h e C h i c a g o D a n c e a n d M u s i c A l l i a n c e i n fo r m a t i o n l i n e (y 312/987-1123; www.chicagoperformances.org), which features listings of upcoming events. Other useful tools are the Chicago Tribune (www.chicagotribune. com) and its dining/entertainment/nightlife website, www.metromix. com; Chicago Sun-Times (www.suntimes.com); and Daily Herald (www. dailyherald.com) newspapers, which offer comprehensive weekly listings in their Friday entertainment sections. The papers also run reviews of larger shows around town; for older reviews, check their websites. Other reliable sources of reviews and commentary are Chicago (www.chicagomag.com) and North Shore (www.northshoremag.com) magazines. To find out about out-of-the-mainstream performances, pick up the Chicago Reader (www.chicagoreader.com) and New City (www.newcitychicago.com), the leading free alternative newspapers.

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La t e - N i t e C a t e c h i s m LINCOLN PARK Catechism class is in session nightly at this long-running, humorous show. Audience participation is part of the experience, so be prepared to make your own true confessions to the nuns. At the Royal George Theater Center, 1641 N. Halsted St. y 312/988-9000. www.late nitecatechism.info. Tickets $30. El: Red Line to North/Clybourn. Map p 122. ★★★ Lo o k i n g g l a s s T h e a t re C o m p a n y MAGNIFICENT MILE This up-and-comer, founded by Northwestern theater grads more than a decade ago, stages several surprising and original productions each year. In The Water Tower Pumping Station, 821 N. Michigan Ave. y 312/337-0665. www.lookingglass theatre.org. Tickets $30–$60. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 124. ★ S t e p p e n wo l f T h e a t re C o m p a n y LINCOLN PARK Focusing on original, edgy drama, this veteran company has launched the careers of many well-respected actors, including Joan Allen, John Malkovich, and Gary Sinise. A number of the original works and classic revivals staged at the company’s state-ofthe-art complex go on to Broadway. 1650 N. Halsted St. (at North Ave.). y 312/335-1650. www.steppenwolf. org. Tickets $20–$55. El: Red Line to North/Clybourn. Map p 122.

To m m y G u n ’s G a ra g e SOUTH LOOP A cut above the usual tourist fare, this dinner theater puts on a vaudeville show filled with 1920s-era gangsters, flappers, and

The Lookingglass Theatre Company is renowned for its innovative productions.

gigolos. The food’s not bad, either: choose from five entrees (ranging from prime rib to lasagna), and finish your meal off with tiramisu or carrot cake. 2114 S. Wabash Ave. (at E. 21st St.). y 312/225-0273. Shows run Thurs–Sun nights. 3course dinner and show $50–$60. Subway/El: Red Line to Cermak/Chinatown. Map p 121.

To o M u c h L i g h t M a ke s t h e B a by G o B l i n d NORTH SIDE The longest-running show in town offers 30 “plays” (sketches ranging in tone from humorous to touching) in 60 minutes—a bargain at any price. Seats are first-come, first-served, so arrive at least an hour before the curtain goes up. At the Neo-Futurarium, 5153 N. Ashland Ave. y 773/ 275-5255. Shows run Fri–Sun 11:30pm; Sun 7pm. Tickets $7, plus an amount determined by the number on a roll of a die. El: Red Line to Berwyn. Map p 124. ★★ U p t ow n Po e t r y S l a m a t T h e G re e n M i l l UPTOWN Poets vie for an open mic to roast and ridicule each other’s work every Sunday night at a former speak-easy that’s a real Chicago treasure. At The Green Mill. 4802 N. Broadway (at Lawrence Ave.). y 773/878-5552. Cover $6. Subway/El: Red Line to Lawrence. Map p 124.

A r t s & E n t e r t a i n m e n t A to Z

William Hurt, and Brian Dennehy have all performed here). 170 N. Dearborn St. (at Randolph St.). y 312/443-3800. www.goodman theatre.org. Tickets $30–$50 main stage, $10–$40 studio. El: Red Line to Washington/State, Brown or Orange line to Clark/Lake. Map p 121.

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130 ★★★ V i c t o r y G a r d e n s T h e a t e r a t t h e B i o g ra p h LINCOLN PARK The third Chicago theater (after the Steppenwolf and the Goodman) to win a Tony Award for sustained excellence by a regional theater. All the shows staged here, on the main stage in the historic Biograph Theater, are world premieres (usually by developing playwrights), and they’re always provocative and well acted. 2433 N. Lincoln Ave. (at Belden Ave.). y 773/871-3000. www.victorygardens.org. Tickets $15–$40. El: Brown Line to Diversey. Map p 122.

Spectator Spor ts S o l d i e r F i e l d SOUTH LOOP Renovations have vastly improved the amenities at the formerly shabby home of the NFL’s Chicago Bears (and Major League Soccer’s Chicago Fire). It’s a Chicago tradition to brave the often-brutal weather conditions as the wind blows in off Lake Michigan to cheer on the Bears as they battle their archenemy, the Green Bay Packers. 1600 S. Lake Shore Dr. y 847/295-6600. www. chicagobears.com. Tickets $45–$300. El: Red or Orange line to Roosevelt. Map p 121.

U n i t e d C e n t e r WEST LOOP Home of the Chicago Bulls (who won six NBA titles in the 1990s), this massive stadium is alive and kicking again now that the team is back in U.S. Cellular Field, home of the 2005 World Series Champion White Sox.

Chicago practically worships its beloved Bears, and the best place to see that NFL team is Soldier Field.

contention. The NHL’s Chicago Blackhawks also call the United Center home. Outside of sports, you can also catch concerts (U2 and Springsteen, among others), circuses, and ice shows here. 1901 W. Madison St. y 312/455-4500. www. unitedcenter.com. Tickets start at $10 and climb, depending on the event. Bus: 20, 50, or 19. Map p 121.

U . S . C e l l u l a r F i e l d BRIDGEPORT Home of the Chicago White Sox and their blue-collar, Cubs-loathing Southside fans. The ballpark features excellent sightlines and amenities, and tickets are easier to come by here than at Wrigley. 333 W. 35th St. y 312/674-1000. Tickets $14–$41. www.whitesox.mlb.com. El: Red Line to Sox/35th St. Map p 124. ★★★ W r i g l ey F i e l d WRIGLEYVILLE Whether the Cubs win or lose, a visit to their home field is a don’t-miss Chicago experience (and tickets tend to sell out accordingly). This baseball mecca is pure magic, from its ivycovered walls to the hand-operated scoreboard and views of shimmering Lake Michigan from the upper deck. 1060 W. Addison St. y 773/404CUBS. www.cubs.mlb.com. Tickets $13 and up. El: Red Line to Addison. Map p 122.

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H o t e l Best Bets Most L u x u r i o u s ★★★ Ritz-Carlton Chicago $$$$ 160 E. Pearson St. (p 141)

Best B u s i n e s s H o t e l ★★★ Swissotel $$$$ 323 E. Wacker Dr. (p 142)

Best V i ew s ★★ Trump International Hotel and Tower $$$$ 401 N. Wabash Ave. (p 143)

Most H i s t o r i c H o t e l ★★ The Drake Hotel $$$$ 140 E. Walton Place (p 137)

The luxurious but unpretentious Park Hyatt features the city’s best bathrooms.

H i p p e s t Hotel

Most R o m a n t i c

★★ Sofitel Chicago Water Tower $$$–$$$$ 20 E. Chestnut St. (p 141)

Best B e d & B re a k fa s t ★ Windy City Urban Inn $$–$$$ 607 W. Deming Place (p 144)

Best H o t e l Aw ay f ro m t h e Magnificent Mile ★★★ Westin Chicago River North $$$–$$$$ 320 N. Dearborn St. (p 143)

Best M o d e ra t e l y P r i c e d H o t e l ★ Best Western Hawthorne Terrace $–$$ 3434 N. Broadway (p 136)

Best Fa m i l y H o t e l ★★ Embassy Suites Chicago Lakeshore $$–$$$ 511 N. Columbus Dr. (p 137)

Best B a t h ro o m s ★★★ Park Hyatt $$$$ 800 N. Michigan Ave. (p 140)

Best C h e a p B e d ★ Red Roof Inn $ 162 E. Ontario St. (p 141)

Best S w i m m i n g Po o l ★ InterContinental Chicago $$$ 505 N. Michigan Ave. (p 140)

Previous page: The House of Blues Hotel.

★★ Whitehall Hotel $$$ 105 E. Delaware Place (p 144)

Most C o m fo r t a b l e ★★★ Talbott Hotel $$$ 20 E. Delaware Place (p 142)

Best Lo b by ★ Chicago Hilton and Towers $–$$$$ 720 S. Michigan Ave. (p 138)

Best B o u t i q u e H o t e l ★★★ Hotel Burnham $$$ 1 W. Washington St. (p 139)

Best R o c k ‘ n ’ R o l l H o t e l ★ Hard Rock Hotel $$$ 230 N. Michigan Ave. (p 138)

Best H o t e l fo r M u s i c Fa n s ★★ Hotel Sax $$–$$$ 333 N. Dearborn St. (p 139)

Best S p a ★★★ The Peninsula Chicago $$$$ 108 E. Superior St. (p 140)

Best N e i g h b o r h o o d H o t e l ★ Ambassador East $$$ 1301 N. State Pkwy. (p 136)

Best H i d d e n G e m ★★ The Belden–Stratford Apartments $$$ 2300 N. Lincoln Park West (p 136)

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H o t e l s A to Z ★ A m b a s s a d o r Ea s t GOLD COAST Opened in a leafy residential neighborhood in 1926, this historic hotel welcomed many a celebrity in its heyday (the celebs have moved on, but the elegance remains). The tidy guest rooms feature custom furnishings and marble bathrooms. 1301 N. State Pkwy. y 888/506-3471 or 312/787-7200. www.theambassadoreasthotel.com. 285 units. Doubles $160–$200. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Clark/Division. Map p 133. ★★ T h e B e l d e n – S t ra t fo r d A p a r t m e n t s LINCOLN PARK This North Side hotel is one of Chicago’s best-kept secrets and has a wonderful neighborhood atmosphere. It’s set in a gracious apartment building that offers 25 large hotel rooms (ask for one with a view of Lincoln Park). 2300 N. Lincoln Park West (just north of Fullerton Ave.). y 800/800-6261 or 773/281-2900. www.beldenstratford. com. 25 units. Doubles $209–$299. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Bus: 151 to Fullerton. Map p 135.

= B e s t We s t e r n H aw t h o r n e Te r ra c e LAKEVIEW

★

A fantastic bargain for families who The Belden–Stratford Apartments are one of the city’s best kept secrets.

The historic Ambassador East still sports a high glamour quotient.

don’t mind staying a bit north of the beaten track, this hotel offers lots of space and amenities at a great price. If you’re driving to Chicago, parking here is a bargain at $20 a day. 3434 N. Broadway. y 888/ 401-8781 or 773/244-3434. www. hawthorneterrace.com. 59 units. $149–229 double and suites w/breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Belmont. Map p 135. ★★★ C h i c a g o H i l t o n S u i t e s MAGNIFICENT MILE A step above Chicago’s other all-suite hotels in the elegance department. Rooms are warm and inviting. The glassenclosed pool deck on the 30th floor is a great place to watch the fireworks at Navy Pier. 198 E. Delaware Place (at Mies van der Rohe St.). y 800/222-TREE or 312/ 664-1100. www.hilton.com. 345 units. Doubles $109–$309. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/ State. Map p 133. ★★★ C h i c a g o M a r r i o t t D ow n t ow n MAGNIFICENT MILE You’ll feel at home in the comfortable and large guest rooms, but this hotel’s

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C i t y S u i t e s H o t e l LINCOLN PARK This affordable Art Deco hotel offers homey suites with sleeper sofas in the living area and lots of amenities. The drawback: Rooms can be fairly noisy, as some face busy Belmont Avenue, and some face the El tracks. 933 W. Belmont Ave. (at Sheffield Ave.). y 800/248-9108 or 773/4043400. www.cityinns.com. 45 units. Doubles $149–$249 w/breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Belmont. Map p 135. ★★ C o u r t ya r d M a g n i f i c e n t M i l e D ow n t ow n C h i c a g o MAGNIFICENT MILE This hotel occupies a prime downtown location and caters primarily to business travelers, though its clean and comfy rooms work just as well for families. Amenities include a lovely swimming pool (much better than most) and a fitness room featuring great

views of the city. 165 E. Ontario St. (just east of Michigan Ave.). y 312/ 573-0800. www.courtyardchicago. com. 306 units. Doubles $249. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Grand/ State. Map p 133. ★★ T h e D ra ke H o t e l MAGNIFICENT MILE This quietly elegant grande dame (the landmark opened in 1920) still features gracious style and boundless charm. Rooms offer high ceilings, polished woodwork, and marble bathrooms. Don’t miss out on afternoon tea in the Palm Court during your stay; it’s slightly pricey at $29 per person, but worth it. 140 E. Walton Place (at Michigan Ave.). y 800/55-DRAKE or 312/7872200. www.thedrakehotel.com. 537 units. Doubles $199–$425. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/ State. Map p 133. ★★ E m b a s s y S u i t e s C h i c a g o La ke s h o re STREETERVILLE Conveniently located between Navy Pier and Michigan Avenue, this all-suite hotel is popular with families and features spacious units with wellequipped kitchenettes. 511 N. Columbus Dr. y 312/836-5900. www.embassysuites.com. 455 units. Doubles $199–$299 w/breakfast and happy hour. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Grand/State. Map p 134.

A Vista Suite at The Drake Hotel, one of the city’s most elegant hotels.

H o t e l s A to Z

location in the heart of the Magnificent Mile is its biggest asset. Fitness enthusiasts will appreciate the above-average health club facilities, which even include a basketball court on the deck of the ninth floor, where the indoor pool is also located. 540 N. Michigan Ave. (at Grand Ave.). y 312/836-0100. www. marriott.com. 1,192 units. Doubles $220. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Grand/State. Map p 133.

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138 ★★★ Fa i r m o n t H o t e l RIVER EAST A few blocks north of the Loop, this chic luxury hotel is popular with politicos and the business set. The exceptionally large guest rooms feature dressing rooms; walk-in closets; and marble bathrooms with huge tubs, separate showers, and TVs. 200 N. Columbus Dr. (at Lake St.). y 800/526-2008 or 312/565-8000. www.fairmont.com. 692 units. Doubles $129–$389. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Brown, Orange, or Green line to Randolph. Map p 134. ★★★ Fo u r S e a s o n s H o t e l MAGNIFICENT MILE Consistently ranked among the best hotels in the world, the Four Seasons offers luxe decor and stellar service. The spacious guest rooms are packed with extras (L’Occitane toiletries, for one), and the windows actually open to let in fresh air. 120 E. Delaware Place (at Michigan Ave.). y 800/332-3442 or 312/280-8800. www.fourseasons. com. 343 units. Doubles $495–$695. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 133. ★ Hard Rock Hotel Chicago THE LOOP This hip hotel occupies The Four Seasons Hotel, one of the finest in the world, towers above the city.

The lobby of the chic and luxurious Fairmont Hotel.

a rehabbed historic skyscraper, the 40-story Carbide and Carbon Building, though the rooms are fashionably modern. As expected, the theme here is music: Pop tunes echo through the lobby, TV monitors show videos, and glass cases display pop-star memorabilia. 230 N. Michigan Ave. (at Lake St.). y 866/ 966-5166 or 312/345-1000. www. hardrockhotelchicago.com. 387 units. Doubles $169–$349. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red or Blue line to Lake. Map p 134.

=

★ H i l t o n C h i c a g o SOUTH LOOP Sprawling over several blocks, this virtual city features wellappointed rooms (many with two bathrooms) and a great location. Public areas abound with shops, bars, restaurants, and artwork. 720 S. Michigan Ave. (at Balbo Dr.). y 800-HILTONS or 312/922-4400. www.hilton.com. 1,554 units. Doubles $129–$399. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Harrison/State. Map p 134.

H i l t o n G a r d e n I n n RIVER NORTH This bland business hotel also pleases families because of its ample rooms; the great vistas from its toplevel floors; and an enviable location near the ESPN Zone, Oysy sushi bar, and the Nordstrom mall. 10 E. Grand Ave. (at State St.). y 800/HILTONS or

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312/595-0000. 348 units. Doubles $189–$329. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to State/Grand. Map p 134.

H o m ew o o d S u i t e s RIVER NORTH An excellent choice for families, this simple-yet-comfy hotel offers onebedroom suites, each with a full kitchen. 40 E. Grand Ave. (at Wabash St.). y 800/CALL-HOME or 312/6442222. www.homewoodsuiteschicago. com. 233 units. Doubles $109–$449 w/breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to State/Grand. Map p 134. ★ H o t e l A l l e g ro THE LOOP Adjoining the historic Palace Theatre, this colorful boutique hotel appeals to the young and hip. It’s warmly (if boldly) decorated, features a fun vibe, and offers great value. 171 W. Randolph St. (at LaSalle St.). y 312/ 236-0123. www.allegrochicago.com. 483 units. Doubles $169–$329. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: All lines to Washington. Map p 134. ★★★ H o t e l B u r n h a m THE LOOP One of the world’s first skyscrapers, D. H. Burnham’s Reliance Building (p 10, 5) is now home to this stylish boutique hotel, Chicago’s most distinctive and a must for architecture buffs. You’ll marvel at The Crowne Plaza Chicago/The Silversmith offers some of the most distinctive accommodations in Chicago. See p 141.

The stylish Hotel Burnham is a must for architecture buffs.

the huge guest-room windows that stretch from floor to ceiling. Ask for a high, corner room overlooking Macy’s. 1 W. Washington St. (at State St.). y 866/690-1986 or 312/ 782-1111. www.burnhamhotel.com. 122 units. Doubles $299. AE, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Washington/ State. Map p 134. ★★ H o t e l S a x C h i c a g o RIVER NORTH Located in the entertainment-packed Marina Towers complex, this bohemian boutique hotel is a remodel of the former House of Blues Hotel. A constant stream of performers from the House of Blues club next door ensures that this hotel is for those who want an experience as much as a place to lay their heads. 333 N. Dearborn St. y 877/569-3742 or 312/245-0333. www.hotelsax chicago.com. 353 units. Doubles $269–$449. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Grand/State. Map p 134.

