The Chicken and Poultry Bible

er, lh cup diced onions 2 rabieSIKJOrlS tregewble oil, 1 egg lhgclT/icciou:!, cmshed

...

2 1erupoon.! cJ.opj"J[res}, hem" "'''''<:I, ffilajomm and sag
\VaS-. the duck inside and out under cold running

water and carefully pat dry. Make the liver sruffmg

Stuffed duck

sequence below.

Three examples offine stuffings

and roast the duck as described in the picture

The stuffings shown here are n i tended to comple­ ment the flavor of the duck, but they can also be

ll...w for lean poultry. If the duck ha� been bontrl

before stuffing, as shown on pages 40-1, it is partie, ularly easy to carve after

that s£uffing adds to the

so

coocookkiinngg.

Remember, too,

time ofpoultry,

be !>ure to test the thigh to sec that the bird s i

thoroughJy cooked.

DUCK WITH MEAT STUFFING Scrvcs 4

salL, freshly grormd tJ.,hite pepper 2 rolls . 7 teaspoon:! unsalted butler 'h CHp diccd oniOl1, I �rrlicclooe, crushcd 3 lObI"""",", d.oj�>e
Preheat the 0Jefl to 3SO"f. USe a gater to remove the crust from the rdls. Slice the rolls .me! pla<:e in a dISh. H&'31 the stock and pour t i 00 top. Heal the oil, ligt1llyfry the onions, add the I�rs

and sear. Add the mixture to the rolls, and mix wilil ihe COO. spices, and herbs. Stuff 1he stOll'lCldl cavity ot1he duCk evenly; do not till too full. as the s1uffll'lg v.-iM expand during cod
snit, freshly wornw ,dUlC pePlJCT, I egg Fa' roasting;

2 wblespoons wgcwble oil, I bouqueL I:,
and carefully pat dry. To make the sruffmg, remove the cmsts from the rolls, cut the bread into small dice. and brown l g i htly in hot butter. Heat the

DUCK S11JI-l'ED Wm-I POULmy FORCEMEAT Serves 4 2 tablespoons u?geud:le oil

For the sturfing:

B oz chicken breast

PerfKt for carving: A

boned, Sluffed dud:. can

I CtlP udl-dtilled light cream 3 wblespooru turupped cream , duck it£T i J duck hecnt v. ct/p unsalted bl/tter 5 slices lightly roasted bread, tuithoUf cn.:sts

I � alPS diced zucchini

, ,mall b,,"ch f=h ''''''' ey

\Vash the duck inside and out under nllU1lng W;:I[CT

and pat dry. To make the stuffing, finely dice the

chicken breast and chill weU. Season the meat with salt and pepper, puree fmely in '" focxl processor,

gradually adding the well-chilled light cream. Place the forceme-.:It in a bowl on ice and �it:ir to l'I smooth paste. Chill l'lgain briefl},. then rub through a

strainer. and blend in the whipped cream. No\\' prepare the other ingredients for the force­ •

stock, pour it 011£0 the bread, and allow to

nlOlt. Finely dice the liver and heart, scar them n i

1 teaspoon of butter, and drain. Finely dice the

infu.� for 5 minutes. Work the remaining

roost. Heat the remaining lxltter in a frying pan and

plenty ofseasoning. Stuff and roost the duck as

on �per towels. Blanch the carrots and zucchini

i.ngredients into a soft meat past.e and :;l.dd shown below.

fry the roast UI1tii golden brown. Remove and drain

scp;1ratei}' in boiling salted water and refresh with cold water. Finely chop the parsley and re;erve

1 tablespoo n.. Add these other i�>Tedients to the

forcemc-�t and carcfull), mix in. Stuff the duck with

the forcemOlt and d� the qJCl1ing..

Preheat the oven to 35O"F. Heat the oil n i a roost­

ing pan on top of the stove and briefly sear the duck on both sides of the breast. Roast the duck, breru;t­ side up, for 50-60 minutes. If the duck s i vcry f-�tty,

pierce the skin several times with a needle or skewer before roasting, so that the f::lt can dmin out more

easily. After ::Itout 10 minutes. pour on SOlne \\�dtcr so that the exWed fat docs not bum .. Repeat this

process 2-3 times before the end of the cooking

time. When the duck is cooked, remove the string, and allow the bird to rest for a few minutes. Sprin­

�eheal the oven 10 3SO"F. Season tne cavity of the duck with sail and pewer. Add the stuffing and distribute evenly, bearing n mind lhi'li lhe stulfing �nd during cooking. Close the q:Jening as shown 00 pages 38-9. Brush the dlrlwith oil and oIace in a roasting pan wit" the booquet gami. P.oas1 for approximately 2 hours until oisp and D'0'Ml. Baste with the cocking juices from time to time. AIIa.N to rest briefly and cut lengthwise to serve.

"",11

kle the duck with the reserved plrsiey, and carve.

be cut in E!'MI slices rigt1t � to the leg booes.

122

FRVII\G M'D ROASTl�

To peel fr�

dlestnuts: Cut a cross into the peel v.ith a sharp knHeand roast in the oven a1 425"F to'
the peel spings open. ReITlCM! while still hot.

THE CLASSIC ROAST GOOSE

In faU, whcn fresh. yOUl1g gccse comeonro the mar�

kcr, the rnesOluts arc ripe and can be U'iCd to make a traditional stuffing.The mcthod described here can also be used to roostJolny large !X>IJltry. Serves 4-6 one

8-lbgoose, .virh heart and /it'CT

For the stuffmg:

J !4 ib freshChestnuts, 2 �es I stale roll, 'A oip «'£Iter 7 teaspoons unsalted bUHer I wblespoon finely chopped ,/,alloo ' teaspoon salt, freshl:)' growuf white pepper Z rab/"pooru f","J:"JW/�Jed fresh """' , lxusley, rh}me and marjoram For basti.ng:

Y4 wp soft tmSafu,d bJ./f.tC1', Ih wp lu.'T mixed {uith

, teaslxxm salt

Wash the b'OOSC inside and out. pat dry, and season i.nside and out with salt and pepper. To make [he

swffing, {)ttl and finely chop the chestnut.s. Pecl the apples, cut into pioces, remove the core, and finely dice the flesh. Dice thc roll and sprinkle with water

and wine. Finely dice the heart and the liver. Melt the butter i.n a frying pan. First lightly brown dlC

heart, add the shallots, and thcn the liver. and sear on.ly very briefly. In a bowl mix the chestnuts, the apples. the roll, and salt <'Ind pepper. Add more salt if I1CCCS&lry. Preheat the oven to 400"F. Stuff the goose and

sew up [he opening or ciO)C it with wooden skewer.;. &ush the b'CO:ie with (he softened butter, place it brca.sHiide down in a roast.ing pan, and put it in rhe oven. When the breast has browned. tum the b"l:O;e

over and continue to roast.. from time to time oost� i.ng alternately with the salted beer (this makes the skin nice and crispy) and the dripping. Cook for a total ofabout 21h hours, testing the thigh to be sure the meat is donc. Skim the fat from the cooking juices, and serve dle goose widl red cabbage.

r FRY1KG M'DROASTINO

wrth stuffed geese

Carving a goose

the carving methcxl

shcv.n opposite can be

l6ed. \M1en the breast has been rer1'lOl.«l. cut

A technique that can also be used for duck

open along the b"eastbone with a pair

of poultry shears. PJsh the rib cage apart and take out the stuffing.

Qlrving
duck have a vcry firm skin and tough sinews, and rhe bone can be severed only by 3Wiying consider; �lblc force. Before carving. always allow the fat to dmin off; tilt me bird, so that the fat can run out of the stomach cavity. In addition, as for all lal'J,'C roasrs, let the fully cooked roast rest for at Icru;t 10 mi.nutes, wrapped in foil f i possible, so that the meat juices are not lost during carving. If tbe bird is to be carved n i the kitchen, where no one is watching, you can usc your hands to hdp. At the table, hO\vcvcr. use a CI:ITving knife and fork, or even poultry shears, and try to avoid touching me meat with your hands. I[ s i usually only the lneHty pam (legs, breasts, and wings) that arc detached at rhe rable. 'The carcass, '\�)ich has relatively little meat, can be carved in (he kitchen.

Remove the legs; Take hold of the leg bone between the prongs of the meatfork. Twist the fork slightly to hold the bale firmly. Cut along the Ix:dyas far as !he joint. MJve the bof1e with a sliglt twisting movement of the fork and SIM!r Ire joint with the knife.

Slice the bl"east Firmly hold the goose with the meat fork and cut the breast into even slices p.arallel to the breastOOne. Alternat�, r� the breast from the carcas5 and cut into thick slices diagonally. at riglt <JIl9Ie5 to the grain of the rT'I!at.

Remove the wings: Place the goose v-ith its back c\owrI on a G'IrVIng board. PierCe the IMng with a meat fcd and PJII sligltly iJ\.\'aY from the body. Take a sharp knife and, by rroving the v.ing carefuly, determiT'a! the location of the joint. Cut thrOlJ!t! the ikin first. then though the joint.

123

Cut up the legs: Hold the end of the bone firmly with the

fill9E'rs, find thejoiflt by � the leg, and S€IIer with the knife. me rE'l"l'l
portions l6ing a pair of p:>I.illly shears.

TURKEY WITH CORN PATTIES

La'1,>e IX)U)try roosts do not have roO be served only on traditional holidays. Here is a recipe that will make a celebration out of
Se.-ves' t1trk.e), with giblets

'h lb soup u�gctables 2� CliPS lighl pordtT), stock (see pages 52-3) I tablespoon tomato paste

I 'h roblespoons port, salt For the com patties:

2 cups oomflakes . 'h Clip cooked rom 2 eggs. stdt. Vtcup clarified lmuer Wa'ih the turkey inside and out under cold running water and carefully pat dry. Season inside Hnd out wirh salt, and plHce the herbs ill the stomach cavity. Wash the giblets and :;et: aside. Heat the clarified

butter in a roosting pan on the stove and briefly sear

the turkey on all sides. lay it on the breast side. Preheat the OVCIl to 350"E Wash the SOllP vegcta;

bles, chop finely, and l)dd to the fO;.l.sting pan with

the giblets. Place the roa."ting pan on rhe lowest: rack of the oven. Whm the vef:,>crablcs and turkey

begin to brown, tum the turkey over and cooL:: for at

least 2 hours. l-It'"at the stock. stir in the t'Omato pa-.te, mix it with the cooking juices, and. UliC to baste the turkey repeatedly. At the end of the cook­ ing time check that the turkey is done by piercing the thicke&'t part of the legs with a skewer; if clear juices run out, the turkey is fuUy cooked. Take the turkey from the roasting pan and. keep warm. Strain the cooking juices into a small

saucepan. pressing hard OIl the vegetables to release

their juice.';. Degrease the sauce as desired, bring

oock to a boil, add the pumpernickel and reduce.

Strain the So ' Rlce. and add JXln and salt.

To make the com patties cnunble the cornflakes

and mix with the com, eggs and salt. Heat the butter

in a frying pan. For each pany. place 1-2 table:;poons

of the mixture in the pan, using a SJXXlll to shape it, and. fry for 2-3 minutes on each side until �,'olden

brown. Arrange the turkey on a warmed platter with the com JX"ttics. Serve the sauce separnr.ely.

FRvlNC AND ROA!>"ITNO

125

Celebrate with turkey Senrjng a large roast bird has been a traditional way to mark special occasions, particularly Thanksgiving

and Christ:rnaS. The increasing popularity ci turkel', and its greater availability, mean that you can usc it [(l celebrate events ::lt any time of \'ear.

BABY TURKEY WITH A HERB CRUST This recipe is pl'Irticularly recommended for small

turkey. After a further)O minutes, pierce the thigh

with H skewer to check whether the turkey is

turke}'S. but. it is",Iso suitable for roosting chickens.

cooked; cook longer if necessary. Allow the cooked

vor of the stuffing should be coorruruttcd with that

then carve and serve.

The bird can also be stuffed. in which case theOa, of the crust. A sturrmg made from the giblets and

seasoned with the &lme herb mixture as dle crU'it is

P1rticlllarly suitable.

turkey ((l rest for about 1 5 mi.nutes wrapped in foil,

-. To tn.J§.s the turkey: � � -�

Scrves 4

6 tablespoons Imsalted butter For the herb crust:

, oil) fresh bread crumbs

4 labl",,,,, choppedf=h ",""" panIry. _. and myme in equal proporriotlS , ll liuIe rosemary and lon�

Preheat the oven to 400"F. Carefully wash the

turkey inside and out and p3t dry with polpcr towels.

Season the skin and the stomach cavity with salt

and pepper. Truss the turkeY ::ls described on the

right, place on a rack in a roosting pan, and put in

dlC oven. After 5 minutes, brush with butter. Mix together aLI the ingredients for the herb crust. After

about 40 minutes. sprinkle all over the turkey. From Ijme [(l time, spoon rhe Inixture of melted butter

and herbs that dri� into dle roasting p.m over dlC

Pun kitchen stnng tlvough under the Ieg<;. TWl the h.rl::.ey onto the breast, and cross the

smng�.

TWl onto the back. take the string between the leg<; and the breast. aoss over on the breast. and tie together at thepn�.

During roasting I:n.rsh the n.rl:eyseveral times with the melted l:utter.

�====����==��

L-

� �

_ _

"

__ __ __

and spinkle y,;th the heW mixtlXe halfway through the cooking time.

THANKSGIVING TURKEY AlthO\lgh as n i dividuals wea.re 1000e than likely to hold differing opinions on many is;ues., there s i one

point on which a.1I Americans agree: turkey s i dcfi�

nirdy the mai.n fe-<1rurc ofThanksgiving Day ditUler. For most of us, rhe feast just would not be complete

without (be rradirional l-lccompaniments of cran­ berry AAUCC and com, but there arc ilU1umcrabic variation.. on what else to sen'c with it. as well as different ways to prepare the sruffing and the oon­ berries. Here, then, arc more recipes for this rnost imponant 1l\C' .d I.

one

8-1b Mkey

For- the stuffing:

5 "ire> dny-<Jld white bread

7 teasl)OOt1.S 1000scdted bUlleT

I ClIP corn kernels

1/.1 Clip chol>Ped walnuts

I IllblesJ)()(JIl chopped fresh herbs: t11:tme and oreglmo ,,,It. freshly ground peU"" I egg For the cranberry sauce:

I Ib cmnberries lgClT I Cf4) brown Sf juice of 'h lemon '/4 cup rOO wine 'Ii teaspoon. cinnamon 'h teaspoon mustard ,JOU.Ider

grated teSt andjuice. of I orange

and mix widl the egg. Add to the sruffing flnd mix

tOf,'Cthcr well. and season agaiIL Season the turkey inside with salt and pepper. then stuff. Close the

opening with skewers and string. To truss the rurkco,',

For the com:

tuck in the wings. take the string (rom underneath

4 ears ofcom

around the end of the legs and cross over at the

Wash the turkey inside and out under cold running

\\�,J.tcr. To make the stuffing, soak the bread in JUSt a litde water. Peel the Hpples. remove the core, and

joints. Take the string down the side of the tllrkco,I,

fllong the lower legs to the wings and pull tight. Pull the string around and tie it securely at the side.

Preheat the ovcn to 325°F. Season the outside of

dice the flesh. Melt the butter in � I�ryt! pan and

the turkey with salt and pepper, and tub with oil.

flpple, misins, walnuts, and herbs, SC3.'
hours (20 millutes per POlmd -remember to allow for the fldditional weight of the stuffmg - plus 20

sweat the onion and celery. Add the com kcrnels, flud pcJ1X't, and stew for J 0 minutes. Transfer to fl

dish l'\nd aUow to cool. Squeeze the bread out well

Place it in a roasting pan and roast for at Icast 3

minutes), basting from time to dme with [he cook�

F1m� AA'D ROASTING

ing juices, unr.i1 crispy and brown. At the end of the

cooking time, pierce the thigh with a skewer; if the juices run clear, the turkey is fully cooked.

In the meantime, carefully pick over the cranber­

ries, wash, and drai. n.. Cook in a large saucepan with the sugar and lemon juice, stirring constandy, for

about 15 minuteS. Add the red wine, l>-Pices, and

oraf1l:,'C lest and juice, stir, and cook for a funher J 0 minutes.

To make the corn, place dle eo.us i.n a large sauccpm of boiling �It.ed wat.er, cover, and cook for

20 minutes. Wash the leek leaves and blanch. Rem(lVC the corn from the w3tcr and tic the leek leaves around them. Serve the turkey and stufHng

/t t

with the cranberry sauce anJ the corn..

BI

UABPIE FROM MOROCCo Instead of the expensive, paper,thin toorkha..,. usc phyllo pastry. For the ootilla, cut the sheers into round shapes, and for the guinea fowl pie on the oppaiite page, cut them into rectangles. Scn1es4

thyme leat-'CS 2 teaslxxms freshly grtued bringer

!.1 teaspoon CTnnitl, 2 pinches turmeric

I ClII) shelled ahnonds Yl teaspoon cnmamoll, 1 tablespoon sugar 3 tab/,,/!oons oil To sprinkle over; , tableslXlOll confectioners' sugar, !.1 teaspoon cnmanwn

HandWng the phyIIo

pastry. The success of

the pie depends 00 the

co.n,CI: 1ir;;f1g out, filting, and combining of the pash)'sheets, To keep

them moist 50 that thfoy do not break. when

folded. IJru;h each layer with mehed butter CCM!f spare sheets VYlth

a OOfll) doth until ready lOuse.

