London (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL LONDON HISTORY THEATERS ART CHURCHES PUBS HOTELS NIGHTLIFE MARKETS RESTAURANTS MUSEUMS P...

Author: Roger Williams | Michael Leapman

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

LONDON

HISTORY THEATERS ART CHURCHES PUBS HOTELS NIGHTLIFE MARKETS RESTAURANTS MUSEUMS PARKS ARCHITECTURE THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

LONDON

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

LONDON Main contributor: MICHAEL LEAPMAN

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Parliament Sq SW1. Map 13 B5. Tel 020-7654 4840. Westminster. Open 9:30am–3:45pm Mon–Fri, 9:30am –1:45pm Sat, 2–5pm Sun. 11am Sun. Concerts.

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Statue of Charles I overlooking St Margaret’s doorway

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A timeline

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INTRODUCING LONDON

FOUR GREAT DAYS 1011 PUTTING LONDON ON THE MAP 1215 THE HISTORY OF LONDON 1635 LONDON AT A GLANCE 3655 LONDON THROUGH THE YEAR 5659 A RIVER VIEW OF LONDON 6065

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149/ >@220>?4:9> :9 B3,? ?: >00 3:B ?: 20? ,-:@? ,9/ B30=0 ?: 0,? ,.3 :1 ?30>0 1:@=4?490=,=40>1:77:B>,?3080 ,9/>423?>,=0=0,.3,-70@>492 ;@-74.?=,9>;:=?#=4.0>49.7@/0 ?=,A07 1::/ ,9/ ,/84>>4:9 ,847D;=4.0>,=01:=?B:,/@7?> ,9/?B:.347/=09 SHOPPING IN STYLE G St James’s – shopping with history

G Old Bond Street for style G Browse in trendy Covent Garden and the Piazza TWO ADULTS allow at least £55

Morning &?,=?49#4..,/477D,9/St James’s Street 3:80:1>@;;740=>?:=:D,7?D Café at the National Portrait Gallery with a view of Trafalgar Square ,9/34>?:=4.1,>34:970,/0=> :39 :--?30-::?8,60=4> 1,-@7:@> Westminster Abbey ,? !:,9/:.6?303,??0= HISTORY AND CULTURE '30=0,=0, ,?'@=9=423?49?:0=8D9 9@8-0=:1490C;09>4A0[email protected] &?=00?1:=3423.7,>>809> G Art at the National Gallery >;:?>,=:@9/&?,80>>#,=6 ?,47:=>>@.3,>'@=9-@77 G Coffee with a view ?@-0>?,?4:9>@.3,>@770=> >>0=,9/!0B 492B::/ G Houses of Parliament 70,9/#40:@>0 ':?3477 :@?14??0=>?:?:9:77020 G Buckingham Palace 7:=4>?30;0=1@80=,?B,> &?=00?"=2:?:?308:=0 1:@9/0/49 ,9/?30 ;=4.0D-@?,??=,.?4A099?30 TWO ADULTS allow at least £70 .300>0>3:;#,C?:9 #,=68@>?-::6 -D?307,6049St *34?1407/,? 3,>-00930=0 Morning James’s Park >49.0 *,76?3=:@23 &?,=??30/,D-D ,849 #4..,/477D=.,/0?:Fortnum Trafalgar Square Afternoon & Mason B30=0 "9?301,=>4/0:1&?,80>> ?30:@9?,49'0, %::8.,9 '34>4>B309?30National ;=:A4/0=01=0>3809?-01:=0 Gallery :;09> #,=64>Buckingham Palace 4A0D:@=>071,93:@=,9/, '30$@009> ,770=D3,>.3,92492 3,71 '302,770=D4>1=00-@? 0C34-4?4:9>,9/D:@.,9 A4>4?:=>,=009.:@=,20/?: -@D=02,7>:@A094=>494?> 8,60,/:9,?4:91?0=2: >3:;:=?0,30,/@;;,>? 1:=,.:1100,??30#:=?=,4? &?,80>>#,7,.0?: %0>?,@=,9?:9?30?:;17::= :1?3090423-:@=492National #4..,/477D+:@8,D9:?1007 Portrait Gallery D:@.,9,11:=/,F ?0,1:= B34.33,>,2=0,?A40B:A0= ?B:,??30#,78:@=?,? '=,1,72,=&<@,=0,9/!07>:9> ?30 Ritz -@??30=0 .:7@89&0?:11/:B9 ,=0>0A0=,7.,1H>,9/ *34?03,77?:#,=74,809? ;,?4>>0=40>90,=-D>@.3,> &<@,=0, 849@?0B,76 %4.3:@C,? #4..,/477D ?3,?8,D-00C?09/0/-D?30 :=?30-0>?0A09492 ;,>>492/4>?=,.?4:9>:1:=>0 09?0=?,49809?20??4.60?>1:= @,=/>#,=,/0Banqueting ,*0>?9/;7,D:=>3:B House ,9/ '30>0>3:@7/-0-::60/49 ,/A,9.0 ,7?3:@23 Downing Street &00?30Houses of Parliament 7,>?849@?0?4.60?>,=0 Historic shopping mall at the >:80?480>:9>,70,??30 -01:=0A4>4?492 Burlington Arcade, Piccadilly ?30,?=0-:C:114.0> ?3090C?34237423??30 London: The Thames from Somerset House Terrace towards the City c.1746–50 by Canaletto

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Afternoon %0?@=9-D-:,?,9/30,/?: Kensington Gardens /84=0?30-:,?>:9 ?30 %:@9/#:9/,9/>00 B3,?>:9,??30Serpentine Gallery ':?30 0,>?4>?30#=49.0>>4,9, 08:=4,7:@9?,49D?30 :92*,?0=4>?30/07423?1@7 >?,?@0:1#0?0=#,9)4>4? Kensington Palace #=49.0>>4,9,> 1:=80=3:80,A0?0,49?30 #,7,.0> "=,920=D '0, %::8 A FAMILY FUN DAY G G G G

Take the kids to the Tower Messing about in boats Enjoy the undersea world Hit Chinatown

FAMILY OF 4 allow at least £200.

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G Sail to the Cutty Sark G Ponds and a memorial in the Palace gardens

G Tea at Kensington Palace TWO ADULTS allow at least £50

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EXTENT OF THE CITY 1561

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6(%-+)9!"%3(22)23%1 !186!204%%-1!)3.12 #.4+$%7/%#33."%(4-' $1!6-!-$04!13%1%$

In the pit

$'-085*' -'7'-0(5*' 45#)'%0..0/'34 4500&508#5%*5*'1-#:

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1535+3*0.#403'

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1534'/3: $3'#,48+5*5*'

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8'3'(033+%* 5*'#53')0'34 8*0%06-&8#5%* (30.5*'%0.(035 0(4'#54

(%: )1')-4%%-<2!3&.13()2 /.131!)33.#%+%"1!3%5)#3.18 .5%13(%/!-)2()-

WHERE TO SEE ELIZABETHAN LONDON *'3'#5+3'0(8+1'& 0655*'+5:0356/#5'-: +&&-''.1-'#--2%% / 5#1-'/// #/& 5*'#&:*#1'-+/4+&' !'45.+/45'3 $$'://; 8'3'$':0/&+543'#%* *'64'6.0(0/&0/ // ; +%503+##/&

-$'35 // ; #/& '((3:'64'6.4/ (#7'(+/'(63/+563'#/& #35'(#%54635*'3#(+'-' #.150/0635//

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5+'3'&4'#5+/)

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Audience entrance

1563-#)6'

48''146301'

1560

1558#3:4&'#5*

.#,'4-+;#$'5*26''/

15703#/%+43#,'

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1570

+.5%2,!$%&1., ),/.13%$2)+*!-$5%+5%3

1580

15883#,'&'('#54 1#/+4* 3.#&# 1591+3451-#: $:*#,'41'#3' 130&6%'&

1590

1603-+;#$'5*&+'4#.'4#%%'&'4

! & $ " ' ! " ! " !

3@36)+<2+.,<95/89?>38 A2/8>2/7/<-+8>36/-6+== ./7+8./.>2+>=97/90>2/798+<-2=:9A/<,/:+==/.>9 #+<63+7/8>&2/=?,=/;?/8>97798A/+6>2A+=.9738+>/. ,C#?<3>+8=?8./<"63@/<<97A/66&2/#?<3>+8=9?>6+A/. =37:6/:6/+=?2/+>A+= =7+66A98./<>2+>>2/9<+>39890>2/798+<-2C?8./< 2+<6/=38 A+=1/.A3>22/ ?:-3@//8/<13/=&2/:/<39.A+=29A /@/<+6=97+<5/.A3>2>A97+49<><+1/.3/=>2/ EXTENT OF THE CITY #6+1?/ +8.>2/3
St Paul’sA+=./=><9C/.

38>2/032+><+1/.+= 0++=/>>/<+8/ ,!/ London Bridge3>=/60 =?<@3@/.,?>7+8C90 >2/,?36.381=983> A/
%+%$3(%!1+)! ,%-3!1)!-!1,8!-$ 6!2.1$1.3%#3.1.& 3(%%!+,&1., 4-3)+()2$%!3()- 33(%%23.1!3).-()2 ".$86!2$4'4/!-$ (4-'&1.,3(%'!++.62 !3 8"41--%!18$% !1* =//:

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)2"%+)%&)- 3(%)5)-%)'(3 .&)-'2!-'%1%$ !1+)!,%-3!-$ 6!2.-%.&3(% #!42%2.&#)5)+6!1

TIMELINE 1623%2+5/=:/+ 9639:?,63=2/. 1625+7/=.3/==?--//./.

16423@36A+<=>+<>= A2/8#+<63+7/8> ./03/=5381

,C23==982+<6/=

1640

1620

1605?C+A5/=6/+.=0+36/.+>>/7:>>9

,69A?:>2/381+8.#+<63+7/8>

%!3(%1%$ (%+,%36.1- "8.8!+)23 #!5!+)%12

16492+<6/= /B/-?>/. 97798A/+6>2 /=>+,63=2/.

