Flavourville: Lesley Chesterman's Guide to Dining Out in Montreal

FLAVOURVILLE

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FLAVOURVILLE LESLEY CHESTERMA N

Copyright © ECW PRESS , 2003 Published by EC W PRESS 2120 Quee n Street East, Suite 200, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M4E IEZ All rights reserved. No part of this publication ma y be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any process—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without the prior written permission o f the copyrigh t owner s and EC W PRESS. NATIONAL LIBRAR Y OF CANAD A CATALOGUIN G I N PUBLICATIO N DAT A

Chesterman, Lesley, 1967Flavourville/Lesley Chesterman. - 200 4 ed., updated and rev. Includes index . ISBN 1-55022-598-7 1. Restaurants—Quebec (Province)—Montreal—Guidebooks. I. Title. TX9O7.5.C22M6 2003 647.95714'2 8 02003-902205- 6 Copy editor: Jodi Lewchuk Design and typesetting: Guylaine Regimbald—Solo Design Production: Emm a McKay Printing: Transcontinental Cover illustration: Roger Blachon This book is set in Minion and Serlio The publication ofFlavourville 2004 has been generously supported b y the Canada Council, by the Government of Ontario through the Ontari o Media Development Corporation's Ontario Boo k Initiative, by the Ontario Arts Council, and by the Government of Canada through the Book Publishing Industry Development Program. CanadS Distribution: CANADA Jaguar Book Group, 100 Armstrong Avenue, Georgetown, Ontario L7G 554 UNITED STATE S

Independent Publishers Group , 814 North .Franklin Street, Chicago, Illinois 60610 Europe: Turnaround Publisher Services, Unit 3, Olympia Trading Estate, Coburg Road, Wood Green, London N22 6T2 AUSTRALIA AN D NEW ZEALAN D

Wakefield Press, i The Parade West (Box 2266), Kent Town, South Australia 5071 PRINTED AN D BOUND IN CANAD A

ECW PRESS ecwpress.com

To all the restaurateurs , chefs, sous-chefs, pastry chefs, commis , maitre d's, sommeliers, waiters and waitresses, busboys, and dishwashers, as well as the farmers , butchers, bakers, cheese makers, and othe r foo d supplier s wh o have made Montrea l one o f th e world's great restaurant cities.

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CONTENTS Acknowledgements 1 Foreword 1 How to Use This Book 1

3 5 9

TOP TABLES 40 Westt Steakhouse and Ra w Bar 2 Anise 2 Area 2 Auberge Hatley 3 Au Pied de Cochon 3 Au Tournant de la Riviere 3 Bice 4 Bistro a Champlain 4 Bleu Raisin 4 Brunoise 5 Buona Notte 5 Cafe Massawippi 5 Cavalli 5 Chao Phraya 6 Chez Delmo 6 Chez L'Epicier 6 Chez Noeser 7 Chez Queux 7 Clementine 7 Cube 8 Da Emma 8 Delfrno 8 Derriere les Fagots 9 Desjardins 9 Ferreira Caf^ Trattoria 9 Gibbys 9 Globe 10 Guy & Dodo Morali 10 Holder 10 II Campari Centr e 11

3 6 9 2 5 8 1 4 8 1 4 7 9 2 5 9 2 5 8 1 4 7 0 3 6 9 2 5 8 1

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IlCortile 11 IlMulino 11 Katsura 12 La Bastide 12 La Biche au Bois 12 La Cantina 13 La Chronique 13 La Colombe 13 La Gaudriole 13 Laloux 14 La Rapiere 14 L'Armoricain 14 L'Autre Saison 15 LaVielleHistoire 15 L'Eau a la Bouche 15 Le Beam 16 Le Caveau 16 Le Chrysantheme 16 Le Club des Pins 16 Le Gourmand 17 Le Grand Cafe 17 Le Latini 17 Le Lutetia 18 Le Margaux 18 Le Mas des Oliviers 18 Le Mitoyen 18 Le Muscadin 19 Le Paris 19 Le Passe-Partout 19 Le Piemontais 20 Le Puy du Fou 20 Le St. Augustin 20 Les Caprices de Nicolas 20

4 7 0 4 7 0 3 6 9 2 5 8 1 4 6 0 2 6 9 2 4 7 0 3 5 9 2 4 7 0 3 6 9

Les Chanterelles de Richelieu 21 Les Chenets 21 Les Chevres 21 Les Deux Charentes 22 Les Halles 22

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CONTENTS 9

Les Infideles 22 Les Remparts 23 Les Sarcelles 23 Les Trois Tilleuls 23 Le Surcouf 23 Le Taj 24 L'Express 24 Lezvos West 24 L'Habitant 25 L'Orchidee de Chine 25 Maestro S.V.P. 25 Med Grill 25 Mikado 26 Mikado Monkland 26 Milos 26 Moishe's Steak House 27

8 0 4 6 9 1 4 7 0 2 6 9 1 4 7 0

Nuances 27 Philippe de Lyon 27 Piccola Italia 27 Primadonna 28 Quelli Delia Notte 28 Queue de Cheval 28 Red Thai 29 Restaurant Bonaparte 29 Restaurant Christophe 29 Restaurant Le McHaffy 30 Restaurant Le St. Christophe 30 Restaurant Yoyo 30 Rib 'n Reef 30 Ristorante Bis 31 Ristorante Da Vinci 31 Ristorante Fran k 31 Ristorante Lucc a 32 Ristorante Prim o e t Secondo 32 Ristorante Sapori Pronto 32 Rosalie 32 Rugantino 33 Savannah 33

3 6 9 1 4 7 0 3 6 0 2 5 8 1 3 7 0 2 5 8 1 4

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Sho-Dan 33

7

Sotto Sopra 34

0

Thai Grill 34

3

Tokyo Sukiyaki 34

6

Toque! 35

0

Treehouse 35

4

Troika 35

7

Vegera 36

1

Verses 36

4

Zen 36

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CASUAL DINING Alep 37

2

Au Bistro Gourmet 37

3

Au Petit Extra 37

4

Beauty's 37

5

Bistro on the Avenue 37 Cafe International 37

6 7

Cafe Melies 37 Chez Clo 37

8 9

Chine Toque 38 FondueMentale 38

0 1

Gandhi 38

2

Isakaya 38

3

La Paryse 38

4

La Raclette 38 La Spaghettata 38

5 6

Le Bistingo 38

7

Le Continental 38

8

Le Grain de Sel 38

9

Le Jardin de Panos 39

0

Le Maistre 39

1

Le Paris Beurre 39

2

Le Pegase 39

3

Le Poisson Roug e 39

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Le P'tit Plateau 39

5

Les Deux Chefs 39

6

CONTENTS 1

1

Le Vintage 39 Monkland Tavern 39 Pizzeria Napolitana 39 Roberto 40 Rude Nam 40

7 8 9 0 1

Schwartz's 40 Scola Pasta 40 Sofia 40 Souvenirs d'Indochine 40

2 3 4 5

Soy 40 Stash Cafe 40 Vents du Sud 40

6 7 8

Food Index 40

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Geographical Index 41

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Thanks to the team at ECW Press, especially my publisher, Robert Lecker, an d editor , Jod i Lewchuk, a s well as my editors a t th e Montreal Gazette, David Walker and Michael Shenker. Thanks also to Julian Armstrong for her encouragement and kind words; Anthony Chesterman fo r hi s harsh bu t lovin g criticism; Sylvia Chesterman an d Melinda Varga for their scintillating din nertime company; and Paul Globus for correcting my grammar and providing the "mot juste " when the "mot juste " escaped me. Special thanks to Bertrand and Max Bazin, the men in my life, for holding down the fort while I was out feasting on foie gras. I owe a big debt of gratitude as well to all my readers at the Montreal Gazette and those lovers of fine dinin g who made the firs t Flavourville such a success.

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FOREWORD With ove r 5,00 0 establishments rangin g fro m forma l Frenc h t o the laid-back , inexpensive, bring-your-own-wine variety, Montreal's restaurant scen e is booming. Yet our reputatio n a s one of North America's gourmet capital s hardl y capture s th e dept h o f the culinar y scene. This i s the cit y know n th e worl d ove r fo r smoked meat, bagels, and poutine. But that's only the beginning. Montreal als o boasts a wide variety of locally produced luxur y foodstuffs, suc h as raw-milk cheeses, foie gras, duck, venison, iced cider, and mapl e syrup. It's th e developmen t o f these products , coupled wit h thei r exploitatio n b y innovative loca l chef s tha t makes our s suc h a n importan t an d uniqu e Nort h America n restaurant city . Although restaurants are not restricted to any one area of the island city, there are neighbourhood cluster s where Montrealers tend to gravitate: Little Italy for its trattorias an d open-ai r mar kets, Rue St. Denis for its sophisticated bistros and sidewalk cafes, and Boulevar d St. Laurent—also know n a s the Main—fo r it s dozens of trendy hot spots . Two of the mos t active scenes are to be found on the Plateau Mont Royal and the Gay Village, where a new breed o f bistr o an d boutiqu e restauran t i s catering t o a young and fashionabl e crowd. Outremont stil l lays claim to th e richest scen e outside o f the cit y centre, and Ol d Montrea l ha s emerged fro m th e shadow s t o tak e a well-deserved place in th e spotlight. Faced with the task of reviewing the city' s restaurants, I have approached it as a chance to provide a service for the reader. I want to let you know what's going on out there, and which restaurants are worth adding to your list of favourites. Unlike something alway s available in its original state ( a film or a book), a restaurant i s an ever-evolvin g enterprise . Tal k to restaurateurs and they'll tell you about their new sous-chef, their lunch specials, the latest additions to their wine lists, or even the restaurants they recently dined at in New York.

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One could argue that a restaurant review is dated the minute it's published . Perhaps . My goal, however, is to offe r yo u a brief encounter with each establishment, one that affects all the senses: the look of the decor at Les Chevres, a plate presentation at Toque1!, the energy of a room like L'Express, the smell of mussels marinara at Le Latini, the tast e of a vanilla-pineapple parfait a t Le Lute'tia, or the mouth feel of the crusty pain rustique at Le Passe-Partout. This guide offer s a compilation o f restaurants rated goo d to extraordinary at the time they were visited. It's more about quality than quantity. The establishments included here are the ones I believe are worth recommending. There are any number of reasons why a restaurant is not include d in this book: out o f business, too new to make the publication deadline, still finding its way on the city scene, or going through a renovation or transition. In the category of casuaJ restaurants, only thirty-seven are included. Thi s i s not intende d a s a comprehensiv e listing by any means. Rather, it's an overview of some of the places I enjoy when I want to spend less. Montreal is a city bursting with bright culinary ideas, fascinating chefs, and divers e tastes— a true cit y of flavours (henc e the name of this guide). I invite you to peruse these pages when contemplating a night of celebration or indulgence, a change of pace, or simply a meal away from your own kitchen. A restaurant outing should alway s be special, a night to remember, and in Montreal you'll seldom find yourself without option s or at the poin t where you've tried everything that's out there. For this , the secon d edition o f Flavourville, you'll fin d tw o strong trends emerging on the Montreal scene: the appearance of the show y restaurant, best typified b y establishments suc h as 40 Westt an d Cavalli , and th e increasin g numbe r o f chef-owned restaurants, such as Les Chevres, Brunoise, and Restaurant Christophe, located i n less fashionable neighbourhoods. An d in tha t interesting worl d betwee n thos e tw o genre s come restaurant s such as Outremont's exquisite Anise, downtown's bustling bistro Rosalie, and the Plateau's sophisticated Savannah.

FOREWORD 1

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Now is the best of times, a belle epoque, to discover Montreal restaurants. After readin g through these pages, I hope you'll experience— as I did—all the passion and hard work our city's producers, chefs, pastry chefs, kitche n staffs, an d wait staffs dedicate to their profession. Happy restaurant hopping. And, as we say in Montreal, Bon appetit!

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HOW T O US E THIS BOO K RATING SYSTEMS

Note that all restaurants featured here were visited by the autho r anonymously. All food, wine, an d service s were paid fo r i n full . Any interviews wit h restauran t managemen t o r staf f wer e con ducted afte r th e meals and service s had been appraised. Rating s take food, ambience, service, and price into consideration. Men u items and prices are subject to change.

The star ratings: Good Good, verging on excellen t Excellent Excellent, verging on extraordinar y Extraordinary (one of the best)

The price ratings: Inexpensive, most main course s priced under $10 Moderate, $10-$20 Expensive, $20-$35 Very expensive, $35+

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REVIEW COMPONENTS

IN TH E KITCHEN • Indicates who' s runnin g th e sho w behind the scenes. If there is no head chef, none is mentioned. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Montreal has become an increasingly casual dining-out city. If fancy dress is called for, it will be mentioned here. Keep in mind, however, that though jackets are rarely required, jeans, sweatpants, baseball caps, shorts, and running shoes are to be avoided in the majority of the city's restau rants. WINE LIS T • Ageneral ide a o f selection and pric e is provided here. DON'T MISS • The dishes listed include favourite s tasted a t th e time of the author's visit. Of course, menu item s may vary, but these dishes will give you a sense of the kitchen's strengths (i f the duck magre t with wild mushrooms wa s good last year, chances are the duck with red berries will be a winner this year). WORDS TO THE WISE • Look here for insider tip s and genera l reflections on the restaurant's strength s and weaknesses. CARDS • "Major cards" means that at least Visa and MasterCar d are accepted .

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TOP TABLES

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STEAK/SEAFOOD

4O WEST T STEAKHOUSE AND RA W BAR SNAPSHOT • Luxury may be a fading genre on Montreal's finedining scene, but at 40 Westt it's taken to the hilt. Over 400 diners can b e accommodate d i n th e variou s dinin g rooms , privat e rooms, and bar. The menu revels in the modern steak house formula, offerin g plent y o f fres h seafoo d an d fish , standby s lik e shrimp cocktai l an d Caesa r salad, a large choice o f sid e dishes, and a focused selection of 10- to 14-day-ol d USDA Choice Black Angus Colorado beef , with cuts ranging in size from a n 8-ounce filet mignon to a 30-ounce porterhouse for two. Despite its location in a strip mall off the T-Can, ostentation is the name of the game at 40 Westt. Even the mos t jaded diner is sure to exi t this glitzy restaurant a little star-struck. THE BI G PICTURE » Remember J . R . Ewing , the oi l man / rancher/villain immortalized in the deeply decadent eighties television drama Dallas? With his 2-foot-wide cowboy hat, snakeskin boots, loaded wallet, and Sue Ellen, his trophy wife who tended to drown her sorrows in Martinis, J. R. was larger than life . J. R. is not th e kind of fellow you would expect to see nibbling grilled vegetables at on e o f those bring-your-own-win e Platea u eateries. A carnivore to the core, this character belongs in a steak house. And not just any steak house, but a brash steak house with choice sirloin , bold re d wines , comely waitresses, and ceiling s high enough to accommodate that Stetson. The Ewing clan would feel right at home at 40 Westt. Appetizers includ e a handful o f origina l dishe s suc h a s a grilled-shrimp cocktai l serve d alongside sautee d spinac h en hanced with roaste d garli c and a ramekin o f garlic mayonnaise (a'ioli). The thre e large prawns are pudgy , meaty, and resilient .

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Every bite's a treat, especially when enlivened with the tangy mayonnaise. The spinach is also a winner, though the portion siz e is far to o generous to balance the amount of shrimp. Another excellen t choic e i s the bee f tartare . Made o f finel y minced file t migno n mixe d wit h chive s an d a healthy dos e of Tabasco, this raw meat "cake" served on a bed o f thin fries offer s melting bites, sparks of spice, and an overriding richness. The Caesa r salad certainly fits the setting . Describe d o n th e menu as "our famous" and served tableside fro m a wooden bowl, it consists of large romaine leaves, five oversized croutons, an d a sprinkling o f Parmesan. Thoug h th e unmanageabl e leaf siz e is easily remedied wit h knif e an d fork , th e block-siz e croutons — too bi g fo r a mouthful, too fir m fo r cutting—see m mor e lik e decoration. An d though cream y and wel l portioned, th e vinai grette lacks an acidic element to counter the cheese and oil in the dressing. Main courses include grilled black sea bass, a rack of Rimouski lamb, and a "Cowboy Cut" 20-ounce rib steak. The sea bass, sold by the pound, arrives on a long thin plate with a side of wild rice pilaf. The 2-poun d portio n o f fish is superb: delicate , sweetly flavoured, an d mois t bu t firm . Unfortunately , it' s als o poorl y boned an d th e accompanyin g ric e is greasy—two seriou s fau x pas considering the whopping $53 price. Far better is the lamb, a generous rack served with a dollop of mashed potatoes, golf ball-size roasted shallots , an d an intens e port sauce. The meat is beautiful, full-flavoured, and medium-rare. The steaks, by contrast, can be a hit-or-miss affair. On a recent visit m y rib stea k was tender, cooke d t o th e requeste d charre d rare, and generous in size without being too fatty. What it lacked, however, was that meaty/minera l flavou r stea k lover s relish i n aged beef. Despite my attempts t o enliven the taste with salt, the flavour still came up short. This maybe a matter of one dull steak or a lack of fine-tuning in the aging process. Dessert arrives at the table on a trolley along with a fine selection o f desser t wine s an d ports . If you fanc y somethin g sweet, consider sharing, as potions are colossal. Notable is the authentic New York-style strawberr y cheesecake, the appl e crumble, an d the rich hot chocolate tourte served with ice cream.

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Service is another of this restaurant's strengths. The charming and confident wait staff wiE eagerly guide you through the menu and help you select a wine. Waits between courses are reasonable, and wine and water glasses are filled without fail . IN TH E KITCHE N • Chef s Stephan o Hinoporo s an d Terr y Morentzos. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • There are three dining rooms on the left-han d side of the entrance , and a raw bar crowde d wit h beautiful peopl e to the right. Potted palm s frame dark-panelle d archways laden with wine bottles. The ceilings are at least 1 5 feet high, and the walls are either brick, stone, or painted a rich colour of cream. Thick-slated black wooden shutters are hung above the black leathe r banquettes, whic h ar e topped with win e bottles , mostly magnums. Everything on th e tabl e i s emblazoned wit h the restaurant' s logo, the wine glasses are bulbous and heavy , and th e linens are bright white and thick. The overall sense is that of a large American hotel restaurant or an extravagant cruise ship, like the Titanic. WINE LIST • 40 Westt's wine lis t i s a pleasure to peruse . With over 10 0 well-chosen wine s unde r $5 0 and a good selectio n o f wines by the glass , it's by far one of the mos t customer-friendly lists you're likely to encounter. Splurgers and oenophiles are sure to appreciate the second wine list, which offers mor e prestigious and mature selections. DON'T MISS • The steak tartare, the grilled-shrimp cocktail , the lamb, and the cheesecake. WORDS TO THE WISE • Weaknesses with th e foo d aside , it's nice to see a restaurant this swanky taking a chance in the sub urbs. Be warned: Market prices for fresh fish and seafood can skyrocket. Also, if you can't garner a reservation on your first try, it's worth a second attempt close r to mealtime.

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40 WESTT STEAKHOUSE AND RAW BAR Mega-centre, 230 5 Transcanada (exit 53, Boulevard des Sources) Location: Pointe Claire Telephone: (514) 428-9378 Web site: www.40westt.com Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.- 10:30 P.M., Monday to Wednesday, and 5:30 P.M.11:30 P.M., Thursday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $10-$20 (seafood priced by the pound); main courses, $24-$38 (fresh fish priced by the pound); desserts, $8-$15

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FRENCH

ANISE SNAPSHOT • Dinner at Anise is a thing of beauty. This impossi bly chic, 50-seat restaurant is one of Avenue Laurier's gems. Chef and co-owner Racha Bassoul is a self-taught cook who claims her style of cuisine du marche is influenced by her many travels. Her dishes featur e pomegranates , pistachios , dates , tomatillos , an d tamarind, and spices like cumin, turmeric, and saffron—sensua l ingredients all too rare on Montreal's fine-dining scene. Not only is this relatively young enterprise better than ever, but it is now on a par with Montreal's best. THE BIG PICTURE • Reading through Anise's menu, one senses a wonderful melange of French and Middle Eastern flavours. Chef and partne r Rach a Bassoul' s palette o f ingredients reflect s he r Lebanese roots. This is fusion a t its finest: modern, pared-down , and well balanced. To best sampl e a wide variety of dishes, consider orderin g a tasting menu paired with wines by the glass. Bassoul's cuisine is

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one of small portions and intense flavours, which fits this format perfectly. On a recent visit, the meal starts with a wonderful sou p du o served with toasted pita triangles. The first bowl contains a carrot potage enhance d wit h mandari n oil , cumin, and turmeric . Th e other is made with peas and pistachios, its flavour enhancers being mint and parsley oil. The soups have the ideal spoon-coating tex ture, and the tastes are pure and harmonious . Next up, two vegetarian dishes: a three-layer tower of ratatouille stacked between socc a tuiles, and a crisp nugget o f Feta-stuffe d falafel serve d with mesclu n an d tahin i sauce . The ratatouill e i s a delicate rendition o f this Provencal classic, and the socca tuiles are a n inspired—an d authentic—partner . This dis h an d th e falafel ar e miles apart. The falafe l i s earthy, with its heavy texture brought to life by the salty cheese and nutty tahini. The complexit y o f flavou r increase s with ever y course. A telling exampl e i s the grille d octopu s serve d wit h caramelize d cipollini onions , drie d yello w tomatoes, gree n olives , and a red lentil puree spiced with cumin. The octopus is charred and chewy on the outside, and tender within. The accompaniments add the requisite brightness, richness, and acidity. Other examples include the kebbeh nayeh (lamb tartare) and the surf and turf Anise. The tartare is a classic in Middle Eastern cuisine. Shaped into a quenelle and mixed with cracked wheat and fresh mint, it's a triumph of flavour and texture. The surf and turf consists of a small stack of scallops and foi e gras set atop a bed of black rice. There's a lot going on here but i t works, with the foie gras taking the lead and the other ingredients falling into line. And just when you think it tastes like any old luxury dish, out comes the accompanying coconut and curry sauce to supply a few sparks. Throughout th e meal , you're sur e to be awed by the elegan t plate presentations—not to mention the plates themselves. Course after cours e arrives on colourfu l glas s plates or custom-designe d crockery, the most charming being a bowl meant fo r the tiniest scoop of lavender sorbet. The matte, stone-coloured plat e used for the chees e course is also impressive , a s is its contents : a portion o f local cheese— a

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Chaput goat' s chees e or a slic e o f Mignero n d e Charlevoix — served with mesclun and a phyllo date-and-nut turnover. Desserts includ e tw o warm , cigarette-shaped nem s stuffe d with chocolate, mint, honey, and pistachio. Serve d alongside is a quenelle of lavender ice cream, which rounds off the meal on the right aromatic (yet not too sweet) note. Mignardises include nougat squares sandwiched with dried apricots , and crumbl y sugarcoated butter cookies . Service is friendly and flawless . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and co-owner Racha Bassoul. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The decor, conceived over three floors b y designer Jean-Pierr e Viau, remains a study in muted grandeur. The high banquettes an d padded chairs are covered in crinkly raspberry chenille. There's a grand staircas e to th e left , and towering walls the colour o f buttermilk ar e embedded with wavy sconces that pop up here and there like upturned cups on a bustier. WINE LIST • Anise's wine list is a treasure trove of interesting bottles, with many fine choices under $50. Wine recommendations are solid, and there's an excellent choice of half bottles and wines by the glass. DON'T MISS • The falafel, the octopus, the lamb tartare, the scallops with foi e gras , the chees e course, and th e nem s filled with chocolate, mint, honey, and pistachio. WORDS TO THE WISE • Chef Bassoul and partne r Remy Jahel have taken this establishment into a realm of elegance largely absent in most Montreal restaiurants. From the choice of ingredients and the intensity of flavours to the artistry of the menu and the striking flower arrangements, everything here is in good taste. All this comes at a price, of course, so be prepared to spend, spend, and spend. And remember that this is a nonsmoking restaurant.

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ANISE 104 Avenue Laurier West (near St. Urbain) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 276-6999 Web site: www.anise.ca Open: 6 P.M.- 10 P.M., Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended; nonsmoking environment Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $9-$19; main courses, $22-$45; desserts, $10

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CONTEMPORARY

AREA SNAPSHOT • Area i s a small, 38-sea t establishmen t locate d i n the heart of Montreal's increasingly fashionable Gay Village. Chef Ian Perreault and partner Denis Levesque have garnered nothing but raves for their restaurant's stylish decor and innovative cuisine, proving yet again that chef-owned restaurants offer th e most confident cuisin e an d persona l dinin g experiences . I n thi s youn g chef's hands , cabbag e salads taste elegant , pork chop s ar e mor e toothsome than veal chops, and desserts feel like a necessity rather than a n indulgence. Prices have increased steadil y over the pas t few years , but considerin g th e qualit y o f ingredients, the hik e is justified. THE BIG PICTURE * Is a chef an artist or merely a skilled manual worker? One could argu e that burger flipping requires a certain leve l o f skill. Bu t there ar e mile s betwee n th e short-orde r cook and the experienced chef. Even among the ranks of the pros, there's a wide range of expertise. Compare culinary professionals to musicians. The differences between a commis, a sous-chef, and

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a chef de cuisine are comparable to those between a section player in the Montreal Symphony Orchestra, the concert master, and the conductor. A successful che f develops a signature style, leading us to see food in a new light, be it through interesting flavour combinations, original plate presentations, or a fresh take on the classics. Case in point is chef Ian Perreault of Area. Area's menu is eclectic. Although many dishes could be placed in that most risk y of culinary categories, fusion , it turns ou t th e exotic touches in chef Perreault's cuisine are subtle. Two of the cold starters—crunchy Savoy cabbage with arugula, apples, an d smoke d duck , an d fres h artichok e wit h marinate d calamari and toaste d hazelnuts—ar e made wit h original , wellmatched ingredients . A hot an d col d sala d consistin g o f confi t of quai l with baby potatoes dresse d with garlic , olive oil, sel de Guerande, and whit e balsamic vinega r reduction is , however, a miss. The medley sounds promising, but the dish is dominated by mealy, white-fleshed potatoes . The deep-frie d sweetbread s coated i n a gingerbread-crum b crust ar e good fun. Served with a hot quinc e dipping jelly, every morsel is crisp, melting, spicy, and fruity—the most exciting nuggets around. Curried tempura tiger prawns served in a gold-napkinlined bamboo steamer basket along with a ramekin of cool peppermango salsa are the ideal choice for those who enjoy their food on the spicy side. Also irresistible is a velvety butternut squash soup, tinged with nutmeg and served with sauteed snails and a dribble of sesame oil. Like s o many young chefs , Perreaul t appear s to b e a garde manger specialist who excels in the realm of smaller portions. Proof is the mai n courses , where he occasionall y stumbles . Th e panseared rib steak paired with a cupful of sweet balsamic sauce, baby bok choy , and asparagu s is tough an d ha s little flavour . A crispskinned chicken leg stuffed wit h pistachio paste is quite nice, but it's served with a dollop of faerbed mashed potatoes large enough to feed a family of four. Also tryin g too hard is a stew of Ricottafilled ravioli, shredded confi t o f duck , mushrooms, asparagus , truffle oil, and Parmesan. Not only is there way too much going on here, but also all the elements are soaked in a thick, rich meat sauce.

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More reasonabl y sized an d wit h flavour s mor e vibran t i s a smoked and grilled pork chop serve d with herbed mashed pota toes studded with bacon and diced, saut£ed celery root. Also outstanding i s the grille d salmo n filet , whic h i s fresh, moist , an d enhanced with a candied ginger cream sauce sprinkled with black sesame seeds. Desserts ar e another o f Area's fortes. Both the berry clafouti s and the oven-baked pineapple seasone d with cinnamon an d coffee bean s are served with luscious homemade vanill a ic e cream. The lemon meringu e tar t i s a revelation. Assembled to order, i t offers a delicate tart shell , a potent lemo n curd , an d a cloud of Italian meringue. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and co-owner Ian Perreault. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The scene is subdued and sophisticated, with groov y tunes and chattering bilingual patron s pro viding a pleasant hum in the background. The brick walls are lined with slim horizontal mirrors. Other smart features include gauzy white drapes , fresh flowe r arrangements , an d a large, goldfish filled aquarium. It's all quite Zen, chic, and fabulous. WINE LIST • The wine list is short, with nicely varied and wellpriced bottles , including Chablis , Haute s C6tes-de-Beaune , an d Valpolicella priced at under $40. DON'T MISS • The tempura shrimp , th e frie d sweetbreads , the grilled por k chop , an d th e desserts—especially , when available , the lemon meringue tart. WORDS TO THE WISE • Three years is an eternity in the life of a young chef, and Perrault' s styl e has evolved since he opened th e restaurant a t age 25. Prices have increased an d ar e accompanie d by a greater emphasis on luxury ingredients and intricate flavour combinations. Some of Perrault's dishes of late seem to favour in novation ove r satisfaction , so unles s you'r e u p fo r som e od d flavour combinations, stic k to the simplest dishes.

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AREA 1429 Rue Amherst (near Ste. Catherine) Location: East of city centre, in the Gay Village Telephone: (514 ) 890-669 1 Web site: www.rest-area.qc.ca Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-1:30 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.- 10:45 P.M., Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access : Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $9-$19; main courses, $22-$36; desserts, $8

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AUBERGE HATLE Y SNAPSHOT • Window boxes cascading with flowers and a breathtaking view of Lak e Massawippi awai t diners a t thi s acclaime d Relais & Chateau country inn located in North Hatley, a one-anda-half-hour drive from downtown Montreal. The modern French cuisine of chef Alain Labrie features many fresh herbs and greens, which are grown in the on-site greenhouses. Wine is taken seriously at Auberge Hatley. Service, though formal, could not be more hospitable. Though meal prices tend to run high, few restaurants offer a gourmet experience of this calibre. THE BIG PICTURE • There ar e good restaurant s an d ther e are great restaurants. Yo u can fin d grea t food in a good restaurant, but greatness is about more than just what's on the plate. The operation mus t rat e top marks on all counts: a beautiful setting, a warm ambience , super b service, impeccable tableware, a n out standing cellar, and inventive, seasonal cuisine that makes use of the best local ingredients. Auberge Hatley is that kind of place. How could on e ever go back to casua l dining after watchin g tuxedoed waiters move quietly around th e well-spaced tables in

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the auberge' s elegan t dinin g room ? Crust y roll s fro m a basket containing locally baked bread grace every table. Minutes after ar riving, diners are treated to an amuse-bouche made of eggplant, zucchini slices, and grilled goat's cheese. This simple palate teaser, dressed with a pungent basil oil, starts the meal off o n the highest of notes. Cold starters include a simple goat's cheese salad with tomato confit an d wintercress, and a duck and foie gras ballotin with a sweet an d spic y balsamic vinaigrette. Bot h ar e accompanied b y lovely greenhouse lettuces, including baby watercress, poiree, and arugula grow n in the auberge' s nearby commercial greenhouse , Domaine de la Cressonniere. The second course offers scallops with grapefruit beurre blanc, and a salmon tartare with Oscietra caviar and sour cream. The fiv e seared scallops, topped with a sprinkling of oven-dried orange zest, are arranged in a circle around a mound o f sauteed julienne of leek. The tangy grapefruit butte r sauc e is the perfec t foi l fo r th e tender, sweet scallops. Another excellen t starter i s a mushroom pithivier s with Madeira sauce. Although the puff pastry is heavier than expected, the torte is packed with a variety of delicious wild mushroom s an d served on a large pool of Madeira sauce. Main courses arrive covered with silve r domes, which are removed with panache, revealing beautifully presented plates . Two worth sampling are tournedos o f duck magret with foie gras and orange sauce, and grilled beef tenderloin with wild mushroom jus. Topped with a piece of caramelized foie gras* the tender slices of duck are served with al dente green beans and sautee d mushrooms and potatoes. The beef filet's accompaniments include fresh peas, mushrooms, an d sof t round s o f beef marrow. The mush room sauce , carefull y spoone d aroun d th e meat a t th e table , is light and full flavoured . As dinner reaches the three-hour mark , the waiter arrives with a selection of over a dozen local and imported raw-milk cheeses, including a 10-year-old Lac St. Jean Cheddar, a Pouligny St. Pierre goat's cheese, a Brie de Meaux, and a Reblochon. Desserts at Auberge Hatley are as elegant as the surroundings . A citru s plat e comprise d o f lime sherbet , lemon mousse , an d

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lemon bal m crem e anglaise is light an d refreshing—th e perfec t end to a wonderful meal . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Alain Labrie. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • This restaurant's formalit y belies its hospitable feel . The pale yellow room is simple and elegantl y decorated. Throug h tal l windows there' s a breathtaking view of Lake Massawippi as well as elaborate gardens and th e surrounding hills. Jackets are required at dinner. WINE LIST • The win e list consist s o f page after pag e of fairl y priced, predominantly French wines. Unless you're an expert, leave the choosing to one of the sommeliers, who will not only arrive at your table with ful l knowledge of your order, but also might surprise you by recommending a less expensive bottle than you had planned on. DON'T MISS • The salads, the seared scallops, the duck foie gras, the bee f tenderloi n with wild mushroom jus, and th e chees e course. WORDS TO THE WISE • A meal at Auberge Hatley is to die for. It's also to pay for. The total cost for two can top $300. Is it worth it? Absolutely—not only for the food, but also for the experience . AUBERGE HATLE Y

325 Chemin Virgin Location: North Hatley Telephone: 1-800-336-2451, or (819) 842-2451 Web site: www.aubergehatley.com Open: Lunch (May to September), noon-2 P.M., daily; dinner, 6 P.M.-9 P.M., Monday to Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Three set menus, $58, $75, and $105; three-course table d'h6te menu, $58

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FRENCH/QUEBECOIS

AU PIE D D E COCHON SNAPSHOT • Au Pied de Cochon is a restaurant with few pretensions. Artistic-plate-presentation seekers , "heart smart" eaters, and vegetarians be damned. Thi s is a place for charcuterie , foie gras, venison chops, lamb shanks, and th e kind o f hearty French far e that chefs themselve s enjo y afte r a n early-mornin g excursio n t o the market, when a bowl of steaming onion soup and a glass of inky Crozes-Hermitage hit the spot better than a croissant an d a cafe" au lait. Chef Martin Picard's latest folly is updating FrenchCanadian classic s suc h a s poutine an d poudin g chomeur . Thi s exciting bistro/brasserie, like its owner (and the crowd, consisting of the Plateau's hippest thirty- an d fortysomethings), has character—a quality all too rare on today's restaurant scene. THE BIG PICTURE • Like his local English counterpart, Glob e and Rosali e chef Davi d McMillan , Marti n Picar d i s often con sidered a culinary enfant terrible : a passionate an d opinionate d young che f wh o like s thing s don e hi s way, favouring artisana l meats and organic produce over standard ingredients, and injecting a large dose of personalit y into ever y dish. Picar d ha s lon g been acclaime d fo r hi s bol d tak e o n souther n Frenc h cuisine , serving whole fish and chickens baked in a salt crust, lamb shanks slow-cooked i n fa t (confit) , an d duc k magrets pile d hig h wit h wild mushrooms. Hot foie gras enhanced with lavender honey or chocolate was considered his signature dish . You'll find such unusual dishes, and plenty of new ones, at his latest restaurant—al l reasonabl y priced unde r $20 . Begin you r meal with oreilles de crisse, half-moon-shaped slices of deep-fried lard that are dry, supercrisp, and cut into bite-size pieces far more appealing tha n th e larg e cabane-a-sucre variety. Following tha t bit o f indulgence , conside r th e onio n sou p filled with jus t th e right amoun t o f cheese , croutons, an d caramelize d onions , all

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suspended in a robust beef broth. The cochonailles plate includes a fine assortment of pork charcuterie made in-house. My preferred starter is a simple plate of gently flavoured, thinly sliced smoked ham (credite d to a certain Marcel Picard, a farmer fro m L'Estrie and no relation to the chef) served with croutons doused with peppery virgin olive oil. Main course s include a n Alsatian choucroute consistin g o f tangy fermented cabbage, Strasbourg sausage, baked ham, and salt pork. The ragout de pattes de cochon is not the usual sauce-heavy stew but a n assembly of small meatballs an d vegetable s topped with a crisp square of breaded, deep-fried—fatty an d gelatinous —pig's feet meat . If you're an adventurous gourmand , don't miss the pig's fee t braised in maple syrup or Guinness, the homemade sausages, the braised lamb shank, and the velvety blood pudding (boudin). Another of my favourites is the whimsical foie gras hamburger. Instead of the expected beef patty with a sliver of foie gras, Picard offers a slab of it, solo, sauteed and sandwiched in a golden challah bun. Add to that a handful of mesclun, tomato, aged Cheddar, wild mushrooms , an d onio n compot e mixe d wit h duc k stock, and you have the most luxurious lowbrow dish in the city. In summer, the menu lightens up considerably, with fresh fish and seafood—sourced out by Picard and his staff each spring— replacing all those braised meats. For dessert there's a classic creme brulee, a sugar pie for two, pouding chomeur, and a velvety baked apple served atop a buttersoaked slic e of pain rustique . If Ros e Drummond strawberries are available, try them with a scoop of the homemade vanilla ice cream. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Martin Picard. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Au Pied d e Cochon' s origina l decor is one of its strengths. Napkin rings, menus, and business cards are al l emblazoned with a n amusin g cartoon o f the chef , frying pan in hand, riding a smiling pig. Picard was lucky enough to score a locale on one of the city's most popular restaurant strips

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that once housed a pizzeria, and he puts it s wood-burning ove n to good use. Large loaves of country bread are sliced on a butcher's block next to a refrigerated takeout counter fille d with duck confit, tourtieres , and foi e gra s terrines. Othe r origina l touches in clude numbere d woo d tables , mirrore d walls , an d a n ope n kitchen filled with chefs wearing funky flopp y hats and T-shirts . WINE LIST • The wine list is filled wit h a smartly chosen selec tion o f international wine s priced betwee n $2 8 and $167 , with two-thirds of the bottles costing less than $55. Au Pied de Cochon may be Avenue Duluth's only licensed restaurant, but with prices like these, you won't miss bringing your own. DON'T MISS • The oreilles de crisse, the cochonailles plate , the ragout de pattes de cochon, the braised lamb shank, the foie gras hamburger, th e seafood platter, th e pouding chomeur , the sugar pie, and the Rose Drummond strawberries . WORDS TO THE WISE • Forget working up an appetite by spending an hour hunting for that elusive parking spot on the Plateau. Taking a cab or walking is your best bet. Au Pied d e Cochon i s a nonsmoking restaurant. As it says on the menu, "The onl y smoking permitted her e is that of salmons and hams. " AU PIED DE COCHO N 536 Avenue Duluth West (near Berri) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 281-1114 Web site: www.aupieddecochon.ca Open: 5 P.M.-midnight, Tuesday to Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended; nonsmoking environmen t Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $5-$18; main courses, $11.50-$20; desserts, $4.75-$8

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AU TOURNAN T DE L A RIVIER E SNAPSHOT • A mere 1 0 minutes from th e Champlain Bridge, Carignan's finest restaurant offers classic French food in a contemporary countr y setting. Wild mushroo m dishe s and meat s are standouts. Also a cut above is the impressive wine list and solici tous service. The tranquil atmosphere picks up on weekends and at Sunday brunch, when reservations are essential. THE BIG PICTURE • Au Tournant de la Riviere is a very French restaurant. Reading through th e menu, one doesn't ge t the sense that this establishment follows the trend towards market cuisine, as few of the selections (including dessert) are particularly seasonal. The menu offers either an elaborate multicourse tasting menu, or a four-course table d'hdt e that includes soup, starter, mai n course, and dessert. Although there are a number of luxury ingredients liste d (foi e gras , wild mushrooms , duck , lobster , sweetbreads), prices are reasonable. Service is one of the restaurant's drawing cards. Not only are the waitresses courteous, but the y also know the menu and wine list inside out, and they take conspicuous pride in their work. The soup s offere d includ e fis h soup , cucumbe r vichyssois e with shrimp, and minestrone. Th e fis h soup—enhance d with a generous dose of tomato an d serve d with th e requisit e saffron filled, garlicky rouille and grated cheese—is pleasant and assertive, but too thick to satisfy. Unable to absorb even a single drop of this potage, the croutons si t on the surfac e instead o f slowly sinking through the liquid. The vichyssoise, by contrast, is light, cream y without bein g cloying, and refreshing. Topped with a bunch o f baby coriander sprouts, its only off note is the half-dozen utterly tasteless Matane shrimp. The minestrone is also delicious. The robust chicken broth is filled with a mace'doine of fresh vegetables, and the flavour ac-

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cent comes from a dollop of basil-laden pistou (the French equivalent of—yo u guesse d it—pesto). Ever y spoonfu l offer s clear , summery flavours. Nice. Appetizers turn up hits and misses. One of the best is a flaky tart covere d wit h saute'e d leeks , goat' s cheese , and raisins . Jus t when I thought I'd had it with insipid goat's cheese starters, along comes one that offers a cheese with enough pungency to take the starring role it deserves. Paired with the melting leeks and sweet raisins, the tangy Chevre makes this dish a real showstopper. Cannelloni wit h foie gras and wil d mushrooms als o benefits from a cheese topping, which in this case turns out to be an orangecoloured, hazelnut-flavoure d Mimolette . Th e chees e shaving s garnish two crepes filled with chopped wild mushrooms an d bits of saute'ed foie gras served with a creamy mushroom sauce . It's a winning combinatio n o f flavours—so earth y and strong—ye t none o f the many wild mushrooms i n the mix come to the fore. The spiced duck in a croustillant casing is composed o f dark, confit-style shredde d duc k meat in a phyllo shell, the whole accompanied b y no mor e than a spattering o f sauce and a sprinkling of cinnamon. This fails to impress as it's all so dry—simply crying out fo r a ladleful o f sauce—and the stron g spice obliter ates the duck flavour. Many main course s seem to suffe r fro m th e sam e fault: vegetables used as an accessory instead o f as an integral part o f th e dish. A generous portion o f striped sea bass is marred by a sweet mango sauce and overcooked asparagus spears that add little. The lamb dish (chops and loin) is very good; the meat is pink, moist, and flavourful . Bu t the potato galette around which th e mea t is arranged i s soggy and tasteless . Althoug h th e magre t de canar d has a fine flavour, the texture is somewhat tough and spongy, and the skin lacks the desired crackly mouth feel . The chees e cours e features , among others , a Migneron d e Charlevoix and Sir Laurier d'Arthabaska. Desserts are worth th e indulgence. A hot apple tart features thinly sliced apples, a hazelnut filling, a crisp crust, and a scoop of rum ice cream. Also served with rum ic e cream are a mellow chocolate souffle' , and a Pavlova consisting of berries, hard meringue, and whipped cream .

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IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Jacques Robert. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The decor of this converted blue bam i s a conundrum o f contemporary styles . It features flyingsaucer-shaped light fixtures, wall-to-wall carpeting, yellow stucco walls, red-cushioned wicke r chairs, a n imposin g atrium , an d a n eclectic selection of paintings hung in every available space. The overriding feel is more modern hotel lobby than country restau rant. WINE LIST • The uniquely French wine list includes many prestigious and pricey bottles—including the wine world's Big Three —namely Chateau Petrus, Chateau dYquem, and Romanee-Conti. Fortunately, there are many modest selections as well, and the staf f is more than happy to consult within your price range. DON'T MISS • The goat's chees e tart, the lamb, and dishes that include wild mushroom s (mushroo m gatherin g is a passion o f the chef's). WORDS TO THE WISE • Those accustomed to hip and happening surroundings may find Au Tournant de la Riviere stodgy. But stodgy can be good, and many people would be happy to frequent an establishment such as this that offers attentiv e service and classic French food in a let's-get-away-from-it-all setting . AU TOURNANT DE LA RIVIERE 5070 Salaberry Location: Carignan Telephone: (450) 658-7372 Open: Dinner, 6:30 P.M.-9 P.M., Wednesday to Saturday; Sunday brunch, 11 A.M.-2 P.M. Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Four-course table d'hote menu, $37—$60; tasting menu, $70

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BICE SNAPSHOT • Show up for an evening at Bice for the food alone, and you'll be missing half the fun. This restaurant is an oasis for the sophisticated crowd , a place for a night of pampering and, of course, to see and be seen. The a la carte menu features a nice mix of nouvell e an d authenti c Italia n fare , wit h a goo d choic e o f starters, pastas , assorte d risotti , and plent y o f main-course fish and mea t dishes . Though th e tentlik e summer terrac e is one of the mos t stunnin g dinin g spaces i n the city , the long , candleli t dining room provides a fine wintertime alternative. THE BI G PICTURE • It feel s lik e ages ago that th e spac e once occupied by the Waddington Gallery was plastered with "Coming Soon" signs promising a Montreal Bice , a new addition t o tha t stylish international restauran t chai n (founde d in th e 1920 s i n Milan) wit h branches i n th e grea t metropolitan centres—Ne w York, London, Tokyo, and Paris. The signs, which eventually began to crumple and fade , seemed to hang there forever. I had al l but given up hope of seeing a restaurant o n this elegant strip of Rue Sherbrooke when the good news came that various partners from Primadonna and Mediterraneo were bringing Bice to life . They pulled i t together i n recor d time . Employee s were sent for training in Manhattan, and an Italian chef flew in from Milan to get the glamorous party started. It's taken a few years and a few growing pains for Bice to find solid footing . Two of Bice's former chefs—Jose Rodriguez and John Ledwell —should b e credite d fo r bringin g th e men u int o focu s an d adding a healthy dose of innovation. Today's chef, Mario L'Ecuyer, appears to be continuing in that vein. A recent meal with friend s starte d of f with a house cocktai l (Cosmopolitan) an d crouton s serve d with choppe d frie d squid , goat's cheese, and chickpe a spread, and a tomato an d basil con-

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casse, along with a bowl of fried shiitake mushroom s wit h pin e nuts and garlic. Both the room's sophisticated ambienc e and the predinner munchies scored high. The marinated grilled octopus starter was spicy and deliciously tender, an d wa s accompanied b y a spoonful of firm lim a beans and a few strips of sweet oven-roasted tomatoes. Also superb was a plate of fried calamar i paired with tempura vegetables. The squid rings were lightly battered, the vegetables were crisp and not a bit greasy, and the tw o dipping sauces—spice d aioli and ponzu — provided two marked flavour enhancers that are worlds apart. A plate of grilled shrimp served with a savoury bread pudding, rosemary oil , an d potat o gaufrette s wa s memorable fo r th e re silient, fresh shrimp. Particularly appreciated was a plate of oysters prepared thre e ways: traditional, with a bit o f spinach; warmed over an d sprinkle d wit h truffl e oil ; an d suspende d i n a glass of cold sake. For main courses, the carnivore of our group enjoyed the osso buco with risott o Milanese, which featured falling-off-the-bone tender veal shank, and creamy, al dente risotto. Pasta lovers shouldn't rnis s Bice's selection of primi piatti, as most of the pasta is made in-house. Though the pappardelle with Mozzarella an d tomat o crea m sauc e has lon g been a favourite , don't overloo k anothe r o f Bice's signature pastas—vea l ravioli (ravioli della Massaia). Unlike so many inferior renditions o f this classic, this generous portion offers tende r half-moo n pasta pillows that are meaty (as opposed to pasty) and smothered in a rich and potent wild mushroom sauce. I know of no other Italian restaurant that takes as much care with the dessert course as Bice. Pastry chef Rodney Aguilar offer s simple and elegant creations presented with flair. The milk chocolate semifredd o with carame l consist s o f a squar e o f froze n mousse that's unctuous enough to coat the roof of your mouth. Chocolate lovers will be treated to one of the best molten choco late cakes around, especially since it's paired with an intense pistachio ice cream. A banana parfait glace 1 filled with lemon cream provides a light finish for those wise enough to avoid the temptation of chocolate at the end of an Italian meal.

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Service at Bice is good, if a tad reserved . To be fair, the young waiters are usually at hand and make fine menu and wine suggestions. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Mario L'Ecuyer. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE •The decor is very smart, chic in a rather understated way, and perfectly suited to the location. The room, usually packed with downtown's best-dresse d diners , follows th e Bic e formul a with bol d fresh-flowe r arrangements, round-back wooden chairs , thick white tablecloths, an d a magnificent outdoor terrace. The best seats, next to the front window, offer terrifi c view s of Ru e Sherbrooke an d th e Linto n buildin g across the street. WINE LIST • Bice's predominantly Italian win e list is short bu t well chosen. You'll find plenty of costly Barolos and Brunellos, but those less willing to splurge are well served, especially with white wines. Wines by the glass are another goo d choice here, for they are generously poured and also fairly priced ($7.50). DON'T MISS• The calamari and tempura vegetables, the oysters prepared three ways, the marinated grilled octopus, the osso buco, the vea l ravioli , the pappardell e wit h Mozzarell a and tomat o cream sauce, and the desserts. WORDS TO THE WISE • Many complain that a night out at Bice can be a costly affair. True, but i f you order carefully (the pastas are always delicious) you'll end up with a bill on a par with many less extravagant establishments. The lunchtime table d'hfite offers excellent value, and in the summer months, lunch on Bice's terrace is unbeatable.

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BICE 1504 Rue Sherbrooke West (near Guy) Location: Downtow n Telephone: (514) 937-6009 Web site: www.bicemontreal.com Open: Lunch, noon-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.-11 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $9.50-$17.50; main courses, $22.50-$36; desserts, $8

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BISTRO A CHAMPLAIN SNAPSHOT • If you wanted to build a restaurant around the best wine cellar in the country, you'd hav e a hard time outdoing Dr . Champlain Charest' s Bistro a Champlain. Although th e restau rant's name includes the word "bistro," chef Pierre Lavallee's style is hardly casual. Expect inventive market cuisine featuring the best local produce , suc h a s foie gras , fish, red meats , an d raw-mil k cheeses that simply cry out to be paired with the cellar's fine bottles. Service is first-class, arid the romantic countr y dinin g roo m boasts views of Lac Masson and a n impressive array of artworks, including paintings by local artist Jean-Paul Riopelle. THE BIG PICTURE • There are two camps in the rarefied world of gastronomes: the food people (gourmets) and the wine people (oenophiles). The oenophile's world o f grapes, corks, breathing, decanting, tannins, nose, bouquet, an d vintage has little to do with

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the gourmet' s worl d o f choic e ingredients, plate presentations, sweetness, saltiness , temperature , an d crunch . Although bot h worlds deal with complexity of flavour (call it the overactive taste bud syndrome), each firmly believes that the other is a mere complement to itself. Entering the dining room of Bistro a Champlain, one sense s immediately which camp one has penetrated. Wine remains this restaurant's raison d'toe, a point punched home when a wine list as imposing as The Book ofKells i s placed reverentially in the centre of the table. One could spend hours studying this list without sampling a drop. The selection is outstanding: page after pag e of the best that money can buy. Flipping through, one is blinded by zeros. Prices range from the marginally affordable t o the secondmortgage-on-the-house variety. A methuselah of 1990 RomaneeConti i s listed at a stratospheric $60,000 . The good news is that there's plenty of choice for those with $50-a-bottle budgets. Although pairing food with such heady wines can be difficult , chef Pierre Lavalle'e is up to the challenge. Despite the establishment's name, his menu shuns bistro standards like steak frites and creme caramel, instead featurin g beautifull y presented, refine d Quebec marke t cuisine . Lavallee exploit s hi s ingredient s with gusto. Fresh bluefin tun a is covered with a coriander, chive, and dill crust and seare d a F unilateral (o n one side), resulting in th e tenderest bite of fish this side of sashimi. Its inventive accompaniments includ e marinated , julienned daikon , deep-fried leek , ratatouille, and local milkweed pods, the taste of which is best described as a cross between asparagus and broccoli. Asparagus-topped seared scallops surround a salmon-wrapped timbale o f se a urchin roe , the arrangemen t set on poo l o f ric h Chardonnay butter. A generous portion o f pan-seared foie gras, decorated with a tarot-root chi p and a slice of oven-dried blood orange, is paired wit h a peach, currant , pin e nut , an d groun d cherry compote marinate d i n Cabernet Sauvigno n vinegar. The marriage o f earth y and fruit y flavour s i s excellent, but th e foi e gras, especially the thin parts, is just this side of overcooked, resulting in a bitter taste. Also disappointing is a crab bisque with

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morels. Not only does this watery soup lack the body of a bisque and th e flavour of either crab or highly perfumed more l mushrooms, bu t th e bow l is also covere d i n a puff pastr y crust that lacks flakiness. By contrast, the main courses deliver. The cider and mustard grain roasted sweetbreads are soft an d sweet , and serve d with a mille-feuille compose d o f tomato concass ^ an d smok y saute'ed apples stacked between layers of tarot chips. Mallard duck (known in French as "colvert") is presented two ways: with the breast thinly sliced and fanned around a delicious parsnip-green apple puree, and with the leg, as a connt, placed beside brown butter-coated girolle mushrooms. Althoug h the confi t i s a bit dry , the breas t meat has a delicious, full flavour. Two other offerings , venison and beef, are expertly cooked to the idea l medium-rare. Th e veniso n tournedo s i s served wit h glazed carrots , a pure'e of Ratte potatoes enhance d wit h bits of black truffle, and a potent sauce flavoured with bittersweet chocolate and juniper berries. Here's a terrific dish that cries out for one of the bank-breaking bottles of red wine from th e cellar. So does the filet of beef. This pan-seared filet, no larger than the size of a child's fist, is the increasingl y popular an d ever-so-flavourfu l Angus beef. Equally bold are the accompaniments: smoky grilled artichokes wit h Parmigiano-Reggiano , and a miniature version of the caramel-coloured pie of thin potato slices known as "pommes Anna." Another moment o f wine envy is likely to com e when sampling th e outstandin g selectio n o f cheeses from Fromageri e du Marche i n St . Jerdme, including a Mi-Careme, a three-year-old Perron Cheddar, an aged Victor et Berthold, and a cinder-coated St. Maure goat's cheese. On the same high note are the desserts, all made in-house an d served with coulis, creme anglaise, and fres h fruit. A warm apple and pear tarte Tatin provides the ideal tangy contrast to the homemade vanilla ice cream. The Valrhona chocolate mi-cuit feature s thick cake on the outside, molten chocolat e on the inside. Coffee nouga t glace with pistachios and a caramel spice sauce provides the only spicy note—reminiscent of gingerbread, and most enjoyable.

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Befitting suc h a fin e dinin g experience , servic e at Bistr o a Champlain is first-class. And, if you're lucky, you might be invited to tour the magnificent wine cellar at the end of the meal, where you may just run int o Dr. Charest himself, glass in hand. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Pierre Lavalle'e. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Beauty, be it visual or olfactory, appears to be the foundation of Dr. Charest's bistro. The restaurant is located on scenic Lac Masson, about an hour's drive from Montreal. The interior i s rustic yet elegant, with log-cabin walls, crystal chandeliers , an d larg e origina l painting s b y Mir6, Sam Francis, Joan Mitchell, Quebec artists Louis Gosselin and Louise Prescott, and th e most famou s Lac Masson resident , Jean-Paul Riopelle (the Riopelle connection i s all the more intriguing when we consider tha t he is one o f an esteemed group of artists who, since World War II, has been asked to create a label for the great Bordeaux wine Chateau Mouton-Rothschild). WINE LIST • With its 35,000-bottle wine cellar, a Wine Spectator magazine Grand Award winner, and more than 100 6-litre bottles (known a s methuselahs) o f th e world' s mos t prestigiou s wine, Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, this famed Laurentia n establish ment is a wine-lover's paradise. DON'T MISS • The wine-friendly meats, the chees e course, the Chateau d'Yquem offered by the glass, and an after-dinner tour of the wine cellar. WORDS TO THE WISE»Yes, the wine list is a great drawing card for highbre d oenophiles , but thos e who liv e in the food-lover' s camp will not b e disappointed. Conside r invitin g alon g a non drinking frien d t o d o th e driving , a s the hour-lon g roa d tri p could be a bit chancy after such a night of indulgence.

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BISTRO A CHAMPLAIN 75 Chemin Masson Location: Ste. Marguerite du Lac Masson Telephone: (450) 228-4988 Web site: www.bistroachamplain.com Open: Summer, 6 p.M.-9:30 P.M., daily; winter, 6 p.M.-9:30 P.M., Thursday to Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $8-$26; main courses, $21-$36; desserts, $9-$12; six-course tasting menu, $72.50

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BLEU RAISI N SNAPSHOT • Located just north of Avenue Laurier on a nondescript residential block of Rue St. Denis, Raisin Bleu is another of those smar t Platea u restaurant s that offe r th e midprice d ambi tious cuisine/friendl y service/relaxed ambience formula popular with gregariou s gourmets looking t o sav e a few dollars o n wine markups. Menu choices include the standard upscal e French favourites such as duck confit, deer filet, rack of lamb, and spiral twisted salmon filet. But what's admirable here is the inclusion of local ingredients such as hydromel, maple syrup, rabbit, cranberries, fbie gras, and—most prominently—cheese. THE BIG PICTURE • If you think Laracam is a hot ne w singe r from Prance , Victor e t Berthol d i s the Quebecoi s equivalen t o f Bowser and Blue, and Le Ciel de Charlevoix is a painting by JeanPaul Riopelle, it's time you brushed u p on your Quebec cheeses. To do so , you coul d mak e your way to a cheese shop such as Le Fromagerie d u March e Atwater , Fromageri e Hamel , o r Le s Saveurs du Marche. Alternatively, you could head for Bleu Raisin,

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a 40-seat, bring-your-own-wine restaurant that works hard to ensure customers roll their tongues around "un 'tit bout de fromage" before walking out the door. The cheese angle has had to be played down since the restaurant's openin g three years ago. Nonetheless, there ar e still a few cheese-enhanced dishes , and th e chees e course includes a good selection of the best local varieties—the ideal solution for polishing off that last glass of wine predessert. The food is presented on no-frills whit e china , and th e waitres s has that irresistible , co quettish je ne sais quoi made famous by gamines like Leslie Caron and Audrey Tautou. Though menu selections are enticing, what appears to be lacking is a sense of seasonally. Dishes such as game hen with prunes, pheasant breast with mustard, and veal medallions with porcini mushrooms ar e best appreciate d afte r a day of raking leaves o r shovelling snow. In spring and summer, though, they might be a bit heavy. Fortunately, there are lighter options for summer dining, such as th e Vietnames e sprin g rolls. Artisticall y stacke d an d sur rounded b y decorative squiggle s of oliv e oil , reduce d balsami c vinegar, and beet vinaigrette, the cigar-thin rolls include two uncommon bu t welcom e ingredients, smoke d salmo n an d turbot . A rabbit terrin e with blueberries and maple syrup is another winner. Served on a bed of lettuce with a ring of reduced blueberry sauce, this terrine is smooth, yet not as creamy and cloying as pate' de foie. The meat is seasoned perfectly, and th e baby greens and caramelized onions provide a refreshing sweetness and tanginess. Main courses include tilapia (a.k.a. Saint Peter's fish), a duck and foie gras duo, and a filet o f red deer topped with melted cheese. The fish, with its sweet flavour an d fine texture, is well paired with, though no t overwhelme d by, a compote o f fresh an d sun dried tomatoes. The duc k dis h i s a mixe d affai r featurin g a large preserved duck leg, onion compote, maple syrup, cranberries, and Sauternes; on the side are two thin slices of hot foie gras swimming in a pool of sauce . The confi t i s better tha n average , but th e accompani ments add little other than sweetness and unwanted richness.

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Victor et Berthold is a strong raw-milk cheese. Melted as it is here on the deer dish, it all but obliterates the subtle flavour of the deer. That said , it does improve afte r th e first few bites, with th e melding o f intense flavour s complementin g th e meaty/meltin g mouth feel . The cheese course includes Chevr e Noir, Pied de Vent, Laracam, Kenogami, and more Victor et Berthold—all local varieties and well worth the $8 surcharge (owner Arnaud Thomas says eight to ten varieties are available every night). Desserts fall short. The chocolate mousse is dense enough t o almost see m chewy . Two small spoonful s o f grapefrui t granite served in a scooped-out grapefrui t peel would be better suite d as a palate cleanser between courses. And the sabayon with fresh frui t lacks the correct foamy consistency. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Carlos Mejia. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The settin g i s bistro moderne , with fres h blue - an d yellow-painte d walls , simple furnishings , a small bar, and tango music playing seductively in the background —very Left Bank. A flower-lined terrace out front and a comforting level of air conditioning insid e provid e just the right atmos phere for warm-weather dining . WINE LIST • Bring your own wine. DON'T MISS • The spring rolls, the rabbit terrine, the tilapia, and the cheese course. WORDS TO THE WISE • Bring-your-own-wine habitue's shoul d note that Bleu Raisin's prices are a notch above your average Avenue Duluth brochetterie. Keep in mind, however, that the quality of ingredients i s high and servic e is excellent. Our waitres s went so far as to have us taste our own wine before proceeding to pour it, an amusing bit of business for a BYOW establishment.

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BLEU RAISIN 5237 Rue St. Denis (near Laurier) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 271-2333 Web site: www.restaurant.ca/bleuraisin Open: 6 P.M.-11 P.M., Tuesday to Thursday; 5:30 p.M.-midnight, Friday and Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards (and Interac) Price range: Starters, $4.50-$9; main courses, $22-$36; cheese course, $8; desserts, $7; three-course table d'hote menu, $34-$48

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BRUNOISE SNAPSHOT« Thirtysomethings Zach Suhl and Miche l Ross are two o f th e city' s youngest restaurateurs . At Brunoise, Suhl has taken o n th e front-of-the-hous e dutie s whil e Ross handles th e cooking. The style of cuisine is contemporary and market based, a favourite of chef-proprietors. However, such restaurants usually feature elite ingredients, which is hardly the case at Brunoise. Here the philosophy is that a technically conceive d dish ca n be just as impressive as one made with sumptuous ingredients. S o instead of lobster and filet mignon, you'll get mussels and salmon , wit h the occasiona l smidgeo n o f foi e gra s or vanill a bea n use d a s a flavour enhancer . Add artistic plate presentations to the mix and you have one very appealing—and affordable—restaurant . THE BIG PICTURE • Dinner at Brunoise is a three-course affai r that begins with an amuse-bouche, usually a cold soup. Prices are listed next to the main courses, and all include a choice of starter, main course, and dessert.

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Of the appetizers, favourites include a puff pastry disk topped with preserved mushrooms place d on a round of eggplant caviar, served with an emulsion o f tomatoes and Manchego cheese. Also delicious is a bourride of mussels, a thick soup enhanced with saffron and orange zest, accompanied by croutons and aioli. Spooned atop plump mussel s an d cube d potatoes , th e sou p i s rich an d heady, heavy on the salt and saffron . My preferred starters are the house terrine and the salmon escabeche. Made of cold rabbit and pork meat layered around a core of foie gras , the whole wrapped in prosciutto and hel d togethe r with gelatin, the terrine is in the style of a French jambon persille or a British cold mea t pie. Its chunky/creamy/chewy mix of textures an d subtl e white-mea t flavour s ar e well enhance d wit h a quenelle of sauce gribiche—that wonderful old-fashioned French sauce made with hard-boiled eggs , mustard, oil , herbs, gherkins , and capers. The escabech e includes three slice s o f seared and marinate d salmon tha t ar e served col d an d toppe d with smoke d salmon . What's interesting here is the consistency of the fish, which seems a cross between fried and poached , if a bit mor e firm. The large portion's richness is cut by an accompanying shaved fennel salad. Main courses continue in the same inventive-classics-with-atwist vein. A roasted pork loin arrive s with braised endive, potatoes cooke d in duc k fat , and a beer an d grainy-mustar d sauce. Surrounded b y fat gnocch i is a succulen t preserve d rabbi t le g paired with carrots, spinach, and an orange jus. The saddle arrives swathed in prosciutto an d studded with rosemary. The best dessert is a fresh and invigorating vanilla panna cotta topped with passion fruit and basil syrup. The lemon tart served with raspberr y sorbe t tend s t o b e toug h crust-wise , bu t th e crunchy-based chocolat e pav e filled with honey is sure to please any sweet tooth. Service is another of Brunoise's fortes. The wait staff know the wines and men u description s dow n t o the las t asparagu s spear. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and co-owner Michel Ross.

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DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Brunoise maybe inexpensive but you would never know it by the decor. Designer Maria Rosa di loia has made th e long rectangular roo m intimat e b y closing in th e space with pape r bag-brown walls adorned wit h modern ligh t sconces, a black cement floor, and large mirrors over the bar and at the back of the room. The white linen-topped tables are surrounded with white cotton an d wicker chairs, and fine stemware and cutlery are lined up in front of every diner. Overall, the ambience is laid back. Dress is casual. WINE LIST • Brunoise's wine list is short by global standards but contains enough serious selections to keep the oenophiles comin g back. Prices are reasonable, and every night a few wines are available in 250-millilitre carafes. With such fair food prices, splurging on wine is a definite option . DON'T MISS«The house terrine, the mesclun salad, the salmon escabeche, the por k loin , the rabbit , th e chees e course, and th e panna cotta. WORDS TO THE WISE • How wonderful to hav e two young chefs givin g their all at prices we can all afford. They could have gone the high-end route; instead, they're trying out a whole new concept. Bu t be warned: With new ideas often com e occasiona l stumbles, such as oversalted dishes and odd flavour combinations . BRUNOISE 3807 St. Andre (near Roy) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 523-3885 Web site: www.brunoise.ca Open: 5 P.M.-11 P.M., Tuesday to Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Three-course menu, $23-$34

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$$$

ITAUAN

BUONA NOTT E SNAPSHOT • Gorgeous waitresses , loud music , casua l Italia n food, and an industrial decor set the scene for the Main's trendies t eatery. After 1 2 successful years on Boulevard St. Laurent, Buona Notte could be considered a Montreal institution (bu t don't tell the trendies who look like they've just discovered th e place). What' s the secret of its success? Making it all feel new and exciting, night after night. And making sure that its brand of cool is accessible to all. Friendly is in, pretentious i s out. That's the golden rul e that seems to keep them coming back for more. THE BIG PICTURE • On your typical happening night at Buona Notte, many of the young turks in attendanc e loo k lik e they've just died and gone to heaven. It might have something to do with the gorgeous waitress/models , wh o wear hot pin k and lavender sheaths cut low on the neckline and high on the leg. Or maybe it's the pulsating background music that makes conversation conve niently impossible . Patron s gaz e reverently a t th e autographe d plates on display in the entranceway, signed by such high priests of hip as Jim Carrey, Nicolas Cage, and Bono—a reassuring sign that they're at the epicentre o f Montreal cool. Buona Notte cater s to those for whom dinin g ou t i s a rite of passage while providing a n excitin g nigh t o n th e Mai n fo r th e more experienced—a walk on a wild side. But this scene isn't for everyone. If you reserve a table for 8 P.M. on a busy night, you'll be faced with crowds, low lights, and loud background music . When ordering, you'll probably have to strain to catch the waitress's description o f the specials. By 9 P.M., you won't see much of what's put i n front o f you or be able to communicate wit h your dining companions without yelling. In short, it's not everyone's idea of a relaxing time. Happily, the onl y sense that's no t impaire d i n thi s environ ment is one's sense of taste. The menu is filled with popular mod-

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ern Italian dishes—pastas, pizzas, meats, fish—but the most in teresting choices are the dail y specials. Recent offerings hav e included a carpaccio of swordfish topped with olive oil, orange juice, and zest. Soft an d citrusy, it's an ideal summer starter. The classic carpaccio also gets novel treatment here. Paper-thin slice s of raw beef are replaced by chunkier morsel s that are lightly seared and tossed with the usual sidekicks, arugula and Parmesan shavings. Equally original i s a plate o f wild mushrooms wit h polenta . The firm polenta i s shaped into a round container, sliced in half, and filled with sautde d portobellin i an d Parisia n mushrooms . Although the polenta is excellent, rich and well seasoned, the portion i s too large . The mushrooms, pipin g ho t an d mixe d wit h concasse o f tomatoes , lac k seasoning , and th e swir l of reduce d balsamic vinegar fails to provide the desired kick. Main course s are much better. The veal chop is expensive by global standards bu t wort h ever y penny. Pounded t o perfection, the mea t i s tender, flavourful, an d rose ' in th e centre—jus t th e way it ought to be. The huge chop is topped with a delicious heap of portebellini , oyster , and Parisia n mushroom s an d bab y new potatoes, an d the mix is enlivened by a bold herb-lemon season ing. Yum. Sophisticated palates, shunning the pizza, will no doubt hon e in on the mezzaluna pasta. The five plump pockets are filled with gamy guine a fow l an d serve d wit h a cream-based mushroo m sauce—excellent. Desserts are surprisingly subdued fo r such a funky place. The "Bongo Bongo" does not live up to its exotic name. It's just a large profiterole with chocolate sauce, okay vanilla ice cream, and tough choux pastry. Those who don't like their desserts chewy, ooey, and gooey should abstain. My favourite is a simple Ricotta cheesecake with pine nuts. Its sweet taste and dry texture are ideally offset by a tangy red fruit coulis. Hats of f to Buon a Notte's waitresses . Friendly and efficient , they provide service with a smile despite working the night shif t in daint y mules. The hectic scen e is such that the timing of th e courses can be a bit prolonged. And the fact that patrons tend to monopolize the attention o f such cool chicks is understandable.

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IN THE KITCHEN • Chefs Johnny Vella and Josee Vidaurre. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The decor here is industrial bistro : a mix of open pipes, mirrors, ceiling fans, and turquoise and maroon walls illuminated by spotlights and votive candles. Needless to say, there's an ashtray on every table (salt and pepper shakers are available upon request). Open floor-to-ceiling windows face a raucous strip of the Main (where hard-revving motorcycles abound), making it difficult t o judge whether noise levels are higher insid e or outside. WINE LIST • Buona Notte's wine list features an impressive array of Italian wines (many privately imported): Champagne, Barolos , and Brunellos for the visiting celebs, and inexpensive Chiantis for the newcomers to the scene. DON'T MISS • The daily specials and pasta s are probably your best bet. WORDS TO THE WISE • It woul d b e eas y to categoriz e thi s restaurant a s just anothe r ho t spot . But Buona Nott e ha s been going strong for years now, while wannabes surrounding it on St. Laurent have come an d gone . It' s no t th e bes t restauran t fo r a quiet evening with grandma, but it's the place for those who want to feel they're in the right place at the right time. BUONA NOTTE 3518 Boulevard St. Laurent (near Sherbrooke) Location: The Main Telephone: (514) 848-0644 Web site: www.buonanotte.co m Open: 1 2 P.M.-3 A.M., Monday to Friday, 1 P.M.-3 A.M., Saturday, and 6 P.M.-3 A.M., Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: Major card s Price range: Starters, $9-$14.50; main courses, $10.25-$31; desserts, $5-$7.50

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CAFE MASSAWIPP I SNAPSHOT • There's plenty going on behind the wide porch and lace curtain s o f North Hatley' s Cafe ' Massawippi . Chefs-owners Dominic Tremblay and Maryse Carrier's original, high-end cuisine is offered a t prices well below what you'll pay in the big city. And though the setting and ambience are country casual, the cooking and service offer the utmost in professionalism. THE BIG PICTURE • Take a look a t man y o f Montreal's to p restaurants and you'll notice that most are chef-owned. From the choice of napkins and cutlery to the flavour o f the tuile propped on your dessert, chef-owners offer thei r patrons a highly personalized dining experience. Call it purity of vision. It's a tough gig . At a time whe n four-lea f clover s an d uni corns are easier to come by than bank loans for restaurants, chef entrepreneurs have to be careful. Yet for a chef to make a mark, a certain amount of creative risk-taking is imperative. If the che f is talented enoug h t o manag e th e financia l responsibilities whil e reaching the level of maturity in his or her cooking require d t o produce a menu tha t is both unique and desirable, then a star is born. Cafe ' Massawippi , co-owned b y chef s Domini c Tremblay and Maryse Carrier, is a case in point. The monthly men u (written on a chalkboard beside the fron t door) offer s a table d'hote format that includes appetizers, main courses, desserts, and coffee . Dinner for two with wine will probably cost less than $100, which is roughly half the price of dinner at one of Montreal's top restaurants. What's more, the ingredients favoured b y this kitchen—lamb, sweetbreads, oysters, fresh sal mon, duck— ar e first-class. Dinner start s of f with deliciou s homemad e focacci a an d a n amuse-bouche such as a cream of zucchini soup with smoked herring, or chicken-live r pat6 served with a curried raisin chutney. The artfully presented appetizers always draw raves. Standouts include a spring roll filled with goat's cheese and spinach set atop

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a fresh salad of delicately dresse d apples, raisins, an d slice d Belgian salsify , an d a large cod raviole with lime vinaigrette served with braised fennel, eggplant, and tomato coulis. The best starte r is the "terrine mystere." The mystery meat turns out to be lamb. A terrine made with lamb? Yes, and once you taste the perfectly seasoned meat accented with carraway seeds and a spoonful of cranberry salsa, you'll wonder why everyone isn't making this dish. Main courses follow in the sam e creative style as the starters . This is typified by the pave of salmon topped with deep-fried rice noodles and serve d with spinac h an d sautee d re d pepper s an d Ratte potatoes. Another good choice is the thinly sliced magret of duck served with celery root puree, sauteed spinach, and a phyllo turnover filled with herbed mushrooms . Of the homemade desserts, the gentle ginger creme brulee and the warm chocolate cream topped with light hazelnut-chocolat e ice cream are both enjoyable . A nice alternative to desser t is the cheese course, which includes some of Quebec's best cheeses. Service i n thi s convivia l countr y settin g i s casual, efficient , and friendly . IN TH E KITCHEN • Chefs an d co-owner s Domini c Tremblay and Maryse Carrier. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The setting is more homey bistro than cafe. This restaurant resides in a country house with the requisite fron t porc h and lace y drapes. But if this i s Holly Hobby' s style, she's certainl y al l grown up. From the larg e and colourful prints (some quite risque^ hung on the putty-coloured walls to the young, attractive wait staff and the stylish modern food, there's an undeniable feelin g of experimentation i n the air. WINE LIST • The short, eclecti c wine list i s reasonably priced, with well-chosen bottles (an d a few half bottles) from California, France, and Italy. Wines by the glass are also available for as little as $5. DON'T MISS • The goat's cheese spring roll, the lamb terrine, the salmon, and the ginger creme brulee.

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WORDS TO THE WISE • Granted, the food might benefit from a simplified approac h with more of an emphasis o n pronounced, pure flavours. That said, however, this is a gutsy little restaurant, offering original , high-en d cuisin e a t som e o f th e bes t price s around. Be warned: Cafe Massawippi is only open for dinner; un less you have accommodations nearby or are planning a visit t o the area , the driv e to and fro m Montrea l can be arduous, especially in winter. CAFE" MASSAWIPPI 3050 Chemin Capelton Location: North Hatley Telephone: (819) 842-4528 Open: 6 P.M.-10 P.M., Wednesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Three-course table d'hote menu, $30—$45

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ITALIAN.

CAVALLI SNAPSHOT • There have been mixed reports concerning Cavalli since its opening in June 2003. The space lay empty for years after the demis e of Mondo Saks , and th e ne w trendy decor an d cavernous room seeme d destined t o overwhel m the food. But you have to giv e Cavalli a chance. Sipping a cocktail and swayin g to the cool background music, you'll find yourself having something you probably haven't ha d a t a restaurant i n a while: fun! But a restaurant is only as good as its food, and i n that respect Cavalli doesn't disappoint. Though the underlying style is Italian, ingredients like wasabi, spices, chipotle peppers, and plenty of coriander screa m fusion . Ye t if thi s i s fusion , it' s fusio n a t it s mos t disciplined and restrained.

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THE BIG PICTURE • The best way to kick off a night at Cavalli is with a Bellini, a cocktail traditionall y made with sparklin g wine and fresh peach juice. Cavalli's Bellini is a Champagne-based drink gussied up with peach schnapps and vodka. It's refreshing, vibrant, intense, and fun—much like the restaurant itself . Every appetizer sample d get s a firm thumbs-up. Th e grille d octopus is tender and charred, and lined up on a bed of firm and meaty chickpeas. Served alongside is a salad of enoki mushrooms, lamb's lettuce, and marinated red and yellow cherry tomatoes. Also not to be missed is the tempura of shrimp, calamari, and soft-shell crab. Tempura and calamari are old news in these parts, but what's inventive here is the way the chefs have managed to trap spicy garlic a'ioli inside the tempura shell . If fresh seafood is your pleasure, try the seared scallop ceviche with grilled onion vinaigrette, roasted pepper puree, tomato con cass6, and homemade potat o chips . The only thing missing is a touch of acidity to enliven the flavours, something like the vinaigrette used on the plate of white fish carpaccio. The olive oil d lemon-tamari vinaigrette transforms the dish from a plate of w pink snappe r int o meltin g mouthful s o f meat enlivene d wit h crisp, bitter greens. Beef carpacci o i s availabl e i n almos t ever y Italian restau rant. Here it has been completely rejuvenated. The meat is sliced millimetre-thin, arrange d in a perfect circle, and topped with thin rounds o f raw Jerusalem artichoke , a mound o f baby dandelion greens, and, in place of the usual Parmesan shavings, thin slices of Mimolette cheese. But the ingredient that takes it to the next level is sliced Italian baby peaches preserved wit h whit e truffles . Th e combination o f the melting raw meat, bitter greens, rich cheese, and luxurious truffled peache s is a thrill your taste buds will not soon forget. The star of the pasta lineup is the macaroni with Fontina and Cheddar, black truffle purfe , and brioche bread crumbs. With al dente macaron i rigate , a uniform coatin g o f cheese, and a pro nounced taste of truffle, it's a witty play on the comfort-food clas sic. All that's missing is a topping of foie gras. Main courses continue to impress. Sushi-grade tuna is lightly seared in a crust of sunflower seed s and serve d with room tern -

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perature bo k choy , Israel i couscous , an d enok i mushroom s dressed with a wasabi and tobiko vinaigrette . Rack of lamb i s given the Mediterranea n treatmen t wit h a n oregano crust, oven-roasted tomatoes, a twirl of spinach, lemon salsa, Feta cheese, and a sauc e mad e wit h blac k olives an d pa n juices. If striped sea bass is the fish of the day, don't pass it up. Moist and delicate, it's topped with a brunoise of mango with mint and served with an intense pepper sauce . Desserts don' t quit e liv e u p t o th e sophisticatio n o f th e savoury menu. Gone are the Italian influence, colourful presentations, and much of the innovative spirit. Still, there are some ups, such as a moist carro t cake iced with goat's cheese, and a creamheavy trio consisting of fluffy coffee mousse matched with an Earl Grey tea creme brulee and Mascarpone ice cream. Under the watchful eye of floor manager Pasquale Ruffolo an d co-owner Giann i Caruso, service is solid. Though waits between dishes tend to lag, with all the action you'll barely notice. IN THE KITCHEN • Chefs Fran k Gioffre y an d Gaeta n Poitras . DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The 160-seat dining room is usually packed with a very Sex in the Ciiy-style crowd. The trendy design was conceived by architect Miguel Cancio, who has created a sort of preppy fun house with alternating cand y pink and celery green velvet chairs, seventies wood panelling, a thin-striped woo l carpet, and an illuminated black-and-pin k bar. WINE LIST • Cavalli's wine list is comprised o f Californian an d Italian wines, with a good choice of bottles in the $50 range. DON'T MISS • The carpaccio, the seafoo d tempura, the grille d octopus, th e macaron i with Fontin a an d Cheddar , th e se a bass, and the tuna. WORDS TO THE WISE • Keep in mind when choosing your outfit that this is one glitzy restaurant, which means the best-dresse d and the regular s get the choic e tables u p front . Also, Cavalli is a

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restaurant tha t favour s smokers ; o n bus y nights , nonsmoker s might have to settle for the less-than-desirable tables at the back of the room. CAVALLI

2040 Rue Peel (near de Maisonneuve) Location: Downtow n Telephone: (514) 843-510 0 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.- 11 P.M., and 5:3 0 P.M.- 11 P.M., Saturday and Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $12.50-$14.50; pastas, $25-$28; main courses, $28-$36; desserts, $9

$,-$v

THAI

CHAO PHRAY A SNAPSHOT • Few customers see m concerne d wit h detail s o f Thai tabl e etiquett e at Outremont' s stylish Cha o Phraya . And, judging from th e tame menu selections, the restaurant itself does not see m overl y concerned wit h authenticity . Wha t th e crowd s appear to be drawn to here is the light, health-conscious nature of Thai cuisine, and its exotic flavours—ginger, coconut, lemongrass, peanut, chili pepper—which excite the palate and rejuvenate the senses. This makes Chao Phraya one of the best restaurants for a casual meal, especially during the hot summer weather. THE BIG PICTURE • As you enter Cha o Phraya, the first thin g that hits you are the seductive aromas. Those lovely smells emanate from the 150 items listed on the menu (thoug h most of the main course s are interchangeable, dependin g o n th e choic e of meat).