= H ya t t R e g e n c y C h i c a g o RIVER EAST This sprawling and busy convention hotel (Hyatt’s flagship in the U.S.) is as impersonal as Union Station, but the modern rooms feature all the amenities you’d expect of this high-end chain. It’s surprisingly good for families— with all the hustle and bustle, kids

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blend right in. 151 E. Wacker Dr. y 312/565-1234. www.hyatt.com. 2,019 units. Doubles $180–$330. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to State/Lake. Map p 134. ★ InterContinental Chicago MAGNIFICENT MILE A sentimental favorite of locals, this hotel is both eccentric (its decor spans numerous architectural styles ranging from medieval English to Mesopotamian) and comfortable. The south tower’s Roman-style pool—the best in the city—was originally part of the 1929built Medinah Athletic Club. 505 N. Michigan Ave. (at Grand Ave.). y 800/ 327-0200 or 312/944-4100. http:// chicago.intercontinental.com. 790 units. Doubles $239–$350. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Grand/State. Map p 133. ★★ T h e J a m e s H o t e l RIVER NORTH One of the city’s newer hotels, The James blurs the line between upscale luxury and stylish boutique. Proximity to Michigan Avenue shopping, River North nightlife, and the Loop theater district make this sleek, modern hotel a great choice for grown-up travelers in search of a modern hotel experience. 55 E. Ontario St. (at Rush St.). y 877/526-3755 or 312/337-1000. www.jameshotels.com. 297 units. The luxurious pool at The Peninsula Chicago offers exceptional views of the city.

A double room at the Hilton Chicago.

Doubles $189–$529. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to State/Grand. Map p 133.

M i l l e n n i u m K n i c ke r b o c ke r H o t e l MAGNIFICENT MILE Built in 1927, this historic hotel exudes vintage charm. Today, it offers sprucedup rooms, good value, and a superb location. 163 E. Walton St. (just east of Michigan Ave.). y 800/621-8140 or 312/751-8100. www.millennium hotels.com. 305 units. Doubles $169– $299. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 133. ★★★ Pa r k H ya t t C h i c a g o MAGNIFICENT MILE Part hotel, part condominium building, this sleek, contemporary property is the coolest in town. Luxurious but unstuffy, the guest rooms feature plush furnishings and artwork; the full windows in the bathrooms take best advantage of the marvelous views. 800 N. Michigan Ave. (at Chicago Ave.). y 800/2331234 or 312/335-1234. 198 units. Doubles $385–$525. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 133. ★★★ T h e Pe n i n s u l a C h i c a g o MAGNIFICENT MILE Service at this Art Deco bastion of luxury is practically a religion. The in-room technology—a small silver “command station” allows guests to control the lights, curtains, and room temperature—is also worthy of worship.

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★ R e d R o o f I n n MAGNIFICENT MILE This is your best bet for lowpriced lodgings near pricey Michigan Avenue. The rooms and amenities match the budget prices, but who cares when you’re spending most of your time out on the town? 162 E. Ontario St. (at St. Clair). y 800/7337663 or 312/787-3580. 195 units. Doubles $96–$159. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Grand/State. Map p 133.

Renaissance Chicago Hotel THE LOOP This upscale business hotel features bay windows that offer priceless views of the river and city. Comfortable guest rooms are decorated in dark woods, with plush carpeting and rich draperies and fabrics. 1 W. Wacker Dr. (at State St.). y 800/ HOTELS-1 or 312/372-7200. www. marriott.com. 553 units. Doubles $199–$399. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Brown Line to State/Lake or Red Line to Washington/State. Map p 134. ★★★ R i t z - C a r l t o n C h i c a g o MAGNIFICENT MILE Set above the

Water Tower Place mall (p 83), this superluxurious celebrity magnet is known for its tiptop service and open and airy setting. The hotel’s atrium is the perfect spot for afternoon tea or an evening aperitif. 160 E. Pearson St. (just east of N. Michigan Ave.). y 800/621-6906 or 312/ 266-1000. www.fourseasons.com/ chicagorc. 435 units. Doubles $495– $635. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 133. ★★ T h e S i l ve rs m i t h H o t e l & S u i t e s THE LOOP This distinctive landmark building was built in 1897 to house silversmiths and jewelers, and has plenty of personality. Rooms, exquisitely decorated in the Arts and Crafts style, offer oversize bathrooms and fabulous views. 10 S. Wabash Ave. (at Madison St.). y 800/2 CROWNE or 312/372-7696. www. silversmithchicagohotel.com. 143 units. Doubles $179–$359. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Orange, Brown, or Green line to Madison/Wabash, or Red Line to Washington/State. Map p 134. ★★ S o f i t e l C h i c a g o Wa t e r To w e r MAGNIFICENT MILE Sofitel, drawing on the city’s tradition of great architecture, built this soaring, triangular tower with a glass-andaluminum facade that sparkles in

The Trump Hotel offers fantastic views of the city.

H o t e l s A to Z

108 E. Superior St. (at Michigan Ave.). y 866/288-8889 or 312/337-2888. http://chicago.peninsula.com. 339 units. Doubles $525–$650. AE, DC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 133.

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true birds eye-view of the city. 323 E. Wacker Dr. y 888/737-9477 or 312/ 565-0565. www.swissotelchicago. com. 632 units. Doubles $159–$409. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red, Brown, Orange, or Green line to Randolph. Map p 134.

One of the charming Talbott Hotel’s firstrate bathrooms.

the sun. The interior has a European, modern feel. The fairly compact guest rooms feature contemporary decor, sleek bathrooms, and good views of the city. 20 E. Chestnut St. (at Wabash St.). y 800/SOFITEL or 312/324-4000. www.sofitel.com. 415 units. Doubles $249–$555. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/ State. Map p 133. ★★★ S w i s s o t e l C h i c a g o THE LOOP This sleek, modern hotel is all business and may therefore feel a bit icy to some. Still, its ingenious triangular design gives every room a panoramic vista of Lake Michigan, Grant Park, and/or the Chicago River, and exercising in the Penthouse Health Club and Spa, perched on the 42nd floor, will give you a

★★★ Ta l b o t t H o t e l MAGNIFICENT MILE This hidden gem combines the charm of an English inn with a location that’s hard to beat, just west of the Magnificent Mile. Many of the exceptionally large rooms have kitchens and sitting rooms. The cozy bar and restaurant offer first-rate people-watching opportunities. 20 E. Delaware Place (between Rush and State sts.). y 800-TALBOTT or 312/ 944-4970. www.talbotthotel.com. 149 units. Doubles $169–$449. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/ State. Map p 133. ★★ T h e Tre m o n t MAGNIFICENT MILE A small, European-style hotel with great appeal and good amenities, but be ready for small (though tastefully furnished) rooms. 100 E. Chestnut St. (just west of Michigan Ave.). y 800/621-8133 or 312/7511900. www.tremontchicago.com. 130 units. Doubles $149–$329. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 133.

W h e n I s t h e O ff Season? Chicago is becoming a year-round, 7-days-a-week destination. That said, you can usually find a few good buys from January through March—unless a mega-convention is swallowing up huge numbers of hotel rooms. In the winter months, the C h i c a g o O f f i c e o f To u r i s m website (www.877chicago.com) advertises hotel specials, some as low as $69 per night (though these rates often come with blackout dates and minimum-stay requirements). Most of the more centrally located hotels are priced from $99 to $139 per night before taxes. Late fall, when the weather is often mild and pleasant, is also a time to snare lower room rates, particularly on weekends when all the business travelers have left town.

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★★★ Tr u m p I n t e r n a t i o n a l

H o t e l a n d To w e r C h i c a g o RIVER NORTH Chicago’s newest entry onto the hotel scene, this Trump hotel perches on the river and offers fantastic city views (book a suite ending in “00” for an eastfacing room, the best view). Creams and grays make this place more subtle than gilded, and don’t miss dinner at the 16th-floor restaurant, Sixteen. 401 N. Wabash Ave. (at the river). y 877/458-7867 or 312/5888000. www.trumpchicago.com. 339 units. Doubles $329–$529. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to State/ Harrison. Map p 134. ★★ W C h i c a g o La ke s h o re STREETERVILLE The only hotel situated on the lakefront, this swanky boutique property tries hard to achieve hipness and caters to singles and couples. The trendy guest rooms are a bit gloomy, but if you need a pick-me-up you can relax in the hotel’s branch of New York’s famed Bliss Spa. 644 N. Lake Shore Dr. (at Ontario St.). y 877/W-HOTELS or 312/943-9200. www.whotels.com. 520 units. Doubles $219–$429. AE, Shoppers especially appreciate the Westin Michigan Avenue Hotel’s super location.

European in style, The Tremont is a great spot for a weekend getaway.

DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Grand/State. Map p 134.

★★★ W e s t i n C h i c a g o R i ve r N o r t h RIVER NORTH Though this handsome hotel caters mostly to the business set, its furniture and artwork give it a residential feel. Request a room facing south for a fantastic view overlooking the Chicago River. 320 N. Dearborn St. y 800/WESTIN1 or 312/744-1900. www.westinchicago.com. 424 units. Doubles $199–$350. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Brown, Orange, or Green line to State/Lake. Map p 134. ★ W e s t i n M i c h i g a n Av e n u e H o t e l MAGNIFICENT MILE An ideal location (especially for shoppers—Bloomingdale’s and the John Hancock Center are right across the street) makes this hotel a winner. Ask for a tower lake-view room, which is larger than a standard and features an upgraded bathroom and turndown service. 909 N. Michigan Ave. (at Delaware Place). y 800/ WESTIN-1 or 312/943-7200. www. westin.com. 743 units. Doubles $189–$389. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 133.

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Chippendale desks, and high-end toiletries. Expect narrow hallways and small bathrooms. 105 E. Delaware Place (just west of Michigan Ave.). y 800/948-4255 or 312/ 944-6300. www.thewhitehallhotel. com. 222 units. Doubles $199–$379. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Chicago/State. Map p 133.

The comfy Windy City Urban Inn offers charming rooms in quiet surroundings.

★★ W h i t e h a l l H o t e l MAGNIFICENT MILE European style and ambience abound at this landmark hideaway. The classically stylish and comfortable accommodations include mahogany furnishings,

★ W i n d y C i t y U r b a n I n n LINCOLN PARK This grand 1886 B&B, located on a tranquil side street, offers charming rooms and apartments (the best bet for families). The owners—a well-known political reporter and his wife—are excellent resources for visitors who want to get beyond the usual tourist sights. Blues and jazz play during the excellent buffet breakfast, which features many local food favorites. 607 W. Deming Place. y 877/897-7091 or 773/248-7091. www.windycityinn. com. 8 units. Doubles $125–$255 w/breakfast. Kids over age 10 welcome. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. El: Red Line to Fullerton. Map p 135.

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F i n d i n g Yo u r Way t o a B & B One of the best ways to locate a bed-and-breakfast in Chicago is through a reservation service. I recommend A t H o m e I n n C h i c a g o , I n c . (y 800/375-7084 or 312/640-1050; www.athomeinn chicago.com). This service represents about 50 establishments, all located within the city, in areas ranging from the South Loop to the Lakeview neighborhood (with a few farther north). Offerings include a mix of hosted guest rooms in houses and apartments, and unhosted accommodations in self-contained apartments. Prices vary according to the type of accommodations you select and the location of the property. For example, $250 a night will get you a two-bedroom, two-bath condo in a Gold Coast high-rise. For about $225 a night, you can unpack in a studio apartment in the Printers Row neighborhood of the South Loop.

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Previous page: The Grosse Pointe Lighthouse and Maritime Museum.

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h i s h i s t o r i c a n d s c e n i c s u b u r b o n t h e we s t e r n f r i n g e o f C h i c a g o was Ernest Hemingway’s birthplace and boyhood home, as well as the location of Frank Lloyd Wright’s first home and studio. It’s home to the country’s largest concentration of houses and buildings designed and built by Wright, and features architecture that’s functional, appropriate to its natural setting, and stimulating to the imagination. STA RT: Ta ke t h e E l ( G re e n L i n e ) t o H a r l e m

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llular Field

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A v e n u e , a b o u t a 2 5 - m i n u t e r i d e f ro m d o w n t ow n . G e t o f f t h e t ra i n a t H a r l e m a n d wa l k 2 b l o c k s n o r t h t o t h e O a k Pa r k V i s i t o r C e n t e r a t La ke S t re e t .

1 O a k Pa r k V i s i t o r C e n t e r. Pick up useful maps of the area before tackling the historic district, located just a few blocks away. You can also purchase special event tickets, souvenirs, and themed audio tours. 158 N. Forest Ave. y 888/OAK-PARK or 708/524-7800. www.visitoakpark. com. Apr–Oct daily 10am–5pm; Nov–Mar daily 10am–4pm.

2 ★★★ F ra n k L l oy d Wr i g h t H o m e & S t u d i o . For the first 20 years of Wright’s career, this remarkable complex served first and foremost as the sanctuary from which

Oak Park Ave.

The studio from which Frank Lloyd Wright executed more than 130 of his 430 completed buildings.

Nathan Moore House, one of several homes designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in Oak Park’s historic district.

the famous architect designed and executed more than 130 of his 430 completed buildings. The home began life as a simple shingled cottage that Wright (1867–1959) built for his bride in 1889 at the age of 22, but it became a work in progress, as Wright remodeled it constantly until 1911 (though he left the house in 1909 after separating from his wife). The home was Wright’s showcase and laboratory for his famous Prairie style, but it also embraces many idiosyncratic features, including a barrel-vaulted children’s playroom and a studio with an octagonal balcony suspended by chains. It has been restored to its 1909 appearance. @ 1–2 hr. 951 Chicago Ave. y 708/848-1976. www.wrightplus. org. Admission $12 adults, $10 seniors and kids 7–18, free for kids under 7. Combined admission for Home & Studio tour and guided or self-guided historic district tour (see

O a k Pa r k

T

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148 below) $20 adults, $16 seniors and kids 7–18. Admission to Home & Studio is by guided tour only; tours depart from the Ginkgo Tree Bookshop Mon–Fri 11am, 1pm, and 3pm; Sat–Sun every 20 min. 11am–3:30pm. Facilities for people with disabilities are limited; call in advance.

3 ★★★ G u i d e d N e i g h b o rh o o d Wa l k i n g To u rs . On these weekend-only detailed tours, you can check out the exteriors of the houses designed by Wright, as well as the charming Victorian homes that he hated so intensely. If you prefer to tour on your own (or you come during the week), you can rent an audiocassette for a selfguided tour of the district, available at the Gingko Tree Bookshop daily from 10am to 3:30pm ($12 adults; $10 seniors and kids). @ 1 hr. Tours depart from the Ginkgo Tree Bookshop in the Frank Lloyd Wright Home & Studio, 951 Chicago Ave. y 708/ 848-1976. www.wrightplus.org. Guided tours $12 adults, $10 seniors and children 7–18, free for children under 7. Sat–Sun 10:30am–4pm (tour times more limited Nov–Feb).

4 ★★ U n i t y Te m p l e . This National Historic Landmark’s reinforced concrete exterior is as forbidding as a mausoleum. Built between 1905 and 1908 for the Unitarian Universalist Congregation, the cubiststyle church is one of Wright’s greatest masterpieces and the only public building from his “Golden” period that still stands. The detailing Unity Temple, one of Frank Lloyd Wright’s greatest architectural achievements.

The Arthur B. Heurtly House, one of several Wright homes visitors will see on tours of the historic district.

in the considerably cheerier interior contains the entire architectural alphabet of the Prairie School of architectural design, from the skylight to the prominent use of wood trim. @ 45 min. for a guided tour. 875 Lake St. y 708/383-8873. www.unitytemple-utrf.org. Admission $8 adults, $6 seniors, students, and kids. Sat–Sun on the hour, 1–4pm.

5 ★★★ Petersen’s Ice Cre a m Pa r l o u r & S we e t S h o p p e has been serving up classic American favorites since 1919. There’s wonderfully rich ice cream (the specialty is the Merry-Go-Round, a chocolate sundae topped with animal cookies and a parasol), soup and sandwiches, and kiddie treats such as dinosaurshaped chicken nuggets. 1100 W. Chicago Ave. y 708/386-6131. $.

6 ★ Historic Pleasant Home. Named for its location at Pleasant and Home streets, this opulent, 30room mansion is a must-see for fans of architecture and historic homes. It was built in 1897 by prominent Prairie School architect George W. Maher (1864–1926) for investment banker and philanthropist John W. Farson. Of some 300 structures that Maher designed, it’s the only one open to the public and was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1996. You’ll see colorful art glass,

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7 E r n e s t H e m i n g w ay M u s e u m . Frank Lloyd Wright may be Oak Park’s favorite son, but the town’s most famous native son is Ernest Hemingway (1899–1961), who resided here for the first 18 years of his life. Operated by the Ernest Hemingway Foundation, this museum, a former church, traces the author’s life from his first job out of high school as a young reporter with the Kansas City Star to his work as a war correspondent in Europe during World War II. Videos of 15 films made from his works, from A Farewell to Arms (1921) to Islands in the Stream (1977), are shown. @ 1–2 hr. 200 N. Oak Park Ave. y 708/524-5383. www.ehfop.org. Admission $8 adults, $6 seniors and students, free for kids under 5. Admission covers both the museum and the Hemingway Birthplace (see below). Sun–Fri 1–5pm; Sat 10am–5pm.

8 H e m i n g w ay B i r t h p l a c e . Also operated by the Ernest Hemingway Foundation, this lovely Queen Anne home, with a wraparound porch and turrets, has been The Hemingway Birthplace, where Papa was born in 1899, is worth visiting even if you’re not a fan of the novelist.

O a k Pa r k

custom furniture and light fixtures, and Maher’s unique use of his “motif-rhythm” theory, where repeated decorative motifs are incorporated into every facet of the home. @ 1 hr. for a guided tour. 217 Home St. y 708/383-2654. www. pleasanthome.org. Admission $5 adults, $3 seniors, students, and kids; free Thurs. Tours Thurs–Sat 12:30, 1:30, and 2:30pm.