1650

& % & " $ *

(82)#)23!-$!231.-.,%1 )12!!#%63.- : $)2 #.5%1%$3(%+!6 .&'1!5)38

)2%74"%1!-3$)!1)%2 3%++42,4#(!".43 #.413+8+)&%.&3(%3),%

"

" ! " !

WHERE TO SEE RESTORATION LONDON ) #+?6=+>2/.<+62%%/ !-$ // : +28319 98/==+8;?/>3819?=/ /98.98=79=>0+79?=

>2-/8>?2/< 038//B+7:6/=+2+3/<39< 4?=>9?>90>2/ >29?12>23=1+66/36 &2/<3>3=2 ?=/?7 // :+8.>2/( // : 2+@/:9>>//B>36/-966/->398=

Ham House /

A+=,?36>38

,?>7?-2/86+<1/.6+>/<38 >2/-/8>?2+=>2/038/=> 38>/<39<903>=>37/38816+8.

THE GREAT FIRE OF 1666 -4-)$%-3)&)%$43#(!13)23/!)-3%$3()25)%6.&3(%&)1% 3(!3"41-%$&.1 $!82$%231.8)-' (.42%2

41)-' #!132 #.++%#3%$3(%$%!$ Peter Paul Rubens:+38>/.>2/ -/3638138 09<8319 !-$3..*3(%,3. 98/==+8;?/>3819?=/ #.,,4-!+'1!5%2 /&23=3=98/903>=:+8/6= .432)$%3(%#)38

1664–5#6+1?/5366=

16663
1660 1660 98+<-2C

9
1670

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16852+<6/=.3/=

+>2963-+7/= ,/-97/= 5381

16923<=> 38=?<+8-/7+<5/> 9:/8=+>69C.=

1690

1688+7/=9?=>/.38 0+@9?<90#<9>/=>+8> )3663+790"<+81/

16943<=>+8590816+8.=/>?:,C )3663+7#+>/<=98

% # ! &

!

!

%1./7=6-*<2767/<1.*637/604*6-26

;8=::.-<1.0:7?<17/76-76*6- +A<1.<25..7:0.,*5.<7<1.<1:76. 26

2<1*-+.,75.*62587:<*6< /26*6,2*4*6-,755.:,2*4,.6<:. :2;<7,:*<;?2<1(.;<6-.;<*<.; +.0*64*A2607=<.4.0*6<;9=*:.;*6- <.::*,.;<717=;.6.?4A:2,1 5.:,1*6<;:,12<.,<;;=,1*;<1.-*5 +:7<1.:;716$7*6.*6-716 *;1 -.>.478.-;
George I (reigned 1714–27)

EXTENT OF THE CITY 1810

Today

Manchester Square

?*;4*2-7=<26

B

Portman Square?*;

76<1.<7?6;7=< ;32:<;?1.62< ?*;;<*:<.26

6+-5+/ +58#4/#.'&#(5'3# 30:#-&6,'#/&.+-+5#3:%0..#/&'3

'80(5*'03+)+/#*064'43'.#+/0/0/'0( 5*'0-&'45#/&-#3)'45 #:(#+3426#3'4

63104'$6+-5 &0%,4*#/&-'&5*')3085* +/803-&53#&'

TIMELINE 1714 .7:0.

1759.?*:-.6;

+.,75.;3260

.;<*+42;1.-

1727 .7:0.

+.,75.;3260

1720

1740

1760 1760 .7:0. +.,75.;3260

1717*67>.:

$9=*:.+=24<;<*:<7/ (.;<6- -.>.4785.6<

1768 #7A*4 ,*-.5A7/:< .;<*+42;1.-

1729716(.;4.A B /7=6-;<1..<17-2;<1=:,1

1770

%

$ % ! # ) ! !

5:-+4*#4*4*#1'& 5*%'/563:0/&0/ 8+5*7#3+#5+0/40/-#44+%#-5*'.'446%* #45*+4#3%*8#:+/6.$'3-#/& '33#%' /'#3')'/54#3,

GEORGIAN LONDON *'-#:0650(.6%*0(0/&0/4 !'45/&*#43'.#+/'& 7'3:4+.+-#350*08+5 8#4+/ 8*'/ 5*+4.#18#4 16$-+4*'&

! 3#(54(-063+4*'& *+4 03/#5'3#+-+/)+40/ #/%*'45'326#3'

+)/#503+'40(5*'.'3+%#/ '%-#3#5+0/0(/&'1'/&'/%'

WHERE TO SEE GEORGIAN LONDON %1.87:<2,77/<1.%1.*<:.#7A*4 *A5*:3.< 4''11 02>.;*<*;<.7/ <1.;
;6"*44*441 1*:4.;*::A; #./7:5*6-%:*>.44.:; 4=+;*:..9=*44A .>7,*<2>.7;<(.;<6-;9=*:.; 1*>.;75..7:02*6+=24-260; ?124. 7=:62.:$<:..<1 1*; 077-;5*44;,*4.-75.;<2, *:,12<.,<=:.%1.'2,<7:2**6- 4+.:<=;.=5'11 ; 1*;;24>.:*;-7<1.76-76 $24>.:'*=4<;1 ?1.:.2<2; /7:;*4.70*:<1;82,<=:.;*< %*<.:2<*2611 ; *6-$2: 716$7*6.;=;.=511 ; ;17?<1.;7,2*4,76-2<276; This English long-case clock

5*-.7/7*3*6-826.?2<1 126.;.-.;206;2;26<1.'

*+4"03,4*+3'$03/ " '91-03'3&+4%07'3'& 6+-5+/5*' 4 #/& 4+/5*' 6453#-+#&63+/)# )306/&40(5*' 70:#)'306/&5*' (03.'3'3,'-': 803-&+/ ; 064'4'7'3#- %*#3#%5'3+45+% 03+)+/#-*064'4 3'.#+/0/+54 8'454+&'

1811 .7:0. 07.;5*-12;;76 .7:0.2;5*-. #.0.6<

1800

1776:2<*2647;.;5.:2,*6 ,74762.;?2<1.,4*:*<2767/ 6-.8.6-.6,.

!

1802$<7,3 @,1*60./7:5*44A .;<*+42;1.-

1820 .7:0. -2.;":26,. #.0.6<+.,75.; .7:0.'

1810

1830 .7:0.' -2.;+:7<1.: (2442*5'2;3260

1820

1829 76-76;/2:;<17:;.+=;

1830

$ "

%

=+07.76,76<7,)A1;&1+<7:1)6%6<14<0- -):4A <0+-6<=:A<0-+)81<)40),*--6 +76.16-,<7<0-7:1/16)4"75)6+1144)/-;;=+0); :758<76;416/<76)6,)<<-:;-):75 <0- ;<0-;-/:--6;8)+-;.144-, :)81,4A?1<0<-::)+-;7.07=;-;.7:<0- /:7?16/6=5*-:;)<<:)+<-,<776,76*A EXTENT OF THE CITY 16,=;<:1)41B)<176")81,-@8)6;176*:7=/0< 1900 Today +0)44-6/-;<7<0-+1-:<0- )B)4/-<<-;;-?-:)/-;A;<-5 16>74>16/*)6316/ ?7:4,*:16/16/57:- <0)6 *7<0;1,-;7.<0-$0)5-;-);-,<0-8:7*4-5 -@01*1<;

+(53$',5,10$.)$/,.: +3,45/$4(05(35$,0/(05 ;45,..2126.$351'$: ;--8 ;45$35(',0 5+( 5+&(0563:

Soldiers5):+0-,)6,

2=58-,76<0-.477:<7 <-;<1<;;<:-6/<0*-.7:- <0--@01*1<17678-6-,

Massive elm trees/:7?16/ 16A,-!):3?-:-4-.< ;<)6,16/)6,<0--@01*1<176 ?);-:-+<-,):7=6,<0-5

Carpets and stained glass?-:-0=6/

The Crystal Fountain?);

.:75<0-/)44-:1-;

5 .<01/0

TIMELINE 1837&1+<7:1)

*-+75-; 9=--6

1851:-)<

@01*1<176

($4105,&-(5 )133($5 9+,%,5,10

#('*811'2.$5(,0 5:2,&$..:).13,'",&513,$045:.( 1861!:16+-

4*-:<,1-;

1860 18361:;<

76,76:)14 <-:516=;78-6; 1840"7?4)6, )<76,76 14416<:7,=+-; :1,/<0-!-66A!7;<

1863-<:78741<)6 ")14?)A?7:4,;.1:;< =6,-:/:7=6,;A;<-5 1;78-6-,

18701:;
$ # $

" (

: )$45 53$,0446&+$4 5+,4&15&+ 923(448(3( &3144,0*5+( &16053:

(8.:,07(05(' &1//60,&$5,104 5(&+01.1*:.,-(5+,4 5(.(*3$2+)31/ /$'(%64, 0(44(92$04,10 ($4,(3

(58((0$:$0'&51%(3 4,9 /,..,102(12.(7,4,5('14(2+$95104 462(3%)($51)(0*,0((3,0*0 ,5 8$4',4/$05.('$0'3($44(/%.(',0 4165+10'108+(3(,53(/$,0(' 605,.'(4531:('%:),3(,0

THE GREAT EXHIBITION OF 1851 +((9+,%,5,10+(.',05+(3:45$.$.$&(,0 :'($3-&(.(%3$5(',0'6453:5(&+01.1*: $0'5+((92$0',0*3,5,4+/2,3(

7=6+14 -;<)*41;0-,

1880

WHERE TO SEE VICTORIAN LONDON :)6,17;-*=14,16/;*-;< :-.4-+<<0-;81:1<7.<0-)/- 67<)*4A<0-:)14<-:5161<0- -6;16/<76=;-=5;4(( 22 ; )6,<0-"7A)4 4*-:<)442 -1/0<767=;-2 0); )?-448:-;-:>-,16<-:17: !7<<-:A)6,.)*:1+;):-16 <0-&1+<7:1))6,4*-:< =;-=5)6,76,76; $:)6;87:<=;-=52 0);*=;-;<:)5;)6,<:)16;