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Prices and portion size s are reasonable, so ordering a variety of dishe s to shar e family-style is an excellent wa y to sampl e the many facets of this cuisine. Don't worry about leftovers; it's considered good manners in Thai circles to leave food on the plate— proof of your host's generosity (doggy bags are provided for those who enjoy cold pad Thai with their morning Rice Krispies). Salads provide a fine start to the meal. The duck salad, made with spicy roast duck, red onions, mint leaves, chives, and coriander, is excellent. More typically Thai is a salad o f green mango, onions, hot chilies , and dry shrimp. Unfortunately, it has a fishy aftertaste, whic h point s t o a n exces s of bottled fis h sauce , for there's nary a shrimp in the mk. Also , the dish is overly sweet, and the mango has little or no mango flavour . If it's flavour you're after, don't skip the soup course. The ho t and sour wonton sou p looks plain enough, but it packs a punch of sour, salty, and spicy, with the added aromatic kick of lemongrass. Also outstanding is the hot and sour chicken soup with coconut milk. The cooling nature of the milk neutralizes the spice, and every spoonful come s up with a lily-white morsel of chicken breast—a concert of tastes in perfect harmony . Of the ho t appetizers , the breaded shrim p ar e fleshy, tender , and tasty , though hardl y enhance d b y the swee t plu m dippin g sauce. The overstuffe d imperia l rolls ar e also lacking taste-wise. Packed with cabbage, noodles, and shredded carrot, they seem to lack any discernible seasoning. One of the best-loved Thai appetizers is chicken satay. Though moist, this version features grilled meat that lacks any of the de sirable charred marking s or flavour. The accompanyin g peanu t sauce tastes more of coconut tha n o f peanut, and the overriding taste sensatio n i s sweet a s opposed t o spic y (Tha i cuisin e has a reputation for being fiery, but this tame dish is nothing more than pleasant). Main-course dishes include more highs and lows. The sauteed pork with ginge r and onions would b e better with a sauce thick enough to coat the meat and vegetables; as served, it gathers in a puddle a t th e botto m o f the plate . The sautee d chicke n wit h peanut sauc e and crisp y spinach sounds better tha n i t tastes. As with the satay, the sauce lacks character, and a bit of texture would

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have provided a nice contrast to the flaccid chicken. The spinach, which appears to have been sprinkled with sugar, is too sweet for even the most well-developed sweet tooth. Also suffering i n th e flavour department i s that Tha i restauran t signatur e dish , pa d Thai. Again, it's bland; the duck pieces within ar e especially lackluster. Those up for spicy may enjoy the sauteed roast duck with hot chili and basil, known in Thai as "ped pad kha pao." It arrives glistening o n a beautiful pedestal plate . Unfortunately, all the hea t (spice) appears to be emanating from the crust of chili powder on the duck, not fro m an y layering of spices or dried chili peppers . Without a doubt, this restaurant's forte is curries. The panang beef curry is superb. Spooned over the excellent steamed rice, the meat is tender and the sauce, a blend of coconut milk, curry paste, sweet basil, and peanuts, is as delicious a s an Indian curry but even more aromatic . Chicke n i n a red curry sauc e is another winner . This melange is fruitier than the panang curry and well matched with chicken ; it includes mor e fragran t basi l leaves, red pepper, and pineapple. After thi s plethora of novel taste sensations, the onl y dessert that seems appropriate i s fried bananas with ice cream. Nothing too excitin g here, but wh o goes to a Thai resto fo r the desserts? In my book, jasmine tea or a fruity liqueur would be more tha n sufficient. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Piao Rattanasamy. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • This restaurant is usually crowded with casuall y dressed diners . Th e long rectangula r room is elegant, though not exotic enough to transport you to faraway lands for th e duration o f your meal. WINE LIST • The win e list i s short bu t affordable ; a bottle o f Californian Caberne t Sauvigno n provides a neutral backdro p for th e meal's diverse flavours. DON'T MISS • The duck salad, the delicious soups, and the curries.

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WORDS TO THE WISE • Though i n thi s busy roo m on e can sometimes feel neglected, service at Chao Phraya is, on the whole, quite good. If you're a seeker of exotica, there are discoveries to be made. Just don't be blinded by the crowds and lengthy menu into thinking that this is the last word in Thai cuisine. CHAO PHRAY A 50 Avenue Laurier West (corner Clark) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514 ) 272-5339 Web site: www.chao-phraya.com Open: 5 p.M.-lO P.M., Sunday to Wednesday, 5 p.M.-ll P.M. , Thursday to Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $3.95-$9.95; main courses, $7.95-$16.95; desserts, $1.50-$5.95

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L^itH/. UJQiJyiv J SNAPSHOT • Look no further than the huge flat Dover sole pictured on the menu for the specialty of the house: fish. This historic Old Montrea l restaurant , a favourite of local businessme n an d lawyers, has classi c French seafood , a civilized atmosphere, an d solicitous service. The trout and Dover sole are sublime. At lunch, join th e regular s at the ba r fo r oysters , lobste r sandwiche s o n brown bread, beer, and coleslaw. THE BIG PICTURE • Many of the city's finer restaurants are examples o f a n internationa l type . L'Expres s is pure Pari s bistro . Lucca reminds us of the best Italian trattorias . Milos has already reproduced it s neo-Greco digs in New York City and Athens. But

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if there's on e restaurant absolutel y roote d t o it s Montreal her itage, it would have to be Chez Delmo. Located on Rue Notre Dame West, a stone's throw from NotreDame Cathedral, in the heart of what was once Montreal's busy financial and business district, Che z Delmo is a restaurant from a bygone era. Entering the place is like stepping into a sepia-toned photograph take n at the turn of the last century. This three-floor establishment opene d i n 190 2 as a private Englis h gentlemen' s club. The ground floor was for drinking. On the second floor, they gambled. And the top floo r was—well, let's just say that the top floor was the only floor where women were allowed. Today, puritans among us will be happy to know that th e second and thir d floors are empty , an d tha t the onl y thing on e can do a t Che z Dehno is enjoy a fine meal. There ar e reasons thi s long-standing restauran t stil l attract s loyal patrons: the menu features solid French food, the service is attentive, and the atmosphere an d sound level are civilized—save for th e lunch hour, when the two-Martini crow d lets loose. Rumour has it that Chez Delrno's frequent customers are given preferential treatment, but in my experience, one couldn't ask for better service or a warmer welcome. The red-jackete d waiters are seasoned professionals whose serving skills leave little to be desired . You won't fin d Chilea n sea bass or grille d swordfis h a t Chez Delmo. Things are kept simple here—classic French all the way, with cooking term s like "rneuniere," "St. Jacques," and "Nantua" sprinkled throughout the menu. What bette r wa y is there to star t a meal in a French seafoo d restaurant tha n wit h oysters ? The six lovely specimens serve d at Chez Delmo arrive on crushed ice and are fresh, plump, and briny. The large, thin slice of smoked salmon is also excellent, but consid ering that many restaurants ar e now smoking their own salmon, it's difficult to wax enthusiastic over this offering . The fish soups—clam chowde r an d lobste r bisque—prov e that seasonin g is the fort e o f this kitchen . All have a wonderfu l depth o f flavou r an d ar e expertl y salted . Th e lobste r bisqu e i s creamy, hot, an d filled with chunk s o f lobste r meat . Th e cla m chowder is chock full of clams, but it should be thicker to earn the name chowder.

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Main courses , similarly, are classic French favourites . Two of the house specialties, gratine'ed shrimps Nantua and Dover sole, could not be more different. The shrimp dish consists of the small variety of th e crustacea n smothere d i n a cup's wort h o f thic k bechamel-based sauce. The generous portion is barely gratineed and the rich and delicious sauce, which is enriched with crayfish , Cognac, and cream, completely overwhelms the shrimp . In complete contras t i s the Dove r sole meuniere. This lightly floured fis h i s sauteed i n butte r an d serve d with brown-butte r sauce o n th e side . Quickly an d expertl y boned a t the table , the fine, firm-texture d specime n is cooked to perfection, offering delicate flavou r an d a melt-in-me-mouth texture. Believ e it or not , the trout, prepared i n the same manner, is even better. The rosy flesh is tender and succulent, and the taste divine . The grilled se a scallops coul d us e a bit o f love and attention . The six chunky mollusks are properly grilled and tender, but they sit naked, crying out for sauce. The one offered, a ramekin of that onion- and caper-laden mayonnaise, tartar sauce, is about as heavy as it gets. Another choic e from th e grill, halibut, must be popular wit h weight-watching patrons fo r it's also serve d sans sauce. But thi s light and tender fish doesn't need any. The accompanying vegetables—fine French green beans and carrots—are perfectly cooked in the al dente, nouvelle cuisine style. The homemade French fries are thin, crisp, and tasty—the real McCoy. A word of caution: Don't be tempted by the small selection of meat dishe s o n thi s menu . Th e steak s can be fatty , sinewy , an d tough, even if the accompanying pepper sauce is just as it should be—Cognac-enhanced and creamy, with a sweet, potent pepper flavour. The desserts here are run-of-the-mill samples from the mos t basic French repertoir e an d ar e a bit o f a letdown. Th e crem e caramel is awfully sweet, the apple tart has a soggy crust, and th e profiteroles ar e made with choux pastry that lacks the desirabl e crunchiness. You might prefe r t o ski p desser t altogethe r an d savour the delicious coffee instead . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Enzo Bertoli.

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DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The restauran t i s divided int o two rooms, each with a different mood and decor. The front room , with its two New York-style mahogany bars, is masculine-Anglourban, while the dining room behind is old-fashioned-feminineFrench-country. At lunchtime, many businessmen an d lawyers from th e nearby office tower s and the Palais de Justice eat at the bar, preferring the clubb y atmospher e u p front . At dinner, th e dimly lit dining room, with its high-backed wooden chairs, flowerprint wallpaper , pal e yello w wainscoting, and antiqu e servin g platters propped aroun d its perimeter, has a decidedly romantic, Old World ambience. WINE LIST • The single-pag e win e lis t offer s favourite s fro m Bordeaux, th e Loir e Valley, Alsace, and Burgundy . One goo d choice, Sancerre, not only provides good value, but also goes well with most fish dishes. DON'T MISS • The oysters, the lobster bisque, the halibut, and the sole or trout meuniere. WORDS TO THE WISE • While some may welcome Chez Delmo's old-fashioned style, those who favour more experimental and adventurous cuisine are likely to find it a bit too conservative. Whatever th e case , fish lovers shoul d giv e Chez Delmo a try. Go for lunch, find a seat between two lawyers at the bar, enjoy the lobster bisque, and soak up the soul of Old Montreal. CHEZ DELMO 211-215 Rue Notre Dame West (near St. Francois Xavier) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514 ) 849-4061 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2.-30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.- 10 P.M., Tuesday to Sunday Wheelchair access : Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $4.75-$14.75; main courses, $15.75-$29.95; desserts, $4.75-$5.25

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CHEZ L'EPICIE R SNAPSHOT • One o f Montreal's mor e fashionabl e restaurants , this establishment bills itself as a restaurant/bar/gourmet grocery store—hence the name, Chez L'Epicier. Chef and owner Laurent Godbout aim s to modernize th e classics . His menu feature s inventive fusio n cuisin e presente d wit h flair . Th e award-winnin g decor is young, modern, and beautifully suited to the restaurant's classic, old-stone-house setting . Another dra w is the impressive and fairly priced international win e list. On most nights, the place is packed with branche locals. Reservations are a must. THE BI G PICTUR E » Chez L'Epicie r is a restauran t tha t dis plays a great spirit of creativity. When this Old Montreal hot spo t opened, innovatio n seeme d it s raison d'etre . One tast e of chef Laurent Godbout' s "gastronomic divertissements " prove d yo u were i n th e hand s o f a chef i n dee p experimenta l mode. Yet in those early days, creativity—-not taste—seemed to get the better of Godbout . An d lik e its young chef , Che z L'Epicier's wait staf f seemed eager, yet unfocused. Fortunately, good restaurant s often improve , an d that' s th e case with Chez L'Epicier. Perusing the menu while nibbling a n amuse-bouche consist ing of a cracker cone topped with a scoop of silky mousse de volaille, one can't help but marve l at Godbout's divers e selections . Fusion touches are evident, but what strikes me most is the num ber of flavour enhancers . Words like ginger, lemongrass, pineapple, roaste d garlic , wild mushrooms , fres h herbs , vinegars, oils, reductions, an d broths immediatel y se t the taste buds a-tingling. There's no pussyfooting around with this brazen lineup. Though Godbout' s us e of aromatics is not new , the beautiful way in which h e assembles them certainl y is. Artistic plate pre sentations hav e been relegated to the sidelines lately in favour of bold, unfussy assemblies . Godbout ha s set the presentatio n ba r high once again. And his food tastes as good as it looks.

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Despite thei r pedestrian reputation, parsnips are all the rage these days. Godbout uses their nutty/earthy flavour to great effect in a parsnip potage swirled with brown butter, orange caramel, string beans, and ginger chips. A mouthful of the soup shared with a tidbit of the ginger is wonderful. A burst of juicy sweetness from one of the segments of orange is an even greater pleasure. Beef tartare laced with truffle oil and mixed with a wild mushroom marmalade is another wow. The minced beef is melting and rich, and all that wild mushroom flavour adds a welcome boost of luxury. Also enticing is the snail shepherd's pi e blanketed i n a celery root pur£e spiked with roaste d garlic , the whole topped wit h a quenelle of parsley pesto and surrounded by a pool of herb juice dotted with lobster oil. It may sound like a cacophony of ingredients, but the end result is light and fresh, with that lovely herbal taste of spring. Compared to the pretty starters, main courses take a simpler, more masculin e approach . Chilean se a bass (a.k.a . Patagonian toothfish) i s served on a rice cake with a fresh herb broth an d a sprinkling of coral-coloured Hawaiian salt. The filet is generous and the alabaster flesh is moist, with a mild flavor and pleasantly firm texture. A hulking, pan-fried veal chop is enhanced with a sherry vinegar sauce and a tumbling of glazed radishes. Served alongside are feather-light parsnip croquettes, and a slice of roasted onion imbued with the deep purple sauce. The only slight disappointmen t i s the roaste d file t mignon . Although the beef is excellent, the accompaniments, a tasteless carrot galette and a side of lackluster sliced potatoes served in broth, fall flat . Desserts include three amusing creations: a foursome of creme brulees (lemon, lavender, Grand Marnier, and chocolate), whitechocolate tortellini, and a faux club sandwich. The crem e bruMes are the bes t of the lot . Th e tortellini are filled with liquid white chocolate and caramel, and sprinkled with caramelized pistachios frosted with fleur de sel. Though the concept is interesting and each component satisfying , the mixture of flavours never really takes flight.

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The club sandwich, made of white sheet cake, dark chocolat e ganache, sliced strawberries, and basil leaves, is good fun—espe cially with its sides of faux French fries (deep-fried pineapple sticks coated in cornmeal), and coleslaw (ribbons of honeydew melon) . Though i t coul d almos t pas s fo r rea l McCoy, this "sandwich" turns out to be all gimmick, with little flavour . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Laurent Godbout . DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The shelves near the entrance are stocked with esoteri c gourmet condiment s suc h as Hawaiian sea salt, lavish Italian jams, and Godbout's homemade lobster oil. The decor, showcased in two high-ceilinged rooms with large picture windows, thick stone walls, chicken-wire-wrapped light fixtures, and pillars painted swimming-poo l blue , is a winning jumble of modern an d old-fashioned . Origina l touche s includ e menu s printed o n smal l grocery bags, bread served in tin buckets , an d lemon-topped, salt-fille d aluminu m containers on every table. WINE LIST • Godbout's wife , Marie-Helene Desjardins, has compiled a selectio n tha t woul d b e the env y of an y restaurateur . Though th e cellar stocks some 2,00 0 bottles (most privately imported), this list isn't about quantity, but quality at all price points. Adding further seriousnes s to the wine service is a sommelier t o help guide your choices. DON'T MIS S • The soups, the snail shepherd's pie, the beef tartare, the veal chop, and the crerne brulees. WORDS TO THE WISE • Chez L'fipicier i s a gutsy little restau rant. In the past, the sense of experimentation mad e me feel like a participant in a clinical trial. Godbout's cuisine has now come into its own. Old-fashioned restaurant-goers may find an evening here disorienting. The rest of us should pul l up a chair, order of f the paper-bag menu, select a nice wine, and prepare to be amazed.

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CHEZ L'EPICIER 311 Rue St. Paul East (near St. Claude) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514) 878-2232 Web site: www.chezlepicier.com Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 p.M.-lO P.M., daily Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $4-$18; main courses, $19-$34; desserts, $7-$9

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CHEZ NOESE R SNAPSHOT • In many respects, Chez Noeser is a restaurant like no other. It resembles European country hotel-restaurants oper ated by couples, like the Noesers , who understand th e essentia l connection between service and cuisine. An evening here has the intimate feel of a large dinner party, especially as the Noesers' two daughters are involved, taking orders, clearin g plates, and doin g their best to match their mother h i the charm department. The menu is French, and true to French form, it shuns the a la carte format i n favo r o f a monthly set menu. Diners can expand th e five-course menu to eight courses by adding such items as a second appetizer, a granite, or a cheese plate. THE BIG PICTURE • With a lilting Acadian accent , Ginett e Noeser flits from table to table, working the room like a politician at a pancake breakfast. In all of three minutes she welcomes diners, runs down a brief history of the restaurant, and demonstrate s a tricky napkin-folding technique. What a pro! Chez Noeser is a bring-your-own-wine restaurant, and mos t patrons arriv e with a good bottle i n tow. "Our goal," says Mme.

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Noeser, "is to offer the finest cuisine of any bring-your-own wine establishment i n o r aroun d Montreal . Many people arriv e with Champagne, rare wines, and half bottles of port. We do our ut most to pair them with the best food and service." For th e pas t 1 4 years, Ginette an d Deni s Noeser have been doing just that. Due to the focus on seasona l cuisine, the men u changes monthly. A recent first course included a choice of marinated Atlanti c salmo n o r guine a hen-liver pate \ Th e salmon , served thinly sliced atop a bed o f greens, was silky, melting, and not i n the leas t bi t fishy . Th e pate' was rich, smooth, and nicely seasoned—everything a good pat£ should be. After the starters came a splendid carrot soup with orange and ginger, which was sweet, peppery, fruity, and lush. Next up, those gourmet big hitters: lobster and foie gras. The lobster "gateau, " served with a tarragon cream sauce, was one of the evening's only disappointments. More of a mousse, really, the cake was fluffy, fishy, and creamy—not the three most appealing qualities in a seafood dish. The foi e gra s came through wit h flyin g colours . Paired with sauteed peaches, the liver was crisp on the outside and just cooked through on the inside—simple yet so satisfying. After th e first three dishes , one ca n either freshe n u p with a few spoonful s of tequila an d watermelo n granite, or delv e right into the main courses, which include rack of lamb or ostrich. For those not up for red meat, there's also an excellent seared salmon. It's nice to see ostrich making its way onto menus again; after a fals e start , i t appear s t o b e tiptoein g back int o th e spotlight . Though often tasteles s and chewy , this ostrich meat is as tasty as deer, if a bit tougher . The rac k of lamb i s another success . The portion is generous—five thick chops—and the meat, cooked to the ideal rose, is tender. Unlike you r average after-dinner salad mad e o f Californi a mesclun mix dressed with an insipid vinaigrette, Noeser's offerin g includes cris p green s an d a lusty Caesa r dressing. The chees e plate, comprising both local and French varieties, is a good choice for those looking to indulge a bit further . Dessert i s the onl y cours e that make s one lon g fo r th e a la carte format . Th e feuillet e o f berries with Chantill y crea m an d

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homemade mapl e ic e cream wa s okay, but yo u migh t mis s in dulging i n somethin g more , suc h a s chocolate, nuts , vanilla, o r caramel. Limiting dessert to one choice is just no fun in my book. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Denis Noeser. WINE LIST • Bring your own wine. DON'T MISS • The menu changes monthly. Cal l in advance for menu information or consult the restaurant's We b site. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Located adjacent to the Richelieu River on the main floor of the Noeser family home, the restaurant comprises a series of small, formal rooms (rarely used in summer), a patio out back dotted with mature trees, and a four-season covered terrace connecting th e two. WORDS TO THE WISE • Chez Noeser is a long drive from downtown Montreal . I f you're plannin g o n indulgin g heavily , call in advance an d Chez Noeser can provide limousin e servic e to an d from the restaurant. There are also beautiful rooms on the second floor available for the night. CHEZ NOESER 236 Rue Champlain Location: St. Jean sur Richelieu Telephone: (450 ) 346-0811 Web site: www.noeser.com Open: 5:30 P.M.-10 P.M., Thursday to Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: Major cards Price range: Three-course menu, $29-$36; Five- to eight-cours e menu, $39.50-$57.50

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CHEZ OUEU X SNAPSHOT • Housed in a building that date s fro m 1862 , Chez Queux may appear to be another of Old Montreal's dusty French restaurants, a place fo r tourist s wh o wan t thei r peppe r steak s flambeed tablesid e and their waiters to wear tuxedos. You'll find both at Chez Queux, but onl y the most cynical gourmets will fail to notic e thi s restaurant' s char m an d savoi r faire. Servic e is superb, the wine list is impressive, and the delicious, old-fashioned French food makes all that fussy fusion foo d look downright silly. At Chez Queux, you can relax in your high-backed chair, peruse the retro-luxe menu, soak up the chateau-like decor, and prepare yourself fo r a night o f pampering . I n summertime , conside r a meal on th e terrace , with it s superb views of the Ol d Port an d Place Jacques Cartier. THE BIG PICTURE • People who dine ou t frequentl y often de velop a pushy attitude towards a restaurant's wait staff. They hand the maitre d' their coats before someone offers to take them. Once seated, they blurt ou t a request fo r a cocktail, scan the men u i n seconds, reques t a n updat e o n th e specials , fill their ow n wine glasses, and ask that the bill be brought along with dessert. All in all, they do their utmost to take control of the evening rather than let the waiter dictate the pace of events. But can we blame them? Though the level of service in Montreal restaurants is generally quite high, there's n o denyin g tha t many waiters are losing control of their customers. Not so at Chez Queux. The last time I dined ther e I encountered a waiter who controlled ever y aspect of the evening , transforming what coul d have been just another old-fashioned Frenc h dinner into one of my most memorable experiences of the year. The waiter i n question wa s as unassuming a s they come . He looked like an easy target for my foul mood. He inquired in a soft voice if we'd like an aperitif. "Perrier," I said. He returned with the

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Perrier an d aske d if we'd be intereste d i n a taste o f Beaujolai s Nouveau. Okay, I nodded, but only one glass to share. He was back, seconds later, with three glasses and poured a generous half glass in each . "What th e .. . , " I whispered unde r m y breath before I heard him say, "Here you are, one glass for three." Nice touch. Our orders were taken in due time. I asked about the chateaubriand fo r two . He described the preparatio n o f this thic k beef filet in detail and offered t o find a cut that would serve the three of us (how accommodating). I quizzed him about the catch of the day. Tuna, he answered . Prepared how? Grilled. Then cam e the ultimate test: wine consultation. Havin g scanned Che z Queux's ample, award-winning list, I knew that the under-$50 selections paled next to the impressive, three-digit Burgundies and Bordeaux. I asked for something good—something interesting—for no more than $50. He suggested a very special Bordeaux for $45. A good Bordeaux for $45? I hesitated and offere d t o u p m y rate to $60. He returned wit h th e starters : shellfish bisque , sweetbreads, and a goat's cheese salad. "Where's the wine?" I whispered to my companions through clenched teeth. Just then, I heard the gentle pop of a cork and my glass being filled for tasting. Lo and behold, it was the $45 Bordeaux—and it was delicious. "I saved you a few dollars," the waiter whispered to m y dining companion s with a knowing smile. After th e win e episode, the ma n coul d d o n o wron g in my books. I sat back, relaxed, and enjoyed the food . The bisque was wonderful: light in texture, bursting with rich shellfish flavour , an d withou t a trace o f bitterness. Th e sweetbreads wer e also divine . Served with lightl y saut£e d mache , a handful o f orang e and grapefrui t supremes, and a dribbling of citrus juice, the tw o flattene d lobe s were cris p an d assertivel y salted. The goat's cheese salad was everything a goat's cheese salad should be. The oak leaf lettuce was crunchy, fresh, and laced with a gentle vinaigrette, and the large round of goat's cheese was a variety that's neither insipid nor overly strong. The main courses were also very good. The grilled tuna, topped with a dash of pesto, was moist and cooked to the requested medium-rare. Its accompaniments include d a generous moun d

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of wild rice, carrots, and asparagus—nothin g revolutionary, yet delightful nonetheless . The Chateaubriand, dished u p tableside , was the standou t of the evening. Our waiter cut the filet mignon into six thick slices, set them o n a pool o f bearnaise sauce , and spoone d aroun d a square of dauphinoise potatoes, green beans, carrots, and asparagus. Each plate was then reheated before being set in front o f us. The rose meat was tender and ful l o f flavour, an d th e vegetables were excellent: piping hot, well seasoned, and al dente. When I inquired abou t th e chees e course, th e waite r onc e again seized the opportunity to strut his stuff. He showed up with a fine selection and, before we knew it, he started slicing away, insisting we try this and tha t with our las t few sips of wine. With aplomb, he sold u s a course we were all too ful l t o consider. But again he was right; the cheeses— a combinatio n of loca l and French varieties—really hit the spot. For dessert we couldn't resis t a simple lemon tar t (delicious) and that old French favourite, crSpes Suzette (good, if a bit bitter). IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Jean-Paul Aubry. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Chez Queux is a good-old-days French restauran t with stone - an d wood-panelle d walls , heavy drapes, thronelike chairs, heavy chandeliers, fireplaces, and re d carpeting. There's more of a perfume in the air than a crackle, and the background music is Mozart, not Madonna. WINE LIST • With ove r 300 selections to choos e from , thi s establishment ( a Wine Spectator Awar d of Excellence winner since 1996) has almost every bottle an oenophile could desire. Those on a budget are equally well served and should not hesitate to ask the waiter for suggestions within their price range. DON'T MISS « The goat' s cheese salad, the sweetbread s starter, the shellfish bisque, the Chateaubriand, the cheese course, and the lemon tart.

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WORDS TO THE WISE • Parking in this sector of Old Montreal can be trying. Your best bet is to walk or take a cab (or a caleche). Chez Queux is not the newest or hottest plac e in town, yet, with such comfortin g foo d an d confiden t service, i t show s u s ho w pleasant it can be to just let go, sit back, and be pampered. CHEZ QUEUX 158 Rue St. Paul East (near Place Jacques Cartier) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514 ) 866-5194 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.—3 P.M. (Sunday brunch); dinner, 5 p.M.-ll P.M. , daily Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major card s Price range: Starters, $4.50-$14.95; main courses, $24.95-$35; desserts, $4.75-$7

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CLEMENTINE SNAPSHOT • Driving up to Clementine' s wicker-filled porc h is sure to draw sighs of pleasure. This is a restaurant with a history of excellence . Chefs-owner s Louise and Miche l Beauln e ar e re nowned pioneer s o f regional gastronom y an d aren' t sh y about displaying their press clippings at the door. On the menu are two table d'hotes, a short a la carte selection, and a menu gastronomique. There's even a page entitled "Dishes and specialties for which we have been renowned for 25 years." THE BIG PICTURE • Clementine i s a restaurant wher e luxur y takes a back seat to hominess. Although it's all quite formal, we're in the country here, which makes the city's stresses feel miles away. Appetizers include a lobster mouss e tha t i s layered, lasagnastyle, between thin sheets of pasta. The flavours are seductive and

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much enhance d by the accompanyin g velvety coral-pink sauce . There's also a seafood bisque and that ubiquitous Quebec favourite, foie gras. Skip the bisque in favour of the foie, which is smooth and cooke d just so (crisp on the outside and trembling within). However, the accompaniments, lettuce and sauteed apples, might leave you wanting. Not to be missed is the boned quai l o n a pepper coulis . The bird's skin is crisp, the meat is succulent, and the whole is enlivened with five-spice powder and sweet red peppers. I'm sorr y to see that the mushrooms served under a ruffle of phyllo pastry didn't include more wild varieties, but onc e I taste the delicious Port sauce served alongside, I'm happy there were no strong flavours to compete with the sauce. And a delicious spring roll filled with duck confit serve d with a pineapple sauc e and a brunoise of golden pineapple had me thinking chef Beaulne has a better handle on sweet and savour y combinations than many of those fusion-loving chefs downtown. Main course s include a pepper-crusted Alberta filet mignon with brandy sauce, ostrich medallions with pink peppercorns and Madeira sauce , and sweetbread s served with white-truffl e tagli atelle. The beef and ostrich are excellent, but the sweetbreads are a knockout. With a texture as melting as hot foi e gras, and an accompanying truffle-enhanced sauc e creamy enough to coat every strand of pasta, this dish shows off Clementine's cuisin e at its best. Desserts aren't nearl y as sophisticated a s the savour y dishes. They're also on the sweet side. A butterscotch sundae with toasted pecans, a light-as-a-cloud meringu e cake with raspberr y coulis, and a pineapple meringue cake with more butterscotch sauc e will no doubt remind you of the desserts featured in food magazines in the fifties . Service is enthusiastic and friendly. Look for Mme. Beaulne to make a n appearance . She'l l be th e tal l blond e wearin g white gloves and a chef's jacket—a bit of theatre that adds a touch of class to an elegant establishment. IN TH E KITCHE N • Chef s an d owner s Louis e an d Miche l Beaulne.

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WINE LIST • The wine list is pricey, but there are many selections under $50 , and a good choice of half bottles. DON'T MISS • The lobster lasagna, the quail with pepper coulis, the sweetbreads, and the meringue cake. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Set in a n ol d Victoria n house , Clementine's dinin g roo m is divided betwee n tw o parlours o n the main floor. Though the decor is fussy an d feminine, with oil paintings, lace curtains, Tiffany-styl e lamps , an d chintz-covere d chairs, the spac e is inviting, offering a welcome change to thos e sleek blon d wood-filled restaurant s downtow n wit h techn o music blarin g in th e background . Her e you'll b e appropriatel y greeted with the melodious sounds of Swan Lake. WORDS TO THE WISE • Clementine i s a restaurant I wouldn' t hesitate to recommend to anyone looking for a civilized gourmet experience or a romantic meal out of town. But take note: Though the restaurant's much publicized claim to fame is regional cuisine, little o n th e men u seem s distinctl y Quebecois . T o me, this i s a classical French restaurant, CLEMENTINE 398 Chemin Main Location: Hudso n Telephone: (450) 458-8181 Web site: www.clementinerestaurant.com Open: 5:30 P.M.-10 P.M., Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Credit cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $9-$10; main courses, $21-$34; desserts, $8; five-course tasting menu, $61; three-course tabl e d'h6te, $22-$40

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CONTEMPORARY

CUBE SNAPSHOT • Cube is one of the most interesting an d ambitiou s restaurants to appear in a long while. Quebec chef Claude Pelletier (formerly of Mediterraneo) is an innovator whose following among foodies i s well deserved. Ingredients are an obviou s inspiration , and Pelletie r i s keen on showin g their man y sides. The seasonal menu changes frequently, and the lunch menu is revamped daily. Despite the fashionable crowd, the atmosphere is unpretentious . THE BIG PICTURE • The rumour s abou t Cub e hi t th e street s about six months before it opened in July 2001. Unlike the advance hype for hot spots like Queue de Cheval and Newtown, Cube generated a flood of local foodie gossip, focusing on the comings and goings of Montreal chef (and Cube partner) Claude Pelletier and his plans for a new modern restauran t in Old Montreal's oh-so chic Hotel St. Paul. So, with all the talk, the place would be either a revelation or a letdown. But fans of Pelletier's modern American cuisine, who were giddy with anticipation, needn' t have worried. Cube is a winner. Reading ove r the menu , on e sense s that thi s i s no repea t of Pelletier's pas t performances . At Mediterraneo, Pelletie r was revered for turning out hundreds of plates for a hip crowd, perhaps more draw n to the restaurant's atmospher e and location tha n to the ultimate gourmet experience. At Cube, his market-based cui sine is pared-down, bold, and perfectly in keeping with the minimalist decor . In this bleak setting, it provides all the colou r an d shows a newfound maturity—an intellectual bent—based on his curiosity, technique, and experimental nature . Salmon thre e ways (marinated, tartare, carpaccio), veal three ways (sweetbreads , braised breast, tournedos Rossini) , and pan seared duc k or goose foie gra s with Grann y Smith appl e (sauce, sorbet, matchstick slices ) feature an ingredient theme with preparation variations . The salmon starte r is dominated b y a marvellously fres h an d vibran t tartare ; on e migh t gladl y trade i n th e

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marinated salmon or carpaccio for a full plate of the stuff. On the veal plate, the crisp sweetbreads stand head and shoulders above the tournedos Rossini and the braised meat. Not that the tournedos topped with a foie gra s and truffle crouton , and the melting braised meat sweetened with raisins aren't delicious—the y certainly are. It's just that the sweetbreads are even better, and two bites aren't enoug h when you've tasted sweetbread s this divine . The foi e gra s is far more successful , fo r th e main ingredient , the liver, takes the starring role, and the Granny Smith fixins provide support. And what delicious liver it is—full flavoured, without a trace of bitterness, crisp on the outside and rose' within. Pelletier's organic tomato starter features a green zebra tomato layered with buffalo Mozzarella, a cup of tomato broth with sliced tomatoes, sauteed yellow cherry tomatoes with sliced beets, and a tablespoon of tomato concasse with basil. In the middle sits an incongruous quenelle of horseradish sorbet. It's all quite nice—full marks for creativity—but everything competes for first place. Although the chef's novel approach with these threesomes is commendable, when you have a dish that works, it's nice to get your tongue around more than a few bites. The wild mushroom tart starter with truffle oil, Cheddar, and arugula features a crackerlike tart shell filled with a generous portion of sauteed portobello, shiitake, and girolle mushrooms. The tart is set atop a few poached leeks, arugula, and baby beet leaves, the whole surrounded by an intense truffle sauce, resulting in a starter that's perfect in every way. The roasted striped bass is another good bet. The skin is fried to a crisp, the flesh is moist and melting, and the subtle flavour is ideally enhanced with a lemon and herb broth. The accompanying white cannellini beans are prepared al dente, providing a welcome contrast to the soft fish. The best dessert s ar e a caramelized banana with a chocolat e "moelleux" cake, a peanut tuile and vanilla ice cream, and another of those experimental threesomes featuring Illy coffee and Italian Domori chocolate, which includes a mocha creme brulee layered with a frothy cappucino-styl e topping, a tart fille d wit h mocha ganache, coffee-chocolate gelato , and a biscotti. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and co-owner Claude Pelletier.

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DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The style is casual-chic and dress should follow suit. The low-lit room features high ceilings, concretegrey walls, picture windows, square mirrors , thick white drapes, and enoug h sparklin g votive candles to ad d a touch o f glamour and take a minimum o f 10 years off every babe on the scene. WINE LIST • Sommelier Philipp e Boisver t started restructurin g Cube's wine list in 2002, making it more customer-friendl y with intriguing wines, many private import s (severa l exclusive) fro m small, predominantly French producers. Wines range from $36 to $1,500 with th e majorit y o f bottles hoverin g betwee n $8 0 and $100. There is an interesting selection under $55 , and an impressive number of red, white, and dessert wines available by the glass. DON'T MISS • The salmon three ways, the foie gras with Granny Smith apples , the wil d mushroo m tar t with Cheddar , an d th e home-made ice cream. WORDS TO THE WISE • Dishes tend t o be "cheffy"—the kin d of stuf f tha t sounds excitin g when conceive d in the kitchen by a bunch of keeners in aprons and funny hats, but is a bit frustrating for customer s used to the standard meat, veg, and starch combi nation. Service is friendly an d smooth, bu t waits can be long between courses. CUBE 355 Rue McGill (corner Place d'Youville, in the H6tel St. Paul) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514) 876-2823 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:00 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.- 11 P.M., daily; brunch, 11:3 0 A.M.-2 P.M., Saturday and Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $9-$99 (caviar); main courses, $23-$39; desserts, $8-$14; seven-course tasting menu, $74 (about $120 with wines)

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ITALIAN

DA EMM A SNAPSHOT • There are beautiful restaurants, dreary restaurants, old-fashioned restaurants , an d modern, minimalis t restaurants . Da Emma doesn't fit into any of these categories. Rather, it offer s the uniqu e combinatio n o f authentic Nother n Italia n comfor t food in a "cool" basement setting. One gets the feeling one is part of a dinner party set in a fabulous apartment where, behind the kitchen door, mama's doing all the cooking. Service provides just the right balance between Italian charm and professional polish. The wine list is impressive, with a wide selection at many price points. THE BIG PICTURE • Home-cooked meals—especiall y Italian ones—are the ones many of us find mos t appealing. Restaurant food is another story. It's seared, broiled, charred, carved, blanched, grilled, stir-fried, blowtorched, and caramelized. It's flashy fare— often exciting—yet often prepared without the love and attention of the handmad e pastas , hearty ragus, slow-braised meats , and simple vegetable casseroles of home. For most of us, however, eating out is about more than just good food. There's the setting, the service, the wine list, and the ambience—factors that rarely come into play around the family table. An interesting experiment would be to transfer home cooking into a magnificent restaurant setting. The closest you'll com e to that in Montreal is the Ol d Montreal Italian restaurant Da Emma. Befitting th e home y atmosphere , th e waiter s hav e a way of making all feel welcome. At the outset of the meal, one will arrive at your table with delicious bruschetta: grilled bread, salted diced tomato, and virgin olive oil. He'll then bring over a small blackboard that lists the menu in Italian. While translating the dishes —six appetizers, three pastas, and a wide selection of meats and fish—he migh t jus t personalize th e selection s with a runnin g commentary suc h as , "The fettuccin i with porcin i i s my dad' s

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favourite," or, "The meatloaf is too heavy," or, "The lamb and pork dishes com e i n Flintstone-size d portions. " You'd thin k h e was talking about his own mother's cooking . An appetizer of prosciutto wit h buffalo Mozzarell a is as plain as they come, just a few paper-thin slice s of tender, if somewhat fatty, cured meat blanketing fresh Mozzarell a quarters. Although the combinatio n i s unusual, thes e first-rat e ingredient s shar e a similar meltin g qualit y tha t make s the dis h appealing . A little more daring is the standard tomat o an d Mozzarella pairing. The large round s o f ripe tomat o toppe d wit h thic k slice s of cheese have a gentle taste that's boosted b y a chiffonade o f basil and a dribbling of fruity olive oil—so simple, yet so satisfying. Da Emma's more elaborate starter s are even better. The clear fish soup filled with shreds offish an d stelline pasta has a delicate, haunting flavour . Th e octopus , strippe d o f its tentacles and cu t into thick slices, is poached i n a delicious white wine-vegetable broth. And a half portion of porcini pasta features al dente strands of fettuccini covered in a subtle crea m sauc e filled wit h saut6e d peppery porcini. The tomato-sauced pastas are less successful. A serving of veal agnolotti turns out to be a deep bowl of homemade pasta pockets drowned in a rather acidic , sluggish meat sauce. Gnocchi topped with a similar tomat o sauc e without th e mea t (pomodoro ) als o falls flat. The gnocchi are excellent—light and spongy—but their neutral flavour call s for a more complex sauce that doesn't gro w tiresome afte r th e first few mouthfuls. Save for on e of f note, th e straccett i rughett a ( a hot an d col d mix o f arugula and blan d bee f strip s saut6e d wit h onion s an d white wine), meat and fish choices turn up consistent winners. All are shining examples of Italian home cooking, with fine ingredients treated in a pure and unaffected manner . The grilled salmon steaks are moist o n the inside and ever so lightly crusted o n the outside . Oss o buco is prepared northern style, with the veal shanks braised in white wine until meltingl y tender, and it's served with a plateful of peas and sliced carrots. A side o f roas t sucklin g pi g arrive s in a large, glistening , honeycoloured slab . It's all there: the loin, three chops, and the liver—

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an anatomy lesson o n a plate. The meat, which requires a bit of patience to carve into bite-size pieces, is both flavourful an d succulent. The bits around th e bone ar e especially tasty. Take note , however: Despite the Italian custom of small meat portions, this dish is generous enough to share. Desserts include a tiramisu with the lingering anise flavour of Sambucca. The panna cotta is a variation o f the classic cream, as it's cooked , crem e caramel-style , on a layer of liquid caramel . The pineapple sorbe t i s a bit insipid , an d it s consistenc y is off puttingly crusty. Coffee in all its forms—espresso, decaf, cappuccino, filtered—is excellent . IN THE KITCHEN • Chefs an d co-owner s Emm a and Lore Risa. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The basement setting is eclectic: stone walls, cement pillars, a black wooden floor, wooden wine coolers, and white linen-covered tables. Dean Martin tunes play softly in the background. The fetching Italian waiters, clad headto-toe i n black, hair slicked back a la Rudolph Valentino, aren't too hard on the eyes either. WINE LIST • Da Emma's wine list comprises an impressive array of fine Italian wines and enough inexpensive bottles to keep everyone happy. DON'T MIS S • The Mozzarella salads, the grille d salmon , th e suckling pig, the tiramisu, and the panna cotta. WORDS TO THE WISE • All in all, a meal here has plenty to offe r in term s of how close it come s to th e simplicit y o f top-qualit y Italian hom e cooking . Fo r those of us not fortunat e enoug h t o have Italian mothers, Da Emma provides a warm and satisfyin g experience—the ideal spot to come home to.

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DA EMMA 777 Rue de la Commune West (near Prince) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514) 392-1568 Open: Lunch, 11 A.M.-2 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.—11 P.M., Monday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $4-$19; main courses, $14-$34; desserts, $4-$10

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DELFINO SNAPSHOT • When was the last time a chef came to your table to pop open a scallop? For that matter, how many chefs are buying scallops in the shell? Very few, except for the one at Delfino, a 26seat neighborhoo d restauran t tha t offer s simpl y prepared , finflapping fresh fish and seafood at reasonable prices (but don't get too excited about the scallops; the menu is seasonal and changes daily). Add to that a reasonably priced wine list and an outdoor terrace, and the resul t is one o f the mos t appealin g seafood restaurants in town. THE BIG PICTURE • Delfino is a seafood restaurant in its purest form. Fish lovers are in for a treat, for few other restaurants offe r such fresh fare. Chef George Georgi buys only the best, changing his daily menu accordingly . So if the scallop s aren't perfect that day, he might buy mahimahi, and if he does, you're in luck—it's sublime. Starters provide a clue to the chef's Mediterranean background. Kalamata olives , hummus, taramosalata , an d pit a brea d arriv e gratis at the outset of the meal. Following that there's saganaki, a

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Greek specialty consisting o f a thick slice of fried Kasser i cheese sprinkled with lemon juice. The Italian/Mediterranean favourite of grilled zucchini, mushrooms, and peppers could use a few more minutes on the grill. The leek soup tastes more of fennel than leek and i s underseasoned. I n complet e contras t i s the velvet y clam chowder. This French-style chaudiere (as opposed t o the thicker New England chowder) ha s a n intense , sweet , clam-flavoured base an d i s filled wit h a mixture o f onions , potat o cubes , an d clams. Delicious. Appetizers play no more than a supporting role at Delfino and are easil y forgotten when th e fis h arrives . Served grilled, Caju n style, o r saute'e d (Provencal - o r meuniere-style) , al l fish an d seafood dishes are accompanied by a timbale of delicate Basmati rice aromatized with star anise, a row of crisp French green beans, and a mound o f sauteed spinach . Excellen t homemade Frenc h fries are also available. Cajun mahimah i i s blackened an d coate d i n subtl e smoky flavoured spices . Though simila r to red meat in appearance an d thickness, the firm white flesh is moist and flavourful, withou t a trace of unpleasant fishiness—th e hallmar k of freshness. A large filet of loup de mer is equally moist and has that sweet sea flavour. Every mouthful is as light as a cloud. I know of no other restaurant serving this quality of fresh Atlantic scallops. Seven plump specimens , reaching u p to a n inch and a half i n diameter , ar e served grille d wit h n o mor e tha n a spoonful o f extra-virgin olive oil. They are hot, tender, and sweet enough to stick to your teeth. When available, the Provencal-style black sea bass should no t be missed/This popula r America n saltwate r fish is lightly pan fried and moistened wit h just enough garli c butter-wine sauce to enliven the unctuous flesh without overwhelming it. For dessert , th e tart e Tati n i s good , i f hardl y glamorou s appearance-wise. The chocolate mouss e is pleasant, but i t would benefit fro m a better-quality chocolate . Th e cheesecake may be the best choice here. Service is puzzling. Though competent , the waiters often seem hurried an d indifferent . That said , Delfino i s a restaurant on e

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could frequent . Recently, yellowtail, Mediterranean bass, and the chef's favourite, grilled pompano, were on the menu. The Cajun red snapper also sounded promising, an d if one is feeling macho, there's always the grilled mackerel. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner George Georgi. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • This casual restaurant i s tucked away on a residential street in the chic banlieu of Outremont. The Art Deco decor is as simple as the food, with dark-caramel wood panels, large mirrors, and dim lighting accented by flickering votive candles on every table. There's a pleasant feeling of intimacy in a space this petite, but noise levels can sometimes be a problem. WINE LIS T • Though short , th e win e lis t offer s terrifi c value ; most of the wines are sold at no more than twice their retail price. The Sancerr e or Chabli s Premie r Cr u ar e a perfec t matc h fo r seafood. DON'T MISS • The grilled octopus, the scallops, the loup de mer, the Cajun mahimahi, and the catch of the day. WORDS T O TH E WIS E • Landlubber s an d vegetarian s b e warned: There ar e no nonseafoo d items on thi s menu. If you're one of the many skeptical Montrealers who believe scales are for musicians, I can't think of a better place to take the plunge. DELFINO 1231 Avenue Lajoie (near Bloomfield) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 277-5888 Open: 6 P.M.-10 P.M., Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major card s Price range: Starters, $4-$12; main courses, $18-$26; desserts, $3.50-$5

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CONTEMPORARY

DERRIERE LES FAGOT S SNAPSHOT • Derriere les Fagots is set in an impressive, renovated house on the main street in Ste. Rose, Laval. Much effort ha s obviously been poured into this enterprise. Adding to the sophistication is the young wait staff, all of whom are friendly, confident , and, most importantly, well informed. Considering the quality of ingredients, prices are reasonable. The style of cuisine is modern, with French and Italian influences. If you're looking for a deal, opt for th e table d'hdte, which includes soup, appetizer, entre'e, and dessert for a mere $15 above the cost of your main course. THE BIG PICTURE • Dinner at Derriere les Fagots always begins with a n amuse-bouche , ofte n somethin g a s lovely as a minced duck tartare on a homemade taro chip. This kitchen doesn't skimp on luxury. For instance, the velvety and light—almost frothy—-cream of cauliflower soup is enriched with truffl e oil . You'll fin d equall y sophisticate d flavour s i n starters such as frito misto , prosciutto and fennel salad, foie gras au torchon, and snails with marrow. The frito misto includes battered an d deep-frie d scallops, shrimp , calamari , an d zucchini slices serve d with a ramekin o f spic y garlic mayonnaise (ai'oli) . The fennel and prosciutto salad is tossed with pine nuts, tomatoes, and drie d an d fres h figs. Though the man y tastes and texture s meld together well (the prosciutto, with its intense, full flavour is especially wicked), the portion's a bit too large, more like a maincourse lunch salad than a dinner appetizer. In shar p contras t come s th e elegan t foi e gras . Three large rounds of buttery liver are sprinkled with fleu r de sel and served with green beans and meaty morsels of gesiers confit. This is cold foie gra s at its best: rich, slightly sweet, and nary a vein in sight. The escargots with beef marrow pairs two classic French ingredi-

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ents not ofte n associate d with each other. Yet it works. Served in and around a tall marrow bone with a pool of reduced wine sauce, the snails are resilient and the marrow adds a slippery, gelatinous contrast. Barbecued veniso n rib s offe r anothe r interestin g twis t o n a classic. However, thes e tw o rack s ar e glaze d with a sauc e that, though tangy, lacks the combination o f sweetness, fruitiness, and smokiness one expects with barbecue. Served with pont-neuf potatoes (the largest French fries you'll ever encounter) an d a salad of tatsoi, Granny Smith apples, and Savoy cabbage, this dish stil l gets high marks for effort . A rack of Quebec pork is served with clams, chorizo sausage, buttery white polenta, and a side of sauteed portobello an d black trumpet mushrooms. Again, there's plenty going on here, with the strong flavours of the sausage and the trumpet mushrooms dominating. The best of the main courses is the roasted duck magret served with confit and a Marsala sauce. The duck is tender, rose, and no t a bit fatty , and the confit is melting. Best of all, the olives, asparagus, and vegetable accompaniments stay in the background. For dessert , try the anise-flavoure d creme brulee. It's lighte r than most and has the ideal creamy center and crisp and golde n topping. Another favourit e i s a sandwich o f caramelized phyllo pastry with vanilla custar d crea m an d fres h berries . Fo r those willing to linger over that last glass of wine, there's also a fine selection of Quebec and French cheeses. Service a t Derrier e les Fagots is on a par wit h an y four-star restaurant. Wine and water glasses are continuously refilled , and every crumb is discreetly swept away. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Danny St-Pierre. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The entrance to Derriere les Fagots is wide and inviting—like a hotel lobby—with an intimate bar to the right . Two large, high-ceilinged dinin g room s mak e u p th e rest o f the mai n floor. The seating is comfortable (th e tables are huge!), the lights are low, and sensual jazzy music plays softly in

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the background. Heavy red chenille drapes line the windows, and colourful oil paintings adorn the walls. WINE LIST • The wine list is loaded with a wide-ranging selection of adventurous, food-friendly bottles, with the added bonus of all wines under $50 being available by the glass. Don't hesitat e to turn to the staff fo r consultations . DON'T MISS • The frito misto , the foi e gras, the escargot s with marrow, the roasted duck magret, the anise creme brulee, and the phyllo-and-custard mille-feuilles. WORDS TO THE WISE • Derriere les Fagots is a young restaurant with tremendous potential . These people understand the importance of detail; even the room-temperature butter comes with its own silver cloche. This is an establishment well worth the drive from downtown . Wine is taken seriousl y here, so if you're plan ning to indulge, make sure one person in your group agrees to be the designated driver. DERRIERE LES FAGOTS 166 Boulevard Ste. Rose Location: Ste. Rose, Laval Telephone: (450) 622-2522 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.- 10 P.M., Tuesday to Sunday Wheelchair access : Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $6-$15; main courses, $20-$30; desserts, $7-$9; four-course table d'h6te menu, $35-545

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FISH/SEAFOOD

DESJARDINS SNAPSHOT • A Montreal institution sinc e 1892 , this well-love d seafood restauran t i s renowned fo r it s lobster. Th e ambienc e is one of old-fashioned elegance , and the waiters are veterans who know many customers by name. No wonder Desjardins remains a popular destination for the businessman's lunch. THE BIG PICTURE • Fish has become impossibl y chic . It's th e new meat, the ne-plus-ultra item on restaurant menus. At the better establishments, one can enjoy exotic specimens, grilled to perfection, served with a stack of designer vegetables and dressed with a squirt of lemon and the best extra-virgin olive oil. Diehard fish lovers, the kind who'll eat mackerel, sardines, and monkfish liver , insist o n two conditions fo r the ultimat e piscin e experience: the fish must be incredibly fres h a s well as perfectly cooked. For this reason, many people prefer to go out to eat fish. Not only are fish dishes challenging for the home cook, but als o restaurant chef s are the ones nabbing the freshest specimens. So what of the old seafood restaurants like Desjardins? Here is an elegant establishment that still favours the lobster tanks, crab legs, and foil-wrappe d baked potatoes of the seventies. But Desjardins has also made the wise decision of adding modern dishes to its repertoire, such as grilled tuna, swordfish, and the trendiest fish favourite of recent years: sushi. The menu i s substantial, with a wide variety of fish and sea food. There's also a small selection of sushi and sashimi listed on the back of the menu, and a few meat and chicken dishes to keep the carnivores at bay. Though classica l next t o th e offering s o f som e cutting-edge Montreal sushi emporiums, the sushi and sashimi starter offers excellent value. Every bite is fresh, clean on the palate, and well seasoned, with just enough wasabi to enhance without overwhelming.

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The other starters aren't nearly as exciting. The clam chowder is watery and lacks both character and flavour. An avocado crab salad i s passable. The moules marinier e are small, undersalted, and missing the parsley or any other her b so integral to a good mariniere. Main courses fare better. The grilled tuna steak is moist, firm, and not the least bit flaky . The catch o f the day , cod, is also perfectly cooke d and ha s a wonderful creamy , melt-in-your-mouth texture—the hallmark of superfresh cod. Its flavour is so delicate, a squirt of fresh lemon nearly overwhelms the subtle taste. The seared scallops meuniere aren't as successful. The scallops are rubbery and lack sweetness, but they are saved by a pool of excellent meuniere sauce. Desjardins offers a wide selection of lobster dishes, from boiled, broiled, cardinal, and Newburg, to sashimi lobster and lobster tempura. The classic Thermidor consists o f lobster mea t in a white wine-based mushroom cream sauce topped with Parmesan cheese and gratinee d i n it s shell. The meat i s tender, not th e leas t bit rubbery, and the accompanying sauce is rich and creamy, though slightly undersalted. It's a dish fro m th e past , granted, but stil l rather nice. Desserts could use some attention. The crumbly baked cheesecake i s served with runn y homemade jam. The crem e caramel looks more like a pile of smooth vanilla cream. And a poire Belle Helene, which taste s o f store-bough t everythin g (ic e cream , poached pears, chocolate sauce), is served in a sundae boat more in keeping with the local soda fountain than an elegant restaurant like Desjardins. Service is uniformly friendly and efficient. The veteran waiters serve up not only food, but also quips, jokes, and anecdotes worthy of a Catskill comic. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Tadayuki Endo. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Unlike the townhouses that surround it on lower Rue Mackay, Desjardins looks like a Canadian national park tourist office . Th e large square dining room, with

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its cascadin g drapes , floor-to-ceilin g windows , fieldston e waEs , and kitschy chandeliers, has a cozy retro feel. One can easily imagine a group of old-style politicians at a corner table ready to cut a deal over some serious surf and turf. WINE LIST • The wine list is short and rather pricey. Unless money isn't an issue, go for the Bourgogne Aligote"—not the most scintil lating of wines, but a good all-around choic e for fish. There is also a decent white Burgundy available for $6 a glass. DON'T MISS • The lobster, the grilled fish, and the sushi. WORDS TO THE WISE • Desjardins ma y not b e the plac e fo r trend-conscious diners , but it is a lobster-lover's paradise . The nononsense food is quite good, and it's sure to impress a-fishionados of any stripe. DESJARDINS 1175 Rue Mackay (near Ste. Catherine) Location: Downtow n Telephone: (514) 866-9741 Web site: www.restaurantdesjardins.co m Open: 5 P.M. -11 P.M., Monday to Sunday Wheelchair access : Yes Reservations: Recommende d Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $4.50-$17.50; main courses, $18.95$39.50; desserts, $5

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$sss

PORTUGUESE

FERREIRA CAFE TRATTORIA SNAPSHOT • Read through the menu at Cafg Ferreira and you'll wonder wher e els e Portuguese cuisin e i s given such sta r treat ment. What customers can look forward to at this downtown hot spot i s som e o f Montreal' s mos t stylis h foo d i n a beautiful Mediterranean-style setting . Che f Marino Tavare s has adapte d many simple and traditional Portugues e dishes to today's tastes , interpreting the classics with a contemporary edge. Add to this a cosmopolitan crowd , a n enthusiasti c an d knowledgeabl e wait staff, and a comprehensive selection of Portuguese wines and rare ports, an d you have one of the city' s mos t exciting and popular restaurants. THE BIG PICTURE • The first thing to hit you at the entrance way of Ferreir a Caf e an d Trattori a (know n t o regular s as Caf e Ferreira) is the wonderfully welcoming aroma of grilled seafood. The mood her e is sophisticated, wit h bluesy background music and sof t lighting . Suave, blue-shirted waiters glide around tables filled wit h upscal e cosmopolitan type s quaffin g re d win e an d feasting on seafood. In an open kitchen on the mezzanine, chefs are busy assembling plates. Cafe Ferreir a is doing for Portuguese cuisine what Milos did for Greek—giving it style. There are plenty of meat dishes, soups, and salads, but the main attractions here are the fish and seafood specials. On most nights, customers are offered not one, but eight, "catches of the day." Start the night out with a glass of white port, the ideal match for th e salty olives and lupini beans served gratis at the outset of the meal . Appetizers include a Mediterranean favourite, grilled squid, which is served with a light tomato sauce. The flavour is fresh an d smoky, and the texture is soft, chewy , and not th e least bit rubbery.

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A chouri9O sausage, grilled an d flambee d wit h brandy at th e table, i s served o n a bed o f lime-flavoure d lentils wit h a spicy tomato sauce . This Portuguese sausage, traditionally made with smoked pork seasoned with paprika, crushed pepper, garlic, and other spices , is surprisingly fatt y and bland . Th e lime y lentil s topped with the leftove r brandy als o tast e strange . Perhap s a spicier sausage might have enlivened the dish . Considered b y many to b e Portugal' s nationa l dis h i s caldo verde, a soup consistin g of a potato-based brot h with oliv e oil , shredded kale, and a thick round of sausage. The soup is thick and the cabbage is finely sliced, but the greens are off-puttingly bitter, and, again, the sausage is bland. The best of the appetizers, and one of the most typically Portuguese, i s the grille d sardines . Dwarfin g th e minuscul e canne d variety, these four large specimens, served on a bed of arugula and sprinkled with sea salt, are moist, flaky, and pungent—simply superb. Main courses are impressive. The seafood rice (Ferreira's most popular dish) arrives at the table in a small cast-iron pot, which is uncovered to reveal clams, mussels, baby squid, small shrimp, and prawns atop plenty of white rice—the Portuguese equivalent of Spanish paella. The waiter skilfully spoons the colourful mixture onto a plate. The mollusks are perfectly cooked and seasoned and served with a n aromatic fish broth . It's al l heavenly, save for th e prawns, which can be overcooked and floury . Another potted ric e dish, duck rice, is more typical of northern Portugal , as meat i s used instea d o f seafood . Th e boneles s pieces of duck meat, served with saut£ed mushroom halves , have a deliciou s stron g an d swee t flavour . Th e accompanyin g rice, served risotto-style , is Italian Arborio, and th e mushroom s ar e shiitake. An interesting twist on tradition here: the concept is Portuguese but the ingredients are multi-ethnic . The yellowfin tun a i s the specialt y of the hous e an d doesn' t disappoint. Th e grilled slab of pink tuna is coated with white and black crushe d peppercorn s an d serve d ver y rare . Th e fish is stacked betwee n sautee d bab y pa k cho y an d a crisp galett e of shredded potatoes, and it's topped with a lively salad of diced cucumber, pineapple , an d tomatoe s wit h coriande r leave s an d

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chives. The presentation, finishe d of f with sweet-potato chips , is spectacular. The fresh, sweet accents of the salad contrast beautifully with the rich-flavoured fish and earthy galette. Desserts include a perfectly cooked miniature creme caramel, a natas tartlet with a baked custard centre (foun d i n every local Portuguese bakery), a delicate fruit tart, and a decadent chocolate pudding cake. Three homemade sorbets—mango, raspberry, and honey-orange, are flavourful, creamy, and not in the least bit icy. The enthusiasti c youn g waiters, many of whom ar e o f Por tuguese descent, not only know their way around the menu and wine list, but also seem ever-present without hovering . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Marino Tavaras. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Apart from the appetizing smell and th e crowds , what's sur e to impres s first-tim e diner s i s the decor. The room is framed by long, sunflower yellow walls and a terra cotta-tile d floor . Th e accents—a collage of broken plate s near the entrance, a stunning tile fresco of a mountaintop village behind the bar, and comfortabl e wide-backed chairs—ar e all a vivid shade of Mediterranean royal blue. WINE LIST • The wine list is faithful t o the concept, an d it's no surprise that the pages are dominated by privately imported Portuguese wines listed by region. If you need help, don't hesitate t o ask resident sommelier Alain Belanger for advice. Port connois seurs are definitely in for a treat, with bottles priced from $60 to $4,000, and a wide selection offered by the glass. DON'T MISS « The grille d squid , the grille d tuna, th e sardines , the duck or seafood rice, and the desserts. WORDS TO THE WISE • With a formul a thi s promising, Caf £ Ferreira is one of the most engagin g restaurants in Montreal. The food is not alway s rock-solid, but i t has been improving steadil y every year. Autograph seekers take note: This is a favourite haunt of visiting celebrities and movie stars.

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FERREIRA CAFE TRATTORIA

1446 Rue Peel (near de Maisonneuve) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 848-0988 Web site: www.ferreiracafe.com Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.- 11 P.M., Monday to Thursday, 5:30 P.M.11:30 P.M., Friday and Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $8-$16; main courses, $23-S45; desserts, $7-$9; table d'hote lunch menu, $18-$30

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ST6AK

GIBBYS SNAPSHOT • Gibbys is one o f Montreal's mos t popula r stea k houses, if not its most popular restaurant. The establishment's rustic Old Montreal setting, its roaring fireplaces and wood-beamed ceilings, make it a preferred destination for tourists and celebrating locals, who keep coming in droves for pickles, steaks, Monte Carlo potatoes, and delicious fresh fish. Service is friendly and efficient. Reservation s are essential, and there' s fre e vale t parking. THE BIG PICTURE • What's the most difficult reservation to get in Montreal? You'll have to plan a few weeks ahead for a weekend table at Toque!. Outremont's La Chronique can be equally trying. But considering the number of seats available, the toughest table to book in Montreal might just be at Gibbys, the Old Montreal steak house. Though gourmets wouldn't necessarily place this or any of the city's steak houses on a list of Montreal's top 1 0 restaurants, in this case the crowds do the talking. The popularity of Gibbys reaches far an d wide . It' s the numbe r on e dining destinatio n fo r many

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American and Canadian tourists, and it is loved—dearly loved— by hundreds o f locals. The winning formul a of what is arguably Montreal's most popular restaurant (now 30 years strong) is that customers are offered a fully satisfying dining experience. Gibbys aims to please—-not the foodies, perhaps, but certainl y the majority, Monsieur et Madame Tout-le-Monde. However old-fashione d the y ma y be , onio n soup , snails , shrimp cocktail, pepper steak, and cheesecake still appear popular with most people. Cholesterol watchers and calorie counters can choose from a separate fish menu that features some seven fres h specimens, from swordfis h and striped bass to salmon an d tuna, all of which are available poached with dill, grilled, or blackened with Cajun spices. Starters are an unnecessary indulgence at Gibbys, as a generous house salad is offered with every main course. But those with a hearty appetite can try the Proven9al mussels, which are broiled in the shell with garlic butter, bacon, and shallots. The mussels are plump and soft, and the garlicky sauce is delicious enough to lick off the plate. The onion soup features a light beef broth, an abundance o f caramelized onions, and the obligatory cheesy crouton raft . The shrimp bisque has a pronounced flavour and the few crustaceans strewn within are tender. Unfortunately, it has an overly thick consistency and a high cream content tha t onl y adds to it s cloying richness. At Gibbys, main courses are the raison d'etre. Those up for the ultimate carnivore experience should try the New York-cut sirloi n coated with garlic and spices and grilled medium-rare. The steak has a wonderful texture, well crusted on the outside an d tender on the inside—every bite melts in the mouth. Accompaniments include a handful of broccoli, a crumb-coated broiled tomato, and a stuffed baked potato (the renowned Monte Carlo). As an added flavour enhancement, request a side order of bearnaise, which has the correct pronounced tarragon flavour. The sauce Diane isn't in the same league as the bearnaise. This Cognac, mushroom, and cream sauce served with a filet mignon is too rich, skimpy on the Cognac, and filled with sliced Parisian

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mushrooms tha t ad d little. The accompanying French fries are equally lackluster. Surprisingly enough, one of the best main courses is the fish. The Arctic char with Cajun spices is a generous filet seasoned just this side of spicy. It's cooked to perfection—delicate, moist, and flavourful. The American-style desserts are nothing to write home about. A large slice of Key lime pie ha s a fluffy, faintly flavoure d fillin g that pales next to the tangy, custard-like filling of the real McCoy. The New York-style cheesecake is the type of cake you'd expect in a deli, not in an upscale restaurant. The hot apple "croute" consists of a puff pastry vol-au-vent shell filled with soggy saut£ed apples and an overdose of cream, whipped and iced. A large mint leaf is wedged into the mix—a futile gesture if ever there was one. Despite the lack of passion on the desser t list, Gibbys betters the competitio n i n man y other departments . Service is efficien t and refreshingl y unpretentious . Valet parking is free, an d every one from the coat-check girl to the busy hostess at the entrance is friendly and welcoming. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE« Seated in one of the restaurant' s stone-walled, low-ceilinged, wood-beamed dinin g rooms, you'l l see families with sparkling birthday cakes being photographed by waiters, and couples holding hands, soaking up the romantic candlelit atmosphere . One who cringe s at the though t o f eithe r of these scenarios might find it all a bit saccharine, but there's also a sense of fun at Gibbys, a sort of good-times gregariousness as appealing as the sight of the generous plates of food, the long-skirted waitresses, an d th e complimentar y bowl s o f dil l pickles , sour cream, and bacon bits at every table. WINE LIST • The wine list is fairly priced, with a variety of bottles from al l corners of the glob e at price points starting under $30. DON'T MISS • The Proven9a l mussels, the fish, and the steaks . Calorie counters should skip the rich sauces in favour of a Monte Carlo potato.

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WORDS TO THE WISE • Owners Gibb y an d Ala n Rosenber g have come up with a restaurant recip e that really seems to work: good food and warm service in a relaxed setting. It may take a few calls to get in, but when you do, you'll be satisfied. GIBBYS 298 Place d'Youville (near McGill) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514 ) 282-1837 Web site: www.gibbys.com Open: 5 P.M.- 11 P.M., Sunday to Friday; and 4:30 P.M.11:30 P.M., Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: Major card s Price range: Starters, $6.50-$12.75; main courses, $19.95-$49; desserts, $4.50-$7.95

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COMTIMPORARY

GLOBE SNAPSHOT • Globe has long been one of the Main's only restaurants to succeed in offering the full package: looks, action, profes sionalism, and great food. In chef David McMillan, Globe had no t only a superb cook, but also a person whose confidence and charm could rival that of any visiting celebrity. With McMillan no w focusing more of his energies across town at restaurant Rosalie, the role of chef has been passed to former sous-chef Fr£d£ric Morin. Yet the emphasis on organic and regional produce remains. With few gimmicks or flavour enhancers, chef Morin lets the quality of ingredients do the talking. In that sense, the towering platters of sublime fres h seafood—clams , oysters , mussels , scallops , an d more—best epitomize what this restaurant is all about: sophisti cated simplicity .

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THE BI G PICTURE • There's n o missin g th e lon g serie s of restaurants on the Main between Sherbrooke and des Pins vying for you r attention. With so much action, eye candy, and enticin g food in one place, one wonders how patrons pick and choose. Do they g o for th e spac e with the trendies t decor , th e restauran t known for its solid cuisine, or the hot spot that boasts the latest celebrity sighting? Globe is an establishment considered "hot" on all these fronts. Food, though, has always been Globe's strongest suit . A soup of the da y speaks volumes abou t a kitchen. Globe' s tomato sou p with lobster an d avocado puts all those usual, dreary, vegetableenhanced broths to shame. Speckled with chives, the soup is rich yet light in texture, and not in the least bit cloying. Floating in the orange broth is a cup's worth of delicate lobster meat. Spoon u p the soup alone and it's excellent. Add a chunk of lobster and it becomes luxurious. Top that off with a melting slice of avocado and I would go so far as to cal l it sexy. Broiled clams topped with onion, tomato, and basil are almost as sensual. The clams are plump an d soft , an d th e garnis h provides a good balance of acidity. A colourful bee t salad with goat's cheese includes thickly cut cooked yellow beets, thinly sliced candy cane (Chioggia ) beets, whisper-thin bab y asparagus, radishes , cinder-coate d St . Maure goat's cheese, the od d green, and a few bacon bits at the base of the mound. Eac h morsel is first-class, but lik e a hockey team o n which everyon e is playing defence, th e groupin g lacks synergy. A remarkable vinaigrette o r mor e sal t migh t hav e zipped th e flavours up a notch. A good litmus test for any restaurant is salmon. Though everyone sticks it on the menu, only the best can lift it to greater heights. Morin does just that. His salmon filet consists of a thick square of pristine salmon seared on both sides and presented skin-side-u p with wax beans and baby asparagus on a bed of vegetable quinoa. Every morsel is melting, and so fresh it squeaks between the teeth. Superb. Also splendi d i s the calf' s liver , a thick sla b o f velvety pink meat topped with two jumbo onion rings and served on a bed of

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fingerling potatoes an d saut6e d rapini . Like the starte r salad , a main-course rabbi t braised with mustard doesn't quite come together. Though th e saddl e o f rabbi t i s moist an d delicious , it s sauce has no discernable mustard taste. The accompaniments— the odd summer truffle, past a shells, and sauteed greens—seem lost in the mix, as do the musty-tasting bits of sausage. Globe's desserts can sometimes b e too simple . A homemade donut topped with vanilla ice cream and strawberries will set you back a steep $10, as will a dish of Rose Drummond strawberries served with a cookie an d what tastes like sweetened condense d milk. Gorgeous waitresses are practically a hallmark of the Main' s restaurants. Globe waitresses easily fit that description, with charm and professionalism to spare. IN THE KITCHEN • Executive chef David McMilla n and che f de cuisine Frederic Morin. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Globe's new decor—with mir rors, wood panelling, putty-coloured walls, and cushy burgundy leather upholstery—is streamlined and masculine. The banquettes, a step up from the main floor, are still the place to be, providing a people-watching perc h fo r some and a pedestal on which to be admired fo r others . O n bus y nights, the environmen t i s dark, noisy, and crowded. It's also trendy enough to make you secondguess your choice of footwear. WINE LIST • Globe's international wine list was always well selected, and bottles were fairly priced. Today's list is perhaps even more interesting, an d big spenders drawn to triple-digi t wines have plenty of choice. However, with only one white wine and ten red wines under $50, those looking at the bottom line might feel left out . DON'T MISS • The soups, the fresh seafood , the crispy duck, the salmon, the liver, and the warm chocolate torte. The daily specials are also a good bet.

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WORDS TO THE WISE • If you want to take part in the action, visit Globe Thursday, Friday, or Saturday. If you're looking for a gourmet experience, I suggest eating earlier in the evening or earlier in the week. A word o f advice: This is more a place to take a friend eager to soak up the action on the Main, and not necessarily your mother, unles s she dresses like Cher. GLOBE

3455 Boulevard St. Laurent (near Sherbrooke) Location: The Main Telephone: (514) 284-3823 Web site: www.restaurantglobe.co m Open: 6 P.M.-11 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $9-$18; main courses, $27-$45; desserts, $8-$10

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FRENCH

GUY 8 DOD O MORALI SNAPSHOT • Although Guy & Dodo Morali has a large and loyal following among the power-lunch crowd, many Montrealers may never have heard of it. The reason? The restaurant's location, which is inside the Cour s Mont Roya l on Rue Peel. Yet this hidden ge m epitomizes French savoir faire, offering traditional French cuisine and som e o f the friendlies t service in the city . Standouts o n th e menu include the fish dishes and the exceptional confit de canard. THE BIG PICTURE • In Montreal's shops an d boutiques, you'l l find many people who've mastered the French art of salesmanship.

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These are the commerfant s who , while wrapping up your pur chase, politely inquire , "And with that , Madame?" Yet the mos t endearing o f these personalitie s ar e ofte n foun d i n restaurants . The maltre d ' a t Le Grand Cafe , for example, offer s waitin g pa trons a complimentary glass of wine. Then there's the owner of Le Bistingo, who will always try t o find you a table, even when his restaurant is full. Add to this list the owners and wait staff of Guy & Dodo Morali. This downtown restaurant is the place to come to experience friendly French service at its best. The room is overseen by Dodo Morali herself. The tall, stylish, blonde patronne is easy to spot as she greets regulars at the door by name or hands out boxes of homemade chocolates to tourists. She often appear s tableside to take your order, her eyes sparkling as sh e tantalizes with recommendations fro m th e tabl e d'hote , nodding an d smilin g in approva l whe n someon e choose s th e house specialty, confit d e canard. The menu is classic French, more haute cuisine than bistro. Of the starters, the clam chowder is creamy and filled to overflowing with potatoes and tender clams. The excellent boudin blanc (veal sausage) arrive s sliced and arrange d i n a circle around a pile of melting caramelized onions. Also memorable is the duck terrine, which is wonderfully chunky and flavourful. Less successful is the cream of carrot soup (a bit bland), the oeufs mayonnaise (better labelled "mayonnaise oeufs"), and the seared scallops with sea salt (stringy and too salty for my taste). Main course s ar e excellent . The salmo n Wellington , a puf f pastry-wrapped layerin g o f spinach, mois t salmon , an d julienned vegetables, is a lovely light dish, far more appealing than its old-fashioned bee f counterpart . Halibu t amandine , a pan-frie d filet topped with toasted, slivered almonds and served on a bed of tender julienned vegetables, is tender, fresh, buttery, and melting. The cote de veau Normande is a thick veal chop sliced and sauced with a Calvados veal jus, saut£ed mushrooms, and apple slices. A side dish of creamy scalloped potatoes adds a welcome touch of excess. And the confit de canard? Terrific—all crackling skin and glistening dark meat. (Although confit purists would stop here, with

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maybe a bouquet of watercress to refresh the palate between bites, the waiter adds a brown, meat-based sauce espagnol that obliterates the flavour of the duck and softens the crispness of the skin.) Equally appealing are the pan-frie d sliced potatoes, caramelized onions, and sauteed Parisian and oyster mushrooms. Desserts include a fine creme caramel, an okay tarte Tatin (the crust can be a bit soggy and the apples on the dry side), an excellent molten chocolat e cak e served in a ramekin, and that well-loved French bistro classic, floating islands. At coffee time, Dodo Morali reappears, all smiles, with a plate of tuiles, while chef Guy Morali makes his way around the room, greeting diners by name, with the comfortable air of a man sur rounded by friends. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Guy Morali. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • With its cream walls, wood panelling, wide bar laden with open wine bottles and fancy liqueurs, small shaded lamps, and wooden ducks on every table, the setting is straight out of a French thriller. One can just picture Belmondo, playing a spy, seated in one of the well-worn leather banquettes or high-backed chairs. WINE LIST • Selections ar e divers e and wel l priced, wit h th e added bonus that every wine listed is available by the glass. DON'T MISS • The clam chowder, the confit d e canard (skip the sauce), the fish, and the simple desserts, like the creme caramel. WORDS TO THE WISE • Guy & Dodo Morali is a restaurant that pampers it s customer s an d make s them fee l lik e valued guests . Apparently this establishmen t draw s no t onl y locals , but als o many out-of-towners wh o com e fo r a dose o f genuin e Frenc h charm as well as for the food .

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GUY & DODO MORAL! 1444 Rue Metcalfe or 145 5 Rue Peel (in the Cours Mont Royal) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 842-3636 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.- 10:30 P.M., Monday to Friday, and 5:30 P.M.midnight, Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $6.50-$24.50; main courses, $10.50$38.80; desserts, $6.50-$12.80

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FRENCH

HOLDER SNAPSHOT • A winning brasserie is all about good food in a relaxed an d sophisticate d setting . Thi s establishment , on e o f Old Montreal's newest, has both. Partners Maurice Holder (owne r of Le Swimming), Paul Holder (owner of Cafe du Nouveau Monde), and Bobby Sugleris (owner of Ouzeri) have expanded the French brasserie concept by adding a taste of Europe. On top of classics like steak frites and seafood bisque, diners can enjoy pasta puttanesca, pancetta-wrapped cod, or saganaki with a chaser of ouzo. With hi s restraine d styl e am d vivid us e o f flavour , che f Vincent Boudet does their vision justice. THE BIG PICTURE • On this side of the Atlantic, the words "bistro" and "brasserie" are often used interchangeably—but that's incorrect. While bistros ar e intimate neighbourhoo d restaurants , brasseries are large and bustling, with busines s hours extendin g well past the witching hour. Both styles of restaurant dish up classics like confi t d e canard , steak frites , an d seafoo d bisque . Bu t brasseries kick it up a notch, with heaping platters of choucroute and towers of fresh seafood. Simply put: if a bistro is your reliable

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brother, a brasserie is your crazy sister who likes to party. Though the difference between the two genres is quite obvious in France , Montreal restaurateur s ten d t o blu r th e distinction . Holder is no exception. For example, you probably wouldn't fin d something as elegant as cauliflower soup with a quenelle of smoked salmon mousse in your average Parisian brasserie. But you do here. The soup has the right texture and a winning flavour, accented by the bits of smoky salmon in the mousse. The usua l goat' s chees e number i s given a modern twis t a t Holder. The cheese is served in a large fluffy round with a side of oven-roasted tomatoe s an d anchovy-heav y tapenade. It's a dis h of spreads that are designed to be smeared on slices of crusty baguette. They are also good enough to be eaten solo with a fork. Cold foi e gras is another dis h designed for a bread accompaniment. Here it's cooked in a tube shape (au torchon), sliced into generous rounds, and serve d with croutons an d a lightly spiced fig an d pea r compote. Th e foi e i s melting, and it s flavour is just bitter enough t o offse t it s inherent sweetness . Any foie gra s aficionado would relish this appetizer. For a real treat, pair it with a glass of Gewiirztraminer (available by the glass for $8.75). Holder's compose d salads, a must for any brasserie, could use some work. The salade Nicoise is laced with a vinaigrette far too timid to complement the bold components—grilled tuna, green beans, tomatoes, Bib b lettuce, olives, and green and red peppers. A mesclun salad, topped with Parmesan shavings, a limp pancetta chip, and roasted tomato segments, is on the salty side. The salade de foies de volaille contains a soupy mix of chicken livers soaking in a pool of raspberry vinegar. Things brighten u p considerabl y with th e meats. Thoug h a tad soft in the texture department, the grilled hanger steak has the requisite beef y flavour . Th e accompanyin g French frie s ar e ho t and crisp, heavenly when dipped in the Dijon-heavy mayonnaise. Veal medallions ar e tender an d greatl y enhanced with a sage and lemo n sauce . Served alongside ar e woodsy sautee d giroll e mushrooms an d thick , homemade tagliatell e tossed wit h fres h herbs. The calf's liver is seared on the outside, rose on the inside, and coated with a jammy onion sauce.

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Desserts are delicious and, true to brasserie form, simple. The textbook-perfect cr£m e carame l flavoure d with vanill a bean s merits its $5 price tag. A trio of creme brulees—chocolate, orange, Amaretto—all have that requisite creamy/crunch y thing going on. A spongy and somewhat gooey pineapple upside-down cak e is another good choice. But all these desserts pale next to the profiteroles, which are made with fresh choux pastry, great vanilla ice cream, an d a n intens e chocolat e sauc e swirle d wit h crem e anglaise. Wow. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Vincent Boudet. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • At lunch, there's no missing the biz crowd, the unshaven creative types, and the tourists who rule the Old City in summer. At night the room is filled with branch^ fortysomethings and young, hip families with toddlers in tow. The right side of the room is taken up by a handsome bar, and the space is accented by curved walls covered in sheets of copper. With it s oversize wood-framed mirrors, leather banquettes, pot ted palms, and re d velvet drape s framin g window s overlookin g Rue McGill, the room has the well-worn Art Deco look of an authentic Parisia n brasserie . On e coul d easil y imagin e Rom y Schneider an d Alain Delon sipping Moe t & Chandon i n on e of the dimly lit corners. WINE LIST • Holder's wine list, comprising a good choice of international bottles (many privately imported and most under $50), is a good start. My complaint would be the lack of variety in the $50 range. The red selection jumps fro m $4 3 to $62.50 a bottle, leaving a whole category of terrific midpriced wine s unexplored . DON'T MISS « The foi e gras , the goat' s chees e plate, th e vea l medallions, the hanger steak with fries, the cheese course, and the desserts. WORDS TO THE WISE • Despite the shortcomings , whe n thi s kitchen's on, it's hard to find fault. Service is iffy, but this is a young restaurant and, all taken, the future looks promising. Though the

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details hav e yet to b e mastered, th e essential s o f th e brasseri e experience are already well in place. HOLDER 407 Rue McGill (near St. Paul) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514) 849-0333 Open: noon-midnight, Monday to Friday, and 5:30 p.M.-l A.M., Saturday and Sunday Wheelchair access : No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $5.50-$18.50; main courses, $13.50-$44 (most under $20); desserts, $5-$7.50

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ITALIAN

IL CAMPAR I CENTRO SNAPSHOT* One of downtown Montreal's top Italian restaurants, II Campari serves upscale classic Italian cuisine in a luxurious setting. The wine list is extensive and the service is exceptionally polished an d friendly . Hocke y fans take note: the Molson Centr e is but a stone's throw away. THE BIG PICTURE • What serious cook hasn't tried to re-create a restaurant dish at home? In my case, there have been many. But I will always remember the first—penn e Campari , from I I Campari, located on th e corne r o f Cot e de s Neiges and Van Home. Here was the perfect pasta dish: tiny tubes of penne drenched in a creamy tomato sauce chock full of sauteed mushrooms and sliced pancetta. I had almos t cracked the code when II Campari moved downtown, changing its name to II Campari Centra.