The Ernest B. Hemingway Museum examines the life of Oak Park’s most famous native son.

restored to replicate its appearance at the end of the 19th century. The home was built in 1890 for Hemingway’s grandfather, Ernest Hall. Hemingway was born here on July 21, 1899, though the author actually spent most of his youth at 600 N. Kenilworth Ave., a few blocks away (that house is privately owned). This is an appealing stop for fans of historic houses, whether you’re a Hemingway fan or not. 339 N. Oak Park Ave. y 708/524-5383. www. ehfop.org. Admission $8 adults, $6 seniors and students, free for kids under 5. Admission covers both the Birthplace and the Hemingway Museum (see above). Sun–Fri 1–5pm; Sat 10am–5pm.

9

Av e n u e Near Unity Temple, A l e H o u s e is a local sports bar that specializes in generous steaks, chops, hearty sandwiches, homemade French onion soup, and giant salads. Don’t miss the juicy Vidalia Burger, topped with Swiss cheese and caramelized onions. Eight beers are on tap, and 50 more are available in the bottle. When the weather’s good, opt for the outdoor dining area on the rooftop. 825 S. Oak Park Ave. y 708/848-2801. $$.

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h e o l d e s t s u b u r b o f C h i c a g o , Ev a n s t o n i s h o m e t o a bustling downtown, grand old homes, and the Northwestern University campus. It combines the peaceful feeling and green space of suburban life with the culture and lively atmosphere that you’d expect of an urban center, including sophisticated dining and boutique shopping. STA RT: C a t c h t h e M e t ra N o r t h t ra i n l i n e f ro m N o r t h we s t e r n S t at i o n i n t h e L o o p f o r t h e 2 0 - m i n u t e r i d e t o t h e D av i s S t r e e t s t a t i o n . W a l k e a s t o n D av i s S t re e t i n t o t h e h e a r t o f d ow n t ow n Ev a n s t o n .

1 G ro s s e Po i n t L i g h t h o u s e a n d M a r i t i m e M u s e u m . This

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lighthouse, a National Historic Landmark built by the U.S. government in 1873, served as a beacon when Lake Michigan still teemed with cargo-laden ships and shipwrecks were a very real threat. Be sure to stroll the scenic grounds. If you’re here during the summer, it’s worth taking a tour of the lighthouse’s interior—you get to climb the 141 steps to the top of the tower and are rewarded with a wonderful view. @ 45 min. 2601 Sheridan Rd. y 847/ 328-6961. www.grossepointelighthouse.net. Admission $5 adults, $3 children 8–12, children under 8 not admitted for safety reasons. Tours of the interior conducted at 2, 3, and 4pm weekends June–Sept only; grounds open year-round daily.

3 S h a ke s p e a re G a r d e n . In 1915, the Drama League of America asked its members to come up with ways to commemorate the 300th anniversary of Shakespeare’s death. Noted Chicago landscape architect Jens J. Jensen responded with this gem: A National Historic Landmark that features several memorials to the Bard and more than 50 plants that were either mentioned in Shakespeare’s plays or common in Tudor England. Boxed in by hawthorn trees and perfectly manicured hedgerows, the garden’s a lovely spot for strolling. @ 10 min. At Northwestern University, east of Sheridan Rd., entrance off Garrett Place. y 847/491-3741. www.north western.edu. Free admission. 4 T h e M a r y a n d Le i g h B l o c k M u s e u m o f A r t . This fine-arts

2 N o r t h we s t e r n U n i ve rs i t y. This world-class university makes its home on a beautiful lakefront campus, and many of its architecturally significant buildings make the campus worthy of several hours of exploration. Don’t miss the sublime stained-glass facade of the A l i c e M i l l a r C h a p e l . Other standouts include the Norman Gothic D e e r i n g L i b ra r y, patterned after Cambridge University’s King’s College Chapel; and the Romanesque R ev i va l F i s k H a l l , designed by Daniel Burnham and home to the university’s prestigious Medill School of Journalism. @ 1–2 hr. Sheridan Rd. (at Chicago Ave.). y 847/491-3741. www.north western.edu. Free admission.

Northwestern University is renowned for both its academics and architecture.

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6 Willard House.

haven offers a topnotch collection of prints, photographs, and drawings, as well as always-intriguing temporary exhibitions. Don’t miss the outdoor sculpture garden. @ 30 min. At

Frances Willard (1839–98), social reformer and founder of the Women’s Christian Temperance Union (WCTU), spent most of her adult life in Northwestern UniverEvanston. Nine of sity, 40 Arts Circle Dr. the 17 rooms in this y 847/491-4000. old Victorian “Rest www.blockmuseum. Cottage” (as Willard Dürer Print from the Mary and northwestern.edu. called it) have been Leigh Block Museum of Art. Free admission. Tues converted into a 10am–5pm; Wed–Fri museum of period 10am–8pm; Sat–Sun noon–5pm. furnishings and temperance memorabilia. Among the personal effects The Charles Gates Dawes Mansion, home on display is the bicycle Willard of the Evanston Historical Society. affectionately called “Gladys” and learned to ride late in life—spurring women across the country to do the same. The headquarters of the WCTU is still located on-site. @ 1 hr. 1730 Chicago Ave. y 847/328-7500. www.franceswillardhouse.org. Admission $5 adults, $3 kids 12 and under. Open 1st and 3rd Sun of every month from 1–4pm.

5 Charles Gates Dawes Mansion. Dawes was a wealthy financier who served as vice president under Calvin Coolidge and won the 1925 Nobel Peace Prize for his smooth handling of German reparations after World War I on behalf of the League of Nations. Dawes’s former home—completed in 1896— now houses the Evanston History Center, which offers tours of this restored landmark. The 25-room home was designed in the manner of a French château and features a collection of historic costumes, decorative arts, and antiques. @ 1 hr. 225 Greenwood St. y 847/4753410. www.evanstonhistorical.org. Admission $5 adults, $3 seniors and kids 18 and under. Thurs–Sun 1–5pm.

Experience Evanston’s bohemian side with a cup of coffee or light snack at the Blind Faith Café, where the organic and vegetarian specialties include scrambled tofu, huevos rancheros, granola, tempting baked goods, and whole-grain pancakes. 525 Dempster St. y 847/

7

328-6875. $$.

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Historic Willard House is the headquarters of the Women’s Christian Temperance Union.

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B e fo re You Go G ov e r n m e n t To u r i s t O f f i c e s The C h i c a g o O f f i c e o f To u r i s m , Chicago Cultural Center, 78 E. Washington St., Chicago, IL 60602 (y 8 7 7 / C H I C AG O or TTY 866/ 710-0294; www.choosechicago.com), dispenses information to both domestic and international visitors. You can also contact the I l l i n o i s B u re a u o f To u r i s m (y 8 0 0 / 2 C O N N E CT or TTY 800/406-6418; www. enjoyillinois.com).

The Best Times to Go The ideal time to visit Chicago is in summer or fall. Summer offers a nonstop selection of special events and outdoor activities, though you will face crowds and the occasional period of hot, muggy weather. In autumn, days are generally sunny and crowds at major tourist attractions grow thinner. Snow generally doesn’t start falling until November. Spring is extremely unpredictable, with dramatic fluctuations between cold and warm weather, and usually lots of rain. Winter, though not any worse than in many other northern cities, is generally cold and snowy. That said, museumlovers and those on a tight budget might find winter a good time to visit: You’ll find no lines at museums, lots of sales in the stores, and the cheapest rates at hotels.

F e s t i va l s & S p e c i a l Ev e n t s Ask the C h i c a g o O f f i c e o f To u r i s m (y 8 7 7 / C H I C AG O ; www.choose chicago.com) to mail you a copy of the Chicago Visitor’s Guide. Also ask for the latest materials produced by the M ay o r ’s O f f i c e o f S p e c i a l Ev e n t s (y 312/744-3315; www. cityofchicago.org/specialevents), or call the S p e c i a l Ev e n t s H o t L i n e at y 312/744-3370 (TTY 312/744Previous page: Steps at an El station.

2964), which keeps current with citywide and neighborhood festivals. J A N . All the latest boats and recreational vehicles are put on display at the C h i c a g o B o a t , RV & O u t d o o r S h ow (y 312/946 -6200; www. chicagoboatshow.com), which also features trout fishing, a climbing wall, boating safety seminars, and big-time entertainment. The action takes place in mid-January. F E B . More than a million car buffs flock to the C h i c a g o A u t o S h ow (y 630/495 -2 2 8 2) in mid-February. More than a thousand cars and trucks, domestic and foreign, current and futuristic, are on display. Look for special weekend packages at area hotels that include show tickets. M A R . The Chicago River is dyed green for the S t . Pa t r i c k ’s D ay Pa ra d e , a Chicago tradition since the 1840s that’s held on the Saturday before March 17. The parade route is Columbus Drive from Balbo Drive to Monroe Street. Visit www. chiagostpatsparade.com for more information. A P R . Join the ever-hopeful fans of the Cubs (y 7 7 3 / 4 0 4 - C U B S or visit www.cubs.mlb.com) or the White Sox (y 312/674 -1 0 0 0 or visit www.whitesox.mlb.com) on O p e ni n g D ay. Be sure to get your tickets early for this eagerly awaited day, and go prepared with warm gear, because it’s usually freezing cold. Early April. M AY. On the third Saturday in May, you can take the annual W r i g h t P l u s To u r (y 708/848 -1976; www. wrightplus.org), a rare look at the interiors of 10 notable buildings in Oak Park. Tickets go on sale March 1 and can sell out within 6 weeks.

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book fairs in the country, P r i n t e rs R ow B o o k Fa i r (y 312/222-3986) features more than 150 booksellers displaying new, used, and antiquarian books for sale. It takes place the first weekend in June. Dozens of acts perform over the 4 days of the C h i c a g o B l u e s Fe s t i v a l (y 312/744 -3 3 1 5). Blues Fest is free and takes place the second weekend in June in Millennium Park. Highland Park’s R av i n i a Fe s t i va l (y 847/266 -5100; www.ravinia. com) is the open-air summer home of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra and many first-rate visiting orchestras, chamber ensembles, pop artists, dance companies, and so forth. It runs from June through September. T h e G ra n t Pa r k M u s i c Fe s t i va l (y 312/742 -7638; www.grantparkmusicfestival.com) at Pritzker Pavilion in Millennium Park offers free outdoor musical concerts from the last week in June through August. The city claims that Ta s t e o f C h i c a g o (y 312/744 -3 3 1 5) is the largest free outdoor food fest in the nation. The 3.5-million rib and pizza lovers who feed at this colossal alfresco trough say they’re right. The festival runs from late June through early July; admission is free, though you pay for the sampling. The floats and marching units at the G ay a n d Le s b i a n P r i d e Pa ra d e (y 773/348 -8 2 4 3 ; www. chicagopridecalendar.org) have to be seen to be believed. It’s held the last Sunday in June. I n d e p e n d e n c e D ay C e l e b ra t i o n (y 312/744 -3 3 1 5) takes places in Chicago on July 3. Concerts and fireworks are the highlights of the festivities in Grant Park. Expect huge crowds. The annual O l d S t . Pa t r i c k ’s W o r l d ’s La rg e s t B l o c k Pa r t y (y 312/648 -1021; www.oldstpats. org) is a hugely popular blowout J U LY. The

that’s hosted by the city’s oldest church in mid-July. Six bands—the party always lands some major acts—perform over 2 nights. A U G . The U.S. Air Force Thunderbirds and Navy Seals usually put in an appearance at the C h i c a g o A i r & Wa t e r S h ow (y 312/744 -3 3 1 5), which is held the third weekend in August. Admission is free to this hugely popular aquatic and aerial spectacular. The V i va ! C h i c a g o La t i n M u s i c F e s t i va l (y 312/744 -3 3 1 5), held on the last weekend in August, runs the gamut from salsa to mambo to the hottest Latin rock outfits. Admission is free. S E P T. Several national headliners are always on hand at the C h i c a g o J a z z F e s t i va l (y 312/744 -3 3 1 5). The free event takes place the first weekend in September. Held at various music venues around the city in late September, the W o r l d M u s i c Fe s t i va l C h i c a g o (y 312/742 -1938; www.cityof chicago.org/worldmusic) features top performers from around the globe, performing traditional, contemporary, and fusion music. Shows are a mix of free and ticketed ($10 or less) events. O CT. The oldest U.S. festival of its kind, the C h i c a g o I n t e r n a t i o n a l F i l m Fe s t i va l (y 312/683 -0121; www.chicagofilmfestival.org) screens films from around the world at various theaters over 2 weeks beginning the first Thursday in October. N OV. All the city’s best-known dance troupes (Hubbard Street, Joffrey Ballet, and so on) and many smaller companies participate in the monthlong D a n c e C h i c a g o festival (y 773/989 -0698; www.dance chicago.com). D E C . The esteemed Joffrey Ballet of Chicago performs its VictorianAmerican twist on T h e N u t c ra c ke r

B e fo re You Go

J U N E . One of the largest free outdoor

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from late Thanksgiving to midDecember. For tickets, call y 312/ 5 5 9 -1 2 1 2 (Ticketmaster), or contact the Joffrey office at y 312/739 0120; www.joffrey.com.

T h e We a t h e r Chicagoans like to joke that if you don’t like the weather, just wait an hour—it will change. The key is to be prepared for a wide range of weather with clothing that can take you from a sunny morning to a chilly, drizzly evening. The city has a reputation for being extremely cold in the winter, though it doesn’t really get much colder than any comparable northern city. (Though blustery winds do blow in from Lake Michigan, Chicago’s nickname, the Windy City, is due to the hot air generated by its politicos, not its weather.) Still, days of subzero temperatures, snowstorms, and freezing wind chills are not unheard of. If you arrive in winter, a hat and a good pair of boots are musts. Summer in Chicago can be tough to take as well: Temperatures can soar past 90°F (32°C) for several days at a stretch, and the humidity can rise to stifling proportions. That said, breezes coming off Lake Michigan usually help to cool things off. As close to your departure as possible, check the local weather forecast at the websites of the Chicago Tribune newspaper (www. chicagotribune.com) or The Weather Channel (www.weather.com).

U s e f u l We b s i t e s • w w w. e n j oy i l l i n o i s . c o m: If you plan to travel beyond city limits, this site, run by the Illinois Bureau of Tourism, can give you the scoop on the suburbs and beyond. • w w w. m e t ro m i x . c o m: Comprehensive entertainment and nightlife listings from the Chicago Tribune.

• w w w. c i t yo f c h i c a g o . o rg / e x p l o r i n g c h i c a g o: The official site of the Chicago Office of Tourism gives a good overview of what’s happening in town. • h t t p : / / c h i c a g o . c i t y s e a rc h . c o m : This local edition of the national Citysearch sites offers reviews of bars, restaurants, shows, and shops. • w w w. t i c ke t we b . o rg : Many of the city’s performing arts groups sell tickets online through this site. • w w w. h o t ro o m s . c o m: This excellent local service is the best site for hotel deals in Chicago. • w w w. c h i c a g o i s t . c o m: Want to see what issues have Chicagoans riled up? Check out this sounding board for local news.

Cellphones It’s a good bet that your cellphone will work in Chicago, but the U.S. has a very fragmented G S M ( G l o b a l S y s t e m f o r M o b i l e s ) w i re l e s s n e t w o r k , so take a look at your wireless company’s coverage map before heading out. (To see where GSM phones work in the U.S., check out w w w. t - m o b i l e . c o m / c ov e ra g e). You can always rent a phone from I n To u c h U S A (y 800/8727626; www.intouchglobal.com) or a rental-car location, but be aware that you’ll pay $1 a minute or more for airtime.

Car Rentals Unless you plan on taking a day trip to Indiana Dunes (p 86), I recommend that you don’t rent a car. And even if you do plan on leaving the city limits during your stay, rent a car only for the day you’ll need one. You’re far better off sticking to public transportation, taxis, and your own two feet. Parking in Chicago is scarce and expensive, and gasoline (petrol) isn’t cheap.

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High °F Low °F High °C Low °C Rainfall (in.) Rainfall (cm)

High °F Low °F High °C Low °C Rainfall (in.) Rainfall (cm)

JAN

FEB

MAR

APR

MAY

JUNE

20 14 –7 –10 1.60 4.06

34 18 1 –8 1.31 3.33

44 28 7 –2 2.59 6.58

59 39 15 4 3.66 9.30

70 48 21 9 3.15 8

79 58 26 14 4.08 10.36

JULY

AUG

SEPT

OCT

NOV

DEC

85 63 29 17 3.63 9.22

82 62 28 17 3.53 8.94

76 54 24 12 3.35 8.51

64 42 18 6 2.28 5.79

48 31 9 –1 2.06 5.23

35 20 2 –7 2.10 5.33

If you still want to rent a car, the best deals are usually found at rental-car company websites,

although all the major online travel agencies also offer rental-car reservations services.

Getting T h e re By Plane Chicago is served by two major airports. O ’ H a re I n t e r n a t i o n a l A i r p o r t (y 773/686 -2200; www.ohare.com) has long battled with Atlanta’s Hartsfield for the title of the world’s busiest airport. It’s located about 15 miles (24km) northwest of the Loop. Though taxis are plentiful (a cab ride into town averages $35), traffic can be horrendous (the ride can last an hour or more). If you arrive around rush hour and aren’t carting around lots of luggage, I highly recommend taking the El (see “Getting Around,” below) as it’s both cheaper and faster. The 45-minute trip on the El’s Blue Line from O’Hare to downtown costs $2. M i d wa y I n t e r n a t i o n a l A i r p o r t (y 773/838 -0600; www.flychicago. com; online airport code MDW) is located 10 miles (16km) southwest of downtown Chicago. Although

fewer airlines operate routes here, Midway is closer to the Loop and attracts more discount airlines, so you may be able to get a cheaper fare if you fly here. Taxis are available, and a cab ride (about $30) from Midway to the Loop usually takes about 20 minutes (though in bad traffic, the journey can take considerably longer). Again, I recommend taking public transportation. The 20- to 30-minute trip on the El’s Orange Line from Midway to the downtown area costs $2. N o t e : The train station at Midway is a significant walk from the terminal— without the benefit of O’Hare’s moving sidewalks—so be prepared if you’ve got heavy bags. Another transportation option at both airports is C o n t i n e n t a l A i rp o r t E x p re s s (y 888/2-T H E VA N ; www.airportexpress.com). This shuttle’s blue-and-white vans service most first-class hotels in Chicago;

Getting T h e re

C H I C AG O ’ S AV E R AG E T E M P E R AT U R E S & P R E C I P I TAT I O N

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ticket counters are located at both airports near the baggage claim. For transportation to the airport, reserve a spot at your hotel (check with the bell captain). The cost is $25 one-way ($45 round-trip) to or from O’Hare and $20 one-way ($36 round-trip) to or from Midway. Less expensive “group rates” are available for two or more people traveling together. The shuttles operate from 4am to 11:30pm.