The Victorian Gothic;
!0'(3",&513,$(.$%13$5(/(04 $55,3(8$43(2.$&('%:/13( 3(453$,0('(7(0,0*8($3

188976,767=6
42(&,$.%19)13 &$33:,0*512+$54

18911:;<

8=*41+07=;16/ *=14<16 #07:-,1<+0

18991:;< 57<7:*=;-; 16<:7,=+-,

1901 Queen

&1+<7:1),1-; ,?):,&)++-,-;

1890

1900

18901:;< -4-+<:1+%6,-: /:7=6,416- .:75)63<7 #<7+3?-4478-6;

1//(/13$5,7()$0 )135+(1(3#$3 8+,&+(0'(',0

)&30$*&494)"4&.&2(&%'20. 02-% "2(2"31&%&"(&2-9"44)&*//06"4*0/3 0'&"2-9 4)$&/45290/%0/;4)&.0402 $"24)&4&-&1)0/&$0..54&242"/31024 )&$*/&."#205()442"/3"4-"/4*$$5-452& Art Deco china &31&$*"--9+"::"/%37*/(.53*$*$402*"/ by Clarice Cliff 30$*"-2&342"*/437&2&%*3$"2%&%"31&01-& '-0$,&%40%"/$&*/2&34"52"/43$-5#3"/%%"/$&)"--3 "/9-&'44)&$207%&%*//&2$*49'02/&735#52#"/ &34"4&3)&/$".&4)& 3(-0#"-&12&33*0/7)03& &''&$43)"%#"2&-9702/0''7)&/ 02-% "2#&("/

EXTENT OF THE CITY 1938

Today

Formal evening wear,

*/$-5%*/()"43'02 #04)3&8&37"334*-- $0.15-30297)&/ (0*/(403."24 &34 /%/*()431043

+*!+*.*"2+0/"- .00-.2"-")!" ,+,0(-3/%"0*!"- $-+0*!-&(23*/%" *+-/%2.4"/-+(*!6 *)"!#/"-/%""/-+ ,+(&/*(&*"2%& % ,"*"/-/"!"-/#+-!.%&-" %".(""'#(+2&*$*"2 ./3(". +*/-./"!2&/%/%" #0..3"(+-/&+*+#/%" & /+-&*.*! !2-!&*. %&./" $+2*&.#-+) /%" .

A LONDON STREET SCENE 0-& "-"&#("*%$"*.,&*/&*$

,/0-"./%"0./("+#+*!+*#/"-!-'

TIMELINE "!(.(&'"/%&. #-+) 2"-" ./-0 '!0-&*$/%" ),&$*#+- 2+)"*.1+/". 1910

1921024)*2$5-"2 0"%-*/,3/024)&2/ 35#52#3

1920

1910

&02(& 35$$&&%3 %7"2%

1(-32../&((0."!&*/%" &!!("./"-*//(".+# +-(!- 5

1922*234

/"4*0/"-2"%*0 #20"%$"34

!

+*!+*+-*%-(&"%,(&* 5 .""*%"-"&*&/3 &$%/.2.,+,0(-./-+#+/% .&("*/*!/('&*$,& /0-".

WORLD WAR II AND THE BLITZ 02-% "23"7-"2(& 3$"-&$*6*-*"/#0.#*/('02 4)&'*2344*.&#2*/(*/(4)& )022020'7"2400/%0/&23 %00234&13)053"/%37&2& ,*--&%*/4)&*2)0.&3"/9 1&01-&400,2&'5(&*/ /%&2(205/%34"4*0/3"/% $)*-%2&/7&2&&6"$5"4&%40 4)&3"'&490'4)&$05/429

Seven new theatres7&2*-4*/ $&/42"-0/%0/'20. 40

.2(!&-("3 ,&*/"!/%&. ,+-/-&/+#/%"'&*$ 2%+" )" )+!"(#+-2-/&)" -".&./* "*! 0*&/3 As in World War I70.&/ 7&2&2&$25*4&%'02'"$4029 702,'02.&2-9%0/ .&/ 7)07&2&"7"9'*()4*/(

Early motor buses

)"%01&/4013-*,& 4)&0-%)023&%2"7/ #53&3

%"-!&+,-+1&!"! Throughout the period/&731"1&2 %+)""*/"-/&*)"*/ $*2$5-"4*0/3*/$2&"3&%."33*6&-9/ *!&*#+-)/&+* %"&(3"-(!30-% .*--*0/$01*&3"%"9 %&.&. )+!"(

1929340$, ."2,&4$2"3)#2*/(3 702-%&12&33*0/

1925

Bombing raids*/ "/% 4)&-*4:$"53&% %&6"34"4*0/"--06&24)&$*49

1939 02-% "2

#&(*/3

1930

1927*234

4"-,*/(1*$452&3 1936%7"2%"#%*$"4&340."229

%*602$<& "--*3*.130/&02(&"$$&%&3

1940 */340/ )52$)*--#&$0.&3 2*.&*/*34&2

32

I N T R O D U C I N G

L O N D O N

Postwar London Much of London was flattened by World War II bombs. Afterwards, the chance for imaginative rebuilding was missed – some badly designed postwar developments are already being razed. But, by the 1960s, London was such a dynamic world leader in fashion and popular music that Time magazine dubbed it “swinging London”. Skyscrapers sprang up, but some stayed empty as 1980s boom gave way to 1990s recession. EXTENT OF THE CITY 1959

The Beatles The Liverpool pop group, pictured in 1965, had rocketed to stardom two years earlier with songs of appealing freshness and directness. The group symbolized carefree 1960s London.

Today

Margaret Thatcher Britain’s first woman Prime Minister (1979–90) promoted the market-led policies that fuelled the 1980s boom.

Festival of Britain After wartime, the city’s morale was lifted by the Festival, marking the 1851 Great Exhibition’s centenary (see pp28–9).

The Royal Festival Hall (1951)

Telecom Tower (1964), at

was the Festival’s centrepiece and is still a landmark (see p188).

189 m (620 ft) high, dominates the Fitzrovia skyline.

The Lloyd’s Building (1986) is Richard Rogers’ Post-Modernist emblem (see p159).

TIMELINE 1952 George VI dies; his daughter Elizabeth II accedes

1948

Olympic Games held in London 1945

1955

1950 1951 Festival

of Britain 1945 End of World War II

1954

Food rationing, introduced during World War II, abolished

Minis became a symbol of the 1960s; small and manoeuvrable, they typified the go-as-you-please mood of the decade. 1960

1965

1970

1963 National Theatre

founded at the Old Vic 1971 New London

Bridge built

1975 1977 Queen’s

Silver Jubilee; work starts on Jubilee line underground

T H E

H I S T O R Y

O F

L O N D O N

33

YOUTH CULTURE With their new mobility and spending power, young people began to influence the development of British popular culture in the years after World War II. Music, fashion and design were increasingly geared to their rapidly changing tastes.

Docklands Light Railway In the 1980s, new, driverless trains started to transport people to the developing Docklands.

POST-MODERN ARCHITECTURE The new wave of architects since the 1980s are reacting against the bleak and stark shapes of the Modernists. Some, like Richard Rogers, are masters of high-tech, emphasizing structural features in their designs. Others, Terry Farrell for example, adopt a more playful approach using pastiches of Classical features such as columns.

Canada Tower (1991) is London’s tallest building. It was designed by César Pelli (see p249).

1986 Greater London

Council abolished 1984 Thames Barrier completed

1980

1985

Punks were a phenomenon

of the 1970s and 1980s. Their clothes, music, hair and habits were designed to shock.

The Prince of Wales As heir to the throne, he is outspokenly critical of much of London’s recent architecture. He prefers Classical styles.

Charing Cross (1991) has Terry

Farrell’s glasshouse on top of the Victorian station (see p119).

Vivienne Westwood’s clothes won prizes in the 1980s and 1990s.

wins the battle to be London’s first directly elected mayor 1995

1990

1982 Last

1985 Ethiopian famine

of the London docks closes

leads to Live Aid relief campaign

The observation wheel, British Airways London Eye, was raised during the spring of 2000.

2000 Ken Livingstone

2000

2005 2005 London

1992 Canary

Wharf development opens

1997 Princess Diana’s funeral procession brings London to a halt

shaken by bombs on the public transport system

2010

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LONDON’S TOP TEN TOURIST ATTRACTIONS

St. Paul’s

Hampton Court

Changing of the Guard

British Museum

National Gallery

Westminster Abbey

Madame Tussaud’s

Houses of Parliament

Tower of London

Victoria and Albert Museum

Big Ben and the British Airways London Eye

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Venus Venticordia by Dante Gabriel Rossetti

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John Nash’s Theatre Royal Haymarket (1821)

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HISTORIC LONDON HOMES 9?0<=3970=>3,>3,@0-008 <0.<0,>0/,<0>39=091>30<97,8>4. :90> John Keats F >30 34=>9<4,8 Thomas Carlyle F >3060B4.92<,:3030:<96414. ,8/:9:?6,<89@064=>Charles Dickens F'3039?=0>3,>>30,<.34>0.> Sir John Soane F /0=4280/ 19<347=061<07,48=6,<206C,=4>A,= Dickens Museum A30830/40/,=/90=>30 39?=0A30<0>30:=C.34,><4=> Sigmund Freud F =0>>60/,1>0<16004821<97>30 ",D4=-019<0*9<6/*,< :=60C9?=098C/0 $,<59<80<A,=>30 <0=4/08.091>30Duke of Wellington F 30<991>30,>>6091*,>0< 699'306410,8/7?=4.91 ,<9;?0.97:9=034=19<70< 397048!,C1,4<48,66C>30 <997=91&4<<>3?<98,8 9C60=14.>498,6/0>0.>4@0 Sherlock Holmes3,@0-008 Carlyle’s House .<0,>0/48,50<&><00>

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No. 3 Sussex Square, Kensington

No. 27b Canonbury Square, Islington

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No. 56 Oakley Street, Chelsea

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Laurence Olivier

WHERE TO FIND HISTORIC LONDON HOMES Thomas Carlyle p196 Charles Dickens p125 Sigmund Freud p246 George Frideric Handel p349 William Hogarth p259 Sherlock Holmes p226 Dr. Samuel Johnson p140 John Keats p233 Sir John Soane p136 The Duke of Wellington p97

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Geffrye Museum: Art Nouveau Room

ANTIQUITIES AND ARCHAEOLOGY "53+5,:.+359:)+2+(8':+* '8:/,'):95,'4)/+4:9/'-?6: 8++)+'4*!53+'8+.5;9+* /4:.+British Museums’s,/4+ )522+):/54:.+8'4:/7;/:/+9 /4)2;*/4-(55193'4;9)8/6:9 6'/4:/4-9(;9:9'4*-+39'8+ */962'?+*/4Sir John Soane’s Museum=./)./954+5,:.+ 359:/*/59?4)8':/):5(+ ,5;4*/454*54 #.+ Museum of London )54:'/493;).5,'8).'+525 -/)'2/4:+8+9:,853'226+8/5*9 5,:.+)/:?9./9:58?