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The new location is an open room that seats about 90 diners and feature s a n elevate d outdoor terrac e overlookin g Rue de la Montagne. There's a long list of daily specials along with a la carte listings of traditional Italian soups , salads, meat, fish, and, sur prisingly, only eight pasta dishes. Of the starters, the calamari fritti is excellent. The golden frie d squid are crisp, tender, and salty, and without a trace of grease left in their wake. Other favourites include a full-flavoured lentil soup, and a fresh spinach salad with a creamy vinaigrette. A plate of prosciutto and melon is also exceptional. The thin slices of top-quality prosciutto are served with sections of luscious late-summer melon. A few strawberry quarters add an original sweet note to the dish (another II Campari concept worth trying at home). The beef and tuna carpacci o plate s miss th e mark because both featur e mor e arugula than meat (they might better be described as salads). By contrast, two main -course dishes, ravioli with Gorgonzola and penne with green peas, are quite nice. The ravioli is homemade an d stuffe d wit h a surprisingly subtle Gorgonzola filling. The penne, served with fresh pea s and sauteed pancetta, is good but dry, simply crying out for more sauce. The risotto with porcini mushrooms is mushroom heaven—a walk in the woods. The creamy rice is packed with slices of fresh, expensive porcini mushrooms. The overall effect wil l send your olfactory senses into overdrive. II Campari Centre offers several versions of that old CanadianItalian favourite, veal scaloppini. Here's a dish that's difficult to get excited about. Some of the sauces, however, such as the mustar d cream sauce, are very good. So are the accompanying grilled peppers, sauteed spinach, cauliflower, and broccoli. As i n man y of Montreal's Italia n restaurants , dessert s are a minor player on the menu. The obligatory tiramisu is fluffy an d frozen in the middle. There's an interesting iced chocolate mousse that's creamy , along the lines of a semifreddo, with a wonderful hazelnut kick. Service at II Campari Centra is excellent. The waiters, fine Italian gentlemen all, could show many in the Montreal service community a thing o r two . Cutlery i s discreetly replaced, wine is poured with care, and the occasional jokes are perfectly timed.

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IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Antonio Santa. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The luxuriou s settin g feature s wood-panelled walls , stained-glass windows, and racks of expensive wine. The diners are tourists and locals, especially those with tickets to an event at the Molson Centre, located a few blocks away. WINE LIST • Wines are expensive, with ful l bottles costing close to triple their retail price. A few less expensive bottles an d several half bottles (only one red) are available. Wines by the glass are disappointing. It's worth enquiring about the unlisted and relatively inexpensive imports tha t are available from tim e to time. DON'T MISS • The prosciutto and melon, the pasta (especiall y the penne Campari), the mushroom risotto , the veal with mustard cream sauce, and the iced chocolate mousse. WORDS TO THE WISE • While I I Campar i Centr a i s not th e most cutting-edg e restauran t i n town , it' s no t th e mos t old fashioned either. Generally speaking, the food is delicious and the stellar service leaves nothing to be desired. Another plus is the location. Unlike nearby Rue Crescent, with its boisterous bar scene, lower Rue de la Montagne has a charm all its own. For summertime dining, the small front terrace is hard to beat. IL CAMPARI CENTRO 1177 Rue de la Montagne (near Rene Levesque) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 868-1177 Open: 11:3 0 A.M.-11 P.M., Monday to Friday, and 5 P.M.midnight, Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $6.50-$17.50; main courses, $15.50-$39; desserts, $4.50-$8.50; three-course table d'hote menu, $21-$35

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$S

ITALIAN

IL CORTIL E SNAPSHOT • This is the Italian restaurant we're all looking for: a place with friendly waiters, a welcoming ambience, a comprehensive Italian wine list, and a menu featuring authentic, affordabl e Italian fare. The daily market menu is made up of classic favourites, including buffal o Mozzarell a and tomatoes , Caesa r salad , stracciatella, as well as various pasta and veal dishes. The decor is as elegant as the crowd, which includes man y business types and museum-going ladies who lunch. THE BIG PICTURE • II Cortile is e o f Montreal's little secrets —a real find, tucked away down a corridor i n the basement of a Rue Sherbrooke gallery of stores fronted by a chocolate shop. At lunch, almost every table is filled, and waiters whiz past carrying colourful an d appetizin g plates . Whe n th e su n sets , everythin g changes: the lights are low and the room is usually empty—you'd never know it was the same restaurant. Obviously, lunch is II Cortile's raison d'etre. The dail y marke t men u i s set out tabl e d'h6t e style, wit h starters included in the price of the main course. Nothing is complicated here; it's all quite simple—as Italian cuisin e should be. The caprese salad, made of ripe tomatoes, creamy Mozzarella, and mesclun, is dressed with an assertive balsamic vinaigrette. A plate of prosciutto an d Parmesan offer s a generous portion o f paperthin prosciutt o slice s and chunk s of buttery, Parmesan—two of Italy's fines t foodstuffs , whic h mel d together , mouthfu l afte r mouthful. Some of the othe r starter s coul d us e some fine-tuning . Th e egg and chicken broth soup, stracciatella, is filled with overcooked spinach and mushy zucchini. Given the neon colour of the broth, one might suspect commercia l chicke n stock played a role in its composition. Th e Ricotta filling o f a crepe served with a saffro n hollandaise is in desperate need of seasoning—even just salt and

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pepper. A small serving of melanzane (grilled eggplant and zucchini topped with tomato sauc e and cheese ) i s covered in som e insipid Provolone. Two main-course pastas , linguini pomodor o e basilico an d fazzoletti (Ricott a and spinach pasta pockets), prove that home made pastas are the way to go at II Cortile. The linguini is a generous bowl of thin spaghett i topped wit h fresh basi l and plent y of chunky tomato sauce. This is pasta at its simplest and most appealing. The fazzoletti is a classic Ricotta and spinach filling loosely wrapped in sheets of fresh pasta and topped with more of the wonderful red sauce, obviously made with fresh tomatoes. A house specialty, gnocchetti with Gorgonzola sauce, features bite-size gnocchi made in-house with semolina flour and Ricotta as opposed to the standar d heavie r potato dough . Although the dumplings ar e indeed less filling than most , this time the sauce fails to impress. Not only has it separated into an oily, creamy puddle, but als o the Gorgonzola flavour is faint. Though th e risott o primaver a looks promising—glistenin g and loaded with mushrooms, zucchini, and spinach—the consistency of the rice is mushy, and it lacks the required creamy starchiness. The veal scaloppini is lightly saut£ed and drizzled with lemon, white wine, and pan juices. The accompaniments include saut6ed zucchini strip s an d re d peppers. It's about a s exciting as North American pork chops and applesauce. With a cup of espresso, don't miss the tiramisu, which, unlike many dull versions of this popular dessert, is fresh, moist, heavy on the cake, and creamy enough to make it all come together. There's also a fine three-chocolate mousse cake (very eighties) and an icy lemon sorbet . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner France DeCrescentis. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The restaurant is small—just 46 seats. The bright room features an elaborately tiled floor and bar, and floor-to-ceilin g windows that face a small courtyard, which comes to lif e (an d doubles th e seating capacity) in the summer.

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Dark-green woode n Venetia n blinds, oi l paintings, an d Italia n wine bottles o f various size s add a n ai r o f sophistication . I f i t weren't fo r th e well-dressed patron s chattin g loudl y i n bot h French and English (often on cell phones), you could imagine you were in a bourgeois restaurant in downtown Milan. WINE LIST • II Cortile offer s a comprehensive selection o f fine Italian wines at many price points. There are also six reasonably priced choices by the glass: three red and three white. One insider's tip: if you open it, the bottle of San Pellegrino that has been placed on your table (and every other table in the place) will make its way onto your bill. DON'T MISS • The starters, the homemade pastas, and the heavenly tiramisu. WORDS TO THE WISE • Dinner and lunch at II Cortile are nightand-day experiences. The former limps along, never quite taking flight, while the latter is good in just about every respect. It's obvious that this establishment i s catering to the lunch crowd. So do lunch and enjoy . IL CORTILE 1442 Rue Sherbrooke West (in the Passage du Musee) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 843-8230 Open: 1 1 A.M.-11 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended at dinner; essential at lunch Cards: Major cards Price range: Lunch table d'hote menu, $17-$30; dinner, $23 $32; desserts, $6.50; prix fixe menu, $40

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ITAIIAN

IL MULIN O SNAPSHOT • II Mulino is a homey neighbourhood restaurant located on the quiet corner of St. Zotique and Alma in the heart of Little Italy. Renowned for over a decade for its cucina rustica usin g only the best market ingredients, this well-loved restaurant's new owners aim to preserve the high quality—wit h prices to match . THE BIG PICTURE • A critically acclaime d restauran t chang ing hands is enough to cause a stir on the fine-dining scene, especially a Montreal institution like II Mulino, an establishment tha t has been family owned and operate d for over a decade. Owners Francesca an d Mari a Mazz a turned thi s unpretentiou s neigh bourhood restauran t int o on e o f the city' s top Italia n eateries , where authentic Calabrian cuisine made from the freshest market ingredients attracted a faithful following. Recently, a restaurateur and Mazza family friend took over the reins . New owners Aniello Covone and chef Tony De Rose's aim was to preserve II Mulino's combination of unpretentious Italian cuisine and warm and watchful service. And they have been successful. Mr . Covone's greeting is welcoming, and hi s lengthy men u explanations and wine suggestions are more than helpful . The dail y men u offer s Italia n marke t cuisin e wit h nar y a pompous nam e or a fussy presentatio n i n sight . After elaborat e French meals, there's no denying the appeal of Italian cucina rustica. But let's no t confus e rusti c or simple with inexpensive , for the ingredient s at I I Mulino ar e high quality , which means that prices are bound to be steep as well. Since starter an d main-cours e portion s ar e large, it's bes t t o avoid fillin g u p o n th e excellen t hous e focaccia and op t fo r th e complimentary olives or peppers instead (be warned: the peppers are hot enoug h t o be classifie d a s lethal weapons). To begin, it's hard t o resist the homemade gnocchi, described by Mr. Covone as "the lightes t i n town. " H e ma y be right . Th e larg e potato

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dumplings ar e a delight—melt-in-the-mouth tender and not in the least bit gummy (a common gnocchi pitfall). But gnocchi tend to be bland, and they require a bold sauce. The tomato-basil sauce offered her e is just too insipid to make the dish memorable. For the same reason, the paccheri polpette (large , smooth, rigatoni like pasta tubes) also falls short. The tomato sauce is again lackluster, and th e dish' s two large veal meatballs, though tasty , are barely warm. The same meatballs, scaled down i n size, make a second ap pearance in a bowl of vegetable soup. Served in a homemade broth filled with chunky vegetables, the herb-enhanced mini-meatballs add heartiness to this robust: winter soup. Other winnin g appetizer s include grilled scallops , antipasto , and crostin i con fegatin i d i feaon a (toaste d bread with sautee d guinea-hen livers). The large diver scallops, served with tangy pink grapefruit segments, have a caramelized crust and translucent centre—perfection o n a plate. The antipasto selectio n i s served on two plates : one wit h buffal o Mozzarell a an d freshly sliced pro sciutto, and the other with grilled mushrooms, peppers, and eggplant, boosted wirn dribbles of thick, sweet, aged balsamic vinegar. When available , the sautee d guinea-he n liver s are not t o b e missed. Tender, sweet, and without a trace of bitterness, the little livers, which are sauteed with mushrooms and onions and placed atop a large crouton, offer a rare taste of an authentic favourite. Unfortunately, th e many high note s hit by the starter s don' t follow through to the main courses. The fish soup (zuppa di pesca) consists o f a large bowl of saffron-flavoure d brot h fille d wit h clams, mussels, and scampi, as well as pieces of salmon, bass, and monkfish. Though the monkfish and scampi are both tender and tasty, the mussels are dry, the clams sandy, and the salmon overcooked. The delicious garlic, tomato, and saffron broth turns out to be the best part of the mix. Reading the menu description "roas t veal with cipollini," one would expect sliced veal roast with a handful o f sweet, flat cipollini onions. What arrives instead are two large and thick roasted veal chops and a few roasted shallots. The meat has a rich flavour, but it's also dense and dry. Far better is the osso buco with risotto,

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which is served only on Wednesdays. In this veal dish, the meat is juicy and falling off the bone. A sweetbread- and mushroom-filled tortelli (a large tortellini) is served with a veal jus enhanced with tomato and cream. Though the pasta wrapping is excellent, the flavour of the sweetbread filling is too subtle , and it has a mushy consistency. What a shame, since this luxury ingredient's appeal is its light and spongy texture. Desserts, so rarel y given ful l pla y in Italia n restaurants , are taken seriously at II Mulino. The tiramisu has a pronounced coffe e flavour, the ideal creamy texture, and a cake base that hasn't been soaked to death. The apple tart is also dreamy, thanks to its delicate, buttery crust. But the best is the semifreddo. It's cool, creamy, and chock full of caramelized hazelnuts—heaven when savoured alongside a smooth, inky espresso. One of II Mulino's most appealing aspects is the service. Timing between courses is ideal, wine is carefully decanted and poured, and everyone , especially Mr. Covone, does his best to make sure you're comfortable and well fed. IN THE KITCHEN»Chef and co-owner Tony De Rose. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Small and square , the stucco ceilinged room i s lined with wooden armoires , a small bar, and, on the back wall, a rack containing books and numerous bottles of wine. There are no more than 14 tables here, all covered in immaculate, starched white linen. The restaurant is usually packed with regulars, including many Italian families, who are greeted by Mr. Covone with smiles and handshakes in the true "sympatico" Italian fashion. WINE LIST • The primarily Italian selections include about two dozen bottles of red and white wine priced between $30 and $70. There are also close to 5 0 private imports (includin g many rare wines and magnums) from $10 0 to $400. DON'T MISS • The homemade gnocchi, the sauteed guinea-hen livers, the scallops, the antipasto, the osso buco, and the desserts.

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WORDS TO THE WISE • Considering th e shor t transitio n pe riod from the old to the new guard, it's possible that the chef has yet to come into his own. And when he does, II Mulino might very well assume the lofty perch it enjoyed during its illustrious past. IL MULINO 236 Rue St. Zotique East (corner Alma) Location: Little Italy Telephone: (514) 273-5776 Open: Lunch, noon-3 P.M.; dinner, 6 P.M.-10 P.M., Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $10-$22; main courses, $28-$38; desserts $5-$6

$••*$

JAPANESE/SUSHI

KATSURA SNAPSHOT • Katsura is the place where a young, attractive, upscale crowd flocks to feast on excellent sushi and sashimi. Japanese standbys like tempura and teriyaki are less successful. The setting, with its private tatami rooms and comely waitresses padding along in silk kimonos, is always glamorous. The lunchtime table d'h6te offers good value. THE BIG PICTURE • The crowd at Katsura would be the envy of many a restaurateur. Here the patrons are attractive, upscale, adventurous, and young. This is one of the rare places in Montreal where you'll notice twentysomethings dining in couples as opposed to family groups. It appears that members of the new generation of high-end restaurant-goer s are cutting their teeth on Japanese food—and, mor e specifically, on sushi . Who would have imagined tha t th e natura l progressio n fro m pizz a an d Frenc h frie s

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would lead to dried seaweed, vinegared rice, and raw fish? Katsura has more in its corner than maki and hand rolls. This is also one of the most glamorous restaurants in town. But as stunning a setting a s Katsura provides, the foo d i s another story . It hasn't change d muc h i n 1 0 years. If anything , it' s gotte n a bit dreary. There's a n unfortunate assembly-line fee l to much o f the cuisine. True, Westerners accustomed to rich, filling sauces often find Japanese food insipid, but unles s you soak your food in the provided sauces (many of them bottled), you're sure to notice that some dishes don't live up to their exotic names and descriptions . Hot appetizer s ar e especiall y lackluster . Th e brochette s of chicken yakatori taste only sweet, and the skewered shrimp benefit littl e fro m a weak ginger sauce . Two dumplings, pan-frie d minced pork (yak i gyouza) and steamed shrimp (waf u shumai) , arrive as hot parcels , looking plump an d seductive . Too bad th e pork filling is as dull and pasty as canned ravioli, and the shrimp dumplings impart little taste of shrimp. Chicken tatsuta-age promises fried chicke n marinated in gingered so y sauce, but th e piece s taste no differen t tha n chicke n nuggets. The fried squid (karamari ) are tender, fresh, and benefi t from a spicy sauce. Unfortunately, the dis h is stone-cold, a s is a plate of assorted tempura, which might just be the greasiest version of this popular Japanese classic you've ever tasted. Anything to recommend? The deep-fried Japanese-style spring rolls are quite good. They're hot, supercrisp, and filled with bits of chicken and vegetable. The beef sashimi provides a pleasant start to a meal, though the lightly grilled meat could certainly be a bit more tender . A small portion o f crab sunomono offer s a mix of sweet (crab) and sour (vinegar) offset by cool, refreshing cucum ber and potent seaweed. The soups, including samashi, a clear fish broth enhance d with tin y shrimp, and akadashi, an opaque soybean soup, are also quite good. Main course s are uneven as well. Tempura, served as a main course, arrives hot, but is again greasy and lacking the sought-after light, lacy coating. The only high point o f the dish is the jumbo shrimp, which are both fresh-tasting and tender, despite the heavy batter.

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Although the chicken teriyaki is less salty than I remember, the meat lacks the promised charcoal-broile d flavour . It's served with two tough stalks of broccoli and some grilled green peppers. The accompanying fried onions are cold and taste as though they were fried at 6 P.M.—Japanese time. So, with al l these negatives, why is Katsura packing them i n night after night? In a word, sushi. It may not be the most adventurous in town, but it is very good, impeccably fresh, and masterfully prepared. And the people who come here know it, for you'll see sushi (not toban yaki) on almost every table. Connoisseurs might prefer to skip the sushi dinner (which offers a small, tame selection of standard nigiri sushi and cucumber and tuna maki) and opt for the a la carte selections. Set atop perfectly seasoned and cooked rice are melting slices of salmon, tuna, hamachi, sole, and shrimp. The grilled eel, or unagi, is terrific— both sweet and spicy. Katsura's maki rolls are only served in portions o f four, six, or eight large pieces. Favourites include the spicy tuna roll, the Katsura roll, the Montreal roll, and an especially spicy Kamikaze roll. The only roll that falls flat is the bage l roll. This is a reverse roll made with smoked salmon, cucumber, sesame, and a nugget of cream cheese that weighs the whole thing down (wher e did they get this recipe—Beauty's?). A slice of melon is the best way to end your meal at Katsura. Of the iced desserts, vanilla ic e cream is the clea r winner over a sweet orang e sorbet an d a n off-puttingl y bitte r green-te a ice cream. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The decor, with it s checkere d dark-wood panels , cherry-coloure d chairs , slanted ceiling , an d delicate Japanese prints, is the most elegant of its genre. Spacious tatami room s line the right side of the restaurant, providing an intimate setting for groups unwilling to compete with the elevated noise levels on crowded nights. Even the serving dishes, from th e lacquered soup bowls and sushi trays to the hand-painted glazed platters and casseroles, are exquisite.

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DON'T MISS«The soups, the beef sashimi, the spring rolls, and, of course, the sushi. WINE LIST • Most customers drin k Japanese beer o r sake (two varieties, served hot and cold). There are also ten white and eight red wines priced between $27 and $60. WORDS TO THE WISE • Is Katsura's courteous and efficient service, first-class decor, an d better-than-averag e sush i enoug h t o compensate fo r the lapse s of its kitchen? Yes and no . If you're a connoisseur o f Japanese food, you might want to venture further afield. But if it's a civilized evening you're looking for, or if you're curious about some of the more exotic aspects of the fine-dinin g scene, you may find yourself making regular trips here. KATSURA 2170 Rue de la Montagne (near Sherbrooke) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 849-1172 Web site: www.restaurantkatsura.com Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.-10 P.M., Monday to Thursday, 5:30 P.M.11 P.M., Saturday, and 5:3 0 p.M.-9:30 P.M., Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $4.75-$12; main courses, $16-$29; desserts, $1.75-$4; complete dinners, $34-$45

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; FRENCH

LA BASTID E SNAPSHOT • When La Bastide opened in May 2001, it was praised to the hilt by local French critics. Everyone was gushing about this restaurant's winning formula: an imaginative southwestern French menu, a welcoming staff, a relaxing decor, and reasonable prices. Things have quieted down considerably since. Prices have gone up slightly, and there's a new chef in the kitchen. The convivial ambience remains the restaurant's strength. It isn't quite perfection, but this unpretentious Mile End restaurant works hard to live up to its original press clippings. THE BIG PICTURE • "Bienvenue!" exclaims Pierre Vesperini, La Bastide's tall , dark, bushy-haired, blue-eyed, well-buil t owner . "Come, we have a table for you on th e terrace, " says the affabl e Frenchman, bounding alon g like an excite d Labrado r retriever . Vesperini's enthusiasm is infectious. You'll find yourself bounding along behind him with an eager smile on your face. La Bastide's menu is short, with adde d seasonal specials and wines offered by the waiter at the outset of the meal. Starters are light and bright . A cold tomato sou p sprinkle d with chives has a clear fruity flavour an d a smooth texture, every slurp enlivening the taste buds. Paper-thin shaved fennel dressed with truffle oi l offers a simple yet complex flavour sensation. Add a few moist and meaty chunks of grilled tuna and you've got one superb appetizer . Grille d vegetable terrine i s another stunner . With it s layers of zucchini, mushrooms, eggplant, an d the most flavourful re d pepper s imaginable , thi s colourfu l square, en hanced with a dribble o f balsamic vinegar , puts all those tire d grilled vegetable platters to shame . The assiett e d e cochonnailles , serve d i n a deep Morocca n bowl, is a medley of col d meats , including rosett e de Lyon an d Morteau sausages, Bayonrie ham, thinly sliced smoked lard, and chorizo. Each bite is garlicky, spicy, and salty—deliciou s sand wiched between thick slices of pain de campagne.

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The half-smoked , half-seare d salmo n i s sublime. Th e pin k flesh comes apart in silky morsels. The flavour is rich, pleasantly smoky, and almost sweet . Main course s turn u p heart y fare, the kind o f food bi g boys enjoy—like pork chops, beef stew, sausage, and bavettes. Ideally cooked magret de canard (we're talking crisp skin, pink flesh, and little fat ) is served wit h a n origina l accompaniment—re d rice . Daube de boeuf (bee f stew) is tender an d the sauc e is thick an d flavourful. Unfortunately, all is not rosy . Save for the occasiona l charred morsel, the tapas-styl e grilled calamar i is practically tasteless. A thick pork chop served with cor n cakes is also dreary, underseasoned, an d slightl y overcooked—much les s interesting than a home-grilled supermarke t chop . The halibut cheek s are stringy and bland. It' s amazin g that this du d originate d fro m th e same kitchen tha t produce d th e accompanyin g lentils , whic h ar e creamy and delicious. In the tradition o f classic French dining, the chees e course is the indispensabl e thir d act . L a Bastide offers a good choic e o f Quebec an d Frenc h cheeses—ideal fo r polishing of f a bottle of wine or glass of port before delving into the sweet finale. But don't ge t your hope s up . Dessert s fal l shor t o f expecta tions. Thoug h th e rum-enhance d Basqu e cake is delicious, it' s also rock-hard. The pistachio cream is refreshing but grows dreary after th e first few bites. The best way to end the meal here is with the warm chocolate cake with diced berries and vanilla cream . Despite the uneven foo d an d slow service, this restauran t has charm t o spare . At the en d o f the meal, Mr. Vesperini has been known t o regale customers wit h description s o f the restaurant' s transformation fro m a Portuguese socia l club, reeling off details like the number of nails he used in the Gyprock walls he installed and outlining his ambitious plans for the future . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Jean-Francois Vachon. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The restaurant's sparsely elegant decor features a welcoming bar, white walls, high ceilings, chic beige chairs, swooping drapes, and large framed mirrors . The terrace is

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equally arresting : more billowin g drapes , cotto n tablecloths, gleaming silve r and stemware— a regula r oasi s o n a lackluster stretch o f Mile End. The ambience i s laid-back; dres s is casualelegant, and host-owner Pierre Vesperini and his staff couldn't be more welcoming. WINE LIST • The wine list is short, fairly priced, and interesting . The restaurant offers thematic wine tastings most Monday nights. DON'T MISS • The half-smoked, half-seared salmon, the assiette de cochonnailles, the duck, and the cheese course. WORDS TO THE WISE • There's n o restauran t thi s side of th e Atlantic that can maintain the expectations created for La Bastide. One senses this restaurant has passed its peak. Hopefully the new chef wil l revamp the men u an d brin g back some of the forme r magic. LA BASTIDE 151 Avenue Bernard West (near Waverly) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 271-4934 Open: 6 p.M.-9:30 P.M. , Tuesday, 6 P.M.- 11 P.M., Wednesday to Saturday, and 5:3 0 P.M.- 10 P.M., Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $8-522; main courses, $26-$32; desserts, $7; three-course table d'hote menu, $25; tapas, $8 per portion, and $24 for a trilogie

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FRENCH

LA BICH E A U BOI S SNAPSHOT • Locate d i n th e Laurentians , 4 5 minute s fro m downtown, La Biche au Bois offers a welcome change from all the impersonal an d trend y restaurants dominatin g th e cit y scene at present. Che f an d owne r Olivie r Poissenot' s men u i s classi c French nouvell e cuisine. The $52 , four-course menu forma t al lows one to enjoy a long and leisurely dinner. Though there are a few innovativ e touches , Poisseno t make s hi s mar k no t wit h unique flavour combinations , but with elaborate plate presentations. Whatever the time of year, this is a prime spot for a night of indulgence and from which to observe nature at its loveliest. THE BI G PICTURE • Strolling u p L a Biche au Bois' s woode d path near the entranceway, I see a young chef picking herbs fro m the garden and edible flowers from the window boxes. Inside the auberge, we are warmly greeted by our hostess who leads us to a table next to a picture window overlooking tall pine trees and, to the right, meandering rapids. All that's missing in this ideal bucolic setting is Bambi, Thumper, and a few smiling garden gnomes. The firs t cours e is a choice of salad or one of two soups. The effort poure d into the assembly of the plates and the garnishes is something t o behold . Th e melo n vichyssoise , for example , is a colourful and refreshing mix of cantaloupe and honeydew purees garnished wit h radish , mint, edibl e flowers, and sprouts . Th e cream o f vegetable soup i s all swirls of white crea m in a velvety green potage built on a hearty chicken broth. The salad looks more like a flower arrangement than an appetizer. Made with frisee lettuce, more flowers, sprouts, endive, and taro chips dressed with a tangy vinaigrette, the whole is held up right by a ring of phyllo. The second-course appetizers are just as striking. Three oversized ravioli stuffed with duck confit arriv e in a bamboo steame r basket. The wonton wrapper s ar e tender, an d th e duc k flesh is

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melting. The accompanying caramel and balsamic vinegar dipping sauce adds the essential acidic element . Fried morsels of skate are set atop a square of celery root salad paired wit h baby white asparagu s and mound s o f sprouts. Accompanying the cold fish, this creamy re'moulade salad reminds me of one of those fifties lunch dishes favoured by the ladies-wholunch crowd. The tartiflette consist s of a layered stack of Chaource cheese, sliced boiled potatoes, and bacon bits, all intertwined with greens and topped with yet more flowers, herbs, and sprouts . Thoug h this classi c sounds promising , th e potent chees e dominates th e potatoes an d bacon, which lack sufficient intensit y of flavour t o tie it all together. Next to all the pretty starters, main-cours e presentations are subdued. All the dishes—Angu s beef filet, suckling pig, salmon medallions with scallops—arrive with the same vegetable accompaniments: celery root and carrot flan, broccoli, sugar snap peas, and a few odd bits and pieces of garnish such as cherry tomatoes spiked with corn sprouts, more white asparagus, and edible flowers . The beef is succulent and pink throughout. Its shiny mustard and balsami c vinega r sauc e packs a pleasant punch . Th e thre e salmon filet s arriv e twirled around a scallop. The flesh is moist and delicate , and th e herb-lade n butter y sauc e adds a note of richness. The only slight disappointment is the suckling pig. The three pieces of pork are topped with chicken forcemeat, wrapped in cabbage and caul fat (crepinette), and served with a sauce made with hops. It's quite nice, but the flavours are too subtle. What's needed here is a more vibrant sauce. Desserts again display this chef' s love of elaborate presenta tions. Unfortunately, behind the squiggles of coulis and scatterings of fruit, some of the offerings ar e mediocre. La Biche au Bois's superb dining room staff mor e than make up for the quibbles with the food. From beginning to end, waits between course s are expertly timed, cutlery is changed without fault, detailed menu descriptions are offered, and water glasses are replaced several times during the evening.

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IN THE KITCHEN«Chef and owner Olivier Poissenot. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The dinin g roo m deco r blend s country char m wit h sophistication . Ther e ar e the requisit e exposed wood beams, forest-green walls, and bold oil paintings. The dozen o r s o widely spaced table s ar e covered in laced-trimme d white linen and set with candles and dried flowe r arrangements . WINE LIST • The primaril y Frenc h and Italia n win e list offer s few interestin g bottles i n the $5 0 range. Thankfully, sommelier e Amelie Roy is on hand t o guide you to the right bottle fo r your budget. DON'T MISS • The soups, th e salad , the duc k ravioli , th e beef filet, and the salmon with scallops. WORDS TO THE WISE • La Biche au Bois is closed for most of November. This is off-season i n the Laurentians and a time when nature a s seen from th e restaurant's pictur e windows is least appealing. That still leaves 11 months when the setting is more than worth the drive to Ste. Adele. LA BICHE AU BOIS 100 Boulevard Ste. Adele Location: Ste. Adele Telephone: (450) 229-8064 Web site: www.labicheaubois.qc.ca Open: 6 P.M.-9:30 P.M., Wednesday to Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Four-course menu, $52

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ITALIAN

LA CANTIN A SNAPSHOT • Situated just north of the Boulevard Mtoopolitain, La Cantina is a well-kept secret from those of us who spend mos t of our time in Montreal's downtown core . The tables are filled and the place is buzzing almost every night. The unpretentious men u includes Italian-Canadia n favourite s such a s antipasto, strac ciatella, Caesar salad, fettuccini Gigi, as well as veal scaloppini and grilled meats. Not only is the food first-class and the wine list well chosen, bu t th e servic e displays th e utmos t courteousnes s an d professionalism. THE BIG PICTURE • Shopping at Jean-Talon Market in the heart of Montreal's Littl e Italy, I always end my rounds at my favourite Italian butcher an d grocery store, Capitol. If I'm lucky I run int o owner Tony Ledonne, who is always ready to show me the newest products, talk to me about olive oils and pastas, or offer me a sliver of fresh Parmesa n or a spoonful of aged balsamic vinegar. Not lon g ago , our usua l product-based discussio n turne d t o the local Italian restaurant scene. We generally agreed on the establishments we favour, but when he mentioned L a Cantina, I drew a blank. His eyebrows rose over his glasses in disbelief, and he suggested that I try it out. Since Tony is the man who introduced m e to the caviar of risotto rice, Carnaroli, as well as mosto d'uva sauce and the glories of imported Ricotta , if he says go, I'm there. My first visit was on a Friday night. After a warm greeting at the doo r b y co-owner Dominic o Fazioli , I move d throug h th e front room an d past the kitchen to a second dining room, where I spotted two portly men tucking into heaping plates of spaghetti, a magnificent prosciutto di Parma ready for slicing, and an enormous coffee machine pumping out espressos full throttle. As they say in Italian, the scene was "molto simpatico!" La Cantina's table d'hote features simple dishes like baked portobello mushrooms , arugul a an d Parmesan salad , tortellini with

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salmon, and fegat o a l balsamico (calf's liver with balsamic vinegar). Most of the dishes are good; some are magnificent. The antipast o plat e is exemplary. It include s frie d calamari , which are crisp on the outside an d tender within, ripe tomatoe s with Mozzarella , fragrant an d salt y prosciutto d i Parma, grilled and skinne d red peppers, and marinated strip s of eggplant that have no trace of stringiness or bitterness. The marinated and grilled octopus is also superb. Its texture is tender and meaty, and its flavour is fresh and smoky. A salad consisting o f arugula , bresaola (air-drie d bee f filet) , an d slice s of Parmigiano-Reggiano i s dressed wit h a vibrant, lemon y vinaigrette. Also delicious are the mussels, which arrive steaming hot and laden with saut6ed garlic and a chunky marinara sauce. Main courses include pastas, veal dishes, and a pancetta an d trevise risotto. The linguini with clam sauce is chock full of clams and feature s a balanced re d sauce and a l dente pasta. Nice. The ravioli ali a Capres e consist s o f tender past a pillow s fille d wit h cheese, more of the wonderful house tomato sauce, and a few slices of melted Mozzarella. To complement this main course, consider ordering the homemade meatballs, which are perfectly seasoned and light in texture; they provide a bit of backbone to the ravioli. The meat i n th e veal stew is coated i n a tomato-based sauc e that's zesty and well seasoned. It's served with crisp fried potatoes and undresse d steame d spinach. L a Cantina's vea l cho p arrive s glistening, and each pink-tinged morsel turns out to be juicy, full flavoured, and melt-in-the-mouth tender. The risotto is good, not great. Although cooked to perfection, the stock used is weak, the bits of pancetta and trevise are few and far between, and the buttery flavour can be overbearing. Desserts a t La Cantina ar e simple and satisfying—>a s Italia n desserts should be. Not to be missed is the creme caramel, which is silky smooth an d offer s a pleasant contras t betwee n assertive caramel sauce and gentle vanilla flan. The tiramisu is also praiseworthy, even if less creamy than the best. The chocolate-hazelnut semifreddo is rich and creamy, though not cloyingly so. Full-bodied and strong , without a hint o f bitterness, the espress o is the ideal accompaniment to these wondrous creams.

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IN THE KITCHEN • Chefs Marco Bitetti, Donate Ruberto, Maltese Diego, and Igniazio Logiudice. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The decor of the long rectangular dining room is quaint an d traditional . Oil paintings:—large and small (alon g with photos o f visiting celebrities, including a nice one of Charles Aznavour)—line the walls. Although the room is often crowded, noise levels are tolerable, and the ambience maintains a romantic feel, with small oil lamps adding a warm glow to every table. WINE LIST • The wine list i s short, but ove r half o f the wines available are private imports an d therefore not listed . The selections are primarily reds, 70 percent Italian an d 3 0 percent Cali fornian, and prices range from $24 to $1,000. Ask your waiter for suggestions. DON'T MISS • The antipasto, the grilled octopus, the pastas (with homemade meatballs), the veal chop, and the semifreddo . WORDS TO THE WISE • True, you won't find the fanciest tableware or elaborat e plate presentations here. But La Cantina does offer top-of-the-lin e ingredient s an d jus t about everythin g else one expects of a fine Italian restaurant, including an ambience that will make you feel very much a part of Montreal's big and boisterous Italian family. LA CANTINA 9090 Boulevard St. Laurent (near Legendre) Location: Little Italy Telephone: (514) 382-3618 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.--3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5 P.M.-11 P.M., Monday to Friday, 5 P.M.-11 P.M., Saturday, and 5 P.M.- 10 P.M., Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $4.50-$13.95; main courses, $8.75-$36; desserts, $3.50-$8.50

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LA CHRONIOU E SNAPSHOT»Over the past five years, this 40-seat establishment, located on a quiet stretch of fashionable Avenue Laurier, between du Pare and St . Urbain, has emerged from obscurity to become one of Montreal's top restaurants. How? It might have something to do with the combination o f chef Marc de Canck's imaginative market cuisine , the unpretentiou s setting , th e friendly , profes sional service, and an extensive, affordable wine list with numer ous selections available by the glass. THE BIG PICTURE • There's a f ruit an d vegetable store on th e south sid e of th e Jean-Talo n Market called Che z Louis, where many of the city' s top chef s sho p for such choice ingredients as cipollini onions, Ratt e potatoes, whit e asparagus, out-of-season berries, and more. On the counter, between the bottles of truffl e oil and aged balsamic vinegar, there's a cookbook for sale: La Chronique: Livre de cuisine aux saveurs d'ici e t d'ailleiirs b y Montrea l chef Marc de Canck. "He's one of our favourite customers," says the cashier, Monsieur Charles. "He only buys the best." The setting of de Canck's restaurant, La Chronique, is so disarmingly low-key that first-time visitors might not know they're in for the best. Built on his Belgian background and heavily influenced by his 20 years on the North American scene, his cooking puts a modern, experimental twist on market cuisine, resulting in some of the most inspired and exciting dishes around. Chef d e Canck' s cuisin e shines brightest wit h fish and sea food starters. One of the most memorable is the refreshing combination o f lobster (cla w and medallion ) wit h a lime, hazelnut, and vanilla vinaigrette, accompanied by a row of al dente, mouse tail-thin asparagus tips. Another pairs a tartare of potent green tea -smoked scallop s with hot , medium-rar e seare d scallops—an exemplary modern dish that successfully displays the contrasting flavours, textures, an d temperature s that ca n be draw n fro m a single luxury ingredient.

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An equally opulent stapl e treated in the hot and cold manner is the sashimi salmon. The raw fish is rubbed with coarsely ground pepper, coriander, an d mustar d seed, a s well as an exhilaratin g dose of sea salt. It's then seared, spice-side-down, to form a blackened, cooked layer on one side and a tender, raw one on the other (a Funilateral). Wow! It's no surprise that this is one of the most popular dishe s on the menu. Served with a lacy potato-crab cak e and a tomato-chili jam , the crisp, seared foie gras with a trembling, pudding-like centre is superb. Believe it or not, the seared striped bass is even better. Assembled, architectural-style, atop a dried tomato, black olive, and almond pesto with a miniature charred duck brochette propped on the side, the fish is moist and delicate, the skin crisp and salty. The accompanying pesto provides a Mediterranean accent with strong flavours that blend togethe r whil e remainin g distinct— incredible. Chef d e Canck's cooking, like that o f so many other modern chefs, better lends itself to the smaller starter forma t with fewe r ideas on the plate than to the generous, full-blown flavour-fest of the mai n course . You might wan t t o stic k with thi s kitchen' s strengdi: fish. It's not that the meat selections aren't very good. It's that two of them—the blackened duck magret with shrimp and veal live r with gnocch i and asparagus—offe r thic k cut s that, though flavourful an d cooked rose, are surprisingly tough. This is especially true of the duck. Far more successful are the veal sweetbreads matched wit h chorizo . Th e two flavours—elegan t an d buttery, robust an d spicy—thoug h worlds apart , complemen t each other exceedingly well. A further twis t is provided by an in tense veal jus enhanced with the sweetness of red pepper. One of the house's bes t dishes is the delicately flavoured and textured pan-fried mahimahi , which is set on a pool of aromatic oils: curry, paprika, and, of all things, chlorophyll . Equally delicious is the grilled red tuna with homemade agnolotti pasta pockets filled with scallop s an d surrounde d b y a sautd o f shiitak e mushrooms, onions, and zucchini. There are a few disappointments. Th e lobste r ca n be a ta d chewy. And I'm told that the marinated and lightly smoked Ouananiche salmo n i s a delicate hit-or-miss affair . Sometime s it' s

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melt-in-your-mouth tender, other times it's flaky and oversalted. But these are quibbles. It's more productive to point out how much th e dessert s have improved o f late. Memories o f carame l swirls and too man y tuiles of days past fade with eac h bite o f a gently flavoured maple parfait glace set on a crisp hazelnut butter cookie an d serve d with berries and pin k peppercorns. Another favourite i s the peca n tartlet spike d with Jac k Daniel's whiskey and topped with luscious homemade walnut ice cream. Chocolate lovers will savour the fudgy "moelleux" cake served with a scoop of th e best pineappl e sorbet ever . And don't pass up th e trio of creme bruises: chocolate, coffee, and lemon grass-star anise. La Chronique' s crowde d room i s manned b y young waiters who appear to do everything right with a large dose of personality and unaffectedness . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Marc de Canck. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The settin g i s that o f a fanc y bistro: gre y walls, a large grouping of black-and-white photog raphs (man y of them take n by chef de Canck himself), elegan t banquettes, sleek wooden chairs, and a small corner bar. Centred on one of the walls is a large clock whose time is fixed at 4:50 P.M. —the idea being to captur e th e moment o f serenity before the night's dinner service begins. WINE LIST • La Chronique ha s an exceptiona l wine list whose 280 selections provide fine drinking at every level. The bottles are well chosen and affordable , wit h many priced under $40 . There are also 10 fine red and white selections available by the glass. DON'T MISS • The sashimi salmon, the hot foi e gras , the pan fried mahimahi , the grilled tuna, the veal sweetbreads, the pecan tart, and the trio of creme bruises. WORDS TO THE WISE • There are certainly flashier, more ambitious restaurant s in town, but mos t diner s will be elated wit h Marc de Canck's fres h tak e on market cuisine. There's plenty to discover here—and many bites to be relished.

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LA CHRONIQUE 99 Avenue Laurier West (near St. Urbain) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 271-3095 Web site: www.lachronique.qc.ca Open: 6 P.M.- 10 P.M., Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended; nonsmoking environment Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $11-23; main courses, $29-$38; desserts, $10; tasting menus, $62-$85

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LA COLOMBE SNAPSHOT • Now celebrating its fourteent h anniversar y and reaching new heights ever y year, this bring-your-own-wine restaurant offer s seriou s gourme t foo d a t more-than-reasonabl e prices. The award-winning decor perfectly captures the sophisti cated funkiness of the surrounding neighbourhood—the Plateau Mont Royal. This is one of Avenue Duluth's most popular restaurants, so be sure to make reservations several days in advance, and be prepared to search for one of the area's few parking spots (especially in winter). THE BIG PICTURE • La Colombe is located in the Plateau Mont Royal, on the corner of Duluth and St. Hubert—BYOW central. Fine dining amid the pasta palaces and brochetteries on Duluth? Yes. Fresh fish, duck, game, and raw-milk cheeses are on the menu at La Colombe, and the desserts are made with that ne-plus-ultra chocolate, Valrhona. The style here is cuisine du marche', and everything—from stock s to desserts—is not only made from scratch , but also presented with flair. Ask around. You'll hear nothing but raves about two points: the high quality and the low prices.

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The clean , contemporary cuisin e suits the simpl e yet stylish room to a T. Take, for instance, the smoked salmon. Instead of the standard diagonally cut, paper-thin slice s with lemon, capers, and sliced onion , che f Moustafa Rougaibi slices the filet s straight , a tad thicker, and wraps them i n a circle around a julienned carrot and bea n sprou t sala d dresse d wit h Szechwa n vinaigrette. Th e deep-orange strips of salmon are lush and smoky, and the sesame oil, soy sauce, and rice wine vinaigrette, studded with black sesame seeds, gives an exotic boost to every bite. The cream of cauliflower soup has a gentle flavour that cauliflower haters woul d enjo y but aficionado s might fin d a bit to o subtle. A cold-weather favourit e is the hot salmon and Arctic char mousse, which is finely textured an d strongl y flavoured. The accompanying beurre blanc is rich and velvety—the real McCoy— with a hint of sweetness provided by a shot of maple vinegar. The dee r an d appl e sala d i s made with braise d tongue . It' s served cold, julienned, and paired with apple matchsticks and assorted baby lettuces. Unfortunately, like most tongue, the meat is bland and could use a stronger, more acidic dressing than the one provided. Lamb lovers are sur e to enjo y th e restaurant' s braised lam b shank. The meat is rich, tender, evenly braised, and sauce d with an intensel y flavoure d garlic , rosemary, and reduce d lam b jus. This hearty dish, served with Puy lentils and carrots, is far superior to many in town. Also on a par with the city's best is the grille d veal chop . Th e thick , juicy chop i s presented o n a deep squar e plate atop a mound of grilled peppers and surrounded by sauteed hedgehog mushrooms . It s herb-laden sauc e includes tarragon , thyme, rosemary, parsley, and, interestingly enough, wild ginger. Expect to pay $5 more for the chop, but considering the size of the portion, the quality of the meat, and the fresh wil d mushrooms , it's worth it. The main-course repertoire often includes meaty duck magrets (breast) and tender confits (leg) served with delicious fruit sauces, such as cherry. There's always fresh fis h available, and on e of th e best is a generous portion of Arctic char, perfectly prepared, moist, and delicate .

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Those willing to splurge may also enjoy the plate of raw-milk cheeses. The generous portions include St. Nectaire, Pierre Robert Triple Creme, Fourme d'Ambert, and Briquette Livradoise. Chocolate desserts are a passion of the chef's. One of his best is a hazelnut dacquoise cake spread with marmalade and toppe d with a seriously rich, creamy mousse made with Valrhona chocolate. Every bite provides the idea l match o f bitter and sweet enhanced with a splash of raspberry coulis. Even the simple custardfilled crepes are served with a milk chocolate sauce made with the best couverture-quality chocolate. Service at La Colombe is friendly, courteous, and prompt. Just don't expec t the waiters to pou r th e wine : you brought it , you pour it. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Moustafa Rougaibi. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The long narrow room of this unpretentious neighbourhood eater y features a small open kitchen, raw-wood siding , wine-bottle spotlights , an d rubber-tir e rugs. Renovated using mainly recycled materials, this funk y littl e restaurant was awarded the Jury Prize at the 199 9 Design Montrea l competition. Fo r a place that's small and usuall y packed with a loose-lipped BYO W crowd, the nois e levels are surprisingly low. WINE LIST • None. At La Colombe, you bring your own. Take note: Only wine is allowed on the premises, so leave the beer and spirits at home. DON'T MISS • The lamb shank, the Arctic char, the cheese course, and the Valrhona chocolate desserts. WORDS TO THE WISE * You might wan t to leav e your ca r a t home, especially on weekends, as parking anywhere hi this area is a nightmare. Reservations can also be problematic. La Colombe already has a strong local customer base that latches onto tables like piranhas. With onl y 40 seats available , your bes t bet i s to make a reservation (for no more than six people) several days in advance.

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LA COLOMBE

554 Avenue Duluth East (near Berri) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 849-8844 Web site: www.lacolombe.com Open: 5 P.M.-10 P.M., Tuesday and Sunday, and 5:30 P.M.11 P.M., Wednesday to Saturday (6 P.M. and 9 P.M. sittings on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday). Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential; no reservations for groups of more than six; nonsmoking environment Cards: All major cards Price range: Table d'hote menu, $33 (plus a few a la carte extras)

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LA GAUDRIOL E SNAPSHOT • This neighbourhoo d bistr o i s the idea l spot fo r budget-conscious gourmets. Here, the excitement is on the plate. The ingredients are exotic, the plate presentations are decorative, and some of the flavour combinations are downright adventurous. When was the last time you were served wild rice with cinnamon? The setting is unpretentious, and the service is casual. Two added bonuses: an affordable wine list and a lunchtime table d'hote. THE BIG PICTURE • La Gaudriole draw s neither th e crowd loving trendies no r th e decor-need y fashio n plates . This neighbourhood bistro is the place for gourmets with an eye on the bottom line . Its location—between th e chi c boutiques an d restau rants of Laurier West and th e specialty food store s and branch^ restaurants of Laurier East—could not be more appropriate. Why? Because La Gaudriole offers th e best of both worlds: the stylish ness of the West and the lack of pretension of the East. The menu offers the popular abridged table d'hote format, with a choice of starters included in the main-course price. Topping an

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intriguing list of starters is a cream of vegetable soup with sorrel, which i s ideally seasoned an d full-bodied . Another offer s thre e paper-thin crouton s toppe d wit h generou s mounds o f tang y creamed goat's cheese and sun-dried tomatoes. Instead of the predictable mesclun mix, the dish is served with a lightly dressed salad of potent baby mustard greens and gentle pea shoots. For a mere $9 supplement, La Gaudriole offers a hot foi e gras starter with roasted apple and cherry wine. The thick slices of panseared duc k foi e gra s are placed ato p a round o f roaste d apple topped wit h macerate d cherrie s and a pool o f reduce d cherry wine sauce. It's a generous portion that could easily set one back $25 elsewhere. Yet there are three elements lacking for this dish to meet its full potential: a crisp crust to contrast with the soft inte rior, a hint of sweetness or acidity to offset the dish's richness, and more salt to enliven the taste. Fortunately, flavours com e alive again with the main courses . Tilapia is a firm-fleshed white fish rarely seen on Montreal restaurant menus , a s its delicate flavou r present s a challenge to mos t chefs. The solution a t La Gaudriole is to boost it s flavour with a celery, bell pepper, and orange-zest salsa, further enhanced with a mango-mustard sauce . In this pairing, the tilapia provides the base texture, while the salsa gets me party going, so to speak. Grilled marli n i s perfectly cooked—crusted o n the outsid e and translucent on the inside. On this plate, the sauce, a black bean and citru s coulis , seems superfluous. Puree d black beans have a thick consistency and an earthy taste that adds little to the fish. A squirt of lemon may have sufficed. Two meat dishe s tur n u p toothsom e cut s and ful l flavours . The medallions of deer are served with a black chanterelle essence (sauce), grilled fennel, and duchesse potatoes. The chanterelle essence has the look and consistency of chocolate sauce and a taste so rich that you'd swear there's chocolate in there somewhere. Considering the exorbitan t cos t of lamb tenderloin, L a Gaudriole's offerin g o f six small filets nestled between thin strips of vegetables, steamed potatoes, and retried flageolet beans is a steal. The surrounding sauce is a light infusion o f purple basil flowers. But here the side dishes disappoint. The fried flageolets, though

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interesting in concept, are dry and heavy, and the steamed potatoes, another starch, are undercooked and underseasoned. The cheese course is another bargain. Among the Quebec and French cheeses, don't miss the aged Perron Cheddar, the Victor et Berthold, and the St. Maure goat's cheese. Desserts are given their due at La Gaudriole; presentations are glamorous and flavou r combination s intriguing . The best is the "caprice de Patrice." This showstopper consists of a delicious chocolate mousse filled with a smooth ginger cream. The mousse is set atop a round of spicy carrot cake that's surrounded on three sides by twisted carro t chips , makin g for one o f the bes t restauran t desserts around. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Marc Vdzina. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE - The decor is simple, with a long mirror down one side, grey and burgundy walls, and about 1 5 tables surrounded by modern wicker chairs and covered with white and baby-blue tablecloths. The atmosphere is subdued, the antithesis of a trendy Plateau bistro. WINE LIST • Wine prices are reasonable. Unlike many restaurants that double or triple the wine's retail price, La Gaudriole marks up its offerings onl y one and a half times. I know of no other Mon treal establishment where patrons can order Chablis, Sancerre, or a wine such as a Cahors Chateau Lagrezette for less than $40. DON'T MISS • The soups, the grille d marlin, th e lamb tender loin, the deer, the cheese course, and the "caprice de Patrice" for dessert. WORDS TO THE WISE * Despite some ups and down s with th e food, a meal at La Gaudriole is pleasurable. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend thi s neighbourhoo d restauran t t o young gourmets eager to sample artfully arranged, luxurious ingredients in an unpretentious setting. Service is so friendly that you get the feelin g you're eating dinner at a friend's house.

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LA GAUDRIOLE 825 Avenue Laurier East (near St. Hubert) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 276-1580 Web site: www.lagaudriole.com Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.-10 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Main courses with starters included, $19-$33 ; desserts, $4-$12

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LALOUX SNAPSHOT • For over a decade, this "bistro de luxe" has been the haunt of the smart set: literati, politicos, and the odd Quebecoi s vedette. It's also been the ideal setting for the nouvelle cuisine of chef Andre Besson. Laloux's customers come not only for the terrific soups, sauces, fish, and seafood , but als o for the impressive variety of affordable wines . Despite the goo d foo d an d chi c setting, service can sometimes be a bit distant. THE BIG PICTURE • Say the word "Laloux" to any restaurant going Montrealer, and you're bound to get a smile. Not the ready grin of a flirtatious schoolgirl, but a warm smile—the kind tha t appears when one recalls an old flame. The word itself is luxurious, for i t sounds more like a French cheese or a meringue confection than the name of the restaurant's origina l chef, Philippe Laloux. Back in the restaurant's heyday, discoveries were always to be made here : ho t foi e gras , sweetbreads , an d raw-mil k cheeses . Laloux's in-house sommelier s introduced man y to the glories of wines like Chorey-les-Beaune and Pouilly-Fume . Service was always the ideal combination o f friendly, discreet, and professional.

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One couldn't hav e asked for more. Although thes e days the restaurant still appears crowded every night, some complain that the menu hasn't budged over the years. Others say the food is uneven. Sadly, there are even complaints that the service is no longer up to snuff. Diners are still treated t o the traditiona l rameki n o f pate de foie, which is as smooth and delicious a s ever. Indeed, the men u hasn't changed much . Th e cuisine i s still a s elegant an d under stated as the decor—"nouvelle" French, with an emphasis on seafood. Many of che f Besson' s signature dishe s remain : tourt e d e gibier, red snapper supremes, seared scallops, crab ravioli, and assorted bisques. Soups are one of this kitchen's strengths. Both a full-flavoure d lobster bisque , an d a perfectly salted cream of mussel soup garnished with plump, tender mussel s and a julienne of carrot and leek, are sensational. Equally successful is the salmon and scallop ceviche served with a dill, avocado, and tomato salsa. Other standout s includ e swee t an d sou r ginge r di m sum , which offer s wonton-wrappe d dumpling s fille d with crab, pork, veal, carrot, and ginger. The creamy sauce is the ideal accompaniment—the French alternative to the traditional Asian pairing of soy. Sauces at Laloux are consistently excellent ; they are certainly one of Besson's fortes. They're so good, in fact, that they occasionally outshine th e dishes themselves. Take, for example, the tourt e de gibier. The pie's two poivrade sauces—one made with chicken stock and cream, the other with a veal demi-glace—are lush and flavourful, addin g richness to the gamy and spicy taste of the dry, wild-meat fillin g while obscuring a crust that is more soggy than flaky. You' d think the chunky pie's only role was to soak up those wicked sauces. Equally successful ar e the lighter jus sauces. A main course of calf's liver needs no mor e enhancement tha n its own pan juices deglazed with a splash of raspberry vinegar. The meat's texture is velvety, and the raspberry adds a fruity zing. Who'd have suspected liver could be such a treat? Besson's menu favours fish and seafood. Seared scallops served on a mound o f zucchini and tomato cubes are tinged with just a

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hint of coconut. It' s a lovely dish, perfectly prepared, especially the pan-seared scallops, which are buttery and meltingly tender. The red snapper is also outstanding. Expertly cooked and toppe d with a sauce tinged wit h sherry , this simple dish , served with a thin tomato tart, holds its own next to many flashier concoctions. Desserts, al l mad e in-house , hav e always been stellar . Th e bistro favourite , oeuf a la neige, is light, sweet, and reassuringl y gooey. "Le Grand Dessert" offers a large sampling of Besson's best: vanilla and carame l ice cream, pistachio an d cherr y iced parfait, gianduja mousse , and a gateau Mont Roya l filled with raspberry ganache. That the foo d a t Laloux is still good is no surprise . That th e service has fallen from friendl y and top-notc h to confuse d an d perfunctory i s a bit of a mystery. There i s often n o maltr e d' o n hand to orchestrate the goings-on, waits between courses are far too long, and the sommelie r i s aloof enoug h t o mak e you consider drinking water with your meal. Sullen expressions are everywhere. Faced with the indifference of the staff, you might end up pouring your own wine. Try not to take it personally. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Andre Besson. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • This is one o f Montreal's most beautiful dining rooms: yellow walls hung with large, dark-greenframed mirrors , blac k bistro chairs , cris p white linen-covered tables, and jazzy background music. The overall effect i s chic yet soothing. WINE LIST • Complementing th e foo d is a wine list offering a n incredible choic e of fairl y priced , interestin g bottles, man y privately imported. DON'T MISS • The hot foie gras, the fish and seafood, the calf' s liver, and Le Grand Dessert. WORDS TO THE WISE • Service problems aside, Laloux retains a perfume o f French sophistication. Th e quality of the foo d ha s not waned, and the setting is as chic as it gets.

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LALOUX 250 Avenue des Pins East (near Laval) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 287-9127 Web site: www.laloux.com Open: Lunch, noon-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner , 5:30 P.M.- 10:30 P.M., Sunday to Wednesday, and 5:3 0 P.M.11:30 P.M., Thursday to Saturda y Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: Major card s Price range: Starters, $5-$22; main courses, $24-$38; desserts, $5-$12.75

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LA RAPIER E SNAPSHOT • With traditiona l dishe s fro m th e southwester n French provinc e o f Gascogne, a dining roo m tha t coul d b e described as the epitome of understated elegance , and formal, friendly service, La Rapiere remains, after close to 30 years in business , one o f Montreal's bes t Frenc h restaurants , a n "haute temple d e gastronomic." This is the place for subdued celebratory meals and romantic anniversar y dinners, a s well as for entertaining out-of town guests eager to experience the glories of a civilized meal. THE BIG PICTURE • The past decade has been rough for classical French cuisine. There are many misconceptions abou t French restaurants tha t ma y have turned customers , especially younger ones, away . First, the idea that Frenc h restaurants are expensive . True—a meal laced with foie gras, tournedos, and various forms of duc k ca n b e costly . Yet many o f th e city' s newe r restaurant s have been quietly raising their a la carte prices while French restaurant prices have hardly budged. Second, the notion that French food i s intimidating. False . Classical Frenc h cuisine , which ma y

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have onc e seemed complicate d an d fussy , i s tame compare d t o many of today' s elaborat e fusion-styl e concoctions. Third , th e perception that French restaurants are formal and stuffy. Possibly. Today's French restaurants have retained their sense of pride and professionalism, qualities sorely lacking in many of the city's popular high-end restaurants. But French restaurants have adapted to the time s b y becoming more accommodating , ofte n spicin g u p their classic menus and succumbing to casual dress codes to draw the modern diner . La Rapiere's menu feature s traditional dishes from the south western province of Gascogne, known for its potted meats, pate's, cep mushrooms, Bayonn e ham, and duc k and goos e specialties, including smoked magret (breast), confit (leg) , and foie gras. Incidentally, Gascogne is the homeland of D'Artagnan, the dashing musketeer, ofte n depicte d wit h a long, slende r "rapiere" in hi s hand—hence the name of the restaurant . What more appropriate way could there be to start off a meal in this house than with an appetizer of smoked goose breast? The strong-flavoured goose meat (smoked on the premises) is served fanned ou t i n a dozen paper-thin slice s with a salad so perfectly dressed you'll wish there was twice as much. A portion o f duck foie gras terrine is delicate, just a bit ros£ , though the surrounding port aspi c has little port flavour. A puffpastry cushion fille d with snails and thin strips of Bayonne ham sounds tempting, but the dish turns out to be bland an d underseasoned. The accompanying sauce is served lukewarm and only tastes creamy. Main course s are superb. A Dover sole meunier e i s expertly filleted by the waiter at a side table. The lightly fried fish is served with a rich brown-butte r sauce , a turned boile d potato , carro t slices, fanned zucchini, and a velvety turnip flan. The sole is perfectly cooked—delicate and firm—and it has a delectable buttery flavour. Equally delicious i s the magre t e t confi t d e canar d a 1'aigre doux. The dark brown, glistening confit falls away from the bone at the slightest touch of a fork. The sliced magret comes from th e same bird, but it tastes completely different. It has crisp skin and rosy flesh, and it's accompanied by a tangy sweet and sour sauce.

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One o f La Rapiere's specialties is cassoulet. Skilfully served by the waiter from a small earthenware pot ( a "cassole," from which the dish' s name i s derived), this delicious pil e o f tende r whit e haricot beans, cooked preserved pork rind, duck confit, and garlic and Toulouse sausages is bursting with rich and intens e flavour. Since it contains no mutton, aficionados would consider this the Castelnaudary, as opposed to the Carcassone or the Toulouse, variety. Whatever its lineage, the taste is sublime. Who can resist a cheese course, especially when it's presented by someone a s charming as the patronn e o f this establishment , Mme. Lise Naud? Among the imported raw-milk cheeses that arrive at our table are Munster, Petit Livarot, Double Creme, and a goat's cheese. Desserts here are classic French. A small, cake-shaped nougat glace is filled with a generous handful of candied fruit and served with a ladle o f custard crea m tha t i s decoratively swirle d wit h raspberry coulis . Surprisingly, the crem e brulee i s served hot . Creme brulee should be served cold—that's the rule . Nonethe less, this version is so scrumptious, you'll hardly care. Service at La Rapiere is outstanding. From the skilfu l bonin g of the Dover sole to the knowledgeable wine service (even to the way the bill is presented—discreetly, at the elbow of the only man at th e table), the excellen t waiters stand a s shining examples of what the service aspect of a fine dining experience should be. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Denis Periau. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Tucked away in a corner o f th e Sun Life Building since moving from it s original location on Rue Stanley severa l years ago, this elegan t room , with it s tasselle d hanging lamps, terra cotta-coloured walls , large stained-glas s windows, ornate tapestry, and proper dinin g chairs, is the epit ome of understated French style. The bar sparkles like a jewel; one can imagine F. Scott Fitzgerald and th e Smart Set there, sipping Gimlets and Sidecars. WINE LIST» The list includes a wide selection o f mid- to highpriced French wines and a small, but good, choice of half bottles.

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DON'T MISS • The duck (foi e gras , confit, o r magret), the sol e meuniere, the cassoulet, and the cheese course. WORDS TO THE WISE • At a time whe n th e designer-cla d masses pile into loud restaurant s serving exotic cuisine an d th e fickle foodies seek out th e newest chefs, many of the city's gourmets quietly continue to frequent Montreal' s formal French restaurants. La Rapiere ha s bee n a n outstandin g exampl e o f thi s genre since it opened it s doors in 1974 . As you watch the tuxe doed waiters quietly go about their duties, you'll realize that this is one of the most civilized dining rooms around. LA RAPIERE 1155 Rue Metcalfe (in the Sun Life Building) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 871-8920 Open: Lunch, noon-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M. -10 P.M., Monday to Friday, and 5:30 P.M.- 10 P.M., Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $4.50-$12.75; main courses, $22.75$32.25; desserts, $3.75-$6.25; three-course table d'hdte menu, $20.75-$32.25

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LARMORICAIN SNAPSHOT • You might be surprised to find a crowded restaurant nestled amon g the sleepy streets of Montreal East near th e Jacques Cartier Bridge. Yet L'Armoricain is a long-established favourite, especially with the Radio Canada crowd, many of whom have their pictures hanging on the restaurant's walls. The diverse menu includes three tasting menus and an extensive table d'hote listing cream soups, homemade terrines, goat's cheese salads laced

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with nu t oil , sauteed meats with wine sauces, and classic French desserts. Service is solicitous but ca n be slow on crowded nights . On weekends, there's live guitar music. THE BIG PICTURE • Imagine this: You're at L'Armoricain on a busy Saturday night. The place is packed. Waitresses bustle to and fro whil e a bespectacled waiter weaves his way expertly through the maze of tables to deliver bottles of wine to patrons sporting ties or bijoux, as the case may be. A guitarist stands near the entrance intoning a familiar Jacque s Brel song , th e strain s o f his musi c mingling with the sounds emanating from th e kitchen. In spite of the real sense of hard work and energy in this room, service can be slow in this restaurant ( I once waited close to hour between th e en d o f a meal an d th e arriva l of dessert) . Starters, however, tend to arrive promptly. Especially notable are the escargots, the smoked salmon, and the celery root salad. Paired with a creamy goat's cheese sauce and a triangle of puff pastry, the escargot s are large, meaty, and a s soft an d resilien t a s cooked mussels—som e of the bes t I'v e eve r tasted. Th e velvety slice of smoke d salmo n i s accompanied b y two round s o f a superb salmon tartare (describe d on th e menu a s "rillettes"), each of which is rolled and slice d into rounds. Also top-drawer is the celery root salad, a melting and ideally seasoned dish that comes studded with raisins. Another starter worth sampling is the cream of vegetable soup. Chock full of butternut squash and herbs, it has the perfect spoon-coating consistency. A main cours e of Alsatian choucroute include s roasted pork , thick bacon , an d variou s sausages . The mea t i s served ato p a mound o f mild marinate d cabbag e flavoure d wit h juniper, the whole surrounded by new potatoes and a ramekin of Dijon mustard. Although light o n th e seasonings , thi s i s a pleasant dish , marred onl y by the wiener, which taste s n o differen t tha n you r average ballpark frank . A seared filet mignon serve d with bacon-wrapped roaste d asparagus doesn't fare much better in the flavour department, as the meat has an overly soft textur e an d lacks that appealing charred crust.

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A filet of St. Pierre turns ou t t o be the best of the mains, for the fish has a firm and moist texture, and the requisite fres h flavour. Best of all are the accompaniments: the oil, herb, and tomato concasse "sauce vierge" atop the fish, and the sugar snap peas, red cabbage pure'e, carrot flan, and pearl barley alongside. Desserts could use some attention. The profiteroles tend to be dry and are covered with a gummy chocolate sauce. With a crfipe wrapping as thick as a wool blanket, the appl e pannequet i s another disappointment. Try instead the pear tart with spiced caramel sauce, which is good if a little on the sweet side. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Stephane Mougeau. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The bright yeUow dining room is decorated with fau x finishes, grand drapes, and Frenc h countr y furnishings. Diner s include mostl y fiftysomethings, the kin d of faithful customer s who dine out in fours and favour solid French food an d nam e recognition ove r esoteri c ingredient s and valet parking. WINE LIST • The wine list comprises predictable French bottles with many selections in the $50 range. There's a second short list of rare and pricey Burgundies and Bordeaux for oenophiles who wouldn't be caught dead drinking last year's Beaujolais Nouveau. DON'T MISS • The escargots, the salmo n plate , the celer y root salad, the cream of vegetable soup, and the filet of St. Pierre. WORDS TO THE WISE • Though L'Armoricai n i s the typ e o f restaurant tha t attract s a crowd of regulars , newcomers shoul d also feel at home. Keep in mind, however, that this isn't the best choice for the gourmet set. Rather, it's a place for bon vivants who relish a few chansons with their escargots.

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L'ARMORICAIN

1550 Ru e Fullum (near de Maisonneuve) Location: East of city centre Telephone: (514) 523-2551 Web site: www.armoricain.com Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.—2 P.M., Monda y to Friday; dinner, 5 P.M.-9:30 P.M., Monda y to Thursday, 5 P.M.-10 P.M. , Friday, and 5 P.M.-10:30 P.M., Saturda y Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Three-course table d'hdte menu, $14.95-$32.95; five-course table d'hote menu, $39.95 ; desserts, $4.95-$9.95

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L'AUTRE SAISO N SNAPSHOT • Much has change d sinc e L'Autre Saison's lunch counter days in the seventies. The Rue Crescent location has moved twice, the decor has evolved from Stevie Nicks to Marie Antoinette, and fancy salads are no longer the main event. Today's menu features French haute cuisine, with a wide choice of classics such as onion soup, filet mignon bearnaise, rack of lamb, and salmon with hollandaise sauce. What's commendable here is the use of superb ingredients and a fine grasp of seasoning and flavour. The downside is the cost, which runs high—even considering the high quality of the ingredients. THE BIG PICTURE -Dinner at L'Autre Saison begins with a plate of bruschett a serve d with olives , carrot sticks , and a mound o f decorative lettuce . Th e cube d tomatoe s ar e ripe, perfectl y seasoned, and enlivened with a generous dose of herbs. A first course of piping-ho t crea m o f watercress sou p i s also ideally seasoned ,

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the bowl filled with pungent and fresh watercress leaves that add a peppery crunch to every mouthful. The other starter s are just as satisfying. Th e confit d e canard with raspberry vinegar is particularly delicious. The duck leg has the requisite crisp skin and moist, melting texture. The taste is not overly salty or greasy, and th e shot of raspberry vinegar provides a welcome acidic note to cut through the richness of the dish. It also provides a good dressing for the impressive array of greens— radicchio, endive, watercress—served alongside . A lighter optio n i s the grille d oyster mushroo m an d octopu s salad, which has a fresh flavour and fine vinaigrette. The mushrooms and octopus are both tender, and the portion i s ideal. Chef Alain Boucher's talents are perhaps best displayed by the house patd. The smooth liver is mixed with green peppercorns and bits of porcini mushroom an d truffles, resultin g in a spread that's good enough to enjoy without bread. Main courses are simple and again masterfully cooked and seasoned. The grilled salmon filet is moist and translucent in the centre, with a pronounced smoky flavour that takes the rich edge off the fish. Sliced filet of caribou offers an intense beef-meets-lamb flavour. Served with a red wine, juniper berry, and mandarin liqueur sauce, the filet is rounded of f with pommes boulangeres, asparagus, and sliced carrots. The pan-seared veal filet with a wild mushroom cream sauce is less successful. The portion is generous but th e veal tastes bland, even with the accompanying morel cream sauce. Desserts are fine, if pricey by Montreal standards. A small creme brulee, though correct in its creamy consistency, has little flavour. A generous portion of berries—raspberries, strawberries, blueberries—is arranged in a beautiful glass coupe around a scoop of what tastes like commercial ice cream. The Grand Marnier souffle ha s a pleasant frothy texture but tastes more of alcohol than of orange— a disappointment considerin g th e $16.5 0 pric e ta g and the 20minute wait. Although servic e is friendly, menu description s ca n be shaky and the waiters tend to hover unnecessarily.

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IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Alain Boucher. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • L'Autre Saison is divided into two rooms. Th e first is dominated b y a long bar an d a baby gran d piano. The second room, located in the front of the townhouse, is very fancy—verging on garish—with gold-leafed mirrors, Dori c columns, oil paintings, pink chairs and tablecloths, numerous chandeliers, and a large bay window overlooking Rue Crescent. WINE LIST«The wine list is a weak point, with a majority of bottles in the high triple digits, and a paltry selection of bottles under $50. There is only one half bottle available and only one red wine by the glass. DON'T MISS • The octopus salad, the homemade pate, the confi t de canard, the caribou, the grilled salmon, and the fruit desserts . WORDS TO THE WISE • On the whole, L'Autre Saison is a good French restaurant with an appealingly familiar formula. Yet, there's no missing the high prices. Also, for a restaurant in this league, one does not expect to see foil-wrapped butter and, come tisane time, Lipton tea bags. Yes, the food passes with flying colours, but there are glitches here that fail to complete the pretty picture. L'AUTRE SAISON 2137 Rue Crescent (nea r Sherbrooke) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 845-0058 Open: 1 1 A.M.-11 P.M., Monday to Friday, and 5 P.M.-11 P.M., Saturday and Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $4.50-$18.50; main courses, $16.50$38.50; desserts, $7.50-$16.50

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LAVIELLE HISTOIR E SNAPSHOT • La Vielle Histoire is a restaurant that can be summed up i n on e word: reliable. That reliability , which is perhaps best described a s professionalism, has been 2 0 years in th e making . Owners Robin Dufour and Carole Tremblay have a "long history" together (henc e the name , La Vielle Histoire), firs t dreamin g of owning a restaurant, followed by transforming an 1835 Ste. Rose farmhouse into one of Laval's most beloved bring-your-own-wine dining establishments . The classic French menu, more nouvelle than stodgy, changes with the seasons. Though a la carte is an option, ordering a full menu—especiall y the five-course menu d e degustation—is by far the better deal. THE BIG PICTURE • Entering La Vielle Histoire, on e immedi ately feels tha t grea t sense of comfort you get when dining in a historic-house setting . This isn't the restaurant for those looking for the wow factor in their food. This is the place for a dependable evening of fine French food paired with the best wines. In true French style, the meal begins with soup, such as a cucumber sou p laced with mint and served cold, or one more autumnal in style, such as the veloute de gibier, a velvety cream soup with a gamy flavour enhanced with nuggets of game meat. The next course offers more gamy French flavours. Made with deer meat, the house terrine is chunky and lean. Served alongside is a tangy chopped salad and a spoonful of chutney enlivened with cinnamon. As expected , foie gra s is featured o n th e men u an d her e it' s paired with smoked duck breast sliced carpaccio thin. The liver is buttery smooth an d subtle in flavour. The only off note is an accompanying pool of overwhelmingly sweet red jam. La Vielle Histoire follows the commo n French practice of offering a palate-cleansing sorbet (tro u Normand) midmeal. Here there's a choice of three winners: cranberry-brandy, pink grape fruit-vodka, an d the traditional apple-calvados .

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Main course s continu e o n a high note . The rac k o f lamb is served with a goat's cheese-topped tomato an d a vegetable sauce that tastes like pureed ratatouille. Equally delicious is deer served with a blueberry sauce. The meat is chewier than the lamb, bu t what i t lack s i n tenderness , i t mor e tha n make s up fo r i n th e flavour department. If tender is what you're after, try the pork filet with leek sauce. The meat is moist and cooked just beyond ros£, as good pork filet should be. The mild sauce complements rathe r than overwhelms the meat. Each of the main courses arrives with a side dish of vegetables including a delicate carrot flan , a square o f scallope d potatoes , and fresh green beans. If you'r e stil l starin g dow n hal f a bottle o f win e afte r th e mains, conside r optin g fo r th e chees e course , which include s a good selection of local and imported cheeses. The best of the desserts is the tarte Tatin top d with ice cream. The cheesecake, the crumbly baked variety, is unfortunately topped with an insipid cherry sauce. And the "assortiment du chef" is an odd mix of various coulis, ice creams, and chocolate cakes. The wait staff , unde r th e directio n o f dinin g roo m manage r Andre Lachapelle, take obvious pride in their work/By midmeal you're sure to have picked up on little details like the perfect tim ing of the dishes , the replenishin g of the bread basket, an d th e waiter offering to open your red wine in advance to let it breathe. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and co-owner Carole Tremblay. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The space is divided into several rooms, all decorated wit h French Canadian furnitur e and paint ings depicting country scenes. The lights are low and the classical music wafting in the background adds serenity to the surround ings. Even when the room i s full, noise levels rarely rise above a hum. WINE LIST • Bring your own wine.

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DON'T MISS • The soups, the hous e terrine, the foi e gras , the lamb, the pork filet, and the tarte Tatin. WORDS TO THE WISE • Be warned that a 60-seat bring-yourown-wine restaurant of this calibre is sure to have a following, so reservations are a must. Also, as this restaurant is a bit of a drive for mos t Montrealers, be sure there's a designated driver in your party. LAVIELLEHISTOIRE 284 Boulevard Ste. Rose Location: Ste. Rose, Laval Telephone: (450) 625-0379 Web site: www.vielle-histoire.qc.ca Open: 6 P.M.- 10 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $4.75-$12.75; main courses, $25.75$29.75; desserts, $6.75-$7.50; three-course table d'hdte menu, $33.75; five-course menu de degustation, $39.75

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LEAU A L A BOUCHE SNAPSHOT • It is at this lovely hotel/restaurant in the Laurentian Mountains that renowned Quebec chef Anne Desjardins has developed he r signatur e bran d o f regiona l cuisin e usin g the bes t local produce. The simple country settin g includes a beautiful garden next to the restaurant that supplies the kitchen with fres h herbs and vegetables. As with all Relais & Chateau properties, here you can expect fabulous food, solicitous service, and an extensive wine list—all at a price, of course .

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THE BI G PICTURE • There ar e but a handful o f Quebec chef s whom restaurant-goers kno w by name, and only one of them is a woman: Anne Desjardins. Quebec foodies are big fans of Desjardins's, having voted he r restaurant , L'Ea u a la Bouche, "Best i n Montreal and Vicinity" in a Gourmet magazine poll from 199 6 to 1998. In that same magazine, chef Desjardins has been described as "a passionate advocat e of regionality," and "an innovator wit h an allegiance to regional cooking." Such heady acclaim, bolstered by the establishment's membershi p i n the luxury Relais & Chateaux hotel and restaurant chain , ensures that expectations for a meal at L'Eau a la Bouche are high. One look at the menu confirms chef Desjardins's profile. Her market cuisine includes Quebec's finest : squab from Bellechasse , red dee r fro m Boileau , hydromel hone y wine, a s well as locally produced foi e gra s and raw-mil k cheeses. Also prominently featured are fresh herbs and edible flowers from a garden a few steps from th e kitchen. Look no furthe r tha n a summertime amuse bouche of homegrown zucchin i blossoms fille d with local goat's cheese for your first glimpse of her simple, ingredient-based style. Starters include salmon tartare, sauteed wild mushrooms, and roasted breast of squab. All three are superb. The tartare consists of cubes of ultrafresh ra w salmon seasoned with wild ginger and mustard. Th e mi x i s shaped int o thre e large , perfectly forme d quenelles and placed besid e squiggles of seedy mustard dressing and a sala d o f salt y marsh green s (samfire ) an d purslane . Th e sauteed mushroom s includ e chanterelle s and shiitake s serve d with a cream-based sherry sauce; the whole is topped with a single goat's chees e ravioli. The roaste d breas t of squab i s set on a row of green beans and surrounded by a full-flavoured reductio n sauce. The mea t i s heavenly, both crispy-skinned an d medium rare. The onl y complaint i s that the portio n i s small for it s $22 price. Tak e off a few green beans, an d you' d b e lookin g a t a n amuse-bouche. Two of the main courses, scallops pan-seared a 1'unilateral (on one side ) an d lowe r St . Laurent lam b cooke d i n tw o ways, are outstanding—fine example s of the talen t o f this kitchen . Seven medium-sized scallops are perfectly caramelized on one side and placed aroun d a mound o f sautee d chanterelles . Th e dis h i s

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topped with marsh samfire and enhanced with a ginger-mushroom emulsion. Th e scallop s an d mushroom s hav e the sam e tende r consistency. The sea, the earth , and th e exotic flavours coalesce , and every bite offers unique tastes—a mouthwatering dish if ever there was one. The lam b i s equally divine. Serve d with baby squas h an d a miniature ratatouille, the two roasted rack chops are toothsome and full flavoured ( a real treat, given that Quebec lamb is so often bland). The braised leg is a revelation. Here is meat as tender and melting as a confit of duck. And it's not onl y perfectly seasoned, but als o ideally enhanced with a garlic-rosemary sauce. A dish of roasted Boileau venison includes two slices cut fro m the loi n accompanie d b y a single yellow carrot, wild rice mixed with corn, sauteed sour red cherries, and a sauce made with hydromel Cuve'e du Diable. This dish plays right into the restaurant's style, as every ingredient reflects Desjardins's commitment to regional cuisine. Those up for cheese should be warned that it's offered o n the set menu in lieu of dessert (or a la carte for an extra $12.50). As for the desserts , there's a hydromel creme bruise with a perfecdy caramelized topping and a small assortment of summer berries. Once again, the portion is skimpy, and the flavouring — the hone y wine—while well suited t o man y recipes, gives the cream a peculiar taste. A marzipan tart is far more satisfying. It's lined with rhubarb pulp and topped with a golden puff o f baked almond cream. Alongside is a scoop of sour, milk-based rhubar b sorbet and a sweet white-chocolate mousse . L'Eau a la Douche's wait staff i s both gracious and solicitous . The sommeliere is especially helpful, pointing ou t excellen t bottles within one's budget or recommending wines by the glass. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and co-owner Anne Desjardins. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The main dining room has large windows, woo d panelling , an d Dijo n mustard-coloure d walls . The ceiling is covered in panels of burgundy-flowered fabric. The setting is country quaint, with appropriately casual decor. Highbacked green-and-black chairs add a n odd touc h o f modernity.