By Car Interstate highways from all major points in the U.S. either run through or terminate in Chicago. I - 8 0 and I - 9 0 approach from the east, crossing the northern sector of Illinois, with I-90 splitting off and emptying into Chicago via the S k y way and the D a n R ya n E x p re s s way. From Chicago, I-90 runs through Wisconsin, following a northern route to Seattle. I - 5 5 snakes up the Mississippi Valley from the vicinity of New Orleans and enters Chicago from the west along t h e S t ev e n s o n E x p re s s way. In the opposite direction it provides an outlet to the southwest. I - 5 7 originates in southern Illinois and forms part of the interstate linkage to Florida and the South, connecting within Chicago on the west leg of the Dan Ryan. I- 9 4

links Detroit with Chicago, arriving in Chicago as the C a l u m e t E x p re s sw ay and leaving the city as the K e n n e d y E x p re s s way en route to the Northwest.

B y Tra i n A national rail hub, Chicago is served by a plethora of Amtrak trains. Contact A m t ra k (y 8 0 0 / U S A - R A I L ; www.amtrak.com) for tickets or to get the company’s useful travel planner, which includes information on train accommodations and package tours. Trains pull into U n i o n S t a t i o n , 210 S. Canal St. (between Adams and Jackson streets; y 312/655-2385). Bus nos. 1, 60, 125, 151, and 156 all stop at the station, which is just west across the river from the Loop. The nearest El stop is at Clinton Street and Congress Parkway (on the Blue Line), which is 3 blocks away.

By Bus G re y h o u n d (y 800/231 -2222; www.greyhound.com), the sole nationwide bus line, has a downtown Chicago terminal at 630 W. Harrison St. (y 312/408 -5 8 0 0). The location is not within walking distance of the major hotel zones, so you’ll need to take a cab or public transportation to get to your accommodations.

Getting A ro u n d B y P u b l i c Tra n s p o r t a t i o n The C h i c a g o Tra n s i t A u t h o r i t y (CTA; y 312/836 -7000; www. transitchicago.com) operates an extensive system of trains and buses throughout the city. Aside from walking, using public transportation is the quickest and most economical way to move about Chicago.

Subways and elevated trains (known as the El) are generally safe and reliable, although it’s advisable to avoid long rides through unfamiliar neighborhoods late at night. Most lines run 24 hours a day, though some do have limited hours, and some stations close down during the evening. The rush hour crush occurs roughly 6 to 9:30am and 3 to 7pm.

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hours of receipt. With a Chicago Card, kids under 7 ride free, and those between the ages of 7 and 11 pay 85¢ (15¢ for transfers). The CTA operates a useful information line that will help you find the bus or El train that will get you to your destination: y 8 3 6 -7 0 0 0 (from any area code in the city or suburbs) or TTY y 836-4949. The line is staffed from 5am to 1am. You can also check out the CTA’s website at www.transitchicago.com. Excellent CTA comprehensive maps, which include both El and bus routes, are usually available at subway or El stations, or by calling the CTA. Visitors may consider buying a V i s i t o r Pa s s , which works like a fare card and allows individual users unlimited rides on the El and CTA buses over a 24-hour period. The cards come in 1-, 2-, 3-, and 5-day varieties and cost $5 to $18. They’re sold at airports, hotels, museums, Hot Tix outlets, transportation hubs, and Chicago Office of Tourism visitor information centers (y 877/ C H I C AG O [244 -2246]). You can also buy them in advance online at www. transitchicago.com or by calling y 888/YO U R - CTA . Though the passes save you the trouble of feeding the fare machines yourself, they’re economical only if you plan to make at least three distinct trips at least 2 or more hours apart. If you plan to head to Evanston (p 150), you’ll need to take the Union Pacific line of the M e t ra commuter railroad (y 312/322 -6 7 7 7 or TTY y 312/322-6774, Mon–Fri 8am– 5pm; at other times, call the Transit Information Center at y 312/836 7 00 0 or TTY y 312/836-4949; www.metrarail.com), out of N o r t hW e s t e r n S t a t i o n at Madison and Canal streets (y 312/496 -4 7 7 7).

B y Ta x i Taxis are a convenient way to get around the Loop and to get to the

Getting A ro u n d

Other than on foot or bicycle, the best way to get around Chicago’s warren of neighborhoods—the best way to actually see what’s around you—is by riding a public bus, especially if you’re staying near the lakefront, where the trains don’t run. Virtually every place in the city is within close walking distance of a bus stop. Look for the blue-and-white signs to locate bus stops, which are spaced about 2 blocks apart. A few buses that are particularly handy for many visitors are the n o . 1 4 6 M a r i n e / M i c h i g a n , an express bus from Belmont Avenue on the North Side that cruises down North Lake Shore Drive (and through Lincoln Park during nonpeak times) to North Michigan Avenue, State Street, and the Grant Park museum campus; the n o . 1 5 1 S h e r i d a n , which passes through Lincoln Park en route to inner Lake Shore Drive and then travels along Michigan Avenue as far south as Adams Street, where it turns west into the Loop (and stops at Union Station); and the n o . 1 5 6 La S a l l e , which goes through Lincoln Park and then into the Loop’s financial district on LaSalle Street. Note that many bus routes shut down late at night (when you’re probably better off taking a cab anyway). Cash fares for the bus, subway, and El are $2 (kids 7–11 are $1, and under age 7 ride free), and they won’t sell you a transfer when you use cash. I recommend buying a C h i c a g o C a r d , which is a creditcard sized card that automatically deducts the exact fare each time you ride. Riders can obtain cards at vending machines located at all CTA train stations (but not on buses, so if you don’t have a card be sure you have exact change before boarding). You pay only $1.75 per ride with a card, and 25¢ for a transfer that allows CTA riders to make two transfers on the bus or El within 2

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dining, shopping, and entertainment options found beyond downtown. They are easy to hail in the Loop, on the Magnificent Mile and the Gold Coast, in River North, and in Lincoln Park, but if you go much beyond these key areas, you might need to call. Cab companies include F l a s h C a b (y 773/561 -1 4 4 4), Ye l l ow C a b (y 312/TA X I - C A B), and C h e c ke r C a b (y 3 1 2 / C H E C K E R). The meter in Chicago cabs currently starts at $2.25 for the first mile and costs 20¢ for each 1⁄9 of a mile; each 36 seconds of time

elapsed is 20¢ with a $1 surcharge for the first additional rider and 50¢ for each person after that.

By Car Try to avoid driving in Chicago if possible; it’s easier and cheaper to get around by hopping public transportation or a taxi. If you must drive, you’ll find that Chicago is laid out in a grid pattern so logical that it’s relatively easy to get around by car. For information on parking in the city, see “Parking,” below.

Fast Fa c t s D e W i tt P l a c e , 900 N. DeWitt Place (at Delaware Street; y 312/642 7 0 2 0), rents studios and one-bedroom condos on a daily or monthly basis, in a near-perfect location under the shadow of the John Hancock Center. For a complete listing of apartment rentals, contact the Chicago Convention and Tourism Bureau at y 8 7 7 - C H I C AG O . A PA RT M E N T R E N TA LS

A R E A C O D E S The 312 area code applies to the Loop and the neighborhoods closest to it, including River North, North Michigan Avenue, and the Gold Coast. The code for the rest of the city is 773. N o t e : You must dial “1” plus the area code for all telephone numbers, even if you are making a call within the same area code. AT M S & C A S H P O I N TS The C i r r u s (y 800/424 -7787; www.master card.com) and P LU S (y 800/843 7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you’re on, then call or check online for automated teller machine (ATM) locations in Chicago (they’re found all over the city, so you shouldn’t have trouble finding one).

Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave home, and be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different bank’s ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they’re rarely more than $1.50). N o t e : Some small establishments in Chicago won’t take credit cards, so it’s always wise to carry a small amount of cash on you. B A BYS I T T I N G Check first with the concierge or desk staff at your hotel; many hotels maintain lists of reliable sitters and babysitting services. Many top hotels work with A m e r i c a n C h i l d C a re S e r v i c e (y 312/ 6 4 4 -7 3 0 0 ; www.americanchildcare. com), a state-licensed and insured babysitting service that can match you with a sitter. All of its sitters are required to pass background checks, provide multiple child-care references, and are trained in infant and child CPR. It’s best to make a reservation 24 hours in advance; the office is open from 9am to 5pm. Rates are

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B&BS At Home Inn Chicago, P.O. Box 14088, Chicago, IL 60614 (y 800/375 -7 0 8 4 or 312/640-1050; www.athomeinnchicago.com), offers a centralized reservations service for more than 70 accommodations, from high-rise and loft apartments to guest rooms in private homes. Alternately, the C h i c a g o B e d a n d B re a k f a s t A s s o c i a t i o n (www.chicago-bed-breakfast.com) runs a website that links to various properties around the city.

Banking hours in Chicago normally run from 9am (8am, in some cases) to 5pm Monday through Friday, with select banks remaining open later on specified afternoons and evenings. BANKING HOURS

C O N S U L AT E S & E M B A S S I E S All embassies are located in the nation’s capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are located in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn’t listed below, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. (y 202/5551212), or log on to w w w. e m b a s s y. o rg / e m b a s s i e s . The embassy of A u s t ra l i a is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (y 202/7973000; www.austemb.org). There are consulates in New York, Honolulu, Los Angeles, and San Francisco. The embassy of C a n a d a is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 (y 202/682 -1740; www.canadianembassy.org). Canadian consulates are in Buffalo (New York State), Detroit, Los Angeles, New York, and Seattle. The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (y 202/ 4 6 2 -3939; www.irelandemb.org). Consulates are in Boston, Chicago, New York, San Francisco, and other cities.

The embassy of N ew Z e a l a n d is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (y 202/328 4800; www.nzemb.org). Consulates are in Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, and Seattle. The embassy of the U n i t e d K i n g d o m is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (y 202/462 -1340; www.britainusa. com). Consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Cleveland, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco, and Seattle. W h a t Yo u C a n B r i n g i n t o t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s Every visitor more than 21 years of age may bring in, free of duty, the following: 1 liter of wine or hard liquor; 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not claimed them within the preceding 6 months. It is altogether forbidden to bring into the country foodstuffs (particularly fruit, cooked meats, and canned goods) and plants (vegetables, seeds, tropical plants, and the like). Foreign tourists may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs on entering or leaving, which includes filing form CM 4790. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U . S . C u s t o m s (y 202/927 -1770; www.customs. ustreas.gov). C U STO M S

W h a t Yo u C a n Ta ke H o m e f ro m the United States: C a n a d i a n C i t i z e n s : For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the C a n a d a B o r d e r S e r v i c e s A g e n cy (y 800/461 -9 9 9 9 in

Fast Fa c t s

$19 per hour, with a 4-hour minimum, and a $20 fee for the agency.

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Canada, or 204/983-3500; www. cbsa-asfc.gc.ca). U . K . C i t i z e n s : For information, contact H M C u s t o m s & E xc i s e at y 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at w w w.h m c e .g ov. u k. A u s t ra l i a n C i t i z e n s : A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the A u s t ra l i a n C u st o m s S e r v i c e at y 1300/363 -263, or log on to w w w. c u s t o m s . g ov. a u. N ew Z e a l a n d C i t i z e n s : Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact N ew Z e a l a n d C u s t o m s , The Customhouse, 17–21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (y 04/473 -6 0 9 9 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz). D E N T I STS The referral service of the C h i c a g o D e n t a l S o c i e t y (y 312/836 -7 3 0 0 ; www.cds.org) can refer you to an area dentist. Your hotel concierge may also keep a list of dentists. D I N I N G You’ll save money on oftenexpensive room service by going out for breakfast. Most restaurants begin serving lunch by 11:30am, some as early as 11am. Dinner service usually starts at 5:30pm, with the last seating at 9:30pm, as many kitchens close around 10pm. The dress code in most Chicago restaurants is usually quite relaxed. For men, an open-collared shirt and khakis should be just fine, even in the nicer restaurants. A few places still maintain a coat-and-tie dress code (The Pump Room, p 117, is one of those). If you’re planning on doing some fine dining at an in-demand restaurant, such as Everest (p 101), you may need to book up to 3 months in

advance. Otherwise, most restaurant reservations can be made by calling the restaurant directly during the week that you’re visiting; you can always walk in, but waits may be long. Another option is to make a reservation through w w w. o p e n t a b l e . c o m, a free online reservations service. D O CTO R S In the event of a medical emergency, your best bet—unless you have friends who can recommend a doctor—is to rely on your hotel physician or go to the nearest hospital emergency room. N o r t hw e s t e r n M e m o r i a l H o s p i t a l also has a P h ys i c i a n R e fe r ra l S e r v i c e (y 877/926 -4 6 6 4). Also see “Hospitals” below. D R I N K I N G L A W S The legal age for the purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 21; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it’s always a good idea to bring ID when you go out. In Chicago, beer, wine, and other alcoholic beverages are sold at liquor stores and supermarkets. Bars may sell alcohol until 2am, although some nightclubs have special licenses that allow alcohol sales until 4am. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn’t zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. And nothing will ruin your trip faster than getting a citation for DUI (driving under the influence), so don’t even think about driving while intoxicated. E L E CT R I C I T Y Like Canada, the United States uses 110–120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220– 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. If your small appliances use 220–240 volts, you’ll need a 110-volt transformer and a plug adapter with two flat parallel pins to operate them here. Downward converters that change 220–240 volts to 110–120

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E M E R G E N C I E S For fire and police emergencies, call y 911. This is a free call. If it is a medical emergency, a city ambulance will take the patient to the nearest hospital emergency room. The nonemergency phone number for the Chicago Police Department is y 311. If you desire a specific, nonpublic ambulance, call Va n d e n b e rg A m b u l a n c e (y 773/521 -7 7 7 7). A centrally located emergency room in Chicago is N o r t h we s t e r n M e m o r i a l H o s p i t a l , 251 E. Huron St. (y 312/926 2000; www.nmh.org), a state-of-theart medical center right off North Michigan Avenue. The emergency department (y 312/926 -5188, or 312/944-2358 for TDD access) is located at 251 E. Erie St. near Fairbanks Court. E V E N T L I ST I N G S Every Thursday, the Chicago Reader (y 312/828 0350; www.chireader.com), a free weekly, publishes current entertainment and cultural listings. The Friday and “Weekend Plus” sections of the Chicago Tribune (y 312/222 3232; www.chicagotribune.com) and the Chicago Sun-Times (y 312/ 3 2 1 -3000; www.suntimes.com) also feature extensive event listings. Also, see “Useful Websites,” above. F A M I LY T R AV E L Look for items tagged with a “kids” icon in this book. You can pick up a free copy of Chicago Parent magazine at any local bookstore, public library, or park district building. The magazine includes a calendar of events geared to families with kids. For more extensive recommendations, you might want to purchase a copy of Frommer’s Chicago with Kids (Wiley Publishing, Inc.). G AY & L E S B I A N T R AV E L E R S Chicago is a very gay-friendly city. The neighborhood commonly referred to as

“Boys Town” (roughly from Belmont Ave. north to Irving Park Ave., and from Halsted St. east to the lakefront) is the center of gay nightlife (and plenty of daytime action, too). G ay a n d Le s b i a n P r i d e We e k (y 773/348 -8 2 4 3), highlighted by a lively parade on the North Side, is a major event on the Chicago calendar each June. You also might want to stop by U n a b r i d g e d B o o k s , 3251 N. Broadway (y 773/883 9 1 1 9), an excellent independent bookseller with a large lesbian and gay selection. Here and elsewhere in the Lakeview neighborhood, you can pick up several gay publications, including the weekly Chicago Free Press (www.chicagofreepress.com) and Windy City Times (www.windy citymediagroup.com/index.html), which both cover local news and entertainment. The I n t e r n a t i o n a l G ay a n d Le s b i a n Trav e l A s s o c i a t i o n (II G LTA ; y 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry. Its website offers an online directory of gay- and lesbianfriendly travel businesses. H O L I D AYS Banks, government offices, and post offices are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year’s Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King, Jr., Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents’ Day), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans’ Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas). Also, the Tuesday following the first Monday in November is Election Day and is a federal government holiday in presidential-election years (held every 4 years, and next in 2012). Stores, museums, and restaurants

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volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.