Eclectic collection at Sir John Soane’s Museum

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VISUAL ARTS

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Samson and Delilah (1620) by Van Dyck at the Dulwich Picture Gallery

Stone Dancer (1913) by GaudierBrzeska at Tate Britain

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:.)+4:;8?8+4).6'/4:/4-9 #.+ Dulwich Picture Gallery /4)2;*+9=5819(?!+3(8'4*: !;(+49 5;99/4'4*'/49 (585;-.=./2+Kenwood House/9.53+:56'/4:/4-9(? !+?452*9'/49(585;-.'4* !;(+49/4,/4+*'3/4:+8/589 #.+ Saatchi Gallery/9*+<5:+* :5)54:+3658'8?3'/42? 8/:/9.'8: WHERE TO FIND THE COLLECTIONS British Museum pp126–9 Courtauld Institute of Art Gallery p117 Crafts Council Gallery p247 Design Museum p183 Dulwich Picture Gallery p250 Faraday Museum p97 Florence Nightingale Museum p185 Freud Museum p246 Geffrye Museum p248 Guards Museum p81 Hayward Gallery p184 Imperial War Museum p186 Kensington Palace p210 Kenwood House p234 Kew Bridge Steam Museum p258 Linley Sambourne House p218 London’s Transport Museum p114 Museum of Garden History p185 Museum of London pp166–7 National Army Museum p197 National Gallery pp104–7 National Maritime Museum p240 Natural History Museum pp208–9 Pollock’s Toy Museum p131 Royal Academy of Arts p90 Saatchi Gallery pp196–7 Science Museum pp212–13 Sir John Soane’s Museum p136 Tate Britain pp82–5 Tate Modern pp178–81 Tower of London pp154–7 Victoria and Albert Museum pp202–5 Victoria and Albert Museum of Childhood p248 Wallace Collection p226 William Morris Gallery p249

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Brompton Oratory

All Souls, Langham Place p225 Brompton Oratory p206 Chelsea Old Church p196 Christ Church, Spitalfields p170 Queen’s Chapel p93 St Alfege p240 St Anne’s, Limehouse p249 St Bartholomew-the-Great p165 St Bride’s p139 St Clement Danes p138 St George’s, Bloomsbury p124 St James, Garlickhythe p144 St James’s, Piccadilly p90 St Magnus the Martyr p152 St Martin-in-the-Fields p102 St Mary-le-Bow p147 St Mary-le-Strand p118 St Mary Woolnoth p145 St Pancras p130 St Paul’s Cathedral pp148-51 St Paul’s Church p114 St Stephen Walbrook p146 Southwark Cathedral p176 Temple Church p139 Westminster Abbey pp76-9 Westminster Cathedral p81

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WHERE TO FIND THE PARKS Barbican Centre p165 Battersea Park p251 Berkeley Square p270 Bunhill Fields p168 Chelsea Physic Garden p197 Chiswick House pp259 Fenton House p233 Gray’s Inn p141 Green Park p97 Greenwich Park p243 Ham House p252 Hampstead Heath p234 Hampton Court pp254–7 Highgate Cemetery p246 The Hill p235 Holland Park p218 Hyde Park p211 Kensington Gardens pp210–11 Kensington Palace p210 Kenwood House pp234–5 Kew Gardens pp260–61 Lincoln’s Inn Fields p137 London Zoo p227 Middle Temple p139 Museum of Garden History p185 Osterley Park p253 Parliament Hill Fields pp234–5 Regent’s Park p224 Richmond Park p252 Russell Square p125 St James’s Park p93 Soho Square p108 Syon House p253

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#5?(2:?(4+*533,8*,685<0+,:/,:=56804*06(2 95;8*,95-54+54980*/*(2,4+(85-*,8,3540(2 ,<,4:9";(04:(4+52+-(9/054,+:/,9,,<,4:9 3(?),);:=/(:3(?9,,3(8*(4,80:;(2/(9 8,(2/09:580*(23,(404.A3(4?5-:/,*(60:(29 *,8,3540,9580.04(:,+04:/,0++2,.,9 ROYAL CEREMONIES 2:/5;./:/,";,,49852,09 45=2(8.,2?9?3)520*:/, ;(8+(:;*104./(3!(2(*, 9:0226(:8529:/,6(2(*, .85;4+9%/,0368,990<,*,8, 354?5-:/,Changing of the GuardA+(@@204.;40-5839 9/5;:,+*533(4+93020:(8? 3;90*A*54909:95-:/, 2+ ;(8+=/0*/-5839;604:/, 6(2(*,-58,*5;8:.504.5-- +;:?(4+/(4+04.5<,8:5:/, ,= ;(8+ %/, ;(8+ *54909:95-:/8,,5--0*,89(4+ 3,4=/,4:/,";,,40904 8,90+,4*,);:542?:/8,, 5--0*,89(4+ 3,4=/,49/, 09(=(?%/,*,8,354?:(1,9 62(*,04-854:5-:/,6(2(*,4 (45:/,8*/(4.,5<,8*,8,354? :/,";,,490-,;(8+9:8(<,2 +(02?-853?+, !(81(88(*19 :5589, ;(8+9!(8(+, One of the Queen’s Life Guards

;(8+9!(8(+,%/09:(1,9 62(*,:/8,,58-5;8 ,<,404.9(=,,104:/, -58:40./:2,(+04.;6:5 %855604.:/,525;8 %/,96,*:(*;2(8 State Opening of Parliament=/,4:/,

";,,456,49:/, (44;(26(820(3,4:(8? %/, Ceremony of the 9,9905404:/,5;9,5- Keys(::/,%5=,85- 58+9A;9;(22?04 54+540954,5-:/, 5<,3),8A0945: *(60:(29359::03,2,99 56,4:5:/,.,4,8(2 *,8,3540,9-:,8,(*/ 6;)20*(2:/5;./0:09 5-:/,%5=,8.(:,9/(9 45=:,2,<09,+%/, ),,425*1,+:/,2(9: /;.,85?(2685*,99054 659:0995;4+,+)?( =/0*/35<,9-853 A Queen’s :8;36,:,8),-58,:/, ;*104./(3!(2(*,:5 Guard in winter 1,?9(8,9,*;8,+04 ',9:3049:,809 :/,";,,495;9, /5=,<,8(3(.40-0*,4: %/, %5=,85-54+54(4+ 90./:=0:/:/,";,,4:8(<,204. ?+,!(81(8,(295:/,9*,4, 04:/,/0./2?584(:,809/$:(:, 5- Royal Salutes=/0*/:(1, 5(*/+8(=4)?-5;8/589,9 62(*,54)08:/+(?9(4+5:/,8 5**(90549:/85;./5;::/,?,(8 MILITARY CEREMONIES :9;*/:03,9 85;4+9(8, -08,+04?+,!(81(:4554 (4+ 85;4+9(::/,%5=,8(: %/,,45:(6/04'/0:,/(2209 :/,9,::04.-58(*,8,354?/,2+ 63 %/,96,*:(*2,04?+, 54 Remembrance Sunday:5 !(8109(9:08804.54,(9 .0<,:/(419:5:/59,=/5 /589,9(4+90> 65;4+,8 +0,+-0./:04.04(4?*54-20*: *(445499=08204:562(*,(4+ -853'582+'(854=(8+9 :/,85(85-:/,.;49),.049 (:054(2 Navy Day09 %/,*53)04(:0545- 6(.,(4:8?*525;8(4+3;90* *533,358(:,+)?(6(8(+, +5=4:/,(22-5225=,+)?( 3(1,9:/,(44;(2Trooping the Colour:/,/0./6504:5- 9,8<0*,/,2+(:,29549 54+549*,8,3540(2?,(8%/, 52;3404%8(-(2.(8$7;(8, ";,,4:(1,9:/,#5?(2$(2;:, (4+(-:,8/,8:85569/(<, 3(8*/,+6(9:9/,2,(+9:/,3 :5;*104./(3!(2(*,=/,8, (9,*54+3(8*/6(9::(1,9 62(*, %/,),9:62(*,:5=(:*/ :/0996,*:(*2,09-853:/, 589, ;(8+9!(8(+,90+, 5-$:(3,99!(81 (4+95-:/,5;9,/52+ (<(28?(4+:/,55: ;(8+99:(.,:/, *,8,354?5-Beating the Retreat(:589, Royal salute, Tower of London