Wash the :;quabs inside and our, pat dry, and season with salt and pepper. Hndy dice the giblets. Melt hfllf the butter in a pan, sear the squabs on all sides HI1(\ rClnove. Brown the onions and d1e giblets in the butter remaining in the pan. Add the herbs. spices, find the \\�.'ltcr, and bring to a boil. Add the squabs, cover, and br. ar�l add d1C reduced stock. Melt Y4 cup of the butter in a frying pan, lightly brown rhe almonds, drain, chop findy, and mix with the cinnamon and sugar. Arrange 6 rounds ofpaSll)', each ovcrlflpping, into a cla;ccl circle, bm<;h with a little melted butter, and place another circle of 6 rounds on top. Spread half the l:Ihnond mixture in the middle. Mix the squab meat with the sauce, place on the almond mixrure find cover with the remain.ing almond mixture. Fold the edges of the top layer ofJYdSll)' over the pie fill, ing, cover with the remaining rounds of phyllo, brush with a Btde melted butter, and fold up the cdb1C:S of the bottom layer ofpastry. Hear the oil and the remaini.ng butter in a large frying pan slick the pie into the hot fat. fry for about 'i minutes lUltii golden brown, carefulJy turn with a !>lJ1Jrinkle with sugar and cinnamon in a lartice pattern. al1(\ serve hot. ,

Poultry pies from the pan Hearty fillings in thin pastry TIle origins of these delicacies are not proven, but they arc most p�bly to be found in Arabia. These pies are still prepared toeby in the coun, tries of North Africa, i:1nd Morocco is fi:lltlOUS for its bistilJas. delicious squab pies. Pies arc made there, however. not only with squab, but also with chicken and turkey. The fTl()!;t important feMure of thesc pies is their paper,thin pastry, which is known in Morocco as tuarkha. The elastic clough is pressed onto a hot plate and then pulled off. The thin film of pastry thi:1t sticks to the plate is then baked. This is a very difficulr procedure. and a simple alternative is m usc ,.... phyllo piistry_

FRllNG AND RoASTlNJ

129

Tomaked1e guinea ,---� fowl pie:

Preheat the 0\61 to4OO"f. Divide the 9JiI1l'Cl fov.t into legs. v,;ng5, andbreasts. 8rown 00 air sides in the t'(lt oil ullil crisp, ,erTlO\'f! and drain.

In the fat that is left, brcIvvn the

i t . h the ctq:ped caro!SS ....

gtjets, then add the eked ooiotlS, and s\o\'eal.

,

����:::��� �!:�

Melt the butter in a large frying pan. Slide the paslry into the pan and fry lor 5 minuteS on each side, or until crisp and bro\M1.

Add the spices. dust with fru. add the dlopped carrots and celeriac, and pDlX on the chicken stock..

Return the pieces of guinea fov.r1 to the pan and roast for �OKimate/y 40 minUle5. RernoYe, take off the lTlt'al. and

_r"",.

Strain the cooking liquid, thet1

reduce by about three QUilrtroi and dd a the guinea tClY¥i meat

GUINEA FOWL PIE

Serves 8-1 0 �s an appcti2er 'If CtIp t"egetnble oil, , Y4 CliPS diced onions , reaslxxm salt, freshly grotmd wnite peNJCT

I chi" pq"",. "",ded I '=poon fre>hly gmt'" tringcr ',1 teaspoon tuTmeric, 2 iightl)' crushed�c clot'CS l poult1)' srock (see pages 52-3) 3� cups ight 2 rablespoons choPl X!CI[rem herbs: cilantro, txmdey, lmd th}1ne

Addthe hefbs and eggs to the mixture, mix everything logE!lherwell and, if necessary, adjusl the seasoning.

� the pastry sheets 10

foon a large rectangle. Splead

the almonds mixed \f\.ith the cinnamon in the center and place lhe meal on lop.

,--

�===;�;��=f �:::::::=::�::

;:=�����==�

',1 alP coarsely ground almonds, � rea5f!Or)fl cinnamon , 6 rableslxxms urualted blltrer

Make the b'uinea fowl pie as described in the picture sequence to [he right.

fold the 4 sides of the pil"ilr)­ sheets 0Yef the fiUing, so that it is completelyenclosed and nothing runs out. L

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

_

130

Barbecuing Barbecuing is an ideal method for cooking poultry, as whole birds and individual cuts can be prepared in the optimum way to suit their natural characteristics. It is also a simple and extremely efficient method of preparing a meal: potatoes, corn on the cob, onions, and even zucchini can cook in the coals while the meat cooks on top. Marinating the meat before cooking, and stuffing whole birds under the skin are ways to enhance the natural flavor of the meat, and they provide welcome alterna� tives to the familiar tomato-based barbecue sauce. To get the ultimate benefit of a

marinade, leave the poultry to steep in it in the refrigerawr overnight. Take the meat out of the refrigerator some time before you want to cook it to allow it to

retunl to room temperature.

\3\

Wrapping portions of meat in bacon before 9ri!li� adds flavor and ellSlJresthaithe meat does not dry out

132

BIIRIlOCUJNG

The indirect grilling method:

Cooking over the coals Ground rules far success

Oistrirute the chi!«:ool evenly next to the barriers on two

sides of the base of the barbecue.

Befme barbeaJing.. place the rnafinatoo chickM halves on a rack and allow the excess oil to dl'i:lin off.

TIle SU(:(:e&'; of cooking with extreme radiant heat, as in broiling and I:�ubecuing, depends on how the

effect of the 1"Ie'
to a limited extent with glowing charcml. Here the intensity has to be regulated �, the distance between

Distribute the firelighters O\'ef the charcoal, and IlIjIt them. Open � vents on the base of "" """"."""

the charcoal and the pcultry. This applies to both

the grill FtlCk and lhe spit. which luwe to be set at the right distance above the cools depending on rJle size of the poultry. If they are too clo;e, the skin will burn very Quickly and the meat will not cook. Conversel}·,

if the distance is tOO gTe'
The Yvhite ash will begin to

""",L

long to cook and will become dry. Generall\', the grill rack <md spit" should be
cools. The indirect method of barbecuing, sllOwn

left, prevents the fdt from hitting rJle cools and sencI­ ingflarnes up to bum rJle poultry skin.

BARBECUED MARINATED CHICKEN Place i! drip pan on the base of the barbecue between !he coals and poce the grill rack on

top.

Position the marinated ITII!
predsely over the drip pan, so that no fat drips Into the charcoal.

Se.ves 2 one 3-lb chicken For the Illilrirulde:

J chile pepper, 2 garlic dooes , crushed In small onion, !hirth, slicet:l. J teaspoon salt, J reLlspoon grated Zeslo[let7V)fl J cup {me tJegeralie oil

Wash
A well-seasoned barbecued chicken can be accompanied by simple things. ')Urn as fresh Frenrn bread or aisp fried

potatoes.

i3ARBECU11-:G

marinate overnight. Grill on both sides for a total of

40 minutes Baste frequently with the marinade .

while cooking.

CHICKEN MARTINIQUE

In this recipe the delicate flavor of the chicken

combines superblV with the devilish heat of the chiles The result is a chicken with delicious, juicy .

flesh, and a spicy, crisp crust. Caribbean chiles h:we a powerful but very flavorful heat, but other hot

varieties can also be used. However, there is no sub­ stitute for the limes. Their typical flavor cannor be replaced, for example, by lemons. Serves 2

For the marinade: [mel} grated rind andjuice of l lime I rensJXXm salt I Ifl wblesp£xms chopped fresh ginger freshly grated nutmeg 2 w1icr� f,ddy dwppcd hcrbs, />=ky, cilantro, rhyme, mullx>sU Vi cup fine wgewble oil

133

knife or poultry she-MS. Place the two halves with the cut side uppennost in a large shallow dish. Place the lime rind and juice in a cup. Add the g'Mlic, salt, ginf:,ter, nutmeg, and half of the chopped herbs. Pour in the oil and mix well. First drizzle the mixture over the cut surfaces of the chicken halves, then turn them over and pour the remainder of the marinade over the other side. Halve the chile pepper lengthwise, seed, cut the flesh into strips, and SCltter over the chicken. Cover with foil and Ie-,we in the refrigerator to marinate overnight. Remove the majority of the chile strips, brush the chicken halves well with the marinade thai has drained off, and place on the grUl. First grill on the cut side for 1 0 minutes, then turn and cook on the skin side for a further 15-20 minutes, until the skin is crisp and the meat is cooked. Tr-.-lditionally, Chicken Martinique is served with breadfruit and rice, but, of course, you can serve it with other vegetables too. TIle typical condiment on the table is a chile pepper halved lengthwise, with the seeds removed, and freshly squeezed lime juice poured into the halves. The chile half s i then squeezed over the chicken in

Wash the chicken inside and out, and carefully

order to �iprinkle it with the flavor of the lime

pat dry. Divide along d1e backbone with a heavy

juice and the heat of the chile.

Two in a basket a neat

way to barbecue tiny squabs.

Kebabs ,

An endless spectrum of colorfuL surprises The variety of ingredients th�t can be used to ffi
t

kebabs is ;:.Imoot unl inured. Pou1try am be com· binal with a wide rnnge ofother food. such as

shellfish, "eget
lean meat from drying out, wrnp it in bacon. TI,en

yC)U need [0 brush only a Iitde fat onto the keoob> [0 prevent them from sticking to the grill. Naturnlh'.

the salty bacon Hlso imparts flavor to the ll1eiIt. lf

}'OU prefer not [(l use bacon, coat the keoobs well

with (
important (hi'lt the kebabs are not directly over the chl)I'(;()
heat of the embers, allow 8--12 minutes cooking

time. When grilled properly. colorful kebab> are
CHICKEN WIlli GIANT SHRIMP Makes Z kebab;

4-6 cocktail onioru

salt. fresJJy grou",J white f>e/>/>
pieces and place on skewers. alternating with the

•

shrimp and onions. Season with salt and pepper. and -

grill. Before serving, sprinkJe some drop; of lemon juice on the kebab;.

TURKEY WITH MUSI-IR=MS Makes 2 kebabs

!-l ib IUrl<ey scallop. about !-I-inch thick 4 bunon musJ\TOOJlL�

(

2 ape musJ\TOO'I7lS 2 slices bacon 2 ,«dges of apple �smaU onion

Cut the turkey SC
halfand the apple wedges. and place on skewers

BARBCCliJNO

J alternating with the turkey pieces. bunon mush­ rooms, and cepe mushroums, �s shown left, and season with S<\lt and pepper. After grilling, sprinkle wid1 chopped fresh herbs of your choice. DUCK AND PEPPER KEBAB lh CtU;Jt red and )'eUow pepper

4 J"rarUc. clot.es, tmpeded herbesde Pro\'e.nce (optiorulI)

sait, freshly ""'""" ","Ie peppcr Roughly dice the duck breast. Remove the seeds and stalk from Lhe peppers, and cut the (lesh into chunks. Lightly press the g'drlic with the balJ of the hand. so that the peel comes away slightly. Alternate the ingredients on the skewer. and arrange the duel< so that the skin is all facing one direction. Season the keb
SQUAB AND SAGE KEBABS Makes 2 kebabs

6 fresh sage leatJeS For the sauce: 2 rablesfXXm5 Hnsalled buuer 2 shaJJo<s, finely c/uwed ',1 alP dark poultry stock (see pages 50-1 )

Wash the squabs. p'dt dry, divide into breasts and

legs. and ru-rnnge on the skewers alternating with the sage leaves. Before grilling, make the sauce from the carca'&:5. Findy chop the bones, brown n i 2 tea­ spoons ofbutter, add tile shallots, and S\>;eat. OliU the renUlining blner. Pour on the cognac, ignite �nd flambe the C3I'Ci1SSCS. Poor on the poultry stock, reduce to about half, and stnUll. Season and grill the keoobs. Shortly before the end of the cooking time, cut the remaining butt.er into cubes and whisk into the hor sauce, .

•

I

IJ 5

Grilled on the spit

The ideal way to barbecue a whole bird The spit om be used for all types of pouJu¥, from squab to turkey. When the ffieill is rotated evenly, the

effectnf the helt on aU parts is uniform. To ensure a crisp skin and juicy meat, set the spit at the correct

distance from the coals, and brush the poultry frequently with the dripping, so that the surface cannot dry out. For Ie-.m poultry, use a mixture ci 'Is oil and Y, butter. Smaller birds are best cooked in a grilling basket, medium�5ized birds on Lhe spit. The rruodmum size of i detennil1e(l by the capacity of the barbecue. bird you am oorbecue whole s

To barbewe the dude

Season the II"ISIde and outside ofthe washed and dried D..d: Vvith satcWld pepper. and place the bouquet gami in the

stomach CiJ\lity.

Place in a grilling basketor skewer onto a spit and hokl in place \Mth the �. Put CM!!r the hot (cas.

r:�;::i'---I

BARBECUED DUCK Nantais ducks
because of their low weight and sHang fhwort but

;:===-=���� '-' 0: "-::.-

-'

_ _ _ _ _

other types of duck QU1 be substituted. Sen,,,, 2-3 one 3-lb duck

"ut, fresJJy "",unil while peppcr I bouquet garni: parsley, sage, and rll)'Jl1e 1 tablespoons vegetable oil 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 Ieill/JOOru /oor pap.-;x. 2 wblespooru mO/>fx'dfresJ, heros (_,"" _, t/,)me)

Prepare and grill the duck as shown in the picture

sequence to the left. lne cooking time is 60--70 minutes.

Serve with pot
mixed S
"""'.

After roasting. let the duck rest for about 10 minutes before Glrving. to give the juices time to be redisllibuted.

BIIR):3I;CUllW

To stuff �ng guinea fow'

under the skin:;

Process the washed herbs v.oith the toast. and sreson v.oith sah and pepper. Add the pine I'lIJIS

and dlop finely.

r-��

'::�:!!o"""o =:""""':=::::�::: ' I

YOUNG GUINEA FDWl SfUFFED UNDER THE SKIN This recipe s i for ;:I small guine:cl fowl cooked on ;:I spit or in a grilling basket (see opposite page). If i( is to I:e cooked on the griU itself, cut it open and press it flat. so that it cooks quid:l}, and event}'.

Serves 2

For the stuffing:

1 ,mcll /n .. ,,, fresh f/at-loo{/"",/"

Using a pairol poultry shears. rut the guinea fCl\lv1s open along the backbone, dean the slornadl cavity, and season with sah and pepper.

2 sprigseadl fresh thyme and TVscmtn')' 1 slice toast, rmely chopped salt, freduy grotmd tvllite pepper 21h wbles,xxms pine n14t.'i

Make the stuffing
Place the guinea fowls on i:I chopping board with the breast side uppermost and pfE!SS flat

lightly with the bait of the h.nd.

sequence to the right. Follow the inslTuctions

accompanying the subsequent pictures (0 cle-.,m and prepare the guinea fowls. Stuffthem carefull\,. as shown.

If you are not: cooking the birds on the Spil, grill

them on dleir oocks for the ftrst 20 minutes. then

turn them over <100 grill for
Starting 1I'00'I the neck, loosen

the skin from the breast meat wi1h you flllQE!fS, being catefu

not to tear it.

further 15-20 minutes.

remembering to bctste them from time to time so that the meat does not dry out.

Whichever method \'OU use, there should still be

sufficient sp
like to try wrapping whole zucchini in foil


under the skin witn a spootl, and spread it evenly over the meat.

Press lightly with the fingels 10

give shape to U'lE! stuffing. Milk.e an incision about ¥.-inch Iorog in the thin skin between . ...... ,

Carefully �R the legs IIYougtI the §lit in order to mainfain the shape of tt-e bird during cooking.

Serve the guinea fCM1 with grilled §lices of zuccnlll and E!ggpial1t, and pieces of cOClked tomato.

1

\38

Baking and deep--frying Poultry cooked in the oven does not always have to be roasted; it is also excellent

baked. Inside a protective casing of salt, for example, the characteristic taste of

poultry becomes concentrated, and the result is juicy meat that does not taste at all salty. Whether encrusted in salt or in bread clough, or used to fill spicy tartlets or a quiche, versatile poultry meat proves to be a true delicacy. Smoked turkey and chicken add a fine flavor to a pizza; smoked duck breast makes it a rcal treat.

Gourmets may argue about the virtues of deep-frying, but you will ger excellent results if you coat the meat correctly and fry it at the right temperature.

A delicacy in bread dougI: a seared breast of dlicken with veal and hetb stuffing.

Deep�fried poultry A crispy coating offlour, egg, and bread crumbs I<.eeps the meat juicy When protected by H coating ofbreacl cnunbs, all types of poultry - provided they are not too large - can be fried n i hot fat. The coating fonns a hermetic se'
i rolled in flour, dipped into beaten egg, and coated n i bre
can be varied by ooding ahnonds or Parmesan cheese. Be careful that the coating covers all of the meat; if

necessary. (epe-dt the procedure. The amounr ofoil used is also important: the pieces should '\;.vim" in it. SO that the heat can penetmte evenly. Use a deep pot and do not fill it more than halfway. Always use small

i hot. pieces of meat so that the :surf.:lce does not become too brown before the inside s FRIED CHICKEN The dl should be 365°E Ifyou do not have a frying thelmometec. drop a small cubeofbread into the

fat; if it browns in 1 minute. the oil is the right temperature.

Serves 4 freshly grOUlld wlute pepper

TURKEY ROLLS

The piqwmt filling of prosciutto and Fomina cheese makes the turkey really spicy. Under (he prOlective

crust of eggs and bread crumbs. the meat remains

pleasantly juicy.

Scrves 4

8 thin slices of turke:>' breast. about 2 o:t each Yl garlic don:: 1 teaspoon strOJJg musr..:rd r , 'll teaspoon salt:

2 tablespoon, all-"",_ flour

8 tim slices prosciutto

2 eggs, beaten

8 thin slices r'omina dlees€

J cup dried bread crumbs wgetable oil forfrying

Wash the chicken and pat dry. Divide n i to 4 or 8

2 tablespo"", alI-/M»>a>e flour 2 el
pieces as desired and again dry carefully with paper

Beat the turkey scallops evenly. Finely crush the

towels, so that the coating adheres well. Season with

garlic, mix with the mustard and the salt, l:Ind brush

sequence helow, pressing the bread cruml:6 well into

ham and cheese as shown below. roll up, and secure

salt and pepper. and coat as described in the picture

a thin coating of this onto the scallops. Cover with

place. Deep-fl)' for 12-15 minutes, then re!>1: wit.h a

with a toothpick. Carefully coat. with bread cruml:6

skewer to check that it is thorrughly cooked.

and deep-flY for 10--1 2 minutes until crisp.

First turn the careflJlly dried. seasoned chicken pieces in the flolJr. then in the egg. maki� S1Jre that it coalS them completely. CareflJlly roll the pieces in the bread crumbs, pressing firmly into place, ther1 tap them lightly to remove any excess. Deep-fry in hot oiL

Place 1 slice each of ham and cheese on the prepared turkey scallops. roll up and secure with a tootl1lkk. Dip the rolls in floor, tapping off the excess, then roll them in the beaten eggs am then in the bread crurrbs.. pressing the crumbsfirmly into place. Deep-fry in the hot oil.

141

Baked in a crust of salt This cooking mcthOO suits lean poultry best, rut it can also be uSI.:d for ducklings from which the

abdominal fat has been removed. The salt crust seals the mc::at so that during cooking the fat cannot run

out. You will notneed to salt U1e cooked meat, but it will not be too salty either.

