E.guide: London

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London e guide the travel guide with its own website

always up-to-date d what’s happening now

London e guide In style • In the know • Online

www.elondon.dk.com

Produced by Blue Island Publishing Contributors Jonathan Cox, Michael Ellis, Andrew Humphreys, Lisa Ritchie Photographer Max Alexander

Reproduced in Singapore by Colourscan Printed and bound in Singapore by Tien Wah Press First published in Great Britain in 2005 by Dorling Kindersley Limited 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL Reprinted with revisions 2006 Copyright © 2005, 2006 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Company All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owner. A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library. ISBN 1 4053 1401 X ISBN 978 1 40531 401 5 The information in this e>>guide is checked annually. This guide is supported by a dedicated website which provides the very latest information for visitors to London; please see pages 6–7 for the web address and password. Some information, however, is liable to change, and the publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain.

Contents The Website >> Your Password 6 Top Choices 8 The Year / Morning / Afternoon Evening / Night

Restaurants 20 Shopping 56 Art & Architecture 92 Performance 114 Pubs, Bars & Clubs 132 Streetlife 156 Havens 166 Hotels 176 Street Finder 190 Index by Area 210 Index by Type 220 Travel Information 230 Practical Information 232 General Index 234

visit www.elondon.dk.com for the

listings One book to take…

Stay ahead of the crowd with edguide London, and find the best places to eat, shop, drink and chill out at a glance. Packed with great ideas, incisive reviews and stylish photographs, it’s the guide

for those who want to experience the real soul and pace of the city. With its own dedicated website, this is the only guidebook that’s always up-to-date. • Find a romantic restaurant for a special occasion, or the best pub for a pint • Explore small, independent art galleries in London’s coolest neighbourhoods • Discover the city’s nightlife, from DJ bars to live gigs and the latest clubs • Shop till you drop at the very best of London’s shops, from fashion to furniture

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revi

latest on what’s happening now

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…one website to visit Click onto www.elondon.dk.com for the latest news from and about places listed in the guide, plus readers’ reviews and chat, features on hot topics, and an up-to-the-minute short list of London’s most useful service providers. The website is regularly updated,

• Tap into what’s on at Covent Garden and who’s in at the Tate, and book your tickets online • Look up restaurants by name, by type and by area, and check the latest reviews • Link directly to all the websites in the book, and many more

so every time you visit you bring your guidebook up-to-date.

• Have your say about places in the book, and recommend your favourites

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7

top choices London is one of the world’s most cosmopolitan cities, boasting superb modern architecture, bold street fashion, a vibrant arts scene, and restaurants and nightlife for every taste. This guide leads you to the city’s latest and best, opening with the top choices of what to do through the year and 24/7. And here, to get you started, are London’s most unmissable sights: d

The British Museum (p98)

d

The London Eye (p18)

d

Tate Modern and Tate Britain (p111 and p99)

d

The National Gallery (p95)

d

The Tower of London (p96)

d

Westminster Abbey (p96)

d

Buckingham Palace and the Queen’s Gallery (p96)

d

St Paul’s Cathedral (p100)

d

The Houses of Parliament (p113)

d

Shakespeare’s Globe (p130)

TOP CHOICES –

the year

There’s no doubt about it – London is ready to party. No matter what time of year you’re in town, there’s always something going on in this most international of cities. London’s music and film festivals are second to none, and venerable British institutions such as the Chelsea Flower Show seem to become more exciting every year. Community celebrations too, such as Chinese New Year and Pride, have become bigger and slicker in recent years, attracting a wider cross-section of the population. However, don’t miss out on the quirkier events that will give you insight into local life. Take advantage of Open Garden Squares Weekend to peek inside secluded gardens that are usually kept behind lock and key, and join in the free, family-friendly festivities dotting the summer calendar on the South Bank.

SPRING

mystical landscapes – have universal appeal. In midsummer, Hampton Court Palace hosts the world’s largest horticultural event, with dazzling floral displays and temporary landscaped gardens in the palace’s sprawling parkland. May (Chelsea) & Jul (Hampton Court)

Chinese New Year www.chinatownchinese.com

The main celebration has outgrown Chinatown and moved to Trafalgar Square, which is decorated with lanterns and flowers. The entertainment includes traditional lion and dragon dances, and fireworks in Leicester Square. Food stalls spring up all along Gerrard Street. Jan or Feb

Outdoor Concerts Kenwood House (Map 1 C1; see p108), www.picnicconcerts.com; Somerset House (Map 9 H3; see p94), www.somerset-house.org.uk; Holland Park (Map 6 D5; see p170), www.operahollandpark.com

London Marathon www.london-marathon.co.uk

More than 45,000 runners set off from Greenwich Park, and follow the Thames through Docklands and along Victoria Embankment to The Mall. You can join the party atmosphere in one of over 50 participating pubs, which open in readiness for the 9am start. Apr

SUMMER

What could be more magical than listening to music outdoors in a beautiful setting? On a balmy summer’s evening, pack a picnic and throw down a blanket in the grounds of Kenwood House. Concerts feature big names in jazz, pop and classical music, and end with a fireworks display over the lake. In central London, the magnificent courtyard of Somerset House hosts concerts each summer. Recent super-chilled acts include Air and Bebel Gilberto. For something more classical, Opera Holland Park performs amid flowerbeds – a canopy ensures the show goes on whatever the weather. Check schedules on the websites. Jun, Jul & Aug

Open Garden Squares Weekend http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/london.gardens

Chelsea & Hampton Court Palace Flower Shows Royal Hospital, Chelsea (Map 14 C4); Hampton Court Palace • £ Hampton Court; www.rhs.org.uk

The Royal Horticultural Society’s Chelsea Flower Show is a slightly elitist occasion, but the show gardens – ranging from restrained, contemporary spaces to

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A rare, fleeting opportunity to slip into some of London’s secret gardens. More than 80 private squares – usually the preserve of privileged key-holding residents – open their gates to the public. Refreshments, live music and other entertainments are offered in some. Maps and full details are on the website. Jun

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AUTUMN

Coin Street Festival Bernie Spain Gardens (Map 10 A4), www.coinstreetfestival.org

Ethnic diversity is celebrated with live world music, dance and art workshops at this free, community-based festival. Events take place over a series of theme days and weekends throughout the summer. Jun–Aug

Pride London www.pridelondon.org

The gay and lesbian festival is one of London’s largest, with flamboyant floats, dancers and, of course, drag queens. It begins in the morning with a parade through central London. In the afternoon, a massive party kicks off in a park, with live music and high camperie. Jul

The Proms Royal Albert Hall (Map 13 G1), www.bbc.co.uk/proms

Launched over 100 years ago to promote musical appreciation among the masses, the Proms offer very cheap “promenade” (standing) tickets on the night, as well as prebooked seats for over 70 concerts. There is a bigscreen link-up in Hyde Park. Securing a ticket for the famously high-spirited Last Night is tricky. Jul–Sep

Notting Hill Carnival 1 Notting Hill Gate or Latimer Road (Map 7 E4),

08700 591111, www.nottinghillcarnival.org.uk

The famous Carnival still has a heavy Caribbean accent. Exotic floats and costumed dancers parade through the shabby-chic streets of Notting Hill, while throngs of revellers strut their stuff to calypso, salsa, R&B and hiphop. Countless food stalls dish up rice‘n’peas, jerk chicken and salt-fish patties. Aug Bank Holiday Weekend

Frieze Art Fair Pavilion in Regent’s Park (Map 2 B3), www.friezeartfair.com

London’s newest and best contemporary art fair draws work from 150 galleries around the world, including big hitters Marian Goodman and Leo Koenig in New York, Jablonka Gallerie in Cologne and Galerie Yvon Lambert, Paris. The gathering is organized by international art magazine Frieze and lasts for four days. Mid-Oct

Open House Weekend www.londonopenhouse.org

Over 500 London buildings, most of which are not usually accessible to the public, throw open their doors for just one weekend. The list of participating buildings changes annually, but each year’s event includes a fabulous selection of grand mansions and contemporary houses; public housing schemes by renowned architects; lavish government departments such as the Foreign Office; industrial buildings; theatres; church crypts and more. You have to book for some: check the website. Mid-Sep

WINTER London Film Festival www.lff.org.uk

More than 300 films are screened during this two-week festival, at selected cinemas in central London. A diverse programme includes gala previews of big-budget movies, international and art-house features, and appearances by filmmakers, writers and actors. Late Oct/Nov

Somerset House Ice Rink Somerset House (Map 9 H3; see also p94)

Glide around London’s most beautiful ice rink, which is set in the courtyard of a Thames-side landmark and torch-lit in the evening. Hot chocolate and mulled wine are available at the Ice Rink Café. Nov–Jan

For listings magazines with full information on everything that’s on in London, see p232

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TOP CHOICES –

morning

Rush-hour traffic aside, this is the best time to appreciate sights that are thronged later in the day. On a fine morning, the sun glistens on serene waterways and highlights the vivid floral displays in London’s parks, where the relative quiet is punctuated by bird song. The city’s atmospheric markets kick off early and are less crowded and combed-through than in the afternoon. Arrive at opening time with the professional dealers if you want to snap up the treasures. If the weather is unkind and paints the sky grey, you can still make the most of an early start by taking in a spot of culture. Beat the crowds to a famous museum, or attend a coffee concert of classical music. If all that sounds like a bit too much effort, linger over brunch in one of the most stylish parts of town.

An Early Swim Serpentine Lido, Hyde Park (Map 8 A5), 020 7706 7098; Parliament Hill Lido • 1 Belsize Park or Kentish Town

Start your day with a splash in Hyde Park’s mini Riviera. The south-west section of the Serpentine is reserved for swimming, and offers a sun deck and paddling pool as well. It opens at 9am. Afterwards, you can relax with an alfresco coffee at the Lido Café. For an earlier dip, try Parliament Hill Lido – a recently refurbished 60-m (100-ft) pool on Hampstead Heath. This one opens at 7am for free swimming until 9:30pm. It also has a terrace, café and paddling pool.

A Stroll around Little Venice Blomfield Road, W2 (Map 7 G1; see also p171)

The picturesque area where three canals converge makes for a pleasant morning amble along towpaths. Brightly painted narrow boats line the Regent’s Canal

between affluent Maida Avenue and Blomfield Road. Some boats are laden with splendid blooms in hanging baskets. There’s a floating café in the triangle of water where the canals meet, but the best place for breakfast is Café Laville, which occupies a prime spot overlooking the canal on Edgware Road. The back of the restaurant opens up to command a spectacular view of the waterway and its colourful vessels.

A Boat Trip Upriver (Westminster Pier to Richmond, Kew or Hampton Court) Thames River Boats, 020 7930 2062, www.wpsa.co.uk

For a relaxing day trip, follow the route of Henry VIII’s Royal Barge from Westminster to the palace at Hampton Court, where the notorious 16th-century monarch bedded his many wives. You can disembark early at Kew for the Royal Botanical Gardens (see p175), or Richmond for its deer park and large riverside pubs. However, going the extra distance is worth it, as the winding, willow-lined stretch of river between Kew and Hampton Court is especially picturesque.

Breakfast at Smithfields Charterhouse Street & East Poultry Lane (Map 10 B2)

Catering primarily to the workers of Smithfield meat market, the Fox and Anchor, 115 Charterhouse Street, does a hearty “Full English” breakfast (fried bread, sausages, egg, beans and black pudding) from 7am. Wash it down with a Wadsworth ale or a stout. The Cock Tavern, set in the basement depths of the market, offers a similar line in fry-ups and beer from 6am, making it popular with all-night clubbers as well as night workers.

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Brunch in Notting Hill Dakota: 127 Ledbury Road; 202: 202 Westbourne Grove; Tom’s Delicatessen: 226 Westbourne Grove (all on Map 6 D3)

Join the beautiful people gathering over Bloody Marys and eggs Benedict in cool Notting Hill. Airy, modern American restaurant Dakota has a terrific weekend brunch menu, while the French-style café in Nicole Farhi’s lifestyle store, 202, serves blueberry pancakes, bagels and smoked salmon. Tom’s Deli is a local institution, and all three have outside tables in summer.

Saturdays on Portobello Road www.portobelloroad.co.uk (see also p159)

Get up early for some civilized antiques browsing before the melee is in full swing. The market officially opens at 5:30am, and most dealers have set up shop by 8am. Warrens of small stalls selling bric-a-brac and collector’s pieces can be found in the arcades leading off the street. The café at kitchenalia shop Still Too Few (300 Westbourne Grove) is an excellent refuelling stop.

seems overly crowded, but that’s not true of the museum galleries. Make the most of the relative quiet of a morning to peruse some of the highlights of the extensive collection: finely hewn Egyptian sculptures, reliefs from the Buddhist temple at Amaraviti and, of course, the infamous Elgin Marbles.

A Walk in Regent’s Park www.royalparks.gov.uk (Map 2 B4)

Morning is the most peaceful time to enjoy what is arguably the most beautiful park in London. Before 11am you’re likely to cross paths only with dog-walkers or pedestrians on their way to work. Seek out the glorious formal beds and classical fountains of the Avenue Gardens, Queen Mary’s Gardens, for a riot of roses, and the Boating Lake, home to many unusual water fowl.

A Morning Concert at Wigmore Hall From £10, including coffee, sherry or juice (see also p122)

Sundays at Columbia Road Market www.columbia-flower-market.freewebspace.com (Map 5 F4; see also p161)

From 8am to 2pm on Sundays, a short East End terrace is transformed into a vibrant strip of shrubs and flowers, enlivened by the enthusiastic vendors. There are also some stylish shops, including Angela Flanders’ perfumery at No. 96. Snack on fried prawns from Lee’s Sea Foods (No.134), or stop for breakfast at Perennial (Nos. 110–12).

Since this opulent yet intimate recital hall opened in 1901, some of the world’s greatest musicians have played under its painted cupola. The Sunday Coffee Concerts are a civilized way to ease into the day. For a deeply relaxing experience, you can opt for a pre-lunch sherry.

Browsing the British Museum Great Russell St (Map 9 F2; see also p98)

On a fine day, sunlight streams through the curved steel-and-glass roof into the capacious Great Court at the centre of the “BM”. The Court is huge and never

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TOP CHOICES –

afternoon

Afternoons can be as busy or as lazy as you like. During the week, the pedestrian traffic in the centre thins out a bit after the lunchtime rush. This is the perfect time for a guided walking tour, to gain an informed perspective on the city. Many of London’s cultural riches are free – the lunchtime recitals in a number of churches are a wonderful way to take in the beautiful architecture, and you can gallery-hop in hip Hoxton before hitting the bars. On weekend afternoons, the streets are thick with shoppers. If the crowds get too much, you may want to duck into a serene spa for some peace and quiet, or take part in time-honoured British rituals: go to a football match, tuck into a Sunday roast at one of the many excellent gastropubs, or take high tea at a chic hotspot or a grand hotel.

Summer Swimming at Brockwell Lido Brockwell Park, Dulwich Road, SE24, 020 7274 3088, www.brockwelllido.com • 1 Brixton

A 15-minute walk from the Tube station, “Brixton Beach”, as Brockwell Lido swimming pool is affectionately known, is a little summertime oasis. On any sunny day, the place gets packed by mid-afternoon, and especially at weekends, when the people-watching factor is at its most fascinating. Different social groups gravitate towards different areas of the terrace surrounding the big blue pool. Families with kids are at one end; topless bathers at the other. A gay enclave is easily spotted by the finest tans and tiniest swimwear. Everyone gets along fine, enjoying the sunshine and occasionally cooling off with a dip.

London (a tour of the Inns of Court) on Mondays and Fridays, and Christopher Wren’s London on Tuesdays.

Sundays around Spitalfields Spitalfields Market (Map 11 F1; see also p161)

This energetic part of town in and around Spitalfields Market, with cool stalls and food outlets, is abuzz on Sundays. Nearby, in Fournier, Fashion and Princelet streets, there are beautifully restored early 18th-century Georgian terraces, and Hawksmoor’s Christ Church.

A Guided Tour The Original London Walks, 020 7624 3978, www.walks.com

Get an insider’s view of London on a walking tour led by someone in the know. The Original London Walks boasts leading archaeologists and historians among its guides and operates at least a dozen walks every day. Intriguing afternoon offerings include Legal and Illegal

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Lunchtime Recitals in London’s Churches www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org, www.st-james-piccadilly.org, www.stmarylebow.co.uk, www.stbrides.com; see p226 for all

For an uplifting lunchtime experience, attend a free recital at one of London’s lovely churches. You could catch an up-and-coming soloist, a touring choir, or a student ensemble from one of the prestigious conservatories. St Martin-in-the-Fields in Trafalgar Square, where Handel

To find more guided walks in London, check out

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once performed, has been hosting lunchtime concerts for 50 years. St James’s (Piccadilly) and St Mary-le-Bow and St Brides (both in the City) are others. (See also p169.)

Off to the Football Hackney Marshes • £ Homerton • 020 8986 8615

Forget Arsenal, Chelsea, Spurs or even Fulham. To see what English football was about before corporate sponsors and inflated wages, head for Hackney Marshes on a Sunday. There you’ll find 87 full-size pitches – the largest concentration in Europe. The quality of ’‘footie” skills is patchy and diverse, but passions run as high as at any Premiership game.

Revive at Porchester Spa Queensway, W2 (see p170)

This original Art Deco spa offers pampering on a shoestring. Relax and revitalize in its Turkish hot rooms, Russian steam rooms, Jacuzzi and pool for under £20, or indulge in a body treatment from as little as £10. To save your blushes, there are specific days for men, women and mixed couples.

A Sunday Roast Recent years have seen a resurgence in the traditional English “Sunday Roast” – a joint of beef, lamb or pork, with roast potatoes, Yorkshire pudding, veg and gravy. London’s gastropubs offer some good updated versions of the meal, which can be washed down with a decent ale or lager. Try the Lansdowne (see p51); The House in Islington (see p49); or The Lock Tavern (see p152), which sources its meat from London’s finest butchers.

Afternoon Tea Sketch: 9 Conduit St (Map 8 D3), 0870 777 4488; Inn the Park, St James’s Park (9 F5), 020 7451 9999; The Wolseley (see p32)

For alternatives to the chintz and hushed tones that accompany tea in the posh hotels, try The Parlour at Sketch, with its minimalist Louis XIV furniture and arty little pastries. For a more classic afternoon tea, book at The Wolseley. On a fine day, take tea at Inn the Park or the Orangery in Kensington Gardens (see p170).

Sunday Double Bills at the Electric Electric Cinema (Map 6 D3; see p123)

Don’t wait for a rainy afternoon to slope off to the restored Edwardian splendour of the Electric Cinema. The Sunday Double Bill is excellent value. Book a 2-seater sofa to see the picture, and have brunch before the screening at the Electric Brasserie.

East London’s Galleries www.newexhibitions.com

Any afternoon between Thursday and Sunday is good for visiting the substantial clutch of contemporary art galleries in East London. Have a trawl through listings on the new exhibitions website, or pick up a printed copy (with map) at the first gallery you see. Aside from those in Hoxton (see p162), check out galleries near Victoria Park (nearest Tube: Bethnal Green), which primarily showcase up-and-coming artists from the UK and Europe. Look out for Vilma Gold, Wilkinson Gallery and the Showroom; and don’t miss The Approach (art upstairs, pub downstairs). For contact info, see p225.

Most commercial art galleries in London are closed on Mondays

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TOP CHOICES –

evening

London notches up a gear in the early evening as everyone streams out of work and heads to the myriad pubs, bars and restaurants. A prevailing mood of fitting it all in before last orders gives evening London a very buzzy feel, as a 10 o’clock stroll through partying crowds in Soho will attest. Although central London is packed with entertainments, many Londoners prefer the less in-your-face vibe in neighbourhoods at the edges of the central zone. Clerkenwell, Islington and Notting Hill have great restaurants, pubs and cultural venues that are well worth seeking out, while in East London, you’ll find a blossoming scene that caters to a hip, arty crowd. The city has an undeniable pub culture, but a quieter, more sophisticated London does exist; you just need to look a little bit harder to find it.

Down the Pub See pp134–5 for our selection of the best pubs in the city

Old favourites for after-work drinks include Soho haunts such as the Coach & Horses (29 Greek St), the Dog & Duck (18 Bateman St) the Sun & Thirteen Cantons (21 Great Pulteney St), and Covent Garden’s Lamb & Flag (see p137), where patrons spill out onto the street on summer evenings. Clerkenwell Green (Map 10 A1) is another superb spot for an evening’s drinking; the Three Kings, Crown Tavern, Horseshoe and Dovetail are all situated around a pleasant square. After the last orders bell rings, the drinkers exit the bars either to head home or to move on to clubland.

Museum Late-Nights Tate Modern (see p111); V&A (see p102)

Having the cavernous converted Bankside Power Station to yourself is a real luxury, and that’s pretty

much what you get on Friday and Saturday evenings, when Tate Modern is open until 10pm. The decorative arts museum, the V&A, is open until 10pm on Wednesdays, and on the last Friday of every month a special late event is staged: everything from high fashion to turntablists can be seen among the ancient art. It’s truly atmospheric.

A Stroll in Hyde Park 1 Hyde Park Corner (Map 8 C5)

With the late evening sun casting long shadows over the grass, this is a lovely time to take a walk in any of London’s central parks. Hyde Park in particular draws strollers, picnickers and sporty types, who make use of long summer evenings for ad-hoc games of baseball or football. End your walk at the Blue Bar, across busy Knightsbridge (see p142), or seek out the Nag’s Head (see p141), one of two great pubs on Kinnerton Street.

Greyhound Racing Walthamstow Stadium (see p126)

“Going down the dogs” has made a comeback as a top night out, and “The Stow” – an Art Deco classic – is the place to go. Six greyhounds run 400- and 800-metre races, chasing a fake rabbit that zips along a rail; you can bet on any dog, but not the rabbit, alas. Punters quaff pints and eat scampi’n’chips in the Popular Enclosure, or sup wine and dine on steaks above the track in the Paddock Grill. Either way, the focus of the evening is on betting – but with stakes starting as low as 50p, the excursion need not cost you a mint.

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Early Club Nights

Oysters and Champagne

www.clubbing.com

Bibendum Oyster Bar at The Conran Shop (see p78); Randall & Aubin: 16 Brewer St, W1 (Map 9 E3)

The Social on Little Portland Street (see p140) was one of the first London venues to offer easy-going Sunday afternoon events. Now several club sessions kick off as early as 5pm every weekend. Check out 93 Feet East (see p148), Cherry Jam (see p141), the Notting Hill Arts Club (see p144) and Cargo (see p146).

Start your evening with a flourish! The Fulham Road Conran Shop is open until 7pm three nights a week, allowing an afternoon’s shopping to drift seamlessly into an evening’s light indulgence at the Bibendum Oyster Bar. Over in Soho, Randall & Aubin provides a vibrant, Parisian atmosphere in which to enjoy some crustacea and bubbly and set yourself up for a fun night out.

Great British Comedy www.chortle.co.uk

London’s comedy clubs are lively affairs, with the banter swinging between performers of all descriptions and frequently raucous audiences. The Comedy Store (see p121) and Jongleurs (see p128) are established venues, but it’s worth investigating the comedy pubs (see website above), where the atmosphere is often a tad more spiky.

A Pint and a Play Old Red Lion: 418 St John St (Map 4 A4); King’s Head (see p127); Orange Tree: 1 Clarence Street • £ Richmond

Dark, creaking spaces in the back rooms of pubs provide the most intimate of performance venues for up-andcoming playwrights, actors on the fringe of the fringe and even a big name sometimes. Islington has several theatre bars, including the Old Red Lion and the King’s Head, the oldest theatre pub in London. In Richmond (about 30 minutes by Tube or train from central London), the Orange Tree is a wonderful theatre in the round.

South Bank Promenade Evening Cocktails

From Waterloo Bridge to Shad Thames (see also p164)

Fifth Floor Restaurant, Harvey Nichols (Map 14 B1); No.1 Aldwych (see p136); Blue Bar (see p142)

The South Bank riverside path is relatively free of crowds on weekdays before sunset. Walking eastwards, you’ll pass the National Theatre, Tate Modern and GLA building. At dusk, the city takes on a golden hue, with Canada Tower blazing orange on the eastern skyline.

With Harvey Nichols open until 8pm on Wednesdays, it would be a crime not to take advantage of the wonderful bar at its Fifth Floor Restaurant. The hotel Lobby Bar at No.1 Aldwych is excellent for cocktails and classy snacks. For maximum style, though, saunter over to the Blue Bar in Knightsbridge, where celebrities socialize.

Cutting-Edge Culture at the ICA ICA, The Mall (see p96)

Occupying a regal John Nash terrace, the Institute of Contemporary Arts is a wellspring of the avant-garde within a stone’s throw of Buckingham Palace. Two tiny cinemas feature art-house and foreign-language films. There are talks and music events in the evenings, and a lively bar that stays open pretty late.

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TOP CHOICES –

night

Glamorous, cultured, raucous, seedy… After dark, the metropolis pulses with nightlife in many guises. Soho is the nocturnal epicentre, with a high concentration of places to eat and drink. Pubs are packed to capacity, spilling out onto the narrow streets, and all-night cafés offer a ringside view of unfolding dramas. The pubs may close early (11pm), but, if you’re prepared to pay a cover charge, the evening doesn’t have to end there. Soak up the cool vibe at a quintessential jazz joint, catch a risqué cabaret, or head east for switched-on nightclubs. Londoners often counteract alcoholic excesses with a fiery curry, or a salt beef bagel at the all-night bakery in Brick Lane. For more refined entertainments, the arts complex on the South Bank may not be aesthetically pleasing, but it is unrivalled for cultural events.

programme of classical, contemporary and world music and dance. Although currently closed for refurbishment, the Queen Elizabeth Hall and the Purcell Room remain open and resident orchestras will play there instead.

Candlelit Visits Dennis Severs’ House (Mon; see p104); Sir John Soane’s Museum (first Tue of month; see p97)

The London Eye at Sunset 0870 5000 600, www.ba-londoneye.com (Map 9 G5) Open 9:30am–10pm summer, 9:30am–8pm winter

A glass capsule on the world’s largest observation wheel is the perfect vantage point for watching the sun set over London’s landmarks, as you gently revolve at a speed of 0.26 m (about 10 inches) per second. From the top, at 135 m (443 ft), the view stretches 25 miles in every direction – as far as Windsor Castle. As darkness falls, illuminated buildings including St Paul’s Cathedral and the Houses of Parliament create a romantic panorama.

Concerts on the South Bank Royal Festival Hall, South Bank SE1 (Map 9 H4), 0870 401 8181 www.rfh.org.uk (see also p129)

As well as showcasing two resident orchestras, the London Philharmonic and the Philharmonia Orchestra, the 3,000-seat Royal Festival Hall presents a diverse

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Two of the most curious and atmospheric houses in London both offer candlelit viewings. The aim is to recreate the mood of the past, when flickering yellow light and darting shadows characterised the ambience in these houses. In the light of a flame, Soane’s classical sculptures seem to shimmer and shake, and the building seems even more labyrinthine. At Dennis Severs’ House, the candlelight enhances an atmosphere already strong with scents of fruit and lavender, and the ghostly sound of voices, seemingly in the next room.

Clubbing in Shoreditch & Clerkenwell Shoreditch and Clerkenwell currently have London’s best concentration of dance clubs. At the hardcore techno and house end of the spectrum is Turnmills (see p146). Fabric (see p145) charts a funkier path, with Craig Richards at the decks, joined by guests such as Roots Manuva. It also hosts regular live dance music nights. Club 333 (see p147) gets really wild on Saturdays, joining forces with its upstairs neighbour Mother for some trippy trance or jazz-inflected house rhythms. For an easy-going vibe and inventive musical concoctions, you can’t beat Herbal (see p147), especially on an Eastern Drum and Breaks night.

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Bagels and Curries on Brick Lane Brick Lane Beigel Bake: 159 Brick Lane; Café Naz: 46–8 Brick Lane, 020 7247 0234; City Spice: 138 Brick Lane, 020 7247 1012; Le Taj: 134 Brick Lane, 020 7247 4210 (Maps 5 F5 & 11 F1)

Late Night Jazz Ronnie Scott’s: 47 Frith Street (see p121); Jazz Café: 5 Parkway (see p127)

Ronnie Scott’s in Soho is the archetypal smoky jazz joint, with quirky, tiered seating, cramped tables, and photos of the legends who’ve played there covering every inch of wall space. Further north, in Camden, the Jazz Café is slicker and more spacious, the music is funkier and the food is better. At both, it’s advisable to book a table.

The yellow and red sign of the Beigel Bake marks a little gathering point throughout the day and night (it’s open 24 hours) for everyone from cabbies picking up a quick snack to old Jewish residents of the area to clubbers getting a bite to eat in the early hours. You can buy a freshly baked bagel, with classic fillings such as salt beef and mustard or smoked salmon and cream cheese, for less than £2. Brick Lane is also famous for its curry houses. You’ll find better Indian cuisine elsewhere, but the lively atmosphere along this narrow strip of road, with its bright neon signage, makes up for culinary shortfalls. As a stomach-filler after a few drinks, an inexpensive curry at somewhere like Café Naz, City Spice or Le Taj is just the ticket. (For more on Brick Lane, see p160.)

Espresso at Bar Italia 22 Frith Street W1, 020 7437 4520, www.baritaliasoho.co.uk

DJ Bar-Hopping Much of London’s dance music scene is now concentrated in its DJ bars. Typically, such bars get going earlier than clubs, at around 9pm, and close at 2–3am. The music is eclectic, sometimes just creating a background vibe (as at the Medicine Bar and Lock Tavern, see pp150 & 152). These bars attract a clientele in their 20s and 30s. But at somewhere like Brixton’s Dogstar (see p154), the crowd tends to be younger, mostly 20-somethings, and the dancing is full-on at weekends.

Late Night Screenings at the Ritzy

Grab a seat outside this 24-hour Soho institution, sip a strong espresso and watch the circus go by. After the pubs and clubs close, it’s jam-packed with people who want to keep the party going – or soak up the alcohol with a panini. You never know whom you might meet, but keep a firm grip on your bag or wallet.

Brixton Oval (see p131), www.picturehouses.co.uk

While most London cinemas have their final screenings at around 9pm, the Ritzy keeps its lights on for an 11:30pm showing on Fridays and Saturdays. Its programme includes a good mix of mainstream, independent and international films.

The Whoopee Club www.thewhoopeeclub.com

The producers of this arty burlesque extravaganza put on regular shows at venues around London, with themes such as Victorian valentines and 1940s film noir. Strippers in retro tasselled pasties, contortionists and camp cabaret acts perform and pose in postmodernist tableaux. The audience gets into the spirit too, sporting outfits that rival the stars’ costumes.

New club nights are often advertised through flyers and posters in record shops or on the street

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restaurants London’s gastronomic scene is booming. The range of places to eat and the diversity of cuisines on offer are rivalled only by New York. The quality of cooking is something to write home about, too, especially at top-end restaurants. Prices are high if you want to sample the work of famous chefs, but there are excellent choices in all price ranges if you know where to look and what to order.

TOP CHOICES –

restaurants

BEST BRITISH CUISINE

ROMANTIC SETTINGS

GASTROPUBS

Lindsay House

The Cow

21 Romilly Street, W1

89 Westbourne Park Road, W2

Superlative service plus Richard Corrigan’s inventive British/Irish cuisine equals a gourmet’s delight. (See p26)

You’ve seen the film, now hang out with the hip young things of Notting Hill in this characterful pub, which serves great food. (See p160)

Fish Central

The Crown

149–51 Central Street, EC1

116 Cloudesley Road, N1

The setting may be sleek, but this City favourite serves up some of the best (and best-value) fish and chips in town. (See p45)

www.toptable.co.uk is a useful site for listings, reviews and information about London restaurants.

Cheery, cosy and thoroughly relaxed, the Crown is the sort of place you go to for lunch and settle into for a whole afternoon.(See p151)

Rules

Andrew Edmunds

The Eagle

35 Maiden Lane, WC2

46 Lexington Street, W1

159 Farringdon Road, EC1

London’s oldest restaurant is an atmospheric, Dickensian shrine to perfect roast meats, game and classic puddings. (See p30)

Cramped it may be, but there’s something unbeatably romantic about this long-established, friendly Soho bistro. (See p24)

The pub that started the gastropub phenomenon is still a frontrunner. Tuck into great grills and chat with the Clerkenwell crowd. (See p44)

St John

Oxo Tower Restaurant, Bar & Brasserie

Some gastropubs are more restaurant than pub, and have prices that reflect this. Be prepared to book.

26 St John Street, EC1

A stark former smokehouse provides a great setting for strippeddown “nose to tail” eating. It’s carnivore heaven. (See p46)

Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House St, SE1

Sweeping views over the Thames provide a spectacular backdrop for fine dining. (See p54)

J Sheekey 28–32 St Martin’s Court, WC2

With its faultless food, seductive decor and effortless service, J Sheekey oozes class. A perfect venue for a discreet date. (See p31)

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Odette’s

The House

130 Regent’s Park Road, NW1

63–9 Canonbury Road, N1

Awash with gilded mirrors and candlelight, Odette’s is a great spot for contemporary food combined with old-fashioned charm. (See p50)

The quality of food at this superb Islington gastropub puts most restaurants to shame. A must for weekend brunch. (See p49)

Find reviews of thousands more London restaurants with

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TOP CHOICES – A QUICK BITE

AROUND THE WORLD

restaurants ON THE CHEAP

Hakkasan

Lisboa Patisserie

Navarro’s

8 Hanway Place, W1

57 Golborne Road, W10

67 Charlotte Street, W1

With an interior out of a design magazine and heavenly food, Hakkasan sets new standards for London’s Chinese restaurants. (See p27)

Come to this vibrant Portuguese place to sip strong coffee and nibble prime pastries. (See p42)

Bright and bustling, Navarro’s is one of the best spots in the capital to find authentic (and authentically priced) tapas. (See p28)

Tsunami

Viet Hoa

5–7 Voltaire Road, SW4

70–72 Kingsland Road, E2

Super-stylish and one of London’s most exquisite dining experiences, with magnificent Japaneseinfluenced food. (See p54)

Don’t expect decorative frills; do expect culinary thrills. The Vietnamese food at this Hoxton canteen is the real deal. (See p48)

The Providores/Tapa Room

Patisserie Valerie

Café Emm

109 Marylebone High Street, W1

44 Old Compton Street, W1

17 Frith Street, W1

Pan-global fusion food at its most inventive. Snack and sip on the ground floor, or go for a full blowout in the restaurant. (See p35)

Indulgent cakes and pastries to die for are the primary draws at one of Soho’s oldest and best-loved classic cafés. (See p26)

Proof that it’s possible to get good, filling fare in a lively Soho atmosphere without breaking the bank. (See p25)

Brick Lane, in the East End, is good for a late-night curry (see p19). However, for authentic, ultra-cheap Indian food, hop on a train west to Southall, the heart of London’s Punjabi community.

Paul

Tas

29 Bedford Street, WC2

33 The Cut, SE1

A little slice of Paris in London. Pop in to Paul for toothsome tarts, flans, galettes and salads, and plenty of Gallic bonhomie. (See p29)

A lively vibe, contemporary setting, willing service, and affordable Turkish grills and meze. (See p53)

Moro

Conveyor-belt restaurants such as Yo! Sushi and Itsu offer a healthy form of fast food.

34–6 Exmouth Market, EC1

Embracing the best of North African and Spanish cuisine, this ever-hip eaterie makes ta virtue out of simplicity. (See p44)

Mô

S&M Café

23 Heddon Street, W1

268 Portobello Road, W10

Take tea and sample choice North African snacks in this Ali Baba’s cave of a café, which is more Marrakesh than Mayfair. (See p34)

Superlative sausages, mash and gravy are served in various seasonings. First-rate comfort food at bargain-basement prices. (See p42)

Gastropubs are pubs that serve good, sometimes excellent, modern cuisine

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Restaurants Andrew Edmunds

modern European

9 E3

46 Lexington Street, W1 • 020 7437 5708 Open lunch & dinner daily

Dark and discreet, this long-time Soho stalwart is a seductive spot for contemporary cuisine. The crowdpleasing food embraces the classics, such as a perfect lamb steak with flageolet beans. Seating is a bit cramped, and the room can be noisy, but the service is breezily relaxed. Moderate

Bodean’s

North American barbecue

9 E3

10 Poland Street, W1 • 020 7287 7575 www.bodeansbbq.com Restaurant open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, noon–11pm Sat; diner open all day

Billing itself as “London’s Original BBQ Smoke House”, Bodean’s is a classy US-style barbecue, featuring prime char-grilled steaks, racks of baby back ribs and smoked chicken. The ground floor is a casual eat-in/takeaway sports bar; the basement is more formal. Moderate

Donzoko

rare Japanese delights

9 E3

15 Kingly Street, W1 • 020 7734 1974 Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner Sat

This modest Japanese eaterie is one of Soho’s hidden gems. It’s a friendly, bustling izakaya-style joint (an informal pub-restaurant), with a counter along one side and a long menu taking in all the greatest hits of Japanese cuisine. The aubergine fried with garlic and soybean paste is sublime. Cheap

Mar i Terra

superior Spanish

9 E3

17 Air Street, W1 • 020 7734 1992 www.mariterra.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, noon–11pm Sat

Spanish food can move with the times. The décor here is clean and contemporary; the service cheery and unfussy. The menu lists Iberian classics alongside more unusual delights, such as stuffed peppers with crab, and Catalan grilled vegetable salad. Cheap

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www.elondon.dk.com

Centre Wong Kei

legendary cheap Chinese

9 E3

41–43 Wardour Street, W1 • 020 7437 8408 Open noon–11pm daily (to 10:30pm Sun)

A capacious restaurant with oddly decorated rooms on many floors, Wong Kei revels in its reputation of having the rudest service in Chinatown. And yet it continues to pull in the punters thanks to a lively atmosphere, seriously low prices and unexpectedly fine roast meats. Great fun with a crowd. Cheap

Thyme

Covent Garden sophistication

9 G2

The Hospital, Endell St, WC2 • 020 7170 9200 www.thymeandspace.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat

The transfer of the highly acclaimed Thyme Restaurant from South London to Covent Garden’s hospital site has transformed the operation into an altogether more sophisticated affair with beautifully crafted dishes, grown-up surroundings and superb service. Expensive

ECapital

Chinatown oasis

9 F3

8 Gerrard Street, W1 • 020 7434 3838 Open noon–11:30pm daily (to midnight Fri & Sat)

Few Chinatown restaurants offer distinctive cuisine, but ECapital is an exception: here you’ll find a rare highquality offering of rich-sweet-oily food from China’s east coast. It’s worth asking the staff to translate the Chinese menu to find the most interesting dishes, such as “lion’s head meatball casserole”. Cheap

Café Emm

hearty international fodder

9 F3

17 Frith Street, W1 • 020 7437 0723 www.cafeemm.com Open lunch & dinner daily (to 11:30pm Fri & Sat)

It’s hard to beat Café Emm for value, atmosphere and good, filling grub. Dishes include cajun potato skins, deep-fried brie, hearty lamb shanks, calamari, pecan pie and tiramisu, and all come in huge portions, served up by smiling staff in a fun environment. Cheap Expensive: over £15 for a main course; moderate: £8–15; cheap: under £8

25

Restaurants Lindsay House

modern British

9 F3

21 Romilly Street, W1 • 020 7439 0450 www.lindsayhouse.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat

Irishman Richard Corrigan is a real chef’s chef – while many of his peers play the media game, he sticks resolutely to fashioning imaginative dishes in the kitchen. The results show just how good creative British/Irish cuisine can be in the right hands. The restaurant, set in a 1740s Georgian townhouse, is as understated as the man himself. Ring the bell to be let in, and you’ll be shown to one of various small dining spaces. The gracious staff might be serving up globe artichoke, Cornish crab and parsley dressing, followed perhaps by saddle of rabbit, black pudding, polenta and confit garlic, and then glazed apple turnover with caramel and prunes to finish. If your wallet can bear the strain, consider the seven-course tasting menu in order to sample Corrigan’s finest creations. Expensive

Patisserie Valerie

café for cakes

9 F3

44 Old Compton Street, W1 • 020 7437 3466 www.patisserie-valerie.co.uk Open 7:30am–8:30pm Mon–Fri, 9am–9pm Sat, 9am–7pm Sun

A Soho legend, the original Patisserie Valerie opened in neighbouring Frith Street in 1926 and moved to Old Compton Street after World War II. The cramped interior is a 1950s Parisian time warp, with a cake-stuffed glass counter at the front, a high ceiling, Formica tables and Toulouse-Lautrec cartoons on the walls; there’s also a brighter, airier 50-seat first-floor café. Snacks, light meals and a fine breakfast are served, but it’s the sweet stuff that’s the main draw. Resistance is useless against the likes of pear william franzipan tart, mixed berry mousse, fresh fruit flan, and chocolate, strawberry and banana gateaux – not to mention the handmade truffles. Such indulgences and Valerie’s unique atmosphere draw in a mixed crowd of local office workers, students, tourists and the few remaining louche Soho habitués. Cheap

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Centre Red Fort

noble Indian

9 F3

77 Dean Street, W1 • 020 7437 2115 www.redfort.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner Sat

For top-notch traditional northern Indian cooking in central London, you can’t beat the Red Fort. The opulent setting (including a water feature) helps prepare you for the richness and depth of Mughal court cuisine. Chef Mohammed Rais’ lamb biriani follows a 300-year-old family recipe. Expensive

Eagle Bar Diner

North American

9 F2

3–5 Rathbone Place, W1 • 020 7637 1418 www.eaglebardiner.com Open noon–11pm Mon–Sat (to 1am Thu–Sat), 11am–6pm Sun

A hip, all-day haven from the chaos of Oxford Street. The Eagle’s remit stretches from breakfast to latenight cocktails, taking in first-rate burgers and grills, salads and sandwiches along the way. The look is New York chic, but the service is friendly. Cheap

Hakkasan

Chinese of the highest order

9 F2

8 Hanway Place, W1 • 020 7907 1888 Open lunch & dinner daily; bar noon–12:30am daily (to 1:30 Sat)

It’s no exaggeration to say that Hakkasan has redefined Chinese dining in London – combining stunning design with exceptional high-quality Chinese cuisine. This airy basement restaurant and bar is the creation of Alan Yau, the man behind Wagamama (see p43), but couldn’t be more different from the noodle bar chain in terms of atmosphere (and prices). The seductive interior is a cunning contemporary take on chinoiserie – all dark wood, lattice work and candle light. The Michelin-star-winning food shows off the full range and depth of China’s varied cuisines. Savour beautifully balanced dishes such as roast pork with red rice, ginger and Shao Hsing wine, or roasted silver cod with champagne and Chinese honey. Even clichéd standards such as sesame prawn toast are exemplary. Prices are high, but for a splurge you can’t beat Hakkasan. Expensive Lunch at London restaurants is typically served noon–3pm; dinner 6:30pm–10:30pm

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Restaurants Rasa Samudra

Keralan home cooking

9 E1

5 Charlotte Street, W1 • 020 7637 0222 www.rasarestaurants.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat, dinner only Sun

Das Sreedharan has firmly placed the delicate cuisine of Kerala in southwest India on the London restaurant map. The first Rasa (55 Stoke Newington Church Street, N16) opened in 1994, specializes in Keralan vegetarian cooking. Rasa W1 (6 Dering Street) offers a range of dishes, including meat, from northern Kerala; and the speciality at this branch is seafood. In a maze of smart, pink-clad little rooms, you can experience such little-seen delights as murukku (crunchy rice-flour sticks) with home-made pickles and chutneys, Keralan shellfish soup, crab thoran (the chef’s grandmother’s recipe for crab stir-fried with coconut, mustard seeds and ginger) and kappayum meenum (spicy king fish and steamed cassava). If you can’t make up your mind, order a set feast, either seafood or vegetarian. Moderate

Fino

modern tapas

9 E2

33 Charlotte St, W1 (entrance: Rathbone St) • 020 7813 8010 www.finorestaurant.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat

Sleek, sassy and contemporary, Fino is a light, airy tapas restaurant and cocktail bar in which tortilla, Galician-style octopus and other classics are cooked with conviction and presented with flair. It has fine sherries and a globe-trotting wine list. Moderate

Navarro’s

traditional Spanish

9 E1

67 Charlotte Street, W1 • 020 7637 7713 www.navarros.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner Sat

The interior is a riot of Andalucian tiling and painted furniture, while the menu features some of the capital’s most unusual Spanish dishes. Savour, for example, the velvety, piquant grilled chicken with prawns in an oloroso sherry and paprika sauce. This gem of a place is favoured by many hispanophile Londoners. Cheap

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To locate London’s vegetarian restaurants, check

www.elondon.dk.com

Centre Sardo

pasta & other Italian classics

9 E1

45 Grafton Way, W1 • 020 7387 2521 www.sardo-restaurant.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat

No-nonsense, squeaky-fresh Sardinian specialities are presented in a bright, simply decorated space. Try the likes of spaghetti bottariga (with dried mullet roe) or grilled steak topped with Sardinian blue cheese, served by delightful, knowledgeable staff. Moderate

Matsuri

Japanese fun

9 H2

71 High Holborn, WC1 • 020 7430 1970 www.matsuri-restaurant.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat

The team behind the acclaimed Matsuri in St James’s opened this more modern sister restaurant in 2002. The sashimi (raw fish) and teppanyaki (grills) are as authentically Japanese as you’ll find in London. If you’re on a budget, try a lunchtime bento box; otherwise, the set menus are excellent. Expensive

Rock and Sole Plaice

fish & chips

9 G3

47 Endell Street, WC2 • 020 7836 3785 Open 11am–11:30pm Mon–Sat, noon–11pm Sun

Founded in 1871, this Covent Garden fish and chip shop has been run for the past 25 years by a Turkish Cypriot, though the menu is traditional British. Expect crisp, golden slabs of fish accompanied by mounds of chunky chips and mugs of steaming tea. You can eat in, sit at pavement tables in summer or take away. Cheap

Paul

French-style café

9 G3

29 Bedford Street, WC2 • 020 7836 3304 www.paul.fr Open 7:30am–9pm Mon–Fri, 9–9 Sat & Sun

You’ll find no more agreeable lunch stop around Covent Garden than this exemplary Gallic patisserie/ café. Exquisite breads, cakes, tarts and flans are sold in the shop, or you can enjoy big salads, omelettes or tartines (toasted bread with toppings) from the elegant café at the rear. Cheap A great place to enjoy a snack from Paul’s café is St Paul’s Churchyard, just off Bedford Street

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Restaurants Rules

British through & through

9 G3

35 Maiden Lane, WC2 • 020 7836 5314 www.rules.co.uk Open noon–11:30pm daily (to 10:30pm Sun)

Open continuously since 1798, and owned by just three families since then, Rules in Covent Garden is the capital’s oldest restaurant and it positively drips with history. Venerable diners have included William Makepeace Thackeray, Evelyn Waugh, Graham Greene, Charlie Chaplin and Clark Gable. The interior is a Victorian fantasy, with chandeliers and spectacular coloured-glass skylights illuminating walls lined with dark wood and crimson banquettes. Everywhere you look are portraits, pastoral scenes and animal trophies characteristic of the style of grand English country houses. The restaurant is particularly beautiful over Christmas, decked out in traditional ornaments. Altogether, there are three floors and several private dining rooms. One of the rooms is named after the best-known author of the

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Victorian era, Charles Dickens, who was himself a regular at this restaurant. However, what prevents Rules being a mere Dickensian pastiche are the slickness of its service and the supreme standard of its food. The menu is carnivore heaven, and one of the few places in London where you can sample superb game – especially wild duck and pheasant – much of which comes from Rules’ own estate, Lartington Hall Park, in the High Pennines. (You can sign up for a shooting party or fishing at the estate, if you already have experience.) Don’t believe there’s such a thing as high-quality traditional British cuisine? An indulgent meal here of, say, hare soup with armagnac, or Morecambe Bay potted shrimps, or roast young grouse with celeriac and damson sauce, or fillet of Highland venison with wild mushrooms and Chartreuse sauce is guaranteed to change your mind. Round off the experience with sticky toffee pudding oozing butterscotch and vanilla custard, or apple and blackberry crumble. Expensive

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Centre Hazuki

mid-range Japanese

9 G4

43 Chandos Place, WC2 • 020 7240 2530 www.sushihazuki.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat & Sun

Hazuki nimbly bridges the gap between pricey, formal Japanese restaurants and casual sushi bars. Its look is contemporary, its staff efficient, its food exemplary. Lunch dishes – such as grilled belly pork with rice and soup – are particularly good value. Moderate

J Sheekey

fish, pure & simple

9 F3

28–32 St Martin’s Court, WC2 • 020 7240 2565 www.caprice-holdings.co.uk Open lunch & dinner daily (to midnight)

If you despair of ever getting a table at The Ivy (see p34), fear not: its sister restaurant offers just as seductive a setting, sublime food and lovely service. The emphasis is on fish, and the ethos is to keep it simple. You won’t find a finer fish pie in London. Expensive

Cecconi’s

established Italian venue

9 E4

5A Burlington Gardens, W1 • 020 7434 1500 Open 8am–11pm Mon–Fri, 9am–11pm Sat, 9am–10pm Sun

A sleek thoroughbred of a restaurant, Cecconi’s manages to be both serious and fun, stylish yet relaxed. Though it’s been around for decades, thoughtful renovation has breathed new life into an old favourite. The great cocktail menu survives, as does classic Italian food using the freshest ingredients. Expensive

Le Caprice

classy comfort food

9 E4

Arlington House, Arlington Street, SW1 • 020 7629 2239 www.caprice-holdings.co.uk Open lunch & dinner daily

Le Caprice has been a famous name on the London dining scene for decades. There’s a 1980s monochrome bistro look to the décor, but the slick service and modern European dishes never disappoint. Their fish and chips with mushy peas is heavenly. Expensive

31

Restaurants

The Wolseley

fashionable all-day haunt

9 E4

160 Piccadilly, W1 • 020 7499 6996 www.thewolseley.com Open 7am–midnight Mon–Fri, 9am–midnight Sat & Sun (breakfast to 11:30am)

Chris Corbin and Jeremy King are the talented double act behind the sustained success of the exclusive Ivy (see p34) and Le Caprice (see p31) over the past decade or so. Their involvement with these twin pillars of the fashionable London preening-and-dining scene may now be over, but their newest venture has become just as essential a stop on the celebrity circuit. The Wolseley occupies the opulent 1920s former showroom of the eponymous car manufacturer. It has been made over to resemble a grand Mittel-European

32

café, with a high vaulted ceiling, black-and-white tiled floor and lashings of gilt and black coating the walls. Highly professional staff serve up the type of reliable mix-and-match international dishes that will be familiar to anyone who’s managed to bag a table at Le Caprice or The Ivy in the past, though there’s an additional hearty Central European slant here to match the surroundings. You could go for a spicy steak tartare, earthy cassoulet (meaty bean stew) or a superior hamburger, or head east for a wiener schnitzel, a Hungarian goulash or a German pancake-based dish called Kaiserschmarren. Perhaps the Wolseley’s greatest strength, however, is that it’s open all day, even offering breakfast and afternoon tea. Expensive www.elondon.dk.com

Centre Kiku

exceptionally good Japanese

8 D4

17 Half Moon Street, W1 • 020 7499 4208 www.kikurestaurant.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat, dinner only Sun

Decked out in light wood and with artful flower arrangements, this smart restaurant is a utilitarian stage for virtuoso Japanese cuisine. The sushi is exemplary, as is agedashi-dofu (deep-fried tofu and dried fish in a broth with grated ginger and Japanese radish). Expensive

Tamarind

tandoori as it should be

8 D4

20 Queen Street, W1 • 020 7629 3561 www.tamarindrestaurant.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat & Sun

This Michelin-starred restaurant shows just how varied and refined good Indian food can be. The menu’s heart is the tandoor oven, stalwart of northwest India, from which emerge stunning meats, game, fish and breads. Service is impeccable. Expensive

Kaya

rare Korean

8 D4

42 Albemarle Street, W1 • 020 7499 0622 Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat

The classiest of London’s Korean restaurants is a serene spot in which to experience the subtleties of this under-appreciated cuisine. Grilling your own food on a tabletop griddle is fun, or you can rely on the traditionally dressed staff to recommend piquant dishes seldom encountered outside Korea. Moderate

Patara Thai

taste of Thailand

8 D3

3 & 7 Maddox Street, W1 • 020 7499 6008 Open lunch & dinner daily

The handful of London branches of this upmarket Thai restaurant group offer an impressively authentic overview of one of Asia’s most versatile cuisines. Enjoy dishes such as black cod broth with ginger, or chicken and pork dumplings, against a restful backdrop of greenery and Thai antiques. Moderate

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Restaurants Al Sultan

Middle Eastern delicacies

8 C5

51–52 Hertford Street, W1 • 020 7408 1155/1166 www.alsultan.co.uk Open noon–midnight daily

For a taste of just how good high-class Lebanese cuisine can be, head for this discreet Mayfair restaurant near Hyde Park Corner. The chargrilled meats are superb, while the magnificent meze is thoroughly authentic, right down to the range of offal offered. Beid ghanam – lamb’s testicles – anyone? Moderate

Mômo/Mô

Moroccan restaurant/tearoom

9 E3

23 Heddon Street, W1 • 020 7434 4040 www.momoresto.com Restaurant open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat, dinner only Sun; tearoom open all day Mon–Sat

Mourad Mazouz’s fabulously theatrical restaurant, Mômo, is an expensive treat, but you can also enjoy a similar ambience next door in a tearoom-cum-bazaar. Sip a mint tea or a fresh fruit juice while nibbling on excellent sandwiches and meze. Expensive/Cheap

Golden Hind

perfect fish & chips

8 C2

73 Marylebone Lane, W1 • 020 7486 3644 Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat

The finest chippie in W1 has been serving up prime fish and chips since 1914. Bring your own booze (no corkage charge) and make an evening of it, with a big portion of moist, flaky haddock or cod, thinly coated in crisp batter, alongside perfect chips, mushy peas and home-made tartare sauce. Bliss. Cheap

The Hottest Tables in Town London’s premier restaurants are world-class. The problem for ordinary mortals is securing a table. It’s just possible that if you call on the day you might strike lucky; otherwise, you’ll need to book months in advance. Among these hallowed temples of gastronomy are: Locanda Locatelli, the superlative Italian run by the ebullient Giorgio Locatelli; Jamie

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Oliver’s much-publicised Fifteen; The Ivy, still the posh bistro of choice for most celebrities; even more fashionable Nobu, with its superb Japanese fusion menu; quite possibly London’s finest restaurant, Gordon Ramsay; and certainly the capital’s most expensive dining spot, gloriously over-the-top Sketch. For all restaurant contact details, see pp220–1.