Trooping the Colour

%

WHERE TO FIND THE CEREMONIES

Silent Change ceremony at Guildhall for the new Lord Mayor

=/53,,:-58(*,8,354?(: :/,'(1,-0,2+%5=,8=/,8,/, =(91022,+Oak Apple Day 5<,3),809:/,-5*;95-:/, *533,358(:,904./(82,9 92;*1?,9*(6,-853:/, 0:?5-54+549*,8,3540(2 ?,(8::/,Silent Change04 !(820(3,4:(8?-58*,95- 20<,8 853=,2204 %/,04. ;02+/(22:/,5;:.504.58+ 3(4(.,+:5*54*,(2/039,2- (?58/(4+95<,89?3)529 04(/5225=5(1:8,,(4+ 5-5--0*,:5:/,4,= :5+(? /,29,( (?5804(<08:;(22? !,49054,89/5458/09 =58+2,99 3,358?)? *,8,354?%/, +,*58(:04./09 -5225=04.+(? 9:(:;,(:/,29,( 9,,9:/,8;3);9: 05;9 Lord Mayor’s #5?(25960:(2 =0:/5(12,(<,9(4+ Show**536(4? 04.:/,58+(?58 )8(4*/,9 4 04/09.52+9:(:,*5(*/ ,*,3),8:/,2,>0*5.8( 6/,8 Dr Johnson09 (685*,990545-)(4+9 *533,358(:,+04(4 +,*58(:,+-25(:9(4+ Lord Mayor’s chain of office (44;(29,8<0*,/,2+(: 3020:(8?+,:(*/3,4:9 ',9:3049:,8)),? 3(1,90:9=(?:/85;./ :/,0:?-853;02+/(226(9: :/,(490545;9,:5:/, INFORMAL CEREMONIES (= 5;8:9(4+)(*1(.(04 (254.:/,3)(413,4: (*/;2?90>.;02+93,4 (4?5-:/,*,8,3540,9 :/(::(1,62(*,04:/,0:?(8, -853:/,536(4?5- '(:,83,4*536,:,-58:/, 2041,+:5:/,(*:0<0:0,95-:/, 680@,04Doggett’s Coat and 0<,8? 536(40,9 %/,9,04*2;+,:/,'589/06-;2 Badge Race4(;:;34:/, Pearly Kings and Queens 536(40,95-Vintners’ and Distillers’(44;(2*,2,)8(:054 8,68,9,4:(:0<,95-,(9: 5-:/,=04,/(8<,9:(4+:/, 54+549:8(+,893,,: $:(:054,89 Cakes and Ale (:$:(8:0404:/, Sermon/,2+04$:!(;29 0,2+94(8*/ (1,9(4+(2,(8,685<0+,+ */02+8,4(8,.0<,4 (**58+04.:5:/,=0225-( 58(4.,9(4+2,3549 :/*,4:;8?9:(:054,8 (::/,Oranges and CEREMONIES IN THE CITY

Lemons service

NAME-DAY CEREMONIES <,8? (?King Henry VI =/5=(93;8+,8,+04:/, %5=,85-54+5404 09 9:0228,3,3),8,+)?:/, 3,3),895-/09:=5-(35;9 -5;4+(:0549 :54 522,.,(4+ 04.9 522,., (3)80+.,

(:$:2,3,4: (4,9 */;8*/4,)8;(8? *25=49:(1,6(8:04 (9,8<0*,-58Joseph Grimaldi A (::/,52? %8040:? /;8*/04 (29:54 Pearly Queen

Beating the Retreat Horse Guards p80, date arranged during first two weeks of June. Cakes and Ale Sermon St Paul’s pp148–51, Ash Wed. Ceremony of the Keys Tower of London pp154–7, 9:30pm daily. Tickets from the Tower, but book well in advance. Changing of the Guard Buckingham Palace pp94–5, Apr–Jul: 11:30am daily; Aug–Mar: alternate days. Horse Guards, Whitehall p80, 11am Mon–Sat, 10am Sun. For details call the London Tourist Board Information Line on 0906 866 3344. Doggett’s Coat and Badge Race From London Bridge to Cadogan Pier, Chelsea pp192–7, July. Dr Johnson Memorial Westminster Abbey pp76–9, 18 Dec. Joseph Grimaldi Memorial Holy Trinity Church, Dalston E8, 7 Feb. King Henry VI Memorial Wakefield Tower, Tower of London pp154–7, 21 May. Lord Mayor’s Show The City pp143–53, second Sat Nov. Navy Day Trafalgar Sq p102, 21 Oct. Oak Apple Day Royal Hospital p197, Thu after 29 May. Oranges and Lemons Service St Clement Danes p138, March. Pearly Kings and Queens Harvest Festival St Martin-in-the-Fields p102, autumn. Remembrance Sunday Cenotaph p74, Sun nearest 11 Nov. Royal Salutes Hyde Park p211, royal anniversaries and other state occasions. Silent Change Guildhall p159, second Fri Nov. State Opening of Parliament Houses of Parliament pp72–3, Oct–Nov. Procession from Buckingham Palace to Westminster. Trooping the Colour Horse Guards p80, 2nd Sat Jun (rehearsals on previous two Sats). Tickets from Household Division, Horse Guards. Vintners’ and Distillers’ Wine Harvest St Olave’s Church, Hart St EC3, second Tue Oct.

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SPRING +(:($7+(5'85,1*7+(635,1* 0217+60$<%(5$:$1'$1 80%5(//$,6$1(&(66$5< 35(&$87,2158,'6&(/(%5$7( 7+(35,1*48,12;,1$68% '8('&(5(021<212:(5 ,//$,17(56&203(7(72+$9( 7+(,5:25.6$&&(37('%<7+( 2<$/ &$'(0<227%$//(56 &/26(7+(,56($621,1$<:,7+ 7+( 83,1$/:+,/( &5,&.(7(56'217+(,56:($7(56 72%(*,17+(,56;)25'$1' $0%5,'*( 1,9(56,7,(652: 7+(,5$118$/%2$75$&($/21* 7+(+$0(6$1'$5$7+21 5811(563281'7+(675((76 MARCH

Runners in the London Marathon passing Tower Bridge

Kite flying /$&.+($7+) Easter Kite Festival

APRIL

$0367($'($7+)

London Harness Horse Parade

Chelsea Antiques Fair '

Easter procession and hymns

.$%+()+(/6($/' 2:1$//,1*6'"

+,*('"(670,167(5 %%(< ))11(2) 21'2160267(92&$7,9( 5(/,*,286&(/(%5$7,216

*%0)* $77(56($$5. )

Ideal Home Exhibition

+('.$$5/62857 "$5:,&.'" 7,6$/21* (67$%/,6+('6+2::,7+7+( /$7(67,1'20(67,&*$'*(75< $1'67$7(2)7+($577(&+12/2*< Oranges and Lemons Service 7/(0(17$1(6)

(59,&()256&+22/&+,/'5(1 ($&+&+,/',6*,9(1$125$1*( $1'$/(021

International Model Railway Exhibition +,*.$'

2<$/257,&8/785$/$// !,1&(174")5($/ ,17(5(6772(9(5<21(

Queen’s Birthday gun salutes

)*<'($5.2:(5 2)21'21) London Marathon -'#' )*(*0&+$03,216$1' 129,&(6581)5205((1:,&+ 72"(670,167(5)

MAY First and last Mon$5(38%/,&

+2/,'$<6

Oxford v Cambridge boat race , (*+,*(*

FA Cup Final)227%$//6($6216

+,*871(<72257/$.( )

Henry VI Memorial )

Beating the Bounds

Spring Equinox celebration

+'+#('07+528*+287 7+(,7<#281*%2<6)5207+( ,7<3$5,6+%($7%8,/',1*67+$7 0$5.7+(3$5,6+%281'$5,(6 Oak Apple Day$77+(2<$/ 263,7$/+(/6($)

Funfairs %,0)-%#"(% .$'9$5,286&200216 Chelsea Flower Show %, 02<$/263,7$/+(/6($ Beating the Retreat )

&/,0$; )

*2:(5,// ,6725,&3$*$1&(5(021<:,7+ 02'(51'$<'58,'6 EASTER Good Fri$1')2//2:,1*

21$5(38%/,&+2/,'$<6 Easter parades $77(56($

$5. )

A London park in the spring

#

AVERAGE DAILY HOURS OF SUNSHINE Sunshine Chart

Hours 10 8 6 4 2 0 Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr May Jun

Jul

Aug Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

('('+%('!+,' "(,,+,0+ %% ,.'0' -!-+,',""#!", ( +-&&*0%#!", "(-*+'/,' *(& .%% (* &,( ,*)&0,#&#+ &-"+"(*,*#'," .#',*-,('(' '+,-''#'!#'," .#',*+-'+"#' 21'2166+236)

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

Doggett’s Coat and Badge Race )

Hampton Court Flower Show

$037212857$/$&( ))

1 Capital Radio Jazz Festival

2<$/(67,9$/$//) Henry Wood Promenade Concerts %,-%1)2<$/

/%(57$//) Royal Academy Summer Exhibition -'1-!