CHICKEN IN A SALT O,U�I

l1lCsalt oust s i 00und with cgg whitc, and the meat

cooks gently in its own juice. 1l.c bird can be

encased in the sail crust din .. 'Ctly on a blking shc...'Ct lined with (oil, but it is simpler to place the bird n i a large ow11 casserole lined with a layer ofsalt and to pile the salt paste up ftruund it, as shown here. SelVcs4 one 4-lb clticken 2 garlic dOlles, tmpeeled

1 bOliquetgumi: [Xn"s/e:)'. StJge.

th:>me, and IOtJtJge

For the salt paste:

I ' Ib coorse saIl, I egg ultire, tl'llleT

Wash the chicken and carefully Jmt dry. Crush the garlic dovcs with the back of a knife. Season the stomach cavity with pt.')JpCI". and

insert the bouquet

garni and the garlic cloves. Mix the salt with the egg white and sufficient w::tter n i to a pliable paste. Pre· l"\Cat me oven to 425°1: Line a casserole with a

%·inch thick layer ofsalt. ,:mtet place the chicken

on it. and pile me remaining salt l:BStc up arolU1d it, SO that the chicken is completely scaled in. Place on the lowest rack of the oven and cook for about 2

hours. Break �n the salt casing with a hammer or a meat mallet and remove the chicken. Serve with salad and freshly bah.xI white bread.

L42

BAK1M} ANO DEEP-FRYlNQ

ONION TARTLITS WITH SMOKED LEG OF TURKEY

I recipe pastry (see left)

For the pastry:

For the filling:

salt, 3-4 wblespoons water, 1 egg

B oz chicken breast Vi rnp urualted butter % alP diced (mien, I garlic dove.

For the filling: 3 tablespoons unsalted bUlter

2-3 ,""" smokd !;acon, [mely chq,p
'll rnp eDCh )"eltow, red, andgreen pepper

2 sliced leek

2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs: parsley, thyme, and

1 !4 cup diced onion

I clm£, [mel)- crushed garlic

'/1 cup ligJu pOllltry stock (see fX/&>e5 52-3) 'h rup ligllt cremn, 2 eggs

J alp shredded Emmenlhal cheese

-"£lit, fresMy ground tvhite pepper Mftke the PftStry as described to the left. Roll it out to Ifll-.n i ch thick, line the greased tartlet tins with it and cut offthe overhanging edges.. Bake the p::tStry blind: prick the 00sc of the pastry all over with a

fork, line it with baking parchment, weigh down with baking beans. and ooke for 10 minutes at

4(XJ0F. TI1.is prevents the oose from softening when filled later.

To make the filling, melt half the butter in a ):ID1,

add the smoked bicon, and fry until brown but not

crisp. Add the onion, the leek, and the garlic, ftnd stew for aoout 5 minutes. Add the stock and con­

12 large black olives For the topping:

1 \.1 rups light cream, 3 eggs

Vi teaspoon each grated ntltm.eg and mace Line a greased to�inch quiche dish with the rolled out pastry, pless down at the edges, and cut off the

overhanging paslly Prick the I:asc of dl.C pastly all

over wid-l. ft fork, line it wid, ooking parchment, weigh down with baking beans, and bike for 10

minutcs at 4C(JO}: Finely dice the chicken. Melt 2

mblcspoons of butter in a frying JX:l.n, fry the meat

for 4-5 minutes, remove, and set aside. Melt the rcst of the butter, and sweat the onion ftnd garlic. Add the zucchini and peppers, and continue to sweat for aoout 5 minutes_ Add the chicken liver. Finally, mix in the herbs and allow to cool a little. Mix the

dlC turkey meat. Melt the remaining butter in a

olives evenly on the quiche. Pour in the l.'gg and

cream, eggs, and cheese into the onion mixtu1"C, sea­

minutes until golden brown.

son wid1 salt and pepper, and proceed as described to the

left. Bake the fHled tartlers for 25-30 minutes

until golden brown. Serve hot.

relTlOlJ€ the baking

oregano

cream with dle eggs ftnd spices. Mix the m{:at with

c1eftn pan and briefly scar the turkey. Mix the

beans and parchment. Fill with the meat, top with the omen mixture, and bake.

I alp diced ducken liver

r-inue to cook until the liquid has evaporated. Set

the miXlUre aside. Preheat the oven to 4 t5°F. Dice

To make the onion tartiets: B
Serves 4

Makes eight 4�inch tanlets 2'h rup5 ll1l�pJ..(rpose flour, % o

To make the pMtry. Rubthe fIolJr and butter by hand until it has the cOf'l5istency of bread crumbs. Make a well in the middle, add salt,. water and the E'99. and knead qUickly into a smooth dough. Chill for 1 hour, rdl out, and line the pans with the aid of a rdUng pin,

OUVE AND CHICKEN QUICHE

the vegetable mixture and fill the pastry. Scatter the cream mixture, and OOke n i the oven {or 45-50

Crisp�baked dough as a base and casing For browned surfaces or delicate fiUings Whether for a outlet, a quiche, Large spicy cakes. a pic or a pastry casing, a crisp-baked dough makes it possible to val)' the dish and add flavor. Its appeal lies in the crust, the l
G=SE LIVER IN BRIOCHE DOUGH

TIlls combination s i unsurpassed: d)c [oi£ gras clcvcl� cps particularly well

in this casing and the hrioch,c dough benefits from the flavor of the liver. For a bread pan about 12 x 5 x 3 n i ches one

Pl4-"lb goose liver

pinell en.cI1 ofground allspice and nutmeg freshly ground 'l.ullire pepper J cup vintage port J Yz tablespoons Arrnagnac For the brioche dough: 1 tablespoons dry' )'east, '12 cup lukewonn milk % cup unsalted butter 2 eggs. III reaspoon stq,tlT 1 l£lISl)(}()T\ salt Also:

4 thin s'ice� of Ixzcvn fat Carefully remove all skin and veins from rhe liver, season with salt, place in a dish

and pour on the port and Armagnac. Cover with foil, place in the refrig,

erator, and marinate for 24 hours. Remove the liver from me

marinade and drain. BoiJ me

marinade and rt.:ducc to about 2-3 tablespoons, then cool. Prcss half of the liver into a

bre::.d pan somewhat smaller

than me fmal pan, pour the reduced marinade over it, and .,dd me n ,waining livel; To make the dough, dissolve the yeast in d1e lukl.'walm

milk, stirring all d1e time. Melt

the butter, allow to cool, and add the eggs, sugar, and salt. Sift the'

flo", ,nt, ,, bowl, add the dissolved

"",;U,," the butter mixture, and knead

into a smooth, dlY dough. Cover the dough with a

cloth, and leave to rise at room temperature for 30 minutes. Roll out to 16 x 24 ind1cs, and use it to line a second, somewhat lalger bread pan so that the dough overhangs about 21h inches on aU sides. Turn out the liver prepared earlier, wrap it n i the d1in

slices of bacon fat, and place it in the pan lined with

dough. Brush the overhanging edges ofthe dough

with egg yulk, fold together over the filling, and prcss together well so that the liver is completely

enclosed. Using a sharp knife, rut t\vo small crosses into the surface, insert two small pie vents [Q act as

chimneys, and surround d1cm with rosettes of

dough. AJlow dle pie lO rise al room temperature, no

warmer, for 20-30 mi.nutes, until its volwne has

almost doubled. Preheat the oven to 415°F. Brush the Sluface of the loaf with egg yolk and bake for

45-55 minutes. Cool overnight. Remove the vellts.

144

B.4J::.IMJ ANO[m>-FRYlNG

Pizzas large and small Smoked poultry add.s a special flavor i The pzza is a very versatile dish in terms of its tap­

ping. Use the following recipes to make pizzas that arc far from ordinary.

BASIC RECIPE FOR PIZZA DOUGH Makes cwo ] 2-inch pizzas

2Vl rups aU-purpose flour, 2 talkspoons )'east ll1is quite simple yeast dough recipe contains no

eggs, butter. or milk - only watcr- which makes d1e pizza base nice and criSpy when baked. The

dough should be film yet clastic, so that it can be well stretchcrl without [ealing. TI,e edge must

always be thicker than d,C rest ofthe pizza base so

that dlC liquid in the topping docs not run into the

oven during baking.

SMOKED CHICKEN PIZZA

The piquancy ofthis pizza comes from the smoh:d chicken. As an alternative, try smoked turkey,

prderably using meat from the thigh, as the breast meat is too dlY.

Makes two L2-inch pizzas

To make the pizza dough: Make a well in the flour, add the IlIk.evYclffi1 water iVld dissolvetheyeast in it. Cover IMth floor, cover the I.xMt IMth a dottl, Nld 1eiM: in a warm place to rise lIntii the surface cracks. Add the Oil and mix in.

1 recipe basic pizza dougfl For thc topping:

10 oz tomatoes

6 scallions without tip!>

On a flollred working Slrlace, knead to a srroth o dough. Allow to rise again to doo.iJIe thevoilime.

Cut the dough into pieces, roll them into balls, and then roll out Into bases wittl a rolling pin.

I each red. )'e/low, tnul' green pepper 2 small zucchini 'h boned smoked chicken. about 1 \.7lb � - """ , 0 oz mozzarella cheese 16 black olives 2 wbl""""", chopped f"'�' thyme, oregano. and basil V4 cup {me olive oil

Preheat the oven to

425"E Slice the tomatoes

and distribute over the

dough bases. Finely chop d1C

scallion and sprinkle on top of

With floured hands, strd<e the bases from the center outwards. Priel< sewral times wittl a forlc

the tomatoes. Core and st:ed the pep--

�rs, and cut into fine strip5. Slice the zucchini and

the mozzarella. ut thc meat into slices and distrib­

ute on the pizza with stri.ps ofpepper and th<-·

zucchini. &ason with salt and pt:pper, and top with the mozzarella. Add the olives. sprinkle with the

herbs, ruld drink with oil. Bake for around 25 min� Top the bases IMth the ingredients in the correct sequence, but leave a space at tile slightly raised edge.

utes until the edge of the dough s i crispy and brown.

•

.... ... __ ", th! w.eated aicn. S1ew,

Ihen add the tmlaID """,.

MINI·PIZZAS Wlnl SMOKED DUCK BREAST � delicate morsels arc ideal as canap6;, snacks. or appetizers. The duck breast combined with the homemade tomato sauce produces a quite spL'Cial .'

topping. 1vhtkes 12 mini�pbas

I recipe OOsic piua dough For the tomato sauce:

1 tablespoons flfU! olive oil, 'h alP diced onion I garlic clot:e. {mel)- chopped 'h lb tomatoes, J tableslxxm wmato paste y, rwspoon ",It, fresJd, gmunJ pepper 2 Iabl"pooru cJwt>ped f"w, "eros, foo-example, """ley, •

•

basil., rosemary thyme I

For the topping:

2'12 cups slicedfresh musiuwTlIs, I Jellow Jlet4leJ' '4 at sliced smoked duck breast • • , •

• ,

�.

2 tablespoons chopped croW's. Y4 cup olive til

Preh(.�t the oven to 4ZSDF. Divide the dvugh into

12 eqUflI..sizcd bills. Allow d'lC dough to risc a little

again, [hen roll OUt into bases with a diameter of 4 inches. and place on two baking shttts.

To make the sauce, hear the ail, SWCl'It the onions,

add the garlic, and cook lightly. Dice and ackI the

tomatoes, and stew (or 10 minutes until soft. Add

the tomato piStc, salt, peppel", and mixed hc�, and •

.tew for a furdlcr 5 minutes. In another �n, h�at the oout.'1· and sweat the mushrooms. Dice the

pepper and add to the pan. Spread [ornato sauce on

the pizza bases, then distribute the duck, the "t::g�

etable mixture, and the cheese. Sprinkle with

chivt.'S, drizzle with oil, and hake (or 10 minutc&

146

� M'I) IJEEp.fRYING

Souffles and puddings A light way with liver -------,

To make the souffle:

Cook the shallots and the garlic ., the butter.

Add the diced mlMrocms. seasor> Vv'i111

salt and pepper, and rootil"lR to ccd:: until the jUce frem the """"'� '"" evapcl"ated. Sprinkle vJth the herbs.

��:I

�����"""�:��

Heat II1€! oil in a pan, lightly br(Mlfl the finely diced livers and set aside.

Particularly airy souffles are very st."IlSitive and must

be brought to the tahle as soon as th(.1' have left the hear of the oven, as tilL1' collapse easily. They arc not rcally difficult to make ifyou follow Lhc dire.:·

tions carefully. You can use the livers of any type of IXluitry in a souffle, although those made with duck To make the sauce, heat the buner in a pan until lOilfl1ing and add the flour, stinir,g constantly.

liver have a I�rticularly strong f1aVOl�

POULTRY LIVER SOUffiE

Sclves4-6 7 '" poultry u..". Vz garlic clove

Coc* for about 1 minute, add the rrilk all at once, and carefully wI1isk until smootl1. SeasonVv'ill1salt.

!If lb blllron mushrooms

I/Z teaspoon chopped fresh t1t)me mul rosemary 2 oons "''''''' oil For the sauce:

7 teaspoons unsalted butter Allow thesauce to cool briefly. Thet1 wI1isk in the egg yolks one after theolher.

����������

Pour the sauce into a IiYge 1:xMt, add the mushroom mixtlXe and the liver, and mix in.

r

pinch ofsolt 4 cgg)'olks 4 eRgWrules butter for the disll

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Rinse the poultry livers under cold waxer, pat dry, and dice. P(.'CI the shallots and the garlic, and chop fmely. Wash and peel the

mushrooms, and chop finely. Complete the souffle mixture as sh.own in the picture sequence to me left. Butter a z...qualt souffle dish and Separate/y beat the t.'99 wllites until stiff and carefully fold into the Ilixtufe Vv'itl1 a metal

����: """". :=:::o:"==����=�

L _ _ _ _ _ _ _ -.J

F�1 a careluly buttered disI1 Vv'ith the souffle mixture, leaving a %-inch margin aroond the top.

Bake. Setw immediately, as it might collapse l i left 10 stand for 100 long.

flU with the mixture. Place the dish in a bain.-rnaric with hot Miter (175°F)

coming tWD-'thiJ'(ls of the way up irs

sides. and OOke on the bottom rack ofthe ovcn 15 minutes. Increase the temperature to 400"F and hake for 25-30 minutes. Serve the souffle in the dish, or spoon out individual portions. Serve with salads. vt."gCmbles, or sauces.

BAKING ANn ().B'-.... R"11NQ

J 47

oven to thoroughly W'KIer running water, clean. and dice finely. Pecl the shallot and dice fmcly. Mel! 2� tca�

spoons of buner in a frying pan, brown the shallot

t.... and liver, season wil:h salt and pepper, and TanSf t

to a l'Owl. AftCi' removing the CI1.lS(S, dice the toast, fry in 2 teaspoons of butter until golden brown, add to the live.., and allow to cool a little. In the mean­ time, peel and core the apple, dice finely, and marinate in the DI"ada; and sugar synlp before

POULTRY LIVER PUDDING WITH APPLES

adding it to the liver. Stir in the egg yolks, parsley.

and CTCty!e {rafcl1e.. Beat the egg whites until stiff and

Puddings are thc mare robust cousins of souffles. But

fold in. Fill 4 buu.croo ramekins wid) the mixture.

when they arc made with apples, as in this recipe.

of the rcmaining buttcl" on coch.

tht.')', too, arc lighl" and rem.'lin juicy, cspccially

Scrvcs4

7 ot /louI,ry t;,.." i ,nalln<

7 teaspoons unsalted butter ,ai,

Place in a baitHnarie. (Sl.'C right) and place a quartcr Placc on the oot­

tom rack of thc oven and bake for 30-35 minutes.

Tum out the ramekins and ammge. A vegetable

ragout, such as the onc here made from aspar3l,rus. is

a very suitable accompaniment.

3 slices toast 2 terupooru Caivado.

l Iable.¢oons sugar syrup

\

A bain-marie is a pan ofhot water. alxlut

1 76Of, whidJ comes about two-thirds of the

way lJl the sides of the filled souffll! dish or ramekins. The /Jain­ marie shCIIJd nol boil, nor should it cool 10 below 176"F.

-'

Far Eastern specialties In the national cuisines of Asian countries poultry is handled particularly well, part of a tradition stretching back over many centuries. The most popular poultry that we use in our cooking today - the chicken - is descended from the red jungle chicken, which was indigenous to Southeast Asia and was being kept as domestic poultry as early as 2500 Be. Therefore it is not surprising that, together with duck, it clearly dominates the Asian meat menu. It is first and foremost the Chinese cooks who, over the millennia, have developed poultry cooking that can justly be described as perfect: you only have to think of the breast and crispy skin of a Peking duck, a delicacy when served with paper­

thin rice pancakes and black bean or plum sauce. The true art of Chinese poultry

cuisine, however, is really seen when the cooks conjure up the finest dishes from those parts of the duck or chicken that we consider more or less as waste. There

are crispy baked chicken wings, braised duck's gizzards, and fine soups made with chicken or duck feet in a spicy mustard sauce. Equally creative use of poultry, in particular chicken, is made by the peoples of Soudleast Asia, whose faScinating combinations of spices, fruit, and vegetables of the tropical regions now enrich the international menu.

14'

Eating witn chq:)Sticks

-

tl1is methcd has strongly influenced the national (liisines of A9.a.

150

FAR fAsTERN SrtOAI.TIES

1lIere is a wide choice in Asian markets. Whole poUtry

pieces of potJitry, and giblets are arranged in a dean and appelizir\!) way. Evet1 the feet - ...mich � cOrslder to be waste -are hIghly !iOI.lght after, lor in (nina people use U'II2IT1

'0'''''

an excellent brotn. Tne cI1ickens with the wbluew skin ocwpy a special place in the range and are al� more expensive.