To find out about the intricacies of tipping, check

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Centre Providores/Tapa Room

international

8 C1

109 Marylebone High Street, W1 • 020 7935 6175 www.theprovidores.co.uk Open lunch & dinner daily (brunch Sat & Sun); Tapa Room 9am–10:30pm daily (from 10am Sat & Sun)

New Zealander Peter Gordon helped introduce the concept of “fusion” food to London when he opened the much-lauded Sugar Club (see p25) in 1995. He remains one of the few chefs capable of consistently marrying diverse, pan-global ingredients harmoniously. The good work continues at the Providores, a tiny, simple dining space with an agreeably relaxed vibe, and a regularly changing menu that might include pork cheek braised with five spice, cardamom and Turkish chilli on chorizo mash with pickled okra, or roast New Zealand venison on black bean and chocolate stew with roast celeriac, green beans and quince aïoli. The ground-floor Tapa Room is a combination of wine bar, breakfast bar and tapas bar. The “Tapa” in question, though, is a ceremonial cloth used for celebratory feasts throughout the Pacific. Expensive

The Orrery

modern European/French

8 C1

55 Marylebone High Street, W1 • 020 7616 8000 www.orrery.co.uk Open lunch & dinner daily

Of all Sir Terence Conran’s London restaurants, the Orrery is probably the classiest act (it is also very expensive). This is a long, light, elegant dining space with arched windows overlooking Marylebone Parish Church gardens. The largely Gallic waiting staff are extremely attentive and happy to talk you through the French-leaning menu. An indulgent evening here might commence with seared sea scallops, pork belly and cauliflower, moving on to fillet of Scottish beef with slow-cooked oxtail, salsify (oyster plant) and red wine jus, before ending with a fondant of Amedei chocolate with milk ice cream. If you fancy something less than a full meal, head for the Orrery Epicerie (on the corner of Marylebone High Street and Beaumont Street), to find tasty breakfasts, light lunches and snacks, plus delicatessen products to take away. Expensive In London’s top restaurants, prices are more accessible for lunch than dinner

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Restaurants Phoenix Palace

a Chinese treat

8 B1

3–5 Glentworth Street, NW1 • 020 7486 3515 Open noon–11:30pm Mon–Sat, 11am–10:30pm Sun

You need to venture beyond Chinatown to find London’s best Chinese food. This smart Marylebone restaurant is one of the finest – as the number of Cantonese clients here testifies. If you’re feeling adventurous, try the monthly specials menu. The soup of the day is reliably tasty. Cheap

Original Tagines

North African

8 B2

7A Dorset Street, W1 • 020 7935 1545 www.originaltagines.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, all day Sat & Sun

If the scented, sweet-savoury allure of North African cuisine has passed you by, visit this restaurant. The eponymous tagines are excellent (and come in 11 versions – try the chicken with preserved lemon), as are the couscous dishes and grills. Moderate

La Galette

8 C1

French crêpes

56 Paddington Street, W1 • 020 7935 1554 www.lagalette.com Open 9am–11pm Mon–Fri, 10am–11pm Sat & Sun

An authentic Breton crêperie brings the thrifty delights of crêpes and galettes to a pricey part of town. Fill your cup with strong cider and dig in to a galette complète (ham, cheese, egg), followed by an indulgent crêpe with chestnut cream and crème Chantilly. Cheap

Maroush Gardens

Middle Eastern

8 A3

1–3 Connaught Street, W2 • 020 7262 0222 Branch: 21 Edgware Road • 020 7723 0773 www.maroush.com Open all day (noon–midnight) daily

This classy, sober spot is one of Marouf Abouzaki’s newer additions to the Maroush chain, and specializes in fish, though the classic Lebanese meze and grills are equally fine. The atmosphere is a little more refined than at livelier sibling Maroush I. Moderate

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Centre & West Cinnamon Club

creative Indian

15 F1

Old Westminster Library, Great Smith St, SW1 • 020 7222 2555 www.cinnamonclub.com Open breakfast, lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat

A spacious library has been sensitively transformed into one of London’s finest Indian restaurants. The original parquet flooring remains, as do some of the bookshelves, but they’ve been augmented by marble and stone imported from Rajasthan to create a lightfilled, spacious dining room. Vivek Singh’s menu combines Indian flavours with European culinary techniques, as, for instance, in the French-inspired use of sauce reductions. This results in exquisite dishes such as clove-smoked tartare of Charolais beef with pickled beetroot, tandoori breast of pheasant with spiced mushroom sauce, and saffron-poached pear with cinnamon ice cream. The restaurant’s proximity to the Houses of Parliament means that most of its clientele is curry-loving politicos and civil servants – but don’t let that put you off. Expensive

Foliage

exquisite modern European

8 B5

Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park Hotel, 66 Knightsbridge, SW1 • 020 7201 3723 www.mandarinoriental.com Open lunch & dinner daily

Some tables enjoy wonderful views out over Hyde Park, and the food is beyond reproach. Dishes such as roast saddle of rabbit, pithivier of wild mushrooms, asparagus, Alsace bacon and vanilla cream will leave you stumbling for superlatives. Expensive

Patogh

superior kebabs

8 A2

8 Crawford Place, W1 • 020 7262 4015 Open noon–midnight daily

It’s little more than a hole in the wall, but Patogh offers the most richly satisfying chargrilled meats in London. Choose from one of seven types of kebab, squeeze around one of the handful of tables and feast on a massive round of fresh flat bread, squeakyfresh salads and your meat of choice. Cheap

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Restaurants Noura

14 D1

meze to astonish

16 Hobart Place, SW1 • 020 7235 9444 www.noura-brasseries.co.uk Open noon–11pm daily

The glamorous atmosphere at this Lebanese restaurant reflects its posh Belgravia location, but it’s far from stuffy, and the quality of the food is superb. Grilled meats don’t come any finer, while the range of hot and cold meze cannot help but impress, with around 50 choices on offer. Moderate

Hunan

specialist Chinese

14 C3

51 Pimlico Road, SW1 • 020 7730 5712 Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat

London’s only restaurant specializing in the spicy cuisine of China’s westernmost province is a pint-size treat. Leave your preconceptions about Chinese set meals at the door and let the staff put together a feast for you that you’ll long remember. The stuffed baby squid with bitter melon is supreme. Moderate

Zuma

high-class sushi & more

14 A1

5 Raphael Street, SW7 • 020 7584 1010 www.zumarestaurant.com Open lunch & dinner daily

Zuma aims to provide a sophisticated metropolitan take on traditional Japanese izakaya-style (informal pub) dining. This being Knightsbridge, the result is resolutely upmarket, though far from snobby. The large dining room is clad in soothing earth tones, with wood-slat screens dividing up the space. If you’re popping in on a whim, you can sit at the sushi counter and watch expert chefs whip up a California maki roll or some choice sashimi for you. Or pick something like salt-grilled sea bass with burnt tomato ginger relish from the robata grill. The full menu includes Zuma specials like baby chicken marinated in barley miso and oven-roasted in cedar wood. The freshness and quality of ingredients are exemplary. If you merely fancy a drink, there’s a lounge and sake bar, which offers more than 20 types of sake as well as cocktails. Expensive

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West Zafferano

Italian greats

14 B1

15 Lowndes Street, SW1 • 020 7235 5800 Open lunch & dinner daily

Zafferano has long been recognized as one of the capital’s premier Italian restaurants. It’s a discreet place, where the emphasis is firmly on the food. Dishes such as risotto with white truffle and chargrilled lamb with aubergine allow the quality of the ingredients to shine through. Expensive

Racine

traditional French

14 A2

239 Brompton Road, SW3 • 020 7584 4477 Open lunch & dinner daily

This hugely popular French restaurant has made a virtue out of simplicity. The décor is ascetically plain and the food is a glorious throwback to the days of classic Gallic cuisine. Expect succulent daubes (braised meat stews) and marmites (pot soups). For the quality of the food, prices are a steal. Moderate

Tom Aikens

modern European creativity

14 A3

43 Elystan Street, SW3 • 020 7584 2003 Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri

Michelin-starred Tom Aikens made his name in the 1990s and is now undoubtedly one of the most gifted chefs working in London. The sober, masculine tones of the almost brutally plain décor of his eponymous restaurant leave diners in no doubt that this is a serious restaurant for serious foodies. Even if you balk at over-complex food, it’s hard not to admire the attention to detail and careful balancing of colour, texture and taste that distinguish his menu. A typical meal might start with basil-marinated scallops, courgettes and almond mousse, followed by pigeon steamed with thyme, chestnut velouté, cannelloni and soft lettuce, and crowned with pineapple roasted with vanilla and rum. If you can stretch to a blow-out, you won’t regret going for the tasting menu; those with smaller budgets can still eat like royalty with the set lunch. Expensive The Evening Standard’s Thursday supplement, Metro, has good restaurant and bar reviews

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Restaurants Tendido Cero

well-chosen tapas

13 G3

174 Old Brompton Road, SW5 • 020 7370 3685 www.cambiodetercio.com Open 11:30am–11pm daily

Much of the tapas in London tend to be lacklustre, but not so at Tendido Cero. This smart, sleek sibling of upmarket Iberian stalwart Cambio de Tercio across the road serves up the choicest Spanish cheeses, hams and charcuterie. There’s no drinks licence, so you have to bring your own alcohol. Moderate

The Painted Heron

Indian

13 H5

112 Cheyne Walk, SW10 • 020 7351 5232 www.thepaintedheron.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat

Yogesh Datta’s innovative, refined yet unfussy take on traditional Subcontinental cuisine is evident in dishes such as duck livers in tandoori spices, and spinach and partridge curry. The restaurant is as elegant and understated as the food. Moderate

Lots Road Pub

gastropub

13 G5

114 Lots Road, SW10 • 020 7352 6645 Open 11am–11pm daily (to 10:30pm Sun)

There may be a gastropub with airy, stripped-down décor on almost every corner these days, but this place remains one of the best. It’s the friendliness of the staff and the quality of the food that mark it out; the ingredients are supremely fresh. You won’t find a better burger in London. Moderate

Chutney Mary

intimate Indian

13 G5

535 King’s Road, SW10 • 020 7351 3113 www.realindianfood.com Open lunch & dinner Sat & Sun, dinner only Mon–Fri

A stylish makeover of restaurant and menu confirmed Chutney Mary as both a beacon of Indian culinary excellence and a chic, romantic spot. The pan-Indian menu exploits the depth and range of the country’s cuisine, and service is impeccable. Expensive

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West

The River Café

inspirational Italian

12 A5

Thames Wharf, Rainville Road, W6 • 020 7386 4200 www.rivercafe.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat, lunch only Sun

No London restaurant has had more influence on both restaurant food and (with the spawning of five books) home cooking than the River Café. When Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers opened up in 1987, most Italian eateries were stuck in a 1970s candle-in-a-chianti-bottle time warp. Their versions of simple Italian regional dishes, carefully sourced and immaculately prepared, were revelatory, and inspired a string of talented chefs who worked in their kitchen – Jamie Oliver among them

The Gate

vegetarian

(see Fifteen on p34). The restaurant’s appeal remains undimmed today. You do, though, pay heavily for the privilege, with few main courses under £25.The prices and ambience are not café-style. A typical spring menu might include char-grilled marinated leg of lamb with fresh borlotti beans, Swiss and rainbow chard, and anchovy and rosemary sauce. The relatively stark, utilitarian dining space was designed by architect Richard Rogers (Ruth’s husband) within converted 19th-century warehouses. Its floorto-ceiling windows give access to a garden and the river beyond. To enjoy the restaurant to the full, try to book a table here in fine weather. Expensive

12 A3

51 Queen Caroline Street, W6 • 020 8748 6932 www.gateveg.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner Sat

For more than a decade, brothers Adrian and Michael Daniels have been running this classy, relaxed Hammersmith restaurant. The food they serve (aubergine schnitzel, Thai red curry) is so good that even devoted meat-eaters won’t feel hard done by. Ask for a table in the leafy courtyard. Moderate The majority of London restaurants include at least one vegetarian dish on the menu

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Restaurants Lisboa Patisserie

Portuguese café

6 C2

57 Golborne Road, W10 • 020 8968 5242 Open 8am–8pm Mon–Sat, 8am–7pm Sun

Today the heart of London’s sizeable Portuguese community may be south of the river around Stockwell and Vauxhall, but Notting Hill’s Golborne Road is home to one of the oldest and best-loved pastelarias in town. Such has been the success of Lisboa Patisserie that it has spawned a mini chain (currently numbering four branches) across the capital, but the original site is certainly the most fun to visit when the Portobello Road market (see p159) is in full swing. Portuguese cakes and tarts are the speciality, and come in an impressive range and at low prices; you won’t find better or more authentic cinnamon-topped pasteis de nata (custard tarts) in the city. Equally fabled are the bolos de arroz (rice cakes) and the castanhas de ovo (literally, “egg chestnut”, a sweet, eggy nugget). Savouries are sold too – try the pasteis de bacalhau (salt cod and potato cakes). Cheap

S&M Café

bangers ‘n’ mash

6 D3

268 Portobello Road, W10 • 020 8968 8898 Open 11am–11pm Mon–Thu, 9am–11pm Fri–Sun

Less is more at the Sausage & Mash Café, in terms of décor and menu. Choose your type of sausage (including veggie options), mash and gravy, and feast on the likes of wild boar sausages with calvados and apples, or pork sausages with bubble and squeak, mash and red onion gravy. Cheap

E&O

Oriental in style

6 C3

14 Blenheim Crescent, W11 • 020 7229 5454 Open lunch & dinner daily

This western sister to the Great Eastern Dining Room (see p48) is every bit as chic as its counterpart. It draws in the beautiful people of Notting Hill to preen, pout and gaze about while nibbling on the seriously tasty mix-and-match Oriental dishes. A great choice for vegetarians. Moderate

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West Al Waha

Middle Eastern

7 E3

75 Westbourne Grove, W2 • 020 7229 0806 www.waha-uk.com Open noon–midnight daily

This gracious restaurant offers some of the best Lebanese food around town in modest, tranquil surroundings (the name means “the oasis”). Vegetarians are well catered for in the list of almost 50 hot and cold meze, and it’s always worth trying the daily specials. The set meals are particularly good value. Moderate

Magic Wok

cheap & cheerful Chinese

7 F3

100 Queensway, W2 • 020 7792 9767 Open noon–10:30pm daily

Queensway has long been a centre for Chinese culinary excellence, and Magic Wok has been in its vanguard for many years. The décor is thoroughly undistinguished, but the food shines out. Stick to the specials menu and you can’t go wrong; the rich, flavourful hot pot dishes are especially good. Cheap

Satay House

traditional Malaysian

7 H2

13 Sale Place, W2 • 020 7723 6763 www.satayhouse.com Open lunch & dinner daily

For toothsome, freshly cooked Malaysian food you can’t beat this modest little Paddington restaurant. A lively, multinational crowd head here for classic rice and noodle dishes, and such delicacies as deep-fried sea bass cooked in salted beans, and fermented durian fruit with anchovies and turmeric leaves. Cheap

Chain Restaurants For conveyor-belt sushi head for Yo! Sushi or venture a little further upmarket at Itsu, where the belt delivers up dishes from all over Southeast Asia. Groundbreaking noodle bar group Wagamama is still the business for huge bowls of ramen (noodle soup) in a canteen atmosphere, while there’s a more intimate vibe at pan-Oriental mini-chain

Busaba Eathai. Venturing further west across the globe, Masala Zone has done for Indian food what Wagamama did for Japanese. Reaching Europe, you can’t beat Strada for wood-fired pizza, pasta and Italian staples. More unusual is idiosyncratic Belgian moules-frites specialist Belgo, while the dishes served at Giraffe span the world. For all restaurant details, see pp220–1.

You may have to queue at canteens and conveyor-belt restaurants such as Wagamama and Yo! Sushi

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Restaurants

Moro

Spanish & North African

4 A5

34–36 Exmouth Market, EC1 • 020 7833 8336 www.moro.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner Sat (private functions only for Sat lunch & all day Sun)

Few restaurants have attracted plaudits as unanimous and enthusiastic as those applied to Moro since it opened in 1997. Confusingly named husband-andwife team Sam and Sam Clark shared their culinary schooling at the pioneering Eagle gastropub (see below) just down the road, and also at the celebrated River Café (see p41) in Hammersmith. From these two gastronomic beacons they’ve adopted the sensible

The Eagle

the original gastropub

policy of letting the quality of fine ingredients shine through in simple dishes. Their unique contribution to both the concept and the London food scene comes from applying these principles to an inspired crossover of Spanish and North African cuisine (as the name Moro, meaning “Moor” in Spanish, implies). The results can be sampled in, say, a meal of ajo blanco (Spanish garlic and almond soup), followed by quail baked in flatbread, with rosewater and cardamom ice cream to finish. If you only want to snack, tapas are available from the long zinc bar that runs along one side of the casual though often frenetically noisy dining room. Moderate

10 A1

159 Farringdon Road, EC1 • 020 7837 1353 Open all day from noon Mon–Sat, lunch only Sun

Credited with starting the gastropub revolution that has now swept the country, The Eagle is still up there with the best of its progeny more than a decade later. Garrulous media folk pack out the tightly packed tables and feast on perfectly cooked rustic stomachfillers and grilled meats. Moderate

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City & East Fish Central

fish & chips in style

4 C5

149–51 Central Street, EC1 • 020 7253 4970 www.fishcentral.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat

An oasis of value and charm in the overpriced and often unfriendly City, Fish Central was converted in 2003 from a takeaway with attached dining room into a swish, minimalist restaurant. Yet the prices are still low, the welcome cheery and the food superb – haddock in matzo is a slice of piscine heaven. Cheap

Flâneur Food Hall

modern European

10 A1

41 Farringdon Road, EC1 • 020 7404 4422 Open 9am–10pm Mon–Sat, 9am–6pm Sun

Eating a meal in a grocery shop might not seem appealing, but high-ceilinged Flâneur is a superior seller of choice comestibles, and its restaurant offers a similarly elevated menu of contemporary dishes. The emphasis is on fresh ingredients. Rich cakes dominate the desserts selection. Moderate

Smiths of Smithfield

modern European 10 B2

67–77 Charterhouse Street, EC1 • 020 7251 7950 www.smithsofsmithfield.co.uk Café open breakfast & lunch daily; dining room open lunch & dinner Sun–Fri

Revelling in the industrial chic of bare brick and raw concrete, Smiths is a multi-floor venue successfully combining a buzzing bar-café (brunch is a must), a lively dining room, and a polished restaurant catering to City high-flyers. Moderate/Expensive

The Sutton Arms

proper gastropub

10 B1

6 Carthusian Street, EC1 • 020 7253 0723 Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri

This reconstructed pub on the fringes of the City is everything a good gastropub should be: solid, stripped back, unselfconscious. Within the small, dark, wood-clad upstairs dining room you can enjoy robust dishes, such as smoked haddock chowder and roast chicken with fennel. Moderate

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Restaurants St John

iconic British restaurant

4 B5

26 St John Street, EC1 • 020 7251 0848/4998 www.stjohnrestaurant.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat

Chef Fergus Henderson has been in the vanguard of modern British cooking since this unique restaurant opened in 1994. His philosophy of “nose to tail eating” – no part of an animal is off limits – has led to the creation of classic, no-compromise dishes such as roast bone marrow and parsley salad, and veal tongue, beetroot and pickled walnut. But faint hearts need not fear: less offbeat gems include boiled ham, carrots and parsley sauce, and veal chop with chicory and anchovy. Desserts are straight from the nursery: apple crumble and custard, and hot chocolate pudding. There are no decorative frills to detract from the supreme quality of the food in this eccentric building that is part Georgian townhouse, part former smokehouse. An on-site bakery and bar offer snacks such as welsh rarebit, and tripe and chips. Expensive

Café Spice Namaste

Indian

11 F3

16 Prescot Street, E1 • 020 7488 9242 www.cafespice.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat

No-one has done more than Bombay-born chef Cyrus Todiwala to revitalize British Indian restaurants for the 21st century. He opened Café Spice Namaste in Whitechapel in 1995, and it remains one of the capital’s premier Subcontinental dining destinations a decade later. A central bar separates the two dining rooms, which are decorated in fiery colours to reflect the zip of a menu that marries traditional Indian culinary techniques with unusual ingredients. Sample the delights of venison tikka flavoured with roasted fennel, star anise and cinnamon, and fresh buffalo mozzarella served with Parsee-style pickle and sarias (crackers). Or experience the depth of flavour in a classic lamb dansak. Even the home-made pickles and chutneys that accompany the pre-meal pappadoms are exceptional. You can enjoy Indian nibbles and bottles of icy Cobra lager in the beer garden, too. Moderate

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City & East Club Gascon

hearty French

10 B2

57 West Smithfield EC1 • 020 7796 0600 Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat

The earthy flavours of Southwest France are Club Gascon’s speciality, with foie gras prominent on a menu that features a range of small courses rather than the traditional starter-main-dessert. Some of the dishes raise a smile: wild sea bass might come with a “surprised” turnip (a tiny root veg topped with foam), or your apple pie could arrive seemingly empty, only for you to realize that the filling is within the accompanying ice cream. The presentation is as imaginative as the food, with courses appearing on slate, glass and ceramic tiles as well as china. If your budget will stretch to it, order the five-course degustation menu; each dish is paired with a different glass of wine. A couple of doors away, Cellar Gascon serves up cheaper, but equally fine, bistro food to accompany a superb selection of Gallic wines. Staff are cheery, confident and utterly professional. Expensive

Les Trois Garçons

characterful French

5 F5

1 Club Row, E1• 020 7613 1924 www.lestroisgarcons.com Open dinner daily

A welcome antidote to minimalism, this joyously overthe-top Gallic eaterie heaves with stuffed animals, Murano glass chandeliers and baroque bric-a-brac (all for sale). Yet, the food is straight-down-the-line classic French of a high order. Not cheap, but worth it for a unique dining experience. Expensive

Cantaloupe

trend-setting Mediterranean

5 E5

35 Charlotte Road, EC2 • 020 7613 4411 www.cantaloupegroup.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat & Sun

This versatile bar-restaurant is still a trailblazer of the trendy Hoxton/Shoreditch scene, but doesn’t sacrifice substance for appearance. The setting is revamped industrial, and there’s plenty of fire and imagination on the short, Mediterranean-slanted menu. Moderate Restaurants in the City are very busy at lunchtime, but often very quiet in the evenings

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Restaurants Great Eastern Dining Room

Oriental

5 E5

54–6 Great Eastern Street, EC2 • 020 7613 4545 www.greateasterndining.co.uk Open noon–midnight Mon–Thu, noon–1am Fri, 6pm–1am Sat

The lively, noisy GEDR draws in a young, fashionable crowd for artfully conceived oriental treats like pork and prawn dumplings, rare beef salad with red chilli dressing, and lemongrass and ginger pannacotta. (See also E&O, p42.) Moderate

Real Greek

real Greek

5 E5

14–15 Hoxton Market, N1 • 020 7739 8212 Branch: 140–42 St John St, EC1 • 020 7253 7234 www.therealgreek.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat

The moribund London Greek restaurant scene was given a life-saving shot in the arm when Theodore Kyriakou opened this stylish place in 1999. Dishes rarely encountered outside Greece are cooked with conviction and served with a smile. Moderate

Viet Hoa

the original Vietnamese

5 E4

70–72 Kingsland Road, E2 • 020 7729 8293 Open lunch & dinner daily

Hoxton has a sizeable and vibrant Vietnamese community, and this airy, one-time local canteen was the first place in London to bring the sharp, clean flavours of their cuisine to a non-native audience. It’s still packing the crowds in, and you won’t find a better bowl of pho (meat and noodle soup) in town. Cheap

Green Papaya

neighbourhood Vietnamese

5 H1

191 Mare Street, E8 • 020 8985 5486 Open dinner Tue–Sun

Hackney is home to a great mix of ethnicities, a fact reflected in its diverse community cafés. Green Papaya is a step up in terms of décor (stripped floorboards, crimson walls, candlelight and a lovely garden) and cooking. Try a classic noodle soup or go for something more unusual from the daily specials menu. Cheap

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City, East & North Gallipoli

4 B2

day-long meze

102 Upper Street, N1 • 020 7359 0630 Open 10am–11pm Mon–Thu, 10am–midnight Fri & Sat

Islington’s Upper Street is lined with restaurants, and one of the most popular is this cracking Turkish bistro. The atmosphere is lively, and the food fresh, generously proportioned and cheap. As well as a fine all-day breakfast, there’s a long menu of authentic Turkish dishes, especially meze and grilled meats. Cheap

The Drapers Arms

great gastropub

4 A2

44 Barnsbury Street, N1 • 020 7619 0348 www.thedrapersarms.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat, lunch only Sun

Of all the Islington gastropubs, none provides a better all-round package of great food, convivial ambience and willing service than the Drapers. You’ll pay West End prices in the airy first-floor restaurant, but the globe-trotting menu is topnotch. Moderate

The House

prize-winning gastropub

4 B1

63–9 Canonbury Road, N1 • 020 7704 7410 www.inthehouse.biz Open lunch & dinner Tue–Sun, dinner only Mon

North London is awash with gastropubs, but few come close to matching the award-winning House for quality of food. The setting is relaxed and friendly, with a modern, stripped-down bar area, an open fire in winter and a decked terrace and beer garden for when the sun shines. It’s only when you start exploring the menu, though, that you understand why this place has become many Islingtonians’ favourite spot to eat. There’s a French emphasis to the dishes, such as roast sea bass with piperade (sauté peppers), olive tapenade and langoustine oil, and terrine of chicken, sweetbreads, Grelot onions and foie gras wrapped in Parma ham. There’s also a superb, varied brunch menu at weekends and good-value lunch and pre-theatre set meals. Not cheap, but absolutely worth it. Moderate

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Restaurants Odette’s

romantic modern European

2 B2

130 Regent’s Park Road, NW1 • 020 7586 5486 Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat, lunch only Sun

One of North London’s best-loved restaurants, Odette’s is a prime spot for a romantic dinner à deux. Though it was given a sensitive renovation in 2003, it retains all the old-fashioned idiosyncrasy that has long endeared it to the moneyed media folk of Primrose Hill. Scores of gilded mirrors reflect candlelight around the intimate dining rooms, providing a seductive setting for adventurous but not over-fussy contemporary cooking. Pithivier of rabbit with white bean cream would be a typical starter; for mains, chargrilled leg of lamb with Italian seasoning, roasted artichokes and fondant potatoes, or loin of veal with herb gnocchi and fresh peas. The wine list is also notable, and features an impressively international spread of vintages. Service can be a touch uneven, but overall Odette’s is a North London jewel. Expensive

El Parador

superior tapas

3 E4

245 Eversholt Street, NW1 • 020 7387 2789 Open lunch & dinner Mon–Fri, dinner only Sat & Sun

An oasis of Iberia in the unpromising area between Euston station and Camden Town, El Parador is at its best in the summer, when the dining room and basement are augmented by a small garden. The tapas are better than the London norm, with fresh, high-quality ingredients to the fore. Cheap

Café Corfu

Greek delights

3 E2

7 Pratt Street, NW1 • 020 7267 8088 www.cafecorfu.com Open all day from noon Tue–Sun

Many Greek restaurants in London are lacklustre. Not so Café Corfu, which offers an excitingly varied menu of rarely encountered specialities from the Greek mainland and islands, as well as classic roast lamb dishes. The setting is lively, stylish and thoroughly contemporary, and service spot-on. Moderate

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North Manna

vegetable dishes from heaven

2 B2

4 Erskine Road, NW3 • 020 7722 8028 www.manna-veg.com Open dinner only Mon–Sat, lunch & dinner Sun

Serving well-crafted dishes for more than 40 years, Manna is still noteworthy among vegetarian restaurants. Tuck in to a meal of, say, soba noodle salad, organic fennel schnitzel, and star anise brûlée accompanied by a fine organic beer or wine. Moderate

The Lansdowne

reliable gastropub

2 C2

90 Gloucester Avenue, NW1 • 020 7483 0409 Open dinner only Tue–Sat, lunch & dinner Sun

The Lansdowne has long been one of the capital’s premier gastropubs, and its standards remain as high as ever. Snacks can be ordered from the chalkboard in the lively downstairs bar, or go for something more substantial on the short, reliable menu in the posher red-and-black-clad first-floor restaurant. Moderate

Mango Room

the best Caribbean in town

2 D1

10 Kentish Town Road, NW1 • 020 7482 5065 www.mangoroom.co.uk Open dinner only Mon, lunch & dinner Tue–Sat, lunch only Sun

First-class Caribbean food is scarce in London and almost never found in a restaurant as stylish as the Mango Room. Jerk chicken and curried goat are classics. Creole snapper with mango and green peppercorn sauce is an unusual alternative. Moderate

The Wells

gastropub with a view

1 B4

30 Well Walk, NW3 • 020 7794 3785 www.thewellshampstead.co.uk Open lunch & dinner daily

Enjoy the views of leafy Hampstead from the spacious, streamlined first-floor restaurant of this pub, while you savour the menu of well-honed comfort food – rich, calorie-packed and utterly irresistible. For a blow-out, try the classic Chateaubriand with thricecooked chips, followed by custard tart. Moderate For an index of restaurants by cuisine, see pp220–22

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Restaurants Base

2 C4

light Mediterranean cuisine

71 Hampstead High Street, NW3 • 020 7431 2224 www.basefoods.com Bistro open 8am–6pm daily; restaurant open dinner Tue–Sat

By day, a local clientele packs out the bistro, chatting animatedly over light, bright Mediterranean food (grilled vegetable salads, seared tuna, risotto). By night, the upstairs dining room takes centre stage for similar fare in marginally more formal surrounds. Moderate

Kovalam

great-value, high-quality Indian

12 Willesden Lane, NW6 • 020 7625 4761 • 1 Kilburn Open lunch & dinner daily

Willesden Lane in Kilburn is something of a mecca for fans of good, cheap South Indian food, and Kovalam is probably the pick of the bunch. The décor may be humble, but the depth of flavour in its superb Keralan dishes is regal – try the breadfruit curry. Many dishes are suitable for vegetarians. Cheap

Blueprint Café

European by the river

11 F5

Design Museum, Shad Thames, SE1 • 020 7378 7031 www.conran.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat, lunch Sun

The twin attractions of this classy restaurant – it’s certainly no café – within the Design Museum are expansive views of the Thames and a daily-changing, Italian-leaning menu. The room is a no-nonsense setting for superior peasant food, such as roast partridge with cabbage and bacon. Expensive

Champor-Champor

Malaysian fusion

10 D5

62 Weston Street, SE1 • 020 7403 4600 www.champor-champor.com Open dinner Mon–Sat

Primary colours burst from the walls of this lively little restaurant, reflecting the zesty flavours on the inventive menu. The essence is Malaysian, but with pan-Asian influences. Typical dishes include steamed tilapia with turmeric leaf, crab and coconut bisque, and masala lamb fillet with aubergine mousse. Moderate

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North & South Tas

uncommonly good Turkish

10 A5

33 The Cut, SE1 • 020 7928 1444 www.tasrestaurant.com Open all day from noon daily

Named after a traditional Anatolian cooking pot, Tas has proved that high-quality Turkish cooking and a contemporary setting can harmonize. The menu is strong on grilled meats and perkily fresh meze, with a huge choice for vegetarians. Add in friendly staff and fair prices, and you have a winner. Moderate

Livebait

fish in myriad forms

10 A5

41–5 The Cut, SE1 • 020 7928 7211 www.santeonline.co.uk/livebait Open all day from noon Mon–Sat

With its cheery tiled interior and booth seating, Livebait looks like a classy fish and chip shop. But this won’t prepare you for the wonderful menu roving from the simple pleasures of a bowl of cockles to the epicurean heights of oven-roast halibut. Moderate

Mesón Don Felipe

authentic Spanish

10 A5

53 The Cut, SE1 • 020 7928 3237 Open all day from noon Mon–Sat

For many hispanophiles this perennially packed little tapas bar is as close as you can get in London to the real thing. Regulars perch at the huge bar in the middle of the room, while friendly staff distribute melting bacalao (deep-fried salt cod), broad beans with ham, and perfect tortilla. Cheap

Masters Super Fish

fish & chips

10 A5

191 Waterloo Road, SE1 • 020 7928 6924 Open dinner Mon, lunch & dinner Tue–Sat

Clad in dark wood and exposed brick, this is much better than the average “chippie”. True, you can get a classic cod’n’chips with mushy peas, but there’s also fresh Cromer crab and crisp, mustard-coated haddock for the more adventurous. A favoured haunt of London cab drivers – who know a thing or two. Cheap

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Restaurants Oxo Tower

fine food and fabulous views

10 A4

Top floor, Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House St, SE1 020 7803 3888 www.harveynichols.com Open lunch & dinner daily

There are few locations in London as spectacular as the top floor of the Oxo Tower. Floor-to-ceiling glass walls and a 250-ft (90-m) long terrace allow uninterrupted views over the Thames. It’s stunning, and yours to admire for the price of a drink at the sleek bar. Eating here will make a greater dent in your wallet, though the cost is justified by the consistently high standard of the creative modern European food served at the relaxed Brasserie and more formal Restaurant. Lunch at the Brasserie might consist of chilli crab with egg linguine, followed by sea bass and warm halloumi, and finishing with coconut parfait with passion fruit. The refinement of the menu (and prices) rise in the Restaurant, with such delicacies as warm salad of quail with foie gras and truffle, monkfish with oxtail or pink grapefruit with Campari sorbet. Both venues serve more affordable set lunches. Expensive

Tsunami

way-out Japanese

5–7 Voltaire Road, SW4 • 020 7978 1610 • 1 Clapham North Open dinner Mon–Fri, all day (12:30–11:30pm) Sat

Tsunami is one of that rare breed of restaurants that thrill and satisfy in equal proportions. The first surprise is finding such a smart, stylish space just off Clapham’s workaday high street. With its ascetically plain décor and nattily attired staff, it has an air of both simplicity and sophistication. A similar balance is found on the menu, which combines classic Japanese cooking – excellent, biting-fresh sashimi, sushi and tempura – with originality and imagination. Witness the mingling of sautéed foie gras with Asian pear and truffle, quail with ginger honey soy, and the green tea tiramisu. There are parallels between Tsunami and ultra-chic Nobu (see p34), where some of the staff trained, but Tsunami is free of “attitude”, and there’s no need to book months in advance. Expensive

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South Ransome’s Dock

modern European

35–37 Parkgate Road, SW11• 020 7223 1611 1 Clapham Common Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat, 12–3:30pm Sun

Perched on the edge of a small inlet off the Thames, ingredients are well chosen, and organic where possible. The Wine List, overseen by owner Martin Lam, is outstanding for its range and good value. The kitchen shows an instinct for flavour combinations but dishes are kept agreeably simple. Moderate

Le Petit Max

Chez Bruce

Battersea bistro

2 Bellevue Road, SW17 • 020 8672 0114 £ Wandsworth Common www.chezbruce.co.uk Open lunch & dinner daily

Few establishments are as universally admired (and enjoyed) as Bruce Poole’s longstanding Wandsworth restaurant. The traditions of French cuisine provide the framework, but expect inspired borrowings from elsewhere in Europe and a focus on seasonal ingredients. Relaxed, knowledgeable staff add to a sophisticated yet easygoing atmosphere. Moderate

Battersea bistro

Riverside Plaza, 14 Chatfield Road, SW11 • 020 7223 0999 £ Wandsworth or Clapham Junction Open 10am–10:30pm Mon–Sat, 10am–2:30pm Sun

Over the last decade Max Renzland has been behind some of London’s most inventive and consistently excellent French restaurants. Most have been located in obscure parts of southwest London; this one is sited in an unprepossessing riverside development in Battersea. The dominant feature of the interior is a handsome 1930s mahogany bar imported from Lille. Le Petit Max is essentially a reasonably priced bistro. The menu du jour is particularly good value, but the carte is also within the reach of most budgets. A typically earthy meal could start with boudin noir (blood sausage) with potato salad, then braised shoulder of milk-fed Pyrenean lamb with haricot beans and garlic, finishing with rum baba, red fruits and Chantilly. Moderate

Putney Bridge Restaurant

French

2 Lower Richmond Road, The Embankment, SW15 020 8780 1811 • 1 Putney Bridge www.putneybridgerestaurant.com Open lunch & dinner Mon–Sat, lunch only Sun

The award-winning glass-and-steel building does impress, but the lovely river views and impeccable food are the main attractions. The airy dining room provides a serene setting for French haute cuisine. Expensive In pubs or restaurants away from the centre of town, Sunday lunch can be great value

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shopping London’s retail landscape is as diverse as the city itself, yielding up traditional tailors and radical fashion designers, antiquarian booksellers and alternative record shops, luxury department stores and gritty markets. Of course, it has its fair share of international chains, but you don’t have to travel far off the beaten track to find quirky contemporary boutiques and time-honoured delicatessens.

TOP CHOICES –

shopping

FLAGSHIP STORES

OBJETS D’ART

SHOES & ACCESSORIES

Paul Smith

Mint

Jimmy Choo

120 Kensington Park Rd, W11

70 Wigmore St, W1

169 Draycott Ave, SW3

The interior of this fabulous Regency house is casually strewn with Paul Smith’s refined yet cheeky tailoring. (See p84)

A miscellany of antique and modern homewares, furniture and lighting. Pieces by recent design graduates add to the mix. (See p73)

Jimmy Choo’s is a treasure trove of glamorous and decadent shoes, from diamanté sandals to sleek, knee-high boots. (See p77)

Joseph

Graham & Green

Lulu Guinness

77 Fulham Rd, SW3

4 & 10 Elgin Crescent, W11

3 Ellis St, SW1

Contemporary tailoring for men and women. The Essentials shop, Gigi boutique and café are across the street. (See p77)

Stocking everything from Mongolian cushions to cool Modernist lamps, at equally wide-ranging prices, this is a great place to browse. (See p85)

Guinness’s apparently endless variations on the humble bag transform it into an object of veneration. Witty, fun and expensive. (See p77)

Stella McCartney

Aram

30 Bruton St, W1

110 Drury Lane, WC1

McCartney’s Mayfair townhouse is a glamorous setting for slinky dresses and beautifully cut suits.

Classic Gropius and Aalto furniture, and pieces by young British designers are displayed in a slick showroom. (See p60)

For a fantastic range of cheap and fashionable accessories, check out TopShop (see p68) or the revamped New Look chain.

(See p70)

More dash than cash? Visit Designer Bargains at 29 Kensington Church Street for a good selection of barely second-hand attire.

Camden Passage Off Upper St, N1

This pedestrian street behind the modish shops of Upper Street is lined with antique shops of all kinds. (See p90)

The Conran Shop

Philip Treacy

Michelin House, 81 Fulham Rd, SW3

69 Elizabeth St, SW1

Occupying the former headquarters of Michelin, Conran’s elegant homewares share house room with a couple of great eateries. (See p78)

On swanky Elizabeth Street, Philip Treacy produces dashing hats, as well as offering a bespoke service. (See p76)

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TOP CHOICES – BEST OF BRITISH

VINTAGE & RETRO

shopping

DESIGNER COUTURE

Neal’s Yard Dairy

Rokit

Oki-ni

17 Shorts Gardens, WC2

Brick Lane, E1

25 Saville Row, W1

This outstanding cheesemonger’s produce is sourced mostly from independent UK producers. Also at Borough Market. (See pp62 & 163)

This spacious, two-shop outlet is packed with 60s and 70s vintage wear, notably well-worn leather jackets and 70s T-shirts. (See p88)

The gallery-style shop of this BritishJapanese group displays pieces designed in collaboration with labels such as Levi’s and Evisu. (See p68)

James Smith & Sons

Persiflage

The World According To…

53 New Oxford St, WC1

Alfie’s Antiques Market, Church St, NW8

6 Conduit St, W1

Stalwarts of urbanity since 1830, the Smiths make canes and umbrellas so dapper that rain is almost welcome. (See p63)

Persiflage is a tiny shop with modest prices, some 19th-century clothes and great 1920s pieces.

This funky boutique showcasing hot talent such as Boudicca and Peter Jensen reputedly attracts fashionista Kate Moss. (See p67)

Classic clothes emporia Burberry and Pringle have recently metamorphosed from bastions of tradition into cool brands (see p69).

On Thursdays, London’s hottest young designers display their latest creations at Spitalfields Market (see p161). Sniff out some beautifully crafted garments at preview prices.

A. Gold

Portobello Green

aQuaint

42 Brushfield St, E1

Portobello Rd at Cambridge Gdns, W11

38 Monmouth St, WC2

This little deli sells mainly British produce, such as Cumberland sausages and cider brandy from the West Country. (See p87)

On Fridays and Saturdays, this market sells new designs and an excellent mix of second-hand and vintage clothing. (See p83)

The ready-to-wear range in this young London designer’s store makes good use of luxurious materials. (See p61)

Smythson

Browns

40 New Bond St, W1

23–27 South Molton St, W1

Top-quality stationer Smythson offers elegant leather-bound diaries and notebooks, and watermarked correspondence sets. (See p69)

Selfridges has a huge range of top-name brands all under one roof (see p71)

Five interlinked boutiques sell top designer labels. Across the street, Browns Focus features hip young designs. (See p70)

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Shopping Floral Street

big names & small boutiques

9 G3

Cobbled pedestrian street in Covent Garden, WC2 For individual shop details, see pp210–11

This winding lane tucked behind Covent Garden Market is packed with well-known fashion stores ranging from young, trendy labels, for example Diesel StyleLab, to established designer names such as Paul Smith, Ted Baker, Agnès B, Nicole Farhi and Camper. Dotted among these are some unusual shops, such as Kirk Originals, which sells colourful, retro-inspired eyewear (at No. 29); Burro for clothing with logos and patterns (also at No. 29); and Jones, which displays supercool designer menswear (Raf Simons, Jo CaselyHayford, et al) in an extraordinary industrial setting at Nos. 13–15. Posh combatwear is the theme at Maharishi, where a jungle-like interior comes complete with palm trees and mini military helicopters (No. 19a). The Tintin Shop (No. 34) is devoted to the famous Belgian comic strip, selling books in several languages, posters, T-shirts and other themed items.

Vertigo

original film posters

9 G3

22 Wellington Street, WC2 • 020 7836 9252 www.vertigogalleries.com Open 11–6:30 Mon–Fri, 11–5:30 Sat

This light-filled little gallery showcases original movie posters and “lobby cards” (small posters displayed in American cinemas). The selection and prices range from affordable modern items to rarities going for thousands. For an original gift idea, choose a film from someone’s birth year, or one with a British theme.

Aram

iconic modern furniture

9 G3

110 Drury Lane, WC2 • 020 7557 7557 www.aram.co.uk Open 10–6 Mon–Sat (10–7 Thu)

A champion of contemporary design since the 1960s, Aram now has a vast converted warehouse to show off its modern-classic furniture to stunning effect. Wandering around its five floors, admiring iconic pieces by Le Corbusier and Eileen Gray, is like visiting a museum. Indeed, the shop hosts regular exhibitions.

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Centre

Monmouth Street

girls’ pampering zone

9 F3

Covent Garden, WC2 For individual shop details, see pp210–11

Monmouth Street is rapidly turning into Boutique Central, with a line-up of classy shops. At No. 23 is London’s chicest sex shop, Coco de Mer, selling beautiful lingerie (some emblazoned with discreet pornographic prints), a range of tasteful sex toys such as arty, coloured-glass dildos, and erotic books. The décor is neo-Victorian with crimson floral wallpaper, and the dressing rooms have a peephole concealed behind a picture through which your partner can spy on you from a hidden chamber next door – very kinky. American skincare supremo Kiehl’s is at No. 29. The company’s excellent products, based on natural ingredients, are instantly recognizable in their

no-frills packaging. Be warned, however – they’re far more expensive here than in the US. Poste Mistress at Nos. 61–3 has the feel of a 1970s boudoir, with designer shoes from the likes of Angelo Figus and Pucci perched amid kitsch, framed photos and burgundy velvet pouffes. The talented buyer at Koh Samui (Nos. 65–7) always selects exciting pieces from well-known designers (Dries Van Noten, Miu Miu, Clements Ribeiro), plus cutting-edge offerings by up-andcoming talent. The jewellery and accessories are especially creative. Across the street at aQuaint (No. 38), Ashley Isham’s grown-up, tailored-yetfeminine womenswear hangs side by side with neat modern clothing by British designers Emma Cook and Boyd, and exquisite, expensive frocks by Lanvin.

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Shopping Earlham Street

bustling street market

9 F3

At the Seven Dials intersection, Covent Garden, WC2 For individual shop details, see pp210–11

The west end of Earlham Street is packed with market stalls hawking cheap T-shirts and casual clothes. Sprawling over several stalls is The Wild Bunch florist, which offers a wide array of good-quality blooms. The shops lining the street are mainly funky fashion chains, including global surf-skate-style brand Stüssy at No. 19, futuristic club label Cyberdog at No. 9 and expanding British chain All Saints at No. 5, which sells cool clothes and jeanswear for men and women. Adding to the mix is traditional ironmonger F W Collins & Son at No. 14, which opened in 1835 when the area still had a reputation as a meeting-place of criminals. A branch of design bookshop Magma is at No. 8 (see also p86). At the east end of Earlham Street are the surf/skatewear shops of the Thomas Neal Centre and hip young American clothing/home emporium Urban Outfitters, at Nos. 42–56.

Neal’s Yard Dairy

British cheeses

9 G3

17 Shorts Gardens, WC2 • 020 7240 5700 www.nealsyarddairy.co.uk Open 11–6:30 Mon–Thu, 10–6:30 Fri & Sat

The very smell of this tiny shop will have cheese-lovers swooning. The counter and shelves groan under the weight of massive whole cheeses. Regional gems by independent producers include Colston Bassett Stilton, Lincolnshire Poacher and Montgomery’s Cheddar.

Size?

9 G3

trendy trainer store

17–19 Neal Street, WC2 • 020 7240 1736 Open 9:30–7:30 (to 8pm Thu), noon–6 Sun

Sneaker freaks will be in their natural habitat at this always-busy shop, which sells big names such as Converse, Nike and Lacoste – including limitededition styles – alongside elusive cult brands. Adidas fans should head for the basement and one of the UK’s few official shops dedicated to the label.

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Centre Forbidden Planet

sci-fi/fantasy megastore

9 F2

179 Shaftesbury Avenue, WC2 • 020 7420 3666 www.forbiddenplanet.com Open 10–7 (to 8 Thu), noon–6 Sun

For shoppers with an unhealthy obsession with Lord of the Rings or Star Trek, this is the place to come for the full range of action figures and videos. Forbidden Planet is the world’s largest sci-fi and fantasy retailer, and the London megastore is packed with books and comics. There is even an “adults only” section.

Falkiner Fine Papers

paper supplies

9 G1

76 Southampton Row, WC1 • 020 7831 1151 Open 9:30–5:30 Mon–Fri, 10:30–5:30 Sat

Located near St Martins College of Art, Falkiner sells all manner of products relating to paper. There’s equipment for making it, quill pens, sketchbooks and shelf upon shelf of individual sheets, from marbled patterns to parquet and bricks for dolls’ houses. Japanese silkscreen prints are another line.

James Smith & Sons

umbrellas

9 G2

53 New Oxford Street, WC1 • 020 7836 4731 www.james-smith.co.uk Open 9:30–5:25 Mon–Fri, 10–5:25 Sat

This family business has been making umbrellas and canes for over 170 years. The Victorian shop, still with its original signs and fittings, is an attraction in itself. Inside are racks crammed with umbrellas in every pattern – stripes, checks, paisley, frilled parasols – and walking sticks with curious carved handles.

Contemporary Wardrobe

vintage wear

9 G1

The Horse Hospital, Colonnade, WC1 • 020 7713 7370 www.thehorsehospital.com Open noon–6 Mon–Sat, by appointment

Thousands of vintage street fashions can be found at this hire shop, which shares its site with a venue for avant garde art and film. Rooting around here could turn up a piece used in the film Quadrophenia or a video shoot with Kylie. Some garments are for sale. Covent Garden contains some of London’s quirkiest specialist shops

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Shopping Gay’s The Word

specialist bookshop

3 G5

66 Marchmont Street, WC1 • 020 7278 7654 www.gaystheword.co.uk Open 10–6:30 Mon–Sat, 2–6 Sun

The UK’s largest gay bookshop has been in business since the late 1970s. Titles cover fiction, philosophy, history, politics, erotica, relationships and emotional issues. Gay detective novels have a section to themselves. Videos and second-hand books are also on sale in this friendly shop.

Eatmyhandbagbitch

cool design

9 G3

37 Drury Lane, WC2B • 020 7836 0830 www.eatmyhandbagbitch.co.uk Open 11am–6pm Mon–Sat, or by appointment

An array of original furniture and objects for the home, ranging from 1900 right up to the 1980s, can be found in this wonderful shop. Eatmyhandbagbitch is a real treat for serious collectors of twentiethcentury interior design.

Cecil Court

antiquarian books & prints

9 F3

Pedestrian lane off Charing Cross Road, WC2 For individual shop details, see p211

This narrow street, lined with quirky little shops, is a collector’s paradise. Nigel Williams at No. 25 specializes in first editions, with lots of Enid Blyton and P G Wodehouse, while, across the street, Marchpane also deals in antique children’s titles, especially sumptuously illustrated fairy stories. P J Hilton has a good selection of beautifully bound 19th-century literature, and David Drummond sells books and ephemera relating to the performing arts. Continuing the dramatic theme Stage Door Prints (No. 9) has signed photos of stars such as Laurence Olivier, Vivien Leigh, Edith Piaf and Anna Pavlova, plus theatre-related prints. You’ll find a wider selection of antiquarian prints – encompassing fish, fashion, maps, the military and much more – at Storey’s (No. 3). Opposite, Tindley & Chapman deals in immaculate first editions of 20th-century fiction.

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Centre Charing Cross Road

bookshops

9 F3

Road bordering Covent Garden & Soho, WC2 For individual shop details, see p211

The name “Charing Cross Road” gets bibliophiles’ pulses racing. Together with offshoot Cecil Court (see left), it is London’s main centre of new, secondhand, specialist and antiquarian bookshops. Check out the commemorative plaque on the site of the defunct Marks & Co, whose address gave its name to the book and film 84 Charing Cross Road. Recently refurbished, the famous Foyles stocks everything from popular fiction to academic texts on its five floors. It now also houses London institution Ray’s Jazz – a music shop, with a café attached where you can dig the tunes – and renowned women’s bookshop Silver Moon. There’s also an art gallery on the premises. Even if you’re not buying for children, go and have a look at the live piranhas in the children’s department. Across the street is a massive branch of Borders with the chain’s usual allembracing selection of magazines, books and CDs. It has a café and comfy chairs for lounging in, too. A large branch of Blackwell’s bookshop is at No. 100. Of the second-hand bookshops on Charing Cross Road, many are appealingly ramshackle emporiums, where the pleasure comes from rooting out treasures from the packed, dusty shelves. Quinto at No. 48A and Henry Pordes at Nos. 58–60 are well reputed. For coffee-table art tomes and scholarly subjects, visit Shipley at No. 70. Its sister shop, Shipley Media, at No. 80 specializes in photography, film and fashion.

Any Amount of Books

great bookshop

9 F3

56 Charing Cross Road, WC2H • 020 7836 3697 www.anyamountofbooks.com Open 10:30am–9:30pm daily

This bookshop sells second-hand books from around the world – in fact it is not unknown for the owners to take trips to far-flung places to find exciting titles. Some books can be found for as little as £1 right up to rare editions worth hundreds. Once inside you’ll be there for hours – the range of books is absolutely fascinating.

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Shopping Kokon To-Zai

9 F3

sounds & style

57 Greek Street, W1 • 020 7434 1316 Open 11–7:30 Mon–Sat, noon–6 Sun

Revamp your record collection and your wardrobe at this compact one-stop shop selling cutting-edge clothes and music. Staff man the decks so you can browse to the electro beat. On the rails are street designs for both sexes by local and global talent, as well as the store’s own sportswear-influenced line.

Gerry’s

wines & spirits

9 F3

74 Old Compton Street, W1 • 020 7734 4215/2053 Open 9–6 Mon–Fri, 9–5:30 Sat

This is the place to come if you’re looking for an obscure liqueur or spirit – there are over 100 varieties of vodka alone. The shop is crammed with a huge variety of booze from all over Europe, South America and elsewhere, from strawberry-flavoured tequila to absinthe in a bottle shaped like the Eiffel Tower.

The World According To…

trendy

9 E3

4 Brewer Street, W1 • 020 7437 1259 Open 10:30–6:30 Mon–Fri, 11–6:30 Sat

Blink and you’ll miss this tiny basement shop in the heart of the red-light district. The names inside couldn’t be further from the scene on the street, with Eley Kishimoto, Cacharel and Sonia Rykiel’s diffusion line rubbing shoulders with the boutique’s own Shopgirl range and hip new London labels.

Vintage

entertainment memorabilia & mags

9 E3

39–43 Brewer Street, W1 • 020 7439 8525 www.vinmag.com Open 10–8 (to 10pm Fri–Sat), noon–8 Sun

The ground floor is devoted to entertainment memorabilia (Charlie’s Angels T-shirts, Bond mousepads). The basement holds 75,000 vintage magazines, organized by decade and theme. In addition to Picture Post and Vogue, you’ll find such obscurities as The Naturist and a Dr Kildare Annual.

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Centre Agent Provocateur

kitsch-sexy lingerie

9 E3

6 Broadwick Street, W1 • 020 7439 0229 www.agentprovocateur.com Open 11–7 Mon–Sat (11–8 Thu), 12–5 Sun

This lingerie company is run by designer Vivienne Westwood’s son. The original Soho shop is the best, maintaining the slightly seedy air befitting its pornchic image. Staff in pink uniforms sell 1950s pin-upstyle underwear as well as accessories.

Phonica

vinyl-lovers’ paradise

9 E3

51 Poland Street, W1 • 020 7025 6070 www.phonicarecords.com Open 11:30–7:30 Mon–Wed & Sat, 11:30–8 Thu & Fri

Here there’s a counter lined with record decks and 70s lounge chairs to relax on while leafing through back copies of Jockey Slut. Among the vinyl, you’ll find Afrobeat, electronica, hip hop, nu jazz from the JazzanovaCompost label and Donna Summer disco heaven.

Anything Left-Handed

specialist tools

9 E3

57 Brewer Street, W1 • 020 7437 3910 www.anythingleft-handed.co.uk Open 10–6 Mon–Fri, 10–5:30 Sat

In business since 1968, the shop delivers what it says above the door – everyday items specially made for lefty adults and children, from kitchen implements and manicure sets to educational games and books. The helpful staff are left-handed as well.

b Store

radical designer fashion

8 D3

6 Conduit Street, W1 • 020 7499 6628 www.buddhahood.co.uk Open 10:30–6:30 Mon–Fri, 10–6 Sat

This small boutique for men and women sells its own range of funky footwear – Buddhahood – alongside cutting-edge designs from Peter Jensen, Boudicca and Michelle Lowe-Holder. Although the shop attracts such lofty clientele as model Kate Moss and pop princess Kylie, the mood is pleasantly down to earth. Soho shops tend to open from late morning until early evening, after which the bars and clubs fill up

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Shopping Newburgh Street

Carnaby’s cooler cousin

9 E3

Cobbled pedestrian street, W1 For individual shop details, see p212

Running parallel behind brash Carnaby Street, this little strip couldn’t be further away in spirit. Among the line-up of small street-fashion outlets, RedDot stands out for its amusing T-shirts and sweatshirts emblazoned with anarchic slogans and images such as Princess Diana playing happy families with Darth Vader. Jess James offers modern jewellery from upand-coming and well-known designers – displayed in innovative ways, such as in a long leather case with portholes which light up as you approach. The Dispensary sells laid-back clothes on the wearable side of fashionable for both sexes, from designers local and far-flung. Tiny perfumery Scent Systems stocks unusual fragrances and skincare, many of them not available elsewhere in the UK. These include the German products Just Pure, meant to be used according to the cycles of the moon.

Oki-ni

limited-edition designs

9 E3

25 Savile Row, W1 • 020 7494 1716 www.oki-ni.com Open 10–6 Mon–Sat (to 7 Thu)

A totally original concept, Oki-ni is a British-Japanese design group that collaborates with such diverse labels as Duffer of St George, Adidas, Paul Smith, Levi’s, Evisu and Zakee Shariff to create exclusive garments. The shop is more a showroom than a retail site, as most items have to be ordered from the website.

Liberty

English-eccentric department store

8 D3

Topshop

fashion superstore

9 E2

210–20 Regent Street, W1 • 020 7734 1234 www.liberty.co.uk Open 10–7 Mon–Sat (to 8pm Thu), noon–6 Sun

36–38 Great Castle Street, W1 • 020 7636 7700 www.topshop.co.uk Open 9–8 Mon–Sat (to 9pm Thu), noon–6 Sun

London’s quirkiest department store maintains its rich history while embracing the 21st century. Tudor House contains the global furniture, Oriental rugs and printed fabrics that made Liberty’s name, while Regent House has extravagant lingerie and ultra-fashionable shoes.

“The world’s largest fashion store” attracts 180,000 shoppers a week. Blaring music and video screens may be for kids, but stylists trawl it for cheap garments. The basement Boutique has affordable pieces by Preen, Maria Chen-Pascual and others.

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Centre Georgina Goodman

unique shoes

8 D5

12–14 Shepherd Street, W1 • 020 7499 8599 www.georginagoodman.com Open 10–6 Mon–Fri, 11–4 Sat

Goodman’s sculptural, hand-painted shoes (created to individual specifications in the workshop downstairs) are wearable works of art with pricetags to match, but there is a more affordable, ready-to-wear line, too. Also on sale in the airy, gallery-style space are baby bootees, bags and other leather goods.

Smythson

impeccable stationery

8 D3

40 New Bond Street, W1 • 020 7629 8558 www.smythson.com Open 9:30–6 (from 10am Thu & Sat)

This posh stationer is great for gifts, especially leather-bound notebooks in a range of classic colours, some embossed with witty titles such as Blondes Brunettes Redheads, as well as the more practical Travel Notes. Other wonderfully traditional accessories include visitors’ books and travel wallets.

REN

British natural body products

8 D4

19 Shepherd Market, W1 • 020 7495 5960 www.renskincare.com Open 11–6:30 Mon–Sat; often closed 3–4:30

Ren means “clean” in Swedish, reflecting the philosophy behind this British hair- and skincare brand. Products such as the Moroccan rose otto shower wash and the grapefruit and jojoba cream are made without pore-blocking additives and have a lovely scent.

Traditional British Brands Some bastions of British conservatism have recently been given the kiss of life. Burberry has been transformed from staid raincoat manufacturer to “it” label. And, although the hallowed check has gained popularity among football fans, the macs are still top-quality, and the more exclusive catwalk line, available at the New Bond Street flagship,

exudes urban chic. The traditional knitwear brand Pringle now has cool variations on its famous argyle sweaters and neat, classic separates. Mulberry has shaken off its former frumpiness with contemporary takes on English country style: the renowned bags in mock-croc leather and durable, synthetic Scotchgrain are now streamlined with modern shapes. All outlets on New Bond St; see p223.

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Shopping Poste

8 D3

trendy men’s shoes

10 South Molton Street, W1 • 020 7499 8002 Open 10–7 Mon–Sat, noon–6 Sun

With its Chesterfield sofa and framed pictures of humorous, often bizarre gentlemen, this small shop has the air of a gentlemen’s club. Most of the shoes are updates of classics by designers such as Jeffery-West, Paul Smith and Dries Van Noten, with a selection of fashionable trainers by the likes of Adidas and Puma.