,&&$',//< ) AUGUST Last Monday,1 8*867,6

$38%/,&+2/,'$< Revellers at Notting Hill Carnival

Open-air theatre season

,"*(-!"(-,,"+-&&* (*(176$5.$1'2//$1' $5.+$.(63($5(+$:$1' 27+(562))(57+(3(5)(&7 23 JUNE 325781,7<)25$3,&1,&) Open-air concerts(1:22' Coronation Day gun salutes $0367($'($7+5<67$/ -'<'($5.$1'2:(5 $/$&($5%/(,//7$0(66 2)21'21) $5. ) International Ceramics Fair Summer festivals %,-' $5.$1(27(/$5.$1(" 3,7$/),(/'6$1'5,0526(,// Fine Art and Antiques fair 217$&7!,6,721'21) /<03,$/<03,$"$<" 256((7+(/,67,1*60$*$=,1(6 Trooping the Colour256( ) )257,0(6$1'9(18(6 8$5'6$5$'() 2)$//7+(6((9(176$1'6(( Duke of Edinburgh’s Birthday 8/<%(/2: City of London Festival %, gun salutes -'<'( $5.$1'2:(52)21'21 -'1&#-%09$5,286,7< ) 9(18(6 ) 576$1' Covent Garden Flower 086,&)(67,9$/:,7+&21&(576 Festival &#-'29(17 7$.,1*3/$&(,1620(2) $5'(1")) 1 21'2160267%($87,)8/ /25$/,167$//$7,216675((7 +,6725,&&+85&+(6 3(5)250(56$1')$6+,216+2:6 JULY 5(((175<72$// Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Championships ,.(.$+#'

%,-' ) Cricket test match25'6 5,&.(75281')

Summer festivals5((1:,&+ $1'2&./$1'6(*(176 $5.,&+021'$1'2+2 Sales5,&(5('8&7,216$&5266

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Regimental band, St James’s Park

% #

&

AVERAGE MONTHLY RAINFALL Inches

MM 64

2.5 2

48

1.5 32 1 16 0.5 0 Jan

Feb Mar

Apr May Jun

Jul

Aug Sep

Oct Nov Dec

0

Rainfall Chart

)()(,/ +" ')(-#&2+$(!&& + '$(,'.#-# ,' -#+)."#).--# 2 +.&2(.".,- -# *$-&,0+' ,- ')(-#,+ &,)-0) )!$-,0 -- ,-$($, & ,,&$% &2$(,*+$(" .-/$,$-)+,,#).& *+ *+ !)+,#)0 + -(2-$' )!2 +

AUTUMN %0-:-1;);-6;-7.8=:87;- )*7=<76,7616)=<=56%0- *=14,=8<7<0-*=;1-;< ;078816/;-);76<0-;<):<7. <0-)+),-51+A-):)6,<0- 6-?8):41)5-6<):A;-;;176 78-6-,*A<0-"=--6162-+< ;75-41.-16<7<0-+74,-: 576<0;%0-+:1+3-<;-);76 -6,;1651,$-8<-5*-:?014- .77,47>-:;5)A*-16<-:-;<-, 16<0-;8-+<)+=4):,1;84)A;7. .:-;0.1;0<0)<):-4)1,7=<16 <0->-;<:A7.$<):A)<144 +-4-*:)<16/<0-0):>-;<7.<01; 1;4)6,6)<176 -57:1-;7.)57:-<=:*= 4-6<78-616/7.!):41)5-6< ):-:->1>-,76 7>-5*-: 76.1:-;)6,.1:-?7:3;)++:7;; <0-+7=6<:A+755-57:)<-<0- .)14-,+76;81:)+A4-,*A=A )?3-;16 <7*47?=8 <0-!)4)+-7.'-;<516;<-: .-?,)A;4)<-:<0-,-),7. )6A+76.41+<.:75'7:4,'): 76?):,;):-0767=:-,)<) +-:-576A0-4,16'01<-0)44

Pearly Kings gathering for the harvest festival at St Martin-in-the-Fields

SEPTEMBER

NOVEMBER

Mayor Thames Festival

State Opening of Parliament * Guy Fawkes Nigh< )/

'$ *6<-:<)165-6<*A )6,76<0-:1>-:*-
'$ *#7A)44*-:<)44 * #7=;16/+4);;1+)401<; Spitalfields Show '$ * 4,$81<)4.1-4,;):3-<* OCTOBER Pearly Harvest Festival !$+,.($<):<1616<0-1-4,;

1;<16/;5)/)B16-;/1>-,-<)14; 7..1:-?7:3,1;84)A;* Remembrance Day Service * Silent Change *

Lord Mayor’s Show *

London to Brighton>-<-:)6

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Punch and Judy Festival

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'-5*4-A:-6)* London-to-Brighton veteran car run

Vintners’ and Distillers’ Wine Harvest *

Navy Day *

Autumn colours in a London park

% #

& % ( #

AVERAGE MONTHLY TEMPERATURE Temperature Chart

F°

C° 25

80

20

70

15

60

10

50

5

40

0

32 Jan

Feb Mar

Apr May Jun

Jul

Aug Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

# #+-,#)0,-# / +" '$($'.' ('1$'.' - '* +-.+ ,!)+ # ')(-#)*- '* + -.+ ,/ +"$("

4 4 &$ )()(, + *.--$)(!)+2 + +).(#$&&$( ,, &-#)."#)/ ' + -#+)."#-) +.+2 ( $2

Carol services & $(".*-)

#+$,-',%:).)4/):$9=):- * $
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Christmas Day swim

$-:8-6<16-A,-!):3* New Year’s Eve celebrations

%:).)4/):$9=):-$< !)=4; JANUARY Sales * New Year’s Day Parade

;<):<;)
'$(3 +&2 >):17=; >-6=-; Charles I Commemoration

DECEMBER Oxford v Cambridge rugby union match%?1+3-60)5

*

International Showjumping Championships &-

4A581)9=-;<:1)6+758- <1<176.-)<=:16/<0-+:-)57. :1,-:;.:75):7=6,<0-?7:4, CHRISTMAS, NEW YEAR 25–26 Dec)6,1 Jan):-

8=*41+074;%0-:-1;67<:)16 ;-:>1+-760:1;<5);)A

&,-.(8:7+-;;176.:75$< )5-;;!)4)+-* <7 )69=-<16/7=;-* Chinese New Year &(3'$ 016)<7?6 * )6,$707* FEBRUARY Queen’s Accession gun salutes

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PUBLIC HOLIDAYS New Year’s Day )6 Good Friday; Easter Monday; May Day.1:;< 76,)A16)AWhit Monday 4);<76,)A16 )A August Bank Holiday4);<76,)A16 =/=;< Christmas D

-+-5*-: Christmas illuminations in Trafalgar Square

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CRUISE OPERATORS Bateaux London Tel 020-7695 1800. www.bateauxlondon.com

Campion Launches Tel 020-8305 0300.

Catamaran Cruisers Tel 020-7987 1185. www.catamarancruisers.co.uk

City Cruises

(&)%,"' ,!/(*%+%* +,&(.%%(( **"*)*(,,+('('*(&*"+"' /,*%.%+! &++".+,% ,+!.'*"+(.* ,"&+ -,"-%%0)*+*.)-+ +-!+,!*(+),( !",0"'))"' !- ,!*".*+'$+

Tel 020-7740 0400. www.citycruises.com

Crown River Cruises Tel 020-7936 2033. www.crownriver.com

Thames Clippers Tel 0870-781 5049. www.thamesclippers.com

Thames Executive Charters Tel 01342-322440 www.thamesexecutivecharters.com

Thames River Services 3PUIFSIJUIF 5VOOFM (ILTON $OCKLANDS .ELSON$OCK 0IER

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Tel 020-7930 4097. www.westminsterpier.co.uk

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Turks Launches Tel 020-8546 2434. www.turks.co.uk

Westminster Passenger Service Association (Upriver) Ltd Tel 020-7930 2062 or 020-7930 4721. www.wpsa.co.uk

GREENWICH +))

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Operators: Catamaran Cruisers, City Cruises, Thames River Services. Piers: Westminster, Waterloo, Embankment, Bankside, Tower. Duration: 1 hr (Westminster).

Operator: WPSA (upriver only). Piers: Westminster. Duration: 1.5 hrs (Westminster). HAMPTON COURT +

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Operator: Thames River Services. Piers: Westminster, Greenwich. Duration: 30 min (Greenwich).

Piers: Kew, all Richmond and Kingston piers. Duration: 2 hrs (Kew).

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LONDON AREA BY AREA

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Westminster Hall Lords’ Chamber Commons’ Chamber

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST London SW1. Map 13 C5. Tel 020-7219 3000; 0870-906 3773 to book summer tour. Westminster. 3, 11, 12, 24, 53, 77a, 88, 109, 159, 184, 511. Victoria. Westminster Pier. Commons Visitors’ Galleries open 2.30–10.30pm Mon; 11.30am–7.30pm Tue, Wed; 11.30am–6.30pm Thu; 9.30am–3pm sitting Fri. Question time first hour of session; UK residents may apply in advance to local MP, otherwise you need to queue. Closed Easter, May public hol, Whitsun Recess (late May), mid-Jul–early Sep, 3 weeks over Christmas, some other public hols (check first). Lords Visitors’ Galleries open 2.30–10pm Mon– Wed; 11am– 7.30pm Thu (closed 1.30–3pm) and some Fri. Closed (see Commons). see website. www.parliament.uk

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St Stephen’s entrance

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! See pp72–3.

Bridge St SW1. Map 13 C5. Westminster. Not open to the public.

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#5(+6+*'4:/)/-+4/9 45::.+4'3+5,:.+=582* ,'35;9,5;8,')+*)25)1/4 :.+ 3 ,::5=+8:.': 8/9+9'(5<+:.+5;9+95, '82/'3+4:(;:5,:.+ See pp76–9. 8+954'4: :544+(+22 54=./).:.+.5;89'8+ 9:8;)1:='94'3+* ',:+8"/8+40'3/4'22 ./+,533/99/54+85, Broad Sanctuary SW1. Map 13 B5. %5819=.+4:.+(+22 Westminster. Buildings not ='9.;4-/4 open to the public. '9:':%./:+ ).'6+2/:='9:.+ 9+)54*-/'4:(+22 3'*+,58:.+)25)1 :.+,/89:.'
3 ,: 254-3'*+/4.5225=)566+8 ,582/-.:4+99:.'91+6:+>'): :/3+,58:.+4':/54358+58 2+99)54:/4;5;92?9/4)+/:='9 Entrance to the Abbey and cloisters ,/89:9+:/435:/54/4'? from Dean’s Yard #.+*++6)./3+9.'<+ (+)53+'9?3(525,8/:'/4 4'8).4+'8:.+=+9:*558 '225<+8:.+=582*'4*'8+ (85'*)'9:*'/2?548'*/5 5,:.+((+?2+'*9/4:5:./9 9+)2;*+*-8'99?97;'8+ 9;885;4*+*(?'0;3(2+5, (;/2*/4-9,8533'4?*/,,+8+4: 6+8/5*93+*/+<'2.5;9+54 Abingdon St SW1. Map 13 B5. :.++'9:9/*+.'9'*/9:/4):/<+ Tel 020-7222 2219. Westminster. *583+8=/4*5='4*(')1954 Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm; :5/::2++'49&'8*=.+8+ Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm daily. Closed :.+354192/
! ! " Parliament Sq SW1. Map 13 B5. Tel 020-7654 4840. Westminster. Open 9.30am–3.45pm Mon–Fri, 9.30am–1.45pm Sat, 2–5pm Sun. 11am Sun.