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WINE LIST«Wine lovers are well served at L'Eau a la Bouche. Not only does the wine list offer a n impressive selection o f the finest French, Italian, and California n wine s (amon g others), but als o the wait staff i s adept a t pairing food and wine. There's als o the "menu decouverte, " a multicourse tasting men u featurin g wines from a given region, such as Bordeaux or the Napa Valley. DON'T MISS • The salmon tartare, the sauteed wild mushrooms , the roasted squab, the seared scallops, the lamb, and the marzipan tart. WORDS TO THE WISE - L'Ea u a la Bouche' s rav e reviews ar e merited. Ann e Desjardins is obviously passionate abou t he r in gredients, which she uses most thoughtfully. There is, however, a problem with the price-to-portion ratio , and there are occasional lapses in service. Nonetheless, this kitchen hits many high notes , and i n today' s competitiv e worl d o f upscal e restaurants , that' s worth applauding. L'EAU A LA BOUCHE 3003 Boulevard Ste. Adele Location: Ste. Adele Telephone: (450) 229-2991 Web site: www.leaualabouche.com Open: 6 P.M.-9 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $21-S32; main courses, $36-$46; desserts, $12.50; six-course food and wine "decouverte " menu, $140

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LE BEAR N SNAPSHOT • Perched just above C6te Ste. Catherine on C6te des Neiges, Le Beam, celebrated its twenty-fifth anniversar y in 2003. Owner Marie-Claude Lemaire and chef Franck Morant offer clas sic French cuisine comprised o f familiar soups, salads, and grilled fish and meats, including organ meats such as kidneys, calves' liver, and sweetbreads. More French comfort food than haut e cuisine, it's th e idea l choic e fo r those col d winte r night s when a hearty French meal, paired with a bottle of Bordeaux, is just as satisfying as a midsummer barbecue. THE BIG PICTURE • Homey Frenc h meal s ofte n star t wit h a bowl of soup. At Le Beam there are several choices, one of which is the cream of asparagus soup. Asparagus preparations are best in season—spring and early summer—but this soup is wintry: piping hot, with a marked herbaceous flavour, and, with the addition of a quenelle of cream and crab meat, rich. Another French standby is parfait d e foie d e volaille. Here it follows traditio n wit h an accompaniment o f onion marmalade . In contrast to such classics starters come a red pepper bavarian and ravioli with sage butter. Served cold o n a parsley sauce with sauteed shrimp, the pink bavarian has a bright, sweet taste and a silky texture. Its accompanying shrimp, however, are tough an d practically tasteless, adding little more than a contrasting mout h feel. The ravioli dish includes four pasta piEows stuffed with plain Ricotta. The whole affai r woul d b e lackluster i f not fo r a vivid tomato concass e and a potent—make that jolting—sage butter. Classic French cuisine revolves around sauces, and afte r a few bites of the main courses it's obvious sauces are one of Le Beam's strengths. Underneath a honey sauce and sprinkling of almonds, one can make out grill marks on veal medallions, which give the meat a subtle smoky flavour that works well with the sweet sauce. Trout, grilled to the ideal melting-yet-firm consistency , is given a

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boost of elegance thanks to a light and lemony cream sauce. And a generou s servin g of file t mignon , cooke d medium-rare , is smothered in sauteed mushrooms and a rich Port sauce. The vegetable accompaniments—a velvety celery root flan an d a rosette of whipped blue potatoes—maybe old-fashioned, but in this setting, appropriate . Desserts are all homemade and very French, with nary a creme brulee i n sight. A chocolate-caramel mouss e cake has the righ t gooey texture and pleasant flavour, though a better-quality chocolate would take it up a notch. Better yet is a sweet Mont Blanc ice cream served on a pool of dark chocolate sauce. The best of the lot is a frozen strawberr y parfait wit h hazelnu t cak e topped wit h a squiggle of coulis, which scores high on berry flavour. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Franck Morant. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • It's all very retro, sort of like Le Paris meets A la Crepe Bretonne, but you'l l b e happy seate d i n this narrow bright room , painte d white and sunn y yellow, with close-set table s draped i n white-and-re d tablecloth s an d Fran k Sinatra tunes playing in the background. WINE LIST • Le Beam's French-onl y wine list lacks selections outside Burgundy or Bordeaux, but again, this classic, play-it-safe collection somehow fits the setting, DON'T MISS • The grilled fish and meats (the organ meats are a specialty), and the desserts. WORDS TO THE WISE • Dinner a t Le Beam may be fa r fro m revolutionary, but there' s no denyin g a trip back in time is a refreshing change from al l the fusio n food , black-clad waiters, and minimalist, blond-wood decor that has come to dominate Montreal's restaurant scene. Though the glamour may have faded, this establishment more than makes up for it in satisfaction and comfort. This is a great place to bring parents who tend to enjoy reminiscing about the old days.

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LE BEARN

5613 Cote des Neiges (near C6te Ste. Catherine) Location: North of city centre, in C6te des Neiges Telephone: (514) 733-4102 Open: Lunch, noon-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.-11 P.M., Monday to Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $3.95-$14.95; main courses, $16.95$26.95; desserts, $4.95-$6.95

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LE CAVEAU SNAPSHOT • A Montreal institution since 1949, this three-store y restaurant, popular with the conservative downtown crow d an d local university professors, offers cuisin e bourgeoise in a charming French-parlour setting. The menu includes traditional dishe s like lobste r bisque , sol e meuniere , and entrecot e bordelaise . Though service tends to be brisk, it is unfailingly courteous. THE BIG PICTURE • The humble restauran t appear s to carry a stigma these days. Increasingly, fashionable eating spaces bill themselves a s bistros, brasseries, grills , eateries , win e bars, or cafe's ; many favour th e coo l look o f art galleries , decorator boutiques , and clothing stores. Of course, one understands the public's hunger for al l things new and exciting. Yet, so quickly has the restauran t concept changed in the past decade that when you enter the dining room of Le Caveau, you won't believe your eyes. Here's the real deal: a n enchanting , old-fashione d Frenc h restaurant , almos t a parody of the genre , uncommon enoug h o n today's dining-out landscape to look new—even bold. In business for over 50 years, Le Caveau is one of those downtown restaurant s often referre d to a s an institution . Aside fro m

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the fact that it creates an authentic French atmosphere, the secret of its success appears to lie in a style of French cooking known as "cuisine bourgeoise," which includes traditional dishe s such cassoulet, rack of lamb, and escargots. After seeing countless culinary concoctions serve d with quirk y sauces , oven-drie d vegetables , and mashe d potatoes enhance d wit h everything but th e kitche n sink, it's refreshing to see a piece of meat garnished with nothing more than a bouquet of watercress. A fine start to a meal at Le Caveau is one of the many soups. A steaming bowl of cream of cauliflower soup is perfectly seasoned and offer s a pronounced cauliflowe r flavou r (cauliflowe r sou p is so ofte n cream y and insipid) . Th e gratine'e d onio n sou p ha s a tangy Gruyere topping, deeply caramelized onions, and a generous dose of thyme. A vegetable soup, loaded with lentils, carrots, and celery, is heartier tha n most Italian minestrones. Only an excessively salty duck consomm e fall s short , though it s two larg e duck ravioles are meaty and delicious . Simple sala d starters ar e equall y appealing. An endiv e an d Roquefort duo combines pungent salty cheese and refreshing bitter leaves—ideall y matched wit h a glass o f fruit y Chardonnay . The classic Chevre chaud consists of a large crouton topped with mild goat's cheese and toasted slivered almonds surrounded by a mixed salad. The most adventurous salad offers tende r strips of intensely flavoured , medium-rar e har e mea t an d saute'e d chan terelle mushrooms on a bed of crisp greens. Main courses arrive in minutes. A small lidded pot i s uncovered to reveal a golden crumb crus t ato p what turns out to be a pasty—as opposed to creamy—cassoulet. The overcooked haricot beans o n th e to p hav e formed a kind o f porridge, encasing pieces of garlic sausage, Toulouse sausage, and duck . Thankfully , the bean s a t the botto m o f the dis h ar e less mushy. But what's lacking here is a richness of flavour—more herbs , garlic, and a touch of tomato are needed before one could include this version in one's personal pantheon of memorable cassoulets. Two meat dishes—carr e d'agneau and tournedo s bordelais e —will take you straight to the pages of Jacques Pepin's and Julia Child's firs t cookbooks . Th e rac k o f lamb , serve d whol e an d coated i n a herbed crum b crust, is succulent and cooke d to th e

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ideal rose. A single large tournedos accompanied by slices of garlic toast is a bit on the dry side, and it's served with a bordelaise sauce better describe d a s "bordelaise light. " Both mea t dishe s come wit h a side dish o f seasona l vegetables: a l dent e Brussel s sprouts, buttery spaghetti squash, and sauteed sliced potatoes. This kitchen does occasionally take a walk on the wild side. A generous portion o f scallops and shrimp i s served in and around a tulip-shaped tuil e set on a mound of linguini and topped with a handful of deep-fried rice noodles. Although the seafood is fresh and tender , the tomat o sauce , enhanced wit h fenne l an d pastis , has a thin consistency and an underlying sweet flavour—not bad, just different . Bette r still is the delicat e pan-fried halibut, which has a spicy paprika crust and is served with rice, sauteed onions, spinach, an d a slice of eggplant . Desserts come up short. A homey-looking slic e of sugar pie is alarmingly sweet, as is the meringue topping on a slice of lemon meringue pie. An orange creme bruise is a total failure , for it has an unappealing curdled consistency and lacks a firm caramel topping. Unless you insist on a sugar fix at the end of a meal, stick to the excellent coffee an d the cassis liqueur-filled chocolat e hearts offered on the house. Service is smooth and efficient . Though speedy service has its benefits (al l the dishe s arriv e piping hot) , th e rus h leave s little time for wine and water glasses to be refilled and cutlery to be replaced. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Frank Laroche. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The settin g resembles a French family-run hote l dinin g room . The waiters ar e decked ou t i n black vests , bo w ties, an d floor-lengt h aprons . Whit e linen covered tables , adorne d wit h smal l lamp s wit h pleate d shade s askew, fill a square parlour decorate d wit h flowered wallpaper, gold-framed oi l paintings, and a grandfather clock. The crowd is mixed: couple s young and old , large families, groups o f friends , and tweedy university types. As the evening progresses, conversation levels pick up considerably, offering a welcome buzz to thi s romantic, low-lit room .

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WINE LIST • The wine list is short and French, with interesting , well-priced selection s a t many price points. Only two wines are available by the glass, but bot h are of high quality and relatively inexpensive (under $7). DON'T MISS • The soups, the salads , the rack of lamb, and the pan-fried halibut. WORDS TO THE WISE • Dwarfed by the surrounding chrome and-glass towers o f downtown Montreal , L e Caveau has a comfortable atmosphere wel l suited to occasions such as the intimate te'te-a-te'te, the two-coupl e thing , o r th e let's-impress-the-clien t lunch. If you're a traditionalist who pines for the Gallic way of life and rhapsodize s about unpretentiou s cuisine , this charming establishment wil l be hard to beat. LE CAVEAU 2063 Rue Victoria (near President Kennedy) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 844-1624 Open: 11:3 0 A.M.-ll P.M. , Monday to Friday; and 5:0 0 P.M.— 11 P.M., Saturday and Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $4.50-$21.50; main courses, $16-$41; desserts, $4.95-$6.95; table d'hote menu, $13.50-$27.95

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LE CHRYSANTHEME SNAPSHOT • The high qualit y of the far e a t Le Chrysantheme should com e as no surprise, as this is the sister restaurant of the city's best Chinese establishment, L'Orchidee de Chine. The Szechwan an d Cantones e dishe s her e ar e utterly delicious , prepared with first-rat e ingredients, an d beautifull y presented. Th e onl y shortcoming is the heat factor: food rated spicy on the menu may be a bit tame for adventurous palates. Though there's an air of sophistication abou t this restaurant, the ambience and service can be a bit cold. THE BIG PICTURE • "Restaurant food used to be so elaborate," opined a chef friend between mouthfuls o f his scallop and sweet corn soup. "What most restaurants are serving today is no more than gussied-up comfort food, not all that different from what we usually eat at home." He's right, of course, and his wife and I nodded in approval as we downed our ow n bowls of soup: classic hot an d sour , laden with strips of chicken, mushrooms, and tofu suspended in a thick, spicy broth; and crab and asparagus, chock full of white asparagus and swee t crab. But how many of us, I asked, are making soups like this at home? Not many, we concluded; probably just those of Chinese heritag e who were fortunate enoug h t o hav e inherite d the family recipes, or skilled amateur cooks with a particular in terest in Chinese or Szechwari cuisine. All this soup (and foodie talk) was the prelude to a recent meal at Le Chrysantheme. The soups, which were hot, made with fine ingredients, and richly flavoured, turned out to be as satisfying as the othe r appetizer s sampled: lamb dumplings , por k wontons , vegetable spring rolls, and five-flavoured spareribs. Bathed i n a spicy garlic sauce, the thin-skinne d dumpling s were wrapped around lam b forcemeat that had distinct textur e and flavour, a welcome change from the usual dull and pasty meat

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fillings. The delicate pork wonton raviolis arrived in a pool of ginger soy sauce with a peppery taste that lingered on the lips. The spring rolls, as skilfully rolled a s Cuban cigars, came packed with a julienne of fresh vegetables , and the y were not i n the least bit greasy. Also delicious wer e the crisp y five-flavoured spareribs . Though the boned meat was a bit stringy—more dry than succulent—every chew y morsel wa s enlivened wit h aromati c spice s (anise, cinnamon, fennel seeds, cloves, and Szechwan pepper), and the cris p ski n crackle d unde r th e teeth . Indeed, fe w of u s ar e preparing such complex dishes at home. In keeping with the excellence of the appetizers, main courses also scored high. We devoured a generous bowl of shrimp served in a light so y sauce strewn with basil leaves and snow peas. Another predictable winner was the General Tao's chicken. The large pieces of breast meat were moist, crisp, and ever-so-lightly breaded, and the sauce was tangy without being gooey or overly sweet, like so many inferior versions. Far more fulfilling in the spice department were the Singaporestyle noodle s an d th e crisp y duc k with five-flavoured salt. Th e noodle dish, a mature of chicken strips, shrimp, short vermicell i noodles, bea n sprouts , an d julienned carrots , wa s fragrant an d laced with a subtle curry flavour. The duck was the highlight o f the meal. Every bite of the crisp, spicy, and pleasantly salty breast meat melted in the mouth. Surprisingly, it wasn't at all fatty—a coup for this kitchen. Before th e dishes were cleared, I couldn't resist scooping up the last few slices of duck, which turned out to be just as delicious cold. The steamed rice—light and not at all gummy—was also first-rate. Though i t was recommended b y ou r waiter , the spic y beef with Chinese pancakes was a disappointment. Th e thin strands of beef, frie d beyon d recognition , taste d oil y an d bitter, no t spicy ; and the bland pancakes offered little in the way of support. Desserts appear to be an afterthought at Le Chrysantheme, as there are none listed on the menu. After a n unenthusiastic listing by ou r waiter , we settled fo r a tutti-frutti-tasting orang e sorbe t and a few cups of weak Chinese tea.

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Halfway throug h ou r meal , I noted tha t no t a single staf f member—including the hostess at the door—had offered a welcoming word or even cracked a smile. When I asked our waiter for menu recommendations, he actually looked surprised. To be fair, plates arrived like clockwork, water and wine glasses were refilled promptly, and dishes were served with care. But with such a cold shoulder comin g fro m th e staff , I felt a bit like someone caugh t crashing a wedding. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Peter Ng. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Located in a townhouse o n th e sleepy section of Rue Crescent below Ste. Catherine, this elegant space features a contemporary decor with dark-grey-and-old-rosepainted walls , and Chines e screen s and prints . A second, small room includes a whimsical arrangement of large decorative fans (a creative, not so subtle way to delineate the smoking section). WINE LIST • Le Chrysantheme maintains a small but affordabl e selection of wines. A bottle of Gewurztraminer offers a welcome fruitiness that marries well with sweet and spicy food. DON'T MISS • The soups, the lamb dumplings, the pork wonton raviolis in ginger sauce, the spring rolls, the five-flavoured spareribs, th e shrim p wit h basi l an d sno w peas , the Genera l Tao' s chicken, and the crispy duck with five-flavoured salt. WORDS TO THE WISE • Service problems aside , this Chines e restaurant is one of the city's finest. True, there are no chopstick s on the table (the y are available upon request) , and nothing i s as spicy a s authentic Szechwa n should be , but there' s n o denyin g that this is a top choice for anyone with an urge to try something out of the ordinary.

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LE CHRYSANTHEME 1208 Rue Crescent (nea r Ste. Catherine) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 397-1408 Open: Lunch, noon-2:30 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.- 10 P.M., Tuesday to Thursday , 5:30 P.M.- 11 P.M., Friday and Saturday , and 5:3 0 P.M.-10 P.M., Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major card s Price range: Starters, $3-$7.50; main courses, $8.50-$16.50; desserts, $3.50

S$$S

CONTEMPORARY

LE CLU B DE S PIN S SNAPSHOT»Although Le Club des Pins has always been thought of as a Provencal restaurant, this influenc e is more noticeable in the colourful decor, patterned tablecloths, an d the ramekin of sel de Camargu e o n ever y table. The cuisin e i s more sophisticate d than that, and less predictable. It may share the fresh taste—tha t certain sunniness—o f Provenca l cooking , ye t ingredients ar e local and flavour combinations ar e more in line with the curren t trend towards cuisine du terroir. The wine list is well chosen, bottles are affordable, and many of them are privately imported. THE BIG PICTURE • When word reached Montreal foodie s tha t Le Club des Pins had change d chef s i n July 2002, spirits sagged. This Outremont rest o was one of the few in town that had all the bases covered : relaxe d atmosphere , goo d food , affordabl e win e list, and a friendly and competent wait staff. With a new face in the kitchen, many doubted Le Club des Pins could maintai n it s high standard.

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They needn't have worried. With a new chef, Luis Viorklumds, a tighter menu, smoother service, and a longer wine list, this establishment is again running on all cylinders. Recently sampled starters are all superb, albeit small. A timbale of venison tartare laced with truffle oi l is a thing of beauty. The deer and truffle combinatio n i s intense, and the raw meat is minced to perfection. Duck g£sier s an d heart s ar e feature d i n a sala d o f onions , radicchio, and mesclun. One bite envelops your taste buds with the freshness of greens and the sharp taste of vinaigrette, and the next deliver s an earthy , meaty morsel o f grille d duck innards . Good fun. Less dazzlin g yet much appreciate d i s the tun a filet. Served seared on on e side (a 1'unilate'ral), this finger-sized slice, draped over a bed o f arugula, has a subtle flavou r despit e its garlic and crushed pine-nut paste topping. Main courses are more than generous . Take the duck . Duck magret, like foie gras, is as common on Montreal menus as creme bruise. But fe w have mastered it s preparatio n a s well as chef Viorklumds. He somehow manages to render all the fat, maintain a crisp skin, and cook the breast until tender and rose. Smart accompaniments includ e a n anise-flavoure d sauce , thin gree n beans, and a light and creamy celery root puree. Sweetbreads ar e another Montrea l favourite, and her e you'll find them caramelized to a crisp and served with smashed pota toes. Sweetbreads are best with a crusty exterior. These verge on chewy, with a slightly bitter aftertaste . No complaints about th e potatoes, though . Flecked with bits of spicy chorizo, one coul d make a meal of this side dish alone. The only disappointment is the casserole Club des Pins, a large earthenware bowl filled with poached salmon, tuna, tilapia, scallops, jumbo shrimp , an d gree n beans. Though th e flavou r an d texture of the fish and seafoo d i s fine, the broth is undersalted and dreary, no more complex than a run-of-the-mill fish fumet. Le Club des Pins's desserts used to be a weak point, but thi s is no longer the case. The tarte Tatin with vanilla ice cream; the pistachio waffle topped with a honey-vanilla panna cotta and saut£ed strawberries; and the maple parfait glace served with gingerbread,

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a light caramel sauce, and a plump dried fig stuffed with walnuts and ginger are all beautifully presented and well conceived—certainly worth the indulgence . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Luis Viorklumds. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The deep, narrow dining room is painted i n rich tones of sunflower yellow and burnt sienna. Stencils of aubergines, peppers, olive oil, fish, and a n amusing mural of a cafe called "La Petanque" set the scene somewhere in mythical Provence. WINE LIS T • The wine list feature s a smart selectio n o f food friendly, predominantly souther n Frenc h bottles, man y privately imported. An d with onl y a dozen bottles price d ove r $10 0 an d more than twice as many priced under $50, this list favours customers with an eye on the bottom line. DON'T MISS « The amuse-bouches , th e compose d salads , th e venison tartare, the sweetbreads, the duck, the cheese course, and the desserts. WORDS TO THE WISE • One of the downsides to dining out on fashionable Avenue Laurier has always been parking. But management has taken that into consideration, adding valet parking to Le Club des Pins's list of attractions . LE CLUB DES PINS 156 Avenue Laurier West (corner St. Urbain) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 272-9484 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.-10:30 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $8-$25; main courses, $25-$32; desserts, $7-$10; tasting menus, $45-$80

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AMERICAN

LE GOURMAN D SNAPSHOT • Although it had been years since I dined at this West Island favourite , the sigh t of the country-styl e furniture , stonewalled rooms, an d bloom-filled terrace packed with jovial yuppies and husky guys in golf shirts brought back fond memories . The menu remain s i n th e Cajun/French/Nort h America n style, with steak s being a particular strength. There's a palpable air of comfort and indulgence in this crowded space. The summertime terrace alone makes it worth the trip to Pointe Claire. Best of all, Le Gourmand has improved greatly in two departments: the wine list and the service. THE BIG PICTURE • Seated at my corner candleli t tabl e at Le Gourmand, I recently overheard a fellow diner proclaim that her dinner was "absolutely delicious." I second that opinion. The portions are generous, the meats are succulent, the vegetables are prepared with care, and the sauce s have pizzazz. Everything arrives piping hot, and rarely will you have to reach for the salt or pepper shaker—no mean feat considering the refined plate presentations and the sheer number of diners being served. In season, start with the asparagus spears served atop polent a in a creamy cheese sauce and a tomato coulis. Similarly sauced is a plat e o f rectangular-shape d homemad e gnocch i wit h blu e cheese an d Provolone . Bot h dishes are simpl e an d tasty , mor e what you would expect to find in an American restaurant than in a Quebec one. Another American-style appetizer is the shrimp etouff£, which includes a half doze n grille d jumbo specimen s smothere d i n a spicy tomato sauce enhanced with bell peppers, herbs, and garlic. Goat's chees e is a popular ingredien t o n thi s menu an d it's pu t to goo d use in combination with pin e nuts, diced tomatoes, an d spinach in a thin cream sauce for pennine. Main courses also fare well. A tender filet of venison is served with a fruity reduced red wine vinegar sauce.

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Many diner s appea r t o b e tucking into steaks an d there' s a good reaso n fo r it. The 12-ounc e Sterling sirloin, topped wit h a dollop of pine nut-mustard a'ioli, is full flavoured and not excessively fatty. If this kitchen coul d master a nicely charred exterio r crust, L e Gourmand coul d easil y compete wit h Montreal' s bes t steak houses. Fish and poultry are also top quality and the kitchen goe s out of its way to present them with originality. Salmon is served pan seared, grilled, o r blackened. Cashe w and sesam e chicken breast with shrim p an d peanu t sauc e i s another all-ou t winner . Th e breast comes from a grain-fed bird, offering a meaty texture an d chicken flavour we've all but forgotte n existed. Desserts include a few American-style selections, like a run-ofthe-mill ange l food cake with whipped crea m an d berries . The rest are fancier, yet not quite stellar. A warm apple tart with caramel sauce and vanill a ice cream ha s a soft, a s opposed t o crisp , crust. The molten chocolate cake topped with ice cream offers an intense chocolate flavour , but a n overly dry texture. Also in need of fine-tuning is the creme brulee, which has a caramelized sugar topping thick enough to make any dentist cringe . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Jean-Antoine Fok-Shun. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • There's a definite air of convivi ality at Le Gourmand. The restaurant is set in an old stone house with a n adjoinin g flower-lade n outdoor terrace . Th e crow d i s made u p o f sophisticate d suburbanites , young an d old . Man y customers appeal t o be regulars, as they address the restaurant' s young waiters and waitresses by name. WINE LIST • The win e lis t i s short bu t exemplary , with man y reasonably priced, well-chosen bottles. From a separate, slightly more expensive connoisseur's selection, you'll find many interesting options, suc h a s the red-meat-friendl y Atlas Peak Vineyards Sangiovese ($52) , and a smooth an d fruit y Fronsa c Chateau La Dauphine ($52) . The level of wine knowledge displayed b y the wait staff is impressive.

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DON'T MISS • The asparagus with polenta, the shrimp ftouffe , the goat's cheese starter, the pastas, the grilled salmon, the cashewsesame chicken, the filet of venison, and all the steaks. WORDS TO THE WISE • There are still a few details—packaged butter, no linen o n the outdoor tables—tha t separate Le Gourmand fro m th e city's top establishments. Bu t there's a wonderful feel to this place that you won't find anywher e in the city. It's a sense of ease, of community. I n summer, be sure to book in ad vance, as the terrace is a definite West Island hot spot . LE GOURMAND 42 Avenue Ste. Anne (near Lakeshore) Location: Pointe Claire Telephone: (514) 695-9077 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.-10 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $3.75-$9.50; main courses, $14.50-$38; desserts, $4.24-$6.75

*S$

FRENCH

LE GRAN D CAF E SNAPSHOT • Le Grand Cafe's name is somewhat misleading. It's really a bistro, and a small one at that. The menu includes many high-flying modern dishes peppered with exotic ingredients. Best of all may be the ambience, enhanced by the cafe's high-spirite d clientele, and the wine list, which is both interesting and priced to sell.

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THE BIG PICTURE • The best cafe s are places where people are happy to just hang out. At the end of two meals at downtown's Le Grand Cafe , I foun d mysel f doin g just that. In thi s sense , Le Grand Cafe is a cafe where "grand confort" wins out over "grande gastronomic." It has a laid-back ambience and certainly one of the friendliest wait staffs, heade d by maitre d' and co-owner Claud e Clavier. The attempt to please is obviously successful, as the place is usually packed with contente d diners . Alas, all is not perfect. The onion soup is served with the croutons and grate d cheese on the side. This is a shame, as the soup, made with a delicious beef stock packed with tender onions, loses all its charm without it s gratine'ed croutons. Another bistro/cafe classic, frise e au x lardons, coul d als o us e a bit o f attention . Although th e eg g is perfectly poached, it's se t atop a bed o f soggy lettuce (frisee, not the classic Ni9oise) and the meaty fried lardon s are cold. A serving of pate " is fanned out i n thi n slice s and garnishe d with leek sprouts, gherkin halves, and a sprinkling of rice noodles. The pate ' i s smooth an d wel l seasoned, but th e presentatio n i s over the top. Main course s far e better . Th e Gran d Caf e i s at it s best wit h meat dishes. The pepper steak offers a modern renditio n o f the classic bistro favourite . Stacked on a bed o f caramelized endiv e and toppe d wit h a cloud o f mashed potatoes , th e entrecot e is coated i n a rich green-peppercorn sauce. The house veal chop is equally impressive, for th e meat i s rose' and flavourful . A duc k filet covered in Caju n spice s has the robust flavou r o f barbecue, though th e meat itself is rather tough . The accompanying barley risotto has a pleasant nutty taste and a texture a s comforting as breakfast porridge . Fish lovers are in fo r a treat. Th e pan-fried filet o f sole is an impressive dish: the fish has a delicate flavour and a moist, melt ing texture. It' s serve d with saut6e d re d cabbage , sliced gree n beans, and chayote, which, with its lovely squash flavour, delivers a delicious creativ e touch. Desserts ar e homemade an d i n keepin g with th e decorativ e style. Though the waiter claims the Key lime pie is "the best in the

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city," it has none o f the trait s of the rea l thing—graham crust , cream or meringue topping, or Key lime juice. He should redirect his sales pitch to the creamy white-chocolate mouss e served with raspberry coulis and strawberries. Profiteroles would be another good choice if the chocolate sauce wasn't so thick and gloppy. The intensely flavoure d mango and raspberry sorbets offe r th e mos t refreshing end to the meal. Though th e foo d a t L e Gran d Cafe 1 i s uneven, the persona l touch will win you over. Service is casual and so friendly that you shouldn't b e surprised if the waiter gives you the classi c French/ Quebecois two-cheek kiss on your way out. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Jean-Yves Naud. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • With it s lo w lights, checkere d floor, woo d panels , and welcomin g ambience , thi s downtow n bistro is more than just another steak frites-eater's paradise. The crowd appear s to b e mad e u p o f eithe r loca l busines s types o r tourists. The relaxed ambience creates the impression of a branch^ dinner party with background musi c ranging from frantic accordion to mellow Motown. WINE LIST • Skip the wine list and talk to your waiter, who will be mor e tha n please d t o sugges t a few of his recen t favourite s within your budget. DON'T MISS • The meat and fish entrees, and the white-chocolat e mousse. WORDS TO THE WISE • Le Grand Caf<§ has attracted a loyal local clientele—the kind of patrons who feel at home in convivial surroundings and who tend to overlook the offbeat, hit-or-mis s nature of the food . Sure, there's creativ e license going on with th e "Grand" part of the name. But the spirit here is that of a true cafe.

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LE GRAND CAFE 1181 Avenue Union (nea r Cathcart) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 866-1303 Open: 11:30 A.M.-10 P.M., Monday to Wednesday, 11:30 A.M.11 P.M., Thursday and Friday , 5 P.M.- 11 P.M., Saturday, and 5 P.M.- 10 P.M., Sunday (May to October only) Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards (and Interac) Price range: Starters, $4-$9; main courses, $12-$28; desserts, $6-$8

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ITALIAN

LE LATIN I SNAPSHOT • Le Latini has been a Montreal institution popula r with the upscale business crowd for many years. If it's high-quality Italian food you're after, you can't do much better. In this eclectic modern/traditional setting, one can feast on authentic Italian cuisine meticulously prepared with only the best local and importe d ingredients. There's also an ever-evolving and impressive wine list. Yet, considering the high prices, service sometimes comes up short. THE BIG PICTURE • The Italia n wor d tha t bes t describes m y first visi t to L e Latini is "fantastico!" My companion an d I were shown to a table in the elegant second-floor dining room. While sipping Moscato, we soaked up th e fabulou s view of the illumi nated downtow n core from th e floor-to-ceilin g windows befor e tucking into a true Italian feast . The fruity , emeral d green , extra-virgi n Venetia n oliv e oi l found o n ever y table set s a high ton e for the meal . The classic prosciutto an d melo n starte r comprise s delicat e an d ultralea n slices of cured ham draped into mounds and set around two thick

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slices o f pristine melon . That ol d Italia n standby , tomato with Mozzarella, is made with Mozzarella di bufala, and the tomatoes , dressed with a simple balsamic vinegar and oliv e oil vinaigrette, are ripe, flavourful, and firm . Other starter s includ e cris p an d tende r frie d calamari , a chunky minestrone , an d a n arugul a sala d dresse d simpl y wit h olive oil and freshly shaved Parmesan. The mussels with marinara sauce, and the deep-fried soft-shel l crab served with a raisin and onion marmalade are also delicious . Main courses—veal and tomato risotto and mushroom ravi oli—live up to their press clippings. The risotto, rumoured t o be one of the only ones in Montreal made from scratch, is a triumph. The rice is firm yet creamy, the veal is tender, and the tomato sauce is rich and perfectly seasoned. The ravioli is also a winner. The al dente pockets are filled with a highly perfumed mushroom filling, and th e buttery sauce tastes of the finest Parmigiano-Reggiano. The seafood linguini , served with shrimp , mussels, and baby clams in a tomato-basil sauce, is also excellent. Though authentic, the many-layered lasagna, by contrast, is made with a veal-andcream-enhanced tomato sauc e that's bland—nothing to write home about. Le Latini's scampi and veal chop don't disappoint. The generous portion o f scampi—about 1 0 halves baked in the shell with white wine and basil—are sweet and soft, yet not i n the least bit mushy. The accompanying tomato and basil linguini is also firstrate. The veal chop is near perfect: ideally grilled with a caramelized crust, and ever-so-slightly rose in the centre. Recommended dessert s includ e a n Amaretto-enhanced tira misu, and that multilayered ice cream bombe, cassata. Steer clear of the acidi c lemon tart an d th e bitter, spongy , and overcooked creme caramel. Service at Le Latini is professional and efficient , but inconsis tent. There's a divide here between regulars, who are always treated solicitously, and first-timers, who can be treated lik e noncharter members o f a n exclusiv e club. Dependin g o n whic h camp yo u fall into, this can make for very different experiences .

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IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Moreno DiMarchi. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • On the main floor there's a large open kitche n fronte d b y impressive display s o f fres h frui t an d seafood. At dinnertime, the second floor is the place to take in the exciting view s of the south-centra l downtow n core . L e Latini's patrons are, for the most part, sophisticated and affluent—busi ness people come here to put major dents in the old expense account. WINE LIST • No doubt abou t it , Le Latini's selection o f Italia n wines is impressive. Yet, as with most o f the city' s Italian restau rants, expect prices here to skyrocket in sync with quality. Be sure to chec k ou t th e dail y wine special s listed a t the botto m o f th e menu, wher e there are many affordable discoverie s to be made . DON'T MISS • The prosciutt o an d melon , the calamari , th e risotto, the pasta, the veal chop, and the cassata. WORDS TO THE WISE • The big problem nonregulars run int o here is the lac k of pampering. The owners , seemingly happy t o fawn ove r recognizable faces, sometime s trea t newcomer s wit h indifference. Yo u may want t o overloo k th e offhan d treatment , however, just to experience the best of the food. LE LATINI 1130 Jeanne Mance (near Rene LeVesque) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 861-3166 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5 P.M.-11:45 P.M., Saturday, and 4 P.M.-10 P.M., Sunday Wheelchair access : Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $7.25-$19.25; main courses, $20.50-$49; desserts, $6.75-$9.50

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FREWCH

LE LUTETI A SNAPSHOT • Few hotel restaurant s in Montrea l ar e packing them in these days. Many are dull to a fault. That's hardly a problem a t H6tel de la Montagne's Le Lute'tia. With its elaborate ro coco setting reminiscent of a lavish eighteenth-century salon, Le Lutetia stands out as the most elaborate of the city's hotel dining rooms. The restaurant's chef, Eric Gonzalez, presents a sumptu ous nouvell e cuisin e men u ful l o f American accents . Servic e is professional an d th e win e list i s exemplary. Unfortunately, the noise from the downstairs bar can sometimes obliterate these fine features. Call in advance for the house specialty: pressed duck. THE BIG PICTURE • Le Lutetia's menu has always been extravagant, perhaps now more than ever. Lobster, foie gras, and caviar abound. Unlike many Montreal chefs who let the ingredients do the talking , L e Lutetia's Eri c Gonzalez puts equa l emphasi s o n cooking techniques. There are consomme's, confits, veloutes, parmentiers, and brandades. This is fancy food, ideal for celebrations. Gonzalez's styl e may be luxurious , but there' s nothin g stodg y about it. Reflecting his French training (h e hails from Provence) and his three years in New York, his jazzy nouvelle cuisine is peppered wit h American influences. Flavour enhancers range fro m pesto, mushroom marmalade, and fruit ketchup, to truffle vinaigrette, Champagn e sabayon , an d se a urchin cappuccino . He' s lifted the best of both worlds, no matter what the pedigree. The amuse-bouche , a meaty jumbo shrim p serve d wit h a spoonful o f mango-green-pepper marmalad e an d a dribble of passion fruit sauce, is an enticing introduction to Gonzalez's style. Starters are also impressive. A shallow bowl containing an arrangement o f lobster an d glaze d scampi cradlin g a quenelle o f mushroom-chervil crea m arrive s covered by one o f Le Lutdtia's dramatic silver cloches. The bowl is uncovered, and a waiter arrives to add the soup, a veloute de crustaces. This cream o f seafood is velvety and deeply fkvoured. The lobster and scampi are

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tender, an d th e quenell e o f cream add s a wonderful earthy flavour, a frothy texture, and a cool temperature. Wow. Another starter, pumpkin ravioli , is a tasty second. The thinskinned ravioli are filled with a light pumpkin-Mascarpone puree, arranged on a bed of caramelized onions, and topped with a sprinkling of thyme, diced tomato, and preserved lemons. Though main-course expectations (an d prices) run high, you will not b e disappointed . Chilea n sea bass serve d with sautee d spinach and a skewer of grilled shrimp, clams , and pest o is perfection. The fish is moist, firm, and offers the pure taste of the sea. The accompaniment s al l fall int o order , from th e shrim p an d clams to the stronger spinach and pesto. The side dish of lemon and Mascarpone pasta, however, seems superfluous. The squab with veal and mushroom stuffing is another showstopper. The pudgy bird is boned, deep mahogany in colour, and glistening. The meat is heavenly: medium-rare, gamy in flavour, and o h s o rich. Served alongside i s soft polent a with olive s and lima beans. The reduced jus around i t reflects the chef' s prefer ence for light sauces. The cheese course is not t o be missed. There is a wide variety of cheeses—both local and imported—an d they're serve d with three original condiments: pureed pear, pistou, and an onion-orange marmalade. Desserts als o reflec t th e chef' s French/America n approach . The first, a variation on the classic Black Forest cake, is made with thin layer s o f sof t chocolat e cak e filled with ganache , whipped cream, and cherries. Only serious chocoholics nee d apply. Less intense is a frozen vanilla parfait filled with diced pineapple, topped with gold leaf, and served with pineapple tempura batonnets. Note: A specialty of Le Lute'tia is canard presse, a dish rarel y served outside its house of origin—the famed Parisian restauran t Le Tour d'Argent. The tableside service of this dish begins with the waiter removing the magrets from the breastbone, then chopping the carcass into small pieces and placing them in an elaborate silver screw-top press designed to extract the blood and juices from the bones for later use in enriching the sauce. Though not recommended for the squeamish, duck lovers are sure to lick their lips after ever y bite.

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IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Eric Gonzalez. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Exiting the elevator on the hotel's second floor, one is quickly enveloped in the lavish decor. It's a real amalgam of styles: Baroque, Belle Epoque, rococo. Plaster cherubs circle colourful ceiling frescoes, gossamer drapes line the windows and balcony , an d th e Loui s XIV armchairs ar e upholstered i n elaborate tapestries. Sparklin g chandeliers abound. Surprisingly, the mix of styles works, creating an atmosphere of a movie set depicting a lavish eighteenth-century salon . WINE LIST • The wine list , with it s many colourful maps an d wide selection of well-priced international bottles , is exemplary. DON'T MISS • The seafoo d bisque , th e ravioli , th e bass, th e cheese course, and the pineapple dessert. WORDS TO THE WISE • As garish a s the deco r ma y sound , there's no denying that this "Let them eat cake" setting puts one in the mood for an extravagant night of fine dining. However, there's no avoiding the loud music, which emanate s fro m th e noisy bar below the restaurant (lat e in the evening, noise levels can be intolerable). LA LUTETIA 1430 Rue de la Montagne (near de Maisonneuve, in the Hdtel de la Montagne) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 288-5656 Web site: www.hoteldelamontagne.com Open: Lunch, noon-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.-10:30 P.M., Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters (lunch), $5-$10; starters (dinner) , $16-$22; main courses, $27-$50; desserts, $6.50-$10.75

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LE MARGAUX SNAPSHOT • Set on a quiet corne r in the Plateau Mon t Royal, this charming 28-seat bistro offers Frenc h food lovingly prepared and presente d i n a bright littl e space framed b y curtained win dows, large mirrors, and a long, chintz-covered banquette. Whereas the cooking seemed to lack confidence when the restaurant first opened, today' s men u offer s a near idyllic pairing of techniqu e and good taste. The cheese course—three generous portions for $7—is one o f the bes t bargain s in town . The short win e list is priced to sell. THE BIG PICTURE • An evening at Le Margaux begins quietly, with hostes s an d co-owne r Corinn e Cauhap d windin g he r way around th e tables, pouring wate r and taking orders. Although a gregarious hostess might work at getting the party started, Mme. Cauhape is the gamine type, more reserved than voluble. Yet, as soon as the restaurant's 28 seats are filled, the ambienc e becomes electric, with corks popping, diners blabbing, and young couples giggling flirtatiously. When the food appears, the decibel level shifts onc e again, taking on the gentl e hum o f satisfaction. Calamari, in all its forms, has become the ubiquitous appetizer of the new millennium. At its worst, it's a plate of erasers. But at its best it's tender and resilient, with a nice dose of caramelization on the rings and spiders. Le Margaux's version is all that, and cleverly paired with a timbale of cold pearl barley studded with nibs of raw vegetables including celery and peppers. Barley turns u p agai n i n a dish o f orgeotto , a risotto-lik e mound o f a l dent e grain s held togethe r wit h a cream y sauce. Adding t o th e barley' s pleasan t nutt y taste ar e severa l tender pieces of boned quail breast. Black pudding (boudin ) i s staging a comeback, and her e it' s used to fil l raviol i doused with a creamy mushroom sauc e laced with apples. Every bite is earthy, sweet, and spicy. Good fun.

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Another pleasurable play of ingredients is the assiette de canard dans tout ses etats, a sort of ode to the duck consisting of gesiers, marinated strip s o f ra w duck, shredde d piece s of preserved leg layered with herbs and capers, and a crouton sprea d with a delicious foie gras mousse. After a complimentary second-cours e sou p or salad come the mains. Trout and foie gra s may sound like an odd combination, but by tasting them side by side, one can revel in their opposin g flavours an d comparabl e ligh t textures . Serve d alongsid e ar e imaginative flavou r enhancers such as apples, polenta, asparagus, and a Calvados-laced sauce Normande. A second main cours e consists of three lamb filets set atop a large—and rathe r salty—potato hash brown, the whole served with a timid mustard sauce. Two of the three filets score high on flavour and texture, but the third is chewy. Also on the tough side are cubes of venison served in stew form, along the lines of a boeuf bourguignon. Better , though, i s the accompanyin g matouille, a half baked potato mixed with cheese and wild mushrooms . A good way to finish your wine is with the cheese course, which includes three generous portions of Quebec and French cheeses . Desserts are also not to be missed. Best among them is the fiadone, a not-too-sweet Ricotta-base d cake, and La Grappe de Margaux, ice cream-filled chou x pastr y pipe d t o resembl e a bunch o f grapes—an original twist on the classic profiteroles. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and co-owner Je'rome Chatenet . DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Le Margaux isn't know n fo r it s crackling ambience. There's not much to the room: it's like a blank canvas, with the crowd providing most of the colour. The space is framed by curtained windows, large mirrors, and a long, chintzcovered banquette. WINE LIST • Le Margaux's page-long win e list i s not onl y well chosen, but also affordable. With food this good, consider splurging on a pricey bottle, such as the Chatea u La Galiane Margaux 1997 ($56).

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DON'T MISS • The calamari salad, the black pudding ravioli, the assiette de canard dans tout ses etats, the trout with foi e gras, the cheese course, and La Grappe de Margaux. WORDS TO THE WISE • Le Margaux is a little restaurant with a big heart. It's a simple plac e with fe w pretensions an d plent y of moxie. The ambience, however, is what you make it. So create your own atmosphere b y enlisting a few entertaining friends. One caution: In a room thi s petite , wit h table s s o close, on e ca n easil y eavesdrop on severa l conversations. Kee p that i n mind whe n revealing dark secrets. LE MARGAUX 371 Rue Villeneuve East (corner de Grands Pres) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mon t Royal Telephone: (514) 289-9921 Open: Lunch, noon-2 P.M., Thursday and Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.-10 P.M., Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $5-$8; main courses, $14-$23; desserts, $6-$7

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LE MA S DE S OLIVIERS SNAPSHOT • Though th e settin g ma y not b e the mos t glam orous, this downtown institution , still going strong after 29 years, continues t o pac k in loca l business peopl e an d politicos , wh o come here to feas t o n French fries , grille d meats, fish soup, an d serious red wines. But good food alone isn't enough to draw such

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a high-powere d crowd . The friendly , confident wai t staf f wh o greet regulars by name might have something to do with it as well. THE BIG PICTURE • Le Mas des Oliviers ... sounds romantic , no? On e imagine s a picturesque ol d farmhouse restaurant sur rounded by groves of silvery olive trees, where grilled fish arrive on glazed ceramic platters along with such sid e dishes a s pissaladiere, vegetable tian, aioli garni, ratatouille, and—for spreadin g on crust y baguettes—plent y o f tha t lust y oliv e an d anchov y spread, tapenade. Visions of Peter Mayle's Provencal fantasy world dance through one's head. Think cloudy pastis, sunny afternoons, garlic-laden food , colourful locals with berets askew , and bottle after bottle of chilled rose. But hold on here . Montreal's L e Mas des Oliviers hardly fits that description. On most nights, the place is packed with rum pled businessme n an d bottle-blond e wome n feastin g of f plates mounded with French fries an d indulging in plenty of red wine. Wonderful smell s emanate from behind th e kitchen door. If ever there was a restaurant that brings out the appetite, it would have to be Le Mas des Oliviers. In this establishment, things are kept simple. The food is classic French, neither bistro fare nor nouvelle cuisine. The relatively short menu features—among other classics— onion soup, duck and beef filets with pepper sauce, creme caramel, and profiteroles. Widi s o many of the city' s restaurants vying for the upscale clientele who frequent Le Mas des Oliviers, one wonders what has kept this unglamorous haunt going strong for the past 29 years. My guess would be the most endearing wait staff around. The waiters at L e Mas des Oliviers are charming, confident, and—most impressive in a room this crowded—ever-present. Like a general leading his troops, th e elegan t Frenc h maltre d ' ha s everythin g under control . Starters include a charcuterie plate comprising a garlicky pat6 de campagne, melting thin slices of Bayonne ham, and a quenelle of rillettes. A shallow bowl of saute"ed shrimp i s served Basquestyle, which turns out to include spic y onion, pepper, garlic, and tomato sauce . The portion i s generous and th e shrimp , thoug h firm, are neither dry nor rubbery.

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The pescadou et sa rouquine is a long-standing house favour ite. The pescadou i s a fish soup, and the rouquine (whic h translates as "the redhead") is the name for its accompaniments: bright orange rouille, peeled garlic cloves, and Gruyer e cheese. Ask the waiter to explain the procedure, and—with much enthusiasm— he'll direct you to take a crouton, rub it with a clove of garlic, add a generous smear of rouille, cover it with cheese, and set it atop the soup. When the crouton sinks to the bottom, the soup is ready for slurping . And what wonderful soup it is: full flavoured, tinged with lobster and pastis, and loaded with flakes of fish. Main courses include three excellent choices: pan-fried perch, rabbit with herbs , and a n entrecote a la moelle (wit h marrow) . The perch is especially lovely, with it s crisp skin and delicat e al abaster flesh. The accompaniments include rice pilaf and a sauce similar t o th e Basquais e pepper , onion, an d tomat o melang e served with the shrimp. The rabbi t dis h ca n be foun d i n an y region o f France . This lapin aux herbes is roasted and served in two parts: leg and sliced saddle. The mea t is tender an d flavourfu l (rabbi t i s so often dr y and tasteless) , and it s accompanying thick brown sauc e has the pronounced flavou r of fresh rosemary. The medium-sized grilled entrecote i s lightly charred o n th e outside, pink and juicy on the inside. Its bold red wine sauce provides a fine match. Only the marrow falls flat; the large pieces are flaccid, warm , and have little taste. Not to be missed are the house frites, which ar e crisp on th e outside, sof t o n th e inside , an d offe r rea l potato flavour . You'll spot the m a t most tables , and afte r on e taste you'll understan d why. The homemade mayonnaise is perfect for dipping and worth every extra calorie. Desserts include profiteroles that are smothered in a chocolate sauce so delicious tha t th e restaurant' s owner s shoul d conside r selling it commercially. Slices of chocolate terrine, set atop swirls of creme anglaise and coulis, are light and smooth. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Pierre Dominique .

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DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The room is dark—grotto-like —with wide wood beams and low stucco ceilings . The only hint of olive trees is a plate of green olives and celery sticks in the middle of th e table . Th e conservativ e crow d i s made u p o f well dressed women an d bleary-eyed business types . Though the setting maybe less than idyllic, the room is crackling with ambience. WINE LIST • The wine list includes an impressive array of French offerings (fro m th e $2 8 house wine t o the Chateau x d'Yquems, Cheval-Blancs, and Lafites ) an d man y fine internationa l selec tions as well. In addition, there are 10 daily specials priced between $50 and $70. Don't hesitate to ask the waiters for suggestions. DON'T MISS • The fish soup, the roasted rabbit , th e entrec6te, the French fries, and the profiteroles. WORDS TO THE WISE • Though yo u won' t ge t the ultimat e Proven9al experience at Le Mas des Oliviers, you'll probably have a wonderful time nonetheless . Th e party-hearty lawyer/accoun tant/politico/glamorous-dame crow d i s tailor-made for seriou s people watching. Th e food is generally solid, and th e courteou s wait staff will make you feel like one of the regulars. LE MAS DES OLIVIERS. 1216 Rue Bishop (nea r Ste. Catherine) Location: Downtow n Telephone: (514 ) 861-673 3 Open: Lunch, noon-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.-11 P.M., Monday to Friday, 5:30 P.M.-11 P.M. , Saturday, and 5:3 0 P.M.-10 P.M., Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommende d Cards: Major card s Price range: Starters, $4-$12.50; main courses, $22.50-$32; desserts, $5-$6.50

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LE MITOYEN SNAPSHOT • Only 30 minutes fro m downtow n Montreal , thi s lovely old house provides the ideal setting for a leisurely romantic dinner. Chef Richard Bastien uses only the best Quebec produce in his elegant and inventive cuisine du marche. Despite the long waits between courses, dinner at Le Mitoyen provides a gourmet experience at the highest level. THE BIG PICTURE • Laval residents hav e a fabulous gourmet oasis in Richard Bastien's French restaurant, Le Mitoyen. After a drive less time-consuming than expected (no more than 30 minutes from th e city centre), you'll arrive in front o f a lovely house across from a church in the middle of a quiet square in the village of Ste. Dorothe'e. Unlike those of so many restaurants of this genre, Le Mitoyen's menu descriptions are simple one-liners. Though chef Bastien is dedicated to using only the best Quebec produce, it's surprising to see that these ingredients are not specifically listed on the menu. Nonetheless, their high quality is apparent with every bite. The roasted quail with caramelized wild cranberry sauce is the ideal introduction t o Bastien's style. The small bird is prepared in two ways: the legs as a confit, and the breast saut6ed to order. The pieces are then stacked on top of a lightly seared polenta cake and surrounded with a red-pepper fondu, a few leaves of steamed spinach, and a potent cranberry sauce. Here's a dish with every ingredient exploited to its fullest: the quail's dark and white meats cooked separately, the polenta's creamy texture enhanced with a crust, and the cranberry and caramel sauce providing a sweet and sour en hancement. This isn't just good cooking, it's smart cooking. Equally pleasing is the ho t foi e gras . Unlike so many restaurants that skimp on foie gras, Le Mitoyen offers a n ideal portion size (at $19.50, the price is ideal too). Three foie gras medallions are perfectly seared and placed on a poached pear half, the whole swirled with a reduced cider sauce.

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The caribou-stuffed ravioli—not listed o n the menu—provides an interesting surprise . The half-moon-shaped pasta pockets are served with a creamy caribou stock and curry sauce. Curry and caribou isn't a combination you'l l com e across every day— talk about strange bedfellows—but it works. Three popular mai n course s are duck magret, veal filet, and ostrich medallion . The duck, with a honey-spice sauce , caramelized onions, and a rice mis (Basmati and wild, with almonds) definitely shows potential, were it not for the meat. Not onl y is the breast undercooked, but there's also a thick layer of white fat under the skin. Tender enoug h t o slic e with a butter knife , th e vea l filet i s obviously Quebec's finest . The accompaniments—barley risotto and saute'e d black trumpet mushrooms—ar e elegant an d wel l matched. The ostrich filet is another winner. The rich red meat, served with a bold red wine sauce, has a flavour and texture somewhere between roas t beef an d venison. At its sid e are sauteed shiitak e mushrooms an d organi c root vegetables: salsify , yellow carrots, and fingerling potatoes. Come dessert time, try the soft chocolat e cake . It will take an extra 1 5 minutes t o prepare, but it' s wort h th e wait. Despite its too-warm temperatur e an d soupy consistency, the vanilla creme bruise is rich and delicious. The chocolate tart, served with ginger and pralin e ic e cream, is good, though hardl y memorable. Th e fruit-stuffed crepe s provide an unwelcome surprise. They're rolled, sushi-style, with fruit and rice, and they come with a passion frui t sorbet and two fruit dipping sauces. It's nice, but a bit much. Service is cordial an d professional , eve n if a little lackin g in warmth (there' s a fine line between distan t an d warm, and the waiters here seem to err on the side of distant). Although the couples dreamily looking into each other's eye s in this candleli t roo m don' t see m awar e of it, waits betwee n courses can be long. Granted , a meal o f this qualit y shoul d b e taken at a leisurely pace, but a t this rate, even the most voluble conversationalist i s likely to run ou t of material.

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IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Richard Bastien. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The elegant dining room, with its dark-orange walls , wood-beamed ceiling , and simple , country style accoutrements—including an especially eye-catching straw rooster—offers th e idea l combinatio n o f moder n an d classi c comfort, a decor perfectly in line with Bastien' s modern Frenc h cuisine. WINE LIST • The wine lis t a t L e Mitoyen i s fairly priced , an d though there are only a few half bottles, the in-house sommelier may recommend one of the six fine choices available by the glass. DON'T MISS«The roasted quail , the foie gras, the caribou ravioli, the veal filet, the ostrich, and the vanilla creme brulee. WORDS TO THE WISE • Those weary of the downtow n scene , with its lack of parking, crowds, and slushy streets in the winter, should ad d thi s Ste. Dorothea restaurant to their lis t (especially West Islanders, who live close by). With its intelligent cuisine du marche, top-notch regiona l products, an d romanti c setting , Le Mitoyen is certainly worth the trip. LE MITOYEN 652 Place Publique Location: Ste. Dorothee, Laval Telephone: (450) 689-2977 Open: 6 P.M.-11 P.M., Tuesday to Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $7.50-$19.50; main courses, $24.50$31.50; desserts, $5.50-$8.50; four-course table d'hote menu, $38.50

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LE MUSCADI N SNAPSHOT • Long cherished b y locals and tourists , Ol d Montreal's L e Muscadin ha s wo n favou r fo r it s traditiona l Italian / Canadian cuisine , romanti c ambience , friendl y service, and a wide selection of fine Italian wines. In late 2001, Le Muscadin up and move d sho p t o calmer , brighter , an d mor e elegan t ne w premises, several blocks northwes t o f the ol d location. Thoug h the seamles s service of old ha s yet to b e recaptured, the foo d is unchanged. Th e mos t interestin g dishe s ar e the dail y special s listed on the table d'hot e menu , whic h offers goo d value with a choice of starters, a main course, dessert, and coffee . THE BIG PICTURE • When I last dined at Le Muscadin in August 2001, this Italian restaurant was so polished that just before exiting, a waiter slippe d ou t fro m behin d a curtain, offere d m e a longstemmed rose, and kindly requested I come again. Impressive! But just a few months after that memorable meal, Le Muscadin changed locations. With so much effort pu t into the "demenagement," one would think L e Muscadin could onl y have improved. This is not entirely the case. Of the starters, a juicy and meaty baked portobello mushroom topped wit h melte d Bocconcin i is overshadowed b y shrivelle d grilled oyster mushroom s serve d alongside. B y contrast, a small stack of zucchini strips topped with crushed tomatoes and layered with cheese is good enough to make me wish the portion had been larger. he to tomato and MozOne dish that doesn't leave me wanting is the zarella salad. We've all come to expect the usual fresh Mozzarellabasil-tomato medley showered with olive oil. This salad, however, is quite different , a s it consist s o f a circle o f underrip e tomat o sections an d a mound o f firm Mozzarell a cubes enhanced wit h basil and a balsamic vinaigrette. Not only is the portion too large, but the Mozzarella is no better than the supermarket variety.

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Spaghetti alia carbonara is an excellent barometer for any Italian kitchen . When correctl y prepared, th e creamy , eggy, cheesy, and sensuousl y cloying sauce wraps around the al dente strand s of spaghetti like a tight cashmere sweater, while the cris p bits of pancetta contribut e a much neede d bi t o f crunch. With flaccid pancetta and a salty, thin, barely-there sauce, Le Muscadin's rendition falls short—carbonara in name only. Main course s far e better . A generous file t o f re d snappe r served with a sprinkling of capers and a lemon an d white-wine sauce has a fine subtle flavour and the desirable moist texture. Veal scaloppini stuffe d wit h shredde d radicchi o an d smoke d Mozzarella is less successful a s the cooke d radicchio i s off-puttingl y bitter and the smoked Mozzarella is completely undetectable. The best dish is fegato alia Veneziana (sauteed calf's liver with onions). The liver is meaty, slightly resilient, and devoid of bitterness, and the onions are sweet and melting. Desserts include a rubbery creme caramel and an undersized cannoli lacking the requisite bubbly pastry. The tiramisu is wonderful—a deliciou s mess of sponge, cream, coffee, an d cocoa. IN THE KITCHEN • Chefs Steve lacono and Leonardo lacono. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • With elaborate drapes, high ceilings, and huge Art Deco chandeliers, the new Muscadin is grand —in the hotel-lobby sens e of the word. This is one of the city's more formal Italian restaurants, and dress follows suit. WINE LIST • The wine list, though impressive, could certainly be more customer-friendly. There's onl y a small selection o f wines under $50 , few half bottles, and onl y two wines available by the glass (one white, one red, both pedestrian). DON'T MISS • The baked portobello mushroom wit h Boccon cini, th e zucchin i layered with chees e and tomato , the grille d snapper, the calf's liver with onions, and the tiramisu.

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WORDS TO THE WISE • Sadly, it's i n th e servic e departmen t (formerly on e o f Le Muscadin's strongest suits ) that th e restau rant is at its weakest. Though still oozing with charm, the waiters sometimes appea r to be winging it. To better you r Le Muscadin experience, consider th e reasonable table d'hdte menu. Also, plan to arrive early to avoid parking hassles. LE MUSCADIN 639 Rue Notre Dame West (near McGill) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514 ) 842-0588 Web site: www.muscadin.co m Open: Lunch, noon-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.-10 P.M., Monday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $5.50-$20; pastas, $17.50-$28.95; main courses, $20.95-$37.50; desserts, $5.50-$8.50

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LE PARI S SNAPSHOT • Open sinc e 1956 , Le Paris has always been one of the most popular bistro s in the city. Its flowery dining room has been the choic e of affluen t Montrealer s looking for French cuisine bourgeoise in a casual and friendly setting. The no-frills food is described glowingly as authentic, or dismissed by gourmets as old-fashioned. Th e secret t o L e Paris's succes s is the comfortin g air o f familiarity and th e refreshin g lack of pretension. Th e old prints an d posters , fres h flowers, wooden chairs , an d burgund y banquettes furthe r enhanc e th e ai r o f a well-worn Pari s bistro . While so many restaurants scrambl e to offe r somethin g new , Le Paris thrives by doing just the opposite.

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THE BIG PICTURE • It's si x o'clock o n a dreary Sunday nigh t and the dining room at Le Paris is just starting to come to life. The red leather banquette at the front of the room is the ideal vantage point fo r eyeing the interactio n betwee n patron s an d wait staff . Middle-aged locals are warmly greeted—often by name or with a handshake—by the lovely hostess or the very French maitre d'. The tables in front are filled with families, couples, and groups of friends enjoying endive salads, entrecdtes, and toast points spread with brandade de morue. I was initially drawn to this restaurant by its stellar reputation . Yet one look at the plasticized menus, the worn burgundy table cloths, and the dusty French posters and prints on the walls made me cringe. I was also unnerved by the tight seating arrangement. When my main-course poule au pot arrived, I was mortified to see that it was served with what looked like canned peas. Service was brusque, the atmosphere was sleepy, and nothing tasted especially memorable. My second visit proves a challenge, as this time I'm dining with a baby (if you want to see how accommodating a restaurant can be, try showing up with a feisty toddler who likes flinging cutler y at strangers). Though the diners around u s look anxious on this busy Saturday night, the waiters are as cool as cucumbers. We are served our entir e meal within an hour, never for a minute feeling rushed or that the youngest member of our party is not welcome. Between sip s of Chablis , we savour a simple green salad serve d with toasted goat' s cheese, a pureed white bean soup ideally seasoned an d wit h th e correc t spoon-coatin g consistency , an d a charcuterie plate that includes thin slice s of garlic sausage, hard boiled egg s with mayonnaise , and a slice o f pat e d e campagn e worthy of the best Parisian charcutier. Main courses include a thick, pan-seared tournedos d e boeuf served wit h terrifi c homemade Frenc h frie s an d a glistenin g brown chasseur sauce made with wine, mushrooms, an d shallots . Another classic, poached salmon steak, arrives with mashed potatoes and sauteed sugar snap peas. We also relish the blood pudding for it s gentle spicy flavour, crumbly texture, and crisp casing. And the confi t d e canard offer s cris p ski n an d meltin g mea t paire d with sauteed potatoes and thin, al dente green beans.

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Desserts are simple an d satisfying . An individual-sized char lotte cake stands out fo r its tender ladyfingers an d frothy orange mousse enhanced with orange flower water. Just as delicious is the floating island , which features ligh t and fir m meringu e drizzled with har d carame l and surrounde d b y a rich an d thic k vanilla creme anglaise. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Fredenc Paguet. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The light from th e shaded table lamps gives the room the glow of a fifties' Belmondo film. Many of th e regular s cross the roo m t o gree t friends . Th e attractiv e young waiters and waitresses look busy and happy to be here. If it weren't for the line forming at the door, you could sit and peoplewatch all night. WINE LIST • Save for the $ 100 bottle of Champagne, most of the primarily French wines are priced at $50 or less. So the wine list is another of Le Paris's drawing cards. DON'T MISS • The goat's cheese salad, the charcuterie plate, the pate de campagne, the tournedos, the confit, and the desserts. WORDS TO THE WISE» The restaurant , frequented mostl y by regulars, has the feel of a social club. Consider making numerous visits if you want to fit in and get a good table. Le Paris has been in business since 1956 and I wouldn't be surprised to see it thrive for anothe r hal f century . Modern lif e demands constant change and innovation . Unquestionably , however, this ver y headlong pursuit of change creates an equal and opposite desire for permanence—happily found a t Le Paris.

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LE PARIS 1812 Rue Ste. Catherine West (corner St. Mathieu) Location: Downtow n Telephone: (514) 937-4898 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Monday to Saturday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.-10:30 P.M., Sunday to Thursday, and 5:3 0 P.M. — 11:30 P.M., Friday and Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: All major card s Price range: Starters, $3-$7; main courses, $15-$23; desserts, $2.75-$5.50

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LE PASSE-PARTOU T SNAPSHOT • Here is a top Frenc h restaurant wher e the accen t is more o n th e foo d tha n o n th e setting . On e goe s to L e PassePartout for a gourmet experience par excellence. Chef and owner James MacGuire showcases the best local ingredients as well as his stellar technique. The understated atmospher e is welcoming an d tranquil. On e unique feature is a bakery attached to the restau rant that offers the best bread in the city. THE BIG PICTURE • You can't mis s the gourmet s a t L e PassePartout, tha t unobtrusiv e bakery/restauran t o n an unglamorous corner o f Boulevard De>carie. Glassy-eyed, they lovingly admire their plate s befor e liftin g th e cutlery . They savour ever y morsel with their eyes half shut. They sip their wine slowly, speaking in muted tones, comparing notes with their equally obsessed companions. They're here to experience the work of chef James MacGuire. MacGuire's world i s one o f flavou r an d texture , showcasin g the best local ingredients. French cooking is a fusion of technique and terroir , an d fe w understan d thi s concep t bette r tha n MacGuire. Hi s styl e i s pure marke t cuisine , handwritten o n a

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menu that changes daily. Don't expect flashy plate presentations. Unlike the cuisines of many of the city's renowned chefs, a sense of the past clings to MacGuire's cuisine. Look no further than two recent amuse-bouches—chees e puffs (gougeres ) an d ham-fille d brioche—classic favourites reborn . Following in the French tradition, everything at Le Passe-Partout is homemade, save the wine . No othe r che f offer s a s personal a dining experience. Everyone serves bread, but few make their own. And nobody makes bread as beautifully as James MacGuire. The cold appetizers, which are also available at the bakery next door, are mainstays of the menu. The plate of homemade charcuteries is a transformation of country-style meat s into four-starrestaurant fare. The mousse de foie de volaille is dense, lush, and masterfully seasoned . MacGuire' s duc k terrin e i s chunky an d fiavourful, whil e his rillettes de Tours are fine-textured, rich, and melting—the hallmark of well-made rillettes. The house-smoked salmon, served in transparently thin, silky slices with a small cucumber, dill, and yogour t salad , is fresh-tasting, lightly smoked and salted—simply divine. A favourite hot appetizer—an d one that goes beyond classic to moder n nouvelle cuisine—is the delicat e scallo p flan served with tender mussels, saut^ed spinach, and a pool of intense saffron cream sauce. Another is the hot foi e gras, which is given novel treatment here, inlaid in a gateau of pheasant mousse, wrapped in cabbage, and served with a stew of tiny wild mushrooms. I'd also recommend th e squash soup. Swirled with heavy cream and perfectly salted, it's the ideal soup with which to enjoy a crusty slice ofpainrustique. When available, don't miss the duck magret with orange sauce and caramelize d pineapple—a dis h attribute d t o MacGuire' s culinary mentor, the great French chef Charles Barrier . The ros6 slices o f duc k are crisp-skinne d an d succulent ; th e pineappl e pieces ar e lightly browned an d sweet ; the orang e sauce , dotted with zest , has a lovely tang; and th e accompanyin g potato pan cakes are light and crisp around the edges. Wow.

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Equally delightful is the striped bass. The generous portion of steamed fis h i s meaty, meltingly tender , an d moist , bu t it' s th e sunny Proven9a l accompaniments—tapenade an d tian—tha t steal the show . The olive, anchovy, and cape r tapenade is strong and salty—the most robust condiment around. The tian is intricately assembled int o a perfect roun d o f thin , layered slice s of zucchini and tomato atop a mound of sauteed onion. MacGuire's dessert s ar e al l charm . A Valrhona chocolat e mousse is paired with a luscious Grand Marnier creme anglaise and—an origina l touch—a thic k slic e of feather y homemade brioche. For something a bit lighter, try the crisp ladyfmgers (biscuit cuillere) sandwiched together wit h lemon cream and served with strawberries, raspberries, and red fruit coulis . An apple and prune tart made with MacGuire's renowned puff pastr y shatters at the touch of a fork and won't be fast forgotten. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner James MacGuire. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE»Entering the dining room through the bakery, you get the feeling you're at a secret neighbourhood club—a gourmet speakeasy. The dining room is not much of an attraction. It's small (abou t 40 places), peach in colour, and rectangular. All the warmt h i s generated by the charming , profes sional wait staff. Diners dress up, but not necessarily in their best. Noise levels are civilized. WINE LIST«There's a small selection of French, Italian, and Californian bottles, most of which are affordable. Much thought and care has obviously been put into the selection. Enjoy a robust red wine, such as the Domain e de 1'Hortus Pic St. Loup for $3 5 (or $7.50 a glass). DON'T MISS « The charcuterie, the scallo p flan , th e duck , th e striped bass , the chees e course, th e chocolat e mousse , an d th e homemade ice creams.

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WORDS TO THE WISE • Although a meal at Le Passe-Partout is a true gourme t experience , it' s not fo r everyone. Service can be slow on bus y nights, an d there are only two main-course offer ings. Expect to hang up your own coat. But if you're one of those dedicated (o r curious) food lovers in search of the best, you're in for something special. Not only will you walk away from a meal at Le Passe-Partout with a renewed love of French cuisine, but you'll also tak e hom e a complimentar y loa f of MacGuire' s famou s bread. LE PASSE-PARTOU T

3857 Boulevard Decarie (near Notre Dame de Grace) Location: Westmount/NDG Telephone: (514) 487-7750 Hours: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 6:30 P.M.-9:30 P.M., Thursday to Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $8.50-$13.50; main courses, $33.50; desserts, $8.50

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ITALIAN

LE PIEMONTAI S SNAPSHOT • Situated of f the beaten track o n an unglamorou s strip of Boulevard Rene Levesque, east of St. Denis, this well-loved Italian restaurant , popula r wit h celebratin g familie s an d th e Radio Canada crowd, has been quietly garnering a loyal following since 1977. The cuisine is solid Italian-Canadian far e and the wine list is both extensive and affordable. What has the crowds coming back for more is the cracldin g atmosphere an d th e professional , courteous service.

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THE BI G PICTURE • Though we arrive at L e Piemontais o n a busy Saturday night without a reservation, we are welcomed by the maitre d' like regulars. Within seconds of being seated at the last available table, crisp fried chicken wings (offered gratis ) arrive piping hot an d drink orders are taken. The waiters do their ut most to please while always maintaining that professional distance. As in so many of Montreal's fine Italian restaurants, these blackvested gentleme n d o everythin g right: dishes arriv e like clock work, cutlery is replaced without hesitation, knowledgeable wine recommendations are made, and grated cheese and pepper are offered befor e you r fork hit s th e pasta (th e waiters also somehow manage t o see m Italian , droppin g the occasiona l "Grazie" and "Prego," even though most are French Canadian). The heart y minestron e fille d wit h beans , pasta, and chunk y vegetables is as good a s it gets. The beef carpaccio is okay—the garden variety. The antipasto plat e with canned tuna , artichoke heart, marinate d peppers , slice d salami , sardines, oyster mush rooms, an d prosciutt o an d melon , all set around a hard-boile d egg, is good if hardly revolutionary. Main course s far e better . Classi c pasta dishes—lik e penn e arrabbiata, spaghetti Bolognese, and lasagna—are offered in both starter and main-course portions. Spaghetti carbonara, that heavenly mix of pasta, fried pancetta, Parmesan, heavy cream, and egg yolks, is a bit dreary , as the past a is slightly overcooked and th e sauce i s more cream y than eggy . Bake d pasta s may be th e bes t choice. Both the spinach- and Ricotta-stuffe d manicott i and th e veal-filled cannellon i sauce d with bechamel and a tangy tomato sauce are light and flavourful. Meat dishes are also first-rate. A chicken paillard served with a butter- and wine-based tarragon sauce is melt-in-the-mouth tender, an d th e accompanyin g vegetables—broccoli, cauliflower , roasted potatoes—coul d have been prepared by a loving Italian grandmother. Equall y tender an d tast y is the saltimbocc a Ro mana. This veal paillard is topped with sliced, saute'ed prosciutto and mushrooms an d a sprinkling of sage, and it' s serve d with a side of buttered linguini filled with sun-dried tomatoes. Nothing flashy here, just Italian comfort food at its best.

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Desserts are authentic, delicious, and, most importantly, made on th e premises. A cocoa-dusted frozen tartufo , a dessert rarely made in-house, is scrumptious. Calorie-angst fades in the face of the multilayered cassata and the creamy spumone with raspberry coulis. Those up fo r the classic Italian egg-based zabaglione will not be disappointed, a s the L e Piemontais version is frothy, delicate, laced with lust y Marsala, and warm—obviousl y made t o order. When made like this, zabaglione is divine, a simple dessert to put all those tuile-laden concoctions to shame. IN TH E KITCHEN • Chef s Claudi o DiStefan o and Carmel o Maltese. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Le Piemontais i s set in a n intimate, low-ceilinged room seemingly decorated by a wealthy matron with a penchant for framed prints and the colour beige. The crowd, made up of couples, happy families, and the lunch and afterhours crowd fro m nearb y Radio Canada, is animated. Noise levels are high (but pleasantly so), and the tables are close enough to facilitate everyone's favourite pastime: eavesdropping. WINE LIST • The wine list is another drawing card. The variety and price range are customer-friendly, and there's a fine choice of half bottles and wines available by the glass. DON'T MISS • The baked pastas, the meats, and the homemade desserts—especially the zabaglione. WORDS TO THE WISE • Establishments like Le Piemontais succeed in reinforcing the original meaning of the word "restaurant," which is derived from the French word "restaurer," meaning to restore or rejuvenate. My stellar meals here had me rethinking my restaurant priorities . Sometimes it' s no t solel y abou t th e food . Sometimes it's abou t eatin g well while in th e hand s o f people whose religion is your pleasure.

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LE PIEMONTAIS 1145 Rue de Bullion (near Ren6 LeVesque) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 861-8122 Open: 11 A.M.-midnight, Monday to Friday, and 5 P.M.midnight, Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $4.75-$18.50; main courses, $15.75$47.50; desserts, $5.75-$8.50

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FRENCH IBYOW)

LE PU Y D U FO U SNAPSHOT • Dining in a small neighbourhoo d restauran t lik e Le Puy du Fo u now and the n help s you to pu t al l those trend y places and fancy hotel dining rooms into perspective. Though the food i s modern French , owner Lione l Gautreau claim s that hi s restaurant has no one style and the menu is based on what he and chef Nadeige Seguin like to eat. Prices are a bit steep for a bringyour-own-wine establishment, but rest assured that the quality of the ingredients is right up there. THE BIG PICTURE • There was a time when costly china, crystal goblets, an d tuxedoe d waiter s wen t hand-in-han d wit h high quality fare . Unfortunately , there ar e n o suc h guarantee s o n today's fine-dining scene; you can walk away from unpretentiou s bistros with lasting impressions and leave grand restaurants dis appointed. My hunch is that the majority of restaurant-goers continue to be seduced b y the environmen t a s opposed to th e food . T o test this theory, I invited thre e of my usual dining companions (let' s call them DCs) to Le Puy du Fou, a 40-seat, bring-your-own-wine

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bistro situated o n a residential strip of Christophe Colomb. Anticipating a high-end soiree, the DCs arrive elegantly dressed, ties and all. Questions aris e regarding the restaurant's where-about s as we weave through the narrow streets of the Plateau. Eyebrows rise as I pull u p t o the fron t o f this nondescrip t restauran t an d enter carrying two bottles of wine. I'm immediately taken with the place. We are greeted like regulars and shown to a corner table set with sparkling stainless steel cutlery an d gleamin g stemwar e on a n immaculat e tablecloth . Though I'm happy to be here, I sense that the DCs, loosening their ties, are underwhelmed. A simple soup or salad is offered gratis at the outset of the meal. This i s preceded b y croutons sprea d with blac k or gree n oliv e tapenade and followed by a choice of about six starters, six mains, a cheese course, and dessert. After a long wait, the soup s an d salad s arrive . The vegetable soup i s decidedly lackluster, but th e gree n salad , made o f frisee lettuce, a few cubes of tomato, and a feisty vinaigrette, is excellent. The other starters, though simple, are right on the money. A goat's cheese salad offers a creamy quenelle of Chevre (and a fine Chevre at that) enhance d with herbs, and arugula dressed with a trickle of thic k balsami c vinegar, Homemad e pat e de campagn e has a meaty-moist texture ; its flavour is both ric h and complex, a balanced blend o f chicken livers and pork. A smoked salmon charlotte consists of a sheet of smoked salmon swirled around a fresh cheese, pink grapefruit, and chive filling, topped with baby watercress (tiny enough t o be deemed "microcress"). The fish soup is thick, garlicky , and fille d wit h flake s o f snappe r an d pickerel . Alongside are the usual accouterments: saffron-enhanced rouille , grated cheese, croutons, an d a clove of garlic. Once the crowd thins out, service picks up and main courses arrive in due time. The quail is fried and served cut into quarters that are crisp on the outside and succulent within. The pieces are set around a mound of thick beet risotto, which at first bite tastes sweet but afte r a few more bites become s interesting. Th e dor £ (pickerel), cooked in paper (en papillote) with lemon rounds and sliced artichoke heart, is moist, fresh, and delicate.

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In sharp contrast to the fish is the meaty duck magret with star anise. Though the edges are a bit tough, the centre slices are tender and ideally cooked (cris p skin, no fat, pink interior) . Lamb shank prepare d confit-styl e (slow-cooke d in fa t like a duck leg) is not fo r the faint o f palate. It's a rich, flavourful hun k of meat , which fall s fro m th e bone at the slightes t touch o f th e fork—a dis h serious lamb lovers are sure to remember. By the time the cheese course rolls around, the DCs are raving. For dessert, they opt for another winner: creme brulee with griottines. Not onl y i s the crea m perfectly cooked an d caramelized , but th e pungent, Kirsch-soaked cherries add a welcome burst of acidity to every velvety mouthful. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and co-owner Nadeige Seguin. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE - The deco r i s simple—spongepainted walls , a large framed mirror , a small bistro bar , urns of dried flowers, and othe r Frenc h country bric-a-brac. The ambience i s electric; the customer s see m happy , conversing loudl y about current events in both officia l languages . WINE LIST • Le Puy du Fou is a bring-your-own-wine restaurant. DON'T MISS • The goat's cheese salad, the quail, the duck ma gret, the braised lam b shank, th e chees e course, an d th e crem e brulee with griottines. WORDS TO THE WISE • On th e whole , the food , thoug h no t flashy, i s on a par with many of Montreal's highe r profile restaurants, where the draw is the flashy decor or a star chef. The restaurant business is notoriously toug h and unforgiving . Remove the pretense, reduce the numbe r o f seats, focus on th e food, take a hands-on approach, and, in my books, you have a winner. As one such establishment, Le Puy du Fou is worth applauding.

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LE PUY DU FO U 4354 Avenue Christophe Colomb (corne r Marie-Anne) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 596-2205 Open: 6 P.M.-10 P.M., Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential; nonsmoking environmen t Cards: Major card s (and Interac) Price range: Starters, $7-$9; main courses, $20-$26; desserts, $5-$6

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LE ST . AUGUSTIN SNAPSHOT • This quaint country restaurant, about half an hour north o f Montreal, is a front fo r som e of Quebec's bes t marke t cuisine. Le St. Augustin is an unpretentious 50-sea t establishmen t where chef and owner Jean-Paul Giroux proves that with choic e ingredients, less is more. His food is sensational: vibrant, colour ful, an d assemble d wit h style . Not onl y is this one o f the fines t gourmet experiences in or out of the city, it's also one of the most affordable. There's an interesting and well-priced wine list too. THE BIG PICTURE • Purslane is a herb that more often than not grows in gardens and fields as a weed. I first tasted it at L'Eau a la Bouche, and late r at Toque! , two Quebec restaurants renowne d for their inventive use of local produce. With its young shoots and dark-green leaves, purslane has become quite fashionable in culinary circles, used either in spring salads or as garnish. I spotted a purslane sprout propped against an amuse-bouche of cauliflower taboule h and thin slices of saucisson de Morteau, not at a Relais & Chateau hotel or some downtown hot spot, but at Le St. Augustin. I prepare to toss the purslane under m y teeth when I notice, between the wedge-shaped leaves, salt. Not just any salt, but th e

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best: sel d e Guerande . That seasone d sprou t speak s volume s about L e St. Augustin's chef an d owner , Jean-Paul Giroux. Any man who takes the time to season a smidgen of garnish has got to be from France . His choice o f salt points to Brittany. The use of purslane—and the other top-quality ingredient s featured on his menu, such as Boileau venison, Alberta beef, Maine scallops, Que bec cheese, and organicall y grown green s and vegetables—tell s me that since arriving in Quebec five years ago, he's kept his eyes open and his ear to the ground . Like so many of the young generation of French-trained chefs, Giroux has a technique that is solid and a touch that's light. Meats are pan-seared, vegetables are cooked al dente, greens are lightly dressed, and dessert s are far from cloying . His heaviest sauce is a beurre blanc. And what a dreamy beurre blanc: lemony, chock ful l of chives, swirled around a stack of petit-gris snails and julienned leeks and capped with a thin round of Parmesan. The other starter s are equally ethereal. A generous mound of freshly picked mesclun is lightly dressed with carthame oil. Crispskinned breast o f quail is served with sauteed chanterelles and a trembling poached quail's egg trapped in a thick triangle of toast. A tomat o bayaldi—peele d an d seede d tomat o gratinee d wit h creamed goat's cheese and a side of baby arugula—is a triumph . It's a masterful combination o f three simple ingredients exploited to the fullest. The contrasting flavours, textures, and colours play off each other brilliantly. Though tim e betwee n course s tend s t o dra g a bit (Girou x works with a kitchen staff of only three), rest assured that the waits are justified. All main courses are superb. Roast venison sprinkle d with mor e of that wonderful se a salt and served with pan juices, sweet roasted shallots, and wild mushrooms—oyster, shiitake, chanterelle—ha s th e desire d meltin g texture and lamb-meets-beef flavour . Filet of Alberta beef with a Cabernet sauce ranks right up there with the most tender cuts of meat ever . Its accompaniments includ e baby vegetables and th e fluffiest, most buttery dollop of mashed potatoes imaginable. A breast of guinea hen is delicate and moist; the skin is crisp and golden . Alongside the he n i s a disk of Parmesan-enhance d polenta and pencil-thin white and green asparagus. Best of all may

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be the llops. For a mere $19 (half the price of a similar dish downtown) come six spanking-fresh, marshmallow-sized scallops, seared on the outside and silken within. As if further proo f of this kitchen's excellence is needed, enter the desserts . They'r e al l superb: toaste d brioch e wit h saut£e d Cortland apples and maple ice cream; sauteed bananas and pears sandwiched betwee n sugar cookie s an d toppe d wit h an intense caramel ice cream; and an almond-milk crem e bruise, the onl y variation that outshines the classic. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef arid owner Jean-Paul Giroux. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The two-room restaurant is decorated i n a no-frills countr y style. Dress is casual, and the ambience is quiet—perfect fo r conversation ove r a romantic dinner . But diners seated in the front of the restaurant may find the passing traffic distracting . WINE LIST • The wine list is one of the best selected and afford able around. The excellent Cuve Prestige Chateau Lamartine from Cahors costs a mere $40 . With price s like these, nondesignate d drivers should consider ordering an additional bottle , half bottle, or glass (for only $6.50) to go with the cheese course. DON'T MISS • The salad, the snails, the scallops, the venison, the filet mignon, and the delicious desserts. And the cheese course is a must. WORDS TO THE WISE • If you're the kind of diner whose priorities include seriou s art o n the walls, silver flatware, crystal wine glasses, tuxedoed waiters, and harp music cascading in the background, Le St. Augustin is not fo r you. Here, the luxury is on th e plate, not i n the setting . And though th e servic e is friendly and professional, yo u may want t o brus h u p o n you r conversatio n skills so you can use them to fill the long waits between courses . Le St. Augustin is a gourmet's lair , where, in chef Giroux's hands, you're in for a unique and memorable experience.