Browns

international designer boutique

8 D3

23–7 South Molton Street, W1 • 020 7514 0000 www.brownsfashion.com Open 10–6:30 Mon–Sat (to 7pm Thu)

The mother of all London boutiques has been in business for over 30 years, occupying five interconnecting shops. The mood is decidedly grown-up, with Dries Van Noten, Lanvin, Alaia and an entire floor devoted to Jil Sander. Across the street, black-mirrored Browns Focus showcases young hip labels.

Spymaster

espionage emporium

8 C2

3 Portman Square, W1 • 020 7486 3885 www.spymaster.co.uk Open 9:30–6 Mon–Fri, 10–5 Sat

Aspiring James Bonds will love this store, which caters to amateur sleuths, government departments and law-enforcement agencies. All your espionage needs are catered for, from trained sniffer dogs and armoured cars to shark repellent and a nifty bug detector disguised as a pen. Eat your heart out, Q.

N Peal

indulgent cashmere

9 E4

Stella McCartney

cool designerwear

8 D4

37 & 71–2 Burlington Arcade, W1 • 020 7493 5378 www.npeal.com Open 9:30–6 Mon–Sat

30 Bruton Street, W1 • 020 7518 3100 www.stellamccartney.com Open 10–6 Mon–Sat (to 7pm Thu)

A resident of London’s famous Burlington Arcade since 1936, N Peal has managed to move with the times. The range of cashmere in its two tiny shops (women’s at No. 37, men’s at 71–2) is impressive, from classic rollnecks and cardies to younger, street-inspired styles in the more affordable npealworks collection.

A spacious Mayfair townhouse is a suitably glamorous setting for McCartney’s figure-skimming dresses, slimfitting suits and separates in seductive fabrics. The non-leather shoes are displayed in a parlour decorated with wallpaper created by the designer herself. Vegetarian footwear has never been so sexy.

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Centre

Selfridges

department store heaven

8 C3

400 Oxford Street, W1 • 0870 837 7377 www.selfridges.com Open 10–8 Mon–Fri, 9:30–8 Sat, 12–6 Sun

Look out, Harrods; watch your back, Harvey Nicks, because Selfridges is a serious contender for London’s best department store. Constantly introducing new labels and innovations, the Oxford Street giant can truly be said to have all the bases covered. Whether you’re looking for the latest bestseller, a new iBook or a vintage frock, you’re likely to find it in this retail universe. The fashion department embraces almost every high street brand as well as emerging design talent. The cosmetics hall on the ground floor takes in the big names and cult imports from Europe and the US,

while a branch of modern holistic chemist Farmacia offers organic options on the fifth. The food hall features cuisine from around the globe; the shoe department has been revamped with glamorous mini salons of exclusive labels Jimmy Choo (see also p77) and YSL; there’s an Agent Provocateur outpost (see also p67) in the massive lingerie section; and the expanded sports department includes must-have surfing and skateboard labels. The slick Superbrands section has also created a buzz. Accessed through a red resin tunnel, it consists of eight hot designers, including Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen and Balenciaga, grouped around a branch of sumptuous, souk-style Moroccan restaurant Mômo (see also p34), which provides respite from traipsing round the store’s six massive floors.

When Oxford Street heaves with people, explore the shops on quieter, parallel smaller streets

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Shopping

St Christopher’s Place

shopping oasis

8 C3

Pedestrian square, W1 For individual shop details, see pp222–5

Opposite Bond Street Tube station, a narrow alleyway leading off Oxford Street (Gees Court) widens into a hidden square with shops and eateries. This appealing enclave features a modern fountain and is dominated by a large branch of Italian gourmet café chain Carluccio’s. Drinkers from the pub opposite spill out onto the pavement, and you can often catch live jazz on summer nights. Shopping highlights include a branch of Mulberry (11–12 Gees Court; see also p69) and the spacious flagship of women’s chain Whistles

Margaret Howell

updated British classics

(12 St Christopher’s Place), which stocks hot designers alongside the shop’s own-label – signature styles include bias-cut dresses and modern tailoring. Next door, Osprey is the place for mid-priced, classic British-designed handbags (structured shapes in mock croc are a key look), while across the way at Nos. 20–21, former theatrical “shodders” Anello & Davide, who made Dorothy’s ruby slippers for The Wizard of Oz, sells a range of men’s and women’s shoes, hand-crafted in Italy. There’s also a branch of Scandinavian fabric company Marimekko (Nos. 16–17), which is known for its bright abstract patterns, featuring on everything from bags to bedding.

8 C2

34 Wigmore Street, W1 • 020 7009 9009 www.margarethowell.co.uk Open 10–6 Mon–Sat (to 7pm Thu)

This vast, gallery-style space showcases the designer’s collections for men and women, and a selection of simple tableware and vintage and reissued post-War furniture. The clothes are best described as relaxed modern classics, made of quality British fabrics suited to the national climate, such as tweed and cashmere.

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Centre Mint

8 C2

unusual designer homewares

70 Wigmore Street, W1 • 020 7224 4406 Open 10:30–6:30 Mon–Sat (to 7:30pm Thu)

Mint brings together an international collection of furniture and homewares, a mix of the ultra-modern and the antique, made by both established designers and recent graduates. Pottery and glassware are handmade and appealingly asymmetrical. Even tea towels are elevated from the ordinary by lovely prints.

Paul Rothe

traditional delicatessen

8 C2

35 Marylebone Lane, W1 • 020 7935 6783 Open 8–6 Mon–Fri, 11:30–approx 5:30 Sat

Established in 1900, this old-fashioned deli is run by the original Rothe’s grandson and great-grandson, who wear dapper white coats. Chunky soup and neatly cut sandwiches are served on proper china, while the “English and foreign provisions” include preserves, traditional sweets and Scottish biscuits.

Calmia

yoga emporium & spa retreat

8 C1

52–4 Marylebone High St, W1 • 020 7224 3585 www.calmia.com Open 10–9 Mon–Sat, 10–7 Sun

Yoga has never been so chic. While achieving inner peace, you can look fabulous in expensive gear from supermodel Christy Turlington’s Nuala range or DKNY Pure. Everything related to yoga is here, from mats and relaxation tapes to candles and organic skincare. Luxurious spa treatments are available downstairs.

Sixty 6

creative mix ‘n’ match for women

8 C1

66 Marylebone High Street, W1 • 020 7224 6066 Open 10:30–6:30 Mon–Sat, 1–5 Sun

Embroidery and beading abound at this shop celebrating eclectic, feminine style. Separates are often paired up in unusual combinations, providing plenty of inspiration. Designs by the likes of Temperley, Megan Park and Roland Mouret are supplemented by pretty scarves and bags. Newly fashionable Marylebone High Street also has a branch of the Conran Shop (see p78)

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Shopping Daunt Books

elegant shop for travellers

8 C1

83 Marylebone High Street, W1 • 020 7224 2295 Open 9–7:30 Mon–Sat (to 7 Thu), 11–6 Sun

Arguably London’s most beautiful bookshop, Daunt retains its original Edwardian character, with oak shelves and green-shaded lamps. General titles are in the front; the galleried rear conservatory is devoted to travel and related fiction organized by country. It’s a great place to browse even if you’re not planning a trip.

Skandium

nordic interiors

8 C1

86–7 Marylebone High Street, W1 • 020 7935 2077 www.skandium.com Open 10–6:30 Mon–Sat, 11–5 Sun

The flagship shop offers the best of Scandinavia’s clean, contemporary design under one roof. Compare the modern-classic furniture by Alvar Aalto and Arne Jacobsen with the functional yet fashionable tableware, accessories, books and jewellery.

Madeleine Press

understated urban styles

8 C1

90 Marylebone High Street, W1 • 020 7935 9301 www.mpress.com Open 10:30–6:30 Mon–Sat (to 7pm Thu); 11:30–4:30 Sun

The designer behind the late, lamented Press & Bastyan has gone solo with an exquisitely simple womenswear collection that exudes effortless chic. Neat jackets, body-draping cotton tops, slip dresses and slim jeans are characteristic pieces.

La Fromagerie

divine deli

8 C2

2–4 Moxon Street, W1 • 020 7935 0341 www.lafromagerie.co.uk Open 10:30–7:30 Mon, 8–7:30 Tue–Fri, 9–7 Sat, 10–6 Sun

Known for its “cave” packed with cheeses from independent producers across Europe, this rusticmodern shop also sells condiments, bread, coffee, wines and charcuterie. Sample these at the in-store café, or ask for a picnic box to take to Regent’s Park.

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Centre & West Prestat

high-class chocolatier

9 E4

14 Princes Arcade, SW1 • 020 7629 4838 www.prestat.co.uk Open 9:30–6 Mon–Fri, 10–5 Sat

This tiny shop looks like a chocolate box itself, its shelves covered in fabulously packaged, handmade confectionery. Choose from traditional mint wafers, rose and violet creams and fondants, or such newfangled sweet treats as banoffee truffles, presented in old-fashioned boxes with flamboyant hues.

Patrick Cox

slick designer shoes

14 B2

129 Sloane Street, SW1 • 020 7730 8886 www.patrickcox.co.uk Open 10–6 (to 7pm Wed), noon–6 Sun

The Canadian designer launched his label in London in the 1980s and has recently revitalized the French brand Charles Jourdan. Shoes for men and women are on the flashy side, with mod and punk influences, bright colours and glitzy trims. The diffusion range, Wannabe, offers basics with a designer edge.

Jo Malone

luxury skincare & fragrances

14 B2

150 Sloane Street, SW1 • 020 7730 2100 www.jomalone.co.uk Open 10–6 (to 7pm Wed, Thu & Fri), 11–5 Sun

Gorgeous scents greet you upon entering this classy store. The skincare range is simple yet effective, while fragrances are based on delectable ingredients such as orange blossom, nutmeg, ginger – even coffee. Enjoy a sample with a complimentary hand massage.

Maria Grachvogel

glamorous dresses

14 B2

162 Sloane Street, SW1 • 020 7245 9331 www.mariagrachvogel.com Open 10–6 Mon–Sat (to 7pm Wed)

Popular with the crème of Hollywood, Grachvogel’s sophisticated evening dresses celebrate the female form with simple, body-skimming lines, sensuous fabrics and subtle detailing of feathers or sequins. In this glamorous, pink-walled shop, you’ll also find the designer’s collection of understated yet sexy daywear.

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Shopping

Elizabeth Street

sophisticated shopping

14 C2

Off Eaton Square, SW1 For individual shop details, see pp223–5

A short stroll from Knightsbridge is this attractive street with a diverse selection of appealing shops. The friendly perfumery Les Senteurs at No. 71 sells unusual European fragrances, such as Annick Goutal and Parfums Caron. If you’ve bagged a ticket to Ascot or just want to turn heads with an exquisite trilby or extravagant, feathered creation, visit celebrated hatter Philip Treacy at No. 69. Across the street at No. 46 is wonderful French bakery Poilâne, where you can buy authentic croissants, fruit tarts and rustic loaves

– at a price. At No. 42 is the bright, cheerful shop of British designer Tracey Boyd, where girlish strappy dresses, cute short-sleeved blouses and flared skirts in fun patterns are strengths. Jeweller Erickson Beamon at No. 38 is a long-standing favourite never long out of the fashion press. Dramatically cascading gold chains and beads make for a strong signature look. If you’re flagging, have a cup of the best hot chocolate you’ve ever tasted at The Chocolate Society shop and café at No. 36 – the society is dedicated to promoting high-quality chocolate. Opposite, at No. 45, is gorgeous modern florist Woodhams, which is worth visiting just to breathe the scented air.

Anya Hindmarch

personalized bags

14 B2

15–17 Pont Street, SW1 • 020 7838 9177 www.anyahindmarch.com Open 10–6 Mon–Sat (to 7pm Wed)

Hindmarch is known for classic bags printed with striking images. You can have one made up with your own photo. She also makes impeccable leather bags, including the popular double-handled Ebury, which you can have embossed inside with a personal message. Dainty shoes are also on offer.

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West Lulu Guinness

head-turning bags & more

14 B2

3 Ellis Street, SW1 • 020 7823 4828 www.luluguinness.com Open 10–6 Mon–Fri, 11–6 Sat

With its nostalgic illustrations and vintage fashion ads, this shop’s décor is as striking as the witty handbags on display. Guinness’s creations include a flower pot bursting with fabric roses and an embroidered circus tent complete with performing seal. Her retro-look cosmetics range is also sold.

Neisha Crosland

contemporary fabrics

14 A3

137 Fulham Rd, SW3 • 020 7589 4866 Open 10–6, noon–5 Sun 8 Elystan Street, SW3 • 020 7584 7988 Open 10–5:30 Mon–Sat www.neishacrosland.com

Neisha Crosland started out designing scarves and has branched out into clothes, accessories and home furnishings, all in her striking abstract prints. The tiny Fulham Road shop sells her Ginka fashion label; go round the corner for cushions and wallpaper.

Joseph

high-class urban separates

13 H3

77 Fulham Road, SW3 • 020 7823 9500 Open 10–6:30 Mon–Sat (to 7 Wed), 12–5 Sun

Joseph’s de luxe basics, especially his well-cut trousers, have devoted fans. This minimalist flagship sells his collection alongside pieces from Prada, YSL and Marni; the basement is devoted to designer shoes. Across Draycott Street, Joseph Essentials, Gigi boutique and Joe’s Cafe complete the colony.

Jimmy Choo

celebrated designer heels

14 A3

169 Draycott Avenue, SW3 • 020 7584 6111 www.jimmychoo.com Open 10–6 (to 7pm Wed), 1–6 Sun

This plush Chelsea townhouse, with plush couches for luxurious lounging, is devoted to Jimmy Choo’s fabulous footwear and handbags. The sleek styles are subtle enough not to date next season – essential when you’re splashing out hundreds. The bridal range caters for those who demand the best on their big day. Harvey Nichols’ top floor restaurant and bar is an ideal stop-off during Knightsbridge shopping (see p79)

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Shopping The Conran Shop

Sir Terence’s place

14 A2

Michelin House, 81 Fulham Rd, SW3 • 020 7589 7401 www.conran.com Shop open 10–6 Mon, Tue, Fri, 10–7 Wed, Thu, 10–6:30 Sat, 12–6 Sun. Bibendum restaurant lunch & dinner daily; Oyster Bar all day from noon daily

Iconic designer and entrepreneur Terence Conran has housed his London flagship in the magnificent former HQ of Michelin Tyres. This curious Art Deco building, which features stained-glass panels depicting the Michelin Man and is crowned with lights in the form of stacked tyres, is also home to Conran’s acclaimed Bibendum restaurant on the first floor (expensive modern European cuisine). For the best views of the

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architectural curiosity, enter via the front portico with its picturesque flower stall and cart selling crustacea and fresh fish. This entrance is also the setting for the tiled Oyster Bar (less formal, but no cheaper, than the main restaurant). In the shop, a more affordable line of contemporary furniture, Content by Conran, is now sold alongside the main collection of classic modernist designs. In fact, there are many reasonably priced items for home, garden and office. There’s also a selection of high-tech gadgets, including the latest cameras, and a good range of bath products, coffee-table books and high-quality children’s toys.

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West Kate Kuba

high-fashion footwear

14 B3

22 Duke of York Sq, King’s Road, SW3 • 020 7259 0011 www.katekuba.com Open 10–6:30 (to 7pm Wed), noon–6 Sun

This North London shoe shop has recently expanded into the city centre, and divas Mary J Blige and Beyoncé are already fans of its flamboyant footwear. Stock in this spacious, contemporary branch runs from basic loafers to jewelled killer heels. Flashy variations on the cowboy boot are a perennial favourite.

Oliver Sweeney

men’s shoes

14 B3

29 King’s Road, SW3 • 020 7730 3666 www.oliversweeney.com Open 10–7 (to 8 Wed), 12–6 Sun

A combination of comfort, craftmanship and cool has made the shoes of choice for David Beckham, Brad Pitt and Noel Gallagher. A wide range of traditional and more cutting-edge styles is available (including smart leather trainers), all made on Sweeney’s supportive Anatomical Last.

Korres

natural Greek skincare

14 A3

124 King’s Road, SW3 • 020 7581 6455 www.korres.com Open 10–7 Mon–Sat, noon–6 Sun

This long, narrow shop is stocked with the Athenian company’s products for skin and hair, all in vivid packaging. Tantalizing aromas emanate from lotions based on olives, rosemary and other natural plant extracts characteristic of Greece. Anti-cellulite creams and sun milks are part of the range.

Department Stores London has excellent department stores. In Knightsbridge, you really can buy anything in Harrods, where even the chandeliers are dripping with grapes. Nearby at sophisticated Harvey Nichols the focus is on designer fashion; ladies who lunch love the Fifth Floor restaurant at “Harvey Nicks”. On Piccadilly, elegant Fortnum & Mason is famous for its food

hall, staffed by frock-coated assistants and selling such oddities as dried edible insects among the quaintly packaged teas and jams. A short stroll up Bond Street leads to Fenwick, which has the feel of a boutique and is renowned for accessories. On Oxford Street, John Lewis has affordable basics, while Selfridges (see p71) steals the show. For all shop details, see p222.

London’s big stores all have sales twice a year, in January and July

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Shopping Designers Guild

modern homewares

14 A4

267 & 277 King’s Road, SW3 • 020 7351 5775 www.designersguild.com Open 10–6 Mon–Sat, noon–5 Sun (fabric shop closed on Sun)

Who says modern design has to be muted and minimal? Tricia Guild’s contemporary emporium explodes with colour and pattern. There are cushions, bedding, funky fashion accessories, furniture, a children’s range, stationery, bath products and design books.

Antiquarius

antiques emporium

14 A4

131–41 King’s Road, SW3 • 020 7351 5353 www.antiquarius.co.uk Open 10–6 Mon–Sat

Many of the stalls behind the green awnings of Antiquarius sell antique furniture, but there are other smaller treasures to be found, too. A few antique jewellery stalls at the front are worth a browse; otherwise go to the back room for rare finds such as vintage Louis Vuitton luggage and original movie posters.

Space.NK

cult cosmetics and a spa

7 F3

127–31 Westbourne Grove, W2 • 020 7727 8063 www.spacenk.com Open 11–7 Mon, 10–7 Tue, Fri, Sat, 10–8 Wed, noon–6 Sun

This capacious branch of the beauty-products empire has a spa on the ground floor, offering luxurious treatments. Upstairs there is a vast array of cosmetics from around the world, as well as Space.NK’s own range, which includes grooming for the boys.

202

lifestyle shop and café

7 F3

202 Westbourne Grove, W11 • 020 7792 6888 www.nicolefarhi.com Open 8:30–6 (from 10am Mon), 10–5 Sun

Nicole Farhi’s “lifestyle” store brings together an airy, French-style café buzzing with beautiful people, selected pieces from Farhi’s collections for both men and women (trademarks are relaxed separates in natural fabrics, chunky sweaters and sheepskin coats), home accessories and a smattering of antique furniture.

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West Bill Amberg

leather goods

7 E2

10 Chepstow Road, W2 • 020 7727 3560 www.billamberg.com Open 10–6 Mon–Sat (to 7pm Thu), 11–4 Sun

Long-established leather designer Bill Amberg produces unfussy, high-quality bags and accessories in calfskin, suede and bridle leather. There are also sheepskin-lined baby slings, and, for hunters, gun cases and a cartridge belt.

Miller Harris

exquisite London perfumery

7 E3

14 Needham Road, W11 • 020 7221 1545 www.millerharris.com Open 10–4 Mon & Tue, 10–6 Wed–Sat

Lyn Harris trained in Grasse – the perfume capital on the French Riviera – before opening this London shop. Her gorgeous scents have a complexity that transcends most department store fragrances, yet the prices are comparable. You may even have your own bespoke perfume created if you can wait several weeks.

Rough Trade

legendary indie record shop

6 D3

130 Talbot Road, W11 • 020 7229 8541 www.roughtrade.com Open 10–6:30 Mon–Sat, 12–5 Sun

Established more than 25 years ago, Rough Trade was an essential outpost of the London punk scene. It’s still flying the indie flag, offering everything from electro-pop to alternative country. Every inch of wall space is covered with gig fliers; selected records are displayed with hand-written staff recommendations.

J&M Davidson

neo-classic bags & clothes

6 D3

42 Ledbury Road, W11 • 020 7313 9532 www.jandmdavidson.com Open 10–6 Mon–Sat, noon–5 Sun

John and Monique are best known for their beautifully crafted bags. Based on classic shapes such as the bowling bag, and executed in offbeat colours and animal skins, they have an air of nostalgia. The Anglo-French duo also design tasteful, retroinfluenced clothes and home accessories. When shopping in West London, take a break in Holland Park (see p170)

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Shopping J W Beeton

eye-catching apparel

6 D3

48–50 Ledbury Rd, W11 • 020 7229 8874 Open 10:30–6 Mon–Fri, 10–6 Sat, noon–5 Sun

The look is fashionable yet individual at this small boutique, where you’ll find Fake London’s quirky takes on British classics rubbing shoulders on the rails with unusual patterned pieces from Panepinto, a label by an ex-Marni designer. Accessories from emerging home-grown talent add to the mix.

Simon Finch Rare Books

first editions

6 D3

61A Ledbury Rd, W11 • 020 7792 3303 www.simonfinch.com Open 10–6 Mon–Fri, 11–6 Sat

This groovy, white, pod-like branch of the antiquarian booksellers (the main store is in Maddox Street, W1) specializes in modern first editions of literature, art books and prints. Where else will you find a signed photo of the Sex Pistols and firsts of Lady Chatterley’s Lover and The Day of the Triffids under one roof?

Tonic

laidback clothing

6 D3

276 Portobello Road, W10 • 020 8962 0404 www.tonicuk.com Open 10–6 Mon–Fri, 11–6 Sat & Sun

Tonic is a clothing store with plenty of cool threads for men, and women. At their sister store at 291 Portobello Road, you’ll find labels like Diesel, John Smedley and G-Star. The look is relaxed with a heavy emphasis on denim.

Duchamp

flamboyant men’s accessories

6 D3

75 Ledbury Rd, W11 • 020 7243 3970 www.duchamp.co.uk Open 10–6 Tue–Sat

Modern dandies will delight in Duchamp’s flashy wares. The range of cufflinks is huge, from mini abstract artworks in painted enamel to extravagant creations studded with jewel-bright Swarovski crystals. Ties in contemporary patterns and shirts with flamboyant prints will have peacocks strutting with pride.

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West Intoxica!

rare vinyl in kitsch setting

6 D3

231 Portobello Road, W11 • 020 7229 8010 www.intoxica.co.uk Open 10:30–6:30 Mon–Sat, noon–5 Sun

A Polynesian tiki-hut interior complete with bamboo walls, indigenous gods and a model hula-dancer provides a bizarre backdrop to rare vinyl pop, jazz, ska, reggae and soul from the 50s to the 90s. Amid the surf, funk and punk are oddities such as We’re the Banana Splits and the soundtrack to Vixen.

Honest Jon’s

black music specialist

6 D3

278 Portobello Road, W10 • 020 8969 9822 www.honestjons.com Open 10–6 Mon–Sat, 11–5 Sun

This shop has been a fixture of the Portobello scene since 1974, selling a combination of vinyl and CDs. On the ground floor you’ll find reggae, funk, soul, hiphop and R&B; head downstairs for jazz embracing “outernational” sounds, plus blues, Portuguese fado, African pop and Indian classical.

Portobello Green

designer enclave

6 C2

Arcade at Ladbroke Grove end of Portobello Road, W10 For individual shop details, see p222–5; see also Streetlife p159

Nestling under the Westway overpass, this arcade looks rather uninspiring but is home to some very interesting shops. There is also a buzzing market in the courtyard on Fridays and Saturdays, with stalls selling new and vintage clothes. The arcade’s most celebrated resident is avant-garde design duo Preen at Unit 5 (open Thu–Sat only), whose deconstructed, punky clothes often feature asymmetric details, dangling straps and buckles. At Suite 20 (Unit 20, closed Wed), you’ll find retro-inspired separates and bags, some made in original 60s and 70s fabrics. The floaty, patterned chiffon and embroidered silk tops and dresses at Red Hot (Unit 9, closed Mon) have been seen on numerous celebrities. Bedstock (Unit 26) sells bedlinen and a range of camp cushions decorated with everything from cute kittens to Carmen Miranda and Mao. To pick up real rareties at Portobello market, get there early on Friday or Saturday

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Shopping Willma

hats, hairclips & a whole lot more

6 C2

339 Portobello Road, W10 • 020 8960 7296 www.willma.co.uk Open 11–6 Tue–Sat

If you’re after something different to liven up an outfit, this little shop specializes in fun accessories by upand-coming designers in the UK and abroad. Displayed on colourful perspex units is every kind of thing from cute knitted hats to quirky socks – with striking jewellery, bags and belts in between.

Coco Ribbon

girly emporium

6 C3

21 Kensington Park Road, W11 • 020 7229 4904 www.cocoribbon.com Open 10–6:30 (to 6pm Sat), 12:30–5:30 Sun

Half the stock is Australian, and much is embroidered, frilled or adorned with feathers. You’ll find sequined cushions, glam costume jewellery, designer dresses and books such as The Lazy Girl’s Guide to a Fabulous Body displayed on antique boudoir furniture.

Paul Smith

all the designer’s collections

6 D4

120 & 122 Kensington Park Road, W11 • 020 7727 3553 www.paulsmith.co.uk Open 10:30–6:30 Mon–Thu, 10–6:30 Fri & Sat

In this rambling stucco house, Smith’s exquisite classic-with-a-twist men’s and women’s collections are draped artlessly over antique tables or hung in oversized wardrobes. The Playroom displays children’s clothes alongside toys.

Marilyn Moore

funky, feminine knitwear

6 C3

7 Elgin Crescent, W11 • 020 7727 5577 Open 10–6 Mon–Sat

Marilyn Moore worked for Jaeger before launching her own label, so it’s not surprising her collection includes modern interpretations of British classics. While the main focus in-store is on luxurious knitwear – ribbontrimmed cashmere, or vintage-look argyle – there’s also a range of updated traditional separates.

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West Graham & Green

eclectic home stores

6 C3

4 & 10 Elgin Crescent, W11 • 020 7727 4594 www.grahamandgreen.co.uk Open 10–6 Mon–Sat, 11:30–5:30 Sun

A popular source of inspiration for magazine interior stylists, these two family-run shops are a browsable, global jumble of furniture and oddments. Mongolian lambswool cushions, silk kimonos, Venetian mirrors and vintage-style radios are among the offerings.

The Cross

chic lifestyle boutique

6 C4

141 Portland Road, W11 139 • 020 7727 6760 Cross The Road, 139 Portland Road (Interiors) Open 11–5:30 Mon–Sat

This unassuming, white-painted boutique attracts devoted fashion folk. The ground floor is packed with pretty home accessories, cult-brand toiletries, children’s clothes and toys, while downstairs there are feminine separates from European and US designers.

Rellik

vintage designer gear

6 C1

8 Golborne Road, W10 • 020 8962 0089 Open 10–6 Tue–Sat

This is an outpost of fabulous vintage in a wasteland of housing estates (the name plays on the Trellick Tower opposite, and spells “killer” backwards). London fashion celebrities are often spotted scanning the 1970s Liberty-print frocks and accessories by Zandra Rhodes, Vivienne Westwood and others.

Chain Stores Global fashion chains rub shoulders on every major shopping street in the capital, but there are some British labels that stand out from the crowd. Popular Jigsaw bridges the gap between budget and designer, with well-made, feminine womenswear. Younger, hipper and cultivating an irreverent image with its double-entendre name is FCUK, which

offers high-quality casual clothes for both sexes. The Karen Millen empire has built on the enduring success of her sharp, sexy suits and figureflattering dresses. And let’s not forget good old Marks & Spencer: as well as its excellent lingerie ranges, it has harnessed designer talent to great effect in its Autograph and Per Una collections. For individual shop details, see pp222–5.

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Shopping Saloon

4 A4

style shop

23 Arlington Way, EC1 • 020 7278 4497 www.saloonshop.co.uk Open 11–7 Mon, Wed–Fri, 11–6 Tue, noon–6 Sat

Unusual patterns and colours are the unifying factors in the medley of stock at this boutique. There are clothes by independent designers, handmade jewellery, Marimekko homewares, unusual stationery and one-off pieces by product designers.

Lara Bohinc 107

super-chic jewellery

5 E5

51 Hoxton Square, N1 • 020 7684 1465 www.larabohinc107.co.uk Open 10–6:30 Mon–Fri only

Slovenian-born designer Bohinc creates unusual jewellery in precious metals ranging from delicate, finely detailed pieces to dramatic geometric styles. Her store is the epitome of arty chic, set in groundbreaking designer Alexander McQueen’s former studio next to the cool White Cube Gallery.

Hoxton Boutique

edgy urban chic

5 E5

2 Hoxton Street, N1 • 020 7684 2083 www.hoxtonboutique.co.uk Open 10–6 Mon–Fri, 11–5 Sat

This boutique fits in well with Hoxton’s painfully hip bars. As well as urbanwear by cutting-edge designers such as Vivienne Westwood and Eley Kishimoto, there’s the shop’s own label, characterized by directional design and printed pieces with a punky feel.

Magma

modern design bookshop

10 A1

117–19 Clerkenwell Road, EC1 • 020 7242 9503 www.magmabooks.com Open 10–7 Mon–Sat

Colourful covers line the walls of this art and design bookshop, which has a leather sofa for relaxed browsing. As well as works on graphic design, advertising and photography, there are avant-garde illustrated books that are definitely not for kids, hip stationery and many obscure magazines. (See also p62.)

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City & East Smallfish Records

quality music

5 E5

329 Old Street, EC1 • 020 7739 2252 www.smallfish.co.uk Open 3–8pm Mon, 11am–8pm Tue–Sat (to 5pm Sun)

Smallfish Records has such a vast selection of music that it is hard to classify what they sell. With an emphasis on vinyl (although they also sell CDs), the shop is organised by genre, with areas designated to the likes of Hip Hop, Guitar Based or Experimental.

Story

unique shop-cum-gallery

11 F1

4 Wilkes Street, E1 • 020 7377 0313 Open 1–7 daily

In a lovely period street, this extraordinary retail space looks like a contemporary gallery and sells an interesting mix of items. Immaculate vintage frocks, antique furniture, reclaimed hotel and airline linen, and simply packaged natural toiletries are set among beautiful dried leaves and shells.

Artcadia

printed wall hangings

11 F1

108 Commercial St, E1 • 020 7426 0733 www.artcadia.co.uk Open 10–5:30 Mon–Fri, 10:30–6 Sun, 10-4 Sat

Artcadia’s digital prints are an easy way to give a room instant contemporary cred. Buy “off the peg” in the gallery or choose from a wide range of up-to-date patterns and images, from groovy abstracts to flowers, printed up on any size of canvas.

A Gold

British foodstuffs

11 E1

42 Brushfield Street, E1 • 020 7247 2487 Open 11–8 Mon–Fri, 11–6 Sun, closed Sat

This wonderful old shop near Spitalfields Market sells traditional British foods, many in attractive oldfashioned packaging. Wild boar pancetta from Cumbria, Stinking Bishop cheese from Gloucestershire, Yorkshire Brack (fruitbread), English wine and honey made from hives kept on a rooftop in London all make great gifts. The area around Spitalfields comes alive on Sundays (see p161); only a few places are open on Saturdays

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Shopping Cheshire Street

unusual homewares

5 F5

Off Brick Lane, E1 Market open Sun; shops Sat & Sun For individual shop details, see pp222–5

A cluster of interesting home accessory shops has appeared on this Brick Lane sidestreet, which on Sundays is lined with market stalls selling everything from bedlinen to hardware. Most shops are only open at weekends – it’s best to ring first. Inexterior (No. 14) sells an enticing mix of furry cushions, handmade crockery and pretty clothes. At No. 16, Mar Mar Co deals predominantly in colourful Scandinavian tableware and interior accessories. Labour and Wait (No. 18) is a wonderful source of oldfashioned British household items, from vintage watering cans, earthenware jars and clothespegs to hand-knitted Guernsey sweaters and Welsh blankets. For unique gifts, Shelf (No. 40) showcases modern decorative items by British and European artists, such as jokey, illustrated mugs, notebooks and tiles. Next door at Mimi there are handmade leather bags.

Tatty Devine

11 F1

witty trinkets

Rokit

all sorts of second-hand clothes

11 F1

236 Brick Lane, E2 • 020 7739 9009 www.tattydevine.com Open 10–6 Mon–Fri, 11–5 Sat & Sun

101 & 107 Brick Lane, E1 • 020 7375 3864 www.rokit.co.uk Open 11–7 Mon–Fri, 10–7 Sat & Sun

Bracelets made of colourful guitar picks, earrings that dangle tiny LPs, and tape-measure belts… Tatty Devine’s ironic trashy trinkets have attained cult status. Also for sale at the design duo’s shop/studio are fun, punky, printed T-shirts and arty postcards, while the walls are given over to temporary exhibitions.

From a small second-hand shop in Camden in the 80s, Rokit has expanded, with a store in Covent Garden, as well as these premises sprawling over two storefronts. The diverse stock is in great condition, encompassing jeans, leather jackets, army gear, vintage dresses, quirky accessories and customized items.

Comfort & Joy

chic & cheap boutique

4 B3

109 Essex Road, N1 • 020 7359 3898 Open 10:30–6 Mon–Sat

Fed up with chain-store fashion? Try this unpretentious boutique; it sells reasonably priced womenswear designed and made on the premises. Stylish without slavishly following catwalk trends, the simple clothes often sport interesting prints or subtle details such as piping or a crossover neckline.

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To find out about antiques sales in London, check

www.elondon.dk.com

City, East & North

Upper Street

furnishings & fashion

4 B2

Islington, N1 For individual shop details, see pp222–5

As befits one of London’s centres of affluent living, Islington has no shortage of stylish interior shops on its main street. Contemporary emporium Aria at Nos. 295–6 has wares for every room of the house by the likes of Philippe Starck and Alessi, while its satellite shop across the street at No. 133 stocks cards, leather notebooks, frames and understated designer bags. Heading north, twentytwentyone at No. 274 combines immaculate modern-classic and new pieces of furniture. After Noah (No. 121) stocks an irresistible jumble of vintage and vintage-style items in a barn-

like space – old-fashioned dial phones, antique metal tins, toys and retro toiletries. The empire of Gill Wing spans several diverse, high-quality shops: No. 182 showcases modern jewellery; the cookshop at No. 190 sells all the kitchen paraphernalia you could need, with kitschy touches such as feather-trimmed washing-up gloves; and there are Gill Wing shoe and gift shops nearby, too. Bringing a high-fashion touch to the strip is Scorah Pattullo (No. 137), with footwear by big names like Miu Miu and Gucci, and intriguing boutique Labour of Love (No. 193), selling an assortment of items such as handmade knickers, and clothes by Visconti’s granddaughter that are inspired by classic cinema.

For more on Brick Lane and the Spitalfields area, see pp160–1

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Shopping Camden Passage

antiques & curios

4 B3

Cobbled lane in Islington, N1 Antiques market Wed & Sat; book market Thu. For individual shop details, see pp224–5

This narrow, meandering continuation of Islington High Street is jammed with antiques shops and market stalls, which are busiest on Saturdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays. En route, check out the Rock Archive gallery at No. 110 Islington High Street for limitededition prints of British greats such as Paul Weller and Pete Townshend. Tiny, atmospheric shops are hidden away in the poky Pierrepont Arcade: Caroline Carrier’s nook is piled high with 18th- and 19thcentury porcelain. Judith Lassalle sells antique puzzles and games, and Jubilee Photographica deals in photographs from the 19th century onwards. Near the junction of Charlton Place is Origin, for 1930s–50s furniture by the likes of Eames, and Annie’s Vintage Clothes, which has well-preserved flapper dresses. The Victorian Camden Head pub is conveniently placed for mid-rummage refreshment.

Primrose Hill Nexus

village shops

2 B2

Regent’s Park Road, NW1 For individual shop details, see pp222–5

An array of inviting shops nestles between the cosy cafés of Regent’s Park Road, Primrose Hill’s villagey main street. Anna at No. 126 serves the area’s affluent residents a mix of fashion from designers as diverse as Betty Jackson, Orla Kiely and Maharishi, plus pieces from newly graduated talent and unusual British-made cashmere sweaters. A few doors along, compact Primrose Hill Books has many signed copies from local authors. There’s a branch of interiors shop Graham & Green (see also p85) at No. 164, while at No. 170 Studio Perfumery offers seductive European scents from Acqua di Parma, L’Artisan Perfumeur, Serge Lutens and others. Around the corner at No. 13 Princess Road, Rachel Skinner sells exquisite hats, ranging from trimmed, updated trilbies and cloches for everyday wear to fabulous one-off feathered or floral creations for Ascot and weddings.

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North & South Oxo Tower Wharf

craft studios

10 A4

Bargehouse Street, SE1 • 020 7401 2255 www.oxotower.co.uk Open 11–6 Tue–Sat For individual shop details, see p224

This London landmark on the South Bank is a hotbed of creativity, housing over 30 designers’ studios. The stylish Oxo Tower Restaurant, Brasserie and Bar (see p54) commands great river views at the top. There’s a diverse assortment of interesting goods, including jewellery, fashion, accessories and textiles. Don’t miss funky handmade children’s clothes by Bunny London (worn by Madonna’s little material girl Lourdes). Black+Blum offers quirky, affordable designs, such as a lamp in the shape of a figure (the lightbulb) reading a book (the shade), and a rubber doorstop in the shape of a man pushing the door open. Bodo Sperlein specializes in elegant bone china and sculptural lighting. Hip duo Odie & Amanda design bold hand-printed dresses, slinky tops and tailored tweeds.

Lower Marsh/The Cut

hidden gems

10 A5

Roads behind Waterloo Station, SE1 For individual shop details, see pp219–25

There’s still something of old-fashioned London in Lower Marsh, a slender side road that feels a world away from all the pomp and ceremony by the Thames on the other side of Waterloo. The nostalgia is especially strong in shops such as Radio Days (a real joy to browse at No. 87) and What the Butler Wore (No. 131), both of which sell a well-selected range of vintage clothing of the mid- to late 20th century. The small daily market deals mostly in cheap fashions and CDs. In contrast, Grammex at No. 25, is a refined shop for classical records and CDs. Cafés around here offer fry-ups, sushi and Cuban food. Over on The Cut is the excellent Calder Bookshop (No. 51). This publisher has an impressive list of 20th-century literary heavyweights, including all the main works of Samuel Beckett, and the shop is a venue for talks and poetry readings.

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art & architecture Some of the world’s most treasured cultural artifacts and paintings are gathered in London’s blockbuster museums and grand mansions. The city’s architecture is a thrilling ad hoc mix of medievalism, stately classicism and dynamic bursts of modernism. And counterbalancing the historical heavyweights is a thriving contemporary art scene, centred on East London.

Art & Architecture

Somerset House

a treasury of culture

9 H3

Strand, WC2 • 020 7845 4600 www.somerset-house.org.uk Galleries open 10–6 daily (last entry 5:15)

A stately building set around a grand courtyard, Somerset House contains three galleries. Gloriously free of crowds, the Courtauld Institute of Art Gallery numbers some formidable Impressionist and PostImpressionist paintings among its superb collection: Gauguin’s Nevermore, Manet’s Bar at the FoliesBergère and Van Gogh’s Self Portrait with Bandaged Ear, to name a few. It also has some splendid early Flemish and Italian paintings, including Fra Angelico’s Man of Sorrows and Quentin Metsys’s sublime Virgin and Child with Angels. The Hermitage Rooms echo the style of the famous namesake museum in St Petersburg and are used to exhibit changing displays on loan from the enormous Hermitage collection. The Gilbert Collection was opened in 2000. It focuses on the decorative arts,

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with a glittering array of gilt snuff boxes, European silverware and jewel-encrusted objets d’art. Reminiscent of a European piazza, the courtyard at the centre of Somerset House sparkles with illuminated fountains on summer evenings. In mid-July it is used as the venue for a series of outdoor gigs, with artists such as Goldfrapp, Röyksopp and Calexico performing. Most spectacularly, an outdoor ice rink is installed in the courtyard in winter (late Nov to late Jan), offering skating sessions to the public. The south wing of the building is home to a plush Modern European restaurant The Admiralty (020 7845 4646), which also runs a year-round deli/café and the Summer Café on the River Terrace. The terrace runs the length of the building on the Thames side; you can walk along it whether you’ve come here for a meal, a coffee or simply for the views. In summer the river is largely obscured by plane trees, but to the east you can glimpse St Paul’s, and to the west are the Gothic towers of Westminster. Adm to galleries

For information on current exhibitions in London, check

www.elondon.dk.com

Centre Theatre Museum

behind the scenes

9 G3

7 Russell Street, WC2 • 020 7943 4700 www.theatremuseum.org Open 10–6 Tue–Sun

A rambling foray into the past and future of theatre in London. The work of theatrical pioneers such as Edward Gordon Craig and Peter Brook is brought to the fore through archive film, set designs and models. Enthusiastic guides tell stories about famous performers, and there are make-up demonstrations.

Photographers’ Gallery

pics & books

9 F3

5 & 8 Great Newport Street, WC2 • 020 7831 1772 www.photonet.org.uk Open 11–6 Mon–Sat (to 8 Thu), noon–6 Sun

Occupying two sites – one with a vegetarian café, the other with a great bookshop – the gallery presents London’s most concentrated programme of photography exhibitions. Some shows are devoted to new talent, others to high-profile names such as Robert Capa.

Sainsbury Wing of the National Gallery

9 F4 the oldest Masters

Trafalgar Square, SW1 • 020 7747 2885 Crivelli’s Garden (restaurant) 020 7747 2869 www.nationalgallery.org.uk Open 10–6 daily (to 9pm Wed)

The East Wing and main rooms of the National Gallery can be horribly crowded. By comparison, the Sainsbury Wing is relatively quiet, and its modern design provides the perfect lighting conditions for close viewing of the oldest and most precious works in the National’s collection – the Early Renaissance paintings. Among the greats on display are Leonardo’s pensive drawing of The Virgin and Child with St Anne and St John the Baptist (c. 1500), Botticelli’s mighty depiction of post-coitus Venus and Mars (c. 1485) and Jan van Eyck’s vivid Arnolfini Portrait (1434). The basement is the setting for major exhibitions. The first floor has a micro-gallery for referencing the entire collection via computer terminals, and also a good restaurant with views across Trafalgar Square. Admission to the Tate and National galleries, V&A and British Museum is free (but donations are welcome)

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Art & Architecture National Portrait Gallery

9 F4

St Martin’s Place, WC2 • 020 7306 0055 www.npg.org.uk Open 10–6 daily (to 9pm Thu & Fri)

A large assembly of images of prominent Britons, the collection includes the only known contemporaneous portrait of Shakespeare, fantastic miniatures by John Hilliard, and photographs by Cecil Beaton and David Bailey. For a chronological tour, start at the top and work down. The rooftop restaurant has great views.

ICA

institute of contemporary art

9 F5

The Mall, SW1 • 020 7930 3647, 020 7930 6393 (24 hour info) www.ica.org.uk Galleries open noon–7:30 daily

Once the rebellious upstart to the Royal Academy’s stuffy old order, the ICA is an institution itself these days. It retains a sense of adventure, however, mixing well-known artists with group shows of the young pretenders. It also has a two small cinemas, a theatre, a café-bar (open to 1am Tue–Sat) and a bookshop. Adm

Royal Sights Historic residences and other places connected with the British monarchy are magnets for visitors. Unfortunately, this means that many royal sights are over-crowded and overtly touristy. Of the palaces, Hampton Court in southwest London is the most satisfying: a vast Tudor estate set off by 60 acres of beautiful gardens banking the Thames. By contrast Buckingham Palace offers merely a perfunctory excursion around a handful of State Rooms. The neighbouring Queen’s Gallery is well worth a visit though; it was revamped in 2002 and displays selections from one of the world’s greatest collections of paintings. At the western edge of Kensington Gardens, Kensington Palace is an attractive building and has the wonderful Orangery (see p170), but contains only a collection of ceremonial dresses. (Some belonged to the late Princess Diana, which brings in a bit of a crowd.)

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The Tower of London is awash with the trappings of tourism (ice-cream vans, toy Beefeaters). It contains the glitzy Crown Jewels, which, in a measure designed to control the crowds, you are obliged to view from a slow-moving travelator. Nevertheless, the buildings and attendant history are deserving of their World Heritage Site status. Westminster Abbey offers a fascinating insight into British architecture and sovereignty, but in summer the queues stretch out into Parliament Square from early morning. There are free organ recitals in the abbey at 5:45pm on Sundays (the day when it is otherwise closed to visitors). Nearby St Margaret’s Church (see p99) provides a good alternative to the abbey. Other less crowded sights with a regal air include the Banqueting House (see p99) and, in southeast London, Eltham Palace (see p113) and the Queen’s House (see p112). For location details of all these sights, see p226.

www.elondon.dk.com

Centre Sir John Soane’s Museum

9 H2

13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2 • 020 7405 2107 www.soane.org Open 10–5 Tue–Sat (to 9pm first Tue of the month); tours at 2pm (first come, first served)

Sir John Soane (1753–1837) was a renowned architect in his day, and the interior of this unique, labyrinthine house is a testament to his passion for the Classical world. On the face of it, you are entering a Georgian terraced house, but Soane’s rebuilding throws into disarray the usual neatness of a Georgian interior. A dark, warm corridor gives way to a staircase spiralling up three floors. A succession of skylights – often glazed in yellow to bathe sculptures in what Soane perceived as a Mediterranean light – illuminates the jumbled rooms. At every turn you come across fragments of ancient sculptures and architectural mouldings. Among these are glimpses of an alternative London – beautifully drafted, but unfulfilled plans for betempled bridges, a royal palace for Green Park and a Neo-Classical Houses of Parliament. The ingenious design of the house reaches its high point in the Picture Room, formerly the stableyard of the house next door. As Soane’s painting collection grew, space became a problem, and so he installed hinged screens in the place of solid walls. An attendant will open up panels to reveal works by Turner and Piranesi, and the complete set of original paintings by Hogarth which make up The Rake’s Progress. In the New Picture Room (added after Soane’s death) is one of Canaletto’s finest works, View towards Santa Maria della Salute, Venice.

RIBA

architectural resource

8 D1

66 Portland Place, W1 • 020 7580 5533 www.riba.org Open 9–6 Mon–Fri, 9–5 Sat

The Royal Institute of British Architects puts on a range of shows, including homages to architectural greats. The RIBA building itself is a rather lovely 1930s Deco-Classical hybrid, with a café-restaurant and an excellent bookshop, where you can buy all manner of books on architecture and design. RIBA sells a cheap fold-out map by Architectural Dialogue, which pinpoints modern architecture in London

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Art & Architecture 9 F2 Great Court & Reading Room, British Museum entrance to the treasure house Great Russell St, WC1 • 020 7323 8000 www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk Museum open 10–5:30 daily (to 8:30 Thu & Fri); Great Court open to 11pm Thu–Sat

Architect Norman Foster’s reworking of the British Museum’s central courtyard has created a vast foyer beneath a curving glass roof at the heart of the building. Like a new city square, this is a great meeting area, with cafés surrounding the gleaming rotunda of the famous Reading Room. This is now a reference library for the BM’s collection, and also offers the best free Internet access in London. A staircase winds around the rotunda, leading up to the Court Restaurant, magnificently set at the level of the building’s pediments and architrave. From the courtyard, signs point off north, south, east and west to the various departments of the British Museum’s massive collection of artifacts – from Africa, Asia, Egypt, the Americas, Europe, Greece and Rome.

Dr Johnson’s House

literary pad

10 A2

17 Gough Square, EC4 • 020 7353 3745 www.drjohnsonshouse.org Open 11–5 Mon–Sat (to 5:30 summer)

The house where the doctor compiled the world’s first proper English dictionary in the mid-18th century was dutifully restored in the 20th. After a look around, head round the corner to one of Johnson’s favoured watering holes: Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese on Fleet Street. Adm

Temple Church

secret history

10 A3

Inner Temple, off Fleet St, EC4 • 020 7353 3470 www.templechurch.com Open Wed–Fri (usually)

This honey-stoned pot of a building dates from the 12th century when it was the church of the Knights Templar (see p168). Restored after World War II bomb damage, it has a round form (unusual in Britain) that echoes the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. There are free organ recitals at 1:15pm on Wednesdays.

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Centre St Margaret’s Church

stained glass

15 G1

Sanctuary, Parliament Square, SW1 • 020 7222 5152 www.westminster-abbey.org/stmargarets Open 9:30–3:45 Mon–Fri, 9:30–1:45 Sat, 2–5 Sun

Though often overlooked, St Margaret’s Church contains an amazing variety of stained glass. Especially notable are John Piper’s abstract designs of 1966, and fragments of the 19th-century Caxton Window (honouring the pioneer of printing) on the north aisle.

Banqueting House

grandiose building

9 G5

Whitehall, SW1 • 0870 751 5178 www.hrp.org.uk Open 10–5 Mon–Sat

An epic, heavenly Rubens ceiling and the architecture of Inigo Jones (the artist who brought Renaissance classicism to Britain) lure visitors. The video and audio tour are overly pompous, so it’s better to visit the place as part of the lively Old Westminster tour offered by Original London Walks (see p231). Adm

Tate Britain

more space for British art

15 G3

Millbank, SW1 • 020 7887 8000 www.tate.org.uk Open 10–5:50 daily

Ever since more than half of the Tate’s collection sailed off down the Thames to set up home in Tate Modern, the original gallery has had to work hard to retain its audience. This it has done with aplomb – sprucing up the interior, creating more viewing space and focusing on British art. There is now more room to wander an excellent, wide-ranging collection, taking in the homely landscapes of Constable, the world’s largest assemblage of Turners (grouped in the Clore Galleries), the landscape-influenced modernism of Hepworth and Moore, and the savage, existential paintings of Francis Bacon. More up-to-date works can be seen in the Art Now spaces, one of which is used especially for video work. There’s a good (and pricey) restaurant in the basement, where the dining area is surrounded by a fantastical mural depicting the “pursuit of rare foods”. Tate Britain hosts the annual Turner Prize for contemporary art, from October to December

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Art & Architecture The Art Boat

a waterborne Hirst

15 G3

Millbank Pier to Bankside Pier Operates 10am–5pm; 15-minute journey every 40 mins in each direction

Sporting Damien Hirst’s trademark coloured dots, the Art Boat zips between Tates Britain and Modern. The cost includes as many trips as you like in a day, and the pier at Tate Modern is useful for other sights – the Globe (see p130), St Paul’s (via the Millennium Bridge), Borough Market (see p163) and Southwark Cathedral.

Sackler Wing, RA

high-tech gallery space

9 E4

Burlington House, Piccadilly, W1 • 020 7300 8000 www.royalacademy.org.uk Open 10–6 daily (to 10pm Fri)

While the main gallery of the Royal Academy puts on blockbuster shows (Monet, the Summer Exhibition), the Lord Norman Foster-designed Sackler Wing offers greater variety and more surprises. Recent exhibitions include Flemish manuscripts, Tamara de Lempicka, and the minimalist landscapes of William Nicholson. Adm

St James’s Piccadilly

Wren’s joy

9 E4

197 Piccadilly, W1 • 020 7734 4511 www.st-james-piccadilly.org Open 8–7 daily

This Wren church of 1684 is said to have been the architect’s favourite. It’s a little haven from the busy street outside, with a beautifully structured interior and astounding 1680s wood carvings by Grinling Gibbons. There’s also an energetic programme of events, including recitals most afternoons at 1:10pm.

Wren’s London Christopher Wren’s influence on London stems from the Great Fire of 1666, after which he was put in charge of creating 51 new City churches and a new cathedral, St Paul’s. The ceiling and crypts of the cathedral are well worth viewing (8:30–4 Mon–Sat; adm). A beautiful wooden model in the crypt reveals Wren’s original, more Classical design for St Paul’s.

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St Stephen Walbrook provided a prototype for St Paul’s dome, and the steeple of St Mary-le-Bow shows Wren’s appreciation for the Classical architectural orders. St Bride’s off Fleet Street, meanwhile, provided inspiration, it is said, for the familiar tiered wedding cake. For location details, see p226. Original London Walks (see p231) do a Wren tour on Tuesday afternoons.

For ideas on how and where to buy art in London, see

www.elondon.dk.com

Centre & West The Wallace Collection

Old Masters

8 C2

Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1 • 020 7563 9500 www.the-wallace-collection.org Open 10–5 daily

A stately Georgian house is the setting for this outstanding collection, left to the nation in 1897. Highlights include Frans Hals’s hugely famous, flamboyantly moustached Laughing Cavalier, and a touching painting by Rembrandt of his son Titus. Two brilliant portraits by Van Dyck hang close by. There are also several lively painted sketches by Rubens, including an Adoration of the Magi and the celebrated Rainbow Landscape. The Wallace Collection also celebrates the artistry found in the weaponry of Europe and the Middle East in past centuries, and includes a pair of pistols with stocks intricately carved with images of Samson and Hercules. The glass-roofed central courtyard is where you’ll find Café Bagatelle, a very civilized and relaxing spot for afternoon tea.

Serpentine Gallery

contemporary art & architecture

7 H5

Kensington Gardens, W2 • 020 7402 6075 www.serpentinegallery.org Open 10–6 daily

Located in a former tea house in Kensington Gardens, the Serpentine has built a reputation for putting on solo shows by some of the big guns of contemporary art. Each year, moreover, a different architect is invited to create a one-off summer pavilion in the grounds just outside the gallery – Zaha Hadid, Daniel Libeskind and Oscar Niemeyer have created brilliant structures in previous years.

Brompton Oratory

Catholic encounter

14 A2

Brompton Rd, SW7 • 020 7808 0900 www.brompton-oratory.org.uk

Built in the 1880s but looking like a product of 17th-century Italy, the Oratory’s façade gives way to a full-on Baroque interior, with no surface escaping ornamentation. An arched and many-domed roof provides a canvas for heavenly images. At ground level, dark confessionals occupy every corner. Save money with the London Pass (www.visitlondon.com) if you want to visit a lot of attractions in one day

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Art & Architecture Exhibition Road

museum row

13 H2

Science Museum • 0870 8704868 www.sciencemuseum.org.uk Open 10–6 daily Natural History Museum • 020 7942 5000 www.nhm.ac.uk Open 10–5:50 Mon–Sat, 11–5:50 Sun V&A • 020 7942 2000 www.vam.ac.uk Open 10–5.45 daily (to 10pm Wed)

Three very different museums, each of world renown, lie at the Cromwell Road end of Exhibition Road. Animatronic dinosaurs and interactive exhibits in the Earth Galleries draw hordes of families to the Natural History Museum. Visitors of a more artistic leaning may appreciate more the building itself, a wonderful creation by Alfred Waterhouse, with carvings of living species on the west side, extinct species on the east. Meanwhile, anyone interested in technology will enjoy the neighbouring Science Museum, not least for Charles Babbage’s Difference Engine of 1832, a vastly complicated automatic calculator that’s often been described as the world’s first computer. With fewer child-pleasing features, the Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A) is less crowded than its neighbours and all the more enjoyable for this. In particular, the Pirelli Garden courtyard and the beautiful Morris and Gamble Rooms (where there’s a new restaurant) are delightfully restful places. Elsewhere in the museum are the Sculpture and Painting Galleries; the 20th Century Galleries, which focus on product design; a brilliant Photography Gallery; and the British Galleries, which feature fashion, furniture and interiors from 1500 to 1900.

Linley Sambourne House

13 E1

18 Stafford Terrace, W8 • 020 7602 3316 www.rbkc.gov.uk/linleysambournehouse Tours Sat & Sun

Home makeovers are nothing new, as proved by this beautifully preserved 1870s townhouse, former home of the noted Punch cartoonist. Glazed window boxes reflect the Victorian passion for conservatories, while bare patches behind paintings cruelly reveal the Sambournes’ frugal use of wallpaper. Adm

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West, City & East Leighton House Museum

12 D1

12 Holland Park Rd, W14 • 020 7602 3316 www.rbkc.gov.uk/LeightonHouseMuseum Open 11–5:30 Wed–Mon

This wonderfully idiosyncratic studio-house was built for the fashionable Victorian painter Frederick, Lord Leighton. Mirroring the success of his career, the house was aggrandized in the late 19th century, when its defining feature, the Arab Hall, was added. This lovely space has a pool with a tiny tinkling fountain, and walls decorated with deep turquoise tiles from Damascus. The back rooms, overlooking a pleasant garden (open Apr–Sep), are hung with paintings by the main Pre-Raphaelite players – Millais, Burne-Jones, Waterhouse – as well as Leighton’s exotic and incredibly detailed Oriental and Classical scenes. Upstairs, light pours into the studio and salon. Here, among paintings of varied success, are small landscape studies and preparatory sketches, which are some of Leighton’s most enduring works. Adm

St Bartholomew the Great

10 B2

West Smithfield, EC1 • 020 7606 5171 www.greatstbarts.com Open Tue–Sun exc during services

Your imaginative powers are called upon to fully appreciate this 12th-century Norman priory, London’s oldest parish church. Much of the nave is now an open churchyard, and the former entrance door is now a gateway leading on to Smithfield Market. But it still has a lot of atmosphere.