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are open most holidays, except for Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. Fo r D o m e s t i c V i s it o rs : Trip-cancellation insurance helps you get your money back if you have to back out of a trip, if you have to go home early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Allowed reasons for cancellation can range from sickness to natural disasters to the State Department declaring your destination unsafe for travel. (Insurers usually won’t cover vague fears, though.) In this unstable world, trip-cancellation insurance is a good buy if you’re getting tickets well in advance. Insurance policy details vary, so read the fine print—and especially make sure that your airline is on the list of carriers covered in case of bankruptcy. For information, contact one of the following insurers: A c c e s s A m e r i c a (y 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com), Trav e l G u a r d I n t e r n a t i o n a l (y 800/826 4919; www.travelguard.com), Trav e l I n s u re d I n t e r n a t i o n a l (y 800/243 -3174; www.travel insured.com), or Trav e l ex I n s u r a n c e S e r v i c e s (y 888/457 -4602; www.travelex-insurance.com). M e d i c a l I n s u ra n c e : Although it’s not required of travelers, health insurance is highly recommended. Unlike many European countries, the United States does not usually offer free or low-cost medical care to its citizens or visitors. Doctors and hospitals are expensive, and in most cases will require advance payment or proof of coverage before they render their services. Though lack of health insurance may prevent you from being admitted to a hospital in nonemergencies, don’t worry about being left on a street corner to die: The American way is to fix you now and bill the living daylights out of you later. INSURANCE

I n s u ra n c e fo r B r i t i s h Trav e l e rs : Most big travel agents offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. T h e A s s o c i a t i o n o f B r i t i s h I n s u re rs (y 020/7600 3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try C o l u m b u s D i rect (y 020/73750011; www.columbusdirect.net). I n s u ra n c e fo r C a n a d i a n Trav e l e rs : Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices, or call H e a l t h C a n a d a (y 613/9572991; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of your coverage and what documentation and receipts you must take home in case you are treated in the United States. Lo s t - L u g g a g e I n s u ra n c e : On domestic flights, checked baggage is covered up to $3,000 per ticketed passenger. On international flights (including U.S. portions of international trips), baggage is limited to approximately $9 per pound (1.1kg), up to approximately $635 per checked bag. If you plan to check items more valuable than the standard liability, see if your valuables are covered by your homeowner’s policy, or get baggage insurance as part of your comprehensive travelinsurance package. Don’t buy insurance at the airport, as it’s usually overpriced. Be sure to take any valuables or irreplaceable items with you in your carry-on luggage, since many valuables (including books, money, and electronics) aren’t covered by airline policies. If your luggage is lost, immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport, detailing the luggage contents. For most airlines, you must report delayed, damaged, or lost baggage within 4 hours of arrival. The airlines are required to deliver

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I N T E R N E T AC C E S S Many Chicago hotels have business centers equipped with computers available for guests’ use. Internet access is available to the public at the Harold Washington Library Center, 400 S. State St. (y 312/747 -4 3 0 0), and at the Internet cafe inside the Apple computer store at 679 N. Michigan Ave. (y 312/981 -4 1 0 4). Most Starbucks coffee shops and McDonald’s restaurants in downtown Chicago offer wireless Internet access. L I M O S For limo service from either O’Hare or Midway, call Carey L i m o us i n e o f C h i c a g o (y 773/763-0009) or C h i c a g o L i m o u s i n e S e r v i c e s (y 312/726 -1 0 3 5). LO ST & FO U N D Be sure to notify all your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen, and file a report at the nearest police precinct (y 3 1 1). Your insurance company may require a police report before covering any claims. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa’s U.S. emergency number is y 800/847 2 9 1 1 or 410/581-9994. American Express cardholders and traveler’s check holders should call y 800/ 2 2 1 -7282. MasterCard holders should call y 800/307-7309 or 636/ 722-7111. For other credit cards, call the toll-free number directory at y 800/555-1212. If you need emergency cash over the weekend, when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via W e s te r n U n i o n (y 800/325 -6000; www.westernunion.com). M A I L & P O STA G E The main post office is located at 433 W. Harrison

St. (y 312/983 -8 1 8 2); free parking is available. You can pick up mail at the main post office that is addressed to you and marked “General Delivery” (Poste Restante); you’ll need to show photo ID. Other branches can be found by calling y 800/275 -8 7 0 0 or logging onto www.usps.com. At press time, domestic postage rates were 27¢ for a postcard and 42¢ for a letter. For international mail, a first-class letter of up to 1 ounce costs 94¢ (72¢ to Canada and Mexico); a first-class postcard costs the same as a letter. For more information, go to www.usps.com and click on “calculate postage.” PA R K I N G Parking can be a nightmare, and regulations are vigorously enforced throughout the city. The streets around Michigan Avenue have no-parking restrictions during rush hour—believe me, your car will be towed immediately. Many neighborhoods have adopted residentonly parking that prohibits others from parking on their streets, usually after 6pm each day (even all day in a few areas, such as Old Town). The neighborhood around Wrigley Field is off-limits during Cubs night games, so look for yellow sidewalk signs alerting drivers about the dozen-and-a-half times the Cubs play under lights. The very best parking deal in the Loop is the cityrun E a s t M o n ro e G a ra g e (www. grantparkparking.com), which charges $13 for 12 hours or fewer (enter on Columbus St., just east of Michigan Ave., and just south of E. Randolph St.). PA S S E S The Chicago C i t y Pa s s gets you into the city’s biggest attractions (The Art Institute, Field Museum of Natural History, Shedd Aquarium, Adler Planetarium, Museum of Science and Industry, and Hancock Observatory) at a 50% discount over the museums’ individual admission

Fast Fa c t s

luggage, once found, directly to your house or destination free of charge.

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fees. The cost at press time was $59 for adults and $49 for kids. You can buy a CityPass (valid for 9 days from its first use) at any of the museums listed above, or purchase one online before you get to town (www.city pass.com). PA S S P O RTS F o r R e s i d e n t s o f A u s t ra l i a : You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the A u s t ra l i a n Pa s s p o r t I n fo r m a t i o n S e r v i c e at y 1 3 1 -232, or visit the government website at w w w. p a s s p o r t s . g ov. a u.

Fo r R e s i d e n t s o f C a n a d a : Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Pa s s p o r t O f f i c e , Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (y 800/567 -6868; www.ppt. gc.ca). N o t e : Canadian children who travel must have their own passport. However, if you hold a valid Canadian passport issued before December 11, 2001, that bears the name of your child, the passport remains valid for you and your child until it expires. F o r R e s i d e n t s o f I re l a n d : You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Pa s s p o r t O f f i c e , Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (y 01/ 6 71 -1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (y 021/272 -5 2 5), or at most main post offices. F o r R e s i d e n t s o f N ew Z e a l a n d : You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Pa s s p o r t s O f f i c e at y 0800/225 -0 5 0 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to w w w. p a s s p o r t s . g ov t . n z.

Fo r R e s i d e n t s o f t h e U n i t e d K i n g d o m : To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5yr. passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the U n i t e d K i n g d o m Pa s s p o r t S e r v i c e at y 0870/521 0 4 1 0 , or search its website at w w w. u k p a . g ov. u k. International visitors should always keep a photocopy of their passport with them when traveling. If your passport is lost or stolen, having a copy significantly facilitates the reissuing process at a local consulate or embassy. Keep your passport and other valuables in your room’s safe or in the hotel safe. P H A R M AC I E S Located on the Magnificent Mile just south of the Water Tower, W a l g re e n s , 757 N. Michigan Ave. at Chicago Avenue (y 312/ 6 6 4 -4000; www.walgreens.com), is open 24 hours. S A F E T Y Chicago has all the crime problems of any urban center, so use your common sense and stay cautious and alert. After dark, try to stick to well-lighted streets along the Magnificent Mile, River North, Gold Coast, and Lincoln Park, which are all high-traffic areas, even late into the night. Avoid such neighborhoods as Hyde Park, Wicker Park (beyond the busy intersection of Milwaukee, Damen, and North aves.), and Pilsen, which border more troublesome areas. Don’t walk on empty streets alone at night, even those that seem perfectly safe. Muggings can—and do—happen anywhere. When in doubt, ask your hotel’s concierge. The El is generally quite safe, even at night, although some of the downtown stations can feel eerily deserted late in the evening. Buses are a safe option, too, especially nos. 146 and 151, which pick up along North Michigan Avenue and State Street and connect to the North Side via Lincoln Park.

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S P E CTATO R S P O RTS Chicago fans are nothing if not loyal, and, for that reason, attending a home game in any sport is an uplifting experience. The C h i c a g o B e a rs (y 847/295 6600; www.chicagobears.com) are not the celebrated NFL team of the past, but that doesn’t stop locals from partying out at Soldier Field in freezing “Bear Weather.” The C h i c a g o B u l l s (y 312/4554000) aren’t the NBA team of Michael Jordan’s heyday, but on the plus side, it’s a lot easier to get tickets. The NHL’s C h i c a g o B l a c k h aw k s (y 312/455-7000; www.chicago blackhawks.com) have a devoted, impassioned following of fans who work themselves into a frenzy despite the lack of on-ice heroics. Baseball and Chicago share a checkered past (the city’s best known for the 1919 “Black Sox” scandal and the perennially losing Cubs). Still, no matter how poorly the C h i c a g o C u b s (y 773/404C U B S ; www.cubs.mlb.com) are doing in the standings, a trip out to Wrigley Field is a special Chicago experience and tickets go fast; most weekend and night games are sold out by Memorial Day. The C h i c a g o W h i t e S ox (y 312/674 -1000; www.whitesox.mlb.com) don’t command the kind of loyalty the Cubs do, but do offer a brand-new stadium and obtainable tickets.

The local sales tax is 10.25%. Restaurants in the central part of the city, roughly the 312 area code, are taxed an additional 1%, for a total of 11.25%. The hotel room tax is a steep 15.4%. TA X E S

TA X I S See “By Taxi” in “Getting Around,” above.

For d i re c t o r y a s s i s t a n c e (“information”), dial 411. Hotel surcharges on long-distance and local calls are astronomical, so you’re usually better off using a c e l l or p u b l i c p ay t e l e p h o n e , which you’ll find clearly marked in most public buildings and private establishments as well as on the street. Lo c a l c a l l s made from public pay phones in Chicago usually cost 50¢. Pay phones do not accept pennies, and none will take anything larger than a quarter. TELEPHONES

T I C K E TS Theater tickets should always be obtained as far in advance as possible; if you’re set on seeing the latest touring Broadway production, you might need to book up to 3 months in advance. Tickets for most major Chicago events are sold through T i c ke t m a s t e r (y 312/ 5 5 9 -1212; www.ticketmaster.com). H o t T i x (y 312/554 -9800; www. hottix.org), operated by the League of Chicago Theatres, sells same-day, half-price tickets. For more information on buying discount tickets in advance, see p 127. T I P P I N G In hotels, tip b e l l h o p s at least $1 per bag and tip the c h a m b e r s t a f f $1 to $2 per day (more if you’ve left a disaster area). Tip the d o o r m a n or c o n c i e rg e only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficultto-get theater tickets). Tip the v a l e t p a r k i n g a t t e n d a n t $1 every time you get your car. In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip s e r v i c e s t a f f 15% to 20% of the check, tip b a r t e n d e rs 10% to 15%, tip c h e c k ro o m a t t e n d a n t s $1

Fast Fa c t s

Shops generally keep normal business hours, 10am to 6pm Monday through Saturday. Most stores stay open late at least 1 evening a week, usually on Thursday. Certain shops, such as bookstores, stay open during the evening hours all week. Most shops and malls (other than those in the Loop) open on Sunday, usually from noon to 5pm. Malls generally stay open to 7pm the rest of the week. Note that the local sales tax, a steep 10.25%, is the highest of all major cities in the United States. SHOPPING

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per garment, and tip v a l e t - p a r k i n g a t t e n d a n t s $1 per vehicle. As for other service personnel, tip c a b d r i ve rs 15% of the fare; tip s k yc a p s at airports at least $1 per bag; and tip h a i r d re s s e rs and b a r b e rs 15% to 20%. TO I L E TS You won’t find public toilets or restrooms on the streets. Your best bet for good, clean facilities are hotel lobbies, bars, fast-food restaurants, museums, and department stores. If possible, avoid toilets at parks and beaches, which tend to be dirty.

The main C h i c a g o O f f i c e o f To u r i s m V i s i t o r C e n t e r (y 8 7 7 / C H I C AG O or TTY 866/7100294; www.877chicago.com) is on the first floor of the Chicago Cultural Center, 77 E. Randolph St. (at Michigan Ave.). The smaller C h i c a g o Wa t e r W o r k s V i s i t o r C e n t e r is in the heart of the city’s shopping district, in the old pumping station at Michigan and Chicago avenues. The I l l i n o i s B u re a u o f To u r i s m operates an information desk in the lobby of the James R. Thompson Center (y 312/814 -9 6 0 0), 100 W. Randolph St. TO U R I ST O F F I C E S

TO U R I ST T R A P S & S C A M S If you’re planning on attending sporting or concert events, beware of ticket scalpers. Buy your tickets in advance from a legitimate source, as many of the tickets sold by scalpers are counterfeit.

G ray L i n e (y 800/621 4 1 5 3 or 312/251-3107; www. grayline.com) offers several orientation and neighborhood tours of the city in well-appointed buses. Tours run $25 to $40. The C h i c a g o G re e t e r (y 312/ 7 4 4 -8000; www.chicagogreeter. com) program matches tourists with local Chicagoans who serve as volunteer guides. Visitors may request a specific neighborhood or theme TO U R S

(everything from Polish heritage sites to Chicago movie locations), and a greeter gives them a free, 2to 4-hour tour. (Greeters won’t escort groups of more than six people.) Specific requests should be made at least a week in advance. C h i c a g o Tro l l ey C o m p a n y (y 773/648 -5000; www.chicago trolley.com) offers guided tours on a fleet of rubber-wheeled “San Francisco–style” trolleys that stop at a number of popular spots around the city. You can stay on for the full 11⁄2hour ride or get on and off at each stop. An all-day hop-on, hop-off pass costs $29 adults, $21 seniors, and $19 kids 3 to 11. Started in 1935, W e n d e l l a S i g h t s e e i n g B o a t s (y 312/337 1 4 4 6 ; www.wendellaboats.com) operates a 1-hour tour along the Chicago River and a 11⁄2-hour tour along the river and out onto Lake Michigan. Tours run April to October. Tickets cost $23 adults, $21 seniors, $12 kids under 12. T R AV E L E R S W I T H D I S A B I L I T I E S Most of Chicago’s sidewalks, as well as major museums and tourist attractions, are fitted with wheelchair ramps. Many hotels provide special accommodations for visitors in wheelchairs, such as ramps and large bathrooms, as well as telecommunications devices for visitors with hearing impairments; enquire when you make your reservation. Pa c e B u s offers door-to-door lift services to and from O’Hare International Airport for travelers with disabilities. One week’s notice is required, and visitors must be registered with a similar program in their home city. For information, call y 800/606-1282, or visit www. pacebus.com. Several of the C h i c a g o Tra n s i t A u t h o r i t y ’s ( CTA’s ) El stations on each line are fitted with elevators. Call the CTA at y 312/836 -7 0 0 0 for a list of those that are accessible. All

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Chicago operates a 24-hour information service for hearing-impaired callers with TTY equipment; call y 3 1 2 / 7 4 4 -8 5 9 9 . For specific information on facilities for people with disabilities, call or write the M ay o r ’s O f f i c e fo r Pe o p l e w i t h D i s a b i l i t i e s , 121 N. LaSalle St., Room 1104, Chicago, IL 60602 (y 312/744 -7 0 5 0 for voice; 312/744-4964 for TTY). W E AT H E R For current weather conditions and the National Weather Service’s forecast, dial y 312/976 1 21 2 (for a fee), or check the weather online at www.chicago tribune.com or www.weather.com.

Chicago: A B r i e f H i s t o r y French explorers Marquette and Joliet discover portage at Chicago linking the Great Lakes region with the Mississippi River valley.

1673

Great Chicago Fire burns large sections of the city; rebuilding begins while the ashes are still warm.

1871

The 10-story Montauk Building, the world’s first skyscraper, is erected.

1882

Afro-French-Canadian trapper Jean Baptiste Point du Sable establishes a trading post on the north bank of the Chicago River. A settlement follows 2 years later.

1885

Illinois is admitted to the Union as the 21st state.

1886

1779

1818

Town of Chicago is officially incorporated, with little more than 300 residents.

1833

William Le Baron Jenney’s nine-story Home Insurance Building, the world’s first steel-frame skyscraper, is built. Dynamite bomb explodes during a political rally near Haymarket Square, causing a riot in which eight policemen and four civilians are killed, and almost 100 are wounded.

Chicago is incorporated as a city, with about 4,000 residents.

1892

Chicago Tribune begins publishing.

1893

1837

1847

The 96-mile (154km) Illinois and Michigan Canal is opened, linking the Great Lakes with the Mississippi River.

1848

Chicago stockyards are founded.

1865

The city’s first elevated train goes into operation. Chicago hosts its first World’s Fair, the World’s Columbian Exposition. The flow of the Chicago River is reversed to end the dumping of sewage into Lake Michigan.

1900

Chicago: A B r i e f H i s t o r y

city buses are equipped to accommodate wheelchairs. H o r i z o n s fo r t h e B l i n d , 2 N. Williams St., Crystal Lake, IL 60014 (y 815/444 -8 8 0 0), is a social-service agency that can provide information about local hotels equipped with Braille signage and cultural attractions that offer Braille signage and special tours. The I l l i n o i s R e l ay C e n t e r enables hearing- and speech-impaired TTY callers to call individuals or businesses without TTYs 24 hours a day. Calls are confidential and billed at regular phone rates. Call TTY at y 800/526 -0 8 4 4 or voice 800/526-0857. The city of

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“Black Sox” bribery scandal perpetrated by eight Chicago White Sox players stuns baseball.

1919

During Prohibition, Chicago becomes a “wide-open town”; rival mobs battle violently throughout the city for control of distribution and sale of illegal alcohol.

1920–33

University of Chicago students Nathan Leopold and Richard Loeb murder 14-year-old Bobby Franks. They are defended by famed attorney Clarence Darrow in the “Trial of the Century.”

1924

On St. Valentine’s Day, Al Capone’s gang murders seven members of rival George “Bugs” Moran’s crew in a Clark Street garage.

1929

Al Capone finally goes to jail for tax evasion.

1931

Chicago Mayor Anton Cermak, on a political trip to Miami, is shot and killed during an attempt on president-elect FDR’s life.

1933

Chicago hosts its second World’s Fair, “A Century of Progress.”

1933–34

Bank robber and “Public Enemy Number One” John Dillinger is gunned down by police outside the Biograph Theater.

1934

Scientists, led by Enrico Fermi, create the world’s first nuclear chain reaction under Stagg Field at the University of Chicago.

1942

Chicago native Hugh Hefner starts publishing Playboy (the original Playboy Mansion was located in Chicago’s Gold Coast neighborhood).

1953

Richard J. Daley begins term as mayor; he is widely regarded as the “last of the big-city bosses.”

1955

Civil rights leader Martin Luther King, Jr., moves to Chicago to lead a fair housing campaign.

1966

Anti–Vietnam War protests in conjunction with the Democratic National Convention end in police riot and a “shoot to kill” order by Mayor Richard J. Daley.

1968

The 1,454-foot Sears Tower is completed, becoming the tallest building in the world.

1974

Jane Byrne becomes the first woman elected mayor of Chicago.

1979

Harold Washington becomes the first African-American mayor of Chicago.

1983

The Chicago Bears win their only Super Bowl.

1986

Richard M. Daley, the son of the long-serving mayor, is elected mayor.

1989

The city patches up its turbulent political history by hosting the Democratic National Convention, its first national political gathering in 3 decades.

1996

Chicago’s second airport, Midway, opens a new $800million terminal.

2001

Millennium Park, Chicago’s largest public works project in decades, opens at the north end of Grant Park.