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LEST.AUGUSTIN 15196 Rue de St. Augustin Location: St. Augustin de Mirabel Telephone: (450 ) 475-8290 Web site: www.restaurantstaugustin.ca Open: 5 P.M.-10 P.M., Wednesday to Sunday Wheelchair access : Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $7.50; main courses, $25; desserts, $8; table d'hote gourmande, $38-$43 ; bistro menu, $24 (except Friday and Saturday)

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FRENCH

LES CAPRICE S DE NICOLA S SNAPSHOT • This is the idea l spifif y restauran t fo r a no-holds barred gourme t blowout . Come here fo r the food, the romanti c setting, and a heady dose of sophistication. An d while you're enjoying your amuse-bouche , watch the tuxedoe d waiters puttin g on th e rit z with th e kin d o f elan rarely seen i n ou r city . Sound stuffy? Maybe , but the food is modern, ingredient-driven, an d innovative. THE BIG PICTURE • Millennium meal s tend to revolve around intricate arrangements of designer vegetables poised on a hunk of organic meat set in a frothy puddle of spice-enhanced sauce , the presentation a s artful a s sushi, with every ingredient packin g its own particular flavour punch . Yet, with all the focu s on the plate, an important facto r o f the fine-dining experienc e is being neglected. That factor i s luxury. What do I mean by luxury? It's all in the details. Sitting tranquilly at a decent-sized table that's yours for the night. Being served by a

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maitre d' who knows the menu and wine list back to front. And relaxing at the hands of a wait staff that presents and clears plates with the precision of the Kirov corps de ballet. At establishments wher e luxe rules, amuse-gueules are served at the outset of the meal, mineral water is poured without fail into crystal tumblers , a large selectio n o f cheese s is presented an d sliced at your table, and mignardises arrive to soften the blow of the bill . Th e sol e restaurant i n tow n tha t pay s attention t o so many details is Les Caprices de Nicolas. Many talented chef s and maitre d' s have passed through thi s establishment, bu t on e elemen t has remained constant : owne r Dan Medalsy. Ups and downs aside, Les Caprices (as regulars call it) seems to have emerged triumphant. Les Caprice's current chef, Romuald Coladon, doesn't yet have the high profile of his three predecessors: the late Nicolas Jongleux, for who m th e restauran t wa s named, an d his two former souschefs, Steli o Perombelon ari d William Frachot . Now , with Co ladon, the link to Jongleux has ended, yet the restaurant remain s as strong as it was in its early days. The food i s different, though , more modern an d a shade less sophisticated—in tha t finick y Frenc h sort o f way. A terrine of to-mato confi t with oxtail and tarragon seem s to epitomiz e Coladon's bold approach. Served with a thick slice of toasted honey hazelnut brioche and a mound o f mesclun dressed with nut-oi l vinaigrette, the chunky terrine is meaty and fruity, yet somehow delicate. Mouthful after mouthfu l just slips down th e throat, offering intense pleasure. Speaking o f pleasure, imagin e shallots caramelize d in tarte Tatin form served with a filet of half-smoked, half-baked Arctic char. The fish is downy fresh, and its gentle smokiness is smartly enhanced with a veal and elderberry sauce. Quail seems to be the appetizer bird of choice these days. Here it's roaste d to a crisp, sliced in four , an d place d on a mound o f purged celer y root flavoure d wit h parsle y leaves. If that weren't enough, there's also a caramelized apple and—a cheeky touch— a perfectly poached quail's egg gently perched atop the stock.

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Though the starters are impressive, the mains are even better. Filets of pan-seared sea bream (daurade royale) are arranged on a cloud o f cauliflowe r emulsion . Bringin g i t dow n t o eart h i s roasted salsif y root , saute'e d spinach , an d a n assortmen t o f wild mushrooms. Eve n earthie r i s another dis h o f lam b serve d tw o ways: a melting braised shank and a thick, roasted chop . The accompanying potat o an d preserve d lemo n rost i i s all cracklin g potato strings o n the outside and creamy fluff within . Venison seem s like a must o n high-end menu s i n Montreal , and Le s Caprices serves slices of roasted venison leg with a shepherd's pie consisting of braised meat served between two layers of mashed potato. This is deer at its best: tender an d ful l flavoured , like a feminine version of great steak. Rounding out the dish are caramelized quince and pear quarters, and a heady beet, Banyuls, and truffle-oil sauce. Not to be missed is Les Caprice's cheese course, which includes 20 local an d importe d varieties . Thre e selections—serve d wit h nut bread, nuts, and delectably plump dates and dried apricots— will set you back $15, but th e elaborate cheese-servin g ceremony and the quality of the selections are worth the added indulgence . After s o much, desser t woul d b e eas y to pas s up . Bu t the n you'd be missing out on flavours like the lime and almond in the "moelleux" cake served with clove ice cream; vanilla and pineapple i n th e beignet s serve d wit h a coco-saffro n ic e cream; an d mandarins with chocolate served with a shot glass filled with Tanzanian chocolate cream. One thing you won't miss out on are the mignardises: intens e chocolat e truffles , spoonful s o f lavende r creme brulee, a pear an d min t "soup, " and almon d batonnet s bound together with white chocolate . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Romuald Coladon. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • It's all rather civilized, with tuxedoed waiters moving through the three dimly lit rooms, past diners sippin g win e fro m larg e goblets . Luxurious detail s includ e cushy washrooms, pillow-lined banquettes, antique armoires, and

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a mahogan y ba r a t th e entrance—th e idea l spo t t o enjo y a predinner aperitif . Although dress should be formal, jackets are only suggested, not required . WINE LIST • The wine list is a Wine Spectator Best Award of Excellence winner (th e only one i n Montreal) . Connoisseur s will revel in the well-researched selectio n (mostl y private imports) , knee-deep in rare and interesting bottles fro m France , as well as an impressive selection from California, Italy, Australia, and Spain. One complaint: there are only a handful of wines under $50. DON'T MISS • The hot or cold foie gras, the quail, the sea bream, the braise d lam b shank , the veniso n shepherd' s pie, the cheese course, and the dessert. WORDS TO THE WISE • A night at Les Caprices de Nicolas can set you back a bundle. But for that special occasion, anniversary, or celebration, this is the ne-plus-ultra, a true feast for the senses. LES CAPRICES DE NICOLAS 2072 Rue Drummond (nea r de Maisonneuve) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 282-9790 Web site: www.lescaprices.com Open: 6 P.M.-10 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards (and Interac) Price range: Starters, $ll-$28; main courses, $29-$39; desserts, $9-$13

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LES CHANTERELLES DE RICHELIE U SNAPSHOT • Driving along the Chemi n de s Patriotes throug h St. Charles sur Richelieu, you'll come upon the village of St. Denis sur Richelieu, where you'll find severa l historic buildings, one of which is a large Victorian mansion tha t houses Le s Chanterelles de Richelieu. Built in 1905 , this classic clapboard house, with its verandas, turrets, and expansive gardens, was converted sk years ago into a Relais Gastronomique b y Patrick Vesnoc and his partner, Nicole Houle . Chef Vesnoc's style is traditional cuisin e d u terroir. Everything from the guinea-hen stock to the parfait glac£ is homemade. Hi s preference is for simply prepared Frenc h classics with a n emphasis on intens e flavours , high-qualit y ingredi ents, and regional produce. THE BIG PICTURE • In true French style, Patrick Vesnoc and his partner, Nicole Houle, share the responsibilitie s a t their restau rant, Les Chanterelles de Richelieu, with Mme. Houle "en salle," and M. Vesnoc as executive chef. Seated in a small parlour adjacent to the main dinin g room , you're sure to spo t che f Vesnoc, in ful l che f regalia, weaving his way around th e dining room, chattin g u p patrons . Th e aromas swirling about the room are intoxicating. Guinea hen, the Richelieu Valley's most celebrated ingredient , is prominently featured on the menu. The guinea-hen consomm6 consists of an intense broth, deep amber in colour, served with a garnish of baby profiteroles and sliced broccoli stems. Equally appealing is a cut-vegetable soup laced with fresh coriander , and a rich cream soup made with chanterelles . Continuing the guinea-he n them e are guinea-hen rillette s served with onion marmalade . Guinea hen is a leaner mea t tha n duck or goose, which means the rillettes lack the melting, almost

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drippy texture rillett e lovers enjoy . Nonetheless , the flavou r i s pleasing. Escargots is a popular menu item these days. Here chef Vesnoc enhances these resilient bits of meat with the usual garlicky flavouring, mixes them with Provenca l vegetables, and bakes them in phyllo. The result is crisp, flavour-packed parcels further en hanced with a compote of leeks. Smoked salmon is also everywhere, and kudos to Les Chanterelles for smoking their salmon in-house. Unfortunately, rolled in a crepe and gratinee d with a white bechamel sauce as it is here, the salmon's smokiness is quashed and it s fishiness is enhanced. There's no missin g the similarit y o f the mai n courses : mea t covered with a glistening dark sauce, and th e same accompaniments, potato an d celery root puree topped with turned vegetables. Of course, the meats and sauces are different. There' s quail with a sweetish cassis sauce; deer with a soft, almost braised, texture topped with a bordelaise sauce; and breast of—you guessed it—guinea he n wit h a Champagn e an d shallot-base d sauce . Everything's quite nice, but the chef's use of intense, reduced stocks overwhelms the meat, especially the quail and the guinea hen. For thos e with hearty appetites, a selection o f local and im ported cheese is an option. Desserts include a three-chocolate parfait glace, a nougat glace swirled with a thick caramel sauce, and a creme bruise lacking the requisite supercreamy texture, but scarfable for its vanilla loveliness nonetheless. Service at Les Chanterelles is attentive, discreet, and thoroughly professional. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef an d co-owner Patrick Vesnoc. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The mai n floo r include s on e large dining room and three smaEer parlours. High ceilings lined with tin mouldings , as well as columns, chandeliers, wood panelling, an d wainscotting, add to th e elegan t maison-bourgeois e setting.

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WINE LIST • The wine list isn't very long, but the selections are fairly priced and well chosen. DON'T MISS • All the dishes with guinea hen. WORDS TO THE WISE • The overwhelming feeling you'll take away fro m Le s Chanterelles i s satisfaction—it's al l so civilized . This is a very special place, certainly worth th e 40-minute drive out of town. LES CHANTERELLES DE RICHELIEU 611 Chemin de Patriotes Location: St. Denis sur Richelieu Telephone: (450) 787-1167 Web site: www.leschanterelles.com Open: dinner, 5 P.M.-10 P.M., Wednesday to Saturday; brunch, 1 1 A.M.-2 P.M., Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, S4.75-$7.75; main courses, $15.95-$28.50; desserts, $4.95-$6.95; seven-course menu gourmande, $49.75

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LES CHENET S SNAPSHOT • An evening at Les Chenets reminds one of the days when haut e cuisin e was ruled by rotund Frenc h chef s wieldin g large quantities of butter, cream, and filet mignon, an d sommeliers offerin g rar e wines an d poten t digestifs . For three decade s now, this legendary restaurant has been offering Montrealers classic French dishes like coq au vin, frog's legs , and Dove r sole in a civilized, haute bourgeoi s setting . Thoug h th e gargantua n wine list is one of the finest in North America, many of the impressive wines and rar e Cognacs may be too price y for most customers .

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THE BIG PICTURE • Whenever my faith i n the world of haute cuisine is quashed by a meal of watermelon risotto , tuna wit h brown-sugar sauce , and cloudberr y creme bruise, I reach with desperation fo r the bibl e o f haut e cuisine , the Larousse Gastronomique. I find great comfort in flipping through this 1,200-page tome, soaking up the historical references, the recipes, and thousands o f pictures. Fro m sauce Albufera t o vol-au-ven t pastry shells, the Larousse is the reference for traditionalists, who tend to look dow n o n today's emerging "world cuisine. " Le s Chenets is the ideal restaurant fo r such epicureans. The ultraclassical menu is right out o f second-year cooking class. The list of selections— escargots bourguignonnes, soupe a 1'oignon, filets de boeuf Rossini — seems endless, without a whiff of anything ethnic or "nouvelle." At a recent meal, the first round of starters includes rabbit terrine, cream of watercress soup, and truffled foi e gras. The rabbit terrine is the clea r winner, This thick slice of pate', served with a spoonful of chopped aspic, is perfectly seasoned and clearly tastes of rabbit (so many terrines taste only of meat). Though soups are usually a reliable choice in French restaurants, this cream of watercress is a dud. Not only does it lack the fresh, peppery taste of watercress, but als o its temperature is no mor e than lukewarm. Also disappointing i s the foi e gras. Although the presentatio n is lovely (the slice of liver arrives on an eye-popping checkerboardpatterned aspic base that must have taken the chef hours to create), the foi e gra s is gray, cold, and lackin g in flavour. The fou r accompanying toast points are plain white bread instead of buttery brioche, which is the ideal match for foie gras. The second round of appetizers fare somewhat better. A seafood feuillete ' consists of a generous portion o f scallops, shrimp, and lobster covered in a cream sauce that's sinfully rich and delicious. Equally decadent, ari d als o toppe d wit h a featherligh t square of puff pastry, is a bowl of escargots Chablisienne—large, plump snails swimming in a creamy sauce enhanced with mushrooms and white Burgundy wine. On the lighter side is a hearts of palm sala d dressed with a mustard vinaigrett e so perfectly balanced that one wishes Les Chene'ts would sell it commercially. Main courses include beef Wellington, duck with Cointreau, and a halibut and salmon duo. The filet of beef is toothsome, bu t

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instead of being a pastry-wrapped parcel, it's a far less glamorous slice in a ring of soggy pastry with a smear of mushroom duxelles and abutton o f foie gras in its centre—hardly as luxurious as one would have expected. I wouldn't hesitat e to recommen d th e duc k with Cointreau . The texture of the breast meat is melting, and the flavour, well enhanced with a generous shot of orange liqueur, is superb. The fis h duo , dubbe d "L e Delice d e Chambord," makes on e yearn for something modern. The two delicate filets, blanketed in thick, buttery sauces (hollandaise and beurre blanc), are a far cry from today' s simple grilled fish with lemon. The accompanying broccoli pur6e also holds little appeal. It would be a shame to end a French meal without dessert , especially on e o f th e excellen t one s offere d here . Th e Gran d Marnier parfait i s heavenly. The crape s Suzette are laced with a caramel sauce that i s both liqueur-laced an d assertivel y orange. My only complaint i s that the y aren' t prepare d tableside, elimi nating half the fun. Service at this establishmen t i s friendly, well paced, and pro fessional. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Michel Gillet. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Hundreds of different-sized cop per pots adorn th e walls of the narrow , two-level dinin g room . The roo m i s very quiet, wit h man y customer s hardl y speakin g above a whisper. Though time s have changed, this remain s the kind of restaurant reserve d for special occasions, a place worthy of a jacket and tie and expensive jewelry. WINE LIST • There ar e a staggering 48,000 bottles o n thi s list, which sits, like an original leather-bound cop y of the unabridged Oxford English Dictionary, o n a wooden bookstan d i n a corner . The heavy, plasticized pages contain handwritten listing s of Burgundies, Bordeaux , Sauternes, Reislings , Champagnes, an d th e most extensiv e collectio n o f Cognac s i n th e worl d (certifie d i n 1999 by Th e Guinness Book o f World Records). Choosin g a wine from such a heady list is a challenging and intimidating task . But

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you'll soon discover that most of the wines are out of range pricewise, or are listed as part of the restaurant's "collection" (i.e., not for sale). With a few words of advice from th e maltre d', you'll be fine, though you might end up with a run-of-the-mill selection found on many wine lists around town. DON'T MISS • The rabbit terrine, the seafood feuillete, the duck with Cointreau, and the crepes Suzette. WORDS TO THE WISE • This restauran t wouldn't b e m y firs t recommendation fo r ambitious gourmets. But for those who still revel in the past or ar e searching for a taste of days gone by, Les Chenets provides a civilized, high-class dinin g experienc e with plenty of old-fashioned savoi r faire. LES CHENETS

2075 Rue Bishop (near de Maisonneuve) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 844-1842 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.—3 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.-11 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $5.50-$12.50; main courses, $23-$39; desserts, $4.25-$7; four-course table d'hote menu, from $35

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LES CHEVRE S SNAPSHOT • Outremont's Le s Chevres i s loaded wit h charm . The menu's emphasis on fresh and seasonal vegetables is a breath of fresh air on Montreal's meat-happ y landscape. One hardly expects les s fro m restaurateu r Claud e Beausoleil , the ma n wh o founded Citru s and Chez L'fipicier. Beausoleil can also spot a talented che f a mile away . His partners are two of Montreal's best, Stelio Perombelo n (forme r che f of Les Caprices de Nicolas an d Lemeac) and Patrice Demers (former pastry chef of Lemeac). For those who insist on protein with their greens, Perombelon always includes a meat and fish of the day, as well as a hot o r cold foie gras appetizer. THE BIG PICTURE • With s o many rethinking thei r lov e affai r with beef these days, the ne w upscale, vegetable-focused restau rant Les Chevres seems a stroke of genius. It may be just coincidence, of course, yet there's no denying owner Claude Beausoleil is a man wh o understand s tha t moder n lif e demand s constan t change and innovation . Beausoleil's partners, chef Stelio Perombelon an d pastry chef Patrice Demers , have create d a styl e o f cuisin e t o matc h Les Chevres' playful setting . In lesser hands, a vegetable menu coul d be a disaster. But Perombelon i s up to the challenge. Rather than focusing on vegetarian staples such as tofu o r textured vegetable protein (TVP) , his goal is to elevate vegetables to a starring role, exploiting all possibilities o f colour, texture, and flavour . Instead of the usual boiled-and-sliced red beets, Perombelon uses Chioggi a beet s paire d wit h Gal a apple s i n a cold terrin e bound togethe r wit h hot-pin k borsch t jelly. He use s the sam e beets—sliced cold-cu t thin—to grea t effec t a s an accompani ment to a lunchtime goat's cheese tartlet. The advantage of this kind of menu is its emphasis on seasonality. In asparagus season, white asparagus is transformed into a

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velvety and rich soup topped with asparagus tips and a summertruffle crouton . Asparagus again pops up i n a dish of white and green asparagu s set ato p smal l crape s fille d wit h caramelized onions. Lif t th e crepe s and you'll fin d a bed o f sauteed morels , king mushrooms , an d salsify , th e whol e lightl y enhance d with truffle. It' s a n exquisite mix, and comple x enough to mak e you forget all those filet mignons and veal chops. Even when the kitche n take s a few liberties with th e season, the result s ar e fantastic. Case i n point : a delicious carro t an d parsnip risott o toppe d wit h a mound o f Parmesan shard s an d spring sprouts. Occasionally, Perombelon puts forward a flavour combination that seem s a bit to o risque . A crisp and metin g slice of sauteed foie gra s is served with a quenell e o f parsni p purie, saute'ed nameko mushrooms, and—ge t this—crispy chocolate crumbs . The pairing of foie an d parsnip s i s inspired (th e ultimate high brow-lowbrow coupling) , but t o me , the chocolate' s sweetness doesn't mingle well with all those earthy flavours. I almos t hat e to admi t it, but th e dishe s I enjo y mos t at Les Chevres are the ones with meat and seafood. What's so nice about these dishes is the interplay when those wonderful vegetables are paired with something othe r tha n eac h other. The sweetbreads , served with a warm asparagus salad, are crisp on the outside and airy within. And a dish of four seared scallops served on a bed of chive-studded mashe d potatoes topped with baby greens is a revelation. The scallops are lightly caramelized , medium-rare, an d melting—one can't imagine scallops being any better. It's refreshing to see a restaurant where the pastry department is allotted as much importance as the savoury kitchen. Pastry chef Patrice Demers is a minimalist with presentation and a maximalist with flavour. Standout dessert s includ e a chocolat e poun d cak e with a squiggle o f chocolat e ganach e served wit h a vibrant anis e ice cream, and a whimsical apricot trio—yogourt panna cotta top ped with purged apricot, apricot sorbet, and a pristine poached apricot half—served wit h a slice of frangipane-gratine'ed poun d

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cake. Another favourit e i s the rhubar b shortcak e mad e with a buttery tea biscuit, rhubarb sorbet, and rhubarb compote . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and co-owner Stelio Perombelon an d pastry chef and co-owner Patrice Demers. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The decor , masterminded b y Quebec's iiber restauran t designer Jean-Pierr e Viau, would best be described as psychedelic Martha Stewart . The 68-seat room is divided into two sections. The main room—the larger of the two —includes a windowed pastry kitchen and a private dining room for 16 . The second room is dominated b y a 10-seat bar. Walls are painted avocad o green, accented by baby blue and vivid orange . Chairs an d banquette s ar e covere d i n chestnut-brow n fau x fur, and there' s a large tabl e betwee n th e tw o room s loade d wit h cheese wheels of all shapes and sizes. WINE LIST • Sommelier Yves Larose has the task of pairing wine with this wide array of vegetable flavours . The primarily Frenc h wine lis t may seem obscure an d eccentric , but res t assured tha t Larose is usually on hand to guide you to some exciting discoveries—many of them probably new, as most of the wine is privately imported. DON'T MISS • The soups, the foie gras, the risotto, the seasona l vegetable dishes , th e mea t dishes , th e chees e course , an d th e desserts. WORDS TO THE WISE • Don't mak e the mistake of classifyin g this restaurant as a veggie lover's paradise. This is definitely haute cuisine, with an emphasis on nature's bounty. Les Chevres is one of th e rar e gourme t restaurant s ope n fo r lunch , with a three course table d'hot e offerin g terrifi c value . Vegetable aficionados shouldn't mis s the eight-course vegetable tasting menu.

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LES CHEVRES

1201 Avenue Van Home (corner Bloomfield) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 270-1119 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.-10 P.M., Monday to Wednesday, and 6 P.M.-10:30 P.M., Thursday to Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential; nonsmoking environment Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $8-$20; main courses, $20-$35; desserts, $9-$12; eight-course vegetable tasting menu, $68

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CHARENTES SNAPSHOT • Les Deux Charentes, located in an unexciting part of the Plateau near the Voyageur bus terminal, isn't the glitziest restaurant in town. Yet what it lacks in glamour, it makes up for in ambience. Locals, families, and young couples are seated next to solo diners. The lights are low and candles brighten ever y table. The classic French menu emphasizes seafood and specialties from two Frenc h "departments, " the Charent e an d th e Charente Maritime (hence the name Les Deux Charentes), a region known for it s oysters, butter, beef, and Cognac . THE BIG PICTURE • Those wit h a n aversio n to dinin g alon e might want t o tr y a bistro, where they'll be i n goo d company. Plentiful i n Montreal , these intimat e Frenc h eateries—restau rants Eke L'Express and Le Paris—are ideal for dining solo. At Les Deux Charentes, one can spot several individuals leafing through magazines and newspapers while downing house wine and file t de boeuf al l by their lonesomes . With waitresses hovering, they

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looked relaxed and pleased to be there. Many seem to be enjoying the mussels "mouclade," a specialty of Charente. It's a rich dish consisting of mussels on the half shell topped with a cream and egg-yolk sauce. Here it's given an exotic twist with a dash of curry. Another dis h liste d a s "Charentais" is snail profiteroles. Th e treatment, however, seems more Italian than French, as the snails are smothered i n a Bolognese-style tomato and mea t sauc e and served in choux-pastry shells. The sauce is hearty and its taste appealing, but the presentation lacks finesse and the pairing of rustic meat sauce with delicate pastry seems a bit odd . Soups ca n als o b e disappointing . Th e classi c rib-stickin g favourite, soup e a 1'oignon gratinee , is made wit h a beef stoc k with little depth of flavour, and its cheesy crouton lacks the punch of goo d Gruyere . The seafoo d bisque , garnishe d wit h Matan e shrimp, scores higher in the flavour department. Main course s outshin e th e starters . A dish o f scallop s Cha rentais includes a generous portion o f seared scallops served with a cream and mushroom sauce . Every bite is an indulgence—and a luscious one at that. Also first-rate are the deer chops paired with wild mushroom sauce and fir jelly. The meat is tender an d ful l flavoured, and th e sauce, loaded wit h wil d mushrooms , plays a strong supportin g role. From the bistro-style selections , try the excellent spicy blood pudding (boudin ) toppe d wit h caramelize d onions , an d th e superb calf's liver with a sherry vinegar sauce. Vegetable accompaniments includ e buttery slice s of root vegetables , sauteed po tatoes, and braised baby bok choy. The dessert menu lists French standbys such as creme bruise topped with candied orange zest (bland), creme caramel (good), fruit sala d (okay), and a big hunk of frozen chocolat e cake called "La Marquise Glacee au Chocolat" (as sweet as a drugstore chocolate bar). Although the wait staff is exceedingly friendly, there's no denying the slow service. Given the low waiter-to-patron ratio , expect to hang up your own coat and pour your own wine on busy nights.

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IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Eric Boutin. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The cozy basement roo m i s replete with terra cotta-painted walls, fireplace, small bar, French prints, and bric-a-brac . WINE LIST • A drawing card of this restaurant i s its wine list, which includes a comprehensive selection of French wines, all fairly priced. A bottle of Rasteau C6tes-du-Rh6ne Villages Domaine de Beaurenard sell s fo r a reasonable $43 , exactly double it s retai l cost. There's also a short but respectable list of aperitifs, including several Pineau des Charentes. DON'T MISS • The scallops Charentais, the deer chops, the blood pudding, and the calf's liver. WORDS TO THE WISE • Les Deux Charentes's locatio n ma y seem like a drawback, but one could also consider it an advantage. This warm littl e bistro , tucked awa y on a nondescript bloc k of Boulevard de Maisonneuve East, might just be the ideal spot for slinking off alone with a good book o r magazine—or a stash of love letters. LES DEUX CHARENTES 815 Avenue de Maisonneuve (near St. Hubert) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 523-1132 Web site: www.restolesdeuxcharentes.co m Open: 11 A.M.- 10 P.M., Tuesday to Friday, and 5 P.M.-9:30 P.M., Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major card s Price range: Starters, $4.25-$14.75; main courses, $18.95$32.50; desserts, $3.50-$6.95; three-course table d'hdte menu, $13.50-$28.50

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LES HALLE S SNAPSHOT • Celebrating its thirty-second anniversar y in 2003, Les Halles, Jacques and Ita Landurie's beautiful restaurant, still offers Montrealers a true taste of old-fashioned French gastronomy. With it s Parisian-market decor , lavish food, formal service, and French win e list impressiv e enough t o dazzl e connoisseurs, Les Halles continue s t o provid e a very grown-up—very French — night of fine dining for well-heeled locals and tourists. THE BIG PICTURE • Les Halles is a restaurant frequente d primarily by well-heeled business people who obviously enjoy being fawned ove r by the stella r wai t staff . Th e menu , thoug h classi c French, is less cream- and butter-laden tha n in the past—call it Escoffier lite . It's also long, with many daily specials and an additional table d'hote. Long menus can indicate a lack of focus, bu t at Les Halles the kitchen is as focused as they come, thanks to seasoned executive chef Dominique Crevoisier. The cream of carrot soup has a fresh carro t flavour an d is enhanced ever so slightly with the peppery zing of fresh ginger. Also pleasantly gingery is a half lobster served in its shell, topped with grated coconut and enlivened with a Sauternes sauce. Here is lobster a t it s best—correctly cooke d an d adventurousl y flavoured ; sweet, yet piquant and exotic . One cannot dine at Les Halles without givin g in to the temptation of foie gras. One fine choice is the Lac Brome duck breast with hot foie gras. The duck liver is exquisite, perfectly pan-seared, with the desirable pudding-like interior. The thick slices of duck breast ar e also excellent: crisp-skinned , barel y fatty, an d cooke d just pas t medium-rare . Th e entir e dis h i s beautifully arranged , with the meat and vegetables fanned out around the plate as opposed to stacked in the centre. My only complaint is the lack of a sweet element in the composition, alway s a pleasurable contrasting accent to the earthy flavours of duck and foie gras.

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The salmon, from the "Sea & Stream" section of the menu, arrives flash-broiled an d slice d int o smal l filets . Th e pin k fles h i s fresh, light, and delicate . Onl y the accompaniment s disappoint . The ratatouille is strong and salty, and the green vegetable flan has no discernible green vegetable flavour. From the section entitled "Animals from the Farm" comes veal with basil and mustard sauce. The three large medallions are meltin-the-mouth tender, and the assertive basil and mustard crea m sauce is absolutely divine. Desserts are a treat a t Les Halles—old-style patisserie Fran9aise at its best. Of the cakes and tarts presented a t the table (including a sumptuous St. Honore, a rectangular Paris-Brest, and a glistening, pear-topped cheesecake), one of the best is a crisp almond tar t toppe d wit h glaze d fres h raspberries . Anothe r i s Le Bavarois, a two-tiered chocolate and pistachio Bavarian cake that, unlike so many other mousse y concoctions, actuall y taste s lik e chocolate and pistachio . Service at Les Halles is terrific. The waiters are veterans who know the menu inside out. IN THE KITCHEN • Executive chef Dominique Crevoisier . DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • At Les Halles, the Landuries have captured th e Bell e Epoque glow of Parisian restaurants suc h as Maxim's and Le Grand Vefour. It must have something to do with the way the silverware and the off-whit e linen reflect the glow of the tabl e lamps. The faux Paris-marke t setting , wit h it s tromp e 1'oeil panels and striped red-and-white awning, is straight ou t of An American in Paris (one expects Gene Kelly and Leslie Caron to come dancing around the corner). The diners may be formally attired here , but compare d t o th e stuff y atmospher e o f the past , today's ambienc e is welcoming—more bistro d e luxe than hig h temple of gastronomy. Dust off your best outfit or business suit for dinne r at Les Halles.

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WINE LIST • Next to the smartly chosen, affordable wine lists of many newer restaurants , costly Burgundy- an d Bordeaux-lade n lists such as that of Les Halles now seem old-fashioned. Nonetheless, it is impressive, and those willing to splurge will have plenty of choice. There are also affordable bottles for diners on a budget, even if they're fewer in number an d hardly inspired. DON'T MISS • The lobster with coconu t an d Sauternes, the foi e gras dishes , th e grille d salmon , an d th e veal with mustar d an d basil; desserts are an absolute must. WORDS TO THE WISE«I wouldn't call an evening at Les Halles exciting. Very good? Yes. Classic French? Undoubtedly. Highbrow? Absolutely. For modern gourmets, though, the spine-tingling moments here may be in the past. Yet, for those out for an occasion or a lavish gourmet experience, Les Halles is the place to be. LES HALLES 1450 Rue Crescent (near Ste. Catherine) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 844-2328 Web site: www.restaurantleshalles.com Open: 6 P.M.—11 P.M., Monday to Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $6.75-$36; main courses, $21-$39; desserts, $7.95-$8.26

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LES INF1DELE S SNAPSHOT • Good food an d goo d wine go hand i n hand. But what if you can't affor d tha t perfec t bottl e when you're already paying top dollar for a first-class meal? It's a problem that the new generation of gourmet BYOWs like Les Infideles is trying to ad dress. With it s plant-filled picture window s frame d i n staine d glass, Les Infideles's exterior offers fe w clues to the room' s spiff y contemporary decor. With such a clean backdrop, one expects fusion cuisine and towering plate presentations. Not quite. Chef and co-owner Patrick Garneau has concocted a menu that is part bistro, part innovative Quebec cuisine. THE BIG PICTURE • Everything on Les Infideles's hand-printed menu look s enticing . Appetizer s include bee f marro w bones , marinated Arctic char, and a puff pastry cushion laden with mussels and leek. The marrow is sheer carnivore heaven. Three bones of various sizes arrive on a large plate with croutons and a ramekin of grey sea salt. Custom dictates that you scoop out the trembling marrow with a small spoon, set it on a crouton, an d sprinkl e it with salt. The taste is the essence of beef and the pudding-like texture is akin to those other two luxurious foodstuffs: scallop s and foie gras. Superb. The marinated Arctic char is just as delicious. The fish is sliced thick enough fo r one to enjo y a few bites before i t melts on th e palate. Served alongside is a roun d o f re d onion , tomato, an d mango salsa wrapped in a ribbon of cucumber. The salsa is an excellent touch, adding sweetness and acidity to offset th e richness of the fish. The mussel starter is the most classic of the bunch. Puff pastry, beurre Wane, seafood, and leeks is a marriage worthy of Escoffier . As an intermezzo, chef Garneau serves a complimentary soup of th e day , such as gazpacho. There's usually no middle groun d with gazpacho—it's thumbs-up or thumbs-down. Thi s version, made with a refreshing tomato base dotted with cubes of cucumber

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and celery , is maybe a thumbs-sideways. A bit mor e hea t an d a chunkier consistency would have had me shouting "OleT' After suc h wonderfu l appetizers , main-cours e expectation s run high . The kitchen i s more than up to the challenge. A moist and meaty saddle of rabbit is served in three medallions, the centre o f each stuffed wit h prunes . Its light sauce—a jus enhance d with tarragon—enhance s without overwhelming . Accompani ments includ e thi n green beans , a yellow carrot, ne w potatoes , and a confetti-like mix of peppers. Tender, intense, and utterly seductive would best describ e the Nunavut caribo u filet serve d with a blackcurrant sauce . Blackcurrant is rarely seen on Montreal menus, which is a shame given how well its intense jammy flavour complements a strong game meat like caribou. Another pleasant surprise in this dish is a small pear poached i n spices and re d wine. Often to o swee t and per fumy, pear rarely finds a role in savoury dishes. This spiced pear definitely holds its own next to the heady meat and berries. Trout arrives steaming in a large foil package. Rip it open an d out waft the intoxicating aromas of mint, wine, and olive oil. The fish is moist and delicate. Though the portion i s large, you'll have no problem polishing off every last morsel, including the sauteed red peppers, yellow squash, and ne w potatoes serve d alongside . Dessert, the course that makes or breaks a restaurant, is just as impressive. The cheesecake is rich and creamy—certainly worth every extra calorie. Equally decadent i s a slice of sugar pie with homemade vanilla ice cream serve d in a tuile cup. The tart literally melts in the mouth, and the ice cream is all cream and vanilla. A lavender po t d e creme offer s th e sof t an d flowery taste of lavender flowers without th e usua l soap y intensit y commo n t o lavender desserts . Service at Les Infideles is faultless. The waitresses know their menu well . Also commendabl e i s the timin g o f the meal . The dishes simply flow. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and co-owner Patrick Garneau. DECOR, DRESS , AMBIENCE • Co-owner Marc-Andr e Paradi s has created a great little space. The walls are painted in earth tones,

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and there's a chic beige banquette accented with large red cushions on the left-hand side of the room. Black bistro chairs pop out next to the crisp white-linen tablecloths, and there's a small open kitchen at the back of the room where you can see the chefs in action. WINE LIST • Bring your own wine. DON'T MISS • The beef marrow bones, the marinated Arctic char, the caribou, the rabbit, the cheesecake, and the sugar pie. WORDS TO THE WISE • This restaurant ca n get quite noisy on crowded nights. Parking in the area is a hassle, especially in winter, so you might want to consider taking public transportation. Reservations are a must. LESINFIDELES

771 Rue Rachel East(near St. Hubert) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 528-8555 Open: Lunch, 11 A.M.-2 P.M., Wednesday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.-10 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential; nonsmoking environment Credit cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $6-$ll; main courses, $20-$33; desserts, $3-$6

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LES RiiMFARi S SNAPSHOT • You may have walked past the Auberge du Vieux Port in Ol d Montreal without an inklin g o f what was going on downstairs i n its restaurant, Les Remparts. Unlike so many of the Old City's fusty French restaurants, Les Remparts offers contem porary cuisine . Quebe c chef Janic k Bouchard's menu features

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prime local ingredients assemble d with plenty of creativity. Service is solicitous, and the atmosphere is warm and romantic. The lunchtime table d'hote offers grea t value. THE BIG PICTURE • I'm a t Les Remparts on a tip from a friend who tell s me this basement restauran t i s "my kind o f place." He couldn't be more wrong. The combination of Old Montreal and a hotel restaurant—hig h prices, passe" French cuisine, no parking —is hardly my cup of tea. And it appears I'm not alone, for on a recent Saturday night, only a handful o f tables are occupied. But hol d o n here . On e loo k a t the men u an d m y eyebrows rise: braised deer shanks, semi-smoked salmon with sweet potato gratin, an d wil d mushroom risotto . I'm intrigued . This i s defi nitely not your typical Old Montreal fare. I can't imagine a more interesting contrast to this Old World setting tha n th e contemporary/classi c cuisin e o f che f Janick Bouchard. This talented youn g chef' s experienc e include s two years under Normand Laprise and three years at Le Passe-Partout under Jame s MacGuire (who m he stil l refers t o a s his guru). A style based on fiv e years with the innovator Lapris e and the classicist MacGuire is bound to be intriguing. Take, for example , Bouchard' s version o f mouss e d e foi e d e volatile. The large quenelle of chicken liver mousse is as perfectly seasoned and lusciou s as the well-loved Passe-Partou t signatur e dish. But Bouchard takes it a step further by adding a stewed pear, mango, cranberry, and onion compote—a welcome boost of tang and sweetness. Another starte r pairs rich duck confi t with goat' s chees e and wraps them together i n a crisp wonton purse . Even the smalles t bites ar e bursting wit h flavou r an d wel l enhanced b y the sur rounding vegetable jus. Equally delicious are the homemade ravioli, whic h ar e fille d wit h tende r sweetbread s an d se t ato p a mound of sauteed spinach. In lesser hands, this dish would surely be bland. But bold flavour s ar e another o f Bouchard's strengths, and thes e five silver dollar-shaped pasta pillows are beautifull y enlivened with a veal jus infused with sage. Main course s ar e just a s impressive. Tenderloin o f boar i s cooked rose" and served in thin slices fanned out over potato disks,

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the whole garnished with sauteed shiitake and morel mushrooms. Though this farm-raised boar hardly reaches the gamy heights of wild boar (no t commerciall y available i n Quebec) , th e mea t i s given a leg up by a confit of shallots and a potent wild mushroo m sauce. Not to be missed is the semi-smoked an d grilled salmon. The lightly charred filet is served with a mound of purged sweet potatoes topped with cris p sweet-potato chips. Spear the fish with a fork and it separates into juicy chunks, which you can then coa t with the accompanying coriander-butter sauce . With suc h vivid colours, contrastin g textures, and pur e flavours , thi s certainl y ranks as one of the most inspired salmon dishes around. Don't neglect the cheese selection, which, though small, offer s high-quality Quebec and French cheeses, correctly served at room temperature. Desserts are taken seriously at Les Remparts. Bouchard's version of the ever-popular molten Valrhona chocolate cake is served with chocolat e ice cream and a swirled disk of hard caramel . A vanilla creme bruise is silky; its bruised topping has a taste reminiscent o f a campfire-toasted marshmallow . My favourite i s the banana tart with coconut ice cream. A puff pastry base (as weightless and flak y as a supermodel) i s topped with a few slices of soft , ripe banana and served with a scoop of terrific coconut ice cream. Service is first-class. Informed, discreet, an d thoroughly pro fessional, the wait staff at both lunch and dinner is on a par with the city's best. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Janick Bouchard. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The decor is in the Old City style: French and pleasantly posh. Enclosed by a low ceiling and chunky, fortlike ston e wall s sit well-spaced table s drape d i n thic k whit e linen. Surrounding th e tables are elegant burgundy chairs , high backed banquettes , an d antiqu e mahogan y furniture. Though somewhat dar k (i t is a basement), the overridin g effec t i s more cozy than claustrophobic , an d th e lo w lights, soothin g guita r music, and shaded candle s add an undeniable ai r of romance to the room.

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WINE LIST • The wine list is short and pricey, with many of the selections at close to three times their retail price (at least the bottles are decanted an d masterfully served). Wines by the glass may be th e wa y to go ; a full-bodied re d Minervois , fo r example , is available for a mere $6.50. DON'T MISS • The chicken liver mousse, the sweetbreads ravioli, the boar, the grilled semi-smoked salmon, the cheese course, and the desserts. WORDS TO THE WISE«Although prices here can be high, bear in mind that al l the ingredients are top-notch. Those on tighte r budgets shoul d g o for lunch, where the all-inclusiv e $1 5 to $18 table d'h6te offers great value. A good time to try Les Remparts is during the International Fireworks Festival in July, when you can savour multicours e gastronomi c dinner s o n th e roo f o f th e auberge, with a clear view of the dazzling display. LES REMPARTS 97 Rue de la Commune East (near St. Gabriel in the Auberge du Vieux Port) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514) 876-0081 Web site: www.restaurantlesremparts.com Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2 P.M.; dinner, P.M.-10 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: recommende d Cards: All major card s Price range: Starters, $8-$16; main courses, $30-$38; desserts, $8-$9.50; table d'hote lunch menu, $14-$18

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LES SARCELLES SNAPSHOT • If it's the homey genre you're after, Les Sarcelles is hard to beat. This South Shore favourite, celebrating its twentieth anniversary this year, is located in a mansion that dates from 1924 . Though situated today on trie far end of a commercial property , one can imagine this residence surrounded by fields 80 years ago. The men u forma t i s a four-course table d'hote, ranging fro m soup to dessert . Service, provided by several young waitresses, is friendly and thoroughly professional. THE BIG PICTURE • An evening at Les Sarcelles begins with a complimentary dish o f cretons that hav e the pronounced spicy flavour of homemade tourtiere. It's a pleasant homey touch that starts the evening on a high note. The starters display the restaurant's commitmen t t o local ingredients. Sliced pig's cheeks flavoured with port and sesame are served with a mound of cracked wheat laced with shiitake mushrooms. It's not a dish you would eat every day, which makes these succulent pig's cheeks a rare treat. Chances ar e you'll fin d duc k confi t o n almos t ever y French restaurant menu in town. Served warm, off the bone, on a bed of lettuce, Les Sarcelles's confit is melting and enhanced with a simple mustard vinaigrette. The presentation i s decidedly slapdash, but what the dish lacks in artistry it makes up for in taste. The only plate remarkable for its look is a trout mousse rolled in sheets of nori and phyllo dough, the whole served with garlicky lobster butter an d spinach coulis. Hot nor i has an unappealing flavour, and i n this assembly, its papery texture is rough next to the mousse. Main course s range from goo d t o thrilling . A large quai l stuffed wit h groun d boa r meat , toppe d wit h a n abundanc e of sauteed oyster mushrooms, is all tender flesh and earthy, rich filling. A nage de poissons includes salmon, scallops, and a delectable chunk of trout. It arrives submerged in a broth "au parfums d e

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Provence" that for some reason tastes not o f the expected saffron , herbs, or pastis, but onl y of chicken. The best of the mains is one of the oddest you'll ever set eyes on. Two gigantic shrimp, each the size of a small lobster tail, arrive sheathed i n a golden feuill e d e brick ( a pastry similar to phyEo, only sturdier) . The accompanyin g sauc e is an emulsio n o f coconut and blood-orange juice. After slicing off an initial bite, pick up the shrimp like a taco and dip it in the spicy sauce that works wonders at enhancing the subtle flavours. But this dish is all about texture, with the crusty shell playing off the resilient, sof t fles h of the shrimp. What fun! The vegetables are disappointing. Eac h dish feature s the same assortment o f steamed broccoli, cauliflower , and baby carrots. There are three desserts available, all made in-house. Le Torrefacteur i s a coffee mouss e cake that, though fa r from exciting , is perfectly respectable. A maple parfait glace, simply presented with a dusting o f cocoa, has the requisite cream y and weepy texture. Less thrilling is a peach trottoir, a puff-pastry tart topped with cold peaches minced beyond recognition . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Patrick Marius. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE « The dinin g are a is divided int o several smal l room s ove r thre e storeys . Perio d detail s includ e hardwood floors, wainscotting, ebony mouldings, and pine chairs set around antique pine tables. Adding to the air of French Canadian countr y chi c are homey accents suc h a s cotton placemats , bric-a-brac-filled armoires , granny-style chandeliers, an d drapes and prints featuring duck-hunting motifs . WINE LIS T • Les Sarcelles' wine list i s short, French , and wel l priced. DON'T MISS « The stuffe d quail , th e coconu t shrimp , an d th e maple parfait. WORDS TO THE WISE • South Shore residents are lucky to have a restaurant of this calibre in their back yard. If you've had your

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fill of reality television or nights chained to the stove, Les Sarcelles provides a nice escape while maintaining that homey feel. Bear in mind tha t thoug h servic e is strong, i t ca n be slo w o n crowde d nights. LES SARCELLE S

1031 Avenue Victoria Location: St. Lambert Telephone: (450) 671-0946 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.-10 P.M., daily; Sunday brunch, 1 1 A.M.-2 P.M. Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Four-course table d'h6te menu, $23.95-$54.90

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LESTROISTILLEULS SNAPSHOT • Since it opened in the mid-seventies, the restaurant of Canada's first Relais & Chateau hotel, the Hostellerie Les Trois Tilleuls, has been considered on e o f Quebec's finer examples of culinary sophistication . Th e good new s i s that no t muc h ha s changed. The food is still classic French, the decor is still institu tional country, and the best views of the nearby Riviere Richelieu are still to be had at lunchtime. But be warned: prices are steep. THE BIG PICTURE • Like other surviving French restaurants of its era—La Sapiniere, Les Halles, Les Chenets—Les Trois Tilleuls is not about cutting-edge cuisine. Ask any waitress here, and she'll candidly tell you that they've tried to serve more modern fare, but the establishe d clientele—compose d mostl y o f gourme t Mon trealers and tourists—balks, demanding a return to the classics . End of story.

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This is a good restaurant, save for one problem: consistency. The quail liver parfait, for example, offers a thick slice cut from a terrine that's overly large and far too rich to finish. A better choice of starter is the Richelieu Valley potage. The simple vegetable cream soup is right on—perfectl y seasoned , and with a depth of flavour that could only have come from a n intense homemade chicken stock . Another deliciou s starte r i s the sweetbreads "faco n Troi s Tilleuls." A whole shelled lobster claw tops a round pile of sweetbreads layered with sautie d spinac h an d flecked with perfectl y cooked lobste r meat . This luxurious , colourful dis h come s garnished with a single nasturtium blosso m an d is served with two matching sauces, lobster and veal. Main course s revea l mor e up s an d downs . A supreme o f guinea he n wit h mapl e vinega r an d re d frui t i s an up . Serve d fanned ou t nex t to a pile of warm strawberries an d blueberries , the white meat has a melt-in-your-mouth texture. Better yet, the flavour is well matched with the tangy maple sauce. Expertly prepared b y the wai t staf f tableside , th e five-peppe r entrecote features a creamy Cognac-enhanced peppe r sauce. The problem is the taste-to-valu e ratio : on e ca n easily find the sam e quality steak in many Montreal restaurants for about half the price. The salmon and flounder duo comes with a strong butter sauce made from a local beer known as Gargouille. It's a dish worth trying, provided the fish is properly cooked. At times, it can be dry and overcooked, and the butter-beer sauc e can be heavy and cloying . The most satisfying cours e at Les Trois Tilleuls is dessert. The "Plaisir du Chef" consists of a light custard cream sandwiched between thin sugar wafers, a generous scattering of local wild blackberries, and an ambrosial scoo p of strawberry sorbet. The ho t appl e tar t wit h vanill a ic e cream feature s a cris p round of pastry covered in a circle of thin apple slices. The homemade ice cream is served in a brandy-snap cookie basket garnished with sliced strawberries. If you're in the mood fo r chocolate, tr y the assiett e gourmande . The pairing of creamy white-chocolat e mousse, dark-chocolate sorbet, and a chocolate fondant cake with a warm runny centre is sensational. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Jean-Francois Methot .

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DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • This restauran t feature s high backed mapl e chairs set around large , linen-covered dinin g ta bles. The beamed ceiling s an d wood-panelle d wall s hung with Canadian landscapes make for an authentic country feeling. The surrounding terrac e has grouping s of Adirondack dec k chairs arranged for optimum views of the Richelieu. In short, it's everything you'd expect a Quebec: country inn to be. WINE LIST • The wine list at Les Trois Tilleuls is lengthy and varied, with a marked emphasis on prestigious French wines. Prices are fair, and there's a nice little selection of half bottles. A bit surprising for a restaurant of this calibre is the fac t tha t there' s no sommelier o n hand to answe r questions an d provide guidance . DON'T MISS • The sweetbreads and lobste r starter , the guinea hen, and the fabulous desserts. WORDS TO THE WISE • Les Trois Tilleuls is situated to take full advantage of its superb location on the banks of the scenic Riviere Richelieu. This is a "destination" restaurant, the kind of place you plan your Sunday drive in the countr y around. At lunch, prices are more reasonable . The desserts, in particular, make the half hour drive from Montreal worthwhile. LES TROIS TILLEULS

290 Rue Richelieu Location: St. Marc sur Richelieu Telephone: (514) 856-7787 Web site: www.lestroistilleuls.com Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M.; dinner, 5:30 P.M.10 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $6.50-$17.50; main courses, $32.50$39.50; desserts, $8.50-$9.75; four-course table d'h6te lunch menu, $20

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LE SURCOU F SNAPSHOT • For the past 25 years, the Bonnot famil y has been serving traditional French cuisine in this elegant dining room in the hear t of Ste. Anne de Bellevue. Muted lighting , dark wood work, an d nineteenth-centur y painting s hel p creat e the perfec t backdrop fo r the classi c cuisine an d forma l service. House spe cialties include lobster bisque, rack of lamb, Dover sole, and profiteroles. The predominantly French wine list is well selected an d reasonably priced. THE BIG PICTURE • Le Surcouf resides in an Edwardian house set a short distance back from Ru e Ste. Anne in the heart of the village of Ste. Anne de Bellevue. Although the plac e looks like it has seen better days, appearances can be deceiving. This West Island restaurant has plenty to offer . The dinin g roo m i s ru n b y a friendl y youn g woman , Dominique Bonnot, the daughter of owner Michel Bonnot. The menu is textbook Frenc h and as traditional a s the setting. Of the starters, standouts include a perfectly dressed endive salad, a cold and refreshing cucumber-yogourt soup, and a Cognac-enhanced lobster bisque . An aspi c of leek, goat's cheese , and tomat o i s an interestin g idea, even if an aspic casing may not b e the bes t wa y to exploit these ingredients; aspic jelly must be served very cold to maintain its structure, whereas the cheese and vegetables lose much of their flavour when chilled below room temperature . A shared rack of lamb, presente d i n it s entirety o n a platte r surrounded by a bouquetiere of vegetables, turns out to be quite an event. The platter i s removed to a sideboard where the rack is carved and divided int o portions including vegetable bouquets. The small New Zealand chops are succulent and flavoured with a rosemary crust. The vegetables are well seasoned and delicious . Unfortunately, neither sauc e nor pa n juices are served with thi s dish, making it seem incomplete somehow .

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The Dover sole is presented in the same manner, then bone d and plated at the sideboard. The three filets are topped with brown butter and served with many of the same vegetables as the lamb . The fish is firm and delicate , just a bit flaky, and i t has a fresh flavour. Next to th e larg e portion o f lamb, the vea l medallions wit h morel sauc e seems small . Th e tw o sautee d veal medallions ar e smothered i n a thick, cream-based more l sauce and served with the same medley of vegetables. Desserts are traditional. Th e profiteroles, the best o f the lot , are smothered i n a dark, shiny, bittersweet chocolate sauce. The creme caramel, cheesecake, and chocolate mousse are all pretty ordinary, and, surprisingly, garnished with fennel leaves (no mint?). Service is friendly and polished, giving one the impression of being a guest at a friend's dinner party. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and co-owner Serge Magnier. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • One can' t hel p but b e charme d by the surroundings when entering the front hallway. The dining room is framed i n dark woodwork with burgundy wallpaper and nineteenth-century paintings . Th e spac e is split int o thre e sections: a bright front porch with a view of Lac St. Louis, a front parlour with a fireplace, and a small room (th e original dining room) close to the kitchen . WINE LIST • The wine list is short and French, with wines fairl y priced at no more than twice their retail value. DON'T MISS • The soups, the rack of lamb, the Dover sole, and the profiteroles. WORDS TO THE WISE • Given that the appeal of classic French restaurants may be on the wane, it's nic e to see a hard-workin g family like the Bonnot s a t the helm of a fine Frenc h restaurant , keeping the ol d flag proudly aloft . This West Island location i s a good half-hour drive from th e city centre, but that can be a good thing when an out-of-town excursion is planned.

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LE SURCOUF 51 Rue Ste. Anne Location: Ste. Anne de Bellevue Telephone: (514) 457-6699 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-1:30 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.-10 P.M., Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommende d Cards: All major card s Price range: Starters, $4.95-$10.25; main courses, $18.95-$29; desserts, $4.95-$8; three-course tabl e d'hote menu, $26-$41

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SS'S

INDIAN

LE TA J SNAPSHOT • Le Taj's lunch time buffet i s popular wit h students, university professors, and adventurous business people addicted to the comforting spiciness of Indian food. At dinner, the place comes to life as one of the city's most exoti c dining destinations. The assorted classi c curries an d tandoor-bake d fla t bread s an d meat s awaken the senses, every bite offering something new. Prices, thankfully, are less jarring than a mouthful of curried carrots. The traditional Indian deco r is matched b y friendly and solicitou s service. THE BIG PICTURE • Le Taj's menu is divided int o standard sections: soups, salads, appetizers, main courses, vegetable dishes, and desserts. Or you can choose a thali—a traditional silve r or stainless steel tray that includes little bowls filled with vegetables, raita, dahl, pakoras, and a main-course curr y of your choice. The classic mulligatawny soup, made here with a lentil broth, is hearty, though i t lacks the spicing that would justif y the nam e ("mulligatawny" means "pepper water " in Tamil). Alongside are deep-fried papadam s studded wit h cumi n seeds , which ar e perfect fo r dipping int o the fres h coriande r chutney— a condimen t so fiery with green chilies that it will make your eyes tear.

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A selection of tandoor-baked flat breads, the stapl e of Nort h Indian restaurants, is outstanding. Buttery, multilayered parathas cut int o wedges have a chewy , flak y texture . A large, teardrop shaped naan is puffy and has a delicious flavour similar to a grilled pancake or popover. From a platter o f assorted appetizers conie s seekh kabab, a tandoor- roasted cylinder of minced lamb, redolent of cinnamon an d cloves. Another spicy appetizer, onion pakoras, has a gentle onio n flavour , th e chickpea-flou r batter formin g a light, crispy crust. The deep-fried potato patties called aloo tikke and the potato- and pea-filled samosas are surprisingly ordinary, even when dipped into the assorted condiments: pickle d carrots, yogourt and mint sauce, and that searing coriander chutney . Service a t L e Taj is friendly , professional , and, most impor tantly, well informed. If you request tha t your food be spicy, the waiter will place a glass filled with little green chilies on the table. He does this because none of the dishes, as prepared, are particularly hot. All are mildly spiced—accessible to al l palates. But be warned: th e aforementione d chilies ar e killers. (Th e commo n practice of turning down the heat maybe detrimental t o some of these dishes. Though serving food hot enough to singe nose hairs maybe overdoing it, some heat—and certainly a little more complexity of flavour in the spice department—would be welcome.) The curries served in karhais are all very good. Saag gosht, a lamb stew with chopped spinach, is lightly spiced and the meat is melt-in-your-mouth tender. Another excellent choice is the murgh jal-farezi, a stir-fried chicke n serve d in a rich, buttery sauce en hanced with fresh coriander. Chef Sharif Khan's makkhani prawns is a wonderful dish o f cooke d shrim p i n a generous servin g of tomato-based cream sauce with oranges and ground cashews. From the tandoori selections come s tandoori chicken, which is dry and hardly as succulent a s you'd expect a marinated, barbecued bird to be. The lamb chops, which arrive on a sizzle platter, have a very strong flavour—a good choice if you're one of the rare people who like older, muttony meat . I hav e a sweet tooth, but no t fo r mos t India n desserts . Predictably, I find L e Taj's to o sweet . I'm much happier sippin g th e lovely cardamom-cinnamon-flavoured India n te a in thi s com fortable setting, listening to the soothing sitar background music.

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IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Sharif Khan. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The deco r i s elegant, i f spare , with intricat e Hind u woo d an d plaste r carving s adorning th e high terra cotta-coloured walls. In the back of the room there's a glassed-in ope n kitchen , where a chef is usually at work rollin g naan brea d o r pullin g skewer s out o f the tandoor , tha t classi c charcoal-fired clay oven. WINE LIST • There's a small selection o f reasonably priced re d and white wines, but most patrons prefer the on-tap Double Diamond beer. DON'T MISS • The breads , th e saa g gosh t (lam b ste w wit h spinach), the murgh jal-farezi (stir-frie d chicke n served in a butter sauce), and the makkhani prawns (shrimp in a tomato-base d cream sauce with oranges and ground cashews). WORDS TO THE WISE • For a brief and pleasurable moment, Le Taj make s you fee l like you're in anothe r world—one flavoured by Th e Jewel i n th e Crown, Merchant an d Ivor y films, and Ravi Shankar. If you're no t a n exper t (o r o f India n descent) , go easy with this food; rely on your waiter for guidance. LETAJ 2077 Rue Stanley (near Sherbrooke) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 845-9015 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday, and 12 P.M.-2:30 P.M., Sunday; dinner, 5 P.M.-10:30 P.M., Sunday to Friday, and 5 P.M.- 11 P.M., Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $3.95-$6.95; main courses, $5.95-$19.95; desserts, $3.50-$4.50; lunch buffet, $8.95; four-course table d'hote menu, $22.95

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..:$$

BISTRO

L'EXPRESS SNAPSHOT • L'Express has bee n a Montreal landmar k sinc e 1979, and it's still the place to be. The secret of its success? The atmosphere. Bu t people wouldn't kee p coming bac k i f the foo d were a disappointment. Th e kitchen is reliable and consistent, a feat fo r che f Joel Chapouiie an d hi s staff , wh o serv e reasonably priced bistro far e to up to 400 customers a day. The wine list offers som e of the best deals in town. And the servic e is exc llent. THE BIG PICTURE • North American bistros strive to look old and authentic , transportin g th e tile d floors , the Ricar d water bottles, and the tobacco-stained ceilings of Paris's Boulevar d St. Germain to downtown Manhattan, Toronto, or Los Angeles. But somehow thes e simulated bistro s jus t don't cu t it. Something always seems out of place. First, everyone speaks English; and second, the food is all wrong—either too fancy or too foreign. Bistro fare i s the origina l Frenc h comfor t food . Anything more, an d you've missed the point. In m y personal bistro fantasy , th e deco r i s far fro m film-se t perfect. Th e roo m ha s a comfortable, timeworn noblesse , an d beauty meets function in all the details : the zin c bar, the blackand-white checkered floor, the papered tables, jars of cornichons on every one. Guess what? I'm not even in Paris. I'm right here in Montreal, and, of course, I'm at L'Express. The long, crowded roo m i s crackling wit h Lef t Ban k excitement. When dining with a group, it's best to sit centre stage, between the smokers in the sunny yellow glass-ceilinged room at the back and the nonsmokers along the glossy brown mirrored walls up front. For a tete-a-tete, patrons willingly turn their backs to the crowd for a more intimate evening at the bar. Sip a Perrier an d por e ove r th e red-rimme d plasti c menu s handwritten i n th e chicest of scripts. There's pot-au-feu, os a la moelle, and confit de canard—no surprises here. Tiny white papers tucked into the corner list daily specials. How refreshing to

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see a relatively inexpensive menu with no main course over $20. You might want to start your meal at L'Express with potage a 1'oseille or soup e a u poisson. Both soups arriv e piping ho t i n deep, lion's head-handled French porcelain bowls. The potage is creamy, perfectly seasoned , and ha s that distinct , slightl y bitte r taste of sorrel. The velvety orange fish soup, made primarily with monkfish, is also delicious, and the accompanying rouille is garlicky and spicy. Only the cheese croutons, which are cold and taste as though they were gratineed hours ago, disappoint (everythin g from th e crouto n famil y a t L'Express has an undeniabl e taste of yesterday; it's one of the few missteps of this kitchen). A heaping portion o f celery root salad is dressed with a light version of the classic French re'moulade sauce, made with a mustardy mayonnaise, chopped capers, and parsley. The starters I love most ar e the salads made with duck. The confit d e canard, served on a bed o f mesclun leaves, is rich an d moist. Another salad made of baby lettuces—oak leaf, beet green, and arugula—is tossed with a port vinaigrette and served with a fan o f tende r slice d duck breast dressed wit h a separat e vinaigrette flavoured with orange and mustard. During the chill y winter months , don' t mis s tha t ol d bistro standby, pot-au-feu. Thi s version i s as authentic a s can be — poached chicken , short ribs, and marro w bon e serve d in a fla vourful clea r broth wit h root vegetable s and a hunk o f braised cabbage. The accompanimen t i s the correc t one : a rameki n o f French sel de Gu6rande. Another fine main course is the roasted quail. Served on a bed of wild rice with green peas and endive leaves, the succulent birds are served in pieces small enough to eat elegantly with your fingers. You can tell how good the French fries are by the aroma waft ing through th e air . L'Express was one of the firs t restaurants in Montreal to serve French fries with mayonnaise, and maybe that's why this combinatio n ha s become s o popular, especiall y when eaten with a flavourful, chewy bavette slathere d with a meltin g slab of shallot butter—the ultimate steak frites ! Desserts coul d no t b e mor e classical . There ar e homemad e favourites, includin g a goo d crem e caramel , rathe r ordinar y lemon and chocolate tarts, and a towering floating island capped

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with a helmet of caramel. The pistachio-griottine ice-cream cake is probably th e bes t desser t o n th e menu . I f you're too ful l fo r dessert, try th e 50< t squar e of Valrhona chocolate, or , if you're a dipper, have the biscotti with an espresso allonge . Service at L'Express is excellent. The waiters—apron-clad Yves Montands, one and all—are quite charming, if a bit distant. Tres francais. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Joel Chapoulie. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • It's al l here: th e zin c bar, th e black-and-white checkere d floor, th e well-wor n walls , an d th e small, wooden, paper-covered tables. The scene is straight out of the chicest Parisian arrondissement. Wear your best black. WINE LIST • L'Express is renowned for its interesting, predomi nantly French, and affordable win e list (most bottles are sold for less than twic e retail). The waiters ar e known t o make excellent suggestions. DON'T MISS • The soups, the duck salads, the quail, the French fries, the bavette, and the pistachio-griottine ice-cream cake. WORDS TO THE WISE • Don't even think about showing up at L'Express without a reservation. This is the most popular bistro hi town. Also, as the restaurant's table s are close together, this may not be the best place to discuss the contents of your safety deposit box. But do yourself a favour and dine at L'Express at least once, if for n o other reaso n than to capture the essence of the city itself.

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L'EXPRESS 3972 Rue St. Denis (near Duluth) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514 ) 845-5333 Open: 8:00 A.M.-2:00 A.M., Monday to Friday, 10 A.M.-2 A.M., Saturday, and 1 0 A.M.- 1 A.M., Sunday Wheelchair access : Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $3.95-$80 (caviar); main courses, $11.55$19.50; desserts, $6

$$S

CREEK

LEZVOS WES T SNAPSHOT • Lezvos West is NDG's newest neighbourhood bis tro. The sister restaurant of Lezvos on the Plateau Mont Royal, this establishment fall s somewher e betwee n chi-cb l estiatorios lik e Milos and brochetteries like Jardin de Panos. The menu comprise s Greek favourites like grilled peppers, spanakopita, and fresh fish . This is the idea l restaurant fo r famil y occasions an d casua l din ners on those night s when the thought o f cooking anothe r mea l sets you on edge. And talk about customer-friendly—valet park ing costs a mere $2.50. THE BIG PICTURE • When I arrived at Lezvos West on a Friday night I fel t a s if I ha d wandere d int o famil y night. Ther e wer e youngsters a t ever y secon d table . On th e Montrea l restauran t scene you get used to many things: black-clad waiters, great bread, elaborately folde d napkins . Th e on e thing you don't se e is children. "This rarely happens," said our waiter, with an air of embarrassment. He needn't hav e worried. These young customers wer e beautifully behaved, and their parents looked relaxed. Owner John Drymousis i s a reassuring presence in the room , making sur e everything is running smoothl y (hi s wife, Carmel a

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Tamarazzo, plays the same role in their original restaurant, Lezvos). His suave, relaxed manner is mimicked by the waiters. Even though tomatoes ar e rarely in season, the sight of Greek salads whizzing past will have you drooling. The tomatoes tend to be hard an d tasteless, but th e cucumbers , peppers , onions , an d slices of Feta all glisten with a light olive oil dressing with drie d oregano. Spanakopita, those deliciou s spinach - an d Feta-fille d phyll o turnovers, are difficult to get right; overcook them and the spinach flavour takes on the unappealing flavour of cut grass. This kitchen plays it saf e by undercooking them, which preserves the filling' s fresh flavour and ensures an envelope of golden, flaky pastry. It's surprising t o se e so many young diners feasting o n cala mari. Lightly breaded, tender, and not in the least bit fishy, these oversized specimen s ar e a s delightful a s onion rings . Anothe r winner is the fried zucchini and eggplant slices served with a tame tzatziki. Unlike the usual layered beehive of sliced vegetables, these chip-like slices are scattered on a large plate. Each is crisp and dry. Main-course options include lamb chops, a veal chop, and fresh fish. The waiters will either arrive with a plate displaying several large specimens or run of f the night's selections by name. Highly recommended comes the loup de mer (Mediterranea n sea bass). Results can vary. The fish filets, lightly sprinkled with olive oil and capers , can be flaky and jus t this side o f overcooked . Th e flavour, though, is usually fresh an d subtle . The grilled lamb chops are more satisfying, even though the y lack seasonin g (mor e garlic , rosemary, pepper, eve n salt, woul d work wonders). Sid e dishes include a perfectly acceptable ric e pilaf, an d delicious lima beans baked in a vibrant tomat o sauce. Most customers appea r to round of f the evening with homemade baklav a an d a fresh-fruit platter . Th e baklav a i s its usual honey-cloying self , bu t a n adde d touc h o f cinnamo n make s i t memorable. Th e fruit platter includes a wide assortment of pristine ripe fruit, including strawberries, grapes, melons, and, when in season, blood oranges. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef John Drymousis.

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DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The spac e i s divided int o tw o rooms, eac h handsomel y decorate d i n tone s o f blue an d bur gundy, more alon g the lines of an elegant steak house than you r average souvlaki emporium. WINE LIS T « Lezvos West's wine list i s short an d affordable . I f you're not familiar with Greek wines, you can't miss with the fishfriendly white wine Tsatali Agiorgitiko. DON'T MISS • The spanakopita, the calamari, the grille d lam b chops, and the baldava. WORDS TO THE WISE«There's a wonderful feeling of sit back, relax, and enjoy at Lezvos West, which is probably why it has such family appeal. Think of this establishment a s "Greek lite," ideal for casual celebration s whe n th e emphasi s i s on goo d time s rathe r than the fruitiness of the olive oil and the friability of the Feta. LEZVOS WEST 4235A Boulevard Decarie (near Monkland) Location: Westmount/NDG Telephone: (514 ) 484-0400 Open: 5 P.M.-10 P.M., Monday to Thursday, and 5 P.M.-11 P.M., Friday and Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended, essential on weekends Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $4.95-$13.95; main courses, $17.50$24.95, and fresh fish for two, $32.95; desserts, $3.95-$8.50

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$SS

FRENCH

L'HABITANT SNAPSHOT • Set in a n eighteenth-centur y ston e hous e on th e quiet banks of the Riviere des Prairies in Pierrefonds, L'Habitant has bee n a popular gourme t destinatio n fo r clos e to 3 5 years. Owner Pierre Chastel has created a cozy atmosphere where guests are treated to classical French food flavourful enough to make you forget al l that confusin g fusion cuisine . With its wonderful food and French Canadian decor, this West Island restaurant is an ideal spot to bring out-of-town guests . THE BIG PICTURE • Food as entertainment—what a concept. And, quite often, what a mistake. Many of today's star chefs try to impress with newfangled concepts and avant-garde presentations, using exotic ingredients and foreign cooking styles as stars of the show. It's all about flash instea d of that most important ingredi ent: flavour. I rediscovered flavour recently, and it wasn't in a branche downtown eatery but at L'Habitant, a long-established restauran t set in a 230-year-old stone house across from the Riviere des Prairies in Pierrefonds. Owner Pierre Chastel, originally from Toulouse, has been in business for over three decades, proudly servin g his customers " a la Fran^aise. " M. Chaste l himsel f take s reservations , greets customers at the door, pours wine, and often serve s meals. The men u features , amon g other Frenc h classics, frog's legs Proven9al, entrecote Bordelaise , Dover sole, and escargots . Th e first course is dominated b y soups. One whiff o f the ric h arom a emanating from the consomme au X6res, and you'll know you're on t o somethin g good . Here' s a textbook consomme : dar k i n colour, not a trace of fat, crystal clear, and perfectly salted. It's hard to imagine so much flavour suspended in a single cup of hot liquid. The pea soup, the country cousin of the noble consomme, i s equally delicious. This heart y Quebe c favourite, with it s pulp y split peas mixed with ham, is thick and textured on the palate.

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Main courses include pepper steak, coq au vin, and trout meuniere. M. Chastel himself flambes the steak and warms the pepper sauce over a copper chafin g dish . The sirloi n i s tender an d ros e but lacks the desired seared crust. The meat is also overly embedded on both sides with a thick layer of cracked peppercorns. The coq au vin is simple and elegant. The three meaty pieces of chicken, covered in a serious red wine sauce, are served with the traditional garnis h of saut^ed mushrooms, pear l onions, and crisp lardons (thic k bacon). The trout from St. Alexis des Monts is prepared i n th e classi c meuniere style : seasoned , floured , an d sauteed in butter. The pink flesh is moist and delicate, with just a touch of flakiness. All four mai n course s are served with broccoli, carro t slices , and potatoes. Thi s ofte n no-hu m combinatio n i s anything but . The carrots are potent and sweet, the broccoli is al dente, and the potatoes (oh , the potatoes!), sliced thin and cooked with a bit of onion and chicken stock, are sublime. Any chef who can rejuvenate these common vegetables and bring them to such heights of perfection is a master. Desserts, on the whole, are disappointing. To be fair, the creme caramel, with its especially delicious caramel sauce, is quite good. The coffee, served in a large pot that holds at least three cups per person, is excellent. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Edouard Bischoff . DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The decor is pure French Cana dian, with antique s everywhere . A small ston e fireplac e frame d with snowshoes, iron pots, and a hunting rifle give s the room an authentic "coureur s d e bois" feel, especiall y allurin g in winter , with woo d burning i n the fireplac e an d fros t coverin g the windows. WINE LIST • Each page of the win e list i s a collage of vineyar d scenes an d wine labels, with tin y pric e tags at the bottom. The wines ar e al l French an d reasonabl y priced. There ar e als o two handwritten page s o f expensiv e Gran d Cr u wines , obviousl y aimed at the occasional connoisseur.

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DON'T MISS • The soups, the co q au vin, the trout meuniere , and, in November, the cassoulet. WORDS TO THE WISE • Pierrefonds is a West Islan d community, but i t i s not a s far from the cit y centre as you might thin k (depending on traffic, 2 0 to 40 minutes). L'Habitant is obviously a labour o f love for owner Pierre Chastel. You'll feel at home here —from the minute you step into the charming dining room until your last sip of coffee . L'HABITANT 5010 Boulevard Lalande Location: Pierrefonds Telephone: (514) 684-4398 Open: Lunch, noon-2 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 5 P.M.11 P.M., Tuesday to Sunda y Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $3.50-$8; main courses, $13.50-$18.80; desserts, $3-$4.50

$S

CHINESE

L'ORCHIDEE DE CHINE SNAPSHOT • Those up for Szechwan and Hong Kong-style Chi nese food formally served in chic surroundings couldn't do much better than L'Orchidee de Chine. Plate presentations are enticing, ingredients ar e of the highest quality , and—unlike so many restaurants that drown dishes in the same sweet soy-based sauce— TOrchidee d e Chine features a unique combinatio n o f flavour s with each of its offerings. Owne r George Lau's sophisticated for mula appears to be a winner, as his restaurant is packed with up-

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scale families on weekends and discerning business types at lunch. Reservations are essential. THE BI G PICTURE • L'Orchidee d e Chin e offer s men u item s that appear, at first glance, no different tha n those of the competition. But those familia r wit h th e yin-and-yang world o f sweet and sour and hot an d cold will note the added level of finesse in this cooking. Now beginning his eighteenth year in business, owner George Lau has created a restaurant whose success is based on bypassing strict authenticity an d favouring Chinese food that's lower in fat and in heat than traditional fare . This updated Hong Kong-style cuisine ha s proven popula r wit h a great man y Montrealers. I n keeping wit h thi s thinking, La u places cutlery o n th e tabl e t o avoid "embarrassing th e customers " (chopstic k aficionado s ca n obtain a pair upon request). Quality shine s throug h i n eve n th e simples t selections . Th e wonton soup , filled wit h scrambled eg g and tende r wontons , all suspended in a robust chicke n broth, is one of the best around . The crab and asparagus soup is chock full of white asparagus and crab meat. And the four-treasures soup, again made with a bold broth, derives its quartet of flavours from bits of shrimp, chicken, shiitake mushrooms, and scallops . One o f the bes t starter s i s the five-flavoured spareribs. The meat i s succulent, crisp , and jus t spic y enough t o awake n th e palate for the dishe s to come . The pork dumplings wit h peanu t and sesame are, however, a disappointment. Th e dumplings are all noodle, littl e filling, and the sauce, a combination o f two strong flavours, should be more assertive. Equally lacking character-wise are the spring rolls, which are hot an d crisp but offe r littl e more than a faint taste of ginger. Diners wishing to sample a variety of main-course dishes can request half portions (th e ever-popular all-you-can-ea t or buffe t menu isn't an option here) , but o n busy nights there might be a wait; it would be preferable to order a few full-size portions as well. The sautde d shrim p with chil i an d cayenn e pepper ar e fres h and firm, the chili and pepper adding a spicy kick that doesn't overpower th e shrimp' s subtl e flavour. The sesame-seed-sprinkle d

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breaded beef fingers snap, crackle, and pop with every bite. Also outstanding is the beef with fine Chines e basil. Featuring tender strips of beef, bell peppers, and onions accente d wit h fried basil leaves, this stir-frie d preparation i s coated i n a thin Thai-styl e sauce devoid of the usual cornstarch. Of the chicken dishes, I'd recommend the chicken with honeyorange sauce: a crumb-coated chicke n breast sliced into bite-size pieces and serve d with a honey-orange sauce that's a s sweet as candy. The chicken with Szechwan pepper an d crispy spinach is another winner . Th e stir-frie d mea t i s soft an d spicy , and th e brightgreen spinac h leave s ar e deep-frie d t o a crisp. There's n o avoiding that Szechwan favourite, General Tao's chicken. Again, the sauce is light and without the usual cloying sweetness, even if it lacks the heat of dried chili pepper. Other main-cours e dishes include a delicious lamb and seallion stir-fry , and a delicate Cantonese-styl e steame d se a bass. Presented i n a bamboo steame r an d toppe d with thinl y slice d scallion, the pristine morsels offish are served with light soy sauce infused with ginger. It's an elegant dish, all softness an d subtlety, displaying th e beaut y o f fres h ingredients , minimally trans formed. Another of the many high notes is the steamed rice. Less sticky and tastier than most, it's ideal for soaking up the many fine sauces. Those up for dessert might enjoy the ice cream topped with a ginger mapl e syrup, the frui t sorbets , o r th e simpl e plate o f almond and fortune cookies. Service is professional, if a bit distant . On busy nights, it can feel rushed . Nonetheless, one can't hel p but admir e the waiters ' portioning skills as they quickly parcel out equa l servings of each dish as it arrives at the table. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and co-owner Paul Kiu. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • L'Orchidee de Chine stand s out for it s sophistication, taking a well-loved ethnic cuisine into th e realm of fine dining. With four multilevel dinin g rooms conveying an aura of comfort arid elegance quite superio r to the city' s

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simpler Chinese restaurants, it sets a high standard that's hard to beat. Noise levels are tolerable, despite th e bustlin g atmosphere and the efficien t waiter s whizzing to and fro. This is a restaurant that merits one of your better outfits . WINE LIST • There are two kinds of sake, Chinese beer and other imported an d local beers, and an international selection of about 30 wines (re d an d white) , which ar e fairl y price d betwee n $2 3 and $52 . There's als o a separat e lis t o f mor e expensiv e wines priced between $60 and $120. DON'T MISS • The steamed bass, the lamb and scallion stir-fry , the chicken with orang e and honey, and the beef with fine Chinese basil. WORDS TO THE WISE • Almost everyone enjoys Chines e food and has a favourite place. This establishment stands out for the finesse with which the standard dishes are prepared and presented. Everything is up a notch o r two here. Be mindful, however, that prices (thoug h stil l reasonable by fine-dinin g standards ) follo w suit. L'ORCHIDEE DE CHINE 2017 Rue Peel (near de Maisonneuve) Location: Downtow n Telephone: (514) 287-1878 Open: Lunch, noon-2 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 p.M.-lO P.M., Monday to Thursday, and 5:3 0 P.M.-11 P.M., Friday and Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $3.50-$4.50; main courses, $13.50-$18.80; desserts, $3-$4.50

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MAESTRO S.V.P . SNAPSHOT • There's a good-time atmosphere at Maestro S.V.P. Though oysters are this establishment's raiso n d'etre, there's also delicious calamari—grilled or fried—an d othe r fine seafood selections. The emphasis on dressy plate presentations an d strange flavour combinations ca n sometimes get the better of this kitchen, but the friendly service and laid-back ambience make this one of the Main's most popular casual restaurants. THE BIG PICTURE • Just as oysters latch onto the ocean's rocklined shores, so too has Ilene Polansky latched onto oysters as the main dra w o f he r restaurant , Maestr o S.V.P . Sure , oysters ar e available in many Montreal restaurants, but how many can boast an oyste r bar wher e a selection o f ove r 1 5 varieties is available year-round? Here, oysters are served in many different ways , the most unusual being the oyster shooter. Billed as a refreshing treat, this drin k consist s o f jalapeno vodka, cocktai l sauce , and fres h horseradish. Suspended in. the centre of this fiery concoction i s a raw oyster . Take my advice : unless you liv e for oyster s or crave drinks formulated to put hair on your chest, order a Martini. Far more appealing are the fresh raw oysters, which are served on the half shell with lemon, Tabasco, or red wine vinegar. Eating oysters is a bit of an indulgence. Prices can mount quickly, especially if you order individual specimens at $4.25 a pop. Still, it's a wonderful way to begin a meal. Oyster offerings change frequently. A recent tasting included a Kumamoto from Washington, an Aspy Bay from Nova Scotia, a Malpeque from Prince Edward Island, a Yaquina Bay from Oregon, a Belo n fro m France , and a Martha's Vineyard from Massachusetts. To my taste, the Kumamoto has the gentlest flavour, while the Malpeque is more metallic. The Aspy Bay and the Yaquina Bay are briny and redolent of cantaloupe, respectively. The nutty-tasting Belon, with just a squirt of lernon, makes a fine match for a glass of chilled Muscadet wine.