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Statue of Charles I overlooking St Margaret’s doorway

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! " SW1. Map 13 B5. Westminster.

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! Whitehall SW1. Map 13 B4. Westminster.

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Clive Steps, King Charles St SW1. Map 13 B5. Tel 020-7930 6961. Westminster. Open 9.30am–6pm daily (last adm:5pm). Closed 24–26 Dec. Adm charge. www.iwm.org.uk

Telephones in the Map Room of the Cabinet War Rooms

The Cenotaph

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HISTORICAL PLAN OF THE ABBEY +(),456$%%(;&+74&+9$5(56$%.,5+('$5($4.;$56+(6+ &(0674;9+(067056$0%417*+6$*4172 1)(0(',&6,0(/10-5616+($4($ +( 24(5(065647&674('$6(5.$4*(.;)41/6+( 6+&(0674;6+(0(94(0&+,0).7(0&(' '(5,*09$5%(*70,0 $66+(%(+(561) (04;(&$75(1),65 70,37(41.($56+(41;$. &1410$6,10&+74&+6+($%%(; 5748,8('(04;!5/,' 6+&(0674; 105.$7*+6104,6$,05 /10$56,&%7,.',0*5 KEY

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Dean’s Yard entrance

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Whitehall SW1. Map 13 B4. Tel 0203166 6152. Charing Cross, Embankment, Westminster. Open 10am– 5pm Mon–Sat (last adm 4.30pm). Closed Sun, public hols, 24 Dec–1 Jan; for functions (phone first). Adm charge. www.hrp.org.uk

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! Mounted sentries stationed outside Horse Guards Parade

! Whitehall SW1. Map 13 B4. Tel 0906201 5151. Westminster, Charing Cross, Embankment. Open 8am–6pm daily. Changing the Guard 11.30am Mon–Sat, 10am Sun. Dismounting Ceremony 4pm daily. Times for both are subject to change (phone for details). Trooping the Colour see Ceremonial London pp52–5.

Whitehall SW1. Map 13 B3. Tel 0870-060 6632. Charing Cross. Open for performances only. See Entertainment pp344–5.

Detail of a Whitehall Theatre box

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SW1. Map 13 A5. St James’s Park.

Panels from the Rubens ceiling, Banqueting House

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" 23 Caxton St SW1. Map 13 A5. Tel 020- 7222 2877. St James’s Park. Open 10am–5.30pm Mon–Wed, Fri, 10am–7pm Thu.

! !! Birdcage Walk SW1. Map 13 A5. Tel 020-7414 3428. St James’s Park. Open 10am–4pm daily (last adm: 3.30pm). Closed Christmas, ceremonies. Adm charge (free for under-16s). www.armymuseums.org.uk

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55 Broadway SW1. Map 13 A5. St James’s Park.

% & $

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! Statue of a Blewcoat pupil above the Caxton Street entrance

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Smith Sq SW1. Map 21 B1. Tel 0207222 1061. Westminster. Box office open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri. Not open to public except for concerts. phone first. www.sjss.org.uk

Baroque interior of St John’s, Smith Square

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Epstein sculpture outside St James’s Park Station

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Loan exhibitions

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Main floor

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Lower floor

Manton St entrance

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

THE ART OF GOOD FOOD -3(%+.6%1&+..1!3%1)3!)- ".!232!#!&9!-$!-%2/1%22. "!1!26%++!2!1%23!41!-3 %+%"1!3%$,41!+2"8%7 ()23+%1!$.1-3(%6!++2.& 3(%1%23!41!-33%++)-'3(%3!+% .&3(%,83()#!+)-(!")3!-32.& /)#41)!-!!-$3(%)1%7/%$)3).- )-2%!1#(.&1!1%&..$2(% %73%-2)5%6)-%+)23(!26.- !6!1$2!-$)2*-.6-&.1)32&!)1 /1)#)-'/%-&.1+4-#(.-+8

Millbank SW1. Map 21 B2. Tel 020-7887 8888. 0207887 8008. Pimlico. C10, 36, 87, 88, 159, 185, 406, 507. Victoria, Vauxhall. Open 10am–5.50pm daily. Closed 24–26 Dec. Adm charge for special exhibitions only. Atterbury St.

Lectures, film presentations, exhibitions, children’s activities. www.tate.org.uk

Entrance to Clore Galleries

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STAR PAINTINGS

Peace – Burial at Sea by Turner

Ophelia by John Millais

Three Studies for Figures at the Base of a Crucifixion by Bacon

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Burlington House, Piccadilly W1. Map 12 F3. Tel 020-7300 8000. Piccadilly Circus, Green Park. Open 10am–6pm Sat–Thu, 10am–10pm Fri. Closed 24–25 Dec. Adm charge. by appt. www.royalacademy.org.uk

Michelangelo’s Madonnna and Child

%0-+7=:1>16/ Albany Court Yard, Piccadilly W1. 5)6;176;.:75<0--):4A <0 Map 12 F3. Green Park, +-6<=:A1;7.<-6+:)55-, Piccadilly Circus. Closed to the public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yron lived in The %0--@+-8<176)48-: Albany 5)6-6<+744-+<17667<)4476 ,1;84)A16+4=,-;76-?7:3 *A-)+0+=::-6<)6,.7:5-: +),-51+1)6<0-6-?4A :-;<7:-,),-2;31 #775;,1;84)A<0- 01/041/0<;%0-:-1;) /77,;07876<0-.1:;< .477:;-4416/+):,; )6,7<0-:1<-5;<0)< ):-,-;1/6-,*A +),-5A5-5*-:; .7:<0-#

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Piccadilly W1. Map 12 F3. Green Park, Piccadilly Circus. See Shops and Markets p328.

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Piccadilly W1. Map 12 F3. Tel 0207493 8181. Green Park. Open to non-residents for tea or restaurant (book ahead). (See p287.) www.theritzlondon.com

-;):#1-D:11:<=)44A :-<1:-,*A<0-<15-<01;07<-4 ?);*=14<)6,6)5-,).<-: 01516 %0-+74766),-, .:76<)4);8-+<7.<0-1587;16/ +0G<-)=;-:A/:)6,-;<)6,57;< .);0176)*4-07<-4;?-:-<7*-

The exquisite Palm Room of Spencer House

.7=6,):7=6,<0-<=:67.<0- +-6<=:A<5)16<)16;1<; ,?):,1)6)1:7.78=4-6+-)6, 1;)878=4):;<78)576/ <07;-?07):-;=1<)*4A,:-;;-, 672-)6;7:<:)16-:;2)+3-< )6,<1-.7:5-6.7:).<-:6776 <-)?1<0,)14A;-:>16/;16<0- !)457=:<)< )5 )6, 850)58)/6- <-)1;;-:>-,)<85

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27 St James’s Pl SW1. Map 12 F4. Tel 020-7499 8620. Green Park. Open 10.30am–5.45pm Sun (last adm: 4.45pm). Garden open one Sunday in June 2pm–5pm. Closed Jan & Aug. Adm charge. Children not under 10. compulsory. www.spencerhouse.co.uk St James’s Tudor gatehouse

%01;!)44),1)68)4)+-*=14<16 .7:<0-.1:;<):4$8-6+-: )6)6+-;<7:7.<0-4)<-!:16+-;; 7.')4-;0);*--6+7584-<-4A :-;<7:-,<71<; <0+-6<=:A ;84-6,7=:<0)63;<7)6C

Afternoon tea served in the opulent Palm Court of the Ritz

Pall Mall SW1. Map 12 F4. Green Park. Not open to the public.

=14<*A-6:A&16<0-4)<- ;76<0-;1<-7.).7:5-: 4-8-:07;81<)417+)<1>- %=,7:4)6,5):3;-016,1< <0-8)4)+-*=14,16/;):- 67?7++=81-,*A8:1>14-/-, :7?6;-:>)6<;

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78@18><.<=1.7<=2=>=.8/ 2;.,=8;<*,2702=87=1. 8=1.;<2-.8/(*=.;588"5*,. 2<=1.=1.7*.>6 8 -.<207.-=1;..B.*;<5*=.;+B .,26><>;=87*7-5870=1. 98@.;18><.8/=1.;2=2<1 .<=*+52<16.7= .A=-88;*;. =@8,5>+<+B$2;1*;5.<*;;B *;,12=.,=8/=1.8><.<8/ "*;52*6.7= =1. %;*?.55.;<2<*= 8 *7- =1.#./8;6*= 8 %1. ,5>+<<=*=.5B27=.;28;<*;.@.55 9;.<.;?.-+>=875B6.6+.;< *7-=1.2;0>.<=<*;.*-62==.- Royal Opera Arcade

! " SW1. Map 13 A3. Piccadilly Circus.

Green Park,

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# SW1. Map 13 A3.

Piccadilly Circus.

87-87<.78@,*55.-.; *3.<=B<%1.*=;.=+.*==1. >;5270=87;,*-. +B*B.*;8;<8%1.=;*-2=287 *5<189<=1*=><.-=8+. +*<.-1.;.1*?.;.,.7=5B

68?.-87*;58@<<.55270 <188=270*7-/2<1270.:>29 6.7=*7-=1./*68><>7=.;< 0;..7(.55270=87+88=<*;. 78@7.*;+B*= 8"*55*55

SW1. Map 13 A4. Charing Cross, Green Park, Piccadilly Circus.