2004

Spertus Museum, 610 S. Michigan Ave. (y 312/322 1 7 4 7), added another example of eye-catching architecture to Michigan Avenue with the opening of its new building dedicated to Jewish history, art and culture in fall 2007.

2007

Trump International Hotel and Tower opens at 401 N. Wabash Ave. The 92-story building becomes the second-tallest in Chicago, after the Sears Tower.

2008

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Although the Great Chicago Fire leveled almost 3 square miles (2.6 sq. km) of the downtown area in 1871, it did clear the stage for Chicago’s emergence as the country’s preeminent city for architecture. To learn more about Chicago’s architecture, take a tour by foot, boat, or bus with the Chicago Architecture Foundation. (See p 14, 1.)

Richardsonian Romanesque (1870–1900) Boston-based architect Henry Hobson Richardson (1838–86) explored designs and forms based on the Romanesque (a style distinguished by rounded arches, thick walls, and small windows). His structures, ranging from university and civic buildings to railroad stations and homes, were marked by a simplification of form and the elimination of extraneous ornament and historical detail—features that set his buildings apart from others of the period.

John J. Glessner House

The overall effect depended on mass, volume, and scale. Richardsonian Romanesque buildings share the following characteristics: • A massive quality • Arched entrances • Squat towers • Deeply recessed porches and doorways • Heavy masonry exteriors • Use of rough-hewn stone Richardson’s J o h n J . G l e s s n e r H o u s e , 1800 S. Prairie Ave. (1885–87), an elegant urban residence, still stands on Chicago’s near South Side. It had a strong influence on Chicago architects, notably Louis Sullivan. The most celebrated example of Richardson’s influence is the A u d i t o r i u m B u i l d i n g , 430 S. Michigan Ave. (1887–89), an important early example of the emerging Chicago skyscraper.

Chicago’s A rc h i t e c t u re

Chicago’s A rc h i t e c t u re

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E a r l y S k y s c ra p e rs ( 1 8 8 0 – 1 9 2 0 ) Experimentation with cast and wrought iron in the construction of interior skeletons in the 1840s eventually allowed buildings to rise to previously unattainable heights. Following the Great Chicago Fire of 1871, important technical innovations—involving safety elevators, electricity, fireproofing, foundations, plumbing, and telecommunications—combined with advances in skeletal construction to create a new building type, the skyscraper. These buildings were spacious, cost-effective, efficient, and quickly erected—in short, the perfect architectural solution for Chicago’s growing downtown. Solving the technical problems of the skyscraper did not resolve how the building should look. Most solutions relied on historical precedents, including decoration reminiscent of the Romanesque, with its rounded arches; Gothic, with its spires, pointy arches, and even buttresses; or Beaux Arts, with its exuberant classical details. Louis Sullivan (1865–1924) was the first to formalize a vision of a tall building based on the parts of a classical column. His theories inspired the C h i c a g o s c h o o l o f a rc h i t e c t u re , examples of which still fill the city’s downtown. Features of the Chicago school include: • A rectangular shape with a flat roof • Tripartite divisions of the facade similar to that of a classical column with a base (usually of two stories), shaft (midsection with a repetitive window pattern), and capital (typically an elaborate, terra cotta cornice) • Exterior expression of the building’s interior skeleton through an emphasis on horizontal and vertical elements

• Large windows made possible by the development of load-bearing interior skeletons; particularly popular are Chicago windows (large windows flanked by two narrow ones with double-hung sashes) • Use of terra cotta, a light and fireproof material that could be cast in any shape and attached to the exterior, often for decoration A good example of the development of the skyscraper is the M o na d n o c k B u i l d i n g , 53 W. Jackson Blvd. (1889–93). Built in two parts, the northern section has masonry load-bearing walls, while the southern half has a steel frame clad in terra cotta. To support its 17 stories, the northern section has 6-foot-thick (1.8m) walls at its base. The entire building is notable for its clean, contemporary lines. An excellent example of the Chicago school is the recently restored R e l i a n c e B u i l d i n g (p 10, 5), now Hotel Burnham (p 139), 1 W. Washington St. (1891– 95), outstanding for its use of glass and decorative spandrels (the horizontal panel below a window). A good later example (taller and more technically sophisticated than its earlier incarnations) that most visitors will pass at some point during their visit is the Tr i b u n e To w e r, 435 N. Michigan Ave. (1923–25).

S e c o n d R e n a i s s a n c e R ev i va l (1890–1920) Buildings in this style show a definite studied formalism. A relative faithfulness to Renaissance precedents of window and doorway treatments distinguish it from the much looser adaptations of the Italianate, a mid-19th-century style that took its inspiration from Italian architecture. Scale and size, in turn, set the Second Renaissance Revival apart

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• The mixing of Greek and Roman styles on the same facade (Roman arches and arcades may appear with Greek-style windows with straight-heads or pediments, a low-pitched triangular feature above a window, door, or pavilion)

• A cubelike structure with a massive, imposing quality

• A balustrade (a railing supported by a series of short posts) above the cornice

• Symmetrical arrangement of the facade, including distinct horizontal divisions • A different stylistic treatment for each floor, with different column capitals, finishes, and window treatments on each level • Use of rustification (masonry cut in massive blocks and separated from each other by deep joints) on the lowest floor

• A cornice (a projecting feature along the roofline) supported by large brackets

A fine example of this style is the C h i c a g o C u l t u ra l C e n t e r (p 19, 1), 78 E. Washington St. (1897), originally built as a public library. This tasteful edifice, with its sumptuous decor, was constructed in part to help secure Chicago’s reputation as a culture-conscious city.

Capital

Shaft

Base Reliance Building

Reliance Building and Classical Column

Classical Column

Chicago’s A rc h i t e c t u re

from the first, which occurred from about 1840 to 1890. The grand buildings of the Second Renaissance Revival, with their textural richness, well suited the tastes of the wealthy Gilded Age. The style was used primarily on the East Coast but also in Chicago for swank town houses, government buildings, and private clubs. Typical features include:

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Chicago Cultural Center

B e a u x A r ts (1890–1920) This style takes its name from the Ecole des Beaux-Arts in Paris, where a number of prominent American architects (including H. H. Richardson and Louis Sullivan) received their training, beginning around the mid–19th century. These architects adopted the academic principles of the Ecole, which emphasized the study of Greek and Roman structures, composition, and symmetry, and the creation of elaborate presentation drawings. Because of the idealized origins and grandiose use of classical forms, the Beaux Arts in America was seen as the ideal style for expressing civic pride. Grandiose compositions, an exuberance of detail, and a variety of stone finishes typify most Beaux Arts structures. Particular features include: • A pronounced cornice topped by a parapet (a low wall), balustrade, or attic story • Projecting pavilions, often with colossal columns grouped in pairs • Windows framed by free-standing columns, a sill with a balustrade, and pediments or decorative keystones (the central stone of an arch) • Grand staircases • Grand arched openings • Classical decoration: free-standing statuary, ornamental panels, swags, and medallions

Chicago has several Beaux Arts buildings, exhibiting the style’s main features. Examples include the oldest part of the A r t I n s t i t u t e o f C h i c a g o , Michigan Avenue at Adams Street, which was built for the World’s Columbian Exposition in 1893; and the gleaming white W r i g l ey B u i l d i n g , 400–410 N. Michigan Ave. (1919–24), which serves as a gateway to North Michigan Avenue.

A r t Deco (1925–33) Art Deco is a decorative style that took its name from the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratif, held in Paris in 1925. One of the first widely accepted styles not based on historic precedents (the jazzy style embodied the idea of modernity), it influenced all areas of design, from jewelry and household goods to cars, trains, and ocean liners. Art Deco buildings are characterized by a linear, hard edge or angular composition, often with a vertical emphasis and highlighted with stylized decoration. The Chicago zoning ordinance of 1923, which required setbacks in buildings above a certain height to ensure that light and air could reach the street, gave Art Deco skyscrapers their distinctive profile. Other important features include: • An emphasis on geometric form • Strips of windows with decorated spandrels, adding to the sense of verticality

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• Frequent use of marble and black and silver tones • Decorative motifs of parallel straight lines, zigzags, chevrons (see illustration at left), and stylized florals Prime examples of this period include the C h i c a g o B o a r d o f Tra d e , 141 W. Jackson Blvd. (1930), with its dramatic facade and pyramidal roof; and 1 3 5 S . La S a l l e S t . (1934), which has a magnificent Art Deco lobby.

I n t e rnational Style (1932–45) The International Style was popularized in the United States after 1932 through the teachings and designs of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe (1886–1969), a German émigré who taught and practiced architecture in Chicago after leaving the progressive Bauhaus school of design. Structures all shared a stark simplicity and vigorous functionalism, a definite break from historically based, decorative styles. Interpretations of the “Miesian” International Style were built in most U.S. cities as late as 1980. In the 1950s, erecting an office building in this mode made companies appear progressive. In later decades, after the International Style was a corporate mainstay, the style took on conservative connotations. Features of the International Style as popularized by Mies van der Rohe include:

• A rectangular shape • Frequent use of glass • Balance and regularity, but not symmetry • Horizontal bands of windows • Windows meeting at corners • Absence of ornamentation • Clear expression of the building’s form and function (the interior structure of stacked office floors is clearly visible, as are the locations of mechanical systems, such as elevator shafts and airconditioning units) • Placement, or cantilevering, of building on tall piers Some famous Mies van der Rohe designs are the C h i c a g o Fe d e ra l C e n t e r, Dearborn Street between Adams Street and Jackson Boulevard (1959–74), and 8 6 0 –8 8 0 N . La ke S h o re D r. (1949–51). Interesting interpretations of the style by Skidmore, Owings & Merrill, a Chicago firm that helped make the International Style a corporate staple, are the S e a rs To w e r (1968–74), and the J o h n H a n c o c k C e n t e r (1969; p 34, 5)—two impressive engineering feats rising to 110 and 100 stories, respectively.

Po s t m o d e r n (1975–90) Postmodernism burst on the scene in the 1970s with the reintroduction of historical precedents in architecture. With many feeling that the office towers of the previous

Chicago Board of Trade

Chicago’s A rc h i t e c t u re

• Use of hard-edged, low-relief ornamentation around doors and windows

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1 9 0 S . La S a l l e S t re e t (1987) brings the shape of a famous Chicago building back to the skyline. The overall design is that of the 1892 Masonic Temple (now razed), complete with the tripartite divisions of the Chicago school. An extremely modern interpretation of a three-part skyscraper—but you have to look for the divisions to find them—is 3 3 3 W. W a c ke r D r i ve (1979–83; p 28, 3), an elegant, greenglass structure that curves along a bend in the Chicago River.

style were too cold, postmodernists began to incorporate classical details and recognizable forms into their designs— often applied in outrageous proportions. Postmodern skyscrapers tend to include: • An overall shape (or incorporation) of a recognizable object not necessarily associated with architecture • Classical details, such as columns, domes, or vaults, often oversize and used in inventive ways • A distinctive profile in the skyline • Use of stone rather than glass

190 S. LaSalle Street

To l l - Fre e N u m b e rs & W e b s i t e s Airlines

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y 800/474-7424 in the U.S. y 01/886-8888 in Ireland

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y 800/247-9297 y 0345/222-111 or 0845/77-333-77 in

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AMERICAN AIRLINES

FRONTIER AIRLINES

y 800/433-7300

y 800/432-1359

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177 C O M F O RT I N N S

y 800/225-2525

y 800/228-5150

www.nwa.com

www.hotelchoice.com

QA N TA S

C R OW N E P L A Z A H OT E LS

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y 888/303-1746 www.crowneplaza.com

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y 800/EMBASSY

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y 800/819-5053

y 800/241-6522

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y 800/HILTONS

y 800/428-4322

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H O L I D AY I N N

y 800/HOLIDAY C a r- R e n t a l A g e n c i e s

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A LA M O

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y 800/327-9633

y 800/654-2000

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AV I S

H YAT T H OT E LS & R E S O RTS

y 800/331-1212 in the

y 800/228-9000

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y 800/TRY-AVIS in Canada

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y 800/23LOEWS

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y 800/228-9290

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y 800/333-3333

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y 800/241-3333

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I n d ex

178

I n d ex See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes, below.

A Access America, 164 Accommodations, 131–144. See also Accommodations Index best, 132 tipping, 167 Adler, Dankmar, 41 Adler and Sullivan, 48 Airlines, 176–177 Airports, 157 Air travel, 157 Algren, Nelson, House, 56 Alice Millar Chapel (Evanston), 151 Ambulances, 163 American ChildCare Service, 160–161 American Girl Place, 84 Amtrak, 158 Andersonville, 60–63 A New Leaf, 52 The Antiquarians Building, 75 Antique Resources, 75 Antiques, 75 Anton Franzen House, 52 Apartment rentals, 160 Apollo 8 Command Module, 44 The Apple Store, 79 Aquarium, John G. Shedd, 6, 21–22 Architecture, 171–176 around the Loop, 26–31 Magnificent Mile, 33–35 Oak Park, 5 Old Town, 51–53 Architecture River Cruise, Chicago Architecture Foundation, 14 Area codes, 160 Around the Coyote, 84 Art and art museums, 39–41 Art Deco, 174–175 Art fairs, 84 Art galleries, 82 Arthur Rubloff Collection of Paperweights, 40 Art Institute of Chicago, 10, 38–41, 174 gift shop, 81

Arts and entertainment, 119–130 best, 120 classical music and concerts, 125 comedy clubs, 125–126 current listings, 128 dance performances, 126 movies, 126–127 opera, 127 spectator sports, 130 theater, 127–130 Art supplies, 75 Astor Court, 49 A Sunday on La Grande Jatte (Seurat), 4 At Home Inn Chicago, 144, 161 ATMs (automated teller machines), 160 Auditorium Building and Theatre, 20–21, 171 Australia customs regulations, 162 embassy and consulates, 161 passports, 166 Aveda, 76

B Babysitting, 160 Bailly Homestead, 88 Ballet, 126 Banking hours, 161 Barbara’s Bookstore, 76 Barnes & Noble, 76 Barneys New York, 77 Bars, 113–116 piano, 117–118 Baum, L. Frank, 15 Beauty products and cosmetics, 76 Beaux Arts, 31, 174 Bed & breakfasts (B&Bs), 161 Beer Baron Row, 56 Belly Dance Maternity, 77 The Berghoff, 113 Bike Chicago, 94 Biking, 94 Bin 36, 113 Bloomingdale’s, 79 Blue Chicago, 116 Blue Chicago Store, 83 Blue Man Group, 127 Blue Mercury, 76 B.L.U.E.S., 5, 116 Blues clubs, 116–117 Boat tours, 168

Bookstores, 76–77 lesbian and gay, 163 Borders, 76 BP Pedestrian Bridge, 11 Brehon Pub, 113 Britannica Centre, 20 Broadway Antique Market, 75 Buckingham Fountain, 21 Bucktown and Wicker Park, 55–59 Bucktown Arts Fest, 84 Buddy Guy’s Legends, 116 Burnham, Daniel H., 30, 49, 68, 93 Burnham and Root, 30 Bus tours, 168 Bus travel, 158–159

C Cadillac Palace Theatre, 31 Cafes, 118 The California Clipper, 118 Calumet Dune Trail, 88 Calumet Expressway, 158 Canada customs regulations, 161–162 embassy and consulates, 161 insurance, 164 passports, 166 Carey Limousine of Chicago, 165 Carousel, 37 Car rentals, 156–157, 177 Car travel, 158, 160 Cash points, 160 Cellphones, 156, 167 Celtic Crossings, 113 Charles Gates Dawes Mansion (Evanston), 152 Charnley-Persky House, 48 Checker Cab, 160 Chellberg Farm, 88 Chicago (Miro), 9 Chicago Academy of Fine Arts, 39 Chicago Air & Water Show, 155 Chicago ArchiCenter, 19 gift shop, 81 Chicago Architecture Foundation, 19 Architecture River Cruise, 14 Chicago Auto Show, 154 Chicago Bears, 167 Chicago Bed and Breakfast Association, 161 Chicago Blackhawks, 167 Chicago Blues Festival, 155

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179 CityPass, 165–166 Civic Opera Building, 27–28 Classical music and concerts, 125 Clothing, 77 Cloud Gate, 6, 11 The Coal Mine, 43 Cobb Gate, 66–67 Cobb Lecture Hall, 67 Cohn, Harris, House, 56 Colleen Moore’s Fairy Castle, 43–44 Columbia Yacht Club, 93 Comedy clubs, 125–126 Consulates and embassies, 161–162 Continental Airport Express, 157–158 Coq d’Or, 117 Corner Bakery, 20 County Building, 29 Cram, Ralph Adams, 33 Crilly Court, 51 Crown Family Playlab, 22 Crown Fountain, 11 Crystal Gardens, 37 Cubby Bear, 113 The Cubs, 154, 167. See also Wrigley Field Cullen’s Bar and Grill, 113 Customs regulations, 161

D Damen Avenue, windowshopping along, 59 Dance Chicago festival, 155 Dance performances, 126 Dan Ryan Expressway, 158 Dawes, Charles Gates, Mansion (Evanston), 152 Deering Library (Evanston), 151 Dentists, 162 Department stores, 79–80 DeWitt Place, 160 Dining, 95–106, 162. See also Restaurant Index best, 96 tipping, 167 Dinosaur Expedition, 37 Directory assistance, 167 Disabilities, travelers with, 168–169 Doctors, 162 Doggie Beach at Belmont Harbor, 91 Dorothy Buell Memorial Visitor Center, 88 The Drake Hotel, 33 Drinking laws, 162 Duke of Perth, 113 Dusty Groove America, 83

E East Monroe Garage, 165 Ebenezer Lutheran Church, 63 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition, 22, 35, 39, 43 The El (Elevated Train), 4, 9, 157 wheelchair accessibility, 168 Elbo Room, 118 Electricity, 162–163 Electronics, 79 Elements, 77 Embassies and consulates, 161–162 Emerald City Theatre Company, 128 Emergencies, 163 Ernest Hemingway Museum (Oak Park), 149 Evanston, 151–152

F Facets Multi-Media, 126 Fado, 114 Family travel, 163 The Farm (Lincoln Park Zoo), 16 Farmers’ markets, 81 Father Time Antiques, 75 Ferris Wheel, 37 Festivals and special events, 154–156 Field Museum of Natural History, 22, 23 57th Street Art Fair, 84 The Fine Arts Building, 20 Flash Cab, 160 Flat Iron Building, 58 Ford Center for the Performing Arts Oriental Theatre, 31 Fourth Presbyterian Church, 33 Fox & Obel Food Market, 80 Franzen, Anton, House, 52 Fullerton Avenue Bridge, 17