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After thes e fres h an d salt y mouthfuls, a serving o f fou r ho t oysters Rockefeller falls flat. This version combines oysters on the half shell with spinach and pesto, the whole covered in a gratine'ed blanket of Swiss cheese. The spinach works, the cheese doesn't (it's greasy and overpowering), and you can hardly taste the pesto. I'm not sol d o n th e Louisian a crab cak e either. The cak e is insuffi ciently crispy, and it's thicker than usual. A better choic e fo r a hot appetize r is the calamari . Her e it' s served two ways: deep-fried or grilled. Both are outstanding. The grilled calamari are tender, spicy, and matched wit h grilled pep pers and a summery red pepper, black bean, and com salsa. The accompanying red pepper coulis works in this dish, as it provides a mellow contrast t o the spicy seafood. The fried calamari is even better. With a sauce made with sour cream, gin, and cayenne, the crispy rings have a sweet flavour, tender texture, and a light coating that's not at all greasy. The highlight o f the main-cours e offering s i s a fish and seafood pot-au-feu. A small heating element is brought to the table and a large shallo w bowl, piled high wit h seafood , i s placed o n top. The mussels are heavenly: plump, juicy, and beautifull y en hanced b y an aromati c pasti s and saffro n brot h that' s heavy on the pastis and light on the saffron. The salmon is also ideal, as it's juicy on the inside and just lightly crusted on the outside. But the high praise ends here. The remaining seafood—jumbo shrimp , clams, a single scallop—is unevenly cooked. Some bites are tender, other s ar e tough an d chewy . The broth, though, save s th e dish. Gutsily salted and filled with a julienne of carrots, onions , and peppers, it's delicious enough to stand on its own. The "Thai-style" chicke n sata y is served with rice , stir-fried vegetables, and deep-fried rice noodles. Sounds good, but afte r a few bite s enthusias m wanes . Though th e accompanyin g peanu t sauce provides a sweet complement to the chicken, the meat itself is on the dry side and only lightly grilled. The rest of the dish tastes not o f lemon grass and ginger, but o f coconut milk. The best choic e fo r desser t i s a sorbet plat e that offer s thre e full-flavoured sorbets : mango, coconut, and wild berry. Service at Maestro S.V.P. is friendly, casual, and competent.

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IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Yves Therrien. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Situated on the grungy yet oh-sofashionable strip of Boulevard St. Laurent between Prince Arthur and des Pins, this seafood bistro boasts a decor that may best be described a s Maine meets the Main. Half shells of favourite oysters are nailed to one wall, each identified for curious onlookers . Modern touche s include trendy high-backe d chair s an d blue halogen lights; bistro touches include mirrors , a small bar, and a large blackboard listing th e day' s selectio n o f imported oysters . Musical instruments lining the top o f the walls provide the onl y visual clue to the restaurant's unusual name. WINE LIST • The international win e list is fairly priced and features abou t 3 0 oyster-friendly white wines price d betwee n $2 8 and $175, and about as many reds priced between $30 and $500. DON'T MISS • The calamari (frie d o r grilled), the fresh oysters (of course), and the sorbets, WORDS TO THE WISE • Good foo d need s little or no embell ishment to shine. At Maestro S.V.P., less is more. Unless you're up for exoti c flavou r combinations , stic k t o th e hous e specialty — the humble yet luxurious oyster . MAESTRO S.V.P. 3615 Boulevard St. Laurent (near Prince Arthur) Location: The Main Telephone: (514) 842-6447 Web site: www.maestrosvj3.com Open: 1 1 A.M.-11 P.M., Monday to Wednesday, 11 A.M.midnight, Thursday and Friday, 4 p.M.-midnight, Saturday, and 4 p.M.-ll P.M. , Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $6-$16 (oysters, $21 to $70 a dozen); main courses, $13-$46; desserts, $7.50-$10

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MED GRIL L SNAPSHOT • Med Grill (formerly the ever-swish Mediterraneo) has undergone a makeover by designer and architect Miguel Cancio, the visionary behind th e uber-trend y Buddha Bar and Man Ray in Paris. With a revamped menu consisting of dishes like black tea-marinated game hen with Thai broth, and pan-seared scallops with miso foam, this popular resto is again coming into its own. Most magical of all, perhaps, are the plate presentations. Every dish is artistically assemble d with sophistication , style , and restraint . THE BIG PICTURE • When i t firs t opene d i n Ma y 2003, Med Grill's food came off as a whimper next to the bang of the decor. For a while it looked lik e grooviness was all the place had goin g for it . Of course , corning u p wit h dishe s t o compet e wit h thi s cherry-red circu s is a feat tha t fe w could tackl e successfully. Bu t after a few growing pains, Med Grill's menu now complements the dramatic space. Appetizers include salt-cured foi e gras, grouper and artichok e carpaccio, and gnocchi with beet and Ricotta ravioli. The foie gras arrives in three melting rounds paired with salsify infused with fig juice, fig marmalade, and square s of pecan an d apricot brioche . Not only is the assembly original, but th e execution is flawless. A big thumbs-up, especially considering the fair $17 price. The carpaccio with cilantr o an d white-grape and lemongrass vinaigrette is even more impressive. Dotted with drops of extravirgin olive oil, the dish is topped with a pudgy Malpeque oyster. The flavours are summery and potent (oh, the lemongrass!) and the grouper is sliced whisper thin. It's a dish of melting textures and herbal flavours. Equally attractive is the gnocchi with beet and ricotta ravioli , corn sauce , and asparagus . Thoug h th e presentatio n i s flawless, the flavour s coul d us e some work ; the froth y cor n sauc e is too subtle, and the ravioli hardly contains any filling.

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The fish dishes are the most attractive of the main course offerings. Chilea n se a bass i s marinated i n so y and honey , an d paired with celery root puree, saut6ed spinach, and grilled portobello mushrooms. Though the sweetness of the glaze is a bit much, the overriding flavour comes from the saut^ed wild mushrooms, which have a powerful woods y grilled taste that beats out everything on the plate. Pepper-crusted tun a wit h caramelize d sweetbread s and soy beurre blanc is another winner. The pairing of tuna an d sweetbreads is rare on Montreal menus. With the tuna's silky flesh an d the sweetbreads' melt-in-the-mouth consistency, here is another dish that pairs great flavours with exciting mouth feels. Most impressive is the attention to de tail and the accompaniments, which on thi s plat e includ e a l dent e asparagus , lightly saut^e d pear l onions, and fried plantains with horseradish . In the ol d days, Mediterraneo's desserts were more fun tha n refined. Today's offerings are chic and delicious. Standouts include a molten chocolate cake with three mini-molten white-chocolat e cakes, and a Napoleon made with vanilla sabayon, strawberries, katafi (shredded phyllo), and creme bruise ice cream. The most refreshin g dessert is the banana and mandarin sor bet, which is layered with yogourt and yuzu sorbet and cubes of cantaloupe and pineapple, and served with a fruit consomme'. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • With a fabulous mod conceptio n consisting of ruby-red walls, striped swivel chairs, globe chandeliers, and pulsatin g ambien t music , Cancio has pulled togethe r one groovy restaurant. One half expects Twiggy to pull up a chair at the table or Austin Powers to come boogying out of the kitchen. WINE LIST • Bad news: The selection of wines under $50 is pitiful, and the markup is often clos e to triple the retail price. Good food merit s good wine , but anyon e with a n ey e on the botto m line here has few options—and poor ones at that. DON'T MISS • The foie gras , the fish carpaccios, die tuna, and the desserts.

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WORDS TO THE WISE • The room may be beautiful, but non smokers will only see the back of it, as smokers are seated in th e more lively street-side section up front. The back of the room feels like Siberia—hardly the place you want to be when dining out on the Main. Fans of the former Mediterraneo may be disappointe d to se e the restauran t ha s gotten eve n trendier. You don't have to arrive in hot pants, but a tweed suit is definitely out of place. MED GRILL

3500 Boulevard St. Laurent (near Milton) Location: The Main Telephone: (514) 844-0027. Web site: www.medgrill.com Open: 6 P.M.-11 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended, and essential on weekends Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $10-$19; main courses, $25-$36; desserts, $8.50

$$$

IAPANFSE

MIKADO SNAPSHOT • This stylish and wildly popular Outremont restaurant offers inventive Japanese fare, superb tempura, and beautifu l sushi. Chef Mikio Owaki's goal is to modernize traditional Japanese fare, allotting it the sam e level of glamour we've awarded to sushi. He appears to be well on his way. This Avenue Laurier walkup, now 1 4 years strong, is booked solid night after night . THE BIG PICTURE • Seated at Mikado's sushi bar, I observe my fellow diners: beautiful women , young couples, and an especially stylish, leather-clad, fortysomethin g coupl e regalin g the sush i chef wit h anecdotes about their recen t foray into th e Ne w York sushi scene. In front o f me, a young chef prepares intricate maki

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rolls, every ingredient—nori, sushi rice, raw fish, tempura flake s —within reach. On the far right are dozens of wooden trays of all shapes an d size s containing sashimi , nigiri sushi , and slice s of colourful, spicy , crisp, an d sof t maki . Mikado also does a brisk takeout business, as illustrated by the dozens of sushi-laden Sty rofoam trays being whisked off the counter . The atmosphere has an impressive, bustling appeal, but it certainly isn't unique. Unable to match the heights of piscine freshness or variety of either Japan or New York, Montreal's top sush i restaurants hav e compensated with creativity . Maki rolls—uncommonly heavy on the salad fixings and light on the raw fish— reign. But the drawback of sushi being given a starring role is that many of the city's Japanese establishments have neglected the traditional dishes. Not Mikado. There ar e 3 5 non-sushi/sashimi-related selection s o n th e menu, including traditional offerings like teriyaki and innovative ones like tuna tempura. The overall look of much of Mikado's food is more in the French/Japanese fusion vein than strictly Japanese. The & l a cart e men u begin s with th e inevitabl e mis o soup , which is hot and refreshing. The pork and cabbage dumplings— gyoza—are als o piping hot , not a bit clammy , and generousl y salted, highlighting th e filling' s meaty flavour. Th e sprin g rolls, haru maki, arrive upright an d slice d at a n angle, like fat spears. Pilled with chicken, shrimp, and vegetables, the golden rolls lack only seasonings. The classic shrimp and vegetable tempura doesn't disappoint either. The batter is thin, crisp, and ever-so-slightly greasy. The vegetables are toothsome; the jumbo shrimp, utterl y delicious. The tuna tempura is superb. Wrapped in nori and deep-fried, sliced, and fanned onto a bright yellow plate, the red-fleshed bigeye tuna is paired with a sweet, thick Mikado sauce strewn with sesame seeds. The main-course selection of sushi and sashimi includes scallops, red tuna, and octopus: all are fresh an d perfectly cut (the scallops literally melt in the mouth like butter). The nigiri sushi selections— salmon, shrimp, whitefish, mackerel, and more tuna—are also excellent. The rice is especially good, as it's lightly packed, not cloying, and just slightly sweetened and vinegared. The maki-roll assortment

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includes everything from the standard tuna and spicy tuna to the exotic Kamikaz e (mad e crunchy with th e additio n o f tempur a flakes), Mikado (crab, salmon skin, and caviar), and Tempura (filled with deep-fried shrimp and cucumber). Those no t u p fo r th e raw-fis h experienc e shoul d tr y th e chicken katsu. The chicken is pounded into a flat paillard, coate d with Japanes e bread crumbs , an d deep-fried , resultin g i n th e lightest and crispiest piece of chicken imaginable . There ar e onl y a fe w desserts a t Mikado , bu t they'r e a cu t above. A selection of sorbets (litchi, cassis, mango, and strawberry) and ic e creams (gree n te a an d vanilla ) i s presented o n a dis h shaped like an artist's palette. Those in dire need of a chocolate fix will enjoy the round two-chocolate mouss e cake decorated wit h fresh fruit and a vanilla creme anglaise. Despite th e crowd s an d smal l space , servic e a t Mikad o i s smooth. The only long waits are for the elaborate sushi platters . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Mikio Owaki. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Mikado is usually very crowded, and there's often a line at the door. The room is simply decorated in a modern style. Customers range from groups of trendy Outre mont thirtysomethings to sushi aficionados eating solo at the bar. WINE LIST • There are several varieties of sake priced between $24 and $52, and about 40 bottles of red and 40 bottles of white wine (French and Californian) price d between $28 and $300. DON'T MISS • The chicken katsu, the Mikado plate, the tuna tempura, the pork dumplings (gyoza), and the sushi and sashimi. WORDS TO THE WISE • This is a cuisine that fit s al l seasons : reenergizing in winter; pared-down, healthy, and chic in summer. At Mikado you can expect many pleasant surprises and feel con fident in trying some of the more exotic offerings you might shy away from at other sushi emporiums. The sheer volume of patrons passing through this establishment also tells you that the fish is always fresh .

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MIKADO 368 Avenue Laurier West (near du Pare) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 279-4809 Web site: www.mikadomontreal.com Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Thursday and Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.-10 P.M., Sunday to Wednesday, and 5:30 P.M.11 P.M., Thursday to Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $2.50- $9.50; main courses, $12-$24; desserts $6-$8.50

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MIKADO MONKLAND SNAPSHOT • NDG's Avenue Monkland boast s a n embarrass ment of foodie riches. It may not have the uber-gourmet cachet of Outremont's Avenu e Laurier, but wit h severa l good restaurant s and caf£ s o n th e strip , it' s understandabl e wh y rents have skyrocketed. I f all that weren't enough , Monklan d no w has a new Japanese restaurant—none other than Mikado, a sister establish ment t o Avenue Laurier's reignin g sush i emporium. Th e two Mikados may share the same menu, but the results at the new location ar e a notch belo w the maison mere. Though stylish, the overall impression here is that of a neighbourhood eater y rather than a fine-dining establishment. Perhaps the mood is dictated by the casua l demeanor of the crowd . Instead o f calling it Mikado, the owners might consider renaming it "Mikado Lite."

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THE BIG PICTURE«Most nights at Mikado Laurier are a whirlwind o f activity : chef s slicin g an d dicin g behind th e sush i bar , waiters rushing to an d fr o with decorativ e appetize r plates and sizzling platters of teriyaki, and patrons lining up at the door with an eye out for the next free spot in the dining room or at the sushi bar. Mikado Monkland feels much the same, though on a smaller scale. Despite the swis h decor, patrons are casually attired. In summertime, shorts , sandals , and basebal l caps abound. Addin g to the laissez-fair e ambience i s the strea m o f customer s walking through the room to pick up takeout orders at the sushi bar. The menu is almost identical to the sister restaurant's. Unlike many Japanese establishments tha t offe r ful l meals , everything here is a la carte (i.e., soup and salad are not part of the package). Starters are inexpensive, attractive, and artistically assembled on colourful plates, so consider ordering extras for sharing. The gyoza dumplings are hot and moist, yet not in the least bit clammy. The pork an d cabbag e filling i s meaty and redolen t of onions an d spices . The spring rolls, haru maki , are sliced a t a n angle and serve d upright. Filled with chicken , shrimp, and vegetables, the golden rolls are satisfying on their own, but impress in a big way when dipped into their accompanying sauce. The small yakatori brochettes are sweet and succulent, lacking only the charred and smoky grilled flavour o f authentic yakatori. Also delicious is the beef tataki—thinly sliced rounds of raw beef served with minced ginger—and a sushi pizza consisting of a rice cake spread with spicy mayonnaise topped with smoked salmon , spicy tuna with tobiko, and a single tempura shrimp . A sushi platter makes for a fine intermezzo. Maki rolls have always been a strength at Mikado. Choice offerings includ e eel and cucumber, spicy tuna, Madame Butterfly, spicy Mikado, and tuna tempura. Everything is good, but nothing is extraordinary. Overall, the presentatio n lack s pizzazz. The nori can be rubbery, the fillings of the larger rolls tend to be dry, and the rice is excessively sticky. Sampling a piece of simpl e tun a nigir i sushi , there' s n o doubt about the freshness o f the fish; the rice, though, is underseasoned, lacking that refreshing hit of hot wasabi.

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Main-course plates offe r mor e flash tha n substance. Take the beef teriyaki. It arrives at the table sizzling, setting the taste buds a-tingling. Unfortunately, it only takes one bite to realize that the meat is less than first-class. With large slices of vegetables and shrimp coated in the requisite golden lacy batter, the tempur a prawns and vegetables certainly look appealing. But it's a heavy dish, perhaps better suited to an appetizer than a main course . Miso-baked black cod is another disappointment. The fish is soft, slightl y sweet, and taste s of butter. Without an y acidic element to bring it to life, the richness is overwhelming. Only ic e cream and sorbe t ar e availabl e fo r dessert . All are homemade and worth the indulgence, especially the mango and passion-fruit sorbets . IN THE KITCHEN • Chefs Sushiman and Mikio Owaki. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The roo m i s long an d narrow , containing 40-od d seat s in the dinin g room, 6 at the sush i bar, and 1 2 on the terrace (the only section where smoking is permitted). On the lef t sid e of the room is an exposed brick wall hung with large mirrors. By 7P.M. the room is crowded with trendy teenagers, families with children, and plenty of thirty- and fortysomethings. Though everyone' s gabbing and cel l phones are ringing, noise levels remain tolerable. DON'T MISS • The gyoza dumplings, th e sprin g rolls, the beef tataki, the chicken teriyaki, the sushi pizza, and the a la carte sushi selections. WORDS TO THE WISE • Mikado Monkland is a relatively new restaurant and a few plans are still on the drawing board, including home delivery. Mikado has a reputation fo r elegant, innovative Japanese cuisine. When takeout and home delivery are added to the mix, something is bound to get lost. However, considering the credential s o f the managemen t team, chances are Mikado Monkland may soon reach the heights of the mother ship.

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MIKADO MONKLAND 5515 Avenue Monkland (near Girouard) Location: Westmount/NDG Telephone: (514) 369-3659 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 5 P.M.-10 P.M., Sunday to Wednesday, and 5:3 0 P.M.-11 P.M., Thursday to Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: All major card s Price range: Starters, $2.75-$12.50; main courses, $13-$25; desserts, $6.50

$$$'$

CREEK

MILOS SNAPSHOT • Milos is the bes t Gree k restaurant i n town. Customers gather round th e kitchen displa y to admire the clearesteyed, reddest-gilled, and firmest-texture d fis h i n the city . This is the place where visiting celebrities, socialites, and business leaders come to drop serious mazuma on Greek food at its finest: simple salads, fried vegetables with tzatziki, and grilled fish and seafoo d laced wit h lemon , oregano , an d fruit y oliv e oil . Owne r Costa s Spiliadis insists on the best ingredients , an d the stylish Mediterranean deco r set s th e moo d fo r a relaxed nigh t o f indulgence . With beautiful ne w crockery, pristine white tablecloths, an d im proved lighting, Milos has never looked better. THE BIG PICTURE • Costas Spiliadi s stand s like a proud pap a next to his latest acquisitions: fres h shrimp and langoustines from a new source in Chalkidiki, Greece. "Look at this shrimp," he says, lifting up a prehistoric-looking prawn, complete with bulging eyes, tiny legs, and spindl y antennae. "It's s o fresh yo u can eat it raw."

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This is a man on a mission. Spiliadis's goal is to elevate Greek cuisine to top billing on the international scene . He's constantl y on th e mov e between Montreal, Ne w York (th e locatio n o f his other restaurant), and Greece, sourcing new and better suppliers. His shrimp, for instance, come to him via a friend in Greece, who picks up 11 kilos in a small fishing village near Mount Athos. From the same village, his friend acquires small monkfish tails (known as ouritses), as well as red mullets (barbouni) , considere d a delicacy by the local monks . The key to success with such prized foodstuffs is to do as little as possible to alter their flavour or appearance. Perfection in this case comes down to simplicity. Those gorgeous shrimp are flash fried an d presented o n a plate with a pair of peach-coloured langoustmes. So fresh are the shrimp that you can eat them with the shell. Their meatiness plays well off the langoustine's more deli cate—almost fluffy—tail meat. This may sound cliche'd, but you really haven't experience d shrim p o r langoustine s unti l you'v e tasted these babies. Another treat is the lightly breaded an d fried monkfis h tail. It comes sliced into medallions like an osso buco, with the tail bone in the centre. The flesh is more delicate and sweet than what one would expect from monkfish . A dorad o grille d fo r tw o i s everything you would wan t in a piece offish. The moist flesh breaks into sections and simply melts in the mouth. Best typifying Milos's penchant for purity is a plate of red mullet. A hand-sized crimso n fish arrives solo on a large white plate. The skin is blistered an d bubbly, and the meat is just a tad flaky. With fish this perfect, adding even a drop of olive oil would be tantamount to putting wall-to-wall carpeting in the Parthenon . Superb Gree k oliv e oi l (fro m Domain e Agrilia , available a t Spiliadis's specially food shop, Le Petit Milos, down the street) is used t o grea t effec t i n sid e dishes, especially th e lightl y sautee d dandelion greens , known as khorta. Those who think Greek vegetable dishes consis t only of frie d zucchini an d grille d peppers shoul d tr y Milos's beet s skordalia . These baked yellow and red-striped organic beets are served with roasted garlic, more of that fabulous olive oil, sauteed Swiss chard,

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and almond and garlic puree (skordalia). With the sauteed greens, Spiliadis recommends a slice of imported goat' s milk Feta. Firm and salty, with the tang of goat's milk, this poten t Fet a holds its own next to the powerful greens. One o f the best things about Milos is that you can eat Greek from beginning to end. A recent dinner started with a bowl of kakavia fish soup, similar to the classic French soupe de poisson, yet more subtle. Floating on the top was a crouton mad e with bread flown in from Crete the day before. It's a t th e en d o f th e mea l when Milo s pull s awa y fro m th e pack, offering customers rare Greek delicacies. Chief among them is botargo, an orange-coloure d ro e o f mullet, which i s pressed, smoked, and encased in beeswax. With a flavour best described as caramelized salt-fish, this delicac y may be an acquire d tast e for some. For dessert, there are several varieties o f halva, quince paste , and a choice of sheep's milk cheeses served with hazelnut-stuffe d figs. The best desser t remain s th e thick and rich goat's milk yogourt, speare d with tw o sesame snaps and drizzled with thyme blossom honey from Kythira . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Costas Spiliadis. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The ambience is relaxed and festive. Dress is casual chic. The decor is modern Mediterranean, with open kitchens , display s o f vegetable s an d seafoo d o n ice , large paintings, and oversized urns filled with branches and dried flowers. It's all rather fabulous—even the washrooms. WINE LIST • The wine list includes Greek, French, Californian, and Italian wine s priced a t $3 4 and up . Tw o favourite fish-friendl y Greek white wines are the Asprolithi and the Harlaftis Chardonnay. DON'T MIS S • The Greek salad, the grille d octopus , the Milos special (fried vegetable s with tzatziki), the grilled fish, the beets skordalia, the botargo, the imported sheep' s milk cheese, and the goat's milk yogourt. The fresh shellfish are a rare (and expensive) treat.

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WORDS TO THE WISE • Fish entrees at Milos are served without accompaniments, while the copious side dishes are extra. Considering the generous size of the starters, you might want to skip the side dishes entirely. Also be careful when ordering fish or lobster by weight—you might end up with an unwelcome surprise come bill time . Budget-consciou s diners take note: A $35 table d'hote menu is available daily between 5:30 P.M. and 6:3 0 P.M. MILOS 5357 Avenue du Pare (near St. Viateur) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 272-3522 Web site: www.milos.ca Open: Lunch, noon-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.-midnight, daily Wheelchair access : Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $9.50-$21; main-course fish sold whole for $21-$36 a pound, and lamb chops are $34; desserts, $6.50-$12; table d'hdte menu, $35, daily between 5:30 P.M. and 6:30 P.M.

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STEAK

MOISHE'S

STEAK HOUS E

SNAPSHOT • You might get the feeling that everyone at Moishe's is related, and many probably are. This Boulevard St. Laurent landmark conies about as close to a Jewish social club as you'll find in Montreal. Yet this is no sectarian enclave. The big and welcoming steak house has broad appeal, and you'll see people of many different ethni c backgrounds enjoying the mouth-watering steaks, top-notch wines, and kosher pickles. Even with a reservation, expect to wait for a table on a busy night.

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THE BIG PICTURE • When I call for an eight o'clock reservation at Moishe's Steak House, I'm told by the young man who answers the phone that 8:30 is the best he can do, but I should be there at eight to ensure a table by 8:45. What? "Take it or leave it," he says. "That's the way it is here on busy nights. " So even with a reservation you're expected to wait until called, which ca n take up t o 3 0 minutes. Annoying it is; unbearable i t isn't. The reason? The mouth-watering arom a o f charred meat , and the crowded anteroom, which turns out to be a great place to observe one of the best schmooze-fests in town. Once you are seated, two bowls—one of kosher pickles and the other of homemade coleslaw—are placed on the table. These are high-quality pickles—s o crisp and refreshing that you could easily wolf down four before dinner . Moishe's isn't a delicatessen, but it's famous for a few deli-type specialties. The chopped liver is often regarded as the best in town, and it is very good. The shrimp cocktail is a letdown, though, as it contains n o mor e tha n fiv e blan d shrimp , a dollop o f cocktai l sauce, and a lettuce leaf. Moishe's bee f i s imported fro m Colorad o an d portion s ar e more than generous. Many of the steaks are large enough for two (the grilled Arctic char could easily feed three). But the rib steak is so flavourful an d juicy that you won't wan t to share; if it weren't for th e upscale onlookers, you' d probably be tempted to pick up the bone and have a good gnaw. The New York cut sirloin doesn' t far e a s well. It's a leaner cut than the rib steak and could use a bold sauce to liven it up (forge t the pepper sauce, which is peppery in name only). Sauce, schmauce—the Arctic char is wonderful. Served as a filet close to 7 inches long, it is perfectly cooked, delicate, and rich. Considering that this is a steak house, it's nice to see that the nonsteak items are given the attention the y deserve. Main courses are served with excellent French fries or a Monte Carlo potato : a twice-baked potat o fille d wit h chive-studde d mashed potatoes an d a sprinkling o f paprika. The potato latkes, which taste like a cross between onion rings and hash browns, are piping hot, crisp, and soft o n the inside.

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All vegetable side dishes ar e extra an d bi g enough to share . They may not be worth the added cost, however. The grilled oyster mushrooms are overly charred. The spinach is watery and unseasoned, and it's served with the tough stalks intact—about as exciting as a cheese sandwich. For suc h a powerhouse restaurant , dessert s ar e surprisingl y mediocre. Th e marble cheesecak e i s the dulles t I'v e ever eaten. Another dessert called "Chocolate! Chocolate!" is boring! boring! —more homemade-style than restaurant quality. The wait staff at Moishe's is efficient an d friendly and certainly ranks among the best in Montreal. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Fotis Sagris. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The dining room is deep and rectangular, with masculine wood panelling, wine racks, and mod ern paintings. The closely placed tables are filled with animate d types, all of whom appear to be talking at the same time. Don't be surprised to run int o your lawyer or accountant—this is where they hang out. WINE LIST • If you read ! Wine Spectator, yo u kno w that many steak houses have won top honours fo r their wine lists. With an impressive collection o f over 17 5 wines, Moishe's i s among this elite. Take note: impressive wine lists usually have equally impressive prices. DON'T MISS • The rib steak, the Arctic char, the pickles, the coleslaw, the Monte Carlo potatoes, and the potato latkes. WORDS TO THE WISE • One goes to a steak house for a serious hunk of meat—not foie gras or kumquat creme brulee. Skip the entrees and desserts and splurge on a good bottle of wine. What you see is what you get, and what you get at Moishe's is delicious steak house fare .

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MOISHE'S STEAK HOUS E 3961 Boulevard St. Laurent (near Duluth) Location: The Main Telephone: (514) 845-1696 Web site: www.moishes.ca Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30p.M.-ll P.M. , Monday to Friday, and 5 P.M.-11 P.M. , Saturday and Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $5.75-$12.15; main courses, $26.75$44.50; desserts, $3-$8

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FRENCH

NUANCES SNAPSHOT • Nuances is a restaurant that takes itself seriously— very seriously. The deco r i s extravagant, the men u i s luxurious, and th e wine list would make any Wine Spectator reade r swoon . The tuxedoed wait staff is so sharp that every waiter and waitress can describe the daily specials in detail, and list the blend of vine varieties i n you r glas s o f Chateauneuf-du-Pape . Caviar , lobster, caribou, house-smoked salmon , raw-mil k cheese . .. it's all here and an y gourmet i s sure to be wowed by the intensity of it all. It sounds impressive, it looks impressive, but, alas, it doesn't always taste impressive. THE BIG PICTURE • Nuance's dining room is so civilized, that if you arrived there blindfolded, you would never know there was a casino on the floors below. This is the restaurant for winners; the losers have a choice of another four . Life i s nice in the winner's circle. Swaddled in all this luxury, one can't help but be tempted by an aperitif or a bottle of wine beyond one's means. And you would be right to give in to temptation,

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because this is what Nuances does best. Instead of any old Muscat, you'll be serve d a Pen-in Beaume-de-Venise , along with a compelling description of this delicate "vin doux naturel." Though Nuances's wait staff bends over backwards to please, the food sometimes lets them down . The artichoke veloute, and the lobster-and-asparagus chartreuse ar e a case in point. Ladled over sautee d artichok e slice s an d crowne d wit h cube s of deep fried foi e gras , the khaki soup i s thicker tha n expected—mor e vegetable pur£e than spoon-coating soup . The lobster chartreus e is a sight for sore eyes. The elaborate composition consist s of a sliced lobster cla w standing on end , a fan o f col d lobster tail , and a loose lobste r sala d fence d int o a round b y a ring of asparagus spears. It's th e kind o f dish chef s ogle in food magazines. What fails here, however, are the pieces of plain lobster, which have little flavour and a disagreeably clammy mouth feel . The onl y starte r tha t come s awa y a winner i s the caribo u carpaccio topped with a lacy cheese tuile. Raw caribou is a rarity, and you'r e sur e to enjo y ever y melting mouthful . The purplecoloured mea t is mild, with a sprinkling of salt an d a trickle of balsamic vinegar adding a spark of flavour. Main courses soar due to the high quality of the meats. Ostrich can be tough an d flavourless , but th e roasted ostric h her e is superb. Served with a red-wine reduction, the meat has the textur e of guinea hen and the full flavou r of deer—big-bird heaven. Another sure bet is the Nunavut caribou loin with a cranberryenhanced gam e sauce. Again the mea t i s tender an d succulent , with a discernable gamy flavour unheard of in farmed meats. Although the meats are stellar, the accompaniments—pureed squash, sweet-potato fries , potato galettes, caramelized onions— could us e a lighter touch . Th e od d gree n vegetable would also work wonders. To finish off your last sips of wine, opt fo r the chees e course. Not to be missed, the selection includes a few imported cheese s and a good choice of Quebec's best. After s o much, desserts ma y seem a chore, especially as they are showy, copious, sweet, and rich. Consider passing on desser t in favour o f the mignardises served with coffee .

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IN THE KITCHEN • Executive chef Jean-Pierre Curtat. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Nuances is formal; jackets are required. The space is small for a grand casino restaurant, with high ceilings, intimat e booths , an d a twinkling cityscap e view (ob scured b y curtains) . The head y mi x o f futuristi c ligh t fixtures , dreary flowered upholstery, mosaic trim, and Doric columns—all done up in old rose, brown, and burgundy—comes off as kitschy as opposed t o glitzy. WINE LIST • Nuances has one of the most impressive wine lists in the city. The international selectio n offers interesting bottles at most pric e points . If you nee d advice , don't hesitat e t o as k for help, as every member of the wait staff is a trained sommelier . DON'T MISS • The caribou carpaccio , th e caribo u an d ostric h main courses, and the cheese course. WORDS TO THE WISE • In contrast to the warmth and expertise displaye d by the wai t staff , th e foo d lack s a personal touch and a n overridin g sense of style . However, i f you orde r wisely, Nuances can offer a night of pampering like few Montreal restaurants. Listen to the staff's recommendations . I f you're looking t o economize, conside r skippin g th e appetizer s an d dessert s i n favour of a good bottle of wine. NUANCES 1 Avenue du Casino (in the Montreal Casino) Location: lie Notre Dame Telephone: (514) 392-2746 Web site: www.casino-de-montreal.co m Open: 5:3 0 P.M.-1 1 P.M. , Sunda y to Thursday , an d 5:3 0 P.M. 11:30 P.M., Friday and Saturda y Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended; jackets are required Cards: All major card s Price range: Starters, $9.25-$87.50 (caviar); main courses, $32.25 -$45; desserts, $10.50-$12.25; tasting menus, $51 and $75

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FRENCH

PHILIPPE D E LYO N SNAPSHOT • Philippe Bouteille' s lif e i s a story o f twists an d turns shared by many French chefs who immigrated to Canada. He arrived in Quebe c from Lyo n i n 198 0 and worke d as a chef and cooking teacher before opening a gastronomic restaurant in Tracy, near Sorel , in 1993 , Today, his 60-seat restaurant is going strong. The classic French cuisine is as unpretentious a s the set ting. When asked to describe his style, Bouteille calls it "cuisine de plaisir"—food tha t h e himself like s to ea t an d feature s a s few flavours as possible on the plate. True to the Lyonnais style, everything a t Philippe d e Lyon—save for the baguette—is made inhouse. THE BIG PICTURE • Sophisticated an d refined , chef Philipp e Bouteille's cuisine is the Catherine Deneuve on the culinary landscape. Plate presentation s ar e uncomplicated , ingredient s ar e first-rate, and flavours are assertive. A recent meal begins with a choice of green salad or the classic carrot an d orang e soup, potage cr6cy . The sala d is laced with a creamy and tangy vinaigrette. The soup is spoon-coating i n texture, earthy, and slightly sweet—a model of French savoir faire. The appetizer s wel l displa y the chef' s stella r technique . I n lesser hands, ballotine de volaille with tarragon could be a dreary affair. Bu t Bouteille makes this cold chicke n and forcemea t roll memorable by keeping the meat moist and the seasoning balanced. Those up for something luxurious shouldn't miss the sauteed sweetbreads served in veal demi-glace enhanced with morels, or the fa t white asparagu s spear s paired with a chiv e and shallo t mayonnaise thinned out with hot Beaujolais wine. Main courses are the epitome of French simplicity. Each plate focuses on no more than four ingredients, with vegetable accompaniments served on a side dish. On the fish front, there's a filet of halibut served with an Oriental sauce. The fish is moist arid the cream sauce—enhanced with

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saffron, curry , and ginger—works wonders on its delicate flavour. Duck magre t is standard far e o n Frenc h menus. You'll ofte n see i t paire d wit h gree n peppercorns a s i t i s here. Yet Bouteille takes it to another level by adding a welcome sweet and sour twist of rhubarb . Also playing o n th e sweet/sou r them e i s deer wit h junipe r berries and cherries (not fresh cherries, but the preserved griottes). The meat is tender and strong in flavour. By contrast, the beef filet with red-wine sauce and caramelized onions i s subtle in flavour , with a sauce acidic enough to offset an y richness. Desserts are the most elaborate creations on the menu. Standouts include Le Sirius, a maple cake with almond s layered with white-chocolate mousse . Traditionalists will enjoy the crep e Romanoff, a crepe filled wit h strawberrie s an d pastr y cream . The most complex dessert, L'Antillais, consists of three tuiles studded with cocoa nibs stacke d between slice s of pineapple parfait , th e whole surrounded b y chocolate sauce. Besides the stella r food, Philippe d e Lyo n is a French restaurant in the best sense of the genre due to the service. Accustomed to Montreal service, where an excess of charm often compensates for a lack of professionalism, you're sur e to b e impresse d to by these young waitresses who describ e dishes in detail, offer excel lent wine recommendations, an d lif t th e silve r cloch e of f every plate with pride. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Philippe Bouteille. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Located on a busy street across from a service station, this converted house sits like an oasis surrounded by flowers and shrubs. The interior decor is quite plain: windows framed with old rose sconces, space filled with moder n and simple furniture, and walls adorned wit h paintings by local artists. Seating spreads over two floors, with the main floor winning out ambience-wise ove r the subdued upstair s dining room. WINE LIST • The wine list is a treasure trove of interesting French bottles offered a t very reasonable prices (on e of the advantages , claims Bouteille , o f runnin g a restaurant of f the beate n path) .

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Besides a good arra y of wines fro m Bordeaux , Burgundy, and C6tes-du-Rhone, there's a n intriguing choic e of wines from les s known appellations . DON'T MISS • The soups, the ballotine de volaille, the sauteed sweetbreads, the halibut, the duck magret, the beef filet, and the desserts. WORDS TO THE WISE • Philippe de Lyon is a good hour's drive from downtow n Montreal . There are days, though, especially in summer, when a change of scenery is just the ticket . I wouldn't recommend this restaurant fo r its scintillating ambienc e or pastoral setting. However, pure, authentic, and well-balanced French food is getting harder to find these days. One of its great defenders is in Sorel, passionately giving it his all. If anything, that makes a trip here worth contemplating . PHILIPPE DE LYON 2450 Chemin St. Roch Location: Sorel-Tracy Telephone: (450) 746-8680 Open: Lunch 11:30 A.M.-2 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner 5:30 p.M.-9:30 P.M., Tuesday to Friday, and 6 p.M.-9:30 P.M., Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $4.95-$16.95; main courses, $16.95$27.95; desserts, $8-$15; four-course table d'hdte starters, $6.75-$11.75, and main courses, $21.95-$31.95; six-course tasting menu, $65

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ITAUAN

PICCOLA ITALI A SNAPSHOT • Take a hard look at the city's upscale Italian restaurants and you'll notic e their menus are , for the most part , interchangeable. With a menu that includes Caesar salad, veal Marsala, fettuccini Gigi, and piccata limone, Piccola Italia fits that mould. But you can't hol d a predictable men u agains t a restaurant that has poured s o much effort—and money—int o its business. Located in a boxy bank building h i the heart of Little Italy, Piccola Italia doesn't appear all that impressive from the outside. The interior, however, is another story . With it s brick walls, open wine racks, intricately tiled floor, and decanter-filled glas s cabinet, this is certainly one of the snazziest and most elegan t restaurants on the strip. Th e staf f i s enthusiastic an d efficient , an d th e food , though hardl y cutting edge, is prepared and presented wit h care. THE BIG PICTURE • Faced wit h Piccol a Italia' s predictabl e menu (eating this kind of food could be likened to listening to an "oldies" radio program), you might decide to jump in head first with a Caesar salad. This version is perfectly acceptable : the let tuce is crisp, the croutons ar e fresh, and the dressing is light an d slightly garlicky. Another winne r is the beef carpaccio, which is served in on e thick, lightly seared slice with Parmesan shavings. The accompa nying arugula salad dressed with balsamic vinaigrette is also exemplary. Gnocchi with rose' sauce is just that: small potato dumplings , dense enough to provide a bit of resistance, covered with a pleasant rose sauce—and not much else. Moving on to the main courses , there's chicken Cordo n Bleu stuffed wit h Parm a ha m an d Provolon e chees e serve d wit h a square of crumb-coated dauphinois potatoes . Although the generous plate of rigatoni alTamatriciana (a lusty tomato sauce with pancetta and onion) shoul d be a sensual experience, this skimpily sauced version falls flat .

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In contras t come s th e deliciou s grille d vea l chop . Not onl y does i t have fabulous flavour, but als o its texture is melting an d the cookin g i s bang on : th e mea t i s evenly caramelized o n th e outside, ever-so-slightly pink inside, and, best of all, juicy. Of the desserts, only the tiramisu is made in-house. Other options include a cheese plate (Gorgonzol a an d Parmesan) , and a very nice—store-bought—custard cake with berries. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Antonio Ranari. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Floor-to-ceiling windows over look a soon-to-be condo-ized church next door and a park across the street . The tables are well spaced an d the high-backe d arm chairs mak e fo r a comfortable evening. There' s a second-floor dining roo m fo r crowded night s o r private parties. One uniqu e feature is a large screen where you can see a live video feed of the chefs at work in the kitchen. WINE LIST • Wine service is one of the strengths o f this restaurant. The wine list includes a good number o f bottles unde r $50 and an impressive selection of "Super Tuscans" for the connoisseur . DON'T MISS • The Caesar salad, the beef carpaccio, and the veal chop. WORDS TO THE WISE • There's no denying that the trendy setting leads one to expect something different fro m what is served at th e trattoria s an d traditiona l Italian restaurant s dow n th e street. Although this may not be the case, you're sure to have an enjoyable evening at Piccola Italia. So instead of looking for innovation on the plate, focus on 'the friendly service and swish setting.

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PICCOLA ITALI A

6701 Boulevard St. Laurent (near St. Zotique) Location: Little Italy Telephone: (514) 270-6701 Open: 11:3 0 A.M.- 11 P.M., Monday to Friday, and 5 P.M.11 P.M., Saturday Wheelchair access : No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $4.50-$15.50; main courses, $9.95-$35; desserts, $7.50

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ITALIAN/SUSHI

PRIMADONNA SNAPSHOT • For over 1 0 years, Primadonna has been the place where fashionistas flock for sushi, pasta, and the bustling see-andbe-seen atmosphere. Although classified a s an Italian restaurant , this Boulevard St. Laurent hot spot stays in tune with recent food trends by featuring many North American-style plate presentations an d flavou r combinations . O n th e downside , nois e levels can be trying, and service, provided by some fine-looking young waiters, tends to lag. THE BIG PICTURE • When Primadonna opene d in 1993 , many passersby froze in their tracks: the decor was so modern, so original, s o glamorous. Th e brillian t ide a o f offerin g tw o separat e menus—Italian an d sushi—wa s als o revolutionar y a t a tim e when many local chefs were experimenting to varying degrees of success with Franco-Asian fusion cuisine . Not muc h ha s change d ove r th e years . The crow d is just as fashionable, if a bit older. The comely baby boomers still flock to this establishmen t t o sho w of f their tanned , toned, an d expen sively garbed bods.

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To avoid international conflict on the palate, you might want to orde r sush i before you r meal. The nigiri sushi—salmon , red snapper, halibut, and tuna—is fresh, and the ric e is subtly sea soned and ideally cooked. The few maki rolls—tuna and cucumber—are also quite nice. The impressive starters woul d be an asset to any of the city' s nouvelle cuisine establishments. Four plump scallops, served on a bed of guacamole, are ultrafresh, tender, and have a melting texture and grilled flavour that pairs perfectly with the creamy cubes of avocado . The wil d mushroo m mille-feuill e offer s a chunky, herb-enhanced mushroo m duxell e layered between thin slices of toasted pumpernickel . Another starter present s a goat's-cheese stuffed beefstea k tomato set atop a flying saucer-shaped cracker placed o n a bed o f choppe d arugula . With it s peppery greens, tangy cheese, crisp cracker, and melting tomato, this appetizer offers a beautiful array of bright flavours and opposing textures . Primadonna ha s a reputation fo r outstandin g pastas—fo r good reason. Available in all shapes and sizes, the pastas are homemade and appropriately matche d t o original sauces . Chitarra di pasta fresc a co n aragost a combine s guita r string-size d past a strands wit h a generous helping of lobster morsel s an d shiitake mushrooms i n a cream-based, ever-so-slightly-spice d tomat o sauce. The lobster is especially tender, and a few arugula leaves help to cut down on the inherent richnes s and heaviness of the dish. The fettuccini with lamb rag u is also outstanding. The lamb flavour is subtle and the pasta is luscious, every fat noodle coate d with the thick sauce. Desserts include an intense chocolate cak e with a dry texture that requires a larger helping of vanilla ice cream than your waistline can afford. Those up fo r something lusciou s shoul d op t for the creme brulee, which couldn't be more perfect. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Francois Laurin. DECOR, DRESS , AMBIENCE • Primadonna' s much-copie d decor features pale wood furniture, curved yellow walls, a sea-blue bar, an d gol d eggcup-shape d pillars . Lights ar e low, seating i s

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crowded, and whoever sets the volume of the background musi c obviously doesn't believe in intimate conversation. Of course, this is the Main, not som e sleepy hotel dinin g room , and the trendy atmosphere is Primadonna's principal claim to fame . WINE LIST • There ar e many fine wines on th e list , but don' t count on your waiter to recommend anything out of the ordinary for less than $60 . DON'T MISS • The sushi, the scallops, the pastas (especially the lamb ragu), and the creme brulee. WORDS TO THE WISE • Appealing to both tren d seeker s and gourmets isn't an easy row to hoe. But judging by the glamorous crowds that stil l congregat e here, i t woul d see m tha t Prima donna's formul a is still on the money . Be warned: Unless you're into thi s kind o f trendy scene , you may feel somewha t uncom fortable. PRIMADONNA 3479 Boulevard St. Laurent (near Sherbrooke) Location: The Main Telephone: (514) 282-6644 Web site: www.primadonnaonline.co m Open: Lunch, noon-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 p.M.-midnight, Monday to Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: Major card s Price range: Starters, $10-$19; main courses, S20-$33; desserts, $7.50

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ITALIAN/SUSHI

QUELLI DELLA NOTTE SNAPSHOT • Set in the heart of Little Italy, Quelli Delia Notte (known as Quelli to regulars) came onto the scene with a bang in 1998. Frequented by a young, slick crowd, this exciting restaurant offered fabulou s decor an d authenti c Italia n cuisine. Since then there have been changes up top. New management terminated the regional emphasis and che f Romano Nadir left t o open his own restaurant, Rugantino. So how has Quelli Delia Notte fared on the high-end Italian landscape? Better than expected. The nightclubesque atmospher e i s unaltered, the dizz y service seems to have straightened up, and, best of all, the food remains—on the whole —quite delicious. THE BIG PICTURE • In October 1999, 1 had one of those oh-lala meals at Quelli Delia Notte. The experience proved how sensational Italia n cuisin e ca n be when first-clas s ingredients mee t imported flavour enhancers such as pungent cheeses, peppery oils, aged vinegars, cured meats, and fine wines. I can still remember sinking my teeth int o truffle oil-drizzle d veal ravioli, microthin slices of salmo n wit h green peppercorns , an d grille d swordfis h steak served with a colourful cherry tomato salad. The food was as exciting as the ambience—one of those rare restaurant moment s wher e style complements substance . The young diners around me were all pearly teeth, slick hair, and skintight clothes . The decor was Italian-designer chic (Quelli was— and remains—the only restaurant I'd describe as "sexy"). After an especially tasty bite of veal medallions drape d with prosciutto, I marked three stars in my notebook and told every foodie I knew that these Italians were doing things right. What keep s Quelli Deli a Nott e goin g is its focused , simple menu. Sav e for the prices, which have increased considerably in

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the main-cours e section , th e Italia n offering s haven' t change d much over the years. The ravioli, the swordfish, and the veal medallions are all still there, along with a couple risottos and a short list of fresh pastas . Fresh Mozzarella is common on Italian menus. Here it's served with grille d re d peppers , correctl y prepared wit h th e skin s re moved. Despite the lovely play of soft textures, the flavours would be better with a higher-quality Mozzarella and a shot of first-class olive oil. Beef carpaccio is another commo n Italian dish and Quelli' s is one of the best out there. The superthin slices of seared rare meat melt in the mouth, as do the curls of buttery Parmigiano-Reggiano. And just when you thought it was all soft textures and rich flavours, along come arugul a and radicchi o t o ad d a peppery an d bitte r crunch. Superb . Though the Italian-restaurant-meets-sushi-bar trend is on the wane, sushi is still available at Quelli. The better-than-average selection wil l satisf y mos t aficionados . Though fa r fro m magnifi cent, the tuna nigir i sushi and Kamikaze rolls are certainly fresh . But there's no denying sushi seems like an afterthought here. A main-course linguin i wit h sun-drie d tomatoe s an d vea l is simple, hearty , and thoroughly satisfying . It' s a dish tha t prove s pasta i s better serve d with a few compatible choic e ingredient s than all those creamy, clean-out-the-refrigerator sauces . Veal, in al l its forms , i s not t o b e missed . Besides the afore mentioned ravioli and veal medallions, there is a veal chop. There's also a veal filet baked in phyllo and served with wilted greens and roasted potatoes . The mea t i s both tende r an d tasty , and th e phyllo, though a bit passe and not especially Italian, adds flair. Quelli Delia Notte has much improved in the dessert category. The semifredd o has th e requisit e lusciou s coo l textur e an d a sweet, crunch y topping. Bu t there's stil l wor k t o b e done . Th e tiramisu would benefit fro m stronge r coffe e flavouring. And th e chocolate bombe could use a few minutes more in the oven. Once pierced, it collapses into a pool of chocolate sauce. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Alessandro Spighetti.

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DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The low-lit dining room, dotted with chic burgundy chairs and well-spaced tables, is adorned with large swatches of red floor-to-ceilin g pleate d fabric. The attrac tive, vivacious crowd includes diner s of all ages and boasts more than its fair share of Italian stallions and their equally glamorous girlfriends. WINE LIST • The wine list now includes many bottles in the $50 range (bravo!). Try the Tuscan red, Poggio Alia Badiola, a wine bold enough to complement th e strong flavours in the food. DON'T MISS • The antipasto, the beef carpaccio, the linguini with veal and sun-drie d tomatoes , th e veal filet, and th e semifreddo . WORDS TO THE WISE • In spite of the improvements ove r the years, Quelli Delia Notte has lost some of its luster. Still, this is an exciting restaurant wher e the scen e is as enticing a s the food. If ever there's a restaurant that calls for your slickest Versace, this is it. QUELLI DELLA NOTTE 6834 Boulevard St. Laurent (near Dante) Location: Little Italy Telephone: (514) 271-3929 Open: Lunch, noon-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5 P.M.-11 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $9.75-$12.75; main courses, $14.75$39.75; desserts, $7-$10; table d'hdte menu, $28.75-$39.75; sushi a la carte, $3.50-$12

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$ SIS-

STEAK

QUEUE D E CHEVA L SNAPSHOT • Queue de Cheval is one of the most extraordinar y restaurants in Montreal. With its Pharaonic decor, its orgiastic attitude towards food, and its upmarket American tourists bursting with cash, it's a steak lover's Disneyland. Large-stomached, cellphone-toting businessme n rule . Thi s downtow n de n o f indulgence is a haven for carnivores who like their steaks marbled, aged, and grille d to glistenin g perfection. There's excellent seafoo d a s well. The wine list is appropriately steak-friendly and—no sur prise—pricey. THE BIG PICTURE« Queue de Cheval is a restaurant that aims to please. The staff works nonstop, so much so that you'll wonder whether management ha s set up a surveillance camer a in every corner. You're sure to notic e th e details : th e log o o f a runnin g horse emblazoned on the plates and glasses, the refrigerated cases at the door displaying sides of aged Kansas and Colorado beef, the fresh fish on ice , and th e tan k of obscenely large lobsters. Fancy lamps and elegantl y framed card s that list stea k seasonings embellish every table. Men are provided with chunky-handled steak knives; women's knives are thin an d sleek . No expense has been spared. "Expense" is a key word here. Be prepared for high numbers when cruising through the menu. According to the waiters, Queue de Cheval serves "nothing but th e best." Well rehearsed, they explain th e desirabl e characteristics of age d meat. Exhibi t one : a raw Delmonico steak sealed under a tight layer of cellophane. The waiter points to the impressive marbling of meat and fat and then smacks the stea k through the plastic. With the sam e purpose in mind (t o sho w the lac k of oozin g blood i n age d red meat) , he picks up a raw rib steak—exhibit two—by the bone and flings it down onto another plate. It's a harmless bit of show-and-tell, but hardly helpful i n guiding one through th e selection of a la carte steaks, which range from a 10-ounce petit filet mignon t o a 28-

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ounce porterhouse (describe d on the menu as the "Cadillac") . Ordering fis h i s equally trying. When enquirin g abou t cost , you'll be give n the marke t price . (Beware : Market price i s per pound, not per serving). Starters include two steak house favourites: Caesar salad an d shrimp cocktail . Th e Caesa r i s good—coated wit h a deliciou s cheesy dressing—but it' s mad e with an abundanc e o f the lim p outer leave s of th e romain e a s opposed t o th e mor e desirabl e crunchy hearts. The shrimp cocktai l consists o f three U8 shrimp (large specimens that weigh in at eight crustaceans per pound), a lettuce leaf, and some spicy cocktail sauce. The shrimp are meaty and wel l enhanced b y the sauce , but thi s old-fashione d starte r seems dated next to today's more innovative offerings . Far more appealin g i s the tuna tartare. Although pricey , this tower o f dice d fres h tuna , toppe d with mashe d avocad o an d salmon roe and surrounded by a ring of sliced cucumber, provides a pleasant tast e sensatio n a t the outse t o f a steak-and-potatoe s dinner. Of the steaks, the Delmonico is too fatty , a fact that becomes obvious when one looks down a t the large pile of fat left o n th e plate. Also disappointing i s the blackened T-bone . It's als o fatty , and lacks the charred exterior or spicy coating of blackened meats. With steak s like this, you coul d easil y write of f Queu e d e Cheval as just anothe r over-price d touris t trap . But you'd have missed something. Talk to your waiter, and describe the steak of your dreams (mine's charred on the outside, medium-rare on the inside, with a meaty/mineral flavour and as little fat as possible— the kind of steaks cowboys in Wyoming devour 'neath the starry skies). Chances are he'll consult the person in charge of aging and butchering the steaks. They'll find you something good, like a 20ounce ribey e (calle d "Lou' s Cut") , which lend s itsel f wel l to a smothering of garlic and steak spices. If you like it charred yet still pink and juicy inside, as k that it be grilled Pittsburgh-style. You won't be disappointed . If it's fish you're after , tr y th e snapper . The two grilled filets are delicate and melting, and the taste—a gentle mix of sweetness and saltwater—is a triumph.

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Side dishes include superb garlic mashed potatoes, terrific jumbo onion rings, and potent saut£ed spinach with garlic. The most outrageous side order is the "Garbage Baker": a 5-inch stuffed bake d potato covere d with melte d Chedda r an d bacon bits. Despite its unglamorous name, this gigantic spu d i s a winner an d certainl y could be a meal in itself. If you're not embarrasse d to order dessert after all this, there's a "Death by Chocolate" cake, which the waiters describe as "layers of fudge , cake , fudge, cake , fudge, cake. " There's als o a white chocolate cheesecake that's white, creamy, and not much else. IN THE KITCHEN • Chefs Stephane Dumas and Muspha Ogedir. DECOR, DRESS , AMBIENCE • Framed i n dar k wood , wit h chandeliers, lush paintings , and studded leathe r banquettes, th e setting is as macho a s the clientele . Th e space is cavernous. Two large floors ar e divided by a curved staircase; young waiters carrying heavy trays bound up and down its length. The main floo r is dominated b y an open kitchen, the focal point bein g an enormous grill topped by a copper exhaust hood. As far as the eye can see, waiters bustle, decanting wine, serving huge steaks, and dishing up freshly tossed salads. WINE LIST • The wine list i s pricey. Not onl y are many bottles offered a t triple their retail cost, but als o there are few selections for les s than $50. Especially frustrating is the small choice of half bottles priced between S39 and $85, and the few mediocre selec tions by the glass at close to $10 each. DON'T MISS«The garlic mashed potatoes, the "Garbage Baker," the jumbo onion rings, the red snapper, and the 20-ounce ribeye ("Lou's Cut," smothered in garlic and steak spices, grilled Pittsburghstyle). WORDS TO THE WISE • At Queue d e Cheval, the ingredient s are stellar and the cooking style is simple. But if you're not mind ful o f the detail s (what to order and how it should b e prepared)

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you can go terribly wrong her e and pa y dearly fo r it. The goo d news is that when the steal: and fish are good, they're really good. And when it's that good, the he-man-size price tag hurts a bit less. QUEUE DE CHEVAL 1221 Boulevard Rene Levesque (near Drummond ) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 390-0090 Web site: www.queuedecheval.com Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.- 10:30 P.M., Sunday t o Wednesday, and 5:3 0 P.M.11:30 P.M., Thursday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $8-$19; main courses, $28-$41 (market-priced items as well); desserts, $11-$13

SSJi

THAI

RED THA I SNAPSHOT • Red Thai is located on the busiest stretch of Boulevard St. Laurent between Milton and Prince Arthur. No offense to the might y Main , but a flashy ethnic restaurant i n thi s par t of town seems as authentic as an Irish pub in Avignon. And with so many nouveau-Asian restaurant s offerin g mor e styl e than sub stance, Red Thai could easily be dismissed a s another pale imitation o f the real thing. Wrong. Thai food i n Montreal doesn't get much better than this. THE BIG PICTURE • When well executed, Thai food offers a balanced mix of hot, sour, salty, and sweet—often with hot comin g to th e fore . Grillin g and stir-fryin g ar e the cookin g methods o f choice. Herbs such as lemon grass, kaffir lime leaves, and galangal (a perfumy member of the ginger family) are mixed with the pun-

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gent sournes s of fresh lime and th e pleasin g sweetness of palm sugar. Peanuts and coconut add richness. With s o many heady aromatics involved, th e challeng e i s to synchronize the flavours. In the right hands, such minglings can be awfully seductive. Fortunately, the talented hands in Red Thai's kitchen belong to chef Tavisak Karunanonpakijja, a master of this complex interplay. Soup is an integral part of any Asian meal. Tom yam kha gai, chicken soup with coconut milk, lime juice, Thai basil, and galangal, is ever-so-slightly rich and thick, with a pronounced coconu t flavour offset by the sourness of lime. Though the strips of chicken breast add a pleasant chewiness, the star of this bowl is the intense broth. Tom yam kun g is equally delectable. Th e broth i s clear and redolent o f kaffi r lim e leaves and lemo n grass . Again the mea t (shrimp) and the shiitake mushrooms provide texture, but so compelling is the spic y herbal broth that you'l l hardl y notice they're there. Given that a Thai meal is meant to be shared, don't hesitate to order wit h abandon . Small , crisp, an d light , th e Tha i imperia l rolls are loaded with bits of pork and shrimp. Green papaya salad is traditionall y a very spicy dish. Thi s version i s tame, a goo d choice for the timid of palate. Sateh (satay) is a classic in Thai cuisine. Red Thai diverges from tradition b y serving ostrich sateh . The thre e skewer s of meat , spiced up and sprinkled with sesame seeds, arrive hot off the grill. The accompanying peanut sauce is velvety and rich, but the meat is chewy. Sateh aficionados might prefe r the chicken , pork, beef, or shrimp. Main course s include sautee d por k wit h peanu t sauc e and crispy spinach. The dish is good, yet hardly as jaw-droppingly delicious as other main-cours e selections, such as duck breast with kumquat sauce and chicken in red curry. Although th e duc k doesn' t loo k to o impressiv e sitting o n a bed of glistening vegetables, one bite and you'll be in duck heaven. The skin, glazed with syrupy citrus, is crisp, and the flesh, melting. Every bite is rich and sweet , with the duck juices (okay, fat) and the fruit sauce coming together beautifully on the palate.

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Every so often you come across a dish that makes you reevaluate your favourites . Re d Thai's wicke d red curr y chicken (ga i kang pet dang) is one such dish. The play between sweet and sour will win you over—as will the subtle increase in intensity. Instead of burnin g wit h heat , your tast e buds will be invigorated wit h spice, enlivened with basil, and soothe d wit h coconut mil k an d bamboo shoots . Unlike inferior red curries , thi s sauce also has body, coating the meat, vegetables, and sticky rice like fresh cream on berries. And all this for a mere $14.95. To best judge the kitchen, opt for that signature Thai dish, pad Thai. You'll be glad you did. The hot plate of stir-fried noodles includes pudgy shrimp, chicken strips, scrambled egg, browned bits of tofu , an d choppe d peanuts— a mouth-watering moun d o f moist texture and pleasant sweetness. To conclude , pas s o n th e store-bough t Frenc h pastrie s i n favour of homemade coconut ice cream. The flowery/gingery Thai tea is also satisfying. Service is another stron g poin t o f the Re d Thai experience. The charming waiters are happy to make suggestions. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Tavisak Karunanonpakijja. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • With mounte d elephan t heads, statues of Thai dancers, potted palms, arched ceilings, and leopardprint chairs and banquettes, the decor would best be described as Diana Vreeland meets the King of Siam. WINE LIST • The wine list i s well priced an d interesting , an d there's an impressiv e selection o f Martinis and exoti c cocktails. DON'T MISS • The soups, the Thai imperial rolls, the duck breast with kumquat sauce, the chicken in red curry, and the pad Thai. WORDS T O THE WISE • Th e room' s glamou r isn' t alway s matched by the clientele. As many diners—especially tourists— tend to take ethnic restaurants for granted, dress and table manners ca n fall into the overl y casual category. That's a shame, for this is a restaurant that merits serious consideration .

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RED THAI 3550 Boulevard St. Laurent (near Prince Arthur) Location: The Main Telephone: (514) 289-0998 Open: Lunch, 11 A.M.-3 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 5 P.M.midnight, daily Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended; essential on weekends Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $4.95-$9.95; main courses, $10.95-$28.95; desserts, $4.95-$7.95; tasting menus for two, $85 and $69; three-course table d'hote lunch menu, $8.95-$16.95; threecourse table d'hote dinner menu, $23-$36

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$SS

FRENCH

RESTAURANT BONAPARTE SNAPSHOT • With its pared-down classi c French cuisine, impeccable service , and romanti c auberg e setting, this Ol d Montrea l restaurant, situated o n a cobblestone sid e street next to the Centaur Theatre, has become a popular destination fo r theatre-goers and tourists alike. The six-course tasting menu offers great value. The wine list is well chosen and affordable . THE BIG PICTURE« Plenty has happened a t Restaurant Bonaparte in the past decade . It added a third dining room si x years ago when i t expande d int o the spac e formerly occupied b y the pastry shop nex t door. Three years later, management mad e th e shrewd move of renovating the rooms upstairs and opening on e of the Old City's most upscale small hotels, the Auberge Bonaparte. The restauran t i s still wildl y popula r wit h th e pre-theatr e crowd—who come to catch an early dinner before performance s

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at the Centaur, Notre-Dame Basilica, or Place des Arts—and couples and tourists ou t fo r an evening in this romantic Old Montreal setting. Bonaparte's menu offer s a wide choic e o f bourgeois French fare, either k la carte, as a three-course table d'h6te, or a six-course tasting menu that includes a lobster bisque, mushroom ravioli, a goat's cheese salad, a seafood plate, a choice of duck or veal, and dessert. The lobste r bisque , flavoure d wit h ginger , arrive s steaming. Though its scent is heavenly, the lobster taste is understated an d benefits from a dash of salt. The thin-skinned mushroom raviol i are fille d wit h a flavourful duxell e an d enhance d wit h a cream sauce perfume d wit h sage . The goat' s chees e i n th e sala d i s wrapped i n phyll o an d se t atop mesclu n green s and tomatoes . The seafood tasting plate offer s a small salmon filet, two tender shrimp, an d sliced , seared scallop s paired with a vanilla cream sauce. The salmon, served with a dribble of citrus butter, is perfectly grilled: crusty on the outside, translucent on the inside. The next course is the highlight of the menu de degustation. The magret de canard (duck breast) flavoure d with maple syrup and berries is superb: the meat is pink, the consistency is melting, and th e fa t i s minimal. The medallion s o f veal filet are equally tender, an d th e accompanyin g more l sauc e provides a serious wild mushroom kick without overshadowing the meat. Desserts include small squares of lemon cheesecak e and tw o layered chocolat e mouss e cakes , one enhance d wit h coffee , th e other with praline. A creme brulee displays the ideal combination of creaminess and crunchiness. Take note: Hot souffles, a rare treat on today's restaurant menus, are available at Bonaparte if ordered 30 minutes in advance. Although th e tastin g men u i s an all-ou t winner , som e £ la carte selections turn up disappointments. Th e potage St. Germain, France's version of pea soup , is as blah a s a bowl of oatmeal . A phyllo purse fille d wit h sauteed snails and oyste r mushrooms is also pretty dreary. If all this faintly flavoured food has you doubting your tast e buds, opt fo r the gam e terrine, which is chunky, garlicky, and well seasoned.

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Some mai n course s also fai l t o measur e up. The Dove r sole meuniere arrives filleted atop a mound o f rice pilaf an d vegetables. It's good, if a bit dull , lacking the delicacy , the butter y flavour, and the glamour of many Dover soles boned a t the table in the classic French restaurant tradition. The wild boar, by contrast, has a terrific flavour and is well matched with a hearty red-wine bordelaise sauce. For polis h an d professionalism , Bonapart e gets top marks . Plates arrive like clockwork, with rarely more than a five-minute wait between courses. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Gerard Fort. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The elegant L'Imperatrice room, with it s tall benjamina trees , ornate ceilings , working fireplace , and flickerin g table lamps , makes fo r a relaxe d an d romanti c setting. Among the most coveted spots are the tables in the lowlit alcove s in th e fron t o f th e restaurant , overlookin g Ru e St. Francois Xavier. WINE LIST • The wine list is made up of predominantly French bottles, all more than reasonabl y priced, with many half bottle s and a few wines available by the glass (for as little as $5). DON'T MISS • The six-course tasting menu, the terrine, the wild boar, and the desserts. WORDS TO THE WISE • This is a smooth operation , idea l for couples, family groups, and the theatre- and concert-going crowd, which has obviously already found a home here. The faults of the kitchen are offset by the pleasures of dining at a leisurely pace and in pleasantl y elegan t surroundings, a s well as by the wai t staff , who are neither too formal nor too solicitous.

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RESTAURANT BONAPART E

443 Rue St. Frar^ois Xavier (near Notre Dame) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514) 844-4368 Web site: www.bonaparte.ca Open: Lunch, noon-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 p.M.-10:30 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters (lunch), $4.50-$10.50, starters (dinner), $4.50-$12.50 (caviar $48-$80); main courses (lunch), $14.50$22, main courses (dinner), $19.50-$30.50; desserts, $3.50$7.50; six-course tasting menu, $57.

«**

FRENCH (BYOW )

RESTAURANT CHRISTOPHE SNAPSHOT • Christophe Geffrey ma y have started life as chef to Fran9ois Mitterand, but he made his name in Montreal at his first eponymous restaurant i n Outremont, followed by a long stint at the tony Club St . Denis. His name came up in foodi e conversations for years, but alas , his lovely cuisine was off limits to all but a handful of affluent Montrealers . Fortunately, Geffrey is back in business once again, preparing his signature cuisine du march£. His new restaurant is simple, young in spirit, and completely devoid of the pretensions ofte n associate d with French restaurants. If it weren't for the nouvelle cuisine menu, you would think you were in another o f the neighbourhood' s many bistros. Non e of the loca l bistros, however , are serving zucchin i blossom s wit h truffles, an d shrim p raviol i with anchovy caviar. Good news for those with wine cellars: the restaurant is now BYOW.

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THE BIG PICTURE«If you're a n experienced diner, you know immediately i f you're i n the hands o f an amateur o r a pro. Bite into a scallo p o r a sliver of foi e gras , and you'l l probabl y fin d yourself grading the morsel. You'll give the scallop an eight on ten, and th e foi e gras , a five. Though les s frequent, ten-on-ten mo ments will occur when you conclude the scallop o r foie gras just couldn't be better. And if you lay your critical faculties aside once in a while, you'll notice quite a bit of "perfect" fare out there—especially in a city like Montreal, where there ar e so many worldclass chefs. Culinary perfectio n i s a concep t tha t ma y spring t o min d when tasting Christophe Geffrey' s cuisine . There's nothing trendy or fusion-esqu e abou t thi s food . It' s jus t beautifull y prepared French marke t cuisine , a style rar e on today' s restauran t land scape. When mastered, as it is here, it shows why tuiles, herb bouquets, garnishes , an d phyll o frou-frou s ar e jus t smok e an d mirrors. Rest assured, there ar e no distraction s o n th e plat e a t Restaurant Christophe . Geffrey offer s a complimentary starter—soup , salad, or vegetable dish—which is added t o the table d'h6te menu. A trio of tomato supremes (red, yellow, and orange ) set atop quenelles of St. Maure goat's cheese accented by a chiffonade o f arugula starts the meal off on a high note. The key ingredients hold their own in the flavou r department , ye t share th e sam e seductiv e meltin g mouth feel . A cold soup of peas swirled with crea m is spring revisited, especially with th e adde d exoti c flavour of fres h marjo ram. Th e onl y disappointment i s a salad wit h re d berry vinai grette, for the pieces are too large to munch on with ease. Appetizers includ e zucchin i blossoms , ho t foi e gras , and a saute of chanterelles. Stuffe d wit h a delicate scallop mousse and drizzled with truffle butter, the zucchini flowers are a delight. Foie gras is given the Quebecoi s treatment . Serve d on a baked apple, the crisp liver is sweetened with caramelized blueberry sauce. All that's missing is a shot o f maple syrup. The sauteed chanterelle s are doused in port sauc e and piled into in a miniature casserole . Under the lid are three poached quail's eggs resting on the nest of baby chanterelles .

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Chef Geffre y als o excel s i n mea t an d fis h preparations . Smoked salmon rolls filled with cream cheese studded with bits of red pepper are rich, yet not i n the least heavy. Pudgy Malpeque oysters are kept simple. The only enhancement to these briny babies is a splash of citrus and a smidgen of anchovy caviar. Superb. Main course s include larg e shrimp raviol i topped wit h bru noised peppers and more of that wonderful anchovy caviar. With al dente pasta wrappers and a distinctly flavoured shrim p fillin g (shrimp fillings often have that generic "seafood" taste), this dish is sure to knock the knickers off everyone at the table. Trout file t serve d with a watercress crea m sauce, whippe d squash, and spinach will seem the perfect fish dish until you taste the co d with caberne t sauvignon sauce. Cod is a meaty fish that when prepare d correctly—a s it i s here—has cream y flesh tha t breaks into large sections as opposed to flakes. But cod can also be bland. Geffrey's solution ? Sear it skin-side-down, an d pair it with a light red-wine sauce and a rnound of whipped white beans enhanced with truffles. Wow. Vegetables are prominently feature d on ever y plate (on e can easily imagine a vegetarian menu in these hands). A magnificent veal chop is paired with a mound o f baby root vegetables, which includes candy cane beets, baby carrots, turnips, and parsley root enhanced with fresh fig s and spiced crab apples. Desserts include a simple chocolate tourte served with home made mint sorbet, and a subtle chocolate cream accompanied by a ramekin of fresh grapefrui t an d strawberries. Those not u p for sweets can opt for the cheese course, which often includes Quebec cheeses such as Riopelle, Kenogami, and Ble u Be'ne'dictin. Service is well paced, friendly, and professional. At the en d of the meal, chef Geffrey ofte n stops by the tables to say hello. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Christophe Geffrey . DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The space includes a main-floor dining room with a mere 30 seats, and a yellow-and-peach room upstairs fo r anothe r 20 . The ambienc e i s that o f your typica l neighbourhood bistro .

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WINE LIST • Bring your own wine. DON'T MISS • The zucchini blossoms , th e oysters , th e shrim p ravioli wit h anchov y caviar, the co d with Caberne t Sauvigno n sauce (the Assiette Christophe), and the desserts. WORDS TO THE WISE • Try to ge t a table i n th e main-floo r dining room, as the upstairs room is a bit drab and devoid of ambience. However, for large groups, the upstairs room offers plent y of breathing space. As this is now a BYOW restaurant with a frequently changing menu, consider callin g in advance so you can choose an appropriate wine. RESTAURANT CHRISTOPH E 1187 Van Home Ave. (near Bloomfield) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 270-0850 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.- 10 P.M., Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended; essential on weekends Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $7.95-$16; main courses, $22.75-$33.75; desserts, $6

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RESTAURANT LE MCHAFF Y SNAPSHOT • Looking for a restaurant in the Eastern Townships to enjoy a romantic dinner o r an apres-ski gourmet meal? Cowansville's McHaffy's migh t just be the place. This converted-house restaurant ru n b y chef and owner Pierre Johnston offer s sophis ticated Quebec cuisine in a quaint country setting. Service is excellent. THE BIG PICTURE • Cowansville does not share Knowlton's social scene or Bromont's fast-emerging French Canadian country cachet. It's more of a quiet: town, with small businesses and clapboard houses set right on the main street, Rue Principale. But what it does have is one the best chef-owned restaurants in L'Estrie (the Eastern Townships): Restaurant Le McHaffy, known affectionatel y to locals as McHaffy's . Chef an d owne r Pierr e Johnston, who i s a highly regarded caterer as well, offers a menu filled with local ingredients prepared in the modern Quebe c style. All the dishes—fro m classi c seared squab with lentils to edgy tuna sashimi with tuna tartare—sound enticing. Another of McHaffy's lures is its format and pricing. The fivecourse menu (amuse-bouche, starter, soup or salad, main course, dessert and coffee) make s for a generous, well-paced meal for less than $45 per person—a steal at a time when main-course prices at many of Montreal's better restaurants exceed the $30 mark. What a pleasure it is to sit in McHaffy's countr y setting and be served a cosmopolitan-style starter , lik e th e shrim p Martini . Johnston offer s si x tiger shrim p perched o n the thi n edg e of a Martini glass filled with gasspacho and topped with saffron cream . The shrimp have a smoky grilled flavour and meaty texture tha t contrasts well with the refreshing cold soup .

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Also scoring high flavour-wise is the warm paille goat's cheese layered with oven-roasted tomatoes, sauteed spinach, and red peppers. These fanned-out concoctions are real taste tinglers, especially when rolled around in the accompanying smoked jalapeno jus and roasted garlic. Those up for something a little less intense at the outset of the meal should opt for the seared squab. All too rare on restaurant menus, this luxurious bird is served here in two pieces—a plump breast and leg—with a mound of lentils studded with mushrooms, a baked fig, leek confit, and summer truffles . Unlike s o many insipid farm-raise d birds, thi s on e i s especially notable for its rich, gamy flavour. The next course offer s a choice o f leek soup or baby organic greens. Th e soup i s perfect: neither to o thic k nor to o thin, and redolent of leeks. The salad is fine, though the addition of chewy, unreconstituted sun-drie d tomatoes is an off note. Main courses rise to the level of the starters. The pan-seared Angus filet mignon is tender and delicious, as are the potato-andparsnip pur£ e an d sautee d rapini . The rac k o f lamb i s anothe r winner: the chops are rose and the lamb flavour is pleasantly subtle. Also much appreciate d ar e the smashe d white lingo t beans and the melting braised endive. The cheese selection i s small, and none of the ones offered ar e local. As for desserts, your best bet is one of the Valrhona chocolate mousse cakes. Service is superb: as professional as that of a fourstar restaurant and as friendly as that of a corner bistro. IN THE KITCHEN« Chef and owner Pierre Johnston. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The restauran t i s divided int o several small, cozy rooms decorated with flowered wallpaper, potpourri, and country furniture. Given the location, the atmosphere is subdued an d idea l fo r a n intimat e tete-a-tete . If you're int o hand-holding with your significant other, this is the place to do it. WINE LIST • The wine list, which could serve as an example to many a restaurateur, ranges from th e lovely white Spanish house wine offered by the glass to serious Bordeaux and Burgundies.

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DON'T MISS • The shrimp Martini, the goat's cheese starter, the filet mignon, the squab, and the rack of lamb. WORDS TO THE WISE • MeHaffy's combinatio n o f a rustic setting and a sophisticated, modern men u is intriguing. It's a wonderful spo t fo r a gourmet mea l ami d th e resplenden t autum n colours, or for a romantic dinne r during the sk i season. Bear in mind that this restaurant is about an hour's drive from Montreal. RESTAURANT LE McHAFFY 351 Rue Principale Location: Cowansville Telephone: (450) 266-7700 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.-9 P.M., Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards (and Interac) Price range: Starters, $10.50-$15; main courses, $21.50-$25; desserts, $7.25-$8.25; five-course prix fixe menu, $38-$42

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RESTAURANT L E ST. CHRISTOPHE SNAPSHOT • The Boulevard Ste. Rose in Vieux Ste. Rose, Laval, is quickly becoming an exciting dining destination thanks to restaurants like Le St. Christophe. This elegant establishment is the off spring o f Jos y an d Gerar d Jalby , former partner s o f Ru e Sherbrooke's Les Champs Elysees. You'll be encouraged by the sight of their gracious Edwardian house (built in 1912), lovingly decorated with re d geranium-fille d windo w boxes. The menu shun s th e common a la carte formula in favor of the European all-inclusive

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menu. Prices are fair considering the high-quality ingredients , including foie gras, lobster, duck, lamb, and quail . THE BIG PICTURE • Upon entering Le St. Christophe, you'll be warmly greeted by a young, handsome, and very French maitre d', Christophe Jalby, son of owners Josy and Gerard Jalby and the inspiration for the restaurant's name. He'll then offer you a choice of tables, either in the small dining room, in one of two semi-private salons, or, in summer, on the terrace. The meal begins with an elegant amuse-bouche such as a twobite chicken flan topped with parsley sauce. Sound dreary? Not in the least . Th e ova l flan ha s a velvety texture an d flavour—rea l flavour—enlivened by an intense parsley sauce. Appetizers continue to impress. A rabbit an d hazelnut terrine served e n crout e i s chunky, garlicky, and choc k ful l o f crunch y hazelnuts. A shrimp souffle ' als o scores high. With the moist an d dense textur e o f a steame d puddin g (a s opposed t o th e usua l fluffy affair), thi s souffle ' als o boasts a spot-on shrim p taste well enhanced with the addition o f Nantua sauce. The main courses are uniformly superb. When the waiter sets down a chic-but-lethal Laguiol e knife (th e ultimate French objet de table) , you'll know it' s gam e on ! Slic e through pink-tinged rounds o f duck breast an d glistenin g confit serve d with a tangy orange sauce, or, better yet, quail. Le St. Christophe's quai l is full flavoured and succulent, and the skin is flavoured with cumin and a spicy reduced-stock sauce. This kitchen has a light touch when need be, and proof is the seafood blanquette. Imagin e this: poached shrimp , lobster, mussels, scallops, and bits of salmon served in a buttery seafood broth atop ravioli stuffed with a delicate sole mousse. Sound good? It is, as this generous serving of bite-size, pink- an d cream-coloure d seafood looks—and tastes—as light and refreshing a s sorbet. The cheese course—like everything else—is take n seriously here. Few will be able to resist this adde d indulgence when confronted with a trolley that contains over 1 6 varieties of local and French cheeses.

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Desserts maintain th e hig h leve l of the meal . A strawberry mousse cake with swirls of jelly roll around the perimeter i s very good, if a bit sweet . The tarte Tatin for two (whic h could easily serve four) , i s all buttery apple s an d stick y caramel, irresistibl e when paired with a side order of homemade vanilla ice cream. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Stephane Charpentier. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The room s ar e decorate d i n a pared-down, modern-meets-traditiona l style . Th e chandelier s may be ornate antique s and the curtain s lace, but th e walls are painted in appetizing ice-cream tones of raspberry, pistachio, and French vanilla. WINE LIST • The selection of wines is intriguing; though not as elaborate as the lists one can find in several upscale restaurants, bottles her e appea r t o hav e undergon e muc h scrutin y befor e making th e cut . Choosin g win e a t L e St. Christophe is a no brainer: not only does the waiter know the list back to front, bu t the menu includes a "Coup de Coeur" for those up for something new yet reliable. DON'T MISS • The shrim p souffle , th e duc k magret, the spic y quail, th e seafoo d blanquette, the chees e course, and th e tart e Tatin. WORDS TO THE WISE • Don't expect decorative tuiles or wild plate presentations at Le St. Christophe. What this cuisine has is a strong base, with an evident tie to tradition an d enough creative innovation to make its own mark. And that, coupled with superb service, will always provide universal satisfaction.