In many Asian wvntnes. vomere not �ryone nas a refrigerator, live poultry is sold in the markets. Consumers can see that the ora. an" in good condition, and are guaranteed freshness

1he Chinese are true artists in the preparation of poultry. The culinary range stretches from the very simple stir-fried cI1iden with fresh vegetables, as sold in the ccoksOOps Ofl the street, to

specialties such as �duck of eight delicacies. � v.tricl1, in tellTlS of the irqedients and the wort<. il"Mlll.a:l, reallycan be described

,,
FAR EASTF.R.N SVECIACnr.s

Chickens, ducks, and the wok Poultry is the most important meat in the cuisines of Asia, and the wok is used for many different cooking methods [t s i true that in the cuisines ofAsm, including that ofChina, not all food s i cooked n i thewok: there are

earthenware pots for soups, and bamboo baskets with matching pots for steaming. Nonetheless. the wok is the universal cooking utensil. a jack-of-all-trades. for it can � uSt.-'(\ to cook soups. to stL-am, to deep-fry.

and. above all. to stir-fry. [n its traditional form (and that is tbe best), it has a roundt.-'(\ base, is made of cast iron, and has two lateral handles. \'(lith an internal diru'neter ofbet\\'Cen 10 and 16 inches, it can cope with almost all dishes. except a large wbole duck. For stir-frying, a mainstay of Asian cooking thatbas become increasingly popular in the West, the wok is almost irrcplacl.-able, particularly for the many delicate poultry dishes. Because tabk knives rue not used in Asia and eating is done primarily with chopsticks, ingredients must be cut into small pit.-ce:s, which also

explains this method of cooking. TIle meat alld the vt.-getablcs are cut into bite·sizt.:d dice or strips. TIle

empty wok is heated vigorously, then very little oil is added and is evenly clistributl:d by swi.rling it around

inside the wok. The prepared ingredients are added one after the other, in a 8Cqut.'1lCe detennined by their

lU.J.uired cooking time, and are cooked in an astonishingly short time over a high heat while being stirred

constantly. A flat metal lltensil with a rounded front, its shape adapted to the wok, is used for stirring. TIle

result of stir.frying is mt.>a,t thai is perfectly cooked - which is especially important in the case of tender poultry -and crunchy fried vegetables with a lot of flavor.

15t

., .,

II

152

I·AR tASlHl.N :::''ECIAI.TIES I

Chicken curries In Southeast Asia chicl<.en is a favarite ingredient in curries Girries, which could also he called "'fPuts with a

grt.'8t deal o(sauce, arc made with wholly different ingredients depending on their country o( origin, 11,e range StrctchL'S (rom quite hOi curr iL'S with (ew VLl:Ctables and littlc sauce to soupy, SWl.'Ct and mild curries. Vcn;atile chicken meat toleffiu.'S all season� in�. The delicate flavor o( chicken is, il is true, Spi(e pastes are traditior.a!ty prepared in a mortar, but pureeing in a food processor also produce; a very goOO

"",Ie

somewhat overwhelmed by hot spices. but can still be tasted. To dL'Crt:..'aSC the lleat o(a curry, do not UFe

KYETHA H IN

11tis chicken curry from Burma is made mild by the addition of lOI1U'ltoes and pumpkin, and the very sparing usc of chiles.

Scrvt!S 4

I onion 2 garlic doves � Leaspooo crUSlled cardamom

2 mwll mile pepper> 1 stem lemon grass

tllC seL-cls or membrane o( the chile. (Do not get the

214 cups lil:."'t chicken stock (see pages 52 3)

hands and any impkrnents inunediately after \-\'OTk�

¥r-I CUI) canned I� chunks

juict: o(thc chile on }'OUr skin, and always wash your ing with chiles.) Girries arc SCJVI..>d with SL'RSOllal

vegetables and, of course, rice.

Git up the chicken (set· �es Z4-5) and then rut

die meat into bite�sb:cd piL"Ct!S. Chop theonio!l and

the garlic, and puree finely with the spicL'S and a lit�

tie oil n i a (ood processor. Heat the remaining oil in

the wok, add the purl'C, and SWl.'at (or 2-3 minutes,

stirring constantly. Pour in the chicken stock, add the meat, and cook for about 20 minut(;'s over a low

11l.'8t, stirring constantly. Dice the tomatoes and the

pumpkin, add, and simmer everything together over a low hL"8t (or a further 30 minutes. Sprinkle with ,

cilantro and serve hot.

FARE.ASrF.RN SIlOAlTlES

CHICKEN CURRY WITH BANANAS

Kt.kui 1llas curry is what the Sri I�nkans call their outsnmding curry, which is Cl.'11:lil nly devilishly hot.

If d'Sin:il, l. rt.'duce the spicy hl.'at by removing the

seeds from the chi l e peppers (fl.nd remember to wash your hands immediately afterwards). If the amy s i srill too hot, sprinkle shredded coconut on it. Curry k-avl.'S are a quite typical spice in Sri Lank(lll currit.'fi, but arc usually found only in dried

J teaslx.xm cnile pouxfer l reaspoon ctnnin I sJnig eu>ry lea"" (8 r"sh or 4 chul) 2� Cl.J)S light chid<en srock (see IX'Jl,'CS 52-3)

3 large bananas 2 red cniles, seated and 011 in rings

form in spt.'cialist Asian shops. Ullfoltunfl.tcly. when

Cut the chicken into 12-16 picc _ofl."qufl.1 size, place ill a bowl, sprinkle with salt, paprih, and

what gives this dish its umnist1lkable navor. ]-Iow�

gnrlic, and drizzle with the vcgeLwle oil. Lt.-avc to

driecl, they looc some of their �pidllt:ss, which is

l.'Ver, even without curry leaves, this is a fille, exotic

dish, for which bananas provide an interesting complcmt..'11t.

Scrv", 4

one 3-3'h·lbchkkrn I teaspoon sillt I teaspoon sweet JxlP1ika

2 garic l dwes, [mel,' crushed 3 tablespoons t:egetalile oil 2 tablespoons clarified lmuer I onion, {mely d10pped

marinate fOl' 30 minutl.-'S. HCfl.t 1 mblt.-"spool l darifit.-..d

buttc..>t in fI. wok and sweat the onion. Take the chicken pic..'CC5 from the marinOOc, drain, and sear on all sides in the wok over a high hcnt. Add the

�

�pict.'fi and the chicken �;tock Braise the curry over a

low heat for 25-30 minutes, then remove and keep warnl. Hc..'at rhe remaining clarified bUlter in

the wok, peel and halve the bananas Icngth�

wise, and (ry briefly. Ackl dl(� warm chicken

pit.'Ct.'S, 5C<""\tter with the chile rillgs, <\nd heat through again. If desired, sprinkle with freshly

�hn.>dck.-..d coconut and serve with rice.

153

154

FAR EAsrm.N sn=.ctALTIES

snuPS OF DUCK BREASf

WITH BEAN SPROUTS Dishes in which the bfl'ast of the duck is used an: considcR,d clclicack>s even in China. As the mc..'8t. is

precoohxl, the rcm,"ining ingredients remain crispy. Serves 4 % Ib duck breast J v.t a4>s fresJ, mung at sOJa bean Sf)R)U1S I ",,"lion

3 thin sices l fresh ginger, 2� lablespocllls oil ror the Szechuan pepper oil: 2 lalksl)(){)71S peanut oil

2 leastxx)Us Szechuan /J€I'l)ef'C{)T1\S For the sauce:

Vl CU,) chicken broll1 (see I;q,1CS 52-3) 2 teasj.JOOtlS rice wine. 2 teaspoons Ted wine tJlnqpr 2 !P'Iic do""

Pn.-heat the 0\'C1l co 4<XY'F and roast the dUCkbreast unril me meat is still pink. Cool and remove the

fatty skin. Briefly blanch the bean sprouts in ixliling water, drain, and cool. Cut the scallion into thin slices. Cut the ginger slices and the garlic for the AAuce into fine strips. To make the Sze..'Chuan pt.-pper oil, he..>at the oil in a wok until it boils. Roughly

crush the pcppcrcoms, add. and cook for about I

minut.e. Nlow the oil to cool, pour out, and re:;crve.

Make the dish as described n i the picrurc sequence. Preparation: Arst cut the roast duck irto tl1in slice, then into finestri�

Method:

breast

Bring the oil to a boil in a wok witll the onioo and tile ginget. Remove from tile Ileat. leave to

stand for 5 minutes.then felTlO\le tile onion and ginger.

Stir�frying The wok mal<.es it easy Rapid cooking over a high heat while..' constantly

stirring requires only a little fat. The meat Rnd

vcgctahles bc..'COIl)e cri!ip and crunchy. The wok can

also be used oct:asionally for dt.'Cp-frying, as in th�

Heat tile oil again until it boils. Add the bean 5p(ouls and fry lor a few seconds. stirring and turning cono;tantly.

Add the strips of dud: meat. It is partiCularly irrp:lrtant to keep dJl the irgedients moving cono;tarlUy.

Mix the ingedient5 for tile sauce together thoroughly, pour into tI"le \I\d(. and heat very QUid:1y. Arrange and JXIOI" the SzedllJCri pepper oil over ... -

recipe to the right.

DICED DUCK MEAT WITH GREEN I'EPI'ER

It Is bt.."St to usc the breast cI the dude. iN adt

dishL'S. IfJc..'5in.-.d, hov.'CVCr, you am RIso U8e leg

meat, in which case the cooking titN! 15 btger. Servcs 4

I eggulUte

For the spia.: mixrure: 2 wl::les,>OOfI5 Ughr soy sauce

2 retlSl)()OnS rice wine

I Vz rellS,XX)flS sugar 'h cup chicken "'",h (see 1"'1."" 52-3) I retlS,)OO11 sesame oil �t the l.'gg white until stiff. Mix tcgctht.'T the

ingrooients (or the spice mixture. Milke the dish as

shown in the picture sequence.

/

..-

Preparation: Cut the 000: meat into *-inch

Bring the oil 10 a boil in a wok, allow to cool a little, add the

dud: meal deep-fry IOf aOOut

3 minutes and remove.

Add tile diced pepper to the oil and cook lIntil it discolors sligt1tly. Remove and drain.

Ptu d1 fl'lCI5l of the oil, leaving 2 taHepxrs. Add the spice

"*ltft and heat. Add the deed meet and peweI'. and cook wt'ie S�1ing.

MiK the � cOlll5larCh in
rubes. Beat tt'le egg \.vhite. Mix with 2 tablespoons cornstarch and the salt In a 1xlWI, and add the cubes 01

meat. Halve the pepper. rerTIO\Ie tile !italk and

seeds, and cut into v,. inch squares.

L56

FAR £t.sra\N SrECIAJ;rIES

MARINATED CHICKEN \Y/ITH PEANUTS G:mtrasting flavors give this chicken dish its partic, ular character: on the one hand. the spicincs.<; of the marinade. which is dorninatt.-.d by the heat of the chilL'S and the spt.'cial flavor of Szechuan pePI'cr.

and on the other hand the swt.'Ct1sh taste of JX"anuts. Scn'es 4

% lb skinless cllicken breast 2 3 dried chile pePI"'" I teaspoon Szechuan peppercorns 2 scallions 2 3 celery stalks Preparation: Pour ttle marinade 0\Ief tile meat and leave for 20 minutes_ Fry tre cllile pieces and tile Szeclluan peppel'" on a will:'-mest1 spoon in the hot oil until crisp, and reserve.

2 garlic clooes oil far hing

For the marinade:

I tablespoon rice wine J rablesl)()()tl light SO')' sauce

To make the dked dJid<en:

Add the diced meat to the wok dnd deep-fry until t i is white and linn. Then remove Quickly.

Deep-fry me pednuts until they

are light brov.Tl Remove and drdin·on paper tcwels.

Pour out most of the oil, leaving 2% wblespoons. Heat the oil remaining

in the wok and briefly saute the scallions. celery, ginger, am gar1ic.

.Add the medt, chiles , and Szechuan pepper. Pour in tile spice sauce and dllow to thicken

wlll!e stirring.

Simmer for about 1 minute while stirring. Mix in the peilnuts and serve with rice.

J teltSlJOOn comstarch

For the sauce:

I cup ch�ken broth (>ee pages 52 3) I rablespooll lig#1t SO')' sauce I reaslxxm sugar 2 teaspoons lemon juice

Cut the ml:at into 3A·inch cubes. Remove the seeds from the chile peppers and cut the flesh into pieces. Roughly crush die peppercorns. Shred the scallions, the celery, and the ginger, and cut the garlic n i to .thin slices. To lmIke the marinade, mix together the

rice wine, the roy sauce, the salt, and the C001starch. Mix together the ingn.xlients for the sauce. Heat the oil in the wok until il boils, then follow the directions in the picture Sl.'quence.

&nl:' the chickt:n brt.'3St anJ Cut the mt.'R1 inm fine Str1p6. In a bowl, mix the egg white and ,_he com� starch, then stir in the meat. Wash the pcppL'fS, remove the seeds and pith, and cut tbe n(.'Sb intCl thin strips. Halve the chile pepper lengthwisc, remove rhe lIl.'Cds and finely chop rhe flesh. Cut the bamboo lohoo15 into similarly thin srOl:fi. Hear the oil in a wok, fry the Int.-at, rCITlOVC, and dmin weU. Hl.'at the IX.'1\nut oil, fry the k'Ck and the gin� whiJe stirring, tht.'ll add the pepper. chi le, and bam� 1:00 shoots. As soon as the Vl.'gCtabk'S an: rl"t. mix in the memo Sprinkle with rice wine and soy saucc, and S(.'Wi01l with snit and 5U�. GINGER CHICKEN

Scrvcs 4 one 3-1b dJicken

I onion J garlic dot:e 2-iru:h Ime fresn ginger I piece candiedstem ginger I IQIkpoon oil

CHICKEN \VITH PEPPER AND BAMBOO SHCXJTS

% Ib chicken breast on me bone 'h eggwhire

I teaspoon cOnlstard, I etldJ green and red 1X4>1)€T I cup bamboo shoots 2 tablespoons peanut oi l I 'h ''''''poon freshly chewed gmgcr

1 uWlespoon rice witle 'Il teaspoon salt

J green pepper

[re5lJly ground (unite pepfJeT Wash the chicken inside and out under running water, and l)fIt dry. Cut into 20 pieces and rub with salt. Pl.'C1 the onion and the garlic, and chop find)" Pl.'el the ginger and cut into fine slic'S. t. Dice the candit.'Cl ginger. Heat the oil in a wok and fry the legs and wings of the chicken for to minutt.'S. Add the breast piL'CI..'S and cook for 5 minutl..'S. Add the onion, garlic, C8ndk>d ginger, and fresh ginger, and fry. Add the \vall..'t and the ginger syrup. and deglU\.-<:e tlu: pan. Cover and braise the chicken over a low heat for 20 minutes. In the ml..'1'l.ntimc, scald the tom.-,to with boiling

q

waLl.'I", skin and dice, removing tht: base of the St u

and the sl.:'(.'(ls. Wash the green pepper, quarter,

remove the Sl.'t.'Ch; and pith. and Cut the nt.'Sh into

strips. Scatter the tomato and gfl..'CIl PCPlXr over the

chicken and cook for a further 15 minutes. &"3S0n

the chicken with �t and pepper. Serve widl rice or unlcavcrK,,'d bn.'ad.

Szechuan pepper

exan__

canes originally from

western China. The pepperrom is often u;eO IMloIe and ha.i a very spicyflamr.

SZECHUAN CHICKEN Here s i an outstandinc example ofthe hot Chinese cuisine thaI is cherisht.-.d in this partcfChina. You might think that the devilishly hot dlilc pepper

would overwhelm the delicate flavor of the chicken.

But far from it; the characteristic navOl" of tht.,

chicken is, t.he chile.

in fact. cnJ1ancoo by the spicy ht:at of Servcs 4

one 3,lb chicken

Ck'ftn the carrots and scallions and CUt into thill

2·inch long strips. Halve the chik· peppers length. wisc. sc..'(xl, and Cut the fk'sh into thin sliCC1). Heat

half ofthe oil in a wok and stir,fry half of the mari,

nated 1llt.'8t for 2-3 mi.nutcs until crisp and light

brown. remove imrnt:dialely, al� keep w.mn. Stir­

fry the rt.-roaining lTK.."at in the same way. and

remove. Add the roil of the oil to the wok and brieOy stir,fl1' the vcgctab!t.'S and t.he chiles. Adc.l the Illl.t.>a . ht->ftt everything togt.>t:hef, and mix well. Add further soy &lOCC as desired. and serve with rice

3 wlks,xxms light 5C1)' sauce. I lad lOOSl)()Of1 cornstarcn

J VI-2 carrOts

small mnuh scallions 2-3 fresh mJfPPe'S V. CliP wgetable oil

Wash the chicken inside and out under running

water and pat dry with Plpcr towels. o,mpletely

bone the chicken and cut the meftt into hitc·siZl-"Cl

piccc.."S ofabout equal size. Place in a dish, sprinkle with salt and the Szechuan IX'PPCr. and sprinkle

with the soy sauce. Sift the cornsrarch on top, cover, and marinate (or 30 minutes.

Of" noodles.

Variation: You can prc�e duck n i the same way. Complctely oc.llle a 3lh,lb duck and remove m06t of the visible (at.. Remove the skin and fat from the

hrt."aSt, and cut the meat into evenly sizt.'d dice. Use the same �ict:S and vCl,lCtab!t.'S as in t.he chicken

recipe. and (ollow the same Incthod. Season with plenty of chopped cilantro.

FAR E.Asn:'RN SFKlAUlfS

Chicken fried in pastry A variation on egg rolls

L59

peanUl oil far frying For the marinade:

I tablespoon dm-k sCf)' sauce '12 Leaspoon salt I lafhspoon rice tVnle

For ths i dish, you can usc either ready-made L'gg roU

pastry, or, as shawlI here phyllo pastry. The wafer­ thin pastry should be hanclkd can::fuUy, as it. dries OUt vcry quickly and bc...x:omcs brittle. KL'eP it moist with water or brush it with oil. Cover pastry not being used with a damp dishtowel. YOll can vary the ,

vegetabk'S for the filling as dL'Sired. Serves 4 as Rn Rppetizer

V1 cup canned Ixnnboo shOCltS V1 cut) ,)Cas

I -inch piece j;esft ginger J bunch ,l1iu!s 3 >hee� plryllo prutry !l2 Ib skinless chicken breast

Soak the driL'Cl mushrooms; as soon as they hRVC

acquired their normal shape, drain, and press OUt

lightly so that they are not too clamp. Cut the oom­ boo shoots into fine sttip:c;. Cook the peas in ooiling

salwd water until soft. Finely chop the ginger and

the chives. To make [he rMrinacle, mix the ingn:.--di­

L"1\ts together in a bowL Cut the pRStry into 5-mch

Sljuart:.'S, fill them with the chicken mixtucc. and fry them in the hot oil, a� shown ill the picnlfC sequence.

To fry the thicken in pastry:

Cut the chicken bJeast5 diagonally into equally thm �ices

Remove the stalks from tile soaked and drained m� and cut the caps into fine strips.