19 Princelet Street

a house of refuge

11 F1

Spitalfields, E1 • 020 7247 5352 www.19princeletstreet.org.uk Open occasional Sun afternoons & Refugee Week (mid-Jun); check website

Now set up as a small museum about immigration in Spitalfields, this terraced house was home to French Huguenots and, later, Jewish émigrés. Beyond the small front rooms is No. 19’s most startling secret: a creaking three-storey synagogue of 1869.

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Art & Architecture Dennis Severs’ House

time capsule

11 E1

18 Folgate Street, E1 • 020 7247 4013 www.dennissevershouse.co.uk Open Mon evenings by candlelight (booking required) & occasional afternoons

The modern world closes behind you as you enter this terraced house in Spitalfields. The late artist Dennis Severs interpreted the history of his home by furnishing its ten rooms in ways that evoke moments (more than just periods) in its past. Each room is a still life: in the front parlour, time seems to have stopped in the 1700s, with rich pies, half-eaten fruit and glasses of wine abandoned on the table. The cold and dusty attic rooms leap straight out of the early 1900s, with silk-weaving apparatus and crumbling damp ceilings. The level of detail is extraordinary. Cracked oyster shells indicate a snack just eaten; the pungent scent of oranges, cloves and lavender fills the nostrils. Clocks chime the hour, while a sly black cat ghosts about. Only by the sight of other visitors are you reminded of the present. Adm

Museum of the Order of St John

10 B1

St John’s Gate, EC1 • 020 7324 4070 www.sja.org.uk/museum Tours Tue, Fri & Sat

Be sure to catch the hour-long tour that takes you down into a hidden 12th-century crypt, then up into a Tudor gatehouse. The history of the Knights of St John is fascinating and far-reaching – the Crusades, 14thcentury Poll Tax Riots, Shakespeare, The Gentleman’s Magazine and modern first-aid volunteers all appear.

Whitechapel Gallery

contemporary art

11 F2

80–82 Whitechapel High Street, E1 • 020 7522 7878 (recorded info) • 020 7522 7888 (enquiries) www.whitechapel.org Open 11–6 Tue–Sun (to 9 Thu)

One of London’s largest galleries, the Whitechapel puts on attention-grabbing exhibitions of modern and contemporary art. The history of performance art and Gerhard Richter were among recent subjects. The slick café was designed by artist Liam Gillick.

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City & East Geffrye Museum

homes in history

5 E4

136 Kingsland Rd, E2 • 020 7739 9893 www.geffrye-museum.org.uk Open 10–5 Tue–Sat, 12–5 Sun

A row of neat little almshouses has been converted into a charming museum on the theme of English domestic interiors and gardens of the last 400 years. The Victorian rooms reach a zenith of clutter before the modern world storms in with the 1930s house. An open loft apartment represents the 1990s.

Wapping Project Space

art, industry, food

Wapping Wall, E1 • 020 7680 2080 1 Wapping www.thewappingproject.com Open noon–10:30 Mon–Sat, noon–6 Sun

At the same time that Tate Modern was reshaping Bankside Power Station, the smaller-scale Wapping Project Space was emerging from the defunct industrial space of Wapping Hydraulic Power Station. Brainchild of theatre director Jules Wright, WPS puts on lively shows of contemporary art, dance and music in a space that seems to have remained largely untouched since the time of its industrial death throes in the late 1970s. Bits of machinery stand idle, and sounds echo off concrete and metal surfaces. The space works particularly well for video projections and installations: Richard Wilson (Butterfly, 2003), Jane Prophet (Conductor, 2000) and Finnish artist Elina Brotherus (Baigneurs, 2004) have created brilliant works here. There’s an excellent restaurant too, called Wapping Food.

Victorian Cemeteries London’s great old cemeteries have a poetic equilibrium, the artistry of stonemasons jostling for space with the natural world of brambles and trees. Highgate Cemetery is where you’ll find the lumpish bust of Karl Marx. Kensal Green Cemetery is home to some fanciful Egyptian-style tombs and a chapel built to look like a Greek temple.

Brompton Cemetery is a more civilized affair, with sharp paths and avenues. Like Kensal Green, it has a Neo-Classical temple; its silhouette and golden sandstone are especially striking in the evening light. The wildest cemeteries are Abney Park (see p173) and the gothic forest of Nunhead, where angels and crucifixes seem to sprout from ivy-clad trees. For location details, see p226.

Highgate Cemetery can be visited with a guided tour; for details, check www.highgate-cemetery.org

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Art & Architecture Docklands

industrial past, commercial future

Isle of Dogs, E14 • 1 Canary Wharf Museum in Docklands: West India Quay • 0870 444 3857 www.museumindocklands.org.uk Open 10–6 daily

From the driverless trains of the DLR to the pumped-up steel and glass commercial buildings mushrooming all around, there is something exhilarating (albeit not pretty) about Docklands. A shiny new city has all but replaced the wharfs and warehouses of the old port. The Museum in Docklands, set in a beautiful brick warehouse, which once held spices, rum and cotton, tells the 2,000-year tale of London as a place of trade. That trade continues in the multinational offices at Canary Wharf, served by three interconnected shopping malls (Cabot Place, Canada Place and Jubilee Place). There are many pubs and restaurants, most of them chains. Two worth seeking out are 1802, a smart restaurant and bar next to the museum, overlooking Future Systems’ lime-green footbridge; and Conran’s stylish Plateau, on the fourth floor of Canada Place.

Estorick Collection

Futurism

4 B1

39 Canonbury Sq, N1 • 020 7704 9522 www.estorickcollection.com Open 11–6 Wed–Sat, 12–5 Sun

Tucked away on a leafy backroad, this gallery is dedicated to the Italian Futurist Movement of the early 20th century. It’s the perfect antidote to London’s gargantuan museums, a place to quietly peruse Severinis, Boccionis and also works by Modigliani and de Chirico. The House (see p49) is nearby for refreshment. Adm

Camden Arts Centre

contemporary art

Arkwright Road, NW3 • 020 7472 5500 • 1 Finchley Road www.camdenartscentre.org Open 10–6 Tue–Sun (to 9 Wed)

Newly refurbished, the arts centre continues to showcase influential artists and Britain’s best upand-coming talent. Art/architectural group MUF created the garden, which features a terrace that traces the “footprint” of two houses destroyed by a bomb during World War II.

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City, East & North Lord’s

sporting traditions, modern architecture

Wellington Road, NW8 • 1 St John’s Wood www.lords.org Tours daily (020 7616 8595 to book)

Lord’s is more than just a cricket ground: it is the home of the game, the keeper of its beguiling rules and the custodian of its traditions. You may be surprised, then, to discover that it also sports some leading-edge architecture. The stands surrounding the pitch are by Nicholas Grimshaw and Michael Hopkins – pioneers of High-Tech building design. In playful fashion, the Hopkins Stand has been designed to look rather like a temporary summer marquee. The Media Centre was built in 2000 by Future Systems. This sensuous white cocoon, created with the aid of boat manufacturers, rises dramatically from the Mound end, in contrast to the stately Victoriana of Thomas Verity’s Pavilion (1890) at the opposite end. Tours of Lord’s are conducted by cricket enthusiasts, and take in the ground’s architecture and the MCC Museum, which charts the history of cricket.

Fenton House

17th-century traditions

1 A4

Windmill Hill, NW3 • 020 7435 3471 www.national-trust.org.uk Open Apr–Oct: Sat & Sun 11–5, Wed–Fri 2–5

Set in formal gardens, this 17th-century house has displays of early keyboard instruments, fine Chinese porcelain and some precious English and Continental figurines. The Dining Room is the venue for a summer concert series of early music (some Thu May–Oct). Adm

2 Willow Road

modern living perfected

1 C4

2 Willow Road, NW3 • 020 7435 6166 www.national-trust.org.uk Apr–Oct: noon–5 Thu–Sat; Mar & Nov: noon–5 Sat

The Modernist interior of the former home of architect Ernö Goldfinger is superb: flexible living areas, picture windows and sophisticated colour schemes are defining features. Dotted about are paintings by Henry Moore, Max Ernst and Bridget Riley. Adm

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Art & Architecture Freud Museum

the doctor’s final home

20Maresfield Gardens,NW3 •020 7435 2002• 1 Finchley Road www.freud.org.uk Open noon–5 Wed–Sun

Preserved as the “Father of Psychoanalysis” left them, the library and study in Sigmund Freud’s house contain a great collection of Greek, Roman, Egyptian and Oriental antiquities. But pride of place goes to the original psychoanalytical couch, with its plumpedup cushions and richly patterned Persian rug. Adm

Kenwood House

Masters on the Heath

1 C1

Hampstead Heath, NW3 • 020 8348 1286 www.englishheritage.org.uk Open Apr–Oct 10–5 daily; Nov–Mar 10–4 daily

Architect Robert Adam’s Neo-Classical house at the top of Hampstead Heath provides a stately home for the Iveagh Bequest. The collection includes paintings by Turner, Reynolds and Gainsborough, as well as a late Rembrandt Self-Portrait and Vermeer’s Guitar Player.

Keats House

home of the young Romantic

1 C5

Keats Grove, NW3 • 020 7435 2062 www.corpoflondon.gov.uk/keats Open mid-Apr–Oct: 12–5 Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 12–4 Tue–Sun

Romantic poet John Keats lived in this genteel house in 1818–20, hoping that the good air and waters of Hampstead would alleviate his tuberculosis. Letters, possessions and manuscripts tell the tale of a sensitive writer who died young. Adm

London’s Georgian Squares The most elegant chapter of London’s expansion happened during the Georgian era (1714–1830), when homogeneous Neo-Classical streetscapes were created, often set around garden squares. Many of these squares are open to the public. Among the best are the quietish Golden Square (Map 9 E3) and thronged Soho Square (9 F2);

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Berkeley Square (8 D4) for its magnificent plane trees; St James’s Square (9 E4) for its exceptional Georgian townhouse surrounds; Bloomsbury Square (9 G2) for its jollity; and Queen’s Square (9 G1) for its tucked-away charm and enticing pubs and cafés on Cosmos Place. Many other squares to which access is normally restricted are open to all on the annual London Garden Squares Day (see p10).

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North & South Saatchi Gallery

9 H5

home of 1990s Brit art

County Hall, SE1 • Info 020 7823 2363 • Tickets 020 7928 8195 www.saatchi-gallery.co.uk Open 10–8 daily (to 10 Fri & Sat)

Saatchi’s move to County Hall has brought the gallery closer to the cultural life of the South Bank, albeit in a spot that’s surrounded by games arcades and fastfood outlets. However, the collection is impressive, focusing on contemporary British artists, such as the Chapman brothers and Tracey Emin. Adm

Jerwood Space

hot competition

10 B5

171 Union Street, SE1 • 020 7654 0171 www.jerwoodspace.co.uk Open Tue–Sun afternoons (opening times vary depending on the exhibition)

The programming at this contemporary art gallery is based on a series of annual prizes in a variety of media. Far from traditional, the work on show is cutting edge.

Hayward Gallery

avant-garde shows

9 H4

South Bank Centre, SE1 • 020 7960 5226 www.hayward.org.uk Open 10–6 daily (to 8 Tue & Wed, to 9 Fri)

Arguably London’s premier gallery for temporary exhibitions, particularly of contemporary art, the Hayward is a versatile space. It was built in the late 1960s in a Brutalist style, and in recent years the occupiers have been learning to love it again. The interior has been stripped back to the original rough concrete surface that, when empty, gives it the appearance of a multistorey car park. Brutal it may be, but it is a provoking alternative to the white-box look of many galleries. Paintings don’t necessarily look their best here, but the Hayward is an exceptional space for modern sculpture and multimedia installations. Video works such as Douglas Gordon’s 24-Hour Psycho have been highly acclaimed. The new foyer, incorporating a glass pavilion by Dan Graham, houses touch-sensitive screens playing a mix of cartoons and art videos. Adm Summer concerts are held in the grounds of Kenwood House (see p10)

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Art & Architecture Old Operating Theatre

scary surgery

10 D5

9a St Thomas’s Street, SE1 • 020 7955 4791/020 7188 2679 www.thegarret.org.uk Open 10:30–5 daily

Accessed via a Herb Garret that lulls you with the idea of quaint botanical potions, the operating theatre of 1822 comes as a shock. An oversize chopping board is set on a stage surrounded by tiered seats for students and onlookers, while in an adjacent room is a vast array of knives and amputation saws. Adm

Design Museum

modern design institute

11 F5

28 Shad Thames, SE1 • 0870 8339955 www.designmuseum.org Open 10–5:45 daily (to 9 Fri, Apr–Oct)

Temporary exhibitions take in the breadth of modern designers, from 19th-century engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel to music-industry graphic artist Peter Saville. On the top floor there is a permanent collection of mass-produced design classics – check out how many you have owned. Adm

South London Gallery

big players/new blood

65 Peckham Road, SE5 • 020 7703 6120 1 Oval, then bus 36 www.southlondongallery.org Open 12–6 Tue–Sun

This one-hall gallery stages exhibitions of contemporary artists. International names have included Sherrie Levine and Christian Boltanski; home-grown talents have included Tracey Emin and Sarah Lucas.

Independent & Commercial Galleries The most exciting galleries for up-and-coming artists are mainly in East London. There are clusters in Hoxton (see p162), including White Cube and The Agency, and near Victoria Park (Matt’s Gallery, Chisenhale, The Showroom and Wilkinson Gallery). There’s also a small gallery, The Approach, above a friendly pub of the same name. In Central London,

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on Heddon Street, are Sadie Coles HQ and Gagosian. Gagosian has also opened a space on Britannia Street at King’s Cross. There are many galleries around Cork Street, but don’t miss Stephen Friedman on neighbouring Old Burlington Street. One of the best is out on its own: the Lisson near Marylebone Station. Try www.newexhibitions.com for information. For location details, see p225.

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South

Tate Modern

power plant of modern art

10 B4

Bankside, SE1 • 020 7887 8000 www.tate.org.uk Open 10–6 Sun–Thu, 10–10 Fri & Sat

Since it opened in 2000, Tate Modern has been spectacularly popular. A large part of this success is due to the building itself: a monolithic, brown-brick power station transformed into an elegant Modernist gallery by architects Herzog & de Meuron. The vast Turbine Hall is the dramatic focus of the building, installations (each in situ for six months) have been created by artists such as Louise Bourgeois, Juan Muñoz and Olafur Eliasson. The dimensions of the hall are so great – it’s 155 m (500 ft) long by 35 m (115 ft) – that works have been increasingly theatrical in an attempt to fill the void. In Weather Project (2004), for example, Olafur Eliasson filled the hall with orange light from a giant “sun”, covered the entire ceiling with mirrors and pumped in steamy clouds. The permanent collection is relatively modest for the size of building, occupying just two of the floors. The regular rotation of pieces result in compelling

displays of work by Matisse, Rodin, Bruce Nauman and other giants of modern art. This approach may have its drawbacks, but it’s a refreshing way to view the works of art, giving the exhibition the feel of a contemporary group show rather than a place of academia. Tate Modern has an increasingly strong quota of video work, including Bill Viola’s monumental Five Angels for the Millennium and Paul McCarthy’s seminal Rocky (1976), in which the artist beats himself up and collapses into a naked heap. Amid this vastness and energy, it is good to know that small paintings can still hold their own, as exemplified by Picasso’s exquisite Girl in a Chemise (1905). The Level 4 galleries are given over to invariably brilliant temporary exhibitions, for which an entrance fee is charged. There is a moderately priced café on Level 2, offering good food and efficient, friendly service. The café on Level 7 gets extremely busy – if you want the views, visit before or after the lunchtime rush (12:30–2:30pm) and be prepared to wait.

As well as offering free guided tours daily, the Tate Modern has also introduced Palm Pilot tours

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Art & Architecture Dulwich Picture Gallery

fine paintings

Gallery Road, Dulwich Village, SE21 • 020 8693 5254 £ West Dulwich www.dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk Open 10–5 Tue–Fri, 11–5 Sat & Sun

Leafy Dulwich is home to a small and perfectly formed collection of European Old Master paintings from the 17th and 18th centuries. The gallery was purpose-built in 1811 by Sir John Soane (see p97) and is illuminated mainly by natural light entering through lantern windows – a Soane innovation that has been much copied. This creates a perfect, even light in which to compare the artistic forces of Italy, France, the Netherlands and England. The quality of the work is extremely high, as exemplified by Guido Reni’s St Sebastian: two other versions of the composition exist, one in the Prado, the other in the Louvre. There’s also a delicate little Rembrandt (Portrait of Jacob III de Gheyn), and works by Raphael, Poussin, Rubens, Hogarth and Gainsborough, including the instantly recognisable Unknown Couple in a Landscape. There are many wonderful smaller discoveries too, such as a recently restored River Landscape by Aelbert Cuyp, perfectly described as a “tiny limpid masterpiece” in the wall text. Restoration included removing a herd of cows that had been added in the 1800s. A recent overhaul of the gallery by architect Rick Mather has added a glazed cloister and a moderately priced café-restaurant. Dulwich itself centres around a pleasant park and the Crown & Greyhound pub. Adm

Queen’s House

architectural delight

16 C2

Greenwich Park, SE10 • 020 8312 6565 www.nmm.ac.uk Open 10–5 daily

Besides some fine furniture and a few paintings of note, the triumph of Queen’s House is its architecture. This is the work of Inigo Jones (1573–1652), and in details such as the Tulip spiral staircase you can see not only the Classicism that this building precipitated in Britain, but also a foreshadowing of Modernism.

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South Eltham Palace

medieval meets Art Deco

Court Yard, SE9 • 020 8294 2548 • £ Eltham www.elthampalace.org.uk Open Apr–Oct: 10–5 Sun–Wed, Nov–Mar: 10–4 Sun–Wed

Having fallen ungracefully from its status as one of Henry VIII’s hunting residences to become a humble barn in the 18th century, salvation finally came for Eltham Palace in the 1930s. By then, all that remained were the Banqueting Hall and parts of the garden, including the moat bridge. Arts patron Stephen Courtauld decided to restore the Hall and build a new, and very modern, country house around it. Designed by Seely and Paget, the 1930s house is a seductive piece of Art Deco styling, with sweeping, light-filled rooms; curving walls lined with maple, aspen and sycamore panelling; and ocean-liner style furnishings. It’s easy to envisage the sophisticated, Martini-sipping party set who would have weekended with the gregarious Courtaulds. Stories abound about Jonggy, the pet ring-tailed lemur who favoured the Flower Room when he wasn’t up in his bunk. Adm

Along the River It’s taken a while, but the Thames shows clear signs of having undergone a renaissance. Its waters are cleaner than they’ve been for several centuries, the riverbank is alive with culture (see p164) and increasing numbers of boats now ply up and down the river. The waterway is a brilliant means of traversing the city along its east-west axis: the Houses of Parliament show their most elegant side, the views of the bridges are unparalleled, and the many stop-off points are situated right outside some of London’s most attractive sights. The Art Boat (see p100) ferries up and down the river between Tate Britain (see p99) and Tate Modern (see p111) – a 15-minute trip every 40 minutes in each direction. The boat stops off at the London Eye (www.londoneye.com), too. The views from this oversize fairground wheel can be amazing, especially at

sunset (see p18). The London Eye pier is also handy for the Saatchi Gallery (see p109), London Aquarium (www.londonaquarium.co.uk) and, across Westminster Bridge, the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey and St Margaret’s Church (see p99). Boats run over longer distances: Westminster Pier or Embankment Pier to Greenwich (see p174) is a favourite (every 40–45 minutes from 10am–3:45pm; returning until 5:20pm); and Westminster Pier to Kew (see p175) and Hampton Court (11am and noon; one-and-a-half hours to Kew, three-and-a-half hours to Hampton Court, see p12). Of the river websites, www.transportforlondon. gov.uk/river gives the best information for river travel; www.riverthames.co.uk has a lively overview of the entire river and associated events, including boat races; while www.citycruises.com is a company offering historical tours.

You can walk all the way along the south bank of the Thames between Waterloo and Tower Bridge

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performance London’s theatres in the West End and on the South Bank are world famous, but cutting-edge drama is increasingly found further afield, in places such as the Tricycle in Kilburn and the Almeida, Islington. The city’s musical stage stretches from the cupboard-sized 12 Bar Club to the majestic Royal Opera House. A lively comedy circuit is found in a host of pubs and clubs, while cinemas dotted around the city compete for coolness.

TOP CHOICES –

performance

CLASSICAL VENUES

DANCE

CUTTING-EDGE THEATRE

Wigmore Hall

Sadler’s Wells

Tricycle

36 Wigmore Street, W1

Rosebery Avenue, EC1

269 Kilburn High Road, NW6

The fine acoustics of the Wigmore Hall’s beautiful auditorium make it an outstanding venue for classical music. (See p122)

The Wells is an attractive venue for performances by the big names of modern dance, such as Michael Clark and Ballet Rambert. (See p126)

Political and satirical plays are given an airing at the Tricycle, a theatre that dares to experiment with our expectations of drama. (See p129)

St John’s Smith Square

The Place

Smith Square, SW1

17 Duke’s Road, WC1

An 18th-century church arena is the pre-eminent venue for performances of Early Music. The lunchtime concerts are a bargain. (See p122)

Experimental dance is showcased at the Robin Howard Dance Theatre, which is part of this centre for dance education. (See p122)

The Tricycle also has a vibrant cafébar, an adjoining repertory cinema and an art gallery, making the journey to Kilburn well worth the trek.

Purcell Room/Queen Elizabeth Hall

Laban Centre

Belvedere Road, SE1

Two performance spaces for avant-garde dance are set in a state-of-the-art building.

There’s no need to dress up for these concert halls. There are two superb resident orchestras. (See p129)

Royal Opera House Bow Street, WC2

London’s most lavish setting for operatic productions and performances by the Royal Ballet has a high-class atmosphere. (See p118)

Creekside, SE8

(See p130)

The Clore Studio at the Royal Opera House is an additional space for experimental contemporary dance.

Donmar Warehouse 41 Earlham Street, WC2

A mixture of cerebral drama and big-name actors has been key to the success of the Donmar. It’s an intense, intimate space. (See p118)

National Theatre South Bank, SE1

Of the National’s three auditoria, the Cottesloe studio is the most versatile space for small-scale, experimental productions. (See p129)

Almeida Almeida Street, N1

A beguilingly light and airy foyer-café leads onto a brooding auditorium where brilliant, nerve-jangling drama is the norm. (See p126)

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TOP CHOICES – GIG VENUES

JAZZ & BLUES

performance COMEDY

Borderline

606 Club

Hackney Empire

Orange Yard, Manette Street, WC2

90 Lots Road, SW10

Mare Street, E8

Enjoy the sweaty fun as new bands thrash out their songs. US bands often get their first UK footing here too. (See p119)

This stalwart of the British jazz scene is set in a basement in Chelsea. Book a table. (See p123)

Long-established as a venue for comedy, the Empire attracts wellknown comics such as Paul Merton, Jenny Eclair and Bill Bailey. (See p125)

Shepherd’s Bush Empire

Comedy Store

Shepherd’s Bush Green, W12

1a Oxendon Street, SW1

This mid-scale hall with an excellent sound system is especially suited to gigs by solo artists. (See p123)

At this legendary club, energetic stand-up comedy is performed to an audience that takes no prisoners. (See p121)

12 Bar Club

Ronnie Scott’s

Comedy Café

22–3 Denmark Street, WC2

47 Frith Street, W1

66–8 Rivington Street, EC2

Tiny it may be, but on a good night this venue, set among the music shops of “Tin Pan Alley”, has an electric atmosphere. (See p119)

London’s best-loved jazz venue. Stick around for the late-night sessions, when musicians pull out all the stops.

Situated in one of the liveliest parts of town, the Comedy Café provides drinks, snacks and laughs by the bucket-load. (See p125)

(See p121)

The pub circuit is a big part of the music scene for hard-working bands trying to make their mark. Check out the Hope & Anchor on Upper Street, Islington – a bar with great rock heritage.

Jazz Café 5 Parkway, NW1

The Jazz Café provides a broad mix of jazz-influenced music – everything from funky Roy Ayers to lyrical rapper Q-Tip. (See p127)

Tickets can be booked online for many London music venues

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Performance Royal Opera House

ballet & opera

9 G3

Bow Street, Covent Garden, WC2 • 020 7304 4000 www.royaloperahouse.org Tours: three daily at 10:30, 12:30 and 2:30

Shared by the Royal Ballet and Royal Opera, the Opera House is a magnificent theatre, the tiers of its auditorium rising to precipitous heights, topped off with a richly decorated ceiling. The ballet programme offers classical pieces with a few modern works. Swan Lake, The Dream and The Rite of Spring were 2005 productions. In the same year, operatic performances included Rigaletto, Die Walküre and La Bohème. Tickets range from under £5 (restricted view bench seats up in the gods) to more than £150. On Mondays, some seats are offered at huge discounts. The Linbury Studio is a modest alternative for experimental dance and small ensemble concerts. On Mondays, free lunchtime recitals are held here or in the Crush Room, one of the Opera House’s many spaces for eating, drinking and socializing.

Poetry Café

hub of poetry life in London

9 G3

22 Betterton Street, WC2 • 020 7420 9888 www.poetrysociety.org.uk Open 11–11 Mon–Fri, 6:30–11 Sat

This is a good café in its own right, the fare ranging from Marmite on toast and a cup of tea to decent wine. It’s also the venue for readings, poetry and jazz nights, open-mike slots and poetry slams. Come here to find out about the more itinerant poetry events around town, too.

Donmar Warehouse

innovative theatre

9 F3

41 Earlham St, WC2 • 0870 0606624 www.donmarwarehouse.com

Now under the directorship of Michael Grandage, the Donmar continues the success it achieved under Sam Mendes, who persuaded Nicole Kidman and other stars to perform on stage here. Productions have included Jonathan Kent’s Hecuba and Grand Hotel, directed by Michael Grandage.

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Centre 12 Bar Club

live gigs in a tiny room

9 F2

22–3 Denmark Street, WC2 • 020 7916 6989 www.12barclub.com Club open from 8pm daily

Hosting several acts each night in an upstairs room accessed via a tight alley, the 12 Bar is a great place to hear the ballads of an accomplished singersongwriter. That said, it also puts on a frenetic London Callin’ night (last Sat of the month), which draws on the capital’s punk and ska heritage.

Arts Theatre

popular & offbeat drama

9 F3

Great Newport Street, WC2 • 020 7836 3334 www.artstheatre.com

Following a varied life over the last few decades, the Arts Theatre is trying to regain its touch for cuttingedge drama – a reputation it had in the days when it premiered Samuel Beckett’s English-language version of Waiting For Godot. Tynan, a RSC production based on the diaries of Kenneth Tynan, was a more recent hit.

ENO @ The Coliseum

opera in English

9 G4

St Martin’s Lane, WC2 • 020 7632 8300 www.eno.org

Now back in its superbly revamped building, the English National Opera continues with its mission to present opera in the English tongue. To further popularize the art form, 500 seats are available for just £10 on weekdays. There are great views across Trafalgar Square from the public area on the top floor.

Borderline

tomorrow’s rock stars today

9 F3

Orange Yard, Manette Street • 020 7434 9592 www.borderline.co.uk

A small venue (capacity under 300) with a big reputation – bands such as REM, Oasis, Blur and Pulp have played at this hot and sweaty little club. More than this, though, it’s a place for new bands to break through and for stalwarts of the US circuit to find a British audience. Check www.applesandsnakes.org for poetry events

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Performance Mean Fiddler

small venue, great sound

9 F3

168 Charing Cross Road, WC2 • 020 7434 9592 www.meanfiddler.com

The Mean Fiddler puts on fewer gigs and more obscure names than the famous Astoria next door, but the proximity of musicians and audience, and the quality of the sound system ensure that it’s an ideal place to catch up-and-coming bands. “Rock” is the capital’s premier rock night held every Fri 11–3:30.

Soho Theatre

literary haunt

9 F3

21 Dean Street, W1 • 020 7478 0100 www.sohotheatre.com

Not only a theatre but also a scriptwriting centre, this modern venue in the heart of Soho takes plenty of risks with new writers. Expect the work to be fresh, enthusiastic and maybe rough around the edges. It’s also a comedy venue, with leading circuit regulars Ricky Gervais and Kiki and Herb gracing the stage.

Curzon Soho

art-house cinema

9 F3

99 Shaftesbury Ave, W1 • 020 7734 2255 www.curzoncinemas.com

The Curzon screens the best international releases and special features, such as seasons of Eastern European films or short art films. Few other cinemas would screen Eduardo Paolozzi’s 14-minute History of Nothing. Sunday is repertory day, offering such classics as Alphaville or Rear Window.

Buying Tickets for West End Shows As a general rule, the cheapest tickets are sold at theatre box offices. If a show is sold out, you might be able to buy returns just before a performance. More expensive seats will usually be available through a STAR-regulated ticket agent. London has just one official discounted tickets booth, in the middle of Leicester Square, offering tickets on the

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day of the performance (open 10–7 Mon–Sat, 12–3:30 Sun). For further information: www.official londontheatre.co.uk has play summaries and tickets (it’s linked with a pamphlet available at most theatres); www.thisistheatre.com provides details about performances and the history of venues; www.londontheatre.co.uk has seating plans and links to booking agencies.

www.elondon.dk.com

Centre Ronnie Scott’s

9 F3

jazz stalwart

47 Frith Street, W1 • 020 7439 0747 www.ronniescotts.co.uk Open 8:30pm–3am Mon–Sat (music starts 9:30), Sun 7:30–11

Some of the big jazz names from the US may now favour larger venues such as the Festival Hall or the Barbican, but you can’t beat the intensity of being just a few feet away from a group of musicians when they hit a groove or start pushing their skills to the limits. On a good night, Ronnie Scott’s offers just such an experience and thereby hangs on to its reputation as the best jazz club in London. There are two music sessions most nights. Food is served during the first. In the late-night session, with the audience’s hunger sated, attention can focus more fully on the music. In turn, the musicians often produce their best performances after midnight. Upstairs is a dance venue, where DJs spin AfroCuban rhythms as the soundtrack for salsa, or 70s and 80s funk and soul for the Big City Groove nights.

Prince Charles Cinema

cosy film house

9 F3

7 Leicester Place, W1 • 020 7494 3654 • 0901 2727007 www.princecharlescinema.com

A cineaste’s dream, this cinema is like a private viewing room, with sensual red plush seats designed for chilling out. It’s a cinema with eclectic programming, showing an array of cult and world cinema, with regular seasonal film festivals and events. The glitzy bar and kiosk serve drinks, snacks and savouries.

Comedy Store

radical club comes of age

9 F4

1a Oxendon St, SW1 • 0870 060 2340 www.thecomedystore.co.uk

The Store opened in 1979 as a punkish riposte to the gag-merchants who then dominated Britain’s comedy landscape, and it helped to create a new genre of freewheeling stand-up. It’s a more conventional venue these days, but something of that initial spirit persists with the Sunday and Wednesday improv nights. A booking fee is normally charged if you book theatre or concert tickets through online agencies

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Performance The Place

3 F5

thrilling moves

17 Duke’s Road, WC1 • 020 7387 0031 www.theplace.org.uk

The Place is home to the London Contemporary Dance School and the Richard Alston Dance Company. The primary stage is the Robin Howard Dance Theatre, where you can see the work of recent graduates as well as that of established choreographers and companies from around the world.

St John’s

chamber music

15 G2

Smith Square, SW1 • 020 7222 1061 www.sjss.org.uk

An elegant Baroque church of 1728 provides a beautiful setting for its schedule of classical music, as well as an acoustically excellent one. The Academy of Ancient Music and the London Chamber Orchestra perform regularly, and there’s a very reasonable Thursday lunchtime concert series (tickets £5).

Wigmore Hall

supreme classical venue

8 C2

36 Wigmore St, W1 • 020 7935 2141 www.wigmore-hall.org.uk

World-renowned for recitals, Wigmore Hall should be the first destination for lovers of classical and early music. The concert hall was built in 1901, its architect Thomas Collcutt making extensive use of marble and alabaster for the walls and flooring, which greatly contributes to the room’s harmonics. The fine quality of resonance has attracted some of the world’s most acclaimed musicians and composers over the decades, including Saint-Saëns, Prokofiev, Francis Poulenc, Benjamin Britten and Jacqueline du Pré. Major artists continue to be drawn here; recent performers have included the Hilliard Ensemble, Angela Hewitt and Joanna Macgregor. The Wigmore also attracts a very loyal audience, especially appreciative of the hall’s intimacy. In addition to daily evening performances, there are Monday lunchtime recitals and coffee concerts on Sundays (see p13).

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Buy tickets online at

www.elondon.dk.com

Centre & West Electric Cinema

plush film house

6 D3

191 Portobello Rd, W11 • 020 7908 9696 www.the-electric.co.uk

A beautifully renovated, single-screen cinema, with the most comfortable audience seating in London. You can put your feet up on footstools, sit back in a wide leather chair, and casually reach across to your drink on a side table. This is Club-Class cinema-going, with a bar for wine, beer and snacks at the back (which closes 5 minutes before films begin) and twoseater sofas on which the romantically inclined can snuggle up. The programming is excellent too, with choice films from around the world, as well as the best of Hollywood’s auteurs. On Sunday afternoons, the cinema screens low-priced double-bill features. Another string to the Electric’s bow is its next-door brasserie, which is open from 8am for breakfasts, then rolls on throughout the day and evening, serving up perfect brasserie food, from club sandwiches and whitebait to lamb chops and char-grilled fish.

606 Club

jazz with food and drink

13 G5

90 Lots Rd, SW10 • 020 7352 5953 www.606club.co.uk Open nightly

Geared towards the British jazz scene (and, yes, there is one), this cosy basement bar-restaurant club – with brick walls, café furniture and low lighting – is open to non-members if you book for a meal. This is the only way to get a drink as well, and a fee is added to the bill for the music.

Shepherd’s Bush Empire

hot gigs

6 A5

Shepherd’s Bush Green, W12 • 020 8354 3300 www.shepherds-bush-empire.co.uk

This one-time TV theatre is much loved by musicians requiring acoustic subtlety. Celebrated artists such as Nancy Sinatra, Nitin Sawhney and Van Morrison and the Wailers have played here in 2005 to critical acclaim. There are usually three or four live shows most weeks. The BBC Proms concert series is one of the world’s largest classical music festivals (see p11)

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Performance Riverside Studios

arts innovation

12 A4

Crisp Road, W6 • 020 8237 1111 www.riversidestudios.co.uk

Riverside Studios is a small arts centre with great scope and ambition. A repertory cinema offers nightly double bills of world movies, while two performance spaces serve up a wide array of international fare, from Colombian dance to Iranian theatre. The cafébar has a pleasant terrace overlooking the Thames.

Barbican

cultural gathering place

10 C1

Silk Street, EC2 • 0845 120 7550 www.barbican.org.uk

A major arts centre to rival the South Bank (see p129), the Barbican was hewn from Brutalist concrete in a radical piece of urban planning. Beyond breezy walkways and concourses overlooked by apartments, the interior public spaces are open and welcoming. There’s an excellent concert hall, a distinctly loungy cinema (independent, art house and repertory), a theatre and an experimental drama space, the Pit. The concert hall is home to the accomplished London Symphony Orchestra and also hosts contemporary classical music, rock gigs and jazz – recent artists have included Ornette Coleman Quartet, Papa Wemba and Herbie Hancock Residency. The Barbican Theatre stages a mix of drama and dance. The Black Rider – a collaboration by author William Burroughs, musician Tom Waits and director Robert Wilson – premiered here in 2004, starring Marianne Faithfull.

The Spitz

live bands

11 F1

109 Commercial Street, E1 • 020 7392 9032 www.spitz.co.uk Open 11am–midnight Mon–Sat (to 1 Thu, Fri & Sat), 10am–10:30pm Sun

An arty bar and music venue in an increasingly lively part of town, The Spitz is set in a room above Spitalfields Market (see p161). Relax to some rootsy sounds or submit to an acoustic onslaught from some avant-garde electro wizard of the knobs and dials.

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www.elondon.dk.com

West, City & East Hackney Empire

restored theatrical gem

5 H1

Mare Street, E8 • 020 8985 2424 www.hackneyempire.co.uk

Having undergone a massive £15 million refurbishment, the Hackney Empire is back in business. The interior, designed by music hall architect Frank Matcham in 1901, is a superb piece of Victorian showmanship. A multicultural hodge-podge of influences from India, Italy and the Middle East is rendered into tiers that subtly reflect the social hierarchy of the time: plenty of curvy ornamentation for the rich; a lick of paint and a side entrance for the poorer patrons. The fanciful setting makes any night out here feel special, but the programme of events deserves equal praise for its mission to bring every kind of entertainment to a downtrodden part of town. Comedy, which was the strongest element pre-refurb, now vies with opera, jazz, classical, cabaret, drama and dance. A few international acts feature among local and national companies.

Comedy Café

food, drinks and laughter

5 E5

66–8 Rivington Street, EC2 • 020 7739 5706 www.comedycafe.co.uk Open from 7:30pm Wed–Sat

One of London’s best places for stand-up. There’s usually a couple of established acts such as Nick Revell, Julia Morris or Milton Jones in the line-up. The club’s rather American in feel, with orderly table seating, pitchers of beer and burgers rather than pints and packets of crisps. Wednesday is open-mike spot.

Ocean

superb live venue

5 H1

270 Mare St, E8 • 020 8533 0111 www.ocean.org.uk Bar open 10am–late daily (from 6pm Sun)

One of London’s newest and best live music clubs, Ocean offers a state-of-the-art sound system and various spaces (medium, small and tiny) for gigs. One night you might witness the antics of Lee Scratch Perry, the next it might be 1980s throwbacks Level 42. There’s a separate DJ-bar (Aqua) at street level.

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Performance Walthamstow Dog Track

fast canines

Chingford Road, E4 • 020 8498 3300 • 1 Walthamstow Central, then bus 97, 357, 215 or W11 www.wsgreyhound.co.uk Racing on Tue, Thu & Sat; lunchtimes Mon & Fri

Winner of Racecourse of the Year 2004, even celebrities such as Brad Pitt & Claudia Schiffer place a bet here. Enjoy the comfort of the Paddock Grill or mix with the commoners in the Popular Enclosure. (See also p16.)

Sadler’s Wells

vibrant dance theatre

4 A4

Rosebery Avenue, EC1 • 0870 737 7737 www.sadlers-wells.com

A superb modern theatre, Sadler’s Wells is primarily a dance venue, though it does feature opera as well. Choreographer/dancer Michael Clark produced two acclaimed works in 2003 and 2004, and the venue has also showcased Argentinian tango, the Rambert Dance Company and the Dance Theatre of Harlem.

Scala

live bands, club nights and more

3 H4

275 Pentonville Road, N1 • 020 7833 2022 www.scala-london.co.uk

The Scala positions itself as an alternative venue, putting on a mix of live acts (indie, world music and unsigned bands), as well as a staple of adventurous club nights. The Scala’s events often have more than one focus on a given night, so live bands may well share the spotlight with DJs and film screenings.

Almeida

pioneering theatre

4 B2

Almeida Street, off Upper St, N1 • 020 7359 4404 www.almeida.co.uk

The Almeida had a revamp in 2002, acquiring Michael Attenborough as creative director along with a smart new foyer and café-bar. Attenborough’s tenure has overseen the hugely acclaimed Festen and world premiere of Sebastian Barry’s Whistling Psyche. The auditorium is a stark, serious and resonant space.

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www.elondon.dk.com

City, East & North King’s Head Theatre Bar

pub-theatre

4 B2

115 Upper Street, N1 • 020 7226 8561 www.kingsheadtheatre.org

A good pub on Islington’s Upper Street has the added attraction of a tiny little theatre out the back. You can order a pre-theatre dinner as well, for a full evening’s entertainment. Performances range from newly penned works to well-worn classics. Many stars have played here, including Ben Kingsley and Alan Rickman.

Union Chapel

atmospheric gigs

4 B1

Compton Avenue, N1 • Info 020 7226 1686; tickets from Reckless Records on Upper St or at www.wegottickets.com www.unionchapel.org.uk

The Union Chapel, a working Congregational church, is a wonderfully Gothic setting for live gigs. Sit beneath its dramatic arches and soak up the atmosphere with Hungarian folk groups or creative pop musicians such as Björk. It also hosts occasional comedy nights.

Jazz Café

showcase for musical innovators

2 D3

5 Parkway, NW1 • 020 7916 6060 www.jazzcafe.co.uk Open 7pm–1am Mon–Thu, 7pm–2am Fri & Sat, 12–4pm (jam session) & 7pm–midnight Sun

Not only jazz, but also soul, funk, world, latin, R&B and hip-hop are performed here, so the Jazz Café’s remit is broad indeed. What the performers tend to share is musical inventiveness. So, if it’s a hip-hop night, you’re less likely to see a mainstream artist such as Jäy–Z than you are to witness the lyrical flow of QTip or the psychedelic ramblings of The Pharcyde. As popular with performers as it is with regulars, the Jazz Café welcomes back time and again the big names of the jazz/funk/soul world, such as Gil Scott Heron and Roy Ayers (who’s practically made the place his second home). In terms of creature comforts, the Jazz Café on the balcony offers European cuisine, while the downstairs bar, located in the livelier, dancier area right in front of the stage, does a brisk trade in beers and cocktails. The Almeida Restaurant, opposite the theatre, has moderately priced modern European cuisine

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Performance Jongleurs

2 D2

comedy in comfort

Middle Yard, Chalk Farm Road, NW1 • 0870 787 0707 www.jongleurs.com

The Jongleurs empire started in Battersea just over 20 years ago. Battersea and Camden have both been revamped but Camden is the smartest operation, rolling out a mix of decent fast food, jugs of beer and laughs aplenty. Established comics – such as Sean Meo, Adam Hills and Gina Yashere – are regulars.

Hampstead Theatre

fresh new plays

Eton Avenue, NW3 • 020 7722 9301 • 1 Swiss Cottage www.hampsteadtheatre.com

Ensconced in a brand new light and airy home, the Hampstead Theatre now has a larger auditorium, with about 300 seats, and an extra studio space for its most experimental work. Its ethos, however, remains unchanged, and so it will continue to develop and promote new writing and young actors.

Everyman

1 A5

superior cinema

5 Holly Bush Vale, NW3 • 0870 066 4777 www.everymancinema.com

This is cinema-going at its most sophisticated. The auditorium has an upper balcony of leather seats and cushions, plenty of leg room and excellent sight lines – so no having to stare at the silhouette of someone’s coiffured hair instead of the action on screen. Indeed, the Everyman has the feel of a private club, with two comfortable lounges and a bar offering a good selection of whiskies, beers and wines, and a little tapas menu, in addition to the two screening rooms. You could easily idle away an afternoon or evening here without even seeing a film, instead playing rounds of backgammon, chess, jenga or mikado – a selection of games available from the reception desk. However, it would be a shame to forego the pleasures of an excellent cinema programme, which takes the pick of new films and a second look at recent releases, and also offers classics and themed seasons.

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To find venues accessible to disabled people, check

www.elondon.dk.com

North & South Tricycle

experimental drama

269 Kilburn High Rd, NW6 • 020 7328 1000 • 1 Kilburn www.tricycle.co.uk

Comprising a theatre, cinema, gallery and café-bar, the Tricycle is best known for its political and sometimes satirical plays. Musapha Matura’s Playboy of the West Indies and Irish comedy Stones in His Pockets are among the productions that had their first London runs at the Tricycle.

9 H4

National Theatre

South Bank, SE1 • 020 7452 3400; bookings 020 7452 3000 www.nationaltheatre.org.uk

Behind foyer areas arranged on several levels are three auditoria: the fan-shaped Olivier Theatre; the smaller Lyttelton; and the Cottesloe, an experimental studio space. The programme accommodates classical and popular theatre – from big productions to experimental drama – and spectacular musicals.

South Bank Centre

music, music, music

9 H4

Belvedere Road & South Bank, SE1 • 0870 3800400 www.rfh.org.uk

The South Bank Centre comprises three contrasting music venues: the Festival Hall for symphonies, the Queen Elizabeth Hall for chamber music and the Purcell Room, which specializes in solo and small ensemble performances. Rock/pop and jazz events are also hosted, including the annual Meltdown Festival each June/July. Two symphony orchestras are resident: the world-renowned Philharmonia and the highly praised London Philharmonic. The smaller London Sinfonietta also plays regularly. The South Bank Centre is superb at putting on free entertainment too, most events taking place in the foyer/bar area and ballroom of the Festival Hall. The Commuter Jazz series is a regular Friday slot from 5pm. In summer 2005, the Festival Hall started the next stage of its renovation, which will affect parts of the building until Jan 2007. (See also p164.) For listings of London’s many comedy venues, see www.comedyonline.co.uk

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Performance National Film Theatre

movies galore

9 H4

South Bank, SE1 • 020 7928 3232 www.bfi.org.uk

This repertory cinema excels in themed seasons – some populist (Audrey Hepburn), others more for arthouse aficionados (early Buñuel and Cocteau shorts). It’s the main venue for the London Film Festival too (see p11). Three screens provide serene conditions for film-viewing: no rustling sweet papers here.

Old Vic

theatrical transatlantic crossover

10 A5

The Cut, SE1 • Box office 0870 0606628 www.oldvictheatre.com

Built in 1818, the Old Vic is one of London’s oldest theatres still in use and can list Laurence Olivier, John Gielgud, Vivien Leigh and Alec Guinness among its thespian credentials. With Kevin Spacey now at the helm as artistic director, the ambition is to transfer successful productions from here to Broadway.

Shakespeare’s Globe

Tudor revival

10 C4

Bankside, SE1 • 020 7401 9919 www.shakespeares-globe.org Theatre season: May–Sep

Recreating the ambience of Shakespearean theatre, the Globe is largely roofless, hence the summer-only season of the Bard’s plays. There’s bench seating in the middle and upper galleries; otherwise you have to stand, and will be encouraged to chip in with earthy comments rather than just polite applause.

Laban

dance for the 21st century

16 A3

Creekside, SE8 • Box office 020 8469 9500 www.laban.org

Housed in a prestigious building by Herzog & de Meuron (architects of Tate Modern), Laban is a centre for dance education and performance. Two venues, the Bonnie Bird and Studio theatres, offer contemporary dance and physical theatre, sometimes mixed with electronic media, such as video projections.

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www.elondon.dk.com

South Ritzy

Brixton’s picture palace

Coldharbour Lane, SW2 • 020 7733 2229 • 1 Brixton www.picturehouses.co.uk

Hugely popular with Brixtonians, the Ritzy is as much a place to meet up and hang out as a cinema per se; its upstairs café-bar is great for lounging to easygoing tracks laid down by the DJs. But with five screens, the Ritzy also has a diverse programme, mixing popular new releases with highlights from world cinema.

Battersea Arts Centre

in the studio

Lavender Hill, SW11 • 020 7223 2223 • £ Clapham Junction www.bac.org.uk

A centre for experimental performance, BAC likes to emphasize the merits of collaboration and interdisciplinary productions. With several studio spaces, a main theatre and a café-bar that’s an occasional venue for poetry events, BAC ensures that there’s never a dull moment in leafy southwest London.

Rivoli Ballroom

a swirling time warp

350 Brockley Rd, SE4 • 020 8692 5130 £ Crofton Park (from Blackfriars)

This wonderful Edwardian dance hall has an arched ceiling, chandeliers and old-fashioned side-room bars. It has hosted the faux sophistication of Club Montepulciano (nights of crooning cabaret acts and light gambling), as well as salsa evenings, tea dancing, ballroom dancing, jive nights and trad jazz.

Tickets for Sporting Events If you want to see the big football clubs, such as Arsenal and Chelsea, try official club websites first, then agencies such as www.footballtickets.eu.com or www.frontrowpromotions.com. Individuals post tickets for sale on www.thegumtree.com. You can also use web agencies for international rugby matches played at Twickenham (www.rfu.com).

London has two major cricket grounds: the Oval and Lord’s (see p107). Getting tickets for international Tests usually requires booking a month in advance or handing over vast sums (£200 or more) to an agency such as www.londonticketshop.co.uk. To catch the tennis action at Wimbledon, you need to queue in the morning or pay the exorbitant prices commanded by agencies for Centre Court matches.

The NFT hosts regular lectures and interviews with directors – call for details

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pubs, bars & clubs Pubs remain the city’s main drinking institutions, but swish cocktail lounges and funky DJ bars are stealing more and more of the limelight. Meanwhile, the dance scene maintains a blistering pace, its focus now moving from megaclubs such as Ministry of Sound to more esoteric venues such as 93 Feet East and Herbal in Shoreditch. From creaking old taverns to style bars, London’s got it covered.

TOP CHOICES –

pubs, bars & clubs

DJ BARS

GAY BARS & CLUBS

A QUIET PINT

Cherry Jam

Heaven

58 Porchester Road, W2

Under the Arches, Villiers Street, WC2

Check out Cherry Jam’s regular Friday night event, Outernational, for “indigenous grooves” from Latin America and Africa. (See p141)

It’s been going a long time and there’s no reason to stop now – Heaven offers Saturday night’s most full-on party. (See p136)

The Social

Vauxhall Tavern

5 Little Portland Street, W1

372 Kennington Lane, SE11

A relaxed upstairs lounge bar contrasts with the basement, where DJs keep upping the beats-perminute count. (See p140)

A pub that’s been turned into a weekend cabaret venue for high-camp Saturdays and lazy Sundays. (See p153)

Loungelover

Fridge

The Lamb

1 Whitby Street, E1

1 Town Hall Parade, SW2

94 Lamb’s Conduit Street, WC1

Stretching expectations of what constitutes a DJ bar, Loungelover embraces opulence, with overblown decor and fancy cocktails. (See p149)

The regular gay night is Fusion on the 2nd and 4th Fridays of the month; Orange makes an occasional Sunday appearance. (See p153)

Though often busy with local university and hospital staff in the evenings, this welcoming pub is a relaxed place for an afternoon pint. (See p141)

Vibe Bar

Trade at Turnmills

Pride of Spitalfields

Old Truman Brewery, 91–5 Brick Lane, E1

63b Clerkenwell Road, EC1

3 Heneage Street, E1

In this former East End brewery, DJs seek out anything that might have a niche audience: from 80s fetish pop to “acid fried beats”. (See p148)

Itinerant club night Trade is an irregular feature at Turnmills for late-night, early-hours hedonism. (See p146)

The kind of traditional local pub where you can sit undisturbed at the bar, absorbing the surrounding conversations and banter. (See p148)

Weekday afternoons are a good time to visit some of the old pubs in The City, such as the Lamb Tavern in Leadenhall Market (Map 10 D3).

The Crown 116 Cloudesley Road, N1

Tranquillity is the watchword at this Islington pub, set on a quiet road, with a relaxing interior, friendly staff, and great beers and food. (See p151)

Browse www.gaytoz.com and www.aromadome.com for full listings and information about gay bars, venues and club nights.

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Greenwich Union 56 Royal Hill, SE10

The Union’s back garden is a serene spot to enjoy one or more of the Meantime Brewery’s chocolate or fruit-based beers. (See p155)

Keep track of the latest on the London club scene at

www.elondon.dk.com

TOP CHOICES – HISTORIC PUBS

pubs, bars & clubs

THE COCKTAIL HOUR

TOP CLUBBING

Trafalgar Tavern

Lobby Bar

Herbal

Park Row, SE10

1 Aldwych, WC2

10–14 Kingsland Road, E2

Charles Dickens, Dr Johnson and many politicians of the 19th century were lured by the famous whitebait suppers at this inn. (See pp155 & 174)

The capacious interior of the Lobby Bar is sleekly furnished and very upmarket. Drinks are expertly mixed and served without fuss. (See p136)

No fancy interior here – just a great sound system and a cast of DJs who search out the best in funky house, jungle and eastern breaks. (See p147)

The Lamb & Flag

Blue Bar

93 Feet East

33 Rose Street, WC2

Berkeley Hotel, Wilton Place, SW1

150 Brick Lane, E1

One of the oldest public houses in central London, The Lamb was a venue for bare-knuckle boxing in the 17th century. (See p137)

Polished cocktails and fine malts are served at this cool and elegant Wedgwood-blue bar. (See p142)

This multi-space club and bar, with a courtyard for summer evenings, is the place to seek out new developments in musical styles. (See p148)

Black Friar

Fabric

174 Queen Victoria Street, EC4

77a Charterhouse Street, EC1

The name and site recall a Dominican monastery, but the interior is more of an Art Nouveau curiosity. (See p144)

One of London’s biggest clubs, Fabric pushes its musical direction into all dance music territories, from hip-hop to elecro-beats to nu jazz. (See p145)

French House

Trailer H

49 Dean Street, W1

177 Portobello Road, W11

The French connection was established in World War II, when the bar served as an “office” for De Gaulle’s government in exile. (See p139)

Strong, fruity cocktails are the hallmark of Trailer H, more a place for fun and high times than for reserve and sophistication. (See p143)

The best website for information and an honest assessment of London pubs is www.fancyapint.com.

Most pubs close at 11pm (10:30pm on Sundays)

For an accessible weekly round-up of clubbing in London, check out DJ Lottie’s previews in the Metro Life supplement of The Standard newspaper on Thursdays.

Notting Hill Arts Club 21 Notting Hill Gate

A club for the indie/dance crossover. Come for arty bands, DJ nights and the punk reverie of Death Disco. (See p144)

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Pubs, Bars & Clubs Lobby Bar

sophisticated cocktails

9 H3

1 Aldwych, WC2 • 020 7300 1000 www.onealdwych.com Open 8am–11:30pm (8am–11pm Sun)

Located within the high-ceilinged lobby of a contemporary luxury hotel is this ultra-stylish cocktail bar. Sofas and high-backed chairs are arranged around an oversized wooden boatman. Uniformed staff mix magnificent Martinis, Bellinis and Collins, and deliver superior satay and sushi to a well-heeled clientele.

Heaven

gay nirvana

9 G4

Under the Arches, Villiers Street, WC2 • 020 7930 2020 www.heaven-london.com Open from 10pm Mon, Wed & Sat

Set deep in the vaults of a railway bridge, Heaven is a gay clubbing institution. The regular slots are a dress-up-and-play Popcorn night on Mondays; Fruit Machine on Wednesdays (house, R&B and “pure pop”); and the full-on Saturday party night. Men and women, gays and straights – all are welcome.

Gordon’s Wine Bar

atmospheric cellar

9 G4

47 Villiers Street, WC2 • 020 7930 1408 Open 11am–11pm (noon–10:30pm Sun)

Tatty, candlelit and clandestinely romantic, Gordon’s is an old favourite with Londoners. You’ll rarely find a free table in this dusty former wine cellar between Charing Cross and Embankment stations, but the ambience makes up for the lack of comfort. With all the vintage publicity posters, smoky alcoves and rickety furniture, it feels like a relic from the 1940s. A small bar dispenses an excellent range of reasonably priced wines, plus port, Madeira and a few sherries (there are no beers or spirits). Most customers part with £10 for a bottle of acceptable house red, but there’s enough choice higher up the price scale to attract the connoisseur. A separate food counter offers a selection of cheeses and salads. The basement gives access to a row of terrace tables along Watergate Walk, a spot that’s always busy on summer evenings.

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Centre The American Bar

Art Deco relic

9 G4

Savoy Hotel, Strand, WC2 • 020 7836 4343 www.the-savoy.co.uk Open 2pm–1:30am Mon–Sat

A pioneering cocktail bar from the early 20th century. Authentic Art Deco details and the bar’s classy location on the first floor of the Savoy Hotel have helped to attract decades of celebrity custom. It first gained global renown during American Prohibition, when wealthy folk from across the Atlantic demanded a higher standard of drink than was common in London at the time. Britain’s first Martini was mixed here, and an entire Savoy cocktail book was compiled in 1930. Its most successful era was after World War II, when head bartender Peter Dorelli would concoct cocktail masterpieces. Ernest Hemingway and Ira Gershwin were among the rich and famous patrons. Today’s drinks list is extensive, if within traditional limitations, and pricey – all cocktails are £9 or more. There’s also a selection of malt whiskies. Smart dress (including jacket and tie) is required.

Atlantic Bar & Grill

cocktail bar

9 E4

20 Glasshouse Street, W1 • 020 7734 4888 www.atlanticbarandgrill.com Open noon–3am Mon–Sat. DJs at weekends

All mirrors and pillars, the Atlantic occupies the Art Deco ballroom of the former Regent Palace Hotel. Mixing master Dick Bradsell created the splendid cocktail list; he is honoured with a smaller bar in his name next door.

Lamb & Flag

historic public house

9 G3

33 Rose Street, WC2 • 020 7497 9504 Open 11am–11pm (noon–10:30pm Sun)

In the 17th century, bare-knuckle fights were staged in the backroom of this Covent Garden old-timer – hence the pub’s former name, the Bucket of Blood. Its old beams and panelling, creaky stairs and quirky signs attract quite a few tourists, but locals are also drawn by the selection of quality cask ales.