G Gallery 37 Store, 81–82 Gamekeepers, 114 Gay and Lesbian Pride Parade, 155 Gay and Lesbian Pride Week, 163 Gays and lesbians, information and resources, 163 Gene Siskel Film Center, 126–127 Georg Jensen, 82

I n d ex

Chicago Board of Trade, 29–30, 175 Chicago Boat, RV & Outdoor Show, 154 Chicago Bulls, 167 Chicago Card, 159 Chicago Children’s Museum, 37 Chicago City Council, 29 Chicago Cubs, 154, 167. See also Wrigley Field Chicago Cultural Center, 19, 125, 173 The Chicago Dance and Music Alliance, 128 Chicago Dental Society, 162 Chicago Federal Center, 175 Chicago Green City Market, 4, 17 Chicago Greeter program, 168 Chicago Hilton and Towers, 24 Chicago History Museum, 53 Chicago International Film Festival, 155 Chicago Jazz Festival, 155 Chicago Limousine Services, 165 Chicago Office of Tourism, 142, 154 Chicago Office of Tourism Visitor Center, 168 Chicago Opera Theater, 127 Chicago Place, 83 Chicago Public Library/ Harold Washington Library Center, 10 Chicago Reader, 163 Chicago River, 5 Chicago school of architecture, 172 Chicago Shakespeare Theater, 128 Chicago Stock Exchange, Old, Original Trading Floor of, 41 Chicago Symphony Orchestra, 125 Chicago Theatre, 31 Chicago Transit Authority (CTA), 158, 168 Chicago Trolley Company, 168 Chicago Water Tower and Pumping Station, 34 Chicago Water Works Visitor Center, 168 Chicago White Sox, 167 Children’s Museum of Immigration, 62 City Council, 29 City Hall/County Building, 29

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I n d ex

180 Germania Club, 51 Gift shops, 81 Glove Me Tender, 77 The Goddess and Grocer/Cru Wine Bar and Cafe, 80–81 The Gold Coast, 46–49 Goodman Theatre, 31, 128–129 Goose Island Brewing Company, 114 Graham Foundation for Advanced Studies in the Fine Arts, 47 Grant Park, Buckingham Fountain, 21 Grant Park Music Festival, 10, 155 Gray Line, 168 The Great Hall of European Arms and Armor, 41 The Green Mill, 6, 118 Greyhound, 158 Griffins & Gargoyles Ltd., 75 Grosse Point Lighthouse and Maritime Museum (Evanston), 151 GSM (Global System for Mobiles) wireless network, 156

H Hans D. Runge House, 57 Harris Cohn House, 56 Health insurance, 164 Hemingway, Ernest, 147 Birthplace (Oak Park), 149 Museum (Oak Park), 149 Henry Crown Space Center, 6, 44, 68 Hermann Weinhardt House, 57 Hermès, 77 The Hideout, 118 Highways, interstate, 158 Historic Pleasant Home (Oak Park), 148–149 History of Chicago, 169–170 Holiday Club, 114 Holidays, 163–164 Hopleaf Bar, 63 Horizons for the Blind, 169 Hotels, 131–144. See also Accommodations Index best, 132 tipping, 167 Hot Tix, 127, 167 House of Blues, 116 House of Glunz, 81 Hubbard Street Dance Chicago, 126 Hyde Park, 6, 65–68

I Ikram, 77–78 Illinois Bureau of Tourism, 154, 168 Illinois Relay Center, 169 ImprovOlympic, 125–126 Independence Day Celebration, 155 Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore, 88 Insurance, 164 International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA), 163 International Style, 175 Internet access, 165 Interstate highways, 158 InTouch USA, 156 Ireland embassy and consulates, 161 passports, 166

J Jackson Park, 68 Jahn, Helmut, 28, 29 The James R. Thompson Center (State of Illinois Building), 28–29 Jay Pritzker Pavilion, 10, 11 Jazz Record Mart, 83 J Bar, 114 Jilly’s, 117 Jimmy’s Woodlawn Tap, 67 Joffrey Ballet of Chicago, 126 John G. Shedd Aquarium, 6, 21–22 John Hancock Center, 34, 175 John J. Glessner House, 171 Jonathan Adler, 82 Joseph Bond Chapel, 67–68 Joseph Regenstein Library, 67 Julius Meinl Café, 117

K Kate Spade, 78 Kathy Osterman Beach, 91 Kearney, John, 15 Kemil Beach, 89 Kennedy Expressway, 158 Kingston Mines, 116 Kitty O’Shea’s, 24, 114 Kraft Education Center, 40–41

L Lakefront, 91–94 Lake Michigan, 5, 91–94 Lake Shore Drive, 22 L’Appetito, 34 Late-Nite Catechism, 129

League of Chicago Theatres, 127 Limousine services, 165 Lincoln Park Conservatory, 16 Lincoln Park Zoo, 16 Live-music clubs, 118 Lookingglass Theatre Company, 129 The Loop, 9 architecture, 26–31 Lori’s Discount Designer Shoes, 78 Lost and found, 165 Lost-luggage insurance, 164–165 The Lurie Garden, 11 Luxor Baths, 58 Lyric Opera of Chicago, 127

M Macy’s, 9, 79–80 Madlener House, 47 Magnificent Mile, 5, 33–35 Maher, George W., 148–149 Mail and postage, 165 The Map Room, 114 Marie’s Rip Tide Lounge, 114 Mark Shale, 78 Marquette Building, 30 The Mary and Leigh Block Museum of Art (Evanston), 151–152 Material Possessions, 82 Mayor’s Office for People with Disabilities, 169 Mayor’s Office of Special Events, 154 McShane’s Exchange, 78 Medical insurance, 164 Medinah Temple, 35 The Merchandise Mart, 28 Metra commuter railroad, 159 Michigan, Lake, 5, 91–94 Michigan Avenue Bridge, 14 Michigan Avenue Cliff, 19 Middle Eastern Bakery, 63 Midway International Airport, 157 Midway Plaisance, 65 Mies van der Rohe, Ludwig, 175 Millennium Park, 6, 10–11 Miro, Joan, 9 Monadnock Block, 30 Monadnock Building, 172 Montrose Beach, 91 Moody Memorial Church, 51 Moore, Colleen, Fairy Castle, 43–44 Moore, Henry, 67 Mount Baldy, 89 Movies, 126–127

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181

N Natural History, Field Museum of, 23 Nature Museum, Peggy Notebaert, 17 Navy Pier, 36–37 Neighborhood walks Andersonville, 60–63 The Gold Coast, 46–49 Hyde Park, 65–68 Oak Park, 148 Old Town, 51–53 Neiman Marcus, 80 Nelson Algren House, 56 New Zealand customs regulations, 162 embassy and consulates, 161 passports, 166 Niche Footwear, 78 Nightlife, 107 bars, 113–116 best, 108 blues clubs, 116–117 cabaret and piano bars, 117–118 cafes, 118 live-music clubs, 118 900 North Michigan Avenue, 83 Nordstrom, 80 North Astor Street No. 1310, 49 No. 1449, 48 No. 1451, 48 No. 1525, 48 North Avenue Beach, 92 North Hoyne Avenue No. 1407, 56–57 No. 1521, 57 No. 1558, 57 North Loop Theater District, 30–31 North Michigan Avenue, No. 900, 83 North Shore Center for the Performing Arts, 125 Northwestern Memorial Hospital, 162, 163 North-Western Station, 159 Northwestern University (Evanston), 151 Northwest Tower Building, 58 Nuclear Energy (sculpture), 67 The Nutcracker, 155–156

O

Q

Oak Park, 5, 147–149 Oak Park Visitor Center, 147 Oak Street Beach, 92 Oceanarium, 6, 21, 22 O’Hare International Airport, 157 Ohio Street Beach, 93 Old Chicago Stock Exchange, Original Trading Floor of, 41 Old St. Patrick’s World’s Largest Block Party, 155 Old Town, 51–53 Old Town Ale House, 115 Old Town Art Fair, 84 Olive Park, 36 Olmsted, Frederick Law, 65, 68 Omnimax Theater, 44 Opera, 127 The Oriental Institute, 66 Outdoor activities, 85–94 Oz Park, 15–16

Queen Anne–style buildings, 35, 51, 149

P Pace Bus, 168 Palmer, Potter, 47 Palmolive Building, 33 Paper Boy, 77 Paper Source, 75 Parking, 165 Park West, 125 Passes, 165 Passports, 166 Patterson-McCormick Mansion, 48 Pearl Paint Art Supplies, 75 Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum, 17 Pharmacies, 166 Physician Referral Service, 162 Piano bars, 117–118 Piper’s Alley, 52–53 Playboy Mansion, 49 Pops for Champagne, 115 P.O.S.H., 82 Postage rates, 165 Postmodern architecture, 175–176 Prada, 78 Precipitation, average, 157 Primitive Art Works, 82 Printers Row Book Fair, 155 Pritzker School, 56 Psychobaby, 78 The Pumping Station, 34 The Pump Room, 117

R Rail travel, 158 Ravinia Festival, 125, 155 The Red Head Boutique, 78 Redhead Piano Bar, 117 Reliance Building, 10, 30, 172 Restaurants, 95–106, 162. See also Restaurant Index best, 96 tipping, 167 Revival Fisk Hall (Evanston), 151 Rhona Hoffman Gallery, 82 Richardson, Henry Hobson, 171 Richardson, H. H., 29 Richardsonian Romanesque, 171 Riley, 79 Robie House, 65 Rockefeller Memorial Chapel, 65–66 Rockit Bar & Grill, 115 Roman Catholic Archbishop of Chicago, Residence of the, 47 Rookery Building, 29 Root, John, Jr., 49 Root, John Wellborn, 49 Rosalie Villas, 68 Roscoe’s Tavern, 115 Runge, Hans D., House, 57

S Sabon, 76 Safety, 166 St. Mary of the Angels, 59 St. Michael’s Church, 52 St. Patrick’s Day Parade, 154 Saks Fifth Avenue, 80 Sales tax, 76 Sawbridge Studios, 82 Sculpture, 6 Sears Tower, 27, 175 Seasons, 154 The Second City, 5, 126 Second Renaissance Revival, 172–173 Shabby Chic, 82–83 Shakespeare Garden (Evanston), 151 Shaw, Howard Van Doren, 33, 48, 49 Shedd Aquarium, 6, 21–22 Sheffield’s, 115

I n d ex

Museum Campus, 94 Museum of Science and Industry, 6, 42–44, 68 Music Box Theatre, 127 Music stores, 83

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I n d ex

182 She One, 79 Shoes, 78 Shopping, 69–84 best, 70 hours, 76, 167 sales, 76 Signature Lounge, 115 The Silver Streak, 43 Simon’s Tavern, 62 Skyscrapers, 172 The Skyway, 158 Smart Bar, 118 Smith Museum of Stained Glass Windows, 37 Smoke Daddy Rhythm and Bar-B-Que, 117 Soldier Field, 130 Sound-Bar, 118 Special events and festivals, 154–156 Special Events Hot Line, 154 Spectator sports, 130, 167 State of Illinois Building (The James R. Thompson Center), 28–29 Steppenwolf Theatre Company, 129 Stevenson Expressway, 158 Sugar Magnolia, 79 Sullivan, Louis, 37, 41 Swedish-American Museum Center, 62–63 The Swedish Bakery, 61

T Take Flight exhibit, 43 Taste of Chicago, 155 Taxes, 167 Taxis, 157, 159 tipping, 168 Telephones, 167 Temperatures, average, 157 10pin, 116 Theater, 5–6, 127–130 North Loop Theater District, 30–31 Thorne Miniature Rooms, 40 Three Arts Club, 49 Ticketmaster, 167 Tickets, 167 Tipping, 167 Toilets, 168 Tommy Gun’s Garage, 129 Too Much Light Makes the Baby Go Blind, 129 Tourist offices, 168 Tourist traps and scams, 168 Tours, 168 Toys, 84 Train travel, 158 Transportation, 158–159

Travelex Insurance Services, 164 Travel Guard International, 164 Traveling to Chicago, 157–158 Travel Insured International, 164 Tree Studios, 35 Tribune Tower, 15, 172 Trip-cancellation insurance, 164 Twin Anchors Tavern, 52 Twisted Sister Bakery, 53

U U-505 (German submarine), 43 Ultimo, 79 Unabridged Bookstore, 77, 163 Uncle Fun, 84 Uncommon Ground, 117 Union Station, 158 United Center, 130 United Kingdom customs regulations, 162 embassy and consulates, 161 insurance, 164 passports, 166 Unity Temple (Oak Park), 148 University of Chicago, 66–67 Uptown Poetry Slam at The Green Mill, 129 U.S. Cellular Field, 130

V Vandenberg Ambulance, 163 Victory Gardens Theater at the Biograph, 130 Visitor information, 168 Visitor Pass, 159 Viva! Chicago Latin Music Festival, 155 Vosges Haut-Chocolat, 81

W Wacky Cats, 79 Walgreens, 166 Washington, Harold, Library Center (Chicago Public Library), 10 Water Tower Place, 83 WaterWays, 37 Weather, 156 Weather conditions and forecasts, 169 Websites, 156 Weinhardt, Hermann, House, 57

Wendella Sightseeing Boats, 168 West Beach, 89 West Burton Place, 53 West Caton Street, No. 2156, 58 Western Union, 165 West Eugenie Street, Nos. 315 and 319, 51–52 Westfield North Bridge Mall, 83 West North Avenue, No. 1934, 58–59 West Schiller Street No. 1951, 55–56 Nos. 1959-1961, 55 West Wacker Drive, No. 333, 28 Wheelchair accessibility, 168–169 Wicker Park, 55 The Wild Hare, 118 Willard House (Evanston), 152 William Wrigley Jr. Building, 35 Wines, 81 Wolford, 79 Women and Children First, 61–62 World Music Festival Chicago, 155 World’s Columbian Exposition (1893), 22, 35, 39, 43 Wright, Frank Lloyd, 29, 37, 48–49 Home and Studio (Oak Park), 147 Robie House, 65 Unity Temple (Oak Park), 148 Wright Plus Tour (Oak Park), 154 Wrigley Building, 174 Wrigley family, 35 Wrigley Field, 4, 17, 24, 130

Y Yellow Cab, 160

Z Zanies Comedy Nite Club, 126 Zebra Lounge, 117

Accommodations Ambassador East, 136 The Belden-Stratford Apartments, 136 Best Western Hawthorne Terrace, 136 Chicago Hilton Suites, 136

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183 Westin Michigan Avenue Hotel, 143 Whitehall Hotel, 144 Windy City Urban Inn, 144

R e s t a u ra n t s Ann Sather, 61 Athenian Room, 100 Atwood Café, 100 Avec, 100 Avenue Ale House (Oak Park), 149 Big Cats Café, 17 Billy Goat Tavern, 35 Bistro Campagne, 100 Bistro 110, 100 Blind Faith Café (Evanston), 152 Bockwinkel’s, 91 The Bongo Room, 100–101 Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. & Market, 93 The Café, 41 Café Atwood, 30 Cafe Iberico, 101 Caffé de Luca, 59 Chez Joël, 101 Everest, 101 Finnigan’s Ice Cream Parlor, 43 Frontera Grill & Topolobampo, 101 Geja’s Cafe, 101 Gibson’s Steakhouse, 102 The Goddess and Grocer/Cru Wine Bar and Cafe, 80–81 Green Zebra, 102 Harry Caray’s, 102 Heaven on Seven, 102 Hopleaf Bar, 63

Jane’s, 102 Joe’s Be-Bop Café & Jazz Emporium, 37 Kitty O’Shea’s, 24, 114 Kopi Café, 61 Lou Malnati’s, 103 Lou Mitchell’s, 103 L20, 102 Margie’s Candies, 103 Medici Restaurant, 66 Merlo, 103 Mike Ditka’s Restaurant, 103 Milk & Honey Café, 104 Mirai Sushi, 104 North Pond Café, 104 Oak Street Beachstro, 92 Orange, 104 Park Grill & Cafe, 11 Park Place Café, 16–17 Petersen’s Ice Cream Parlour & Sweet Shoppe (Oak Park), 148 Petterino’s, 31 The Phoenix, 104 Piccolo Sogno, 104 Potbelly Sandwich Works, 105 Puck’s, 15 Red Hen Bread, 105 RL, 105 Saloon Steakhouse, 105 Shanghai Terrace, 105 Shaw’s Crab House and Blue Crab Lounge, 105–106 SushiSamba Rio, 106 Svea, 61 Texas de Brazil, 106 Trattoria No. 10, 106 Twin Anchors Tavern, 106 Wishbone, 106

Photo Cre d i t s p viii: © Jon Arnold/AGE Fotostock; p 4, bottom: © Bridgeman Art Library; p 4, top: © TNT Magazine/Alamy; p 5, bottom: © Alan Weintraub/Alamy; p 6, bottom: © Ben Hays/Alamy; p 6, top: © Museum of Science & Industry; p 7: © Todd Bannor/Alamy; p 9, bottom: © Kevin Foy/Alamy; p 9, top: © Bruce Leighty/PhotoLibrary; p 10, bottom: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 10, top: © Courtesy Hotel Burnham; p 14, bottom: © PCL/Alamy; p 14, top: © Lloyd Sutton/Masterfile; p 15, bottom: © Joseph Sohm/ChromoSohm, Inc./Corbis; p 15, top: © Kim Karpeles/Alamy; p 16, bottom: © Kelly-Mooney Photography/Corbis; p 16, top: © Richard Cummins/Lonely Planet Images; p 17, bottom: © Ray Laskowitz/Lonely Planet Images; p 17, top: © Cindy Kurman/Green City Market; p 19, bottom: © Courtesy CAF ArchiCenter; p 19, top: © Courtesy City of Chicago [Office of Tourism]; p 20, top: © Michael Beasley/ Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 20, bottom: © Steve Craft/Masterfile; p 21, top: © KellyMooney Photography/Corbis; p 21, bottom: © Steve Vidler/eStock Photo; p 22, middle: © David R. Frazier Photo Library, Inc./Alamy; p 22, bottom: © Steve Vidler/eStock Photo; p 23, top: © Jerry Cooke/Corbis; p 25: © Walter Bibikow/AGE Fotostock; p 27, bottom: © Kevin Foy/Alamy; p 27, top: © Matthew X. Kiernan/Strata Art; p 28, bottom: © Bruce Leighty/