Place the filling on the p;'lst/y SQUaies. Fold the pastry first into a triangle and theo like an ....ope. .

Heat the oil in the v..d, fry the parcelsfor alxlut 4 minutes, tuming several tilTll"S.

160

FAR EAsTERN Sn:.c:tAmf.$

Beggar's chicken The chance invention of a poar man

This sttty about lx.�s chicken has been han(k.-.d down (or gcnera�

tions, and is as enchanting as a fairy tnle. Once upon a time there was

a poor man from the Qlincse province of Anhuci, who, driven by hunger. �"tok a chicken. While he sat happily by the side of a lake

and kindlt..-cl a fire, a feudal lord came riding by. Startled by the

apFcarancc of lhc nobleman and his amlLxt L'SCOrts, the poor man covered the stolen chicken with mud from the lake and threw it into

the fire. N fate would have it, the nobleman alightL"Cl from his horse to wann himsclfby

the flI{'. it was a long time before he ffi(wed on.

By now the chicken was CO\rcrec.I with a hard, bumoo layer of clay.

Furious, du.' pOOt man threw a stone �insl the casing, whereuJX:m it broke open, rdc..'Wling an incomparable alOma. Beggar's chicken is

still cookxt this way today. Stuffed with exquisite ingredients, wrappt.x\ in lotus leaves, encased in clay, and cooked

n i a co..u fire, it.

has become a spc..'Ciality known throughout tilL' world.

Traditionally. the chicken. VItlich has

been stuffed am speed v.rith cardamom, ginger, dlile, cilantro. and 9olr1ic. is; wraf:Ped in IotllS leaves, lied up tightly. and then encased in clay. TIle Chinese at50 mix finely ch:lpped rice straw into the day. later. they break open the baked clay \ .... t h hard. sharp IJIov..5 of an ax to m.teal the irKOmparably juicy d1icken

FAR EAsrf.RN SPEOAmES

161

BEGGAR'S CHICKEN

This version of lhe originaJ recipe, is made in a day

pot without the coating ci mud. The pot mU'it. how; ever, be hermetically scaJcd with a flour;arKl;water

paste n i order to achieve a r�-ult that comes dose to the original. If you can fUld lotus leavcs in an Asian

shop, and are not afraid of the work involved in

malting lhe day casing, you are warmly encouraged

to usc the old methodi for this. the chicken must be

cooked at a far higher temp::raturc, at least 425°F.

Scrvcs 4

one 3¥4-'lb chicken 1 teaStxxm salt. 10 peppercorns 'h leaspoot1 cardamom seeds

2 smaIl eMe p
3 tablespooru t'egetable oil

Also:

I stem lemon grass

I scar anise 1 celery s!al.k "''''''

Prcl'oCat the oven to 35()OF. Soak the day pot in lukewann water. Wash the chicken inside and out, and dry well. In a mortar, grind the saIL with the peppercorns and the cardamom. Add the ginger. chiles, cilantro, and garlic. and work into a paste. Spread some of the paste over the inside of the chicken and rub tlle remainder n i to the skin.

To make the stuffing. peel and dice the shallots.,

aoo roughly chop the Chinese cabbage. Heat the oil n i a wok and stir;fry the shallots and ChjnClSe cab.­

bage for 2-3 minutes. Add the l::emboo shoots and

t:h::! so,!, sauce. Usc lhi.'i to stuff the chicken and d05C � opening wilh a toothpick. Place the chicken in

� well�ed daypotand
star anise. and celery. \'(fork the flour and water into a soft paste, :.-preac:l il along the edge of the lX>\., and place the lid on lOp. Apply more paste to lhe out; i complctcly scaled. Cook in side, so that the pot s the oven for 2 hours. To �lVe. carefully open the

):'Ot with a knife. Serve wilh rice and rice pancakes.

��'"'

always live cIlickens il) Asian markets. Expertise is therefore r£'QUired v.hen W)iing. forthe plumage can also conceal ilferior quality.

162

FAR J : . � . . m · : J> J ' � SI'IDAtTlf.S

HAINAN CHICKEN WITH RICE

Wash the chicken inside- and our and carefully pat

This recipe from the island ofHainan in the South

dry. Rub the salt, oyster sauce, and garlic into the

of it arc cooked throughout the workl, wherever the Chinese have scttled. lt i<; a light dish, which can be

with foil, and leave to stand for 60 lTIin�

OUna Sea has become widespread. Various versions

made hotter by the addition ofa chiJe pepper. Scrvcs 4

2 teaspoons salt

J teaspoon o:>'ster SlI1/Ce J garic. l dooe. crushed J saillion I wbkspoon and I rerupooo fmely
14 cup coconut milk

I cu jnhicken broth ("" �5l-3) 1 wbkspoon finely
n i side and on the outside of the chicken, cover utes. Place the scallion, the celery, 1 tablespoon ofthe ginger, and. if

desired, the chile pepper n i the water and bring to a boil Place the chicken n i the liquid and cook for 45- 55 minutes.

until tender. Cook the rice with

the coconut miJk, the chicken

broth, the onion, and the remaining

ginger OVCl" a low heat until al dente. Remove the chicken from the hot broth.

remove the bones, and cut all the meat or JUSt

Ule breasts n i to picces of equal size. and arrange ()ll tile lettuce. Serve the rice and the chicken broth, including the cooked vegetables, alOngside. Serve

with a Mly sauce and, ifliked. a cilile or radish sauce.

We would describe this sub>tanrial - a slew, and it can certainly l;c

�;:� : one. It i,

can

also be served in

small portions as part of a Chin� meaL

strips 2-21\ ;nchcs I<>og. SooI< !he muohrooms and

drain well, remove the stalks., and cut the caps into thin strips. Cut the oo.mroo shoots into thin slices.

Halve the Olincsc leavcs lengthwise, cut them into 2�inch long pieces and then diagonally into thin

strips. Cut the leek into batons j � in� long.

Make the soup as described in the picture sequence.

vz

Y.J cup bamboo S/1000

!h leek !4 cupdark 50)' sauce pcamll oil for {rJing I oz ,.icc stick noodles 1 tablespoon peanut oil I tablespoon rice wine

To make the five

c.oIors soup: Spriri;1e the steamEd ctido:en pieces and Qt.eII eggs eYeIlIy with 2 taI::Iespocns of SC1f saure and IeaYe to infuse for 15 minutes.

He
chicken piece; and eggs U1tiI

golden brQ\M\ am reJT"oO\le VWl!lully.

4Y2 _ boil"vlclUcken broth ("'" />OIl" 52-3) Bring some water to a roil in a steamer. W35h the

chicken legs, cut into bitc-sizcd pieces. and place in a flameproof dish with the quail eggs. Cook in the 5 minutes. Remove, shell the eggs, and

steamer for

drain the meat well. Takc lhcscaJJup; from the

shells and clean well. Cut lhc belly of JXlrk into

Pou boiUng water OYer the rice noodles. Drain as soon as they are saiL Cut smaller as

reQuired.

L_.3::::����_-.J

Heat the pe
pepper.

ard add the boiling broth.

;:::::.::=-= Race the caIXlage leaves in a flan1f'proof � and t:tm distribute aU the ingrE(lients except the scallops on top.

ReIl"lC7o'e the leek from the I:::roth and poll" the

broth tl\Ief the layefed ingredients. Bring the soop to a boil.

ReciJce the heat ard simmer until everytnng is almostsoft Add the scallops and coo tirlt.e . to cook for a fev.> minutes.

!�������Aam�

in a.m..e <Wine. n-

... ...... many t
...... which in a.m..e m..Js is ...",.,d I"" Of '" a atew. which Is 6e'f"\Ied as a main course and ls only eeldom aca>mpankd by om., COO""" Vcge"bles c:l ell types. as well as rice or noodles, are used as

add1tlona1 soor ingredients.

CHICKEN'STEW WITH NOODLES

This ls a subitantial main course with vegetables

and rKXXlcs. l which. served in smaJl portions. can

also be used as a soup course.

&"v",4

2 3 celery sflllks I � Ieek I-nuh Pee, fresh ginger. Ihinly ,/iced 2 tablespoons ria wine I 2 � saIt 21A ct¢ls waLer or chicken srock 8 oz Chinese egg noodles 7 oz shiitake mushrooms

1 tablespoon light 50)' sauce

Make the stew as shown i.n lhe picture sequence.

Before serving. take the meat offthe bones and cut into pieces.

To make the noodle

soup with chicken:

"""'" .... "'""'" dicken in boiling water for 4-S mirutes,

retnO\Ie, ms.e with cold wata'", and drain

�����==��

Wash the spinach and Oy well. R€fTICM! the sUlIks and CUl the Iea\es evenly into sections about 1'h inches long.

Place the chid:m, celery, leek. and ginger in a pot, add the rice yjne, sah, and water Of ."'"

Bong to a boil quickly over a high heat. I"€duce the heat, and simmer for 1 hoor, skimming

"""....my.

=-. """,," h _ "" .... add

������l _briefly.

the �and

I

In a separate

saucepan, cook the

• ;"'"

mustyooms in salted water for ilOOul 10 mirMJtes. Add to the 5Oq) with their cooI
Add the � to the soup 5 minutes before the end of the cooking time and continue to rook. making sure that the spinach remair'6 crisp. Season \'.1\h the soy

.

"'""'

J65

CHICKEN SOUP WITH RADISH This combination mayappear somewhat strange at

first, but it will win you over with its fine tasle. Serves 4

l Iock

30< rice srick noodles

J -mch piea fresh gmge,-, thinly ,iud J 9 cups chicken Im>th ('!'£ /JCfi'S 52-3)

Carefully wa"h the c:hicken pieces, dry, and cut each inlO 3-4 large pieces with the bones. Wash and peel the carrots and radish. Make the sOup as de:o;cribcd Ix:low. O:cl: the rice noodles in salted water until soft and rinse with cold water. A(kl to the soup and reheat.

Peel the ginger, art. into slices, and crush >Mth a knife. Cut the leek in half leogltlwise and then into ql.li.lrtefs.

Place the chicken meat, leek, and ginger in the broth and oong to a boil. Skim off the foam frequefitly.

After 15 mil"lJtes of cooking, i!dd the G'IITots and the ridsh. bing bock to a boil and simmer gently fOf a father 30 minutes.

Carefully mix U1e rice wine, soy sauce, salt. and pEppef. and add to the broth. Add the noodles and cilantro and heel thtOLgh.

:=-===='-:::::::�;::�

����;;���� �������=

To make the dlicken soup: Cut the CilfJots into batons V� inch thid: and 1 111 ind1es long. Cut the radish il110 %-inch mid: slices, and wi th€Se into Quarters.

166

FAR F.ASTF.ltN SJ>t:OALTl..s f

=boil the skin until soft, carefully wash thc chicken

Yakitori

Iivcrs, remove the LOugh skin from cllC gizzards.

wash dlC vegetables, and seed the peppers. To make

Japanese delicacies

As an hots d'ocuvre, a �nack, Of a keOOb foc

barlX'cuing. cllese colorfu1 compositions of different ingredients enjoy great popularity not only in Japan.

thc dlickcn balls, place rllC finely chopped chickcn in a food processor and puree. Prepare the kebabs

and cook as deicribcd in the picture �uencc.

Before serving, dip once more in the yakitcwi sauce.

TIle basic ingredient s i chicken. but you can vary the dish by serving it with a wide range c1 accompaniments.

Serves 4

V4 Ib chicken skin

I eadl )'ellow and red peptc 4 scallions For the ynkit.ori sauce:

10 "" chicken bones

JJA cups dark soy sauce

'A cup dark scy sauce

For the chicken balls:

J cup find)· clwpped chicken brens, I muzJ.I beaten egg

I tablespoon cornstarch, dissolved in 2 Ulblespams UlQleY To scason:

==-.:::::��;;;;;;;

sall mustard lemon wedges

I ;

J6 1xnnboo ,,,,,",,,

Place the roasted bones with the ingredientsfor tile yakitori sauce in il SilI JCF.1X!l1 and reduCI:! by ilbout Or1e quarter.

To make the sauce, foast the bones n i the oven at

400°F for aOOut 35 minutes until golden brown. In thc meantime, prepare the meat and the vegetables:

Mix the purao meat W'ith the other ingrediEnts for the chid:en OOUS. kl"'oead well. and

shape into l-inch balls.

Place the balls in very gentty boiling water, allow 10 rise,

refl10\1e after 2-3 minutes, and

:=�=====::;;;;;;;

;::�=:;;� _�

leave to cool. '---_"".

Place the various irqedieots on the ske\NefS. the rn&3t, skin, and veget
mixin;j

Broil orgrill the kebabs on both sides, irrrnerse in the yakitori

........ . ""-.....

sauce, and cook again until if has be€n absorbed.

FA.R EA STER. ... Sr£CIALTIES

167

For rllC coating:

2 eggwhite� 2 t.ablespoam cornstarch 2 tablespoons chopped scallions with some of the W"'" part

Cut the meat into 1 Ij+-inch �uares VHncll duck. Make the dish as shown in the picture sequence. To serve, arrange the cruckt:n with thc diamond­ shaped pieces ofpepper and the lemon wedges. To makf! ltN! fri€d chicken:

Whip tile egg v.f1ite until frotlly and mix in tile comstach. Add thesalt scallion. and gil"9er.

JAPANESE FRIED CHICKEN TATSUTA Fall colors characterize rlus dish, which was named after the river Tatsuta ill Japan. Here faU unfurls its colorful splendor in the famous maple woods. TI,e chicken marinated in soy sauce displays the same varied tints, and in Japan the peppers arc even cut into the shape ofmaple leaves.

Tum tile meat in tile cOIT6tarm. tap to relTlOVe any excess, tIlen dip in the egg­

wfiite mixture.

Serves 2-4

1 lb skinless chicken breast 1 each red, green lind )'€Uow pepper cornsW1Ch far cooting t-lfgerable oil forfrying

41crnon� For the spicc mixture: 2 Lablespoons dark soy sauce

Heat the oil In a �k. add tile m&"lt. fry mtil crisp, tIlen rerT'rOVe and drain.

Fry the pEpper diamOl"lCl5 until they are soft on tile outside, I:ut for no longer than 30 seconds. Remove and season Vllith salt.

Preparation: Mix together the ingredier1ts forthe spice mixture and marinate the OIl meat in it for 30 nimIles. ReITlOVe the seeds and the pitll from the peppers and cut tile flesll into diamonc:l-­

shaped p«es.

WI

Cold delicacies The display of an array of cold foeds, long ago a tradition in the houses of the nobility and, later, the upper middle classes, was, to a large extent, used to flaunt the talents of the chefs, who evidently took great pleasure in making their cold creations true works of art. Reading very old cookbooks, we may marvel at the way in which cold poultry was transformed into pies, terrines, and exquisite gaiantines, the latter mostly in the original shape of the bird. Today, cold poultry dishes are as delicious as ever, and although they are no longer presented in the same flamboy­ ant way, a little decorative flourish is still welcome. To many people foie gras of goose and duck are the epitome of cold poultry dishes, but other, less expensive, delicacies exist too. Poultry is immensely versatile, combining perfectly with ingredients of subtle flavor as well as witll strong spices. It can be served as hors d'oeuvres, with salads, and as main courses.

I

Poultry liver �Ij!o in brioche dough with a lilli� of foiegas NId truffle -an exaJlllIe of the cuisine of autimes. when good taste and tradition roinddI'.

The rice salad should be dressed at teasll hour before serving. G;mish will1 halved cherry tomatoes.

•

Chicken, quail, and duck liver Poultry salads as appetizers and as substantial main courses

The size ofsaJads varies, depending on whether they arc to be served as an appetizer or a main course. For

exqllisiT.e sala<.l'i, the rule of thumb is: t}I.C finer t.he

ingredients, the smaller the portions.

RICE SALAD WITH !lOllED CHICKEN You can also make this dish with a roast chicken,

which, even wit.hout rhe brown skin, gives the salad

a hearty note.

Se""" 2-4

1 tablespoon �getable oil

I tablespoon [mel}' diced onion I ,,,,all gmk
For the salad dressing: ,

'l'i cup creme fmiche, I tablespoon light SIY)' Slluce salt, freshly groomd while pe_ 2 talkspoons chicken srock

Heat the oil in a saucepan, sweat thc onions and

garlic, add the rice and continue to cook briefly. •

Add thc chicken stock, salt, pepper, and saffrun threads. Cook unlil soft, as for a riSQ(to, and allow to 0Xl1. Chop the chicken and asparagus, and mix into thc rice wit.h lhe celery and mlL�hrooms. Mix together U1C inf,:redicnts for rl1C dressing, pour on

the salad, and toss.

Cbw DEUC'.ACIES

SAlAD WITH WARMQUAIL

oven to

salt �nd �p�r, �nd place 1 sprig of thyme in the

sioJrulch cavity ofeach. Heat the oil in a roasting

pan brown the qu�ils on all sides, sprinkle with the ,

sesame seeds, �ncl roaSt for 20-25 minutes. In the

meantime, wash the purslane and the curly endive,

dry, and arrange on 4 pl�res. Cut the still wann

quails into quarters and �rmnge two qu�rters along� side each portion of s�lad, garnishing with halved

cherry tOrrultocS. Mix the ingredients for the vinai­ grette tOb1Cther. Halve and seed the chile pepper, slice, and add to the salad dressing. Sprinkle the

vinaigrette over the salad and the quails. DUCK LNER

WITl I TWO KINDS OF ENDIVE

l11is salad can �Iso be made with the livers of Roast poultry is the hgHight of these fresh Sllmmcr salads

chicken or turkey.

Servcs 4

'h Ib ducl< liter 2 ''"'JX.<m.< fme/y ch�ped maiw.s

J 'h tablespoons unsalted bulteT, 2 teaspoons chqJped

fr"h_ley salt, frdu:y ground whir.e pepper

1 each 'lVItir.e and red endive For the vinaigrette:

pinch amy pouder salt, freshly ground white pepper 3 tablespoons peanut oil, J tablespoon wablUt oil

2 tablespoons cider vinegar, 1

Wash the liver under cold running water and cut

into 1)icccs. Heat the oil in a frying pan and briefly

swear the shallot. Add the liver and sear. Add the

butter and the parsley, and finish cooking the liver, stirring constantly. Season with salt and pcp�r. Cllt the endives into individual lcavcs. wash, dry, remove part of the bitter base and cut the leaves lengthwise into strips. Arrange with the lukewarm

livers on 4 pl�tes and sprinkle the soya lxan sprouts

over them. Mix tcgether all the ingredients for the

vinaigrette and drizzle it over the salad and liver.