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Pubs, Bars & Clubs Bar Rumba

basement DJ bar

9 F3

36 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1 • 020 7287 2715 www.barrumba.co.uk Open 5pm–3:30am Mon–Fri, 7pm–6am Sat, 8pm–1am Sun. Adm fee after 11pm

A well-established late-opening fixture of Soho nightlife, this is not a glamorous place, but the musical pedigree is impressive. Many of the world’s top DJs have spun here for a cosmopolitan crowd. Drinks are reasonably priced.

The Endurance

Soho pub

9 E3

90 Berwick Street, W1 • 020 7437 2944 Open noon–11pm daily

Sandwiched between second-hand record shops by Berwick Street Market, the Endurance has a fine range of beers and wines, and superb food at lunchtimes. The mixed, music-oriented clientele creates a lively ambience around a simple, one-bar interior. Classic punk and indie are on the jukebox.

Madame Jo-Jos

Soho cabaret club

9 E3

8–10 Brewer Street, W1 • 020 7734 3040 www.madamejojos.com Open Tue–Sat evenings

This plush old theatre has been used as a location in various films, including Stanley Kubrick’s Eyes Wide Shut (the scene where Tom Cruise meets the pianist and tries to elicit the code word for an orgy). Club nights include a regular Friday slot for Keb Darge’s Legendary Deep Funk, in which you’ll encounter some rare 45s and, usually, some acrobatic jazz- and breakdancers shaking to the beats. On Saturday, the Groove Sanctuary offers nu jazz, Latin and deep house. Madame Jo-Jos is best known for drag cabaret, and on Saturday evenings the Kitsch Cabaret takes place from 7 to 10pm. The excellent Kitty Cartier indulges in sharp-tongued repartee with the audience, then carouses them with show tunes and hits from the 1960s on. It’s a big party, with raucous hen night groups, jocular banter and the odd flash of old Soho flesh from hired strippers.

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Centre French House

literary, gallic pub

9 F3

49 Dean Street, W1 • 020 7437 2799 Open noon–11pm daily (to 10:30pm Sun)

This one-room cabin has a legendary past. Owned by the Belgian Berlemont family before World War I, The York Minster, as it was then known, enjoyed three golden eras. First came the cabaret days, when the great musical stars of Parisian chanson relaxed here between shows. Then the French Resistance used it as a London base for its clandestine operations. (De Gaulle and his Free French schemed in a room above the bar.) It became known as the French House at this time. In the 1950s, writers Dylan Thomas and Brendan Behan were among the celebrated regulars. The Berlemonts and the bohemians have gone, but a hangover from those boozy, literary days remains. Beer is not served in pints, but in glasses. Wine, cider from Brittany, pastis and champagne are all popular; classic French labels are also sold by the half-bottle. A framed photo of De Gaulle still has pride of place.

The Player

sexy basement bar

9 E3

8 Broadwick Street, W1 • 020 7494 9125 www.theplyr.com Open 5:30pm–midnight (to 1am Fri & Sat). Adm fee after 9pm Thu, Fri & Sat

This small bar is now part of the excellent Match chain, renowned for its cocktail expertise. You can expect high-volume music, slick service (many punters tip the waiters) and professional Martinis. Pre-booking a table is usually necessary.

Jerusalem

cheap eats & quality lagers

9 E2

33–34 Rathbone Place, W1 • 020 7255 1120 www.thebreakfastgroup.co.uk Open all day from noon Mon–Fri (to 1am Thu, Fri), 7pm–1am Sat. Adm fee after 9pm, 10pm Fri & Sat

At lunchtime the long wooden tables of this basement bar/restaurant heave with media folk from Soho. By night, it vibrates with a thriving club scene; in between, a trendy, post-work crowd dives into pitchers of beer. Never ask for a “beer” – it’s lager or bitter, preferably ordered by name

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Pubs, Bars & Clubs Market Place

Continental terrace scene

9 E2

11 Market Place, W1 • 020 7079 2020 Open 11am–11pm (to 1am Thu–Sat)

The Market Place prides itself on a roster of great DJs. It’s part of the highly regarded Cantaloupe group (see p47), which ensures a creative array of food and cocktails, and unusual international beers. Having to queue for entry is a drawback. (See how many asymmetrical haircuts you can spot while waiting.)

Mash

bar-diner with long opening hours

8 D2

19–21 Great Portland Street, W1 • 020 7637 5555 Open 10am–2am Mon–Fri; 11am–2am Sat

Tongue-in-cheek retro chic defines the look. The bar’s back wall exposes huge vats of the Mash range of house beers (draught pilsner, wheat, fruit or stout varieties). There are cocktails on offer, too, and sophisticated snacks, because the kitchen also caters for a high-standard restaurant upstairs.

Zeta Bar

swish hotel lounge bar

8 C5

Mayfair Hilton Hotel, 35 Hertford Street, W1 • 020 7208 4067 www.zeta-bar.com Open from 5pm Mon–Sat (to 1am Mon & Tue, to 3am Wed–Sat), 8pm–1am Sun. Adm after 11pm

Foxy décor, innovative cocktails and clubby music at conversational volume help make the Hilton’s bar a destination in its own right. Better still, bar prices, for Mayfair, are far from outrageous. The polished clientele can enjoy oysters and Thai fish cakes too.

The Social

diner by day, club bar by night

8 D2

5 Little Portland Street, W1 • 020 7636 4992 www.thesocial.com Open noon–midnight Mon–Fri, 1pm–midnight Sat

Daytime sees this street-level cabin café serve honest fodder (burgers, pies etc), as well as beer, hot drinks and the occasional cocktail. After dark, the area downstairs becomes a DJ bar of renown. Live acts have included Primal Scream and Badly Drawn Boy.

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Centre Cherry Jam

DJ bar

7 F2

58 Porchester Road, W2 • 020 7727 9950 www.cherryjam.net Open 6pm–2am Mon–Sat; 4pm–midnight Sun. Adm after 8pm

This is co-owned by Ben Watt of Everything But The Girl fame. In the early evening the place is fairly quiet and acts as a modest hangout for local hipsters. Bands or record decks start playing after about 9pm. Drinks include bottled beers, cocktails and coffee.

Lamb

characterful old pub

9 H1

94 Lamb’s Conduit Street, WC1 • 020 7405 0713 Open 11am–11pm Mon–Sat; noon–4pm, 7–10:30pm Sun

A curio between Clerkenwell and Bloomsbury, the Lamb is approaching its 300th anniversary, though what is preserved is a masterpiece from the Victorian era. Details include framed caricatures, etched glass and delicate screens giving customers privacy. The antique Polyphone music box is still in working order.

The End

steely cool club

9 G2

18 West Central St, WC1 • 020 7419 9199 www.endclub.com Open from 10pm; to 3am Mon & Wed; to 4am Thu; to 6am Fri & Sat

Down in the vaults of a former post office, The End is stylish in a minimalist way, with a kicking main room and a slightly more laid-back lounge, where Rob Mello and guests provide a mesmerizing concoction of electronic funk and house. Great sound system.

Nag’s Head

London’s most eccentric pub

14 B1

53 Kinnerton Street, SW1 • 020 7235 1135 Open 11am–11pm (noon–10:30pm Sun)

The intimate layout and interior oddities of this neighbourhood pub, set in a cobbled cul-de-sac, hark back to the early 1800s, when the place provided lodgings for stablehands. An excellent choice of traditional ales, fine food, a jazzy soundtrack and civilized atmosphere help ensure a solid core of amiable regulars. Many pubs do not serve food in the afternoons, after 2pm or 3pm

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Pubs, Bars & Clubs Blue Bar

hotel bar of the highest standard

14 B1

Berkeley Hotel, Wilton Place, SW1 • 020 7235 6000 Open 4pm–1am Mon–Sat

The Blue Bar at the Berkeley Hotel is a triumph of detail. Touches of Rococo and Art Deco blend into an eye-pleasing backdrop of stucco and Wedgwood blue in an interior of restrained style. An equally polished bar staff quietly dispenses bowls of warmed nuts and large, spicy olives as guests peruse an extensive list of cocktails, champagnes, Highland and Island malt whiskies and fine wines. Cocktails such as a classic Martini or champagne-based drinks are perfect in mix and presentation. American customers often opt for a classic malt and a cigar. (The cigars are displayed in a modest cabinet by the bar lined with champagne buckets.) The snack menu offers modern tapas dishes, which are as delicately presented as everything else here. On leaving, customers receive the same impeccably discreet nod that greeted them on the way in.

Townhouse

easy-going style bar

14 A1

31 Beauchamp Place, SW3 • 020 7589 5080 www.lab-townhouse.com Open 4pm–midnight Mon–Fri, noon–midnight Sat, 4–11:30pm Sun

This chic bar, set in a three-storey Georgian townhouse, serves cocktails created by famed mixologist Douglas Ankrah. There are more than 100 to consider, making for a tricky choice if your attention is further distracted by the classic movies projected silently on to a wall.

Apartment 195

upmarket lounge bar

14 A4

195 King’s Road, SW3 • 020 7351 5195 www.apartment195.co.uk Open from 4pm Mon–Sun

This exclusive style bar has created a much-needed buzz down the King’s Road. Members and stylish guests mingle in the cocktail lounge, salon and TV room, sipping professionally mixed classic cocktails (moderately priced), fine wines and classy beers. Phone to reserve a table on Fridays and Saturdays.

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West Lonsdale

concept bar of renown

6 D3

44–8 Lonsdale Road, W11 • 020 7727 4080 www.thelonsdale.co.uk Open 6pm–midnight daily (to 11:30pm Sun)

A recipient of many Best Bar awards, the Lonsdale scores top marks for its décor, superior drinks and tapas-style snacks. Beyond the starchy doormen, the atmosphere is loungy and laidback – even though you know that the “just got out of bed” look sported by all present took hours to create. The interior, designed by leading bar architects Fusion, features futuristic, aged-bronze hemispheres on the walls, and steel bobbles in the smaller upstairs bar. The famous cocktail list has been designed by London mixologists Dick Bradsell and Henry Besant. Martinis (choose from elderflower, rose petal, marmalade and other variants) are joined by fresh Raspberry Mules, Earl Grey Fizzes (delicate tea, mixed with bisongrass vodka and prosecco), Diane Von Furstenbergs (vodka, fruit, vanilla) and 60 others.

Trailer H

modest basement bar

6 C2

177 Portobello Road, W11 • 020 7727 2700 Open 5pm–late Tue–Fri, 6pm–late Sat

The H stands for “happiness”; indeed, the drinks list here is as good as it gets. House specials are luridcoloured tiki cocktails, which look as innocuous as fruit smoothies but, boy, do they kick. Zombies are limited to two per person. It’s the ideal venue for an apéritif before going to the Electric Cinema (see p123).

Golborne Grove

pub/bar/restaurant

6 C1

36 Golborne Road, W10 • 020 8960 6260 www.groverestaurants.co.uk Open 11am–midnight daily

Golborne Road is London’s “Little Casablanca”, busy with Moroccan eateries and shops. The landscape is less colourful at its western end, but relief is offered by this popular establishment, which offers excellent food (international) from a daily changing menu, a fine wine list and all the usual beers and spirits.

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Pubs, Bars & Clubs Notting Hill Arts Club

7 E4

acoustic pioneers

21 Notting Hill Gate, W11 • 020 7460 4459 www.nottinghillartsclub.com Open 6pm–1am Mon–Wed, 6pm–2am Thu & Fri, 4pm–2am Sat, 4pm–1am Sun

NHAC is always searching for new and exciting music and art, and programmes a diverse range of club nights, film screenings and live bands. Wednesdays are for nostalgics, though, as Death Disco crashes through some punk and indie rock.

Windsor Castle

al fresco pints

7 E5

114 Campden Hill Road, W8 • 020 7243 9551 Open noon–11pm Mon–Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun

This characterful and friendly old pub is a prime summer destination, thanks to its leafy beer garden at the back. Fish and chips and traditional pub grub always seem to taste that much better in the open air. At less clement times of the year, drinkers cosy up in a warren of oak-panelled rooms.

Black Friar

extraordinary interior

10 B3

174 Queen Victoria Street, EC4 • 020 7236 5474 Open 11:30am–11pm Mon–Fri; noon–10:30pm Sat

An unusual and much-loved landmark, the Black Friar was built in Victorian style on the site of a former Dominican monastery. An extravagant early-20thcentury Art Nouveau makeover left an interior with marble surfaces, mirrored alcoves and decorative monks. Grab a seat before the after-work crowd arrives.

Notorious Pubs & Literary Haunts In the first half of the 20th century, the Fitzroy Tavern was a shrine of London bohemia, frequented at one time or another by writers Dylan Thomas and George Orwell, magician Aleister Crowley and chief hangman Albert Pierrepoint. South of Oxford Street is the Pillars of Hercules, which is found in Dickens’ A Tale of Two Cities (1859) and was a favourite meeting

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point in the 1980s for authors such as Ian McEwan. On the same street is the Coach & Horses, with the self-proclaimed “rudest landlord in Soho”. Harddrinking journalist Jeffrey Bernard was a regular here. The nearby French House (see p139) has also been favoured by literary hellraisers and troubled souls, including poet and novelist Sylvia Plath. For individual pub details, see p228.

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West, City & East Vertigo

London’s highest bar

10 D2

Level 42, Tower 42, 25 Old Broad Street, EC2 • 020 7877 7842 www.vertigo42.co.uk Open by reservation only

Book in advance and dress smartly, and join City executives at the top of the former NatWest Tower for an unparalleled view of the capital. A choice of 30 brands of champagne, 10 fine wines and a range of classy, seafood-based dishes helps to heighten the experience even further.

Café Kick

homage to the beautiful game

4 A5

43 Exmouth Market, EC1 • 020 7837 8077 Open noon–11pm Mon–Sat, 1–11pm Sun

A continental-style café-bar where the main draw is classic Rene Pierre table football. Groups of young twentysomethings crowd the tables, animatedly flicking wrists and voicing their triumphs. European football memorabilia, bottled beers, wines and snacks from southern Europe add to the cosmopolitan mix.

Fabric

hedonistic clubbing at its finest

10 B1

77a Charterhouse St, EC1• 020 7336 8898 www.fabriclondon.com Open 9.30pm–5am Fri, 10pm–7am Sat; check website for details

With three great rooms and sound systems that make your legs shake, Fabric is quite possibly the best club in London – at least, that’s how it feels when you’re in it. Club nights aren’t all about big name DJs, but it’s hard not to be impressed by a line-up of turntablists and musicians which might include James Lavelle, Craig Richards, DJ Spinbad, Fila Brazillia or Roots Manuva. When he’s not over at Herbal (see p147), Goldie sometimes makes an appearance with his Metalheadz crew for an onslaught of junglist drum ’n’ bass. Fabric’s musical focus is house and techno on Saturdays and breakbeat, hip-hop and drum ’n’ bass for Friday’s FabricLive session, but you’ll also hear electro and nu jazz. FabricLive has also been instrumental in bringing to London’s attention live acts such as Norway’s Röyksopp.

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Pubs, Bars & Clubs Fluid

the perfect start to an all-nighter

10 B1

40 Charterhouse Street, EC1 • 020 7253 3444 www.fluidbar.com Open noon–midnight Mon–Wed, noon–2am Thu & Fri, 7pm–2am Sat. Adm Fri & Sat

Fluid is a delightfully kitsch DJ bar with Japanese details – screen prints, Asahi beer, rice-wine cocktails, even a photo-sticker booth. With its retro video games and superb soundtrack (leftfield beats, jazz dub, chunky house), it’s the ideal pre-club bar.

Jerusalem Tavern

old English pub

10 B1

55 Britton Street, EC1 • 020 7490 4281 Open 11am–11pm Mon–Fri

A simple, small wooden coffee house dating from the early 18th century is now the flagship outlet for North Suffolk’s excellent St Peter’s Brewery. Unusual fruit beers and classic ales are served, while fine pub lunches are provided for habitués of Clerkenwell looking for a little respite from the area’s DJ bars.

Turnmills

10 B1

dance club

63b Clerkenwell Rd, EC1 • 020 7250 3409 www.turnmills.co.uk Open 6:30pm–midnight Tue, 10pm–4am Thu, 10:30pm–7:30am Fri, 10pm–6am Sat

An industrial-gothic interior with low ceilings gives Turnmills a deep, dark and sweaty feel once the upfor-it crowd gets into the groove. The club’s rooms include two main dance floors and some chill-out areas; the music tips towards house and clubby R&B.

Cargo

live music & all-day drinking

5 E5

83 Rivington St, EC2 • 020 7739 3440 www.cargo-london.com Open 6pm–1am Mon, noon–1am Tue–Thu, noon–3am Fri, 6pm–3am Sat, 1pm–midnight Sun

Under the railway arches of Shoreditch, Cargo is a daytime bar-café, a live music venue and a dance club all in one. International sounds get an airing at Champions of Sound (Fridays), and Cargo’s occasional mini festivals also promote diverse, global music.

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City & East Herbal

mixed bag of music

5 E4

10–14 Kingsland Rd, Shoreditch, E2 • 020 7613 4462 www.herbaluk.com Open 9pm–2am Mon, Wed & Thu (to 3am Fri & Sat, to 2am Sun), 8pm–1am Tue

This is a club that’s got all its priorities right: an old warehouse building that’s left largely untouched; comfy bar with concrete floors and windows overlooking the street; a superior sound system; and, best of all, a menu of musical flavours that pulls the initiated back again and again. One of the best (irregular) nights is Eastern Drum and Breaks: in the main dance area you can lose yourself in some intense London-style tabla breaks, while upstairs in the bar the mood is mellower, for more Anglo-Asian experiments in sound. Other great nights include the monthly Hospitality, for a lessabrasive form of drum ’n’ bass, and Starf*cker for funky house and a light smattering of 1980s porn music. Herbal’s guest DJs have included Grooverider, Artful Dodger, Gilles Peterson, Mr Thing and Goldie.

Hoxton Square Bar & Kitchen groundbreaking style bar

5 E5

2–4 Hoxton Square, N1 • 020 7613 0709 Open 10am–midnight Mon–Thu (to 2am Fri & Sat, to 12:30am Sun)

Formerly the Lux Bar (when it kick-started London’s style-bar revolution), HSB&K now has even more bare concrete space and battered old sofas to lounge on. Decent, simple bar food and good European lagers are served. Grab a window seat before the evening rush.

Mother/333

DJ bar and club

5 E5

333 Old Street, EC1 • 020 7739 5949 www.333mother.com Open 8pm to 3 or 4am nightly

The first-floor Mother bar opens at 8pm nightly; closing time depends on what’s on. Club 333 downstairs joins up with Mother on weekend nights for sweaty fun and a real mix of music. You’ll find a friendly crowd, while top-notch DJs such as Andrew Weatherall and Smilex keep the mood upbeat. DJ bars and clubs usually charge admission after 9 or 10pm, and stay open into the early hours

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Pubs, Bars & Clubs Vibe Bar

bohemian DJ bar

11 F1

Old Truman Brewery, 91–95 Brick Lane, E1 • 020 7377 2899 www.vibe-bar.co.uk Open 11am–11:30pm Mon–Thu & Sun, 11am–1am Fri–Sat. Adm fee after 8pm Fri & Sat

Spread around various poky spaces in a former brewery, this arty venue doubles up as a successful DJ bar and live music outlet, and has helped to regenerate the cultural life of the Brick Lane area (see p160). The main room may look makeshift – haphazard furniture, murals, an old piano and a DJ shack – but the Vibe is a well-run, multidisciplined organization attracting customers from all income brackets. A menu of curries, kebabs and salads helps wash down standard beers and strong cocktails. One side room is sometimes given over to obscure board games from the Indian Subcontinent; there’s Internet access, too. The best space is a cobbled courtyard (covered and heated in winter), which lends an al fresco, continental air to this otherwise truly crosscultural London experience.

Pride of Spitalfields

East End boozer

11 F1

3 Heneage Street, E1 • 020 7247 8933 Open 11am–11pm Mon–Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun

A solid, honest-to-goodness pub, located on a side road off Brick Lane. Many come here for a swift drink before visiting a nearby curry house. Traditional ales include Crouch Vale Best, Fuller’s ESB and London Pride, plus obscure guest ales. Authentic jellied eels come free on Sunday lunchtimes.

93 Feet East

bar & evening club

11 F1

150 Brick Lane, E1 • 020 7247 3293 www.93feeteast.co.uk Open 5–11pm Mon–Thu, 5pm–1am Fri, noon–1am Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun

You know this place must be a bit special, because it manages to draw in a regular crowd despite restricted opening hours. Success is due to a searching music policy, mixing live acts, visuals and great DJs, plus cool bar areas and a courtyard too.

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City & East Golden Hart

artists’ haunt

11 F1

110 Commercial Street, E1 • 020 7247 2158 Open 11am–11pm Mon–Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun

Popularized by the 1990s crop of young British artists, this smoky Victorian institution of dark-wood panelling and traditional ales is also a favourite of workers from Shoreditch market. This gives the pub the feel of a genuine “local”. In summer, there is outside seating. Be warned: the bar staff are notoriously abrupt.

Loungelover

hedonistic bar

5 F5

1 Whitby Street, E1 • 020 7012 1234 Open 6pm–midnight Mon–Thu, 6pm–1am Fri, 7pm–1am Sat

The latest innovative designer bar, set beside Les Trois Garçons (see p47), is anything but miminalist. A camp interior of chandeliers and bizarre bric-a-brac is complemented by Lover-themed cocktails and champagne frosts, delivered by a studiously trendy bar staff. Book a table in advance at weekends.

Prospect of Whitby

ancient inn on the Thames

57 Wapping Wall, E1 • 020 7481 1095 • 1 Wapping Open 11:30am–11pm Mon–Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun

London’s oldest riverside pub, still with its flagstone floor and pewter-covered bar counter, was a smugglers’ inn in the 16th century, and later served liquid refreshment to Samuel Pepys and Charles Dickens. Today, it is enjoyed by locals and visitors alike, lured by real ales and views from the terrace.

The Grapes

another historic riverside boozer

76 Narrow Street, E14 • 020 7987 4396 • Limehouse DLR Open noon–3 & 5:30–11 Mon–Fri, noon–11 Sat, noon–10:30 Sun

As wonky and haphazard as when Charles Dickens described it in Our Mutual Friend (1864), this creaking wooden pub still boasts its riverside platform terrace. Today, it also has a first-class fish restaurant upstairs, and excellent seafood-oriented bar snacks. Real ales are on offer, too. The best London beers are Fuller’s (who brew London Pride and ESB) and Young’s (Special)

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Pubs, Bars & Clubs Medicine Bar

very popular DJ bar

4 B2

181 Upper Street, N1 • 020 7704 9536 Also at 89 Great Eastern Street, EC2 www.medicinebar.net Open 5pm–midnight Mon–Thu, 5pm–2am Fri, noon–2am Sat, noon–midnight Sun. Adm after 9pm Fri & Sat; DJs Thu–Sun

This enormously successful clubby bar on Islington’s main street has now spawned a branch in hipper Shoreditch, but the original venue cannot be beaten. The formula is quite simple: take an ornate bar of the traditional pub variety; around it, create a laid-back interior of subtle lighting, tatty sofas and greenery; make sure you keep dispensing spot-on cocktails and standard beers at very reasonable prices; and, finally, hire a DJ to mix up a storm. The sounds encompass jazz funk, soul, hip-hop, jazzy drum ’n’ bass and house. There’s a modest chill-out room, and on summer evenings the adjoining passage is filled with tables. The atmosphere is sexy and slightly bohemian; the clientele second-generation clubbers, who’ve sampled all kinds of nightlife and feel at home with something less full-on than a proper club night. Admirably unpretentious, the Medicine Bar’s only snag is its very popularity and infectious spirit. Two hundred people jigging around the narrow main bar on a busy night leaves little room for manoeuvre. Those people swanning to the head of the queue and enjoying discounts have gone to the trouble of obtaining a membership card – check the venue’s funky website for details of this and forthcoming DJs.

Embassy Bar

very cool bar

4 B2

119 Essex Road, N1 • 020 7226 7901 www.embassybar.com Open 5pm–midnight daily (to 2am Fri & Sat)

While nearby Upper Street is big with party crowds, this bar draws the discerning. Behind an all-black exterior is a small bar room with a central, semi-circular counter and an outer ring of black leather furniture for lounging. Downstairs is the dance floor.

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North The Crown

friendly gastropub

4 A3

116 Cloudesley Road, N1 • 020 7837 7107 Open noon–11pm Mon–Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun

Fuller’s Brewery made a wise choice when they decided to give this standard local a serious upgrade in the late 1990s. Set in a tranquil street surrounded by grand townhouses, The Crown’s catchment area was undergoing a serious demographic shift. Soon the newly rusticated interior was filled with discerning high-income professional couples, ably catered to by an open kitchen au fait with chargrilled meats and continental sauces. The quality of wine on offer has improved beyond recognition, and cocktails, too, are of a standard (and a price) expected in the West End. The character of the original pub has been kept, with the etched-glass panels and a beautifully carved oak bar. The menu, chalked up on a board, invariably features a couple of safe standards, not least a superb Sunday roast. A patio comes into good use in summer, and children are welcome all year round.

Island Queen

elegant old pub

4 B3

87 Noel Road, N1 • 020 7704 7631 Open noon–11pm Mon–Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun

A haunt of actors and canal-side residents, the Island Queen is a study in decorum and good taste. Ships’ figureheads set against dark wood and etched glass are attractive features of this venerable establishment. It is also appreciated for its fine ales (such as London Pride) and the no smoking section in the snug.

Pineapple

a locals’ local

51 Leverton Street, NW5 • 020 7284 4631 • 1 Kentish Town Open 11am–11pm Mon–Sat, 11am–10:30pm Sun

The Pineapple is a gem of a pub, hidden away in the backstreets of Kentish Town. A cool, arty crowd served by cool, arty barstaff in cool, arty surroundings are the key elements. It also has real ales (including the sought-after Marston’s Pedigree), good music and a conservatory.

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Pubs, Bars & Clubs Lock Tavern

2 D2

DJ-run Brit pub

35 Chalk Farm Road, NW1 • 020 7482 7163 Open noon–11pm Mon–Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun

This landmark venue in Camden (not by the Lock, ironically) offers textbook lessons in how to run a modern, urban public house. Once a grimy Victorian city pub, it has been renovated by a music-minded team keen to appeal to discerning all-comers. The Lock retains the comforts of a local pub – leather furniture in the main downstairs bar, armchairs around the fireside in the upstairs one – and runs an excellent kitchen, providing what is best described as British tapas, reasonably priced and catering to vegetarians. Fine ales are poured alongside standard lagers, and sunk with abandon at weekends. The beer garden (covered and heated in winter) and roof terrace overlooking Camden Market buzz with savvy young urbanites, happy to waste entire Sundays here. That’s when DJs play all day, with international “names” doing a turn once in a while.

Mac Bar

hip DJ hangout

3 E2

102 Camden Road, NW1 • 020 7485 4530 www.macbar.co.uk Open noon–11 Mon–Sat, noon–10:30 Sun

A brash cocktail-and-DJ bar of high repute, the Mac Bar represents a bright beacon of change in Camden’s somewhat stilted pub life. Here, a sharp crowd gathers around the maroon furniture, enjoying superbly mixed cocktails and equally well mixed musical accompaniments (DJs Fridays and Saturdays, jazz Wednesdays).

Anchor Bankside

historic riverside pub

10 C4

34 Park Street, SE1 • 020 7407 1577 Open 11am–11pm Mon–Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun

Its heavy beams and bare stonework bore witness to such famous figures as Dr Samuel Johnson in the 18th century. Today, the Anchor’s proximity to the Globe and Tate Modern makes it popular with visitors to London. The riverside terrace is a draw in summer, but the cosy interior is at its best in winter.

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North & South Vauxhall Tavern

high camp fun & laughs

15 H4

372 Kennington Lane, SE11 • 020 7737 4043 Open 9pm–2am Sat, noon–midnight Sun

Saturday is the big night here, when Duckie – a gay London institution – features cabaret, punk, post-punk and electro spun on the decks by London Readers Wifes (sic). Between the main acts, hostess Amy Lamé (right) orchestrates a quiz or two. Sundays are for lounging with Slags Chillout DJ set.

Ministry of Sound

branded superclub

103 Gaunt Street, SE1 • 0870 0600010 • 1 Elephant & Castle www.ministryofsound.com Open 10:30pm–5am Fri, 11pm–7am Sat; check website for other club nights

Many die-hard clubbers now shun the Ministry (in part for its megalomaniacal branding), but you’d be a fool to ignore one of its big nights, when the likes of Little Louie Vega from Masters At Work or London’s very own Norman Jay take to the decks – bliss.

Fridge/Fridge Bar

Brixton institutions

1 Town Hall Parade, SW2 • 020 7326 5100 • 1 Brixton www.fridge.co.uk Fridge open 10pm–6am Fri & Sat; Fridge Bar open 11am–midnight daily (to 3am Fri & Sat)

Saturday’s Love Muscle is the regular, pumped-up gay night. On every other Friday, Fusion keeps things fast and sweaty for clubbers of all persuasions until dawn. The Fridge Bar has its own club – try the occasional ’Til Shiloh night, for dub, and roots and culture.

Beer Gardens Few city-centre pubs have beer gardens, but there are plenty further afield where Londoners revel in a combination of beer and sun at the first warming of the weather. One of the largest gardens belongs to the Freemason’s Arms just off Hampstead Heath, and there’s a smaller, prettier garden attached to the nearby historic Spaniards Inn. Islington

residents drink under open skies at the countryfied Albion; while over in Camden, the defiantly urban Lock Tavern (see opposite) boasts a roof terrace. Pick of the South London pubs for alfresco boozing is the Windmill, which has Clapham Common as its garden. The Royal Inn on the Park is a fine East London pub on the edge of Victoria Park. For individual pub details, see p228.

Pubs with attractive gardens or terraces get packed on summer weekends – get there early

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Pubs, Bars & Clubs Bug Bar & Lounge

DJs in the crypt

The Crypt, Brixton Hill, SW2 • 020 7738 3366 • 1 Brixton www.bugbrixton.co.uk Open 8pm–1am Thu, 8pm–3am Fri & Sat, 8pm–2am Sun. Adm Thu–Sun after 9pm

This destination DJ bar and club, located in a spacious stone crypt beneath Brixton’s St Matthew’s Church, has undergone a recent upgrade after seven years of gritty, Gothic hedonism. The old décor, redolent of a student party, has gone, and in its place more stylish, leather furniture has been spread over the basement space. The lighting, too, is more in tune with a lounge interior than low-key dive, and the Bug has even allowed itself the new epithet “& Lounge”. The music is still excellent (from breakbeats on Saturdays to Sunday’s ‘Baptizm’ funk and soul night), and the dance floor in the Bug’s club room has lost none of its raw energy. Reasonably priced cocktails and a loyal core of regulars – plus a surprising number happy to travel across the river for a night here – ensure that the Bug is in no danger of over-gentrification.

Dogstar

DJ bar with attitude

389 Coldharbour Lane, SW9 • 020 7733 7515 • 1 Brixton www.thedogstar.com Open noon–2am Sun–Thu (to 4am Fri & Sat)

Dogstar is a large, loud dance bar, revered for having kick-started the Brixton nightlife revolution in the mid-1990s. A younger generation now meets under the overhead projectors, but the formula is pretty much the same: late, late nights and serious partying.

Riverside Pubs The Founders Arms, a modern brick bunker near Tate Modern, is the most central Thames-side pub. For more atmosphere and a riverside terrace, try Anchor Bankside, which dates from 1775. Further east, other historic riverside pubs include the Prospect of Whitby, The Grapes (both p149) and, in Greenwich, the Trafalgar Tavern (see opposite).

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Hammersmith boasts a string of pubs linked by a riverside walkway. Best of the bunch is The Dove, which began life in the 18th century as a coffeehouse and has Britain’s smallest bar. The nearby Blue Anchor is where Gwyneth Paltrow engaged in silly drinking games in Sliding Doors. Richmond has perhaps the finest riverside pubs, notably the White Cross. For individual pub details, see pp228–9.

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South Bread & Roses

family-oriented pub

68 Clapham Manor St, SW4 • 020 7498 1779 • 1 Clapham North Open noon–11pm Mon–Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun

This pub is run by the Workers’ Beer Company, which lines up its own house ale alongside other quality varieties, and names its potent cocktails after famous revolutionaries. The pub food is wholesome, and children are unusually well catered for, with a daytime crèche and play area.

Prince of Wales

a pub with character

38 Old Town, SW4 • 020 7622 3530 • 1 Clapham Common Open 5–11pm Mon–Fri, 1–11pm Sat, 1–10:30pm Sun

The Prince of Wales is an eccentric pub, full of curios accumulated by the present landlord after a lifetime at sea. Superb ales feature strongly, although finding the space to enjoy them amid all the junk can be a problem. The pub attracts South London’s bohemian dreamers, and serenades them with alternative music.

Greenwich Union

own-brew place

16 B3

56 Royal Hill, SE10 • 020 8692 6258 Open 11am–11pm Mon–Fri, 10am–11pm Sat (to 10:30pm Sun)

Interesting house beers are available at this establishment, run by the Meantime Brewing Company. They include the company’s Union brand, alongside raspberry and chocolate varieties and traditional Central European brews. There’s excellent food, regular live jazz, a front terrace and a back garden.

Trafalgar Tavern

historic ale house

16 C1

Park Row, SE10 • 020 8858 2909 www.trafalgartavern.co.uk Open 11:30am–11pm Mon–Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun

This has been a Greenwich institution for 150 years or more, its walls lapped by the Thames, and its grand, high-ceilinged rooms dotted with maritime memorabilia. Real ales and Czech lagers are a fixture in the three main bar areas. Brixton and Clerkenwell rank alongside Soho as London’s best spots for nightlife

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streetlife Markets are the pulse of local neighbourhoods such as Notting Hill, Spitalfields and Borough. Elsewhere, it is the bars, shops, galleries and cafés that provide the spark – as in Hoxton, where locals spill out of the pubs and onto the pavements at the first glimmer of sunshine. Other areas, notably Brixton and Soho, come into their own after nightfall.

Streetlife Soho

24-hour party people

9 F3

The densely packed district between Oxford Street to the north and Chinatown to the south is a hive of activity day and night. Old Compton Street, Soho’s main thoroughfare, represents London at its most sexually relaxed – almost every bar and café along the road (from G-A-Y to Comptons) has a predominantly gay clientele. There is a wider, international appeal to adjoining streets, where you find the French House (see p139), the Gay Hussar (No. 2 Greek St) and the non-stop, caffeine-fuelled Bar Italia (Frith Street; see also p19), in which Italian football plays on the screen whenever possible. Wardour Street is busier, with some good food stops, such as Satsuma, Mezzo and Spiga, but the grittiest and most varied part of Soho lies between Brewer and Broadwick streets. Brewer is home to Madame Jo-Jos (see p138) and The Escape Bar (gay dance acts); style books (Soho’s Original Book Shop)

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and gay erotica (Prowler Soho); Randall & Aubin for seafood and champagne; and Lina Stores, one of the few remaining Italian delicatessens in Soho (along with Camisa at No. 61 Old Compton Street). Walker’s Court leads through to Berwick Street, passing a concentration of sex shops and peep shows. Berwick Street retains a lively street market and is renowned for its record shops. Vinyl Junkies offers the latest in dood dance music and Sister Ray and Selectadisc offer a mixed bag of music styles, old and new. There is also a great selection of fabric shops, selling everything from silk to PVC. Rainy nights and Soho go hand in hand, but if you find yourself here on a bright summer’s day, pick up something sweet at Patisserie Valerie (see p26) and head for prim Soho Square or the spruced up St Anne’s Churchyard. Here you can laze the afternoon away, until the lure of sweaty bars and loud music drags you back into the melee.

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Centre & West

Portobello Road

shops, stalls & cafés

6 D3

Antiques market open 7:30am–5:30pm Sat; general market & shops 9am–5pm Mon–Sat (to 1pm Thu)

This is one of the most characterful streets in London. A mile-long walk along its north-south axis takes you from pastel-hued Notting Hill cottages and quaint little antiques shops to a blankets-on-the-floor street market in the shadows of the Westway flyover. The area was lowly in the 1950s, and bohemian in the 1960s and 1970s. Today it remains – despite the influence of well-heeled local celebrities and films such as Notting Hill – eclectic, vibrant and fun. The southern end of the road is at its busiest best on Saturdays, when the antiques market holds sway. The quaint shops have a preponderance of well-oiled cricket bats, ancient golf clubs, tanned leather footballs and old curling stones destined for re-use as doorstops. A clutter of Victoriana – enamel signs, painted buckets and faded flags – can be trawled through at Alice’s (No. 86). Close by, refreshment is

readily available at the Earl of Londsdale on the corner of Westbourne Grove or the Fluid Juice Bar on Elgin Crescent. Just beyond the Electric Cinema (see also p15) and its brasserie, Blenheim Crescent cuts across Portobello. Situated here are two excellent bookshops, Blenheim Books and the Travel Bookshop, which has a good selection on London. The general market (with a nice stall for olives and breads) takes place below the flyover. Here, the Market Bar is always good for a lager or cocktail. Café Grove opposite has a first-floor terrace. North of the Westway is Portobello Green (see p83) and a rambling Saturday market that peters out as it reaches the Golborne Road. Here funky clothes shops (see p85) and antique furniture shops spill out onto the pavements, and there are some good bars and eateries: Bed for drinks from early evening, Galicia for tapas; Golborne Grove (see p143) as the requisite gastropub; Lisboa Patisserie (see p42); and George’s Portobello Fish Bar for takeaways.

www.portobelloroad.co.uk has information about Portobello’s antiques shops and stalls

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Streetlife Westbourne Park

upmarket Notting Hill

6 D3

The joys of this characterful West London enclave are split between the leisurely shops of Westbourne Grove, and the eateries on Westbourne Park Road. The Grove is a place for boutique-browsing on sunny days. Its focal point, strangely, is a Piers Goughdesigned turquoise-brick public toilet building, reminiscent of the Art Nouveau Métro entrances of Paris. A flower kiosk, Wild at Heart, is built into the structure. Nearby shops include Joseph (No. 236), Agnès B (No. 235), Camper (No. 214), Jigsaw (No. 192) and Anne Wiberg’s “trash couture” (No. 170). A 5-minute stroll up Chepstow Road – passing or otherwise the Prince Bonaparte – takes you to Westbourne Park Road. To your left are The Oak gastropub and Lucky 7, a groovy diner-type place for soups, sandwiches, hot dogs, beers and shakes. And to your right, the wonderful Cow and its friendly rival The Westbourne, both gastropubs of renown. For a quieter meal, there’s Rosa’s, a simple, almost rustic dining room at No. 69.

Brick Lane

curry houses & style shops

11 F1

Once synonymous with fantastic cheap curry houses, Brick Lane in London’s East End has a more diverse character these days. The restaurants are still there – Preethi, Le Taj, Café Naz, Bengal Cuisine, Meraz Café on Hanbury Street, to name a few – though price rises and touting have tainted their image. North of the Truman’s Brewery there is now a cluster of fashion outlets, stylish furniture shops and hip cafés and bars. The most interesting clothes shops are in Dray Walk on the old brewery site – Junky, Public Beware and Gloria’s Super Deluxe. Nearby, 93 Feet East and the Vibe Bar (see p148) soak up the evening crowds. A daytime visit is best on Sundays, when the trashy morning market brings throngs of people to the streets here, but any evening is good for wandering between the neon-signed curry houses and maybe stopping in for a pint at the old-fashioned Pride of Spitalfields (see p148). For more about shopping in Brick Lane and nearby Cheshire Street, see p88.

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West, City & East Spitalfields Market

fashion & furniture

11 F1

020 7247 8556 Open 10:30–4:30 Mon–Fri; 10–5 Sun

Currently London’s most exciting market, Spitalfields – set in a historic building just east of the City – is jam-packed on Sundays with stalls selling everything from organic vegetables to retro furniture. Fashion has become its greatest strength, though – look out for the Vivienne Westwood-inspired Grunge Vogue and a young designer called Kim. Flower stalls, such as Chayapa Flowers, add to the fun, and permanent stalls such as Arkansas Café (barbecued steaks and roast poultry) provide tasty nourishment. Weekdays are much quieter, but the market continues and on Thursdays trades almost exclusively in fashion. Lamb Street to the north and Brushfield Street to the south are home to interesting vintage furniture outlets, quality poster shops and traditional British food shop A Gold (see p87). The Market Coffee House is perfect for a moment of repose.

Columbia Road

East End flower market

5 F4

From the break of dawn on Sunday mornings, this short stretch of narrow East London road rouses itself into a vibrant flower- and foliage-filled market. Stall traders shout about their bargain trays of bedding plants and wait for the late-rising urbanites to turn up for exotica in the form of banana plants and tree ferns. Snack stalls and cafés offer breakfasts, brunches and early lunches and, when that’s done, the Birdcage pub on the corner of Columbia Road and Cosset Road is on hand to slake mid-morning thirsts. If that doesn’t take your fancy, there’s Laxeiro tapas bar at the other end of the market, Stingray Global Café for oversize pizzas or the more secretive Nelson’s Head pub, tucked away on Horatio Street. Alongside the horticulture, Columbia Road’s shops offer a nice line in furniture (old, retro and new) as well as ceramics and funky light shades. By early afternoon, the crowds disperse, most carrying a pet-sized piece of the great natural world back to their city flats. For information about all Brick Lane’s curry houses, see www.bricklanerestaurants.com

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Streetlife

Hoxton

bohemian Shoreditch

5 E5

It’s indisputably London’s coolest area for an artsy crowd – and Hoxton’s bubble is far from bursting. Designers, artists and other creative types saw the potential in this down-at-heel district in the mid-90s, converting derelict buildings into studios and live-work lofts. A smattering of bars followed. Now the streets around Hoxton Square and Charlotte Road are lined with hip restaurants, clubs, design shops and galleries. Hoxton wakes up late, and the daytime streets can feel quite lazy, especially at weekends when people saunter between the galleries. Jay Jopling’s White Cube, situated on the square, is the biggest gallery; The Agency (ring the buzzer at 18 Charlotte Road) is one of the longest established. There’s also a great contemporary arts bookshop, ARTWORDS, at 65 Rivington Street. Arrive late in the afternoon, take up a seat at one of the bars and watch the throngs gather as the sky darkens. The Bricklayer’s Arms on Charlotte Road is an old stalwart, while Zigfrid has Chesterfield sofas and large windows framing the square.

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Ktchn (35 Charlotte Rd) does excellent European/ Middle Eastern salads to take-away. Many of the bars serve decent food (Cantaloupe, see p47, and the Great Eastern Dining Room, see p48), Hoxton Square Bar and Kitchen, see p147, and again, Zigfrid). For a little more formality, head for the Rivington Bar and Grill (Rivington St) or Home on Leonard Street. On Curtain Road and Shoreditch High Street, the bars have more of a boyish feel to them, with much evidence of pool tables (Elbow Room and Pool, opposite each other on Curtain Road). Bar Kick on Shoreditch High Street has table football. Juno, next door, has a variety of nostalgic games for those who grew up in the age of Space Invaders and Pac Man. Round the corner on Kingsland Road is Dream Bags/ Jaguar Shoes, a name left over from previous occupants. Befitting the bar’s bohemian New York style, Leonard Cohen doesn’t so much play from the speakers as seep from the crumbling plasterwork. For the late-night, early-morning crowd, there are the clubs Herbal, Cargo and Mother/333 (see pp146–7).

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City & East, North & South Camden Lock

Camden Market’s best spot

2 D2

The roadway from Camden Tube to Chalk Farm Road Tube is awash with stalls dishing out T-shirts, cheap fashionwear and all manner of smoking paraphernalia. The nicest part of Camden Market, though, is at its furthest reaches, in and around the railway arches of Stables Market. Here, you’ll find a good mix of retro-style clothes, furniture and curios. There’s also “goth” gear and techno clubwear – the latter in the clublike space of Cyberdog, where a bar serves guarana drinks and fruity “detox” concoctions. The music gets evermore manic, and the whiff of incense and cooking hangs everywhere. The snacks served by the market food stalls are just belly-fillers, though. If you want a more carefully prepared meal and a drink, head across Chalk Farm Road to the Lock Tavern (see p152), or to its near neighbour the Loch Fyne Oyster Bar. The Enterprise, a free house (pub) right outside Chalk Farm Road station, serves up a good pint.

Borough

London’s larder by the river

10 D4

With the rumble and clatter of trains passing overhead, Borough Market (open noon–6pm Fri and 9am–4pm Sat) on the South Bank brightens the shadows of Southwark’s railway arches with bright red and yellow awnings spread above stalls selling Spanish hams, local breads, French cheeses, and wild game from the Highlands of Scotland. This is the belly of modern London, a neighbourhood crammed with the warehouses of food importers. As well as buying food to take away, market regulars can munch on juicy venison burgers, washed down with a pint at the Market Porter, The Wheatsheaf or the Globe Tavern. Day-trippers tend to take a more leisurely lunch, with a meal at Fish! or round the corner at Cantina Vinopolis. Though most signs point to Southwark Cathedral and the Thameside Walk, it’s worth exploring a few of Borough’s dark old streets, which yield up great pubs, such as the historic George Inn, just off Borough High Street, and the Royal Oak on Tabard Street. Camden Lock is busiest on Saturdays and Sundays, but some shops and stalls are open all week

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Streetlife

The South Bank

riverside culture

10 A4

At the heart of an arching, river-hugging cultural quarter, the South Bank Complex includes the South Bank Centre (see p129), Hayward Gallery (see p109) and Royal National Theatre (see p129). Tucked under Waterloo Bridge are the NFT (see p130), its lively Film Café and some browsable second-hand bookstalls. Few people are indifferent to the Brutalist/ International Style architecture of these buildings, and the National Theatre in particular is often vilified – unjustly so, given the fantastic interior spaces, which include many café, bar and foyer areas for socializing and free entertainment. The Long Bar at the National, for example, hosts an excellent pre-theatre programme of World Music in the early evening. To the west of this complex is the touristy area around the London Eye (see p18). To the east, along the riverbank, is the quieter, prettier area of Gabriel’s

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Wharf – a kind of middle-class shanty town, with pizzerias and crafts shops, a place to hire bicycles (London Bicycle Tour Co) and Riverside Therapies for a shiatsu or Swedish back rub. Further east, crafts continue at the Oxo Tower Wharf (see p91), also home to its namesake restaurant (see p54). Tate Modern (see p111) brings thousands to Bankside daily, along the riverside walk, across the Millennium Bridge from the direction of the City and St Paul’s, or by riverboat (see p100). Theatregoers off to Shakespeare’s Globe (see p130) and visitors to Vinopolis (a wine museum with a good bistro) swell the numbers further. Two pubs on hand, The Anchor (see p154) and the Founders Arms, get very busy in summer. Venture just a little further along the river to the freshly scrubbed Southwark Cathedral, and you will find plenty of great pubs and decent cafés, and the superb food market at Borough (see p163). www.elondon.dk.com

South Northcote Road

neighbourhood food market

£ Clapham Junction

Market open 9–5 Thu, Fri & Sat

Clapham’s market road is at its jolliest on Saturdays. London’s foodies are well served by delicatessens, shops and stalls selling designer kitchenware, cheeses, artisan breads, meats and fresh fish. Make up a picnic to take to nearby Clapham Common or eat at the superb Gourmet Burger Kitchen (No. 44). For a drink, it has to be The Eagle on Chatham Road. 7

Brixton

lively days & even livelier nights

At the southern end of the Victoria Tube line, Brixton is home to a mix of cultures and social groups. This diversity is reflected in the shops, cafés, restaurants, bars and clubs. Busy with a lively market by day, it is, however, at night that Brixton comes into its own, when it draws in a youthful, partying crowd. The Dogstar (see p154), Living and the Fridge Bar (see p153) all get going early, as do the local eateries – Ichiban for sushi, Fujiyama and the Satay Bar for noodles and rice dishes, and Bamboula for Caribbean food. For an unusual dining experience, try the camp Baroque of Café Goya; the excellent Caribbean cooking at the Brixtonian Havana Club (which also stocks more than 200 rums!); or the atmospheric Bug Restaurant, which shares St Matthew’s crypt with the Bug Bar & Lounge (see p154). As the night draws on, the streets are criss-crossed with people heading in different directions: the Brixton Academy for live bands; the Juice Bar for poetry nights; the Ritzy (see p131) for films; Tongue & Groove and Neon for cocktails in a clubby vibe; or the pulsating George IV DJ bar on Brixton Hill. Mass, Substation South (gay) and the Fridge (mixed, see p153) are the big clubs with all-nighters on Fridays and Saturdays. Throughout the night, buses head back into central London from outside the Fridge, and there’s a black cab rank outside the cinema. But many revellers stay until 6am, spilling out onto Brixton’s green by the church in the early morning sunlight.

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havens Sometimes you just need to steal away from the accelerated pace of city life. A wealth of parks makes London one of the world’s greenest cities. But, even in the centre of town, there are many other places that offer solace and respite. Spas and massage provide deep relaxation, and you will also find secret courtyards, old stone churches and tranquil woodland cemeteries in which to stroll or contemplate.

Havens Temple

serene courtyards of the judiciary

10 A3

Off Fleet Street, EC4 • Tours 020 7797 8241 (minimum of 5) www.innertemple.org.uk or www.middletemple.org.uk

Background noise drops to the level of polished shoes clipping across worn flagstones as soon as you venture through the small archway of Inner Temple Lane. Take a slow stroll around the interconnected courtyards of the Inner and Middle Temples, surrounded by the chambers of law firms established here since the mid-14th century. Before that time, the area belonged to the Knights Templar; the statue by Temple Church (see p98), which depicts two knights sharing a horse, recalls the vows of poverty made by that military brotherhood when it was formed in 1117. By the side of Middle Temple’s Elizabethan Banqueting Hall is the perfect oasis of Fountain Court, its gnarled trees propped up by posts around a small pool and fountain, with plane trees towering overhead. Beyond here, lawns (usually open 12:30–3pm Mon–Fri) stretch down towards the Thames.

Indian Head Massage

free your mind

8 C3

Farmacia, Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, W1 • 020 7318 2365 www.farmacia123.com Head massage on Tue, Thu & every other Sat

The Indian head massage technique uses pressure, finger taps and light flicks to release tension. The masseuse will concentrate on your head and neck, but may work all the way down to the tips of your toes in order to find the source of tension. You may experience some discomfort here and there, but, by the end of the half-hour session, you should feel a deep sense of relaxation.

Victoria Embankment Gardens breathing space

9 G4

Though small, these gardens are a treasure for anyone wishing to steal away from the hurly-burly of the city. A small café rustles up all-day breakfasts, and music plays from the bandstand in summer, while workers on their lunch break soak up the sunshine. Look for the implausibly placed watergate – the land around here was claimed from the Thames in 1862.

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Centre Elemis Day Spa

queenly pampering

8 D3

2–3 Lancashire Court, W1 • 020 7499 5095 www.elemis.com Open from 9am daily

Both men and women are welcome at this spa, which is renowned for discreet ocean wraps, Japanese silk facials, stone therapies, Balinese borehs and dozens of other exotic rituals. A “rasul” with mud in a steam room is the cheapest option, but you must book several weeks in advance or hope for a cancellation.

Bunhill Fields Burial Ground

Blake’s resting place 10 D1

City Road & Bunhill Row, EC1 • 020 7374 4127 Open 7:30am–7pm Mon–Fri, 9:30–sunset Sat & Sun (4pm closing Oct–Mar)

Close to the Barbican and a short walk from the buzz of Hoxton, Bunhill Fields is a remarkably quiet and shady spot. A pathway cuts through its little wooded burial ground, where the tombs of writers William Blake, Daniel Defoe and John Bunyan take pride of place. To the side of the graves is a glade-like lawn – a magical place to stretch out on a summer’s day and listen to the birdsong.

St Olave’s Recitals

a melodious hour

11 E3

Hart Street, EC3 • 020 7488 4318 Recitals Wed & Thu 1–2pm; donations welcome

Sitting in the cool of a stone church and listening to one of St Olave’s free lunchtime recitals is a splendid way to relax into a contemplative mood. London’s 17th-century diarist Samuel Pepys cherished St Olave’s, though he often slept through sermons. There’s a pretty little churchyard at the Seething Lane entrance.

The Royal Parks There are nine Royal Parks in all, some of them far from the city centre, in places such as Richmond and Greenwich (see p174). Of the central parks St James’s is the oldest, and is considered by many to be the most elegant. It separates Crown (Buckingham Palace) and State (the Houses of Parliament) with a swathe of grassland and a lake fringed by languid

willows. The biggest is Hyde Park, though technically its western end – where you’ll find the Serpentine Gallery (see p101) and the Orangery (see p170) – is Kensington Gardens. Regent’s Park has attractive formal gardens as well as wide open spaces, used to host open-air theatre and concerts. Both Hyde Park and Regent’s Park offer guided nature walks. For details, visit www.royalparks.gov.uk.

Bloomsbury contains some of London’s most attractive garden squares

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Havens Holland Park

6 D5

genteel charm

The former grounds of a Jacobean country house, Holland Park holds a variety of delights, including woodland walks, formal English gardens and a splendid French restaurant. The house itself stands at the centre of the park, but, never having recovered from bomb damage in World War II, it now serves mainly as a backdrop to outdoor performances on summer evenings. The outbuildings have fared better, with the Garden Ballroom now home to Marco Pierre White’s Belvedere restaurant (modestly priced for a set lunch). If your appetite or wallet are not up to that, look for the pleasant café offering simpler fare that has taken root next to one of the garden walls. The Rose Garden is perhaps the greatest sensorial delight of the formal gardens, while the Kyoto Garden, severe when laid out in 1991, has mellowed into a serene corner. The call of peacocks as they strut around their domain adds to the charm of the park.

Porchester Spa

Art Deco retreat

7 F3

Queensway, W2 • 020 7792 3980 Open 10am–10pm daily; call for details of men-only, women-only & mixed sessions

This beautiful Art Deco day spa of the 1920s is great value and attracts a complete mix of people. Enjoy a Swedish massage or Moroccan glove body scrub, along with unlimited access to Turkish baths, Russian steam rooms and an icy plunge pool. Snacks are served in the frigidarium (cool room) upstairs.

Orangery

antidote to museum fatigue

7 F5

Kensington Gardens, W8 • 020 7376 0239 Open Mar–Oct 10–6; Nov–Feb 10–5; tea served from 3pm

Set next to Kensington Palace, the graceful Orangery, dating from 1704, is a light-filled, yet cool retreat. Add to this the glorious gardens and the chance to enjoy a leisurely summer lunch or afternoon tea at this superior café, and you have ample reward for a morning spent shopping or in the museums of Kensington.

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www.elondon.dk.com

West Chelsea Physic Garden

herbal cures

14 B4

Swan Walk, SW3 • 020 7352 5646 www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk Open Apr–Oct: noon–5 Wed, 2–6 Sun & special events

A gateway bristling with knotted vegetation leads you into the secluded world of a garden in which the beauty and fragrance of the plants are matched by their restorative qualities. Established by the Society of Apothecaries in 1673, this was the herbal medicine cabinet of its day, and still operates as a research centre. Though dripping with blooms and bursting with verdant foliage, the World Medicine Garden and other areas retain a scientific orderliness, with small cards indicating the curative properties of each specimen. The pomegranate turns out to be quite a fruit – not only has it been used to purge envy, but it is also thought to be a reasonable cure for worms. Sit in one of the tranquil spots where chairs have been set, and you’ll soon appreciate the simpler restorative qualities of this unique English garden.

Little Venice

canal boats, cafés and bars

7 G1

Blomfield Road & Warwick Crescent, W2 Boat trips: London Waterbus Company, 020 7482 2660

Little Venice centres on the junction of two canals: Regent’s Canal, which links to the Thames, and the Grand Union, which extends all the way to Birmingham. Until relatively recently, this area was known as Browning’s Pool, in honour of the 19thcentury poet Robert Browning, who lived nearby. The tranquil waterways are a delightful city oasis, overlooked by Rembrandt Gardens, and dotted with colourful houseboats, barges and pleasure craft. Locals sit and gaze at the scene, while boat owners potter about their cheerily decorated vessels. The neighbourhood has several nice eateries. One of the best is The Bridge House Canal Theatre Café on Delamere Terrace. This serves tasty food, and there’s also live comedy, music and theatre upstairs. You can also board a ferry at Little Venice, and take a 50-minute trip through Regent’s Park to Camden. For some ideas for a leisurely breakfast in Little Venice, see p12

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Havens

Hampstead Heath

ancient heathland

1 C2

This vast, elevated expanse of grassy slopes and woodlands, bordered on all sides by North London’s wealthiest residential districts, is a magnificent remnant of real countryside within walking distance of the Tube. Londoners travel up here – in droves on Sundays – to gaze down upon their city, breathe deep and shake off urban stresses. For a satisfying exploration of the Heath, try a circular walk from Hampstead village. Starting at the Tube station, wander through the quiet back roads past historic houses where luminaries such as John Keats (see p108), George Orwell and H G Wells once lived. Crossing East Heath Road, you then step into the wilds, initially following a wide track through the woods. The destinations of the many crisscrossing paths are not easy to fathom, and it’s best to

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meander in a vaguely northeasterly direction, through woodlands up to Kenwood House (see p108), home to the Iveagh Bequest, with a café in the old coach house. Just beyond the house, in the direction of Highgate, are fantastic views. From these lofty heights, central London unfolds in a smoky blue haze along the shallow valley of the Thames, the distant towers and construction cranes of the City and Docklands contrasting with the slope of long grass at your feet. Follow the path down the open slope and turn right at the bottom of South Wood, which forms the boundary of the Kenwood estate. From here, the path will take you back to Hampstead, past playing fields and old duelling grounds. Return to the welcoming pubs of Hampstead – The Freemason’s Arms (Downshire Hill), The Flask (Flask Lane), Ye Olde White Bear (Well Road) and the Holly Bush (Holly Bush Steps).