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RESTAURANT LE ST. CHRISTOPH E 94 Boulevard Ste. Rose Location: Vieux Ste. Rose, Laval Telephone: (450) 622-7963 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-3 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M. - 10 P.M., Tuesday to Friday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Three-course menu, S25-$37

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RESTAURANT YOY O SNAPSHOT • Decor and location ar e usually the strong points of bring-your-own-wine restaurants. Food comes a distant third. Not so at Yoyo. Despite the restaurant's name, the cuisine is anything but child's play. Everything served here is of the utmost freshness , plate presentations ar e thoughtful, and ever y menu item—sav e for the baguette and the ice cream—is made from scratch. Service, equally smooth i n both Frenc h and English, is beyond reproach . THE BIG PICTURE • It's a busy nigh t a t Restaurant Yoyo, an d diners are filing in. A sexy, fortysomething brunette wit h a n up swept hairdo arrive s at the door . In one smooth mov e she takes her seat , glances around th e room, and whips her bottle o f wine from it s brown pape r bag. Her dat e mus t b e runnin g late , an d judging by the qualit y of her wine ( a fabulous and pricey C6teRotie), it's probably a rendezvous she's taking seriously. Her gentleman frien d enters minutes later. They look longingly into each other's eyes, offer each other tastes of this and that, drain that exquisite bottle, and take off before dessert . Across the room, a young couple linger s over their meal, rel ishing their bottle of inexpensive white wine as though it were the finest Chablis . A fashionable blond e stride s throug h th e roo m

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distributing snoot y glances . She takes her sea t an d unveil s her wine selections: a run-of-the-mill Brouill y and a cheap Chianti . With al l that attitude , on e woul d assum e she' d b e drinkin g Chateau Lafite. There's somethin g refreshin g abou t bring-your-own-win e restaurants. It neutralize s the corrosiv e wine env y produced b y standard wine lists. Everyone here is on equal footing. The brunette, the blonde, and the kids with the cheap wine are served in the same friendly manner. That probably also has a lot to do with Guy Bergamelli, Yoyo's dining-room manager and maitre d'h6tel extraordinaire, who circulates amon g the table s of regulars and newcomers takin g orders an d makin g men u suggestion s while tossing off wry and witty comments . From a choic e of nine a la carte appetizers, the mushroo m ravioli come s highl y recommended . Serve d with a sun-drie d tomato and shallot coulis, this pasta package is made from a single tomato-and-spinach pasta sheet wrapped around a duxelles comprising both Parisian and wild mushrooms. When available, don't miss the pan-seared foie gras, which is paired with sauteed pears and a handful of baby greens dressed with a lively vinaigrette. Another special , house-smoked duc k breast, has a divine smoky flavour and meaty texture. Regarding the main courses , meat seem s the way to go . The duck magret , paired with raspberr y sauce, is tender, pink , an d crisp-skinned. A rack of lamb served with a rosemary sauce is also superb. The accompaniments—sauteed potatoes , spinach , an d a stack of ratatouille vegetables sprinkled with thyme, including yellow squash, eggplant, zucchini, and tomato—provide the perfect sidekick. Fish tends t o be the weaknes s of this kitchen, for it's some times overcooked. On top of that, seasonings can be too timid. A marlin stea k serve d with a n orang e sauc e ca n be dreary , an d salmon tournedos a la Florentine (with spinach) are often in need of salt. Fortunately, the fish dishes also include a fine selection of vegetables. Things brighten up considerably with desserts. Cheese lovers will be elated by the choice of close to a dozen local and imported

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varieties, which are available in single portions or in threes, everything served with grapes and toasted walnut bread. A plain cheesecake paired with a dense raspberry coulis is thick and creamy, yet somehow not in the least bit heavy. Filled with chocolate-chip ice cream and smothered in intense chocolate sauce, the profiteroles are chewy and gooey in a grownup sor t o f way. The crem e bruMe here puts s o many other s t o shame. It's creamy, cold, and perfectly caramelized. Best of all, it costs $5.95, about half what you'll pay in most upscale restaurants. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Marcel Pelletier. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Located in a residential area in the heart of the Plateau Mont Royal, Yoyo's candlelit dining room is small and intimate—part Paris bistro, part cozy Plateau living room. With its sponge-painted ochre walls, low ceilings, and darkwood trim, the space could easily double as the apartment of any local resident , whether a ballet dancer , a poli-sci professor, or a button designer. WINE LIST • Bring your own wine. DON'T MISS • The mushroom ravioli, the duck magret, the rack of lamb, the cheese course, and the desserts. WORDS TO THE WISE • There are a few deals on this menu, but generally, prices ar e o n a par wit h mos t fine-dinin g establish ments—and so they should be. Although a meal at Yoyo has its ups and down s (sorry , I couldn't resist), this i s a wonderful res taurant that wears its heart on its sleeve. What you see is what you get—the absence of pretense.

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RESTAURANT YOYO

4720 Rue Marquette (near Gilford) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 524-4187 Web site: www.restoyoyo.montrealplus.ca Open: 5:30 P.M.-10 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards (and Interac) Price range: Starters, $4.50-$8.50; main courses, $17.95-$26.95; desserts, $5.50-$6.75

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STEAK/SEAFOOD

RIB N REE F SNAPSHOT • Behind its dreary, modern fa9ade , Ri b 'n Ree f is one elegan t stea k house. Diner s ca n expec t juicy char-grille d USDA Prime steaks, Caesar salads , and fluff y bake d potatoes at this beloved Montreal landmark. And from the reef, there's excellent fresh fish and seafood. Despite the formal decor and service, the ambience is relaxed and family-friendly . THE BIG PICTURE • Rib 'n Reef celebrated its fortieth anniversary in 2003. This Boulevard Decarie favourite, under the man agement o f Peter Katsouda s and hi s wife, Chris-An n Nakis , for the past seven years, was completely renovated in August 1999. The menu still offers standard steak house fare with a marked emphasis on seafood , perhaps more s o than a t simila r establishments. One coul d easil y forgo starters , a s main-course portions ar e he-man-sized (and, in keeping with the Montreal steak house tradition, garlicky dill pickles and fresh coleslaw are offered grati s at the outse t of the meal) . Of th e one s sampled , the cra b cakes, served with a delicious grainy-mustard cream sauce, are a definite must. The clam chowder is thick and rich but stingy on the clams and too subtle in flavour to compensate for all the calories.

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The best of the starters is that steak house classic, Caesar salad. Prepared with passio n and flair by the waiter tableside, thi s is a Caesar to put all those pre-plated versions to shame. The romaine is freshly cut, the crouton s ar e the rea l deal, the cream y vinaigrette has the right tang and garlic punch, and the bacon bits and grated Parmesan add a n edge of decadence—the ideal overture for th e serious feeding frenzy to come. The stea k at Ri b 'n Ree f i s advertised a s USDA Prim e Midwestern beef, aged 21 to 30 days and hand cut daily. It lives up to its billing. An 18-ounce half-inch-thick ribeye offers a charred exterior, a juicy pink interior, and the intense mineral/meat flavour sought after by steak aficionados. It's juicy and full of flavour, bu t it's neither too fatty nor too sinewy—just delicious. A New Yorkcut sirloin, almost an inch thick, is also first-rate, though certainly less flavourful than bone-in, thinner cuts, like the ribeye. Rack of lamb is another good choice, for the six New Zealand chops ar e individually grilled fo r maximu m flavour . Side-dis h potato offerings include fat French fries and delicious baked potatoes—heaven when slathered with sour cream and topped wit h bacon bits and chives. From th e reef , you'll fin d th e standar d favourites—lobster , scampi, and shrimp—along with fresh fish, such as red snapper. The snapper is served in a portion as generous as the meats, and it's perfectly pan-seared, the succulent flesh falling off the skin in moist and tender chunks. If you're up for dessert at the end of such a copious meal, reconsider. Desserts are heavy, American-style concoctions—one of the few letdowns at Rib 'n Reef. The wait staff, however, is superb: from the maitre d' and coatcheck gir l to th e waiter s and busboys , everyone is friendly an d thoroughly professional. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Odile Messier. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Following the traditiona l stea k house style, the decor has a men's clu b feel, with wine-coloured panelled walls , deep banquettes, an d armchair s upholstere d i n dark stripe d fabric . Smal l shade d lamp s a t ever y table, wal l

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sconces, and recessed spotlights provide the kind of low lighting that everyone over 30 appreciates. Waiters wear tuxedos; busboys sport whit e jackets and bo w ties. Th e casuall y attired, upscal e crowd comprises middle-aged couples and families. The atmosphere is subdued and civilized. WINE LIST • The wine list features many impressive, if costly, selections. Fo r those less willing to splurge , there ar e a few good bottles, including a $48 Beringer Merlot that goes well with th e meaty menu selections. DON'T MISS • The crab calces, the Caesar salad, the ribeye steak, the lamb chops, and the fresh fish. WORDS TO THE WISE • It's a pleasure to dine at Rib 'n Reef. In spite o f the forma l setting, there ar e no hassle s and n o preten sions, just good steak house fare and the kind of professional service you'd expect from an establishment with such a track record. If you're an out-of-towner, you may not know that the Boulevard Decarie location, while quite a distance fro m downtown , is still easily accessible via the Montreal subway system; the de la Savane stop is within walking distance. RIB 'n REEF 8105 Boulevard De'carie (near de la Savane) Location: North of city centre Telephone: (514) 735-1601 Web site: www.ribnreef.com Open: 11:3 0 A.M.-ll P.M., Monday to Wednesday, and 11:30 A.M.-midnight, Thursday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $6.95-$23.50; main courses, $20.95$44.50; desserts, $4.75-$12.95.

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ITALIAN

RISTORANTE BI S SNAPSHOT • Located on th e secon d floo r o f a townhouse o n lower Rue de la Montagne, Ristorant e Bis is known a s a celebrity hangout. Take a quick glance through the menu and you'll notice that the emphasis is not on regional or authentic Italian cuisine , but on the type of customer-pleasing Italo-Canadian fare that continues to dominate the majority of the city's Italian restaurants. But what the kitchen lacks in creativity, the wait staff make s up for in service. Customer satisfactio n is taken so seriously here that th e kitchen will gladly prepare, on request, any Italian dish not liste d on the menu. Though Italia n restaurants ar e known for friendl y service, Bis's wait staff, led by co-owner and maltre d' Aldo Mazzaferro, works hard to assure everyone is given the star treatment. THE BIG PICTURE • Bis's menu is made up of the sort of ItaloCanadian food familia r t o many. Vitello tonnato i s served in th e form of a salad, with the thin slices of roast veal covered with tuna mayonnaise placed on a bed of arugula leaves dressed with olive oil. The grilled octopus (polpo alia griglia) is another good choice, as the chunky, tentacle-studded slices are—like the best barbecued steak—charbroiled on the outside and practically raw within. The only disappointing starter is the arancini Siciliani, a fried rice croquett e wit h a fillin g o f pea s and melte d cheese . The baseball-sized croquett e i s pasty, and th e brea d coatin g is to o thin to provide much in the way of crunch. Fortunately there's a spunky tomato sauce served alongside to enliven the flavour . The minute the main courses hit the table, the waiters sprin g into action, grating a large block of Parmesan on the spaghetti (not the seafoo d pasta), and grinding fres h peppe r over all the plate s with a 2-foot-long pepper mill. Standouts includ e th e veal cutlet ali a Parmigiana, the seared tuna loin with peppercorns, and the linguini with radicchio, oyster mushrooms , an d shrimp . The thick vea l cutlet, slathere d i n tomato sauc e and a thin laye r of gratineed Parmesa n cheese , is

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rich and filling, yet not in the least bit heavy or greasy. The seared tuna loin , grilled medium-rare , i s served wit h tw o contrastin g ingredients: aged balsamic vinegar, which adds a sweet element so enjoyable wit h grilled tuna; and arugula , that mos t powerfu l o f greens, which Italians like to pair with grilled meat and fish . The linguini is timid next to dishes such as penne arrabbiata and fettuccin i Alfredo—and that' s wha t make s it so good. Th e combination o f meaty shrimp, bitter radicchio, and earthy mushrooms swirled into a l dente linguini with herb s an d oliv e oil is the idea l choice fo r thos e grown weary of cream - o r tomato enhanced pasta dishes. Ristorante Bis follows the delightful Italia n tradition o f offer ing a complimentary frui t platte r an d walnut s afte r th e mai n course. This generous platter of grapes, fresh pineapple, and sliced oranges is a fine way to en d your meal, but the n you would be missing out on the wonderful desserts . If you're unable to chose from the many tempting sweets, ask for a plate of the three house favourites: quenelles of dreamy tiramisu, a crunchy-and-creamy cannoli, and a feather-light genoise cake filled with rich Amaretto cream. Yum! IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Eduardo Carvallio. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE* The lon g rectangula r dinin g room is comfortable and formal. With white plaster walls, exposed beams, tapestry chairs , and a terra cotta-tile floor, th e spac e is grotto-like an d cozy , the ideal spot fo r an intimate get-together. The lighting is low—so low that you'll have to squint to read the wine list. Integral t o th e ambience ar e the waiters , who look so pleased to be here one expects them to break out in an aria from a Verdi opera at any minute. WINE LIST • Bis's extensiv e an d affordabl e win e list include s almost a s many wines under $5 0 as over. Ask for suggestions ; chances ar e your waite r wil l recommen d a bottle below you r budget.

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DON'T MISS • The vitello tonnato, the gritte d octopus, the veal cutlet ali a Parmigiana, the seared tuna loin, and the dessert trio. WORDS TO THE WISE • After a night wit h I I Signore Mazzaferro, you'll understand why visiting celebrities flock to this establishment. Chances are you'll feel like a regular after onl y one visit. RISTORANTE BIS 1229 Ru e de la Montagne (nea r Ste. Catherine) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 866-3234 Web site: www.bisristorante.com Open: noon-11 P.M., Monday to Thursday, noon-midnight, Friday, and 5 p.m.-midnight, Saturday and Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended; essential on weekends Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $6.50-$18; main courses, $13-$34; desserts, $4.50-$7

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ITALIA

RISTORANTE DA VINC I SNAPSHOT • Montrealers have the Mazzaferro family, owners of Ristorante D a Vinci, t o than k fo r thei r firs t tast e o f anchovies , home-delivered pizza , and espress o coffee. Tha t was back in th e 1960s. Today , the legac y continues. Thoug h th e takeou t opera tion is long gone, the secon d generation stil l prides itself on in troducing local s an d visitor s t o authenti c Italia n cuisin e a t its best. Seamless service is just another facet of this restaurant's commitment t o excellence . And th e beautifu l Victorian townhous e setting creates the most civilized and romantic of moods.

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THE BIG PICTURE • Italian far e ha s undergon e a renaissance over the past few years, shunning modernity fo r a return to au thentic regional cooking an d high-quality imported ingredients —a concept still slow to b e adopted i n this city. There are a few Italian restaurants in Montreal making an effort to serve authentic cuisine. Ristorante Da Vinci is one of them. Although southern in spirit, this restaurant offers a repertory of popular dishes from the various regions and provinces of Italy, all Interpreted with elegance and finesse. The typical carpaccio and Mozzarella starters come to lif e a t Da Vinci. The key to this carpaccio is the high quality and intense flavour of the thinly sliced, wine-marinated beef tenderloin. Every melting mouthful of meat is enhanced with peppery, olive-oil-dressed arugula and slivers of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Superb. Carpaccio lovers are also sure to enjoy the rustico di bresaola, another beef, cheese, and arugula combination, which, though similar in appearance, offers the stronger flavours of lean, salty cured beef and pungent Fontina cow's milk cheese. Asalad of Mozzarella, tomatoes, and basil is also a cut above, as the cheese—imported buffalo Mozzarella—i s so much richer and more flavourful than the standard , tasteles s Bocconcini (it' s als o about fiv e time s as costly). Of the dishe s sample d fro m th e pasta and risotti menu, th e standout i s definitely the hearty potato gnocchi with lamb ragu sauce. The gnocchi are soft yet firm, and the creamy tomato-based sauce has a gentle lamb and rosemary flavour. Pasta medallion s served with a lively fresh tomato sauce are also outstanding. The pasta pillows are filled with ground veal, Parmesan, and nutmeg —each is as meaty as a tiny tourtiere. A generous portion of spaghettini Santa Maria is made with a delicious sauce of scallions, smoked salmon, shrimp, and diced tomato. Prices can run high on this menu, and the seafood risotto is a case in point. Though some might prefer the rice to be cooked a bit more al dente, others would argue that this version is just right. The taste, however, is not a n issue . Laced with saffron , seafood , and only a hint of fishiness, It's simply sublime. And considering the generous portion o f clams, jumbo shrimp, mussels, scallops, and calamari, the price is justified.

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The veal chop i s a wallet cruncher a s well. The 2-inch-thic k chop is portioned in-hous e an d marinated for 48 hours i n olive oil, rosemary , an d thyme . It' s the n grille d t o th e lightes t ros6, topped with crisp fried onions, and served with a braised potato, sautded rapini, and roasted carrots. Though Italian s are rarely known fo r their desserts , Da Vinci has taken care to offe r th e best o f the classic s at very reasonable prices. You could finis h you r mea l wit h a shot o f excellen t es presso, but you'd be missing out on the silky semifreddo, packed with caramelized hazelnuts and chocolate shards and served with creme anglaise, chocolate sauce, and strawberries. A dreamy panna cotta—with a red berry coulis and a handful of berries—is made with reduced , vanilla-flavoure d heavy cream an d jus t enoug h gelatin to hold together the conical shape. The lemon granita has a fresh-squeeze d flavou r an d a n idea l cream y texture. Th e bes t dessert a t D a Vinci might jus t be th e Sicilia n specialty cannoli. This bubbly, crisp dough i s so dry you'd neve r know i t emerge d from boiling oil. The nutty, spicy flavour an d crunchy texture of the cooki e offers th e ultimat e contras t t o the swee t and cream y Ricotta filling enhanced with orange and lemon zests. One can' t hel p bu t b e impresse d b y the hig h leve l of confi dence and professionalism in this room. Also appreciated is the attention to little details: the bowl of walnuts served before dessert, finger bowls for seafood eaters, homemade amarett i cookies with coffee, and waiters who are smart enough to turn away before one makes th e inexcusabl e fau x pa s o f askin g fo r grate d Parmesa n cheese on a seafood pasta or risotto. IN THE KITCHEN • Chefs Renato Ferrante and Marco Cavallino. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The dining roo m occupie s two floors o f a n elegan t Victorian townhouse . The yello w walls are hung wit h oi l painting s depictin g Montrea l winte r scenes . Frosted-glass panels divid e the groun d floo r int o cozy sections, and everywher e you look there are wine bottles gleaming in th e candlelight. Diner s are greete d by Salvator e Mazzaferro , who most night s man s the reservation book, points waiters and cus tomers in the right direction, and clears the occasional plate.

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WINE LIST • As they are at many fine Italian restaurants in Montreal, wines here are on the expensive side. Finding a good bottle at a reasonable price can be difficult. The waiters, however, can usually provide good advice. DON'T MISS • The carpaccio, the gnocch i with lamb ragu , the seafood risotto, the veal chop, and the desserts. WORDS TO THE WISE • Given that everything here—ambience, service, food , an d decor—i s i n sync , you ca n fee l confiden t i n choosing this restaurant fo r a celebratory meal (lunch or dinner) or fo r a memorable night out with guests or a group of friends. RISTORANTE DA VINCI 1180 Rue Bishop (near Ste. Catherine) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 874-2001 Web site: www.davinci.qc.ca Open: noon-midnight, Monday to Friday, 5 p.M.-midnight, Saturday, and by request on Sunday for groups of 30 or more Wheelchair access: Partial Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $8.50-$16.50; main courses, $17-$46; desserts, $5.25-$9

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RISTORANTE FRAN K SNAPSHOT • It woul d be eas y to strol l pas t Ristorant e Frank (known as Frank) without ever knowing it was a snazzy restaurant. Despite its stellar reputation an d lon g history, it coul d easil y be mistaken for a neighbourhood coffe e bar . This quiet and unpretentious establishment stake s its claim in Little Italy like a proud grandfather at an Italian wedding. Opened originally as a pizzeria 42 years ago by Francesco Scalise (the original Frank and father of the present owner, Giuseppe), Frank now serves Italian-Canadian food and has evolved into one of the area's most beloved eateries . THE BI G PICTURE • Ristorante Fran k is on e o f th e fe w finedining establishment s i n Montrea l tha t on e coul d cal l a famil y restaurant. You'll often see youngsters on the scene. Their parents —regulars to be sure—not only greet the waiters by name, but also order withou t eve n glancing at the menu. One could easily imagine them eating spaghetti or pizza here with their parents 20 years ago. The menu lists all the Italian-Canadian favourites we've grown accustomed to. Those up for something out of the ordinary should opt for the table d'h6te, which includes dishes filled with seasonal ingredients. One forkful o f Frank's pasta shells with pesto and arugul a offers a burst o f fres h flavou r tha t set s the ton e fo r th e evening . More subtle, but equall y delicious, i s farfalle wit h zucchin i blossoms. Though thes e blossoms ar e commonly stuffe d an d deep fried, here they're saute'ed in heaps of butter and tossed with th e bow-tie-shaped pasta . It's a different wa y of handling this ingredient and it works, for the slightly bitter taste of the wilted blossoms cuts through the richness of the butter. You'll fin d gnocch i with Gorgonzol a a t man y Italian restau rants, bu t yo u won't fin d man y that tast e bette r tha n Frank's . Again it's a three-ingredient affair with bite-size homemade gnocchi, a handful of potent cheese , and a dash of cream. The guilt

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factor i s enormous, s o do you r arterie s a favou r an d resis t th e offer of extra Parmesan. It's a dish to either celebrate with or drown your sorrows in. The classic spaghetti with tomato sauce and basil isn't quite as seductive. The spaghetti may be at its al dente best, but the sauce —lackluster and skimpy on the basil—is nothing to write home about. When well prepared, a thick por k cho p can rival a good veal chop—for clos e to half the cost . Frank's 2-inch pork chop with mustard-peppercorn sauc e is one suc h specimen. Tender, juicy, fiavourful... it all applies here. Equally praiseworthy is the grille d leg of lamb served in thin slices, each glistening and branded with those appealing char marks. Though the table d'hfite selections feature seasonal fare, many of th e classi c dishes woul d benefi t from a greater emphasis o n flavour. The underwhelming tomat o sauce makes an appearance again on the manicotti alia Fiorentina and the fagottini with eggplant. The manicotti, thoug h quit e good, is made with pasta instead o f the classi c crepes. Th e fagottini—four past a envelopes generously fille d wit h dice d eggplant , groun d beef, onions, an d basil—are tasty but heavy going. Veal saltimbocca, that Roman classic made with prosciutto and sage, is quite nice. Some may find the prosciutto a bit salty and— fried on the outside as it is in this rendition—dry (which is probably why the prosciutto is usually rolled inside the veal). Desserts, though homey, aren't especially Italian. Skip the tiramisu in favour of the lemon tart, which has a sharp, creamy filling . Better stil l i s the carame l nut tar t tha t stick s t o your teeth a s it should. Service is a high point. These fellows ar e part of the furniture : they know the menu inside out, they can recommend a good wine (though, like so many Italian waiters, they tend to push the pricier bottles), and they never keep you waiting for a dish or the bill. Bravo. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Joe Sciacca. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • With a no-frills neon sig n over the doo r an d curtain s masking th e vie w from th e street , you'd

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never know there's a formal dining room out back complete with tapestry chair s and linen-covere d tables . There' s eve n a terrace off t o the side , brimming ove r with herb-filled flower beds, pergolas draped in grape vines, and a lovely rock garden that pro vides a buffer fro m the street. WINE LIST • The all-Italian wine list is fairly priced, but there are no mor e than three half bottles o f red wine available, and—fo r some odd reason—the one red wine served by the glass does not come highly recommended . DON'T MISS • The past a wit h pest o an d arugula , the gnocch i with Gorgonzola, the pork chop with mustard-peppercorn sauce , and the lemon tart. WORDS TO THE WISE • There's n o arguin g with success . The wonderful sens e of eas e and familiarit y at Ristorant e Fran k is something that takes years to evolve. Take a look at the plate of focaccia offered a t the outset of the meal. This delicious little pizza, a nod to the good old days, is just one of the classics that has kept this restauran t goin g stron g fo r decades . I t ma y not b e th e flashiest restaurant in the area, but in this case, the sense of tradition runs deeper than any designer chair, chrome counter, or fussy plate presentation. RISTORANTE FRANK 65 Rue St. Zotique East (corner St. Dominique) Location: Little Italy Telephone: (514) 273-7734 Open: 1 1 A.M.-ll P.M. , Monday to Friday, and 4 P.M.-11 P.M., Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards (and Interac) Price range: Starters, $5.50-$15.50; main courses, $19-$32; desserts, $4.50-$5.50; table d'hote lunch menu, $17.50-$32.50; table d'hdte dinner menu, $23.50-$38

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RISTORANTE LUCCA SNAPSHOT • With its simple yet elegant decor, authentic cuisine, and friendl y wai t staff , Lucc a i s the idea l Italia n trattoria . The crowd is sophisticated—from th e yuppies at dinner to the locals at lunch. There's no set menu, as the Italian market cuisine, which uses the freshes t loca l ingredient s fro m th e neighbourin g JeanTalon Market , change s daily . Pastas, grilled meats , and seafoo d are standouts . Th e sof t polent a alon e i s worth th e searc h for a parking place. Few would dispute that this is one of the best trattorias in town. In a word: Magnified THE BIG PICTURE • Montreal's to p Italian restaurants fall int o two categories: the splash y and the subdued. Ristorante Lucca is the latter. Sandwiche d betwee n triplexe s an d other nondescript restaurants o n Ru e Dante i n Montreal' s Little Italy, its broa d white awning is easy to miss. Yet missing out on Ristorante Lucca (know simply as Lucca) would be a shame. Over the past three years, chef and partne r Domeni c Armeni has transformed this cozy restaurant into a satisfyingly upscale eatery, taking the neighbourhood trattori a to a whole new level. Though the menu changes daily, there are house specialties like fried calamari, grilled shrimp salad, and, in springtime, tempurastyle soft-shelled crabs. Another of Lucca's fortes i s rejuvenating the classics. The antipasto misto includes top-quality salami, prosciutto, capicolo, and bresaola neatly arranged alongside Provolone cheese, olives, peppers, eggplant, and marinate d fresh artichoke hearts. Exemplifying th e kitchen's style are dishes like gnocchi made with truffl e flour and rigatoni with rapini, garlic, and sun-dried tomatoes. Veal chops are found o n ever y upscale Italian menu . Lucca's—grilled on the outside, ros£ on the inside, and meltingly tender—are among the best. And the accompanying fluffy white

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polenta made with milk, cream, garlic, and basil is heavenly. Here the sweet course is taken seriously. The tiramisu is cakey and coffee-soaked , an d th e pann a cott a i s utterly authentic — barely gelatinized, speckled with vanilla beans, and topped wit h fresh raspberries . There's plenty to like about Lucca , and not just in the kitchen. Service is excellent—an exper t balanc e between casual friendliness and professionalism. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef s an d owner s Domeni c Armen i an d Claudio Fabielo. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The decor is pared-down and elegant—completely fre e o f flash , pretension , o r (th e fli p side ) checkered tablecloths. Th e walls are sponge-painted i n soothin g tones o f beige, th e plai n woode n chair s ar e comfortable , an d there's a lovely fresh-flower arrangemen t a t the bar. The lighting is low at dinner and bright at lunch, when the smell of fried calamari permeates the air. Noise levels can be alarmingly high, since the room is small-—there are only 42 seats and a few choice places at the bar. WINE LIST • The win e list ha s improved , and ther e i s now a greater variety of wines under $50 . Nonetheless, be prepared to pay between $50 and $7 0 for something ou t o f the ordinary. All wines under $50 are available by the glass at one-quarter th e price of the bottle plus $1 (average price is $9). Ask your waiter if they are any new—unlisted—wines in the cellar. DON'T MISS • The antipasto, the calamari, the grilled veal chop, the osso buco, the tiramisu, and the panna cotta . WORDS TO THE WISE • Parking can be a problem. Lucca is near the Jean-Talon Market in the heart of Little Italy, two destination s popular wit h shopper s an d restaurant-goers . Consider takin g a cab or public transportation, o r be prepared to make a couple of loops aroun d th e block . Remembe r als o that foo d thi s goo d comes at a fairly hefty price.

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RISTORANTE LUCCA 12 Rue Dante (near St. Laurent) Location: Little Italy Telephone: (514) 278-6502 Open: Lunch, noon-3 p.m., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.10 P.M., Monday to Wednesday, 6 P.M.- 10:30 P.M., Thursday t o Friday, and 6 P.M.- 11 P.M., Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $10-$22; main courses, $18-$36; desserts, $6-$8; three-course table d'hote lunch menu, $16-$25

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RISTORANTE PRIM O ET SECONDO SNAPSHOT • Predictable Italian-Canadian menus seem to pro liferate in Montreal. Happily, this is not the case at Primo et Secondo. Che f an d owne r Robert o Stabil e make s no regiona l o r authentic claims for his cuisine, classifying it simply as cucina stagionale (seasona l cuisine). The market-side locatio n couldn' t be more fitting , for the menu change s often—even betwee n lunc h and dinner. The ambience strikes that near perfect note between upscale and casual. Waiters are happy-go-lucky friendly, and service is thoroughly professional. THE BIG PICTURE • An evenin g at Prim o e t Second o usuall y begins with a round of chatting and cocktail-sipping. Next, afte r perusing th e men u poste d o n on e o f two blackboards, you'l l probably start glancing at the plates on neighbouring tables to try to determine whether it's the pasta or the veal chop that smells so divine. Once orders are finalized, chances are you'll be tempted by one of the superb homemade breads, such as focaccia with thin

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slices of zucchini, country bread stuffed with sauteed Swiss chard, grilled bread rubbed with garlic (the "real" bruschetta), or bread sticks—all homemade an d serve d with a swirl of roasted garlic pur£e. The starters made with cheese are often the most satisfying, A simple plate of impeccably grilled vegetables is enlivened with a slice o f shar p Pecorino . I n plac e o f the ubiquitou s tomat o an d Mozzarella appetizer, there's tomato wit h Tuma , a milky-tasting cheese with a texture between fresh Mozzarell a and Ricotta. Add to that a mound of lightly dressed arugula leaves and a few slices of celery, and you have a combination that could only be bettered by the additio n o f summer's first tomatoes. A third starter wit h Ricotta cheese, sliced avocado, pine nuts, and sun-dried tomatoes displays the chef's flair for plate presentation . Main courses, though no t al l spot-on, certainl y showcase the ingenuity of this kitchen. A dish of pennone (larg e penne) with figs, raisins, and fres h tomatoe s gets top mark s for effort, eve n if the overridin g taste tend s to be sweet and th e pasta could us e a sauce to tie it all together. Lack of sauce, however, is hardly a problem wit h th e dis h of agnolotti. Th e crescent-shape d past a pocket s are fille d wit h a mushroom duxelle s and drenche d i n a rich cream-base d mush room sauce enhanced with truffle oil . There's no missing the veal at Primo et Secondo. You'll notice Flintstone-sized chops whizzing past all night. Served sans sauce (but with a few drops of truffle oil), the medium-rare meat is tender and juicy. The accompaniments include sauteed rapini, a single artichoke heart, and rosemary-flavoured mashed potatoes . Osso buco here is made with lamb—as opposed t o the usual veal—and is served on a bed of superb butternut-squash risotto . What I miss most abou t this version i s the lack of marrow. Osso buco without marrow is like Pavarotti without th e paunch. This dish would be better described as braised lamb shank . Fish lovers are well served here, for most nights there are numerous selections, including swordfish, tuna, and Arctic char. The Arctic char is a standout: perfectly cooked, fresh-tasting, and rich (Arctic char is salmon's aristocratic cousin). It's also well matched with a puree of sweet potatoes and sauteed spinach.

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Desserts change along with the rest of the menu, but ther e is always tiramisu. This version is pretty, creamy, and not much else. Better i s the poache d pear with butterscotc h ic e cream, sponge toffee (like the filling of a Crunchie bar), and cinnamon sauce, and the grilled panetonne with Bailey's liqueur, more butterscotch ice cream, sauteed bananas, and hazelnut sauce. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Roberto Stabile. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The dinin g roo m i s small an d simple. With white walls and wooden furniture, the fee l is more along the lines of a Greek taverna than an Italian trattoria. There's a large bar on the left sid e of the room near the kitchen, and the front windows overlook Rue St. Dominique. WINE LIST • The wine list is short and fairl y priced, with many selections unde r $5 0 and severa l wines availabl e by the glas s for u p to $12. The choice of white wines is weak, and more effor t has been placed on wines for those willing to splurge than those with an eye on the bottom line. If you're up for an interesting predinner cocktail, try a Venetian Kiss, a seductive mix of Amarone and Amaretto served on trie rocks with a cinnamon stick. DON'T MISS • The appetizers with cheese, the pastas, the lamb shank, the veal chop, the Arctic char, and the grilled panetonne. WORDS TO THE WISE • In a cit y overflowin g with Italia n restaurants, Primo e t Secondo should be applauded for its fres h take on Italia n market cuisine . There are a few kinks that need ironing out, but judging by the level of innovation, these fellows seem to be giving it their all.

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RISTORANTE PRIMO ET SECONDO 7023 Rue St. Dominique (nea r Shamrock) Location: Little Italy Telephone: (514 ) 908-0838 Open: 11:30 A.M.-ll P.M. , Tuesday to Friday, and 5:30 P.M.11 P.M., Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $8.50-$11.50; main courses, $18.50-$39; desserts, S7.50

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RISTORANTE SAPORI PRONT O SNAPSHOT • Westmount's Pront o ha s a style al l its own. Chef and owne r Peppin o Perri' s cuisine , though no t particularl y regional or authentic, is vibrant—a quality all too rare with Italian Canadian fare . Th e men u isn' t to o differen t fro m tha t o f your average trattoria, bu t the Italian lineup of brothy soups, bracing sauces, flash-frie d cutlets , an d al l that gloriou s past a i s always tempting—as clos e as you ca n com e t o a culinary sur e thing . Plate presentation s ar e modern an d appealing , and ingredient s are fresh, high quality, and treated with respect. THE BIG PICTURE • When many of us were growing up, home pasta options wer e often limited to two Italian-Canadian stand bys: lasagna and spaghetti with mea t sauce—not Bolognese, but meat sauce. If you wanted somethin g a s exotic as polenta, pesto, or puttanesca, you would have to dine out . Today, our dinner tables are often graced with prosciutto, mar inated vegetables, fresh Mozzarella , frittata, risotto, bitter greens, and grille d meats sprinkle d liberall y with extra-virgi n oliv e oil .

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Peppino Perri, chef and owner of Pronto, is partly responsible for thi s revolution. Perri has taught hundred s of amateurs an d professionals how to cook Italian at home. For those not interested in discoverin g the secrets of al dente penne and cream y risotto, Perri offers takeout. As Perri' s men u fall s int o th e everything-sounds-goo d cate gory, consider opting fo r a n extr a past a course . Rare in Nort h America, dining in courses—antipasti, primi, secondi, dolce—is de rigeur in Italy. Pronto makes multicourse menus easy by charging half the price plus $2 for a half portion o f pasta. Appetizers include antipasti: soup (stracciatelle), Caesar salad, and a vegetable antipasto plate . The secret of a good stracciatell e (hot chicken broth strewn with "rags" of scrambled egg) is a robust homemade stock. Perri's is bang-on and he serves it alia Fiorentina (with spinach), which not only offers a more complex flavour , but also a healthy dose of vitamins. If you're used to the grab-bag antipasto plate of assorted ministarters, you'll be pleased to discover Pronto's version , which focuses on vegetables: grilled zucchini and re d peppers, as well as marinated mushroom s and a mound of mesclun. On t o th e primi . Tha t perennia l favourite , spaghetti Bolognese, is loaded wit h ground beef swathed in a n intens e tomat o sauce. The texture is velvety and the flavour is deep and delicious. Gnocchi with tomato sauce is another delight, as the gnocchi are as light as they come. The brightness—acidity, really—of the sauce takes this dish from well crafted to memorable . Main courses can be a tad disappointing . A plate of calamari comes drowned in tomato sauce. And the grilled swordfish, served with a creamy Sambucca sauce, is sometimes overcooked . A good choic e from th e main s would be the vea l scaloppini Toscane, a decadent affai r consistin g o f thre e vea l medallions topped with a layer of spinach and melted Mozzarella cheese. Accompaniments include a tangle of julienned vegetables and a cake of al dente arborio rice. Though dessert s aren't a n essentia l part o f a n Italia n meal , Pronto's simpl e offering s ar e worth th e adde d indulgence . Th e tiramisu includes six wonderful bites of cake, cocoa, and cream

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tripped u p with booze. A poached pea r served with Mascarpon e suffers onl y because the pear lacks sweetness. That sweet and eggy froth, zabaglione, is warm and laced with Sambucca . Yum. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Peppino Perri. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The room, with it s blond-wood trim and burgundy walls, is divided into two levels. At the back of the top floor is a counter filled with takeout meals, the whole surrounded b y Italian gourme t product s includin g Ill y coffe e an d olive oils. WINE LIST • The wine list includes tw o pages of the same runof-the-mill Italian wines you see in most Italian restaurants around town. For example, a Masi Campofiorin, a $19 wine priced at $50, comes to over $60 with tax and tip. Ouch. DON'T MISS • The antipast o plate , th e gnocchi , th e spaghett i Bolognese, the veal Toscane, and the tiramisu . WORDS TO THE WISE • Service can be a problem if you end up with th e wron g waiter. Downstairs , th e table s ar e cramped an d the space is somewhat claustrophobic. Yet , despite the squeeze, an air of casual elegance permeates this restaurant . RISTORANTE SAPORI PRONT O 4894 Rue Sherbrooke West (near Prince Albert) Location: Westmount/NDG Telephone: (514) 487-9666 Open: 1 0 A.M.- 10 P.M., Monday to Saturday, and 4 P.M.10 P.M., Sunday Wheelchair access : No Reservations: Essential Cards: All major cards (and Interac) Price range: Starters, $6-$16; pastas, $12-$22; main courses , $18-$36; desserts, $6-$9

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ROSALIE SNAPSHOT • With its seventies design, retro-French menu, and personable chef , Rosali e has quickl y become on e o f the city' s hippest restaurants. Chef and partner David McMillan has worked tirelessly t o produc e hi s ide a o f a good Montrea l restauran t and develo p a n authenti c cuisin e "Montrealaise." The deco r is Wallpaper-magazine chi c and the ambience ranges from sleepy at lunch to hopping at dinnertime. Arrive early and enjoy a cocktail while soaking up the scene at the bar. THE BIG PICTURE • There's a great sense of adventure dining at Rosalie. Imagine a resta.urant that is half Montreal tavern, half French brasserie, set in a downtown spac e best described as seventies rec-room glam. The menu lists everything from Frenc h fries t o foie gras, and the crow d includes everyon e from littl e old ladies and businessmen at lunch, to pretty girls with cell phones and hotshots sporting baseball caps at dinner. With so many factors at play, it's toug h to pinpoint Rosalie's true character . The only common them e running through thi s restaurant is chef David McMillan. A partner i n th e enterprise , McMillan has put his stamp on everything: the menu and cocktail list, the diner-style plates, the bare-wood tables, and more. McMillan is well known as the chef of the iiber-trendy St. Laurent restaurant Globe. He remains a partner and executive chef at Globe, but now spends most of his time at his new venture. When he's here, he's a commanding presence. With the look and charm of a modern-day Jackie Gleason, one minute he's at the bar pouring shots of absinthe, the next he's at the door helping a lady off with he r coat . Want a wine recommendation? McMillan' s your man. What's the best fish this time of year? He'll probably suggest the halibut. When a group gets out of hand, he moves in to settle them down. He's even been seen shovelling the walkway.

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His presence is most fel t o n the plates . McMillan may be a n Anglophone, but he's a Francophile at heart. Rosalie's menu offer s cleverly modernized Frenc h classics, part Paris' s Brasserie Lipp, part New York's Balthazar, all made with choice local ingredients. Appetizers such as the seafood platter, lentil salad, and parfai t de foie gras are all winners. The seafood selection features pristine Raspberry Point oysters, clams, barnacles, and other shelled creatures in season, presented on crushed ice on the same long-legged trays you see at Paris brasseries like La Coupole and Bofmger. The lentil salad includes endive, radish, and assorted sprouts, the whole laced with a wicked Dijon vinaigrette. The fancy liver pate is rich and slightly sweet—heavenly when smeared on the toasted pain de campagne topped with the accompanying quince jelly. Soups are another sur e bet. In winter, don't mis s the squash soup fille d wit h mussel s and shrimp . In spring , there's a hearty carrot sou p toppe d wit h pea s an d strew n wit h saute'e d oyster mushrooms. Main cours e standouts includ e simpl e roast chicke n served with a light Rieslin g sauce, root vegetables , and a side of silky mashed potatoes. Serve d on a nutty pilaf o f pearl barley comes braised vea l with flesh so tender yo u ca n cu t throug h i t with a fork. Steak frite s i s a must fo r thi s styl e of restaurant . McMillan's hanger stea k served with a shallot jus was proclaimed "merveilleux" by a notoriously difficult loca l French food critic. The fries , presented in a lion's head bowl with a side of mayonnaise, are crisp and delicious. Just when you think this place is French enough to admit pugs and golden retrievers, along comes a dish that displays the kitchen's need to break out of the mould. A perfect example is the hot smoked salmon with cucumber and fennel, a lovely combination where the freshness o f the vegetables contrasts perfectly with th e smoky richness of the fish . Desserts include an oversized yogourt panna cotta topped with grapefruit sorbet . A large Tatin-style apple pie arrives brimming with caramel and sprinkled with pine nuts. Speared with a vanilla bean and paired with pound cak e and vanilla ice cream comes a

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chunk o f roasted pineapple . It' s no t rocke t science , but anyon e who includes pound cak e in a dessert is okay by me. And if that weren't enough , there's a selection o f over six local and French cheeses available to polish off that last glass of wine. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and co-owner David McMillan. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The wall s ar e a patchwork of blond-wood panellin g and mirrors . O n th e lef t there' s a long streak of a bar, with rows of globe lights running down the length of the room' s low ceiling. At night, Rosalie is dark and s o noisy that you have to holler to be heard. By day, it's bright and quiet , with a gentle hum o f conversation an d Fran k Sinatra standard s playing softly in the background. WINE LIST • In an effort t o break away from the bit-of-this/bitof-that international-style carte , McMillan focuses on France. His list include s a n impressive , well-researched selection , with tw o dozen botdes under $55, and close to fifty under $100, with about 75 percent privately imported. There's also a cocktail menu and a good choice of local and imported beers. DON'T MISS • The col d seafoo d platter , th e endiv e and lenti l salad, the foi e gra s parfait, the braised veal, the hot smoke d salmon with cucumber and fennel, and the molten chocolate tourte. WORDS TO THE WISE • The staf f ma y b e a bit hesitant , bu t everyone seems eager to please. McMillan is often see n roaming about the room, so don't hesitate to call him over to your table to ask for recommendations, especiall y on wines. As noise levels at night can be excruciating, this isn't the place for an intimate din nertime conversation.

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ROSALIE 1232 Rue de la Montagne (near Ste. Catherine) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 392-1970 Web site: www.rosalierestaurant.com Open: 1 1 A.M.-midnight, Monday to Friday, and 5 P.M.midnight, Saturday and Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters (lunch), $9-$14, starters (dinner), $8-S18; main courses (lunch), $14-$23, main courses (dinner), $24 $42; desserts (lunch), $4-$8, desserts (dinner), $8

sss

ITALIAN

RUGANTINO SNAPSHOT • Though Rugantino is a relative newcomer, chef and owner Roman o Nadir i s not. Nadi r was formerly chef at Quell i Delia Notte, where he was acclaimed fo r his simple, traditional , and regional Italian cuisine prepared with high-quality, seasonal ingredients. Located on the northern stretch of the Main, Nadir's current restaurant shares that same cooking philosophy. His menu includes antipasti, pastas, fish, and meats, along with a list of daily specials posted on a blackboard. The ambience is relaxed and service is delightful. THE BIG PICTURE • When it comes to Italian cuisine, the words "traditional" and "authentic" often com e to mind. Authentic cuisine is challenging to reproduce overseas, as chefs must make do with a combinatio n o f importe d an d loca l ingredients . An d though the mandat e t o offe r traditiona l food i s easier to follow , the word itself carries the slightly negative connotation o f stodgy dishes and large portions.

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Ultimately, seasonal eating i s the answer . It's wha t keeps the food vibrant—mile s awa y from th e interchangeabl e pastas and dreary scaloppinis listed on many menus year-round. Rugantino is one of the city's rare Italian restaurants to follow this ideal. Dinner a t Rugantino begins with a plate o f complimentar y deep-fried olive s and chickpea fries. While nibbling on these, dip a piece of bread into the pale green olive oil. The flavour is reminiscent of cut grass and artichokes, with a peppery aftertaste that warms its way down one's throat. Quality stuff. Appetizers include white asparagus topped with truffle oil and a few shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano. If mushrooms are your pleasure, try the grilled portobello and oyster mushrooms mari nated in olive oil, balsamic vinegar, lemon, and herbs. It's the ideal starter fo r mushroo m aficionado s who eagerl y await the mos t flavourful, firm specimens that arrive in late spring and fall . Chef Nadir' s fis h sou p consist s of a light, aromatic brot h tinged with tomato and filled with plump mussels, shrimp, clams, scallops, and bits of sole. Seafood lovers will also enjoy the grilled octopus. The thick, tentacle-laden slices are not onl y tender, but also coated wit h a sweet sauce more i n lin e with Chines e foo d than Italian cuisine. Main-course selections pose a problem: should one opt for a meat or fish dish, or one of the tempting pastas and risottos? Consider tasting something from each category, as the results are usually outstanding. Linguin i in a pesto sauce enriched wit h cream can be cloying. But this version is light, with more basil than garlic. Add to that a handful o f shrimp and you have a pasta dish tha t makes you forget tomato sauce ever existed. One of the most original dishes is the risotto Certosina, which includes shrimp, cherry tomatoes, peas, and—an original touch —frog's legs . Though no t everyone' s favourit e (frog's legs are often froze n an d therefore fishy), these lovely legs are meaty and clean-tasting. On top of that, the rice is correctly al dente, though a bit dry considering most Italian risottos are on the soupy side. On the meat front, don't miss the great Venetian classic, fegato alia Veneziana (veal liver with onions). Served with roasted potatoes and braised bok choy, the thinly sliced, saute'ed liver is tender without a trace of mushiness, and the onions melt in the mouth. Superb.

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Desserts are simple—as Italian desserts should be. There's an excellent crem e carame l toppe d wit h port , and a goo d crem e brulee. A crepe filled with strawberries and Chantilly cream and covered with chocolat e sauce is the best of the lot—even though it's not particularly Italian. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Romano Nadir. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The room is simply decorated i n a festive , carniva l style , wit h a playful blu e an d yello w colou r scheme. WINE LIST • Rugantino's short but affordabl e win e list is interesting and inexpensive. Also available are wines by the glass, reasonably priced from $6 to $9. DON'T MISS • The zucchini flowers, the grilled octopus, the linguini with pesto and shrimp, the risotto Certosina, and the fegato alia Veneziana. WORDS TO THE WISE • The ambienc e i n the dinin g roo m ranges from sleepy on quiet nights to buzzing closer to the weekend. Rugantino's somewhat obscure location may keep the trendies away, but that' s just what makes it the ideal destination fo r a quiet or romantic gourmet evening. RUGANTINO 5486 Boulevard St. Laurent (near St. Viateur) Location: The Main Telephone: (514) 277-6921 Open: Lunch, noon-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.-11 P.M., Monday to Saturday Wheelchair access : Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $4-$10; main courses, $13-$28; desserts, $4-$7; three-course table d'h6te lunch menu, $9.50-$14.50

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$$$.

AMERICAN

SAVANNAH SNAPSHOT • Grits, collard greens, pickled watermelon rind , and blackened catfis h may be a first for many Montreal diners. Savannah, one of Boulevard St. Laurent's most elegant restaurants, has all of this an d more . Chef and co-owne r Pete r Pryor offers Low Country, Creole, and Caju n basics paired with flavour enhancer s such as Stilton, Parmesan, ai'oli, and maple syrup. A dish of seared foie gras with age d country ham and blackberry demi-glace well typifies th e restaurant' s sloga n o f "Southern fusion , Norther n cool." The result: artistic plate presentations, unique flavour combinations, and a handful o f ingredients rarel y seen north o f th e Mason-Dixon Line. THE BIG PICTURE • Breaking into a velvety triangle o f warm cornbread studde d with jalapenos, you'll already be turned o n to Savannah's charms. There's just so much to like about this restaurant. Yet Southern fusio n i s an ambitious agenda , and on e can' t help but expect fireworks. Molasses duck quesadilla s with blu e chees e and onio n mar malade are good fun. Served with a mound o f fried onion rings , the quesadillas are crisp, and the duck and onion fillin g holds its own next to the ever-powerful blue cheese. Foie gras with aged country ham (think prosciutto) and blackberry demi-glace is another fine pairing, with the ever-so-luxurious liver beating the salty ham i n the flavour department. And it's a steal at $13.50 . Savannah's crab cake is more subtle than the average breaded and fishy hockey pucks you'll fin d elsewhere . Meaty, gently flavoured, an d delicat e enough t o barel y hold together , thi s cake , served with a creamy chive sauce and deep-fried beet squiggles, is true to southern form. Unfortunately, a few of the other starter s seem like great ideas whose time has yet to come. A wild mushroom tar t with Stilto n

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cheese and caramelize d onions would wor k better i f the onion s didn't completel y overwhel m th e mushroom s an d th e cheese . Catfish goujonette s (deep-frie d strips), serve d with red-peppe r aioli dipping sauce, are marred by the flavour of the dull breading, which appeare s t o b e a mixture o f cornmeal an d store-bough t bread crumbs. Thank heaven for the accompanying candy-sweet pickled watermelon rin d and peppery ginger slaw, both of which help to brighten up the dish. That sam e breading appears on a main-course chicken-frie d steak. The steak is—you guessed it—breaded and frie d lik e the classic chicken, an d serve d with mashe d potatoe s an d tha t ol d American standby, succotash (cor n and lima bean salad). It only takes one bite to realize what an integral role a well-seared crust plays i n th e steak-lovin g experience ; thi s stea k almos t taste s poached. Also lacking i n the sea r department i s the blackene d catfis h served with buttery grits. Blackened fish doesn't have to be burnt to a crisp, but i t does need to be blackened. This filet—thoug h silky in texture—is no more than browned . Southern food has a pleasant homey element that sometime s gets lost in all the fuss. The gumbo is a case in point. Reading the words "chicke n an d andouill e [smoke d sausage ] gumbo wit h shrimp and oysters" is sure to make your mouth water. What arrives is impressive: two potato baskets filled with rice, one topped with sauteed shrimp , the othe r wit h a spoonful of chicken an d sausage in sauce. Surrounding them are caramelized pecans and delightful zucchini beignets. It's all delicious, but more of a fancy deluxe southern mishmas h plate than a simple gumbo. It turns ou t tha t simple r i s better a t Savannah. A pork chop, stuffed with cornbread an d served with whipped sweet potatoes, is a winner. Also excellent are the seare d scallops with andouill e and truffled mashe d potatoes and collard greens, which taste like a cross between Swiss chard and spinach . Southerners are known for their sweet tooth, but don't expect rustic sweet potato or pecan pies on this upscale menu. The trio of ice-cream sandwiches, an original take on the childhood classic , consists of an oatmeal an d sun-drie d cherr y biscuit with white-

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chocolate ice cream, a molasses biscuit filled with Wild Turkey ice cream, and—th e best of th e lot—pecan brittle ic e cream sandwiched between layers of caramel cake. Covered i n orange zest s an d serve d with orang e crem e an glaise, the chocolate bread puddin g is a knockout, goo d enough to make you wish the four-bite portion coul d be more generous. Service, though professional, falls short only when it comes to wine recommendations . IN THE KITCHEN • Executive chef and co-owne r Pete r Pryo r and chef de cuisine Ken Buckland. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Savannah occupie s the stylis h space formerl y occupied b y restauran t L e Bouchon. Restored above an d beyon d it s former splendor , th e roo m no w features terra cotta-coloured walls, red lampshades, striped banquettes, Art Deco chandeliers, and floor-to-ceiling windows facing the street and terrace. With lights dimmed just so and jazzy tunes playing softly i n th e background , thi s migh t jus t be th e mos t elegan t restaurant i n town. WINE LIST • The wine list, which starts off with a page of Martinis, feature s a haphazard selectio n o f New World an d Italia n wines, with a handful of Frenc h throw n i n fo r goo d measure . Though the Californian selections are steep in price, the remaining bottles are a bit more reaisonable, and there's a good selectio n of wines by the glass. DON'T MISS • The molasses duck quesadillas, the crab cake, the pork cho p stuffe d wit h cornbread , the tri o o f ice-crea m sand wiches, and the chocolate bread pudding. WORDS TO THE WISE • Diners o n a budget might prefe r th e less expensive lunch menu (a rarity in our better restaurants), or, for a bit o f fun, the weekend brunch with live jazz. Home cook s take note: Pryor holds cooking classes for adults and children i n the restaurant' s kitchen . I n th e summer , this restauran t ha s a lovely garden terrace.

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SAVANNAH 4448 Boulevard St. Laurent (near Mont Royal) Location: The Main Telephone: (514) 904-0277 Web site: www.savannahrestaurant.com Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5 P.M.- 10:30 P.M., Monday to Wednesday, 5 P.M.midnight, Thursday to Saturday; brunch, 10 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Saturday and Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $7.50-$13.50; main courses, $17-$29; desserts, $6-$7.50

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JAPANESE

SHO-DAN SNAPSHOT • The Montreal love affair with sushi carries on, and those up fo r fine sashimi, sushi, and funk y maki s should bypass the sleep y downtown dinne r scen e for a night a t Sho-Dan. The modern, slee k setting is ideal for risk takers willing to tr y blueberries and pineapple in their maki rolls. The traditional sushi-ba r offerings are also delicious—ultrafresh an d beautifully presented . THE BIG PICTURE • When the sushi craze broke in Montreal in the early eighties, many chefs and ambitious home cooks ran ou t to purchase bamboo mats , powdered wasabi , and Kokuho Rose rice. Suddenly, sushi was on every caterer's canape platter, mak i rolls were available at the corner depanneur, and sushi bars were popping u p faste r tha n Hond a dealerships . Th e smel l o f nori (seaweed) was everywhere. But once butterfly-shaped maki rolls and frui t an d chocolat e sush i dessert s startin g appearing , one would have assumed that the trend seekers would leave this Japanese import behind.

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Wrong! Sushi was in the right place at the right time. Exotic, aesthetic, low fat, and guilt-free, no food better embodies the current Zeitgeist of healthy eating and tranquil living. Sushi is today's soul food. Montrealers' fling with sushi has deepened into a committed relationship . Loca l Japanese restaurants (alon g wit h a handful o f trendy Italian restaurants), are reaping the benefits— Sho-Dan among them. The menu list s well-known sush i and sashim i combinations, single a la carte selections, and, for non-sushi eaters , a variety of salads a s well as several teriyaki an d tempur a dishes . Sho-Dan also excels in the preparation of adventurous maki rolls, reflecting the North America n take on this traditional Japanese favourite. Three in-house creations include the Twister, the Sushi Pizza, and th e Rome o an d Juliet . All are knockouts . Th e Twiste r is a pan-fried, oval-shaped maki roll that contains strips of white fish, rice, carrot, and scallion. Sliced thin and fanned ou t o n a babyblue plate , it's serve d with a tangy teriyaki-lemon mayonnaise . Every bite, coated in a crispy tempura-flake crust , offer s a contrasting crunch y and smooth texture—it's reminiscent o f good fried chicken, and even more fun. The Sush i Pizza is eve n better. A chewy baked ric e cak e is topped with spicy sauce, thin slices of raw tuna, smoked salmon, and smal l mound s o f gleamin g orang e an d gree n (wasabi enhanced) flying-fis h roe . The Rome o and Julie t i s as funk y a sushi creatio n a s one ca n imagine. Check out thes e ingredients: pineapple chunks, blueberries, raspberries, rice, shrimp, and spicy sauce. Everything is layered, wrapped, rolled in nori, deep-fried, thinly sliced, and... served with orange segments! It tastes better than it sounds. The subtle fruit flavour is given a boost by a terrific teriyaki sauce made with ginger and sesame seed oil. From the a la carte sushi menu, don't miss Sho-Dan's version of the Kamikaze maki roll, Made with salmon , avocado, cucumber, an d crisp y tempura flakes that provid e a pleasant "Snap , Krackle & Pop" with every bite, this roll has created legions of addicts who frequent the restaurant for nothing else but. The Vancouver roll, a uramaki (a reverse roll with the rice on the outside), contains smoked salmon, avocado, cucumber, smelt roe, and ginseng. The remarkable quality here is lightness; there's no hint of

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the cloying stickines s found in the hard-packed, rice-laden con coctions of lesser establishments . Traditional sushi-bar offering s ar e also first-rate. A variety of sashimi includes maguro (red tuna), syake (salmon), and shiromi (whitefish). Of the sushi selections, the basic nigiri includes thi n slices of shrimp, salmon, whitefish, and tuna, each draped over a hand-shaped quenelle of rice flavoured with vinegar and a generous swas h of wasabi . Both th e perfectl y seasone d ric e an d th e fresh fis h have a melting texture that dissolves on the palate, the richness an d th e sof t textur e s o perfecdy capturin g the sensua l sushi experience. The beef teriyaki is an attention grabber, as it's served atop a large mound o f bean sprout s an d the whole plate arrives at the table sizzling hot. How hot? Too hot, for the steak is overcooked. In addition, the meat is insufficiently flavourful t o stand up to the robust, sweet sauce. For dessert , skip the re d bean ic e cream, which isn' t al l that different fro m goo d old vanilla. The ginger ice cream is a better choice, as it's packed with nuggets of peppery candied ginger. The rich and creamy creme brulee is perfect. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Romeo Pham. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The dining room is modern an d sleek: high ceilings, angular beige- and cream-painted walls, tubular spotlights, and contemporar y furniture—not especiall y Japanese, but neither is the jazzy background music . WINE LIST • There are three kinds of sake available, along with about 30 international wine s priced between $28 and $60. DON'T MISS • The octopus salad, the sushi and sashimi, and the house makis: the Twister, the Sush i Pizza, the Rome o and Juliet, and the Kamikaze. WORDS TO THE WISE • In a time when it's common t o pay top dollar fo r grilled steak , this exquisit e fare ca n lay claim to bein g one of the best values around. For a bit of entertainment, fin d a

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seat at the sushi bar and watch the chefs do their thing. And don't be too shy to strike up a conversation; they'll be happy to guide you in your choices. SHO-DAN 2020 Rue Metcalfe (near de Maisonneuve) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 987-9987 Web site: www.shodan.com Open: Lunch, 11 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5 P.M.- 10:30 P.M., Monday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended; essential at lunch Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $2.50-$15; main courses, $10.95-$22; desserts, $2.95-$5.95

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ITAUAN

SOTTO SOPR A SNAPSHOT • Sotto Sopra first gained popularity with the young, upwardly mobile Italian crowd, not so much for the food but for the bar scene. The menu was appealing, but it seemed better suited to a casual hangout than a serious fine-dining establishment. But now, with che f Vincenzo Bonfa (forme r chef at Ristorant e D a Vinci) on board, Sotto Sopra has entered the big leagues. Bonfa's menu is short and focused. He describes his cuisine as "new-style Italian," featurin g light sauces (many made with wine) , homemade pastas, and top-quality ingredients he selects each morning at the Jean-Talon Market. THE BIG PICTURE • Italian restaurant waiters fall into two categories: the tuxedo-wearing seasoned pros, whose charm and fine manners immediatel y se t diners a t ease, and th e youn g bucks, whose suave looks might disguise a paucity of knowledge in th e

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prosciutto, pasta , an d Parmesa n departments . Th e waiters a t Sotto Sopra offer th e best of both worlds. Menu descriptions ar e accurate, and wine suggestions are solid. From th e shor t lis t o f appetizers, a seafood-laden fis h sou p hailing from the chef's native Calabria is one of the best in town. The large , shallow bowl include s clam s an d mussels , a s well as chunks o f grouper , wild stripe d bass , swordfish , an d whiting . You're sure to enjoy the tender bits offish whil e spooning up the light fish stock laced with tomato. The antipasto plate is everything antipasto shoul d be . Eating your way around the plate, you'll begin with tomato Bocconcin i and fried calamari , which are tender, crisp, and grease-free. Con tinuing clockwise, there's prosciutto-wrapped melon , followed by sweet marinated re d peppers, salty olives, and thic k slice s of pi quant Calabrian sausage and salami. Best displayin g Bonfa' s moder n styl e is a plate o f se a bass carpaccio. Sliced whisper thin, the fish is all texture. The accompanying strips of sun-dried tomato and cubes of potato provid e all the flavour, while a splash of extra-virgin olive oil and a sprinkling of sea salt add a welcome dose of acidity and richness . A plate of imported slice d prosciutto serve d with watermelon , slices of pear , grapes, and chunk s o f Parmesa n chees e drizzled with balsamic vinegar isn't quit e a s satisfying. Surprisingly , this prosciutto is on the drab side, and the texture is less melting than the domestic prosciutto o n the antipasto plate. Risotto is a must i n any upscale Italian restaurant. Chock ful l of flesh y kin g mushroom s an d surrounde d b y perfectly seare d scallops, this risotto scores high. Made to order, it's finished with olive oil instead of the usual butter. Bonfa's cooking of tagliatelle may also be a personal preference. Served in a hearty brown sauc e laced with porcin i mushrooms , the past a is almost to o a l dente . O f course , pasta shoul d b e a l dente, but this pasta verges on stiff . Homemade raviol i fare s better . Topped wit h a butter-and broth sauc e enhanced wit h choppe d min t an d orang e zest , the thick past a pillow s ar e stuffe d wit h spinac h an d Ricotta . Th e combination i s original and th e sweetnes s of the topping s plays nicely off the filling .

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The veal filet with a truffle an d thyme sauce is the best main course on the menu. The filet, sliced into thick medallions and panfried to a crust, is moist and medium-rare in the centre. Accompaniments include a roasted potato and sauteed rapini. For dessert, try the rich and frothy tiramisu made with Mascarpone and chocolate layers spiked with Grand Marnier. The panna cotta, a trembling dome of white vanilla cream set atop a pool of caramelized strawberr y coulis, is served i n a tall glass . Perhaps most interestin g i s the diplomatic o cak e made of a pastry shell filled wit h lemo n syrup-soake d sponge cake and custar d light ened with whipped cream. Cap the evening off with a thimbleful of espresso that's as tight and dark as an Italian leather jacket. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Vincenzo Bonfa. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Sotto Sopr a boast s on e o f th e city's most magical locations. The dining room is long and narrow, with floor-to-ceiling windows running alongside the neighbourhood park . Th e room i s snazz y in that blond-wood-glassed wine-cellar-plastic-chair-open-kitchen sort of way. In an effort t o discourage the after-hours crowd , the bar has been removed and replaced with tables, creating a more subdued an d sophisticate d ambience. WINE LIST • Sotto Sopra's wine list offers close to a page of Italian selections unde r $60 , and anothe r page of bottles over $70. The best bottle s ar e decanted, an d wine recommendations ar e solid . DON'T MISS • The veal filet with a truffle an d thyme sauce, and the diplomatico cake. WORDS TO THE WISE • Waits between courses can be a bit long and the corridor-like space has its flaws. The tables next to the door give the impression you're sitting in someone's hallway. And the nonsmoking section' s perimeters are a bit foggy .

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SOTTO SOPR A 6700 Boulevard St. Laurent (corner St. Zotique) Location: Little Italy Telephone: (514) 270-7792 Open: Lunch, noon-3 p.m., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.10:30 P.M., Monday to Friday, and 6 P.M.- 11 P.M., Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $7-$9; pastas, $14-$20; main courses, $20-$36; desserts, $7-$9

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THA!

THAI GRIL L SNAPSHOT • Yearning for something exotic? If spicy, sour, sweet, and salt y flavours ar e mingling i n your imagination , conside r heading over to Thai Grill. The expansive dining room is bustling most nights. Expect to se e young couples an d gregariou s twen tysomethings sippin g pin k cocktail s o n th e oriental-patterne d banquettes. The food, decorated with carved vegetables and flowers, is more than memorable, and unlike many of the city's Thai restaurants, Thai Grill doesn't stint on spice. Sad to say there is a downside: service here can be a problem . THE BIG PICTURE • The diners at Thai Grill maybe a s eclectic as the decor, but i f there's on e thing they all share, it's a fondness for the delicate interplay of flavours and the famous heat factor of Thai cuisine. One bite of som tarn, the papaya and dried-shrimp salad with lime juice and tamarind sauce, and you'll be heaven. It's all there: salty, sweet, sour, and... hot! This unassuming little salad—rated three peppers on the menu—packs a wallop. With your eyes watering, ear s ringing , and palm s sweating , thi s i s one sala d you won't soo n forget.

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Though gut-wrenching spice can be challenging for the tender of palate, in Thai cuisine it's not only correct, but also essential to many dishes. A second salad with duck, lemon grass, mint leaves, and lime juice (laab ped), would be delicious on its own. But red chili in the mix adds another dimension . Appetizers are ideal for sharing. To offset th e intensity of th e salads, opt fo r a few skewers of chicken satay. Served with a rich peanut sauce that works wonders at neutralizing and coating the taste buds, this classic is sure to satisfy . Another good choice is the mo d man pla , curried fish cakes seasoned with red curry paste and lime leaves. The cakes are thin and light, and their red-curry coating adds just enoug h spice to complement the subtle taste of the fish. Soups will set your taste buds afire once again. Tom yam soup, a citrusy broth full of shrimp and mushrooms, has a flavour tha t builds gradually . Unlike the immediat e hi t o f the salads , it be comes more complex and spicy with each mouthful. Even better is the tor n kha gai, made with chicken stock, coconut milk, chili peppers, lime, and a healthy dose of lemongrass. Add t o tha t tende r slice s of chicken, and yo u hav e a satisfying , light summer meal. Next time you catch cold, try torn kha gai instead of chicken soup. Main-course selections include chicken , beef, fish, and vegetarian dishes, along with a choice of curries and stir-fried noodles and rice. Chicken stir-fry with cashews and vegetables is pleasant, though hardly earth-shattering taste-wise. Far better is the chicken with red curry sauce enhanced with coconut milk. Though coconut milk may not be everyone's favourite, this dose is only there to add sweetness. In sharp contrast comes the green curry with shrimp. Though the re d curry gets its heat fro m drie d red chilies and it s flavour primarily from dried spices, green curry is made with fresh green chilies an d fres h gree n herb s includin g basil, lim e leaves, and lemon grass. Both curries are excellent. The other main courses sampled pale next to the curries. Stirfried beef with ginger is good, yet some of the beef strips can be tough and the ginger flavour could certainly be more biting. Sea bass with stir-frie d garli c spinach i s another letdown. Thoug h

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moist and delicate, the fish is bland, and the accompanying sauce adds only a strong, sweet, and off-putting fishy taste. Pad Thai lovers won't be disappointed. Considered by many as the signature dish of Thai cuisine, this steaming plate of stir-fried noodles includes shrimp, scrambled egg, browned bits of tofu, and chopped peanuts. Best of all is its moist texture and requisite hint of sweetness. To end the meal, try the authentic rice-based Thai desserts, the melon-laden frui t plate, or the delicious banana split made, Thaistyle, with coconut ic e cream and fried bananas . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Son Sak. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Willowy waitresses in skirt s slit high on the thigh saunter past towering potted palms to the bar framed b y wide-slatted, wooden Venetia n blinds. I n th e ope n kitchen, energetic young Thai chefs (including many women) are busy peeling, stir-frying, and plating all sorts of colourful dishes . WINE LIST • The wine list is on a par with—if not superior to— many of the city's finest restaurants. Yet don't expect the staf f t o come u p wit h an y suggestions. For grassy and lemon y flavours well suite d t o thi s styl e o f cuisine , tr y th e Sancerr e Chatea u Sancerre ($50). DON'T MISS • The green papaya salad, the duck salad, the chicken satay, the torn kha gai (soup), the pad Thai, the green and red curries, and the Thai-style banana split. WORDS TO THE WISE«If you want to experience Thai Grill at its best, conside r startin g your mea l with on e of those tall pin k cocktails. Not only will it take the edge off some of the heat, but it will also provide a much needed distraction from the halfhearte d service.

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THAI GRILL 5101 Boulevard St. Laurent (near Laurier) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 270-5566 Web site: www.thaigrill.ca Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M.; 5 P.M.-11 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $6.95-$8.95; main courses, $11.95-$24.95; desserts, $5-$7

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JAPANESE

TOKYO SUKIYAK I SNAPSHOT • Don't be turned of f by the obscure setting. Montreal's oldes t Japanes e restaurant, divided into 1 5 private tatami rooms, offers red lanterns, kimono-clad waitresses, and delicious, authentic Japanese food. The teriyaki and tempura dishes are not to be missed. THE BIG PICTURE • "This couldn' t b e the right place, " I say as we pull up to Tokyo Sukiyaki. "Oh yes it is," says a friend, whose last visit to this, Montreal's oldest Japanese restaurant (i t opened in 1961), was in the late sixties. From the outside, Tokyo Sukiyaki appears to be nothing more than an old house that has definitely seen better days. "I know it doesn't look like much," he says, with an air of excitement, "but behind those doors are bubbling streams filled with goldfish, little bridges, and great Japanese food." I don't believe any of it, and I insist tha t h e check things out befor e we park. A good sport, he runs in and emerges a few moments later, giggling an d claimin g that th e restauran t hasn' t change d a bit . And so we enter, the three of us—two adventurous, smiling men, and skeptical me.

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We're greeted by an elderly, kimono-clad lady who kindly asks us to remove our shoes. She then hands us plastic slippers—red for me , black for the men—and leads us down a mysterious corridor. Shuffling along, I soak up this curious scene. We are invited to enter our own private dining room, where we sit cross-legged on straw mats a t a round, black-lacquered table pervades the secluded little room. Though there are no other diners to be seen, voices make it plain that we are not alone . Peeking through th e soj i screens , I catc h a glimpse of a grou p o f welldressed twentysomethings and a family with small children. Obviously, these private rooms are ideal for dining with youngster s (I dare say they're also ideal for couples carryin g on discree t af fairs). Our waitress, our sol e contact wit h the outside world, enter s with menu s listin g classical Japanes e favourites, including suki yaki, shabu-shabu, teriyaki, yakitori, and sushi. When I ask about the shabu-shabu—a fondue-style specialty of beef and vegetables cooked in steaming broth—she tells me to have the beef teriyaki instead. I inquire about the cut of meat, but she hasn't a clue. She's equally confused about the composition of the yakitori sauce and the sushi. With a complete air of indifference, she eventually hands us a small card of sushi selections. I've seen gas station attendant s with more enthusiasm than this. We order the teriyaki, the yakitori, and the sushi. Each is the main dish of a five-course set menu. Rubbing m y hands i n m y steaming towe l (oshibori) , I' m stil l grumbling, predicting a bleak outcome to this meal, when the food arrives. We start with a cold salad of fine white rice noodles, carrot, and celery. It's lively and fresh—thre e simpl e ingredients brightened up with a marinated ginger , sake, vinegar, and sesam e oil vinaigrette. In the true Japanese spirit, we noisily slur p u p ever y last noodle. A clear soup, suimono, is the second dish of a traditional Jap anese menu, and Tokyo Sukiyaki's offering includes chicken with chopped green onion and scrambled egg. Served in the traditiona l lidded bowl, this simple broth is as fragrant as the most complex, ingredient-packed homemad e chicken soup.

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Next u p i s a grilled dish : yakimono . M y companions ar e served chicken yakitori, while I'm offere d a dish o f a half-dozen strips o f beef teriyaki. The chicken is textbook Japanese—mois t and just tinge d pin k a t the bone. The sweet yakitori marinade , made with soy, sugar, onion, and garlic, provides an exotic lift t o the grille d flavour o f the meat, especially with the deliciou s ho t chicken juices milling around in there. My companions devour their chicken in seconds, complaining that two small legs are hardly enough. Little do they know that the beef is even better. The homemade sauce, made with sake, mirin, and soy, is exceptionally tasty and worlds apart from those readymade sweet and oversalted teriyak i sauces served in many establishments around town. But it's the beef that steals the show: it's sublimely tender, glazed, crusty, and full flavoured . Dish after dis h prove s my initial impression s incorrect. Take the tempura, that ubiquitous Japanese specialty. Tokyo Sukiyaki's version is golden an d lacy, with the fried batter wrapped aroun d jumbo shrim p as well as sliced potato, carrot, green pepper, and green beans. Everything is light, piping hot, and not the least bit oily. And, instead of the soy sauce served in most Japanese restaurants, the dipping sauce here is the real deal: light soy with grated daikon and ginger. Two of our mai n course s are larger servings of the fantasti c yakitori an d teriyaki . The accompanying stir-fried vegetables — potato, onion, carrot, scallion—-are perfectly seasoned and pleasantly crisp. Our third main course is the sushi platter, which turns out to be the evening's onl y disappointment. A large, rectangular wooden tra y holds fou r cucumbe r mak i rolls , a flying-fis h ro e maki, and a wide assortment of nigiri sushi. Topped with fresh , high-quality tuna, octopus, salmon, red snapper, whitefish, shrimp, and crab , the rice , thoug h correctl y prepared (stick y but no t clammy), is underseasoned, providin g a dull base for the lovely fish. Compared to the creative sushi concoctions foun d in Montreal's modern sush i bars, this platter falls short . We finish up with excellent green tea, which is served with a wedge of ungarnished honeydew melon—an authentic and welcome close to our copious meal. On the way out, we're surprised

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to see our shoes laid out for us at the door. Little touches like these make th e evenin g memorable . S o does th e price . Ou r feas t fo r three, including sake and Japanese beer, came to only $130 . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Hiro Onda . DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The restaurant is divided int o 1 5 closed tatam i room s of various sizes. Dark-red lantern s lin e th e tops of the walls. Little red bridges crisscross a rock-lined strea m that meander s through th e roo m towards a small bar. Alas, the goldfish are long gone. WINE LIST • There i s one sak e available at $25, and abou t five wines priced between $20 and $33 . DON'T MISS • The tempura an d the beef and chicken teriyaki. WORDS TO THE WISE«If ever there was a case for not judgin g a book by its cover , it's Toky o Sukiyaki . The unusual deco r an d top-quality cuisin e are completely at odds with the obscure location and the somewhat seedy impression th e restaurant conveys from th e outside. I recommend tha t you pull on your best pair of socks and give it a try. TOKYO SUKIYAKI 7355 Avenue Mountain Sight s (near Jean Talon) Location: North of city centre Telephone: (514) 737-7245 Open: 5:30 P.M.- 11 P.M., Tuesday to Saturday, and 5:3 0 P.M. — 10:30 P.M., Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommende d Cards: Major cards Price Range: Starters, $5; main courses, $19-$20; dessert, $4.50; four-course dinner, $28

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$.$.$$..

CONTEMPORARY

TOOUEl SNAPSHOT • Take a look at his press clippings, and you'll get the impression tha t ToqueT s chef and co-owner , Normand Laprise, can d o n o wrong. And it's no t jus t abou t hi s personality o r his endless ques t fo r choic e ingredients . Th e ma n ca n reall y cook, and h e knows exactly how to showcase all those exquisit e food stuffs. Unde r the watchful eye of co-owner Christin e Lamarche , service has remaine d casua l as opposed t o stuffy— a refreshin g approach for such a high-end restaurant . There's nothing stodgy about the place; it's al l about the food. Here, you're in the hands of a world-class chef who is perfecting his craft, honing a unique style. Take note: In early 2004, Toqu6! Will be moving to a new location at the Centre CDP Capital at 1000 Place Jean-Paul Riopelle in Old Montreal. THE BIG PICTURE • How do you feel about milkweed pods with your tuna ? Or , for tha t matter , col d co d soup , se a parsley, or sauteed fairy-ring mushrooms? At Toque!, you never know quite what to expect. You just have to trust Normand Laprise, the indefatigable innovator, numer o uno chef in these parts. Chances are that whatever he creates will be fabulous. One of ToqueTs Christmas menus included th e most perfect classical terrine d e foi e gra s imaginable. A risotto tha t followed would be the pride of the best Italian restaurant. Strewn around the steaming mound of rice were vegetables, each ideally al dente and bursting wit h flavour . And this wa s in December , a mont h when most chefs gripe—with reason—about flavourless produce. He's also a curious one, this Laprise, travelling far and wide in search o f ingredients an d cookin g technique s t o th e benefi t of Montrealers who need journey no further than Rue St. Denis for a taste of something new. Dishes are often bathed in frothy sauces, no doub t influence d by a pilgrimage to Europe's restaurant "du moment"—El Bulli , north o f Barcelona . There ar e ofte n razo r

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clams o n th e menu , serve d with multicoloure d organi c cherry tomatoes line d u p insid e the long , rectangular shell. Why razor clams? Oh, just another discovery from an ingredient-seeking sojourn to the lies de la Madeleine. Milkweed pods , glasswort, wild purslane , wild spinach , and wild mesclun are featured on the plates, as are other plant s an d herbs from Francoi s Brouillard, an "artisanal forager" and frien d of Laprise's since the early 1990s. The chef's tastes now run to the sauvage, and so strong is this man's influence on our local dining scene that soon many aspiring chefs are sure to be doing the "wild thing." Though eye-catchin g ingredient s ar e adde d o r subtracte d from th e menu each season, the Laprise touch is always present. He's in no hurry to radically change his style; its evolution maybe slow, but i t isn't forced o r contrived. A tartare of tuna with avocado, chives, marinated radish, ginger, and tar o chips (als o prepared with duck) is a variation of an old Toque! favourite, salmon tartare, which has been on the menu since the restaurant's opening a decade ago. Signature dishes, like the gratin of Tournevent goat's cheese with spinach and Yukon Gold potatoes, and a simple salad made with the best mesclun, still hold an honoured place on ToqueTs menu. Of th e starters , who coul d resis t a taste of chille d co d sou p with lobster, wild purslane, and glasswort? The cod flavour is subtle an d wel l enhanced b y the swee t lobster mea t an d succulen t greens. The soup's creamy consistency and alabaster colour come from the addition of fresh whole milk. Little garlic croutons provide a pleasant crunch amidst th e various mouth feels . Thoug h this big bowl of cold soup arrives looking awfully bland—like the underbelly o f a whale—its well-matched flavours and varying textures turn out to be a revelation. Over the years, there has usually been a quail dish among the appetizers. Laprise's current "ode to the quail" features a roasted Cap St. Ignace quail with green asparagus, sauteed morels, shallots, wild mesclun, and a red wine vinegar reduction. Laprise is famous for hi s foie gras "a la Toque!"— prepare d following the inspiration of the moment, such as pan-fried with a white-bean puree.

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In th e past , Toque!'s starters hav e often outshon e th e overly generous main courses. Today, the main courses have been beyond reproach. Boilea u venison don e tw o ways—grilled uppe r filet and roasted haunch—is tender and flavourful enoug h to explain why beef is a rarity on ToqueTs menu. To top it off, it's served with beautiful accompaniments : woods y saut^e d fairy-rin g mushrooms, chubby roasted carrot halves, potent wilted baby spinach, and puffy potato gnocchi (at this restaurant, the word "accompaniment" seems demeaning, as each element is an intrinsic part of the whole). The assembly of pan-seared lies de la Madeleine sea scallops with glasswort, a quenelle of sweet pea puree, grilled portobello mushroom, an d a warm vinaigrette o f wild Abitibi blueberries with tarragon i s rather Dali-esque . The resilient textur e o f th e scallops might lead you to believe they're overcooked, but a few bites later you'll realize they're just meatier and less watery than most—perhaps the best scallops you've ever tasted. Also outstanding is the roaste d Bas du Fleuve saddle of lamb with cauliflowe r puree, sauteed western Canadian girolle mushrooms, coco beans, roasted fingerling potatoes, and baby pak choi from th e greenhous e of Mr. Daigneault. The meat is wonderful: pink, moist , delicious , an d melt-in-the-mout h tender—utterl y amazing. The beans, mushrooms, and pak choi are also superb, as are the potatoes. Desserts are a bit serious, lacking a spark of whimsy (too masculine?). A Mascarpone tart piled high with wild Quebec blueberries and served with ginger ice milk is good, if somewhat bland; it lacks a bit o f sweetnes s t o mak e it al l come to life . Chocolat e desserts—molten Manjar i cak e with a red wine reduction an d spices, and a caramelized chocolate brioche with creamy Manjari, clove ice milk, and port reduction—are delicious, but the spice/ chocolate/wine combination is best suited to a winter menu. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and co-owner Normand Laprise. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Toqu£! is a comfortable restaurant. The decor is eclectic. The long, narrow space is split into four

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colourful rooms . There's a large bar near the door for predinner cocktails. In summer, the small outdoo r terrac e is the ideal spot for your after-dinner Illy espresso. Dress up, if you like, but don' t expect to see many ties or flouncy dresses around you. WINE LIST • The wine list is made up o f an interesting arra y of international selections , and it has been increasing in size, quality, and complexity, year after year. DON'T MISS • The fish tartares, the quail starter, the foi e gras , the Boilea u venison, th e lie s d e la Madelein e scallops , an d th e Quebec lamb entries. WORDS TO THE WISE • Despite the fac t tha t Toque ! may appear to receive heaps of attention, this magical restaurant i s often taken for granted. Some say they're bored with the place or boast that they've alread y "done it. " I f you love fin e foo d an d haven' t been lately, consider a return visit, for every meal offers somethin g you haven't experience d before. Take note: At the new premises, Toque! will be serving lunch. TOQUE! 3842 Rue St. Denis (near Roy), and a s of January 2004, Centre CDP Capital at 1000 Place Jean-Paul Riopelle in Old Montreal Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 499-2084 Web site: www.restaurant-toque.co m Open: 5:30 P.M.-10:30 P.M., Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Cards: Major cards (and Interac) Price range: Starters, S9-$23; main courses, $26-$42; desserts, $11-$12.