!!"! !# ! The Mall SW1. Map 13 B3. Tel 0207930 3647. Charing Cross, Piccadilly Circus. Open noon–10.30pm Sun, noon–11pm Mon, noon–1am Tue–Sat. (Exhibition space closes 7.30pm, bookshop 9pm.) Closed 24–26, 31 Dec, 1 Jan, public hols. Adm charge. (cinema and lower gallery) phone first. Concerts, theatre, dance, lectures, films, exhibitions. See Entertainment pp350–51. www.ica.org.uk

%1.7<=2=>=.@*< .<=*+52<1.-27 27*7.//8;= =88//.;;2=2<1*;=2<=<<86.8/ =1./*,252=2.<@12,1@.;. *?*25*+5.=8*;=2<=<*=%1. ><.>68/8-.;7;=27 .@ )8;4!;2027*55B878?.; $=;..=2=1*<+..7<2=>*=.-27 The Duke of Wellington (1842): a 817 *<1<5*<<2,*5*;5=87 frequent visitor to Pall Mall 8><.%.;;*,. <27,. (2=12=<.7=;*7,.87%1. %12<-2072/2.-<=;..=2<7*6.- *55=12<.A=.7<2?.@*;;.7 /;86=1.0*6.8/9*55.6*255. ,87=*27<*,27.6**>-2=8;2>6 *,;8<<[email protected],;8:>.=*7- +884<189*;=0*55.;B+*;*7- 085/@12,1@*<95*B.-1.;. ;.<=*>;*7==*5<88//.;<95*B< 27=1..*;5B =1,.7=>;B8; ,87,.;=<*7-5.,=>;.< 87 68;.=1*7 B.*;<"*55*55 6.6+.;<9*B*,1*;0. 1*<+..7*==1.1.*;=8/ 87-87<,5>+5*7-.;. .A,5><2?.0.7=5.6.7<,5>+< @.;./8;6.-=89;8?2-. 6.6+.;<@2=1*;./>0./;86 =1.2;@86.7/854 %1.,5>+18><.<78@ *68>7==8*=.A=+8848/=1. 68<=/*<1287*+5.*;,12=.,=<8/ =1..;*;86=1..*<=.7- 87=1.5./=2<=1.,85877*-.- .7=;*7,.=8 8 *<1< &72=.-$.;?2,.<5>+ %12<@*<=1./*?8>;2=.,5>+8/ Institute of Contemporary Arts, Carlton House Terrace =1.>4.8/(.55270=87*7-

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!

/272<1.-27 =@*< <>+<=*7=2*55B.75*;0.-27=1. SW1. Map 13 A4. Tel 020-7930 =1,.7=>;B*7-><.-+B 1793. St James’s Park. Open 6.6+.;<8/=1.#8B*5*625B dawn to dusk daily. Open daily. ;86 >7=251.+.,*6. Concerts twice daily on summer -@*;-'27 2=@*<=1. weekends in good weather. Bird 186.8/=1.";27,.*7- collection. www.royalparks.org.uk ";27,.<<8/(*5.<*7-=1. <8,2*5,.7=;.8/87-877 7<>66.;8//2,.@8;4.;< ;= 8>?.*>6.68;2*527=1. <>7+*=1.[email protected]=1.-*CC5270 *;5+8;8>01#8*-@*558/=1. /58@.;+.-<8/=12<=1. 18><.,866.68;*=.< ,*92=*5<68<=8;7*6.7=*59*;4 -@*;-<:>..75.A*7-;* 7@27=.;8?.;,8*=.-,2?25 %1.+>25-27078@18><.<=1. <.;?*7=<-2<,><<*//*2;<8/<=*=. 86687@.*5=1$.,;.=*;2*= *<=1.B<=;855+B=1.5*4.*7- .B.2=<->,4<0..<.*7- 9.52,*7<!;2027*55B*6*;<1 =1.9*;4@*<-;*27.-+B.7;B '*7-27,8;98;*=.-27=812< Marlborough Rd SW1. Map 13 A4. 1>7=2700;8>7-<*=.;1*;5.< Tel 020-7930 4832. Green Park. ;.-.<207.-2=/8;9.-.<=;2*7 Open Easter–July: Sun, Saints’ Days. 95.*<>;.<@2=1*7*?2*;B*5870 %12<.A:>2<2=.@8;48/=1. 2=<<8>=1.;7.-0.1.7,. *;,12=.,=720887.<@*<+>25= 2;-,*0.(*54=1.<=;..= @1.;.=1.*?2*;B@*<=2< /8;1*;5.<<;.7,1@2/. <=255*989>5*;95*,.=8=*4. .7;2.==**;2*27 *7- @*<=1./2;<=5*<<2,*5,1>;,1 =1.*2;@2=1*7*99.*5270 ?2.@8/(12=.1*55;88/=89<7 27705*7-=@*<272=2*55B =1.<>66.;=1.;.*;.,87,.;=< 27=.7-.-=8+.9*;=8/$= 87=1.+*7-<=*7-

"

SW1. Map 13 A4. Charing Cross, Green Park, Piccadilly Circus.

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" " Pall Mall SW1. Map 13 A4. Tel 0207747 6491. St James’s Park, Green Park. Open one Sat in Sep only (phone for details). By appointment.

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Early summer in St James’s Park

Queen’s Chapel

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The State Dining Room09 =/,8,3,(29:/(:(8,2,99-583(2 :/(49:(:,)(47;,:9(8,/,2+

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Blue Drawing Room

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Court post office

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The White Drawing Room09

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The garden09(/(<,4-58=02+ 20-,(4+095<,82551,+)?359: 5-:/,2(<09/2?+,*58(:,+9:(:, 85539(::/,)(*15-:/,6(2(*,

SW1. Map 12 F5. Tel 020-7766 7300. St James’s Park, Victoria. 2B, 11, 16, 24, 25, 36, 38, 52, 73, 135, C1. Victoria. State rooms open Aug–Sep: 9.45am– 6pm daily. Adm charge. Changing of the Guard: Apr–Jul: 11.30am daily; Aug–Mar: alternate days. Tel 0906 866 3344 (Visit London). Tickets in advance from www.royalcollection.org.uk

The Throne Room09 022;304(:,+)?9,<,4 3(.40-0*,4:*/(4+,20,89

The Green Drawing Room

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The Royal Standard-20,9

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WHO LIVES IN BUCKINGHAM PALACE? $/,6(2(*,09:/,54+548,90+,4*,5-:/,!;,,4(4+/,8 /;9)(4+:/,;1,5-+04);8./ 804*,+=(8+(295/(9 (4(6(8:3,4:/,8, (9+5 804*,99 44,(4+:/, ;1,5-'581 )5;: +53,9:0*9:(-- /(<,8553904:/, 6(2(*,$/,8,(8, 358,9:(--/53,9 90:;(:,+04:/,"5?(2 ,=9 '$

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Stable Yard SW1. Map 12 F4. Tel 020-7766 7303. Green Park, St James’s Park. Open 1 Aug–30 Sept: 9am–4.30pm (book ahead). mandatory. www.royal.collection.org.uk

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Stable Yard SW1. Map 12 F4. Green Park, St James’s Park. Not open to the public.

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" ! Buckingham Palace Rd SW1. Map 12 E5. Tel 020-7766 7302. St James’s Park, Victoria. Open Mar– Oct: 11am–4.15pm daily. Subject to closure at short notice (phone first). Adm charge. www.royal.collection.org.uk

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Fabergé egg, Queen’s Gallery

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See pp94–5.

" Buckingham Palace Rd SW1. Map 12 F5. Tel 020-7766 7301. St James’s Park, Victoria. Open 10am– 5.30pm daily (last adm: 4.30pm). Closed 25 &26 Dec. Adm charge.

www.royal.collection.org.uk

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The Victoria Monument outside Buckingham Palace

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SW1. Map 12 D4. Tel 020-7930 2726. Hyde Park Corner. Open Mar–Oct: 10am–5pm Wed–Sun & bank hols; Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Wed–Sun. Closed 24–26 Dec, 1 Jan. Adm charge. www.english-heritage.org.uk

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Interior of Apsley House

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W1. Map 12 E4. Green Park.

Wellington Arch

" Hyde Park Corner W1. Map 12 D4. Tel 020-7499 5676. Hyde Park Corner. Open Mar–Oct: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun & bank hols; Nov–Mar:10am– 4pm Tue–Sun & bank hols. Closed 24–26 Dec, 1 Jan, Good Fri, May Day. pre-booked groups only. www.english-heritage.org.uk

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" The Royal Institution, 21 Albemarle St W1. Map 12 F3. Tel 020-7409 2992. Green Park. Open 10am–5.30pm Mon–Fri. Closed 24 Dec–3 Jan. Adm charge. phone first. Lectures. www.rigb.org

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SW1. Map 12 E4. Tel 020-7930 1793. Green Park, Hyde Park Corner. Open 5am–midnight daily. www.royalparks.org.uk

6+-8):<7.-6:A&; 0=6<16//:7=6,1
Michael Faraday

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" The Mall SW1. Map 13 B3. Charing Cross.

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Filming Howard’s End at Admiralty Arch

" See pp104–7.

Trafalgar Sq WC2. Map 13 B3. Tel 020-7766 1100. Charing Cross. Open 8am–6.30pm daily. 8am, 10am, noon, 5pm, 6.30pm Sun (phone for other days). London Brass Rubbing Centre Tel 020-7930 9306. Open 10am–7pm Mon–Wed, 10am–10pm Thu-Sat, noon–7pm Sun (last brass rubbing entry 1 hr before close). Concerts see Entertainment pp348–9. www.smif.org

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" 2 St Martin’s Place WC2. Map 13 B3. Tel 020-7306 0055. Leicester Sq, Charing Cross. Open 10am–6pm Sat–Wed, 10am–9pm Thu–Fri. Closed Good Fri, 24–26 Dec, 1 Jan. Orange St entrance. Lectures. www.npg.org.uk

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William Shakespeare portrait on display in the Ondaatje Wing

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" " Haymarket SW1. Map 13 A3. Tel 020-7930 8890. Piccadilly Circus. Open performances and guided tours (phone to check). www.trh.co.uk

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" ! W1. Map 13 A2. Piccadilly Circus, Leicester Sq.

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WC2. Map 13 B2. Leicester Sq, Piccadilly Circus.

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London’s West End: the façade of the Gielgud Theatre

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