Find out about events taking place in London’s parks via

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North Highgate Woods

woodland ramble

A short walk up Muswell Hill Road from Highgate Tube station brings the woods into view: to your left, Highgate Wood proper; to your right, the dell of Queen’s Wood. Both are rich in oak and hornbeam and the sound of birdsong – about 70 species of birds have been spotted here. Either wood is blissful for an hour or so of rambling on footpaths. Highgate Wood is more open, the wide paths eventually giving way to a playing field and the pleasant Oshobasho Café (open 8:30am–6pm or dusk if earlier). The more densely forested Queen’s Wood has a Weekend Café (10–6 Sat & Sun), charmingly set amid the trees in a cottage with a verandah. Having cleared mind and lungs, reintroduce yourself to city life gradually by way of Highgate Village. Drop by the Flask (corner of The Grove and Highgate West Hill), which serves English ales and Belgian monastery brews, and good pub food. Also pay a visit to Highgate Cemetery (see p105), off Swain’s Lane.

Abney Park Cemetery

graveyard for dissenters

Stoke Newington Church Street, N16 • £ Stoke Newington 1 Angel or King’s Cross, then bus 73 www.abney-park.org.uk Open daylight hours daily

Neglected for much of the 20th century, Abney Park is a gothic fantasy – gravestones broken and scattered, statues toppled and overrun with ivy, and green tendrils grasping to reclaim the ground. This natural tide has been only partially stemmed by recent interventions to clear pathways, and it remains a wild and enchanting woodland. Among the religious nonconformists buried here the most famous is William Booth, founder of the Salvation Army. The main entrance, with its dramatic Egyptian gateway, is on Stamford Hill, but the more secretive way in is via a small gate on Church Street. The inner reaches – where you’ll eventually reach a decrepit chapel – can feel very remote, and if you are visiting alone you may feel safer at the weekend, when it becomes the haunt of local families. After visiting Abney Park, wander along Church Street, which has good boutiques, bookshops and pubs

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Havens Greenwich Park

panoramic views

16 C3

Greenwich, SE10 • Park Office: 020 8858 2608 www.royalparks.gov.uk/parks/greenwich_park Open from 6am daily

A walk around this breezy, partly formal, partly wild park, which stretches from the historic dockyards at Greenwich up the hill to Blackheath, offers fine views of London. From the top of the park, you can see the Thames wend through the metropolis, its banks giving rise to some of the densest clusters of development at Docklands, The City and Westminster. Between the moored Cutty Sark at Greenwich Pier and Wren’s Old Observatory at the top of the hill, the park’s main paths are usually thronged with visitors, but stray from them and you can soon lose the crowds. Beyond the Observatory, heading south, you’ll find a cricket green, the wilds of a deer park,

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formal gardens and even Roman earthworks to explore. But if you don’t want to lose sight of the river, head east to another promontory, One Tree Hill, on the Maze Hill side of the park. From here, there are views across to the Observatory and down to the Old Royal Naval College (the Queens House, see p112, is mostly obscured by a clump of trees at the foot of the hill). Beyond this looms Canary Wharf, the brown, silty Thames looping at its feet. Walk down one of the meandering pathways, past the children’s playground and then towards a gate that brings you out onto Park Row. You can either head to the Thames end of the road for a drink and a plate of whitebait at the Trafalgar Tavern (see p155) or take an immediate right for a quieter drink at The Plume of Feathers. Either way, it’s good to finish off a walk in Greenwich with a riverside stroll back to the pier.

www.elondon.dk.com

South

Kew Gardens

World Heritage beauty spot

Kew • 020 8332 5655 • 1 £ Kew Gardens www.kew.org Open from 9:30am (closing times vary)

The extensive, astonishingly lovely Royal Botanical Gardens are stocked with mature specimens of rare (and ordinary) trees, plants and flowers collected over hundreds of years from the remotest corners of the world. From the Tube and train station it’s a wellsigned 5-minute walk along leafy residential streets to the main, Victoria Park entrance. Maps, supplied with your tickets, place everything clearly. The scale of Kew means that it is not difficult to find private space. The gardens comprise both wild and formal areas – gentle woodlands; pristine formal lawns and beds overflowing with ever-changing floral displays; ornamental lakes stocked with wildfowl; elegant glass-houses; and an eclectic collection of buildings including the landmark Pagoda.

Near the entrance, the beautiful, steamy Palm House (1848) is popular, but you can ascend a spiral staircase to the quieter elevated walkway. The Princess of Wales Conservatory, a mix of dry and moist habitats, also draws a crowd, but is worth a saunter in May during the orchid festival. Queen Charlotte’s Cottage dates from the 18th century and was a favourite spot of this queen. She and husband King George III would picnic here. It remains a perfect idyll for a lazy afternoon munching sandwiches. If you are lucky, you may be serenaded by a blackbird from the branches of a silver birch. If you’ve neglected to bring a picnic, the Orangery is the best of several eating options, serving simple meals and cakes. Between the Orangery and the river is the formal Queen’s Garden – a place where statues punctuate walls of manicured hedges, laburnum drips from covered walkways and small fountains bubble. Adm

In Kew, consider a meal at the expensive but excellent Glasshouse (020 8940 6777) by the station

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hotels In this eclectic city, your choice of accommodation sets the tone for your visit. Would you like a classy residence in Chelsea, close to the boutiques? Or is high-voltage Covent Garden, right in the centre, more your style? Perhaps you’d like to sample the edgy glamour of Notting Hill or the laid-back cool of Clerkenwell. Hotel rates are quite high, but there’s memorable accommodation for all budgets.

TOP CHOICES –

hotels

ROMANTIC HIDEAWAYS

SPAS & SPORTS

GASTRONOMIC

Blakes

The Dorchester

Claridge’s

33 Roland Gardens, SW7

Park Lane, W1

Brook Street, W1

Blakes’ sumptuous rooms are perfect for lounging and loving. Wedding packages are available if you want to take things further. (See p185)

The impressive Art Deco spa at this superbly appointed hotel offers a range of luxurious treatments and a well-equipped gym. (See p183)

Claridge’s has the best hotel restaurant in town. Celebrated chef Gordon Ramsay serves up the Michelin-starred nosh. (See p183)

Hamilton House

Crescent Hotel

14 West Grove, Greenwich, SE10

49–50 Cartwright Gardens, WC1

The pretty honeymoon suite in this Georgian house has breathtaking views of the Thames snaking past Greenwich. (See p189)

Guests have access to the tennis courts opposite, and can even borrow racquets. (See p181)

The Portobello Hotel

One Aldwych

22 Stanley Gardens, W11

1 Adlwych, WC2

Luxurious furnishings include round beds, Moroccan cushions and a Victorian claw-foot tub right in the middle of the room... (See p186)

Underwater music plays through the hotel’s 18-m (60-ft) pool. There’s also high-tech equipment and free personal training in the gym. (See p180)

Prices quoted for hotels in London may or may not include VAT (17.5% tax), so always check when getting a quote.

London Bridge Hotel

Great Eastern Hotel

8–18 London Bridge Street, SE1

Liverpool Street, EC2

Free entry to the adjoining gym is among the facilities here. You could also just as easily go for a jog by the river. (See p189)

Design guru and restaurateur Terence Conran has installed five fabulous eateries at this hotel. Aurora is best of the lot. (See p187)

If you are flexible about the dates of your stay, www.hoteldirect.co.uk/london offers a quick and easy way to find some of the best discounts on rooms in London’s hotels.

Miller’s Residence

The Metropolitan

111a Westbourne Grove, W2

It may not be part of the hotel itself, but acclaimed modern Japanese restaurant Nobu sits atop the cool and stylish Metropolitan. (See p182)

A precious find, this atmospheric, antiques-crammed guesthouse is lit by candles after dark. (See p186)

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For online services that book hotels at all prices, see

www.elondon.dk.com

TOP CHOICES – STYLE STATEMENTS

BEST OF THE BARGAINS

hotels

VIEWS & LOCALES

Hazlitt’s

Covent Garden Hotel

6 Frith Street, W1

10 Monmouth Street, WC2

Hazlitt’s is true to its period heritage, right down to the paint colours, carved bedsteads and oldfashioned WCs. (See p181)

In the middle of Covent Garden, this hotel can’t be beaten when it comes to combining style and a central location. (See p180)

Malmaison

The Franklin

Charterhouse Square, EC1

Contemporary furnishings and specially commissioned photographs set the style for this chic yet affordable small chain hotel. (See p187)

28 Egerton Gardens, SW3 If you are looking for an alternative to a hotel, www.yourstay.com/london offers well-appointed apartments for short-term rental.

Reserve a room at the back of this Knightsbridge townhouse hotel to overlook the tranquil, residents-only gardens. (See p184)

Abbey House

Travel Inn, County Hall

Holiday Inn Express, Old Street

11 Vicarage Gate, W8

Belvedere Road, SE1

275 Old Street, EC1

Comfortable, Victorian-style rooms are the defining feature of an elegant address. Shared facilities keep the prices down. (See p186)

Reliable chain accommodation is brought to a fantastic location here, just steps away from the London Eye and Saatchi Gallery. (See p189)

In hip Hoxton, this is the perfect base if you intend spending your days bar- and gallery-hopping, and your nights in the clubs. (See p189)

The Zetter

Dover Hotel

86–8 Clerkenwell Road, EC1

42–4 Belgrave Road, SW1

This loft hotel, converted from a warehouse, is decked out with 70s furniture, hand-printed panels and top-notch showers. (See p188)

It’s seriously cheap, but the Dover has satellite TV and modern ensuite facilities in every room. (See p183)

www.hotels-london.co.uk is an online booking agency that also has lists of useful web links, last-minute deals and special offers.

Many London hotels that cater mainly to business travellers offer good weekend deals

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Hotels

One Aldwych

contemporary grand hotel

9 H3

1 Aldwych, WC2 • 020 7300 1000 www.onealdwych.co.uk

The neo-grand design of this hotel became an instant hit with the style-conscious when it opened in the late 1990s. Occupying a former newspaper HQ on one corner of the Aldwych, it gives monumental elegance a modern edge. Staff wear lavender shirts designed by cool Savile Row tailor Richard James, and the walls are adorned with 350 original works of art. The rooms are surprisingly quiet, given the hotel’s central position. Their styling is contemporary yet colourful,

Covent Garden Hotel

theatreland retreat

with silk drapes and plush upholstery. The suites at the front of the building, under a coppered cupola, are circular. Every detail has been considered: flowers are changed daily, and the terrazzo-stone bathrooms have heated floors and mini TVs. The health club surpasses most hotel gyms, with personal trainers on call and a pool with underwater music. The Lobby Bar (see p136), with its high ceiling, arched windows and dramatic sculptures, is always lively. There are two well-regarded restaurants, Axis and the less formal Indigo (both modern European cuisine), and a chic coffee bar. Expensive

9 F3

10 Monmouth Street, WC2 • 020 7806 1000 www.firmdalehotels.com

Its location in London’s Theatreland makes this cosy hotel a favourite with actors and others in the film and performing arts industries. The luxurious screening room gets plenty of use. Rooms are individually decorated in updated English style, one with a vast four-poster bed. Expensive

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Check out the best deals and reserve a room via

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Centre Hazlitt’s

authentic period hotel

9 F3

6 Frith Street, W1 • 020 7434 1771 www.hazlittshotel.com

The Soho home of 18th-century essayist William Hazlitt is true to its heritage while providing 21st-century comforts. The panelled rooms contain fireplaces, antique headboards and rolltop baths, yet there’s also air-conditioning and Internet access. The drawing room has books signed by literary guests. Expensive

Charlotte Street Hotel

artistic digs

9 E2

15 Charlotte Street, W1 • 020 7806 2000 www.charlottestreethotel.com

Set amid Charlotte Street’s eclectic restaurants, this understated hotel combines original works by “Bloomsbury set” artists, reflecting the legacy of its location, with modern gadgets such as mini TVs in the luxurious granite bathrooms. The bar buzzes with media folk, and there’s a swanky screening room. Expensive

Crescent Hotel

tidy guesthouse

3 F5

49–50 Cartwright Gardens, WC1 • 020 7387 1515 www.CrescentHotelofLondon.com

The best of several small hotels occupying a Georgian crescent near University College, the Crescent is smart and well kept. There are TVs in the bedrooms, a guests’ lounge and a cheerful breakfast room with a characterful old cast-iron cooker. Guests may use the tennis courts in the garden opposite. Cheap

Generator

futuristic budget hotel

3 G5

Compton Place, off Tavistock Place, WC1 • 020 7388 7666 www.generatorhostels.com

London’s biggest backpackers’ hostel is decked out in stainless steel and neon. Accommodation is nofrills: bed down in a communal dorm or pay a little more for a private room. However, with a bar open until 2am, karaoke and a 24-hour Internet café, the young guests aren’t here just to rest. Cheap Expensive: over £200 for a double room per night; moderate: £120–200; cheap: £10–120

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Hotels

The Metropolitan

cool & contemporary

8 C5

Old Park Lane, W1 • 020 7447 1000 www.metropolitan.como.bz

This minimalist upstart caused a stir when it joined the luxury line-up overlooking Hyde Park in 1997; it was the first new hotel to open on Park Lane for two decades. Its understated chic hasn’t dated a bit. Armani-clad staff waft around the cream lobby, with its 1930s-inspired club chairs. Rooms are contemporary yet comfortable, with blond-wood furniture, harmonious pale fabrics, and plenty of light (London weather permitting) streaming through the plate-glass

Durrants

authentic Georgian pile

windows. The Metropolitan has all the amenities you would expect from a top-class hotel – glamorous marble bathrooms, Internet access, CD players, DVDs on request – plus some fabulous “extras” that make it a bit more special. The health club offers holistic treatments using the natural COMO Shambhala products devised at the hotel’s Caribbean sister resort. As a guest, you’re assured entry to the tiny members-only Met Bar – a notorious celebrity hotspot in the 1990s, which still draws a cool clientele. The Michelin-starred modern Japanese restaurant Nobu (see p34) is literally on your doorstep. Expensive

8 B2

George Street, W1 • 020 7935 8131 www.durrantshotel.co.uk

Established in 1790, Durrants, in trendy Marylebone, is appealingly old-fashioned. The hotel has a warren of rooms spread across several terraced houses. Antiques and old prints feature heavily. Bathrooms, thankfully, are comfortably modern. The restaurant and bar have the air of a gentlemen’s club. Moderate

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www.elondon.dk.com

Centre Dorset Square

English country chic

8 B1

39 Dorset Square, NW1 • 020 7723 7874 www.dorsetsquare.co.uk

Overlooking a lovely garden square – the site of the world’s first cricket ground – this sprawling Regency house has a rustic feel, with distressed wood, floral fabrics and a cosy drawing room. The restaurant serves modern European cuisine. Marylebone Village and Regent’s Park are a stroll away. Expensive

Dover Hotel

well-maintained modern B&B

15 E3

42–4 Belgrave Road, SW1 • 020 7821 9085 www.dover-hotel.co.uk

Just up the road from Victoria Station and well placed for the pubs and cafés of Pimlico, this welcoming B&B in a grand stucco-fronted terrace offers an ensuite shower, WC and satellite TV in every room. It may not be fancy, but its rooms are refreshingly modern and immaculately clean. Cheap

Tophams Belgravia

essentially English

14 D2

28 Ebury Street, SW1 • 020 7730 8147 www.zolahotels.com

The hotel, previously owned by the Topham family for over 60 years, occupies five 19th-century houses in an upmarket Belgravia street. In terms of decor, it’s like staying with an elderly aunt (think chintz and china cabinets), but it’s cosy and characterful, and has an elegant restaurant. Moderate

Grand Old Dames Just off smart shopping strip Bond Street, Claridge’s has long been favoured by European royalty, and now lures gourmets with Michelinstarred chef Gordon Ramsay’s eponymous restaurant. Opened in 1889 to accommodate theatre-goers, The Savoy, on the Strand, has numerous show business connections, and its

legendary American Bar (see p137) was the birthplace of the dry Martini. For unashamed indulgence, the grandiose Dorchester overlooking Hyde Park boasts an Art Deco spa and nearly three staff to every guest room. Rooms at the Ritz, on Piccadilly, are sumptuous in Louis XVI style. Its 1930s Rivoli Bar has been splendidly restored. For details of all hotels, see p229.

Our price categories are based on hotel “rack” rates, but big discounts are frequently available

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Hotels City Inn Westminster

unpretentious

15 F3

30 John Islip Street, SW1 • 020 7630 1000 www.cityinn.com

Around the corner from Tate Britain and handy Millbank Pier (see p99), this slick, design-conscious newcomer is part of a small chain. It offers many of the facilities of a luxury hotel – DVD players, broadband Internet, bathrobes – without any attitude. Deals on the website make it even more of a bargain. Moderate

The Franklin

understated English townhouse 14 A2

28 Egerton Gardens, SW3 • 020 7584 5533 www.franklinhotel.co.uk

Located in a quiet Knightsbridge street, the Franklin offers an opportunity to see how the other half lives. It’s like staying in the private home of an affluent family, complete with framed portraits, antiques, fine English fabrics and secluded residents’ gardens at the back. Moderate

Mayflower

affordable “boutique” style

13 E3

26–8 Trebovir Road, SW5 • 020 7370 0991 www.mayflowerhotel.co.uk

This affordable gem, in a grand terrace in busy Earl’s Court, has recently been refurbished. Now each room has its own style, which might be contemporary, antique or slightly Oriental. Touches of luxury include marble bathrooms and balconies off some rooms. Cheap

Five Sumner Place

spacious & attractive 13 H3

5 Sumner Place, SW7 • 020 7584 7586 www.sumnerplace.com

Set in a white stuccoed terrace, this immaculately maintained hotel is well placed for the museums and shops of South Kensington. Although decorated in an unremarkable traditional English style, the rooms are comfortable, and large by London standards. Breakfast is served in a pretty conservatory. Moderate

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Centre & West

Blakes

sumptuous designer hideaway

13 G3

33 Roland Gardens, SW7 • 020 7370 6701 www.blakeshotels.com

Opened in the early 1980s by socialite designer Anouska Hempel, Blakes is London’s original boutique hotel. Its effortless sense of style and discreet Kensington location have attracted the rich and famous from the beginning. In contrast to Hempel’s homage to minimalism in her eponymous hotel, The Hempel, Blakes is a riot of beautiful furniture and curios; a living textbook for designers and aficionados of interiors, packing in a

wide array of styles. The lobby has a colonial air, with bamboo furniture, antique birdcages and vintage Louis Vuitton trunks. The individually designed bedrooms, with sweeping draperies and exceptional items of antique furniture and artifacts – many of which were acquired by Hempel on her travels – range in theme from opulent Oriental to Baroque Italian. The restaurant is in the basement, its cuisine a blend of East and West. Adjoining it are Blakes Bar and the Chinese Room – a dark, mysterious lounge, dressed with an elaborate screen, banquettes and cushions. Expensive

The Colonnade

informal grand house

7 F1

2 Warrington Crescent, W9 • 020 7286 1052 www.theetoncollection.com

There’s an air of posh informality about this hotel, which comprises two Victorian mansions near Little Venice (see p171). Open since the 1930s, it’s been extensively refurbished. Most rooms are comfortably opulent, some with four-poster beds. The sea-themed “Cabin” has a bunk bed and portholes. Moderate

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Hotels The Portobello

divinely decadent

6 D3

22 Stanley Gardens, W11 • 020 7727 2777 www.portobello-hotel.co.uk

Join the list of rock and film stars who have stayed at this over-the-top Notting Hill townhouse. Many rooms are themed – Moroccan, Japanese, Colonial – with exciting features such as round or four-poster beds and Victorian bathtubs (Alice Cooper kept his boa constrictor in one). Moderate

Miller’s Residence

unusual guesthouse

7 E3

111a Westbourne Grove, W2 • 020 7243 1024 www.millersuk.com

A discreet entrance off busy Westbourne Grove leads to one of London’s most atmospheric hotels. Owned by antiques expert Martin Miller, it’s crammed with bric-a-brac and unusual pieces. There’s a free bar and snacks are available in the cluttered drawing room, which is candlelit at night. Moderate

Abbey House

superior B&B

7 E5

11 Vicarage Gate, W8 • 020 7727 2594 www.abbeyhousekensington.com

This friendly B&B in a grand Victorian house near Kensington High Street has been owned by the same family for 25 years. It is refurbished annually and offers spotlessly clean, comfortable accommodation with shared facilities. All rooms have orthopaedic mattresses and colour TVs. Cheap

Booking a Hotel Book as far as possible in advance for the best rates and widest choice. Special deals often feature on hotel websites and sites of the many Internet-based agencies. Try www.visitlondon.com – the website of the official tourist board – which has reviews, discounted rates and links to dozens of London hotels. The British Hotel Reservation Centre

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operates a 24-hour booking service by phone (020 7340 1616) and online (www.bhrc.co.uk). The agency www.pinkhotels.com specializes in finding rooms at gay- and lesbian-friendly hotels. Always check the booking details. Many hotels do not include VAT (17.5%) in the quotation, but add it to the final bill. Some quotes are per person, others are per room. Check, too, whether breakfast is included.

To find a room at the last minute, turn to

www.elondon.dk.com

West, City & East

Great Eastern

Conran-styled grand hotel

11 E2

Liverpool Street, EC2 • 020 7618 5000 www.great-eastern-hotel.co.uk

Built in the golden age of rail travel, the magnificent 19th-century hotel next to Liverpool Street station was recently given a makeover by the Conran Group – the design consultancy of style guru Terence Conran. The result is a dramatic marriage of Victorian grandeur (marble staircases, soaring ceilings, ornate plasterwork) with 21st-century design (contemporary colour schemes, modern furniture, high-tech facilities). Exciting works of contemporary art are displayed throughout, some on loan from nearby

Malmaison

French-inspired mini-chain

Whitechapel Gallery. The Conran aesthetic runs to the bedrooms, which are furnished with his own designs and original pieces by Eames and Arne Jacobson. Black-and-white tiled bathrooms come complete with natural Ren products, and all the requisite high-tech business facilities are available. The well-equipped gym is set in a former Masonic temple. With his restaurateur’s hat on, Conran has also made this a serious dining destination. There are no fewer than five eateries, the best of which is the glamorous Aurora, with a stunning original stained-glass ceiling dome. The modern brasserie Terminus is a less formal place – noisy, vibrant and fun. Expensive

10 B1

Charterhouse Square, EC1 • 020 7012 3700 www.malmaison.com

This converted Victorian nurses’ residence maintains its reputation for contemporary luxury at a great price. CD players and minibars stocked with French wines come as standard in the chic, spacious rooms. A buzzing brasserie and bar and high-tech gym complete the thoroughly modern package. Moderate

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Hotels The Zetter

eclectic loft style

10 B1

86–8 Clerkenwell Road, EC1 • 020 7324 4444 www.thezetter.com

Clerkenwell is an area known for its cool loft apartments, and it now has a loft hotel. Converted from a 19th-century warehouse, the Zetter has five floors set around a central atrium, and rooms featuring huge factory windows and exposed brick. The décor is an eclectic mix: reconditioned 1970s furniture, handprinted panels, slick modern elements such as stateof-the-art showers, and cosy touches such as hotwater bottles. Old Penguin paperbacks and free copies of Time Out provide inspiring bedtime reading. Instead of minibars, vending machines on each floor dispense everything from toothpaste to champagne; just insert your room card and the charge is put on the tab. The top-floor studios have sundecks with views across the city. The hotel’s modern Italian restaurant, with tables on St John’s Square in summer, is a destination in its own right. Moderate

The Rookery

historic hideaway

10 B1

Peter’s Lane, Cowcross Street, EC1 • 020 7336 0931 www.rookeryhotel.com

The Clerkenwell sister of Hazlitt’s (see p181) occupies six Georgian houses and shops (faded butcher’s and baker’s signs are still visible). Decorated with quirky antiques, it retains many original features, such as flagstone floors in the hall and ceiling beams in some bedrooms, while offering all mod cons. Expensive

La Gaffe

unpretentious Hampstead hotel

1 A4

107–11 Heath Street, NW3 • 020 7435 8965/4941 www.lagaffe.co.uk

Set above an Italian restaurant amid Hampstead’s winding lanes and quaint cottages, this small, familyrun hotel is very reasonably priced. It’s style isn’t much to speak of – more provincial B&B than smart hotel – but La Gaffe is handy for the local boutiques and, of course, the Heath (see p172). Cheap

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www.elondon.dk.com

City & East, North & South London Bridge Hotel

10 D5

8–18 London Bridge Street, SE1 • 020 7855 2200 www.londonbridgehotel.com

Close to Borough Market (see p163), this hotel has comfortable, if somewhat corporate-style, accommodation. “Executive” rooms are better, with more contemporary fittings. Guests can enjoy free entry to the adjoining Fitness First health club, and there’s a decent Malaysian restaurant in-house. Moderate

Mercure London City Bankside modern Euro-style chain

10 B4

77–9 Southwark Street, SE1 • 020 7902 0800 www.mercure.com

This spare, modern hotel is geared mainly towards business travellers, but cheap weekend deals and its position near the Tate Modern and South Bank make it attractive to tourists. There’s a small gym, and a stylish restaurant with an extensive wine list. Moderate

Hamilton House

elegant village retreat

16 C4

14 West Grove, Greenwich, SE10 • 020 8694 9899 www.hamiltonhousehotel.co.uk

Nautical buffs will delight in the seafaring pedigree of this Georgian house overlooking Blackheath – handy for Greenwich Park and its various historical sites. The décor makes use of pale colours and antiqueeffect bedspreads. Some rooms have breathtaking views of the Thames. Moderate

Chains If you’re after budget accommodation, it’s worth considering a chain hotel: the rooms may be bland, but there won’t be any nasty surprises, and, increasingly, you can stay in some of London’s hottest areas. Holiday Inn (www.holiday-inn.com) has an affordable Express branch amid the hip bars of Hoxton (275 Old St, EC1). An outpost of cheap

chain Travel Inn (www.travelinn.co.uk) is housed in the former County Hall – steps away from the London Eye and South Bank complex. For river views, however, you’ll have to stay at the pricier Marriott (www.marriott.com), which shares the building. More upmarket is the London Docklands Hilton (www.hilton.com), which has a pool, river views from some rooms and cheap special offers.

189

London Street Finder Almost every listing in this guide includes a boxed page and grid reference to the maps in this section. The few entries that fall outside the area covered by these maps give transport details instead. The main map below shows the division of the Street Finder, along with postcodes.

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E

Index of Main Streets Albert Embankment Aldersgate Aldgate High Street Aldwych All Saints Road Baker Street Basil Street Bateman Street Bayswater Road Bayswater Road Beak Street Beauchamp Place Bedford Street Belgrave Road Belgrave Square Berkeley Square Berwick Street Bethnal Green Road Bishopsgate Blackfriars Road Bloomsbury Square Bloomsbury Street Borough High Street Bow Street Brewer Street Brick Lane Broadway Broadwick Street Brompton Road Buckingham Gate Buckingham Palace Road Burlington Arcade Caledonian Road Cambridge Circus Cambridge Heath Road Camden High Street Camden Passage Camden Road Cannon Street Canonbury Road Carnaby Street Catton Street Cavendish Square Caxton Street Cecil Court Chalk Farm Road Chancery Lane Chapel Market Charing Cross Road Charlotte Road Charlotte Street Chelsea Bridge Road Chelsea Embankment Cheshire Street Church Street City Road Clerkenwell Green Clerkenwell Road Cleveland Street Columbia Road Commercial Street Conduit Street Covent Garden Coventry Street Creechurch Lane Cromwell Gardens Cromwell Road Cross Street Curtain Road

15 G3 10 C2 11 F3 9 H3 6 D2 8 B2 14 B1 9 F3 7 F4 8 A3 9 E3 14 A1 9 G3 15 E3 14 C1 8 D4 9 E3 5 F5 11 E2 10 B4 9 G2 9 F2 10 C5 9 G3 9 E3 11 F1 15 F1 9 E3 14 A1 15 E1 14 D3 9 E4 3 H2 9 F3 5 H3 2 D3 4 B3 3 E1 10 C3 4 B2 9 E3 9 G2 8 D2 15 E1 9 F3 2 C1 10 A2 4 A3 9 F3 5 E5 9 E2 14 C3 14 A5 5 F5 7 H1 4 B4 10 A1 10 B1 8 D1 5 F4 11 E1 8 D3 9 G3 9 F4 11 E3 13 H2 13 F2 4 B2 5 E5

Curzon Street Dean Street Delancey Street Downing Street Downshire Hill Draycott Avenue Drury Lane Earlham Street Earls Court Road Eaton Square Edgware Road Endell Street Essex Road Euston Road Exhibition Road Exmouth Market Farringdon Road Farringdon Street Fenchurch Street Fetter Lane Fleet Street Floral Street Foubert’s Place Frith Street Fulham Palace Road Fulham Road Gabriel’s Wharf Garrick Street Gerrard Street Gloucester Place Gloucester Road Golborne Road Goodge Street Goswell Road Goulston Street Gower Street Gray’s Inn Road Great Eastern Street Great Marlborough Street Great Portland Street Great Russell Street Greek Street Greenwich Church Street Greenwich High Road Grosvenor Place Grosvenor Square Hackney Road Hampstead High Street Hampstead Road Hans Crescent Hanway Street Harley Street Harrow Road Hatton Gardens Haymarket Heath Street High Holborn Holborn Horseferry Road Houndsditch Hoxton Square Hoxton Street Islington High Street James Street Jermyn Street Kensington Church Street Kensington High Street Kensington Park Road Kensington Road

8 D4 9 F3 2 D3 9 F5 1 C5 14 A3 9 G3 9 F3 13 E2 14 C2 7 H1 9 G2 4 B2 3 E5 13 H1 4 A5 10 A1 10 B2 11 E3 10 A2 10 A3 9 G3 9 E3 9 F3 12 A4 13 G4 10 A4 9 G3 9 F3 8 B2 13 G1 6 C2 9 E2 4 B4 11 F2 9 E1 3 G4 5 E5 9 E3 8 D1 9 F2 9 F3 16 B2 16 A3 14 C1 8 C3 5 F4 1 B5 3 E4 14 B1 9 F2 8 C1 7 E1 10 A1 9 F4 1 A4 9 H2 10 A2 15 F2 11 E2 5 E5 5 E4 4 A3 8 C3 9 E4 7 E4 13 E1 6 D3 13 G1

Kentish Town Road King’s Cross Road King’s Road Kingsland Road Kingsway Knightsbridge Ladbroke Grove Lambeth Palace Road Leadenhall Street Leather Lane Ledbury Road Leicester Square Leonard Street Lexington Street Lillie Road Lincoln’s Inn Fields Lisle Street Lisson Grove Liverpool Road Lombard Street Long Acre Maiden Lane Mandeville Place Marble Arch Mare Street Marsham Street Marylebone High Street Marylebone Road Middlesex Street Millbank Monmouth Street Moorgate Museum Street Neal Street Neal’s Yard Nelson Road New Bond Street New End New Row Northumberland Avenue Notting Hill Gate Nottingham Place Oakley Street Old Brompton Road Old Castle Street Old Compton Street Old Street Oxford Street Paddington Street Pall Mall Park Lane Parkway Parliament Square Pavilion Road Pelham Street Pembridge Road Pentonville Road Petticoat Lane Piccadilly Piccadilly Circus Pont Street Portland Place Portobello Road Praed Street Prince Albert Road Queen Victoria Street Queen’s Walk Queensway Rathbone Place

2 D2 3 H4 14 B3 5 E4 9 H2 8 B5 6 D4 15 H1 11 E3 10 A1 6 D3 9 F4 4 D5 9 E3 13 E4 9 H2 9 F3 8 A1 4 A3 10 D3 9 F3 9 G3 8 C2 8 B3 5 H3 15 F2 8 C1 8 A1 11 E2 15 G3 9 F3 10 D2 9 G2 9 G3 9 G3 16 B2 8 D3 1 B4 9 G3 9 G4 7 E4 8 C1 14 A4 13 G3 11 F2 9 F3 4 D5 8 D3 8 C1 9 E5 8 C4 2 D3 15 G1 14 B2 13 H2 7 E4 3 H4 11 F2 9 E4 9 E4 14 B2 8 D1 6 C2 7 H2 2 B3 10 C3 10 A4 7 F3 9 E2

Red Lion Street Regent Street Regent’s Park Road Rivington Street Rosebery Avenue Royal Hospital Road Rupert Street St Christopher’s Place St James’s Street St James’s Square St John Street St Martin’s Lane St Martin’s Place St Paul’s Churchyard St Thomas Street Savile Row Sclater Street Seymour Street Shaftesbury Avenue Shelton Street Shepherd Market Shepherd Street Shoreditch High Street Shorts Gardens Sloane Avenue Sloane Square Sloane Street Soho Square South Molton Street Southampton Row Southampton Street Southwark Bridge Road Southwark Street Stamford Street Stockwell Street Strand Sussex Gardens Sydney Street Tabernacle Street Talbot Road Thayer Street The Cut The Mall Theobald’s Road Thurloe Place Tottenham Court Road Tower Bridge Road Tower Hill Trafalgar Square Union Street Upper Street Vauxhall Bridge Road Victoria Embankment Victoria Street Villiers Street Walton Street Wardour Street Warwick Road Waterloo Road Wellington Street Wentworth Street West Cromwell Road Westbourne Grove Westbourne Park Road Whitechapel High Street Whitechapel Road Whitehall Whitfield Street Wigmore Street

9 H1 9 E3 2 B2 5 E5 4 A5 14 B4 9 F3 8 C2 9 E4 9 E4 4 A4 9 F3 9 F4 10 B3 10 D5 9 E3 5 F5 8 B3 9 F3 9 G3 8 D4 8 D5 5 E5 9 G3 14 A3 14 B3 14 B2 9 F2 8 D3 9 G1 9 G3 10 C5 10 C5 10 A4 16 B2 9 G4 7 H3 13 H3 4 D5 6 D3 8 C2 10 A5 9 F5 9 G2 13 H2 9 F2 11 E5 11 F3 9 F4 10 C5 4 B1 15 E2 9 G4 15 E2 9 G4 14 A2 9 E3 13 E3 9 H4 9 G3 11 F2 12 D3 7 E3 6 D2 11 F2 11 G2 9 G5 9 E1 8 C2

209

Index by Area Rasa Samudra (p28) ££ 5 Charlotte street (Map 9 E1) Indian

Centre Restaurants

Sardo (p29) ££ 45 Grafton Way (Map 9 E1) Italian

Bloomsbury Busaba Eathai (see p222) Thai

Ceconni’s (p31) £££ 5A Burlington Gdns (Map 9 E4) Italian Kaya (p33) ££ 42 Albemarle Street (Map 8 D4) Korean

££

Holborn

Covent Garden Belgo (p43) ££ 50 Earlham Street (Map 9 F3) www.belgorestaurants.co.uk Belgian Hazuki (p31) ££ 43 Chandos Place (Map 9 G4) Japanese

Matsuri (p29) £££ 71 High Holborn (Map 9 H2) Japanese

Marylebone

Kiku (p33) £££ 17 Half Moon St (Map 8 D4) Japanese Mô (p34) £ 23 Heddon Street (Map 9 E3) North African

La Galette (p36) £ 56 Paddington St (Map 8 C1) French

Nobu (p34) £££ 19 Old Park Lane (Map 8 C5) Japanese

The Ivy (p34) 1 West Street (Map 9 F3) European

£££

Golden Hind (p34) £ 73 Marylebone La (Map 8 C2) British

Patara (p33) ££ 3 & 7 Maddox St (Map 8 D3) Thai

J Sheekey (p31) 28–32 St Martin’s Court (Map 9 F3) British

£££

Locanda Locatelli (p34) £££ 8 Seymour Street (Map 8 B3) Italian

Sketch (p34) £££ 9 Conduit Street (Map 8 D3) European

Original Tagines (p36) ££ 7A Dorset Street (Map 8 B2) African

Tamarind (p33) £££ 20 Queen Street (Map 8 D4) Indian

The Orrery (p35) 55 Marylebone High St (Map 8 C1) European

The Wolseley (p32) £££ 160 Piccadilly (Map 9 E4) European

Paul (p29) £ 20 Bedford Street (Map 9 G3) Café Rock & Sole Plaice (p29) £ 47 Endell Street (Map 9 G3) British Rules (p30) £££ 35 Maiden Lane (Map 9 G3) British Thyme (p25) £££ The Hospital, Endell St, WC2 (Map 9 G2) Modern European

Fitzrovia Eagle Bar Diner (p27) £ 3–5 Rathbone Place (Map 9 F2) North American

£££

Patogh (p37) £ 8 Crawford Place (Map 8 A2) Middle Eastern Phoenix Palace (p36) £ 3–5 Glentworth St (Map 8 B1) Chinese The Providores & Tapa Room (p35) 109 Marylebone High St (Map 8 C1) International

£££

Mayfair & St James’s

Soho Andrew Edmunds (p24) ££ 46 Lexington Street (Map 9 E3) European Bar Italia (pp19 & 158) 22 Frith Street (Map 9 F3) Café

£

££

Lindsay House (p26) £££ 21 Romily Street (Map 9 F3) British Mar i Terra (p24) 17 Air Street (Map 9 E3) Spanish

£

Masala Zone (see p221) Indian

£

Patisserie Valerie (p26) 44 Old Compton St (Map 9 F3) Café

£

Randall & Aubin (pp17 & 158) 14–16 Brewer St (Map 9 E3) Seafood Red Fort (p27) £££ 77 Dean Street (Map 9 F3) Indian Wagamama (see p221) Japanese

£

Wong Kei (p25) £ 41–3 Wardour St (Map 9 E3) Chinese

Westminster & Pimlico Cinnamon Club (p37) £££ Old Westminster Library Great Smith Street (Map 15 F1) Indian

Shopping Bloomsbury

Bodean’s (p24) ££ 10 Poland Street (Map 9 E3) North American Busaba Eathai (see p222) Thai

££

Fino (p28) ££ 33 Charlotte Street (Map 9 E2) Spanish

Al Sultan (p34) ££ 51–2 Hertford St (Map 8 C5) Middle Eastern

Café Emm (p25) 17 Frith Street (Map 9 F3) International

£

Hakkasan (p27) £££ 8 Hanway Place (Map 9 F2) Chinese

Al Waha (p43) ££ 75 Westbourne Grove (Map 7 E3) Middle Eastern

Donzoko (p24) 15 Kingly Street (Map 9 E3) Japanese

£

Navarro’s (p28) £ 67 Charlotte Street (Map 9 E1) Spanish

Le Caprice (p31) £££ Arlington Street (Map 9 E4) European

ECapital (p25) 8 Gerrard Street (Map 9 F3) Chinese

£

210

Itsu (see p221) Japanese

Contemporary Wardrobe (p63) The Horse Hospital Colonnade (Map 9 G1) Fashion James Smith & Sons (p63) 53 New Oxford St (Map 9 G2) Shoes & Accessories

Covent Garden

Click through to restaurant websites across London with

Agnès B (p60) Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Fashion Any Amount of Books (p65) 56 Charing Cross Road (Map 9 F3) Books

www.elondon.dk.com

Centre aQuaint (p61) 38 Monmouth St (Map 9 F3) Fashion

Maharishi (p60) 19a Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Fashion

Aram (p60) 110 Drury Lane (Map 9 G3) Interiors

Marchpane (p64) Cecil Court (Map 9 F3) Books

Blackwell’s (p65) 100 Charing Cross Road (Map 9 F3) Books

Neal’s Yard Dairy (p62) 17 Shorts Gardens (Map 9 G3) Food

Borders (p65) Charing Cross Road (Map 9 F3) Books Burro (p60) 29 Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Fashion Camper (p60) Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Fashion Coco de Mer (p61) 23 Monmouth St (Map 9 F3) Lingerie

Nigel Williams (p64) Cecil Court (Map 9 F3) Books Paul Smith (pp60 & 84) Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Fashion PJ Hilton (p64) Cecil Court (Map 9 F3) Books Poste Mistress (p61) 261–3 Monmouth St (Map 9 F3) Shoes & Accessories

Fitzrovia FCUK (p85) 396 Oxford Street (Map 9 E2) Fashion Topshop (p68) Oxford Circus (Map 9 D2) Fashion

Marylebone Anello & Davide (p72) 20–21 St Christoper’s Place (Map 8 C3) Shoes & Accessories Calmia (p73) 52–4 Marylebone High St (Map 8 C1) Health & Beauty Carluccio’s (p72) St Christopher’s Pl (Map 8 C3) Food Daunt Books (p74) 83 Marylebone High St (8 C1) Books

Diesel StyleLab (p60) Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Fashion

Ray’s Jazz (p65) Foyles Bookshop, Charing Cross Road (Map 9 F3) Music

Eatmyhandbagbitch (p64) 37 Drury Lane (Map 9 G3) Interiors

Shipley (p65) 70 Charing Cross Rd (Map 9 F3) Books

Forbidden Planet (p63) 179 Shaftesbury Ave (Map 9 F2) Books

Shipley Media (p65) 80 Charing Cross Rd (Map 9 F3) Books

Foyles (p65) Charing Cross Road (Map 9 F3) Books

Size? (p62) 17–19 Neal Street (Map 9 G3) Fashion

Gay’s the Word (p64) 66 Marchmont St (Map 3 G5) Books

Stage Door Prints (p64) 9 Cecil Court (Map 9 F3) Prints & Posters

Kiehl’s (p61) 29 Monmouth St (Map 9 F3) Health & Beauty

Storey’s (p64) 3 Cecil Court (Map 9 F3) Prints & Posters

Marimekko (p72) 16–17 St Christopher’s Place (Map 8 C3) Interiors

Kirk Originals (p60) 29 Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Shoes & Accessories

The Tintin Shop (p60) 34 Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Prints & Posters

Mint (p73) 70 Wigmore Street (Map 8 C2) Interiors

Koh Samui (p61) 65–7 Monmouth St (Map 9 F3) Fashion

Vertigo (p60) 22 Wellington St (Map 9 G3) Prints & Posters

Mulberry (p72) 11–12 Gees Court (Map 8 C3) Fashion

Magma (p62) 8 Earlham Street (Map 9 F3) Books

The Wild Bunch (p62) Earlham Street (Map 9 F3) Florist

Osprey (p72) St Christopher’s Pl (Map 8 C3) Shoes & Accessories

La Fromagerie (p74) 2–4 Moxton Street (Map 8 C2) Food John Lewis (p79) 278–306 Oxford St (Map 8 D3) www.johnlewis.com Department Store Madeleine Press (p74) 90 Marylebone High St (Map 8 C1) Fashion Margaret Howell (p72) 34 Wigmore Street (Map 8 C2) Fashion

Paul Rothe (p73) 35 Marylebone Lane (Map 8 C2) Food Selfridges (p71) 400 Oxford Street (Map 8 C3) Department Store Sixty 6 (p73) 66 Marylebone High St (Map 8 C1) Fashion Skandium (p74) 86–7 Marylebone High St (Map 8 C1) Interiors Whistles (p72) 12 St Christopher’s Place (Map 8 C3) Fashion

Mayfair & St James’s b Store (p67) 6 Conduit Street (Map 8 D3) Shoes & Accessories Browns (p70) 23–7 South Molton Street (Map 8 D3) Fashion Fenwick (p79) 63 New Bond Street (Map 8 D3) www.fenwick.co.uk Department Store Fortnum & Mason (p79) 181 Piccadilly (Map 9 E4) www.fortnumandmason.com Department Store Georgina Goodman (p69) 12–14 Shepherd St (Map 8 D5) Shoes & Accessories Jigsaw (p85) 126 New Bond St (Map 8 D3) Fashion Karen Millen (p85) 262–4 Regent St (Map 8 D3) Fashion N Peal (p70) 37 & 71 Burlington Arcade (Map 9 E4) Fashion Oki-ni (p68) 25 Savile Row (Map 9 E3) Fashion

£££ expensive ££ moderate £ cheap (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p181)

211

Index by Area Centre Shopping continued Poste (p70) 10 South Molton St (Map 8 D3) Shoes & Accessories Prestat (p75) 14 Princes Arcade (Map 9 E4) Food REN (p69) 19 Shepherd Market (Map 8 D4) Health & Beauty Stella McCartney (p70) 30 Bruton Street (Map 8 D4) Fashion

Soho Agent Provocateur (p67) 6 Broadwick Street (Map 9 E3) Lingerie The Dispensary (p68) Newburgh Street (Map 9 E3) Fashion Gerry’s (p66) 74 Old Compton St (Map 9 F3) Wines & Spirits Jess James (p68) Newburgh Street (Map 9 E3) Shoes & Accessories Kokon To-Zai (p66) 57 Greek Street (Map 9 F3) Fashion Liberty (p68) 210–20 Regent Street (Map 8 D3) Department Store Marks & Spencer (p85) 458 Oxford Street (Map 9 E2) Department Store Phonica (p67) 51 Poland Street (Map 9 E3) Music RedDot (p68) Newburgh Street (Map 9 E3) Fashion Scent Systems (p68) Newburgh Street (Map 9 E3) Health & Beauty

212

The World According To… (p66) 4 Brewer Street (Map 9 E3) Fashion

Sir John Soane’s Museum (p97) 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields (Map 9 H2)

Vintage (p66) 39–43 Brewer St (Map 9 E3) Prints & Posters

Temple Church (p98) Inner Temple, Fleet St (Map 10 A3)

Art & Architecture

Marylebone

Bloomsbury

Lisson (p110) 52–4 Bell St (Map 8 A1) Art Gallery

British Museum (p13) Great Russell Street (Map 9 F2) Gagosian (p110) www.gagosian.com 6–24 Britannia St (Map 3 G4) Art Gallery

Westminster Abbey (p96) Broad Sanctuary (Map 15 F1)

Performance Bloomsbury The Place (p122) 17 Duke’s Road (Map 3 F5) Dance Venue Scala (p126) 275 Pentonville Rd (Map 3 H4) Music Venue

The Wallace Collection (p101) Manchester Square (Map 8 C2) Museum

Covent Garden

Mayfair & St James’s

12 Bar Club (p119) 22–3 Denmark St (Map 9 F2) Music Venue

Great Court & Reading Room, British Museum (p98) Great Russell Street (Map 9 F2) Modern Architecture

Gagosian (p110) www.gagosian.com 8 Heddon Street (Map 9 E3) Art Gallery

Arts Theatre (p119) Great Newport St (Map 9 F3) Theatre

Covent Garden

Sackler Wing, RA (p100) Piccadilly (Map 9 E4) Art Gallery

Donmar Warehouse (p118) 41 Earlham Street (Map 9 F3) Theatre

Sadie Coles HQ (p110) 35 Heddon Street (Map 9 E3) Art Gallery

ENO @ The Coliseum (p119) St Martin’s Lane (Map 9 G4) Concert Hall

St James’s Piccadilly (p100) 197 Piccadilly (Map 9 E4)

Royal Opera House (p118) Bow Street (Map 9 G3) Concert Hall

National Gallery (See Sainsbury Wing) National Portrait Gallery (p96) St Martin’s Place (Map 9 F4) Photographers’ Gallery (p95) 5 & 8 Great Newport Street (Map 9 F3) Art Gallery Sainsbury Wing, National Gallery (p95) Trafalgar Square (Map 9 F4) Museum Somerset House (p94) Strand (Map 9 H3) Museum Theatre Museum (p95) Russell Street (Map 9 G3)

Fitzrovia RIBA (p97) 66 Portland Place (Map 8 D1) Modern Architecture

Holborn

Stephen Friedman (p110) Old Burlington St (Map 9 E4) Art Gallery

Marylebone

Westminster & Pimlico

Wigmore Hall (p122) 36 Wigmore Street (Map 8 C2) Concert Hall

Banqueting House (p99) Whitehall (Map 9 G5) Historic Building

Soho

Buckingham Palace (p96) Buckingham Gate (Map 14 D1) Historic Building ICA (p96) The Mall (Map 9 F5) Queens Gallery (p96) Buckingham Palace Road (Map 14 D1) Museum

Borderline (p119) Orange Yard, Manette St (9 F3) Music Venue Comedy Store (p121) 1a Oxendon Street (Map 9 F4) Comedy Club Curzon Soho (p120) 99 Shaftesbury Ave (Map 9 F3) Cinema

Dr Johnson’s House (p98) 17 Gough Square (Map 10 A2)

St Margaret’s Church (p99) Sanctuary (Map 15 G1)

Mean Fiddler (p120) 168 Charing Cross Rd (Map 9 F3) Music Venue

St Bride’s (p100) Fleet Street (Map 10 A3) www.stbrides.com

Tate Britain (p99) Millbank (Map 15 G3) Museum

Prince Charles Cinema (p121) 7 Leicester Place (Map 9 F3) Cinema

www.elondon.dk.com

Centre – West Ronnie Scott’s (p121) 47 Frith Street (Map 9 F3) Music Venue

Escape Bar (p158) 10a Brewer Street (Map 9 E3) Bar

Soho Theatre (p120) 21 Dean Street (Map 9 F3)

French House (p139) 49 Dean Street (Map 9 F3) Pub

Westminster & Pimlico St John’s Smith Square (p122) Smith Square (Map 15 G2) Concert Hall

Pubs, Bars & Clubs Bloomsbury Lamb (p141) 94 Lamb’s Conduit St (9 H1) Pub

G-A-Y (p158) 30 Old Compton St (Map 9 F3) Bar/Club Madame Jo-Jos (p138) 8–10 Brewer Street (Map 9 E3) Club Pillars of Hercules (p144) 7 Greek Street (Map 9 F3) Pub

Covent Garden

The Player (p139) 8 Broadwick Street (Map 9 E3) Bar

The American Bar (p137) Savoy Hotel, Strand (Map 9 G4) Bar

Fitzrovia

The End (p141) 18 West Central St (Map 9 G2) Bar Gordon’s Wine Bar (p136) 47 Villiers Street (Map 9 G4) Bar Heaven (p136) Villiers Street (Map 9 G4) Club

Fitzroy Tavern (p144) 16 Charlotte Street (Map 9 E2) Pub Jerusalem (p139) 33–4 Rathbone Pl (Map 9 E2) Bar Market Place (p140) 11 Market Place (Map 9 E2) Bar

Lamb & Flag (p137) 33 Rose Street (Map 9 G3) Pub

Mash (p140) 19–21 Great Portland Street (Map 8 D2) Bar

Lobby Bar (p136) 1 Aldwych (Map 9 H3) Bar

The Social (p140) 5 Little Portland St (Map 8 D2) Bar

Soho

Mayfair & St James’s

Atlantic Bar & Grill (p137) 20 Glasshouse St (Map 9 E4) Bar

Zeta Bar (p140) Mayfair Hilton Hotel, 35 Hertford Street (Map 8 C5) Bar

Bar Rumba (p138) 36 Shaftesbury Ave (Map 9 F3) Bar Coach & Horses (p144) 29 Greek Street (Map 9 F3) Pub The Endurance (p138) 90 Berwick Street (Map 9 E3) Pub

Havens: Parks & Gardens Covent Garden Victoria Embankment Gardens (p168) Victoria Embankment & Villiers Street (Map 9 G4)

Holborn

Westminster & Pimlico

Temple (p168) Off Fleet Street (Map 10 A3)

City Inn Westminster (p184) ££ 30 John Islip Street (Map 15 F3)

Havens: Spas & Treatments

Dover Hotel (p183) £ 42–4 Belgrave Rd (Map 15 E3)

Mayfair & St James’s

West

Elemis Day Spa (p169) 2–3 Lancashire Ct (Map 8 D3)

Restaurants

Farmacia (p168) Selfridges, 4th Floor, 400 Oxford Street (Map 8 c3)

Bayswater & Paddington Magic Wok (p43) 61 Queensway (Map 7 F3) Chinese

Hotels

Maroush Gardens (p36) ££ 1–3 Connaught St (Map 8 A3) Middle Eastern

Bloomsbury Crescent Hotel (p181) 49–50 Cartwright Gardens (Map 3 F5)

£

Generator (p181) Compton Place (Map 3 G5)

£

Satay House (p43) 13 Sale Place (Map 7 H2) Malaysian

Covent Garden Hotel £££ (p180) 10 Monm0uth St (Map 9 F3) £££

£££

Durrants (p182) George Street (Map 8 B2)

££

Dining Room (p40) 114 Lots Road (Map 13 G5) Gastropub

£££ Tom Aikens (p39) £££ 43 Elystan Street (Map 14 A3) European ££ Tendido Cero (p40) 174 Old Brompton Rd (Map 13 G3) Spanish

Mayfair & St James’s The Metropolitan (p182) £££ Old Park Lane (Map 8 C5)

Soho Hazlitt’s (p181) 6 Frith Street (Map 9 F3)

Gordon Ramsay (p34) £££ 68–9 Royal Hospital Road (Map 14 B4) European

The Painted Heron (p40) ££ 112 Cheyne Walk (Map 13 H5) Indian

Marylebone Dorset Square (p183) 39 Dorset Square (Map 8 B1)

Chutney Mary (p40) £££ 535 King’s Rd (Map 13 G5) Indian

Lots Road Pub &

Fitzrovia Charlotte Street Hotel (p181) 15 Charlotte Street (Map 9 E2)

£

Chelsea & Fulham

Covent Garden

One Aldwych (p180) 1 Aldwych (Map 9 H3)

£

£££

££

Hammersmith The Gate (p41) 51 Queen Charlotte Street (Map 12 A3) Vegetarian

£££ expensive ££ moderate £ cheap (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p181)

££

213

Index by Area West

S&M Café (p42) £ 268 Portobello Rd (Map 6 D3) Café

Restaurants continued The River Café (p41) £££ Rainville Road (Map 12 A5) Italian

The Westbourne (p160) ££ 101 Westbourne Pk Villas (7 E2) Gastropub

Shopping

Kensington & Earl’s Court

Chelsea & Fulham

Orangery (p170) ££ Kensington Gardens (Map 7 F5) Café

Antiquarius (p80) 131–41 King’s Rd (Map 14 A4) Vintage Furniture

Knightsbridge & Belgravia

The Conran Shop (p78) 81 Fulham Road (Map 14 A2) Interiors

Foliage (p37) £££ Mandarin Oriental, 66 Knightsbridge (Map 8 B5) European

Designers Guild (p80) 267 & 277 King’s Rd (Map 14 A4) Interiors

Hunan (p38) ££ 51 Pimlico Road (Map 14 C3) Chinese

Jimmy Choo (p77) 169 Draycott Ave (Map 14 A3) Shoes & Accessories

Noura (p38) ££ 16 Hobart Place (Map 14 D1) Middle Eastern

Joseph (p77) 77 Fulham Road (Map 13 H3) Fashion

Racine (p39) ££ 239 Brompton Rd (Map 14 A2) French

Kate Kuba (p79) 22 Duke of York Square (14 B3) Shoes & Accessories

Zafferano (p39) £££ 15 Lowndes Street (Map 14 B1) Italian

K0rres (p79) 124 King’s Road (Map 14 A3) Health & Beauty

Zuma (p38) £££ 5 Raphael Street (Map 14 A1) Japanese

Oliver Sweeney (p79) 29 King’s Road (Map 14 B3) Shoes & Accessories

Notting Hill & Westbourne Park

Knightsbridge & Belgravia

E&O (p42) ££ 14 Blenheim Cres (Map 6 C3) Oriental

Anya Hindmarch (p76) 15–17 Pont Street (Map 14 B2) Shoes & Accessories

Lisboa Patisserie (p42) £ 57 Golborne Road (Map 6 C2) Café

The Chocolate Society (p76) 36 Elizabeth St (Map 14 C2) Food

Lonsdale (p143) 44–8 Lonsdale Road (Map 6 D3) Gastropub

££

Erickson Beamon (p76) 38 Elizabeth St (Map 14 C2) Shoes & Accessories

Rosa’s (p160) 69 Westbourne Park Road (Map 7 E2) European

££

214

Harrods (p79) 87–135 Brompton Road (Map 14 B1) www.harrods.com Department Store

Harvey Nichols (p79) 109–25 Knightsbridge (14 B1) www.harveynichols.com Department Store Jo Malone (p75) 150 Sloane Street (Map 14 B2) Health & Beauty Lulu Guinness (p77) 3 Ellis Street (Map 14 B2) Shoes & Accessories Maria Grachvogel (p75) 162 Sloane Street (Map 14 B2) Fashion Neisha Crosland (p77) 8 Elystan Street (Map 14 A3) Interiors Patrick Cox (p75) 129 Sloane Street (Map 14 B2) Shoes & Accessories Philip Treacy (p76) 69 Elizabeth St (Map 14 C2) Shoes & Accessories Poilane (p76) 46 Elizabeth St (Map 14 C2) Food Les Senteurs (p76) 71 Elizabeth Street (Map 14 C2) Health & Beauty Tracey Boyd (p76) 42 Elizabeth St (Map 14 C2) Fashion Woodhams (p76) 45 Elizabeth St (Map 14 C2) Florist