172

Cow lli.ICAOES

Foie gras

The controversial delicacy The liver of the goose is, as in other typcsof poultry, among the fincst cuts that the bird has to offer. 1l'lC liver of the gcac (or duck) becomes a delicacy,

albeit a highl�' contro\'Crsial one, only when it

i here [hat comes from force�fed animals. And it s the opinions of animal rights supporters and

b'OUrmets diverge. Animal rights supporters portra�'

the force�feeding of gccsc as torture, but anyone

who ol:rervcs this procedure critically will sec that these highly scnsitivc animals remain unpernnbxl

by it. Stressed gccsc produce liver ofpoor quality,

which would be bad for trade; for this reason alone it

In the f>erigord. in France, Madame rei!f5 the gay geese 1Mth It.! •golden 1iIIer.· In spite of the plentitlA SlJlPIy of foic gms

from this and other partsof France. andfrem Poland. Htxlgafy, ilOO Israel. the increasing demand leads to ever rising pla:s.

ForCe-feeding of geese 4,5OO )Cars ago. A reptescntatioo frem the tOfT'b of is higl Egyptian flXlCtionary narood Tl. This is one of many pieces of evidenc.e that prO\
is logical thar the producers should handle their

!,'CCSC very cautiously. Compared with other types c( poultry, which arc intensively fanned in factory

environments, b'CCSC, which range freely OUldoors,

enjoy a life that is largely characteristic of their spcc;ies.

People long ago developed methcxls of fattening poultry that were intended as food.. This was cer­ tainly done to achieve more weight in the form of

PERIGUEUX

_ . Mn'. .. : IIURJ

marches au gras

meat and fat. The fact that such intensive fattening alsocauscd the liver to increase in size was a palat­

able side effect. As far back as 2500 BC the

Egyptians recognized [hal the goose, a bird c(

passage. becomes very voracious in order to gather energy for long flights, and put this natural tendency lD usc for fattening the geese they reared.

Since that

time, scientific cxperiments have shown that when

unlimitoo amounts of feed are made availablc, l:,'Ccsc

cat more than is given to them during regulated \\ho were

The marches au gras scll ll1(' full rarge of foicgas. From Noiember 10 Mardi, tt'x3e markets are the f!fTlXlria for 1iver5 in the SOUhwesI of Frarxe.

The range is vvide, and bC"':: � ptrchase ead1 livcr is more..• . chcd<ed by tll(' shrC\f\ld pu= All indentation left aftfl' P',;' with a finger ({)f1fitms QUa

highly inventive in culinary practices, al� discov.

Fresh or preserved?

fcd. flour balls made cf barlc.", softened white bread, and figs or dates [0 geese, and to ducks and cven

\Vhich is better. fresh liver or a processed product?

able [Q appreciatc this delicacy even in classical

twenty·four hours s i a real delight. 1he only reason

ered how [0 obtain particularly fine foie gras. Thc)'

Fresh, of course, says the gourmet, if it can be

obtained. Raw Ih'Cr that has been marinated for

peacocks, to p..oouce large livcrs, so gourmets were timcs.

to process it into a tcrrinc, although this can be JUSt

Nowooa\'s the fde gras market is dominat.ccl by

as great a delicacy. s i that not every gourmet has thc

France. The center offoie gras production is in

opportunity to buy fresh liver. Force-fccdingof btCCSC

southwcst France, with the best quality livcrs com·

s i not permitted in many countries. and thc liver of

ing from the Ptribm and GascOf:,>nY. Additional

1()()t\, l:,'Ccsc raised naturally, while b

supplies are provided mainly by Hung.ifY, Poland, and Isrnel. TI1C market is growing slowl." but con· stantl�'. France itsclf is experiencing the greatest growth, and domestic prOOuction has long since ceased [Q be !;l.1fficient� But nature im� quanlt;"'tive limits on this sensitive fattening method.

which can be carried out only manually. There is, therefore, no danger oflIlass production, andfoie

grru: ,!Jill always remain a superior, and corrcspond­

ingl." cxpcnsivc, product. The term feMe gras covers not just the product

made from � li,'Cr. known in full as foie gras

d'oie; the prOOuct made from duck liver -fok gras

de canatd - has alrcacly won a considerable market

share, and is acclaimed and appreciated by connos i ­ seurs for its powerful flavor.

is just not the

same. In Frnnce breedcrs sell fresh goose liver at the

I

markets. The Ii.vers, between 1 Yl and 2 pounds in

. weight, comc from b'CCSC weighing 13-171fl pounds.

TIle amateur would probably find it somewhat

difficult [0 check the quality of a fresh liver, but professionals anJ top chefs know what to look for.

A b� quality liver canllOl necessarily be recog­

nized by its color, which can vary from light beige [0

pink depending on the type of feed. It s i the consis-­

tency that the purchaser looks Rt. The liver consists

of tv.o finn lobes. which, after careful scparntion, do not fit tOf:,tCthcr again like rubber. 111e flOal criteria

n i volves pressing the liver with the thumb or index

finb'CT, which should leave an indentation. Removing the liver: A icne-fed goose has to be rut up carefully to avoid damaging the liver. It is cut q:KYl along the breastbone and the meat is detached from the rilx:age. Then the carcass is lifted off. and the liver is exposed and carefully removed.

Quality test: When the liver is p� \'Mh the thumb. the dep'ession must remain \fisibie.

Truffles are the second most important ingredient for a t('frincdc (ole gm5. and therefore they can always be found amorg the range of proructs at a rrwcIlI! au gras.

Good qualrty fresh liver.; arc smooth and firm. � the � and consistent quality is accepted for tile production of t emrn;s. The right color is light but not wi1itish. for that indicates too high a fat content.

/

A comparison of a foie gras of goosE and a fOiegas of duck. The dud; liver shONl'l here (left) weighs 1 'h JXlUnds. It was vacuum-packed and has reddish marks from the remains of blood that has leaked from the veins. The 2-lb

goose IM.-r was transported packed in ice. It is not akNays fX)SSiblc to distinguish between goose liver and duck liver soIcly on the basis of oolor, as this is heavily dependent on the fat content and the leed. In general, however, the livers of ducks ilre Vellovvisl1. while those of geese arc amber 10 vvhitis/l.

To dean the fok gras:

�=��::::��;;;::��

1----:;��:;!jI ; "i II :;:ll �

1

Using )o()lIr thumb, breilk down the inside of the INcr p� a little. Pnxeed carcfuliyso as not to pull them to pieces.

The liver mUit be at room ternperahxe. lhing aiy your

hands, calclully break it in half. Cht!ck each half iMividually.

Care should be taken if gcen IT\iIf1(s arE \risible

on the Ii\«. These rome from gan, and they and a large part ofthe SUfl'"Ol.Ildir19 area must be rut out.

RetTICNettl! sinews and pam of fat at the slilrt of the gall bladder, rutting out a wide atea arolJl'l(\, as rem.ain'i of gall may be coocealed underneath.

Carefully ood completely pull or scrape olf thethin skin of the Ii\.a" vvith the blunt side of a knife, �'king toward the tip ofthe liver.

:======� '-

Pull out the blood vessets. They should be removed as fully as possible, so that the Ifvef cannot bealme discolored by blood remains.

Reasserlrb e the cleaned liver and return it to its original shape. It can nQ\N be used iI5 -' required.

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

Ccwc.;UCAOES

Faie gras of duck

.... .... .... ,. -.., To make the pa1ait of goose

liver.

and goose

Which is better? Many b'OUrnlCts rank the flavor of goose liver above that of duck, but this sa}'s noc:.hing Rl:::out their true

culim'll)' merits; t.he somewhat more robust taste of duck liver also has its admirers. TIle quality of both depcnds to a large extent on the season; they are at their best in the winter. Animals slaughtered in the summer have smHller livers, with a lower fat content and a higher percentage of blood vessels; the}' <'Ire

more suimble for frying than for the proouction of

tcrrines. A<; foie gras is nO[ cheRp, leading chefs carry rut a quality check before purchase. They cut off the tip of the liver and examine it for color changes. As foiegras s i vel)' sensitive to air and light. a gra}' border Vlo to V4-inch wide points to poor storage or to aging; in cithercasc there will be a high dcgrccof wastab'C during processing due to cleaning. If the 1i\'Cr is to be fried, a small slice should be tested; it

-.

:===;:�=-_-==:;

�==c==:;=�

Place the liver in a food proces�r, season with salt and pepper, and mix thorougllly. adding theE!995one at a time.

Poor in the milk in a thin stream and blend to a

� p,,,".

should noc:. melt away in the pan.

Ensuring that the fde grru Rrrive al" their destina­

tion in good condition s i viral. One of the main

WB}'S to packablC them for shipping is to wrap them n i waxed plpcr and trnnsport them in polystyrene

�====;::"===:;

Addthe reduced alcohol. mix in �I, and fXlO'"the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve.

containers filled with icc. Care needs to be taken to ensure that the icc docs not melt and that the liver docs not come into contact with light. TIle other

method of dispatch is to vacuum-pack them. TIlCSC

packab1CS have the clisadvantabJC m.. '1 t when the air is

SlIcked Out, remains ofgall from the bladder can be

drawn out, and can then penetrnte the blood vessels

and spread widd}, through the tissue. Before usc, the

Butter a terrine, pour in the liver mixture evenly without ng bubbles to form. L _______� allClVlli Cover-with the lid.

livers should be allowed to come up to room temper­

the lerrine in a bairHnarie water (1760f) coming tvvo-thirds of the Wi'foJ qI its sides. Place on the bottom rad of a p-ehe.:Ited 35O"f oven. Ched: the temperature Place with hot

ature under a damp cioth.

PARFAIT OF GOOSE LIVER

For this delicacy, you can use the tips of the liver or

other pieces that become detached, for example,

when }'ou arc removing the veins.. They must be free

of remains of blood and gall.

��"':=�=� "..

"""".

Scrves 6-8

J..,.
2 eggs, I cup luketmrm milk

l leaspotm soft uflSal Wlbutte'/" for the tenine Reduce the port by half, and allow to cool. Make the parfait as shown in the picnlTC sequence. A pinch ofpreserving salt can be added to avoid a rapid color change after turning Ollt.•

The parfait will be fully cooked

;:====::;;:;;;

in 50 mintJle5. Allow it 10 mol and carefully remol.'e the top layerv.ith a pallet knife.

Using a tablespoon dipped in water. spoon out cones fa and arrange and of par it

WiJlm

' _J serve as desire
175

Terrine de foie gras A culinary delight

It has not been pro\'Cd mat goose li\'CT ccrrine rcallydid originate in

France, bU[ it s i undeniable that the French have a masterly understand, ing of its preparation. The quantities of ingredi.ents used for this delicacy depend on the weight of the fresh livCT. It will most often weigh around l¥� pounds. To make :l I-quurt tcrrinc, }'OU also nccdsalt and pepper,

I cup of viot8b'C port, a dash ofccgnac and, if desired. 31/.1 ounces of cooked black truffles. The cooking tifll(' is 40-60 minutes in a OOin...,narie kept at 175°F. It is essential rocontrol the temperature precisely to Avoid

the risk ofcontamination with staphylococcus bacteria. Cooking [em­ peratures of only lOO-l4
2-ptJe.lOO tcrrinc, as were recommended by some proponentS of11OUt.dl.e

cuisme, can be highl},d<'lnbycrolls. You can use an instant-read man ther­ moffiCter to check that a core temperat.ure ci 175°F is maintained.

Monsieur Jean legrand, an adl.oci!teof the dassicaI method of preparing a tefr;ne de fok: gras, inspects the finished dish

1 Carefully open up the goose livE'!" and rerno..>e anyskin and veins that are still

"''''''''"

4 Place the pieces of liverin a suitably large bov.t and pour on the jX)I"t and ""'"'"

5 Lightly � in the marinade-do not press. leave to infuse in a cool place for 24 tours.

7 Smooth the surface carefully v,.;n, 8 CC7VC(the terrine with a lid and cook in a bain-rn.Jne th.at has a constant you hands and even out any hoIklws temperature of 176"F. remaining.

6 Nr.:JI'lge the liVen: in layers and prESS lightly, so that there is no space I.:Jetv.oeefl them.

9 leave 10 rest in the t€!Tine for 24 tnxs. Tum oot and rerTlO\'C the fat. excess

177

FOIE GllAS PARFAIT WITH SNOW PEAS AND APPLE SALAD

Scrvcs 8 foicgras par!ait (see pages 174-5)

For the :L"Pic cubes:

J Y2 alPS poultry consomm� (see pages 54-5) pinch of salt, 2 teaspoons gelatin For the salad: I % cups SllUU! peas, 2 tart apples

PRALINES OF FOIE GllAS OF GOOSE WITH PINK PEPPffi CREAM lbis recipe ofrcrs an attr�ctive alternative way of

serving the rerrine de foic gras. Round scoops of

tcrrine rolled in hazelnuts or pistochi08 delight the

eye as well as the t8stebuds.

juice of liz lemon, 2 table.�pouns creme fraichc Spoon out tllC desired number of cone shapes from thefoiegras parfait. To make the aspic cubcs. heat

the consomrOC with the salt. Dissolve the gelatin in the hot consomme. Pour into a flat dish and chill to SCI.. •

To make the salad, blanch the snow peas in boil�

ing salted water until al dente, and refresh with cold

water. Pccl and core the apples. and CUt into batons. Place in a mixture ofsugar syrup, Calvados, and

lemon juice. and marinate for 5 minutes. Mix the

Scrvcs 4

-% lb tcrrinc de foie gros (see Ol)pu>ite page)

1I2 cup shelled, sliced haztlnulS

For the sauce: 6 rabiespoons liglv cream, ftace of � lime pinch of ,,"to I tabl"/XJOn IWded pnJ< I� For (he garnish: I small curly endite Using an icc cream SCO
the pralines, roll 4 of the balls in hazelnuts, and the

C'fhne frarche. salt, and pepper with half the mari�

other 4 in pistachios. ChiLI again.

the apple salad, and b'lunish with chervil. Place the

juice, allmv [0 thicken !>Ilghtly. then season with salt

nade. Add the batons. Arrange the !>TIOW peas with

To make thcwucc. mix the cream and the lime

cones of parfait alongside. Cut the chilled aspic into

and ac1d the pink peppercorns.

andservc.

and garnish with a small l:.u.Kjllet of curly endive.

OJI::cs. place on the prntcs with the parfait and salad,

Arrange the wcll-chillcd pralines with the cream

Aspic cubes: Turn the dlilled aspic out onto waxed paper. rut into strips, and then into

small dice.

178

Cct.o [);uc.o.C,1f:S

STUFFEDSQUAB LEGS

These morsels. their shape slighcly reminiscent of

cherri.es with stalks, make an unllsunl and delightflll hor-s d'ocllvre. As the breasts are often cooked scp'd.­ rately, this is an attractive way of uSing the tiny legs of squab, quail, or od'ICr types of smaU )XJUltry.

To make the aspic

Heat 2% cups of poultry <:0I'\'iCItllfllt and dissolve 1 tablespoon gdiltin in

it. Add Silll, pour into a deep baking pan. iIIld leave to set. Dip the pan briefly in hot water. turn Ihe ilSJX out onto

waxed �. cut into strips. and then into a.oo.

&rvcs 4

B scJlUlb legs

'n UiblesJXxm siced, l roasted hazelrwts

3 o;z: poultry forcemeat (see tecipe opposire) salt, freshly grOtnul whire pePlX':r For poaching:

Z!4 _ igIu ' pcodcry ,lOCk (see pages 52-3) Also:

2 reaspoons urualtedbutter !4 cup poultry gin.. (see pages 5Z-3) To make the stuffing, roughly chop the hazelnuts and stir them evenly into the forcemeat. Bone and stuffthe legs as shrn'ln in the picture sequence. Poach the fmished packat,>es in poultry stock with a temperature of 1 75°F for 25 minutes. Then remove, refresh in cold water. and allow to cool thomllghly. Coat the legs widl the meat glazc {sec recipe, right}.

,-----11..-...

\

To stuff the squab legs: """"" the thiglbone, sever the knee)oint,

_� and detach r-

:==�=:::":� �=�::::;;:;:'�=-=�

half of the: 1o.YCf" leg bone.

"""'" the inside of the legs with salt and pq:lper. and fill with the forcemeat using a pastry bag. Fold the skin over.

Bn.5h suitably sized pieces of baking foil with rOOted butter.

'.... ..

Place a leg on each, with the

cut side fadng dovm.

Stuffed poultry legs can be seM!d attractivdy with aspic and a small salad gamis/l. Wrap the legs not too tigltly and t'Nist the ends of thefoil. pushing the packages; into ""pc.

'

-

lIsing a spoon, carefully slutf the stomach ca\lily vvith ttv> forcemeat and place a small

truffle in eacI1.

Do notstutl too ful, as the fOf(efTlmt wilt expand durtng

cooking. SeYI up stOOladl

and

th:!

<::pen ing.

served cold Small stuffed birds can be served as single pOrtions.

Pieces of large birds, such as the legs, can also be

TI[' the quails into shape INIth kitchen Silins, roll in baking film, and lic lheends.

stuffed. Skillful boning and stu(fing will maintain

�=���=;;;;:::::;;: �

�r ��::��� �� �====��=

the shape of the bird. Usc your culinary imagina­ tion to create new and exciting stuffings. STUFFEDQUAn.5 It is ccrt..'linly time-consuming to stuffquails

in this wa)'. btlt- cXCCpt: for the glazing­ lhe dish can be made a day n i advance. Serves 4 as an appetizer For the forcemeat:

Poach the QUail packages in the pcltJltry stock with the botJqtJCt

gami Md leave them to cool in the liquid.

Place the quails on a 00 and coat them with glaze. Reheat any glaze that dI1:5 off and

repeat the prOCESS. .... _ . ..£ -<. ""' . ''_ ''- _ '-"'' '"'

pistachios widthwise. Pass the forcCITlC..>8t through a

strainer, season, and mix in the pistachios. Stuff [he quails, placing the tnJ(f1cs in the center. Tm<;s the

/HI rnbiapoons poultry Waze (se, pages 52-3) Prepare the quails for stuffing as described on pages 40-1. Make Slife the ingrcclienrs for the forcemeat

arc well chilled. Finely dice the meat, season well with salr and pepper, and puree to a stiff pastC'. Gradually mix in the el'C'Am and the foie. l,:ras. Chill the forcemeat. Pare the trumes thinly and halve the

quails Hrnl wrnp them in cooking film. p(� the quails in stock with a temperature of J 76°F for 40 . minutes. Leave to cool in [he poaching liquid, take out of the film, and remove the string. Before glaz, ing. chill well, so that the glaze adheres to the skin.