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'$ '$ S

CONTEMPORARY/JAPANESE

TREEHOUSE SNAPSHOT • The man behind the hype surrounding Treehouse, one of the city's most exciting restaurants, is Tri Du, a chef revered for hi s form-equals-substanc e inventions . Usin g traditional Japanese cuisine as a starting point, he relies on the freshest local and imported ingredients t o fue l hi s seemingly endless imagination . To date, he has won over the mos t discernin g fashionistas , who collectively rave about Treehouse, not only for the inventive sushi and sashimi , but als o for such darin g concoctions a s sea urchin tempura, miso-marinated black cod, and oysters that are suitably named "Tri-efeller" THE BIG PICTURE • I arrive on a Saturday night with three serious—and ravenous—sush i aficionados , none of whom hav e sampled chef Tri's creations, but al l of whom know him by reputation. Riding the elevator t o th e restaurant's second-floo r location, our grou p is quietly giddy. The excitement i s palpable. We step ou t int o th e bar are a and ar e welcomed by an Amazonian hostess an d severa l cute waiters, everyon e clad head-to-to e i n black. Facing the panopl y o f appetizers , sushi, sashimi, new-styl e sashimi, maki , tempura, an d hous e specialties, we turn t o ou r waiter for guidance. He suggests the chef's omakase tasting menu, which begins with a seaweed salad. No simple salad, this mound of julienned daikon, carrot, seaweed, and cucumber is laced with a sweet ginger vinaigrette, sprinkled with frie d potato , an d garnished with a blue pansy. It's the ideal palate cleanser for the serious taste sensations to come. The main meal starts with a bang. We're offered tw o plates of sashimi—one of salmon, the othe r o f lightly grille d (new-styl e sashimi) Hawaiian opa. Both are sensational, but I'd give the opa, with it s char-grilled accent , top marks . A well-balanced ponz u sauce add s spic e to the here-it's-cooked/here-it-isn' t paper-thi n

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slices. We devour both plates of fish in seconds, locking chopstick s over every last melting morsel. Served alon g wit h th e sashim i ar e oyster s "Tri-efeller." Thi s take on the classic oysters Rockefeller consists of Japanese oysters with spinach , shallots , an d bechame l sauce . They're quit e nice , but they might have been out of this world had the blanket of bdchamel been velvety as opposed to curdled. Two more fish courses follow: black cod and Chilean sea bass marinated i n miso, and grilled tuna and Californian stripe d bass tataki. Here the fish is ideally cooked, easily breaking into succulent chunks grilled just beyond translucency. The cod and bass retain thei r distinc t flavour s whil e th e mis o marinad e enhance s without overwhelming. Initially, I prefer the cod, then the bass. In the end, there's no denying both are outstanding. The tatak i cours e i s different, fo r her e th e sauc e command s centre stage. At first it seems a shame to mask such high-qualit y fish with a thick sauce . After a few bites, however, one become s accustomed t o the spic y and slightl y sweet flavour and smoot h mouth feel , which enables th e tun a an d stripe d bas s flavours t o shine through. It's an outstanding combination , exploitin g fish to its fullest. Don' t bother inquirin g abou t the compositio n o f the sauce; apparently, it's a well-guarded secret (no doubt residing in the sam e vault a s the recipe s for Coca-Col a an d th e Colonel' s seven herbs and spices). After such highs, there are bound to be a few lows. A serving of grilled squid with basil offers a n equal number of tender morsel s and rubber y ones—a shame , sinc e th e basil-squi d pairin g is lovely. Beef tartare, served atop a bowl of ice, is spicy but other wise bland. The hand-minced bee f i s topped wit h blac k flying fish roe, which provides a welcome bit of crunch, but little in the way of flavour. Two riceless sushi mak i roll s ar e als o lacking . The makis — Tri's Deluxe , with smoke d salmon , cucumber , black caviar, and Alaskan crab; and the Eye of the Dragon, with fresh salmon, squid, flying-fish roe , and shiso—are a feat of engineering. The colourful ingredient s ar e encased in tempura and flash-fried , resultin g in a light, crispy blanket around a cold roll. Both rolls are on the

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dry side; the Tri Deluxe roll is salty, and its pronounced smokiness isn't all that pleasant . An impressiv e an d generou s sush i platte r include s pristin e salmon an d tuna sashimi , halibut an d re d snapper nigir i sushi, and kille r combinatio n makis . The white-on-white nigiri sushi looks fantastic, and the fresh fish melts on the tongue. Too bad the rice doesn't liv e up to its promise, as it's underseasoned an d just this side of overcooked. The rainbow maki and spide r rainbow maki—the spide r bein g soft-shel l crab—offe r a n intriguin g combination o f flavours and textures. In complet e contrast t o th e usua l sushi-restauran t desserts , Treehouse offers a welcome surprise: chocolate souffle. Though not the towerin g French variety, this souffle ha s the righ t pudding like centre, light texture, and dense chocolate flavour. Service is attentive and well-paced. One wishes, however, that the waiter s were better informe d about th e compositio n o f the dishes and sauces. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Tri Du. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The large, square room was obviously conceived as office space, but it's now filled with dark furniture and the requisite winding sush i bar topped with spotlights . Having imagined Chef Tri's lair as something more exotic (considering the name , I had visions o f a jungle decor, replete with bamboo, toucans , and swinging monkeys), this oh-so-common sushi bar is a bit of a letdown. WINE LIST • There are eight varieties of sake, priced between $30 and $90. There's also an extensive choice of mainly French and Californian wines, priced between $32 and $550 (Chateau MoutonRothschild). DON'T MISS • The new-style sashimi, the black cod and Chilean sea bass marinate d i n miso , th e grille d tun a an d Californian striped bass tataki, and the sushi.

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WORDS TO THE WISE • No doub t abou t it , Treehous e i s an exciting dining destination wit h an eye to the future. The herd instinct isn't always a reliable indicator of quality, but che f Tri's legions of devotees seem to be on to something good . TREEHOUSE 4120 Rue Ste. Catherine West (near Greene) Location: Westmount/NDG Telephone: (514) 932-7873 Web site: www.kaizensushibar.com Open: 5:30 P.M.- 10:30 P.M. , Sunday, Tuesday, and Wednesday, and 5:30 p.M.-midnight, Thursday to Saturday Wheelchair access : Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: Major cards Price range: Starters, $6-$17.50; main courses, $14-$28; desserts, $8-$11.95; omakase tasting menus, $65, $85, and $120

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RUSSIAN

TROIKA SNAPSHOT • When you say "Russian restaurant" to a Montrealer, most think of the Troika. In business for ove r 40 years, this Rue Crescent jewel, beloved fo r its festive ambience fuelled b y vodka, tableside musicians , an d chicke n Kiev , has neve r looked better . The meal begins with a shot of vodka, followed by classic czarist fare lik e beef Stroganof f an d strawberrie s Romanof f served b y waiters sporting embroidered tunics . Some say it's all so predictable. So what; it works. This place has ambience to burn. THE BIG PICTURE«The Troika is a rarity on the Montreal dining scene : a no-holds-barred luxur y restaurant . On e ca n easily imagine Nureyev holding court at the bar, nibbling zakuska while imbibing shots of Stolichnaya.

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The menu is equally lavish. Russian haute cuisine may sound like a stretch (Russian dishes are usually considered comfort food), but bear in mind that the Troika's menu is Franco-Russe—more Nicholas tha n Nikita , more Tchaikovsk y tha n Trotsky , and cer tainly more Pavlova than Putin. To launch the evening on the right—red-booted—foot, star t with a shot of ice-cold vodka. From a list of 1 6 varieties, favourites include Kubanskay a (plain) , Okhotnichy (wit h berries an d herbs), Limonnaya (with lemon), and , m y favourite, Zubrowka (with Bison grass). Lift th e heavy glass, shout "Nazdorovie!" (To your health!), and belt it back. Aaahhh! The natural progression fro m her e would be caviar, the most prestigious item a t any Russian feast. Th e Troika takes its caviar seriously, offering a separate menu with Sevruga (good for beginners), Ossetra (the choice of connoisseurs on a budget), and Beluga (for die-hard aficionados and dot-corn millionaires). I f fish eggs are a must, there' s als o the les s costl y re d cavia r (salmo n roe) , served in individual portions or for two with smoked salmon and blini. A meal at the Troika shows us why the next big trend on th e restaurant scene is the return o f the classics. So overwhelmingly Russian is this setting that even standard items like rack of lamb, foie gras, and Dover sole somehow taste Russian! Chef Jerome Boully excels at elaborating traditional appetiz ers such as piroshki, pelmini, and that perennial Slavic favourite, borsht. The Troika's borsht is a winner. Filled with julienned beet, cabbage, onion, carrot, and served with a squiggle of sour cream and bambushki (donut-lik e garli c bread), this heart y vegetable soup is the ideal showcase for late-summer produce . Piroshki, the famous meat-filled pastries, are made here with spicy ground bee f baked in a light bread dough a s opposed th e usual flaky pastry. They're entirely different, yet still very good— certainly les s rich—an d wel l accompanie d b y a moun d o f sauteed red cabbage. If you crossed an Italian tortellini with a Japanese gyoza dumpling, you'd end up with something simila r to the Siberian meat dumpling, pelmini. Though traditionally served with plain white

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vinegar, pelrnini at the Troik a are enhanced wit h a crystal-clear duck consomme. Superb! Not all the dumplings are this successful, however . Th e lobste r raviol i i s a bit much , fo r th e stron g flavour of the lobster filling seems at odds with its powerful saffron crea m sauce, which is also too cloying. Those Russia n warhorses, chicken Kie v an d bee f Stroganoff , are given the royal treatment at the Troika. Chicken Kiev is one of those dishes that suffers from its celebrity. Fortunately, the Troika's version put s al l those frozen , supermarke t varietie s t o shame . Beautifully presente d with one of those paper frills coverin g the wing bone, the chicken is succulent and the garlic butter provides an added boost of moisture and flavour. Side dishes include sugar snap peas, baby carrots, and rice pilaf covered with stewed tomatoes and peppers . Beef Stroganoff is another dis h that seems to have been con demned t o airlin e tray s an d cafeteri a stea m tables . Again, chef Boully has pulled out al l the stops: the tender pieces of beef filet are seared on all sides, rolled around a peppery cream sauce, and spooned ove r a mound o f egg noodles. Also not t o be missed is the filet of wild boar. Served with a classic French sauce poivrade, the boa r i s toothsome an d ful l flavoured—por k a t it s best. Accompaniments includ e carrots , suga r sna p peas, and delicate , puffed pomme s dauphine . Desserts have quite a history i n Russia , and th e Troik a gives them thei r du e (foo d trivi a fact : th e greates t pastry che f o f all time, Antoine Careme, served as chef to Cza r Alexander I). The palette o f Troik a dessert s include s a n intens e saffro n crem e brulee, the Delice de Pushkin ( a delicious chocolate mousse cake), and a tear-shaped chocolate shel l fille d wit h pralin e ic e cream listed as the Siberian Tear Drop. My favourite dessert is the fraise s Romanoff, which consists of curacao-soaked strawberries, vanillabean ic e cream, and Chantill y cream sprinkle d wit h toaste d al monds. Not to be missed is the Russian tea from a samovar, served in silver-handled glasses. Service is yet another of this restaurant's strengths. The waiters are friendly and engaging, know their menu inside out, and hesitate only when recommending wine.

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A word about th e musicians . Unlike many restaurant enter tainers who invade and hover, Sergei and Sergei take requests and know when to move on. With Sergei I on the violin and Sergei II on the guitar breaking into song every so often, you're in for some fine entertainment . There' s nothing lik e a sad Russian folk son g or a feverish rendition o f a czardas to get the taste buds tingling . IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Jerome Boully. DECOR DRESS, AMBIENCE • With mirrored walls, revolutionred banquettes , swirlin g tapestr y chairs , silve r samovars , and a charming painting of a Moscow winter scene, the decor is elegant, verging on opulent—call it "nouveau Czar." Add to that waiters sporting embroidere d tunics , a hostess straigh t ou t o f a James Bond movie, and live music, and you have an ambience that reminds u s that dinin g ou t ca n stil l b e a n experience . All that's missing is an ice sculpture o f the Winter Palace . WINE LIST • The wine list i s a bit short , but th e food-friendly French selection s ar e interesting an d fairl y priced . Fo r purists , vodka is available for $96 to $185 per bottle. DON'T MISS • The piroshki, the pelmini, the borsht, the chicken Kiev, the beef Stroganoff, and the Russian tea. WORDS TO THE WISE • The inevitable question tha t pop s u p when choosin g a restaurant i s whether you'r e i n th e moo d fo r French, Italian, Chinese, or Japanese. But not many of us are saying, "Let's do Russian!"—and that's a shame. Food this good in surroundings this glamorous offer s on e of the most memorabl e nights out in the city.

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TROIKA 2171 Rue Crescent (near Sherbrooke) Location: Downtow n Telephone: (514) 849-9333 Open: Lunch, noon-2:30 P.M., Wednesday to Friday; dinner, 5 P.M.-11 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $6.50-$18.50; caviar, $35-$410; main courses, $20.75-$43.50; desserts, $7-$13.50; tasting menu, $73

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VEGERA SNAPSHOT« Fish is the raison d'etre of all the city' s top Greek restaurants, and Vegera follows suit. Owner Bill Christopoulos is the former manager of Restaurant La Mer, and he's one of the few restaurateurs in Montreal who knows how, when, and where to get the freshest specimens . Prices are steeper than one would expect in this neighbourhood, but the quality of ingredients is firstrate. The men u list s familia r Gree k favourites, including grilled fish and shellfis h sol d b y the pound (man y of the bigger fish are prepared for two or three). There's a daily table d'h6te for budgetconscious diners . On top o f that, there's free valet parking and a 20-seat terrace in summer. THE BIG PICTURE • To best judg e a restaurant , begi n wit h something simpl e t o gag e the qualit y of ingredients . At Vegera, order a plate of olives. You'll receive purple-red Kalamatas that are firm but tender, perfectly seasoned (not too salty or chemical tasting), and sittin g in a pool o f first-rat e oliv e oil. Scoo p them u p one after another and savour their full, fruity flavour, then soak up every last drop of oil with a slice of grilled bread.

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Vegera's waiters claim thei r appetizer s ar e larg e enough fo r sharing. You might disagree. Though th e portions ar e generous, with cookin g this good th e foo d i s bound t o vanis h i n recor d time. Three could polish off four appetizers with ease. There's n o avoidin g frie d o r grille d calamar i i n Montreal' s Greek and Italian restaurants. Vegera's version is hard to pass up, as the menu promises calamari "cooked to perfection." Many chefs tend to coa t the rings an d spider s in a thick layer of deep-fried batter that overwhelms the gentle flavour of the squid. Not here. These calamari are ever so lightly breaded and pan-fried. Best of all, the grease-free rings are cut thicker than most and have a silky texture and fresh taste. The grilled vegetables with goat's cheese are also a cut above. The vegetables—oyster mushrooms , zucchini , re d pepper, and eggplant—are tender an d grille d jus t so, not lim p an d charre d like the usual suspects. The addition o f goat's chees e is inspired, though th e variety of cheese could be more assertive. In sharp contrast is the tzatziki served with slices of fried zucchini and eggplant. To impart a bit of their own flavour, the vegetables could be sliced thicker. Nonetheless, the delicious tzatziki, filled with plent y of dill, garlic, and choppe d cucumber , offer s one potent mouthful after another . Those willing to splurge should opt for the "exceptional quality" grilled shrimp (fo r $48 a pound, about $5 a pop, they should be!). Finally, after s o many tasteless shrimp , here are shrimp that actually taste like shrimp. These jumbo specimens are excellent: meaty, moist, slightly resilient—worth every penny. Main courses include grilled striped sea bass (loup de mer, or Mediterranean sea bass) flown in from Greece, and grilled swordfish steak. The bass, for two, arrives at the table boned and is carefully portione d ou t b y the waiter. Soft an d delicate , an d wit h a gentle fresh taste enhanced by chopped oregano, lemon, olive oil, and capers, this filet is nothing short o f superb. The swordfish is completely different—thick, meaty , juicy, with a lovely browned crust—yet equal in quality and as skilfully cooked as the bass. Desserts are hard to contemplate afte r suc h a feast, especially honey-soaked Gree k desserts. A large portion o f Gree k yogourt

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topped with honey and preserved cherries is as thick and rich as New York cheesecake . A complimentary bow l o f loukoumade s (deep-fried balls of dough served with honey) are good, but afte r such a copious meal, few could probably manage more than a taste. Service strike s a nic e balance betwee n friendl y and profes sional. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Peter Christopolous . DECOR, DRESS , AMBIENCE • The squar e spac e i s relatively small—only 55 seats—and elegantl y decorated wit h a blue-lit, stainless steel-toppe d bar , a smal l ope n kitchen , brigh t yello w walls, and high ceilings. The low lights are enhanced by flickering votive candles, and lusty Greek music adds an air of sophistica tion and romance to the room. WINE LIST«Vegera's wine list includes a fine selection of Greek, Italian, French, and California n wine s priced betwee n $2 6 and S85. Highly recommende d i s the flowery , fish-friendl y Gree k white wine Chateau Nico Lazaridis, fairly priced at $45. DON'T MISS • The olives , the tzatziki , the calamari , the fres h shrimp, and the grilled fish. WORDS TO THE WISE • There's n o denyin g tha t you'l l find some o f the sam e sunny Mediterranea n flavours here as in th e better-known Gree k restaurants. Yet what Vegera offers tha t you won't find in such establishments i s a calm and romantic setting, the ideal place for sharing, be it a plate of calamari cooked to perfection, or fresh se a bass grilled for two.

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VEGERA

228 Rue Bernard West (near Jeanne Mance) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 490-4222 Open: 5 p.m.-11 p.m., Tuesday to Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $5-$16; main courses, $16-$40; desserts, $3.50-$8

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VERSES SNAPSHOT • Boutique-hotel restaurant s ar e doing bris k busi ness these days. The Nelligan's glamorous restaurant Verses is reaping the benefits, quickly becoming a hot spo t fo r high-spirite d locals an d tourists . Th e men u feature s the sor t o f streamline d Quebec cuisine you'll find in most of the city's top trendy restaurants. Description s ar e brief, bu t ingredient s suc h a s foie gras , Angus beef, Brome Lake cluck, and Arcti c char speak for themselves. Flavour combinations rang e from classi c to unusual, and the overriding style follows the swirled balsamic vinegar/ stacked layers/spiky plate presentation school . THE BIG PICTURE • Despite Montreal's fast and furious reputa tion as the party capital of Canada, set foot in one of its top hotels and you'll find yourself tiptoeing around a marble lobby, nodding to uniformed clerks, and wishing you had sported your best suit and fanciest footwear. But walk into Hotel Nelligan and you'll fee l like you're in Montreal: smoker s and coffe e drinker s crowd th e vestibule and lobby, and the ba r is filled with the cocktail sippin' cinq-a-sept crowd . Diners willing to partake in the jovial ambience might want to start off the evening with one such cocktail, like the ginger Mar-

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tini or the "Nelligan," a mind-altering combination o f rum, Triple Sec, and frui t juices. The drinks arrive in frosted cocktail shakers and ar e poured int o birdbath-sized Martini glasses. Spiked with caramelized ginger, the ginger Martini is as potent and refreshin g as pickled sush i ginger, and th e Nelliga n is as invigorating a s a Caribbean vacation . The food is sure to arriv e just as you're contemplating a second round. When available, start with the Meaux mustard soup. Mustard sou p i s a rarit y o n Montrea l menus , an d thi s on e is topped off with a handful of shrimp and mussels. Meaux mustard is sweeter than its hot counterpart from Dijon , and when used to make soup, it resembles one of those swell French sauces served with rabbit and pork. Every spoonful is a delight, and the seafood adds a welcome resilient texture. Texture seem s to be the inspiratio n behin d th e tomato consomme. The clear yellow liquid, in true cold consomm^ form, arrives lightly jelled. Its generic vegetable taste, however, may leave you questioning its tomato descriptor. Beef tartar e i s commonly serve d minced o r slice d whisper thin in carpaccio form. The Angus beef tartare at Verses consists of thick strips of raw meat mixed with onion s and caper s sandwiched between three layers of croutons. Every bite is a treat; the beef has a soft and seductive mouth feel , and the flavour is subtle. Delicious for exactly the same reasons is a plate of marinated salmon. Three languettes of salmon are arranged around a tower of shredded-sweet-potato galettes layered with diced salmon combined with a light sour crea m dressing and dill. Placed between the salmo n strip s ar e tiny hard-boiled quail' s egg s topped wit h salmon roe. It's all quite feminine and delicate—very nice. The only dud fro m th e list of starters is a plate of grilled vegetables layered with warm goat's cheese. Not only does the goat' s cheese lack oomph, but the grilled vegetables are practically tasteless. Main courses show the occasiona l flash of brilliance. A duck magret served with ginger and orang e sauce is masterfully prepared—ideally pink inside and crisp-skinned on the outside, with all the fat rendered—and served with superb saut£ed red cabbage laced with cinnamon.

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Another standou t i s the breas t o f guine a he n wit h mapl e syrup. When properly roasted, this elegant fowl' s fles h i s velvety and moist—exactly the way it is here. Add to that a pool of mapleenhanced sauce and a beggar's purse rilled with wild rice mixed with rice pilaf, and you have Verses's cuisine at its best. In this den of indulgence, you'll probably find yourself yearning for something decadent to finish off the meal. Too bad everything sounds better than it tastes. The molten chocolate cake with coffee ic e cream is all chocolate sauce and squidg y cake, but th e intensity of flavour leave s plenty to be desired. The walnut cake has an appealing moist texture and not much else, and its accompanying pistachio ice cream merely tastes of cream. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Yann Turcotte. DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • This dimly lit old/modern space is both romantic and festive, with hand-holding couples seated in curved red banquettes along one side of the room, and large tables filled with groups of attractive, Champagne-drinking revelers on the other. WINE LIST • Although short fo r suc h a chi-chi establishment , Verses's wine list is interesting and affordable, wit h a good selection of bottles under $50. There's also a cocktail menu filled with wicked Martinis and other alcoholic concoctions . DON'T MISS • The cocktails, the mustard soup , the guinea hen, and the duck magret. WORDS TO THE WISE • I'd recommend Verses for those in need of a night o f indulgence (and at clos e to $10 0 per perso n wit h wine and a cocktail, indulge you will). The bar selections are good fun an d the kitchen shows plenty of talent. The novelty and beauty of th e settin g is alluring, even if this restaurant—lik e so many hotel restaurants—lacks a distinct style.

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VERSES 100 Rue St. Paul (corner St. Sulpice, in the Hotel Nelligan) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514) 788-4000 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.- 10:30 P.M., Sunday and Wednesday, and 5:3 0 P.M.11 P.M., Thursday to Saturday Wheelchair access : No Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major card s Price range: Starters, $6-$20; main courses, $23-$35; desserts, $7-$10

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ZEN SNAPSHOT • Zen offers an eye-popping selection of Chinese and Szechwan favourite s in on e o f th e city' s sleekes t contemporar y dining rooms. The prix fixe menu includes a wide choice of allyou-can-eat hors d'oeuvre s and main-course dishes . The crispy duck is one of the best versions of this classic to be found in Montreal. Those up fo r spicy dishes, however, may be disappointed . THE BIG PICTURE • My first taste of Szechwan cuisine was at Zen in the early nineties. A good friend o f mine worked upstairs, in the Four Seasons Hotel, and for half price (about $10 each) we would eat our way through the menu about three times a month. Though never a fan of Chinese buffets o r dim sum gorge-fests , I cherished these meals. Despite a n attemp t t o alte r th e restaurant' s formul a i n th e mid-nineties, the menu at Zen isn't all that different fro m the one offered a decade ago. Prices are still reasonable: $29 for an unlimited (al l you can eat) choice of hors d'oeuvre s and main-course dishes.

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Ordering i s a no-brainer a t Zen ; you simpl y pic k whateve r sounds appetizing. Mistakes won't se t you back a penny. Hot and sour soup has the correct brilliance and syrupy consistency, and is indeed very hot. Sweet-corn soup with chicken provides anothe r soothing start to a meal. Within minute s of the soup bowls being cleared, dish afte r dis h o f appetizers begin to appear. Standouts are mois t barbecue d satay chicken brochette s wit h a terrific chunky peanut sauce, and piping-hot, cris p chicken spring rolls. Everything else falls somewha t short. The steame d shrim p di m sum are wrapped in a thick, gummy casing, and the pork Hunan dumplings, which arrive cold and clammy, are served with an insipid peanut sauce . The crispy , aromati c Szechwa n duc k make s u p fo r th e kitchen's shortcomings . A boneless, flattened, and frie d piec e of duck is presented on a dinner plate before being shredded by the waiter int o manageable strips. It's serve d with a steamer basket filled with thin crepes , side dishes of sliced scallion and cucumber, and a sweet, thick hoisin sauce . The ritua l is to fill a crepe with the ingredients, top it with sauce, and form it into a roll. Main dishes can be a letdown. Thos e marked "spicy" tend to be bland. And few, save for the saut^ed filet of chicken with black pepper and crisp y spinach served on a sizzle platter, arrive hot. Sesame-orange beef, which used to be considered one of the best items o n thi s menu , lack s th e requisit e hea t an d an y orange flavour. Another favourite, the General Tao's chicken, is devoid of heat as well as the sweetnes s of the Szechwa n classic. A dish de scribed on the menu as both spic y and a house specialty, Szechwan chicken, is a dull concoctio n o f warm stir-fried chicken, al dente re d an d gree n peppers , an d littl e else . Even the simpl e dishes, Szechwan green beans and steamed rice , fall short in th e spice and temperature department. One cours e where a bit o f chil l i s welcome i s dessert. Zen' s lemon sorbet is sweet, tart, arid delicious. A large profiterole fille d with cappuccino ice cream, is smothered i n a heavenly chocolate sauce. IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Simon Shum.

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DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • With it s chrom e an d blac k leather furniture , glass-topped bar , wide re d pillars , an d bol d yellow and blue walls, Zen is one of the most stunning contem porary dining rooms in the city. But when it comes to ambience , there appear s to be no middle ground : it' s eithe r bustling when packed, or dreary when half empty. WINE LIST • There is one kind of sake, 15 red wines, and 20 white wines (French , Californian, and Italian ) priced between $3 0 and $56. DON'T MISS • The hot and sour soup, the sweet-corn soup, the crispy duck, and the desserts. WORDS TO THE WISE • Although service at Zen is gracious and efficient, there's obviously a problem getting the food to the table while it i s still satisfyingly hot—a n absolut e mus t fo r frie d an d steamed food . I n the past, everythin g appeare d to be cooked t o order. Today one thing is clear: We need a little more heat coming out o f this kitchen i n more ways than one. Don't hesitate to request spicier food, if that is your preference. ZEN 1050 Rue Sherbrooke West (corner Peel, in the Hotel Omni ) Location: Downtow n Telephone: (514) 499-0801 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.-10 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended; essential on weekends Cards: Major card s Price range: Table d'hdte lunch menu , $14.95-$26; all-youcan-eat dinner menu, $29; weekend brunch, $19

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CASUAL DININ G

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ALEP MIDDLE EASTERN

Tired of the usual Italian, French, Chinese, Greek, and Japanese fare? I f grilled meats smothered in garlic and spices, lemon- an d cumin-laced hummus , an d dessert s sprinkle d with ros e water sound appetizing , then conside r Alep . Despite it s unglamorous location on a busy strip of Jean Talon east of St. Laurent, Alep is regarded a s one of the best an d mos t authenti c Middl e Eastern restaurants in town. The extensive menu includes salads, hot and cold mazza (appetizers), meat and fish entries, and desserts. The atmosphere i s relaxed, dress i s casual, and th e Arabian Nights flavours more than fulfill th e need for something new. Favourite dishes: The hummus and metabal, the hot mazza, the grilled waEeye, the atayef, and the tisane du staff . ALEP 199 Rue Jean Talon East (near de Gaspe) Location: North of city centre Telephone: (514) 270-6396 Open: 5 P.M.-11 P.M., Tuesday to Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Price range: Starters, $3.25-$12.75; main courses, $9.25-$19.75; desserts, $3-$4

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AU BISTR O GOURMET FRENCH

Serving bistro far e gussied up to the hilt, this is a restaurant that merits it s name. Wildly popular wit h downtow n local s an d th e business crowd, Au Bistro Gourmet offer s delicious , reasonably priced food ranging from classi c French to upscale nouvelle cuisine. There's a short wine list to match. Take note, however, that the fancie r satellite operation, Au Bistro Gourmet 2 , located o n Rue St. Denis, doesn't quite live up to the quality—or share the atmosphere—of the maison mere. Favourite dishes: Duck confit salad , bavette aux echalottes, rack of lamb, pork chop with chestnuts, salmon with white wine sauce, French apple tart, and creme caramel. AU BISTRO GOURMET Two locations: 2100 Rue St. Mathieu (corner de Maisonneuve) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 846-1553 Web site: www.aubistrogourmet.com and 4007 Rue St. Denis (corner Duluth) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 844-0555 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-3:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.—10 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Price range: Table d'hote lunch menu, $10.50-$! 1.50; table d'hdte dinner menu, $15.95-$28.95; desserts, $4.50-$6

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AU PETI T EXTR A BISTRO

Lunch at Au Petit Extra is the perfect antidote to a bleak winte r afternoon. Dinne r i s like a big party. Packed t o th e rafter s wit h jovial regulars, this expansive neighbourhood bistr o is remarkably warm and friendly. Waits for tables can be long, so order a glass of wine and hang out at the bar with everyone else. The wine list offers a good selection of affordable bottles with daily specials listed on the blackboards around the room. Though the location is a little off the beaten track, this is the ideal place for out-of-towner s to experience a taste of French Montreal. Favourite dishes: Terrine, leg of lamb, salmon, duck confit, an d bavette. AU PETIT EXTRA 1690 Rue Ontario Eas t (corner Papineau) Location: East of city centre Telephone: (514) 527-5552 Web site: www.au-liondor-montreal.co m Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.-10 P.M., Monday to Wednesday, 6 P.M.-10:30 P.M., Thursday to Saturday, and 5:3 0 P.M.-9:30 P.M., Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Price range: Starters, $5-$10; main courses (lunch), $10-$14, main courses (dinner), $15.75-$22 (main courses include entree and coffee) ; desserts , $4.50

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BEAUTY S DINER

Montrealers have been flocking to Beauty's, an institution i f ever there was one, since 1953. Owner Hymie Sckolnick is always there to greet you with a "How ar e you, dahling?" Beauty's is the place where Roots-clad couples , yuppies, and familie s converg e to ea t breakfast al l da y long—otherwise know n a s "branching." And nobody does it better than Beauty's. If the decor is strictly American Graffiti, th e far e i s a n homag e to th e city' s best feel-goo d food: the bagel! One word of advice: Beware the weekend crunc h (they don't take reservations). Favourite dishes: Beauty's special, which comprise s a Montrea l bagel, cream cheese , and Nov a Scotia smoked salmon (lox) ; and mishmash omelet , spinac h salad, homemade banan a bread, an d velvety Tofutti. BEAUTY'S 93 Boulevard Mont Royal West (corner St. Urbain) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 849-8883 Open: 7A.M.- 4 P.M., Monday to Friday , 7 A.M.-5 P.M., Saturday, and 8 A.M.-5 P.M., Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Not accepted Price range: Breakfast, $10-$15

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BISTRO O N THE AVENU E BISTRO

Arguably Westmount' s mos t popula r restaurant , thi s Avenu e Greene eatery offers inexpensive, creative comfort food in a relaxed neighbourhood setting . There's a definite "scene" here. The crowd consists primarily of middle-aged couple s with stylis h haircuts , expensive sweaters, understated jewelry , and designe r handbags . Though the steak frites and daily specials rise above standard fare , there's no doub t tha t thi s restaurant's mai n dra w is the friendl y atmosphere an d the stellar service. Reservations are essential. Favourite dishes: Th e stea k frites ; otherwise , ski p th e printe d menu and g o for one of the 1 4 daily specials. BISTRO ON THE AVENUE 1362 Avenue Greene (near Sherbrooke) Location: Westmount/NDG Telephone: (514 ) 939-6451 Web site: www.bistroontheavenue.co m Open: 11:3 0 A.M.-10:30 P:M. , Monday to Saturday, and 10:3 0 A.M.-10 P.M., Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Price range: Starters, $4.50-$9.95; main courses, $9.95-$22; desserts, $3.75-$5.25

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CAFE INTERNATIONAL ITALIAN

Although its name implies a restaurant with a world-food menu , Cafe International i s strictly Italian, with an a la carte selection of pastas and pizzas and daily specials including market-fresh salads, risottos, and mea t an d fis h dishes . The food is simple and deli cious, and the price-to-quality ratio is excellent. There are also at least a dozen re d an d whit e wine s offere d b y the glass . There' s nothing fanc y abou t th e decor , but there' s alway s plent y o f at mosphere a t thi s Littl e Ital y bistro , especiall y in summertime , when tables spill out onto the sidewalk of Boulevard St. Laurent. At lunch thes e outdoo r seat s fil l u p quickl y with loca l resident s and the television crowd from the Quatre Saisons/CFCF building up the street. Favourite dishes: Pizza, sandwiches, and daily specials, which include two pastas, risottos, and various meat, fish, and veal dishes. CAFE INTERNATIONAL 6714 Boulevard St. Laurent (near St. Zotique) Location: Little Italy Telephone: (514) 495-0067 Web site: www.cafeinternational.ca Open: Lunch, 11 A.M.-3 P.M.; dinner, 6 P.M.-10 P.M., daily Wheelchair access : No Reservations: Recommended Price range: A la carte menu items, $7.95-$14.95; table d'hot e menu, $7.95-$17.95

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CAFE MELIE S CONTEMPORARY

Much has changed at this ultramodern restauran t locate d in ExCentris, Montreal's most luxurious independent cinem a and multimedia complex, since it opened in June 1999. Chef Lindsay Petit has transformed the simple menu, favourin g creativ e bistro far e made wit h th e fines t loca l ingredients . Open fro m mornin g t o night, Cafe Melies is also a good choice for breakfast, brunch, or a late-afternoon snack . The bar is often filled with moviegoers having a cocktail before viewing the latest foreign film. Ask for a table next to the windows, one o f the Main's primo people-watchin g sites. Or, better yet, take a look at who is eating at the table next to yours, for Caf e Melie s i s known a s a popular dra w for international celebrities, politicians, artists , and off-duty chefs. Service is friendly and efficient, and the wine list is full of interesting selections at prices that are more than fair . Favourite dishes : Brandade de morue, mussels, marinate d sal mon, bavette, roasted scallops , seafood pot-au-feu, braised lam b shank, and desserts . CAFE MELIES

3530 Boulevard St. Laurent (near des Pins) Location: The Main Telephone: (514) 847-9218 Web site: www.ex-centris.com Open: 1 1 A.M.-10 P.M., Monday to Thursday, 1 1 A.M.-11 P.M., Friday, 8:30 A.M.-ll P.M. , Saturday,and 8:30 A.M.-10 P.M., Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Price range: Starters, $8-$20; main courses , $17-$29; desserts, $8-S10

CASUAL DINING 37 9

CHEZ CL O DINER

For the past 1 8 years, fans of Chez Clo have been flocking to thi s east-end eater y not onl y for eggs, bacon, beans, and cretons, but also for the homey ambienc e an d friendly service. Don't b e discouraged b y the lineups ; th e authenti c Quebecois-styl e cookin g —at ridiculously low prices—is worth th e short wait . The oldfashioned decor , which adds to the fun of this family-run restau rant, make s it the idea l spo t fo r a meal with children . A t lunc h and dinner, the menu includes Quebecois specialties such as tourtiere, poutine, ragout de boulettes, and pouding chdmeur. What a great place to pick up a bit of local flavour. Favourite dishes: Pea soup, assiette Quebecoise (ragout d e boulettes, tourtiere, pig's feet, salad, vegetables, potatoes), pork roast, breakfast specia l with cretons , date squares, and homemade pie s and layer cakes. CHEZ CLO 3199 Rue Ontario Eas t (corner Dezery) Location: East of city centre Telephone: (514) 522-5348 Open: 6 A.M.-3 P.M., Monday to Friday, and 6 A.M.-4 P.M., Saturday and Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Not accepte d Price range: Full meals start at $4

380 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMAN

CHINE TOQUE CHINESE

This moder n Chines e an d Szechwa n restauran t locate d down town on the edge of Westmount offers a fine array of American/ Chinese favourites. One tast e o f the deliciou s vegetabl e sprin g rolls and feather-ligh t wontons shows that thi s restaurant gives Chinese foo d th e attentio n i t deserves . Chin e Toqu e is a goo d choice fo r anyone interested i n delvin g into th e wider world of Chinese food. But if it's the outer reaches of the experience you're after, th e lovely decor and friendly service may not be enough to satisfy your search for spice. Favourite dishes: The wonton and hot and sour soups, the spring rolls, the sesame beef, and. the vegetable dishes. CHINE TOQUE 4050 Rue Ste. Catherine West (near Atwater) Location: Westmount/NDG Telephone: (514) 989-5999 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.--3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 p.M.-lO P.M., Sunday to Thursday, and 5:30 p.M.-ll P.M., Friday and Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Price range: Starters, $3.2!>-$6.85; main courses, $10.80-$14.80; desserts, $3.25-$3.50; four-course dinner menu for two, $41.99

CASUAL DININ G 38 1

FONDUEMENTALE FONDUE

This is a fun place for diners who enjoy the convivial atmosphere that develops around a pot of hot fondu e (it' s also the ideal date destination). The restaurant is set on the main floor of a beautiful old house on one of the most crowded strips of branche Rue St. Denis. FondueMental e i s especially popular wit h young peopl e who are new to fondue or aren't necessarily out for a gourmet experience (though foodies are sure to find the many fondue options amusing and impressive). Despite this restaurant's strengths, service can be slow and a bit distant . Favourite dishes: Wild mushroom fondue, Chinese fondue (broth), and bourguignonne fondue (oil) served with plates of game meats or seafood, and chocolate fondue. FONDUEMENTALE 4325 Rue St. Denis (near Marie Anne) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 499-1446 Website: www.fonduementale.com Open: 5:30 P.M.-10 P.M., Sunday to Thursday, and 5:30 P.M.11 P.M., Friday and Saturda y Wheelchair access : No Reservations: Essential Price range: Starters, $4.50-$11.50; mai n courses, $14-$26; desserts, $4-$8; table d'hote menu, $27-$40

382 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMAN

GANDHI INDIAN

Gandhi, open since 2001, could be described as Montreal's prettiest Indian restauran t (thoug h perhap s not it s most authentic) . Curries here consist o f meats—lamb, chicken, beef, and seafoo d —topped with a choice of sauces in a pick-and-choose styl e of cooking not usually associated with the slow-simmered preparations of Indian cuisine. Starters such as the vegetable samosas and pakoras ar e delicious, an d th e lovel y raita (cucumbe r with yogourt and coriander) will sooth an overheated palate. Authenticity sticklers may be disappointed, yet owner Mohammad Farouk Ahmed has made Gandh i a popular destinatio n b y placing th e emphasis o n a beautiful, inviting ambienc e wher e crisp whit e tablecloths, sunflower yellow walls, high ceilings , and floor-to ceiling windows overlooking Ru e St. Paul creat e an irresistibl e charm. The wine list comprises over 50 selections, including fine red an d whit e French wines along with a few choice rose s an d Champagnes. Favourite dishes: Aloo (potato) chat an d chicken chat , tandoo r duck, lamb korahi, butter chicken , chicken tikka jalfrezi, Malay a chicken, sagwala shrimp, vegetable dishes, and phirni (rice pud ding). GANDHI 230 Rue St. Paul West (near St. Pierre) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514) 845-5866 Web site: www.restaurantgandhi.com Open: Lunch, noon-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5 P.M.-10:30 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Price range: Starters, $3-$7.50; main courses, $9.50-$20.50; desserts, $3.50

CASUAL DINING 38 3

ISAKAYA JAPANESE

Since its opening two years ago, Isakaya has quickl y established itself as the most authentic Japanese restaurant in town. Though the setting may not be as fancy as those of many of the city's sushi emporiums, the lineup at the door, as well as the impressive number o f Japanes e patrons, tell s th e story . Che f an d owne r Shige Minagawa, a 25-year veteran of the restaurant Katsura, has a reputation amon g loca l fishmonger s as the ma n wh o choose s th e best fish and seafood , to which he doe s justice by serving it— cooked or raw—as simply as Japanese cuisine dictates. Look for daily specials—such as yellowtail neck, toro (choic e tuna belly), deep-fried oysters , or lobster sashimi—liste d on the chalkboard behind the kitchen. Not the spot for fashionistas seeking a sushibar scene, or trendies with a hankering for fruit-filled mak i rolls, Isakaya is the place for foodies looking for the real deal. Favourite dishes: Miso soup , gzoya dumplings, tempura , tun a and pork spring rolls, yakitori brochettes, sushi and sashimi, octopus omelet, grilled scallops, and shrimp with ginger sauce. ISAKAYA 3469 Avenue du Pare (near Milton) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 845-8226 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-3:00 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.- 10 P.M., Tuesday to Friday, and 6 P.M.- 11 P.M., Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Price range: Starters, $1.50-$8.75; main courses, $14-$23; desserts, $2.50

384 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMA N

LA PARYSE DINER

Your quest for the perfect burger stop s here. Nestled among the anonymous buildings facin g the QEGEP de Vieux Montreal, thi s resto cater s largely to the studen t crowd , which accounts for its bohemian ambience. To sink your teeth into one of their famous hamburgers i s to have a culinary epiphany of sorts. Corny as it may sound , th e girl s at L a Paryse put a lot o f loving car e into making their burgers , restoring a much-maligned classi c with a little homemade integrity, And the fries are pretty good too. Favourite dishes: Hamburgers, club sandwiches, La Paryse sandwich (egg, mushroom, and cheese), French fries, and wicked milkshakes. LA PARYSE

302 Rue Ontario East (corner Sanguinet) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 842-2040 Open: 11 A.M. -11 P.M., Monday to Friday, and noon-10 P.M., Saturday and Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Not accepted Price range: Full meals (burger or sandwich, French fries, and a drink), $10

CASUAL DINING 38 5

LA RACLETT E FRENCH/SWISS (BYOW)

The popularit y o f thi s charmin g bring-your-own-win e rest o proves you don't have to be Swiss or a skier to crave a plate of hot melted chees e for dinner. But if you do fancy raclette or fondue , this is the place to indulge. There are various affordable menu options, servic e is stellar, and th e Swiss-moder n decor i s romanti c (even the bathrooms are candlelit). In winter, the room is crowded with groups of revellers feasting on soups, salads, and large platters of raclette beneath cuckoo clocks. In summer it's bright and airy, with a large terrace in front and wonderful smells of melted cheese an d sautee d meat s emanatin g fro m th e gleamin g ope n kitchen. Don' t eve n think o f showing up without a reservation . Favourite dishes: Raclette (starter or main course), salads, fondue, emince de veau Zurichoise , salmo n with Meau x mustard, an d poire Belle Helene. LA RACLETTE 1059 Rue Gilford (corner Christophe Colomb ) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 524-8118 Open: 5:30 P.M.-midnight, daily (kitchen closes at 1 0 P.M.) Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Price range: Starters, $6.25-$7.50; main courses, $15.95-$22.45; desserts, $4.95-$5.50; three-course table d'h6te menu, $15.95$22.45; five-course table d'hote menu, $28-$32

386 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMAN

LA SPAGHETTAT A ITALIAN

Don't le t the nam e o r moder n log o foo l you . This Outremon t landmark, in business since 1978, offers som e the best and mos t reliable Italian food in town. The decor is modern and unpreten tious, the servic e is efficient an d professional , and everythin g is fresh an d prepared with care, Spaghettata als o boasts one of the most interestin g an d affordabl e (primaril y Italian ) wine list s around, with many fine choices by the glass. This is the ideal spo t for lunc h when shopping o n fashionabl e Avenue Laurier. Note: There's a children's menu as well. Favourite dishes: House-smoked salmon, antipasti Spaghettata, Caesar salad, lasagna, carbonara, and puttanesca pastas, and homemade desserts. LA SPAGHETTAT A

399 Avenue Laurier West (near Hutchison) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 273-9509 Open: 11:30 A.M.- 10 P.M., Sunday to Wednesday, and 11:3 0 A.M.- 11 P.M., Thursday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Price range: Starters, $4-$9; main courses, $ll-$27; desserts, $6; weekly two-course table d'hote menu, $18-$27; table d'h6te lunch menu, $8-$14

CASUAL DININ G 38 7

LE BISTING O BISTRO

Here i s another smal l (26-seat ) Outremont bistr o tha t feature s southwestern Frenc h foo d an d a well-priced win e list . What makes L e Bistingo stan d ou t i s the persona l touc h o f owne r Christian Truchot, who greets customers, makes wonderful wine and men u recommendations , an d oversee s the whol e shebang . The foo d is always fresh, inventive , and delicious . Onc e you'v e dined at Le Bistingo a couple of times, M. Truchot is sure to re member you. And on those nights when you show up hungry and without a reservation, he'll do his best to squeeze you in some where. Chances ar e you'll far e bette r i n summertime, when th e large outdoor terrace doubles the seating capacity. Favourite dishes: Cervelle de veau (calf's brains), bavette a 1'echalotte, duck magre t an d confit , gingerbrea d wit h poache d pears , tarte Tatin, and prune ice cream with a shot of Armagnac. LE BISTINGO 1199 Avenue Van Home (corner Bloomfield) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 270-6162 Open: Lunch, noon-2 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.-9:30 P.M., Monday to Wednesday, and 6 P.M.-10 P.M., Thursday to Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Price range: Starters, $4.95-$7.95; main courses, $12.95-$27.95; desserts, S3.95-$8.95; daily menu, $15.95; tasting menu, $34.95

388 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMA N

LE CONTINENTAL BISTRO

This 15-year-old Plateau bistro puts excellent wine front and centre. The wine list, assembled b y co-owner Alai n Rochard, comprises a well-chosen an d affordabl e selectio n o f internationa l bottles, most privately imported, with an emphasis on southwestern Frenc h wines. Along with all this lovely vino, Le Continental offers fanc y bistro far e in a relaxed Art Deco-diner setting. The space is dark and somewha t noisy , which suits the bistro ambi ence to a T. Hearty dishes like bison filet with blue cheese and wild mushrooms, and braised lamb shank are ideal for the full-bodied red wines, and one shouldn't pass on the dessert wines available by the glass. Le Continental has a second wine list available upon request, which includes obscure and rare bottles sure to send discriminating oenophile s int o a tizzy—especially as these selections are no more expensive than the ones on the main list. Favourite dishes: The chicken liver salad, the duc k magret, the bison with blue cheese, the braised lamb shank, the steak frites , and the caramelized pear tart. LE CONTINENTAL 4169 Rue St. Denis (near Rachel) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 845-6842 Open: 6 p.M.-midnight, Sunday and Monday, and 6 P.M.1 A.M., Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Essential Price range: Starters, $4.25 -$7.95; main courses, $12.95-$22.95; desserts, $3.25-$6.50

CASUAL DININ G 38 9

LE GRAI N D E SE L FRENCH

This tin y east-end bistr o coul d easil y be found on a quiet Pari s side street. The narrow room's Old World ambience is enlivened by a small bar an d a n open kitchen , where toque-wearing chef s busily assemble plates. The menu lists such bistro classics as goat's cheese salad, pheasant terrine, asparagus vinaigrette, an d bavette Maltre Queux, but once the plates arrive, you're sure to appreciate the kitchen' s flair for unusua l flavou r combinations . Che f an d owner Hop Lam Dao incorporates many Asian accents and exotic ingredients into his dishes, along with Quebec product s suc h as raw-milk cheese, beer, and iced cider. Service is efficient, an d th e wine list offer s man y affordable, food-friendly selections. Favourite dishes : Five-spic e quails , mussel s cooke d i n beer , salmon pav e with lemon an d ginger , and sweetbread s with wil d mushrooms. LE GRAIN DE SEL 2375 Rue Ste. Catherine East (near Fullum) Location: East of city centre Telephone: (514) 522-5105 Web site: www.legraindesel.netfirms.com Open: Lunch, noon-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.- 10:30 P.M. , Tuesday to Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommende d Price range: Starters, $5.25-$6.95; main courses, $16.95-$24.95; desserts, $3.95-$4.95

390 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLE Y CHESTERMAN

LE JARDI N D E PANO S CREEK (BYOW) When it comes to brochetteries, there isn't another i n Montreal that ca n hol d a spanakopita t o Avenu e Duluth' s L e Jardin d e Panos. Take a look at the small open kitchen up front, and you'll see two burly fellows grilling up a storm. Brochetterie fare may be simple, but most every item here is delicious and satisfying (portions ar e generous). The deco r complete s th e illusio n o f Greek authenticity. And if all that's missing is a bit of sunshine, there's a large, tree-filled terrace out bac k for summertime dining. Bring your own wine. Favourite dishes: Fried calamari, moussaka, grilled lamb chops (epithelia), all brochettes, and Greek-styl e yogourt topped wit h Greek honey or cherries in syrup. LE JARDIN DE PANOS 521 Rue Duluth East (near St. Hubert) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 521-4206 Web site: www.lejardindepanos.com Open: noon-midnight, daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Not accepted (expect a lineup on weekends) Price range: Starters, $2.5()-$9.95; main courses, $12.85-$20.95; desserts, $2.50-$3.95; table d'hote menus, $18.95, $21.95, and $24.95

CASUAL DININ G 39 1

LE MAISTR E BISTRO

Le Maistre is located i n an old townhouse o n the western end of Monkland Village. Thi s unpretentiou s restaurant' s popularit y may be due to its trendy NDG location, bu t fai r prices , friendl y service, and soli d bistr o foo d obviousl y hav e something t o d o with it as well. Le Maistre's wine list is another of its strong points. With many diverse selections offered a t no more than twice their retail price, the only difficulty i s choosing, as so many bottles are perfectly suited to this style of cuisine. Favourite dishes: Smoked salmon , cassoule t (whe n available), cheese course, and desserts. LE MAISTRE 5700 Avenue Monkland (corner Harvard) Location: Westmount/NDG Telephone: (514) 481-2109 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2 P.M., Thursday and Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.-9:30 P.M., Monday to Sunday Wheelchair access : No Reservations: Recommended Price range: Starters, $9; main courses, $20-$23; desserts, $4.50; table d'hote menu, $30 ($27 from Monday to Sunday)

392 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMA N

LE PARI S BEURR E BISTRO

Disappointments ar e fe w at this neighbourhoo d bistro , which specializes in cuisine bourgeoise , no t haute gastronomie o r con ceptual cooking. It's honest fare—th e kind of food you fantasize about when slicing through yet another pineapple-flavoure d scallop. Start the evening at the bar, the ideal spot for soaking up the ambience while sipping a glass of Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise. For times when you'd rathe r cha t wit h friends than analyz e the meal, drink wine to your heart's content, and wear a pair of khakis instead of your best Calvins, this restaurant serves up a near-perfect recipe of good food , pleasant surroundings , an d congenia l ser vice. In summer, Le Paris Beurre's 50-seat terrace is the place for alfresco dining . Favourite dishes : The c6te de boeuf, th e duck , and th e crem e brulee. LE PARIS BEURR E

1226 Avenue Van Home (near Bloomfield) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 271-7502 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5:30 P.M.- 10 P.M., Monday and Tuesday , and 5:3 0 P.M.10:30 P.M., Wednesday to Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Price range: Starters, $3.75-$9.95; main courses (lunch), $10 $14.95, main courses (dinner), $18.95-$37; desserts, $5-$6

CASUAL DININ G 39 3

LE PEGAS E FRENCH (BYOW) Arrive early at Le P6gase, and you'l l fin d a room filled with th e strains of the Bach cello suites and the enticing aromas emanating from the small, curtained-off kitchen . A friendly waiter will then deliver a dish of creamy brandade de morue, meant for spreading on thin croutons. It's all so peaceful and civilized that you'll gradually feel the week's stresses melting away. If you're looking fo r a relaxed little bistro where one can eat good food, chat with friends, unwind, and come home with a few bucks to spare, Le P£gase is just the ticket. Located on the edge of the Plateau on a residential strip o f Gilford Street , this casua l restauran t ha s a homey fee l shared by many other bring-your-own-wine establishments in the area. Though th e food is ambitious, it's not alway s on the mark . But if caribou i s on the menu, order it. Service is exemplary. Favourite dishes: The soups an d salads , the goat' s chees e salad, the caribou filet, and the desserts. LE PEGASE 1454 Rue Gilford (near Papineau) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 522-0487 Open: 5:30 P.M.- 10 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Cards: All major cards Price range: Starters, $8; main courses, $22-$28; desserts, $5-$6

394 FLAVOURVIIX E • LESLEY CHESTERMAN

LE POISSO N ROUGE FISH AND SEAFOOD (BYOW)

Most Platea u resident s showe r prais e o n L e Poisson Rouge , a bring-your-own-wine restaurant located on the northern cusp of Lafontaine Par k that specialize s in fis h an d seafood . Creating dishes that rang e from classi c t o fusion , che f an d owne r Pascal Gell6 has th e local s oohin g an d aahing . This i s a good choic e for fish lovers, or perhaps, more importantly, those who have yet to discove r ther e i s more t o fish than tun a melt s an d sushi . Le Poisson Rouge offers fe w risks price-wise, a congenial ambience, and, for wine-lovers, a fine spot to indulge in that bottle you've been saving for a special occasion. Be sure to book a table well in advance, as reservations are hard to come by, especially on weekends. Bring your own wine. Favourite dishes: The fish soup, the scallop ceviche, the mussels, and the pike quenelles. LE POISSON ROUGE 1201 Rue Rachel East (corner de la Roche) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mon t Royal Telephone: (514) 522-4876 Open: 5:30 P.M.-10 P.M., Tuesday to Thursday and Sunday, and two sittings, 6:30 P.M. and 8:3 0 P.M., Friday and Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Price range: Starters, $9; main courses, $21; desserts, $7; four-course table d'hdte menu, $32

CASUAL DININ G 39 5

LE P TIT PLATEAU BISTRO (BYOW) With its patterned tin ceiling, dim lights, crowded wooden tables, and bustling open kitchen, this wildly popular, petite neighbourhood resto appears to have been transported from on e of Paris's outer arrondissements . Th e southwester n Frenc h bistro foo d i s superb, an d th e service , though brusque , is thoroughly profes sional. The room can be noisy, but with atmosphere like this, you'll hardly notice. Be sure to reserv e well i n advance , especially o n weekends, when ther e ar e tw o seatings : 6:3 0 P.M . an d 8:3 0 P.M . Don't forget to bring your own wine. Favourite dishes: Foie gras (hot an d cold) , fish soup , cassoulet , confit de canard, onglet, creme brulee, and chocolate mousse. LE P'TIT PLATEAU 330 Rue Marie Anne East (corner Drolet) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 282-6342 Open: 5:30 P.M.-midnight, Tuesday and Wednesday, and two sittings, 6:30 P.M. and 8:3 0 P.M., Thursday to Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Price range: Starters, $7.50-$12; main courses, $22-$26; desserts, $6-$6.50

396 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMAN

LES DEU X CHEF S CONTEMPORARY

Les Deux Chefs i s the sor t o f restaurant where people com e t o relax. A night here feels like a dinner party hosted by neighbours who coo k to impress . And impressive it is, with a great deal of emphasis on flavour combinations, ingredients, and plate presentations. You'll see customers arrive, head straigh t to the bar, and leave carrying plates of food. Apparently, some regular customers drive in from as far away as the Laurentians to sample the cuisine of chef and owner s Lise and Bernar d Uffer. D o they come solely for th e food ? Perhaps . My guess, though, i s that th e persona l touch and the friendly surroundings are the real drawing cards. If you're looking for a "scene," look elsewhere. This is a small restaurant, ideal for romantic dinners and other tete-a-te'tes. Favourite dishes: The mushroom strudel , the seven-spice-crus t salmon, the stuffe d chicke n breast , the file t mignon , an d th e desserts. LES DEUX CHEFS 2876 Rue Masson (corner 6e) Location: East of city centre Telephone: (514) 725-2015 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 5 P.M.-9 P.M., Tuesday to Friday, and 5 p.M.-dosing, Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Price range: Starters, $6.95-$9.25; main courses, $16.95-$21.25; desserts, $3.95

CASUAL DININ G 39 7

LE VINTAGE PORTUGUESE

For those times when you've had your share of salmon and salads and fin d yoursel f yearning fo r somethin g rusti c an d soulful , Portuguese food migh t be just the ticket. Le Vintage, one of the Plateau's most beloved eateries, comes through with sweet white port and inky Douro wine, as well as pork, seafood, and fish that tastes like fish. Located on a busy stretch of St. Denis near Mont Royal, Le Vintage is ideally situated between the Portuguese community to the west, and the Plateau's trendier neighbourhood t o the east . If ever a restaurant typified its milieu, this would be it. This is a bustling restaurant. Consequently, noise levels tend to be high. Favourite dishes: The caldo verde, the sardines, the cod croquettes, and the cataplana. LE VINTAGE 4475 Rue St. Denis (near Mont Royal) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 849-4264 Open: noon-11 P.M., Monday to Friday, and 3 P.M.11 P.M., Saturday, Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Price range: Starters, $3.25-$9.25; main courses, $13.75-$21; desserts, $4.50

398 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMAN

MONKLAND TAVER N CONTEMPORARY

The Monkland Tavern is noisy and crowded. Reservations aren't taken, so arrive early or expect to stand in line for a table, especially in summer, when the cramped outdoor terrace is the place to b e for local ND G residents. How did this place ge t to be so popular? Regular s love th e groov y tunes, the enthusiasti c wai t staff, an d the laid-back atmosphere . There's a definite bar scen e here; regulars quaff whiskies, Martinis, elaborate cocktails, or one of six beers on tap till the wee hours of the morning. But let's not forget tha t thi s is a restaurant, an d th e diverse , American-style menu created by chef Steven Leslie features California-style cooking made with Quebecoi s ingredients . The pastas, salads, sandwiches, French fries, an d grilled meats are all very good. There's also an interesting wine list filled with a good choice of international bottles at fair prices. Favourite dishes: Squash soup, Caesar salad, Mediterranean grilled vegetable sandwich, BLT, salmon tartare, smoked chicken and Brie pasta, roaste d butternu t squas h an d Ricott a past a medallions , shrimp-fennel-bacon-Samibucca pasta , pan-seared salmo n wit h caramelized Savoy cabbage and crisp y potatoes, an d cheesecake. MONKLAND TAVERN 5555 Avenue Monkland (corner Old Orchard) Location: Westmount/NDG Telephone: (514) 486-5768 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.-11 P.M., daily; bar open to 1 A.M. (Summer hours: 6 P.M. -midnight, Tuesday to Saturday, and 6 P.M.- 11 P.M., Sunday and Monday) Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Not accepted (an d no minors) Price range: Starters, $6-$ll; main courses, $14-$28; desserts, $5-$7; table d'hote lunch menu, $13-$18; table d'hote dinner menu, $15-$25

CASUAL DININ G 39 9

PIZZERIA NAPOLITANA ITALIAN (BYOW)

One of Little Italy's most popular restaurants, Pizzeria Napolitana has been going strong for over 50 years. Many consider this pizza to be the best in town. That's open to debate, but I'm sold. Try for yourself (but expect to line up for a table), bring your own wine, and share a table with strangers. High noise levels—the price of popularity—can also be a problem. If that's not your scene, pizza and pasta are available to take out. Favourite dishes: Pizzas and pastas—especially penne (arrabbiata and Romana) , gnocchi Fiorentina, and farfall e wit h smoke d salmon. PIZZERIA NAPOLITANA 189 Rue Dante (corner de Gaspe) Location: Little Italy Telephone: (514) 276-8226 Web site: www.napoletana.com Open: 1 1 A.M.-11 P.M., Monday and Tuesday , 11 A.M.-midnight, Wednesday and Thursday, 11 A.M.-! A.M., Friday and Saturday, and noon-midnight, Sunday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Accepted for groups of eight or more only Price range: Starters, $4.50-$9.75; main courses, $8.75-$14.50; desserts, $4.75-$6.75 (tax included)

400 ELAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMAN

ROBERTO ITALIAN

Though this gelateria/wine bar maybe off the beaten track for the downtown crowd, Rosemount residents know that Roberto is the place fo r homemad e pastas , panini , an d som e o f the bes t ice cream in the city. The bistro's table d'h&te offers fancy fare, but you might want to go easy on the pasta and veal dishes and splurge on one of the delicious ic e cream desserts. The wine list is extensive, but there are too few selections offered by the glass for this to be a serious contender as a wine bar. On your way out, be sure to stop at Roberto' s gourmet stor e next door for some fres h pasta , imported condiments, or cured meats. And don't forget to visit the takeout gelato counter for one of the 20 fabulous ice creams, such as Baci, nougat, or pistachio . Favourite dishes: Sandwiches, arugula salads , grilled vegetables and mushrooms, pastas, gnocehi, veal scaloppini, and gelato. ROBERTO 2221 Rue Belanger (near St. Michel) Location: North of city centre, in Rosemont Telephone: (514) 374-9844 Open: Lunch, noon-3:30 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 5 P.M.-10 RM., Tuesday, Wednesday, and Sunday, and 5 P.M.11 P.M., Thursday to Saturday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Price range: Starters, $4.50- $8.50; main courses, $7.50-$18; desserts, $3.50-$6.50; table d'hote lunch menu, $10.95-$22.95; table d'h6te dinner menu, $16.95-$25.95

CASUAL DININ G 40 1

RU D E NA M VIETNAMESE

If bright and vivi d flavour s ar e what you're after , R u de Nam, a Vietnamese restaurant surrounded by antique shops across from the Corona theatr e on Rue Notre Dame West, might be just the ticket. To enter the dining room, patrons must first pass through a chic boutique that carries Vietnamese pottery, tableware, picture frames, an d othe r exoti c lovelies. The adjoinin g room is just as pretty, with apple green, cream, and hot pink walls painted with large flower murals. Exquisite orchids of all shapes and sizes are in evidence, and table s set with wove n mats an d cerami c crockery run the width of the room. Unlike fiery Thai or Szechwan cuisine, the Vietnamese food her e uses chili in small quantities. The flavours can be subtle or vibrant, with coriander, lemon grass, lime leaves, and ginger used in varying degrees. Following the contemporary prettiness of the decor, plate presentations are one of Ru de Nam's strengths. The others are the soups, the starters, and the friendly service. Favourite dishes: Ginger fis h congee , chicke n and pineappl e soup, and shrimp with tamarind. RU DE NAM 2501 Rue Notre Dame West (corner Charlevoix) Location: Downtown Telephone: (514) 989-2002 Open: Lunch, noon-2 P.M., Monday, and noon-2 P.M., Tuesday to Friday; dinner, 6:30 P.M.- 10 P.M., Tuesday to Friday, and 6:3 0 P.M.- 10 P.M., Saturday and Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Price range: Soups, $4-$5; salads, $5-$7; rolls, $5-$10; main courses, $14-$19; desserts, $4

402 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMAN

SCHWARTZ'S DELI

A deli-lover's Mecca, Schwartz's has been around since your grandfather's day. The decor is... well, let's just say you don't come here for the decor. You come here for some of the best smoked meat— what Americans, and especiall y New Yorkers, might cal l "pas trami"—you've eve r tasted . Aficionado s rank i t righ t u p ther e with the best in the world. The secret is the spicing and smoking, which ar e don e o n th e premise s i n a time-honoured fashio n handed down by the Jewish immigrants wh o came to Montrea l from Eastern Europe and Russia at the turn of the twentieth cen tury. Menu, schmenu—orderin g goes somethin g lik e this: "Hi , folks. What can I get for you? A smoked meat sandwich? A steak? How d o yo u lik e it ? Lean? Frenc h fries ? Pickle ? And t o drink ? Cherry Coke?" One nic e featur e is the grab-it-where-you-can find-it seating , which inevitabl y put s yo u shoulder t o shoulde r with strangers who, after a smoked meat sandwich and pickle or two, are strangers no longer . Favourite dishes: Smoked meat sandwich and rib steak. SCHWARTZ'S 3895 Boulevard St. Laurent (near NapoMon) Location: The Main Telephone: (514) 842-4813 Web site: www.schwartzsdeli.com Open: 9 A.M.-12:30 A.M., Sunday to Thursday, 9 A.M.-1:30 A.M., Friday, and 9 A.M.-2:30 A.M., Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Not accepted Price range: Sandwich, French fries, and a drink, $8.50; rib steak with all the fixings (except the drink), $ 13.95

CASUAL DININ G 40 3

SCOLA PAST A ITALIAN

Neighbourhood bistros abound in the island city, and one of the best in Old Montreal is Scola Pasta, the cozy establishment o n the corner of St. Jean and Notre Dame, a stone's throw from Notre Dame Cathedral. At this no-frills, two-floor Italian eatery the accent is on freshness and value and some of the friendliest service you'll ever encounter. A self-serve counte r an d a n ope n kitche n are the main features of the simply decorated room, whose wraparound windows and uncluttered layout create a cheerful and airy space. Daily specials are listed on the small blackboard that takes the place of a printed menu . Choose one of the specials o r customize your ow n pasta, antipast o plate , o r sandwic h (portion s are invariably generous). Note: Credit cards are not accepted . Favourite dishes: Lunchtime sandwiches and homemade soup s (available to take out a s well), you-chose-the-ingredients pastas, heaping plates of antipasto (complete with cheese, salami, olives, and a mouthwatering array of macaroni, mushroom, tomato, cucumber, artichoke, and chickpe a salads), and dail y fish, chicken, or meat dishes. SCOLA PASTA 260 Rue Notre Dame West (near St. Jean) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514) 842-223 2 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-8:30 P.M., Monday to Friday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Not accepted Price range: Starters, $2.95-$6.95; main courses, $6.95-$9.95

404 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMAN

SOFIA CONTEMPORARY

Looking for a branche" restaurant fo r a n affordabl e dinne r wit h friends or a meeting place for a light meal or glass of wine before a night on the town? Consider Sofia , a trendy Boulevard St. Laurent eatery with cracklin g ambience, industria l bistro decor, techn o background music, good simple food, and the kind of unpretentious service rarely associated 'with the Boulevard St. Laurent scene. Though Sofi a tend s t o attrac t th e twenty - t o thirtysomethin g crowd, diners of all ages should fee l comfortable here, as the en ticing men u an d divers e win e lis t cate r t o sophisticate d an d novice palates alike. A word of warning: Noise levels rise considerably after midnight , and when a guest DJ takes over the soun d system, revellers have been known to dance on the tables. Favourite dishes: Daily specials (such as grilled salmon and filet mignon), Italian sausag e and roaste d peppe r pizza , grilled vegetable an d goat' s cheese sandwich, tuna Nicois e salad, polentacrusted calamari, and homemade sorbets and ice creams. SOFIA 3600 Boulevard St. Laurent (corner Prince Arthur) Location: The Main Telephone: (514) 284-0092 Web site: www.sofiagrill.com Open: Lunch, noon-3 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner, 6 P.M.- 11 P.M., Sunday to Wednesday, and 6 P.M.- 1 A.M., Thursday to Saturday Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Price range: Starters, $6-$12; main courses, $10-$25; desserts, $4-$6

CASUAL DININ G 40 5

SOUVENIRS D'INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE

With it s fres h an d intens e last-gasp-of-summe r flavours , Sou venirs d'Indochine is ideal for warm-weather dining. It's also the perfect antidote to the midwinter blues. The menu lists a tempting assortment o f soups and salads (staple dishes in Vietnamese cuisine), along with the requisite rolls, meat and fish dishes, and exotic desserts. The best way to appreciate th e food at Souvenirs d'Indochine i s to orde r wit h abando n an d share . Although th e food, especially the starters, hits many highs, service sometime s comes up short. Favourite dishes : Th e Tonkines e soup, the gree n papay a salad served with grilled beef, the spring rolls, and the grilled chicken with lemon grass and hot pepper. SOUVENIRS D'INDOCHINE 1454 Avenue Mont Royal (near Jeanne Mance) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 848-0336 Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; 5:30 P.M.-10:30 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: Yes Reservations: Recommended Price range: Starters, $4.25-$8; main courses, $9.75-$14.50; desserts, $3.25-$4.50

406 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMA N

SOY CHINESE/JAPANESE/KOREAN

Prepare to be dazzled at Soy, and for good reason. Chef Suzanne Liu and manager Manny Cheng are known as innovative restaurateurs. The first incarnation o f Soy brought a modern fac e t o Asian cuisine, favouring a. jumble of Chinese, Japanese, and Ko rean over a single style. All was going swimmingly until the restaurant wa s destroyed b y fir e i n Jun e 2001. Patrons waite d fo r news of the couple' s intention s until December 2002, when Soy was reincarnated at a new location on Boulevard St. Laurent, north of Fairmount. And now we have the ne w Soy, which remains as young in spirit as the first—and just as popular. Though the food has its ups and down , the prices ar e sure to pleas e the branche crowd. There are dumplings, spring rolls, stir-fries, and plenty of noodles, all assembled with style on lovely Asian plates. Favourite dishes: The soups, the daikon-and-tarragon-wrapped cold shrimp , th e Korean-styl e barbecued beef , an d th e sake steamed salmon. SOY

5258 Boulevard St. Laurent (near Fairmount) Location: Outremont/Mile End Telephone: (514) 499-9399 Open: 11:30 A.M.-9:30 P.M., Monday to Friday, 5 P.M.10:30 P.M. , Saturday, and 5 p.M.-9:30 P.M., Sunday Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Essential Price range: Starters, $3-$5; main courses, $8-$15

CASUAL DININ G 40 7

STASH CAF E POLISH

An Old Montreal institution , Stash is the place for Polish homecooked-style meals in a warm an d welcomin g atmosphere . It' s popular wit h business types during the week , but th e weekend crowd is made up primarily of tourists who come to Stash to soak up borsht and nibble pierogies in an Eastern European/Old Montreal setting . Th e combinatio n o f old wooden churc h benches , stone walls covered with Polish art, candles, and fresh flowers lend an air of romance to any meal here. The retro-cafe' ambience, laidback wait staff, and large portions also make this a popular dinner destination fo r students . Favourite dishes: Borsht , pierogies (dumpling s filled with meat or cheese , served wit h sou r cream) , wild boar , kaczk a (roas t duck), apple strudel, and peach crisp. STASH CAFE 200 Rue St. Paul West (near St. Francois Xavier) Location: Old Montreal Telephone: (514) 845-6611 Open: 11:3 0 A.M.-10 P.M., daily Wheelchair access: No Reservations: Recommended Price range: Starters, $4-$8.75; main courses, $9.25-$15.75; desserts, $4.25-$5.25; four-course table d'hote menu , $20.75-$28.50

408 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMA N

VENTS D U SU D FRENCH (BYOW)

Vents d u Su d feels lik e a French villag e restaurant , with mis matched chairs, a cast of regulars, casually dressed friendly ladies uncorking your wine (bring your own), and a portly, moustached chef an d owne r (Gerar d Couret ) chattin g u p diner s betwee n courses. The cuisine is rustic Basque and Catalonian, and i t features terrines, confits, grilled meats , and sauce s laced wit h pep pers, garlic, and tomatoes. In fall and spring, look for dishes with wild mushrooms , a s chef Coure t i s an experience d mushroo m gatherer. Thi s popula r bistr o ca n get a bit ou t o f hand whe n crowded (slo w service, uneven food), so a meal early in the week is probably your best bet. Favourite dishes: Grilled peppers , cassoulet , sweetbread s wit h girolle mushrooms, rabbil; with prunes, and mixed garbure plate (which includes sausage, chicken, duck, and vegetables). VENTS DU SUD 323 Avenue Roy East (corner Drolet) Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal Telephone: (514) 281-9913 Open: 5:30 P.M.-10 P.M., Tuesday to Sunday Reservations: Essential Wheelchair access: Yes Price range: Starters, $5.75-$8.75; main courses, $16-$22.25; desserts, $6.25; table d'hdte menu, $19.95-$29.95

409

FOOD INDE X AMERICAN Le Gourmand Savannah

172 334

BISTRO Au Petit Extra Bistro on the Avenue Le Bistingo Le Continental Le Maistre Le Paris Beurre Le P'tit Plateau (BYOW ) L'Express Rosalie

374 376 387 388 391 392 395 244 328

CHINESE Chine Toque Le Chrysantheme L'Orchidee de Chine

Soy Zen CONTEMPORARY Area Brunoise Cafe Massawippi CafeMelies Chez L'Epicier Cube Derriere les Fagots Globe La Chronique La Gaudriole Le Club des Pins

380 166 252 406 367

29 51 57 378 69 81 90 102 133 139 169

Treehouse Verses

219 396 206 228 259 398 300 404 350 354 364

DELI Schwartz's

402

DINER Beauty's Chez Clo La Paryse

375 379 384

Les Chevres Les Deux Chefs Le St. Augustin Les Infideles (BYOW ) Med Grill Monkland Tavern Restaurant Le McHaff y Sofia Toque!

FISH/SEAFOOD 40 Westt Steakhouse 23 and Raw Bar 87 Delfino 93 Desjardins Le Poisson Rouge (BYOW ) 394 Maestro S.V.P. Rib 'n Ree f FRENCH Anise Auberge Hatley Au Bistro Gourmet Au Pied de Cochon

256 308

26 32 373 35

410 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMAN

38 44 48 65 72 75 78 Clementine 105 Guy & Dodo Morali Holder 108 124 La Bastide La Biche au Bois 127 136 La Colombe (BYOW ) 142 Laloux 385 La Raclette (BYOW) 145 La Rapiere 148 L'Armoricain 151 L'Autre Saison La Vielle Histoire (BYOW ) 154 156 L'Eau a la Bouche 160 Le Beam 162 Le Caveau 389 Le Grain de Sel 174 Le Grand Cafe 180 Le Lutetia Le Margaux 183 185 Le Mas des Oliviers 189 Le Mitoyen 194 Le Paris Le Passe-Partout 197 Le Pegase (BYOW) 393 203 Le Puy du Fo u (BYOW ) Les Caprices de Nicolas 209

Au Tournant de la Riviere Bistro a Champlain Bleu Raisin (BYOW ) Chez Delmo Chez Noeser (BYOW) Chez Queux

Les Chanterelles de Richelieu Les Chenets Les Deux Charentes Les Halles Les Remparts

213 215 222 225 230

Les Sarcelles Les Trois Tilleuls Le Surcouf L'Habitant Nuances Philippe de Lyon Restaurant Bonapart e Restaurant Christophe (BYOW ) Restaurant Le St.

234 236 239 250 273 276 293

Christophe (BYOW ) Restaurant Yoyo (BYOW ) Vents du Sud (BYOW )

302 305 408

FONDUE FondueMentale

381

GREEK Le Jardin de Panos (BYOW) Lezvos West Milos Vegera

390 247 267 361

INDIAN Gandhi LeTaj

382 241

ITALIAN Bice Buona Notte Cafe International Cavalli Da Emma 11 Campari Centro 11 Cortile 11 Mulino La Cantina

41 54 377 59 84 111 114 117 130

296

FOOD INDE X 41 1

La Spaghettat a Le Latini Le Muscadin Le Piemontais Piccola Italia Pizzeria Napolitan a

386 177 192 200 279

(BYOW) Primadonna Quelli Delia Notte Ristorante Bis Ristorante Da Vinci Ristorante Frank Ristorante Lucc a Ristorante Prim o et Secondo Ristorante Sapori Pront o

399 281 284 311 313 317 320

Roberto Rugantino Scola Pasta Sotto Sopra JAPANESE/SUSHI Isakaya Katsura Mikado Mikado Monkland Primadonna Quelli Delia Notte Sho-Dan

Soy Tokyo Sukiyaki Treehouse

322 325 400 331 403 340

383 120 261 264 281 284 337 406 346 354

KOREAN

Soy

406

MIDDLE EASTERN Alep

372

POLISH Stash Cafe '

407

PORTUGUESE Ferreira Cafe Trattori a Le Vintage

96 397

QUEBECOIS Au Pied de Cochon RUSSIAN Troika STEAK 40 Westt Steakhouse and Ra w Bar Gibbys

35

357

Moishe's Stea k House Queue de Cheval Rib 'n Reef

23 99 270 287 308

SWISS La Raclette (BYOW )

385

THAI Chao Phraya Red Thai Thai Grill

62 290 343

VIETNAMESE Ru de Nam Souvenirs d'lndochine

401 405

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413

GEOGRAPHICAL INDEX DOWNTOWN Au Bistro Gourmet Bice Cavalli Desjardins Ferreira Cafe' Trattori a Guy & Dodo Morali 11 Campari Centra 11 Cortile Isakaya Katsura La Rapiere L'Autre Saison Le Caveau Le Chrysantheme Le Grand Cafe Le Latini Le Lutetia Le Mas des Olivier s Le Muscadin Le Paris Les Caprices de Nicolas Les Chenets Les Halles LeTaj L'Orchidee de Chine Queue de Cheval Ristorante Bis Ristorante Da Vinci Rosalie Ru de Nam Sho-Dan

Troika

373 41 59 93 96 105 111 114 383 120 145 151 162 166 174 177 180 185 192 194 209 215 225 241 252 287 311 313 328 401 337

Zen

357 367

1LE NOTRE DAME Nuances LITTLE ITALY Cafe Internationa l 11 Mulino La Cantina Piccola Itali a Pizzeria Napolitana (BYOW ) Quelli Delia Notte Ristorante Frank Ristorante Lucca Ristorante Primo et Secondo Sotto Sopra THE MAIN Buona Notte CafeMelies Globe Maestro S.V.P. Med Grill Moishe's Steak House Primadonna Red Thai Rugantino Savannah Schwartz's Sofia

273

377 117 130 279 399 284 317 320 322 340

54 378 102 256 259 270 281 290 331 334 402 404

414 FLAVOURVIIX E • LESLEY CHESTERMA N

OLD MONTREAL Chez Delmo Chez L'Epicier Chez Queux Cube Da Emma Gandhi Gibbys Holder Les Remparts Restaurant Bonaparte Scola Pasta Stash Caf e Verses OUTREMONTY MILE END Anise Chao Phraya Delfino La Bastide La Chroniqu e La Gaudriole La Spaghettata Le Bistingo Le Club des Pins Le Paris Beurre Les Chevres Mikado Milos Restaurant Christophe (BYOW ) Souvenirs d'Indochine

Soy Thai Grill Vegera

ST. DENIS/ 65 PLATEAU MONT ROYA L 373 69 Au Bistro Gourme t 35 75 Au Pied de Cocho n

81 84 382 99 108 230 293 403 407 364

375 48 51 381 136 142 Laloux La Paryse 384 385 La Raclette (BYOW ) Le Continental 388 Le Jardin de Panos (BYOW ) 390 Le Margaux 183 Le Pegase (BYOW ) 393 Le Piemontais 200 Le Poisson Rouge (BYOW) 394 Le P'tit Plateau (BYOW ) 395 203 Le Puy du Fou (BYOW ) 222 Les Deux Charentes Les Infideles (BYOW ) 228 Le Vintage 397 244 L'Express Restaurant Yoyo (BYOW ) 305 350 Toque! 408 Vents du Sud

Beauty's Bleu Raisin (BYOW ) Brunoise FondueMentale La Colombe (BYOW )

26 62 87 124 133 139 386 387 169 392 219 261 WESTMOUNT/NDG 267 Bistro on the Avenue

Chine Toque 296 Le Maistre 405 Le Passe-Partout 406 Lezvos West 343 Mikado Monkland 361 Monkland Tavern Ristorante Sapori Pronto Treehouse

376 380 391 197 247 264 398 325 354

GEOGRAPHICAL INDEX 41 5

NORTH AND EAST OF CITY CENTRE North Alep Le Beam Rib 'n Reef Roberto Tokyo Sukiyaki East Area Au Petit Extra Chez Clo L'Armoricain Le Grain de Sel Les Deux Chefs OUT OF TOWN 40 Westt Steakhouse and Raw Bar Auberge Hatley Au Tournant de la Riviere Bistro a Champlain Cafe Massawippi Chez Noeser (BYOW ) Clementine Derriere les Fagots La Biche au Bois La Vielle Histoire (BYOW ) L'Eau a la Bouche Le Gourman d Le Mitoyen Le St. Augustin Les Chanterelles de Richelieu Les Sarcelles Les Trois Tilleuls Le Surcouf L'Habitant

372 160 308 400 346

29 374 379 148 389 396

23 32 38 44 57 72 78 90 127 154 156 172 189 206 213 234 236 239 250

Philippe de Lyon 27 Restaurant Le McHaffy 30 Restaurant Le St. Christophe (BYOW) 30

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