Photo Cre d i t s

Chicago Marriott Downtown, 136–137 City Suites Hotel, 137 Courtyard Magnificent Mile Downtown Chicago, 137 The Drake Hotel, 137 Embassy Suites Chicago Lakeshore, 137 Fairmont Hotel, 138 Four Seasons Hotel, 138 Hard Rock Hotel Chicago, 138 Hilton Chicago, 138 Hilton Garden Inn, 138–139 Homewood Suites, 139 Hotel Allegro, 139 Hotel Burnham, 139 Hotel Sax Chicago, 139 Hyatt Regency Chicago, 139–140 InterContinental Chicago, 140 The James Hotel, 140 Millennium Knickerbocker Hotel, 140 Park Hyatt Chicago, 140 The Peninsula Chicago, 140–141 Red Roof Inn, 141 Renaissance Chicago Hotel, 141 Ritz-Carlton Chicago, 141 The Silversmith Hotel & Suites, 141 Sofitel Chicago Water Tower, 141–142 Swissotel Chicago, 142 Talbott Hotel, 142 The Tremont, 142 Trump International Hotel and Tower Chicago, 143 W Chicago Lakeshore, 143 Westin Chicago River North, 143

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Photo Cre d i t s

184 PhotoLibrary; p 28, top: © Marcel Malherbe/Arcaid/Alamy; p 29, bottom: © Kelly-Mooney Photography/Corbis; p 29, top: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 30, top: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 31, bottom: © Donald C. Johnson/Corbis; p 33, middle: © Courtesy The Drake Hotel; p 33, bottom: © Richard Cummins/SuperStock; p 34, bottom: © Kim Karpeles/AGE Fotostock; p 34, top: © Walter Bibikow/AGE Fotostock; p 35, bottom: © AGE Fotostock/SuperStock ; p 37, bottom: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 37, top: © Todd Bannor/AGE Fotostock; p 39, middle: © Bridgeman Art Library; p 39, bottom: © American Gothic, 1930 by Grant Wood. All rights reserved by the Estate of Nan Wood Graham/VAGA/SuperStock, Inc./SuperStock; p 40, top: © The Art Institute of Chicago; p 40, bottom: © The Art Institute of Chicago; p 41, top: © Kevin O. Mooney/ Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 43, middle: © Scott Brownell/Museum of Science & Industry; p 44, middle: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 44, top: © Scott Brownell/ Museum of Science & Industry; p 45: © Kim Karpeles/Alamy; p 47, bottom: © Michael Beasley/ Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 47, middle: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 48, bottom: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 48, top: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 49, bottom: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 52, top: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 51, middle: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 52, bottom: © Courtesy Twin Anchors Tavern; p 53, top: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 53, bottom: © Courtesy Chicago History Museum; p 55, bottom: © Kim Karpeles/Alamy; p 55, middle: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 56, bottom: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 56, top: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 57, bottom: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 58, bottom: © Michael Beasley/ Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 58, top: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 59, top: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 59, bottom: © Courtesy Jolie Joli; p 61, bottom: © Courtesy the Swedish Bakery; p 62, bottom: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 63, top: © V1/Alamy; p 63, bottom: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 65, bottom: © Alan Weintraub/Alamy; p 66, top: © Courtesy Oriental Institute Museum; p 66, bottom: © Shubroto Chattopadhyay/PhotoLibrary; p 67, middle: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 67, top: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 68, bottom: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 69: © Courtesy Paper Source; p 70, bottom: © Courtesy Fox & Obel; p 75, bottom: © Courtesy Father Time Antiques; p 77, top: © Jamie Moriarty/Glove Me Tender; p 78, bottom: © Courtesy Psychobaby; p 79, top: © Courtesy Belly Dance Maternity; p 80, bottom: © Courtesy Marshall Field’s; p 82, bottom: © Courtesy P.O.S.H.; p 83, top: © Courtesy Sawbridge Studios; p 84, top: © Courtesy Uncle Fun; p 85: © Kim Karpeles/Alamy; p 88, middle: © Courtesy Indiana Dunes National Seashore; p 89, top: © Jeff Greenberg/eStock Photo; p 91, bottom: © Andre Jenny/Alamy; p 92, top: © Russel Gordon/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 92, bottom: © Scott Smith/PhotoLibrary; p 93, top: © Barry Durand/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 94, top: © Courtesy Adler Planetarium; p 95: © Joe Viesti/Viestiphoto.com; p 96, bottom: © Courtesy Lou Malnati’s; p 100, top: © Courtesy Kimpton Group; p 101, bottom: © Courtesy Topolobampo; p 102, top: © Sandy Felsenthal/Corbis; p 103, bottom: © Courtesy Gibson’s Steakhouse; p 104, bottom: © Courtesy RL Ralph Lauren; p 105, top: © Courtesy Shaw’s Crab House; p 106, top: © Courtesy Piccolo Sogno; p 107: © Russel Gordon/DanitaDelimont.com; p 108, top: © Mitchell Cerrone; p 113, bottom: © Courtesy Berghoff’s; p 114, top: © Fadó; p 115, bottom: © Courtesy Pops for Champagne; p 116, top: © 1993 John Carroll Doyle; p 117, bottom: © John Weakley/Redhead Piano Bar; p 118, bottom: © Nolan Wells/The Hideout; p 119: © Todd Rosenberg/Hubbard Street Dance Chicago; p 120, bottom: © Ken Howard/ BMP; p 125, top: © Courtesy Chicago Symphony Orchestra; p 126, bottom: © Courtesy The Second City; p 128, top: © Andrew Rothenberg/Emerald City Theatre; p 119, top: © Michael Brosilow/Lookingglass Theatre; p 120, top: © Raymond Hlilstrom/Lonely Planet Images; p 120, bottom: © San Rostro/AGE Fotostock; p 131: © Courtesy Loews Hotels; p 132, top: © Kim Karpeles/Alamy; p 136, bottom: © Courtesy Belden-Stratford Apartments; p 136, top: © Courtesy Ambassador East; p 137, bottom: © Courtesy The Drake Hotel; p 138, bottom: © Courtesy Four Seasons Hotel Chicago; p 138, top: © Courtesy Fairmont Chicago; p 139, bottom: © Courtesy Chicago-The Silversmith; p 139, top: © Jon Miller/Kimpton Group[/Hotel Burnham]; p 140, bottom: © Courtesy Peninsula Chicago; p 140, top: © Courtesy Hilton Chicago; p 141, bottom: © William Huber/Courtesy Trump International Hotel & Tower, Chicago; p 142, top: © Courtesy The Talbott Hotel; p 143, bottom: © Courtesy Westin Michigan Avenue Chicago; p 143, top: © Courtesy The Tremont; p 144, top: © Courtesy Windy City Urban Inn; p 145: © Richard Cummins/SuperStock; p 147 bottom: © Farrell Grehan/Corbis; p 147 middle: © Tom Given/Lonely Planet Images; p 148, bottom: © Alan Weintraub/Alamy; p 148, top: © Kevin O. Mooney/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 149, bottom: © Michael Beasley/Odyssey Productions, Chicago; p 149, top: © Courtesy Ernest Hemingway Foundation of Oak Park; p 151, bottom: © Gail Mooney/Masterfile; p 152, middle: © Courtesy Mary and Leigh Block Museum of Art; p 152, top: © Evanston Historical Society; p 152, bottom: © Courtesy Frances Willard House; p 153: © Kim Karpeles/Alamy

P.F.C. Milton Lee Olive III Park

Fold

W. Polk St.

ROOSEVELT/WABASH

M M

To Soldier Field

John G. Shedd Aquarium The Field Museum of Natural History

ROOSEVELT RD. STATION M

E. 11th St.

W. Roosevelt Rd.

SOUTH LOOP

110˚F 100˚F 90˚F

40˚C

30˚C

80˚F

Ave. Ave

70˚F

20˚C

50˚F

10˚F 0˚F

0˚C

-10˚C -18˚C

-10˚F -20˚F

-30˚C

To convert F to C: subtract 32 and multiply by 5/9 (.555) To convert C to F: multiply by 1.8 and add 32

S. Canal St. S. Clinton St.

32˚F = 0˚C

0.25 kilometer 0

1/4 mile

W. Taylor St.

S. Halsted St.

To convert..................... multiply by Inches to centimeters...................2.54 Centimeters to inches......................39 Feet to meters................................ .30 Meters to feet...............................3.28 Yards to meters.............................. .91 Meters to yards.............................1.09 Miles to kilometers.......................1.61 Kilometers to miles........................ .62 1 ft. = .30m 1 mile = 1.6km 1m = 3.3 ft. 1km = .62 mile

To convert..................... multiply by Ounces to grams........................ 28.35 Grams to ounces.......................... .035 Pounds to kilograms...................... .45 Kilograms to pounds................... 2.20 1 ounce = 28 grams 1 pound = .4555 kilogram 1 gram = .04 ounce 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds

94

90

S. Des Plaines St.

1 liter = .26 U.S. gallon 1 U.S. gallon = 3.8 liters

10˚C

20˚F

C h i c a g o R i ve r

U.S. gallons to liters....................... 3.8 Liters to U.S. gallons...................... .26 U.S. gallons to imperial gallons.... .83 Imperial gallons to U.S. gallons...1.20 Imperial gallons to liters..............4.55 Liters to imperial gallons................22

60˚F

32˚F

S. Jefferson St.

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT CHICAGO

HALSTED/U OF I

U. S. Customs House

CLINTON

Greyhound Terminal M

To convert..................... multiply by




40˚F

0

LASALLE

S. Wells St.

M

W. Van Buren St.

Eisenhower Expwy. 290

W. Harrison St.

S. Morgan St.

S. Wabash

S. LaSalle St. S. Sherman St.

Sears Tower

W. Jackson Blvd.

Union Station

W. Adams St.

S. Peoria St.

E. 9th St.

S. Federal St. S. Clark St.

Dearborn Station

E. 8th St.

M

HARRISON

S. State St. S. Plymouth Ct.

nch S . B ra

S. Green St.

HUTCHINSON FIELD

41

PARK

E. Balbo Dr.

Buckingham Fountain

E. Harrison St.

S. Michigan Ave.

M

W. Congress Pkwy.

M

LASALLE

Chicago Public Library

M LIBRARY

E. Congress Pkwy.

GRANT

The Seated Lincoln

ROSE GARDEN

Petrillo Bandshell M JACKSON

E. Jackson Dr.

BUTLER FIELD

Orchestra Hall

W. Adams St. M

QUINCY

MONROE M

W. Monroe St. W. Monroe St.

Columbus Dr.

S. Franklin St.

GREEKTOWN

Chicago Mercantile Exchange

W. Madison St.

W. Washington St.

N. Carpenter St.

W. Randolph St.

N. Halsted St.

N. Morgan St.

Art Institute of Chicago

E. Monroe Dr.

M MADISON

W. Madison St.

THE LOOP

WASHINGTON WASHINGTON

M M

Richard J. Daley Center & Picasso Sculpture

Macy’s 94

90

Bat Column Sculpture

e au ke N. M ilw

W. Grand Ave.

ADAMS M

RICHARD J. DALEY MILLENNIUM BICENTENNIAL PARK PLAZA

E. Randolph Dr.

Pritzer Pavilion

Chicago Cultural Center

M

Joffrey Tower RANDOLPH Tower

STATE M M

CLARK/LAKE

CLINTON M

e.

N. Jefferson St.

Av

r

nc ch St .

.

W. Fulton St.

e. Av

wy Exp

S. Dearborn St.

S. Wacker Dr.

N. Clinton St.

N. Des Plaines St.

W. Lake St.

Hic

k

ory

W. Kinzie St.

o

Ho

Br an

St.

W. Chicago Ave.

Kin

St.

r ke

N. Halsted St.

St.

N. Canal St.

W. Hubbard St.

N.

b gs

W. Lake St.

W. Wacker Dr.

W. Kinzie St.

Marina City Merchandise Mart

N. Wacker Dr.

edy nn Ke

Harbor

Monroe E. Wacker

R i ver Chicago

Trump Int’l Hotel & Tower Tower

Chicago Tribune Wrigley Building

W. Illinois St.

W. Ohio St.

W. Grand Ave.

W. Ontario St.

W. Erie St.

W. Hubbard St.

RIVER NORTH

GRAND M

St. James Cathedral

W. Huron St.

W. Superior St.

MERCH MART M

Chicago Place CHICAGO

Ave. Chicago M W.

CHICAGO

Peace Museum

Dr.

E. North Water St.

STREETERVILLE E. Illinois St.

E. Ohio St. E. Grand Ave.

E. Ontario St.

E. Erie St.

E. Huron St.

41

To Navy Pier


E. Chicago Ave. Lake Shore Park E. Superior St. Neiman Marcus

Mies van der Rohe Way E. Pearson St.

E. Chestnut St.

Lord & Taylor Old Water Tower M Salvation Army Headquarters

Newberry Library

Washington Square Locust St.

N. Franklin St.

Oak St. N

N. Dayton St.

h

N. Wells

St.

ry

C h i c a g o R i ve

N . B ra

ou

yb Cl

ro .C

No rth

M

E. Delaware Pl.

N. DeWitt Pl. St. Joseph Church

Seward Park

W. Blackhawk St.

W. Division St.

sby

Stanton Park

Av

ury

N. Sheffield Ave.

MOODY BIBLE INSTITUTE

Bellevue Pl.

E.Cedar St.

John Hancock Center

E. Oak St.

E. Walton Pl.

Oak Street Beach E. Elm St. M CLARK/DIVISION

W. Scott St.

SEDGWICK M

W. North Ave.

rn

N. LaSalle

St.

bu

gs

in .K

N. Clark St.

N

St.

N. Wabash Ave.

N. Dearborn St.

N. Larrabee St. e.

N.

Museum of Contemporary Art

ATE

AKW BRE

Lake Michigan W.Goethe St.

W. Schiller St.

OLD TOWN

Chicago History North Blvd. Museum

Lincoln Monument

NORTH/CLYBOURN

ss

lS el

Cleveland Ave.

N. Stetson Ave.

N. State

N. Sedgwick St.

N. Hudson Ave.

N. Halsted St.

64

W. Menomonee St.

W. Eugenie St.

t.

Bi

GOLD COAST

41

LINCOLN PARK

North Ave. Beach lle Dr .

Benjamin Franklin Statue

LaSa

W. Willow St.

N. Burling St.

N. Orleans St.

S. Lake Shore Dr.

Field Blvd.

bus D r. r.

Orchard St.

N. Franklin St.

Harbor Dr.

Colum

N.

N. Larrabee St.

N. LaSalle St.

N. Sedgwick St.

N. Hudson Ave.

N. Mohawk St.

Clark St.

BR

N. Park Ave.

N.

N. Wabash Ave.

ER

N. Dearborn St.

N. Wells St.

N.

Pkwy.

St. ush N. R N. State St.

N. Rush St.

AT

N. State

THE MAGNIFICENT MILE N. Michigan Ave.

W

la

N. C

N. Astor St.

N. St. Clair St.

EA K

t. rk S

N. Lake Shore Dr.

N.Fairbanks Ct.

spine 10mm

EASTERN BREAKWATER

R

Fold

Fold

WICKER PARK

7 W. Schiller 6 St.

2 3 4 5

94

W. Pierce Ave. Elk A Gro v e ve with . N. foldout W. Julian St. M ilw map au ke W. Beach Ave. eA ve .

41

Western

California

Kedzie

Pulaski

Cicero

Harrison Roosevelt/ Wabash

Roosevelt/ State

CermakChinatown Sox-35th

Ashland 35/Archer

35-Bronzeville -IIT Indiana 43rd 47th

47th

Kedzie Western Pulaski Midway

51st

Garfield

Garfield

63rd 95/Dan Ryan 87th

79th

69th

East 63rd Cottage Grove

WABASH AVE.

STATE ST.

CLARK ST.

DEARBORN ST.

LASALLE ST.

See inset for downtown stations

Clinton Clinton

Ashland Racine UIC-Halsted

Western

Medical Center Hoyne

KedzieHoman

Pulaski

Cicero

Austin

WELLS ST.

Paulina Southport

Pulaski

Central

Laramie

Austin

Ridgeland

Oak Park Oak Park

Harlem

Forest Park

Kedzie

Halsted

Polk

Halsted

N.

90

18th

Ashland/63

Midway

California

Central Park

17

U.S. Cellular Field 55

The Loop

Free train connections

54/Cermak

Wabansia Ave. 18

290

N. Marshfield Ave.

C H I C A G O

13 16 W. North Ave. 14 M 9 DAMEN 11 W. Pierce Ave. 10 8 1 start W. Le Moyne St.

WICKER W. Hirsch ch St. P A R K

N. Paulina St.

15

N. Hermitage Ave.

W.

Wrigley Field Map area

N. Wood St.

e.

W. St. Paul Ave.

N. Honore St.

Av

N. Wolcott Ave. e. e.

W. Willow St.

41

Harlem

Yellow Line

Wellington Diversey

Logan Square Fullerton California Armitage Sedgwick Western North/ Damen Clark/Division Clybourn Division Chicago Chicago Chicago Merch Mart Grand Cicero

Orange Line (Midway Airport)

y

Kildare

ed

Kimball Kedzie Francisco Rockwell Western Damen

Harlem

Cumberland

Rosemont

O’Hare

nn

Belmont

Belmont

King Dr.

UK £7.99

Addison

Brown Line

ISBN 978-0-470-42208-3

CAN $15.99

N. Winchester Ave Ave.

W. Churchill St.

94

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with foldout map

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17 Smart Ways to See the City

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Chicago day BY day

• The best of Chicago in one, two, or three days • Thematic tours for every interest, schedule, and taste • Walking tours of the city’s best-loved neighborhoods • Hundreds of evocative color photos • Bulleted maps that show you how to get from place to place • Hotels, restaurants, shopping, and nightlife for all budgets • A tear-resistant foldout map—enclosed in a handy plastic

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Downtown Stations

Chicago

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At last, a travel guide that tells you how to see the best of everything—in the smartest, most time-efficient way.

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Frommer’s 17 Self-guided Tours. 38 Maps. One Great Trip.

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