N> liOOr'I as the glaze has sct, halve the stuffed quails Icnb1lhwisc and arranb"C. Serve with cubes ofaspic, as described far left.

180

Cow D!ucAQfS

% cui) ight l cream 3 tablespoons ccld unsalted butter rubes

?oult�y mousse in asplC

I

J 'h teaspoons RClatin, 'h ClIp whipPed cream salt, freshly ground tJute IJCPIJer

TI1C pnxluction of thc finest Jll()llSSCl; and a'>-pics

"This recipe is suffidcnt for 8 !>mali mokls, each haWing

requires the best OOsic materials and careful tech; niques. Strong, full·b<x:lioo stocks arc the lcasi� for the mou:s.':iCS. With its sweetish taste, achieved by the addition of dessert wine, port, or Madeira, the aspic rrunds off the powerful flavor of the mousse.

appT()){imatcly 6 rahlcspoons. Make the c�

from the squab ca� and aJj the wine before dari;

fying. Dissolve the gelatin in the hot consomme.

Ughdy chill the moWs before CUlling the insides wilh the tclatin mixture. fu the �Iatin I:egins to SCI. quickly in iced water, do notchUi too many moLds at

SQUAB MOUSSE

IN GEwORZTRAMINERASPIC

the same time, because they cannot be COOled suffi;

ciemly quickly one after the oiller. Ifthe gelatin cooting is too thin, repeat the process. ClJilI the molds. PreI)f:1lt d1C oven to 35O"E Season cl1C SQlIab l:reasts with sal t and pepper, and brown on both sides in the hot vCJ,>ctablc oiL Roost for 6-8 minuu:s, cllcn allow to cool thoroughl\'. RemO\>'e the skin, Cllt the meat lengthwise into thin strips, am place in the molds as described opposite. Poursome d the remaining gelatin around the meat mips, so that the meat is finnly attached arnmd the ec.�. Refrigerate the molds again. Make the mousse and fill the prepared molds as 0Cscri1:ed opposite. Before serving, dip the molds briefly in hot \Volter and nun out. Sen'C with fresh saW

Serves 8 as an appetizer

For me aspic: 3� cups squab consommt (see lXV!f!S 54-5) I cup GewitTttmmint:T wine, 1 'h wblesIxxms gelatin For the breasts:

2 !llbIespooru vege,able oil, B Joo...s lemon balm For the mousse:

1% cups dark squab srock (see IXWe.� 50-I)

and a mild vinaigrette.

'

•

"

.

� --== ­

'">lI_. ' " � .� -

.-'

-

1

Fill only 4 molds with gelatin at the same time wilt! jelly, ensuring that no

air bubbles fonn.

2 Place the molds in iced IM'lter, allow 10 3 To make the set briefly, mer1 polJr OUI most of the

gelatin, leaving a thin coating in place.

t i add the cream, aod boil do.'>f'I to

creamy calSislency.

1

" the lop of the molds,

the surface.

a hand-held

""",tt'''''

11

mixer.

the mo'dao ... l and cooI l'1orcOJg hly for

mcusse.

!'TiM the skd

with ail lhe spices and the aIcct1oI. and bring to a boil.

1EL1CAClES

" .

• •

1 Spread the dl.lCk wi U'1 da� cheesedoth W'ith the breast side flush wrn Ihe edge, and season wth sail and pepper. Spread the prepared bcerneat e\'C!nIy OVEr it.

2 Salt and pepper stripsof fciegras, place in a line on the first third of the meat. and press lightly into the forcemeat.

r

I

3 By lifting the doth, roll up the galantine from the breast

side toward the leg_ lhe leg meat require5 fTlOfe heal than

the """"-

5 lie up Lt1e ends of the doth with string ard knot well. Do not tie the doth too tightly, as the gaiantinewill expand slightly during cooking.

4 It is important to keep the doth I81Jl vvnen rolljl'l9 thc galanti"le, to avoid possible � between the skin and the forccrne.;,t. 00 noc rol lhe doth inside the meal

6 Wrap the string arourd the loll at intervals of about 1 % irrlles, loopil"9 il secure at each crossover: in this way the galanlll1t' keeps its shape.

�

-"% 7 f'tlach Lt1€! galantlne in the poultrysfock wiLt1 Lt1€! bouquet gami for about 60 minutes. It must always be covered by stock. w-Kh must have a constant temperature of 176�.

/ ,

8 AlI(M' the galantine to cool in tnesfock, \Neighed down with a vveigllt If necessary. Ufl\M"ap, reroove any fat adheril"9 to it, ard slice.

Q)w J::nICACIES

1 83

A rolled galalLtine A pate with an unusual appearance

MoJem galantincs do not: remotely resemble lhe original form from which the}' derive, (or in the pa& the;e I�tb were presented in lihapo; that mimicked those of the birds wln;e meat !hey U!iCd. This was an art that

i place on the birds. &.il required a great deal of effort, even if the leg bona; and wing bones were lefl n

times changed, and the far more practical and easieHo-fiLl rolled pat� took its place in the kitcllL'TIS of the

top gastronomes. Free o( aU boncs, the meat can be rolled, wrapping around and enclosing the flavorful

forcemeat filling. TIle ingredieru:s for a galantinc must be well chilled; othcrwi!i(! they cannot be worict.xI. into an emulliion.

GALANTINE OF DUCK

&'rvcs 10

If.z Ib lick or chicken meal sall, freShly ground wlule IJCf)IJeT , "11/) IleilV')' O'CilJJl

1'l'2 tablesfxxms mif/le juice from II jar 2 teasJxxms cogntlC 2tableSpoons wltipfx:d cream I CLlCh duck m t lma duck liellTl !4 cu,) .�hetkd pisllIchios

5"" rooked ham 3 at foie gr.l.S ofgovse 2'14 cups light poullry stock(see IXwes 52 3) I bouquet gim

chill ab>ain Lhoroughly. &-ason the meat with salt

and pepper, and puree finely in a food proce ssor in several small portions. Gmc.1ually ackl the cream until fl smoodl forcemeat is pr<xllIccc.1. Chill this in a bowl set on icc. Then pass through a wood-frd.med sieve, place on ice agail\ and work in the tl1lme

juice, the cognac, and lhe whippt.'Ci cream. Findy dice dlC liver and heart, fry bridly in butter, and

drdin on paper towels. Halve the pistachios, fit)c.':!y

OJkken galantine: the chicken has been made 10 reserrble its OIiginal shape, as was the Q..IStorn in tWnes g;n! by.

dice the truffles, and cur the ham i.m:o Vi-i.nch dicc..

Utt rllC fote gras first. into Yz-inch thick slices and

then inro strij:ti, anc.l chill. Add the dicec.l inbtredi­

cnts to the forcemeat,
t1lC duck,

as explained in the picture sequcnce oppositc. TIle

�laru:ine can also be wrapped in b:iking foil and cooked.

Bone the duck ali dcscribe
pab'C 4 1 . Dice the B(klil:ional duck or cllickcl1

meat and chill. When well chilled, chop finely or ty.a.<;s through the fine disk of a

SiKes of the galantine

(af1

be attractively serVEd with a

salad ga,nish and aspic: cubes.

mcat gl'inder, and

\ ,

1 84

Q)jj) DaK'..AClF.5

roLD DUCK BREAST WITH SALSA VERDE

A spicy appetizer fcor tJle summer mondls, tJlis di!ih

is typkal ofthose made in tJ1C Italian regionof

Piedmont. Wh,,'n combined with the duck breast. rlle refreshing, slightly sour salsa verde, Italian (or "green sauce, is a delight (or rllC palate. n

Serves 4 as an appetizer

2 skinJe.�s duck brellSts, about Y2 1b eacll .",u, foeslu, grouruI w,"" pePI""

3 tablespoons vegetable oil 3A cup {meb chopped slwllols

liz cup dark lX>1ili1)' stock (see pages 50-- 1 ) For the salsa verde:

2 teaspoons red wine vinegllr

snit, freshly ground white pePlJer

Y2 �11P oUtJe oil

I s1uillot, I garlic clove

Piquant and refreshing Cold chicken breasts in aspic ar with spicy sauces

3 table.�IJOO11S each {mely chopped fre.�11 cuny ,mJ fi'U''''ifp=/ey 2 (mcllovy {dIets, {mely chopped 2 cornichol1.�, peeled lind {mely chopped 1 !/2 teaspoons toasted pine nuts, I Y2 teaspoons mpe:rs To gamish: lettuce leaves, quartered romatces

Roasted or PJached chicken leftovers can be

Season the duck breasts with salt and pt.'Ppcr, and

example, they make a fine addition to substantial

hcat rllC oven to 350cf After adding the PJultry

transfonned into other fine dishes. Used coid, for

salads made with potatOt':S, ncxxlles, or vdrious vegetables. In the following recipes, however, the

PJultry is prepared specially for the purpose, and only the besr part - the brca",t meat - is lL'iCd.

prepare as da;c,:ribed in the picture SCCjucnce. Pre;

stock to the duck, place the casscrole, uncovered, in

theovenand cook for 25 mn i utes. Remove lhe

breasts 2nd allow In cool lhoroughly. in the mean;

time, prepare rllc sclSli t.Jerde. Mix all the ingredicnu

together and leave to infuse well.

roLD DUCK BREAST WITH A HOT PEPPER VINAIGRETTE Scrvcs4

2 skinless duck breasts, lUxmt Y2 lb each For the vinaigrette:

V4 cup raspberry liinegar In garlic dove , crushed

salt, fresilly ground white pepper 'h cup du:pped )'eUow caul green peppers 3 table.�poons {me t;egetable oil Also: Prepare the duck breasts as in the following recipe and slice when cold. To make the vinaigrett'c, whisk all tJle ingredients togctJler. Marinate the breast

slices in the vinaigrette for aboul 1 5 minutes. Wash

the curly endive and the IettLlce, and dry. Arrange the duck slices in a fan shape, garnish with the lettuces, and pOllr the vinaigrette on top.

Heat the \/IO'getabie oil in a saucepan and brwm the breasts. Add the sIKlllots, sweat them until translucent, then pour in the cIlid<en stock and comPete the cooking. Cut the cooled duck breasts into thin slices wilh a sharp knife. Arrange the duck breast sikes in a fan sIKlpe. gamish with lettuce leaves and tomato quarters and top with the salsa verde.

ROAsr SQUAB BREASTS IN VEGETABLE BROTH This dish is
TI)C breastS are first cooked and then placed in a spicy lukL"w'drm broth. and left: to marinate

CHICKEN BRA\'(IN WITH CARROTS AND CELERY This recipe U� every �n. of the chicken: the

breasts for the brdwn, the legs for clarifying, and the

bones. carcass. and skin for the stock. Scrves 4

ovcmight.

Serve; 2 as an appetizer 4 sqllab breasts, wing bones auache(l

For the brtth:

6-8 /�

2 c/ooe, I Ix", leaf 3 whole allspice

� cup dtinl.y sliced celery 'h onion. dUnly sliced Prcl1Cal the oven 10 35
W
the cafTU(S, the celery, and the oni.on, and simmer

genLl)' for 10 minutes over a low heat. Set the broth aside, mix in the salr, aoo allow to cool slightly.

J OOUqUf' gami For clarifying:

1 Cltr/'Of,. 2 celery stalks !12 onion roasted in its skin. v.. ptc. l choe I Ixry Ie",. I sprig of"'me 2 clOtJes 6-8 peppercorns I

Oip the molds briefly

into hot water and turn out. Serve wit/1 the salad g
l'lz teaspoons gelatin % Clip dicecI carrots % cup diced celery 4 spri", freY. che.vil Utr the chicken into portions (see l)2b'<'8 24-5). I

Bone the legs and the breasts. Remove thelikin from

the legs, �'Ver I.he knee joims, and remove the thigh bones. Make a srock (rom the Ixmcs, skin, om.:ass,

and rhe bouquet gami, as described on pages

52-3.

To clarify the stock, chop the thigh mt.'1l1: very finely

and add t:o the stock with the clarifying ingredients. Boil down to 1 cup. Dissolve the gelatin in the

reduced stock and allow to cool horoughly. t Preheat

the oven ro 3500F. Scasotl the chicken breasts with

saltand pt. 1lPt. .... liCH.r n i hOloi.l, and roast for 10-12 minutes. Allow toc.:ool, lhen pat dry with paper

towels. Complete the bmwn as da;c.:ribed below.

Sea500 the squab bI(!aSts \'llith salt am pepper. trown in the hot OIl. am (aT'plete the (ooking in IheCM!l1. AfkM> to 0001 thoroughly. Make the broth. sirnrnering tr.evegetables, hert:l!i. am spices in the liq.Jid. Poor the lukewarm broth 0\Ief the (ooled squab breasts. (ewer. and marinate o-..enight in the refrigerator. The follov.ing day. arrarge the meat and vegetables on plates and servewitl1 white bread.

Blandl the GiJTOIs and (elery in boiling salted \!'.'aIel". rclresh with wid walet". df"ai!\ and Lay wt to dry. CUi the roast chicken breasts into eq.JaI size dice. Poor h.i:.('W;YJ1l gelatin '!\-inch deEp into 4 timbale molds, place 1 tinysprig of (hervil in each, and lei set. Mix the meatwith the vegetables, fill the mokls, and top up witll the remaining geIalin. Cool thoroughly for 1-2 hours befnr(' turnioo OIll.

Confit TIle term "confit" is ust:d to describe pieces of meat

pre;ervcd in salt an:l fat. Two meLhods of prC5ClVd� tion mlLO;( be used to tum duck or goose meat into

this lUlmili1:
ingredient in many disho;, such as eassoulcL and dlC

vt."gctable soup known as J!.ltrbllre. To make a oonfit, first removc the fat from the stomach cavity of the

ducks orgccse, and reserve. Cut dlC !limo; inlO indi� vidual pieces. Rub with coarse sail: or immc1'SC in

brine to pr01:ocl: the mcat against spoilage and 81" the

same time to dnnv out some of its natuml juices. Sprinkle with drit.'(1 herb; and refrigerate for 24

carefully scrape the salt and hours. Aftcr d1is imc, l

herbs offthe pieces of meat, and pat dry. Melt. the

duck or goo:se fat in a casserole and slowly brdisc the meal pit.'Ces, fully covered, over a low heat, stirring

frequently. Ifncces;ary add a little pork fdt to reach ,

the required quantity of fat. Depending on the age

of the bird, the cooking dme will be 1-2l!z hours.

Prq:ere an canhellW',:tre pot �, first stcrilizing it

with boiling w.lter, and then brushing the n i terior

with mclted fdt, thereby making it airtight. Arrdngc lhe meal. in layers alternating wilh rncltt.'£l fat. 1ne

A fresh salad of wild garlic and anly erdive is a good accompaniment 10 the roulade. II is dressed \\1lh a marinade ccnsisting of 3 � of olive oil. some balsamic vinegar and 1 tablespoon ofwater. 1,4 cup each of diced red ar'(l yell(MI pepper. and 1 scallion rut into rings.

top layer of 1n'2t t. mu.,>-.: be covered with about 1 \It

inches offat. After the contents ofthe pot havc

cooled. fill up with fat, covcr, and kt.'t.']J in a cool

place for J-4 weeks for the full flavor to dt'\'c1op. .

TIle confi.. will keep for about 4 months. Take OUt

lhe meat in portions anti on each occao;ion refiU the

pOI. with f
heal.

Preserving with fat With today's remgcl'dtion technology being taken

for gr.mted, many methods c:i prcscrvaljon have almait fallen into obHvion- unjustly, as many

tmdirional recipes show. One method of preserving m�t that has been known since time immemorial

involves coating it with, or immersing it in, fat. For lhis, il" is best to use types ofmeat that I.hcmselvo;

h:we an excess of natural fat, such ao; g<.'CSC and

ducks. TIlis method of preservation W·dS devdopt..'d

by Frcncll peasants in the days Wore deep ftCC2ing

to WiC the meal

of the birds that had heen bred

exclUSively for their foie grru.

o::w DF.LICAOES

To make the dud roulade:

IB7

r--�

Season the breasts �h pepper. place Ihe fr:ie. gras in IXlSilion. and

roll up; the pieces of meat should

"""'" �=���

lie witl1 kitchen

string. Ioq:ling it at

each crossover and r::dling eoci1 loop tight,

as lhe roulade will shrink �t during smoking.

�=��;:::::::==�

To prepare the dud<. breasts: Make an ind5ioo in the side 01 the (h:k breasts with a

sharp knife, so that a poudl is famed. Gentty beat Ilat are pIaa! next

Fully imnerse the rOUlade in

the prepal'Cd bOne, cover ""lt11 foil. and leave to infuse fa

to eac::h mller.

3""' ����

SMOKED ROULADE OF DUCK BREAST Scrv" 4

2 skinJess duck breasts. about 'A Ib eoch 6 oz cleaned foie grdS I dash each ,x:m. (md COgrlllC

For the brine:

2 dOt'eS, 6-8 ,�;:oercoms 'h bay leaf

Remove born the brine and so
Pat the roulade dry. lurn in sugar �tals, and hang l4'l to dry for 1-2 days. AITange for lhe roulade to be smokoo.

! ,prigfresh ""me, 2 wlwle dLspice The smoked rou\aUe after

�icing: the br(!ffil meat and the

\

fae gras center make an attractive contrast

Prepare the duck breasts as i1luslr.l.rccl in the pic� tu re scq'lCl\Ce. Cle-.lll thefcie gms (s(''C pages 174-5). season lightly with salt and lXt'PCr, �'Prinkle with dlC port and COb1f1ac, ard press into its original shape. The foi.e gms should be somewhat smaller than the brt.'aSts, so t"hat iL canllO( run OUt. Make the rOldade ltl s except Ihe salt. and sim� mer gf..'11tLy for 15 min.utes. Stir in the salt only after cooling. When smoking, ensure thai the smoke is cold. After smuki.ng for abouf 12 hours, remove the kitchen �tring and cut the roul
���:;::::;��=� r

] I;Cl

LiU:SSARY

Glossary of culinary terms Bain-marie: A deep baking or roosting pan in which delicate

poultry, game, veal, liver or fish, and cream. A mousseline

w.:It.er while cooking. 11le water comes aJ::Ollt t""to-thirds of the

Pan�ft11: To cook in hot_ far n i an open utensil.

foods, slich as terrilu, custards, and �16;, are placed in hot

way up the sides of the dish containing the food, and distributes the cooking heat of the O\'etl or stove mac gently and evenly. Bake blind To oo.ke a pasl:ry case Ix:fore it is filled. The pastry is usually lined with foil and filled with dried or baking beans 1:0 prevent the sides fulling in and air bubbla; forming during cooking.

forcemeat can also be made from vegetables.