Notting Hill & Westbourne Park

The Cross (p85) 141 Portland Road (Map 6 C4) Fashion Duchamp (p82) 75 Ledbury Road (Map 6 D3) Fashion Graham & Green (pp85 & 90) 4 & 10 Elgin Crescent (Map 6 C3) Interiors Honest Jon’s (p83) 278 Portobello Rd (Map 6 D3) Music Intoxica! (p83) 231 Portobello Rd (Map 6 D3) Music J&M Davidson (p81) 42 Ledbury Road (Map 6 D3) Fashion JW Beeton (p82) 48–50 Ledbury Rd (Map 6 D3) Fashion Marilyn Moore (p84) 7 Elgin Crescent (Map 6 C3) Fashion Miller Harris (p81) 14 Needham Road (Map 7 E3) Health & Beauty Paul Smith (pp60 & 84) 120 & 122 Kensington Park Road (Map 6 D4) Fashion Portobello Market (p159) Map 6 D3 Market

202 (p80) 202 Westbourne Gro (Map 7 F3) Fashion

Preen (p83) Unit 5 Portobello Green (Map 6 C2) Fashion

Bill Amberg (p81) 10 Chepstow Road (Map 7 E2) Shoes & Accessories

Rellik (p85) 8 Golborne Road (Map 6 C1) Fashion

Blenheim Books (p159) 11 Blenheim Cres (Map 6 C3) Books

Rough Trade (p81) 130 Talbot Road (Map 6 D3) Music

Coco Ribbon (p84) 21 Kensington Park Road (Map 6 C3) Fashion

Looking for shops near you? Link up via

Simon Finch Rare Books (p82) 61a Ledbury Rd (Map 6 D3) Books

www.elondon.dk.com

West – City & East Space.NK (p80) 127–31 Westbourne Gr (7 F3) Health & Beauty Tonic (p82) 276 Portobello Road (6 C2) Fashion Travel Bookshop (p159) 13–15 Blenheim Cres (6 C3) Books Willma (p84) 339 Portobello Rd (Map 6 C2) Shoes & Accessories

Notting Hill & Westbourne Park Electric Cinema (p123) 191 Portobello Rd (Map 6 D3)

Shepherd’s Bush Shepherd’s Bush Empire (p123) Shepherd’s Bush Green (Map 6 A5) Music Venue

Bar Lonsdale (p143) 44–8 Lonsdale Rd (Map 6 D3) Bar Notting Hill Arts Club (p144) 21 Notting Hill Gate (Map 7 E4) Club Trailer H (p143) 177 Portobello Rd (Map 6 C2) Bar

Pubs, Bars & Clubs

Art & Architecture

Bayswater & Paddington

Chelsea & Fulham

Kensington

Cherry Jam (p141) 58 Porchester Road (Map 7 F2) Bar

Chelsea Physic Garden (p171) Swan Walk (Map 14 B4)

Brompton Oratory (p101) Brompton Road (Map 14 A2) Church Kensington Palace (p96) Palace Avenue (Map 7 F5) Leighton House Museum (p103) 12 Holland Park Rd (Map 12 D1) Linley Sambourne House (p102) 18 Stafford Terrace (Map 13 E1) Historic Building Natural History Museum (p102) Exhibition Road (Map 13 H2) Science Museum (p102) Exhibition Road (Map 13 H2) Serpentine Gallery (p101) Kensington Gdns (Map 7 H5) Art Gallery

Chelsea & Fulham Apartment 195 (p142) 195 King’s Road (Map 14 A4) Bar

Hammersmith Blue Anchor (p154) 13 Lower Mall (1 Hammersmith) Pub

Bayswater & Paddington Porchester Spa (p170) Queensway (Map 7 F3)

Townhouse (p142) 31 Beauchamp Pl (Map 14 A1) Bar

Hammersmith

Notting Hill & Westbourne Park Golborne Grove (p143) 36 Golborne Road (Map 6 C1)

Bayswater & Paddington

Flâneur Food Hall (p45) ££ 41 Farringdon Rd (Map 10 A1) European Moro (p44) ££ 34–6 Exmouth Mkt (Map 4 A5) Spanish/North African

Blakes (p185) £££ 33 Roland Gdns (Map 13 G3) Five Sumner Place (p184) ££ 5 Sumner Place (Map 13 H3)

Kensington Abbey House (p186) £ 11 Vicarage Gate (Map 7 E5) Mayflower (p184) £ 26–8 Trebovir Rd (Map 13 E3)

Knightsbridge & Belgravia The Franklin (p184) £££ 28 Egerton Gdns (Map 14 A2) Topham Belgravia (p183)

Clerkenwell Fish Central (p45) £ 149–51 Central St (Map 4 C5) British

Chelsea & Fulham

606 Club (p123) 90 Lots Road (Map 13 G5) Music Venue

Club Gascon (p47) £££ 57 West Smithfield (Map 10 B2) French

Sutton Arms (p45) ££ 6 Carthusian St (Map 10 B1) Gastropub

Windsor Castle (p144) 114 Campden Hill Rd (Map 7 E5) Pub

Nag’s Head (p141) 53 Kinnerton St (Map 14 B1) Pub

Riverside Studios (p124) Crisp Road (Map 12 A4) Arts Centre

Havens: Spas & Treatments

Kensington

Performance Chelsea & Fulham

Holland Park (p170) Map 6 D5

The Colonnade (p185) ££ 2 Warrington Cres (Map 7 F1)

Blue Bar, Berkeley Hotel (p142) Wilton Place (Map 14 B1) Bar

City & East

Smiths of Smithfield ££/£££ (p45) 67–77 Charterhouse St (Map 10 B2) European

Kensington

Hotels

V&A (p102) Exhibition Road (Map 13 H2) Museum

The Portobello (p186) ££ 22 Stanley Gardens (Map 6 D3)

The City

The Dove (p154) 19 Upper Mall (1 Hammersmith) Pub

Knightsbridge & Belgravia

Miller’s Residence (p186) ££ 111a Westbourne Gr (Map 7 E3)

Restaurants

Havens: Parks & Gardens

Brompton Cemetery (p105) Lillie Road (Map 13 E4)

Notting Hill & Westbourne Park

££

St John (p46) £££ 26 St John Street (Map 4 B5) British Strada (p43) ££ 8–10 Exmouth Market, www.strada.co.uk (Map 4 A5) Italian

Hackney Green Papaya (p48) 191 Mare Street (Map 5 H1) Vietnamese

£

Shoreditch & Hoxton Cantaloupe (p47) ££ 35 Charlotte Road (Map 5 E5) Mediterranean

£££ expensive ££ moderate £ cheap (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p181)

215

Index by Area City & East Restaurants continued Fifteen (p34) £££ 15 Westland Place (Map 4 C4) European Great Eastern Dining Room (p48) ££ 54 Great Eastern St (Map 5 E5) Oriental

Hoxton Boutique (p86) 2 Hoxton Street (Map 5 E5) Fashion

Vilma Gold (p15) 25b Vyner Street (Map 5 H3) Art Gallery

Lara Bohinc 107 (p86) 51 Hoxton Square (Map 5 E5) Shoes & Accessories

Wilkinson Gallery (p110) 242 Cambridge Heath Road Art Gallery

Smallfish Records (p87) 329 Old Street (Map 11 F1) Music

The City

Spitalfields & Whitechapel

St Bartholomew the Great (p103) West Smithfield (Map 10 B2) St Mary-le-Bow (p100) Cheapside (Map 10 C3)

The Real Greek (p48) ££ 14 Hoxton Market (Map 5 E5) Greek

A Gold (p87) 42 Brushfield St (Map 11 E1) Food

Rivington Bar and Grill (p162) 28–30 Rivington St (Map 5 E5) European

Artcadia (p87) 108 Commercial St (Map 11 F1) Prints & Posters

St Stephen Walbrook (p100) Walbrook (Map 10 D3)

Viet Hoa (p48) £ 70–72 Kingsland Rd (Map 5 E4) Vietnamese

Brick Lane Market (p160) Map 5 F5

Tower of London (p96) Tower Hill (Map 11 F4)

Cheshire Street Market (p88) Map 11 F1

Clerkenwell

Spitalfields & Whitechapel Arkansas Café (p161) £ Spitalfields Market (Map 11 F1) North American Beigel Bake (p19) 159 Brick Lane (Map 5 F5) Café

£

Café Spice Namaste (p46) ££ 16 Prescot Street (Map 11 F3) Indian Market Coffee House (p161) Brushfield Street (Map 11 E1) Café

Labour and Wait (p88) 18 Cheshire Street (Map 5 F5) Vintage Furniture Rokit (p88) 101 & 107 Brick Lane (Map 11 F1) Fashion Spitalfields Market (p161) Map 11 F1 Story (p87) 4 Wilkes Street (Map 11 F1) Interiors

Shopping

Tatty Devine (p88) 236 Brick Lane (Map 11 F1) Shoes & Accessories

Clerkenwell

Art & Architecture

Saloon (p86) 23 Arlington Way (Map 4 A4) Fashion

Bethnal Green

Shoreditch & Hoxton ARTWORDS (p162) 65 Rivington Street (Map 5 E5) www.artwords.co.uk Books Columbia Road Market (p161) Map 5 F4

216

St Paul’s Cathedral (p100) www.stpauls.co.uk (Map 10 B3)

Museum in Docklands (p106) West India Quay, www.museum indocklands.org.uk (£ West India Quay / 1 Canary Wharf)

Performance The City Barbican (p124) Silk Street (Map 10 C1) Arts Centre

Hackney Hackney Empire (p125) Mare Street (Map 5 H1) Theatre Ocean (p125) 270 Mare Street (Map 5 H1) Music Venue

Shoreditch & Hoxton Comedy Café (p125) 66–8 Rivington St (Map 5 E5)

Museum of the Order of St John (p104) St John’s Gate (Map 10 B1)

Spitalfields & Whitechapel

Shoreditch & Hoxton

The Spitz (p124) Old Spitalfields Market (Map 11 F1) Music Venue

The Agency (p110) Charlotte Road (Map 5 E5) Art Gallery Geffrye Museum (p105) Kingsland Road (Map 5 E4) White Cube (p110) Hoxton Square (Map 5 E5) Art Gallery

Spitalfields & Whitechapel Dennis Severs’ House (p104) 18 Folgate Street (Map 11 E1) Historic Building

Pubs, Bars & Clubs The City Black Friar (p144) 174 Queen Victoria Street (Map 10 B3) Pub Vertigo (p145) Level 42, Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St (Map 10 D2) Bar

Clerkenwell

The Approach (p110) Approach Rd (1 Bethnal Green) Art Gallery

19 Princelet Street (p103) Spitalfields (Map 11 F1) Historic Building

Café Kick (p145) 43 Exmouth Market (Map 4 A5) Bar

Chisenhale (p110) Chisenhale Rd (1 Bethnal Gr) Art Gallery

Whitechapel Gallery (p104 ) 80 Whitechapel High St (11 F2)

Fabric (p145) 77a Charterhouse St (Map 10 B1) Club

Matt’s Gallery (p110) 42–4 Copperfield Road (1 Mile End) Art Gallery

Wapping & Docklands Wapping Project Space (p105) Wapping Wall (1 Wapping) Art Gallery

Fluid (p146) 40 Charterhouse St (Map 10 B1) Bar

www.elondon.dk.com

City & East – North Jerusalem Tavern (p146) 55 Britton Street (Map 10 B1) Pub

Golden Hart (p149) 110 Commercial St (Map 11 F1) Pub

Turnmills (p146) 63a Clerkenwell Rd (Map 10 B1) Club

Pride of Spitalfields (p148) 3 Heneage Street (Map 11 F1) Pub

Hackney

Vibe Bar (p148) Old Truman Brewery, 91–5 Brick Lane (Map 11 F1) Bar

Royal Inn on the Park (p153) Grove Road (1 Bethnal Green) Pub

Shoreditch & Hoxton 333/Mother (p147) 333 Old Street (Map 5 E5) Club Bar Kick (p162) 127 Shoreditch High Street (Map 5 E5) Bar The Bricklayer’s Arms (p162) 63 Charlotte Road (Map 5 E5) Pub Cargo (p146) 83 Rivington Street (Map 5 E5) Bar/Club Elbow Room (p162) 97–113 Curtain Rd (Map 5 E5) Bar Herbal (p147) 10–14 Kingsland Rd (Map 5 E4) Club Hoxton Square Bar & Kitchen (p147) 2–4 Hoxton Square (Map 5 E5) Bar Loungelover (p149) 1 Whitby Street (Map 5 F5) Bar Pool (p161) 104–8 Curtain Road (Map 5 E5) Bar Zigfrid (p162) 11 Hoxton Square (Map 5 E5) Bar

Spitalfields & Whitechapel 93 Feet East (p148) 150 Brick Lane (Map 11 F1) Club

Hampstead Giraffe (see p221) International

££

The Wells (p51) ££/£££ 30 Well Walk (Map 1 B4) Gastropub

Islington The Drapers Arms (p49) ££ 44 Barnsbury St (Map 4 A2) Gastropub

Wapping & Docklands The Grapes (p149) 76 Narrow Street (1 Wapping) Pub

Gallipoli (p49) £ 102 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) Turkish

Prospect of Whitby (p149) 57 Wapping Wall (1 Wapping) Pub

The House (p49) ££ 63–9 Canonbury Rd (Map 4 B1) Gastropub

Hotels

Masala Zone (see p221)

The City

Kilburn

Great Eastern (p187) £££ Liverpool Street (Map 11 E2)

Kovolam (p52) £ 12 Willesden Lane (1 Kilburn) Indian

Clerkenwell Malmaison (p187) ££ Charterhouse Sq (Map 10 B1) The Rookery (p188) £££ Peter’s Lane, Cowcross Street (Map 10 B1) The Zetter (p188) ££ 86 Clerkenwell Rd (Map 10 B1)

£

Origin (p90) Camden Passage (Map 4 B3) Interiors Rock Archive (p90) 110 Islington High St (Map 4 A3) Prints & Posters Scorah Pattullo (p89) 137 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) Fashion

Primrose Hill

Manna (p51) ££ 4 Erskine Road (Map 2 B2) Vegetarian

Shopping Islington After Noah (p89) 121 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) Vintage Furniture

Lock Tavern (p152) ££ 35 Chalk Farm Rd (Map 2 D2) Gastropub

Annie’s Vintage Clothes (p90) Camden Passage (Map 4 B3) Fashion

Mango Room (p51) ££ 10 Kentish Town Rd (Map 2 D1) Caribbean

Aria (p89) 295–6 & 133 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) Interiors

El Parador (p50) £ 245 Eversholt St (Map 3 E4) Spanish

Labour of Love (p89) 193 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) Fashion

The Lansdowne (p51) ££ 90 Gloucester Ave (Map 2 C2) Gastropub

Restaurants ££

Judith Lasalle (p90) Pierrepont Arcade Camden Passage (Map 4 B3) Vintage Furniture

twentytwentyone (p89) 274 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) Interiors

North

Café Corfu (p50) 7 Pratt Street (Map 3 E2) Greek

Comfort & Joy (p88) 109 Essex Road (Map 4 B3) Fashion

Primrose Hill

Odette’s (p50) £££ 130 Regent’s Park Rd (Map 2 B2) European

Camden

Caroline Carrier’s (p90) Pierrepont Arcade Camden Passage (Map 4 B3) Interiors

Camden Lock Market (p163) Map 2 D2

Anna (p90) 126 Regent’s Park Rd (Map 2 B2) Fashion Graham & Green (pp85 & 90) 164 Regent’s Park Rd (Map 2 B2) Interiors Primrose Hill Books (p90) Regent’s Park Road (Map 2 B2) Books Rachel Skinner (p90) 13 Princess Road (Map 2 B2) Shoes & Accessories Studio Perfumery (p90) 170 Regent’s Park Rd (Map 2 B2) Health & Beauty

Art & Architecture Hampstead Camden Arts Centre (p106) Arkwright Rd (1 Finchley Rd) Art Gallery

£££ expensive ££ moderate £ cheap (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p181)

217

Index by Area Camden Fenton House (p107) Windmill Hill (Map 1 A4) Historic Building Freud Museum (p108) 20 Maresfield Gardens (1 Finchley Road) Keats House (p108) Keats Grove (Map 1 C5) Museum Kenwood House (p108) Hampstead Heath (Map 1 C1) Museum 2 Willow Road (p107) Hampstead (Map 1 c4) Modern Architecture

Highgate Highgate Cemetery (p105) Swain’s Lane (1 Highgate) http://highgate-cemetery.org Cemetery

Islington Estorick Collection (p106) 39 Canonbury Sq (Map 4 B1) Museum

Jongleurs (p128) Chalk Farm Road (Map 2 D2) Comedy Club

Hampstead Everyman (p128) 5 Holly Bush Vale (Map 1 A5) Cinema

Islington Almeida (p126) Almeida Street (Map 4 B2) Theatre King’s Head Theatre Bar (p127) 115 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) Theatre Sadler’s Wells (p126) Rosebery Avenue (Map 4 A4) Dance Venue Union Chapel (p127) Compton Avenue (Map 4 B1) Music Venue

Islington

Battersea

Crown Islington (p151) 116 Cloudesley Rd (Map 4 A3) Pub

Ransome’s Dock (p55) Parkgate Road (1 Clapham Common) Modern European

Embassy Bar (p150) 119 Essex Road (Map 4 B2) Bar

Clapham

Island Queen (p151) 87 Noel Road (Map 4 B3) Pub

Tricycle (p129) 269 Kilburn High Rd (1 Kilburn) Arts Centre

Pubs, Bars & Clubs

Jazz Café (p127) 5 Parkway (Map 2 D3) Music Venue

218

Camden

Masters Super Fish (p53) £ 191 Waterloo Road (Map 10 A5) British

Hotels

Kensal Green Cemetery (p105) (1 Kensal Green) www.kensalgreen.co.uk Cemetery

Camden

Livebait (p53) £££ 41–5 The Cut (Map 10 A5) British

Highgate Woods (p173) (1 Highgate)

La Gaffe (p188) 107–11 Heath Street (Map 1 A4)

Performance

South Bank

Hampstead Heath (p172) Hampstead (Map 1 C2)

Hampstead Theatre (p128) Eton Avenue (1 Swiss Cottage)

Abney Park Cemetery (p173) Stoke Newington Church Street (£ Stoke Newington or 73 bus)

Putney Bridge (p55) £££ 2 Lwr Richmond Rd (1 Putney) French

Hampstead

Kensal Green

Stoke Newington

Putney

Havens: Parks & Gardens

Hampstead

Lord’s (p107) Wellington Road (1 St John’s Wood) Modern Architecture

Tsunami (p54) £££ 5 Voltaire Rd (1 Clapham North) Japanese

Medicine Bar (p150) 181 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) Bar

Swiss Cottage

St John’s Wood

Le Petit Max (p55) ££ Riverside Plaza, Chatfield Road ( £ Clapham Junction) French

Highgate

Kilburn

Mesón Don Felipe (p53) 53 The Cut (Map 10 A5) Spanish

Oxo Tower Restaurant, Bar & Brasserie (p54) £££ Barge House St (Map 10 A4) European

South

Tas (p53) 33 The Cut (Map 10 A5) Turkish

Restaurants

Mac Bar (p152) 102 Camden Road (Map 3 E2) Bar

Blueprint Café (p52) Shad Thames (Map 11 F5) European

££

Cantina Vinopolis (p163) 1 Bank End (Map 10 C4) European

££

Hampstead

£

£

Lock Tavern (p152) 35 Chalk Farm Rd (Map 2 D2) Bar

Pineapple (p151) 51 Leverton Street (1 Camden) Pub

££

Borough

Wandsworth Chez Bruce (p55) 2 Bellevue Rd (1 Wandsworth) Modern European

Freemason’s Arms (p153) 32 Downshire Hill (Map 1 C5) Pub

Champor-Champor (p52) ££ 62 Weston Street (Map 10 D5) Malaysian

Spaniards Inn (p153) Spaniards Road (Map 1 B2) Pub

Fish! (p163) ££ Cathedral Street (Map 10 D4) Seafood

Connect up with other parts of town via

££

££

Shopping Borough Borough Market (p163) Map 10 D4

Clapham Northcote Road Market (p165) £ Clapham Junction

www.elondon.dk.com

North – South South Bank

Hampton Court

Pubs, Bars & Clubs

Greenwich & Deptford

Calder Bookshop (p91) 51 The Cut (Map 10 A5) Books

Hampton Court Palace (p96) £ Hampton Court

Borough

Nunhead

Anchor Bankside (p152) 34 Park Street (Map 10 C4) Pub

Greenwich Union (p155) 56 Royal Hill (Map 16 B3) Pub

Grammex (p91) 25 Lower Marsh (Map 10 A5) Music Oxo Tower Wharf (p91) Barge House St (Map 10 A4) Interiors/Fashion Radio Days (p91) 87 Lower Marsh (Map 10 A5) Fashion What the Butler Wore (p91) 131 Lower Marsh (Map 10 A5) Fashion

Nunhead Cemetery (p105) Linden Grove (£ Nunhead)

South Bank Hayward Gallery (p109) South Bank Centre (Map 9 H4) Art Gallery

George Inn (p163) 77 Borough High St (Map 10 D5) Pub

Saatchi Gallery (p109) County Hall (Map 9 H5) Art Gallery

Globe Tavern (p163) Bedale Street (Map 10 D4) Pub

Performance

Market Porter (p163) 9 Stoney Street (Map 10 C4) Pub

Art & Architecture

Battersea

Borough

BAC (Battersea Arts Centre) (p131) Lavender Hill (£ Clapham Junction)

Design Museum (p110) 28 Shad Thames (Map 11 F5) Art Gallery Jerwood Space (p109) 171 Union Street (Map 10 B5) Art Gallery

Borough Shakespeare’s Globe (p130) Bankside (Map 10 C4) Theatre

Old Operating Theatre (p110) 9a St Thomas’s St (Map 10 D5) Museum

Brixton

Tate Modern (p111) Bankside (Map 10 B4)

Ritzy (p131) Brixton Oval (1 Brixton) Cinema

Camberwell

Founders Arms (p154) Bankside (Map 10 B4) Pub

Greenwich & Deptford

Royal Oak (p163) 44 Tabard Street (1 Borough) Pub

Brixton Bug Bar & Lounge (p154) St Matthews Church (1 Brixton) Bar Dogstar (p154) 389 Coldharbour Lane (1 Brixton) Club

Vauxhall Tavern (p153) 372 Kennington La (Map 15 H4) Club

Richmond White Cross (p154) Water Lane (£ 1 Richmond) Pub

Havens: Parks & Gardens Greenwich & Deptford Greenwich Park (p174) Greenwich (Map 16 C3)

Kew Kew Gardens (p175) Kew (£ 1 Kew)

London Bridge Hotel ££ (p189) 8–18 London Bridge Street (Map 10 D5)

Substation South (p165) Trinity Road (1 Brixton) Club

Dulwich

South Bank

Clapham

Dulwich Picture Gallery (p112) Gallery Road (£ Dulwich)

NFT (p130) South Bank (Map 9 H4)

Eltham

Old Vic (p130) The Cut (Map 10 A5) Theatre

Bread & Roses (p155) 68 Clapham Manor Street (1 Clapham North) Pub

Queen’s House (p112) Greenwich Park (Map 16 C2) Historic Building

Ministry of Sound (p153) 103 Gaunt Street (1 Elephant & Castle) Club

Hotels

Laban (p130) Creekside (Map 16 A3) Dance Venue

Greenwich & Deptford

Kennington

Fridge/Fridge Bar (p153) 1 Town Hall Parade (1 Brixton) Club

South London Gallery (p110) 65 Peckham Rd (1 Elephant & Castle, then 171 bus) Art Gallery

Eltham Palace (p113) Court Yard (£ Eltham) Historic Building

Trafalgar Tavern (p155) Park Row (Map 16 C1) Pub

National Theatre (p129) South Bank (Map 9 H4)

Prince of Wales (p155) 38 Old Town (1 Clapham Common) Pub

South Bank Centre (p129) Belvedere Rd/South Bank (Map 9 H4) Concert Halls

Windmill (p153) Clapham Common (1 Clapham South) Pub

Borough

Mercure London City ££ Bankside (p189) 71–9 Southwark St (Map 10 B4)

Deptford & Greenwich Hamilton House (p189) ££ 14 West Grove (Map 16 C4)

£££ expensive ££ moderate £ cheap (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p181)

219

Index by Type St John (p46) 26 St John Street (Map 4 B5) City & East/Clerkenwell

Restaurants Recommended places to eat, including cafés and pubs

£££

Cafés

Belgian Belgo (p43) ££ 50 Earlham Street (Map 9 F3) www.belgorestaurants.co.uk Centre/Covent Garden

Arkansas Café (p161) Spitalfields Market (Map 11 F1) City & East/Spitalfields £

British

Bar Italia (pp19 & 158) 22 Frith Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho

Fish! (p163) Cathedral Street (Map 10 D4) South/Borough

Beigel Bake (p19) 159 Brick Lane (Map 5 F5) City & East/Spitalfields

£

Fish Central (p45) 149–151 Central Street (Map 4 C5) City & East/Clerkenwell

£

Golden Hind (p34) 73 Marylebone Lane (Map 8 C2) Centre/Marylebone

£

J Sheekey (p31) 28–32 St Martin’s Court (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden

£££

The Bridge House Canal Theatre Café (p171) Delamere Terrace (Map 7 G1) West/Bayswater & Paddington Lisboa Patisserie (p42) £ 57 Golborne Road (Map 6 C2) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park Market Coffee House (p161) Brushfield Street (Map 11 E1) City & East/Spitalfields

Lindsay House (p26) £££ 21 Romilly Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho

Orangery (p170) Kensington Gardens (Map 7 F5) West/Kensington

Livebait (p53) £££ 41–5 The Cut (Map 10 A5) South/South Bank

Patisserie Valerie (p26) 44 Old Compton Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho

Masters Super Fish (p53) £ 191 Waterloo Road (Map 10 A5) South/South Bank

Paul (p29) £ 20 Bedford Street (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden

Randall & Aubin (pp17 & 158) 14–16 Brewer Street (Map 9 E3) Centre/Soho

S&M Café (p42) 268 Portobello Road (Map 6 D3) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park

Rock & Sole Plaice (p29) £ 47 Endell Street (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden Rosa’s (p160) 69 Westbourne Pk Rd (Map 7 E2) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park Rules (p30) £££ 35 Maiden Lane (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden

220

££

£

£

££

Chinese ECapital (p25) 8 Gerrard Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho

The Ivy (p34) 1 West Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden

Hunan (p38) ££ 51 Pimlico Road (Map 14 C3) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia

Odette’s (p50) £££ 130 Regent’s Park Rd (Map 2 B2) North/Primrose Hill

Magic Wok (p43) £ 61 Queensway (Map 7 F3) West/Bayswater & Paddington

The Orrery (p35) £££ 55 Marylebone Hight St (Map 8 C1) Centre/Marylebone

Phoenix Palace (p36) 3–5 Glentworth Street (Map 8 B1) Centre/Marylebone

European Andrew Edmunds (p24) ££ 46 Lexington Street (Map 9 E3) Centre/Soho Blueprint Café (p52) Shad Thames (Map 11 F5) South/Borough

£

££

Oxo Tower Restaurant, Bar & Brasserie (p54) £££ Top Floor, Oxo Tower Wharf Barge House Street (Map 10 A4) South/South Bank Sketch (p34) £££ 9 Conduit Street (Map 8 D3) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Smiths of Smithfield (p45) ££/£££ 67–77 Charterhouse St (Map 10 B2) City & East/The City Thyme (p25) £££ The Hospital, Endell Street, (Map 9 G2) Centre/Covent Garden

Cantina Vinopolis (p163) 1 Bank End (Map 10 C4) South/Borough Le Caprice (p31) £££ Arlington House Arlington Street (Map 9 E4) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Chez Bruce (p55) 2 Bellevue Road (Wandsworth) South/Wandsworth

£££

£

Wong Kei (p25) £ 41–3 Wardour Street (Map 9 E3) Centre/Soho

££

Tom Aikens (p39) £££ 43 Elystan Street (Map 14 A3) West/Chelsea & Fulham The Wolseley (p32) £££ 160 Piccadilly (Map 9 E4) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s

French

Fifteen (p34) £££ 15 Westland Place (Map 4 C4) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton Flâneur Food Hall (p45) 41 Farringdon Road (Map 10 A1) City & East/Clerkenwell

Caribbean Mango Room (p51) 10 Kentish Town Road (Map 2 D1) North/Camden

Hakkasan (p27) £££ 8 Hanway Place (Map 9 F2) Centre/Fitzrovia

££

Foliage (p37) £££ Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park Hotel, 66 Knightsbridge (Map 8 B5) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia Gordon Ramsay (p34) £££ 68–9 Royal Hospital Road (Map 14 B4) West/Chelsea & Fulham

Club Gascon (p47) £££ 57 West Smithfield (Map 10 B2) City & East/The City La Galette (p36) £ 56 Paddington St (Map 8 C1) Centre/Marylebone Le Petit Max (p55) ££ Riverside Plaza Chatfield Road (£ Clapham) South/Clapham Putney Bridge (p55) £££ 2 Lwr Richmond Rd (£ Putney) South/Putney Racine (p39) ££ 239 Brompton Rd (Map 14 A2) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia

www.elondon.dk.com

Restaurants Gastropubs The Drapers Arms (p49) ££ 44 Barnsbury Street (Map 4 A2) North/Islington Duke of Cambridge (p15) 30 St Peter’s Street (Map 4 B3) North/Islington The House (p49) ££ 63–9 Canonbury Rd (Map 4 B1) North/Islington The Lansdowne (p51) 90 Gloucester Avenue (Map 2 C2) North/Primrose Hill

££

Lock Tavern (p152) ££ 35 Chalk Farm Raod (Map 2 D2) North/Camden Lonsdale (p143) ££ 44–8 Lonsdale Rd (Map 6 D3) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park

Chutney Mary (p40) £££ 535 King’s Road (Map 13 G5) West/Chelsea & Fulham

Locanda Locatelli (p34) £££ 8 Seymour Street (Map 8 B3) Centre/Marylebone

Zuma (p38) £££ 5 Raphael Street (Map 14 A1) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia

Cinnamon Club (p37) £££ Old Westminster Library Great Smith Street (Map 15 F1) Centre/Westminster & Pimlico

The River Café (p41) £££ Rainville Road (Map 12 A5) West/Hammersmith

Korean

Kovolam (p52) £ 12 Willesden Lane (1 Kilburn) North/Kilburn Masala Zone (p43) 9 Marshall Street, 020 7287 9966 (Map 9 E3) Centre/Soho 80 Upper Street, 020 7359 3399 (Map 4 B3) North/Islington

£

The Painted Heron (p40) ££ 112 Cheyne Walk (Map 13 H5) West/Chelsea & Fulham Rasa Samudra (p28) ££ 5 Charlotte street (Map 9 E1) Centre/Fitzrovia Red Fort (p27) 77 Dean St (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho

Sutton Arms (p45) ££ 6 Carthusian St (Map 10 B1) City & East/The City

Tamarind (p33) £££ 20 Queen Street (Map 8 D4) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s

The Wells (p51) ££/£££ 30 Well Walk (Map 1 B4) North/Hampstead

International

Greek Café Corfu (p50) 7 Pratt Street (Map 3 E2) North/Camden

££

Strada (p43) ££ 8–10 Exmouth Market (Map 4 A5) www.strada.co.uk City & East/Clerkenwell Zafferano (p39) £££ 15 Lowndes Street (Map 14 B1) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia

Lots Road Pub & Dining Room (p40) ££ 114 Lots Road (Map 13 G5) West/Chelsea & Fulham

The Westbourne (p160) 101 Westbourne Pk Villas (Map 7 E2) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park

Sardo (p29) ££ 45 Grafton Way (Map 9 E1) Centre/Fitzrovia

£££

£

Hazuki (p31) ££ 43 Chandos Place (Map 9 G4) Centre/Covent Garden Itsu (p43) ££ 103 Wardour Street (Map 9 E3) www.itsu.co.uk Centre/Soho

Café Emm (p25) 17 Frith Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho

£

Kiku (p33) £££ 17 Half Moon Street (Map 8 D4) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s

Giraffe (p43) 46 Rosslyn Hill (Map 1 C5) www.giraffe.net North/Hampstead

££

Matsuri (p29) £££ 71 High Holborn (Map 9 H2) Centre/Holborn

The Providores & Tapa Room (p35) £££ 109 Marylebone High St (Map 8 C1) Centre/Marylebone

The Real Greek (p48) ££ 14–15 Hoxton Market (Map 5 E5) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton

Rivington Bar and Grill (p162) 28–30 Rivington Street (Map 5 E5) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton

Indian

Italian

Café Spice Namaste (p46) ££ 16 Prescot Street (Map 11 F3) City & East/Spitalfields & Whitechapel

Cecconi’s (p31) £££ 5A Burlington Gardens (Map 9 E4) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s

Nobu (p34) £££ 19 Old Park Lane (Map 8 C5) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Tsunami (p54) 5 Voltaire Road (1 Clapham North) South/Clapham

£££

Champor-Champor (p52) ££ 62 Weston Street (Map 10 D5) South/Borough Satay House (p43) £ 13 Sale Place (Map 7 H2) West/Bayswater & Paddington

Cantaloupe (p47) ££ 35 Charlotte Road (Map 5 E5) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton

Middle Eastern Maroush Gardens (p36) ££ 1–3 Connaught Street (8 A3) West/Bayswater & Paddington Noura (p38) ££ 16 Hobart Place (Map 14 D1) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia Patogh (p37) £ 8 Crawford Place (Map 8 A2) Centre/Marylebone Al Sultan (p34) ££ 51–2 Hertford St (Map 8 C5) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Al Waha (p43) ££ 75 Westbourne Grove (7 E3) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park

North African Mô (p34) £ 23 Heddon Street (Map 9 E3) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s

Wagamama (p43) £ Lexington Street (Map 9 E3) www.wagamama.com Centre/Soho Yo! Sushi (p43) 52 Poland Street (Map 9 E3) www.yosushi.co.uk Centre/Soho

Malaysian

Mediterranean

Japanese Donzoko (p24) 15 Kingly Street (Map 9 E3) Centre/Soho

Kaya (p33) ££ 42 Albemarle Street (Map 8 D4) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s

£

Original Tagines (p36) ££ 7A Dorset Street (Map 8 B2) Centre/Marylebone

North American Bodean’s (p24) ££ 10 Poland Street (Map 9 E3) Centre/Soho

£££ expensive ££ moderate £ cheap (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p181)

221

Index by Type Restaurants

Patara (p33) ££ 3 & 7 Maddox St (Map 8 D3) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s

Calder Bookshop (p91) 51 The Cut (Map 10 A5) South/South Bank

continued

Turkish

Eagle Bar Diner (p27) £ 3–5 Rathbone Pl (Map 9 F2) Centre/Fitzrovia

Gallipoli (p49) £ 102 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) North/Islington

Oriental

Tas (p53) 33 The Cut (Map 10 A5) South/South Bank

Daunt Books (p74) 83 Marylebone High Street (Map 8 C1) Centre/Marylebone David Drummond (p64) Cecil Court (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden

North American

E&O (p42) ££ 14 Blenheim Cres (Map 6 C3) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park Great Eastern Dining Room (p48) ££ 54–6 Great Eastern St (Map 5 E5) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton

Spanish Fino (p28) ££ 33 Charlotte Street (Map 9 E2) Centre/Fitzrovia

££

Forbidden Planet (p63) 179 Shaftesbury Ave (Map 9 F2) Centre/Covent Garden

Vegetarian The Gate (p41) 51 Queen Charlotte St (Map 12 A3) West/Hammersmith

££

Manna (p51) ££ 4 Erskine Road (Map 2 B2) North/Primrose Hill

Vietnamese

Mar i Terra (p24) 17 Air Street (Map 9 E3) Centre/Soho

£

Green Papaya (p48) 191 Mare Street (Map 5 H1) City & East/Hackney

Mesón Don Felipe (p53) 53 The Cut (Map 10 A5) South/South Bank

£

Viet Hoa (p48) £ 70–2 Kingsland Rd (Map 5 E4) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton

£

Shopping

Foyles (p65) Charing Cross Road (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden Gay’s the Word (p64) 66 Marchmont St (Map 3 G5) Centre/Bloomsbury Henry Pordes (p65) 58–60 Charing Cross Road (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden Magma (p62) 8 Earlham Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden Marchpane (p64) Cecil Court (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden

Books

Nigel Williams (p64) Cecil Court (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden

Navarro’s (p28) £ 67 Charlotte Street (Map 9 E1) Centre/Fitzrovia

Any Amount of Books (p65) 56 Charing Cross Rd (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden

PJ Hilton (p64) Cecil Court (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden

El Parador (p50) £ 245 Eversholt St (Map 3 E4) North/Camden

ARTWORDS (p162) 65 Rivington Street (Map 5 E5) www.artwords.co.uk City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton

Primrose Hill Books (p90) Regent’s Park Road (Map 2 B2) North/Primrose Hill

Blackwell’s (p65) 100 Charing Cross Road (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden

Quinto (p65) 48a Charing Cross Rd (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden

Moro (p44) ££ 34–6 Exmouth Mkt (Map 4 A5) City & East/Clerkenwell

Tendido Cero (p40) 174 Old Brompton Rd (Map 13 G3) West/Chelsea & Fulham

Travel Bookshop (p159) 13–15 Blenheim Cres (Map 6 C3) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park

Department Stores Fenwick (p79) 63 New Bond Street (Map 8 D3) www.fenwick.co.uk Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Fortnum & Mason (p79) 181 Piccadilly (Map 9 E4) www.fortnumandmason.com Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Harrods (p79) 87–135 Brompton Road (Map 14 B1) www.harrods.com West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia Harvey Nichols (p79) 109–25 Knightsbridge (Map 14 B1) www.harveynichols.com West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia John Lewis (p79) 278–306 Oxford St (Map 8 D3) www.johnlewis.com Centre/Marylebone Liberty (p68) 210–20 Regent St (Map 8 D3) Centre/Soho Marks & Spencer (p85) 458 Oxford Street (Map 9 E2) Centre/Soho Selfridges (p71) 400 Oxford Street (Map 8 C3) Centre/Marylebone

££

Thai Busaba Eathai (p43) ££ 106–10 Wardour Street, 020 7255 8686 (Map 9 E3) Centre/Soho 22 Store Street, 020 7299 7900 (Map 9 F2) Centre/Bloomsbury

222

Simon Finch Rare Books (p82) 61a Ledbury Road (Map 6 D3) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park

Blenheim Books (p159) 11 Blenheim Crescent (Map 6 C3) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park Borders (p65) Charing Cross Road (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden

Shipley (p65) 70 Charing Cross Rd (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden Shipley Media (p65) 80 Charing Cross Road (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden Silver Moon (see Foyles, p65)

For links to fashion shops large and small across London, check

Fashion 202 (p80) 202 Westbourne Grove (Map 7 F3) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park Agnès B (p60) Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden All Saints (p62) 5 Earlham Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden

www.elondon.dk.com

Restaurants – Shopping Anna (p90) 126 Regent’s Pk Rd (Map 2 B2) North/Primrose Hill

FCUK (p85) 396 Oxford Street (Map 9 E2) Centre/Fitzrovia

Madeleine Press (p74) 90 Maryleb. High St (Map 8 C1) Centre/Marylebone

Annie’s Vintage Clothes (p90) Camden Passage (Map 4 B3) North/Islington

For Design Sake (p91) Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House Street (Map 10 A4) South/South Bank

Maharishi (p60) 19a Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden

aQuaint (p61) 38 Monmouth St (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden Browns (p70) 23–7 S Molton St (Map 8 D3) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Bunny London (p91) Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House Street (Map 10 A4) South/South Bank Burro (p60) 29 Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden Camper (p60) Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden

Gloria’s Super Deluxe (p160) Dray Walk, Brick Lane (Map 11 F1) City & East/Spitalfields & Whitechapel Hoxton Boutique (p86) 2 Hoxton Street (Map 5 E5) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton Jigsaw (p85) 126 New Bond Street (Map 8 D3) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s J&M Davidson (p81) 42 Ledbury Road (Map 6 D3) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park

Margaret Howell (p72) 34 Wigmore Street (Map 8 C2) Centre/Marylebone Maria Grachvogel (p75) 162 Sloane Street (Map 14 B2) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia

Red Hot (p83) Unit 9 Portobello Green (Map 6 C2) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park Rellik (p85) 8 Golborne Road (Map 6 C1) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park Rokit (p88) 101 & 107 Brick Lane (Map 11 F1) City & East/Spitalfields & Whitechapel

Marilyn Moore (p84) 7 Elgin Crescent (Map 6 C3) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park

Saloon (p86) 23 Arlington Way (Map 4 A4) City & East/Clerkenwell

Mulberry (p72) 11–12 Gees Court (Map 8 C3) Centre/Marylebone

Scorah Pattullo (p89) 137 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) North/Islington

Nicole Farhi (p60) Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden

Sixty 6 (p73) 66 Marylebone High Street (Map 8 C1) Centre/Marylebone

Coco Ribbon (p84) 21 Kensington Pk Rd (Map 6 C3) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park

Jones (p60) 13–15 Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden

N Peal (p70) 37 & 71 Burlington Arcade (Map 9 E4) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s

Size? (p62) 17–19 Neal Street (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden

Comfort & Joy (p88) 109 Essex Road (Map 4 B3) North/Islington

Joseph (p77) 77 Fulham Road (Map 13 H3) West/Chelsea & Fulham

Oki-ni (p68) 25 Savile Row (Map 9 E3) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s

Stella McCartney (p70) 30 Bruton Street (Map 8 D4) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s

Contemporary Wardrobe (p63) The Horse Hospital Colonnade (Map 9 G1) Centre/Bloomsbury

Junky (p160) Dray Walk, Brick La (Map 11 F1) City & East/Spitalfields & Whitechapel

Stüssy (p62) 19 Earlham Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden

The Cross (p85) 141 Portland Road (Map 6 C4) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park

JW Beeton (p82) 48–50 Ledbury Rd (Map 6 D3) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park

Paul Smith (pp60 & 84) Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden 120 & 122 Kensington Park Road (Map 6 D4) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park

Cyberdog (p62) 9 Earlham Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden

Karen Millen (p85) 262–4 Regent Street (Map 8 D3) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s

Diesel StyleLab (p60) Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden The Dispensary (p68) Newburgh Street (Map 9 E3) Centre/Soho Duchamp (p82) 75 Ledbury Road (Map 6 D3) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park

Koh Samui (p61) 65–7 Monmouth St (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden Kokon To-Zai (p66) 57 Greek Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho Labour of Love (p89) 193 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) North/Islington

Preen (p83) Unit 5 Port. Green (Map 6 C2) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park Public Beware (p160) Dray Walk, Brick La (Map 11 F1) City & East/Spitalfields & Whitechapel Radio Days (p91) 87 Lower Marsh (Map 10 A5) South/South Bank RedDot (p68) Newburgh Street (Map 9 E3) Centre/Soho

Suite 20 (p83) Unit 20 Portobello Green (Map 6 C2) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park Ted Baker (p60) Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden The World According To… (p66) 4 Brewer Street (Map 9 E3) Centre/Soho Tonic (p82) Portobello Road (Map 6 C2) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park Topshop (p68) Oxford Circus (Map 9 D2) Centre/Fitzrovia

£££ expensive ££ moderate £ cheap (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p181)

223

Index by Type Shopping Fashion continued

Paul Rothe (p73) 35 Marylebone Lane (Map 8 C2) Centre/Marylebone

Tracey Boyd (p76) 42 Elizabeth St (Map 14 C2) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia

Poilane (p76) 46 Elizabeth St (Map 14 C2) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia

Urban Outfitters (p62) 42–56 Earlham St (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden

Prestat (p75) 14 Princes Arcade (Map 9 E4) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s

What the Butler Wore (p91) 131 Lower Marsh (Map 10 A5) South/South Bank

Health & Beauty

Whistles (p72) 12 St Christopher’s Pl (Map 8 C3) Centre/Marylebone

Florists The Wild Bunch (p62) Earlham Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden Woodhams (p76) 45 Elizabeth Street (Map 14 C2) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia

Food A Gold (p87) 42 Brushfield St (Map 11 E1) City & East/Spitalfields & Whitechapel Camisa (p158) 61 Old Compton St (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho Carluccio’s (p72) St Christopher’s Pl (Map 8 C3) Centre/Marylebone The Chocolate Society (p76) 36 Elizabeth St (Map 14 C2) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia La Fromagerie (p74) 2–4 Moxton Street (Map 8 C2) Centre/Marylebone Gerry’s (p66) 74 Old Compton St (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho Neal’s Yard Dairy (p62) 17 Shorts Gardens (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden

224

Calmia (p73) 52–4 Marylebone High St (Map 8 C1) Centre/Marylebone Jo Malone (p75) 150 Sloane Street (Map 14 B2) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia Kiehl’s (p61) 29 Monmouth St (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden K0rres (p79) 124 King’s Road (Map 14 A3) West/Chelsea & Fulham Miller Harris (p81) 14 Needham Road (Map 7 E3) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park REN (p69) 19 Shepherd Market (Map 8 D4) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Scent Systems (p68) Newburgh Street (Map 9 E3) Centre/Soho Les Senteurs (p76) 71 Elizabeth Street (Map 14 C2) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia

Antiquarius (p80) 131–41 King’s Rd (Map 14 A4) West/Chelsea & Fulham Aram (p60) 110 Drury Lane (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden Aria (p89) 295–96 & 133 Upper St (Map 4 B2) North/Islington Bedstock (p83) Unit 26 Portobello Green (Map 6 C2) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park Black & Blum (p91) Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House Street (Map 10 A4) South/South Bank Bodo Sperlein (p91) Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House Street (Map 10 A4) South/South Bank Caroline Carrier’s (p90) Pierrepont Arcade Camden Passage (Map 4 B3) North/Islington The Conran Shop (p78) Michelin House 81 Fulham Road (Map 14 A2) West/Chelsea & Fulham Designers Guild (p80) 267 & 277 King’s Road (Map 14 A4) West/Chelsea & Fulham Eatmyhandbagbitch (p64) Drury Lane (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden

Space.NK (p80) 127–31 Westb. Gr (Map 7 F3) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park

Graham & Green (pp85 & 90) 4 & 10 Elgin Cr (Map 6 C3) West/Notting Hill 164 Regent’s Park Road (Map 2 B2) North/Primrose Hill

Studio Perfumery (p90) 170 Regent’s Park Road (Map 2 B2) North/Primrose Hill

Judith Lasalle (p90) Pierrepont Arcade Camden Passage (Map 4 B3) North/Islington

Interiors

Inexterior (p88) 14 Cheshire Street (Map 5 F5) City & East/Spitalfields & Whitechapel

After Noah (p89) 121 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) North/Islington

Labour and Wait (p88) 18 Cheshire Street (Map 5 F5) City & East/Spitalfields & Whitechapel Marimekko (p72) 16–17 St Christopher’s Pl (8 C3) Centre/Marylebone Mar Mar Co (p88) 16 Cheshire Street (Map 5 F5) City & East/Spitalfields & Whitechapel Mint (p73) 70 Wigmore Street (Map 8 C2) Centre/Marylebone Neisha Crosland (p77) 8 Elystan Street (Map 14 A3) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia Origin (p90) Camden Passage (Map 4 B3) North/Islington Skandium (p74) 86–7 Marylebone High St (Map 8 C1) Centre/Marylebone Story (p87) 4 Wilkes Street (Map 11 F1) City & East/Spitalfields & Whitechapel twentytwentyone (p89) 274 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) North/Islington

Lingerie Agent Provocateur (p67) 6 Broadwick Street (Map 9 E3) Centre/Soho Coco de Mer (p61) 23 Monmouth St (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden

Music Honest Jon’s (p83) 278 Portobello Rd (Map 6 D3) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park Intoxica! (p83) 231 Portobello Rd (Map 6 D3) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park

www.elondon.dk.com

Shopping – Art & Architecture Phonica (p67) 51 Poland Street (Map 9 E3) Centre/Soho

Bill Amberg (p81) 10 Chepstow Road (Map 7 E2) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park

Ray’s Jazz (p65) Foyles Bookshop, Charing Cross Road (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden

b Store (p67) 6 Conduit Street (Map 8 D3) Centre/Mayfair & St James

Rough Trade (p81) 130 Talbot Road (Map 6 D3) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park

Erickson Beamon (p76) 38 Elizabeth Street (Map 14 C2) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia

Smallfish Records (p87) 329 Old Street (Map 11 F1) City & East

Georgina Goodman (p69) 12–14 Shepherd St (Map 8 D5) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s

Vinyl Junkies (p158) Berwick St (Map 9 E3) Centre/Soho

James Smith & Sons (p63) 53 New Oxford St (Map 9 G2) Centre/Bloomsbury

Prints & Posters

Jess James (p68) Newburgh Street (Map 9 E3) Centre/Soho

Artcadia (p87) 108 Commercial St (Map 11 F1) City & East/Spitalfields & Whitechapel Rock Archive (p90) 110 Islington High St (Map 4 A3) North/Islington Stage Door Prints (p64) 9 Cecil Court (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden Storey’s (p64) 3 Cecil Court (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden The Tintin Shop (p60) 34 Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden Vertigo (p60) 22 Wellington St (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden Vintage (p66) 39–43 Brewer St (Map 9 E3) Centre/Soho

Shoes & Accessories Anello & Davide (p72) 20–21 St Christoper’s Pl (8 C3) Centre/Marylebone Anya Hindmarch (p76) 15–17 Pont Street (Map 14 B2) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia

For markets, see p236

Jimmy Choo (p77) 169 Draycott Avenue (Map 14 A3) West/Chelsea & Fulham Kate Kuba (p79) 22 Duke of York Square, King’s Road (Map 14 B3) West/Chelsea & Fulham

Poste (p70) 10 S Molton St (Map 8 D3) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s

Jerwood Space (p109) 171 Union Street (Map 10 B5) South/Borough

Poste Mistress (p61) 261–3 Monmouth St (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden

Lisson (p110) 52–4 Bell Street (Map 8 A1) Centre/Marylebone

Rachel Skinner (p90) 13 Princess Road (Map 2 B2) North/Primrose Hill Tatty Devine (p88) 236 Brick Lane (Map 11 F1) City & East/Spitalfields & Whitechapel Willma (p84) 339 Portobello Rd (Map 6 C2) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park

Art & Architecture Art Galleries The Agency (p110) Charlotte Road (Map 5 E5) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton

Kirk Originals (p60) 29 Floral Street (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden

The Approach (p110) Approach Road (1 Bethnal Green) City & East/Bethnal Green

Lara Bohinc 107 (p86) 51 Hoxton Square (Map 5 E5) Ctiy & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton

Camden Arts Centre (p106) Arkwright Road (Hampstead) North/Hampstead

Lulu Guinness (p77) 3 Ellis Street (Map 14 B2) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia

Chisenhale (p110) Chisenhale Road (1 Bethnal Green) City & East/Bethnal Green

Oliver Sweeney (p79) 29 King’s Road (Map 14 B3) West/Chelsea & Fulham Osprey (p72) St Christopher’s Pl (Map 8 C3) Centre/Marylebone Patrick Cox (p75) 129 Sloane Street (Map 14 B2) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia Philip Treacy (p76) 69 Elizabeth St (Map 14 C2) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia

Gagosian (p110) www.gagosian.com 6–24 Britannia Street (Map 3 G4) Centre/Bloomsbury 8 Heddon Street (Map 9 E3) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Hayward Gallery (p109) South Bank Centre (Map 9 H4) South/South Bank ICA (p96) The Mall (Map 9 F5) Centre/Westminster & Pimlico

Matt’s Gallery (p110) 42–4 Copperfield Road (1 Mile End) City & East/Bethnal Green Photographers’ Gallery (p95) 5 & 8 Great Newport Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden Saatchi Gallery (p109) County Hall (Map 9 H5) South/South Bank Sadie Coles HQ (p110) 35 Heddon Street (Map 9 E3) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Serpentine Gallery (p101) Kensington Gardens (Map 7 H5) West/Kensington South London Gallery (p110) 65 Peckham Rd (1 Elephant & Castle, then 171 bus) South/Camberwell Stephen Friedman (p110) Old Burlington Street (Map 9 E4) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Vilma Gold (p15) 25b Vyner Street (Map 5 H3) City & East/Bethnal Green Wapping Project Space (p105) Wapping Wall (1 Wapping) City & East/Wapping & Docklands Whitechapel Gallery (p104 ) 80 Whitechapel High St (11 F2) City & East/Spitalfields & Whitechapel White Cube (p110) Hoxton Square(Map 5 E5) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton Wilkinson Gallery (p110) 242 Cambridge Heath Road (1 Bethnal Green) City & East/Bethnal Green

225

Index by Type St Paul’s Cathedral (p100) www.stpauls.co.uk (Map 10 B3) City & East/The City

Modern Architecture

St Stephen Walbrook (p100) Walbrook (Map 10 D3) City & East/The City

Great Court (See museums)

Cemeteries Abney Park Cemetery (p173) Stoke Newington Church Street (£ Stoke Newington or 73 bus) North/Stoke Newington

Temple Church (pp168 & 98) Off Fleet Street (Map 10 A3) Centre/Holborn

Lord’s (p107) Wellington Road (1 St John’s Wood) North/St John’s Wood

Art & Architecture

Brompton Cemetery (p105) Lillie Road (Map 13 E4) West/Kensington Highgate Cemetery (p105) Swain’s Lane (1 Highgate) http://highgate-cemetery.org North/Highgate Kensal Green Cemetery (p105) (1 Kensal Green) www.kensalgreen.co.uk North/Kensal Green Nunhead Cemetery (p105) Linden Grove (£ Nunhead) South/Nunhead

Churches Brompton Oratory (p101) Brompton Road (Map 14 A2) West/Kensington St Bartholomew the Great (p103) West Smithfield (Map 10 B2) City & East/The City St Bride’s (p100) Fleet Street (Map 10 A3) www.stbrides.com Centre/Holborn St James’s Piccadilly (p100) 197 Piccadilly (Map 9 E4) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s St Margaret’s Church (p99) Sanctuary (Map 15 G1) Centre/Westminster & Pimlico

Barbican (See Combined Arts)

Laban Centre (See Dance)

Westminster Abbey (p96) Broad Sanctuary (Map 15 F1) Centre/Westminster & Pimlico

National Theatre (See Theatres)

Historic Buildings

RIBA (p97) 66 Portland Place (Map 8 D1) Centre/Fitzrovia

Banqueting House (p99) Whitehall (Map 9 G5) Centre/Westminster & Pimlico Buckingham Palace (p96) Buckingham Gate (Map 14 D1) Centre/Westminster & Pimlico Dennis Severs’ House (p104) 18 Folgate Street (Map 11 E1) City & East/Spitalfields & Whitechapel Eltham Palace (p113) Court Yard (£ Eltham) South Fenton House (p107) Windmill Hill (Map 1 A4) North/Hampstead Hampton Court Palace (p96) (£ Hampton Court) South/Hampton Court

2 Willow Road (p107) Hampstead (Map 1 c4) North/Hampstead

Museums British Museum (p13) Great Russell Street (Map 9 F2) Centre/Bloomsbury (See also Great Court) Design Museum (p110) 28 Shad Thames (Map 11 F5) South/Borough Dr Johnson’s House (p98) 17 Gough Square (Map 10 A2) Centre/Holborn Dulwich Picture Gallery (p112) Gallery Road (£ Dulwich) South/Dulwich

Kensington Palace (p96) Palace Avenue (Map 7 F5) West/Kensington & Earl’s Court

Estorick Collection (p106) 39 Canonbury Square (Map 4 B1) North/Islington

Linley Sambourne House (p102) 18 Stafford Terrace (Map 13 E1) West/Kensington

Freud Museum (p108) 20 Maresfield Gardens (1 Finchley Road) North/Hampstead

19 Princelet Street (p103) Spitalfields (Map 11 F1) City & East/Spitalfields & Whitechapel

Geffrye Museum (p105) Kingsland Road (Map 5 E4) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton

Kenwood House (p108) Hampstead Heath (Map 1 C1) North/Hampstead Leighton House Museum (p103) 12 Holland Pk Rd (Map 12 D1) West/Kensington Museum in Docklands (p106) West India Quay, www.museum indocklands.org.uk (£ W. India Quay DLR / 1 Canary Wharf) City & East/Wapping & Docklands Museum of the Order of St John (p104) St John’s Gate (Map 10 B1) City & East/Clerkenwell National Gallery (See Sainsbury Wing) National Portrait Gallery (p96) St Martin’s Place (Map 9 F4) Centre/Covent Garden Natural History Museum (p102) Exhibition Road (Map 13 H2) West/Kensington Old Operating Theatre (p110) 9a St Thomas’s St (Map 10 D5) South/Borough Queens Gallery (p96) Buckingham Pal Rd (Map 14 D1) Centre/Westminster & Pimlico Sackler Wing, RA (p100) Piccadilly (Map 9 E4) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Sainsbury Wing, National Gallery (p95) Trafalgar Square (Map 9 F4) Centre/Covent Garden Science Museum (p102) Exhibition Road (Map 13 H2) West/Kensington Sir John Soane’s Museum (p97) 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields (Map 9 H2) Centre/Holborn

St Mary-le-Bow (p100) Cheapside (Map 10 C3) www.stmarylebow.co.uk City & East/The City

Queen’s House (p112) Greenwich Park (Map 16 C2) South/Greenwich & Deptford

Great Court & Reading Room, British Museum (p98) Great Russell Street (Map 9 F2) Centre/Bloomsbury

Somerset House (p94) Strand (Map 9 H3) Centre/Covent Garden

St Olave’s (p169) Hart Street (Map 11 E3) City & East/The City

Tower of London (p96) Tower Hill (Map 11 F4) City & East/The City

Keats House (p108) Keats Grove (Map 1 C5) North/Hampstead

Tate Britain (p99) Millbank (Map 15 G3) Centre/Westminster & Pimlico

226

Click through to London’s art venues via

www.elondon.dk.com

Art & Architecture – Performance – Pubs Tate Modern (p111) Bankside (Map 10 B4) South/Borough

Tricycle (p129) 269 Kilburn High Rd (1 Kilburn) North/Kilburn

St John’s Smith Square (p122) Smith Square (Map 15 G2) Centre/Westminster & Pimlico

King’s Head Theatre Bar (p127) 115 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) North/Islington

Theatre Museum (p95) Russell Street (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden

Comedy

Scala (p126) 275 Pentonville Rd (Map 3 H4) Centre/Bloomsbury

Old Vic (p130) The Cut (Map 10 A5) South/South Bank

Shepherd’s Bush Empire (p123) Shepherd’s Bush Green (Map 6 A5) West/Shepherd’s Bush

Royal National Theatre (p129) South Bank (Map 9 H4) South/South Bank

V&A (p102) Exhibition Road (Map 13 H2) West/Kensington The Wallace Collection (p101) Manchester Square (Map 8 C2) Centre/Marylebone

Comedy Café (p125) 66–8 Rivington Street (Map 5 E5) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton Comedy Store (p121) 1a Oxendon Street (Map 9 F4) Centre/Soho Hackney Empire (See Theatres)

Performance Cinemas Curzon Soho (p120) 99 Shaftesbury Avenue (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho Electric Cinema (p123) 191 Portobello Road (Map 6 D3) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park Everyman (p128) 5 Holly Bush Vale (Map 1 A5) North/Hampstead NFT (p130) South Bank (Map 9 H4) South/South Bank Prince Charles Cinema (p121) 7 Leicester Place (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho Ritzy (p131) Brixton Oval (1 Brixton) South/Brixton

Combined Arts

Jongleurs (p128) Middle Yard Chalk Farm Road (Map 2 D2) North/Camden

Dance Laban (p130) Creekside (Map 16 A3) South/Greenwich & Deptford The Place (p122) 17 Duke’s Road (Map 3 F5) Centre/Bloomsbury Sadler’s Wells (p126) Rosebery Avenue (Map 4 A4) North/Islington

Music Venues Borderline (p119) Orange Yard, Manette Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho ENO @ The Coliseum (p119) St Martin’s Lane (Map 9 G4) Centre/Covent Garden Jazz Café (p127) 5 Parkway (Map 2 D3) North/Camden

606 Club (p123) 90 Lots Road (Map 13 G5) West/Chelsea & Fulham South Bank Centre (p129) Belvedere Rd/South Bank (Map 9 H4) South/South Bank (For National Theatre see Theatres; for NFT see cinemas) The Spitz (p124) Old Spitalfields Market (Map 11 F1) City & East/Spitalfields & Whitechapel 12 Bar Club (p119) 22–3 Denmark St (Map 9 F2) Centre/Covent Garden Union Chapel (p127) Compton Avenue (Map 4 B1) North/Islington Wigmore Hall (p122) 36 Wigmore Street (Map 8 C2) Centre/Marylebone

Theatres Almeida (p126) Almeida Street (Map 4 B2) North/Islington Arts Theatre (p119) Great Newport St (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden

BAC (p131) Lavender Hill (£ Clapham Jctn) South/Clapham

Mean Fiddler (p120) 168 Charing Cross Road (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho

Donmar Warehouse (p118) 41 Earlham Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden

Barbican (p124) Silk Street (Map 10 C1) City & East/The City

Ronnie Scott’s (p121) 47 Frith Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho

Hackney Empire (p125) Mare Street (Map 5 H1) City & East/Hackney

Riverside Studios (p124) Crisp Road (Map 12 A4) West/Hammersmith

Royal Opera House (p118) Bow Street (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden

Hampstead Theatre (p128) Eton Avenue (1 Swiss Cottage) North/Swiss Cottage

For parks and gardens, see p238 or look in the Index by area (pp210–19)

Shakespeare’s Globe (p130) Bankside (Map 10 C4) South/Borough Soho Theatre (p120) 21 Dean Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho

Pubs, Bars & Clubs Pubs Anchor Bankside (p152) 34 Park Street (Map 10 C4) South/Borough Black Friar (p144) 174 Queen Victoria St (Map 10 B3) City & East/The City Bread & Roses (p155) 68 Clapham Manor Street (1 Clapham North) South/Clapham The Bricklayer’s Arms (p162) 63 Charlotte Road (Map 5 E5) City & East/Shoreditch Blue Anchor (p154) 13 Lower Mall (1 Hammersmith) West/Hammersmith Coach & Horses (p144) 29 Greek Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho Crown Islington (p151) 116 Cloudesley Rd (Map 4 A3) North/Islington

227

Index by Type Pubs, Bars & Clubs Pubs continued The Dove (p154) 19 Upper Mall (1 Hammersmith) West/Hammersmith The Endurance (p138) 90 Berwick Street (Map 9 E3) Centre/Soho Fitzroy Tavern (p144) 16 Charlotte Street (Map 9 E2) Centre/Fitzrovia Founders Arms (p154) Bankside (Map 10 B4) South/Borough Freemason’s Arms (p153) 32 Downshire Hill (Map 1 C5) North/Hampstead French House (p139) 49 Dean Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho

Lamb & Flag (p137) 33 Rose Street (Map 9 G3) Centre/Covent Garden Market Porter (p163) 9 Stoney Street (Map 10 C4) South/Borough Nag’s Head (p141) 53 Kinnerton St (Map 14 B1) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia Pillars of Hercules (p144) 7 Greek Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho Pineapple (p151) 51 Leverton Street (1 Camden) North/Camden Pride of Spitalfields (p148) 3 Heneage Street (Map 11 F1) City & East/Spitalfields & Whitechapel Prince of Wales (p155) 38 Old Town (1 Clapham Common) South/Clapham

Bars The American Bar (p137) Savoy Hotel, Strand (Map 9 G4) Centre/Covent Garden Apartment 195 (p142) 195 King’s Road (Map 14 A4) West/Chelsea & Fulham

Fluid (p146) 40 Charterhouse St (Map 10 B1) City & East/Clerkenwell G-A-Y (p158) 30 Old Compton St (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho

Atlantic Bar & Grill (p137) 20 Glasshouse St (Map 9 E4) Centre/Soho

Golborne Grove (p143) 36 Golborne Road (Map 6 C1) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park

Bar Kick (p162) 127 Shoreditch High St (5 E5) City & East/Shoreditch

Gordon’s Wine Bar (p136) 47 Villiers Street (Map 9 G4) Centre/Covent Garden

Bar Rumba (p138) 36 Shaftesbury Ave (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho

Hoxton Square Bar & Kitchen (p147) 2–4 Hoxton Square (Map 5 E5) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton

Blue Bar (p142) Berkeley Hotel, Wilton Pl (14 B1) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia Bug Bar & Lounge (p154) St Matthews Church (1 Brixton) South/Brixton

Lobby Bar (p136) 1 Aldwych (Map 9 H3) Centre/Covent Garden

George Inn (p163) 77 Borough High St (Map 10 D5) South/Borough

Prospect of Whitby (p149) 57 Wapping Wall (1 Wapping) City & East/Wapping & Docklands

Globe Tavern (p163) Bedale Street (Map 10 D4) South/Borough

Royal Inn on the Park (p153) Grove Road (1 Bethnal Green) City & East/Hackney

Golden Hart (p149) 110 Commercial St (Map 11 F1) City & East/Spitalfields & Whitechapel

Royal Oak (p163) 44 Tabard Street (1 Borough) South/Borough

The Grapes (p149) 76 Narrow Street (1 Wapping) City & East/Wapping & Docklands

Spaniards Inn (p153) Spaniards Road (Map 1 B2) North/Hampstead

Dogstar (p154) 389 Coldharbour Lane (1 Brixton) South/Brixton

Mac Bar (p152) 102 Camden Road (Map 3 E2) North/Camden

Trafalgar Tavern (p155) Park Row (Map 16 C1) South/Greenwich & Deptford

Elbow Room (p162) 97–113 Curtain Rd (Map 5 E5) City & East/Shoreditch

Market Place (p140) 11 Market Place (Map 9 E2) Centre/Fitzrovia

White Cross (p154) Water Lane (£ 1 Richmond) South/Richmond

Embassy Bar (p150) 119 Essex Road (Map 4 B2) North/Islington

Mash (p140) 19–21 Great Portland St (8 D2) Centre/Fitzrovia

Jerusalem Tavern (p146) 55 Britton Street (Map 10 B1) City & East/Clerkenwell

Windmill (p153) Clapham Common (1 Clapham South) South/Clapham

The End (p141) 18 West Central St (Map 9 G2) Centre/Covent Garden

Medicine Bar (p150) 181 Upper Street (Map 4 B2) North/Islington

Lamb (p141) 94 Lamb’s Conduit St (Map 9 H1) Centre/Bloomsbury

Windsor Castle (p144) 114 Campden Hill Rd (Map 7 E5) West/Kensington

Escape Bar (p158) 10a Brewer Street (Map 9 E3) Centre/Soho

Mother (p147) 333 Old Street (Map 5 E5) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton

Greenwich Union (p155) 56 Royal Hill (Map 16 B3) South/Greenwich & Deptford Island Queen (p151) 87 Noel Road (Map 4 B3) North/Islington

228

Café Kick (p145) 43 Exmouth Market (Map 4 A5) City & East/Clerkenwell

Jerusalem (p139) 33–4 Rathbone Pl (Map 9 E2) Centre/Fitzrovia

Cargo (p146) 83 Rivington Street (Map 5 E5) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton Cherry Jam (p141) 58 Porchester Road (Map 7 F2) West/Bayswater & Paddington

Lock Tavern (p152) 35 Chalk Farm Rd (Map 2 D2) North/Camden Lonsdale (p143) 44–8 Lonsdale Rd (Map 6 D3) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park Loungelover (p149) 1 Whitby Street (Map 5 F5) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton

www.elondon.dk.com

Pubs, Bars & Clubs – Hotels The Player (p139) 8 Broadwick Street (Map 9 E3) Centre/Soho

Herbal (p147) 10–14 Kingsland Rd (Map 5 E4) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton

Dorset Square (p183) 39 Dorset Square (Map 8 B1) Centre/Marylebone

Pool (p162) 104–8 Curtain Road (Map 5 E5) City & East/Shoreditch

Madame Jo-Jos (p138) 8–10 Brewer Street (Map 9 E3) Centre/Soho

The Franklin (p184) 28 Egerton Gdns (Map 14 A2) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia

The Social (p140) 5 Little Portland St (Map 8 D2) Centre/Fitzrovia

Ministry of Sound (p153) 103 Gaunt Street (1 Elephant & Castle) South/Kennington

Great Eastern (p187) Liverpool Street (Map 11 E2) City & East/The City

Townhouse (p142) 31 Beauchamp Pl (Map 14 A1) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia Trailer H (p143) 177 Portobello Rd (Map 6 C2) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park Vertigo (p145) Level 42, Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St (Map 10 D2) City & East/The City

Notting Hill Arts Club (p144) 21 Notting Hill Gate (Map 7 E4) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park Substation South (p165) Trinity Road (1 Brixton) South/Brixton Turnmills (p146) 63a Clerkenwell Rd (Map 10 B1) City & East/Clerkenwell

Vibe Bar (p148) Old Truman Brewery, 91–5 Brick Lane (Map 11 F1) City & East/Spitalfields & Whitechapel

Vauxhall Tavern (p153) 372 Kennington Lane (Map 15 H4) South/Kennington

Zeta Bar (p140) Mayfair Hilton Hotel, 35 Hertford Street (Map 8 C5) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s

Hotels

Zigfrid (p162) 11 Hoxton Square (Map 5 E5) City & East/Shoreditch

Clubs 333 (p147) 333 Old Street (Map 5 E5) City & East/Shoreditch & Hoxton 93 Feet East (p148) 150 Brick Lane (Map 11 F1) City & East/Spitalfields & Whitechapel Fabric (p145) 77a Charterhouse St (Map 10 B1) City & East/Clerkenwell Fridge/Fridge Bar (p153) 1 Town Hall Parade (1 Brixton) South/Brixton Heaven (p136) Under the Arches, Villiers Street (Map 9 G4) Centre/Covent Garden

Expensive Blakes (p185) 33 Roland Gardens (Map 13 G3) West/Chelsea & Fulham Charlotte Street Hotel (p181) 15 Charlotte Street (Map 9 E2) Centre/Fitzrovia Claridge’s (p183) Brook St (Map 8 D3) www.savoygroup.com Centre/Mayfair & St James’s Covent Garden Hotel (p180) 10 Monm0uth St (Map 9 F3) Centre/Covent Garden Dorchester (p183) Park Lane (Map 8 C4) www.dorchesterhotel.com Centre/Mayfair & St James’s

Hazlitt’s (p181) 6 Frith Street (Map 9 F3) Centre/Soho The Metropolitan (p182) Old Park Lane (Map 8 C5) Centre/Mayfair & St James’s One Aldwych (p180) 1 Aldwych (Map 9 H3) Centre/Covent Garden Ritz (p183) 150 Piccadilly (Map 8 D4) www.theritzlondon.com Centre/Mayfair & St James’s The Rookery (p188) Peter’s La, Cowcross St (Map 10 B1) City & East/Clerkenwell The Savoy (p183) Strand (Map 9 G4) www.savoygroup.com Centre/Covent Garden

Moderate City Inn Westminster (p184) 30 John Islip Street (Map 15 F3) Centre/Westminster & Pimlico The Colonnade (p185) 2 Warrington Cres (Map 7 F1) West/Bayswater & Paddington Durrants (p182) George Street (Map 8 B2) Centre/Marylebone Five Sumner Place (p184) 5 Sumner Place (Map 13 H3) West/Chelsea & Fulham Hamilton House (p189) 14 West Grove (Map 16 C4) South/Greenwich & Deptford

London Bridge Hotel (p189) 8–18 London Bridge St (Map 10 D5) South/Borough Malmaison (p187) Charterhouse Sq (Map 10 B1) City & East/Clerkenwell Mercure London City Bankside (p189) 71–9 Southwark St (Map 10 B4) South/Borough Miller’s Residence (p186) 111a Westbourne Grove (Map 7 E3) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park The Portobello (p186) 22 Stanley Gardens (Map 6 D3) West/Notting Hill & Westbourne Park Topham Belgravia (p183) 28 Ebury Street (Map 14 D2) West/Knightsbridge & Belgravia The Zetter (p188) 86–8 Clerkenwell Road (Map 10 B1) City & East/Clerkenwell

Cheap Abbey House (p186) 11 Vicarage Gate (Map 7 E5) West/Kensington Crescent Hotel (p181) 49–50 Cartwright Gardens (Map 3 F5) Centre/Bloomsbury Dover Hotel (p183) 42–4 Belgrave Rd (Map 15 E3) Centre/Westminster & Pimlico La Gaffe (p188) 107–11 Heath Street (Map 1 A4) North/Hampstead Generator (p181) Compton Place (Map 3 G5) Centre/Bloomsbury Mayflower (p184) 26–8 Trebovir Rd (Map 13 E3) West/Kensington

£££ expensive ££ moderate £ cheap (Price ranges: Restaurants, see p25, Hotels, see p181)

229

Travel Information London’s Underground train (“Tube”) and bus networks are extensive and easy to navigate, though frequently crowded and subject to delays. A weekday Congestion Charge for drivers has recently been introduced in the centre of town. This has freed up traffic flow, making bus and taxi journeys noticeably quicker, and improving the atmosphere for cyclists and pedestrians. Numerous guided tours are available, and riverboats offer a fantastic way to see the city.

Advance Booking Option for Overseas Visitors Visitors planning to travel to London from Europe, the US, Australia and several other countries can purchase a Visitor Travelcard in advance through www.ticket-on-line.com. This covers unlimited travel on all trains,

Arrival

Stansted Airport

buses and the DLR, and there’s an

There are five international airports

Stansted Express trains depart from

option for the Heathrow Express. The

near London, of which Heathrow is the

the airport every 15–30 minutes; the

card is not available in the UK itself.

busiest. Waterloo is the terminal for

journey to Liverpool Street Station

trains coming from mainland Europe.

takes 45 minutes. There is also a stan-

London Underground

From these international points of

dard stopping train once an hour. The

The Underground network stretches to

entry there are various ways to travel

A6 coach into central London is a bit

275 stations across the city. Trains run

into central London.

cheaper but takes at least 90 minutes.

from about 5:30am to 11:30pm or

Heathrow Airport

Luton Airport

the oldest underground train network

The Heathrow Express train is the

The Thameslink train service runs from

in the world and usually offers the

fastest and most comfortable way to

the airport to a number of central city

quickest way to get around town.

travel into central London. Trains

stations, including Kings Cross, every

However, the ageing system is prone

depart every 15 minutes and take

5–10 minutes. The journey takes

to delays and over-crowding. Tickets

15–20 minutes to travel non-stop to

30–40 minutes.

are expensive in comparison with the

1am, depending on the line. This is

cost of subway travel in other major

Paddington Station. The cheapest option for time-rich travellers is a Tube

London City Airport

train (Piccadilly Line), which takes

A shuttle bus runs between this small

about an hour into central London.

airport and Liverpool Street Station,

zones radiating out from the city centre

You can also catch the A2 bus. A taxi

via Canary Wharf, every 10 minutes

(Zone 1) to the far reaches of Greater

into central London is the most

during peak hours. Otherwise, you

London (Zone 6). If you have missed

expensive option (about £45), unless

can take a taxi into town.

buying a Visitor Travelcard (see above),

world cities. Journeys are priced according to

there are various options, including

you are travelling in a group of five.

Waterloo International Terminal

the basic Travelcard, which covers

Gatwick Airport

Waterloo Station, on the South Bank

unlimited travel on the Tube, buses

Gatwick is about 30 miles south of

of the Thames, is served by the Under-

and DLR (Docklands Light Railway).

central London. The Gatwick Express

ground’s Bakerloo, Jubilee and Nor-

There are daily (available after

train usually runs every 15 minutes

thern Lines. There are also taxi ranks

9:30am), weekend or 7-day options.

and takes about 30 minutes to travel

and numerous bus stops outside.

If you’re travelling sporadically within Zone 1, buy a so-called “Carnet” of 10

non-stop to London’s Victoria Station. There are also slightly cheaper, stan-

Getting Around

dard stopping services into Victoria

Tube trains, buses and taxis are

and King’s Cross Stations. A taxi into

plentiful. Overland trains serve the

for more than a week, consider buying

London will cost about £100.

suburbs and beyond.

a rechargeable Oystercard

230

discounted single tickets. If you are travelling around London

For detailed, up-to-the minute travel information, visit

www.elondon.dk.com

Travel Information (www.oyster card.com). Holders of

Taxis

Oystercards need only touch the card

Classic black cabs are plentiful in

Directory

to the yellow pad on the turnstiles,

central London, but tariffs are high,

Airports

and can recharge at the pad on the

especially after 8pm and at weekends.

ticket machines.

Licensed minicabs (from offices) are

www.baa.co.uk (Heathrow, Gatwick & Stansted) www.londoncityairport.com

usually cheaper.

Buses Buses are cheaper than the Tube and

Other Forms of Transport

are a great way to get to see London,

Pedicabs (or rickshaws) congregate in

but try to avoid rush hours

Soho and some other areas, offering

(7:30– 9:30am and 5–7pm).

short hops. They are unregulated,

The flat fare is £1.20. In central London, you must buy a ticket before

though, and can be expensive. There are several riverboat services

Association of Professional Tourist Guides 020 7505 3073 www.aptg.org.uk

Black Cabs 020 7432 1432 www.londonradiocars.com www.dialacab.co.uk

Black Taxi Tours of London

boarding – look for a ticket machine at

along the Thames (see pp12 & 113) –

the bus stop or buy a booklet of six

Travelcard holders get one-third off

020 7935 9363 www.blacktaxitours.co.uk

discounted Saver tickets from Tube

the fare on some routes. Canalboats

Congestion Charge

stations and some newsagents. Night

are operated by The London Waterbus

0845 900 1234 / www.cclondon.com

buses operate 11pm–6am with a

Company. Trams are making a

Kairos in Soho

separate scale of fares.

comeback in some suburban areas.

020 7437 6063 www.kairosinsoho.org.uk

Car

Tours

London Open House

Driving around and parking in London

A qualified Blue Badge guide can be

is frustrating and expensive. A

booked for either a general sightsee-

Congestion Charge of £5 is levied on

ing tour or something tailor-made –

all cars travelling through the city

see the Association of Professional

centre between 7am and 6:30pm on

Tourist Guides’ website for individual

weekdays. “C” signs mark the

profiles or book through their recom-

boundaries of the Congestion

mended agency, Tour Guides Ltd.

020 7495 5504

Charging zone, and cameras record

Black Taxi Tours of London offers

Trains

every car. You can pay online (see

qualified tour guides too.

Heathrow Express 0845 600 1515 www.heathrowexpress.com

directory), or at selected newsagents

The Original London Walks is a

and garages. A hefty fine will be

good one to try for themed strolls –

issued if you fail to pay before

actors, experts and historians lead

midnight. Speeding, using bus lanes

tours such as Ghosts, Gaslight and

and stopping in box junctions also

Guinness, or Jack the Ripper Haunts in

attract fines.

the East End. Wellbeing centre Kairos

Parking is restricted almost every-

in Soho offers a historical walking tour

www.londonopenhouse.org

The London Waterbus Company 020 7482 2660 www.londonwaterbus.com

The Original London Walks 020 7624 3978 / www.walks.com

Tour Guides Ltd

Gatwick Express 0845 850 1530 www.gatwickexpress.com National Rail Enquiries 08457 484950 www.nationalrail.co.uk Stansted Express 0845 850 0150 www.stanstedexpress.co.uk

where. Read street parking signs

of Gay and Lesbian Soho. London

Thameslink www.thameslink.co.uk

carefully or you’ll probably return to a

Open House runs Saturday-morning

Transport for London

penalty notice or clamped wheel.

tours led by architects and historians.

It’s best to use NCP car parks

Consult Time Out magazine for other

The Tube, buses, DLR, taxis, riverboats & trams 020 7222 1234 / www.tfl.gov.uk

(www.ncp.co.uk) if in doubt.

unusual themed walks.

The Docklands Light Railway (DLR) is part of the Underground network

231

Practical Information The information and tips here should help you have a stress-free visit to London. Some forward planning is often beneficial – start with the websites offering tourist information and listing events. Visitors with special needs, such as wheelchair users, are supported by a number of dedicated organizations, and gay and lesbian travellers are particularly well catered for in this city.

Listings/What’s On Time Out is London’s hippest and most comprehensive weekly listings magazine, covering new shops and restaurants as well as arts and entertainment. It has an online guide, www.timeout.com/london.

Disabled Travellers

See the Hospital Charges website for

Recent changes to the Disability

full details of exemptions.

Discrimination Act require anyone who

If you require an emergency

Metro Life, free with Thursday’s Evening Standard newspaper, is a good guide to goings-on in the city. It is affiliated to www.thisislondon.com.

provides a service to the public to

prescription or less urgent medical

make it accessible to disabled people,

attention, the private Medicentre

within reason. Equal-access campaigner

chain offers walk-in clinics. Branches

Saturday, rounds up London listings

Artsline has a constantly expanding

are located in train stations, central

in a handy format.

online database listing over 400 arts

London and the City.

and entertainment venues and their

If you need advice outside clinic

The Knowledge, in The Times on

Money

provisions for sensory-impaired people

hours, call Doctors Direct to arrange a

There’s no shortage of bureaux de

and wheelchair users. A factsheet

home visit or refer to the NHS Direct

change in the city, but you may get a

from Greater London Action on

website’s useful self-help guide.

better exchange rate if you use your

Disability gives details of what to

Pharmacies are a good first stop

bank or credit card to obtain cash

expect at well-known tourist attractions,

for minor ailments. For late-night

from ATMs. The practice of keying in

and another lists accessible hotels.

prescriptions, Bliss Pharmacy is open

your PIN number rather than signing a

until midnight, while Zafash is

credit card slip at point of purchase is

London’s only 24-hour pharmacy.

being introduced in many businesses.

without using stairs or escalators. For

Gay & Lesbian Travellers

Opening Hours

a copy of Access to the Underground,

Soho is London’s pink mecca, with

London closes early in comparison with

call 020 7941 4600. Buses are better

the highest concentration of bars,

cities such as New York or Paris. Most

– over 90% of the bus fleet has

clubs and gay-oriented shops. There

shops are open from 10am–6pm

wheelchair access.

is an established scene in Brixton,

Monday to Saturday, staying open an

and nightspots have also sprung up

hour or two later on Wednesday or

Emergencies & Health

in Vauxhall. Free pink paper Boyz,

Thursday. Many open from noon to

In the event of a serious accident,

available in gay bars and businesses

5pm or 6pm on Sunday. Some major

medical emergency, fire or criminal

and online, features London listings.

department stores, such as Harvey

incident requiring urgent assistance,

The Gay Times website has useful

Nichols and Selfridges, stay open

call 999 and specify ambulance, fire

links to services from arts centres and

until 8pm every week night.

service or police. Calls from any

bars to shops and support, while

phone, including payphones, are free.

lesbian magazine Diva offers online

or midnight (last servings 10–10:30),

Citizens of the European Economic

area-by-area mini guides. The London

and pubs call “time” at 11pm, 10:30pm

Area and countries with a bilateral

Lesbian and Gay Switchboard has a

on Sundays (the law changed in 2005,

healthcare agreement with the UK are

24-hour helpline. For recommended

technically allowing longer hours).

exempt from hospital A&E charges.

bars and clubs, see p134.

Bars with extended opening hours

Improvements to the accessibility of the Tube are in progress, but at present only 40 stations can be reached

232

Restaurants tend to close at 11pm

Check out the weather forecast at

www.elondon.dk.com

Practical Information usually offer some form of enter-

your bag close to the front of your

tainment, such as live music or DJs.

body and your wits about you. Mobile

Directory

Most nightclubs close at 3am, though

phone theft is common, particularly

Artsline

some stay open until 6am at weekends.

from just outside Tube stations. Be

020 7388 2227 www.artslineonline.com

Banks are open from 9:30am to

alert when using ATMs, as they have

3:30pm or 4:30pm Monday to Friday,

been the target of various scams.

and post offices from 9am to 5:30pm

Don’t use a machine that looks

on weekdays. Some banks and post

unusual, such as any that seem to be

offices are open on Saturday morning.

fitted with extra attachments. Make

Bliss Pharmacy 5-6 Marble Arch, W1 (Map 8 B3)

Britain and London Visitor Centre

sure no-one behind you can see while

1 Regent Street, SW1 (Map 9 E4) 020 8846 9000 • www.visitbritain.com

Phones and Communications

you key in your PIN. Unlicensed

Directory Enquiries

minicabs also pose many dangers,

118 118 •118 500 • 118 180 • 118 888

Public telephones may be less

especially to single women. Never

Doctors Direct

plentiful than they once were because

accept a lift from a driver touting for

of the proliferation of mobile phones,

fares on the street.

020 7751 9701 www.doctorsdirect.co.uk

Emergency Services

but they have become more

999

sophisticated. At BT Internet kiosks,

Tipping

you can surf the Internet, send and

As a guide, if service has been good,

receive emails, or send a video text

give 10–15 per cent to waiters (unless

message as well as make a phone

a service charge has already been

call. For long-distance calls, it’s worth

added to the bill), hairdressers,

buying an international phone card,

beauty therapists and taxi drivers. It is

available from newsagents, which

not customary to tip in pubs, even if

gives you an access number and code

you order food, but tipping is

Greater London Action on Disability

for a cheaper rate.

becoming more common in posh

www.glad.org.uk

cocktail bars that employ expert

Hospital Charges

Europe and Australia operate on GSM

“mixologists”. In hotels, £1–2 is a

900MHz or 1800MHz frequency bands.

standard tip for luggage porters.

www.publications.doh.gov.uk/ overseasvisitors/index.htm

Most mobile phones in the UK,

Gay & Lesbian 020 7837 7324 (24-hour helpline) www.llgs.org.uk www.gaytimes.co.uk www.gaylondon.com www.divamag.co.uk www.timeout.com/london

London Information Centre

Visitors from the US and Canada will need a tri-band phone to connect with

Tourist Information

a UK network – check with your

London’s official tourist organization

service provider before travelling.

is Visit London. Its excellent website

Leicester Square, W1 (Map 9 F4) 020 7292 2333 www.londoninformationcentre.com www.londontown.com

contains a comprehensive directory,

Medicentre

(www.easyeverything.com) dominates

including bureaux de change, Internet

the drop-in web-surfing scene, but the

cafés and hospitals. There are also

0870 600 0870 www.medicentre.co.uk

city is dotted with numerous small

sections for gay and lesbian, and

Internet cafés.

disabled visitors. The official Britain

The easyInternetcafé chain

and London Visitor Centre is near

Security

Piccadilly Circus. The privately run

Crowded pubs, train stations and

London Information Centre in

shops are prime spots for bag-

Leicester Square operates in tandem

snatchers and pickpockets, so keep

with www.londontown.com.

Whatever the weather, carry an umbrella!

NHS Direct 0845 4647 • www.nhsdirect.nhs.uk

Visit London www.visitlondon.com

Zafash Pharmacy 233–5 Old Brompton Rd, SW5 (Map 13 G3)

233

General Index 2 Willow Road 107

Art Galleries 15, 110, 225

Brockwell Lido 14

Chinese New Year 10

12-Bar Club 117, 119

Arts Theatre 119

Brompton Cemetery 105

Chisenhale Gallery 110

19 Princelet Street 103

ARTWORDS 162

Brompton Oratory 101

The Chocolate Society 76

93 Feet East 135, 148, 160

Atlantic Bar & Grill 137

Browns 59, 70

Churches 226

Brunch in Notting Hill 13

Chutney Mary 40

202 (shop) 80 333 (club) 147

B

Buckingham Palace 96

Cinemas 15, 227

606 Club 117, 123

b Store 59, 67

Bug Bar & Lounge 154, 165

Cinnamon Club 37

BAC 131

Bunhill Fields Burial Ground 169

City Inn Westminster 184

A

Bagels 19

Bunny London 91

Claridge’s 178

Abbey House 179, 186

Banqueting House 96, 99

Burberry 69

Classical Music Venues 116, see

Abney Park Cemetery 105, 173

Bar & Kitchen 147

Burro 60

Accessories 225

Barbican 124

Busaba Eathai 43

The Admiralty 94

Bar Italia 19, 158

Buses 233

The Agency 110, 162

Bar Kick 162

A Gold 59, 87

Bar Rumba 138

C

Clubbing 17, 18, 135

Adam, Robert 108

Bars 227–8

Café Corfu 50

Clubs 228

After Noah 89

Bed 159

Café Emm 23, 25

Club Gascon 47

Afternoon Tea 15

Bedstock 83

Café Grove 159

Coach & Horses 16, 144

Agent Provocateur 67

Beigel Bake 19

Café Kick 145

Cocktails 17, 135

Agnès B 60

Belgo 43

Cafés 220

Cock Tavern 12

Airports 232

Berkeley Square 108

Café Spice Namaste 46

Coco de Mer 61

Albion 153

Bibendum Oyster Bar 17

Calder Bookshop 91

Coco Ribbon 84

Al Sultan 34

Bill Amberg 81

Calmia 73

Coin Street Festival 11

Al Waha 43

Birdcage 161

Camden Arts Centre 106

Collins & Son 62

All Saints 62

Black & Blum 91

Camden Head 90

The Colonnade 185

Almeida 116, 126

Black Friar 135

Camden Lock 163

Columbia Road Market 13, 161

The American Bar 137

Blackwell’s 65

Camden Passage 58, 90

Combined Arts Venues 227

Anchor Bankside 154, 164

Blakes 178, 185

Camisa 158

Comedy Venues 17, 117, 227

Andrew Edmunds 22, 24

Bleinhem Books 159

Camper 60

Comedy Café 117, 125

Anello & Davide 72

Bloomsbury Square 108

Canary Wharf 106

Comedy Store 17, 117, 121

Anna 90

Blue Anchor 154

Cantaloupe 162

Comfort & Joy 88

Annie’s Vintage Clothes 90

Blue Bar 135, 142

Cantina Vinopolis 163

Communications 230

Antiquarius 80

Blueprint Café 52

Le Caprice 31

Concerts

Any Amount of Books 65

Boat Trips 12, 113, 233

Cargo 17, 146

Lunchtime Recitals 14

Anya Hindmarch 76

Bodean’s 24

Carluccio’s 72

Morning Coffee Concerts 13

Anything Left-Handed 67

Bodo Sperlein 91

Caroline Carrier’s 90

Apartment 195 142

Bookshops 222

Cecconi’s 31

The Conran Shop 58, 78

The Approach 15, 110

Borderline 116, 119

Cecil Court 64

Contemporary Art, see Art Galleries

aQuaint 59, 61

Borders 65

Cemeteries 105, 226

Contemporary Wardrobe 63

Aquarium, see London Aquarium

Borough Market 163

Chain Restaurants 43

Courtauld Institute of Art

Aram 58, 60

Bread & Roses 155

Chain Stores 85

Aria 89

Breakfast at Smithfield 12

Champagne 17

Courtauld, Stephen 113

Arkansas Café 160

Brick Lane 160

Champor-Champor 52

Covent Garden Hotel 179, 180

Artcadia 87

Bricklayer’s Arms 162

Charing Cross Road 65

The Cow 160

Art & Architecture 20–55

The Bridge House Canal

Charlotte Street Hotel 181

Crescent Hotel 178, 181

Chelsea Flower Show 10

Cricket 131

British Museum 13, 98

Chelsea Physic Gardens 171

The Cross 85

Brixton 165

Cherry Jam 17, 134, 141

The Crown, Clerkenwell 16

Brixton Academy 165

Cheshire Street 88

The Crown, Islington 22, 134, 151

Brixtonian Havan Club 165

Chez Bruce 55

Curries 19

For art & architecture listed by area, see pp212–19 For art & architecture listed by type, see pp225–7 The Art Boat 100, 113

234

Theatre Café 171

also Concerts and Music Venues Clothes Shops, see Fashion Boutiques Club 333 18

South Bank 18

Gallery 94

A–H Curzon Soho 120

Embassy Bar 150

French House 135, 144, 158

Great Eastern Dining Room 48

The Cut 91

Emergencies 230–31

Freud Museum 108

Great Eastern Hotel 178, 187

Cutty Sark 174

Empire 123

Fridge/Fridge Bar 134, 153, 165

Green Papaya 48

Cyberdog 62

The End 141

Frieze Art Fair 11

Greenwich 113, 174

The Endurance 138

La Fromagerie 74

Greenwich Park 174

D

ENO @ The Coliseum 119

Fujiyama 165

Greenwich Union 134

Dakota 13

Entertainment, see Performance

Future Systems 107

Greyhound Racing 16

Dance Venues 116, 227

Erickson Beamon 76

Daunt Books 74

The Escape Bar 158

G

David Drummond 64

Estorick Collection 106

Gabriel’s Wharf 164

Dennis Severs’ House 18, 104

Everyman 128

La Gaffe 188

H

Department Stores 79, 222

Exhibition Road 102

Gagosian 110

Hackney Empire 117, 125

Design Museum 110

Exhibition spaces, see Art Galleries

La Galette 36

Hackney Marshes 15

Galicia 159

Hakkasan 23, 27

Designers Guild 80

Grimshaw, Nicholas 107 Guided Tours 14, 233

Diesel 60

F

Galleries, see Art Galleries

Hamilton House 178, 189

Dining Room 40

Fabric 18, 135, 145

Gallipoli 49

Hampstead Heath 172

Directory Enquiries 231

Falkiner Fine Papers 63

Gastropubs 221

Hampstead Theatre 128

Disabled Travellers 231

Farmacia 168

The Gate 41

Hampton Court Palace 12, 96, 113

The Dispensary 68

Fashion boutiques 222–4

Gatwick Airport 232

Hampton Court Flower Show 10

DJ Bars 19, 134

FCUK 85

G-A-Y 158

Harrods 79

Dr Johnson’s House 98

Fenton House 107

Gay and Lesbian Travellers 231

Harvey Nichols 17, 79

Dog & Duck 16

Fenwick 79

Gay Bars & Clubs 134

Havens 166–75

Dogstar 154, 165

Festival Hall 18, 116, 129

Gay Hussar 158

Hayward Gallery 109, 164

Donmar Warehouse 116, 118

Fifteen 34

Gay’s the Word 64

Hazlitt’s 179, 181

Donzoko 24

Fifth Floor Restaurant, Harvey

Geffrye Museum 105

Hazuki 31

Generator 181

Health & Beauty Shops 224

George Inn 163

Heaven 134, 136

The Dorchester 178 Dorset Square 183 The Dove 154

Nichols 17 Film, see cinemas, London Film Festival & NFT

George’s Portobello Fish Bar 159

Heathrow Airport 232

Dover Hotel 179, 183

Fino 28

George IV 165

Henry Pordes 65

Dovetail 16

Fish! 163

Georgian Squares 108

Herbal 18, 135, 147

The Drapers Arms 49

Fish Central 22, 45

Georgina Goodman 69

Hermitage Rooms 94

Dream Bags/Jaguar Shoes 162

Fitzroy Tavern 144

Gerry’s 66

Herzog & de Meuron 111, 130

Duchamp 82

Five Sumner Place 184

Gilbert Collection 94

Highgate Cemetery 105, 173

Duke of Cambridge 15

Flâneur Food Hall 45

Gill Wing 89

Highgate Woods 173

Dulwich Picture Gallery 112

The Flask 173

Giraffe 43

Hilton, London Docklands 189

Durrants 182

Floral Street 60

Globe, see Shakespeare’s Globe

Hirst, Damien 100

Florists 224

Globe Tavern 163

Historic Buildings 226

E

Fluid 146

Gloria’s Super Deluxe 160

Holiday Inn Express 179, 189

The Eagle 22, 44

Foliage 37

Golborne Grove 143, 159

Holland Park 170

Eagle Bar Diner 27

Food Shops 224

Golden Heart 149

Honest Jon’s 83

E&O 42

Football 15, 131

Golden Hind 34

Hopkins, Michael 107

Earlham Street 62

For Design Sake 91

Golden Square 108

Horseshoe 16

Eatmyhandbagbitch 64

Forbidden Planet 63

Goldfinger, Ernö 107

Hospitals 230–31

Ecapital 25

Fortnum & Mason 79

Gordon Ramsay 34

Hotels 176–189

Elbow Room 161

Foster, Norman 98, 100

Gordon’s Wine Bar 136

Bookings & Reservations 186

Elemis Day Spa 169

Founders Arms 154

Graham & Green 58, 85, 90

Top Choices 178–9

Electric Cinema 15, 123, 159

Fox & Anchor 12

Grammex 91

For hotels listed by area,

Elizabeth Street 76

Foyles 65

The Grapes 154

Eltham Palace 96, 113

The Franklin 179, 184

Great Court & Reading Room,

El Parador 50

Freemason’s Arms 153

British Museum 98

see pp213–19 For hotels listed by price category, see p229

235

General Index The House 22, 49

Keats House 108

London Underground 232

Medicine Bar 150

Houses of Parliament 113

Kensal Green Cemetery 105

Lonsdale 143

Mercure London City Bankside 189

Hoxton 162

Kensington Gardens 169

Lord’s 107

Mesón Don Felipe 53

Hoxton Boutique 86

Kensington Palace 96

Lots Road Pub & Dining Room 40

Metropolitan 178, 182

Hoxton Square Bar & Kitchen 162

Kenwood House 108

Loungelover 134, 149

Miller’s Residence 178, 186

Hunan 38

Kew Gardens 12, 113, 175

Lower Marsh 91

Miller Harris 81

Hyde Park 16, 169

Kiehl’s 61

Lucky 7 160

Mimi 88

Kiku 33

Lulu Guiness 58, 77

Ministry of Sound 153

I

King’s Head Theatre Bar 17, 127

ICA 17, 96

Kirk Original 60

M

Mô 23, 34

Ichiban 165

Koh Samui 61

Mac Bar 152

Modern Architecture 226

Indian Head Massage 168

Kokon To-Zai 66

Madame Jo-Jos 138, 158

Money 230

Inexterior 88

Korres 79

Madeleine Press 74

Monmouth Street 61

Inigo Jones 99, 112

Kovolam 52

Magic Wok 43

Moro 23, 44

Inn the Park 15

Ktchn 162

Magma 62

Mother/333 147

Maharishi 60

Mulberry 69, 72 Museum in Docklands 106

Interiors Shops 224

Mint 58, 73

Intoxica! 83

L

Malmaison 179, 187

Island Queen 151

Laban Centre 116, 130

Mana 51

Museum Late Nights 16

Itsu 43

Labour and Wait 88

Mango Room 51

Museum of the Order of St John 104

Iveagh Bequest, see Kenwood House

Labour of Love 89

Marchpane 64

Museums 226–7

The Ivy 34

The Lamb 134, 141

Margaret Howell 72

Music Shops 224–5

Lamb & Flag 16, 135, 137

Maria Grachvogel 75

Music Venues 116–17, 227

J

The Lansdowne 15, 51

Marilyn Moore 84

J&M Davidson 81

Lara Bohinc 86, 107

Marimekko 72

N

James Smith & Sons 59, 63

Laxeiro 161

Mar i Terra 24

Nag’s Head 141

Jazz Café 19, 117, 127

Leighton House Museum 103

Market Bar 159

National Film Theatre (NFT) 130,

Jazz Venues 19, 117

Lesbian Travellers 231

Market Coffee House 161

Jerusalem 139

Les Senteurs 75

Market Place 140

National Gallery 95

Jerusalem Tavern 146

Liberty 68

Market Porter 163

National Portrait Gallery 96

Jerwood Space 109

Lina Stores 158

Markets

National Theatre, see Royal

Jess James 68

Lindsay House 22, 26

Borough 163

Jigsaw 85

Lingerie 224

Brick Lane 160

Jimmy Choo 58, 77

Linley Sambourne House 102

Camden Lock 163

Navarro’s 23, 28

John Lewis 79

Lisboa Patisserie 23, 42, 159

Columbia Road 162

Neal’s Yard Dairy 59, 62

Johnson, Dr 98

Lisson 110

Northcote Road 165

Neisha Crosland 77

Jo Malone 75

Listings Magazines 230

Portobello 159

Nelson’s Head 161

Jones 60

Little Venice 12, 171

Spitalfields 162

Neon 165

Jones, Inigo 99, 112

Livebait 53

Marks & Spencer 85

Newburgh Street 68

Jongleurs 17, 128

Lobby Bar 17, 135, 136

Mar Mar Co 88

NFT (National Film Theatre)

Joseph 58, 77

Locanda Locatelli 34

Maroush Gardens 36

J Sheekey 22, 31

Lock Tavern 15, 152, 153

Marriott 189

Nicole Farhi 60

Jubilee Photographica 90

Loch Fyne Oyster Bar 163

Masala Zone 43

Nigel Williams 64

Judith Lasalle 90

London Aquarium 113

Mash 140

Nobu 34

Junky 160

London Bridge Hotel 178, 189

Mass 165

Northcote Road 165

JW Beeton 82

London City Airport 232

Masters Super Fish 53

Notting Hill Arts Club 17, 135,

London Eye 18, 113

Matsuri 29

K

London Film Festival 11

Matt’s Gallery 110

Notting Hill Carnival 11, 17

Karen Millen 85

London Garden Squares Weekend

Mayflower 184

Noura 38

MCC Museum 107

N Peal 70

Mean Fiddler 120

Nunhead Cemetery 105

Kate Kuba 79 Kaya 33

236

108 London Marathon 10

164

National Theatre Natural History Museum 102

130, 164

144

H–S O

Patrick Cox 75

The Oak 160

Paul 23, 29

Clubs 228

Riverboat Services 12, 113, 233

Odette’s 22, 50

Paul Rothe 73

Notorious Pubs & Literary

The River Café 41

Oki-ni 59, 68

Paul Smith 58, 60, 84

Old Observatory, Greenwich 174

Performance 114–31

Pubs, Bars & Clubs (cont.)

Haunts 144

Ritzy 131, 165

Riverside Studios 124

Riverside Pubs 154

Rivington Bar and Grill 161

Old Operating Theatre 110

Top Choices 116–17

Top Choices 134–5

Rock & Sole Plaice 29

Old Red Lion 17

For performance venues listed by

For pubs, bars and clubs listed

Rock Archive 90

Old Royal Naval College 174 Old Vic 130 Oliver Sweeney 79

area, see pp212–19 For performance venues listed by type, see p227

by area, see pp213–19

Rokit 59, 88

Purcell Room 18, 129

Ronnie Scotts 19, 117, 121

Putney Bridge 55

The Rookery 188

One Aldwych 178, 180

Persiflage 59

Open Garden Squares Weekend 10

Le Petit Max 55

Q

Rough Trade 81

Open House Weekend 11

Philip Treacy 58, 76

Queen Elizabeth Hall 18, 129

Royal Academy 100

Opening Hours 231

Phoenix Palace 36

Queen’s Gallery 96

Royal Festival Hall 18, 116, 129

Opera Holland Park 10

Phonica 67

Queen’s House 96, 112

Royal Inn on the Park 153

Opera House, see Royal Opera

Photographers’ Gallery 95

Queen’s Square 108

Royal National Theatre

Pillars of Hercules 144

Quinto 65

House

Rosa’s 160

116, 129, 164

Orangery, Kensington Gardens 170

Pineapple 151

Orangery, Kew 175

PJ Hilton 64

R

Royal Opera House 116, 118

Orange Tree Theatre 17

The Place 116, 122

Rachel Skinner 90

The Royal Parks 169

Origin 90

The Player 139

Racine 39

Royal Sights 96

Original London Walks 100, 223

The Poetry Café 118

Radio Days 91

Rugby 131

Original Tagines 36

Poilane 76

Rail Terminals 232

Rules 22, 30

The Orrery 35

Pool 161

Randall & Aubin 17, 158

Oshobasho Café 173

Porchester Spa 15, 170

Ransome’s Dock 55

S

Osprey 72

Portobello Green 59, 83, 159

Rasa Samudra 28

Saatchi Gallery 109, 113

Outdoor Concerts 10

The Portobello 178, 186

Ray’s Jazz 65

Sackler Wing, RA 100

Oxo Tower Restaurant, Bar &

Portobello Road 13, 159

The Reading Room, British

Sadie Coles HQ 110

Brasserie 22, 54, 91

Poste 70

Royal Oak 163

Museum 98

Sadler’s Wells 116, 126

Oxo Tower Wharf 91

Poste Mistress 61

The Real Greek 48

Oysters 17

Practical Information 230–31

Red Fort 27

Preen 83

Red Hot 83

St Bartholomew the Great 103

P

Sainsbury Wing, National Gallery 95

Prestat 75

Red Dot 68

St Bride’s 14, 100

The Painted Heron 40

Pride London 11

Regent’s Park 13, 169

St Christopher’s Place 72

El Parador 50

Pride of Spitalfields 134, 148

Rellik 85

St James’s Piccadilly 14, 100

Parks & Gardens

Primrose Hill Shopping 90

REN 69

St John 22, 46

Bunhill Fields 169

Primrose Hill Books 90

Restaurants 20–55

St James’s Park 169

Chelsea Physic Garden 171

Prince Charles Cinema 121

Cafés 220

St James’s Square 108

Greenwich Park 174

19 Princelet Street 103

Chain Restaurants 43

St John’s Smith Square

Hampstead Heath 172

Prince of Wales 155

Gastropubs 221

Highgate Woods 173

Pringle 69

Hottest Tables 34

St Margaret’s Church 96, 99, 113

Holland Park 170

Prints & Posters 225

Top Choices 22–3

St Martin-in-the-Fields 14

Kew Gardens 175

The Proms 11

Vegetarian 222

St Mary-le-Bow 14, 100

Temple 168

Prospect of Whitby 154

For restaurants listed by area,

St Olave’s 169

Victoria Embankment

The Providores/Tapa Room 23, 35

Gardens 168

Public Beware 160

Parliament Hill Lido 12

Pubs 228–9

Patara 33

Pubs, Bars & Clubs 132–55

see pp210–18 For restaurants listed by cuisine, see pp220–22

116, 122

St Paul’s Cathedral 100 St Stephen Walbrook 100 Saloon 86

RIBA 97

S&M Café 23, 42

Patisserie Valerie 23, 26, 158

Bars 227–8

Richmond 12

Sardo 29

Patogh 37

Beer Gardens 144

The Ritz 183

Satay Bar 165

237

General Index Satay House 43

South London Gallery 110

Three Kings 16

Vintage Fashion 59

The Savoy 183

Southwark Cathedral 164

Thyme 25

Vinyl Junkies 158

Scala 126

Space.NK 80

Tickets

Visit London 231

Scent Systems 68

Spaniards Inn 153

Sporting Events 131

W

Science Museum 102

Spitalfields Market 14, 161

Scorah Pattullo 89

Spitz 124

Tindley & Chapman 64

Wagamama 43

Seasonal Events 10–11

Spymaster 70

The Tintin Shop 60

Walks 12, 13, 16

Security 230

Spas & Treatments

Tipping 231

West End Shows 120

see also Hampstead Heath, Tours

Selectadisc 158

Elemis 169

Tom Aikens 39

Selfridges 71, 79, 80, 202

Farmacia 168

Tongue & Groove 165

The Wallace Collection 101

Porchester Hall 170

Les Senteurs 75

and Original London Walks

Tonic 82

Walthamstow Stadium 16

Serpentine Gallery 101

Spaniards Inn 153

Tophams Belgravia 183

Wapping Project Space 105

Serpentine Lido 12

Stage Door Prints 64

Topshop 68

Waterloo International Rail

Shakespeare’s Globe 130, 164

Stansted Airport 232

Tourist Information 230

Shelf 88

Stella McCartney 58, 70

Tours 14, 233

Weekend Café 173

Shepherd’s Bush Empire 117, 123

Stephen Friedman 110

Tower of London 96

The Wells 51

Shipley 65

Stingray Global Café 161

Townhouse 142

The Westbourne 160

Shipley Media 65

Storey’s 64

Tracey Boyd 76

Westbourne Park 160

Shoes & Accessories 225

Story 87

Trade at Turnmills 134

West End Shows, see Theatres

Shop 66

Strada 43

Trafalgar Tavern 135, 155, 174

Westminster Abbey 96, 99, 113

Shopping 56–91

Streetlife 156–65

Trailer H 135, 143

What the Butler Wore 91

Chain Stores 85

Studio Perfumery 90

Transport 232–3

The Wheatsheaf 163

Department Stores 79

Stüssy 62

Transport for London 233

Whistles 72

Top Choices 58–9

StyleLab 60

Travel Bookshop 159

White Cross 154

Traditional British Brands 69

Substation South 165

Travel Cards 232

White Cube 110, 162

For shops listed by area,

The Sugar Club 25

Travel Inn 179, 189

Whitechapel Gallery 104

Suite 20, 83

Tricycle 116, 129

The Whopee Club 19

Sutton Arms 45

Tsunami 23, 54

Wigmore Hall 13, 116, 122

Swimming 12

The Tube 232

Wild at Heart 160

Turnmills 18

The Wild Bunch 62

twentytwentyone 89

Wilkinson Gallery 15, 110

see pp210–19 For shops listed by type, see pp222–5 Showroom 15

Terminal 232

Silver Moon, see Foyles

T

Simon Finch Rare Books 82

Tamarind 33

Sir John Soane’s Museum 18, 97

Tapa Room 35

U

2 Willow Road 107

Tas 23, 53

The Underground 232

Windmill 153

Sixty 6 73

Tate Britain 99, 100, 113

Union Chapel 127

Windsor Castle 144

Size? 62

Tate Modern 16, 100, 111, 113

Upper Street 89

The Wolseley 15, 32

Skandium 74

Tatty Devine 88

Urban Outfitters 62

Wong Kei 25

Sketch 15, 34

Taxis 233

Smallfish Records 87

Ted Baker 60

V

Wren, Christopher 100, 174

Smiths of Smithfield 45

Telephones 230

V&A 16, 102

Wren’s London 100

Smythson 59, 69

Temple 168

Vauxhall Tavern 134

Soane, Sir John 18, 97, 112

Temple Church 98, 168

Vertigo (bar) 145

Y

The Social 17, 134, 140

Tendido Cero 40

Vertigo (shop) 60

Yo! Sushi 43

Soho 158

Tennis 131

Vibe Bar 134, 148, 160

Soho Square 108

Thames, see Riverboat Services

Victoria Embankment Gardens 168

Z

Soho Theatre 120

Theatre Bars 17, 127

Victorian Cemeteries 105

Zafferano 39

Somerset House 94

Theatre Museum 95

Viet Hoa 23, 48

Zeta Bar 240

Somerset House Ice Rink 11

Theatres 116, 227

Vilma Gold 15

Zetter 179, 188

Vinopolis 163, 164

Zigfrid 162

Vintage 66

Zuma 39

see also Soane, Sir John

South Bank 17, 18, 164 South Bank Centre 129, 164

238

Buying Tickets 120 Thomas Neal Centre 62

Willma 84

Woodhams 76

Acknowledgements Contributors

Max Alexander is a New Zealander by birth, but has

Jonathan Cox is a writer, editor and photographer who

been based in London since 1987. As a freelance

has worked for a wide range of publications, including

photographer, he has worked on a large number of

the Sunday Times and the Time Out London Eating Guide.

prestigious publications, travelling extensively to

He edited Time Out’s guide to Weekend Breaks.

produce 15 travel guides for DK. He has recently

For e>>guide London, he wrote the Restaurants chapter.

completed a book on Bordeaux & its Wines for Duncan Baird Publishers.

Lisa Ritchie is an American based in London, and has written for various magazines and newspapers,

Produced by Blue Island Publishing

including Time Out and the Evening Standard.

www.blueisland.co.uk

Lisa was deputy editor of Time Out Shopping Guide

Editorial Director Rosalyn Thiro

2004. For e>>guide London, she wrote the Shopping and

Art Director Stephen Bere

Hotels chapters, as well as the Practical, Travel,

Editor Jane Simmonds

Seasonal and Top Choices sections.

Editorial Assistant Allen Stone Proofreader Val Phoenix

Michael Ellis has written for a number of guidebooks

Picture Researcher Ellen Root

and listings, including the Virgin Guide to London, and Time Out’s guides to London, Eating & Drinking, Pubs &

Published by DK

Bars, and Weekend Breaks. He has also reviewed exhibi-

Publishing Managers Jane Ewart, Vicki Ingle and

tions for Frieze and Art Monthly, and produces the annual

Anna Streiffert

Londoner’s Diary. For e>>guide London, he wrote the Art &

Senior Editor Christine Stroyan

Architecture, Performance, Streetlife and Havens chapters.

Senior Designer Marisa Renzullo Cartographic Editor Casper Morris

Andrew Humphreys is a regular bar writer for London’s

DTP Designer Jason Little

weekly culture and entertainment magazine Time Out,

Production Coordinator Louise Minihane

and for three years was the editor of the same company’s annual London Pubs & Bars Guide. For e>>guide London, he wrote most of the Pubs, Bars & Clubs chapter. Peterjon Cresswell is a contributor to Time Out’s annual Pubs & Bars Guide. He is regularly sent on assignment by the London-based HPI Research Group to assess nightlife and drinking trends in major cities across the globe. For e>>guide London, he contributed text for the Pubs, Bars & Clubs chapter.

239

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240

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