Parfait: Forcemeat made from particularly fine n i gredients,

bound with gelatin or egg yolk, and sometimes lighrened widl

whipped cream. A parfait can be Ulmed out and cut into por� tions to serve. Pate: General tenn used in France to describe tcrtines,

galantines, and boucMe. As a rule, however, it means a force�

Bard: To cover poultry or meat with slices of bacon or pork fdt

meat. which is sometimes baked in dough.

to prevent the fle sh from drying Ollt:.

Poach: To cook in liquid below boiling poim.

Blanch: To immerse fcxx! briefly in boiling water in order to

Pot roasting: A means of stewing in which the f<xx! becomes

prepare it, remove impurities or remove I!.kin more casily.

Blanquette: Stew made without frying the meat first; a white

lightly browned, l��'(l for light poultry meal, veal, fish, and

game birds.

r
Quiche: Savory OpClHopped pic. The dough s i preookcd blind

parsk'y, dlyme and bay leaf. It can also be m
Ral,1Qut: Brnisc.-d dbh made with pieces ofmeat, fish, or vet.oct:a�

Bouquet b'2mi: Small bunch d herbs, usually comprising

and other hems depending on the dish.

Braise: To scar Hnd brown in hoI: fat, then add liquid and cook in a covered pot, often on a bed ofvt.-'l,>ctablcs. In a number of

EllIUJxan countries the term also signifies stewing, steaming, or boiling for a short time. Brioche: Unsweel:ened yeast dough, eaten as rolls or bread, and used for etlclosing meal or pates to be baked.

Casserole: Hat, hecwy roasti.ng or brdi<;ing pOt widl a lid; a dUI-eh oven.

Chicken oyster: o,"!iter�shaped pieces of meat from the back

of the chicken, the quality of which is equivalent lU that ofthe fillet:.

to produce a cri�p base.

bles, bound with a seasoned sCluce.

RaIuce: To boil down to reduce lhe volumcofliquid, 1:0 thicken il: and intensify flavor.

Render: To melt solid fat.

ScaUop:Very Ihin slice of meat, chen beaten to make it evCIl

thinner.

Sear: To fry briefly n i f.-n over a high heat, so I:ha.t the surfdCe is

browl1t.--d and seals in inl:erior juices.

Skim: To remove excess fat. Tllis can be oone with a ladle or

spoon, or with l)ape! towels. Skimming can take place dunng cooking, but the simplest melhod is to let the liquid cool, then spoon off the surface layer cf fal:.

Clarify: To remove particles and other impurities from food.

Steam: To cook in steam i.n a covered pot.

Deep-fry: To fry in abundant hOI: rdt um:il b>olden.

frying pan or wok, stirri.ng constantly.

Consomm�: Particularly strong, dear meat broth. Essence: Concellr:mred reduced stock.

Extract: Reduced essence.

Forcemeat:Pur6.x1 meal., fish or vcgctables that is well seasoned

and bOtmd. and used as a fllHng or stllffing for pat6;, tt.-'TIint.-"fi,

Stir�fry: To cook food quickl" in a little hot r.-lt inl-m open Stock: Liquid that is produced by !.:oiling meat ,u:xVor bones

and vegcrables in water, which takes on the flavor of rhe food

being cooked. Basic broth for SOUp6 and sauces.

Strain: To pour, rub or press a liquid, which can alsoconrnin

galantincs, cuts of meat, poultry, fish or \1t.-'Yetables.

cooked ingredients, through a strainer, sieve, 01' a dotll�lint.-'C.l

Frica-.see: Slewed or fried pieces of mcal: served in a thick

sieve.

white sauce. Galantine: Dish made from a boned animal - chiefly poultry

Sweat: To cook gently in a lil:t.le fill and no liquid over a low

heat, without the food browning.

or ftsh filled with a forcemeat. rolled, tied, alld poached in a

Terrine: A forcemeat placed in a �pecial mold lined wi!:h slices

suitable broth.

of bacon rilt or foil and cooked in the OVCIl in a baitl�l1Urrie.

Giblets:Heart, liver, gizwrd, and nock of poultry.

Timbale: A small cup-shaped mold or the di<;h made in such a

Glaze: A meat broth reduced until il lx.'COmcs Hrm when cold,

glaze is used ro add flavor, color, aru..l body 1:0 meaL<; and sauces.

Mousse: A fine forcemeat that melts in the mouth, mOOe from

mold. Truss: To tic lip pouluy 1:0 achit.'vc a desired shape for roasting. Velout�: Basic white sauce.

lNocx

General index

chilling and freezing 20-1

carvi.ng 123

clarifying 54

celebration 1 1-L2

clcanillgfoie gras 174 ColumlxI livia domestica 29 Colurnlxi Eivia livia 29

A African chicken )O

cru,p skin 1 1 9

legs, smoked 44 guinea fowl about 30

Coturnix cotumix 28

carving 112

Coturnixia/xmica 28

sruffmgBI

curry leaves 153

ArIas platyrllJflChos 36

force-eeding f of 172

Columbac 29

com,fcd chicken 7 1

American Quail 28

fdttcning of 43

cutlets, [Q make 110

H

clltting up POllllTY 24-5

Anatinae 36

Anser anser SO

helmet guinea fowl 30

Arucr cygnoidB 42

hollowing out 40

D

Anseriformes 42 aspic 177, 178

home-freezing 20-1 hybrid breeding 16

dl.>q>-fr(.'CZing 20 dl.'Cp-frying 138, 140

B

duck about 36

lxinl.-marie 147, 188

oorbc:cui ng 136

biking 138

cutting 38

Bankiv",J. chicken 2Z

stuffing 39

barbecui.ng 130

lTlL';smg 39

black tUT h .. )'s 3 I blanqucttc 78 boning 40-1

E

brdising 82

Emden goose 43

boiling fowl 70, 7 1

breast meat, techniques for preparing

breast ofgoose, smoked 45

F

brt:eding 16-17 bronze turkeys 31

fat distribution in chicken 19

[oie gras 1 72-7

c

carcass dres. <;ing percentage

17, 43

calVing 112, 113, 114, In checking ifcooh.xl 1 1 3

L liver. see [oie gras

M meatyidd 16, 17, 30, 37 Mdeawi, I}'llopaw 31

brcas[ ofcluck, smoked 45

Canada goose 42

JapanL-'SC quail 28

Emdcn-Toulousc goose 43 European quail 28

2&-7

J

..c1122 dlcstnuLS, fresh, to pt.

Mcliagrididac 31

N

free-range poultry 23

Nantais duck 36

frcczcrbum. 21

Nantes duck 36

freezing ZO-I

Numida meietlgris 30

fresh products 18-19, ZO

nutritional valuc 19

(1)'ing I 04

p

fricassee 90, 91

G

Pckin duck 17, 36

in aspic 46 Q uving roost 114

Galliformes 22

poaching 68, 70-1

fdt dllilTibution in 19

GaHus domesticus ZZ

fried n i paslTy 159

Gallus gcillus ZZ

breeding 16

"oysters" 24

go= aoout 42-3

clltting up Z4-5

chicken

about 22-3

oom,fecJ 71

roulade 46 smoked 44

Gallus Ixmkiva 22

breast, smoked 45

Phasanidac 30 pot roasting 99 poultry

in thcdic[ 19 liver S
preparing 20, 26 splitting and pressing flat 26 SIl.'aming 80 thawing 21 preserving with fat 186

Q

quail 17. 28

qlUllity tCSt forfoie gra.� 173

R roast chicken. carving I 14 fO"tlsting 104 rolled roost ofturkey 35 rolled turkey, smoked 45

s salmonella 21

s:luSl'lgcs made from poultry mear 46

skinning peppers 62 slooked poultry 44-5 squab 1 7, 19. 21, 29 squab, auving I 1 3

s[caming68 s[t..'wing82

S1.ir�frying L51

storage life ofJXlUltry 2 I stuffing under the skin 1 1 7

IhClltotnach cavity 1 1 6 l:c...'Chniqucs 39, 77, 81 swall goa;e 42

Szechuan pepper 157

T tc...'Chniqul."!l

boning 40-]

can,jng 1 l 2 , 1 13, Il4, 123

cutting up 24

splitting and pressing flat 26 stufflng 39, 17, 8 1 rrussing26,39, 1 1 9, lZ5

TIumksgiving 1 1 , 126 tll
TouI""", goa;e 43

trllmo; 1 73 [=mg Z6.J9. 1 19.IZ5

turkcy 1 1 . 17, 19,31 cuttn i g up 33 ham 46 meat 32

Index of reCipes •

parts ofJ4-5

roosting 125 scallop 34 smoke
1hll-ov o.gi ing 126-7 trussing 125

A Arroz con polio 94

w

B

weights of young fal.lcncd birds 1 7 wok 1 5 1

Baby rurkcy with a hd"b crun 125 Ilru-becued duck 136 Barbecul.'(l marinatl:cl chicken 132-3 Basic rec ipe for pizza dough 144 Basic risotto recipe 97 Basil chicken with Calvados and apples 1 14 Beggar's chiekt..11 160-1 Bistilla, the squab pie from Morocco 128 I3lanquctte of turkey leg 78-9

Blanqucltc with mango and shrimp 79 Blanqueuc with tomat()C..'S and pcas 79 Blood OI"angc sauce 66 BoiJcd (;hicken 164 BoIlito misw 73 Brai� duck wilhoranges 102 Breast: of guinea fowl wilh sage 106 Breasts of poultry. pan�frkcl l06 Brioche dough, goa;e liver in 143

c

Canard a I'orange 102 Champagne chicken with lobiter 87 Chicken and Iob>ter 87

Chicken

barbecued marinated 132-3 bo;lC
Hainan, with rice 162 to poach 70 stuffed, with red onion Sf'lUCC 76 Chicken alld ricc 94 Chicken bnl.iSt..xI with forty garlic dovt.'S 93

Chicken brdiscd in red wine 99

INU!XOfREclPES

Chicken brmvn with carrots and celery

galantine of 182-3

Guinea fowl

Duck and pepper kebab 135

185

roast, served n i two courses 1 1 2

Duck braised in red wine with thyme

Chicken broth made with a whole chicken 52

100

Chicken curry with oonanas 153 Chicken fricassee

105

Guinea fowl anll tomatoes, consomme of

roast 107

Guinea fowl cutlets wih t foie gras I t I

Chicken fried in pa.<;try 159

roast, with lentil sauce 66

141 Chicken in paprika s:mce 103 Chicken Martinique t 33 Chicken pizza, �moked 144 Chicken soup with radish 165 Chicken stew with ncxxl.les 164

smoked, mini-pizzas with 145

Olicken ina saltcmst

strips of. with l:can sprouts

Duck in cherry s:mce 118

Guinea fowl pie

H

Duck liver @locchi 56

Chicken stock 48

Duck meat, dic<.--d. with green Ix::prpc 155

Chicken wiLh giant shrimp 134

Duck stock 50

Duck roulade 187

157

Duck stuffed with poultry foreem<."at

12 I

Duck with Liver stuffing 120

117 Chicken stuffed with truffles 77 Chopp<.--d turkey breast 84 Classic roost goose t 22 Cock�a�leckie 63

Duck with meat stuffing

Olicken with spinach stuffing

vinaigrette

Cold duck brcHSt with Si!lsa U?rde 184

Confit l86

Consomme, p::lultJy 54 Consomme of guinea fowl and tomatoes

54-5

Japanese fried chicken Tm : uta

163

Foie gras. fried. wit.h a confit ofshallot

109

foie grns. Guinea fowl cutlets with I I I (-oie gras of duck. fried culx"S of, with

asparagus salad

108--9

Foie gras of gcx:.&:, pralines of, with pink

(Xppcr cream 177

C<X} au Riesling 98 Cal au vin with burgundy 98

167

Keba� 134

Kukld mas W71')' 153 Kyetha hin

152

L Lentil sauce 66-7

Foic grCl'i parf".lit with snow pt.'3S and apple

Light pouLtry stock made with chicken

Foie gras,

Liver stuffing, duck with 120

salad

Crt.'2m of chicken soup. French 61

J

K

Five colors soup

184

Hainan chicken with rice 162

Jambalaya 94-5

120-1

F

Cold duck breast wiLh a hot pcpp<.T

129

154

Duck liver with two kinds of endive 171

Chicken with pepper and bmnboo shoots

54

Guinea fowl in paprika sauce 89

Duck n i red wine 10I

Chicken with cheese stuffing I 16

106

cold. with a hot pepper vinaigrette 184

cold, with salslt t-erde 1 84

110

breast of, with sage stewed breast of84

Duck breast

Chicken cutJets, stuffed

177

carcasses

52

Cred m of herbs soup 59

Cream of poultry soup 58

terrme de 1 76 Fond blanc de u)laiUe 48 Fond de POHlel 48

CfC'.lm ofsquab soup 60

Fond de ooIni", 48

Cream of turkey soup with cucumbers 59

FricaSS<."C with fresh figs 91

CfC'.lm soups 58

Fricassee with morels 90

Madeira sauce 67

Fried chicken 140,

Marinated chicken with peanuts

Cream of chicken soup with JX-"Ppcrs 62

Curries

152

Curry sauce 65

Cutlets of guim."a fowl with Ide 1:,:rll.�

1 1t

D [}.u:k poultry stock 50-1 I)eep�fried poultry

M

167

Fried cubes offoie gras of duck wilh

Curry buner 65

Diced duck meat with green JX-"P{X.-T

Dough, crisp-bah.--d 143

Duck

asparagus salad

Metlt stuffing, duck with

108--9

Fried foic gras with a confit ofshallot tOO

155

Mini-pizrus with smoked duck bn.."aSt Morel sauce 64

N

Gahmtine ofduck 182-3

Noodle soup with chicken 164

Ginger chicken t 57

Glace de volaiUe 48

Gnocchi. duck liver 56

I=b,xucd 136

GClOSC legs wilh paprika &luerkraut

bmiSl.--d, with Onlngcs 102

G� liver in brioche dough

143

103

156

120-1

G Garlic chicken 93

140

191

145

192

INCf<X OF REOPES

o

Stufft.-d chicken With red onion S
Roast duck breast 107

Stuffed quails 179

Roast duck breasl with lentil Sloluce 66

Stuffed squab legs 178

Olive :,md chicken quiche 142

Roost goa;c. the classic 122

Stuffl'.-d turkey brt'aSt 107

Onion sauce, red 67, 76

Roostguinl.'a fowl served in twO courses l iZ

Onion tartlct.o;; with smoked leg ofturkC),

14Z

Roost sq\mb breasts in vcgcr--.ililc broth

Stuffing, cheese I 16

Stuffings, fmc LZO

Szechuan chicken 158

185

p P..m-fricd bre-dSts of poultry I (Xi

Roast squab with blood or-mge sauce 66 Roast sqU
Roast turkey liver WiLh poruto and k'Ck lOS

Parfait of gcue liVt.T 175

Ror.cttes of quail 56

Pizzas 144

s

Pizza dough. basic n:cipe for 144 Pallo alia c
Tru(f1es, chicken stuffed with 77 Turkey, Th
Saffron risotto WiLh poultry liver 97

Poularde jardiniere 92

Salt crust, chicken in
Paule
Salad with warm quail t 71 Sauce supreme 64

Poultl)' consomme 54

Sauce veloute 64

Poultry, clet.-'P-fried 140

Smoked chicken pizza

Poultry ere-.lln sauccs, white 64 Poultry glaze 53 Poultry liver pudding with applcs 147 Poultry liver souffle 146

Poultry mousse in aspic 180 Poultry pk'S from the pan 128 Poultry qucncUcs 56 Poultry sgllKls 170

Poultry soup, cream of 58 Poultry stock dark 50-1 light 52

Tcrrine defaic g
Tllanksgiving rurkf..J' 126-7

Pat-au-feu of poultry 72-3

Par-roosted squaoo in 8
T

",.fed 107

Turkel' breast cordon blcu 1 to

Turkey lcg

bhmqucne of 78--9 smok<.--cl, onion tartlers with 142

Sauc", 48. 64--67. 76. 1 84

Turkey liver, roast, with potato and k'Ck

144

Smoked roulade of duck breast andfoie

g
l OS Turkt.1' rolls 140 Turkey SOup. Cr'Cilln of, with cucumbers

Souf(1c, to Imlke 146 Soup garnishes made from poultry meat

56

59 Turkey with corn patties l24 Turkey with mushrooms 134-5

Soups 4&-56. 58-63

Squab, roast, with bloOO orange sauce 66 Squab and sage kebab; 135

Squab brc-dSt steamed in bCl.>f: leaves 80

Squab breast with foie gras sauce 1 (Xi

Squab breasts, roost, in vegcrable broth

w White poultry cream SlJUCl.'S 64 Wild garlic Sloluce 64

185

Q

Quail rosctt'S l. of 56

stuffed 179 warm, with saloo 171

Quiche. olive and chicken 142

Quick.fried liver 108

R

Squab filling. ra\'ioli wilh 57 Squab lell>. =ffcd 178 Squab mousse in Gewiirnr"
100-1

Red onion sauce 67, 76 Rice salad wiLhboiJedchich:n 170 Risotto. Mic recipe 97

Yakitori 166

Squ�b pic from Morocco. bistilla 128

Young guinea fowl. steamed, stuffed wit.h

Squab steamed on vCl,'t.'tables 80-1

Yoong guinea fowl �it:uffed under the skin

Squab risotto % Squab;

pot-roasted, in Sauternes 85 roost, with truffle sauce 1 U

Squai::6 in the pot: 75

Stullned young guinea fowl stufft:d with vegetables aT'd heri::6 8 1

R
y

Stt.,\\'e
Strip; of duck brt.'aSt with bean sprouts

174

vCg<..wlcs and herb; 81

137

This definitive sourcebook for one of mankind's most basic foods is illustrated with over 800 superb color photographs.

Over 100 step-by-step recipes show how to prepare chicken, turkey, duck, goose, guinea hen, squab, and quail.

Eight authoritative chapters are devoted to Stocks, Soups, and Sauces; Poaching and Steaming; Stewing and Braising: Frying and Roasting; Barbecuing: Baking and Deep-Frying; Far East Specialties; and Cold Delicacies.